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A  HISTORY  OF 
THE  ADTRONDACKS 

Volume  II 


PAUL    SMITH.    SR. 


A  HISTORY  OF 
THE  ADIRONDACKS 


BY 

ALFRED  L.  DONALDSON 


llludtrated 


Volume  II 


NEW  YORK 

THE  CENTURY  CO. 

1921 


Copyright,  1921,  by 
The  Century  Co. 


MAY  27  1921 


'^/o  ^^  yia 


CONTENTS 

XXX  John  Brown  at  North  Elba 3 

XXXI  Adirondack  Lodge 23 

XXXII  Keene  Valley 29 

XXXIII  Old  Mountain  Phelps 53 

XXXIV  Long  Lake (33 

XXXV  Mitchel  Sabattis 81 

XXXVI    Raquette  Lake — Blue  Mountain  Lake 88 

XXXVII    Alvah  Dunning 105 

XXXVIII     "Ned  Buntline" "  US 

XXXIX    Old  Military  Roads 123 

XL    Railroads 131 

XLI     Santa  Clara  and  Brandon  in  the  Lime-light   ....  142 

XLII    Lumbering 150 

XLIII    The  Adirondack  League  Club 159 

XLIV    Legislative  Control 1(33 

Appendices 
A    Indian  Grant  to  Totten  and  Crossfield  .    .     .     .257 
B    Historical   Notes   of  the   Settlement   on   No.  4, 

Brown's  Tract 260 

C    The  Adirondacks 271 

D    Editorial  from  "New  York  Times" 280 

E    List  of  Highest  Adirondack  Peaks 283 

F    Heights  of  the  Lesser  Adirondack  Peaks     ,     .     .  283 

G    Trees  of  the  Adirondacks 284 

H    A  List  of  Adirondack  Mammals 286 

I    Weather  Data — Lake  Placid  Club 287 

J    List  of  Adirondack  Birds 291 

K    Some  "Firsts" 296 

Bibliography 299 

Index  355 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Paul  Smith,  Sr Frontispiece 

FACING 
PAGB 

"Cone"  Flander's  House 17 

John  Brown's  Farm 17 

Adirondack  Lod^fe 32 

'^Old  Mountain"  Phelps 56 

Mitchell  Sabottis 81 

Camp  Pine  Knot  on  Raquette  Lake 96 

Alvah   Dunning 113 

Placid  Village  and  Mirror  Lake  in  foreground;  Lake  Placid  and  White- 
face  Mountain  beyond 128 

Clear  Lake,  since  re-named  Heart  Lake 145 

View  west  from  above  Tahawus  (Mt.  Marey) 160 

MAPS  AND  DIAGRAMS 

Organization  of  the  Conservation  Department,  January  1,  1912  .  .  .  248 
Chart  showing  the  organization  of  the  Conservation  Commission,  1915  .  248 
Map  showing  the  Watersheds  of  the  Principal  Rivers  and  Resen'oir  Sites  249 


A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 


A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

CHAPTER  XXX 
JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA 

THE  great  abolitionist  John  Brown  linked  his  name 
with  the  Adirondacks  by  settling  in  the  Town  of  North 
Elba  in  1849,  and  making  it  his  nominal  home  and  head- 
quarters until  the  Harper's  Ferry  raid  and  his  subsequent 
death  in  1859.  His  now  historic  farm  is  about  three  miles 
from  the  village  of  Lake  Placid  to-day,  but  then,  of  course, 
there  was  no  village  nor  promise  of  one.  The  surrounding 
country  was  a  sparsely  settled  wilderness. 

Gerrit  Smith,  the  wealthy  emancipationist  of  New  York, 
had  inherited  vast  tracts  of  land  from  his  father.  Some  of 
these  were  in  Essex  County  and  in  the  Town  of  North  Elba. 
In  1846  Mr.  Smith  had  thrown  open  one  hundred  thousand 
acres  of  his  wild  lands  to  such  colored  people,  fugitive  slaves 
in  particular,  as  would  settle  upon  small  tracts  and  cultivate 
them  into  farms.  Considerable  land  was  taken  up,  but  mostly 
in  other  parts  of  the  State,  for  Gerrit  Smith's  enormous  hold- 
ings lay  in  over  fifty  counties.  The  Adirondack  wilderness, 
for  obvious  reasons,  was  the  least  attractive  and  least  suited 
to  the  negro.  Its  very  wildness  and  remoteness,  however,  of- 
fered a  certain  security  from  the  slave-hunter,  and  so  by  1848 
a  few  families  had  settled  there.  Others  were  later  brought 
to  the  spot  by  means  of  the  underground  railway,  of  which 
North  Elba  became  a  sort  of  side-track  station.  As  a  negro 
colony  it  was  a  failure  and  soon  dwindled  away. 

About  this  time  John  Browm  heard  of  Gerrit  Smith's  scheme 
and  the  incipient  North  Elba  colony,  and  it  appealed  strongly 
to  his  sympathies.  In  1848  he  called  on  Mr.  Smith,  offered 
to  take  up  a  farm  in  the  settlement,  and  help  its  development 


4  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

by  guidance  and  example.  Mr.  Smith  was  quick  to  see  the 
value  of  such  a  man  and  such  services,  and  a  deal  was  soon 
made. 

I  quote  the  following  from  F.  B.  Sanborn's  well-known 
''Life  and  Letters  of  John  Brown,"  a  book  in  which  the 
minutest  details  will  be  found  of  those  outside  events  which 
are  here  briefly  summarized: 

Brown  purchased  a  farm  or  two,  obtained  the  refusal  of  others, 
and  in  1848-49,  he  removed  a  part  of  his  family  from  Springfield 
(Mass.)  to  North  Elba,  where  they  remained  much  of  the  time  between 
1849  and  1864,  and  where  they  lived  when  he  was  attacking  slavery  in 
Kansas,  in  Missouri,  and  in  Virginia.  Besides  the  other  inducements 
which  this  rough  and  bleak  region  offered  him,  he  considered  it  a 
good  refuge  for  his  wife  and  younger  children,  when  he  should  go  on 
his  campaign ;  a  place  where  they  would  not  only  be  safe  and  inde- 
pendent, but  could  live  frugally,  and  both  learn  and  practise  those 
habits  of  thrifty  industry  which  Brown  thought  indispensable  in  the 
training  of  children.  "When  he  went  there  his  youngest  son,  Oliver, 
was  ten  years  old,  and  his  daughters,  Anna  and  Sarah,  were  six  and 
three  years  old.     Ellen,  his  youngest  child,  was  born  afterwards. 

John  Brown  married  twice  and  had  several  children  by 
each  wife — twenty  in  all,  eight  of  whom  died  in  infancy.  The 
older  boys  by  the  first  marriage  remained  in  Ohio  when  their 
father  moved  East,  and  never  lived  on  the  North  Elba  farm. 

The  scenic  beauty  surrounding  his  Adirondack  home  made 
a  deep  appeal  to  Brown.  Lying  in  the  center  of  a  wide 
plateau,  it  commanded  a  panoramic  view  of  distant  moun- 
tains, trenching  the  horizon.  The  mountains  have  always 
been  a  symbol  of  freedom,  and  their  lofty  message  probably 
never  went  straighter  home  than  to  the  lofty  soul  of  this  lone 
man.  Who  shall  gage  the  part  they  played  in  the  meditative 
pauses  that  alternated  with  periods  of  aggressive  action? 
That  it  was  not  negligible  there  is  ample  proof,  and  his  grow- 
ing love  for  the  spot  culminated  in  the  desire  to  be  buried 
there. 

Browm  moved  his  family  and  his  few  household  goods  to 
the  mountains  in  an  ox-drawn  cart.  The  women  and  the  chat- 
tels were  in  the  wagon,  and  the  men  walked  beside  it.  This 
cart,  built  in  Ohio,  was  a  huge  boxlike  affair,  hung  between 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA       5 

two  enormous  wheels  nearly  five  feet  in  diameter,  and  having 
tires  four  inches  wide.  One  of  these  wheels,  in  excellent 
preservation,  may  be  seen  at  the  Lake  Placid  Club. 

Brown  also  brought  to  North  Elba  a  herd  of  very  fine  Devon 
cattle,  which  he  exhibited  at  the  annual  cattle-show  of  Essex 
County.  The  Annual  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Society  for 
1850,  said: 

The  appearance  upon  the  grounds  of  a  number  of  very  choice  and 
beautiful  Devons,  from  the  herd  cff  Mr.  John  Brown,  residing  in  one 
of  our  most  remote  and  secluded  towns,  attracted  great  attention,  and 
added  much  to  the  interest  of  the  fair.  The  interest  and  admiration 
they  excited  have  attracted  public  attention  to  the  subject,  and  have 
already  resulted  in  the  introduction  of  several  choice  animals  into  this 
region. 

The  Browns'  first  home  in  North  Elba  was  a  little  house 
which  they  rented  from  a  man  called  "Cone"  Flanders,  and  in 
1920  it  was  still  standing.  Brown's  eldest  daughter  Ruth,  in 
one  of  her  letters,  writes  of  it  as  follows : 

The  little  house  of  Mr.  Flanders,  which  was  to  be  our  home,  was  the 
second  house  we  came  to  after  crossing  the  mountain  from  Keene. 
It  had  one  good-sized  room  below,  which  answered  pretty  well  for 
kitchen,  dining-room,  and  parlour;  also  a  pantry  and  two  bedrooms; 
and  the  chamber  furnished  space  for  four  beds — so  that  whenever  "a 
stranger  or  wayfaring  man ' '  entered  our  gate,  he  was  not  turned  away.. 

By  the  "chamber"  was  meant  the  unfinished  attic  or  second 
stor>'.  This  small  house  sheltered  a  family  of  nine,  one  or 
more  colored  helpers,  and  occasional  guests.  The  nine  in  the 
family  were  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brown,  four  sons — Owen,  "Watson, 
Salmon,  and  Oliver — and  three  daughters,  Ruth,  Anna,  and 
Sarah.  Ruth  was  the  eldest,  and  soon  married  Henry  Thomp- 
son of  North  Elba.  The  Thompsons  were  among  the  earhest 
settlers  in  the  region.  They  came  from  New  Hampshire. 
They  were  a  large  family,  mostly  boys,  and  owned  among 
them  nearly  one  thousand  acres.  Two  of  the  brothers  were 
later  killed  at  Harper's  Ferry.  The  gap  in  the  Brown  family 
caused  by  Ruth's  marriage  was  soon  filled  by  the  birth  of 
another  daughter  Ellen. 

The  Browns  lived  in  the  Flanders  house  for  two  years,  and 


6  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

this  was  the  only  protracted  stay  that  John  Brown  made  in 
North  Elba.  After  that  he  made  only  short  and  infrequent 
visits  to  his  family  there.  During  these  two  years  he  devoted 
himself  to  the  objects  which  had  drawn  him  to  the  spot,  but 
there  is  no  doubt  that  he  soon  became  comanced  that  Gerrit 
Smith's  dream  of  founding  a  negro  colony  in  the  mountains 
was  pure  chimera.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  of  course,  the  at- 
tempt to  combine  an  escaped  slave  with  a  so-called  Adiron- 
dack farm  was  about  as  promising  of  agricultural  results  as 
would  be  the  placing  of  an  Italian  lizard  on  a  Norwegian  ice- 
berg. 

The  farms  allotted  to  the  negroes  consisted  of  forty  acres 
each,  but  the  natural  gregariousness  of  the  race  tended  to  de- 
feat the  purpose  of  these  individual  holdings.  The  darkies  be- 
gan to  build  their  shanties  in  one  place,  instead  of  on  their 
separate  grants.  Before  long  about  ten  families  had  huddled 
their  houses  together  down  by  the  brook,  not  far  from  where 
the  White  Church  now  stands.  The  shanties  were  square, 
crudely  built  of  logs,  with  flat  roofs,  out  of  which  little  stove- 
pipes protruded  at  varying  angles.  The  last  touch  of  pure 
negroism  was  a  large  but  dilapidated  red  flag  that  floated 
above  the  settlement,  bearing  the  half-humorous,  half-pathetic 
legend  "Timbuctoo" — a  name  that  was  applied  to  the  whole 
vicinity  for  several  years. 

Here  occasionally,  always  over  night,  new  faces  appeared 
and  disappeared — poor  hunted  fugitives  seeking  the  greater 
safety  of  the  Canadian  line.  Those  who  stayed  permanently 
were  roused  to  spasmodic  activity  by  Bro^^^l,  who  induced 
them  to  work  for  him  or  some  of  his  scattered  neighbors.  But, 
unless  directed  by  him,  they  did  nothing  for  themselves  or  for 
their  own  land.  It  is  no  wonder,  therefore,  that  he  became  dis- 
couraged over  this  particular  experiment.  It  closed,  as  far  as 
he  was  concerned,  in  1851. 

In  March  of  that  year  he  moved  his  family  back  to  Akron, 
0.,  and  even  took  the  herd  of  Devon  cattle  with  him.  This 
step  was  not  solely  the  result  of  his  disappointments  at  North 
Elba.  It  was  taken  mainly  on  account  of  protracted  lawsuits 
growing  out  of  his  failure  in  the  wool  business,  which  required 
his  presence  in  different  parts  of  the  country.    It  took  several 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA       7 

years  to  wind  up  the  complications  resulting  from  his  Perkins 
&  BrowTi  partnership,  and  it  was  not  till  the  summer  of  1855 
that  he  was  free  to  carry  out  his  desire  of  taking  his  family 
back  to  North  Elba. 

This  time  they  took  possession  of  a  half-finished  house — the 
present  memorial  building — which  Henry  Thompson,  Ruth 
Brown's  husband,  had  partially  prepared  for  them  on  one  of 
the  farms  Brown  had  contracted  to  buy.  This  house  was  a 
very  primitive  and  crudely  built  affair.  It  contained  but 
four  rooms,  and  only  two  of  them  were  plastered.  It  re- 
mained in  this  unfinished  condition  and  in  obvious  disrepair 
until  after  John  Bro^vn's  death.  It  was  at  best  a  leaky, 
drafty,  cheerless  shelter,  and  would  have  been  considered  un- 
inhabitable by  any  less  inured  to  hardship  and  discomfort. 

John  Brown  remained  only  long  enough  to  see  his  family 
settled,  and  the  house  stocked  with  a  few  provisions.  He 
then  set  out  for  the  Kansas  border.  He  had  freed  himself 
from  the  shackles  of  business  only  to  embroil  himself  more 
completely  in  the  anti-slavery  struggle.  His  life  became 
henceforth  that  of  a  roving  and  restless  agitator  in  a  righteous 
cause.  Of  his  grown  sons  only  Watson,  then  in  his  twentieth 
year,  remained  with  the  women  folk  at  North  Elba.  John  Jr., 
Jason,  Ow«n,  Oliver,  Frederick,  and  Salmon,  with  their 
brother-in-law  Henry  Thompson,  had  gone  out  to  Kansas  and 
settled  near  the  little  hamlet  of  Osawatomie.  Hei^e  the  father 
joined  them  and  soon  began  playing  his  conspicuous  part  in 
the  border  skirmishes  there.  In  May,  1856,  occurred  the  '^Pot- 
tawatomie massacre,"  and  on  the  thirtieth  of  the  following 
August  occurred  the  third  fight  at  Osawatomie,  which  has 
linked  the  name  of  that  little  place  forever  with  John  Brown. 
It  was  not  a  victory,  however.  With  a  handful  of  men  he  shot 
into  a  larger  attacking  force,  and  did  some  damage.  But  after 
that  he  was  forced  to  retreat,  and  the  attackers  burnt  the  vil- 
lage. 

In  April  of  1857  Brown  returned  once  more  to  North  Elba, 
after  an  absence  of  two  years.  On  his  way  he  stopped  at 
Canton,  Conn.,  and  took  from  the  family  plot  there  an  old 
tombstone  belonging  to  his  grandfather.  This  cumbersome 
slab  he  transported  all  the  way  to  his  Adirondack  farm,  and 


8  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

placed  it  where  he  desired  his  own  grave  to  be — near  a  huge 
granite  boulder,  not  far  from  the  house.  On  one  side  of  the 
boulder,  near  the  foot  of  what  became  his  grave,  he  indicated 
its  location  by  cutting  the  letters  *' J.  B."  with  his  own  hands, 
before  starting  on  his  last  adventure. 

On  the  reverse  of  the  ancestral  tombstone  he  inscribed  the 
epitaph  of  his  son  Frederick,  as  ^'murdered  at  Osawatomie 
for  his  adherence  to  the  cause  of  freedom/'  The  face  of 
the  slab  bears  the  following  inscription:  *'In  Memory  of 
Cap*"  John  Brown,  who  died  at  New  York,  Sept.  ye  3,  1776,  in 
the  48th  year  of  his  Age."  Beneath  this  there  later  ap- 
peared: *'John  Brown,  born  May  9,  1800,  was  executed  at 
Charlestown,  Va.,  Dec.  2,  1859";  and  at  the  very  bottom  of 
the  slab:  ** Oliver  Brown,  bom  Mar.  9,  1839,  was  killed  at 
Harper's  Ferry."  Many  years  la«ter,  in  October,  1882,  the 
bones  of  Watson  Brown  found  their  final  resting-place  in  the 
same  spot.  And  later  still,  as  we  shall  see,  the  remains  of 
others  who  fell  at  Harper's  Ferry  were  placed  beside  their 
leader  in  the  North  Elba  burial  plot. 

In  1886  Colonel  Francis  L.  Lee  of  Boston  took  a  skilled 
stone-cutter  with  him  to  the  Bro\vn  farm,  and  had  him  cut  in 
large,  deep  letters  ''John  Brown,  1859,"  on  the  granite  boul- 
der that  billows  near  the  grave.  The  rock  was  so  hard  and 
flinty  that  it  took  several  days  to  complete  this  simple  inscrip- 
tion. 

After  1857  John  Brown's  reappearances  in  North  Elba  were 
few  and  far  between.  Several  times  he  wrote  of  having  the 
inclination  and  the  time  to  come,  but  of  lacking  the  money. 
'\\nien  the  means  were  available,  he  usually  made  the  journey 
by  boat  to  Westport,  and  there  hired  a  horse,  on  which  he  rode 
the  forty  miles  to  his  farm.  Ono  winter,  his  funds  being  very 
low,  he  attempted  the  journey  on  foot,  and  nearly  perished 
from  cold  and  exhaustion  on  the  way.  After  that  he  always 
used  a  horse,  and  kept  him  till  the  return  trip  was  made. 
This  animal  was  something  of  a  curiosity  in  a  settlement  which 
knew  only  the  ox  as  a  beast  of  burden.  The  presence  of  the 
horse,  moreover,  announcing  as  it  did  the  presence  of  John 
BrowTi,  seemed  to  heighten  the  atmosphere  of  the  unusual  that 
surrounded  this  strange  man.     The  older  men  knew  all  about 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA  9 

Mm,  of  course,  but  to  the  younger  generation  he  was  an  object 
of  both  awe  and  mystery.  His  name  was  vaguely  linked  for 
them  with  far-off  deeds  of  bloodthirstiness,  and  his  sudden 
comings  and  goings  added  the  last  touch  of  romance  to  his 
austere  personality. 

When  he  moved  his  family  back  to  North  Elba  in  1855,  he 
appears  to  have  raised  the  necessary  money  by  selling  such 
cattle  as  he  then  owned.  After  that  he  engaged  in  no  money- 
making  enterprise,  and  received  his  support  entirely  from  his 
anti-slavery  friends.  In  view  of  this,  and  the  fact  that  his 
business  failure  left  him  heavily  in  debt,  it  is  not  surprising  to 
leani  that  he  had  not  paid  for  the  land  he  had  contracted  to 
buy  from  Gerrit  Smith.  The  money  to  do  this  was  contributed 
by  some  of  his  friends,  who  put  their  names  to  the  following 
subscription  paper  in  July,  1857 : 

The  family  of  Captain  John  Brown,  of  Osawatomie,  have  no  means 
of  support,  owing  to  the  oppression  to  which  he  has  been  subjected  in 
Kansas  Territory.  It  is  proposed  to  put  them  (his  wife  and  five  chil- 
dren) in  possession  of  the  means  of  supporting  themselves,  so  far  as  is 
possible  for  persons  in  their  situation. 

One  thousand  dollars  was  raised.  It  was  immediately  ex- 
pended by  Mr.  Sanborn  in  clearing  the  title  to  the  Brown  and 
Thompson  farms,  and  deeds  were  then  given  to  Mrs.  Brown 
and  to  Mrs.  Thompson.  When  John  Brown,  who  was  then  in 
Iowa,  heard  of  this  act,  he  wrote  a  letter  full  of  gratitude,  in 
which  he  speaks  of  being  ''comforted  with  the  feeling  that  my 
noble-hearted  wife  and  daughters  will  not  be  driven  either  to 
beg  or  become  a  burden  to  my  poor  boys,  who  have  nothing 
but  their  hands  to  begin  with." 

The  Browns  often  for  long  periods  had  literally  not  a  penny 
in  the  house.  The  girls  would  pick  berries  and  sell  them  to 
their  neighbors,  with  the  avowed  purpose  of  securing  a  little 
fund  to  pay  the  postage  on  the  letters  to  their  father.  Colonel 
Higginson,  in  writing  of  a  visit  to  the  farm,  says  he  found 
Mrs.  Browm  worrying  over  a  large  tax  that  was  coming  due. 
It  finally  developed  that  the  appalling  amount  was  less  than 
ten  dollars,  but  Mrs.  Brovm  felt  quite  hopeless  of  getting  such 
a  sum  together.     The  inference  is  that  Colonel  Higginson 


10  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

advanced  it.  He  also  mentions  the  fact  that  he  found  the  little 
colony  considered  Oliver  Brown's  widow— a  young  girl  of 
sixteen — far  from  destitute,  because  she  had  been  left  five 
sheep  worth  two  dollars  apiece! 

Such  were  the  monetary  conditions  at  North  Elba.  It  fol- 
lows that  the  life  of  the  Browns  was  austerely  frugal.  From 
all  accounts  they  had  enough  to  eat,  but  their  fare  was  of  the 
simplest.  It  came  from  their  owm  and  the  neighboring  farms, 
or  from  occasional  supplies  that  John  Brown  sent  in  or 
brought  with  him.  Ruth,  in  some  of  her  letters,  insists— with 
a  somewhat  pathetic  touch  of  womanly  pride — that  they  al- 
ways had  a  cloth  upon  the  table.  She  does  not  hesitate  to 
admit,  however,  that  she,  her  mother,  and  her  sisters  had  only 
such  woolen  clothes  to  wear  as  they  themselves  could  spin. 

Despite  all  their  hardships  and  privations  the  Browns  were 
a  united  and  contented  family.  One  and  all  reflected  the  fa- 
ther's unselfish  idealism,  and  looked  upon  the  attendant  sacri- 
fices as  foreordained  for  those  devoted  to  a  great  cause. 
They  shared  the  spirit  of  that  high  puri')Ose  and  stern  intent, 
whose  undercurrent  was  always  setting  toward  some  vague, 
far-off  event,  that  ultimately  came  in  the  half-foolish,  half- 
divine  attack  at  Harper's  Ferry. 

Many  of  the  local  details  for  this  chapter  were  given  to  me 
by  a  friend  and  neighbor  Mr.  Thomas  Peacock,  who  was 
born  and  bred  at  North  Elba,  on  a  farm  adjoining  John 
Brown's.  Mr.  Peacock  played  and  went  to  school  with  the 
BrowTi  children,  and  saw  a  good  deal  of  the  family.  He  was 
a  mere  boy  at  the  time,  of  course,  but  there  was  something 
mysterious  and  apart  about  these  new  neighbors  that  left 
many  distinct  impressions  on  his  youthful  mind. 

One  of  the  most  vivid  and  interesting  of  these  was  having 
seen  John  Brown  take  his  departure  from  North  Elba  for  the 
last  time.  Young  Peacock  had  been  taken  to  the  Henry 
Thompson  house  by  his  father,  where  a  few  of  the  leading  men 
in  the  settlement  were  gathered.  The  boy  was  told  to  sit 
quietly  in  one  corner  of  the  room,  while  his  father  joined  the 
other  men  and  conversed  with  them  in  subdued  tones.  Occa- 
sionally one  of  them  would  step  to  the  open  door  and  look  out, 
as  if  expecting  another  arrival.    It  was  a  mild,  pleasant  eve- 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA       11 

iiing  in  June,  with  the  distant  mountains  fading  very  slowly 
into  the  soft-lipped  night.  Some  time  elapsed  and  the  shad- 
ows had  deepened,  before  the  tread  of  an  approaching  horse 
was  heard.  A  few  moments  later  John  Brown  entered  the 
room.  He  was  greeted  very  quietly,  and,  standing,  began 
talking  in  undertones  to  the  men  that  gathered  about  him. 
The  conference  did  not  seem  to  last  more  than  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes,  then  he  shook  hands  and  said  a  solemn  but  not  linger- 
ing good-by  to  each  one  present.  One  of  the  men  followed 
him  out  of  the  house  and  helped  him  to  unhitch  his  horse  and 
mount.  The  others  stood  silently  in  the  doorway,  watching 
their  leader  turn  his  horse's  head  away  from  his  mountain 
home  for  the  last  time.  So  did  the  man  of  struggle  start 
through  the  long  northern  twilight  for  the  last,  far-off  adven- 
ture of  his  restless  life. 

The  boy  who  chanced  to  be  a  witness  of  this  historic  scene, 
had  no  inkling,  of  course,  of  its  larger  import,  but  the  memory 
of  it  was  soon  intensified  by  the  tragedy  that  followed.  He 
remembers  that  John  Brown  looked  very  old  to  him  that 
night — that  he  was  beginning  to  stoop  and  show  his  years. 
But  he  was  still  a  commanding,  patriarchal  figure,  with  his 
stocky,  powerful  frame,  his  upright  bristling  hair,  his  square 
white  beard,  and  his  shaggily  browed  gray-blue  eyes  that  glit- 
tered wildly  at  times  with  the  consuming  fires  within.  His 
fifty-nine  years  had  abated  none  of  his  vigor  when  he  was 
roused  to  action,  as  the  event  showed.  He  was  still  a  man 
to  inspire  children  with  awe,  his  friends  with  deference,  and 
his  enemies  with  fear. 

The  exact  date  of  his  departure  from  North  Elba  is  not 
known.  Mr.  Villard  says:  ''It  was  probably  on  Thursday, 
June  16,  for  two  days  later,  June  18,  Brown's  diary  shows 
that  he  was  at  West  Andover,  Ohio."  ^  He  had  arrived  at  his 
mountain  home  less  than  a  week  before,  and  he  had  brought 
with  him  rather  more  supplies  than  usual.  He  also  showed 
more  than  his  usual  concern  about  the  comfort  of  his  loved 
ones.  Of  his  parting  with  them  there  is  no  record.  But  it 
is  not  probable  that  it  was  more  emotional  than  any  other. 

iJohn  Broum;  A  Biography  Fifty  Years  After,  by  Oswald  Garrison  Villard. 
Houghton  Mifflin  Co.     1911.     P.  401. 


12  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

They  were  people  of  deep  feelings,  but  of  undemonstrative 
habits.  Every  parting  of  the  last  four  years  had  held  a  pos- 
sibility of  being  the  last,  and  this  one  held  no  greater  uncer- 
tainty than  previous  ones.  It  is  Mr.  Peacock ^s  impression 
that  Brown  had  taken  final  leave  of  his  family  before  coming 
to  the  Thompson  house  on  the  night  of  June  16,  1859. 

He  was  executed  at  Charlestown,  Va.,  on  December  2d  of 
the  same  year.  His  widow  obtained  permission  to  remove 
the  body  to  North  Elba,  where,  on  December  8th,  it  was  for- 
mally buried  in  the  spot  he  had  chosen.  The  day  was  cold 
and  bleak,  and  notable  for  the  fact  that  there  was  no  snow 
upon  the  ground.  The  ceremonies  were  extremely  simple. 
The  neighbors  came  from  miles  around,  but  only  a  few  out- 
siders were  there.  Among  these  was  the  Rev.  Joshua  Young 
of  Burlington,  Vt.,  who  conducted  the  services,  and  thereby 
suddenly  became,  next  to  John  Brown  himself,  the  most  noto- 
rious and  abused  man  of  his  day.  The  simple  but  at  the  time 
heroic  Christian  act  that  led  to  this,  was  entirely  unpremedi- 
tated. Dr.  Young  had  never  met,  or  even  seen,  John  BrowTi. 
He  had  long  admired  him  from  a  distance,  but  he  was  at  his 
funeral  by  the  merest  chance. 

The  details  of  the  interesting  story,  though  kno^^m  to  a 
few,  of  course,  were  never  given  to  the  public  till  shortly  be- 
fore Dr.  Young  died  at  his  then  home  in  AYinchester,  Mass., 
in  1904.  Only  two  weeks  before  his  death  he  sent  to  the  *'New 
England  Magazine"  the  last  manuscript  he  ever  prepared  for 
publication.  It  was  an  article  entitled:  ''The  Burial  of  John 
Brown,"  and  it  appeared  in  the  April,  1904,  number  of  the 
magazine.  From  this,  and  some  letters  of  Dr.  Young,  I  offer 
the  following  summary  of  events.  First  of  all,  the  little- 
known  story  of  John  Brown's  last  journey  to  his  mountain 
home  will  bear  retelling. 

The  execution  at  Charlesto^Ti  took  place  on  Friday,  Decem- 
ber 2,  1859.  After  the  body  was  examined  and  pronounced 
dead,  it  was  conveyed  under  military  escort  to  the  station  and 
sent  to  Harper's  Ferry.  There  it  was  delivered  to  the  weep- 
ing widow  and  a  few  friends. 

They  proceeded  to  Philadelphia,  where  they  arrived  the  fol- 
lowing day,  Saturday,  at  noon.    Here  a  large  crowd— mostly 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA  13 

negroes — had  gathered  at  and  around  the  station.  Some  fric- 
tion had  occurred,  and  trouble  was  in  the  air.  The  mayor  and 
a  squad  of  policemen  soon  arrived  on  the  scene.  An  inter- 
view took  place  between  the  mayor  and  Mr.  J.  M.  McKim,  who 
was  one  of  Mrs.  Brown's  escort.  He  wished  to  remain  over 
in  Philadelphia  till  Monday,  to  give  Mrs.  Brown  a  rest  and  to 
have  her  husband's  body  embalmed.  The  mayor  said  this 
would  be  impossible  in  view  of  the  increasing  excitement, 
which  was  threatening  a  riot.  The  body  must  proceed  on  its 
journey  at  once.  He  would  see  it  safely  through  the  city,  but 
could  do  no  more.  To  do  even  this  he  had  to  resort  to  trick- 
ery. There  happened  to  be  a  long  box  in  the  baggage-car  that 
looked  like  a  coffin.  This  was  hastily  covered  and  openly 
placed  on  a  wagon.  The  crowd  was  informed  that  the  sup- 
posed body  would  be  taken  to  the  Anti-Slavery  Office,  and 
would  lie  there  in  state  over  Sunday.  They  followed  this 
decoy,  and  the  station  was  cleared.  The  real  coffin  was  then 
immediately  slipped  out  by  a  side  door,  and  driven  to  the  New 
York  station.  Here  Mr.  McKim  was  waiting  to  receive  it, 
and  continue  the  northward  journey.  Mrs.  Brown,  com- 
pletely exhausted,  remained  in  Philadelphia  over  Sunday, 
with  Mr.  Tyndale,  at  the  house  of  a  friend.  She  had  passed 
through  the  crowd  at  the  station  without  being  recognized. 

Mr.  McKim,  with  his  charge,  reached  New  York  Saturday 
night.  Being  ahead  of  his  schedule,  he  escaped  all  notice. 
The  body  was  taken  to  an  undertaker's  on  the  Bowery,  and 
left  there  to  be  embalmed.  Late  that  night  the  reporters, 
having  got  wind  of  the  arrival,  ferreted  out  the  place,  and 
had  a  "story''  in  the  Sunday  papers.  But  nothing  of  more 
moment  happened. 

The  cortege  party,  now  reunited,  proceeded  to  Troy  on 
Monday.  Here  they  stopped  for  a  while  at  the  American 
House,  a  temperance  hotel  where  Brown  had  often  stayed 
when  hving.  That  night  they  made  Rutland,  Vt.,  where  they 
received  much  kindly  attention.  It  is  noticeable  how  the 
general  sympathy  increased  and  signs  of  hostility  lessened 
as  they  drew  nearer  home. 

The  next  morning,  Tuesday,  Vergennes  was  reached,  and  a 
rest  taken  at  the  hotel.    When  the  time  for  departure  came, 


14  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

carriages  were  found  waiting,  and  a  large  concourse  assem- 
bled in  the  street  to  do  honor  to  the  dead  hero.  The  bells  of 
the  churches  were  tolled,  and  a  solemn  procession  followed 
the  body  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Champlain. 

Here  a  boat  was  waiting  which  by  special  arrangement 
landed  the  party  at  Westport  across  the  lake.  From  there 
they  proceeded  at  once  to  Elizabethtown,  ten  miles  away. 
Here  the  night  was  spent.  The  court-house  was  offered  as  a 
resting-place  for  the  body,  and  six  volunteers  spent  the  night 
with  it  as  a  guard  of  honor.  The  next  day,  Wednesday,  De- 
cember 7th,  the  last  and  hardest  stage  of  the  journey  was  com- 
pleted— the  long,  rough  ride  over  the  mountains  and  through 
Keene  Valley  to  the  North  Elba  home.  The  next  day,  Thurs- 
day, December  8,  1859,  the  funeral  took  place ;  and  this  leads 
to  the  strangest  part  of  the  story. 

The  Rev.  Joshua  Young  Avas  at  the  time  thirty-six  years  old 
and  in  the  seventh  year  of  his  ministry  of  the  Unitarian 
Church  in  Burlington.  He  knew,  of  course,  that  John 
Brown's  body  was  being  conveyed  to  its  last  resting-place. 
Everybody  knew  that,  but  few  knew  by  what  route,  concerning 
which  the  most  conflicting  reports  circulated.  At  noon  of 
Wednesday,  December  7th,  Dr.  Young  had  no  idea  of  attend- 
ing the  funeral.  How  he  came  to  do  so  had  best  be  told  in  his 
own  words : 

On  Wednesday,  just  after  dinner,  I  met  on  the  street  my  parish- 
oner  and  warm  personal  friend,  an  abolitionist  like  myself,  only  more 
ardent,  Mr.  Lucius  G.  Bifrelow,  who  at  once  said  to  me:  "It  is  now 
known  that  the  body  of  John  Brown  will  cross  the  lake  at  Vereennes. 
I  want  exceedingly  to  go  to  his  funeral.  Only  say  that  you  will  go 
with  me  as  my  companion  and  my  guest,  and  we  will  take  the  next 
train."  To  whom  I  replied :  "I  will  meet  you  at  the  station  at  four 
o'clock." 

On  reaching  Vergennes  they  learned  that  the  funeral  party 
had  crossed  the  lake  the  day  before.  They  decided  to  follow 
and  overtake  it  if  possible.  They  hired  horses  and  drove  to 
the  ferry  in  the  township  of  Panton,  six  miles  away.  In  the 
meantime  a  threatening  day  had  ended  in  a  severe  northeast 
storm.     The   ferrjTuan   refused   to   budge.     He   knew   John 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA  15 

Brown  and  admired  him— all  but  his  last  act.  He  had  ferried 
him  across  the  lake  many  times,  but  he  would  launch  his  boat 
for  no  one  in  such  a  storm.  For  an  hour  or  more  the  travelers 
argued  and  urged,  but  to  no  avail.  Finally  a  change  in  the 
weather  caused  a  change  in  the  feri-yman.  The  clouds  sud- 
denly broke,  the  raia  ceased,  a  full  moon  came  out,  and  the 
storm  began  to  abate.  The  ferryman  consented  to  take  them 
over.  The  boat  was  a  cumbrous  scow  with  one  sail.  The 
\vdnd,  still  high,  was  in  their  favor,  however,  and  they  made 
the  passage  of  three  miles  quickly,  but  in  great  discomfort. 
A  little  after  midnight  they  were  landed  safely  at  Barber '« 
Point. 

Here  they -procured  horses  which  took  them  to  Elizabeth- 
town.    From  there,  a  fresh  relay  carried  them  on  through  the 
night  and  the  cold  and  the  horrible  roads  to  their  destination. 
They  reached  John  Brown's  farm  the  next  day,  nearly  ex- 
i  hausted  by  fatigue  and  exposure.     They  w^ere  cordially  re- 
ceived, of  course,  and  found  themselves  in  a  very  considerable 
company  of  people,  mostly  friends  and  neighbors  of  John 
[  Brown.     Soon  after  there  occurred  the  crucial  incident  in 
i  Dr.  Young's  career,  and  I  leave  him  again  to  tell  it  in  his 
own  words : 

Presently  Mr.  Wendell  Phillips  came  into  the  room;  a  few  words 
were  exchanged,  and  then  retiring  for  a  few  minutes,  he  returned  and 
f  said  to  me:     "Mr.  Young,  you  are  a  minister;  admiration  for  this 
I  dead  hero  and  sympathy  with  this  bereaved  family  must  have  brought 
you  here,  journeying  all  night  through  the  cold  rain  and  over  the 
!  dismal  mountains  to  reach  this  place.     It  would  give  INIrs.  Brown  and 
!  the  other  widows  great  satisfaction  if  you  would  perform  the  usual 
;  service  of  a  clergyman  on  this  occasion."     Of  course  there  was  but 
one  answer  to  make  to  such  a  request — from  that  moment  I  knew  why 
;  God  had  sent  me  there.     For  it  must  be  remembered  that  five  house- 
holds and  four  families  of  North  Elba  were  stricken  by  that  blow  at 
Harper's  Ferry. 

The  funeral  took  place  at  one  o'clock.  The  services  began 
with  the  singing  of  "Blow  ye  the  trumpet,  blow!"  All  joined 
in  this  who  could,  but  the  old  tune  was  most  familiar  to  the 
negroes,  most  of  them  fugitive  slaves,  who  made  up  about  half 
of  those  present.     Then  followed  a  prayer  by  Dr.  Young ;  then 


16  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

an  eloquent,  moving  speech  by  Wendell  Pliillips.  After  that 
another  hymn  was  sung.  During  this  the  coffin  was  so  placed 
that  all  could  see  the  dead  man 's  face.  It  looked  very  natural, 
having  a  slight  flush  (caused  by  the  manner  of  his  death) 
instead  of  the  usual  pallor. 

Then  came  the  short  procession  from  the  house  to  the  grave. 
Six  residents  of  North  Elba  bore  the  coffin.  It  was  followed 
by  Mrs.  John  Brown  on  the  arm  of  Mr.  Phillips;  the  widow 
of  Oliver  on  the  arm  of  Mr.  McKim,  who  by  the  other  hand 
led  little  Ellen  Bro\^^l ;  next  came  the  widow  of  Watson  wdth 
Dr.  Young,  then  the  widow  of  William  Thompson  with  Mr. 
Bigelow.  At  the  grave  Dr.  Young  closed  the  ceremonies  by 
quoting  the  words  of  Paul  before  Nero : 

I  have  fought  a  good  fight,  I  have  finished  my  course,  I  have  kept 
the  faith.  Henceforth  there  is  laid  up  for  me  a  crown  of  righteous- 
ness which  the  righteous  judge  shall  give  me  at  that  day,  and  not  to 
me  only,  but  unto  all  them  also  that  love  his  appearing. 

Immediately  after  the  funeral  most  of  the  guests,  including 
Dr.  Young,  started  for  home.  On  reaching  there  the  minister 
began  to  reap  the  passionate  aftermath  of  his  Christian  act. 
He  found  that  already  six  of  his  wealthiest  parishioners  had 
resigned  from  his  church.  Others  soon  followed.  Friends 
avoided  him  upon  the  streets.  The  papers  all  over  the  coun- 
try, with  few  exceptions,  vilified  and  caricatured  him.  He 
was  the  butt  of  tongue  and  pen  from  coast  to  coast.  He  was 
branded  an  ''anarchist,"  a  ''traitor,"  an  "infidel,"  a  "blas- 
phemer," a  "vile  associate  of  Garrison  and  Phillips."  He 
left  Burlington  a  respected  citizen  and  honored  pastor,  he 
returned  to  it,  two  days  later,  to  find  himself  "little  better 
than  a  social  outcast." 

Dr.  Young  purposely  withheld  the  publication  of  his  acci- 
dental share  in  this  stirring  event  until  near  the  close  of  his 
life,  although  his  friends  had  often  urged  him  to  release  it 
before. 

In  the  summer  following  the  funeral,  on  July  4,  1860,  a 
John  Brown  celebration  was  held  in  the  woods  which  then 
adjoined  the  farm.  This  was  largely  attended  both  by  natives 
and  outsiders.     There  were  many  stirring  speeches  and  much 


"CONE"  FLANDERS  HOUSE 
About  one-half  mile  from  Scott's,  where  John  Brown  first  lived 


fe 


Photo  by  Murray  Mir- 


JOHN  BROWN'S  FARM 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA  17 

singing,  led  as  usual  by  the  Epps  family.  The  event  was  al- 
together notable  and  impressive. 

Mrs.  Brown  remained  on  the  farm  till  1864,  when  she  sold 
it  to  Alexus  Hinckley,  and  moved  away.  The  Hinckleys  were 
old  settlers  at  North  Elba,  and  Salmon  Brown  had  married 
one  of  the  daughters,  Abbie,  in  1857. 

In  1870  the  farm  was  purchased  by  the  John  Brown  Asso- 
ciation, of  which  Miss  Kate  Field,  the  eccentric  authoress, 
was  the  organizer.  She  had  always  been  an  ardent  admirer 
of  John  Brown,  even  to  the  extent  of  wishing  to  be  buried  at 
his  side.  When  she  heard  that  his  farm  was  for  sale  and 
likely  to  pass  into  unsympathetic  hands,  she  made  a  strenuous 
effort  to  save  it  as  a  historical  shrine.  She  succeeded  in  inter- 
esting twenty  well-known  gentlemen,  who  contributed  a  hun- 
dred dollars  each  and  formed  themselves  into  an  association 
to  buy  and  maintain  the  John  Brown  Farm.  It  was  pur- 
chased, and  the  deed  given  to  Mr.  Henry  Clews,  the  banker, 
as  trustee,  who  held  it  in  this  capacity  for  twenty-five  years. 
During  this  time  the  association  maintained  a  resident  care- 
taker on  the  premises  and  kept  them  in  repair.  Finally  a 
movement  was  started  to  have  the  State  take  over  the  prop- 
erty, and  by  1896  all  legal  preliminaries  for  the  transfer  had 
been  made.  The  attendant  ceremonies  took  place  on  July  21, 
1896. 

A  deed  of  gift,  made  by  Henry  Clews  and  wife,  conveys  and 
dedicates  to  the  People  of  New  York  State,  land  situated  in 
North  Elba,  Essex  County,  more  particularly  described  as  Lot 
95,  Township  12,  Old  Military  Tract,  Thorn's  Survey,  to  be 
''used  for  the  purpose  of  a  public  park  or  reservation  for- 
ever." 

Lot  95  contains  244  acres,  and  all  of  it  is  conveyed,  except- 
ing one  eighth  of  an  acre.  This  comprises  the  little  burial 
plot,  title  to  which  remains  vested  in  John  Brown's  heirs. 

A  large  concourse  of  people  attended  the  ceremonies — resi- 
dents from  miles  around,  visitors  from  summer  hotels,  and 
chosen  representatives  of  the  people  and  the  State.  First  of 
all  a  large  United  States  flag  was  raised  above  John  Brown's 
grave.  Then  came  the  unveiling  of  a  monumental  stone 
erected  on  a  boulder  just  outside  the  burial  plot.     This  stone 


18  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

is  a  granite  slab,  nine  feet  high  and  four  feet  wide.    It  bears 
the  following  inscription : 

John  Bbown's  Farm 
Donated  to  the  People  of  the 
State  of  New  York 
by 
Kate  Field,  Anna  Quincy  Waterston, 

LeGrand  B.  Cannon,  Isaac  H.  Bailey, 

Salem  H.  Wales,  Henry  Clews, 

William  H.  Lee,  Charles  Stewart  Smith, 

Simeon  B    Chittenden,  George  Cabot  Ward, 

D.  R.  Martin,  George  A.  Bobbins, 

Jackson  S.  Schultz,  Charles  C.  Judson, 

Isaac  Sherman,  Horace  B.  Claflin, 

Elliot  C.  Cowdin,  John  E.  Williams, 

Sinclair  Tousey,  Thomas  Murphy. 

A.  D.  1896  1 

This  tablet  was  covered  by  a  loose  flag.  While  those  pres- 
ent joined  in  singing  "America,"  it  was  unveiled  by  the  hands 
of  two  old  men — Leander  and  Frank  Thompson,  whose  two 
brothers  were  killed  at  Harper's  Ferry.  The  assemblage 
then  gathered  in  and  around  the  house,  where  the  further  exer- 
cises were  held.  The  Rev.  Dr.  Brinkhurst  of  Chicago  offered 
a  prayer.  Then  General  Edwin  A.  Merritt  of  Potsdam  made 
an  address,  in  which,  as  representative  of  the  donors,  he  ten- 
dered the  farm  to  the  State.  It  was  accepted  by  Colonel  Ash- 
ley W.  Cole,  acting  for  Governor  Levi  P.  Morton,  who  was 
unable  to  be  present.  Then  all  joined  in  singing  'Mohn 
Brown's  body  lies  amouldering  in  the  grave." 

There  followed  a  lengthy  address,  reviewing  John  Brown's 
career,  by  Colonel  Henry  H.  Lyman  of  Oswego.  Next  came 
what  was  to  man)^  I  think,  the  most  impressive  and  touching 
part  of  the  program.  There  w^as  a  colored  family,  named 
Epps,  who  for  years  had  led  the  singing  at  the  North  Elba 
church  services.     They  were  escaped  slaves  who  had  come  to 

1  Twenty  years  later,  Aug.  23,  1916,  another  tablet  was  unveiled  at  John 
Brown's  grave.  It  was  the  result  of  a  movement  started  by  Byron  T.  Brewster 
of  Lake  Placid,  an  old  friend  and  admirer  of  the  Osawatomie  hero.  This  tablet 
also  was  affixed  to  the  large  boulder  in  the  burial  plot.  The  inscription  recites 
the  chief  events  in  John  Brown's  career,  followed  by  the  names  of  the  twelve 
followers  buried  beside  him.  In  separate  columns  are  those  who  were  caught  and 
hanged,  and  those  who  escaped  from  Harper's  Ferry. 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA       19 

the  place  when  John  Brown  moved  there.  The  father,  Lyman 
Epps,  was  now  an  old  man,  and  his  sons  were  no  longer 
young,  but  all  had  retained  the  gift  of  song  and  were  sweet 
singers  before  the  Lord.  They  mounted  a  little  platform  built 
for  them  in  the  open  place  before  the  house,  and  sang  John 
BrowTi's  favorite  hymn,  "The  Year  of  Jubilee,"  beginning: 
"Blow  ye  the  trumpet,  blow!"  They  had  often  sung  it  with 
him  in  the  old  days,  making  of  its  words  a  prayer;  and  now 
they  sang  it  by  his  grave,  a  prophecy  come  true. 

The  day  and  the  scene  were  impressively  perfect.  The  air 
was  still,  and  freighted  with  the  sweetness  of  forests  in  re- 
pose. The  distant  panorama  of  encircling  mountains  was  mel- 
lowed by  soft  amethystine  haze,  and  gave  the  impress  of  na- 
ture kneeling  down  in  prayer.  The  spirit  of  the  dead  rose  up 
and  mingled  with  the  mood  of  loveliness  around,  and  they  who 
sang  thought  not  of  those  who  listened,  but  of  those  who  had 
given  their  lives  to  make  the  singers  free.  Above  the  rich 
blend  of  the  quartet  floated  the  pure,  sweet  tenor  of  old  man 
Epps,  in  tones  which  might  have  come  from  the  adolescent 
throat  of  a  choir-boy.  With  closed  eyes  and  uplifted  head  he 
sang  as  one  inspired,  and  poured  forth  a  swan-song  of  un- 
earthly beauty.^ 

The  Rev.  Father  Lynch  spoke  the  benediction.  Then  a  pla- 
toon of  war  veterans  discharged  three  volleys  over  John 
Brown's  grave — a  soldier's  salute,  delivered  at  last,  after 
thirty-seven  years  of  cooling  passions.  And  so  the  North 
Elba  farm  passed  forever  into  the  ranks  of  historical  relics. 

Three  years  later,  in  1899,  another  unique  event  took  place 
at  North  Elba,  and  the  attention  of  the  country  was  focused 
again  for  a  day  around  John  Brown's  grave.  On  this  occasion 
the  bones  of  ten  of  his  followers  at  Harper's  Ferry  were 
placed  in  a  grave  beside  their  leader's.  The  ceremonies  were 
widely  advertised,  largely  attended,  and  extensively  reported, 
and  yet  they  seem  to  have  escaped  the  notice  of  the  general 
public. 

This  last  scene  in  the  John  Brown  drama  was  staged  en- 
tirely by  Miss  Katharine  E.  McClellan,  formerly  of  Saranac 
Lake,  but  now  residing  at  Sarasota,  Fla.     During  her  resi- 

1  Lyman  Epi)s  died  in  March,  1897,  and  was  buried  at  North  Elba. 


20  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

dence  in  Saranac  Lake,  Miss  McClellan  established  a  photo- 
graphic studio  and  became  widely  known  for  her  artistic  pic- 
tures of  Adirondack  scenery.  Among  them  were  many  of 
John  Brown's  home,  some  of  which  are  used  in  the  official  re- 
port ^  of  its  transfer  to  the  State.  Miss  McClellan  also  wrote 
a  sketch  of  John  Brown  which,  neatly  bound  and  artistically 
illustrated,  was  on  sale  at  the  farm  for  a  number  of  years. 
This  association  of  her  name  with  the  place  led  to  her  receiv- 
ing one  day  a  rather  startling  letter  from  an  utter  stranger. 
The  writer  was  Dr.  Thomas  Featherstonhaugh  of  Washing- 
ton, D.  C.  He  unfolded  a  plan  to  exhume  the  bones  of  several 
of  John  Brown's  followers,  and  have  them  reburicd  beside 
their  leader,  Avith  public  ceremonies  and  military  honors,  tie 
himself  could  not  leave  Washington,  and  he  begged  Miss  Mc- 
Clellan to  undertake  the  North  Elba  end  of  the  scheme.  In 
the  enthusiasm  of  the  moment  she  consented,  not  fully  real- 
izing the  difficulties  of  the  task  she  had  assumed,  but  carry- 
ing it  through,  by  unflagging  zeal  and  tireless  effort,  to  a  most 
successful  issue.  The  affair  led  to  much  correspondence, 
especially  with  Dr.  Featherstonhaugh.  All  of  this  Miss  Mc- 
Clellan has  kindly  turned  over  to  me  for  use  in  this  chapter. 

Great  secrecy  was  maintained  in  the  sending  and  arrival  of 
the  bones,  for  they  had  been  taken  without  the  knowledge  or 
consent  of  any  one,  save  the  owner  of  the  land  on  which  they 
lay.  They  were  brought  to  Saranac  Lake  by  a  confidential 
agent,  in  an  ordinary  traveling-trunk.  This  was  left  with 
Miss  McClellan,  who  kept  it  at  her  house  till  just  before  the 
ceremonies.  Up  to  the  last  there  was  the  vague  dread  of  sud- 
den interference,  but  none  of  any  moment  developed. 

Twenty-two  men  were  engaged  in  the  attack  at  Harper's 
Ferry.  Of  these  seven  were  captured  and  hanged;  five 
escaped,  and  ten  were  killed.  Among  the  latter  were  Watson 
Brown  and  Jeremiah  G.  Anderson,  whose  bodies  were  given 
to  the  Winchester  Medical  College  of  Virginia,  for  anatomical 
purposes.  What  became  of  Anderson's  remains  after  that  is 
not  known;  but  Watson's  were  recovered  and  buried  at  North 
Elba  in  1882.  The  other  bodies  were  rudely  interred  in  two 
large  boxes  on  the  edge  of  the  Shenandoah  River,  about  half 

1  Fisheries,  Game  and  Forest  Commission.     Report  for  189G. 


JOHN  BROWN  AT  NORTH  ELBA  21 

a  mile  from  Harper's  Ferry.  It  is  the  bones  of  these  eight 
men  that  Dr.  Featherstoiihaugh  recovered.  Their  names 
follow; 

Oliver  Brown,  son  of  John. 

William  Thompson  of  North  Elba.   ) 

Dauphin  Thompson  of  North  Elba  J    ^^^^^^^^  of  Henry. 

Stewart  Taylor  of  Uxbridge,  Canada. 

John  Henrie  Kagi  of  Bristol,  O. 

William  H.  Leeman  of  Hallowell,  Me. 

Dangerfield   Newby,  j 

Lewis  Sheridan   Leary.   \    ^^"l^^os. 

The  remains  of  two  other  bodies  were  added  to  the  list  at 
the  last  moment.  Mr.  E.  P.  Stevens  of  Brookline,  Mass., 
hearing  of  what  was  going  on,  asked  permission  to  send  the 
bones  of  his  uncle  Aaron  D.  Stevens,  and  of  a  companion 
Albert  Hazlett,  to  be  reinterred  with  their  comrades.  These 
were  two  of  the  raiders  who  had  been  caught  and  hanged,  and 
later  buried  at  Perth  Amboy,  N.  J.  Their  accession  to  the 
number  made  a  total  of  ten  bodies  recovered. 

The  other  eight  bodies  were  disinterred  on  July  29,  1899, 
by  Dr.  Featherstonhaugh,  accompanied  by  Captain  E.  P.  Hall 
of  Washington  and  Professor  0.  G.  Libby  of  the  University  of 
Wisconsin,  who  brought  the  mysterious  trunk  to  Saranac 
Lake,  Dr.  Featherstonhaugh  feels  that  the  identity  of  the 
remains  is  beyond  question,  owing  to  the  unusual  boxes  that 
contained  them,  to  the  remote  and  virtually  unknown  spot 
that  hid  them,  and  above  all  to  the  fact  that  James  Mansfield 
of  Harper's  Ferry,  who  received  five  dollars  from  the  county 
to  bury  them,  was  again  employed  to  unearth  them. 

The  two  large  boxes  were  found  to  lie  about  three  feet 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and,  although  much  decayed, 
were  still  in  an  unexpected  state  of  preservation,  owing  to 
moisture  from  the  near-by  river.  Much  of  the  clothing  was 
also  preserved.  Parts  of  coats  and  vests,  with  the  buttons 
still  on,  were  found.  From  one  of  the  pockets  there  fell  two 
short  lead-pencils,  sharpened  for  use,  which,  thanks  to  Miss 
McClellan,  are  now  in  my  possession. 

Masses  of  woolen  texture  were  found  around  each  body, 
which  would  argue  that  they  had  been  buried  in  the  blanket 
shawls  in  which  they  fought — shawls  which  had  been  sent  to 


22  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

the  Kennedy  farm  as  a  gift  shortly  before  the  raid.  The 
smaller  bones  of  the  bodies  had  all  mouldered  away,  but  the 
larger  ones  were  found  intact. 

These,  after  making  their  journey  northward  in  a  trunk, 
were  finally  placed,  with  the  Perth  Amboy  remains,  in  one 
handsome  casket.  This,  at  Miss  McClellan's  suggestion,  was 
donated  by  the  Town  of  North  Elba.  It  had  silver  handles 
and  a  silver  plate,  on  wliich  were  inscribed  the  names  of  the 
men  and  the  date  of  burial. 

The  day  chosen  for  the  ceremonies  was  August  30,  1899 — 
the  forty-third  anniversary  of  the  last  fight  at  Osawatomie. 
Once  again  the  weather  was  fair  and  smiled  upon  the  occasion, 
which  lured  some  fifteen  hundred  people  to  the  lonely  spot. 
Ruth  Thompson — an  old  lady  living  in  the  West — wrote  that 
she  felt  so  happy  over  the  event  that  she  could  not  sleep.  She 
said  she  would  be  there  in  spirit,  but  that  poverty  would  pre- 
vent her  coming  in  person. 

The  Rev.  Joshua  Young,  who  had  laid  John  Brown  to  rest, 
performed  the  last  rites  over  the  new  grave  of  his  followers. 
Colonel  Richard  J.  Hinton  made  a  lengthy  address,  and  Bishop 
Potter  and  Whitelaw  Reid  made  shorter  ones.  The  surviving 
members  of  the  Epps  family  once  more  made  sweet  and  sol- 
emn music  above  the  graves  of  men  who  had  died  to  make 
them  free.  A  detachment  of  the  26tli  U.  S.  Infantry,  from 
Plattsburg,  fired  a  soldier's  salute;  the  benediction  was 
spoken,  and  the  curtain  fell  on  the  last  act  of  a  national  drama, 
begun  at  Harper's  Ferry  forty  years  before. 


I 


CHAPTER  XXXI 
ADIRONDACK  LODGE 

A  FEW  miles  south  of  Lake  Placid  is  Heart  Lake  (for- 
merly Clear  Lake),  on  whose  shores  stood  the  once 
famous  Adirondack  Lodge,  one  of  the  largest  log  structures 
in  the  world.  It  was  a  unique  building,  erected  and  domi- 
nated for  many  years  by  a  unique  man — Henry  van  Hoeven- 
berg. 

For  many  of  the  details  of  his  career  I  am  indebted  to  one 
of  his  most  intimate  friends  Mr.  Godfrey  Dewey  of  the  Lake 
Placid  Club,  who  wrote  a  lengthy  obituary  article  concerning 
him  for  the  "Lake  Placid  News"  of  March  1,  1918. 

Mr.  van  Hoevenberg,  or  ''Mr.  Van,"  as  he  was  popularly 
called,  came  of  Dutch  Huguenot  ancestry,  and  was  born  at 
Oswego,  N.  Y.,  on  March  22,  1849.  His  family  later  moved 
to  Lansingburg,  and  then  to  Troy,  where  he  attended  school. 
At  an  early  age  he  showed  a  marked  bent  for  mechanical  in- 
vention. Obliged  to  go  to  work  in  his  teens,  he  secured  a 
position  as  telegraph  messenger  boy.  His  interest  centered 
at  once  around  the  keyboard,  and  he  soon  became  an  expert 
operator.  Telegraphy  was  then  in  its  infancy,  and  the  gifted 
young  Van  was  not  long  in  devising  and  applying  schemes  for 
its  improvement.  He  was  one  of  the  first  to  see  the  possibili- 
ties of  a  printing  telegraph,  and  ultimately  contributed  to  its 
development  some  of  the  basic  principles  in  use  to-day.  He 
rose  rapidly  in  his  profession  and  became  chief  electrician  of 
the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  system.  Later  he  was  called  to  Eng- 
land to  supervise  one  of  the  first  printing  telegraphs  installed 
there.  He  is  said  to  have  taken  out  over  one  hundred  patents 
in  his  lifetime,  and  to  have  received  over  $100,000  from  them. 
Nearly  all  of  this  went  into  his  Adirondack  Lodge,  and  w^as 
ultimately  lost.  Like  most  inventors  he  was  not  remarkable 
for  commercial  shrewdness,  and  was  prone  to  get  into  law- 
suits. 

23 


24  A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

About  the  time  he  built  the  lodge,  he  began  to  suffer  from  a 
virulent  form  of  hay-fever,  which  gradually  forced  him  to 
spend  all  his  time  in  the  woods  and  to  give  up  all  outside  ac- 
tivities. After  losing  his  ownership  of  the  lodge,  in  1895,  he 
was  engaged  by  the  newly  organized  Lake  Placid  Club  as  its 
first  postmaster  and  telegraph  operator.  Later  he  became 
manager  of  the  telegraph  office  in  the  village  of  Lake  Placid. 

In  1900  the  Lake  Placid  Club  bought  the  lodge  and  rein- 
stalled Mr.  Van  as  superintendent  and  host  in  his  former 
home.  He  stayed  there  till  it  burned  in  the  destructive  fires 
of  1903.  Again  he  went  back  to  the  club,  acting  in  various 
useful  and  popular  capacities.  His  interest  at  this  time  and 
his  duties  centered  largely  in  promoting  the  objects  of  the 
Adirondack  Camp  and  Trail  Club,  which  was  organized 
through  the  combined  enthusiasm  of  himself,  Mr.  Edward  A. 
Woods  of  Pittsburgh,  and  Mr.  Godfrey  Dewey.  The  purpose 
of  the  club  was  to  blaze  and  keep  open  trails  to  the  higher 
peaks  and  strategic  points  of  outlook;  to  build  lean-tos  and 
huts,  and  to  furnish  them  with  a  communal  supply  of  blankets 
and  cooking-utensils.  Mr.  Van's  fondest  dream  was  to  erect 
a  permanent  stone  shelter  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Marcy. 
This,  however,  he  did  not  live  to  accomplish. 

Feeling  the  necessity  of  going  into  business,  he  moved 
across  the  lake  and  opened  an  electrical  store  in  the  village 
in  1917.  Soon  after,  he  was  taken  suddenly  ill  while  off  on  a 
tramp  one  Sunday  afternoon,  and  his  friends  at  the  club  in- 
duced him  to  return  to  it  for  rest  and  recuperation.  For  a 
week  he  seemed  to  improve,  but  he  died  suddenly  on  Febmary 
25,  1918.  Services  were  held  at  Lake  Placid,  and  the  body 
was  taken  to  Troy  for  burial.  He  was  survived  by  only  one 
near  relative,  a  sister,  Mrs.  Gilbert  Knight  of  Gilbertsville, 
Mass. 

The  building  of  Adirondack  Lodge  traces  back  to  romantic 
beginnings.  Mr.  Van's  first  visit  to  the  mountains  was  in 
1877  when,  with  some  friends,  he  camped  on  Upper  Ausable 
Lake.  In  the  party  was  a  Miss  Josephine  Scofield,  to  whom 
he  became  engaged.  The  young  lovers  were  naturally 
under  the  spell  of  the  Adirondacks,  and  wove  them  ardently 
into  their  plans  for  the  future.     They  decided  to  climb  the 


ADIRONDACK  LODGE  25 

highest  mountain  and  from  its  summit  select  the  most  beau- 
tiful spot  in  sight  as  the  location  for  a  future  home — a  home 
that  was  also  to  be  a  house  of  entertainment  for  friends  and 
acquaintances. 

They  ascended  Mount  Marcy,  and  found  in  the  outlook  some 
embarrassment  of  beautiful  spots.  Finally,  however,  they 
agreed  upon  one.  It  was  a  tiny  lake  that  looked  to  them  like 
a  heart-shaped  sapphire  deeply  cushioned  in  the  velvety  green 
of  primeval  tree-tops.  It  lay  in  utter  seclusion,  the  moun- 
tains rising  sheer  from  its  shores.  One  of  them  was  imme- 
diately named  Mount  Jo,  in  honor  of  Miss  Scofield.  The  spot 
she  chose  became  the  site  of  the  lodge,  but  she  did  not  live  to 
see  it  built.     She  died  suddenly  mthin  the  year. 

In  the  following  summer  of  1878,  Mr.  Van  returned  to  the 
woods,  ha\ing  resolved  to  carry  out  alone,  as  a  form  of  memo- 
rial, the  general  scheme  that  had  been  planned.  He  bought 
640  acres  of  land  surrounding  Heart  Lake  and  including 
Mount  Jo.  He  cleared  a  bit  of  level  ground  near  the  lake, 
and  began  the  erection  of  the  lodge.  First  of  all,  a  road  had 
to  be  built  to  it  from  the  highway  at  North  Elba.  This  new 
road  was  of  corduroy  construction,  and  traces  of  the  massive 
logs  that  were  used  are  still  visible  to-day.  All  the  building 
material  for  the  lodge,  except  the  big  logs,  had  to  be  hauled 
in  from  Ausable  Forks,  thirty-five  miles  away. 

The  exterior  of  the  house  was  formed  of  giant  spruces, 
many  of  them  measuring  over  two  feet  in  the  lower  courses. 
The  main  building  had  a  frontage  of  eighty-five  feet  and  was 
thirty-six  feet  deep  and  three  stories  high,  wdth  a  rear  wing 
of  almost  equal  size.  A  very  high,  built-in  observation  tower 
rose  above  the  gabled  roof,  and  broad  piazzas  stretched  on 
every  side.  The  interior  was  inlaid  with  every  refinement  of 
rustic  work  that  skill  and  ingenuity  could  devise.  It  also  con- 
tained every  comfort  and  sanitary  convenience  that  the  times 
afforded,  and  was  one  of  the  first  Adirondack  hotels  to  offer 
bath-rooms  to  its  guests. 

It  was  finally  completed  and  opened  to  the  public  in  the 
summer  of  1880,  and  for  fifteen  years  enjoyed  a  quiet  but 
steady  popularity.  This  was  largely  due  to  the  personality 
of  the  owner,  who  made  it  play  an  important  part  in  the  enter- 


26  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIKONDACKS 

tainment  of  his  guests.  An  indefatigable  tramper  himself,  he 
opened  and  kept  open  over  fifty  miles  of  wood  trails,  diverg- 
ing from  the  lodge  to  the  many  points  of  scenic  beauty  in  the 
neighborhood.  He  believed,  moreover,  that  a  tramping- 
expedition  should  be  made  as  comfortable  as  possible  for  all 
concerned.  He  was  among  the  first  to  realize  that  the  charm 
of  unavoidable  hardships  is  not  increased  by  unnecessary 
ones,  and  he  was  most  successful  in  demonstrating  the  theory. 
His  tramping  and  camping  parties  were  always  provided 
with  dainty  food  and  the  best  of  bedding. 

His  companionship  and  leadership  on  the  trail  were  always 
eagerly  sought.  His  enthusiasm,  his  cheerfulness,  his  knowl- 
edge of  the  woods,  made  him  the  best  of  guides,  and  his  gift 
for  weaving  and  telling  a  tale  made  him  a  boon  companion. 
His  story-telling — which  extended  to  writing  and  publishing, 
and  often  took  the  form  of  verso — soon  became  an  institution 
and  tradition  of  the  lodge.  Special  evenings  were  set  apart 
for  it  and  the  out-of-door  stage  was  artistically  prepared 
around  a  huge  camp  fire.  On  these  occasions  the  minstrel 
would  appear  in  his  famous  suit  of  genuine  Indian  smoke- 
tanned  buckskin,  ornamented  with  gay  Mexican  beadwork. 

Mr.  Van  was  small  of  stature,  but  stocky  and  muscular,  and 
had  the  dogged  endurance  of  an  Indian.  He  wore  a  grizzly 
beard,  and  his  keen  eyes  were  shadowed  by  bushy  brows.  The 
eyes  reflected  a  general  gentleness  of  character,  but  could 
flash  with  the  fire  of  righteous  anger.  His  dress  was  the  ma- 
terial expression  of  his  outdooring  disposition.  Early  in  his 
Adirondack  career  he  had  originated  the  idea  of  wearing 
leather  clothing,  and  this  unusual  but  durable  attire  became 
distinctly  associated  with  his  person.  It  was  the  outcome  of 
his  constant  tramping  and  working  in  the  woods,  and  the  in- 
adequacy of  ordinary  clothing  to  withstand  rough  usage.  He 
had  a  dozen  leather  suits,  each  of  a  different  color.  One  of 
these  lasted  him  for  twenty  years.  Another  familiar  link 
with  his  appearance  was  a  beautiful  pet  saddle-horse  which 
he  used  for  making  his  almost  daily  trips  between  the  lodge 
and  Lake  Placid  tillage. 

After  losing  the  lodge  through  litigation  connected  with 
some  of  his  patents,  in  1895,  and  being  reinstated  as  manager 


ADIRONDACK  LODGE  27 

in  1900,  there  followed  three  happy  summers  there  for  him- 
self and  his  many  friends.  Then,  in  the  spring  of  1903,  came 
the  fearful  fires  that  destroyed  it.  No  one  who  was  living  in 
the  Adirondacks  at  the  time  will  ever  forget  the  dread  and 
suspense  of  those  days.  The  whole  woods  seemed  ablaze,  and 
there  were  actually  fires  in  every  section  of  them.  They 
started  during  a  long  drought,  and  continued  through  a  spell 
of  almost  windless  weather.  The  result  was  a  dense  pall  of 
smoke  that  settled  everywhere  and  obscured  the  outlook  a 
hundred  feet  away.  This,  continuing  from  day  to  day,  caused 
a  nerve-racking  uncertainty.  No  one  not  definitely  informed 
could  tell  where  the  fires  were,  which  way  they  were  creeping, 
or  when  they  might  flare  up  suddenly  near  camp  or  cabin.  It 
was  thus  that  they  stealthily  stormed  the  lodge. 

On  June  3d,  the  fatal  day,  there  was  no  one  there  but  a  gang 
of  workmen.  Mr.  Van  had  been  oif  camping  for  the  night  and 
scouting  for  danger.  lie  returned  home  in  the  belief  that 
none  was  near.  Hardly  had  he  entered  the  house,  however, 
when  a  telephone  call  for  help  came  from  South  Meadows,  a 
mile  away  to  the  east.  The  fires  were  there  and  headed  for 
the  lodge.  Horses  and  men  were  at  once  despatched  to  the 
rescue,  but  were  soon  forced  to  turn  back  before  rapidly  ad- 
vancing smoke  and  flames. 

Mr.  Van,  meanwhile,  had  mounted  his  seventy-foot  outlook 
tower,  and  tried  to  peer  over  the  smoke-smothered  tree-tops. 
He  could  just  see  the  flare  of  inevitable  doom  surging  do^\^l 
from  Mount  Jo.  He  was  being  hemmed  in  by  two  fires.  He 
saw  that  the  lodge  was  doomed  and  that  his  own  escape  was 
already  problematical.  He  called  to  his  men  to  help  him 
carry  down  his  large  telescope  and  place  it  in  a  boat,  which 
he  pushed  out  into  the  lake.  Then  he  threw  the  table  silver 
into  shallow  water.  Next  he  brought  out  the  unfinished  model 
of  his  ''Kemigraph"— his  latest  invention— and  placed  it  on 
a  rock  in  the  clearing.  Finally,  he  emptied  the  stable  of 
horses,  and  locked  the  doors.  These  things  done,  he  turned 
his  thoughts  to  escape. 

By  this  time  the  men  sent  to  South  Meadows  had  returned, 
and  Mr.  Van  started  with  them  all  on  the  trail  around  the 
lake  leading  to  the  Indian  Pass.    It  was  the  only  avenue  of 


28  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

retreat  left  open.  They  had  not  gone  far,  however,  when  one 
of  the  men — Frank  Williams,  the  caretaker — discovered  that 
Mr.  Van  had  disappeared.  Guessing  the  truth,  he  ran  back 
to  the  lodge  and  there  found  the  captain  determined  to  go 
down  with  his  ship.  It  w^as  a  foolish  bit  of  bravado,  if  you 
like,  and  directly  traceable,  no  doubt,  to  overstrung  nerves, 
but  showing  a  touching  depth  of  affection  for  a  place — and  a 
place  he  no  longer  owned  but  merely  loved. 

The  colloquy  that  followed  was  short.  Mr.  Van  drew  a  re- 
volver and  bid  Williams  begone.  The  latter  sat  dowm  and 
refused  to  budge  wdthout  his  employer.  This  restored  reason 
to  the  fanatic.  He  hastily  gathered  a  few  things  together  and 
consented  to  go.  The  two  men  started  on  a  run.  They  were 
none  too  soon.  The  flames  were  already  leaping  across  their 
path.  Mr.  Van's  condition  can  be  judged  from  the  fact  that 
a  red-hot  ember  embedded  itself  in  his  hand,  but  he  was  not 
aware  of  it  till  security  was  reached  and  relaxation  set  in. 

The  party  gained  the  borders  of  the  Indian  Pass  at  night- 
fall, and  rested  there  in  a  coign  of  safety.  The  darkness  was 
lined  with  a  lurid  silence.  Few,  if  any,  slept.  Suddenly, 
about  midnight,  the  nervous  watchers  heard  a  distant  crum- 
bling crash.  They  gazed  at  each  other  with  a  sure  surmise. 
They  knew  the  voice  and  read  the  message  right.  The  Adi- 
rondack Lodge  had  passed  into  the  Land  of  Things  that  Were. 


CHAPTER  XXXII 
KEENE  VALLEY 

TO  the  east  of  Lake  Placid  and  Adirondack  Lodge  lies  the 
beautiful  Keene  Valley,  one  of  the  earliest  localities  to 
be  permanently  settled  and  transiently  visited.  It  is  unique. 
There  is  nothing  like  it  anj^vhere  else  in  the  Adirondacks.  It 
is  a  Swiss-like  combination  of  broad  and  fertile  meadow-lands, 
surrounded  by  abruptly  rising  mountains.  Through  its  cen- 
ter, from  south  to  north,  gracefully  winds  the  East  Branch  of 
the  Ausable  River. 

Keene  Valley  lies  just  within  the  eastern  ''blue  line"  of  the 
park,  which  is  here  identical  with  the  eastern  boundary  of  the 
Town  of  Keene.  The  usual  confusion  of  names  is  not  lacking. 
The  valley  proper  has  an  extent  of  several  miles.  Within  it 
are  two  distinct  settlements.  Near  the  center  is  the  village  of 
Keene,  now  called  Keene  Center.  Five  miles  to  the  south  is  a 
larger  village  named  Keene  Valley,  formerly  known  as  Keene 
Flats. 

KEENE    CENTER 

The  earliest  settlement  in  the  present  village  of  Keene  Cen- 
ter was  in  1797,  when  a  man  named  Benjamin  Payne  settled 
there  with  his  wife.  He  came  from  Jay,  and  cleared  a  lumber 
road  from  that  place  to  his  lone  Keene  shanty.  Here,  it  is 
said,  the  first  white  child  in  the  valley,  Betsy  Payne,  was  born 
in  1798.     And  here  the  pioneer  of  this  section  died  in  1800. 

Soon  after  this  other  settlers  came  to  the  valley  and  spread 
themselves  over  the  land  between  the  two  present  villages. 
By  1823  their  number  was  sufficient  to  induce  an  optimist 
named  William  Wells  to  open  a  store  in  what  is  now  Keene 
Center.  Obviously  this  trading-venture  must  have  been  ex- 
tremely primitive,  but  it  antedated  by  many  years  any  other 
attempt  to  open  a  store  in  the  Adirondacks. 

In  the  same  year,  1823,  David  Graves  built  the  first  approxi- 

29 


30  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

mation  of  a  hotel  in  the  place — and  in  the  valley — and  was 
appointed  the  first  postmaster  of  the  first  post-office  in  the 
Adirondacks.  The  mail,  however,  came  and  went  but  twice  a 
week,  and  was  carried  on  horseback  to  and  from  Westport. 

The  original  Graves  Hotel  is  still  standing  at  the  cross- 
roads which  make  the  center  of  the  little  village  to-day.  Di- 
rectly in  front  of  it  billows  an  enormous  elm.  It  has  a  spread 
of  91  feet,  and  its  trunk  measures  21  Vo  feet  in  circumference. 
It  is  not  only  the  largest  elm  in  the  Adirondacks  but  it  attained 
its  great  size  within  the  lifetime  of  the  person  who  planted  it. 
Mrs.  Frank  Hull,  a  resident  of  Keene  Center,  says  the  tree 
was  planted  by  her  mother  Mary  Gay  and  another  little  girl 
Delia  Ann  Graves,  daughter  of  the  hotel-keeper,  while  the  two 
children  were  playing  together  in  front  of  the  old  hotel.  The 
Graves  girl  grew  up,  married,  and  went  West  to  live.  In  her 
later  life  she  was  told  of  the  wonderful  growth  of  her  tree,  and 
made  a  special  trip  to  her  old  home  in  order  to  see  it.  During 
this  visit  she  called  on  Mrs.  Hull,  the  daughter  of  the  playmate 
who  had  shared  in  the  planting. 

The  first  Graves  Hotel  appears  to  have  been  surprisingly 
well  patronized,  for  at  the  end  of  two  years  the  proprietor 
abandoned  the  old  one  and  built  a  larger  one  across  the  road 
from  it.  This  had  a  checkered  career  and  changed  hands 
frequently.  In  1850  it  was  sold  to  Arvilla  E.  Blood,  who,  with 
her  brothers,  ran  it  till  1866  and  then  sold  it  to  Willard  Bell.' 
The  Bloods  then  moved  to  Saranac  Lake  and  purchased  what 
is  now  the  Riverside  Inn.^  The  Keene  Center  hotel  was  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1883,  but  was  immediately  rebuilt.  It  is 
now  (1920)  a  cozy  little  tavern  called  ''Owl's  Head  Inn," 
oMmed  by  Wallace  Murray  and  run  by  William  Washburn. 
The  latter  is  a  direct  descendant  of  an  early  settler  on  Alstead 
Hill,  which  calls  for  a  word  of  notice  here.  This  was  the  once 
familiar  name  applied  to  the  long,  steep  rise  that  lifts  the  road 
from  the  valley  toward  the  Cascade  Lakes.  The  grueling  pull 
up  Alstead  Hill  was  the  dread  of  man  and  beast  in  coaching- 
days,  and  is  still  a  climb  that  commands  the  respect  of  avoid- 

1  Mr.  Bell  was  noted  for  vvearinji  a  "stovepipe"  hat  with  a  dome-shaped  top.     It 
earner]  for  him  the  nickname  of  "Bee  Hive  Bell." 

2  See  Chap.  XX,  "Saranac  Lake." 


KEENE  VALLEY  31 

ance  by  automobiles.    In  the  early  days,  however,  the  broad 
slopes  of  the  hillside  lured  many  of  the  pioneer  settlers. 

Though  it  had  the  first  hotel,  store,  and  post-office  in  the 
mountains,  Keene  Center  did  not  keep  the  promise  of  its 
precocity.  As  a  village  it  has  grown  scarcely  at  all  in  a  hun- 
dred years.i  Its  trinity  of  public  utilities  did  not  sprout.  It 
has  always  remained  a  gateway  to  the  beauties  beyond  it. 
Travelers  passed  it  by  in  order  to  reach  the  greater  scenic 
splendors  of  the  more  southern  valley.  Stoddard's  guide- 
book of  1879  has  nothing  to  say  of  Keene  Center,  but  it  devotes 
several  pages  to  the  larger  village  five  miles  below  it. 

KEENE    VALLEY    (tHE   VILLAGE) 

This  is  the  present  name  of  what  was  formerly  known  as 
Keene  Flats — a  less  confusing  and  more  appropriate  desig- 
nation. The  settlement  here  antedates  that  of  Keene  Center, 
for  the  records  at  Albany  show  that  "one  Pangborn  and  one 
Biddlecome  were  living  on  Lot  23,  Mallory's  Grant,"  in  1797. 
This  was  south  of  Prospect  Hill,  near  Dr.  Laight's  house. 

The  next  settler  appears  to  have  been  Otis  Estes,  who  set- 
tled on  the  present  Estes  Farm,  just  north  of  Prospect  Hill, 
in  1800.  The  present  house  on  this  old  farm  is  owned  by  the 
Rev.  Livingston  Taylor,  who  takes  great  pride  in  pointing  out 
one  part  of  it  as  a  relic  of  the  pioneer  structure.  This  stood 
originally  near  a  brook,  and  was  undermined  in  1837  by  a 
freshet.  Thereupon  the  neighbors  foregathered  with  twenty 
yoke  of  oxen  and  transported  the  house  to  the  present  site. 

In  1806  Smith  Holt,  while  visiting  his  father-in-law  in  West- 
port,  heard  of  the  rich  valley  along  the  Ausable  River,  and 
decided  to  try  his  fortune  there.  He  settled  south  of  the 
present  village,  and  east  of  what  is  now  called  Ogden  Bridge. 
He  had  a  large  family.  He  brought  four  boys  and  three  girls 
to  the  valley  with  him,  and  two  more  boys  and  one  girl  were 
born  there,  making  a  total  of  eight  cliildren.  The  father  died 
in  1814.  The  girls  all  married  and  moved  away.  The  boys 
also  went  away,  but  three  of  them  soon  returned  to  the  old 

1  I  recently  saw  the  following  item  in  a  local  paper:  "Keene  is  gottin9-  to  be  a 
regular  thriving  metropolis.  For  tlie  first  time  in  its  history  the  pretty  little 
village  is  to  have  sidewalks."     The  Daily  Item,  July  9,  1919. 


32  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

homestead  and  stayed  there  till  about  1856,  when  they  began 
buying  separate  farms.  Alvah  bought  at  the  entrance  to  the 
valley;  James,  near  John's  Brook;  and  Harvey,  a  mile  to  the 
north  of  him. 

Between  1806  and  1810  a  number  of  settlers  came  to  the 
valley,  among  them  Roderick  McKenzie  and  Aaron  and 
Phineas  Beede.  The  McKenzie  Farm  is  where  the  Ranney 
Cottages  now  stand.  The  Beedes  located  at  first  nearer 
Keene  Center  than  Keene  Valley.  Phineas  Beede  settled  just 
north  of  Norton  Cemetery,  on  what  is  now  the  Dudley  Farm, 
and  it  is  said  that  he  bought  **all  the  land  in  sight  for  thirty 
bushels  of  oats." 

Phineas  Beede  had  three  sons — Orrin,  Almon,  and  Allen — 
and  one  daughter  Alma.  Aaron  Beede  also  had  three  sons, 
Smith,  Eldward,  and  David.  Of  these  Smith  Beede  became 
most  widely  known  as  the  owner  of  what  is  now  St.  Hubert's 
Inn. 

Not  only  did  Keene  Valley  take  the  lead  in  stores  and  hotels, 
but  the  Town  of  Keene  organized  the  first  school  district  in 
the  Adirondacks.  A  complete  record  of  the  trustee  meetings 
has  been  preserved  from  the  year  1813,  although  there  is  evi- 
dence that  a  school  existed  prior  to  that  date.  On  July  6, 1913, 
the  one  hundredth  anniversary  of  the  first  recorded  meeting 
was  celebrated,  and  on  this  occasion  Mrs.  F.  M.  Scanlon,  libra- 
rian of  the  Keene  Valley  Library,  read  a  paper  entitled:  ''A 
Brief  History  of  School  District  No.  1  of  the  Town  of  Keene, 
from  1813  to  the  Present  Time."  This  article,  as  well  as  the 
rare  old  book  of  records,  was  graciously  loaned  to  me  by  Mrs. 
Scanlon,  to  whom,  moreover,  I  am  indebted  for  much  other 
material  and  valuable  help  in  connection  with  this  chapter. 

The  old  school  records  are  a  unique  and  interesting  com- 
pilation, and  afford  an  excellent  bird's-eye  view  of  the  gradual 
growth  of  this  once  secluded  community.  The  earlier  entries 
are  most  primitively  worded,  written,  and  spelled;  but  the 
later  ones  reflect  the  spread  of  the  educational  efforts  they 
briefly  record. 

The  original  School  District  does  not  appear  to  have  ex- 
tended beyond  Hull's  Falls,  as  no  names  of  those  living 


KEENE  VALLEY  33 

beyond  that  point  are  in  the  records.    It  is  noticeable  that  the 
name  Beede  is  not  mentioned  in  them  at  all. 

The  first  school  trustees  were  Jonathan  Graves,  Joseph 
Bruce,  and  Otis  Estes;  but  just  where  the  first  school  was  held 
can  no  longer  be  determined.  The  first  hint  of  location  is 
given  in  the  following  entry,  which  is  quoted  in  full  as  a  fair 
sample  of  them  all : 

Nov.  16,  1815 

This  day  School  District  No  1  met  and 

voted  1        Otis  Estes  moderator 

voted  2        to  keep  school  three  months  this  winter  in  Joseph  Bnices 

house  by  putting  in  one  window, 
voted  3         to  git  one  forth  of  a  cord  of  wood  for  each  skoller  that 

is  sent  to  school  this  winter 
voted  4        that  if  any  one  neglected  to  git  his  wood  he  should  pa  the 

sum  of  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  pur  cord 
voted  5        to  disolve  this  meeting 

In  1817  Luther  Walker  received  $1.25  for  the  use  of  his 
room  for  the  winter. 

In  1818  it  was  voted  to  build  a  school-house,  but  this  was 
not  completed  till  1820.  It  measured  twenty  by  twenty-four 
feet  and  stood  in  the  field  now  owned  by  B.  B.  Estes,  nearly 
opposite  Charles  Barton's  house.  It  was  to  be  "big  enuf  for 
forty  siters." 

In  1825  we  get  the  first  approximation  of  the  teacher's 
salary.  It  was  voted  "to  pay  three  dollars  in  money  and  the 
rest  in  iron  and  grane  at  the  given  price  when  the  school  is 
out." 

In  1826  we  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  a  widening  horizon. 
It  is  voted  "that  a  tax  he  raised  to  pay  for  a  Book  to  keep 
School  district  Records  therein." 

The  trustees  have  now  thrown  economy  to  the  winds,  and 
have  inaugurated  a  veritable  orgy  of  taxation.  In  1828  we 
are  confronted  by  the  following  resolution:  "that  we  raise  by 
tax  three  dollars  and  ten  cents  to  repair  the  schoolhouse." 
Imagine  the  dilapidation  that  $3.10  would  repair  after  eight 
years  of  use ! 


34  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

By  1833  there  were  thirty-seven  pupils  attending  the  school, 
and  the  budget  amounted  to  $19.46. 

By  1838  the  attendance  had  overrun  the  * 'forty  siters" 
mark,  and  had  jumped  to  forty-six.  Congestion  had  begun. 
By  1850,  therefore,  it  was  found  necessary  to  build  a  larger 
school-house.  This  was  erected  on  Harvey  Holt's  lot,  next 
to  Norman  Dibble's  south  line.  It  cost  $238  and  Orson 
Phelps  was  the  carpenter.  It  was  not  painted,  however,  till 
1882,  when  it  received  a  coat  of  the  usual  red  color,  and  be- 
came known  as  the  ** Little  Red  School-house."  It  is  still 
standing  on  the  Keene  Valley  Country  Club  grounds  and  is 
used  as  a  locker  and  tool-house.  Over  the  entrance  is  a  panel 
with  the  following  inscription : 

This  building  was  erected  for  a 
District  School  Hoiis»e  in  1850  and  was 
framed  by  Orson  S.  Phelps.     Divine  Worship 
was  for  many  years  held  here  by 
Thomas  Watson,   Pastor. 
Horace  Bushnell 
James   B.   Shaw 
Noah  Porter 
William  H.  Hodge 
Joseph  H.  Twichell 
William  L.  Kingsley. 

In  1887  a  third  building  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $1,400 
and  a  branch  school  was  built  near  St.  Hubert's  Inn,  which  is 
still  used  to-day. 

In  1910  the  present  main  school-house  was  built  at  a  cost  of 
$11,000,  and  this  completes  a  brief  survey  of  the  oldest  school 
district  in  the  mountains,  which  may  be  tabulated  as  follows : 


School- 
house 

Built 

Used 

Cost 

Sold  for 

1st 

1820 

30  years 

$168. 

$     4.75 

2d 

1850 

37      " 

238. 

63.00 

3d 

1887 

23      " 

1,400. 

400.00 

4th 

1910  (to  1920) 

10     " 

11,000. 

100  years 

That  the  school  had  a  library  at  some  early  date  is  attested 
by  the  following  unusual  entry  on  a  separate  and  undated 
page  of  the  records : 


KEENE  VALLEY  35 

Amount  of  fines  for  damages  done  to  School  Library  Dist.  No.  1. 
G.  T.  Bruce     for  one  grease  spot  0.06 

Orin  Dibble      "     "        "         "  0.10 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  first  school-house  sold  for 
a  trifle  less  than  five  dollars.  This  illustrates  nicely  the  value 
of  pennies  in  the  community  even  as  late  as  1850.  The  man 
who  drove  what  would  now  seem  a  very  close  bargain,  was 
David  Hale,  whose  son  LeGrand  Hale  is  still  Uving  in  the 
valley.  The  father,  in  the  very  early  days,  lived  for  a  time 
at  the  outlet  of  Lower  Ausable  Lake,  where  he  had  a  saw- 
mill. His  particular  claim  to  distinction  here,  however,  is  the 
fact  that  he  once  o^v^led  what  is  now  the  smallest  parcel  of 
State  land  in  the  Adirondacks.  It  is  a  lot,  containing  exactly 
one  acre,  on  Styles  Brook  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  Town 
of  Keene.  It  is  Lot  128  of  Henry's  Survey,  and  is  shown  on 
the  large  Conservation  Commission  map  by  a  pinhead  of  red 
touching  the  ''blue  line."  David  Hale  lumbered  the  tiny, 
isolated  lot,  and  then  allowed  it  to  revert  to  the  State  for 
taxes. 

Biddlecome,  who  has  been  mentioned  as  one  of  the  earliest 
settlers,  left  his  impress  on  the  community  by  cutting  and 
smoothing  out  a  trail  from  Keene  Valley  through  South 
Meadows  to  North  Elba.  This  old  trail  is  shown  on  the  Geo- 
logical Survey  maps.  It  follows  Slide  Brook  to  the  South 
Meadows  Brook,  and  comes  out  near  Adirondack  Lodge,  al- 
though it  seems  probable  that  originally  it  came  out  nearer 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  for  it  became  the  highway  between 
that  spot  and  Keene  Valley.  A  horse  and  wagon  could  get 
through  in  summer,  jumpers  were  pulled  over  it  in  winter, 
and  riders  on  horseback  went  over  it  at  all  times.  It  was 
used  as  a  bridle-path  as  late  as  1840,  for  Mrs.  Scanlon  told 
me  of  an  old  lady  living  in  Vermont,  who  often  told  of  her 
OAvn  experience  in  that  year.  It  was  one  of  much  cold  and 
rain,  and  food  was  very  scarce.  The  old  lady — then  a  young 
married  woman  living  in  North  Elba — told  how,  in  the  ab- 
sence of  her  husband,  her  supplies  became  exhausted.  As  a 
last  resource  she  managed  to  collect  a  small  bag  of  corn.  She 
then  saddled  a  horse,  put  the  bag  and  her  small  child  in  front 


36  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

of  her,  and  rode  all  the  way  to  Westport  over  the  Biddlecome 
Road  to  get  the  corn  ground  into  meal.  She  forded  the  An- 
sable  River  at  a  point  a  little  south  of  Biddlecome 's  house, 
which  would  seem  to  indicate  that  the  trail  came  out  there. 

This  Biddlecome  Road  was  soon  given  a  more  pictur- 
esque name.  It  was  in  spots,  of  course,  exceedingly  narrow 
and  rough,  and  some  traveler,  after  coming  over  it,  remarked 
that  he  had  gotten  through,  but  that  *'it  was  tight  nipping." 
This  at  once  became  a  designation  for  the  road  or  its  worst 
parts,  and  for  many  years  people  spoke  of  coming  or  going 
''through  Tight-Nipping."  Whereby  hangs  another  story— 
for  it  was  in  "Tight-Nipping"  that  the  famous  "Allen's  Bear 
Fight  up  in  Keene"  took  place. 

Anson  H.  Allen,  the  hero  of  the  tale,  was  a  printer  and  pub- 
lisher born  in  1806.  He  started  several  papers  in  different 
places,  and  finally  settled  in  Keeseville  and  began  publishing 
a  paper  called  "The  Old  Settler,"  after  which  he  was  popu- 
larly known  as  "Old  Settler  Allen."  In  1840  he  was  ap- 
pointed to  take  the  census  of  Essex  County.  This  he  did  in 
person,  making  a  house-to-house  canvass.  While  traveling  to 
North  Elba  from  Keene  Valley,  in  the  wildest  part  of  the 
"Tight-Nipping"  road,  he  was  attacked  by  a  huge  she-bear. 
A  long  and  fierce  struggle  ensued,  but  the  census-taker  finally 
came  off  victor.  Thereafter,  of  course,  he  delighted  to  re- 
count the  adventure,  which  lost  nothing  in  picturesqueness  by 
his  constant  retelling.  It  spread  like  a  saga  through  the 
countr>"-side,  and  was  taken  as  a  theme  by  two  creative  artists. 
One  made  an  oil-painting  of  the  titanic  struggle,  which  a  few 
years  ago  was  in  the  possession  of  the  hero's  son  Frederick 
P.  Allen  of  Troy.  I  have  seen  a  small  photograph  of  this 
painting,  which  gives  the  impression  that  its  artistic  merit  is 
subordinate  to  its  historical  interest. 

The  other  creative  impulse  resulted  in  a  poem  entitled: 
"Allen's  Bear  Fight  up  in  Keene."  It  was  penned  by  some 
inglorious  Milton  whose  name  I  have  not  been  able  to  dis- 
cover. The  poem  itself,  however,  enjoyed  a  remarkable  popu- 
larity throughout  the  Adirondack  region.  It  is  still  remem- 
bered and  quoted  by  those  who  delight  to  reminisce.  It  runs 
as  follows: 


KEENE  VALLEY  37 


ALLEN'S  BEAR  FIGHT  UP  IN  KEENE 

Of  all  the  wonders  of  the  day, 
There  's  one  that  I  can  safely  say 
Will  stand  upon  the  rolls  of  fame, 
To  let  all  know  bold  Allen's  name. 
The  greatest  fight  that  e'er  was  seen, 
Was  Allen's  bear  fight  up  in  Keene. 

In  1S40,  as  I  've  heard. 
To  take  the  census  off  he  steered. 
Through  bush  and  wood  for  little  gain, 
He  walked  from  Keene  to  Abrani'a  plain; 
But  naught  of  this — it  is  not  well 
His  secret  motives  thus  to  tell. 

As  through  the  wood  he  trudged  his  way, 
His  mind  unruffled  as  the  day, 
He  heard  a  deep  convulsive  sound, 
Which  shook  the  earth  and  trees  around, 
And  looking  up  with  dread  amaze. 
An  old  she-bear  there  met  his  gaze. 

The  bear  with  threatening  aspect  stood, 
To  prove  her  title  to  the  wood. 
This  Allen  saw  with  darkening  frown, 
He  reached  and  pulled  a  young  tree  down, 
Then  on  his  guard,  with  cautious  care, 
He  watched  the  movements  of  the  bear. 

Against  the  rock  with  giant  strength, 
He  held  her  out  at  his  arm's  length. 
Oh,  God!   he  cried  in  deep  despair. 
If  you  don't  help  me,  don't  help  the  bear. 
'T  was  rough  and  tumble,  tit  for  tat, 
The  nut  cakes  fell  from  Allen's  hat. 

Then  from  his  pocket  forth  he  drew, 
A  large  jack-knife  for  her  to  view. 
He  raised  his  arm  high  in  the  air, 
And  butcher-like,  he  killed  the  bear. 

Let  old  men  talk  of  courage  bold, 
Of  battles  fought  in  days  of  old, 
Ten  times  as  bad,  but  none  I  ween, 
Can  match  a  bear  fight  up  in  Keene.i 

1  There  is  a  striking  similarity  between  this  old  poem  and  a  recent  popular  song 
entitled  '"The  Preacher  and  the  Bear."  The  latter  was  brought  out  by  the  Victor 
Company  as  record  No.  17221, 


38  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

The  village  of  Keene  Valley  soon  became  a  distinctive  cen- 
ter for  painters,  and  was  the  only  spot  in  the  Adirondacks 
where  they  congregated  in  numbers.  At  one  time  as  many  as 
twenty-one  were  living  and  working  there.  The  one  who  be- 
came most  lastingly  associated  with  the  place  and  attracted 
many  of  the  others  to  it,  was  R.  M.  Shurtleff,  who  made  it  his 
summer  home  for  over  forty  years.  His  widow  still  spends 
her  summers  there,  and  through  her  kindness  I  have  had 
placed  at  my  disposal  an  autobiographical  sketch  which  Mr. 
Shurtleff  was  fortunately  induced  to  write  shortly  before  his 
sudden  death  in  1915.  It  contains  not  only  the  stirring  events 
of  his  early  life,  but  many  later  ones  that  have  historical 
value  for  these  pages. 

Eoswell  Morse  Shurtleff  was  born  at  Rindge,  N.  H.,  in  1839. 
He  entered  Dartmouth  College,  but  did  not  graduate;  partly 
because  he  was  too  fond  of  drawing  caricatures,  and  partly 
because  he  found  he  could  not  study  art  there.  After  leaving 
he  roamed  around  for  a  while,  trying  his  hand  at  different 
trades — machine-drafting,  architecture,  drawing  on  stone,  and 
making  water-color  sketches.  He  spent  a  year  or  two  in  Bos- 
ton, drawing  on  wood  for  a  living,  and  attending  evening  art 
classes  at  the  Lowell  Institute.  In  1860  lie  went  to  New  York 
and  did  illustrating  for  ''Leslie's  Weekly,"  while  continuing 
his  art  studies  at  the  School  of  Design.  His  work  caught  the 
attention  of  P.  T.  Barnum,  for  w^hom  he  subsequently  made 
many  posters  and  pictorial  advertisements. 

When  the  Civil  War  broke  out  he  was  among  the  first  to 
enlist,  joining  the  99th  New  York  Volunteers.  He  was  ap- 
pointed adjutant  to  Colonel  Bartlett,  with  the  rank  of  Lieu- 
tenant. In  July,  1861,  while  out  with  a  scouting  party,  he  was 
wounded  and  taken  prisoner.  The  next  eight  months  were 
spent  in  Southern  hospitals  and  prisons,  and  then  he  was  re- 
leased on  parole.  On  his  way  home  to  visit  his  mother  in 
Winchendon,  Conn.,  he  met  his  future  wife  Miss  Clara  Halli- 
day,  to  whom  he  was  ultimately  married  on  June  14,  1867. 

After  this  visit  he  was  called  to  New  York  to  take  charge  of 
all  New  York  State  paroled  prisoners.  He  was  released  of 
this  command  only  shortly  before  the  end  of  the  war,  and  he 
then  took  a  position  with  the  ''Illustrated  News,"    In  1868 


KEENE  VALLEY  39 

he  went  to  Hartford  to  do  some  work  for  a  publisher,  and  re- 
mained there  for  two  years.  On  his  return  to  New  York  he 
began  painting  in  oils,  doing  animals  at  first  and  later  land- 
scapes. This  was  the  beginning  of  his  career  as  a  picture- 
painter. 

It  led  to  notable  results.  His  work  ranks  to-day  among  the 
best  by  American  artists.  It  is  honest,  straightforward  paint- 
ing, free  from  all  faddism,  full  of  fine  feeling  and  dreamy 
delicacy.  He  became  distinctively,  and  almost  exclusively,  a 
painter  of  the  Adirondacks.  He  studied  them  lovingly  for 
forty  years,  and  caught  their  moods  and  mysteries  as  no  one 
else  has  done.  One  of  his  pictures  is  in  the  Metropolitan 
Museum  of  New  York,  several  are  in  the  Corcoran  Art  Gal- 
lery of  Washington,  and  many  are  in  other  public  and  private 
collections. 

Two  incidents  of  Mr.  Shurtleff's  war  experiences  are  of 
such  general  interest  as  to  deserve  mention  here.  He  was  the 
first  Union  ofificer  to  be  wounded  and  captured,  and  he  carried 
the  first  flag  to  be  taken  by  the  Confederates.  It  was  ulti- 
mately returned  to  him  by  his  captor  Colonel  Sandidge,  with 
whom  he  became  the  best  of  friends.  It  is  a  small  flag  about 
two  feet  wide  and  four  feet  long,  and  still  shows  the  blood- 
stains from  Lieutenant  Shurtleff's  w^ound. 

His  other  contribution  to  Civil  AVar  history  hinges  on  the 
probability  that,  unintentionally,  he  designed  the  Confederate 
flag.  How  this  came  about  had  best  he  told  in  his  own  words. 
It  happened  while  he  was  in  the  hospital  at  Richmond. 

I  read  in  the  Richmond  papers  of  mistal<es  made  in  the  Bull  Run 
fight  through  their  having  no  battle  flag;  on  several  occasions  having 
fired  on  their  own  men.  This  led  me  to  designing  a  flag,  and  my 
sketch  book  was  filled  with  various  suggestions  for  such  an  emblem. 
It  was  done  solely  for  my  own  amusement,  with  never  a  thought  that 
anyone  else  w^ould  ever  be  interested  in  it.  But  one  design  took  the 
eye  of  the  surgeon,  who  asked  me  to  make  a  copy  of  it  in  color,  that 
he  would  like  to  send  it  to  a  little  girl.  I  readily  complied,  and  was 
much  snrprised  a  few  weeks  later  when  he  told  me  that  the  little  girl 
for  whom  he  wanted  it  was  the  daughter  of  General  Beauregard,  and 
that  the  General  had  had  a  flag  made  like  it,  and  had  used  it  in  a 
recent  battle ;  and  that  he  thought  I  might  be  sent  home  as  a  reward. 


40  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

Whether  this  was  the  origin  of  the  Confederate  flag  or  not,  I  do  not 
know,  but  from  my  recollection,  I  think  my  design  was  the  same  as 
that  afterwards  adopted — the  "Southern  Cross"  with  seven  stars. 
The  color  was  a  red  ground,  with  blue  cross  and  white  stars. 

Mr.  Shurtleff 's  first  visit  to  the  Adirondacks  was  in  August 
of  1858.  A  desire  to  see  these  wonderful  mountains  had  been 
awakened  by  reading  about  them  in  Hammond's  "Hills, 
Lakes,  and  Forest  Streams."  The  opportunity  came  by  mer- 
est chance.  In  the  hotel  where  he  was  staying  at  the  time,  he 
met  a  Harvard  graduate  who  said  he  was  going  to  the  Adiron- 
dacks to  write  a  book  about  them.  This  gentleman  offered  to 
take  young  ShurtletT  along  and  pay  his  expenses,  as  well  as 
the  cost  of  making  some  illustrations  for  the  proposed  volume. 
The  offer  was  enthusiastically  accepted. 

The  promoter  of  the  scheme  turned  out  to  be  a  rascal,  who 
was  seeking  the  tall  timber  for  seclusion  instead  of  literature. 
After  borrowing  all  of  his  victim's  money,  he  decamped  one 
night  and  left  him  strapped  and  stranded  in  the  woods.  Mr. 
Shurtleff,  however,  who  always  made  friends  wherever  he 
went,  managed  to  turn  the  adventure  into  a  pleasant  and 
profitable  one.  Out  of  it  grew  his  lifelong  love  of  the  moun- 
tains and  a  very  practical  knowledge  of  woodcraft. 

He  made  his  headquarters  at  Keese's  Mill,  then  as  now  a 
small  lumbering-hamlet  at  the  head  of  the  St.  Regis  River, 
near  Paul  Smith's.  It  consisted  of  half  a  dozen  shanties  and 
one  comfortable  house,  in  which  lived  Tom  O'Neil,  who  was 
manager  of  the  mill.  Here  Mr.  Shurtleff  boarded.  He  calls 
O'Neil  one  of  nature's  noblemen,  both  in  heart  and  physique. 
The  host's  favorite  after-dinner  relaxation  was  to  take  the 
rim  of  a  barrel  or  the  back  of  a  chair  between  his  teeth,  and 
lift  either  to  a  horizontal  position.  It  made  his  jaws  feel 
good,  he  said. 

Mr.  Shurtleff  camped  both  on  St.  Regis  Lake  and  Follans- 
bee  Pond.  On  the  latter  he  used  a  ''birch  bark  covered  camp 
that  had  just  been  vacated  by  a  party  of  Harvard  professors, 
including  Agassiz."  This  was,  of  course,  the  Philosophers* 
Camp.  He  also  speaks  of  finding  in  the  outlet  of  Follansbee, 
a  stream  some  two  miles  long,  more  than  thirty  beaver  dams 
over  which  the  boat  had  to  be  dragged.    Many  years  later 


KEENE  VALLEY  41 

while  glancing  over  William  C.  Prime's  '*I  Go  A-Fishing,"  he 
chanced  on  the  author's  description  of  his  first  trip  up  the 
FoUansbee  outlet  in  1860,  and  the  remark  that  there  had  been 
a  great  number  of  beaver  dams,  but  that  some  one  had  partly 
destroyed  them.  Mr.  Shurtleff  wrote  on  the  margin :  ' '  I  did 
it  with  my  little  axe." 

On  this  trip  he  met  A.  F.  Tait  the  artist,  who  was  camping 

on  Bay  Pond,  and  who  was  one  of  the  earliest  painters  of 

Adirondack  scenes.     Mr.  Tait  was  very  friendly,  and  offered 

to  further  in  any  way  he  could  Mr.  Shurtleff 's  desire  to  be- 

.  come  an  artist. 

Shurtleff 's  next  visit  to  the  woods  was  nine  years  later,  in 
the  summer  of  1867.  He  and  some  friends  returned  to  his  old 
haunts  at  Keese's  Mill  and  St.  Regis  Lake.  He  found  that 
changes  had  crept  in  everywhere.  Paul  Smith's  had  begun  to 
be  a  fashionable  hotel,  and  the  adjacent  streams  no  longer 
yielded  the  quick-filled  creels  of  the  early  days.  The  summer 
vacationist  was  beginning  to  be  ubiquitous. 

In  1868  he  took  up  his  residence  in  Hartford,  and  there  saw 
the  forest  pictures  of  John  Fitch.  These  were  mostly  scenes 
around  Keene  Valley,  and  they  so  appealed  to  Mr.  Shurtleff 
that  he  decided  to  go  there.  He  was  accompanied  by  Dwight 
Tryon,  the  artist,  who  had  just  begun  painting,  though  still 
holding  a  commercial  position  as  bookkeeper.  The  first, 
early  morning  glimpse  of  Keene  Valley  made  a  deep  impres- 
sion on  Mr.  Shurtleff.  It  became  his  favorite  Adirondack 
nook,  and  ultimately  his  summer  home.  He  stopped  at  first 
at  Crawford's,  where  he  began  painting  from  nature  and  pro- 
ducing some  of  the  canvases  that  were  to  make  him  famous. 

In  the  summer  of  1869,  A.  H.  Wyant,  urged  by  Mr.  Shurtleff, 
came  to  the  valley,  liked  it,  and  did  much  painting  there.  He 
became  so  fond  of  it  that,  in  1875,  he  bought  a  tract  of  land 
and  erected  a  small  studio-house.  The  following  summer  he 
suggested  that  the  Shurtleffs  should  share  his  new  home. 
This  they  did,  but  for  one  season  only,  as  the  accommodations 
proved  a  little  too  cramped  for  comfort.  The  next  year  they 
returned  to  Crawford's,  and  continued  to  go  there  until  they 
built  a  home  of  their  own.  This  came  about  quite  unexpect- 
edly. 


42  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

Going  to  a  favorite  spot  to  paint,  one  day,  Mr.  Shurtleff 
found  choppers  at  work  and  a  fire  started  in  the  woods.  In- 
quiring the  reason  of  Mr.  Dibble,  the  o^vner  of  the  land  and  of 
the  Tahawus  House,  he  learned  that  a  beautiful  bit  of  primeval 
forest  just  back  of  the  hotel  was  to  be  burned  over  for  a  sheep 
pasture.  As  sentimental  arguments  proved  of  no  avail  as  a 
means  of  dissuasion,  Mr.  Shurtleff  was  led  to  inquire  how 
much  the  land  was  worth.  He  was  informed  that  it  had  very 
little  value  in  the  owner's  eyes,  and  could  be  bought  for  a 
mere  song.  Mr.  Shurtleff  made  an  offer  for  twenty  acres 
around  the  doomed  spot,  on  condition  that  the  fires  be  put  out 
at  once.  The  offer  was  accepted,  and  Mr.  Shurtleff  became  a 
very  sudden  landholder  in  Keene  Valley.  Soon  after,  about 
1882,  he  bought  a  larger  tract  of  160  acres,  lying  to  the  south 
and  west  of  the  original  one.  It  was  a  timely  purchase,  for 
the  increasing  popularity  of  the  valley  soon  sent  land  prices 
soaring.  From  a  dollar  an  acre  they  crept  gradually  into  the 
hundreds. 

It  was  not  till  1885  that  Mr.  Shurtleff  felt  able  to  build  on 
his  new  possessions.  He  and  his  wife  drew  their  own  plans, 
and  then  had  them  put  into  working  shape  by  an  architect 
friend.  They  were  the  first  set  of  plans  ever  used  in  the 
valley,  and  Crawford,  who  took  the  building-contract,  was 
emphatic  in  his  hope  that  they  would  be  the  last.  He  declared 
them  to  be  the  ''damndest  confusionest  things"  he  had  ever 
seen. 

A  house  resulted,  however,  and  a  very  cozy  and  comfortable 
one.  Its  unique  feature  is  a  large  studio,  A\dth  northern  light 
and  an  open  fireplace.  The  walls  are  twenty  feet  high,  and  the 
ceiling  is  domed  in  with  a  huge  Japanese  umbrella  sixteen  feet 
in  diameter — one  of  the  largest  ever  imported  into  this  coun- 
try. The  building  stands  on  a  little  plateau  of  land  a  hundred 
feet  or  so  above  the  valley.  It  is  opposite  Spread  Eagle 
Mountain  and  the  Giant,  and  commands  a  panoramic  view  of 
the  adjacent  ridges.  Just  back  of  the  house  is  the  slope  of  a 
densely  wooded  hillside,  and  on  the  edge  of  these  woods  is  a 
huge,  towering  boulder  of  imposing  grandeur.  Mr.  Shurtleff 
always  knew  that  this  was  very  large  and  very  beautiful,  but, 


KEENE  VALLEY  4;'> 

until  some  geologists  visited  the  spot,  he  did  not  know  that  he 
probably  owned  the  biggest  boulder  in  the  country. 

According  to  i\rr.  Shurtleff,  John  Fitch  was  the  first  profes- 
sional painter  to  discover  Keene  Valley  and  transfer  its  beau- 
ties to  canvas.  As  early  as  1852,  however,  an  amateur  artist 
named  Perkins  had  strayed  into  the  valley  and  been  captivated 
by  its  charms.  He  found  a  home  at  the  Bruce  farm  (later 
** Dibble's"),  where  he  stayed  for  eighteen  months,  paying  a 
dollar  and  a  half  a  week  for  board  and  lodging ! 

William  Hart  was  another  early  arrival  in  the  valley.  A. 
H.  Wyant  has  been  mentioned.  Among  those  who  came  later 
were:  James  and  George  Smillie,  Samuel  Coleman,  Words- 
worth Thompson,  Arthur  and  Ernest  Parton,  Carleton  Wig- 
gins, George  McCord,  A.  H.  Hekking,  Edward  Gay,  Winslow 
Homer,  J.  C.  Trotman,  Gedney  Bunce,  Robert  Miner,  Alden 
Weir,  Alpheus  Cole,  Joseph  Boston,  Robert  Van  Boskorck, 
Miss  Piatt,  and  George  C.  Parker,  who  resides  permanently 
in  the  valley. 

Alden  Weir  bought  and  built  on  land  adjoining  Mr.  Shurt- 
leff's.  The  Smillies  and  Wyant  were  the  only  others  to  build 
homes  for  themselves.  All  of  these  artists  did  more  or  less 
work  in  the  valley,  but  none  of  them  linked  it  to  their  later 
fame  as  did  Mr.  Shurtleff.  He  made  it  the  rock  on  which  he 
built;  the  others  used  it  merely  as  a  stepping-stone. 

For  several  years  the  summer  visitors  were  almost  exclu- 
sively these  artists  and  their  friends.  The  landscape  on  a 
pleasant  day  would  be  widely  dotted  with  white  umbrellas, 
looking  like  large  toadstools  that  had  growm  up  over  night. 
As  these  painters  sent  their  pictures  to  the  exhibitions,  they 
began  to  attract  the  attention  of  people  of  wealth,  who  were 
thereby  lured  into  the  valley.  Among  the  first  of  this  class 
were  the  Ranneys  of  New  Jersey.  Miss  Nancy  Ranney,  the 
aunt  of  those  now  in  the  valley,  bought  the  McKenzie  farm  in 
1865,  in  partnership  with  Dr.  Normand  Smith  and  John  Fitch. 
The  agreement  w^as  that  none  of  them  should  marry — but 
Cupid  was  quick  to  call  the  bluff.  The  two  men  soon  resigned 
from  the  club,  and  Miss  Ranney  bought  out  their  interest. 
After  her  death  the  house  was  sold  to  D.  M.  Walbridge,  and 


44  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

then  to  Miss  Fannie  Falk  of  New  York,  who  tore  down  the  old 
building  and  put  up  the  fine  new  one  that  stands  on  the  site  to- 
day. Near  it  is  a  house  built  by  Timothy  Ranney  in  1873, 
and  now  occupied  by  the  family. 

Mrs.  Timothy  Ranney  at  one  time  wrote  down  some  of  her 
memories  of  Keene  Valley  when  she  first  came  to  it  in  1864. 
I  have  been  allowed  to  see  this  paper  and  to  cull  some  in- 
teresting facts  from  its  pages. 

In  1856  the  valley  had  suffered  severely  from  freshets 
caused  by  heavy  rains  and  by  the  bursting  of  the  dam  on 
Lower  Ausable  Lake,  where  David  Hale  had  his  sawmill.  The 
fences  and  bridges  carried  away  at  this  time  had  not  been 
replaced  in  1864,  and  the  cattle  roamed  at  will  where  fancy 
led  them.  From  Holt's  Corners  to  Beede's  only  ten  houses 
could  be  counted.  Two  were  painted  red,  two  white;  while 
the  rest  retained  their  native  ** wood-color."  There  was  no 
store,  post-office,  or  church  in  the  place.  The  mail  came  from 
Keene  Center  twice  a  week  and  religious  services  were  held  in 
the  little  red  school-house.^ 

The  Ranneys  all  boarded  for  a  while  with  Joseph  Bruce, 
whose  house  had  once  accommodated  the  early  school.  They 
paid  three  dollars  and  a  half  a  week.  They  had  plenty  of 
vegetables,  but  tasted  meat  only  when  a  native  ** critter"  was 
killed.  Maple  sugar  was  the  only  sweetener  used  for  cook- 
ing or  drinking  purposes.  Life  in  the  valley,  in  short,  was 
divorced  from  everything  that  smacked  of  luxury — excepting 
for  the  eyes. 

Others  who  came  about  this  time  were  the  Misses  Dunham 
and  Miss  Libby  Hammersley,  both  of  Hartford,  Conn.  The 
Dunhams  bought  the  old  Spooner  place,  which  had  been  built 
around  1800,  and  which  they  never  greatly  altered.  The  old 
house  is  now  owned  and  occupied,  in  the  summer,  by  a  niece  of 
the  Dunhams.^ 

1  There  was,  however,  a  church  organization  (Congregational)  in  the  Town  as 
early  as  IS'28,  and  the  Methodists  organized  in  1833. 

-  The  present  Keene  Valley  Library  traces  back  to  Miss  Sarah  Dunham.  About 
1880  she  gave  $200  for  the  nucleus  of  a  circulating  library.  In  1890  the  Rev. 
J.  M.  Perry  organized  a  public  library,  which  was  housed  over  B.  B.  Estes's  store. 
In  1895  Miss  Dunham  gave  $800  toward  a  building-fund.  This  was  increased  by 
entertainments  to  $1,500,  and  the  present  structure  was  erected  in  1896. 


KEENE  VALLEY  45 

In  1875  John  Matthews  of  New  York  built  a  unique  and 
costly  bungalow  on  the  old  Baxter  Farm,  north  of  the  village. 
He  called  his  new  home  ''Brook  Knoll  Lodge."  The  outside 
was  of  shaggy  cedar  logs,  with  many  gables,  balconies,  and 
dormer-windows.  The  inside  was  finished  in  native  and  im- 
ported woods,  and  elegantly  furnished.  It  was  by  far  the 
most  pretentious  and  beautiful  residence  that  had  been  built 
in  the  valley. 

Dr.  Normand  Smith,  previously  mentioned,  was  brought  in 
by  John  Fitch.  The  young  doctor  took  such  a  fancy  to  the 
place  that  he  tried  to  induce  his  father,  a  man  of  large  means, 
to  buy  the  entire  valley.  The  father  demurred,  but  after  his 
death  his  son  bought  large  tracts  of  land  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  and  undoubtedly  saved  much  of  the  forest  from  the 
lumberman's  ax. 

Dr.  Smith  was  for  years  a  prominent  and  popular  figure  in 
the  valley,  and  his  death  was  mourned  by  every  one.  His 
former  home,  though  near  the  village,  is  hidden  by  the  Nott- 
man  Hill.  It  is  a  feature  of  the  valley  that  most  of  the  private 
residences  are  more  or  less  obscured  from  view.  They  are 
built  along  the  rising  ground  among  the  wooded  hills  and 
knolls  on  each  side,  and  only  a  bit  of  gable  or  a  chimney  peeps 
out  here  and  there. 

Besides  the  artist  colony  a  number  of  eminent  professional 
men  made  Keene  Valley  their  summer  home.  Among  these 
were:  Dr.  Noah  Porter  of  Yale,  and  Professor  George  P. 
Fischer;  Professor  William  James  of  Harvard,  and  Professor 
Fiske  of  Cornell;  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  Dean  Sage,  Dr. 
Felix  Adler,  his  brother  Isaac,  and  their  brother-in-law.  Dr. 
Sachs ;  Dr.  Charles  Laight,  Dr.  William  Pennington,  the  Rev. 
William  H.  Hodge  of  Philadelphia,  the  Rev.  James  B.  Shaw 
of  Rochester,  the  Rev.  Horace  Bushnell,  the  Rev.  Joseph  H. 
Twichell  of  Hartford,  and  the  Rev.  William  L.  Kingsley. 

This  is  rather  an  impressive  roster  of  distinguished  names, 
and  it  is  notable  that  nearly  all  of  the  men  achieved  an  unusual 
degree  of  popularity  among  the  people  of  their  summer  home. 
Several  of  them,  indeed,  were  specialists  in  good-fellowship. 
Dr.  Porter  was  not  the  least  of  these,  and  his  memory  is  kept 
green  by  a  mountain  that  still  bears  his  name.    One  of  the 


46  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

higher  near-by  peaks,  lying  northwest  of  the  valley  toward 
the  Cascade  Lakes,  had  from  time  immemorial  been  called 
West  Mountain.  After  the  President  of  Yale  had  been  coming 
to  the  valley  for  four  or  five  years,  about  1875,  some  one  sug- 
gested that  West  Mountain  be  changed  to  Porter  Mountain. 
It  was  done  by  unanimous  consent  and  the  most  surprising  co- 
operation. Usually  there  is  nothing  more  difficult  than  to  in- 
duce people  to  call  a  familiar  landmark  by  a  new  name,  but 
in  this  case  even  habit  seemed  to  offer  no  resistance  to  the 
change.  So  Porter  Mountain  looms  to-day  as  a  memorial 
monument  to  the  man  whom  all  Keene  Valley  delighted  to 
honor. 

The  doctor  had  a  deep  love  for  this  part  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks.  His  favorite  lake  was  the  Upper  Ausable,  and  when 
his  waning  strength  warned  him  that  he  had  camped  upon  its 
shores  for  the  last  time,  he  asked  his  guide,  Melville  Trum- 
bull, to  roM^  him  around  it  on  a  farewell  tour.  Pausing  here 
and  there  to  glimpse  some  well-loved  vista,  the  doctor  sat  in 
silent  contemplation,  while  the  tears  welled  in  his  eyes.  The 
old  guide  said  it  was  the  saddest  thing  he  ever  saw. 

Dr.  Bushnell  was  another  great  favorite  in  the  valley,  and 
his  name  is  still  linked  with  a  lovely  spot  beside  it.  Way 
up  John's  Brook,  near  the  slopes  of  Marcy,  are  some  pic- 
turesque falls  that  are  knowTi  to-day  as  Bushnell  Falls.  They 
were  a  favorite  haunt  of  the  good  doctor,  and  the  guides  named 
them  in  his  honor.  He,  like  Dr.  Porter,  was  an  indefatigable 
tramper  of  the  woods,  although  he  was  an  invalid  and  finally 
succumbed  to  tuberculosis. 

Dr.  Twichell,  the  third  of  this  notable  triumvirate,  did  not 
leave  his  name  in  the  woods,^  but  he  left  a  memory  very  dear 
to  all  who  knew  him.  And  who  in  Keene  Valley  did  not  know 
''Chaplain  Joe,"  of  Sickle's  71st,  with  his  jovial  face  and 
much-resounding  laugh!  Who,  of  the  men,  did  not  wait  for 
him  after  a  Sunday  sorv^ice,  to  stroll  into  the  woods  and  swap 
a  war-time  story  in  the  protective  smoke  of  peaceful  pipes! 

It  has  been  said  that  Keene  Valley  was  formerly  called 

1  Tliere  is  a  Twitchell  Lake  near  Big  Moose,  in  the  Brown's  Tract  section.  It  is 
sometimes  supposed  to  ho  named  for  Dr.  Twicliell,  but  it  was  named  for  a  guide 
who  spelt  his  name  with  a  "t." 


KEENE  VALLEY  47 

Keene  Flats,  and  Mr.  Shurtleff*  thinks  that  the  name  originated 
with  Orson  Phelps.  It  was  suggested  by  the  various  plateaus 
on  each  side  of  the  valley,  formed,  the  geologists  say,  when 
the  latter  was  the  bed  of  a  great  lake. 

In  speaking  of  the  unmarred  beauty  of  the  spot  in  1870, 
Mr.  Shurtleff  says : 

After  leaving  the  main  road  at  the  foot  of  "Spruce  Hill,"  and 
following  the  narrow  grass-grown  driveway  up  the  valley,  and  ford- 
ing the  river  near  the  Shaw  place,  only  two  or  three  small  farmhouses 
were  in  sight  until  one  reached  John's  Brook;  from  there  and  on  to 
the  end  of  the  valley,  and  the  road  at  Beede's,  there  were  but  five  or 
six  houses,  and  some  of  them  merely  log-cabhis. 

The  road  followed  the  course  of  the  river ;  scarcely  any  fences  were 
seen,  and,  with  the  open  fields  on  one  side,  and  glimpses  of  the  river 
and  the  cloud-touched  mountains  through  the  trees,  it  was  like  a  beau- 
tiful park ! 

The  few  inhabitants  were  hospitable  and  kindly.  It  was  a  very 
paradise  for  sportsmen.  In  the  fall  of  the  year  every  hill-top  had  its 
deer  yard,  and  it  was  a  very  common  occurrence  for  the  farmers  to 
find  two  or  three  deer  in  company  with  their  cows  in  the  stable  yard 
when  they  went  out  for  the  morning  milking.  The  river  and  the 
brooks  were  alive  with  trout.  For  several  years  T  could  fill  my  basket 
and  provide  a  breakfast  for  twenty  people  in  an  hour's  fishing. 

Among  the  odd  characters  in  the  valley  was  an  old  man 
known  to  every  one  as  * '  Father  Kent. ' '  Ho  was  tall,  lean,  and 
angular.  His  nose  was  broken  and  his  lower  eyelids  drooped. 
He  was  deaf,  but  a  regular  attendant  at  church  in  the  lit- 
tle school-house.  He  thus  qualified  his  moral  standing: 
*'Mr.  Estes  is  the  piousest  man  in  Keene  Flats,  but  I  enj'y  the 
most  religion."  On  weeks  days  he  would  visit  up  and  dowm 
the  valley.  While  making  a  call  he  always  whittled  at  a  short 
birch  stick.  On  taking  leave  he  would  hand  the  stick,  with  its 
little  bunch  of  attached  shavings — like  a  wooden  bouquet — to 
the  housewife,  for  her  morning  fire.  It  is  reported  of  this 
same  Father  Kent  that  in  his  early  years  he  threatened  to 
publicly  accuse  of  witchcraft  an  erratic  and  unfriendly  neigh- 
bor. I  have  not  been  able  to  discover  either  the  exact  cause 
of  the  threat  or  the  name  of  the  offending  lady,  but  the  gen- 
oral  fact  is  remembered  by  several  old  residents.    If  authen- 


48  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

tic,  it  is  the  only  intimation  of  witchcraft  I  have  ever  heard 
connected  with  the  Adirondacks. 

The  growing  popularity  of  Keene  Valley  naturally  caused 
many  boarding-places  and  small  hotels  to  be  opened.  Among 
the  earliest  and  most  popular  were  ''Dibble's"  (later  the 
TahawTis  House,  which  burned  in  1908),  Munroe  Holt's  Spread 
Eagle  Cottage,  and  "Crawford's."  These  three  places  were 
all  near  the  center  of  the  village,  others  wore  scattered  along 
the  road  in  both  directions.  To  the  north  was  "  Washbond's," 
and  the  Estes  House ;  to  the  south  was  the  Maple  Grove  Moun- 
tain House,  run  by  Henry  Washbond ;  and  about  a  mile  farther 
off,  on  the  rising  ground  at  the  head  of  the  valley  and  near 
Wy ant's  studio,  was  ''Hull's,"  run  by  Otis  H.  Hull. 

At  the  head  of  the  valley  were  the  two  famous  Beede  places. 
One  of  them  is  now  St.  Hubert's  Inn,  to  which  the  site  of  the 
other  belongs.  The  smaller  tavern  was  one  built  by  Phineas 
Beede  about  1877.  It  stood  at  the  fork  of  the  roads,  where 
Roaring  Brook  joins  the  Ausable  River.  Soon  after  it  was 
built  Phineas  Beede  died,  and  his  widow  and  daughter  ran 
the  place.  This  caused  it  to  be  called  the  "Widow  Beede 's," 
a  designation  which  stuck  to  it  for  many  years  and  through 
several  changes,  despite  the  fact  that  it  was  really  run  and 
managed  by  the  daughter  and  not  by  the  widow. 

