•THE KSW YORK
'UBUC LIBRARY
.\. U. 1)1 UII.Wl
HISTORY
OF THE
CITY OF SPOKANE
AND
SPOKANE COUNTRY
WASHINGTON
From Its Earliest Settlement to the Present Time
By N. W. DURHAM
ILLUSTRATED
History, as it lies at the root of all science, is also the first distinct product of man's
^liiritual nature; his earliest expressions of what can be called thought. — Carlyte.
VOLUME 1
SPOKANE-CHICAGO-PHILADELPHIA
THE S. J. CLARKE PUBLISHING COMPANY
1912
-^^mA
THE NEW YORK
< AND
■ i.ATlONS
PREFACE
In tlie founding and building of Spokane and other cities of the Inland Empire,
we find abundant material for history — a history rich in distinctive local color and
abounding in achievements which well may excite our people's pride and interest.
For the assembling here, within the brief span of forty years, of a prosperous,
progressive and metropolitan population, drawn from the four winds of earth and
dwelling togetlier in successful civic and industrial co-ojieration, constitutes a great
epic achievement; and moreover, an aehiivinicnt whieli. prior to tlie nineteenth cen-
tury, had scarcely a parallel in all the world's long history. New York, founded in
I G'23, possessed a jiopulation two hundred years later that only closely corrt-sponded
to the present population of Spokane: and so late as ISiO, Philadelphia, IGO years
after its colonization by ^^'illia^l Peiiii, ftli 1(1.000 short of Spokane's census return.s
of 1910.
Men and women who came here witli the founding of tlie town, are still among us
in rugged strengtli and creative power; and boys and girls who filled the first classes
in the jjublic scliool are yet young men and women. In all this, there should be found
a brave and inspiring story, and yet a narr.itive that will adiurc witii liistorical
fidelity to truth.
To the eom])ilati()n of this volume the writer has given a little more tlian a year
of continuous and almost undivided efl'ort; but now that his labor is ended, regret
is felt that another year is lacking to im])art to it somewhat of that finish which
should be a distinct eliaracteristie of any historic production. That this brief preface
may not be altogether apologetic, the author may say that lie has endeavored to court
accuracy, and to give Jiis readers a volume which, wliile adequate in detail and com-
prehensive in ])eriod and territory, lias yet attempted to catch tlie spirit of the times.
Assistance and encouragement are appreciatively acknowledged from Mrs. C. L.
Hathaway, August Wolf, John B. Slater, Frank Johnson, H. T. Cowley, Father
Louis J. Taelman, W. P. Winans, W. D. Vincent and J. E. Nessly; to the Spokes-
man-Review and the Chronicle for access to tiieir invahialile files; and to the advisory
board, comprising .lames ]\Ionaglian, James X. Glover, Mrs. W. H. Liidden, D. C.
Corbin, Edwin T. Coman and Ben. Burgunder.
In tlie fullness of time, better histories will be jienned of .Spokane and the In-
land Empire. Tlie author, iiowever, may venture a iiope that in this endeavor he has
gathered u)) some historic data, and has recorded iiere tlie testimony of pioneers
which, without his l;ilior, might have been wholly lost or cloudrd to posterity.
X. \V. 1).
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF HISTORY
FIRST .MENTION OF THE SPOKANES BY LEWIS AND CLARK EARLY DAY SPANISH INFLU-
ENCES JEFFERSON TO JOHN JACOB ASTOR ADVENT OF THE FUR TRADERS, 1811"
12 A NIGHT OF TERROR MASSACRE OF THE CREW OF THE TONQUIN A FRIGHTFUL
REVENGE 1
CHAPTER II
WHITE MEN ON THE SPOKANE
FIN N MACDONALD PROB\BLY FIRST TO VIEW THE FALLS RACE BETWEEN ASTORIANS AND
THE NORTHWESTERS BRITISHERS ESTABLISH SPOKANE HOUSE AMERICANS LOCATE
AT MOUTH OF OKANOGAN A YEAR LATER AT MOUTH OF LITTLE SPOKANE MR.
ASTOr's STOCK OF GOODS HORSEFLESH STAPLE ARTICLE OF DIET ADVENTURES OF
ROSS COX RESCUED BY' FRIENDLY SPOKANES BUFFALO WEST OF THE ROCKIES ■
TRADING WITH THE INDIANS DUEL AT SPOKANE HOUSE GAY LIFE IN THE BALL
ROOM LIFE OF PERIL AND HARDSHIP PASSING OP THE BRIGADES A MOTLEY'
CREW 9
CHAPTER III
BRITISH FLAG SUPPLANTS THE STARS AND STRIPES
TAKING THE FURS DOWN THE COLUMBIA INDIAN THIEF HANGED AT MOUTH OF
PALOUSE GREAT BRITAIN AND AMERICA AT WAR ASTOH BETRAY'ED BY' HIS PART-
NERS AT ASTORIA HIS GREAT ENTERPRISE RUINED BRITISH SEIZE ASTORIA EXPE-
DITION MASSACRED ON HEADWATERS OF THE SNAKE REMARKABLE ESCAPE OF PIERRE
DORION's SQUAW 21
vi CONIKNTS
CHAPTER IV
ODD ( HAKACTKK.S AT SPOKANE HOUSE
INDIANS PASSIOXATEI.V FOND OF TOBACCO HALCYON DAYS FOK THE SI'OKAXES A
FIERY IIIGIII.AXD SCOT- — TAKING AN INDIAN WIFE WAR NARROWLY AVERTED
FLATHEAD GIRLS SCORN WHITE SUITORS OTHERS NOT SO FASTIDIOUS GARDENS
PLANTED ON THE SPOKANE STRANGE INDIAN CHIEF NEAR LOON LAKE REMARK-
ABLE CAREER OF A FREE TRADER 29
CIIAriEK V
rKANKI. UKTWEl-.N Sl'OKANE AND ASTORIA
NAVIGATING THE COLUMBIA A CENTURY AGO FRENCH AND IROQUOIS VOYAGEURS
RANGING OVER THE VAST INTERIOR MELONS AND CUCUMBERS GROWN AT SPOKANE
THE GRAND COULEE INDIAN METHOD OF HUNTING DEER HORSE-RACING IN SPO-
KANE VALLEY DELIGHTFUL TIMES IN 1815 ICE-BOUND ON THE COLUMBIA
SHOCKING TRAGEDY ON THE UPPER RIVER VICTIMS RESORT TO CANNIBALISM
NORTHWEST COMPANY ABSORBED BY' ITS HUDSON's BAY RIVAL 39
CHAPTER VI
AMUSING AND TRAGIC INCIDENTS
DANCING WITH SPOKANE NYMPHS PETER SKENE OGDEN AND HIS INDIAN WIFE FRENCH
THE PREVAILING LANGUAGE OF THE COUNTRY LOUIS LA LIBERTe's WOUNDED PRIDE
THRILLING ADVENTURE WITH A GRIZZLY BEAR ROUGH LIFE OF THE FREE
TRADERS KEEN COMPETITION FORCED RIDE WITH A SUPPLY OF TOBACCO SPO-
KANE WOMEN GREAT SLAVES SHOCKING DOUBLE ACT OF REVENGE iO
CHAPTER VII
EARLY DAY MISSIONS IN THE INLAND EMPIRE
CRUDE MISSION EFFORTS OF CATHOLIC IROQUOIS EMBLEM OF THE CROSS ON THE CO-
LUMBIA INDIAN PILGRIMAGE TO ST. LOUIS ARRIVAL OF REV. SAMUEL PARKER IN
1835 HIS TRAVELS IN THE SPOKANE COUNTRY ARRIVAL OF WHITMAN AND SPALD-
ING WITH THEIR BRIDES OVERLAND JOURNEY OF EELLS AND WALKER WITH THEIR
BRIDES ADVENTURES ON THE PLAINS AND IN THE MOUNTAINS ARRIVAL AT WHIT-
MAN MISHIO.V NEAR WAI.I.A WALLA 61
CONTENTS vii
CHAPTER VIII
FOUNDING A MISSION AMONG THE SPOKANES
EELLS AND WALKER MEET THE INDIANS AT CHEWELAII BIRTH OF FIRST AMERICAN
WHITE BOY IN OLD OREGON EELLS AND WALKER FAJIILIES LOCATE AT WALKEr's
PRAIRIE, NEAR SPOKANE LIVING ON HORSE MEAT INDIAN CUSTOMS DESCRIBED
MISSION LIFE AT TSHIMAKAIN MISSIONARIES DEEPLY DISAPPOINTED MIDWINTER
FIRE HYMN AS SUNG BY THE SPOKANES 75
CHAPTER IX
MISSION LIFE AT WALKERS PRAIRIE, CONTINUED
SEVERE WINTER OF ISlO-il ARDUOUS JOURNEYS BY FATHER EELLS GOING TO COL-
VILLE FOR MAIL DR. WHITMAN'S FAMOUS MIDWINTER RIDE DISCOVERY OF THE
PRECIOUS METALS MOTHERS' MEETINGS SEVENTY YEARS AGO DREADFUL WINTER OF
1846-47 NO NEW BONNETS FOR EASTER SUNDAY FIRST SHOES FOR THE CHIL-
DREN HOW THE MISSION WOMEN MADE CHEESE INDIAN WIFE WHO WAS "a
JEWEL OF RARE EXCELLENCE." 83
CHAPTER X
MISSIONS DESTROYED AND ABANDONED
MISSIONARIES ILL AND DISCOURAGED WHITMAN MASSACRE BRINGS TERROR TO TSHI-
MAKAIN FAITHFUL SPOKANES REMAIN LOYAL MISSIONARIES FLEE TO COLVILLE
GRAPHIC REMINISCENCE OF EDWIN EELLS A THRILLING MOMENT SPOKANES RALLY
TO DEFENSE OF THEIR TEACHERS CAYUSES SEND OUT LY'ING RUNNERS OREGON
VOLUNTEERS COME TO ESCORT MISSIONARIES TO WILLAMETTE VALLEY PATHETIC
FAREWELL ON THE SPOKANE "oUR HEARTS WEEP TO SEE YOU GO." 89
CHAPTER XI
FOUNDING THE FIRST CHURCHES AROUND SPOKANE
FATHER EELLS RETURNS TO THE BUNCHGRASS REGION TWELVE YEARS AT WALLA
WALLA FOUNDS WHITMAN ACADEMY SPALDING RETURNS TO THE NEZ PERCES
BAPTIZES 2,53 SPOKANES EELLS VISITS HIS OLD FRIENDS ON THE SPOKANE DELIV-
ERS FIRST FOURTH OF JULY ADDRESS AT COLVILLE ORGANIZES AT COLFAX FIRST
CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH NORTH OF SNAKE RIVER ELECTED SCHOOL SUPERIN-
TENDENT OF WHITMAN COUNTY LIFE AS A CIRCUIT RIDER OUT OF COLFAX
MOVES TO MEDICAL LAKE DEDICATES CHURCH AT CHEWELAH ORGANIZES CHURCH
I (ONTKNTS
AT MKDIIAI. I.AKK Ills « UUK l.N SPOKANE OKGANIZES CHlRtU AT SI'HAGLE
HIS LAST DAYS AT TAlo.MA TRIBUTES TO HIS MEMORY MISSION' WORK AMONG THE
NKZ I'EHCES LIKE WORK OF REV. II. II. M-ALDING A DEVOTED BAND GENERAL
Howard's tribute to .miss .m'betii 95
CIlAl'TEK XII
U. T. ( ()\\ I.I.V I'KI.I.S 01 I. UK ,\.M()\(, I'HK .SPOKANES
begins mission «()1ik with thk xez i'er(es in 1871— becomes an independent
TEACHER AT SPOKANE IN 1871— FAMILY LIVES ON DRIED SALMON AND VENISON
OPENS SCHOOL IN INDIAN LODGE INDIANS HELP TO BlILD SCHOOLHOLSE AND
DWELLING Foil Mil. (<)« LKV EAGER TO LEARN WAYS OF CIVILIZATION SLIGHT RE-
SPECT FOR PRIVACY GIFTS COME FROM AFAR FINDS INDIANS HONEST AM) KIND
TEACHES FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL, WITH Sl.\ PUPILS 107
CHAPTER XIll
cwTiioi.ir Mis.mox.s i\ the ixi.axd empire
REV. MODEST DEMERS DESCENDS THE COLUMBIA IN 18,S8 MAKES A .MISSION TOUR OF
INTERIOR THE FOLLOWING YE.\R ST. MARy's ESTABLISHED IN 181-1 BY FATHER
DESMET AND OTHERS COEUR d'aLENE MISSION ESTABLISHED ON THE ST. JOE.
1842 TRANSFERRED TO THE COEUR d'aLENE IN 1816 FATHER .JOSET IN CHARGE
ST. IGNATIUS MOVED FROM LOWER PEND d'oREILLE RIVER TO MONTAN.\ SACRED
HEART MISSION TRANSFERRED TO DESMET— MISSION LABORS AMONG THE NEZ PER-
CES MISSIONS IN THE COLVILLE COUNTRY PRESIDENT OF GONZAGA VISITS THE
CALISPELS ARMY OFFICER'S DESCRIPTION OF THE OLD MISSION OF ST. IGNA-
"r"" 113
CHAPTKU XIV
( .\ I IIOI.IC -MISSIONS— tC).\ TIN LED
FATHER DESMET .lOlRNEYS I.N A BARK CANOE, TO THE HORSE PLAINS I.\ MONTAN.\
RETURNS TO KALISPEL BAY AND FELLS THE FIRST TREE FOR THE MISSION — DISCOV-
ERS LIMESTONE CAVE ON LOWER I'KNI) I)'oUi:i I.I.E (iOKS TO W 1 1.1. AM KTTK VALLEY
FOR SEEDS AND IMPLEMENTS RETURNS AND ERECTS A LITTLE CHAPEL OF BOUGHS
— POETIC DESCRIPTION OF KETTLE FALLS ESTABLISHES MISSION OF ST REGIS IN
(1)1. Villi: VM.l.KV MEETS PETER SKENE 0(il)KN IN THE NOHTIIEUN WILDERNESS
E.VI'HESSES HIS OPINION OF THE OREGON QUESTION HOW THE CA.MAS HOOT WAS PRE-
PARED DESMET RANGES FAR, TO THE HEADWATERS OF THE COLUMBIA INTEREST-
ING IILA( KFOOT TII\1>IT1<)\ AN INDIAN HEAVEN MISSIONARY'S REMARKABLE
JOURNEY FROM THE ATHABASCA TO KETTLE FALLS HOW THE ARROW LAKES WERE
NAMED J23
CONTEXTS ix
CHAPTER XV
CATHOLIC MISSIONS— CONCLUDED
OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM OLD WALLA WALLA TO THE SPOKANE DESMET TAKES A
FRIENDLY INDL\N PIPE FROM THE SPOKANE TO COLVILLE TRIP FROM SPOKANE
TO THE COEUR d'aLENE MISSION A SUMMER ENCAMPMENT DESCRIBED TAKING
"pot luck" with INDIANS SUPERSTITIONS OF THE COEUR DALENES THEY WOR-
SHIP A WHITE man's SPOTTED SHIRT AND BLANKET MISSION EFFORTS OF AN IRO-
QUOIS CHIEF FATHER POINt's LABORS AMONG THIS TRIBE GOVERNOR STEVENs'
HOSPITABLE RECEPTION AT THE OLD MISSION MISSIONARIES TAKE THE OATH OF
ALLEGIANCE TO THE U. S. CAPTAIN m'cLELLAN AMONG THE VAKIMAS ST. MICH-
AELS MISSION NEAR HILLYARD FATHER CARUANA AMONG THE SPOKANES 135
CHAPTER XVI
GOVERNOR STEVENS' OVERLAND EXPEDITION OF 1853
FIRST GOVERNOR CLOTHED WITH REMARKABLE POWERS ON THE SUMMIT OF THE COEUR
d'aLENES GUEST OF CATHOLIC FATHERS AT OLD MISSION IN CAMP AT WOLf's
LODGE GOVERNOR OBSERVES SPOKANES AT THEIR DEVOTIONS FIRST VIEW OF LAKE
COEUR d'aLENE MARCHING DOWN THE SPOKANE VALLEY GOVERNOR VISITS THE
FALLS INDIAN VILLAGE AT MOUTH OF HANGMAN CREEK PUZZLED BY CHIEF
GARRY FORCED RIDE TO COLVILLE MEETS CAPT. GEORGE B. m'cLELLAN BOUNTI-
FUL SUPPER SERVED BY MRS. m'dONALD STEAKS COOKED IN BUFFALO FAT LISTENS
TO TALES OF ADVENTURE 1 tO
CHAPTER XVII
FROM SPOKANE TO WALLA WALLA AND VANCOUVER
m'cLELLAN procrastinates on THE COLUMBIA AND IN THE CASCADES HAD LITTLE
FAITH IN THE COUNTRY STEVENS ASSEMBLES HIS PARTY IN CAMP WASHINGTON
CHEERED BY A KEG OF COGNAC VISITS OLD MISSION ON WALKEr's PRAIRIE COL-
VILLE VALLEY SETTLERS SEEK NATURALIZATION FIELD CAPITAL NEAR SPOKANE
FEASTING IN CAMP WASHINGTON BEEF HEAD, TE.XAS FASHION ARMY OFFICERS
SHRINK FROM WINTER SERVICE GARRY TELLS STEVENS OF INDIAN MYTHS ACROSS
THE PALOUSE COUNTRY FINE POTATOES IN WALLA WALLA VALLEY TRIBUTE TO
MARCUS WHITMAN DOWN THE COLUMBIA IN A CANOE GUEST AT VANCOUVER OF
CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE 157
X coxTi'.vrs
CIIAPTKK Win
Ol.VMl'lA. Till', HA( KWOODS CAl'ITAL, I.V 1853
FIVE days' hard travel FROM VAXCOfVKR GOVERNOR DRENCHED IN AN INDIAN
CANOE HEARTY IMDNKER (iHEETIXO— MRS. STEVENs' ORAl'HIC PICTl'RE OF THE
sylAIin llTTl.i: ( MMT\I. "wiim- a I-HOSPECt!" she breaks down and (HIES —
LATER LEARNED TO LOVE THE COUNTRY AND ITS PEOPLE HORSEHACK ACROSS THE
LOVELY PRAIRIES PLEASING PICTURE OF FATHER HICARd's MISSION COLUMBIA
LANCASTER ELECTED TO ( ONORESS BUSY DAYS FDU THE GOVERNOR MENA(KI) BY
POLITICAL RUIN PEREMPTORY ORDER FROM JEFFERSON DAVIS STEVENS GOES BY
SEA TO NATIONAL CAPITAL HIS ENEMIES ROUTED 167
CHAPTKK XIX
XEGOTIATIN(. TRKA 11 KS W ITII THi: INTKHIOK TKIIJKS
STEVENS PLlNliES INTO AN AHDIOUS TASK WALI.A WAI.F.A A (JIIEAT COUNCIL GROUND
GOVERNOR MEETS THERE .").()()() INDIANS IN 1 8.") J NEZ PERCES MASS A THOUSAND
WARRIORS A STRIKING PAGEANT IIAU(iHTY MESSAGE FROM THE YELLOW SERPENT
KAMIAKKX PROUD AND SCORNFUL FEASTING, HORSE-RACING AND FOOT-RACING
INDIAN ORATORY AND SARCASM CHIEF LAWYER EXPOSES A PLOT TO MASSACRE THE
governor's party -C()NSP1HA( V is thwarted THE TREATIES EXPLAINED A
STARTLING 1N< IDENT STORMY COINCIL TREATIES CONCLUDED CELEBRATED WITH
A SCAI.P 1)\N( E 171
CHAPTER XX
NEGOTIATI\(; 'rrii', FI.ATIII'.AD Tin atv t\ moxtaxa
WALLA WALLA COUNCIL BREAKS UP TRAILS FILLED WITH WILD AND PICTURESQUE
CAVALCADES GIFTS FOR THE SPOKANES STRIKING BORDER CHARACTERS PEARSON
THE EXPRESS RIDER STEVENs' LITTLE PARTY MOVES EASTWARD ACROSS THE INLAND
EMPIRE GREAT COUNCIL ON THE IIELLGATE GOVERNOR STEVENS EXPLAINS THE
TREATIES MORE INDIAN ORATORY COTTINO THE OORDIAN KNOT "eVERY MAN
PLEASED AND EVERY MAN SATISFIED." 189
CHAP TKH XXr
PEACE COUNCIL W Till Till: WAR I, IKK IiI..\CKFEET
couriers 8um.mon numerous tribes great council at mouth of the judith
Nebraska's commissioner procrastinates — stevens' opening address — treaty
CONTENTS xi
NEGOTIATED AFTER THREE DAY CONFERENCE COATS AND MEDALS GIVEN TO THE
CHIEFS GERMAN SONGS ROLL ACROSS THE MISSOURI HOMERIC FEAST OF BUFFALO
RIBS AND FLAPJACKS LISTENING TO THRILLING TALES OF TRAPPER DAYS 197
CHAPTER XXII
TRIBES OF INTERIOR TAKE TO THE WARPATH
NEWS TO SHAKE THE STOUTEST HEART GOVERNOR CUT OFF FROM OLYMPIA PEAR-
SON 's DESPERATE RIDE THROUGH HOSTILE COUNTRY STEVENS ADVISED TO DESCEND
THE MISSOURI AND RETURN BY SEA REJECTS THAT COUNSEL AND BOLDLY RETURNS
BY DIRECT ROUTE CROSSES BITTER ROOTS IN THREE FEET OF SNOW STARTLES
INDIANS BY SUDDEN APPEARANCE IN COEUR d'aLENES FORCED MARCH TO THE
SPOKANE MEETS MINERS FROM COLVILLE COUNTRY STORMY COUNCIL WITH SPO"
KANES GARRY VACILLATES STEVENS BLAMED FOR YAKIMAS OUTBREAK SPOKANES
CONCILIATED "sPOKANE INVINCIBLEs" ORGANIZED AS MILITIA COMPANY NEZ
PERCES GIVE GOVERNOR AN ARMED ESCORT HOSTILES ROUTED BY OREGON VOLUN-
TEERS STEVENS RETURNS SAFELY TO OLYMPIA 201
CHAPTER XXIII
GOVERNOR STEVENS AN ARDENT INLAND EMPIRE BOOSTER
SENJ/S OPTIMISTIC REPORTS TO WASHINGTON FORESEES GREAT FUTURE FOR WALLA
n-ALLA, PALOUSE, YAKIMA, SPOKANE AND OTHER REGIONS REMARKABLE FORECAST
OF country's RESOURCES POINTS OUT VALUE OF LOGGED OFF LANDS REMARKABLE
RIDE BY HIS 13 YEAR OLD SON CHARMED BY WESTERN MONTANA AND IDAHO PAN-
HANDLE PREDICTS DEVELOPMENT OF MANY RICH MINES m'cLELLAN BERATES THE
COUNTRY- IS PRAISED BY JEFFERSON DAVIS, WHO WANTS TO DISCOURAGE NORTHERN
DEVELOPMENT ~'3
CHAPTER XXIV
CONFEDERATED INDIAN WAR OF 1858
WAR FLAMES KINDLED OVER A WIDE AREA CAUSES LEADING UP TO THE OUTBREAK OF
TRIBES NORTH OF SNAKE RIVER YAKIMAS REPUDIATE TREATY AND MURDER THEIR
AGENT STEVENS BITTERLY ASSAILS COMMANDER AT FORT VANCOUVER STEPTOe's
ILL-FATED EXPEDITION HIS CANDID P.EPORT OF THE DISASTROUS REPULSE 2-1
\
xii CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXV
DETAILED ACCOLNT OF THE STEI'TOE RETREAT
INDIAN HOSTILITY A SURPRISE HOSTILES OPEN FIRE OFFICIAL REPORT OF KILLED
AND WOUNDED FATHER JOSEt's ACCOUNT OF THE TRAGEDY DEVILISH INTRIGUES
OF THE PALOUSES RECOLLECTIONS OF A SURVIVOR STEPTOE SAVED FROM ANNI-
HILATION BY NEZ PERCE ALLIES FAITHFUL OLD TIMOTHY MEMORIAL PARK
MARKS THE SITE OF STEPTOE's LAST STAND PATRIOTIC GIFT OF DAUGHTERS OF
THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION ''i'^9
CIIAPTKR XXVI
roi,()Ni;i. wnK. Ill's ( ampaicx of hffrisal
WAR DKI'ARTMEXT ACTS Willi yl UK VIGOR — STRONG COMMAND SENT OUT FROM WALLA
WALLA SAVAGES MASS FOR THE CONFLICT ARE INSOLENT AND DEFIANT BOLDLY
ATTACK THE TROOPS ARE ROfTEI) WITH HEAVY LOSS NEAR MEDICAL LAKE LT.
Kll-'s GRAPHIC ACCOUNT OF THE BATTLE WILD KLUillT OF THE ALLIES NEZ PER-
CES CELEBRATE WITH A WAR DANCE HOSTILES RALLY FOR ANOTHER ATTACK FIRE
THE PRAIRIE GRASS SCENES OF WILD CONFUSION BATTLE OF THE SPOKANE
PLAINS 239
CHAPTER XXVII
WRIGHT DICTATES STERN TERMS TO THE VANQUISHED
COMMAND BREAKS CAMP AND MOVES UP THE SPOKANE GARRY SUES FOR PEACE WRIGHT
HANGS FIRST VICTIM CAPTURES AND KILLS VAST HERD OF INDIAN HORSES RUNNER
BRINGS LETTER FROM FATHER JOSET INDIAN BARNS AND GRANARIES BURNED
CHIEF VINCENT OF THE COEUR d'aLENES BEGS FOR PEACE COMMAND MARCHES TO
COEUR d'aLENE MISSION PEACE COUNCIL A SCENE OF BARBARIC COLOR INDIANS
TERRIFIED BY APPEARANCE OF DONATl's COMET 21-y
CHAPTER XXVIII
HOW HANGMAN CUEKk DKR1\ED ITS NAME
WRIGHT HOLDS A COUNCIL WITH THE SPOKANES CANNY OLD COLVILLE CHIEF SPO-
KANE CHIEFS HUMBLED KAMIAKEN ELUDES ARREST QUALCHIEN COMES IN AND
IS PROMPTLY HANGED DIES LIKE A COWARD OWHI SHOT IN A DASH FOR LIBERTY
SIX MORE INDIANS HANGED ON HANGMAN CREEK SIXTEEN IN ALL ARE VICTIMS
OF THE NOOSE -REMAINS RECOVERED OF SOLDIERS WHO FELL IN STEPTOE's
,„.,,.,. 253
CONTENTS xiii
CHAPTER XXIX
WRIGHTS RETURN MARCH TO WALLA WALLA
TELLS THE PALOUSES THEY ARE RASCALS AND DESERVE TO BE HUNG TREATS THEM AS
OUTLAWS, BUT PUTS THEM ON PROBATION HANGS FOUR AS A WARNING TO THE
OTHERS "CUTMOUTH JOHN" A CONSPICUOUS FIGURE MILITARY HONORS FOR THE
GALLANT DEAD LIEUTENANT KIP's PREDICTION "tHE WAR IS CLOSED" COLONEL
Wright's final report 261
CHAPTER XXX
REMARKABLE EARLY HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY
FIRST CREATED IN 1858 AREA OF 75,000 SQUARE MILES PUBLIC OFFICES GO BEG-
GING OLD PINKNEY CITY THE COUNTY SEAT FIRST LEGISLATOR MURDERED BY
INDIANS FIRST POLITICAL CONVENTION UNION SENTIMENT STRONG-^COURT
HOUSE OF logs; HAD BEEN A SALOON HIGH PRICES IN THE 60s GOLD DISCOVERED
ON THE PEND d'oREILLE MILITARY POST ESTABLISHED AT FORT COLVILLE CALI-
FORNIA VOLUNTEERS A BAD LOT GRAND MILITARY BALL AT THE FORT PIONEER
DISTILLERY RAIDED EARLY DAY EXECUTIONS, LEGAL AND OTHERWISE 265
CHAPTER XXXI
INLAND EMPIRE HISTORY IN OLD LEGISLATIVE ACTS
DISCOVERY OF GOLD EARLY FERRIES AND BRIDCiES STEAMBOATS ON COLUMBIA AND
SNAKE MEMORIALS FOR TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILROAD SCHEME TO TURN PEND
d'oREILLE RIVER INTO THE SPOKANE ARMS SENT TO MINERS GOLD HUNTERS OVER-
RUN NEZ PERCE RESERVATION TOWN OF LEWISTON LAID OUT CANADIAN "RECI-
PROCITY" MINERS CLAMOR FOR BETTER MAIL SERVICE FIRST BOOM IN THE INLAND
EMPIRE SPOKANE COUNTY ANNEXED TO STEVENS DEALING WITH THE CHINESE
WALLA walla's FIRST LITERARY SOCIETY JAMES MONAGHAN GRANTED BRIDGE
FRANCHISE ON THE SPOKANE COAST MERCHANTS COMPETE WITH ST. LOUIS ORE-
GON TRIES TO ANNEX WALLA WALLA FAMOUS OLD MULLAN ROAD PRICES OF WALLA
WALLA PRODUCTS 279
CHAPTER XXXII
LEGISLATIVE HISTORY CONTINUED
MAIL BETWEEN WALLA WALLA AND PINKNEY CITY LEGISLATURE PLEADS POVERTY
PRAIRIE FIRES AGITATION TO ANNEX IDAHO PANHANDLE CLAMOR FOR LAND
OFFICE AT WALLA WALLA SETTLERS COME INTO PALOUSE COUNTRY WHITMAN
CONTENTS
COrXTY CREATED CONDITIONS IN COLVII.LE VALLEY DEGINNING OF FAMOUS LIEU
LAND STRUGGLE AGITATION FOR AN OPEN HIVEK EARLY DAY ROAD BUILDING
LAWFUL FENCES DEFINED LAND OFFICE AT COLVILLE MILITARY POST AT SPO-
KANE CREATION OF SI'OKANE COUNTY FIRST APPLICATION OF THE REFEREN-
DUM I'KOllimriON STRU' ALONG THE NORTHERN PACIFIC GROWTH OF THE TER-
RITORY .MEMORIAL FOR MILITARY TELEGRAPH LINE 299
CHAPTER XXXTTT
"THE DAYS OF OLD. THE DAYS Ol' (iOI.D"
SPOKANES SELL (iol.l) IN 1 H.") 1- PIERCk's DISCOVERIES IN THE CLEARWATER COU.N'TRY •
THOUSANDS OF .MINERS HASTEN TO THE .NEW CA.MPS JOAQUIN MILLER AN EXPRESS
RIDER FABULOUS YIELDS IN OLD FLORENCE CA.MP E.\-GOVERNOR COLE's RECOL-
LECTIONS HIGH PRICES IN THE MINES FIRST TRIP OF STEAMER COL. WRIGHT
RICHEST PLACES IN THE U. S. HOW FLORENCE AND OTHER CAMPS WERE DISCOV-
ERED FAMINE AND HARDSHIPS (iOI.I) BY THE QUART REIGN OF CRIME AND TERROR
AMAZING ESCAPE FROM THE GALLOWS LYNCHING AT LEWISTON 315
CHAPTER XXXIV
IMMIGRATION OF THE EARLY SEVENTIES
ARRIVAL OF OLDTIME CALIFORNIA AND IDMIO MINERS THOMAS NEWLON ESTABLISHES
A FERRY NEAR TRENT WILLIAM SPANGLe's STAGE STATION FIRST SETTLER AT
MEDICAL LAKE M. M. COWLEY LOCATES IN SPOKANE VALLEY D. F. PERCIVAL IN
ROCK CREEK REGION COPLEN FAMILY" AT L.VTAH WORLD's L.\RGEST MASTODON
DISCOVERED SPOKANE's FIRST BRASS BAND 325
CHAPTER XXXV
EARLY SETTLEMENTS BY THE FALLS OF THE SPOKANE
ARRIVAL OF DOWNING AND SCRANTON IN 1871 THEIR "mULEy" SAW THE FIRST INDUS-
TRY RECOLLECTIONS OF "bABE" DOWNING ARRIVAL OF JAMES N. GLOVER IN 1873
HE BUYS OUT SCRANTON AND DOWNING PLATS THE FIRST TOWNSITE GIVES
FREDERICK POST FORTY ACRES TO START A FLOUR MILL^ARRIVAL OF A. M. CANNON
AND J. J. BROWNE TROOPS MOVE TO LAKE COEUR d'aLENE FIRST PIIY'SICIAN, AND
FIRST DRUGSTORE CANNON STARTS A BANK SPOKANe's FIRST GUN PLAY HOVT
THE PIONEERS LIVED THE FIRST NEWSPAPER BUSINESS LOTS GIVEN AWAY TRADE
WITH THE INDIANS 329
CONTEXTS XV
CHAPTER XXXVI
NEZ PERCE WAR AND MASSACRES OF 1877
savage devotion to a cause josepil's love for the wallowa valley indl\n
bureau vacillates first conflict with settlers fanatacism of the
"dreamers" — Joseph's band ordered to nez perce reserve — war party pre-
pares FOR THE CONFLICT CAMAS PRAIRIE SETTLERS ATTACKED MEN, WOMEN
AND CHILDREN MASSACRED SHOCKING ATROCITIES SETTLERS FLEE TO PLACES OF
REFUGE FIERCE AND SANGUINARY BATTLES WITH U. S. TROOPS .TOSEPh's REMARK-
ABLE RUNNING CAMPAIGN SETTLERS IN SPOKANE REGION ARE TERRORIZED TAKE
REFUGE ON HAVERMALE ISLAND J. N. GLOVEr's RECOLLECTIONS WAR PARTY
DANCES NIGHTLY BY THE FALLS ARRIVAL OF THE TROOPS M. M. COWLEYS REMIN-
ISCENCES 343
CHAPTER XXXVII
SOME FIRST THINGS BY THE FALLS
Spokane's first "civic center" — first white child — first boarding house, hotel
AND restaurant FIRST LAW OFFICE, WATER SUPPLY, CHURCH, BRIDGE, TELE-
PHONE, ETC. FIRST CHRISTMAS TREE AND FIRST FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION
REMINISCENCES OF FRANCIS H. COOK APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN IN 1880 FIRST
TOWN GOVERNMENT START OF THE FIRE DEPARTMENT J. T. DAVIE TELLS OF
THE FIRST BRICK KILN AND FIRST BRICK BUILDINGS HISTORY OF THE PUBLIC
LIBRARY 355
CHAPTER XXXVIII
CONCISE REVIEW OF TOWN, 1874 TO 1887
H. T. COWLEY ARRIVES WITH BAND OF NEZ PERCE HELPERS APPEARANCE OF VILLAGE
IN IS?! INDIAN SCARE POW-WOW IN FRONT OP GLOVEr's STORE FIRST SCHOOL
DISTRICT ORGANIZED ELECTION IN GLOVEr's HOUSE FIRST CHRISTMAS TREE AND
SUPPER NEZ PERCE INDIAN WAR ARRIVAL OF TROOPS RELIEVES THE TENSION
BROWNE AND CANNON ARRIVE GRAND OPENING OF THE CALIFORNIA HOUSE
CHENEY CAPTURES THE COUNTY SEAT FIRST BRICK BUILDING INCORPORATION
OF THE TOWN CITIZENS CELEBRATE ARRIVAL OF NORTHERN PACIFIC, 1881 SPO-
KANe's first big FIRE RUSH TO THE COEUR d'aLENES LAST SPIKE DRIVEN IN
N. P. CITY ACQUIRES THE WATER SYSTEM DEVELOPMENTS IN COLVILLE COUNTRY'
PIONEER STREET RAILWAY SPOKANE REGAINS COUNTY SEAT 369
xvi CONTKNTS
CIIAPTEU XXX J X
DISCOVKH^• AM) 1)K\' I'.l.C )!' M I'.Nl' ()l- ( Ol-.IH DAI.ENES
EXISTENCE OK GOLD KNOWN IN 'jOs lU-LLAN SAW NUGGETS THERE IN VKUY EARLY
DAY A. J. PRICHAHD FIRST SVSTKMATIC PROSPECTOR HONORS DIVIDED WITH TOM
IHWIN PRICHARD's STORY SCHEME TO COLONIZE COUNTY WITH "lIBERALS"
DISCOVERY NEAR MURRAY WILD STAMPEDE OF '83 KEEN RIVALRY BETWEEN
SPOKANE AND AMBITIOUS RIVALS FAMOUS OLD TOWN OF EAGLE M. M. COWLEy's
RECOLLECTIONS MUSHROOM PLACER CAMPS DISCOVERY OF BUNKER HILL — THAT
FAMOUS DONKEY "dUTCH JAKe's" STORY SALE OF THE GREAT MINE OTHER
FAMOUS GALENA STRIKES ROMANCE OP THE HERCULES CHARLES SWEENy's
OPERATIONS MARVELOUS RECORD OF PRODUCTION AND DIVIDENDS STRANGE STORY
OF "dream" DAVIS '^81
CHAPTKK XL
HOW ( IIKNKV CAI'I'L lil.I) THF, COLNTY SEAT
HV E. K. PEliRY 395
CHAPTER XLI
RECOM.IU 'I'lONS Ol" IHANK I )AI,I.A.\1 . .1. 1). SHERWOOD AND
(1. I?. DENNIS
liltAVK DAYS OF NKAIU.V ■1■|IIHT^ ^i:\l(S \(i() DALLAM STARTS THE RF.VIEW PRINTS
FIRST NUMHKli AT CHENKV IlKMiV Vn.I.ARDS VISIT PAUL SnilLZK RECOMMENDS
I'AIXT — HANK VAUGHN, THE DESPERADO, (IIMIOS To TOWN SCRUIl RACES IN
HHOWNe's ADDITION APPEARANCE OK TOWN IN IXS.'i FIGIlTIN(i FIRE WITH A
mcKKT LINK PlCTUHESyUp; STREET LIFE SQIAW FKilllS PrlU.U SPIHIT HKKORE
THE FIRE MR, DENNIS AND HIS lIKill HAT RECOLLECTIONS OF "BLIND
liEORGE"
.399
CHAPTER XLII
RAPID GROWTH OI IHE YOUNCi CITY, 1886 TO 1889
8LEIGII BIDES AND DANCES NEW ARLINGTON HOTEL OPENED EMMA ABBOTt's COJI-
PANY IN "BOHEMIAN GIRl" SALE OF OLD DOMINION MINE CONTEST FOR THE
COURTHOUSE STEAMER SPOKANE WRECKED FAIR ASSOCIATION ORGANIZED
RAPID BUILDING OF RAILROADS SALE OF BUNKER HILL AND SULLIVAN REAL
ESTATE BOOM VARIETY THEATER OPENS SPOKANe's FIRST SOCIAL CLUB BACHE-
LOR'S BALL HOW THE CITY (iHKW ■1'09
CONTENTS xvii
CHAPTER XLIII
THE GREAT FIRE OF AUGUST 4, 1889
BLAZE STARTS NEAR OLD N. P. PASSENGER STATION SEEMS A TRIFLING AFFAIR WATER
SUPPLY FAILS AND FLAMES SPREAD PEOPLE BECOME PANIC STRICKEN BUILDINGS
BLOWN UP WITH GIANT POWDER MIGHTY SEA OF FLAME ROLLS TOWARDS THE
RIVER TERRIFIED AND MOTLEY CROWD FLEES TO NORTH SIDE THIRTY-TWO BLOCKS
DESTROYED CITY UNDER MARTIAL LAW— COURAGE QUICKLY DISPELS DESPAIR RE-
LIEF ROLLS IN DONATIONS FAR EXCEED NEEDS OF DESTITUTE ORGY OF GREED
FOLLOWS COUNCILMEN INDICTED FOR MISAPPROPRIATING SUPPLIES OPEN CHARGES
OF BRIBERY IN "hAM COUNCIL" STEVE BAILEY ASSAULTS COUNCILMAN
BETTIS 41^5
CHAPTER XLIV
EVENTS OF 1889 REVIEWED
WASHINGTON ADMITTED TO THE UNION SPOKANe's FIRST LEGISLATIVE DELEGATION
CITIZENS GIVE LAVISHLY TO PUBLIC ENTERPRISES A BEAUTIFUL AND IRRIDESCENT
DREAM OUR BEGINNINGS IN ART TSE TOWN's BANKERS ITS SOCIAL "atMOS-
PHERe" DESCRIBED BY "lADV ALBION" RECEIVING DAYS ON THE HILL AND IN
Browne's addition— report of the board of trade — era of railroad build-
ing TEN THOUSAND MEN IN SURROUNDING MINING CAMPS ORCHARDS STARTED
ON "THE gravel" RAPID EXTENSION OF STREET RAILWAYS FIFTEEN PLACES OF
WORSHIP HARRY. HAYWARd's THEATRICAL ATTRACTIONS 421
CHAPTER XLV
SPOKANE IN TENTS AND ON RUNNERS
SEVERE WINTER OF 1 889-90— RAILROADS BLOCKED AND TRAINS SNOWED IN— SPOKANE
AT A LOW EBB MORALLY "duTCH JAKe's" FAMOUS GAMBLING TENT KILLING OF
BIG mac" LAW AND ORDER LEAGUE ORGANIZED GAMBLING HOUSES CLOSED, BUT
REOPEN MONROE STREET BRIDGE TROUBLES TIDE LAND FIGHT SPOKANE CLUB
FOUNDED CITY LIMITS EXTENDED SPOKANe's FIRST PROFESSIONAL BALL TEAM
CLOUGH ELECTED MAYOR THE "SHANTYTOWN WAr" CITIZENS DEFEND THEIR
LOTS WITH RIFLE AND REVOLVER FIRST MINING EXCHANGE ORIGIN OF HOME
FOR THE FRIENDLESS CARPENTERS STRIKE AND CITIZENS RALLY TO COMPLETE
EXPOSITION BUILDING WILSON DEFEATS TURNER AUDITORIUM THEATER
OPENED 4.29
xviii CONTENTS
CllAl'TKll XJA 1
NEW YEAR'S, 1891, SEES A NEW SPOKANE
INDIAN WAR THHEATENKl) IN OKAXOUAN COI.-NTUV IIHIUKHV SENSATION AT OI.YM-
PIA CITY ELECTION MAYOH, COL'NCII, AND COMMISSIONERS CLASH BOARD OF
TRADE BECOMES CHAMBER OF COMMERCE SALE OF MORNING MINE STRANGE
CASE OF HERMAN L. CHASE BEGINNING OF ROSSLAND CAMP DISCOVERY OF KASLO
AND SLOGAN MINES JAMES J. HILI.'s FIRST VISIT NEW HIGH SCHOOL OPENED
Spokane's first dehuv — review celebrates in its new building — spirited
■tST
SCHOOL ELECTION '
CIIAPTKR XLVII
COEUll DALENE RIOTS OF 189-2
TROUBLE PRECIPITATED BY ARRIVAL OF STRIKE-BREAKERS IDAHo's GOVERNOR ISSUES
WARNING PROCLAMATION DEADLY BATTLE ON CANYON CREEK, JULY 11 STRIKERS
HOIST THE WHITE FLAG BLOWING UP OF FRISCO MILL MILITANT UNION FORCES
MARCH ON WARDNER CAPTURE TOWN AND I ONCENTRATORS SWEENY, CLEMENT
AND MCAULEY COMPELLED TO SIGN AGREEMENT TO DISCHARGE NON-UNION FORCES
LARGE NUMBERS OF NON-UNION MEN RUN OUT OF THE COUNTRY KEIGN OF TERROR
AT THE OLD MISSION MARTIAL LAW DECLARED FORERUNNER OF POPULISM STATE
AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE OPENS AT PULLMAN DEATH OF CHIEF GARRY D. M. DRUM-
HELLER DEFEATS JAY P. GRAVES FOR MAYOR KIHST TnUor(iIl TRAIN OVER GREAT
NORTHERN PISTOL BATTLE IN PACIFIC HOTEL '■ '■^
CHAPTER XLVIIT
YEAR OF TURMOIL, GLOOM AND DISASTER
MR. cannon's AFFAIRS BECOME IN VOLVED— HIS BANK FAILS— OTHER BANKS CLOSE THEIR
DOORS MENACING DEMONSTRATIONS BY UN KM I'l.OVED THREATS OF VIOLENCE
LAW AND ORDER LEAGUE FORMED ASSISTANT POSTMASTER COMMITS SUICIDE ALLEN
AND TURNER SENATORIAL CONTEST— LEGISLATURE ADJOURNS WITHOUT ELECTING
BEGINNING OF BEET SUGAR INDUSTRY— RETRENCHMENT AT ( ITV HALL WHEEL
club's first run DESERTION AND DEATH OF COLGATE, GUIDE OF CARLIN PARTY
MAYOH POWELL STARTS HOME INDUSTRY SENTIMENT US*
CllAI'TKU XI. IX
YEAR Ol- fOXEV ARMY AND GREAT A. R. U. STRIKE
COXEVITES ASTIR IN SPOKANE COUNTRY— NIGHT TIME ORATORY AT THE HAYMARKET--
HEADQUARTERS IN OLD M. E. CHURCH— "cOLONEL" DOLPHIN IN DISGRACE— GREAT
CONTENTS xix
STRIKE PARALYZES TRAFFIC ON RAILROADS— RIOT AT NORTHERN PACIFIC STATION-
DEPUTIES FIRE OVER CROWD— FIVE HUNDRED CITIZENS SWORN IN TO PRESERVE OR-
DER—DISORDERS AT SPRAGUE— RISE OF THE "sHOTGUN LEAGUE"— POPULISTS ELECT
MAYOR— STORMV REPUBLICAN STATE CONVENTION SPOKANe's FIRST FRUIT FAIR
FIRST CARLOAD OF APPLES SHIPPED TWO MORE BANK FAILURES— CITY IN DARK-
NESS LOW COST OF LIVING AMATEURS SING LIGHT OPERA 457
CHAPTER L
HOW SPOKANE WON THE ARMY POST
BY E. E. PERRY . gc
CHAPTER LI
REVIEW OF HISTORICAL EVENTS OF 1895
JOHN L. WILSON ELECTED UNITED STATES SENATOR— SCHISM IN FIRST M. E. CHURCH-
FUTILE ATTEMPT TO IMPEACH JUDGE ARTHUR— LOCAL TALENT PRODUCES HOME-
MADE OPERA— WAR ON BOX-RUSTLING— DEATH OF A. M. CANNON— BELT REELECTED
MAYOR— SIMON OPPENHEIMER CUTS A WIDE SWATH— THEODORE CUSHING KILLS
THOMAS KING— SUCCESSFUL SOCIETY CIRCUS— COLONEL WINSTON MEETS A HIGH-
WAYMAN—COUNCIL THREATENS MAYOR WITH IMPEACHMENT— FRUIT FAIR A BRIL-
LIANT SUCCESS— DEATH OF F. ROCKWOOD MOORE— BETTER TIMES FOR SPOKANE. .471
CHAPTER LII
SPOKANE REVIVED BY MINERAL WEALTH
COEUR d'aLENES, ROSSLAND AND SLOCAN ROLL IN RICH DIVIDENDS— MAKING OF THE
GREAT LE ROI— "wiLDCATTERS" FLOURISH— REPUBLIC CAMP .ATTRACTS ATTENTION-
POLITICAL UPHEAVAL OF 1 896— INFLUENTIAL REPUBLICANS BOLT— FUSION OF
DEMOCRATS, POPULISTS AND SILVER REPUBLICANS— SPECTACULAR CAMPAIGN-
FUSION FORCES SWEEP STATE AND COUNTY CAUSES OF THE UPHEAVAL MAKING
WAR ON GROUND SQUIRRELS— GOOD WORK FOR FORT WRIGHT BY CONGRESSMAN
HYDE L. H. PLATTOR KILLED BY IlEXRY SEIFFERT— FRUIT FAIR ENLARGED. . . .477
CHAPTER LIII
REVIEW OF HISTORICAL EVENTS OF 1897
GEORGE TURNER ELECTED TO THE SENATE— DR. OLMSTED DEFEATS DR. MAC LEAN FOR
MAYOR— H. L. WILSON MINISTER TO CHILE— SALE OF WAR EAGLE MINE— DEVELOP-
MENT OP REPUBLIC— GRANBy's BEGINXIXGS— MRS. ARCHER's PRIZE POEM— DEATH
CONTENTS
OF "death on the trail" LORD SHOLTO UOIOLAS ARUIVES TRIBULATIONS OK
VERY REV. DR. DBAN RICH.MOND BABBITT TOWN WIDE OPEN AGAIN ROSE CAHNI-
VAI. A.sr) l'\ll\I>K. prosperity's BANNERS WELL ADVANCED 4B I
CHAPTER LIV
SALE OF l.h. KOI MINK TO BRITISH COMPANY
WHITTAKER WRIGHT, LONDON PROMOTER, OVERREACHES HIMSELF PEYTON INTERESTS
SELL CONTROL TURNER INTERESTS OBJECT CONTESTS CARRIED TO THE COURTS
JAY P. GRAVES MAKES A FORTUNE TRAGEDY OF THE GREAT EASTERN FIRE DEATH
OF FRANK GANAHL, FAMOUS PIONEER LAWYER W. L. JONES AND F. C. CUSHMAN
ELECTED TO CONGRESS FIFTH ANNUAL FRUIT FAIR NORTHERN PACIFIC SELLS
LOW PRICED LANDS '
CHAPTER T>V
INLAND EMPIRE SOLDIERS IN THE PHILIPPINES
SEVEN-TWELFTHS OF WASHINGTON'S REGIMENT COME FROM THE EAST SIDE SPOKANe's
GREETING TO THE SI.XTEENTH INFANTRY REGULARS DEPART FOR CUBA AND VOLUN-
TEERS FOB MANILA COMPANIES A AND L ON THE FIRING LINE GENERAL KING
PRAISES THE SOLDIER BOYS FROM WASHINGTON AND IDAHO SEVERE LOSSES IN ACTION
DEATHS FROM WOUNDS AND DISEASE SPOKANE RED CROSS SOCIETY CHARTERS A
TRAIN AND BRINGS OUR BOYS HOME IN COMFORT AND STATE CHEERING THOUSANDS
WELCOME THE YOUNG VETERANS MEMBERS OF THE SPOKANE COMPANIES i91
CHAPTER LVI
TWO T'ROGRESSIVF, YEARS, 1899 AND 1900 RFA'IEWED
D. C. CORBIN ESTABLISHES BEET SUGAR INDUSTRY FOSTER ELECTED SENATOR REPUBLIC
TO THE FRONT— SALE OF REPUBLIC MINE CLARK AND SWEENY IN THE COEUR
d'aLENES— HEROIC DEATH OF ENSIGN MONAGHAN SPOKANE INDUSTRIAL E.XPOSI-
TioN — ELKS HOLD IMPOSING CARNIVAL— GREAT WAVE OF IMMIGRATION— GOVERNOR
ROGERS REELECTED— REPUBLICANS CARRY REST OF TICKET- WILLIAM JENNINGS
HHVAN IIEHE "llOT AIr" RAILROAD BUILT TO REPUBLIC '1'99
CONTENTS xxi
CHAPTER LVII
SECOND FIERCE LABOR WAR IX THE COEUR D'ALENES
ONE THOUSAND UNION MINERS SEIZE A TRAIN MOVE ON WARDNER WITH RIFLES AND
DYNAMITE BLOW UP BUNKER HILL MILL ONE UNION MAN KILLED GOVERNOR
STEUNENBERG CALLS FOR UNITED STATES TROOPS MARTIAL LAW ESTABLISHED
UNIONS PUT UNDER BAN AND PERMIT SYSTEM ESTABLISHED MANY RIOTERS *-LEE
TO THE HILLS HOST OF OTHERS ARRESTED AND IMPRISONED IN "bULLPEN" CON-
GRESS CONDUCTS AN INVESTIGATION ED. BOYCE TELLS GOMPERS WESTERN FEDERA-
TION IS NOT A TRADES UNION 503
CHAPTER LVIII
IMMIGRATION ROLLS INTO THE INLAND EMPIRE
THIRTY THOUSAND NEWCOMERS ENTER THE SPOKANE GATEWAY COUNTRY COOPER-
ATES WITH THE CITY OIL BORING CRAZE STRIKES THE PUBLIC THE KINDERGAR-
TEN CONTEST SENSATIONAL PHASES OF RAILROAD PASS EVIL DR. P. S. BYRNE
ELECTED MAYOR INTERSTATE FAIR ORGANIZED RELIGIOUS SERVICES IN "dUTCH
JAKe's" PLACE hill's NORTHERN SECURITIES MERGER DEATH OF GOVERNOR
ROGERS 507
CHAPTER LIX
THRILLING HUNT FOR TRACY THE OUTLAW
TRACY AND MERRILL KILL THREE GUARDS AT OREGON PENITENTIARY ESCAPE INTO
WASHINGTON TERRORIZE CITIES AND TOWNS AROUND PUGET SOUND TRACY KILLS
MERRILL OUTLAW APPEARS IN OUTSKIRTS OF SEATTLE KILLS SEVERAL MEN
ESCAPES INTO THE CASCADES CROSSES THE COLUMBIA MAN HUNT TRANSFERRED
TO THE BIG BEND DESPERADO WOUNDED AT EDDY RANCH, COMMITS SUICIDE^
NOTABLE GATHERING OF RAILROAD PRESIDENTS AT DAVENPORT AND COLFAX
VOLUNTARY CUT IN GRAIN RATES WAR ON RAILROAD LOBBY FIGHT FOR RAIL-
ROAD COMMISSION LAST SPIKE E.XCURSION TO REPUBLIC BLACKWELL BUILDS
COEUR d'aLENE electric LINE N. P. SELLS TIMBER LANDS LORD SHOLTO DOUG-
LAS' FREE BOOZE SATURNALIA 511
CHAPTER I.X
LAST CLOUD FADES FROM THE FINANCIAL SKIES
1903 A YEAR OP STIRRING POLITICAL INTEREST TITANIC STRUGGLE BETWEEN GOV.
MC BRIDE AND THE RAILROADS LEVI ANKENY ELECTED U. S. SENATOR DEATH OF
i CONTKNTS
JOHN b. ALLEN SPOKANK ENTERTAINS I'UKSIDKN T llOOSEVELT DEATH (11 11. HOL-
STER AND S. S. GLIDDEN GRANBY PAYS ITS FIRST DIVIDEND FABULOUS PROFITS FROM
■MINES 517
CHAPTER LXl
RENEWED ACTIVITY IN UAII.ROAn BIIT.DIXG
D. C. CORUIN ANNOUNCES PURPOSE TO lUlLU (. P. H. CONNECTION GRAVES AND
BLACKWELL FINANCE ELECTRIC LINE INTO PALOUSE COUNTRY ROSSLANd's Ol'TPUT
PASSES THE .$2r),000,000 mark — princely profits of THE coeur u'alenes
MC BRIDE DOWNED IN HKPrllLRAN STATE CONVENTION MEAD DEFEATS TURNER
FOR GOVERNOR SWEENY DEVELOPS SENATORIAL ASPIRATIONS DEATH OF COL.
P. H. WINSTON, B. C. VAN IIOUTEN AND REV. S. G. HAVERMALE DROWNING OF MISS
LOUISE IIAKKIS a2\
CHAPTER EXII
CHARLES SWEENY'S 15R1EF TILT AT POLITICS
No .MATCH FOR OLYMPIA POLITICIANS HE RETALIATES BY ELECTING PILES INLAND
EMPIRE PROFITS DAGGETT DEFEATS ACUFF FOR MAYOR LARGE PROJECTS OF W.
W. POWER CO. ACTIVE YEAR IN RAILROAD BUILDING JUDGE WHITSON OPENS V. S.
COURT IN SPOKANE DEATH or II. WFII., ",UM" WAHDNER AND COL. W. W. D.
TURNER— INDIANS SIGN TREATS Ullll IIIIMII .MAUKS ;)'27
CHAPTER LXHI
"SI'OK.VNK IS .\1,.M()ST A MODEL CITY'
TRIBl'TE OF PRAISE BY COLORADo's GOVERNOR I.\ 1906 GROWTH OF CHAMBER OP
COMMERCE PRESIDE.NT EAHLING HERE ELECTRIC LINE E.\TENDED TO IIAVDEN
LAKE J. F. SLOANE SLAIN IIV HIS SON SIDNEY RENO HUTCHINSON, Y. M. C. A.
SECRETARY, .MUItDERED ASSASSINATION OP GOV. STEUNENBERG FUTILE ATTEMPT
TO I.MPEACH MAYOR DAGGETT DEATH OF E.\-GOVERNOR GEORGE E. COLE FOUND-
IN(; OF WESTERN UNION LlIK INSURANCE COMPANY FORMER MILLIONAIRE DIES
AT POOR FARM ;j.'i 1
( HAPTK1{ 1>XIV
YEAR OE PANIC AND CLllARING HOUSE CERTIFICATES
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE CHAMPIO.NS STATE COLLEGE C. II. MOORE ELECTED .MAYOR
PANIC BREAKS IN NEW YORK- LOCAL BANKS ISSUE CI.EARl.NIi HOUSE CERTIFICATES
CONTENTS xxiii
FLURRY SOON SUBSIDES F. A. BLACKWELL BUILDS IDAHO & WASHINGTON NORTH-
ERN FINE TOWN OF SPIRIT LAKE SPRINGS UP IN THE WILDERNESS DEATH OF D. F.
PERCIVAL AND THOMAS GEORGE THOMSON "rEV." LESLIE DAY COMMITS SUICIDE
WILD DEMONSTRATION AROUND POLICE STATION 535
CHAPTER LXV
ROOT-GORDON SCANDAL AROUSES THE PUBLIC
SINISTER RUMORS DEVELOP INTO OPEN CHARGES CHIEF JUSTICE HADLEY CALLS FOR
BAR ASSOCIATION INQUIRY JUDGE ROOT RESIGNS GRAND JURY CALLED APPEAR-
ANCE OF JAMES J. HILL PROSECUTOR PUGH CHARGES HIM WITH BAD FAITH ■
GREAT NORTHERN REFUSES TO AID PROSECUTION GORDON ACQUITTED PASSING OF
SUNDAY SALOON AND BOX-RUSTLING SPOKANE EQUAL SUFFRAGE ASSOCIATION OR-
GANIZED MILES POINDEXTER GOES TO CONGRESS COSGROVE ELECTED GOVERNOR
JONES DEFEATS ANKENY FOR THE SENATE NORTHERN PACIFIc's SCHEME OF GRADE
SEPARATION DEFEATED 150,000 CLUB FOSTERS CHILDREN'S HOME 539
CHAPTER LXVI
BILLY SUNDAY'S REVIVAL AND THE UNExMPLOYED
GREATEST RELIGIOUS MEETING IN CITY's HISTORY TEMPERANCE WORKERS MARCH ON
OLYMPIA CARING FOR ARMY OF IDLE MEN PRATT DEFEATS OMO FOR MAYOR
SPOKESMAN-REVIEW CELEBRATES TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY EXTRAORDINARY
RUSH FOR INDIAN LANDS FRIGHTFUL WRECK ON COEUR d'aLENE ELECTRIC LINE
PAN TAN DISCLOSURES NATIONAL IRRIGATION CONGRESS PRESIDENT TAFT VISITS
INLAND EMPIRE CITy's CLASH WITH THE I. W. W. YEAR OF FINE GROWTH
GREAT NORTHERN ABSORBS THE GRAVES SYSTEM DEATH OF J. HERMAN BEARE
JUDGE NORMAN BUCK, E. H. JAMIESON AND C. S. VOORHEES Jig
CHAPTER LXVII
SPIRITED CONTEST OVER RAILROAD FRANCHISES
COUNCIL DEMANDS TERMINAL RATES AND A COMMON USER CLAUSE CITIZENS DIVIDE
AND A SPIRITED CONTEST FOLLOWS COUNCIL YIELDS AND RAILROADS WIN DIS-
ASTROUS AVALANCHES IN COEUR d'aLENES AVALANCHE DEMOLISHES GREAT NORTH-
ERN TRAIN— MORE THAN 100 LIVES LOST— ALLEN HAYNES SINKS $500,000 IN IN-
LAND HERALD DEATH OF PROF. FRANZ MUELLER TWO HUNDRED LIVES LOST IN
FOREST FIRES— POINDEXTER ELECTED TO SENATE SPOKANE ENTERTAINS DRY FARM-
ING CONGRESS LARGE PROJECTS OF WASHINGTON WATER POWER CO 519
xxiv rONTKNTS
CHAPTER LXVJU
(.U.\l.\llS>i().\ 1 ()l(.\i Ol (.()\ l-.KNMl'.NT ADOPTED
PEOPI.K GROW WKARY OF rVTII-E ATTKMPTS TO PATCH UP THE OLD CHARTER STUDY
THE COMMISSION PLAN MAYOR PRATT NAMES A COMMITTEE TO FRAME NEW CHAR-
TER CITIZENS DEMAND AN ELECTION COUNCIL TRIES DILATORY' TACTICS, BUT
YIELDS UNDER PRESSURE FIFTEEN FREEHOLDERS CHOSEN CITIZENS VOTE FOR
ITS PLAN OF COMMISSION GOVERNMENT THE OPPOSITION TICKET NEW CHARTER
IS ADOPTED FIVE COMMISSIONERS ELECTED FROM A FIELD OF NINETY-THREE
CANDIDATES NEW GOVERNMENT INSTALLED 555
CHAPTER LXIX
WHICH BRINGS THIS HISTORY UP TO DATE
FORMER POLICE CHIEF JOHN T. SULLIVAN ASSASSINATED CITY ENTERTAINS ROOSEVELT
AND TAFT $77,431 SUBSCRIBED FOR GREATER SPOKANE PLANS AND PROJECTS — •
SUBSTANTIAL INCREASE OF POPULATION MANUFACTURE OF PAPER STARTS ON LARGE
SCALE NEW MONROE STREET BRIDGE OPENED SPOKANE CLUB OCCUPIES ITS NEW
HOME REMARKABLE GROWTH OF INLAND CLUB "dOc" BROWN ENDS HIS LIFE
(ilPSY SMITH CONDUCTS LARGE IIEVIVAI 559
CHAPTER LXX
PIONEER CHURCHES OF SPOKANE
CONGREGATIONALISTS AND METHODISTS EARLY IN THE FIELD FIRST SERMON TO A WHITE
CONGREGATION PREA< HED BY REV. S. G. HAVERMALE FIRST ORGAN FROM WILLA-
METTE VALLEY FIRST M. E. CHURCH PIONEER BAPTIST LABORS MISSION WORK
BY THE EPISCOPALIANS REV. T. G. WATSON ORGANIZES FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH
. CENTRAL CHRISTIAN CHURCH UNIVERSALISTS AND UNITARIANS EARLY DAY
EASTER SEHVICES CHRISTIAN HOME IX (OI.VII.I.E VAI.I.EV IN 1 8,VI- .id.:
CIIAPTKR LXXI
CATHOLIC INSTITUTIONS OF SPOKANE
FIRST PLACE OF WORSHIP A SHACK, 1 5x22— FIRST CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF LOURDES—
FOUNDING OF THE CHURCH OF ST. JOSEPH— BEGINNING OF ST. ALOYSIUS— BIRTH
AND GROWTH OF GONZAGA COLLEGE— ITS PROGRESS FROM FATHER REBMANN TO
FATHER TAELMAN— FOUNDING OF SACRED HEART HOSPITAL IN 1 886— EDUCATIONAL
INSTITUTIONS OF THE SISTERS OF THE HOLY NAMES— ST. JOSEPh's ORPHANAGE-
OTHER INSTITUTIONS "
CONTENTS XXV
CHAPTER LXXII
SPOKANE'S JEWISH COMMUNITY
EARLY DAY HISTORY REVIEWED BY RABBI LEVINE SIMON BERG ESTABLISHES A STORE
IN 1879 OTHERS WHO FOLLOWED SOON AFTER FIRST JEWESSES BY THE FALLS
FIRST BIRTH AND FIRST DEATH FIRST DIVINE SERVICE— RABBIS WHO HAVE SERVED
HERE VARIOUS JEWISH ORGANIZATIONS 579
CHAPTER LXXIII
EARLY DAY HISTORY OF THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS
FIRST SCHOOL HOUSE AT CHEWELAH IN 1869 HOW THE PIONEER SCHOOL WAS BUILT
IN SPOKANE JAMES MONAGHAN COUNTY SUPERINTENDENT IN 1875 ONLY
ELEVEN CHILDREN OF SCHOOL AGE IN SPOKANE DISTRICT J. J. BROWNE FIRST SU-
PERINTENDENT OF NEW COUNTY OF SPOKANE FIRST TEACHERs' INSTITUTE RECOL-
LECTIONS OF A PIONEER TEACHER BENJAMIN P. CHENEY ACADEMY, AND STATE
NORMAL AT CIIEXEY GROWTH BY YEARS 583
CHAPTER LXXIV
ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF POLICE FORCE
E. B. HYDE TOWN MARSHAL, WILLIAM KOHLHAUFP NIGHT WATCHMAN JOE WARREN
JOINS THE FORCE IN 1884 LOCKUP ON SITE OF AUDITORIUM WARREN CAPTURES
BILL JACKSON, A "wiCKED CUSs" INDIANS MURDER GEORGE RUSK ON DEADMAN
CREEK WARREN KILLS A BAD INDIAN IN PEACEFUL VALLEY WHEN "wiLD BILl"
CRIED INDIAN LYNCHED BY CITIZENS AT CHENEY 591
CHAPTER LXXV
SPOKANE'S LONG FIGHT FOR JUST FREIGHT RATES
RATES ADVANCED 100 PER CENT IN 1887 A SHARP PROTEST FIRST SUIT BY BOARD OP
TRADE IN 1889 SHIPPERS DIVIDED IN 1890 INTERSTATE COMMERCE COMMISSION
HERE IN 1891 ADVENT OP JAMES J. HILL GIVEN FREE RIGHT OF WAY INDIGNA-
TION OVER BROKEN PROMISES COMMISSION ORDERS REDUCTION IN CLASS RATES
RAILROADS IGNORE THE ORDER COURTS HOLD COMMISSION CAN NOT MAKE RATES
MYSTERIOUS DISAPPEARANCE OF HILl's TARIFF SHEETS A. W. DOLAND AND OTHER
SHIPPERS GO BEFORE JUDGE HANFORD LORENZO SAWYER KNOCKS THEM OUT — -IN-
DIGNANT SHIPPERS ORGANIZE BOYCOTT RAILROADS GRANT CONCESSIONS HEPBURN
LAW PASSED SPOKANE RENEWS FIGHT BEFORE COMMISSION TENTATIVE DECISION
IN 1909 FULLER DECISION IN 1910 COMPLETE DECISION IN 1911 HOW SPO-
KANE CELEBRATED 595
xxvi rOVTFVTS
CHAPTER LXXVl
ORIGIN AND GROW Til Oi NATJONAL Al'l'LE SHOW
BIRTH AND DK VKI.OPMKNT OF AN IDEA FIHST SHOW IN 1908 DELIGHTKI) THOUSANDS
VIEW THE BEAITIFI'L EXHIBITS PRESIDENT TAFT PRESSES A GOLDEN KEY- SPLEN-
DID ENTERPRISE IN PERIL — SAVED BY ENTHUIASTIC WORK GREAT FUND OF
$60,000 RAISED IN 1911 BRILLIANT CARNIVAL FEATURES TWENTY-SEVEN VISIT-
ING BANDS NATIONAL COUNTRY LIFE CONGRESS THIRTY-THREE PRINCESSES
HOVALLV KNTKHTAINED 605
CIIAPTKR LXXVII
genesis, growth and achievements of the 150,000 club extraordinary fund-
raising campaign forthe y. m. c. a. and the children's home first pianos
in spokane v. h. brown called here in 1883 to tune ten instruments
Spokane's first music store and first music teacher — history of the spokes-
man-review how the rival morning journals were consolidated WOMAN
SrFFRA(iK IN TKHIilTOlllAL DAYS WOMEN SERVE ON JIHIES 609
CHAPTER LXXVII I
D. C. CORBIXS CARI l.li IN SI'OKANI. (Ol N TltV
VISITS THE COEUK d'aLENES IN 1886 — meets JIM WAUDNEU, I'lHL o'llol ItKE AND llAUKV
BAER ALARMING MIXTURE OF ORE SAMPLES AND DYNAMITE BUILDS A RAILROAD
AND SELLS IT TO THE NORTHERN PACIFIC COMES TO SPOKANE AND BUILDS THE
SPOKANE FALLS ft NOHTHEKN TRYING TIMES AFTER PANIC OF 189,'! LOYALTY OF
HIS EMPLOYES BUILDS THE SPOKANE 1 NTKH \ All" N \ 1, KSTA lU.ISII KS THE SUGAR
BEET INDl STHV 615
cnAPTKH I, XXIX
CITY OFFICIALS OF SPOKANE, FROM 1881 TO DATE. COMPILED IIV ( ITV lI.EIIK C. A.
FLEMING (519
CHAPTER EXXX
BRIEF HISTORY OF THF, HKi REND COUNTRY
FUR TRADERS RANGE OVER THIS BROAD REGION ARRIVAL OF THE FIRST STOCKMEN
TRAGIC END OF "wiLD GOOSE BILl" ARRIVAL OF THE SOLDIERS FIRST SETTLER AT
DAVENPORT CRICKET SCOURGE OK 1882-83 CREATION OF LINCOLN AND DOUGLAS
CONTENTS xxvii
COUNTIES HOT AND FURIOUS COUNTY SEAT CONTEST DAVENPORT ARMS TO HOLD
THE RECORDS INVADING "aRMy" FROM SPRAGUE TAKES THEM WITHOUT BLOOD-
SHED A COUNTY WITHOUT A TOWN COMING OF THE RAILROADS WHITMAN
COUNTY REDUCED TO MAKE ADAMS AND FRANKLIN COUNTIES FIRST HOUSE IN
RITZVILLE HISTORIC OLD AINSWORTH PASCo's EXPENSIVE BANQUET ADVENT
OF THE fiREAT NORTHERN 621
CHAPTER LXXXI
THE PALOUSE COUNTRY— ITS SETTLEMENT AND DEVELOPMENT
ORIGIN AND SIGNIFICANCE OF THE NAME GRAZING REGION FOR INDIAN HERDS FIRST
EXTENSIVE SETTLEMENT IN 1869 SITE OF COLFAX LOCATED IN 1870 COUNTY
CREATED IN 1872 FIRST STORE AND SCHOOLHOUSE EARLY DAY GRAIN SHIPMENTS
PIONEERS ALARMED BY NEZ PERCE WAR SETTLERS SEEK REFUGE IN BLOCKHOUSE
AT PALOUSE FIRST NEWSPAPER AND TELEPHONE LINES STAGE LINES AND STEAM-
BOATS THE FIRST RAILROAD MRS. CHASE's REMINISCENCES STATE COLLEGE LO-
CATED AT PULLMAN IT.S START AND DEVELOPMENT 6!29
CHAPTER LXXXII
PIONEER WHEAT-GROWING AND FLOUR MILLING
FIRST MILL BUILT AT FALLS ON COLVILLE RIVER, NINETY YEARS AGO MISSIONARIES
AND INDIANS WENT THERE WITH THEIR GRIST FIRST PATENT FLOUR AND FARINA
IN THE U. S. HISTORIC OLD MILLSTONES PRESERVED FIRST AMERICAN MILL BUILT
BY "judge" YANTIS OLD-TIME MILLER WORKS ON A FLYING MACHINE INVENTS
A MACHINE CALLED "hELL ON THE GRAB" TRIP THROUGH COLVILLE VALLEY IN
1 882 635
CHAPTER LXXXIII
RAILWAY CONSTRUCTION IN THE INLAND EMPIRE
PACIFIC RAILROAD FIRST ADVOCATED PUBLICLY IN 183'i FORECAST OF TEN MILES AN
HOUR, AND ROUND TRIP IN THIRTY DAYS PORTAGE ROAD AT CASCADES FIRST LINE
IN WASHINGTON NORTHERN PACIFIC STARTS CONSTRUCTION IN 1870 DR. BAKEr's
FAMOUS ROAD FROM WALLA WALLA TO THE COLUMBIA LATTER-DAY CONSTRUC-
TION OF MAIN AND BRANCH LINES 639
xxviii (ON TK NTS
CHAPTER LXXXIV
NATIVE RACES IN THE INLAND EMPIRE
ORIGIN AND MEANING OF "sPOKANe" INDIAN LANGUAGES LEGENDS OF THE SPOKANE
RIVER HOW CHIEF GARRY WAS NAMED INDIAN ROCK PICTURES GAMBLING AND
GHOST DANCING^ — GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION BY FATHER DIOMEDI STRANGE LEGEND OF
THE COEUR d'aLENES CRUDE RELIGIOUS BELIEFS HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE
NEZ PERCES A RICH AND BEAUTIFUL LANGUAGE ELOQUENT SPEECH BY AN INDIAN
ORATOR 643
CIIArTKH LXXXV
ORIGIN OF CERTAIN INDIAN NAMES JOAyllN MILLERS UO.MAXTIt EXPLANATION OF
THE MEANING OP IDAHO LAKE PEND d'oREILLE ONCE KNOWN AS KALISPELM,
AND PRIEST LAKE AS ROOTHAN AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A NOTED PIONEER WHO SERVED
WITH GOVERNOR STEVENS DEDICATION OF MONUMENT AT CAMP WASHINGTON,
NEAR SPOKANE KETTLE FALLS INDIANS SUFFER FROM FAMINE AND EAT PINE MOSS
now PRIEST RAPIDS WERE NAMED 657
Spokane and the Inland Empire
CHAPTER I
ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF HISTORY
riRST MENTION OF THE SPOKANES BY LEWIS AND CLARK EARLY DAY SPANISH INFLU-
ENCES JEFFERSON TO JOHN JACOB ASTOR ADVENT OF THE Fl'R TRADERS, 1811"
15 A NIGHT OF TERROR MASSACRE OF THE CREW OF THE TONQUIN A FRIGHTFUL
REVENGE.
Clime of the West! That to the hunter's bow,
And roving herds of savage men wert sold ; —
Their cone-roofed wigwams pierced the wintry snow, —
Their tasselled corn crept sparsely through the mold.
Their bark canoes thy glorious waters clave,
The chase their glory, and the wild their grave.
Look up ! A loftier destiny behold !
For to thy coast the fair-haired Saxon steers.
Rich with tiie spoils of Time, the lore of bards and seers.
— Lifdia H. Sigourney.
THE known and recorded history of the Spokane country runs back a hundred
and five years, and witiiin that century we shall find enough of romance and
adventure, of death and daring, of wild barbaric color and civilization's
glory, to make a narrative that should be worth the telling.
First mention of the Spokane Indians, the river, lake and falls, though under
other names, is found in the journals of the Lewis and Clark expedition, begun in
1801 and completed in 1806. These explorers, bold and indomitable, had ascended
the Missouri, wintered on the Dakota plains among the Mandan Indians in the
winter of 1801-,'). continued their journey to the headwaters of that stream the fol-
lowing spring, crossed over the Rocky mountains, and found their way, down the
headwaters of the Clearwater river (by tiiem called the Kooskooskee) to the Snake,
which they termed the Lewis, and thence to and down the Columbia to the ocean.
Passing there the winter of 1805-6, they started on their return the following
spring, and when encamped near the present city of Lewiston, recorded this entrj-
in their journal:
2 SPOKANK A\n Till', IVI.AM) KMI'IHK
"At this place we nitt with llircc men of a nation called the Skeet-ko-niish, who
reside at the forks of a large river discharging itself into the Columbia on its east
side to the north of the entrance of Clark's river. This river, they informed us,
headed in a large l.-tke in the ijioiintains. and that the f.ilK. below wiiiell they re-
sided, was at no great distance from the lake.
"These people arc the same in their dress and ap]iearance with the Chopunnish
(the Nez Perces) though tin ir language is entirely diH'erent. The river here called
Clark's river is that which we have heretofore called the Flathead river (the Pend
d Oreille of the present day). I have thus named it in honor of my worthy friend
and f(li(iw traveler, Caj)tain (lark. I'nr this streaui we know no Indian name,
and no white man hut ourselves was ever on its )jrincipal branches."
The three Indians encountered by Lewis and Clark were evidently froui the
middle band of the S|)()kanes, living at a large village at the mouth of the Little
Spokane, but Lewis and Clark obviously fell into an error in attributing to them
the information that the S))okane discharges into the Columbia above the Pend
d'Oreille, for the latter stream falls into the greater river at a point just north of
the international boundary.
Continuing, Ca])tain Lewis wrote: "The Skeet-ko-mish nation resides in six
villages and are about seventy miles distant from the Chopunnish nation and beyond a
mount.iin which that river heads in. The Waytom lake (the Coeur d'Alene) is ten
days around it. has two islands in it. and is seven days from the Chopuiniish. The
falls of the l.artow river a little below the lake is l.")() feet, ne.irly ))er|)en(licular,
or thereabouts. "
Not so very wide of the mark, considering the explorers' nu-ans of information.
The f.-ills. in their lot.-il deseenl through .Spokane, drop nearly U'lO feet, but it can
scarcely be said that they .ire per|)endicular, or even "thereabouts."
It seems strange that so few of the nanus given by Lewis and Cl.irk to Indian
tribes and geographical points have been retained with settlement of the i-oiuitry.
Clark's river has become the Pend d'Oreille below the lake, but above it is still
called the Clark's fork. The Lewis lias Income the Snake, Waytom lake is lake
Coeur d'AleiK'; the Skeet-ko-niisli Indians the .Spokaiies. and the l.artow. wliieli
the ex|)lorcrs confused with the Spokane, is our own grewsome Hangman creek.
Lartow is manifestly another s|)elling for the subsequent I.ahtoo of Cieneral
Wright's rejiorts, and tlii' Latah of legislative enactment.
Again we return to the journals: "The falls of Clark's river, which is only
half a dav's ride from the latter, falls between 100 and ."jOO feet and leave a contin-
uous s))rav. The ro.ads which pass up (lark s river Iroiu the tails, and that which
intersicts it from the falls of L.artow rivir .are hilly and b.ad. The .Skeet-ko-mish
reside thirty niibs up this river. The Skect-ko-mish reside also on the borders of
Waytom Lake .anil on two isl.iials within the same."
Captain lewis's Indi.in inform.ints seem to have dr.awn ;i long bow in their
descrijition of the falls on the Cl.irk or Pend d'Oreille river. These .are now known
as .\lb.ini f.alls, .and .iri ne.ir the Iohii oI Newport,
II is possible thai wandering .and .adventurous white men or h.alf breeds may
h.i\e found their w.i\ lo the f.ills of the S))ok.ine prior to the coming of Lewis and
Cl.irk into this eountry. lint In ri- we are embarking on .a wide sea of conjecture.
Earlv in the nineteenth eenlury an aged ."^pok.ine woman (old the early-dav fur
BIEDSEYE VIEW OF SPOKANE
Mount Carletou and Pend d 'Oreille range in the distance
THE NEW yoRK
PUBLIC UBrA]
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 3
tradt-rs that slu- had once been far to the soutli, where she lieard mission bells and
saw men plowing fields, and it is within the range of probabilities that faint com-
munications had been opened between the Indians of the Spokane coimtry and the
Spaniards in far-away California. Some color is lent to this conjecture by the
resemblance between the saddles that were used by the Indians here a hundred
years ago and the Spanish or Mexican saddle. Certainly the Indian cayuse ponies,
which roamed over the Palouse country in large bands at the time of the Lewis
and Clark expedition, came from Spanish . stock, for the horse was extinct on this
continent at the time of the discovery of America. Old Indians informed the early
fur traders that the horse had been brought into this section within their own mem-
ory, and were fond of reciting the astonishment with which they viewed the strange
animal when their parents had taken them to see it in possession of a- neighboring
tribe.*
Lewis and Clark returned to the east, and for several years the government of
the United States put forth no effort to follow up such rights of possession as it
may have acquired by this great work of exploration. Indeed, President Jefferson,
who conceived and executed these explorations, appears to have entertained but
vague ideas regarding the outcome of the heroic achievement, for we find him, a
few years later, writing to John Jacob Astor of New York, encouraging the enter-
prise of that daring merchant, but holding out no expectation that either the flag or
the constitution would follow him to the distant banks of the Columbia.
"I remember well having invited your proposition on this subject (wrote Jeffer-
son to Astor) and encouraged it with the assurance of ^v.ery facility and protection
which the government could properly afford. , -I :considered, as a great public
acquisition, the commencement of a settlement '.on '.tJfaf point of the western coast
of America, and looked forward with gratification to the time when its descendants
should have spread themselves through tile whole length of that coast, covering it
with free and independent Americansj_JJ.?*epNi!fEfcTED' With Us But By The Ties
Of Blood And Interest, and enjoying like us the rights of self-government."
We come now to the advent of the fur traders — to the first commerce on the
Spokane — and the establishment ,i hundred years ago of rival stores by Astor 's
Pacific Fur com])any and the Northwest Fur company of Canada, at tiie con-
fluence of the Spokane and the Little Spokane, streams, designated then as the
Pointed Heart and the Spokane. A brief resume of the history of these companies,
and the older Hudson's Bay company, is essential to a clear understanding of the
stirring events that are to follow. To that end I shall (juote in part from Ross
Cox, who came to the northwest in 1812 as a clerk in the service of Mr. Astor 's
Pacific company, and in part from Irving's "Astoria," written by that great genius
after study of the records entrusted to him bv Mr. Astor, his friend.
* Xavier Finlay, a mixed blooil, when more tlian 80 years of age, at ttie time of the es-
tablishmeut of Fort Colville in 18.59, said to white men tJiat he could remember when the
first horse was brought into the country north of Snake river. Word came to the Indians
m the Colville valley, he said, of the presence of a strange animal among the Indians in the
Wilson Creek country, between Spokane and the Columbia, fleet as the wind, as large as an
elk, but without horns, and docile as a deer. Moved by curiosity, a number of northern
Indians, including his grandparents. Journeyed to see this first horse in the northern country,
and he recited how he was lifted, then a little boy, upon the back of the strange and beautiful
creature, and shivered with fear when the sleek coat touched his little bare legs.
4 SI'OKAM. AM) 'llll, IM.AM) IMI'lltl:;
rile liistury of tin- Ilmison's li.iy coiiiijany goes back to 1670, when King Charles
II of Kngland granted a cliarter to a number of adventurous gentlemen ambitious
to exploit the wilds of North America. Prince Rupert was made the first governor,
and the company w;is allowed the exclusive privilege of establishing trading fac-
tories on the shores of Hudson's bay and its tributary rivers.
"While Canada belonged to France," sa_vs Cox in 'Adventures on the Columbia
Hi\( r.' "the Canadian traders had advanced many liundred miles beyond lake Supe-
rior, and established several trading posts in the lieart of the interior, some of
which the votjacjeurs still call by their original names, such as Fort Dauphin, I'ort
Bourbon and others. The conquest of that province opened a new source of trade
to British enterprise ; and while the officers of the Hudson's Bay company fancied
their charter had secured thcni in the undisturbed possession of their monopoly, an
active ,ind tiittrprising rival was gradually encroaching on their territories, and
iin))ere( ptibly undermining their influence with the Indians. I allude to the North-
west I'ur company of Canada, which originally consisted of a few jirivate traders,
but subsequently becauK^ tlu' first commercial establisimicnt in British America.
"Its first members were British and Canadian merchants. Their clerks were ;
chiefly younger branches of respectable .Scottish families, who entered the service
as ap))rentiees for seven years, for wliich jjeriod they were allowed one hundred
j)()unds and suitaMt- clothing. At the expiration of their apprenticeship they were
pl;iced on yearly sal.iries. v.irying from 80 to 1(50 pounds, and aeeording to their
talents were ultimately |)rovided for as |)artners.
"This svsteni. bv creating an identity of interest, produced a sjiirit of emulation
among the clerks admirably calculated to |)romote the general good; for as each
individual was led to exjiect th.at the jieriod for his election to the l)ro))riet,ary de-
pended on his own exertions, every nerve was strained to attain the long-desired
object of his wishes.
"Courage was an intlis|)ensal)le (|uali(leation. not niercly for tiu' casual en-
counters with the Indians, but to intimidate any competitor in trade with u lioni he
might happen to conic in collision. Success was looked upon as the great criterion
of a trader's cleverness; and |)r()vided he obtained for his outfit of merch.indisc
what was considered a good return ot furs, the partners never stopped to inquire 1
about the means by which they were acquired.
"The Hudson's Bay company, on the contrary, presented no such inducements
to extra exertion on the part of its officers. Each individu.al had :i fixed salary,
wiliidiit :\\w pros|icet of liceoming a ]irii])ri(tor ; and some of them, whose c(nirage
was undoubted, when challenged to single combat by a Northwester, refused, alleg-
ing as a reason that they were engaged to trade for furs, and not to fight with fel-
low-subjects.
"Independently of the foregoing eircinnstances, the Northwest company, in
the selection of its canoe men. or, as they were called, cncjaf/es, had another great
.advantage over its chartered riv.il. These men were French Canadians, remarkable
for ribcdiiiiec to their su|)erinrs. and whose skill in managing canoes, capability of
enduring har(lshi|>s, and f.acility of adapting themsdVis to the habits and peculiari-
ties u{ the v.arious tribes, rendered tiieni infinitely more po]ndar in the eyes of the
Indians than tin- stiiblioni. niilii nding. matti r-of-faet Orkney men. (The chief part
WILLIAM ( l.AIJK
Of tlip Lewis ami (lark K,x|M'(litioTi
(Pf^^,. -.-o.^Ai^r]
LTlLCtf,_fr, . ... ^
SPOKANE AND THE INEAND EMPIRE 5
of the boatnifii, and several of tlie officers of the Hudson's Bay conii)any had been
formerly natives of the Orkney islands.)
"After establishing opposition trading posts adjoining tlie different faetories
of the Hudson's Bay company in the interior, the indefatigable Northwesters con-
tinued their progress to the northwest and westward, and formed numerous trading
establishments at Athabasca, Peace River, (jreat and Lesser Slave lakes. New
Caledonia and the Columbia, etc., to none of which places did the officers of the
Hudson's Bay company attempt to follow them. By these means the Northwest
com])any became undisputed masters of the interior. Their influence with the na-
tives was all-powerful, and no single trader, without incurring imminent danger
from the Indians or encountering the risk of starvation, could attempt to penetrate
into their territories.
"With the interior thus inaccessible, and the confines not worth disjiuting, Mr.
Astor turned his attention to the opposite side of the American continent (he had
been operating on the Atlantic side), and accordingly made proposals to the North-
west company to join with him in forming an establishment on the Columbia river.
This proposition was submitted to the consideration of a general meeting of the
wintering i}r()prietors (the annual winter conference at Fort William, near lake Supe-
rior) .111(1. after some negotiations as to the details, rejected.
'Mr. Astor therefore determined to make the attempt without their coopera-
tion, and in tlie winter of 1809 he succeeded in forming an association called the
Pacific I'ur eoni])any, of wliieii he liimself was the chief proprietor. As able and
experienced traders were necessary to insure success, he induced several of the
gentlemen connected with the Northwest company to quit that establishment and join
in his s|)eculation. Among these \y as "Alexahdex. McKay, an old |)artner. who had
aeoom|)anied Sir Alexander Mackenzie in 'his"))erilous journey across the eoiitiiunt
to tile Pacific ocean.
"It was intended in tin- first instanc'e' Jq forin ,a rtrading establishuunt at the
entrance of the Columbia, and as nifmy more sulisequently on its tributary streams
as tlie nature and ))roduetions of the country would admit. It was also arranged
that a vessel laden with goods for the Indian trade should sail every year from New
York f(n- the Columlna, and after discharging her cargo at the establishment, take
on board the ])roduee of the year's trade, and thence proceed to Canton, wiiich is
a ready market for furs of every description. On disposing of her stock of peltries
■it the latter ])lace, she was to return to New York, freighted with the productions
of Chin;i.