This  daughter  Alma  Beede  married  R.  R.  Stetson,  and  she 
and  her  husband  continued  to  run  the  hotel,  advertising  it  un- 
der the  high-sounding  name  of  the  "Astor  House."  Stetson 
died  after  a  few  years,  and  later  his  widow  married  a  Mr. 
Finney,  and  the  hotel  was  sometimes  given  his  name,  but  lo- 
cally it  was  nearly  always  called  the  "Widow  Beede 's."  It 
was  torn  down  years  ago,  and  a  modern  building  belonging 
to  the  Ausable  Club  now  occupies  the  site. 

ST.  Hubert's  inn 

In  1858  Smith  Beede  bought  600  acres  of  land,  for  which  he 
paid  the  unusual  price  of  2,000  bushels  of  wheat.  The  pur- 
chase included  the  wonderful  bit  of  tableland  on  the  trail  to  the 
Ausable  Lakes.  Here,  on  a  site  of  unsurpassed  wildness  and 
beauty,  in  1876,  he  erected  a  hotel  that  bore  his  name  and 
became  known  far  and  wide  as  "  Beede 's."    The  original 


KEENE  VALLEY  49 

structure  was  one  hundred  and  five  feet  long  and  three  stories 
high.  After  ten  years  of  overcrowded  success  the  house  was 
considerably  enlarged,  but  still  failed  to  meet  the  measure  of 
its  popularity.  The  Alp-like  beauty  of  the  spot,  combined 
with  its  nearness  to  the  twin  Ausable  Lakes,  made  it  a  moun- 
tain Mecca. 

Smith  Beede's  eldest  son  Orlando  was  associated  with  him 
in  the  hotel,  and  gradually  superseded  his  father  in  the  cares 
of  management.  Smith  Beede  died  in  1891,  at  the  age  of 
seventy-two.  Orlando  still  survives  1920,  and  now  owns 
and  runs  the  Keene  Valley  Inn,  lying  in  the  very  center  of  the 
village.     This  was  originally  Blinn's  Hotel,  built  in  1882. 

Orlando  and  his  father  sold  the  Beede  House  and  land  to 
the  Adirondack  Mountain  Reserve  Club  in  1890.  Just  before 
the  deed  passed,  in  March  of  the  same  year,  the  hotel  burned 
down.  Not  knowing  how  this  might  affect  the  deal,  the 
Beedes  began  to  rebuild  at  once.  The  club  wanted  the  land 
more  than  the  building,  however,  so  the  matter  was  adjusted 
and  the  sale  went  through.  The  new  owners  completed  the 
work  of  reconstruction,  and  called  the  new  house  **St.  Hu- 
bert's Inn,"  which  name  it  still  bears. 

St.  Hubert  was  a  patron  saint  of  hunted  deer.  In  his  youth 
he  was  a  wild  and  reckless  scion  of  nobility,  who  offended  the 
proprieties  by  hunting  on  fast  and  holy  days.  One  Good 
Friday,  when  he  was  beating  the  woods  for  game,  a  beautiful 
stag  suddenly  rose  before  him  with  a  crucifix  shining  brightly 
between  its  antlers.  The  astounded  young  man  then  heard  a 
voice  reprimanding  the  ruthless  hunter  and  preaching  com- 
passion for  the  hunted.  He  was  frightened  into  conversion  on 
the  spot,  and  became  so  ardent  a  game  protector  that  he  was 
ultimately  sainted — something  which,  it  is  needless  to  point 
out,  has  never  happened  to  any  of  his  apostolic  succession. 

The  inn,  therefore,  is  most  appropriately  named,  for  it  is 
the  headquarters  of  a  club  which  makes  the  protection  of  game 
and  the  surrounding  forest  its  special  care.  The  name  of  the 
organization  is  now  the  Ausable  Lake  and  Mountain  Club, 
controlling  the  Adirondack  Mountain  Reserve.  The  latter 
was  incorporated  in  1887,  and  owtis  all  of  Township  48,  Tot- 
ten  and  Crossfield's  Purchase.     This  contains  28,000  acres 


50  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

and  holds  the  Upper  and  Lower  Ausable  Lakes.  The  public  is 
still  admitted  to  them  under  certain  restrictions,  however,  and 
also  to  the  inn. 

THE   GLENMORE    SUMMER   SCHOOL 

This  was  another  and  the  most  notable  instance  of  the  lure 
of  Keene  Valley  for  the  intellectual.  Glenmore  was  a  moun- 
tain farm  of  166  acres  on  East  Hill,  the  western  slope  of 
Mount  Hurricane.  It  lay  over  a  thousand  feet  above  the 
valley,  about  two  miles  north  of  Kecne  Center,  and  com- 
manded a  glorious  view.  Starting  in  the  original  farm-house, 
the  school  gradually  erected  a  dozen  or  more  detached  build- 
ings. 

It  was  founded  in  1889  by  Professor  Thomas  Davidson, 
known  among  intellectuals  as  "the  wandering  scholar,"  and 
ranked  by  one  of  them  ^  with  the  twelve  most  learned  men  in 
the  world.  His  learning  was  indeed  prodigious.  He  spoke 
the  leading  dead  and  living  languages  with  equal  facility,  and 
had  read  every  classic  work  in  all  of  them.  He  had,  moreover, 
a  marvelously  retentive  memorA%  and  could  quote  chapter  and 
verse  for  any  theory  he  defended  or  attacked.  But  he  car- 
ried his  great  knowledge  lightly  and  imparted  it  modestly. 
He  was  considered  at  his  best  when  discoursing  informally 
to  a  few  sympathetic  listeners,  lingering  over  a  finished  meal 
or  gathered  in  a  woodland  stoppinir-place.  At  such  times  his 
conversation  overflowed  with  a  bubbling,  unconscious  erudi- 
tion, and  left  behind  it  the  impress  of  contagious  enthusiasm. 
He  was  a  born  disliker  of  the  formal,  and  essentially  a  rover 
both  in  thought  and  action.  He  did  not  seek  to  bequeath  the 
world  a  system  of  his  own,  but  rather  to  point  out  all  that 
was  best  in  the  existing  systems. 

There  was  nothing  of  the  pedant  either  in  his  manner  or 
appearance.  He  was  rather  a  large,  stout,  healthy-looking 
man,  with  a  kindly,  rounded  face  that  bosnoke  a  cultured 
geniality  of  disposition.  Besides  superficial  charm  of  per- 
sonality, he  had  the  deeper  something  we  call  magnetism. 
He  was  liked  as  much  as  comrade  and  companion  as  he  was 
reverenced  as  a  teacher. 

1  William  Clarke  in  The  Spectator. 


KEENE  VALLEY  51 

He  was  born  in  an  obscure  Scottish  hamlet  in  1840.  He 
attended  a  very  good  parochial  school  where  his  remarkable 
gifts  soon  made  him  a  teacher  as  well  as  a  scholar.  At  six- 
teen years  of  age  he  w^on  a  competitive  scholarship  at  the 
University  of  Aberdeen  from  which,  after  winning  several 
others,  he  was  graduated  with  honors  in  18G0.  Then  began  his 
unusual  career  of  peripatetic  teaching,  with  interludes  of 
travel  all  over  Europe.  He  went  everywhere,  but  stayed 
nowhere.  Finally  he  crossed  the  ocean  into  Canada,  then 
crossed  the  border  into  the  United  States,  and  ultimately 
drifted  into  Keene  Valley.  Here  he  found  the  ideal  location 
for  the  dream  of  a  lifetime.  Here  he  stayed  longer  than  he 
had  ever  stayed  in  any  other  place  before,  and  here  in  1900 
he  died  and  was  buried.^ 

The  general  scheme  of  the  Glenmore  School  can  best  be 
given  by  quoting  from  the  founder's  prospectus: 

The  aim  of  the  school,  therefore,  will  be  twofold — (1)  scientific, 
(2)  practical.  The  former  it  will  seek  to  reacli  by  means  of  lectures 
on  the  general  outlines  of  the  history  and  theory  of  the  various  cul- 
ture sciences,  and  by  classes,  conversations,  and  carefully  directed  pri- 
vate study  in  regard  to  their  details.  The  latter  it  will  endeavor  to 
realize  by  encouraging  its  members  to  conduct  their  life  in  accordance 
with  the  highest  ascertainable  ethical  laws,  to  strive  after  "plain 
living  and  high  thinking,"  to  discipline  themselves  in  simplicity, 
kindliness,  thoughtfulness,  helpfulness,  regularity,  and  promptness. 

In  the  life  at  Glenmore  an  endeavor  will  be  made  to  combine  solid 
study  and  serious  conversation  with  reinvigorating  rest  and  abundant 
and  delightful  exercise.  It  is  hoped  that  this  may  become  a  place  of 
annual  gathering  for  open-minded  persons  interested  in  the  serious 
things  of  life.  .  .  .  The  retirement  and  quiet  of  Glenmore  seem  espe- 
cially favorable  for  such  things,  and  the  numerous  picnics  and  eve- 
ning bonfires  in  the  woods  offer  provision  for  the  lighter  moods.  .  .  . 
Every  meal  at  Glenmore  will  be  opened  by  a  few  minutes'  reading. 

The  school  traced  back  to  the  Concord  School  of  Philosophy, 
in  which  Professor  Davidson  had  a  formative  share,  and 
which  he  attempted  to  duplicate  at  Farmington,  Conn.,  before 

1  Tliose  wisliin?  for  more  details  than  can  be  piven  here,  will  find  them  in 
Mrniorials  of  Thomas  Davidson,  by  William  Knight.  Ginn  and  Company,  Boston 
and  London.     1907. 


52  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

moving  to  the  Adirondacks.  Glenmore  was,  therefore,  but  the 
final  and  more  permanent  housing  of  these  tentative  begin- 
nings. They,  in  turn,  were  the  outgrowth  of  societies  which  he 
had  founded  both  here  and  abroad,  and  which  he  called  the 
"Fellowship  of  the  New  Life,"  for  the  idea  of  fellowship — 
the  essential  brotherhood  of  man — was  basic  to  all  his  efforts. 
He  hoped  that  Glenmore  would  in  time  cease  to  be  a  prepara- 
tory school  and  would  develop  into  a  perpetual  and  inde- 
pendent colony  of  the  elect. 

In  this  he  was  disappointed,  but  the  school  itself  lasted 
longer  than  such  Utopian  ventures  usually  do,  and  to  that  ex- 
tent must  be  accounted  a  success.  The  attendance  was  actu- 
ally small  but  comparatively  large.  Shredded  Greek  for 
breakfast  is  obviously  not  for  the  many,  and  only  the  chosen 
few  can  express  their  lighter  moods  around  the  camp  fire  by 
discussing  Kant^s  "Pure  Reason,"  or  Aristotle's  "Ni<}0- 
machean  Ethics." 

But  there  is  no  doubt  that  these  few  carried  away  the  last- 
ing impress  of  an  uplifting  experience,  dominated  by  the  per- 
sonality of  a  remarkable  man.  No  sincerer  pathfinder  ever 
blazed  the  upland  trails  of  thought  than  he  who  taught  among 
the  groves  of  Glenmore.  If  his  message  was  too  intellectual 
for  the  masses,  it  was  still  intended  to  benefit  them  ultimately. 
Nor  did  he  hold  himself  aloof  from  personal  efforts  to  up- 
lift them.  The  last  two  winters  of  his  life  were  devoted  to 
what  he  called  the  "Breadwinners'  College,"  a  settlement 
for  Russian  Jews  on  the  East  Side  of  New  York. 

After  his  death  in  1900,  two  of  his  disciples,  Professor 
C.  M.  Bakewell  of  Yale,  and  Stephen  F.  Weston,  Dean  of  An- 
tioch  College,  attempted  to  carry  on  the  Glenmore  School. 
But  it  depended  too  much  on  the  personality  of  its  lost  leader 
to  thrive  without  him.  Disintegration  set  in,  and  the  school 
was  closed.  It  passed  into  other  hands  and  was  reopened 
as  a  summer  boarding-place. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 
OLD  MOUNTAIN  PHELPS 

OESON  SCHOFIELD  PHELPS,  guide  and  philosopher, 
belonged  to  Keene  Valley  and  Charles  Dudley  Warner. 
He  lived  in  the  shade  of  the  one,  and  in  the  light  of  the 
other.  He  was  not  a  great  guide.  Indeed,  many  did  not 
consider  him  even  a  good  one.  He  delighted  in  showing  the 
way  but  not  in  preparing  the  camp.  His  neighbors  openly 
rated  him  as  both  lazy  and  shiftless,  and  of  no  genius  could  it 
more  truly  be  said  that  he  was  not  a  hero  to  his  valley.  He 
went  hunting  or  fishing  as  a  housewife  goes  to  market.  What 
he  lacked  in  sporting  zest,  however,  was  offset  by  a  love  of 
nature  and  a  poetic  cast  of  thought  that  made  him  a  favorite 
with  some  of  the  most  intellectual  men  of  his  day. 

He  was  born  in  Wethersfield,  Vt.,  on  May  6,  1817.  About 
1830  he  came  into  the  Schroon  Lake  country  with  his  father, 
who  was  a  surveyor.  The  elder  Phelps  had  to  trace  out  some 
old  lot  lines,  and  Ms  boy  helped  him.  Their  work  gave  them 
a  glimpse  of  some  of  the  higher  mountains,  and  Orson  con- 
ceived a  youthful  but  abiding  love  for  them.  He  returned 
home  with  his  father,  but  only  to  wait  for  an  opportunity  of 
coming  back  to  the  wilderness.  He  made  it  a  year  or  two 
later  by  finding  employment  at  the  Adirondack  Iron  Works. 
He  stayed  there  till  Mr.  Henderson's  death.  Then  he  turned 
from  a  commercial  career  to  the  more  congenial  freedom  of 
an  outdoor  life.  He  wandered  over  to  Keene  Valley  and  set- 
tled there  permanently.  He  married  a  native  maiden  by  the 
name  of  Melinda  Lamb,  who  developed  oddities  of  tempera- 
ment and  tricks  of  speech  that  matched  well  with  those  of 
her  more  conspicuous  spouse.  She  never  fell  under  the  charm 
of  Mr.  Warner's  pen,  however,  and  so  remained  in  the  penum- 
bra of  the  literary  lime-light  that  was  focused  on  her  hus- 
band. 

After  his  marriage,  Phelps  built  a  little  home  for  himself 

53 


54  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

and  wife  in  a  cozy  nook  near  Prospect  Hill,  a  little  off  the 
main  road.  Near  the  house  is  a  bubbling  stream  and  some 
pretty  falls,  to  which  Phelps's  name  has  been  attached.  In 
this  spot  he  lived  and  died.  His  hobby,  which  developed  into 
a  remunerative  specialty,  was  climbing  mountains.  This  ex- 
clusiveness  led  to  his  being  called  ''Old  Mountain  Phelps" — 
a  name  in  which  he  took  both  pride  and  pleasure.  When 
asked  to  lead  the  way  up  some  unfamiliar  trail,  he  would 
often  say:  ''So  you  want  Old  Mountain  Phelps  to  show  you 
the  way,  do  you?    Well,  I  callerlate  he  kin  do  it." 

His  favorite  mountain  was  Marcy,  and  he  boasted  of  hav- 
ing climbed  it  over  a  hundred  times.  In  1849  he  blazed  the 
first  trail  to  its  summit  from  the  east,  going  in  from  Lower 
Ausable  Lake  and  then  passing  Haystack  and  the  head  of 
Panther  Gorge.  Later  he  cut  what  was  known  as  the  Bartlett 
Mountain  trail.  About  1850  he  guided  two  ladies  over  it  to 
the  summit  of  Marcy.  They  were  the  first  women  to  make 
the  complete  ascent,  and  the  feat  of  getting  them  safely  to 
the  top  and  back  gave  Phelps  his  first  local  renown.^ 

Old  Phelps,  like  Dr.  Johnson,  owes  the  lasting  and  intimate 
quality  of  his  fame  to  a  clever  biographer.  In  the  "Atlantic" 
for  May,  1878,  Charles  Dudley  Warner  published  an  essay  en- 
titled "The  Primitive  Man,"  ^  introducing  a  new  discovery  to 
the  world — an  unwashed  Thoreau  of  guidedom.  As  a  re- 
sult Old  Phelps  awoke  one  morning  to  find  himself  famous. 
He  inquired  into  the  cause,  read  it,  and  liked  it.  Thereafter 
he  devoted  himself,  too  obviously  at  times,  to  living  up  to  the 
literary  halo  in  which  he  had  been  most  unexpectedly  lassoed. 
It  was  a  big  halo  and  it  got  around  his  feet  and  tripped  him 
up  now  and  then,  so  that  disappointed  pilgrims  returned  from 
his  shrine  to  accuse  Warner  of  having  raised  exaggerated 

1  In  tliis  connection  it  is  of  interest  to  note  that  when  Mr.  Lossing,  the  his- 
torian, made  an  ascent  of  Marcy  from  the  west,  about  1860,  he  was  accompanied 
by  his  wife.  In  speaking  of  the  hardships  of  the  climb  for  a  lady,  he  says:  "Mrs. 
Lossing,  we  were  afterwards  informed  by  the  oldest  hunter  and  guide  in  all  that 
region  (John  Cheney),  is  only  the  third  woman  who  has  ever  accomplished  the 
difficult  feat."  (See  Lossing's  The  Hudson,  p.  30.)  This  would  look  as  if  Cheney 
knew  of  Phelps's  two  ladies,  but  had  heard  of  no  others  attempting  the  climb  in 
the  interval. 

2  This  will  be  found,  slightly  revised,  under  the  caption  "A  Character  Study," 
in  the  Backlog  Edition  of  his  works,  Vol.  VI. 


OLD  MOUNTAIN  PHELPS  55 

hopes.  The  deception,  such  as  it  was,  however,  was  certainly 
not  intentional.  The  writer  says  nothing  that  is  not  essen- 
tially true,  but  he  says  it  with  such  grace  and  charm  of  phrase 
that  we  forget  that  a  squeaky  voice,  the  reluctance  to  use  soap, 
and  allied  oddities  may  be  less  alluring  in  actual  contact  than 
in  the  pages  of  a  book.  This,  it  seems  to  me,  is  the  most  seri- 
ous charge  that  can  be  brought  against  Mr.  Warner's  inimi- 
table description  of  his  primitive  man.     He  says : 

You  might  be  misled  by  the  shaggy  suggestion  of  Old  Phelps's  given 
name — Orson — into  the  notion  that  he  was  a  mighty  hunter,  with  the 
-fierce  spirit  of  the  Berserkers  in  his  veins.  Nothing  could  be  farther 
from  the  truth.  The  hirsute  and  grisly  sound  of  Orson  expresses  only 
his  entire  affinity  with  the  untamed  and  the  natural,  an  uncouth  but 
gentle  passion  for  the  freedom  and  wildness  of  the  forest.  Orson 
Phelps  has  only  those  unconventional  and  humorous  qualities  of  the 
bear  which  make  the  animal  so  beloved  in  literature;  and  one  does  not 
think  of  Old  Phelps  so  much  as  a  lover  of  nature, — to  use  the  senti- 
mental slang  of  the  period, — as  a  part  of  nature  itself. 

His  appearance  at  the  time  when  as  a  "guide"  he  began  to  come 
into  public  notice  fostered  this  impression, — a  sturdy  figure,  with 
long  body  and  short  legs,  clad  in  a  woolen  shirt  and  butternut-colored 
trousers  repaired  to  the  point  of  picturesqueness,  his  head  surmounted 
by  a  limp,  light-brown  felt  hat,  frayed  away  at  the  top,  so  that  his 
yellowish  hair  grew  out  of  it  like  some  nameless  fern  out  of  a  pot. 
His  tawny  hair  was  long  and  tangled,  matted  now  many  years  past 
the  possibility  of  being  entered  by  a  comb.  His  features  were  small 
and  delicate,  and  set  in  the  frame  of  a  reddish  beard,  the  ra^or  having 
mowed  away  a  clearing  about  the  sensitive  mouth,  which  was  not 
seldom  wreathed  Mith  a  childlike  and  charming  smile.  Out  of  this 
hirsute  environment  looked  the  small  gray  eyes,  set  near  together ;  eyes 
keen  to  observe,  and  quick  to  express  change  of  thought ;  eyes  that 
made  you  believe  instinct  can  grow  into  philosophic  judgment.  His 
feet  and  hands  were  of  aristocratic  smallness,  although  the  latter  were 
not  worn  away  by  ablutions;  in  fact,  they  assisted  his  toilet  to  give 
you  the  impression  that  here  w^as  a  man  who  had  just  come  out  of  the 
ground, — a  real  son  of  the  soil,  whose  appearance  was  partially  ex- 
plained by  his  humorous  relation  to  soap.  "Soap  is  a  thing,"  he 
said,  "that  I  hain't  no  kinder  use  for."  His  clothes  seemed  to  have 
been  put  on  him  once  for  all,  like  the  bark  of  a  tree,  a  long  time  ago. 
The  observant  stranger  was  sure  to  be  puzzled  by  the  contrast  of  this 
realistic  and  uncouth  exterior  with  the  internal  fineness,  amounting  to 


56  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

refinement  and  culture,  that  shone  through  it  all.  What  communion 
had  supplied  the  place  of  our  artificial  breeding  to  this  man? 

Perhaps  his  most  characteristic  attitude  was  sitting  on  a  log,  with 
a  short  pipe  in  his  mouth.  If  ever  man  was  formed  to  sit  on  a  log,  it 
was  Old  Phelps.  He  was  essentially  a  contemplative  person.  Walk- 
ing on  a  countiy  road,  or  anywhere  in  the  "open,"  was  irksome  to 
him.  He  had  a  shambling,  loose-jointed  gait,  not  unlike  that  of  the 
bear:  his  short  legs  bowed  out,  as  if  they  had  been  more  in  the  habit 
of  climbing  trees  than  of  walking.  On  land,  if  we  may  use  that  ex- 
pression, he  was  something  like  a  sailor ;  but,  once  in  the  rugged  trail 
or  the  unmarked  route  of  his  native  forest,  he  was  a  different  person, 
and  few  pedestrians  could  compete  with  him.  The  vulgar  estimate  of 
his  contemporaries,  that  reckoned  Old  Phelps  "lazy,"  was  simply  a 
failure  to  comprehend  the  condition  of  his  being.  It  is  the  unjustness 
of  civilization  that  it  sets  up  uniform  and  artificial  standards  for  all 
persons.  The  primitive  man  suffers  by  them  much  as  the  contempla- 
tive philosopher  does,  when  one  happens  to  arrive  in  this  busy,  fussy 
world. 

If  the  appearance  of  Old  Phelps  attracts  attention,  his  voice,  when 
first  heard,  invariably  startles  the  listener.  A  small,  high-pitched, 
half-querulous  voice,  it  easily  rises  into  the  shrillest  falsetto;  and  it 
has  a  quality  in  it  that  makes  it  audible  in  all  the  tempests  of  the 
forest,  or  the  roar  of  the  rapids,  like  the  piping  of  a  boatswain's 
whistle  at  sea  in  a  gale.  He  has  a  way  of  letting  it  rise  as  his  sentence 
goes  on,  or  when  he  is  opposed  in  argument,  or  wishes  to  mount  above 
other  voices  in  the  conversation,  until  it  dominates  everything.  Heard 
in  the  depths  of  the  woods,  quavering  aloft,  it  is  felt  to  be  as  much  a 
part  of  nature,  an  original  force,  as  the  northwest  wind  or  the  .scream 
of  the  hen-hawk.  When  he  is  pottering  about  the  camp-fire,  trying  to 
light  his  pipe  with  a  twig  held  in  the  flame,  he  is  apt  to  begin  some 
philosophical  observation  in  a  small,  slow,  stumbling  voice,  which 
seems  about  to  end  in  defeat ;  when  he  puts  on  some  unsuspected  force, 
and  the  sentence  ends  in  an  insistent  shriek.  Horace  Greeley  had 
such  a  voice,  and  could  regulate  it  in  the  same  manner.  But  Phelps's 
voice  is  not  seldom  plaintive,  as  if  touched  by  the  dreamy  sadness  of 
the  woods  themselves. 

When  Old  Mountain  Phelps  was  discovered,  he  was,  as  the  reader 
has  already  guessed,  not  understood  by  his  contemporaries.  His 
neighbors,  farmers  in  the  secluded  valley,  had  many  of  them  grown 
thrifty  and  prosperous,  cultivating  the  fertile  meadows,  and  vigor- 
ously attacking  the  timbered  mountains;  while  Phelps,  with  not  much 
more  faculty  of  acquiring  property  than  the  roaming  deer,  had  pur- 


■OLD    MOUXTAIX"    PHELPS 


OLD  MOUNTAIN  PHELPS  57 

sued  the  even  tenor  of  the  life  in  the  forest  on  which  he  set  out. 
They  would  have  been  surprised  to  be  told  that  Old  Phelps  owned 
more  of  what  makes  the  value  of  the  Adirondacks  than  all  of  them 
put  together,  but  it  was  true.  This  woodsman,  this  trapper,  this 
hunter,  this  fisherman,  this  sitter  on  a  log,  and  philosopher,  was  the 
real  proprietor  of  the  region  over  which  he  was  ready  to  guide  the 
stranger.  It  is  true  that  he  had  not  a  monopoly  of  its  geography  or 
its  topography  (though  his  knowledge  was  superior  in  these  respects)  ; 
there  were  other  trappers,  and  more  deadly  hunters,  and  as  intrepid 
guides:  but  Old  Phelps  was  the  discoverer  of  the  beauties  and  sub- 
limities of  the  mountains;  and,  when  city  strangers  broke  into  the 
region,  he  monopolized  the  appreciation  of  these  delights  and  wonders 
of  nature.  I  suppose  that  in  all  that  country  he  alone  had  noticed  the 
sunsets,  and  observed  the  delightful  processes  of  the  seasons,  taken 
pleasure  in  the  woods  for  themselves,  and  climbed  mountains  solely 
for  the  sake  of  the  prospect.  He  alone  understood  what  was  meant 
by  "scenery."  In  the  eyes  of  his  neighbors,  who  did  not  know  that 
he  was  a  poet  and  a  philosopher,  I  dare  say  he  appeared  to  be  a  slack 
provider,  a  rather  shiftless  trapper  and  fisherman ;  and  his  passionate 
love  of  the  forest  and  the  mountains,  if  it  was  noticed,  was  accounted 
to  him  for  idleness. 

He  was  prone  to  nickname  the  natural  wonders  that  he  loved 
best.  Mount  Marcy  he  always  called  "Mercy."  He  held  it 
to  be  the  stateliest  peak,  commanding  the  finest  view  in  the 
world.  People  would  sometimes  speak  of  the  Alps  or  the 
Himalayas  as  having  mountainous  merit.  But  such  idle  talk 
annoyed  him,  and  he  would  squelch  it  with  a  sneer.  "I  caller- 
late  you  hain't  never  been  atop  o'  Mercy,"  he  would  say,  and 
turn  away  in  disgust.  His  own  joy  in  standing  there  he  ex- 
pressed as  a  feeling  of  ''heaven  up-h'isted-ness." 

Loath  as  he  was  to  hear  his  favorite  ''Mercy"  disparaged, 
he  was  very  careful  about  overpraising  it  or  any  of  his  pet 
\iews.  He  seemed  to  sense  the  value  of  surprise  in  the  reve- 
lation of  natural  beauties,  and  to  have  the  instinct  of  the  true 
artist  for  the  avoidance  of  an  anticlimax.  He  also  brought  a 
strange  temperance  to  bear  on  his  enjoyment  of  nature.  He 
sipped  his  choicest  vistas  as  a  connoisseur  sips  his  choicest 
wines.  He  once  led  Mr.  Warner  and  some  others  to  the 
Upper  Ausable  Lake,  near  which  rise  the  uniquely  beautiful 
Gothics.     The  party  wished  to  camp  on  the  south  side  of  the 


58  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

lake,  which  would  give  them  a  constant  view  of  the  mountains. 
But  Phelps  objected,  much  to  their  surprise,  and  urged  the 
north  shore,  which  did  not  command  the  desired  view.  The 
pros  and  cons  were  debated,  and  finally  Phelps  drawled  out: 
''Waal,  now,  them  Gothics  ain't  the  kinder  scenery  yer  want 
ter  hog  down!^^ 

Outside  of  nature,  however,  there  was  another  love  and 
another  influence  that  helped  to  mould  his  character :  this  was 
Horace  Greeley's  ''Weekly  Tribune."  The  "Try-bune" 
Phelps  called  it.  It  became  his  Bible.  He  not  only  read  it; 
he  soaked  and  wallowed  in  it,  and  then  oozed  Greeleyisms  to 
lard  the  lean  understandings  of  his  associates.  His  constant 
reference  to  the  paper  led  many  of  his  neighbors  to  dub  him 
"Old  Greeley,"  and,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  he  resembled  the 
eccentric  editor  in  both  looks  and  voice.  The  "Tribune"  at 
this  time  published  much  of  Tennyson's  poetry,  and  Old 
Phelps  became  very  fond  of  it,  largely,  no  doubt,  as  Mr. 
Warner  suggests,  because  they  were  both  lotus-eaters. 

Despite  a  local  aloofness  engendered  by  his  Tribunal  educa- 
tion and  his  owti  philosophical  "speckerlations,"  he  was  eager 
for  contact  with  men  of  real  intellect.  Keene  Valley  was  un- 
usually full  of  them,  and  several  of  its  finest  spirits  honored 
Phelps  with  their  serious  friendship.  How  much  he  valued 
it,  the  following  will  illustrate.  The  talk  turned  one  day  to 
the  making  of  money,  and  Mr.  Warner  asked  him  if  he  would 
plan  his  life  differently  if  he  had  it  to  live  over  again.  ' '  Yes, ' ' 
he  answered  thoughtfully,  "but  not  about  money.  To  have 
had  hours  such  as  I  have  had  in  these  mountains,  and  with 
such  men  as  Dr.  Bushnell,  Dr.  Shaw  and  Mr.  Twichell,  and 
others  I  could  name,  is  worth  all  the  money  the  world  could 
give." 

He  met  these  distinguished  men  on  an  easy  footing  of 
equality.  He  suffered  from  no  abashed  sense  of  their  impor- 
tance. Those  whom  he  particularly  liked  he  called  by  their 
first  names.  He  always  addressed  Dr.  Twitchell  as  "Joe." 
He  often  visited  in  Hartford,  where  he  had  a  married  daugh- 
ter, besides  several  distinguished  friends.  One  morning  he 
walked  into  the  Warner  house  and  met  Mrs.  Warner  coming 
downstairs.     She  had  seen  him  but  a  couple  of  times  and  was 


OLD  MOUNTAIN  PHELPS  59 

not  aware  that  they  were  on  an  intimate  footing.  She  was, 
therefore,  a  little  taken  aback  to  be  greeted  with,  ''Good 
morning,  Susie !     Charlie  in  I " 

He  tested  every  one  by  his  own  standards,  and  strangers 
stood  or  fell  in  his  estimation  by  these  alone.  Nature  was  the 
test,  and  he  used  it  much  as  a  doctor  would  a  toxin  on  a  doubt- 
ful patient.  After  leading  his  subject  to  his  laboratory,  he 
would  suddenly  inject,  through  the  eye,  a  dash  of  sunset  or  a 
dainty  bit  of  landscape.  Then  he  would  withdraw  to  a  log, 
and  watch  for  the  reaction.  Its  degree  of  intensity  decided 
the  rating.  Those  who  didn't  react  became  outcasts,  and  no 
other  merits  could  restore  them  to  his  favor. 

He  once  guided  two  or  three  young  girls  up  Mount 
''Mercy."  On  reaching  the  top  they  glanced  around  irrever- 
ently, and  then  fell  to  talking  about  clothes  and  fashions. 
They  must  have  known  that  they  had  passed  some  dangerous 
spots,  but  the  greatest  danger  of  all  they  probably  never 
dreamed  of — the  itching  desire  of  the  disgusted  Phelps  "ter 
kick  the  silly  things  off  my  mounting." 

His  vocabulary  was  limited  but  extremely  picturesque.  He 
got  his  effects  with  few  colors,  as  the  artists  say.  He  was 
particularly  fond  of  working  one  word — like  his  favorite 
mountain — for  all  it  was  worth.  Asked  whither  a  to- 
morrow's tramp  would  lead,  he  produced  this  gem:  "Waal, 
I  callerlate,  if  they  rig  up  the  callerlation  they  callerlate  on, 
we  '11  go  to  the  Boreas."  He  made  a  nice  distinction  between 
a  "reg'lar  walk"  and  a  "random  scoot."  The  former  meant 
over  a  beaten  track ;  the  latter,  away  from  it.  A  tight  place 
in  the  woods  became  a  "reg'lar  random  scoot  of  a  rigmarole." 
Assuring  some  one  that  no  water  had  struck  his  back  for  forty 
years,  he  concluded  with,  "I  don't  believe  in  this  etarnal  soz- 
zlin'."  As  Dr.  Twitchell  once  said  of  him,  the  dictionary  in 
I; his  mouth  became  as  clay  in  the  hands  of  the  potter. 

The  constant  reading  of  the  "Tribune"  and  frequent  con- 
tact with  literary  men,  led  to  an  almost  inevitable  result :  Old 
[Phelps  finally  burst  into  print,  and  no  less  a  paper  than  the 
j" Essex  County  Republican"  became  the  willing  purveyor  of 
|his  writings.  They  took  the  form  of  both  verse  and  prose, 
and  ranged  in  subject  from  natural  history  to  philosophy. 


60  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

His  * '  Speckerlations  "  in  this  line  carried  the  hall-mark  of  the 
highest  excellence — they  are  utterly  incomprehensible  to  the 
average  reader.  One  of  them  bore  the  title  "Why  Have 
Miracles  Ceased?" 

His  nature  writings,  on  the  other  hand,  revealed  unusually 
keen  observation  and  a  gift  of  expression  truly  remarkable 
for  a  backwoodsman  whose  primitive  schooling  had  ceased 
when  he  was  fifteen.  One  of  these  articles,  called  **The 
Growth  of  a  Tree,"  attracted  sufficient  attention  to  be  repro- 
duced in  pamphlet  form.^ 

The  Manager  of  the  Beaufort  Gardens,  in  London,  sent  for 
a  copy,  and  spoke  of  it  with  commendation.  Professor  Peck 
of  the  New  York  Museum  of  Natural  History  wrote  a  per- 
sonal letter  to  the  author  after  reading  the  pamphlet.  **I 
thank  you  for  writing  it,  and  wish  you  were  a  botanist,"  he 
said.  "You  would  do  some  good  work  with  your  natural  apti- 
tude for  close  observation  and  your  faciUties  for  investiga- 
tion." 

This  and  other  of  Phelps's  writings  were  so  good,  compara- 
tively, that  many  people  were  inclined  to  believe  that  what 
appeared  over  his  name  was  largely  the  result  of  much  blue- 
penciling.  I  am  assured,  however,  that  such  was  not  the  case, 
and  that  his  manuscripts  underwent  no  radical  changes  in  the 
editorial  office.  If  this  is  so,  the  quality  of  his  literary  output 
is  certainly  surprising.  I  give  as  a  sample  a  few  verses  of 
one  of  the  best  of  his  longer  poems,  which  is  full  of  primitive 
poetic  feeling  and  of  his  genuine  love  for  the  mountains. 

MOUNTAIN  SONG 

How  dear  to  my  heart  are  the  glorious  old  mountains, 

When  for  thirty  years  past  I  recall  scenes  to  view, 

Their  wild  mossy  gorges  and  sweet  crystal  fountains 

Stand  out  now  hefore  me  as  vivid  as  new. 

Their  Avalanche  stript  faces  that  glitter  in  sunlight 

With  myriads  of  crystals  that  dazzle  the  eyes ; 

Their  rough  ragged  rocks  horizontal  and  upright, 

Proclaim  their  Creator  must  have  truly  been  wise. 

The  old  feldspar  mountains,  with  their  sweet  crystal  fountains 

Tlie  evergreen  mountains  we  all  love  so  well. 

1  The  title-page  reads:  '•The  drouth  of  a  Tree  from  Its  Germ  or  .SVerf,  by  0.  S. 
Phelps,  written  for  the  Essex  County  RepnhJiran  and  republished  in  pamphlet 
form — containing  poem  Autumn  Leaves."     No  date. 


OLD  MOUNTAIN  PHELPS  61 

The  deep  shady  forests  spread  over  these  highlands 

Of  the  old  sable  spruce  and  lighter  green  fir-tree, 

And  the  lovely  green  moss  that  covers  the  lowlands 

Combine  in  a  picture  we  seldom  can  see. 

Then  higher  up  still  are  the  bare  rocky  summits, 

With  their  Matterhorn  spires  towering  up  to  the  sky, 

And  the  thick  stunted  fir  trees  that  fringe  the  bare  granite 

Can  creep  upward  no  more  than  five  thousand  feet  higli. 

Tlie  broad  rapid  rivers  that  flow  down  from  your  valleys, 
And  brooks  without  number  coming  down  from  your  heights. 
And  long  dancing  cascades  that  glitter  like  lilies. 
And  waterfalls  singing  their  sweet  songs  in  the  night. 
Through  the  deep  rock-bound  chasms  the  waters  are  flowing 
O'er  crystals  and  opals  that  glitter  like  diamonds 
In  the  bright  rays  of  sunlight  down  through  the  trees  dancing. 
And  washed  by  pure  water  that  came  down  from  highlands. 

The  clear  little  lakes  are  so  peacefully  sleeping, 

At  the  feet  of  these  giants  so  tall  and  so  grand, 

That  they  look  like  the  tears  of  many  years  weeping, 

That  have  flown  down  their  cheeks  and  have  mingled  with  sand. 

And  broader  lakes  still,  lying  in  the  lone  forests. 

That  reflect  all  their  grandeur  like  mirrors  of  glass, 

And  make  the  great  play-ground  of  thousands  of  tourists, 

That  meet  here  in  summer  their  spare  time  to  pass. 


My  time  is  fast  passing  to  view  these  grand  mountains. 

And  the  grand  scenes  of  Nature  that  about  them  I  see. 

Of  great  boulder  rocks  and  their  sweet  crystal  fountains, 

Fresh  from  their  Creator  they  have  all  come  to  me. 

And  I  must  soon  leave  to  unborn  generations. 

Those  scenes  that  so  long  have  been  dear  to  my  sight, 

Who  will  hereafter  view  them  with  varied  emotions. 

And  volumes  about  them  great  Authors  will  write. 

Oh!  the  old  feldspar  mountains,  with  their  sweet  crystal  fountains, 

The  evergreen  mountains  we  all  love  so  well! 

Phelps  lived  to  be  eighty-eight  years  old — showing  that  lon- 
gevity has  little  to  do  with  soap  and  water.  He  became  very 
feeble  in  his  last  years,  however,  and  spent  them  in  the  seclu- 
sion of  his  brook-side  home.  He  also  became  more  truly  pic- 
turesque than  ever.  His  long,  matted  hair  and  fanlike  beard 
turned  a  most  beautiful  pure  white,  and  sitting,  as  he  often  did 
in  summer,  in  a  doorway  flanked  with  flaming  sunflowers,  he 
suggested  a  Northern  Rabindranath  Tagore,  dreaming  of  a 
mountainous  Nirvana.     Behind  him,  through  the  open  door- 


62  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

way,  could  be  seen  a  kitchen  festooned  with  many  strings  of 
drying  apples.  These  appeared  to  offer  his  only  visible 
means  of  sustenance.  There  was  a  garden,  to  be  sure,  but 
it  gave  the  impression  of  being  kept  for  contemplative  pur- 
poses rather  than  practical  ones.  He  also  kept  a  store  on  the 
same  principle,  occasionally  selling  one  of  Stoddard's  guide- 
books or  a  portrait  of  himself. 

During  these  sunset  years  the  Rev.  Samuel  T.  Lowrie  of 
Philadelphia,  who  had  built  near  by  and  wished  to  control  the 
surrounding  property,  induced  Phelps  to  sell  on  condition  that 
he  and  his  wife  might  live  in  the  house  until  their  death.  Old 
Phelps  died  there  on  April  14,  1005.  Soon  afterward  the 
widow  went  to  live  with  a  married  daughter  in  Hartford,  and 
died  there  in  1917.  There  were  six  surviving  children,  three 
daughters  and  three  sons.  Only  one  of  them  still  lives  in 
Keene  Valley — a  son,  who  is  strangely  reminiscent  of  his  fa- 
ther in  looks,  in  manner,  and  in  a  deep-seated  love  of  nature. 
But  he  has  never  been  Warnerized. 

After  Phelps  died  and  Mrs.  Phelps  decided  to  move  away, 
Dr.  Lowrie  tore  down  their  old  home,  and  what  might  have 
been  a  wayside  shrine  for  a  few  sentimentalists  exists  no 
more.  Nothing  but  Phelps  Falls  remains  to  perpetuate  the 
memory  of  a  unique  figure  among  Adirondack  guides.  He 
was  held  by  them  in  but  slight  esteem,  and  was  considered  a 
mere  fumbler  at  most  of  their  arts,  but  he  possessed  one  un- 
known to  the  best  of  their  guild:  he  could  hallow  a  ''random 
scoot"  through  the  forests  into  something  akin  to  questing 
for  the  Holy  Grail. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV 
LONG  LAKE 

THIS  is  the  longest,  straightest,  and  narrowest  lake  in  the 
woods,  having  a  length  of  thirteen  miles.  In  width  it 
varies  from  a  few  rods  to  nearly  a  mile  at  the  broadest  point. 
In  reality  it  is  but  the  widened  channel  of  the  Raquette  River, 
which  flows  into  its  southern  extremity  and  out  of  its  northern 
apex.  Owing  to  this  fact,  according  to  Wallace,  it  was  at  one 
time  called  ''Wide  River."  Hoffman  says  the  Indian  name 
was  In-ca-pah-co  (anglice,  Lindermere),  from  the  predomi- 
nance of  basswood,  or  American  linden,  on  its  shores. 

All  but  the  extreme  upper  end  of  the  lake  lies  in  Townships 
21  and  22  of  the  Totten  and  Crossfield  Purchase.  Under  the 
allotment  of  1771  ^  the  first  of  these,  to  the  south,  was  drawn 
by  Philip  Livingston,  while  Township  22  fell  to  Theophilus 
Anthony.  After  the  Revolution  these  two  names  appear  to- 
gether as  joint  owners  of  the  northern  half  of  To\NTiship  22, 
but  by  1786  Anthony  appears  to  have  become  the  sole  owner. 

His  name,  moreover,  is  still  perpetuated  in  the  township. 
A  little  west  of  Long  Lake,  and  just  back  of  Buck  Mountain, 
are  three  small  but  very  beautiful  little  lakes,  known  as  the 
Anthony  Ponds.  Each  one  is  different,  and  they  have  a  pro- 
gressive charm.  Their  harmony  of  detail  is  such  as  to  sug- 
gest artificiality.  They  appear  like  miniature  models  of  na- 
ture's first  conception  of  a  perfect  lake.  The  beauty  of  First 
Pond  inspired  Louise  Morgan  Sill  to  write  a  poem  about  it. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  First  Pond,  Theophilus  An- 
thony built  a  summer  house  in  the  woods.  Old  guides  can  still 
point  out  the  traces  of  the  road  he  used,  the  outlines  of  his 
clearing,  and  the  site  of  his  long-vanished  house.  He  would 
seem  to  be  the  first  New  Yorker  to  own  a  pleasure-camp  in  the 
Adirondacks  and  to  pass  his  vacations  there.  As  the  pioneer 
of  uncommissioned  lingerers  in  these  woods,  it  is  regrettable 

1  See  Chap.  IX,  "Totten  and  Crossfield  Purchase." 


64  A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

that  he  kept  no  diary  and  left  no  records  of  his  summer  out- 
ings. It  would  be  so  interesting  to  know  how  he  reached  his 
secluded  lodge  and  how  he  whiled  away  his  leisure  there;  but 
all  details  are  denied  us.  About  all  we  know  of  the  gentleman 
is  that  he  was  born  in  New  York  city  in  1735,  and  died  there 
in  1814;  that  he  owned  a  farm  on  what  is  now  Murray  Hill, 
and  that  he  was  a  member  of  the  famous  Committee  of 
Safety.^  He  was  evidently  a  man  of  standing,  of  means,  and 
of  leisure ;  otherwise  he  never  could  have  visited  his  summer 
home. 

The  record  of  the  first  settlement  on  the  shores  of  Long 
Lake  is  contained  in  a  little  book,  now  exceedingly  rare,  writ- 
ten by  Dr.  John  Todd,^  a  well-known  preacher  and  author  of 
his  day.  John  Todd  was  born  in  Rutland,  Vt.,  on  October  9, 
1800.'  His  parents  were  poor,  and  his  boyhood  knew  the 
hardships  of  poverty.  He  was  ambitious  and  industrious, 
however,  and  managed  to  prepare  himself  for  college.  He 
was  graduated  from  Yale  in  1822.  He  taught  during  the  fol- 
lowing year,  then  entered  the  Andover  Theological  Seminary, 
and  in  1827  was  ordained  minister  of  the  Congregational 
Church  in  Groton,  Mass.  From  there  he  was  called  to  North- 
ampton in  1833,  to  Philadelphia  in  1836,  and  finally  to  Pitts- 
field  in  1842.  Here  he  remained  until  his  death.  He  retired 
from  the  pulpit  in  1872,  and  died  in  1873. 

Besides  being  an  effective  preacher,  he  was  a  voluminous 
and  popular  writer,  leaving  some  thirty  volumes  to  his  credit, 
several  of  which  were  translated  into  many  foreign  tongues. 
What  at  the  time  was  probably  considered  the  least  of  these, 
has  become  historically  the  most  valuable  to-day.  His  "Long 
Lake"  is  a  blend  of  Adirondack  enthusiasm  and  pastoral  sen- 
timentality of  the  lachrymose  type.  The  good  doctor  weeps 
often  and  easily,  and  his  mountain  flock  weeps  with  him ;  but 

1  His  brother  wan  Capt  Xicliolaa  N.  Anthony,  who  commandrd  a  company  of 
New  York  Militia  durinj^  tlic  Revolution,  and  who,  being  a  blacksmith  by  trade, 
forged  the  enormoiis  iron  chain  that  was  swung  across  the  Hudson  to  prevent 
British  ships  from  going  up  the  river. 

2  Long  Lake      E.  P.  Little.  Pittsfield,  Mass.     1845. 

3  Life  and  Letters  of  John  Todd,  by  Dr.  John  E.  Todd  [his  son].  Harper  & 
Bros.  187G 


LONG  LAKE  65 

between  tears  he  gives  a  glimpse  of  undiscovered  country  that 
has  much  value  for  these  pages. 

He  was  among  the  earliest  men  of  note  to  go  to  the  Adiron- 
dacks  for  the  pleasures  of  hunting  and  fishing  and  the  outdoor 
life.  He  made  his  first  visit  in  September,  1841,  in  company 
with  Professor  Emmons  the  geologist.  In  the  course  of  their 
wanderings  they  came  to  Long  Lake,  where  "scattered  along 
towards  the  head  of  the  lake,  we  found  a  little  community  of 
eight  or  nine  families."  The  head  of  the  lake  is  the  south- 
western end.  The  community  consisted  of  widely  scattered 
houses,  built  on  both  shores,  and  extending  half-way  up  the 
lake. 

These  people  were  found  to  be  literally  in  a  God-forsaken 
condition.  The  doctor's  pastoral  instincts  were  naturally 
aroused,  and  he  offered  to  furnish  some  religious  instruction 
and  moral  uplift,  and  the  suggestion  met  with  favor.  A 
church  service  was  arranged  for  and  the  visiting  pastor 
inaugurated  "the  first  Sabbath  that  ever  broke  upon  the 
lake.  No  hounds  were  sent  to  chase  the  deer.  No  fish  were 
caught.  The  loons  screamed  unmolested."  Some  of  the 
more  enthusiastic  younger  sisters  rowed  around  the  lake — 
"some  twelve  or  fourteen  miles" — and  picked  up  outlying 
members  of  the  congregation.  They  met  in  a  little  log  house 
covered  with  hemlock  bark.^  Men,  women,  children,  and 
dogs  were  all  there.  They  couldn't  sing,  "for  none  had 
learned  the  songs  of  Zion  in  a  strange  land."  But  the  doctor 
preached  the  first  sermon  that  they  or  the  wilderness  had  ever 
heard.  After  it  both  he  and  his  hearers  wept.  A  few  days 
later  he  took  his  departure  and  "shed  fresh  tears  at  parting," 
for  he  never  expected  to  see  "these  few  sheep  in  the  wilder- 
ness again." 

He  came  back,  however,  in  August,  1842,  and  found  condi- 
tions slightly  improved.  "In  all  things,"  he  writes,  "there 
was  evident  and  striking  improvement.  Some  new  families 
had  come  in,  and  among  them  some  professed  Christians." 
The  result  was  that  a  Temperance  Society  had  been  formed, 

iTliis  was  a  scliooMiousc  that  stood  on  the  west  slioro  of  tlie  laki»,  on  Lot  71, 
Township  21,  diagonally  across  from  Long  Lake  village 


66  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

and  a  Sunday  School  started.  The  doctor  preached  to  them 
again,  and  then  decided  on  a  bold  step.  He  found  eleven  will- 
ing souls — five  men  and  six  women — and  he  organized  them 
into  a  church  of  God,  by  the  name  of  "The  First  Congrega- 
tionalist  Church  on  Long  Lake,"  which  was  also  the  first  or- 
ganized church  in  the  Adirondacks.  On  this  occasion  he 
baptized  eight  children. 

After  this  he  left  them  again,  but  returned  for  a  third  \dsit 
in  the  summer  of  1843.  This  time  he  brought  with  him  some 
books  and  money  he  had  collected  for  the  little  church 
"planted  in  the  wilderness."  He  also  agitated  the  erection 
of  a  church  building,  and  secured  the  gift  of  an  acre  of  land 
for  the  purpose.  It  was  cleared  and  in  good  condition,  "on  a 
point  which  projects  into  the  lake."  This  is  all  that  is  said 
about  the  site,  and  it  does  not  appear  that  it  was  ever  built  on. 

After  returning  home  from  this  visit,  Dr.  Todd  found  that 
the  children  of  his  Sunday  School  had  collected  another  purse 
for  the  Long  Lakers — sufficient  to  support  a  missionary  for 
six  weeks.  A  young  man  named  Parker  was  found  and  sent 
in  to  the  settlement,  where  he  eventually  stayed  for  more  than 
a  year,  subsisting,  after  the  first  six  weeks,  on  the  meager 
support  the  natives  gave  him.  Although  he  returned  once  or 
twice  in  later  years.  Dr.  Todd  paid  what  might  be  called  his 
last  pastoral  visit  to  the  settlement  in  1844.  Again  he  found 
that  new  families  had  moved  in,  "so  that  the  colony  now  con- 
sists of  eighteen  families  and  about  one  hundred  souls.  "^ 

1  Throuah  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Henry  D.  Kellogg  of  Long  Lake,  who  made  a 
searcli  of  the  old  Town  records  for  me,  I  am  able  to  give  the  probable  names  of  the 
above  faniilios: 

The  S  or   9  families  which  Dr.   Todd      Those  who  came  later,  making  the  18 
found  on  his  first  visit  1841:  families  of  1844: 


Joel  Plumley,  Matthew  Beach, 

David  Keller,  William  Wood, 

James    1    _  .  David  Smith, 

Robert    I   ^^'S'^'^^'  Amos  Hough, 

William  Kellogg,  Samuel  Renne, 

Zenas   Parker,  Peter  Van  Valkenburg, 

Williiim   Austin,  John  Clark, 

Isaac  B.  C.  Robinson,  James  McCauley, 

Lyman  Mix,  John  Dornbnrgh, 

Burton  Burlingame.  Daniel  B.  Catlin. 


LONG  LAKE  67 

After  this  the  outside  interest  he  had  aroused  in  the  colony 
flagged,  and  his  own  abated  considerably  upon  learning  that 
the  missionary  he  had  sent  up  there,  and  who  had  consented 
to  stay  on  without  salary,  had  been  starved  out  by  his  unap- 
preciative  flock. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  Dr.  Todd's  presence  and  pastoral 
enthusiasm  roused  these  people  to  a  momentary  wave  of  re- 
ligious fervor.  But  how  quickly  it  passed,  and  how  little  fruit 
it  bore,  is  attested  by  some  interesting  letters  on  the  subject 
written  by  another  clergyman,  J.  T.  Headley.^  He  made  a 
visit  to  Long  Lake  in  1846,  and  writes  of  it  as  follows : 

Now  here  is  a  colony,  called  the  Long  Lake  Colony,  about  which 
much  has  been  said,  much  sympathy  excited,  and  on  Avhieh  more  or 
less  money  has  been  expended.  And  what  is  its  condition?  It  has 
been  established  for  man}-  years,  and  by  this  time  it  ought  to  furnish 
some  inducements  to  the  farmer  who  would  locate  here,  nearly  fifty 
miles  from  a  post-office  or  store,  and  half  that  distance  from  a  good 
mill.  But  what  is  the  truth  respecting  it?  Not  a  man  here  supports 
himself  from  his  farm;  and  I  can  see  no  gain  since  I  was  here  two 
years  ago.  The  church  which  was  organized  some  time  since  was 
never  worthy  of  the  name  of  one :  the  few  men  who  composed  it,  with 
some  few  exceptions,  being  anything  but  religious  men.  I  was  told 
by  one  of  the  chief  men  here  that  one  man  now  constituted  the  entire 
"Congregational  Church  of  Long  Lake."  There  are  no  meetings  held 
on  the  Sabbath,  not  even  a  Sabbath  school.  The  truth  is,  the  people 
here,  as  a  general  thing,  would  not  give  a  farthing  for  any  religious 
privileges,  indeed  would  rather  be  without  them;  and  instead  of  this 
colony  being  a  center  from  which  shall  radiate  an  immense  popula- 
tion, covering  the  whole  of  this  wild  region,  it  will  drag  on  a  miserable 
existence,  composed,  two-thirds  of  it,  by  those  who  had  rather  hunt 
than  work.  I  do  not  mean  to  disparage  this  central  region  of  New 
York ;  but  I  would  divest  it  of  the  romance  of  dreamers,  and  the  false- 
hood of  land  speculators. 

From  a  letter  written  a  year  later,  in  1847,  I  quote  the 
f  olloAving : 

Paddling  leisurely  up  Long  Lake,  I  was  struck  by  the  desolate  ap- 
pearance of  the  settlement.  Scarcely  an  improvement  had  been  made 
since  I  was  last  here,  while  some  clearings  had  been  left  to  go  back  to 

1  Letters  from  the  Bnclwoods.     John  S.  Taylor,  New  York.  1850. 


68  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

their  original  wildness.     Disappointed  purchasers,  lured  by  extrava- 
gant statements,  had  given  up  in  despondency,  and  left. 

This  paragraph  and  the  last  line  of  the  preceding  one  obvi- 
ously refer  to  some  one  else  than  Dr.  Todd.  But  before 
leaving  this  gentleman  and  his  book,  we  must  revert  to  the  one 
important  historical  fact  which  it  gives  us — that  some  eight- 
een families  were  living  on  the  shores  of  Long  Lake  as  early 
as  1844.  At  this  date  no  other  lake  could  boast  of  more  than 
an  occasional  hermit  or  hunter. 

The  settlement  which  Dr.  Todd  discovered  represented,  of 
course,  a  gradual  growth  of  several  years,  and  there  are  for- 
tunately some  records  to  show  when  it  began.  In  Colonel 
Fox's  "History  of  the  Lumber  Industry  in  the  State  of  New 
York,"^  there  is  a  lengthy  table  giving  the  date  of  the  first 
settlement  and  of  the  first  sawmill — for  the  two  went  almost 
hand  in  hand — in  every  Towni  in  the  State.  And  here  w^e  find 
that  the  first  settlement  on  Long  Lake  was  made  as  early  as 
1830  - — a  date  amply  confirmed  by  local  tradition.  The  pio- 
neer was  Joel  Plumbley,  the  father  of  ''honest  John,"  and  of 
the  first  white  child  to  be  born  in  the  region — Jeremiah 
Plumbley. 

The  sawmill  was  a  much  later  development  in  this  instance, 
however.  It  did  not  come  till  1836,  when  E.  H.  St.  John,  the 
second  settler,  built  a  sawmill  on  South  Pond  Stream,  near 
where  it  empties  into  the  lake.  He  did  not  build  it  for  him- 
self, however,  but  for  a  man  named  Hammond,  who  was  a 
large  owner  of  land  around  Long  Lake.  He  paid  St.  John 
partly  in  money,  and  partly  in  a  deed  for  800  acres.  This 
became  the  "St.  John  Clearing"  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  still 
kno^vn  as  such  to-day.  Besides  building  a  mill,  St.  John's 
contract  called  for  the  cutting  out  of  the  first  road  between 
Newcomb  and  Long  Lake.  The  mill  does  not  appear  to  have 
amounted  to  much,  for  Dr.  Todd,  speaking  of  the  post-office 
being  half  a  hundred  miles  oflF,  says  "and  the  nearest  mill 
that  deserves  the  name  of  a  mill,  is  not  much  nearer."     Ilead- 

1  See  ffixth  Annual  Report  (1000)  of  the  Forest.  Fish  and  Game  Commission, 
p.  237. 

2  Ibid.,  p.  293. 


LONG  LAKE  G9 

ley,  in  the  letter  I  haA^e  quoted,  also  refers  to  the  remoteness 
of  a  mill. 

Thus  did  the  settlement  start,  but  its  comparatively  rapid 
growth  is  not  so  explicitly  recorded.  There  seemed  to  be  a 
clue  to  it,  however,  in  Headley's  allusion  to  '*the  falsehoods  of 
land  speculators,"  which  had  lured  people  to  the  spot  by  ''ex- 
travagant statements."  Acting  on  this  clue,  I  was  fortunate 
enough  to  discover  the  following  pamphlet,  of  which  I  give 
the  title-page  in  full : 

An 

Attempt  to  Present 

Tlie 

CLAIMS  OF  LONG  I^KE 

to  tbe 

Consideration  of  all  those 

who  are 

In  search  after  good  land  at  a 

Low  Price. 

BY    AMOS    DEAN 

One  of  tlie  proprietors. 

Albany: 

Printed   by  Joel  Munsell. 

1840 

Following  this  the  author  addresses  a  preface  **To  the  Re- 
ceiver of  this  Pamphlet,"  of  whom  certain  specific  services  are 
asked : 

1st.  That  you  will  take  an  early  occasion  to  post  or  fasten  up  in 
as  conspicuous  a  place  as  possible,  in  places  of  the  most  public  resort, 
such  as  the  counting  rooms  of  stores,  and  the  bar  rooms  of  public 
houses,  the  notices  which  accompany  this  pamphlet. 

2nd.  That  you  will  allow  yourself  to  be  referred  to  on  the  subjects 
embraced  in  this  pamphlet ;  and  that  you  will  allow  the  community  in 
the  midst  of  which  you  live  to  understand  that  you  are  so  referred  to. 

3rd.  That  if  application  is  made  to  you  for  more  particular  infor- 
mation, as  specified  in  the  accompanying:  notice,  you  will  refer  the 
applicant  to  this  pamphlet;  direct  his  attention,  etc.,  etc. 

After  making  these  requests,  the  author  explains  why  he 
does  so,  by  saying  that  *'we  all  owe  one  another  something.''^ 
There  follows  a  disquisition  on  the  theory  of  human  interde- 


70  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

pendence  and  the  moral  obligation  of  mutual  aid,  closing  with 
this  Pecksniflfian  peroration : 

If  for  these  or  any  other  reasons,  you  think  proper  to  render  me 
these  services,  I  shall  feel  under  great  obligations  to  yon ;  if  not,  it 
is  in  the  highest  degree  probable  that  a  benevolent  neighbor  of  yours 
in  an  adjoining  town  will  render  them,  and  thus  deprive  you  of  the 
honor  of  being  referred  to  in  this  matter,  a  thing  which  no  doubt  you 
will  very  much  regret. 

With  very  great  respect, 

Truly  Yours, 

Amos  Dean. 

In  the  body  of  the  pamphlet  Mr.  Dean  says  that  he  has 
become,  *' jointly  with  another,  the  proprietor  of  almost  12,000 
acres  of  land  lying  principally  around  the  head  of  Long 
Lake."  He  then  admits  that  these  lands  are  for  sale,  and  at 
a  very  low  price — from  one  to  three  dollars  an  acre,  according 
to  location.  He  further  admits — for  he  is  winsomely  frank 
about  it  all — that  while  this  is  the  price  rwiv,  he  cannot  say 
how  long  it  will  be.  But  he  fears  the  period  will  be  brief, 
surprisingly  brief.  Such  opportunities  always  are.  They 
knock  but  once,  and  those  who  fail  to  answer  the  summons 
drag  out  the  rest  of  their  lives  in  poignant  regret. 

It  is,  indeed,  difficult  to  understand  how  any  could  be  deaf 
to  the  clarion  call  of  the  Dean  pamphlet.  It  offers  lands  that 
are  remarkably  fertile,  comparing  favorably  with  best  farm- 
ing sections  of  the  State.  It  calls  attention  to  the  vast  ore 
beds  near  by,  and  suggests  that  they  ?naij  be  discovered  on  any 
of  the  salable  lots.  The  pamphlet  admits  that  Long  Lake  at 
the  moment  appears  somewhat  detached,  not  to  say,  isolated. 
This  is  to  be  speedily  changed,  however.  The  Carthage  Road, 
now  six  miles  away,  is  to  be  turnpiked  to  the  shores  of  the 
lake  and  to  skirt  its  borders.  Then  a  railroad,  traversing  the 
mountains,  is  to  pass  that  way.  And  last,  not  least,  the  proj- 
ect of  a  continuous  water  communication  between  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  Lake  Champlain,  is  to  make  Long  Lake  a  high- 
way of  boat  traffic  and  the  settlement  on  its  shores  a  little 
Detroit  in  the  wilderness. 

These  schemes  were  in  the  air  at  the  time,^  it  must  be  ad- 

1  See  Chap.  XL,  "Railroads." 


LONG  LAKE  71 

mitted,  but  Mr.  Dean  gives  them  a  prospective  probability 
that  smacks  of  certainty.  He  reinforces  many  of  his  state- 
ments by  lengthy  quotations  from  the  official  reports  of  Pro- 
fessor Emmons,  of  0.  L.  Holley,  Surveyor-General  of  the 
State,  and  of  George  E.  Hotfman,  chief  engineer  of  the 
water  communication  project.  Nor  is  Dr.  Todd  overlooked. 
Copious  extracts  are  given  from  the  most  visionary  pages  of 
his  little  book.  The  result  is  that  we  have  a  pamphlet  based 
on  some  undeniable  facts,  but  strongly  qualified  by  the  desire 
to  sell  land. 

Mr.  Dean  contributes  little  of  specific  historic  value,  except- 
ing w^hon  he  speaks  of  the  lots  already  sold  and  under  contract, 
giving  their  numbers,  namely:  72,  60,  48,  71,  59,  82,  70,  81, 
79,  78,  89,  88,  and  99.^  The  last  one  belonged  to  one  Sargeant, 
who  had,  we  are  told,  fifty  acres  under  cultivation.  Lot  82 
contains  Long  Lake  village  to-day. 

The  Dean  pamphlet  was  not  published  till  1846.  It  cannot, 
therefore,  have  been  an  influence  in  the  size  of  the  colony 
which  Dr.  Todd  found  in  1844,  but  it  does  help  to  explain  it. 
Mr.  Dean  speaks  of  having  become  interested  "with  another." 
The  other  was  undoubtedly  the  Mr.  Hammond  who  was  the 
original  owner  of  the  land  and  sold  St.  John  his  clearing. 
The  further  inference  is  that  Mr.  Hammond  had  done  some 
effective  advertising  on  his  own  account  before  the  mellifluous 
pen  of  ^Ir.  Dean  sought  to  bring  the  Long  Lake  property  "to 
the  attentive  consideration  of  the  young  men  of  New  England, 
who  are  anxiously  looking  for  a  home,  in  the  enjoyment  of 
which  they  hope  to  spend  long,  happy,  and  useful  lives." 

As  the  first  settlers  came  largely  from  New  England,  it  is 
evident  that  Mr.  Dean  hoped  for  recruits  from  the  same  quar- 
ter. There  is  no  evidence  that  he  secured  them,  however. 
Indeed,  according  to  Headley's  letter  of  1847,  the  drift  of 
emigration  at  that  time  seemed  to  be  very  decidedly  away 
from  the  settlement. 

The  two  graves  of  the  first  persons  to  be  buried  at  Long 
Lake  are  still  in  evidence.     The  first  death  to  occur  was  that 

iTliese  numbers  belong  to  the  Richards  Snrvey  of  ToAvnship  21,  made  about 
1830.  The  lots,  of  200  acres  each,  arc  shown  on  a  map  that  accompanied  the 
pamphlet.  They  can  be  found  to-day  on  the  large  colored  map  issued  by  the 
Conservation  Commission. 


72  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIKONDACKS 

of  a  sixteen-year-old  daughter  of  one  of  the  Sargeants.  This 
was  in  1841,  for  Dr.  Todd  on  his  first  visit  speaks  of  being 
taken  to  the  new-made  grave  of  this  ''solitary  sleeper."  An- 
other was  soon  dug  beside  it.  The  brother  of  one  of  the  set- 
tlers, who  had  come  for  a  visit,  went  hunting  alone,  became 
lost  in  the  woods,  and  died  of  starvation.  His  body,  when 
found,  was  placed  beside  the  other. 

Long  Lake  had  two  hermits — that  is  if  two  hermits  can  live 
on  the  same  lake  without  forfeiting  their  integrity  of  title. 
Does  the  conjunction  of  two  hermits  on  one  spot  precipitate  a 
community,  or  does  it  merely  augment  a  condition?  And  at 
what  point  in  the  density  of  neighbors  doe^  the  evaporation  of 
hermits  begin?  Both  these  questions  bear  on  the  exact  status 
of  the  gentlemen  in  question,  for  they  dwelt  on  Long  Lake  at 
the  same  time  and  came  to  it  long  after  the  first  settlement 
was  started  there.  They  made  their  homes,  however,  at  the 
uninhabited  north  end  of  the  lake,  and  chose  opposite  sides 
of  it.  They  were  two  decidedly  mysterious  beings,  known  as 
Bowen  and  Harney. 

Bowen  is  said  to  have  come  from  Elizabethtown  about  1850. 
He  built  a  rough  cabin  on  the  pine  ridge  at  the  west  side  of 
the  outlet  of  the  lake.  The  Old  ^lilitary  Koad  passed  near  his 
house,  and  could  be  easily  traced  in  his  day.  He  often  fol- 
lowed it,  and  spoke  of  seeing  the  abandoned  English  cannon 
that  laj''  near  it.*  He  lived  entirely  alone  and  in  seclusion, 
but  was  not  averse  to  meeting  and  talking  with  people  who 
came  his  way.  He  was  not  only  a  man  of  education  but  a  gen- 
tleman of  culture  and  refinement.  The  few  who  crossed  his 
threshold  found  themselves  in  the  very  humble  home  of  a  very 
polished  host,  and,  besides  this  striking  contrast,  they  found 
the  walls  of  his  primitive  shack  lined  with  a  collection  of  fine 
books. 

The  possessor  of  this  library,  however,  earned  his  living  in 
the  wilderness  by  making  charcoal,  at  which  he  was  considered 
an  expert.  He  would  pile  up  wood  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid, 
cover  it  with  earth,  and  then  let  it  burn  very  slowly  for  several 
days.  This  was  the  only  kind  of  labor  he  w^as  ever  known  to 
do,  and  even  this  he  w^ould  do  only  occasionally. 

iSce  Chap.  XXXIX,  "Old  Military  Roads." 


LONG  LAKE  73 

During  his  stay  on  Long  Lake  a  Mr.  Robert  Shaw — some- 
times called  ''the  Eev." — was  one  of  the  leaders  there,  both 
in  civic  and  religious  affairs.  He  was  blacksmith,  lawyer, 
shoemaker,  and  merchant  on  week-days,  and  a  preacher  on 
Sundays.  At  any  time,  however,  he  was  ready  to  expound  the 
Word,  and  to  debate  it.  He  occasionally  dropped  in  on  the 
hermit  Bowen  and  discussed  with  him  the  future  of  the  soul. 
It  soon  developed  that  the  recluse  had  no  very  strong  convic- 
tions on  the  subject.  He  was  what  the  world  calls  an  agnos- 
tic— what  Mr.  Shaw  called  a  lost  sheep.  There  followed  an 
effort  to  bring  the  wanderer  back  into  the  fold,  but  it  did  not 
succeed.  The  straggler  preferred  to  straggle,  and  presum- 
ably was  quite  able  to  defend  the  preference.  At  all  events, 
Mr.  Shaw  finally  gave  up  his  rescue  work,  but  told  Bowen  that 
when  the  hand  of  death  was  upon  him,  he  would  change  his 
mind  and  be  eager  for  the  consolations  of  religion.  Bowen 
merely  smiled  upon  the  prophet,  as  he  bowed  him  to  the  door 
with  his  usual  suavity  of  manner. 

Time  passed.  At  last  the  Dark  Stranger  lingered  at  the 
lonely  hut  and  marked  his  man.  Lying  on  his  death-bed, 
Bowen  sent  for  Shaw — solely,  as  the  event  proved,  to  have  the 
satisfaction  of  telling  him  that,  although  he  knew  he  was  about 
to  die,  he  had  neither  changed  his  mind  nor  lost  his  skepticism. 
A  few  days  later  he  passed  away,  in  the  year  1888,  at  the  ripe 
age  of  ninety.  The  mystery  that  led  to  his  forty  years  of 
isolation  in  the  wilderness  was  never  revealed,  so  far  as  I  can 
discover,  although  Mr.  Lossing  hints  at  knowing  it. 

In  making  the  preparatory  trip  for  his  book  "The  Hudson," 
Mr.  Lossing  passed  through  Long  Lake.  Speaking  of  the 
spot  where  they  camped  for  the  night,  he  says:  *'No  human 
habitation  was  near,  excepting  the  bark  cabin  of  Bowen,  the 
'Hermit  of  Long  Lake,'  whose  history  we  have  not  space  to 
record."  ^ 

Harney,  the  other  "Hermit  of  Long  Lake,"  also  belonged 
to  the  gentleman  class  of  solitude-seekers.     He  appeared  on 

1  Lossing's  The  Hudson,  p.  12.  The  place  where  the  Lossings  camped  for  the 
night  was  Buck  Mountain  Point,  formerly  owned  by  Dr.  Duryea,  and  now  by 
Mr.  Henry  S.  Harper.  Mrs.  Lossing  was  probably  the  first  lady  to  camp  on  the 
shores  of  Long  Lake,  as  she  was  one  of  the  first  to  ascend  Tahawus.  See  Chap. 
XXXIII,  "Old  Mountain  Phelps." 


74  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

the  scene  much  later,  however,  not  till  some  time  in  the  sixties. 
He  was  refined  in  manner  and  dignified  in  bearing,  but  he  had 
neither  the  education  nor  the  bookish  tastes  of  Bowen.  He 
was,  on  the  other  hand,  the  more  lovable  character  of  the  two, 
and  was  particularly  fond  of  children,  who  felt  instinctively 
attracted  to  him.  One  of  them,  now  grown  up,  has  told  me 
of  the  fascination  his  wonderful  blue  eyes  had  for  her,  and 
how  they  could  flash  with  fire,  although  as  a  rule  they  were 
twinkling  with  laughter.  He  was  genial  and  friendly  when 
he  mixed  with  people,  and  was  at  no  pains  to  avoid  such  eon- 
tacts.  Indeed,  he  had  little  more  than  a  quit-claim  to  being  a 
hermit.  In  the  winter  he  was  forced  to  be  one,  but  he  changed 
his  status,  though  not  his  name,  with  the  seasons. 

He  lived  in  a  miserable  shanty — still  standing  in  1920 — at 
the  northeast  end  of  the  lake,  on  land  now  belonging  to  Mr. 
Henry  S.  Harper.  Here  Harney  carried  on  farming-opera- 
tions, sometimes  on  a  vast  scale,  for  once  or  twice  his  fires 
burnt  over  a  mountain  or  two,  when  he  only  intended  to  clear 
a  potato  patch.  Ordinarily,  however,  he  confined  himself  to 
raising  and  selling  hay,  and  keeping  cow^s.  He  had  good  stock 
and  kept  them  in  fine  condition.  He  sold  milk  to  the  early 
campers,  Senator  Piatt,  Dr.  Duryea,  Mr.  Terry,  and  others. 

He  lived  on  the  lake  long  enough  to  become  a  very  old  man — 
and  also  a  very  dirty  one.  During  the  earlier  years  he  was 
rather  careful  about  his  personal  appearance,  and  won  the 
reputation  of  being  something  of  a  dude  in  his  dress  by  ap- 
pearing occasionally  in  a  "boiled  shirt."  Gradually,  how- 
ever, he  became  unpleasantly  careless  of  his  person  and  most 
unkempt  in  his  appearance. 

In  the  autumn  of  1898  he  was  taken  seriously  ill  and  feared 
he  was  going  to  die.  In  this  expectation  he  asked  a  friendly 
neighbor  to  write  a  letter  for  him  to  the  priest  of  a  Canadian 
parish  where  he  had  formerly  lived;  the  letter  inquired  if  any 
of  Harney's  family  were  still  living,  and  then  came  the  most 
interesting  part  of  the  incident.  The  amanuensis  was  in- 
structed, under  the  seal  of  confidence,  to  sign  the  letter  by 
Harney's  real  name,  which  was  Larmie  Fournier. 

No  answer  came  to  the  letter.  In  the  meantime  the  sick 
man  recovered  and  was  able  to  be  up  and  around  again. 


LONG  LAKE  75 

About  two  years  later — as  a  result  of  the  letter,  presumably — 
a  son  appeared  upon  the  scene  and  took  his  aged  and  myste- 
rious father  away  with  him.  This  was  the  last  ever  seen  or 
heard  of  Harney  the  Hermit. 

Not  far  from  his  cabin,  and  on  the  same  lot  (No.  20,  Town- 
ship 50),  lies  Hendrick  Spring,  a  remote  source  of  the  Hudson 
Eiver.  The  name  suggests  that  it  was  probably  considered  a 
very  important  one  at  the  time  of  its  discovery.  It  lies  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  shore  of  Long  Lake,  and  its 
waters  flow  into  Round  Pond — to  which  Mr.  Lossing  gave  the 
far  prettier  name  of  Fountain  Lake — and  then  through  Catlin 
Lake  into  the  upper  Hudson. 

In  1846  Professor  G.  W.  Benedict,  of  the  Geological  Survey, 
made  elaborate  plans  for  connecting  these  lakes  with  Long 
Lake,  in  order  to  give  direct  communication  with  the  upper 
Hudson  and  increase  its  water-power.  A  dam  was  built  at  the 
outlet  of  Fountain  Lake,  and  Mr.  Lossing  speaks  of  seeing  its 
ruins.  This  raised  the  water  as  far  back  as  Hendrick  Spring, 
and  from  there  a  canal  was  dug  to  connect  with  Long  Lake. 
The  old  ditch  can  still  be  traced  by  those  who  care  to  delve 
in  tangled  shrubbery  and  slash.  To  make  the  whole  scheme 
effective,  however,  it  w^ould  have  been  necessary  to  build  an- 
other dam  at  the  outlet  of  Long  Lake.  But  this  proposal 
aroused  strenuous  opposition  from  the  powerful  lumber  inter- 
ests on  the  lower  Raquette.  They  were  able  to  prevent  the 
building  of  the  dam,  w^hich,  of  course,  brought  about  the  col- 
lapse of  the  entire  project. 

On  the  east  shore  of  Long  Lake,  about  three  miles  from  the 
inlet,  is  the  village  of  Long  Lake,  the  only  one  in  the  very 
large  Tovm.  of  the  same  name.  The  Town  is,  indeed,  the  larg- 
est in  the  Adirondacks.^  It  was  erected  in  1837  and  contains 
440  square  miles.  Early  gazetteers  speak  of  it  as  "the  most 
secluded  town  in  the  State."  It  has  always  remained  so.  As 
late  as  1860  it  held  no  post-office.  In  1895  the  total  popula- 
tion was  only  324.^ 

1  TIio  Town  of  Wilmiiit  was  larger,  but  it  exists  no  more. 

2  An  old  resident  informs  me  that  it  was  the  only  Town  in  the  State  that  did 
not  ea'--t  a  single  Democratic  vote  in  the  Grant-Greeley  election,  and  my  informant 
adds:     "But  that  was  before  the  Tovm  was  demoralized  by  city  voters." 


76  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

From  the  above  it  may  be  inferred  that  the  village  of  Long 
Lake  is  neither  large  nor  populous.  It  has,  however,  one  pre- 
eminent distinction.  Its  name  is  a  true  index  to  its  location. 
It  actually  lies  near  the  shore  of  the  lake  whose  name  it  bears. 
But  it  has  not  always  borne  this  name.  In  the  early  days  it 
was  called  ' '  Gougeville. ' '  This  indignity  is  said  to  have  been 
put  upon  it  by  an  itinerant  peddler  who  once  traded  within  its 
purlieus.  The  inference  is  that  his  dealings  there  caused  him 
annoyance,  and  that  he  voiced  a  grouch  of  which  reiteration 
made  a  name.  He  also  dealt  with  the  settlement  on  the  oppo- 
site shore  of  the  lake,  and  here  again  he  left  the  perfume  of 
anathema.  He  dubbed  it  "Kickerville,"  and  the  road  to  Mr. 
Thomas  S.  Walker's  place  is  still  called  the  "Kickerville 
Road." 

On  a  hill  in  the  village  stands  the  Wesleyan  Methodist 
Church,  erected  in  1865,  largely  through  funds  collected  by 
Mitchell  Sabattis.^  This  was  the  first  church  building  in  the 
community,  for  the  one  projected  by  Dr.  Todd  never  mate- 
rialized. That  he  took  an  interest  in  this  one,  however,  is 
attested  by  a  large  clock  over  the  pulpit,  which  bears  the 
legend  of  having  been  presented  to  the  church  by  '*Dr.  Todd's 
Mission  School."  It  was  here  that  the  two  local  preachers 
Robert  Shaw  and  Mitchell  Sabattis  used  to  hold  forth.  There 
is  also  a  Roman  Catholic  church,  St.  Henry's,  and  a  Methodist 
Episcopal  church  in  this  small  village. 

About  a  mile  below  it  there  is  a  curious  bit  of  cobblestone 
beach,  so  smooth  and  even  as  to  give  the  effect  of  having  been 
artificially  laid.  Stone  beaches  of  any  kind  are  rare  in  the 
Adirondacks,  and  this  one  is  unique.  Long  Lake  is  also  no- 
table for  its  many  and  extensive  sand  beaches.  There  is  one 
at  Buck  Mountain  Point  that  is  a  mile  and  a  half  long.  The 
prominence  of  its  beaches  is  due  to  the  interesting  fact  that 
the  lake  is  not  and  never  has  been  dammed.  The  result  is  that 
the  beaches  remain  intact,  whereas  in  most  of  the  other  large 
lakes  they  have  been  artificially  submerged. 

Another  result  is  that  the  water  in  the  lake  constantly  fluc- 
tuates and,  during  the  spring  freshets,  often  rises  as  much  as 

1  See  the  following  chapter. 


LONG  LAKE  77 

fourteen  feet.  About  a  mile  below  the  outlet  of  Long  Lake 
the  waters  of  Cold  River,  rising  at  the  Preston  Ponds,  join 
those  of  the  Raquette.  The  latter  river  is  shallow  and  full  of 
sand-bars  along  this  stretch,  and  Cold  River,  when  swollen  by 
melting  snows  and  rain,  forces  its  waters  back  into  the  lake 
and  actually  flows  into  it  sometimes  for  two  or  three  days. 
As  a  consequence  the  lake  ceases  to  have  an  outlet,  while  two 
swollen  streams  pouring  into  it,  one  from  each  end,  cause  its 
waters  to  rise  to  the  extraordinary  height  of  fourteen  feet. 
This  spring  flood  is  so  certain  and  likely  to  prove  so  disastrous 
that  the  boat-houses  on  the  shore  have  to  be  built  far  above 
the  apparent  water-level,  and  are  neither  lovely  nor  logical 
in  appearance.  On  the  other  hand,  the  shores  of  the  lake  re- 
ceive an  annual  flushing  that  keeps  them  noticeably  clean. 

The  development  of  the  lake  as  a  summer  resort  offers  noth- 
ing notable.  Camps  and  hotels  have  gradually  risen  on  its 
shores,  but  they  have  come  slowly,  and  the  lake,  for  its  size, 
is  very  sparsely  settled.  It  has  realized  neither  the  dreams 
of  Dr.  Todd  nor  the  hopes  of  Amos  Dean.  The  reason  is  not 
far  to  seek,  perhaps.  Long  Lake  still  lies  twenty  miles  from 
the  nearest  railway,  and  far  from  the  beaten  track  of  the  im- 
proved highways.^  This  lack  of  easy  access,  and  the  resultant 
isolation,  is  considered  an  added  charm  by  many  of  its  camp- 
ers, however,  as  they  thereby  escape  many  aflflictions  of  ap- 
proachability. 

The  first  summer  campers  on  the  lake  were  ver>^  distin- 
guished men.  The  Rev.  Dr.  Joseph  T.  Duryea  of  Brooklyn, 
built  on  Buck  Mountain  Point  in  1874.  He  spent  most  of  his 
summers  there  until  his  death  in  1898.  He  was  eminent  as  a 
scholar,  a  worker,  and  a  speaker. 

During  the  Civil  War  he  had  charge  of  the  Eastern  Division 
of  the  United  States  Christian  Commission  which  was  organ- 
ized to  alleviate  sutforing  among  the  wounded  soldiers.     The 

iln  November,  1918.  the  people  approved  an  amendment  to  Sec.  7,  Art.  VII 
of  the  Constitution,  permitting  the  building,  across  State  lands  where  necessary, 
of  a  State  highway  from  Saranac  Lake  to  Long  Lake,  and  then  to  Old  Forge  by 
way  of  Blue  Mountain  and  Raquette  lakes.  This  will  put  Long  Lake  on  a  thor- 
oughfare connecting  the  present  excellent  highways  on  the  east^nd  west  side  of 
the  mountains,  and  make  it  much  more  accessible. 


78  A  HISTOKY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

doctor  ^s  splendid  work  in  this  field  brought  him  into  contact 
with  President  Lincoln,  and  an  intimate  friendship  resulted. 
On  one  occasion  the  President  asked  Dr.  Duryea  to  make  a 
speech  before  Congress,  and  his  inspired  eloquence  was  such 
that  he  held  not  only  his  audience  but  the  official  reporters 
spellbound.  Forty  of  them  sat  in  a  row  before  him,  and  all 
of  them  became  so  fascinated  by  the  speaker  that  they  forgot 
to  record  what  was  spoken.  Only  one,  who  had  come  late  and 
was  obliged  to  sit  behind  the  doctor,  carried  away  the  Gomplete 
record  of  his  speech. 

Princeton  University  owes  the  fact  that  it  is  in  existence 
to-day  to  Dr.  Duryea.  Before  the  Civil  War  its  support  came 
mainly  from  the  South,  and  when  this  source  of  revenue  was 
cut  off,  the  college  authorities  saw  no  alternative  to  closing 
their  doors  for  lack  of  funds.  Dr.  Duryea,  who  was  a  Prince- 
ton graduate,  heard  of  the  distress  of  his  alma  mater  and 
pledged  himself  to  find  relief.  Within  a  week  he  had  raised 
among  his  many  wealthy  friends  more  than  was  needed  to 
keep  the  institution  going.  In  return  for  this  great  service 
he  was  offered  the  presidency,  but  declined  on  the  ground  that 
he  felt  his  duty  to  lie  with  the  church  and  the  people.  To  both 
he  gave  so  unstinted  a  service  that  his  health  soon  became 
impaired,  and  only  his  frequent  recuperations  in  his  woodland 
home  prolonged  his  life.  His  daughter  Mary  married  Mr. 
Isaac  Robinson  of  Long  Lake,  and  still  lives  there.  To  her  I 
am  indebted  for  some  memories  of  her  youth  which  have  been 
embodied  in  this  chapter. 

At  the  time  Dr.  Duryea  first  built  on  the  laKe  Senator  Or- 
ville  H.  Piatt  of  Connecticut  had  a  hunting-lodge  on  the  oppo- 
site shore.  This  was  gradually  transformed  into  an  artistic 
camp  and  is  now  owned  by  Mr.  Harper  Silliman.  Senator 
Piatt  was  an  eminent  lawyer  and  statesman  whose  reputation 
as  an  able  thinker  and  constructive  fighter  extended  far  be- 
yond the  confines  of  his  own  State.  He  bore  a  conspicuous 
part  in  the  long  struggle  for  the  International  Copyright  Law, 
and  was  often  called  the  father  of  that  measure.  Many  peo- 
ple, on  having  ''Senator  Piatt's  camp"  pointed  out  to  them, 
have  not  unnaturally  assumed  that  it  belonged  to  the  New 
York  senator  Thomas  C.  Piatt,  the  political  boss,  whose  name 


LONG  LAKE  79 

was  more  familiar  in  this  State.  This  error  has  even  ap- 
peared in  print. ^ 

There  were  two  other  early  camps,  one  built  by  Dr.  Savage 
of  Albany,  on  an  island  near  Buck  Point,  and  the  other  by 
Mr.  George  E.  Terry  of  Waterbury,  Conn.,  farther  up  the 
lake. 

A  number  of  small  hotels  sprang  up,  of  course,  and  finally 
a  very  large,  ungainly,  and  conspicuous  one  was  built  on  a 
point  about  a  mile  above  the  village.  The  first  structure  on 
this  site  was  a  primitive  ai^air  erected  in  1885,  and  called 
''The  Sagamore."  This  was  burned  in  1889,  but  was  imme- 
diately replaced  by  the  New  Sagamore,  at  that  time  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  modern  hotels  in  the  woods. 

Nothing  of  greater  historical  interest  attaches  to  Long  Lake 
than  the  fact  that  the  Adirondack  guide-boat  was  evolved 
there.  Its  progenitors  were  Mitchell  Sabattis  and  one  of  the 
Palmers  who  saw  the  need  of  devising  something  sturdier  and 
swifter  than  the  canoe.  Their  joint  product  must  have  been 
put  in  use  as  early  as  1842,  for  that  was  the  date  of  Dr.  Todd's 
second  visit,  in  recounting  which  he  says:  ''We  procured  a 
little  boat,  such  a  one  as  a  man  can  carry  on  his  head  through 
the  woods,  from  river  to  river,  and  from  lake  to  lake."  He 
also  speaks  of  the  people  coming  to  church  in  their  "little 
boats,"  wliich  would  indicate  that  the  new  model  was  then  in 
general  use. 

It  differed  in  one  important  respect,  however,  from  the 
guide-boat  of  to-day.  It  had  a  square  stern,  but  the  disad- 
vantages of  this  feature  became  apparent  and  soon  disap- 
peared. This  modification,  and  many  a,  less  conspicuous  re- 
finement, was  tooled  into  the  craft  by  the  patient,  cunning 
hands  of  Caleb  Chase  of  Newoomb. 

Chase  was  taken  into  the  woods  when  he  was  only  twelve 
years  old,  in  1842,  and  he  stayed  there  for  the  rest  of  his  life. 
He  became  an  intimate  friend  and  an  adept  pupil  in  woodcraft 
of  Mitchell  Sabattis.     Out  of  this  intimacy  grew  the  sugges- 

1  In  the  report  of  the  Special  Committee  appointed  in  1808  to  investigate  the 
purchase  of  forest  lands — Assembly  Document  No.  43,  p.  77 — occurs  the  following 
in  connection  with  a  description  of  Lono:  Lake:  ''Along-  its  banks  are  built 
many  private  camps  which  are  very  attractive.  Amono;  those  specially  noted  by 
the  Republicans  of  our  committee  was  that  of  Senator  Thomas  C.  Piatt." 


80  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

tion  that  there  might  be  a  living  in  making-  the  new  kind  of 
boat  for  which  the  demand  was  constantly  growing.  Chase 
built  himself  a  modest  little  workshop  at  Newcomb  in  1850, 
and  for  the  next  forty  years  he  turned  out  a  product  that  was 
considered  the  best  of  its  kind.  A  Chase  boat  in  the  woods 
ranked  with  a  Brewster  buggy  in  the  city.  Only  one  impor- 
tant improvement  was  made  in  them  which  he  did  not  origi- 
nate, and  that  was  the  decrease  in  weight  which  wa-s  success- 
fully inaugurated  by  ''Willie  Allen's  egg-shells."  ^ 

1  See  Chap.  XXIV,  under  "William  A.  Martin." 


s 


St 

O    tf. 


CHAPTER  XXXV 

MITCHELL  SABATTIS 

LONG  LAKE  was  formerly  noted  for  the  number  and 
quality  of  its  guides,  due  largely,  no  doubt,  to  the  early 
settlement  there.  The  following  names  were  familiar  to  all 
the  early  sportsmen  in  that  section:  John  E.  and  Jerry 
Plumbley,  Amos  Hough,  Henry  Stanton,  Isaac,  John,  and 
Amos  Robinson,  Alonzo  Wood,  Reuben  Gary,  and  Mitchell 
Sabattis  and  his  sons. 

Mitchell  Sabattis  had  a  remarkable  ancestry  and  a  notable 
career.  His  father  was  Captain  Peter  Sabattis,  who  is  said  to 
have  been  born  in  1750.  According  to  this  he  attained  the  re- 
markable age  of  one  hundred  and  eleven  years,  for  he  died  at 
Long  Lake  in  1861.  He  kept  the  record  of  his  later  years  on  a 
notched  stick  which  he  always  carried  with  him.  The  date  of 
his  birth  may  not  have  been  quite  so  early  as  he  placed  it,  but 
he  certainly  lived  to  be  a  very  old  man,  and  was  noted  for  his 
clear  and  accurate  memory.  He  was  a  pure-blooded  Indian  of 
the  Huron  tribe,  and  his  Indian  name  was  Pierjoun.  He 
was  a  stanch  friend  of  the  white  men,  however,  and  fought 
with  them  in  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812.  He  became 
widely  known  for  his  truthfulness  and  reliability,  as  well  as 
for  his  remarkable  abilities  as  a  hunter  and  trapper.  He  had 
his  eccentricities,  however,  and  one  of  them  w^as  the  boast  that, 
in  an  unusually  long  life,  he  had  never  slept  in  a  white  man's 
bed.  He  would  accept  all  other  hospitality,  but  when  night 
came  he  persistently  stuck  to  his  whim.  In  mild  weather  he 
would  sleep  out  of  doors ;  in  cold,  he  would  lie  down  in  front 
of  the  kitchen  stove,  with  a  log  of  wood  for  a  pillow. 

We  get  an  all  too  fleeting  but  interesting  glimpse  of  ''Cap- 
tain Peter"  in  J.  T.  Headley's  ''Letters  from  the  Back- 
woods," published  in  1850.  Headley  spent  the  summers  of 
1846  and  1847  in  the  Adirondacks,  and  on  both  occasions 
Mitchell  Sabattis  was  one  of  his  guides.     Returning  to  camp 

81 


82  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

one  night,  they  found  his  aged  father  and  young  sister  await- 
ing his  arrival.  ''Old  Peter,"  writes  Headley,  "as  he  is 
called,  had  come,  with  liis  daughter,  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
in  a  bark  canoe,  to  visit  him.  The  old  man,  now  over  eighty 
years  of  age,  shook  with  palsy,  and  was  constantly  muttering 
to  himself  in  a  language  half  French,  half  Indian,  while  his 
daughter,  scarce  twenty  years  old,  was  silent  as  a  statue. 
This  old  man  still  roams  the  forest,  and  stays  where  night 
overtakes  him."  Headley  goes  on  to  describe  his  decrepit 
and  failing  condition,  and  to  marvel  at  the  force  of  habit  that 
impelled  him  to  wander  about  the  woods  when  more  than  one 
roof  would  gladly  have  given  him  shelter  and  comfort.  If  he 
was  born  in  1750,  he  must  have  been  ninety-six  years  old  when 
Headley  saw  him.  This  would  better  account  for  the  Cap- 
tain's palsied  condition,  for  other  writers  say  he  was  vigorous 
at  ninety. 

Captain  Peter's  w^fe  died  early  in  the  last  century,  and  was 
buried  on  an  island  at  the  lower  end  of  Long  Lake.  The  site 
of  her  grave  was  knowm  to  her  son  Mitchell,  who  pointed  it 
out  to  others.  She  had  four  children  by  the  Captain,  three 
sons  and  one  daughter. 

The  eldest  one  Solomon  went  through  college  and  turned 
out  a  rascal.  This  dampened  the  father's  enthusiasm  for  edu- 
cation, and  the  other  children  w^ere  not  hampered  by  it.  The 
second  child  was  a  daughter  Hannah.  She  grew  up  to  be  a 
beautiful  girl,  but  modified  none  of  her  Indian  traits.  She 
was  shy  and  silent  before  strangers,  but  wild  and  fearless  in 
the  woods.  She  became  the  inseparable  companion  of  her 
aged  father,  and  roamed  and  lived  with  him  in  the  woods  until 
he  died.  It  was  Hannah  whom  Headley  saw.  The  third  child 
was  Mitchell.  A  fourth,  named  Charles,  was  a  cripple  and 
died  before  reaching  manhood. 

It  is  impossible  to  say  just  w^hen  Mitchell  Sabattis  was 
born.  There  is  no  record  of  the  date,  and  his  family  do  not 
know  it.  It  is  highly  doubtful  if  he  knew  it  himself.  Even 
his  most  intimate  friend  the  Rev.  Robert  Shaw,  pastor  emeri- 
tus of  the  Methodist  Church  at  Long  Lake,  did  not  know  it. 
In  his  funeral  oration  at  the  grave  of  his  long-time  chum,  he 
spoke  of  him  as  being  ''some  eighty-odd  years  old."    The 


MITCHELL  SABATTIS  83 

obituaries  and  guide-books  give  various  dates,  some  of  them 
being  twenty  years  apart. 

I  am  inclined  to  place  the  date  around  1801.  Professor 
Chittenden  (in  his  ''Reminiscences")  speaks  of  Mitchell  Sa- 
battis  being  eighty-four  years  old  when  he  last  saw  him  in 
1885.  The  place  of  his  birth  is  unanimously  agreed  upon  as 
Parishville,  St.  Lawrence  County.  He  died  at  Long  Lake, 
April  16,  1906.  In  1886  he  had  a  stroke  which  left  him  some- 
what crippled,  but  he  continued  to  do  light  guiding  for  several 
years. 

He  was  a  pure-blooded  Indian  of  the  Abenaki  tribe  (Algic. 
family),  and,  at  the  time  of  his  death,  was  the  oldest,  if  not 
the  only,  descendant  of  his  race  living  in  the  Adirondacks. 
He  was  intelligently  versed  in  the  Abenaki  language  and  the 
Indian  nomenclature  of  the  region,  much  of  which  originated 
mth  him  and  his  congeners.  He  was  sought  by  the  foremost 
students  of  Indian  names,  and  his  opinions  are  quoted  as  au- 
thoritative. In  1900  he  was  visited  by  Professor  J.  Dyneley 
Prince  of  Columbia,  whose  resultant  paper  is  mentioned  in 
Chapter  VII,  ''Adirondack  Names." 

Sabattis  was  a  small  man  and  of  slight  stature;  gentle,  un- 
assuming, and  reticent  in  manner,  but  having  the  strength  and 
endurance  of  tempered  steel  in  action.  His  knowledge  of 
woodcraft  amounted  to  animal  instinct.  In  the  woods  he 
saw  and  heard  and  reasoned  with  a  refinement  that  was  un- 
canny. The  stories  of  the  big  game  he  killed,  of  his  coolness 
and  resourcefulness  in  danger  and  dilemma,  would  fill  a 
volume. 

Soon  after  settling  near  Long  Lake,  he  married  Betsey 
Joinburgh,  of  Dutch  descent.  By  her  he  had  a  large  family. 
Two  or  three  children  died  in  infancy,  but  eight  of  them  grew 
up  to  be  a  credit  to  their  worthy  parents.  Soon  after  marry- 
ing, Sabattis  came  face  to  face  with  a  crisis  in  his  life.  His 
one  failing  was  a  periodical  addiction  to  drink.  How  he  de- 
cided to  battle  against  it  will  be  told  later.  He  won  a  com- 
plete victory,  and  naturally  came  out  of  the  struggle  a  better 
and  stronger  man.  From  that  moment,  indeed,  he  became 
noted,  not  only  for  his  skill  in  woodcraft,  but  for  a  genuine 
religious  fervor. 


84  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

He  had  evidently  joined  the  church  at  an  early  date,  for 
Dr.  Todd  speaks  of  ''my  young  friend  Sabatas,  a  noble  young 
Indian  man,  whose  violin  leads  the  music  in  public  worship." 
After  his  conversion  from  drink  he  became  the  very  pillar  and 
prop  of  Long  Lake's  religious  activities.  In  1865  the  Wes- 
leyan  Methodists  decided  to  build  a  church,  and  Sabattis 
undertook  to  raise  the  funds  for  it.  He  had  guided  and  be- 
come the  friend  of  well-known  ministers  from  Boston,  Pitts- 
field,  New  York,  and  Philadelpliia.  He  went  to  these  men 
now,  and  they  allowed  him  to  speak  before  their  congregations 
and  make  a  plea  for  the  funds  he  wished  to  raise.  He  re- 
turned from  this  trip  with  $2,000  for  the  new  church.  After 
it  was  built  he  often  preached  in  it,  and  so,  though  never  or- 
dained, he  was  often  spoken  of  as  ''the  Reverend  Sabattis." 
But  he  was  more  than  a  preacher,  he  was  a  practiser,  and  won 
the  sincere  esteem  and  respect  of  all  kinds  and  conditions  of 
men. 

The  two  writers  who  have  the  most  to  say  of  him  are  J.  T. 
Headley  and  L.  E.  Chittenden.  The  former  has  this  to  say 
on  parting  from  him  for  the  last  time : 

I  shook  his  honest  hand  with  as  much  regret  as  I  ever  did  that  of  a 
white  man.  I  shall  long  remember  him.  He  is  a  man  of  deeds  and 
not  of  words — kind,  gentle,  delicate  in  his  feelings,  honest  and  true  as 
steel. 

A  more  extended  glimpse  is  given  by  L.  E.  Chittenden,  in 
his  "Personal  Reminiscences,"  published  by  Richmond,  Gros- 
cup  &  Co.,  New  York,  in  1893.  These  reminiscences  extend 
from  1840  to  1890.  In  the  late  fifties  the  author  visited  the 
woods,  and  there  is  a  chapter  called  "Adirondack  Days,"  and 
another,  "The  Story  of  ]\Iitchell  Sabattis."  The  first  chap- 
ter closes  with  these  words : 

In  those  deliirhtful  five  weeks  I  formed  an  attachment  for  these 
guides  (Mitchell  Sabattis  and  Alonzo  Wctherby)  which  lasted  as  Ions: 
as  they  lived.  From  Wetherby,  and  later  from  others,  I  learned  that 
Sabattis  was  a  generous  fellow  whom  every  one  liked,  but  he  would 
get  drunk  upon  every  opportunity,  and  then  he  was  a  madman.  His 
wife  was  a  worthy  white  woman.     They  had  five  children.     The  sons 


MITCHELL  SABATTIS  85 

were  as  skilled  in  woodcraft  as  their  father,  and  inherited  the  excellent 
qualities  of  their  mother.  One  of  them  grew  up  with  the  figure  of 
Apollo,  and  when  I  last  saw  him  I  thought  that  physically  he  was 
the  most  perfect  man  I  had  ever  seen. 

Then  follows  the  interesting  story  of  Mitchell's  conversion 
and  redemption  from  drink. 

Chittenden  spent  the  last  night  of  his  outing  at  Mitchell's 
home  in  Newcomb.  He  saw  that  both  husband  and  wife  were 
greatly  worried  over  something,  and  he  induced  them  to  tell 
him  the  reason.  There  was  a  mortgage  upon  their  little  house 
and  farm.  It  was  due  and  had  been  called.  They  could  not 
pay  it,  and  were  to  be  sold  out  in  a  few  weeks. 

The  next  morning,  just  before  leaving,  Professor  Chitten- 
den said  to  Mitchell : 

''What  would  you  give  to  one  who  would  buy  your  mort- 
gage and  give  you  time  in  which  to  pay  it  ? " 

''I  would  give  my  life,"  he  exclaimed,  "the  day  after  I  had 
paid  the  debt.  I  would  give  it  now  if  I  could  leave  this  little 
place  to  Bessie  and  her  children." 

Chittenden  told  him  it  would  not  cost  so  much — that  he 
would  buy  the  mortgage  if  ^fitchell  would  promise  to  give  up 
drinking,  and  agree  to  meet  him  at  "Bartlett's"  the  following 
August. 

He  promised  instantly,  solemnly.  He  rose  from  his  chair.  I 
thought  he  looked  every  inch  the  chief  which  by  birth  he  claimed  to 
be,  as  he  said:  "You  may  think  you  cannot  trust  me,  but  you  can. 
Sabattis  when  he  w^as  sober  never  told  a  lie.  He  will  never  lie  to  his 
friend!"  For  a  few  minutes  there  was  in  that  humble  room  a  very 
touching  scene.  The  Indian  silent,  solemn,  but  for  the  speaking  arm 
thrown  lovingly  around  the  neck  of  his  wife,  apparently  motionless — 
the  wife  trying  to  say  through  her  tears. 

"I  told  you,  you  could  trust  Mitchell!  He  will  keep  his  promise — 
he  will  never  get  drunk  again.  I  know  him  so  well.  I  am  certain  he 
will  not  drink,  and  we  shall  be  so  happy.  Oh!  I  am  the  happiest 
woman  alive!" 

"Well!  well!"  I  said,  "let  us  hope  for  the  best;  we  must  wait  and 
see.  Mitchell,  remember  the  second  of  next  August— Bartlett 's— and 
in  the  meantime  no  whiskey ! ' '    And  so  we  parted. 


86  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

On  his  way  through  Elizabethtown,  Chittenden  bought  an 
assignment  of  the  mortgage,  carried  it  home,  put  it  away,  and 
virtually  forgot  about  it. 

The  following  February,  late  one  night,  Sabattis  turned  up 
at  Chittenden's  home  in  Burlington.  He  came  in  a  hand- 
made sled,  drawn  by  two  borrowed  horses.  The  route  had 
been  by  way  of  CroAvn  Point,  and  the  distance  covered  not  less 
than  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The  sled  was  heavily 
loaded  with  various  kinds  of  food,  game,  and  valuable  skins, 
which  were  offered  as  a  present.  The  Indian  also  had  part  of 
the  principal  of  his  mortgage  in  his  pocket.  He  reported  the 
best  hunting-season  he  had  ever  had,  and  that  not  a  drop  of 
whisky  had  passed  his  lips.  lie  was  cordially  received,  of 
course,  and  after  a  pleasant  visit  of  a  few  days,  he  started 
home  again — a  very  happy  man. 

On  the  second  of  August  following,  Chittenden  landed  at 
*'Bartlett's,"  and  there  were  Mitchell  and  Alonzo  waiting  for 
him.    As  he  says: 

There  was  no  need  to  ask  Mitchell  if  he  had  kept  his  promise.  His 
eye  was  as  clear  and  keen  as  that  of  a  goshawk.  The  muscles  visible 
in  their  action  under  his  transparent  dark  skin,  his  voice,  ringing 
■with  cheerfulness,  all  told  of  a  healthy  body  and  a  sound  mind.  His 
wife,  he  said,  had  her  house  filled  with  boarders,  his  oldest  son  had 
been  employed  as  a  guide  for  the  entire  season,  and  prosperity  shone 
upon  the  Sabattis  household. 

This  was  the  summer  of  1860,  and  Chittenden  did  not  return 
to  the  woods  again  till  1885.  Long  before  that,  however,  Sa- 
battis had  paid  off  his  mortgage  in  full.  On  this  last  trip 
Chittenden  stopped  at  a  hotel  thirty  miles  from  Long  Lake. 
Here  he  heard  the  subsequent  story  of  his  old  guide,  which  he 
relates  as  follows : 

He  had  never  broken  his  promise  to  me.  He  united  with  the  Meth- 
odist Church  and  became  one  of  its  leaders,  and  in  a  few  years  was 
the  leading  citizen  in  the  Long  Lake  settlement.  In  worldly  matters 
he  prospered.  His  wife  kept  a  favorite  resort  for  summer  visitors. 
Their  children  were  educated,  the  daughters  married  well — two  of  the 
sons  served  their  country  with  courage  and  gallantry  through  the  war, 
returned  home  uuwounded,  ^^^th  honorable  discharges,  and  now  guided 


MITCHELL  SABATTIS  87 

in  summer  and  built  Adirondack  boats  in  the  winter.  Mitchell,  now 
a  hale  and  healthy  veteran  of  eighty-four  years,  still  lived  at  Long 
Lake  in  the  very  house  of  which  I  was  once  the  mortgagee. 

The  next  morning  I  heard  a  light  step  on  the  uncarpeted  hall  and 
a  knock  at  my  door.  I  opened  it  and  Sabattis  entered.  He  was  as 
glad  to  see  me  as  I  was  to  grasp  his  true  and  honest  hand.  But  I  was 
profoundly  surprised.  Had  the  world  with  him  stood  still !  He  did 
not  look  a  day  older  than  when  I  last  saw  him,  more  than  twenty-five 
years  ago.  The  same  keen,  clear  eye,  transparent  skin  with  the  play 
of  the  muscles  under  it,  the  same  elastic  step,  ringing  voice  and  kindly 
heart.  His  eye  was  not  dim  nor  his  natural  force  abated.  We  spent 
a  memorable  day  together — at  nightfall  we  parted  forever.  Not  long 
afterward  he  died  full  of  years,  full  of  honors,  that  noblest  work  of 
God,  an  honest  man. 

Sabattis  strongly  resembled,  both  in  manner  and  appear- 
ance, his  contemporary  John  Cheney.  Both  were  small  and 
slight  of  stature,  gentle  and  unassuming  in  manners,  but  when 
roused  had  the  strength  and  agility  of  the  tiger.  Both  had 
exceptional  traits  of  character,  as  well  as  exceptional  gifts  for 
woodcraft.  They  were  both  leading  experts  of  their  day  and 
guild — and  these  woods  will  probably  never  look  upon  their 
like  again. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI 
RAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES 

RAQUETTE  LAKE  lies  very  near  the  actual  center  of 
the  Adirondacks,  in  Township  40,  Totten  and  Crossfield 
Purchase.  The  origin  of  the  name  has  been  discussed  in 
Chapter  VI.  The  lake  is  about  six  miles  long  and  in  some 
places  almost  as  Avide,  for  its  irregular  shape  may  be  com- 
pared to  a  starfish.  It  is  full  of  long  promontories  and  deep 
bays,  and  its  zigzagging  shore-line  is  said  to  measure  over 
forty  miles. 

The  first  settler  on  the  lake  was  Josiah  Wood,  who  came  to 
the  place  in  1846.  He  built  a  cabin  on  the  point  that  still  bears 
the  family  name,  and  here  the  first  white  child  on  the  lake  was 
bom  in  December,  1848.  This  w^as  Jerome  Wood,  who  still 
(1920)  spends  his  summers  on  Big  Island. 

About  a  year  after  Josiah  Wood  moved  in,  his  brother  Wil- 
liam and  a  friend,  Matthew  Beach,  both  single  men,  arrived  on 
the  scene  and  built  separate  cabins  for  themselves  on  Indian 
Point.  William  Wood,  owing  to  a  distressing  accident,  be- 
came a  local  freak  and  curiosity. 

He  was  tending  a  trap  line  one  winter  and  had  both  his 
feet  so  completely  frozen  that  they  gradually  sloughed  off. 
Undaunted  by  this  mishap,  however,  he  made  leather  pads  for 
his  knees,  on  which  he  began  stumping  around.  This  worked 
well  enough  indoors,  but  not  in  the  snow.  His  next  move, 
therefore,  was  to  attach  snow-shoes  to  his  stumps.  This  he 
did  successfully,  and  soon  became  so  expert  on  them  that,  to- 
ward the  end  of  the  winter,  he  hobbled  out  of  the  woods  to  the 
nearest  settlement,  some  forty  miles  away.  He  had  no  inten- 
tion of  retiring  as  a  pioneer,  however.  After  securing  some 
improved  leather  pads  and  some  special  straps  for  his  snow- 
shoes,  he  returned  to  the  quiet  of  his  Raquctte  home,  and  lived 
there  happily  for  many  years.  He  trapped,  hunted,  fished, 
and  even  cut  trees,  with  all  the  dexterity  of  a  normal  biped. 


RAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES   89 

The  Woods  and  Beach- appear  to  have  been  the  only  settlers 
on  the  lake  for  several  years.  At  all  events,  the  next  record 
of  interest  concerns  a  man  named  Wilbur,  who  built  a  primi- 
tive hotel  about  a  mile  above  the  outlet  of  Raquette  Lake,  in 
1857.  He  called  it  the  ''Kaquette  Lake  House,"  and  it  re- 
mained open  for  sixteen  years.  During  this  period,  however, 
it  changed  hands  several  times.  It  passed  from  Wilbur  to 
Cyrus  Kellogg,  then  to  Thomas  R.  Carey,  and  finally  to  Reu- 
ben Carey. 

Mr.  Durant,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  much  kindly  help 
connected  with  this  chapter,  has  loaned  me,  among  other 
papers,  a  copy  of  the  register  of  the  Raquette  Lake  House.  It 
offers  much  of  historical  interest.  It  shows  that  a  surprising 
number  of  people,  including  ladies,  were  passing  that  way  at 
a  very  early  date.  During  the  summer  of  1857  there  was  a 
total  of  forty-four  guests.  The  first  to  arrive  were  Alfred  G. 
Compton  and  Thomas  M.  Barton  from  New  York,  under  date 
of  August  4th.  The  next  entry  is  on  iVugust  13th,  when  half 
a  dozen  names  are  bracketed  together  as  coming  from  Yale. 
On  August  20th  twelve  names  appear,  among  them  those 
of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Charles  Loring  Brace,  whose  early  connec- 
tion with  the  woods  has  been  previously  commented  upon  in 
Chapter  XXVIII.  Mrs.  Brace  is  the  first  and  only  lady  to 
be  registered  in  1857.^  In  1858,  how^ever,  the  names  of  three 
other  ladies  appear,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brace  are  registered 
for  the  second  and  last  time.  The  total  of  guests  for  that 
season  was  seventy-five.  It  continued  to  increase  in  about 
the  same  ratio  each  year,  and  the  sprinkling  of  ladies  grew 
proportionately. 

This  patronage  seems  so  large  for  the  time  and  place,  that 
it  is  surprising  to  leani  that  the  Raquette  Lake  House  closed 
its  doors  in  the  autumn  of  1873,  and  remained  vacant  for 
several  years.  In  1878  part  of  the  old  log  structure  was 
moved  over  to  the  Forked  Lake  end  of  the  carry  on  which  it 
stood.  Here  it  was  slightly  enlarged,  and  opened  as  the 
''Forked  Lake  House."  It  was  run  by  George  Leavitt,  an  old 
lumberman  from  Friend's  Lake,  Warren  County.     Later  it 

lit  was  in  1855  that  Lady  Amelia  M.  Murray  made  lier  trip  through  the 
mountains,  two  years  before  the  hotel  in  question  was  built. 


90  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

was  bought  by  John  G.  Holland  and  Dr.  Martine,  his  brother- 
in-law,  who  leased  it  to  a  man  named  Fletcher.  As  ''Fletch- 
er's" it  became  well  known  and  popular. 

In  1865  Alvah  Dunning  (whose  storj^  is  told  in  the  next 
chapter)  established  his  headquarters  on  Raquette  Lake,  and 
Adirondack  Murray  ^  began  frequenting  it  the  following  year. 

In  the  late  sixties  Dr.  Thomas  C.  Durant  began  building  his 
Adirondack  Railroad  from  Saratoga  to  North  Creek.^  This 
took  him  into  the  woods  on  exploring  expeditions,  for  he 
wished  to  have  first-hand  knowledge  of  the  country  he  in- 
tended to  open  and  planned  to  develop.  No  man  was  more 
fitted  for  such  an  undertaking,  for  he  was  one  of  the  most 
far-sighted,  dynamic,  and  successful  promoters  of  his  day. 

Thomas  C.  Durant  was  born  in  Lee,  Mass.,  in  1820.  He  was 
graduated  from  the  Albany  Medical  College  in  1841,  and  prac- 
tised as  a  surgeon  for  a  few  years.  His  ardent  and  adven- 
turous spirit  soon  tired  of  professional  routine,  however,  and 
he  turned  to  business.  He  became  a  partner  in  the  firm  of 
Durant,  Lathrop  &  Co.,  of  Albany,  who  carried  on  a  large 
European  trade.  In  1848  he  became  interested  in  railroad 
development  in  the  West.  He  was  prominent  in  organizing 
and  building  the  Michigan  Southern,  the  Chicago  and  Rock 
Island,  and  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  railroads.  During 
these  activities  he  conceived  with  others  the  possibility  of 
building  a  great  trunk-line  across  the  continent,  and  he  became 
one  of  the  most  active  and  enthusiastic  promoters  of  the  Union 
Pacific.  From  1861  to  the  driving  of  the  last  spike  in  this 
great  romance  of  railroading,  he  was  vice-president  and  gen- 
eral manager  of  the  enterprise,  and  acting  president  most  of 
the  time.  After  completing  this  colossal  work  he  became 
interested  in  the  Adirondack  Railroad  and  the  allied  develop- 
ments to  be  recorded  here. 

In  1847  he  married  Heloise  Hannah  Timbrel  of  England. 
He  died  at  North  Creek  in  1885,  and  left  a  widow,  a  daughter 
Heloise  Durant  Rose,  and  one  son  William  West  Durant. 

The  latter  was  born  in  Brooklyn,  in  1850.  He  succeeded  his 
father  as  president  of  the  Adirondack  Railroad,  and  carried 

1  See  Chap.  XVII,  "Adirondack  Murray." 

2  See  Chap.  XL,  "Railroads." 


RAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES   91 

on  his  many  development  schemes  with  an  enthusiasm  born  of 
genuine  delight  in  the  woods.  He  added  whole  townships  to 
his  inherited  land  holdings ;  he  built  the  first  artistic  camps  the 
woods  had  ever  seen,  and  opened  up  the  Raquette  Lake  region 
by  facilities  of  transportation  unknown  before.  Indeed,  he 
was  conspicuously  the  developer  of  the  central  Adirondacks. 
From  1885  to  1900  he  enjoyed  an  unrivaled  regency  of  promi- 
nence and  popularity.  He  entertained  largely  and  royally, 
and  made  a  name  for  himself  as  a  pioneer  woodland  host.  He 
was  the  first  to  make  his  summer  quarters  comfortable  for 
winter  pleasures,  and  to  use  them  for  that  purpose.  He  was 
the  first  to  ask  his  friends  to  travel  north  by  train  and  then  by 
sleigh  over  forty  miles  of  snow  and  ice  for  the  novelty  of 
eating  Christmas  dinner  in  the  wilderness.  He  was,  in  short, 
the  first  to  inaugurate  many  things  which  had  never  been 
dreamed  of  in  the  Adirondacks  before. 

When  he  was  not  in  the  woods,  he  was  often  carrjdng  an 
Adirondack  name  around  the  world  in  his  sea-going  steam- 
yacht  the  Utowana  which  he  navigated  himself.  His  life  of 
these  years,  therefore,  was  spent  between  the  deep  sea  and  the 
deep  woods.  The  reefs  of  disaster  lay  on  the  landward 
course,  however.  His  widely  extended  and  interlocking  inter- 
ests were  adversely  affected  by  the  death  of  his  friend  and 
prospective  associate,  Mr.  Collis  P.  Huntington,  who  died 
very  suddenly  at  Camp  Pine  Knot,  in  1899.  At  tliis  time  Mr. 
Durant  had  also  become  involved  in  a  protracted  lawsuit 
brought  by  his  sister  Mrs.  Rose  over  the  settlement  of  their 
father's  estate.  The  courts  awarded  Mrs.  Rose  a  heavy  judg- 
ment.  The  thickening  of  these  complications  forced  Mr. 
Durant  to  dispose  gradually  of  all  his  Adirondack  properties. 

In  1884  he  married  Miss  Janet  L.  Stott,  a  daughter  of  Com- 
modore Stott  of  Stottville.  She  sued  for  a  divorce,  and  was 
granted  a  decree  in  1898.  Several  years  later  Mr.  Durant 
married  again,  and  is  now  (1920)  living  and  engaged  in  busi- 
ness in  New  York. 

Among  the  many  notable  things  that  he  did  for  the  Adiron- 
dacks, nothing  has  greater  historical  interest  than  the  building 
of  his  once  famous  home  on  Raquette  Lake — Camp  Pine  Knot. 
This  was  the  first  of  the  artistic  and  luxurious  camps  that  are 


92  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

so  numerous  to-day  that  the  story  of  their  multiplication 
might  fittingly  bear  the  title  ''Camps  Is  Camps."  But  when 
Pine  Knot  rose  amid  the  stately  trees  on  the  lone  shore  of 
Eaquette  Lake,  it  was  a  now  and  unique  blend  of  beauty  and 
of  comfort.  It  became  the  show  place  of  the  woods.  Men 
took  a  circuitous  route  in  order  to  gain  a  glimpse  of  it,  and 
to  have  been  a  guest  within  its  timbered  walls  and  among  its 
woodland  fancies  was  to  wear  the  hall-mark  of  the  envied. 

Camp  Pine  Knot  had  two  phases.  Dr.  Durant  had  taken  an 
early  fancy  to  Long  Point,  on  which  it  w^as  built.  Charlie 
Bennett  at  the  time  was  trying  to  secure  from  the  State  this 
and  adjoining  lands  on  the  lake,  and  Dr.  Durant,  who  was  fa- 
miliar with  the  ropes  at  Albany,  offered  to  assist  him  there, 
provided  he  would  cede  him  the  coveted  point.  The  deal  went 
through  and  each  secured  what  he  wanted.  The  first  build- 
ings to  be  put  up  on  the  point  were  very  simple  one-story 
affairs,  making  no  bid  for  beauty  and  only  a  modest  one  for 
comfort.  While  they  were  building,  one  of  the  family  ran 
across  a  wonderful  pine  knot  on  the  shore  of  the  lake.  It  was 
shaped  like  the  hilt  of  a  sword,  and  measured  some  three  feet 
across.  This  curious  relic  of  the  forest  was  made  an  orna- 
ment of  the  camp  and  suggested  its  name. 

The  next  phase  of  Camp  Pine  Knot  was  the  tearing  doAvn  of 
the  plain  original  buildings  and  their  gradual  replacement  by 
eminently  beautiful  ones.  These  w^ere  conceived,  designed, 
and  begun  by  Mr.  William  West  Durant  in  1879.  In  planning 
them  he  had  the  happy  inspiration  to  combine  the  Adirondack 
features  of  the  crude  log  cabin  with  the  long  low  lines  of  the 
graceful  Swiss  chalet.  From  this  pleasing  blend  there  sprang 
a  distinctive  school  of  Adirondack  architecture,  and  "Pine 
Knot"  became  the  prototype  of  the  modern  Camp  Beautiful. 
Before  it  was  built  there  was  nothing  like  it;  since  then,  de- 
spite infinite  variations,  there  has  been  nothing  essentially 
different  from  it. 

Pine  Knot  kept  constantly  growing  and  ultimately  became 
a  cluster  of  buildings,  large  and  small,  connected  and  de- 
taclied.  One  of  the  latter  was  unique.  It  was  a  pretty  bark 
cabin,  built  on  a  raft  of  pine  logs,  and  moored  near  the  boat- 
house.    It  was  used  as  a  guest-room  and  was  called  the  ''float- 


KAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES   93 

iiig  annex."  It  was  later  supplanted  by  an  elaborate  scow 
house-boat,  containing  four  rooms,  a  kitchen,  bath,  and  run- 
ning water.  This  was  by  far  the  most  luxurious  thing  of  the 
kind  that  ever  floated  on  Adirondack  waters,  and  it  was  called 
the  ''Barque  of  Camp  Pine  Knot."  It  was  sold  with  the 
camp  to  Mr.  Collis  P.  Huntington  in  1895. 

After  building  this  camp  Mr.  Durant  began  acquiring  large 
tracts  of  land.  He  never  owaied  more  of  Township  40  (which 
contains  Eaquette  Lake)  than  the  Pine  Knot  point,  but  he 
bought  all  of  the  adjoining  Townships  34  and  6,  and  part  of 
No.  5.  These  are  in  Hamilton  County  in  the  Totten  and 
Crossfield  Purchase.  He  also  bought  lands  in  Township  28, 
Essex  County,  containing  Rich  Lake  and  Arbutus  Lake,  and 
other  lesser  tracts,  so  that  in  his  day  he  was  probably  the 
owner  of  nearly  a  million  acres  of  Adirondack  real  estate. 
Township  34  contained  the  Eckford  Chain  of  lakes.  In  Town- 
ship 6  was  Shedd  Lake  (now  Sagamore)  and  Sumner  Lake 
(now  Lake  Kora).  In  Township  5  lay  Mohegan  Lake  (now 
Uncas).  On  the  shores  of  this  tiny,  toy-like  lake  in  the  deep- 
est depths  of  the  forest,  Mr.  Durant  built  a  most  wonderful 
camp  in  1890.  Owing  to  its  utter  isolation  it  was  seldom  seen 
and  but  little  known,  and  yet  it  was  more  massively  beautiful 
and  more  cunningly  luxurious  than  even  Pine  Knot.  It  was 
called  "Camp  Uncas,"  and  was  sold  to  the  senior  J.  Pierpont 
Morgan  in  1895. 

In  1893  picturesque  hunting-lodges  were  built  at  Shedd 
Lake  and  Sumner  Lake.  These  were  soon  enlarged  into  elab- 
orate camps.  Shedd  Lake  (now  Sagamore)  was  sold  in  1901 
to  the  late  Alfred  G.  Vanderbilt,  whose  widow,  Mrs.  Raymond 
T.  Baker,  now  owns  and  occupies  it  (1920).  Sumner  Lake 
(now  Lake  Kora)  was  sold  in  1896  to  the  late  Governor  Tim- 
othy L.  Woodruff.  It  is  now  owned  by  the  Hon.  Francis  P. 
Garvin,  Alien  Property  Custodian,  who  has  spent  large  sums 
of  money  on  the  place  and  made  it  one  of  the  most  expensive 
camps  in  the  Adirondacks. 

Let  us  now  turn  from  this  unique  record  of  camp-building  to 
a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  general  developments  in  the  region. 
In  1877 — the  year  in  which  the  first  Pine  Knot  was  built — Dr. 
Durant  established  a  line*  of  four  and  six-horse   Concord 


94  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

coaches  from  the  terminus  of  the  railroad  at  North  Creek  to 
Bhie  Mountain  Lake,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles.  From  there 
to  Eaquette  Lake,  twelve  miles,  he  established  a  line  of  row- 
boats.  He  also  stimulated  and  encouraged  the  building  of 
stopping-places  along  this  route.  All  the  improvements  in 
travel  and  comfort  which  the  elder  Durant  inaugurated  were 
energetically  furthered  and  perfected  by  his  son. 

The  latter  supplanted  the  rowboat  line  by  several  steam- 
boats, some  capable  of  carrying  two  hundred  passengers. 
Later  he  built  a  road  between  Raquette  and  Blue  Mountain 
lakes.  In  1889  he  established  the  first  post-office  on  Raquette 
Lake,  and  became  the  first  postmaster.  He  organized  and 
was  president  of  the  Adirondack,  Lake  George,  and  Saratoga 
Telegraph  Company,  which  ran  its  wires  from  North  Creek 
into  the  lake  region.  He  constructed  a  golf-course  on  Eagle 
Lake,  near  the  site  of  Ned  Buntline's  old  log  cabin.  It  was 
opened  by  the  champion  Harry  Vardon  in  1899. 

As  early  as  1883  he  raised  and  contributed  money  to  build 
the  Episcopal  Church  of  the  IMission  of  the  Good  Shepherd  on 
St.  Hubert's  Isle  in  Raquette  Lake.  Later  he  built  and  do- 
nated a  charming  little  rectory.  Both  buildings  were  of 
pleasing  rustic  design,  and  this  island  church  became  one  of 
the  unique  features  of  life  on  the  lake.  The  scene  of  a  bright 
Sunday  morning,  when  the  boats  gathered  from  far  and  near, 
filled  with  worshipers  in  gay  apparel,  was  highly  picturesque 
and  gave  church-going  the  novel  charm  of  a  devotional  outing 
to  a  shrine  of  God-tinged  beauty. 

Mr.  Durant  also  built  a  church  for  the  Catholics,  near  the 
site  of  the  Raquette  Lake  post-office.  He  also  gave  to  them, 
and  to  the  Protestants,  land  for  separate  cemeteries  on  Blue 
Mountain  Lake. 