"The first vessel fitted nut by the Pacific I'ur eoinpany was the Ton(|uin. com-
manded by Ca])tain .lonathan Thorne, formerly a lieutenant in the service of the
United States. She sailed from New York in the autumn of 1810, and had on board
four partners, nine clerks, with a umiilur of inrelianics and I'oi/tificiirs, with a large
and well assorted cargo for the Indian and Cliinese trades.
"Much about the same period a party under the command of .Messrs. W. P.
Hunt and Donald Mackenzie left St. Louis on the Missouri, with the intention of
proceeding ;is nearly as possible by Lewis and Clark's route across the continent
to the mouth of the Columbia. This party consisted, besides the above gentlemen,
who were partners, of three clerks and upwards of seventy men.
"The following year. IKIl, another vessel, the Beaver, of f80 tons, commandrd
n SrOKWK AM) Till l\l \VI) FMPTRE
by Captain Cornelius Sowles, sailed for tlu- ('ulunil)ia. She li.id on board one
partner, six clerks and a nunilur of artisan-, and v(>;iii;iriirs, with a jjlentifiil su))pi_v
of everything that could eontrihute to tiie comfort of the ))assengers and crew."
Ross Cox einu on thr l{(a\er as one of the clerks in the service of Mr. Astor's
company.
It is not tile pnr|)osi- of Uiis iiislory to enter into the details of the setting iij) of
the establishment .it .Vstoria. hut reference liaving been made to the Tonquin. the
narrative would he incomiilete without a brief recital of her tragic fate. From the
hour she attempted to cross the Columl)ia river bar, "disaster followed fast upon
disaster." Chief .M.ite h'ox, with two American sailors and two ( .in.-idi.-in vuijd-
fieiirs, who were ordered out by Ca))tain Thornc in the long boat to sound tlie chan-
nel, were drowned in the iire.ikers on the '.J.'id of .March, .ind the gale became so
menacing that the 'I'oniinin drew off shore and w.iited tiiere two days for an abate-
ment of the tempest.
On the i2;")th, the wind ha\ing modir.ited, .i second etl'ort was made to cross tiie
b;ir. .'ind ,-igain it was necessary to order live men into the long boat for the perilous
duty of going .-liiead to se.ireh out the ch.mnel. Aiken, one of the officers. W'eekes,
the blacksmith. Coles, the sailmaker, and two natives from the Sandwich islands
were selected, and tiny too were swept into tlu breakers, shouting frantii-.illy for
the help that could iu)t be given. Aiken and Coles were drowned with the cajjsizing
of the little er.aft, but W'eekes ;ind the Sandwich islanders clung to the bo.at and
were e.-irried by tide and eurrnit out to sea. They succeeded in righting the boat.
but the isl.inders wire exhausted by colli and labor and were powerless to m.iii tin-
oars. Weekes pulled hard till daylight, and ni.ide a binding on the long beach to
the north of Cape Disappointment on the northern shore of the Columbia. One of
the Sandwich islanders had died in the night. ,ind the other was so exhausteil on
reaching land that he could not take .in Indian tr.iil which a|)peared to le.id tow.irds
the river. This tr.iil Wee krs followed, and ;i few hours' w.alking brought him in
sight of tile Toni|iiin. lying at .-uichor in the b;iy. .\ relief party brought in his
IJawaii.an companion ;ind be was restored to health.
Meanwhile the men on the Tonquin bad p.issed a night of terror. .\s the long-
boat was carried ;iw.i\'. tin slii|) struck repeatedly on the b.ar, and was swe|)t by
great breakers rolling in froni the P.ieifie. .'^Iie stuck ii|)on tin- s.aiids and for hours
was deluged in llie darkness, the people aboard c\|ieeting e\ ery minute to be their
last; but with d.aybreik the tide and a wind from the west set her atloat .ind she
was soon in s.afe waters under the shelter of the North cape.
The work of choosing a site for the establishment (Astoria), erecting buildings
to shelter the stores .md sup|)lies. ,ind diseh.irging cargo consumed several weeks,
and the Toii(|uin did not b ive the riM-r till .luiie '>. With \iS persons on bo.ard she
set sail for the norlli, am! picking up an liidi.iii iiilir|inlrr on tbi' w;iy, soon eame
tea h.arbor on \';iiieouver's isLind. ( )ul nl lliil barlinr llir T(mi|iiin sailed never-
more.
Accounts (if tile iiiass.ieri Mliieli have ediin down lo us I roiii (on. Irving. I'r.an-
chere and others .ire eonllieting. but on one tr.igie point there is eoiupleti- un.anim-
itv: s.aving oiil\ llie Indi.in interpreter, every soul abo.ird fell a victim to savage
treachery ind fury.
And \ rl tile niass.aere could easilv h;i\e been .■ivoided. and wcmlil have been but
MERIWETHEK LEWiy
Of the Lewis ami Clark Expedition
; THE N£W Yukk
jPUBUC LlBRARYl
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 7
for the pig-headedness of Captain Thorne, an irascible, contentious, stubborn indi-
vidual who scorned all prudent counsels, and by his insolence towards the Indians
invited the attack and frightful butchery that followed.
No sooner the Tonquin had come to anchor than canoes filled with Indians and
ladened with rich furs were seen putting off from shore, and as the natives mani-
fested a friendly purpose, they were taken aboard witli their pelts, and the business
of bartering was taken up. As the Indians brought a large number of sea-otter
skins, the most precious fur taken on these shores, Captain Thorne saw visions of
great profits, and began by offering trifling values. These the Indians, grown wise
and wary by years of sharp trading with Yankee ships, scorned and rejected, where-
upon Captain Thorne grew sulky and began to pace his deck in moody silence. An
Indian chief, holding a tempting sea-otter skin, dogged his footsteps and kept
holding the treasure before the irate captain, until Thorne, in a moment of uncon-
trollable anger snatched the pelt from the hands of the chief and with it struck
him across the face.
Secretly vowing revenge, the Indians went ashore, and the interpreter and Mr.
McKay, one of the partners, warned Thorne that mischief was brewing and advised
him to weigh anchor and sail away. These counsels were curtly rejected, the cap-
tain affirming that he could whip three times as many savages as the whole country
could nuister, and pointed to his cannon and firearms in substantiation of his boast.
On the following morning, while Thorne and McKay were still asleep, several
canoe loads of Indians drew to the ship's side, and the natives were permitted to
come aboard. They were followed by others, and soon the deck was swarming
with them in such numbers as interfered with the work of the crew. Thorne and
McKay were called, and McKay urged the captain to lift anchor and sail away,
but even then Thorne was obdurate for a while, and allowed the Indians to exchange
furs for knives. In the meanfipie the interpreter had observed that a number of
the natives wore mantles, and expressed a suspicion to Thorne and McKav tliat
they were secretly armed, a fear that was soon to have frightful verification, for at
a signal by the chief, the mantles were cast aside, revealing war clubs and knives,
and with demoniacal yells the savages began their work of death and destruction.
As the arms were all in the cabin, the officers and crew could offer little effective
resistance. Captain Thorne fought with savage fury, armed only with a large
clasp knife, and killed several Indians and woinided many others before he was
dispatched with a war club while leaning on the tiller wheel in exhaustion. Mr.
Lewis, the clerk, though mortally wounded, fought his way to the cabin, and four
of seven men who were aloft when the fighting started, managed to drop to the
deck and reach the same place of refuge, the remaining three having been dispateiied
with war clubs in the same effort.
Once in the cabin and possessed of arms, the survivors opened fire and cleared
the ship.
Regarding the subsequent developments we find conflicting reports. According
to one account, when some Indians ap])roached the ship cautiously the following
morning, the survivors opened negotiations and offered to surrender it without fur-
ther fighting provided they be allowed to take a boat and leave unmolested. An-
other statement says the survivors, witli the exception of Lewis, tile clerk, took to
8 Sl'OKAM'. AND 11 IK INLAND KMIMUK
the lioal uiiiK-r c-ovtr of darkiiiss tin- iii;i,l]t Ixforc It is |iroli.i!ilr. thouirli, that
Lewis staid with tin- ToiKiuiii to tlic last.
The Indian interpreter, wlio liad been sjiared and taken ashore in one of the
canoes, reported that when the Indians approached the ship the next morning, only
one man was visible, and resjiondinp to his peaceful invitation, they went aboard in
large numbers. Wliile in tiu- height of tlieir exultation there came a terrific explo-
sion of the ship's magazine, killing more than a hundred of the savages and wound-
ing more than a liundred others. The sea was reddened with their blood, and for
davs afterward severed members were washed upon the shore.
The four nu 11 who eseajird in tlic bo.it. uiialib-. by reason of tide and current, to
pull out to sea. were forced to bind in .i small cove. Overpowered by weariness and
loss of sleei). they fell into a dee]) slumber and were captured by the infuriated
Indians. One report says they were dispatched on the spot, but another recites that
tliev were taken |)ris()iurs into the village and slowly tortured to dcatli. The fact
that Weekes, the man who made so gall.int .i fight for life in the breakers on the
Columbia river ii.ir, was one of the four tlius nmrdered or tortured, deepens the
])athos of this distressing tr.igedy of early days.
Tliat Lewis, the clerk, meditated and executed tlu blowing up of the Tonquin,
first enticing abo.ird a gre.it number of the natives, we may scarcely doubt. He
])()ssessed a mel.-uielioly nature, and on the w.ay out from New York had voiced a
))remonition that he should die by his own hand. Irving says he refused to accom-
jiaiiy the men wlio ;itteiii])ted escape by sm.ill boat, "being disabled by liis wound,
hopeless of cscajje and determined on a terrilile revenge. He now declared his
intention to remain on board of the shij) until daylight, to decoy as many of the
savages on board as possible, then to set fire to the |)owder magazine, and terminate
his life by a signal act of vengeance."
CHAPTER II
WHITE MEN OX THE SPOKANE
nXAX MACDONALD PROBABLY FIRST TO VIEW THE FALLS RACE BETWEEN ASTORIANS AND
THE NORTHWESTERS BRITISHERS ESTABLISH SPOKANE HOUSE AMERICANS LOCATE
AT MOITH OF OKANOGAN A YEAR LATER AT MOUTH OF LITTLE SPOKANE MR.
ASTOr's STOCK OF GOODS HORSEFLESH STAPLE ARTICLE OF DIET ADVENTURES OF
ROSS COX RESCUED BY FRIENDLY SPOKANES BUFFALO WEST OF THE ROCKIES
TRADING WITH THE INDIANS DUEL AT SPOKANE HOUSE GAY LIFE IN THE BALL
ROOM LIFE OF PERIL AND HARDSHIP PASSING OF THE BRIGADES A MOTLEY CREW.
INASMUCH as the events in the preceding chapter touched the earlier history
of S])okane and the Inland Empire at important points, the author has at-
tempted to describe them with some particularity. They signalized the very
first effort by an American citizen to establish commerce in a permanent form on
the Columbia river and its interior tributaries, and portions of the Tonquin's cargo
were transported to the interior in canoes and bateaux for the founding of trading
posts at tlie mouth of the Okanogan and the forks of the Spokane and Little Spokane.
We know not for a certainty the name of the first adventurous white man to
gaze u])on the wild cataracts of the Spokane, but unquestionably the distinction
of having been one of the first goes to David Thompson, astronomer, engineer and
naturalist in the service of the Xortliwest Fur company.* In his "Remarkable His-
tory of the Hudson's Bay company," George Bryce informs us that —
"In .Inly. 1811, reports began to reach the traders at Astoria that a body of
white men were building a fort far up the Columbia. This was serious news, for
if true, it meant that the supjjly of furs looked for at Astoria would be cut off.
An effort was made to find out the truth of this rumor, without success, but imme-
diately after came definite information that the Northwest company agents were
erecting a jiost at S))okane. This was none other than David Thompson, the emis-
*T. C. Elliott of Walla Walla, a painstaking stnclent of northwestern history, believes
that the Korthwesters established Spokane House in 1810, and that the work was
probably done by Finan JIaeDonald, one of Thompson's men. That Thompson explored the
Pend d 'Oreille lake and river region in 1809-10, and wintered that year at a trading post near
the Flathead Indians in Montana, and was at Spokane House in the spring of 1811. "Skeet-
shoo was the designation given by Thompson to the Spokane river, and to the lake later known
as the Coeur d'Alene. " Thompson was then en route by horseback to Kettle Falls, where he
built canoes for his descent of the Columbia. — "David Thompson, Pathfinder, and the Colum-
bia River," an address delivered at Kettle Falls on the occasion of the centennial celebra-
tion in 1011.
10 SI'OK.Wi: A\l) rill, |\| \\|) I.MIMItK
sary of tlic \()rtli\vi->>l cimiii/iiiy siiil to Inristall llir hiiildiiifi' of Astoria'^ fort.
'I'liough too late to fulfill this iiii>.sioii. on .lulv Ij. 1 h 1 I , tin- ilouglity astronomer
ami surveyor, in Ills caiioi- inaiiiucl l>y tigiit iiu ii and having the British ensign
Hying, sto])pccl in front of the new fort Vfter waiting for eigiit days,
'rhniii|ison. hiving received supplies and goods from McDougall (in command at
A.sloriaj started on iiis return journey. WitI) him journeyed U]) the river David
Stuart, wiio, with eigiit nun. was jiroeeeding on a fur and trading expedition.
.•^tuart li.iil lilllr eonfidence in 'rhnni|ison. .md l)v a device succeeded in getting
liini to proeeed on iiis journey .and le.ive iiiin to choose his own site for a fort.
Going up to within 1 lO niiles of the Spok.me river, .and at tlie junction of tile
Okanogan and CohiiiiMa. .siii.irt ereeti-d a tenipor.iry fort to e.irry on iiis first sea-
son's trade. "
It seems prohalilc tli.it il .Mr. .\st(ir had not (Xjioscd iiis li;iiid in his pnliuiin.ary
negotiations for .i p.irtmrsliip with tin .Nortiiwesters, Thompson would not li.ivc
been disijatehed to the f.ir nortliwist, .and the Pacific Fur coin])any would li.n e
enjoyed an un(lis])uted o))portunity to seize tile strategic points and thus lueome
strongly entr<iielird well .alic.id of its euiniing .and d.iring riv.ils.
I'his w.as not, iiowever, Thompson's fir.st .appear.aiiee njion tile u|)])er waters of
till Cohnnhui. From tlie s.aine authority it is learned that- -
"In 1^)9 Thompson diti rniirnd on extending his explorations southw.ird on
the Columbia river," and th.at ".a short distance south of tlic intcrn.ition.il luiund.ary
he built a post in Se])tenilHr of that year."
'I'lioiupson returned to the east, but e.ainr b.aek. and in July. 1811, started on :\
dcseent of tile Columi)ia tli.it was to give him the record of the first wiiite man to
follow tli.it stream to its confluence with the Snake, Lewis and Clark iiaving de-
seciidi d by w.ay of the Cle.irw.iter .md tin l^n.ake. At tile mouth of the .Sjiok.ine
lie erected a pole .-md tied to it .a h.alf sheet of paper, claiming the country north
of the forks .as British territory. This notice was seen by a number of Astor em-
ployes, for Ross states tli.it he obsi-r\ed it in -Vugust, "willi the 15ritish flag Hying
upon it. "
I'rancliere h.as neonhil ,a more eireunist.iiiti.il .lei'ouiit ot the iin.asion of the
Norlhwesters. On .luiie l;"), ten d.ays after the 'l'onc|uiii had sailed .iw.iy to de-
struetion, "some n.alixes from u|) the river brought us two str.aiige Indi.ins. a m.an
and .1 woni.in. They were not .attired like the s.ivages on tile river Colunibi.a, but
wore long robes of dressed dtirskin. with leggings .and moee.asins in the f.asliion of
tile tribes to the east of the Roeky iiiount.ains. W'c |iiit (lueslions to tlieiii in v.irious
Indi.an di.aleels, but tlii'V did not undirsl.aiid us. 'I'luy showed us ,a letter addressed
to '.Mr. .loliii .stii.irt. I'ort I'.slik.it.idiiie. New Caledonia.' Mr. I'illel tlieii .address-
ini^ tli<-ni in the Knistene.aux l.angu.age, they .answered, although they ;i])]ieared not
to undersl.ind it perfectly. N'ot withst.inding we le.arned from them tli.it thev h.ad
bei'ii sent liy .i Mr. 1 imi.iii Mel)(in.il(l. .i ilrrk in (he ser\ ice of the Northwest
comp.any, who ii.ad ,a post on .a ri\cr which tluy called .Spokan : that li.iving lost
their w.ay, they h.ad followed tin- course of the T.aeoiis.ah-Tesseh, tin Indi.in ii.aine
ol till- ( oluiiibi.i : thai when tliey .irri\cd .at the tails, the n.itives m.'ide them iinder-
st.and th.at linr. urrr wliiti- men .at the luoutli of the river; .and not doubting th.at
the jierson to whom the lettiT w.as .addressed would be found thercj tliey had come
to deliver it. «
,IOH.\ JACOB ASTOK
THf- NEW YOM
PUBLIC ilBRAR]
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 11
"We kept these messengers for some days, and having drawn from them impor-
tant information respecting the country in the interior, west of the mountains, we
decided to send an expedition thither, under the command of Mr. David Stuart;
and the lath of July was fixed for its departure."
Here appears, perhaps for the first time in printed record, the name "Spokan,"
and tliese wandering natives who had found their way to the mouth of the Colum-
bia, in all i)robability were of that tribe. Lewis and Clark, it will be recalled, had
heard of the river as the Skeet-ko-mish, but an explanation of this seeming conflict
in nomenclature is found in the fact that the Indians had no well established name
for any of the rivers of this western country, each tribe or band applying its own
local name to that portion of the stream flowing through its particular section. In
this way it frequently was found that a single river bore half a dozen or even
more appellations.
Stuart's expedition to the interior comprised four clerks — Pillet, Ross, McLen-
non and ^Montigny, and two natives from the Sandwich islands. Their three canoes
were well ladened with provisions and goods needed for a trading establishment.
"The place which he pitched upon for his trading post (we quote now from
'Astoria') was a point of land about three miles in length and two in breadth,
formed by the junction of the Oakinagan with the Columbia. The former is a
river which has its source in a considerable lake, and the two rivers, about the
place of tlieir confluence, are bordered by immense prairies covered with herbage,
but destitute of trees. The point itself was ornamented with wild flowers of every
hue, in which innumerable humming-birds were banqueting nearly the livelong day.
"The situation of this point appeared to be well adapted for a trading post.
The climate was salubrious, the soil fertile, (Okanogan boosters will please take
notice) tlie rivers well stocked with fish, and natives^ peaceable and friendly. There
were easy communications with the Interior by the' upper waters of the Columbia
and the lateral streams, while the downiward current of the Columbia furnished a
highway to Astoria.
"Availing himself, therefore, of the driftwood which had collected in quantities
in the neighboring bends of the river, Mr. Stuart and his men set to work to erect
a house, which in a little while was sufficiently completed for their residence ; and
thus was established the first interior post of the company."
And thus was established the first American commerce within the broad confines
of the Inland Empire. Momentous beginning, squalid though it seemed in the
little depot built of driftwood from the banks of the Columbia, of a commerce and
an industry which has now attained a magnitude far transcending the wildest flights
of the imagination of tiie merchant prince who, from his office in New York had
launched his daring enterprise and thereby contributed powerfully to the strength-
ening of our title to this broad northwest at a time when British statesmanship and
British enterprise were striving mightily to set their red ensign forever in these skies.
We come now to the founding, in the summer of 181 '2, of Astor's trading post
at the mouth of tlie Little S])okane, some ten miles northwest of the present city
of Spokane. It will interest our present day merciiants, and tlie i)ublic as well,
to take a hurried inventory of that first stock of merchandise to be vended in S|)o-
kane county. As we have seen, the Northwesters had beaten the Astorians to this
l)oint, but as David Thompson had traveled overland from eastern Canada, and
12 Sl'OKANK AM) 'IIli: INLAND I'.MPIRK
bfcii dL'Strli il nil till- way by a larf;c part of his cxptdition wlio had become dis-
eontfiitid or alarimd and retiiriud to i-ivilizatioii, it is evident that he eouhl
not have set up inueli of an estabhshinent at this site. Tlie fact that he was
destitute of supplies when he arrived at Astoria, and was uiidir tlie necessity of
begginj; from tlie Americans, may be acce))ted as proof that lie iiad not left much
at his so-called post on the Spokane, j)robably nothing at all beyond some impedi-
menta which he was glad to lay aside. Thompson was unaware, when he left the
.'^|)i)kane country for the mouth of the river in July. 1811. that an American estab-
lishment had been erected there, and it is not probable, if he liad had supplies to
leave on the Spokane, that he would have ventured empty-handed down the Colum-
bi.i. Ii\ing from hand to mouth.
Mr. .\stor's stock, selected especially to appeal to Indian nature, included guns
aiul aniiiiunition, spears, hatchets, knives, beaver traps, copper and brass kettles,
wiiite ami green bl;iiikets; blue, green and red cloths; calicoes, beads, rings, thim-
bles, hawksbells and other gewgaws. For provisions, there were beef, pork, flour,
rice, biscuits, tea, sugar and a moderate quantity of rum and wines.
W'itli this cargo a large exjiedition left Astoria June 29, 1812, the party includ-
ing three partners, nine clerks, fifty-five Canadians, twenty Sandwich islanders, and
^Messrs. Crooks, McClelland and R. Stuart, who, with eight men were to proceed witli
dispatches to St. Louis. It traveled in bateau.x and light built canoes, the former
carrying eight men, the latter six. The goods were packed in bales and boxes, and
the liquids in kegs holding on an average, nine gallons. Ross Cox informs us that
from thirty to forty of these jiackages were placed in each vessel, and the whole was
covered liy an oilcloth or tarpaulin, to jireserve them from wet. Each canoe and
barge had troin six to eight men, rowing or paddling, independent of the passengers.
Extraordinary j)recautions were taken to guard .against attack by the thieving
Wishram Indians at the Cascades of the Columbia, where a long portage was re-
(juired around the rough water. The expedition arrived .it tin- foot of the portage
on the evening of the fourth of ,Iuly. and ])re|)arations were made for action. Each
man was given a musket and forty rounds of ball cartridge, and over his clothes
wore an elkskiii shirt, rraehiiig to tin- kiues. It was entirely arrow )>roof. and at
eighty or ninety yards could not be |)enetrated by .i musket ball. Besides the mus-
kets a number had daggers, short swords and pistols; "and when armed cap-a-pie,"
says Cox, "we presented a formidable a])])earance."
.So formidablr. in f let. that the Indians, though gathered around in numbers and
looking enviously upon such stons of wealth, had not the hardihood to assail the
strangers. Hut at midnight, win ii the weary voi/(i(iciir.s were in a sound slumber,
•■md the dark mountains and forests were Init faintly illumined by the dying camii-
fires, they were suddenly aroused and thrown into frightful confusion by the report
of a gun and the cries of Mr. Pillet, one of the clerks, that he had been shot.
"Every one instantly seized his arms and inquired on which side was the enemy;
but our ap))rehensions were quickly appeased on learning it was merely an accident.
One of the gentlemen, in examining the musket of a Sandwich islander, to see if it
was primed, handed it to liini at full cock; and just as the islander had taken
it, the piece went off .-uiil tin contents lodged in the calf of poor Fillet's leg, who
naturally enough exclaimed tli.it lie was shot. This was, however, in our pr.esent
circumstances, a disagreeable event, .is it rendered Mr. I'illet not only ine.iiiable of
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 13
fighting, but required three or four men to carry him in a litter over the various
portages. The wound was dressed with friar's balsam and lint, the ball extracted,
the next day, and in about a month afterward he was able to walk."
At a point near The Dalles the party purchased five horses from the Indians.
"The value of the goods we paid for each in England would not exceed five shil-
lings," says the historian of the expedition. "As these horses were intended for the
kettle, they were doomed to instant destruction. Our comparatively recent separation
from the land of bread and butter caused the idea of feeding on so useful and noble
an animal to be at first highly repugnant to our feelings; but example, and above
all, necessity, soon conquered these little qualms of civilization, and in a few days
we almost brought ourselves to believe that the animal on which we fed once carried
horns, was divided in the hoof, and chewed the cud."
Horseflesh, in fact, was to become the staple diet at the posts on the Spokane
and the Okanogan, and it is recorded that eighty cayuses were consumed in a single
winter at Spokane,
After their association with the filthy, fish-eating, canoe-squatting Indians
around the mouth of the Columbia, the party were inclined to look upon the more
cleanly interior tribes with an approving and indulgent eye. "The Wallah-Wallahs
were decidedly the most friendly tribe we had seen on the river. They had an air of
open, unsuspecting confidence in their manner that at once banished suspicion and
ensured our friendship. There was a degree of natural politeness, too, evinced by them
on entering their lodges, which we did not see practiced by any others. We visited
several families in the village, and the moment we entered, the best place was se-
lected for us, and a clean mat spread to sit on ; while the inmates, particularly the
women and children, remained at a respectful distance, without manifesting any of
the obtrusive curiosity about our arras or clothing, b_y which we were so much an-
noyed among the lower tribes."
^Mercenary immorality, we are informed, was unknown among them, in admir-
able contrast to the oil-besmeared women on the coast. Cox found that "the females
were distinguished by a degree of attentive kindness totally removed from the dis-
gusting familiarity of the kilted ladies below the rapids, and equally free from an
affection of jjrudery ; and I believe no inducement would tempt them to commit a
breach of chastity."
At the junction of tlie Columbia and the Snake, present site of Pasco and Kenne-
wick, the adventurers encamped for three days, while buying horses for their jour-
neys inland. David Stuart and jiarty then proceeded u)) the Columbia in their
c;uioes, to the Jiost at tiie mouth of the Okanogan, and Donald MeKenzie and bis
party up the Snake river, to establish a trading post on its upper reaches.
"The natives of this district," writes Cox, "are called the Pierced-nose Indians,
but as French is the language in general use among traders in this country, owing
to most of their workmen being Canadians, we commonly called them Leg Ne::
Perces. They do not differ much from the Wallah-Wallahs in their dress or lan-
guage, but are not so friendly, and demand higher prices for their horses. Their
liabitations are covered with large mats fixed on poles ; some are square, others
oblong, and some conical. They are of various sizes, from twenty to seventy feet
long, and from ten to fifteen feet broad. These dwellings are pretty free from
vermin, and are easily changed when occasion requires.
14 SPOKANH AM) Till-. INLAND F.MriRJ-,
"The women wiar li atln rii roln s wliicli cover tiii- shoulders. ]).irt ot the arms,
tlie lireasts, and re.ieli down to their legs. The men have robes nearly similar, hut not
.so long, with leggings which ri-.ieh u|) li.alf the thigii, and are fastened to a belt round
the waist with le.it lur thongs. 'I'hey .ire clean, active and smart-looking, good
hunters and excellent horsemen. They enjoy good health, .and with the exccjition
oi a few sore eyes, did not ;i|)])e.ar to h.ive .any disorder. Thev are fond of their
ehildnn .and .itlcntivc to the w.ants of their old |ieoi)le. Their saddles are made of
dressed dei rskin. stnfVed with h.iir; tile stirrujis are wooden, with the bottoms
broad .and H.at, and covered over with raw skin, which when dry becomes hard and
lasts a long time. The bridles are merely ropes made out of the hair of the horses'
tails, and are tied round their under jaw."
After the purchase of twenty-live horses, the p.arty proceeded up the Snake,
sonic oil l.iiiil with llir horses, hut the greater part still in the canoes. In this man-
ner they continued to the mouth of the I'alousc river, where more horses were pur-
ch.ased, for lure they were to leave the river and go overland to Spokane. The
canoes .ind li.ite.nix were stored .aw.iy in ,a snug jil.aee and entrusted to the care of
the chief of the vilLigc .at that lioint, and ,as a reward for his oversight he was given
a "fathom of blue cloth," an .axe and .i knife: and to his wife were given some
strings of white .and blue beads .and three dozen li.iwUliells for her chemise de cuir.
The vill.age here coiujirised about forty in.al-eovered te))ees.
Some conception of the toilsoiiu' eh.ar.actcr of a journey as then inaiic to the
interior iii.iy be gleam il Iniiii llie f.act tli.at this party, leaving Astoria June 29, took
till .\ugust 7 to reach the mouth of the I'.alouse on .Snake river, and the ])reparations
,it th.it |)oiiit consniiied eight days more, so it was not until the 1 ;)th that it took
up tile oicrl.iiid journey for the Spokane, under the guid.uice of ,in Indian employed
.at the I'.alouse vill.age.
The ji.arty now consisted iif one priiprielor, Cl.irke. four clerks, twenty-one
C.an.adi.ins, ,aiid six i^.mdwieh isl.iiiders, uilli (he liiilian gui(K', and traversed the in-
terMiiing I'.alouse country lu tw( tii the .Sn.ake and the .Spok.aiu- in safetv, the only
incident of note li.aviiig luiii the se|).ar;itioii of Ross Cox from the brigade and his
consequent loss .and w.iiideiings, .iloiie. without means of making fire, and scantily
.attired, for a jicriod of fourtieii d.ays. when he finally st.iggered into the camp of
some friendly Indians on the .Spok.uie. emaciated from hunger and hardship, and
with feet so swollen ami lile<iling tli.it he could scarcelv walk.
One report allegi s th.it Cox. who w.is a red-he.aded and somewhat ini])efuous
Irishni.iii. persisted in Lagging .along the w.iy. .and li,a\iiig been reprini.inded bv
Cl.arke bec.aiiie iiisiiliordiii.ate. ,aiul still persisting in Ins refusal to Uee|i up with the
p.arty, w.as left far behind in the hope that it would serve as a wholesome lesson.
Cox himself offers .an entirely di lien lit .and (|iiite ))l,iiisil)le explanation — in elTcct
that attracted by the beauty of the b.iiiUs of ,i litlK stre.iiii where the expedition had
made a noonday jiausc, he strolled .along till he c.iiiii In a iialural arbor .and lay
down to rest. Overcome by weariness .and the lie.it nl the .\agusl sun, he fell into
a sound sluiiiber from which he .aw.ikeiied sever.il linui-s later to discover that the
|).irty w.as gone .and he left alone in a wild .and sav.ige Land. He followed the trail
until it w.as lost on rocky ground, and then climbed ,a high hill, but the e.avalcade
was nowhere to be seen. His only clothing w,is .a p.iir of ii.aiiki en trousers, a ging-
h.aiii shirt and a p.air of worn nioee.asins, .and he sulVered inleiisely ,it night from cold
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 15
and exposure. Not having even a pistol, his only means of subsistence were wild
berries and roots, excepting one meal at a point where a party of Indians had made
their camp the night before and left around their fire the remnants of some grouse
upon wliich they had dined. In his description of his adventures, Cox seems to have
exaggerated his experiences with wolves, bears and rattlesnakes, but for the rest
iiis narrative is obviously a faithful record of his troubles.
Rev. Samuel Parker, who was sent into this country in 1835 by the American
Board of Foreign ^Missions, and traversed the Spokane country that year, makes
liglit of Cox's adventures and writes him down an arrant nature faker. Describing
the Spokane woods, Parker says: "These are the woods in which Ross Cox was lost,
about the circumstances of which he gives a very interesting description, but which,
so far as I have had as yet an opportunity to judge, contains far more fiction than
truth. But his multitude of growling bears and howling wolves and alarming rattle-
snakes, of which I have seen only one, may yet come out from their lurking places
in hostile array."
Cox's account of Iiis ultimate rescue by a family of tlie Spokanes is so pleasingly
descriptive of the natural kindliness of "our first citizens of Spokane," that I in-
corporate it here :
"On advancing a short distance into the meadow (where he had seen horses)
the cheering sight of a small column of gracefully ascending smoke, announced my
vicinity to human beings, and in a moment after two Indian women perceived me.
They instantly fled to a hut which appeared at the farther end of the meadow. This
movement made me doubt whether I had arrived among friends or enemies, but my
apprehensions were quickly dissipated by the approach of two men, who came run-
ning to me in the most friendly manner. On seeing the lacerated state of my feet,
they carried me in tiieir arms to a comfortable dwelling covered with deer skins. To
wash and dress my torn limbs, roast some roots and boil a small salmon, seemed but
the business of a moment. After returning thanks to that great and good Being
in whose hands are the issues of life and death, and who had watched over my
wandering steps, and rescued me from the many perilous dangers I encountered, I
sat down to my salmon, of which it is needless to say, I made a hearty supper.
'Tlie family consisted of an elderly man and his son, with their wives and chil-
dren. I collected from their signs that tiiey were aware of my being lost, and that
they, with other Indians and white men, had been out several days, scouring the
woods and plains in search of me. I also understood from them that our party had
arrived at their destination, which was only a few hours' march from their habitation.
They behaved to me with affectionate solicitude, and while the old woman was care-
fully dressing my feet, the men were endeavoring to make me comprehend their
meaning.
"As it was too late, after finishing my supper, to proceed farther that night, I
retired to rest on a comfortable couch of buffalo and deerskins. I slept soundly,
and the morning of the thirty-first was far advanced before I awoke. After break-
fasting on the remainder of the salmon, I prepared to join my white friends.
"A considerable stream, about ninety yards broad, called Coeur d'Alene river,
flowed close to the hut. (The name invariably attached in early days to that part
of the Sjiokane flowing between the lake and the mouth of the Little Spokane.) We
crossed the river in a canoe, after which they brought over three horses, and having
16 Sl'OKAM. AMJ 1111. INLAND l..Mi'lUE
cnv<l(i|)t(I my body in an Indian niantli- of diiTskin. wi- nidnnti-d and ^( t off in a
smart trot in an lastcrly diriition.
"W'l- had not proceeded niori than scvi-n inilc?> when I felt th( had effects of hav-
intC cattii >'" imiili sahnon after so long a fast. I had a st-vcre attack of indigestion,
•and for two hours sutfcrcd cxtrenie agony; and but for the great attention of the
kind Indians. I think it wouhl iiave proved fatal.
"Al)out .in hour .after rceonuneneing our journey, we arrived in a clear wood,
in which, with joy unutt<ral)le, I observed our Canadians at work hewing timber. 1
rode betwt-en the two natives. One of our men, named Francois Gardepie, who had
been on a trading excursion, joined us on horseback. My deerskin robe and sun-
burnt features completely set his |)owers of recognition at defiance, and he addressed
me as .in Indian. I ri]ilii(i in 1 n neh liy asking how our pmpU- wi-re. I'oor l r.in-
cois ai)j)e.ired i lettritied. excl.iimed "Saiiite t'ierge!" and g.dloped into the wood
vociferating: 'Oh vies amis, vies amis il est trouve! Qui, uiii, il est trouve!' (Oh,
my friends, my friends, he is found 1 Yes, yes, he is found!)
" 'Qui? qui?' .asked his comrades, 'Monsieur Cox, Monsieur Cox,' rei)lied Fr.in-
cois; '/(■ voila! le voila!' (There he is, there he is!)
"Away went saws, hatchets and axes, and each m.in rushed forw.ird to the
tents where we had by this time arrived. It is needless to say th.it our astonishment
and delight at my miraculous escape were mutual. Tlie friendly Indians were lib-
erally rewarded, the men were allowed a holiday, and every countenance bore the
smile of joy and ha|)piness."
The site chosen for the Spokane (lost was tile neck of land lyiiiir l)etween the
Spokane and Little Spokane rivers, a short distance above the joiniiii; of the two
waters. Cox describes it as thinly covered with (jine and other trees, .and close to
.1 trading ])Ost of the Xortliwest eomp.iny. under the command of Me.Mill.ui. one of
their clerks, who had ten men with him. The Northwest company had two other
posts in the interior, one .about •■IW miles from .S))okane House, in a northe.asterly
direction, for tr.ading with the I'l.ithe.ids. the otiier about '.iOO miles north of the
Spokane, "among a tribe called the Cootonais (Kootenais) in whose country there
are plentv of beavers, deer, mountain sheep, and, at times, buffaloes."
Tli.at iiiiff.ahi* were to be found .among the Kootenais. occupying as tiiey did the
wihl .and deeply ucioded iiKiuiil.ains and valleys of the ujiper Columbia, may be ques-
tioned. While there is .abundant testimony that buiValo had formerly ro.amed over
the great ))lains between the Rocky mountains and the Cascades, they h.ad become
extinct here prior to the ,id\en( of the first white men. .and the tribes living west of
the Rocky mountains h.ad long been under the necessity of making long hunting
trijjs into the country of the IMackfeet for their snjiplies of robes and dried bulV.alo
meat. In these expeditions the interior tribes, notably the Flatheads and the Coeur
d'.Vlenes. had suffered frightful losses from savage attacks on their hunters by tiie
Jilackfcct, and a fierce and implacable feud had grown uj) between these tribes and
• From tlic journal of Dr. George Suckley, surgeon U. S. A., who deseendefl the Pciid
d 'Oreille in a eanoe in the autumn of 1S53, I take this interesting excerpt: "BiilValo were
formerly in great nunihcis in this valley, as .attested by the number of skulls seen and by the
reports of the inhabitants. Kor a number of years past none had been seen west of llie
CRoeky) mountains; but, singular to relate, a buffalo bull was killed at the mouth of tUu
Pend d 'Oreille river on the day I passed it. The Indians were in great joy at this, supposing
tliat the tiiifrrild were coining baek among them.
FALLS OF l-\\K PAT.ni'SE
As ilrawu hy urtist nith CluvLTUur Stevens' Kxpoditimi, 1853
THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRAKY
A8TBH, LtHOX
TILOEN FOUNOATlONi
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 17
the wild warriors of the plains. As the Blackfeet had come into contact with the
fur traders operating east of the Rockj^ mountains, and had become possessed of
firearms and ammunition before the establishment of trading posts west of the
Rocky mountains, the Indians of the Spokane comitry suii'ered a terrible disad-
vantage in their wars, and hence were eager to meet the western traders and ex-
change their furs for guns and powder and ball.
The origin of the name P'lathead, as applied by the French trappers and voyageurs
to the superior tribe occupying the country on the western slopes of the Rockies, is
veiled in mysterv. It does not appear that these Indians had ever adopted the prac-
tice of flattening the heads of their infants; certainly they were not given to that
custom when the white men came into the country, a strange custom that was con-
fined to a few tribes seated around the mouth of the Columbia. It maj^ be the name
was bestowed in derision or anger, since the term "tete plate" or Flathead has long
been in use among the French as a term of reproach or villification. Rostand em-
ploys it in "Cyrano de Bergerac" when he causes de Bergerac, in his angry outburst
against Le Facheux, to exclaim:
"Enorme, mon nes! Vil camus, sot camard, tete plate!"
As the Northwest company had established posts among these Indians, the
Astor j)eople decided to set up rival establishments, and clerk Pillet was dispatched
with six men to locate a post among the Kootenais, and Farnam and Cox were sent
from Spokane House to establish one among the Flatheads. Their mission achieved,
the latter returned to the Spokane in time to share in the New Year's festivities,
which were conducted on a scale of comparative magnificence. Clarke had built a
snug and roomy dwelling house of four rooms and a kitciien ; another commodious
structure for the men, and a capacious store for the furs and goods, "the whole
surrounded by high paling and flanked by two bastions witii loopholes for musketry."
So the party were in a position to take their ease, and the gay and care-free French-
men enjoyed to their fullest zest the Christmas and New Year "regales." On such
festive occasions flour and sugar were served out to the men for cakes, and a gener-
ous allowance of rum and wine to wash down the unwonted luxuries of the day.
"I passed the remainder of the winter at this place," run the Cox chronicles,
"and between hunting, reading, fishing, etc., we contrived to spend the time agree-
ably enough. We lived principally on deer, trout and carp (more probably suckers
or whitefish), and occasionally killed a fat horse as a substitute for beef. Custom
had now so far reconciled us to the flesh of this animal, that we often preferred it
to what in Euro])e might be regarded as luxuries. Foals or colts are not good, al-
though a few of our men preferred them. A horse for the table should not be under
three years nor above seven. The flesh of those which are tame, well fed and occa-
sionally worked, is tender and firm, and the fat hard and white; it is far superior to
the wild horse, tlie flesh of which is loose and string}*, and the fat yellow and rather
oily. \\'e generally killed the former for our own table, and .1 can assure my readers
tliat if they sat down to a fat rib. or a rump steak of a well fed four-year-old, with-
out knowing the animal, tliey would imagine themselves regaling on a piece of prime
ox beef. In February we took immense quantities of carp in Spokane river (the
Little Spokane) above its junction with the Pointed Heart, and in a few weeks
after the trout came in great abundance.
"The Spokans we found to be a quiet, honest, inoffensive tribe ; and although
18 Sl'OKAM. A\U lilK IM.AM) KMriUE
we had fortifiid our tstaMisliuniit in tlit- iiianiu-r aliovc int-ntioned, we seldom closed
the gates at niglit. Their couiitrv did not ■•ibouiul in furs, and they were rather indo-
lent in hunting. Their chief, Illutnspokanee, or the Son of the Sun, was a harmless
old man who sj)ent a great ])ortion of his time between us and Mr. McMillan. We
entered into a contract witli that gentleman to alistain from giving the Indians any
sjjirituous liquors, to which liotli jiarties strictly adhered. Mr. Clarke, who was an
old tr.ider himself, liad often witnessed the baneful eflVcts of giving ardent spirits
to Indians, while he was in the service of the Northwest comiJany, at all whose es-
tablishments on the east side of the Rocky mountains it was an almost invariable
eustiini. . . ]{y tliis arrangement both parties saved themselves considerable
troiilile and e.xjxnse. and kept tlie i)oor natives in a state of blissful ignorance. In
other respects also we agreed very well with our o|)poneiit. .ind neither party
evinced any of the turbulent or lawless s))irit which gave so ferocious an aspect to
the o))|)osition of tile riv.al comiianies on the east side of the mountains.
"The great object of every Indian w.is to obtain a gun. Now a good gun could
not be had under twenty beaver skins; a few short ones we gave for fifteen: and
some idea of the jjrofit may be formed when I state that the wholesale ))riee of the
gun is about one jxtund seven shillings, while the .average value of twiiity beaver
skins is about twenty-five pounds. Two yards of cloth, which originally cost twelve
shillings, would gener.illy i)ring six or eight beavers, value eight or ten pounds;
and so on in |iropi)rli(in for other articles. But they were satisfied and we had no
cause to comj)lain.
"The Spokans are far su))iri(ir to the Indi.ins of the coast in eiranliness. but by
no nie.ms equ.il in this res])eet to the I'l.itlu-.ids. The women are good wives and
most atfectionati nioliurs; the old. cheerful and ei)mi)lete slaves to their families;
the young, lively .ind confiding; and whether married or single, free from the vice
of incontinence.
"Their village was situated at the ))oint formed by the junction of the two rivers.
Some houses were oblong, others conical, and were covered with ui.its or skins ac-
cording to the wealtl) of the ))ropri(tor. Their chief riches are their horses, wliieli
they generally obtain in barter from the Xez Perces, in return for the goods which
they obt/iin from us for their furs. Each man is therefore the founder of his own
fortune. .111(1 their riches or ])ov( rty are generally i)roportioned according to their
activitv <ir iiKJulrncc. Tin- vi<'c of gamliliiig. howcxcr. is prt\aleiit .•inioiig tiicui,
and some are such sl.aves to it that they freciueiitly lose all their horses.
"Tile sjiot where 'the rude foref.itlurs of the liainht sleeji' is about niiiiway be-
tween the village .■iii(i the fort, .iiid lias rathrr a |ii<'tur(s(|iic etVcet ;it a liistaiiee.
When a man dies several horses are killed, and the skins are attached to the ends of
long poles, which ari' planted in the gr.aves. The number of Iiorses sacrificed is
jiroportionrd to tin wialtli of the individu.il. Besides the horseskins, deer and
buffalo robes, leather .sliirts, blankets, pieces of blue, green and scarlet cloth, strips
of calico, moccasins, provisions, w.arlike weajions, etc,, are placed in and about the
cemetery; all of which they imagiiii will be more or less necessary for the deceased
in the world of spirits.
"As their lands are much infested by wolves, which destroy the foals, they can
not rear horses in such numbers as the Nez Perces, from whom they are obliged to
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 19
jjurehase tluni amiuallv. They never kill any for their own use, but felt no re-
pugnance to eat the flesh at our place."
Affairs were not altogether harmonious between the rival establishments that
first winter on the Spokane, for PiUet, a clerk of the Astor forces, fought a duel
with pistols with :\Iontour, a clerk of the Northwesters. They fired at six paces —
"both hits; one in the collar of the coat, and the other in the leg of the trousers.
Two of their men acted as seconds, and the tailor speedily healed their wounds."
Spokane House was the popular rendezvous for the different posts and detached
trading parties operating all over the Inland Empire. Many a gay gathering and
many a lively social diversion could the sentinel pines and downlooking mountains
narrate today if they but had the power of speech. The establishment boasted a
ball-r.)om, and there on -H-intry nights, to the strains of flute and fiddle, the vivacious
Frencli Canadians and more stolid young Scotch chaps trod a measure with the
copper-tinted belles of the Spokanes, the Nez Perces and other neighboring tribes.
Forgotten then, in the entrancement of Terpsichore, were their weary marches by
Held and forest and mountain trail ; their dismal bivouacs in winter snows or summer's
deluge. Loquacious Pierre, and mercurial Jean, and quick-tempered Louis cast away
their memories of dreadful toil by perilous portage, or snapped their fingers at the
thought of coming travail, when the breast-straps should cut the flesh as they tugged
at the lines of deep-ladened bateaux dancing on the swift waters of the Columbia,
the Spokane, the Flathead and the "Cootonai."
In fancy we may conjure back the stirring scene: the deep ball-room, lighted by
the great hearthfire and flaring flambeaux of pine knots; the Scotch gentlemen,
each in the tartan of his elan ; the Americans, decked out in some treasured piece of
bright colored raiment of the period, brought from distant New York, and the
French Canadians in jjlume and sash and gaily colored capote.
And what a contrast without, where the winter moon spread her cold beams on a
landscape of woody mountains and snowy plains, while the dark waters of the Spo-
kane went tearing to the mighty Oregon, and the greater river ran sullen to the sea.
It was a hard, wild life, and few who embraced it survived to see again the
pleasant landscapes of their boyhood homes, or hear on sunny Sabbath morning the
deep-toned bells of worshij) calling across the smiling fields.
"It is worthy of remark," observes Parker, who traversed this country in 1835,
'that comparatively few of all those who engage in the fur business about and west
of the Rocky mountains, ever return to their native land and their homes and friends.
Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla told me that to keep up their number of trappers and
hunters in the country west of the mountains, they were under the necessity of send-
ing out recruits annually, about one-third of the whole number. Captain W. has
said that of more than 200 who had been in his employment in the course of three
years, only between thirty and forty were known to be alive. From this data it
may be seen that the life of hunters in these far western . regions averages about
three years. And with these known facts, still hundreds and hundreds are willing
to engage in the hunter's life and expose themseUes to hardships, famine and death.
The estimate has been made from sources of correct information, that there are 9,000
white men in (he north and in the great west, engaged in the various department's of
trading, traj.jjing and hunting. This number includes Americans, Britons, French-
men and Russians."
20 SI'OKAM: AM) llll. IM.AM) IMI'IRK
Life at Okanogan offend none of the li\i ly (li\iT.sions tliat were tlu- acconipani-
uicnt of a winter sojourn at Spokane House. In a letter bj" McGillivray, a year
later to a friend at Spokane, we find a graphic pen picture of that dreary outpost of
the coui])any :
"Oakinagan, Feb., 181i. — This is a horribly dull place. Here I have been,
since you parted from us, perfectly solus. Mj- men, half Canadians and half Sand-
wich islanders. The library wretched, and no chance of m_v own books until next
year, when the Athabasca men cross the mountains. If you or my friends at Sjiokan
do not send me a few volumes I shall absolutely die of ennui.
"The Indians here are incontestably the most indolent rascals I ever met; and
I assure you it requires no small degree of authority, with the few men I have, to
keep them in order. Montignier left me on the twenty-third of December to proceed
to Mr. McDonald .at Kamloo))s. On his way he was attacked by the Indians at
Okanogan Lake, and robbed of a number of bis horses. Tiie natives in that quarter
seem to entertain no great friendship for us. as this is not their first attempt to
trespass on our good nature. My two Canadians were out iuinting at the period of
the robbery, and the whole of mj- household troops merclv consisted of Bonaparte.
Wasliington and Caesar (three natives of Hawaii). Great names, you will say; but
I nuist confess, tli.it much as I think of the two great moderns, and highly as I re-
spect the nuinory of the immortal Julius, among these thieving scoundrels 'a rose
by any other name would smell as sweet.' The snow is between two and three feet
deep, and my trio of Owyhee generals find a sensible difference between such
hy))erbor(an weather and the pleasing sunshine of their own tro])ical paradise.
i'oiir fellows! They are not adapted for these latitudes, and I heartily wish they
were at home in tiieir own sweet isl.-mds. and sporting in the 'l)lue sunnner ocean'
that surrounds them.
"1 have not as yet made a |),iek nl lir.-ivir. The la/y Indians won't work; and .is
for the emperor, president .ind dictator, they know ;is mucli .ilmiit trapping as the
monks of La Tra|)pe. I have hitherto principally subsisted on horseflesh. I can
not say it agrees with me, for it nearly ])ro(lueed a dysentery. I have h.ad plenty of
pork, rice, arrowroot, flour, taroroot. tea and coffee; no sugar. With such a variety
oi bonnes rhosrs you will say I ought not to complain; but w.mt of society has de-
stroyed my relish for luxuries, and the only articles I taste above par .are souchong
and molasses.
"\Miat a contrast between the manner I s])ent last year and this. In the first
wilh all llll pride of a newly-created snl)altern, occasionally fighting the Yankees,
() la mode ilii /xiii-i; and anon, spurting my silver wings before some admiring
pai/sainif .along the frontiers. Then what a glorious winter in Montreal, with cap-
tured .lonatiians, trium])hant IJritons, .astonished Indians, gaping htibitatits, agitated
beauties, b.iUs, routs, dinners, suppers; parades, drums heating; colors flying, with
all the other 'jiride, ])omp and circumstance of glorious war.' But 'Othello's occu-
pation's gone,' and here 1 am. with .a shivering guard ol poor islanders, buried in
snow, sipping molasses, smoking tobacco, and masticating horseflesh. Hut I ,im sick
of the contrast !"
Certainly a \i\i(i one, .and lu.ule by a gentleman of i vident culture and literary
alt.aiiniieiit.
CHAPTER III
BRITISH FLAG SUPPLANTS THE STARS AND STRIPES
TAKING THE FURS DOWN THE COLUMBIA INDIAN THIEF HANGED AT MOUTH OF
PALOUSE GREAT BRITAIN AND AMERICA AT WAR ASTOR BETRAYED BY HIS PART-
NERS AT ASTORIA HIS GREAT ENTERPRISE RUINED BRITISH SEIZE ASTORIA EXPE-
DITION MASSACRED ON HEADWATERS OF THE SNAKE REMARKABLE ESCAPE OF PIERRE
DORIONS SgUAW.
Ay, tear her tattered ensign down !
Long has it waved on high.
And many an eye has danced to see
That banner in the sky.
— Oliver Wendell Holmes.
WITH the coming of spring. ISl.*?. Spokane House became a scene of lively
preparation for the springtime brigade down the Columbia to Astoria,
or Fort George as it was soon to become by the fortunes of war, and
the stars and stripes to be supplanted by the British flag. Leaving poor Pillet,
who. between his accidental shooting at the Cascades, his duel on the Spokane
and otlier minor untoward experiences was evidently in an unhappy frame of mind,
to keep guard on the Spokane with four assistants, the brigade set out on the
25th of !May for the mouth of the Columbia. It had twenty-eight horses
packed heavy with the season's catch, and reached Snake river at the mouth of the
Palousf, or Pavilion river as it then was called by the French, on the thirtieth of
May. Here the canoes were found in safety, barring a few nails which the Indians
iiad extracted for their own needs, and while the brigade lay there to await repairs,
a tragic incident occurred that was to lead, as we shall later learn, to a far more
tragic denouement.
During tlie night a thief or thieves had entered the tent in which Mr. Clarke
slept, and stole from his (farde-vln a valuable silver goblet. Hastily summoning the
Indians of the village, Clarke told them that he had overlooked ]irevious thefts on
tile occasion of his coming into their country, believing that his indulgence then
would win better treatment in future; but that he was mistaken, for his lenience then
iiad led to tliis bolder theft, and he saw that he must now deal with them in a more
resolute manner. He accordingly announced that if the stolen property were re-
turned he would ])ardi)n the offender, but if not, he should hang the thief if he could
find him.
21
22 SI'OK.W'K AM) 'llll- INI. AM) I'.MI'IKK
'I'lu- ciiii-f and olluTs expressed a willingness to aid in tiie recovery of the stolen
articUs, but the day passed with no results. That night a watch was set, and an
Indian detected in the act of entering one of the tents. \\'hen discovered he fled to
a eaiioe, l)ut was seized as he was stepping into it. .\n .ilarui was given, the whole
camp was soon routed from their slumhers, and a search showed that several valuable
articles were missing, most of which were found in the bottom of tiie canoe. The
thief refused to give any account of the other missing articles, and as he iiad been
remark.ibly well treated by the party, Clarke resolved, in view of this and the
aggravated nature of the robbery, to put his threat into execution. A gallows was
ordered erected, and the culprit's hands ,uid feel having been bound. Clarke assem-
bled all the Indians of the village and made a siieech, declaring tliat the prisoner
had violated his eonfidence, abused the rights of hospitality and committed an of-
fense for wliieii lie ought to suifer death.
The Indians .issent<-d to this projjosition and repudiated the prisoner, affirming
tii.it he did not bilong to their tribe, but was an outlaw from another village, and
thiv had all been .afr.iid of him. The thief offered the most violent resistance to his
execution, and sen-amed in a frightful ni.iuner as he w.as launched into eternity. An
aet'ount of the s\il)se(iuent ap))alling revenge taken by the relatives of this Indian
will .-ipiicar in another chapter.
dreat news aw.iited the .Spok.ine brig.ide on its .arrival, June 11, 1813, at As-
tori.i. "We found all our friends in good health, " says Ross Co.x, "but a total revolu-
tion bail taken place in the affairs of the company. Messrs. John George McTavish
and Joseph LaRocque of tiie Northwest company, with two canoes and si.xteen men,
had arrived a few days before us. From these gentlemen we learned, for the first
time, that war had been declared the year before between Great Britain and the
Tnited .Slates; .and that in conse(iuenee of the strict blockade of the American ports
bv British cruisers, no vessel would venture to proceed to our remote establishment
during the continuation of hostilities; added to which, a trading vessel which had
touclud at the Columbia in the early jjart of the spring, had informed our people
th.at the ship Beaver was blocked \i]) in Canton."
Himself a British subject, and holding friendly feelings towards the .Northwest-
ers, Cox states lightly .and defends a transaction th.at at best was shameful enough
— a too ready betrayal by old Northwesters in Mr. Astor's service, of his interests
and ))ro])erty into the hands of their former masters. We quote Cox's version:
"These iinlueky and unexpected circumstances, joiuiil to the impossibility of sus-
l.aining ourselves .another year in the country without fresh supplies, induced our
proprietory to enter into negoti.ations with Mr. MeT.a\ish. who bad been •■uitliorized
b\- till- .Norlliuisl (•(iiiip.iii\- to tri-.il with lliiiii. In .i few w-.-eks .an .iinie.ibli- .irr.-inge-
ninil w.as ui.ade, by wlii<'li Mr. Me'l'avisb .agreed to |)iireli.a-.r .ill the furs, mer-
eh.mdise. ))rovisions, etc.. of mir emnpany at .a eert.ain valu.ition. stipul.ating to
l)rovide ,a safe i)nssage back to the United States, cither by sea or across the eonti-
uciil. lor Midi inniilirrs of it ;is chose to return, .iiid ,i( Ibr s.anu' time olVering to
those who should wish to join the Northwest iciin|).iriy and rciii.iiii in the country
the same terms as if thev had originally been members ot tli.it eoiiip.my. .Messrs.
Ross Mcl-eiiiioii .and I took .adv .iiit.agc of tlirsc librr.al jiropos.als. .and some tiiiii-
.afli r Mr. Duiir.iii MeDoiig.al. one of the directors, .also joiruil the Northwest.
SPOKAXE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 23
The Americans, of course, preferred returning to their own country, as also did Mr.
Gabriel Francliere and a few other Canadian clerks."
The phrase, "to their own country," has now a half humorous ring, but there
was no humor to the situation then. The Americans were down and out, their occu-
pany of the Columbia River country had ended in failure, and it was known that a
British war vessel was sailing to these shores to capture Astoria, pull down the
American flag and take possession of the country for the British empire.
Gabriel Franchere, has left, in his "Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest
Coast of America," a harsher rejiort of the perfidy of McDougal and other agents
of .Mr. Astor. The Astorians were surprised one day, late in the autumn of 181"2,
by the appearance of two canoes, bearing the British flag, and having between them
a third canoe flying the American colors. These British canoes brought J. G. Mc-
Tavish and Angus Bethune of the Northwest couijiany, the vanguard to a flotilla of
eight canoes loaded with furs under the conduct of John Stuart .and McMillan. The
\merican canoe bore a small party of Astorians, who had nut the Northwesters
near the Cascades, and on learning the news brought by them, had returned to the
mouth of tlie Columbia.
McTavish delivered to MeDougal a letter addressed to the latter by Angus
Shaw, his uncle, one of the partners of the Northwest company, advising him that
the ship Isaac Todd, bearing letters of marque, had sailed from London in March
under convoy of the British frigate Phoebe, with orders from the government to seize
the American establishment at Astoria, which had been misrepresented to the admi-
ralty as an important colony founded by the government of the United States.
A little later the eight canoes came into the offing and the Northwesters, to the
number of seventy-five men, went into camp on the beach near the Astor fort. Here
was a hostile expedition, with confessed designs against the Astoria enterprise, but
McDougal, Mr. Astor 's agent on the ground, and bound by every obligation of fidel-
ity and decency to guard his great trust, received it in friendship and even benevo-
lence, for the Northwesters were destitute of provisions and were supplied from Mr.
Astor's stores while awaiting the expected arrival of a British war ship.
The upshot of the negotiations that followed was the sale of the vast Astor in-
terests to the rival institution at a price not exceeding one-third of its true value.
"It was thus," lamented Franchere, "that after having passed the seas and suf-
fered all sorts of fatigues and privations, I lost in a moment all my hopes of fortune.
I could not help remarking that we had no right to expect such treatment on the part
of the British government, after the assurances we had received from ]Mr. .Jackson,
his majesty's charge d'affaires, previously to our departure from New York. But as
I have just intimated, the agents of the Northwest company had exaggerated the
importance of tlie factory in the eyes of the British ministry; for if the latter had
known what it really was — a mere trading post — and that nothing but the rivalry of
the fur traders of the Northwest company was interested in its destruction, they
Would never have taken umbrage at it, or at least would have never sent a maritime
ex))edition to destroy it."
The frigate Phoebe failed to put in appearance, but in her stead the British
sloop-of-war Raccoon arrived on November .SO. When first sighted, the North-
westers, now in possession of Astoria, were uncertain as to her nationality, and a
fear arose that she might bear Auuriean arms. Thev met this daim-er. thi)U"li. with
24 SI'OK.Wl-, AM) Till: INLAND I'.MIMRE
a very different spirit and resolution from that wliich iiad been exhibited by Mc-
Dougal when facing tile ])ossil)ility of an aiipearanee of a British vessel. McDougal
went down the bay in a sniail boat, under instructions to ascertain the nationality of
the newcomer, and to represent himself either as an American or a British subject,
according to the flag that she might be found to fly. Meanwhile the precious furs
stored .-it the fort were hastily loaded into canoes and hurried up the river to a hiding
place in the thickets of a little entering stream.
"I'rom the account given in this chapter," says I'r.ineliere, "the reader will see
with wli.it facility the establishment of the Pacific Fur company could have escaped
capture by tin British force. It was only necessary to get rid of the land party of
the Xorthwest company — who were completely in our power — then remove our ef-
fects uj) the river on some small stream and await the result. The sloop-of-war ar-
rived, it is true; but as, in the case I suppose, she would have found nothing, she
would have left after setting fire to our deserted houses. None of their boats would
have dared follow us, even if the Indians had betrayed to them our lurking place.
Those at the head of affairs had their own fortunes to seek, and thought it more
for their interest, doubtless, to act as they did, but that will not clear them in the
eyes of the world, and the charge of treason to Mr. Astor's interests will always be
attached to their acts."
It seems improbable that the Indians would have betrayed the hiding ])laee of
the Astorians, if this ex])edient had been adopted. McDougal had taken as wife a
daughter of Chirf Coiieoiuiy, .-iiid the aged one-eyed chieftain seems to have been
unable to fatiioiii the (|uiek shiftiness of his son-in-law; for when the Raccoon ap-
peared in the bay, Concomly (piieklv assembled his warriors, marched them into the
presence of liis soii-iti-law. and niver doubting that McDougal was loyal to his trust,
\i)lunteere(l to aid him in battle against the invader. He proposed that he should
station his warriors in the thickets on shore, and when the "King George men" at-
tempted a landing iu- would (i|i( ii a hot fire on them from cover. When McDougal
declined this hostile alliance, the old ciiief shook his head in sadness and disgust,
and the assurances of his son-in-law, that the war vessel was bringing friends, was
too iiuieh for the simple intcllcet of tin- old father-in-law.
When Captain Black, having brought the Haeeoon to anchor in front of the es-
tablishment, saw the |)riniilive appearance of the fort, lie could scarcely believe his
eyes. He had been h d to believe that tin- Anurie-iii^ liiil luiilt llirre a great and
wealthv establishment, .■iiu! .ill tliniugli tlic long \oyage lie and liis I'c How oltieers had
indulged .anticipations oi tin- vieli |iri/,i- iiKniiy llial uduhl ecinu to tlieui with the fall
of Astoria. He in<|uired it llni-i wn-r iiol I n-M( r .inil iiiovc pretentious buildings
somewhirc iji Ihr \ieiiiit\'. anil win ii Icilil llial In liad srcii the entire estalilislinu lit,
cried out :
"Js this the lurl aliout wliieli I li.nc lirard so inueli talking.^ D — n me. but I'd
Iratter ii down in two liours with a tour |iiniiider !"
And when he learned of the eaniiy Ir.aiis.ietion by which the rich furs of the
enemy had ])assed to a British subject, and his last expectation of jirizc money
went vanishing into thin air, he grew furinusly .angry, and dem.-iiided the taking of
an inventory of the propi riy piireliasnl of tin- Anieric.-ins, "with a view to ulterior
m< asures in I'.nglaiid for tin rico\( ry id tin v.ilue from the Northwest company."
(ir,i> TU/HKTrnrsE of Hudson's bay co.mpany ox marcus flat,
STEVEXS COUNTY, WASHINGTON
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 25
But as lie cooled off the ludicrousness of the affair evidenth' dawned on his sense of
humor, for the "ulterior measures" were never taken.
Less than if iO.OOO was allowed b}' the Northwest company for furs worth in
excess of .$100,000, and goods and merchandise intended for the Indian trade were
taken over at less than a third of their true value. The following estimate was made
of the furs on hand and the prices paid for them compared with their real value :
17,705 lbs. beaver parchment, valued at.$ 2.00 worth $ 5.00
165 old coat beaver, valued at 1.66 worth 3.50
907 land otter, valued at 50 worth 5.00
68 sea otter, valued at 12.00 worth $45 to 60.00
30 sea otter, valued at 5.00 worth 25.00
Nothing was allowed for 179 mink skins worth 50 cents each; twenty-two rac-
coons, worth 10 cents each; twenty-eight lynx, worth $2 each; eighteen fox, worth
$1 each; one hundred and six fox, worth .$1.50 each; seventy-one black bear, worth
$4 each; and sixteen grizzly bear, worth $10 each.
But the deed was done, and could not be cured by repining or reproaches; and
with Astoria also went Spokane House, Okanogan and the other trading posts of
the Astor company. Captain Black of the sloop-of-war took possession of Astoria
in the name of his Britannic Majesty, floated the British flag above it, and re-
christened the place "Fort George." As this official act carried with it a claim to all
the territory in possession of British subjects, Spokane passed under the British
ensign, and continued British territory till, the war ended, by the treaty of Ghent
the contracting powers agreed to restore the status ante-bellum, and surrendered
each the territory it had acquired by conquest or occupation from the opposing
power, when Astoria was theoretically returned to the United States, although the
Northwest company remained there in undisputed possession for a number of years.
Let us now take up the sequel to Mr. Clarke's ill-advised hanging of the Indian
thief at the mouth of the Palouse river.
A few months subsequent to this event, .John Reed, a warm-hearted old Irish-
man, was sent with a party to trap beaver in the country around the upper reaches
of Snake river, consisting of four Canadians, Giles Le Clerc, Francois Landry, Jean
Baptistc Turcot, and Andre La Chappelle, and two half breed hunters, Pierre Dorion
and Pierre Delaunay. Pierre Dorion was a son of that French Dorion who had
accompanied Lewis and Clark across the continent. Dorion ju-re had taken a Sioux
wife, and the product of that alliance was a numerous progeny as wild and adventu-
rous as the wild west had ever yielded. It is narrated that the Dorion family were
participants in numerous drunken debauches, and that on one of these occasions,
the son Pierre engaged in a rough and tumble fight on the cabin floor with his worthy
parent, and in a drunken rage was just in the act of scalping the author of his being,
when the elder Dorion cried out: "Oh, my son, my son. Don't do that. You are
too honorable to take your father's scalp!" An appeal which Pierre could not resist.
When Wilson P. Hunt, who had been entrusted with the leadership in 1810 of
Mr. Aster's overland expedition from Montreal to the Columbia, was strengthening
his party at St. Louis, he employed Pierre Dorion as interpreter, and with Pierre
on that frightful journey came his squaw and their two children. Mr. Hunt's party
20 SI'OK.WK AM) 'I'lli: IMAM) I'M I' I li I',
took eleven montli-- to traverse the vast expanse between nortlierii Missouri and the
nioutii of the Coliiiultia, suffered tlie loss of several members by drowning and desti-
tution, and experienced hardships, dangers and sufferings far greater than those en-
countered by Lewis and Clark. Hut through them all the Dorions came unscathed,
Madame Dorion, in fact increasing the party by one en route; and when Reed was
dispatched on this detached hunting trip, along went Pierre and his heroic squaw.
Irving has treated the events that followed with a graphic pen:
"In the course of the autumn, Reed lost one man, Landry, by death. Auutlar
one, I'ierre Uelaunay, who was of a sullen, perverse disposition, left him in a moody
fit, and was never heard of afterward. The number of his party was not, however,
reduced by these losses, as three luuitirs, Robinson, Hoback and Rezner, had joined it.
"Reed now built a house nii tlu .Snake river for their winter quarters; which
being completed, the party set about trapping. Rezner, Le Clerc and Pierre Dorion
went about five days' journey from tlir wintering house, to a part of the country
well stocked with beaver. Here tin y put up a hut and proceeded to trap with great
success. While the men were out hunting, Pierre Dorion's wife remained at home to
dress the skins and jirepare the meals. She was thus employed one evening about
the beginning of .January, cooking the suiiper of the hunters, when she heard foot-
steps, and Le Clerc staggered. l)ale and bleeding, into the hut. II< iiilormed her
that a party of savages had surprised them while at their traps, and had killed
Rezner and her husband. lie had liarely strength left to give this information when
he sank ii|)nn the grouiici.
"The ))()i)r woni.in saw that tin- only chance for life was insUmt ilighl. With
gre.it diliieulty she caught two of the horses belonging to the party. Then collecting
her clothes and a sni.ill quantity of beaver meat and dried salmon, she packed them
upon one of the liorses .and heliJed the wounded man to mount upon it. On the other
horse she mounted with her two children, and hurried away from this dangerous
neighborhood, directing her Higlit to .Mr. Reed's establishment. On the third day
.she descried a number of Indians on horseback proceeding in an easterly direction.
She innnediatelv dismounted with her children, .and heljjed Le Clerc to dismount,
and .ill eonec.ilid themselves. I'ortunately tluy escijud the sharp eyes of the
sav.ages, but liad to proceed with the utmost caution. That night tliey slept without
(ire or water; she managed to kee]) her children warm in her .inns, but before
morning poor Le Clerc died.
"\\'ith the dawn of day the resolute woman pursued her course, .and on the fourtii
dax r( aehed the house of Mr. Reed. It was deserted, and all round were marks of
blood and signs of a furious massacre. Not doubling tli.il Mr. Heed anil all his
))artv had fallen victims, she turiud in fresii horror from the spot. I'or two d.iys
she contiinied luirrving forward, re.idy to sink for want of food, but more solicitous
.about hir eliililrrii lli.wi lursrll'. .\t lii)i;th siir naclh il ;i range of the Rocky moun-
tains, near the u|)per |).irl ol the \\ .ilia \\ all.i ri\c r. Here she chose a wild, lonely
ravine as her ))lace of winter ri fiigc.
".Shr liiil fortunately a buffalo robe and three deerskins; of these, and of pine
bark .and eed.ir branches, she constructed a rude wigwam, which she pitched beside
a mountain spring. Having no other food, she killed the two horses and smoked
Ihr (lish. The skins aided to cover her hut. Here she dragged out the winter with
no other eomiiany than her two ehildrcii. Toward the middle of March lier provi-
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 27
sions were nearly exhausted. She therefore packed up the remainder, slung it on
her back, and, with her lielpless little ones, set out again on lier wanderings. Cross-
ing the ridge of mountains, she descended to the banks of the Walla Walla, and
kept along them until she arrived where that river throws itself into the Columbia.
She was liospitably received and entertained by the Walla Wallas, and had been
nearly two weeks among them when two canoes ])assed."
These ]iroved to contain a J^arty from Astoria, ascending the Columljia to Fort
Okanogan, the occujiants of which were surprised by Iiearing a cliildisli voice cry
out in French :
"An-ete: done! arretez done!" (Stop there, stop there!) It was one of Do-
rion's children, joyously liailing friends; and it is jjleasing to add that the party
generously rewarded the friendly Walla Wallas for tlieir kind treatment of the
brave widow and her children.
Although the supposition was never actually verified, it was believed bv the
Astorians that the Reed jiarty were massacred by relatives of the Indian hanged at
the mouth of the Palouse. It was known that they were greatly enraged by that
high-handed act of vengeance, and friendly Indians had frequently warned the tra-
ders that tlie family and friends of the victim were threatening retaliation.
CHAPTER IV
ODD CHARACTERS AT SPOKANE HOUSE
INDIANS PASSIONATELY FOND OF TOBACCO HALCYON DAYS FOR THE SPOKANES A
FIERY HIGHLAND SCOT TAKING AN INDIAN WIFE WAR NARROWLY' AVERTED
FLATHEAD GIRLS SCORN WHITE SUITORS OTHERS NOT SO FASTIDIOUS GARDENS
PLANTED ON THE SPOKANE STRANGE INDIAN CHIEF NEAR LOON LAKE REMARK-
ABLE CAREER OF A FREE TRADER.
The pipe, with solemn interposing puff.
Makes half a sentence at a time enough.
The dozing sages drop the drowsy strain,
Then pause .and puff — and speak, and pause again.
— Cowper.
AFFAIRS at Spokane House were little altered by the change of ownership,
novernment and flag. The brigades came and the brigades went between the
Spokane and the Columbia. The voyageurs tugged at the cordelle quite as
hard as before, and the thieving Wishram Indians at the Cascades grew even more
thievish, and attacked with growing audacity the various parties as they made the
arduous portage. The officers and their men fared as before on dried salmon, horse
meat, and in a pinch now and then, on stewed dog.
Occasionally supplies ran low at Spokane House, and the Indians watched
longingly for the coming of the brigade with new stocks of tobacco and ammunition.
On one occasion, these commodities were entirely lacking for two months, and when
the supplies finally arrived there was great rejoicing of savage hearts. "The whole
tribe assembled round the fort and viewed with joy the kegs of powder and the bales
of tobacco as tluy were unloaded from the horses," says Cox. "A large
circle was formed in tin- courtyard, into the center of which we entered, and having
lit the friendly calumet, smoked a few rounds to celebrate the meeting. A quantity
of tobacco was then presented to each man, and the cliief delivered an oration."
"My heart ts glad to see you," he said; "my heart is glad to see 3'ou. We were
a long- time very hungry for tobacco, and some of our young men said vou wonld
never come back. Tiny were angry and said to me, "fhe white men made us love
tobacco almost as much as we love our children, and now we are starving for it.
They brought us their wonderful guns, which we traded from them; we threw by
our arrows as useless, because we knew they were not so strong to kill the deer as
the guns: and now we are idle with our guns, as the white men have no fire-powder
29
30 SI'OkAM. AM) llll, IM.AM) KMI'IRK
or balls to give us, uiul we liavt- hrokiii our arrows and almost forgotten how to use
tlieni. The white men are very bad and have deceived us.' But I spoke to tlienj and
I said, 'You are fools; you have no patience. The white men's big canoes are a long
time coming over the great lake that divides their country from ours. They told me
on going away that they would come back, and I know they would not tell lies.' "
Turning, then, to the assembled Indians, he continued: "Did I not tell you tli.it
the wiiite men would not tell liisr You arc fools, great fools, and have no ])atienee.
Let us now show our joy at meeting our friends; and tomorrow let all our hunters
go iuto the ))lains, and upon the hills, and kill birds and dier for the good white
UllU."
The red hunters kil)t llu ir ))romise, and for several weeks following the tables
at Spokane House were plentifully supplied with grouse, wild geese and ducks.
These were halcyon times for the Spokanes. The fur traders had brought them
many of the good things of civilization, and as yet few of its curses, liy a compact,
faithfully kept, between tin- rival establishments, intoxicants were withheld from
these children of the forests and the plains: the white man had not yet appropriated
their lands, nor driven the edible game from the country. They had brought more
comfortable raiment, beautiful ornaments of glass and brass, knives, axes and
hatchets, the luxurv of tobacco and many good things to eat. A market had been
made for the Indians' furs, and with the goods exchanged for these peltries, the
Spokanes bought buHalo robrs froui the tribes to the east, and many horses from
their neighbors, tlu' Xez I'erees. I roni comparative poverty they had been lifted
into )>rosperitv. .Small woiidir then. Ibat tliey idolized these "good white men,"
and dwelt with llicui in lo\-e and friendslii]). And small wonder too. tiiat in after
years, when the old men recalled the happy, prosperous years before General \Vriglit
swept into their country with "hoof and with steel" and destroyed their great bands
of horses and burned their granari<s and storehouses, "the tears ran down their
cheeks like rain."
One of the odd characters at Sjwkane House was McDonald, a tall, red headed
Scot from the Higiilands. Until a youth he had heard no other tongue than Gaelic,
lull Ihc educational ad\antagis of (ilasgow lia<l given him. at one time, a pretty
good knowledge of pure English. Then he drifted across the water to Canada,
and a(l(l( (I I'rcneh to his voealiul iiy. ^'ears of experience on the frontier had
tauglil iiim scvn-al ludiari dialects, and now at Spokane House be had fallen into a
habit of mixing his Ihougbts "in a most strange and ludicrous mcldiiijc." When
angry he would swc.ar in half ;i dozen tongues at once. His great height of six feet
four, broad shipulders, bushy whiskers, and b>iig red locks that had not felt the
.scissors for v^ars. gave him .1 wild and urKoutli a|)pearance, though he was at heart
good-natured and inotlcusive, easily thrown into a passion and as easily mollified.
He had ae(|uired ;i S))ok;ine wife and two children, and passed most of his time
among his wifi's rilatives, by whom and liy tin Indians generally he was respected
and beloved.
One day, just as the men were sitting down to diinier. a workman, followed by
a native, burst into the dining room and urged llie coui]iany to hasten to the village
and prevent Moodsbcd. as McDonald was about to fight a duel with one of the
chiefs. 'I'hcv ran to tbr Indian ( Mcainpment. wbrrc McDonald was found, shifting
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 31
a shotgun from one hand to the other, while he urged the chief to come on and light.
"You rascal, you dog, you toad!" he shouted; "will you fight?"
"I will," the chief replied in temperate tones, "but you're a foolish man. A
chief should not be passionate. I always thought the white chiefs were men."
"I want none of your jaw. 1 say you cheated me. You're a dog! Will you
fight?"
"You are not wise," answered the chief. "You get angry like a woman; but I
will fight. Let us go to the woods. Are you ready?"
"Why, you d — d rascal," retorted McDonald, "what do you mean? I'll fight you
here. Take your distance like a brave man, face to face, and we'll draw lots for the
first shot, or fire together, whichever you please."
"You are a greater fool than I thought you were," remarked the ])lacid Indian;
"whoever heard of a wise warrior standing before his enemy's gun to be shot at like
a dog. No one but a fool of a white man would do that."
"What do vou mean?" asked McDonald; "what way do you want to fight?"
"The way that all red warriors fight: Let us take our gmis and go into the
woods ; you get behind one tree, and I will stand behind another, and then we shall
see who w'ill shoot the other first."
"You are afraid, and you are a coward."
"I'm not afraid, and you are a fool. "
"Come on then; d — n my eyes if I care! Here's at you your own way."
They were starting for the trees when the men interfered, had the combatants
disarmed, and induced the wild Scot to return to the fort.
For sheer love of fighting McDonald occasionally joined the Flatheads in their
warlike excursions into the country of the Blackfeet, on the eastern slopes of the
Rock\- mountains. The following anecdote, which was related to Cox, by several
Indians, will show his steady courage and reckless disregard of danger:
In the summer of 1812, at the buffalo plains, they fell in with a strong party of
Blackfeet. and a severe contest followed. McDonald was to be seen in every direc-
tion, in the hottest of the fire, cheering and animating his friends; and they at
length succeeded in driving the Blackfeet to take shelter in a thick cluster of trees,
from whence they kept up a constant and galling fire on the Flatheads, by which a
few were killed and several wounded. In vain he exerted all his influence to induce
his friends to storm the trees and drive the enemy from his cover. The Flathead
mode of attack was extremely foolish, and productive of no benefit; for each warrior
advanced opposite the spot from which the Blackfeet fired, and after exchanging a
random shot into the trees, instantly galloped away.
^McDonald, vexed at this puerile method of fighting, offered to take the lead
himself to dislodge the enemy; but, with the exception of the war chief, they all re-
fused to join him. He therefore resolved to try the effect of example, and putting
his horse into a smart trot, rode opposite the place from whence the chief fire of the
Blackfeet proceeded. He then dismounted, took deliberate aim at the head of a
fellow which had just ])opped from behind a tree, and fired. The bullet entered the
Blackfoot's mouth and he fell. A shower of balls instantly whizzed about McDon-
ald and his horse; but he, undismayed, reloaded, while his friends besought him to
retire. He covered another in the same manner, who also fell, after whicli he calmly
remounted and galloped to his party uninjured. A prisoner who was subsequently
32 SI'OK.WF, AM) 'I'll K INLAND I.MIMUK
taken said tliat tlu- only two kilKil who had t.ik.n n fiigi- among the trees, were both
sliot in the head by the "big wliite chief," as they teriutd McDonald.
A few years later .McDonald suffered wounds in one of these forays against the
Blackfeet from which he n, V( r (luite recovered. A Inill.t brought him down, when
half a dozen .savages rushed upon him and began hacking iiis skull with their toma-
liawks. The sealping-knife was out, and poor McDonald would soon have been dis-
patched had not the war chief and several others of the Flathcads rushed to his re-
li.f. and. after killing three of the Blackfeet, rescncd tluir courageous ally.
Ill tlic- wiiilrr (if 181 1-1.) occurred an incidirit wliicli threatened, for a wliile. to
imjiair tiie friendly relations between the traders .md the Spokanes. One of the
junior clerks, grown weary of the single state, resolved to seek an Indian wife, and
engaged the interpreter to make inquiries in the village regarding the eligible list of
unmarried women. A comely damsel, 17 years of age, listened apjirovingly to the in-
terpreter's overtures, and the negotiations were successfully taken up with her
mother and brothers, her lath, r having died a few years previously. Blankets and
kettles were presented to her principal relatives, and beads, bawkbells and other
trifles dear to the Indian heart were distributed among the other members of the
community.
Then followed th, ih livery of the bride to her future lord and master of the
paleface race. Her iiiotlu r brought her to the gate of the fort about 9 o'clock in
the evening, and after ,in .ipathetic and raatter-of-faet i)arling. the young damsel
was delivered to one of the men's wives, called "the scourer," who thoroughly cleansed
her head and body of the paint and grease with which she had boii decorated ac-
cording to the savage idea of personal adornment. After these alilutiuiis. she was
passed along to the dressmaker, who cast aside her leathern chemise and decked
her out in softer raiment of civilization. "And the following morning, when she
appeared in her new habiliments," runs the chronicle, "we thought her one of the
most engaging females that we had previously seen of the Spokaiu- nation."
Vor several days everything went merry as a marriage bell, and the young
couple seemed devotedly attached to each other: but one afternoon the occujiants of
the fort were alarmed by the sudden appearance of a number of well mount.<l young
warriors, who galloped into the courtyard of the fort, armed "and ajiiianntly bent
on .serious business. The young bride, when her eye fell on the foremost horseman,
scented trouble and |iniiiiptly fbil tor refuge into the storeroom, where she con-
cealed herself.
Dismounting, the leader ot the liaiid (l.iuaiMlrd a eouneil with the principal
white chief, requesting, at the same time, that the other chiefs would ,ilso ajijjear
and listen to his complaint. These having assembled, he addressed them, in sub-
stance as follows:
"Three snows have passed away since the white men came from their own
c<iuiitrv to live among the Spokanes. When the Kvil .Spirit thought jiroper to dis-
li-(ss till white jieople by covering the water of the rivers with ice, so that liny eoiilii
not 'catch any fish, and sent snow over all th, iiiountains and jilains. by means
whereof their horses were nearly destroyed by wolves, -when their own hunters, in
fact, eo\ild not find an animal, diii Ihe Sj)okanes take .advantage ot their .alllietions ?
Did lh( y roll thnn of their horses like Sinapoil (San I'oil) dogs? Did they say,
111, whit, 111,11 an 11, ,w ]ioor .and starving; they are a great distance from their own
GKAND COULEE IN THE BIG BENJD
COUNTRY
Sketeheil liv artist with (iovernor Stevens
.f^'""
MAK('US WHITMAN'S GRAVE
Nopr Walla Walla
SITE OF THE ASTOl; TRAI)1X(; POST, ESTABLISH EI) IX ISll
OLD J-'ORT WALLA WALLA
Ou the Columbia
OLD K(_»RT OKANOGAN
FoiiTiileil ill Isll by Jnlm Jacob Astor.
Skc'tilie.l in the 'oOs by Governor
Stevens ' Expedition
I"HE NEW YORK
JPUauC UBRAkY
TiLOtN Ft.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 33
country and from any assistance, and we can easilj' take' all their goods from them,
and send them away naked and hungry? No, we never spoke or even thought of
such bad things. The white men came among us with confidence, and our hearts
were glad to see them; they paid us for our fish, our meat and our furs. We
thought thej' were all good people, and in particular their chiefs ; but I find we were
wrong in so thinking."
Here the native orator paused for a moment, and then, resuming, added: "My
relations and myself left the village several days ago for the purpose of hunting.
We returned home this morning. Their wives and their children leaped with joy
to meet tliem, and all their hearts were glad but mine. I went to my tepee and called
on my wife to come forth; but she did not appear. I was sorrowful and hungry,
and went into my brother's tepee, where I was told that she had gone away and
had become the wife of a white chief. She is now in your house. I come, therefore,
white men, to demand justice. I first require that my wife be delivered up to me.
She has acted like a dog, and I shall live no more with her ; but I shall punish her as
she deserves. And in the next place I expect, as you have been the cause of my
losing her, that you will give ample compensation for her loss."
The interpreter was directed to explain that the grievance of the injured hus-
band lay against the relatives of the woman, and not against the white people; that
if the young chief had been aware that she was married he would not have coveted
her or taken her to his lodge ; that he was willing to give her former lord reasonable
compensation for his loss, but he could not deliver her to him to be punished, and
would not surrender her unless the husband would agree not to hurt her.
The angry and jealous Indian refused to make any promise, and insisted on
the woman's restitution, but as the traders had reason to fear that her life would be
taken, they refused to yield.
The old chief next addressed the young Indian, and his persuasions induced
him to relinquish his claim on the young squaw, in consideration of a gmi, 100
rounds of ammunition, three blankets, two kettles, a spear, a dagger, ten fathoms of
tobacco and a quantity of smaller articles. In return for all this wealth, lie hound
himself never to injure the girl or annoy her or her new husband.
Notwithstanding these demands were considered exorbitant, the traders thought
it wise to accede to them rather than disturb the friendly relations which had
hitherto existed between them and the Spokanes.
After the Indian had been put in possession of his reward, the pipe of peace was
solemnlv smoked, perceiving which the object of all the controversy, knowing that
it signified her safety, came out from her place of concealment and walked boldly
by her former lord. No sign of recognition passed between them, "and neither
anger nor regret seemed to disturb the natural serenity of his cold and swarthy
countenance."
The interpreter here mentioned was none other than Pierre Michel, son of a
reputable Canadian by an Indian mother, and a fine fellow withal. He was held in
high esteem by the Flatheads, and like the big, red-headed McDonald, had accom-
panied this tribe on two of their war excursions against the Blackfeet, where he had
won great fame by his courage and marksmanship. Many a trader and voyageur had
aspired to an alliance matrimonial with these superior natives, but in every instance,
with the sole exception of young Michel, their overtures had been rejected. Cox,
34 Sl'OKAM-: AND llil. IMAM) KMPIRE
who passi'd tin- greater part of one winter anion>r tlie llatlieads. tlius describes the
success of tile interj)reter :
"Michel wanted a wifi-. and having gained the affections of a handsome girl
about lO years of age, and nieee to tile hereditary chieftain, he made a formal pro-
posal for her. A council w.-is thereupon called, at which her uncle presided, to take
Michel's offer into consideration. One yoiiMii warrior loved her ardently, and had
(ibt;iined .a jirevious |)roiiiise from her mother that she should be his. He, therefore,
with all his relations, strongly opposed her union with Pierre, and urged his own
claims, which h,i(l lieeii sanetioiied l>y Inr uHithrr. 'Pile w.ar-cliief asked him if she
had ever promised to heeome his wife, lie replied in the negative.
"The chief then addressed the council. ,ind ])artieularly the lover, in favor of
.Mieliel's suit, jiointiiig out the griat serviei s h<- had rendered the tribe by his bra-
very, and dwelling strongly on the ))()liey of uniting him more firmly to their interests
by assenting to the |)ro|)osed m.irriage. which, he said, would forever make him as
one of their brothers. His influence predominated, and the unsuccessful rival imme-
diately after shook hands with Michel, and told the young woman as he could not be
her husband, he ho]jed she would .ilw.iys reg.ird liini as her brother. This slie readily
promised to do. and so ended .ill (ip|)i)sitioii.
"The hapiiy Pierre preseiitxi a gun to her uncle, some cloth, calico and orna-
ments to her female relatives, with a iiistol ;ind handsome dagger to the defeated
suitor. He jiroceeded in the evening to the ehirf's lodge, wlure a miiiilur of her
friends had assembled to smoke. Here she received a lecture from the old m.iii,
her mother and ;i few other .-ineients on her duty as a wife and mother. Tluy
stronglv rxhorterl her to In- eh;iste, oludirnl. industrious and silent: and win n
.-ibseiit with her husband among otiu r tribes, .ilw.iys to stay at home .iiid lia\( no
intercourse with strange Indians.
".She then retired with the old women to an adjoining hut. where she uiuh rweiit
an ablution, .and b.ule .adieu to her leathern chemise, the ])l,ice of which was supjilied
with one of gingh.im, to which was added .1 calico and green cloth jietticoat, and .1
gown of blue cloth.