As  these  developments  progressed  they  brought  the  results 
for  which  they  were  planned.  Tourist  travel  increased,  and 
hotels  and  boarding-camps  were  erected  to  take  care  of  it. 
The  region  also  began  to  be  dotted  with  many  private  camps, 
reflecting  the  artistic  influence  of  Pine  Knot.  Among  the 
earliest  of  these  were  the  Ten  Eyck,  Hasbrouck,  Stott,  and 
Apgar  camps.  These  were  all  built  in  the  seventies,  but  were 
at  first  mere  log  cabins.    In  1881,  Charles  W.  Durant,  a  cousin 


KAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES   95 

of  W.  W.  Durant,  who  had  bought  Osprey  Island/  erected  on 
it  a  charmingly  picturesque  camp  known  as  "Fairview."  It 
was  later  purchased  by  J.  Harvey  Ladew  of  New  York.  In 
1883  Dr.  Arpad  G.  Gerster  ^  built  a  small  camp  near  the  Hem- 
locks, and  later  a  larger  one  on  Big  Island.  After  being  sold 
to  the  sculptor  Carl  Bitter,  it  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1906. 

While  these  early  private  camps  were  springing  up,  public 
stopping-places  were  also  dotting  the  lake  shore.  They  were 
built  mostly  on  the  cabin  plan,  however,  and  it  is  noteworthy 
that  Raquette  Lake  escaped  the  infliction  of  a  big  bare-boned 
hotel  of  the  paganly  formal  type.  The  public  w^s  entertained 
in  buildings  of  rustic  design,  crude  enough  at  first,  but  grad- 
ually yielding  to  the  atmosphere  of  beauty  and  comfort  that 
began  to  permeate  the  architecture  of  the  lake.  The  earliest 
of  these  hotels  in  log  apparel  were  started  between  1875  and 
1880. 

Ike  Kenwell  built  the  first  on  a  point  often  called  by  his  own 
name,  opposite  Indian  Point.  The  building  was  a  two-story 
log  one,  called  the  "Raquette  Lake  House."  He  ran  it  for 
eleven  years  and  then  sold  to  the  late  Hon.  Dennis  McCarthy 
of  Syracuse,  who  erected  a  private  camp  on  the  site. 
Mr.  Kenwell  is  still  alive  (1920),  and  is  now  living  at  Indian 
Lake. 

Chauncey  Hathorn,  an  eccentric  character  who  had  been 
Hving  the  life  of  a  hermit  for  several  years  on  Blue  Moun- 
tain Lake,  moved  over  to  Golden  Beach  and  opened  the  "For- 
est Cottages,"  which  he  ran  until  his  death  in  1891.  Joe  Whit- 
ney built  a  small  place  on  the  other  side  of  South  Bay,  and 
Charlie  Blanchard  started  the  Wigwams  at  the  north  end  of 
the  lake.  The  three  Bennett  brothers  all  opened  early  resorts. 
Two  of  them  became  very  popular — "Under  the  Hemlocks," 
run  by  Ed  Bennett,  and  the  "Antlers,"  run  by  Charlie  Ben- 
nett. The  latter  place,  indeed,  became  one  of  the  most  dis- 
tinctive in  the  woods  and  it  and  its  owner  call  for  more  than 
passing  notice. 

Charles  Bennett  was  born  in  Peekskill  in  1845,  and  soon 

1  See  Chap.  XXXVII,  "Alvah  Dunning." 

2 1  am  indebted  to  Dr.  Gerster  for  much  kindly  help  in  gathering  data  for 
this  chapter,  and  for  supplementing  them  with  reminiscent  comments  of  his  own. 


96  A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

afterward  his  family  moved  to  Long  Island.  He  was  a  wild 
and  restless  boy,  and  he  and  his  brother  Ed  ran  away  from 
home  together.  They  wandered  into  Raquette  Lake  about 
1874,  and  Charles  stayed  there  for  the  rest  of  his  life.  He 
died  at  the  Antlers  in  1915.  He  never  married.  A  house- 
keeper Miss  Amelia  Keller  and  later  a  sister  Margaret  Ben- 
nett helped  him  run  his  place  until  he  died.  The  sister  con- 
tinued to  run  it  till  1920,  when  she  sold  it  for  the  purposes  of 
a  boys'  club. 

When  Charlie  first  came  into  the  woods  he  guided  for  the 
Durants.  Then  he  put  up  a  small  cabin  for  tourists  on  the 
apex  of  Long  Point.  In  1880  he  and  his  brother  built  Under 
the  Hemlocks,  and  ran  it  together  for  a  while.  It  burned 
in  1882,  but  was  rebuilt.  In  1885  Charlie  bought  Constable 
Point  and  started  the  Antlers,  which,  from  small  and  diffi- 
cult beginnings,  he  nursed  into  a  place  of  unique  charm  and 
distinctive  merit. 

It  was  an  achievement  of  personality,  and  yet  there  was  a 
deviltry  of  independence  in  this  man's  character  that  would 
seem  to  preclude  precisely  this  achievement.  Nothing  seemed 
more  obviously  important  for  a  tavern  host  of  the  early  days 
than  to  win  the  good  will  and  the  good  word  of  the  guides. 
The  guide  was  the  babbling  Baedeker  of  the  woods.  He 
planned  the  route  and  chose  the  stopping-places.  He  could 
double-star  the  ones  ho  liked,  and  double-cross  the  others.  It 
would  seem,  therefore,  that  his  favor  was  a  necessary  factor 
in  success.  Charlie  Bennett  managed  to  explode  the  theory. 
Although  an  ex-guide  himself,  he  treated  the  profession  and 
the  individual  with  undisguised  contempt.  He  omitted  no  op- 
portunity of  being  mean  to  them  either  in  speech  or  act. 
They  in  turn,  of  course,  omitted  no  opportunity  of  abusing 
him  and  his  place,  but  their  solid  enmity  failed  to  keep  an  ever 
increasing  patronage  from  his  doors.  The  tourists  went  to 
the  Antlers,  and  the  guides,  according  to  Charlie,  were  at 
perfect  liberty  to  go  elsewhere.  His  success  under  these  con- 
ditions was  so  unusual  as  to  be  unique. 

Besides  the  guides,  w^ho  had  some  excuse  for  making  him 
trouble,  he  had  to  fight  more  powerful  and  threatening  influ- 
ences that  arrayed  themselves  against  the  success  of  his  hotel. 


5  Q 


■*F#  ; 


RAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES   97 

The  story  of  it  all  is  too  intricate  and  long  to  be  told  here,  but 
it  led  to  many  a  battle  royal  in  which  Charlie  ultimately  came 
out  victor.  He  was  a  bom  fighter,  anyhow,  and  seemed  fairly 
to  revel  in  a  row.  Nor  was  he  at  any  pains  to  conceal  his  de- 
light over  the  discomfiture  of  an  enemy.  A  picturesque  in- 
stance of  this  occurred  in  the  early  days. 

John  G.  Holland  built  the  first  hotel  on  Blue  Mountain  Lake. 
It  burned  in  1886.  Wishing  to  rebuild,  but  dreading  the  long 
haul  for  lumber  from  North  Creek,  he  bethought  him  of  an 
old  mill  that  stood  unused  at  the  foot  of  Raquette  Lake.  He 
then  asked  Charlie  Bennett  if  he  would  go  into  partnership 
on  the  mill,  moving  it  up  the  Marion  River  to  Bassett's  Carry, 
where  it  could  be  used  to  advantage  for  both  Blue  Mountain 
and  Raquette  Lake.  Charlie  agreed  to  the  bargain.  Mr. 
Durant,  who  owned  the  mill,  was  approached  and  gave  his  con- 
sent to  the  moving.  A  misunderstanding  over  the  prelimi- 
naries arose  between  the  partners,  however,  and  the  matter 
was  referred  to  Mr.  Durant,  who  gave  the  mill  to  Holland  and 
excluded  Charlie  altogether  from  the  deal. 

Holland  started  in  the  autumn  to  move  the  mill  on  a  raft. 
The  raft  became  caught  in  the  early  ice.  As  soon  as  thicker 
ice  formed,  further  progress  was  attempted.  The  boiler  was 
placed  on  a  sleigh,  and  started  up  the  river.  But  the  ice 
proved  too  thin  for  such  a  load.  It  broke  through  and  sank 
to  the  bottom.  Charlie  soon  heard  of  this  serious  mishap,  and 
it  filled  him  with  such  effervescent  joy  that  he  rummaged  out 
some  fire-balloons  and  rockets  left  over  from  the  Fourth  of 
July,  and  set  them  off  in  a  spirit  of  public  thanksgiving  for 
the  confusion  of  his  enemy.  There  was  a  barbaric  frankness 
about  this  celebration  that  was  typical  of  the  man.  He  never 
shammed.  He  pretended  no  sympathy  for  Holland.  He  felt 
an  elation  which  verged  on  the  explosive,  and  he  noised  it 
abroad  in  rockets. 

Early  in  his  career  he  avowed  three  dominant  ambitions — 
to  run  a  better  hotel  than  anybody  else,  to  travel,  and  ''to 
give  hell  to  Long  Lakers."  He  achieved  all  three.  The  par- 
ticular reason  for  the  last-named  yearning  was  the  fact  that 
Long  Lakers  assessed  his  property,  and  he  claimed  that  their 
only  gage  of  values  was  personal  spite.     He  sought  to  pay 


98  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

them  back  by  a  largess  of  the  same  coin  that  became  proverb- 
ial. 

This  was  Charlie  the  fighter — the  man  who  could  make  en- 
emies and  keep  them.  But  he  could  also  make  friends  and 
keep  them.  He  was  the  kind  of  man  who  made  you  love  him 
or  hate  him,  and  he  was  a  past  master  in  both  arts.  His 
softer  side  was  full  of  true  tenderness  and  intuitive  delicacy. 
He  could  do  the  nicest  things  in  the  nicest  way,  and  delighted 
in  doing  them.  He  took  the  most  touching  care  of  his  aged 
father,  and  awakened  genuine  affection  in  all  who  worked  for 
him  faithfully  for  any  length  of  time.  Not  only  have  I  heard 
these  people  sing  his  praises,  but  I  have  heard  men  who  have 
traveled  the  world  over  say  they  would  as  lief  spend  a  day 
with  Charlie  Bennett  as  with  any  man  they  ever  met.  He  had 
a  keen,  intelligent  mind,  and  developed  it  by  a  growing  fond- 
ness for  reading  the  best  books,  which  in  turn  awakened  in 
him  the  desire  to  travel. 

From  the  first  his  camp-like  hotel  was  so  good  and  so  well 
patronized  that  he  could  soon  afford  to  travel,  and  the  more 
he  traveled  the  better  his  hotel  became.  His  globe-trotting 
was  done  in  the  winter,  of  course.  He  wandered  all  over 
America  and  visited  the  leading  countries  of  Europe.  Wher- 
ever he  went  he  stopped  at  the  best  hotels,  chiefly  to  discover 
why  they  were  the  best.  He  mixed  not  only  wdth  the  guests 
but  vdih  the  management.  He  liked  to  watch  the  wheels  go 
round,  and  was  always  nosing  about  for  some  new  trick  of  the 
trade.  If  a  new  dish  were  set  before  him,  especially  abroad, 
he  made  connection  with  the  chef  and  learned  how  to  concoct 
it,  for  he  was  an  excellent  cook  himself.  After  ever>'  winter 
trip,  he  returned  to  apply  something  appropriate  of  the  knowl- 
edge he  had  gleaned  to  the  betterment  of  the  Antlers,  and 
it  gradually  acquired  touches  of  comfort  and  surprises  in  food 
which  were  to  be  had  nowhere  else  in  the  woods.  If  he  had 
the  ingredients,  there  was  scarcely  a  dish  in  the  Almanac  de 
Gotha  that  Charlie  could  not  prepare,  and  he  delighted  to  set 
before  a  foreign  guest  some  specialty  of  his  native  land,  and 
to  prepare  little  dinners  of  exotic  flavor.  This  was  what  gave 
the  place  a  distinctive  charm.     This  was  Charlie  the  caterer. 

There  was  also  Charlie  the  host.    He  liked  to  meet  and  mix 


KAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES   99 

with  his  guests,  but  he  did  so  with  discrimination.  He  tested 
them  all  before  he  unbent  to  any.  He  was  an  intuitive  reader 
of  men,  with  a  swift  sureness  of  judgment.  Those  who  often 
dissented  from  his  obiter  dicta  w^hen  these  were  uttered,  have 
admitted  to  me  that  his  estimates  usually  proved  right  in  the 
long  run.  He  was  quick  to  sense  the  difference  between  men 
of  inherited  culture  and  ancestral  wealth,  and  those  who  had 
been  suddenly  tossed  to  prosperity  by  a  bull  market.  To  the 
latter  he  gave  of  his  hotel  but  not  of  himself.  To  the  former 
he  gave  of  both. 

And  when  he  gave  of  his  better,  partly  hidden  self,  he  re- 
vealed unexpected  depths  of  charm  and  interest.  Before  the 
elect  he  delighted  to  show  his  knowledge  of  books  and  of  the 
world.  His  conversation  ran  into  the  by-paths  of  travel  and 
literature,  and  bristled  with  original  comment  and  amu.sing 
anecdote.  Gradually  you  became  aware  of  listening  to  a  man 
who  loved  all  that  was  beautiful,  and  abhorred  all  shams 
and  frauds.  And  yet  you  might  chance  to  see  this  delightful 
companion  of  a  quiet  evening  in  very  different  guise  the  fol- 
lowing day.  He  might  be  heard  too  loudly  berating  a  Long 
Laker,  or  he  might  be  seen  fleeing  for  his  life  before  an  en- 
raged French  chef  with  a  carving-knife,  w^ho  considered  him- 
self insulted  by  an  irresponsible  employer.  He  might  be 
found,  in  short,  in  almost  any  boisterous  scene  that  is  sired  by 
the  overflowing  cup.     This  was  a  recurrent  shadow  in  his  life. 

He  was  full  of  fun  and  constantly  playing  jokes.  But  here 
again  he  ran  the  gamut  of  extremes.  With  ladies  his  fooling 
was  gently  whimsical;  with  men  it  was  sometimes  roughly 
Olympic.  I  have  the  following  instance  from  a  survivor.  He 
and  Charlie  started  out  in  a  boat  to  fish.  It  was  a  hot,  still 
morning.  My  friend  leaned  over  and  looked  into  the  cool, 
clear  w^ater,  remarking  casually,  *'I  think  I  'd  like  to  take  a 
dip."  The  next  instant  he  took  it.  Charlie  gave  the  boat  a 
violent  lurch  and  both  occupants  w^ent  sprawiing  into  the  lake. 
My  friend  came  up  with  his  nose  full  of  water  and  his  mouth 
•fulFof  anger.  Charlie,  better  prepared,  came  up  full  of  laugh- 
ter, and  soon  had  his  victim  laughing,  too.  It  was  another 
knack  he  had.  He  could  make  any  one  forgive  him — if  he 
wanted  to. 


100  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

Physically  he  was  a  big,  broad-shouldered  man.  His  face 
was  attractive  to  the  verge  of  being  handsome.  His  nose  was 
a  bit  too  rounded  at  the  end,  perhaps,  to  be  purely  classical, 
but  otherwise  his  features  were  almost  faultless.  The  curves 
of  the  chin  were  excellent,  the  mouth  was  frank  and  winsome, 
the  forehead  was  broad,  and  beneath  it  were  the  kind  of  eyes 
that  men  remember  and  women  seldom  forget.  They  were 
bluish,  deep-set,  dreamy  eyes,  yet  clear  and  keen  withal.  Both 
laughter  and  lightning  played  in  their  depths,  and  they 
searched  you  with  a  level  gaze  from  which  there  was  no  am- 
bush. Seldom  has  the  face  of  a  fighter  been  so  free  from  the 
portents  of  combat,  and  so  submissive  to  the  sunshine  of  a 
smile. 

Charlie  Bennett  had  stanch  friends  and  bitter  enemies,  but 
the  number  of  the  latter  was  far  outweighed  by  the  quality  of 
the  former.  These  were  largely  people  of  culture  and  dis- 
tinction who  had  stopped  at  his  hotel  or  met  him  in  his  travels 
at  home  and  abroad.  Some  of  them,  I  am  told,  crossed  the 
ocean  mainly  to  visit  the  Antlers.  Speaking  of  this  one  day 
to  a  globe-trotting  friend  whose  social  contacts  were  many 
and  diverse,  I  said:  ''I  suppose  Charlie  always  talked  about 
the  Antlers  in  his  travels,  and  so  made  people  curious  to 
see  his  wild-wood  home."  "  It  was  n't  that,"  came  the  quick 
answer.  "It  was  his  personality  that  did  the  trick.  I  'd 
cross  the  ocean  myself  to  spend  a  day  with  Charlie  Bennett!" 

BLUE    MOUNTAIN    LAKE 

Blue  Mountain,  although  a  much  smaller  lake,  is  a  sister  to 
Raquette  in  beauty  and  proximity.  The  development  of  the 
two,  being  inspired  by  the  Durants,  went  hand  in  hand,  but 
there  was  one  marked  difference.  Raquette  was  dominated 
by  the  camp-beautiful  idea  in  both  its  private  and  public  build- 
ings, whereas  Blue  Mountain  Lake  succumbed,  structurally,  to 
the  hotel  horrible. 

The  water  connection  between  the  two  lakes  is  by  way  of 
the  Marion  River  and  two  widenings  of  it  known  as  Utowana 
and  Eagle  lakes.  These  and  Blue  Mountain  Lake  were  called 
the  "Eckford  Chain"  in  the  early  days,  after  Henry  Eckford, 
a  noted  engineer  and  ship-builder,  who  made  a  survey  of  the 


EAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES  101 

lakes  while  Eobert  Fulton  was  surveying  others,  under  the 
waterway  investigation  ordered  by  the  State  in  ISll.^  Later 
Professor  Emmons,  during  his  geological  survey,  named  the 
lakes,  beginning  with  the  largest,  ''Lake  Janet,"  ''Lake  Cath- 
erine," and  "Lake  Marion,"  all  for  daughters  of  Henry 
Eckford.  The  last  name  only  has  survived,  as  applied  to  the 
Marion  River.  Mr.  Durant  renamed  Utowana,  Ned  Buntline 
renamed  Eagle,  and  John  G.  Holland  renamed  Blue  Mountain 
Lake. 

Between  the  early  names  given  by  Professor  Emmons — so 
-early  that  there  was  no  one  to  use  and  perpetuate  them — and 
the  names  of  to-day,  there  w^as  a  long  period  when  this  chain 
was  called  the  "Tallow  Lakes."  This  strange  name  had  a 
strange  genesis.  There  was  an  old  Indian  hunter  who  started 
across  the  larger  lake  one  spring  with  a  load  of  vension  tal- 
low in  his  canoe,  which  he  hoped  to  sell  at  a  good  profit  in  the 
settlements.  The  lust  of  gain  proved  his  undoing,  however, 
He  overloaded  his  canoe  and  was  overtaken  by  a  storm,  and 
his  argosy  of  grease  was  swallowed  by  the  angry  waters.  The 
Indian  was  childishly  atTected  by  his  loss.  He  bemoaned  and 
bewhined  it  to  all  who  would  listen,  and  men  began,  half-jok- 
ingly,  to  call  the  scene  of  the  tragedy  Tallow  Lake. 

It  was  so  called  when  John  G.  Holland  started  to  build  the 
first  hotel  upon  its  shores  in  1874.  Realizing  that  this  would 
hardly  be  an  attractive  name  for  his  letter-heads,  he  cast 
about  for  something  better.  He  noticed  that  some  of  the 
guides  spoke  of  the  adjacent  mountain — originally  named 
Mount  Emmons,  in  honor  of  the  geologist — as  "Blue  Moun- 
tain," because  it  often  seemed  conspicuously  tinged  w^itli  blue. 
Acting  on  this  suggestion,  Holland  decided  to  call  his  place 
the  "Blue  Mountain  Lake  Hotel,"  and  so  advertised  it  when 
completed.  The  name  met  ^vith  general  favor  and  adhered 
to  both  the  lake  and  the  mountain,  and  was  later  given  to  the 
post-office  there. 

In  1873  Holland  was  working  at  the  store  in  North  Creek. 
There  he  met  the  sportsmen  and  lumbermen  as  they  passed 
in  and  out,  and  heard  their  talk  of  the  beautiful  lake  country 
in  the  depths  of  the  woods  and  of  how  badly  it  needed  accom- 

1  See  Chap.  XIII,  "John  Brown's  Tract." 


102  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

modations  for  the  traveler.  He  decided  to  look  over  the 
ground  and  the  possibilities.  This  meant  a  difficult  journey 
in  those  days.  There  was  only  the  roughest  kind  of  winter 
road  to  a  lumber  camp  on  Cedar  River.  Beyond  that  there 
were  only  wood  trails.  Holland  was  guided  over  these  by  a 
man  named  Henry  Austin,  who  had  a  rough  shanty  on  Eagle 
Lake.  From  here  they  rowed  into  Blue  Mountain  Lake, 
where  the  Morgan  Lumber  Company  was  in  control  and  op- 
erating. Holland  soon  made  up  his  mind  to  build  a  hotel,  and 
negotiated  for  a  site  with  the  lumber  company  before  leav- 
ing. This  was  in  1874,  and  at  the  time  he  found  a  young  but 
eccentric  hermit  living  alone  on  one  of  the  beaches.  This  was 
Chauncey  Hathom,  a  nephew  of  Senator  Hathorn,  owner  of 
the  Hathorn  Spring  at  Saratoga.  The  nephew  was  a  young 
man  of  breeding  and  education,  but  of  marked  eccentricities, 
of  which  living  alone  in  the  woods  was  one.  Later,  as  has 
been  told,  he  moved  over  to  Golden  Beach  on  Raquette  Lake 
and  ran  a  popular  boarding-camp  there  for  many  years. 

The  other  permanent  resident  on  Blue  Mountain  Lake  at 
this  time  was  Tyler  M.  Merwin,  who  had  a  log  cabin  on  an 
elevated  plateau  on  a  spur  of  Blue  Mountain.  After  Holland 
had  built,  Merwin  enlarged  his  place  into  a  hotel  which  he 
called  the  *'Blue  Mountain  House."  Perched  high  above  the 
lake,  on  the  Long  Lake  road,  it  commanded  a  wonderful  view, 
and  became  popular  with  those  who  did  not  object  to  the  long 
climb  to  it. 

Holland  drew  in  the  lumber  and  material  for  his  hotel  dur- 
ing the  winter.  In  the  spring  he  began  building,  and  in  July, 
1875,  he  threw  open  the  doors  of  the  first  hotel  on  Blue  Moun- 
tain Lake.  People  fairly  rushed  in  from  the  start.  It  was  a 
primitive  log  structure,  but  it  was  clean  and  comfortable,  and 
well  run,  and  its  patronage  was  large  and  steady.  Dr.  Durant 
was  keenlj^  interested  in  the  venture,  for  a  good  hotel  at  that 
point  was  exactly  what  he  wanted.  He  helped  to  open  and 
improve  the  road  to  it,  and,  as  soon  as  feasible,  put  on  a  line 
of  daily  stages  from  the  railway  station  at  North  Creek.  In 
1886  the  original  Blue  Mountain  Lake  Hotel  was  completely 
destroyed  by  fire.  It  was  immediately  replaced,  however,  by  a 
much  larger  and  more  hotel-like  structure,  and  it  was  while 


EAQUETTE  AND  BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKES     103 

preparing  to  rebuild  that  the  previously  related  incident  of 
moving  the  mill  occurred.  The  new  hotel  was  also  destroyed 
by  fire,  in  1896,  and  was  never  rebuilt. 

Mt.  Holland,  bom  in  1846,  is  still  living  and  is  still  in  the 
hotel  business.  He  now  (1920)  runs  the  Lake  Harris  House 
at  Newcomb,  and  has  been  kind  enough  to  furnish  me  with 
many  reminiscences  for  this  chapter. 

The  success  of  the  Blue  Mountain  Lake  House  led  Merwin, 
as  has  been  told,  to  turn  his  place  into  a  hotel.  But  the  in- 
crease in  summer  travel  was  so  rapid  that  the  need  of  another 
hotel  was  obvious.  It  w^as  supplied  by  Frederick  C.  Durant, 
a  cousin  of  William  West,  who  built  the  once  famous  Prospect 
House  in  1881.  At  the  time  it  was  the  largest  and  by  far  the 
most  luxurious  hotel  in  the  woods,  and  its  erection  in  that 
remote  spot,  thirty  miles  from  a  railway,  was  a  stupendous 
and  remarkable  achievement.  Structurally  it  had  no  outward 
beauty,  and  was  merely  a  gaunt,  ungainly  pile  of  piazzas  and 
windows,  but  inwardlv  it  contained  the  latest  refinements  in 
comfort  and  convenience. 

It  was  built  on  a  point  projecting  into  the  lake  and  com- 
manding an  unobstructed  view  in  all  directions.  It  held 
thcee  hundred  rooms,  many  baths  and  open  fireplaces,  a  steam 
elevator,  electric  bells,  a  bowling-alley,  a  shooting  gallery,  a 
billiard  room,  and  a  telegraph  office.  Of  greatest  historical 
interest,  however,  is  the  fact  that  every  bedroom  was  furn- 
ished with  an  Edison  electric  light,  and  that  this  hotel  was  the 
first,  not  only  in  the  mountains  but  in  the  ivorld,  to  equip  its 
sleeping-rooms  with  this  new  luxury.  Needless  to  say  such 
a  hotel  speedily  took  its  place  as  one  of  the  unnatural,  almost 
uncanny,  wonders  of  the  wilderness. 

The  large  hotels  on  this  medium-sized  lake  were  its  most 
conspicuous  feature,  and  they  appear  to  have  dwarfed  its 
camp-development.  A  few  camps  were  built,  but  not  so  many 
as  the  beauty  of  the  spot  would  seem  to  warrant.  Among  the 
earliest  was  that  of  Mayor  Thacher  of  Albany,  on  an  island 
opposite  Holland's  Hotel.  This  island  contained  several 
grotto-like  caves  that  were  once  a  curiosity  often  visited  by 
tourists.  But  the  building  of  a  dam  raised  the  water  in  the 
lake  so  high  as  to  cover  the  entrance  to  these  little  caverns. 


104  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

The  island  still  belongs  to  the  Thacher  family.  It  was  bought 
in  1875  from  John  Copeland,  a  guide  who  had  built  a  rough 
hunting-lodge  upon  it.  This  was  remodeled  later  into  an  at- 
tractive camp.  Near  it,  on  the  main  shore,  a  Mr.  Crane  of 
Yonkers  built  a  summer  home,  and  a  Colonel  Duryea  of  New 
York  built  one  near  the  outlet. 


i 


CHAPTER  XXXVII 
ALVAH  DUNNING 

IN  the  delightful  sketch  of  Orson  Phelps,  which  has  been 
quoted  in  a  previous  chapter,  Charles  Dudley  Warner 
assumes  to  have  found  a  primitive  man,  and  "svith  consummate 
literary  skill  exploits  the  discovery  for  our  delectation.  In- 
deed, his  art  is  so  subtle  that  it  scatters  gold-dust  in  our  eyes 
and  blinds  us  to  what  would  otherwise  be  quite  obvious — 
that  Old  Phelps,  except  in  appearance,  was  not  primitive  at 
all.  He  was  really  wired  for  all  the  push-buttons  of  civiliza- 
tion. He  craved  intellectual  contacts,  was  sensitive  to  the 
serenest  beauties  of  nature,  and  had  a  sedentary  abhorrence 
of  the  struggle  for  existence. 

Alvah  Dunning,  the  hermit  guide  of  Raquette  Lake,  had 
none  of  these  traits,  but  rather  those  that  entitle  him  to  be 
considered  as  the  real  Adirondack  prototype  of  a  primitive 
man.  His  whole  nature  slanted  back  to  the  beginnings  of 
I  things  and  resented  the  poachings  of  progress.  He  sought 
solitude  and  provender  in  the  woods,  not  beauty.  He  had  a 
troglodytic  dislike  of  neighbors,  a  primal  tendency  to  warfare 
with  them,  and  a  savage  streak  of  cruelty. 

Fortunately  this  latter  failing  flared  up  conspicuously  only 
once  in  his  life — when  he  nearly  killed  his  young  wife  for 
faithlessness.  Ordinarily  it  was  a  dormant  rather  than  an 
active  taint,  and  was  even  unsuspected  by  many.  Passion  re- 
vealed it,  and  drink  would  undoubtedly  have  given  it  full  play, 
but  luckily  Alvah  was  a  temperate  man.  He  drank  but  sel- 
dom, and  never  to  excess.  But  if  sobriety  restrained  his  prac- 
tice of  cruelty,  it  did  not  dull  his  repulsive  relish  of  a  tale 
of  horror. 

For  him  the  finest  man  who  ever  lived  was  his  father's 
ii  friend  Nicholas  Stoner,  the  famous  scout  and  Indian-killer  of 
[Revolutionary  days,  whose  prowess  in  feats  of  skill  was 
I  equaled  only  by  his  record  of  drunken  deviltries  and  fiendish 

105 


106  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

cruelties.  Of  these  Alvali  would  delight  to  tell.  With  a 
twinkle  in  his  eye  and  a  chuckle  in  his  voice,  he  would  recount 
a  tale  of  wantonly  inflicted  torture  that  would  turn  the  hearer 
sick.  Yet  this  same  Alvah  was  far  kinder  than  most  guides  to 
his  dogs,  of  whom  he  always  kept  several.  He  resented  noth- 
ing more  angrily  than  their  maltreatment.  He  once  turned  a 
lucrative  hunting-party  out  of  his  camp  because  a  member  of 
it  had  kicked  and  abused  the  dogs.  Of  such  contradictions 
was  Alvah  made. 

In  his  youth,  which  lasted  till  he  was  very  old,  he  was  tall 
and  straight  and  slim,  thin-flanked,  and  long-armed.  He  had 
an  Indian's  stealth  and  economy  of  motion;  his  strength  and 
endurance;  his  slyness  of  resource;  and  even  his  curve  of 
feature.  Most  prominent  was  his  vulturcsquely  beaked  nose, 
arching  beneath  rather  small  but  clear,  keen  eyes,  to  whose 
deadly  vigilance  the  red  men  paid  tribute  by  calling  him 
"Snake-Eye."  The  forehead  was  broad  and  sloping,  and  all 
that  was  needed  was  a  c^o^\^l  of  feathers  to  give  the  last 
Indian  touch  to  the  head.  The  mouth  was  small,  and  the  lips 
were  thin  and  tightly  pressed  together  when  closed,  but  could 
part  in  a  pleasant  smile  when  humor  moved  them.  The  chin 
was  covered  by  a  scraggly  beard  that  trellised  up  over  his 
ears.  Both  hair  and  beard  turned  a  pure  white  in  his  later 
life,  and  his  skin  became  as  creased  and  crackled  as  the  bark 
on  an  old  cedar.  There  could  be,  all  in  all,  no  more  tempting 
study  for  the  etcher's  needle,  and  fortunately  among  the 
former  residents  of  Raquette  Lake  there  was  an  artist  who 
felt  the  lure  of  it.  My  friend  Dr.  Arpad  G.  Gerster  made 
an  excellent  etching  of  this  excellent  subject,  which  I  am  per- 
mitted to  reproduce  here.  He  also  told  me  a  pretty  story  that 
went  with  it. 

While  he  was  fishing  once  with  Alvah  on  Eighth  Lake,  the 
guide  lost  his  old  silver  watch  overboard  in  trying  to  lift  a 
big  trout  into  the  boat.  The  old  "onion"  was  a  worthless 
thing,  but  this  in  many  ways  childish  old  man  nearly  cried 
over  its  loss.  Dr.  Gerster  then  and  there  decided  to  replace 
it  with  something  better.  He  had  seen  an  excellent  photo- 
graph of  Alvah,  taken  by  Stoddard.  From  this  he  made  an 
etching  and  sold  enough  proofs  to  the  summer  visitors  at 


ALVAPI  DUNNING  107 

Kaquette  Lake  to  purchase  a  handsome  gold  watch.  It  was 
bought  from  Benedict's  in  New  York,  and  when  Mr.  Benedict 
heard  of  the  circumstances  he  donated  a  gold  chain.  This 
complete  outfit  was  sent  to  the  mountains  and  presented  to 
Alvah  by  Mr.  W.  W.  Durant,  at  Camp  Pine  Knot,  the  follow- 
ing Christmas.  The  old  guide  was  so  surprised  and  touched 
by  the  handsome  present  that  he  actually  swooned  away  and 
had  to  be  revived.  He  carried  the  watch  ever  after,  and  it 
was  found  upon  him  at  his  death. 

Alvah  came  of  stock  that  explained  much  of  the  barbarian 
that  was  in  him.  His  father,  known  as  ' '  Scout  Dunning, ' '  had 
served  under  Sir  William  Johnson,  and  was  accounted  almost 
as  skilled  and  ruthless  an  Indian  warrior  as  the  more  re- 
nowned Nick  Stoner.  The  two  were  friends,  and  of  similar 
general  characteristics.  After  the  killing  of  Indians  had 
ceased  to  pay,  the  elder  Dunning  turned  to  hunting  and  trap- 
ping as  a  means  of  livelihood.  For  this  purpose  he  settled  at 
Lake  Pleasant,  and  here  Alvah  was  born  in  June,  1816. 

He  began  to  hunt  and  trap  with  his  father  when  only  six 
years  old,  and  he  guided  the  first  white  men  into  the  Raquette 
Lake  region  when  he  was  only  twelve.  A  year  prior  to  this 
the  great  event  of  his  life  had  happened :  he  had  shot  his  first 
moose.  He  had  long  craved  the  opportunity,  but  moose-hunt- 
ing was  considered  too  dangerous  a  sport  for  a  youth  of  eleven 
to  share.  Finally,  one  day  his  father  consented  to  take  him 
along,  but  merely  as  spectator.  Alvah  was  allowed  to  take 
his  rifle,  however,  and  was  given  the  dog  to  lead.  The  father 
went  ahead,  and  the  boy  follow^ed,  lagging  intentionally  more 
and  more  in  the  rear.  He  had  secretly  made  up  his  mind  that 
he  was  going  to  kill  a  moose  himself,  and  he  had  concocted  a 
clever  scheme  for  accomplishing  his  purpose. 

He  had  listened  attentively  whenever  the  talk  had  been  of 
moose.  He  had  learned  that  they  will  run  from  the  sight 
or  the  scent  of  a  man,  but  will  attack  him  if  wounded;  that 
Uhey  will  usually  turn  and  give  fight,  if  followed  by  a  dog; 
land  that  the  fatal  place  to  hit  them  is  at  the  butt  of  the 
|ear.  Ruminating  on  these  things,  he  noticed  the  dog  pick 
jup  a  scent.  Quick  as  a  wink  he  slipped  the  leash  and  let  him 
go.    His  father  heard  the  commotion,  and  shouted  back  to 


108  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

know  the  cause.  Alvali  said  the  dog  had  gotten  away  from 
him,  but  that  he  would  catch  him,  and,  suiting  the  action  to  the 
word,  he  scampered  off  as  fast  as  his  heels  would  carry  him. 
After  he  had  run  about  half  a  mile,  both  his  haste  and  his  cun- 
ning were  rewarded,  for  he  saw  the  very  sight  he  had  hoped 
to  see — the  dog  and  a  moose  standing  at  bay.  The  two  ani- 
mals were  so  absorbed  in  each  other  that  he  was  able  to  ap- 
proach unnoticed.  He  raised  his  gun,  took  careful  aim,  and 
fired — and  the  moose  fell  dead.  Alvah  never  told  the  story 
without  adding  that  this  was  the  proudest  moment  of  his  Ufe, 
but  that  it  was  followed  by  one  of  deep  depression. 

His  father,  arriving  on  the  scene,  being  a  man  of  few  words, 
said  little  or  nothing.  He  merely  pulled  out  his  knife  and 
began  skinning  the  moose.  The  boy  could  see  plainly,  how- 
ever, that  the  old  hunter  was  skeptical  about  what  had  hap- 
pened, and  was  looking  carefully  for  a  bullet  hole.  Alvah 
was  eager  to  have  it  show  up,  too;  but  it  didn't.  The  whole 
skin  was  gone  over  carefully  without  the  slightest  trace  of 
a  puncture  being  found. 

"Just  as  I  thought,'*  remarked  the  old  man,  contemptu- 
ously.    "Yer  only  scart  him  to  death." 

This  was  an  awful  verdict  and  an  awful  moment  for  Alvah. 
He  snatched  the  skin  in  despair  and  went  over  it  again. 
But  in  vain.  Finally  it  occurred  to  him  to  cut  into  the 
animal's  brain,  and  there  at  last  the  bullet  was  found,  and 
the  boy^s  prowess  was  more  than  vindicated.  He  had  aimed 
of  course  at  the  ear,  and  the  moose  had  so  dipped  his  head 
at  the  moment  of  firing  that  the  bullet  passed  through  the 
aural  cavity  and  so  did  its  deadly  work  without  leaving  any 
mark  on  the  skin. 

Such  was  the  remarkable  and  unique  beginning  of  a  long 
and  unequaled  career.  Alvah  probably  killed,  or  helped  kill, 
more  moose  than  any  of  his  contemporaries  in  these  woods. 
He  kept  no  records,  and  had  only  a  vague  idea  of  the  grand 
total,  but  he  remembered  distinctly  that  when  he  hmited 
with  his  father — who  made  a  business  of  killing  and  selHng 
moose — they  often  brought  dowTi  three  or  four  in  a  day,  and 
occasionally  as  many  as  five.  This  shows  how  plentiful  the 
animals  were  in  the  early  days. 


ALVAH  DUNNING  109 

The  more  remarkable  seems  their  sudden  and  almost  com- 
plete disappearance  during  the  winter  of  1854r-55.  This 
mysterious  exodus  is  considered  by  zoologists  one  of  the  most 
curious  incidents  in  the  natural  history  of  the  State.  Alvah 
recalled  it  distinctly,  and  never  tired  of  speculating  on  the 
causes  of  this  sudden  "peterin'  out"  of  his  favorite  game. 
It  was  the  more  incomprehensible  to  him  because  he  had 
never  seen  so  many  moose  in  the  woods  as  in  the  autumn  of 
1854.  After  that,  he  and  others  saw  and  shot  only  an  oc- 
casional straggler. 

Who  actually  killed  the  last  moose  has  long  been  a  debated 
question.  There  have  been  many  aspirants  to  the  distinc- 
tion. Alvah  himself  claimed  it,  and  Fred  Mather  supports 
his  claim  by  saying:  ''The  fact  is  that  Alvah  Dunning  killed 
the  last  Adirondack  moose  in  March,  1862."  ^ 

On  the  other  hand,  no  less  an  authority  than  Mr.  Madison 
Grant,  after  making  a  lengthy  and  painstaking  investigation 
of  the  subject,  comes  to  a  different  conclusion.    He  says : 

I  The  last  authentic  moose  in  the  Adirondacks  was  killed  in  the  au- 
'tumn  of  the  same  year  [1861],  on  the  east  inlet  of  Raquette  Lake.  A 
party  of  sportsmen,  guided  by  Palmer  of  Long  Lake,  was  canoeing 
down  Marion  River  toward  the  lake.  On  turning  a  bend  in  the  river 
they  were  surprised  to  see  a  huge  creature  start  up  among  the  lily- 
pads  and  plunge  wildly  toward  the  shore.  Several  charges  of  shot 
5 were  fired  with  no  visible  effect,  when  Palmer  took  deliberate  aim  with 
jhis  rifle,  and  killed  the  animal  on  the  spot.  It  proved  to  be  a  cow 
moose,  the  last  known  native  of  its  race  in  New  York  State.^ 

To  decide  positively  between  these  two  claims  seems  now 
fjimpossible.  They  at  least  simmer  the  discussion  down  to  a 
narrow  margin.  The  dates  are  but  a  few  months  apart. 
Most  people,  I  fancy,  will  incline  to  wish  the  distinction  upon 
Alvah,  if  merely  from  a  sense  of  poetic  justice.  The  man 
and  the  event  seem  logically  interlocked.  To  be  told  that 
Alvah  did  not  kill  the  last  moose,  is  like  being  told  that  St. 
Greorge  did  not  kill  the  last  dragon. 

For  the  first  half  of  his  life  Alvah  made  his  headquarters 

1  "Men  I  Have  Fished  With."     Field  and  Stream,  April,  1897. 
^Century   Magazine,   January,    1894.     See   also:     "Moose,"   Forest,   Fish,   and 
rame  Conmvission  Report  for  1001,  p.  235. 


110  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

around  Lake  Pleasant  and  Lake  Piseco,  and  probably  would 
have  continued  to  do  so,  had  not  the  episode  with  his  faith- 
less wife  occurred.  When  he  discovered  that  she  had  strayed 
from  the  narrow  path,  he  inflicted  so  brutal  a  chastisement 
upon  her  that  even  a  somewhat  callous  backwoods  community 
raised  the  hue  and  cry  against  him.  The  penalty  of  the  law 
also  was  invoked,  and  his  only  hope  of  avoiding  arrest,  and 
perhaps  something  worse,  w^as  to  leave  the  settlement  by 
stealth  and  wdth  despatch.  He  plunged  into  the  deeper 
woods,  and  remained  in  them  the  greater  part  of  his  life. 

For  a  considerable  time,  of  course,  he  was  obliged  to  keep 
in  absolute  hiding,  and  his  enjoyment  of  complete  solitude 
determined  him  to  become  a  permanent  hermit.  This  seemed 
a  perfectly  simple  thing  to  do  in  the  woods  of  those  days,  but 
it  proved  otherwise.  The  xVdirondacks  had  been  discovered; 
their  deepest  solitudes  were  springing  leaks,  as  it  were,  and 
people  kept  oozing  in.  Thus  all  Alvah's  eiforts  to  be  a  real 
hermit  were  sooner  or  later  frustrated,  and  he  took  the  disap- 
pointment much  to  heart.  The  discovery  that  civilization 
abhors  a  hermit  dawned  on  him  as  a  personal  persecution 
which  finally  drove  him  out  of  the  woods. 

The  people  who  disturbed  his  loneliness  at  first  were  those 
who  knew  of  his  wonderful  woodcraft  and  sought  his  services 
as  guide.  He  cared  but  little  for  the  money  they  brought 
him,  and  less  for  the  company. 

''They  pay  me  well  enough,"  he  would  say,  "but  I  'd  rather 
they  'd  stay  out  o'  my  woods.  They  come,  and  I  might  as 
w^ell  guide  'em  as  anybody,  but  I  'd  ruther  they  'd  stay  ter 
hum  and  keep  their  money.  I  don't  need  it.  I  kin  git  along 
without  'em.     They  're  mostly  dumed  fools,  anyhow!" 

This  estimate  of  city-dwellers  fell  often  from  his  lips.  It 
was  not  evoked  solely  by  flippancy  of  dress  or  awkwardness 
in  woodcraft;  it  was  meant  to  imply  in  many  cases  nothing 
less  than  intellectual  inferiority.  Early  in  his  career  he  had 
discovered  that  the  man  he  was  guiding  thought  the  earth  was 
round,  that  it  turned  over  like  a  restless  sleeper  in  the  night, 
and  did  other  strange  things  utterly  out  of  keeping  with  a 
rational  universe.    Alvah  was  convinced  that  he  had  met  a 


ALVAH  DUNNING  111 

freak,  and  treasured  the  experience  as  a  delightful  joke.  He 
told  it  to  those  who  were  expected  to  relish  the  keen  humor 
of  the  thing,  but  often  only  to  find  that  he  had  added  another 
freak  to  his  list.  This  gradually  became  so  extended  that  he 
came  to  believe  that  most  people  who  wanted  a  guide  also 
needed  a  keeper.  Those  who  wished  to  stand  well  with  him 
used  diplomacy  and  allowed  him  to  think  that  they  shared  his 
point  of  view.  Argument  was  useless.  He  would  take  a  cup 
of  water,  turn  it  over,  and  remark  cynically : 

"Ain't  that  what  wud  happen  to  yer  lakes  and  rivers  if  yer 
turned  'em  upside  down?  I  ain't  believin'  no  such  tommy- 
rot  as  that!" 

And  he  never  did.  Although  he  lived  to  be  nearly  ninety, 
he  died  in  the  unshaken  conviction  that  the  earth  was  flat  and 
stationary.  His  attitude  toward  the  game  laws  was  similar: 
his  reasoning  did  not  go  beyond  what  seemed  to  him  the  obvi- 
ous. There  was  plenty  of  game  in  the  woods,  and  when  he  was 
hungrj^  he  felt  privileged  to  take  it.  He  looked  upon  this  pre- 
rogative as  a  hunter's  right  of  eminent  domain — as  an  inher- 
ited feudal  freedom  of  the  chase.  His  father  had  lived  by  gun 
and  rod,  and  he  had  been  bred  to  these  weapons  of  livelihood 
from  infancy.  His  right  to  live  was  his  right  to  kill.  He  was 
an  old  man,  moreover,  before  any  radical  game  laws  were 
enacted,  and  so  he  only  resented  them  the  more.  They  were 
a  newfangled  notion — another  change  for  the  worse.  Speak- 
ing of  happier  times,  he  would  say : 

*'In  the  old  days  I  could  kill  a  little  meat  when  I  needed  it, 
but  now  they  're  a-savin'  it  for  them  city  dudes  with  velvet 
suits  and  pop-guns,  that  can't  hit  a  deer  if  they  see  it,  and 
don't  want  it  if  they  do  hit  it.  But  they  'd  put  me  in  jail  if  I 
killed  a  deer  'cause  I  was  hungry.  I  dunno  what  we  're 
a-comin'  to  in  this  'ere  free  country!" 

5  As  a  matter  of  fact,  he  was  never  put  in  jail,  nor  was  he 
ever  prosecuted  for  violating  the  game  laws,  although  he  con- 
|tinued  to  break  them  to  the  end  of  his  life.  The  authorities 
seemed  tacitly  agreed  to  leave  him  unmolested.  It  was 
largely  out  of  sympathy  for  the  lonely  old  man,  and  partly 
because  they  knew  that  he  made  no  flagrant  abuse  of  his  im- 


112  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

munity.  He  never  traded  in  his  contraband.  He  killed  only 
when  his  larder  needed  replenishing,  and  this  never  happened 
from  any  waste  on  his  part. 

Even  when  guiding  he  was  averse  to  any  superfluous  slaugh- 
ter, and  would  oppose  it  either  openly  or  by  stealth.  He  was 
always  angry  if  any  unused  meat  was  left  in  the  woods,  and 
indignant  if  any  one  shot  a  deer  merely  for  the  sake  of  carry- 
ing home  some  part  of  it  as  a  trophy.  This  attitude  was 
naturally  considered  poor  business  by  many  of  his  brother 
guides,  and  it  made  him  unpopular  with  them  and  the  whole 
breed  of  porcine  hunters.  When  he  consented  to  act  as  guide 
— which  was  not  always — he  gave  full  value  for  his  wages. 
He  neither  shirked  nor  loafed,  and  if  he  did  not  deliver  the 
goods,  it  was  no  fault  of  his. 

Dr.  Gerster  has  told  me  of  an  experience  in  this  connection 
which  shows  a  surprising  sense  of  honor  in  one  who  was  often 
supposed  to  have  very  little.  It  is,  moreover,  I  believe,  a 
unique  incident  in  the  annals  of  guidedom.  The  doctor  was 
to  go  out  with  some  untried  hunters,  and  to  take  his  ovm 
guide.  He  took  Alvah  Dunning.  The  day's  sport  was  badly 
bungled,  and  nothing  but  vexation  came  of  it.  The  doctor, 
disgusted,  decided  to  go  home  early,  and  attempted  to  set- 
tle with  Alvah.  But  the  latter,  equally  disgusted,  flatly  re- 
fused to  take  any  money.  **I  ain't  done  nothin'  to  earn  it," 
he  said,  *'and  I  won't  take  it" — and  this  despite  the  fact  that 
no  share  of  the  day's  fiasco  attached  to  him,  because  he  had 
been  forced  to  submit  to  the  mismanagement  of  others. 

Where  this  was  not  the  case,  the  word  failure  was  seldom 
written  into  his  records.  He  was  probably  the  most  wily  and 
resourceful  hunter,  fisher,  and  trapper  the  Adirondacks  ever 
housed.  John  Cheney  and  Mitchell  Sabattis  alone  were  in  his 
class.  They  had  sturdier  characters  and  broader  minds,  but 
it  is  doubtful  if  they  possessed  all  his  refinements  in  wood- 
craft. They  spent  much  time  in  the  woods,  but  he  lived  there 
all  of  the  time,  and  for  the  most  part  alone.  The  human  voice 
was  less  familiar  to  him  than  the  noises  of  birds  and  animals, 
and  he  often  seemed  able  to  understand  and  speak  their  lan- 
guage. He  could  lure  the  timid  mink  from  its  hole  by  imita- 
tive chippering,  and  trick  a  frightened  deer  back  to  the  water's 


i 


;tM  .t'-hiii^  l.y  Dr.  Arpuil  ii    tierster 

ALVAH   DUXXIXG 
Venator,  piscator  et  laqueator,  natus  a.d.  1814,  mortuus  10  Martii.  igo2 


ALVAH  DUNNING  113 

edge  by  deceptive  bleatings  with  his  throat  and  splashings 
with  his  hands. 

After  his  enforced  disappearance  from  the  settlements,  he 
became  a  lone  dweller  on  Blue  Mountain  Lake.  Here  he  later 
on  fell  in  and  then  out  with  Ned  Buntline,  and  carried  on  his 
famous  guerrilla  feud  with  that — from  Alvah's  point  of  view 
— highly  undesirable  and  offensive  citizen.^  This  and  the 
fact  that  people  began  to  stray  into  Blue  Mountain  Lake  more 
frequently  than  seemed  consistent  with  his  ideas  of  solitude, 
caused  him  to  move  over  to  Raquette  Lake  in  1865.  Here,  for 
twelve  winters,  he  lived  absolutely  alone  on  its  shores,  and  it 
was  a  long  time  before  he  could  complain  of  being  crowded 
by  summer  visitors.  One  of  the  earliest  of  these  was  Adiron- 
dack Murray,  whom  he  liked  and  for  whom  he  often  guided. 

Alvah  at  first  made  his  home  on  Indian  Point,  but  in  the 
autumn  of  1869  he  took  possession  of  the  open  camp  on  Osprey 
Island  which  Murray  had  built  there  and  occupied  for  three 
summers.  Alvah  enclosed  this  and  lived  in  it  till  it  burned 
down  in  1875.  He  then  erected  a  rough  shanty — his  abodes 
were  always  very  crude  and  unlovely  affairs — and  continued 
to  occupy  the  island  till  about  1880.^ 

About  this  time,  Dr.  Thomas  C.  Durant,  who  owned  the 
island,  wished  to  sell  it  to  his  nephew  Charles  Durant.  Alvah 
was,  therefore,  requested  to  vacate.  But  he  refused.  It  al- 
ways made  him  angry  to  be  told  that  his  squatter  rights  were 
not  tantamount  to  a  clear  title.    In  this  case  he  not  only  took 

1  See  Chap.  XXXVIII,  "  'Ned  Buntline.'  " 

2  This  second  home  on  Osprey  Island  was  built  at  the  foot  of  a  big  cedar,  three 
feet  in  diameter.  Once  during  a  severe  storm  Alvah  noticed  that  the  side  of  his 
jhanty  was  lifted  several  inches  every  time  the  big  tree  swayed  in  the  gale. 
When  the  wind  subsided,  he  cut  down  the  dangerous  tree  and  dug  up  the  roots. 
Under  them  he  found  a  bed  of  coals,  which  seemed  to  indicate  an  ancient  focus 
jr  hearth.  In  this  he  discovered  the  shreds  of  three  earthen  pots,  which  must 
have  been  of  great  antiquity,  because  the  tree  proved  to  be  between  four  and  five 
lundred  years  old.  Alvah  gave  these  interesting  relics  to  Dr.  Arpad  G.  Gerster 
)f  New  York,  who  now  has  his  summer  home  on  Long  Lake,  and  to  whom  1  am 
ndebted  for  the  facts  concerning  them.  Dr.  Gerster  also  informs  me  that  near 
he  Brown's  Tract  Inlet  shanty  Alvah  found  other  finely  decorated  bits  of  pot- 
ery,  and  a  very  beautiful  ax  of  greenish  stone.  All  of  which  tends  to  confirm 
he  theory,  advanced  by  some  historians  and  mentioned  earlier  in  this  work,  that 
hese  woods  once  housed  a  prehistoric  race  whose  skill  in  the  rude  arts  exceeded 
hat  of  the  Indians. 


114  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

the  position  of  a  man  with  a  warranty  deed  behind  him  but  he 
made  tlie  more  impressive  gesture  of  a  man  with  a  gun  at  his 
shoulder.  He  threatened  to  shoot  any  one  who  put  foot  on  the 
island.  This  brought  matters  to  an  awkward  dead-lock,  of 
course.  Eviction  by  force  had  many  drawbacks  and  the  door 
to  diplomacy  was  not  easy  to  open,  but  Mrs.  Thomas  Duraut 
finally  found  a  way  of  doing  it.  She  caught  the  trouble  maker 
in  an  uncommissioned  mood  one  day  and  induced  liim  to  come 
and  drink  a  cup  of  tea  with  her  at  Camp  Pine  Knot.  He  had, 
as  she  knew,  a  particular  weakness  for  this  beverage,  and  in 
this  case,  combined  with  feminine  persuasiveness,  it  acted  as 
an  opiate  in  his  stubbornness.  He  consented  to  move  off  the 
island  and  to  accept  one  hundred  dollars  for  being  so  obliging. 
After  the  conference  he  said:  '*Alvah  can  be  coaxed,  but  he 
can't  be  druv." 

Despite  this  he  always  nursed  a  grouch  over  the  incident. 
He  decided  that  Raquette  Lake  was  getting  far  too  crowded 
for  comfort,  and  again  he  tried  to  find  seclusion  by  settling 
on  the  shores  of  Eighth  Lake  in  the  Fulton  Chain.  But  his 
fate  pursued  him  here.  His  loneliness  did  not  endure.  He 
soon  found  himself  on  a  highway  of  ever  increasing  travel, 
and  finally  a  small  shanty,  pretending  to  cater  to  tourists,  was 
built  on  the  only  island  in  the  lake.  This  looked  like  a  hotel 
to  Alvah,  and  in  despair  he  wandered  back  to  Raquette  Lake. 
This  time  he  built  near  the  entrance  to  Brown's  Tract  Inlet. 
From  time  to  time  he  went  back  to  Eighth  Lake,  however,  and 
he  made  his  last  headquarters  in  the  woods  there. 

His  hut  near  Brown's  Tract  Inlet  was  built  in  1896,  and  for 
three  years  he  enjoyed  it  unmolested.  But  then  one  day  a 
stranger  appeared  on  the  scene,  armed  with  legal  papers,  legal 
phrases,  and  bank-bills.  He  explained  to  Alvah  that  the  site 
he  occupied  was  needed  for  a  railway  station,^  and  offered  to 
pay  him  for  vacating  it.  The  announcement  that  a  locomotive 
was  actually  to  come  puffing  and  screeching  to  the  very  shores 
of  his  sanctum,  affected  him  much  as  if  he  had  been  hit  by  it. 
He  was  simply  stunned  into  docility.  Instead  of  offering  to 
shoot  the  stranger,  he  meekly  accepted  his  money  and  agreed 
to  move  out.    But  his  spirit  and  his  heart  seemed  broken. 

1  For  the  Raquette  Lake  Railroad.     See  Chap.  XL,  "Railroads." 


ALVAH  DUNNING  115 

*'I  guess  I  Ve  lived  too  long,"  he  said,  with  a  real  tear  in 
his  voice.  '*I  used  to  hope  I  could  die  in  peace  in  the  wilder- 
ness where  I  was  bora,  but  if  I  don't  slip  my  wind  pretty 
quick,  I  guess  there  ain't  goin'  to  be  no  wilderness  to  die  in. 
I  've  heerd  tell  the  Rockies  was  bigger.  I  guess  I  '11  go  out 
yonder  and  hunt  for  a  quiet  corner  out  o'  reach  of  tootin' 
steamboats  and  screechin'  en-gines." 

And  he  did.  This  old  man  of  eighty-three,  who  felt  himself 
jostled  and  elbowed  out  of  overcrowded  woods,  wandered 
forth  across  the  continent  in  a  last,  long  quest  for  solitude  and 
peace.  The  parting  seemed  to  pull  at  his  heartstrings  as 
nothing  else  had  ever  done  before.  He  even  went  around  and 
said  good-by  to  his  friends  among  the  summer  campers,  most 
of  whom  had  always  treated  him  with  charity  and  kindness. 
He  seemed  to  realize  it  now  more  than  ever.  His  farewells 
were  not  effusive,  but  their  simplicity  was  touched  with  sol- 
emn pathos.  There  was  something  in  them  after  all  of  royal 
abdication.  Here  was  a  rude  king  of  the  woods  leaving  his 
inherited  domain — a  Lear  of  the  forest  being  driven  out  into 
the  night. 

It  was  in  1899  that  he  went  West,  but  he  did  not  stay.  The 
pull  of  the  Adirondacks  proved  too  strong.  Within  a  year 
he  was  back  on  the  shores  of  his  beloved  Raquette  Lake 
again — this  time  on  Golden  Beach,  near  South  Inlet.  But  it 
was  not  the  Alvah  of  yore  that  came  back;  it  was  Alvah  the 
last  phase — a  man  broken  in  spirit,  and  bending  beneath  the 
weight  of  years  and  disappointments.  He  fished  and  hunted 
a  little,  and  was  employed  by  the  old  campers  as  ex-officio 
guide  or  salaried  guest  in  the  summer.  The  winters  he  no 
longer  spent  alone ;  he  even  consented  to  spend  them  in  cities. 
His  double  trip  across  the  continent  had  softened  his  attitude 
toward  travel  and  companionship.  It  had  changed  the  hermit 
into  something  of  a  gadabout.  He  spent  his  last  winters  in 
various  places  with  different  people,  but  principally  with  a 
sister  who  lived  in  Syracuse. 

In  March,  1902,  he  attended  the  Sportsmen's  Show  in  New 
York.  On  his  way  home  he  stopped  at  Utica  and  put  up  for 
the  night  at  the  Dudley  House— a  hotel  where  illuminating- 
gas  was  still  in  use.     The  following  morning  he  was  found 


116  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

asphyxiated  in  his  bed — the  gas-jet  had  been  leaking  all  night. 
That  the  occurrence  was  an  accident  there  seems  no  good  rea- 
son to  doubt.  His  death  took  place  on  March  10th,  and  the 
papers  all  over  the  country  published  lengthy  obituaries  of 
*'The  Last  of  the  Great  Adirondack  Guides." 

The  manner  of  his  death  was  the  crowding  irony  of  his  fate. 
All  his  life  he  had  considered  himself  hounded  by  the  en- 
croachments of  civilization,  and  he  succumbed  at  last  in  at- 
tempting to  use  one  of  its  antiquated  devices.  In  the  safety 
of  the  woods  he  might  have  Uved  to  be  a  hundred ;  as  it  was, 
he  died  prematurely  from  the  dangers  of  a  room,  at  the  age  of 
eighty-six.  As  he  had  begun  to  hunt  and  trap  with  his  father 
when  six  years  old,  he  had  a  record  of  virtually  eighty  years 
in  the  woods.  During  most  of  them  he  lived  entirely  alone, 
and  during  many  of  them  in  complete  isolation.  Up  to  the 
last  few  years  of  his  life  he  retained  wonderful  vigor  and 
endurance.  Commenting  on  this  in  a  delightful  little  sketch  ^ 
of  the  guide  he  knew  so  well,  my  friend  Dr.  Gerster  says: 

I  saw  him  in  his  70th  year  carry  a  boat  across  to  Eighth  Lake,  a 
distance  of  one  and  a  half  miles,  with  two  rests  only,  and  I  found  him 
on  another  occasion  at  dawn  on  the  beach  of  his  lake,  fast  asleep, 
curled  up  like  a  woodchiick,  dusted  all  over  with  snow  which  was 
falling.  He  had  come  to  the  lake  after  dark.  His  calls  were  drowned 
by  the  wind,  hence  not  heard  by  us ;  so  he  decided  to  sleep  where  he 
was  and  succeeded  capitally,  without  blanket  or  sheUer.  Alarmed 
about  him,  we  started  to  look  for  him  on  the  carry,  where  many  trees 
had  been  blown  down  by  the  storm.  He  slept  like  a  child  and  had  to 
be  shaken  out  of  his  slumbers. 

He  remained,  indeed,  throughout  his  life  a  child  of  the 
woods,  not  only  physically  but  mentally  and  morally.  And  as 
such  he  must  be  judged.  He  was  notable  for  his  skill,  his  her- 
mit habits,  and  a  strange  mixture  of  lawlessness  and  honesty. 
He  had  no  gift  for  making  friends.  He  was,  rather,  an  adept 
in  the  gentle  art  of  not  making  them.  Yet  he  was  friendly  and 
faithful  to  those  whom  he  liked.  His  defenders  were  among 
the  best  sportsmen;  his  detractors  were,  for  the  most  part, 
among  the  worst. 

1  "Etching  as  a  Diversion."     The  Medical  Pickuick,  October,  1916. 


I 


ALVAH  DUNNING  117 

His  fellow  guides,  as  a  rule,  did  not  like  him,  but  Jack  Shep- 
pard,  one  of  the  most  popular  and  intelligent  Fulton  Chain 
guides  of  the  old  days,  who  had  known  Alvah  for  thirty  years, 
once  spoke  of  him  to  Fred  Mather  in  these  words :^  "He 
was  an  honest  and  hospitable  man  of  the  old  style,  all  of  whom 
looked  on  game  laws  as  infringements  on  the  rights  of  men 
who  live  in  the  woods.  He  was  the  last  of  a  type  that  is 
passed.  He  killed  deer  when  he  needed  it,  caught  a  trout  out 
of  season  to  bait  his  trap,  firmly  believed  it  a  sin  to  kill  waste- 
fully,  and  destroyed  less  game  than  many  who  cried  out 
against  him." 

Let  this  be  his  epitaph.  It  would  be  difficult  to  phrase  a 
better  one  for  this  old  "hunter  home  from  the  hill." 

i"Men  I  Have  Fislied  With."     Field  a7id  Stream,  April,   1897. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII 
"NED  BUNTLINE" 

THIS  was  the  pen-name  of  Edward  Zane  Carroll  Judson, 
who  swaggered  into  the  lime-light  of  popularity  as  a 
swash-buckling  adventurer  and  a  prolific  purveyor  of  penny- 
dreadfuls,  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  His  contri- 
bution to  English  literature  was  not  lasting,  but  it  was  quan- 
titative and  lucrative.  It  brought  him  a  measure  of  fame, 
and  he  is  given  a  place  in  dictionaries  of  biography.  He 
earned  mention  here  by  living  in  the  Adirondacks  in  his  later 
life  and  leaving  a  short  but  vivid  trail  behind  him. 

He  was  born  in  Philadelphia  in  1822.  His  father  was  a 
lawyer  of  standing  in  that  city.  The  elder  Judson  wished  his 
son  to  become  a  clergyman,  but  the  boy  decided  on  a  different 
career  at  a  very  early  age.  "When  only  eleven  years  old  he 
ran  away  from  home  and  went  to  sea  as  a  cabin-boy.  A  year 
later  he  found  berth  on  a  man-of-w^ar. 

According  to  one  account  of  his  life,  when  he  was  thirteen 
years  old  he  saved  the  occupants  of  a  small  craft  that  had  been 
run  into  and  upset  by  a  Fulton  Ferry  boat.  The  rescue  was 
plucky  and  spectacular,  and  w^as  brought  to  the  attention  of 
President  Van  Buren,  who,  as  reward,  offered  the  young  hero 
a  commission  as  midshipman  in  the  United  States  Navy.  Ned 
was  probably  more  than  thirteen  at  the  time,  however,  for  the 
records  show  that  he  was  midshipman  from  February  10, 
1838,  to  June  8, 1842,  when  he  resigned. 

During  these  four  years  in  the  navy  he  added  to  his  reputa- 
tion for  valor  by  fighting  seven  duels  \\ath  shipmates  who  as- 
sumed to  slight  him  for  having  been  a  common  sailor.  He 
came  out  of  all  these  encounters  victorious  and  unscathed.  It 
was  also  during  this  time  that  he  began  writing,  and  his  first 
story  was  published  in  the  ''Knickerbocker  Magazine"  in 
1838.  It  met  with  marked  success,  .and  others  followed  rap- 
idly. 

118 


^*NED  BUNTLINE"  119 

Ned  was  in  the  Mexican  War  and  in  the  Seminole  War  in 
Florida.  In  1S48  he  became  editor  of  a  New  York  story- 
paper  called  "Ned  Buntline's  Own."  In  the  spring  of  the 
following  year  the  memorable  quarrel  between  the  American 
actor  Edwin  Forrest  and  his  English  rival  Macready,  came 
to  a  head  in  the  Astor  Place  riots.  The  press  on  both  sides 
of  the  controversy  was  virulently  bitter,  and  the  editor  of 
**Ned  Buntline's  Own"  used  the  paper  for  language  of  the 
most  blatant  spread-eagleism.  On  the  eventful  night  of  May 
10,  1849 — when  things  came  to  a  violent  climax — Ned  was 
arrested  for  haranguing  a  crowd  in  Lafayette  Place.  Ho  was 
sentenced  to  pay  a  fine  of  $250  and  to  one  year's  imprison- 
ment. After  his  release  he  began  writing  stories  again,  and 
then  it  was  that  he  took  the  name  of  '*Ned  Buntline,"  from 
the  paper  he  had  formerly  edited.  Thereafter  he  w^as 
scarcely  known  by  any  other. 

He  had  a  fatal  facility  for  turning  out  trashy  stuff  about 
impossible  heroes  and  foiled  villains.  While  editor  of  the 
story-paper  he  is  said  to  have  run  six  serials  at  the  same  time 
from  his  o\\m  pen  but  under  different  names.  There  was  al- 
ways the  ending  of  one  and  the  beginning  of  another  in  each 
issue  of  the  paper.  And  this  sort  of  thing  paid  surprisingly 
well.  It  is  recorded  that  he  earned  no  less  than  $20,000  a 
year  in  the  heyday  of  his  ink-slinging. 

In  his  earlier  days  he  wrote  a  realistic  sketch  of  Bowery 
life  called  *'The  Mysteries  and  Miseries  of  New  York."  It 
was  made  into  a  play  and  put  on  the  stage  under  the  name  of 
"New  York  as  It  Is."  F.  S.  Chanfrau  made  a  big  hit  in  the 
leading  part  of  Mose,  who  was  a  pure-hearted,  slangy-mouthed 
Bowery  tough,  clad  in  a  red  shirt  and  acutely  tilted  Derby  hat. 
The  picturesque  pearls  that  fell  from  his  lips  were  eagerly 
garnered  into  the  vocabulary  of  every  school-boy  of  the  time. 

Ned  went  to  the  Adirondacks  in  1859,  and  made  them  his 
headquarters  for  two  years.  Soon  after  the  Civil  War  broke 
out  he  enlisted  and  served  ^vith  distinction.  He  came  out  of 
it  with  five  wounds,  one  of  which  made  him  slightly  lame  for 
the  rest  of  his  life.  In  Suffolk,  Va.,  he  was  appointed  chief  of 
scouts,  with  the  rank  of  Colonel.  Wlien  his  regiment  went 
into  -udnter  quarters  he  was  given  a  cabin  in  which  to  do  his 


120  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

writing.  In  his  leisure  moments  he  was  always  writing  or— 
drinking.  An  extremist  in  all  things,  he  was  extremely  fond 
of  the  cup  that  cheers.  He  reformed  in  later  life,  however, 
and  became  a  temperance  lecturer  for  the  Order  of  Good  Tem- 
plars. He  also  founded  the  Order  of  the  Sons  of  Temper- 
ance. 

According  to  Fred  Mather,  who  wrote  an  interesting  sketch 
of  him  for  "Forest  and  Stream"  (July,  1897),  Ned  was  the 
discoverer  and  original  promoter  of  Buffalo  Bill  (William  C. 
Cody)  and  Texas  Jack  (John  Omohondro).  He  pulled  them 
out  of  an  unappreciative  West,  clothed  them  with  the  romance 
of  thrilling  adventure,  and  launched  them  loudly  on  a  recep- 
tive East.     The  sequel  is  known  to  every  one. 

Ned  left  the  Adirondacks  in  1861,  and  settled  in  the  Cats- 
kills.  He  built  himself  a  really  handsome  home  there  in 
Stamford,  Delaware  County,  N.  Y.,  and  transferred  to  it  the 
name  of  "Eagle's  Nest."  There  he  spent  the  last  years  of 
his  life,  and  there  he  died  on  July  16,  1886. 

He  undoubtedly  had  in  him  the  makings  of  a  big  man,  but 
he  sadly  misused  the  ingredients.  He  was  unquestionably 
brave  and  daring,  a  sincere  patriot,  and  a  stanch  and  generous 
friend,  but  he  spoiled  these  sterling  traits  by  loud  mouthings 
and  a  braggadocio  manner  that  made  him  appear  like  one  of 
his  o^vn  cheap  heroes.  He  took  himself,  his  deeds,  and  his 
writings  with  profound  and  admiring  seriousness,  and  utterly 
lacked  the  saving  grace  of  humor.  He  was  at  times  as  tender- 
hearted as  a  woman,  and  again  as  fierce  as  a  tiger.  The  tail 
of  his  eye  was  always  scouting  for  trouble,  and  if  he  failed 
to  find  it  for  his  own  account,  he  was  eager  to  take  up  the 
quarrel  of  any  friend  or  chance  acquaintance.  He  carried  a 
chip  on  his  shoulder  wherever  he  went,  and  of  course  he  took 
it  to  the  Adirondacks  with  him. 

He  settled  there,  as  has  been  said,  in  1859.  He  built  a  log 
cabin  on  the  north  shore  of  Eagle  Lake,  and  called  it  "Eagle's 
Nest."  He  took  with  him  to  this  lonely  spot  a  very  young 
wife,  who  died  there  in  childbirth  the  following  year.  She 
was  buried  near  the  cabin,  but  many  years  later  her  remains 
were  removed  to  the  Protestant  Cemetery  on  Blue  Mountain 


"NED  BUNTLINE"  121 

Lake,  where  a  bronze  tablet,  bearing  the  f  ollomng  inscription, 
was  placed  over  them : 

Here  lie  tlie  remains  of  Eva  Gardner,  wife  of  E.  C.  Z.  Judson  (Ned  Buntline), 
together  with  her  infant.  She  died  at  "Eagle's  Nest"  March  4,  1860,  in  the  nine- 
teenth year  of  her  age.  and  was  hiiried  where  a  constant  desecration  of  her  grave 
was  inevitahle,  to  avoid  which  the  bodies  were  removed  and  this  monument 
erected  in  1S91  by  William  West  Durant. 

While  in  the  mountains  Ned  spent  most  of  his  time  writing, 
with  hunting  and  fishing  as  local  relaxations.  When  he  had 
written  himself  very  dry,  which  was  not  infrequently,  he 
would  go  to  the  settlements — usually  to  Glens  Falls — and  sit 
near  a  barrel  of  whisky  as  long  as  it  lasted.  Then  he  would 
return  to  his  wild-wood  home,  for  he  was  punctilious  about 
his  sprees:  he  would  never  take  more  than  one  barrel  at  a 
sitting. 

His  Adirondack  record  was  true  to  type.  It  was  lifted  into 
local  prominence  by  a  spectacular  feud  with  Alvah  Dunning. 
After  settling  on  Eagle  Lake  he  arrogated  to  himself  the  sole 
right  to  fish  in  its  waters  and  hunt  on  its  shores.  They  be- 
came his  private  preserve,  and  he  resented  any  intrusion.  He 
is  said  to  have  frightened  away  several  surprised  fishermen 
by  appearing  before  his  cabin,  dressed  as  an  Indian,  executing 
a  war-dance,  and  emitting  threatening  yells.  To  this,  if  nec- 
essary, would  occasionally  be  added  a  warning  shot  from  liis 
gun. 

After  building  Eagle's  Nest,  Ned  hired  Alvah  Dunning  as 
guide  and  helper.  The  partnership  was  brief,  however.  The 
two  men  rubbed  each  other  the  wrong  way  from  the  start. 
They  quarreled  at  first  over  little  things,  and  then  over  bigger 
ones.  The  final  split  was  over  the  killing  of  game.  Ned,  who 
had  money  and  could  buy  all  the  supplies  he  needed,  main- 
tained that  the  few  game  laws  which  then  existed  should  be 
rigidly  observed  and  enforced,  and  set  himself  up  as  their  self- 
appointed  crusader.  Alvah,  who  had  no  money,  and  had  al- 
ways subsisted  by  his  gun  and  rod,  claimed  the  right  to  kill  a 
deer  or  catch  a  fish  whenever,  and  also  wherever,  he  was  hun- 
gry. He  snapped  his  fingers,  moreover,  at  Ned's  assumed 
control  of  Eagle  Lake.    Neither  man  could  get  the  other's 


122  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

point  of  view.  Argument  became  abuse,  and  abuse  verged  on 
violence.  They  parted  swearing  eternal  hatred  and  ven- 
geance, and  threatening  to  shoot  each  other  on  sight.  This 
they  never  did,  but  they  did  everything  else  that  could  annoy 
and  harass,  and  the  incidents  of  their  locally  famous  feud  were 
the  daily  gossip  of  the  woods  around  1860. 

Speaking  of  the  affair  to  Fred  Mather  in  later  years,  Ned, 
in  tones  of  contempt,  referred  to  Alvah  as  an  ' '  amaroogian. " 
The  author  of  ''Men  I  Have  Fished  With"  admits  he  could 
find  this  word  in  no  dictionary,  and  then  adds:  *'Yet  some- 
how I  seem  to  know  that  it  signifies  a  kind  of  unsophisticated 
woodsman,  who  cannot  fraternize  with  a  man  of  the  world 
like  Ned  Buntline." 

The  Adirondack  sojourn  yielded  a  more  permanent  bid  for 
fame,  however,  than  the  Alvah  Dunning  quarrel.  In  the  first 
enthusiasm  of  his  new  mountain  home,  Ned  sat  down  and 
wrote  some  verses  in  its  praise  that  had  a  catching  lilt  and  a 
true  ring  to  them.  They  spread  like  wild-fire  through  the 
papers  of  the  day,  and  were  finally  enshrined  in  some  anthol- 
ogies. As  they  are  the  only  relic  of  his  enormous  output  that 
has  lived,  and  as  they  were  written  in  and  about  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  they  may  fittingly  be  appended  here : 

Where  the  silvery  gleam  of  the  rushing  stream 
Is  so  brightly  seen  on  the  rock's  dark  green, 
Where  the  white  pink  grows  by  the  wild  red  rose, 
And  the  bluebird  sings  till  the  welkin  rings; 

Where  the  red  deer  leaps  and  the  panther  creeps. 
And  the  eagles  scream  over  clifT  and  stream; 
Where  the  lilies  bow  their  heads  of  snow, 
And  the  hemlocks  tall  throw  a  shade  o'er  all ; 

Where  the  rolling  surf  laves  the  emerald  turf, 
Where  the  trout  leaps  high  at  the  hovering  fly. 
Where  the  sportive  fawn  crops  the  soft  green  lawn, 
And  the  crow's  shrill  cry  bodes  a  tempest  nigh — 
There  is  my  home — my  wildwood  home. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX 
OLD  MILITARY  ROADS 

THERE  are  three  so-called  "Old  Military  Roads"  that 
were  opened  through  the  Adirondacks  at  a  very  early 
date.  Tradition,  in  each  locality  through  which  they  ran, 
asserts  that  they  were  built  by  the  soldiers  in  1812,  but  tradi- 
tion, it  will  be  easy  to  show,  is  not  supported  by  the  recorded 
facts. 

These  roads  can  be  seen  on  certain  early  maps.  The  earli- 
est I  have  discovered  was  published  by  John  H.  Eddy  in  1818, 
and  is  in  the  Boston  Public  Library  (No.  143.5).  The  roads 
appear  again  on  a  map  of  New^  York  State  published  in  1830 
by  Silas  Andrus  of  Hartford,  Conn.  (Boston  Public  Library, 
Map  1016.12),  and  on  a  map  by  Andrus  &  Judd  of  Hartford, 
published  in  1833. 

The  roads  ran  actually  between  the  following  places.  The 
most  southerly  one  ran  from  Fish  House  to  Russell;  the  cen- 
tral one  from  Chester  to  Russell ;  and  the  northern  one  from 
Westport  to  Hopkinton. 

The  central  road  from  Chester  to  Russell  was  the  earliest 
one  to  be  projected.  It  was  authorized  by  an  act  of  1807  "to 
lay  out  and  open  a  road  from  the  to-s\Ti  of  Chester  to  the  town 
of  Canton."  Chester  is  in  the  northern  part  of  Warren 
County,  just  south  of  Schroon  Lake.  Canton  is  in  the  central 
part  of  St.  Lawrence  County,  a  little  north  of  Russell.  The 
road  only  reached  this  latter  place  at  first,  as  shown  by  maps 
of  1818  and  1833.  The  extension  to  Canton  was  not  made  till 
1834. 

The  exact  course  of  this  road  was  as  follows :  Starting  at 
Chester  it  ran  northwesterly  into  and  through  Essex  County, 
following  approximately  the  North  Branch  of  the  Hudson 
River.  It  then  turned  to  the  west,  passing  through  the  ex- 
treme northeastern  comer  of  Hamilton  County  and  crossing 
there  the  outlet  of  Long  Lake.     Thence  it  passed  into  the 

123 


124  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

extreme  southwestern  corner  of  Franklin  County,  and  so  into 
St.  Lawrence  County,  skirting  the  southern  end  of  Big  Tupper 
Lake.  After  that  it  followed  the  general  direction  of  the 
Grasse  River  to  Russell. 

Those  interested  in  seeing  the  exact  course  of  this  first 
highway  through  the  mountains  can  easily  do  so  by  securing 
one  of  the  folders  (Four-Track  Series  No.  20)  published  by 
the  Hudson  River  Railroad  Company.  This  folder  contains 
an  excellent  map  of  the  central  lake  region  of  the  Adirondack 
Mountains,  and  outlines  the  course  of  the  road  in  question.  It 
refers  to  it  as  ''the  Old  Mihtary  Road,  built  in  1812,  from 
Ogdensburg  to  Lake  George.  Now  nothing  but  a  trail  except 
in  portions  which  have  since  been  improved. '  * 

This  inscription  offers  several  points  of  interest.  It  tends 
to  perpetuate  the  persistent  legend  that  the  road  was  a  mili- 
tary one,  built  by  the  soldiers  in  1812.  This  is  clearly  dis- 
proved by  the  several  acts  passed  by  the  Legislature  concern- 
ing the  road.  They  do  not  contain  the  remotest  hint  of  any 
military  purpose.  The  road  was  begun,  moreover,  in  1808. 
It  was  evidently  completed,  or  nearly  so,  in  1812.  But  that 
was  a  mere  coincidence.  Nor  did  it  extend  from  Ogdensburg 
to  Lake  George.  Such  connections  were  made  at  a  much  later 
date.  The  original  road  began  at  Chester  and  extended  to 
Russell  only.  As  late  as  1833  the  map  to  which  I  have  re- 
ferred indicates  the  road  as  "State  Road  from  Chester  to 
Russell." 

Attention  should  be  called  to  the  fact  that  on  the  Hudson 
River  folder  the  first  long  westerly  bend  of  the  road  passes 
along  the  northern  edge  of  Hamilton  County,  instead,  as  in  the 
older  maps,  of  skirting  the  southern  edge  of  Franklin  County. 

A  peculiar  circumstance  which  people  have  associated  with 
this  road  has  undoubtedly  helped  to  lend  color  to  the  fable  of 
its  military  origin.  At  two  points  comparatively  near  the 
road  the  ruins  of  old  English  cannon  have  been  discovered, 
and  were  still  visible  in  1905. 

One  cannon  lay  in  the  Anthony  Ponds  clearing,  just  south 
of  the  road  in  its  westerly  turn  across  the  outlet  of  Long  Lake. 
The  other  lay  about  two  miles  south  of  Big  Tupper  Lake,  very 
near  the  boundary  line  between  Hamilton  and  St.  Lawrence 


OLD  MILITARY  ROADS  125 

counties.  This  also  w^as  south  of  the  old  road.  Both  of  the 
cannon  had  fallen  to  pieces  with  age ;  their  wood  had  turned  to 
mould,  their  iron  to  rust.  Their  brass  barrels  alone  had  re- 
sisted the  ravages  of  time.  These  showed  them  to  be  of  Eng- 
lish make  and  14-pounders. 

A  strange  but  enlightening  thing  happened  to  the  Tupper 
Lake  cannon.  After  it  fell  to  pieces  from  decay  a  tree  grew 
up  within  the  circle  of  one  of  the  iron  tires  of  its  wheels.  This 
tree,  a  beech,  was  two  feet  in  diameter  in  1900,  and  expert 
woodsmen  said  it  could  not  be  less  than  one  hundred  years 
old  at  that  time.  As  the  wheel  could  not  fall  off  the  gun- 
carriage  till  after  decay  had  set  in,  it  is  virtually  certain  that 
this  cannon — and  probably  its  mate,  only  a  few  miles  away — 
was  abandoned  not  only  before  1812  but  before  1800.  In 
other  words,  these  cannon  were  left  in  the  woods  long  before 
the  so-called  ''Old  Military  Road"  w^as  opened,  and  their 
being  found  near  it  is  mere  coincidence.  The  only  plausible 
explanation  of  their  presence  in  the  heart  of  the  woods  seems 
to  be  the  following : 

In  1776,  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution,  Sir  John  John- 
son, son  of  Sir  William,  was  forced  to  flee  from  his  ancestral 
home  near  Johnstown  with  a  number  of  his  Tory  friends  and 
followers.  They  made  their  way  through  the  heart  of  the 
Adirondacks  to  Montreal.^  They  had  every  reason  to  believe 
that  they  would  be  followed  and  attacked.  They  had,  there- 
fore, every  reason  to  carry  with  them  as  many  defensive 
weapons  as  they  could.  There  were  two  brass  field-pieces 
that  guarded  the  gates  of  Johnson  Hall.  They  disappeared 
at  this  time.  The  records  do  not  state  that  Sir  John  carried 
them  wdth  him,  but  this  now  seems  highly  probable.  It  was, 
at  all  events,  possible.  There  was  snow  on  the  ground,  for  the 
party  traveled  on  snow-shoes.  It  would  have  been  feasible, 
therefore,  to  drag  the  cannon  along  on  sleds.  At  Raquette 
Lake  the  party  was  overtaken  by  the  spring  thaw.  They  dis- 
carded their  snow-shoes  and  began  building  birch-bark  canoes 
for  further  progress  by  water. 

This  would,  of  course,  necessitate  the  abandonment  of  the 
cannon  at  that  point,  and  how  they  came  to  be  found  much 

1  See  Chap.  VI,  under  "Raquette." 


126  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

farther  north  can  only  be  conjecture  and  anybody's  guess. 
An  unsuccessful  attempt  to  save  them  may  have  been  made  at 
a  later  date.  Be  that  as  it  may,  there  is  much  circumstantial 
evidence  to  connect  these  cannon  with  those  that  stood  in 
front  of  Johnson  Hall,  and  their  presence  in  the  woods  can  be 
accounted  for  by  no  more  plausible  theory. 

The  next  road  to  be  authorized  and  begun  was  the  northerly 
one  from  North  West  Bay  (now  Westport),  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  to  Hopkinton  in  St.  Lawrence  County.  This  became 
the  most  important  and  best-kno^^^l  road  of  the  three  under 
consideration.  It  began  to  feed  the  most  rapidly  growing  set- 
tlements, and  long  stretches  of  it  have  been  improved  and  are 
in  use  to-day. 

It  ran,  and  still  runs,  through  the  village  of  Saranac  Lake, 
and  one  of  the  outlying  streets,  near  Highland  Park,  is  called 
**Old  Military  Road."  This  name  was  formerly  applied  to 
the  entire  highway,  and  the  usual  explanation  was  offered — 
that  it  was  built  by  the  soldiers  in  1812.  But  here,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  two  other  roads,  it  can  be  shown  that  the  supposi- 
tion of  military  genesis  is  pure  fable. 

The  original  course  of  this  road  was  as  follows : 

Starting  at  North  West  Bay,  or  Westport,  it  ran  through 
ElizabethtowTi  to  North  Elba,  past  John  Brown's  farm  to  Ray 
Brook.  From  there  it  followed  the  ''upper  road"  to  Saranac 
Lake,  entered  *'the  pines"  by  John  Benham's  old  cabin,  and 
emerged  by  the  Baker  Bridge.  Here  it  crossed  the  original 
wooden  bridge,  turned  around  the  north  end  of  the  first  Ensine 
Miller  house,  and  climbed  the  hill  to  Highland  Park,  coming 
into  it  near  Mrs.  Nichols's  property.  It  then  followed,  not 
exactly  but  in  a  general  direction,  the  Park  Avenue  of  to-day, 
finally  merging  with  it  at  a  spot  still  traceable.  This  is  near 
the  sanatorium  gate  and  the  houses  owned  by  Dr.  Brown  and 
Mrs.  Wicker. 

Entering  the  sanatorium  grounds  the  old  road  followed 
about  the  course  of  the  present  one,  but  turned  at  the  north 
comer  of  the  Administration  Building  and  climbed  the  hill 
past  Camp  Liberty,  and  then  skirted  the  edge  of  the  woods 
that  border  the  Smith  pasture. 

At  the  two  last-named  places  the  traces  of  an  old  road  are 


OLD  MILITARY  ROADS  127 

plainly  visible.  From  the  Smith  woods  the  road  emerged 
near  the  Kelleyville  school-house,  and  then  followed  approxi- 
mately the  present  road  to  Peck's  Comers,  and  so  on  to  Dick 
Finnegan's.  Here  it  left  the  present  Harrietstown  road,  but 
joined  it  again  at  the  brook  in  the  hollow.  Here  again  the 
old  road  left  the  present  one  and  turned  to  the  right  by  Will 
Manning's  bam.  Again  the  two  joined  for  a  little  way,  then 
diverged,  and  finally  reunited  at  Two  Bridge  Brook.  From 
there  on  the  old  road  took  virtually  the  course  of  the  present 
"stone  road"  through  West  Harrietstown,  passing  the  Noke's 
settlement,  and  so  on  toward  Paul  Smith's.  Near  where  the 
church  of  St.  John's  in  the  Wilderness  now  stands  and  where 
Levi  Rice  the  pioneer  settler  once  lived,  the  road  turned  north 
and  twisted  around  Barnum  Pond  up  to  McCollum's  and  then 
on  to  Sam  Meacham's  old  place  to  the  west  of  Meacham  Lake. 
From  here  the  road  turned  northwesterly,  following  in  gen- 
eral direction  the  East  Branch  of  the  St.  Regis  River  into  St. 
Lawrence  County. 

Reverting  now  to  the  theory  of  military  genesis,  there  are 
no  records  in  the  War  OflSce,  nor  in  the  general  literature  of 
1812  to  support  it.  It  is  completely  refuted,  moreover,  by  the 
legislative  acts  referring  to  the  road. 

The  first  was  passed  April  5,  1810.  It  read:  *' An  Act  to 
establish  and  improve  a  road  from  North  West  Bay  on  Lake 
Champlain,  to  Hopkinton  in  the  County  of  St.  Lawrence." 

The  text  of  the  act  says  that  the  new  road  is  '^to  communi- 
cate with  the  road  leading  through  the  town  of  Keene  and 
other  towns  in  the  coutny  of  Essex  to  North  West  Bay  on 
Lake  Champlain." 

As  the  Town  of  North  Elba  had  not  been  divided  from  the 
Town  of  Keene  in  1810,  the  reference  is  to  an  existing  road 
from  Westport  through  North  Elba,  which  had  been  opened 
two  or  three  years  earlier  at  private  expense.  That  this  road 
already  extended  as  far  as  Saranac  Lake  village  (which  lies 
partly  in  North  Elba)  is  shown  by  a  further  reference  in  the 
act,  which  speaks  of  the  bridge  across  the  Saranac  River  (the 
Baker  Bridge)  having  been  carried  away  by  a  flood,  and  ''the 
said  road  thereby,  and  by  the  falling  in  of  trees  and  want  of 
repairs,  hath  become  impassable  for  horses  and  carriages." 


128  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

This  shows  that  the  eastern  part  of  the  road  had  been 
opened  before  1810.  An  act  passed  June  19,  1812,  shows  pre- 
vious appropriations  to  "have  been  found  entirely  inadequate 
to  open  and  improve"  the  road.  It  was  not,  therefore,  used, 
nor  to  any  extent  usable,  in  1812.  Finally,  on  April  17,  1816, 
an  act  was  passed  to  ''complete"  the  road,  and  one  set  of  com- 
missioners was  appointed  to  complete  the  west  end,  and  an- 
other the  east  end.  The  evidence  of  all  the  acts  shows  clearly 
that  the  road  was  not  built  in  1812,  nor  by  the  soldiers.  It 
was  begun  about  four  years  before  the  war,  and  finished  about 
four  years  after.  Its  claim  to  being  a  military  road,  there- 
fore, becomes  purely  legendary.  Even  the  earliest  map  (John 
H.  Eddy,  1818)  labels  it  ''State  Road  North  West  Bay  to 
Hopkinton."  No  early  map  or  history  gives  it  a  military 
designation. 

Yet  there  is  no  doubt  that  it  was  locally  known  as  the  ' '  Old 
Military  Road,"  and  that  this  name  not  only  has  clung  to  it 
but  has  gradually  replaced  its  lawful  title  of  "North  West 
Bay  Road."  This  may  have  come  about,  I  am  inclined  to 
believe,  through  the  following  circumstances : 

A  glance  at  the  map  of  Grants  and  Patents  will  show  that 
the  North  West  Bay  Road,  a  few  miles  west  of  Westport, 
entered  and  crossed  the  Old  Military  Tract.  This  tract  has 
been  fully  described  in  a  preceding  chapter.  It  need  only 
be  recalled  here  that  it  was  a  land  feature  of  great  prominence 
in  its  day.  Its  object  was  impressed  on  men's  minds,  and  its 
name  was  frequently  on  their  lips.  It  is  not  at  all  improbable, 
therefore,  that  the  first  road  to  be  broken  through  it  was 
spoken  of  as  the  "Old  Military  Tract  Road."  Nor  is  it  im- 
probable that  the  tendency  to  abbreviation  soon  asserted 
itself,  and  that  the  word  "tract"  was  gradually  dropped  from 
the  title.  This  would  pass  the  name  "Old  Military  Road" 
down  to  a  second  generation  that  knew  nothing  of  its  possible 
origin,  and  referred  it  to  a  mere  association  of  ideas.  I  can- 
not say  that  this  explanation  is  correct,  for  I  have  been  unable 
to  confirai  it.  I  can  only  claim  that  it  has  plausibility,  where 
the  1812-soldier  theory  has  none.  Even  if  correct,  it  helps  us 
out  with  this  road  only,  and  throws  no  light  on  how  the  other 
two  came  to  be  called  "Old  Military  Roads." 


OLD  MILITARY  EOADS  129 

"We  now  come  to  the  last  of  these — the  one  from  Fish  House 
to  Russell. 

Fish  House  was  the  summer  home  of  Sir  William  Johnson, 
on  the  Sacondaga  River,  a  few  miles  north  of  Johnstown,  in 
Fulton  County.  From  here  the  road  passed  northwesterly 
into  Hamilton  County.  It  skirted  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Pleasant  and  then  passed  the  south  shore  of  Raquette  Lake. 
From  there  it  continued  to  the  outlet  of  Albany  Lake,  and  then 
crossed  the  northeast  corner  of  Herkimer  into  St.  Lawrence 
County,  striking  the  St.  Lawrence  Turnpike  about  ten  miles 
below  Russell. 

The  first  part  of  this  road,  from  Fish  House  to  Raquette 
Lake,  followed  the  old  Indian  trail  into  the  wilderness,  and  is 
the  one  used  by  Sir  John  Johnson  in  his  retreat.  Albany 
Lake  (named  after  the  road,  which  was  also  known  as  the 
Albany  Road)  is  now  Nehasane  Lake,  on  Dr.  Webb's  great 
preserve. 

The  original  act  authorizing  this  road  was  passed  June  19, 
1812,  for  "opening  and  making  a  road  between  the  City  of 
Albany  and  the  river  St.  Lawrence."  This  is  how  the  road 
came  to  be  called  the  Albany  Road.  It  really  started  at  Al- 
bany, for  a  primitive  road  as  far  as  Fish  House  already  ex- 
isted. It  reached  the  St.  Lawrence  Turnpike  in  1815,  but  was 
not  completed  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River  till  later. 

This  St.  Lawrence  Turnpike  was  an  early  road  running 
across  St.  Lawrence  County  from  the  Oswegatchie  River, 
through  Russell,  to  Hopkinton.  It  was  used  in  some  of  the 
mihtary  movements  of  1812,  and  acquired  the  title  of  a  mili- 
tary road.  It  may  be  that  our  Adirondack  roads,  by  connect- 
ing with  it,  were  considered  entitled  to  share  its  martial  glory. 
However  this  military  legend  arose,  it  has  certainly  fattened 
on  tradition,  and  the  remaining  traces  of  *'01d  Military  roads, 
built  by  the  soldiers  in  1812,"  are  pointed  out  in  various  sec- 
tions of  the  mountains.  Sometimes,  mere  loops  and  branches 
of  the  main  highways  are  so  designated. 

The  three  roads  under  discussion  were,  of  course,  most 
primitive  affairs.  They  were  little  more  than  what  the  lum- 
bermen call  wood  roads  to-day — trails  along  which  the  trees 
have  been  cut  down,  with  here  and  there  a  little  filling  in  and 


130         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

grading.  They  were  passable  enough  in  winter,  but  impass- 
able in  the  spring,  and  impossible  in  the  summer.  Hough,  in 
his  *' History  of  St.  Lawrence  County,"  speaks  of  the  two 
roads  to  Russell  as  falling  rapidly  into  decay  and  disuse,  and 
being  virtually  abandoned  at  an  early  date.  This  is  borne 
out  by  Dr.  Todd's  book  on  Long  Lake.  He  evidently  saw  no 
signs  of  the  Old  Military  Road,  for  he  speaks  of  the  nearest 
road  stopping  six  miles  short  of  the  settlement.  This  was  a 
new  road  from  Lake  Champlain  to  Carthage,  authorized  by 
the  Legislature  in  1841.  The  only  Old  Military  Road  to  be 
kept  up  and  improved  for  any  considerable  length  of  time  was 
the  North  West  Bay  road. 


CHAPTER  XL 
ADIRONDACK  RAILROADS 

IT  is  somewhat  surprising  to  find  that  several  of  the  earli- 
est schemes  for  building  railroads  in  this  State  contem- 
plated lines  running  into  or  through  the  Adirondacks.  They 
were  usually  allied  with  navigation  projects  that  planned  to 
connect  the  larger  lakes  and  rivers  into  a  continuous  water- 
way through  the  mountains. 

The  first  railroad  in  the  State  was  chartered  in  1826.  The 
first  primitive  train  was  run  from  Albany  to  Schenectady  in 
1831.  By  1845  there  were  only  about  700  miles  of  railway  in 
operation,  and  yet  by  this  time  several  schemes  for  Adiron- 
dack lines  were  on  foot. 

The  earliest  one  traces  back  to  1834  and  the  passage  of 
"An  act  to  incorporate  the  Manheim  and  Salisbury  Rail- 
Road."  In  1837  the  name  of  this  proposed  road  was  changed 
to  "The  Mohawk  and  St.  Lawrence  Railroad  and  Navigation 
Company,"  by  an  act  authorizing  the  construction  of  a  rail- 
way and  the  making  of  a  canal  and  slack-water  navigation 
from  the  Erie  Canal  in  the  town  of  Danube  or  Little  Falls,  in 
the  county  of  Herkimer,  to  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  in  the 
county  of  St.  Lawrence." 

In  1838  a  pamphlet  and  map  were  published,*  showing  the 
proposed  course  of  the  railway,  but  not  of  the  water  route. 
The  road  was  to  start  at  Little  Falls,  run  northeasterly  along 
the  East  Canada  Creek  to  the  west  shore  of  Piseco  Lake,  and 
thence  northerly  to  the  south  end  of  Raquette  Lake.  This 
road  never  got  beyond  the  paper  stage. 

I  have  before  me  another  pamphlet,^  being  the  report  of  a 
survey  in  1838  for  a  railway  from  Ogdensburg  to  Lake  Cham- 
plain.    Its  sole  interest  here  lies  in  the  fact  that  two  routes 

1  Papers  and  Documents  relative  to  the  Mohawk  and  St.  Latorence  R.  R.  and 
Navigation  Co.     J.  Munsell,  Albany.     1838. 

2  Assembly  Document  No.  133,  Janvnry  30,  1839. 

1.31 


132  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

were  suggested  for  the  road,  and  that  the  southern  one,  with 
Port  Kent  as  a  terminus,  would  have  passed  through  the 
northeastern  comer  of  the  woods.  The  other  one  was  to  run 
to  Plattsburg,  without  touching  the  Adirondacks.  The  whole 
project  fell  through  at  the  time.  It  was  revived  in  1845,  how- 
ever, and  the  original  survey  was  used  for  the  Northern  Rail- 
road, which  was  built  between  Ogdensburg  and  Malone. 

In  1846  an  act  was  passed  'Ho  provide  for  the  construction 
of  a  railroad  and  slackwater  navigation  from  or  near  Port 
Kent,  in  Lake  Champlain,  to  Boonville  in  Oneida  County." 

This  was  to  be  another  combination  rail  and  water  route 
through  the  heart  of  the  mountains.  The  railway  was  to 
strike  the  Saranac  River  near  McClenathan  Falls  (now  Frank- 
lin Falls).  Thence  progress  was  to  be  ''by  river,  canal,  and 
lake  navigation"  through  the  Saranac  River  and  Lakes,  the 
Raquette  River,  Long  Lake,  "Crochet  and  Racket"  lakes,' and 
so  on  out  to  Boonville.  The  whole  scheme  was  elaborately 
outlmed  and  advertised,  but  nothing  ever  came  of  it.  This 
was  the  project  so  hopefully  and  alluringly  referred  to  by 
Amos  Dean  in  his  pamphlet  on  the  prospects  of  Long  Lake 
real  estate.^  He  was,  indeed,  one  of  the  commissioners  ap- 
pointed to  promote  the  undertaking,  and  he  naturally  did  all 
he  could  to  further  a  scheme  from  which  he  would  receive  much 
benefit.    But  his  efforts  were  in  vain. 

WHITEHALL   AND   PLATTSBUHG    RAILROAD 

This  was  the  first  road  to  come  near  the  "blue  line"  and  to 
play  an  important  part  in  starting  people  across  it.  It  was  a 
spur  of  only  twenty  miles  from  Plattsburg  to  Point  of  Rocks 
or  Ausable  River  Station.  It  began  operations  in  1868,  and  in 
1874  was  extended  a  few  miles  farther  to  Ausable  Forks,  be- 
yond which  point  it  never  went. 

A  road  from  Plattsburg  to  Whitehall  was  agitated  at  an 
early  date,  but  its  building  became  the  storm-center  of  a  once 
notorious  political  struggle  in  which  the  leading  citizens  of 
Plattsburg  took  a  prominent  part.  The  details  do  not  belong 
here,  but  they  will  be  found  in  Kurd's  "History  of  Clinton 
and  Franklin  Counties,"  Philadelphia,  1880. 

1  See  Chap.  XXXIV,  "Long  Lake." 


ADIRONDACK  RAILROADS  133 

THE   ADIRONDACK    EAILROAD 

This  was  the  second  road  to  come  near  the  "blue  line."  It 
was  intended  to  cross  it  and  penetrate  the  very  heart  of  the 
wilderness,  but  this  dream  was  never  realized.  It  became, 
however,  a  large  feeder  of  the  region  and  an  important  factor 
in  its  development. 

Dr.  Thomas  C.  Durant,  the  builder  and  president  of  the 
road,  helped  it  greatly  by  those  allied  facilities  of  interior 
transportation  which  have  been  more  fully  outlined  in  Chap- 
ter XXXVI.  His  son  Mr.  William  West  Durant,  who  became 
president  and  general  manager  of  the  road  after  his  father's 
death  in  1885,  has  kindly  placed  at  my  disposal  a  number  of 
old  documents,  pamphlets,  and  maps  bearing  on  its  early 
history. 

It  traces  back  to  an  act  of  1848,  * '  incorporating  the  Sacketts 
Harbor  and  Saratoga  Railroad  Company."  Prominent  men 
from  different  parts  of  the  country  were  interested  in  the  in- 
corporation. In  1850  and  1851  extensions  of  time  for  building 
the  road  were  granted,  and  in  1853  a  charter  with  greatly 
increased  rights  and  privileges  was  secured.  The  previous 
year  a  chief  engineer  A.  F.  Edwards  had  been  appointed  and 
instructed  to  make  a  survey.  The  result  was  embodied  in  a 
thick  pamphlet  of  one  hundred  and  ten  pages,  which  was 
printed  in  October,  1853. 

This  report,  besides  exhaustive  statistics,  contains  a  glow- 
ing account  of  the  mountainous  region  the  road  is  intended  to 
traverse.  Professor  Emmons  and  Professor  Benedict  are 
quoted  at  length,  and  even  Dr.  Todd  is  introduced  as  prophet, 
with  his  forecast  of  a  possible  million  of  ''virtuous,  industri- 
ous, and  Christian  population"  for  the  central  Adirondacks. 
The  pamphlet  admits  that  among  the  pioneer  settlers  there  is 
some  disappointment  and  discontent,  but  it  is  attributed  to 
the  very  lack  of  those  transportation  facilities  which  the  new 
railway  will  provide. 

Two  routes  for  it  were  surveyed  and  considered.  One  fol- 
lowed the  valley  of  the  Sacondaga,  passing  south  of  Piseco 
Lake  into  the  valley  of  the  Black  River,  and  so  to  the  shore  of 
Lake  Ontario.     This  was  called  the  southern  route. 


134  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

The  other  was  to  strike  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  at  Jessup's 
Landing,  branch  off  to  the  southern  end  of  Raquette  Lake,  and 
then  follow  the  Beaver  or  Moose  River  to  the  valley  of  the 
Black.  This  was  called  the  northern  route.  It  was  favored 
from  the  first,  and  was  finally  the  one  on  which  a  beginning 
was  made. 

By  the  act  of  1853  the  company  had  secured  an  option  on 
250,000  acres  of  Adirondack  State  lands  at  five  cents  an  acre. 
An  equal  amount  was  to  be  donated  by  private  owners  on  cer- 
tain conditions.  Then  the  usual  trouble  began.  Some  wanted 
the  southern  route  adopted;  others  the  northern.  The  com- 
pany, moreover,  by  an  oversight,  had  worded  its  articles  of 
association  so  as  to  conflict  with  the  terms  of  its  charter. 
The  Legislature  was  appealed  to.  After  considerable  wran- 
gling it  gave  the  desired  relief,  but  opposition  to  the  road  and 
antagonistic  w4re-pulling  had  developed.  The  public  grad- 
ually lost  both  interest  and  confidence  in  the  enterprise. 
After  some  thirty  miles  of  the  right  of  way  had  been  graded, 
the  company  found  itself  face  to  face  with  a  financial  crisis, 
and  further  operations  were  suspended. 

Before  long,  however,  efforts  were  made  to  renew  interest 
in  the  road  and  reestablish  its  credit.  To  this  end  it  was  evi- 
dently deemed  advisable  to  change  its  name  to  the  ''Lake 
Ontario  and  Hudson  River  Railroad  Company."  This  was 
done  in  1857,  by  an  act  securing  to  the  new  company  all  the 
rights  and  privileges  of  the  old. 

Home  capital  was  not  lured  by  the  new  name,  however,  and 
an  appeal  to  English  investors  was  made,  one  of  whom  was 
the  eminent  Thomas  Brassy.  He  and  his  friends  showed  in- 
terest, and  sent  over  two  experts  to  examine  the  property  and 
the  proposition.  This  commission  spent  several  months  in- 
vestigating, and  then  handed  in  a  lengthy  and  highly  favorable 
report.  On  the  strength  of  this  the  Englishmen  opened  nego- 
tiations to  purchase,  but  these  were  interrupted  and  abandoned 
on  account  of  the  breaking  out  of  the  Civil  War. 

Shortly  before  this,  for  some  reason  that  does  not  clearly 
appear,  the  company  had  again  changed  its  name  to  "The 
Adirondac  Estate  and  Railroad  Company,"  by  an  act  of  Feb- 
mary  18, 1860.    But  after  the  -vvithdrawal  of  the  English  capi- 


ADIRONDACK  RAILROADS  135 

talists,  its  plight  was  hopeless.  Its  affairs  were  wound  up  by 
the  courts,  and  the  actual  property  transferred,  through  a  re- 
ceiver, to  the  ownership  of  Hon.  Albert  N.  Cheney  and  his 
associates. 

This  gentleman  offered  the  road  to  some  New  York  capital- 
ists, among  whom  were  Dr.  Thomas  C.  Durant  and  others 
identified  with  the  building  of  the  Union  Pacific.  Dr.  Durant 
became  enthusiastic  over  the  possibilities  in  the  Adirondack 
property,  and  secured  control  of  it.  He  reorganized  it  under 
a  special  act  of  April  27, 1863,  as  the  "Adirondack  Company." 
The  new  charter  was  very  broad  and  conferred  the  privileges 
of  a  land,  railroad,  mining,  and  manufacturing  company  on 
the  new  organization.  Its  lands,  moreover,  up  to  1,000,000 
acres  w^ere  declared  free  from  State  taxes  till  the  year  1883. 
An  amendment  to  the  charter,  passed  in  1885,  gave  the  rail- 
road the  option  of  making  its  terminus  on  Lake  Ontario  or 
the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  latter  was  finally  chosen,  and  I  have  before  me  a  map, 
published  in  1869,  showing  the  proposed  route  of  the  road 
from  Saratoga  through  the  heart  of  the  mountains  to  Ogdens- 
burg.  After  leaving  North  Creek,  it  was  to  pass  just  north  of 
Long  Lake  and  follow  the  valley  of  the  Raquette  River  to  the 
foot  of  Tupper  Lake ;  thence  along  the  Grasse  River  to  Canton 
and  Ogdensburg.  This  was  the  elaborate  plan,  but  the  road 
was  never  built  beyond  the  present  terminus,  North  Creek. 
The  progress  to  that  point  was  as  follows : 


Total: 


Built 

December    1,  1S65 

25  miles 

31,  1868 

12       " 

23,  1869 

12       " 

31,  1870 

11       " 

Saratoga  to  North  Creek, 

60  miles 

Operated 

1868     Saratoga  to  Hadley 

22  miles 

1869            "         "    Thurman 

36       " 

1870           "         "    The  Glen 

44      " 

1871            "         "    North  Creek 

60       " 

The  Adirondack  Company  owned  some  650,000  acres  of 
Adirondack  land,  and  much  of  it— all  of  Township  47  and 


136  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

much  of  Township  50,  Totten  and  Crossfield  Purchase — was 
heavily  wooded  with  the  best  pine  timber.  It  had  also  ac- 
quired, after  lengthy  negotiations,  the  entire  estate  of  the 
Mclntyre  Iron  Company,  including  mines  and  works,  and  the 
value  of  this  acquisition  is  naturally  stressed  in  its  advertising 
literature.^  The  name  of  the  road  was  changed  for  the  last 
time,  in  1883,  to  the  ''Adirondack  Railway  Company."  In 
1889,  Mr.  William  West  Durant,  president  and  owner  of  the 
road,  sold  it  to  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Company.  Its 
lands  were  gradually  disposed  of  to  corporations  and  private 
owners. 

THE    CHATEAUGAY   RAILROAD 

The  first  railroad  to  cross  the  "blue  line"  and  run  into  the 
mountains  was  the  Chateaugay  Railroad  from  Plattsburg  to 
Saranac  Lake,  and  the  first  train  between  these  two  points  was 
run  on  December  5,  1887. 

The  origin  of  this  road  dates  back  to  1878,  when  an  act  was 
passed  ''authorizing  the  construction  and  management  of  a 
railroad  from  Lake  Champlain  to  Dannemora  prison."  The 
building  of  this  line  was  put  into  the  hands  of  the  Superin- 
tendent of  State  Prisons.  It  was  completed  in  1879,  and  will 
be  found  on  maps  of  the  period  as  the  "Dannemora  Rail- 
road." 

A  little  later  Smith  M.  Weed  of  Plattsburg  and  others  who 
owned  valuable  ore  beds  near  the  Chateaugay  Lakes,  wanted 
a  railway  outlet  for  their  product.  They  decided  to  lay  a 
track  from  Lyon  Mountain  to  Dannemora,  and  connect  with 
the  road  already  running  to  that  place.  For  this  purpose  the 
Chateaugay  Railroad  Company  was  organized  in  May,  1879, 
and  a  lease  of  the  Dannemora  Railroad  secured  from  the 
State.  On  December  17,  1879,  the  first  regular  train  ran  over 
the  entire  line,  and  on  December  18th  the  first  shipment  of  ore 
reached  Plattsburg. 

1  One  of  the  prime  objects  of  the  original  Sacketts  Harbor  and  Saratoga  Rail- 
road was  to  connect  with  the  Adirondack  Iron  Works.  In  1854  it  had  surveyed 
and  located  its  line  to  the  Lower  Works,  and  merely  waited  for  funds  in  order  to 
build  it.  The  failure  of  the  railroad  to  make  this  long-promised  connection  was 
undoubtedly  an  important  contributory  cause  in  the  final  abandonment  of  the 
Iron  Works.     See  Chap.  XIV. 


ADIRONDACK  RAILROADS  137 

The  Chateaugay  Railroad  was  gradually  extended  from 
Lyon  Mountain  to  Standish,  then  to  Loon  Lake,  and  finally  to 
Saranac  Lake  in  1887.  The  first  president  of  the  road  was 
Thomas  Dickson,  who  was  at  the  time  president  of  the  Dela- 
ware &  Hudson  Canal  Company.  On  January  1,  1903,  the 
Delaware  &  Hudson  Railroad  bought  the  Chateaugay,  and 
broad-gaged  it. 

In  1893,  the  Saranac  Lake  and  Lake  Placid  Road  was  built, 
and  operated  between  those  two  places — a  distance  of  only  ten 
miles,  for  which  a  charge  of  ten  cents  a  mile  was  made.  This, 
like  the  Chateaugay,  was  a  narrow-gage  road,  but  three  rails 
were  laid,  so  that  broad-gage  cars  arriving  at  Saranac  Lake 
could  be  hauled  to  Lake  Placid.  This  road  was  also  taken 
over  by  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  in  1903,  when  it  acquired  the 
Chateaugay. 

hurd's  road 

The  next  railroad  to  pass  over  the  ''blue  line"  and  pene- 
trate the  mountains  was  built  in  patches  by  a  lumber  operator 
by  the  name  of  John  Hurd.  The  road  was  entirely  in  Frank- 
lin County,  winding  from  north  to  south  down  its  western 
side,  and  crossing  the  **blue  line"  about  ten  miles  below  Santa 
Clara,  at  a  little  place  known  as  ' '  LeBoeuf 's, "  where  there  was 
a  mill  and  a  few  lumber  shanties. 

About  1882  John  Hurd,  Peter  Macfarlane,  and  a  Mr.  Hotch- 
kiss,  bought  60,000  acres  of  land  in  Townhips  10,  11,  14,  and 
17,  Franklin  County,  and  the  mills  at  St.  Regis  Falls.  From 
this  place  they  soon  began  building  a  railway  to  Moira,  seven- 
teen miles  to  the  north.  Here  connections  were  made  with 
the  Northern  Railroad  (now  the  Rutland)  running  from  Og- 
densburg  to  Malone. 

After  this  spur  was  completed  Hurd  bought  his  partners 
out  and  did  his  further  railroad-building  entirely  alone.  He 
secured  a  charter  for  the  "Northern  Adirondack  Extension 
Company,"  and  then  proceeded  to  lay  twenty  miles  of  track 
to  the  south  of  St.  Regis  Falls,  first  to  Santa  Clara  and  then 
to  another  lumber  hamlet  near  Buck  Mountain,  called  Bran- 
don. Both  of  these  diminutive  and  obscure  places  were  most 
unexpectedly  thrust  into  the  lime-light  of  public  attention  at 


138  A  HISTOKY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

a  later  date,  and  the  story  of  their  notoriety  is  told  in  the  next 
chapter. 

The  extension  of  the  road  to  Brandon  was  made  in  1886. 
Then  Hurd  decided  to  carry  it  twenty-two  miles  farther  south 
to  a  point  near  the  shores  of  Tupper  Lake.  This  last  link  was 
completed  in  1889,  making  an  entire  length  of  sixty  miles.  Its 
name  was  changed  to  the  "Northern  and  Adirondack  Rail- 
road," but  it  was  generally  spoken  of  as  ''Kurd's  Road."  It 
did  a  lively  business  but  not  a  profitable  one.  The  owner, 
who  had  many  other  irons  in  the  fire,  all  hastily  and  precari- 
ously financed,  soon  found  himself  in  trouble  and  his  railway 
in  the  hands  of  a  receiver.  The  building  of  Webb's  road  un- 
doubtedly hastened  the  collapse  of  Hurd's.  It  was  sold  to  a 
private  syndicate  in  1895,  and  the  name  was  changed  again 
to  the  ''Northern  New  York  Railroad." 

This  syndicate  gradually  interested  some  big  New  York 
capitalists,  and  they  decided  to  extend  the  road  across  the 
Canadian  line  as  far  as  Ottawa.  This  caused  the  final  chang- 
ing of  the  name  to  the  one  it  now  bears — "The  New  York 
and  Ottawa  Railroad."  A  through  service  over  the  line  was 
established  in  the  autumn  of  1900.  It  would  have  been  com- 
pleted sooner  but  for  the  spectacular  collapse,  in  1898,  of  the 
million-dollar  bridge  the  company  had  just  finished  building 
over  the  St.  Lawrence  at  Cornwall. 

The  last  chapter  in  the  history  of  this  road  took  place  at 
St.  Regis  Falls  on  December  22,  1906,  when  it  passed  under  a 
bondholders'  foreclosure  sale  to  the  New  York  Central,  and 
became  a  part  of  that  great  system. 

"Uncle  John  Hurd,"  as  he  was  popularly  called,  the  builder 
of  a  fantastic  railroad,  the  overnight  creator  of  mushroom 
mills  and  hamlets,  the  reckless  speculator  in  lumber  lands  and 
deals,  was  naturally  a  conspicuous  and  much-talked-of  figure 
in  his  brief  day  of  glory.  He  came  from  Bridgeport,  Conn., 
and  returned  there  to  die  in  comparative  poverty  after  having 
looped  the  loop  of  spectacular  success  as  an  Adirondack 
lumber-king. 

He  was  a  man  of  plunging,  bulldog  enterprise,  with  a  bluff- 
ing, blustering  knack  of  controlling  hired  men  and  getting 
things  done.    He  built  his  railway  by  gradually  extending  it 


ADIRONDACK  RAILROADS  139 

to  nowhere  in  particular  and  then  creating  a  semblance  of 
somewhere.  One  of  these  sudden  somewheres  was  Santa 
Clara,  wliich  he  named  after  his  wife,  and  where  he  made  his 
residence.  Besides  the  inevitable  mill  and  shanties  for  the 
workmen,  he  built  a  community  store,  where  all  of  his  em- 
ployees were  forced  to  trade,  and  where,  it  is  said,  he  man- 
aged to  diminish  by  credit  the  unpaid  wages  they  had  earned. 
He  also  erected  an  assembly  hall  which  was  used  for  many 
incidental  purposes,  and  regularly  as  a  school  and  church. 
Like  many  a  greater  magnate  who  could  be  aggressively 
worldly  on  week-days,  Hurd  was  inclined  to  be  aggressively 
religious  on  Sundays.  He  often  entered  the  pulpit  as  a  lay 
reader,  and  at  one  time  he  ran  a  ' '  Sunday  School  and  Church 
train"  over  part  of  his  road.  He  also  maintained  a  resident 
clergyman  in  his  home  at  Santa  Clara  for  the  benefit  of  the 
settlement.  He  found  for  the  position  a  young  man  whose 
health  had  broken  down  and  who  was  eager  to  come  to  the 
mountains  in  consequence.  That  young  man  was  Walter  H. 
Larom,  now  Archdeacon  Larom  of  Saranac  Lake,  where  for 
many  years  he  was  rector  of  St.  Luke's  Church. 

The  one  large  and  important  place  that  Hurd  started  was 
the  village  of  Tupper  Lake.  When  it  became  the  terminus  of 
his  railway  there  was  notliing  there  but  a  cow  pasture  and 
clearing  belonging  to  old  Bill  McLaughlin,  the  pioneer  set- 
tler. Then  Hurd  built  an  enormous  mill,  and  the  place  began 
to  grow.  It  grew  with  surprising  rapidity,  but  as  a  lumber- 
ing-center only.  Its  structures  were  crude  and  ugly,  and  its 
inhabitants  were  tough  and  lawless.  It  had  all  the  outward 
appearance  and  inner  attributes  of  a  western  frontier  town. 
Then,  on  July  30,  1899,  it  was  almost  completely  wiped  out  by 
fire.  This  proved  really  a  blessing  in  disguise,  for  on  the  site 
of  the  old  village  there  soon  rose  a  far  more  sightly,  more 
cleanly,  more  orderly,  and  more  prosperous  one.  It  is  still, 
however,  purely  a  commercial  and  manufacturing  center — the 
only  one  of  any  size  in  the  Adirondacks.  Such  large  concerns 
as  the  Santa  Clara  Lumber  Co.,  the  A.  Sherman  Lumber  Co., 
the  Norwood  Manufacturing  Co.,  and  the  International  Paper 
Co.  have  mills  there,  and  there  are  others  near  by  at  Pierce- 
field,  at  Childwold,  and  at  Conifer. 


140         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

When  Hurd  named  this  place  Tupper  Lake,  he  showed  true 
Adirondack  aptitude  for  selecting  a  misnomer.  The  village  is 
two  miles  from  the  lake  whose  name  it  bears,  and  lies  on  an 
artificial  body  of  water  called  Raquette  Pond.  The  usual  in- 
ternal complications  have  also  developed.  The  incorporated 
village  of  Tupper  Lake  includes  a  detached  settlement  on  the 
other  side  of  Raquette  Pond.  Tliis  is  called  "Faust"  in  the 
post-office  directory,  and  is  referred  to  as  "Tupper  Lake  Junc- 
tion" in  railroad  folders. 

ADIRONDACK   AND   ST.    LAWRENCE   RAILROAD 

This  was  the  first  and  only  railroad  to  run  through  the 
mountains,  and  was  built  by  Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb,  a  son-in- 
law  of  William  H.  Vanderbilt.  While  buying  lands  for  his 
vast  Nehasane  Park  Preserve,  Dr.  Webb  was  impressed  by  the 
need  and  possibiHties  of  a  railway  running  north  and  south 
through  the  heart  of  the  Adirondacks.  If  it  connected  with 
the  existing  roads  at  Herkimer  in  the  south,  and  Malone  in  the 
north,  it  would  not  only  tap  the  whole  length  of  the  mountains, 
but  would  open  a  new  route  from  New  York  to  Montreal. 

He  laid  his  scheme  before  the  New  York  Central  people, 
and  tried  to  induce  them  to  build  such  a  road.  They  de- 
murred, however,  so  he  decided  to  build  it  himself.  He  ap- 
plied to  the  State  for  a  grant  of  the  right  of  way,  but  this  was 
refused.  Nothing  daunted,  he  began  to  buy  the  right  of  way 
himself.  Work  on  the  road-bed  was  begun  in  1890.  The 
upper  end  of  the  road — from  Malone  to  Lake  Clear,  and  the 
spur  to  Saranac  Lake — was  completed  in  1892.  On  July  1st 
of  that  year  the  first  train  ran  over  this  section,  and  all  traffic 
was  handled  by  this  route  until  the  southern  connection  with 
Herkimer  was  completed  soon  after.  The  following  year, 
1893,  the  New  York  Central  bought  the  road  and  began  to 
operate  it  as  the  Adirondack  Division  of  their  main  line. 
They  later  built  a  spur  from  Fulton  Chain  station  to  Old 
Forge.^ 

Webb's  venture  was  at  first  derided  as  a  rich  man's  fool- 

1  In  1900  a  few  wealthy  men  built  the  Raquette  Lake  Railroad.  It  ran  from 
the  main  line  at  Clearwater,  now  Carter,  to  the  very  shore  of  the  lake,  near 
Brown's  Tract  Inlet.     For  its  size  this  little  road  undoubtedly  had  the  wealthiest 


ADIRONDACK  RAILROADS  141 

ishness.  It  was  thought  that  his  main  object  was  to  have  a 
railway  into  his  own  preserve,  and  it  was  dubbed  ''Webb's 
Golden  Chariot  Route."  The  doctor  had  the  last  laugh,  how- 
ever, when  the  New  York  Central  became  eager  to  buy  the 
road.  It  has  since  proved  a  link  of  ever  increasing  strategic 
value  in  their  system. 

CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE  OF  RAILROADS 

Opened 

WlIITEnALI,    AND    PlATTSBURO 

Plattsburf?  to  Point  of  Rocks,  20  miles 1868 

Extended  to  Ausable  Forks 1874 

First  road  to  come  near  the 
"blue  line"  from  the  north. 

Adirondack  Railroad 
Saratoga  to  North  Creek,  60  miles 1571 

First  road  to  come  near  the 
"blue  line''  from  the  south. 

Chateauoay  Railroad 

Plattsburg  to  Saranac  Lake,  70  miles -     1^87 

Extended  to  Lake  Placid,  1 0  miles  1893 

First  road  to  cross  the 

"blue  line"  and  enter  mountains. 

Hlt?d's  Road   (N.  Y.  and  Ottawa  R.  R) 
Moira  to  Tupper  Lake,  60  miles 1889 

Second  road  to  cross  "blue  line." 
Adirondack  and  St.  La.tvrence  R.  R. 

isnz 

First  and  only  road  through  the  mountains. 

board  of  directors  in  the  country.  Amonjj  them  were  J.  Pierpont  Morgan,  W. 
Soward  Webb,  Collis  P.  Huntington,  Chauncey  JI.  Depew,  William  C.  Whitney, 
Harrj  Payne  Whitney,  and  William  West  PuraJit. 


CHAPTER  XLI 
SANTA  CLARA  AND  BRANDON  IN  THE  LIME-LIGHT 

SANTA  CLARA,  as  has  been  told,  was  a  shantied  creation 
of  Hurd  and  his  railroad.  Besides  his  residence,  he  es- 
tablished his  machine-shops  there,  and  built  two  mills.  For  a 
while,  therefore,  it  was  a  lively,  bustling  little  place,  but  after 
Kurd's  failure  it  relapsed  toward  the  nothingness  from  which 
it  sprang.  The  mills  fell  into  disuse  and  were  dismantled, 
and  in  1915  fire  destroyed  the  machine-shops  and  other  build- 
ings that  were  never  replaced. 

In  1903  the  name  of  the  little  hamlet  was  suddenly  thrust 
into  head-line  notoriety  through  a  sensational  murder  that 
occurred  near  it.  Not  far  away,  and  in  the  Town  of  the  same 
name,  lay  a  private  park  of  7,000  acres,  belonging  to  Orlando 
P.  Dexter.  Near  the  center  of  the  estate  was  a  body  of  water 
called  Dexter  Lake,  and  on  its  shores  was  a  rather  ornate  and 
fantastical  residence  modeled  after  the  Albrecht  Diirer  house 
in  Niiremberg.  Here  the  eccentric  owner  spent  much  of  his 
time. 

He  was  a  bachelor  and  forty  years  of  age  at  the  time  of  his 
death.  He  was  a  graduate  of  Yale  and  a  lawyer  by  profes- 
sion. Having  large  means,  however,  he  retired  from  active 
practice  and  devoted  himself  to  the  intellectual  pursuits  of  his- 
tory, genealogy,  and  the  higher  mathematics.  Absorbed  in 
these  studies,  for  which  he  had  marked  aptitude,  he  became 
more  and  more  of  a  recluse  in  his  habits,  and  showed  an  in- 
creasing moroseness  of  disposition  and  irascibility  of  temper. 
His  relations  with  his  Adirondack  neighbors  developed  a  bar-, 
vest  of  unusually  bitter  animosity.  He  bought  his  lar^ 
estate  by  a  process  of  gradual  acquisition.  When  he  ha< 
secured  all  the  land  he  wanted,  he  fenced  it  in,  ''posted"  it 
placed  guards  upon  it,  and  bid  all  men  keep  off  it.  These  per^ 
fectly  legal  acts  appear  to  have  been  the  signal  for  a  persistenl 
campaign  of  lawlessness  among  his  neighbors.     They  huntc 

142 


SANTA  CLAEA  AND  BRANDON       143 

and  fished,  and  even  cut  wood  on  his  preserve,  with  a  reckless 
defiance  of  consequences  that  could  have  been  prompted  only 
by  malice  and  hatred.  He  sought  such  relief  and  redress  only 
as  the  law  afforded,  but  then  applied  it,  it  is  said,  to  the  last 
limit  of  the  letter  and  in  a  spirit  of  relentless  retaliation. 
Under  such  conditions,  such  a  course,  however  justified,  was 
bound  to  rouse  resentment  to  the  danger  point.  Personal 
violence  was  finally  threatened  in  a  series  of  anonymous  let- 
ters, but  Mr.  Dexter  was  a  fearless  man  and  paid  no  attention 
to  them. 