"After this was over she was conducted back to her uncle's lodge, when she re-
ceived some furthir advice as to her future conduct. A jirocession was then formed
bv the two chiefs, and sexcral warriors e.irrying blazing llambeaii\. to convey the
bride and her husb.and to the fort. They beg.an singing war-songs in praise of
Michel's br.avery. and of their triumiihs over the Blai'kfcet. -She was surrounded
bv a group of young .■iiul old wihik 11. sonic of whom were ri'joicing and others crying.
The men moved on tirst. in a slow, solemn p.iee, still chanting their warlike e]ii
thal.iniimn. The women followed ,it a short distance; .and when the whole party
:irri\i<l in front of the fori. IIkv foniicd a circle and commcncid d/ineing and
singing, which they kcjit u\> .-iboiit twenty minutes.
".After this the calumet of |>e;iee went round once more, and when the smoke of
the l.ast whilV h.ad dis;ippi;ired. Michel shook liaiuls with his l.ate rival, embraced
the chiefs, ,ind conducted his bride to his room. While 1 remained in IIk country
they livid h.i|)pily together."
()lh( r Indi.in women of the .Spokane country wen- not so f.istidious .as the I'l.it-
liead girls .about t.aking up domestic rel.itions with the white men. M.iny of them
were eager for such an alliance, I'onsidcring that it elevated them abo\e their
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 35
sisters and assured them a life of less drudgery and slavish obedience to lord and
master. Many a clerk, voyageur and even partner was pleased to take an Indian
woman to his bosom, and a gay life of extr;ivagance some of these Indian wives
led, to the everlasting impoverishment of their white consorts.
The first attempt at cultivation of the soil at Spokane House was made in the
spring of 1813, when turnips, potatoes, cabbage and other vegetables were planted
and returned a good crop. The quantity was increased the following spring, and by
tile autumn of 181 i the post boasted of an abundance of the good things of the
garden. . That year, also, the brigade from Astoria brought up a cock, three hens,
three goats and three hogs, to the great astonishment of the Indians, who called the
])oultry the wliite men's grouse, the goats the white men's deer, and the hogs the white
men's bear. They inquired if all such animals were tame in the white men's country,
and when answered in the affirmative, asked, if they should catch some wild animals
ill this country, could the white men domesticate them. They were told to make the
effort, and the traders would see what could be done, whereupon they brought in a
young bear, which was tied in the sty with the hogs and cared for by one of the Can-
adians, who taught him to dance, beg and play many tricks, much to the delight and
entertainment of the Indians.
In their trading expeditions the men from Spokane House roved widely over the
vast interior, and some of tlieir expeditions took them to the Kettle Falls of the Co-
lumbia, about 90 miles north of Spokane. As the basin at the foot of the falls there
resembled a iioiling caldron, the French gave it the designation "La Chnudiere," and
the Indians living in a nearby village, "Les Chandicn's." It was remarked that
"cleanliness could not be ranked among their virtues; their habitations are filthy in
the extreme, and tile surrounding atmosphere is impregnated with the most noxious
effluvia, produced by the jjiscatory otl'als whicli lie scattered about their dwellings."
About midway between Kettle Falls and Spokane House was found a small tribe
of some fifteen families, spe/iking a mixed dialect akin to both the Kettle Indians
and the Spokanes, but more closely ap)iroaehiiig the Sjiokane tongue. They were
inoffensive and received the white men with marked demonstrations of friendship.
Tlie chief of this tribe was described as an extraordinary being, the Indians alleging
that he belonged to the e])ieeiie gender. He wore a woman's dress, garnished with
beads, thimbles and small shells, and dressed his hair after the feminine fashion,
but possessed a rough beard and masculine voice. The visitors were informed that
he never gambled or associated with either sex, and by both men and women was
regarded with fear and awe, who looked ujioii him as a being supernatural. He was
usually attended by two or three children, to whom he ]3aid great attention, and it
was their chief occupation to eateli his horses, of which he possessed a great number,
collect provisions, make fires and cook his meals. When tliese wards attained a suit-
able age, he gave them a jiortion, secured their marriage and dismissed them, after
which he selected from the largest and poorest families the needed number of new
recruits, the parents offering no opposition and ajiparently being glad to have them
so well placed.
F'rom this strange chief the visitors purchased a number of horses, and found him
liberal and candid in his dealings. He entertained a profound scorn for falsehood,
and if one of his wards was detected in a lie, the chief promptly dismissed him from
his service, and under no consideration would he ever take back the delinquent.
36 SPOKANF. AND TIIK INLAND FMIMHF,
This chief seldom visited Spokane House, but wiien called upon by the traders
there, he exhibited a courteous hospitality wliicii. they declared, was superior to
anytliing they had ever met elsewhere.
"He was communicative and inquisitive and ridiculed the follies of the Indians
in the most philosophical manner. Of these he inveighed principally against gam-
bling, and tlieir improvident thoughtlessness in neglecting to provide, during the
summer and autumnal months, a sufficient quantity of dried salmon for the spring,
which is the season of scarcity, by wliieli neglect they have been fre(iucntly reduced
to starvation. He had heard of McDonald's quarrel with the Indian, which he
adduced as one of the bad effects of gambling and added, 'Had the Spokane been
foolish enough to follow the foolish custom of your countrymen, it is probable one
of you would have been killed about a foolish dispute arising out of a bad pracUce
which every wise man should avoid.' "
This strange but wise personage inquired minutely about the laws and customs
of the white people, their form of government, marriages and ideas of a future state,
and approved most of them as they were explained to him : Init he could not recon-
cile his judgment with the British law of iirimogeniture and tile custom of dueling.
The first he |)ronouneed gross injustice, aeeording there witii tile Anierieaii idea,
and as for the eode, he thought no one but a man lureft of his sense would resort
to a duel in settlement of real or fancied wrongs, an Dpiiiimi whieli li.is siiiee come
to be generally shared by civilized nations.
This strange being was a person of unusual thrift and jirevision. His lodge "
was completely covered with deerskins, and was quite waterproof; and the interior
was neat and orderly, the floor spread over with clean mats. In one corner were
stored his jirovisions, carefully preserved in leather and mat bags, and these he
shared with a generous hand in jjcriods of scarcity and destitution. "In fact he
wanted nothing that could add to his happiness or comfort," remarked an observer,
"and possessed a degree of calm contentment uncommon among savages, and which
would put to the blush much of the philosophical wisdom of civilized man."
We are given to a belief that the Spokane country is a new land, whose history
and development were not brought in touch with civilization until a generation ago;
and while this conception is in a measure true, it nevertheless is equally true that
a hundred years ago, men who had shared in ancient wars — in France, in Scotland,
in Canada and the American colonies — were here in commerce and adventure, and
looked out upon the valleys, the mountains and the waters that form <nir phasing
])rospect of today.
Of these was Jacques Hoole, who, at the advanced age of 90, was still active
as a "free trader" in the regions aroinid Sjjokane House, and bartered here tile
furs taken by his skill, industry and prowess. He was a native of I'r.ince. and
when a youth served in the French army. He fought on the fatal field ol Culioden.
nearlv 170 years ago, and was there wounded and taken jirisoner. After an ex-
change of prisoners he was sent to Canada, was present when the noble Wolfe
suffered his death wound on the plains of Abraham, and helped to carry the Mar-
quis de Montcalm into Queliec after he had received his death wound.
Upon tlie confjuest of Canada by the British, Jacques retired from tiie I'rencli
army, married and took to farming; but on the breaking out of the war of the revo-
lution, he left till- |iloiigli .•uul enlisted with the liriti'^li anus, and from a wound
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 37
suffered at that period he carried in his old age a slight lameness that was percep-
tible in his long tramps by these western woods and waters.
After the revolution, troubles fell thick on the head of the old veteran. The
patriot forces had destroyed his farm, his children were disobedient and his wife
faithless, and he sought surcease from his sorrows in the wild life of a free trapper
in the remote northwest. Even to the hour of his tragic death he retained much of
the elasticity and all of the sprightly temperament of his youth and the character-
istic volatility of the French. By the Canadians he was held in high respect, and
their daily salutation of "Bon jour, pere," was always acknowledged by a bow and
a responding "3/prri, merci, mon fils." ("Good morning, father;" "Thanks, thanks,
my son.")
While trapping beaver, in a wild and sequestered valley on the western slopes
of the Rocky mountains, he was surprised and slain by a predatory band of Black-
feet. His body was found by some friendly Flatheads, close by a beaver-dam.
They had fired a bullet through his head, and in accordance with their inhuman
custom had torn the few remaining white hairs away with the scalp. His clothes
were left upon him, but his horses, traps and arms had been appropriated by his
slavers.
CHAPTER V
TRAVEL BETWEEN SPOKANE AND ASTORIA
NAVIGATING THE COLUMBIA A CENTURY AGO FRENCH AND IROQUOIS VOYAGEUBS
HANGING OVER THE VAST INTERIOR MELONS AND CUCUMBERS GROWN AT SPOKANE
THE GRAND COULEE INDIAN METHOD OF HUNTING DEER HORSE-RACING IN SPO-
KANE VALLEY DELIGHTFUL TIMES IN 1 8 1 Z) ICE-BOUND ON THE COLUMBIA
SHOCKING TRAGEDY ON THE UPPER RIVER VICTIMS RESORT TO CANNIBALISM
NORTHWEST COMPANY ABSORBED BY ITS HUDSON's BAY RIVAL.
IX TRANSPORTING supplies from Astoria to Spokane, or furs from this post
to tlie lower Coluiiihia, tlie brigades resorted in jjart to navigation and in ])art
to pack-trains, tlie sliarj) and foaming descent of the SjJokane river between tile
trading post and the Columbia making impossible the use of canoes and bateaux at
this end of the voj'age.
A more inspiring sight it would be difficult to imagine than the passing, on some
bright day of summer, of one of these brigades as it was swept swiftly along by
the mightv current of the Columbia. One of the larger canoes or bateaux would
be manned by a crew of eigiit or even a dozen motley voi/ageurs. These, with the
Astor company and the Northwesters, were usually French Canadians, half breeds
or Iroquois Indians; lint with the later coming of the Hudson's Bay eom))any and
its absorption of the Northwest, a number of Orkney island men were brought into
the country. The positions which called for the greatest skill and dexterity were
in bow and stern, and these men were known respectively as foreman and steersman;
the others as middlemen.
The Freneii Canadians were a joyous, kindly-hearted lot, and it was a partieu-
l/iriy dark and depressing day when their spirits flagged or the rough music of their
boat songs (the chansons Vavirons^ were not heard rolling across the water and
echoing back from clitf and mountain-side. When engaged in the liard service of
working these brigades against wind and current, or portaging around the many
obstructions in the stream, these voyat/eiirs were most voracious eaters. Incredible
statements are made of their gastronomic capacity; their daily allowance, it is
said, was ten pounds of meat to the man. or eight pounds if the ration were free
of bone. Allowance should be made, however, for the fact that they had neither
bread nor vegetables, and for weeks at a time tlieir sole subsistence was meat, soup
.'ind occasionally tea.
Some of the expeditions to the interior would ])roeeed in mass to the post at
the mouth of the Okanogan, and there break u)) into smaller expeditions to Spokane
39
40 Sl'OKAM. AND Till', IM.AM) I'.MI'lUi:
House, to the Kettle f:ilU ot Hie ( 'iiliiiiilii:i. nr [n rli.-ips even t(i the liiglier reaches
of tlie Cohiinliia licirderiiij; on tlie Arrow lakes; and once a year a brigade worked
its way heyinul tiu Arrow lakes to tlic Canoe river. ;ind tiience over the Rocky
mountains to the he.idwaters of the Athabasca, down which stream they glided on
their way to the great rendezvous of Fort William.
Occasionally a detachment would leave the main body at the confluence of the
Columbia and tlic Snake, to ascend the latter stream to outposts in the Clearwater
regions.
At other times the Spokane brigade would leave the Columbia torty uiiles above
the mouth of the Snake, transferring the canoe lading to pack-train, and then march
across the great ])lains to the Spokane. Rejiorting one of these exi)editions. Cox
leaves an interesting description of one of the deep coulees of the Big Bend coun-
try, obviously Moses or Grand.
"During this journey, which occupied five or six days, we did not meet a single
native; and with the exception of a few stunted red cedar trees, and some juniper,
birch and willow, the country was divested of wood. Early on the morning of
the second day we entered a remarkable ravine, with high, bold and rocky sides,
through which we rode upwards of twenty miles, when we were obliged to leave it
in order to follow our direct course. The soil in this ravine is a fine, whitish col-
ored clay, firm and hard. There is little vegetation except on the sides, where
clusters of willow and choke-cherry are occasionally met with. While we rode
through it we passed several small lakes, round the shores of whieh I picked up
some very fine pebbles of the agate species, exceedingly hard and possessing great
delicacy and variety of shading. The banks of the Columbia, from the falls up
to Lewis river (the Snake) abomid with pebbles of the same description; some of
which I brought home and had cut. They take a beautiful polish, .uid in the o))in-
ion of la))idaries far exceed the carnelian in value.
"The following day we passed two warm springs, one of whieli was mi hot that
in a short time water in a saucepan might be easily boiled over it. They were both
highly sid))huric, but we liad not time, nor indeed were we prepared to analyze
tluir pro])erties.
"On leaving the canoes we expected to have reached .S|)()kane on the third day;
but in consequence of Iiaving no guide, joined to the difficulty of finding water, we
took double the time on which we bad ealeulated. Our provisions had failed, and
we were about killing one of our jaded horses, when we came in sight of some lean
deer, two of wliicli we shot. This su))ply brought us to Spokane House, which
place we reached on the 12tii of May."
Sti wart, McMillan, Cox, .Mackenzie and Montour ])assed a most ])leasant sum-
mer tli.il VI ar, IHl.'i, at S])okaiie IIousi'. Their garden throve "like a green bay
tree," and in addition to potatoes and other roots and esculents, e\pi rinieiils with
melons and cucumbers gave gratifying results. "The Indians, who .at first would
not touch .any thing which we jilaiited, began at length to have sueh .1 relish for the
liroduce of the' g.arden that we were obliged to have sentinels on the watch to pre-
vent their continual trespasses."
Much as the natives relished these i)roduets of the deep, rich soil of the .Sijok.uie
countrv, all efforts by the traders to induce them to cultivate gardens of their own
proved ineffective. When they were told that by these means they could insure
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 41
an abundance of food in winter and .s|)riiig and thus ])revent tlie recurrence of
famine, they replied that such work would interfere with their hunting and fishing,
and moreover would discourage their squaws from collecting wild roots and fruits
in autumn, and render them lazy.
Several excursions were made that summer for tlie purpose of becoming better
acquainted with the neighboring Indians and to acquire a closer knowledge of the
country; and, spurred by a lively curiosity to know more about the deep coulee,
which they liad encountered while traveling across the Big Bend region, a second
trip of exploration was made out to that vast fissure in the crust of the earth.
"It is computed to be about eighty miles in length," runs the report of that
excursion, "and presents all along the same rocky and precipitous sides. The path-
ways are so steep and dangerous that even Indians in passing them are obliged to
dismount, and loaded horses must be partly lightened. Some of the horses, by
missing their footing, have been killed, and many severely injured in descending
these precipices. The bottom throughout consists of the same firm, white soil,
interspersed with small lakes. Several l)old insulated rocks are scattered here and
there throughout the ravine, some of which exceed a quarter of a mile in circum-
ference and are partially clothed with choke-cherry and other inferior kinds of
vegetation.
"From small horizontal channels worn on the sides of the rocks, and which
seemed to indicate the action of water, we were led to imagine that this valley was
formerly one of the channels of the Columbia, the course of which we supposed
must have been changed by one of those extraordinary convulsions in the natural
world, the causes of which are beyond human knowledge."
At that time on the broad plateau between the Spokane and the Okanogan,
hunters found, at certain seasons, numbers of small deer. Lewis and Clark had
noted the presence of these animals and classed them as antelopes, which they
closely resembled in form and swiftness, but the fur traders questioned the correct-
ness of this classification, since the antlers were quite different from the horns of
the antelope as described by naturalists. They were found in prime condition by
early autumn, when excellent sport was had in hunting them, and their flesh was
pronounced sweet and delicate.
In hunting these deer the Indians had a method of their own. After a herd had
been located, some members of the hunting party, by making a long detour, ob-
tained a position in front of it. while those in the rear fired the dry bunch grass.
Running before the flaming wind, the deer were intercepted by the hunters, and
great numbers were killed with arrows.
The wolves, too, according to the traders, had a concerted plan for preying on
these defenseless creatures of the plains. It was declared that a band of wolves
would form a semi-circular line and drive a herd to the edge of the Grand coulee;
and tlien, by drawing in their fang-snapping cordon, would so completely hem in
the victims as to leave them no alternative between leaping to death and destruction
over the rocky cliffs or falling an easy prey to the ravenous band of four-footed
hunters.
That was a warm summer on the Spokane. During the days of mid-summer the
temperature ranged from eighty-four to ninety-six degrees, and on the fifth of July,
when a great horse-race was the attraction, the thermometer recorded 1 1 1 in the sh-adc.
42 SI'OK.WI. AM) llll. IM.AM) l-.M 1' I li I',
Horse-racing was llu n royal sport on tilt- Spokane gravel ))lains. before baseball had
l.eeii inv.iitiil or l.agii.- t.aii.s were disporting before thousands of enthusiastic
"fans."
The precise location of the race-course is lost in the mists of anti(iuit.v. but it
eould not have been far from the present site of the city. Ross Cox locates it "on
tlie plains between tlie COeur d'Alcnc and Siwkane lands," and in addition to
speedy horses owned by these tribes otiur racers were there from tin- land of the
Flatheads, and several had been brought down from the Colville coiuitry by the
Chaudieres. "There were some cal)ital heats and the i)etting ran high." The
horses were ridden by their owners, and it was no uncommon sight for twenty-five
or thirty to run in a straightaway five mile heat. "The course was a perfect plain,
with a light gravelly i)ottoui, and some of the rearward jockies were occasionally
severely peppered in the face from the small pebbles thrown up by the hoofs of the
racers in front."
I'ranclure informs us that these Indians were passionately fond of horse-races,
and bet their jiossessions with a recklessness that often reduced them to poverty.
The women rode as well as the men. I'or bridle they used a cord of horsehair, which
they attached around the animal's month. With that he was easily checked, and by
laying a hand on his neck, was made to wheel to this side or that. The saddle was
a cushion of stuff. <1 d, . rskin, very suitable for the purpose for which it was de-
signed, rarely hurting the horse and not fatiguing the rider so much as the Amer-
ican saddles. The saddles for women were furnished with the antlers of a deer,
and resembh (I the high ponnueled saddh s of the Mexican women.
"Thev jjrocure their horses from the herds of these animals which are found in
a wild state between the northern latitudes and the gulf of Mexico, and which some
times count .1 thousand or fifteen hundred in a troop," says this informant. "These
horses come from New .Mexico and .ire of .'Spanish race. We even saw some which
had been marked by a hot iron by Si)aniar(ls. Some of our men, who had been at
the south, told UK that they had seen among the Indians, bridles, the bits of which
were of silver. Tiie form of the saddles used by the females proves that they have
taken their ijattern from the S)i.inisli ones destined for the same use."
When the first white men entered this country tiiey found tin Indians ad. jit in
the use of the lasso and the calituring of wild horses.
Tiiose were, indeed, pleasant, languorous summer days in tlu xall.y ot the
Sp.ikaii.-. "the most pl.as.int .ind agr.iabl.- season I enjoyed in the Indian country,"
writes Cox. "llunting, (isliing, fowling, horse-racing and fruit-gathering occupied
tiic day: whih re.uling, niusie. backgammon, etc., formed the evening pleasures of
our small but friiiidly mess."
We are further informed that the heat of the day was generally moderat.d by
cooling bre.zes. "Towards the lattir end of .\ugust. and during tli. month of Sep-
t.'irib.r, ali.iul noon. III.' Ih.-niioiiuler girierally stood at eighty-six, wliil,' in 111.-
morning .and . v.ning it fell to thirty-five or thirty-six;" a weather record that might
casilv lie duplieat.-d now by one of 111.' official r.])orts of Weather Observer Stewart.
L.ain.iitably llirse tr.insitory d.lighls loulil not continue indefinitely in tin- r.nigli
life of a fur trader. Winter was ;ipiin>aehiiig. a winter of deep diseont.iil .ind dire
hardships and jjrivations by froz.n river and wind-sweiit idain.
Tlh Spokau.' brigade w.as lat.' that aiitiiimi (KSl.")) in its des<-.iit of the Colum-
STKl-T(_)10 liUTTK
Must fMiiioiis Ian. I rjiark in Palmise country. Forim-rly callfil Pyraniiil Butte
. rni- ,£w voRK
^UBuc UBHaH]
»«r»» Lf Hair
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 43
hia to Fort George, as Astoria had now come to be known, and November was well
advanced when Keith, Montour, Mackenzie and Cox, with fifty voyac/eurs and
Rivet, the interpreter, started on the return trip to the interior. Winter set in early,
and at tlie moutli of the Snake niueli drift ice was encountered wliich threatened in-
Jury or destruction to the cedar bateaux and sucli of the canoes as were constructed
of birch bark. Ice jams were soon met, and the work of portaging around them, in
the severe temi)erature. exiiausted the men. For three days they struggled at tliis
dreadful toil, tile spirits of the men falling to tile lowest ebb.
After a cheerless breakfast a delegation presented itself before the tent occujjied
by the clerks and sent in word tliat they wished to speak to Mr. Keith, the com-
mander, and wlien he apjjcared at tlie tent opening, Bazil Lucie, one of the best and
most obedient men in tiie brigade respectfully asked leave to speak for iiis fellows.
His comrades, he said, were reduced to tlie lowest degree of weakness by tiie unex-
pected liardships they had encountered, and iiad become convinced that tliey could
not by any possibility overcome the long chain of rapids and ice jams that lay before
them. At the same time they wished it to be understood that tiieir protest was not
expressed in a mutinous spirit; tliey were willing and read}' to make the last eHort
tiiat lay within tiieir strength, but felt tiiemselves incapable of further endeavor.
Mr. Keith's first feeling was of anger and indignation. The protest was so at
variance witli the customary spirit of Canadian voycu/eurs that he feared, for a
moment, that lie would have to deal with a dangerous degree of insubordination; but
wiien he looked U|)on tlie dejected figures of iiis men, and read in their faitiiful eyes
tile sorrow which attended their reluctant remonstrance, he realized that his mo-
mentary anger was unworthy of a being of liumane principles, and addressed them
in ;i sympathetic spirit, assuring them that he did not find fault with their action
and regretted that lie could not provide them with a more comfortable wintering
ground.
For it had become api)arent tliat thji J>rigfide would be unable to ascend the
Columbia to Okanogan, but would JiiiVtf- to go into winter quarters on the bleak and
wind-swept bank of the river and await the coming of spring and the breaking up
of tile ice blockade which now held them in its unrelenting gri|).
Fortunately an abundance of driftwood was near at hand, and of this some of
the men were set at work gathering a large store, while otiiers were occupied in
piling the trading goods in a safe position; and yet otliers, with the assistance of
the canoes, tarpaulins and sails, constructed iiids and shelter for the expedition.
This winter encampment was probably in the vicinity of Badger mountain,
Douglas county, for the records state that about ten miles distant, in the midst of
extensive plains there rose a high and conically shaped hill, which the traders named
Mt. Nelson, and which, on having been climbed by Keith and one of the clerks,
atti)rd(d .1 commanding viewpoint from which they looked out over "a widely ex-
ttiid<il ijrospect of the great plains in their wintry clothing; their undulations
reminded us of the ocean, when the troubled waves begin to subside after a storm."
\'ainly they strained their eyes to catcli a glimpse of animate nature. "Xeitii( r
man, nor fowl, nor cattle, nor beasts, nor creeping thing met our longing and ex-
pectant gaze. Silent desolation reigned all around."
W'v may readily believe that the time jiassed heavily enougli. "Our travtliii"-
niirary." writes Cox. "was on too small a scale to .att'ord iiuieli iiitelleetiial eiijov-
44 SPOKANE AND Till-, INLAND HMI'IRE
iiiint. It iiiily iiiMsistt'd of one book of hyiiiiis, two song-books, the latfst edition of
Joe Miller, and Darwin's Hotanic Garden. The Canadians eould not join us in the
hymns, and we endeavored in vain to tune our pipes for profane harmony. "Yankee
Doodle,' the 'Frog's Courtship' and the 'Poker' were the only three that came
within the scope of our vocal ability."
A few men who had been sent afoot to Fort Ok.mogan returned early in Janu-
ary with sixteen lean and hungry cayuses and eight of these, after a few days' rest,
were loaded with a part of the goods and supplies, and Mr. Keith, t.aking with him
the greater number of the men, set off for the post at the mouth of the Okanogan.
"Mackenzie and I passed six more melancholy weeks in this spot," says Cox,
"during which period we did not see an Indian. Our time would have passed heav-
ily enough, only that we fortunately agreed on no single subject. Episcopacy and
Presbyterianism. with all their offshoots formed a prolific source of polemic recrea-
tion; and when we became tired of the mitre and the kirk, we traveled back to
Ossian and the Culdees. We argued on the immutability of the Magellanic clouds.
We discussed the respective merits of every writer to whom the authorship of Junius
has been attributed. We differed on the best mode of cooking a leg of mutton; and
we could not agree as to the superiority of a haggis over a harico, or of Ferintosh
over Inishowen. Plum pudding and rice each had its champion ; and when he rose
in all his strength and thought to destroy me with the plentiful variety of a Scotch
breakfast. I at once floored hiui with the solid substantiality of an English dinner.
Thus witli I ni))ty stomachs and half-famished bodies, we argued on luxuries while
we anticipated starvation.
"Poor Mackenzie," adds Cox in a footnote. "In 18:28 I received a letter from
the Columbia announcing the melancholy intelligence that he and four of his men
had, the jjreeeding year, been surprised by the savages on Phraser's river, who bar-
barously murdered the entire party."
But spring came early and released the party from the ice-grip, for aliout the
middle of February, under the genial influence of a strong Chinook wind, the Colum-
bia opened, and on the 16th they tried onee more their fortunes by water, and after
many narrow esca))es arrived at Okanogan twelve days later, "with empty stomachs
and exhausted bodies."
Neither Franchere nor Ross seems to have foreseen the building of a town,
much less an im))erial city, by the falls of the .Spokane. The latter had his eye on
the nioulli of the Okanogan as the site of tile future eoinniercial (le]>ot of the vast
interior. The situation there he thought ".admirably adapted for a trading town.
With a fertile soil, a healthy climate, horses in abundance for land carriage, an
opening to the sea by the Columbia, and a communication to the interior by it and
the Okanog.ui ; the rivers well stocked with fish, and the natives quiet and friendly,
it will, in my o|)inion, be selected as a spot jirceminently calculated for a site of a
town, when civilization (which is at present so r;ii)idly migrating towards the west-
ward) crosses the Rocky iiiouiitains and reaelies tlir Cohnnbia."
Jkit "man iiroposes and Ciod disposes" .and the traders of a hundred years ago,
however keen-sighted and far visioned. eould not foresee the revolution that was to
come with the locomotive and tin Imililiiij; of a \ast and intrieate system of railroads,
whose masters wire to wrest the growing tonnage of I Ik future from the rivers and
SPOKANE AND THE IXLAXU EMPIRE 45
the seas and contribute to the building of cities by sites that could not be approached
by the light canoe and the cedar bateau of the daring voyageur.
The brigade that came up from Fort George, spring of 1817, was the largest that
had ever ascended the Columbia. It left tiiat post under a salute of seven guns,
and comprised five Scots, two Englishmen, one Irishman, thirty-si.K Canadians,
twenty Iroquois Indians, two Nipissings, one Cree and three half-breeds; nine na-
tives of the Sandwich islands, and one boy, a servant, two women and two cliildren.
Two barges and nine large canoes were required for the transportation of this
party and the average lading to each iioat was nearly a ton exclusive of the weight
of passengers and crews.
This expedition, on its way to Fort William, on lake Superior, arrived at the
mouth of Canoe river, north of the Arrow lakes on the upper Columbia, without
notable accident or incident. At that point, as seven of the men had become inva-
lided, it was decided to return them to Spokane House rather than subject them
to the hardships and dangers of the long voyage over the mountains and the vast
plains of western Canada. Out of this action there was to develop one of the most
horrible tragedies of which western annals contain a record.
The best canoe was assigned the party of six Canadians and Holmes, the English
tailor, and although only two of the men were able to work, it was thought that the
current would carry them in three days to Kettle Falls, from whence they could
easily reach Spokane. As the stock of provisions was limited, barely sufficient was
assigned them for this period. They separated from their companions with gloomy
forebodings, and some of them predicted that they would nevermore see their fam-
ilies and friends in distant Canada.
The current of the Columbia, now swollen by melting snow fields, carried them
in ease and, safety to the upper Dalles or narrows. Here they disembarked, but in
an effort to lower the canoe through the foaming waters, the line broke or was torn
from the grasp of the weakened men, and the little craft swept away to destruction.
As they had lacked either the providence or the strength to remove their scanty
supply of provisions, these together with their blankets and most of their clothing,
were carried away with the canoe, leaving them stranded on a ^vild and inhospitable
shore, ill, destitute and discouraged.
As no other course lay before them, they set out feebly on foot in an endeavor
to follow the windings of the river to the Indian settlements far below. As the
beaches were inundated, they had frequently to take to the wooded mountains, tear-
ing their way along through the dense undergrowth, falling now and then from
weariness or complete exhaustion, and one by one abandoning hope and jnelding to
the blackness of despair. Macon, a voyageur, was first to perish under these ordeals,
and his famished and desperate comrades, driven now to the horrors of cannibalism,
divided his remains equally among them, and this shocking subsistence maintained
life for a few days. Owing to the torn and swollen state of their feet, they could
not advance more than two or three miles daily. Holmes, the tailor, followed Ma-
cron; and one by one the others lay down and died until there remained only La
Pierre and Dubois. Later La Pierre was found on the shore of upper Arrow lake,
by some Indians in a canoe, and by them was brought down the river to Kettle Falls.
The sole survivor declared that in self-defense he had been driven to cut the throat
of Dubois, who, as he contended, had risen in the night and first attempted to kill
4U Sl'OKANK AM) 11 11. INLANlJ l-Ml'lUE
him with a clasij-kiiifc. He was hrouf^ht to Spokane, where his conflictinjr stories
created sus))icioii. which was later iiiteiisitied hy the stateineiits made by the Indians
who had picked him u)). .ind he was sub.sequently sent to Canada for trial; bnt ;is
the evidence ajfainst liim was circumstantial, he was acquitted.
We h.ive traced the manner and the methods whereby the interests of the Pacific
Fur cdMip.iny (the A.stor enterprise) were ap|)r()pri.iticl. tiircuif;ii tre.ichery and
cow.irdice. by the Northwest comj),iny. It now remains to narrate tile events wiiieli
later led up to the acquisition of the Northwest company by the Hudson's Bay
people.
At no time within the period covered by these ii.irrativis liad the Hudson's 15ay
comiiany obtained a foothold west of the Koeky mount.iins; but in the country east
of the mountains the keenest and most unscrui)ulous rivalry h;id arisen between these
eonflictiri}^ adventurers. Under-handed methods were Liter succeeded by o))en war-
far( — the takinir of forts l)y armed .ittaek. the besieging of others until their inmates
perished of starvation, .uid other ecjually lawless and desperate methods. The spirit
ofth.it contest is well reflected in .i letter, writtin in IHKi from a Northwest trader
to a friend ,it .S|)okane:
"You .already know the strong opiiosition that came into the country, the great-
est iJart of which went to Atli.ab.isc.i .and Slave lake. You must .ilso have lie.ird
of their success at the former |)l.ice, having been obliged from sl.irv.ition to give
themselves up to the Northwest, .iltliough your old friend (our .Mr. {'I.irke of Spo-
ane House, who had gone over to the Hudson's ]$,iy jjeople), swore lie would r.itlier
die th.an come under any obligation to our ))eo|)le. He lost seventeen men by faniine.
•Vt Slave lake they were more successful; but ,it the different establishments they
had in other (larts of the country, they lost thirteen more by star\;ition. Last .June
they received ;i mortal blow from the ('oss.icks of Red river (half-breeds), of which
.ifi.iir, as I was on the s))ot a few d.ays later, I shall give you .i det.iil. You of
course know that two of our forts were taken, .and all the property, .and th.it C.i])-
tain Cameron (a proprietor of the Northwest company) was made jirisoner. The
forts were subsequently burned.
"Mr. ,\. McDonmll. who was stationed at Qu'apjicUe river, held his fort in de-
fiance of tluiii. He w.is threatened with destruction if he made iiiy .ittemiit to ))ass
downw.inl. His opiioiunl. lMi«e\ri'. st.irted with his hum, ,iiuI returns of furs and
jirovisions. but tliose bl.iekgu.ird Hrulis (also half-breeds) fell in with tliiin. took
them .all |)risoners. and carried the property to .Mr. McDonnell. No blood w.is shed
on this occasion. Some time .after. .Mr. McDonnell, being anxious for the .arrival
of the genthaMen I'rdiii tin iKirtliu aril, sent .1 parly iil' fixe ( '•■maili.-iiis with tun e;irts
loaded with jirovisions for us by hand; .and the ,ilio\c bl.ickguards took ui)on tliem-
sel\-es to .Li( pany them to the number of fifty. On p.issing by tlic colony, at the
disl.uKM- (if two miles, they were stopped by llii' gii\ernor .iiid twenty-six men well
■ iriiiid. The Brules wire ;it tli.il lime bill lliirleeii, including the Canadians. A
few words .arose bitween the governor .■iiid our men. The former ordered his men
to tire, when two only, with much reluetanee. obeyid. 'I'lie tire was immediately
nliiriiiil li\' llii Hniles, wlieii seven insl.inlly Irll. .\ nire.at \v;is begun by the Hud-
son's Hay ))eople. but out of twenty-six only four esc.ilied. The Brules had only
one man killed .and one wounded. They took the fort, with a great quantity of .arms
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 47
and ammunition, and have sworn vengeance against every description of Hudson's
Bay men. "
This was bad business — a degree of frenzied enterprise which comported but
poorly with tlie British boast about law and order; but it needs to be remembered
tliat there existed then in western Canada no law or authority beyond the rule of
the fur traders and tiie authority which they maintained by force of arms.
Such warfare was, of course expensive, and joined to the ruinous competition
which had driven the rivals to a policy of bidding higher and higher for the ])roduce
of the traps, threatened, if indefinitely continued, to bankrupt one or the other, or
])ossiblv both of the contesting companies. Back in Montreal and London, where
declining dividends impressed the stockholders with the reprehensible nature of the
conflict, an agitation soon started in the interest of peace, and negotiations were
entered into which culminated in the purchase by the Hudson's Bay people of all
the interests of the Northwest company, including Spokane House and other posts
in the interior and on the Columbia.
CHAPTER Vi
AMUSING AND TRAGIC INCIDENTS
DANCING WITH SPOKANE NYMPHS PETER SKENE OODEN AND HIS INDIAN WIFE FRENCH
THE PREVAILING LANGUAGE OF THE COUNTRY LOUIS LA LIBERTe's WOUNDED PRIDE
THRILLING ADVENTURE WITH A GRIZZLY BEAR ROUGH LIFE OF THE FREE
TRADERS KEEN COMPETITION FORCED RIDE WITH A SUPPLY OF TOBACCO SPO-
KANE WOMEN GREAT SLAVES SHOCKING DOUBLE ACT OF REVENGE.
ROSS, who came out on tlu- Tonquin in 18)1, and made frequent trips to the
interior, has recorded a graphic picture of Spokane House as it ap-
peared a hundred years ago: "There all the wintering parties, with
exception of the northern district, met. There they all fitted out ; it was the great
starting jjoint. ... At Spokane House there were handsome buildings ; there
was a ballroom even, and no females in the land so fair to look upon as the nymphs
of Spokane ; no damsels could dance so gracefully as they, none were so attractive.
]5ut Spokane House was not celebrated for fine women only ; there were fine horses
also. The race-ground was admired, and the pleasures of the chase often yielded
to the pleasures of tile race. Altogether Spokane House was a delightful place."
This breathes a spirit of badinage, but relatively, as rough conditions then
went at this and other posts, it sketches a picture that is fairly true.
Among the notable traders who yielded to the blandishments of the Spokane
bidies of that dim and dist.mt day was Peter Skene Ogdtn, who took for wife a
remarkable woman of tliat tribe. She bore him several children, and carried into
a serene old age a reputation as a faithful and dutiful spouse and a kind and
attentive mother. Siie followed the fortunes of her wliite master to tiie lower
Cohimbia. and dwelt for many years at Fort Vancouver and Oregon City. She
died, at the age of 86, at Lac La Hache, British Columbia. Ogden failed to
ratify the alliance with a formal marriage, even when pressed to do so as he lay
upon his couch of death. To the urgent solicitation of good old Dr. McLoughlin
he made answer that if many years of public recognition of tlie relation and of his
children did not constitute sufficient proof, no formal words of priest or magistrate
could help the matter. Ogden left a valuable estate, and this irregularity invited
a vigorous contest of his will by relatives in England, but the dispute was amicably
compromised through the efforts of Sir George Simpson, the executor of the will.
Ogden, who came from an influential colonial family, revealed in liis boyhood
a daring and adventurous spirit which lured him, while yet a youtli. into tlie west-
ern wilds. He had been for a while, in the service of John Jacob Astor as a
Vol 1—4
49
50 SPOKANE AM) THK INLAND E.MPJRE
clerk, presumably at Montreal, but a little later, in 1811. lie attached himself, at
the age of 17, to the Northwest company, and operated for several years in the
wild country to the east of the Rocky mountains. He came upon the Columbia in
1818, and two years later, by his zeal, courage and indefatigable industry, was
made a partner in the Northwest company, and later became chief factor of the
Hudson's Bay company. Ogden was a frequent sojourner at Spokane House, and
was here at intervals till tiie jjost was abandonel to the elements and the use of
the Indians of the neighborhood.
From a manuscript in the Spokane city libr.iry. "Sijokane House; History of
an Old Trading Post," I am pcrniittdl by tin- .lutbdr. Willi.un .S. Lewis of tiiis city,
to make the following extracts:
"After spending several days in looking for a suitable site, for his trading post,
Clarke finally decided upon a beautiful point of land at the juncture of the Spokane
and Little Spokane rivers. . . . The site selected was one of considerable
beauty as well as commercial advantage. The Little Spokane, emerging from a
narrow, heavily wooded valley, flows along ))arallel to the main river for .a mile or
so before joining it. To the east are high, bald granite hills; and to the west
gravel benches rise, overgrown with bunch-grass and occasional pines. On the
alluvial bottom, midway between the two rivers and a short distance from their
juncture, the post known as Spokane House was established. . .
"A stout stockade, twelve feet high, was erected; this was flanked with two
square bastions, each armed with a light four-pounder of brass, and with loop-
holes cut in the upper story for use of musketry. This defense proved unnecessary,
as the local tribe of Indians w.is very honest and inoffensive, and the post gates
were seldom closed at night. The only use the four-pounders were ever put to
was that of making noise for local celebrations. Within the stockade thus built,
to make the following extracts:
"The main trading building was an oblong structure, built of peeled logs of
uniform size, the greater hiigtli extending north and south, and the sides facing
the two rivers.
"Till' framework of the roof, doors ,uul windows w.as of liewn tiuiliers. carefully
fitted .and f.istened with wooden pegs, in place of n.iils, .ind the roof was shingled
with sh.ikes cut from eed.irs growing .ilong tlie banks of the Little .Spokane.
"In the middle of this trading liuilding. on e.-ieli side, an o|)ening seven leet
high .and eight feet with w.is cut. forming a p.iss.ige -way. F.ach side of this was
built u)) breast high, as a counter, to |)roteet the w.ires of the traders from the
thieving ))roi)ensities of the Indians. Indi.ans desiring to trade could come into
the building from i itiier side, up to tile log r.iilJMg. Ixliiud « liiell some of the
clerks .and men were .ilw.iys stationed in eare of the niereliandise.
".\nnixed to tli<- tr.iding building was .i room in which the furs were stored tor
tr.insportation to ,\stori;i.
"Clarke was an old and experienced Indian trader. As soon as his buildings were
conii)leted, he assembled the neighboring Indians, made several speeches, displayed
his fine buildings ;ind his wealth, and then gave a grand b.ill in honor of his men
and the Indi.iiis — the first big .social event in the history of our section. . . .
"By a separate agrtemint (at th<' time the .Vstor interests passed to the North-
I
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 51
west company) S}3okane House and property was sold to the Canadians for a band
of Indian horses, to be delivered the following spring.
"Under the management of the Northwest company, Spokane House was, for
several years, an important trading center, tiiough the post proved to be in a
rather out of the way location, 150 milts from the better fur regions, furs being
scarce in the immediate neighborhood, and the local Indians being but indolent
hunters. Gradually, as the local fur-bearing animals were destroyed, tlie busi-
ness became less and less lucrative, yet the post continued to be retained, largely
as a matter of sentiment and |)ersi)iial comfort. It was the Mecca for all the fur
traders; the climate was delightful, the Indians friendly; all the wintering par-
ties of the district met at Spokane; all fitted out here — it was a great starting
point. Trappers, after their montlis of solitary labor, were eager for the attrac-
tions of the post. The buildings were unusually handsome and commodious; the
post even boasted of a ballroom, and the graceful native dancers were in great
demand as partners. There were many fine horses about the place, and many
a man wagered the earnings of a year upon tiie race-course. Deer were plentiful ;
trout and other fish filled the streams ; and savory steaks of bunch-grass fed cayuses,
a great delicacy at Spokane House, were famous througiiout the Rocky moun-
tains.
"When, !March 26, 1821, the Xortliwest company was absorbed by the Hudson's
Bay company, Spokane House passed to the ownership of the latter. But the fur
trade on the lower Columbia was now on the decline, and Spokane House was aban-
doned in 182,5. and a new Hudson's Bay post established on the Columbia river, a
short distance above Kettle P'alls, called Fort Colville."
W. P. Winans, who went to Colville in July, 1861, where he lived until 1873, says,
in a manuscript relative to the earliest settlements in that valley: "When the war
of 1812 forced the Astor party to sell to the Northwest Fur company in 1813, they
abandoned one of the posts at the mouth of the Little Spokane, and located it in the
Colville valley, about 1816. When the Hudson's Bay company, in 1821, absorbed
the Northwest Fur company, they built a stockaded fort at tliis trading post, on
the south bank of the Columbia river, about a mile above Kettle I'alls, and called
it Fort Colville.
"When the writer visited, in 1870, the location of these posts on the Spokane
and at the mouth of the Okanogan river, all that remained to indicate that once
there had been buildings and people living there were the mounds made by fallen
chimneys and the graves of the dead, although Fort Okanogan was occupied and
maintained as a trading post for about fifty years, tlie last man in charge being a
half-breed named Francis Desotel, who in 1862 abandoned it. moving tlie goods up
to the Similkimeen river, about eiglity miles north, and established a trading post
there.
"Either William Frazier or Archii)ald MacDonald built Fort Colville and named
it after the then London governor of the Hudson's Bay company. It was next to
Vancouver in importance. Here the accounts or statements from all the posts in
the Pacific northwest were made up for transmission, via the Columbia river to
Boat Encampment, through Athabasca pass, via Jasper House and York factory on
Hudson Bay, and thence by ship to England. It was maintained until 1870. when
the Hudson's Bay company moved into Britisli territory.
52 SPOKANK AM) llll IM.ANI) K.MIMHK
"The first time I visited Fort Colville was in August, 1861. Then there was a
stockade enclosing it, about 2r>0 feet square and twelve or fourteen feet high, in
good repair, witli s(|uare towers or bastions at ojjposite corners enclosing the houses. I
saw it again in .Inly. 19()K The stockade was gone, but some of the old storerooms
and one of tiie b.istions built in I8'27. .ind the fr.inie dwrlling houses of tlie chief
trader, built in 1863, were standing, the property being then owned by Donald
McDonald, son of Angus McDonald, the chief trader, who claimed it as a homestead
in 1870. During the thirteen years I resided in Colville valley, many times I
enjoyed the society of Mr. .\ngus McDonald, the chief trader, who dispensed hos-
pitality after the manner of the Scotch lairds of his ancestral home.
"I have an illustration in mind. A i)arty of about fifteen of us concluded we
would pay our resjjeets to Mr. McDonald on New Year's day, 1861', and have a
sleighride too. So we got a pair of bobsleds, with a big wagon box and four
horses, and drove the fifteen miles to the Hudson's Bay conijjany jiost. Mr. McDon-
ald received us with courtly grace and abundant cheer. .Mtir the usu.-il greetings,
we spent a short time socially, and were .about to returti that afternoon, but he
would h.ive none of it. We must stay to diiuier and spend the night with him. We
consented, and the dinner was served, on what he called a 'field table.' in a l.irge
room twenty by thirty feet. Next to the w.iUs on the floor wen- s])read fur robes;
the space left in the center was covered with white table cloths, and on this white
field table, say ten by twenty feet, were iil.ued the dishes with provisions. The
thirty guests, which includi il dur |),irty .uul .ibout as many more, being the princi-
pal farmers of the valley, assembled around this festal board, and. reclining on the
robes, we leisurely ))artook of the bountiful sujiply before us, and listened to our
host relate incidents of eii.isc or exploration, or eontlict and treaty with the natives
of the Northwest. Thus we sjient some hours, retiring .about midnight to our beds.
"While he was entert.aining us, at the same time there were .-issembled in other
buildings of the fort, as their yearly custom was, the former employes of the com-
pany and their families, numbering over 100. who usually sjient the holiday week
with him, having the best time in their lives in feasting, social mirth, music and
dancing.
"Angus McDonald e.ime to this country in 1840, as a clerk for the Hudson's Hay
company, was sent to h'ort Hall, and w.-is tliere with Cajjtaiu Gr.int. Was married
in 1843 to a daughter of a Ncz Perce chief. Came to Colville and took charge of
the post about 18,50, and remained with the Hudson's Bay comi>,iny as long
as they maintained trading posts in I'liited States territory. Some of his chil-
dren having taken up their residence in the [''lathcad coimtry, he moved to that
section, living near them the last few years of life. He died February 1st, 1889,
over 72 years of age."
There remain some odds umI ends of ancedDte and .adventure, and a few frag-
ments of historic incident, to roinid out the section of this volume that deals with
the picturesque period of the fur-trader. Those were brave and daring times, a
hundred years ago, when the British flag flo.itid ovir the Inland Empire, and our
first citizens were a medley aggregation of canny Scots and volatile French Canadians,
of Iroquois and Spokancs, of half breeds and Sandwich islanders, with now and then
a "mountain man," free trajjp.r .ind h.ilf savage American from the Kentucky
frontier.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 53
French was the prevailing tongue, and traces of that language are stamped
forever on the nomenelature of our mountains, lakes and rivers. They are written
on our waters in such names as Pend d'Oreille (ear-ring), Coeur d'Alene (sharp-
hearted), Palouse, (a grassy region), Nez Perces (pierced noses), and many others.
Some of the Scotch clans were so numerously represented in the Spokane country
that the voyageiirs, in order to escape confusion of names, resorted to distinctive
nicknames. There were, for examj^le, Mr. Mackenzie le rouge (the red), Mr. Mac-
kenzie le blanc (the white), Mr. Mackenzie le borgne (the one-eyed), Mr. Mackenzie
le picote (the pock-marked); Mr. MacDonald le grand (the big), Mr. MacDonald
le pretre (the priest), Mr. MacDonald le bras croche (the crooked arm). Ross
Cox narrates an amusing incident growing out of this custom ; and since the leading
character was probably the ancestor of the Liberty family whose name we have
perpetuated in Liberty lake, the anecdote has a fitting place in a history of Spo-
kane.
Mr. Shaw, one of the agents, had passed many years in the interior, and was
by the voyageiirs called Monsieur Le Chat (the cat). On quitting the Indian
country he married a Canadian lady, by whom he had several children. Some
years after this event, one of his old foremen, Louis La Liberte, went to Montreal
to spend the winter. He had heard of his old bourgeois' marriage and was anxious
to see him. Mr. Shaw was walking on the Champ de Mars with a couple of officers,
when La Liberte spied him. He immediately ran up, and seizing him by both
hands, exclaimed:
"Ah, mon cher Monsieur Le Chat, comment vous portes-voiis?"
"Tres bien, Louisson."
"Et comment se parte Madame La Chatte?"
"Bien, bien, Louisson, elle est tres bien." ■
"Et tous les petits Chatons?"
("Ah, my dear Monsieur Cat, how do you do.''" "Very well, Louison." "And
how is Madame Cat.^" "Well, well, Louisson, she is very well." "And all the little
Kittens .!'")
By this time Mr. Shaw, a trifle embarrassed before his fine army friends,
thought it advisable to check La Liberte's effusiveness and with a rather brusque
reply turned away, leaving Louisson astonished and indignant over his cool recep-
tion.
La Liberte, adds Cox, was an extraordinary old man ; he had several fine daugh-
ters by an Indian wife and became father-in-law to three proprietors. He was there-
fore proud of his connections, and feeling indignant at Mr. Shaw's supposed cavalier
treatment, adopted an eccentric method of manifesting his resentment.
He ordered a coat to be made of fine green cloth, with silver buttons; a vest of
crimson velvet, with carnelian buttons, braided sky-blue pantaloons, Hessian boots
with gold tassels and silver heels; a hat, feathers and silk sash. And thus accou-
tered, with a long calumet in his right hand, and a splendidly ornamented smoking-
bag in his left, he proceeded to the Champ de Mars during a regimental parade,
and observing Mr. Shaw walking in company with some ladies and gentlemen, he
vociferated:
"Ha, ha, Monsieur Le Chat, voyez ma veste! vo-ila les boutons! En avez-vous
de mime? Ha, ha, Monsieur Le Chat! regardes mes bottes; je suis ferre d'argent!
54 SI'OK.WK AM) THl-; IM AM) lAIIMKi;
Jf siiis /(■ hraii-jicrc itc Moiisiriir McDiiiiiill .' Monsieur Mackemic est man (lendre;
et }!■ me siicre lie tons lex Chats, et ile toittrs les Cluilles!"
(Ha, lia, Monsieur fat. st-e my vivst ! Then- ari- tin- buttons: Ii.im ynu aM\- like
tllcm? Ila, lia. MoMsifur Cat. set- my hoots! I am shoii with silver. I am the
father-in-law of .Monsieur .MeDinnill; .Monsieur .M.ieken/.ie is my son-in-law; and
my cur.ses on all tiu' Cats, male and female!")
.Some of his friends, who previous to his h.ninj; homi- observed him drinking a
quantity of rum. followed him to the jjar.ide ground, and with much diHieultv at
Icngtli sueeeeded in foreiiif; him ,iw;iy. while the old man every now and then lifted
up a li-g. aiul ehallenged .-iny .Shaw or ollierr on the ground to show silver heels to
his boots.
'I'here is re.ison to believe, from tlu aliundan<'e of testimony whiell comes down
to us from early days, thai the bear, and particularly the grizzly, was far more
formidable and ferocious ;i hundred year.s ago than at the present dav. This be-
lief is borne out by the journals of Lewis and Clark, always coldly scientific and
judicial, .as W( 11 as by the circumst.intial narratives of hunters and tr.ippirs. The
Indians looked upon the grizzly ,is .a foe dee])ly to be dreaded, .and no greater dis-
tinction coidd come to a w.irrior th.an th.it won by killing one of thesi- monsters of
the forests, a fe.it which i-ntitled the hunter ever .after to wear a necklace of the
claws of the v.aniiuished biar. In miking this statement the author is aware
that the conclusion might seem to run counti'r to the careful and undoubtedly cor-
rect opinions of Mr. W . H. Wright, the well known natur.alist aiul author of .Spo-
kane, wliosc many years of (irst-h.ind study of the grizzly of the Pacific co.ast h.ave
won for him a place as supreme .itithority on the subject now under discussion.
Reflection, however, makes it app.ireiit that thesi- seemingly contradictory state-
ments of the nature of the grizzly bear ;iri' iu)t necessarily incompatible. One may
accept Mr. Wrights i)resent d.ay judgment ;in<l iu)t have to reject the testimony of
a hundred years ago.
IJefore the .advent into this country of the whites, tli<- Indians possessed no more
formidable weapons than thi' bow. tlu- spear .and the club. Thus lightly armed, it
is .apparent that Ihev would ap])roach the grizzly with exceeding caution, and he
in turn had learned by .issoci.ation th.at m.an was rel.ativcly a timid being, one
easily overcome in .a struggle ,at close (|U.irters; and this gave him boldness and
aggression. N.aturally. when the first white men iiitered the country, the grizzly
was rcadv to face them .and to fight, and was slow to le.irn caution and fear of the
inferior guns tlien in use. \i\\l with the country's settlement and the .ipjiearance
of more dcadiv rifles, he has been taught a dilVereiil lesson. Ile has harned tb.at
the white man can kill the biir. and kill .at long r.ange.
An .adventure <-xperieiu cd in the spring of I H Hi by .a |)arty of ten Canadians
who h.ad been sent from Spokaiir House on a trading excursion along the I'end
d'Oreille river, w.as well attested by .all the members at the time. The third even-
ing .after thcv h.ad (piitted the fort on the .Spok.aiU'. while sitting around .a c.imp-
fire, dining on the choice bits of a dei r. a half-famished bear spr.aiig from behind
a tree, cl.isped one of the st.artled voiiaijeurs in his embrace, aiul .ambled olT with
his terror-stricken burden a dist.iiu-e of some fifty y.ards. Here the Can.adi.in was
dropped, and .a large bone of tin di ( r from which he bad been eating the uu-at
was seiz<(l from his grip.
hi;. .IOUX McLOlUUtLIN
Chief factur df tlio Ihnlsoii's H/.y ('niii|i,-ii:y. :it V.-iiiriJincr. in I In- Mils
• rni: :;ew york
^UBLiC UBRAR]
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE ' 55
As soon as the startled campers had partly recovered from the alarm occasioned
by this audacious act, Baptiste Le Blanc, a half-breed hunter, seized his gun and
was about to fire when his arm was arrested by some of his companions who feared
that a shot would kill their companion. Louisson, the kidnaped voyarfeur, attempted
to escape, now that the bear had dropped him and was picking at the bone, but the
grizzly growled in anger and again seized him, this time in a more vise-like grip.
Louisson screamed out in agony and exclaimed :
"Tire! Tire! mon cher frere, si tu m'aimes! Tire, pour Vamoiir du hon Dieii!
A la tete! a la tete! (Shoot, shoot, my dear brother, if thou lovest me! Shoot, for
the love of the good God! At the head, at the head!")
Le Blanc fired, and liis well directed ball wounded the bear, which, in its rage
scratched the face of Louisson, leaving marks that permanently marred his visage.
At this juncture tiie men ruslied in on tlie wounded bear and dispatched it with
tlieir long hunting knives.
Scattered tlirough the Spokane country and other regions west of the Rocky
mountains were a number of free traders. Tliese, as a rule, had served out their
time with the fur companies, and preferred to continue in the country rather than
be returned east under the terms of their contract. They generally had Indian
families, and some of them practiced polygamy. They brought their produce to
the company stores, to exchange for goods, or, in some cases for a money credit at
Montreal. "From their constant exposure to the sun," says one observer, "these
men are as irretrievably bronzed as the native Indians, from whom, owing to their
long separation from their countrymen, they differ but little, either in their habits
or their mode of living."
Captain Bonneville, describing these vagrant wanderers of the wilderness, has
said that "they come and go, when and where' they pfease ; provide their own arms,
horses and other equipnients ; trap and trade on their own account, and dispose of
their skins and )Kltries to tiie iiigiiest bid^ler. Sometimes, in a dangerous hunting
ground, tliey attach themselves to the carftp of ' soiUe .'t'ra-der for protection. Here
they come under some restrictions; they hJH-e to conform to the ordinary rules for
trapping, and to submit to such restraints and to take part in such general duties as
are established for the good order and safety of the camp. In return for this pro-
tection and their camp-kee))ing, they are bound to dispose of all the beaver they
take to tlie trader who commands the camp, at a certain rate per skin; or, should
they prefer seeking a market elsewhere, they are to make him an allowance of from
thirty to forty dollars for the whole hunt."
Washington Irving, who gained access to the extended notes of Captain Bonne-
ville, continues with the following free transcription :
"The wandering whites who mingle for any length of time with tiie savages
have invariably a proneness to adopt savage habitudes; but none more so than the
free trappers. It is a matter of vanity and ambition with them to discard every-
thing that may bear the stamp of civilized life, and to adopt the manners, habits,
dress, gestures, and even walk of the Indian. You can not pay a free trapper a
greater compliment than to persuade him you have mistaken him for an Indian
brave; and in truth, the counterfeit is complete. His hair, suffered to attain to
a great length, is carefully combed out, and either left to fall carelessly over his
shoulders, or plaited neatly and tied up in otterskins or parti-colored ribbons.
56 SPOKANE AND TUi: JNJ.ANIJ EMl'lUE
A hunting-shirt of rutilcd calico of liright dyes, or of oriianitiited Icatlicr falls to his
knee; below whicli curiously fashioned leggings, ornamented with strings, fringes
and a profusion of hawkbells, reach to a costly pair of moccasins of the finest In-
dian fabric, riclily embroidered with beads. A blanket, of scarlet or some other
bright color, hangs from his shoulders, and is girt round his waist with a red sash,
in which he bestows his pistols, knife, and the stem of his Indian pipe; i)rc])ara-
tions cither for peace or war. His gun is lavishly decorated with brass t.icks and
vermilion, and provided with :\ fring(-d cover, occasion.illy of buckskin, ornamented
here and there with a feather.
"His horse, the noble minister to the jiride, pleasure and ])rofit of the moun-
taineer is selected for his speed and spirit and prancing gait, and holds a place in
his estimation second only to himself. He is caparisoned in the most dashing and
fantastic stvle; the bridle and crupper are weightily embossed with beads and
cockades; and head, mane and tail arc interwoven with an abundance of eagle
plumes which flutter in the wind. To complete this grotesque equipment, the proud
animal is bcstreaked and bespott<d with vermilion, or witli wliite clay, whichever
presents the most glaring contrast to his real color."
The Spokanes, like all other Indians of the interior, were inordinately fond of
tobacco, and to gratify their aiiintite would resort to industry when all other mo-
tives were powerless to lure them from their habits of indolence. No business, how-
ever trifling in importance, could be transacted until the negotiants had been indulged
in an extended preliminary smoke.
A party would arrive at the fort with the produee of their traps, deposit it on
the floor and gravely squat around the lir,!)) in a circle. TIk re ii|ioh the trader
would light his long peace \i\pc and go through a ceremonial perforuianee, directing
first his face to the east, giving a solemn p\itl' in that quarter, and then repeating
the performance with his face towards the other cardinal points of the compass.
After a few short q\iick ])uffs, he would then i)ass tin- pipe to the chief, who would
go through the same ritual, after which the calumet would be handed to the Indian
next on his right, who would give a few whiffs and then jiass it along. In this way
the pipe would pass from hand to hand until the tobacco burned out. when the
trader would present the p.-irty with a quantity of tobacco for individual smoking,
which they would generally finish before taking up the business of barter, remark-
ing that they had been "a long time very hungry for a smoke."
The smoking over, each man divided his skins into different lots, and made it
known to the trader that he was ready for business, indicating his wants and that
he was ready to trade eacli little pile for souu- |);irtieul;ir article or articles. The
business transacted, another smoking match followed i)reliminary to their deii.irture
for their village or encaminnent. The traders at .Spokane House found them
"shrewd, hard dealers, not a whit inferior to .iiiy n.itive of Yorkshire, .Scotland or
Connaught in driving a bargain,"
At times, before the Astor posts had i)ass<(i to the control of the Northwesters,
competition was as keen between these rivals as nowadays between eom|)eting com-
mercial travelers from Spokane, Portland and Seattle. An incident in the spring
of 1813 will illustrate both the Indi;ui love of tob.ieeo and tlu keen rivalry then
existing between the Astorijins and the Northwesters.
One forenoon, at 11 o'clock, Mr, Clarke at S))okane House received a letter by
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 57
courier from Mr. Farnliaui, who had been dispatched a few days previously with
a party to trade with the Flatheads in the country to the east, infornxing him that he
had fallen in with a large band of Flatheads who had a rich supply of furs, the
produce of tlieir winter's efforts; that his rival, Mr. McDonald, was also on the
ground, but that both himself and McDonald were quite out of tobacco, and
all business was at a standstill. Farnham added that the one who should get the
first supj)ly of tobacco would, by treating the Indians to a grand smoking feast,
obtain tlieir furs, and urged tlie utmost endeavor to expedite the sending of a
supply. It was absolutely necessary, he said, that the tobacco be delivered to him
tliat night, to prevent the Indians treating with McDonald, with whom they had
had a longer acquaintance than witli Farnham.
The rival traders were then at the falls of the Pend d'Oreille, near the present
town of Newport, seventy-two miles distant from Spokane House, and Mr. Clarke
at first despaired of victory, considering it impossible for any horse to cover that
distance in the limited hours of daylight that remained. He was about giving up
the contest as hopeless when one of liis clerks volunteered to make the effort if
Clarke would allow him to ride a noted horse of his own, called Le Bleu. The offer
was accepted, the saddle thrown on Fe Bleu, and at 12 o'clock tlie clerk galloped
away from Spokane Hou.se to the encouragement of cheers from tiie men. His
course lay, for much the greater part of the way, the length of the valley of the
Spokane, and the trail being in excellent condition, no difficulty was encountered
so long as there remained a glimmer of daylight, and the rider had open country
before him. The last ten miles of the way lay in forest, and dusk descending, the
rider was delayed by darkness and obstructions of underbrush and fallen trees;
but persistence trium])hed, and as he came out of the woods his eye was gladdened
by the glare of campfires along the portage.
Tlie thick twist was soon in the hands of Farnham, word quickly ran through
the encami)ment that tobacco had arrived, and in an incredibly brief time clouds
of smoke were floating above the heads of white trader and Indian warrior. The
Flatheads thanked Mr. Farnham for liis extraordinary efforts to indulge them, and
promised that he should have all their furs; but to clinch the compact he suggested
that they deposit their packages overnight in his tent, enjoy themselves meanwhile
in unlimited free smoke, and take up the business of barter the following morning.
This they readily accepted, and the Astorians got the last fur the day after, not-
withstanding two of their rivals came in a few hours later with a quantity of tobac-
co, dispatched also from Spokane House as soon as the Northwesters there had
scented the meaning of the hurried departure of their competitors. The Canadians
were deeply chagrined by the success of the Americans and upbraided the Flat-
heads for having deserted them for strangers ; but the latter philosophically replied
that since the Astorians had been the first to gratify their hungry cravings for
tobacco, it would have been ungrateful for them not to reciprocate ; and as for such
debts as were owing from them to the Canadians, they promised faithfully to cancel
them in future dealings.
Le Bleu was described by an admirer at the time as "a noble animal, between
fifteen and sixteen hands high, seven years of age, admirably built, and derived his
name from his color, which was a dappled white and sky-blue. He was also a prime
racer, and had beaten all competitors on the turf."
58 SPOKANT, AND 'I'HI', INT. AM) F.MI'IRF.
Cox credits tlu- Spokanes as "an honest, friciully tribe," adding that "tliey are
good hunters, but somewhat indolent, fond of gambling, despotic husbands, but
indulgent fathers. Their women are great slaves, and most submissive to marital
authority. They did not cxliibit tin- same iiulitt'erenee to tile superior comforts
of a white man's wife as that displayed by thi- I'lathead women, and some of 'them
eonsequently became i)artners of tile voi/ar/i'ur.s. They niade excellent wives, and
in general coiuhuti-d themselves witli pri)|)riety. Although the .S])okane men are
extremely jealo\is, and |)unish witii severity any infidelity on the part of their
wives, they themselves are not overscrupulous in tlieir own conduct."
In this eoniicelioM the same .iMthiirity narrates a tragic incident at .Spokane
House: ".Sl.-ivish .and submissive .-is the .Spokane women are, they do not l.iniely
submit to the occasion.al Lapses of their husb.inds. an instance of which occurred
in the suininer of I. SI"), while I uas at .S|i(ik,iiic House. One of the tribe, named
Singelsaascoghaght, (or the horse) from his great swiftness and dexterity in riding,
was a tall and rather handsome Indian. He w.as rcm.irkable for his gallantries.
His wife had for some time suspected him of e.irryiiig on an intrigue, .and being con-
stantly on the w.atch. she soon discovered tli.it her suspicions were not groundless.
The very night of the discovery, while he was in .a profound sleep, she inflicted on
him a dreadful injury, of which \\v died befon- morning. On the intelligence
becoming public, a crowd of his rel.ations .assenibhd around the lodgi-, to whom she
opeidy .avowed herself ;is the .author of his de.ath, stating at the same time her
reasons for connnitting the dreadful .act; but she h.ad scarcely finished when an
•arrow from her husb.and's brother quivered in her heart. Her relations inst.antly
collected. Guns, arrows and tomahawks were in instant requisition, and before we
could arrive to check the bloody conflict, two men and two women had fallen vic-
tims. Our ])resence restored tr.an(|uility, .and as the sufferers on each side were
equ.ally divided, we experienced no gre.at ditHculty in liringing about .a reconcilia-
tion, and each i);irty rested s.atistied with its resi)ective loss."
By the same writer the Pointed Hearts, or. as the Can.adians ealhd tin in. /,c.v
Cuciirs il'Alenes, (Hearts of Awls) Avere described as a sm.all tribe inhabiting the
shores of .a l.ake .about fifty miles to the eastw.ard of .Spokane Housi'. "Some of this
tribe occasionally visited our fort with furs to h.arter. and we ni.ade a few excur-
sions to their lands. We found tin in uniformly hoiust in their tr.aflic. but they did
not evince the same warmth of friendshij) for us as the Spokanes, and expressed no
desire for the establishment of .a trading post .among them. They are in many
respects more sav.age than tluir neighbors, .and I li.ive seen some of them often eat
deer .and other iii<;it r.aw. They .are .also mori unfeeling luisb.ands, and frequently
beat tlieir wives in ,an unfeeling manner. '
Tlu-se two tribes had btaai at war .about Iweiity years before the .adviiit of the
white Ir.aders, arising out of .an iiieideiit of .a Troj.an n.ature, but ,at the period of
these writings were .at peace, .and interiiiarrieil .anil .appeared to be on terms of
perfect friendship.
By both tribes the women were eonih inned to .a life of gre.at drudgery. They
collected the firewood, carried the water, cooked the food, prepared the raiment,
dressed the skins .and gathered and dried the winter's store of roots and berries. When
1
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 59
a hunter killed a deer, he merely cut out the tongue or removed enough for a single
meal, and on his return to the encampment dispatched Iiis wife to carry in the
body, she having for guidance in this task notches cut on trees by her hunter hus-
band. The women, however, seemed quite contented in their subordinate position,
notwithstanding its harships and their almost total lack of influence in tribal
matters.
' £ W
li'UBUC Ui
CHAPTER VII
EARLY DAY MISSIONS IN THE INLAND EMPIRE
CRUDE MISSION EFFORTS OF CATHOLIC IROQUOIS EMBLEM OF THE CROSS ON THE CO-
LUMBIA INDIAN PILGRIMAGE TO ST. LOUIS ARRIVAL OF REV. SAMUEL PARKER IN
1835 HIS TRAVELS IN THE SPOKANE COUNTRY ARRIVAL OF WHITMAN AND SPALD-
ING WITH THEIR BRIDES OVERLAND JOURNEY OF EELLS AND WALKER WITH THEIR
BRIDES ADVENTURES ON THE PLAINS AND IN THE MOUNTAINS ARRIVAL AT WHIT-
MAN MISSION NEAR WALLA WALLA.
The groves were God's first temples. Ere man learn'd
To hew the shaft and lay the architrave,
And spread the roof above them, — ere he framed
The lofty vault, to gather and roll back
The sound of anthems ; in the darkling wood.
Amid the cool and silence, he knelt down.
And offer'd to the Mightiest solemn thanks
And supplication.
— William Ctillen Bryant.
WITH the earliest advent of the white man in this region, bringing with
liim arms, implements, food, attire and customs different from those of
the natives ; keen curiosity was created in the Indian mind regarding the
source of his superior civilization and gifts. Some slight efforts were made by Cap-
tains Lewis and Clark to enlighten the savage intellect with respect to the Bible
and Christianity, but the results were necessarily meager, both from the limitations
of the aboriginal mind and an exceedingly imperfect knowledge of the Indian tongues.
Native conception of the benefits of Christianity was chieflv if not wholly material
rather than moral, and after these explorers had left tlie country, a belief arose in
the minds of the more intelligent chiefs and head men that possession and knowledge
of the white man's "book" would supply their people with the key to civilization and
the mechanic arts.
A few years after the departure of Lewis and Clark, a number of Christianized
Iroquois Indians, who had been attached to fur trading establishments in Canada,
found their way over the Rocky mountains and fraternized with some of the tribes
inhabiting the Inland Empire, notably the Flatheads and tribes along the Columbia.
Zealous to spread the light of the gospel, these Catholic Iroquois attempted in a crude
way to convert the tribes to Christianity. When David Stuart, a partner in John
61
62 SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMIMHE
Jacob Astor's Pacific I'lir coinpaiiv, was asccndinj; tile Columbia in the spring of
1811 to establish a trading post at the uioulh of tlie Okanogan, lie observed that
religious services or ceremonies were being conducted by one of these Iroquois mis-
sionaries, and from that circumstance named the cascades at that point "I'riest
Rapids," and Priest Kapids they remain to the ))resent day.
Considerable results j)robal)ly attended these missionizing efforts, for the Rever-
end Samuel Parker, sent out here by the American Board of Commissioners for
Foreign Missions in IH'.i't to explore the country and choose sites for Protestant
missions, reported finding along the Columbia in eastern Washington, a number of
Indian graves over wliieh rudely coiistrueti-d crosses had beiii lifted by pi.)U^ h.mds.
"The night of our .irrival, ' says Parker, "a little girl, of about six or seven ye.irs
of age. died. The morning of the I'.'tli tiny buried her. Everything nlating to
the ceremony was conducted witli gri at |)ro|)riety. The grave was dug only about
two feet deep; and with their hands they fill U)) the grave after tile body is dejiosited
in it. A mat is l.iid in the gr.ive; then the body wrajiped in its blanket, wilii the
child's drinking cup and sjioom. made of horn: then a ui.it of rushes is spre.ad over
the whole.
"In this instaiiee tli( y had prijiared :\ cross to set u]) at the gr.ive. most |irobably
h.iviiig In in told to do so by some Iroi|uiiis liidi.ins. a few of whom, not in the
capacity of teachers, but as tr,i)>pers in the ein|>loy of tin- fur eoui|)anies, I saw west
of the mountains."
Apparently uneonseious of a spirit of bigotry, and uniniiiiHiil lh.it be was sewing
dragon seeds of discord that would bring fruits of bitter controversy between Pro-
testant and Citholie missions. P.irkcr .idded :
"As I viewed .-i cross of wood made by iiien's hands of no .-uail to biiiefit either
the dead or the living, .and f.ir more likely to ojierate as a salve to a guilty con-
science, or a step|iing stone to idol.ilry. tli.in to be understiHid in its spiritual sense
to refer to .1 erueifixion of our sins. I took this, which the Indi.aiis iiad [irepared. .and
broke it to pieces. I then told them that we place .i stone .it the head .and foot of
the gr.ive, only to lu.irk the jil.ace; and without a murmur, they cheerfully acqui-
esced, .iiid .adopted our eustoui. '
Twenty-six ye.irs after the return of Lewis and Clark, a deleg.ition of five Nez
Perces, two Spok.aiies ;ind prob.ably two or three I'l.ithe.ids. moved by a longing to
le.irn the w.ays of white civilization, .iiiil prntessing an e.iniest ilesin to ae(|uire the
gre.it "book" of which these ex))lorers li.id spoken, ventured .across the Rocky iiioiiii-
t.ains .and down the Missouri river to .St. Louis. There they found their ol<l friend
Captain Lewis, serving ;is Indi.in eoiiimissioner for the eiitiri- iiorthwist. ,iiid to liliii
iii.ide known their hearts' desire. Cl.irk w.is .a Catholic, and some of the liidi.nis
Iwcime converts to his faith, two of whom died there and received buri.il in conse-
crated ground. On tin ir return Jcnirnry these ml se.arehers for the truth experienced
severe hardshijis .and perils, .and Mver.al of them were either killed or eiisi.ived by
the w.irlike .and pred.itory .Sioux in the land of the Dakotahs. Only a remnant of
the deleg.ation survived to narr.ite to tin ir own people the stirring story of tin ir
ndvcntures and the wondrous sights tli.it li.id unrolled before their astonished vision.
Accounts of tliis extr.iordin.iry ]>ilgriiii.ige found their way into eastern news-
p.apers, .and .a|)pe.iled to mission ze.al. both I'rolest.inl .iiid Catholic. .Moved bv this
stirring ineideiit. the mission authorilii s of the Methodist l-'piscojial chureh the
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 63
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and the Catholic Order of
Society of Jesus, all planted vigorous missions in the Pacific northwest. The Meth-
odists sent out the two Lees, Jason and Daniel, uncle and nephew, who, with two
lay members, crossed the continent to found missions among the Indians east of the
mountains. They arrived on the Columbia river in 1834, and were persuaded by
Dr. John McLoughlin, chief factor of the Hudson's Bay company, stationed at
Vancouver, to alter their plans and establish their mission and school in the Willa-
mette valley.
One year later the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions ap-
pointed an exploring mission to the Pacific northwest, "to ascertain, by personal
observation, the condition and character of the Indian nations and tribes, and the
facilities for introducing the gospel and civilization among them." This society
was supported by the Congregational, Presbyterian and Dutch Reformed ehurclies,
and selected for its explorers, tlie Rev. Samuel Parker and several other volunteers.
They arrived at St. Louis in the spring of 1834, too late to join the annual expedi-
tion of the American Fur company. Two members of the party took up mission
work among the Pawnees, but Parker, liaving been joined in April, 1831, by Dr.
Marcus Whitman, the two traveled to Green river, in what is now the state of Wyo-
ming, under protection of the annual brigade of the fur company. On that stream,
at a point known as Rendezvous, Indians from both sides of the Rocky mountains,
together with traders and trappers from a wide expanse of country, were accus-
tomed to assemble for trade. Information gathered at the Rendezvous, from "moun-
tain men," white traders and Indians, convinced Parker and Whitman that various
tribes living west of the mountains desired missions and schools. It was thereupon
resolved that Dr. Whitman should return to the east to secure helpers, and Rev.
Parker continue west to i)re])are the waj'.
Upon his return to the "United States," Mr. Parker wrote and ])ublished an
informative, entertaining account of his journeyings "beyond the Rocky mountains."
He possessed keen powers of observation, a well trained analytical mind, and great
capacity for enduring weariness and hardships and adapting himself to savage life
.uid surroundings. In the course of his extensive travels, Parker explored the Spo-
k/uie country. He liad arrived at old Fort Walla Walla, on the Columbia, in the
latter part of May, 183,5. and having obtained Indian guides and two French voya-
r/eiirs as assistants, "concluded to take horses, and to go up througli the Spokein
country, leaving the great bend of the Columbia river to the left some fifty or sixty
miles. . . . On Sabbath, 22d, we had worship as usual, and the following day
commenced the journey for Colville."
The little party crossed Snake river near tlie moutli of the Palouse, by Parker
called the Pavilion river, ascended that stream, and jiassing north through the
Palouse country, came to the lands of the "S])okeins." "We stopped for the night,
after a ride of fifty miles, near one of these villages of Spokeins. Their language
differs almost entirely from any tribe or nation I have yet seen."
Father Cusliing Eells, who, with the Rev. Elkanah Walker, established the first
mission among the Spokanes. and labored with tliem for ten years, describes the
Spokane language as iiarsh and guttural. "It makes me think of persons husking
corn," was the expression made by one person on hearing it. "In this respect,"
writes Myron Eells, "it is very unlike the adjoining Nez Perce, which is soft and
64 SPOKAXF, A\D Till; IMAM) l.MPIHE
musical. It is also unlike the Nez Perce in its use of prepositions, the former hav-
ing manv aiul tin- latter almost none, their places bcinjr supjilied by tlie inflections
of the verb. "
"A few nouns form their plural by reduplication, and some are irregular. For
example, the word for man. skul-tu-mi-hu. becomes in the plural skul-skul-tu-mi-hu;
hand, kal-lish, is kil-kal-lish ; .and mountain, ets-im-nio-ko, is ets-im-mo-ko-mo-ko;
but woman, sem-ain, is pal-pil-kwi in the plural ; and tree, sa-at-kl, is sil-a-sil. The
plural for Indian, skai-lu, is the same, and that of boy is expressed by a numeral.
"There are no comparatives or .superlatives among the adjectives. If two
horses are placed side by side, one is bad and the other is good ; but if the better of
the two is compared witli another still better it becomes bad and the latter is called
good.
"Phrases are very common. Init not eoinpounded according to rule. It was nec-
essary to learn them by the power of memory, and these, in a great measure, take the
place of grannnar. In these phrases many contractions take place, and occasional
changes of letters, evidently for the sake of euphony.
"Tile language of the Spokanes is said to be the veritable I'lathead language,
and belongs to the Salishan family spoken by inany Indians, tliough not by all, be-
tween the Pacific ocean and the Rocky mountains, extending south of the Columbia
and north a little beyond its sources. The geogra])liy of this Salishan family covers
the greater portion of Washington southern Idaho and much of British Columbia,
though other families, as the Sahaptian, including the Nez Perces and Yakima, are
also used by the Indians of the state. . . . The Spokane language seems to
have less regularity and grammar than many others belonging to the Salishan fam-
ily, especially those on Puget Sound."
Parker and his little jiarty traveled through the Spokane woods and struck the
river about ten miles below the falls. They hallooed for a long time for the Indian
who kept a f<rry there, and after a while "two women came to the stream, and witii
uncommonly ))leasant voices, together with the language of signs, the latter of
whieli only I could understand, informed us that the ferryman was gone upon a
short hunt, would return in the evening, and the next morning at sun two hours high
he would conii' and take us over. I never heard voices more expressive of kindness.
I re(]uested them to ])addlp the canoe over to us. and my men would ))erform the
labor of ferrying over our baggage. They declined on account ol the rapidity and
strength of the current, the river In ing in full freshet. Tlierelore we had to en-
camp and wait for the morning."
Parker rcmnd "this a very |)leasant, open valley, though not extensively wide."
He visited the oh! trading |]ost of the Northwest fur eoniiianv, onlv oni' bastion then
remaining st.inding.
The following morning the ferryman crossed over at the ajjpointed hour, and
after ])assing the river they traversed "the valley of level alluvial soil," where it is
about a mile and a quarter wide, and the east side esj)ecially is verv fertile.
"Here the village of the Spokeins is located, and one of their mnnlier has com-
menced the cultivation of a sm.all field or garden, which he has planted with pota-
toes, peas and beans and some other vegetables, all of which were flourishing, and
were the first I had seen s))ringing up untirr Indian industry west of the mountains."
The .Sjiokanes .appear to havi- .-iltained a higher state of thrift and industry un-
JASON LEK'S MISSION IX THK WILLAilETTE VALLI'^Y
METIIOIHST .MISSION AT TIIK DALI.KS, K< Jl'NDKD IN ls:i,S
THE NEW »uhK
iPU3UC UBHAKY
1
L
FtLUt N f C
Li>*«X
'^y -'^w4TiO»^|
,, ^«£ W£W I'OftK
SPOKANE AXD THE INLAND E.MPIRE 65
der tutelage of the fur traders than was maintained in after years. It will be re-
called that the Astor party had brought seeds from Astoria and started at this point
a flourishing garden. A few years later the fur traders introduced wheat into the
Spokane valley, and when Governor Stevens came into the valley in 18J3 he found
extensive fields of tliat cereal and oats. Five years after, in 1858,, Colonel Wright,
as an act of reprisal and warning, burning several Indian granaries and vegetable
storehouses in the upper valley.
As Parker climbed an eminence leading out of the valley, and looked down into
the pleasant vale which bordered the winding river, he "drew in imagination a
picture of what this valley will be when' this people are brought under the influence
of Christianity and civilization."
They encamped that evening in a pleasant glade on the way to Colville, when
"manv Spokein and some Nez Perce Indians came riding into the place of encamp-
ment, and turned out their horses with ours in the half wood and prairie." The
Spokanes, who had seen him on his way, and learned the object of his mission, had
sent out runners with the information that a minister was passing through their
country, and as it was the first time a teacher of the gospel had ever come among
them, they were eager to see him and hear his message. This date, the 27th of
Mav, 1835, passes into history as commemorating the first preaching of the gospel
by an ordained minister in the vicinity of Spokane.
The Spokanes had brought with them as interpreter, "a young man of their na-
tion, who had been to school at the Red river settlement on the east side of the
mountains, and who had a very good knowledge of English." This description fits
Chief Garry, so nami d from the circumstance of his having been sent to Fort Garry,
in the Manitoba country, when a child, where he acquired a good command of the
English language.
"We had public worship that evening in the .Spokein and Nez Perce languages,"
Parker adds in his report. "One of the Nez Perces, a chief, understood the Spokein
language, and collected his people a little back of the Spokeins, and translated the
discourse as it was delivered, into the language of his people, without anv interiip-
tion to the service. This was a plan of their own devising. All the circumstances
combined were to me very interesting. If I had not been delayed the three several
times, they would not have had time to collect their people and overtake me. Some
of them had been engaged in the business of assembling and following a day and
a half. Many of them were unwilling to return, and expressed a determination to
go with me to Colville. What influenced these benighted Indians to manifest so
much solicitude in my instruction derived from the word of God? It must be the
influence of the Divine Spirit. And shall these influences pass unregarded and un-
improved.'"
A sixty mile ride the day following brought the party to old Fort Colville, on
the Columbia. "The situation of this fort," says Parker, "is on an elevated spot,
about fifty rods from the river, surrounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and
oiH-ning in every direction an extended prospect of mountain scenery ; and a half
mile below are Kettle Falls, above which the river spreads out widely and moves
slowly until just above the precipice, it contracts into a narrow channel, and disap-
pears from the view of the spectator, who beholds it at the fort; winding its way
among the rocks below. This establishment is built for defense and is well stock-
G6 Sl'OKANK AND THE INLAND I.MlMltK
adi'd. hut so friendly have the natives always been, that no wars liavc ever occurred
among them. It is occupied by some half dozen men with Indian families, and is
well su|)|jlied with the useful ,'inimals and fowls common to farming establish-
ments. The winter and summer grains, together with garden vegetables, are culti-
vated with success and in profusion."
This trading ])ost or fort, then in possession of tin liiidsnii's H.iy i(ini|).iiiy. h.icl
been established by the Northwest comjiany in 1811, and li.ul passed, witii thi- other
))osts of the Northwesters, to tlie Hudson's Hay ))eo])li- win ii they absorbed the
Northwesters.
As the day after his arrival was Sunday, P;irker conducted services for the
pco])le of the fort who understood English, "and we worshil)ped the God of our lives
who had protected us hitiierto, and from different nations had collected us in a
little group in this end of the world."
The service over, a number of the Indians galliered about tin- pre;ielier 'ami
expressed great an.xiety to be taught the revealed will of God." They endeavored
to make him understand their former beliefs and practices, and .-iHirmed that wliat
tliey had so far learned from him appealed to them as reasonable and satisfactory.
Parker was moved by this experience, which appealed powerfully to his intense
religious zeal, to inveigh against the coldness of the Christian world. "How little
of the faith, and love, and liberality of the church," he lamented, "is invested in the
most profitable of all enterprises, the conversion of the world. Siiould some one
propose the construction of a railroad from the Atlantic In tiic Pacific, and demon-
strate the practicability of the measure, and show th.it nature lias interposed no
effectual barrier, and tiiat it would concentrate not only tlie whole intmial. hut
also the China trade, and tlie stoct would |irn(luee annually a rich dividi nd. Iiow
soon would Christians eng.age in it."
It is somewhat singular that tins ))reaeli( r In the wilih riuss, profoundly stirred
by mission zeal, thus casually stumbled upon the i)recise arguments that later were
emj)loved by the promoters of the Nortiiern Pacific railroad to float the stock in
that vast industrial enterprise.
After a short sojourn at Colville, Parker followed the windings of the Columbia
to the mouth of the Okanogan. Tlure he purchased a bateau, and employing two
Indians to take his horses overland to old Port Walla Walla, descended tin Columliia
to Vancouver, and a few weeks later took p;iss;ige in a sailing vessel, via the Sand-
wich islands, for tlie Atlantic coast, arriving ;it his home in Ithaca, New York, on
the 2,Srd of .May, ".after an absence of more than two years and two months, ,ind
having journeyed '.iS.OdO miles."
His )niblishe(l reports (iit<r cxti iisjvcly into the eustciiMs of Indian ti'ilus. the
geologv, flora and fauna ni tin couiilry. eli.iraeter of soil, eliniate. etc. hroui those
reports we extract the following excerpts descriptive of the Indians of the interior
as Ihiy existed three fourths of a century ago:
"I'roci-itling north, wi- conn to the country of the Ne/ Perees, MJiieh has many
fertile parts ad;i|>ted to tillage, and all i\( which is a line gr.izing country. They
numiier about ij,;!>0().
"The Cavuscs arc situalid lo the west of tin Ncz Perees, and vi-ry nnich
resemble them in jierson, dress, habits and nior.ils. They .are equally |)e.iee.il)le,
honest and hospitable to strangers," an estimate that was iiardly borne out by Dr.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 67
Whitman's subsequent experiences. "They number more than 2,000 persons.
Tlieir wealth consists in horses, which arc usually fine and numerous, it being no
unconnnon thing for one man to own several hundred. Tiieir country, especially
about the Grand Round, is uncommonly fertile, producing spontaneously camas in
great abundance, upon which, with fish and some game, they principally subsist.
Their anxiety to be instructed in the way of salvation is as great as that of the
Nez Perces and Flatheads.
"The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about the river of the same name,
and range some distance below along the Columbia river. The number of per-
sons in this tribe is about 500. In their character, employment and moral habits,
they do not materially differ from the last named tribes.
"The Palouse tribes are a jiart of the Nez Perces, and in all respects are like
them. Their residence is along the Nez Perce river (the Snake) and up the
Pavilion (the Palouse). They numbered about 300. The four last named tribes speak
the same language, with a little dialectical diflerence.
"Northeast of the Palouses are the Spokein nation. They number about 800
persons, besides some small tribes adjoining them who miglit be counted a part of
their nation. Their country is very much diversified with mountains and valleys,
prairie and woods; and a large part is of primitive formation; some parts are very
fertile. They denominate themselves the children of the sun, which in their language
is Spokein. Their main dependence for subsistence is on fishing and hunting, to-
gether with gathering roots and berries. They have many horses, .but not so
numerous as their neighbors farther south.
"East of these are the Coeur d'Alene Indians, whose numbers are about 700,
and who are characterized by civility, honesty and kindness. Their country is
more open than the .Spokeins, and equally if not better adapted to agriculture.
"The country of the Flatheads is still farther east and southeast, and extends
to the Rocky mountains. They are a very interesting tribe, dignified in their
per.sons, noble, frank and generous in their dispositions; and have always shown
a firm attachment to white men. They number about 800 persons, and live a
wandering life. For subsistence they follow the buffalo upon tlie waters of Clark
and Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the headwaters of the Missouri. They
have become a small tribe by constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians; not that
they themselves are of a ferocious or hostile disposition. Being averse to war,
they wish to settle upon their lands, and are only waiting to be instructed in the
arts of civilization and in Christianity. Their country is mountainous, but inter-
sected with pleasant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are prairie. The
mountains are cold, but in the valleys the climate is mild.
"The Ponderas are so nearly like the Flatheads in person, manners and char-
acter that a iiarticular description of them may be passed over. They number
about 2,200, and live on the north of Clark's river, and on a lake which takes its
name from the tribe. Their country has many fertile parts, and would soon be
put under cultivation, if they could obtain instructors to teach them agriculture
and to impart to them a knowledge of those things which are necessary to con-
stitute a happy and prosperous community. Their language is the same as the
Spokeins and Flatheads.