On  the  afternoon  of  September  19,  1903,  he  started  to  drive, 
as  he  often  did,  to  the  near-by  post-office  at  Santa  Clara  for 
his  mail.  He  drove  alone,  but  was  followed  by  one  of  his 
employees.  He  had  gone  but  a  quarter  of  a  mile  on  the 
lonely,  winding  road  that  led  to  the  little  village,  when  some 
one  fired  a  shot  from  ambush  as  he  passed.  He  fell  from  his 
wagon,  and  was  found  a  few  moments  later  lying  dead  in  the 
road. 

His  aged  father  Henry  Dexter,  the  millionaire  founder  of 
the  American  News  Company,  was  at  once  notified  of  the  mur- 
der. After  the  first  shock,  he  said  he  would  devote  his  life  and 
all  his  wealth,  if  necessary,  to  ferreting  out  his  son's  assassin. 
But  all  his  efforts  and  all  his  wealth  failed  to  unearth  the  cul- 
prit. Besides  detectives,  he  had  trained  bloodhounds  carried 
to  the  spot,  and  offered  rewards  that  would  have  made  a  poor 
man  rich  for  life.  But  they  unloosed  no  ton.gue,  although  it 
was  said  that  even  children  knew  the  murderer's  name.  Be 
that  as  it  may,  it  has  remained  sealed  forever  in  a  strangely 
impregnable  conspiracy  of  silence. 

THE   LAMORA-ROCKEFELLER   FEUD 

Santa  Clara  lies  outside  the  *'blue  line."  Brandon  lies 
within  it,  and  about  twenty  miles  south  of  Santa  Clara. 
When  Hurd  ran  his  road  to  Brandon  in  1886,  there  was  al- 
ready a  settlement  there.  It  had  been  built  up  as  a  lumber 
hamlet  by  Patrick  A.  Ducey,  a  wealthy  lumborman  from 
Michigan^  who  came  to  the  place  about  1881.  He  bought  some 
30,000  of  the  surrounding  acres,  put  up  the  best-equipped  mill 
these  woods  had  ever  seen,  and  began  feeding  it  about  125,000 


144  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

feet  of  lumber  a  day.  He  was  the  first,  it  is  said,  to  fell  trees 
in  the  Adirondacks  by  sawing  instead  of  chopping.  He  was 
altogether  a  hustling,  far-sighted,  shrewd-witted  business 
man — an  Irishman  of  the  best  type,  jovial,  big-heartod,  and 
honest.  Many  of  his  workmen  wished  to  buy  lots  from  him 
and  build  in  Brandon,  but  he  always  advised  them  not  to.  He 
told  them  frankly  that  the  land  in  the  flat  and  barren  village 
would  be  worthless  the  moment  he  finished  lumbering  and 
moved  away.  This  happened  around  1890.  He  carried  on 
extensive  and  successful  operations  in  other  parts  of  the  coun- 
try for  a  while,  and  finally  died  in  Detroit,  Mich.,  in  1903. 

Before  leaving  the  Adirondacks  he  tried  to  induce  Paul 
Smith  to  buy  his  holdings.  He  offered  them  at  $1.50  an  acre, 
and  was  more  than  willing  to  take  a  long-time  note  in  payment. 
It  was  a  rare  opportunity  for  Paul,  for  these  lands  adjoined 
his  own,  but  he  felt  land-poor  at  the  time  and  let  the  chance 
slip,  much  to  his  subsequent  regret. 

A  little  later  Mr.  William  Rockefeller  appeared  upon  the 
scene,  looking  for  a  few  acres  on  which  to  build  a  quiet  home 
in  the  woods.  He  heard  of  the  Pat  Ducey  tract  and  even- 
tually bought  it.  About  three  miles  south  of  Brandon  is  a 
charming  lake  called  Bay  Pond.  Here  Mr.  Rockefeller  de- 
cided to  build.  It  seemed  a  very  beautiful,  quiet,  and  secluded 
spot.  And  it  was.  Only  there  turned  out  to  be  a  hornets '- 
nest  very  near  it — Brandon. 

The  remnant  of  this  little  village  consisted  at  the  time  of 
the  foolish  few  who  had  failed  to  take  Pat  Ducey 's  advice 
about  not  buying  his  land.  Having  bought,  and  being  unable 
to  sell,  they  remained  residents  of  a  necropolis.  There  were 
a  couple  of  churches,  a  small  hotel,  and  about  fifteen  families 
left  in  the  place.  These  people  awoke  one  morning  to  find 
themselves  in  a  preserve  and  a  dilemma.  Rockefeller  had 
bought  the  land  around  and  in  between  their  houses,  and  even 
claimed  control  of  the  road  that  led  to  them.  The  consequence 
was  that  they  could  not  step  off  their  own  land  without  step- 
ping on  his,  and  he  had  made  all  the  surrounding  stumps  elo- 
quent with  his  disapprobation  of  trespassing.  Those  who 
walked  could  not  fail  to  read. 

The  situation  was  both  awkward  and  irritating,  but  Mr. 


X    o 


I 


SANTA  CLARA  AND  BRANDON       145 

Rockefeller  had  no  intention  of  leaving  it  so.  He  planned  to 
pour  oil  upon  the  troubled  waters.  He  offered  to  buy  up 
Brandon — vicariously,  of  course.  His  agents  made  offers 
that  were  unquestionably  liberal.  Most  were  accepted  with 
alacrity,  but  some  householders  bickered  and  delayed,  and  a 
few  refused  to  sell  at  all.  This  minority  took  the  pose  of  dis- 
daining tainted  money.  The  owners  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church  were  among  this  number.  Rather  than  sell  to  Mr. 
Rockefeller,  they  pulled  down  their  building,  shipped  it  to 
Tupper  Lake,  and  re-erected  it  there — which  amounted  to 
doing  at  their  owni  expense  what  Mr.  Rockefeller  was  willing 
to  do  at  his.     All  he  wanted  was  to  get  rid  of  the  church. 

A  crisis  in  the  affairs  of  any  community  usually  develops 
an  unguessed  leader.  Brandon  was  no  exception  to  the  rule. 
What  may  be  called  the  anti-park  faction  crystallized  around 
the  dictatorship  of  one  Oliver  Lamora.  He  was  an  old 
French-Canadian,  poor  and  ignorant,  but  stubborn  and  fear- 
less. He  refused  to  sell  at  any  but  his  own  exorbitant  figure, 
and  he  announced  his  intention  of  hunting  and  fishing  where 
he  had  always  hunted  and  fished.  He  was  as  good  as  his 
word,  moreover.  He  persisted  in  trespassing,  and  was  as 
persistently  arrested  and  sued.  He  showed  such  obstinacy 
that  every  possible  form  of  legal  procedure  and  every  petty 
annoyance  of  the  law  was  used  in  retaliation.  Action  was 
brought  in  distant  parts  of  the  county,  and  the  old  man  was 
put  to  the  trouble  and  expense  of  long  journeys.  But  his 
neighbors  raised  money  to  help  him  out,  and  a  firm  of  lawyers 
offered  to  defend  him  free  of  charge.  The  lower  courts  non- 
suited his  case,  but  it  was  finally  won  on  appeal,  and  Mr. 
Rockefeller  was  awarded  eighteen  cents  in  damages  and  a 
temporary  fishing-injunction  against  Lamora. 

Meanwhile  another  suit  had  boon  brought,  and  was  pending, 
under  the  Private  Park  Law.  Here  the  final  decision  was  of 
far  greater  importance.  Lamora 's  trespassing  was  defended 
on  the  plea  that  he  had  a  right  to  fish  in  any  waters  stocked 
by  the  State.  This  contention  was  overruled  and  the  princi- 
ple established  that  preserve  owners  enjoyed  an  absolute  right 
of  exclusion  over  the  waters  as  well  as  the  lands  in  their 
domains.     The  decision  was  hailed  with  delight  by  the  big 


146  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

landowners,  and  with  disgust  by  the  little  ones,  and  temporar- 
ily it  only  served  to  embitter  the  class  feeling  between  the  two. 

Of  course  the  trouble  and  litigation  between  a  prominently 
rich  man  and  an  obscurely  poor  one  was  quickly  noised  abroad 
and  exploited  by  the  press.  The  names  of  Brandon  and  La- 
mora  became  as  familiar  to  the  reading  public  as  Rockefeller's 
own.  The  leading  papers  and  the  social-justice  magazines 
sent  special  correspondents  to  Brandon,  and  long,  illustrated 
articles  were  the  result.  Lamora  was  interviewed  and  photo- 
graphed, and  became  the  newspaper  idol  of  the  multitude. 
His  pictures  alone  awakened  sympathy.  He  was  a  tall  and 
erect  old  fellow,  with  snow-white  hair  and  beard,  and  was 
usually  pictured  standing  on  the  steps  of  his  hjimble  home, 
his  head  thrown  back,  gazing  defiantly  over  the  marshes  of 
Brandon  toward  the  wooded  seat  of  oppression  at  Bay  Pond. 
In  his  hand  he  held  a  fishing-rod,  which  smybolized  for  many 
the  struggle  of  righteous  poverty  against  unrighteous  wealth. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  of  course,  it  merely  symbolized  foolish 
stubbornness  and  reckless  poaching. 

The  papers  on  the  whole  tried  to  present  the  facts  im- 
partially, but  the  pubUc  soon  forgot  these  and  the  causes  of 
the  quarrel  in  the  protracted  contest,  that  ensued.  The  man 
who  was  right  lost  much  public  sympathy  merely  because  he 
was  rich;  and  the  man  who  was  wrong  gained  much  public 
sympathy  merely  because  he  was  poor.  Locally,  of  course, 
the  feeling  against  Mr.  Rockefeller  was  bitter  and  kept  grow- 
ing more  and  more  intense. 

Lamora  was  arrested  for  the  first  time  in  1902.  In  1903 
the  Dexter  murder  occurred  and  heartened  the  malcontents  in 
Brandon  to  throw  off  the  yoke  of  oppression  in  the  same  law- 
less manner  as  Santa  Clara  had  done.  Mr.  Rockefeller  be- 
gan to  receive  anonymous  letters  threatening  his  life.  It  is 
not  believed  that  Lamora  had  any  hand  in  these,  nor  was  he 
ever  accused  of  menacing  his  arch-enemy  with  personal  viol- 
ence. But,  Uke  every  agitator,  he  had  over-zealous  friends. 
There  is  little  doubt  that  Mr.  Rockefeller's  life  would  have 
been  attempted  at  this  time  had  he  exposed  himself  as  care- 
lessly as  Mr.  Dexter  did.  But  he  surrounded  himself  ^4th 
every  precaution  of  safety.     He  came  and  went  under  an  es- 


SANTA  CLAKA  AND  BRANDON      147 

cort  of  detectives,  and  his  home  at  Bay  Pond  was  patroled  day 
and  night  by  a  small  regiment  of  armed  guards.  It  is  said  that 
some  of  them  sat  in  tree-top  platforms  watching  for  the  ap- 
proach of  any  suspicious  persons.  The  place  was  actually  in 
a  state  of  siege,  and  the  inmates  were  prisoners  of  fear, 
scarcely  daring  to  step  out  of  doors  or  even  sit  by  a  window. 
"The  Reign  of  Terror"  the  newspapers  called  it.  And  yet 
some  people  felt  sorry  for  Lamora  I 

The  prison  house-party  at  Brandon  broke  up  that  autumn 
earlier  than  planned.  The  winter  came,  and  passions  cooled. 
Then  Mr.  Rockefeller  deliberately  stirred  them  up  again,  and 
did  something  that  gave  the  Brandonites  just  cause  of  com- 
plaint and  resentment  against  him.  A  post-office  had  been 
established  at  Brandon  in  1887,  and  the  mail  for  Bay  Pond 
was  delivered  there.  This  was  considered  an  inconvenience  of 
distance  which  might  be  more  fittingly  imposed  on  the  un- 
friendly natives.  Mr.  Rockefeller,  therefore,  asked  his 
friend,  Henry  C.  Pajnie,  then  Postmaster-General,  to  have  the 
post-office  transferred  to  Bay  Pond.  This  was  done  with 
obsequious  alacrity.  As  a  result  those  who  wanted  their  mail 
— and  many  of  them  lived  far  beyond  Brandon — were  subject 
to  a  lengthened  tramp  along  a  road  bristling  with  trespass 
signs.  This  was  perhaps  as  galling  as  anything  that  had  hap- 
pened, but  the  sufferers  sought  redress  in  the  most  approved 
manner.  They  circulated  a  petition  asking  for  the  restora- 
tion of  their  post-office  to  its  former  site.  Seventy-four  in- 
terested persons  signed  this  petition,  and  it  was  sent  to  Wash- 
ington.    There  it  was  promptly  and  obligingly  pigeonholed. 

A  little  later  "Collier's  Weekly"  got  wind  of  the  matter 
and  started  an  investigation.  They  sent  their  representa- 
tive first  to  Brandon  and  then  to  Washington.  He  laid  the 
case  of  the  strayed  post-office  and  lost  petition  before  the 
Fourth  Assistant  Postmaster,  who  should  have  been  consulted 
about  any  change  in  the  first  plac^',  but  who  knew  nothing 
of  it.  He  made  a  hunt  for  the  side-tracked  petition,  found  it, 
investigated,  and  ordered  the  post-office  at  Bay  Pond  to  be 
restored  to  its  original  and  legitimate  location. 

This  was  a  well-deserved  victory  for  the  Brandonites,  but  it 
was  their  only  lasting  one.     The  end  of  their  long  adventure  in 


148  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

obstinacy  was  defeat,  and  many  accepted  it  before  the  end. 
As  Lamora's  cases  dragged  slowly  on,  the  first  enthusiasm 
of  his  friends  began  to  cool  to  a  cash  temperature.  They 
gradually  accepted  what  was  offered  for  their  places,  and 
moved  away,  and  as  they  went  their  houses  were  torn  down. 
Finally  Lamora's  stood  almost  alone.  In  it  the  old  man  con- 
tinued to  live,  broken  in  health  but  not  in  spirit,  a  prisoner 
of  injunctions,  trespass  signs,  and  gamekeepers.  Iji  it  he 
finally  died.  His  foolishness  did  not  descend  to  his  son,  how- 
ever. The  latter  gladly  accepted  $1,000  for  the  house  of  con- 
tention, and  in  1915  it  was  the  last,  lone  structure  on  the  battle- 
field of  Brandon. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  form  of  enmity  that  re- 
sulted in  the  Santa  Clara  murder  and  in  threats  of  similar 
lawlessness  at  Brandon,  was  peculiar  to  those  localities.  It 
simply  developed  there  into  acuter  virulence  and  was  given 
wider  publicity.  It  existed  more  or  less  wherever  similar  con- 
ditions existed,  and  it  began  with  the  establishment  of  the 
first  private  park. 

It  cannot  be  justified,  of  course,  but  it  can  be  explained,  and 
to  some  extent,  excused.  The  early  Adirondacker  lived  in  a 
wilderness,  and  was  bred  to  the  roving  freedom  of  his  en- 
vironment. To  be  suddenly  and  imperatively  confronted  by 
vast  property  restrictions  that  were  not  only  new  to  him  but 
seemed  both  senseless  and  selfish,  was  to  arouse  that  feeling  of 
injustice  to  which  the  primitive  reasoner  is  always  prone. 
Some  natives  accepted  the  new  order  of  things  with  grumbling 
resignation;  others  with  guerrilla  opposition.  Some  park- 
builders,  moreover,  tempered  the  assertion  of  their  rights 
with  tact  and  diplomacy;  others  asserted  them  without  any 
attempt  at  conciliation.  Each,  it  is  safe  to  say,  reaped  a 
harvest  of  personal  good  will  or  ill  feeling  which,  in  the 
main,  bore  distinct  traces  of  what  he  had  sowed. 

The  local  antagonism  to  private  parks  is  dying  out  with 
the  generation  to  whom  they  were  a  restrictive  innovation. 
The  present  generation  finds  them  an  accomplished  fact,  and 
takes  them  as  much  for  granted  as  the  automobile.  Their 
economic  value  is  also  being  recognized.  They  have  brought 
profitable  employment  to  many  a  man's  door,  and  they  have 


SANTA  CLARA  AND  BRANDON      149 

been  a  potent  factor  in  preserving  the  forests  and  the  game. 
The  one  lingering  criticism  against  them  is  that  they  absorb 
large  areas  of  what  was  intended  for  a  public  playground. 
This  cannot  be  denied;  but  after  all  the  public  still  has  left 
some  two  million  acres  where  it  may  roam  and  camp  at  will 
and  hunt  and  fish  in  season. 


CHAPTER  XLII 
LUMBERING 

THERE  were  a  few  distinctive  features  of  Adirondack 
lumbering,  and  the  object  of  this  chapter  is  to  point 
them  out  and  offer  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  conditions  they 
created. 

Those  wishing  for  statistics  and  general  information  upon 
every  phase  of  lumbering  operations  vAW  find  them  in  the 
Annual  Report  for  1900,  of  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Com- 
mission. This  contains  an  article  by  the  former  Superin- 
tendent of  Forests  William  F.  Fox,  entitled:  "History  of 
the  Lumber  Industry  in  the  State  of  New  York. "  It  is  a  very 
comprehensive  and  therefore  lengthy  article,  covering  seventy 
quarto  pages,  but  it  is  as  readable  as  it  is  instructive.  It 
tells  everytliing  about  a  tree,  from  its  home  in  the  forest  to  its 
distant  destiny  in  a  sawmill.  There  are  a  number  of  excellent 
and  enlightening  pictures,  and  a  very  interesting  map  of  early 
settlements  and  sawmills;  for  the  two  went  hand  in  hand  in 
pioneer  days.  The  text,  the  illustrations,  and  the  map  cover 
the  entire  State,  and  the  Adirondacks  are  mentioned  only  in- 
cidentally. But  the  generalizations  of  the  article  are  ap- 
plicable to  any  region. 

Adirondack  trees  were  always  cut  in  the  winter.  The  men 
went  into  the  woods  and  built  rough  log  houses,  known  as 
"lumber-camps,"  near  the  scene  of  their  activities.  The 
ground  chosen  generally  sloped  to  some  lake  or  river.  First 
of  all  "skidways"  were  made,  that  is,  open  slides  from  the 
high  points  of  the  tract  to  the  water's  edge.  Down  these  the 
logs  were  "skidded."  At  the  bottom  they  were  piled  up, 
measured,  and  marked.  Each  firm  had  its  cabalistic  sign 
which,  when  indented  with  a  marking-hammer  on  the  end  of 
a  log,  became  a  legalized  trade-mark. 

When  spring  came  and  the  ice  broke  up,  the  logs  were 
thro'svn  into  the  water,  and  started  on  the  journey  to  some 
distant  mill.    The  chopper's  task  was  done,  and  the  log- 

150 


LUMBEEING  151 

driver's  began.  The  latter  calling  was  one  of  great  hard- 
ship and  danger.  It  meant  constant  exposure,  not  only  to 
wind  and  weather,  but  to  ice-cold  water.  It  offered  great  op- 
portunities for  skill  and  daring,  and  many  of  its  devotees,  of 
course,  became  famous  for  both.  Virtually  all  of  them  could 
stand  upright  on  a  floating  log,  balancing  themselves  with 
their  long  pike-poles.  Some  of  them  could  dance  on  one, 
making  it  revolve  with  their  feet.  A  few — the  very  top- 
notchers — have  been  known  to  turn  a  somersault  on  a  very 
broad  log. 

The  French  Canadians  as  a  rule  made  the  best  log-drivers 
and  became  the  most  cunning  at  the  tricks  of  their  trade. 
They  seemed  naturally  endowed  with  the  agility,  recklessness, 
and  immunity  to  exposure  that  must  combine  to  make  the 
expert.  They  have  always  predominated  as  a  race  in  the 
lumbering  operations  in  these  woods. 

There  were  two  distinct  phases  of  Adirondack  log-driving 
— the  passage  of  lakes  as  well  as  rivers.  And  the  lakes,  be- 
cause they  have  no  current,  were  the  more  difficult  proposi- 
tion. The  logs  were  either  rafted  together  or  enclosed  loosely 
in  connected  encircling  logs  called  a  **boom.''  This  mass  was 
then  '^warped"  forward  by  means  of  an  anchor,  a  long  heavy 
cable,  and  an  upright  windlass,  placed  on  a  platform  at  the 
front  of  the  raft  or  boom.  Progress  by  this  method  was 
called  ^'kedging."  It  was  at  best  very  slow  and  arduous, 
and  depended  largely  on  favorable  winds  or  no  winds  at 
all.  To  secure  the  latter  condition  the  night  was  frequently 
chosen  for  kedging.  Even  so,  a  strong  adverse  wind  the  next 
day  might  undo  a  whole  night's  work  and  drive  the  boom 
back  to  its  starting  point. 

This  made  a  lake  more  dreaded  than  a  river,  although  the 
latter  was  not  all  plain  sailing.  The  logs  had  to  be  kept  from 
lagging  on  the  banks,  and  where  there  were  rapids  with 
projecting  rocks,  if  one  or  two  logs  got  caught,  a  thousand 
would  quickly  pile  up  behind  them,  and  a  blockade,  known  as 
a  '* log-jam,"  result.  To  loosen  a  jam  of  any  size  was  the 
most  difficult  and  dangerous  work  log-drivers  had  to  per- 
form. And  when  their  labor  was  done  they  had  loosened 
the  avalanche. 


152  A  HISTOKY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

Volunteers  were  always  called  for  the  work  of  breaking  a 
jam,  for  the  hazard  was  usually  one  of  life  and  death — the 
loosening  of  some  central  key  log  that  held  back  an  im- 
pounded mass  of  hundreds,  perhaps  thousands.  But  some 
one  was  always  ready  to  lose  his  life  or  gain  the  applause 
of  his  comrades  and  boss.  Success  brought  no  other  reward 
than  fame. 

Log-driving  and  marking  may  be  said  to  have  originated 
in  the  Adirondacks.  The  rafting  of  logs  and  floating  them 
down  broad  rivers  was  an  ancient  custom,  but  the  idea  of 
sending  detached  logs  down  narrow,  rock-riven  streams,  was 
first  tried  in  1813  on  the  Schroon  River  branch  of  the  Upper 
Hudson.  It  originated  with  Norman  and  Alanson  Fox,  who 
were  lumbering  the  Brant  Lake  Tract,  which  is  west  of 
Schroon  Lake  and  partly  within  the  **blue  line."  As  a  neces- 
sary corollary  log-driving  sprang  into  existence  at  the  same 
time.  No  sooner  had  this  new  method  been  successfully  tried 
than  it  came  into  general  vogue.  Above  all  it  made  possible 
and  lucrative  the  later  lumbering  of  the  interior  sections  of  the 
Adirondacks. 

The  use  of  rivers  for  log-driving  caused  damage  and  an- 
noyance to  shore-owners,  and  led  to  early  legislation  declaring 
certain  rivers  *' public  highways,"  and  imposing  certain  re- 
strictions, never  very  burdensome,  on  the  lumbermen  who 
used  them.  The  first  river  in  the  State  to  be  declared  a  high- 
way was  the  Salmon  River,  below  Malone,  in  1806;  and  the 
Raquette  River,  from  its  mouth  to  the  first  falls,  in  1810. 
These  first  acts  licensed  boats  and  rafts  only,  but  were  gradu- 
ally amended  so  as  to  cover  the  newer  form  of  log-driving. 

It  was  not  till  1846,  however,  that  the  Raquette  and  Saranac 
rivers  were  declared  public  highways  throughout  their  entire 
length.  The  date  may  be  taken  to  mark  the  beginning  of  lum- 
bering on  a  big  scale  in  the  interior  of  the  mountains. 

A  peculiarity  of  Adirondack  lumbering  is  the  fact  that 
logs  were  always  cut  thirteen  feet  long,  although  the  reason 
for  the  choice  of  this  odd  length  remains  a  mystery.  Else- 
where logs  have  always  been  cut  into  lengths  of  sixteen  feet, 
or  some  other  even  number. 

Another  local  divergence  from  general  methods  was  the 


LUMBERING  153 

buying  and  selling  of  logs  by  count  instead  of  by  computed 
contents.  The  standard  of  count  in  the  Adirondacks  was  a 
log  thirteen  feet  long  and  nineteen  inches  ^  in  diameter  at 
the  top.  This  was  the  unit  of  measurement,  and  was  called  a 
** standard"  or  *' market."  A  lumberman  would  speak  of 
letting  a  job  for  ** fifty  thousand  markets."  As  five  markets 
were  considered  equal  to  one  thousand  feet,  the  job  would  be 
for  ten  million  feet  of  lumber.  This  manner  of  selling  logs 
by  count,  using  some  fixed  size  as  a  standard  unit,  was  orig- 
inated by  Norman  Fox  of  Warren  County,  who,  with  his 
brother  had  inaugurated  the  driving  of  detached  logs.  Out- 
side of  the  Adirondack  region  logs  were  sold  according  to  the 
log  rule  of  either  Doyle  or  Scribner.  These  two  men  com- 
puted the  contents  of  a  log  in  board  measure.  Their  tables 
varied  in  method  and  result,  but  one  or  the  other  was  in 
general  use. 

Having  outlined  the  few  distinctive  features  of  Adiron- 
dack lumbering,  we  turn  to  a  survey  of  its  activities.  They 
began  on  the  borderland  in  1813,  but  they  did  not  penetrate 
to  the  heart  of  the  wilderness  till  much  later — about  1850. 
The  march  of  the  lumbermen  was  like  that  of  an  invading 
army — they  attacked  and  destroyed  the  outposts  first,  and 
only  gradually  slashed  their  way  to  the  inner  citadel.  They 
did  damage,  because  they  lumbered  carelessly,  with  no  con- 
cern for  the  future.  Their  worst  sin  was  the  fire  menace 
that  they  left  behind,  and  which  caused  incalculable  destruc- 
tion. Their  damage  to  the  superficial  appearance  of  the 
woods,  however,  was  negligible.  Only  the  largest  conifers 
were  felled  in  the  early  days.  All  other  trees  were  left  stand- 
ing. As  a  consequence,  the  spring  foliage  would  often  com- 
pletely camouflage  the  traces  of  a  winter's  cut.  Attention 
has  been  called  to  this  point  in  the  chapter  on  Adirondack 
Murray,  who,  because  he  saw  no  obvious  trail  of  the  lumber- 
man's ax,  was  led  into  a  gross  misstatement  concerning  it. 

This  chapter  is  concerning  itself  solely  with  the  physical 
aspects  of  lumbering.  The  moral  side  belongs  more  essen- 
tially to  the  following  chapter,  and  there  the  destructive  fires 

1  On  the  Saranac  River  a  22-inch  diameter  was  used  and  called  the  "Saranac 
Standard." 


154  A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

for  which  the  lumbermen  had  long  been  strewing  the  tinder, 
and  the  story  of  their  actual  stealings  and  attempted  grabs  will 
be  duly  recorded.  Their  sins  were  many,  but  one  thing  often 
laid  at  their  door  they  did  not  do,  as  Mr.  Fox  very  properly 
points  out  in  his  article.  They  did  not  build  the  dams  that 
killed  so  much  standing  timber  along  the  rivers.  They  ulti- 
mately built  a  great  number  of  '* splash"  or  ''flooding"  dams 
to  help  carry  their  logs  over  narrow  rocky  places,  but  the 
gates  w^ere  soon  reopened  and  the  flood  subsided.  As  Mr. 
Fox  says: 

There  was  no  backflow  during  the  period  of  vegetation ;  and  the  tem- 
porary flooding  of  the  roots  of  trees  does  not  kill  the  timber.  Trees 
are  killed  by  water  only  where  it  is  allowed  to  cover  the  ground  for 
two  or  more  successive  summers.  ...  In  nearly  every  instance  the 
dead  timber  in  the  flowed  lands  of  the  Adirondacks  is  the  result  of 
some  dam  or  reservoir  which  was  built  in  the  interest  of  State  canals, 
local  steamboat  lines,  or  manufactories  on  the  lower  waters.  The  lum- 
bermen had  little  or  nothing  to  do  with  them. 

Every  lake  or  stream  of  any  size  in  the  Adirondacks  has 
probably  played  some  part  in  the  story  of  lumbering,  but  the 
big  operations  were  quite  naturally  around  the  longest  rivers 
— the  Hudson,  the  Raquette,  and  the  Saranac. 

The  first  distinctive  Adirondack  lumbering  began  along  the 
Upper  Hudson  and  its  tributaries  in  1813.  For  seventy-five 
years  thereafter  the  forests  around  the  eastern  "blue  line" 
were  gradually  transferred  to  the  vampire  sawmills  at  Glens 
Falls,  Sandy  Hill,  and  Fort  Edwards. 

In  1810  lumbering  began  on  the  lower  Raquette,  but  did  not 
extend  back  into  the  mountains  till  about  1850.  A  law  re- 
quiring all  log  marks  in  use  on  the  Raquette  River  to  be  re- 
corded was  passed  in  1851.  Between  that  time  and  1900 
there  was  a  total  of  one  hundred  and  two  different  marks  reg- 
istered. This  w411  give  some  idea  of  what  was  happening  to 
the  People's  Park  for  forty  years.  The  interior  operations 
along  the  Raquette  gradually  centered  around  the  village  of 
Tupper  Lake  and  Piercefield  Falls,  where  large  mills  were 
built  that  are  still  active  to-day.  Tupper  Lake  has  grown  to 
be  a  commercial  village  of  considerable  size  and  importance. 


LUMBERING  155 

and  is  the  only  incorporated  one  in  the  Adirondacks  depend- 
ing for  its  support  solely  on  lumbering  and  manufacturing 
interests. 

Tne  other  great  highway  for  the  lumbermen  was  the  Saranac 
Valley,  from  its  source  in  the  Saranac  Lakes  to  its  mouth  at 
Plattsburg.  Here  again  the  penetration  to  the  heart  of  the 
mountains  was  very  gradual.  The  first  little  English  sawmill 
was  built  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  River  by  Jacob  Ferris 
in  1787.  It  was  later  bought  by  the  Platts,  after  whom  Platts- 
burg was  named.  It  was  several  years  later  before  lumbering 
operations  began  to  move  up  the  river,  and  not  till  sixty  years 
later  that  they  reached  its  head. 

It  was  not  till  1846  that  the  river  was  declared  a  public 
highway.  In  1847  Orson  Richards,  a  lumberman,  purchased 
Township  24,  which  surrounds  Lower  Saranac  Lake.  Mr. 
Almon  Thomas,  who  later  became  a  very  well-known  and  suc- 
cessful operator,  had  charge  of  the  first  drive  from  this  lake 
to  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It  consisted  of  fifty  thousand 
''markets,"  or  ten  million  feet  of  lumber.  This  may  be  said 
to  have  opened  the  era  of  big  lumbering  in  the  heart  of  the 
Adirondacks,  and  it  continued  for  forty  years. 

A  little  later  a  big  Boston  concern  bought  Township  20, 
which  encircles  the  northern  half  of  Upper  Saranac  Lake. 
At  the  head  of  the  lake,  where  Saranac  Inn  now  stands,  they 
built  a  large  mill  and  established  an  extensive  lumbering- 
headquarters.  This  was  known  everywhere  as  the  Maine  Mill, 
and  the  owners  called  themselves  the  Maine  Company. 

In  1864  Township  21  was  also  purchased  for  lumbering- 
purposes,  so  that  the  entire  region  of  the  Saranac  Lakes  was 
for  a  time  at  the  mercy  of  the  woodman's  ax. 

No  attempt  vAW  be  made  to  record  the  names  of  the  hun- 
dred and  more  concerns  that  did  business  along  the  Raquette 
River.  But  few  survive  to-day,  and  the  best  known  of  these 
are  probably  the  Sherman  Lumber  Company  and  the  Santa 
Clara  Lumber  Company. 

Fewer  firms  operated  along  the  Saranac  Valley  and  the 
best  known  were:  The  Maine  Company,  H.  &  0.  A.  Tefft, 
J.  H.  &  E.  C.  Baker,  Thomas  &  Hammond,  Loren  Ellis,  and 
Christopher  F.  Norton. 


156  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

The  latter  was  called  the  King  of  Adirondack  lumbermen, 
and  he  justified  the  title.  He  reigned  supreme  between  1860 
and  1880.  At  one  time  he  owned  or  controlled  every  impor- 
tant mill  along  the  Saranac  River,  and  dominated  the  lumber 
industry  of  the  entire  valley.  His  rise  was  meteoric,  and  so 
was  his  decline. 

He  was  born  in  Fredonia,  N.  Y.,  in  1821.  He  went  into  the 
lumber  business  in  Erie,  Pa.  About  1850  he  moved  to  Platts- 
burg,  and  began  the  operations  that  were  to  make  him  famous 
— and  then  ruin  him.    He  died  a  poor  man  in  1890. 

He  was  a  man  of  commanding  physique  and  appearance,  of 
great  executive  ability  and  tireless  energy.  He  is  said  to 
have  had  a  marvelous  memory  for  details  and  a  wonderful 
gift  for  handling  men.  He  was  all  in  all  a  big  man,  but  got 
entangled  in  too  vast  a  dream.  He  was  noticeable  among  his 
confreres  for  the  neatness  of  his  clothes  and  the  care  of  his 
person.  As  one  who  knew  him  has  said :  he  was  always  as  well 
dressed  as  his  lumber.  Both  stood  very  high  in  popular  es- 
teem. 

This  chapter  has  been  written  in  the  past  tense  because 
the  tilings  of  which  it  treats  are  either  passed  or  rapidly 
passing.  The  log  drive  has  almost  entirely  disappeared  from 
most  streams,  and  evidences  of  the  old  lumbering  linger  now 
only  around  such  a  place  as  Tupper  Lake.  The  available 
areas  have  been  enormously  lessened  by  exhaustion  and  State 
control,  and  in  what  is  left  new  methods  have  replaced  the 
old. 

Log  railways,  logging  cars,  and  steam  log-loaders,  have 
gradually  taken  the  place  of  water  transportation.  The  rail- 
way can  be  worked  every  month  in  the  year,  and  so  brings  a 
steady  and  constant  supply  to  the  mill,  which,  in  consequence, 
never  need  be  idle.  The  streams,  on  the  other  hand,  could  be 
worked  only  in  the  spring,  and  brought  their  supply  all  at 
once,  or,  in  case  of  a  bad  log-jam,  not  till  after  a  long  delay. 

Log  railways  are  temporary  structures  built  from  the  cen- 
ter of  some  lumbering-tract  to  some  point  of  contact  with  a 
permanent  trunk-line.  The  result  is  that  whereas  the  traveler 
by  water  formerly  met  all  the  evidences  of  lumbering,  the 
traveler  by  rail  is  more  likely  to  see  them  to-day. 


LUMBERING  I57 

But  if  the  new  methods  and  improved  appliances  for  hand- 
ling logs  have  brought  advantages  to  the  lumberman,  they 
have  brought  decided  disadvantages  to  the  forest.  In  the 
old  days  the  hardwoods— birch,  maple,  beech,  ash,  and  cherry 
—were  not  cut,  because  they  were  too  heavy  to  float.  Only  the 
conifers  were  taken — spruce,  pine  and  hemlock.  The  log 
railway  has  made  the  hardwoods  available,  however,  so  that 
what  was  once  a  mere  thinning  process  threatens  to  become 
one  of  complete  denudation. 

Another  great  detriment  to  the  forests  has  been  the  com- 
paratively recent  but  very  rapid  growth  of  the  pulp-wood  in- 
dustry. Ground  pulp,  by  a  primitive  method,  was  first  made 
in  Stockbridge,  Mass.,  in  1867.  Soon  after,  chemical  mills 
were  established  which  reduced  the  fiber  by  the  action  of  acids 
under  pressure.  By  1900  there  were  over  one  hundred  such 
mills  in  New  York  State  alone. 

The  effect  on  lumbering  soon  became  noticeable.  With  the 
sawmill  in  view  only  the  full-grow^n  trees  were  cut,  but  Avith 
the  pulp-mill  in  view,  large  and  small,  young  and  old  went 
down  before  the  ax. 

At  first  only  poplar  were  taken,  which,  being  good  for  noth- 
ing else,  gave  no  cause  for  alarm.  But  it  Avas  soon  discovered 
that  excellent  fiber  could  be  made  from  spruce,  and  later  from 
hemlock,  pine,  and  balsam.  Spruce  to-day  is  considered  so 
much  more  valuable  for  pulp-wood  than  for  building  purposes 
that  it  is  rapidly  disappearing  from  the  lumber  market. 

Pulp-wood  is  cut  into  four-foot  lengths,  and,  consisting 
largely  of  slender  sticks,  is  easily  carried  by  water.  Where 
there  is  a  long  dry  haul  the  pulp-men,  instead  of  using  a  log 
railway,  often  build  water  slides.  These  are  long  wooden 
troughs  into  which  a  stream  of  water  is  turned,  and  on  wiiich 
the  pulp-wood  is  floated  to  its  destination.  The  Rogers  Pulp 
Co.,  of  Ausable  Forks,  had  such  a  slide  that  was  eight  miles 
long.  It  carried  their  pulp  stock  to  the  Ausable  River,  which 
in  turn  carried  it  to  the  mills. 

The  old  lumbering — of  the  conifers  alone — had  a  certain 
romantic  grandeur  about  it.  It  held  danger  and  daring,  hard- 
ship and  heroism.  It  took  big  men  to  handle  the  big  trees. 
The  drive  was  a  matter  of  brains  as  well  as  brawn.    But  the 


158  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

new  lumbering,  the  slashing  of  everything  in  sight  for  pulp- 
wood,  makes  no  appeal  to  the  imagination.  It  seems  like 
the  killing  of  women  and  children — a  mere  ruthless,  reckless 
warfare  on  the  forests. 


i 


CHAPTER  XLIII 
THE  ADIRONDACK  LEAGUE  CLUB 

ALTHOUGH  this  is  the  largest  proprietary  sporting-club 
in  the  Adirondacks,  if  not  in  the  world,  occasion  to 
mention  it  has  not  arisen  in  the  sequence  of  events  here  re- 
corded. This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  it  lies  in  an  extreme  south- 
western comer  of  the  woods,  and  comprises  a  region  so  wild 
and  sparsely  settled  that  it  lacked  the  sinews  of  history  until 
the  club  itself  provided  them. 

The  Adirondack  League  Club  was  organized  on  June  21, 
1890,  by  Mills  W.  Barse,  0.  L.  Snyder,  Robert  C.  Alexander, 
M.  M.  Pomeroy,  and  Henry  C.  Squires.  Its  first  Board  of 
Trustees  was  made  up  of  these  gentlemen  and  the  following: 
A.  G.  Mills,  Warren  Higley,  A.  R.  Harper,  Warner  Miller, 
Henry  E.  Howland,  Henry  Patton,  and  B.  E.  Fernow. 

The  objects  of  the  club  were  and  are:  (1)  The  preserva- 
tion and  conservation  of  the  Adirondack  forest  and  the  propa- 
gation and  proper  protection  of  fish  and  game  in  the  Adiron- 
dack region.  (2)  The  establishment  and  promotion  of  an 
improved  system  of  scientific  forestry.  (3)  The  maintenance 
of  an  ample  preserve  for  the  benefit  of  its  members  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting,  fishing,  rest,  and  recreation. 

On  August  20,  1890,  the  club  acquired  possession  of  Town- 
ships 2,  5,  6,  7  and  8  of  the  Moose  River  Tract,  lying  in 
Hamilton  and  Herkimer  counties,  and  formerly  known  as  the 
Anson  Blake  Tract.  This  tract  contained  104,000  acres,  and 
was  purchased  by  the  club  for  $475,000.  It  was  probably 
the  largest  contiguous  area  of  absolutely  virgin  forest  left  in 
the  Adirondacks,  consisting  mainly  of  birch,  maple,  and 
beech. 

In  1893,  by  a  merger  of  the  Bisby  Club  ^  into  the  League 

iThis  little  club  of  twenty-five  members  was  organized  on  June  1,  187S,  and 
was  the  first  sporting-club  in  the  mountains  to  own  its  preserve.  The  Tahawris 
Club  was  organized  two  years  earlier,  but  held  its  lands  imder  lease.  (See  Chap. 
XIV,  "Adirondack  Iron  Works.") 

159 


160  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

Club,  the  latter  acquired  the  Bisby  property,  consisting  of 
329  acres  around  First  Bisby  Lake.  In  1894  the  League  Club 
purchased  the  Wager  Tract  of  12,000  acres  lying  for  the  most 
part  in  Township  1,  and  containing  numerous  lakes  and 
streams. 

Besides  the  116,000  acres  thus  o>^Tied  by  the  club,  it  con- 
trolled by  lease  the  exclusive  hunting  and  fishing  privileges 
of  75,000  acres  adjoining  it  on  the  east.  The  total  preserve, 
therefore,  amounted  to  nearly  200,000  acres  or  over  275  square 
miles,  an  area  eight  times  as  large  as  Manhattan  Island. 
From  the  most  easterly  to  the  most  westerly  point  in  this  tract 
was  nearly  40  miles,  and  from  the  club-house  on  Honnedaga 
Lake  to  the  one  on  Moose  Lake  there  is  an  almost  straight 
trail  25  miles  in  length. 

The  club  made  its  headquarters  and  erected  its  main  club- 
house on  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  lake  on  this  immense 
preserve — Lake  Honnedaga.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  about 
one  in  width,  and  has  an  elevation  of  2,200  feet,  making  it 
higher  by  some  400  feet  than  either  Raquette  or  Lake  Placid. 

When  it  came  into  possession  of  the  club,  it  was  known  as 
"Jock's  Lake."  Jonathan  Wright  was  one  of  the  most  fa- 
mous hunters,  trappers,  and  Indian-killers  of  the  early  days. 
He  roamed  over  the  Adirondacks,  but  confined  himself  more 
particularly  to  the  southwestern  region  which  lay  nearer  his 
home.  In  some  of  his  wanderings  "Jock,"  as  he  was  famil- 
iarly called,  ran  across  the  unknown  lake  that  was  to  bear  his 
name.  He  fished  in  it  and  made  a  catch  of  such  size  and 
beauty  that  he  decided  to  keep  these  waters  for  his  own 
private  use  as  long  as  possible.  It  was  not  a  difficult  thing  to 
do  at  that  time.  He  spoke  of  the  lake,  and  occasionally  showed 
a  sample  of  its  wares,  but  never  di\ailged  its  whereabouts. 
The  result  was  that  it  was  called  "Jock's  Lake"  both  before 
and  after  its  location  became  generally  known. 

When  it  was  acquired  by  the  Adirondack  League  Club  they 
changed  the  name  to  "Honnedaga  Lake,"  under  the  impres- 
sion that  they  were  restoring  to  it  an  aboriginal  title  of  musi- 
cal sound  and  appropriate  meaning.  Honnedaga  was  thought 
to  mean  "clear  water,"  and  seemed  peculiarly  suited  to  a 


THE  ADIRONDACK  LEAGUE  CLUB  161 

spring-fed  lake,  with  white  sandy  bottom,  whose  waters  were 
remarkably  clear — so  clear,  indeed,  that  the  name  "Transpar- 
ent Lake"  was  sometimes  applied  to  it  in  speech  and  on  some 
early  maps.  The  cold-blooded  philologists,  however,  tell  us 
that  Honnedaga  has  nothing  to  do  with  transparency.  Ac- 
cording to  Beauchamp,  it  means  "hilly  places,"  and  is  a 
name  "recently  applied  to  Jock's  Lake."^ 

No  one  was  more  piqued  over  Wright's  reticence  about  his 
private  lake  than  his  friend  and  rival  in  woodcraft,  Nicholas 
Stoner,  the  most  notorious  Indian-killer  of  his  day.  Nick 
resolved,  therefore,  to  discover  an  unknown  lake  of  his  own, 
and  play  it  off  in  terms  of  mystery  and  speckled  trout  against 
his  friend's.  This  was  soon  done,  and  "Nick's  Lake"  (which 
still  bears  the  name)  was  the  result.  The  southern  end  of  this 
lake  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the  Wager  Tract,  and  is  there- 
fore a  part  of  the  Adirondack  League  Club  Preserve.  It  was 
in  Nick's  Lake,  it  may  be  remembered,  that  Otis  Arnold 
drowned  himself  after  killing  the  guide,  James  Short.^ 

Originally  there  were  no  dues  in  the  Adirondack  League 
Club.  Extra  income  was  earned  through  lumbering-leases. 
The  club's  real  estate  was  capitalized  at  $500,000  represented 
by  500  membership  shares.  These  were  offered  to  members 
at  $1,000  originally,  but  the  price  has  been  advanced  with 
the  development  of  the  property.  Each  share  entitles  the 
holder  to  an  undivided  one  five-hundreth  interest  in  the  entire 
property  of  the  club,  to  the  hunting  and  fishing  privileges  of 
the  entire  tract,  and  to  a  club  deed  for  a  five-acre  plot  wherever 
selected,  with  200  feet  of  water  front,  for  a  private  cottage  or 
camp  site.  About  eighty  of  these  have  been  erected  on  the 
three  larger  lakes. 

In  the  course  of  the  years  the  club  has  sold  some  of  its  land, 
but  still  owms,  70,000  acres  and  leases  22,000,  so  that  it  still 
has  a  playground  covering  about  144  square  miles.  Within  it 
are  56  lakes  and  ponds,  18  miles  of  river — not  counting  small 
streams— and  over  100  miles  of  trails.  There  are  three  main 
club-houses,  one  each  on  Little  Moose  Lake,  Bisby  Lake,  and 

^Aboriginal  Place  yames  of  New  York,  p.  92. 
2  See  Chap.  XIII,  "John  Brown's  Tract." 


162  A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

Honnedaga  Lake.  It  has  been  found  advisable  to  establish 
dues  and  to  divide  the  membership  into  three  classes :  Mem- 
bers (owning  shares),  associate  and  junior  members  (owning 
no  shares).     The  total  membership  at  present  is  about  300. 


CHAPTER  XLIV 
LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL 

IT  was  not  till  the  year  1872  that  the  first  legislative  recog- 
nition of  the  possible  wisdom  of  conserving  the  Adiron- 
dacks  occurred.  There  was  then  created  a  State  Park  Com- 
mission to  consider  their  preservation,  and  a  topographical 
survey  of  the  region  was  authorized. 

,  Its  legislative  and  administrative  history  since  then  has 
been  given  the  perfunctory  record  contained  in  a  long  series 
of  State  reports,  covering  annual  periods  since  1872,  but  not 
always  published  annually.  The  first  reports  were  issued 
by  Verplanck  Colvin  as  State  Surveyor.  They  appeared 
regularly  for  the  first  two  years,  but  after  that  long  lapses 
occurred  between  their  publication.  In  1885  the  Forest  Pre- 
serve and  a  Forest  Commission  were  created,  and  the  latter 
began  issuing  annual  reports,  which  have  been  continued  by 
each  succeeding  commission  up  to  the  present  time. 

These  commission  reports,  it  must  be  remembered,  covered 
the  Catskills  as  well  as  the  Adirondacks,  and  later  the  fisheries 
of  the  entire  State.  They  were  not  exclusively  Adirondack 
reports,  nor  do  they  tell  more  than  a  meager  half  of  the  story. 
The  other  half  this  chapter  will  attempt  to  supply.  For  many 
a  glimpse  behind  the  scenes  which  I  am  able  to  give,  especially 
in  the  important  events  of  1885  and  1894,  I  am  greatly  in- 
debted to  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Peter  F.  Schofield,  Mr.  Frank 
S.  Gardner,  and  Mr.  William  F.  McConnell.  These  gentle- 
men were  leaders  in  the  long  forest  fight,  and  have  graciously 
placed  at  my  disposal  intimate  memories  and  valuable  docu- 
ments relating  to  their  campaigns. 

The  most  compelling  comment  on  the  State's  administration 
of  the  woods  is  published  by  the  woods  themselves.  They  are 
sadly  eloquent  of  neglected  possibilities  and  wasted  opportuni- 
ties. What  might  have  been  a  source  of  ceaseless  income  to 
to  the  State  and  unmarred  beauty  to  the  people,  is  neither. 

163 


164  A  HISTOKY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

The  fault  is  primarily  referable  to  that  public  indifference  to 
future  considerations  which  the  changing  nature  of  democratic 
institutions  tends  to  foster  by  making  it  so  easy  for  every- 
body's business  to  become  nobody's.  It  needed  in  this  in- 
stance the  most  strenuous  efforts  of  a  few  public-spirited  or- 
ganizations and  a  few  unselfish  men  to  arouse  any  general  in- 
terest in  the  forests.  Even  then  the  awakening  was  very 
gradual.  One  of  the  first  to  pave  the  way  for  it  was  Verplanck 
Colvin,  who,  as  an  early  explorer  and  first  topographical  sur- 
veyor of  the  Adirondacks,  did  much,  both  by  ^vord  and  deed, 
to  attract  public  attention  to  them. 

VERPLANCK    COLVTN 

This  name  was  so  closely  linked  with  the  Adirondacks  for  so 
many  years,  and  Mr.  Colvin  was  so  familiar  a  figure  in  them 
in  the  early  days,  that  it  is  a  little  surprising  that  he  did  not 
earn  for  himself  the  title  of  ''Adirondack  Colvin."  This  hon- 
ored prefix  was  occasionally  applied  to  him,  but  it  did  not 
cling  to  his  name  as  it  did  to  Murray's  and  Harry  Radford's, 
although  his  connection  with  the  woods  was  longer  than  theirs. 

From  1865  to  1900  he  was  constantly  surveying  them,  com- 
piling reports,  and  talking  about  them.  He  always  pointed 
with  pride  to  the  fact  that  he  was  the  first  to  advocate  publicly 
their  preservation  as  a  State  park.  He  made  this  suggestion 
in  a  speech  delivered  at  Lake  Pleasant,  Hamilton  County,  in 
1868,  in  the  course  of  which  he  urged  ''the  creation  of  an 
Adirondack  Park  or  timber  preserve,  under  charge  of  a  forest 
warden  and  deputies. ' '  ^ 

1  Mr.  Colvin  thus  quotes  from  this  speech  in  several  private  letters  which  I 
have  seen,  and  refers  to  it  in  some  of  his  reports.  The  speech  does  not  appear 
to  have  been  printed,  nor  can  I  find  any  one  who  even  remembers  it.  Judging 
by  the  time  and  the  place,  the  occasion  was  impromptu  and  the  audience  small. 
Soon  after,  however,  we  have  printed  evidence  of  his  making  the  same  plea  in 
the  same  words.  Tliis  occurs  at  the  close  of  his  paper  on  the  ascent  of  Mount 
Seward,  which  was  published  in  the  24th  Annual  Report  of  the  New  York 
State  Museum  of  Natural  History  for  the  year  1S70.  Here,  for  the  first  time, 
so  far  as  I  can  discover,  the  suggestion  of  a  State  park  appears  in  print.  Some 
may  think,  however,  that  it  is  contained,  though  less  definitely  expressed,  in  an 
editorial  of  the  Xetc  York  Times  as  early  as  1S64.  The  probable  genesis  of  this 
interesting  editorial  was  discussed  in  Chap.  XXVIII,  and  the  full  text  of  it 
will  be  found  in  Appendix  D. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  165 

As  early  as  1865  Mr.  Colvin's  interest  in  the  Adirondacks  led 
him  to  prepare  for  his  own  use  an  outline  map  of  the  region. 
He  began  by  copying  data  from  the  old  colonial  grants,  and 
ended  by  making  a  private  survey  of  the  southern  woods  in 
the  summer  of  the  same  year.  The  idea  of  preserving  them 
as  a  State  park  took  strong  possession  of  him  then  and  there, 
and  he  urged  it  in  his  talk  and  in  his  writings  until  it  became 
an  accomplished  fact. 

He  also  urged  the  wisdom  of  beginning  to  build  an  aqueduct 
from  the  Adirondacks  to  New  York,  foreseeing  that  the  city 
would  some  day  be  compelled  to  turn  to  these  mountains  for 
its  water-supply,^  This  far-sighted  prophecy  was  of  course 
laughed  at  and  ignored  fifty  years  ago,  but  the  day  of  its  ful- 
filment is  drawing  ever  nearer.  If  the  population  of  the 
metropolis  continues  to  increase  at  its  present  rate,  it  is 
easily  demonstrable  that  within  twenty  years  the  utmost 
capacity  of  the  present  water-supply  will  be  inadequate  to 
meet  the  increased  consumption.  When  this  happens,  the 
Adirondacks  must  inevitably  be  tapped. 

In  1870  Mr.  Colvin  made  the  first  ascent  and  measurement 
of  Mount  Seward.  He  loaned  the  record  of  this  expedition 
to  the  State  University  which  published  it  as  part  of  its 
twenty-fourth  annual  report.  In  1872  he  was  named  on  the 
State  Park  Commission  which  was  appointed  to  investigate 
the  feasibility  of  making  a  great  preserve  out  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks. Ex-Governor  Horatio  Seymour  was  made  president 
of  this  commission,  and  Mr.  Colvin  secretary.  The  latter  did 
much  of  the  research  work  and  wrote  the  report  that  was 
finally  submitted.^ 

The  result,  as  far  as  the  Legislature  was  concerned,  was 
merely  to  authorize  a  topographical  survey  of  the  region  and 
to  appoint  Mr.  Colvin  as  superintendent  of  it. 

Thus  began  a  service  with  the  State  that  lasted  for  twenty- 
eight  years — till  1900.  In  this  time  he  naturally  did  an  im- 
mense amount  of  work,  which  is  summarized  in  his  official  re- 
ports. They  were  issued  intermittently,  but  cover  virtually 
the  whole  period.     They  contain  much  dry  statistical  matter, 

1  See  Topographical  Survey  of  the  Adirondack  Wilderness,  1S73-1S74,  P-  288. 

2  For  further  details  see  under  year  1872. 


166  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

of  course,  but  the  earlier  ones,  and  especially  the  first,  have 
the  narrative  interest  and  charm  of  a  journal  of  exploration  in 
some  distant  land.  They  corrected  many  popular  misconcep- 
tions of  long  standing  and  revealed  some  highly  interesting 
discoveries.^  But  when  the  highest  mountains  had  been 
measured,  and  the  location  of  lakes  and  the  sources  of  the 
larger  rivers  determined,  the  glamour  of  novelty  wore  off  and 
his  reports  lost  most  of  their  popular  appeal.  They  became 
the  dry  records  of  old  lines  and  new  boundaries,  in  which  the 
State  or  a  few  individuals  only  had  interest. 

The  years  have  shown  his  work  as  a  whole  to  be  of  very 
uneven  scientific  value.  The  resurvey  of  many  of  his  lines 
has  proved  them  to  be  inaccurate.  Much  of  the  great  mass 
of  material  which  he  collected,  owing  to  the  lack  of  any  sys- 
tematic filing,  tabulation,  or  indexing,  was  made  useless  to 
his  successors.  His  office  at  Albany,  indeed,  looked  more  like 
the  dressing-room  of  a  sporting-club  than  the  repository  of 
valuable  records.  These,  if  there  at  all,  were  apt  to  be  buried 
beneath  a  picturesque  profusion  of  snow-shoes,  mocasins, 
and  pack-baskets. 

This  collection  of  accessories  typified  in  a  way  Mr.  Colvin's 
love  of  the  woods,  which  was  very  genuine.  In  them  he  was 
an  indefatigable  worker,  but,  according  to  guides  who  served 
under  him,  he  was  neither  a  good  woodsman  nor  a  good  man- 
ager. His  field  work  suffered  from  lack  of  ordinary  fore- 
thought for  the  comfort  of  his  men.  Meals  were  irregular; 
supplies  were  uncertain;  and  the  night's  encampment  often 
received  no  attention  till  darkness  enforced  it.  These  things 
caused  quite  unnecessary  hardships,  and  made  his  ser\'ice 
unpopular.  And  it  was  these  shortcomings  in  his  woodsman- 
ship,  I  fancy,  that  robbed  him  of  the  ''Adirondack"  prefix  to 
his  name. 

He  was  bom  in  Albany  on  January  4,  1847.  He  received 
his  early  education  at  home,  from  private  tutors,  but  later 
attended  the  Albany  Academy.  After  graduation  he  went  into 
the  office  of  his  father,  Andrew  James  Colvin,  under  whose 
guidance  he  read  and  practised  law  for  a  while.  But  his 
tastes  all  leaned  to  science,  and  he  soon  deserted  the  law  for 

»  See  Chap.  XV,  under  "Source  of  the  Hudson." 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  167 

the  study  of  geology,  geodesy,  and  topography.  In  1881  he 
lectured  on  these  subjects  at  Hamilton  College.  In  1882  he 
was  appointed  by  Governor  Cornell  a  delegate  to  the  first 
American  Forestry  Congress. 

After  retiring  from  the  Adirondack  Survey  he  became,  in 
1902,  president  of  the  New  York  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
Company — an  enterprise  that  never  progressed  beyond  the 
paper  stage.  Some  old  charters  had  been  acquired,  and  on 
the  strength  of  these  Mr.  Colvin  and  his  friends  sought  per- 
mission to  build  a  railroad  that  should  traverse  the  wilderness 
and  compete  with  the  New  York  Central.  Much  opposition 
developed,  and  attention  was  called  to  the  fact  that  the  former 
Superintendent  of  Surveys  was  now  seeking  a  privilege  for 
himself  which  he  had  always  been  eager  to  oppose  when  it  had 
been  a  question  of  granting  it  to  others.  For  several  years 
spasmodic  attempts  to  secure  a  charter  were  made,  but  none 
was  granted,  and  the  scheme  was  finally  abandoned. 

After  this  Mr.  Colvin  retired  from  public  life  and  lived  in 
hermit-like  seclusion  in  his  home  in  Albany.  With  increasing 
age  his  mental  faculties  became  impaired,  and  he  was  re- 
moved to  the  Albany  Hospital.  He  never  married.  He  was 
a  member  of  a  number  of  outdoor  clubs  and  of  several  scien- 
tific organizations.     He  died  in  December,  1920. 

For  the  purposes  of  a  brief  preliminary  survey  the  legis- 
lative history  of  the  woods  may  be  divided  into  four  fairly 
distinct  periods : 

1872-1885 

The  Colvin  surveys  were  authorized,  and  the  Legislature 
was  prodded  into  a  spasmodic,  half-hearted  interest  in  the 
woods.  It  appointed  investigating  committees,  and  then  vir- 
tually ignored  their  reports.  Finally,  however,  one  was 
heeded,  and  in  1885  a  Forest  Preserve  and  a  Forest  Commis- 
sion were  created. 

1885-1895 

This  was  a  decade  of  unhampered  legislative  control — a 
control  that  played  for  the  most  part  into  the  greedy  hands 


168  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1885-1895  (continued) 

of  the  lumber  interests.  The  net  result  was  to  convince  all 
true  friends  of  the  forests,  and  a  majority  of  the  voters,  that 
the  guarding  of  the  woods  could  not  safely  be  left  to  a  free- 
handed Legislature.  Its  hands  were  consequently  tied  by  a 
drastic  constitutional  amendment  that  went  into  effect  on 
January  1, 1895. 

1895-1915 

These  were  lean  years  for  the  forests.  They  were  years  of 
almost  unceasing,  though  unsuccessful,  attacks  upon  the  new 
amendment.  They  were  years  of  much  lax  administration, 
resulting  in  enormous  lumber  thefts  and  much  questionable 
surrendering  of  the  State's  title  to  its  lands;  they  were,  worst 
of  all,  years  of  the  most  extensive  and  destructive  forest  fires. 
The  lesson  of  all  these  losses  was  driven  home,  however,  and 
the  dawn  of  new  era  began. 

1915-1920 

The  forest  administration  under  a  single-headed  commis- 
sion, and  with  Mr.  George  D.  Pratt  as  commissioner,  was 
brought  to  an  ever  higher  level  of  combative  and  constructive 
efficiency.  Lumber-stealing  has  been  virtually  stopped.  The 
fire  menace  has  been  reduced  to  a  minimum  by  a  well-devel- 
oped detecting  and  fighting  system.  Efforts  to  circumvent 
the  laws  against  the  flooding  of  State  lands  have  almost  en- 
tirely ceased,  and  constitutional  provision  has  been  made  for 
the  legitimate  requirements  of  water-storage.  The  cases  of 
unlawful  occupancy  of  State  lands  have  been  greatly  reduced. 
The  disputed  titles  to  State  lands  are  now  defended  as  they 
should  be.  Violations  of  the  game  laws  are  detected  by  im- 
proved methods  and  punished  without  fear  or  favor. 

Last  but  not  least.  Commissioner  Pratt  has  inaugurated  a 
publicity  and  educational  campaign  through  publications  and 
illustrated  lectures.  This  has  spread  a  knowledge  of  the  com- 
missions's  work  and  aims,  and  awakened  a  sympathy  with 
them  that  is  creating  a  more  general  interest  in  the  woods 
than  has  ever  existed  before. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  169 

The  more  important  details  of  all  these  years  are  chrono- 
logically recorded  in  the  pages  that  follow.  Each  minor 
event,  as  far  as  possible,  is  condensed  into  a  single  paragraph, 
and  the  bigger  events  only  are  given  broader  treatment. 
This  method  is  pursued  in  the  belief  that  the  chapter  will  gain 
in  usefulness  by  being  offered  as  a  compilation  for  easy  refer- 
ence, rather  than  as  a  long,  unbroken  narrative  for  consecu- 
tive reading. 

1872 

First  legislative  action  toward  a  Park. 

In  tliis  year  the  legislative  history  of  the  woods  may  be  said 
to  have  begun.  On  March  15,  Thomas  G.  Alvord  introduced 
in  the  Assembly  an  act  creating  a  State  Park  Commission  ''to 
inquire  into  the  expediency  of  providing  for  vesting  in  the 
State  the  title  to  the  timbered  regions  lying  within  the  conn- 
ties  of  Lewis,  Essex,  Clinton,  Franklin,  St.  Lawrence,  Herki- 
mer, and  Hamilton,  and  converting  the  same  into  a  public 
park." 

First  Park  Commission, 

The  commissioners  named  were: 
Horatio  Seymour 
Patrick  H.  Agan 
William  B.  Taylor 
George  H.  Paynor 
William  A.  Wheeler 
Verplanck  Colvin 
Franklin  B.  Hough. 

Legislature  autJiorizes  First  Topographical  Survet/. 

The  same  Legislature  authorized  Mr.  Colvin  to  make  a 
topographical  survey  of  the  Adirondacks.  His  report  was  not 
published  till  March  10,  of  the  following  year,  but,  like  each 
subsequent  report,  it  will  be  treated  here  under  the  period 
which  it  covers  and  the  date  which  it  bears. 


170         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1872  {continued) 
First  Report  1872. 

Colvin's  first  report,  now  very  rare,  is  a  thin  octavo  volume, 
entitled:  ''Report  on  a  Topographical  Survey  of  the  Adiron- 
dack Wilderness  of  New  York."  This  was  the  first  undertak- 
ing of  its  kind,  for  the  geological  survey  of  Professor  Em- 
mons and  his  assistants  was,  of  course,  something  entirely  dif- 
ferent. The  revelation  of  old  errors  and  new  facts  made  by 
Mr.  Colvin  were  little  short  of  epoch-making.  The  most  im- 
portant of  them  was  undoubtedly  the  discovery  of  the  true 
pond  sources  of  the  Hudson  and  Ausable  rivers,  of  which 
details  are  given  in  Chapter  XV. 

This  First  report  urges  the  protection  of  the  forests  and 
the  conservation  of  its  waters  by  the  State. 

1873 

Report  by  State  Park  Commission. 

On  May  15th  the  State  Park  Commission,  as  might  have 
been  expected  from  the  able  men  it  contained,  made  an  un- 
usually strong  and  intelligent  report  of  their  findings.  They 
advanced  the  most  cogent  reasons  for  setting  the  Adirondacks 
aside  as  a  State  park.  The  Legislature  took  no  action,  how- 
ever. 

Report  for  1873. 

Colvin's  second  topographical  report  was  a  mere  continua- 
tion and  elaboration  of  the  first,  making  a  much  thicker  vol- 
ume, packed  with  statistical  matter,  and  of  very  little  general 
interest. 

New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation  organized. 

In  this  year  the  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transporta- 
tion was  organized  **to  promote  the  Trade,  Commerce  and 
Manufactures  of  the  United  States,  and  especially  of  the  State 
and  City  of  New  York."  There  would  seem  to  be  nothing  in 
this  program  that  would  involve  the  Adirondacks,  but,  as  will 
appear,  this  organization  became  their  special  guardian  at  a 
time  when  they  were  sadly  in  need  of  one. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  171 

1874 

First  gubernatorial  mention. 

Governor  John  A.  Dix,  in  his  annual  message,  made  the  first 
specific  gubernatorial  recommendation  concerning  the  Adi- 
rondacks  by  calling  special  attention  to  the  report  of  the  State 
Park  Commission,  and  urging  the  Legislature  to  take  some 
action  on  its  excellent  suggestions.  Again,  however,  nothing 
was  done. 

Delayed  report. 

Colvin's  report  for  this  year  was  not  issued  till  1879. 

1874-1879 

Report  1874-79,  third  to  seventh. 

Between  these  dates  nothing  of  moment  occurred  in  forest 
matt3rs.  Colvin  issued  no  report  till  1879,  when  one  volume 
appeared,  containing  condensed  reports  for  the  intervening 
years.     They  have  no  general  interest. 

1879-1882 

Second  gubernatorial  mention. 

Between  1879  and  1882  occurs  another  hiatus  in  reports  and 
incidents.  In  1882,  however,  Governor  Cornell  reawakened 
some  interest  in  the  Adirondacks  by  calling  attention  to  them 
in  his  annual  message,  and  making  an  urgent  plea  that  some 
steps  be  taken  to  protect  and  save  them. 

Delayed  report. 

Colvin  did  not  issue  another  report  till  1884. 

1883 

Brooks  resolution. 

Erastus  Brooks  introduced  a  resolution  in  the  Assembly 
asking  the  Committee  on  Agriculture  to  report  some  '* posi- 
tive legislation  for  the  protection  of  the  forests  and  trees  of 
the  State  from  destruction." 


172  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

1883  (continued) 
State  lands  withdraivn  from  sale. 

This  Committee  made  a  report  and  framed  a  bill,  but  the 
Legislature  refused  to  pass  it.  Finally,  however,  it  was 
moved  to  enact  a  law  withdrawing  from  sale  lands  belonging 
to  the  State  '*in  the  counties  of  Clinton,  Essex,  Franklin, 
Fulton,  Hamilton,  Herkimer,  Lewis,  Saratoga,  St.  Lawrence, 
and  Warren."  ^ 

Senate  committee  appointed  to  investigate. 

Soon  after  this  withdrawal  act  had  been  passed,  the  Senate 
appointed  a  committee  to  ascertain  "what  forest  lands  situ- 
ated in  the  said  counties  and  adjacent  to  the  forest  lands  now 
owned  by  the  State  can  be  acquired  by  the  State,  and  at  what 
price."  This  was  the  first  legislative  move  toward  having 
the  State  purchase  outright  lands  with  some  timber  value,  in- 
stead of  acquiring  through  tax  sales  those  having  little  or 
none.  An  appropriation  of  $10,000  was  made,  but  its  expendi- 
ture was  limited  to  lands  in  which  the  State  was  already  a 
joint  owmer,  and  which  were  sold  under  judgment  for  parti- 
tion. 

Chamber  of  Commerce  action. 

On  December  6th  the  New  York  Chamber  of  Commerce 
took  its  first  formal  action  in  the  matter  of  forest-preserva- 
tion, and  thus  became  the  pioneer  civic  organization  to  take 
up  the  fight  for  saving  the  woods  and  waters  of  the  State. 
It  appointed  a  special  committee  for  this  purpose,  and  au- 
thorized it  "to  invite  the  co-operation  of  other  associations 
and  individuals"  to  secure  the  necessary  legislation  for  the 
objects  in  view. 

Morris  K.  Jesup. 

The  chairman  of  this  special  Forestry  Committe  was  Mr. 
Morris  K.  Jesup,  a  wealthy  banker  of  New  York,  and  one  of 
its  most  far-sighted  and  public-spirited  citizens.     He  was  in- 

1  The  only  previous  prohibitory  act  of  this  kind  was  passed  in  1850,  and 
forbid  the  State  to  sell  lands  on  the  Raquette  River  at  less  than  15  cents  per  acre! 
The  State  bought  back  some  of  these  same  lands  at  over  $7.00  per  acre. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  173 

1883  (continued) 
deed  one  of  the  first  knights  errant  to  lay  a  lance  in  rest  for 
the  sorrowing  cause  of  forest-preservation.  His  special  in- 
terest in  the  Adirondacks  was  probably  a  heritage,  for  he  was 
a  direct  descendant — a  great-grandson — of  Ebenezer  Jessup, 
who  at  one  time  Avas  so  largely  interested  in  the  Totten  and 
Crossfield  Purchase  that  it  was  often  called  by  his  name,  and 
the  Jessup  River,  flowing  into  Indian  Lake,  still  bears  it.^ 

Cooperation  of  civic  bodies. 

The  invitation  to  cooperate  sent  out  by  Mr.  Jesup's  Forest 
Committee  brought  the  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Trans- 
portation and  the  Brooklyn  Constitution  Club  into  the  ranks 
of  the  militant  forest  crusaders.  These  organizations  and  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce  fought  the  good  fight  together  for  a 
while  and  did  all  they  could  to  preserve  the  forests  for  the 
benefit  of  the  people.  Mr.  Jesup,  however,  gradually  became 
discouraged  over  the  public  apathy  and  political  opposition 
that  met  his  unselfish  efforts  at  every  turn,  and  he  finally 
withdrew  from  a  contest  that  seemed  so  one-sided  as  to  be 
hopeless.  Soon  after,  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  influenced 
by  the  attitude  of  their  leader  in  the  forest  fight,  also  withdrew. 

New  York  Board  of  Trade  left  alone  in  the  fqht. 

A  little  later  the  Brooklyn  Constitution  Club  ceased  to  ex- 
ist, and  the  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation 
Avas  left  alone  in  the  field.  But  fortunately  it  continued,  al- 
most sirigle-handed  for  many  years,  the  largely  thankless  and 
ever  ceaseless  struggle  to  save  the  woods  from  the  graft  of 
the  politician  and  the  greed  of  the  lumberman.  It  finally  se- 
cured for  the  forests  the  most  momentous  protective  measure 
in  their  history  (see  1S94),  but,  owing  to  the  fact  that  there  is 
nothing  in  the  name  of  the  Board  of  Trade  and  Transporta- 
tion to  suggest  the  Adirondacks,  and  that  its  interest  in  them 
appears  foreign  to  its  other  activities,  the  average  person  is 
totally  unaware  of  the  many  vital  services  the  organization 
has  rendered  to  these  wooded  re.gions. 

1  For  further  details  concerning  Ebenezer  Jessup,  see  Chap.  TX,  "Totten  and 
Crossfield  Purchase."     Formerly  tlie  name  was  spelled  with  a  double  "s." 


174         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1883  (continued) 

Adirondack  Battle  of  the  Marne. 

The  Board  of  Trade  saw  in  the  watersheds  a  mighty  asset 
of  the  Empire  State,  and  it  has  persistently  followed  the  policy 
of  protecting  them,  as  being  essential  to  the  commercial,  in- 
dustrial, and  transportation  interests  of  the  commonwealth. 
While  it  approached  the  problem  as  economic  rather  than  sen- 
timental, there  was  recruited  from  its  ranks  that  small  band 
of  militant  idealists  who,  in  the  face  of  so  much  supine  indif- 
ference and  such  active  opposition,  never  swerved  from  the 
great  object  for  which  they  had  enlisted.  All  that  has  been 
gained  for  it  is  due  to  the  initiative  of  these  few  men.  They 
turned  the  tide  of  events  at  the  most  crucial  moment,  for  it 
was  their  lean-locked  line  that  fought  and  won  the  Adirondack 
Battle  of  the  Marne. 

State  Land  Survey  begun. 

In  June  of  this  year  the  Legislature  authorized  Mr.  Colvin 
to  locate  and  survey  all  the  various  detached  parcels  of  State 
land  in  the  Adirondack  counties.  This  was  in  addition  to  his 
w^ork  on  the  Topographical  Survey,  and  the  two  were  carried 
on  simultaneously.  He  differentiated  them  by  the  titles  ''Adi- 
rondack Survey"  and  ''State  Land  Survey." 

1884 

Report  to  1884  from  1879. 

Colvin  published  a  "Report  on  the  Adirondack  and  State 
Land  Surveys  to  the  Year  1884,  with  a  Description  of  the 
Boundaries  of  the  Great  Land  Patents,  etc."  This  was  the 
first  report  since  1879,  and  covers  the  work  of  the  intervening 
years,  although  it  is  not  divided  into  annual  headings. 

Senate  committee  report. 

The  Senate  committee  appointed  in  1883  to  investigate  the 
acquisition  of  forest  lands  made  a  report  in  which  it  found 
that  "the  State  lands  are  more  valuable  than  has  been  su- 
posed,  and  that  the  interest  of  the  whole  people  require  the 
protection  and  preservation  of  these  forests." 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  I75 

1884  (continued) 
Another  committee  authorised. 

The  only  action  taken  by  the  Legislature  was  to  authorize 
Comptroller  Alfred  C.  Chapin  to  appoint  another  committee 
to  outline  a  policy  of  State  control  of  the  forests.  The  mem- 
bers of  this  committee  were  not  named  until  the  following 
year. 

1885 

Forest  Preserve  and  Forest  Commission  created. 

This  was  a  red-letter  year  in  Adirondack  history.  A  Forest 
Preserve  and  a  Forest  Commission  were  created,  and  the 
State  inaugurated  a  policy  of  forest-protection  and  super- 
vision. By  a  narrow  margin,  however,  it  missed  the  honor 
of  being  the  first  to  do  these  things.  On  March  3d  California 
had  created  the  first  State  Board  of  Forestry  in  the  country, 
and  it  was  May  15th  before  New  York  created  the  second. 

Sargent  Coinmittee  appointed. 

In  January,  Comptroller  Chapin  named  the  following  dis- 
tinguished men  on  the  committee  he  had  been  empowered  to 
appoint,  and  described  them  in  the  language  bracketed  against 
their  names : 

Prof.  Charles  S.  Sargent  of  Harvard  University. 

(A  trained  and  eminent  specialist.) 
D.  Willis  James  of  New  York. 

(A  public-spirited  citizen  of  large  business  experience,  and  long  interested 

in  this  important  question.) 
Hon.  William  A.  Poucher  of  Oswego. 

(An  able  lawyer,  frequently  elevated  by  his  neighbors  to  elective  office.) 
Edward  M.  Sbepard  of  Brooklyn. 

(A  gentleman  whose  rare  native  capacity,  strengthened  by  legal  study  and 

practice,  gives  peculiar  value  to  his  unselfish  and  earnest  effort  to  unravel 

the  complexities  of  this  task.) 

Report  of  Sarge^it  Committee. 

This  committee  made  a  lengthy  report.  It  discussed  the 
further  purchase  of  forest  lands,  but  came  to  the  rather  sur- 
prising conclusion  that  a  State  policy  of  extended  acquisition, 
although  highly  desirable,  was  surrounded  with  practical  dif- 
ficulties which  the  committee  considered  insuperable.    It  made 


176  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1885  {continued) 

definite  recommendations,  however,  for  the  management  of 
the  lands  already  owned  by  the  State,  under  the  supervision 
of  a  Forest  Commission.  These  suggestions  were  embodied 
in  a  series  of  three  bills  which  were  introduced  in  the  Legisla- 
ture, but  failed  to  meet  with  any  enthusiasm  there. 

E.  P.  Martin  committees. 

Meanwhile  the  New  York  Board  of  .Trade  and  Transporta- 
tion and  the  Brooklyn  Constitution  Club  had  been  working 
along  similar  lines  through  special  Forest  Committees  ap- 
pointed by  each  organization.  Mr.  Edmund  Philo  Martin, 
a  brother  of  Homer  Martin,  the  artist,  was  made  chairman  of 
both  committees,  and  Mr.  Peter  F.  Schofield,  another  enthusi- 
astic worker  for  the  woods,  was  made  a  member  of  each. 

Martin  Committees'  reports. 

In  April  these  two  committees  made  separate  reports,  but 
with  certain  recommendations  common  to  both,  and  the  draft- 
ing of  them  -was  largely  Mr.  Schofield 's  work.  They  differed 
from  the  Sargent  report  in  strongly  urging  the  purchase  of 
more  forest  lands.  They  were  widely  distributed  and  read, 
and  did  much  to  enlighten  and  align  public  sentiment  in  favor 
of  forest-preservation. 

New  hill  hy  Martin  and  conference  in  Jesup's  office. 

In  the  meantime  the  three  Sargent  bills  had  been  side- 
tracked in  the  Legislature,  and  Mr.  Martin,  eager  to  revive 
them,  conceived  the  idea  of  introducing  one  new  consolidated 
bill  which  should  combine  and  condense  the  best  features  of 
the  old  ones.  He  found  that  such  a  course  ^'ould  meet  with 
general  favor.  He  therefore  set  to  work  on  the  new  measure 
in  the  drafting  of  which  he  secured  the  very  valuable  advice 
and  assistance  of  Mr.  Frank  S.  Gardner,  the  active  secretary 
of  the  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation,  who 
was  thoroughly  familiar  with  legislative  matters  at  Albany. 
A\nien  the  draft  of  the  bill  was  ready,  Mr.  Martin  arranged  to 
have  it  submitted  to  a  conference  of  friendly  critics,  held  in 
the  office  of  Mr.  Morris  K.  Jesup.     The  latter  had  withdrawn 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  177 

1885  {continued) 

from  active  participation  in  the  forest  fight,  but  was  much 
pleased  that  Mr.  Martin  was  keeping  it  up,  and  was  quite 
willing  to  help  in  a  general  way.  The  meeting  in  his  office 
proved  very  potential,  but,  as  it  was  informal,  no  complete 
record  exists  of  who  was  there  or  of  the  discussion  that  took 
place.  Among  those  present  were  Senator  Henry  R.  Low 
of  Sullivan  County,  and  General  James  W.  Husted,  known  as 
**  the  Bald  Eagle  of  Westchester."  These  gentlemen  had 
originally  introduced  the  Sargent  bills.  Professor  Sargent 
himself  was  there,  and  Edward  M.  Shepard,  Mr.  Jesup,  Mr. 
Martin,  Mr.  Schofield,  and  Mr.  Gardner. 

Result  of  Conference.    Forest  preserve  defined. 

The  result  of  the  conference  was  highly  satisfactory. 
Every  one  present  approved  of  the  new  measure,  and  the  two 
members  of  the  Legislature  agreed  to  introduce  and  push  it. 
This  they  did,  and  on  May  15th  it  became  Chapter  283  of 
the  Laws  of  1885.  Its  two  most  important  provisions  read  as 
follows : 

Section  7:  All  the  lands  now  owned  or  that  may  hereafter  be 
acquired  by  the  State  of  New  York  within  the  counties  of  Clinton 
[excepting  the  towns  of  Altona  and  Dannemora]  ^  Essex,  Franklin, 
Fulton,  Hamilton,  Herkimer,  Lewis,  Saratoga,  St.  Lawrence,  Warren, 
Washington,  Greene,  Ulster,  and  Sullivan,  shall  constitute  and  be 
known  as  the  Forest  Preserve. 

Distinctions  and  additions. 

These  counties  lie  north  and  south  of  the  Mohawk  Valley. 
The  original  act  made  no  distinction  between  them,  but  later 
the  State  lands  in  those  to  the  south  were  called  the  Catskill 
Preserve,  and  in  those  to  the  north  the  Adirondack  Preserve. 
Oneida  County  was  added  to  the  list  in  1887,  and  Delaware 
in  1888. 

Section  8 :  The  lands  now  or  hereafter  constituting  the  forest  pre- 
serve shall  be  forever  kept  as  wild  forest  lands.     They  shall  not  be 

1  The  brackets  are  mine,  added  for  the  sake  of  clearness. 


178         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1885  (continued) 

sold,  nor  shall  they  be  leased  or  taken  by  any  corporation,  public  or 
private.^ 

Commissionership  offered  Mr.  Martin. 

This  act  authorized  the  governor  to  appoint  a  Forest  Com- 
mission of  three  members,  to  serve  without  salary.  He  of- 
fered a  cormnissionership  to  Mr.  Martin,  who,  though  greatly 
pleased  by  this  recognition  of  his  services,  felt  that  his  dis- 
interestedness might  be  brought  into  question  if  he  accepted 
the  appointment.  He  therefore  declined  it,  and  the  following 
gentlemen  were  named : 

Townsend  Cox 
Sherman  W.  Knevala 
Theodore   B.   Basselin 

First  fire-prevention. 

This  act  contained  the  first  provisions  for  fighting  fires 
and  for  preventing  them.  It  provided  that  the  Forest  Com- 
mission should  have  charge  of  the  public  interests  with  refer- 
ence to  forest  fires  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  with  power  to 
appoint  fire-wardens  in  the  different  towns. 

Postings. 

Fire  notices  and  warnings  were  posted  throughout  the 
forest  preserve. 

Plea  for  money  to  buy  lands. 

The  backers  of  the  Forest  Law  strongly  urged  the  Legis- 
lature to  appropriate  $1,000,000  for  the  purpose  of  buying 
forest  lands  to  protect  the  wooded  reliefs  of  the  State.  All 
that  was  needed  could  then  have  been  bought  for  fifty  cents, 
and  even  less,  per  acre.  But  the  request  was  so  unusual,  and 
seemed  to  many  so  foolish  and  exorbitant,  that  it  was  met 
with  thinly  veiled  derision.  An  appropriation  of  $15,000  for 
the  expenses  of  the  Forest  Conmiission  was  voted,  but  that 
was  all. 

1  This  section  became  the  nucleus  of  the  constitutional  amendment  of  1894. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  I79 

1885  (continued) 
First  report  of  Forest  Commission.    1885. 

The  Forest  Commission  now  began  to  issue  regular  annual 
reports.  The  first  is  devoted  mainly  to  fire  data  gathered 
from  all  parts  of  the  preserve.  It  also  contains  a  list  of  State 
lands,  and  an  excellent  map  in  color  showing  the  relative 
density  of  the  wooded  tracts.  It  also  includes  a  valuable 
"Bibliography  of  Forestry;  a  List  of  Books  and  Publications 
on  Forests  and  Tree  Culture."  The  titles  are  grouped  ac- 
cording to  the  libraries  that  contain  them,  and  ten  of  the 
largest  in  the  country  are  included. 

Leasing  recommended. 

The  leasing  of  forest  lands  was  first  recommended  in  this 
report. 

1886 

Calvin's  second  Land  Survey  report. 

In  March  of  this  year  Mr.  Colvin  issued  another — the 
second — of  his  special  reports.  It  bears  the  title:  "Report 
on  the  Progress  of  the  Adirondack  State  Land  Survey  to 
the  Year  1886."  It  is  a  massive  octavo  volume  of  360  pages, 
crammed  with  dry  statistical  matter.  It  has  little  of  interest 
for  the  general  reader,  unless  it  be  the  opening  pages,  which 
explain  very  clearly  and  interestingly  the  infinite  detail  and 
difficulty  of  the  labor  summarized. 

Second  report  of  Forest  Commission.    1886. 

The  second  annual  report  of  the  Forest  Commission  is  a 
thin  book  of  only  160  pages.  It  was  compiled  by  Abner 
Leavenworth  Train,  secretary  of  the  commission,  who  excuses 
the  meagerness  of  the  volume  by  explaining  the  handicaps 
under  which  the  commission  had  had  to  work.  No  office  had 
been  allotted  for  its  use,  so  that  it  had  no  place  properly  to 
collect  and  file  statistical  matter.  What  the  report  lacks  in 
this  respect,  however,  is  replaced  by  some  very  readable 
papers  of  an  educational  nature,  which  make  the  volume  more 
than  ordinarily  interesting  for  the  casual  reader. 


180  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1887 

Report  for  1887. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  merely  a  pamphlet  of  fourteen 
pages,  consisting  almost  exclusively  of  recommended  changes 
in  the  forest  laws. 

Law  permitting  sale  of  lands. 

A  law  was  passed  (without  the  governor's  signature)  allow- 
ing the  comptroller  to  sell  detached  parcels  of  land  outside  the 
preserve  in  order  to  buy  land  within  it.  This  law  was  re- 
pealed in  1892. 

Leasing  amendment  fails. 

An  amendment  to  authorize  the  leasing  of  State  lands  was 
introduced  in  the  Legislature,  but  failed  to  pass. 

1888 

Report  for  1888. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  in  a  bound  volume  again,  of  the 
usual  size,  but  has  no  special  interest.  It  embodies  the  recom- 
mendations in  the  pamphlet  of  1887,  and  reprints  the  ''Biblio- 
graphy of  Forestry"  and  the  "List  of  State  Lands"  from  the 
report  of  1885.  It  also  contains  a  special  report  urging  again 
the  leading  of  State  lands. 

1889 

Report  for  1889. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  a  pamphlet  again,  consisting  of 
only  three  printed  pages.  It  states  that  a  supplemental  re- 
port will  be  submitted  before  the  adjournment  of  the  Legis- 
lature, but  if  such  a  report  was  submitted,  it  does  not  appear 
ever  to  have  been,  printed. 

1890 

Report  for  1890. 

The  publication  of  the  report  for  this  year  was  delayed  by 
the  sudden  death  of  its  compiler  Abner  L.  Train,  secretary  of 
the  Forest  Commission.  Outside  of  routine  matter  it  contains 
a  compilation  of  "Recent  Legislation  pertaining  to  the  Forest 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  181 

1890  (continued) 

Preserve,"  and  '^A  Catalogue  of  Maps,  Field-notes,  Surveys 
and  Land  Papers  of  Patents,  Grants,  and  Tracts  in  the  Forest 
Preserve  Counties." 

Special  report. 

It  also  contains  a  special  report  (previously  submitted) 
bearing  the  caption:  "Shall  a  Park  be  established  in  the  Adir- 
ondack Wilderness  ? ' ' 

Governor  Hill's  special  message. 

This  exhaustive  and  constructive  investigation  was  the  out- 
come of  a  special  message  which  Governor  Hill  had  sent  to 
the  Legislature  on  January  22d.  He  had  referred  to  the 
Adirondacks  in  his  first  annual  message  of  1885,  but  had  not 
mentioned  them  in  succeeding  ones.  In  the  meantime,  how- 
ever, he  had  been  made  to  feel  the  strong  surge  of  public  senti- 
ment in  favor  of  an  Adirondack  park,  and  his  message  on  the 
subject  was  the  result  of  that  pressure.  It  received  immedi- 
ate attention,  and  was  referred  by  the  Senate  to  the  Committee 
on  Finance,  who  made  a  report  and  recommended  a  concur- 
rent resolution  authorizing  the  Forest  Commission  to  take  the 
governor's  message  under  consideration  and  report  on  the 
necessary  details  for  establishing  the  proposed  park.  The  re- 
sult was  the  special  report  mentioned  above.  It  embodied  a 
tentative  act  which  became  the  basis  for  the  creative  one  of 
1892. 

Origin  of  the  ''blue  line." 

With  the  special  report  there  was  issued  the  reproduction 
of  a  map  which  had  been  prepared  by  the  comptroller's  in- 
vestigating commission  of  1884.  It  was  reprinted  for  the 
special  purpose  of  showing  two  diagrams  which  were  added 
to  it  —  one,  in  red,  showing  the  limits  (excepting  outlying  de- 
tached parcels)  of  the  Forest  Preserve ;  and  an  inner  diagram, 
in  blue,  showing  the  boundaries  of  the  proposed  park.  This 
was  the  origin  of  the  now  familiar  "blue  line,"  for  that  color 
has  been  used  ever  since  in  depicting  the  limits  of  the  Adiron- 
dack Park, 


182  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1890  (continiLed) 

First  appropriation. 

The  laws  of  this  year  authorized  the  purchase  of  lands  for 
the  proposed  park  at  a  rate  not  to  exceed  $1.50  per  acre,  and 
an  appropriation  of  $25,000  was  made  for  the  purpose.  This 
was  the  first  direct  appropriation  for  purchasing  lands  in  the 
forest  preserve.^ 

Adirondack  Park  Association. 

As  showing  how  wide-spread  was  the  agitation  for  a  State 
park  in  this  year,  it  is  of  interest  to  note  that  the  leading 
physicians  of  New  York  City  took  the  initiative  in  forming 
an  organization  called  ^'The  Adirondack  Park  Association.'^ 
Its  object  was  ''the  preservation  of  the  Adirondack  forests, 
and  by  practical  means  the  establishment  of  a  State  forest 
park  therein."  The  organizers  were  Drs.  Alfred  L.  Loomis, 
Martin  Burke,  George  H.  Fox,  W.  M.  Polk,  and  E.  C.  Janeway. 
Dr.  Loomis,  one  of  the  earliest  advocates  of  the  Adirondacks 
as  a  health  resort,  was  elected  president  of  the  association, 
and  Mr.  John  Claflin,  vice-president.  Many  prominent  busi- 
ness men  became  members,  and  the  association  rendered  valu- 
able aid  in  bringing  about  the  establishment  of  an  Adirondack 
park,  and  securing  the  passage  of  forestry  laws. 

1891 

Colvin's  third  Land  Survey  report,  1890-1891. 

Colvin  issued  another  Land  Survey  report,  containing,  at 
the  back,  a  report  for  the  year  1890,  and  between  the  two 
several  special  articles  of  interest : 

"Forests  and  Forestry" S.  Von  Dorrien 

"Iron  Deposits  of  the  Adirondacks" Georpe  Chahoon 

"Adirondack   Fishes" Fred   Mather 

"Plants  of  the  Summit  of  Mt.  Marcy" Chas.  H.  Peck 

"Lepidoptera  of  the  Adirondack  Region" J.  A.  Lintner 

"Winter  Fauna  of  Mt.  Marcy" Verplanck  Colvin 

List  of  Maps  in  the  Adirondack  and  State  Land 
Survey  Reports  from  1872  to  189L 

1  The  appropriation  of  $10,000  made  in  188.3  was  limited  to  the  purchase  of 
lands  in  which  the  State  was  a  joint  owner,  and  which  were  sold  under  judgment 
for  partition. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  183 

1891  (continued) 
Forest  Commission  report  for  1891. 

The  Forest  Commission  report  for  1891  contains  a  very- 
informative  and  readable  article  entitled:  **The  Adirondack 
Park."  It  gives  a  narrative  description  of  the  leading  places 
in  the  mountains,  and  the  different  ways  of  reaching  them,  and 
is  illustrated  with  many  excellent  pictures.  It  was  intended 
to  acquaint  the  public  with  some  of  the  manifold  beauties  of 
the  proposed  park. 

1892 

Report  for  1892. 

The  Forest  Commission  report  for  this  year  contains  little 
of  general  interest.  There  is  a  long  list  of  State  lands  which 
form  the  forest  preserve,  arranged  by  counties,  and  the  Cata- 
log of  Maps,  Field-notes,  Surveys,  and  Land-papers  of  Pat- 
ents and  Tracts  is  reprinted  from  the  report  for  1891. 

Adirondack  Park  created. 

The  ADIRONDACK  PARK  was  crcatcd  on  May  20th  of  this  year 
by  ''an  act  to  establish  the  Adirondack  park  and  to  authorize 
the  purchase  and  sale  of  lands  within  the  counties  including 
the  forest  preserve." 

Section  1  of  this  Act  reads  as  follows : 

There  shall  be  a  state  park  established  within  the  counties  of  Hamil- 
ton, Herkimer,  St.  Lawrence,  Franklin,  Essex,  and  Warren,  which 
shall  be  known  as  the  Adirondack  park,  and  which  shall,  subject  to 
the  provisions  of  this  act,  be  forever  reserved,  maintained  and  cared 
for  as  ground  open  for  the  free  use  of  all  the  people  for  their  health 
and  pleasure,  and  as  forest  lands  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  the 
headwaters  of  the  chief  riverj^  of  the  State,  and  a  future  timber 
supply. 

Exchange  of  lands  and  leading  authorized. 

The  act  authorized  the  exchange  of  lands  outside  the  park 
for  those  lying  within  it.  It  also  pennitted  the  leasing  of 
camp  sites  for  a  term  not  to  exceed  five  years,  and  of  not  more 
than  five  acres  to  one  person. 


184  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1893 

Report  for  1893,  two  volumes. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  in  two  volumes,  and  the  first 
contains  much  historical  matter.  There  is  a  lengthy  and  in- 
structive article  on  the  ''Tracts  and  Patents  of  Northern  New 
York,"  in  which  much  information  concerning  those  lesser 
tracts,  excluded  by  their  location  from  this  history,  will  be 
found. 

Macomb  Patent. 

There  is  also  a  copy  of  the  Macomb  Patent,  which  is  a  long, 
tiresomely  verbose  document,  enumerating  the  details  of 
boundaries  and  financial  stipulations.^ 

Description  of  park. 

The  end  of  the  volume  contains  an  interesting  description  of 
the  whole  Adirondacks,  under  the  caption  "Forest  and  Park." 
This  was  only  another  name  for  the  article  entitled  ''The 
Adirondack  Park"  in  the  1891  report.  The  demand  for  this 
was  so  great  that  it  was  reprinted  with  the  addition  of  some 
new  material  and  many  new  pictures. 

Legislative  abstract. 

The  second  volume  of  the  1893  report  is  devoted  entirely 
to  an  abstract  of  legislative  acts  affecting  the  Adirondacks. 

Undesirable  legislation. 

On  April  7th  Governor  Flower,  despite  strenuous  protests, 
signed  a  bill  entitled  "An  act  in  relation  to  the  forest  preserve 
and  Adirondack  park,"  which  became  Chapter  332  of  the  Laws 
of  1893,  a  lengthy  act  containing  many  radical  changes.  Some 
of  them  were  warranted,  but  some  of  them  were  dangerous 
relaxations  from  existing  safeguards. 

Power  to  sell  timber. 

One  of  the  most  objectionable  of  these  was  the  giving  of 
discretionary  power  to  the  Forest  Commission  to  sell  matured 

1  A  copy  of  the  Macomb  Patent,  with  field  notes  of  the  original  survey,  will 
also  be  found  in  the  Report  of  the  State  Engineer  and  Surveyor  of  Sept.  30,  1903. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  185 

1893  (continued) 
and  standing  timber  of  a  certain  size.  This  and  other  threat- 
ening features  of  the  measure  caused  the  New  York  Board  of 
Trade  and  Transportation  and  the  Brooklyn  Constitution 
Club  to  lead  a  publicity  campaign  against  it.  They  were 
not  able  to  defeat  it,  but  there  is  Httle  doubt  that  its  becoming 
a  law  in  the  face  of  their  protests  helped  to  solidify  pubhc 
opinion  in  favor  of  a  constitutional  safeguard  for  the  forests. 

Commission  increased  to  five  members. 

Under  this  act  the  Forest  Commission  was  increased  from 
three  to  five  members,  appointed  by  the  governor.  The  old 
commissioners  ceased  to  hold  office,  and  the  following  new  ones 
were  named: 

Francis    B.    Babcock,    President,    Hornellsville,    N.    Y. 
Samuel  J.  Tilden  of  New  Lebanon,  N.  Y. 
Clarkson  C.  Schuyler  of  Plattsburg,  N.  Y. 
Nathan   Straus  of  New  York,  N.  Y. 
William  R.  Weed  of  Potsdam,  N.  Y. 

New  definition  of  Forest  Preserve. 

The  definition  of  the  Forest  Preserve  was  slightly  changed 
and  made  to  read  as  follows : 

Section  100.  The  forest  preserve  shall  include  the  lands  now  owned 
or  hereafter  acquired  by  the  State  within  the  counties  of  Clinton  [ex- 
cept the  towns  of  Altona  and  Dannemora],^  Delaware,  Essex,  Frank- 
lin, Fulton,  Hamilton,  Herkimer,  Lewis,  Oneida,  Saratoga,  St.  Law- 
rence, Warren,  Washington,  Greene,  Ulster,  and  Sullivan,  except 

1.  Lands  within  the  limits  of  any  village  or  city,  and 

2.  Lands,  not  wild  lands,  acquired  by  the  State  on  foreclosure  of 
mortgage  made  to  the  commissioners  for  loaning  certain  moneys  of 
the  United  States  usually  called  the  United  States  deposit  fund. 

New  definition  of  Adirondack  Park. 

The  definition  of  the  Adirondack  Park  was  made  more  pre- 
cise (see  1892)  by  naming  the  Towns  to  be  included  in  it: 

Section  120.  All  lands  now  owned  or  hereafter  acquired  by  the 

1  The  brackets  are  mine  for  the  sake  of  clearness,  and  the  counties  in  italics 
are  new  ones. 


186         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1893  (continued) 

State  within  the  county  of  Hamilton ;  the  towns  of  Newcomb,  Minerva, 
Schroon,  North  Hudson,  Keene,  North  Elba,  St.  Armand,  and  Wil- 
mington in  the  county  of  Essex;  the  towns  of  narrietstown,  Santa 
Clara,  Altamont,  Waverly  and  Brighton,  in  the  county  of  Franklin; 
the  town  of  Wilmurt,  in  the  county  of  Herkimer ;  the  towns  of  Hop- 
kinton,  Colton,  Clifton,  and  Fine,  in  the  county  of  St,  Lawrence,  and 
the  towns  of  Johnsburg,  Stony  Creek,  and  Thurman,  and  the  islands 
in  Lake  George,  in  the  county  of  Warren,  except  such  lands  as  may 
be  sold  as  provided  in  this  article,  shall  constitute  the  Adirondack 
park.  Such  park  shall  be  forever  reserved,  maintained  and  cared 
for  as  ground  open  for  the  free  use  of  all  the  people  for  their  health 
and  pleasure,  and  as  forest  lands  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  the 
headwaters  of  the  chief  rivers  of  the  State  and  a  future  timber  supply, 
and  shall  remain  part  of  the  forest  preserve. 

Opposition  justified. 

Before  the  year  was  out  there  was  ample  proof  that  the 
opposition  to  the  most  pernicious  feature  of  this  act — Section 
103,  allo\^dn^  the  sale  of  timber — was  fully  justified.  The  fol- 
lowing quotation  ^  summarizes  the  mischievous  situation  it 
created : 

Under  this  law  of  1893,  wood-cutting  operations  of  enormous  extent 
were  projected,  and  contracts  were  entered  into  by  the  Forest  Commis- 
sion itself,  which,  being  made  subject  to  the  approval  of  the  Com- 
missioners of  the  Land  Office,  were  submitted  to  the  judgment  of  the 
State  Engineer  and  Sur\'eyor,  who  advised  against  the  making  of  the 
contracts,  whereupon  an  attempt  was  made  in  the  Legislature  to  de- 
prive the  Commissioners  of  the  Land  Office  of  their  approving  power, 
and  at  this  point  the  advocates  of  forest  protection  became  satisfied 
that  it  could  no  longer  be  safely  left  to  the  Commission  and  the  Legis- 
lature. 

1894 

Colvin's  fourth  Land  Survey  report. 

Colvin  issued  a  Land  Survey  report  covering  the  years  1888, 
1889,  1890,  1891,  1892,  1893.     This  volume  contains  the  same 

1  From  an  Opinion  of  Hon.  Joseph  H.  Choate,  written  Dec.  15,  1905,  at  the 
request  of  the  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks,  in  the  matter  of 
the  applications  to  the  River  Improvement  Commission. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  187 

1894  {continued) 

special  articles  that  were  published  in  the  1890-1891  report, 
which  it  also  includes. 

Last  report  of  Forest  Commission,  1894. 

The  Forest  Commission  report  contains  special  articles  on 
forest  associations  and  commissions  in  other  States,  and  an 
exhaustive  and  highly  technical  treatise  on  the  Adirondack 
Black  Spruce  by  William  F.  Fox.  It  is  the  last  report  issued 
by  the  Forest  Commission,  which  was  legislated  out  of  office 
the  following  year. 

Constitutional  amendment. 

This  was  the  second  red-letter  year  in  Adirondack  history, 
for  it  saw  the  birth,  the  adoption,  and  the  ratification  of  the 
first  Forest  Amendment  to  be  written  into  the  State  Constitu- 
tion. It  is  a  story  of  such  interest  and  importance  as  to  war- 
rant teUing  in  detail. 


THE  STORY  OF  SECTION  7.  ARTICLE  VII  OF  THE  STATE 
CONSTITUTION 

THE  value  of  State  lands  had  been  steadily  increasing 
since  1883,  when  their  sale  had  been  prohibited  by  law. 
Those  who  wanted  them,  however,  found  an  easy  way  of  cir- 
cumventing the  intention  of  the  statute  by  attacking  the  valid- 
ity of  the  State 's  title  to  lands  acquired  through  tax  sales,  and 
thus  forcing  their  relinquishment.  The  creation  of  a  Forest 
Commission  in  1885  seemed  to  stimulate  this  traffic  rather 
than  to  abate  it,  as  had  naturally  been  expected,  and  within  a 
decade  about  100,000  acres  of  land  were  thus  lost  to  the  Forest 
Preserve.  During  the  same  period  systematic  lumber-steal- 
ing was  going  on  with  so  little  effectual  interference  from  the 
State  authorities  as  to  spread  a  strong  suspicion  of  their 
connivance  with  the  wrong-doers.  A  later  investigation  and 
report  of  these  timber  thefts  showed  them  to  have  reached 
ominous  proportions  and  to  have  been  carried  on  with  the 
most  complacent  contempt  of  the  law. 

The  last  straw  in  killing  any  public  confidence  that  was  left 


188  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1894  (continued) 

in  the  administration  of  the  forests,  came  in  1893,  when,  after 
a  legislative  investigation,  a  new  Forest  Commission  of  five 
members  was  created.  Instead  of  wisely  curtailing  its  powers, 
however,  the  new  act  greatly  increased  them,  and  at  the  same 
time  annulled  many  of  the  wise  restraints  which  the  law  of 
1885  had  until  then  imposed.  The  new  Forest  Commission 
was  authorized  to  sell  timber  of  a  certain  described  character 
standing  in  any  part  of  the  Forest  Preserve.  This  was  throw- 
ing the  lid  dangerously  wide  open,  just  when  public  senti- 
ment demanded  that  it  be  closed  more  tightly. 

Before  the  bill  was  signed  the  Forest  Committee  of  the  New 
York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation  and  a  Special  Com- 
mittee of  the  Brooklyn  Constitution  Club  made  strong  appeals 
to  Governor  Flower  to  withhold  his  signature,  but  these  and 
other  protests  proved  unavailing.  The  bill  was  signed  and 
became  a  law — and  an  added  incentive  to  friends  of  the  forests 
to  place  them  beyond  the  reach  of  legislative  tampering. 

Following  the  governor's  disappointing  action  a  disheart- 
ened meeting  of  the  above-mentioned  committees  took  place, 
and  as  it  was  breaking  up,  Mr.  Frank  S.  Gardner,  secretary 
of  the  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation,  made 
this  remark:  '*I  am  convinced  that  the  forests  will  never  be 
made  safe  until  they  are  put  into  the  State  Constitution."  It 
was  a  sigh  that  proved  an  inspiration,  and  became  the  casual 
genesis  of  Section  7  of  Article  VII  of  the  Constitution — mak- 
ing Mr.  Gardner  the  father  of  that  vastly  important  amend- 
ment. 

His  remark  was  caught  up  and  made  at  once  the  subject  of 
serious  discussion,  with  the  result  that  the  Board  of  Trade 
appointed  a  Special  Committee  on  Constitutional  Amend- 
ments to  act  with  their  Forest  Committee  in  securing  consti- 
tutional protection  for  the  woods.  These  two  committees  con- 
sisted of  the  following  members : 

SPECIAL  FORESTRY  COMMITTEE 

OF   THE 

NEW  YORK  BOARD  OF  TRADE  AND  TRANSPORTATION 

Edmund  Philo  Martin,  Chairman   (Geo.  F.  Nesbitt  &  Co.) 
Joseph  J.  O'Donohue  (City  Chamberlain.) 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  189 

1894  {continued) 

Simon  Sterne  (Attorney  and  Counselor.) 

John  H.  Washburn    (Vice-Pres.   Home  Insurance  Co.) 

William  B.  Boorum   (Boorum  &.  Pease.) 

Edwin  S.  Marston   (Sec'y  Farmers'  Loan  and  Trust  Co.) 

Peter  F.  Schofield   (Dry  Goods  Commission.) 

SPECIAL  CO^DIITTEE  ON  CONSTITUTIONAL  AMENDMENTS 

OF   THE 

NEW  YORK  BOARD  OF  TRADE  AND  TRANSPORTATION 
Simon    Sterne,   Chairman    (Attorney    and    Counselor.) 
William  Brookfield    (Pres't  Bushwick  Glass  Co.) 
John  W.  Vrooman   (Life  Insurance.) 
Elias  S.  A.  De  Lima  (D.  A.  De  Lima  &  Co.) 
William  H.  Arnoux  (Arnoux,  Rich  &  Woodford.) 

Mr.  Edmund  P.  Martin,  Mr.  Frank  S.  Gardner,  and  Mr. 
Peter  F.  Schofield,  who,  as  we  have  seen,  were  prominently 
identified  with  the  first  forestry  laws  of  1885,  formed  a  trium- 
virate of  forest  crusaders  that  became  known  in  Albany  as 
**the  forestry  bigots."  But  it  was  the  idealistic  bigotry  of 
these  veterans  of  an  earlier  fight  that  bore  the  brunt  and  bur- 
den of  the  present  one. 

The  plan  to  have  forest-protection  written  into  the  funda- 
mental law  of  the  State  was  greatly  facilitated  by  the  ap- 
proach of  the  Constitutional  Convention  of  1894.  It  per- 
mitted the  amendment,  if  adopted,  to  be  presented  to  the 
people  at  the  next  election,  whereas  the  usual  procedure  re- 
quired the  approval  of  two  legislatures  and  the  lapse  of  two 
years.  As  the  lawmakers  at  Albany  had  shown  themselves 
to  be  under  influences  frankly  hostile  to  conservative  meas- 
ures, there  w^as  added  reason  for  seizing  the  opportunity  of- 
fered by  the  coming  convention. 

Soon  after  it  met,  notices  were  sent  out  that  no  amend- 
ments received  after  a  certain  date  would  be  considered.  This 
caused  Mr.  Gardner  and  Mr.  Schofield  to  bestir  themselves 
somewhat  hurriedly.  They  came  together  at  once  and  com- 
pleted the  draft  of  their  proposed  measure.  It  was  then  sub- 
mitted to  a  joint  session  of  the  Board  of  Trade  committees, 
and  by  them  approved.  Besides  the  proposed  amendment 
there  was  a  memorial  in  its  behalf.     The  latter,  a  scholarly 


190  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1894  (continued) 

plea  for  adoption,  was  written  almost  exclusively  by  Mr. 
Schofield ;  the  former  by  Mr.  Gardner. 

The  nucleus  of  the  amendment  was  based  on  Section  8  of 
the  Forest  Laws  of  1885,  which  read : '  *  The  lands  now  or  here- 
after constituting  the  forest  preserve  shall  be  forever  kept  as 
wild  forest  lands.  They  shall  not  be  sold,  nor  shall  they  be 
leased  or  taken  by  any  person  or  corporation,  public  or  pri- 
vate." The  further  sections  of  the  proposed  amendment, 
which  were  somewhat  lengthy,  prescribed  the  management  of 
the  forests  under  a  single  head,  and  authorized  the  leasing  of 
camp  sites. 

This  document  was  carried  to  Albany  by  William  F.  McCon- 
nell.  Assistant  Secretary  of  the  Board  of  Trade  and  Trans- 
portation, and  placed  in  the  hands  of  Hon.  David  McClure  of 
New  York,  a  Democratic  delegate  to  the  convention,  whose 
strong  sympathies  with  the  forest  movement  were  well  known. 
There  followed  a  conference  in  the  Speaker's  room,  at  which 
some  of  the  leading  members  were  present,  including  Hon. 
Elihu  Root  and  Hon.  Joseph  H.  Choate,  the  president  of  the 
convention.  At  the  close  of  this  conference  Mr.  Choate  turned 
to  Mr.  McConnell  and  said:  ''You  have  brought  here  the  most 
important  question  before  this  assembly.  In  fact,  it  is  the 
only  question  that  warrants  the  existence  of  this  convention." 

This  was  strong  language  and  high  praise,  and  the  impres- 
sion it  created  was  profound.  Especially  did  it  thrill  the 
"forest  bigots,"  who  had  no  foreknowledge  of  how  their  pro- 
posal might  be  received.  As  a  matter  of  fact  it  was  cordially 
welcomed  by  the  entire  convention.  Even  the  delegates  from 
the  wooded  regions  of  the  Adirondacks,  whose  opposition  had 
been  reasonably  expected,  gave  it  the  most  ungrudging  sup- 
port. 

Colonel  McClure  introduced  the  amendment  on  August  1, 
1894,  in  a  stirring  speech,  at  the  close  of  which  President 
Choate  congratulated  him  on  having  brought  forward  in  so 
able  a  manner  so  momentous  a  measure. 

When  it  first  reached  the  convention  the  work  of  that  body 
was  well  under  way  and  its  committees  had  all  been  appointed. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  191 

1894  (continued) 
Nor  was  there  any  to  which  it  could  be  properly  assigned,  for 
no  other  forest  matter  had  been  offered  for  consideration. 
Mr.  Choate,  therefore,  named  a  special  committee  to  deal  with 
it,  and  appointed  Colonel  McClure  as  chairman.  This  was 
both  a  very  unusual  and  a  very  gracious  thing  to  do.  It  was 
unusual  because  Colonel  McClure  was  a  Democrat,  and  the 
convention  had  a  Republican  majority  to  whom,  in  consequence 
and  by  precedent,  the  chainnanship  of  all  committees  should 
have  been  given;  it  was  gracious  because  it  ignored  political 
distinctions  in  order  to  place  this  important  measure  under 
the  most  friendly  and  fitting  guardianship. 

The  committee  of  which  Colonel  McClure  thus  enjoyed  the 
unique  distinction  of  being  made  chairman,  was  composed  of 
the  following  members : 

David  McClure,  Chairman 
John    G.    Mclntyre   of    St.   Lawrence 
Amos  H.  Peabody  of  Columbia 
Chester  B.  McLaughlin  of   Essex 
Charles  S.  Mereness  of  Lewis 

This  committee  gave  the  proposed  amendment  the  most 
careful,  exhaustive,  and  intelligent  consideration.  It  was  in 
hearty  agreement  with  the  fundamental  suggestions  it  con- 
tained, but  thought  it  would  gain  both  in  strength  and  favor 
by  being  more  compact.  It  argued  that  once  the  forest  lands 
had  been  made  impregnable  to  all  the  disguises  of  greed,  their 
management  might  safely  be  left  to  the  Legislature.  Little 
by  little,  therefore,  they  cut  off  the  meat  of  non-essentials, 
and  finally  reported  this  bare,  unbreakable  bone  of  forest 
protection : 

The  lands  of  the  State,  now  owned  or  hereafter  acquired,  con- 
stituting the  forest  preserve  as  fixed  by  law,  shall  be  forever  kept  as 
wild  forest  lands.  They  shall  not  be  leased,  sold,  or  exchanged,  or 
be  taken  by  any  corporation,  public  or  private,  nor  shall  the  timber 
thereon  be  sold  or  removed. 

In  the  discussion  which  followed  it  occurred  to  Judge 
William  P.  Goodelle  of  Syracuse  to  propose  the  addition  of 


192  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1894  {continued) 

the  single  word  destroyed.  This  was  accepted,  and  the  last 
clause  of  the  amendment  was  made  to  read:  "nor  shall  the 
timber  therein  be  sold,  removed,  or  destroyed." 

This  eleventh-hour  suggestion  was  nothing  short  of  a  God- 
sent  inspiration.  All  deemed  it  a  wise  and  strengthening 
addition,  but  it  is  doubtful  if  any  one  at  the  time,  even  its 
originator,  foresaw  the  full  range  of  its  potentialities.  With- 
out it,  despite  all  the  care  and  thought  that  had  been  lavished 
on  the  amendment,  there  would  have  been  no  prohibition  cover- 
ing the  destruction  of  trees  by  flooding,  and  the  loophole  thus 
left  for  the  building  of  dams  would  have  been  most  dangerous. 
But  Judge  Goodelle  detected  the  tiny  hole  in  the  dike  just  in 
time,  and  by  putting  his  finger  in  it  prevented  many  a  disas- 
trous flood.  By  seeming  to  do  a  very  little  thing  for  the 
woods,  he  actually  did  a  very  big  one. 

On  the  evening  of  September  8, 1894,  in  an  eloquent  address, 
Colonel  McClure  presented  the  revised  amendment  to  the  con- 
vention in  committee  of  the  whole.  He  finished  his  speech 
amid  uproarious  applause,  and  the  amendment  was  unani- 
mously advanced  to  the  order  of  a  third  reading.  On  Sep- 
tember 13th,  it  was  adopted  by  the  unanimous  vote  of  122  to  0. 
It  was  the  only  amendment  to  be  so  honored,^  not  only  in  the 
Constitutional  Convention  of  1894,  but  in  any  previous  one 
held  in  the  State. 

There  was  a  trifling  coincidence  connected  with  its  adoption 
that,  while  of  no  importance,  was  yet  of  sufficient  curious 
human  interest  to  be  recorded  here.  Mr.  E.  P.  Martin,  chair- 
man of  the  Forest  Committee  of  the  Board  of  Trade,  and 
ardent  co-worker  with  Mr.  Gardner  and  Mr.  Schofield  for  the 
amendment,  was  a  man  of  some  avowed  superstitions.  A  pet 
one  centered  around  the  number  7,  which  he  held  to  have  bib- 
lical sanction  and  great  potency  in  helping  to  achieve  any  good 
result.  Ho  therefore  always  invoked  its  aid  in  any  scheme 
on  which  he  had  set  his  heart.  He  had  set  his  heart  very  par- 
ticularly on  writing  the  Forest  Amendment  into  the  Constitu- 
tion.    So  he  began  his  work  by  heading  a  committee  of  seven 

1  Out  of  400  amendments  submitted  to  the  Convention,  only  33  were  adopted. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  193 

1894  (continued) 

members  and  calling  them  together  for  the  first  time  on  the 
seventh  day  of  the  month,  and  doing  many  other  things  in  con- 
junction with  his  lucky  number.  When  he  went  to  Albany  to 
follow  the  fate  of  the  amendment  there,  he  insisted  on  having 
room  No.  7  at  the  hotel.  Imagine  his  surprise  and  delight, 
therefore,  when  the  adopted  amendment  took  its  place  in  the 
Constitution,  by  mere&t  chance  of  course,  as  Section  7  of 
Article  VII.  His  joy  at  the  coincidence  is  said  to  have  been 
seven  times  seven. 
The  vote  at  the  polls  on  the  amendment  was : 

410,697  for 
327,402  against 

83,295  majority 

This  small  majority  was  not  an  accurate  reflection  of  popu- 
lar sentiment,  but  a  result  of  complicated  voting.  Out  of  the 
hundreds  of  amendments  offered  to  the  Constitutional  Con- 
vention thirty-three  only  were  chosen  for  submission  to  the 
people.  These  were  divided  into  three  ballots,  one  devoted 
to  the  canals,  one  to  apportionment,  and  one  to  the  remaining 
thirty-one  amendments  collectively.  The  Forestry  Amend- 
ment, despite  vigorous  protests,  w^as  included  in  the  miscel- 
lany, and  undoubtedly  suffered  from  the  inclusion.  Much  of 
its  company  was  unpopular  with  both  parties,  but  especially 
with  the  Democrats,  who  were  instructed  to  vote  "No"  on  all 
the  propositions  in  the  collective  ballot,  as  the  surest  way  of 
defeating  the  objectionable  ones.  In  view  of  this,  fhe  fact 
that  the  Forestry  Amendment  was  carried  at  all  is  more  sur- 
prising than  the  fact  that  it  was  carried  by  so  narrow  a  mar- 
gin. 

The  experience  of  the  years  fully  justified  this  ''Gibraltar 
of  Forestry,"  as  Mr.  Schofield  has  aptly  termed  it.  Its  best 
friends  were  quite  aware,  however,  that  it  embodied  the  wis- 
dom of  necessity,  and  not  of  choice.  The  need  of  the  moment 
called  for  forest-salvation  pure  and  simple ;  it  allowed  no  play 
to  the  desire  for  scientific  development.  The  forests  of  the 
Old  World  had  always  been,  of  course,  the  ideal  for  enthusi- 


194  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1894  (continued) 
asts  in  the  New;  but  these  enthusiasts  had  been  forced  to 
realize  that  the  dream  of  imitation  was  incompatible  with 
our  existing  political  uncertainties.  An  apostolic  permanency 
of  purpose,  backed  by  trained  eflSciency  and  honest  service, 
make  the  essentials  of  ideal  forest  management.  They  were 
once  hoped  and  striven  for  by  our  forest  crusaders ;  they  were 
virtually  abandoned  as  chimerical  in  1894. 

The  friends  of  the  forest  then  found  themselves  in  the  plight 
of  the  man  whose  country  home  is  being  constantly  pillaged 
despite  supposed  police  protection.  He  is  forced  to  put  iron 
bars  across  his  doors  and  windows.  They  add  no  beauty  to 
the  place,  but  they  keep  out  the  thieves — which  happens  to  be 
the  paramount  necessity.  To  carry  the  simile  a  little  farther, 
it  may  be  said  that  while  the  bars  were  being  attached  to  the 
front  of  the  forest  house,  an  attempt  was  being  made  to  enter 
it  from  the  rear. 

The  new  amendment  went  into  effect  on  January  1,  1895. 
Less  than  a  week  before  that  date  three  out  of  the  five  mem- 
bers of  the  Forest  Commission  met  behind  closed  doors  and 
granted  a  right  of  way  across  lands  of  the  Forest  Preserve 
to  the  Adirondack  Railway  Company,  controlled  by  the  Dela- 
ware and  Hudson  Canal  Company.  The  railroad  ^vished  to 
extend  its  line  from  North  Creek  to  Long  Lake,  and  five  or  six 
miles  of  the  proposed  route  lay  over  State  lands. 

It  was  thought  that  the  State  Land  Board  would  have  power 
to  make  this  grant,  and  an  application  was  laid  before  it.  A 
hearing  was  given  at  which  there  was  more  argument  in  favor 
of  the  grant  than  against  it.  The  main  question,  however, 
was  whether  or  not  the  board  had  power  to  act,  and  on  this 
point  the  members  were  divided.  Attorney-General  Hancock, 
who  sat  on  the  board,  rendered  an  opinion  denying  its  power 
to  act,  and  called  attention  to  a  similar  ruling  made  by  the 
attorney-general  in  1891,  when  the  Adirondack  and  St.  Law- 
rence Railroad  had  applied  for  a  right  of  way  over  State  lands. 
But  all  further  discussion  of  the  matter  was  brought  to  a 
sudden  stop  by  the  serving  of  an  injunction  on  each  individual 
member  of  the  board  who  was  present.  This  paralyzing 
action  was  taken  by  an  outsider  Henry  W.  Boyer,  who  owned 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  195 

1894  {continued) 
land  along  the  line  of  the  proposed  grant.  This  injunction 
fell  like  a  bomb  into  the  camp  of  the  grabbers.  It  was  par- 
ticularly disconcerting  because  their  time  for  action  was  get- 
ting so  short.  January  1,  1895,  was  only  a  few  days  away, 
and  if  they  did  not  secure  their  grant  by  that  time,  the  iron 
gates  of  the  new  Forestry  Amendment  would  automatically 
close  upon  their  opportunity.  Of  tliis  they  were  well  aware. 
Then  was  staged  one  of  those  high-handed,  high-'flavored  epi- 
sodes that  give  a  touch  of  paprika  to  political  intrigues. 

It  was  known  that  a  majority  of  the  Forest  Commission  was 
ready  to  do  what  the  Land  Board  had  just  been  restr'aiiied 
from  doing.  An  immediate  meeting  of  the-  Forest  Commis- 
sion— the  supposed  guardians  of  the  forest — was  therefore  ar- 
ranged. The  moment  was  propitious  for  the  object  in  view. 
President  Babcock,  of  the  commission,  was  out  of  toAvn,  and 
no  effort  was  made  to  reach  him.  Mr.  Nathan  Straus,  another 
conscientious  commissioner  who  might  have  made  trouble, 
was  in  Europe.  Mr.  McClure  and  Mr.  Martin  who,  on  behalf 
of  the  Board  of  Trade,  had  been  following  events  in  the  Land 
Board,  had  started  for  home,  thinking  all  danger  of  the  grant 
was  over.  The  field  was  therefore  enticingly  clear  of  bother- 
some meddlers,  and  full  advantage  was  taken  of  their  absence. 

The  two  members  of  the  Forest  Commission  who  were  in 
Albany,  Samuel  J.  Tilden  and  W.  R.  Weed,  and  the  vice- 
president  of  the  railroad  company  met  in  a  private  room  of  the 
Delavan  House  at  seven  o'clock  on  the  evening  of  December 
27,  1894.  Here  they  waited  for  the  arrival  of  a  third  member 
of  the  Forest  Commission,  whose  presence  was  necessary  to 
make  a  quorum.  This  gentleman  Dr.  Clarkson  C.  Schuyler 
was  at  his  home  in  Plattsburg  when  this  sudden  meeting  was 
called.  In  the  ordinary  course  of  events  he  could  not  have 
reached  Albany  that  evening.  But  the  ordinary  course  of 
events  was  suspended  throughout  this  affair;  the  extraor- 
dinary was  substituted.  The  railroad  people  were  so  anxious 
to  have  Dr.  Schuyler  on  hand  that  they  placed  a  special  engine 
and  car  at  his  disposal  and  brought  him  down  to  Albany  in 
record-breaking  time.  No  such  effort  was  made,  however,  to 
secure  Dr.  Babcock 's  attendance.     About  8.30  p.  m.  Dr.  Schuy- 


196  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1894  {cojitinued) 

ler  joined  his  colleagues  at  the  Delavan  House,  and  imme- 
diately voted  with  them  to  grant  the  Adirondack  Railway  Com- 
pany a  right  of  way  over  virgin  State  lands. 

As  soon  as  this  star-chamber  proceeding  became  known, 
it  aroused  very  general  indignation.  The  friends  of  the  for- 
est, including  Dr.  Babcock  himself,  secured  an  injunction  de- 
claring the  action  of  the  Forest  Commission  null  and  void.  A 
few  days  later  the  constitutional  amendment  went  into  effect 
and  put  a  definite  quietus  on  any  similar  abuse  of  the  forest 
stewardship. 

How  galling  the  new  restraint  proved  to  all  self-seeking 
interests  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  not  a  year  has  passed  since 
it  became  operative  without  some  attempt  being  made  through 
the  Legislature  to  modify  it.  None  succeeded  till  the  year 
1913. 

1895 

Legislature  prepares  new  amendment. 

The  Legislature  began  within  ten  days  to  lay  the  foundation 
of  an  attack  on  the  new  amendment  by  passing  one  intended 
to  modify  it.  This  measure  received  the  necessary  approval 
of  the  succeeding  Legislature,  and  was  submitted  to  the  people 
in  1896,  under  which  date  it  will  receive  more  extended  notice. 

Fisheries,  Game,  and  Forest  Commission  created. 

The  Forest  Commission  was  legislated  out  of  office  and 
replaced  by  the  Fisheries,  Game,  and  Forest  Commission — 
which  was  simply  a  merging  of  these  two  separate  commis- 
sions into  one.  There  was  no  obvious  gain  for  the  Adiron- 
dacks  in  the  merger.     The  new  commissioners  were: 

Barnet  H.  Davis,  President 
Henry  H.  Lyman 
Charles  H.  Babcock 
William  R.  Weed 
Edward  Thompson 

First  report  with  colored  plates,  1895. 

The  first  report  of  the  Fisheries,  Game,  and  Forest  Commis- 
sion inaugurated  a  series  (ten  volumes,  extending  to  1909  in- 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  197 

1895  (continued) 
elusive)  of  very  elaborate  and  expensive  reports.  They  are 
quarto  volumes  (8x11),  printed  on  glazed  paper,  in  large  type, 
and  containing  many  full-page  illustrations,  and  very  beauti- 
ful colored  plates  of  fish  and  game.  Of  these  the  preface 
says:  '^When  the  Commissioners  came  to  determine  the  scope 
of  this  report,  it  seemed  to  be  best  that  some  of  the  fishes  of 
the  State  should  be  figured,  and  as  figures  in  black  and  white 
appear  to  lack  something,  figures  of  some  of  the  fishes  in  col- 
ors were  decided  upon.  These  color-drawings  have  been  re- 
produced so  exactly  that  no  colored  figures  of  fishes  in  exist- 
ence exceed  them  for  truthfulness  or  beauty  of  execution. 
They  are  absolutely  faithful  reproductions,  which  can  be  said 
of  no  other  work  of  this  kind." 

These  claims  are  fully  justified.  The  demand  for  the  re- 
ports was  wide-spread  and  far  exceeded  the  supply,  which  was 
limited  by  law.  Indi\^duals,  scientific  bodies,  and  libraries, 
both  here  and  abroad,  became  eager  to  possess  these  unusual 
books,  and  copies  of  them  are  to  be  found  in  public  and  private 
collections  all  over  the  world.  The  articles  they  contain,  espe- 
cially those  on  fish-culture,  have  great  value  for  the  specialist, 
but  those  having  an  exclusive  Adirondack  interest  are  few. 

1896 

Second  report;  John  Brown's  Farm,  1896. 