"The Cootanies inhabit a section of country to the north of the Ponderas
68 SPOKAM: AM) llll. INLAND E.Ml'JRK
along -McGillivray's river, .iiid llicy arc ri-i>ri-seiitcd as an uncommonly interest-
ing people. They speak a language distinct from all the tribes about them, open
and sonorous, and free from gutturals, which are common in the language of the
surrounding tribes. They are neat in their persons and lodges, candid and lion-
est, and kind to each other. I could not ascertain their numbers, but probably
they arc not over a thousand.
"Xortii of the C'ootanics are the Carriers, whose number is estimated to be
4,000, and south of these are the Lake Indians, so named from tlieir place of resi-
dence, which is about the Arrow lakes. Tliey are about 500 in number.
"At the south, and about Colville, arc the Kettle Falls Indians. Tlieir num-
ber is 560. West of these are the Sinpauelish (the San Foils) 1,000 in number,
and below these are the Shooshaps, having a population of 575. At the west
and northwest, next in order, are the Okanogans, numbering 1,050. Between
Okanogan and the long rapids arc detachments of Indians who appear poor, and
wanting in that manly and active spirit wliieli characterizes the tribes above
named.
"South ot the long rapids, and to the conliuenec of Lewis' river (the Snake)
with the Columbia, are the Yookoomans (the Yakimas), a more active people,
tuniibering about 700.
"Tile whole number of the ahovi- named Indians is 32,585. This is probably
a low estimate, and in the number there are not included the Fall and La Dalle
Indians."
A general study ul the Indian missions of the nurlhwesl will not be permitted
by the scope of this liistory. We shall, however, enter into some detail with
regard to mission labors among tiie Spokanes, and to some extent into the mis-
sions conducted among neighboring tribes. A brief review of the events leading
up to the establishment, in 1837-8, of the Eells and Walker mission, on Walker's
prairie, twenty-five miles nortliwest of this city, will be found essential to a
clearer understanding of the systematic effort that was made three-fourtlis of a
centurv ago, to Christianize and civili/e tlie \arious bands that tlien inhabited
the region around the falls.
It will be recalled that Dr. .Mareu.-. \\ hilinan, wlio accompanied Parker to
the Rendezvous on Green river, returned to the east to stimulate interest in their
courageous undertaking, and secure volunteirs for the contemplat<d mission sta-
tions in the Pacific northwest. In this ell'ort he was successful in a most roman-
tic wav. winning at once a bride and .i mission helper in the jjerson of Miss Nar-
cissa I'rentiss, who was to share with him the ])erils and the pleasures of the
wilderness, and, eleven years after, fall with the devoted martyr before tlie deatil-
deaiing tomahawk of the treacherous Cayuses, at their Waiilatpu mission, six miles
from the existing city of W.ill.i Walla.
Additional hilpers were found in Rev. II. II. Spalding and wile, aimllier bridal
couple, and in \\ . II. dray, secul.'ir agent of tin,' American Board. Dr. \\'liit-
man, having learned that Mr. .Sp.alding .ind bride liad volunteered for mission
work :nni)iig the Osage Indians, .and obt.iined the consent of the mission board,
set out in .in effort to overtake them on their way to the land of the Osages and
induce them to change their i)Ians .and go with him to the Pacific northwest. He
came up with tlicui in the deep snows of western New York. They were travel-
SPOKANE AND THE IXLxWD EMPIRE 69
ing by sleigh, jyid !Mrs. Siialding, who was convalescent from a long illness, was
still unable to walk a quarter of a mile. With characteristic abruptness. Whit-
man called out:
"We want you for the Oregon mission."
"How long will the journey take.^" answered Spalding.
"The summer of two years."
"What convoy shall we have ?"
"The American Fur company to the divide."
"What shall we have to live on?'
"Buffalo meat till we raise our own grain."
"How shall we journey?"
"On horseback."
"How cross the rivers?"
"Swim them."
Mr. Spalding then turned from Whitman to his bride:
"'Sly dear," he said, "my mind is made up; it is not your duty to go, but we \vill
leave it to you after we have prayed."
The little party came presently to a tavern, and pausing there took a private
room and each prayed in turn. With beaming face Mrs. Spalding emerged after
a few minutes of prayer, and declared :
"I have made up my mind to go."
The husband lovingly remonstrated with her zeal, pointing out the hardships,
the jirivations and perils of the way, and as he reflected upon these dangers the
l)rave man broke down and cried.
"Wliat mean ye to weep and to break mine heart," was the bride's reply;
"for I am ready not to be bound only, but also to die at Jerusalem for the name of
the I>ord Jesus."
Such was the spirit that carried these resolute men and women into the Ore-
gon wilderness.
And so they came into tlie depths of the wildest west, and never before was
bridal journey like unto tliis.
Dr. and Mrs. Whitman established their mission in the Walla Walla valley.
The Spaldings located theirs at La))wai, in northern Idaho.
And still tlie ^Slacedonian cry went uj) for more workers in the heathen land,
and Mr. Gray returned east in 1837 to win the needed recruits.
In a time-stained book of records at Holden, Massachusetts, one still may
find this simjjle item:
"March 5, 1838. Rev. Cushing Eells. of East Windsor, Conn., and Myra
I'airbank were married liy William P. Paine."
Fired by religious zeal, the young eoujtle had volunteered for the African
missions of the American Board, but altered their life plans at the solicitation of
Mr. Gray. Rev. Elkanah Walker, of North Yarmouth, Maine, and Miss Mary
Richardson, to whom he was engaged, also abandoned their African plans to engage
in the work in the Oregon country. Rev. A. B. Smith, of Connecticut, and his
wife, likewise consented to come, and the matrimonial spirit running high, Mr.
Grav found a bride in Miss Mary Dix, of Champlain, New York. The jiarty
70 SPOKANl, AM) rill. IM.AM) LMl'IKK
was conii)lctfd liy tin- .■idditioii of Coriulius U(if,'i r-,, who ciiiii- in. the e.i]).uitv of
assistant missionary.
"On March C, tin- day afttr tliiir marriage," many years later wrote tlieir
son, the Rev. Myron Eells, "Mr. and Mrs. Eells began their bridal tour, which
was not completed for more than a year, until tlie last of Ajiril, 1839. Then they
were ready to receive callers in their own home of log huts or pens."
Trom Xew York, where the party had assembled, they traveled by boat and
train to Cliambersburg, Pennsylvania; from Chambersburg to Pittsburg, by stage;
and from Pittsburg to Independence, Missouri, by steamboats on the Ohio, the
Mississijjpi and the Missouri. As they were strict Sabbatarians, the question of
Sunday travel gave them deep concern, and taking counsel at Cincinnati with
Dr. Lyman Beeeher, that eminent divine dryly observed that if he were on a
ship on the ocean, be should not jump into the sea when Saturday night came.
At Westport, Missouri, twelve miles west of Independence, they found the
annual expedition of the American I'ur eoiiipany, under which they were to have
convoy to tlie Roeky mountains. Its caravan this year consisted of 200 horses
and mules and seventeen earts that were drawn each by two mules hitched tan-
dem. 'I'he missionaries had twenty-two horses .md nuiles. ,nul for a part of the
way a wagon, taken to enable tile ladies to find relief from horseback ridinj; until
they had grown tlioroughly accustomed to that mode of travel.
"We generally stop about two iiours at noon," wrote Mrs. Eells in her di.irv,
turn out the animals, get our dinners and eat; tin n we wasli the dishes again,
tile men catch the animals and pack them. We mount our horses and are riding
over rolling prairies, over high iiluffs, through deep ravines and rivers, but
through no woods.
"At night, when our .•iiiiiii.ils are uM|).icked, the gentlemen jjitcli our tetils. We
spread our buffalo skins first, .ukI tin n .i piece of oilcloth for our floor. 'I'luii we
neatly arrange our saddles and other loose baggage around the inside of our house.
For our eh.iirs we fold our bl.inkets and lay them around, leaving a circle in the cen-
ter upon wliieli wv spread a tableclolli « lieu we eat. In the morning we get up at
half-iiast three, turn the animals out to eat; then we get our breakfast, eat and have
worship. After this we wash and pack our dishes, our husbands catch the animals,
saddle the horses and pack the mules. When we are fairly on our way we have much
the a|)pearance of a large fuiier.il procession. I sii|)|)ose tlu eoinp.iny reaches li.ilf
a mile."
Buffalo iiie;it w;is the st.iple food, hut liiill'.ilo wen- not fiiuiirl tli.it spring .-is e.-irly
as had bien expected, and when the su|)ply came tlieir flour was all but exhausted,
barely sufficient rem.iining to make gr.ivy. The change to green buffalo meat proved
most trying, and the missionaries suffered intensely from illness, overwork and ex-
posure. Mrs. Eells wrote in her dl.iry, M.ay () : ".Ml is juibhub and confusion.
Camj) wants to move early; horses bad to catch; dislus not p.icked in season. Oh,
how much patience one needs to sustain him in this life."
And ag.iin, on M.ay 12: "It rains so hard that notwithstanding we have a good
fire we can not dry our clotlies at all. Obliged to sle.p in our blankets wet ,ts when
taken from our horses. Our sheets are our p.irtitions between us and Mr. (ir.iv.
When it rains they are spread over the tents.
"lath, Sabbath. Arise this morning, put on our elotiie.s wet as when we took
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 71
them off, and prepare for a long ride. I am so strongly reminded of bygone days
that I can not refrain from weeping.
"24th. Mr. Eells and myself hardly able to sit up. Init obliged to eat, drink and
work as though we were well. Think it is trying. . . .
"Nothing but the restraining grace of God can carry us through. I trust we
both have this grace."
They crossed the North Fork of tin- Platte in boats made of willow frames,
covered with buffalo hides. It rained here so hard that the camp was flooded, and
Mrs. Walker, though strong and vigorous, and ordinarily cheerful with a pleasant
word for every one, fell to weeping as she sat on a pile of goods within the tent. In
answer to efforts made to console her, she exclaimed, "I am thinking how comfort-
able my father's hogs are. '
June the twenty-third brought them to the American Rendezvous, on Wind river,
and there they remained for three weeks, surrounded by as wild and motley a com-
pany as ever drank bad whiskey, or engaged in the savage sports of the wilderness.
Mrs. Eells wrote, in her diary, July 5: "Captain Bridger came in about 10 o'clock
with drums and firing, an apology for a scalp dance. After they had given Captain
Drips' company a salute, fifteen or twenty mountain men and Indians came to our
tent with drumming, firing and dancing. If I might make the comparison, I should
tliink they looked like the emissaries of the devil worshiping their own master. They
had the scalp of a Blackfoot Indian, whicli they carried for a color, all rejoicing in
the fate of the Blackfeet in consequence of the smallpox. The dog, being frightened,
took the trail, crossed the river, and howled so that we knew him and called him
back. When he came back he went to each tent to see if we were all safe."
They had been terrorized the night before by a party of drunken white men who
came to the tent and threatened to settle accounts with Mr. Gray, with whom they
had previously been in altercation. While Gray loaded his gim within the tent, Mr.
Eells remonstrated with them and they went away and gave no further trouble.
Under date of July 6 Mrs. Eells made this entry in her journal: "Last night
twelve wliite men came, dressed and painted in Indian style, and gave us a dance.
No pen can describe the horrible scene they presented. I could not imagine that
white men, brought up in a civilized land, can appear so much to imitate the devil."
Hardships were endured, and dangers confronted, by the pioneer women who
came into the Spokane country forty years after these mission brides crossed the
continent and took up their abode near the pleasant river Spokane; but their expe-
riences when brought in contrast with the dangers and deprivations endured by Mrs.
Eells and ^Mrs. Walker, seem little more than an entertaining outing.
At the Rendezvous flour sold for $2 a pound; sugar, tea and coffee, $1 a pint;
calico, $5 a yard ; a shirt, $5 ; tobacco, $3 to $5 a pound ; and whiskey, $30 a gallon ;
and vet the wild rangers of the plains and the mountains drank whiskey and smoked
tobacco as though they had been millionaires and the price of these indulgences were
the normal rates going back in the United States.
From the Rendezvous on Green river the missionaries expected to have convoy by
a party of the Hudson's Bay company. This year, though, the American Fur com-
])any had become vexed over some grievance at the hands of the Hudson's Bay peo-
ple, and instead of meeting the latter at the customary gathering place on Green
river, had selected a rendezvous 150 miles north, on a tributary of Green river. By
72 Sl'OKAM'. AM) rill. INLAND l.Mi'iUi:
a narrow chance Mr. Ennalinger, in charge of the Hudson's Bay party, learned of
the altered plans of his rivals and the mission party was saved from the alarming
alternatives of returning with the American Fur caravan, of jroincr to California with
a party of trappers, or becoming stranded in the heart of the wildest part of the
Rocky luount-iins. When Mr. Ermatinger came to the Green river Rendez-
vous, he found, scrawled in charcoal on the old storehouse door, this significant in-
scription: "Conic to Po|>nazua on \\'ind river, and you will find plenty trade, wins-
key and white women." This told him the location of tiic mission party, and he
hastened tlurr- to put tlnni iiiiclcr tin- i)rotection of his brigade.
From this Ucndizvous ibcy started for the Oregon country on .Iul\' 12. On Sun-
day, July ii'i. Mrs. l''.ells wrote: "TIk- Iiuli.-ins arc about our tents before we are up,
and stay .-ibout .-ill d.iy. 'I'liiiik tlirv art- tin most filthy Iiuliaiis we have seen. .Some
of them have a butl.ilo skin .iround tlieni. .Mr. \\'alk(r read a sermon. ;ind although
they eould not undtrst.ind .1 word, they were still and paid good attention. They ap-
peared .iiiuiM (I ultli nur singing."
Thus the suiunur wore away, .and always it was travel, travel, travel; through
mountain passes, by rushing rivers, and on the wind swept plains of the Snake river
desert. But even a transcontinental journey of seventy-five years ago had ending,
and under date of Wednesday, August 29, appears this entry in Mrs. Eells' journal:
"Rode seven hours, thirty miles; arrived at Dr. Whitman's. Met Mr. Spalding
and wife, with Dr. Whitman and wnfe. anxiously awaiting our arrival. Tluy all
appear friendly, .and tri ,al us with f;-rcat hospitality. Dr. ^Vhitnlan's house is on the
W.alla ^^■.alla. Iweiity-five milts east of Fort W.iUa W.alla. It is built of adobe, mud
dried in tlie form of brick, only larger. I cannot describe its appearance, as I can
not compare it with .anything I ever saw. There arc doors and windows, but they
arc of the roughest material, the boards being sawed by hand and put together by
no carpenter, but by one who knows nothing about the work. There are a number
of wheat, corn and potato fields about the house, besides a garden of. melons and all
kinds of vegetables common to .1 g.ardin. There .arc no fences, then- liting no
timber of which to make them. The furniture is very primitive; the bedsteads .are
boards n.ailcd to the side of the house, sink-f.ashion : then some blankets and husks
make the bed: but it is good couip.ariil with tr.a\iling .acc'oinuiod.ations."
I'rom the Atl.antic co.ist the long journty h.ad consumed 177 davs; from the
Missouri river, 129. Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. .Spalding were the first white women
to cross the Rocky mount.iins. Mrs. Kells .and .Mrs. \\'alker were the ne.\t to achieve
an undertaking which well might have daunted the heart of a brave and rugged man.
Describing the Oregon country of 18.'J8, Rev. Myron Eells informs us that in
the broad expanse of wh.at ,arc now the states of Oregon, ^^'as]lington. Idaho and
Montan.a tluri- were only tliirln Ji Mltlcmcnts : the mission station of i)r. \\liitm;m
at Waiil.atpu in the W'.all.i Wall.a v.alhy. of Mr. .Sp.ahli'ng .at L.apwai among the Nez
I'ercis, of the .Methodists .al Thi Dalles .and near .S.alcni. and the Hudson's I5av com-
p.any forts at old I'orl W'all.i W.alla on the Columbi.i. Colville. I'ort H.all. Boise, Van-
couver, N'is(|ually. I uip(iu.i, .and Ok.anog.aii, and the settlement at Astoria. Eells
and Walker were to establish .a fourteenth, on Tsliiui.ak.ain creek, six miles north of
tlic Spokaiu- river, .ind about twenty-five miles from the f.alls.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 73
Wlien they arrived at the Whitman mission, there were only fifty Americans in
the country of whom thirty were connected with the missions. Great Britain and
the United States were in controversy over ownership of the greater part of the
Oregon country, and had struck a truce under a treaty of joint occupation. It was
even considered necessary for the missionaries to travel under passport.
CHAPTER VIII
FOUNDING A MISSION AMONG THE SPOKANES
EELLS AND WALKER MEET THE INDIANS AT CHEWELAH BIRTH OF FIRST AMERICAN
WHITE BOY IN OLD OREGON EELLS AND WALKER FAMILIES LOCATE AT WALKEr's
PRAIRIE, NEAR SPOKANE LIVING ON HORSE MEAT INDIAN CUSTOMS DESCRIBED
MISSION LIFE AT TSHIMAKAIN MISSIONARIES DEEPLY DISAPPOINTED MIDWINTER
FIRE HYMN AS SUNG BY THE SPOKANES.
AFTER a fortnight's rest at the Whitman mission. Walker and Eells started
northward, Sejitember 10, 1838, to explore the country preliminary to found-
ing a mission among the Spokanes. At Chewelah they rested over the Sab-
bath, meeting there many of the natives, and the next day pushed forward to Fort
Colville to seek the counsel of Archibald McDonald, factor in charge of the Hudson's
Bay establishment there, second only in importance to the greater establishment at
Vancouver under Dr. Joliii McLoughlin. At Colville the company grew annually
about i.OOO bushels of wheat, and maintained there a flour mill. Corn and vege-
tables were grown there in abundance, a large herd of cattle added to the domesticity
of the surroundings, and as tlie buildings were commodious, Mr. Walker exclaimed,
as the valley scene rolled in u|)on their vision, "a city under a hill."
Mr. ^IcDonald. a worthy, intelligent Scot, received them with great kindness, an
attitude he maintained so long as he remained in charge. He advised that the mis-
sion be located at Tshimakain, (the plain of springs) on the Colville- Walla
Walla road, a place combining the advantages of soil, timiier, water and accessibility
to the various bands of the Spokanes. Thither they went, and with Indian lielp, and
two axes borrowed from Colville, erected two log cabins fourteen feet long and about
twenty feet a])art. As winter was approaching, they suspended their work before
the cabins had lieen roofed in, and returned to Walla Walla, by w;iy of Spalding's
Lapwai mission.
There thev wintered witii their famibes, and there, on December 7, 1838, was
l}orn Cyrus Hamlin Walker, thought to be the first American white boy born within
the iioundaries of old Oregon. Alice, daughter of Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, drowned
in early childhood, was the first American white child born within the same bounda-
ries. :Much of their time was devoted that winter to study of the Spokane language,
the missionaries having for their instructor the famous Nez Perce chief Lawyer,
who understood that tongue.
Late in February came the chief of the Sjiokanes, with four men and four women,
to assist the ])artv in moving to their new liome, and on March 5, 1839, the wedding
7G SI'OKANK AND THK INLANH KMI'IHF,
aimixHTsary of hotli coui)lts. tlicy set their faces nortliwaril on tin- jouriuy to Tslii-
makaiii, arriving there on Marcli 20.
Tents were j)itched, and a messenger dispatched to Colville for provisions, ami
with these came back an urgent invitation from Mr. .McDonald for the ladies and
baby to become his guests while their husbands were conii)Kting their cabin homes.
The invitation was accepted, and it was the last of Ajiril wluii they returned and
set U)) housekee))ing.
.At first the houses liad only eartlien floors, and pine boughs served for roof. .\s
the spring rains quickly penetrated this rough shelter, earth was put upon the
boughs; and still the roofs leaked, so bearskins were s])rea(i updii the beds to keep
dry "our first families" near Spokane.
The lu.xury of a cookstove was unknown throughout the nine years' life of the mis-
sion at Tshimakain. In lieu of window glass, cotton cloth, and later oiled deerskin,
were used. A few years later there was much rejoicing over the receipt of a few
panes of glass, sent in sailing vessel around the Horn by Massachusetts friends, and
transported, with infinite care, to the distant interior.
Tor nine years the mission could bo.ist of only a single chair. Three boards, tiiree
feet long, were packed I.'jO miles, .iiid by driving four stakes into the ground, a table
was constructed. Timber, riven and hewn, was used for other furniture.
In all the Oregon country there were two flour mills, both owned by the Hud-
son's Bay company, one at Colville, the other at Vancouver. Flour at the Whitman
mission was M-orth $24 a barrel. With the harvesting of the first crop of wheat at
Tshimakain, the grain was taken in buckskin bags to Colville for grinding. "It was
only seventy miles distant, and they could go and return in five days."
The plough was homemade, with rawhide on the singli trti s in place of iron, .ind
for nine years the wheat crop was etit with sickles.
"The beef," according to Myron Kells, "neither chewed the cud nor jiarted the
hoof. It was made out of the Indian pony. Cattle were very scarce. Neither love
nor money could procure one from the Hudson's Bay company, .\bout half a dozen
horses were killed for beef at Dr. Whitman's during the winter of 1838-39. and for
several years Mr. Kills was accustomed to salt one down every winter. Tliev were
fattened on the rich bunch-grass, and with few e.\cei)tions were eaten with a relish,
even by the fastidious."
.Mrs. 1-lells once wrote: "I h.-id the luxury of eating a jjiece of the first cow
th.'it was driven into tile country."
I'ire w.-is made M-ith flint, steel .md punk. .Mail from the east was brougiit out
twice a year in vessels of the Hudson's Bay company. That for the mission was
sent up the Columbia to old Fort Walla Walla, and when the missionaries learned
of its ,'irrival there, they would "go to the postofliee," 200 miles away, the round trip
taking two weeks,
hi .January, 1S44, Mrs. Eclls wrote to her sister in Massachusetts: "Your letter
(laird .'September, 181-1, I received .July, 1843, a long time, sure enough, but, as the
Indians say, 'I am thankful to get a letter of any date.'" To the s.ame sister she
wrotf, in .\pril. 1847: "I have just iie.ii reading your sisterly letter of December,
18U, and .ilthough it was written more than two years ago, yet since it is the last
I have heard from you, it is like reviving conversation and talking of past events."
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 77
111 a kttcr written from the Whitman inissioUj soon after their arrival there in
tile fall of 1838, Mrs. Eells recorded her impressions:
"The country is large, and there are comparatively few inhabitants in it. The
Hudson's Bay company has a number of trading posts, which are generally about
300 miles apart. Mr. Spalding and Dr. Whitman have each a station about 125
miles apart. The Methodists have two stations — one 150 miles, and the other 4.00
miles from here. Besides these settlements, there are no others in this great territory.
Of course the people of each settlement must raise their own provisions, make their
own furniture, farming utensils, houses and barns. Everything of cloth is brought
from some foreign port. There is nothing yet to make cloth of, and if there were,
there is no way to manufacture it. Had I known there is not a spinning wheel in
this whole country, I should have been exceedingly anxious to have one sent with
my other tilings. There are very few sheep here, and more have been sent for from
California. Dr. Whitman has raised a little flax, though not much, for want of
seed.
"There never having been any white women here before the missionaries, there
has been no call for anything but Indian articles of trade. The men wear striped
cotton or calico shirts, sleep in Indian blankets and buffalo skins, and of course
have had no need for white cotton cloth, and have none.
"Mrs. Wliitman and Mrs. Spalding have obtained some eartliern dishes, but think
it doubtful whether we can have any others until we order them from England, or
the States. Perhaps you will wonder what we shall eat with. We have the dishes
we used on the way, which we have divided so that we shall each have a tin dish
and a spoon, each a knife, fork and plate. We must be contented with what books
we have until ours come around Cape Horn.
"The Indians are numerous, but they live a wandering life. They live upon
game, fish and roots, which are found in many different places. They have no houses,
but live in lodges made of sticks set in a circle in the ground, and drawn together
at the top and fastened with a string, leaving a place at the to)i for the smoke to
l)ass out. Over this frame they throw skins, grass, willows and the like, which make
their covering. They build their fire upon the ground, in the center, around which
they live and sleep. They generally have one kettle, in which tlicy boil their fish,
meat, corn and potatoes, if they have any. None of them have corn and potatoes ex-
cept what the}' get from some of the above-named settlements. Not many of them,
have an}- dishes, knives or forks or spoons of any kind. They eat standing, with the
kettle in the middle, their hands supplying the place of all dishes. They will often
]ierform a long journey for a knife or blanket.
"They have learned of !Mr. Spalding and Dr. Whitman some scripture history
and some hymns, which they sing. They have not yet had much time to teach them.
Icing obliged to do most of their work. It is true the Indians help them some, but
they cannot be depended upon. They are here today, and tomorrow they are some-
where else. Besides, if they think you are depending on them, they will not work
unless they are driven to it by hunger. Some of them are beginning to sow little
jiatches of corn, wheat and potatoes for themselves; this the men have done and are
proud of it: but if a man works for us, they call iiiiii a slave and a fool. Three or
four have given evidence of a change of licart.
"We feel that we are a small band of missionaries in a heathen land, far re-
78 SrOKANK AM) 1111. IM.AMJ K.Ml'lRK
moved from tlic luxuries and many of the comforts of life, and we feel more keenly
the alisenee of civilized and Ciiristian society."
.Mr. Eells, under date of l'"ebruary 25, ISIO, wrote of their labors among the
Sjjokanes: "We are advancing slowly in the acquisition of the language, though as
yet our knowledge of it is very liinit<(i. . . . The I'latliead (Spokane) and the
Nez Perec languages are distinct, 'riuir ])hil(ih)gieal construction is wIkiUv unlike.
We liave not l)een ahle to (ind any one word common to both languages.
"Taking tliis |)]ace (Tshimakain) .as tile center of a circle whose radius shall not
exceed sixty miles, it will includr a pciliulatinn of near '..'.000 souls, iiiui-trntli^ of
whom rarely, if ever, leave the .above sjiecitied ground for a length of time, unless
it be for ;i few weeks in the s])ring. There are five or six bands, each of which has
particul.ir i.iniis wliieli tiny call theirs, and wlnre tluy pass a portion of each year.
So far :is i cm learn, they .are somewh.it regular in their removings.
"In April a large number meet in one plain to dig a root called popo. In .May
they returned to this place, and after remaining a few weeks, moved to a large camas
|)l.ain, ten miles from us. The camas is their most substantial root. It remains good
from May till the next -March. In .June, salmon begin to go up the Spokane river,
which passes within six miles of our house. At first a barrier was constructed near
some falls, ten miles from this jjlaee, .and perhai)s fifteen miles from the c.imas
grounds. At tiiat ])lace salmon were taken only during high water, and then not in
large quantities, as the barriir i\tiii(l<(l only part of the way across the river. While
the men and boys were em|)loye(l at the s.iliuon, the women were digging and prepar-
ing cam.as, and d.iily horses j)assed between the two |il,iccs, loaded both ways, so
that all could sh.ari- in hoth kinds of food. .\s the w.'itrr Irll aiiotlur barriir was built
f.artlicr down, extending across the entire river; .and when comiileted, men, women
.and children made a general move to the ))l;ice. If I judged correctly, I saw there
atone time near 1,000 persons, .and the nuniln r was rajiidly increasing. I'rom 100
to 800 s.'ilmon were taken in a day, wt ighing variously from ten to forty jjouuds
,api<ce.
'AN'hen they ceased to t.ake salmon, about the (Irst of .\ugust. thev returned to
the c.im.as ground, where they rem.ained till October, and then began to make ]irepa-
rations for taking the poor salmon as they went down the river. During this month
they were very nuieh scattered, thougli not \ i ry remote from each othi r. In No-
vember they went to their wintering ])laces.
"l''rom .March to Novi-mber, our congregations xaricd troin .'lO to 100,
not more (ban one liali of wiioMi usually reniainiii with us during tin- week.
Tluy often came tin. fil'teeii, .and sometimes thirty miles on .Saturday, .and returned
.again on .Monday. .Since November nearly 'JOO have reniainid with us almost con-
stantly. In .addition to those just nirntionid. th. it liaxe been frec|uciit xisitors from
neighboring b.ands, coming in various numbers, trom three or four to sixtv .at ;i time.
They usn.ally s|)end two or three weeks and then return.
"We liave habitually eonduelid worsliip uilh Ihnn umrning and iviiiing. wiu-n we
rend a portion of scriptures, .and, so f.ar .as we are able, explain it, sing .and Jiray.
On the ,S;il)balli we have h.ad three siTviees. While the weather continued warm,
the pl.iee for worship w.is under some pine trees; but as it became cold, a house
was prep.ireil for entirely by the i>eoph', expressly for worslii)). It resembled some-
what in form the roof of a house in New I'.ngland, m.aking the angle at the top
REV. ELKAXAH WALKER
A
f i Sr'' '
REV. GUSHING EELLS MRS. MVl;A F. J';i;i.LS
PROTESTANT MISSIONARIES ON WALKER'S PRAIRIE
• THE NEW Vc;> .
•PUBLIC LlBkAh
I
1
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 79
much smaller than tliat of most modern houses. The frame is made of poles four or
Ave inches in diameter, and covered with rush mats. Most of the Indian houses here
are made in the same way.
"For want of a thorough acquaintance with the language, much of the instruc-
tion communicated has related to scriptural history, though I think we have not
failed to give them some correct ideas respecting the character of God, the fallen
state of man, the doctrine of the atonement and regeneration, and the necessity of
repentance and faith in Christ to secure salvation. It is strictly true that they must
have 'line upon line;' every new idea must.be repeated many times. The nearer our
teaching approaches to Sabbath school instruction, appropriate for small children,
the better it is understood. This people ar^ slow to believe that the religion we teach
extends farther than to the external conduct. They- wish to believe that to abstain
from'gross sin and attend to a form of wor.^|iip' i'.s all that is necessary to fit them for
heaven."
In this respect, the Spokane attitude towards the life religious was not altogether
at variance with that entertained by some good people of the present day.
Throughout the journals, diaries and correspondence of the missionaries at
Tshimakain, at Lapwai and at Waiilatpu, one finds abounding evidence, that in an
excess of zeal and a severe application of "the New England conscience," these devout
men and women had keyed too high their expectations of savage response to theo-
logical refinements and subtleties. Because the Pentecostal fire could not flame in the
Indian breast, they grieved and lamented. Often their way seemed dark, their life
work a failure, their missions, perhaps, a mistake. So late as October, ISl?, Mrs.
Eells wrote: "We have been here almost nine years, and have not been permitted to
hear the cries of one penitent, or the songs of one redeemed soul. We often ask our-
selves the question, 'Why is it?' Yet we labor on, hoping and waiting, and expect-
ing tliat the seed, thougli long buried, will spring uj) and bear fruit. We feel in-
creasingly interested in the work, and though we do not see the immediate fruit of
our labor, we can not find it in our hearts to leave our people. We can not say that
they have persecuted us so that we should lie authorized 'to flee to another city.'
They listen to the word respectfully, but it appears to produce no saving effect."
Two months after the writing of this letter. Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, their as-
sistant, Mr. Rogers, and eleven others, chiefly immigrants stopping at Waiilatpu,
were massacred by treacherous Cayuses, the little mission band at Tshimakain took
asylum at Fort Colville, and, a few nionths later, acting under the insistent advice of
tlie Oregon authorities, abandoned their station • forever, and under military escort,
found refuge and new homes in the Willamette valley. Thus ended, in despair and
darkness, a decade of faithful, earnest effort, and to the distressed and disappointed
missionaries it well may have seemed- that at! their good seed of ten years' sowing
iiad fallen upon stony ground. But many years later we find Governor Stevens,
I>ieutenant Wilkes of the United States navy. General O. O. Howard and others
giving testimony to the enduring and beneficial results of the mission among the
Spokanes.
Returning to the Eells journal, we learn that in November, 1839, a school
was opened, at first with but tliirty ))U|)ils, but grown by A|)ril following to more
than eighty. That first year at Tsiiiniakain brought incessant toil and countless
privations. Cabins were made habitable, ground was broken and prepared for
80 SPOKANE AM) IIIl. INLAND EMPIRE
gardni and wheat field, fciict-s built to protect the crops from the Indian horses,
long journeys were made to Eort Colville on the north and old Eort Walla Walla
on the south; and superimposed upon all this and much more was the real work
of the mission, the preaching and the teaching, the study of the difficult Spokane
language, and the imparting of agricultural and manual instruction to such of
the natives as were willing to receive it.
".My opinion," said Eather Eells at that period, "is that our chief efforts
should be with the children," a method adopted afterward by government, and
found, after many years of experience, to return disappointing results, owing
to the disposition of the adults to ridicule the young people on their return from
Carlisle, Eorest Grove and Salem, and shame them back to the blanket and the
tepee. And yet, after three-fourths of a century of experiment and testing, it
cannot be said that a better plan offers than that recommended by Mr. Eellsi
The mission work went on, with trials and tribulations. "On the morning
of January 11, 1840," wrote Mr. Eells, "we met with a heavy loss. While en-
gaged in family worship our house took fire, and being mostly lined with rush
mats, and having no inside doors except cloths hung up, the flame spread so
raj)idly that it went through every part of the building before an article was re-
moved. After the first flash had passed such things as were in boxes were mostly
saved. But before anything was taken out the greater part of the more valuable
property which the house contained was nearly destroyed, such as library, writ-
ing desk, clock, watch, two beds and bedding, much personal clothing, a quantity
of Indian goods, tinware, riding and pack saddles, traveling ai)paratus, etc. Our
food was mostly saved. The walls of the house, built of rough logs, were not
essentially injured, except in being badly charred upon the inside."
In the face of this disaster, the spirits of the mission workers must have
fallLii correspondingly to the zero temperature without, lor tiic thermometer reg-
istered eight below. Hut there was a silver lining even to tiiis dark cloud of mis-
fortune; for the Indians responded to tlie alarm with commendable promptness
and energy, constituting themselves the first volunteer fire brigade in the Spokane
country, and exhibiting jidmirable honesty in restoring small articles which might
easily have been concealed from the owners. And Mr. McDonald, in charge at
Colville, with characteristic goodness, dispatched, without asking, four men from
his fort who soon made the burned house habitable, and with them came also two
gentlemen from that post, .Messrs. McLean and McPlierson. With the tempera-
ture ten below zero, and a foot of snow over the country, the six volunteers
camjied on the ground, .-m exhibition of kindness .uid fortitude that was deeply
ap])reeiatcd. "This is but a specimen of the unvaried kindness shown us by tile
gentlemen of the company with which we have had no particular intercourse or
eoniicction," said Eather Eells.
Writing at this date of mission results, Mr. Eells said: "During the past
unnter nearly 250 Indians have been encamped by us. If we judge correctlv.
there has been a marked increase in the knowledge of Divine Truth. This is
especially true of the chief mentioned in the Herald by the name of Big Head.
It lias been a rather general impression among the best-informed Indians that
tliieves, gamblers. .Sabbath-breakers and such like will go to a place of misery
when they die, but that such as arc not guilty of o|)en vices, and attend to a form
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE
81
of worslii]) will go above. We have labored inueh to correct this and kindred
errors, and unless we greatly mistake, our labor has not been in vain. The lan-
o-iiage of tlie chief is: "I formerly thought my heart was good, but I now see it
is not. We are full of all manner of wickedness — are covered up in our sins.
They hold us like strong cords. One thing must be done. Our hearts must be
changed, or we shall go below when we die.' "
In the school instruction was given in reading, spelling, arithmetic and music,
the pupils, both young and old, showing quick aptitude in numbers and mani-
festing a passionate love for music. From the fur traders the Spokanes had
picked u]) a number of lewd songs, and the missionaries tried to supplant these
with hymns and sacred songs. They began with the doxology, and the Indian
voice showed sufficient compass to sing it in three octaves in F. Then Mr. Eells
composed the following hymn, words and music, and it proved popular, the natives
clinging to it many years after the mission had been abandoned and their instruc-
tors had taken up new liomes in Oregon. Mr. McLean of the Hudson's Bay com-
panv heard Indians singing it in the heart of the Rocky mountains.
Lam - a - lem,
Thank.s . . .
on - a
thee .
we
ho
ho
vah,
vah,
-^^
Kain - pe - la, tns
We not
-^^
ca - leel. Rait - si - ah
. dead. We . . . all
\t
:i:
w
wheel
a
wheel,
live.
Kain
We
pe
la
s
i
p^
ets
ni
ko
nam.
kaits
We .
chow,
pray.
CHAPTER IX
MISSION LIFE AT WALKERS PRAIRIE, CONTINUED
SEVERE WINTER OF 18-10-41 ARDUOUS JOURNEYS BY FATHER EELLS GOING TO COL-
VILLE FOR MAIL DR. WHITMAN'S FAMOUS MIDWINTER RIDE DISCOVERY OF THE
PRECIOUS METALS MOTHERS' MEETINGS SEVENTY YEARS AGO DREADFUL WINTER OP
1846-i7 NO NEW BONNETS FOR EASTER SUNDAY FIRST SHOES FOR THE CHIL-
DREN HOW THE MISSION WOMEN MADE CHEESE INDIAN WIFE WHO WAS "a
JEWEL OF RARE EXCELLENCE."
SO SEVERE was the winter of 1810-11 tliat only fifty Indians remained at
the mission, and the attendance at the scliool fell to eleven. But another
school, maintained at a point five miles from the mission, and attended almost
daily by some one from the mission, had an attendance of twenty-two. In the last
analysis Indian nature is not essentially different from white nature; is charmed
by novelty, and the mind grows dull by tedious repetition; and though the school
was continued, it never afterward numbered more than fifteen.
With that indefatigable zeal and energy which attended him throughout a
long life of intense religious endeavor, ^Ir. Eells traveled, in the year ending
^larch 1, 1811, 1,200 miles on horseback, work which took him from home fifty-
seven days. Teaching Indians at other points required 400 miles additional travel
and twenty-three days more absence from home. He has left an interesting ac-
count, in the Walla Walla Watchman of March 27, 188,'), of one trip made to
Fort Colville with mail. "With our limited facilities, the annual autumnal passage
of the brigade of the Hudson's Bay company from east of the mountains down the
Columbia was an im))ortant event. Its arriv.al at Fort Colville was to be pre-
pared for. Thus an opjiortunity was afforded for the conveyance of letters to
Vancouver, and thence via the Sandwich islands to Boston. I had written and
arranged with an Indian to accompany and assist me in conveying the mails, and
in conveying supplies from the fort. In vain I looked for the arrival, according
to jiromise, of the needed helper. The morning hours passed. The idea of not
forwarding what I h.ad Jjrepared was unendurable. On a riding horse, with pack
mule carrying tent, bedding, food, I started. The moon was at its full. After a
ride of forty miles I camped. Seasonably the next morning I was traveling. The
distance, thirty miles to the ])ost, was passed. The boats had not arrived. Mj'
mail was left, and I returned twenty miles.
"The fifty miles for the next day should be commenced early, as the last fifteen
miles were darkened with timber. The moon would not rise till more than two
83
84 si'dKwr wD'i'iii; iM.wi) i.Mi'iin'.
hours after siinsft, ami it was cloiiilv. Witii siu-ii tacts in mind I encamptd. I
slept. I awoke; iiiv first tliouglit was, it is daylip;iit. The moon was conceaKii
behind tile clouds. Hurriedly I struck tent, saddled. |)aeked and was off. After
riding .in indefinite length of time the location of the on w.is (liseeriiilile. .ludg-
ing thus, it w.-is not f.ir from midnight. After .1 noilurn.il ride of ten miles, I
lay down again and slept without fear of being benighted in dark timber. The
distance traveled was 11-0 miles; length of time, a little in excess of two days
and a h.alf, with object attained and mail taken to postofliec."
To enter into the long-staniiiiit;- Wliitnian eoiitrovrrsy is not witliiii tin |iiir-
view of this history.* Respecting Dr. Whitman's memorable mid-winter ride across
the continent volumes have beiii written -to show that its object was p,atriotic, to
wrest the Oregon country from impending British ownership; and, on the other
hand, to ])rove that liis controlling motive w.is preventimi ol ab.indonment of the
Oregon missions by the American Ho.ird. and the ])art lie played politically had
little or no bearing in saving Oregon to tlie United States. But since Eells and
W.alker were called into counsel with Whitman, and went to Walla Walla at his
summons, regard for at least approxim.ite completeness of the Tshimakain record
requires the jniblication here of an affidavit made by Mr. Eells, before a notary
iniblie ;it .Sjiokane, August 23, 188.*?, in part as follows:
".September, 18V2. a letter written by Dr. Whitman, .addressed to Rev. Messrs.
E. WalkiT .111(1 C. Eells. .at 'rsbiiiiakaiii. re.ulied its destination and was received
by till persons to whom it w.as written. By the contents of .said letter, a meeting
ot the Oregon mission of tlie .Vmerie.in Bo.ird of Commissioners for Foreign Mis-
sions was invited to be Ik lil .it \\iiilat|)ii. Tlie object of said meeting, as stated
in the letter named, was to .approve of ,1 purpose formed liy Dr. Whitman, that
he go east on behalf of Oregon .as related to the United .Stales. In the judgment
of Mr. WalkiT .■iiul myself, lli.il olijcet w.is foreign to our .assigned work, ^\'itll
troubled thoughts we .inlieip.ited the proposed meeting.
"On the following d.iy. Wi-dnesd.iy. we started, .and on S.iturd.iy afternoon
camped on the Toiieliet. .it tin- ford iie.ir the Mull 111 bridge. We were pleased
with the prospect of enjoying .1 period of rest, refleetion anil prayer — needful
Jirejiaration for the .iiitagoinsni of opposing ide.is. ^\'e never iiioved eanip on
the Lord's d.iy. On Mond.iy inoriiiiig wi- ,irri\i<i at W.iiil.itpu. and nut there
the two resident families of Dr. Whitm.an and Mr. (Jr.iv. l{i\. II. 11. S|ialiliri<'-
w.as there. .Ml the iii;ile iiieinliers of the mission were (lius together.
"In the diseiissinn the ii{iiiiinii of Ml-. W.ilker .111(1 myself reiii.ailled iinelialiged.
The purpose of Dr. Wliitin.iii was fixed. In his estiin.it ion, tlie s.i\ ing of Oregon
to the I lilted .St.ates w.as of p.ir.iiiioniit iiiiport.inee. .inil lie would m.ike the .attempt
•A roiioliition adopted by tlie IPKislatme nf Wasliiiiytun lenjlniy. in October, ISIH), as.
Hortod tliat Dr. Wliitnian, "knowing tlie vast ro!-(inrc(^s ami mineral w(>altli of Oregon terri-
tory, anil tJie intention of the governinont of the United States to dispose of the same for
a trivial eonsideration, to the governnient of Great Britain, from not being aware of tlio
iininonHe value . . . did, in the dead of winter, at his own private expense, cross the
eoiitinent amid tlie snows of the Rocky mountains and the bleakness of the intervening plains,
inhabited liy savage Indians, and reached Washington City and informed the government of
the United States of the great value of said territory, and thereby prevented the sale and
loss of said lerritorv to the United States."
TSHLMAKAIN, AS SKETCHED BY (iKAY, 1S4:!
TSIIIMAKAIX, AS SKETCHED BY AETIST WITH OOVERXOR
STEVENS' EXPEDITION, 1S53
r
THE »(IW yoi»K
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 85
to do so, even if lie li.ul to withdraw from the mission in order to accomplish his
purpose.
"In reply to considerations intended to liold Dr. Whitman to his assigned
work, he said, 'I am not expatriated by becoming a missionary.' The idea of his
withdrawal could not be entertained; therefore to retain him in the mission a vote
to approve of his making the perilous endeavor prevailed. He had a cherished
object for the accomplishment of which he desired consultation with Rev. David
Greene, secretary of correspondence with the mission at Boston, ]\Iass., but I
have no recollection that it was named in the meeting. A part of two days was
sj)ent in consultation. Record of the date and acts of the meeting was made.
The book containing the same was in the keeping oi the Whitman family. At the
tunc of their massacre, November 29, 18-i7, it diStapp^aWd.'' ' ' ,
Long before the purpose or the results of Dr. Whi'WaVi's journey had been
called into question. Father Eells wrote an extended statement for publication in
the Missionary Herald of December, 1866:
"The Hudson's Bay company," he said, "was aware at an early date of the
existence of mineral deposits in that portion of Oregon claimed both by England
and the United States."
Some of its men had early discovered the extensive lead outcropjiings, on
the shore of Kootenai lake in southern British Columbia, which in after years
were to be located, under the mineral law, as the famous Bluebell mine.
"If I remember correctly, ' continues Mr. Eells, "I had not been long in this
country before the statement was made that gold had been found on the Colum-
bia river, taken to England, made into a watch seal, brought back here, and worn
by a gentleman connected with the Hudson's Bay comiiany." That the existence
of gold in the country east of the Cascade mountains was known to representa-
tives of the fur coni])any long jjrior to the discovery of that metal at Sutter's
mill in California, can scarcely be doubted, but for obvious prudential reasons it
was not to the interest of the Hudson's Bay company to exploit the important
fact.
"In those early days," testifies ^Ir. Eells. "Dr. Whitman made in my hearing
the following statement: 'There is no doubt that this country abounds in the
precious metals.' In the autumn or early winter of 1813 a German botanist was
traveling with em|)loves of the Hudson's Bay company, and having had some
knowledge of mining operations in Germany, he expressed to his fellow travelers
the opinion that ])r(cious metals existed in a designated locality. They replied,
'We know such to be the ease from actual investigation.' But while the resources
of the country were measurably appreciated, special effort was made to produce
till- impression that the country was of small value, and that much of it was
worthless.
"Previous to 181.'?, Mrs. McDonald, at Fort Colville. had a collection of min-
eral specimens, a jjortion of which she presented to Mrs. Eells. These were sliown
to Dr. Whitman on bis return in 18 IS.
"An unyielding purpose was formed by Dr. Wliitman to go east. The mission
was called together to consider whether or not its approval could be given to
the proposed undertaking. Mr. Walker and myself were decidedly ojjijosed, and
we yielded only when it became evident that he would go, even if he had to become
86 S.I'OKANK ANO TlIK INLAND E.MI'JIU.
discoiincitrd from tlic mission in order to do so. According lo the uiiderst.indiiiji of
till- mi-mi)trs of the mission tlic single object of Dr. W'hitm.in in att(iii))tinj.f to
cross the continent in the winter of 18l-'J-.'i. amid miglity pn-il -ind siitfering.
was to make a des|)erate etl'ort to save this country to the United States."
They h.'id mothirs' meetings, and a "Columhia Maternal association." lierc
in the ImLiikI I'.iiipiri-. haei\ in 18.'J8. It was organized soon .-ifter the arrival of
Mrs. Walker .ind .Mrs. Kells .it the Whitm.in mission, with six members. By
18t2 seven others ii.id joined it. including the wives of two members of the Hud-
son's Bay eomp.iny.
".'sensible of the evils that beset the young mind in a heathen land (so ran the
pre.imble) and confident that no arm but God's can secure our children or those
comniitted to our can- from thi- daugers that surround thrui ami bring them early
into the fold of ( hrist and tit them for usefidness here .and glory hereafter, we,
the subscribers, .agree to form ourselvis into an association for the purpose of
adopting such rules as are best cileul.ated to assist us in the right i)erform,iuee of
our matern.il duties."
Climatically the mission was nut well Impaled .at W.alkcr's pr.-iirie. 'I'lie crojis
at Tshimakain sutlrred from frosts, .iiid the winters were longer and more severe
tli.an at more f.avored s])ots in the v.allcy of tin- ."^jxik/iue. 'I'li.il of lSl()-7 w.is
particularly rigorous.
"The |)ast winter has been the most severe in the uiinuiry of the oldest In-
dians," wroti' Mrs. Eells: "The snow beg.in to f.ill .about tlu' middle of November;
about the uiiddle of December it was not far from two feet deep, and it continued
to increase to the first of M.ireli. I'or more than li\c- uioiitbs the r.irtli w.is elotlud
in ;i robe of white; for more than three months we were liter.ally buried in snow;
all the west side of our bouse w.as banked to the roof, and would have been dark
only that the snow was shoveled from the windows."
Mission work among the Irulians w.is ])r,acticrilly suspended that dreary win-
ter. The meeting house was closed from the 17th of .January to the last Sunday
in .M.ireli, .ind even then .Mr. I'.ells went on snowshoes to opiii it. It was so cold
the first of M.arcb that the air cut like a knife, and even at tli.it l.ite date in win-
ter the missionaries found it hard to keep comfortable in their c.ibin homes, not-
withstanding fuel was .ibund.-iiil .and they heaped high the supply (Ui the broad
firepl.ices.
" 1' roll! till iiiidillr ni DrecUlber till Well into .Vpril iiicii. woiiieii .iiiil ehildrell
traveled on snowshoes. With gre.at dillieully Mr. W'.ilkir .inil Mr. I'clK in] their
horses and cattle, but by econouii/ing in feediug they s.aved .all their horses but
one, though twelve of their cattle died of st.irv.itioii. "We li.ive, however," wrote
Mrs. I'jcIIs, "had .an .abundance of the necessaries of life. ,iiicl uku-i nt its luxuries
th.in li.as sometimes f.illeii to our lot." Me.asured by present day st.indards of
luxurious living, few indeed must have been their luxuries that winter at Tshima-
k.'iiii.
'I'lie Indi.ans suffered heavy losses of live stock. Xotwithstaniling the men
and womiii spent .a gre.at |);irt of their time clearing .iw.ay snow so that their ani-
iii.'ils could get .il Ihr froziii liuiicll-grass, nearly .-ill their horsrs died before the
last of .l.aiiu.ary. With the beginning of winter the .Spok.ine chief had seventy
horses and thirty <'.ittle. But with lh>- t.ardy coming of sjjriiig he had lost every
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 87
horse and all but two of his cattle. "The Indians generally had from one to ten
horses, " wrote Mrs. Eells, "but all alike are now on foot. I do not know of
half a dozen live ones in all this region belonging to the Indians. They had
nearly forty cattle which they had obtained through our instrumentality ; there
are only three or four left. A band of sixteen cattle belonging to the Bay Indians
was sent to the Spokane river to winter ; only one of them now is alive.
"At Colville the Hudson's Bay company had 270 horses; by April only three
were alive. Every one of another band of eighty horses belonging to a single
man is dead. The horses of the Indians in that region, and also of tlie Bay Indians
further north, are all dead. At Colville some of the cattle froze to death stand-
ing."
At Tshimakain they took little heed of the New York or Paris fashions ; and
there were no new bonnets for Easter Sunday. About that time, acknowledging
the gift of a shawl which had been sent around the Horn by eastern friends, Mrs.
Eells wrote: "Mrs. Walker and I had each our red merino shawls that we wore
in the States (nine years previous) and our plaids are pretty good, though they
have been washed several times, and we concluded to send the shawl to Mrs. Whit-
man, as we were pretty sure she had none. She has since sent back many thanks,
as she was destitute." Think upon this heroic act of self-abnegation, ye pampered
sisters of the twentieth century ; think of this when all the world seems dark and
dreary under that last summer's creation in Parisian millinery.
That same box of Massachusetts luxuries brought several pairs of shoes for
the children, the very first their youthful eyes had ever fallen upon. They had
always worn moccasins, and in winter were obliged to stay in the house or have
wet feet.
"Edwin and Myron think very much of the books sent them last fall," wrote
tile faithful mother with grateful heart. "I think they learn books very well, but
they can never know the noble, exhilarating feeling there is connected with going
to worship in a good meeting-house, where they can understand what is said, or
to a good school with others of their own age. But I have no doubt the Lord will
take care of them if we do our duty." Oh, that severe New England training
of five and seventy years ago! Has it forever vanished from our midst? Have
we grown into better things, with all the wealth of luxury and" ease that came
with the locomotive and the electric wire, or have we fallen upon degenerate days,
that the confidences of this time-stained journal, penned, oh, so long ago, at
lonely Tshimakain, sound quaint and peculiar to e.irs grown wiser in the brilliant
light of the twentieth century?
But those Mission mothers were practical withal. "Last year and the year
before we had milk, so that we made a few small cheeses. Just to prove how neces-
sity can invent new ways when the old ones are not at hand, I will tell you how we
went to work. At first, I believe, Mrs. McDonald of Fort Colville, gave us a little
rennet, but we co.uld bring no curd with it. Then Dr. Whitman gave us a little
beef's rennet, but we succeeded no better with it. At last !Mrs. Walker thought
that perhaps young deer's rennet would do, so after a while an Indian brought us
one which we tried, and it did well. But perhaps you will say. Why did you not
have calves' rennet? Because a general feeling has jirevailed that calves should
not be killed.
88 SIH^KANK AND THE iNLAM) LMIMKK
"Now for tile clicfse basket and tongs, and something to dress it with. The
first named utensil we did witiiout. We sueceeded in getting a two-gaHon keg
sawed in two, which served fur hoops, and .it first we pressed with stones and bags
of nuisket balls. L.ist year Mrs. Walker made herself a lever which saved her
streiigtii some, but I did not try .iMytiiing new."
This Mrs. Mel )(iii;il(i, will) gois into liistiiry .is .i eiiartcr iiicnilier of the Colum-
bia Maternal association, collector of iiiiiur.il speeiuieiis and ;issi>t.int in the first
cheese-making establishment in the Inland I'.iiipire, was an Indi.in woni.an, but
according to .Mr. K( Us. ",i jewel of r.ire excellence, intelligent, and her ninnerous
childriii were .-i living testiiimiiy tci inr in.iterii.il efficiency. "
CHAPTER X
MISSIONS DESTROYED AND ABANDONED
MISSIONARIES ILL AND DISCOURAGED WHITMAN MASSACRE BRINGS TERROR TO TSHI-
MAKAIN FAITHFUL SPOKANES REMAIN LOYAL MISSIONARIES FLEE TO COLVILLE ■
GRAPHIC REMINISCENCE OF EDWIN EELLS A THRILLING MOMENT SPOKANES RALLY
TO DEFENSE OF THEIR TEACHERS CAYUSES SEND OUT LYING RUNNERS OREGON
VOLUNTEERS COME TO ESCORT MISSIONARIES TO WILLAMETTE VALLEY PATHETIC
FAREWELL ON THE SPOKANE "oUR HEARTS WEEP TO SEE YOU GO."
THE long liard wintt-r of 1846-47 left the mission colony depressed in s])irit
and some of them bodily ill. It had been particularly trying to Mrs. Eells.
They were discouraged, and frankly confessed that their work had been dis-
ajipointing in results. Indian interest, both in churcji and school, had fallen off,
and reactionary spirits among the Spokanes taunted the teachers, and challenged
them to ))oint out what benefits they had brought to the Indians. A few remained
faithful, and in a way zealous, but not one had shown sufficient change of heart, ac-
cording to the severe theological tests of the times, to warrant his admission to the
church or to become a partaker of the sacrament.
Before the Whitman massacre in November, 18i7, abandonment of the Sjiokane
mission had practically been agreed upon. The Methodists were closing their Ore-
gon missions, and Dr. Whitman bought their establishment at The Dalles. It was
planned that Spalding should give up his work among the Nez Perces at Lapwai and
join Whitman at Waiilatpu. Walker was to go from to Tshimakain to The Dalles;
and Eells was to move to Dr. Whitman's, and engage in winter work for the benefit
of the whites, many of whom were now settling in Oregon, while his summers were
to be given up to itinerating work among the Indians. But man proposes and God
disposes. "Sir. Walker's ill health detained him at Tshimakain. and it seemed im-
prudent for Mr. Eells to leave him alone among the S|)okanes. And for some rea-
son Spalding lingered, too, at Lapwai, and thus several lives were saved from the
frightful fate that befell Dr. and Mrs. Whitman.
After the massacre, futile efforts were made by the Cayuse Indians to induce
tlie Spokanes to slay their teachers at Tshimakain. A number of Indians from the
Spokane country liad gone down into the Willamette valley and taken employment
uhder the white settlers. The C'ayuses sent false rejjorts to the Spokanes that the
white people in Oregon, in retaliation for the Wliitman massacre, had killed si.xty of
these Indians from the Spokane region. ^Mr. Eells went to the chief of the Spokanes
and gave him assurance that the report was false. "Believe not tile message," he
declared; "it is not the way the Americans do."
89
90 SI 'OK am: and Tin: inlanu kmi'iui:
"Avoid l)iiiig out after dark," counseled the chief. "I and mj- jjeople are friendly,
but some lurking Cayuses may try to kill you and throw suspicion on us. Make the
door fast; place a strong shutter over the window. If there is a call for admittance,
delay: make inquiry. By the dialect of the person at the door you will know from
what band he conies — wliether from those well or evil disi^osed."
It was a time to try the souls of the bravest, but the faithful Spokanes remained
stanch, and the missionaries had faith in their loyaltv.
"Soon after the massacre," says .Myron Eells in his biograiihy of Father Eells,
"the government of Oregon raised volunteers, chiefly in the Willamette valley, who
chastised the C.iyuses, huilt Fort Waters at Dr. ^^'ilitlnan's station, .-md drove the
Indians out of their own country nearly half way to Tshimakain. This brought the
enemy so near that there seemed to be more danger than before, and ^Ir. Walker
went to Fort Colville about the first of March to consult with ^Ir. Lewes, in charge
there, as to their safety."
"Remain i|uiet at the mission as long as you can," replied I.ewes. "If you become
convinced of real danger, come to my fort, and I will protect you equally with myself
and family."
CoufrciMted with the possibility of losing their teachers, the Spokanes now ex-
hil)ited the most earnest evidences of friendshi]). They were ready, they affirmed,
to go to war with the Cayuses.
"But the hostile camp was now only about sixty miles from Tshimakain," says
Myron Eells, "and it began to seem unsafe to stay any longer. Mr. Walker and !Mrs.
Eells were constitution.ally timid and wished to leave. Mrs. Walker had strong nerves,
but her six children made her cautious. She was on an even poise. Mr. Eells was
not satisfied that there was danger enough to render it necessary to move; but he
alone anchored the fcuirteen persons there, and the res])onsibility was too great. It
was dieided to leave for I'ort Colville. .So linp))y were the timid ones at this, that
notwithstanding that it r.-iined when they started, and their first camp was in the
snow, and tiny did not reacli Colville until tile fourth day, yet the move was made
without ,1 iiiunuur. 'I'he next week Messrs. Walker and F.rlK aM<l i:ciwiri ImIIs. tiieii
six years old, returned to Tshimakain to look after what was left,"
Edwin Eells, in a recent article in the .Sunday Spokesman-Review, tells, in
graphic reminiscence of that return to the abandoned mission:
"On the .Sabbath following our arrival at our now desolate home, about i o'clock
in the afternoon, while sitting (niietly in our house, we heard an unusual noise. My
fatlur Went to the door and listened. lie sjiut it (|uiekly, fastened it .md went into
the b.-iek y.ird, where we mounted a table standing there, from whicii we eould look
over the picket fort fence tiiat surrounded us, .md listened.
"OIV in the woods, .-i niiie away, were Indians coming, heralding their approach
with tile Indian w.irwiioop. Nearer and nearer, and louder and louder eauie the
sound. Tile cold chills ran down my back. I felt as though my li.iir was standing
uj) under my cap, and I said : 'lather, father, what is it.' What is it.''' He was too
intent to answer me.
".Vl length they came out iulo the o])in prairie, h;iH' a mile distant. 'I'hire were
a score of them or more, with faces painted, feathers in their iiair, bows and arrows
in their Iinnds, riding bareback and yelling like mad. After a few minutes of intense
suspense, my father recognized the horses and some of the Indians a.s bclongin"- to
FIKST INDIAN AtiKMV BUILDING ON NEZ PERCES BEWKKXAI' 1( i.\
GKAVE OF MlSSrOXARY SPALDIN(i, AT t^t'ALDING, IDAHO
THE MEW VUPK
;hu3lic librakt
SPOKANE AXD THE IXLAXD EMPIRE 91
our own friendly band. His fears for our immediate safety were allayed, but he
was intensely excited and apprehensive.
"After dashing wildly about the prairie and giving all the variations of the
warwhoop, they formed a half circle and made a bee line for the houses, reaching
Mr. Walker's first, where all stopped suddenly, with an ear-splitting shriek. Mr.
Walker, who was sitting in his house with a half breed Indian, was paralyzed with
terror. My father and I went down to his house, distant, perhaps, 100 yards, to
meet them. On the way he led me by the hand, and being very much excited, walked
so fast that I had to trot to keep up with him. I said, 'Father, what makes you
walk so fast.''' Again he did not reply.
"The old chief's son was at the head of the band. His story was that one of
their people, while hunting horses the day before, had visited a camp of the Cayuses
and found some of them gone, he could not learn where. He suspected it was to
Tshimakain. Upon his way home he came upon fresh horse tracks, which so
strengthened his suspicions that he walked all night and till noon that day to tell
the old chief, who, with a part of the band, was camped about twenty-five miles from
home, near the Spokane Falls.
"The chief immediately said, 'Young men, catch your horses and run to Tshima-
kain and protect your teachers,' not knowing that we had moved away. That night
our horses were secured and put under lock and key, a guard was kept all night,
with fires burning, and the next morning, with an escort of twenty men, we rode
three miles across the ferry on our way back to the fort. They did this to show the
enemy, if any were lurking about, that we were protected. After entering the tim-
ber they began to scatter, returning through the woods by separate trails, and thus
our guard gradually diminished till we arrived at the fort, one or two only accom-
panying us all the way.
"During the next ten weeks Mr. Eells was almost continually in the saddle, and
traveled about 1,100 miles, visiting all the Spokane Indian bands, most of whom
maintained friendly relations, and none of whom became hostile. He always traveled
alone, except when accompanied by trusty Indians. Being a man of peace, he never
carried any weaponS. With a horse that could outrun any Indian horse in the coun-
try, and a mule that could scent an Indian half a mile or more tethered close by, he
often slept alone in some out of the way place under a friendly bush. His quiet
courage and strict integrity won the respect and confidence of the Indians, and en-
abled him to hold them all in check and prevent bloodshed.
"With their right hands reverently placed on his pocket testament and in his
presence, the chiefs and head men of the several bands made solemn promises of
fealty to the whites which they faithfully kept."
The Whitman massacre had thrown the whole country into a furor of alarming
apprehensions. The dreadful news, carried quickly into the scattered settlements,
from French Prairie in the Willamette valley to the fur trading outposts in British
Columbia, struck alarm to the minds of the bravest men and terror to the hearts of
timid women and children. Every rifle in the Oregon country was cleaned and
oiled for the general savage warfare that seemed impending, and the door of evcrv
remote cabin was doubly barricaded.
^lischievous and murderous minded Cayuse Indians had put out their runners,
with lying reports calculated to inflame the tribes of the interior, and to allav these
9'2 Sl'OKAM. AM) 1111. IMAM) KMl'lHK
(listiirlMii;; iiiHiaiiCfs. I'.itlitr Ei-lls was in the saddle, weeks at a time, going every-
where over the interior, serene, courageous, self-jiossessed. And this at a time when
even the fur traders suffered from attacks of "nerves." fur at I'ort Colville Factor
I.ewes kept his place guarded, night ;ind d.iy.
News of the massacre at \\'aiilatj)ii roused th( tigliting s]>iril ol tin Oregon set-
tlers, and a Miliinteir rcgiineiit. commandi-d liv Coloiiil H. A. (i. I.ei-. marched out
of the \\'illamette valley, ascended the Columbia river to the interior. ;ind invaded
the country of the hostiles. But their elusive foe, thoroughly alarmed at tliis formid-
alile ai>piaraMef of hitter and resolute avengers, scattered to the winds, and little
punishment could lie iiiHieted. .May iiS two Indians brought letters to the refugees
at 1-ort Colville. one from Colonel Lee informing the missionaries tli.it his forces had
dispersed and chased the flying Cayuses across Snake river, and adding:
"\^■hen we found that it was not expedient to |)ursue the flying Indians further,
we halted. The (juestion was asked: Shall we go back to the \\'illamette and leave
till- two mission families of Rev. Messrs. \\'alker and Eells? That couki not be
thought of. They could not look .Vmeric.ins in the face and say: "We have left two
mission.ary families in the Indian country in these times.' N'olunteers were asked
lor to bring away tliosi' fauiilies .ind sixty responded. .M.ijor .Joseph .M.-igone was
placed in charge."
A letter from .M.ijor .M.igoiie st.ittd th.it he would be at Tshim.ik.iin with his
forces on Sund.iy. .M.iy '-'8 (the same day that the messengers arrived .it Colville
with these disjiatcliesj . to give them military escort to the Willamette settlements.
After consulting .among them-selves .and with Factor Lewes, a verdict was reached
for abandonment of the mission, and e.irly the next morning Walker. Eells and a son
of Mr. Lewes were in the saddle for Tshimakain, where they arrived before sunset,
a ride of 70 miles. The .Spokanes were reluctant to lose their teachers, and jiro-
tested. with fin( spirit, tb.it they would proti ct the wiiite families, and if need be.
were re.ady to m.ike w.ir on. the C.iyuses. When reminded that the {iresence of the
missionaries might involve them in serious troubles, they answered th.it tliev were
ready to accept the risk .and oiu Indi.ui. o|)ening his blanket, declared, wilh tine,
im.agery. that they would protect the uiission.-iries even as a mother jirotet'ted her
child. To the last the Sjiokjines remonstrated .against the contempl.ited sep.iration,
and seeing that further conference could be of no jirofit. the p.irtv returned to Col-
ville. By noon of Thursday all were re.ady. .and bidding goodbye to their kind hosts
.iiid protectors at Eort Colville. they sorrowfully faced the south and reached the vi-
cinity of .Tshimakain on Saturd.iy. L.-ukirig the Ik .irt to encounter .ig.iiii the jilead-
ing eyes and voices of the Spokanes, they changed their ])lan of rem.iiniiii; there
over Sunday, and crossed the Spokane and observed the Sabbath on the south bank
of the stream.
"Tile groves were God's first temples," in the Spokane country. Our mission
workers could not wait for the rearing even of four ))lain walls, nnich less for
"fretted vault." and swelling organ tones. M.my .i tiuu and oft tliev sjioke God's
word in the be.iutiful catlndral of n.ature, beneath the vast dome of he.-iven. while
thi ir wild .and uncouth congregations gathered .attentively around, in the sh.ade of
the pillared |)incs. Eittiiig theme for tli<- hand .and brusii of ircnios w.is Ih.at fare-
well service, on a Sabbath morning in e.irly .lune, on the hank of the brimming Spo-
kane, witii til. women and children seated on hales of household goods, and the
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 93
Oregon volunteers, stained by weeks of campaigning through the Indian country,
some seated on logs, others half-reclining on the turf, and others yet with folded
arms, standing soldierly erect.
As the quiet Sunday wore away, many sorrowing Indians gathered in. "We do
not know when we shall hear you again," said Qual-qual-a-hive-tsa ; "will you not say
a service for us ?" And for scripture text the preacher took, "The people departed,
sorrowing most of all that they might see our face no more."
And so, after more than nine years of rough home-building among the Spokanes,
they went away from beautiful Tshimakain, birthplace of five of the Walker chil-
dren and of Edwin and Myron Eells. Few of them were ever to look again upon
that mountain vale. And yet, "there is a clinging to the land of one's birth," and in
memory of the place, Mrs. Mary Walker, "Grandma Walker" she became in later
years to all the people of the countryside, wrote these lines for her children:
Tshimakain. Oh, how fine.
Fruits and flowers abounding;
And the breeze through the trees,
Fife and health conferring
And tilt- rill near tli'- hill.
With its sparkling water;
Lowing herds and prancing steeds
Arouiul it used to gathrr.
And the Sabbath was so quiet.
And the log-house chapel,
Where the Indians used to gather
In their robes and blankets.
Now it stands, alas, forsaken :
No one with the Bible
Comes to teach the tawny Skailu*
Of Kai-ko-len-so-tin.|
Other spots on earth may be
To other hearts as dear ;
But not to me ; the reason why.
It was' the place that bore me."
That first week of the exodus took tlu-m to Dr. Wliitinan's mission. Two faith-
ful Sjjokanes went witli them to the crossing of Snake river, and, parting, one of
them said: "Our hearts weep to see you go, but we are reconciled." The second
week hrouulit them to The Dalles. There the cavalcade divided. Mr. Eells, with his
domestic animals, going with the troojjs overland through the Cascade mountains
by way of Barlow pass, the others descending the Columbia in boats and going up
the Willamette to Oregon City at the falls.
* People.
t rioil.
91 Sl'UKANE AMJ Till: INLAND EMPIRE
"The inissions of tli<- AiiuTican Board in Origoii were bn.ktii up," says Myron
Eells in the biography of his father. "Could they be resumed? The only mission
in regard to w liieh th.re was any hope was that among the Spokanes. Hoping
that the way would ojxn for their return. .Messrs. Walker and Eells did not sever
tlieir eonneetion with the Hoard for five years.
Tile Indians were very anxious to have them return, and in 18.51 journeyed
four hundred and fifty miles to Oregon City to obtain teachers. Dr. Dart, superin-
tend.nt of Indi.-.n allairs. did what he eould to aid them, but after thoroughly
weighing tb. matt, r n. ilb.r Mr. \\alker nor Mr. Eells could f.ei it iiis duty to
return; for, first, th.re was no adecpiate jiroteetion at Tshiniakain; and, second,
the cost of resuming and sustaining ojjerations was very great, owing largely to the
high prices resulting from the discovery of gold in California. . . . Hence in
1855 their eomuetion as missionaries with the Board was formally dissolved.
"The Indi.ms li.id been left by their teachers, and the question was. Would
they return to their former ijractices.;* Instead of retrogression came advance.
If not members of the visible cbureh— and not one had been thought fit for church
membership— some sliowed that they were members of the invisible one. Several,
as it (livin.ly e.ilKd. took position as leaders and teachers. There were public
Sabbath services and daily worslii]) in their lodges. If tile head man were absent,
another took his place. If the praying men were all away, tlie praying women
took tlieir places."
Annually some of the Spokanes went to the Willamette valley for work, and
each year they pleaded for the return of the missionaries. Yielding, at last, to
their importuning, .Mr. Walker resolved to jiay them a visit, in company mth
Indian Suixrintend.nt Dart. The two started for the Spokane country, but Dart
was called back, and ^^■alkl r deemed it best to return with him.
"Notwithstaiiding all tli. eoniniotion about Tshiniakain in the spring of 18t8. the
wheat had been sown in hope that it might be needed." adds Father Eells' biog-
rajiher. "When the missionaries left in .June, Mr. Eells gave the Indians the two
sickles, and tli.y were instructed to cut it when it was ripe and put it in the barn,
and if the missionaries did not return before the snow should tall, they might
thresh and eat it. It w.is harvested, but the chief said it must be kept for the
use of tlieir teachers on their return. It was used in time of need for seed, but
was replaced. When tiny exiiected Mr. AValker to visit them, they carried it to
Colville and had it ground, and brought it back for the u.se of the jiarty."
In 1861, the government having established a military post at Eort Colville
and placed Major I.ug.nbeel in command, that officer, who .served also as Indian
agent, said to Mr. Eells: "Those Indians of yours are the best Indians I ever
saw. I wi.sh you would go back and resume missionary operations among them."
CHAPTER XI
FOUNDING THE FIRST CHURCHES AROUND SPOKANE
father eells returns to the bunchgrass region twelve years at walla
walla founds whitman academy spalding returns to the nez perces
baptizes 253 spokanes eells visits his old friends on the spokane deliv-
ers first fourth of july address at colville organizes at colfax first
congregational church north of snake river elected school superin-
tendent of whitman county life as a circuit rider out of colfax
moves to medical lake dedicates church at chewelah organizes church
at medical lake his work in spokane organizes church at sprague
his last days at tacoma tributes to his memory mission work among the
nez perces life work of rev. ii. 11. spalding a devoted band general
Howard's tribute to miss m'beth.
Near yonder copse, where once the garden smiled,
And still where many a garden flower grows wild,
Thercj where a few torn shrubs the place disclose.
The village preacher's modest mansion rose.
A man he was to all the country dear,
And passing rich with forty pounds a yrar.
— Oliver GohlsmitJi.
FATHER EELLS was never content with life in the Willamette valley
or on Puget Sound. The call of the bunch-grass country came strong and
persistent. He yielded to its subtle power, and in 1860 went to Walla
Walla, where he lived for twelve years, preaching, teaching and laboring inces-
santly for Whitman academy, an institution of his founding as an enduring me-
morial to the murdered missionary. In 1862 he went back to Tshimakain, his
first visit since the abandonment of the mission. He held services on a Sabbath,
attended by many Indians who gathered in from the surrounding country to greet
their old teacher.
While he lived at Walla Walla, a number of Spokanes came down to that val-
ley every year to work for farmers. Many of these frequently attended the Con-
gregational church, and, remaining for Sunday school, were gathered into a class
and taught in their own tongue. At times tliis class had twenty-five to thirty-five
members.
At Tshimakain the missionaries had given the Indians a tract filled with Hililc
'J5
96 SPOKANE AMJ TIIK INl.AM) KMIMRK
|)icturis. Tliis tlicy had treasured tliroii-^h tlie years. To aid them in rcmein-
lirance of dates, tile missionaries Imd prejiared a simjile chronological chart, a
short line marking a year, one a little longer a decade, and a long line a century.
By this means the time was illustr.ited. from the creation to the deluge, the deluge to
the Christian era, and from the days of Christ to the jiresent. They treasured this
simple chart for nearly thirty years. One Sunday in 1868, at Walla Walla, after
a numher of them had .attended Sunday school, they followed Mr. Eells to his
home, and jjresenting this old paper, A-ma-mel-i-kan uttered the single word,
"tem-e-walsh" — it is worn out. They were given a now one.
Mr. Eells moved from Walla Walla to Paget Sound in 1872. and the S])okanes,
still seeking religious instruction, appealed to Missionary H. H. Spalding, who
had resumed his work among the Nez Perces. Spalding went among them in 1873
.•iiid l)a])tized 2'>3, a mission from which he jjrohahly derived l)eculiar gratifica-
tion growing out of his intense and unreasoning aversion to the C.-itholies. L nder a
new IiKli.in policy .idoijted in President Grant's .Kiiiiinistration, of turning over
Indian education.il work to v.-irioiis religious denominations, the .Spokanes were
assigned in 1871 to the C'olville agency, which chanced to fall under C.itholic con-
trol. Naturally the Catholic missionaries were eager to extend tlie influence of
the church of Uome, and this action hy .Spalding thwarted their ])lans.
But the lure of the sun-hright interior rem.iined strong in the heart of Father
Eells. \\'hen James N. Glover, in 1873, hrouglil his s.iwmill from Salem, Oregon,
to Spokane, he emiiloycd as millwright Deacon J. ,1. Macl'arlaiiil of tli.it ])lacc.
MacF.'irland attended, next year, the meeting of tlie Congreg.itional Association
of Oregon and Washington, at Olymjiia. and tin rr narrated to Father Eells his
observ.ations m.idc while erecting the mill on the .Spokane; how the Indians en-
camped by the falls had daily called the people together for worshij), and main-
tained double services on .Sund.iy. It was like a bugle call to the stout-hearted old mis-
sionarv, and p.aeking food •■iiid bedding on his favorite horse I.e Bleu (how the old
I'rench names lingered in the land, for Lc Bleu was a favorite horse name among
the trappers a century ago) lie set out in .Inly, 1 87 K to cross the Cascade moun-
tains. Alternalelv riding .'ind walking to rest his horse, he traversed the state,
going bv w.av of Walla W.alla and Colfax. Coming to the .Spokane, he saw an
Indian camp across the river. "Do you know me?" he (■.illed out across the water.
"Yes, yes; it's Mr. I.ccls!" .answered the gl.id voice of the Indians.
News of the return of their old friend and teacher ran over the country, .uul
it was arranged that he should hold services at Clirwelali llic lnlldwing Sunday.
That was a busy d.ay for Mr. I'.ells, for within six hours he conducted two services
for the natives and two more for the white settlers. I'rom Chewilah he went to
Colville lo consult Indi.-in Agent .1. A. .Sinims. Then b.iek to the .Spokane river,
where two more services were held, and then a tri]) to the little settlement by the
falls to unci and counsel with Rev. H. T. Cowley, who was t.aking U]) inde|)eiident
mission.-iry work aiiioiig the ii.-itives tlurc.
The next summer .Mr. Eells revisited the Spokane country and held twenty-
four services with his former wards. One .Sund.ay he and Mr. Cowley adminis-
tiTcd the sacrami-nt to sixty communicants before a congregation of .360. "I
made note, " he remarked, "of the propriety of l.mgujige used in pr.ayer."
He returned to the Puget .Sound country, but the sunnner of 1876 found him
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 97
back in the interior, giving his Sundays to the white people in the vicinity of Col-
ville, and most of his week days to the Spokanes at various places. During nine-
teen weeks of tiiis summer he held forty services with the Indians and forty more
witli the whites. He delivered, too, the address at the first fourth of July celebra-
tion held at Colville. "As it was the Centennial year," says his son, Myron Eells,
"tlie oration was expected to be largeh' an historical sketch of the valley. Partly
from public records, partly from the reminiscences of early settlers, and partly
from his own recollection, it was prepared. One man, John A. Simms, Indian
agent, was present, who had been present when he delivered the first similar address
in the Walla Walla valley sixteen years before."
The country was now filling with settlers, in anticipation of the coming of
the Northern Pacific railroad, and Mr. Eells was impressed with the opportunity
here presented for home mission work.
"True," writes his biographer, "the country was not thickly settled. Spokane
had in 187i, when he first visited it after it had been laid out as a town (though
he had visited the place thirty or more years before) only two women; and for
many years afterward had in Clieney a strong rival, and in 1880 could boast of
only about a hundred people. The entire district (eastern Washington north of
Snake river) had only 2,43J. population. There was no railroad. Not until 1883
was the last spike on the Northern Pacific driven. But there was a certainty that
it would be built through that region ; hence a few had gone there, among them
(juite a number of Dr. Eells' old acquaintances in the Walla Walla valley.
"In the early days he often spoke of the rich Palouse country, and so he turned
liis steps in 1877 to its center, Colfax. August 9, 187-1', while passing from Col-
ville to Skokomish, he had preached his first sermon there, the first preaching from
a Congregational minister in that town."
At Colfax, on Sunday, July 8, 1877, assisted by Rev. Dr. Atkinson of Oregon,
he organized the first Congregational church north of Snake river, ten persons
entering into the organization. For four years he was pastor of that pioneer
church.
As Mrs. Eells was in failing healtii, it was deemed unwise at first to bring her
to Colfax, but in the spring of 1878 he thought it best for her to be more closely
associated with him in his labors, and it was planned that she should join Iiim
there, plans that were not to be carried to execution, for in May this faithful and
devoted "mother in Israel." who had come as a bride nearly forty years before
to lonely Tshimakain, was seized with her last illness. August 9, 1878, at the age
of 73, she passed to her great reward. Funeral services were held at Skokomish,
and the funeral sermon was (ireached by her son. Rev. Myron Eells, as there was
no other minister within thirty miles.
"Before her death." tiiis son has written, "plans had been made for a eluireii
building at Colfax. At first the proposition was made to the chureli that if it
would allow other churches to use the building half the time, they would cooperate
in building it. In accordance with that plan subscriptions were made. But to
Dr. Eells this was injudicious. He believed that the Congregational church would
have to do the greater part of the work, and would have the church but half the
time. After consultation the plan was abandoned. Then Dr. Eells said that he
would give as much as all the members for the erection of a building not to exceed
98 spoKANi: AM) riii: inland kmpire
a thousand doUarij. J. A. Perkins gave .$;')00, tlic rest $500. It was a great effort,
and some had to borrow money. When finished tlie eost was over $2,000. The
money was all fnrnished liy the ehureli. then inereased to thirteen niemhers. .md
its pastor, except about fifty dollars."
It was a small band, "but those ch.irtir members were a host," testified the
pastor. "They were influential .md liiffjily ( -.ti-euied. They were small in num-
ber, but earnest, active, efficient."
Besides his $,^)()() to the ehureh l)uil(liu^-. Mr. I'.ells paid .illOO for the lots. .'r^lOO
for the org.-m. if'.i I 1 for tlu' 1x11. .md for hynui books, bibles and incidentals enout;h
more to swell his tol.il gift to .^^l.tillO. 'I'iie building. 30 by 60 feet, was dedi-
cated September 7. 1879. Dr. Eells offered the dedicatory pra_ver, and it w.is
dedicated free of debt. .\ud tliis, in brief, w.is the beginning of Plymoutii cliurch,
Colfax.
.\t the elielion of 187fS .Mr. Kells was elected school superintendent of Whit-
man county, having thin an an-a considerably larger than that of Connecticut.
He (jualified relucl.mtly, and finding his double duties a severe tax upon his strength,
resigned the office June 1, 1879, and a successor was appointed, but failed to
(lualifv, and Mr. Eells served out the term of two years. The following quota-
tion from his own chronicles will illustr;ite )iioneer conditions in Whitman comity:
".Moiidav morning left Colf;ix: rode p(rhai)s sr\(ii miles: was ;it .-i seliool in
.S])ring valley soon .after nine o'clock. Iliibbbd uiy iiorse and let him graze out-
side, .-md s])ent the forenoon in seliool. .\t 1'.; o'clock I rode on .-ind ate a cold
luneli in the s.iddlc. .Vftrr ;i little more than ,m hour's ride, .arrived at :i school
in Thousand Sjirings N'.illey. Kem.iined till the close of school. I then rode on;
ate my supper as I had dom- my liineh. When it was becoming .i little dark, I
arrived .it the residence of aged persons who. 1 thought, would entertain inc. It
was r.aining. I knocked at the door: there was no resjionse. There was a rude
stable constructed of rails .ind straw. 1 went to that; there was no feed there. I
h.id t.ikin till precaution to e.irry a sui.ill portion of gr.iin on my horse. 1 now
gave th.it to him. I h.id not ))Iaiined to c.iuip; eonsequeiitly my bedding was
short. The flooring of the st.ible w.as the ground. I l.iy down: sle|)t some of the
time, and some of the time I did not. In the morning the r.iin h.id ceased f.illing.
Mv horse needed grass. I went out .and l.iy down, m.iking a ])illow of my .inn.
and added somewh.it to my slee]). Had .-i cold breakfast of such food as I had with
me. H.id tr.-nibil thirty ti\r miles the d.iy before. In due time I p.isscd on.
At lialf-])ast 8 1 W.IS ne.ir the sehoolhouse lli.it 1 wished to visit. It was a large
school, and there w.as .-in iniusu;d number of l.irge seliol;irs. I spent the entire
forenoon in tli.at selionl. my Imrsr outside hobbli il ,mii gr.-izing.
"At the close of the school I rode on to the school at Colton, and was there
sca.son;iblv for the .-ifternoon session, and rem.iined there until near the close of
the afternoon. As I h.id f.iilnl the iiiglil before to liud eiitirt.iiiiiiieiit. I now
jilanned to he in .season. I h.id sever.il miles to ride. I rode down the v.illey
e.illed Union Flat. While passing, I took out dry bread, dismounted, di])ped it
in the w.-iter .and then got in the s.iddle. It s|)eedily softened. Seasonably I
arrived ;it the residence of Mrs. II. H. He.ild. I said to her, 'Will you allow nic
to leave tomorrow morning before bre.akf.-ist ?' — for I had some ten miles to ride
to go to the III \t seliool. I think we e.m give yon .-in early bre.ikf.ist.' was the
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 99
reply. She arose at five o'clock the next morning and gave me my breakfast so
early that I was at the school house as soon as the teacher arrived. I spent the
forenoon in that school and then returned to Colfax."
Churches grew slowly in pioneer days. When Mr. Eells, after a four year
pastorate at Colfax, resigned in July, 1881, that church had but twenty-eight
members; and it was yet the largest church north of Snake river. The Rev. .1. T.
Marsh was his successor in Plymouth church.
While Mr. Eells was at Colfax his labors extended far beyond the radius of
his congregation tliere. He was. in cttVct, a "circuit rider" over much the greater
part of that four years, preaching at Lone Pine, Almota, Steptoe Butte, ^larshall,
Colville and other places. Special work, says his biographer, was done also at
Davton, Chewclah, Cheney, Spokane Falls and Medical Lake, and he counseled
lartrelv in the organization of most of the earlier churches of eastern Washington.
His was a wide stage of action, extending from the Canadian boundary on the
north, to the Oregon line near Walla Walla; but he was gifted with extraordinary
vigor and vitality, and his "little jaunts" over eastern Washington at this period
of its development, even though made by a man who had attained the scriptural
allotment of three score and ten. brought little of hardship to one who in his
younger, days had shared the hard, rough life of traders and trappers, and lived
for weeks at a time on Indian fare.
Upon leaving Colfax, Mr. Eells, thinking the waters of Medical Lake would
benefit his health, took up his residence there and, as his strength permitted, en-
o-aged in general missionary work. But Medical Lake was off the railroad, and
finding that his work could be better conducted from Cheney, he removed to that
town in April, 1882, and built himself a small dwelling house. "For nearly a
year and a half," says his son, "his time was spent in a round of labors in nine
different places in three counties: Lone Pine in Whitman county; Cheney, Sprague,
Spangle, Medical Lake and near Cottonwood Springs in Spokane county ; Chewelah,
Fort Colville and Colville town in Stevens county. Then followed a year in the
east for Whitman college, after which he still made his home at Cheney, nomi-
nally, though really it was everywhere throughout the region."
"I have been away from home sixteen nights (he wrote in ,Iuly. 188.5), at
home twelve. I am weary in my work, but not tired of it." Again in October:
"After an absence of fifteen days on a preaching tour I returned. I have con-
ducted preaching services at each of nine different places." After a trip to Colfax,
he wrote. September 11. 188,5: "A bo}-, judged to be .about ten years old. rode
twenty-five miles to get a pair of shoes for his sister to wear to service."
In October. 1886, he returned to Medical Lake, where he remained a year
and a half, his preaching places at that jjcriod being Medical Lake. Pleasant
Prairie, Half Moon Prairie, ^Meadow Lake and Cheney, with an occasional visit
to Chewelah and Colville.
In 1892 a church was erected at Chewelah, and notwithstanding Father Eells
was then living west of the Cascade mountains, the people there felt that none
could grace so well the occasion of the dedication. Fifty-four years to a day, after
he first camped on the site of the town, he offered pr.ayer in this new church.
"It mav be a weakness for me. an old man, to go so far, four hundred and fift\'
miles and back, to accept the invitation," he wrote of tliis journey, "but if anybody
100 Sl'OKANi: AM) 1111. INLAND I.MIMKE
else had fainpcd on that spot, and held servifi-s there fifty- four years previous,
perhaps he would li.ive the same weakness."
A gift of a bell for this eliureli w.is his List import int aet lor ;iny eluireii. He
lionght it in New York, .and paid for it a few d.ivs liefort his (h-.ith. .Said the Rev.
II. L. Hallock at his funeral: "Its first tones in eastern \\'asliina:ton will ring out a
tender requiem — nay, rather a glorious tone of rejoieing for the work lie ii.is .le-
coniplished. and the crown of life he has gone to wear on high.
Writing years after of his work at Cheney, his son, the Ke\. -Myron F.ells. s.iid:
"Previous to 1881, Deacon G. K. .Vndriis. whose home was ne.ir Cheney, had Ik Id a
.Salih.-ith school near that |)laei-. which was afterward moved to the town. The
question then was, "Can ;i church be organized.'' It was done February '20, 1881,
by Dr. Eells, in a hotel over a barroom, with nine members, three males and six
fem.ales, and was the first church of ;iny denomination in the place. He was its
pastor until the ordination of the Rev. !•'. T. Clarke the next winter.