The  second  report  of  the  Fisheries,  Game,  and  Forest  Com- 
mission contains  the  usual  special  articles,  mainly  on  fish 
and  game,  with  a  few  on  forestry.  The  colored  plates  are  of 
fish,  birds,  oysters,  and  enemies  of  the  oyster.  A  special  feat- 
ure of  Adirondack  interest  is  a  lengthy  and  well-illustrated 
article  on  ' '  The  John  Brown  Farm. ' '  The  Legislature  passed 
a  law,  signed  by  the  governor  on  March  25,  1896,  by  which  it 
accepted  the  deed  of  gift  of  the  farm  from  Henry  Clews  and 
his  wife.  The  formal  acceptance  was  made  the  occasion  of 
special  exercises  at  the  farm  on  July  21,  1896,  and  these  are 
fully  reported  in  the  above  article,  as  well  as  in  Chapter  XXXI 
of  this  work.  A  peculiar  and  interesting;  situation  to  which 
the  report  calls  attention  was  that  created  by  the  occupancy 
of  State  lands  under  lease. 


198  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1896  {continued) 
Problem  of  leased  lands. 

The  law  of  1892  authorized  the  Forest  Commission  to  lease 
camp  sites;  the  constitutional  amendment  of  1894  prohibited 
leasing.  In  the  meantime  seventeen  leases  had  been  made 
in  the  forest  preserve,  but  only  eight  of  them  were  in  the  park 
— four  on  Raquette  Lake,  three  on  the  Lower  Saranac,  and 
one  on  Chapel  Pond.     The  others  were  on  Lake  George. 

As  these  leases  could  not  be  renewed  at  their  expiration,  a 
nice  legal  question  arose  as  to  what  should  be  done  with  the 
buildings  which  tenants  had  erected.  The  solution  later  de- 
cided upon  was  to  tear  down  all  permanent  buildings  found 
on  State  land. 

Attack  on  Section  7. 

This  year  saw  the  completion  of  preparations  for  the  first 
attack  on  Section  7  of  Article  VII  of  the  Constitution.  With- 
in ten  days  after  its  adoption  by  the  people  Senator  Malby 
had  introduced  an  amendment  to  modify  it,  which,  passed  by 
the  Legislature  of  1895,  was  passed  again  at  this  session,  and 
was  submitted  to  the  people  at  the  November  elections.  It 
met,  however,  with  an  overwhelming  defeat.  It  read  as  fol- 
lows: 

The  lands  of  the  State,  now  owned  or  hereafter  acquired,  consti- 
tuting the  Forest  Preserve  as  now  fixed  by  law,  shall  be  forever  kept 
as  wild  forest  lands.  Except  as  authorized  by  this  section,  they  shall 
not  be  leased,  sold,  or  exchanged,  to  be  taken  by  any  corporation, 
public  or  private,  nor  shall  the  timber  thereon  be  sold,  removed  or 
destroyed.  The  Legislature  may  authorize  the  leasing,  for  such  terms 
as  it  may  fix  by  law,  of  a  parcel  of  not  more  than  five  acres  of  land 
in  the  Forest  Preserve,  to  any  one  person  for  camp  and  cottage  pur- 
poses. The  Legislature  may  also  authorize  the  exchange  of  lands 
owned  by  the  State  situate  outside  the  Forest  Preserve,  for  lands  not 
owned  by  the  State,  situate  within  the  Forest  Preserve.  The  Legis- 
lature may  also  authorize  the  sale  of  lands  belonging  to  the  State, 
situate  outside  the  Forest  Preserve,  but  the  money  so  obtained  shall 
not  be  used  except  for  the  purchase  of  lands  situate  within  the  Forest 
Preserve,  and  which,  when  so  purchased,  shall  become  a  part  of  the 
Forest  Preserve. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  199 

ISdQ  (continued) 
Big  vote  against  amendment. 

As  to  the  merits  of  the  suggested  changes,  it  is  suflScient  to 
call  attention  to  the  fact  that  they  had  all  been  thoroughly 
discussed  in  the  Constitutional  Convention  of  1894,  and  had 
been  unanimously  voted  down.  In  view  of  this,  their-  revival 
within  the  shortest  possible  time  limit  was  a  bit  of  political 
effrontery  that  roused  widespread  indignation  and  received  a 
notable  rebuke.  Nor  were  matters  helped  by  an  open  letter 
signed  by  Barnet  H.  Davis,  president  of  the  Fisheries,  Game, 
and  Forest  Commission,  and  widely  circulated.  This  letter 
claimed  that  neither  the  present  commission  nor  its  predeces- 
sors had  anything  to  do  with  the  passage  of  the  amendment, 
but  strongly  urged  its  adoption.  It  concluded  with  these 
words:  ''We  believe  the  amendment  a  desirable  one,  and 
officially  recommend  its  adoption.  We  ask  every  citizen  to 
vote  on  the  question  aiid  vote  for  it."  The  advice  worked  as 
a  boomerang.  It  drew  forth  the  largest  vote  ever  cast  against 
a  constitutional  amendment — a  defeating  majority  of  411,000. 
The  official  count  was  less,  however,  because  22,000  negative 
ballots  were  thrown  out  on  account  of  a  technical  error  in 
the  printing.  Thus  ignominiously  ended  the  first  assault  on 
the  ''Gibraltar  of  Forestry." 

1897 

Third  commission  report,  1897. 

The  third  report  of  the  Fisheries,  Game,  and  Forest  Com- 
mission contains  the  usual  special  articles,  principally  on  fish 
and  game.  For  the  Adirondacks  there  are  long  statistical 
tables  of  wood-consumption  and  manufacture,  also  some  "For- 
estry Tracts,"  by  William  F.  Fox — little  educational  preach- 
ments. 

Forest  Preserve  Board. 

Acting  on  a  suggestion  in  Governor  Black's  annual  message, 
the  Legislature  passed  a  law  creating  a  Forest  Preserve  Board 
of  three  members.  To  this  board  was  given  exclusive  power 
to  acquire,  by  purchase  or  condemnation,  lands  or  waters 


200         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 
1897  {continued) 

within  the  Adirondack  Park.  An  appropriation  of  $600,000 
was  made,  and  the  comptroller  was  authorized  to  borrow 
$400,000  more,  if  necessary,  for  the  same  purpose.  This 
board  lasted  for  four  years  and  issued  four  annual  reports. 
These  contain  nothing  but  statistical  matter,  and  have  become 
exceedingly  scarce. 

1898 

Fourth  commission  report,  1898. 

The  fourth  report  of  the  Fisheries,  Game,  and  Forest  Com- 
mission contains  the  usual  articles  on  fish  and  game,  and  the 
following  ones  of  special  Adirondack  interest : 

"Adirondack  Cottage  Sanitarium" E.  L.  Trudeau,  M.  D. 

"Adirondack   Forestry  Problems" B.  E.   Fernow 

"Bibliography  of  the  Adirondacks" Cecelia  A.   Sherrill 

This  bibliography  was  the  first  of  its  kind,  and  the  only  one 
until  the  later  compilation  for  this  history  was  undertaken. 

*' Through  the  Adirondachs  in  Eighteen  Days." 

A  resolution  was  passed  in  the  Assembly  on  March  31st, 
authorizing  the  appointment  of  a  committee  of  nine  **to  in- 
vestigate as  to  what  more  lands  shall  be  acquired  mthin  the 
Forest  Preserve  in  order  to  protect  the  water  sheds,  and  for 
the  Agricultural  Experimental  Station."  This  committee 
was  appointed  in  August,  and  Captain  James  H.  Pierce  of 
Bloomingdale,  Essex  County,  was  made  chairman.  He  called 
the  members  together  at  the  end  of  August,  and  they  started 
from  Saratoga  for  a  trip  through  the  Adirondacks.  They 
made  a  report  which  was  published  under  date  of  February  9, 
1899  (Assembly  Doc.  No.  43).  Their  findings  and  recom- 
mendations cover  but  a  few  pages,  and  the  bulk  of  the  volume 
is  taken  up  by  an  Appendix  of  119  pasfos,  which  is  by  far  the 
most  interesting  part  of  the  book.  It  boars  the  title  '  *  Through 
the  Adirondacks  in  Eighteen  Days,"  and  was  written  by  Mar- 
tin V.  B.  Ives,  one  of  the  committee.  It  is  the  story  of  the 
trip,  interspersed  with  bits  of  history  and  legend,  and  illus- 
trated with  many  excellent  and  unusual  photographs.  It  is 
altogether  an  entertaining  contribution  to  Adirondack  lore. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  201 

1899 

Serioios  fires. 

In  this  year  very  extensive  and  dangerous  fires  broke  out 
all  over  the  Adirondacks.  A  drought  of  unusual  length  had 
prepared  the  way  for  them.  They  started  in  Hamilton 
County  on  August  6th,  and  within  a  few  days  others  had  flared 
up,  almost  simultaneously,  all  over  the  region.  Fortunately 
they  were  mostly  on  cleared  and  waste  lands,  the  trees  of  the 
denser  forest  being  in  full  leaf  and  so  in  a  measure  protected. 
But  the  danger  to  them  was  very  great,  for  the  multiplicity 
of  the  fires  made  it  almost  impossible  to  fight  them  all  at  the 
same  time,  and  showed  the  existing  system  to  be  totally  in- 
adequate. In  some  localities  there  were  not  enough  men. 
In  others  there  was  manifest  reluctance  by  Town  officials  to 
call  out  the  necessary  number  on  account  of  the  expense  in- 
volved. Many  men,  moreover,  flatly  refused  to  help  on  ac- 
count of  the  slowness  of  the  pay  they  would  receive.  The 
situation  was  so  serious  that  one  of  the  forest  commissioners 
was  obliged  to  go  to  Albany  and  consult  with  Governor  Roose- 
velt and  Comptroller  Morgan.  They  arranged  for  emergency 
measures,  and  the  fires  were  finally  extinguished.  Surpris- 
ingly little  damage  had  been  done  to  the  heavy  timber,  but  it 
was  a  warning  of  what  might  happen  and  of  what  did  happen 
very  soon. 

Fifth  report,  1899. 

The  fifth  annual  report  of  the  Fisheries,  Game,  and  Forest 
Commission  has  two  special  features  of  Adirondack  interest, 
a  detailed  report  on  the  fires  of  this  year,  and  a  lengthy  illus- 
trated article  on  the  ''Beginnings  of  Professonal  Forestry  in 
the  Adirondacks, "  by  B.  E.  Femow,  Director  of  the  New  York 
State  College  of  Forestry  at  Cornell  University. 

Plans  for  College  of  Forestry. 

This  contains  the  full  details  of  the  plans  for  an  experiment 
which  was  the  first  of  its  kind  in  the  Adirondacks — and  bids 
fair  to  be  the  last.  It  was  intended  as  an  attempt  to  emulate 
the  educational  methods  of  European  forestry,  and  as  such 


202  A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1899  {continued) 

was  watched  with  wide-spread  interest  and  many  high  hopes. 
Its  questionable  progress  and  rather  sudden  collapse  elicited 
so  much  comment  and  discussion  at  the  time  that  it  became  a 
conspicuous  episode  in  Adirondack  history. 

STORY   OF   THE   CORNECLL  COLLEGE   OF   FORESTRY 

BY  Chapter  122  of  the  Laws  of  1898,  the  State  of  New 
York  provided  for  the  creation  of  a  State  College  of 
Forestry  under  the  auspices  of  Cornell  University.  The  act 
authorized  the  State  to  pay  for  a  tract  of  forest  land  in  the 
Adirondacks,  of  which  the  university  should  have  the  title, 
possession,  management,  and  control  for  thirty  years.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  the  land  was  to  revert  to  the  State. 

The  tract  was  to  be  used  to  ''plant,  raise,  cut  and  sell  timber 
at  such  times,  of  such  species  and  quantities,  and  in  such  man- 
ner as  it  may  deem  best,  with  a  view  to  obtaining  and  impart- 
ing knowledge  concerning  the  scientific  management  and  use 
of  forests,  their  regulation  and  administration,  the  production 
and  harvesting,  and  reproduction  of  wood  crops  and  earning 
a  revenue  therefrom." 

Dr.  B.  E.  Femow,  a  professional  forester,  was  appointed 
director  of  the  college.  He  had  received  his  training  in  the 
Forest  Academy  of  Prussia,  and  for  six  years  had  been  con- 
nected with  forest  administration  in  that  country.  He  came 
to  America  in  1876,  and  had  charge  of  a  large  timber  tract 
belonging  to  Cooper,  Hewitt  &  Co.  in  Pennsylvania.  From 
there,  in  1885,  he  went  to  Washington  as  Chief  of  the  Forestry 
Division  of  the  United  States,  where  he  remained  until  asked 
to  become  the  head  of  the  new  College  of  Forestry  in  1898. 
The  offer  was  made  to  him  after  a  careful  search  for  the  best 
fitted  man  for  the  position.  While  in  Washington  he  had  be- 
come secretary  of  the  American  Forestry  Association,  and 
later  became  its  vice-president.  He  was  the  author  of  ''The 
History  of  Forestry  in  All  Countries"  and  "Economics  of 
Forestry,"  two  standard  works  that  were  used  as  text-books 
by  the  Yale  Forestr>'  School  and  elsewhere.  He  was,  in  short, 
a  thoroughly  trained  and  equipped  forester,  but  he  was  not, 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  203 

1899  {continued) 
as  the  event  proved,  so  good  a  business  manager.    After  leav- 
ing the  Cornell  College  of  Forestry  he  became  Dean  of  the 
Faculty  of  Forestry  of  Toronto  University,  Canada. 

The  land  finally  agreed  upon,  with  the  necessary  approval 
of  the  Forest  Preserve  Board,  was  a  tract  of  30,000  acres  in 
Frankhn  County,  including  a  small  strip  of  Township  26,  and 
the  entire  west  half  of  Township  23,  which  is  divided  by 
Upper  Saranac  Lake.  The  approximate  center  of  the  prop- 
erty was  at  Axton,  at  the  south  end  of  the  old  Indian  Carry, 
on  the  Eaquette  River.  This  is  an  old  lumber  settlement 
that  owes  its  name  to  having  been  originally  called  Axe-town. 
It  is  about  thirteen  miles  from  Tupper  Lake  village  by  road. 
Here  the  college  established  its  field  headquarters,  using  at 
first  the  buildings  they  found  there,  and  gradually  erecting 
some  new  ones. 

This  tract  was  bought  from  the  Santa  Clara  Lumber  Co.  for 
$165,000  and  the  entire  purchase  price  was  paid  by  the  State, 
out  of  the  moneys  appropriated  for  the  acquisition  of  land  in 
the  forest  preserve.  The  original  act  allowed  $10,000  for 
expenses,  and  the  Legislature  appropriated  the  same  sum 
annually  in  1899, 1900,^901,  and  1902.  These  appropriations 
were  used  mainly  for  the  salaries  of  the  director  and  his 
assistants.  An  extra  appropriation  of  $30,000  was  made  in 
1899  and  again  in  1900.  These  sums  were  designated  as 
''working  capital  for  improving,  maintaining,  and  administer- 
ing" the  affairs  of  the  college. 

The  regular  annual  appropriation  of  $10,000  was  inserted  in 
the  Appropriation  Bill  of  1903,  but,  owing  to  the  hue  and  cry 
which  had  been  raised  against  the  college,  it  was  vetoed  by 
Governor  Odell.  In  consequence  of  this  action,  which  de- 
prived the  university  of  State  support,  it  closed  its  College  of 
Forestry  in  June,  1903,  and  dismissed  Director  Fernow,  For 
nearly  a  j^ear  more,  however,  it  continued  to  cut  wood  on  the 
college  tract  under  an  appropriation  for  cleaning  up  and  re- 
planting. 

This  was  necessitated  by  a  contract  which  the  university 
had  entered  into,  in  May,  1900,  with  the  Brookljai  Cooperage 
Company,  and  by  which  it  was  bound  to  cut  and  deliver  wood 


204         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1899  (continued) 
off  the  college  tract  for  at  least  fifteen  years.  The  contract 
was  made  with  the  avowed  purpose  of  clearing  the  land  so  that 
it  could  be  replanted,  but  both  profit  and  benefit  were  expected 
from  the  expedient.  It  yielded  both — but  for  the  Cooperage 
Company  only.  The  price  at  which  the  university  agreed  to 
cut  and  deliver  their  wood  proved  to  be  less  than  the  dual 
operation  cost  them.  This  robbed  them  of  the  funds  they 
expected  to  use  for  replanting,  and  allowed  the  denudation 
process  to  assume  a  lamentable  ascendancy. 

As  part  of  the  contract  the  Brooklyn  Cooperage  Company 
erected  a  stave-and-heading  factorj^  to  use  the  logs,  and  a 
wood-alcohol  plant  to  use  the  cordwood,  in  the  village  of  Tup- 
per  Lake.  It  also  built  a  logging  railway  from  the  village 
to  the  college  tract — a  distance  of  about  four  miles.  This 
alone  involved  the  destruction  of  all  the  trees,  to  a  width  of 
twenty-five  yards,  along  the  line  of  the  tracks. 

The  relation  of  this  contract  to  the  purposes  for  which  the 
College  of  Forestry  had  been  created  and  financed  is  so  clearly 
set  forth  and  summarized  in  the  opinion  rendered  by  Justice 
Chester  of  the  Supreme  Court,  Albany  Special  Term,  in  June, 
1910,  that  I  quote  in  part  from  that  review  of  the  case  :^ 

The  contract,  which  was  not  in  the  name  of  the  State,  but  of  the 
University,  was  made,  as  held  by  the  Court  of  Appeals,  under  a  ''re- 
stricted agency,"  and  the  Cooperate  Company  knew  or  were  bound 
to  know  the  restrictions  upon  the  powers  of  the  agent,  and  that  as 
such  restricted  agent  it  could  only  legally  act  within  the  powers  granted 
and  in  furtherance  of  the  purposes  of  the  act  of  1898.  That  con- 
ferred no  power  or  authority  to  the  University  to  incur  any  obliga- 
tions of  any  character  in  excess  of  the  amount  appropriated  by  the 
act  and  outside  of  such  purposes. 

The  University,  it  is  true,  under  the  law  had  the  power  to  "cut  and 
sell  timber  at  such  times,  of  such  species  and  quantities  and  in  such 
manner  as  it  may  deem  best,"  but  such  power  was  required  to  be 
exercised  "with  a  view  to  obtaining  and  imparting  knowledge  con- 
cerning the  scientific  management  and  use  of  forests,  their  regulation 

1  Printed  Case  on  Appeal.     In  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  State  of  New  York. 

Appellate    Division.     Third    Department.     People    of    the    State    of  New    York 

against  The  Brooklyn  Cooperage  Co.  and  Cornell  University.     The  Argus  Co., 
printers.     Albany,   1911. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  205 

2 

1899  {continued) 
and  administration,  the  production,  harvesting  and  reproduction  of 
wood  crops  and  earning  a  revenue  therefrom,"  and  it  was  required 
to  conduct  such  "experiments  in  forestry  as  it  may  deem  most  advan- 
tageous to  the  interests  of  the  State  and  the  advancement  of  the  science 
of  forestry."  The  prime  purpose  of  the  act,  and  it  was  so  stated  in 
the  title,  was  "to  promote  education  in  fo^estrJ^"  Everything  in  the 
law,  and  all  the  powers  therein  conferred,  were  aimed  to  accomplish 
that  purpose.  The  law  confers  no  power  upon  the  University  to  bind 
the  State  for  a  period  of  fifteen  years  or  to  bind  it  to  cut  and  remove 
one-fifteenth  of  the  wood  and  timber  standing  on  the  college  forest 
in  each  year  during  that  time,  and  especially  not  under  a  contract 
which  would  have  the  effect,  if  executed,  of  completely  defeating  the 
purposes  of  the  act. 

In  providing  for  clearing  the  entire  tract  in  fifteen  years  the  Uni- 
versity was  deprived  to  a  large  extent  of  the  power  of  experimental 
forestry,  which  was  one  of  the  purposes  of  the  act.  It  is  evident  that 
one  of  the  purposes  of  the  Legislature  in  authorizing  the  sale  of  timber 
and  wood  was  to  render  the  College  self-supporting  by  earning  a 
revenue  therefrom.  Under  the  contract  there  could  be  no  net  reve- 
nues, as  expenses  exceeded  the  income.  The  Cooperage  Company 
suffered  no  loss  because  of  the  increased  cost  of  labor  and  supplies, 
and  received  all  the  benefit  of  the  increased  and  increasing  price  of 
lumber.  The  cutting  and  selling  under  such  conditions  were  not  and 
could  not  be  conducted  at  a  profit,  but  were  conducted  at  considerable 
and  increasing  loss.  The  contract,  therefore,  was  the  means  whereby 
this  purpose  was  completely  defeated.  .  .  . 

About  3,100  acres  of  the  College  Forest  were  cleared  of  their  timber 
during  the  comparatively  brief  time  the  College  was  in  operation, 
but  only  about  440  of  these  were  replanted.  At  this  rate,  if  the  con- 
tract was  to  be  executed,  a  very  considerable  portion  of  the  College 
Forest  would  be  practically  denuded  of  its  trees  during  the  life  of  the 
contract  for  the  benefit  of  a  private  industry  and  not  for  the  promo- 
tion of  education  in  forestry.  ,  .  .  There  is  proof  in  the  case  that  500 
acres  were  sufficient  for  conducting  experiments  on  the  "clear  cut- 
ting" system  of  forestry  as  distinguished  from  the  "selection  sys- 
tem. ' ' 

The  replanting  of  a  cleared  forest  is  a  matter  of  large  expense.  If 
the  contract  was  to  be  complied  with  the  revenue  from  the  sale  of  logs 
and  wood,  after  paying  the  expense  involved  in  cutting  and  delivering 
them,  would  leave  an  annual  deficit,  and,  of  course,  nothing  to  cover 
the  expense  of  replanting.     The  contract,  therefore,  was  the  means  of 


206  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1899  {continued) 
defeating  this  purpose,  which  was  one  of  the  prime  essentials  of  the 
entire  scheme.  It  would  result  in  a  denuded  territory  and  not  a  re- 
forested one.  This  important  work  of  reforestation  could  not  be  per- 
formed if  this  contract  is  to  be  enforced,  unless  the  State  provide  large 
and  continuous  appropriations,  which,  as  I  view  the  matter,  it  was 
under  no  legal  obligations  to  make.  .  .  . 

I  think  the  plaintiff  (the  people)  is  entitled  to  judgment  declaring 
the  contract  to  be  void,  and  directing  a  conveyance  to  it  of  the  lands 
in  question,  with  costs  against  the  defendant  Cooperage  Company. 

Among  the  first  outsiders  to  take  serious  note  of  what  was 
happening  on  the  college  lands  were  those  who  had  summer 
camps  in  the  vicinity.  In  1901  Mr.  Eric  P.  Swenson,  as  presi- 
dent of  the  Association  of  Residents  on  Upper  Saranac  Lake, 
made  application  to  the  attorney-general  *Ho  institute  pro- 
ceedings on  behalf  of  the  People  of  the  State  of  New  York  to 
have  the  purchase  of  30,000  acres  of  land  in  Franklin  County 
by  Cornell  University  declared  unconstitutional  and  void,  and 
to  have  the  title  to  said  land  vested  in  the  People  of  the  State 
of  New  York,  subject  to  the  provisions  of  Article  VII,  Section 
7  of  the  Constitution." 

Owing  to  the  contract  suit  had  to  be  brought  against  the 
Cooperage  Company,  who  demurred  on  the  ground  of  insuffi- 
cient cause  for  action.  The  demurrer  was  overruled  at  Spe- 
cial Term,  and  this  judgment  was  affirmed  successively  by  the 
Appellate  Division  and  the  Court  of  Appeals.  A  good  cause 
for  action  having  thus  at  last  been  established  the  case  came 
to  trial  and,  in  June,  1910,  the  Supreme  Court,  Albany  Special 
Term,  gave  judgment  against  the  Cooperage  Company.  They 
then  carried  the  case  to  the  Court  of  Appeals  where,  on  March 
19,  1912,  it  was  again  and  finally  decided  against  them. 

Thus,  after  ten  years  of  litigation,  ended  a  case  that  in  the 
beginning  attracted  wide  attention  and  aroused  much  heated 
discussion.  When  trouble  began.  Director  Fernow,  who  had 
the  shaping  of  the  college  policies,  not  unnaturally  became  the 
storm-center  of  the  controversy.  He  was  violently  attacked, 
but  also  stanchly  defended  in  certain  quarters.  He  pleaded 
his  own  cause  in  speeches,  pamphlets,  magazines,  and  open 
letters  to  the  press,  seeking  to  explain  his  theories  and  justify 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  207 

1899  (continued) 

his  methods.  But  he  was  not  able  to  convince  many  that  his 
futuristic  theories,  however  sound,  were  a  satisfactory  offset 
to  the  immediate  disadvantages  of  his  application  of  them. 
His  judgment  was  seriously  impugned,  but  few  if  any  of  his 
critics  imputed  to  him  any  dishonesty  of  purpose. 

1900 

Report  for  1900. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  particularly  full  of  Adirondack 
matter.    Among  the  special  articles  are : 

"Methods  of  Estimating  and  Measuring  Standing  Timber" A.  Kneehtel 

"A  Study  in  Practical  Reforesting" J.  Y.  McClintock 

"A  Forest  Working  Plan  for  Township  40" J     ^^'P^  S.  Hosmer 

\       Eugene  S.  Bruce 
"History  of  the  Lumber  Industry  in  the  State  of  New  York" Wm.  F.  Fox 

This  last  is  an  exhaustive  and  scholarly  treatise,  helpfully 
illustrated  by  a  number  of  excellent  pictures.  I  have  referred 
to  it  more  particularly,  and  quoted  from  it,  in  Chapter  XLIII. 

Name  of  commission  changed. 

Early  in  this  year  the  name  of  the  commission  was  changed 
to  the  ** Forest,  Fish  and  Game  Commission,"  and  a  set  of 
revised  and  improved  fopest  laws  was  passed.  This  was  the 
direct  outcome  of  recommendations  made  by  Governor  Roose- 
velt in  his  annual  message  to  the  Legislature,  urging  that  the 
State  forests  be  managed  with  the  same  degree  of  efficiency 
and  foresight  that  was  bestowed  on  those  under  private  con- 
trol. During  his  entire  administration  he  omitted  no  oppor- 
tunity of  furthering  this  policy,  and  no  other  governor  gave 
the  welfare  of  the  woods  more  persistent  initiative  or  enthusi- 
astic support. 

Roosevelt  cleans  house. 

Soon  after  taking  office  Governor  Roosevelt  had  his  atten- 
tion called  to  the  prevailing  dissatisfaction  with  the  forest 
administration.  The  Forest  Commission  service  had  become 
a  haven  for  political  favoritism,  and  its  employees  for  the 


208  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1900  (continued) 

most  part  had  only  that  fitness  for  their  jobs  which  party 
loyalty  conferred.  A  house-cleaning  was  needed,  and  the 
governor  seized  the  reforming  broom  with  his  usual  energy 
and  began  to  ply  it  with  characteristic  fearlessness.  He  met, 
of  course,  with  stubborn  and  retarding  opposition,  but  he  fin- 
ally succeeded  in  reorganizing  the  personnel  of  the  commis- 
sion from  top  to  bottom. 

Wehb  suit  for  State  flooding. 

Growing  discontent  with  the  administration  of  the  forests 
was  emphasized  by  a  report  of  the  State  comptroller  reveal- 
ing a  system  of  deliberate  depredations  on  State  lands,  and 
enormous  sums  paid  by  the  State  for  unnecessarily  overflow- 
ing and  damaging  private  property.  Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb 
sued  the  State  for  $184,350  for  damages  caused  by  a  dam 
on  the  Beaver  River  at  Stillwater,  which  had  raised  the  water 
nine  feet.  This  claim  was  settled  by  the  State  buying  from 
Dr.  Webb,  in  1895,  for  $600,000  the  damaged  and  surrounding 
land  to  the  extent  of  75,377  acres. 

1901 

Report  for  1901. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  particularly  rich  in  varied 
articles,  colored  plates,  and  other  illustrations.  Two  articles 
of  special  Adirondack  interest  are : 

"Moose" Madison  Grant 

"The  Adirondack  Black  Bear" George  Chahoon 

Commission  reduced. 

Chapter  94  of  the  Laws  of  1901  made  several  important 
changes  in  the  forest  administration.  Following  a  recom- 
mendation in  Governor  Odell's  message,  the  Forest  Preserve 
Board  was  consolidated  with  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Com- 
mission, and  the  latter  was  reduced  from  five  to  three  members 
(one  Commissioner  and  two  Deputies)  mth  the  proviso  that 
after  January  1,  1903,  it  should  consist  of  one  member  only. 
This  single  commissioner  was  to  act  with  two  commissioners 
of  the  Land  Office.    All  these  appointments  were  to  be  made 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  209 

1901  (continued) 

by  the  governor,  who  was  thus  virtually  placed  in  control 
of  the  forest  machinery. 

Appropriation  vetoed. 

An  appropriation  of  $250,000  was  made  for  the  usual  pur- 
chase of  lands  in  the  forest  preserve,  but  was  vetoed  by  Gover- 
nor Odell  on  the  ground  that  the  State's  policy  in  this  matter 
was  too  indefinite.  His  excuse  seemed  scarcely  less  so,  but 
he  maintained  his  negative  attitude  and  made  a  distinct  break 
in  the  long  line  of  governors  who  had  shown  friendly  concern 
for  the  welfare  of  the  forests.  Governor  Odell  was  reelected 
on  a  platform  that  included  a  pledge  to  resume  land  purchases, 
but  it  was  not  till  1904  that  he  signed  an  appropriation.  Even 
then,  with  his  virtual  control  of  the  political  end  of  forest 
matters,  he  was  able  to  keep  the  appropriation  from  being 
spent  during  his  term  of  oflBce. 

Hounding  abolished. 

The  hounding  of  deer  was  permanently  abolished.  It  had 
been  suspended  for  five  years  by  a  law  of  1896. 

Moose  Bill. 
Eadford's  Moose  Bill  was  passed  and  signed. 

1902 

Report  for  1902. 

The  report  for  this  year  was  delayed  and  was  included  in 
the  report  for  1903.  The  1902  section  contains  nothing  but 
routine  matter. 

First  planting. 

The  first  planting  done  by  the  State  was  in  this  year,  when 
700  acres  of  State  land  in  Franklin  County  were  planted  with 
stock  purchased  from  the  Cornell  School  of  Forestry. 

Appropriation  for  nursery. 

An  appropriation  of  $4,000  was  made  to  establish  a  forest 
nursery. 


210         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1902  {continued) 
Elk  liberated. 

Through  the  generosity  of  Hon.  William  C.  Whitney  twenty- 
two  elk  were  liberated  at  Raquette  Lake. 

A.  P.  A.  organized. 

This  year  saw  the  organization  of  the  Association  for  the 
Protection  of  the  Adirondacks,  the  details  of  which  follow. 

THE   ASSOCIATION    FOR   THE   PROTECTION    OF   THE 
ADIRONDACKS 

THE  end  of  1901  and  the  beginning  of  1902  saw  the  incep- 
tion of  a  movement  for  an  organization  devoted  ex- 
clusively to  Adirondack  interests.  It  was  suggested  to  the 
Hon.  Warren  Higley,  president  of  the  Adirondack  League 
Club,  that  an  association  of  the  many  clubs  and  preserve- 
owners  in  the  region  would  help  to  promote  the  great  interest 
they  had  in  common — the  protection  and  the  welfare  of  the 
woods  in  general.  He  secured  from  Albany  a  list  of  forty- 
two  such  organizations,  controlling  a  total  area  of  over  700,000 
acres.  These  were  all  invited  to  send  representatives  to  a 
conference  to  be  held  by  courtesy  of  the  New  York  Board  of 
Trade  and  Transportation  in  its  rooms.  Owing  to  this  it 
has  been  sometimes  assumed  that  the  new  association  was 
an  offspring  of  the  older  one.  But  such  was  not  the  case. 
The  two  organizations  were  not  affiliated,  excepting  in  having 
a  common  purpose  in  forest-preservation.  For  this  they  fre- 
quently joined  forces  at  critical  moments,  but  for  the  most 
part  they  worked  independently  and  even  differed  occasionally 
as  to  their  forest  policies. 

The  preliminary  meeting  of  the  new  association  was  held 
on  December  12,  1901.  It  was  largely  attended,  and  among 
the  many  distinguished  and  influential  men  who  came  to  it 
were  Governor  Odoll  and  Lieutenant-Governor  Woodruff,  who 
at  the  time  was  president  of  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Com- 
mission. Both  these  gentlemen  were  heartily  in  favor  of  the 
proposed  association,  and  the  general  sentiment  for  it  was  so 
unanimous  that  a  committee  was  appointed  to  select  a  name 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  211 

1902  {continued) 

and  draw  up  a  plan  of  permanent  orgajiization.  The  meet- 
ing then  adjourned  to  January  3,  1902. 

On  this  date  a  name,  and  a  constitution  and  by-laws  were 
submitted  and  adopted,  and  the  Association  for  the  Protection 
of  the  Adirondacks  came  formally  into  existence.  The  only 
important  divergence  from  the  original  plan  was  the  very  wise 
decision  to  make  the  association  not  one  of  clubs  but  one  of 
individuals,  so  that  it  would  be  open  to  anybody  in  sympathy 
with  its  objects.  These  were  briefly  stated  to  be :  "  The  preser- 
vation of  the  Adirondack  forests,  waters,^  game,  and  fish,  and 
the  maintenance  of  healthful  conditions  in  the  Adirondack 
region." 

Thirty  trustees  were  elected,  in  groups  of  ten,  to  serve  three 
years  each.  On  January  28th  they  held  their  first  executive 
meeting  and  proceeded  to  the  election  of  officers.  The  name 
of  Judge  Higley  was  suggested  for  president,  but  he  thought 
best  to  decline  on  account  of  being  the  head  of  the  largest  club 
in  the  Adirondacks.  The  following  ticket  was  then  proposed 
and  elected : 

President: Henry  E.  Howland 

let  Vice-President:      .      .  Warren  Higley 

2d    Viee-President:      .      .  James  MacNaughton 

3d    Vice-President:       .      .  William  Barbour 

4th  Vice-President:      .  William  G.  Rockefeller 

5th  Vice-President:      .      .  William  C.  Whitney 

Treasurer: Edwin  S.  Marston 

Secretary: Henry  S.  Harper 

At  this  meeting  it  was  decided  to  employ  a  salaried  assist- 
ant secretary,  who  should  give  as  much  time  as  was  required 
to  the  affairs  of  the  association.  Dr.  Edward  Hagaman  Hall, 
Secretary  of  the  American  Scenic  and  Preservation  Society, 
was  considered  the  most  desirable  choice  and  was  offered  the 
position.  He  accepted,  and  began  on  February  1,  1902,  his 
long  service  with  the  association,  of  which  he  is  now  secretary. 

A  Committee  on  Legislation  was  appointed  and  began  deal- 
ing at  once  with  the  situation  at  Albany,  where  several  dan- 
gerous bills  were  pending.  Later  the  services  of  a  permanent 
watcher  of  legislation  at  the  capitol  were  secured.     The  asso- 


212  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1902  (contmued) 

elation  immediately  went  on  record  as  being  opposed  to  any 
change  in  Section  7  of  Article  VII  of  the  Constitution,  and 
voted  "that  this  action  be  communicated  to  both  houses  of  the 
Legislature  and  be  expressed  as  publicly  as  possible."  It  also 
began  adding  the  pressure  of  its  influence  to  that  of  the  Board 
of  Trade  and  Transportation  in  bringing  about  the  resump- 
tion of  land  purchases  wdthin  the  Adirondack  Park.  This 
policy  had  been  promoted  by  Governors  Flower,  Morton, 
Black,  and  Roosevelt,  but  was  opposed  by  Governor  Odell. 

At  the  first  annual  meeting  of  the  association,  held  on  April 
8,  1902,  Harry  Radford  made  the  suggestion  that  if  some 
scientific  body  would  offer  a  substantial  reward  for  the  find- 
ing of  a  substitute  for  wood-pulp,  such  a  discovery  would  do 
more  than  anything  else  to  help  save  the  forests  from  de- 
struction. How  great  the  menace  from  this  source  was,  and 
still  is,  may  be  gathered  from  the  following  impressive  figures. 
A  certain  New  York  newspaper,  credited  with  a  circulation  of 
800,000  copies,  issued  an  edition  consisting  of  eighty  pages. 
This  single  edition  required  the  product  of  9,779  trees,  sixty 
feet  high  and  ten  inches  in  diameter  at  breast  height,  which, 
if  planted  forty  feet  apart,  would  represent  a  forest  area  of 
352  acres ! * 

Radford's  suggestion  was  taken  up  by  the  association,  which 
seriously  considered  offering  a  reward  for  a  wood-pulp  sub- 
stitute. But,  after  further  discussion,  it  was  deemed  best  not 
to  do  this,  but  to  use  the  influence  of  the  association  for  the 
desired  object  in  other  ways,  and  especially  by  arousing  the 
interest  and  securing  the  cooperation  of  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment. This  was  successfully  done  by  sending  Dr.  Hall  to 
"Washington,  and  the  quest  thus  started,  though  never  re- 
warded, has  never  been  entirely  abandoned. 

The  association  was  incorporated  on  June  20,  1902,  and  by 
the  end  of  the  year  it  had  a  total  of  1,044  members. 

The  general  scope  of  its  activities  will  appear  in  the  follow- 
ing pages.  It  was  soon  recognized  as  a  potent  factor  in  Adi- 
rondack affairs,  and  could  point  with  pride  to  some  of  its  po- 

1  These  figures  are  taken  from  the  sixth  annual  report  of  the  association. 


LEGISLATIVE  CX)NTROL  213 

1902  {continued) 

litical  enemies.  Others  sought  to  belittle  it  as  a  combination 
of  rich  men  and  large  landholders  who  were  primarily  seek- 
ing advantages  for  themselves  and  their  preserves.  This  im- 
pression still  obtains  to  some  extent,  but  nothing  could  be 
further  from  the  truth.  The  members  of  the  association  have 
reaped  such  personal  benefits  from  it  only  as  must  accrue  to 
the  individual  from  any  improvement  of  general  conditions. 
To  bettering  these  it  has  devoted  itself  with  unselfish  persist- 
ency, and  it  has  never  championed  any  cause  but  the  rights 
of  the  people  at  large,  as  vested  in  the  lands  of  the  State  and 
the  laws  of  the  land. 

1903 

Report  for  1902-3. 

The  report  for  this  year  includes  the  delayed  one  for  1902, 
and  the  plan  of  delaying  and  lumping  the  annual  reports  was 
pursued  for  the  next  few  years,  presumably  for  economical 
reasons.  The  volume  for  1902-3  contains  several  beautifully 
illustrated  and  very  interesting  articles  of  both  general  and 
special  forest  interest  : 

"The  Cultivated  Forests  of  Europe" A.  Knechtel 

"Nursery  Methods  io  Europe" Wm.  F.  Fox 

"Notes  on  Adirondack  Mammals" Madison  Grant 

"Squirrels  and  Other  Rodents" F.  C.  Paulmier 

Nursery  established. 

A  forest  nursery,  covering  a  little  over  two  acres,  was  es- 
tablished -at  Saranac  Inn  station. 

Forest  Commission  becomes  single-headed. 

The  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commission  became  single- 
headed,  and  remained  so  till  1910.  DeWitt  C.  Middleton  of 
Watertown  was  appointed  commissioner. 

Board  of  Trade  defeats  Lewis  Grab  Bill. 

The  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation,  sec- 
onded by  the  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  led  a  long  hard  fight  that  ended  in  the  defeat  of  what 


214  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1903  (continued) 

was  known  as  the  Lewis  Water  Storage  (Grab)  Bill,  which 
threatened  a  dangerous  invasion  of  the  woods  under  the  guise 
of  preventing  floods  and  freshets.  The  hidden  menaces  in 
the  bill  were  fully  exposed  by  a  pamphlet  published  by  the 
Committee  on  Forests  of  the  Board  of  Trade  and  Transporta- 
tion. 

A.  P.  A.  investigates  surrender  of  State's  titles. 

The  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks  be- 
gan investigating  conditions  in  Township  40,  Totten  and 
Crossfield  Purchase,  with  a  view  to  stopping  the  State  from 
too  readily  surrendering  its  title,  when  challenged,  to  forest 
lands.  This  has  ever  since  been  an  important  phase  of  the 
association's  activities. 

FOREST  riRES  OF  1903 

The  most  wide-spread  and  disastrous  fires  since  1880  ^  oc- 
curred in  the  spring  of  this  year.  They  lasted  from  April 
20th  to  June  8th,  when  they  were  extinguished  by  the  rain  that 
ended  a  six  weeks'  drought.  They  burned  over  600,000  acres 
of  timber  land,  cost  $175,000  to  fight,  and  did  direct  and  com- 
putable damage  estimated  at  $3,500,000.2 

In  April  a  farmer  near  Lake  Placid  lost  control  of  a  fallow 
fire.  It  smouldered  in  the  duff  until  June  3d,  when  it  was 
whipped  into  a  furious  surface  fire  by  high  winds.  It  trav- 
eled eight  miles  in  two  hours  and  a  half,  jumping  over  clear- 
ings and  streams,  and  becoming  a  ** crown"  fire  in  the  heavy 
timber — that  is,  burning  in  the  tree-tops,  the  most  inaccessible 
place.  It  was  this  fire  that  swooped  down  upon  and  destroyed 
Adirondack  Lodge,  amid  the  thrilling  incidents  described  in 
the  chapter  on  that  locality. 

A  similar  fire  in  Keene  Valley  burned  from  Cascade  to  near 

1  The  fires  of  1880,  according  to  the  U.  S.  Census,  burned  over  149,491  acres  and 
did  damage  estimated  at  $1,210,785. 

2  These  figures  include  private  property.  They  are  taken  from  a  pamphlet 
entitled:  Forest  Fires  in  the  Adirondacks  in  1903,  by  H.  M.  Suter,  U.  S.  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  Bureau  of  Forestry,  Circular  No.  26. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  215 

1903  {continued) 
St.  Hubert's  Inn,  a  distance  of  nine  miles.  A  fire  started  at 
Roaring  Brook  and  burned  over  17,000  acres.  In  the  Neha- 
sane  Preserve  12,000  acres  were  burned  over,  and  the  camp 
buildings  were  saved  only  by  the  bringing  of  fire-engines  on 
the  railway  from  Herkimer  and  Ilion.  Fires  took  a  toll  of 
10,000  acres  in  each  of  the  following  places— around  Catlin 
Lake,  on  the  A.  A.  Low  Preserve,  and  on  the  De  Camp  Tract. 

The  largest  fire  of  all,  however,  was  on  the  Rockefeller  Pre- 
serve, where  40,000  acres  were  devastated.  There  is  little 
doubt  that  owing  to  the  bitter  local  feeling  against  Mr.  Rocke- 
feller at  the  time,^  the  fires  on  his  property  were  more  numer- 
ous and  serious  than  they  might  otherwise  have  been.  Cer- 
tain it  is  that  he  had  to  bring  in  train-loads  of  Italians  to  fight 
them,  and  that  the  unfamiliarity  of  the  men  with  that  kind  of 
work  made  their  assistance  next  to  useless. 

These  were  merely  some  of  the  larger  fires.  Smaller  ones 
flared  up  by  the  thousands.  The  whole  woods  were  ablaze. 
For  six  weeks  hundreds  of  men  did  nothing  but  fight  fire  day 
and  night.  There  was  little  wind  during  the  first  part  of  the 
time,  and  a  heavy  pall  of  smoke  hung  everywhere  and  seldom 
lifted.  It  added  immensely  to  the  difficulties,  the  nervous 
strain,  and  the  discomfort  of  the  whole  situation.  In  many 
places  it  was  possible  to  sleep  at  night  only  by  lying  on  the 
floor  or  in  the  bottom  of  a  boat. 

As  it  was  the  breeding  and  nesting  season,  both  game  and 
birds  were  destroyed  in  large  quantities,  but  there  was  no  loss 
of  human  life,  although  there  were  many  narrow  and  thrilling 
escapes.  The  fire-fighting  machinery,  while  still  cumbersome 
and  inadequate,  worked  much  more  smoothly  than  in  1899, 
because  nearly  every  one  in  1903  stood  to  lose  something  if  the 
fires  spread.  But  despite  the  unanimous  effort  resulting  from 
the  ubiquitous  danger,  it  was  obvious  to  every  one  that  no  hu- 
man intervention  could  have  saved  the  woods  from  complete 
destruction  had  the  fires  and  the  high  winds  lasted  a  few  days 
longer.  Nothing  but  the  rains  saved  the  situation.  The  les- 
son was  carried  home  to  every  thoughtful  person  that  no 

1  This  was  due  to  his  trouble  with  Lamora.     See  Chap.  XLII,  under  "Brandon." 


216         A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 
1903  (continued) 

purely  combative  measures  could  prevent  the  recurrence  of 
disaster.  This  could  be  avoided  only  by  some  comprehensive 
system  of  prevention  and  early  detection.  Such  a  system  was 
gradually  evolved,  but  not  until  the  need  of  it  was  driven  home 
again  by  the  destructive  fires  of  1908. 

1904 

No  report. 

For  report  see  1906. 

Act  defining  the  "blue  liyie.'' 

On  April  13th  an  amendatory  act  was  passed  defining  ex- 
actly the  boundaries  of  the  Adirondack  Park,  and  extending 
them  so  as  to  include  about  42,000  additional  acres.  The  act 
of  1892  named  the  counties,  and  the  act  of  1893  the  Towns, 
which  were  to  become  part  of  the  park,  but  the  act  of  1904  was 
the  first  to  describe  its  boundaries.  This  lengthy  description 
is  omitted  here,  for  it  is  merely  a  verbal  drawing  of  the  ''blue 
line"  as  it  appears  on  the  most  recent  maps. 

New  fire  legislation. 

As  a  result  of  the  fires  of  1903  the  Association  for  the  Pro- 
tection of  the  Adirondacks  secured  the  passage,  in  May,  of 
some  legislation  for  better  fire  protection.  The  new  law  cre- 
ated a  Chief  Fire-warden  who  had  power  to  appoint  other 
wardens  and  establish  an  extensive  system  of  patrol,  espe- 
cially along  the  railway  lines.  These  were  required  to  keep 
their  right  of  way  in  safer  condition  and  to  use  spark  screens 
on  their  locomotives.  These  changes  and  others  were  a  step 
in  the  right  direction,  but  they  were  not  radical  enough  to 
stand  the  test  of  the  adverse  fire  conditions  which  recurred 
in  1908. 

River  Improvement  Commission. 

The  River  Improvement  Commission  was  created  this  year, 
and  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commissioner  was  made  a 
member  of  it. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  217 

1904  (continued) 
Destruction  of  buildings  on  State  lands. 

A  law  was  passed  tins  year  forbidding  the  erection  of  any 
permanent  building  on  State  land,  and  authorizing  the  de- 
struction of  any  previously  erected  there.  The  work  of 
demolition  began  at  once  wherever  the  State  felt  sure  of  its 
title  to  the  land.  This  w^as  the  long-delayed  and  drastic  so- 
lution of  the  problem  created  by  the  leasing  of  State  lands 
prior  to  the  constitutional  prohibition  of  1894.  It  worked 
actual  hardship  and  seeming  injustice  to  those  who  had  built 
-in  good  faith,  but  their  number  was  not  large. 

Attack  on  Sec.  7,  Art  VII. 

The  year  brought  forth  the  usual  concurrent  resolution  to 
amend  Section  7  of  Article  VII.  This  time  the  amendment 
was  to  allow  the  removal  of  burned  timber  from  State  lands, 
and  the  sale  of  such  lands  outside  the  Adirondack  Park.  The 
latter  proposition  had  points  of  merit,  but  the  former  had 
points  of  danger,  and  as  the  two  were  interlocked,  concerted 
opposition  to  both  was  offered. 

1905 

No  report. 
For  annual  report  see  1906. 

State  takes  over  nurseries. 

The  State  took  over  the  Wawbeek  and  Axton  nurseries  of 
the  Cornell  School  of  Forestry.  Later  these  were  discon- 
tinued. 

Transplants. 

In  Essex  and  Franklin  counties  520,000  transplants  were  set 
out  on  State  land. 

A.  P.  A.  reports  to  governor  on  lumber  thefts. 

The  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks  fin- 
ished its  investigations  of  the  unlawful  removal  of  timber 
from  State  lands,  and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  laxity 


218  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1905  (continued) 

of  Commissioner  Middleton  and  of  Chief  Game-Protector 
Pond  was  largely  responsible  for  existing  conditions.  The 
association  laid  its  findings  before  Governor  Higgins,  who 
immediately  turned  them  over  to  Attorney-General  Mayer 
with  instructions  to  investigate  thoroughly  and  report.  The 
result  is  set  forth  in  the  association's  fifth  annual  Report, 
from  which  I  quote  the  following: 

As  the  official  investigation  progressed,  the  facts  already  gathered 
by  the  Association's  Assistant  Secretary  in  his  personal  visit  to  the 
woods  were  more  than  confirmed.  It  was  found  that  between 
15,000,000  and  16,000.000  board  feet  of  timber  had  been  removed  un- 
lawfully from  State  land  during  the  preceding  year  with  the  knowl- 
edge of  the  authorities  whose  duty  it  was  to  prevent  it,  and  that  it  was 
done  under  a  well-understood  system  of  friendly  cooperation  by  which 
the  trespassers  were  permitted  to  go  through  a  form  of  confessing 
judgment  and  paying  for  the  timber  at  a  rate  so  low  as  to  make  the 
transaction  profitable  to  the  trespassers.  Not  only  was  the  mandatory 
legal  penalty  of  $10  per  tree  not  exacted,  but  the  so-called  confessions 
of  judgment  for  the  larger  trespasses  were  made  before  justices  of 
the  peace  in  a  manner  not  allowed  by  law,  and  the  timber  was  removed 
from  State  land  in  direct  contravention  of  the  constitution  and  the 
opinion  of  the  attorney-general  given  to  the  Forest,  Fish,  and 
Game  Commissioner. 

James  S.  Whipple  succeeds  Middleton.  -^ 

On  April  28,  1905,  Attorney-General  Mayer  made  a  report  to  Gover- 
nor Higgins,  and  on  May  5,  Governor  Iliggins  appointed  James  S. 
"Whipple,  formerly  Chief  Clerk  of  the  Senate,  as  Commissioner  in 
place  of  Mr.  Middleton,  whose  term  had  expired  on  March  26. 

Protector  Pond  refuses  fo  resign. 

The  removal  of  Chief  Game  Protector  Pond  was  not  so  easily  accom- 
plished, for  the  reason  that  he  had  no  definite  term  of  office,  and  as 
a  Civil  War  veteran  he  invoked  the  protection  of  the  civil  service  law. 
As  he  refused  at  first  to  resign,  the  only  alternative  was  to  bring 
formal  charges  against  him. 

Pond  resigns;  J.  B.  Burnham  appointed. 

On  May  11,  the  Trustees  voted  to  present  charges  of  misconduct 
against  Major  Pond.     During  the  next  few  weeks  the  Association  ac- 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  219 

1905  (continued) 
cumulated  further  evidence,  and  formal  charges  were  drafted,  taken 
to  Albany  and  shown  informally  to  Commissioner  Whipple,  who  would 
be  the  official  to  hear  Pond  in  case  the  charges  were  pressed.  Without 
formally  filing  the  charges,  the  knowledge  that  the  Association  would 
press  them,  if  necessary,  had  the  desired  effect.  Major  Pond  offered 
his  resignation  and  it  was  accepted  by  Commissioner  Whipple,  August 
2,  1905,  to  take  effect  October  1.  Commissioner  Whipple  subsequently 
appointed  Mr.  J.  B.  Bumham  as  Chief  Game  Protector. 

Colonel  Fox  restored  to  power. 

Meanwhile,  the  forest  law  was  amended  by  the  Legislature  so  as 
to  restore  to  the  Superintendent  of  Forests  (Col.  William  F.  Fox)  his 
powers  as  the  real  superintendent  of  the  forests,  which  had  singularly 
been  transferred  to  the  Chief  Game  Protector  a  few  years  before. 

General  improvement. 

Since  then  the  Attorney-General  has  been  prosecuting  the  tres- 
passers rigorously;  the  old  system  of  timber  piracy  appears  to  be 
eft'ectively  broken  up ;  a  new  atmosphere  pervades  the  Forest,  Fish, 
and  Game  Department ;  and  the  administration  of  the  forests  appears 
to  be  on  a  healthier  basis  than  for  many  years. 

Petition  to  dam  streams. 

But  no  sooner  were  these  things  accomplished  than  others 
called  for  attention.  Petitions  were  lodged  with  the  River 
Improvement  Commission  (created  in  1904)  for  permission  to 
dam  the  Raquette,  Sacondaga,  and  Saranac  rivers,  on  the 
general  plea  that  regulation  of  these  streams  was  needed  as  a 
measure  of  health-protection.  Two  hearings  on  the  petition 
were  given  before  the  River  Commission  in  Albany,  and  the 
discussion  soon  centered  around  the  application  of  the  Paul 
Smith's  Electric  Light  and  Power  and  Railroad  Company  to 
build  a  dam  on  their  property  at  Franklin  Falls,  and  flood  ad- 
jacent State  land. 

Plea  of  necessity. 

Their  plea  was  based  on  the  undeniable  fact  that  the  village 
of  Saranac  Lake  sewered  into  the  Saranac  River,  and  then 
on  the  deniable  contention  that  the  decaying  deposits  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  at  low  water  constituted  a  serious  menace 


220  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1905  {continued) 

to  public  health.  The  altruistic  concern  of  the  Paul  Smith's 
Company  over  the  situation  was  such  that  it  offered  to  build 
a  dam  at  its  own  expense  to  avert  disaster,  and  then  to  sell 
light  and  power  to  the  communities  thus  saved  from  the 
ravages  of  pestilence. 

Opposition  by  Board  of  Trade. 

There  was  no  question,  of  course,  as  to  their  right  to  build 
a  dam  on  their  own  property,  but  their  right  to  flood  State 
land  as  a  consequence  was  a  very  vital  question.  This  right 
was  emphatically  denied  by  the  Forestry  Committee  of  the 
New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation  in  an  able  brief 
prepared  by  its  secretary,  Mr,  Gardner,  and  read  by  its  as- 
sistant secretary,  Mr.  McConnell,  before  the  River  Improve- 
ment Commission.  The  uncompromising  stand  was  taken 
that  the  flooding  of  State  lands  for  any  reason  would  con- 
stitute a  violation  of  Article  VII  Section  7  of  the  Constitu- 
tion. 

A.  P.  A.  dissents. 

The  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks  was 
also  represented  at  this  hearing,  but  it  dissented  from  the 
unyielding  position  taken  by  the  Board  of  Trade.  The  asso- 
ciation felt  that,  as  there  was  virtually  no  timber  of  value  on 
the  lands  in  question,  their  flooding  might,  in  this  particular 
instance,  be  permitted.  They  took  a  different  view  of  the 
matter  later  on,  however.     (See  under  1908.) 

Senator  Malby's  argument. 

There  was  a  second  hearing  before  the  River  Improvement 
Commission  at  which  Senator  Malby,  representing  the  Paul 
Smith's  interests,  read  a  brief  in  answer  to  the  one  which 
the  Board  of  Trade  had  submitted.  The  argument  used  was 
that  the  police  power  of  the  State — the  right  to  protect  health 
and  life — was  supreme  and  could  be  applied  when  ** necessary 
for  the  happiness  and  health  of  the  people,  whether  or  not  a 
constitutional  provision  seems  to  intervene.'^  Such  necessity 
was  claimed  to  exist  in  this  case.     The  commercial  side  of 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  221 

1905  {continued) 

the  petition  was  admitted,  but  it  was  treated  as  secondary 
and  incidental  to  the  altruistic  one. 

Mr.  Choate  renders  an  opinion. 

After  hearing  all  the  arguments  for  and  against  the  peti- 
tions, the  River  Improvement  Commission  decided  to  take 
no  immediate  action,  but  its  president,  Attorney-General 
Julius  M.  Mayer,  suggested  that  the  constitutional  question  in- 
volved be  submitted  to  Hon.  Joseph  H.  Choate  for  his  opinion. 
This  was  done,  and  the  commission,  the  Board  of  Trade,  and 
the  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks  agreed 
to  abide  by  Mr.  Choate 's  findings.  These  sustained  in  every 
respect  the  arguments  used  by  the  Board  of  Trade  and  Trans- 
portation, and,  as  a  result,  the  application  of  the  Paul  Smith's 
Company  was  denied  as  unconstitutional.  In  spite  of  this  the 
Paul  Smith's  Company  proceeded,  later  on,  to  build  the  dams 
in  question.     (See  under  1908.) 

1906 

Report  for  1904-5-6. 

The  report  for  this  year  includes  those  ior  1904  and  1905, 
and  their  routine  matter  takes  up  most  of  the  thick  volume, 
so  that  there  are  fewer  special  articles.  There  is  a  very  in- 
teresting one,  however,  on  the  "History  of  Adirondack 
Beaver, ' '  by  Harry  V.  Radford. 

Trees  set  out. 
In  Essex  and  Franklin  counties  548,000  trees  were  set  out. 

Experimental  Nursery. 

An  Experimental  Nursery  Station  of  four  acres  was  estab- 
lished at  Saranac  Inn  station,  in  connection  with  the  United 
States  Forest  Service. 

Appropriation  Bill  signed. 

A  bill,  introduced  at  the  request  of  the  Association  for  the 
Protection  of  the  Adirondacks  by  Senator  J.  P.  Allds,  appro- 


222  A  HISTOKY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

1906  {continued) 

priating  $400,000  for  land  purchases  was  signed  by  the  gov- 
ernor on  May  31st. 

Merritt-O  'Neil  Resolution. 

The  interests  that  had  been  defeated  the  previous  year  be- 
fore the  River  Improvement  Commission,  now  sought  the 
privilege  to  build  dams  by  securing  a  constitutional  amend- 
ment. To  this  end  they  jammed  through  the  Legislature,  in 
its  closing  hours  and  without  granting  a  public  hearing  that 
was  asked  for,  a  measure  known  as  the  "Merritt-O'Neil  Reso- 
lution." 

1907 

Report  deferred. 

For  report  see  year  1909. 

Trees  planted. 
In  Essex  and  Franklin  counties  150,000  trees  were  planted. 

Merritt-O'Neil  Resohdion  reintroduced. 

The  Merritt-O'Neil  Resolution  was  of  course  reintroduced 
in  this  year's  Legislature.  A  public  hearing  on  its  merits 
was  given  on  March  20th,  and  on  this  occasion  the  defenders 
of  the  forest  forced  the  admission  from  the  sponsors  of  the 
measure  that  they  were  financially  interested  in  its  passage. 

Merritt-O'Neil  Resolution  defeated. 

The  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation  joined 
with  the  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks 
in  this  fight,  and  they  invited  other  interested  organizations 
to  meet  with  them  in  a  council  of  war.  Over  twenty-five  rep- 
resentatives answered  the  call,  and  a  carefully  coordinated 
plan  of  opposition  was  mapped  out.  It  was  successful  in 
bringing  home  to  the  Legislature  the  strong  public  sentiment 
against  the  proposed  amendment,  and  that  body  failed  to  give 
it  the  second  approval  necessary  for  its  submission  to  the  peo- 
ple. 


LEGISLATIVE  QONTBOL  223 

1907  {continued) 
The  "Fuller  Law.'' 

An  important  measure,  known  as  the  ''Fuller  Law,"  was 
passed  this  year.  It  was  drafted  by  Mr.  Frank  S.  Gardner, 
Secretary  of  the  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transporta- 
tion, and  received  the  hearty  support  of  Governor  Hughes, 
who  sent  an  emergency  message  to  the  Legislature  in  its  be- 
half. Under  this  law  the  State  Water  Supply  Commission 
was  empowered  to  make  and  actually  made  the  most  thorough 
and  scientific  investigation  and  report  of  the  water-power  re- 
sources of  the  State.  The  original  act  was  supplemented  by 
appropriations  during  the  two  succeeding  years,  and  the  re- 
sult furnished  a  valuable  check  on  those  interests  who  sought 
control  of  the  water-powers  for  private  advantage. 

1908 

No  report. 
For  report  see  year  1909. 

Nursery  at  Lake  Clear. 

A  nursery  of  six  and  one  half  acres  was  established  at  Lake 
Clear. 

State  sells  trees  at  cost. 

The  appropriation  bill  for  this  year  contained  the  follow- 
ing clause:  ''For  establishing  additional  nurseries  for  the 
propagation  of  forest  trees  to  be  furnished  to  citizens  of  the 
State  at  cost,  etc."  This  experiment  met  with  marked  suc- 
cess, and  25,000  trees  were  sold  the  first  year. 

Worst  fires  since  1903. 

The  woods  this  year  suffered  again  from  fires  almost  as 
wide-spread  and  destructive  as  those  of  1903.  That  they  were 
not  quite  so  was  due  entirely  to  the  absence  of  high  winds, 
and  not  to  any  improvement  in  fire-fighting  conditions.  The 
summer  season  closed  ^vith  a  long  drought,  during  which  the 
fires  started  and  burned  till  snow  fell  in  the  autumn.  They 
burned  over  368,000  acres,  as  against  464,000  in  1903. 


224  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1908  (continued) 

Campaign  for  better  fire-protection. 

Realizing  that  a  few  more  fires  of  such  extent  would  wipe 
out  the  woods  completely,  the  Association  for  the  Protection 
of  the  Adirondacks  began  a  campaign  for  better  methods  of 
prevention.  In  this  it  sought  and  secured  the  hearty  co- 
operation of  Commissioner  Whipple  and  of  Public  Service 
Commissioner  Osborne,  whose  province  it  was  to  decide  on 
the  responsibility  of  railroads  in  starting  fires.  To  this  end 
he  made  a  personal  tour  of  inspection  in  October,  while  the 
forests  were  still  burning,  and  he  declared  that  he  had  seen 
nothing  so  depressing  since  his  visit  to  Martinique  after  the 
eruption  of  Mont  Pelee.  He  added,  moreover,  the  pertinent 
comment  that,  while  the  latter  disaster  was  beyond  control, 
the  desolation  in  the  Adirondacks  was  due  largely  to  the  stu- 
pidity of  man. 

Conference  on  better  fire  laws. 

As  a  result  of  this  inquiry  and  allied  activities  a  conference 
was  held  in  Commissioner  Whipple's  office  at  Albany,  on  De- 
cember 29th,  which  was  attended  by  about  fifty  representatives 
of  various  Adirondack  interests.  A  special  committee  was  ap- 
pointed to  embody  the  \dews  of  the  meeting  in  appropriate 
legislation,  and  the  following  gentlemen  were  named : 

Hon.  John  G.  Agar  of  New  York    (V-P't  A.  P.  A.),  Chairman 

Hon.  v.  P.  Abbott  of  Gouvemeur 

Frank  L.  Bell  of  Glen3  Falls 

James  S.  Jacobs  of  Tupper  Lake 

W.  Scott  Brown  of  Keene  Valley 

Dr.  Edward  Hagaman  Hall  of  New  York   (Sec'y  A.  P.  A.) 

This  committee  held  many  meetings  and  drafted  a  number 
of  excellent  fire-protection  amendments  to  the  Forest,  Fish, 
and  Game  Law,  which  were  passed  by  the  Legislature  the  fol- 
lowing year. 

Paul  Smith's  Company  foods  State  lands. 

The  Paul  Smith's  Electric  Light  and  Power  and  Railroad 
Company  completed  dams  for  power  purposes  at  Franklin 
Falls  and  Union  Falls  on  the  Saranac  River,  and  flooded  se- 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  225 

1908  (continued) 

veral  hundred  acres  of  State  land.  The  Association  for  the 
Protection  of  the  Adiroudacks  made  an  immediate  investiga- 
tion and  issued  the  result  in  an  illustrated  pamphlet  (No.  17, 
July  15, 1908,  22  pp. )  entitled :  ' '  Drowned  State  Lands  on  the 
Saranac  River. "  Asa  result  of  the  disclosures  it  contained, 
the  State  secured  a  temporary  injunction  against  the  Paul 
Smith's  Company,  compelling  it  to  draw  down  the  water  and 
restore  the  river  to  its  normal  condition.  Suit  was  also 
brought  to  recover  damages  and  make  the  injunction  perma- 
nent. 

1909 

Report  for  1907-8-9  last  of  large  quarto  volumes. 

The  report  for  this  year  includes  those  for  1907  and  1908. 
It  contains  no  special  articles,  and  is  the  last  of  the  large  and 
expensive  quarto  volumes  that  were  issued.  The  cost  of 
their  production  had  been  very  considerable,  and  it  was  to  re- 
duce it  that  the  expedient  of  delaying  and  combining  the  re- 
ports was  adopted.  But  this  plan  had  practical  drawbacks 
which  were  hardly  offset  by  the  beauty  of  the  books,  and  the 
Legislature  refused  to  supply  money  for  their  further  pubhca- 
tion.  The  complete  set  of  this  unique  series  comprises  ten 
volumes,  from  1895  to  1909  inclusive. 

Large  tree  sales. 

Tree  sales  by  the  State  amounted  to  179  separate  orders, 
aggregating  a  total  of  1,005,325  trees.  The  demand  this  year 
far  outran  the  supply. 

New  fire-control  system. 

As  a  result  of  the  passage  by  the  Legislature  of  the  recom- 
mendations made  by  the  Agar  Committee,  the  State  inaugur- 
ated for  the  first  time  an  intelligent,  comprehensive,  and  eflS- 
cient  system  of  fire  control,  with  emphasis  laid — where  it  al- 
ways should  have  been — on  prevention  and  early  detection. 

Observation  stations. 

The  great  advance  in  this  respect  was  due  to  the  establish- 


226         A  HISTOEY  OF  TPIE  ADIRONDACKS 
1909  (continued) 

ment  of  observation  stations  on  the  tops  of  mountains,  con- 
nected by  telephone  with  the  nearest  settlement.  The  watch- 
ers live  in  cabins  or  tents  near  their  stations,  and  are  con- 
tinuously on  duty  during  the  fire  season.  They  have  field- 
glasses  and  oriented  topographic  maps  of  the  visible  area, 
which  is  often  10{),0()0  acres  or  more.  As  many  as  fifteen  sta- 
tions were  erected  the  first  year,  and  by  1918  the  number  had 
increased  to  fifty-two.  The  earlier  ones  were  crude  plat- 
forms of  wood,  but  all  the  later  ones  are  substantial  steel 
towers  with  enclosed  shelters  at  the  top.  They  are,  moreover, 
equipped  with  such  modern  and  helpful  devices  as  the  Os- 
borne Fire  Finder. 

Other  important  features  of  the  new  law  were  as  follows : 

New  patrol  system. 

The  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commissioner  was  given  full 
power  to  organize  a  thorough  patrol  system.  The  work  form- 
erly done  by  fire-wardens  was  given  to  68  Regular  Patrolmen, 
paid  by  the  year,  and  to  109  Special  Patrolmen,  paid  when  on 
duty.  Town  Supervisors  were  made  members  of  the  patrol 
force  by  \drtue  of  the  office.  Five  Superintendents  of  Fire 
and  five  Inspectors  were  created,  all  subject  to  the  direction  of 
the  Superintendent  of  Forests. 

Railroad  regulations. 

Railroads  were  required  to  clear  their  right  of  way  of  in- 
flammable slash,  to  maintain  a  fire  patrol  along  their  lines,  and 
to  bum  oil  in  their  locomotives  at  stated  times  during  the  sum- 
mer season. 

Top-lopping  law. 

Lumbermen  were  required  to  lop  the  branches  from  con- 
iferous tree-tops  left  on  the  ground  after  lumbering. 

Governor's  prodamiation  power. 

The  governor  was  given  pow«r  to  forbid  by  proclamation, 
in  times  of  drought,  any  person  from  entering  upon  lands  of 
the  forest  preserve. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL 


227 


1909  (continued) 
Old  and'  New  systems  compared. 

These  and  many  minor  salutary  provisions  constituted  a 
fire-control  system  which  the  test  of  years  has  shown  to  be  re- 
markably efficient.  It.  has  consequently  been  altered  but  lit- 
tle, and  only  where  experience  has  indicated  possibilities  of 
improvement.  The  adequacy  of  the  new  system  as  compared 
with  the  utter  inadequacy  of  the  old,  can  best  be  shown  by  the 
following  table  and  chart,  comparing  years  in  which  the  un- 
favorable weather  conditions  were  very  similar,  although  the 
drought  of  1911  and  1913  was  not  as  protracted  as  in  1903  and 
1908. 

WORST  YEARS 


UNDER 

OLD   STSTEM 

UNDER  NEW   SYSTEM 

464,189  acres 

Loss 
$846,082 

Cost 
$153,764 

346,953  acres 

Loss 
$780,164 

Cost 
$178,991 

Loss 
$33,259 

Cost 

$19,714 

Loss 

$48,045 

Cost 

$41,479 

50,389  acres 

27,757  acres 

1903 


1908 


1911 


1913 


Recommendation  to  allow  flooding. 

On  February  1st  in  a  report  of  the  State  Water  Supply 
Commission  the  recommendation  was  made  that  Section  7 
of  Article  VII  be  so  amended  as  to  allow  up  to  20,000  acres 
of  State  land  to  be  flooded  for  water-storage  purposes. 

New  attack  on  Section  7,  Article  VII. 

On  February  17th  Hon.  G.  H.  Wood  of  Jefferson  County 
introduced  in  the  Assembly  a  concurrent  resolution  to  amend 
Section  7  of  Article  VII  so  as  to  permit  the  removal  and  sale 
of  fallen,  dead,  and  burned  timber,  and  the  cutting  and  sale 
of  matured  trees  on  State  lands  under  the  supervision  of  the 
Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commissioner.  Despite  vigorous 
outside  protest  this  resolution  was  passed  in  the  closing  days 
of  the  session.    It  was  reintroduced  in  the  Legislature  of  1911, 


228         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 
1909  (continued) 

but  was  defeated  largely  through  the  efforte  of  the  Board  of 
Trade  aud  Transportation. 

Death  of  Colonel  Fox. 

The  annual  report  for  this  year  refers  to  the  death  of  the 
Superintendent  of  Forests,  Colonel  William  F.  Fox,  and  gives 
an  interesting  sketch  of  his  career.  His  unusually  long  and 
commendable  service  with  the  State  as  guardian  of  its  woods, 
entitles  him  to  a  word  of  special  mention  here. 

WILLIAM  F.  FOX 

Colonel  Fox  died  on  June  16,  1909,  after  twenty-four  years 
of  continuous  service  under  the  varying  Forest  Commissions 
— a  record  equaled  by  no  other  Adirondack  forest  official. 
He  was  appointed  assistant  secretary  to  the  first  commission 
on  November  1,  1885.  He  was  later  made  Assistant  Forest 
Warden,  from  1888  to  1891,  when,  upon  the  creation  of  the 
Adirondack  Park,  he  was  made  Superintendent  of  Forests, 
a  position  which  he  held,  through  many  political  storms  and 
changes,  until  his  death. 

,  He  was  born  in  Ballston  Spa,  N.  Y.,  on  January  11,  1840, 
and  graduated  from  the  Engineering  Department  of  Union 
College  in  1860.  He  fought  \s^th  distinction  in  the  Civil  War, 
and  later  made  some  notable  contributions  to  its  history. 
His  "Chances  of  Being  Hit  in  Battle"  was  published  in  the 
"'Century  Magazine"  in  1888,  and  attracted  wide  interest  as 
a  novel  computation  of  hazards.  Ten  years  later  he  published 
"Regimental  Losses,"  which  is  still  considered  an  authorita- 
tive work.  This  was  followed  by  "New  York  at  Gettysburg" 
(three  volumes),  "Slocum  and  His  Men,"  and  a  Life  of  Gen- 
eral Green. 

Colonel  Fox  was  a  member  of  the  Chi  Psi  fraternity,  and 
at  one  time  its  president.  He  belonged  to  Dawson  Post  No. 
63  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic,  and  was  a  companion 
in  the  Military  Order  of  the  Loyal  Legion.  He  was  corre- 
sponding secretary  of  the  Society  of  the  Potomac ;  a  member 
of  the  New  York  Historical  Society,  of  the  American  Forestry 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  229 

1909  {continued) 
Association,    and    of    the    Society   of   American   Foresters. 

His  family  was  engaged  in  the  lumber  business,  and  his  early 
commercial  training  was  all  in  that  line.  This  he  supple- 
mented later  by  a  visit  to  Germany  and  a  brief  study  of  scien- 
tific forestry  methods  there.  From  1875  to  1882  he  held  the 
position  of  private  forester  for  the  Blossburg  Coal,  Mining, 
and  Eailroad  Company  of  Blossburg,  Pa.  In  1885  he  entered 
the  employ  of  New  York  State. 

At  the  time  he  was  one  of  the  few  experts  in  his  line,  and 
he  kept  adding  to  his  knowledge  by  constant  study  and  re- 
search, for  he  was  by  nature  a  student  and  investigator.  He 
was  a  sincere  lover  of  the  woods  and  an  honest  servant  of  the 
people.  He  worked  for  all  that  was  best  in  forest  methods, 
but  had  to  face  the  handicaps  of  public  apathy,  changing  ad- 
ministrations, and  shifting  policies.  He  was  from  the  first 
an  ardent  advocate  of  forest-preserve  purchases,  and  kept 
urging  the  State  to  buy  land  while  the  buying  was  cheap.  The 
beginning  of  reforestation  and  the  plan  of  selling  trees  to 
private  owners — which  proved  so  successful — were  of  his  de- 
vising. He  had  keen  foresight  and  sound  judgment  in  forest 
matters,  and  his  advice,  if  more  frequently  followed,  would 
have  often  saved  the  State  both  money  and  trouble.  He  was 
always  on  the  lookout  for  trained  assistants,  and  employed  the 
first  graduate  of  the  first  forestry  school  in  this  country — 
Clifford  R.  Pettis,  who  ultimately  became  his  successor  as 
Superintendent  of  Forests. 

The  sketch  of  Colonel  Fox  in  the  Forest  Commission  report 
gives  an  historical  review  of  the  Adirondack  situation,  and 
then  adds:  ''This  general  summary  of  the  development  of 
a  forest  preserve  and  a  forest  policy  in  this  State  has  been 
given  because  a  careful  examination  shows  it  largely  to  be  the 
work  of  Colonel  Fox.'* 

His  unbroken  association  with  State  forestry  from  the  be- 
ginning, and  his  habit  of  collecting  and  tabulating  statistics, 
made  him  a  storehouse  of  valuable  information.  His  knowl- 
edge, moreover,  was  not  only  of  trees ;  it  came  to  include  the 
topography  and  history  of  the  lands  on  which  they  grew.  He 
made  several  very  useful  maps  for  his  department,  and  the 


230  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1909  (continued) 

excellent  monograph  on  "Land  Grants  and  Patents  of  North- 
ern New  York,"  in  the  Forest  Commission  report  for  1893, 
was  from  his  pen.  He  did  much  of  the  educational  writing 
for  the  early  reports,  and  made  in  his  line  the  most  scholarly 
contributions  to  the  later  ones.  Chief  among  these  was  his 
''History  of  the  Lumber  Industry  in  New  York,"  to  which  ex- 
haustive compilation  I  have  already  called  attention  in  a 
preceding  chapter. 

His  immediate  successor  in  office  was  Professor  Austin 
Cary  of  Harvard  University,  who  w^as  followed  a  year  later 
by  Mr.  C.  R.  Pettis. 

1910 

Report  for  1910. 

The  sixteenth  annual  report  of  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game 
Commission  was  the  last  one  it  issued,  and  was  a  return  to 
an  octavo-sized  volume.  Outside  of  routine  matter  it  contains 
a  special  report  on  ''Forest  Conditions  of  Warren  County" 
and  a  similar  one  on  Oneida  County,  both  accompanied  by 
colored  maps. 

C.  R.  Pettis  appointed  Superintendent  of  Forests. 

Professor  Austin  Cary  resigned  as  Superintendent  of  For- 
ests, and  Mr.  C.  R.  Pettis  \vas  appointed  in  his  place  on  June 
1st.  He  had  been  Assistant  Superintendent  for  several  years 
under  Colonel  Fox,  who  had  taken  him  into  the  service  of  the 
State  on  April  15,  1902.  He  was  graduated  with  the  degree 
of  Forest  Engineer  from  the  Cornell  College  of  Forestry  in 
June,  1901,  and  was  immediately  offered  the  position  of  As- 
sistant Director  of  Grounds  at  Chautauqua,  N.  Y.  In  the 
meantime  Colonel  Fox  was  looking  for  a  forester,  and  Pro- 
fessor B.  E.  Femow  recommended  Mr.  Pettis.  His  first  work 
was  to  establish  the  forest  plantations  at  Lake  Clear  Junc- 
tion. The  following  year  he  established  the  first  State  Nur- 
sery at  Saranac  Inn,  and  there  developed  a  system  of  nursery 
practice  which  has  been  adopted  by  the  United  States  Forest 
Service  and  is  now  taught  in  all  forestry  schools.    His  work 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  231 

1910  (continued) 
as  superintendent  has  been  notably  progressive  and  efficient, 
and  he  has  proved  a  worthy  successor  to  Colonel  Fox,  whom 
he  bids  fair  to  rival  even  in  length  of  service. 

An  important  event  of  this  year  was  the  resignation  of 
Commissioner  Whipple,  under  circumstances  calling  for  a 
brief  review. 

Hughes  investigation. 

Early  in  the  legislative  session  of  1910  Senator  Conger 
made  charges  of  bribery  against  Senator  AUds,  who  had  been 
connected  with  former  purchases  of  land  by  the  State.  This 
led  Governor  Hughes  to  make  an  investigation.  On  February 
16th  he  appointed  Mr.  Roger  P.  Clark  and  Mr.  H.  Leroy 
Austin  special  commissioners  to  investigate  the  management 
and  affairs  of  the  Forest  Purchasing  Board  and  the  Forest, 
Fish,  and  Game  Commission.  The  investigation  went  back 
over  a  period  of  about  fifteen  years. 

Commissioner  Whipple. 

The  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commissioner  at  the  time  of 
the  investigation  was  James  S.  Whipple  of  Salamanca,  who 
had  held  office  since  May  5.  1905.  His  predecessor  was  De 
Witt  C.  Middleton.  who  had  resigned  after  the  disclosures  of 
lumber-thieving  under  his  administration. 

Result  of  investigation. 

On  October  1,  1910,  the  investigators  handed  Governor 
Hughes  their  report,  covering  425  typewritten  pages.  Two 
thirds  of  the  report  was  devoted  to  transactions  of  the  Forest 
Purchasing  Board,  and  it  was  sho^vn  that  land  originally  of- 
fered to  the  State  for  $1.50  an  acre  had  been  bought  later  for 
$6.50,  and  many  similar  instances  were  cited.  Commissioner 
Whipple  was  a  member  of  this  board. 

Whipple  criticized. 

As  to  the  department  under  his  special  care,  it  received  both 
commendation  and  censure.  He  was  criticized  for  a  lack  of 
system  that  resulted  in  extravagance,  and  for  inattention  to 


232  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1910  (continued) 

his  executive  duties  that  left  his  subordinates  too  free  a  hand. 
But  no  charge  of  dishonesty  was  made  against  him  or  any 
of  the  Purchasing  Board. 

Mr.  Whipple  resigns.    Mr.  Austin  appointed. 

After  reading  a  copy  of  the  report  Commissioner  Whipple, 
in  a  very  dignified  letter,  offered  his  resignation.  On  Octo- 
ber 4th  Governor  Hughes  appointed  Mr.  H.  Le  Roy  Austin, 
one  of  the  investigating  committee,  to  succeed  Mr.  Whipple. 
Mr.  Austin  accepted  the  position  only  temporarily,  until  a  fit- 
ting and  permanent  appointee  could  be  found. 

Merritt  resolution. 

A  concurrent  resolution  "relating  to  the  disposition  and 
use  of  lands  in  the  Forest  Preserve"  was  introduced  by  As- 
semblyman Merritt  on  February  23d.  It  was  a  water-stor- 
age measure  designed  ultimately  to  benefit  private  interests, 
and  therefore  met  Avith  the  usual  outside  opposition.  Despite 
this  its  politically  powerful  sponsor  was  able  to  force  its  pas- 
sage through  the  Assembly,  and  at  the  same  time  managed 
to  obstruct  all  other  Adirondack  legislation. 

Policy  of  obstruction. 

The  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation  and  the 
Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks  had  drafted 
or  concurred  in  several  carefully  prepared  measures  permit- 
ting reasonable  water-storage,  necessary  roads,  leasing  of 
camp  sites,  removal  of  dead  timber,  and  the  sale  of  useless 
lands  outside  the  "blue  line."  The  friends  of  the  forests 
thought  the  time  had  come  when  concise  concessions  along 
these  lines  might  safely  be  made,  but  they  found  their  willing- 
ness to  make  them  obstructed  by  a  political  dog-in-the-manager 
attitude.  They  were  told  in  effect,  if  not  in  words,  that  no 
Adirondack  measures  would  be  allowed  to  pass  until  a  gen- 
tleman who  admitted  he  was  financially  interested  in  Adiron- 
dack water-power,  had  secured  such  legislation  as  he  desired 
for  himself  and  his  friends.  This  policy  defeated  its  own 
ends,  however. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  233 

1910  (continued) 
Oovernor  Hughes  suggests  bond  issue. 

In  his  message  to  the  Legislature  on  January  5th  Governor 
Hughes  advocated  a  permanent  and  progressive  policy  of 
extending  the  Forest  Preserve  by  issuing  bonds  instead  of 
adhering  to  the  uncertain  and  inadequate  method  of  appropria- 
tions. The  suggestion,  like  all  that  he  made,  was  a  most  ex- 
cellent one,  but  was  not  allowed  to  bear  fruit  till  1916. 

Governor  Hughes,  it  should  be  noted,  was  one  of  the  most 
unswerving  friends  of  the  forests  who  ever  sat  in  the  guber- 
natorial chair.  He  admittedly  knew  little  about  the  intrica- 
cies of  the  Adirondack  problem  when  he  first  took  office,  but 
he  soon  made  himself  master  of  the  situation. 

Early  in  his  first  term  he  was  asked  by  the  Albany  corre- 
spondents to  state  his  views  on  forest  matters.  In  answer 
he  showed  them  a  long  letter  he  had  received  from  the  New 
York  Board  of  Trade,  making  recommendations  which,  he 
said,  he  would  use  as  the  basis  for  his  own.  This  he  did,  sup- 
plementing the  suggestions  of  the  letter  by  study  and  investi- 
gation, and  evolving  an  enlightened  and  constructive  forest 
policy  which  he  pursued  undeviatingly  throughout  his  two 
terms  of  office.  He  courted  the  advice  of  the  two  civic  bodies 
devoted  to  Adirondack  protection,  and  did  all  that  a  governor 
could  do  to  improve  the  forest  administration. 

After  announcing  his  retirement  from  the  governorship 
to  accept  a  seat  in  the  United  States  Supreme  Court,  he  spent 
much  time  in  drafting  a  model  bill  for  the  development  of  the 
water-powers  of  the  State.  In  this  work  he  requested  the 
assistance  of  Mr.  Frank  S.  Gardner,  who  made  nine  trips  to 
Albany  and  held  conferences  with  the  governor  which  on 
several  occasions  lasted  for  over  three  hours. 

The  result  was  a  most  excellent  bill,  which  received  the 
unanimous  approval  of  the  State  Water  Supply  Commission. 
It  was  introduced  in  the  Legislature,  but  was  blocked  by  polit- 
ical interests,  and  failed  to  pass.  This  was  foreseen  by  the 
governor.  His  main  object,  he  said,  was  to  put  in  form  and 
leave  on  record  a  bill  that  would  serve  as  a  model  for  his  suc- 
cessor and  for  future  consideration. 


234  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1910  (continued) 

This  bill  is  printed  in  full  in  the  fifth  annual  report  of  the 
State  Water  Supply  Commission  for  1910,  pp.  117-128. 

1911 

First  report  of  Conservation  Commission. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  the  first  report  of  the  Conserva- 
tion Commission,  which  replaced  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game 
Commission.  The  report  is  in  two  volumes,  matching  in  size 
and  appearance  the  report  of  1910.  It  is  devoted  entirely  to 
the  broadened  and  subdivided  activities  of  the  new  Commis- 
sion. The  Adirondacks  come  mainly  under  the  ''Division  of 
Lands  and  Forests."  The  remainder  of  Volume  1  is  devoted 
to  fish  and  game  matters  throughout  the  State.  The  second 
volume,  the  thicker  of  the  two,  is  given  up  entirely  to  the 
** Division  of  Inland  Waters,"  and  is  full  of  tables  and  statis- 
tical data. 

Message  of  Governor  Dix. 

The  idea  leading  to  the  new  Conservation  Commission  was 
first  suggested  in  the  inaugural  message  of  Governor  Dix, 
in  which  he  said : 

As  to  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commission  and  the  State  Water 
Supply  Commission,  under  these  heads  I  wish  to  call  your  attention 
to  the  very  important  question  of  the  conservation  and  proper  de- 
velopment of  the  natural  resources  of  the  State. 

He  then  dwells  on  the  interrelation  of  woods  and  waters, 
and  concludes: 

**I  recommend  to  you  for  these  reasons  the  consolidation  of 
these  departments  into  one  body." 

Conservation  Laiv. 

Proceeding  on  this  suggestion,  and  carrying  the  idea  of 
consolidation  still  further,  the  Legislature  enacted  Chapter 
647  of  the  Laws  of  1911,  known  as  the  Conservation  Law,  and 
covering  fifty-four  pages  of  the  statute  book.  It  went  into 
effect  on  July  21st,  and  Governor  Dix  put  his  signature  to  it 
"as  a  first  and  long  step  toward  true  conservation." 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  235 

1911  (continued) 

It  created  a  State  Conservation  Commission  of  three  mem- 
bers, appointed  by  the  governor,  with  salaries  of  $10,000  per 
annum.     The  first  three  were : 

George  E.  Van  Kennen,  Chairman,  of  Ogdensburg,  until  Dec.  1,  1916 
James  VV.  Fleming  of  Troy,  until  Dec.  1,  1914 

John  D.  Moore  of  New  York,  until  Dec  1,  1912 

To  this  commission  were  transferred  all  the  powers  of  the 
Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commission,  the  Forest  Purchasing 
Board,  the  State  Water  Supply  Commission,  and  the  Com- 
missioners of  Water  Power  on  the  Black  River. 

The  activities  of  the  commission  were  subdivided  as  fol- 
lows : 

Division  of  Lands  and  Forests,  having  charge  of  the  admin- 
istration of  all  laws  relating  to  tree-culture  and  reforestation, 
and  the  management  of  parks,  reservations,  and  lands  of  the 
State. 

Division  of  Inland  Waters,  having  charge  of  water- storage, 
hydraulic  development,  water-supply,  river  improvement,  ir- 
rigation, and  navigation  outside  of  the  canals. 

Division  of  Fish  and  Game,  having  charge  of  the  protection 
and  propagation  of  fish  and  game,  including  shell-fish. 

These  three  Divisions  were  to  be  headed  by  three  deputy 
commissioners  appointed  by  the  commission.  The  further 
subdivisions  of  administration  will  be  found  on  the  accom- 
panying chart  prepared  by  the  Conservation  Commission. 

Thomas  Mott  Osborne  appointed  commissioner. 

On  January  16th  temporary  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Com- 
missioner Austin  was  succeeded  by  Thomas  Mott  Osborne 
of  Auburn,  the  well-known  philanthropist  who  served  for  a 
while  as  the  Warden  of  Sing  Sing  Prison.  His  appointment 
raised  the  highest  hopes  for  the  welfare  of  the  Adirondacks. 
It  was  understood  that  he  would  be  intrusted  with  the  drafting 
of  the  proposed  new  Conservation  Law,  and  that  he  was  des- 
tined for  the  office  of  Conservation  Commissioner.  All  these 
hopes  were  disappointed,  however.  An  unfortunate  disagree- 
ment with  the  governor  on  some  questions  of  forest  policy, 


236  A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

1911  (continued) 

and  a  breakdown  in  health,  caused  Mr.  Osborne  to  resign. 
He  was  succeeded  by  James  W.  Fleming  of  Troy,  who  held  of- 
fice till  the  Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commission  was  abolished 
in  July. 

Forest  fires. 

A  repetition  of  the  long  droughts  of  1903  and  1908  occurred 
in  the  spring  of  this  year,  and  many  forest  fires  were  the  re- 
sult. They  furnished  the  first  severe  test  for  the  new  patrol 
and  observation  system,  and  it  showed  an  enormous  advance 
over  the  old  one.  The  damage  and  loss  compared  with  former 
dry  years  was  negligible.     (See  fire-chart  under  1909.) 

Fires  from  lightning. 

A  peculiar  feature  of  the  fires  of  this  year  was  the  very  large 
number  caused  by  lightning.  Those  reported  as  due  to  this 
agency  in  1908  were  nine ;  in  1909  only  eight ;  and  in  1910  only 
eleven ;  but  in  1911  the  total  suddenly  jumped  to  sixty-five. 

1912 

Report  for  1912. 

The  second  report  of  the  Conservation  Commission  is  one 
volume.  Outside  of  the  routine  matter  it  contains  a  discus- 
sion of  the  '* top-lopping"  law,  with  illustrations. 

Top-lopping  law. 

The  penalty  attaching  to  the  law  was  repealed  this  year,  so 
that  to  all  intents  and  purposes  it  became  inoperative. 

New  definition  of  park. 

Chapter  444  of  the  laws  of  1912  also  amended  the  definition 
of  the  Adirondack  Park,  making  it  include  all  lands  within  the 
"blue  line,"  whereas  it  formerly  included  State  lands  only. 

Paul  Smith's  Company  wins  suit. 

The  suit  brought  in  1908  against  the  Paul  Smithes  Electric 
Light  and  Power  and  Railroad  Company  for  flooding  State 
lands  by  the  building  of  dams  at  Franklin  Falls  and  Union 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  237 

1912  (continued) 

Falls,  was  decided  in  favor  of  the  company.  Judge  Kellogg, 
of  the  Supreme  Court  at  Plattsburg,  held  that  the  defendant 
had  a  prescriptive  right  to  flood  the  lands  in  question,  and  the 
attorney-general  took  no  appeal  from  the  decision. 

1913 

Report  for  1913. 

The  third  report  of  the  Conservation  Commission  contains, 
outside  of  routine  matter,  a  lengthy  and  very  interesting 
article  on  fire-fighting  and  prevention,  with  many  illustra- 
tions. 

Burd  Amendment. 

This  year  saw  the  first  modification  of  Section  7  of  Article 
VII  of  the  Constitution  in  the  ratification  at  the  polls  of  what 
was  known  as  the  Burd  Amendment,  allowing  three  per  cent, 
of  forest-preserve  lands  to  be  flooded  for  water-storage  pur- 
poses. 

Attacks  repulsed  for  nineteen  years. 

For  nineteen  years  the  ''Gibraltar  of  Forestry,"  owing  to 
the  constant  vigilance  of  its  garrison,  had  successfully 
thwarted  the  most  insidious  and  incessant  attacks  of  its  ene- 
mies. What  seemed  their  final  victory  was  in  reality  but 
a  voluntary  concession  on  the  part  of  the  defenders.  Had 
the  proposed  amendment  not  received  their  approval  and  sup- 
port, it  is  safe  to  say  that  it  would  have  met  the  fate  of  its 
predecessors.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  Burd  Amendment  was 
drafted  jointly  by  the  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the 
Adirondacks  and  the  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation. 

Review  of  situation. 

The  warrant  for  concession  lay  in  changes  which  the  passing 
years  had  brought.  The  first  attackers  of  the  constitutional 
amendment  were  mainly  the  lumber  interests,  but  they  met 
with  such  effective  opposition  that  they  finally  gave  up  fight- 
ing for  the  unattainable.    In  the  meantime,  the  lust  for  water- 


238         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 
1913  (continued) 

power  began  to  replace  the  greed  for  timber.  As  the  genera- 
tion, and  especially  the  long-distance  transmission,  of  elec- 
trical energy  developed,  the  water-powers  of  the  Adirondacks, 
formerly  too  remote  to  be  of  more  than  local  value,  became 
choice  plums  for  a  new  breed  of  grabbers.  From  1904  to  the 
present  time  the  attempts  to  break  through  the  barrier  of  Sec- 
tion 7  Article  VII  have  been  aimed  chiefly  at  the  water  behind 
it.  But  all  the  bills  put  forward  were  sooner  or  later  defeated, 
and  the  water-power  interests  became  so  discouraged  that  they 
were  willing  to  accept  any  compromise  to  which  their  most 
watchful  opponents,  the  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Trans- 
portation and  the  Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adi- 
rondacks, would  consent. 

Genesis  of  Burd  Amendment. 

These  organizations,  it  should  be  noted,  were  not  blind  to 
the  need  and  benefit  of  water-storage  in  general,  and  had  gone 
on  record  as  being  in  favor  of  it  in  certain  cases  and  under 
certain  restrictions ;  but  they  were  unalterably  opposed  to  the 
unnecessary  and  indiscriminate  flooding  of  the  Adirondack 
Park  for  the  benefit  of  private  interests.  A  bill  of  this  nature 
was  being  pushed  by  Assemblyman  E.  A.  Merritt,  Jr.,  and 
the  danger  of  its  passing  was  so  great  that  the  above  organ- 
izations called  a  public  meeting  to  consider  concerted  action 
for  its  defeat.  Invitations  were  sent  out  to  thirty-seven  civic 
bodies,  most  of  which  responded  to  the  call.  As  a  result  of 
this  mass  meeting  and  of  later  conferences  held  in  Albany,  the 
Merritt  Amendment  was  withdrawn  and  all  the  interested 
parties,  including  Mr.  Merritt  himself,  agreed  to  accept  and 
support  a  compromise  measure,  known  as  the  Burd  Amend- 
ment, which  read  as  follows;  italics  being  used  for  the  new 
portion  of  the  amendment : 

BURD  AMEND]\IENT 

The  lands  of  the  State  now  owned  or  hereafter  acquired  consti- 
tutinpr  the  Forest  Preserve  as  now  fixed  by  law  shall  be  forever  kept 
as  wild  forest  land.  They  shall  not  be  leased,  sold  or  exchanged,  or 
be  taken  by  any  corporation,  public  or  private,  nor  shall  the  timber 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  239 

1913  {continued) 
thereon  be  sold,  removed  or  destroyed.  But  the  Legislature  may  hy 
general  laws  provide  for  the  use  of  not  exceeding  three  per  centum 
of  such  lands  for  the  construction  and  maiyitenance  of  reservoirs  for 
municipal  water  supply,  for  the  canals  of  the  State  and  to  regulate  the 
flow  of  streams.  Such  reservoirs  shall  he  constructed,  owned  and  con- 
trolled hy  the  State,  hut  such  work  shall  not  he  undertaken  until  after 
the  houndaries  and  high  flow  lines  thereof  shall  have  heen  accurately 
surveyed  and  fixed,  and  after  puhlic  notice,  hearing  and  determination 
that  such  lands  are  required  for  such  public  use.  The  expense  of  any 
such  improvements  shall  he  apportioned  on  the  puhlic  and  private 
property  and  municipalities  henefited  to  the  extent  of  the  henefits 
received.  Any  such  reservoir  shall  always  be  operated  hy  the  State 
and  the  Legislature  shall  provide  for  a  charge  upon  property  and 
municipalities  henefited  for  a  reasonable  return  to  the  State  upon  the 
value  of  the  rights  and  property  of  the  State  used  and  the  services 
of  the  State  rendered,  which  shall  he  fixed  for  terms  not  exceeding 
ten  years  and  he  readjustahle  at  the  end  of  any  term.  Unsanitary 
conditions  shall  not  he  created  or  continued  by  any  such  public  works. 
A  violation  of  any  of  the  pfovisions  of  this  section  may  be  restrained 
at  the  suit  of  the  people,  or,  with  the  consent  of  the  Supreme  Court  in 
Appellate  Division,  on  notice  to  the  Attorney -General  at  the  suit  of 
any  citizen. 

This  was  carried  at  the  polls  by  a  vote  of  486,264  in  favor; 
and  of  only  187,290  against. 

Smith-Gardner  Bill  relating  to  Burd  Amendment. 

In  order  to  take  advantage  of  the  new  amendment  a  con- 
ference was  called  in  the  rooms  of  the  Board  of  Trade  and 
Transportation  to  consider  the  framing  of  a  proper  law  for 
reservoir-construction  and  river-regulation.  Hon.  Edward 
N.  Smith  of  Watertow^l  and  Mr.  Frank  S.  Gardner  were  ap- 
pointed a  committee  to  draft  such  a  measure.  They  submit- 
ted one  that  met  with  the  approval  of  the  conferees,  and 
which  was  introduced  in  the  Legislature  the  following  year. 
It  failed  to  pass,  however,  because  Governor  Glynn  refused 
to  approve  it  unless  another  bill,  considered  objectionable  by 
the  advocates  of  the  former,  were  passed  at  the  same  time. 
The  Smith-Gardner  Bill  was  passed  later,  however.  See  un- 
der 1916. 


240         A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1913  {continued) 

Top-lopping  penalty  restored. 

Through  efforts  of  the  Association  for  the  Protection  of 
the  Adirondacks  the  penalty  for  violating  the  top-lopping  law, 
repealed  in  1912,  was  restored.  The  association  also  urged 
Governor  Glynn  to  recommend  a  bond  issue  for  forest-pre- 
serve purchases,  but  he  was  disinclined  to  do  so. 

Death  of  Henry  E.  Rowland. 

The  association  suffered  a  severe  loss  this  year  in  the  death 
of  its  president  Hon.  Henry  E.  Howland,  who  died  on  No- 
vember 10th.  He  had  been  the  association's  only  president 
from  its  permanent  organization  in  January,  1902,  until  April, 
1912,  and  was  honorary  president  from  then  until  the  time  of 
his  death.    He  was  succeeded  by  Mr.  John  G.  Agar. 

1914 

Report  for  1914, 

The  report  for  this  year  is  the  last  bound  volume  issued  by 
the  Conserv^ation  Commission.  It  contains  the  usual  routine 
matter,  but  nothing  else  of  special  interest. 

Railroads  must  continue  burning  oil. 

The  Adirondack  railroads  petitioned  the  Public  Service 
Commission  to  be  relieved  from  the  necessity  of  using  oil  for 
fuel  during  the  fire  season.  The  pros  and  cons  of  the  question 
were  thoroughly  threshed  out,  and  the  petition  denied. 

Trespasses  at  low  eb&. 

Timber-stealing — politely  called  trespass — reached  the 
lowest  figure  in  the  history  of  the  Forest  Preserve.  The 
known  depredations  amounted  to  less  than  $200. 

Pat.  McCahe  appointed  Commissioner. 

The  sensation  of  the  year  in  forest  circles  was  sprung  in 
December,  when  Governor  Glynn  appointed  Patrick  MoCabe 
of  Albany  to  succeed  James  W.  Fleming  as  one  of  the  three 
Conservation  Commissioners.    It  was  a  thing  to  make  the 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  241 

1914  (continued) 
judicious  weep,  and  the  disparity  between  the  man  and  the 
office  was  in  this  case  so  glaring  that  even  the  injudicious  were 
incHned  to  blink.  Men  high  up  in  the  councils  of  the  Demo- 
cratic party  protested  against  the  appointment,  but  in  vain. 
Mr.  McCabe  wanted  that  particular  job  with  its  snug  salary, 
and  the  governor  was  as  clay  in  the  hands  of  the  plotter.  The 
comments  which  this  appointment  called  forth  in  the  press  can 
be  gaged  by  quoting  one  of  the  least  severe  of  them  from  a 
paper  that  shared  the  politics  of  the  governor.  The  **New 
York  World"  said  in  part: 

McCabe  is  the  boss  of  Albany.  He  has  been  one  of  Murphy's 
staunches!  supporters  since  the  latter  assumed  the  leadership  of  Tam- 
many Hall.  It  was  McCabe  who  took  the  initiative  in  bringing  about 
the  impeachment  of  Mr.  Sulzer.  He  is  the  most  practical  of  prac- 
tical politicians,  a  spoilsman  and  reactionary  of  the  most  pronounced 
type,  ready  to  stand  for  anything  and  everything  that  Murphy  de- 
crees. 

This  indefensible  appointment  became  a  direct  influence  in 
bringing  about  changes  in  the  Conservation  Law  that  legis- 
lated Mr.  McCabe  out  of  oflBce  the  following  year. 

1915 

Report  for  1915. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  a  paper-bound  pamphlet  of  only 
forty-three  pages,  and  contains  nothing  but  routine  matter. 

Governor  Whitman  recommends  changes  in  Conservation  Law. 
In  his  inaugural  message  Governor  Whitman  urged  certain 
changes  in  the  Conservation  Law,  the  most  important  of  which 
were  summed  up  as  follows: 

First.     A  single-headed  commission. 

Second.  A  strict  requirement  in  the  law  that  the  administrative 
head  of  each  department  should  be  a  trained  expert. 

Third,  A  strict  requirement  in  the  law  that  all  of  the  important 
subordinates  shall  be  trained  experts,  appointed  in  accordance  with 
the  provisions  of  the  civil  service  law. 


242  A  HISTORY  OF  THE  ADIEONDACKS 

1915  (continued) 

New  Laiv, 

Virtually  all  of  the  governor's  recommendations  had  re- 
ceived the  approval  of  the  various  organizations  interested 
in  the  Adirondacks.  They  were  put  into  a  bill  which  was 
passed  by  the  Legislature  and  signed  by  the  governor  on 
April  16th.    It  became  Chapter  318  of  the  Laws  of  1915. 

Single-headed  commission. 

It  provided  for  a  single  Conservation  Commissioner  to  be 
appointed  by  the  governor  for  a  period  of  six  years,  at  a 
salary  of  $8,000  a  year.  The  commissioner  had  power  to  ap- 
point a  Deputy  Commissioner,  also  a  Superintendent  of  For- 
ests, who  would  become  Chief  of  the  Divison  of  Lands  and 
Forests ;  a  Chief  Game  Protector,  who  would  become  Chief  of 
the  Division  of  Fish  and  Game;  a  Division  Engineer,  who 
would  become  Chief  of  the  Division  of  Waters,  and  various 
other  subordinates. 

George  D.  Pratt  appointed. 

On  April  19th  Governor  Whitman  appointed  George  D. 
Pratt  of  New  York  Conservation  Commissioner.  The  selec- 
tion was  an  excellent  one.  Mr.  Pratt,  formerly  president 
of  the  Camp  Fire  Club  of  America,  was  eminently  fitted  for 
the  position  which,  as  the  possessor  of  an  independent  fortune, 
he  accepted  solely  out  of  interest  for  the  work  it  involved. 
He  brought  to  it,  moreover,  not  only  the  enthusiasm  of  the 
idealist  but  the  practical  ability  of  the  experienced  executive. 
This  conjunction  of  advantages  has  given  the  woods  up  to  the 
present  time  (1920)  the  most  progressive  and  unpolitical  ad- 
ministration they  have  ever  enjoyed. 

Educational  talks  and  pictures. 

Commissioner  Pratt  was  a  firm  believer  in  the  value  of  edu- 
cational propaganda,  and  inaugurated  a  series  of  informa- 
tive talks  given  by  himself,  or  members  of  his  staff,  on  various 
phases  of  conservation  work.  To  illustrate  these  talks  he 
used  motion  pictures,  often  taken  by  himself.    One  of  the 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTEOL  243 

1915  {continued) 
most  interesting  films  rehearsed  the  drama  of  a  forest  fire 
from  start  to  finish.  It  showed  the  carelessly  thrown  match, 
the  discovery  of  smoke  from  the  observation  station,  the  locat- 
ing of  the  fire,  the  telephoning,  the  assembling  of  the  fighters, 
and  then  the  fighting.  This  method  of  popular  instruction 
has  been  a  potent  factor  in  arousing  public  interest  as  never 
before  in  the  commission's  activities. 

Squatter  problem  solved. 

Among  the  notable  advances  of  the  Pratt  administration  has 
been  its  handling  of  the  '  *  squatter ' '  problem.  For  years  there 
have  been  hundreds  of  cases  of  illegal  occupany  of  State  lands, 
of  which  the  authorities  were  fully  aware,  but  the  situation  has 
been  complicated  by  title  uncertainty,  political  influence,  and 
purely  human  sympathy.  The  result  has  been  a  Gordian  knot, 
which  no  commissioner  made  any  serious  attempt  to  cut  until 
it  reached  Mr.  Pratt.  He,  however,  by  using  both  firmness 
and  tact,  succeeded  in  eliminating  some  seven  hundred  cases 
out  of  a  heritage  of  over  nine  hundred. 

Constitutional  Convention. 

Another  Constitutional  Convention  was  held  in  the  summer 
of  this  year.  Conservation  and  the  modifying  of  Section  7 
Article  VII  had  a  large  share  in  its  deliberations.  No  less 
than  forty-five  amendments,  bearing  directly  or  indirectly 
on  these  subjects,  were  introduced.  Finally,  after  much  pro- 
tracted and  often  heated  debate,  a  conservation  article  was 
agreed  upon.  Opinions  concerning  it  differed  widely.  It  was 
strongly  opposed  by  the  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Trans- 
portation, but  had  the  hearty  support  of  the  Association  for 
the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks.  Public  sentiment  con- 
cerning it  cannot  be  accurately  gaged  for  it  was  not  voted 
upon  as  a  separate  proposition,  but  merely  as  part  of  the  Ke- 
vised  Constitution  as  a  whole.  This  was  defeated  at  the 
November  election  by  893,635  negative  to  388,966  affirmative 
votes,  making  a  majority  against  the  proposed  revision  of 
504,669.  Out  of  six  questions  submitted  to  the  electorate  at 
this  time,  only  one,  concerning  the  Barge  Canal,  was  approved. 


244  A  mSTOEY  OF  THE  ADIKONDACKS 

1916 

Report  for  1916. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  a  paper-bound  pamphlet  of  sixty- 
seven  pages,  containing  nothing  but  the  usual  routine  and  sta- 
tistical matter. 

Bond  issue. 

On  May  16th  Governor  "VMiitman  signed  a  bill  providing  for 
a  referendum  to  the  people  of  a  proposed  bond  issue  of 
$10,000,000  for  ''the  acquisition  of  lands  for  State  Park  pur- 
poses." The  proceeds  of  $2,500,000  of  the  bonds  were  to  go 
to  the  extension  of  the  Palisades  Interstate  Park,  and  the  pro- 
ceeds of  the  remaining  $7,500,000  to  the  extension  of  the  forest 
preserve.  This  was  the  first  money  made  available  for  the 
purpose  since  the  last  appropriation  in  1909.  Governor 
Hughes  had  first  urged  a  bond  issue  in  1910,  and  the  friends 
of  forest-extension  had  made  repeated  attempts  to  secure  the 
necessary  legislation,  but  without  success  until  Governor 
Whitman  came  into  oflBce. 

Vote  on  bond  issue. 

Even  when  the  Legislature  had  been  induced  to  act,  it  was 
found  that  outside  opposition  was  likely  to  develop  from  a 
misunderstanding  of  the  proposition.  In  order  to  put  the 
matter  in  the  proper  light  an  extensive  campaign  of  education 
was  undertaken  by  the  Conservation  Commission  and  inter- 
ested organizations.  The  result  was  most  gratifying,  for  the 
proposition  was  approved  by  the  people  by  a  majority  of 
150,496.  Analysis  of  the  vote  showed  that  New  York  City 
virtually  carried  the  referendum,  and,  what  is  still  more  sur- 
prising, that  not  a  single  Adirondack  county  voted  in  favor 
of  it. 

Elk  liberated. 

In  April  of  this  year  a  carload  of  elk  was  shipped  from 
Yellowstone  Park  and  liberated  in  the  Adirondacks.  The  ex- 
pense was  borne  mainly  by  the  New  York  State  Order  of  Elks, 
although  the  Legislature  appropriated  $500  for  the  cost  of 
transportation. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  245 

1916  {continued) 
Wearing  of  elk  teeth  condetnned. 

This  was  the  most  receut  effort  to  restore  these  animals 
to  the  North  Woods,  and  those  back  of  the  movement,  includ- 
ing the  Conservation  Commission,  believe  that  if  a  sufficient 
number  of  elk  can  be  imported,  their  ultimate  repatriation  is 
virtually  assured.  The  Order  of  Elks  is  so  eager  to  see  this 
brought  about  that  it  has  condemned  the  wearing  of  elk  teeth 
as  insignia,  and  has  thus  removed  one  inducement  to  slaughter 
the  animals. 

Elk  near  Long  Lake. 

The  elk  released  by  Mr.  Whitney  some  fifteen  years  before 
this  were  thought  to  have  entirely  disappeared,  but  the  Con- 
servation Commission  announced  the  presence  in  1915  of  a 
herd  seen  in  the  vicinity  of  Long  Lake,  which  would  indicate 
that  the  descendants  of  the  earlier  importations  were  not  quite 
extinct. 

Saratoga  Springs  placed  under  Conservation  Commission. 

A  bill  was  passed  this  year  placing  Saratoga  Springs  under 
the  control  of  the  Conservation  Commission,  as  a  Fourth  Main 
Division  of  its  activities. 

Smith-Gardner  Bill  becomes  Machold  Law. 

The  Smith-Gardner  Bill  (see  1913,  Burd  Amendment), 
under  the  name  of  the  Machold  Law,  was  introduced  in  the 
Legislature  of  1915,  and  passed.  But  it  had  been  so  amended 
and  emasculated  in  committee  as  to  be  of  little  value.  In  spite 
of  this  it  was  considered  better  than  nothing,  and  Governor 
Whitman  was  urged  to  sign  it,  which  he  did. 

Machold  Law  amended,  hut  World  War  delays  operation. 

In  1916  Mr.  Frank  S.  Gardner  drafted  a  bill  making  impor- 
tant changes  and  improvements  in  the  Machold  Law,  and  this 
amending  bill  was  passed  as  Chapter  584  of  the  Laws  of  1916. 
The  way  was  thus  satisfactorily  prepared  at  last  for  making 
use  of  the  privilege  conferred  by  the  Burd  Amendment  of 


248  A  HISTOKY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1918  (continued) 
Report  for  1918. 

The  report  for  this  year  is  a  paper-bound  pamphlet  of  203 
pages,  thicker  than  the  preceding  ones  and  containing  more 
of  general  interest.  It  opens  with  a  review  of  "Conservation 
during  the  War,"  and  calls  attention  to  the  number  of  em- 
ployees of  the  Conservation  Commission  that  served  in  the 
forestry  regiments. 

Supplementary  water-power  pamphlet. 

The  commission  also  issued  a  supplementary  pamphlet  of 
forty-five  pages,  giving  a  brief  summary  of  the  water-power 
resources  of  the  State,  and  showing  on  a  colored  map  the  pro- 
posed reservoir  sites  in  red.  As  these  are  mostly  (all  but 
three)  in  the  Adirondack  region,  I  give  that  portion  of  the 
map  which  shows  them,  and  a  table  showing  the  amount  of 
land  to  be  flooded  in  the  forest  preserve.  The  report  claims 
that  31,000  acres  is  all  that  **\\ill  be  required  for  practically 
complete  development  of  the  water  storage  possibilities  of  the 
region."  This  is  less  than  two  per  cent,  of  the  total  area  of 
the  preserve,  and  the  Burd  Amendment  of  1913  allowed  the 
use  of  three  per  cent,  if  necessary.  The  adequacy  of  this 
amendment  is  therefore  confirmed,  and  the  attitude  of  those 
who  opposed  the  indiscriminate  flood  of  State  lands  is  fully 
justified. 

The  report,  how^ever,  calls  attention  to  the  fact  *Hhat  no 
provision  has  yet  been  made  for  the  development  of  water 
power  on  State  lands,  and  that  further  amendment  to  the 
Constitution  will  be  necessary  to  that  end." 

Saranac  Lake — Old  Forge  Highway. 

This  year  saw  the  second  modification  of  Section  7  of  Article 
VII  (the  first  being  the  Burd  Amendment  of  1913).  The  1918 
amendment  provided  for  a  much  needed  road  improvement  as 
follows : 

Nothing  contained  in  this  section  shall  prevent  the  State  from  con- 
structing a  State  Highway  from  Saranac  Lake  in  Franklin  County 
to  Long  Lake  in  Hamilton  County  and  thence  to  Old  Forge  in  Herki- 
mer County  by  way  of  Blue  Mountain  Lake  and  Raquette  Lake. 


FOLDOUT 


n 


FOLDOUT 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  249 

1918  (continued) 
This  amendment  met  with  very  general  approval  and  was 
carried  at  the  November  elections  by  a  vote  of  609,103  to 
299,899. 

A  glance  at  any  road-map  will  show  the  need  of  such  a 
measure.  There  was  no  connecting  link  between  the  good- 
roads  system  of  the  western  and  eastern  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains.    This  amendment  made  such  a  connection  possible. 

Private  funds  to  help  purchase  State  lands. 

This  year  there  occurred  the  first  tender  of  private  funds  to 
iielp  the  State  buy  valuable  lands  for  the  Forest  Preserve. 
The  tract  involved  had  been  approved  for  purchase  by  the 
commissioners  of  the  Land  Office,  and  comprised  1,120  acres 
upon  the  slopes  of  Mackenzie  and  Saddleback  mountains,  be- 
tween Lake  Placid  and  Saranac  Lake.  The  owners  of  the 
property  were  the  J.  &  J.  Rogers  Co.,  the  International  Paper 
Co.,  and  the  Champlain  Realty  Co.  In  1917  the  International 
Paper  Co.  began  cutting  on  the  slopes  toward  Lake  Placid. 
The  prospect  of  the  denudation  of  this  beautiful  mountainside, 
with  the  attendant  dangers  of  fire  from  the  lumber  slash, 
aroused  the  residents  of  the  surrounding  country;  and  the 
Shore  Owners'  Association  of  Lake  Placid  (of  which  Prof. 
E.  R.  A.  Seligman  is  president)  and  the  Association  for  the 
Protection  of  the  Adirondacks  became  active  in  urging  the 
acquisition  of  the  land  by  the  State.  The  International  Paper 
Co.  being  asked  to  suspend  operations  until  the  State  authori- 
ties could  be  approached  on  the  subject,  acted  in  a  spirit  of 
friendly  cooperation  and  stopped  cutting;  and  the  Conserva- 
tion Commissioner  aided  with  his  sympathetic  advice.  It  ap- 
peared, however,  that  the  dense  stand  of  virgin  spruce  upon 
the  property  gave  it  a  higher  value  than  Commissioner  Pratt 
felt  that  the  State  was  justified  in  paying.  In  these  circum- 
stances, the  Shore  Owners'  Association  offered  to  the  State 
the  sum  of  $30,000  as  a  contribution  toward  the  purchase  price, 
and  with  this  aid,  Commissioner  Pratt  recommended  and  the 
Commissioners  of  the  Land  Office  in  December,  1918,  -voted 
that  the  land  be  appropriated  by  the  State,  the  price  per  ^cre 
to  be  determined  by  the  Court  of  Claims. 


250         A  HISTOKY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1919    (continued) 
Report  for  1919. 

The  ninth  annual  report  of  the  Conservation  Commission  is 
a  paper-bound  volume  of  250  pages,  and  many  illustrations. 

Registration  of  guides. 

A  new  feature  to  which  it  calls  attention  is  the  registration 
of  guides.  A  law  passed  this  year  authorized  the  commission 
to  maintain  a  register  of  persons  competent  to  engage  in  the 
business  of  guiding,  and  to  furnish  approved  appli(?ants  with 
a  license  and  distinguishing  badge.  The  law  is  not  compul- 
sory, and  no  guide  is  obliged  to  register,  but  by  so  doing  he 
gains  official  standing  and  his  name  is  printed  and  widely 
distributed  through  the  recreation  circulars  sent  out  by  the 
Division  of  Lands  and  Forests.  At  the  time  of  the  writing 
of  the  report  1 76  guides  had  registered,  and  applications  were 
coming  in  rapidly. 

Educatiofial  propaganda. 

That  part  of  the  report  which  treats  of  the  educational 
activities  of  the  Conservation  Commission  is  of  such  value  and 
interest  that  I  quote  it  here  in  full : 

With  a  full  realization  that  in  the  last  analysis  all  eonservation  is 
based  upon  the  cooperation  of  the  public,  the  Commission  has  given 
uninterrupted  attention  to  its  educational  work  throughout  the  past 
year.  This  work,  whose  object  is  to  arouse  people  at  large  to  a  cor- 
rect conservation  viewpoint,  and  to  mould  their  minds  in  conservation 
matters,  consists  of  as  wide  dissemination  as  possible  of  information 
relative  to  conservation  and  the  Conservation  Commission,  accom- 
plished through  the  medium  of  the  written  word,  of  the  spoken  word, 
and  of  pictures. 

News  articles. 

A  large  number  of  news  articles  for  the  press,  and  of  special  illus- 
trated articles  for  magazines  and  Sunday  editions  of  the  newspapers, 
have  been  prepared,  every  one  of  which  has  carried  a  definite  conserva- 
tion message.  The  system  maintained  by  the  Commission  for  keeping 
account  of  the  results  of  work  of  this  kind  shows  that  its  conservation 
articles  were  printed  and  reprinted  throughout  the  State  3,432  times 
during  the  year  1919.     The  extent  to  which  these  articles  are  read  is 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  251 

1919  {continued) 
amply  proved  in  the  case  of  those  which  call  for  communication  with 
the  C'ommission— a  deluge  of  letters  being  the  usual  result  of  the  pub- 
lication of  such  an  article. 

"The  Conservationist." 

The  Commission's  illustrated  monthly  magazine,  "The  Conserva- 
tionist," has  been  published  regularly  during  the  year.  A  special 
campaign  was  carried  on  for  the  purpose  of  increasing  the  number  of 
subscribers,  with  the  result  that  the  subscription  roll  has  been  more 
than  doubled. 

** Violations  of  the  Conservation  Law.*' 

"Wide  demand  by  the  newspapers  and  others  for  the  Commission's 
monthly  statement  of  "Violations  of  the  Conservation  Law,"  has 
necessitated  an  increase  in  the  edition.  This  publication  serves  the 
double  purpose  of.  showing  just  what  the  Commission  is  accomplish- 
ing along  these  lines,  and  also  of  giving  publicity  to  the  names  of  the 
law  breakers.  This,  in  itself,  has  been  found  to  have  an  excellent 
educational  value,  as  there  are  doubtless  many  persons  who  are  de- 
terred from  transgressing  the  law  by  the  knowledge  that  their  names 
would  be  spread  abroad  in  the  light  of  day.  "This  publication  is 
worth  five  protectors  in  my  district,"  said  a  certain  sportsman  re- 
cently, and  the  same  sentiment  has  been  expressed  over  all  parts  of 
the  State. 

Lectures. 

With  the  close  of  the  war  an  increased  demand  for  lectures  was 
immediately  noticeable.  In  fact  the  number  of  requests  for  the  Com- 
mission's lectures  is  now  becoming  so  great  that  it  is  impossible  to 
accede  to  all  invitations.  Dnrinu:  1919,  95  lectures  have  been  given 
in  all  parts  of  the  State,  with  a  speaker  from  the  Commission.  This 
is  an  increase  of  60  per  cent,  over  1918,  when  58  lectures  were  given. 
As  but  few  lectures  are  given  during  the  summer  months,  it  will  be 
seen  that  during  the  lecture  season  the  actual  number  delivered  aver- 
aged more  than  two  a  week. 

Children  and  grown-ups. 

On  two  occasions  it  was  possible  to  arrange  a  series  of  lectures  in 
one  section  on  successive  dates.  A  motor  truck  was  employed  to  con- 
vey the  outfit  from  one  center  to  another,  in  this  way  making  possible, 
in  some  instances,  three  lectures  in  one  day.     It  is  also  becoming  a 


252  A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

1919  (continued) 

not  uncommon  practice  for  centers  in  which  an  evening  lecture  for 
grown-ups  has  been  scheduled,  to  request  an  afternoon  lecture  on  the 
same  day  for  children.  Occasionally  the  auditorium  of  a  high  school 
has  twice  been  filled  for  successive  lectures  to  young  people  during  the 
afternoon,  in  advance  of  a  lecture  to  an  adult  audience  in  the  evening. 

Personal  contact. 

One  of  the  main  benefits  derived  from  the  lectures  is  the  personal 
contact  of  representatives  of  the  Commission  with  the  varied  types  of 
audiences  that  are  gathered  together  at  the  different  centers.  The 
lectures  have  been  given  by  many  different  men  in  the  Commission, 
each  man  speaking,  as  far  as  possible,  upon  the  subjects  that  come 
within  his  own  particular  sphere.  At  every  such  meeting,  members 
of  the  audience  are  encouraged  to  ask  questions  and  to  clear  up  in 
their  own  minds  matters  which  may  have  been  a  source  of  misunder- 
standing. Thus,  as  a  result  of  a  better  comprehension  of  what  the 
Conservation  Commission  is,  and  what  it  is  doing,  its  aims  and  ideals 
are  spread  abroad  and  a  healthy  spirit  of  cooperation  is  fostered. 

Record  of  audiences. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  year  a  system  was  inaugurated  of  keeping 
a  record  of  audiences  at  each  lecture.  The  total  of  these  figures  shows 
that  21,570  persons  were  reached  at  the  different  lectures.  The  size 
of  audiences  varied  from  15  to  1,500,  although  the  average  was 
about  225. 

Films  and  slides. 

In  addition  to  the  lectures  that  have  been  given  with  a  speaker,  the 
Commission's  films  and  slides  have  many  times  been  sent  to  points 
within  the  State,  and  also  to  other  states,  without  a  speaker.  Certain 
of  the  conservation  films,  which  were  in  use  in  the  military  camps 
during  the  war,  have  not  cea-sed  their  usefulness  since  the  war  ended, 
but  are  now  going  the  rounds  of  large  manufacturing  centers  and  be- 
ing used  in  connection  with  the  welfare  work  of  the  plants.  In  one 
week  these  films  have  been  shown  in  factories  where  as  many  as  80,000 
persons  are  employed. 

Large  stock  of  pictures. 

Considerable  additions  to  the  Commission's  file  of  photographs, 
motion  picture  films  and  slides  have  been  made  during  the  year.  An 
excellent  new  reel  of  animal  subjects  has  been  prepared  which  is  now 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  253 

121d  (continued) 
being  used  at  many  of  the  lectures.  Another  new  reel  of  bird  life 
scenes  is  also  proving  very  popular  and  instructive.  The  Commis- 
sion's stock  of  pictures  is  now  so  comprehensive  that  when  it  is  neces- 
sary to  schedule  lectures  by  different  speakers  on  the  same  evening, 
there  is  ample  illustrative  material  at  hand,  and  the  necessity  for 
duplication  in  visiting  a  center  a  second  time  is  also  obviated. 

Killing  of  does  allowed. 

This  year  saw  the  passage  of  a  rather  surprising  hunting- 
law  allo\\4ng  the  shooting  of  does.  Heretofore  the  existing 
''buck  law"  permitted  the  taking  of  two  deer  with  horns  not 
less  than  three  inches  long.  The  new  law,  known  as  the 
Everett  Bill,  allowed  the  killing  of  one  deer  of  either  sex. 

The  measure  had  many  advocates,  but  aroused  much 
weighty  opposition  and  wide-spread  discussion.  The  gover- 
nor gave  a  public  hearing  on  the  bill  before  signing  it.  This 
conference  was  largely  attended,  and  the  pros  and  cons  of  each 
side  were  exhaustively  set  forth.  The  supporters  of  the 
measure  honestly  believed  it  would  lessen  the  number  of  does 
illegally  killed  under  the  "buck  law."  This  contention  could 
be  disproved  only  by  actual  test,  and  this  the  governor  decided 
to  make.  In  signing  the  bill,  he  added  a  memorandum  which 
closed  as  follows : 

'*It  is  therefore  approved,  as  a  test,  so  that  it  may  be  determined 
from  actual  experience  during  the  next  hunting  season  as  to  whether 
the  existing  law  or  the  measure  now  under  consideration  actually  tends 
to  the  greater  preservation  of  the  wild  deer  in  our  forests." 

The  test  was  made  during  the  hunting-season  of  1919,  and 
the  result  left  no  doubt  in  any  open  mind.  The  slaughter  of 
does  was  pitifully  large,  and  the  Conservation  Commission  re- 
ports indicated  that  more  bucks  were  killed  than  in  a  ''buck- 
law"  year. 

1920 

Annual  report. 

The  tenth  annual  report  of  the  Conservation  Commission 
will  appear  too  late  for  comment  here. 


254         A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIKONDACKS 

1920  (continued) 
"Buck  law"  reenacted. 

The  wide-spread  revulsion  of  feeling  against  the  legalized 
killing  of  does,  after  the  hunting-season  of  1919,  resulted  in  a 
recommendation  from  Governor  Smith  that  the  "buck  law"  be 
reenacted.  Assemblyman  Thayer  introduced  such  a  measure 
and  it  was  promptly  passed  and  signed.  It  allows  the  killing 
of  one  buck  only,  having  horns  at  least  three  inches  long,  and 
curtails  the  hunting-season  in  the  Adirondacks  from  six  to 
four  weeks,  making  it  from  October  15th  to  November  15th. 

Second  appropriation  from  bond  issue. 

The  first  $2,500,000  appropriated  by  the  Legislature  for  the 
enlargement  of  the  Forest  Preserve,  according  to  the  bond 
issue  of  $7,500,000  approved  in  1916,  having  been  expended 
or  pledged,  a  bill  was  introduced  in  the  Legislature  on  March 
25th,  by  Senator  Marshall,  and  by  Assemblyman  Thayer,  ap- 
propriating $2,500,000  more  for  this  purpose.  The  bill  was 
passed  and  became  Chapter  681  of  the  Laws  of  1920. 