"The next question was to erect a building. Dr. Eells prepared a siil>
scrijition paper and he.ided it with $,>00. Others subscribed. It was a strug-
gle, yet it was carried forward. A contract w.is made for .'{'1,500. The first ifaOO
were easily paid; the Church Huilding .Society had promised to furnish tht
last •'{'.'500 ; the second ])aynient was the hard work. The day on which the ii.iymeiit
w.is to be made was one of an.\iety. Deacon Andrus went about the place trying to
obtain assistance. About noon he and Dr. Eells met to see the result of their united
effort. There was no l.ick. It seemed wonderful. That afterncMiii he left for Lone
I'inc and camped by a tree .it night. As he sat by the tree .md thought of the day's
work and the progress tli.it li.id been made in regard to the eiuireli edifice, his heart
overflowed with gr.ititiulc."
To tliis churcli Mr. Eells also gave a bell, and in .ill his gifts to the Cheney
church aggregated $1,100. The bell cracked in 1881, .md he li.id it sent back to tlie
factory at West Troy, i)aying .'f'50 for freight and exchange for a new bell.
After he h.ad hft e.istern W.ishington he wrote in his journal: "August HT, 1888:
I pray much for tin diviiic .ipprov.-il jf my work at Cheney and Medical Lake. Feb-
ruary 25, 1891: Have been to T.ieoiiia to pay interest money on .i note ag.iiiisl the
Congregational eliureh .it Cluiiey. "
Of Father Eells' later work at .Spokane his son has written: "Dr. Eells first
visited this place in 1871, when but two white women were in it. He afterwards
])reached there at times. \ eliureh was organized May i2'2, 1879. and their next
gre.-it stej) was to erect .i building. They wi're then worshii)iiig in .i schoolhouse,
26 by 40 feet, and thought that ;i church of the same size would be large enough.
Dr. Eells advised them to make it ten feet longer, and jiromised them .'fS'.iOO. It was
built the same size ;is the one ;it Cheney. 30 by TjO, ;it a cost of ,')5::i,000. Afterwards
lie gave this church .i bell, then some books, and some more money, .amounting to
$.')00 in all. At its dedication. December 20, 1881, the day after the one at Cheney
was dedicated, he offered the dedicatory prayer. Dr. Atkinson preaching the ser-
mon. He counseled it through troublous times in 1882-83, and for a short time in
188.'J was its |)astor."
.Such w.as the beginning of Westminster Congreg.ation.al iliiinli of .Spokane, and
among its memorial windows is one with this inscription:
\ fo'
f«tllllll
IXIilAN I'KKSUVIKHIA.N i HlKi^Jl,
SPALDING, IDAHO
A GROUP OF FATHER KFOLLS-
CHURCHES
THE ^£W VORK
iPUBLiC MSKAKYl
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 101
CUSHING EeLLS,
Always abounding in good works.
When Mr. Etlls karntd that with the construction of the Northern Pacific a
town was to be started at Sprague. his memory ran back to many interesting incidents
associated with that site. Tliere the mission families had encamped, that rainy
spring in 1839. when on their way from the Whitman mission to Tshimakain ; and
there, while they were detained by the kick of a horse suifered by ^Ir. Walker, he
had walked to a slight eminence overlooking the present town and engaged in medi-
tation and prayer. It was a convenient camping place on his journeys from Tshima-
kain to the Whitman mission and old Fort Walla Walla on the Columbia, and there
the mission families, on their way to the annual conference at Waiilatpu had passed
two Sundays in rest and religious service. It seemed to liim tliat a spot thus enshrined
in the deeper emotions of his heart extended to him a special call to duty and action,
and accordingly he responded to that call, and there, on April 14, 1881, in the din-
ing-room of the hotel, he conducted the first protestant services ever held in the
town. On June 18, 1882, he organized a Congregational church there with five
members and became its pastor, serving the little congregation for two years. At
his own expense he built, the same year, a union Sunday school on a lot owned by
himself. Out of his private purse came, too, the purchase price of the church bell,
and the lot for the parsonage was his contribution. In all liis gifts to this cluirch
totaled more than $750.
With his resignation of the pastorate at IMedical Lake ended the active life work
of Father Eells. On leaving that place. May 19, 1888, he wrote in his journal:
"This afternoon I leave Medical I-ake. Marked kindness has been shown me by
precious friends. Inexpressible sorrow and anguish have been experienced by the
words and acts of others. I think it is not unlikely tlieir conduct is largely attribu-
table to ignorance and erroneous belief. Doubtless I am sensitive."
Moved by the infirmities of advancing age, he retired to the home of his son Ed-
win on the Puyallup Indian reservation near Tacoraa. But again and again his
heart went out to his churches in eastern Washington, and under date of August 19,
1889, is found this entry in his journal:
"I liave ordered an 800 pound bell to be forwarded to Rev. David Wirt at .Medi-
cal Lake." And again :
"October 19. 1889: In my dreams and waking moments I am at Medical Lake."
On Saturday, February 11, 1893. he wrote the last entry in his journal, that
journal which, for fifty-five years of active life, he had maintained, witli almost daily
regularity. Witli unerring premonition of the approaching change, he wrote, "JNIy
feelings impress me with the nearing close of my mortal life ' The next day was
Sunday, and he rode to church from his son's house in Tacoma, participating in
some of the services at the P"irst Congregational church. On tlie way liome he suf-
fered a severe chill, but went out after dinner to feed his old horse, Le Blond, but
fell in the effort and was unable to rise. He was carried to his bed with pneumonia,
but a seeming change appearing for the better lie rose on Wednesday and wrote a
little. That night he grew worse and a physician was summoned. The dying mis-
sionarv watched the passing hours until after midnight of tlie sixteenth, his birthday,
when he directed his granddaughter to write in his journal: "Eighty-tliree years
10-2 Sl'OKAM. AM) I'lll. INl.AM) KMl'IKE
ago today I c-omiiuiitHil this luort.il lilV." His last words wire soiiu- directions re-
garding his faithful hor.si-. and about half-past two his cyt-s closed forever in death.
The body was taken to Seattle and laid to rest by the grave of his wife.
Memorial services were held at Walla Walla, where the i)rinei))al address was
spoken by the Rev. Jonathan Edwards, assisted by President .T. 1". Eaton and Mrs.
N. 1'. Cobleigh of Wiiitnian college, and Dr. A. .1. Anderson, i former president.
.\t Colfax, where tht chief address was delivered by the Rev. H. P. James, Dr. F.
.M. Hunnell also vi.ieiMf,^ .-, (ittinj; tril)ute. .\t M.dieal Lake, where exjjressions
were made iiv Mr. .md .Mrs. 15. .S. Dudley. Mr. .ind .Mrs. E. W. Gilk.y. ami tin Rev.
I'. \'. Hoyt. M .Skokomisb, in tin tirsl cliureli of the town, of which he once had
been pastor, memorial services wire eondueled by his son; and at Raveiiswood. near
Chicago, a memorial address was made by the Rev. Marcus Whitman Montgomery.
with stereopticon views by Dr. .1. E. Roy.
Speaking of the death of this truly great and good man. Dr. F. B. Clu rrington,
pastor of Westminster church in S])okanc, said: that a hero was one who li.id an
op|)ortunity .ind |)roved iciual t" it: but Dr. Eells bad an o|)portunity and im-
proved it.
The Rev. I.. H. Hallock, his T.ieom.i i)astor. said: "At the dawn of his eighty-
third birtliday was transl.ited from earth to heaven. Dr. Cushing Eells. one of (jod's
noblemen ; pioneer mission.-iry, friend of humanity, founder of Whitman college, and
judged by tlie test of long and unwearied service, entitled as much as any man to the
.Master's greeting, 'Will done, good .ind faithful servant; enter thou into the joy of
tliv Lord.' Good I'"ather Eells died with the respect of all who knew him. He died
in peace to meet the reward of an honored and faithful servant."
The Oeeideiit.'il Congregationalist : ".\ company of our legislators, sitting in
committee at Olymjiia, debated whether they should t,ix eliureh property. One of
them asked why it should be f.ivored. He was reminded that there lay. not many
miles from him. the mort.il remains of ;i Christian patri.ireh. Father Eells of
venerable memory, through whose efforts and those of his colleague, Marcus Whit-
iii.iii. this very state in whiib the legislators sat had been saved to him and to Amer-
ica. On the day th.-it rounded eighty-three years of life, Cushing Eells left Washing-
ton for another home. On the d.iy after his death, a legislative committee of the
st.-ite of W.ashington, who owi d tlirir proixrty anil their Christian nurture to him,
determined tn f.ivor tin eburelus beeause of his work. .\iid if ever a question was
siiu.irely answereii. it w.is answered when ;i gentleman from Tacoma instanced the
life of Cushing Eells as the reason why Washington owe.s something to the Christian
missionarw tli'' Christian cliunli and the Christian's God."
Dr. I.VMiaii .Vbbott wnili in the Cliristi;in L'nion: ".\ man of great and beautiful
character, of unsurpasstd eonsi eration. anil one to whom the republic of the United
.Stati's owes a far greatir ili bl lliari to many who have oeeu])ied .-i f.-ir more con-
spicuous pl;i<'e in history.
.Measured by iiiterisl arousid. niiiiiln rs eciM\ crtid. and sust.-iined results, the
Ne/, Peree missions .at E.apw.ai .and Kami.ah were the most successful of all Protestant
efforts to ev.angeli/.e the n.alive r.iees of the Pacific luirthwest. The reader will
recall that with M.arcus Whitnian and his bride came the Rev. H. H. .Spalding
.and bride, crossing the Rocky niount.iins in IH.'Ui, the young wives the first women
to traverse the American continent ; and that the Sp.aldings answered the call of
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 103
tlic Nez Perces, tlif most numerous and extensive of all the Indian tribes of the
interior, and established a mission and sehool among them at Eapwai. The school
opened with 100 pupils, old and young, and three years after the attendance had
grown to 150 children and as many adults. Mr. Spalding reported that the more
devout Nez Perces frequently spent the entire night pondering over what they
had learned the day before. Two years later these Indians gathered in assem-
blages of from 1,000 to '2,000 for religious instruction.
They eagerly sought instruction in agriculture, and some of them would barter
tiieir guns, dearest possession of the Indian heart, for hoes and spades. Nearly
a hundred families planted fields around Mr. Spalding's, who reported in IS.SS that
his own field yielded 2,000 bushels of potatoes, besides a good crop of wheat and
other products.
For many years after the missionaries had witlidrawu to the Willamette valley,
the Nez Perces remained witliout white instructors, but immigrants, gold hunters,
Indian agents and traders reported that the Christianizing influences of the mis-
sionaries remained. One third of the Nez Perces were found to be maintaining
family worship, and pubhc services were continued under the faithful preaching
of Timothy. They possessed hymn books in their own beautiful language, and
read from the gospel of Matthew, also in their own tongiie — books tliat had been
printed in mission days on the first printing press to be set up and operated west
of the Rocky mountains. This equipment of the "art preservative of ^all arts"
had come as a donation from the Rev. H. Bingliam's church at Honolulu, and with it,
in 1839, had come E. O. Hall, a printer from the Sandwich islands, induced to
make the long voyage and journey to the interior of the American continent by
the invalidism of his wife. The Halls remained at I.apwai till the spring of
18 to. when they returned to the Sandwich islands.
So well had many of the Nez Perces kept up tlieir knowledge of reading and
writing that they were able, at the great council at Walla Walla in 1855, as re-
ported by General Joel Palmer and others, to take notes of the proceedings and
make copies of the treaties there negotiated by Governor Stevens.
After the vigorous and successful Wright campaign of 1858, the country east
of the Cascade mountains was declared open by military proclamation, in 1859,
to white settlement, and soon thereafter Mr. Spalding, who, tiirough all the wait-
ing years down in the Willamette valley, had cherished a purpose to return to
his first field of endeavor, came back to the Nez Perce country and resumed his
mission labors. "Although Mr. Spalding had been absent from the tribe many
years," reported Indian Agent J. W. Anderson, "yet they retained all the forms
of worship which h.-ul been taught them. Many of them have prayers night and
morning in their lodges. Not having any suitable schoolhouse, I permitted Mr.
Spalding to open his school in my office shortly after his arrival, and from that
time till he was compelled to discontinue the school from severe sicknes.s, the school
was crowded, not only with children, but with old men and women, some of whom
were compelled to use glasses to assist the sight. Some of the old men would remain
till bedtime engaged in transcribing into their language portions of scripture trans-
lated by Mr. Spalding."
.Judge Alexander Smith, of the first judicial district of Idaho, wrote about
104 SPOK.WF, A\n rriF. ixiavd empire
tliat time, for publication in a San Erancisco newspaper, the following interesting
account of services iield at Lewiston In- Mr. Sjialding:
"On Sunday last I liad tlie pleasure of attending chureli at this place, conducted
in Ncz Perce by Rev. H. H. Spalding. The governor, federal and county officers
and citizens of I.ewiston were mostly present. The scene was deeply solemn and
interesting; the hrc.-ithless silence, the earnest, devout attention of that great con-
gregation (even tlie small children) to the words of their much loved pastor; the
spirit, the sweet melody of their singing; the readiness with which they turned to
hymns and chapters, and read with Mr. Spalding the lessons from their testaments
which Mr. Spalding had translated and printed twenty years before; the earnest,
pathetic voices of the native Christians whom Mr. Spalding called upon to pra\ —
all, all deeply and solemnly impressed that large congregation of white spectators,
even to tears. It were better a tiiousand times over, if the go\ erinmnt would do
away with its policy that is so insufficiently carried out. and only lend its aid to
a few such men as Mr. Spalding, whose whole lieart is in the business, who has but
one desire, to civilize and Christianize the Indians."
In his able work, "Indian Missions," the Rev. Myron Eells blames "govern-
mental policy and officers, the Indian ring and others," for hostile interference with
Mr. Spalding's later work among the Nez Perces. "Some of the time he was on the
outskirts, some of the time in the Walla Walla region, and sometimes elsewiuTe;
yet all of the time he was aiming to do one thing, iiot\\'ithstanding tiie opposition
of those who so often defeated him," a judgment which needs to be tempered by the
statement of fact that Mr, Spalding, as often is the ease witli men of intense
zeal and resolution of purpose, was tem]>eramentally unfortunate .md not infre-
quently bitter and undiplomatic in his relations with others.
"It was not until he went in person to Washington, in the winter of 1870-71,"
adds Eells, "that he obtained ,in order freely to return to his field. He reentered
it in the fall of 1871, and for three years worked with uiiabating zeal, and during
this time he was allowed to gather in the harvest."
He lies buried at Lapwai, death calling him to his long reward on August 3,
1874. Large part of the last year of iiis life was devoted to mission work among
the Spokancs. Of these he baptized nearly 700 in the last three years of his life.
"Perhaps," said the Oregonian of .Vugust 22, 1871, "it is to his influence more
than to any otiier cause, that the Nez Perces are indebted for the distinction they
enjoy of being regarded as the most intelligent and the least savage of all our Indian
tribes. Amid the grateful remembrance of those wlio came in after him to enjoy
the blessings his sacrifices purchased, he r.sts from his labors, and his works do
follow him."
In the closing ye.-irs (if his iiiissioii Mi-. .Spaldinj; di-ew around hiiii a most debited,
earnest band of Christian workers, including our Spokane pioneer, H. T. Cowlev and
wife, and Miss S. L. McBeth, who cime from tlie Clioctaw mission to take employ-
ment under government as a teacher .iniong tiie Nez Perces. Of this remarkable
woman General O. O. Howard, who visit, d hi r when passing through tin- eountrv
Willi iiis command in |)ursuit of Clii.f .Insi ph and his hostile liand. wrote in the
Chicago Advance of .lune It, 1877:
"In a small Iiouse having two or three rooms, I found Miss McBeth living by
Iierself. She is such an invalid from ))artial |)aralysis. that she can not walk from
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 105
house to house, so I was sure to find her at home. The candle gave us a dim
light, so that I could scarcely make out how she looked as she gave me her hand
and welcomed me to Kamiah. The next time I saw her by day, showed me a pale
intellectual face, above a slight frame. How could this face and frame seek this
far-off region.!" Little by little the mystery is solved. Her soul has "been fully con-
secrated to Christ, and He has, as she believes, sent her upon a special mission to
the Indians. Her work seems simple, just like the Master's in some respects. For
example, she gathers her disciples around her, a few at a time, and having herself
learned their language, so as to understand them and to speak passably, she instructs
them and makes teachers of these disciples.
"Tliere is the lounge and the chair, there the cook stove and the table, there,
in another room, the little cabinet organ, and a few benches. So is everything about
this little teacher, the simplest in style and work. The only Nez Perces books thus
far are the gospel of Matthew, translated by Mr. Spalding, and the gospel of John,
by James Reuben, the Indian assistant teacher, who was aided in the translation
by the Rev. Mr. Ainslie. It is evident these must be largely used in this work of
instruction. I hear that the Indian department is afraid that Miss McBeth is
teaching theology and orders her back to the rudiments. Certainly not theology in
the way of 'isms' of any kind, I am ready to affirm. I told her to call it 'theophily,'
if a high-sounding name was needed for God's love. For as Jonah, the sub-ciiief,
brokenly said, 'It makes Indians stop buying and selling wives; stop gambling and
iiorse-racing for money; stop getting drunk and running about; stop all time lazy
and make them all time work.' It is filling this charming little village witli houses,
and though she can not visit them, her pupils' houses are becoming neat and cleanly.
The wife is becoming industrious within doors, sews, knits and cooks. The fences
are up, the fields are planted. Oh, that men could see that this faithful teaching
has the speedy effect to change the heart of the individual man ; then all tlie fruits
of civilization begin to follow."
In the chapter next following, the narrative of tlie Rev. H. T. Cowley's removal
from the Nez Perce reservation, to take up independent mission work among the
Spokanes, will conclude our review of Protestant missions in the Inland Em))ire.
CHAPTER XII
H. T. COWLFA' TELLS OF LIFE AMONG THE SPOKANES
BEGINS MISSION WORK WITH THE NEZ PERCES IN 1871— BECOMES AN INDEPENDENT
TEACHER AT SPOKANE IN 1871 FAMILY LIVES ON DRIED SALMON AND VENISON
OPENS SCHOOL IN INDIAN LODGE INDIANS HELP TO BUILD SCHOOLHOUSE AND
DWELLING FOR MR. COWLEY— EAGER TO LEARN WAYS OF CIVILIZATION— SLIGHT RE-
SPECT FOR PRIVACY GIFTS COME FROM AFAR FINDS INDIANS HONEST AND KIND
TEACHES FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL, WITH SIX PUPILS.
T
HE appended tabulation, compiled by Captain Tliomas W. Symons, U. S. en-
gineer corps, shows the variant spelling of the name Spokane:
Spokan Official Transfer Papers Pacific Fur company to Northwest
Fur company.
Spokan Ross Cox.
Spokane War Department Map 1838.
Spokane Commodore Wilkes.
Spokein Rev. S. Parker. This writer, who visited the country in 1836,
says: "Tlie name of this nation is generally written Spo-
kan, sometimes Spokane. I called them Spokans, but they
corrected my pronunciation and said 'Spokein' and this
they repeated several times, until I was convinced that to
give their name a correct pronunciation, it should be writ-
ten Spokein."
Spokan Greenhow.
Spokain McVickar.
Spokan Nath. J. Wyeth's report, 1839.
Spokane Robertson.
Spokane Thornton.
Spokane A. Ross.
Spokan Franciiere.
Spokan Irving.
Spokan Nat. Railroad Memoirs.
Spokan Armstrong.
Spokan St. John.
Spokane Pacific Railroad Report.
Spokane Mullan.
Sjioken Robertson & Crawford.
107
108 .Sl'OKANK AND Till. INLAND EMPIRE
Perhaps no one here has more intimate knowledge of Indian life and character
than that possessed hy H. T. Cowlew Mr. Cowley went among the Xez Perces in
1871 as missionary and teacher, and i?i 187t transferred his labors to the land of
*he Spokanes. With these he maint.iined tile relation of "guide, counsellor and
friend" for a period of eight years, jjreaehing in their lodges, teaching in a rough
building eonstniettd largely by their efforts, .md for n while subsisting, himself
and family, on their rougii f.ire of dried salmon and lean venison.
M hile .1 student .at Olierliii eollege, Mr. Cowley met and m.irried Mrs. Cowley,
and under the rules was tluTeby disbarred from the completion of his course. He
went then to .Antioeh .-is te;ielur and student, and was gradu.ited from tiiat college.
A year later lie went to .\uliurii Theologieal seminary .iiid w^■^s graduated from that
institution. After two years' service ainoMi,'^ the i'rott slant N'ez Perces at Kamiah,
Idaho, differences having <-ome up between tile Indian .agent and the missionaries,
lie resigned .and took up his residence at the new settlement of Mt. Idaho, on Camas
prairie.
".\ year or so later," said Mr. Cowley, "the .Spokane Indians sent down a delega-
tion to iietition me to come among them and establish a school and elmrch at the
falls of the ."Spokane. Tiiey expressed an earnest desire for the white man's en-
lightenment, and undertook to i)rovide a house for my family, a school building for
their own peojih-, .and the necessary food supjilies for my sujiport. I w.as ur'i-ed
to take this step by the pioneer missionary, H. H. .S|>,ildiiig, then teaching and
preaching at Lajiwai. Mr. .Sjialding li.ad iireaciied to the -S))()kanes in the summer
of 1873, and intended to return witii me in 1871, but was taken ill and died tiiat
summer. He now lies buried at Lapwai.
"I arrived liere in .Iniie, 1871-, in company with six young Xez Perces, who liad
been my heliiers at K.iiniah, one of them a son of Chief Lawyer. The Lawyers were
a remarkable family. A daughter, Lucy, was a very attractive young woman, .and
could readily have made an alliance with any one of several white suitors. One of
the army officers at Fort Lapwai formed a die)) attaehinent for her, and asked iier
hand in marriage, but she declined the offer and rem.iincd single to her death. She
spoke Englisli well and was a very intelligent woman. Lawyer's two sons became
Presbyterian jire.achers. Archie, the younger, was ,as fine a young man as you
would see anywliere. He possessed a siileiidid form, tlu' Indian physiognomy was
not pronounced in him, and he had a bearing of great dignity.
"After I iiad looked over the field at .Spokane, I returned to Mt. id.alio lor iiiv
family, and we arriv( d here in the middle of October, tr.aveling hv wagon. Living
at the falls then were ,1. X. Glover, his partner, C. 1\ ^c aton, and a man named
Kizer. On our w.ay up from Mt. Idaho, we overlook William Pool, a carpenter.
and his family, who were ( ing to locate at Spok.ane. Mr. Pool h,lp,,i uir to
build my house .and the Indi.an schoolhouse.
".My first dwelling was at a jioint which is now on Sixtii avenue, between Divi-
sion and Brown, . W< hnilt the .schoolhouse on Sixtli between Division and Pine.
The dwelling was of logs, two rooms below .and .i Large .attic above, and we later
added a leanlo kitchen. We could not find mortar or clay for chinking, and as a
substitute used a tjuantily of ])ine moss, which the Indian squ.iws brought from the
woods beyond Hangm.aii erei k. The logs used in this structure had iireviously gone
into a half eom))leted building down near Howard street and the river. Someone
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 109
had started a house there, which had never been completed, and Mr. Glover had
sold it to the Indians. Enoch, a Spokane sub-chief, who had been instrumental in
my coming here, took his team and hauled the logs up to the building site. There
were here, at that time, about 250 or 300 Indians, who had been living in scattered
encampments but later assembled in the vicinity of Pine street in order to be near
tlu- school. Enoch had fenced in about 180 acres; his north line was about where
Third avenue now lies, his south line was the cliff, his west line Howard street and
the east line ran near Pine.
"The schoolhouse was a box structure, 20 by 30, built of lumber bought
at Glover's mill. There was some dissatisfaction over the refusal by Mr. Glover
to donate the lumber, the Indians alleging that his predecessors, who had located
here in 1871, had promised, in an informal treaty, to give them all the lumber they
might require for their own uses, and they contended that Mr. Glover ought to
consider himself bound to carry out that agreement. They finally agreed to pay
for the lumber in furs and grain, but Mr. Glover had considerable difficulty in col-
lecting, and I believe lie never was fully compensated for that lumber. The In-
dians had very crude ideas about contracts and debts. They could barter furs for
goods, but beyond that eould not grasp the white man's contracts and agreements.
They were as ignorant as children. In the same way Mr. Pool, the carpenter, was
to have three horses for his labor, and we had considerable difficulty in getting them.
"Before the building was erected, I oi)ened school in a large Indian lodge, about
eighty feet long, covered with Indian matting, canvas, sheeting and a few buffalo
robes. Some of the Indians, but not all, had robes enough for lodges. Buffalo
robes were generally used for bedding, and were spread upon a rough mattress of
pine iiouglis and moss, or of tall rye grass and rushes from the swamps. I fre-
quently slept in their tents in winter. On cold nights they would keep a fire going
and some of these lodges were quite comfortable.
"The young men carried the lumber on their backs all the way from the saw-
mill down on the river bank, and the building was not completed until March. A
stove was brought from Walla Walla.
"When it was completed, old and young gathered in and filled the place to its
capacity. Enoch himself would come occasionally and spend the day, taking in-
struction. I never saw a people so eager to learn the ways of civilization. I first
taught them the letters and figures. I had a blackboard and some crayons and drew
pictures of animals and familiar articles. Pointing to one of these, I would get
the Indian word for it and write it down, and then the corresponding English word.
Considering the difficulties we had to contend with, they made very rapid progress.
They wanted to start the lessons at dayliglit and keep up the instruction until dark.
"My family then comprised Mrs. Cowley, Edith, aged seven, now Mrs. E. C.
Stillman, living on the old homestead at Si.\th and Division ; Fred W., aged five, after-
ward drowned in Loon lake ; Grace, aged three, who died at the time of the death of her
mother in 1900; Agnes, aged one, now Mrs. J. L. Paine, living in the Wellington
apartments at Stevens and Sixth. Cazenovia, born here in June, 1876, is now Mrs.
A. K. Smythe of Portland; and Arthur W., born here in 1878, is an architect of
this city.
"I was long of the belief that my daughter was the first white child born in
Spokane, but recently my attention has been directed to historical authority which
J 10 Sl'OKANK AM) I'llK INLAND EMPIRE
iTidits tli.it distinction to the little dauglittr of a family named Bassett, and I tliink
that claim is correct. The Bassetts had moved from Spokane to the Four Lake.s
country before my arrival here, and their little daughter was drowned at that place.
"In looking back over those eventful years, I marvel now that I ventured so
much in bringing my family liere and taking up my work independent of any sup-
IJort beyond the meager help promised by the Indians. They had agreed to provide
.1 liouse and provisions, but were unable to carry out their ])romise. I came liere
with just $\:i in gold dust, given to me by Mrs. H. H. Spalding after tlie death of
her liiisii.ind. I acted on religious faith, trusting that the Lord would provide for
my family, and in this trust I was not disajjpointed.
"Tlie Indians brought us a little dried salmon and some lean venison, and
Enoch, who li.id .i cow, brought us a bucket of milk daily. Our first substantial
supplies came from settlers ,at S))ang]e — a wagonload of potatoes, carrots, cabbages,
turnips and onions, and half of a young hog. In some way, without any effort on
my part, an account of my work got into the newsjJapers, and it must have appealed
to ))nblie stiitiment. for it was not long till we were receiving boxes of provisions,
elotliing and bidding from Walla Walla, Lewiston, Portland and even Cazenovia,
New York, so tliat we suffered no liardsbips, and experienced no sickness.
"Tlie Indians made as free with our house as their own lodges. They would
crowd into the living room on winter days or niglits and unceremonious! v stretcli
themselves before tlie open fire, never appearing to realize that they were shutting
off the heat from the members of my family. They were like children, yet we
enjoyed the experience, and every day was filled with work.
"Good friends at Portland were also active in another way. After I had been
working in this independent manner for several months, I was surprised and grati-
fied to learn that through the llev. Dr. Lindsley, pastor of the First Presbyterian
ciiureli in Portl.iiid. influence had been successfully exerted to secure me a commis-
sion from the Indi.iii (le|)artment, as teacher for the Spokanes at a yearly salary
of .-:=l,OU(l. Some time jirior to that, the government had adopted a new policy in re-
spect to Indian idueatioii, of recognizing both Catholic and Protestant organizations,
.and transferring to lliiiii ediieational work whieli liad previously been carried on by
the war de|)artnieiit. .Vs llie Spokanes were eiiietly Protestants under the influence of
Fathers Eells ,ind W.ilker, at Walker's jjr.-iirie. northwest of Spokane, I was di-
rected to report to the \e/ Perce .igciit .it I,.i|)\vai, the Ne/, Perees also being
cliiefly Protestants.
"We used the schoolhouse ;is ;i ehunli. hut hcfor.' it m;is i)uilt I held religious
services in tlieir lodges. Wiien I first canu In n- in .June, the young Indians cut
down .1 number of Cottonwood trees, dug holes .ukI formed a sort of amphitheatre,
which they covered over with poles and boughs, and In that arhor I iireaciied to a
l.irge congregation.
"I found Indian n.ilun totally ditierenl from what I h.id conceived it to be in
my youth. In gi ner.il they were just as reliable ;is white pcoiile. honest .md re-
gardful of their word. In my entire ex))erience I lost only two articles by theft^
.1 halter and a watermelon. They retunud the halter, and the Indian who took the
watiriiielon stood u|) in ehur<-li .md lu.idi- open confession. I ft It .is safe among
thini .IS .among the same number of whites. Once you get their confidence, thcv are
loyal to the core. The Spokanes were as industrious as you could expect a jieojile
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 111
to be in their state. They foresaw the coming of the changed conditions growing
out of the settlement of their country, and took to the cultivation of the soil and
raising of cattle, and wanted schoolhouses and clmrches. I endeavored, from the
beginning, to impress upon them that the Northern Pacific, when completed, would
bring settlers and their only hope was to take up land and learn the ways of the
white man. There was no other hope for them as a race, but they found it very
difficult to give up the tribal relation, and did not want to take up land in severalty.
"When General O. O. Howard and Governor Ferry met them here in council
in 1881, on the prairie in what is now Dennis & Bradley's addition, and announced
that they must take land in severalty, or be placed on a reservation west of the
Columbia, they were indignant and said : 'What right have you to dictate to us ?
This is our country and we will not leave it!' Garry, who could speak English
quite well, voiced the protest, and it was heeded. The government did not care to
repeat the blunder made in 1877. with the Nez Perces.
"Soon after I came Mr. Glover, Mr. Yeatoii. L. M. Swift, an attornej', and my-
self held a school election. Glover, Yeaton and I elected ourselves directors and
Swift, clerk, and I was employed as teacher. I had to go to Colville to get a
teacher's certificate.
"As my house was the only available place, we opened there the first school in
•January, 1875, witli six pupils: Edith, Fred and Grace Cowley, two children of
Mr. and Mrs. Pool, girls, and a little daughter of Mr. Yeaton. I soon discovered
that I could not keep up teaching in connection with my other work and turned the
school over to ]Mrs. Swift, and she removed it to her residence, a log house between
Third and Fourth avenues and Bernard and Browne streets, and she completed
there tlie tliree months* term in March.
"About 1870, Rev. S. G. Havermale, who had come here in 1875, started a pri-
vate school in the hall over Glover's store. He had expectations of building up a
Methodist educational institution, and wanted to combine his school with the jmb-
lic school, but it was found that this could not be done under the law."
After Mr. Cowley gave up his work as missionary and teacher, he engaged for
a while in journalism. C. B. Carlisle had come here from Portland in 1881, under
financial encouragement from J. N. Glover, J. J. Browne, and A. M. Cannon, and
founded tiie weekly Chronicle. Later Carlisle sold to C. B. Hopkins, Lucien Kellogg,
and Hiram Allen, lirother of Senator John B. Allen of Walla Walla. Tiiey in turn
sold to a newspaper man named Woodbury, who came here from the Cincinnati
Commercial Gazette, and a little later Woodbury sold the paper to Mr. Cowley, in
the spring of 1883, who held it till 1887. Encouraged by the boom growing out of
the discovery and development of the Coeur d'Alcne mines, ;\Ir. Cowley raised the
Chronicle to a daily in July, 1881, but gave it up in the fall and ran it as a weekly
until 1886, wlien it became a permanent daily.
CHAPTER XIII
CATHOLIC MISSIONS IN THE INLAND EMPIRE
REV. MODEST DEMERS DESCENDS THE COLUMBIA IN 1838 MAKES A MISSION TOUR OF
INTERIOR THE FOLLOWING YEAR ST. MARV's ESTABLISHED IN 1841 BY FATHER
DESMET AND OTHERS COEUR d'aLENE MISSION ESTABLISHED ON THE ST. JOE,
1842 TRANSFERRED TO THE COEUR d'aLENE IN 1846 FATHER JOSET IN CHARGE
ST. IGNATIUS MOVED FROM LOWER PEND d'oREILLE RIVER TO MONTANA SACRED
HEART MISSION TRANSFERRED TO DESMET MISSION LABORS AMONG THE NEZ PER-
CES MISSIONS IN THE COLVILLE COUNTRY PRESIDENT OF GONZAGA VISITS THE
CALISPELS ARMY OFFICEr's DESCRIPTION OF THE OLD MISSION OF ST. IGNATIUS.
A parish priest was of the pilgrim train,
An awful, reverend and religious man.
His eyes diffused a venerable grace.
And charity itself was in his face.
Rich was his soul, though his attire was poor,
(As God hath clothed his own ambassador).
For such, on earth, his blessed Redeemer bore.
Of sixty j'cars he seemed ; and well might last
To sixty more, but that he lived too fast ;
Refined himself to soul, to curb the sense,
And made almost a sin of abstinence.
— Dryden.
IN THE liistory of the Catiiolic missions of the Inland Emi)ire we possess
a deathless story of absorbing interest and inspiration ; a record of dangers
braved, privations borne and hardships endured under tlie sacred banner of
the church. So long as history shall be read, that long will survive and be held in
honored remembrance the names and deeds of such devoted priests as Blanchet
and Demers, De ,Stnet and .Toset, Hoecken, Mengarini, Point, Ravalli.
Historic evidence sustains the belief that the sacred emblem of the cross was
lifted on these Pacific shores by Spanish explorers, and possibly by .Spanish priests.
Writing from Cowlitz, in western Washington, under date of February, 1844, the
apostolical missionary ,1. 15. Z. Bolduc said that even then he found ruins of birch
edifices, "constructed for the purpose of drawing the savage nations to the knowl-
edge of the gospel :" and among the natives, relies had been found attesting this
fact. "A certain tribe had possessed for ages a brazen crucifix, bearing the ap-
Vol. .1— »
113
114 Sl'tJKANK AM) TllK INLAND KMl'lHK
pearancc of gri-at antiiiiiity : win ii. Ikiw, .hk] liv wlmiii it was hroiiplit tliitlirr. none
can attest."
Altliougli till- officers, clerks and enii)loy( s of tin tiir companies that operated
in these ngioiis over the first half of the Jjiist century were of the Catholic faith,
no organizetl effort was made to establish missions in the Pacific northwest until
the year 183I-. Hy that time an extensive colony of former servants of the Hud-
son's Bay coni|)any had settled on P'rench jjrairie. in the Willamette valley of Ore-
gon, and ap|)lieation was made to Dr. I'roveneher, vicar apostolic of Hudson Bay,
for a clergj-m.in fur their service. But means of connnunieation were slow, events
moved leisurely in those distant d.iys. .md their prayers were not fullv answered
until 1838. TIk- Rev. Modest Demers e.ime as far west as the Canadi.in Red River
settlement in I8.'i7, .-uul .irr.mged with the fur eiinipanv for himself .and a fellow
laborer to pass into Oregon the following year. According to an outline sketch of
Oregon territory and its missions, which Liter ))ref.iced the jiublislied letters of
Father De Smet, Rev. F. N. IJl.inehi t "left Canada .at the appointid time, and joined
his comiianion at Red River, whence they both started on the 10th of July, .and
after a ixrilous journey of between KOOO .and ."i.OOO miles, .and the loss of twelve
of their fellow travelers in the rapids of the Columbia rivi-r. they arrived at Fort
Vancouver the ii (■th of Xovember the same year. . . On seeing the mission-
aries .at length .among them, the C.inadi.ans wept for joy. .and the savages .-issmibled
from ;i distance of 10(1 mihs to behold the black gowns, of whom so nuieh liad been
said."
Aft<'r several months of mission work west of the Cascade niount.ains. I'.ithcr
Demers ascended the Columlii.i in ,Iuly, I8.S!). visiting W'.iU.i \\'.alla. Okanogan
and Fort Colville. "baptizing all the children that were brought to him in the course
of his journey." He was the first ord.ained ])riest to spread the Catholic faith in
the Inland Kmi)irc. His journiy to the interior consumed three months, and he
returned in October to Fort \'ancouver. The following vear Father Demers re-
peated his journey of ]8,'i9, .again visiting Wall.i W'.ill.i. Ok.anogan .and Colville.
Wf (|Uote now from .a mainiscrijit in possession of .\ngust Wolf. i)re)i.irid with
the sanction of Gonzaga college:
"In response to solieit.ations (from the Indi.ms to the bisho)) of .St. l,ouis) Fa-
thers Peter J. DcSmet. Gregory Mcng.arini and Niiholas Point, accompanied by
Brothers Sjxclil. Huet and Claessens, set out for the Rocky mountains in 18 H.
-Arrived in the Flathead country, they founded. .Sei)teniber '..'t, the first mission
of St. Mary's, in the Bitter Root valley, not f.ar from the site of the present town
of .Stevensville, Mont.ana. The fathers lived .among the Indians, instructing them
.ind administering the sacraments, and conforming themselves to the customs of
the savages. Tiny le.irmil their language, and lived as the savages did, on roots
and berries, ;ind tin- iiroducts of the fisheries .and the eh.ase. In the course of time
they <r<'cted a church .and residence, .and (ultiv.ated the band, striving .at first, with-
out niueli success, to induce their wild iicdpbyles to iinit.ati- tlnni in .agricultur.al
matters. However, th<- Fl.atheads, .as well .as ni.any of tin- inighboring tribes, re-
sjionded to tlu' call of salvation, and a gre.it nninbi r were b.a))tized .and came to
worship at the niissicm. The history of subsi(|urut missions was somewhat siniil.ar,
except in later years the school becanu- .an important feature.
"On various occasions the fathers at St. M.irv s received visits from members
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 115
of tribes on both sides of tlie mountains, and the Coeur d'Alenes in particular begged
that a mission might be given tliem also. Their wish was granted in the autumn
of 18-12, when Father Nicholas Point and Brother Huet built a residence on the
St. Joe river, a sluggish stream that empties into Lake Coeur d'Alene. This was the
beginning of the famous Coeur d'Alene mission, now at Desmet, Idaho.
"In 18i3 Fathers Peter DeVos and Andrew Hoecken, with four lay brothers,
among them Brother .T. B. MeGean, arrived at St. Mary's from St. Louis, and
shortly afterward, in 18 IK Father Joseph Joset and Father Zerbinati came from
tlie same place, with Brother Vincent Magri. They made a welcome addition to
the little band of missionaries and soon found em))loynient. Father Hoecken, after
visiting the Sacred Heart mission on the St. ,Ioc, was detailed to found a mission
among the CaHspels, near Lake Fend d'Oreille. In the summer of 18H he located
the first St. Ignatius mission on Clark's fork, some sixty miles below Sand Point.
Tiiis was the third mission founded. Father Joset. in the meantime, joined Father
Point at the Coeur d'Alene mission, while Father DeVos and Father Zerbinati
remained with Fatlier Mcngarini at St. Mary's. Meanwhile Father DeSmet, su-
perior of llie missions, had traveled to Europe to obtain recruits. He was well
received everywhere, and his holiness. Po])e Gregory XVI, ])roposed to make him
bishop of the new diocese to be erected in Oregon. He managed, however, to trans-
fer this burden to tlie shoulders of tlie Rev. Father F. N. Blanchet.
"In 18i5 Father Nobili and Father Ravalli were called to active service. The
former was sent to found a mission in New Caledonia (in northern Britisli Colum-
bia). Father Ravalli was ordered to found a mission in the Colville valley, and
built the first chaiicl there, on a liill between the fislury at Kettle F'alls and Fort
Colville. This elia])el was named St. Paul's. After a few months, however, he
was called to St. Mary's on the death of Father Zerbinati. Here he remained till
1850, when that mission was closed for sixteen years.
"In 1816 the mission on the St. Joe was transferred to the Coeur d'Alene river
on account of the floods. The new mission, which is now known as the "Old Mis-
sion," was placed in charge of Father Joset, who a little later became superior of
the Rocky mountains when Father DeSmet was called away from the mountains
by otiier duties. Father DeSmet took witli him Father Point, who had been re-
called by iiis su])eriors to Canada. The two fathers jiartcd after crossing the
Rocky mountains, and Father Point remained among the Blaekfeet, to instruct
them during the winter of 1 8 16- 17. The order recalling Father Point had been
issued from Paris in 1 813, but did not reach him until the end of 1 8 16. Such were
the means of communication in those days.
"In 1850 F'ather Joset was sent to close old St. Mary's, on account of the i)ad
disposition shown by the Indians, under the influence of some white men who had
lately come among them. Father Mengarini was sent down to the Willamette, and
later on to California, while Father Ravalli took charge of the mission on the
Coeur d'Alene river, and Father Joset, after visiting Father Hoecken at St. Igna-
tius, established himself in 1851 in Colville valley. Here he remained with Father
Vercruysse till 1858. Father Ravalli, in the meantime, was drawing up plans and
commencing to build the wonderful church at the old Coeur d'Alene mission, which
to this day wins the admiration of visitors — a church built without nails, planned
116 Sl'DKANi: AMJ I'lll. INLAND K.Ml'lRE
by a jjcniiis, and i>iit ii|> liy skillni WDrkiiitn, assisted liy savages in tin- inidsl of
the wilderness.
"We must now ntiirn to tin iiiountains and rapidly sketfli tin' progress of tlic
missions tlure to tile present day. When Father C'ongiato was ni.ide snperior of
both missions in 1851, the Kalispel mission of .St. Ignatius was moved from the
hanks ol the Pcnd d'Oreille to Mission vaUey in the Flathead country, some twenty
miles east of Flatln-.id lake. Here was founded the present St. Ignatius mission,
whieh exists to this day. one of the most striking evidences of missiimary enter-
|)rise in the eountry. '1 hi' present eluireli .ind residence, and the houses of the
Sisters ol Providenee and of the L rsuliiie .Sisters are buildings no one would expect
to find on an Indian reservation.
"In 185^ Father K.avalli repl.ierd Father Joset at Colville. .-uid I'ather .loset
returned to his beloved Coeur d'.\lenes. The f'olville mission was closed the fol-
lowing year, .and I'ather K.avalli w.as tr.ansferred to St. Ignatius.
"In 18f)() old .St. .M.iry's mission was reopened, and the general superior. Fa-
ther CJiorda. worn out with his l.ihors, retired there to recuperate, leaving Father
Urban (Jr.issi as vice-superior to look after the missions for the next three years.
He again resumed his work in 18(!i). .and rem.iiiied in olfiee till .June. 1877. when
Father Cataldo took his place. Father ,(ose])h IJandiui .-ifterw.ard became superior
at St. Mary's, and Later on F.ither (iuidi. F'ather .Jerome D'Aste was the last
missionarv to reside .at the place, for it w.as closed in 1891, and the Indians were
transferred to .St. Ign.itius on the .loeko reservation. At St. Mary's died Father
R;iv.alli. on October ■:.'. ISSk A moiunnent was erected to him by friends and ad-
mirers, and some fortv miles north of Missoula, ;i st.ition on the .Northern Pacific
railroad w.is ii.aniid .ifirr liini. He li.id retired to St. M.iry's .at its reopening in
1866.
"Ill Idaho llie old .S.iered He.art mission on the Coeur d'.Mene ri\ir flourished for
a long time under I'.ither ./oset, later on assisted by Fatlier Caruana and others.
In 1879 it was tr.iusfirred to Desmet, Id.aho (on the Coeur d'Alcne reserv.ation),
where it now stands. Here Father C.aru.an.a. who h.is l,ai)ored for oxer forty years
among the Indians, still displays his great zeal .and energy. This, i)eriiaps, has
been the most successful of the Rocky Mountain missions, and today the well-kept
f/iruis ;iM(l ill'- dixout hearing of the liidi.iiis is remarked by all who visit them.
The historv of tlu De.Smit mission might well occupy us, did space allow. Here
the first noviti.ite id' the mount.iins was est.ablished. Here Father .Foset died, in
1891), .at lli( ripi old lii'e of ninety. Ili had passed seventy years in religion, and
fiftv-six among tlu- Indians. He w.as the l.ast of tlie old missionaries who li.id
labored with F'athers DeSmet, Point, Iloecken .and Ciiorda.
"In 186.) our fathers were .iskc il to take eh.irgt of the mission among the Ncz
■ Perec Indi.ans in Id.ilio. .\l .an <;irly period these Indians had f.alleii under Pro-
testant influence, hiil iii.iiiy lu'vertlu'less wished for the 'Black Robes.' In 1866
Father Cataldo Irll Ihi (oeur d'.Meni- mission, to xisit I.ewiston. ,and met some of
the Indi.ans tlure. .Next vear, being .appointed to t.ake ch.arge of I.ewiston .and tilt'
Indi.ms. Ill built .a sm.all <'hurch .iiirl .a sm.all residence theri'. In 1868 he built a
sMi.all log eliiireh mi llie ( le.irw.iler rixer. .and in 1869 remodeled the old chief's
house as a eli.apel .and .a school for the Indians. In 1870 he was recalled to the
old Coeur d'.Mene missicm, but w.as ch.arged to visit the Ncz Perces from time to
MlSSIdX KKIOCTED NP:AR FORT COLVI Ll.lx WA.SU I NdToN,
BY .JESUIT FATHEKS
Vli:\V (»K ( (II, VI I, I.E. WASlllXliToX
TH.E NEW VuRK
PU3LJC LiBKAKf
THE t'^^~,.jUK
- JNUA (
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 117
time. In 1872 we find him back in Lewiston, where he worked with great energy,
and in 1874 was able to build a church for the Indians at Slickpoo, where the first
mass was said the same year. In 1 875 Father Morville arrived from Italy and
wintered at old Coeur d'Alene with Father Cataldo, but the following year he took
up his residence at Slickpoo with Brother Carfagno. Father Gazzoli joined them in
1877, the year of the Nez Perce war. Thus the mission of St. Joseph's was founded,
and today one-third of the Indians are Catholic. Lewiston is now a thriving parish.
"In 1865 the mission of St. Paul's in Colville was reopened. Father Joset had
there commenced to build the church of the Immaculate Conception, near Fort Col-
ville, for the benefit of the soldiers. This was completed in 1 865 by P"ather INIenet-
rey and Brother Canipopiana. Father Grassi now thought to choose a new site
for a mission between St. Paul's and tliis church, and bought land from a Canadian
for this purjiosc. Here some modest cabins were erected which served as a residence
from 1869 to 1873, when Fathers Jacob Vanzina, Joseph Guidi and Paschal Tosi,
with Brothers Gaspard Ochiena, Lucian D'Agestino and Achilles Carfagno com-
menced to build the present mission of St. Fr.'lncis Regis. Here the cornerstone of
the commodious chapel was blessed in 1878 by Fathers Diomedi and Vanzina. A
year later it was completely destroyed by fire and has since been replaced b_v the
present excellent building.
"Tlie Kettle Falls Indians were not the only ones to be visited from Colville,
for our fathers used to make excursions among the Semitakan, the Chelans, We-
natchees and Okanogans. Father DeRouge commenced a permanent mission among
these latter in 1885. Previously Father Urban Grassi had traveled among them
and lived with them in their tepees, instructing them in Christian morals and doc-
trine. But with the coming of Father DeRouge great strides were made. He has
built a church and school, and done great work in spite of exceptional difficulties.
"About this time the parish of Yakima came into the hands of our fathers. This
is the largest and most progressive town between Spokane and Seattle, and the parish
is increasing in pr()portion to the growth of the community. The Indians on the
Yakima reservation, who until two years ago had also a resident priest, are now
attended from North Yakima.
"In Oregon there is the jjarish at Pendleton, and the mission to the Um.itilla
Indians attached to it."
Such, in outline, is the history of Catholic missions in the broad region around
Spokane, running back over a period of seventy years, told without embellishment,
and. from neccessity of brevity, expressing little of the inspiration that brought
the ])ioneer fathers into a land of savage wildness, or the faith that sustained
them through a thousand perils by land and sea. Happily these have come down
to us in the published letters of Father DeSmet, letters which reveal, as the preface
from another's pen has said, "the manners and customs of the North American In-
dians — their traditions, their superstitions, their docility in admitting the maxims of
the gospel," and "described with a freshness of coloring, and an exactness of detail,
that will render them invaluable not only to our own times, but especially to pos-
terity. " In the language of this preface, "He travels through those vast and un-
explored deserts, not merely as a missionary, filled with the zeal which characterized
the apostles of the primitive society to which he belongs (the Jesuits) but with the
eye of a poet, and an imagination glowing with a bright vet calm enthusiasm. Hence
118 SI'OKANT. AND 1111. IMAM) IMI'IHK
tlic exquisite deseriptions of .si-imry. of iiuidciits, of ivtiit^i; iltscrij)tioiis wliicli
breathe tile spirit of n iiiiiul iiiihued with the hiftiest eonccptions of nature, and
chastened with the saered inHuenees of faitii."
As we have seen, FatluT DeSmet, after crossing tiie plains .md threading the
winding defiles of the Rocky mountains, in 1811, established the mother mission
of St. .Mary's, near the site of the J)resent town of .Stevensville, in .Montana. Im-
pressed with the vastness of the field, he went then to Europe to arouse interest
and win sujjjjort for the poor and struggling missions of the Rocky mountains; and
from that long journey and voyage wi- find him returning by sea and crossing the
troubled C'olumbi;i river i);ir in .luly. 18 11-, sueeis^ful .and il.-ited, and e.iger to
plunge into the deep solitudes of the interior .-iiid greet again iiis savage friends
from whom he had parted two years before. Duties in the A\'illamette valley de-
tained liiui se\er.il iiiorilhs. hut tlusc .iccduiplished. he set out. in tin- beginning of
Febru.iry, 181.j, for the interior. He ascended the t'olunibia in a cinoe to old Fort
A\'alla \\ alia, and t.iking liie broad and well-worn tr.iil of the Indians and the fur
traders, traversed the Wall.i W'.ill.i valley, p.'issed through the I'lloiise country. ,ind
crossing tlie Spokane valley, passed on to St. Ign.itius mission ou tiie lower Pend
d'()r<ille river where he was greeted by Father Adri.m Hoeeken. This mission
stood on the cast bank of the I'cnd d'Oreille. si veii inihs below the pnsent town of
L'sk. By reason of fre<|uent flooding from high water, it was ab.indcuied in IS.")!,
and a new site chosen on the I'lathead reserv.ition in western Mont.ma.
Although the priests could give these Indi.iiis but oee.isional visit.itions .after the
removal of the mission, the Kalis|)els have continued devout in the Catholic faith.
^^'itll rejoicing they greeti-d F.ather Taelinan .-it the Cbristm.as holid.iys of 191 1,
when consideration for bi^ old friends among tJK ui prompted the busv ])resident of
Cionzaga to venture .ig.iin into the wintry wildertiess. .\gain in ./.muarv, 191'2,
Father Taelm.an was sunniioned by Chief .Mass.il.ih to the bedside of a living girl.
"My people," s|)okc Mass.al.ib. .it the funer.il. "we ,ire grieved tod.iy .it the loss of
our dear one; but God has his way. This world is a valley of tears. We are now
poor and suffering, but if we are true to (Jod. there is a countrv above where we
shall all meet again,"
Dr, George Suckley, .assistant surgeon U. .S. A., who accomp.anied Governor
Stevens across the continent in 18;);!, and under direction of th.it ortiei.il ui.ide .i
remarkable canoe voyag<' from I'ort Owen in Mont.in.i, to X'aneomer, deseeiKliiig
thit Hitter Root, Clark's I'ork and Columbi.i, visited .St. Ign.atius on tli.it vovage.
He has left, in his offici.il report, ;i most eiitert.iining descriiition of the mission:
"I walked up to tlu- door of the mission house, knix'ked ;ind entered. I w.as met
by the reverend su|)erior of the mission, I'.itber Hoeeken, who, in ;i truly benevolent
and pleasing manner, said: 'W.alk in, you .are welcome; we are gl.id to see the face
of .1 white man.' I inli-oduced myself .and the iiii ii, .iiid stated that 1 li.id come .all
the way from St. .Mary's by water, after ,a voy.age of twenty-five d.iys; tli.it 1 was
out of jirovisions and tired. He bade us welcome, had our things brought u]) from
the boat, an exeillcnt iliiincr prrp.in il for us, .and .i nier room to sleep in. .ind Irr.ited
lis with the cordi.ality .mil kindness of .a Christi.aii and .a geiitlem.in. Jn these kind-
nesses the Reverend I'.ither .Menetriy ;ind the Lay brother, Mr. .M.age.an, cordi.illy
took part — all uniting in their ( rule.ivors to make iis eomfort.ibli and feel .it home.
"I'"r(un the Reverend Mr. Hoeeken I li.ivc the following p.irtieiil.irs eoiieerning
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 119
the mission and the condition of the inhabitants in its vicinity: The mission was
established nine years ago (in ISi-i), the whole country at that time being a vast
•wilderness. Its inhabitants were the Kalispelms. They lived mostly from the
Kalispelm or Fend d'Oreille lake, down the Clark river to this point; they speak
nearly the same language as the Flathead or Salish Indians. Another mission (St.
Mary's) was at the same time opened among the last mentioned tribe.
"There are two lay brethren attached to the mission. One of these. Brother
Francis, is a perfect jack of all trades. He is by turns a carpenter, blacksmith,
gunsmith, and tinman — in each of which he is a good workman. The other, Brother
Magean, superintends the farming ojierations. They both worked hard in bringing
the mission to its present state of perfection, building successively a windmill,
blacksmith and carpenter's shops, barns, cowsheds, etc., besides an excellent chapel,
in addition to a large dwelling-house of hewn timbers for the missionaries.
"The church is quite large, and is tastefully and even beautifully decorated. I
was shown the handsomely carved and gilded altar, the statue of 'Our Mother,'
brazen crosses and rich bronzed fonts, work, whicli, at sight appears so well executed
as to lead one to suppose that the}' all must have been imported. But no, they are
the result of the patient labor and ingenuity of the devoted missionaries, and work
which is at the same time rich, substantial and beautiful.
"Works of ornament are not their only deeds. A grindstone, hewn out of the
native rock, and moulded by the same hand which made the chisel which wrought
it; tinware, a blacksmith's sliop, bellows, ploughshares, bricks for their chimneys,
their own tobacco pipes, turned out of wood and lined with tin — all have been made
by their industry. In household economy they are not excelled. They make their
own soap, candles, vinegar, etc., and it is both interesting and amusing to listen to
their account of their plans, shifts and turns in overcoming obstacles at their first
attempts, their repeated failures, and their final triumphs.
"The mission farm consists of about 160 acres of cleared land. Spring wheat,
barley, onions, cabbages, parsnips, peas, beets, potatoes and carrots are its principal
products. The Indians are especially fond of carrots. Father Hoecken says that
if the children see carrots growing they must eat some. Says he, 'I must shut my
eyes to the theft, because they cannot, cannot, resist the temptation.' Anything else
than carrots the little creatures respect. The Indians are very fond of peas and
cabbage, but beets, and particularly onions, they dislike. The other productions of
the farm are cattle, hogs, poultry, butter and cheese.
"Around the mission buildings are the houses of the natives. They are built of
logs and hewn timber, and are sixteen in number. There are, also, quite a number
of mat and skin lodges. Although the tribe is emphatically a wandering tribe, j-et
tlie mission and its vicinity are looked upon as headquarters."
Passing to a description of the Indians and the uplifting work of the missionaries,
Dr. Suckley reported :
"They came among these Indians about nine years ago, and found tliem to be
a poor, miserable, half-starved race, with an insufficiency of food and nearly naked,
living upon fish, camas and other roots, and, at the last extremity, upon the pine-tree
moss. Unlike the Indians east of the mountains, they had no idea of a future state
or a Great Spirit; neither had they any idea of a soul. They considered themselves
to be animals, nearly allied to the beaver, but greater than the beaver — and why.''
120 SPOKAXF. AND THK INLAND I'.M IM 1{K
Because, they said, 'the beaver builds houses like us, and he is very cunning too;
but we can catch the beaver, and he can not catch us — therefore we are greater than
he.' They thought when they died that was the last of tluni. While thus ignorant,
it was not uncommon for them to bury the very old and very young alive, because,
they said, 'these cannot take care of themselves, and we can not take care of them,
and they had better die.'
"Of the soul they had no conception. In the hegiiniing tlie priests were obliged
to depend upon the imperfect translations of h.ilf-Ureed interpreters. The word
'soul' was singularly translated to the Indian-., liy one of these telling tiiem that
they had a gut that never rotted, and that this was their living principle or soul.
The chief of the tribe was converted, and was baptized Loyola ; the mass of the
tribe followed their leader. They now almost all pray, have devotional exercises
in their families, and seem in a fair way for further advancement.
"To show you the good sense, benevolence and foresight of the priests. 1 will
relate a short conversation I had with Father Hoecken, who is the superior of the
mission and has been among the people from the first. Says he, 'Doctor, you will
scarcely believe it; surrounded by water as we are, we often have difficulty in getting
fish even for our Frid.iy dinner.' I replied, jokingly. 'I suppose. Father, that the
Indians find no difficulty in observing a fast on Friday.' He answered immediately:
'I never spoke to them about it; it would not do. Poor creatures, they fast too much
as it is, and it is not necessary for them to fast more.'
"The people look up to the father, and love him. They say that if the father
should go away, they would die. Before the advent of the missionaries, the in-
habitants, although totally destitute of religious ideas, still believed that evil and
bad luck emanated from .1 fabulous old woman or sorecrcss. They were great be-
lievers in charms, or medicine. Every man had his peculiar uiedieiiic or cliarm,
which was his d('ity, so to s])eak : and of it they expected good or ill. With sonit- it
would be the mouse; with others, the deer, buffalo, elk, salmon, bear, etc.; and which-
ever it was, the savage would carry a ])ortion of it constantly by him. The tail of
a mouse, or the fur, hoof, claw, feather, fin or scale of whatever it might be, became
the amulet. When a young man grew u|) he was not yet considered a man until he
had discovered his uudicine. His father would send liini to tlic to]) of a high moun-
tain in the neighborhood of the present mission. lien lu w.is obliged to remain
without food until he had dreamed of an .uiinial ; tiie first one so dreamed about be-
coming his medicine for life. Of course anxiety. I.itigue, cold and fasting would
render his sleep troubled .and re))lete with dreams. In a short time he would iiave
dreamed of what he wanted, and return to his home .1 man.
"At the mission they have a small mill, liy which the Indians grind their wheat.
The mill is turned by h;ind, ;ind will grind but three huslu'ls a day."
A discovery made near the mission by Dr. Suckley indicates the com|);iratively
recent activitv of a volcano in the Inland F.mpire: "A few inches below the surface
of the earth can be found tli( aslu s and eineritious deposit of a volcano. The
stratum is about one-third of an inch thick. As you proceed in a north-northeasterly
direction, it becomes thicker and thicker. Hence wi- may infer that the er.iter was
in th.'it direction, aiul ])rol)al)l\- can n<iw lir lounil. Tin- inh.ahit.-iuts lia\r never seiii
it. Thev do not travel from curiosity, and the direction is .among niomit.ains from tile
verv door of the mission. In tlie tribe there are men .and women still li\inir who
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 121
rcinciuber the eruption. They say that it came on during the afternoon and night,
during which it rained cinders and fire. The Indians supposed that the sun liad
burned up, and that there was an end of all things. The next morning, when the
sun arose, they were so delighted as to have a great dance and a feast."
At St. Ignatius mission Dr. Suckley learned that there was an abundance of
lead ore on the Kootenai river. Black lead had been found at St. Mary's and gold
on Hell Gate river, while copper and silver were said to exist in the mountains north.
"The loud, deep-sounding reports, like the explosions of heavy pieces of ord-
nance, occasionally heard in the Rocky mountains, and spoken of by Lewis and
Clark in their narrative, are now and then heard. They never occur except during
the coldest winters. The old trappers thought that these noises were produced by
the bursting of silver mines. Their opinion in such a matter is of but little importance
to my mind." These detonations he attributed to volcanic eruptions, to the break-
ing away of heavy ice masses, or to landslides.
Continuing his descent of the Clark's fork. Lake Fend d'Oreillc and the river of
the same name. Dr. Suckley, three days after leaving St. Ignatius, arrived at old
Fort Colville on the Columbia, where he was kindly entertained by Angus McDonald,
in charge of that post of the Hudson's Bay company.
"Near the fort (continues his rejiort to Governor Stevens) is the mission of St.
Paul, established among the Kettle Falls Indians, on the left bank of the Columbia,
about one mile from the Kettle Falls. I visited the mission establishment three
times during my stay at Fort Colville. It is superintended by the Reverend Father
Joset, assisted by one other priest and a lay brother. Father .loset received me very
kindly. He is a Swiss, and very gentlemanly and agreeable in his manners. To liini
I am indebted for much valuable information concerning this j)art of the country.
The mission establishment consists of a chapel, a dwelling-house and several other
buildings. There is no farm attached to it. The Indians have sufficient to eat
which they obtain from other sources. There is. consequently, no necessitv re(]uir-
ing the missionaries to cultivate land, as they can obtain all they want for their own
use from tlie Hudson's Bay company.
"The Kettle Falls Indians call themselves Squeer-yer-pe. The chief of this
tribe is called Pierre .lean. He, with most of his followers, live in their lodges
around the mission. The number of souls in this band is about ,'}.">(). During the
summer season the Indians from all the surrounding country congregate at this
))laee to catch salmon. There are then about 1 ()()() .it the falls. The Squeer-yer-pe
name for the Kettle Falls is Scliwan-ate-koo. or deep-sounding water. Here the
Columbia |)itclies over a ledge of rocks, making a fall of about fifteen feet perjjen-
dicular. The Indians sow a little wheat and plant some- potatoes, of which they
are very fond; but their principal subsistence is the everlasting salmon. They
come ui> annually in griat nuniln rs, on their way to the headwaters of the Columbia.
Tile Indians kill hundreds of thousands of these fish by spearing them. The myriads
of salmon that ascend the rivers of the Pacific coast are almost incredible. In many
))laees the water appears alive with them, and the shores are thickly lined with the
dead and dving fish. This, according to De Smet, is particularly noticed on the small
lakes of the upper Columbia, in the vicinity of Martin's rapids."
.lust before his arrival at St. Ignativis, Dr. Suckley. reduced to the )3oint of
famine, lodged one night with a band of Pend d'Oreilles. "Our provisions are out,"
122 SPOKANE AND TIIK INI. AND K.MI'IRH
says his journal, "the ground is covered with snow, and the sky obscured by clouds.
The weather is excessi\Tl_v cold. Our tent is wet, as indeed it has been for a week
or more. Our robes and some of our blankets are in the same condition ; and, on
the whole, our situation is quite uncomfortablr. I'lidcr these circumstances I con-
cluded to lodge all night with the Indians. Our luingry stomachs were quite willing
to partake of any hospitality tliey might offer in the shape of food. Witli these
feelings I entered the lodge of All-ol-Sturgh, the head of the encampment. The
other lodges are principally occupied by his cliildren and grand-ciiildren. They
provided us witli dried camas and berries, jilso a piece of raw tallow, whieli tasted
very good. .Shortly after our entrance All-ol-Sturgh rang a little bell ; directly the
lodge was filled with inliabitants of the camp, men, women and children, who im-
mediaU-ly got ujjon their knees and repeated, or rather chanted, a long jjraycr, in
their own language, to the Creator. The repetition of a few pious sentences, an
invocation, and a hymn, closed the exercises. In tiiese the squaws took as active
a part as the men. Tlie promptness, fervency and earnestness all sliowed, was
])leasing to eontemplate. These prayers, etc., have been taught tiiem by their kind
missionary and friend, the much-loved Father Hoecken (.S. .J.). The participation
of the squaws in the exercises, and the a])parent footing of equality between them
and tiie men, so imich iiiilikt- their eniulitioii in othrr savagi- tribes, .-ijipear riiiiark-
able."
CHAPTER XIV
CATHOLIC MISSIONS— CONTINUED
FATHER DESMET JOURNEYS IN A BARK CANOE, TO THE HORSE PLAINS IN MONTANA
RETURNS TO KALISPEL BAY AND FELLS THE FIRST TREE FOR THE MISSION DISCOV-
ERS LIMESTONE CAVE ON LOWER FEND d'oREILLE GOES TO WILLAMETTE VALLEY
FOR SEEDS AND IMPLEMENTS RETURNS AND ERECTS A LITTLE CHAPEL OF BOUGHS
POETIC DESCRIPTION OF KETTLE FALLS ESTABLISHES MISSION OF ST. REGIS IN
COLVILLE VALLEY MEETS PETER SKENE OGDEN IN THE NORTHERN WILDERNESS
EXPRESSES HIS OPINION OF THE OREGON QUESTION HOW THE CAMAS ROOT WAS PRE-
PARED DESMET RANGES FAR, TO THE HEADWATERS OF THE COLUMBIA INTEREST-
ING BLACKFOOT TRADITION AN INDIAN HEAVEN MISSIONARY'S REMARKABLE
JOURNEY FROM THE ATHABASCA TO KETTLE FALLS HOW THE ARROW LAKES WERE
NAMED.
PAUSING a few days at St. Ignatius for rest and recuperation. Father De
Smet voyaged in a bark canoe about 120 miles from St. Ignatius to the
Horse plains in Montana, where he was "among his dear Flatheads and
Peiid d'Oreilles of the mountains during the Paschal time, 184;), and had the great
consolation of finding them replete with zeal and fervor in fulfilling the duties of
true cliiklren of prayer. The solemn feast of Easter," says he in a letter to Bishop
John Hughes of New York, "all the Flatheads at St. Mary's devoutly approached
tlie most blessed sacrament during my mass; and about 300 Fend d'Oreilles, (the
greater number adults) belonging to the station of St. Francis Borgia, presented
themselves at the baptismal font. How consoling it is to pour the regenerating
water of baptism on the furrowed and scarified brows of these desert warriors, —
to l)ehold these children of the plains and forests emerging from that profound ig-
norance and superstition in which they have been for so many ages deeply and
darkly enveloped; to see them embrace the faith and all its sacred practices with an
eagerness, an attention, a zeal, worthy the pristine Ciiristians !"
Sixteen days of laborious work witii paddle and pole had been required to take
the missionary from St. Ignatius to the mission in Montana. Returning with the
current, the long and devious way was covered in four. "On returning to the bay,
(DeSmet always referred to St. Ignatius as Kalispel Bay) accompanied by Rev.
Father Hoecken and several chiefs, my first care was to examine the lands belong-
ing to this portion of the tribe of Kalis))els, and select a fit site for erecting the new
■ establishment of St. Ignatius. We found a vast and beautiful prairie, three miles
in extent, surrounded by cedar and pine, in tile neighborliood of the cavern of New
123
124 SPOKANK AM) IIII. IMAM) F.Ml'IRE
Maiires;!. .iiul its (|\i.irrii s, and a tall of wati r ot' niiirc than 200 fci-t. Jiresenting
every advantage tor the erection ot mills. J feUed the first tree, and after liaving
taken all necessary measures to expedite the work. I diparted for Walla Walla,
where I eml)arked in a small Imat and descended the Cohmihia as far as l'"ort Van-
eonver."
The siirnifieanee ot l)e Smit s mention of "the cavern of New Manresa" becomes
more ajiparent on reeallinj;- that he was of the Society of .lesus. and that Ignatius
Loyola, founder of the .lesnil order, wliih- undertroing austerities. ))assed a vcar in
a cave near the town of .Manresa in northeastern S))ain. Limestone abounds along
the lowi r I'liid (I Oivilli . and a remarkable cavern, probabh that which the mis-
sionaries located near .St. Ignatius, is one of tile natural wonders of that region.
De.Smet's purjiose in returning to the \\'illainette was to secure jjlovighs. spades.
pickaxes, scythes and ear))enters' tools for the m w missions in the interior, and a
few weeks later we find him bringing .1 pack-train of eleven animals, ladened with
tlicse im))lements. over tiie Indian trail which ))enetrates a pass in the Cascade moun-
tains by tlu' base ol Mount Hood, a trail that i\in then had been ))ut to extensive
use by the innnigration that was jjouring into Oregon, and which has ])assed into
liistory .-is the Harlow road. For c()in))anions he had "tile good Hrotiier McGean.
and two metis or mongrels," and tlu- little (larly eiiecuintered many difticulties from
the melting snows which sent a thousand rills and torrents rushing down tiie
mountainsides into the narrow valleys. The inissionarv noted, as have tiiousands
since hiui who have traveled over tliis historic route, the extensive groves of rilo-
dodcndron. which at that season "displays all its strength and iieauty. It rises,"
says tlie missionary author, "to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, and entire
groves art- formed by thousands of these shrubs, whose clustering branches entwine
tliemsclves in beautiful green arches, adorned with innmiurable bou(]uets of splendid
flowers, varying their luies from the Jiure wliite. to the deepened tint of tiie crim-
soned rose."
He noted, loo, traces of the distress and hardshijis suffered liy jiioiiecrs who had
struggled through these mountain defiles while on the last stage of their long over-
land journey to Oregon, for his "path was strewed with the whiteuril bones of horses
.and oxen, melanciioly testimonies of tile miseries endured by other travelers through
these regions." Twenty days were required to ))ass. in this wav. from the \\"\\-
lametle to Walla Walla, a iounH\ now made by raih'o.id train in half as ui.un
hours.
".\i)ont the middle of .Inly." runs the De.Suiet narrati\(. "I arrived safelv with
all my effects at the Hay oi Kalispi Is (the mission of .Si. Ignatius). In mv absenci'
the number of neojihytcs had considiTably increased. On the feast of the A.scen-
sion. I'.ither Iloeeken had the Iiap|)iness of baptizing more tli.an 100 adults. Since
my departun- in the s|)ring. our little eohuu' has built four houses. |)repared e<m-
strueting m.iterials for :i small church, and enclosed a field of .'iOO acres. .More than
K)0 Kalispels, c(Mn])uling adults and children, h.ive been ba))tized. Thev arc all
anim.ated with fervor and zeal: they in.ake use ol the li.iteliel and |ilow. being re-
.solved to abandon an itiner.anl life for a l)ermanent abode. The beautiful falls of
the Columbia, called the Ch.uidieres. in tiie vicinity of I*"ort C"olville. are distant two
d.iys' journey I rtun onr new residence of .St. Ignatius."
'i'hese f.alls .ire now known as IIk Ketlli' b'alls of the Colunibi.a. Thither
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 125
went Father DeSmet to celebrate the feast of St. Ignatius, and he found 800 or 900
Indians assembled for the salmon fishing. "Within the last four years," he con-
tinues, "considerable nmnbers of these Indians were visited by the 'black gowns,'
who administered the sacrament of baptism. I was received by my dear Indians
with filial joy and tenderness. I caused my little chapel of boughs to be placed on
an eminence in the midst of the Indians' huts, where it might not inaptly be com-
pared to the pelican of the wilderness, surrounded by her young, seeking with
avidity the divine word, and sheltering themselves under the protection of their
fostering mother. I gave three instructions daily ; the Indians assisted at them with
great assiduity and attention.
"More than 100 children were presented for baptism, and eleven old men, borne
to me on skins, seemed only waiting regenerating waters, to depart home and repose
in the bosom of their divine Savior. ... A solemn mass was celebrated, during
wiiicli the Indians chanted canticles in praise of God. The ceremonies of baptism
followed, and all terminated in the most perfect order, to the great delight and
gratification of the savages. It was indeed a most imposing spectacle ; all around
contributed to heighten the effect. The noble and gigantic rock, the distant roar
of the cataracts breaking in on the religious silence of that solitude, situated on an
eminence overlooking the powerful Oregon river, and on the spot where the im-
petuous waters, freeing tiiemselves from their limits, rush in fury and dash over a
pile of rocks, casting upwards a thousand jets d'eaii, whose transparent columns
reflect, in varied colors, the rays of the dazzling sun!"
Gathered at the falls, besides the Chaudieres or Kettle Indians, were several
S.in Poils and Spokanes, the latter tribe termed by Father DeSmet the Zingomenes,
.1 varied spelling of "Sinkomans," a name given the Spokanes by some of their
iieigliboring tribes.
"I gave the name of St. Paul to the Shuyelphi nation," adds DeSmet, "and placed
under tlie care of St. Peter the tribe inhabiting the shores of the great Columbia
lakes, whither Father Hoecken is about to repair, to continue instructing and baptiz-
ing their adults. jNIy presence among the Indians did not interrupt their fine and
abundant fishery. An enormous basket was fastened to a projecting rock, and the
finest fish of the Columbia, as if by fascination, cast themselves by dozens into the
snare. Seven or eight times during the day, these baskets were examined, and
each time were found to contain about 250 salmon. The Indians, meanwhile, were
seen on every projecting rock, piercing the fish with the greatest dexterity.
"I left Chaudiere or Kettle Falls August ith, accompanied by several of the
nation of the Crees, to examine the lands they have selected for the site of a village.
The ground is rich and well suited for all agricultural purposes. Several buildings
wen- eoniuienccd ; I gave the name of St. Francis Regis to this new station, where
a great number of the mixed race and beaver hunters have resolved to settle with
their families."
This mission is in the Colville valley, about seven miles from tile present
town of Colville. Thwaites, who edited a more recent edition of DeSmet's letters,
says that on the missionary's next visit to St. Regis he found settled there about
seventy half breeds, and adds that "the station does not aj^jjear to have been con-
tinuous, but to have been reestablished after the Indian wars. Later it became a
126 Sl'OKAM-: AND Till. INLAND KMl'IUE
fiourisliinp mission, witli schools for boys and ftirls, and was frequently visited by
Spokane and C'olville Indians from the neigliboring reservations."
From St. Francis Regis Fatlier DeSmetset out, August 9. on a circuitous journey
into tbe country of tin- Kootenays. in eastern Britisb Columbia. As the roads were
inundated by a great fresh<t. he resolved to r( turn to Lake Pend d'Oreille and
ascend the Clark or I'latlie.id river, cross country liy trail, and strike tin- Kooten.ii
river near the border between Idaho and .Mont.uia. This river, known to the fur
traders as the McCJillivray. the missionary designated the I'latbow (.Irc-a-plat) and
the Kootenay triln lie gave tile same designation. On this journey, in the dipths
of tile forest, ln' liad the good fortune to meet Peter .Skene Ogden. f.iiuiius ixplurer,
adventurer and chief factor of the Hudson's IJ.-iy comjiany.
"As we .-iiiiiro-iched the forests, sever.il horsciiicn issued forth in tattered gar-
ments. The foremost gentlenum saluted lue by name, with all the familiarity of
an old acquaintance. I returned tlie gracious salutation, desiring to know wiiom I
liad the honor of addressing. A small river sep.irated us, .ind with .-i smile lie said:
'Wait until I reach the opjiosite shore, and then you will recognize me.' He is not
a beaver hunter, said I to myself: yt under this t.attered garb and slouched hat. I
could not easily descry one of the ))rinci]).il members of the Hon. Hudson's Bay
company, tiie worthy and resjxct.ible .Mr, Ogden, I had the honor ,iiid good fortune
of making a voyage with him. and in his own barge, from Colville to Fort Van-
couver, in 1842, and no oiu eoiild desire more agreeable society. It would be nec-
essary for you to traverse the desert, to feel yourself insulated, remote from brethren,
friends, to conceive the consol.ition .and joy of such a reiieounter."
Ogden, who had been on .i voy.age to England, liad returned in .\pril, accom-
panied by two British officers — Captain Henry .1. Warre, nephew and aide-de-camp
of Sir R, Downer .laekson, commanding the British forces in .Vmerica, and Lieu-
tenant M. Vavasour of the British engineer eorjis. i'li. y had a commission, says
Thwaites, from the government, perhaps not as extensive as is reported by Dei^met,
but doubtless ami)le in ease of w.ir. They wi re also secretly commissioned by the
Hudson's Bay company to rejiort on Dr. Mil.oughlin's attitude in regard to the
American settlers, .and their .uherse .lecDUiit was .mswered hy hiiu in detail, alter
his resignation.
According to DeSuut, "It was lu itlur curiosity nor ])leasure that induced tluse
two officers to cross so many desolate regions, and hasten their course tow.ards the
month of the Columbia. They were invested with orders from their government
to take iiossession of Cn]n- Disapiinintnuiit (.it the mouth of the Columbia), to
hoist the English standard, and erect .i fortress for the purpose of securing the
cntr.ance of the river in case of w.ir."
At this period the hnig-staiidiiig lioiiiidary dis|)ute between the United States
and (ire.it Hrit.iin had .ippro.iehed ,i crisis. Public sentiment was inflamed against
England, .ind newsp,i|)ers ,ind politici.ms clamored for ;i vigorous and ex.icting policy
by our .state deii.arlnieiit. In tli. ]ir( sidniti.il eainpaigii of 18U-. th.' catch jihrase,
"Fifty-four-forty or fight," had served .is a jiolitieal slogan for the winning Jiarty,
expressive of .i i)o|)ul;ir desire th.it the government of the United States should
treat with England on no other basis than fixing the int.riiatiim.il boundary on that
line of latitude, giving to the stars and strijies tiie greater part of the present
province of British Columbia. But, as was ajitly said a little later, we didn't get
THK OLD .MISSIUX OX THE t'OKl'K IVALKNE RIVEK BUILT BY THE
JESUITS NEARLY SEVENTY YEARS AGO
THE ^£W YuRK
r
UBUC LIBRART
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 127
54-4.0, and we didn't figlit. DeSmet evidently regarded the attitude of the United
States as large part bluster, for he remarked at the time:
"In the Oregon question John Bull, without much talk, attains his end. and
secures the most important part of this country; whereas Uncle Sam displodes a
volley of words, inveighs and storms." It wasn't nearly so bad as that, for the
treaty of 1846 really gave Uncle Sam "the most important part of the country," al-
though the award threw to Britain the rich and beautiful province of British Colum-
bia.
DeSmet described the country between Lake Pend d'Oreille and the Kootenai
as one of dense forests, the trail much obstructed by fallen trees, "morasses, fright-
ful sloughs, from which the poor horses with much difficulty extricate themselves;
but having finally surmounted all these obstacles, we contemplate from an eminence
a smiling and accessible valley, whose mellow and abundant verdure is nourished by
two lovely lakes, where tlie graceful river of the Arcs-a-plats winds in such fan-
tastic beauty that it serves to make the weary traveler not only forget his past
dangers, but amply compensates him for the fatigues of a long and tiresome journey."
Of the subsistence of the Kootenai Indians he wrote: "These lakes and morasses,
formed in the spring, are filled with fish; they remain there, enclosed as
in a natural reservoir, for the use of the inhabitants. The fish swarm in
such abundance that the Indians have no other labor than to take them from the
water and prepare them for the boiler. Such an existence is, however, precarious;
tile savages, who are not of a provident nature, are obliged to go afterwards in quest
of roots, grains, berries and fruits: such as the thorny bush which bears a sweet,
]>leasant blackberry; the rosebuds, mountain cherry, cormier or service berry, vari-
ous sorts of gooseberries and currants of excellent flavor ; raspberries, the hawthorn
berry, the wappato (sagittafolia) a very nourisliing, bulbous root; the bitter root,
whose appellation sufficiently denotes its peculiar quality, is, however, very healthy;
it grows in light, dry, sandy soil, as also the eaious or biscuit root. The former is
of a thin and cylindrical form; the latter, though farinaceous and insipid, is a sub-
stitute for bread; it resembles a small, white radish; the watery potato, oval and
greenish, is prepared like our ordinary potato, but greatly inferior to it: the sweet
onion, which bears a lovely flower resembling the tulip. Strawberries are common
and delicious.
"I can not pass over in silence the camash root (the camas) and the peculiar man-
ner in which it is prepared. It is abundant, and, I may say, the queen root of this
clime. It is a small, white, vapid onion, when removed from the earth, but becomes
black and sweet when prepared for food. The women arm themselves with long,
crooked sticks, to go in search of the camash. After having procured a certain
quantity of these roots, by dint of long and painful labor, they make an excavation
in the earth, from twelve to fifteen inches deep, and of proportional diameter to
contain the roots. Tiiey cover the bottom with closely cemented pavement, which
they make red hot by means of a fire. After having carefuUv withdrawn all the
coals, they cover the stones with grass and wet hay; then place a layer of camash,
another of wet hay, a third of bark overlaid with mold, whereon is kept a glowing
fire for fifty, sixty, and sometimes seventy hours. The camash thus acquires a
consistency equal to that of the jujube. It is sometimes made into loaves of vari-
128 Sl'OKANH AM) I 111, INLAND KMi'lUH
oils diincnsions. It is cxcclk'nt, fspcciiilx' wliiii lioilid witli im .it ; if kept (iry. it
can he prcscrvi'd a long time."
Throughout the forested sections of the Spokane country tin- Indian, when re-
duced to famine in springtime, resorted to pine moss. M. M. Cowlty informed the
editor that he often saw the .Spok.-ines make use of this poor substitute, after he
eaine into the valley in I87„'. De.'^iiiet thus describes its use: "It is a parasite of
the (line, a tree common in these latitudes, .iiid hangs from its houghs in great
((ii.intities. It appears more suitable for mattresses, than for the sustenance of
luiiiian life. When they have procured .i great quantity, they pick out all hetero-
geneous substance, and pre|)are it as tluv do the eam.ish ; it becomes compact, and
is, in my opinion, a most miserable food, which, in a brief sp.-iee, reduces those who
live on it to ,i [jitiable state of emaciation."
Over .a j)eriod of nearly two years we find this intrepid missioii.iry r.inging the
vast wilderness around the sources of the Columbia, the Missouri, the Saskatchewan
and the Athabasca, at times bearing the gospel and the cross to the very sources of
the great river of the west. "The tradition of man's creation and future immor-
tality, ' he writes from the "Fort of the Mountains," October ,'Kl, ISly, "exists among
most of the Indi.m tribes; I li.ive had the opportunity of visiting and questioning
them on the subject. Those who live by fishery, suppose their Heaven to be full
of lakjs and rivers, abounding in fish, whose enchanted shores and verdant islands
produce fruits of every kind. '
Much of this trying and perilous |)eriod he passed among the fierce and blood-
thirsty Blaekfeet. "I eiie.imped (he writes in the s.ime letter) on tin- banks of two
lakes to the east of the Roeky mountains, which the Blaekfeet call the Lake of
Men and the Lake of Wonun. According to their tr.aditions, from the first of these
issued a band of young men, handsome and vigorous, but poor and naked. I'rom
the second, an equal number of ingenious .lud industrious young women, who con-
structed .and made themselves clothing. They lived a long time, sejiarate and un-
known to c.ich other, until the grc.it .\Linitou Wiz.ikeschak. or the old man (still in-
vokid by the Hl.iekfcet ) visitid them; he t.uight them to slay .animals in the chase,
but they were yet ignorant of the .art of dressing skins. Wizakcsehak conducted
them to the dwelling of the young women, who received their guests with dances
and cries of joy. Shoes, leggins, shirts and robes, garnished with porcupine quills,
were presented them. l'';icli young woman silected her gmsl. ;iiid ))rcscnted liim
with a dish of seeds and roots; the men. desiring to contribute to tin- cutert.iinmenl.
sought the chase and returned lo.idi-d with g.ame. The wonun liked the meat, and
;idniired the strength, skill .and bravery of the hunter^. The men were e(|ii.illy
delighted with the beauty of their tr.ippings, and admired the industry of the women.
Both parties began to think they were necessary to each other, and \Vizakeschak
jiresidcd at the solemn compact in which it was agreed that the men should become
the protectors of the women. ;iiid i)rovidc .ill iiecess.iries for their sii|)|)ort; whilst
all other family cares should devolve ii))c)ii the women."
De.Smet drolly .kUIs tli.it "the 15l.ickfeel sipiaws often bitterly eompl.ain of the
astonishing folly ol their mothers in .icceiiting such a ])ro))osition ; declaring, if the
<()iiip.ict were yet to b(; m.ide. they would arrange it in a very difVennt m.uiiier.
"The Blaekfoot heaven is a counlry of s.indy hills, which they call Ks|)atcliekie,
whither the soul goes after death, and where they will find .'igaiii ;ill the .animals
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 129
they have killed, and all the horses they have stolen. The buffalo, hind and stag
abound there. In speaking of the departed, a Blackfoot never says such a one is
dead, but 'Espatchekie etake,' — to the Sand hills he is gone."
Is it only coincidence that the Japanese have a tradition closelj- resembling the
Blackfoot mytli of the origin of the family relation?
A year later, in 1 816, Father DeSmet is found traversing the expansive prairies
that now support the thriving cities of Calgary and Edmonton. With prophetic
vision he thus writes of the jxjtential resources of the broad region lying between
Walla Walla and Edmonton :
"Are these vast and innumerable fields of hay forever destined to be consumed
by fire, or perish in the autumnal snows? How long shall these superb forests be the
haunts of wild beasts? And these inexhaustible quarries, these abundant mines of
coal, lead, sulphur, iron, copper and saltpetre — can it be that they are doomed to
remain forever inactive? Not so — the day will come when some laboring hand will
give them value: a strong, active and enterprising people are destined to fill this
spacious void. — The wild beasts will, ere long, give place to our domestic animals;
flocks and herds will graze in the beautiful meadows that border the numberless
mountains, hills, valleys and plains of this extensive region."
In letters from "Boat Encampment on the Columbia," May 10, 1846, and "St.
Paul's Station near Colville," May 29, 1846, the missionary gives us a lively, cheer-
ful and at times humorous narrative of a remarkable journey he had just completed,
by way of the historic route of the fur traders, from the headwaters of the Atha-
basca to navigable water on the Columbia. Boat Encampment is at the extreme
northern point of the upper big bend of the Columbia, where the Canoe and Little
Canoe enter the larger river. At this point, in 1809, David Thompson, explorer
and astronomer for the Northwestern Fur company, paused to build canoes for his
descent of the Columbia, the first white man to explore the great river from that
point to the mouth of Snake river. It was long a noted stopping place on the
upper Columbia, where horses or snowshoes were exchanged for canoes or bateaux,
or navigation ended and the land journey begun, as the case might be.
"We had now (says DeSmet) seventy miles to travel on snowshoes, in order
to reach the Boat Encampment on the banks of the Columbia. We proposed to ac-
complish this in two days and a half. The most worthy and excellent Messrs.
Rowan and Harriot, whose kindness at the Rocky mountain house and Fort Au-
gustus I shall ever acknowledge, were of opinion that it was absolutely impossible
for me to accomplish the journey. However, I thought I could remedy the incon-
venience of my surplus stock, by a vigorous fast of thirty days, which I cheerfully
underwent. I found myself much lighter, indeed, and started off somewhat en-
couraged over snow sixteen feet deep. We went in single file, — alternately ascend-
ing and descending — sometimes across plains piled up with avalanches — sometimes
over lakes and rapids buried deeply under the snow, — now on the side of a deep
mountain — then across a forest of cypress trees, of which we could only see the tops.
I can not tell you the number of my summersets. I continually found myself em-
barrassed by my snowshoes, or entangled in some branch of a tree. When falling. I
spread my arms before me, as one naturally would do, to break the violence of the
fall ; and upon deep snow the danger is not great, — though I was often half buried.
130 Sl'UKAM-: AM) 1111. INLAND KMl'lUK
wluii I ri(|iiirtd tlic assistance of my companions, wiiicli was always attended
witii great kindness and good humor."