Annual  attack  on  Constitution. 

This  year  the  annual  attempt  to  amend  Section  7  of  Article 
Vll  of  the  Constitution  took  the  form  of  a  concurrent  resolu- 
tion introduced  in  the  Senate  on  April  2d  by  Mr.  Ferris.  It 
includes  in  the  purposes  for  which  the  Legislature  may  by  law 
provide  for  the  use  of  three  per  cent,  of  the  forest  preserve 
area  provision  for  "the  development  of  water  power  and  for 
rights  of  way  for  electric  transmission  lines,  all  of  which  are 
hereby  declared  to  be  public  uses."  It  also  provides  that 
"any  such  water  power  may  be  leased  for  terms  of  not  exceed- 
ing ten  years." 

The  resolution  was  considered  by  many  less  objectionable 
in  principle  than  in  its  ambiguity  of  phrasing,  and  the  Associa- 
tion for  the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks  sought  to  have  it 
more  carefully  redrafted.  The  attempt  failed,  however,  and 
the  resolution  was  passed  in  its  unsatisfactory  form.  It  can- 
not become  effective,  of  course,  unless  passed  again  by  the 
Legislature  of  1921  or  1922,  and  ratified  by  the  people  at  a 
general  election. 


LEGISLATIVE  CONTROL  255 

1920  {continued) 

The  struggle  of  the  future. 

In  conclusion  it  should  be  said  that  attacks  on  Section  7  of 
Article  VII  bid  fair  to  be  more  persistent,  and  perhaps  more 
successful  than  ever.  The  scarcity  of  lumber,  pulp-wood,  and 
of  newsprint  has  caused  some  of  the  New  York  papers  to  start 
an  educational  campaign  for  a  more  productive  forest  policy. 
The  movement  has  the  support  of  some  well-known  men.  The 
plea  is  made  that  the  "bad  days"  in  the  Adirondacks  are 
over,  and  that  the  time  has  come  to  open  them  to  scientific  cut- 
ting and  replanting — which  is  true  conservation.  The  justice 
and  wisdom  of  the  theory  no  one  will  deny,  and  popular  senti- 
ment is  undoubtedly  inclining  more  and  more  to  give  it  a  trial. 
It  seems  highly  probable,  therefore,  that  the  forest  struggle 
of  the  future  will  center  around  the  safeguards  of  such  a  trial, 
rather  than  in  unyielding  opposition  to  it. 

LIST  OF  APPROPRIATIONS 

FOB  THE 

PURCHASE  OF  LANDS 

IN    THE 

FOREST  PRESERVE 

1890 $      25,000 

1895 600,000 

1897 1,000,000 

1898 500,000 

1899 300,000 

1900 250,000 

1904 250,000 

1906    400,000 

1907 500,000 

1909 200,000 

A  referendum  approved  by  the  people  in  1916  provided  that 
the  Legislature  might,  from  time  to  time,  authorize  the  issu- 
ance of  bonds  totaling  not  more  than  $7,500,000.  In  the  spring 
of  1917,  $2,500,000  of  this  amount  was  made  available,  and 
another  $2,500,000  was  authorized  in  1920. 


256         A  HISTOEY  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS 


TABLE  OF  FOREST  PRESERVE  LANDS  i 

Date  Acres 

1885  

May  18,  1886  681,374 

1887  

Dec.  31,  1888  '803,164 

1889  

1890  

1891  731,674 
Dec.  31,  1892  676,738 

1893  

1894  731,459 


Jan.  20,  1897  801,473 

Sep.  30,  1898  852,392 

Dec.  31,  1899  1,109,140 

Dec.  31,  1900  1,290,987 

Mar.  23,  1901  1,306,327 

Jan.  1,  1902  1,325,851 

Jan.  1,  1903  1,305,532 

Jan.  1,  1904  

Jan.     1,  1905  1,306,700 

Jan.     1,  1906  1,347,280 

Jan.     1,  1907  1,415,775 

Jan.     1,  1908  1,438,999 

Jan.     1,  1909  1,481,998 

Jan.     1,  1910  1,530,.559 

Jan.     1,  1911  1.530,783 

Jan.     1,  1912  1,531,648 

Jan.     1,  1913  1,53*),I81 

Jan.     1,  1914  1,713,697 

Jan.     1,  1915  1,710,501 

Jan.     1,  1916  1,702,506 

Jan.     1,  1917  1,701,894 

Jan.     1,  1918  1,702,136 

Jan.     1,  1919  1,721,598 

1  This  table  is  taken  from  the  Eighteenth  Annual  Report  of  the  Association  for 
the  Protection  of  the  Adirondacks.  It  was  compiled  from  official  sources  and 
verified   by  Mr.   A.    B.   Strough,   Land   Clerk   of  the   Conservation    Commission. 

The  diminishing  totals  of  some  of  the  early  years  are  due  to  lands  redeemed 
or  otherwise  lost  by  the  State. 


APPENDIX  A 

INDIAN  GRANT  TO  TOTTEN  AND  CROSSFIELD 

To  All  People  to  whome  these  presents  shall  come  Greeting  Know 
Ye  that  we  Hendrick  alias  Tayahansara,  Lourance  alias  Agguragies, 
Hans  alias  Canadajaure,  &  Hans  Krine  alias  Onagoodhoge,  Native 
Indians  of  the  Mohock  Castle  send  Greeting,  whereas,  Joseph  Totten 
and  Stephen  Crossfield  and  others  of  his  majes.ty's  Subjects  their 
Associates  did  lately  petition  the  Right  Honorable  John  Earle  of  Dun- 
more  Captain  General  &  Governor  in  chief  in  and  over  the  province 
of  New  York  and  the  territories  depending  thereon  in  America,  Chan- 
cellor &  Vice  Admiral  of  the  same  in  Council  setting  forth,  among 
other  things,  in  substance  that  by  his  most  Gracious  Majestys  Royal 
proclamation  given  at  the  Council  of  St.  James's  the  Seventh  day  of 
October  in  the  third  Year  of  the  Reign  reciting  that  whereas  great 
Frauds  and  abuses  had  been  committed  in  purchasing  Lands  of  the 
Indians  to  the  great  prejudice  of  his  Majestys  Interests  and  to  the 
great  dissatisfaction  of  the  said  Indians,  his  said  Majesty  by  and  with 
the  Advice  of  his  privy  Council  did  thereby  strictly  enjoin  and  re- 
quire that  no  private  person  do  presume  to  purchase  of  the  Native 
Indian  proprietors  any  Lands  not  ceded  to  or  purchased  by  his 
Majesty  within  those  parts  of  his  Majestys  Colonies  where  he  has 
thought  proper  to  allow  of  Settlements  but  that  if  at  any  time  any  of 
the  said  Indians  should  be  inclined  to  dispose  of  the  said  Lands  the 
said  should  be  purchased  by  his  Majestys  Governor  or  Commander 
in  Chief  of  the  said  Colonies  respectively  within  which  they  shall 
be  and  also  setting  forth  in  Substance  that  there  is  a  certain  un- 
patented Tract  of  Land  lying  and  being  on  Sagondago  or  the  West 
branch  of  Hudsons  River  beginning  at  the  N.  Wt.  Corner  of  John 
Bergen's  Petition  &  runs  N.  30  Wt.  until  a  line  coming  west  10  miles 
north  of  Crown  Point  shall  intersect  it,  thence  East  to  the  north  East 
branch  of  Hudsons  River,  thence  down  the  same  to  a  Tract  of  Land 
petitioned  for  by  Edward  &  Ebenezer  Jessup  thence  S.  60  Wt.  to  the 
place  of  beginning  containing,  by  estimation,  800,000  Acres  which 
Tract  had  never  been  ceded  to  or  purchased  by  his  Majesty  or  his 
Royal  projenetors  and  predecessors  but  doth  still  remain  Occupied 
by  the  Native  Indians  of  the  Mohock  Castle,  and  also  setting  forth 
our  willingness  to  dispose  of  our  Native  Indian  Rights  in  favor  of 
the  Said  Petitioners  and  thai'-  Associates  and  our  unwillingness  to 

257 


258  APPENDICES 

make  a  conveyance  of  the  Said  Tract  of  Land  in  favor  of  any  other 
Person  whatsoever  &  that  we  the  said  Indians  did  then  (as  we  now  do) 
stand  ready  to  convey  the  said  Tract  of  Land  in  manner  directed 
by  the  said  royal  proclamation  provided  that  the  said  Petitioners  & 
their  Associates  may  be  preferred  to  all  other  of  his  Majestys  Sub- 
jects in  a  Grant  of  the  same,  and  that  his  Excellency  would  be  pleased 
at  their  Expense  to  make  such  purchase  as  aforesaid,  and  that  they 
and  their  Associates  might  thereupon  be  favored  with  a  Grant  of  the 
said  Tract  of  Land  under  the  Quit  Rents  and  upon  the  Terms  and 
Conditions  prescribed  by  his  Majestys  Instructions  all  which  Allega- 
tions and  Suggestions  in  the  said  Petition  we  do  hereby  Acknowledge 
and  Declare  to  be  true.  Now  Therefore  Know  Ye  that  we  the  said 
Indians  for  and  in  behalf  of  ourselves  and  our  Nation  at  a  publick 
Meeting  or  Assembly  with  his  Excellency  William  Tryon,  Esquire, 
his  Majestys  Captain  General  &  Commander  in  Chief  of  the  province 
of  New  York  &c.  &c.  &c.  at  Johnson  Hall  pursuant  to  his  ^Majestys 
Royal  Proclamation  aforesaid  do  now  declare  our  intentions  and  in- 
clinations to  dispose  of  the  said  Tract  of  Land  above  described  in  the 
Comities  of  Tryon  and  Albany  in  favor  of  the  said  Petitioners  and 
their  Associates  and  accordingly  by  these  presents  at  the  said  publick 
Meeting  and  Assembly  held  for  the  purpose  with  the  Assistance  of 
John  Butler  Es(}uire  Interpreter  to  us  well  known  do  for  and  in  Con- 
sideration of  the  Sum  of  Eleven  Hundred  and  thirty-five  Pounds 
lawful  Money  of  New  York  to  us  in  hand  paid  by  the  said  Petitioners 
and  the  further  sum  of  five  Shillings  like  lawful  Money  to  us  in  hand 
paid  by  his  said  Excellency'  in  behalf  of  his  most  Sacred  Majesty 
George  the  third  King  of  Great  Britain,  France  and  Ireland,  de- 
fender of  the  faith  &c.  the  receipt  whereof  we  do  hereby  confess  and 
acknowledge  and  thereof  and  therefrom  and  of  and  from  every  part 
and  parcel  thereof  we  do  fully  and  freely  &  absolutely  release  Ex- 
onerate and  forever  discharge  his  said  Majesty,  his  Heirs,  Successors 
and  Assigns  &  the  said  Petitioners  &  their  Assigns,  their  Executors 
Adiministrators  and  Assigns  forever  by  these  presents  and  also  in 
order  to  enable  the  said  Petitioners  and  their  Associates  to  obtain 
his  Majestys  Grant  in  fee  simple  for  all  the  said  Tract  of  Land  above 
described  within  the  limits  and  bounds  hereinbefore  mentioned  as 
fully  and  as  effectually  as  if  the  same  were  herein  more  particularly 
&  exactly  described  Have  Granted,  Bargained,  Sold  aliend,  released, 
Conveyed  infeoffed,  ceded.  Disposed  of  Surrendered  &  confirmed  and 
by  these  presents  do  fully  freely  and  absolutely  grant  Bargain,  Sell, 
Alien  release,  Convey,  infeoff.  Cede  dispose  of  Surrender  and  Con- 
firm unto  his  said  Majesty  King  George  the  third,  his  Heirs,  Sue- 


APPENDICES  259 

cessors  and  Assigns  forever  all  and  singular  the  Tract  &  Tracts,  parcel 
&  parcels,  Quantities  and  Quantities  of  Land  be  the  same  more  or  less 
within  the  General  Boundaries  and  Limits  above  mentioned,  Contained 
and  Comprehended  And  Also  all  and  singular  the  Trees,  Woods,  Un- 
derwoods, Eivers,  Streams,  Ponds,  Creeks,  Rivulets,  Brooks,  Runs  and 
Streams  of  water.  Waters,  Water-Courses,  profits,  Comodities,  Ad- 
vantages, Emoluments,  privileges,  Hereditaments  and  Appurtenances 
to  all  and  singular  the  said  Lands,  Tracts  or  parcels  of  Land  or  any 
and  every  part  and  parcel  Thereof  with  the  appurtances,  thereunto 
belonging  or  in  any  wise  appertaining  and  the  reversion  and  rever- 
sions, remainder  &  remainders,  rents,  Issues  and  profits  of  all  and 
singular  the  said  Tracts  and  parcels  of  Land  and  every  part  and 
parcel  thereof  and  also  all  the  Estate,  Right,  Title,  Interest  property 
Claim  and  Demand  Avhatsoever  whether  native  legal  or  Equitable, 
of  us  the  said  Indians,  and  each  and  every  of  us  of  in  or  to  the  said 
Lands  Tracts  or  parcels  of  lands  and  any  and  every  part  and  parcel 
thereof  hereby  meant,  mentioned  or  intended  to  be  hereby  Granted 
bargained  Sold,  Aliened,  Released,  Conveyed,  Enfeoffed,  Ceded,  Dis- 
posed of,  Surrendered  and  Confirmed  with  their  and  every  of  their 
Rights,  Members  and  Appurtances  unto  his  said  Majesty  King 
George  the  third,  his  Heirs,  Successors  and  Assigns  forever  In  Wit- 
ness Whereof  w^e  the  said  Indians  in  behalf  of  ourselves  and  Our 
Nation  have  hereunto  set  our  Hands  and  Seals  in  the  presence  of  his 
said  Excellency  and  of  the  other  persons  Subscribing  as  witness  here- 
unto at  the  aforesaid  publick  jMeeting  or  Assembly  held  for  that  pur- 
pose at  Johnson  Hall  this  15th  day  of  July  in  the  twelfth  Year  of  his 
said  ]\Iajestys  Reign  and  in  the  Year  of  Our  Lord  one  thousand  seven 
hundred  &  Seventy  two. 

Seai>ed  and  Delivered  Hendricks      (Mark) 

in  the  presence  of  us,  Abrams     (Mark) 

Pat.  Daly  Agwhrraeghje 

John  Butler.  Johans  Crim 

Received  on  the  day  and  Year  above  written  of  the  within  William 
Tryon  Esquire  the  sum  of  five  shillings  and  of  the  within  named  pe- 
titioners the  sum  of  Eleven  hundred  &  thirty-five  pounds  lawful 
Money  of  New  York  being  the  full  consideration  Money  within  men- 
tioned. 

Hendricks      (Mark) 
Abrams     (Mark) 
Agwtrraeghje 
Johans  Crim 


260  APPENDICES 

I  do  herby  Certify  that  the  within  Deed  was  Executed  and  the 
consideration  Money  paid  in  my  presence. 

Wm.  Tryon. 


APPENDIX  B 

HISTORICAL  NOTES 

OF   THE 

SETTLEMENT  ON  No.  4, 

BROWN'S  TRACT, 

IN  WATSON, 

LEWIS  COUNTY,  N.  Y. 

WITH 

NOTICES  OF  THE  EARLY  SETTLERS 


"Neque  semper  arcum  tendit  ApolloJ 


UTICA,  N.  Y. 

Roberts,  Printer,  (iO  Genesee  Street 

1864 

[On  the  page  facing  tliis  imprint  is  a  photograph  of  Orrin  Fenton. 

Photograph  by  Van  Aken,  Lowville,  N.  Y.] 

The  following  Notes  were  chiefly  prepared  for  the  consideration  of 
a  Club  formed  with  a  view,  in  part,  to  the  local  history  of  Lewis 
County,  and  not  for  publication.  Proud  of  its  past,  and  solicitous  of 
its  future  annals:  To  those  living  of  the  Early  Settlers  of  the  Black 
River  Country,  and  the  descendants  of  those  dead,  this  Historical 
Brick  from  the  hearthstone  of  a  well-known  locality  in  that  Country, 
is  respectfully  inscribed. 

Martinsburgh,  June  1, 1864.  W.  Hudson  Stephens. 

CHAPTER  I 

ROUTE 

From  Mount  Tahawus,  (Marcy)  the  Adirondac  range — the  Moun- 
tain, Lake,  and  Wilderness  region  of  New  York — slopes  to  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  River  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  E.  and  N.,  and  the  Black  River 
on  the  "West.  Upon  the  Western  base  the  locality  of  No.  4  is  situated. 
The  distance  over  Rail  and  Plank  Road  from  Trenton  Falls  to  Low- 
ville is  forty-one  miles.  It  is  a  journey  thence  of  eighteen  miles  from 
Lowville. 

Passing  the  spot  where  the  first  settlers  of  Lowville  rested  with  their 


APPENDICES  261 

families  on  the  first  night  of  their  settlement  of  the  new  township 
—10th  April,  1798;  the  old  swing-gate  guarding  the  Black  River 
flats,  erected  so  long  ago  the  record  of  its  legal  existence  has  died  out 
from  the  Town  book;  the  curvilinear  road  on  the  river  bank,  where 
negligence  or  town  penury  has  sacrificed  so  many  horses;  the  State 
swing-bridge  over  the  River  Improvement,  with  its  works  of  support 
and  defense  against  the  stream,  and  famous  in  recent  State  political 
struggles;  the  grove-surrounded  residence  of  Commissioner  Beach; 
the  Church  upon  the  plain  of  Watson,  fixing  the  landscape  from  the 
West;  the  home  of  "Hunter"  Higby— the  volunteer  at  fifty-five;  the 
solid  brick  school-house;  the  square-roofed  residence  of  Ex-Sheriff 
Kirly,  now  the  home  of  the  Fenton;  over  sand  deep  and  hard— hill, 
level,  and  stream,  beyond  Crystal  Lake,  and  across  the  famous  Black 
Creek — we  stop  at  Robert  Griffiths,  the  justice,  hunter,  and  local 
preacher,  with  its  chain-pump  in  front,  and  the  school-house  op- 
posite.    It  is  the  last  school-house  we  shall  find. 

An  irregular,  winding  road,  through  woods  for  eight  miles,  and  we 
emerge  amid  partially  cleared  lands,  with  here  and  there  an  apple 
and  cherry  tree  in  the  grass  plot  of  a  deserted  farm — into  quite  a 
"Deserted  Village" — houses  without  tenants — barns  wanting  boards 
and  crops — an  abandoned  school-house,  windows  out  and  door  gone — 
into  the  cultivated  clearing  of  No.  4.  Beyond  Chauncey  Smith's, 
on  the  left,  and  the  Champlain  Road,  extending  eighty  miles  into  the 
Wilderness,  on  the  right ;  the  red  house  of  Fenton,  perched  on  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  is  approached  by  the  road  leading  down  to  Wet- 
more 's,  and  through  the  lot  to  the  landing  on  Beaver  Lake.  (Francis, 
Wood,  Salmon,  Beaver  Dam,  and  Crooked  Lakes  are  easy  of  access 
from  No.  4.  Trout  and  salmon  are  the  principal  fish.  Deer  Stalking 
frequent  and  successful.  "Floating"  in  June — May  and  September, 
principal  fishing.) 

Mountains  covered  with  evergreen,  huge,  and  stretching  away  into 
the  distance — the  indented  lake  with  its  islands,  and  beach  crowded 
with  fishing  craft,  and  an  occasional  shanty— with  the  breeze  wafting 
the  dull,  resonant  sound  of  the  waters  at  "the  Palls"  on  the  river  be- 
low—who, fresh  from  the  settled  Valley  of  the  Black  River,  ever  loses 
the  impress  from  memory's  tablet  which  this  first  view  ever  makes 
on  the  enraptured  vision?  How  appropriate  here  the  rejected  verses 
of  Gray 's  ' '  Elegy ' ' : 

How  the  sacred  calm  that  breathes  around, 
Bids  every  fierce,  tumultuous  passion  cease; 

In  .still,  small  accents,  whispering  from  the  ground 
A  grateful  earnest  of  eternal  peace. 


262  APPENDICES 

There  scattered  oft,  the  earliest  of  the  year, 

By  liands  unseen  are  showers  of  violets  found; 

The  redbreast  loves  to  build  and  warble  there, 
And  little  footsteps  lightly  print  the  ground. 


CHAPTER     II 
•  THE  FIRST  FISHING  PARTIES 

To  realize  No.  4,  is  to  seek  and  find  repose — exclusion  and  "with- 
out care" — from  the  treadmill  of  labor,  the  anxieties  of  politics,  the 
perplexities  of  traflfic,  and  from  the  chain-like  task  of  a  weary  and 
overtaxed  brain.  Here,  in  the  earlier  annals  of  Lewis  County,  Alex- 
ander "W.  Stow,  I.  W.  Bostwick,  and  others  departed,  sought  convivial 
hours  and  glorious  freedom.     It  is  a  place 

"For  all  ye  wretched  mortals 

Aspiring  to  be  rich 
And  ye  whose  gilded  coaches 

Have  tumbled  in  the  ditch." 

From  the  traditions  about  the  camp  fire,  the  reminiscences  of  other 
days,  with  characteristics  of  the  actors,  are  easily  gathered. 

Of  the  first  fishing  party  to  No.  4  (1818  or  '19),  were  Cornelius 
Low  (agent,  with  Bostwick,  of  his  father,  Nicholas  Low  of  New  York 
City,  proprietor  of  Lowville  from  1818  to  1826.  Was  a  brother  of 
I\rrs.  Charles  King,  President  of  Columbia  College.  Died  1849). 
Heman  Stickney  (owned  an  oil  mill  on  the  site  of  Willard's  factory, 
Lowville ;  brother-in-law  of  Ehud  Stephens,  who  with  Jonathan  Rogers 
were  first  settlers  of  Lowville).  Otis  Whipple  (Lowville  merchant; 
years  before  his  death  a  resident  of  Utica).  Charles  Dayan  (student 
of  Bostwick  and  Low ;  State  Senator  in  1828,  and  president  pro  tern,  of 
the  same;  defeated  by  Silas  Wright,  Jr.,  1829,  for  Comptroller,  in 
Legislative  Caucus;  in  Congress,  20th  District,  from  1831  to  1833, 
and  a  member  of  Committee  on  Manufactures),  Russell  Parish, 
(graduate  of  Yale  College,  1813;  law\'er  at  Lowville;  member  of  Con- 
stitutional Convention,  1846,  from  Lewis  County.  Died  1855,  at  Low- 
ville). Samuel  Rogers  (son  of  Capt.  Rogers  of  Lowville;  educated 
at  Hamilton  College,  a  lawyer.  Married  and  died  at  New  Orleans) 
with  Thomas  Puffer  as  guide.  (Puffer  was  a  native  of  Princeton, 
Mass. ;  settled  in  Watson  about  1800,  and  was  for  many  years  the  only 
settler.  Died  about  1836.  A  large  family  survives  him,  among 
them,  Isaac,  widely  known  as  "chapter  and  verse"  minister  of  the 
M.  E.  Church.)     They  went  with  team  as  far  as  John  Beach's  (seven 


APPENDICES  263 

miles  east  of  Black  River)  thence  on  foot,  having  Sam  Roger's  hor- 
rowed  horse  with  packages. 

The  most  noticeable  incidents  of  this  pioneer  party  who  camped 
at  "Fish  Hole"  and  fished  at  Beaver  Falls  for  eight  days  early  in 
June,  were  the  naming  of  the  creek  at  Fish  Hole,  "Sunday  Creek," 
alike  from  their  attachment  to  the  name  and  it  being  commemorative 
of  the  day  of  their  camping  there ;  the  burning  at  the  camp  fire,  by 
Low,  of  both  his  boots,  and  the  improvising  of  bark  ones;  and  that 
Sam  lost  his  horse,  which  was  found  after  an  absence  of  three  weeks. 

The  following  year,  Alex.  W.  Stow,  James  T.  Watson,  and  Ziba 
Knox  tried  their  luck  at  the  locality  for  one  week. 

Stow  was  a  native  of  Lowville.  Removing  from  Lowville,  he  died, 
September  14,  1854,  at  Milwaukee,  Chief  Justice  of  Wisconsin;  son  of 
Judge  Silas  Stow  of  Lowville,  and  brother  of  Horatio  J.  Stow,  late  of 
Erie  County. 

James  Taleott  Watson  made  the  first  attempt  to  settle  these  lands 
(Watson)  and  for  many  years  was  accustomed  to  spend  his  summers 
in  the  country,  at  Lowville.  He  was  a  man  of  fine  education  and 
affable  manners,  and  in  early  life  was  a  partner  in  the  house  of  Thos. 
L.  Smith  &  Co.,  East  India  Merchants,  in  which  capacity  he  made 
a  voyage  to  China.  The  death  of  a  Miss  Livingston,  to  whom  he  was 
engaged  to  be  married,  induced  a  mental  aberration  which  continued 
through  life,  being  more  aggravated  in  certain  seasons  of  the  year, 
while  at  others  it  was  scarcely  perceptible.  In  after  life,  the  image 
of  the  loved  and  lost  often  came  back  to  his  memory,  like  the  sunbeam 
from  a  broken  mirror,  and  in  his  waking  reveries  he  was  heard  to 
speak  of  her  as  present  in  the  spirit,  and  a  confidant  of  his  inmost 
thoughts. 

In  his  business  transactions  Mr.  Watson  often  evinced  a  caprice 
which  was  sometimes  amusing,  and  always  innocent.  This  was,  by 
most  persons,  humored,  as  tending  to  prevent  any  unpleasant  result, 
which  opposition  might  at  such  times  have  upon  him.  In  the  summer 
of  1838,  he  undertook  to  cultivate  an  immense  garden,  chiefly  of 
culinary  vegetables,  upon  his  farm  in  Watson ;  beginning  at  a  season 
when  under  the  most  favorable  conditions  nothing  could  come  to  ma- 
turity, and  insisting  that  he  would  be  satisfied  if  the  seeds  only 
sprouted,  as  this  would  prove  the  capacity  of  his  land. 

In  his  social  intercourse  Mr.  Watson  often  evinced,  in  a  high  degree, 
many  noble  and  manly  qualities.  With  a  lively  fancy  and  ready 
command  of  language,  he  had  the  power  of  rendering  himself  emi- 
nently agreeable,  while  many  of  those  who  settled  upon  his  tract  will 
bear  witness  that  he  possessed  a  kind  and  generous  heart.     But  there 


264  APPENDICES 

were  moments  when  the  darkest  melancholy  settled  upon  him,  utterly 
beyond  relief  from  humany  sj^mpathy;  and  in  one  of  these  he  ended 
his  own  life.  He  committed  suicide  with  a  razor,  in  New  York,  Janu- 
ary 29,  1839,  at  the  age  of  50  years.  His  estate  was  divided  among 
thirty -nine  first  cousins  on  his  father's  side,  and  five  on  his  mother's 
side ;  and  some  of  these  shares  were  further  subdivided  among  numer- 
ous families.  The  sixty  thousand  acres,  when  divided,  gave  to  a 
cousin's  share  over  sixteen  hundred  acres,  but  some  parcels  amounted 
to  but  thirty-three  acres.  This  sketch  of  Watson  is  from  Hough's 
Lewis  County. 

Its  earlier  reputation — No.  4,  has  one  for  purity,  for  peace,  and 
innocent  abandon — kindly  cared  for,  has  brought  frequenters  from  a 
distance.  Here  the  massive  brain  and  keen  perceptive  qualities  which, 
as  Chief  Justice  of  the  State  (Comstoek,  of  Syracuse,)  pronounced 
the  judicial  fiat  of  its  highest  court  against  legislation  trenching  on 
reserved  privilege;  the  legal  giant  (B.  Davis  Noxon)  of  the  Fifth  Dis- 
trict, venerable  and  replete  with  learning,  to  whom  the  "hour"  rule 
of  the  Court  seems  to  have  no  reference;  and  that  fatherly  Judge  (D. 
Pratt)  laborious  and  faithful  to  the  public  business,  who  could  con- 
sent to  stay  in  Lewis  County  over  one  week  to  discharge  his  functions, 
and  others  have  been  found  refreshing  their  jaded  intellectual  powers, 
lulled  by  nature's  kindest  harmonies.  Constable's  "shanty"  at  No. 
4,  and  the  "Point"  on  Raquette  Lake,  forty  miles  beyond,  and  the 
names  of  ladies  on  the  "Notched  Tree"  on  top  of  Mt.  Emmons  (Blue 
Mountain)  eighty  miles  in  the  wilderness  from  Lowville,  reveal  who 
are  frequenters  of  the  attractive  regions  of  the  Adirondac;  while 
the  annual  return  of  a  member  of  the  New  York  Sportman's  Club 
(Judge  Stevens,  of  Hoboken)  throwing  a  line  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  with  reel,  impresses  its  value  on  the  Waltonian. 

CHAPTER  III 

PRESENT  SETTLEMENT 

In  1822,  a  settlement  was  begun  in  the  eastern  border  of  the  town 

(Watson)  on  No.  4,  Brown's  Tract,  by  Aaron  Barber  and Bunce. 

In  1826,  Orrin  Fenton  settled,  "and  is  still,  with  one  exception,  the 
only  settler  living  in  that  part  of  the  town. ' ' 

Hough's  Lewis  Co.  "Watson"  p.  225. 

This  is  the  chronicle  of  the  local  historian  of  the  settlement  of  this, 
one  of  the  most  interesting  localities  in  the  county.  Here  Fenton 
and  his  "busy  housewife"  have  lived  for  nearly  forty  years. 


APPENDICES  265 

"Far  from  the  madding  crowd's  ignoble  strife, 

Their  sober  wishes  never  learned  to  stray; 
Along  the  cool  sequestered  vale  of  life, 

They  kept  the  noiseless  tenor  of  their  way." 

His- head  is  whitened  with  the  snows  of  seventy-nine  winters, 

"While  years 
Have  pushed  his  bride  of  the  woods,  with  soft  and  inoffensive  pace, 
Into  the  stilly  twilight  of  her  age." 

With  an  intimate  knowledge  of  every  locality  within  miles,  the 
''runways"  of  deer,  the  haunt  of  bear  and  panther,  and  resort  of 
game ;  the  discoverer  of  lakes  and  streams,  fish-holes,  beaver  meadows, 
-and  windfalls;  a  faithful  disciple  of  Walton — he  has  quietly  pursued 
his  gentle  avocations  of  the  fisherman  and  hunter,  remote  from  busy 
haunts,  and  secluded  beyond  most  men  from  the  world,  far  above 
the  average  of  life;  relinquishing  them  only  when  time's  mutations, 
crossing  his  threshold,  has  removed  his  (fourteen)  children  to  other 
scenes,  and  made  sad  havoc  on  his  once  athletic  frame.  For  about 
eighteen  years,  two  families.  Smith  and  Wetmore,  have  been  his  only 
neighbors.  (Chauncey  Smith,  an  old-school  hunter,  has  keep  for 
teams  of  the  south  branch  of  Beaver  River,  on  the  Champlain  road, 
eighteen  miles  east  of  No.  4,  and  is  the  only  sojourner  between  No.  4, 
and  Raquette.)  Without  litigation — almost  beyond  all  public  duty 
or  burdens,  except  the  draft  (the  call  of  war  reaches  every  abode) 
these  families,  without  school  or  ministration,  have  mingled  the  duties 
of  the  farm  and  sports  of  the  field  and  stream.  As  if  to  mock  them 
of  their  happiness  the  town  elected  Arettus  Wetmore  a  constable,  and 
imposed  road  duties  upon  another — but  the  processes  which  the  one 
carries  are  as  scarce  as  the  victims  of  written  law  within  the  great  area 
of  nature  which,  with  his  unerring  rifle,  he  so  often  traverses. 


CHAPTER  IV 

FIRST  SETTLERS  ON  NO.  3  AND  4 

But  our  concern  is  with  the  past  of  this  No.  4— its  history,  hopes, 
settlement,  and  people.  The  first  settler  in  its  vicinity  is  believed 
to  have  been  Ephraim  Craft,  on  the  Champlain  road,  beyond  No.  4, 
on  this  (west)  side  of  Beaver  River. 

One  Lippincott  first  bought  and  lived  one  season  at  No.  4,  in  a 
stockade  of  upright  sticks,  between  Francis  and  Beaver  Lake. 

As  in  remote  localities  in  new  countries,  inducements  were  offered 
to  the  earlier  settlers.     In  the  West  a  free  village  lot  or  water  right ; 


266  APPENDICES 

here,  a  farm  of  one  hundred  acres  to  the  first  ten  settlers.  Men  yield 
to  them  to  find  often,  East  and  West,  the  inducement  is  about  all  the 
pre-emptioner  ever  obtains.  These  presented  as  varied  characters  of 
usefulness  and  merit  as  the  fish  abundant  in  their  streams  and  lakes. 
The  "old  road" — now  in  desuetude,  on  No.  3,  leading  from  Bush's 
Saw  Mill,  crossing  Burnt  Creek  three  times,  to  Smith's — was  the 
scene  of  early  effort ;  there,  upon  its  bush-grown  track,  may  still  be 
seen  the  homes  and  hearthstones,  eloquent  in  decay,  around  which 
trustful  and  hopeful  childhood  played  and  whiled  away  its  "young 
hours,"  with  their  uncultivated  gardens  and  orchards  of  ungathered 
fruit. 

Here  Chester  Douglass,  of  Leyden,  and  Roswell  Chubb  settled,  and 
here  Chubb 's  wife  died.  The  house  and  orchard  of  Robert  Griffiths, 
'Sr.,  where  several  of  his  boys  were  born — among  them,  William,  lately 
drowned  in  the  inlet  of  Tupper's  Lake — is  on  the  "old  road,"  about 
two  miles  from  No.  4.  He  removed  to  No.  4,  on  the  now  Chauncey 
Smith  lot. 

CHAPTER  V 
THE   PRE-EMPTIONERS 

The  ten  pre-emptioners  are  stated  as  follows: 

Aaron  Barber,  settled  opposite  and  below  Fenton's,  now  deceased. 

Benjamin  Bunce — his  shanty  was  on  Fenton's  lot  towards  Beaver 
Lake,  on  the  same  side  of  the  road. 

William  Chandler,  settled  on  corner  lot  of  Champlain  road.  Lives 
West. 

Levi  Barber,  settled  where  Fenton  lived  on  Stow's  Square. 

Lorenzo  Post,  settled  opposite  Chauncey  Smith's — now  deceased. 

Hezekiah  Tiffany,  settled  below  Smith's — died  at  No.  4,  buried  near 
Wetmore. 

Ives  B.  Rich,  settled  1823,  resides  in  Wisconsin. 

John  Gordon,  whom  Daniel  Wilder  bought  out — now  Wetmore's 
place. 

John  Rettis,  settled  1826,  now  of  Lowville. 

Jabez  Carter,  settled  in  February  1825,  on  one  hundred  and  two  acres 
under  contract  with  Herreshoff  to  remain  thereon  four  years,  to  clear 
sixteen  acres  and  build  a  house  and  barn,  for  which  he  was  to  receive  at 
the  expiration  of  the  four  years  a  deed  of  his  "inducement."  He  re- 
moved therefrom  in  December,  1831,  but  not  without  giving  the  set- 
tlement the  benefit  of  his  varied  skill  and  capacity,  he  having  taught 
at  No.  4,  the  first  school  of  about  thirty-five  scholars  at  fifteen  dollars 


APPENDICES  267 

per  month,  and  boarded  himself.  He  engaged  in  the  mercantile  busi- 
ness and  potash  manufacture,  and  established  a  still  for  expressing 
hemlock,  balsam,  and  tamarae  oils,  of  which  he  marketed  a  total  of 
one  hundred  pounds.  He  also  acted  one  year  as  superintendent  of 
the  common  school,  of  which  he  was  the  teacher,  and  trusted  out  as 
a  permanent  sinking  fund  about  $300  of  his  goods  and  groceries  for 
the  general  well-being  of  the  infant  settlement.  He  still  retains,  how- 
ever, the  fee  of  his  one  hundred  and  two  acres,  with  its  ninety  cents 
yearly  tax ;  though  his  attention  at  the  age  of  seventy-three  in  public 
affairs  is  engrossed  in  the  manifold  and  multiplied  duties  of  Liquor 
Commissioner  of  Lewis  County,  residing  at  Lowville. 
One  Douglass  succeeded  him  as  teacher,  removing  West. 

CHAPTER  VI 

SUBSEQUENT  SETTLERS — FENTON 'S   PANTHER   HUNT 
RELIGIOUS  INTEREST 

Of  the  first  shoal  of  settlers  endeavoring  to  fix  a  permanent  abode 
in  the  Wilderness,  at  No  4,  were :  Peter  Wakefield,  who  settled  on 
the  now  Smith  place,  about  1826  or  1827 ;  which  place  was  thereafter 
occupied  by  Wilbur  Palmer;  Isaac  Wetmore  (son  of  Reuben,  of 
Spencertown,  Columbia  County,  N.  Y.)  about  1834,  the  white  slab 
of  whose  grave  (he  died  September  11,  1853)  is  visible  from  the  road- 
side below  Fenton's  and  to  draft  whose  will,  L.  C.  Davenport  of  the 
Lowville  Bar,  traveled  twenty  miles  and  back ;  Orrin  Fenton  (son  of 
Ebenezer)  born  July  1,  1784,  at  Mansfield,  Conn.,  and  successively  a 
resident  of  Windsor,  Champion,  and  Lowville,  and  who,  losing  his 
wife, — Barber,  by  whom  he  had  seven  children — five  now  living — 
afterwards  married  at  Lowville,  Lucy  Weller,  of  Westficld,  Mass.  (of 
their  three  boys  and  two  girls,  four  survive)  settled  at  No.  4,  March 
21,  1826.  Of  all  these  settlers,  but  Fenton  remains,  *'a  rude  fore- 
father of  the  hamlet. ' ' 

One  incident  illustrative  of  Fenton's  early  forest  experience  must 
suffice.  About  1835,  Fenton  set,  about  half  a  mile  from  Beaver  Lake, 
and  ten  rods  from  the  river  of  that  name,  a  wolf  trap  secured  by  a 
chain  to  a  sapling.  On  visiting  his  trap  he  was  somewhat  surprised 
at  not  finding  it,  and  by  marks  upon  shrubs  he  traced  it  to  a  cedar 
swamp.  Examining  carefully,  he  discovered  a  big  track,  and  arm- 
ing himself  with  a  club,  advanced  to  a  closer  acquaintance  with  the 
possessor  of  the  trap ;  but  finding  on  the  bushes  gray  hair  instead  of 
black,  he  wisely  concluded  it  was  not  a  bear  but  a  wolf.  While  pur- 
suing carefully  the  track,  he  discovered,  crouched  upon  all  fours  be- 


268  APPENDICES 

side  a  log,  ten  feet  from  him,  a  large  panther  with  the  lost  trap  on  his 
fore  foot,  Fenton  made  for  the  other  side  of  the  log  with  his  club, 
when  the  panther  ran  from  him  some  ten  rods,  bearing  the  trap. 
Concluding  the  job  with  his  club  he  found  would  be  larger  than  he 
expected,  so  he  went  back  for  his  rifle,  and  returned,  with  I.  Wetmore, 
to  where  he  had  left  the  panther.  Fenton  fired  at  four  rods,  hitting 
him  below  the  eye,  but  did  not  kill  him.  He  jumped  up  and  faced 
his  adversaries,  growled,  and  savagely  showed  his  "ivories,"  when  a 
second  shot  by  Fenton  brought  him  down.  He  weighed  about  two 
hundred  pounds,  and  measured  nine  feet  from  tip  to  tip. 
About  1832-35,  there  were  about  seventy-five  settlers,  and  in  1842, 

a  religious  revival  took  place,  at  which  Elder Blodget  and  others 

ministered,  making  sixty  converts. 

CHAPTER  VII 
AGENTS — DECAY  OF  SETTLEMENT — DAYAN's  BET — JAMES  0'KA.NE 

As  one  by  one  the  pioneers  removed  to  more  inviting  localities,  new 
ones  came  in — a  squatter  upon  the  improvements  of  the  last  owner, 
remained  a  short  period,  and  followed  his  predecessor.  Upon  some 
of  the  lots  several  in  succession  settled  and  then  departed,  as  the 
clouds  of  disaster  settled,  and  disappointed  hope  grew  gloriously 
feeble. 

Hence,  George  Turner  was  found  on  the  Chandler  lot,  and  Henry 
Loomis,  McBride,  and  Henry  Davis  opposite  Turner's  lot,  succeeded 
each  other,  while  John  Gordon  and  Brown  located  below  Smith's  on 
the  same  side. 

Bunce,  whose  house  is  still  held  together  by  the  coherence  of  old 
carpentry,  on  "Old  Road,"  became  first  a  settler  on  the  lot  of  Fen- 
ton's  and  Chubb  afterwards  succeeded  him  as  possessor  for  a  season 
of  the  coveted  domain  on  No.  3. 

Of  the  residue  of  the  settlers,  temporary  sojourners  in  that  land  of 
early  promise,  little  is  remembered.  Where  Grott  and  Burton 
"chopped"  north  of  Beaver  River,  the  most  distant  effort — "picket 
duty  against  the  wilderness" — is  pointed  out ;  while  Fletcher's  "chop- 
ping" is  a  known  locality  on  this  side  that  river,  Peter  Wakefield's 
family  was  among  the  last  who  "dug  out"  from  No.  4,  in  1847,  to 
New  Bremen. 

These  settlers  came  in  the  palmy  days  when  John  Brown  Francis 
figured  as  proprietor,  and  Charles  Dayan,  John  Beach,  and  John  B, 
Harrischoff  were  agents — for  it  required  agents  bustling  with  author- 
ity to  manage  such  possessions  in  those  days. 


APPENDICES  269 

Of  the  new  residents  who  from  time  to  time  made  investment  in  the 
locality,  I  am  not  informed.  On  the  Champlain  road,  out  from  No. 
4,  half  a  mile  beyond  Craft 's  clearing,  is  the  one  hundred  acres  which 
was  lost  by  George  W.  Bostwick  on  a  bet  with  Hon.  Charles  Dayan 
against  a  new  saddle,  on  the  political  result  of  Lewis  County  in  the 
memorable  contest  of  1844.  The  vote  of  the  county  having  been 
against  the  "great  commoner,"  the  lot  was  deeded  in  March,  1845. 

At  Stillwater,  eight  miles  from  No.  4,  is  the  grave  of  James  O'Kane. 
The  following  appeared  in  the  "Northern  Journal,"  in  January,  1858  : 

"Died,  alone  in  his  shanty,  near  the  confluence  of  Twitchel  Creek 
and  Beaver  River,  (Still  water)  Herkimer  County,  N.  Y.,  on  the  first 
day  of  January,  1858,  from  cancer  of  the  stomach,  James  O'Kane, 
aged  about  70  years. 

"Deceased  has  lived  alone  in  his  shanty,  where  his  lifeless  remains 
were  found,  for  about  twelve  years.  From  his  position  on  his  couch 
by  the  fire,  his  head  and  shoulders  being  gently  elevated  and  his  hands 
quietly  crossed  upon  his  breast,  his  last  hours  and  the  departure  of  his 
spirit  were  in  harmony  with  the  solitude  around  his  forest  home.  An 
abundance  of  flour,  cheese,  butter,  bread,  potatoes,  etc.,  were  found  in 
his  shanty.  He  was  a  fisherman,  trapper,  and  hunter;  said  to  be  of 
fair  education.  A  worn  copy  of  the  'gospels'  and  a  work  on  the 
'Piscatory  Art'  constituted  his  library.  He  owned  several  boats 
that  plied,  at  the  command  of  hunting  and  fishing  parties,  upon  the 
lakes,  sometimes  as  far  up  as  Albany  Lake.  From  parties  he  was 
generally  the  recipient  of  the  leavings  of  'provisions  and  potations' 
by  which  his  larder  was  replenished.  Many  a  sportsman  will  recall 
with  delight  his  night  spent  beneath  the  protecting  roof  of  'Jimmy.' 

"On  the  5th  inst.  a  party,  consisting  of  Elder  Robinson,  Ex-Sheriff 
Kirly,  Joseph  Garmon,  William  Glenn,  E.  Harvey,  R.  Kirly,  F.  Robin- 
son, and  A.  Wetmore,  buried  his  remains  on  a  bluff  overlooking  the 
river,  near  the  well-known  shanty,  a  spot  selected  and  formerly 
pointed  out  by  'Jimmy'  to  Elder  Robinson  as  the  place  of  his  repose. 
A  rude  wooden  monument  marks  the  head,  and  an  oar  the  foot  of  his 
grave.     He  died  alone. 

Found  dead  and  alone! 

Nobody  lienrd  his  last  faint  groan, 

Or  knew  when  his  sad  heart  ceased  to  beat. 

No  mourner  lingered  with  tears  or  sighs, 

But  the  stars  looked  down  with  pitying  eyes, 

And  the  chill  winds  passed  with  a  wailing  sound, 

O'er  the  lonely  spot  where  his  form  was  found — 

Found  dead  and  alone!" 


270  APPENDICES 

CHAPTER  VIII 
SALE  AND  REMOVAL  OF  FENTON 

The  period  of  selling  out  the  old  home,  of  removing  from  the  wilder- 
ness world  which  he  had  presided  over  so  many  years,  approached. 

The  writer,  while  at  Wetmore's,  in  August,  1862,  was  requested  to 
act  professionally  by  the  proposed  purchaser  of  Fenton's  occupation 
and  rights,  in  drafting  the  necessary  papers  to  effectuate  a  sale.  Be- 
ing the  sole  attorney  in  the  vicinage,  this  rare  and  unexpected  pro- 
fessional engagement  induced  a  prompt  attendance  at  Fenton's  after 
dinner  on  the  day  following  (Saturday).  Fonton  and  the  purchaser 
having  concluded  their  long  consultation,  and  the  old  gentleman  hav- 
ing occasionally  exchanged  views  with  his  "better  half,"  still  active 
in  household  duties  though  stooping  with  age;  and  John  being  called 
from  the  garden  to  concur  in  and  approve  the  arrangements,  the 
papers  were  in  process  of  preparation  for  signature,  when  the  original 
title  deeds  were  deemed  a  proper  muniment  and  guide  on  the  occa- 
sion. 

The  deed  from  Governor  Francis  and  wife,  produced  after  consid- 
erable delay,  dated  in  1826,  was  acknowledged  before  John  Beach, 
Commissioner  of  Deeds,  and  was  discolored  with  age.  Having  never 
been  of  record,  it  was  brought  to  the  clerk's  office,  where  they  are 
supposed  to  know  the  signature  of  commissioners  who  died  about  the 
time  the  clerk  was  born,  and  to  record  them  as  genuine! 

The  reluctance  of  the  proprietor  to  dispose  of  his  old  home  and  re- 
move from  his  haunts  and  fishing  grounds  was  evident.  It  took  an 
entire  afternoon  to  "do  the  business,"  for  which  ample  compensation 
was  accorded  by  a  ride  with  John,  who  was  going  out  the  day  follow- 
ing to  Lowville.  Fitting  regard  for  the  feelings  of  attachment  and 
regret  which  age  cherished  at  such  an  hour,  was  had  by  the  purchaser 
as  one  by  one  the  different  articles  of  husbandry  were  mentioned  to 
be  included  in  the  sale — mentioned  often  with  a  sigh  as  again  thought 
passed  over  the  ancient  woods  home — by  refraining  to  remind  him  of 
the  boats  and  craft  with  which  he  had  so  many  times  pursued  his  course 
over  the  lakes  and  fishing  grounds,  and  which  it  had  been  agreed  upon 
should  pass  with  the  lands.  By  reason  of  such  omission  they  were 
not  mentioned  in  the  written  transfer  to  Louis  B.  Lewis,  with  posses- 
sion, which  he  assumed  on  January  1,  1863,  of  the  well-known  stand 
and  farm  of  Fenton,  No.  4. 

Fexton — who  shall  or  can  chronicle  the  experiences  of  his  heart- 
life  of  forty  years  in  the  Wilderness?  Tri  the  memory  of  how  many 
a  laborer  and  wanderer  is  his  cheerful,  tidy  home  treasured,  and  the 


APPENDICES  271 

kindly  attentions  of  his  forest  home  recalled  with  grateful  recollec- 
tions! Amid  such  scenes  of  wild  beauty  the  genius  of  Wordsworth 
was  roused  into  active  utterance  of  the  melody  of  "a  heart  grown 
holier,  as  it  traced  the  beauty  of  the  world  below."  The  silenc'e  and 
solitude  of  the  northern  forest  has  had  its  charms  for  him.  Who 
will  say  his  heart's  earlier  aspirations  have  not  been  as  effectually 
satisfied  in  the  solitude  of  the  uncultivated  forest,  as  if  he  had  moved 
amid  the  crowded  haunts  of  the  busy  city?  This  sportsman  by  land 
and  stream,  this  forest  farmer,  looks  back  upon  woodland  scene  and 
experience  with  sighs.  How  true  that  while  hope  writes  the  poetry 
of  the  boy,  memory  writes  that  of  the  man ! 
Martinsburgh,  Febniary  1863. 


APPENDIX  C 

THE  ADIRGNDACS^ 

A  Journal 

By  Ralph  Waldo  Emebson 

Dedicated  to  My  Fellow  Travelers  in  August,  1858 

Wise  and  polite, — and  if  I  drew 
Their  several  portraits,  you  would  own 
Chaucer  had  no  such  worthy  crew, 
Nor  Boccace  in  Decameron. 

We  crossed  Champlain  to  Keeseville  with  our  friends, 

Thence,  in  strong  country  carts,  rode  up  the  forks 

Of  the  Ausable  stream,  intent  to  reach 

The  Adirondac  lakes.     At  Martin's  beach 

We  chose  our  boats ;  each  man  a  boat  and  guide, — 

Ten  men,  ten  guides,  our  company  all  told. 

Next  morn,  we  swept  with  oars  the  Saranae, 
With  skies  of  benediction,  to  Round  Lake, 
Where  all  the  sacred  mountains  drew  around  us, 
Tahawus,  Seaward,  Maclntyre,  Baldhead, 
And  other  titans  without  muse  or  name. 
Pleased  with  these  grand  companions,  Ave  glide  on. 
Instead  of  flowers,  crowned  with  a  wreath  of  hills. 
Reprinted  here  by  permission  of  Houghton,  Mifflin  Company. 


272  APPENDICES 

We  made  our  distance  wider,  boat  from,  boat, 
As  each  would  hear  the  oraele  alone. 
By  the  bright  morn  the  gaj'  flotilla  slid 
Through  files  of  flags  that  gleamed  like  bayonets, 
Through  gold-moth-haunted  beds  of  pickerel-flower, 
Through  scented  banks  of  lilies  white  and  gold, 
Where  the  deer  feeds  at  night,  the  teal  by  day. 
On  through  the  Upper  Saranac,  and  up 
Fere  Raquette  stream,  to  a  small  tortuous  pass 
Winding  through  grassy  shallows  in  and  out. 
Two  creeping  miles  of  rushes,  pads  and  sponge, 
To  Follansbee  Water  and  the  Lake  of  Loons. 

Northward  the  length  of  Follansbee  we  rowed, 
Under  low  mountains,  whose  unbroken  ridge 
Ponderous  with  beechen  forest  sloped  the  shore. 
A  pause  and  council ;  then,  where  near  the  head 
Due  east  a  bay  makes  inward  to  the  land 
Between  two  rocky  arms,  we  climb  the  bank, 
And  in  the  twilight  of  the  forest  noon 
Wield  the  flrst  axe  these  echoes  ever  heard. 
We  cut  young  trees  to   make  our  poles  and   thwarts, 
Barked  the  white  spruce  to  weatherfend  the  roof, 
Then  struck  a  light  and  kindled  the  camp-fire. 
The  wood  was  sovran  with  centennial  trees, — 
Oak,  cedar,  maple,  poplar,  beech  and  fir, 
Linden  and  spruce.     In  strict  society 
Three  conifers,  white,  pitch  and  Norway  pine. 
Five-leaved,  three-leaved   and   two-leaved,   grew  thereby. 
Our  patron  pine  was  fifteen  feet  in  girth. 
The  maple  eight,  beneath  its  shapely  tower, 

'Welcome!'  the  wood-god  murmured  through  the  leaves- 
*  Welcome,  though  late,  unknowing,  yet  known  to  me.' 
Evening  drew  on ;  stars  peeped  through  maple-boughs. 
Which  o'erhung,  like  a  cloud,  our  camping  fire. 
Decayed  millennial  trunks,  like  moonlight  flecks. 
Lit  with  phosphoric  crumbs  the  forest  floor. 

Ten  scholars,  wonted  to  lie  warm  and  soft 
In  well-hung  chambers  daintily'  bestowed, 
Lie  here  on  hemlock-boughs,  like  Sacs  and  Sioux, 


APPENDICES  273 

And  greet  unanimous  the  joyful  change. 

So  fast  will  Nature  acclimate  her  sons, 

Though  late  returning  to  her  pristine  ways. 

Off  soundings,  seamen  do  not  suffer  cold; 

And,  in  the  forest,  delicate  clerks,  unbrowned, 

Sleep  on  the  fragrant  brush,  as  on  down-beds. 

Up  with  the  dawn,  they  fancied  the  light  air 

That  circled  freshly  in  their  forest  dress 

Made  them  to  boys  again.     Happier  that  they 

Slipped  off  their  pack  of  duties,  leagues  behind, 

At  the  first  mounting  of  the  giant  stairs. 

No  placard  on  these  rocks  warned  to  the  polls, 

No  door-bell  heralded  a  visitor. 

No  courier  waits,  no  letter  came  or  went, 

Nothing  was  ploughed,  or  reaped,  or  bought,  or  sold ; 

The  frost  might  glitter,  it  would  blight  no  crop, 

The  falling  rain  will  spoil  no  holiday. 

We  were  made  freemen  of  the  forest  laws. 

All  dressed,  like  Nature,  fit  for  her  own  ends, 

Essaying  nothing  she  cannot  perform. 

In  Adirondac  lakes, 
At  mom  or  noon,  the  guide  rows  bareheaded : 
Shoes,  flannel  shirt,  and  kersey  trousers  make 
His  brief  toilette :  at  night,  or  in  the  rain. 
He  dons  a  surcoat  which  he  doffs  at  morn: 
A  paddle  in  the  right  hand,  or  an  oar. 
And  in  the  left,  a  gun.  his  needful  arms. 
By  turns  we  praised  the  stature  of  our  guides, 
Their  rival  strength  and  suppleness,  their  skill 
To  row,  to  swim,  to  shoot,  to  build  a  camp. 
To  climb  a  lofty  stem,  clean  without  boughs 
Full  fifty  feet,  and  bring  the  eaglet  down : 
Temper  to  face  wolf,  bear,  or  catamount, 
And  wit  to  trap  or  take  him  in  his  lair. 
Sound,  ruddy  men,  frolic  and  innocent, 
In  winter,  lumberers ;  in  summer,  guides ; 
Their  sinewy  arms  pull  at  the  oar  untired 
Three  times  ten  thousand  strokes,  from  morn  to  eve. 

Look  to  yourselves,  ye  polished  gentlemen ! 
No  city  airs  or  arts  pass  current  here. 


274  APPENDICES 

Your  rank  is  all  reversed :  let  men  of  cloth 

Bow  to  the  stalwart  churls  in  overalls : 

They  are  the  doctors  of  the  wilderness, 

And  we  the  low-prized  laymen. 

In  sooth,  red  flannel  is  a  saucy  test 

Which  few  can  put  on  with  impunity. 

What  make  you,  master,  fumbling  at  the  oar? 

Will  you  catch  crabs?     Truth  tries  pretention  here. 

The  sallow  knows  the  basket-maker's  thumb; 

The  oar,  the  guide's.     Dare  you  accept  the  tasks 

He  shall  impose,  to  find  a  spring,  trap  foxes. 

Tell  the  sun's  time,  determine  the  true  north. 

Or  stumbling  on  through  vast  self -similar  woods 

To  thread  by  night  the  nearest  way  to  camp  ? 

Ask  you,  how  went  the  hours? 
All  day  we  swept  the  lake,  searched  everj'  cove, 
North  from  Camp  Maple,  south  to  Osprej'  Bay, 
Watching  when  the  loud  dogs  should  drive  in  deer, 
Or  whipping  its  rough  surface  for  a  trout; 
Or,  bathers,  diving  from  the  rock  at  noon ; 
Challenging  Echo  by  our  guns  and  cries ; 
Or  listening  to  the  laughter  of  the  loon ; 
Or,  in  the  evening  twilight's  latest  red, 
Beholding  the  procession  of  the  pines; 
Or,  later  yet,  beneath  a  lighted  jack. 
In  the  boat's  bow,  a  silent  night-hunter 
Stealing  with  paddle  to  the  feeding-grounds 
Of  the  red  deer,  to  aim  at  a  square  mist. 
Hark  to  that  muffled  roar !  a  tree  in  the  woods 
Is  fallen :  but  hush !  it  has  not  scared  the  buck 
Who  s-tands  astonished  at  the  meteor  light, 
Then  turns  to  bound  away, —  is  it  too  late  ? 

Our  heroes  tried  their  rifles  at  a  mark, 
Six  rods,  sixteen,  twenty,  or  forty-five; 
Sometimes  their  wits  at  sally  and  retort. 
With  laughter  sudden  as  the  crack  of  rifle ; 
Or  parties  scaled  the  near  acclivities, 
Competing  seekers  of  a  rumored  lake. 
Whose  unauthenticated  waves  we  named 


APPENDICES  275 

Lake  Probability, —  our  carbuncle, 
Long  sought,  not  found. 

Two  Doctors  in  the  camp 
Dissected  the  slain  deer,  weighed  the  trout's  brain, 
Captured  the  lizard,  salamander,  shrew, 
Crab,  mice,  snail,  dragon-fly,  minnow  and  moth ; 
Insatiate  skill  in  water  or  in  air 
Waved  the  scoop-net,  and  nothing  came  amiss ; 
The  while,  one  leaden  pot  of  alcohol 
Gave  an  impartial  tomb  to  all  the  kinds. 
Not  less  the  ambitious  botanist  sought  plants. 
Orchis  and  gentian,  fern  and  long  whip-scirpus, 
Rosy  polysfonum,  lake-margin's  pride, 
Hypnum  and  hydnum,  mushroom,  sponge  and 

moss. 
Or  harebell  nodding  in  the  gorge  of  falls. 
Above,  the  eagle  flew,  the  osprey  screamed, 
The  raven  croaked,  owls  hooted,  the  woodpecker 
Loud  hammered,  and  the  heron  rose  in  the  swamp. 
As  water  poured  through  hollows  of  the  hills 
To  feed  this  wealth  of  lakes  and  rivulets, 
So  Nature  shed  all  beauty  lavishly 
From  her  redundant  horn. 

Lords  of  this  realm, 
Bounded  by  dawn  and  sunset,  and  the  day 
Rounded  bj'  hours  where  each  outdid  the  last 
In  miracles  of  pomp,  we  must  be  proud, 
As  if  associates  of  the  sylvan  gods. 
"We  seemed  the  dwellers  of  the  zodiac. 
So  pure  the  Alpine  element  we  breathed. 
So  light,  so  lofty  pictures  came  and  went. 
We  trod  on  air,  condemned  the  distant  town, 
Its  timorous  ways,  big  trifles,  and  we  planned 
That  we  should  build,  hard-by,  a  spacious  lodge 
And  how  we  should  come  hither  with  our  sons. 
Hereafter, — willing  they,  and  more  adroit. 

Hard  fare,  hard  bed  and  comic  misery — 
The  midge,  the  blue-fly  and  the  mosciuito 
Painted  our  necks,  hands,  ankles,  with  red  bands : 


276  APPENDICES 

But,  on  the  second  day,  we  heed  them  not, 
Nay,  we  saluted  them  Auxiliaries, 
Whom  earlier  we  had  chid  with  spiteful  names. 
For  who  defends  our  leafy  tabernacle 
From  bold  intrusion  of  the  traveling  crowd, — 
"Who  but  the  midge,  mosquito  and  the  fly, 
Which  past  endurance  sting  the  tender  cit. 
But  which  we  learn  to  scatter  with  a  smudge, 
Or  baffle  by  a  veil,  or  slight  by  scorn  ? 

Our  foaming  ale  we  drank  from  hunter's  pans, 
Ale,  and  a  sup  of  wine.     Our  steward  gave 
Venison  and  trout,  potatoes,  beans,  wheat-bread; 
All  ate  like  abbots,  and,  if  any  missed 
Their  wanted  convenance,  cheerly  hid  the  loss 
With  hunter's  appetite  and  peals  of  mirth. 
And  Stillman,  our  guides'  guide,  and  Commodore, 
Crusoe,  Crusader,  Pius  ^neas,  said  aloud, 
"Chronic  dj'spepsia  never  came  from  eating 
Food  indigestible": — then  murmured  some. 
Others  applauded  him  who  spoke  the  truth. 

Nor  doubt  but  visit ings  of  graver  thought 
Checked  in  these  souls  the  turbulent  heyday 
'Mid  all  the  hints  and  glories  of  the  home. 
For  who  can  tell  what  sudden  privacies 
Were  sought  and  found,  amid  the  hue  and  cry 
Of  scholars  furloughod  from  their  tasks  and  let 
Into  this  Oreads'  fended  Paradise, 
As  chapels  in  the  city's  thoroughfares. 
Whither  gaunt  Labor  slips  to  wipe  his  brow 
And  meditate  a  moment  on  Heaven's  rest. 
Judge  with  what  sweet  surprises  Nature  spoke 
To  each  apart,  lifting  her  lovely  shows 
To  spiritual  lessons  pointed  home, 
And  as  through  dreams  in  watches  of  the  night, 
So  through  all  creatures  in  their  form  and  ways 
Some  mystic  hint  accosts  the  vigilant, 
Not  clearly  voiced,  but  waking  a  new  sense 
Inviting  to  new  knowledge,  one  with  old. 
Hark  to  that  petulant  chirp  !  what  ails  the  warbler? 
Mark  his  capricious  ways  to  draw  the  eye. 


J 


APPENDICES  277 

Now  soar  again.    What  wilt  thou,  restless  bird, 
Seeking  in  that  chaste  blue  a  bluer  light, 
Thirsting  in  that  pure  for  a  purer  sky? 

And  presently  the  sky  is  changed ;  0  world ! 
What  pictures  and  what  harmonies  are  thine ! 
The  clouds  are  rich  and  dark,  the  air  serene, 
So  like  the  soul  of  me,  what  if  't  were  me? 
A  melancholy  better  than  all  mirth. 
Comes  the  sweet  sadness  at  the  retrospect, 
Or  at  the  foresight  of  obscurer  years  ? 
Like  yon  slow-sailing  cloudy  promontory 
Whereon  the  purple  iris  dwells  in  beauty 
Superior  to  all  its  gaudy  skirts. 
And,  that  no  day  of  life  may  lack  romance, 
The  spiritual  stars  rise  nightly,  shedding  down 
A  private  beam  into  each  several  heart. 
Daily  the  bending  skies  solicit  man. 
The  seasons  chariot  him  from  this  exile. 
The  rainbow  hours  bedeck  his  glowing  chair, 
The  storm-winds  urge  the  heavy  weeks  along, 
Suns  haste  to  set,  that  so  remoter  lights 
Beckon  the  wanderer  to  his  vaster  home. 

With  a  vermilion  pencil  mark  the  day 
When  of  our  little  fleet  three  cruising  skiffs 
Entering  Big  Tupper,  bound  for  the  foaming  Falls 
Of  loud  Bog  River,  suddenly  confront 
Two  of  our  mates  returning  with  swift  oars, 
One  held  a  printed  journal  waving  high. 
Caught  from  a  late-arriving  traveler, 
Big  with  great  news,  and  shouting  the  report 
For  which  the  world  had  waited,  now  firm  fact. 
Of  a  wire-cable  laid  beneath  the  sea, 
And  landed  on  our  coast,  and  pulsating 
With  ductile  fire.     Loud,  exulting  cries 
From  boat  to  boat,  and  to  the  echoes  round. 
Greet  the  glad  miracle.     Thought's  new-found  path 
Shall  supplement  henceforth  all  trodden  ways, 
Match  God's  equator  with  a  zone  of  art, 
And  lift  man's  public  action  to  a  height 
Worthy  the  enormous  cloud  of  witnesses, 


278  APPENDICES 

When  linked  hemispheres  attest  his  deed. 

We  have  few  moments  in  the  longest  life 

Of  such  delight  and  wonder  as  there  grew, — 

Nor  yet  unsuited  to  that  solitude : 

A  burst  of  joy,  as  if  we  told  the  fact 

To  ears  intelligent;  as  if  gray  rock 

And  cedar  grove  and  cliff  and  lake  should  know 

This  feat  of  wit,  this  triumph  of  mankind ; 

As  if  we  men  were  talking  in  a  vein 

Of  sympathy  so  large,  that  ours  was  theirs. 

And  a  prime  end  of  the  most  subtle  element 

Were  fairlj^  reached  at  last.     Wake,  echoing  caves! 

Bend  nearer,  faint  day-moon !     You  thundertops, 

Let  them  hear  well !  't  is  theirs  as  much  as  ours. 

A  spasm  throbbing  through  the  pedestals 
Of  Alp  and  Andes,  isle  and  continent, 
Urging  astonished  chaos  with  a  thrill 
To  be  a  brain,  or  serve  the  brain  of  man. 
The  lightning  has  run  masterless  too  long ; 
He  must  to  school  and  learn  his  verb  and  noun 
And  teach  his  nimbleness  to  earn  his  wage, 
Spelling  with  guided  tongue  man's  messages 
Shot  through  the  weltering  pit  of  the  salt  sea. 
And  yet  I  marked,  even  in  the  manly  joy 
Of  our  great-hearted  Doctor  in  his  boat 
(Perchance  I  erred),  a  shade  of  discontent; 
Or  was  it  for  mankind  a  generous  shame. 
As  of  a  luck  not  quite  legitimate, 
Since  fortune  snatched  from  wit  the  lion's  part? 
Was  it  a  college  pique  of  town  and  gown, 
As  one  within  whose  memory  it  burned 
That  not  academicians,  but  some  lout. 
Found  ten  years  since  the  California  gold? 
And  now,  again,  a  hungry  company 
Of  traders,  led  by  corporate  sons  of  trade. 
Perversely  borrowing  from  the  shop  the  tools 
Of  science,  not  from  the  philosophers. 
Had  won  the  brightest  laurel  of  all  time. 
'T  was  always  thus,  and  will  be ;  hand  and  head 
Are  ever  rivals;  but  though  this  be  swift, 
The  other  slow — this  the  Prometheus, 


APPENDICES  279 

And  that  the  Jove, — yet  howsoever  hid, 

It  was  from  Jove  the  other  stole  his  fire, 

And,  without  Jove,  the  good  had  never  been. 

It  is  not  Iroquois  or  cannibals, 

But  ever  the  free  race  with  front  sublime, 

And  these  instructed  by  the  wisest  too. 

Who  do  the  feat,  and  lift  humanity. 

Let  not  him  mourn  who  best  entitled  was. 

Nay,  mourn  not  one :  let  him  exult. 

Yea,  plant  the  tree  that  bears  best  apples,  plant, 

And  water  it  with  wine,  nor  watch  askance 

Whether  thy  sons  or  strangers  eat  the  fruit : 

Enough  that  mankind  eat  and  are  refreshed. 

We  flee  away  from  cities,  but  we  bring 
The  best  of  cities  with  us,  these  learned  classifiers, 
Men  knowing  what  they  seek,  armed  eyes  of  experts. 
We  praise  the  guide,  we  praise  the  forest  life: 
But  will  we  sacrifice  our  dear-bought  lore 
Of  books  and  arts  and  trained  experiment, 
Or  count  the  Sioux  a  match  for  Agassiz? 
0  no,  not  we !     W^itness  the  shout  that  shook 
Wild  Tupper  Lake ;  witness  the  mute  all-hail 
The  joyful  traveller  gives,  when  on  the  verge 
Of  craggy  Indian  wilderness  he  hears 
From  a  log  cabin  stream  Beethoven's  notes 
On  the  piano,  played  with  master's  hand. 
'Well  done!'  he  cries;  'the  bear  is  kept  at  bay, 
The  lynx,  the  rattlesnake,  the  flood,  the  fire; 
All  the  fierce  enemies,  ague,  hunger,  cold. 
This  thin  spruce  roof,  this  clayed  log-wall. 
This  wild  plantation  will  suffice  to  chase. 
Now  speed  the  gay  celerities  of  art, 
What  in  the  desert  was  impossible 
Within  four  w^alls  is  possible  again, — 
Culture  and  libraries,  mysteries  of  skill, 
Traditioned  fame  of  masters,  eager  strife 
Of  keen  competing  youths,  joined  or  alone 
To  outdo  each  other  and  extort  applause. 
Mind  wakes  a  new-born  giant  from  her  sleep. 
Twirl  the  old  wheels !     Time  takes  fresh  start  again, 
On  for  a  thousand  years  of  genius  more.' 


280  APPENDICES 

The  holidays  were  fruitful,  but  must  end; 
One  August  evening  had  a  cooler  breath ; 
Into  each  mind  intruding  duties  crept; 
Under  the  cinders  burned  the  tires  of  home; 
Nay,  letters  found  us  in  our  paradise: 
So  in  the  gladness  of  the  new  event 
We  struck  our  camp  and  left  the  happy  hills. 
The  fortunate  star  that  rose  on  us  sank  not; 
The  prodigal  sunshine  rested  on  the  land, 
The  rivers  gambolled  onward  to  the  sea, 
And  Nature,  the  inscrutable  and  mute. 
Permitted  on  her  infinite  repose 
Almost  a  smile  to  steal  to  cheer  her  sons, 
As  if  one  riddle  of  the  Sphinx  were  guessed.^ 


APPENDIX  D 

EDITORIAL  FROM  "NEW  YORK  TIMES" 

The  following  Editorial  article  from  the  "New  York  Times"  of  August  9th, 
1864,  about  the  time  of  the  commencement  of  the  Adirondack  Company's  Rail- 
KOAn,  represents  the  character  of  the  so-called  Wilderness  from  a  different  point 
of  view,  and  may  be  of  interest  to  such  as  have  not  been  familiar  with  its  remark- 
able features:  — 

ADIRONDACK 

Not  the  least  important  of  the  advantages  offered  for  residence  by 
our  Atlantic  cities,  is  their  proximity  to  the  most  charming  natural 
retreats,  to  which  we  can  easily  escape  during  the  intervals  of  business, 
and  where  we  can  replenish  our  fountains  of  vitality,  exhausted  by  the 
feverish  drain  of  over-effort.  Ranges  of  mountains  hover  jealously 
near  our  coasts,  and  give  prolific  birth  to  a  family  of  the  loveliest 
streams  and  lakes.  Notwithstanding  the  enormous  physical  propor- 
tions of  our  continent,  its  infinite  variety  is  equal  to  its  extent ;  and 

1  Those  who  wish  a  running  commentary  on  the  poem,  pointing  out  little  dis- 
crepancies of  detail,  but  enlarging  fondly  on  its  Greek-like  beauty  of  conception 
and  execution,  will  find  it  in  the  essay  on  "The  Philosophers'  Camp,"  in  Still- 
man's  The  Old  Rome  and  Xetc.     See  Chap.  XVJ. 

A  late  aftermath  of  "Camp  Maple"  came  in  the  publication,  in  1913,  of  volume 
IX  of  Emerson's  Journals.  It  contains  a  few  jottings  made  at  "FoUansbee'a 
Pond,"  but  nothing  that  adds  to  the  knowledge  we  have.  There  are  notes  of  the 
trees  and  the  fish  and  the  charm  of  the  place — of  tree-climbing,  by  Lowell,  after 
an  osprey — of  a  trip  down  the  Raquette  to  Big  Tupper — and  that  is  all. 


APPENDICES  281 

the  universal  presence  of  the  railway  makes  it  easy  in  a  few  hours 
to  relieve  any  tedium  of  sameness  in  any  section,  by  flight  to  another 
of  totally  different  character  and  aspect. 

Especially  is  this  practicable  in  New  York.  Within  an  easy  day's 
ride  of  our  great  city,  as  steam  teaches  us  to  measure  distance,  is  a 
tract  of  country  fitted  to  make  a  Central  Park  for  the  world.  The 
jaded  merchant,  or  financier,  or  literateur,  or  politician,  feeling  ex- 
cited within  him  again  the  old  passion  for  nature  (which  is  never 
permitted  entirely  to  die  out),  and  longing  for  the  inspiration  of 
physical  exercise,  and  pure  air,  and  grand  scenery,  has  only  to  take  an 
early  morning  train,  in  order,  if  he  chooses,  to  sleep  the  same  night 
in  the  shadow  of  kingly  hills,  and  waken  with  his  memory  filled  with 
pleasant  dreams,  woven  from  the  ceaseless  music  of  mountain  streams. 

To  people  in  general,  Adirt)ndack  is  still  a  realm  of  mystery.  Al- 
though the  waters  of  the  Hudson,  which  to-day  mingle  with  those  of 
the  ocean  in  our  harbor,  yesterday  rippled  over  its  rocks,  and  though 
on  all  sides  of  it  have  grown  up  villages,  and  have  been  created  busy 
thoroughfares,  yet  so  little  has  this  "wonderful  wilderness"  been  pene- 
trated by  enterprise  or  art,  that  our  community  is  practically  ignorant 
of  its  enormous  capacities,  both  for  the  imparting  of  pleasure  and 
the  increase  of  wealth. 

It  is  true  that  the  desultory  notes  of  a  few  summer  tourists  have 
given  us  a  vague  idea  of  its  character.  We  know  it  as  a  region  of 
hills  and  valleys  and  lakes;  we  believe  it  to  abound  in  rocks  and 
riMilets,  and  have  an  ill-defined  notion  that  it  contains  mines  of  iron. 
But  as  yet,  we  have  never  been  able  to  understand  that  it  embraces 
a  variety  of  mountain  scenery,  unsurpassed,  if  even  equaled,  by  any 
region  of  similar  size  in  the  world ;  that  its  lakes  count  by  hundreds, 
fed  by  cool  springs,  and  connected  mainly  by  watery  threads,  which 
make  them  a  network  such  as  Switzerland  might  strive  in  vain  to 
match ;  and  that  it  affords  facilities  for  hunting  and  fishing,  which  our 
democratic  sovereign-citizen  could  not  afford  to  exchange  for  the  pre- 
serves of  the  mightiest  crowned  monarch  of  Christendom.  And  still 
less  do  we  understand  that  it  abounds  in  mines  which  the  famous  iron 
mountains  of  Missouri  cannot  themselves  equal  for  quality  and  ease 
of  working;  and  that  its  resources  of  timber  and  lumber  are  so  great, 
that,  once  made  easily  accessible,  their  supply  would  regulate  the 
prices  of  those  articles  in  our  market. 

And  this  access  is  what  we  are  now  going  to  secure.  The  gay 
denizens  of  Saratoga,  this  season,  are  excited  by  an  occasional  glimpse 
of  a  railroad  grade  running  north  from  that  town  toward  the  Upper 
Hudson,  and  aiming  directly  at  the  heart  of  the  Wilderness.    A  thou- 


282  APPENDICES 

sand  men  are  now  cutting  down  and  filling  up  and  blasting  and 
bridging  **on  this  line;"  and  before  Winter,  twenty  to  thirty  miles 
of  the  distance  will  daily  be  measured  by  the  locomotive.  The  Adi- 
rondack Company,  improving  one  of  the  privileges  of  their  charter, 
and  in  order  to  develop  the  wealth  of  their  enormous  possessions  in 
that  region,  are  building  a  railway,  the  first  object  of  which  is  to 
reach  their  mines  and  forests,  and  its  ultimate  one,  to  strike  the  St. 
Lawrence  with  its  branches  at  different  points,  so  as  to  draw  into 
its  channel  the  bulk  of  the  travel  and  transportation  between  our 
seaboard  and  Central  Canada.  The  fact  that  this  work  is  prosecuted 
under  the  direct  supervision  of  Thomas  C.  Durant,  Esq.,  one  of  the 
principal  stockholders  of  the  Company,  and  one  of  the  ablest  railway 
men  of  the  country,  is  a  sufficient  guarantee  for  its  rapid  progress; 
and  with  its  completion,  the  Adirondack  region  will  become  a  suburb 
of  New  York.  The  furnaces  of  our  capitalists  will  line  its  valleys  and 
create  new  fortunes  to  swell  the  aggregate  of  our  wealth,  while  the 
hunting-lodges  of  our  citizens  will  adorn  its  more  remote  mountain 
sides  and  the  wooded  islands  of  its  delightful  lakes.  It  will  become, 
to  our  whole  community,  on  an  ample  scale,  what  Central  Park  is  on 
a  limited  one.  We  shall  sleep  tonight  on  one  of  the  magnificent 
steamers  of  the  People's  Line,  ride  a  few  cool  hours  in  the  morning  by 
rail,  and,  if  we  choose,  spend  the  afternoon  in  a  solitude  almost  as 
complete  as  when  the  "Deerslaj^er"  stalked  his  game  in  its  fastnesses, 
and  unconsciously  founded  a  school  of  romance  equally  true  to  senti- 
ment with  that  of  feudal  ages. 

And  here  we  venture  a  suggestion  to  those  of  our  citizens  who  desire 
to  advance  civilization  by  combining  taste  with  luxury  in  their  ex- 
penditures. Imitating  the  good  example  of  one  of  their  number,  who, 
upon  the  eastern  slopes  of  Orange  ]\Iountain  has  created  a  paradise, 
of  which  it  is  difficult  to  say  whether  its  homes  or  its  pleasure-grounds 
are  more  admirable,  let  them  form  combinations,  and,  seizing  upon 
the  choicest  of  the  Adirondack  Mountains,  before  they  are  despoiled 
of  their  forests,  make  of  them  grand  parks,  owned  in  common,  and 
thinly  dotted  with  hunting  seats,  where,  at  little  cost,  they  can  enjoy 
equal  amplitude  and  privacy  of  sporting,  riding  and  driving,  when- 
ever they  are  able,  for  a  few  days  or  weeks,  to  seek  the  country  in  pur- 
suit of  health  or  pleasure.  In  spite  of  all  the  din  and  dust  of  fur- 
naces and  foundries,  the  Adirondacks,  thus  husbanded,  will  furnish 
abundant  seclusion  for  all  time  to  come:  and  will  admirably  realize  the 
true  union  which  should  always  exist  between  utility  and  enjoyment.^ 

1  The  above  editorial  is  reprinted  from  an  old  advertising  pamphlet  issued  at  the 
time  of  the  building  of  the  Adirondack  Railroad. 


APPENDICES  283 

APPENDIX  E 
LIST  OF  HIGHEST  ADIRONDACK  PEAKS 

1-  ^^a^^y '    5,344  feet 

2.  Mclntyre    5  2oi  feet 

3.  Haystack    4  918  feet 

4-  Dix    4  9X6  fget 

5-  Basin 4  905  feet 

6.  Gray  Peak 4  902  feet 

7.  Skylight    4^889  feet 

8.  Whitefaee  437I  feet 

9.  Golden    4,753  feet 

10.  Gothic   4J44  feet 

11.  RedHeld 4,688  feet 

12.  Nipple  Top 4,684  feet 

13.  Santanoni   4,644  feet 

14.  Saddle  Back 4,536  feet 

15.  Giant  4,530  feet 

16.  Seward    4,384  feet 

17.  IMaeomb 4,371  feet 

18.  Ragged    4,163  feet 

19.  Mt.  Colviu  or  Sabelle 4,142  feet 


APPENDIX  F 

HEIGHTS  OF  THE  LESSER  ADIRONDACK  PEAKS 
(Alphabetically  Arranged) 

Name                                                        County  Feet 

Ampersand Franklin  3,432 

Baldface Hamilton 3,903 

Bartlett Essex  3,715 

Blue  Mountain   Hamilton 3,762 

Boot  Bay   Franklin   2,531 

Boreas Essex  3,726 

Burnt  Mountain  Hamilton 2,121 

iMt.  Marcy  is  the  highest  mountain  in  the  State.  All  of  the  above  peaks, 
with  one  exception,  lie  in  the  central  ].art  of  Essev  County.  The  exception  is  Mt. 
Seward,  lying  in  the  southeastern  part  of  Franklin  County. 


284  APPENDICES 

Name                                                       County  Feet 

Camel's  Hump   Essex  3,548 

DeBar Franklin   3,011 

Devil's  Ear  Hamilton 3,903 

Hoffman  Essex  3,727 

Holmes'  Hill Hamilton 2,121 

Hopkins '  Peak   Essex  3,136 

Hurricane    Essex  3,763 

Indian  Face  ( Ausable  Pond) . .  Essex  2,536 

Indian  Pass  (Top  of  Wallfaee 

precipice)    Essex 3,870 

Jerseyfield    Herkimer    3,323 

Long  Pond  Mountain Hamilton    2,268 

McKenzie   Essex  3,789 

Mt.  Andrew Essex  3,216 

Noon  Mark Essex  3,558 

Owl's  Head  Hamilton    2,825 

Panther  Gorge    Essex  3,353 

Poke-A-Moonshine Essex  2,171 

Seymour  Franklin  3,928 

Snowy  Mountain Hamilton    3,903 

Speculator    Hamilton    3,041 

St.  Regis    Franklin   2,888 

WaUface  . , Essex  3,893 


APPENDIX  G 

TREES  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS  ^ 

There  is  little  or  no  peculiarity  in  the  dendrological  features  of  the 
Great  Forest,  the  species  and  varieties  of  trees  being  the  common  ones 
which  may  be  seen  in  all  parts  of  the  State.  By  far  the  greater  part 
of  the  forest  is  of  deciduous  growth,  about  twenty  per  cent  only  of  the 
trees  being  conifers.  Of  the  deciduous  trees  the  most  common  species 
are  the  maple,  birch,  and  beech,  with  their  varieties.  Next,  and  in 
order  of  quantity,  come  the  poplar,  ash,  eherrj'-,  ironwood,  basswood, 
willow,  elm,  red  oak,  butternut,  sycamore,  and  chestnut.  The  smaller 
species  of  trees  or  shrubs  are  represented  by  the  mountain  ash,  alder, 
mountain  maple  (Acer  spieatum),  striped  dogwood  (Acer  Pennsyl- 
vanicum),  shad-bush,  sumach,  elder,  and  "witch-hopple"  (Viburnum 

1  From  Forest  Commission  Report  1893,  vol.  1. 


APPENDICES  285 

lantanoides).  The  chestnut  is  very  rare  throughout  the  Adirondack 
Plateau;  although  growing  close  to  the  foot  hills,  it  disappears  on  the 
higher  altitudes  of  the  Great  Forest.  For  the  same  reason  the  oaks 
are  rare  and  stunted. 

Among  the  conifers  are  found  the  spruce,  hemlock,  balsam,  tama- 
rack, and  white  cedar.  Some  white  pine  of  original  growth  remains, 
but  this  noble  tree,  which  once  grew  thickly  throughout  the  whole 
legion,  is  now  limited  to  a  few  small  patches  of  inferior  quality. 

LIST  OF  TREES 

Basswood  or  Linden Tilia  Americana 

Sugar  Maple  or  Hard  Maple Acer  saccharinum 

Black   Sugar  Maple Acer  nigrum  ( Var.) 

Soft  or  Red  Maple Acer  rubrum 

White   or   Silver   Maple Acer  dasycarpum 

Ash-leaved  Maple  or  Box  Elder Negundo  aceroides 

Black  or  Wild  Cherry Prunus  serotina 

White  Ash Fraxinus  Americana 

Black  Ash Fraxinus  sambucifolia 

White  or  American  Elm Ulmus  Americana 

Black  or  Yellow-bark  Oak Quercus  tinctoria 

Red  Oak    Quercus  rubra 

Red    Beech Fagus  ferruginea 

Ironwood  or  Hop  Hornbeam Ostrya  Virginica 

Sweet  or  Black  Birch Betula  lenta 

Yellow  or  Gray  Birch Betula  lutea 

White  Birch Betula  populifolia 

Canoe  or  Paper  Birch Betula  papyracea 

Yellow  Willow Salix  vitellina   (Var.) 

Black  W'illow Salix  nigra 

Quaking  Aspen  or  Small  Poplar Populus  tremuloides 

American  Aspen  or  Poplar Populus  grandidentata 

Cottonwood  or  Necklace  Poplar Populus  monilifera 

Balsam  Poplar  or  Tacamahac Populus  balsamifera 

Balm  of  Gilead Populus  candicans  (Var.) 

SMALL  TREES 

Stag-horn  Sumach    Rhus  typhina 

Wild  Red  or  Pin  Cherry Prunus  Penusylvanica 

Black   Thorn    Crataegus  punctata 

Mountain    Ash     Pyrus  Americana 

Flowering  Dog^vood   Cornus  florida 

CONIFERS 

White  Pine    Pinus  Strobus 

Pitch  Pine Pinus  rigida 

Yellow    Pine    Pinus  mitis 

Scrub  Pine  Pinus  Banksiana 


286,  APPENDICES 

Red  or  Norway   Pine Pinus  resinosa 

Black    Spruce    Abies  nigra 

White   Spruce    Abiea  alba 

Balsam    Abies  balsamea 

Hemlock    Tsuga  Canadensis 

Tamarack  or  Hackmatack  or  Larch.  .  .  .  Larix  Americana 

Arbor    Vitae    Thuja   occidentalis 

Red  Cedar    ....  Juniperus  Virginiana 


APPENDIX  H 

A  LIST  OF  ADlPvONDACK  MAMMALS 
Taken  from  "Mammals  of  the  Adirondacks"  by  Clinton  Hart  Merriam 

1  Panther  Felis  concolor 

2  Lynx    Lynx  Canadensis 

3  Bay  Lynx  Lynx  Rufus 

4  Wolf     Canis  lupus 

5  Fox    Vulpes  vulgaris  Pennsylvanicus 

6  Wolverine    Gulo  luscus 

7  Fisher    Mustela  Pennanti 

8  Marten    Mustela  Americana 

9  Least    Weasel     Putoris  erminea 

10  Mink    Putoris  vison 

1 1  Skunk    Mephitis   mephitica 

12  Otter    Lutra  Canadensis 

1 3  Raccoon     Proycon  Lutor 

14  Black   Bear    Ursus  Americanus 

15  Harbor  Seal   Phoca   vitulina 

16  Virginia  Deer    Cariacus  Virginianus 

17  Moose    Alee  Americanus 

18  Elk  or  Wapiti  Cervus  Canadensis 

10  Fossil  Horse Equus  major 

20  Fossil  Elephant Elephas  Americanus 

21  Star-nosed  Mole    Condylura  cristata 

22  Shrew  Mole    Scalops  aquaticus 

23  Brewer's  Mole   Scapanus  Americanus 

24  Short-tailed  Shrew   Blarina  brevicauda 

2.">  Cooper's    Shrew    Sorex  Cooperi 

2G  Broad-nosed    Shrew    Sorex  platyrhinus 

27  Hoary  Bat   Atalapha  cinerea 

28  Red  Bat Atalapha  Noveboracensis 

29  Dusky  Bat   Vesperugo  serotinus  fuscus 

30  Silver-haired    Bat     Vesperugo  noctivagans 

31  Little  Brown  Bat   Vespertilio  subulatus 

32  Flying  Sqirirrel  Sciuropterus  volucella 

33  Xorthern  Flying  Squirrel Sciuropterus  volucella  HudsoniuB 

34  Red  Squirrel Sciurus  Hudsonius 


APPENDICES  287 

35  Gray  Squirrel Sciurus  Carolinensis  lelicotis 

36  Fox   Squirrel    Sciurua   iiiger   cinereus 

37  Ground  Squirrel    Tamias  striatus 

38  VVoodchuck   Arctomys  monax 

39  American   Beaver    Castor  fiber  Canadensis 

40  Rat     Mus  decumanus  , 

41  House  Mouse   Mus  musculus 

42  White-footed  Mouse   Hosperonys  leucopus 

43  Red-backed  Mouse    Evotomys  rutilus  Gapperi 

44  Meaxiow  Mouse    Arvicola  riparius 

45  Muskrat    Fiber  zibethicus 

46  Jumping  Mouse  Zapus  Hudsonius 

47  Canada   Porcupine    Erethizon  dorsatus 

48  Great  Northern  Hare Lepus  Americanus 

49  Southern  Varying  Hare Lepus  Americanus  Virgianu* 

50  Gray   Rabbit    Lepus  sylvaticua 


APPENDIX  I 

WEATHER  DATA— LAKE  PLACID  CLUB— 

1909-1919 

(Compiled  by  Henry  Van  Hoevenberg  and  T.  Morris  Longstreth) 


Year         Month 

Mean 

Maximum 

Minimum 

Precipitation 

Snowfall 

1909    January 

16.3 

46 

—26 

5.95 

28  inches 

February 

16.7 

46 

—20 

2.19 

16 

March 

21.11 

50 

—12 

4.85 

43 

April 

35.5 

60 

6 

5.49 

16 

May 

48.5 

72 

27 

4.74 

4 

June 

51.4 

76 

30 

3.25 

July 

59.30 

81 

39 

5.20 

August 

59.19 

84 

30 

2.67 

September  52.81 

85 

29 

1.92 

October 

37.77 

76 

15 

2.53 

1 

November  33.83 

60 

6 

1.65 

10 

December 

15.98 

36 

—16 

3.67 

9 

1910    January 

18.5 

44 

—22 

4.42 

36 

February 

11.2 

41 

—26 

6.57 

51 

March 

32.8 

65 

1 

3.46 

5 

April 

41.79 

69 

13 

2.63 

11 

May 

47.40 

71 

21 

4.47 

5 

128 


288 

APPENDICES 

Year 

Month        Mean 

Maximum 

Minimum 

Precipitation 

Snowfall 

1910 

June          55.5 

79 

26 

3.17 

July           63.62 

88 

39 

2.78 

August       57.22 

76 

34 

4.65 

September  52.26 

74 

28 

2.78 

October      42.99 

73 

15 

3.34 

13 

November  26.38 

49 

3 

4.91 

40 

December  10.1 

32 

—18 

4.44 

36 

1911 

January     14.35 

46 

—20 

5.54 

30 

February  10.65 

50 

—24 

5.09 

38 

March        18.70 

52 

—23 

4.61 

35 

April          31.52 

70 

—10 

1.95 

7 

May           53.40 

86 

20 

3.19 

9 

208 

June          55.29 

84 

34 

3.87 

July           66.10 

92 

42 

3.01 

August       62.25 

89 

36 

3.04 

September  51.81 

73 

23 

2.29 

1 

October      43.83 

64 

15 

3.44 

12 

November  26.20 

57 

—  2 

3.59 

31 

December  23.87 

53 

—  6 

3.12 

17 

1912 

January       6.58 

37 

—33 

3.70 

40 

February  10.62 

40 

—33 

2.85 

30 

March        19.65 

55 

—22 

2.42 

14 

April         33.91 

68 

6 

3.33 

28 

May           45.96 

79 

23 

6.82 

3 

176 

June           51.5 

78 

26 

1.39 

July           59.74 

88 

32 

6.10 

August       51.4 

76 

30 

4.19 

September  50. 

76 

26 

6.01 

1 

October      42.3 

68 

21 

2.59 

1 

November  30.2 

55 

—  1 

4.83 

19 

December  21.4 

51 

—10 

4.02 

30 

1913 

January     21,3 

46 

—11 

7.36 

21 

February     8.2 

52 

—22 

2.27 

20 

March        27. 

58 

-16 

7.90 

13 

APPENDICES 


289 


Vear  Month 

1913     April 
]\lay 


1914 


1915 


Mean 
36.6 
44.7 


Maximum 
78 
78 


June  58.8 

July  62.9 

August  61.5 
September  57.4 
October  45,8 
November  29.5 
December  14. 


Minimum  Precipitation 
10  4.46 

20  1.85 


85 
84 
82 
84 
70 
60 
41 


37 
42 
31 
29 
20 
6 
—20 


4.08 
7.09 
3.64 
1.81 
2.23 
3.83 
6.40 


Snowfall 
18 
1 


124 

June           53.7 

82 

27 

2.22 

July            57.5 

88 

33 

3.75 

August       56.4 

80 

34 

1.57 

September  49. 

82 

20 

2.69 

October      43.1 

75 

14 

4.88 

10 

November  31.7 

60 

10 

4.08 

13 

December  20.6 

41 

—  9 

3.98 

32 

January     11.1 

43 

—37 

3.50 

27 

February     6.3 

41 

—36 

1.91 

19 

March         23.4 

55 

—19 

4.28 

37 

April          29.4 

68 

—  1 

5.14 

23 

May            48.8 

79 

22 

.86 

0 

June           52.8 

78 

29 

2.81 

i 

161J 

July           58.4 

83 

31 

3.60 

August       58.4 

85 

31 

4.10 

September  51. 

80 

18 

2.40 

October      45.1 

74 

12 

1.15 

8 

November  25.5 

55 

—  7 

3.94 

32 

December  13.6 

49 

—33 

3.80 

30 

January    14.2 

41 

—32 

3.88 

23 

February   16.7 

45 

—12 

4.63 

37 

March        15.4 

38 

—13 

2.48 

26 

April          35. 

70 

3 

3.18 

3 

May           43.4 

73 

26 

2.05 

i 

159^ 


1 
T 
15 
60 


290 

APPENDICES 

Year         Month         Mean 

Maximum 

Minimum 

Precipitation 

Snowfall 

1916     January     17.2 

51 

—19 

4.22 

31 

February     6.8 

36 

—32 

3.19 

29 

March        15. 

63 

—22 

2.68 

30 

April          40.3 

66 

18 

2.10 

6 

May           49.4 

77 

26 

4.13 

172^ 

June          56.9 

79 

32 

3.00 

July           67.6 

89 

40 

6.89 

August       64.8 

89 

38 

2.48 

September  54.7 

80 

30 

3.22 

i 

October      43. 

70 

20 

2.01 

1 

November  29.1 

62 

—  4 

3.01 

12 

December  16.6 

46 

—26 

3.45 

36 

1917    January     12.0 

38 

-^2 

5.63 

49 

February     8.4 

40 

—30 

3.49 

32 

March        23.2 

53 

—10 

4.94 

51 

April          34.2 

65 

8 

4.39 

22 

May           39.0 

76 

26 

4.13 

16 

219^ 

June          55. 

81 

30 

2.88 

July           61.4 

83 

42 

.65 

August       63.1 

75 

42 

2.15 

September  52.2 

66 

26 

3.99 

October      42.8 

60 

19 

4.54 

2 

November  24.4 

48 

—  7 

.67 

8 

December  12.2 

40 

—39 

1.61 

19 

1918    January       5.0 

40 

—30 

2.69 

30 

February  11.1 

53 

—32 

2.73 

10 

March    '    24.9 

65 

—15 

1.2 

17 

April          37.3 

74 

11 

1.28 

18 

104 

May           56.8 

87 

22 

2.60 

June           54.4 

84 

25 

2.40 

July           62.5 

90 

36 

5.03 

August       60.1 

91 

29 

5.92 

September  49.5 

77 

24 

4.85 

T 

October      45.1 

71 

20 

6.87 

i 

APPENDICES 

291 

Year 

Month         Mean 

Maximum 

Minimum 

Precipitation 

Snowfall 

1918 

November  35.4 

64 

4 

2.53 

6 

December  22.4 

55 

—  6 

1.91 

14 

1919 

January     20.4 

51 

—20 

1.22 

15 

February   18. 

48 

—13 

2.24 

19 

March         28. 

65 

-10 

4.05 

41 

April          36.2 

65 

5 

2.40 

2 

97i 

May            51.5 

79 

22 

4.08 

June            no  records 

July            no  records 

August       no  records 

September  55.8 

77 

25 

2.64 

October      46.1 

75 

20 

4.02 

November  30.3 

58 

6 

1.29 

16 

December   .... 

45 

—26 

20 

1920 

January       4. 

38 

—31 

1.68 

27 

February  12.5 

45 

—27 

2.45 

27 

i\Iarch        13.4 

45 

—27 

2.76 

28 

April          33.2 

61 

9 

4.04 

11 

129 

APPENDIX  J 

LIST  OF  ADIRONDACK  BIRDS 


Compiled  by  Robert  H.  Coleman 


At  the  request  of  the  author,  Mr.  Robert  H.  Coleman,  of  Saranac 
Lake,  has  kindly  taken  the  time  and  trouble  to  prepare  the  following 
list  of  Adirondack  birds.  It  includes  only  those  commonly  and  readily 
found  in  the  mountains  proper,  and  does  not  cover  the  foothills  lead- 
ing to  them.  The  record  is  made  up  from  Mr.  Coleman's  personal 
observations  and  records  during  a  residence  of  twenty-five  years  in 
the  region.  Works  on  ornithology  have  been  consulted  of  course,  and 
especially  Dr.  C.  Hart  Merriam's  "Preliminary  List  of  Birds  Ascer- 
tained to  Occur  in  the  Adirondack  Region,  Northeastern  New  York." 

Mr.  Coleman's  list  does  not  pretend  to  be  complete,  but  merely  to 
supply  the  names  of  birds  easily  found  and  recognized.     Accidental 


292  APPENDICES 

and  occasional  visitors  to  this  region  are  not  included,  nor  those  birds 
which  are  too  rare  to  be  easily  discovered.  The  nomenclature  followed 
is  that  adopted  by  "Sir.  Robert  Ridgway  and  by  Baird,  Brewer  &  Ridg- 
way  in  their  "Birds  of  North  America." 

BIRDS  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS,  COMMONLY  AND 
READILY  FOUND 

SUMMER  RESIDENTS 
Wood  Warblers 

1.  ]\Iyrtle  warbler Dendroica  coronata 

2.  ]\Iagnolia  warbler    Dendroica  maculosa 

3.  Chestnut-sided  warbler Dendroica  pennsylvanica 

4.  Black-throated  green  warbler Dendroica  virens 

5.  Summer  yellow-bird  warbler Dendroica  astiva 

6.  Blackburnian  warbler Dendroica  hlackhurnice 

7.  Palm  or  Redpoll  warbler Dendroica  palmariim 

8.  Black-throated  blue  warbler Dendroica  ccsrulescens 

9.  Black-Poll  warbler Dendroica  striata 

10.  Nashville  warbler Ilelminthrophaga  ruficapilla 

11.  Orange-crowned  warbler  (Oven) .  .Seiurus  aurocapillus 

12.  Parula  warbler Perula  americana 

13.  Cape  May  warbler Peri^soglossa  tagrina 

14.  Black-and-white  creeping  warbler.  il/niof/Z^a  vana 

15.  Redstart  warbler   Satophaga  ruticilla 

16.  Maiyland  yellow-throat  warbler.  . .  Oeothlyhis  trichas 

17.  Black-capped  Titmouse  wsiThler.  .  .Pariisatricapillus 

18.  Water  Thrush  warbler Seius  Novehoracensis 

19.  Pine  warbler Chrysomitris  pinus 

20.  Tennessee  warbler  Ilelminthrophaga  peregrina 

21.  Bay-breasted  warbler    Dendroica  castanea. 

22.  Canadian  warbler   Myiodioctes  canadensis 

23.  Mourning  warbler   Gcothlypis  Philadelphia 

24.  Cerulean  warbler Dendroica  ccrrulea 

25.  Blue-winged  yellow  warbler Flelminthophaga  pinus 

26.  Yellow-breasted  Chat   Icteria  virens 

ViREOS 

1,  Red-eyed  vireo   Vireosylvia  olivacens 

2,  White-eyed  vireo   Vireo  novchoracencis 

3,  Blue-headed  vireo Lanivireo  solitarius 

4,  Warbling  vireo  Vireosylvia  gilva 

5,  Yellow-throated  vireo Lanivireo  flavifrons 


APPENDICES  293 

Thrushes 

1.  Robin    Turdus  migraiorius 

2.  Catbird,   rare    Galeoscoptes  caroUnensis 

3.  Brown  thrush,  rare Harporhynchus  rufus 

4.  Wilson 's  thrush   Turdus  fusccscehs 

5.  Water  thrush    Turdus  novcboracensis 

6.  Wood  thrush Turdus  mustelinus 

7.  Hermit  thrush    Turdus  solitarius 

8.  Golden-crowned  thrush Seiurus  aurocapillus 

9.  Olive-backed   thrush    EylocicJda  ustulata  swainsoni 

Woodpeckers 

1.  Pileated  woodpecker  Bylotomus  pileatus 

2.  Yellom  hammer  woodpecker Colaptes  auratus 

3.  Yellow-bellied  woodpecker .Sphyrapicus  varius 

4.  Hairy  woodpecker   Picus  villosus 

5.  Downy  woodpecker   Picus  puhescens 

6.  Arctic  three-toed  woodpecker Picoidcs  arcticus 

7.  Red-cockaded  woodpecker Pmis  horcalis 

8.  White-bellied  nuthatch Sitta  caroUnensis 

9.  Brown-bellied  nuthatch    Sitta  canadensis 

10.  Brown  creeper   Certhia  familiaris  rufa 

Miscellaneous 

1.  Crow Corvus  americanus 

2.  Raven Corvus  corax  carnivorus 

3.  Blue  jay    Cyanocitta  cristata 

4.  Canada  jay  Perisoreus  canadensis 

5.  Grackle Quiscahis  purpureus 

6.  Loggerhead  shrike  CoUuria  horcalis 

7.  Night  hawk  Chordeiks  popcUie 

8.  Whippoorwill A^itrostomus  vociferus 

9.  Black-bill  coocoo    Coccyzus  erythrophthalmus 

10.  Red-shouldered  black  B Agelacus  phoeniceus 

11.  Cow   bunting    Molothrus  ater 

12.  Partridge  Bonasa  umbellus 

13.  Rusty  blackbird  Scholecophagus  ferrugineus 

14.  Canada  grouse   Canace  canadensis 

15.  Hummingbird  (Red  throat) Trochilus  coluhris 

16.  Cedar  bird Ampelis  Cedrorum 

17.  Scarlet  tanager    Pyranga  rubra 

18.  Shore  lark  Eremosphila   alpestris 

19.  Baltimore  oriole Pinicola  enucleator 


294  APPENDICES 

20.  Blue  bird    Sialia  sialis 

21.  Pine   grosbeak    Hedymeles  Ivdovicianus 

Finches 

1.  Song   sparrow    Melospiza  melodia 

2.  English  house  sparrow Pyrgita  domestica 

3.  Chipping  sparrow  Spizella  socialis 

4.  Field  sparrow Spizella  spusilla 

5.  Vesper  sparrow Poocetes  graniineus 

6.  Swamp  sparrow  Melospiza  palustris 

7.  White-throated  sparrow Zonotrichia  ahicollis 

8.  Pine  finch  or  siskin Fragilla  pinus 

9.  Gold  finch   Chrysonietris  tristis 

10.  Purple  finch   Carpodacus  purpureus 

11.  Indigo  bird  Cyanospiza  cyanea 

12.  Red  wing  cross  bill Loxia  curvirostra 

13.  White  wing  cross  bill Loxia  leucoptera 

14.  Snow  bird  or  junco J  unco  hyemalis 

15.  Chewink Pipilo  erytkrophthalmus 

16.  Grass  finch Pooecctes  gramineus 

17.  Lincoln's  finch Melospiza  lincolni 

Flycatchers 

1.  Olive-sided  flj^catcher  Contopus  horealis 

2.  Great-crested  flycatcher   Myiarchus  crinitus 

3.  Tyrant  flycatcher Tyrannus  carolinensis 

4.  Least  flycatcher   Empidonax  minimus 

5.  Yellow-bellied  flj'catcher Empidonax  flaviventris 

6.  Common  peewee  flycatcher Sayornis  fuscus 

7.  Wood  peewee  flycatcher Contopus  virens 

Wrens 

1,  House  wren Troglodytes  aedon 

2,  Winter  wren    Troglodytes  parvalus 

3,  Golden-crowned  kinglet    Regulus  satrapa 

4,  Ruby-crowned   kinglet    Regulus  calendura 

5,  Black-capped  chickadee   Parus  atricapillus 

Swallows 

1,  Chimney  swallow Chaetura  Pelagica 

2,  Barn  swallow   Ilirundo  korreorum 

3.  Bank  swallow Cotyle  riparia 

4.  White-bellied  swallow  Hirundo  hicolor 


APPENDICES  295 

5.  Purple  martin Progne  siihis 

6.  Cliff  swallow    Petmchelidon  lunifrons 

Water  Birds — MiscELLiVNEous 

1.  Great  blue  heron  Ardea  herodias 

2.  Belted  kingfisher   Ceryle  alcion 

3.  Green  heron   Butoridcs  virescens 

4.  Small  white  gull — herring  gull .  . .  Larus  argentatus 

5.  Woodcock    Philohela  minor 

6.  Sand  piper,  spotted Tringoides  macularius 

7.  Yellow  leg  snipe Totanus  flavipes 

8.  Bittern  Botaurus   lentiginosus 

9.  Killdeer   plover    Oxyechus  vociferus 

10,  Sora  rail    Porzana  Carolina 

Water  Birds — Ducks 

1.  Loon,  rare  Urinator  immer 

2.  Blue  winged  teal,  rare Querquedula  discors 

3.  Green  winged  teal,  rare Nettion  carolinensis 

4.  Wood  duck   Aix  sponsa 

5.  Red  head  duck Athyia  omericana 

6.  Golden  eyed  duck Clangula  glaucion 

7.  Butter  ball   Clangula  albeola 

8.  Black  mallard AnOrS  ohscura 

9.  Saw  bill,  migrations Merges  serrator 

10.  Coot,  rare   Fulica  americana 

11.  Small  diver Podilymhus  podiceps 

12.  Wooded  merganser   Lophodijtes  cucullatus 

13.  Sheldrake Mergus  merganser 

Hawks,  Falcons,  Eagles 

1.  Bald  headed  eagle,  rare Faico  leucocepTialus 

2.  Golden  eagle,  rare  Aquila  chrysaetus 

3.  March  hawk   Circus  Cijanesis 

4.  Goshawk Astur  palumharius 

5.  American  osprey   Pandeum  halimtus 

6.  Red  tailed  hawk Buteo  borealis 

7.  Red  shouldered  hawk Buteo  lineatus 

8.  Sparrow  hawk Falco  sparverius 

9.  Sharp   shinned   hawk Falco  velox 

10.  Fish  hawk  Pandion  halioEius  carolinensis 

11.  Cooper's  hawk   Accipiter  fuscus 

12.  Broad  winged  hawk Buteo  pennsylvanicus 


296  APPENDICES 

Owls 

1.  White  owl,  rare Strix  vyctea 

2.  Great  horned  owl   Buvo  virginianus 

3.  Barred  owl   Strix  nehulosa 

4.  Great  grey  owl,  rare Syrium  cinereum 

5.  Long  eared  owl Otus  vulgaris 

6.  Hawk  owl   Surnia  ulula  hvdsonia 

7.  Saw  whet  owl Nyctale  acadica 

8.  Sparrow  owl  Falco  apaverius 

9.  Little  owl,  screech  owl Scops  asio 

Well  known  Winter  visitors,  not  with  us  in  summer 

1.  Snow  bunting Plecthrophanes  nivalis 

2.  Red  breasted  grosbeak Hedymeles  ludovicianus 

3.  Evening  grosbeak Ilesperipho'na  vespertina 


APPENDIX  K 

SOME  "FIRSTS" 
THE  FIRST  ELECTRIC  LIGHTS 

The  first  electric  lights  in  the  mountains  were  put  into  the  Prospect 
House  on  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  when  it  was  built  in  1881.  See  Chap- 
ter XXXVI. 

THE  FIRST  AUTOMOBILE 

The  first  automobile  came  into  these  woods  in  July,  1902.  It  be- 
longed to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Herbert  J.  Sackett,  of  Buffalo,  who  were 
taking  their  honeymoon  trip  in  this  decidedly  novel  manner.  They 
spent  a  night  at  the  Ampersand  Hotel  on  Lower  Saranac  Lake, 
and  the  following  morning  drove  to  Paul  Smith's,  where  the  aged 
pioneer  of  the  ox-mobile  greeted  the  youthful  pioneers  of  the  horse- 
less carriage.  Their  passage  was  long  remembered.  In  Saranac  Lake 
village  and  along  the  highway  the  puflSng  and  pounding  motor  spread 
terror  before  it  and  left  wreckage  and  anathema  behind  it.  In  spite 
of  many  runaways,  however,  there  was  no  really  serious  accident. 

THE  FIRST  AEROPLANE 

Exactly  ten  years  after  the  first  automobile  brought  wonder  and 
consternation  to  the  woods,  the  second  miracle  of  locomotion  swooped 
down  upon  them. 

On  October  3,  1912,  George  A.  Gray  of  Boston,  in  a  Burgess-Wright 


APPENDICES  297 

bi-plane,  sailed  over  the  crest  of  Whiteface  and  landed  at  dusk  in  a 
wheat  field  near  Fletcher's  Farm,  northeast  of  the  village  of  Bloom- 
ingdale.  He  had  left  Malone  about  an  hour  before,  and,  fearing  the 
treacherous  air  currents  of  the  mountains,  had  made  the  entire  flight 
at  an  altitude  of  over  6,000  feet. 

The  news  of  his  arrival  spread  quickly,  and  the  following  morning 
hundreds  of  automobiles  visited  the  spot.  In  one  of  them  was  old 
Paul  Smith,  who  had  come  to  gaze  upon  this  last  word — this  fourth 
dimension — in  the  cycle  of  transportation  which  his  long  life  had 
spanned — oxen,  horses,  autos,  airplanes.  He  even  asked  for  a  ride 
in  the  airship,  but  the  wind  was  blowing  so  hard  that  the  request  had 
to  be  denied. 

The  next  day  the  aviator  took  his  bi-plane  to  Saranac  Lake,  land- 
ing on  the  race-track  just  outside  the  village.  He  made  this  his 
headquarters  for  several  days,  giving  exhibitions,  carrying  packages 
to  surrounding  camps,  and  taking  passengers  on  short  flights.  Among 
the  adventurous  was  Miss  Edith  M.  Stearns,  a  young  lady  from  Vir- 
ginia, who  was  staying  at  Fletcher's  Farm.  She  made  a  flight  from 
there  to  Saranac  Lake,  and  thereby  established  the  record  of  being 
the  first  woman  to  aviate  the  Adirondacks.  The  trip  proved  so  pleas- 
ant that  a  year  later  she  became  the  wife  of  the  aviator. 


I 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

FOREWORD 

The  mass  of  scattered  literature  which  merely  touches  the  Adiron- 
dacks  incidentally  is  so  large,  and  much  of  it  is  of  so  little  value,  that 
a  set  policy  of  elimination  has  been  adopted  in  compiling  this  bibli- 
ography. The  effort  has  been  to  make  it  workably  adequate  for  the 
average  reader,  rather  than  tenuously  and  technically  complete  for  the 
bibliophile.  The  following  classes  of  publication  have  therefore  been 
omitted : 

Annual  Reports  or  Year  Books  of  clubs  and  associations 

Folders  or  booklets  for  advertising  purposes. 

State  Gazetteers,  State  guide-books,  geographies. 

Fiction. 

Newspaper  articles. 

Collections  of  scenic  views. 

The  bibliography  is  divided  into  two  parts.  The  first  part  repre- 
sents the  author's  collection  of  Adirondackana,  gathered  together 
for  use  in  this  history.  It  is  listed  separately  as  the  Donaldson 
Collection,^  because  it  is  destined  to  pass  under  that  title  to  a  per- 
manent home  in  the  Saranac  Lake  Free  Library.  It  contains  all  of 
the  very  few  books  devoted  exclusively  to  the  Adirondacks,  and  the 
most  important  of  the  many  that  mention  the  region  incidentally. 
Of  pamphlets  it  contains  the  rarest  known  to  exist.  Of  innumerable 
magazine  articles  it  contains  those  having  the  greatest  historical  in- 
terest. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY— DONALDSON  COLLECTION 

STATE  REPORTS 
(Details  concerning  all  these  Reports  will  be  found  in  the  Legislative  Chapter.) 

CoLViN  Reports 

First   Topographical 1S72       Adirondack  and  Land  Survey ISSfi 

Second    Topographical    1873-74       Adirondack  and  Land   Survey 1801 

Third  Topographical   1875-70       Adirondack  and  Land  Survey.  .  .    1804 

Adirondack  and  Land  Survey.  ...  1884       Adirondack  and  Land  Survey. ...  1806 

1  So  far  as  I  am  aware  there  is  only  one  other  as  complete  collection  in  exis^t- 
ence.  This  belongs  to  Mr.  Frederick  H.  Comstock  of  New  York,  who  has  for 
many  years  had  a  summer  home  in  Keene  Valley. 

299 


300  BIBLIOGRAPHY  ' 

Forest  Preserve  Board  Reports  Fisheries,   Game,    and   Forest 

First  Annual    1897  Commission 

Second  Annual   1898  1895       Quarto.       Colored 

Third  Annual    1899  1896  "  Plates. 

Fourth    Annual    1900  1897 

189S 
(These    Reports    deal    entirely    with  1899  "  " 

land  transactions  and  have  no  general 

interest.     They     have      become      very       Forest,  Fish,  and  Game  Commission 
rare.)  1900       Quarto.       Colored 

1901  "  Plates. 

1902—1903 
Forest  Commission  Reports  1904— 1905— 190G  "  " 

1885  1907—1908—1909 

1886  1910   Octavo. 

1887  1 

1888  Conseevatton  Commission 

1889  2  1911 

1890  (Fifth  Report)  1912 

1891  1913 

1892  1914 

1893  (2  vols.)  1915       Paper-bound 

1894  1910        pamphlet. 

1917 

1918 
1919 
1920 


BOOKS  OF  TRAVEL 

Date  of  (Chronologically  arranged) 

publica- 
tion : 

1839    Hoffman,   Charles  Fenno.     Wild   Scenes  in  the  Forest  and  Prairie. 

London :  Richard  Bentley.     2  vols.     Pp.  576. 

The   first   122   pages   describe  a  trip   to  'the  sources  of  the  Hudson." 

Jolin  Cheney  and  Harvey  Holt  are  tlie  guides.     An  American  edition  of 

tliis  book  in  one  volume  appeared  in   1843.     New  York:   Colyer. 
1845     Todd,  John.     Lonp:  Lake.     Pittsfield :  E.  P.  Little.     Pp.  100. 

Tliis   is   a   rare   item.     Particular  reference  is  made  to   it   in    Chapter 

XXXIV.     Contains  much  of  historical  value. 
1850     Headley,    J.    T.     Letters    from    the   Backwoods   and    the   Adirondae. 

New  York:  John  S.  Taylor.     Pp.  105. 

This  is  also  quoted  in  Chapter  XXXIV.     Much  narrative  description, 

but  little  of  historical  value. 

1  This  is  merely  a  pamphlet  of  fourteen  pages,  consisting  of  recommendations 
as  to  changes  in  the  law.     It  is  very  rare. 

2  This  consists  of  three  printed  pages  only,  stating  that  a  supplemental  report 
will  be  published.  This  does  not  appear  to  have  been  done,  however,  as  the  Re- 
port for  1890  is  designated  as  the  "Fifth." 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  301 


1853  Headley,  J.  T.  The  Adirondack,  or  Life  in  tlio  Woods.  New  York: 
Baker  and  Scribner.     Illus,     Pp.  288. 

This  is  the  best-known  and  most  widely  road  of  the  early  travel  hooka. 
It  is  full  of  long,  rather  sentimental  descriptions  and  himting-stoiies. 
but  contains  little  of  historical  value. 

1855  Hammond,    S.    H.    and    L.    W.    Mansfield.     Country    Margins    and 

Rambles  of  a  Journalist.     New  York:  J.  C.  Derby.     Pp.  35C.     Pp. 

293-329  devoted  to  the  Adirondacks. 

A  rambling  story,  without  historical  value. 

1856  Lanman,   Charles.     Adventures  in  the  Wilds  of  America   (and  Brit- 

ish American  Provinces).  Philadelphia:  John  W.  Moore.  2  vols. 
Pp.  1031. 

Pages  211-237  are  devoted  to  the  Adirondacks  and  are  full  of  interest. 
They  treat  of  Schroon  Lake,  an  ascent  of  Tahawus,  and  John  Cheney. 

1856  Murray,  Amelia  Matilda.     Letters  from  the  United  States,  Cuba  and 

Canada.  By  Hon.  Amelia  Murray.  New  York:  Putnam's.  Pp. 
402.     2  vols,  in  one. 

Letter  XXIX,  pp.  307-387,  describes  a  trip  through  the  Adirondacks 
and  contains  much  of  historical  interest.  The  author  was  lady-in-wait- 
ing to  Queen  Victoria  and  the  first  lady  of  record  to  make  a  journey 
across  the  Wilderness.     See  Chap.  XIII,  under  "Otis  Arnold," 

1857  Hammond,   S.   H.     Wild  Northern   Scenes,   or  Sporting  Adventures 

with  the  Rifle  and  the  Rod.  New  York:  Derby  &  Jackson.  Pp. 
341. 

Little  more  than  a  string  of  hunting  and  fishing  yarns  with  the  Adiron- 
dacks as  a  background. 

1860     Street,  Alfred  B.     Woods  and  Waters,  or  the  Saranacs  and  Racket. 
New  York:  M.  Doolady.    Map  and  9  views.     Pp.  345. 
The  author  was  at  one  time  State  Librarian.     His  book,  while  full  of 
the  usual  hunting  stories,  contains  many  facts  of  historical  interest. 

1864  [Author's  name  does  not  appear].  The  Forest  Arcadia  of  Northern 
New  York  (Embracing  A  View  of  Its  Mineral,  AgTicultural,  and 
Timber  Resources).  Boston:  T.  0.  H.  P.  Burnham,  and  New  York: 
Oliver  S.  Felt.     Pp.  224. 

Camp  stories  interspersed  with  philosophical  reflection,  but  falling 
rather  short  of  the  promise  in  its  title. 

1866  Lossing,  Benson  J.  The  Hudson,  from  the  Wilderness  to  the  Sea. 
(Illustrated  by  306  engravings  on  wood,  from  drawings  by  the 
author).  New  York:  Virtue  &  Yorston.  Pp.  464.  Pp.  1-58  are 
devoted  to  the  Adirondacks. 

This  follows  the  Hudson  "from  its  birth  among  the  mountains  to  its 
marriage  with  the  ocean."  It  is  a  scholarly  work,  brimming  at 
every  page  with  historical  interest. 


302  BIBLIOGRAPHY 


1869  Street,  Alfred  B.  The  Indian  Pass.  New  York:  Hurd  &  Houghton. 
Pp.  201. 

The  Introduction  is  packed  full  of  valuable  information.  The  descrip- 
tion of  the  pass  is  full  of  genuine  enthusiasm,  but  so  long  as  to  be- 
come tenuous. 

1869  Murray,  William  H.  H.  Adventures  in  the  Wilderness,  or  Camp 
Life  in  the  Adirondacks.  Boston:  Fields,  Osgood  &  Co.  lUus. 
Pp.  236. 

This  most  widely  read  and  notorious  of  Adirondack  books  is  fully  dis- 
eased in  Chap.  XVII. 

1872  Smith,  H.  Perry.     The  Modem  Babes  in  the  Wood,  or  Sumraerings 

in  the  Wilderness.  Hartford:  Columbian  Book  Co.  lUus.  Pp. 
237. 

Hunting  and  fishing  stories  in  lighter  vein,  but  with  a  fair  sprinkling 
of  historical  interest.  The  title-page  says:  "To  whch  is  added  a  re- 
liable and  descriptive  Guide  to  the  Adirondacks,  by  E.  R.  Wallace," 
but  I  have  never  been  able  to  find  a  copy  of  the  two  books  in  one 
volume. 

1873  Halloek,  Charles.     The  Fishing  Tourist.    New  York :  Harper  &  Bros. 

Pp.  239. 

Only  a  few  pages,  67-70,  are  devoted  to  the  Adirondacks,  and  they  con- 
tain a  mere  guide-book  description  of  routes  and  places. 

1874  Prime,   Samuel   I.     Under  the  Trees.     New  York:    Harper  &   Bros. 

Pp.  313. 

Pages  0'2-l.']7  are  devoted  to  the  Adirondacks.     They  mention  only  the 

better-known  places  and  have  no  special  interest. 

1880    Lundy,  J.  P.     [No  name  on  the  title-page,  but  initials  are  signed  to 
the   dedication.]     Saranac   Exiles.     Philadelj)hia :    Author's   unpub- 
lished edition  for  private  circulation.     Paper-bound.     Pp.  329. 
Tliis  rare  and  interesting  book  is  fully  discussed  in  Chap.  XX. 

1880  Northrup,  A.  Judd.    Camps  and  Tramps  in  the  Adirondacks.    Syra- 

cuse: Davis,  Bardeen  &  Co.    Pp.  302. 

A  running  narrative  of  camping  experiences,  with  very  slight  historical 

intercsit. 

1881  Cook,  Marc.     Tlie  Wilderness  Cure.    New  York:    William  Wood  & 

Co.     Pp.  1.53. 

This  was  the  first  book  of  its  kind  to  be  published,  and  is  very  readable 

for  any  one  interested  in  the  curative  quality  of  the  Adirondack  woods. 

1893  Osborne,  Edward  B.  Forest,  Lake  and  Random  Rhymes.  Pough- 
keepsie:    (No  publisher).     Illus.     Pp.  182. 

The  first  50  pages  are  devoted  to  "Letters  from  the  Woods."  They  were 
written  between  1S5C  and  187L  but  have  very  slight  historical  interest. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  303 


1917    Longstretb,  T.  Morris.     The  Adu'ondacks.    New  York:     The  Century 
Co.     IIlus.     Map.     Pp.  36G. 

A  sequence  of  campings  and  trauipings  most  alluringly  told.     This  book 
is  quoted  from  in  Chap.  XXVIII.     See  "Lake  Placid  Club." 

LETTERS  AND  ESSAYS 

Burroughs,  John.  Wake-Robin.  Boston:  Houghton  Mifflin.  1885.  Pp. 
289.     "Adirondac"  (Summer  1863),  pp.  95-125. 

Chalmers,  Stephen.  The  Penny  Piper  of  Saranae.  An  Episode  in  Steven- 
son's Life.     Boston:  Houghton  Mifflin.    1916.     Pp.65. 

The   Beloved   Physician    (Dr.   E.   L.    Trudeau).     Privately    printed. 

1915.     Pp.  43. 

Emerson,  Edward  Waldo.     The  Early  Years  of  the  Saturday  Club;  1855- 
1870.     Boston:  Houghton  Mifflin.     1918.     Illus.    Pp.  514. 
Contains  sketches  of  all  the  members  of  Philosophers'  Camp. 

Emerson,  Ralph  Waldo.  Journals  of  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson.  Boston: 
Houghton  Mifflin.     1913.     Vol.  IX,  pp.  159-162,  Adirondacks. 

Poems  Centenary  Edition.     "The  Adirondacs,"  pp.  182-194. 

Stevenson,  R.  L.  Letters  of  R.  L.  S.  to  His  Family  and  Friends.  Edited 
by  Sidney  Colvin.  New  York :  Scribner's.  1907.  Vol.  IL  Adirondacks: 
pp.  66-130. 

Stevenson,  Mrs.  M.  I.  From  Saranae  to  the  Marquesas  and  Beyond;  Let- 
ters written  during  1887-1888.  London:  Methuen  &  Co.  1903.  Pp.  258. 
Adirondacks :  pp.  1-43. 

Stillman,   W.    J.     The   Old   Rome   and   New  and   Other   Studies.    Boston: 
Houghton  Mifflin.     1898.     Pp.  296. 
"The  Philosophers'  Camp,"  p.  2G5ff.     Used  in  Autobiography. 

Van  Dyke,  Henry.  Little  Rivers.  New  York:  Scribner's.  1904.  Pp.  340. 
"Ampersand,"  pp.  67-93. 

Warner,  Charles  Dudley.     Backlog  Edition.     Hartford:  American  Publish- 
ing Co.     1904. 
"In  the  Wilderness,"  Vol.  VI,  pp.  1-136. 

BIOGRAPHIES 

Balfour,  Graham.     Life  of  Robert  Louis  Stevenson.    New  York :  Scribner's. 
1901.     2  vols.     Port.  map.     0. 
Chap.  XII.     "The  United  States,  1887-1888."     Adirondacks:  Vol.  II.  pp.  30-49. 

Brace,   Emma.     [Mrs.    Henry   H.    Donaldson.]     The   Life   and   Letters   of 
Charles  Loring  Brace.     New  York :  Scribner's.     1894.    Pp.  503. 
Pp.  205,  223,  344,  464,  Adirondack  Letters. 

Byron-Curtiss,  A.  L.  The  Life  and  Adventures  of  Nat  Foster.  Utica: 
Thos.  J.  Griffiths,  1897.    Pp.  286. 


304  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Chittenden,  L.  E.     Personal  Keminiseenees.    1840-1890.     New  York:  Rich- 
mond Croscup  &  Co.     1893.     Pp.  427. 
Adiroiidacks :   pp.   13!)- Kit). 

Greenslet,  Ferris.     The  Life  of  Thomas  Bailey  Aldrich.     Boston:  Houghton 
Mifflin.     1908.     Illus.     Pp.  303. 
Adirondacks:  p.  217  ff. 

Jesup,  Henry  Griswold.     Edward  Jessup  and  His  Descendants.     Cambridge: 
John  Wilson  &  Son.     1887.     Pp.  442. 
"Totten  &  Crossfield  Purchase,"  p.  211  ff. 