In tlii-. mainur tliirty miles were made tin- first day, and the party encamped
near the sinnniit. ".Some jjine trees were cut down and strip))ed of their branches,
and these lieing laid on the snow, furnisiied us with a hed, wiiilst a fire was lijrlited
on a floor of green logs." Hvery one who h.is traM-lrd primitively in tliesi- north-
western solitudes, and has carried to tin toil a geiuiine love of nature, can appre-
ciate the missionary's revcry :
"To sleej) thus — under the heautiful eino|iy of the starry heavens — in the midst
of lofty and stec]) mountjiins — among sweet murmuring rills and roaring torrents —
may appear str.inge to you. and to all lovers of rooms rendered eomfortahle hv
stoves and feathers; hut you m.iy think dilTerently afti r lia\ing come and i)reathed
tile |)ure air of tiu' mountains, where in return, coughs and colds are unknown. Come
and m.-ike a tri.al, and you will s.ay that it is lasy to forget the fatigues of a long
march, and find eonti ntment and joy, even upon the sjjread liranches of ]>inev. on
which, after the Indian f.-ishion, we extended ourselves ;ind sl(pl, wrap|)ed up in
huttalo robes."
Only a soul imbued with a |)rofound and abiding love of nature, .and sustained by
dee]) faith in God's infinite wisdom and uurey, could exjjress sentiments so beautiful
and lofty .after enduring the dre.idful hardships th.at befell feather DeSmet the
day following:
"At the foot of the nionnt.ain an obstacle of a new kind ])resetited itself. All
the barriers of snow, the innumerable banks, which had sto|)])ed the water of the
stn-.anis, lakes .and torrents, were broken up during the night, .and swelled consider-
.ibly the gre.it I'ortage river (the Little Canoe). It me.inders so remark.ibly in this
straight valley, down which we traveled for a day and a half, tli.it we were coni-
lielled to cross it not less tb.in forty times, with the water fre<iuentlv up to our
shoulders. So great is its impituosity, th.at we were obliged mutu.illy to support
ourselves, to prevent being carried .away by the current. W\- m.arched in our wet
clotlii s during the rest of our s.id route. The long soaking, joined to uiv gre.it f.a-
tigue, swelled my limbs. All the nails of my feet canu ott, .and the blood stained
my moccasins. Four times I found my strength gone, and I cert.ainly should h.ave
perished in that frightful region, if the courage .inii strength of my conip.anions h.id
not roused and .aided me in my distress."
DeSmet describes an interesting custom. His party canu' over the I'ortage in
May, and "s.aw .M.iypolis .ill .along the old rneampinents. E.aeh tr.i\eler who
IJasscs there for the first time selects his own. A young Can.adi.an, with much kind-
ness, dedicated one to me, which was at least 120 feet in height, and which reared
its lofty lir.ad above .all tin- m ighlioriiig trees. Did I deserve it? He stripped it of
.all its br.anelies, only leaving at the top .i litlli' crown; ,it the botloni ni\- n.iiiie .and
the date of the transit were written."
".\fter so m.any Labors .and dangers," continues the missionary, "we deserved
a rejiast. ILapjiily, we found .at the Kne.iiii))ment .all the ingredients that were
necess.ary for .a feast a bag of flour, ,a large li.im. p.irt of .i nindeer, cheese, sugar
.and te.a in .abund.inee, wliieli the genllenieii of the l-'nglish eonip.any h.id eh.irit.ably
left behind. While some were employed refitting the b.arge, others pre)),ared the
dinner; and in .about .an hour we found ourselves snugly seated and stretched out
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 131
around the kettles and roasts, laughing and joking about the summersets on the
mountains, and the accidents on the Portage. I need not tell you that they de-
scribed me as the most clumsy and awkward traveler in the band."
From St. Paul's station, near Colville, Father DeSmet penned a continuation
of this interesting narrative. After the feast which he has just described, the
party launched the barge and shot rapidly down the swollen current of the Colum-
bia. "Guided by an expert Iroquois pilot, and aided with ten oars, the boat darted
over the boisterous surface" of j\Iartin's rapids, and at sunset they were at the
Dalle of the Dead, where "tlie waters are compressed between a range of perpen-
dicular rocks, presenting innumerable crags, fissures and cliffs, through which the
Columbia leaps with irresistible impetuosity, forming, as it dashes along, frightful
whirlpools, where every passing object is swallowed and disappears." . By means
of two long ropes, the barge was lowered through this frightful trough, and the
party encamped for the night at its foot. For details of the tragic incident which
imparted to this stretch of the river a name so sad and shocking, the reader is di-
rected to the chapter wherein an account is given by Ross Cox of the disastrous
fate which befell a party that turned back from the mouth of the Canoe river in
1817.
May 1 1 the party resumed its voyage at early dawn, and that evening encamped
at the entrance to Upper Arrow lake (an extended dilation of the Columbia river).
"This beautiful sheet of crystalline water, whilst the rising sun was tinting the
tops of a thousand hills around, came most refreshing to the eye. It is about thirty
miles long, by four or five wide. Its borders are embellished by overhanging preci-
pices and majestic peaks, which, rearing their white heads above the clouds, look
down like venerable monarchs of the desert upon the great forests of pines and
cedar surrounding the lake. The two highest peaks are called St. Peter and St.
Paul."
Here the father found twenty Indian families, belonging to the mission of St.
Paul, encamped on the shore of the lake, and gladly accepted their pressing invi-
tation to visit them. "It was the meeting of a father with his children, after ten
months of absence and dangers," wrote the priest, adding a belief that "the joy
was mutually sincere. The greater part of the tribe had been converted the past
year at Kettle Falls. These families were absent at that time. I passed, there-
fore, several days among them, to instruct them in the duties and practices of
religion. They then received baptism, with all the marks of sincere piety and
gratitude. Gregory, the name of their chief, who had not ceased to exhort his
people by word and example, had the happiness to receive baptism in 1838, from
the hands of the Rev. Mr., now Archbishop, Blanchet. The worthy and respectable
chief was now at the height of his joy, in seeing at last all his children brought
under the standard of Jesus Christ. The tribe of these lake Indians are a ))art of
the Kettle Fall nation. They are very poor, and subsist principally on fish and
wild roots. As soon as we shall have more means at our disposal, we will supjily
them with implements of husbandry and with various seeds and roots, wliich, I
have no doubt, will thrive well in their country."
With no desire to draw invidious comparison, but as a direct historical state-
ment, the fact is cons))icuous that tlie Catholic missionaries adopted and main-
tained, from the beginning, a theory and an attitude differing fundamentallv from
132 SPOKANE AND THK INI. AM) KMPIRE
those which controlled and animated the Protestants. Freely and almost without
reserve, they admitted into full communion their Indian converts, dispensing, with
unstinted hand the .sacraments of the Roman church, and carefully avoiding an
appearance of patronage or an air of superiority. Better had it heen if Whitman,
Spalding, Walker and Eells had been less exacting in theological standards (as
distinct from morals) : had relaxed their austere New England doctrines, and
adopted towards their untutored wards a bearing of closer brotherhood, instead
of maintaining, down to the very close of their missions, a policy of holding them
under probation or tutelage. As the years rolled by. and the Cayuses saw them-
selves permanently denied full communion, a spirit of sullen resentment developed;
and the belief intensified that they were being exploited in a commercial spirit,
and the missionaries were only fore-runners of an immigration that threatened the
very existence of the Indian tribes.
Explanatory of the origin of the name, Arrow lake, the author recalls the put-
ting forward, a few years ago, by a contributor to a Spokane newspaper, of an
erroneous theory that the first white men to ])ass through that region heard an
Indian legend, tli.it the Great Spirit, while hunting one day, had emptied into these
l.ikes Ills quiver of gigantic arrows: and in substantiation of this fantastic idea, huge
sli.afts of the forest, stripped clean of limbs and silvered with years of weather,
imbedded in tlic lake bottom and leaning at a sharp angle above the surface of the
water, were shown in proof of the truth of the legend. Father DeSmet gives the
true origin of the name:
"We passed under a perpendicular rock, where we beheld an innumerable num-
ber of arrows sticking out of the fissures. The Indians, when they ascend the
lake, have a custom of lodging each an arrow into these crevices."
In his "Fur Hunters," Alexander Ross writes of rude paintings in red upon a
smooth and perpendicular rock on the shore of the lower lake. Against these jiaint-
ings, says that author, Indians passing below in their canoes shot arrows in a
spirit of defiance against a neighboring warring tribe. From the make of these
arrows the natives could tell what tribes had recently passed.
Passing through the Arrow lakes, and floating on the swift current of the Col-
umbia, the missionary came to the Little Dalles. "Our barge was in great danger
in the Dalle, some miles above Colville," he writes. "I had left it, to go on foot,
to avoid the dangerous passage. The young boatmen, notwithstanding my remon-
strances, thought they could pass in safety. A whirlpool suddenly arrested their
course, Jind threatened to bury them beneath its angry waters. Their redoubled
efforts proved ineffectual, — I saw them borne on with an irresistible force to the
engulfing center — the bow of the boat descended already into the abyss and filled.
I was on my knees upon the rock which overhung this frightful spectacle, sur-
rounded by several Indians; — we implored tlu! .aid of heaven in f.ivor of our poor
comrades — they seemed to be evidently lost — when the wliirljiool filled, and threw
them from its bosom, as it reluctjintly yielded up the prey which it had so tena-
ciously held. We all gave heartfelt thanks to Almighty God for having delivered
llieni from a danger so imminent."
At this ])oint in his n.irr.itive the missionary digresses into a comprehensive
description of the surrounding country: "The mouth of the river McGillivray, or
Flatbow (the Kootenai of tli<- jiresent day), is near the outlet of the lower lake.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 133
It presents a beautiful situation for the establishment of a future reduction or
mission, and I have already marked out a site for the construction of a church.
About twenty miles lower we passed the Flathead or Clark's river (the Pend
d'Oreille), which contributes largely to the Columbia. These two beautiful rivers
derive a great portion of their waters from the same chain of the Rocky mountains
from which a great number of the forks of the Saskatchewan and of the Missouri
are supplied. For a distance of about thirty miles from their junction with the
Columbia, are they obstructed with insurmountable falls and rapids. Among the
many lakes connected with the Flathead river, three are very conspicuous, and
measure from thirty to forty miles in length, and from four to six in width. The
Flathead lake receives a large and beautiful stream, extending upwards of a hun-
dred miles in a northwestern direction, through a most delightful valley, and is
supplied by considerable torrents, coming from a great cluster of mountains, con-
nected immediately with the main chain, in which a great number of lakes lie em-
bedded. Clark's fork passes through Eake Kalispel. Lake Roothan is situated in
the Pend d'Oreille and Flatbow mountains, and discharges itself by the Black-
Gown river into the Clark, twent}^ miles below Kalispel lake."
Lake Roothan finds frequent mention in Governor Stevens' reports as lake
"Rootham," and is so printed on old government maps. It is now known as Priest
lake, and the "Black-Gown river" of DeSmet is the Priest river of the present day.
The lake was named by the Jesuits in honor of the then father general of their order.
"Towards the end of the month of May," continues the narrative, "I arrived at
Fort Colville. I found the nation of Shuyelphi or Kettle Fall already baptized
by the Rev. Father Hoecken, who had continued to instruct them after my depart-
ure in the month of August last year. They had built, to my great surprise, a
small frame church, so much the more beautiful and agreeable to my eyes, as being
their first attempt at architecture, and the exclusive work of the Indians. With a
laudable pride they conducted me, as in triumph, to the humble and new temple of
the Lord, and in favor of that good people, and for their perseverance in the faith,
I there offered the august sacrifice of the altar.
"The arrival of the good Father Nobili at Colville filled us with great joy and
consolation. He had made missionary excursions over the greatest portion of New
Caledonia. Everywhere the Indian tribes received him with open arms, and took
great care to bring their little children to be baptized. Having made a retreat of
eight days in the Reduction of St. Ignatius, and after a month of repose and prep-
aration for a second expedition, he returned with renewed zeal and fervor to his
dear Caledonians, accompanied by several laborers, and supplied with a dozen
horses, loaded with implements of agriculture and carpentry.
"Father Nobili and myself were most hospitably entertained during our stay
at Fort Colville. The kindness of the Honorable Mr. Lewes and family I shall
never forget. Truly and deservedly has Commodore Wilkes stated, 'That the lib-
erality and hospitality of all the gentlemen of the Honorable Hudson's Bay com-
pany arc proverbial.' "
CHAPTER XV
CATHOLIC MISSIONS— CONCLUDED
OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM OLD WALLA WALLA TO THE SPOKANE DESMET TAKES A
FRIENDLY INDIAN PIPE FROM THE SPOKANE TO COLVILLE TRIP FROM SPOKANE
TO THE COEUR d'aLENE MISSION A SUMMER ENCAMPMENT DESCRIBED TAKING
"pot luck" with INDIANS SUPERSTITIONS OF THE COEUR d'aLENES THEY WOR-
SHIP A WHITE man's spotted SHIRT AND BLANKET- — MISSION EFFORTS OF AN IRO-
QUOIS CHIEF FATHER POINT's LABORS AMONG THIS TRIBE GOVERNOR STEVENS'
HOSPITABLE RECEPTION AT THE OLD MISSION MISSIONARIES TAKE THE OATH OF
ALLEGIANCE TO THE U. S. CAPTAIN m'cLELLAN AMONG THE YAKIMAS ST. MICH-
AEl's MISSION NEAR HILLYARD FATHER CARUANA AMONG THE SPOKANES.
FROM Colville DeSmet descended the Columbia in one of the barges of the
Hudson's Bay company, stopping at Fort Okanogan, where he adminis-
tered baptism to forty-tliree persons. From Vancouver he set out in .Tuly
on a return to the interior, and under date of July 26, ISIG, in a letter from St.
Ignatius, on the lower Pend d'Oreille river, thus records the incidents of an over-
land journey from old Walla Walla on the Columbia:
"The eighth day after my departure from Fort Vancouver, I landed safely at
^\■alla Walla, with the goods destined for the diflferent missions. In a few days
all was ready, and having thanked the good and kind-hearted Mr. McBean, the
suiK-riutendent of the fort, who had rendered me every assistance in his power,
we soon found ourselves on the way to the mountains, leading a band of pack mules
and liorses over a sandy, dry jilain, covered with buneh-grass and wormwood."
In fair weather this William B. McBean could be kind and hospitable to a degree;
luit when, in his defense, all is said tliat may be said, tiic distressing fact remains
that he iiehaved b.adly when begged for succor and defense by survivors of the
\\'hitman massacre. Thwaites, editor of "The .Jesuit Relations and Allied Docu-
ments," says that AIcBean was an educated half-breed, who succeeded Archibald
McKinlcy at Fort Walla Walla in 181,'). "He attained an unpleasant notoriety in
eonu<(tion with the Whitman massacre, because of his Catholic proclivities, and
his tardiness in aiding the survivors; but most of the charges against him were
unfounded. In New Caledonia he had a reputation for being despotic and wily,
also somewhat fanatical in religious matters."
With all the de<'p ardor of a lover of nature. Father DeSmet enjoyed his life
on the trail — afloat on rushing mountain river, by cam))fire beneath the solemn
])ines. or out u])on the free and starlit pr.iirie. "We encamped for tlie night," re-
ia5
136 SPOKANK ANJ) Till; INLANJJ h.MriUE
sumes his narrative, "in a beautiful little meadow, watered by the Walla Walla
river, where we found abundance of orrass for our animals. These were soon un-
loaded and left free to graze at leisure. \Ve next made a fire, jjut on the camp
kettle, stretched the bed, consisting of a bnfTalo robe, and smoked together the
friendly Indian pipe, whilst supper was in-e])aring. We found ourselves at home
and perfectly at ease in less than a quarter of an hour. The evening was clear
and beautiful — not a cloud — our sleep, sound and rcfresliing, prepared us for an
early start at dawn of day."
Here was a spectacle — a priest of God puffing at an Indian pijjc and uiil)lush-
ingly proclaiming the enjoyment of it— that would have scandalized the zealous
Parker, forerunner of Whitman and Spalding in the lone land where rolls the Ore-
gon. Parker detested the incense of the pipe, inveighed against its use by trapper
.■ind Indian, and often gravely admonislu-d the Indi.ans against this sin. IJke
DcSmet, he was brave, and zealous, and a lover of wild nature too; but unlike
DeSmet, he seemed not to know when to \nibend. or when to look with indulgent
eye on a practice which had long been dear to the Indian heart.
"The »iext d.ay," continues De.Sniet. "we found about a dozen Indian lodges,
called/fthe Palooses, a portion of the .Saiietan (Sahaptin) or Nez Perec tribe. We
proeurecrtrom the Indians here some fresh salmon, for which we made them amiile
return in powder and lead. But as the grass was withered and scanty, and the pil-
fering dispositions of these Indians rather doubtful, we resolved on proceeding
eight or ten mil<-s farther, and eneanif)ed late in the evi-ning on the Pavili<ui river
(now the Palouse).
"On the fifth day of our departure from Walla Walla, we reached the Spokane
river, and found a good fording for our animals. You will see with pleasure the
chart I have made of the headwaters of this river, which, though beautiful and
interesting, is yet, like all the other rivers in Oregon, almost an unbroken succes-
sion of rapids, falls and cascades, and of course ill-adapted in its jiresent condition
to the purposes of navigation. The two upper valleys of the Coeur d'.Mene ;ire
beautiful, and of a rich mold. They are watered by two deep forks, running into
the Coeur d'Alene lake, a fine sheet of water, of about thirty miles in liiigth by
four or five broad, from which the river Spokane derives its .source. I ealb d the
two upper forks the St. .loseph's and the St. Ignatius. They are fonnril by in-
numerable torrents, deseeiuling from the Pointed Heart mountains, a eliain of the
Rocky mount.iins. The two ui)))<r valleys are about sixty or eighty miles long, and
four or riglit miles brd.id. I counted u))Hards of forty littlt- lakes in liuni. The
wlioli- neiglil)oriio()d of the Sjjokane river .affords very alnnidant gr.-izing. and in
many sections is tolerably well timbered with pines of different species."
DeSmet probably followed the old Indian trail leading from the \\alla Walla
valley to Colville. whieli crossed the Spokane about twenty miles below the falls,
and ]>assed through the Tshimakain valley, now Walker's prairie, where Eells and
Walker maintained their Protestant mission from 1 S:;<» to ISfS. "On having the
river," he says, "we ascended by a steep Indian ))ath. .\ few miles ride across a
pine forest brings you to a beautiful valley leading to Colville. agreeablv diversified
by pl.iiris and forests, lieintmd in by high wooded mountains, and bv huge ])ic-
tures<|ue rocks towering their lofty heads over .all tlie rest. Foimtains and rivulets
are Jicre very nunurous. After about thirtv miles we arrived at the foot of the
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 137
Kalispel mountain, in the neighborhood of St. Francis Regis, where already about
sevent_y metis or halfbreeds have collected to settle permanently."
From St. Ignatius, under date of July 25, 1816, Father DeSmet wrote to Mrs.
S. Parmentier, a Brooklyn woman who had made a liberal donation for the support
of his missions. "I am indeed ashamed," he begins, "at not having been able sooner
to answer the letters which you had the kindness to write me on the 2d of Septem-
ber and the 7th of December, ISli." Evidently the mail service was no better for
the Catholic missionaries than it had been for the Protestants, who regarded as one
of their chief hardships the long delays involved in communication with eastern
friends. Father DeSmet explained that this lady's letters "reached the Rocky
mountains only the year after, while I was engaged in a distant mission among the
Indians, so that I received them only in the month of July, 1846. ... I have
given directions to the Indians of these different tribes to recite, every week, the
Rosarv for one of their great benefactresses, meaning yourself. Now, you can
not but be aware, that, among the Indians, the beads are recited in each family,
so that I am already assured, and I have the consolation of saying to you, that
many thousand pairs of beads have already been offered up to God and his august
mother for you. Those good Indians — those children of the forest — so dear to
my heart, will continue to display their gratitude till I tell them to cease, and that
will not be very soon. . . . How happy should I be, my dear, excellent Madam,
could I give you to understand how great, how sweet, how enrapturing, is their
devotion to the august mother of God. The name of Mary, which, pronounced in
the Indian language, is something so sweet and endearing, delights and charms
them. . . .
"The usual place of residence of the Kalispels — that in which the reduction of
St. Ignatius is now established — is an extensive prairie, called the Bay of the Kal-
ispels, thirty or forty miles above the mouth of Clark or Flathead river. A beau-
tiful grotto exists in the neighborhood of the mission, which I have named the
grotto of Manresa, in honor of our Holy Founder. It is very large, and might,
at small expense, be fitted up for a church. May the Indians gather in crowds
into this new Manresa, and after the example of their patron, St. Ignatius, be
penetrated with a feeling sense of heavenly things, and inflamed with the love of
God.
"I shall always remember with pleasure the winter of 1844-45, which I had
the happiness of spending among these good Indians. The place for wintering
was well chosen, picturesque, agreeable and convenient. The camp was placed
near a beautiful waterfall, caused by Clark's river being blocked up by an immense
rock, through which the waters, forcing narrow passages, precipitate themselves.
A dense and interminable forest protected us from the north winds, and a countless
number of dead trees, standing on all sides, furnished us with abundant fuel for
our fires during the inclement season. We were encircled by ranges of lofty moun-
tains, whose snowclad summits reflected in the sun, their brightness on all the
surrounding country." From this description, it seems probable that the rendez-
vous just described was at Albani Falls, near the present town of Newport.
"The place for wintering being determined, the first care of the Indians was
to erect the house of prayer. While the men cut down saplings, the women brought
bark and mats to cover them. In two davs this humble house of the Lord was
138 SPOKANE AND THH INLAND K.NilMHE
coinijlitiil liuuil)lc ,111(1 ])oor, indeed, hut truly tlie house of pr.-iycr, to which pure,
simple, innocent souls repaired, to offer to the Great S])irit tlieir vows, and the
trihute of their affections.
"The great festival of Christmas, the day on wliirh the little tiand was to be
added to the number ot Ihi true children of God. will luver he effaced from the
meinory of our good Indians. The manner in which we celebrated midnight mass,
may give you an idea of our festival. The signal for rising, which was to be given
a few minutes before midnight, was the firing of a pistol, announcing to the In-
dians that the bouse of prayer would soon be open. This was followed by a gen-
eral discharge of guns, in honor of the birth of tlie infant Savior, and ."iOO voices
rose spontaneously from the midst of the forest, and entoned in the language of the
Pend d'Oreilles, the beautiful canticle: 'Dti Dieu puissant tout annonce la gloire.'
— 'The Almighty's glory all things proclaim.' In a moment a multitude of adorers
were seen wending th( ir way to the humble temi)le of the Lord — resembling, in-
deed, the manger in which the Messiah was born. On that night, which all at once
became bright as day, they experienced, I know not what, that which made them
exclaim aloud, 'Oh, God, I give Thee my heart.'
"On the eve the church was embellished with garlands and wreaths of green
boughs, forming, as it were, a frame for tile images which represent the affecting
mysteries of Christmas night. The interior w.as ornamented with pine branches.
The altar was neatly decorated, bespangled with stars of various brightness, and
covered with a profusion of ribbons — things exceedingly attractive to the eye of an
Indi.in. .\t midnight I celebrated a solemn mass, the Indians sang several canticles
suitable to the occasion. That peace announced in the first verse of the Angelic
In'mn, 'The Gloria — Peace on earth to men of good will.' was. I venture to sav.
literally fulfilled to the Indians of the forest.
"A grand banquet, according to Indian custom, followed the first mass. Some
choice pieces of the animals slain in the eluise had been set apart for the occasion.
I ordered half a sack of (lour .and ,i large boiler of sweetened coffee to be added.
The iiniciM. the contentment, the joy. and eh.arity, which Jiervaded the whole as-
sembly, might well be comjiared to the ,ag.i])e of the jirimitive Christians."
"Fathers Mengarini and Serbinati (the Last-mentioned father has since died), had
the consolation to sec the whole tribe of the Elatbeads, among whom they had been
laboring, approach the holy t.able on this day. Twelve voung Indians, taught by
Father Mengarini, jxrfoniuil. with .leeuracy, several jiieces of music during the
midnight m.ass. Fathers I'oint and Josct had, also, the eonsol.atioii of admitting
for the first time, nearly tlu entire tribe of the Coeur d Alenes. on this auspicious
d.iy, to the Holy Conniimudn. Tlu Christmas of 184i was, therefore, a great and
glorious day in the Rocky mountains.
"I will close this already lengthy letter with .1 few words more concerning the
Pends d'Oreilles of the Bay. E.arly in the spring ol 181;), they began to build
ii))on the s|)ot selected for the Reduction of St. Ignatius, and to open fields. On
Ascension d.ay of the same ye.ar. F.atlur Ilocekm .administered baptism to ujnvards
of a hundred .ailulls. .\t my Last visit, whicli I |i.ii(l liicin iu .Inly List, tliry h.-ul
.ilre.idy pill up fourteen log houses, besides a large barn, had the timbers jjrepared
for a elnireh. and li.ad upw.ards of ."JOO acres in grain, enclosed by .a substantial
fenci-. The whole' \ilLigi-. nun. women and children, had wiirked most i-luerfuUy.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 139
I counted thirty head of horned cattle — tlie squaws had learned to milk the cows
and churn ; they had a few hogs, and some domestic fowls. The number of Chris-
tians had doubled since Christmas, ISH."
August, 1846, found DeSmet at St. Mary's mission in Montana, describing, in
a letter of August 10, a journey from St. Ignatius mission by way of the Colville
country and the Spokane valley, to the mission of the Sacred Heart on the Coeur
d'Alene river. "We had beautiful weather, and a path remarkably free from
those obstructions so annoying to travelers in the mountains. Towards the middle
of our day's journey, we reached a beautiful lake surrounded by hills, and a thick
forest of larch (tamarack). I have named it the Lake DeNef, as a token of grati-
tude towards one of the greatest benefactors of the mission. It discharges itself
through a narrow passage, forming a beautiful rapid called the Tournhout-torrent,
at the termination of which it joins its limpid waters to those of the river Spo-
kane. " In the opinion of Tliwaites, who edited a revised volume of DeSmet's cor-
respondence, this was the present Blake's lake in northern Spokane county, "which
discharges by the West Branch into Little Spokane river."
The missionary forded the Spokane river, just below the main falls, and fol-
lowed up the south bank to Lake Coeur d'Alene. "A few words descriptive of our
encampments during wet weather may not be out of place," says his narrative of
this journey. "The tent erected in haste — saddles, bridles, baggage, etc., thrown
into some sheltered spot — large heaps of larch branches or brushwood are cut
down and spread over the spot of ground destined for our repose — provision of as
much dry wood as can be collected is now brought forth for the whole night; on
this occasion we made a fire large enough to roast an ox. These preparations com-
pleted, our meal (dinner and supper the same time), consisting of flour, camash
roots, and some buffalo tallow, is thrown into a large kettle nearly filled with
water. The great heat requiring the cook to stand at a respectable distance from
the fire, a long pole serves as a ladle to stir about the contents until the mixtnre
has acquired the proper density, when a vigorous attack is made upon it after a
singular fashion indeed. On the present occasion we were six in number, trusting
to a single spoon, but necessity soon sujiplied the deficiency. Two of the company
used pieces of bark; two others strips of leather; and the fifth, a small turtle shell."
As tlie missionary's compaf/iioiis du vo/iaf/f were natives — two Kalispels and
three Coeur d'Alenes, it may be surmised that they graciously awarded the single
spoon to the blackrobe. "Grace being said," continues the father, "a circle is formed
round the kettle, and the instruments jdunge and replunge into it with as much
regularity and address as a number of smiths' hammers plying at the anvils; a few
moments, and the contents of the large kettle are gone, leaving not a vestige be-
hind. We found this repast delicious, thanks to our keen appetites. Making due
allowance for the taste of others, I confess I have never enjoyed a feast more
heartily th.m such as I have now described, prepared in the open air, after the
Indian fashion. All the refined inventions of the art culinary, as sauces, pickles,
preserves, pies, etc., designed to quicken or restore weak appetites, are here utterly
useless. Loss of ap])etite, which among the wealthy forms the reigning complaint,
furnishing abundant eui|)l()yment to a])othecaries and doctors, is here unheard of.
If these patients would have the courage to abandon for a time their high living,
and traverse the wilds of this region on horseback, breakfasting at daybreak and
140 SPOKANE AND THE I M.AM) KM I' J HE
dining at sunset, after a ride of forty miles, I venture to jjredict that they will not
need any refined incitements to relish as I did a simple dish prepared by the In-
dians."
The scene here described with such good humor and sound, practical philosophy
lay in our beautiful valley of the Spokane; and tin- dietary truths so pleasingly
advanced by the pioneer of the gospel and tin- cross, are as sound today as two-
thirds of a century ago. Now, as then, health and the zest of keen appetite may
be had for the seeking in our mountain vales and by our wooded waters ; but the
tribe of apothecaries and the cl.in of physicians (lourisli in our midst.
"Having dried our blankets, and said night prayers, our repose was not less
soiuid for having fared so simply, or lain upon ,i rough couch of brushwood," the
good father adds contentedly.
At the Cocur d'Alene mission De.Smet was cordially received by Fathers Joset
and Point. All the Coeur d'Aleiies of the neighborhood came to welcome him.
"The fervor and |)icty of these poor Indians filled me with great joy and consola-
tion." remarks the missionary, "especially when T considered how great the change
wrought in them since their conversion to Christianity. . . . Previous to their
conversion, these Indians were shunned by the other trilies, on account, it is said,
of their great power in juggling and other idolatrous practices. ... A single
instance will serve to give you some idea of the objects of their worship, and the
facility with wliieh they ado))! tluir uianitoiis or divinities. Thev related to me
that the first white m.an they saw in their country wore a calico shirt, spotted all
over with black and white, which to them appeared like the smallpox; he also wore
a white coverlet. The Coeur d'Alenes imagined that the spotted shirt was the
great nianitou himself — the great master of that alarming disease, the smallpox —
and that the white coverlet was the great manitou of the snow; that if they could
obtain possession of these, and pay them divine honors, their nation would never
afterwards be visited by that dreadful scourge; and their winter hunts be rendered
successfid by an abundant fall of snow. They accordingly offered bim, in exchange
for these, several of their best horses. The bargain was eagerly closed by the
white man. The spotted shirt and the white coverlet became thenceforward, ob-
jects of great veneration for many years. On grand solemnities the two manitous
were carried in i)rocession to a lofty eminence, usually consecrated to the perform-
ance of their superstitious rites. They were then respectfully spread on the grass:
the great medicine pijie offered to them, with as nuich veneration as it is customary
witii tii( liulians, in presenting it lo the sun, the fire, the earth and the water. The
whole band of jugglers, or medicine nun, then entoned canticles of adoration to
them. 'I'lir service was generally terminated with a grand dance, in which the
l)eriOrniers exliibited the most hideous contortions and extravagant gestures, aecom-
pani<(i with a most unearthly bowling."
I";ither NiehoLas Point, who labored long among the Coeur d'Alenes, is autluu-ity
th.it this tribe was partly converted to Christianity, about the year 1830, by an
Iro(|uois chief called Ignatius. They had heard, in an imperfect way from the fur
traders, that in the f.'iith of the white man there was but one God. who had an
invisible place called heaven as abode of good ))eo])le after death, and an invisible
place of torment called hell, where the wicked s))irits were consigned. That God's
son in heaven, beholding all men running in the road to the bad place, descended
PETER JOHN DK S.MKT
The great apdstle (if the Indians
^i-K.AKlf
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 141
to earth to point them to tlie good road, hut that in order to efifect this, it was
required that he die upon the cross.
"One evening," says Father Point, in an extended letter recording the details
of the conversion of the Coeur d'Alenes, "all the families, who were dispersed in
different directions, for fishing, for hunting, and for gathering roots, assembled
upon the ground of an old chief called Ignatius, to see the author of this news.
Regardless of fatigue, the}' jorolonged their sitting to the silence of the night, and
listened to all the details of the glorious message."
While the tribe halted between two opinions, hesitating whether they should
abandon their old beliefs and accept the doctrine of the white men, a death-inflict-
ing disease came among them, probably small-pox, and at the moment it raged with
greatest violence, one of the dying, afterwards called Stephen, announced that he
had heard a voice from heaven, saying, "Cast down th}' idols; adore Jesus Christ,
and thou shalt be cured."
"The dying man," says Father Point, "believed the word and was cured. He
went about the camp and related what had taken place: all the sick who heard him
imitated his example, and recovered their health. I have this fact from the mouth
of the savages who heard the voice from heaven, and the same has been confirmed
by eye-witnesses."
However, remarks Father Point, as neither constancy nor reflection is to be
found in the savage, the greater part of the Coeur d'Alenes relapsed into idolatry,
hastened in this reactionary tendency by the influence of the medicine men.
"Such," says Father Point, "was pretty nearly the condition of the people
when Providence sent among them the Rev. Father DeSmet. His visit disposed
them so much in favor of the Blackgowns, that it was determined I should be sent
to their aid. Three months after, that is, at the doSe 'of the hunting expeditions
of the autumn of 1812, I left St. Mary's to place the new converts under the pro-
tection of the Sacred Heart of Jesus."
Father Point arrived among the Coeur d'AlenCs" the 'fii-st Friday in November,
and on the first Friday in December, lifted,' -with chant and prayer, the cross on
the shore of a lake where the savages had gathered for fishing. As the first mission
of the Sacred Heart was reared on the banks of the St. Joseph river, this lake was
probably the Coeur d'Alene, or Chatcolet lake adjacent to the mouth of the St.
.rost])!!. Soon these Indians "spoke no more of their assemblies of imposters, their
diabolical visions, nor superstitious ceremonies, which had before been so common;
and most important of all, gambling, which had always occupied a great portion
of their time, was two weeks afterwards abandoned; the conjugal bond, which for
centuries, perhaps, had known among them neither unity nor indissolubility, was
brought back to its primitive character; and a beautiful sight was presented by
the medicine men themselves, who, with their own hands, did justice to the wretched
instruments hell had used to deceive them. During the long nights of that period
it will not be necessary to tell how many sacrifices were made of feathers, wolves'
tails, stags' feet, deer's hoofs, wooden images, etc."
With the advent of early spring the Indians assembled at the chosen site for
tile mission, and with enthusiasm and industry set about the building of a village,
formed upon the ancient plans in Paraguay, under which each one contributed ac-
142 SPOKANE AND THl. IMAM) EMPIRE
cording to his stniifitli .iiul iiiclu.stry. Trcis win- filltd for cabins, roads opened,
a church erected and the public fields enclosed, broken and planted.
From the 9tii of Sei)tenil)cr to the date of this letter, a jjcriod of six months,
"not one single fault wliieli can be called serious," adds Father Point, "has been
committed in the villagf of tiie Sacred Heart of Jesus; and a great many who
re]iroaclied themselves with light failings, cease not to make public confession in
terms of grief. I have seen husbands come after their wives, and mothers after
their daughters, not to excuse the accusations they had made, but to acknowledge
that tlieir want of patience and humility were the cause of the failings of others.
"It is worthy of remark that of all the adults who had not yet received baptism,
and all who united to prepare for tin ir first communion, not one was judged un-
worthy to receive the sacraments. Their simplicity, piety, charity, and especially
their faith, were admirable. And truly all these virtues were necessary for these
good old men, wlio, for the sake of learning their prayers, had to become the
scholars of their cliildren, and for the children to enable them to do violence to
their natural viv.icity, while thej* slowly communicated to their old parents and
grandparents, a ))art of what they had learned; and the chiefs would rise at the
dawn of day, and sometimes in the middle of the night, to exhort their peojjle to
weep over their sins."
Father Point has left us an affectionate deseri|)ti(in of the sacrament of the
holy communion, conferred in the little church in the wilderness by the venerable
Fatller Joset, whose labors have entered so extensively into the early history of
the Catholic church in Spokane:
"The church was small; it measured in lengtli fifty feet, and in breadth twentv-
four. It was indeed poor, but from every part of the wall and ceiling, were sus-
pended rich festoons of leaves. While the stars were still shining in the firmament,
the chant, Lauda Sion, was heard. But who sung that divine canticle.'' The sav-
ages who lately addressed their prayers only to the animals of their mountains.
It was Father Joset who had the hai)])iness to distribute to them the bread
of life — a happiness so much the more felt, as he had just arrived among them.
Before they approached the holy table, he addressed them a few words; but the
tender piety apparent in ail at the moment of communicating, made him fear to
S))oil the work of God by adding more words of his own. and hi- li ft tlu tn to their
own devotion."
As repeated (locids in the St. Joseph river showed that the first site of the mis-
sion had been unfortunately chosen, the elnireli and village of Sacred Heart were
moved in ISIG to a more salubrious spot on the Coeur d'Alenc river.
VISITED BY GOVKR.VOH STKVENS
W'JK n (iovirnor lsa;ie I. .Stevens eaiiie into this eduntrv in IS."i.!. in the three
fold capacity of govtrncM- iil Wasliiiiglon territory, Indian commissioner to treat
with various tribes between D.ikota and Puget Sound, and searcher out of north-
ern routes for :i transcontinental railniad. he visited this beautiful mission. Late
on an Oetolier evening with .Vntoim IM irit for guide, he came to the mission door
and sought hospitality of the fathers then in charge. "The mission," said .Stevens
in his official rejxirt to the secretary of w.ir, "is beautifully located upon a hill
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 143
overlooking extensive prairies stretching to the enst and west toward the Coeur
d'Alenc mountains and the Columbia river. Aliout 100 acres of the eastern prairie
adjoining the mission are enclosed and under cultivation, furnishing employment
to thirty or forty Indians — men, women and children. I observed two ploughing,
which they executed skilfully; others were sowing wheat, and others digging po-
tatoes.
"Pere Gazzoli received me with the most pleasing hospitality. Associated with
liim are Pere Ravalli, now absent to secure supplies, and Brothers Charles Huett
and Maginn. The latter, however, is a lay brother, attached to the Pend d'Oreille
mission, who is here at this time to assist in harvesting.
"Towards evening I witnessed the burial of an Indian chief. The funeral serv-
ices were conducted after tlie Catholic form, and I was struck with the harmonious
voices of the Indian choristers, and with their solemn observance of the ceremonies.
"The mission is composed of buildings enclosing a square. Some of them are
quite old, but the barn is large and new. The church stands a little distance from,
the rest, and does much credit to those who erected it. It is constructed on a plan
designed by Pere Ravalli, and is of the Roman demi-style of architecture. Pulleys
and ro])es were the only mechanical aids in the construction. Pere Ravalli is quite
an architect, and drew up many designs before the one selected was adopted. In
his room, which I was kindlj' given to occupy, was his library. I observed that it
contained several standard works on architecture. The church was not completed,
although sufficiently so for the performance of services within. The interior is
prettily arranged. The altar is supported by two massive timbers of ]3ine which
are about four feet in diameter. We were informed that in erecting these pillars,
an Indian who %vas holding one of them became frightened and let it fall, fortu-
nately without injury to any one. The priests live in a self-denying manner, and the
good effects of their influence over the Indians around them are plainly manifest.
"There is quite a village of Indians near the mission. Thej' have some half
dozen log-houses, but most of them live in lodges.
"While awaiting the arrival of the train, I was enabled more particularly to
observe the manner in which the affairs of the mission were conducted. Brother
Charles has charge of the buildings and attends to the indoor work, cooks, makes
butter and cheese, issues provisions, and pays the Indians for their work, which
payment is made in tickets bearing a certain value, 'good for so many potatoes or
so much wheat,' etc. By this management the Indians are able to procure their
subsistence in the summer by hunting and fishing, and have tickets in store for liv-
ing during t!)e winter. They are well contented, and I was pleased to observe
habits of industry growing upon them. In the barn we saw their operations of
threshing: four boys rode as many mules abreast around in a circle, being followed
by two girls witli flails, who appeared to be perfectly at home in their business.
One half of the barn is reserved for their crops, while the other is arranged for
cattle. Their stock at present consists of twenty cows, eight pairs of oxen and
ninety pigs, which are driven to pasture upon the prairie by Indians boys daily.
I noticed an Indian woman milking, and was surprised to see her use both hands,
something rarely seen among the Indians. We afterwards visited the field — a large
fire was burning, and around it sat Indians roasting and eating potatoes. There
144 SPOKANE AND Till. INLAND EMI'IHK
appeared to be a great scarcity of ])roper implements, and in digging potatoes I
noticed that many had nothing better than sharpened sticks."
Governor Stevens remarked that Brotlier Maginii declared himself to be, like
many other naturali/.td citizens, a good democrat, inquired who was president of
the United States, and appeared to be much pleased when informed that he was a
democrat.
Two years later, in .linif. 1855, Governor Stevens revisited this mission. "We
were received in the most hospitable and cordial manner, and remained there the
next day," says his official report. "To show something of the privations which
the missionaries have to undergo, I will remark that Fatlur Ravalli, in his recent
trip from Tiie Dalles, li.ui the assistance of only two Indians and an Indian boy
in bringing up a train of twcntj'-two pack animals. He was obliged to see per-
sonally to tile packing of each one of his animals, doing most of the manual labor
himself, and could not get off (though he commenced at early dawn) until towards
ten o'clock in the morning."
On the occasion of tlie governor's first visit to the mission, the Indians were
called in from the fields, and he addressed them, saying:
"I am glad to see you and find that you are under sueii good direction. I have
come four times as far as you go to hunt buffalo, and have come with directions
from the Great Father to see you, to t.ilk to you. and to do all I can for your wel-
fare. I see cultivated fields, a clnirch, houses, cattle, and the fruits of the earth,
the work of your own hands. The (ireat Father will be delighted to hear this, and
wiU certainly assist you. Go on, and every f.imily will have a house, and a patch
of ground, and every one will be well clothed. 1 have had talks with the Black-
feet, who promise to make peace with all the Indian tribes. Listen to the good
father and to the good brothers who labor for your good."
That evening the governor had a long conversation with the father and brothers,
and on leaving the next morning he made glad the heart of Brother Ciiarlcs by
presenting him a number of lariats for use in raising the timbers of the uncom-
pleted church.
On the occasion of the governor's second visit to the mission, in June, 1855,
the fathers and lay iirotiiers took tlir n.illi of allegiance to the government of the
United States, and signed naturalization papers. Stevens remarked that they
seemed much pleased with the idea of becoming American citizens,
IN THE YAKIMA VAI,LEV
Captain George B. McClellan, when traveling down the Yakima in 1853, visited
tile mission in that valley, and George Gibbs, a member of his expedition, has left
us this description: "The mission, which, in summer, is maintained in the Ahtanum
valley, is transferred (with the moving of the Indians in winter) into that of the
main river. There are two priests attached to this mission, belonging to the order
of the Oiilats, Fathers Pandozy and d'Harbomey. The stations are small log
buildings, divided into a chapel and lodging room, with a corral for horses and a
spot of enclosed garden ground adjoining the one at Ahtanum. The fathers in-
formed us th.-it they found the Yakimas not verj' teachable, and that they had
accomplislii tl little except as peacemakers; the Indians were lazy and cultivated
SPOKANE AND THE IXLAXD EMPIRE 145
tli( ground with but little regularity, some years not planting at all. They did not
believe that a resident farmer would be of use. The Indians, however, say, and
justly, that they have no tools, and but little inducement to labor, their country
attording other subsistence, and the toil of planting with their own rude imple-
ments not being compensated by the results. With proper encouragement, and
assistance in breaking up the ground, they would doubtless do more. It is probably
an object with the missionaries to discourage secular residents, who might divide
their own influence over the natives.
"The courteous attention of these gentlemen to the officers of the expedition
requires acknowledgment. They furnished all the information in their power re-
specting the country, secured good guides to the parties, and acted as interpreters
witli the Indians. Father Pandozy, in particular, is familiarly acquainted with the
Yakima tongue. Kamiaken is the only one of the three brothers who has adopted
even the forms of Catholicism, and he refuses to be baptized, because he would be
compelled to put away his surplus wives, of whom he has several."
Gibbs states that a number of Yakimas professed to have a remedy for small-
pox. "Father Pandozy, one of the missionaries, informed me that he believed it
to be the root of a species of iris. He had once tasted it, and it acted as a violent
emetic. The Spokanes have also another and different specific. It is known to
but few persons, having been gradually forgotten since the former visitation. Re-
cently, when it broke out in one of the Spokane villages, an old woman, who was
blind, described it to her daughter, and directed her to proceed towards Kamiaken's
country, and that if she encountered none in lier way, to get from him some of
which he used. The girl, however, did find the herb and returned with it. The
mother prepared the medicine, and the smallpox was .stayed, but not until it had
nearly destroyed the village. We were not successful in obtaining specimens of this
|)lant, but Father Pandozy kindly promised to save some when opportunity offered.
In regard to tliis disease, the greatest .scourge of the red man, it has passed through
this region more than once, and was probably the first severe blow which fell upon
the Oregon tribes. Its appearance seems to have been before any direct intercourse
took place with the whites, and it may have found its way northward from Cali-
fornia. Captains Lewis and Clark conjectured, from the relations of the Indians,
and the apparent age of individuals marked with it, that it had prevailed about
tliirty years before their arrival. It also spread with great virulence in 1843. From
tlie other, and no less sure, destroyer of the coast tribes, the venereal, the Yakimas,
and generally the Indians east of tlie mountains, are, as yet, exempt. Spirituous
liquors have never been introduced into tluir country, at lea.st beyond the neigh-
borhood of The Dalles."
ST. Michael's mission ne.\r spokane
From a manuscript in the Spokane public library, written by one of the resi-
dents at Gonzaga college, we extract the following:
In the '6()s St. Michael's mission to tiie Indians was founded on Peone (jr.iirie,
nine miles northeast of Spokane. Ba])tiste Peone was the chief. In 1863 he
became a Catholic, and from that time till the winter of 1866, when Father Cataldo
made the first attempt to establish a permanent mission on the prairie, the converted
Vol. 1—1(1
146 SPOKANK AND THK IM.AM) EMPIRE
chief's home was the stopping; iilace of tlie missionaries on tlnir periodical visits
to the Spoiiane Indians. 1 atlicr (alaldii liaving been assigned to work among them,
his first care was to jjroeure a chapel wiiereiii to hold services, but they o])poscd
him, and declared that in the absence of the head chief thev coidd not assume the
resjionsibility of granting his request. But as tin eliit f was nut In return for some
time, the Father told the Indians that he would erect achalJel, and then if they did
not desire to have it, he would totally destroy it at the end of three months. W'itii
some murmurings they assented to this ])roposition, and forthwith Father Cataldo
erected a log structure, about two miles from the ])resent St. Michael's mission.
When the three months had ehqjsed, nearly .ill of the Indians had become Catholic,
and when Father Cataldo expressed a willingness to destroy tiu' chapel .'is he had
promised, the new converts, of a different mind now. strongly olijeetcd, one of the
chiefs boldly declaring that if the head ciiiif did not like what had been done in
his absence, he could go clscwheri- : and as Inr llu- I'atlu r's Icax ing, they would
only consent to that ui)on the terms tli.it another be sent in his place.
For some time after the foundation of this mission, it was very hard to get
fathers to go there, as so much other work was to be done, and as a consequence
the Indians grew dissatisfied and went to the Protestant faith.
In 1878 the mission w;is moved to the present site, about three mibs from
Hillyard. and .i jiriest sent there to officiate regul.irly. There were .about COO in
the .S))okane trilie at th.at time, and of these the Catholics numbered one li.ilf.
The Indians of this section used to gather together and do their hunting by
driving tlie game onto Peone ])rairie. tliere killing .-md ))orlioning it. In the fall
they would .assemble and st.art out for deer, the bunt taking about ;i month. An
Indian was ]ilaced at a deer tr.-iil. and if there were not enough Indians, they would
build a fire in tile trail and ))iit sonii' iiioee.isins on the (ire to drive the deer back.
.\fter a few days the Indians would start tow.irds the prairie, driving the deer
before them, and when they reached the jir.airie there was great feasting and re-
joicing if the hunt bad Ixeii a ))rofitable one.
The Indi.ans did their (isbing at the mouth of the I.ittle .Sjiokane. They would
make two nets. on<- consider.ibly higher than the other, and stretch these across the
river, the liiglur net .-iboxc the lower. The fish which they w<re after, known as
the s'chihiizc in Indian, never went backw.irds; they were caught in the sjiace
between the two nets, and .at the end of the season were dried .uid i)reservid for
food during the winter.
At the beginning of the Xe/ Perce Indian war. Chief .losepli sent messengers to
Scltis, then chief of the Coeur d'Alenes, asking him to join in the war .against the
whites. Seltis refused point lil.ink. .ind furlhennore took st< ps to protect the
whites in the neighborhood of the Coeur d'Alene tribe, .loseph's men had raided
some of Ihe settlements in the Palouse country, and -Seltis. luaring of this outrage,
imniediatclv gatli( red togilb<r bis men .-iiid set out to recapture the towns that
were said to be raided, and then sent for the whites that had taken refuge in some
of tlic nein-hboring settlements to return to their f.arms and towns, .and he would pro-
tect them and see that no liann cniu In IIk ni. The Colf.ix ))eo|)Ie. soon after this
maunaniinous ,ict of .Seltis, .isked him and Ins nun to come to Colf.ax and a banquet
would be given in his honor. Hut tlu' old chief politely refused, as he feared that fire-
water would bi- flowing, and it would not Im g I for his men to attend. The chief
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 147
was also great in other ways, as he had been invited to Washington several times
by the presidents of that day, but he always refused, as he thought it prudent to
stay with and protect his tribe from the ravages of the unscrupulous.
St. Michael's is no longer used to teach the Indian, but as an adjunct to Gon-
zaga it furnishes a portion of the farm produce used by that institution, and gives
a quiet resting place for the tired and overworked fathers and scholastics.
The site was on a slight rise above Chief Peone's camp, and overlooking it so
that nearly all parts of the prairie could be seen. There was no water at the site,
but the Indians furnished all the necessaries of life, even while they were at outs
with the rest of the whites. The priests never suffered for the lack of anything.
Two structures were erected side by side, one of them a small residence for the
])riest, ,ind tlie other a chapel where services were held. These buildings were
destroyed a few years ago by fire caught from a surrounding field. The old grave-
yard to the east of the mission site still remains, and the graves of the Indians may
be seen. Tiie practice of buryitig above the ground was not followed after the
advent of liic mission, and all the graves were marked with crosses, whicli may be
seen today. The graves are enclosed in little log huts, with six or eight buried in
each enclosure.
Rev. Jose]ih M. Caruana, S. J., came in 1862. "In September, 1862," said he,
"I baptized seventeen Indian children on the very spot wliere now is located the
Nortlicrn P;icific depot, then occupied by a large Indian camp fisliing for white
salmon. The whole country, on botli sides of the river, was covered with Indian
tepees and bands of cayuses." In ISei Father Caruana made the acquaintance of
James Monaghan, at his ierry down the river, and about the same time of another
white man, Camille Lanctau, who had been rmniing a ferry for two or three years,
seven miles below the falls.
"About 1866," adds Father Caruana, "was built tlie first store in the Spokane
valley, at what we now call Spokane bridge. Of course that store was started and
kejjt by white people. It was also the nearest postoffice we had. Our previous
postoffice was in ^\'alla Walla."
For a continuation of the early-day labors of Catholic missionaries and priests
the reader is directed to the chapter on "Catholic Institutions of Spokane."
, Tf^E NEW YOfiff
P^^UC UBRAR]
"Tso, Uifx
-J"-"^'' FOOH,
^riaNi
CHAPTER XVI
GOVERNOR STEVENS' OVERLAND EXPEDITION OF 1853
FIRST GOVERNOR CLOTHED WITH REMARKABLE POWERS ON THE SUMMIT OF THE COEUH
d'alENES GUEST OF CATHOLIC FATHERS AT OLD MISSION IN CAMP AT WOLF's
LODGE GOVERNOR OBSERVES SPOKANES AT THEIR DEVOTIONS FIRST VIEW OF LAKE
COEUR d'aLENE MARCHING DOWN THE SPOKANE VALLEY GOVERNOR VISITS THE
FALLS INDIAN VILLAGE AT MOUTH OF HANGMAN CREEK PUZZLED BY CHIEF
GARRY FORCED RIDE TO COLVILLE MEETS CAPT. GEORGE B. m'cLELLAN BOUNTI-
FUL SUPPER SERVED BY MRS. m'dONALD STEAKS COOKED IN BUFFALO FAT LISTENS
TO TALES OF ADVENTURE.
His life was gentle; and the elements
So mix'd in liim, that Nature migiit stand up,
And say to all the world, "This was a man!"
— Shakespeare.
CROSSING the country from St. Paul to Puget Sound, to assume office at
01yni])ia, Isaac I. Stevens, first governor of the infant territorj', looked
upon tlie troubled waters at Spokane, October 17, 18,53. This region showed
then little change from the appearance it presented to the fur traders of tlie rival
Astor and Nortiiwest companies, nearly fifty years before. TIic old regime of
the Hudson's Bay company had all but disappeared, the Protestant missionaries
had left the country five years before, but Catholic missions still flourished, and
under their tutelage and the still prevailing influences of the Protestant workers,
the Indians had come noticeablj^ under the sway of civilization and peace; the
industrious had grown prosperous, and some of tlieni men of relative wealth.
Wide and far-sweeping was the domain over which this brave, energetic and able
soldier came to rule, comprising the area now embraced within the boundaries of
Washington state, and including as well the Panliandle of northern Idaho and a
large section of western Montana, sweeping eastward to the summits of the Rocky
mountains.
One better fitted, by temperament, education and training, or by knowhdge of
human nature, refined or savage, to fill the new oflice and meet its grave and per-
))lexing duties, President Pierce could scarce have found if he had searched the
heart and soul of every strong and able American, north or south. Nearly sixty
years have drifted by since Stevens came into the ultimate west; the young terri-
tory has grown rich, ])opulous and sovereign; but a greater man than Isaac Ingalls
149
150 Sl'OKANi: AM) •I'll)-. INt.WI) KMI'IHF,
Stevens it lias yet to produce. Had he not fallen in one of the early battles of the
civil war, his genius might have swept him to the head of the Union forces; for in
bold resolution, in leadership of men, and ability to grajjple with dangers and ditfi^
culties, lie showed himself vastly the superior of Captain George B. McClellan when,
side by side, they played their parts on the broad stage of the Pacific northwest. But
Stevens was to fall in early action, and McClellan to command tlie Union armies,
and temporize on the Potomac as he had procrastinated on the Columbia.
Stevens came clothed with remarkable powers. Additional to his governorship,
he commanded a large and thoroiiglily equijjpid expedition to search out ])asses and
routes for a railroad from the Mississijipi to Puget Sound, and was empowered to
negotiate treaties with Indian tribes between the Dakotahs and the Pacific.
"It is ditticult," says the son. Hazard Stevens, in his 'Life of General Isaac I.
Stevens.' "to realize the magnitude of the task here outlined. It was to traverse
and explore a domain '2,0(1() miles in length by 250 in bre.ulth, stretching from
the Mississippi riMr to tin- Pacific ocean, across 1,000 miles of arid jjlains
and two great mountain ranges, a region almost unexplored, and infested by pow-
erful tribes of predatory and warlike savages; to determine the navigability of the
two great rivers, the Missouri and the Columbia, which intersect the region; to
locate by reconnoissance and to survey a practicable railroad route; to examine the
mountain passes and determine the depth of winter snow in them; to collect all
possible information on the geology, climate, flora and fauna, as well as the topog-
raphy, of the region traversed; .-md finally to treat with the Indians on the route,
cultivate their friendship, and eolltet information as to their langu.-iges, numbers,
customs, traditions and history; and all this, including the work of preparation
and organization, to be aeeomplished in a single season."
After months of scientific labor, Stevens and his party attained, on a fair Octo-
ber day, the summit of the Coeur d'Alene mountains, and from those char heiglits
the governor looked down upon .-i large p.irt of his inipi rial doiiiaiti. In his official
reports he has left a description of that scene:
"Upon awakening this morning we were surprised to be greeted by one of the
loveliest days imagin.-ible. Tlie sky was clear, and tin- air as soft and balmy as a
morn in summer. .After striking e.-im)), we ascended to tlie highest point of the
ridge, about one mile ,iii(j a hall' Ironi e.imp. Here we made a long halt, enjoying the
magnificent view s|)re;Kl open to us, which, I venture to say, can scarcely be sur-
])assed in any country. Far distant in the east the peaks of the Rocky mountains
loom u]) into view, stretched out to a great length, while the Flathead lake and the
valley thence to the Blaekfoot pass was plainly visible. Nearly the entire range of
the Coeur d'Alene mountains, clothed with evergreen forests, with here and there
an open summit covered with grass; numerous valleys intersecting the country for
miles around ; courses of many streams, marked by the ascending fog, all conduced to
render the view fascinating in the greatest degree to the Ixliolder. The mountains
were covered with luxuriant coarse grass. Seated on lliis pdint, Mr. .St.inhy was
enabled to tr.msfer this beautiful panorama to his sketch-book.
"Diseending the ])cak to the general level of the ridge, we eoiitiinied on for
nearly six miles, wIk ri I Ik descent commenced, and in less than tlirce miles we
jiassed down a very steep descent and gained the base of the mountains, which we
estimated rose S-.^OO feet above it. This brought us into a valley filled with gigantic
(u.)VKi;.\()i; sTKVKXs
As a young army Dtticer
II \ZAl;|) STKVKXS
Tlic (idvermir's son, who, as a
liov of tliii-teen. witnessed
tlie great conncil at
Walla Walla
KlIAXCIS J. I). WOLFF
Willi was with (Invcrnor
Stcvnis
(iOVKRXOR STKVKX8
in ISo:.
■''fe:?^^^
>CAMP
WASHINGTON
185300X1908
.1* ♦- :
MOXIIMKXT KRKCTED OX SITK OF
(;AMI' WASHINGTON
•^ THE :>£W VuRK 1
Public library
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 151
cedars. The larch, spruce and vine maple are found in today's march in large
(luantities, the latter giving a pleasing variety to the forest growth. About four
o'clock we encamped on the bank of the stream, which here grows much wider."
The expedition was now on the headwaters of the south fork of the Coeur
d'Akne river, and descending that valley, the governor, guided by Antoine Plant
(if the Spokane valley, drew rein late that evening at the hospitable doors of the
Catholic mission.
Under the vigilant eye of Governor Stevens this extensive government expe-
dition had traversed the wide prairies of the Dakotahs, crossed over the Rocky moun-
tains, and descended into our beautiful Inland Empire, without encountering serious
mishap. Perhaps a better conception of the character of the expedition and the
military rigor of its government en route will be obtained from the following orders
which were issued early in the campaign by Governor Stevens:
"The most careful attention to animals is enjoined upon all persons engaged in
this expedition, and will be rigidly enforced. The animals must not go beyond a
walk, except in case of necessity; and each mounted man must walk some four or
five miles each day to rest his animal, unless it be impracticable, in consequence of
his duties. At halts, men must dismount.
"On the march the train will keep together as much as possible; the speed of
the wagons will be regulated by Governor Stevens' ambulance or wagon, or by the
instrument wagon. The acting quartermaster will regulate the pace of the lead-
ing team in such a manner that all other teams can keep up without forcing the
mules. No person except guides, or those having permission, will precede the train
by more than one-fourth of a mile, or go further from it than that distance, unless
in case of necessity, or for the performance of some duty."
Camp regulations were embodied in the following order:
1. Tliere is no such thing as an escort to this expedition. Each man is
escorted by every other man. Tire chiefs of the scientific corps will, equally with
the officers of the army, act as officers of the guard. It is confidently believed that
every member of the expedition will cheerfully do his duty in promoting all the ob-
jects of the expedition, sharing its toils of every description.
2. Each man of the expedition will habitually go armed. The chief of each
party and detachment will rigidly inspect arms each morning and evening. Ex-
cept in extraordinary cases there shall be no march on Sundaj'. On that day thert
will be a thorough inspection of persons and things. Clothes should be washed and
mended, and, if water can be found, each man will be required to bathe his whole
person. This course is taken to secure health.
3. The Indian country will be reached in ten days. There is no danger to be
apprehended, except from the want of vigilance of gniards, and the carelessness of
single men. The chief of a party or detachment will inspect the guard from time
to time in the night, and report every case of inattention to duty.
4. It will be the habitual rule of each member of the scientific corps to take
charge of his own horse, and to take from and place in the wagon his owii personal
baggage. As private servants are not allowed, the necessity of this rule will be
apparent. There are exceptional cases, however, as the chief of a party, or wliere
great labor has to be performed.
.). There will be no firing of any descri))tion, either in camp or on tlie march.
152 Sl'OkANj: AND Till-: INLAND L.Ml'lUK
ext'ipl by tlic luiiitfrs and {;;uidts, and certain mcmhcrs of tlif scii-ntific corps,
u-itliout permission of tin- cliitf of tlic ixi)i(lition, or, in case of detacliments, of the
officer in cliarge of tin- dttaclmuiit.
Leaving the Coeur d'Alene mission on tlie morning of Oetolxr Lj, the expedition
encam])ed "in a beautiful prairie, ealbd the Wolf's Lodgi-, with good grass. " Here
tlie governor met a party of 100 S|)i)kaMes. with .iOO horses on their wav to hunt
buffalo on the plains beyond the Rocky mountains.
"Towards sundown this evening." wrote Stevens, "I w.is gre.itly interisted in
observing our frii nds, the Sjjokanes, at their devotions. .\ hell rang, .iiid the wliole
band gathered in and around a large lodge for evening prayers. There was some-
thing soleuni and |).ithetie in the evening ])sahii resounding through the forests
around us. This shows what good nsults can Mow from the l.ibor of devoted mis-
sionaries; for the Spokanes had had no religious instruction for tile last five vears.
As I went down the river, and met b.-ind .after band of the .Sj)okanes, I inv.-iri.iblv
found the same reg.ird for religions services. .Vfterw.irds they came around mv
(■.•inip-(ire and we had a talk, Tliey tell me that six d.iys since Governor Ogden (of
the Hudson's Bay eom])any) and three gentlemen, witii some soldiers, left Walla
Wall.-i for Colville to un-et me. (jarry. they say, is at his f.arm, four miles from the
S|iok.ine House. 1 s|)oke to tin in .also with reference to being on friiiidlv terms
with the Coeur d'Alenes. "
\\ itii quick and prophetic eye Cioxenior .Stevens took notice of the opportuni-
ties for future settlement: "The country through which we have ))assed today,
though obstructed with f.allen timber, .■ind rolling, ,ind at times broken in surface,
was Jirable, .and nuiinded uu' of a gre.at de.al of country th.it I h.ave seen in New
F.ngl.md, wiiere there are now productive farms."
He was of >Lass.achusetts birth, seventh in descent troiii the first settler .it
.Vndover. ,ind h.i\ing been brought u|) from inf.iiiev .iiuid New Engl.and nur-
roundiiigs. where h.ird-willed men h.id struggled with .adverse nature and come off
victorious from the conibjit, li.ad developed a jieculiar f.aculty for coni))rehcnding,
almost within ;i gl.inee, the future jiroductive possibilities of ;i broad region wliieb
tlien Lay wild and sav.agely beautiful. He h.ad develoiied, too, a system of gath-
ering inform.ition by (|uestioning occasional settlers, tr.ipiiers and missionaries, as
chance g.ive him tiie desired op])ortunity. He w;is evi'r re.idv for ,i "t.ilk" with
chief or lie.id m.ui. .and often, .after ,i d.iy of the severest tr.ivel, would eagerly sit up
h.ilf the night or more to dr.iw out the eoiiversation.il jiowers of his frontier host,
from the good f.athers .-iikI brolliirs .at the Coeur d'.Meue luission he le.irned th.at
"the country intermediate between this and Cl.ark's fork on the I'eiid d't)reille Lake
is arable, well-watered, .and not much inti-rsected by sjiurs or ridges."
.Soon .after le.a\ing e.ainp on the uioriiing of the sixteenth the parf\- came in \ iew
of Lake Co( ur d'Alene, shimniering below them in the mellow October sunlight, .and
eleven miles from camp "struck it near its western extremity." Stevens described
the Lake .as "a beautiful sheet of w.iler surrouncled by pieturescpie hills mostly
covered with wood. Its sh.ape is irregul.ir, unlike that given it upon the m.ips. Its
w.atcrs are received from the Coeur d'.Mene river, which rinis through it. Helow
the Lake the ri\-er is not i-.asily n.avigable, there being iii.any rapids, .and iu numerous
inst.ances it widens greatly and runs sluggishly through ,a sli.allow ch.annel. .\bovc
the Lake I am infornud bv the mission.aries that it is navigable nearly to the mis-
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 153
sion. Upon the eastern side appears a range of hills, along the eastern base of wliich
I think the road from the mission to Walla Walla passes."
Leaving the lake, at the site of the present city of Coeur d'Alene, the expedition
followed down the Spokane river on its northern liank, passing a camp of Coeur
d'Alenes occupied with their trout fisheries.
When Governor Stevens entered the country, the Spokane river, from the lake
to the mouth of the Little Spokane, still bore the fur traders' designation, the
Coeur d'Alene, and the Spokane valley was called the Coeur d'Alene prairie. The
broad region sweeping westward from the falls to the Columbia, bearing the present
day designation of the Big Bend country, was then termed the Spokane plains.
Passing on down the valley, the party "witnessed a touching sight, a daughter
administering to her dying father;" and still keeping through open woods, "on a
most excellent road, in two miles further came to the Coeur d'Alene prairie, a
beautiful tract of land containing several hundred square miles. Trap rock, pro-
jecting above the surface of the ground, borders the river as we enter the prairie."
Continuing on, they met a half breed, Francis Finlay, on his way from his home
at Colville to the Bitter Root valley with his family, "among whom we saw his
pretty half-breed daughter." They impressed the governor as being well dressed
and presenting "a very respectable appearance. "
Tiirec miles before reaching the niglit's encam]jment, they met a party of Spo-
kanes who informed them that Chief Garry was at his farm and was holding there
some of the horses that had been left with him by Lieutenant Saxton, who had come
in from the Columbia river to join the main expedition in the interior.
Leaving camp, the governor, accompanied by Antoine the guide, Osgood and
the artist Stanley, "turned from the trail to visit the falls of the Coeur d'Alene
river (the Spokane), wiiile Lavette took the train ahead on the trail to the Spokane
House. There are two principal falls," reported Stevens, "one of twenty feet
and the other of from ten to twelve feet; in the latter there being a perpendicular
fall of seven or eight feet; for a quarter of a mile the descent is rapid, over a rough
bed of rocks, and in this distance we estimate a fall of 90 to 100 feet," rather an
under-estimate, both of the main falls and of the total descent of the river.
One mile below tiie falls, at the mouth of Hangman creek, the governor found a
small Indi.in village whose inhabitants were catching salmon. He "noticed one
large woman, who seemed to pride herself u))on her person, which she took jiains to
set off in the most becoming manner, by means of a blanket wrapped around her."
The road from Hangman creek to Spokane House, at the mouth of the Little
Spokane, was described as passing over "a sandy prairie interspersed with groves
of pine. Crossing a dividing ridge with high and steep banks, we came into the
prairie in which the Siiokane House is situated, in which were two Spokane villages.
We inquired for Garry, and I sent him a request that he would visit me at my camp.
The train we found a mile below the junction, across the Spokane. The Indians
indicating a good cami) some distance luyond, we moved on eight and a half miles to
it, which we reached half an hour before sundown. Here there was good grass and
plenty of water, and we soon made up a large campfire."
After arranging matters in camp, the governor observed, after nightfall, a tire
down the river, "and strolling down to the place came ujion a camp of Spokane
Indians, and found them engaged in religious services, which I was o-lad of the
154 SI'OK.WT. AND TIIF. IXI.AXn EMPIRE
opportunity to wiliuss. Tliere were three or four men, as many women, and half
a dozen chiklnii. Their exercises M-ere: 1, address; 2, Lord's prayer; ,'!. jisahus;
i, benediction; and were conducted with great solemnity."
In its work of exi)loring routes for a transcontinental railroad, the United States
govcrniiunt had .-Kidijttd the jilan apiilied more than forty years before bv John
.laeol) Astor in iiis ixild enter])rise of foundinji' on tlir northwest coast of America
his Pacific Eur comp.iny. namely, of sending one expedition overland and a second
by sea, around ('a|)r iloi-n and into the Columbia river. On Governor Stevens'
request, command ol the water expedition had been entrusted to Captain George
B. McClellan. "As the route was new and eomi)aratively unexplored," savs Stevens,
"it was determined to organize the whole command into two divisions — the eastern
division being under m_v immediate direction, and the western division under Captain
George 13. MeCh ll.in. of tlie corps of engineers, who was ordered to report to me,
and whose field ol duty is best shown by the following extract from the general
instructions: 'A second party will proceed at once to Puget Sound and explore the
passes of the Cascade range, meeting the eastern party between that range and the
Rocky mountains, as may be arranged by Governor Stevens.' "
Stevens had reason to believe that McClellan's party was sonu wiun- in tlio
interior, and his object now was to consolidate the two parties and plan out the fur-
ther work of exploration. Garry and a number of other Spokanes came in that even-
ing and "gave rumors of a large party having arrived opposite Colville; also of a
small party having gone from Walla Walla to Colville." There was also a report of
the arrival of a party, at W;dla Walla from the mountains. The governor was further
informed that an old man had just come from the Yakima valley in four days, bring-
ing news of a party operating in that vicinity, towards Colville. "I can not learn,"
wrote Stevens, "whether tlie party is under Ca|)t.iin McClellan or one of iiis officers.
The Indians confirm tin- inti-Uigence given by tlie Cayuse Indians at tin- Coeur
d'Alene mission, that thirty wagons have crossed the Cascades i)y th( niilitarv road,
but rumors vary .is to their success in getting through."
The governor was |)nzzled by Chief Garry's .apparent lack of candor. "Cl.-irry,"
he wrote from the field, "was educated l>y the Hudson's Bay com])any at Red river,
where he lived four years, with six other Indians from this vicinity, all of whom
are now dead. He sj)caks English .ind I'reneh wc 11. and wv Ii.im- hail a long con-
versation this evening; but he is not frank, and I do not understand him," Stevens'
first measure of the Spokane chief squares with the judgment of , lames N. Glover,
who eonsidend lilni ".in old skulker." In justice, however, to the iiuinorv of the
;iged chieftain, wiio lies buried in Greenwood cemetery, we .add tli.it Stevens later
readjusted his first estimate and learned to place much confidence in Garry's sin-
cerity and ability. The chief was tin n eiiltiv .itiiig .in extensive field; lie had learned
farming from Elk.an.ah W.alker, the jiroleslant missionary who labored among the
Spok;i2ies for ne.irly ten ye.ars, and had .a good crop of wheat when Ciovernor Stev-
ens came into his country, and was going to Colville the next day to li.ive some of
it ground .at the old Hudson's Bay mill.
Stevens resolved to i)usli on to ('(iKillr. and at half past eight tin- next morn-
ing broke cani|) .and st.artcd north. On tin way there the.v were joined by an old
Indian from the Y.ikim.a country, who li.ad been directed by Garrv to meet the gov-
ernor and im]);irt further information concerning the jiarty of white men he had
^^A
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, - '■>.■'-:'(
(liMiiiiiiJiiiijmil
THli- ;-,'£w vijRK
PUBUC LIBRARY
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND E.\JPIRE 155
seen beyond the Columbia river. The old man stated that a large party had reachea
the bank of the river opposite Colville tlie day before. "I was satisfied from his
aeeounts, " says Stevens, "that the party was McClellan's, and accordingly deter-
mined on going to Colville tonight. Antoine has horses half way. We rested until
2 o'clock and then set out, Antoine and myself pushing ahead of the train. We
met Antoine's family encamped in a fine prairie, with whom Antoine remained, send-
ing his brother-in-law on witli us as a guide."
At a point twenty-eight miles from Colville the governor was told tiiat he could
not complete the journey that day, as it was growing late and parts of the road
were bad, "but being determined to do so we pushed on and reached Brown's at
5-A5, who informed us that the distance to Colville was eighteen miles. After par-
taking of some bread and milk, we resumed the road with the same animals, dash-
ing off at full speed, going eight or nine miles an hour most of the way, and reached
Colville at nine o'clock. Mr. McDonald, the trader in charge, gave me a most
hospitable reception and addressed a note to McClellan, who had just gone to his
camp near by, informing him of my arrival. ^IcClellan came up immediately, and
though I was fairly worn out with the severity of the ride, we sat up till one
o'clock. At 1 1 we sat down to a nice supper prepared by !Mrs. McDonald and
regaled ourselves with steaks cooked in buffalo fat, giving them the flavor of buf-
falo meat. I retired exhausted with tlie fatigues of the daj'."
"During our staj^ at Colville," wrote Stevens, "we visited McDonald's camp.
Near it there is a mission, under Perc Lewis, whom we visited. The Indians about
the mission are well disposed and religious. In the evening we listened to the
thrilling stories and exciting legends of McDonald, with which his memory seems to
be well stored. He says intelligence had reached him through the Blackfeet of
the coming of my jjarty ; that the Blackfeet gave most singular accounts of every-
thing connected with us. For instance, they said that our horses had claws like
the grizzly bear; they climbed up the steep rocks and held on by their claws; that
their necks were like the new moon ; and that their neighing was like the sound of
distant thunder. McDonald has, of course, given a free translation of the reports
made by Indians.
"We listened to his accounts of his own thrilling adventures of his mountain life,
and a description of an encounter with a party of Blackfeet is well worth relating.
At the head of a party of three or four men he was met by a band of these Indians,
who showed evidences of hostility. By signs he requested the cliief of the Black-
feet to advance and meet him, both being unarmed. When the ciiief assented and
met him half way between tlie two parties, ^McDonald caught him by the hair of
the iiead, and. iiolding iiim firmly, exacted from the remaining Indians promises to
give up their arms, which they accordingly did, and passed on peacably. He has
lived here many years, and is an upright, intelligent, manly and energetic man."
CHAPTER XVII
FROM SPOKANE TO WALLA WALLA AND VANCOUVER
m'cLELLAN procrastinates on the COLUMBIA AND IN THE CASCADES HAD LITTLE
FAITH IN THE COUNTRY STEVENS ASSEMBLES HIS PARTY IN CAMP WASHINGTON
CHEERED BY A KEG OF COGNAC VISITS OLD MISSION ON WALKEr's PRAIRIE COL-
VILLE VALLEY SETTLERS SEEK NATURALIZATION FIELD CAPITAL NEAR SPOKANE
FEASTING IN CAMP WASHINGTON BEEF HEAD, TEXAS FASHION ARMY OFFICERS
SHRINK FROM WINTER SERVICE GARRY TELLS STEVENS OF INDIAN MYTHS ACROSS
THE PALOUSE COUNTRY FINE POTATOES IN WALLA WALLA VALLEY TRIBUTE TO
MARCUS WHITMAN DOWN THE COLUMBIA IN A CANOE GUEST AT VANCOUVER OF
CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE.
McC'LELLAN had been only measurably successful with his end of the work.
He had arrived at Vancouver, on the Columbia on the '27th of June, but
with characteristic disinclination to move until every detail of equipment
and preparation was worked out, he did not jjut his party in motion till July 18,
and then to find, before he had penetrated the Cascade mountains a great distance,
that his thoroughness of preparation was but a handicap, as he had organized a
larger expedition than he could expeditiously move through a tangled and broken
mountain region. Unable to penetrate the western slopes of the Cascades with his
unwieldly expedition, he directed his efforts east of the Cascades, where the country
was more open, and by means of detachments had gleaned a pretty fair knowledge
of the passes as far north as the Methow. McClellan's report on the character of
the prairie country between the Columbia river and Spokane was based on long
range observation. From the summit of a high ridge separating the waters of the
Yakima and the Wenatchee he obtained a view which he described most drearily;
"That portion of the Cascade range which crosses the Columbia sinks into an
elevated plateau, which extends as far as the limit of vision to the eastward; this
is the Spokane Plain. On it we could see no indication of water, not a single tree ;
and except on the mountain spur, not one spot of verdure. It was of a dead, yel-
lowish hue, with large clouds of black blending into the yello\dsh tinge, and
appeared to be a sage desert, with a scanty g^o^vth of dry bunch-grass, and fre-
quent outcroppings of basalt."
"^IcClellan, as appears from his report," says Hazard Stevens in the biogra])hy
of his father, "took a decidedly unfavorable opinion of the country, and of a rail-
road route across the Cascades. He declared in substance that the Columbia river
pass was the only one worth considering, that there was no pass whatever north of
157
158 SPOKANF, AND Till. INLAND KM I'l U i:
it except the Snoqualinic pass, and gave it as his firm and settled opinion that tiir
snow in winter was from twenty to twenty-five feet deep in tliat pass.
"His examination of the i).iss was a very hasty and cursory onr. with no other
instruments than a comjjass and a barometer, and extended only three miles across
the summit. His only information as to the deptii of winter snow was the reports
of Indians, and the ni;irks of snow dm tin trcis. or wliat he took to be such. Thus
the most important jxiint, the real probli iii of the field of exploration entrusted to
him, namely, the existence and character of the Cascade ])asses, he failed to deter-
mine. He failed utterly to respond to (jovernor Stevens' earnest and manly exhor-
tation, 'We must not be frightened with long tunnels, or enormous snows, but set
ourselves to work to overcome them.' He manifested the same dilatoriness in prep-
aration .111(1 moving, the same timidity in .Ktioii. tin- same magnifying of difficulties,
that later marked and ruined his career .is .m army commander.
"Tm'o railroads now cross tile r.ange wliieli he examined — tlu Nortiurn I'.uific.
by a pass just .south of the Snoqualmie and north of the Nahchess, the very ])laee of
which McClellan reported that 'tlicrc ecrt.-iinly is none between this (the Snoqual-
mie) and the Nahchess pass;' .iiiii tin (iir.il Northern, by a ])ass at the head of the
Wenatchee or Pisquouse river, of which stream he declared, 'It appears certain that
there can be no jiass at its head for a ro.-id.' The snows he so much exaggerated
have proved no obstacle, and in fact h;ivc .letn.-illy caused less trouble and obstruc-
tion in these passes than in the Columbi.i pass itself."
Since the foregoing was written. .Snoiinnlmie jiass has been ajipropriated by
the Cliicago, Milwaukee & St. I'.iiil. iiul R. E. Strahorn's Nortii Coast system
has fouii(! .ui excellent ))ass farther to the south, and following closely, in fact, the
line of iii-ir( li followed by McClellan between \',incouver and the valley of the
Yakima.
Hazard ,Stevens adds that one of the lines of the Xorthern Pacific (the Mullan
branch from Missoula) now crosses the Coeur d'.AIene pass on Governor Stevens'
route, to the vicinity of the mission, running thence south of Coeur d'Alenc lake to
Spokane.
Describing the v.'illey of the ('oliiiiilii;i, .Me( 'h ll.in wrote:
"Through a valley of about .-i mile in bre.idtli. in which not :\ tree is to be seen
and seldom even ,i Imsli, and which is bordered by steep walls of trap, l.iv.i and
sandstone, often .arranged in .a succession of high plateaux or ste))s, the (lee|i blue
water of the Columbia Hows with .a r.apid. |)o\verfiil (airrent. It is tiie only lifelike
object in the desert. The eh.aractcr of the valley is niiieli the same as far ;is Fort
Okinakane. It occasionally widens out slightly, ag.aiii it is n.irrowed by the moun-
tains pressing in. Sometimes the trail passes over the lower bottom, .at others ele-
vated and extensive terraces, .and in .a few ])l.aees over (l.angeroiis pdinls in the
mountains."
McClellan measured the stre.ani just .almve the nioutb of the W'l iiatehee. (thin
c.alhd the I'isquouse) and found it .'?71 y.anls wide in .'^epleIllher. I'ifliaii miles
fiirtli( r lip it was 329 j'ards wide.
"il will be seen," reported .Stevens, "th.at Iboiiiih ,a very fine ex.aniin.alion h.ad
been made of the eastern slo))!- of the Cascades, no line had been run by Cajjtain
McClell.an to Puget Sound, and I deemed it of the greatest consequence to carry
thro\igh such a line, so tiiat we could speak with positivencss and certainty of the
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 159
grades on the western sides, and the other facts bearing upon the question of rail-
road practicability. Captain McClellan was of opinion that it was possible to
carry such a line through at this season of the year, although he apprehended that
some difficulty might be found from the presence of snow."
Governor Stevens resolved to assemble the whole party in a camp south of the
Spokane river, and "then to arrange parties so as to move to the Sound and the
lower Columbia river in such a way as would give the best additional knowledge of
the country." Chief Garry, having come in with his wheat, was dispatched with a
letter to Lieutenant Donelson relative to the place of rendezvous. Stevens decided
to remain at Colville another day, and to leave October 20 for the concentration
camp, "a valley south of the Spokane river, some ten or twelve miles south of the
Spokane House. This spot," explained Stevens, "is only a short distance off the trail
leading from Walker and Eells' mission to Walla Walla."
When the (lartv moved off the following morning. Trader McDonald presented
the governor with "a keg of cognac to ciieer the hearts of the members of all par-
ties, and obliged us also to take a supply of port wine." On the way to the evening
camp they passed McDonald's grist mill "on Mill river, the only one in the neigh-
borhood." McDonald kept them company, and that night they enjoyed a "glorious
supper of smoking steaks and hot cakes, and the stories added to the relish with
which it was eaten." McDonald was a born raconteur, and as they sat around the
flaring campfire charmed them "with a recital of his thrilling adventures, and
expressed much regret that the exjiected arrival of the Hudson's Bay express from
Canada obliged him to return the next morning."
From Stevens' journal: October 'i^. — We got off early, and at Brown's stopped
to purchase horses, and succeeded in obtaining two, one for McClellan and the
other for myself. McDonald accompanied me some distance further, when, bid-
ding each other adieu, I pushed ahead, and reaching a small stream I found that
AlcClellan's party had taken the left bank, and that the captain, who came up
afterwards with Mr. Stanley, had gone on to join them. We took the right, and
thus avoided a bad crossing in which McClellan's party became involved. We
encamped upon the borders of the stream. Our train is now larger and more
heavily laden than before, in consequence of the increased supplies. Today we
have thirteen packs. At night we killed a cow, ])urchased of Brown, and we
still have an ox in reserve, to be killed when we meet Donelson. I may say here
that two ])ounds of beef and half pound of flour per man is not too much for a
day's allowance.
October 23. — Snow is falling this morning, and it has cleaned our beef ad-
mirably. I received a note from McClellan, just after starting out, saying that in
consequence of yesterday's difficulty with the train he thought that he had better
remain with his ow^l train. He afterwards, at my request, joined me, leaving the
train under the charge of Duncan. W'c journeyed but ten miles, encamping near
where we had seen Antoine's family in going to Colville. The snow ceased falling
about noon, with five inches upon the ground. It is light, and we think it will
disappear in a few days. The Indians inform me that we shall not probably find
it south of the Coeur d'Alene river; and from their statements it would seem that
this river is a dividing line as regards climate.
October 21. — We started this morning with the intention of reaching the
160 SPOKANE AND THl. INLAND I:MIMK1.
appointed place of meeting tonigiit. .McCKll.iii, Mintcr, Osgood, Staidey and my-
self pushed ahead, and at noon we reached the old Chemakane mission, so called
from a spring of that name near by. The mission was occupied by Messrs. Walker
and Eells, but in 181-9, in consiiiiiciici- of the C'ayuse dirticulties, it was abandoned.
These gentlemen labored ardently tor the good of the Indians. Walker was a good
farmer and taught tliem agriculture, and by them his n;ime is now mentioned with
great respect. The house occupied by \\'.ilker is still standing, but that of Eells
has been burned down. The site of the mission is five miles from the Spokane
river, in an extensive open valli y. well watered and very rich. Here we met Garry
and some 200 Spokanes. G.irry li.i^ forwarded the letter to Donelson, but had
received no intelligence of his .irriv.il in the Coeur d'Alene ])l.iin. We therefore
concluded to encamp here, and tomorrow .McC'lellan and myself are to accompany
Garry to the S])okane House. The route by Walker .lud Eells' mission to Colville
united with that taken by us twelve or fourteen uiiles from tiu- niissicui. It is a
better route, affording good grazing diiring the whole distance. The Colville or
Slawntehus and Chemakane valleys have ))ro(luctive soil, and .-ire from one to three
miles wide, and bordered by low hills, covered with l.ireh. ])iiic and spruce, having
aisd a ])roductive soil, wliich gradually become broken and lower towards the south.
In till evening the Indians clustered around our tire, .and manifested much pleasure
in our treatment of them. Ciibbs was indefatigable in collecting information in
regard to these Indians. I have now seen a great deal of Garry and am much
■pleased with him. Beneath a quiet exterior he shows himself to be a man of judg-
ment, forecast and great reliability, .uid I could see in uiy interview with his band
the ascendency he possesses over them. Ne.ir the mission lives Solomon Pelter, a
settler, who. by Garry's permission, has t.iken up his abode in this valley. I told
Palter, in reply to his request to be permitted to remain here, th.it though I h.id no
pii«( r ti) .uitlinrizi liiin. yet I could see no objection to his so doing; that I looked
with favor ujioii it. and n(|Uested him to have an eye to the interests of the
Indians.
"I should h;ive mentioned, in its jjroper ))laee, th.nt in Colville valley there is a
line of settlements twenty-eight miles long. The settlers are persons formerly con-
nected with the Hudson's Hay com])any, and they are anxious to become n.aturalized,
.111(1 liiM till lands they now occu])v transferred to themselves. I informed them
lh.it I could only express m_v hopes that their case would be met by the passage of
a special act. They are extensive farmers and raise a great deal of wheat."
Governor Stevens and Captain McClellan, guided by Chief (iarry, went on to
Spokane House the following morning. G.-irry's family they found occu))ying a
comfortable lodge, arul Ciarry informed lluiii that he .ilways li.id on hand flour,
sugar and coffee, with which In- could make his friends comfort.ible. "We then
went to our new cam)) south of the Spokane, which h.ul been est.-ibtislicd while we
were visiting Garry's jilace. From the Chein.iUiiir inissiiin the Ir.iiii lilt the river,
and jxissing through .i rolling country emered with open pine woods, in five miles
reached the Spokane, and crossing it liy a good aMil winding ford, ascended the
pl.iin, .111(1 ill six miles, the first two of which w.is through opi n jiine, reached Camp
Washington."
To Secrctarv \\ . II. (iilstr.i)) ol llu .Slati I listoric.il society I .iiii iiuleliled for
interesting det.ails ng.-irding the location, .ifter ;i l;ii)se of fifty years, of the site of
SPOKANE AXD THE INLAND EMPIRE 161
Camp Washington. A distant relative of tlie secretary, Owen B. Cnlstrap. informed
him that in plowing he had unearthed an old musket, a rusted sword and other
warlike implements, and expressed a belief that his homestead, near Four Mound
prairie, had been the scene of an Indian battle. Secretary Gilstrap replied that
while the find was a most interesting one, it could hardly mark a battleground,
for the site lay north of Wright's line of fighting in the war of 1858. and history
afforded no evidence of any other engagement between whites and Indians in that
vicinity.
Secretary Gilstrap surmised that the relics might have connection with Gov-
ernor Stevens' movements in this section, and a rereading of the official reports
seemed to confirm his belief. He discovered in the governor's reports a detailed
description of his operations in the Spokane country in 1853. and learned that
the party, after leaving the Spokane House, at the junction of the Spokane and
Little Spokane rivers, had traveled six miles and halted at a spot which afforded
good grass and water. The old route was followed, and at a distance of six
miles a glade was found in the pine woods; in it a spring which formed a little
lake of two acres, and surrounded by a small meadow. No other spot in the
vicinity met the description, but Mr. Gilstrap, in the true spirit of historical re-
search, was careful not to jump at a conclusion, and induced "Curly Jim," an aged
Spokane who was a youth when Stevens entered this country, to accompany him
to the scene. The aged Indian retained a keen recollection of the incidents de-
scribed by Stevens, and pointed out the exact site of historic Camp Washington.
"I believe the people of Spokane county can justly make the claim that within
their borders was consummated the organization of the new commonwealth," said Mr.
Gilstrap in a recent conversation with the author; "and in a sense
this historic site of Camp Washington was the first capital of the territory.