Knight,  William.    Memorials  of  Thomas  Davidson,  The  Wandering  Scholar. 
Boston:  G inn  &  Co.    1907.    Pp.     241. 
Glenmore  School.     Chaps.  X,  XT,  pp.  55-74. 

Porter,   Noah.     A  Memorial   by   Friends.     Edited   by   George   S.   Merriam. 
New  York:  Seribner's.     1893.     Pp.  306. 
Adirondacks:  pp.  153-16G. 

Radford,  Harry  V.     Adirondack  Murray.    New  York :  Broadway  Publish- 
ing Co.     1905.     Illus.     Pp.  84. 

Richards,  Geo.  H.    Memoir  of  Alexander  Macomb.     New  York:     M'Elrath, 
Bangs  &  Co.     1833.     Pp.  130. 

Sanborn,  F.  B.     Life  and  Letters  of  John  Brown.     London :  Sampson  Low. 
1885.     Pp.  632. 
Adirondacks:  Chap.  IV,  pp.  90-115. 

Stillman,  William  James.     Autobiography  of  a  Journalist.     Boston :  Hough- 
ton Mifflin.     1901.     2  Vols. 
Adirondacks:   Chaps.  X,  XIII,  XV. 

Todd,  John  E.     John  Todd,  The  Story  of  His  Life.    New  York :  Harper  & 
Bros.     1876.     Pp.  528. 
Adirondacks:  Chap.  XXXIII. 

Simms,  Jeptha   R.     Trappers  of  New  York,  or  a  Biography  of  Nicholas 

Stoner  and  Nathaniel   Foster.     Albany:   J.   Munsell.     1871.     Pp.  287. 
Trudeau,  E.  L.     An  Autobiography.     Philadelpliia  and  New  York:   Lea  & 

Febiger.     1916.     Illus.     Pp.  322. 
Villard,  Oswald  Garrison.     John  Brown:  a  Biography  Fifty  Years  After. 

Boston :  Houghton  Mifflin.     1911.     Pp.  738. 

Adirondacks:  p.  72  ff. 


HISTORIES 

Essex    County,    History    of.     Winslow    C.    Watson.     Albany:    J.    Munsell. 

1869.     Pp.  504. 
Essex  County,  History  of.     H.  P.  Smith.     Syracuse :  D.  Mason  &  Co.     1885. 

Pp.  754.  . 
St.    LawTenee   and   Franklin    Counties,   History    of.     Franklin    B.    Hough. 

Albany:  Little  &  Co.     1853.     Pp.  719. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  305 

Clinton  and  Franklin  Counties,  History  of.     Philadelphia:  J    W    Lewis  & 
Co.     1880.     Illus.     Pp.  508. 
"The  Adirondacks,"  p.  497  S. 

Herkimer  County,  History  of.    Nathaniel  S.  Benton.    Albany:  J.  Munsell 
1856.     Pp.  497. 

Lewis  County,  History-  of.     Franklin  B.  Hough.    Albany :  Munsell  &  Row- 
land.    1860.     Pp.  319. 
"The  Castorland,"  pp.  34-70. 

Historical    Sketches   of   Franklin   County.    Frederick   J.    Seaver.    Albany: 

J.  B.  Lyon  Co.     1918.     Pp.  819. 
Historical  Sketches  of  Northern  New  York.    Nathaniel  Bartlett  Sylvester. 

Troy:  Wm.  H.  Young.     1877.    Pp.  316. 
Champlain    Valley,    Pioneer    History   of.     Winslow    C.    Watson.    Albany: 

J.  Munsell.     1863.     Pp.  221. 
Pleasant  Valley,  A  History  of  Elizabethtown.     George  Levi  Brown.    Eliza- 

bethtown :  Post  &  Gazette  Print.     1905.     Pp.474. 
The  Story  of  Saranac.    Henry  W.  Raymond.    New  York:  Grafton  Press. 

1909.    Illus.     Pp.  78. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

Geological  Survey  of  New  York,  Feb.  20,  1838.    Including  Report  of  E. 
Emmons,  Geologist  of  the  Second  District. 
"The  Mountains  of  Essex,"  p.  240  ff. 

Myths  and  Legends  of  Our  Own  Land.     Charles  M.  Skinner.    Philadelphia: 
J.  B.  Lippincott.     1896.     2  vols. 
Adirondacks:  Vol.  I,  pp.  80-90. 

Aboriginal  Place  Names  of  New  York.  Bulletin  108,  New  York  State  Mu- 
seum. Wm.  M.  Beauchamp.  Albany:  New  York  State  Education  De- 
partment.    1907.     Pp.  279. 

William's  Quarterly.     Bound  Vol.  VIII.    1860. 
Adirondack  Wilderness.     Vol    IX,  pp.  1-10. 
Sketch  of  Dr.  Emmons.     Vol.  IX,  pp.  260-269. 

The  Adirondacks  as  a  Health  Resort.  Joseph  W.  Stickler,  M.  S.,  M.  D. 
New  York :  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons.     1886.     Pp.  198. 

American   Scenic  and  Historic  Preservation  Society,  23rd  Annual  Report, 
1918. 
"Macomb  Landmarks,"  pp.  134-146. 

18th  Annual  Report,  1913. 

"Adirondack  Forest  Preserve,"  pp.  224-244. 

Where  to  go  in  the  Adirondacks  (and  on  Lake  George  and  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain).     George  R.  Hardie.    Canton,  N.  Y.    1909.    Pp.  96. 


306  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

RARE  PAAIPHLETS 

Papers  and  Documents  Relative  to  the  Mohawk  and  St.  Lawrence  Railroad 
and  Navigation  Company.     Albany :  J.  Munsell.     1838.     Pp24      Map 
The  interesting  old  map  in  this  pamphlet  shows  the  proposed  line  of  the  rail- 
road from  Little  Falls  to  Raquette  Lake.     See  Chap.  XL 

Assembly  Document  No.  133.     January  30,  1839.     Communication  from  the 
Secretary  of  State,  transmitting  the  report  of  a  survey  of  a  Rail-Road  from 
Ogdensburgh  to  Lake  Champlain. 
This  became  the  "Northern  Railroad."     See  Chap.  XL. 

Ascent  and  Barometrical  Measurment  of  Mt.   Seward.     Verplanck  Colvin 
Albany:  the  Argus  Co.     1872.     "Printed  in  advance  of  the  Report." 

An  Attempt  to  Present  the  Claims  of  Long  Lake  to  the  Consideration  of  all 
those  who  are  in  Search  after  Good  Land  at  a  Low  Price.     By  Amos 
Dean,  one  of  the  Proprietors.     Albany:  Joel  Munsell.     1846 
This  interesting  pamphlet  is  fully  discussed  in  Chap.  XXXIV. 

Historical  Notes  of  the  Settlement  on  No.  4,  Brown's  Tract,  in  Watson,  Lewis 
County,  N.  Y.,  with  Notices  of  the  Early  Settlers.     Utica:  Roberts,  printer, 

Ap^'erldif?^^^^  *^^  ''*'''*  Adirondack  item  in  e.xistence.     See  Chap.  XIII  and 

Why  the  Wilderness  is  called  Adirondack.     By  Henry  Domburgh.     Glens 

Falls:  Job  Department,  Daily  Times,  1885. 

For  details  of  this  pamphlet  see  Chap.  XIV. 
A  paper  Read  Before  the  American  Geographical  and   Statistical   Society. 

No^v^mber  2,  1854.     By  C.  H.  Waddell.     New  York:  G.  P.  Putnam  &  Co. 

An   Address  Before  the  Albany  Institute  on  the   Adirondack   Wilderness. 
By^Lemon  Thompson,  March  18,  1884.     Albany:   Weed,  Parsons  &  Co. 

^M^fT^  fi'°'T=   Biographical  Sketches   and  Anecdotes  of  Men   that 
Made  the  Adirondack's  Famous.     With  Portraits.     John  H.  Titus      Troy 
Iroy  Times  Art  Press.     1899. 
Loaned  to  the  collection  by  Mr.  Fred  T.  Tremble. 

^TLuZT'^'^'T  ""'"''  "  *''  Adirondacks.     By  J.  Dyneley  Prince. 
Published  m  the  Journal  for  American  Folk-lore  for  1900.     Pp.  123-128. 

GUIDE-BOOKS 

Wallace    E.  R      Descriptive  Guide  to  the  Adirondacks.     Syracuse:     1872. 
Pocket  map  by  Dr.  W.  W.  Ely.     Illus.  Pp   273 
i?.'to"th  *rtf "'  ^"!f -^^^k  to  be  devoted  solely  to  these  mountains.     Accord- 

Itht      Th  T  '^'\'"'''''''  ^  "^^'-^  °^^-  «^^"  the  two  w«rk8  bound  to- 

ZtZ  the^rT-di':::."^^"^'  "  '-  ^^^^  '^  ^*-"'  ^^"--^^   ^^  ^-  ^he 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


30( 


The  "Guide"  appeared  from  time  to  time  in  revised  and  enlar-od  editions  and 
the  one  of  1896  (pp.  527)  is  particularly  full  of  valuable  historical  documents 
and  data. 

Stoddard,  S.  R.  The  Adirondacks:  Illustrated.  Albany:  Van  Benthuvsen 
&  Sons.     1874.     Pp.  194. 

Through  the  purely  guide  book  portions  of  this  work  there  runs  a  descriptive 
narrative  of  a  trip  through  the  woods,  and  this  combination  was  continued  up 
to  1911,  when  the  last  edition  appeared.  A  new  one  had  been  issued  annually 
for  the  long  period  of  thirty-seven  years.  The  last  one  was  greatly  reduced  in 
size  and  material,  and  tiie  preface  offered  the  following  explanation:  "Wild 
grass  grows  on  the  old  routes  and  the  unknown  places  of  then  (1873)  are  now 
(1011)  centers  of  a  summer  population  greater  than  the  total  of  all  Adiron- 
dack visitors  of  twenty  years  ago.  So  the  old  'Narrative'  is  dropped  and  the 
space  given  to  that  which  is  believed  to  be  of  more  value  to  the  tourist  gener- 
ally condensed  and  in  a  more  convenient  size  for  the  pocket." 
These  words  proved  valedictory.  The  little  book  had  out-lived  its  usefulness, 
after  a  long  reign  of  popularity.  It  was  the  better  known  of  the  two  guide- 
books, but  historically  Wallace's  was  far  more  richly  stocked. 


EARLY  MAGAZINE  ARTICLES 

(Chronologically  Arranged) 

1838     Some  Account  of  Two  Visits  to  the  Mountains  in  Essex  County,  New 
York,  in  the  Years  1836  and  1837;  with  a  Sketch  of  the  Northern 
Sources  of  the  Hudson.     W.  C.  Redfield.     Family  Magazine.     1838. 
(Reprinted  from  American  Journal  of  Science  and  xli-ts.) 
This  is  the  earliest  magazine  article  I  know  of,  and  is  a  most  interesting  one. 

1854     The    Wilds    of    Northern    New    York.     Anon.     Putnam's    ]\Ionthly. 
September. 
Another  very  interesting  article,  written  probably  by  Prof.  F.  N.  Benedict. 

1859     A   Forest  Story.     The  Adirondack  Woods  and   Waters.     T.  Addison 
Richards.     Harper's  New   Monthly   Magazine.     September. 
A   trip   to   pome   well-known   places.     Desultory   narrative   without   much   his- 
torical interest. 
1859     A    Visit    to    John    BrovtTi's    Tract.     T.    B.    Thorpe.     Harper's    New 
Monthly  Magazine.     July. 
This  is   a  humorous   article,  but  has  also  historical   interest.     I  have  quoted 
from  it  in  Chap.  XTII. 

1869  Keene  Deliehts.     Lucy  Fountain.     Putnam's  Magazine.     December. 

A  pleasing  description  of  Keene  Valley,  but  dealing  mainly  with  the  scenery. 

1870  The     Raquette     Club.     Anon.     Harper's     New     Monthly     Magazine. 

August. 
This  was  written  by  Charles  Hallook.     It  is  a  clever  satire,  most  amusingly 
illustrated,  on  the  "Murray  Rush."     I  have  quoted  from  it  in  Chap.  XVII. 
1881     Camp   Lou.     Marc   Cook.     Harper's   New   Monthly   Magazine.     May. 
This  tells  how  a  very  sick  man  regained  his  health  in  the  woods.     It  was  the 


308  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

first  experience  of  the  kind  to  be  published,  and  as  such  attracted  wide-spread 
attention.  It  brought  forth  such  a  flood  of  inquiries  from  interested  invalids 
that  the  author  expanded  his  article  into  a  book  called  The  Wilda-ness  Cure. 

1885    Ampersand.     Henry  Van  Dyke.     Harper's  New  Monthly  Magazine. 
July. 
Charming  description  of  a  climb  up   Ampersand  Mountain,   included  later  in 
the  volume  of  essays  entitled  Little  Rivers. 

1888    Winter   in    the    Adirondacks.     Hamilton    Wright    Mabie.     Scribner's 
Magazine.     December. 
Mainly  descriptive  of  the  scenery. 


SOME  JOHN  BROWN  MAGAZINE  ARTICLES 

How  We  Met  John  Brown.  R.  H.  Dana,  Jr.  Atlantic  Monthly.  July, 
1871. 

John  Brown  in  the  Adirondacks.  Albert  Shaw.  Review  of  Reviews.  Sep- 
tember, 1896. 

John  Brown  at  North  Elba.  Elizabeth  Porter  Gould.  Outlook.  Novem- 
ber, 1896. 

The  Final  Burial  of  the  Followers  of  John  Brown.  Thomas  Featherston- 
haugh.     New  England  Magazine.     April,  1901. 

An  Adirondack  Pilgrimage.  May  Ellis  Nichols.  National  Magazine.  July, 
1903. 

The  Funeral  of  John  Brown.  Rev.  Joshua  Young,  D.  D.  New  England 
Magazine.     April,  1904. 

Ruth  Thompson's  Last  Letter  to  Her  Father,  Written  at  North  Elba,  Novem- 
ber 27,  1S59.  Proceedings  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society — Jan- 
uary, February,  March,  1908.     P.  330. 


SOME  ROBERT  LOUIS  STEVENSON  MAGAZINE  ARTICLES 

Stevenson's  Second  Visit  to  America.  William  Henry  Duncan,  Jr.  Book- 
man.    January,  1900. 

The  Trail  of  Stevenson.  (Pari;  VI.  The  United  States.)  Clayton  Hamil- 
ton.   Bookman.    March,  1915. 

My  Autobiography.  S.  S.  McCIure.  (Visits  to  Stevenson  at  Saranac  Lake.) 
McClure's.     March,  1914. 

The  Singer  in  the  Snows.  Stephen  Chalmers.  Medical  Pickwick.  January, 
1915. 

(This  is  the  first  number  of  a  unique  magazine  published  for  a  brief  period 
at  Saranac  Lake.) 

Stevenson  and  Saranac.  Lawrason  Brown.  Pamphlet  reprint  from  a  cata- 
log of  an  exhibition  of  Stevenson  first  editions  at  the  Grolier  Club  in  No- 
vember, 1914. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  309 


ADIRONDACK  MAGAZINES 

Woods  and  Waters.     (A  Quarterly.) 

This  was  the  only  magazine  ever  devoted  exclusively  to  the  Adirondacks,  al- 
though it  occasionally  espoused  the  cause  of  game  protection  in  other  parts  of 
the  country.  It  was  published  by  Harry  V.  Radford  (see  Chapter  XVIII). 
The  earlier  issues  consisted  of  only  a  few  pages  without  any  cover,  but  it 
gradually  grew  in  size  and  importance,  and  came  to  have  several  thousand 
subscribers. 

It  was  started  in  1898  and  was  discontinued  in  1906. 

The  earlier  issues  are  very  scarce,  and  it  has  not  been  my  good  fortune  to 
procure  any.     This  collection  contains  the  following  numbers  only: 

Vol.  Ill  No.  4.  1900-01 

Vol.  IV  No.  2,  4.  1901-02 

Vol.  V  No.  2.  1902-03 

Vol.  VI  No.   1,  2,  3,  4.  1903-04 

Vol.  VII  No.   1,  2,  3,  4.  1904-05 

Stoddard's  Northern  Monthly. 

This  was  started  in  May,  1906,  by  S.  R.  Stoddard,  of  Glens  Falls,  the  guide- 
book author.  His  Magazine  was  intended  to  fill  the  place  left  vacant  by  the 
discontinuance  of  Woods  and  Waters,  but  it  did  not  prove  so  popular  nor  suc- 
cessful. The  monthly  did  not  have  behind  it  the  pushing  personality  or  the 
concentrated  enthusiasm  of  the  less  pretentious  quarterly.  Nominally  devoted 
to  the  Adirondacks,  a  major  portion  of  its  contents  consisted  of  extraneous 
matter — foreign  travel,  fiction,  poetry.  It  began,  moreover,  where  the  quarterly 
ended,  and  ended  where  the  quarterly  began.  The  first  number  was  a  full- 
fledged  magazine,  with  a  frontispiece  in  color;  then,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
second  year,  the  size  was  reduced  to  a  thin  duodecimo,  and  the  last  number  ap- 
peared in  September,  1908. 

This  collection  contains  a  complete  set  of  this  magazine: 
Vol.  I,  No.  1.     May,  1906  to  Vol.  IV,  No.  3.     September,  1908. 

Journal  of  the  Outdoor  Life. 

June,  1910. — A  Trudeau  Number,  "Commemorating  the  Completion  of  Twenty- 
five  years  of  Pioneer  Work." 

The  first  number  of  this  magazine  was  published  in  February,  1904.  It  was 
founded  and  edited  by  Dr.  Lawrason  Brown,  then  resident-physician  at  tha 
Trudeau  Sanatorium.  In  1909  it  was  taken  over  by  some  physicians  in  New 
York,  and  it  is  now  published  by  the  National  Tuberculosis  Association. 

Forest  Leaves. 

The  announcement  to  the  first  issue  of  this  little  magazine  says: 

"Forest   Leaves   will   be   a   quarterly  magazine.     It   will   be   published  by  the 

Sanitarium  Gabriels  at  Gabriels,  N.  Y.     It  will  be  written  by  friends  of  the 

Adirondacks.  to  be  read  by  friends  of  the  Adirondacks. 

"Forest  Leaves  will  be  stirred  by  the  breezes  of  the  northern  woods,  and  will 

whisper  of  the  healthful  delights  of  living  where  the  air  is  wafted  from  a  pure 

sky  to  a  clean  earth." 

It  was  started  in  December,  1903,  by  Sister  Mary  P.  H.  Kieran,  the  beloved 

head    of    Gabriels    Sanitarium,    near    Paul    Smith's.     Sister    Mary    made   the 


310  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

magazine  her  special  hobby  and  nursed  it  into  a  notable  success.  It  spread 
the  message  of  her  splendid  charity  abroad,  received  the  support  of  friendly 
advertisers,  and  offered  the  contributions  of  eminent  writers.  Sister  Mary 
herself  contributed,  especially  to  the  earlier  numbers,  many  articles  of  historical 
interest.  She  died  in  1914,  but  the  publication  of  the  magazine  has  been  con- 
tinued. 
This  collection  contains  the  following  numbers: 


Vol. 

I 

\ol. 

11 

Vol. 

IV 

No. 

2, 

Vol. 

X 

No. 

2, 

3, 

Vol. 

XI 

No. 

1, 

2, 

Vol. 

XII 

No. 

1, 

2, 

Vol. 

XV 

No. 

3, 

Complete,  bound, 

1903-1904 

Complete, 

1905-1906 

1907 

1913-1914 

1914-1915 

1915-1916 

1919 

1919-1920 

Vol.  XVI     No.  1, 


MAGAZINES  WHOSE  SCOPE  OFTEN  TOUCHES  THE  ADIRONDACKS 

Field  and  Stream. 

1901:  1902: 

June,  May, 

September,  Jime, 

October,  July, 

December.  August. 

While  this  collection  contains  the  above  issues  only,  nearly  every  number  of 
this  magazine  has  some  Adirondack  material  in  it,  and  for  years  it  ran  a 
special  Adirondack  Department,  which  was  started  by  Harry  V.  Radford. 

Outing. 

The  Sporting  Clubs  of  the  Adirondacks. — Seaver  A.  Miller.     August,  1898. 
This  magazine  also  contains  much  Adirondack  material  scattered  through  its 
many  issues  since   1882. 

The  Conser\-ationist. 
A  little  magazine  published  monthly  by  the  Conservation   Commission  since 
January  1,  1917. 


PUBLICATIONS  OF  THE  ASSOCIATION  FOR  THE  PROTECTION  OF  THE 
ADIRONDACKS 

(The  Annual  Reports  have  been  included  in  this  list,  because  they  are  es- 
sentially documents  of  historical  value  and  general  interest.  The  few  num- 
bers missing  from  this  collection  have  been  marked  with  an  asterisk.  A  com- 
plete file  is  in  the  New  York  Public  Library.) 

No.  1.*  Depew,     Chauncey     M.     National     Appalachian     Forest     Reserve. 

Speech  in  Senate  of  United  States.  June  7,  1902.     Pp.  8. 
No.  2.*  List  of  Officers  and  Members.     1903.     Pp.  48. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  311 

No.  3.  A  Plea  for  the  Adirondack  and  Catskill  Parks:  An  argument  for 
the  resumption,  by  the  State  of  New  York,  of  the  policy  of  acquir- 
ing lands  for  the  public  benefit  within  the  limits  of  the  forest  pre- 
serve.    1903.     Pp.  30. 

No.  4.  Hall,  E.  H.  The  Adirondack  Park:  A  sketch  of  the  origin,  the 
romantic  charms  and  the  practical  uses  of  the  Adirondack  Park, 
and  some  reasons  for  the  acquisition  of  land  and  reforestation  by 
the  State  of  New  York.     1903.     Pp.  32.     Illus. 

No.  5.  Suter,  H.  M.  Forest  Fires  in  the  Adirondacks  in  1903.  1904. 
Pp.  16.  Also  published  as  Circular  26,  United  States  Forestry  Di- 
vision. 

No.  6.*  The  Adirondack  Appropriation  Bill  of  1906:  Reasons  why  the 
State  should  make  liberal  provision  for  extending  the  Forest  Pre- 
serve within  the  Adirondack  and  Catskill  Parks.     1906.     Pp.  20. 

No.  7.  Annual  Report,  No.  5,  for  1906.  Including  an  opinion  by  Hon. 
Joseph  Choate  concerning  the  application  of  the  Forestry  Section 
of  the  State  Constitution  to  Reservoirs  on  State  Forest  Lands,  and 
press  comments  on  the  Constitutional  Amendment  proposed  by  the 
Legislature  of  1906.     1906.     Pp.  32. 

No.  8.  Letter  to  the  Members  of  the  Lei;islature  of  the  State  of  New  York : 
Concerning  the  proposed  Amendment  to  Section  7  of  Article  VII 
of  the  Constitution  relating  to  the  Forest  Preserve.     1907.     Pp.  16. 

No.  9.  A  Brief  Review  of  the  depredations  upon  the  Adirondack  forests  ac- 
complished or  attempted  during  the  past  few  years,  with  reference 
to  the  proposed  Amendment  to  .  .  .  the  Constitution  together  with 
a  statement  by  Governor  Hughes  .  .  .  letters  from  prominent  citi- 
zens, and  the  action  of  the  People's  Institute  of  New  York.  1907. 
Pp.  20. 

No.  10.     The  Legislature  of  the  State  of  New  York  for  1907.     1907.    Pp.  7. 

No.  11.*  Tinkering  with  the  Constitution:  Some  reasons  why  the  proposed 
Amendment  ,  ,  .  should  not  be  adopted;  together  with  letters  from 
Charles  Sprague  Smith  of  the  People's  Institute  of  New  York  and 
Dr.  Walter  B.  James  on  the  subject.     1907.    Pp.  12. 

No.  12.*  Agar,  John  G. :  Paper  read  at  the  convention  called  by  the 
Albany  Chamber  of  Commerce  .  .  .  March  14,  1907,  to  consider  the 
pending  Constitutional  Amendment  relating  to  the  construction  of 
dams  and  the  storage  of  waters  on  the  Forest  Preserve  for  public 
purposes.     1907.     Pp.  32. 

No.  13.  Sixth  annual  report  of  the  Hon.  Henry  E.  Howland,  President: 
Including  a  brief  summary  of  reasons  why  Section  7  of  Article  VII 
of  the  Constitution  should  not  be  amended,  extracts  from  prelim- 
inary reports  of  the  Association's  engineers,  and  testimony  concern- 
ing unsanitary  conditions  produced  by  storage  reservoirs  in  the 
Adirondacks.  '  1907.    Pp.  30. 


312  BIBLIOGRAPHY  §■ 

PUBLICATIONS   OF  THE   ASSOCIATION   FOR   THE   PROTECTION   OF 
THE  ADIRONDACKS 

No.  14.  Graves,  H.  S. :  Address  at  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  His- 
tory .  .  .  April  25,  1907,  giving  reasons  why  the  Constitution  of 
the  State  of  New  York  should  now  be  amended  so  as  to  permit 
Water  Storage  in  the  Adirondack  Park.     1907.         Pp.  10. 

No.  15.*  The  Conservation  of  the  Waters  and  Woods  of  the  State  of  New 
York:  An  address  delivered  May  10,  1907  ...  in  favor  of  a  com- 
prehensive plan  of  water  storage,  and  appropriations  for  extending 
the  Forest  Preserve  and  replanting.     1907.     Pp.  15. 

No.  16.  Seventh  Annual  Report  of  the  Hon.  Henry  E.  Rowland,  President: 
Including  draft  of  a  proposed  Constitutional  Amendment  permitting 
water  storage  on  State  Lands  outside  of  the  Adirondack  and  Catskill 
Parks;  extracts  from  messages  of  President  Roosevelt  and  Governor 
Hughes,  etc.     1908.     Pp.  20. 

No.  17.  Drowned  State  Lands  on  the  Saranac  River:  A  statement  of  some 
of  the  facts  involved  in  the  suit  .  .  .  against  the  Paul  Smith's  Elec- 
tric Light  and  Power  and  Railroad  Company  for  a  permanent 
injunction  restraining  the  defendant  from  taking  lands  belonging 
to  the  State  Forest  Preserve  and  destroying  the  timber  thereon. 
1908.     Pp.  22,  pi. 

No.  18.  Eighth  Annual  Report  of  the  Hon.  Henry  E.  Howland,  President: 
With  reference  to  the  Forest  Fires  of  1908  and  including  the  Con- 
stitution and  By-Laws  of  the  Association.     1909.     Pp.  17. 

No.  19.*  Ninth  Annual  Report  of  Henry  E.  Howland,  President:  With 
reference  to  Adirondack  Legislation  in  1910.  .  .  .  1910.     Pp.  28. 

No.  20.  Tenth  Annual  Report  of  tlie  President,  April  11,  1911:  With  a 
paper  on  the  Conservation  of  the  Woods  and  Waters  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks  presented  at  the  2d  National  Conservation  Congress  in  St. 
Paul,  Minn.,  Sept.  5-9,  1910.     1911.     Pp.  47. 

No.  21.  Eleventh  Annual  Report  of  the  President,  April  9,  1912:  With 
a  memorandum  of  conservation  legislation  proposed  in  the  Legis- 
lature of  1912.     1912.     Pp.  44. 

No.  22.  Twelfth  Annual  Report  of  the  President,  1913:  With  a  memo- 
randum of  Conservation  Legislation  proposed  in  the  Legislature  of 
1913.     1913.     Pp.  24. 

No.  23.     Tliirteenth  Annual  Report  of  the  President,  1914.     1914.     Pp.  26. 

No.  24.  State  Policy  of  Forest  and  Water  Power  Conser\-ation:  An  ad- 
dress by  John  G.  Agar  at  the  Annual  Meeting  of  the  Academy  of 
Political  Science  in  the  City  of  New  York,  November  20,  1914. 

No.  25.  Fourteenth  Annual  Report  of  the  President :  And  a  Supplemental 
Report  on  the  Revision  of  the  State  Constitution.     1915.     Pp.  39. 

No.  26.  Fifteenth  Annual  Report  of  the  President:  With  Supplementary 
Information.    1916.    Pp.  24. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  313 

No.  27.  Sixteenth  Annual  Report  of  the  President:  With  Supplementary 
Information.     1917.     Pp.  24. 

No.  28.  Land  Purchase  for  the  Forest  Preserve:  Su-gestion  for  a  State 
Policy.     The  Lake  Placid  Situation.     December,  1917.     Pp.  16. 

No.  29.  Seventh  Annual  Report  of  the  President:  And  a  Paper  on  Water 
Conservation  in  New  York.     1918.     Pp.  41. 

No.  30.  Eighteenth  Annual  Report  of  the  President:  With  Supplementary- 
Information.     1919.     Pp.  76. 


ADIRONDACK  PUBLICATIONS  OF  THE  NEW  YOKK  BOARD  OF  TRADE 
AND  TRANSPORTATION 

April,  1885.  The  Preservation  of  the  Adirondack  Forests  and  their  relation 
to  the  Commerce  of  the  State.  The  Harbor  of  New  York  City 
and  the  Canals  of  the  State  Jeopardized. 

April,  1893.  Joint  letter  to  Governor  Flower  protesting  against  the  ap- 
proval of  bill  to  amend  the  law  of  1885. 

June,  1894.  Proposed  amendment  to  the  Constitution  of  the  State  of  New 
York  to  preserve  its  forests,  with  reasons  why.  An  address  to  the 
Constitutional  Convention  of  1894. 

November,  1894.     Report  on  Constitutional  Amendment. 

February,  1900.  Letter  to  Legislature  and  for  general  distribution,  urging 
the  creation  of  a  single  headed  Forestry  Commission  in  place  of  the 
then  existing  Fisheries,  Game  and  Forestry  Commission. 

January,  1901.  A  proposed  bill  to  remodel  the  Forest,  Fish  and  Game  Com- 
mission to  consist  of  a  single  Commissioner  with  Deputy  Commis- 
sioners in  charge  of  several  departments  of  the  work. 

March,  1902.  Forest  Preservation.  Should  pending  amendments  to  Article 
Seven,  Section  VII  of  the  State  Constitution  relating  to  Forest 
Preserve  be  passed?  Argument  against  adoption  of  proposed 
amendment. 

March,  1903.  The  Water  Storage  Commission  Bill.  A  menace  to  the  People. 
Protest  against  Lewis  Bill. 

April,  1903.  Circular  letter.  Protest  against  the  Lewis  Water  Storage 
Commission  Bill  and  urging  the  adoption  of  the  Stevens  Substitute 
Bill  prepared  by  the  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation. 

April,  1903.  The  Water  Storage  Humbug.  The  amended  Lewis  Bill  a  bad 
measure.  Protest  against  the  Lewis  Bill  and  advocating  passage 
of  the  Stevens  Substitute  Bill. 

December,  1903.  The  State  Forests.  Forest  Fires;  Their  Danger  to  Life 
and  Property.  Systems  of  Protection  in  use  in  other  countries  and 
states.  Water  Power  should  be  preserved.  The  Water  Storage  Law 
should  be  enacted.  Waste  lands  should  be  reforested.  Official 
licensed  guides  should  be  created.  Repeal  Forest  Preservation  Con- 
demnation Law.     A  report  by  the  Committee  on  Forests. 


314  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

March,  1905,  Circular  entitled  "Lumber  Thieves  in  the  People's  Forests," 
approving  recommendation  of  Governor  Higgins  and  urging  him  to 
remove  from  office  officials  through  whose  neglect  lumber  was  cut 
or  removed  from  State  lands  and  urging  the  passage  of  amendments 
to  the  law  to  compel  the  prosecution  of  trespasses  and  theft. 

March,  1905.  Increased  Water  Supply  for  Greater  New  York.  A  State 
Commission  and  a  New  York  City  Water  Supply  Commission  advo- 
cated by  joint  report  by  Committee  on  Forests  and  Committee  on 
City  Affairs. 

February,  1907.     The  Water  Storage  Schemes  to  Enrich  the  Schemer. 

February,  1907.  Pending  Constitutional  Amendment  Relating  to  the  State 
Forest  Preserve.  Argument  against  proposed  amendment  to  Article 
Seven,  Section  VII  of  the  State  Constitution  introduced  by  Assem- 
blyman Merritt. 

April,  1907.  A  bill  for  water  power  development  introduced  by  Senator 
Fuller  and  Assemblyman  Jolin  Lord  O'Brian.  An  act  authorizing 
the  State  Water  Supply  Commission  to  devise  plans  for  the  pro- 
gressive development  under  State  management  and  control  and  mak- 
ing an  appropriation  therefor. 

April,  1909.  Water  Storage  in  the  New  York  State  Forest  Preserve.  Urg- 
ing the  amendment  to  the  Constitution  to  provide  for  the  limited 
area  of  the  Forest  Preserve  for  water  storage. 

April,  1910.  Report  on  bills  introduced  by  Senator  Cobb  and  Assemblyman 
Fowler  carrying  out  a  general  plan  of  development  of  water  storage 
within  and  outside  the  Forest  Preserve. 

July,  1911.  The  policy  of  New  York  State  in  reference  to  development  of 
water  powers. 

January,  1914.  Forests  and  water  storage  policy  of  the  State  of  New  York. 
A  letter  to  Governor  GljTin. 

August,  1915.  To  Elihu  Root,  President,  Constitutional  Convention,  Albany, 
protesting  against  pending  proposal  to  establish  a  Conservation  Com- 
mission of  nine  members. 

September,  1915.  Conservation  of  the  State's  natural  resources.  Analysis 
of  propositions  pending  in  the  Constitutional  Convention  relating  to 
the  State  and  Forest  Preserve. 

October,  1915.  What  every  voter  should  know.  A  momentous  question. 
Vote  for  Constitutional  amendment  No.  4. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  315 

BIBLIOGRAPHY— SECOND  PART 

The  author  is  deeply  indebted  to  Mr.  James  A.  McMillen  for  the  foUowing 
part  of  this  bibliography,  Mr.  McMillen  graciously  compiled  it  for  this  his- 
tory as  part  of  the  work  required  for  the  degree  of  Bachelor  of  Library 
Science  conferred  upon  him  in  1915  by  the  New  York  State  Library  School 
at  Albany.     He  is  now  Librarian  of  Washnigton  University,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

His  bibliography  was  made  supplemental  to  an  earlier  but  much  slighter 
one  compiled  by  Miss  C.  A.  Sherill,  also  a  Library  School  student,  and  pub- 
hshed  in  the  Annual  Report  of  the  Forest,  Fish  and  Game  Commission  for 
1898.  Mr.  McMillen's  far  more  extensive  and  thorough  work  involved  re- 
searches in  many  of  the  larger  public  libraries  of  the  East. 

Items  already  listed  in  the  Donaldson  Collection  have  not  been  repeated, 
so  that  Mr.  McMillen's  list  has  been  diminished  to  that  extent.  It  has  also 
been  re-arranged  under  separate  headings.  The  library  in  which  a  particular 
work  was  found  has  been  indicated  by  the  following  abbreviations : 

Y.  M.  A.  L Young  Men's  Association  Library  (Albany) 

L.   C Library  of  Cdngfess 

N.  Y.  Hist.  Soc New  York  Historical  Society  Library 

N.  Y.  P New  York  Public  Library 

N.  Y.  S New  York  State  Library 

N.  Y.  S.  Mus New  York  State  Museum 

N.  Y.  S.  Trav.  Lib.  New  York  State  Traveling  Libraries 

Prov.  Ath Providence  Athenaeum 

Univ.  Pa.  Lib University  of  Pennsylvania  Library 

U.  S.  D.  Agr U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture  Library 

Prov.  P.  L Providence  Public  Library 

B.  P.  L Boston  Public  Library 

The  following  explanations  are  offered  for  those  who  may  not  be  familiar 
with  the  many  abbreviations  used  in  bibliographic  listing: 

c   (before  dates)    copyright 

D 12mo. 

diagr diagram  , 

ed edition  or  editor 

F folio 

f  ac facsimile 

illus illustrated 

1 leaves,  when  pages  are  unnumbered 

n.  d no  date 

n.  p no  place  or  publisher 

n.  s new  series 

0 8vo. 

obi oblong 


316  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

P page 

pi plate 

port portrait 

pseud pseudonym 

Q 4to. 

S 16mo. 

ser series 

T 24mo. 

tab table 

V voliune 

Brackets  around  letters  or  numbers  indicate  additions  made  by  the  bibli- 
ographer which  do  not  appear  on  the  printed  page. 

Single  capitals  at  the  beginning  of  a  title  indicate  that  the  article  is  signed 
with  that  initial. 


BIOGRAPHY 

Atkinson,  Eleanor.  The  Soul  of  John  Brown;  Recollections  of  the  great 
abolitionist  by  his  son.  (American  Mag.,  v.  68:  633-43,  illus.,  Oct.,  1909.) 
Life  at  North  Elba,  p.  638.  N.  Y.  S. 

Bertin,  Georges.     1815-1832.     Joseph   Bonaparte  en   Amerique  .  .  .  Paris: 
Libraire  de  la  Nouvelle  Revue,  1893.     xv.  423  p.,  port.,  tab.     D. 
Chap.  II.     Tatonnements  du  d^but,  p.   [22]-54,  deals  with  his  estate  in  North- 
ern New  York  near  lake  now  known  as  Bonaparte  Lake.  N.  Y.  P. 

Brandreth,  Paul.     Old  Leviathan  of  Burnt  Mountain  Lake.     (Forest  &  Str., 
V.  80:[5]-6,  31,  illus.,  Jan.  4, 1913.) 
Account  of  day  spent  with  Reuben  Cary.  N.  Y.  P. 

Brandreth.  Paul.  Reuben  Gary — Forest  Patriarch;  A  Biographical  Sketch 
of  a  Well-Known  Adirondack  Guide.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  82:  821-22,  854- 
55,  port.,  June  20  &  27,  1914.)  N.  Y.  P. 

Channing,  William  Ellery.  Burial  of  John  Brown;  [A  Poem].  Boston, 
1860.     8  p.     0. 

Found  also  in:     Orcutt,   S.   History  of  Torrington,   Conn.     1878.     P.   413-19. 

Title  from  Villard. 

Dana,  Richard  H.,  Jr.  How  we  met  John  Brown.  (Atlantic,  v.  28:1-9, 
July,  1871.) 

Describes  a  trip  to  the  Adirondacks  in  1849.     Party  became  lost  in  tlie  woods 
and  later  received  shelter  at  the  home  of  John  Brown  in  North  Elba.     N.  Y.  S. 

Emerson,  Ralph  Waldo.     Journals  of  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson,  with  annota- 
tions; ed.  by  Edward  Waldo  Emerson  and  Waldo  Emerson  Forbes.     Bos- 
ton: Houghton,  Mifflin  Co.,  1909-14.     10  v.  pi.,  port.,  fac.     O. 
Notes  on  Adirondack  Trip  v.  9,  1856-1863,  p.  158-61.  L.  C. 

F.  M.  H.     A  Brave  Life.     (Overland,  n.  s.,  v.  6 :  360-67,  Oct.,  1885.) 

Life  of  the  wife  of  Capt.  John  Brown,  dealing  with  Adirondack  days  and  her 
later  experiences  and  burial  in  the  West.  N.  Y.  P. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  317 

Gould,  EUzabeth  Porter.  John  Brown  at  North  Elba.  (Outlook  v  ^a. 
909-11,  Nov.  21.  1896.)  ^  N  y  S 

Greenslet,  Ferris.  The  Life  of  Thomas  Bailey  Aldrich.  Boston:  Houohton 
Mifflin  Co.,  1908.     xi,  303  p.,  pi.,  port.     0. 

Chap.  VIII.     The  last  years,  1901-1907,  tell  of  his  last  days  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks  at  Saranac  Lake,  p.  216-27.  N   Y   «; 

Hamilton,  Clayton.  On  the  Trail  of  Stevenson:  VI.  The  United  States 
(Bookman,  v.  41:[29]-44,  illus.,  Mar.,  1915.) 

Life  at  Saranac  Lake,  Oct.  3,  18S7-April  16,  1888,  characterized  as  "the  most 
productive  period  of  Stevenson's  career  in  the  United  States,"  p.  38-42. 

N.  Y.  S. 

Higginson,  Thomas  Wentworth  A  Visit  to  John  Brown's  Household  in  1859. 
(In  his  Contemporaries.  1909.  p.  [219]-i3.)  Visit  made  to  family  in 
North  Elba  shortly  after  John  Brown's  execution.  Reprinted  from :  Red- 
path,  James.  The  Public  Life  of  Capt.  John  Brown.  1860.  chap.  V,  p. 
59-72.  N.  Y.  S.;  N.  Y.  P. 

John  Brown.     (Macmillan's  Mag.,  v.  58:443-52,  Oct.,  1888.) 

Life  at  North  Elba,  p.  446-47 ;  Burial  at  North  Elba,  p.  452.  N.  Y.  S. 

Knox,  M.  V.  B.  "Old  Mountain"  Phelps.  (Field  &  Str.,  v.  10:492-93, 
port.,  Sept.,  1905.) 

Sketch  of  the  life  of  Orson  Schofield  Phelps,  an  Adirondack  guide  beginning  in 
1849.  N.  Y.  P. 

Life  of  John  Brown :  A  Sketch,     n.p.,  n.d.     16  p.     T. 

Prepared   for   distribution   at   John   Brown's   Grave.     Gives  main   facts   about 
John  Brown's  life  at  North  Elba  and  his  burial.  N.  Y.  S. 

Literary  Landmarks  of  the  Adirondacks.     ( Outlook,  v.  90 :  105-07,  Sept.  19, 

1908.) 

"The  Spectator"  talks  of  the  Adirondack  life  of  Stevenson,  Aldrich,  Emerson, 

Lowell,  Warner,  and  others.  N.  Y.  S. 

Low,  Will  H.     A  Chronicle  of  Friendships,  1873-1900;  with  illustrations  by 

the  author  and  from  his  collections  .  .  .  507  p.,  pi.,  port.     0. 

Chap.  31.     A  Halt  Before  Saranac,  p,  376-86. 

Chap.  33.     The  Return  from  Saranac,  p.  306-406. 

Tells  of  Stevenson's  Winter  in  the  Adirondacks.  N.  Y.  S. 

Lyman,   Henry  L.     Oration  at  North  Elba,  N.  Y.,  July  21,  1896.     (New 

York    (St.).     Fisheries,  Game  and  Forest  Commission.     Annual  Report, 

1897:483-94,  pi.) 

Delivered  at  the  dedication  of  the  John  Brown  Farm  as  a  State  Park.     Chiefly 

on  Brown's  life  but  contains  many  references  to  his  life  at  North  Elba.  N.  Y.  S. 
McClure,  S.  S.     My  Autobiography  [Chap.  VI.]     (McClure's  Mag.,  v.  42: 

95-108,  illus.,  Mar.,  1914.) 

Robert  Louis  Stevenson  in  the  Adirondacks,  p.  102-04.  N.  Y.  S. 

Mather,  Fred.     Men  I  Have  Fished  With :  Sketches  of  Character  and  Incident 

With  Rod  and  Gun,  From  Childhood  to  Manhood.  .  .  .  New  York:  Forest 

&  Str.  Pub.  Co.,  1897.  371  p.,  Port.  0.  (Forest  and  Stream  Librarj--). 
Pp.  54-78  treat  of  experiences  in  the  Adirondacks.  N.  \.  P. 


318  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Nichols,  May  Ellis.     An  Adirondack  Pilgrimage.     (National  Mag.  (Best.),  v. 

18:  476-79,  illus.,  July,  1903.) 

Pilgrimage  to  the  home  of  John  Brown  at  North  Elba  and  the  story  of  the 

establishment  of  the  home  as  a  memorial.  N.  Y.  S. 

Orcutt,  Rev.  Samuel.     History  of  Torrington,  Connecticut,  from  its  First 

Settlement  in  1737,  with  Biographies  and  Genealogies.     Albany:  J.  Mun- 

sell,  1878.     O. 

John  Brown  at  North  Elba,  p.  335-39. 

Channing,  William  E.     The  Burial  of  John  Brown;    [a  poem],  p.  413-19. 

N.  Y.  S. 

Radford,    Harry   V.     Adirondack   Murray:    A   Biographical    Appreciation. 
New  York:  Broadway  Pub.  Co.,  1905.     84  p.,  pi.,  port.     T. 
First  printed  in  Woods  &  Waters,  Autumn  No.,  1904.  Prov.  Ath. 

Radford,  Harry  V.,  The  "Adirondack"  Murray  of  Today.     (Field  &  Str., 
V.  6:  238-39,  port.,  Jiuie,  1901.)  N.  Y.  P. 

Roosevelt,  Theodore.     Theodore  Roosevelt:  An  Autobiography.     New  York: 
Macmillan,  1913.     xii,  647  p.,  illus..  pi.,  port.     0. 

Tells  of  receipt  of  news  of  Pres.  McKinley's  being  at  the  point  of  death  when 
he  himself  was  near  the  summit  of  Mt.  Tahawus  and  of  his  hurried  departure 
for  the  nearest  R.  R.  station  40  miles  distant,  see  379.  First  printed  in  the 
Outlook.  N.  Y.  P. 

Sanborn,  F.  B.     Recollections  of  Seventy  Years.     Boston:   R.   G.  Badger, 
1909.     2  v.,  pi.,  port.,  fac.     0. 
Concord  and  North  Elba,  v.   1,  chap.  IV,  p.   lOS-33.  L.  C. 

Shaw,  Albert.     John  Brown  in  the  Adirondacks.     (Am.  Rev.  of  Revs.,  v.  14: 
311-17,  illus.,  Sept.,  1896.) 

Describes  the  Brown  homestead  and  the  life  of  John  Brown  in  the  Adirondacks. 

N.  Y.  S. 

Spears,    Raj-mond    S.     That   Adirondack    **Kid."     (Forest   &    Str.,   v.    53: 
227,  Sept.  16,  1899.)  N.  Y.  P. 


HISTORY 

Blankman,  Ed.  G.  Geography  [and  history]  of  St.  Lawrence  Co.,  New  York. 
Canton,  N.  Y.,  1898. 

Boscq  de  Beaumont,  Gaston  du.     Aux  lacs  frangais  des  Adirondacks  (fitats- 
Unis  d'Amerique.)      (Tour  du  Monde,  n.s.,  v.  7:[301]-12,  illus.,  1901.) 
Trip  made  in  1899,  interesting  because  it  gives  the  impressions  received  by  a 
French  traveler.  N.  Y.  P. 

Bruce,  Wallace.  The  Hudson:  Three  Centuries  of  History,  Romance  and 
Invention.  New  York:  Brj-ant  Union  Co.,  [c  1913.]  223  p.,  illus.,  pi., 
maps.     D. 

Saratoga  Springs  to  the  Adirondacks,  p.  191-96. 
Lake  George  to  the  Adirondacks,  p.  197-200. 
Source  of  the  Hudson,  p.  201-09.  N.  Y.  P. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  319 

Curtis,  Gates,  ed.  Our  Country  and  Its  People;  A  Memorial  Record  of  St 
Lawrence  County,  New  York.  Syracuse,  N.  Y.:  D.  Mason  &  Co.,  1894 
720,  372  p.,  illus.,  port.,  map.     0.  X   y   S 

[Durant,  Samuel  W.,  &  Pierce,  Henry  B.]  1749.  History  of  St.  Lawrence 
Co.,  New  York,  with  Illustrations  and  Biographical  Sketches  of  some  of  its 
Prominent  Men  and  Pioneers.  Philadelphia:  L.  H.  Everts  &  Co.,  1878. 
521  p.,  illus.,  pi.,  port.,  map.     F.  L  C. 

Hardin,  George  [Anson],  ed.  History  of  Herkimer  County,  New  York,  illus- 
trated with  Portraits  of  many  of  its  Citizens;  ed.  by  George  A.  Hardm  as- 
sisted by  Frank  H.  Willard.  S>Tacuse,  N.  Y.;  D.  Mason  &  Co.,  1893.  550 
p.,  11,  276  p.,  illus.,  port.,  maps.     Q.  N  Y.  S. 

History  of  Herkimer  County,  N.  Y.  .  .  .  New  York:  F.  W.  Beers  &  Co., 
1879.     289  p.,  illus.,  pi.,  port.,  maps.    F. 
At  head  of  title:     1791.  N.  Y.  S. 

How  Old  Forge  (N.  Y.)  Was  Named.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  72:892,  June  5, 
1909.) 

Short  note  on  the  forge  being  first  put  into  operation  by  John  Brown  (1734- 
1803)   early  in  the  19th  century.  N.  Y.  P. 

S.  Incidents  of  Adirondack  History.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  48:323-24,  Apr. 
24,  1897.)  N.  Y.  P. 

John  Brown  Farm.  (New  York  (St.).  Fisheries,  Game  and  Forest  Com- 
mission.    Annual  Report,  1896:470-83,  pi.) 

A  review  of  the  movement  to  purchase  farm  for  the  State  and  of  its  final  dedi- 
cation as  State  property.  Contains  a  long  quotation  from  T.  W.  Higginson's 
account  of  a  visit  to  liome  of  Jolm  Brown  shortly  after  Brown's  execution. 

N.  Y.  S. 

Lee,  Francis  W.     John  Brown's  Grave.     (Garden  &  Forest,  v.  9:108-09, 

Mar.  11,  1896.) 

Account  of  the  cutting  of  the  inscription — "John  Brown  1859" — on  the  boulder 

which  marks  the  grave.  N.  Y.  P.;  N.  Y.  S. 

Lincoln,   Charles   Z.     The    Constitutional  History  of  New  York  from  the 

Beginning  of  the  Colonial  Period  to  the  year  1905,  showing  the  origin, 

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"Another  road  to  the  St.  Lawrence  was  by  the  Fulton  Chain  of  Lakes,  Racquette 
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Followed  by  a  Memorial  from  the  City  of  New  York  and  the  Abstract  of  the 
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SCIENTIFIC 

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Eckel,  Edwnn  C.     Pyrite  deposits  of  the  Western  Adirondaeks,  New  York. 

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passing  through  Schenectady,  Saratoga.  Hamilton  and  St.  Lawrence  Counties, 
with  notes  on  the  resources  of  region— the  Forest,  Agriculture,  Mineral  and 
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Garnet  Mines  in  the  Adirondacks.  (Eng.  &  Min.  Jour.,  v.  68:461,  illus., 
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Description  taken  from  Verplanck  Colvin's  Report  on  the  New  York  Adiron- 
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Graphite  in  the  Adirondacks.  (Eng.  &  Min.  Jour.,  v.  77:844,  May  26, 
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Taken  from  J.  F.  Kemp's  article  in  Bulletin  225  of  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey. 

N.  Y  S. 

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Hitchcock,  C.  H.  Glacial  Phenomena  of  the  Adirondack  Region.  (Inde- 
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324  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

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Div.  Engineer,  Western  Div.;  Report  of  S.  WTiipple,  Div.  Engineer,  Eastern  Div. 

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Contents:     Geological    Formations:    Mountains   proper   and   the   Western   Pla- 
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Reply  to  letter  of  W.  M.  Davis,  published  in  same  numlnT  of  the  magazine. 

N.  Y.  S. 

Kemp,  James  Furman.  Pro-camhrian  Sediments  in  the  Adirondacks. 
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Abstract  of  this  paper  is  in  Sci.  Am.  Suppl.,  v.  40:  20489,  June  30,  1900;  also 
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Kemp,  James  Furman.     The  Pre-cambrian  Topography  of  the  Adirondacks. 
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Abstract  of  a  paper  read  before  the  Academy  N.  \'.  S. 

Kemp,  James  Furman.     Preliminary  Report  on  the  Geology  of  Essex  County. 

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Latter  contains  "a   review   and   bibliography  of  the   Eastern   Adirondacks." 

N.  Y.  S. 

Kemp,  James  Furman.  Recent  progress  in  investigation  of  the  Geology  of 
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X.  Y.  S. 


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An  abstract  of  this  paper  may  be  found  in  Geol.  See.  of  Amer.  Bull.,  v.  7:  1."), 
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Kemp,    James   Furman,    &    Newland,    D.    H.     Preliminary    Report   on    the 
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Kemp,  James  Furman,  Newland,  D.  H.,  &  Hill,  B.  F.  Preliminary  Report 
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Continuation  of  report  made  by  ilessrs.  Kemp  and  Newland  and  found  in  State 
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Lindgren,    Waldemar.     Mineral    Deposits.     New    York :  McGraw-Hill    Book 
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Maynard,  George  W.     The  Iron  Ore  of  Lake  Champlain,  United  States  of 
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i 


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GAME 

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N.  Y.  P. 
:  676-77, 

V.     (Forest  &  Str., 

V. 

N.  Y.  P. 
67 :  736, 

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Near   "one  of  the  most  beautiful   chains  of   lak'es  -in   Northern   New  York." 

N.  Y.  P. 

Webber,  C[harles]  W[ilkins].     The  Hunter  Naturalist:  Romance  of  Sport- 
ing;   or.    Wild    Scenes    and    Wild    Hunters.     Philadelphia:    Lippincott, 
Grambo  &  Co.,  1852.     610  p.,  illus.,  pi.  0. 
Also  published  under  title:    Wild  Scenes  and  Wild  Hunters. 
Chap.  XX.     A  Bird's-eye  View  of  the  Speculator  [Mt.  Speculator] :  Wild  Lakes 
of  the  Adirondack   (sic),  p,  472-81. 

Chap.  XXI.     Trolling  in  June  [on  Round  Lake  and  Lake  Pleasant],  p.  482-91. 
Chap.  XXII.     A  Night  Hunt  up  the  Cungamunck,  p.  492-502. 
Chap.  XXIII.     Trouting  on  Jessup's  River,  p.  503-14. 

Chap.  XXIV.     Anecdotes  of  Moose  and  Deer  Among  Northern  Lakes,  p.  515-35. 

L.C. 

Webber,    C[harles]    W[ilkins].     Romance    of   Natural    History:    or.    Wild 
Scenes  and  Wild  Hunters.     London:   Nelson  &   Sons,  1852.     0. 
First  published  as  The  Hunter  Naturalist. 
Chap.  17.     Wild  Lakes  of  the  Adirondack. 
Chap.  18.     Trouting  in  Jessup's  River.  Title  from  Westwood  &  Satcheli 

Webber,  C[harles]  W[ilkins].  Wild  Scenes  and  Wild  Hunters;  or.  The 
Romance  of  Sporting.  Philadelphia:  Claxton,  Renisen  &  Haffelfinger, 
1875.     610  p.,  illus.,  pi.  D. 

Also  published  under  the  titles:    The  Hunter  Naturalist;  Romance  of  Natural 
History;  Wild  Scenes  and  Wild  Hunters  of  the  World. 

Chaps.  XX-XXIV,  p.  472-535.  concern  the  Adirondacks.     For  titles  of  these 
chapters  see  entry  under  The  Hunter  Naturalist.  L.  C. 

Webber,    C[harles]    W[ilkins].     Wild    Scenes    and    Wild    Hunters    of    the 

World.     Philadelphia:  J.  W.  Bradley,  1852.     610.     p.,  illus.,  pi.  0. 

Same  as  Wild  Scenes  and  Wild  Hunters,  which  see  for  contents  note.  L.  C. 

West,  Rodney.     Deer  Hounding  Again,   Or  Not?     (Forest  &   Str.,  v.  75: 

975  &  1059  Ded.  17  &  31,  1910.)  N.  Y.  P. 

West,  Rodney.     A  Good  Law  for  the  Deer.     (Field  &   Str.,  v.  12: [967], 

Mar.  1908.) 

Concerning  the  Adirondack  Deer  Law.  N.  Y.  P. 

West,  Rodney.     How  Adirondack  Deer  Wintered.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  74: 

498,  Mar.  26,  1910.)  N.Y.P. 

Westervelt,  Dr.  V.  R.     Adirondack  Elk  Increasing.     (Field  &  Str.,  v.  12: 

1069-70,  Apr.,  1908. )  N.  Y.  P. 

Westover,  M.  F.     Moose  and  the  Adirondacks.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  71 :  254, 

illus.,  Aug.  15,  1908.)  N.Y.P. 

Withington,  L.  A.     A  Deer  Hunt  in  the  Adirondacks.     (Field  &  Str.,  v.  8: 

[545]-47,  illus.,  Nov.,  1903.)  N.Y.P. 


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A  review  of  the  season's  hunt.  \r  v  t> 

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FISHING 

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Angling  Reminiscences.  ^-  ^-  ^■ 
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Fishing  at  Cranberry  Lake.  ^-  ^-  ^- 


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i 


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At  Raquette  Lake.  .,  ,,  ^ 

^  Js .  Y.  P. 

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Being  the  3d  Annual  Report  of  the  Director  of  the  State  College  of  Forestry  at 

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Axton,  N.  Y.  N.  Y.  S. 

Forestry  for  the  New  York  Preserve.  (Forester,  v.  6:164-65,  July,  1900.) 
Tells  of  work  planned  by  Division  of  Forestry  of  the  U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agricul- 
ture. N.  Y.  P. 

Fox,  W[illiam]  F[reeman].  Forest  Fires  of  1903.  Albany,  1904,  55  p., 
pi.  Q.  (New  York  (St.).  Forest,  Fish  and  Game  Commission.  Bulle- 
tin [unnumbered.] ) 

Refers  to  the  New  York  State  Forest  Preserves  of  the  Adirondacks  and  Catskill 
regions.  Title  from  Hasse. 

Fox,  William  F[rceman].  A  History  of  the  Lumber  Industry  in  the  State 
of  New  York.  Washington,  1902:  59  p.,  pi.  0.  (U.  S.  Forestry  Bur. 
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Same.     (New  York  (St.).     Forest,  Fish  and  Game  Commission.     An- 
nual Report,  1900 :  237-305,  pi.) 
Almost  entirely  devoted  to  the  North  Woods.  N.  Y.  S. 

Gaylord,   F.   A.     Forestry   and   Forest    Resources   in   New    York.     Albany, 
1912.    58    p.,    pi.     0.     (New    York     (St.).     Conservation    Commission. 
Bull.  1.) 
Much  general  and  statistical  material  concerning  the  Adirondack  Forest. 

Graves,  Henry  S.     Practical  Forestry  in  the  Adirondacks,  Washington,  1899. 
85  p.,  pi.,  maps.     0.     (U.  S.  Forestry  Div.  Bulletin,  No.  26.) 
"An   account  of   the   general   conditions   which   govern    forest   management   in 
the  Adirondacks."     Preface.  N.  Y.  S. 

Hoffman,  F.  von.  The  Adirondack  Forests.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  58:189, 
Mar.  8,  1902.)  N.  Y.  P. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  345 

Hosmer,  Ralph  S.,  &  Bruce,  Eugene  S.  A  Forest  Working  PInn  for  the 
Townships  5,  6  and  41,  Totten  and  Crossfield  Purchase,  Hamilton  County, 
New  York  State  Forest  Preserve.  (New  York  (St.).  Forest,  Fish  and 
Game  Commission.  Annual  Reports,  1902-03.  1904.  p.  373-45G,  pi., 
fald.  map.) 

"A  definite  and  comprehensive  plan  by  which  a  certain  part  of  the  Adirondack 
Forest  Preserve  may  he  managed  in  accordance  with  the  principles  of  practical 
forestry  " — Introd.  X  y  S, 

Hosmer,  Ralph  S.,  &  Bruce,  Eugene  S.  A  Forest  Working  Plan  for  Town- 
ship 40,  Totten  and  Crosstield  Purchase,  Hamilton  County,  New  York 
State  Forest  Preserve;  preceded  hy:  A  Discussion  of  .Conservative  Lum- 
bering and  -the  Water  Supply,  by  Frederick  H.  Newell.  Washington, 
1901,  64  p.,  pL.maps.     0.  (U.  S.  Forestry  Div.  Bull.  No.  30.) 

Same.     (New  York  (St.).     Forest,  Fish  and  Game  Commission.     An- 

nual.Report,  1900 :  [157] -236,  pi.,  maps.)  N  Y.  S. 

Hough,  Franklin  B[enjamin].  Address  by  Dr.  Franklin  B.  Hough,  on 
State  Forest  Management,  before  the  Committee  on  the  Preservation  of 
the  Adirondack  Forests  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  the  State  of 
New  York,  January  14,  1884,  New  York,  1884.     13  p.    0.  L.  C. 

Hough,  Franklin  B[enjamin].  A  Catalogue  of  the  Indigenous,  Naturalized, 
and  Filicoid  Plants,  of  Lewis  County;  Arranged  according  to  the  Natural 
Method  adopted  by  Professor  Torrey,  in  the  State  Catalogue.  (In  the 
59th  Annual  Report  of -the  Regents  of  the  University  of  the  State  of  New 
York,  Sen.  doc.  1846,  No.  71,  p.  [249] -83.)  Also  separately  printed,  Al- 
bany, 1846.     35  p.     0.  N.  Y.  S. 

Hough,  Franklin,  B[enjamin].  Report  upon  Forestry  Prepared  under  the 
Direction  of  the  Commissioner  of  Agriculture,  in  Pursuance  of  an  Act  of 
Congress  Approved  August  15,  1876.  Washington:  Govt.  Print.  Off., 
187&-82.     4  V.     0. 

The  lumber  region  of  Northern  New  York;  The  proposed  Adirondack  Park; 
Glens  Falls  and  the  lutnber  interests  of  the  upper  Hudson,  [v.  1],  p    436-41. 

N.  Y.  S 

Howard,  William  G.  Forest  Fires.  Albany,  1914.  52  p.  pi.  0.  (New 
York    (St.).     Conservation   Commission.     Bull.  10.) 

A  general  bulletin 'on  the  subject  but  one  containing  more  especial  information 

applicable  to  the  Jireat  forest  preserves  of  the  Adirondack  and  Catskill  regions. 

^  »  r  N.Y.S. 

Jordan,  D.  A.     Concerning  the  Adirondack  Forests.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  58: 

104,  Feb.  8,  1902.)  ^'•^'^• 

Juvenal,  pseud.     Lumbering  in  the  Adirondacks.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.   67: 

939,  illus.,  Dee.  15,  1906.)  N.  Y.  P. 

Kirkhara,  Stanton  Davis.     East  and  West:  Comparative  Studies  of  Nature 

in  Eastern  and  Western  States.    New  York:  Putnams,  1911.    x  p.,  i  1., 

280  p.  pi.  D. 

Chap.  ITI.    The  Wilderness,  p.  42-57. 


346  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Chap.  IV.  Still-paddling,  p.  58-70.  Descriptions  of  Adirondack  Forest  and 
Lakes.  N.  Y.S. 

Knecbtel,  A.  Forest  Fires  in  the  Adirondacks.  (Forestry  Quar.  v.  2:-2- 
13,  Nov.,  1903.)  L.C. 

Kneehtel,  A.  Natural  Reproduction  in  the  Adirondack  Forests.  (For- 
estry Quar.,  V.  1:50-55,  Jan.,  1903.)  L.C. 

Leggett,  Edward  H.  The  State's  Title  to  Lands  in  the  Forest  Preserve. 
(New  York  (St.).  Fisheries,  Game  and  Forest  Commission.  Annual  Re- 
port, 1897:438-54.) 

Review  of  liti,2;ation  over  Adirondack  forest  lands  in  the  New  Yorlc  courts  in 
1897.  N.  Y.  S 

McCIurc,  David.     Speech  on  the  Proposed  Amendment  to  the  New  York 
State  Constitution  relative  to  the  Forest  Preserve.     (In:  N.  Y.  State  Con- 
stitutional Conv..  1894.     Revised  Record,  v.  4:124-63,  pub.  in  1900.) 
Includes  discussion.  N.  Y.  S. 

New    York    Board    of    Trade    and    Transportation.     Forestry    Committee. 

Memorial  Addressed  to  Legislature  of  the  State  of  New  York  setting  fortli 

the  convincing  reasons  for  the  rejection  of  the  measures  to  open  the  State 

Forest  Preserve  to  the  lumberman.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  58:224-25,  Mar. 

22,1902.)  N.Y.  P. 

New  York  State  Forestry  Association.  Bulletin,  July,  1914-date,  v.  1,  No. 
1— [Syracuse  N.  Y.]  1914-date.     0. 

A  quarterly  magazine  devoted  to  the  "various  phases  of  forestry  activity  in  the 
Empire  State."  Chief  purpose  is  to  stimulate  interest  in  the  protection  of 
the  great  State  Forest  Preserves  in  the  Adirondacks  and  the  Catskills.     N.  Y.  S. 

The  Nortli  Woods.     (Garden  &  Forest,  v.  10:  21,  Jan.  20,  1897.) 

Editorial    comment    upon    Governor    Black's   message    upon    the    Adirondacks. 

N.  Y  P 

Parker,  Clarence  L.  Adirondack  Forest  Protection.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  68: 
334-35,  Mar.  2,  1907.) 

Tteviews  recent  attempts  at  Forest  Preserve  Legislation  in  the  New  York  Legis- 
lature. N.  Y.  P. 

Peck,  Charles  H.  Report  on  the  Character  of  Forests  and  Soil  of  Certain 
Tracts  of  State  Lands  in  the  Adirondack  Region.  (In:  N.  Y.  State  Land 
Survey  Report  [for  1896].  1897.  p.  [517] -53,  this  report  being  Sen. 
Doc,  1898,  No.  54.)  N.  Y  S. 

Pettis,  C.  R.  Possible  Advantages  to  the  State  of  New  York  by  Opening 
the  Forest  Preserves.  (Society  of  Amer.  Foresters.  Proc,  v.  8:197- 
201,  July,  1913.) 

Reviews  legislation  concerning  Adirondack  Preserve  and  shows  that  a  rigid 
construction  of  Constitution  is  not  best  for  proper  treatment  of  the  State 
Forests.  L  C. 

Pinchot,  Gifford.  The  Adirondack  Spruce;  A  Study  of  the  Forest  in 
Ne-ha-sa-ne  Park  with  tables  of  volume  and  yield  and  a  working  plan  for 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  347 

conservative  lumbering.  New  York:  The  Critic  Co.,  1898.     [ix],  157  p., 

pi.     map.     T.  j^  Y.  S. 

Pincbot,   Giftord.     Forest  Conservation   in   tbe  Adirondacks.     [New   York 
1911.]     10  p.  0. 

Title  from  caption.  j^t  y.  p. 

Pincbot,    Gifford.     Pincbot   on   tbe   Adirondack   Problem.     (Forest   &    Str., 

V.  77:  837-39,  856,  Dee.  9,  1911.) 

Also  in  Field  &  Sir.,  v.  16:[949]-55,  Jan.,  1912,  with  the  title:    The  Adirondack 

Forest  Problem. 

This  is  a  report  made  to  the  Campfire  Club  of  America.  N.  Y.  P. 

Pincbot,  Gifford.     Public  or  Private  Interests?     (Outlook,  v.  100:729-31, 

Mar.  30,  1912.) 

A  plea  for  Forest  Conservation  in  the  Adirondacks.  N.  Y.  S. 

Pincbot,  Gifford.  Working  Plans  for  tbe  New  York  Forest  Preserve.  (Out- 
ing, V.  36 :  89-90,  Apr.,  1900.)  N.  Y  S. 
Price,  Overton  W.     Studying  tbe  Adirondack  Forest.     (Forester,  v.  6:19- 

20,  Jan.,  1900.) 

Account  of  work  done  on  a  working  plan  for  the  tract  of  the  St.  Regis  Paper 

Co.,  situated  in  Franklin  Co.,  Now  Y'ork.  N.  Y.  P. 

Price,   Overton   W.     Working   Plans  for  tbe   State   Preserve.     (New   York 
(St.).     Fisberies,    Game    and    Forest    Commission.     Annual    Report,   1898: 
418-422,  pi.) 

Discussion  of  a  plan  for  the  forest  management  of  Township  40,  Totten  &  Cross- 
field  Purchase,  then  being  drawn  up  by  the  U.  S.  Forestry  Division.         N.  Y.  S. 

[Pringle,  C.  G.]  [Extracts  from  Report  upon  tbe  Forests  of  Northern  New 
York].  (In:  U.  S.  Census  Off.  lOtb  Census  of  tbe  U.  S.  (1880),  v.  9: 
501-06,  Pub.  1884.) 

Forms  part  of  the  special  report  on  the  Forests  of  North  America   (exclusive 
of  Mexico),  by  Charles  S.  Sargent.  N.  Y.  S. 

Purdy,  Fred  Leslie.  Adirondack  Fires  and  Preserves.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v. 
72  i  14-15,  Jan.  2,  1900.)  ^'-  Y-  P. 

Reynolds,  Cuyler.  Forest  Preservation  in  tbe  State  of  New  York.  (New 
Eng.  Mag.,  n.  s.,  v.  19:  203-16,  illus.,  Oct.,  1898.) 

New  Y'ork's  efforts  to  preserve  the  Adirondacks:    Importance  of  region  to  the 
State  and  the  lumber  industry  of  the  North  Woods.  N.  Y.  S. 

Save  tbe  Adirondacks.      (Outlook,  v.  81: 1053-54,  Dec.  30,  1905.) 

Editorial  calling  attention  to  spoliation  of  the  Adirondack  forests  by  lumbering 
operations.  >>.  Y.  fe. 

Scbwartz,  G.  Frederick.  Tbe  Adirondacks  are  a  .Park,  not  a  Timber  Re- 
serve:    A  Letter  .  .  .   (Forestry  &  Irrigation,  v.  13:  [601],  Nov.,  1907.) 

N.  Y.  S. 

Sears,  Jobn  H.  Notes  on  tbe  Forest  Trees  of  Essex,  Clinton  and  Franklin 
Counties,  New  York.  (Essex  Inst.,  Salem,  Mass.  Bull.,  v.  13:174-88, 
1882.) 

Title  from  a  bibliography  of  Forestry  in  Annual  Report  of  New  York  St.  Forest 
Com'n.,  1885,  and  from  Royal  Soc.  Cat.  Set.  pap. 


348  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Shurter,  Joseph  W.  Gamo  Preserves  and  Adirondack  Ruin.  (Forest  & 
Str.,  V.  61 :  46,  July  18,  1903.)  N.  Y.  P. 

Spears,  E[ldridge]   A.     Forest  Fires  in  the  Adirondaeks.     (Forest  &  Str., 
V.  71:138,  July  25,  1908.) 
Reviews  fires  of  season  and  discusses  means  of  protection.  N.  Y.  P. 

Spears,  John  R.  The  Destruction  of  the  Adirondack  Forests.  (Forest  & 
Str.,  V.  58 :  144-45,  Feb.  22,  1902.)  N.  Y.  P. 

Spears,  Raymond  S.  Adirondack  Notes.  (Field  &  Str.,  v.  11 :  505-06,  Sept., 
1906.) 

A    criticism   of   the   management   of   the   Cornell    College    of    Forestry    Tract. 

N.  Y.  P. 

Spears,  Raymond  S.  Adirondack  Ruin.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  60:465,  June 
13,  1903.) 

Showing  that  the  origin  of  some  forest  fires  is  traceable  to  spite  against  the 
holders  of  private  preserves.  N.  Y.  P. 

Spears,  Raymond   S.     Adirondack  Timber  Thefts.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  70: 

538,  Apr.  4,  1908.) 

Comment  on  the  conviction  of  Klock  &  Gaylord.  N.  Y.  P. 

Spears,   Raymond    S.     Adirondack    Trails.     (Forest   &    Str.,   v.   51:22-23, 

July  9,  1898.)  N.Y.P. 

Spears,   Raj-mond    S.     Prof.    Fernow   and    the    Adirondaeks.     (Outlook,   v. 

85 :  815-16,  April  6,  1906.) 

Letter  dealing  with  the  experiments  of  the  State  College  of   Forestry  in  the 

Adirondaeks.  N.  Y.  S. 

Sterling,  E[mest]  A.  A  Definite  State  Policy:  New  York  State's  Progress 
in  Reforesting  the  Adirondraeks.  (Amer.  Forestry,  v.  18:421-30,  illus., 
July,  1912.)  N.Y.S. 

Suter,  H.  M.  Forest  Fires  in  Adirondaeks  in  1903.  Washington,  1904. 
15  p.,  map.     0.     (U.  S.  Forestry  Bur.  [circular  26].) 

Also  published  as  Publication,  No.  5,  of  the  Association  for  the  Protection  of 
the  Adirondaeks.  N.  Y.  S. 

To  Flood  Adirondack  Lands.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  68:  [87],  Jan.  19,  1907.) 
Editorial  showing  the  dangers  of  the  water  storage  project.  N.  Y.  P. 

The  Water  Storage  Grab  in  New  York  State.     (Outlook,  v.  85:  867-68,  Apr. 
20,  1907.) 
Editorial  opposing  the  proposed  storage  reservoirs  in  the  Adirondaeks.     N.  Y.  S. 

Whitford,  David  E.  Water  Supply  from  the  Adirondack  Forest.  (In: 
N.  Y.  State  Engineer  and  Surveyor.  Annual  Report,  1898:  [445]-566, 
diagr.)  N.Y.S. 

Wolcott,  W.  E.  The  Adirondack  Forest.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  58:65,  Jan. 
25,1902.)  N.Y.P 

Wolcott,  W.  E.  Camps  on  State  Lands.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  61:223,  Sept. 
19,1903.) 

Policy  of  State  concerning  those  who  have  erected  camps  on  the  State's  Adiron- 
dack lands.  N.  Y.  P. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  349 


MISCELLANEOUS 

Adam,  Rev.  Samuel  F.     Adirondacks.     (Outlook,  v.  85:625-620    Mar    16 
1907.)  ■       ' 

Communication    which   attempts   to   prove   that   storage   project   would   bo   an 
effective  means  of  preventing  forest  fires.  N  Y  S 

Adirondack  Camps.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  70:  [847],  May  30,  1908.) 

Editorial.  N  Y  P 

Adirondack  Guides  Association.     Proceedings  of  annual  meeting,  1894-date. 
(Forest  &  Str.,  1894-date.) 

Meeting  is  held  at  Saranac  Lake  in  January  or  February  of  each  year.     Ac- 
count of  the  proceedings  is  usually  found  in  next  issue  of  Forest  and  Stream. 

N.  Y.  P. 

Adirondack  Land  Sales.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  65:  [385],  Nov.  11,  1905.) 
Editorial.  j^t  y.  p. 

An   Adirondack   Night   Experience.     (Forest  &   Str.,  v.   51:223,   Sept.   17, 

1898.) 

Still-hunting  Experiences.  N.  Y.  P. 

Adirondack  Preserves.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  53:47,  July  15,  1899.) 

Describes  the  Rockefeller  Preserves.  N.  Y.  P. 

Adirondack  Preserves.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  60:  [161],  Feb.  28,  1903.) 

Editorial  commending  care  taken  of  the  Private  Preserves.  N.  Y.  P. 

Adirondack  Rivers  and  Lumbermen.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  52:464,  June  17, 

1899.) 

Reprinted  from  the  Albany  Journal  of  June  7,  l.SOO.  N.  Y.  P. 

Adirondack   State   Land    Sales.     (Forest   &   Str.,   v.    65:388-89,   Nov.    11, 

1905.)  N.Y.P. 

Adirondack  State  Lands.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  65 :  248,  Sept.  23,  1905.) 

Three  contributions.  X.  Y.  P. 

The  Adirondack  Water  Grab.     (Field  &  Str.,  v.  11:1042,  Mar.,  1907.) 

Editorial.  N.  Y.  P. 

The  Adirondacks.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  60:  [181],  Mar.  7,  1903.) 

Editorial  showing  importance  of  vast  Summer  and  Autumn  Tourist  Business 

of  the  North  Woods.  N.  Y.  P. 

Aesthetic  and  Sanitary  vs.  Commercial  Values.     (Outlook,  v.  83:401,  June 

23,  1906.) 

Editorial  showing  that  Adirondacks  cannot  be  a  storage  reservoir  and  great 

summer  resort  at  the  same  time.  N.  Y.  S. 

Andrews,  Mary  R.  S.     "A  Woman  in  Camp."    Mag.  Art.  No.  13.     (Outing. 

No  date.) 

No  historical  value. 
Another  Adirondack  Tragedy.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  55:  [241],  Sept.  29,  1900.) 

Editorial  commenting  on  the  accidental  shooting  of  Mrs.  Kerr  and  Dr.  Bailey 

on  the  Tahawus  Club  Preserve  in  Essex  Co.  N.  \ .  P. 


350  BIBLIOGEAPHY 

^^rHa^ltti^rt'  ""''"■     '^°'-'  ^  «''■'  -  =«^    !261],  Apr.  5,  1002, 

t/i:::\sis'rr  ''''"""  °'  ^"'* '-  •^-'-  ^-""'  °^  ««'- 

1865\„/     ,      to  Jol>n  Bm,v„'s  grave.     Dated  Saranac  Lake,  July  27 

1»05,  and  addressed  to  Mrs.  H—     (In-  Hoist    TT   ,™    t  i      d 

ed.     tc  1888]  p.  107-203,  pi.,  '         "°'"'  "^^  "'"'■  '"'"'  ^^l""^^^  '^^ 

""Z'tmt     ''    """°'™    ''°°'""'-     '^°"^'   '^    S'-'   V.    83;482-87; 
The  Summit  of  Owl's  Head. 

"^i-t3;':;„!;"2riooi:r""  "■  "^  ^''™'=''^-  '^"-^'  *  «''■-"««'' 

Descriptions  and  Impressions. 

"w::^;.f.t..NXooftrrr' "  '"^  ^^'™-»-  -'=- 

'o*24?i0^8.,^"'-""""""'^  '--'■     <^°-'  *  «'^-  >■•  ^^-^S.  iL! 

'mur:i'*7,*i807';  ^*™°'''^ '™'"'"-  <'"-■  '^-''-".  ^-  2':i83; 

Describes  Adirondack  camp  life. 
't  Moi)     °™^  '°  ""  ^•'■'°"''='^^-     <^"-'  *  S'-.  V.  67:21l!''I„g; 

Account  of  ascent  of  several  of  the  great  peak,  of  the  Adirondack, 
MariOOoT°"'     "'""^  "'  "'  ^*™"'^"'^-     '^"P-  «''•  »'°-'  -  57:  40^7, 

Reprinted  from  "Town  Topics." 
Cheney,  A.  N.     Some  Boyhood  Memories :  YII.     A  First  Visit  to  ih.  ^A^  ^' 
dacks.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  56:  304,  Apr.  20,  1901.)  '  '"  '''  t  rP^ 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  351 

Commercializing  the   Adirondaeks.     (Forest   &   Str     v    74 -618     Anr    ir 
1910.)  >     •        ■       ,   -apr.   J.D, 

Upon  the  storage  project.  v  v  t> 

Covert,  Byron  V.     Three  Weeks  in  the  Adirondaeks.     (Forest  &  Str     v 
56:  487,  June  22,  1901.)  jj  Y  p' 

Cruikshank,   James   A.     Looping  the  Adirondaeks.     (Field  &   Str     v    7- 
[237]-[241],  illus.,  July,  1902.)  ''n.  y.  P. 

Davison,  J.  L.     The  Adirondaeks  of  1858  and  1888.     (Forest  &  Str    v80- 
300-01,  Mar.  8,  1913.)  '^'y,  p. 

Dewey,  Melvil.     The  Tonic  of  the  Winter  Woods.     (Independent,  v    81- 
201-04,  Feb.  8,  1915,  illus.) 
Adirondaeks  in  Winter.  N  Y  S 

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28-30,  illus..  May,  1911.)  N.  Y.  S. 

v.,  F.  P.     Lost  in  the  Woods.     (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  66: 12,  Jan.  6,  1906.) 
Cites    several    instances    of    persons   being    lost    in    the   great   North    Woods. 

N.  Y.  P. 

Van  Vorst,  Marie.  The  Indian  Trail.  (Harper's  Bazar,  v.  42:653-58, 
744-48,  illus.,  July- Aug.,  1908.) 

Trip  along  Indian  Trail  between  Lake  Placid  and  Lake  Henderson  by  a  woman 
reporter  who  was  assigned  to  write  of  the  source  of  the  Hudson  River.     N.  Y.  S. 

A  Visit  to  the  States:  A  reprint  of  letters  from  the  Special  Correspondent 
•of  the  Times.     Series  1-2.     London :  G.  E.  Wright,  1887-88.    2  v.    T. 
Chap.  40.     The  Hudson  River,  v.  2,  p.  83-87.     Treats  of  the  Adirondacks,  the 
source  of  the  River.  N-  Y.  S. 

Wack,  Henry  Wellington.  Kamp  Kill  Kare,  the  Adirondack  Home  of  Hon. 
Timothy  L.  Woodruff.     (Field  &  Str.,  v.  7 :  [651] -61,  illus.,  pi.,  Feb.,  1903.) 

N.  Y.  P. 

Wells,  Lewis  A.  A  January  Ascent  of  Mount  Marcy.  (Appalachia,  v.  11: 
340-43,  June,  1908.)  ^- Y- S- 

Whitaker,  E.  S.  Adirondack  Tours.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  57:452-53,  Dec, 
7,  190L)  N.Y.P. 

Whitaker,  E.  S.  Adirondack  Tours.  Parts  1-3.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v.  69: 
[8] -9,  48-49,  88-89,  July  6,  13,  &  20,  1907.)  N.  Y.  P. 


358  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Wilcox,  James  Foster.     Cranberry  Lake,  New  York  and  the  Western  Adiron- 
dack  Region.     [Cranbeny  Lake,   N.   Y.:]    Cranberry  Lake   Motor   Boat 
Club,  1915.     64  p.,  illus.,  port.     obi.     T. 
A  descriptive  booklet.  N.  Y.  S. 

Williams,  A.  P.  The  Adirondacks  in  Summer :  A  Game  Protector's  Trip 
Through  the  Forests  of  Herkimer  and  St.  Lawrence  Counties.  (Field  & 
Str.,  V.  13 :  [877] -83,  illus.,  Feb.,  1909.)  N.  Y.  P. 

Williams,  Asa  S.  The  Lost  Lake  of  the  Adirondacks.  (Field  &  Str.,  v.  8: 
[190]-91,  illus.,  July,  1903.)  N.  Y.  P. 

Wise,  Daniel,  D.D.  Summer  Daj^s  on  the  Hudson:  The  story  of  a  pleasant 
tour  from  Sandy  Hook  to  the  Saranac  Lakes,  including  incidents  of  travel, 
legends,  historical  anecdotes,  sketches  of  scenery,  etc.  New  York:  Nelson 
&  Phillips,  1876.     288  p.,  illus.     pi.     D. 

Chap.  XV.     From  Lake  George  to  the  Peak  of  Tahawus,  p.  24(>-63. 
Chap.  XVI.     From  Tahawus  to  the  end  of  the  tour,  p.  264-88.  L.  C. 

Woodcliuck,  Pseud.  Conditions  in  the  Adirondacks.  (Forest  &  Str.,  v. 
76 :  658,  677-78,  Apr.  29, 1911. )  N.  Y.  P. 


ASSEMBLY  AND  SENATE  DOCUMENTS 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Standing  Committee  on  Canals 
and  Internal  Improvements  on  the  Memorial  of  the  Counties  of  St.  Law- 
rence, Franklin,  and  Clinton,  praying  for  an  Act,  Authorizing  a  Survey  of 
the  Route  of  a  Canal  to  Connect  Lakes  Ontario  and  Champlain.  (Assem- 
bly Jour.,  1824:804-808.) 

A  favorable  report  upon  the  proposed  canal  from  Plattsburgh  to  Ogdensburgh, 
which  was  to  pass  through  the  North  Woods.  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Select  Committee,  Relative  to  the 
Survey  of  the  Sacondaga,  Schroon,  and  the  middle  branch  of  the  Hudson 
River.     3  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1831,  No.  248.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Committee  on  Railroads  on  the 
petition  of  inhabitants  of  the  counties  of  St.  Lawrence,  Franklin,  Clinton 
and  Essex,  in  relation  to  the  Ogdensburgh  and  Lake  Champlain  Railroad. 
15  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1839,  No.  233.) 

Includes  Statement  of  Messrs.  Hopkins,  Piatt  and  Duane,  which  tells  of  the 
great  natural  resources  of  region  from  which  the  proposed  road  would  draw 
revenue.  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Select  Committee  on  the  Petitions 
of  the  Inhabitants  of  Essex,  Franklin  and  Warren  Counties  [for  an  Appro- 
priation for  the  Improvement  of  the  Saranac  River  and  Lakes].  4  p. 
(Assembly  Doc.  1851,  No.  94.)  N  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.     Report  of  the  Select  Committee  on  the  Improve- 
ment of  the  St.  Regis  River.     2  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1856,  No   112.) 
Committee  concludes  "that  it  would  do  much  towards  developing  tlie  natural 
wealth  of  this  wilderness,  which  is  always  advantageous  to  the  State."     N.  Y.  S. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  359 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  "Report  of  the  Select  Committee  on  Petitions 
for  the  Improvement  of  Raquette  and  Moose  Rivers.  32  p.  (Assembly 
Doc,  1850,  No.  68.) 

The  appendices,  A  to  I,  are  quotations  from  previous  reports  and  surveys  show- 
ing the  immense  natural  wealth  of  this  region.  N.  Y.  B. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Committee  on  Commerce  and 
Navigation,  Relative  to  the  Improvement  of  Beaver  River.  4  p.  (Assem- 
bly Doc,  1860,  No.  91.) 

Enumerates  appropriations  for  other  rivers  of  Northeastern  New   York  from 
18.50  to  1857.  X.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly,  Report  presented  by  Mr.  Rogers,  of  Seneca,  to 
the  Committee  on  Agriculture,  and  adopted  ...  as  a  reply  to  a  resolution 
.  .  .  passed  February  1,  1883,  in  regard  to  the  preservation  of  the  forests 
of  the  State.     7  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1883,  No.  130.) 

Sets  forth  the  great  value  of  the  Adirondack  forests  in  regulating  the  flow  of 
the  Hudson  and  other  streams.  X.  \\  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Special  Committee  to  Investigate 
Matters  Connected  with  the  State  Surveys.  10  p.  (Assembly  Doc.  1885, 
No.  137.) 

Chiefly  concerned  with  the  Adirondack  Survey,  conducted  by  Verplanck  Colvin. 

X.  Y.  S. 

New  York    (St.)    Assembly.     In  the  Matter  of  the  Inquiry  Concerning  the 
Administration  of  the  Laws  in   Relation  to  the  Forest  Preserve  by  the 
Forest   Commission,   etc.;   Report   Adopted  by  the  Assembly,  April  23, 
1891.     Albany,  1891.     7  p.     0. 
Not  published  in  the  collected  documents.  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Reports  of  the  Majority  and  Minority  of  the 
Committee  on  Public  Lands  and  Forestry,  relative  to  the  Administration 
of  the  Laws  in  Relation  to  the  Forest  Preserve  by  the  Forest  Commission. 
12,  615  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1891,  No.  81 )  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Standing  Committee  on  Public 
Lands  and  Forestry  of  the  Assembly  of  1891,  Relative  to  the  Investigation 
of  the  Adirondack' Lands  and  Tax  Sales.  189  p.  (Assembly  Doc,  1895, 
No.  38.)  ^^-Y-S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  and  Testimony  of  the  Special  Committee 
Appointed  to  Investigate  the  Depredations  of  Timber  in  the  Forest  Pre- 
serve, 1895.     922  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1896,  No.  67.) 

Report  of  the  Special  Committee  Appointed  to  Investigate  the  Depre- 
dations of  Timber  in  the  Forest  Preserve,  1895  [without  the  testimony]. 
31  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1896,  No.  60.)  ^'-  Y-  »■ 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Special  Committee  of  the  Assem- 
bly Appointed  to  Continue  the  Investigation  as  to  what  Lands  should  be 
Acquired  within  the  Forest  Preserve  in  Order  to  Protect  the  Watersheds 
therein.     39  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1898,  No.  55.)  N.  Y.  S. 


360  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Special  Committee  Appointed 
to  Investigate  as  to  certain  matters  pertaining  to  the  State  Park  and  Forest 
Preserve.     14  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1900,  No.  C3.) 

Concerns  boundaries  of  the  park  and  the  observance  of  the  Game  and  Forest 
Laws.  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Special  Committee  of  the  Assem- 
bly Appointed  to  Investigate  as  to  certain  matters  pertaining  to  the  State 
Park  and  Forest  Preserve.  14  p.  (Assembly  Doc,  1902,  No.  50.) 
Matters  investigated  were  the  advisability  of  the  Proposed  Amendment  to  the 
Constitution  allowing  cutting  and  sale  of  Timber  in  the  Forest  Preserve,  legis- 
lation for  further  forest  protection  and  the  observance  of  Forest  and  Game 
Laws.  N.Y.S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Adirondack  Committee,  Assembly 
of  1902.     19  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1903,  No.  4G.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  tlie  Special  Committee  of  the  Assem- 
bly on  the  Adirondacks.     11  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1904,  No.  (iO.)        N.  Y  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Adirondack  Committee  of  the 
Assembly  of  1904.     20  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  1905,  No.  31.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Assembly.  Report  of  the  Adirondack  Committee  of  the 
Assembly  of  1905.     13  p.     (Assembly  Doc,  190C,  No.  57.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Canal  Board.  Report  of  the  Canal  Board  relating  to  the 
Continuation  of  the  Survey  of  the  Northern  Branches  of  the  Hudson  River, 
in  obedience  to  a  resolution  of  the  Assembly,  of  March  24th,  1840.  3  p. 
(Assembly  Doc,  1840,  No.  275.)  "  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Canal  Board.  Report  of  the  Canal  Board,  .  .  .  relating  to 
the  Survey  of  the  several  branches  of  the  Hudson  River,  transmitting  the 
report  and  estimates  of  the  engineer,  with  a  communication  .  .  .  from  the 
Surveyor-general.     35  p.     (Sen.  Doc,  1840,  No.  61.) 

Contents:  Report  of  the  Surveyor-general  ...  in  relation  to  the  public  lands, 
etc.  [of  Hi'rkimer,  Hamilton,  Warren,  Essex,  Clinton,  and  Franklin  Counties]  ; 
Report  of  George  E.  Hoffman,  Chief  Engineer,  in  respect  to  the  survey  of  the 
Upper  Hudson. 

The  purpose  of  the  former  report  is  to  "make  the  Legislature,  and  the  public 
generally,  more  adequately  acquainted  with  the  real  extent  and  value  of  the 
large  section  of  the  State  ...  as  little  known  as  the  secluded  valleys  of  the 
Eocky  Mountains,  or  the  burning  plains  of  Central  Africa."  Tlie  latter  is 
chiefly  technical  but  Mr.  Hoffman  gives  his  observations  concerning  the  re- 
sources of  region.     He  says: 

"So  little  is  known  of  that  region,  that  no  estimate  can  be  made  of  its  value 
.  .  .  but  I  have  but  little  doubt  that  correct  information  .  .  would  show  that 
few  routes  are  of  more  importance  than  this,  or  would  be  more  profitable  to  the 
State."  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Canal  Commissioners.  Communication  on  the  Survey  of  a 
Route  for  a  Canal  from  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Lake  Champlain.  36  p. 
(Assembly  Doc,  1825,  No.  183.) 

Title  from  Bibliography  on  N.  Y.  Canals  in  the  Suppl.  to  the  An.  Rept.  of  the 
State  Engr.,  for  1905. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  36i 

New  York    (St.)    Commissioners  on  Proposed  Railroad   from   Ogdensbur-h 
to  Lake  Cliamplain.     Report  of  the  Commissioners  Appointed  to  cause°a 
survey  to  be  made  of  the  several  routes  for  a  railroad  from  Ogdensburgli 
to  Lake  Cbamplain.     115  p.,  fold.  map.     (Assembly  Doc.,  1841,  No.  43.)° 
Contains  the  following  appended  documents: 

A  Report  of  Edward  H.  Broadhead.  Chief  Engineer  for  the  survey  of  a  railroad 
from  Ogdensburgli  to  Lake  Champlain. 

With  this  report  are  submitted  the  reports  of  the  following  division  engineers— 
W.  R.  Casey.  VV.  B.  Gilbert,  John  S.  Stoddard,  and  A.  \V.  Harrison. 
B.  Roberts,  B,  S.     Extracts  from  report  on  the  geology  and  mineralogy  of  parts 
of  Franklin  and  Clinton  Counties,  contiguous  to  the  proposed  railroad.     N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Commissioners  to  Build  Road  from  Cedar  Point,  Essex 
Co.,  Westward  to  Black  River.  Report  of  the  Commissioners  Appointed 
.  .  .  April  21st,  1828,  to  lay  out  and  open  a  road  from  Cedar  Point, 
westward  through  the  towns  of  Moriah  and  Neweomb,  in  the  County  of 
Essex  ...  to  the  Black  River  opposite  the  Village  of  Lowville  in  the 
County  of  Lewis.     (In :  Assembly  Jour.,  1829 :  452-57.) 

"The  commissioners  felicitate  themselves  in  thinking  that  they  have  succeeded 
...  in  finding  a  good  route  for  a  road  across  that  extensive  forest — the  dis- 
tance being  72  miles  ...  on  line  of  the  road." 

Much  of  the  report  is  taken  up  by:  "Remarks  on  the  character  of  the  adjacent 
lands."  N.  Y.  S 

New  York  (St.)  State  Engineer  and  Surveyor.  Reply  of  State  Engineer 
and  Surveyor  to  Resolutions  filed  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  Adiron- 
dack Survey.    2,  Ip.     (Assembly  Docs.,  1885,  Nos.  73  &  74.)  N.Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Senate.  Report  of  the  Committee  on  Rail-roads  on  the 
Petitions  for  the  Construction  of  the  Ogdensburgh  and  Champlain  Rail- 
road by  the  State.     12  p.     (Sen.  Doc,  1840,  No.  44.) 

The  committee  expresses  belief  that  the  road  should  be  built,  "because  it  will 
open  up  to  our  capitalists  the  richest  and  most  extensive  mineral  region  prob- 
ably on  this  continent."  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Senate.  Report  of  the  Select  Committee  on  the  Improve- 
ment of  the  Navigation  of  Raquette  River.  4  p.  (Sen.  Doc,  1854,  No. 
24.)  N.Y.S. 

New  York  (St.)  Senate.     Report  of  the  Special  Committee  on  State  Lands, 
in  the  Adirondack  Region.     35  p.     (Sen.  Doc,  1884,  No.  23.) 
The  appendix  to  this  report  is:    Report  of  the  Superintendent  of  the  Adirondack 
Survey  on  the  Public  Lands  in  the  Adirondacks.  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Senate  Report  of  the  Finance  Committee  on  the  Alleged 
Misconduct  of  the  Forest  Commission.  48  p.  (Sen.  Doc,  1887,  No.  73.) 
Investigation  resulting  from  alleged  mismanagement  of  Adirondack  State  forest 
lands.  Chief  question  seemed  to  be  the  commission's  conduct  of  the  suit  against 
Hurd  &  Hotchkiss  for  cutting  timber  off  Forest  Preserve  in  Macomb's  Pur- 
chase, Franklin  Co. 

New  York  (St.)  Senate.  Report  of  the  Special  Committee  of  the  Senate 
on  the  Future  Policy  of  the  State  in  Relation  to  the  Adirondacks  and 
Forest  Preservation.     14  p.,  fold.  map.     (Sen.  Doc,  1904,  No.  28.) 

N.  Y.  o. 


i 


362  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Now  York  (St.)  Senate.  Report  of  the  Special  Conunittce  of  the  Senate 
on  (lie  Poliey  of  the  State  in  Kehition  to  the  Adirondaeks  for  Forest  Preser- 
vation, and  the  Shellfish  Industry.     9  p.     (Sen.  Doc.,  1909,  No.  37.) 

N.  Y.  S. 

PUBLIC  TAPERS  OF  VARIOUS  GOVERNORS 

New    York    (St.).     Governor    (Black).     Forests.     (In    his   Public    Papers, 
1897-98:19-21.  227-32.) 
Chiefly  concerning  the  Adirondaeks.  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.)  Governor  (Cleveland).  The  Adirondack  Wilderness;  The 
Adirondack  Survey.     (In  his  Public  Papers,  1884  :  48-52.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  (Cornell).  The  Adirondack  Survey;  The  Nortli- 
em  Wilderness.     (In  his  Public  Papers,  1882:42-44.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  (Flower).  The  Adirondack  Park.  (In  his 
Piiblic  Papers,  1894  :  35-39.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  (Flower).  Communication  from  the  Governor 
calling  the  attention  of  the  Legislature  to  Senate  Bill  No.  846,  relating 
to  the  maintenance  of  the  Adirondack  Park,  April  11, 1894.  3  p.  (Assem- 
bly Doc,  1894,  No.  ()2.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  ( Flower).  Communication  from  the  Governor 
relative  to  the  Preservation  of  the  State's  Forest  Preserve.  3  p.  (Assem- 
bly Doc.  1893,  No.  79.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  (Flower).  Memorandum  tiled  with  Assembly 
Hill  No.  1422.  to  Estiiblisii  the  Adirondack  Park.  Approved.  (In  his 
Public  Papers,  1892 :  189-91. )  N.  Y.  S. 

New    York    (St.).     Governor    (Flower).     Veto.    Assembly    Bill    No.    1001, 
Making  Appropriation  for  the  State  Land  Survey.     (In  his  Public  Papers, 
1894:  188-9L) 
Gives  a  brief  history  of  the  Adirondack  Survey.  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (State).  Governor  (Flower).  Veto.  Senate  Bill  No.  8(51,  To 
Amend  the  Penal  Code,  relating  to  Tax  Sales  of  Ailirondack  Lands.  (In 
his  Public  Papers,  1894 :  369-71. )  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  (Fliggins).  Message  to  the  Legislature  concern- 
ing the  State's  Forest  Preserve.     (In  his  Public  Papers,  1905:47-52.) 

N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  (Hill).  Communication  from  the  Governor 
relative  to  the  Use  of  State  Lands  in  the  "Adirondaeks"  for  Park  Purposes. 
2  p.     (Sen.  Doc,  1890,  No.  29;  Assemldy  Doc,  1890.  No.  85.)  N.  Y.  S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  (TIill).  Message  Kecommending  the  Creation 
of  a  State  Park  in  the  Adirondack  Region.  (In  his  Public  Papers.  1890: 
50-52.)  N  Y.S. 

New  York  (St.).  Governor  (Iloflman).  Veto  of  the  Governor  on  the  Bill 
entitled  "An  Act  to  Facilitate  the  Construction  of  the   Railroad  of  the 


l5IP>hI()GRAiMIY 


"v'.o; 


Adin.n.liick    ( '(.tnpariy,   .-iiid    ils    Kxicrision   to   I  lie   walcrH  ol'  Mm;   St.    I.iiw 

rcticc   K'lvci."     (i  p.      (y\ssciril)ly  Doc,   1K70,  Ni>.  1207.)  N.Y.  M. 

New     Vntk     (SI.).     (iov.riHM-     ( I  Iiij^'Iich).     TIic     K„rcsl,    I'lc.scrvf.      (In     IiIh 

I'uhlic  r;ip.i-s,   I!)|();  l!l  22.)  N,  y.  s. 

New    York    (SI.),     (iovcriior   (llu^^luw).     Forest   iVcscrvcH  :iri(l  (limw   I.hwh. 

(In  Ins  I'lil.lic  I'lipcns,  190H :  3.1-3:3.)  N.Y.M, 

New   Voik    (SI),     (iovcrtior   (Morion).     Stnlo  ForcHt  and  (liinic   IVuHcrvcH; 

SI  Ml.'  I;;irid  Survey.      (In  Ins  I'lildic,  Papers,  lH!)(i:31   3(i.)  N.  Y.  K. 

New    York    (SI.),     ({overnor    (O.leji).     Cornell    S<-liool    of    l''oreslry;    KorcHt 

I'nwrve.      (  In  Ins  I'nl.iie  l';ipern,  1904  :  35-  IH. )  N   Y.  S. 

New  York   (St.).     (iovernor   (Odell).     The   Forest  PrcHerve.      (In  Inn  I'uMio. 

I 'a pcrH,  1002:14-10.)  N.  Y.S. 


INDEX 


Note:  The  author  wishes  to  make  special  acknowledgment  here  to  Mr.  F.  W.  O.  Werry 
of  Saranac  Lake,  for  his  valuable  coUaboration  in  compiling  this  index.  " 


Abel,  Oliver,  I,  379 

Abel,  WilUam  J.,  I,  379 

"Aboriginal  Occupation  of  New  York."  quoted, 
I,  28 

"Aboriginal  Place  Names,"  quoted,  I,  11;  II, 
161 

Act,  creating  Park,  1 ,  4 ;  amendatory,  4 ;  concern- 
ing Old  Military  Roads,  II,  123,  127, 129;  con- 
cerning Adirondack  Railroads,  131,  132,  133, 
134,  135;  concerning  action  for  State  Park, 
169;  prohibiting  sale  of  State  lands,  172; 
concerning  fire  prevention,  178;  permitting 
sale  of  lands,  180;  authorizing  purchase  of 
lands,  182;  establishing  the  Adirondack  Park, 
183;  Section  1  quoted,  183;  giving  power  to 
sell  timber,  184;  defining  Forest  Preserve, 
185;  defining  Adirondack  Park,  185;  permit- 
ting timber  operations,  186;  appointing  com- 
mittee of  Nine,  200;  creating  College  of 
Forestry,  202;  defining  "blue  line,"  216;  for 
better  fire  protection,  216;  to  destroy  build- 
ings on  State  lands,  217;  the  Fuller  Law,  223; 
for  new  fire  control  system,  225;  Conservation 
Law,  234;  Conservation  Law  revised,  235; 
Top-lopping  law,  226,  236.  240;  defining  Park, 
236;  placing  Saratoga  Springs  under  Con- 
servation Commission,  245;  Machold  Law, 
245;  allowing  does  to  be  killed,  253;  "  Buck 
Law,"  253,254 

Addison  Junction,  I,  149 

Adgate's  Tract,  I,  81 

Adirondac  ("deserted  village"),  I,  140 

Adirondack, 

Park  defined  and  described,  I,  4;  Park  and 
Preserve  differentiated,  5;  Preserve  acreage, 
4 

Adirondack  Camp  and  Trail  Club,  II,  24 

Adirondack  Club, 

forerunner  of  Tahawus  Club,  I,  148;  list  of 
incorporators  and  original  members,  148;  see 
Philosophers'  Camp 

Adirondack  Co.,  The  (R.  R.),  buys  Adirondack 
Iron  Works,  I,  147 

Adirondack  Cottage  Sanitarium, 

founding  and  development  of,  I,  256;  list  of 
Superintendents  and  Resident  Physicians, 
footnote,  257;  Training  School  for  Nurses, 
footnote,  257;  Twenty-Fifth  Anniversary  of, 
258;  change  of  name,  footnote,  258;Trudeau 
School  of  Tuberculosis,  footnote,  258;  me- 
morial statue  of  Dr.  Trudeau  unveiled,  foot- 
note, 258;  letter  of  Mrs.  Goss  describing  site 
of,  in  pre-Trudeau  days,  271-272 

"Adirondack  Days,"  II.  84 

Adirondack  guide-boat,  the,  II.  79 

Adirondack  Guides,  The  Last  of  the  Great,  II, 
116 

"  Adirondack"  Harry,  see  Radford 

Adirondack  Iron  Works,  The, 
location  of,  I,  136;  Watson's  History  of  Essex 
Count V  quoted,  136-137;  starting  and  aban- 
donment of  Elba  Iron  Works,  137 ;  story  of 
Indian  and  iron  dam,  137-138;  lands  pur- 
chased for,  138,  Mr.  Henderson's  lost  Journal, 
139;  the  Dornburgh  pamphlet  concerning, 
139;  founders  of,  141;  Mr.  Henderson  made 
manager  of,  141;  preparations  to  make  steel, 
141-142;  Lower  Works  built  and  abandoned, 


,141-142;  growth  of  Upper  Works,  142;  the 
Mclntyre  Bank,"  143;  Mr.  Henderson's 
death,  144;  its  effect  on,  146-147;  hopes  of 
railroad  connections  with,  1 47 ;  abandonment 
?V^  >  '  acquired  by  the  Adirondack  Co., 
147;  leased  to  the  Adirondack  Club  (now  the 
Tahawus  Club),  148;  possible  revival  of  iron 
mdustry,  149 

Adirondack  League  Club,  The, 

location,  II,  159;  objects,  159;  charter  mem- 
bers, 159;buysland,  160;dues,  161;givesaid 
to  Forest  Protection,  210 

Adirondack  Library,  I,  239 

Adirondack  Lodge,  I,  165; 

location  of,  II,  23;  built  by  van  Hoevenberg, 
23;  IS  bought  by  Lake  Placid  Club,  24;  Mr. 
van  Hoevenberg  becomes  superintendent, 24; 
destroyed  by  fire,  24,  214 

Adirondack  Mountain  Reserve  Club,  II.  49 

"Adirondack"  Murray,  see    Murray,  William 

Adirondack  National  Bank,  I,  236 

Adirondack  Park, 

sentiment  in  favor  of,  II,  182;  Association 
created,  182;  description  of  in  State  Report 
for  i8qi  ,  183 ;  created,  act  quoted,  183  ;defini- 
tion  altered,  185.  236 

Adirondack  Pass  (Indian  Pass),  II.  164 

Adirondack  Railroad  from  Saratoga  to  North 
Creek,  II.  90 

Adirondack  Railway  Company,  seeks  grant  over 
State  lands,  II,  196 

Adirondack  Survey,  II,  164-167 

Adirondacks, 

geographical  description  of,  1,3;  early  names 
of,  3;  accepted  boundaries  of.  3;  definite 
boundaries  set  by  State.  3 ;  synonymous  with 
Adirondack  Park,  5;  discovered  by  Cham- 
plain,  8;  meaning  of,  34;  Sylvester  quoted, 
34;  Jesuit  Relations  quoted,  35;  Prince 
quoted,  35;  first  application  of.  36;  first  and 
second  gubernatorial  mention.  II.  171 

"Adirondacks  as  a  Health  Resort,  The,"  by 
Dr.  Stickler,  referred  to,  I,  266 

"Adirondacs,  The,"    Ralph  Waldo  Emerson, 
II,  271-280 

Adler,  Dr.  Felix,  II,  45 

Adler,  Isaac,  II.  45 

"Adventures  in  the  Wilderness," 

"Adirondack"  Murray's  book.  I,  193;  dis- 
cussed. 192.  196;  quoted,  193,  196 

Aeroplane,  first  in  woods.  II,  296 

Agassiz,  Louis,  at  the  "Philosophers'  Camp," 
I,  179 

Agricultural  Experimental  Station,  II.  200 

Agricultural  Society,  Annual  Report  of,  quoted 
as  to  Brown's  cattle.  II.  5 

Albany  Lake  (Nehasane  Lake),  I,  135 

Aldrich,  Charles,  I,  289 

Aldrich,  Thomas  Bailey, 

taken  to  Saranac  Lake  by  son'sillness,  1.289; 
a  letter  quoted ,  289 ;  builds  in  Highland  Park. 
290;  his  literary  doings,  290;  leaves  Saranac 
Lake,  291  ,  ,      .      • 

Aleck  (Old),  old  Indian  who  knew  of  lead  mme, 

Alexander,  Jabez  D.,  built  Algonquin  Hotel,  I, 


366 


INDEX 


Alexander,  Robert  C,  II.  159 

Algonquin, 

Indians  guided  Champlain.  I,  9;  tribe.  37; 
mountain,  37;  Hotel,  location  and  history, 
37-38 

Allen,  Anson,  his  bear  story,  II,  36 

Allen,  Frederick  P.,  II,  36 

Allen,  Henry,  1,353.357 

Allen  House,  the,  1,357 

"  Allen's  Bear  Fight  up  in  Keene,"  II,  36.  37 

Alstead  Hill,  II,  30 

Alton,  Dr.,  I,  378  _     _ 

Alvord,  Thomas  G.,  introduces  act,  II,  169 

Amendment,  Constitutional,  see  Section  7, 
Article  VII 

"American  Scenic  and  Historical  Preservation 
Society  Report,  ipiS,"  quoted  as  to  Alex. 
Macomb,  I,  64 

Ames,  Moses  S.,  I,  348 

Ames,  Moses  (Mrs.),  I,  348 

Ampersand  (Lake,  Mountain, Brook,  Hotel), 
derivations  discussed,   I,  38-39;  Van   Dyke 
quoted,  39;  Hotel  burned,40;  property  sold, 40 

Ampersand  Pond,  bought  for  "Philosophers' 
Camp,"  I,  187 

Anderson,  A.  A.  (Mrs.),  I,  254 

Anderson,  Jeremiah  G.,II,  20 

Angerstein,  John  Julius, 

once  controlled  John  Brown's  Tract,  I,  94; 
his  paintings  made  nucleus  of  National 
Gallery,  London,  94 

"AnnalsofTryonCounty"(Campbell's), referred 
to,  I,  16 

Anson  Blake  Tract,  II,  159 

Anthony,  Captain  Nicholas  N.,  II,  64 

Anthony,  Theophilus,  II,  63 

Anthony  Ponds,  II,  63 

"  Antlers,"  The,  II,  95,  96 

Apgar  camp,  II,  94 

Appropriation, 

first,  for  purchase  of  State  lands,  II.  172;  for 
expenses  of  Forest  Commission,  178;  first 
direct,  182;  for  land  purchases  vetoed  by  Gov. 
Odell,  209;  for  Forest  Nursery,  209;  for  land 
purchases.  221;  list  of,  255 

Arbutus  Lake,  II.  93 

Armstrong,  Mr.  C.  R.,  I,  257 

Armstrong,  C.  R.  (Mrs.),  I,  257 

Arnold,  Edwin,  I,  127 

Arnold,  Otis, 

moves  into  HerreshofT  Manor,  I,  123;  Lady 
Amelia  Murray  quoted  as  to  "Arnold's," 
124-125;  Headley  quoted.  126;  remarkable 
horsemanship  of  daughters,  126;  shooting 
of  James  Short,  127;  the  suicide  of.  127; 
house  reopened  by  son,  Edwin,  127;  house 
finally  burns.  127;  description  of  "Arnold's" 
by  Thorpe.  131-132 

Arthurborough  Tract,  I.  81 

Association  for  the  Protection  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks.  The, 
organization  of,  II,  210;  purposes,  210; 
incorporation,  212;  trustees  elected,  211; 
Committee  on  legislation  appointed,  211; 
permanent  watcher  sent  to  Albany.  211;  up- 
holds Constitutional  Amendment,  212; 
encourages  more  land  purchases,  212;  First 
Annual  Meeting  of,  212;  Harry  Radford's 
suggestion.  212;  trees  and  newspapers.  212; 
helps  to  defeat  Lewis  Grab  Bill,  213;  investi- 
gates surrender  of  State's  titles,  214;  works 
for  better  fire  protection,  216;  investigates 
lumber  thefts,  217;  results  of  investigation, 
218;  forces  resignation  of  Middleton  and 
Pond.  218;  investigates  flooding  by  Paul 
Smith's  Co..  220;  restores  penalty  for  top- 
lopping,  240;  president  Howland  dies,  240; 
fights  Merritt-Q'Neil  resolution,  222;  John 
G.  Agar  elected  president.  240 

Association  for  Restoring  Moose  to  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  I,  205 

Association  of  Residents  on  Upper  Saranac 
Lake,  II.  206 

Atkinson,  Edwin  C,  I.  380 


Atkinson,  H.  C,  I.,  380 

Ausable,  derivation  of.  I,  40 

Ausable  Chasm,  discovered  by  Gilliland,  I,  18, 
20;  167 

Ausable  Club,  II,  48 

Ausable  Forks,  I,  335,  338,  340,  341,  342 

Ausable  Lake  and  Mountain  Club,  II,  49 

Ausable  Lakes,  I,  167 

Ausable  River,  I,  167 

Austin,  H.  LeRoy,  succeeds  Whipple,  II,  232 

"Autobiography,  An,"  by  E.  L.  Trudeau,  re- 
ferred to,  I.  243 

"Autobiographyof  a  Journalist,"  quoted,  I,  174, 
176 

Automobile,  first  in  woods,  II,  296 

Avacal,  early  name  for  Northern  New  York, 
I,  11 

Avalanche  Lake,  I,  162,  163 

Avery,  S.,  I.  347 

Avery,  Willis,  I,  118 

Averyville,  I.  347 

Alton,  II,  203 

Babcock,  Francis  G.,  II,  185,  195,  196 

Baker,  Andrew  J., 

son  of  Col.  Milote,  I,  223;  his  birth  and  career 
as  guide,  226;  built  house  that  Stevenson 
occupied.  226;  his  wife  and  children,  226;  278 

Baker,  Andrew  J.  (Mrs.),  I,  348 

Baker,  Bertha  (Mrs.  J.  H.  Vincent),  I.  226 

Baker,  Blanche,  I,  226 

Baker,  Clara,  I.  226 

Baker,  Col.  Milote, 

builds  famous  hotel  in  Saranac  Lake,  I,  223; 
notable  guests  at  hotel,  223;  his  birth  and 
early  career,  223;  his  two  wives  and  children, 
223;  his  characteristics,  224;  establishes  first 
store  and  post-oflBce  in  Saranac  Lake,  224; 
his  brother  Hillel,  the  cobbler,  225;  his  death, 
225;  his  hotel  closed  forever,  225;  his  son 
Andrew  J.,  225 

Baker,  Emma,  I,  223 

Baker,  Grace,  I,  226 

Baker,  Hillel,  brother  of  Col.  Milote,  I,  225 

Baker,  Julia,  I,  218,  223 

Baker,  Narcissa,  I,  217.  223 

Baker,  Raymond,  T.  (Mrs.),  II,  93 

Baker  Bridge,  1,217.  218,  223 

Baker's  Hotel,  I.  223 

Bakewell,  Professor  C.  M.,  II,  52 

Baldwin,  Dr.  E.  R.,  I.  238.  254 

Baldwin,  Ernest  H.,  I,  238 

Baldwin,  George  W.,  I,  353 

Baldwin  School,  I,  238 

Balfour,  quoted  as  to  R.  L.  S.  and  Italy.  I,  284 

Balfour's  Life  of  Stevenson,  referred  to  and 
quoted,  I.  273 

"Balsams,The,"I,379 

Bandmann  (the  actor),  I.  287 

Bank  of  Lake  Placid,  the,  I,  375 

BarnumPond,  II.  127.  249 

"Barque  of  Camp  Pine  Knot,"  the,  II,  93 

Barret,  Walter,  his  Old  Merchants  of  New  York 
City  referred  to.  I,  66 

Barse,  Mills  W.,  II.  159 

Bartlett.E.B.,!.  379 

Bartlett,  O.  J.,  1,347 

Bartlett,  Virgil  C, 

buys  land  and  builds  hotel,  I,  311 ;  his  birth 
and  death,  312;  his  appearance  and  charac- 
teristics, 312;  story  of  the  new  cutter,  313; 
his  treatment  of  hired  help.  313;  fond  of 
animals  and  children,  314;  adopts  children, 
314 

BarUett,  Virgil  C.  (Mrs.), 

her  good  table.  I.  314;  fine  qualities,  315 

"Bartlett's,"  I.  292,  307;  location,  311;  de- 
stroyed by  fire,  317 

Bartlett's  Carry,  I,  311 

Barton,  Thomas  M.,  II.  89 

Basedow,  Johann  Bernhard,  I,  104 

Basselin,  Theodore  B.,  II.  178 

Baxter  Farm,  the,  II,  45 

Bay  Pond,  see  Rockefeller,  William 


INDEX 


367 


Ifat'  KK&^'e.  L.  Trudeau).  I.  246. 

249,259 
®"nuoteTek^y"names  for  Lake  Champlain.  I, 

??    auited  21;  his  Aboriginal  OccupaUon  of 

Nam«    0/  N«^    I'or/^,  34;  quoted.  46.  50; 
Beauregard,  General,  II.  39 

tion  reviewed  247 
Beaver  Lake,  I.  99.  132 
Beaver  River  Club,  1. 135 

Beede,  Allen,  II.  32 
Beede,Ama,II.32.48 
Beede,Almon,II  32 
Beede,  David,  II.  32 
Beede,  Edward,  II,  Sj^ 
Beede,  Orlando   11.49 
Beede,  Orrin,  11,32 


Beede,  urriu,  XX,  ^- 
Beede,  P^'P^*  t't^i'o^V 

mentof  Mt.  Marqy,  154 
Benedict,  Professor  G.  W.,  II.  75 
Benham,John,.II.  126 

100-  had  many  friends,  lOU 
Bennett,  Ed.,  II,  95 
Bennett,  Margaret.il.  yo 
Bennett's  Pond  (Mirror  Lake),  1,  ^«> 
llS?on,Na%'hanie'lS.,hisfl«*o.y  o/  Herkimer 

Cowniy  quoted.  I.  9^ 

Berry,  CarroU,  L  380.  381 
Bettner,  James,  I.  ^bi 
«^SsTA«j|ar.;iTl79,reprinted.l80 
Biddlecome,  Mr.,  II,  31-  -i^ 

«|thdrawin.SUte  lands  from  sale.  I^^^^^^^ 
s^d7trrciU^^lf6;^iea^ing  a^mendment  fa^^^^ 

ST,'  ^r!-'Amos?^aJ'  t'he    ' -Philosophers' 
Bir?s?^ai'ro#ck  11.291-296 
Bisby  Club,  II.  159 
liSl'^u^ci^da^r-ied  John  Cheney.  I.  170 

Birck&\!r3i4"33r338.340.344 

Black  River,  II,  loS 
Blagden,  Thomas.  !■  -^^9 
Blanchard,  Charhe,  II.  95 
Blood,  Arvilla  E.,  I.^-i-i.  ^  • 
Blood,  George,  1.^^^        225;  buys   land  and 
Blood.  Orlando,  Jv^tg"  233;  sells  lot  to  Lucius 
^;l^ns%'33ropens  hofefWith  famous  ball. 

Blood,  Pascal,  1.233 
Blood,Ryland,I.23.J 


Blood's  Hotel  (Saranac  Lake), 

now  Riverside  Inn,  I.  233;  built  by  John  J. 
Miller.  233;  sold  to  Orlando  Blood.  2d.J. 
leased  to  Charles  H.  Kendall.  234 ;  subleased 
to  George  A.  Berkeley.  234;  shooUnR  of 
George  A.  Berkeley.  234;  willed  to  Wal  ace 
Murray,  235;  sold  to  Pine  &  Corbett,  23o 

Bloodville,  I.  232 

Bloomingdale,  I,  269.  270 

"  Trboundkry  of  Park,  1.3;  counties  within.  4; 
relation  to  Forest  Preserve  of  ,5;  why  moun- 
tains iut  beyond.  5;  338;  341.  343.  35.5;  !!...<!», 
132.  133.  143,  152;  origin  of.  181 ;  act  defining. 

Blue  Mountain  House,  the,  II.  102 

Blue  Mountain  Lake,  II.  100 

BiSe  Mountain  Lake  Hotel  the  II,  101 

loard  of  Health  (Saranac  Lake)   I,  240 

Board  of  Trade  (Saranac  Lake),  I,  240 

^"first  steamboat,  I,  306;  first  light  guide-boats 

called     "Willie     Allen's     egg-shells,       306, 

-Captain  Clough's  Shell." 308 

^°^u'^flaVd?in'^Northern  New  York.  I,  86; 

builds  hunting  lodge  on  Lake  Bonaparte.  86 
Bonaparte  Lake,  I,  86 
^TuggS  by  Gov.Hughes.  II   233;carried  at 

referendum..  244;   first   bonds  issued.   244. 

Bo^n^y.^Sli^Lo^ufs^e-fo^otn^ 

r^rii^GutS  footnote,  I,  258;  288 
Boston,  Joseph,  a.  41 


Boyer,Henry  W..I1,  19* 


of  the  mountains,  3o0 
l-re:  ?mr  Srs^  K^'  H:^naia3on), 

footnote,  I,  350 
Bradford,  Gamaliel,  I,  378 

i;'.:',;SS.'wi4f «/  "■"■  """•"■  '■ " 
i;L°i';ffi?4"A  if  ^""•"'"-'•"■"* 

Brewster,  Byron  T-,  1^  i»  „ 
Brewster.  Harriett  C.,  I.  34y 
Brewster,  Martin  W.' I  |53 
Brewster  Thomas,  I.  348^^^^^^.^ 
Brewster's  Hotel  ^J'^lg^^^  ,„cation  of,  351;  it^ 
^p"r^speX   3^2;  chanl^s  hands,  3.53;  burned 

Bridle;  Llion-dollar,  II,  138 

Irinlhurst.  Rev.  Dr    11.18 

Broadwel  .  J.  A.j^I.  219  ^^jerred  to.  I.  12 

Brodhead's  History,  e^    . 

dence,  I.  93 
Brown.  Chad.  1.  »» 


368 


INDEX 


Brown,  Charles,  I,  234 
Brown,  Dr.  Lawrason,  I,  257 
Brown,  Frederick,  II  7  s 

^'de7ce,^r9l''9r  °'  ^^^^  ^^^^  °^  ^-vi- 
°'t^.'  l"*"*  (of  Osawatomie),  compared  with 

r/^r?  7  th^'  „  -^^l,^'  «turns  to  North  Elba, 
f  giel'  to' V/nTa^r"^  IXtf  fn'tTe""^]^' 
slavery  struggle,  7:'0s;4tomieLht  7^-°rp' 
turns  to  North  Elba.  1S57    7    the  7^,0  in 

North  Elba  11;  execution  of  ?f"''  ^'""^ 
remains  northward  7  2  ,"<:  h  ^2:  JO"rney  of 
Elba,  I2;funerrrday  12  Rev  t""1^*^°'"*^ 
officiates,  12-  service  16  'r?^^'  J°^^"a  y°ung 

Brown,  John  fMrs.)  Tl  9  '12   n  If  ?i'°"'  ^^ 

Brown.  John  (of  Providence)' 

lT8^4?4,"'b\U°'^2^°-"  °f  Osawatomie, 

Ir^wi^frf^Jt  '^^  '^-tif  93?-'5-|/^rn* 
^'r^ce-^^rsl''  '^°''^"  °^  J°^"  Brown  of  Provi- 
^"rn^ce'Tll-ri"'''^^  °' J^*^"  S--  °^  P^vi- 
^'p^vidS^'f  •89'^°*''^^  °^  J°^"  Brown  of 
^'de^ce^l'l^'  ""'^'^  °^  J°^"  Brown  of  Pro vi- 
Brown,  Oliver,  II,  .3,  8  ''I 
Brown,  Oliver  (Mrs.),  l!,  10,  16 
iro^'  ^sln;"  H^'^^v,  "'^"^>'  Thompson 

P^vide^nc^I   ql"^'^*"    °^   J-'h"    B^°-n    of 
Brown,  Tom,  I,  3.34 

Brown  University,  I,  90 
Bruce,  G.  T..II,  .35 
Bruce,  Joseph,  II.  .33,  44 
S''""^'' Marc  Isambard,  I,  84 
Buck  Island.  I,  376,  .380 
Buck  Law, 

RnTvlir^'''^'."'  253;  re-enacted,  264 
Buck  Mountain  Point.  II   7fi 
Buffalo  Bill  (William  C.  Cody),  II   120 
Bnlf  T°^M°°  State  lands  destroyed.  11.  217 

Lak^e  f  237^fn7rn^H"'   ^'J'^''^^^  '"    Saranac 
Bunceroelney  n   43"'''     "'  telephones,  237 

^ Ti"m 'im '*iff*^''"f  •?  ^"°t  Carroll  Judson), 
ti'J'  }  •  ^■^■^''  ^^*s  '°'^o  the  lime-light  US- 
begins  to  write.  118;  enters  the  Ad ir^ndacks 
119;  enlists  in  Civil  War.  119-  works  fo; 
Temperance.    120;  goes   to    CatsMIs    120- 


Bushnell,  Rev.  Horace  II  34  4.:  ko 
Bushnell  Falls,  II  45   '      '    *'  ^^'  ^^ 
2""^^^"k  Falls  ("Phantom")   I   iqq 
Byron-Curtiss.  A.  L.,  his  N^^t  /oL^'dlcussed. 

Calamity  Pond,  I,  146 

^1n^?he'?oSLT.r  H^lVr^^^  ^^^'-^  °^  P°-^^V 

&p%^^l7kiT,T,t8g^°^'^-«-^ 
Camp  Beautiful,  the,  II,  92 
Ca'i^Wetn'ot  "^  "PWlosophers'  Camp  " 

^  do'Jra'n^'re';L"cl^d,%t  ro?'°^'-  "'  ^^i  torn 
Camp  sites,  leasing  of,  II'.  183 
C«^"\^  .T'i'*  ^"'"  footnote   I.  321 
Campbell,  Archibald,  surveyor   I    W   7fi 
Camps,  the  first  artistic   iTgl'    '       '  ^ 

••r»„'"S^  's  Camps^,,  II.  92 

w's^de^t°h"rol?°"*--  — t  of  Rad- 

CaSnon!'^^"'  ^"'^'*"  '*'''^'  ^''°^^'^'  ^^  ^2 

at  Witaington,  I,  344;  old  English  ruins.  II. 