For here Governor Stevens relinquislied his duties as explorer and searcher out
of routes for future railroads, and entered upon his duties under the president's
commission as governor. "
Mr. Gilstrap has also an interesting explanation of the origin of the name "Four
Mound. ' At a point not distant from Stevens' camp four large natural stone monu-
ments stand out against the surrounding landscape, and on the largest of these Indian
hands erected nearly a century ago four cairns of broken rock. These remain today.
Aged Indians preserve a tradition that Camp Washington was a rendezvous for
trappers and traders prior to the coming of Governor Stevens. From time imme-
morial the i)lace had been a natural gathering place by reason of the advantages
which ]irompted Stevens to choose it for his camp^ — its abundance of grass and
water: and while it was six miles distant from the trading post at Spokane House,
it appears that the traders frequently transported a part of their wares there
and exchanged them for furs brought in by Indian hunters. Even today the old
Indian trails, worn deep in places by the passing of many feet, are still in evi-
dence, having survived the winter snows and sunuuer rains of more than half a
ccnturv.
^^■l^en Go\ernor Stevens entered the new territory of Washington, the Hudson's
Bav comjjany still maintained trading posts at Colville, Walla Walla, Vancouver
and Steilacooni. near Tacoma, but its oldtime autocratic sway was tottering to a
fall. It still asserted extensive though ill defined rights, and its officers were most
Vol. ,1-11
162 SPOKANE AM) IIIK INLAND EMPIRE
anxious to cultivate the friendship and good will of the first governor. With far-
seeing political vision, Stevens anticipated the seductive influences that would be
extended towards himself and other members of the expedition, and in Iiis instruc-
tions to Captain MeC'lellan and others was explicit and emphatic:
"I am exceedingly desirous (he wrote) that no exertion should be spared to have
means of our own for our expedition, and shall much prefer to be in condition to
extend aid than to be obliged to receive aid from others. Whilst we will gratefully
receive aid from the company in case of necessity, let it be our determination to
have within ourselves the means of the most complete efficacy. I am more and more
convinced that in our operations we should be self-dependent, and whilst we ex-
change courtesies and hospitalities with the Hudson's Bay couiiJany, the people
and the Indians of the Territory should see that we have all the cleinents of success
in our hands. The Indians must look to us for protection and counsel. They must
see that we are their true friends, and be taught not to look, as they have been
accustomed to, to the Hudson's Bay company. I am so impressed with this fact
that I wish no Indian presents to be procured from British posts. I am determined,
in my intercourse with the Indians, to break up the ascendency of the Hudson's
Bay company, and permit no authority or sanction to come between the Indians
and the officers of this government."
For five days the expedition remained in C'ani)) Washington, making arrange-
ments to move westward. Lieutenant Donelson came in with his detachment on
the 28th, "and soon we all sat down to a fine supper prepared for the occasion,"
wrote Governor Stevens. "All the members of the exj)edition were in fine s[)irits;
our table was spread under a canopy, and u|)on it a great variety of dishes ap-
peared — roasted beef, bouilli, steaks, and .ibund.-inee of hot bread, eofiee, sugar, and
our friend -McDonald's good cheer." Probably so great a feast had not been sjjread
in the country since the regale days of forty years agone, when trader, trapper and
voi/ac/eur cheered their hearts with creature comforts on some great feast day of
the church of Rome.
"But the best dish," adds Stevens, "was a beef's head cooked by friend M inter
in Texas fashion. It was jilaced in a hole in the ground, on a layer of hot stones,
with moss and leaves around it to protect it from tlie dirt, and tlien covered up.
There it remained for some five or six hours, when removing it from thi pl.ier wlirre
it was deposited, the skin came off without difficulty, and it prcsmti d a m r\- t< iript-
ingdish, and was enjoyed by every member of the j)arty."
The (|uestion now confronting Governor Stevens was, were tiu animals in (it
condition for severe work in the Cascade mountains? He was deejjly concerned
with the importance of running a survey tlirough the Snoqualmie pass (Sno-cjual-
moo he wrote it in his reports), but "was unwilling, after so much labor aiul fatigue,
to assign the gentlemen to duty, when they did not have eonfidi iiee in their ni<ans,
imless it was a case of im))erative necessity. "
Accordingly he resolved to leave the matter to their judgnunt. ami whih both
McClellan and Donelson "were ready cheerfully to conform to ,inv direction, they
did not desire to go upon the duty; .md accordingly, somewhat reluetanllv, I deter-
niini-d to srnd llic whole Jiarty to the Walla Walla, thence to 'I'iir Dalles and \'an-
eouvi r, and tin nee to Olympia, making carefully a survey of the eouutrv on the route.
"I will here observe," says Stevens in mild criticism, "that all the gentlemen
I ALLS 111' Sl'dKAXK AS SKKT( 'il Kl I HV AN AKTIST Wl'l'll
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ll'I'Ll; Sl'OKAXK FALLS. Issl
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SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 163
were too much influenced in their judgment bj' the belief that snows would fall
early and deep in the Sno-qual-moo pass, and on the route from the Coeur d'Alene,
under the base of the Bitter Root, to the Walla Walla. The little fall of snow
which I have mentioned — although in snow countries it is simply an incident of the
fall, having nothing to do with betokening the approach of winter, but rather indi-
cating, if anything, a late winter — had not been appreciated, and was thought to
indicate that winter was already upon us. The necessary instructions were sent
accordingly. I sent word by an Indian expressman to Lieutenant Arnold at Col-
ville, informing Iiim of tlie arrangements, and also letters to Lieutenant Mullan
and Mr. Tinkham, at Fort Owen; for I was now satisfied, from what I had gath-
ered upon the route, that ;\Ir. Tinkham would find great difficulty in moving over
the southern Nez Perce trail to Fort Walla Walla in December. The fall of snow
varies exceedingly at short distances apart on the Bitter Root mountains, as I then
had reason to believe, and as was afterwards demonstrated. I still desired that
Lieutenant Donelson should go up the Coeur d'Alene, although all' the other parties
went on the direct route, but he did not desire to do this. And I will again observe,
that had I possessed at Camp Washington information which I gained in six days
afterwards at Walla Walla, I shovild have jiushed the part)' over the Cascades in
the present condition of the animals ; but Captain McClellan was entitled to weight
in his judgment of tlie route, it being upon the special field of his examination."
Leaving Camp Washington, the expedition traveled in a southerly direction
'Iirough the Palouse country. They came, on the second day, to a chain of small
akes, abounding in wild fowl. "We saw in one of these lakes," wrote Stevens,
■'surrounded by ducks and geese, a pair of white swans, which remained to challenge
our admiration after their companions had been frightened away bj* our approach. '
"Garry assures us," added the governor, "that there is a remarkable lake called
En-ehush-chesh-she-luxum, or Never Freezing Water, about thirty miles to the east
of this place. It is much larger than any of the lakes just mentioned, and so com-
pletel.v surrounded by high and precipitous rocks that it is impossible to descend
to the water. It is said never to freeze, even in the most severe winters. The In-
( ians believe that it is inhabited by buffalo, elk, deer and all other kinds of game,
which the}' say may be seen in the clear, transparent element."
Ciarry also narrated a superstition respecting a point of painted rock in
Pend d'Oreille lake, near a place then occupied by Michael Ogden. He assured
Governor Stevens that the Indians never dared to venture by the mystic point,
j'.-prehending that such act of sacrilege, as related in their legends, would be re-
sented by the Great Spirit, who would cause a terrific commotion in the waters and
cause them to be swallowed up in frightful waves. The painted rocks were said to
be very high, and to "contain effigies of men and beasts, and other characters, made,
as tile Indians believe, by a race of men who preceded them as inhabitants of the
land." Similar painted rocks exist at the upper end of lake Chelan.
On the afternoon of November 1 the expedition arrived at the junction of the
Palouse and the Snake, and crossing Snake river, pitched camp on its southern
bank. Chief Wi-ti-my-hoy-she, of a band of Palouse Indians encamped near the
mouth of the Palouse, exhibited a medal of Thomas Jefferson, dated 1801, given to
his grandfather, he said, by Captains Lewis and Clark when they passed througii
tb- country in 1805.
164 Sl'OkANK AM) 1111. IM.AMJ EMl'IUE
Governor Stevens was uiwible to visit the falls of the Palouse, but inserted in
his official report, the following description, supplied him by Stanley, the artist,
who had seen them in 18i7:
"Tlic Palouse river (Stevens spelled it Peluse) flows over three steppes, each of
which is estimated to have an ascent of a thousand feet. The falls descend from
the middle of the lower of these steppes. There is no timber along the course of
this stream, and but few willow or otiur l)ushes ; yet the soil is fertile and the grass
nutritious and abundant even in winter. Tin- fall of water, which is about thirty
feet wide, can not be seen from any dist.uil ))()int. for flowing through a fissure in
the basaltic rocks, portions of which tower above in jagged pinnacles, it suddenly
descends some 1'2;) feet into a narrow basin, and thence flows rapidly away through
a deep canyon. The distance from tiie falls to Snake river is about nine miles.
The valley widens considerably for about half a mile from the mouth of the Palouse.
The home of the Palouse Indians is near this junction, where they devote much of
their time to salmon fishing. The salmon ascend to the falls, but these Indians
have a legend which tells of the wickedness of the Indians higher up the country,
and how the Great Spirit, in his displeasure, placed the falls as a barrier to the
further ascent of the salmon."
Prom tlic crossing of Snake river the governor pushed rapidly to old Fort Walla
Walla, on the Columbia. The country between the .Snaki- and Walla Walla rivers
he described as "high rolling prairies. On the road I traveled," he added, "the
grass was uniformlv good, but on leaving tiie .Snake the first water was the Touehet,
twenty-seven and one half miles distant. Tliis was the longest march we had
accomplished without water after leaving I'orl Mciiton, ])erh,i])s the longest between
the Mississippi and the Columbia. C.ipt.iin .MeClellan, by a slight change of direc-
tion, striking the Touehet liigher up, and crossing the \\'alla. Walla valley b_v a more
central line, found good water and camps at less than twenty miles apart."
At Fort Walla Walla the governor was the guest of Factor Pembrum of the
Hudson's Bav company. He remained in the Walla Walla country till November
8, and on the fourth and fifth rode through the valley.
November 4. — We started on the tri)) through this valley, riding upon our
horses. Arriving at the Hudson B.iy f.-irm, we exchanged them for fresh ones, send-
ing back to W.illa Walla (on the Columbia) the old ones by an Indian. This farm
is eighteen miles from Wall.i Walla, and is a fine tract of land, well adapted to
grazing or cultivation. It is n.itur.illy bounded by streams, and is equivalent to a
mile square. 'rinT<- is tlic rielirst gr.iss we have seen since leaving St. Mary's. Two
herders tend their .inimals, and a sm.all house is erected for their accommodation.
From this we went to McBane's house, a retired f.ietor of the eom]).iny. from wlienec
we had a fine view of the southern portion of the valKy. wliieli is w.itered by iii.iny
tribut.irii s from Ihe Blue mount.iins. 'I'lii land here is very fertile. .MeB.inc
was in eli.irgc of I'ort \\'.ill.i W.ill.i during the Cayuse difficulties. Thirty miles
from W.ill.i W.ill.i. .111(1 111 .ir MeH.ine's, lives Father Chirouse, a missionary of tin
Catholic order, who, with two laymen, e.\ercises his iiiHuenee among the surrounding
tribes. .\ p.irty of immigrants, who had lost nearly all their animals, are shel-
tered here .it lliis time. From Chirouse and McBane I learned th.it the immigrants
frer|uently e.-ist wishful eyes upon the villry. but li.ning ni.-idc no ;irr;ingenients
with the Indi.iiis. thev .are unable to settle there.
SPOKANE AND THK IXLAXl) EMPIRE 165
November f.. — We remained with Mr. McBaiie over night, and returned to the
fort by way of the Whitman mission, now oecupied by Bumford and Brooke. They
were harvesting, and I saw as fine potatoes as ever I beheld— many weighing two
pounds, and one weighing five and a half. Their carrots and beets, too, were of
extraordinary size. Mr. Whitman must have done a great deal of good for the
Indians. His mission is situated upon a fine tract of land, and he had erected a
saw and grist mill. It is said that his death was brought about by the false reports
of a troublesome half-breed, wlio reported having heard Mrs. Whitman say to her
husband, wlien speaking of the Indians: "We will get rid of them some day."
From Bumford's to the mouth of the Touchet are many farms, mostly occupied by
the retired em])loyes of the Hudson's Bay company. On our return we met Pu-pu-
mox-mox. the ^Valla Walla eliief, known and respected far and wide. He possesses
not so much intelligence and energy as Garry, but he has some gifts of which the
latter is deprived. He is of dignified manner and well qualified to manage men.
He owns over '2,000 horses, besides many cattle, and has a farm near that of the
Hudson's Bav company. On the occurrence of the Cayuse war he was invited to
join them, but steadily refused. After their destruction of the mission he was asked
to share the s])oils, and again refused. They then taunted him with being afraid of
tl)e whites, to which he re])lied: "I am not afraid of the whites, nor am I afraid
of the Cavuse. I defy your whole band. I will plant my three lodges on the border
of niv own territory, at tlie mouth of the Touchet, and there I will meet you if you
dare to attack me." He accordingly moved his lodges to this point and remained
there three or four weeks. Stanley (the artist) was on his way from Walker and
Eells' mission to \A'hitman's mission, and, indeed, was actually witliin tlirec miles
of the mission wlien he learned of the terrible tragedy which had been enacted
there, and the information was brought to him by an Indian of Pu-Pu-mox-mox's
band. Pu-])U-mox-mox has saved up a large amount of money (probably as much as
$.).000). still he is generous, and frequently gives an ox and other articles of value
to his neighliors. Some of liis people having made a contract to ferry the immi-
grants across the river who crossed the Cascades this year, and then h.iving refused
to execute it, he compelled them to carry it out faithfully, and. mounting his horse,
he thrashed tliem until they complied. He has the air of a substantial farmer.
From the Walla Walla valley Governor Stevens continued down the Columbia
in a canoe, carefully examining the prinei))al ra|)ids lietween the moutii of the \A'ana
Walla and the Cascades, and from tlie best examination which he w,is able to make,
"became at once convinced that the river was probably navigable for steamers, or
at all events worthy of being experimentally tested."
The night of Novemlier 11. he passed at the Cascades, meeting there "several
gentlemen — men who had crossed the plains, and who liad made farms in several
states and in Oregon or Washington — who h.id carefully examined the Yakima coun-
try for new locations, and who impressed me witli the importance of it as an
agricultural and grazing country." The new governor's faith, sympathy and even
affection for the pioneers stand out in clear expression in his official reports and
private correspondence. Of them he said in one of his reports:
"They have crossed the mountains, and made tlie long distance from the valley
of the Mississippi to their homes on the Pacific; they Iiave done so fre(:]uentlv, hav-
ing to cut out roads as tliey went, and knowing little of the difficulties before them.
16f) SPOK.WF. AM) I'fli: IN'I.AVI) I-.MPIRE
Tlicv are therefore men of observation, of experience, of enterprise, and men who
at liome liatl, by industry and frugality, secured a competence and the respect of
their neighbors; for it must l)e known tliat our immigrants travel in parties, and
those go together wiio were acquaintances at home, because they mutually confide in
each other. I w.is struck with the high qualities of the frontier people, and soon
learned how to confide in them and g.itiier information from them."
As an example in eoiitr.ist. we otter an extract from a letter from Captain George
B. ]^IcClellan to Secretary of War Jett"erson Davis, of date September 18, 1853:
"But the result of my short experience in this country has been that not the
slightest faitji or confidence is to be placed in information derived from the inhabi-
tants of the territory; in every instance when I have acted upon information thus
obtained, I have been altogether deceived and misled."
I'roni tlie Cascades Governor Stevens continued his canoe vovage to Vancouver,
where he remained from the seventeenth to the nineteenth as the guest of Captain
Bonneville, made famous by the genius of \\'asliington Irving, and where he also
lueaine ae(inainted with tin- officers of tlic Iliulson'.s B;iy conq)any.
CHAPTER XVIII
OLYMPIA, THE BACKWOODS CAPITAL, IX 1853.
FIVE days' hard travel FROM VANCOUVER GOVERNOR DRENCHED IN AN INDIAN
CANOE HEARTY PIONEER GREETING MRS. STEVENs' GRAPHIC PICTURE OF THE
SQUALID LITTLE CAPITAL "WHAT A PROSPECT !" SHE BREAKS DOWN AND CRIES
LATER LEARNED TO LOVE THE COUNTRY AND ITS PEOPLE HORSEBACK ACROSS THE
LOVELY PRAIRIES PLEASING PICTURE OF FATHER RICARd's MISSION COLUMBIA
LANCASTER ELECTED TO CONGRESS BUSY DAYS FOR THE GOVERNOR MENACED BY
POLITICAL RUIN PEREMPTORY ORDER FROM JEFFERSON DAVIS STEVENS GOES BY
SEA TO NATIONAL CAPITAL HIS ENEMIES ROUTED.
"Not stones, nor wood, nor the art of artisans make a state; but where men are
who know how to take care of themselves, there are cities and walls."
— Attributed to Alcaeus by Aristides.
FIVE days of the liardest sort of travel it took the first governor of Washing-
ton to go from Vancouver to Olympia, cramped up for the greater part of the
time in an Indian 'canoe, and drenched by the cold November rains; but
Stevens facetiously dismisses the incident by "advising voyageurs in the interior,
when they get suddenly into the rains west of the Cascades, to take off their buck-
skin underclothing." He neglected the precaution, "and among the many agree-
abilities of this trip up the Cowlitz was to have the underclothing of buckskin wet
entirely through." And buckskin possesses a strong retentive affinity for moisture.
But a warm and hearty pioneer greeting awaited him at Olympia, and when, a
few days later, lie delivered a lecture descriptive of his long overland journey and
the feasibility of building a railroad from St. Paul to Puget Sound, the whole town
turned out and greeted enthusiastically his confident predictions that they would live
to Iiear the locomotive's whistle echoing amid the wooded hills of that primeval wil-
derness.
Looking backward over the vista of sixty years, one marvels that congress pos-
sessed the prescience then to found an embryo commonwealth in this remote and
sparsely settled region. There were fewer than 5,000 inhabitants in all the terri-
tory's wide expanse, from the Pacific to the summits of the Rocky mountains.
Olympia, the capital, was a dreary, rain-drenched mudhole, and the future cities of
Spokane, Seattle, Tacoma, Walla Walla and Yakima had either no existence on the
map, or were, at best, a few shacks and cabins hastily thrown up against the win-
ter's rains and snows. Mrs. Stevens, who came to Olympia two years after, and,
167
168 Sl'OK.WI, WD llil. IM.WI) I.MI'IIJK
who, as wife of tin- governor was the soeial hrader of her hushand's vast political do-
main, lias recorded graphically her imjiressions of the squalid little capital :
"At night we were told, on ascending a hill, 'There is Olympia!' Below us, in
the deep mud, were a few low, wooden houses, at the head of Puget Sound. Mv lieart
sank, for tlie first time in my life, at the ))ros])ect. After ploughing througli the
mud, we stopped at the principal hotel, to stay until our jiouse was ready for us.
As we went ujistairs there were a nunilier of people standing about to see the gover-
nor and liis family. I was very much annoyed at their staring and their remarks,
which tiny made .uKlilily. .iimI ll,■l^t(•lllci to get in some private room, where I could
make myself better ])re])art(l lor an inspection. Being out in rains for many days
had not imjiroved our a))|)iarMiiir nr clothes. But tiiere seemed no rest for tlie
weary. L pon being uslured into the public parlor, I found people from far and
near had been invited to inspect us. The room was full. The sick child was cross
and took no notice of anything that was said to her. One of the women saying aloud,
'What a cross brat tb.it is,' I could stand it no longer, but opened a door and went
into a large dancing ball, and soon after, when the governor came to look me up, I
was breaking my licart over the forlorn situation I found myself in — cold, wet, un-
comfortable, no fire, shaking with chills. What a prospect!"
But the mistress of the cai)ital soon found fire, and more cheering and refined
greetings, and quickly learned to catch her husband's brave and sympathetic spirit.
Many of the people called on her, and sbi foiiiul them pleasant and agreeable. "Many
of tlieni wi re well educated and interesting young ladies, who had come here with
their busbaiidH. gcniriinient officials, and who liad given up their city homes to live
in this unknown land, surrounded by Indians and dense forests."
Mrs. Stevens dwelt there for three years, and learned to love the country round-
al)out. "There was a pleasant company of officers, with their wives, stationed
at Steilacoom, twenty miles from Olympia, with whom I became acquainted, and had
visits from and visited. Naval shii)s came uj) Puget .SoiJnd, with agreeable officers
on board. I had a horse to ride on horseback across the lovely prairies.
.\bont two miles down there was a Catholic mission, a large dark house or monastery,
surrounded by cultivated land, a large garden in front filled with flowers, bordered
on one side, next the water, with innnense bushes of wall flowers in full bloom; the
fragrance, resembling the sweet English violet, filling the air with its delicious odor.
l''atber Ric;ird, the v( n. r.iblr lirail ol this house, was from Paris. He had lived in
this ))l;iec more thin l«i iity yi irs. He had with him b'ather Blanchet (later of be-
loved mriiKiry in our own iiil.ind region), a sliorl. thieksct man. who managed every-
thing pertaining to the teni))oral comfort of tlie mission. Under him were servants,
who were employed in various ways, baking, cooking, digging and planting. Their
fruit was excellent and a great rarity, as there was but one more orchard in the
wlioli country. Tlim was a large number of Flatheads settled about them, who
had bren taugiit to count their beads, say i)rayers, and were good Catholics in all
outward observances; chanted the morning and evening prayers, which thev sang in
their own language in a low. sweet strain, wbieli, the first time I heard it, sitting in
my boat at siniset, was impressive and solemn. We Avent often to visit Father Ricard,
who was ,1 highly educated man. who set nied to in joy having some one to converse
with him in his own language. He said the Canadians used siuli liid I'niub."
A ])roclaniation by the governor, jiublished soon after his ,irri\.il it Olxnipia in
SPOKANE AND THE IXLAND EMPIRE 169
November, 18.J3, designated January 30 as election day to choose a delegate to con-
gress, and members of the legislature, and summoning that body to meet in the
capital on the twenty-eighth of February. Columbia Lancaster, a lawyer, was
elected delegate, and the legislature liaving assembled on the appointed day. Gover-
nor Stevens, in his first message, recommended the adoption of a code of laws and
organization of the country east of the Cascades into counties. On his recommen-
dation, the legislature memorialized congress for a surveyor general and a land
office, for more rapid surveys of public lands, for amendment of the land laws so
that single women would have the same footing as married ones, for a grant of lands
for a university, for imi)roved mail service, and for a wagon road from Puget Sound
to Walla Walla.
Busy days were these for the governor, filled with absorbing duties and official
cares. In an Indian canoe he had explored the shores of Puget Sound, and not-
withstanding the congressional appropriation for railroad surveys and exploration
had become exhausted, lie drove forward that important work with his usual intelli-
gence and vigor, and thereby incurred grave peril of political ruin. To provide the
necessary funds for the immediate and pressing needs of the survey, he drew on
Corcoran & Riggs, government bankers at Washington, for .$16,000, and these drafts
were dishonored. Jefferson Davis, secretary of war, was in deep sympathy with the
pro-slavery party in congress, which neglected no intrigue to discourage and prevent
the building of a northern line of railroad.
About that time the political situation was explained to Stevens in a letter from
his old friend Halleck, then stationed in California. "The pro-slavery extension
party," pointed out Halleck, "will work very hard against the North Pacific states,
which must of necessity remain free." Halleck added that a vigorous conspiracy
was then fomenting in California. "The first branch of this project was to call a
new convention in California, dividing it into two states, making the southern one
a slave state, with San Diego as the port and terminus of a railroad through Texas.
Circulars and letters to that effect were sent to pro-slavery men in California, and
the attempt made to divide the state, but it failed. The next move was to acquire
Tower California and parts of Sonora and Chihuahua, making Guaymas the termi-
nus, and the newly acquired territory slave states. ... If the territory is ac-
quired, it will be a slave territory, and a most tremendous effort will be made to run
a railroad, if not the railroad, from Texas to Ciuaymas, with a br.-iiich to .San
Francisco."
Corroborative of these warnings, the governor received a eurt and peremptory
order from Secretary Davis, disajiproving his arrangements and ordering him to
suspend his winter operations. This critical situation he met with a quick resolu-
tion to hasten to the national capital and thwart the cunning schemes of southern
politicians, and to justify his apparent desertion of territorial duties, the legislature
readily passed a joint resolution that "no disadvantage would result to the terri-
tory should the governor visit Washington, if, in his judgment, the interests of the
Northern Pacific Railroad survey could thereby be jjromoted."
Leaving Olympia March '26, the governor went by way of the Cowlitz river to
the Columbia, and took steamer for San Francisco, arriving there early in
April. Taking the isthmus route, he was in New York in May, and proceeding
promptly to Washington, presented before the department a report so thorough and
170 Sl'OKANK AM) THK INT.AND KMPTRF,
coiuiiuiii'i; that Secretary Davis was moved to submit to congress an estimate to
cover tlu- deficiency. TIic necessary appropriation was made, and the protested
drafts honored. Of this incident CJener.il limit afterwards wrote:
"I followed him in the thorougli work he made of the Northern Pacific Railway
survey — of his row with Jeff Davis for overrunninp: in his expenditures the amount
assiijned liim, and so j>reventing Jeff's designs of defeating that road. In 185t I
had, at Fort Monroe, occasion to describe your father to old Major Holmes, a class-
mate of Jeff. He went to Washington, and on his return told me, 'Your friend
Stevens is ruined. Davis refuses to reeomniend to congress to make good the ex-
pi-nditiires as contrary to orders. It will niiii Stevens.' 'Wait awhile,' said I; 'I
see by the last Union that Stevens lias just arrived, en route to Washington, at
Panama. He will leave .lert' nowhere.' Soon after he arrived in Washington, was
fdllowid by an ajipropriatioii covering all liis liills. and so ,Ieff failed all round."
CHAPTER XIX
NEGOTIATING TREATIES WITH THE INTERIOR TRIBES
STEVENS PLUNGES INTO AN ARDUOUS TASK WALLA WALLA A GREAT COUNCIL GROUND
GOVERNOR MEETS THERE 5,000 INDIANS IN 1855 NEZ PERCES MASS A THOUSAND
WARRIORS A STRIKING PAGEANT HAUGHTy MESSAGE FROM THE YELLOW SERPENT
KAMIAKEN PROUD AND SCORNFUL FEASTING, HORSE-RACING AND FOOT-RACING
INDIAN ORATORY AND SARCASM CHIEF LAWYER EXPOSES A PLOT TO MASSACRE THE
governor's PARTY CONSPIRACY IS THWARTED THE TREATIES EXPLAINED A
STARTLING INCIDENT STORMY COUNCIL TREATIES CONCLUDED CELEBRATED WITH
A SCALP DANCE.
"The passions are the only orators that always persuade; they are, as it were, a
natural art, tlie rules of which are infallible; and the simplest man with passion is
more jjersuasive than the most eloquent without it."
— La Rochefoucauld.
CONGRESS had enacted tlie donation land act, which held out to settlers
the enticing offer of 320 acres to a single man, 320 acres each to married
man and wife, who would cross the plains and mountains and found homes in
Oregon. No serious attempt had been made to establish treaty rights with the
possessing Indians, who, finding themselves ignored and their property rights dis-
regarded, and noting the swelling stream of white immigration, grew startled,
suspicious, alarmed and restless. This native discontent was fast deepening into
indignation and anger, and tiiroughout the interior bolder spirits were advocating
a widespread uprising and war of extermination before it should become forever
too late to roll back the white invaders.
To face and solve this difficult (jroblem, to allay the Indians' grievance and
patch up tardy treaties with the tribes both east and west of the Cascade moun-
tains, was the delicate and difficult duty laid by government upon tlie governor of
the young territory of Washington. Returning from the national capital, Stevens
promjjtly plunged into this arduous undertaking, and having first established trea-
ties with the Indians in the Puget Sound country, we find him, in the early months
of 1855, inviting two great councils with tlie tribes between the Cascade and the
Rocky mountains.
Indian Agents A. J. Bolon and R. H. Lansdale were sent that spring among
the powerful tribes of the Inland Emj)ire, to point out to the chiefs the advan-
tages that would accrue to their people by entering peaceably into just and liberal
171
172 SPOKANK AM) 'I'lll, IMAM) I.MIMRE
treaty relations witli the {roveriiinent. and on tin- siijjgcstion of Kaniiaktn. liead
chief of the Yakinias. the Walla Walla valley was selected for the council ground.
"There of old," said Kaniiak<ii. "is the jjlace where we held our councils with
the neighboring tribes, .iiid uc will hold this loiiruil tlnrc now."
Preparatory to the assembling ot tin tribes, a large quantity of merchandise
.111(1 |iri)\ isi()n~ was t.aken up the Columbia in keelbo.ats to A\'alla M'.alla. and a
jjarty of twenty-five men was organized at The Dalles, in eastern Oregon, and with
])aektrain, mules, riding .-ininials and provisions, sent to the council ground to pre-
])are for the coming of tlu n (inn ii. .iiid afterw.ards to .leeoinijany Governor Stevens
to the scene of ;iiu)tli(r great eoiiiicil. to be Inld in ar tin site of the ])ri-S(iit city of
Missoula, ^lontan.i.
"The Walla W;ill.i coiiin-il. like tin- IMackfoot." s.iys llaz.ird .Stevens, "was
conceived and |il;uiin(l exclusively by Governor .Stevens. He alone impressed
the necessity ot tlniii upon the government, and obtained the requisite authority.
Tlu work oi collecting the Indians w.-is- done cbietly by his agents, and it was not
until he learned from Doty that the liidi.iiis had agreed to attend, and that the
eomieil was assured, that be invited Superiiitendeiit Palmer (of Oregon) to take
part ill it .-IS joint eoininissidner with liiniMlf for sucli tribes as lived p.artly in
both tei-rit(ii'ies. Tbis t.-iet be e;uised to be entered on tbe joint reeiinl of the
council.'
Leaving the governor's olliee in charge of .Seerel.ary of .State M.ison. (Icuernor
Stevens set out from Olyuipia e.irly in May for the W.illa Walla valley. The
route taken by bis jiarly lay across eouiitry to Cowlitz landing, where canoes were
taken down tlu ( (iwlitz to tbe Columbia: tlnne. by steamboat to Vancouver, and
tlieiiee by steamboats and portage to The Dalles, where tbe I'nited .States inain-
t.iined a military post of two eomijanies of the I'oiirtb infantry, under .Major
C;. .(. R.ains, and where .Snp( riiili ikK lit .loel Pabin r of lln Oregon agencies awaited
liis coming.
"The outlook for etfeeting a treaty w;is deemed uii favorable by .all. " says Hazard
Stevens, "(jovernor .Stevens w.is warned by I'atlnr i{ieard. of the Y.akim.i mis-
sion, th/it the Indians were plnlling to cut olV tbe while ebiefs who might ;ittem])t
to hold .1 council. The .Snake Indians bad att.aeked and massacred jiarties of
while innnigrants recently, and Major liaiiis w.is under orders to send a force
on the immigrant road to protect them. '
Hut the governor was determined to c.-irry out I be ai-raiigi-meiits, for be fore-
saw that retreat .it lliis critical nionient. after the eiiuiieil bad been agreed ii|)on.
tile Indians iiuitfil to the rendezvous, and gifts .assembled on the ground, would
involve a fatal show of weakness and in all jjrobability prove the very me.iiis to
precipitate the threatened uprising. After su])per he discussed the sitii.-ition for
two hours with Major Rains, and )H-rsuaded that officer to give him a small detach-
ment of forty soldiers. "I rem.arked." be wrote in his diary, "that the services
of a sni.ill force in checking insolence wciiild be as good as 200 men siibsetiuently.
We deemed it necessary to maintain our dignity and th.it of our government at
the council, and we would seize any i)erson. whether white man or Indian, who
behaveil in an improper maiiin r. There were uii(|iiesti(mably .i great many mal-
contents in each tribe. \ few determined sjiirits. if not controlled, might embolden
,all not well disposed, and defeat the negoli.alioiis. Should tbis sjiirit be shown.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 173
tney iiiust he seized ; the well affected would then govern in the deliberations, and
I anticipated little or no difficulty in negotiating. I then alluded to my determina-
tion to call out the militia of the territory .should I find, on reaching the council
ground, that am' plan of hostilities was being matured.
"So doubtful did General Palmer consider the whole matter, that it was only
the circumstance of a military force being dispatched which determined him to
send to the treaty ground presents to the Indians. He stated to me that he had
concluded to send up no goods ; but, the escort having been ordered, he would send
up his goods."
History, I believe, will sustain the opinion that in tense dramatic interest, in
wealth of savage staging and barbaric color, and in ultimate influence alike upon
the white man and his red brother, the Walla Walla council stands out in bold
relief, the most important, the most striking historic event in the Inland Empire,
if not within the entire Pacific northwest. Five thousand Indians gathered there —
2,000 warriors sat in council, and the proceedings were enlivened by fierce
native eloquence and haughty flights of bitter irony and biting wit. Tribe found
itself arrayed against tribe, and faction set against faction ; some counseled peace,
some boldly stood for unrelenting war ; and some there were who carried on auda-
ciously their angry plot to sound the dreadful tocsin by massacreing on this council
ground the governor's party and his little soldier escort of forty men.
The council ground lay on the right bank of Mill creek, six miles from the
Whitman mission, and wdthin the present limits of the city of Walla Walla. "The
valley," says the governor's biograpiier, "was almost a perfect level, covered
with the greatest profusion of waving bunch-grass and flowers, amidst which grazed
numerous bands of beautiful, sleek mustangs, and herds of long-horned Spanish
cattle belonging to the Indians, and was intersected every Iialf mile by a clear,
rapid, sparkling stream, whose course could be easily traced in the distance by its
fringe of willows and tall cottonwoods. Now every foot of this rich valley is un-
der cultivation, a dozen grist mills run their wheels by these streams, and the very
treaty ground is the center of the thriving town of Walla W^alla." A city it has
growni since that was jienned. with 20,000 |ieo))le dwelling together in culture,
prosperity and wealth.
Towards evening of yiny 21 came the governor and his party upon the scene,
drenched by the soaking rains tlirough which they had ridden since early morn,
but cheered by the sight of barbaric comfort that met their eager eye. Hazard
Stevens, who, then a boy of 13, rode with his father to the council ground, thus
describes the historic scene:
"The cam]) was found jHtclied. and everything in readiness for the council.
A wall tent, with a large arbor of poles and boughs in front, stood on level, open
ground, a short distance from the creek and facing the Blue mountains, all ready
for the governor. This was al.so to serve as the council chamber, and ample clear
space \vas left for tiie Indians to assemble and seat themselves on the ground in
front of tlie arbor. A little farther in front, and nearer the creek, were ranged
the tents of the rest of the party, a stout log house to safely hold the supplies and
Indian goods, and a large arbor to serve as a banqueting hall for distinguished
chiefs, so that, as in civil lands, gastronomy might aid diplomacy. A large Iierd of
beef cattle and a pile of potatoes, purchased of Messrs. Lloyd Brooke, Bumford &
174 Sl'OKANK AM) TllK IM.AM) I.MI'IHF.
Noble, traders and stock-raisers, who were oeeupyiiig tlie site of the Wliitman
mission, and ample stores of sugar, coffee, bacon and flour, furnished the materials
for the feasts."
Previous to the arrival of the Indians, tin following; |)roi;r,iiii was ,id(>])ti(l :
1. Governor Stevens to jjreside.
2. Each superintendent to be sole commissioner for the Indians within his
jurisdiction.
•J. Botii to act jointlv for tribes coniiaoii lo liolh ()rr}j;on .md Wasliiugton, each
to api)oint an agent and commissary for thiiii. .ind goods and provisions to be
distributed to them in i)roportion to tlie number under the resjiective jurisdictions.
i. Separate records to he kejit, to be carefully compared and certified jonitly
as far as related to tribes of both Territories.
5. To keep a public table for the chiefs.
The following oflieers were appointed for the joint treaties:
Washington: Commissioner, Governor Isaac I. Stevens; secretary, J;imes Doty;
connnissary, R. H. Crosby; agtnt. R. H. Laiisdali-: interpreters, \\"illi.iin Cr.iig and
N. Raymond.
Oregon: Connnissioiur. .loci I'alnur; secretary. Willi.iin C. McKay; com-
missary, N. Olney; agent, R. R. 'rhoiiipsoM ; intcrpntrrs. M.itthiw Danplur .md
.John I'lettc.
As additional intcrprctirs (iovernor .Stevens appointed \. 1). .P.inihrun. .John
Whitford, .James Coxie .-md I'.itriek McKensie.
Lieutenant Gracie and his little command from 'i'lic Dalles arrived on the -^lUl,
and with the lieutenant, as guest, came Lieuttn.int Kip. who was to participate in
the Wright camjiaign in tlie Sliokane country two ye.-irs later ;ind record in enter-
t.'iining style his experiences in .i little book <-allcd ".Vriny Life on tile I'.ieific."
I'"or their comfort the governor li,ul pitched .i tint, while the soldiers threw up
rough shelters of boughs, covered with canvas pack-covers. The two oHieers dined
with the governor, "ott' ;i table constructed from split pine logs." says Kip. "smoothed
olV. hut not very smooth."
Now Jill was ready for the Indian hosts. First c.iine the Ne/. I'erces. men,
women and children, 'J. 500 in all. the great<r part of the trib(>. for the occasion
was deemed one of high inonunt and pcrli.ips of (iKluriiig signifieanee to them
.and their descendants for untold gener.itions. Dear to the Indi.in heart is studied
cercMionial. .ind le;iriiing of the ap|)roaeh of lln' barbaric eavale.ide. the connnis-
siouers drew up llicir little party on .i knoll which eonuiiandcd a line \iiw of
the wirlc .ind flower spangled \;ill(y. Iji lokiri of Nez Perce friendshi)) through-
oul the t'avuse war that followed lln Wliilniaii massacre of 1817. the oHieers in
th.-it campaign had presented tlu' tribe with a large .Vnieriein flag. This tiny bore
aloft in the soft May sunshine. ;ind sent ahead of their .uh aneing hosts to he
Jjlaiited upon the knoll.
"Soon lliiir eaxaleade came in sight." says an observer of this stirring scene,*
"a thous.ind w.irriors mounted on line horses .and riding at a galloj). two .abreast.
n;iked to the hreechclont. their faces colored with white, rid .and yellow )>.iint
in fanciful designs, and ih ckiil with pluim s and feallnrs and trinkets lluttcring
in the sunsliine. The ponies were even more gaudily .irrayed. many of llnm srlntid
• Tlaziinl Stevens.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 175
for their singular color and markings, and many painted in vivid colors contrast-
ing with their natural skins — crimson slashed in broad stripes across white, j'ellow
or white against black or bay; and with their free and wild action, the thin buffalo
line tied around the lower jaw, — the only bridle, almost invisible — the naked riders,
seated as though grown to their backs, presented the very picture of the fabled
centaurs. Halting and forming a long line across the prairie, the}' again advanced
at a gallop still nearer, then halted, while the head chief. Lawyer, and two other
chiefs rode slowly forward to the knoll, dismounted and shook hands with the com-
missioners, and then took post in rear of them. The other chiefs, twenty-five in
number, then rode forward, and went through the same ceremony. Then came
charging on at full gallop in single file the cavalcade of braves, breaking succes-
sively from one flank of the line, firing their guns, brandishing their shields, beat-
ing their drums, and yelling their warwhoojis, and dashed in a wide circle around
the little party on the knoll, now charging up as thougii to overwhelm it, now wheel-
ing back, redoubling their wild action and fierce yells in frenzied excitement. At
length they all dismounted and took their stations in rear of the chiefs. Then
a number of young braves, forming a ring, while others beat their drums, enter-
tained the commissioners witli their dances, after which the Indians remounted and
filed off to the place designated for their camps. This was on a small stream
flowing parallel to Mill creek, on tlie same side with and over half a mile from
the council camp. The chiefs accompanied the governor to his tent and arbor,
smoked the pipe of peace, and had an informal talk."
As the Indians came to the council on invitation of the commissioners, they
were regarded as guests of the government, and rations were issued to the Nez
Perces and some other petty tribes then on the ground — one and a half pounds of
beef, two pounds of jiotatoes, and a half pound of corn to each person.
Ne.xt to arrive were the Cayuses, A\'alla Wallas and Umatillas. Mitliout jjomp
or ])ageantry they encamped on tlie opposite side of Mill creek, at a point more
than a mile removed from the wiiites. An intervening fringe of leaf trees com-
pletely concealed them from view. As head chief of the Walla Wallas and Uma-
tillas, the aged Pu-])U-mox-mox, or Yellow Ser])ent, exerted autocratic sway over
liis own people, and was a personage of marked influence with neighboring tribes.
He was a thrifty soul, and by trade with the innnigrants passing through his do-
mains en route to the Willamette valley, had acquired a large sum in coin. His
lierds ran into the thousands. Notwitlistanding his son had been murdered by
California gold miners, he had always maintained friendly relations with the whites,
altliough the loss of his son still rankled in his breast, and as he had grown some-
wliat childish, malcontents were striving, by frequent reference to that outrage,
to inflame his miiid and induce him to join in a war of extermination.
The day after their arrival, the Nez Perce chiefs and head men, to the luunber
of more than thirty, came over to dine witli the commissioners. Seated upon the
ground, in two long parallel lines, tiiey quite filled the arbor. They brought vora-
cious ajjpetites to tlie banquet, and Governor Stevens and Commissioner Palmer,
wlio had graciously assumed tlie office of carvers, discovered that they had bur-
dened themselves with a strenuous task. At length, their arms wearied by the work
and the pers])iration drojijiing from their faces, they were glad to yield the honors
to two husky packers. "The table for the chiefs was kept up during the council.
17r, SI'OKANK AND TIIK INLAND K.MIMHK
and every day was well attiiKlcil, hut it was not again ffracrd hy tlic presence of
the connnissioiiers."
An envoy trmn l'n-|)ii-iiiii\-i]iii\. the ^'illow Si-r|iiiit. Iirciui;lit lln- haughty and
ominous message that the Vakimas, C'ayuses and Walla Wallas would accept no
Jirovisions from the commissioners; that they would hriiig their own, and it was
their desire that the Young Chief, Lawyer, Kaniiaki n and himself, head chiefs of
the Cayuses, Nez Perces, Yakimas and Walla ^^'allas res))ectively, should do all
the talking for the Indians at the council. Refusing to accept any tohacco for
his ehiif. tiic messenger was overheard to nnitter as he rode disdainfully away,
"You will find out hy and hy why we won't take provisions."
F.ither (iiinnisc of the Catholic mission among the \\'.illa \\. alias. ,ind latlier
I' iiiddsy of tile Yakini.a mission, came in to attend the eouiieii. and reported that
witli the exception of Kamiaken these Indians were generally well disposed towards
the whites. This chief had lieeii heard to s.iy. "Tf Ciovernor .Stevens spe.iks hard,
I will speak h.ard, too."' Other liuli.uis h.ad said th.it K.uni.akrn would come to the
council with his young men. 'hut with |)o\vder and h.ill. ' When invited to the
council hy the governor's seeret.iry. Mr. Doty, he had scornfully rejected the
tendered presents, declaring that he "h.id never accepted anything from the whites,
not even to the value of a grain of wheat, without paying for it, and tii.it he did
not wish to purchase the jiresents." Spe.aking of this noted chief, fiovernor .Stevens
said: "He is a peculiar in.in. niuinding me of the p.'iiither .and the grizzly bear.
His counten.anee has an extr.iordin.ary |)lay, one moment in frowiis, the next in
smiles, flashing with light, .and hl.ick .is Krebus, the same instant. His pantomime
is great, .and his gesticul.it ion much .and expressive. He t.ilks mostly in his face,
and with his hands and arms. "
Rumors ran over the great eneampinnit th.it thisr trilu-s had allied to oppose
a treaty, and fears were ex|)ressed tli.at an .ittempt to open tlii- eouneil would be
the signal for .a w.irlike outbreak.
Tiie next day .a b<)d\- of K)() mounted C.iyuscs ami W alia \\ .ill.is. .iriiied ,ind
in full g.al.a dress. ,iiid yelling like demons, rode furiously tliriee .around the Nez
Perces cam)), and soon thereafter Young Chief, .aeeomp.anied by his principal sub-
chiefs, rode u)) to the governor's tent, but dismounted on invitation with apparent
reluctance, .and shook li.inds with .1 eold .and forbidding demeanor, refused to
smoke, .and remained but a trw moments. "The haughty carri.ige of these chiefs,"
wrote .Stevens in his journ.il. 'and their manly cliar.aeter h.ave. for the first time, in
mv Indian experience, realizid the descriptions of the writers of fiction."
Ill III Chief Garry of the .S))ok.anes attended the eouneil. but only as an ob-
sei'\rr. It li.ad been found impossible to .assemble the Spokanes at .a ))oint so dis-
tant fniiii Ihiir tiiuntr\-. within the brirt' time that offered, .and (iovernor .Stevens
pro))osed a sep.arate treaty with them. Later on bis return from the Missouri.
A messenger sent to invite the Palouscs to the council returned with .1 single
chief of that tribe, who s.iid that his people look little interest and would not
eonie.
Sund.iv, M.av '-7. Governor .Ste\ins made this entry in his jiiurn.il: "There
was service in the Nez Perce e.iiii|i .iml in the Nez Perce language. Tinidlhy being
the |)reaehir. The commissioners .attended. The sermon was on the ten com-
mandments. Timothy has a natural .and graceful delivery, and his words were
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 177
repeated Liv a iirompter. The Nez Perces liave evidently ])ro<ited imicli from the
labor of Mr. Spalding, who was with them ten years, and their whole deport-
ment throughout the service was devout."
The next day came the Yakimas. Agent Bolon and an interpreter went out
to meet them, and returned bringing Kamiaken and the Yellow Serpent. The
latter affected to be grieved and indignant over reports that he was unfriendly
to the whites, and declared his purpose to face the commissioners and ask why
such slanders had been circulated against him. Soon thereafter, in company with
Kamiaken, Owhi and Skloom. Yakima chiefs, rode into camp, dismounted and
shook hands in apparent friendship, but in the smoke that followed in the arbor
they used their own tobacco exclusively, declining that tendered them by the com-
missioners.
Governor Stevens foniially o]3ened the council in the afternoon of May 29, 1855.
Two thou^-and Indians, more than half of them Nez Perces, were present, seated
on tlie ground in semi-circular rows forty deep, one behind the other. Facing them,
under the arbor in front of the tent, sat the commissioners, secretaries, interpreters
and Indian agents. Timothy, chief and preacher of the Nez Perces, assisted by
several of his young men who had been taught to read and write by the missionary
Spalding, were provided a table beneath the arbor and kept their own records for
tliat -great and powerful tribe.
Beyond a silent, solemn smoking of the peace pipe, the appointment and swear-
ing in of two interpreters for each tribe, and some brief preliminary remarks, little
was accomplished the first day. Before adjiiuniing to ten o'clock the next morning
Governor Stevens repeated the oflfer of jirovisions for the various tribes, suggesting
that two oxen be taken to each camp and slaughtered for its use.
"We have plenty of cattle," replied Young Chief of the Cayuses. "They are
close to our camp. We have already killed three and have plenty of provisions.
General Palmer to the interpreter: "Say to the Yakimas, 'You have come a long
way: you may not have jirovisions. If you want any, we have them, and you are
welcome.'
"Kamiaken is supplied at our cam])." was the quick interjection of Young Chief
of the Cayuses, who declined, too. to dine at the table of the commissioners; but
Pu-jHi-niox-mox (the Yellow Serpent) and the great war chief Kamiaken were more
friendly in demeanor, dining with the commissioners and remaining afterwards a
long time in their tent, smoking and talking in a friendly way.
May 30 and 31 were devoted to a careful explanation by Governor Stevens of
tile two treaties that were under consideration. "There were to be two reserva-
tions, " says his son Hazard Stevens — one in the Nez Perce country of 3,000,000
acres, on the north side of Snake river, embracing both the Kooskooskia (Clearwater)
and Salmon rivers, including a large extent of good arable land, with fine fisheries,
root irrounds. limber and mill sites, and was for the accommodation of the Cayuses,
Walla Wallas. Umatillas and Spokanes, as well as the Nez Perces.
"The other embraced a large and fertile tract on the upper waters of the Ya-
kima, and was for the Yakimas, Klickitats, Palouses and kindred bands.
"The reservations were to belong to the Indians, and no white man should come
upon them without their consent. An agent, with school teachers, mechanics and
farmers, would take charge of each reservation, and instruct them in agriculture,
178 M'UKAM. AND Tllh J M.AM) KMl'IRE
trades, etc.; gri.st and saw mills were to be built; the laad chiefs were to receive an
annuity of ii=.")00 each, in order that they might devote their whole time to their
people; .ind annuities in clothing, tools and usetul articles were to be given for
twenty years, after which they were to be self-supijorling.
"The advantages of the reservations were dwelt uijon. They embraced some
of the best land in tin eoiintry. and were l.irge enough to atford each family a farm
to itself, besides gr.izing for all tlieir stock; they contained good fisheries, abundance
of roots and berries, and eonsider.ihie gaiiu-. Tiny were near enough to the great
roads for trade with tlir ininiigrants. yet far .iiough from them to be undisturbed
1)V travelers. By having so nianv tribes on one reservation, the agent could better
look after them, and could aeeoni])lisli more with the same means at his disposal.
"The stajjle argument lidd out was the s\ip( rior advantages of civilization, and
the absolute necessity of tiieir adojjting the habits and mode of life of the white
man in order to escape extinction, (iovernor Stevens also exorted them to treat
for the sake of tlu >x.imi)le ujion their inveterate enemies, the Blackfeet; that thereby
they would i)rove themselves firm friends of the whites, and that he would then take
delegations from each tribe with his jjarty .md proceed to the Blaekfoot country,
and make ,i lasting treaty of peace, so th.it they could ever after hunt the buffalo
in safety, .and trade horses with the Indians east of the Rocky mountains."
Young Chief of the Ciyuses began to show an a|)|)ariiit yielding. On tlie third
d.ay of tile eouneil he dined, for the first time, with the other head chiefs at the gov-
ernor's tal)le. .111(1 that evening sent word tiiat iiis young men had grown weary of
the close coiitiiieineiit of the long sessions, and as they desired a holiday, he asked
Ih.it the next d.ay be given uj) to diversion, and no eouneil be held until Saturday.
Tlie coinniissioners, pleased at this indication of ,i more tr.ietalile spirit, elieerfully
assented to the idea.
There were now assembled on tile ground, according to Lieutenant Kip, "about
.'j.OOO Indians, inehiding squaws and children;" .and tlieir encami)inent and
lodges, scattered over the valley for more tli.in a mile, [(resented "a wild .and f.intas-
tic appearance." Tlie holiday w.as given over to feasting, horse-racing and
foot-r.ieing. Despite .all missionary efforts to break up the gambling evil, that
passion still r.aii high in the Indian bre.ist. .and tieree g.amiiig attended these eouneil
races. "The usual course w.as a long one. sometimes two miles out ,ind back." says
Hazard Stevens. "Ofteiitinies thirty liorses would start together in a grand sweep-
st.akes ; tlu- riders .ind l)etters would throw into one eomiiion |)ile the articles put
up as stakes — blankets, leggings, inirsc ((luipnuiits .iiid wh.itevcr else w.is bet. .uid
the winner would take the whole jiile. The foot races were equally long. ,iiid the
runners would be escorted in their course by .1 crowd of iiumnled Iiidi.ms. g.iUoping
IkIiIikI .iiiiI licsidc Iheiii so eioscly tb;it tlic cxli.uisted ones cimld hardly stop without
be.ing run down. The riders .and runners were inv.iri.ibly stri])])ed to the breech-
cloth. ,111(1 presented m.any fine, manly forms, ))erfect .Vpollos in bronze."
WIh 11 IIk ((uiiieil reassembled, Saturd.ay. .Iiine 'J. (Jovernor Stevens invited the
Indi.ins to s|)eak freelv. "We want you to oi)en your hearts to us," he said, .and
seizing this invitation, the o|)))onents of the treaties ])roinptly took the lead in the
resulting or.itory.
"We have listened to .all you h.ave to say." began the Yellow Serpent, "and now
we desire you to listen when .any Indian speaks. I know the value of your speech
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 179
from having lieard sucli speeches in California, and having seen treaties there. We
liave not seen in a true light the object of your speeches, as if there were a tree set
between us. Look at yourselves: your flesh is white; mine is different, mine looks
poor."
Thus witli native skill of oratory. Yellow Serpent began an affected plea of in-
feriority, of humility, of inability to cope in cunning with the white commissioners.
Then, with a quick turn of insinuation, he declared, "If you would speak straight,
then I would think you spoke well." Then came a sharp thrust at the demoralizing
effects of that superior white civilization, upon which Governor Stevens had dwelt
in all liis utterances: "Should I speak to you of things that happened long ago, as
you have done.' The whites made me do what they pleased. They told me to do
this, and I did it. They used to make our women to smoke. I supposed then they
did what was right. When tliey told me to dance with all these nations that are
here, I danced. From that time all the Indians became proud and called themselves
chiefs.
"Xow how are we here as at a post? From what you have said, I think that you
intend to win our country, or how is it to be? In one day the Americans become as
numerous as the grass. This I learned in California. I know it is not riglit ; you
have spoken in a roundabout way. Speak straight. I have cars to liear you, and
here is my heart. Suppose you show me goods, shall I run up and take them ? That
is the way of all us Indians as you know us. Goods and the earth are not equal.
Goods are for using on the earth. I do not know where the whites have given lands
for goods.
"We require time to think quietly, slowly. You liave spoken in a manner quietly
tending to evil. Speak plain to us, I am a poor Indian; show me charity.
If there were a cliief among the Nez Perces or the Cayuses, and they saw evil done,
they would put a stop to it, and all would be quiet. Such chiefs I hope Governor
.Stevens and General Palmer have."
With cutting sarcasm, the Yellow Serjjent added, "I should feel very much
ashamed if the Americans did anything wrong. I had but a little to say, that is all."
As if by prearrangement, to bear out Yellow Serpent's assertion that the chiefs
would brook no wrong, Camospelo, a Cayuse chief, sharply rebuked some of his
yoimg men who had behaved in a disrespectful manner, talking and walking about
while the council was in session.
Late that evening Lawyer, chief of the Nez Perces, came secretly to the tent of
Governor Stevens and revealed a cons])iracy of the Cayuses to massacre all the
whites on the council ground. Lawyer, who had suspected treachery, had discovered
the peril through a spy. for the plot had been developed in great secrecy. It had
been under nightly consideration, and a determination reached in full council of the
tribe on the very day that Young Chief had sought as a holiday. They were now
onlv awaiting the assent of the Yakimas and Walla Wallas, and that gained, were
to start a war of white extermination.
Lawyer was ready and able to thwart the massacre. "I will come witii my
family and pitch my lodge in the midst of your camp," he declared, "so that those
Cayuses may see that you and your party are under the protection of the head chief
of the Nez Perces." Notwithstanding it was tlien after midnight. Lawyer carried
out his promise before daylight, and the next morning caused it to be bruited among
180 SI'OKAM. AM) llll. INLAND K.Ml'lKK
tlif other Iii(ii.ins that tin- coiiiniissioiurs enjoyed tlie protection of tlie ))owerful
Xez Perces.
Governor Stevens, fearing that full UiKiwlidfre of the conspiracy would start a
jjanic among the whites, revealed the news only to his secretary. Mr. Doty, and
Packniaster Iliggins, and through them the soldiers were directed to jiut their arms
in readiness. Night guards were posted, and the eouueil continued as if nothing
alarming had develo|ied.
On Mondav I.awver sjioke for the triaty. antl se\eral of iiis chiefs followed in
similar tenor. They were followed liy Kamiaken:
"I lia\c something different to say from what the others have said. They
are voung men who have spoken as they have spoken. I have been afraid of the
white man. His doings are different from ours. Perhaps you have spoken straight
that your children will do wiiat is right. Let them do as they have promised."
"I do not wish to speak," declared the Yellow .Serjient, contemlituously. "I leave
that to the old men."
Eagle-froni-the-Light. a Nez Perce chief. s|)()ke with deep feeling and pathetic
import. His .'^luecli was regarded by some of the white men as the most impressive
heard at the council :
"Vou .ire now come to join together the white m.m .and the red man. .\nd why
should 1 hide anything? I am going now to tell you a tale. The time the whites
first passed through this country. ,ilt hough the jieojile of this country were blind,
it w.is their heart to be friendly to them. Although they did not know what the
white iieojile s.iid to them, they answered Yes. as if they were blind. They traveled
.alioiit with (lie white people as if they h.id hei-ii lost.
"I have been talked to by the French (employes of the fur companies) and by
the Americans; and one says to me. Clo this way, and another says Go another way,
and that is the reason 1 am lost between them.
"A long time ago they hung my brother for no offense, and this I say to my
brother here, that he may think of it. Afterwards came .S])alding and \Vhitinaii.
They advised us well .and t.iught us well — very well. It was from the same source
— the light (the east). They h.id i)ity on us. and we were pitied, and .Spalding sent
my father to the east — the States, and he went. His body has never returned. Hi'
was Sent to learn good counsel, .and fririidshi)) and many things. This is another
thing to think of. ,\t the time, in this place here, when there w.is blood s])illed on
the ground, we were friends to the whites, and they to us. At that time they found
it out th.at we were friends to them. My ehirf. my own eliief. said. 'I will try to set-
Ih- ,ill the had iii.itti rs with IIk uliiles.' .-111(1 he st.vrtcd to look for counsel to
straighten ii|> iii.itlirs. .nid llirrr his body lies heyoud there. He has never returned.
".\t the tiiiK the Iridi.uis held ,i gr.iiid eouueil .at I'ort I.ar.amie, I was with the
I'l.itlieaiis. ;iiid I lie.ard there wcmld be a gr.aud eouueil on this side next year. \Ve
were asked to go .and liud counsel, friendship ;iiiil good advice. Many of my jieople
st.arted, and died in the country died hunting wh.il was right. There were a good
m,in\ st.arted: on (ineii rivir the sm.illpox killed all but oui'. They were going to
find good counsel in the cast, .and here am I, looking still for counsel, and to be
taught wh.at is best to he dom-.
"And now look .at my |)eo|)le's bodies scattered everywhere, hunting for knowl-
edge — liuntinLi; for some one to teach them to go straight. And now 1 show it to you,
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 181
and I want you to think of it. I am of a poor ptople. A preacher came to us, Mr.
Spalding. He talked to us to learn, and from that he turned to be a trader, as
though there were two in one, one a preacher and the other a trader. He made a
farm and raised grain and bought our stock, as though there were two in one, one a
preacher, the other a trader. And now one from the east has spoken, and I have
lieard it, and I do not wish another preacher to come, and be both trader and preacher
in one. A piece of ground for a preacher big enough for his own use is all that is
necessary for him.
"Look at that; it is the tale I had to tell you, and now I am going to hiuit
friendship and good advice. We will come straight here — slowly perhaps, but we
will come straight."
As the Indians were slow to speak. Governor Stevens and Commissioner Palmer
devoted the next two days to further explanation of the treaties and a large map,
showing the boundaries of the reservations, the streams, root grounds and camping
places.
Reticence, however, continued the prevailing attitude of the aboriginal mind.
The chiefs were slow to speak, and when Steachus, regarded as most amicable of all
the Cayuse leaders, expressed his sentiments, they revealed, even in that friendly
quarter, a spirit of disapprobation and doubt.
"My friends." began this chief, "I wish to show you my heart. If your mother
were in tliis country, gave you birth and suckled you, and, while you were suckling,
some iK-rson eame and took away your mother, and left you alone and sold your
mother, how would you feel then ? This is our mother — this country — as if we drew
our living from her. My friends, all of this you have taken. Had I two rivers, I
would leave the one, and be contented to live on the other. I name the place for
invself, the CJrande Ronde, the Touchet towards the mountains, and the Tucanon."
Willing to divide his native land with the white invaders, but grieved and mourn-
ful over the thought of yielding it all, to the last rood and acre, and moving with his
peoi)le to a strange and distant reservation. W^ith dim eye and savage, angry heart,
this forbidding jjrosjject had been glimpsed by the Cayuse mind eight years before,
when Whitman and his little mission band were slain in protest against that ever
increasing train of tented wagons, rolling out of the mysterious and distant east,
and rumbling down the western slopes of the beautiful Blue mountains.
Stevens and Palmer well knew how futile it is to attempt to rush the Indian
mind to hasty decision, and tactfully adjourned the council to the following day.
Lawyer, sjieaking then for the Nez Perces, adopted the only line of reasoning that
gave the sliglitest hope of winning over the cold and sullen chiefs of other tribes.
He dwelt upon the vast numbers of westward moving whites, th( ])ower of their
civilization, the utter hopelessness of Indian opposition, and the imperative need
of a peaceful adjustment of their relations. Their only refuge, he declared, would
be found in placing themselves under the protection of the Great Father at Wash-
ington. Silence followed this api)eal for the treaty, to be broken by the haughty
Young Chief of the Cayuses.
"His country he would not sell. He heard what the earth said. The earth said
to him, 'God has ]>laced me here to take care of the Indian, to yield roots for him,
and grasses for his horses and cattle.' The water spoke the same way. God has
182 .SI'OK.WI-, AM) llll'. INLAND EMPIRE
forbidden the Indian to st-li liis iniintry ixti pt lor a fair price, and lie did not
understand the treaty."
This adroit use of revelation served as a cue for Five Crows, the Yellow Serpent,
Owhi and several other chiefs — Owlii, who, three years later, was to meet his death
in a daring effort to escape from the guards of Colonel Wright's command.
l'u-])U-mox-mox, or the Yellow Serpent, head chief of the Walla Wallas, proposed
that this council siiould adjourn, and inntln r he held at some future time. He
protested that the Indians were treated like cluldren, were not consulted in the draft-
ing of treaties which they were asked to sign, and declared that he wanted no alterna-
tive to the complete exclusion of the white people from his domains, Kamiaken, the
famous war chief of the Y'akimas, maintained a studied silence. "I have nothing
to say, " was his invariable reply to all appeals to reveal his heart.
Governor Stevens saw that the time had come for plain speaking and vigorous
resentment of the accusation that the white commissioners were seeking to deceive
the red parties to the i)roi)osed treaty.
".My brother and myself have talked straight. Have all of you talked straight?
Lawyer has, and his jieople here, .and their business will be done tomorrow.
"The Y'oung Chief says he is blind and does not understand. What is it that he
wants? Steachus says that his heart is in one of three places — the Grande Rondc,
the Touchet and the Tueanon. Where is the heart of Y'oung Chief?
"Pu-j)u-niox-mo.\ can not be wafted off like a feather. Does he prefer the
Yakima reservation to that of the Niz I'crecs? We have asked him before. \Ve
ask him now. Where is his heart?
".\iid Kamiaken, the great chief of the ^'akiiiias, he lias not spoken at all. His
people have had no voice here today. He is not ashamed to sjieak. He is not
afraid to speak. Then speak out.
"But Owhi is afraid lest (iod be angry .'it his selling his land. Owhi. niv
brother, I do not think th.-it (iod will be angry if you do your best for yourself and
your children. Ask yourself this question tonight, "Will not God be angry with me
if I neglected this oijjiortunity to do them good?' Owhi .'■ays his peo])le are not here.
Why did he promise to come here, then, to hear our talk? 1 do not want to be
ashamed of Owhi. We exjieet him to s)>eak straight out. W't rxpict to luar from
Kamiaken, from Skloom."
I'ive Crows here proposed an adjournment. "Listen to me. you chiefs," said he.
"Hitherto we have iieeii as one peo))lc with the Ne/, Perees. This dav we are di-
vided. We, tlir (ayiisrs. tin Walla Wallas and Kaniiaken's people and others will
tliiiik oxer tin- iiiatlir toiiiglit. and give you an aiiswir tomorrow."
.Slrvens .and Palmer bad now sutlieiently tested out the Indian mind to see that
in its present form tin Irialy would fail of aeeeptaii(( . ( nine ssioiis must be made,
and to overcome the avt rsioii of tin Cayuscs, llic Wall.i Wallas and the Umatillas to
removing to the Nez Peree l.inds, liny brought forward at the council next dav a
])lan for ;m additional reservation on tin upp( r waters of the Um.atill.a, at the base
of tin- Ulue mountains. To mollify the stubborn chiefs, the annuities of $500 to be
paid each of the head chiefs for ten years were extended over a period of twenty
years. The Y'ellow Ser|)ent w.-is offered the .addition.il .advantage of trading with
settlers and immigrants .at an cstalilisbcd trading post, and an annuity of .^100 for
twenty years to his son. In b ngtliy. rainbliiig speeelics Young Chief and Yillow
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 183
Serpent accepted the treaties. "Now you maj' send me provisions," said the Yel-
low Serpent in conclusion; but Kamiaken of the Yakimas maintained his sullen
bearing and refused to assent to the treaties.
A startling incident now menaced all the efforts of the two commissioners. A
small band of warriors, painted, armed, chanting a war-song and waving the gory
trophy of a freshly taken scalp, came galloping upon the council ground. Instantly
the o-reat assemblage was thrown into conjecture and commotion. Looking Glass,
war chief of the Nez Perces, returning from a prolonged hunting trip among the
Blackfeet, on the great plains east of the Rocky mountains, had learned, on reach-
ing the Bitter Root valley, that his tribe were in a great council in the Walla Walla
valley, negotiating a treaty without his presence or knowledge. This chief, while
old. petulant and shifty, had an influence with the tribe second only to that of
Lawyer. He had been made furious by the news, and leaving the main body of his
iuinting party on the Bitter Root river, had hurried westward with a few chosen
friends. In spite of his seventy years, and deep and melting snows in the Bitter Roots,
the war chief and his party had traveled 300 miles in seven days, and were now
arrived upon the council ground at the critical moment when the commissioners
were laboring with the recalcitrant Kamiaken. Surrounded by his band of faithful
warriors, still waving the scalp-locks of their Blackfeet victims. Looking Glass rode
proudly upon the scene, his brow a thunder-cloud of angry protest, his eye darting
indignation at his friends, and broke into a fierce Jeremiad against the tribe:
"My people, my people, what have you done? While I was gone, you have sold
mv country ! I have come liome, and there is not left me a place on which to pitch
rav lodge. Go home to your lodges ! I will talk to you !"
Instantly the council was adjourned, and Governor Stevens sought private coun-
sel with Lawyer, who thought that the war chief would calm down when he learned
the terms of the treaty. Lawyer, said, though, that Looking Glass's untimely return
had so unsettled the tribe that the original boundaries of the Nez Perce reservation,
though larger than the tribe would need since other provision had been made for the
Cayuses, Walla Wallas and Umatillas, could not now be reduced.
When tlie council met the following day it quickly became apparent that Look-
ing Glass had not softened down. He asserted his head chieftainship over the Nez
Perce tribe, and contemptuously said that the boys had spoken yesterday, but now
his voice must be heard. After many inquiries and objections, he finally mapped
out other lines for the Nez Perce reservation which included nearly all the territory
that the tribe had ever claimed. Encouraged by Looking Glass's opposition, the
Cayuses witlulrew their assent to the treaty, and Young Chief artfully played on
the seeming indignity suffered bj' the Nez Perce war chief, while away fighting the
hereditary enemies of his tribe, and still more artfully recognized him as head chief
of all the Nez Perces. Lawyer, indignant at this attempted repudiation of his
riglits, abruptly left the council while Looking Glass was delivering his fierce
tirade. The commissioners, refusing to yield to the grasping demands of the aged
cliicf, adjourned the council to the following Monday.
Affairs took now a more hopeful form, for after adjournment. Yellow Serpent
for the Walla Wallas, and Kamiaken for tile Yakimas, yielding under pressure from
their sub-chiefs and head men, came in and signed their respective treaties. The
Yellow Serpent had said in the morning, when a spirit of repudiation was in the air,
184 SrOKAM-, AND Till-, IMAM) KMPIRF.
that his word had passed, and he sliould sign the treaty regardless of what Looking
Glass and his followers anionf; the Xez Perees iniirlit do. His exainplt- h.iii imiell
iiitiiiirice willi Kaiiiiakrii.
I.atir in the cviiiinfr a mw eoiiiplicatioii. in tlic aggrieved bearing of tin- faith-
lul atid friendly I.awyi-r, confronted (ioviriior Stivcns. Comiiij; to tin- fro\rriior's
tent, tins chief said in complaint:
"Governor Stevens, you are my chief. You eoine from tlu' Pnsidint. 11( has
s])okcn kind words to us, a j>oor peO])le. \\'i lia\ r listened to them and agreed to a
treaty. We are hound by tlie agreemint. \\ In ii Looking Gl.iss asked you. 'HoW
long will the agent live with us?' you might liave replied by asking the question,
'How long have you heen head cliief of tlie Nez Perees.'' When he said. 'L tlie head
chief have just got hack; I will talk; the hoys talked yesterday,' you migiit have re-
pli((i. 'The Lawyer, and not you, is tlie head iliief. 'I'he whole Xcz Perce tribe have
said in council tiiat Lawyer was the head chief. Your faith is ])ledged ; vou have
agreed to the treaty. I call upon you to sign it.' H.id tiiis course been taken, the
treaty would Iiave been signed."
"In reply," s.ays Stevens, "I told the Lawyer that we considered .ill the talk of
Looking (jlass as tiie outjiourings of an angrj' and excited old man, wiiose heart
would become .ill right if left to himself for a time; that the Lawyer had left the
council whilst in session. ,ind without sjicaking; that it was his business to have
interfered in this way if it had been necessary. We considered the Lawyer's leaving
as saying, 'Nothing more can be done today; it must lie finished tomorrow.' Y'our
authority will be sustained, and your ])eo|)h' will be called upon to kee)) their word.
You will be s\ist;iined. The Looking Glass will not be allowed to speak .is head
chief. ^ ou. and ynu .ilone. will be recognized. .Should Looking Glass persist, the
,i|)))e,il will l)e m.ide to your people. Tliev must sign the treaty agreed to bv them
through you as liead chief, or the council will be broken up and you will return
home, your faith broken, your lio))es of the future gone."
Nez Perce and (ayuse tribal councils, held tli.it night, were not concluded until
d.iylight. The Nez Perees had a stormy council, but ended in an agreement th.-it
Lawyer was Ik ad chief, ami Looking Glass second only to him. This w.-is redueid
to writing, and cont.aiiied .1 decl.iration that the f.iitli of the tribe w.is pledged to
(iovernor Stevens and the treaty must be signed.
A peaceful .'^abbatli succeeded these stormy events, and pious Timotln . th.it
Timothy who Later, in 18.')8. was to save Colonel .Ste))toe's little command from ut-
t<r rout .and death, jireached a timely sermon, holding up to the execr.ation of the
tribe .and llie rrtriliutiou of I h-;iven those members who would follow after the
treacherous te;ieiiings of the t'.ayuses .and bre;ik tin unsullied Nez Perec faith. That
day K.imiaken. in conference witii Stevens, s.iid :
"Looking (il.ass. if left alone, will sign the tre.ity. Don't .ask me to .accept pres-
ents. I have nexcr taken one from a wiiiti man. W'lu n the |i;i\inents .an- made I
will take my shari. "
.Mond.iy lirouglit tlie closing scenes of this s|)eetaejilar and momentous council.
K.arly in (Ik morning (iovernor Stevens said to L.iwver: 'We .are now ready to go
into eouiieil. I sliall call u))on your people to keep their word, and ujion you, as
hc.id chief, to sign (irst. We w.int no s|Heehes. This will be the Last d.ay of the
eoiineil. Call your people tog( ther .is soon .as possible." "That is the right course,"
AVALI.A WAl.l.A (OlWt IL, 18.55
■ ~> i I " ■;:ig am - j, -s-">__'"^ "^ -' '•T'*! "''''■'
IKASTIXG THK clIIKFS AT WALLA WALLA COUNCIL
^4^*fr
W^Ll i.nMM.
TLIE SCALP DANCE AT WALLA WALLA COUNCIL
PEKSENTS AND SUPPLIES WERE STORED
IN THE LO(i HUT
''in:: tl " YORK
PUBUC LIBRARY
*4T*». Lt^^ax
T.LBkx fOvNOAfiONi
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 185
replied Lawyer, as he turned away to assemble his people. Governor Stevens thus
describes the closing scenes of the gathering:
■'Tlie Looking Glass took his seat in council in the very best humor. The Cayuses
and Nez Perces were all present. Kamiaken sat down near the Young Chief. The
council was opened by me in a brief speech: 'We meet for the last time. Your words
are pledged to sign the treaty. The tribes have spoken through their head chiefs,
.loseph. Red Wolf, the Eagle, Ip-se-male-e-con, all declaring Lawyer was the head
chief, I call upon Lawyer to sign first.' Lawyer then signed the treaty. 'I now
call upon Joseph and the Looking Glass.' Looking Glass signed, then Joseph. Then
every chief and man of note, both Nez Perces and Cayuses, signed their respective
treaties.
"After the treaties were signed, I spoke briefly of the Blackfoot council, and
asked each tribe to send delegations, the Nez Perces a hundred chiefs and braves,
the whole under the head chief, or some chief of acknowledged authority, as Look-
ing Glass. There was much talk on the subject on the part of the Indians. Look-
ing Glass said he would have a talk with me alone some other time."
The council ended, presents were distributed among the assembled tribes. In
return for liis jiresent, Eagle-from-the-I>ight, the Nez Perce chief who had spoken
in eloquent op))osition to the treaty, and proudly refused the commissioners' offer of
provisions, tendered to Governor Stevens a superb skin of a grizzly bear, with teeth
and claws intact. "Tliis skin," he said in a presentation speech, "is my medicine.
It came with me every day to tlie council. It tells me everything.
It says now that what has been done is right. Had anything been done wrong it
would have sjjoken out. I liave now no'u'se for it. I give it you that you mav know
niv heart is right. " Every day throughout the council sessions, Eagle-from-the-
Light liad sat u]ion this skin, teeth and cla-ws turned towards the commissioners, re-
fusing tlie roll of blankets which had been offered liim.
"Thus ended," says Governor Stevens' journal, "in the most satisfactory manner,
tliis great council, prolonged through so many days — a council which, in the lumi-
ber of Indians assembled and the different tribes, old difficulties and troubles be-
tween them and the whites, a deep-seated dislike to and determination against giv-
ing up their lands, and the great importance, nay, absolute necessity, of opening this
land by treaty to occupation by the whites, that bloodshed and the enormous expense
of Indian wars might be avoided, and in its general influence and difficulty — has
never been equaled by any council held with the Indian tribes of the L'nited States.
"It was so considered by all present, and a final relief from the intense anxiety
and vexation of the last month was especially grateful to all concerned."
In celebration of the conclusion of the treaty, and the return of Chief Looking
Glass and his braves from the buffalo country, the Nez Perces gave a scalp dance.
Hazard Stevens, the governor's son, who witnessed with boyish eyes that frightful
savage scene, describes it in his biography of Governor Stevens :
"The chiefs and braves, in full war paint and adorned with all their savage
finery, formed a large circle, standing several ranks deep. Within this arena a
chosen body of warriors performed the war dance, while the densely massed ranks
of braves circled around them, keeping time in measured tread, and accompanving
it with their wild and barbaric war song. The ferocious and often hideous mien of
these stalwart savages, their frenzied attitudes and shrill and startling yells, formed
186 SPOKANE AM) THK INLAND KMI'IKK
a subject worthy the pen nt D.intc and tin- piiuil ot Dore. Tin- missionary still
h;icl work to do.
"Presently an old Iiag, the very j)ieture of squalor and woe, hurst into the circle,
bearing aloft on a pole one of the fresh scalps so recently taken by Looking Glass,
and, dancing and jumping about with wild and extravagant action, heaped upon tlie
poor relic of a fallen foe every mark of indignity and contempt. .Shaking it aloft,
slie vociferously abused it; she beat it, she spat u))on it; she bestrode the pole and
ruslud around tlie ring, trailing it in the dust, again and again; while the warriors,
with grim satisfaction, kept up their measured tread, clianted their war songs, and
uttered, if possible, yet more ear-piercing yiils.
"A softer and more pleasing scene succeeded. The old hag retired with her be-
draggled tropliy, and a long line of Indian maidens stepped witiiiii tile circles, and,
forming an inner rank, moved slowly roiuid and round, chanting a mild and plain-
tive air. A number of the stylisli young braves, real Indian beaux in the height of
paint and feathers, next took post within tlie circle, near the rank of moving maid-
ens, .-iiid each one, as the object of his adoration passed him, placed a gaily deco-
rated token upon her slioulder. If she allowed it to remain, his affection was re-
turned and lie was .accejjted, but if she shook it off, he knew that he was a rejected
suitor. Coquetry, evidently, is not confined to the civilized fair, for, without excep-
tion, the maidens, as if indignant at such public wooing threw off the token with
disdain, while every new victim of delusive hopes was greeted with sliouts of laugii-
ter troiii the spectators."
W'iien tlie council ended thus happily, few of the little band of white partiei-
))ants, realized how |)erilously near tiiey iiad been to a death of Indian treachery.
If tile Nez Perce eliief Lawyer Iiad not, through his spies in the hostile Cayuse
cam]), discovered the conspiracy, warned Stevens and assumed ojjen and conspicu-
ous protectorate over the commissioners and their ])arty, the murderous plot would
probably have been consummated, and the fair valley of the Walla Walla would
have witnessed a recurrence of that Cayuse treachery which .signalized the destruc-
tion of the Whitm;in mission.
"Their design, (says Lieutenant Kip) was first to massacre the escort, which
would have been easily done. Fifty soldiers against .S.OOO Indi.in w.irriors. out on
the ojien plains, made r.itiier too great odds. We should iiave had time, like Lieuten-
ant Grattan at I'ort L.ir.ainie last season, to deliver one fire, and then the contest
would have been over. Tiieir next move was to surjirise the jiost at The Dalles, as
they could also have easily done, as most of the troojis were withdrawn, .nnd the
Indians in the neighborhood had recently unit<(l with tlieiii. Tliis would have been
the beginning of tiuir w.-ir of extermination ag;iinst the settlers."
"L'oiled in their ))lot," comments Hazard .Stevens, "why did they then so i|iiiekly
agree to the treaties.' All the eirewmstanees ;ind evidence go to show that, with the
exccjition of Ste.-idius, the friendly Cayuse, they all — Young Chief, Five Crows,
Pu-pu-inox-niox, K.imi.iken .and their sub-ciiiefs — all signed tile treaties as a delib-
erate act of treaeliery. in order to lull the whites into fancied security, gi\f time for
Ciovernor .Stevens to (iej)art to the distant lilackfoot country, where he would |)rob-
ably be wiped out by those truculent savagi s. .and for the Nez Perces to return
home, and also for eoin|)leting their preparations fnr a wide-spread and siiiuiltaiieous
onslaught (in all the settlements. .Searcely had lliiy reached home from the council
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 187
v/lien the.v resumed such preparation, buying extra stores of ammunition, and send-
ing emissaries to the Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes and even to some of the Nez Perces
and to other tribes, to incite them to a war, actually held a council of the disaf-
fected at a point in the Palouse country the following month, and, within three
months of accepting ostensibly the protection of the Great Father, precipitated the
conflict. Agent Bolon and many white miners and settlers in the upper country were
massacred, and settlements as widespread as Puget Sound and southern Oregon, 600
miles apart, were attacked on the same day. In this conspiracy and contest, Kamia-
ken was the moving spirit, the organizer, the instigator, whose crafty wiles never
slept, and whose stubborn resolution no disaster could break. But in the end, after
protracted and stubborn resistance, they were defeated and compelled to move on
their reservations, and live under the very treaties they so treacherously agreed to,
and under which they still live and have greatly prospered.
"Over 60,000 square miles were ceded by these treaties. The Nez Perce reser-
vation contained 5,000 square miles, including mountain and forest as well as good
land, and ])rovision was made for moving other tribes upon it. The payment for
the Ntz Perce lands comprised .^'200,000 in the usual annuities, and $60,000 for im-
proving tlie reservation, saw and grist mills, schools, shops, teachers, farmers, me-
chanics, etc. Ardent spirits were excluded. The right to hunt, fish, gather roots
and berries, and pasture stock on vacant land was secured, and provision was made
for ultimately allotting the land in severalty. An annuity of $500 for twenty years
was given the head chief, and a house was to be built for him, and ten acres of land
fenced and broken up the first year. At the special request of the Indians, the claim
and homestead of William Craig (near Lewiston) was confirmed to him, and was
not to be considered jaart of the reservation, although within its boundaries."
Besides I^awyer and Looking Glass, fifty-six sub-chiefs signed the Nez Perce
treaty. Of these was Joseph, father of the younger Joseph, who, twenty-two years
later, was to become famous as leader of the warring Xez Perces and fight a bril-
liant running battle, over a long and devious trail, baffling again and again Generals
Howard and Gibbon, and inflicting heavy losses on the regulars engaged in that mem-
orable canii)aign of 1877.
Eight hundred square miles were embraced in the Umatilla reservation. The
treaty carried $100,000 in annuities. $50, ()()() for improvements, $10,000 for moving
the immigrant road, and provisions for a saw and a grist mill, two schoolhouses,
a blaeksmitii shop, wagon and plough-making shop, carpenter and joiner shop,
tools and equipments. For instruction, teachers, farmers and mechanics were
provided for twenty years. The head chief received the same allowance as in
the Nez Perce treaty, and Pu-pu-mox-mox was granted the privilege of conduct-
ing a trading post at the mouth of the Yakima, and received besides three j'oke
of oxen and liberal stores of agricultural macliinery and farm implements. The
canny old chief had certainly driven a hard bargain. This treaty was signed
by three head-chiefs and thirty-two sub-chiefs.
The Yakima treaty carried the same general provisions as the Nez Perce
and Umatilla agreements. In addition to their large reservation in the Yakima
country, they were given a smaller one on the Wenatchee, where they had a fishery.
The payments carried $200,000 in annuities, .$60,000 for improving the reserva-
tions, and allowances for instruction, etc., similar to those in the other treaties.
CHAPTER XX
NEGOTIATING THE FLATHEAD TREATY IN MONTANA
WALLA WALLA COUNCIL BREAKS UP TRAILS FILLED WITH WILD AND PICTURESQUE
CAVALCADES GIFTS FOR THE SPOKANES STRIKING BORDER CHARACTERS PEARSON
THE EXPRESS RIDER STEVENs' LITTLE PARTY MOVES EASTWARD ACROSS THE INLAND
EMPIRE GREAT COUNCIL ON THE HELLGATE GOVERNOR STEVENS EXPLAINS THE
TREATIES MORE INDIAN ORATORY CUTTING THE GORDIAN KNOT "eVERY MAN
PLEASED AND EVERY MAN SATISFIED."
s
CENES of extraordinary bustlf and seeming confusion succeeded the ter-
mination of the council. A great village of more than 5,000 iieople was
quickly demolished and as quickly passed from view. Lodges were lowered,
the scattered herds were rounded up, and decked in their gorgeous and resplendent
gifts of scarlet blankets and gaily figured calicoes, the assembled tribes scattered
to every point of the compass. They "filled all the trails leading out of the valley
with their wild and picturesque cavalcades."
Next in order now was the holding of other great councils with the Flatheads
.ind neighboring tribes, the Spokanes, and the warlike Blackfeet in the buffalo
country east of the Rocky mountains. As the territory of Washington joined then
tlie territory of Nebraska, Alfred Cumming, superintendent of Indian affairs for
Nebraska, had been appointed as one of three commissioners to negotiate the
Blackfoot treaty. General Palmer of Oregon had been named as the third, but
his territory having at most, only remote association with the far eastern tribes,
he declined the appointment, and with the Oregon officers left for the Willamette
valley.
As Stevens intended to negotiate a separate treaty with the Spokanes, on his
return from the Blackfoot council, A. ,1. Bolon, Indian agent of the Yakimas,
was despatched with a small party to old Fort Walla Walla on the Columbia, with
goods intended for the Spokanes, there to be stored for safe-keeping. He was
next to visit and inspect the Yakima reservation, and after that |)roceed to The
Dalles, bring the Nez Perce goods to Walla Walla, wliere he was to load up with
the Spokane goods and pack them to Antoine Plant's ranch on the Spokane river,
preparatorv to the governor's conneil on his return from the country of the Black-
feet.
"It was a beautiful sunny .luiie morning, the 16th," says Hazard Stevens,
"when the little train drew out from the deserted council ground and took its way
in single file across the level valley prairie, covered with luxuriant bunch-grass
189
190 SPOKANj; AND TllL INLAND K.Ml'JKE
and viv.d-hued flowers. A large, fine-lookinft Co.ur d'Alenc Indian named Joseph,
1((1 the way as guide; then rode tlie governor with his son, Seeretary Doty,, Agent
Lansdalc, and Gustavc Schon, the artist, barometer carrier and observer; then
came Packmaster Higgins. followed by the train of eleven packers and two cooks,
and forty-one sleek, long-eared pack-mules, each bearing a burden of iiOO jjounds,
the men interspersed with th, nuiK-s to k,,p th.ni moving on tile trail; while
seventeen loose animals, in a disorderly bunch, driven by a couple of iierders,
brought up in the rear. It was a picked force, boti, men "and animals, and made
up in efliciency for scanty numbers.
"The artist, Gustavc Schon, a soldier of the Fourth infantry, detailed for
tile trip, was an intelligent German, a clever sketcher, and competent to take
instrumental observations.
"Higgins. ex-orderly sergeant of dragoons, a tall, broad-shouldered, spare,
sinewy man, a fine swordsman and drillmaster. a scientific boxer, was a man of
unusual firmness, intelligence, and good judgment, and (juiet. gentlemanly manners,
and held the implicit respect, obedience and good will of his subordiiiates. He
afterwards became the founder, banker and first citizen of the flourishing town of
Mis.soula, at Hellgate in the Bitter Root valley.
"A. H. Robie worked up from the ranks, married a daughter of Craig, and
settled at Boise City. Idaho, where he achieved .i highly prosp.rous and respected
career.
"Sidney Ford, a son of ,(udge Ford, was a Ii.uidsome. stalwart young Saxon
in appearance, bro.id-should.nd. sensible, capable, and kindly. The others were
all men of experience on the iilaius and uiouiit liiis, brave and true. Hv all odds
the most skilful and picturesque of these mountain men. and liaving the most
varied and romantic liistory. was Delaware .Jim. whose father was a Delaware
chief and his mother a uliitr woman, and wlio had s|),iit a lifctiuie -for he was
now past middle age— in hunting and traveling over all parts of the country, from
the Mississippi to the Pacific, meeting with many thrilling adventures and hair-
breadth escapes.
".Many of the men were clad in buckskin moccasins, breeches and fringed hunt-
ing shirts: others ill rough, serviceable woolen garb, stout boots and wide slouch
bats. All carried navy revolvers and keen bowie knives, and many in addition
bore the long, heavy, small-bond Kintueky rifle, uliieii tluy fired with -reat
deliberation and unerring skill.
"One of the most remarkable iiirii <'()niiectr(l uilh the expedition was tlir ex-
press rider, W. H. Pearson. A native of I'liiladrljiliia. of small but w<ll knit
frame, with muscles of steel, and spirit and eiiduranee that no exertion app.in ntly
could break down, waving, chestnut hair, high forehead, a refiiud, intelligent .md
Jileasant face, the m/iiiners and bearing of a gentleman such w.is Pearson."
In one of his oIKcial reiiorts (lovernor Stivcns pays cordial trilmte to this
spl. ndid border character: "Hardy, bold, intelligent and resolute. !iavin;r .i cjreat
div.rsity of exixrieiiee. whieh liail made him .leiiuainted with all tli,- nlations
between Indians and white men from the lionhrs of Texas to the fortv-nintli
parallel, and which enabled him to know lust how to move, whether under south-
ern tropics or the winter snows of the north, I suppose there has scarcely ever
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 191
bttii any man in the service of the government who excelled Pearson as an ex-
pressman."