Canton,  II,  135 

Cart-wheel,  John  Brown's,  II  5 

^Yf,'2^0  ^^^^°'  ^"'"'''  ^'^'^ce^ds  Colonel  Fox, 
''  Castle  Rustico,"  I  377 
Castorland,  I.  82.  84.  85 
Catherine,  Lake,  II   loi 
Catskill,  Preserve.  I.  4- II    177 

'"dS'l.*?5°4"^''  *°  '"^^  ''^■-^-  tl^-  Adiron- 

rhL'/j^'-^°''oB™«''»'s  prize,  II.  5.  6 

Chalmers    Stephen,  sketch  of  ckreer  and  Arii 
rondack  writings,  I,  291  ^'^'' 

Chamber   of    Commerce    (New    Yarb)     toi 
.nteres.tinPorest.il,  172  ^°'^''    ^^^'"^ 

cnamplam.  Lake.  I,  8  9  11 

Champlain,  Samuel  de,  ' 

discoverer  of  Adirondacks,  I.  8;  third  visit  to 
Anienca.  8;  hears  of  inland  sea.  8;  the  voya^^e 
resu'lf  g'^h'"'''  ^-  ^^^'  ^''^  Iroquiis   8-9f?he 

cpi^fn>'"ISrR!l:.^!74%°-"-- ^-^0 

lT?7.5  "'^^  G..appoints'Forest  Committee. 

Ch^iVf^^^n  S*"*^y'  A."  n.  54 
Charlotte  County, 


on  Sauthier's  map.  x,  14;  named  after  daugh- 
li.   14;  what  it  included.  15- 


ning.  121 ;  poetry,  122 
Burd  Amendment, 

23q"ifr^f;K  V^^^=  '^^Pgpf-  238;  vote  at  polls 

Bu.?/^^gi°m^^t.\^T2°73'^^'"  "'  '^ 
Bn"''rro^;?:'9^4"'=^^^'^  ^"^°'-  P""'^'  "•  218 

®T'^  f '  ^u^^  ^i  ^^^  ^°'^   State,"  earliest 
mapto  show  Mt.  Marcy,  I,  I55  '^^'^'lest 

Burt,  William  G.,  I.  332 
Bushnell,  Alric  Mann.  I,  216 
Bushnell,  Lois  E.,  I,  217 


ter  of  George  III' 

11!%*'^*''  ''""^"  guide-boats  at  Long  Lake. 
Chase,  David,  I   119 
ChtL'an^s^-pTe^r^"-  ^"'^''^^"'^  ^-^  ''  ^'^ 

dfath  S&s""'''*^"'*  '^^  ^^"^  '^°^^-  ^-  82.  83; 
Chassanis  'Tract,  The 

te^r°"    °/-  I'  82;    Hough's  History    of 
l^eu'ts    County  referred   to,   82;   Sylvester^ 

ge^%dt!,.i^L^^-^^i^fS 

|tYorl^-82-C^-:io^,lW%?v-a?tl£S 
^^=;ha?^iol!S^?^i-^e/^'g 
Hough  quoted,  84;  Desjarfinsand  Pha'roux 
fc°?L^^l"*!i  ^x?  *°  America.  84;  joined  by 
85  tro„h?'^^"^^BruneI.  84;  first  settlers  on^ 
85,  troubles  and  wrangles,  85;  Gouverneur 
Morns  takes  control  of,  85;  developments  on 
lar'crJ^te"'^  ^'^^'  ^^'  '^^^rter  expires.  85 
teay^1<^S=.*8°5  ''"^'^  ^°-^-"- 


INDEX 


369 


Cheney,  Hon.  Albert  E..  AdirondackRailroads. 

II.  135 
Cheney,  Jot^'.  .    x,  ,.     Bumppo,  I,  123,  143, 
TirtltlAll^l  168. 169. 170;  his  early 
;=    ifi7    Chas    F.  HoSman  quoted  as  to, 
Til     T    T    Head  ey  quoted  as  to,  168;  two 
'■°  '  -^i    i^wntures   of     168-169;   compared 
;^?hNafFostl"    169    employed  by  Adiror. 
dack  Iron  Works,  170;  marriage  and  death 
of  170    letter  about  his  pistol  quoted,    170 
Laiiian  quoted  as  to,  171;  game  record  of , 
171;  II.  54,87,  112 
Cheney  Pond,  I,  169 

illlWr',  jusdcl  quoted  as  to  Cornell  College 
..  ^ift""  Pe7k  Hous°'(Saranac  Lake),  I,  308 
'''f^^lf^■T.'s^slif^l:n.  85;  his  proposal,  85; 

faith  rewarded,  86 
Choate,Ho.n.  Joseph  H.,  toprovement 

?o"mmfssi?n.T5T6;f°a\orsl894  Amendment 
190;  opposes  flooding,  2^1 
Chub  River,  I.  346.  347 
Chufifart.  Capt.  F.  E..  I,  245 
Church,  Frederick  E.,  I.  173 
Clark,  Roger  P.,  H.  231 
Clearwater,  II,  140 
grwtHtnS^Tri/^givts  deed  of  John  Brown 

farm  to  State.  197 
Clifford,  Reuben,  1,357         „.q_24i 

S!ro'.V&orPe*«o".%-!n?oV„  and  Co,. 

field  matter,  1,58 
Clough,  Mark,  I.  332 
Cluett,  Walter  H.,  I,  240 
Coaches,  the  four  and  s-^  horse.  II, 
Coats,  Hon.  H.  P.,  I.  235 
CoIbath,Hosea,I,251 
Colburn,  Mace,  I.  251 
Cold  River,  II,  77 

Colden,  David  C,  j-^^     ^^ 
Colden,  Lake,  I.  146,  155,  IW 

Colden,  Mt.,  I.  136 

Cole,  Alpheus,  II,  43 

Cole,  Colonel  Ashley  W.,  U,  lo 

Cole,JospehF.,  I.  \o6 

Coleman,  Samuel,  II,  4cS 

and  Washington   II,  14' 
gK^'fir^ew- fames,    father  of  Verplanck 

Colvin,  II,  166  j^at  R.  L.    S. 

Colvin.  Sir  Sidney   quoted  as  to  w 

wrote  in  Saranac  Lake,  i,  ^' 
Colvin,  Verplanck,  ^  I_  i54;  dis- 

his  measurement  of  Mt^        y^^^  quoted  as 

^°Tu^,n^;"r  ^"a^^!  162;  sketch  of   career,  II, 
164-167 
Commission,  ^,    .or  216;  see  Forest, 

River  Improvement,  "•  l°^''.'Forest  Fish  and 
Fisheries,  Game  and  Fpi^f^^ 'p^rk ;  State  Park 
Game  ■,  Conservation ;  State  ra 

Committee,  .  „,.=„„ te  II,  172;  of  Forestry 
of  Senate  to  if^^^^i^ate^^^^o  ^^S^.appoint- 
of  Chamber  of  Comjuerce,  J  -^  5  Sargeant 
ed  by   Comptroller  Chapin         ^^     ^   ^ment 

175;  report  of  Sargean^c-^t  „ 


jort  of  Sargeant,   1/0,  ^pp 
Martin,  176;  report  of  E.^^^^^ 


of  E.  P:  Martin,  !'«= -^^B^^d  of  Trade  and 
176;  i8q3.  ^.'"'^^'l^'  ill;  Brooklyn  Con- 
Transportation  F^'^^^onstitutional  Amend- 
?^e^n1^^t^^ofNi-•  appointed.  200;  .ssues 


Committee  on  Legislation,  II,  211 

"  Compagnie  de  New  York,  La,"  see  Chassanis 

Tract 
Compton,  Alfred  G.,  II.  89 
Comstock,  Peter,  I.  322,  335,  336 
Congress  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  I,  26.i 
Conservation  Commission, 

created,  II.  234;  of  three  members,  Zi.-y, 
division  and  powers  of,  235;  made  single 
headed,  242;  George  D.  Pratt  appointed,  242; 
changes  in  Conservation  Law.  241;  educa- 
tional propaganda.  242;  squatter  Problcn. 
solved,  243;  Saratoga  Springs  placed  under. 
245;  education  by  lectures  and  pictures,  A)U, 
news  articles,  250;  The  Conservaliontsl.2.A; 
personal  contact.  252;  films  and  slides.  ^52, 
future  struggle.  255  ,  ,  , 

Conservation  Law,  II,  234;  changes  urged  by 

Whitman,  241 
Constable,  James,  I,  66 
Constable,  Town  of,  I,  66 

"Tet'll^ofTi^'H?^,'  I,  66;  his  part  in  Macomb 
Purchase.  67;  sells  land  to  Chassanis,  8^ 

Constable  Point,  11-96 

Constable's  Towns,  I,  66 

Constableville,  I,  66  Q^^tjnn    7 

Constitutional  Amendment,  see  Section  <. 
Article  VII 

Constitutional  Convention,  , 

the  first,  iS04.  H,  189;  the  second,  ,9:5.  243 

Convention  (Constitutional),  II,  189 

Cook,  Fred,  I.  331.334 

Coop4r,  George  C,  I,  254,  280 

Ho^etfesL^fcarl^of'  I,  22,  23;  built  Rustic 

ComeCGovernor.   refers   to   Adirondacks   in 

message,  II.  171 
Cornell  College  of  Forestry,  g    g 

g'cC.^d.i'ii/sre^isrvri.s.HWo,. 

Cornell  University.  II.  202 

Cornwall  bridge,  U.  >^»  .      ,.     Wilderness,  !■ 

Couchsachrage,  a  name  for  the  wua 

Col'n'titf  irFoTett"p?:-vl'l.4;  in  Park  or 

Co';ril^r0.1':.^  Sweeney  Carry  fight,  I,  48 

Cox,  Townsend,  11,  Ub 
Crawford's,  II.  41.  4b 
Cronin.  Mike  guide.  I,  156 
Cusick.  David,  quoted,  1,  ^i 

gSSlSifc.tiw  Co..  Ml....  B.to.  .. 

Dartmouth,  Earl  of.  I,  56 

Dauphin,  mystery  of  lost,  L  73 

Davidson,  Professor  Thomas  .^.  ^^^^, 

dISS%?=1!:^-— 

Davil,  BamettH.,  advice  works  as  a  boomer- 

Davli;  Robin  °eT2y'''' 
Dawson,  George,  I,  ^^=1 

Day.  ChanceUor,  I.  3bo  jq 

Dean.  Amos,  pamphlet,  ii."f. 

Decker's  School.  Mrs  .I.^S.^t^tion  ^^^■,, 

Dedications,  m  the  Trudea"  ^r 


Dedications,  m  ,'-"^; '."— j   286 

of  Stevenson  s  works   l^f»  j^_  gOO 
Deer,  h°«"^'f  civage  I  300,  301 
Delavan,  Dr.  J.  savage, 


370 


INDEX 


Dennison,  Mr.,  I,  233 

Derby,  Ed.,  I,  318 

Derby,  George,  I.  331 

Deserted  Village,  The  (Adirondac),  I,  140 

Desjardins,  Simon,  agent  for  Chassanis  Tract, 
I,  84 

Dettweiler,  Dr.,  I,  255 

Dewey,  Melvil,  see  Lake  Placid  Club 

Dexter,  Henry,  II,  143 

Dexter,  Orlando  P., 

a  student-recluse,  II,  142;  large  estate  of.  142; 
is  murdered,  143 

Dexter  Lake,  II,  142 

Diana,  Town  of,  I,  86 

Dibble,  Norman,  II,  34 

Dibble,  Orion,  II,  35 

Dibble  Street,  in  Prescott.  I.  53 

"  Dibble's  "  (the  Tahawus  House),  II,  48 

Directors,  wealthy  Board  of,  Raquette  Lake 
Railroad,  II,  141 

Dismal  Wilderness,  defined,  I,  12 

"Disturnell's  Gazetteer,"  contains  first  mention 
of  Mt.  Marcy,  I,  154 

Dix,  Gov.  John  A.,  suggests  Conservation 
Commission,  II.  234 

Dixon,  Joseph  ("  Graphite"),  I,  142 

Dix's  Peak,  I,  136 

Does, 

killing  of,  permitted,  II,  253;  killing  of,  for- 
bidden, 254 

Donaldson,  Alfred  L.,  I,  236 

Dornburgh,  Charlotte  A.  (Mrs.  George  L. 
Washburne),  I,  139,  140 

Dornburgh,  Henry,  author  of  Why  the  Wilder- 
ness is  called  Adirondack,  I,  139;  sketch  of 
his  life,  139-140 

Dornburgh,  Robert,  I.  140 

Dornburgh,  William  H.,  I,  140 

Drid  (Peter  Waters),  Indian  killed  by  Nat 
Foster.  I,  119 

Ducey,  Patrick  A., 

first  to  saw  down  trees.  II,  144;  his  mill  at 
Brandon.  144;  offers  land  to  Paul  &nith.  144; 
sells  to  William  Rockefeller,  144 

Duddingston  Loch,  I,  282 

Dunham,  Misses,  II.  44 

Dunlap,  Miss,  I,  184 

Dunmore,  Gov.,  I.  55 

Dunning,  Alvah, 

guide.  II,  105;  appearance  of.  106;  boyhood, 
107;  a  proud  moment.  108;  the  last  moose, 
109;  his  seclusion,  110;  the  hunter.  111;  leaves 
camp,  114;  goes  West,  115;  death,  116 

Dunning,  Dr.  W.  B.,  quoted  as  to  Steve  Martin, 
I,  309 

Dunning,  E.  J.  (Mrs.),  quoted,  I,  312 

Dunning  Camp,  I,  308 

Durant,  Charles,  II,  94,  113 

Durant,  Dr.  Thomas  C, 

his  railroad  career,  II.  90;  builder  of  Adiron- 
dack Railroad.  133.  135 

Durant,  Frederick  G.,  II.  103 

Durant,  Thomas  (Mrs.),  II.  114 

Durant,  William  West, 

buys  much  land,  11.91;  builds  artistic  camps, 
91;  his  Ulowana  yacht,  91;  loses  law-suit.  91; 
Camps  Beautiful.  92;  introduces  coaches,  94; 
establishes  river  boats.  94;  founds  many 
churches.  94.  107.  121,  133 

Duryea,  Colonel,  II,  104 

Duryea,  Rev.  Dr.  Joseph, 

chaplain  of  Civil  War.  II.  77;  friend  of 
Lincoln,  78;  addresses  Congress,  78;  saves 
Princeton.  78;  camps  at  Long  Lake,  78 

Duryee,  George  V.  W.,  I,  239 

Duryee  &  Co.,  I,  239 

Eagle  Lake,  II,  100,  102 
"Eagle's  Nest,"  II.  120 
Early,  maps  and  names  of   Lake    Champlain, 

I,  11 
Early  health-seekers,  I.  267 
"Early  Years  of  the  Saturday  Club,"  referred 

to,  I.  181;  quoted.  183 
East  Lake,  I.  376 


Eaton,  Amasa  M.,  his  paper' on  the  "Gasp6eV 
referred  to,  I,  92 

Eaton,  Chas.  M.,  former  owner  of  Ampersand 
Hotel.  I.  40 

"  Echo  Lodge,"  I.  378 

Eckford,  Henry,  II,  100 

Eckford  Chain,  I,  124;  II,  93,  100 

Edgar,  Edward  C,  first  "sitter-out"  in  Saranac 
Lake,  I,  267 

"  Edgewood  Inn,  The,"  footnote,  I,  304 

Editorial  from  "  New  York  Times,"   II.   280- 
282 

Educational  propaganda, 

by  lectures  and  pictures.  II,  251 ;  news 
articles.  250;  films  and  slides,  252;  The  Con- 
servationist, 251 

"Edward  Jessup  and   His  Descendants,"  re- 
ferred to,  I.  53 

Edwards,  A.  F.,  railroad  engineer,  II,  133 

Ehrich,  Louis,  I,  280 

Elba  Iron  Works,  I,  137,  346 

Elizabethtown,  I.  18,  20.  333 

Elk,   Whitney-Radford  attempt  to  restore,  I. 
207;  II.  210,  244.  245 

Elks  (New  York  State),  Order  of, 

liberate  elks,  II.  244;  discourage  the  wearing 
of  elk  teeth,  245 

Elliot,  Dr.  Daniel  Giiand,  I,  145 

Ellis,  Loring,  I,  268 

Ellis,  Susan,  I,  268 

Elm,  at  Keene  Valley,  II,  30 

Ely's  map,  W.  W.,  I,  340 

Emerson,  Dr.  Edward  W., 

his  Early  Years  of  the  Saturday  Club  referred 
to,  I,  181;  quoted.  183;  letter  of.  giving  key 
to  Stillman's  painting,  186-187 

Emerson,  Ralph  Waldo, 
at  the  "  Philosophers'  Camp,"  1, 178;  his  note- 
book   sketches    quoted,   179;     The  Adiron- 
dacks.  II,  271-280 

Emmons,  Ebenezer, 

namer  of  the  Adirondacks,  I,  36;  sketch  of 
his  life,  36-37j  quoted  as  to  naming  of  Mt. 
Marcy,  152;  l)is  measurement  of  Mt.  Marcy. 
154;  quoted  as  to  Long  Lake,  II,  65;  his 
Geological  Survey,  170 

Emmons  Mountain,  II,  101 

Epps,  Lyman,  II,  19 

Epps  family,  the,  II,  17,  18 

Erie  Canal,  II,  131 

Essex  County,  part  in  "blue  line,"  I,  4 

Estes,B.  B.,  II,  33 

Estes,Otis,  II,  31,  33 

Estes,  Uncle  Joe,  saw  slide  on  Whitefacc.  I.  49 

Estes  House,  II.  48 

"  Etching  as  a  Diversion,"  II.  116 

"  Etiology  of  Tuberculosis,"  I.  253 

Evans,  Lucius,  I.  232,  233 

Evans  Cottage,  I.  267 

Excelsior  House,  The    (The  Sterens   House), 
I,  354 

Fairchild,  Mrs.  Jane  Hopkins,  I.  240 

Fairview  Camp,  II,  95 

Falk,  Miss  Fanny,  II,  44 

Farm,  John  Brown's, 

location  of,  II,  3;  is  taken  over  by  State.  17; 
signatories  of  the  deed.  18;  the  iqi6  tablet  at, 
18;  last  drama  and  ceremony  at,  22 

Farrington,  John  H.,  I.  2.32 

"  Father  Kent,"  a  familiar  Keene  figure.  II.  47 

Faust,  II.  140 

Featherston,  George,  I.  341 

Featherstonhaugh,  Dr.  Thomas,  writes  to  Miss 
McClolIan,  II,  20 

Feldspar  Brook,  I.  163 

Fenton,  Orrin,  I.  132.  133 

Ferguson,  Mose,  I,  357 

Fern  Lake,  I,  355 

Fernow,  Dr.  B.  E., 

training  and  writings.  II,  202;  called  to  Col- 
lege of  Forestry,  202;  his  methods  assailed. 
206;  goes  to  Toronto  University.  203; 
Adirondack  Forestry  Problems,  200;  Begin- 
nings of  Professional  Forestry  in  the  Adiron- 


INDEX 


371 


Fernow,  Dr.  B.  E. — Continued 

docks,  201;  Economics  of  Forestry,  202;  His- 
tory of  Forestry  in  all  Countries,  202 

Ferris,  Jacob,  builds  first  sawmill,  II,  155 

Field,  Miss  Kate,  II,  17 

Field,  Mrs.  Salisbury,  I.  289 

"Field  and  Stream,"  I,  208 

Films  and  slides,  used  by  Conservation  Com- 
mission, II,  252 

Finnegan,  Katherine,  I,  219 

Fire  Finaer  (Osborne),  II,  226 

Fire-places,  see  Open 

Fire  Prevention, 

first  act  concerning,  II,  178;  first  efficient 
system  inaugurated,  225  ;obseTvationstations 
and  other  improvements,  226 

Fires,  see  Forest  fires 

First, 

liorses  in  Saranac  Lake.  I,  297;  Rifle  Club  in 
Saranac  Lake,  302;  trees  cut  down  by  saw, 
II,  144;  aeroplane  in  Adirondacks,  296;  elec- 
tric lights  in  Adirondacks,  296;  automobile, 
296 

First  Bisley  Lake,  II,  160 

First  Pond,  II,  63 

Fischer,  Professor  George  P.,  II,  45 

Fish  House,  II,  129 

Fisheries,  Game,  and  Forest  Commission, 
created,  II,  196;  members  of,  196;  began  issu- 
ing  expensive   reports   with   colored   plates, 
197;  name  changed  to  Forest,  Fish  and  Game 
Commission,  207 

"  Fishing  Tourist,  The,"  quoted  as  to  Franklin 
Falls.7,  337 

Fiske,  Professor,  II,  45 

Fitch,  John,  11,41,43,  45 

Flanders,  "  Cone,"  II,  5 

Flanders,  Martin  P.,  I,  356 

Flanders,  Miss  Frances  J.,  I,  356 

Fleming,  James  W.,  succeeds  Osborne  as  Com- 
missioner, II,  236 

"  Fletcher's,"  II,  90 

"  Floating  annex,"  the,  II,  92 

Flooding, 

damage  by,  II.  208;  suit  by  Dr.  W.  Seward 
Webb,  208;  fight  against  Paul  Smith's  Co. 
for,  220;  recommendation  to  allow,  222,  227 

Flower,  Governor,  signs  undesirable  forest  Bill, 
II.  184 

Follensby,  various  spellings  of,  I,  177 

FoUensby  Clear  Pond,  I.  177 

FoUensby  Jr.  Pond,  I.  177 

Follensby  Pond,  I,  172,  177 

Fontainebleau,  I,  245 

Foote,  Congressman,  I,  149 

Forest  Commission, 

created.  II.  167,  175;  of  three  members,  178; 
increased  from  three  to  five  members,  185; 
replaced  by  Fisheries,  Game  and  Forest 
Commission.  196 

"  Forest  Cottages,"  the,  II,  95 

Forest  Fires, 

of  i8o9.  II,  201;  emergency  measures,  201; 
damage  in  iQOj,  214;  inability  to  cope  with, 
215;  Adirondack  Lodge  destroyed,  214;  losses 
in  iQo8,  223;  campaign  for  better  protection, 
224;  a  conference,  224;  special  committee, 
224;  Osborne  quoted,  224;  of  1911.  236;  from 
lightning,  236 

Forest  Fish  and  Game  Commission, 

created,  II,  207;  reduced  from  five  to  three 
members,  208;  becomes  single  headed,  213; 
replaced  by  Conservation  Commission,  234 

Forest  Preserve,  ,    .„„     ,  ^ 

I.  4-  created.  II,  167-175;  defined.  177;  defi- 
nition altered  bv  laws  of  1885,  177;  altered 
by  laws  oiiSgj,  185;  Board  created,  199;  list 
of  lands.  256 

Forest  Preserve  Board,  II.  199.  208  . 

Foresters,  Independent  Order  of,  buys  Rainbow 
Inn,  footnote,  I.  22 

Forestry  Amendment,  II.  195 

Forestry,  Bibliography  of ,  first  printed.  II,  171); 
reprinted,  180 

Forests,  Superiuttrdent  of,  11.  228 


Forge  House,  The,  I,  128 

Fort  Edwards,  11,  154 

Foster,  Nat, 

occupies  Herreshoff  Manor,  I,  117;  birth  and 
marriage  of,  118;  his  hunting  record,  118- 
his  appearance  and  disposition,  118;  his 
neighbors  on  Brown's  Tract,  119:  the  enmitv 
of  Drid,  119;  the  shooting  of  Drid,  119-120- 
the  trial  of,  121;  moves  to  Boonville  and 
dies  there,  121;  sketch  of  his  life  in  Trafi- 
Pers  of  New  York,  121 ;  biography  by  Byron- 
Curtiss  122;  identity  with  Natty  Bumppo 
claimed.  122;  Hurlburt  letter  quoted,  122; 
V',^-A;°"™^°  quoted,  123;  compared  with 
John  Cheney,  169 

Fouquet  House  (Plattsburg),  I,  249 

"Four-Track  News,"  I,  208 

Fox,  Alanson,  II,  152 

Fox,  Norman,  II,  152 

Fox,  William  F., 

his  long  service  with  State,  II,  228;  his  forest 
record,  229;  Forest  Commission  Report 
quoted  as  to,  229;  Land  Grants  and  Patents  of 
Norlhern  New  York.  230;  History  of  the 
Lumber  Industry  in  New  York,  230 

Francis,  John, 

son-in-law  and  partner  of  John  Brown  of 
Providence,  I.  93;  how  he  acquired  John 
Brown's  Tract,  96;  scored  in  John  Brown's 
will,  98;  death  of.  97 

Francis,  John  Brown,  favorite  grandson  of 
John  Brown  of  Providence,  I,  92;  opens 
"No.  4."  133 

Francis,  Lake,  1,99,  133 

Franklin  County,  part  in  "blue  line,"  I,  4 

Franklin  County  Library,  I,  239 

Franklin  Falls, 

location,  I,  335;  early  history  of.  335; 
destroyed  by  fire,  1832,  335 

Franklin  House,  The, 

at  Franklin  Falls,  I,  335;  destroyed  by  fire, 
3.35;  rebuilt  by  Peter  Comstock,  336;  list  of 
owners,  337 

Franklin  Telephone  and  Telegraph  Co.,  I, 
237 

Frederick  the  Great,  I,  103 

French's,  former  gateway  to  Whiteface  Moun- 
tain, I,  338 

Friedman,  Dr.,  of  Berlin,  his  "cure"  at  Algon- 
quin Hotel,  I,  38 

Fuller  Law,  the,  II,  223 

Fulton,  Robert,  I,  99;  II,  101 

Fulton  Chain,  II.  114 

Fulton  Chain  Lakes,  I,  99 

Fulton  Chain  Station,  (Thendara),  I,  99,  128 

Ganeagaonoga,  Sylvester's  name  for  the  wilder- 
ness, I,  12 

Gardner,  Eva  (Mrs.  E.  C.  Z.  Judson),  II,  121 

Gardner,  Frank  S., 

Secretary  of  New  York  Board  of  Trade  and 
Transportation,  II,  176;  helps  with  Martin 
Bill,  177;  father  of  Section  7,  Article  VII,  188; 
supplies  data,  163;  quoted  as  to  State  con- 
stitution, 188 

Garrett,  Horatio  W.,  I,  254 

Garvin,  Hon.  Francis  P.,  II,  93        „       . , 

"  Gaspee,"  sunk  by  John  Brown  of  Providence, 
I,  90-92 

Gay,  Edward,  II,  43 

Gay,  Mary,  II,  30 

Genealogy  of,  t   000 

Millers  of  Saranac  Lake,  I,  222; 
Moodysof  Saranac  Lake.  214 

General  Hospital  (Saranac  Lake),  I.  240 

"Genesis  of  Ballantrae,  The," quotations  from 
I,  275-276 

George  III,  L  52,  55 

German  Flats  (Herkimer),  I,  la 

Gerster,  Dr.  Arpad  G.,  tt    o-     k» 

supplies  Raquette  Lake  data.  II.  9o;  be- 
friends Alvah  Dunning,  106 

Giant  of  the  Valley,  footnote,  I.  49 

Gibraltar  of  Forestry,  II,  193,  237 

Gifford,  S.  R.,I.  174 


372 


INDEX 


Gilliland,  William, 

his  Journal.  I,  18;  his  Life  by  Watson,  18- 
sketch  of  his  career,  18-20;  Watson  quoted,' 
20;  first  visit  to  Ausable  Chasm,  20 

Gleumore  Summer  School,  story  of.  II   50 

Glens  Falls,  II,  1.54 

"Gloria  Victis,"  statue  by  Merci6,  I,  265 

Glynn,  Gov.,  II,  239 

Goldsmith,  Aaron,  I,  219 

Goldsmith  &  Son,  Aaron,  I,  2.32 

Goldthwaite,  Kenneth  W.,  I.  235 

Goodelle,  Judge  Wm.  P.,  II,  191 

Gospel,  School,  and  Literature  Lots, 

act  creating,  quoted,  I,  79;  all  in   T.  &   C 
Purchase,  80;  now  belong  to  State,  80 

Goss,  Mrs.  Mary  Lathrop,  her  letter  quoted 
about  early  days,  I,  271-272 

"  Gougeville,"  II,  76 

Grand  View,  I.  357 

Gr^n^t  jo^Totten  and   Crossfield,  Indian,  II, 

Graves,  David,  II,  29 
Graves,  Delia  Ann,  II,  30 
Graves,  Jonathan,  II,  33 
Gk-aves  Hotel,  II,  30 
Gray,  Charles,  I.  2.33 
Gray's  Point,  I,  377 
"  Great  Eastern,"  The,  I.  84 
Green  Mountains,  seen  by  Champlain,  I,  9 
Greene,  Caroline  (Mrs.  V.  C.  Bartlett),  I  314 
Greene  County,  in  Forest  Preserve,  I    4 
Greenleaf,  James,  I,  94 
Greenough,  Charlie,  I,  .332 
Gregory,  George,  I.  145 

"  Growth  of  a  Tree,  The,"  noted  pamphlet  by 
Orson  Phelps.  II.  60  ^       f  > 

Guide-boat,  Adirondack,  II,  79 
G«^^<'es,^notable  Long  Lake.  II,  81 ;  registration 

Guilford  (Conn.),  I,  190,  192 
Gunther,  C.  G.,  I,  223 

Haase,  Mrs.  William  H.,  footnote,  I,  280 

Hale,  David,  II,  35,  44 

Hale,  LeGrand,  II,  35 

Haley,  Bartlett,  "  Little  Barty,"  I,  314 

Half-Moon,  sails  up  Hudson.  I,  9 

Hall,  Banjamin  E.,  I,  223 

Hall,  Captain  E.  P.,  II.  21 

Hall.  Dr.  Edward  Hagaman,  II,  211,  212  224 

Hall,  Harrison,  guide,  I,  155 

Hall,  Henry,  I,  223 

Hall,  Miss, 

T''ion^i"^l'''°/'^^'=''"  ^tu"-ay's  first  wife, 
I,  190;  sketch  of  her  career,  191 

Hall,  Sheldon,  father  of  "Adirondack"  Mur- 
ray s  first  wife.  I,  190 

Hall  Point,  I.  377 

Halleck,  Fitz  Greene,  I.  250.  262 

Hallock,  Charles, 

^Fk^S'Fa"s"*337°*^'^'  '^'  ^^^''  "1"°*^^^^  to 
Hamilton  County,' all  in  "blue  line,"  I   4 
Hammersley,  Miss  Libby,  II   44    ' 
Hance,  Dr.  Irwin  H.,  I.  2.')7 
Hancock,  Attorney  General,  denies  right  of  way 

to  Railway,  II,  194 
^1°38  ^™'  ^■'  ^"^^  Algonquin  Hotel  in  1920, 
Hans^on,  J.  H.,  his  The  Lost  Prince  referred  to, 
^Hotef'/°3'8°'  ^"""^^  P^'oPrietor  of  Algonquin 

Harney  (Louis  Fournier,  Long  Lake  hermit). 

storv  01,  11,  /4 
Harper,  A.  R.,  11,  159 
Harper,  Henry  S.,  I,  157 
Harper,  William,  I,  331 

Harper's  Ferry,  II,  3,  8,  10,  12.  15,  18   19  21 
Harnetstown,  as  town  and  village   I    5   fi' 
Harriman,  E.  H.,  I.  247 
Hart,  William,  II,  43 
Hasbrouck  camp.  II,  94 
Hatfield,  Rev.  Edwin,  I,  190 
Hathorn,  Chauncey,  II,  95,  102 


Hawk  Island,  I.  376 
Hayes,  PoUy,  I,  217 
Hazelton,  Moses,  I.  213 
Headley,  J.  T., 

^"°^ed  as  to  Brown's  Tract  and  "Arnold's." 
1,  l/b;  his  p*  Adtrondac.  quoted  as  to  John 
Cheney,  168;  quoted  as  to  Long  Lake.  II  67- 

^»^^fl  f^c^^'P^^'^  Sabattis,  82;  refers  to 
Mitchell  Sabattis,  84  .  ^    i.u 

Heart  Lake  (Clear  Lake),  II,  23.  25 

Heise,  Dr.  Frederick  H.,  I.  257 

Hekking,  A.  H.,  II,  43 

Henderson,  Annie,  I,  145 

Henderson,  Archie,  I.  144.  145 

Henderson,  Charles  Rapallo,  Jr.,  I.  240 

Henderson,  David, 

^^^■?Hnl''^''"^J'^°  ^''°"'S  him  iron  dam.   I. 
13/-138;  purchases  land  for  Iron  Works   138- 
his  lost  journal,  139;  made  manager  of  Iron 
Works,  141;  plans  to  produce  steel,  141-142- 
builds  Lower  Works.  141-142;  meets  "  Graph- 
ite  Dixon,      142;  establishes  first  cast  steel 
plant  in  America,  142;  his  tragic  death,  144- 
his  body  taken  to  Jersey  City,   145;  family 
and  descendants  of,   145;  characteristics  of, 
14b;  his  wilderness  monument.  146;  effect  of 
his  death  on  the  Iron  Works,  146-147 
Henderson,  Lake,  I,  136 
Henderson,  Maggie,  I,  144,  145 
Henderson,  Mt.,  I.  136 
Hendrick  Spring,  II,  75 
Herkimer  County,  part  in  "blue  line."  I,  4 
Herreshofif,  Agnes  Miihler,  I.  103 
HerreshofiF,  Charles  Frederick, 

birth   and    parents.    I.    103;    boyhood,    103; 
petted  by  Frederick  the  Great,  103;  sent  to 
Philanthropin  School."  103;  lands  in  New 
York,    104;   his  command   of   English,    104- 
visits   Providence   and   meets   John   Brown,' 
•  carries  Sarah  Brown,  105;  fails  in  busi- 
ness   105;  his  children,   105-106;  moves  to 
Point  Pleasant  Farm.  106;  makes  costly  im- 
provements,  106;  loss  of  wife's  income,  107; 
goes  to  John   Brown's   Tract,   108;  herd  of 
sheep   driven    from    Providence.    109;    tries 
mining  for  iron,  109;  builds  expensive  forge, 
109;  collapse  of  all  ventures.  109;  the  final 
tragedy,  110;  removal  of  remains.  110;  last 
letter  to  his  wife,  111-112;  last  letter  to  his 
daughter  Anna,  113-114 
Herreshoff,  Lewis,  I,  88 
Hewetson,  Dr.  S.  W.,  I.  257 
Hewitt,  J.  N.B..  quoted,  1,21 
Higgins,  Governor,  II,  218 
Higgmson,   Colonel,  advances  money   to   the 

Browns.  II,  9 
''High  Peak  of  Essex"  (Mt.  Marcy),  I,  47 
Highland  Park,  I,  214,  218;  II,  126,  240,  269 


Higley,  Warren,  I,  205;  II,  159,  210 

.rU-*,,   ■7*''^°'''  Special  Message  of,  II,  181 

'■  Hillside,  The,"  I,  379 

Hinckley,  Alexus.  I,  17 

Hinds,  Billy,  I.  .331 

Hinton,  Colonel  Richard  J.,  II.  22 

Historical  Sketches  of  Franklin  Co.,"  quoted 
<•  ^^°^^  ^^'^<i  mine.  I.  25,  74 

Historical  Sketches  of  Northern  New  York" 
^quoted.  I.  87 

"  History  of  Essex  Co.,"  Watson's  quoted,  1 ,  27; 
^_   bmith  s  referred  to.  27 

History  of  Lewis  County,"  referred  to,  I,  82 

«  #>story  of  Queensbury  "  quoted,  I.  ,52 

History  of  th  e  Lumber  Industry  in  New  York." 

William  F.  Fox.  II,  207 

"  ?fl^^°'"    ^^'    Trudeau's    favorite    dog,    I. 

Hoar.  Judge,  at  the  "Philosophers'  Camp,"  I, 

Hodenosaunee,  early  name  of  land  west  of 
Lake  Champlain,  I.  12 

Hodenosauneega,area  defined  by  Morgan.  1. 12 

Hodge,  Rev.  \ViUiam  H.,  II.  45 

Hoffman,  Chas.  Fenno,  originator  of  "  Taha- 
w^us  I.  4/  ;  quoted  as  to  Cheney  and  Bump- 
po,   123;  his  attempt  to  climb   Mt.   Marcy. 


INDEX 


37S 


Hoffman,  Chas.  Fenno—Continued 

153;  his  Wild  Scenes  in  the  Forest,  quoted  as 
to  John  Cheney,  167 

Hoffman  Tract,  I,  80 

Holden's"  Historyof  Queensbury"  quoted  I  52 

Holland,  John  G.,  II,  90,  97;  his  first  hotel 
burns,  97;  the  mill  incident,  97;  builds  Blue 
Mountein  Lake  Hotel,  102;  the  hotel  burns. 

Holmes,  John, 

at  the  "Philosophers'  Camp,"  I,  185; 
his  Letters  referred  to,  185 

Holmes,  Oliver  Wendell,  refuses  to  join  "  Philo- 
sophers' Camp,"  I,  175 

Holt,  Alvah,  II,  32 

Holt,  Harvey,  I,  153,  358 

Holt,  Smith,  II.  31 

Homer,  Winslow,  II,  43 

Honnedaga  Lake,  formerly  Jock's  Lake,  I,  40 
121;  II,  160 

Hopkinton,  II.  126 

Hopper,  De Wolfe,  I,  352 

Horses,  first  in  Saranac  Lake.  I.  297 

Hough,  Mr.,  builds  "Saranac  Inn,"  I,  317 

Hough,  the  historian,  quoted,  I,  84;  referred  to, 
II,  130 

Hough's"Historyof  St.  Lawrence  and  Franklin 
Counties,"  quoted,  I,  43 

Houghton,  Jim,  I.  267 

Hounding  of  deer,  abolished,  II,  209 

Hovey,  Mrs.  George,  quoted  as  to  early  settlers 
on  Brown's  Tract.  I.  116 

Howe,  Dr.  Estes,  at  the  "  Philosophers'  Camp," 
I,  184 

Rowland,  Henry  E.,  II,  159.  211 

"Hudson,  The," 

by  Lossing,  referred  to.  I,  163;  quoted  as  to 
Long  Lake.  II,  73 

Hudson  River,  I,  9;  on  Sauthier's  map,  13; 
highest  pond  source  of,  162 

Hudson  River  Telephone  Co.,  I,  237 

Hughes,  Governor, 

orders  an  investigation.  II,  223;  receives  the 
report  of  investigators,  231;  suggests  the  issu- 
ing of  bonds,  233 ;  his  forest  record,  233 ;  drafts 
a  model  Bill,  233 

Hull,  Mrs.  Frank,  II,  30 

Hull,  Otis  H.,  II,  48 

Hull's,  11,  48 

Hunkins,  Laura  P.,  I.  295 

"  Hunter's  Home,"  Paul  Smith's  first  hotel,  I, 
322 

Hunting  season,  shortened,  II,  254 

Huntington,  Collis  P.,  II.  91 

Huntington,  Prof.  Ellsworth,  his  Is  Civiliza- 
tion Determined  by  Climate?  quoted.  I.  241- 
242 

Hurd,  John, 

railroad  interests,  II,  137;  forcefulness,  138; 
religious  tendencies,  139 

"  Hurd's  Road,"  II,  137-140 

Hurricane  Mount,  II.  50 

In-ca-pah-co,  II.  63 

Independence  River,  I.  99 

Indian,  „„ 

occupation,  I.  21-28;  relics.  22;  carry,  22,  23, 
24;  burying-ground.  24 

Indian  Carry, 

controlled  by  Swensons,  I.  23;  closed  to 
public,  23 

Indian  Legends,  _       ^.   .  . 

Old  Indian  Face,  I,  29;  The  Division  of  the 
Saranacs,  30;  An  Event  in  Indian  Park,  31; 
The  Indian  Plume,  32;  Birth  of  the  Water- 
Lily,  33 

Indian  Pass, 

location  and  description  of,  1.  164;  Prot. 
Emmons  quoted  as  to.  164;  Street's  book  on, 
referred  to,  164;  present  day  neglect  of,  Ibo; 
letter  of  P.  F.  Schofield  quoted,  165-166;  In- 
dian names  for,  166;  Gertrude  Atherton 
quoted  as  to.  166;  secondary  sources  of  Hud- 
son and  Ausable  in    166 

Indian  Point  (First  Lake),  I,  120;  II,  113 


Indians, 

no  permanent  settlements  in  Adirondacks,  I 
21;  presence  of  an  earlier  people  suggested. 

Inger^'l^rFVaS  tfi^''''  ^^°''''^'"^'  '' 

^"l53™'  ^'  ^■'  ^''^  sketches  of  Marcy  region,  I, 

Injunction, 

^y  Henry  W.  Boyer.  II.  194;  by  friends  of 
forest.  196;  against  Paul  Smith's  Co..  225 

"Inwood,  The,"  1,379 

Iron  dam,  I.  138 

Iron  ore  deposits  in  Essex  County,  I,  137 

Iroquois,  I.  12 

Iroquoisia,   "land    of   Iroquois"   around    Lake 
Champlain,  I.  11,  12 

Jackson,  Frank  M.,  I,  237 

James,  Dr.  Walter  B.,  footnote,  I,  259 

James,  Professor  William,  II,  45 

Jameson,  E.  C,  I,  380 

Jamieson,  Dr.  W.  H.,  I,  257 

Janet  Lake,  II.  101 

Janeway,  Dr.,  I.  246.  247 

Jarvis,  Hugh  S.,I,  378 

Jay,  I,  336,  339 

Jay  (Lower  Jay),  location  of,  I,  .338;  its  growth. 

Jay,  Upper,  I,  338,  339 

Jenkins  Hill,  I,  251 

Jenkins  Pond  (Lake  Madeleine),  I,  74 

Jessup,  Ebenezer, 

Sketch  of  career,  I,  51-53;  goes  to  India  and 
dies  there,  53;  grandfather  of  Morris  K. 
Jesup,  53;  laid  out  T.  &  C.  townships,  57; 
his  55-mile  line,  76 

Jessup,  Edward,  sketch  of  career,  I,  51-53 

Jessup,  Joseph,  I,  51 

Jessup's  Falls,  I,  52 

Jessup's  Ferry,  I,  52 

Jessup's  Lake,  I,  61 

Jessup's  Landing,  I,  52 

Jessup's  Purchase,  same  as  Totten  and  Cross- 
field's  Purchase,  I.  51 

Jessup's  River,  I,  61 

Jesup,  Morris  K., 

philanthropist,  grandson  of  Ebenezer  Jessup. 

I,  53;  his  interest  in  Forest  preservation.  II. 
172,  173.  177 

Jesup,  Rev.  Henry  Griswold,  author  of  Edward 

Jessup  and  His  Descendants,  I.  53 
Jo  Mountain,  named  in  honor  of  Miss  Scofield, 

II.  25 

Jock's  Lake,  I.  40;  (Honnedaga).  121;  referred 
to.  II.  160 

"John  Brown:  A  Biography  Fifty  Years  After," 
quoted,  II.  11 

John  Brown  Association,  The,  list  of  promoters, 
11.  18 

John  Brown's  Tract,  ,  ,      „ 

acreage  of,  I.  88;  named  after  John  Brown  of 
Providence.  89;  originally  J.  J.  Angerstein 
Tract.  94;  various  sales  rehearsed.  94;  James 
Greenleaf  buys.  94;  mortgage  to  Philip  Liv- 
ingston. 94;  Benton's  History  of  Herkimer 
County  quoted,  95;  how  John  Brown  became 
the  owner  of.  96 ;  how  his  partner  came  by  the 
deed.  96;  his  will  quoted  as  to  John  Francis 
and  partition  of.  97-98;  lakes  and  rivers  m. 
99;  Fulton  Chain  and  Robert  Fulton.  99; 
John  Brown's  Tract  Inlet,  99-100;  Raquette 
Lake  R.  R..  99;  Brown's  Tract  Ponds.  100; 
division  into  eight  townships  with  unusual 
names.  101;  Snyder's  paper  quoted  as  to 
settlements  started  by  Brown  in  Townships 
1  and  7.  101-102;  third  and  last  attempt  to 
settle  Township  7.  116;  Chas.  Fred.  Herres- 
hoff  moves  to.  108;  settlers  lured  to,  115; 
the  "Herreshoff  Manor,"  115;  the  first  wed- 
ding on,  115;  story  of  man  threatened  by 
judge  with  deportation  to,  117;  efforts  of 
John  B.  Francis  on.  114;  Nat  Foster  settles 
on.  117;  the  shooting  of  Drid.  119-120;  Otis 
Arnold  settles  on.  123;  the  shooting  of  James 
Short,   127;  Herreshoff   Manor  burns,  127; 


374 


INDEX 


John  Brown's  Tract— CoM/»««ed 

Jvady  Amelia  Murray  crosses.  124-  her  de- 
scription of  "Arnold's."  124-125  Headlev 
quoted  as  to  first  lad^  camperT  126;  tar!y 
description  of,  in  Putnam's  Magazine 
-Arnold-.  ??.~^I^=T,  ^^^'^  description'^of 
1^?.  M!?i  ^l  J.-  B-  Thorpe,  quoted.  131- 
T«i     i  ^°-  f  •  ^r^^  Omn  Penton,  132-135 

Johnson,  WiUard,  I.  119 

Johnson  Hall,  II,  125 

Johnstown,  I,  15;  II,  129 

■^''S'sl'''^**"^'  ^^^  ""^  Mitchell  Sabattis,  II. 

Josly'n,  C.  D.,  I,  380 

Joy.  Major  Abiathar,  I,  115 

Jndson,  Dr.  Edward,  I,  378 

nlT'  ^***"^  ^""^  Carroll,  s€e  Ned  Bunt- 
Kane,  Miss  Mary  A.,  I.  257 

Keene  Center  (Keene), 

the  first  settlers.  II,  29;  the  first  hotel  (now 
standing),  30;  the  giant  elm.  30  ^ 

Ke^e^ne  Valley,  location  of,  II,  29;  its  rare  beauty. 

Keeae  Valley  (Keene  Flats). 

t^''iL^^"'."'io"■.3^•  fi^^t  s«=hool.  32;  school 
Irffit-  °u-  ■^^'  fi"'  school  trustees,  33 
artists  .rallying-ground.  43;  a  rendezvous  for 
professional  men,  45;  Shurtleff,  quoted  as  to, 

34 :  th'^^rhn  °n  h  °^-  ^^i F°^^^  °f  ^^^  school 

J4,  the  school  library,  35 
Keene  Valley  Country  Club,  II,  34 
Keene  Valley  Inn  (Blinn's  Hotel),  II,  49 


Keene  Valley  Library,  II,  32" 
Keese's  Mills.  II.  40 


Keese's  Mills,  II.  40 

KeeseviUe,  I.  333.  336.  342 

KeUer,  Miss  Amelia,  II.  96 

Kellogg,  Henry  D.,  II.  66 

Kellogg,  Orrin,  guide,  I,  156 

Kendall,  Charles  H.,  I,  234 

Kendall,  Dr.  Frank  E..  I,  237,  342   343 

343^"'^  Pharmacy  (Saranac  Lake),  I.  237 
Kenwell,  Ike,  II,  95 
"  Kickerville,"  II.  76 
Kidder,  Dr.  Scott,  I,  222 
Kingsley,  William  L.,  II,  34.  45 
Kirby,  Miss  C.  T.,  I.  256 
"Kitty,"  Dr.  Trudeau's  horse.  I,  259 

flJIt^f  ^^^'^"^^^^'yT^^^^so^e  Pond.  I,  41 
Knevals,  Sherman  W.,  II   178 

'^^'*^^*'^''^*=''^''  Magaaine,"  II.  118 

Koch,  Dr.,  I.  2.53.  255 

Kollecker,  W.  F.,  I,  237 

Konoshion,  early  name  of  land  west  of   Lake 

Cnamplain.  I,  12 
Kora  Lake  (Sumner),  II.  93 
Kossuth,  Louis,  I,  174 
Krumbholz.  T.  E.,  I.  304;  305.  378 
Kushaqua,  Lake,  formerly  Round  Pond.  1,  41- 

site  of  btonywold  Sanatorium  ,41 

Laboratory  (Saranac  Lake),  I,  254 
La  Casse,  Noah,  guide,  I,  155 
Ladew,  J.  Harvey,  II,  95 
Laight,  Dr.,  II,  31.  45 
Lake  Placid  (the  lake), 

piyn^'°°l7«^'  ^-  ■'^^^'  """^^  "^^  377;  Paradox 
fona.  S/b;  prominent  campers  on.  377- 
prominent  hotels  on.  378-380;  early  boats  on.' 

Lake  Placid  (the  village), 
location  of  I  346;  Bennett's  Pond,  346;  early 
settlers  of.  347;  rambling  growth  of  347- 
near-by  hotels  of  early  days,  348-  later-dav 
•V*^''  r^-J.^'^'^  L?^«  P'^^id  Club  365;  first 
store  of.  357;  main  street  of.  357 

Lake  Placid  Club  (Melvil  Dewey), 

location  of.  I,  365;  description  of  by  T.  Morris 
Longstreth,  366-374  yi-iviorris 


"tir^fi?i&r/-|»{  Company.  I.  381 

K:Sa^rKi^"'^3 

Lamora,  Oliver,  story  of,  II,  145-148 
Lamson,  Sarah  E.,  I.  296 

"  v*°?  ,?T?,?,'?  ""<*  Patents  of  Northern  New 
York."  William  F.  Fox.  II.  230 
S^,*y°'  9*S«^'es,  I.  153;  his  Adventures  in  the 
W^l^s^of  America  quoted  as  to  John  Cheney! 

^f*2"'  ^f'- .Walter  H.,  I.  239;  II,  139 
Lathrop,  Azel, 

original  settler  on  Trudeau  site,  I,  268- 
9fiS'i'K  °L^'I  ''^^'  268;  his  house  described," 
269;  builds  first  school  in  his  section,  269' 
founds  Lathrop,  Mich.,  270  ' 

Latour,  Duffield,  I,  332,  333 

Law,  see  Act 

Lawrence's  Tract,  I,  81 

Lead  mine, 

"  ni!f  4^*°  u  "7- *°  ^""^  >*•!•  25;  known  to 
T  .«?        1%^-    ^V  possible  location  of.  26 
Leasmg  of  Forest  lands, 

first    recommendation    for,     II      17Q      iqo. 

amendment  fails,  199  ' 

LirCof^n^'e';  Fra^nc^lffl.^g^'^'^^-'^"'  ""  ^^^ 
Legends,  see  Indian 
Legget,  William  Fox,  I.  377 
Legislature, 

outline  of  legislative  control,  II.  163;  divided 
P^X^f^^^%o^^'l^'^>  ^^^}  ^"^''on  towards  a 
^ul^d  \kl^''  ^"thonzes  first  Topographical 
iurvey!  174  '  ^"*^°"^"  ^^^t  State  Land 
Lenawee,  in  Indian  Plume  Legend.  I  32 
LeRay  de  Chaumont,  James  Donatianus 

interested  in  Chassanis  Tract.  I.  85';  once 
f^^t^  Harrietstown.  86;  built  first  good  road 
o«  ,"iH''"  County,  86;  founded  LeRay ville. 
%*'l  iJ^^^^  ^°  Bonaparte  and  Madame  de 
btael.  86;  dies  in  France.  86 
LeRay  de  Chaumont,  Vincent,  I.  86 
LeRayvilIe,  I,  86 

^^fser  Tracts,  The,  list  and  description  of  17, 
"  Letters  from  the  Backwoods," 

quoted  as  to  Long  Lake,  II.  67;  quoted  as  to 
Captain  Sabattis.  82 
Lewis  County,  in  Forest  Preserve.  I   4 
Lewis  Grab  Bill,  II,  214 
Libby,  Professor  O.  G.,  II,  21 
Libraries,  in  Saranac  Lake.  I.  239 

..  ^oo^n'o"'  \%T  °'  ''''"'''  ^"°«  «""•" 

"Life  and  Letters  of  John  Brown,"  quoted  as 

^^  to  John  Brown,  II,  4 
Life  and  Letters  of  John  Todd,"  II,  64 

Lightning,  fires  from,  II.  236 

Lila.  Lake  (Smith's  Lake),  I.  135 

Lintner.J.  A..II.  182 

List. 

bodies  re-interred  at  John  Brown's  farm,  II, 
21;  early  settlers  at  Long  Lake,  66;  Adiron- 
otc  n  '""^^.^s.  141;  appropriation  for  land. 
255;  Forest  Preserve  Lands.  256;  altitudes  of 
mountains.  283;  trees.  285;  mammals.  286- 

T  •7Ei*^^'"  i^^^-  287-291 ;  birds.  291-296 

Litchfield.  Edward  H.. 

his  park  described.  I.  74;  his  castle  described. 
.74-75;  his  love  of  big  game,  75;  brings  suit 
involving  T.  &  C.  boundary.  75-77 

Litchfield  vs.  Sisson. 

the  line  involved.  I,  74;  story  of  Indians  and 
r"'"'J^\S?"P'^^"'s'i°e,  76;  Jessup's  55-mile 
line,  76;  Mitchell's  line.  76;  Wright's  line  76- 
opinion  of  Referee  Kellogg  quoted.  77 ;  appeal 
dismissed,  77;  old  survey  discovered,  foot- 
note. 76 

Little  Moose  Lake,  II,  161 

Little  Rapids,  I.  261 
;;  Little  Red,"  I,  256 

"  ^'"}f  ^«d,"  The,  not  first  building  ever  built 
on  Sanitarium  site,  I,  266 


INDEX 


375 


Livingston,    Christina,    second    wife    of    Alex. 
Macomb,  I,  63 

Livingston,  Isaac,  I,  213 

Livingston,  Jim,  I,  247 

Livingston,  Lou,  I,  247 

Livingston,  Philip,  I,  63,  94;  II,  63 

Livingston  Manor,  I,  15 

Livingstone,  Dr.  (David),  I.  11 

Locomotives,  Adirondack,  obliged  to  burn  oil. 
II,  240 

Lonesome  Pond,  I,  41 

Long  lake, 

broad  channel  of  Raquette  River,  II,  63; 
Indian  name  of,  63;  location  of,  63;  Dr.  Todd 
and,  64;  the  first  church  service  at,  65;  J.  T. 
Headley  quoted  as  to,  67;  remoteness  of,  67; 
first  sawmill  of.  68;  growth  of,  69;  pamphlet 
advertising,  69;  list  of  early  settlers,  66;  first 
death  at,  71 

Long  Lake  Colony,  II,  67 

Long  Lake  Village  (Gougeville), 

location  of,  II,  76;  first  church  of,  76;  stone 
beach  near,  76;  development  of,  77;  lack  of 
good  road  connections,  77;  Amendment,  per- 
mitting State  road  from  Saranac  Lake  to,  77; 
first  Adirond^k  guide-boat  built  at,  79 

Long  Neck,  I,  72 

Long  Point,  II.  96 

Longfellow,    refuses    to    join    "Philosophers' 
Camp,"  I,  175 

Longstreth,  T.  Morris, 

quoted  as  to  view  from  Mt.  Marcy,  I,  150- 
151 ;  quoted  as  to  Lake  Placid  Club,  366-374 

Loomis,  Dr.  Alfred  L.,  II,  182 

Loomis,  Dr.  Hezekiah  B.,  I,  323 

Loon  Lake  House,  story  of,  I,  355-356 

Lossing, Benjamin  J.,hisTke  Hudson  referred 
to,  I,  163;  II,  54,  73 

Lossing,  Mrs.,  II,  54,  73 

"  Lost  Prince,  The"  (Louis  XVII),  referred  to,  I, 
73 

Lothrop  Stretch,  I,  72 

Lough  Neagh,  I,  72 

Lowell,  James  Russell,  at  the  "Philosophers' 
Camp."  I,  180 

Lower  Works  (Tahawus  P.  O.),  I,  141.  142 

Lowrie,  Rev.  Samuel  T.,  buys  home  from  Orson 
Phelps,  II,  62 

Lumbering,    Adirondack, 

local  terms,  II,  150;  log-lengths,  152;  early 
carelessness,  153;  log  railroads,  156.  hard- 
wood, 157;  romance  gone,  158;  thefts,  217; 
history  of  by  Col.  Fox,  230 

Lundy,  Rev.  John  Patterson , 

his  Saranac  Exiles  discussed.  I.  228;  quoted, 
220;  his  stay  in  Saranac  Lake,  229;  sketch  of 
his  career,  229 

Luzerne,  home  of  the  Jessups.  I,  52 

Lyman,  Colonel  Henry  H.,  II,  18 

Lynch,  Rev.  Father,  II,  19 

Lyon,  Martin  C,  I,  365 

Lyon's  Hotel,  a  pioneer  halfway  house,  365 


McAlpin,  E.  A.,  I,  60 
McCabe,  Patrick, 

appointed   Commissioner,  II,  240;  appoint- 
ment criticized,  241 
McCarthy,  Hon.  Dennis,  II,  95, 
McCleland, Jamie,  I.  125 
McClellan,  Dr.  E.  S.,  I,  240 
McCleUan,  Katherine  E.,  ,    .  , 

her     connection    with    the   buna!     of    John 

Brown's  followers,  II,  20-22 
McClenathan  FaUs,  II,  132 
McClure,  Hon.  David,  presents  Amendment  to 

Convention.  II,  190 
McConnell,  Wm.  F., 

supplies  data,   II,   163;  takes  document  to 

Albany,  190 
McCord,  George,  II.  43 
McCormick,  Daniel,  .    ^,  , 

sketch  of  his  life,  I.  66-67;  his  part  in  Macomb 

Purchase,  67 
McFarlane,  Peter,  II,  137 


Mcl^ntyre,  Archibald,  I,  137,  139,  140.  149,  152. 

Mclntyre,  Caroline,  I,  149 

Mclntyre,  John  McD.,  I,  138   139 

Mclntyre,  R.  H.,  I,  2,J6 

Mclntyre  Bank,  I,  143 

Mclntyre  Iron  Co.,  I,  149 

Mclntyre  Iron  Works,  I,  140 

Mclntyre  Mt.,  I,  I,;6    164 

Mclntyre  Village  (Ad'irondac).  I,  14« 

McKee,  F.  H.,  I,  232 

McKillip,  Dan,  I,  ,J31 

McKim.J.  M.,II,  13,  16 

McKmley,  President,  I.  155,  157 

McLaughlin,  Bill,  II,  139 

McLaughlin,  Chester  B.,  II,  191 

McMahon,  Dennis,  I,  267 

McManus,  Phil.,  I,  331,  332 

McMartin,  Judge  Duncan,  I,  138,  139,  141 

McMartin,  Malcolm,  I,  137.  138 

Mac  Nanghton,  James,  I.  149,  155 

McQuillan,  Henry,  I,  331 

Macauley,  Abigail,  I,  219 

Macbeth,  Madge,  I,  211 

Machold  Law, 

passes,  II,  245;  is  amended,  245;  operation 

delayed  by  World's  War,  246 
Mack,  David,  father-in-law  of  Wra.  J.  Stillman, 

Mackenzie  River,  I,  209,  211 
Macomb,  Alexander, 

sketch  of  his  life,  I,  62-66;  the  "Million 
Bank,"  64;  imprisonment,  64;  buys  land  near 
Spuyten  Duyvil,  64;  his  house,  65;  builds 
mill,  65;  interest  in  hydraulics,  65;  dies  at 
home  of  soldier  son,  66 

Macomb,  John,  I,  62 

Macomb,  Robert,  I,  65 

Macomb  Patent,  II,  184 

Macomb's  Dam  Bridge,  I,  65 

Macomb's  Purchase, 
location  and  areas  of.  I,  62;  assignment  of 
first  patents,  67;  "  Macomb  Patent,"  the,  68; 
application  for,  text  of,  68;  early  resales,  70; 
new  tracts  carved  out  of,  70;  Great  Tracts  I. 
II,  III,  described,  70;  names  of  27  townships 
in  Great  Tract  I,  70;  story  of  Lough  Neagh, 
71;  political  criticism  of,  72;  attempt  to  m- 
volve  Gov.  Clinton,  72;  price  fixing,  73;  St. 
Regis  Reservation,  73;  mystery  of  lost 
dauphin,  73;  Rev.  Eleazer  Williams,  73,  74; 
Hanson's  The  Lost  Prince  referred  to,  73 

Madeleine,  Lake  (Jenkins  Pond),  I.  74 

Maine  Company,  II.  155 

Maintenon,  Madame  de,  I,  46 

Malbone,  Sarah  Eleanor,  I,  221 

Malby,  Senator,  II.  198.  220 

Mallory,  Nathaniel,  I.  339 

"  Mallory's  Bush,"  I,  339 

Mallory's  Grant,  II,  31 

Malone,  II,  152 

Mammals,  Adirondack,  II,  286 

Man,  Major,  I,  25 

Manasquan  (N.  J.),  I,  274  „  _•   , 

Manning,  Estella  E.  (Mrs.  Wm.  A.  Martin), 
first  girl  telegraph  operator  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  I,  268;  sketch  of  her  career,  268 

Manning,  Gabriel,  I,  331  ,    .     , 

Manning,  Mrs.  Gabriel,  daughter  of  Azel 
Lathrop,  I,  270 

Manning,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thomas,  1,  333 

Mansfield,  James,  II.  21 

Mansfield,  Richard,  I,  287 

Map,  earliest  to  show  region,  I,  U 

Maple  Grove  Mountain  House,  It,  4« 

Marcy,  Dr.,  I,  380  .,   r   i-^o 

Marcy,  Gov.  William  Learned,  I,  152 

^fts"  height',  I,  150;  Longstreth  quoted  as  to 
view  from  summit  of,  150-151 ;  first  a.scent  of. 
152;  Prof.  Emmons  quoted  as  to  ijaming  of, 
152-153;  early  climbers  of_  note  152;  Hon- 
man's  experience.  153;  ongm  of  Indian  name 
"Tahawus."  154;  various  measurements  of. 
154-  Catskills  considered  higher  than.  IM, 


376 


INDEX 


Marcy,  Mt.— Continued 

exact  location  of,  155;  Roosevelt's  night 
ride  from,  156-156;  Victory  Mountain  Park 
project,  167 

Marion  Lake,  II,  101 

Marion  River,  II,  97,  101 

Marston,  Edwin  S.,  II,  189,  211 

Martin,  Clarinda,  I,  294,  295 

Martin,  Edmund  Philo, 

appointed  chairman  of  special  committee.  II, 
176;  introduces  new  Bill,  176;  is  offered 
Commissionership,  178 

Martin,  Fred,  guide,  I,  247 

Martin,  Henry  Kilburn,  I,  306 

Martin,  Henry  Wheeler,  kills  last  mouse  around 
Saranac  Lakes,  I,  294 

Martin,  Stephen  C, 

birth  and  marriage,  I,  308;  his  career,  308; 
Murray's  description  of,  309;  letter  describ- 
ing, 309 

Martin,  Susan,  I,  294,  295 

Martin,  William  Allen, 

only  son  of  William  F.,  I,  295;  birth  and  boy- 
hood of,  305;  marries  Estella  E.  Manning, 
305;  his  love  of  machinery  and  boat-building, 
305;  forms  partnership  with  T.  Edmund 
Krumbholz,  305;  his  light  guide-boats  called 
■■  Willie  Allen's  egg-shells,"  306 

Martin,  Wm.  A.  (Mrs.)  I,  292 

Martin,   William  Fortune, 

his  father,  birth,  and  death,  I,  294;  his  ap- 
pearance and  disposition,  295;  his  first  wife 
and  their  children,  295;  death  of  his  only 
daughter,  296;  his  ride  through  the  snow  for 
a  doctor,  296;  his  second  wife.  296;  leases 
Captain  Miller  house.  298;  decidesto  build  on 
Lower  Lake.  298;  description  of  new  hotel, 
298;  the  "hole  in  the  house,"  298;  letter  de- 
scribing the  trip  to  "  Martin's,"  298;  the  old 
guide  house,  299;  the  moving  into  new  hotel. 
299;  distinguished  guests  and  their  relations 
with.  299;  his  character  and  traits.  300;  his 
interest  in  medicine.  301 ;  letter  of  old  patron 
quoted,  301 ;  his  skill  with  his  little  rifle,  302; 
his  fondness  for  cards  and  dancing,  303 ;  loses 
his  hotel,  303;  builds  another  hotel,  303;  his 
failing  health  and  death,  304 

Martin's  Hotel, 

location  of,  I,  292;  Murray's  description  of, 
292;  Wallace's  description  of,  293;  first  of  its 
kind,  298;  the  "hole  in  the  house,"  298;  dis- 
tinguished guests  at,  299;  sold  under  fore- 
closure in  i88i.  303;  becomes  the  "Miller 
House,"  303;  destroyed  by  fire,  303;  early 
health-seekers  at,  267 

Mason,  James  Brown,  I,  93 

Masons,  I,  238 

Masten,  Arthur  H.,  I,  140,  149 

Mather,  Fred,  II,  109,  117,  120,  122,  182 

Matthews,  John,  II.  45 

Mayer,  Attorney-General,  II,  218 

Meacham,  Sam,  II,  127 

Meadowbrook  Farm,  I.  239 

"Medical  Pickwick,  The,"  II,  116 

"Memorials  of  Thomas  Davidson,"  II.  51 

"  Men  I  Have  Fished  With,"  II.  117,  122 

Mercator,  greatest  geographer  of  his  age,  I,  11 

Mercie,  I,  265 

"Meriden  Literary  Recorder,"  I,  193 

Merkel,  Joseph,  I.  237 

Merriam,  John,  I.  267 

Merritt,  General  Edwin  A.,  II,  18 

Merritt-O'Neil, 
resolution    presented,    II,    222;    resolution 
defeated.  222 

Merwin,  Tyler,  builds  Blue  Mountain  House. 
II,  102 

Meserve,  George,  I,  331 

Message,  by  Governors, 

Dix,  II.  171,  234;  Cornell,  171;  Hill,  special, 
181;  Black,  199;  Roosevelt,  207;  Odell,  208; 
Hughes,  emergency.  223 

Middle  Falls,  between  Round  and  Lower 
Saranac  Lake,  I,  307;  State  dam  at,  footnote, 
308; 


Middleton,  DeWitt  C,  II,  213,  218 
Miller,  Annie  O.,  I,  220 
Miller,  Capt.  Pliny, 

pioneer  settler  in  Saranac  Lake,  I,  216;  his 

wife  and  children,  217;  238,  343 
Miller,  Eleanor  S.,  I,  221 
Miller,  Ensine, 

his  two  houses,  I,  217;  his  two  marriages  and 

children,  217,  218;  his  character  and  pursuits, 

218;  his  death,  218 
Miller,  Helen  M.,  I.  221 
Miller,  Homer,  I.  217,  238 
Miller,  John  J.,  built  original   "Riverside  Inn," 

I,  219;  331 
Miller,  Mary  A.,  I,  238 
Miller,  Matt.,  I,  331 
Miller,  Milo  Bushnell,  sketch  of  his  career,  I, 

218.  219;  232,  233,  236,  239,  303,  308 
Miller,  Mrs.  Julia  A.,  I,  256 
Miller,  Prof,  (of  Princeton),  I,  152 
Miller,  Rev.  Elmer  P., 

sketch  of  his  career,  I,  221 ;  accepts  call  to  St. 

Luke's  Church.  221 
Miller,  Roxy,  I,  308 
Miller,  Seaver  A.,  I,  221 
Miller,  Van  Buren, 

moves  to  Saranac  Lake,  I,  219;  his  house  still 

standing,  220;  his  many  activities,  220;  his 

interest  in  education.  220;  opens  State  road 

to  Bartlett's.  220:  entails  heavy  loss.  221 ;  his 

death,  221;  his  wife  and  children,  221 
Miller,  Warner,  II,  159 
Miller  House,  I,  292,  298.  299 
Millers  (of  Saranac  Lake),  genealogical  table 

of,  I,  222 
Miller's  Pond,  I,  41 
"  Million  Bank  "  bubble,  I,  64 
Mills,  Col.  A.  G.,  I.  379,  381:  II,  159 
Minshull,  William,  I.  236 
Mirror  Lake  ^ennett's  Pond),  I,  346,  362 
Mirror  Lake  House,  I,  357 
Mitchell,  Medad,  surveyor,  I,  76 
Moira,  II.  137 
Monell,  Mrs.  Judge,  I.  346 
Montgomerv  County,  I,  16 
Moody,  A.  W.,  I,  3.'}7 
Moody,  Cortez  Fernando,  first  white  baby  born 

in  Saranac  Lake.  I,  214 
Moody,  Daniel,  I.  214 
Moody,  Eliza,  I.  214 
Moody,  Franklin,  I,  214 
Moody,  Harvey,  quoted  as  to  Whiteface,  I,  49; 

214 
Moody,  Jacob  Smith,  first  settler  in  Saranac 

Lake,  I.  213;  sketch  of  his  career,  214 
Moody,  Martin,  sketch  of  his  career,  I,  215 
Moody,  Smith,  I,  214 
Moody  homestead,  I,  214 
Moody,  P.  O.,  I,  215 
Moody  Pond,  I,  214,  282 
"  Moody's,"  earliest  name  for  Saranac  Lake, 

I,  215 
Moodys  (of  Saranac  Lake),  genealogical  table 

of,  1,214 
Moose, 

movement  to  restore  them,  I,  205;  Radford's 

Bill   passed  and  signed,  206;  first  shipment 

liberated.  207;  the  last  Adirondack.  II,  109; 

article    by    Madison    Grant,    208;    Radford 

Moose  Bill,  209 
Moose  Island,  I,  376.  380 
Moose  River  (North  Branch),  I.  99 
Moose  River  Tract,  I.  81;  II,  159 
"  Moosewood,  The,"  I,  380 
Morgan,  J.  Pierpont,  II,  93 
Morris,  Gouverneur,  manages  Chassanis  Tract, 

I,  85 
"  Mother  Johnson's,"  I.  199 
Mountain  Home  Telephone  Co.,  I.  237 
Mountain  Peaks,  Adirondack,  II.  283 
Mountain  View  Lake,  1.  25 
Murray      ("Adirondack"),     William     Henry 
Harrison, 

his  birth,youth,and  schooling,  1, 190;  sketch  of 

his  career,  190-191 ;  callto  Park  Street  Church, 


INDEX 


377 


Murray,  etc. — Continued 

Boston,  1901,  91;  founds  the  Music  Hall  In- 
dependent Congregational  Church,  192- 
vanishes  suddenly,  goes  to  Texas.  192;  opens 
restaurant  in  Montreal,  192;  begins  lecturing 
192;  travels  abroad.  192;  retires  to  Guilford'. 
192;  publication  of  his  Adventures  in  the 
Wilderness,  193;  the  "Murray  Rush."  194; 
satire  in  Harper's  Magazine  quoted,  195' 
his  Adventures  discussed.  196;  apostrophe  to 
"Honest  John,"  196;  "Nameless  Creek"  ad- 
venture, 196;  "Phantom  Palls"  adventure 
197;  "Jack-Shooting  in  a  Foggy  Night,"  198; 
his  praise  of  "Mother  Johnson's,"  199;  his 
error  about  lumbering,  199;  his  camp  on 
Osprey  Island,  199;  his  farewell  tribute  to 
"Honest  John,"  200;  his  friendship  with 
Harry  V.  Radford,  209;  his  biography  by 
Radford,  210;  quoted  as  to  "  Martin's."  292; 
quoted  as  to  Steve  Martin,  309;  II.  90;  113,' 

Murray,  Lady  Amelia  M., 

her  Letters  quoted,  I,  124-125;   first  lady  to 
,, cross  wilderness,  125;  guest  of  honor.  215 
Murray,  Wallace,  I,  235;  II.  30 
"  Murray  Rush,"  The,  I.  194 
Music       Hall     Independent     ConKreeational 

Church,  I,  192 
"Myths   and   Legends  of  Our  Own    Land," 

quoted  I,  29-33 

"  Nameless  Creek,"  I,  196 
Nash,  Jim,  I,  365 
Nash,  Joseph  V., 

owner  of  Nash's  hotel,  I.  349;  his  threshing 
machines,  349;  his  wife  (Aunt  Harriet),  349; 
builds  Excelsior  House.  354 

Nash,  R.,  I,  349 

Nash's  hotel, 

location  of,  I,  349;  "Uncle  Joe."  the  owner. 
349;  early  guests.  350 

Nash's  Pond  (Mirror  Lake),  I.  346 

Natty  Bumppo,  I,  122-123 

Navarre,    Catherine    de,    first    wife    of    Alex. 
Macomb,  I,  63 

"Ned  Buntline's  Own,"  II,  119 

Negro  farms,  the,  how  divided,  II,  6;  transient 
guests  of,  6 

Nehasane  Lake  (Albany  Lake),  I,  41,  135 

Nehasane  Park  Preserve,  II,  140 

Neilson,  JohnF.,  I,  236 

New  York  Board  of  Trade  and  Transportation, 
organized,  II,  170;  joins  with  Chamber  of 
Commerce.  173;  is  left  alone  in  fight.  173; 
Special  Committees  of  1883,  172;  fights  the 
Adirondack  Battle  of  the  Marne.  174;  op- 
poses act  signed  by  Gov.  Flower.  185;  ap- 
points special  Committee  on  Constitutional 
Amendment,  188;  and  A.  P.  A.  defeat  Lewis 
Grab  Bill.  213;  opposes  building  of  dams  by 
Paul  Smith's  Co..  220;  fights  Merritt-O'Neil 
resolution.  222 

"New  York  Journal   and   Patriotic  Register" 
quoted,  I,  64 

New  York  Telephone  Co.,  I..  237 

Newcomb,  I.  170 

Newhall,  Henry  B.,  I.  381 

Newman,  Miss  Anna, 

cousin  of  Dr.  Henry  Van  Dvke,  I.  358;  friend 
of  the  Holts.  358;  her  traits  and  sifts,  358; 
fond  of  hunting,  358;  buys  the  Holt  farm. 
1872,359;  eccentricities  of,  360;  the  fruitless 
farm,  360;  fondness  for  horses.  361;  her 
benevolence.  361;  tribute  paid  to  her  name. 
362;  the  broken  leg  incident.  362;  death  of. 
363 

Newman,  village  of,  I,  358-362  . 

Newspaper,  pulp  requirements  alarming,  II,  212 

Newspapers,  in  Saranac  Lake,  I,  235 

Nick's  Lake,  I.  127;  II.  161 

Nightingale,  Florence,  footnote,  I.  257 

Niles,  Miss  Carry,  I.  314 

Nobleborongh  Tract,  I,  81 

Noke's  settlement,  II.  127 

NorthCreek,  I,  334;  II.  135 


North  Elba, 

tradition  of  Indian  settlement.  I.  26  27- 
Town  organized.  347  ' 

'North  Jay,"  I.  340 

North  River  Head  Tract,  I.  80 

Norton,  Charles  fihot.  stays  away  from  "Philo- 
sophers' Camp."  I    175  /      "«"     rmio 

Norton,  C.  F., 

kin^'^f-^fi?   Carry  fight    I    48;  the  lumber 

.<  «T  "^:  *y"'  ""ys  in  Prankhn  Palls.  336 
Notch  Road,"  I.  .331,  .341.  343 
Number  Four," 

location  of.  I.  132;  origin  of  name.  132 ;  opened 
?y  Gov.  Francis.  133;  inducementstosettlers 
133;  Orrin  Penton  builds  hotel  on  1,33- 
btevens  pamphlet  about.  134;  Fenton  sells  to 
Lewis.  135;  see  Appendix  B..  II.  260-271 

Nursery,  Forest, 

appropriation  for.  II,  209;  established  at 
Saranac  Inn.  213,-  at  Wawbeek  and  Axton 
taken  over  by  State.  217;  experimental 
station  established.  221 

Nursery  Station,  Experimental.  II.  221 

O'Brian,  "Fitch"  (A.  F.),  the  dean  of  stage- 
drivers.  I.  331  ^ 

Observing  Station,  inaugurated,  II.  225-  de- 
scribed. 226 

Oil  burning  locomotives,  ordered  by  law.  II.  240 

O'Kane,  James,  hermit,  I,  134 

"  Old  Beard,"  a  wandering  tinker.  I.  363;  goes 
to  the  poorhouse.  364;  the  hidden  money.  364 

OldForge.I,  114.  128;  11,77, 140 

"Old  Merchants  of  New  York  City."  I.  66 

Old  Military  Road,  I,  269;  II.  72 

Old  Military  Roads,  II,  123-130 

Old  Military  Tract, 

description  of,  I.  78;  why  it  was  created.  78; 
origin  of  name.  79;  boundaries  of.  79;  largest 
townships  are  in.  79;  places  within,  79 

"Old  Rome  and  the  New,  The,"  bv  W.  J.  Still- 
man,  contains  chapter  "The  Philosophers' 
Camp,"  I,  172 

"  Om-soo-wee,"  I.  378 

Onchiota,  I.  41 

Oneida  County,  in  Forest  Preserve,  I,  4 

O'Neil,  Frederick,  I.  270 

O'Neil,  Hon.  Wm.  T.,  I,  270 

O'Neill,  Tom,  II.  40 

Opalescent  River,  I.  163 

Open  fire-places, 

first  in  Lucius  Evans' house.  I.  226;  second  i« 
Andrew  Baker's  house,  226 

Ortelius,  Abraham,  maker  of  earliest  map,  I.  1 1 

Osawatomie,  II.  7.  9,  18.  22 

Osborne,  Thomas  Mott, 

quoted  as  to  fires  in  jgoS.  II.  224;  appointed 
Commissioner.  235 ;  resigns.  2,36 ;  suggested  as 
Conservation  Commissioner.  235 

Osbourne,  Lloyd, 

quoted.  I.  283;  revisits  Saranac  Lake.  289 

Oseetah,  in  Water-Lily  Legend.  I.  33 

Oseetah  Lake  (Miller's  Pond),  I.  41 

Osgood,  Iddo,  I.  .347 

Osier,  Dr.,  I.  2.53 

Osprey  Island,  I.  199;  II.  95.  113 

Otis,  Dr.  Fessenden,  I.  246 

Otter  Creek,  1.99 

"Overlook,"  1.379 

"  Owl's  Head  Inn."  II.  30 

Oxbow  Tract,  1.81 

Oxen,  I,  299;  II,  4 

Palmer  Hill,  I.  268 

Palmer's  Purchase,  I,  80 

Pamphlet,  Amos  Dean's,  II,  69  ... 

Panama  Canal,  first  suggested  by  Champlain. 

I,  9 
Paradox  Pond,  I,  374,  376,  383 
Paradox  Tract,  I,  80 
Park,  see  Adirondack 
Park  Avenue.  II,  126 
Park  Street  Church  (Boston),  I,  190 
Parker,  George  C,  II.  43 


378 


Parks,  private,  II,  148 
Parton,  Arthur,  II,  43 
Parton,  Ernest,  II,  43 
Patrol  system,  II.  226 


INDEX 


Patrol  system,  II.  226 
Pattpn,  Henry,  II,  159 

%"lil?o^^"c^oSa^ir  ^'^'^  '""^  ^''^^  "«» 

mafe^'  n,!!'  Pf  il'°°l:*°  b"-'!  dams,  II,  219; 


_  '     , —  •  t'^-"-i""o  I.U  uuiia  aams,  il.  21' 

Po^s^d^  t2?i:°^.?,r.?L^*>'-..iL9_^  petition  ^p- 


Pa'y"ni?le'n^jS^S  Yfy^*'  w.ns^suit^lsa'^^' 

Payne,  Betsy,  II,  29  ' 

Payne,  Henry  C,  II,  147 

Peacock,  Thomas,  supplies  John  Brown  data, 

Sparse   Edward  L..  I,  317,  318 

60;  182  '  ''"°*^*^  ^^  *°  ^"°°  Phelps.  II, 

Peck's  Corners,  II,  127 

pSTm^.^'h'^"'""'"-*^ 

piJSrit^'iT"!"*""'"''''  "■  ^ 

"Personal  Reminiscences,"  II  84 

dack'°l"49'""^'°^'  ^^''^  "^"^  ^^-^  ^'li^O"- 
Pettis.  C.  R.,  his  career,  II,  230 
Phantom  FaUs  "  (Buttermilk),  I,  198 

Ph^fpTFantli\T*'°^  ^^^^-'^•^  ^-^*-  ^'  S^ 
^'l!llJf^?'?°K^f^°^^,!'^  (0'^  Mountain), 

63  hi,  honfi"'.°,'°l'*'"v."'  ^■^■'  ^'^  boyhood, 
faviifir  ??!,'-^^'  ^^^^  ^^'"'=y  trail,  7^40,  54; 
tion  of  by  Warner.  54;  writes  a  poem    60- 

•'  ^^yi^^ul'^'^^V^I^'^^^  ■'  death  of  ,62  ' 

ni^P.l'anthropin,"  The,  I.  103.  1Q4 

Phi  hps,  Wendell.  II,  15.  16 

Philosophers'  Camp,  The, 

popular  name  of  Adirondack  Club  I  172- 
gathlr'in'^'^yl'H ''*  *?^''"^'  1/2;  date  of  first 
Th^  A^^r.,  I    '  'ies^'ption  of,  in  Emerson's 

son  at  78  °T?"°*^^  ^^  ^°  ''""tine  of  Emer- 
Stnii^L  il^  ^""^""^  notebook  sketch  of 
btillman,  179;Agassiz  at,  179;  Lowellat  ISO 
Judge  Hoar  at,  180;  Prof.  Vi^yman  at  ifo^ 
182- Dr°  F,Vh^-^^  =  "°^^*'°  Woodman  at 
iff:  Stilfr^^l^"''^!^*-  '«4;  John  Holmesat. 
the 'ri,,/.^  ^  water-color  sketch  of.  186- 
Vn„  n  u  ''"^^  Ampersand  Pond.  187-  Dr 
cfubh°ol'se.T8°9*^'^  ^^  *°  ^"'^  «^  Amp'eVsa^d- 

"  w'qfn"''^"'  ^*™P'  The,"  an  essay  by  James 
W.^St.llman.n  Th.  Old  Rome  and  "^IheN^wX 

Pierce,  Capt.  Jas.  H., 

lor!^t\T/oPS'jt'2^-  ''■'  chairman  of 
Pines.  Knotted,  on  Indian  Carry.  1,  28 

fed'to^r?!"  "^  ^''«-'"«-   Valley,"  re- 
Pioneers  of  Saranac  Lake, 

Piseco,  II,  133 

^*l\%2^^^^'  ^^"^tions  and   derivations.    I 

Pisgah,  Mt.,  I,  251 

Pttley,  Mr., foreman  of  SheflBeld  Works.  1, 141 

"Plains  of  Abraham,"  I,  347 
Planting,  see  Trees 
Piatt.  Miss,  II.  43 
Piatt.  Thomas,  C,  II,  78 

155  ^^P''"°'«'''  Plattsburgh  named  after,  I, 
Plattsburgh,  I.  155 


Heasant  Lake,  II,  129 

Plumbley("  Honest"),  John.  I   197    ior.  k,-  t 

sketch  of.  footnote.  200     '    '    ^^   ^^^'  ^"^' 

Wumley,  Jeremiah,  first  child  in  Long  Lake.  II, 

Pomeroy.  M.  M..  II.'l59 

Pond.  Chief  Game  Protector,  is  removed,  II, 

Porter,  Dr.  Noah,  II,  45 

PnfJ%^K"°**'°  (^est  Mountain),  II  45 

Pos    Offic.'^^\'°''^^^  Herreshoff'sdeath  I.  109 

'^7e^nce°f''lr°*'^"  °^  John  Bro'^  of'pr'o'vi- 

KaTGe^rge'D^?  ""^  °^  ''''■  ''  '^ 

first  Conservation  Commissioner,  II.  168- 
his  fitness  for  the  ofBce,  242-  educatiinni 
propaganda.242;solvesthesq4'tterpfoWem! 

Pratt,  H.  M.,  I,  380 

Preacher's  Hill  (Trudeau,  N.  Y.)   I  2flR  97n 

Prescott,  Miss  Mary  R..  I,  240  '    ^ 

Preston  Ponds  Club,  I    148 

"  PHm  A''"'^?.''"  ^"^y  settler  of  Jay.  I,  340 

his  Some  Forgotten   Place  Names  i„  the  Adi- 
sStt'll'^Sr''    '■    ''■'    --*«    '^^'tcVe'll 
PrivateParkLaw.il,  145 
i'roctor.  Emily  Dutton.  I,  240 
Proctor,  Redfield,  Jr.,  I   240 
Prospect    House,  the  (Blue    Mountain)    first 
.hoteltouseelectnclight.il,  103  ^*         * 

P,Wn°J;C^^*T^i'"^^'"  Saranac  Inn,  I.  318 
Pulpwood  Industry,  the,  water  slides,  II,  167 
Purchase  of  Forest  Lands,  plea  for   11    I7s 

ofli^Zh  **°°t*>^y.     early  article  The  Wilds 
oj  Northern  New  York  quoted,  I,  128-129 

Race,  a  prehistoric,  II.  113 

Radford,  Harry  V.  ("  Adirondack  Harry  ") 

n7'-^h,-?h°fK''^"^^''^'°"  Newcombroad.  I. 

3^-^av'^^.yo^?Kf^L«|;^JS^^^ 
f?!i^Tffii-K^^^^-|04^S 
paisn  to  restore  „„o,e.  205;  h  ,  Moo,,  bTi 

ship  with      Adirondack"   Murrav    2n»    W 
biographical  sketch  of  Murray  ^U'  start's^n 

Rainbow  Inn,  I   ^i        '    *•  ^"^^    ^«i 

^Ttl^'l?44^''°°*''y'  ^"PP''^  Keene  Valley 
Raquet'te  Lake 

„  88!°?e  t^To^^^'  "•  ««:  «-tTe?tre?s"o;. 
o'f"!"^  ^"^^  ^°""^'  '°'=^*i°".  "■  89:  register 


Raqnette  Pond,  II,  140 

Raquette  River,  description  of,  I,  42 


INDEX 


379 


Raybrook,  II,  126 

Read,  Minerva  M.,  I.  215 

Reception  Hospital  (Saranac  Lake),  I,  240 

Redfield,  W.  C,  I,  152;  quoted  as  to  Avalanche 
Lake,  163 

Register,  the  Lake  Raquette  House,  II,  89 

Registration,  guides,  II,  250 

Reid,  Miss  Ella,  footnote,  I,  320 

Reid,  Whitelaw,  II,  22 

Reid,  Mrs.  Whitelaw,  I,  257 

"  Reign  of  Terror,"  the,  II,  147 

Remsen  Tract,  I.  81 

Reports,  Forest  Commission  (or  State), 

for  complete  list,  II,  299;  for  details  refer  to 
mention  of  report  under  correspondingannual 
date  in  Chap.  XLIV 

Resolution,  Brooks,   II,    171;    Merritt-O'Neil 
222;  Merritt,  232 

Revolution,  the,  II,  125 

Reynolds,  Charley,  I,  331 

Reynolds,  Judge  John  H.,  I,  223 

Reynolds,  Reuben,  I,  237 

Rhinelander,  Fred., formerly  Rylander,  I,  60 

Rhode   Island   College,   became    Brown    Uni- 
versity, I,  90 

Rice,  Fred  W.,  St.,  I,  307 

Rice,  Levi,  II,  127 

Rice's  Hotel,  bought  by  C.  H.  Wardner.  I,  24 

Rich,  Mr.,  I,  267 

Richards,  George  H., 

his  Memoir  of  Gen'l  Macomb  referred  to.  I, 
63;  quoted,  66 

Richards,  Orson,  II,  155 

Ricker,  Freeman  A.,  I,  267 

Riddle,  D.W.,  I.  319 

Ridenoar,  John  S.,  I,  235 

Riggs,  Mr.  (of  "  Rigg's  Hotel "),  I.  226 

River  Improvement  Commission, 

created,  II,  216;  receives  petition  to  dam 
streams,  219;  Mr.  Choate's  findings.  221 

Rivers,   Miss  Frances  M.,  became  "Adiron- 
dack" Murray's  second  wife,  I.  191 

Riverside   Inn    (Saranac    Lake),   see    Blood's 
Hotel 

Roads,  Old  Military,  three, 
misconception  of,  II,  123;  early  maps  show- 
ing, 123;  course  of  southerly,  123;  course  of 
central,  123;  act  concerning  central,  123;  rail- 
road folder  and  central,  124;  English  flee 
along,  125:courseof  Northerly,  126;old  name 
contracted  to,  128 ;  Act  concerning  southerly, 
129;  names  fattened  by  tradition,  129 

Roaring  Brook  Tract,  I,  80 

Roberts,  Susan  E.,  I.  223 

Roberts,  W.  F.,  I,  238 

Robertson,  Archibald,  I.  141 

Robinson,  B.  and  H.,  I,  155 

Roblee,  Ike,  I.  3.34 

Roch,  Valentine,  I,  273 

Rockefeller,  William, 

buys  land  at  Brandon,  II,  144;  builds  at  Bay 
Pond,  144;  goes  to  court,  145;  is  well  guarded, 
146;  the  post  office  incident,  147 

Rogers,  Capt.  Robt., 
destroyed  Indian  village,  I,  27;  Life  of,  by 
Caleb  Stark,  27 

Rogers,  James,  I,  340 

Rogers  Pulp  Co.,  II.  157 

Romeyn,  Dr.  J.  R., 

the  fisherman,  I,  316;  oldest  patron  at  Bart- 
letfs,  316 

Roosevelt,  Theodore, 

his  ascent  of  Mt.  Marcy,  I,  155;  his  ntght  ride 
from  the  Tahawus  Club  to  North  Creek,  156; 
memoria'  on  road  where  he  became  President, 
157:  consults  Comptroller  Morgan,  II.  201; 
cleans  house,  208;  his  forest  record,  207 

Root,  Hon.  Elihu,  II,  190 

Root,  Russell,  I.  145 

Rose,  Heloise  Durant,  II,  90 

Round  Lake,  I,  311 

Round  Pond  (Kushaqua),  I,  41 

Ruisseanmont,  The,  erection    of.  1,  378;    de- 
stroyed by  fire,  379 

Russell,  II,  129 


Rustic  Lodge, 

'M^kIZV  \'  ^-^^' "°  ''"^''^  8^0""d  there. 
^4,  Knotted  pines  near,  28 

St.  Anthony,  I,  45 

St^Aranack,  probable  derivation  of  Saranac,  I, 

St.  Armand,  I,  45 

St.  Hubert's  Inn  (Beede's), 

l..cation  of,  II   48;  sold  to  Adirondack  Club, 

Stf'dubeTt's  fsle  'ut''  *'=  °"^'"  °'  '''""'•  ^^ 
St.John,E.H..II.68 

St.  John's  Clearing,"  II,  68 
St.  John's  in  the  Wilderness,  I,  328;  II.  127 

St.  Lawrence  County,  History  of,"  II,  130 
bt.  Lawrence  Turnpike,  1,  S6;  II,  129 
St- Luke's  Church  (Saranac  Lake),  I.  239;  II. 

St.  Regis  Palls,  II,  137 

St.  Regis  Lake,  I,  255 

Sabattis,  Captain  Peter  (Pierjoun), 

remarkable  age,  II.  81;  traits,  81;  J.  T.  Head- 
ley  referred  to,  81 ;  a  long  trip  by.  82;  family 

Sabattis,  (guide,  Mountain,  P.  O.),  I  43 

Sabattis,  Hannah,  II,  82 

Sabattis,  Mrs.  Peter,  II,  82 

Sabattis,  Mitchell  (Reverend),  II,  76;  famous 
guide,  81;  remarkable  ancestry,  81;  born  at, 
82;  traits,  83;  his  wife,  83;  large  family  of,  83; 
gets  $2,000  for  church,  84;  tribute  from  J.  T. 
Headley,  84;  the  mortgage,  85-86;  later  life 
and  death,  87;  112 

Sable  Iron  Co.,  The,  I,  340 

Sachs,  Dr.  II,  45 

Sackett's  Harbor  &  Saratoga  R.  R.  Co., 

buys  T.  &  C.  townships,  1 ,  60 ;  plans  extension 
to  Adirondack  Iron  Works,  147 

Sacondaga  River,  II,  129 

Sagamore,  the,  II,  79 

Sagamore  Lake  (Shedd),  II.  93 

Sage,  Dean,  II.  45 

Sagendorf,  Walter,  I,  233 

Sales, 
law  permitting  land,  II,  180;  act  permitting 
timber,  184 

Salmon  River,  I,  45;  II,  152 

Samoa,  I,  281 

Sampson,  Moses,  I,  347 

Sanborn,  F.  B., 

quoted  as  to  John  Brown,  II,  4;  helps  Joha 
Brown,  9 

Sandanona,  I,  45 

Sanders,  Daniel,  I,  323 

Sandidge,  Colonel,  II,  39 

Sandy  Hill,  II.  154 

Sanford,  Lake,  I.  136,  141,  149 

Sanford,  Major  Reuben, 

booms  Wilmington,  I,  343;  his  public  career, 
344 

Santa  Clara,  the  station,  II,  142;  the  rich  man 
of,  142 

Santa  Clara  Lumber  Co.,  II,  139,  155,  203 

Saranac, 

possible  origin  in  Gilliland's  Journal.  I,  18; 
hamlet  in  Clinton  County,  44 

Saranac  Club,  The,  organization,  I,  317;  offi- 
cers. 317 

"  Saranac  Exiles," 

by  Dr.  Lundy.  described  and  discussed,  I, 
228;  quoted.  230 

Saranac  Inn  (Hough's),  .      ^.^ 

location,  I,  317;  erection,  317;  early  diffi- 
culties. 318;  land  purchases  by,  318 

Saranac  Lake  Free  Library,  I,  239 

Saranac  Lake  Golf  Club,  I,  239 

Saranac  Lake  National  Bank,  I,  237 

Saranac  Lake  Village,  ^   ..   .r   ■ 

origin  of  name  discu.'^sed.  I,  44-45;  its  geogra- 
phical complexity,  213;  its  pioneers,  21.3-226; 
in  i8j6.  227;  Dr.  Trudeau's  advent,  227; 
Dr.  Lundy's  book  Saranac  Exiles  described, 
228;  quoted.  230;  early  names  for.  232;  first 
stores  in,  232;  first  church  in,  232;  first  board- 


380 


INDEX 


Saranac  Lake  Village— Co«/in«  erf 
ing  houses  in,  232;  the  Bloods  and  "Blood's 
Hotel,"  233:  the  •'Evans  Cottage,"  233; 
shooting  of  George  A.  Berkeley,  234;  build- 
ings in,  enumerated,  235;  newspapers  pub- 
lished in,  235 ;  first  senator  f ron' ,  235 ;  reasons 
for  growth  of,  236;  incorporation  of.  236; 
national  banks  in,  236;  first  drugstore  in,  and 
developments,  237;  first  telephone  service  in, 
and  developments,  237;  first  schools  in,  and 
developments,  238;  first  library  in,  and  de- 
velopments, 239;  Boys'  Club,  240;  General 
Hospital,  240;  Reception  Hospital,  240; 
Board  of  Trade,  240;  Board  of  Health,  240; 
altitude  and  climate  of,  240;  Prof.  Hunting- 
ton quoted  as  to  advantages  of  variable 
climate,  241 ;  no  danger  from  contagion  in,  242 

Saranac  Lakes  (Upper  and  Lower),  I,  44 

Saranac  River,  1,44 

Saratoga  County,  in  Forest  Preserve,  I.  4 

Saratoga  Springs,  placed  under  Conservation 
Commission,  II,  245 

Saturday  Club,  The,  story  of  its  founding,  I, 
181-182 

Sautbier, 

his  map  of  1777  shows  Tryon  and  Charlotte 
Counties,  1,13;  marks  dawn  of  definiteness, 
13 

Sauthier's  map,  I,  14 

Scanlon,  Mrs.  F.  M.,  Keene  Valley  records,  II, 
32 

Scaron,  Lake  (Schroon),  on  Sauthier's  map,  I, 
13 

Scarron,  Madame,  I,  46 

Schofield,  Peter  F.,  supplies  data,  II,  163 

School,  early  records  of  Keene  Vallev,  II.  33 

Schools,  in  Saranac  Lake,  I,  227,  2.38 

Schroon  (Lake,  River,  Mountain), 

described,  I,  45;  derivation  of,  45-46; 
"  Madame  Skaron  "  theory,  46 

Schroon  River,  II,  152 

Schuyler,  Dr.  Clarkson,  C,  hurries  to  Albany, 
II,  195 

Scofield,  Josephine,  II,  25 

Scott,  Martha,  I,  348 

Scott,  Mary  H.,  married  Andrew  J.  Baker,  I. 
226 

Scott,  Robert  G., 

builds  pioneer  hotel,  I,  348;  his  appearance, 
348;  adopts  two  little  girls.  348 

Scott's  Hotel,  first  Inn  near  Lake  Placid,  I,  348 

Scott's  Ponds,  I.  167 

Scribner,  Charles,  I,  273 

Scudder's  "Life  of  Lowell,"  mentioned,  I.  184 

Seamon,  F.  A.,  I,  380 

Seaver,  Fred  J., 

his  Historical  Sketches  of  Franklin  Co.  quoted 
about  lead  mine,  I,  25;  his  sketches  referred 
to.  footnote.  74 

Section  7,  Article  VII, 

abuses  leading  up  to,  II,  187;  Mr.  Gardner's 
remark,  188;  special  committees  appointed, 
188;  the  "forestry  bigots,"  189;  approach  of 
Constitutional  Convention,  189;  first  draft  of 
Amendment  prepared,  189;  nucleus  of 
Amendment,  190;  document  carried  to  Al- 
bany, 190;  conference  in  Speaker's  room,  190; 
Mr.  Choate's  remark,  190;  Amendment  in- 
troduced, 190;  special  committee  named, 
191;  amendment  boiled  down,  191;  "de- 
stroyed" added,  192;  revised  amendment 
presented,  192;  unanimously  adopted.  192; 
Mr.  Martin's  lucky  7.  192;  vote  at  the  polls, 
193;  goes  into  effect,  194;  attempt  to  antici- 
pate, 194;  hearing  before  Land  Board,  194; 
injunction  served,  194;  hasty  meeting  of 
Forest  Commission  called,  195;  special  train 
for  absent  member,  195;  grant  given  to  rail- 
road, 196;  indignation  and  injunction,  196; 
first  proposed  amendment  of,  198;  defeat, 
199;  Commissioner's  letter  acts  as  a  boomer- 
ang. 199  ;attack  on, /po4, 217;  attack  on,  /  900, 
227;  first  modification  of,  237;  second  modi- 
fication, of,  248;  attack  on,  iqzo,  254;  the 
struggle  of  the  future,  255 


Settlement  on  No.  4,  Historical  Notes,  II, 
260-271 

Sewall,  Dr.  Henry,  I,  257 

Seward,  Mt.,  I,  136;  first  ascent  and  measure- 
ment by  Verplanck  Colvin,  II.  165 

Seymour,  Gov.  Horatio,  I,  124,  215,  223;  presi- 
dent of  first  Park  Commission,  II.  165 

Shaw,  Dr.,  II,  58 

Shaw,  Phebe,  I,  140 

Shaw,  Rev.  James  B.,  II,  45 

Shaw  Robert  (Rev.),  II.  73,  82 

Shearson,  Edward,  I,  149 

Sheffield  Works  (England),  I,  141 

Shene,  Miss  Kate,  I,  314 

Shene,  Martha,  I,  314 

Sheppard,  Jack,  quoted  as  to  Alvah  Dunning, 
II,  117 

Sherman  Lumber  Company,  II,  155 

Shore  Owners  Association  of  Lake  Placid,  The, 
Incorporators,  I.  381;  objects,  381 ;  activities, 
382-383 

Short,  James,  I,  127;  II,  161 

Shurtleflf,  Roswell  Morse, 

comes  to  Keene  V'alley,  II,  38;  his  fondness 
for  sketching,  38;  enlists  in  Civil  War,  3S; 
taken  prisoner,  38;  his  first  flag  taken  and  re- 
turned, 39;  the  Confederate  flag  incident,  39; 
his  artistic  love  for  the  mountains,  40;  his 
Adirondack  visits  and  friends,  40;  buys  and 
builds  at  Keene  Valley,  42;  quoted  as  to 
Keene  Valley.  47 

Shurtleff,  Mrs.  R.  M.  (Miss  Halliday),  II.  38 

Signal  Hill,  I.  355 

Sill,  Louise  Morgan,  II.  63 

Simms,  Jeptha  R.,  his  Trappers  of  New  Vork. 
referred  to.  I.  121;  quoted,  122 

Sing  Sing  Prison,  I.  223 

Sisson,  see  Litchfield 

"  Skanadario,"  I.  378 

Skating  (in  connection  with  R.  L.  S.),  I,  282 

Skinner,  C.  M.,  his  Myths  and  Legends  of  Our 
Own  Land  quoted,  five  legends  transcribed, 
I.  29-33 

Slash,  Railroad,  II,  226 

Smillie,  George,  II,  43 

Smillie,  James,  II,  43 

Smith,  David,  I,  135 

Smith,  Dr.  Normand,  II,  43,  45 

Smith-Gardner  Bill,  II.  239 

Smith,  Gerrit,  I.  269.  347;  II,  3 

Smith,  Henry,  I.  341 

Smith,  Paul  (Apollos), 

dean  of  guides  and  hotelmen.  I.  ."JSO;  the  bell- 
boy story,  321  ;his  land  purchases,  322;  birth 
and  boyhood,  322;  his  second  hotel,. 323;  buys 
more  and  more  land,  324;  his  fortunate  mar- 
riage, 325;  buys  Franklin  Falls  Hotel,  325; 
his  three  sons,  325 ;  death  of  his  wife,  325 ;  his 
devotion  to  her,  326 ;  increasing  Corporations, 
326;  hobby,  traveling,  326;  wonderful  vital- 
ity, 327;  inborn  shrewdness,  327;  sunny 
skepticism,  327; illness,  death  aud  burial,  328 

Smith,  Paul  (Mrs.),  I,  326 

Smith,  Paul,  Jr.,  I,  325 

Smith,  Peter,  I,  347 

Smith,  Phelps,  Jr.,  I,  325 

Smith,  Phelps,  Sr.,  I.  322 

Smith,  Robert,  I,  270 

Smith's  Lake  (Lake  Lila),  I.  135 

Smithsonian  Institute,  I.  209 

Snyder,  Chas.  E., 

his  paper  on  Brown's  Tract  referred  to.  I.  88; 
quoted.  101 

Snyder,  O.  L.,  II.  159 

Snyder,  "  Tony,"  guide.  I.  143.  144 

"Some  Forgotten  Place  Names  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks,"  quoted,  I.  35 

"  Song  of  Tahawus,  The"  (Alfred  L.  Donald- 
son). I.  1.59 

"Spafford's  Gazetteer,"  quoted  as  to  height  of 
Whiteface.  I,  154 

Spartali,  Michael,  father-in-law  of  Wm.  J. 
Stillman,  I,  174 

Spaulding,  T.  N.,  I.  234 

Sperry,  Sanford,  I,  127 


INDEX 


381 


Spinner,  Francis,  I,  223 
Spooner  place,  the,  II,  44 
Spring  Green  Farm,  I,  92 
Spruce  Hill,  I,  334 
Spuyten  Duyvil.  I,  64-65 
Squatter  problem,  solved,  II,  243 
Squires,  Henry  C,  II.  159 
Squires,  Perley  J.,  I,  333 

Stael,  Madame  de,  buys  Adirondack  lands,  I, 
86 

Stage-coach,  the  early,  I.  330 

SLage-drivers,  list  of,  I,  330-331 

Stage-routes,  the  main,  I,  333 

Stanley  (H.  M.),  I,  11 

Stark,  Caleb,  his  Life  of  Capt.  Robert  Rogers 
referred  to,  I,  27 

State   Highway  Amendment,  for     road   from 
Saranac  Lake— Old  Forge.  II,  24S 

State  Highway  from  Saranac  Lake   to  Long 
Lake  and  Old  Forge,  II,  77 

State  HosDital,  Raybrook,  I,  258 

State  Land  Board,  II,  194 

State  Land  Survey,  II,  174 

State  lands, 

withdrawn  from  sale,  II,  172;  first  appropria- 
tion for  purchase  of,  172;  act  prohibiting  sale 
of,  172;  State  Land  Survey  begun,  174;  plea 
for  purchase  of,  denied,  178;  leasing  of,  first 
recommended,  179;  sale  of,  permitted,  180; 
law  repealed  inl<?92,  180;  leasing  amendment 
fails,  180;  exchange  of  and  leasing  authorized, 
183;  act  giving  power  to  sell  timber,  184;  de- 
struction of  buildings  on.  217;  private  funds 
for  lands  near  Lake  Placid,  249;  list  of,  256 

State  Park  Commission,  II,  163.  165,  169,  170, 
171 

State  Water  Supply  Commission,  II,  223 

Stetson,  R.  R.,  II,  48 

Stevens,  E.  P.,  II,  21 

Stevens,  Curtis,  I,  356 

Stevens,  George, 

early  career  of.  I,  355;  hotel  partnership  with 
brother,  355;  local  and  State  popularity,  356; 
illness,  death  and  burial,  356 

Stevens  Henry  C,  I,  357 

Stevens,  Hubert,  I,  356 

Stevens,  John  A., 

his  health  and  trade,  I,  355;  hotel  partnership 
with  brother.  355;  becomes  village  president, 
356;  death  of,  356 

Stevens,  Paul,  I,  356 

Stevens,  Raymond,  I,  356 

Stevens,  W.  Hudson, 

his  pamphlet  on  *'  No.  4."  referred  to,  I,  134; 
see  Appendix  B.,  II,  260-271 

Stevens  House,  The,  (Excelsior  House), 

built  by  Joe  Nash,  I,  354;  beautiful  location 
of,  354;  sold  to  Stevens,  1877,  354;  unique 
record  of,  354;  destroyed  by  fire,  18S7,  354; 
rebuilt  in  part,  354;  frame  blows  down,  354; 
the  famous  "bee,"  354 

Stevenson,   Mrs.  M.  I.,  her  Letters  quoted.  I, 
281,  287 

Stevenson,  Robert  Louis, 

in  Saranac  Lake,  I,  273;  arrival  and  de- 
parture, 273;  offer  from  Scribner's  for  12 
essays,  273;  probability  that  all  were  written 
in  Saranac  Lake,  274;  The  Master  of  Bal- 
lantrae,  275;  The  Wrong  Box  and  other 
works,  276;  complete  list  of  what  he  wrote  in 
Saranac  Lake,  277;  where  he  stayed  in  Saranac 
Lake,  278;  his  letter  about  "  Baker's  "  quoted, 
278;  routine  at  "Baker's,"  279;  the  Ehrichs 
and  Coopers,  280;  his  northern  aloofness  and 
southern  unbending  compared,  281;  his  skat- 
ing on  Moody's  Pond,  282;  scant  mention  of 
skating  in  his  works,  282;  his  freaks  of  sup- 
pression, 283;  his  health  at  Saranac  Lake, 
284;  his  friendship  with  Dr.  Trudeau,  284; 
the  laboratory  episode,  285;  Trudeau  quoted 
as  to,  285:  the  Trudeau  edition  of,  286;  the 
Trudeau  dedications  286,  Bandmann's  visit 
and  the  Mansfield  myth,  287;  changes  in  the 
Baker  Cottage,  288;  Memorial  tablet  of,  by 
Gutzon  Borglum,  288 


Stevenson  Cottage,  I.  278 
Stevenson  Lane,  I,  278 
Stevenson  Society,  The 

meTtmroflsg""''''"""'  ''  288;  firstannual 

^^'f^J'nl.  p'-  ■f?!,^P^  ^-  ^'^  Adirondacks  as  a 

S.i^^J.^Lff'^^r'^'^'2^^ 

^"&ble;i:i36^"^''"^   ^-   -f«   °f   George 

StiUman,  Michael,  I,  174,  186 

Stillman,  Thomas  Bliss,  I,  173 

Stillman,  William  James, 

Ris  Autobiography  of  a  Journalist  referred  to 
1.172;quoted,174.176;sketchofhislife,  173; 
projector  and  manager  of  "Philosophers' 
.Tfr,™^'7o^  u^'  "°tebook  sketch  of,  by  Emer- 
r  ..  'i"^  water-color  of  "Philosophers' 

<-amp  186;  commissioned  to  buy  Amner- 
sand  Pond,  187 

StUlmanBay,  I,  175 

Stoddard,  photographer,  I,  208;  II.  106 

Stoddard's  map,  I.  340 
Stoddard's  Northern  Monthly,"  footnote,  I. 

Stokes,  Anson  Phelps,  I.  2.'')5 

Stone  beaches,  the  Long  Lake,  II.  76 

Stoner,  Nicholas,  I.  118;  II,  IOC,  107,  161 

Stonywold  Sanatorium.  I.  41 

Store,  firrt  in  Saranac  Lake.  I.  224 

Storey,  Prof,  (of  New  York).  I.  l.')2 

Storrs,  Joseph,  a  pioneer  of  jay,  I,  339 

"  Story  of  Mitchell  Sabattis,  The,"  II.  84 

Stott,  Miss  Janet  L.,  II,  91 

Stottcamp,  II.  94 

Strauss,  Nathan,  I,  308;  II.  185 

Street,  Alfred  B.,  quoted  as  to  Indian  Carry.  I, 

24,  153,  164,  166,  215.  223 
Street,  Thomas  George,  e:p!oring  companion 

of  Harry  V.  Radford,  I.  211 
Streeter,  Jemima,  I,  118 
Streeter,  Mr.,  I,  233 
Strong,  Mrs.  Isobel,  I.  277.  289 
Sturges,  Rev.  Philemon  F.,  footnote.  I,  259 
Sullivan  County,  in  Forest  Preserve,  I,  4 
Summit  Water  (Lake  Tear-of-the-Clouds),  I, 

162 
"  Sunnyside,"  I,  377 
Swain  Camp,  I,  308 
Sweeney  Carry,  I,  23;  fight  for  possession  of, 

Swenson,  Eric  P.,  II.  206 

Swenson,  E.  P.  &  S.  A.,  buy  Indian  Carry,  I,  23 

Sylvester,  N.  B., 

quoted,  I,  12,  13;  quoted  as  to  North  Elba.  27; 
quoted  as  to  Indian  burying-ground,  28; 
quoted  as  to  Watson's  Tract,  87 

Table,  see  List 

Tahawus,  Indian  name  for  Mt.  Marcy,  I,  47 

Tahawus  Club,  I,  148,  165;  II,  159 

Tahawus  House,  the,  II,  42 

Tahawus  (P.  O.),  I,  149 

"  Tahawus,  The  Song  of,"  (Alfred  L,  Donald- 
son), I,  159 

Tait,  A.  F.,  II,  41 

"  Tallow  Lakes,"  the,  II,  101 

"  Tamaracks,  The,"  I,  380 

Taylor,  Daniel,  I.  143 

Taylor,  Lady,  1.274 

Taylor,  Livingston,  II.  31  „„   .„„ 

Tear-of-the-Clouds,  Lake,  I,  155,  162,  163,  166 

Telephone  development  in  Saranac  Lake,  I,  237 

Ten  Eyck  camp,  II,  94 

Tender,  Alexis,  I.  347 

Terry,  George  E,  II,  79 

Thacher,  Major,  II.  103 

"Thames  Tunnel,  I.  84 

"The  Porcupine,"  name  of  Thomas  Bailey 
Aldrich  house  in  Saranac  Lake,  I,  290 

Theatrum  Orbis  Terrarum,  first  modern  atlas, 

Thendara  (Fulton  Chain),  I,  128 
Thomas,  Almon,  II,  155 
Thompson,  Andrew,  I.  149 


382 


INDEX 


Thompson,  Frank,  II.  13 

Thompson,  Henry,  II,  5,  7 

Thompson,  Henry  (Mrs.),  Ruth  Brown,  II,  5,  9, 
10,  22 

Thompson,  James  R.,  I,  148 

Thompson,  John  1, 347 

Thompson,  Leander,  II,  18 

Thompson,  R.,  I,  347 

Thompson,  Wordsworth,  II,  43 

Thorpe,  Thomas  Bangs,  his  John  Brown's 
Tract  quoted,  his  description  of  "Arnold's," 
I,  130-132 

Thresher,  Aaron,  drove  herd  of  sheep  from 
Providence  to  Brown's  Tract.  I.  109 

Thurman,  John  R.,  I.  216 

"  Tight-Nipping  "  Road,  II,  36 

Tilden,  Samuel  J.. favors  the  grant  to  railway, 
11.195  .    ^ 

Tillier,  Rodolphe,  agent  for  Chassanis  Tract,  1. 
85 

Timbrel,  Miss  Heloise  Hannah,  II,  90 

Todd,  Dr.  John,  .       , 

as  to  Long  Lake.  II,  64;  his  education,  64; 
preaches,  64;  visits  Long  Lake,  65;  first  ser- 
mon at  Long  Lake,  65;  organizes  a  church, 
66;  quoted  as  to  guide-boats,  79;  referred  to, 
130,  1.33 

Todd,  Dr.  John  E.,  Jr.,  II,  64 

Toll  Gate,  the,  I.  334 

Tomlinson,  T.  A.,  buys  Comstock  s  interests, 
I,  336  _ 

"law,  II.  226;  penalty  repealed,  236;  penalty 
restored,  240 

Topographical  Survey,  II,  165,  169 

Torrey,  Asa,  I,  152 

Totten  and  Crossfield  Purchase, 

a  Colonial  Grant,  I,  51;  named  after  ship- 
wrights. 61;  also  called  Jessup's  Purchase. 
51;  original  application  for,  54;  earlier 
grant  to  Jessup's,  55;  ceremonies  of  signing, 
55;  price  paid  Indians,  55;  fees  to  the  Crown, 
55:  delay  in  issuing  patents,  56;  petition  for 
relief,  66;  loyalty  made  a  condition,  56; 
Edward  Jessup  and  His  Descendants  quoted. 
56;  Letters  Patent  never  issued,  57;  "asso- 
ciates" meet  and  ballot,  57;  list  of  township 
drawings,  67;  towijahips  surveyed  by  Eben- 
ezer  Jessup.  57;  diagonal  slant  of  lines,  57; 
Revolution  ends  negotiations.  57;  petition  for 
re-allotment  by  State,  58;  list  of  new  paten- 
tees, 58-59;  Rylander  township,  60;  Brand- 
reth  township,  60;  lumbering  on  the  latter, 
60;  Macomb  a  patentee.  60;  sale  to  R.R.  Co.. 
60;  places  lying  within,  61;  Indian  deed  of 
Totten  and  Crossfield  Purchase,  II,  257 

Tousley,  Mrs.  H.  H.,  I,  219 

local  definition  of,  I.  5-6;  of  North  Elba,  5-6; 
of  Harrietstown.  5-6;  of  Elizabethtown,  5-6 
Township,  local  definition  of ,  I,  6 

Old 'Military  Tract,   I,  78;   Lesser.  80-81; 

Chassanis.  82-86;  Watson's.  86 
Train.  AbnerL.,  II.  179     ,  ,  ^   ^„^ 

"Trappers  of  New  York,"  referred  to,  1,  121; 

quoted,  122 

'pfa^nting.  II.  209.  217.  221,  222;  selling,  223. 

225;  list  of,  285 
Tremble,  Frank  G.,  I,  333,  336 
Tremble, Fred  T.,  I,  336 
Tremble,  George,  ^        ^     ,     j 

appointed  manager  for  Peter  Comstock,  1, 

3.36;    marries    Miss    E.    D.    Stickney,    336; 

children,  336 
Tremble,  Henry  B.,  I,  336 
Tremble,  Marion  D.,  I,  336 
Tremble,  Mary  E.,  I,  336 

Trembley,  Dr.  C.  C.,  I.  240.  257         _  ,   ,    .„ 
Tromblee,  Oliver,  in  Sweeney  Carry  fight,  1,  48 
Trotman,  J.  C.,II,  43 
"Troy  Times,"  footnote,  I.  22 
Trudean,  Dr.  Edward  Livingston, 

his    Autobiography     referred      to,     1,     Zi6; 


author's  first  meeting  with,  243-244;  his  birth 
and  parents,  244;  his  schooling  in  Paris,  245; 
his  return  to  New  York,  245;  enters  Naval 
Academy,  245;  nurses  brother  who  died  of 
consumption.  245;  drifts  back  to  life  of  idle- 
ness, 246;  falls  in  love,  246;  studies  medicine, 
246;  marrries  Miss  Beare,  246;  forms  partner- 
ship with  Dr.  Otis,  246 ;  develops  tuberculosis, 
246;  ordered  South,  246;  returns  worse.  247: 
goes  to  Paul  Smith's,  247;  visited  by  E.  H. 
Harriman,  247;  goes  to  St.  Paul  for  winter, 
248;  returns  to  Adirondacks.  248;  trip  from 
Malone  in  blizzard,  249;  moves  to  Saranac 
Lake.  250;  his  friendship  with  Fitz  Greene 
Halleck,  250;  his  skill  with  a  gun,  250;  his 
dexterity  in  boxing.  251;  his  favorite  runway 
for  foxes.  251;  his  interest  in  curing  tuber- 
culosis aroused,  252;  repeats  Koch's  experi- 
ments, 253;  discovers  tuberculin,  253;  his 
house  burns,  253;  Mr.  Cooper  offers  to  build 
laboratory,  254;  work  at  the  laboratory,  254; 
projects  Sanitarium.  255;  builds  "Little 
Red  "  in  1884,  256;  "  Trudeau,  N.  Y."  to-day. 
256;  strucrgle  of  the  early  years,  256;  his 
religion,  259;  his  love  for  his  wife,  259;  his 
statue  by  Borglum,  footnote.  258;  personal 
bereavements,  260;  public  honors  and  de- 
grees, 260;  hunting-lodge  at  Little  Rapids, 
261;  paper  on  Optimism  in  Medicine.  262; 
how  he  wrote  it,  263;  his  "upper  porch."  263; 
his  little  dog  Ho- Yen,  264;  his  death  and 
funeral.  264-265;  quoted  as  to  Stevenson's 
health,  284;  quoted  as  to  Stevenson's  charm, 
285;  his  contact  with  Stevenson,  285;  con- 
trasted with  Stevenson,  285;  his  set  of  Steven- 
son's works  and  their  dedications.  286 

Trudeau,  Dr.  Edward  L.,  Jr.,  I,  260 

-  -     -  -».,fc 


Trudeau,  Dr.  Francis  B.,  footnote.  I.  259,  260 

Trudean,  Dr.  James,  I.  244 

Trudeau,  N.  Y.,  see  Adirondack  Cottage  Sani- 


Trudeau  Sanatorium,  see  Adirondack  Cottage 
Sanitariimi 

Trudeau  School  of  Tuberculosis,  I,  258 

Trumbull,  Melville,  II,  46 

Tyron,  Dwight,  II,  41 

Tryon,  Gov.,  his  map  of  /77J.  I.  12,  65,  56 

Tryon  County,  ,     ,       ^ 

on  Sauthier's  map,  I.  14;  named  after  Gov. 
Tryon,  14;  exact  boundaries  of,  14;  stirring 
events  in.  15;  Sir  Wm.  Johnson  in_,  15;  Dutch 
emigrants  in.  15;  the  Palatines  in,  15;  An- 
nals of  Tryon  County  referred  to,  16;  effect 
of  war  on,  16;  name  changed  to  Montgomery. 
16;  old  boundary  discovered,  17;  in  connec- 
tion with  T.  &  C.  Purchase.  55 

Tubercle  bacillus, discovery  of,  I,  253 

Tuberculin,  discovery  of   I,  253 

Tucker,  Preble,  I.  381 

Tupper  Lake  Junction,  II,  140 

Tupper  Lake  Village,  I.  47 

Tupper  Lakes,  I.  47-48  „   ,„ 

Twichell,  Rev.  Joseph,  II.  34.  45.  46.  58. 59 

Ulster  County,  in  Forest  Preserve.  I,  4 

Uncas  Lake  (Mohegan),  II,  93 

"  Uncle  Palmer's,"  I.  199 

"  Under  the  Hemlocks,"  II,  95 

"Undercliff."  I.  378 

Union  Falls.  I.  326 

UpperHudson,  II,  152  ..  to,o 

"Upper  Saranac  Association,  The,"  I.  318 

Upper  Works  (Adirondac),  I.  141.  142,  143 

"Utowana,"  the,  II,  91 

Utowana  Lake,  I,  48;  II,  100 

"Value  of  Optimism  in  Medicine," 

address  by  Dr.  Trudeau,  I,  262;  writing  and 

delivery  of,  263 
Van  Boskorck,  Robert,  II,  43 
Van  Buren,  President,  II.  118 
Van  Dyke,  Dr.  Henry, 

his  Ampersand  quoted.  I,  39;  quoted  as  to 

ruins  of  "Philosophers'  Camp"  on  Amper- 


INDEX 


383 


van  Hoevenberg  Henry  (Vaa|.^^.^^  ^^^^    23; 

^"?fi^7^vnn Hack  Lodge,  23;  becomes  super- 
bmlds  Adirondack  l.oage^  .^^^^^^^ 

l"rdt'irJf,^2'4^1ea|e'.  su.tlof.  26;  flight 
from  burning  Lodge   28 
Vanderbilt,  ^Hred  G^  U.  a^^ 
Vanderbilt,  William  H.,  U.  14" 
Vardon.  Harry,  II,  94 
rr^ee?jl-sB.!f380 

^^ffilf  orplaiTf^o?;  i:  1^57 ;  summary  of  first 
VmaX  O^^^airoVrf  o'nfVoted  as  to  John 
Brown,  II.  11       rim 

^°^b?rgt!sifah:sK- ol'cSer.  I.  333 

^"on'  Constitutional  Amenlment.  II.  m. 
against  new  Amendment  199. ^^.^^_  ^43; 
|S.^dfsTur.'24f;VatrHighway  Amendment, 
249 


Wager  Tract,  IL  161 
Walbridge.  D.  M.,  II.  43 
Walker,  Luther,  II.  33 

Erp/o-fir  quoted    1,21^ 
^ftlrs\^miefB.,'!.^305.318.319 
Wardner,  Chas.  H.,  03  •  buys  Rice's  Hotel, 

^llffet^Tl'boWndiL'ca'rr^lead  mine.  24 

Wardner,  Jaines  M.,  ,;        i_   22;   his 

his.  collection    of    Ind  an   r^^^^^_  ^2;  sketch 
articles  for  3/oy  is'Kc^.'  ^perty  sold, 

of  his  life,  fpotnof;  ^Vgh't.   footnote.   22; 
l°torTotlnfianandTeadn|ne,25 

Washbond,Henry,II,48 

Washbond's,  II,  48 

Washburn.  Jf^P-'f '  ^vf  30 
Washburn,  William,  H.  3U 


^PUttsb^urg  lumber  king.  I.  324;  his  valuable 

ore  beds,  II,  136  ,. 

Weed,  W.  R.,  favors  the  grant  to  railway,  11, 

Weir,  Alden,II,43 

Wells,  William,  II,  29 

Wesleyan  Methodist  Church,  II,  76 

West  of  Road  Patent,  I.  80 

wfst  Moumain'fporter  Mountain),  II,  46 

Weston,  Stephen  F.,  II,  ^'l 

Westside.  The  (Whiteface  Inn),  I,  379 

^SrfW^e'i!(of'Malone).  I,  300 
'^^fcledI'M?dd^;^ton    as    Commissioner,    II, 

218;  criticized,  231 
White,  Theodore,  l,3Kd 
Whte  Church,  The,  story  of.  I.  364 
Whiteface  Inn  (The  Westside)  I.  379 
Whiteface  Mountain,  I.  49.  338 

servation  Law.  II,  241 

Wicker,  Dr.  C.F.,  I.  236 
"  Widow  Beede's,    IL  4» 
Wiggins,  Carleton,  II   43 
Wiggins,Hannah,1.2l/ 

Prof.  Emmons,  1.  3^   ,,„  >i  tt   Rfl 
"Wniie  Allen's  egg-sheUs."n.  80 

Willsboro,  I,  20 

Wilmington,  343;  location  of.  343; 

^arTest  s^tKf  3I3;  Black  Brook  skirmish. 
wll'r^ingttn  Notch,  I  331.343 

Wilmurt,Townot,  11.  'o       __ 
Wilson's  Lake  footnote.  I.  377 

Wood,  G.  H.,  II.  227 
Wood,  Halsey,  I.  379 
Wood,  Jetoffle'/Z's?* 

«;«aV,\.nr'^-^^^^^^^-"''' 

Woodhull  Tract,  1,81 
^"ft^'P^l^loShers^Camp."    I.    182;   or 


Washburn,  >^"'^'?>'  ^  £.,1.  139 
Washburne,  Mrs.  Geo.  ig, 

Washington  County,  I.  lb 

..  Water  Lily,'' The,  ^^t^^,  i    306; 

tef  bu^rdrn?and°c"artr  307;  taken  to  Lake 

Wrtsot'j'ames  Talcot,  sketch  of  his  career.  I. 

Wats'on,  Winslow  C.,  champlain  Valley  re- 
his  Pioneer  «,'^  "'.^•."^HisJo^v  of  Essex  Co., 
ferred  to.  I.  l^A'Vlba  27;  his  History  of 
Tsfefc^Vlnotlf'Strn.n.r.X  wealth  of 

Essex  County.  136 
Watson's  Tract,       eg.  gylvester  quoted.  8' 

description  ot.  1.  oo,  >Ji' 
Wawbeek  Hotel,  48- location  of.  48;  fight 

rrrn«Ttg-_of.;48-49 
ZlThtTe^^rS.  140;  sues  State  for  flood- 
..^Ib^^loolden  Chariot  Route."  II.  141 


hp  •' Philosophers    '-''"  i';    ..Voo 

Woodruff,  R-  E.,  1.  '"■^  04 
Woods,  Edward  A.,  II.  24 

MacCabe,II,241 
World  War,  P- f^^^rveyor,  I,  76 
W"g|jt'  ?"„"iran  I   nsyil.  160 

Camp,"  I.  180 

fsket'to  pay  .1-^  ,C,^e  of'ie^death^of ,  12- 
K^fe^^^afnS  John  Brown  grave.  22 


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