Taking the Nez Perce trail, the party moved leisurely up through the Walla
Walla valley into the Palouse country, camped one night on Hangman creek south of
the falls of the Spokane, passed thence into the Coeur d'Alenes, and moving
up the Coeur d'Alene river, by way of the Catholic mission, retraced the gover-
nor's route of 1853, and crossing the summit of the Bitter Root mountains on July 1,
descended the St. Regis de Borgia, and came to the Bitter Root river on July 3.
While encamped on Hangman creek. Governor Stevens was visited by the Palouse
chief Slah-yot-see and thirty braves, the chief complaining because no goods had
been given him at the Walla Walla council. The governor promptly met his
whining with this terse reply:
"Slah-vot-see, you went away before the council was ended. Koh-lat-toose
remained and signed the treaty. He was recognized as the head chief of the
Palouses, and to him the goods were given to be distributed among his tribe as he
and the princijjal men should determine. I have brought no goods to give you.
Go to Koh-lat-toose. He is the chief, and it is from him you must obtain your
share of the presents. Had you remained until tlie council terminated, you would
have had a voice in the distribution of the goods. Kamiaken, your head chief,
signed the treaty, and said that he should bring the Palouses into the Yakima
country, where they properly belonged."
The crossing of the Bitter Root river was safely effected on July K altliougli
the stream was then at its torrential stage. Moving eastward, the party was met
on the 7th bv 300 chiefs and warriors of the Flathead, Pend d'Oreille and Kootenay
tribes, and with a rattling discharge of musketry were conducted to their encamp-
ment near the Hellgate river. After a pleasant conference of several hours, the
governor's party established camj) on the main river, a mile distant from the Indian
rendezvous. That afternoon three liead chiefs — Victor of the Flatheads, Alexan-
der of the Pend d'Oreilles, and Michelle of the Kootenays, along with several
sub-chiefs, visited the governor, and after the peace pipe had been dulv smoked,
were addressed by him in his usual ojK'ning vein. He spoke of the recent council
at Walla Walla, and proposed the following Monday as opening day for tluir
council.
"The Flatheads or Salish," says Hazard Stevens, "including the Pend d'Oreilles
and Kootenays, were among those who had been driven westward by the Blackfeet,
and now occupied the pleasant valleys of the mountains. They were
noted for their intelligence, honesty and bravery, and although of medium
stature and inferior in physique to the brawny Blackfeet, never hesitated to attack
them if the odds were not greater than five to one. Having been supplied liy the
early fur-traders with firearms, which enabled them to make a stand against their
out-numbering foe, they had always been the firm friends of the whites, and like
the Nez Perees, often hunted with the mountain men and entertained them in their
lodges. A number of Iroquois hunters and half-breeds had joined and interm.ir-
ried with them. (These Iroquois had been brought into this country by the old
Northwest Fur company, as I'oi/ageurs or boatmen, in which occupation they gen-
erally excelled all others.) The Bitter Root valley was the seat of the Flatheads
))roper. The Pend d'Oreilles lived lower down the river, or northward in two
I'Jii S1H)KA.\K AND THK IMAM) K.MPIRE
li.-iiids- -tile L pjxT I'l 11(1 (iOrcilks on tin- Horse |)l.iiiis .irid .locko prairies, and
till- lower Peiid d'Oreilles on Clark's fork. l)elow the lake of their name, and
were canoe Indians, owning few horses. Tile Kootenays lived about the I'lathead
river and lake. All these, except the Lower Pend d'Oreilles, went to buffalo, and
their hunting trips were spiced with the constant peril and excitement of frequent
skirmishes with their hereditary enemies. The Jesuits, in 1843, estiiblished .i mis-
sion among the Lower Peiid d'Oreilles, but in ISot moved to the Flathead river,
mar the mouth of the .loeko. They also started a mission among the Llatheads
in tile Bitter Root \alley. forty miles above Hellgatc, where they founded the
luautiful village of .'^t. Mary, .iiiiid eliarming scenery; but the incessant raids of
the IJlackfeet were surely hut slowly wiping out' these brave and interesting
Indi.ins. and the mission was abandoned in 18.tO as too much exposed. The Owen
Brothers then started :i trading post at this point, whicli they named I-'ort Owen;
.•md fourteen miles .ihoxc it l.ieuteii.uit MuUan Imilt his winter cam]) in 1853,
kuouii as ('aiitoiuiiint .Stevens, wliieh has been sueei'eded by the town of .Stevens-
villr.'
.Vt tin- ojuning session of the council. .Monday, .hily 9, Governor Stevens made
a long speech in which he pointed out the su))erior advantages of civilization,
their need of the |)roteetiiig arm of the Great Lather to sto|) the incessant and
decimating w.irs with the Blackfcet, and the detailed terms and advantages pro-
posed by the government. But whib- the Indians were most friendly in si)irit,
and willing .md even eager to follow the white iii.in's way. they shrank from the
reciuirement of the |)ro])osed treaty wliich compelled them .ill to go U))oii the same
reservation. But to the governor this requirement seemed advisable and bene-
ficial, since all three tribes belonged to the common Salish familv, sjjeaking the
s.ime language and being closely interm.-irried and otherwise allied. He therefore
offered to segregate a tract for them eillur in the upper Bitter Root valley in
^'i(■tor's country, or the Horse jilains .-uid .loeko rixcr in the Pend d'Oreille terri-
tory.
When the governor had finished, the chiefs, one by one. voiced either tlieir
open opposition or ex))risse(l iniphatic reluctance to the ado|)tion of this ))lan.
Big Canoe, a Pend d'Oreilli eliit f. objected to relinquishing any i).irt of his terri-
tory, but thought the whites and Indians eoiild continue to dwell together without
treaties or reservations. In his speech. ;is tr.inslated by the interjireters. be said:
"Talk about treaty, when did 1 kill you: Winn did you kill me? What is
the reason we are talking about treaties? We ,ire friends. We never spilt the
blond of one of you. I never saw your blood. I w.int my country. I thought no
one would ever w.iiit to talk about my eounlry. Now you t;ilk. you white men.
Now that I li.i\( he.ird. I wish the whites to stop coming. Perhaps you will put
me in a trap, if I do not listen to you. white chiefs. It is our land, both of us.
If you make a f.irin. I would not go tin ri- and |)ull up your crops. I would not
drive vou away from it. If I were to go to your eounlry and say, 'Give nie ,a
little piece.' I wondi r would you say. 'Here, t.ike it.' I exjiect that is the same
wav vou w.aiit uu to do lien . I :im \iry poor. This is .ill the sm.all |)ieee I have
got. I .1111 not going to lei it go. I did not come to make troiibli-; tlurefore I
would s.iy, I .am very poor.
"It is two winters since you Jjassed here. I'.vtry yi.ir since my horses have
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 193
gone to tlie Blackfeet. Here this spring the Blackfeet put my daughter on foot.
She packed her goods on her back. It made me feel bad. I was going on a war
party as your express passed along. Tlien I think of what I heard from j'ou, my
father, and take my heart back and keep quiet. If I had not listened to your
express, I should have gone on war parties over yonder. We drove one band of
horses from the Blackfeet. I talked about it to my Indians. I said, 'Give tlie
horses back, my children.' My chief took them back. You talked about it strong,
my father. Mj"- chief took them back. That is the way we act. When I found
mj' children were going on war parties, I would tell them to stop, be quiet. Tell
them I expect now we will see the chief. I expect he will talk to the Blackfeet
again."
Governor Stevens: "I will ask you, my children, if you fully understand all
that was said yesterday ? I ask you now, can you all agree to live on one reserva-
tion ? I ask Victor, are j-ou willing to go on the same reservation with the Pend
d'Oreilles and Kootenays.' I ask Alexander, are you willing to go on the same
reservation with the Flatheads and Kootenays. I ask Michelle, are you willing
to go on the same reservation with the Flatheads and Pend d'Oreilles.^ What do
you, Victor, Alexander and Michelle, think.' You are the head-chiefs; I want you
to sjicak."
Victor: "I am willing to go 'on om- reservation, but I do not want to go over
yonder " (the Pend d'Oreille country).
Alexander: "It is good for us all to stop in one place."
Michelle: "I am with Alexander."
Governor Stevens : "The Pend d'Oreilles and Kootenays think it well to have
all these tribes together. Perhaps Victor might think so by and by, if the place
suits. Alexander and Michelle wish to live together, their people in one place ;
they have a thousand people, the land ought to be good. Each man wants his
field : the climate ought to be mild.
"1 ask Victor, Alexander and Miclulle to think it over. Will they go to the
valley with Victor, or to the mission with Alexander and Michelle? I do not
care wiiich. You will have your priests with you, whether j-ou go to the mission
or Fort Owen. Those who want the priest can have him. The Great Father
means that every one shall do as he pleases in regard to receiving the instructions
of the priests."
Next day's council brought no change of mind, Victor refusing to move to the
mission, Alexander declining to go to the valley; neither objecting to the other
coming to his place. To overcome this . deadlock, Governor Stevens proposed a
holiday and feast, and used the delay to send for Father Hoecken to investigate
a rumor that the priests were exerting an adverse influence on the negotiations.
Father Hoecken arrived before the conclusion of the council and quickly con-
vinced the governor of the falsity of the rumor. He expressed complete approval
of the treaty, and on its conclusion signed the instrument as one of the witnesses.
Twelve hundred Indians were now encamped on the treaty grounds, and for
their pleasure on the day of the feast two beeves, coffee, sugar, flour and other
provisions were supplied them. After the feast the Indians counseled among
themselves respecting the treaty.
But at next day's council the deadlock seemed as unbroken as ever. Victor
Vol. I— 1 3
194 Sl'OKANK AND THE iM.AND K.Ml'JUE
refused to speak, declarini; that he had not yet made up his mind. At this point
the governor adopted a taunting tone:
"Does \'ietor want to treat?" he asked. "Is he, as one of liis people has
called hiiu, an old woman? Dunii) as a dog. If Victor is a chief, let him speak
now."
To escape Stevens' adroit pressure, Victor aliriiptly left the council and
went to his lodge. The next day lie sent word tliat his mind was not yet made
up, and the governor adjourned tile council to Monday, when Victor, manifestly
to "save his face" before the governor and liis own peo|ili-, brought forward a
com])romise arrangement. He projiosed tli.it the two tracts under consideration
should be c.irefully surveyed and ex.-imined l)y (iovcrnor Stevens, and the one
found best should l)e chosen for tlie reservation.
Alexander and Michelle persisting in their decision the governor cut the Gordian
knot bv accepting Victor'.s plan so far as it concerned him and his people and
giving the others the reservation .-irouiid tlie mission.
"My children (he said) Victor h;is made liis pro|)Osition. Alexander and Midl-
elle have made theirs. We will make a treaty for them. Hotli tracts shall be
surveved. If tlu- mission is the liest land, \'ietor sliall live there. If the valley
is tile best land, X'ictor sliall stay there. .Mex.uider ,uiil Michelle may stay at
the mission."
The thric head-chiefs then signed the treaties, but Moses, a sub-chief of tlie
Flatlieads. would not sign.
"Mv brother is buri<-d here." lie protested. "1 (lid not think you would take
the only ))iece of ground 1 had. Here are three fellows (the head-chiefs) ; they
say, "Get on your horses and go.' Last year when you were t.ilkiiig about tlu' Black-
feet you were joking."
Governor Stevens: "Ilow can Moses s;iy. 1 .iiii not going to the 151aekfoot
countrv? 1 liave gone all the way to the Great I'.-ither to arrange about the Ulack-
foot council. \\'h.it more e.in I do? .\ man is coming from the Great I'ather to
meet me. Does Moses not know tli.it Mr. Hurr .iiid anotlirr man went to I'ort
Benton the other day?"
With fine imagery Moses rejoined: "You li.ive |)ulled .ill my wings otf .uid then
let me down."
(iovcrnor Stevens: ".Ml tli.-it we li.ivi- done is for your luiKtit. I h;ive s;iid
th.at tile Flathcads were brave .ind honest .iiid should be jiroti cted. Bi- ))atient.
Everything will come rigiit. "
Moses: "1 do not know how it will be str;iiglit. .\ few d.-iys .igo the I51;iek-
ffcet stole horses at S.ilmon river. "
Governor Stevens, to the interpreter: ".\sk liiin it he s< es the Nez Perce
cliief Eagle- from-the-Light ; he is going to the lU.ickfoot couiieil with me."
Moses: "Yes, I see him; they will get his hair. The Hl.iekfeit .ire not like
these iieojilc; they are all drunk."
When the infliienital men had signed. Governor Stevens said:
"Here are three p.ipers which you li.ive signed, copies of the same treaty. One
goes to the Presi(hnt. one I ])lace in the hands of the head-chief, and one I kec))
myself. Everything that has been said here goes to the President. I have now a
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 195
few presents for you. They are simi)ly a gift, no part of the payments. The pay-
ments can not be made until we hear from the President next year."
After a council protracted for eight days, success crowned the governor's labors.
"Every man pleased and every man satisfied," as he expressed it.
This reservation, which was opened to white settlement in 1909, embraced 1,250,-
000 acres. The treaty carried $8i,000 in annuity goods, $36,000 to improve the res-
ervation ; salaries of $500 a year for twenty years, with a house and ten acres fenced
and ploughed, to the three head-chiefs ; schools, mills, hospitals, shops ; teachers and
mechanics for twenty years; the right to fish, hunt, gather roots and berries, and
pasture stock on vacant land outside the reservation. The three tribes were to con-
stitute one nation, under the head chieftainship of Victor, to be called the Flathead
nation. Father Hoecken, R. H. Lansdale. W. H. Trappan, R. H. Crosby and Will-
iam Craig witnessed the treaty. About 20,000 square miles were ceded. The treaty
grounds were adjacent to the present thriving and progressive city of Missoula.
"This is not the place," says Governor Stevens in his narrative of 1855, "to go
into the details of the Flathead treaty." With calm confidence in the judgment of
history and the unbiased verdict of posterity, the governor adds: "I trust the time
will come when my treaty operations of 1855 — the most extensive operations ever
undertaken and carried out in these latter days of our history — I repeat, I trust the
time will come when I shall be able to vindicate them, and show that they were wise
and proper, and that they accomplished a great end. They have been very much
criticised and very much abused ; but I have always felt that history will do these
operations justice. I have not been impatient as to time, but have been willing that
my vindication should come at the end of a term of years. Let short-minded men
denounce and criticise ignorantly and injuriously, and let time show that the gov-
ernment made no mistake in the man whom it placed in the great field of duty as its
commissioner to make treaties wnth the Indian tribes."
CHAPTER XXI
PEACE COUNCIL WITH THE WARLIKE BLACKFEET
couriers summon numerous tribes great council at mouth of the judith
Nebraska's commissioner procrastinates — stevens' opening address — treaty
negotiated after three day conference coats and siedals given to the
chiefs german songs roll across the missouri homeric feast of buffalo
ribs and flapjacks listening to thrilling tales of trapper days.
BREAKING cam]) at tiic conclusion of tlii' I'latlitad council. Governor Stevens
and party hastened eastward for tlie ifreat piaee coinicil with the Blackfeet.
Fort Benton, head of navigation on th<- .Missouri, was the apjKiinted rendez-
vous, where his jiarty were to meet Colonel Alfred {'unnning. Indian superintendent
for Nebraska territory, wlio had been designated hy tile government as the other
commissioner to negotiate this treaty. Under ])!ans carefully worked out hy Stev-
ens. Cumniiiig was to ascend the Missouri by steamboat, bringing with him the neces-
sary goods and |n-ovisions for the council ; but Cumming, who was amazingly pom-
pous, i>etulant .and inefficient, had ]3roceeded so dil.itorily that he himself at one
time despaired of getting on the ground tli.it season, and projxised that the govern-
ment post])()ne the council to tile following year.
Officials at Washington realized that this course would never do; that Governor
Stevens, with gre.-it difficulty, having notifi<'d numerous tribes and bands ranging over
a vast extent of country, (hat the council would ln' held late in the summer of ISS.*),
failure to carry out these arr.mgements would be t.aken by the Indians ,is .i mani-
festation of broken faith; the council must be held. C'unnning was thereupon admon-
ished to go forward with the original ))lans, but his disregard of Governor Stevens'
recommendations involved him in additional delays, and when Stevens .and party ar-
rived at Benton, they met the disa|i]iointing news that Cumming and all the goods
and ))rovisions were f.ir down the Missouri; that (he Nebraska official liad Jirema-
turely unloaded the steamer, and was trying (o cordellr (be freight u|) the swift
current of the upper Missouri in small boats.
Stevens sent out couriers in all directions. ail\ ising the v;irious b.-uids lh;it the
council could not be held at the designated date, and .asking them to hold their peo-
))lc in readiness for a Liter smnmoiis. Chafing under these delays and dis.-ipjioint-
ments, foreseeing th.it llu Indians could not be held indefinitely as they must shift
their cam])s.with the err.itie movements of the buff.ilo, .and were in danger of iiass-
ing beyond call, the governor decided to change the council ground from Fort
Benton to the mouth of the .hiditli. farther down the Missouri, and thus elimin.ate
197
198 SI'OKANK AM) IIII, IM.AM) I.MIMin-.
the delay involved in cordelling the merchandise and provisions over that long and
difficult reach of the river.
"Had the goods arrived at any time during this waiting period," says Hazard
Stevens, "not less than 12,000 Indians would have attended the council, comprising
10,000 Blackfeet, 1,100 Nez Perces, 700 Flatheads and Pend d'Oreillcs and 400
Snakes, the western Indians numbering 2,200." When the council finalh- assembled,
October 16, only 3,500 IndLins were in attendance. The double purjjose of the pro-
posed treaty was to establish an enduring peace between the Blackfeet and the
tribes living west of them, and Wcate the former upon a reservation. In his opening
speech the governor said :
".My children, my heart is glad today. I see Indians east of the mountains and
Indians west of the mountains sitting here as friends — Bloods, Blackfeet, Piegans,
Gros ^'entres; and Xez Perces, Kootenays, Pend d'Oreillcs, Flatheads ; and we have
the Cree chief sitting down here from the north and east, and Snakes farther from
the west. There is peace now here between you all present. We want peace also
witli absent tribes, with the Crees and Assiniboines, with the Snakes, and yes, even
with the Crows. You have all sent your message to the Crows, telling them you
would meet them in friendship here. The Crows were far, and could not be present,
but we expect you to promise to be friends with the Crows.
"I shall say nothing about peace with the white man. No white man enters a
Blaekfoot or a western Indian's lodge without being treated to the very best. Peace
alread}' prevails. We trust such will continue to be the case forever. We have been
traveling over your whole country, both to the east and west of the mountains, in
small parties, ranging away north to Bow river, and south to the Yellowstone. We
have kept no guard. We have not tied up our horses. All has been safe. There-
fore I say, peace has been, is now and will eontiiuie, between these Indians and the
white man."
The treaty was thiii read, tin- governor explaining its terms, sentence by sen-
tence. Speeches by all the chiefs followed, extolling the advantages of peace and
manifesting the best of feeling. On the third day the treaty was negotiated and
signed by .ill the attending chiefs and head men. Three days more were given up to
the distribution of presents, including coats and medals to the chiefs, with appro-
priate speeches by the two commissioners, exhorting them to respect their pledges
to the Great Father and control their young braves in the interest of enduring |)eaee.
The personnel of the officers w;is: Is;iae I. Stevens and .Mfred Cununiiig. commis-
sioners; James Doty, secretary; Tlioni.is .Adams and .V. ,1. N'aiigbn, reporters. The
inter]jreters were: James Bird, A. Culbertson and M. Roche for the Blackfeet;
Benjamin Kistr and G. .Sehon, for Uu I'l.itiu-.uls ; ^^'illiam Craig and Delaware .lim,
for the Nez Perces.
"The treaty was inueli iimrr lli.in a treaty of peace as far as the Blackfeet were
concerned," conimcnts Hazard .'Stevens, "for it gave them schools, farms, agricul-
tural implements, etc., an .•igciil, and annuities of .f.S^.OOO for ten years, of wliieh
$1;"),000 was devoted to educating them in agriculture and to teaching the children.
It contained the usual provision prohibiting intoxicating liquor. The extensive re-
gion between the Missouri and the Yellowstone was made the common hunting
ground of all the tribes. .Ml agreed to maintain peace with each other, including
those tribes that were unable to lie ))r(Stnl, the Crows, Crees, Assiniboines and
SPOKANE AND THE IXLAXD EMPIRE 199
Snakes. The treaty was made obligatory on the Indians from their signing it, and
on the United States from its ratification, which occurred the next spring, and it
was duly proclaimed by the president on April 25, 1856.
"The peace made at this council was observed with gratifying fidelity in the
main. The Blackfeet ceased their incessant and bloody raids, and met tlieir former
enemies on friendly terms upon the common hunting grounds. Within a few years,
in 1862-63, large white settlements sprang up on the headwaters of the Missouri,
but they were spared the horrors and sufferings of Indian warfare with so powerful
a tribe, largely in consequence of this treaty. The council, which Governor Stevens
planned and carried out with such foresight, sagacity and indefatigable exertions
during two years, bore fruit at last in the perpetual peace he hoped for and pre-
dicted. Few treaties with Indians have been so well observed by them as this by
the 'bloodthirsty' Blackfeet. They took no part in the great Sioux wars, nor in the
outbreak of Joseph. They were afterwards gathered together on a large reserva-
tion, including the country about the Sun river, where the governor proposed to es-
tablish their farms."
A pleasing description of the council ground has been recorded by the same
author, who, as a boy of 13 accompanied his father and witnessed the savage and
barbaric council. It was "a wide, level plain, covered with a noble grove of huge
cottonwoods. It was on the left bank of the Missouri, nearly opposite but below the
mouth of the Judith. This stream was also bordered by broad bottoms, which were
cohered wih large sage-brush, and fairly swarming with deer. The governor's
camp was pitched under the lofty cottonwoods, and lower down was the camp of the
crew of men who had dragged the boats up the river. They were a hundred strong,
mostly Germans, having many fine voices among them, and were fond of spending
the evenings in singing. The effect of their grand choruses, pealing forth over the
river and resounding among the lofty trees, was magnificent.
"In the governor's camp an unusually large Indian lodge — a great cone of poles
covered with dressed and smoke-stained buffalo skins — was erected and used as an
office tent, where the records were copied and smaller conferences held. Every
night between eleven and twelve, when the work of the day was concluded, the
governor would call in the gentlemen of the party, a few chiefs, and some of the in-
terpreters, and have a real Homeric feast of buft'alo ribs, flapjacks with melted
sugar, and hot cott'ee. Whole sides of ribs would be brought in, smoking hot from
the fire, and ])asspd around, and each guest would cut off a rib for himself with his
hunting knife, and sit there holding the huge dainty, three feet long, and tearing off
the juicy and delicious meat with teeth and knife, principally the former. No
description can convey an idea of the hearty zest and relish and enjoyment, or the
keen appetiites, with which they met at these Iiospitable repasts, and recounted the
varied adventures and experiences of their recent trips, or listened as Craig, Dela-
ware Jim, or Ben Kiser related some thrilling tale of trapper days, or desperate
fight with Indian or grizzly bear."
A far cry this may seem from the night-lighted streets of Spokane, with their
flaring electric signs, swift-passing automobiles, and pleasure-seeking throngs; but
these nomadic scenes in Walla Walla vale, and by Missoula's flowing waters, and on
the distant plains where mingle the Judith and the Missouri, required their setting
and their shifting, seven and fifty years ago, else liad tliere been no ])eace with In-
200 SPOKAXK AND 11 IK I\l AM) F.MPIRE
dian tribes, no settlement by daring and ad\ cntiirinis pioneers, no turning of the soil
to farm and gardtn, or filling of the forest nioiiarclis; no rocking out of millions in
placer gold or delving deep for hidden treasures of mineral vein and chamber. And
without these antedating achievements, where now could be the beautiful, the sub-
stantial empress city of the Inland Empire?
CHAPTER XXII
TRIBES OF INTERIOR TAKE TO THE WARPATH
NEWS TO SHAKE THE STOUTEST HEART GOVERNOR CUT OFF FROM OLVMPIA PEAR-
SON 's DESPERATE RIDE THROUGH HOSTILE COUNTRY STEVENS ADVISED TO DESCEND
THE MISSOURI AND RETURN BY SEA REJECTS THAT COUNSEL AND BOLDLY RETURNS
BY DIRECT ROUTE CROSSES BITTER ROOTS IN THREE FEET OF SNOW STARTLES
INDIANS BY SUDDEN APPEARANCE IN COEUR d'aLENES FORCED MARCH TO THE
SPOKANE MEETS MINERS FROM COLVILLE COUNTRY STORMY COUNCIL WITH SPO-
KANES GARRY VACILLATES STEVENS BLAMED FOR YAKIMAS OUTBREAK SPOKANES
CONCILIATED "sPOKANE INVINCIBLES" ORGANIZED AS MILITIA COMPANY NEZ
PERCES GIVE GOVERNOR AN ARMED ESCORT HOSTILES ROUTED BY OREGON VOLUN-
TEERS STEVENS RETURNS SAFELY TO OLYMPIA.
"It is vain for the coward to flee; deatli follows close behind; it is only by defy-
ing it that the brave escape." — J'oltaire.
IX BUOYANT spirits, witli no premonition of impending peril. Governor
Stevens and party left the ]51ackfoot council ground. "Everything had suc-
ceeded to our entire satisfaction, and. indeed, beyond our most sanguine expecta-
tions," the governor reported. "The greatest delight and good will seemed to per-
vade the minds of all the Indians, and we left them at the mouth of the Judith on
our way to Fort Benton, and proceeded thence to the waters of the Pacific, rejoiced
that our labors had had such a consummation."
Packing up. the little party of twenty-four faced westward on October 2i, reached
Fort Benton the next day, and after a two day pause there, preparing for the long
homeward journey, left Benton October 28. On the evening of the twenty-ninth,
while in camp on the Teton, the evening meal dispatched and the men assembled
around the campfire, a horseman was seen a])proaching in the gathering twilight. It
was the daring express rider, W. H. Pearson, bearing news calculated to shake the
stoutest heart. He had ridden desperately and long, and as his exhausted mount
staggered into the firelight, it was seen, from Pearson's wild, emaciated and haggard
appearance, that he had passed through some ordeal of a trying nature. Eager arms
lifted him from the saddle, friendly hands ministered to the fainting man with
warmth and food ; and he then delivered his dispatches and a made a report tliat, for
a moment, struck consternation to that little band on desert plains a thousand miles
from home.
"The great tribes of the upper Columbia country, the Cayuses, Yakimas, Walla
201
202 SPOKANK AM) Tlli. INLAND KMI'llii:
Wallas, [■|iiatillas, I'alduscs anil all llic ()ri;;iiii liaiids (Idwii to Tlu- l);iilfs, tlit- very
ones wliii liad siiiiiid till- Iriatics at tlic Walla Walla council and Jirofessed such
friciidslii|), had all linikcn out in open war, " says Stevens' l)iogra])lier. "Tiiey had
swept the upper country clean of whites, killinjr all the settlers and miners found
there, and niiirdrred Aiiint Holon under eireuinstances of peculiar atrocity. Major
Haller, sent into the Vakinia country with a hundred regulars and a how-
itzer, had hecn defeated and forced to retreat hy Kaniiaken's warriors, with the
loss oi a third nl' his I'orca- and his canMon. The Indians west of tlii' Cascades
.lad also risen sinniltani-ously, and laid waste the settlements on I'upet Sound and
,n Oregon, showing that a widespread eons))iracy |)re\aile(l. The Spokanes and
Coeur d'AIcnes were hostile, or soon would lufoiue hostile under the spur and taunts
jf the young Cayusi' and Yakima warriors sent among them to stir them u]),
and even some of the Nez Perces were disaffected. A thousand well armed and
brave hostiU- w.irriors under K.imi;d<en, l'u-))u-mox-moN, Young Chief .and Five
Crows, were gathered in the Walla W.all.-i valley, waiting to 'wipe out" the Jiarty
on its return; S(iu.ids of young hraves were visiting the N'ez Perces, Sjiokanes and
Coeur d'Alenes, v.iuuting their \ietories, displaying fresh gory sc.ilps, .and using
every effort to e.-ijole or force them into hostility to the whites.
"The daring expressman's story of how he ran the gantlet of the hostile tribes
with the dispatches and information u|ion uhieh depended the lives of the ]);irty,
heightened the im))ression made hy his wretched ap))e.iraiice .md dolefid tidings.''
He h.id left The Dalles on his return trip, fresh and well mounted, .and riding
all d.iy ,iud night, ri lelied Hilly MeK.ay's r.anch ou tlu- I'matilla at d.iylighl. The
pl.ice was deserted. L.issoing a fresh mount, he s.iw a hand of hostiles, racing
down the hills tow.-irds the valley, and as he sprang into the saddle, they gave
fierce yells .and cries of "Kill the white m.an ! Kill the white ni.an ! " Thev ))ur-
sued iiim for many miles, hut he slowly drew away, aiul ,it nightfall turiud off
the trail at right angles, rode for several miles, and then took a course parallel
with the regiil.ar route. Uidiug in this str.itegic m.ainier, resting ;i few hours in
secluded covert, and seeking unusual fords, he reached I,.i|)w.ii, .and .after a day's
rest, pushed on over tlu- IJitter Root mount.iins. A blinding snowstorm beset him,
a tree fell and crushed his Nez Perce comjianion, and the trail was buried under
several feet of new-fallen snow, I'n.ilih' to travi'l furtluT on horse b.iek. Pear-
son imjirovised snowshoes, cutting the fr.iuies with his knife, .lud we.iving the
wells with strands of liis rawhide l.iri.it ; .and ])acking blankets .and .1 little dried
uie.it Upon his b.aek. pushed omi- the snow buried heights, and after four d.ays of
this desperate travel, descended into the Bitter Root v.illcy, near Fort Owen, where
rest, a fresh mount and friendly greetings awaited him. Three days more, and he
w.as in .Sli'vens' e.iuip on the Teton.
"He brought me letters from ollieial sources (so runs the governor's r<cord),
stating that my only chance of safety was to go down the Missouri and return to
the western coast by the way of New Y'ork ;" but the governor's "determination
was fixed .and un.ilti r.able th.it .in .itteui])t should be made to reach the settlements
by the direct route, and th.at .all d.angers on the road should be sternly confronted."
Secret.arv Dotv was sent back to I'ort Henton for .1 Large quantity of powder and
ball, .addilion.al .arms .and aihlitioiial .aniiu.ils. .iiid these procured, the governor
SPOKANE AND THE IXLAXD EMPIRE 203
dtcidtd to Iiasttn homeward at express speed. Pushing on to Hellgate, he pur-
chased every good mule and horse that he could get in the valley.
"The question was. what should be our route home," says Stevens. "It was im-
portant, it seemed to mc. to our success, that we should be able to cross the moun-
tains and throw ourselves into the nearest tribes, without their having the slightest
notice of our coming. I felt a strong assurance that if I could bring this about. I
could handle enough tribes and conciliate the friendship of enough Indians to be
sufficiently strong to defy the rest. There would certainly be no difficulty from the
snow down Clark's fork (and through the Spokane valley), but it was known that
the Upper and Lower Pend d'Oreille Indians were along the road, and no party
could travel over it without its approach being communicated to the Indians ;
whereas Indian report had it that the Coeur d'Alene pass was blocked up with snow
at this season of the year, and I felt satisfied that they would not expect us on this
route, and therefore I determined to move over it. It was the shorter route of
the two ; it was a route where I desired to make additional examinations ; it was a
route which enabled me to creep up, as it were, to the first Indian tribe, and then,
moving ra})idly, to jump upon them without their having time for preparation. I
knew that Kamiaken and Pu-pu-mox-mox had sent a body of warriors to cut off
my party; and that we had to guard against falling into an ambusii. but an Indian
has not patience to wait many days for such a purpose, and I thought, looking to
all these things, that the line of safety was to move over the Coeur d'Alene pass."
Notwithstanding the members of the party, almost without exception, looked
upon this plan as most desperate, still they maintained a cheerful spirit, obeyed
every order with alacrity, "and enjoyed themselves very much in the evening
camp."
In three feet of snow they crossed the Bitter Root mountains November 20,
and moving down the headwaters of the Coeur d'Alene river the follo^ving day,
came to good grass, with fine water, affording excellent range for the exhausted
animals. Here a day was taken for needed recuperation. "From the appearance
of all that surrounded us," reported Stevens, "I was satisfied that there were no
Indian runners on the lookout for us."
When within twenty-five miles of the Catholic mission, the governor, deeming
it impracticable to take the whole train in in one day without breaking down the
horses, took Pearson, Craig and four Ncz Perces. and starting at daylight, pushed
rapidly into the mission, "throwing ourselves into the midst of the Indians, and,
with our rifies in one hand, and our arms outstretched on the other side, we ten-
dered to them both the sword and the olive branch. They met us very cordially,"
savs the governor's narrative,* "every Indian left his lodge and gathered around us. I
had told the four Nez Perces, 'When you reach the Coeur d'Alenes, talk to them
Blackfoot; tell them about our great council and treaty at Fort Benton: tell them
that they can hunt buffalo without being disturbed by their hereditary enemies,
the Blackfeet ; tell them that the lion and the lamb have lain down together ; get
their minds off their troubles here, and turn them to other subjects in which they
take an interest.' It is enough for me to say that we established the most cordial
relations with the Coeur d'Alenes. We found that the emissaries of the Yakimas
* By the Indians Stevens was called the Hyas Tyee Skookum Tum-Tum, the "Big Chief
with the Strong Heart."
204 SPOKANE AND Till. I M.AM) l.Ml'lHl.
Iiad only Icit tii.il |)()iiit sonic fonr or ti\f d.iys. h.ninjr dcspaircil of our iTossing
tile mountains."
The train arri^d tin m xt day. .md Sttvens deterniint-d to ])ii.sli on to the Spo-
kane river, having sent forward from the mission Craig and .i ]),irt of the Xcz
Perces, to bring a large delegation of the latter tribe into the lirojjosed couneil with
the Spokanes, and to arrange for a friendly Xen Perce escort through the hostile
country and on to the military j)ost at The Dalle.s.
"Moving from the Coeur d'Alene mission on the '27th day of November," con-
tinues the narrative, "I made our first e.imp at the Wolf's lodge, some nineteen
miles from it, and the next d.iy made .i forei-d in.ireli. moving forty miles to the
SjJokane country. W'v met Pol.itkiii, oiu- of tin ]irituip.il eliiefs of tlu .S|)okanes, on
our way. .md were .it Antoiiie I'l.mt's !» fore d.irk."
This .\ntoiiie Plant, the re.idcr will rce.ill. h;id ser\ ed .is guide between the
Spokane country ,ind the J51,iekfoot treaty grounds. He was a French Canadian,
with one-fourth JMackfoot blood in his veins, but cherished a cordial hatred for his
mother's -tribe, and when (iovernor Stevens .sought his services as a guide, had
eagerly laid aside the pleasures of his peaceful life on the Spokane, and his eye
kindled at the prospect of going once more into the land of the warlike and pred-
atory Blackfeet, where, in his more yoiillifiil d.iys. lie had taken part in numerous bat-
tles. Antoine kept a small tr.-iding jiost .-it a ford on the S|)ok.iiii- river below
the site that afterwards became historic .is Cowley's bridge. When on the march he
had a cheery li.ibit of rousing the enc.uiipiiieiit ,it daybre.ik with .1 w.irwhoop. He
had been a voi/ac/cur under the regime of llu' Hud.son's Bay company, but having
retired from that service, had s.ttled down to ,1 semi-sav.ige life in the i)Ie,is;int
v.ilK y of the Spokane.
Hen- the governor found .-i number of miners from the Colville country. Stevens
never neglected to strike when thi' iron was hot. Before midnight he had Indian
messengers on the tr.-iils. to tin l.owc r SjMjkanes. to the Colville Indians, and thence
on to the Ok.inog.ans. and to tlu- Lower Pend d'Oreillcs, asking them to meet him in
council. Angus McDonald, in eli.irHc of the Hudson's Bay post at Colville. .-md
the Jesuit fathers from the luission tluri-. were .ilso iinited to visit him In his <;nii|).
"We remained on the .S|)ok;iiie nine d.iys," s.iys the governor, ".iiicl I li.id there one
of the most stormy councils for three- d.-iys tli.-it ever occurred in my wlioli- Indi.-iii
experience; yi-t h.-iving gone then- with tin- most .-mxioiis di-sin- to pnveiit their
i-ntering into the war. but with .1 firm determin.-ition to tell tlii-m (ilainly and can-
didly the truth. I succeeded both in conviiieiiig them of the f.-icts ,-ind gaining their
entire confidence. At this council were .-ill the chiefs and ))eo))le of the Coeur
d'Alenes and the S))okanes — the very tribes who defeated .Ste|)toe the pjist season,
the very tribes who have met our Iroojis sinei- in two ])iteli(-d hittles; and I feel that
I can. without impropriety refi-r to the sueei-ss of loy l.-ibors ;iiii(iiig these Indi.-ins.
haeki-d up siinjily with a little p.irty of twi-nty-four iiu 11. When our couneil w.-is
.-idjoiiriii-d. the Indi.-iiis '^:nr tin- In si lest of their frieiidshii) and affection, b\- (-.-leli
0111- (-oiiiiiin to l.-iy befon- uii- his little wrongs and ask redress. Thev come in .1
body ;ind offered mi- .1 fnn-e to lul)) me through tin- hostilities of A\':ill.i W.-ill.i \.il
ley and on tin- banks of the Columbi.i. which 1 dci-lined. saying th.-il I e.-iiuc not
among the .S))okancs for their .-lid. but to prolci-l tln-iii .-is their father."
CJarry and .-i p;irty of Coi-iir d. Mi 11c- i-hiefs .-mil iMtliniit i.-il 1111 11 arrived .it tin-
i,(i(iKi\(; (;lass
W.il Clncf of tlic Xrz Ten
IT I'C MdX .\I()X. (Il;
VKLI.dW SKUrKNT
7To;i(l Chief nf the \V;ilhi Wallas
iiW III
A Chiff nf the VakiiiKi
TIIK VorXd CIIIKK
llriiil riiicf ,]f tlip Cayiises
THK [>awyi-:r
Head < liief (if tlic Xcz Tcrces
KAMIAKKN
ITeail Chief of the Yakiaias
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 205
council ground November 29. Three days later came McDonald witli the Colville
chiefs, tile missionaries and four white miners. The council was held December 3,
4 and 5, and was marked, says Hazard Stevens, "by disaffected and at times openly
hostile views and expressions and uncertain purposes, on the part of the Indians,
.md steadfast determination to hold tl)eir friendship and restrain them from war,
on the part of the governor. The Spokanes openly sympathized with the hostiles.
Many of their young braves liad joined them. They insisted that no white troops
should enter tlieir country, and urged tlie governor to make peace with the Yakimas,
for the rumor was current tliat the troops had driven them across the Columbia and
into the region claimed by tlie Sjiokanes. They objected to the whites taking up
tlieir land before they had made treaties and sold it, and were much stirred up be-
cause a number of Hudson's Bay company ex-emjaloyes at Colville had staked out
claims, and filed with Judge Yantis the declaratory statements claiming them under
the donation act. Kaniijikens emissaries h.id imbued them with all kinds of false-
lioods concerning the war .ind its e.iuses. and tlie purposes of the whites, particularly
of Governor Stevens, and what he did and said at the Walla Walla council. They
were to be driven by soldiers from their own country, and forced to go on tiie Nez
Perces reservation without ;iny treaty or compensation. They were to be deported
west of the Cascades, ;iiid shipped across seas to an unknown and dre.-idful doom.
Higlily colored iiut imaginary stories of wrong and outrage inflicted upon Indians
were industriously circulated, and e(|u.illy inytliie;il tales of Indian victories and
exploits."
Prior to the o})eniiig of the council, .Stexens learned to distrust the petulant,
treacherous and aged chief Looking filass of the Nez Perces. A half-breed inter-
preter, emj)loyed by tile governor, to keep a close watch on Looking (ilass and
Garry, saw Looking Cilass enter Garry's tent late one night, and creeping u]) to the
lodge, overheard ;i convers.itiou wherein Looking Glass proposed a plot to entrap
the governor and his ))arty on their arrival in the Nez Perce country, and force
him to enlarge the Nez Perce reservation to the area which had been demanded by
I>ooking Glass at the Walla W.illa council when he came theatrically u))()ii the coun-
cil grounds there, after his return from .i long hunting triji beyond the Rocky
mountains, and to dem.iud such additional payments and advantages as would
amount to a stiff ransom.
Stevens met this alarming situation by despatching a messenger to Lapwai, ad-
vising Craig of the proposed conspir.icy and instructing him how to undermine
Looking Glass's hostile influence among the Nez Perces. Garry, unaware that the
governor knew of Looking CJIass's ])roposal. boldly and artfully supported his de-
mands in a speech before the council.
"When I heard of the war (said Garry) I had two hearts, and have had two
hearts ever since. The bad heart was a little larger than the good. Now I am
thinking that if you do not make peace with the Yakimas, war will come into this
country like the waters of the sea. From the time of my first recollection, no blood
has ever been on the hands of my people. Now that I am grown up, I .iin afraid
that we may have the blood of the whites upon our hands.
"I hope that you will make peace on the other side of the Columbia, .and keep
the soldiers from coming here. The Americans and the Yakimas are fighting. I
think they are both equally guilty. If there were many Frenchmen here, niv heart
206 Sl'OKANK AND 'nil. INLAND K.Ml'IRE
would be like fighting. Tliesf Iniicli |)( npU- lurt- li.ivc talkid ton iimcl]. I went to
the Walla Walla eouneil, and when 1 returned I found that all tile Irenelnnen (set-
tlers in the C'olville valley, who were former employes of the fur eompany) had
gotten their land written dnwii on a |)aper. I ask tin in Why are you in sueli a
liurry to have writings for your lands iiou r Wliv don't you wait until a treaty is
made?'
"(iovirnor, these troubles ari on iiiy mind all tile time, .and 1 will not hide tliein.
Wlieii I was at tile Wall.i W all.i eouneil uiy mind was divided. When you first
eomnuneed to speak, you said the Walla ^^'allas, Cayuses and L'niatillas were to move
on to tile Nez Perce reservation and tin- .Spokanes were to move there also. Then
1 thought you spoke had. Then I thought when you s.iid that, that you would strike
the Indians to the lie.irt. After you h.id spoken of these nine different things, as
seliools. and slio])s, ;uid f.ariiis. if you had then ;iski(l tlu- chiefs to mark out .i piece
of land — a pretty large piece — to give you, it would not have struck the Indians
so to the lieart. Your thougiit was good. You see far. But the Indians, heing
dull-lie.aded, e.ui not see far. Now your ehildriii have t.illen. The Indians have
sjjilled their blood, because they have not sense enough to understand you. Those
who killed Pu-pu-mox-mox's son in Cilifornia, they were Americans. Why are
those Aiiurieans .alive now.' \\\\y .are tiny not li.inged.- That is wh.it the Indi.ans
think, that it will be Indians only who are hanged for murder. Now, governor,
here are these young ))eople- my people. I do not know their minds, but if tliey
will listrii to \ou. I shall be very gl.-id. When you t.alk to your soldiers .and tell
them not to cross .Snake river into our country, I sh.iil be glad. "
"Why is the country in dilticulty again?" asked the chief of the Lower Spokanes.
"'I'li.at eomes on account of the sni,illpo\ brought into the country, .and is ;dl the
time on the Indians' heart. They would keej) thinking the whites brought sickness
into the country to kill them. That is what has hurl the hearts of the Y.akimas.
rii.it is uli.it we think h.is brought about this difficulty between the Indi.iiis and the
whiles. I lliiiik. governor, you have talked a little too hard. It is ,as if you had
thrown ;iw,iv .all the Indians. I lie.ard you said at the W.illa Walla council that
we were children, .ind lliat our woiiii ii .and eliildriii and <',atth' should be for you.
and then we thought we would never raise camp .and move where yon wished us to.
We had in our hearts tli.at if you tried to move us off we would die on the land."
Then spoke u|i .Sti lliiii. chief of the Coeur d'Alenes: "We h.ave not yet made
friends. ,V11 the Indi.ans .are not yet your children. When I heard th.it war had
eoinnieneed in the Yakini.i country. I did not belii\( they li.ad done well to com-
nu-nce. I wish vou would sprak .iiid drv the lilood on lli.it l.iiul now. If ymi
would do th.at, then I would Lake you for .a friend. You lia\i iii.iny soldiers, and
I would not like to liav<' them mix .among my |)e()))h-."
Schl.ateal \oierd siniil.ir scntinieiits : "Now the ^'akiin.as h.ave crossed the Colum-
bia, I would not like to h.ave the whites cross to this side. If the whites do not
cross the river the Indi.ans will all be ))lcased. We lia\c not iii.ule friendship yet.
We h.ave not sbaki ii li.inds vit. When we ser th.at the soldiers don't cross the
Colunibi.a we shall believe you take us for your friends. When you stoj) th.at diflfi-
culty — the fighting now going on — we .sli.all believe th.at you intend to adopt us for
your children. Then I will believe that you have taken us for your friends, and
will t.ake vou for mv friend."
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 207
Peter John, a Colville chief: "My heart is very poor, very bad. My heart is of
all nations. I never hide it. My heart is fearful. There are some who have talked
bad. I am always thinking that all would be well. I wish all the whites and
Indians to be friendly; but even if my people should take up arms against the
Americans, I myself would not. I know we can not stop the river from running,
nor the wind from blowing, and I have heard that you whites are the same. We
could not stop you. I only speak to show my heart. I am done."
Snohomish, a chief of the Lower Spokanes, living near the Columbia, said:
"When you went away to the Blackfoot country, and the Yakimas commenced fight-
ing, my heart was broken. Ever since my heart is very small. Ever since I have
been thinking, How will the governor speak to us .^ And yesterday he did speak,
and said to the Indians, 'You must keej) jjeace,' and I have been thinking what God
would say if we should spill blood on our land. I never loved bad Indians, nor
war; I never believed in making war against Americans. I wish tliey would sto])
all tile Indians and whites from fighting. Now I will stoj). I have shown my
lieart."
15ig Star, Sjjokane chief: "The reason that I am talking now is that all the In-
dians did not like what you said at the Walla Walla council. They put all the
blame on you for tile trouble since. The Indians say you are the cause of the war.
My heart is very small towards you. My heart is the same as the others for you.
Ever since I heard tlure was war, I w\as afraid for you. I am afraid you will be
killed. You have not yet made a treaty, and you jjassed us by, and your people
liave commenced coming — the miners — and they will u|)set my land. This spring,
wlu II my people commenced talking about the ammunition, I said, 'My children,
do not listen to my children who wisli to do wrong.' I said to tile Sun chief, 'What
is the reason you are getting into troulile.^ Your fatlier was good; now he is killed
by the Blackfeet.' And this summer, wiien tile governor passed here. I spoke to
him again, and lie would not listen. I left home and went to the Nez Perees. and
there met Mr. [McDonald. After crossing the Columbia river these two young
fellows overtook me. I spoke to Mr. McDonald to give me good advice to help my
children. He did speak, and I thougiit he gave me good help. I was glad. We
had not yet arrived at the fort when tliat young man (a Spokane) rushed on the
wliites and choked them. After McDonald and myself h.id talked to tliem, I thought
they would listen. If I had not tried to make them do right, it would not have
hurt my feelings so mucli. Since that, I am crying all the time."
(^uin-quim-moe-so, a Spokane chief living at Eells and Walker's old mission on
Walker's ])rairie, was outspoken in fi.xing on Governor Stevens the blame for the
Yakima uprising: "When I heard, governor, what you had said at the Walla
Walla ground, I thougiit you had done well. But one thing you said was not right.
You alone arranged tlie Indians' land ; the Indians did not speak. Then you struck
tile Indians to tile heart. You thought they were only Indians. Tliat is why you
did it. I am not a big cliief. but I will not hide my mind. I will not talk low. I
wish you to hear what I am saying. That is the reason, governor; it is all your
fault the Indians are at war. It is your fault, because you have said that the
Cayuses and Walla Wallas will be moved to the Yakima land. Thev who owned
tlie land did not speak, and yet you divided the land."
As the council progressed, Garry assumed a tone of haughty equality and inde-
208 SPOKAXF. AND THK INLAND EMI'IRK
pcudcnce: "When you look at the red men, you think you have more heart, more
sense, tlian these poor Indians. I tliink tile difference between us and you Ameri-
cans is in the clothing: the blood and body are the same. Do you think, because your
mother was white and theirs dark, tlial you ari- hij;liir or better? We are dark,
yet if we cut ourselves, the blood will be rid, and so with the whites it is the same,
though their skin is white. 1 do not think we are poor because we belong to another
nation. If you take those Indians for men, treat them so now. If you talk to the
Indians to make a peace, the Indians will do the same to you. You see now the
Jiidi.ms are j)roud. On account of oni' of your remarks, some of your people have
already fallen to the ground. Tbf Indians arc not satisfied with the land you gave
them. What commenced the troublr was thf iiuirdcr of l'u-pii-nio.\-mox's son (by
miners in California) and Dr. Whitiiiaii. ami now tiny lliid thtir reservations too
Miiall. If all those Indians had niarki-d out their own reservations, tlir trouble
would not have happened. If you could get their reservations made a little larger,
they would be pleased. If I li.id the business to do, I could fix it by giving them ,i
Hull- more land. Talking about land. I am only sjieaking my mind. What I was
saying yesterday about not crossing the soldiers to this side of the Columbia is ray
business. Those Indians have gone to war. and I don't know myself how to fix it
up. That is your business ! Since, governor, the beginning of the world there
has been war. Why can not you manage to keep peace? M.-iybe there will be no
peace ever. I'.viii if you should hang all the bad people, w.ir would begin again,
.and would never stop. "
By ))atient reasoning and convincing denial of the false reports eoneerning his
utterances at the Walla Walla council, the governor dissiiiated, at least for the
time, the growing hostile feelings of the .Spokanes. and when the council was over,
they exjiressed friendly sentiments and willingly exchanged their fresh horses for
the travel-jaded animals of the party, taking for hoot the Indian goods which had
bet n brought up from old Fort Walla U'.illa for the deferred council. They even
g,i\i up sonic of their rifles, needed by .Stevens to arm the miners who had come in
from tlie upper ('olund)i;i river b;irs. .and who were now nuistcri-d in, .along with
the other nicniliers of the ixpedition as the "Spokane Invineililcs." the first militia
coin])aM\- to lie organized and armed in the Iidand Fmpire.
■■\\'iiin I moMil from .Spokam ." reported Stevens. "I had with me the best
train of the season. I reduced tr:ins|)ortation ti twelve d.iys. .and the |)acks to
eighty j)ounds. for I desired to be in a condition il the N'ez I'ercis were really
hostile, and I was not strong enough to light. 1 could m.ike .a good run. .and then I
struck for the N'l z Perces country."
Moving down the valley, on I he .ittcrnooii of I)((<nilier ti. trom the treaty
grounds ,il .\ntoine Plant's ))lace. IIk party ene.am|ied by thi- falls (d' tin' Spokane.
"The second dav." runs .Stevens' n;irrati\e of lS.")."i. "I met an e\|)rcss from Craig's,
ti'lling me thai llu' Ncz Perces weri' all right, .and llial the whole tribi- would b.ack
me up. We moved towards l..ap\vai. and were fo-r d.ays in reaching that point, the
distance being 108 miles. The w.nthcr w.is very disagnc.ibh-. Ixing snowy and
rainy. In about fifty miles from the S))ok;me we got upon our old trail to the Ked
^Volf's ground, which tr.ail w( iollowid lor .about twenty miles, and then keeping to
our left. |i.ass,il to the mouth of the L.i|)W.ii. and thence to William Craig's place
on that str.am . . . -My object not being to give an account of my Indian
BLOCK HOUSE AT UPPER CASCADES
OF THE COLUMBIA
Where General Pliilip Sheridan made his first
war record
, '''f^E N£w V'oRi/
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 209
operations or of the Indian war," says the narrative of 1855 in conclusion, "I will
close my narrative at this point, referring you to my official reports should further
information be desired in connection with this trip. I will state that on mj^ way
into the settlements I remained in the Walla Walla valley some ten days, where I
saw much of the Oregon volunteers. Went to The Dalles, in advance of my party,
witii three men, and, the river being closed by ice, went down from The Dalles to
near Vancouver on the trail, and reached Olympia on the 19th of January."
Notwithstanding winter was well advanced when the governor's party came to
William Craig's hospitable homestead and the ground was well spread with snow,
Chief Lawyer had brought together there 208 lodges, which sheltered more than
2,000 friendly Nez Perces. "An animated council was at once held, " says Hazard
Stevens. "The council lodge was a hundred feet in length, built of poles, mats and
skins, and in this assembled 200 chiefs and principal men. Lawyer presiding. An
ox had been killed, and young men, who officiated for the occasion, roasted or boiled
the meat at fires in the lodge, and handed it around in large pans, from which each
person selected such choice pieces as suited his fancy. The scheme of Looking
Cilass found no adiierent. indeed was not broaciied. and the unanimous resolve was
not only to maintain their friendship to tile whites and stand by their treaty, but
to escort Governor Stevens witii 250 of tbtir bravest and best armed warriors,
stark buffalo hunters and Blackfoot fighters every one, and force tlieir way through
tiic masses of liostile Indians gatliered in tile Walla Walla valley. "
Finding no sup])ort for Iiis treacherous plot, old Looking Glass craftily turned
front and made a virtue of necessity. "I told tlie governor," he said in council,
"tii.-it the Walla Walla country was blocked u]) by bad Indians, and that I would
go ahead and be behind, and that's my heart now. Now that he says he will go, I
will get up and go with hiiu. Now let none of you turn your face from what has
been said. Your old men have spoken, and where is the man who will turn his
back on it."
.\s the council ended an Indian runner came in from the Walla Walla valley with
tiie startling .ind cheering news tiiat a regiment of 500 Oregon volunteers com-
manded by Colonel Kelly, wlio later served as United States senator, liad come up
from tlie Willamette valley into the Walla Walla country, and after four days hard
fighting liad routed the hostiles and driven them out of the valley. The way thus
cleared, Governor Stevens could have dispensed with the tendered escort of the
Nez Perces, but to confirm their fidelity and cement the bond of friendship, he
invited a hundred warriors to go with him as far as the Walla Walla valley.
"It was a clear, briglit. frosty December morning that the mingled cavalcade
of wliite and Indian left beliind tlie hospital lodges of the Nez Perces, and filed
along tlie banks of the Lapwai and Kooskooskia," says Hazard Stevens. "Rarely
has tlie Clearwater reflected a more jiieturcstiue or jovial crew. Here were the
gentlemen of the party, with their black felt liats and heavy cloth overcoats; rough-
clad miners and packers; the mountain-men, witii buckskin shirts and leggings
and fur caps; the long-eared pack-mules, witli their bulky loads; and the blanketed
young braves, with painted visage, and hair adorned with eagle feathers, mounted on
sleek and spirited mustangs, and dashing liitber and thither in the greatest excite-
ment and glee. Each of tlie warriors had three fine, spirited horses, wliich he rode
in turn as the fancy moved liini. Tiiey used buckskin ])ads or wooden saddles cov-
Vol. 1—1 4
210 SI'OKAM, AM) 1111. IM.AMi IMI'IKI-.
crcd witii butfalo, Ijcar or uKuiiitain goat skin. TIk hriillc was a siiiiijle line of
buffalo hair tied around tlie lower jaw of the steed, which yielded implicit ohidience
to this scanty headgear. At a halt the long oiid of the line is flung loosely on the
ground, and the horse is trained to stand witiioul (itliir fastening.
"The demeanor of the young braves on this march was in marked contr.isl to
-the traditional gravity and stoicism of their race. They shouted, laughed, told
stories, cracked jokes, and gave free vent to their native gaiety and high spirits.
Craig, who accompaiii( <1 tlu p.irly, translated these good things as they oecurnd.
to the great amusenunt ot the whites. Crossing a wide, Hat plain covered with tall
rye grass, he related an anecdote of Lawyer, with the reminiscence of which the
young braves seemed particularly tickhd. While yet an obscure young warrior.
Lawyer was traveling over this ground with .-i jLirty of the tribe, including several
of the principal chiefs. It was a cold wiiiltr d.iy. .iiiil a biting gale swe)it uj) the
river, penetiating their clothing and chilling them to the bone. The chiefs sat
down in the shelter of the tall rye grass, and were indulging in a cosy smoke, when
Lawyer fired the prairie far to windward, and in an instant the fiery element in
a long, crackling, bla/.ing line, came sweeping down on tin wings of tlir wind ujjon
the comfort-taking chiefs, and drove them to rush lit It.r skelter into the river for
safety, dropping robes, pipes and everything that might impede their Higbt. For
this audacious prank Lawyer barely escaped a public whipping.
"It was a gala day for the Nez Perces when the party reached the valley, and
W( rt received by the Oregon volunteers with a military parade and a salute of mus-
ketry; ,ind when Governor Stevens dismissed tliitn with presents and thanks and
words of eneour.-igenieiit, they returned home the most devoted and enthusiastic auxi-
liaries that ever marched in behalf of the whites.
. "The valley was reached on the -'Oth. Major Cliinn commanding the volun-
teers, and other officers rode out to meet tlir governor, and. on reaching the vol-
unteer eamji. tlit troops, four liiniilrrd in nunilirr. par.iclrtl and (Ircd .-i volley m
salute as the picturesque eolunui uiarelud i).ist. the fifty sturdy, travel-st.iined whites
in advance, followed by tlu hundred proud .ind (lainiting braves, curveting tlitir
horses and uttering llnir warwhoojis. The volunteers then formed in hollow
square, and the governor addressed them in a brief speech, coni))linienting them on
their energy in pushing forward at that inclement season, and gall.intry in engag-
ing and routing .1 superior force of the eiuiny. .ind tendering the Ih.inks of his
]);irtv for o|)(ning the road."
(iovernor .Sti'Vens ;ind jiarty eagerly lislmcd lo the news of the wintrr eaiu-
paign of the volunteers. Tin cngagenient iiiil luen a severe one. the eonfeder.ited
hostiles resisting firndy for four days, and then falling back in confusion on mis-
taking a distant i)aek-train, descending the slopes of the Blue mountains, for a
reinforcing eohunn of arTned white .soldiers. In the couili.it I'u pu-uiox-inox h.iil
been taken prisoner, and attempting to escapi from his guard, was killed by a
rifle volley. By a singular tragic coincidence, Owhi. .mother leading chief in this
uprising, was to suffer a like fate two years later, while attempting to escape from
Colonil Wright's command.
(ieinr.al ^^'ool . commanding; lln di |i.irtuierit of ihe Cohnnlii.i. had .irrixed al \'.-in-
eouv.r from .S;,n b'ranciseo, luil liad eillier failed or refused to supiiort the \olun-
teers or s.nd relief to (iovernor .Stev.ns. He took the view that the Indians were
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 211
not to blame, and that the war had been instigated by white speculators. "He had
even disbanded two companies of Washington volunteers at Vancouver, after they
had been actually mustered into the United States service," declares Hazard Stevens,
in a spirited defense of his father ; "and a company that had been raised under the
direction of Colonel Frank Shaw, for the express purpose of going to the defense
of the governor, was dismissed by Wool in spite of the remonstrances of its officers
and of Major Rains."
In a succeeding chapter we shall relate the stirring events which followed as a
sequel to the Yakima-Walla Walla outbreak, and deal somewhat with Governor
Stevens' severe arraignment of General Wool before the war department.
CHAPTER XXUI
GOVERNOR STEVENS AN ARDENT INLAND EMPIRE ROOSTER
SENDS OPTIMISTIC REPORTS TO WASHINGTON FORESEES GREAT FUTURE FOR WALLA
WALLA, PALOUSE, YAKIMA, SPOKANE AND OTHER REGIONS REMARKABLE FORECAST
OF country's RESOURCES POINTS OUT VALUE OF LOGGED OFF LANDS REMARKABLE
RIDE BY HIS 13 YEAR OLD SON CHARMED BY WESTERN MONTANA AND IDAHO PAN-
HANDLE PREDICTS DEVELOPMENT OF MANY RICH MINES m'cLELLAN BERATES THE
COUNTRY IS PRAISED BY JEFFERSON DAVIS, WHO WANTS TO DISCOURAGE NORTHERN
DEVELOPMENT.
Tliy voice sounds like .i ]>roi)li<t's word;
And in its hollow tones are heard
Tlie thanks of millions yet to be.
— Fif~ Greene Halleck.
WIll'.X in tile field Governor Stevens took note of climatic conditions, the
soil, timber, water, building materials and other elements bearing on
future settlement of this region. His reports to Washington are clear,
informative, optimistic. He comprehended, as none before him, the country's ])()ten-
tial resources, its mild and invigorating climate, and great ])0ssibilities for settle-
ment and conversion, through the enterprise, courage and industry of our pioneers,
into an empire abounding in )ileasant homes and productive industries.
After jiassing through the Walla Walla country in June, ]85,'5, on his way east-
w.ard to the Blackfoot council, he wrote in his journal: "We left our camp in the
Walla Walla valley at noon, moving over a delightful rolling country, well gr.issed
and arable; and on .June 17 we moved twenty miles over a remarkably fine grazing
and wheat country, and eani))ed on the Pa-at-ta-ha creek, a branch of the Touchet
river. 'I"he following points of today's jourtuy are worthy of attention," adds the
governor, "in order to show that tliis region is not the b.arren desert it has been re]i-
rescnted to be. In six and a half miles we crossed the Smahine creek of tlu- Toueliet,
where there was good running water. In three miles and three (piarters further on
we crossed the Kajjyah creek of the Touchet, near its junction with the latter stream.
There was ))ine in view in the valley of the Toueliet. and the country was verv beau-
tiful and inviting. One mile further, (ui a small fork of the Touchet, several persons
have taken claims in the vicinity. . . The whole country in view was well
adapted to purposes of agriculture and stock-raising."
rnntinuing his description of the eountry. Governor Stevens said: "Leaving
•iv.\
214 SPOKANE AM) IIH. IMAM) K.MPIRE
tile Tukanon, we ascended the bluffs and i)assed over table-land of the same charac-
ter as that of the first ])ortion of our journey, and reached tiie Pa-at-ta-ha tributary
of the Tukanon. This tributary furnishes a large amount of excellent land; its val-
ley, as well as the table-land between it and the adjacent streams, is uniformly fer-
tile, and at tlit' j)rcscnt time covered with the most luxuriant grass. I will here
remark, to guard against misconception, that it must not be inferred, when I speak
of a covmtry as being covered with excellent grass, that it is not an arable coimtry,
for I suppose it will be admitted that all ar;il)le countries ought to furnish grass of
some kind. After traveling up this stream three miles, we came to a rather broad
trail, which, turning oiT from the stream, crosses Snake river, eighteen miles below
the Red Wolf's ground, and leads to the Coeur d'Alene mission and the Spokane
country. . . . The day's journey has been delightful to all the members of my
party, for it passed over a most beautiful prairie countrj^, the whole of it adapted to
agriculture. In the valley of the Tukanon we found a very experienced and kind-
hearted mountaineer, Louis Moragne, who, with his Flathead wife and six children,
had gathered about him all the comforts of a home. His eldest daughter was mar-
ried to a very intelligent American, Henry Chase, a native of m}' own county, in the
good old state of .Massachusetts, and they now propose to locate on the Touchet.
. . . Moragne is the owner of some fifty horses and many cattle. His ))otatoes
were in blossom and his wheat excellent. He had four acres under cultivation. He
succeeded well in raising poultry, of which he had three or four dozen."
Moving northward the governor and his party came to the junction of Alpowah
creek and the Snake, where Red Wolf had "a fine field of corn which promises a
most luxuriant crop." Stevens estimated the amount under cultivation there at
twenty acres, irrigated by the waters of the creek, "and tolerabh' well set out with
fruit trees. I observed," adds the governor, "with great pleasure, that men as well
as women and children, were at work in this field, ploughing and taking care of
their crops. The corn, planted only six weeks since, was about ready to silk out.
From the appearance of the valley of the Alpahwah, I am satisfied that grapes would
be a very profitable crop." Snake river valley vineyards are noted for the excellence
of their products.
"The Ncz Pcrces country," the official report continues, "is exceedingly well
adapted to grazing, and is, for the most part, a fine, arable country. There are very
extensive fields of the camas, and the Indians lay up large stores of that nutritious
and delightful root."
Moving northward into the Palouse country, the party "reached the Uible-land.
. . . And here I was astonished, not simply at the luxuriance of the grass, but
the richness of the soil ; and I will again r(-niind the reader that it does not follow
because the grass is luxuriant that the country is not arable." The governor closed
his journal that day by another expression of astonishment at the luxuriance of the
grass and the richness of the soil. "The whole view presents to the eye a vast bed
of flowers in all their varied beauty. The country is a rolling table-land, and the
soil like that of the prairies of Illinois."
Their next night eneam|innnt was on the right bank of the main Palouse river.
"The whole country to the westward, as far as the eye could reach, was an open
plain, the skies clear, and the atmosphere transparent; I say again, the whole coun-
try was. a))|)arently. exceedingly rich and luMiriant." The governor inti-rrogated
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 215
very closely his packmaster, Higgiiis, in reference to the character of the country
westward, "for he had crossed it on two different lines between our present trail
and that from the mouth of the Palouse ; and lie assured me that the country which
my own eye saw today, and had seen yesterday, was precisely the same country as
that found on the westward lines."
"The narrative of these last four days travel," adds Stevens, "shows how extraor-
dinarily well watered the country is west of the spur of the Bitter Root mountains.
I will state again, having crossed the great plain of the Columbia from the Chema-
kane mission north of the Spokane to the mouth of the Palouse, that the difference
in the character of the country on these two lines is most extraordinary. A large
portion of the country from the Chemakane mission to the mouth of the Palouse is
arable, and generally w^ell grassed. There is no deficiency of wood for camps, yet
occasionally the basaltic formations crop out of the ground, at which points the
country is sterile and uncultivable. But under the spurs of the Bitter Root moun-
tains (the Coeur d'Alenes) the whole country is arable, the soil as rich as the best
])rairies of Minnesota, and every convenience for the house and farm at hand — wa-
ter, wood for fires, and timber for building."
Governor Stevens foresaw, nearly sixty years ago, the agricultural future of the
timber lands of tlie Inland Empire, after they should be logged off. "I paid particu-
lar attention to the forest growth," he remarks, "and I bore in mind our Puget
Sound experience, which had established the fact that the timber lands, as a general
thing, were much superior to the prairie lands. When I first went to the Puget
Sound country in 1853, that fact was not acknowledged; but the popular impression
was that the timber lands were worthless except for the timber. In 1855 there had
been experience of crops on timber lands, which established conclusively the fact
that they were our most valuable lands for agricultural purposes."
Commenting on the ease of travel in the interior, the governor wrote: "^ly son
Hazard. 13 years of age, had accompanied me from Olympia to the waters of the
Missouri. Like all youths of that age, he was always ready for the s.-iddle and
delighted in the hunt, and had spent some days witli one of my hunting jiarties on
the Judith, where he had become well acquainted with the Gros Ventres. When we
determined to change the council from Fort Benton to the mouth of the Judith, I
undertook, in the name of the commission, the duty of seeing the necessary messages
sent to the various bands and tribes, and to bring them all to the mouth of the
Judith at the proper moment. These Indians were scattered from Milk river, near
Hammell's Houses, along tlie Marais, along the Teton, to a considerable distance
south of tile Missouri, the Flatheads being on the Judith, and the Upper Pend
d'Oreilles on Smith's fork of the Missouri, witli two bands of the Blackfeet lying
somewhat intermediate, but in the vicinity of the Girdle mountains. I succeeded
in securing tlie services of a fit and reliable man for each one of these bands and
tribes, except the Gros Ventres, camped on Milk river. There were several men
who had had considerable experience among Indians and in voyaging who desired to
go, but I had not confidence in them, and accordingly, at 10 o'clock on Sunday morn-
ing, I started my little son as a messenger to the Gros Ventres. Accompanied by
tlie interpreter Legare, he made that Gros Ventres camp before dark, a distance of
seventy-five miles, and gave his message the same evening to the chiefs, and without
216 SPOKANK AND THK INLAND KMI'IRF.
cli.iiiging horses tliiy were in the saddle tarly in tin nnrrning. aiui reached my camp
at half past three o'clock.
"Thus a youth of thirteen traveled 1")() measured miles from HI o'clock one day to
half past three o'clock in tlie afternoon of the next; and lie came in so fresh that he
could have traveled, without fatigue, at least thirty miles further that evening. The
Gros Ventres made tlieir marches exactly as I had desired, and reached the new
council ground at the mouth of the Judith on the very morning which iiad been
appointed, being the first of all the bands and tribes."
Of western Montana, the country lying between the Uoeky mountains and the
Bitter Roots, Governor Stevens wrote with a far-seeing and prophetic eye. Of the
whole area of this beautiful region, some ;iO,000 square miles, he estimated that
I'J.OOO square miles would be brought under cultivation. "The country in the forks
of the Flathead and the Bitter Root, stretching away east above the Blackfoot can-
yon, is mostly a table-land, well watered and arable; and on all these tributaries —
the Bitter Root, the Hcllgate, the Big Blackfoot, the .locko. the Maple river, the
Hot Spring river, and the Lou-Lou fork itself — the timber land will be found un-
(luestionably better than the prairie land. It will not be in t!i( immediate bottom
or valley of the river where farmers will find tluir best locations. Init on the smaller
tributaries some few miles above their junction with the main stre.-ims. The traveler
])assing up these rivers, and seeing a little tributary breaking out in the valley, will,
in going up it, invariably come into an open and beautiful country. The observer
who has passed tlirough this country often; who has had intelligent men who have
lived in it long; wlio understands intercourse with the Indians, and knows how to
verify information which they give him, will be astonished at the conclusions which
he will reach in regard to the agricultural advantages of this country : and it will not
be many years before the jirogress of settlements will establish its superioritv as an
agricultural region. "
.Mthough his scat of government was at Olymjiia. Stevens seemed never to weary
in his entluisiastic jiroelainiing of the beauties, the resources and the favorable cli-
m.ite of the interior of his vast territory. Its \erdant and flower-pied ])rairies
charmed his senses, and its more open and park-like forests, as contrasted with the
t.angled and somber depths of the Puget Sound region, enlivened his fancy and
kindled his prophetic fires. He was the first influential "booster" of the .S))okane
country. We owe to liis memory an enduring monument, but it should not be erected
until a f\md is gathered surticieiit to insure artistic gi iiius of the highest order. '\'oung
cities that purchase statues preiiiatiireiy arc in darijicr of amassing a collection of
monuments better suited to the cemetery than to |)ulilie parks and open i)laces.
In his volmninous re))ort to the national government, Stevens described, in great
minuteness, the country tra\irse(l by his cx]n'dition. With (|uick eye he iinled its
])olential resources, and with facile |)en ])ortrayed them with a fidelity to l-iet that
seems remarkably ))roj>hetic in the ligiit of subscciuent settlement and devilopmeiit.
"That portion of the great plain lying cast of the main Colunibi.i. and whieh may
he regarded as bounded on the north by the Spokane, and on tiie ( as| hv tile foothills
of the Hitler Hoot mountains," says his rejjort of 18.).'i, "is. for the most i)art. well
w.itered .ind well grassed. The eastern half of this portion is ( xcecdinglv will
;ida|)ted to agricultural purposes. The \arious streams — the Palouse. the Camas
Prairie creek of the Coeur d'Alene (Hangman), the .Spokane .-ind Coeur dWli ni'
o
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THE r*|w yoRK
UBLIC LIBRARY
THE N£v\' YORK
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SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 217
rivers — are well timbered with pine, and numerous rivulets and springs are found
through that portion of the country, facilitating the progress of settlements, and
rendering the whole at once available to the agriculturist. Indeed, the whole of the
western slopes of the Bitter Root mountains are densely timbered with pine, spruce,
larch, cedar and other trees. These spurs have, in most cases, a gradual slope to
the west, and the valleys of the several streams above referred to, as well as the
Clearwater and Clark's fork, are wide and open, including in the lower valley the
immediate, gentle and numerous lateral spurs branching off from the main spurs."
Passing to a description of the Palouse and Big Bend regions, Stevens wrote:
"This country is better supplied with wood than has been generally imagined. If
the voyageur traveling over this country, whatever route he takes, be asked what
sort of country it is, he will tell you an excellent country for traveling — wood, water
and grass everywhere. But the pine of tlie Spokane extends nearly to its moutli,
and for some miles south of the river. The Spokane is the name of the main stream
to its junction with the Coeur d'Alene river, when its name is given to a smaller
tributary coming from the north (the Little Spokane), the Coeur d'Alene being the
main stream.
"One of the most beautiful features of the Coeur d'Alene river and country is
the Coeur d'Alene lake, whicli is embosomed in the midst of gently sloiiing hills, cov-
ered with a dense forest growth; the irregularity of its form, and the changing aspect
of the scenery about it, makes it one of the most picturesque objects in the interior.
"The whole valley of the Coeur d'Alene and Spokane is well adapted to settle-
ment, abounding in timber for buildings and for fires, exceedingly well watered, and
tlie greater portion of the land arable. Even on the main route from Colville to the
nioutli of the Palouse, there is much arable land for thirty miles south of the Spo-
kane. East of this line the whole country may be denominated as cultivable countrv.
"North of tlie Great Plain, that is, from the Spokane to the forty-ninth parallel
east of the main Columbia, the country for the most part is densely wooded, altliough
many valleys and open places occur, some of tliem now occupied by settlers, and all
])resenting advantages for settlement. Down Clark's fork itself (the Pend d'Oreille)
there are open patches of land of considerable size, and so on the Kootenay river.
North of the Spokane is a large prairie, known as the Coeur d'Alene jjrairie (the
Spokane valley) througli which the trail passes from Walla Walla to Lake Pend
d'Oreille. . . . From Fort Colville to where the Columbia bends suddenly to the
west there is a good deal of excellent land. It will be safe to pronounce the wliole
country north of the Spokane, and lying between the main Columbia and the Koote-
nay and the Coeur d'Alene mountains as a cultivable country, althougli the dense
forests will be an obstacle in the way of rapid occupation of the country.
"But here comes in another element of wealth: Tlie country about Colville and
on Clark's fork lias been pretty thoroughly prospected for gold, and it exists in
])aying quantities throughout that region. On the Kootenay river are found mines of
lead, copper, quicksilver, sulphur and platinum; and tliere can be no question, from
information derived from practical miners, from geological explorers, and especially
from the testimony of the Jesuit fatliers, DeSmet, Hoecken and Ravalli, that this is
a countrj' very rich in minerals."
Of tlie country lying between the Columbia and the Cascade mountains, including
the valleys of the Yakima, the Wenatchee or Pisquouse. the Entiat, Chelan, Metliow
218 SI'OKANi: AND ■rilK INI, AM) l.M I'l li K
and Okanogan, Governor Stevens conti inKd lli.it a great iiijiistiee liad been done it
"by a want of patience and consideration on the part of gentlemen who have gone
over it rapidly in the summer, and who have been over it but once. Now the most
intelligent vuya(jeurs and best practieal I'armers in that country agree in opinion
that there is a large quantity of arable land throughout this country, and very
superior grazing. This is the opinion of intelligent Indian chiefs who have them-
selves made some progress in raising crops, and who are already great stock-
raisers."
"On the several trijjutarics of the Yakima, particularly towards their upper
waters, the land is rich and adapted to most of the crops, and so in the valley of
the main Yakima itself. This valley has been denominated by some a desert and sage
plain; sage does not occur in spots and small quantities, but much of the country
is cultivable and productive. It may be observed that in regard to the whole of this
central portion of the Territory, it will be necessary to exercise care as to seed-
time, and farmers will have a disadvantage over those west of the Cascades in their
seedtime being very much shorter; but with ordinary care as to the time of imtting
in seed no danger need be apprehended from droughts.
"This portion of the country is wooded about half wav' from the divide of the
Cascade mountains to the Columbia itself, but you pass up the main Yakima seventy
miles before you reach the building pine, although cottonwood is found on its banks
sufficient for camping ])urposes ; but when you reach the Pisquouse or Wenatshapam,
you come to a wooded region which extends to the main Columbia. The forest
growth of the upper waters of the Clearwater and of the main Columbia from above
the mouth of the Wenatshapam, furnishes inexhaustible supplies, which, after being
rafted down the streams — that is, the Snake and Columbia rivers — will furnish set-
tlements in the vicinity of those rivers with firewood and lumber at moderate rates."
Worthy of observ.-ition, said the governor, was the discovery, by his explorations
of 1853, that gold existed "throughout the whole region between the Cascades and
the main Coluniliia to north of llie boundary, and paying localities have since been
found at several jioints, particularly on the southern tributary of the Wenatsha|)am
(the Wenatche(-). Gold q\iartz also is found on the Natchcss river. The gold-bear-
ing zone, crossing the Columbi.-i and stretching eastward along Clark's fork ami the
Kootenay river, unquestionably extends to the Rocky mountains."
Ill sh.irp contrast to .Stevens' o])timism, Cajitain (ieorge B. ISIcClellan, re])orting
from his camj) at Ketetas, on Yakima river, September 18, IH53, thus describes the
Yakima country: "The last forty-five miles of the trail have been over barren sage
plains, mostly without grass, always without timber, and very stony: in some of the
valleys pretty good bunch-grass is found. The soil of the valleys of the Yakima and
its branches, thoush very limited in extent, is good enough to make tolerable farms,
if irrigated."
This of the orchard soil that has since become world famous. McClellan usu-
ally look a ix-ssimistic view, and his discouraging reports were eagerly s<ized by
.lefl'erson D.avis, then secretary of war, to discredit .Stevens' enthusiastic laud.ition
of the northern routes. Southern slave-holding interests and svinpathizers were
then active .and adroit in their political manipulations to prevent settlement of
northern territories, and at the same time foster the extension of slavery in the vast
unsettled areas of the southwest. In this iiioineiitoiis political struggle they h.id, of
SPOKAXE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 219
course, the able support of Secretary Davis, who exerted his official influence in sup-
port of an extreme southern route that would have for its Pacific terminus the harbor
of San Pedro, near Los Angeles, or that of San Diego, still nearer the Mexican
boundary. In his report to congress. Secretary Davis quotes McClellan, approvingly,
as follows: "I am of tlie opinion that the Yakima pass is barely practicable, and
that only at a high cost of time, labor and money." "The depth of snow upon the
summit of this pass has been much discussed," says Davis's report. "Captain
McClellan, who made the reconnaissance, says that he and his party spared no pains
in inquiring of the Indians during the summer, fall and winter, as to the quantity
and nature of the snow in the mountains during the winter. , . . All the infor-
mation obtained was consistent; and the resulting conclusions, that in ordinary win-
ters there could not be less than from twenty to twenty-five feet of snow in the
passes."
Subsequent railroad construction and operation have shown the wildness of these
superficial guesses. Governor Stevens, who well understood the unreliability of
Indian testimony on this point, as they were opposed, from interest, to the building
of railroads in their country, felt, from the beginning, that McClellan's estimates
were unreliable, and emphatically urged that officer to make a more thorough exam-
ination of the Cascade passes in the winter of 1853-54; but McClellan raised one
difficulty after another, failed altogether to grasp Stevens' argument that winter was
just the time to examine the passes and gather definite, reliable data, and when
another officer. Lieutenant Tinkham, acting under the governor's directions, accom-
plished the very achievement which McClellan had pronounced impracticable, and
at the same time proved the untrustworthiness of McClellan's conclusions, the officer
who was later to command the Union armies on the Potomac resented the governor's
resolute action, and a coldness grew up between them.
Returning to McClellan's report on the Yakima valley, we find him asserting
that while the Indians raised excellent potatoes, "the cold nights (the thermometer
frequently standing below thirty-two degrees at sunrise), and the shortness of the
season, would be great obstacles in the way of cultivation. . . . The Yakima val-
ley below this is wide, often destitute of grass, no timber of any consequence, and a
limited extent of soil that by irrigation could be made moderately productive. On
the trail to The Dalles the country is everywhere stony, barren and worthless. The
valley of the Columbia, near the mouth of tlie Yakima, is a vast sage desert."
CHAPTER XXIV
CONFEDERATED INDIAN WAR OF 1858
WAR FLAMES KINDLED OVER A WIDE AREA CAUSES LEADING UP TO THE OUTBREAK OF
TRIBES NORTH OF SNAKE RIVER YAKIMAS REPUDIATE TREATY AND MURDER THEIR
AOENT STEVENS BITTERLY ASSAILS COMMANDER AT FORT VANCOUVER STEPTOE's
ILL-FATED EXPEDITION HIS CANDID REPORT OF THE DIS\STROUS REPULSE.
How sUt-p the brave wlio sink to rest
By all their countrys wishes blest.
Wlien spring, with dewy fingers cold.
Returns to deck their hallowed mould,
Slie there shall dress a sweeter sod
Than fancy's feet have ever trod.
By fairy hands tlieir knell is rung,
By forms unseen their dirge is sung;
There Honor comes, a pilgrim gray,
To bless the turf tliat wraps their clay:
And Freedom shall awiiile repair.
To dwell a weeping hermit there.
— William Collins.
IT IS a fitting coincidence tii.it the United States government has establislied the
military reservation of Fort George Wriglit on the very scene where that a!)le
soldier, four and fifty years ago, dealt his final crushing blow to tile confed-
erated hostile Indians in the war of 18,')8. By that victory a lasting peace was won,
and this fair wild land made ready for awaiting pioneers. So condign was that
defeat, so stern tlie treaty language of the stout soldier Wright that the spirit of
angry insolence was forever driven from the red warrior's breast, and the Spokanes
and Coeur d'Alenes have ever remained our enduring friends.
If the reader, bent on liistoric search, will follow downward for two miles the
west bank of the Spokane from its confluence with Hangman creek, his eye will
fall on the scene where Wriglit and liis gallant command struck the river after their
memorable running fight of fifteen miles. Retracing his steps a mile, lie will dis-
cover, at a point one mile down stream from Hangman creek, the spot that was
made their night encampment after that strenuous autumn day.
If the reader care to continue his stroll on historic ground, and will seek out a
222 SPOKANE AND THR INLAND EMPIRE
point on the south bank of the Spokane two miles above the main falls, his foot
will press the treaty grounds wiiere the broken and terrified Spokanes, responding to
U right's imperious summons, gatliered in penitence and besought his mercy.
Wright's campaign in the autunui of 1858 followed fast upon the disastrous re-
pulse of Colonel Ste])toe at a point near the present flourishing town of Rosalia in
HDrthern Whitman county. So charged with stirring interest are these events, so
fraught with lasting consequences, that they constitute an essential episode in Spo-
kane's history and that of the whole Inland Empire. Jt is therefore the author's
purpose to devote to them a somewhat extended recital.
The period passing between 1853 and 1858 was signalized by many savage In-
dian uprisings throughout the Pacific northwest. At times within that period the
skies were red with war flames from the Rogue river region of southern Oregon
northward to Puget Sound, and from the western waters to the Rocky mountains.
Some tribes of the interior had, in fact, maintained a constant attitude of haughty
insolence since the Caj'use uprising in 1817 and the massacre, at Whitman mission
near Walla Walla, of Dr. Marcus Whitman, Mrs. Narcissa Whitman and other mem-
bers of their Jiousehold.
Dissatisfaction existed in the minds of some of the interior tribes against cer-
tain treaties which had been negotiated in 1855 bj' Isaac I. Stevens, who bore from
the president of the United States a dual appointment as first governor of Washing-
ton territory and commissioner emjxjwered to treat with all the Indian tribes of the
vast interior from the Missouri to the Pacific. A number of chiefs protested that
Stevens had failed to negotiate with the men who were authorized to bind their
people by treaty obligations, and angrj' protests were made against some of the
conditions of these treaties.
The unrest was further intensified In* a long delay by the senate in its work of
treaty ratification and by a conflict of oflicial opinion regarding the ultimate fate
of the treaties at Washington. Army oflicers in the field were positive that ratifica-
tion and an attempt by the government to enforce the treaties would preeijiitate a
general uprising. Colonel E. J. Steptoe, then commanding at Fort Walla Walla,
entered vigorous protest, declaring in a letter to the assistant adjutant-general at
San l-'rancisco:
"It is my duty to inform the gener.il lh.it Mr. J. Ross Brown, acting, as I believe,
as an agent of the Indian Bureau, did. in a recent conversation ■with "La^vyer" the
Nez Perces chief, assert that (i()\ernor Stevens' treaty of Walla Walla would cer-
tainly he r.itified and enforced. Considering that this statement is in direct opposi-
tion to wii.it tlu Indians have been told by us, and to what, as I believe, nearly all
of them desire, it seems to me in very had taste, to say the least of it. Mr. Brown
could not ))ossibly have known that the treaty will be ratified, and even if he had,
the projjcr time to enlighten the Indians on the subject is obviously after it shall
have become a law of the land. He had no right to unsettle the Indian's minds on
a jioint respecting which his convictions are probably no stronger than the opposite
belief of many others in daily intercourse with them.
"I will sini])ly add that in my opinion any attempt to enforce that treaty wall be
followed by immediate hostilities with most of the tribes in this part of the country;
for which reason it does appear to me greatly desirable that .i new commission be
appointed, and a new treaty made, tlioroiighly digested and accepted by both sides."
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 223
Obviously it did not occur to Steptoe that if Brown erred in telling the Indians
that the treaty would be ratified and enforced, himself and other army officers were
alike at fault when they told the red men that it would not be ratified or enforced.
Brown's rights as a prophet were at least ecpial to tiiose of Steptoe and Clarke,
commanding the department of the Columbia.
Ringleaders in this sorry business of repudiating treaties were the Yakimas.
They had met Governor Stevens in the summer of 1855, entered into treaty relations
and accepted agency rule, only, a few months later, to go on the warpath and mur-
der their agent, A. J. Bolon, and a number of other white men in their country.
These atrocities they followed up by defeating a detachment of United States troops
under ^lajor Haller, and declared their determination to exterminate all the whites
in the country.
As we have seen, news of the Yakima war reached Ciovernor Stevens on October
29, 1855, when returning from a council with the Blaekfoot nation in Montana. He
was two days' march from old Fort Benton, head of navigation on the Missouri,
when this alarming intelligence reached him by an express from Acting Governor
Mason at Olympia, and his position became one of imminent peril. "At this time,"
to quote from his report to Jefferson Davis, then secretary of war, but within a few
years to be making greater history as president of the southern Confederacy, "my
party of twenty-five men were in this condition: our animals were poor and jaded
from the constant express service in which they had been employed in the operations
])reliminary to the Blaekfoot council; for our expresses had ranged from Saskatche-
wan on the north, to the Yellowstone on the south ; they possessed but few arms and
little ammunition, as we had, in coming up, found no use for them, passing through
the territory of friendly Indians."
Stevens, however, as we have seen in a preceding chapter, met the situation
with his customary courage and vigor.
The governor complained bitterly to the war department against the refusal of
General Wool, commanding at Fort Vancouver, to dispatch regulars to his relief
when it became apparent that he had been cut off from the settlements and his party
was in imminent danger of destruction. "We had reached a place of safety unaided,
excepting by the fortunate movements of the Oregon troops. Not a single man had
been pushed forward to meet us, although it was well known we should cross the
mountains about a certain time, and arrive at Walla Walla at the time we did."
"Mr. Secretary," continues the indignant governor, "Major-General Wool, com-
manding the Pacific division, neglected and refused to send a force to the relief of
myself and party, when known to be in imminent danger, and believed by those who
are best capable of judging, to be coming on to certain death; and this when he had
at his command an efficient force of regular troops. It was reserved for the Oregon
trooj)s to rescue us. There has been a breach of faith somewhere. I ask for an
investigation into the whole matter."
From Walla Walla the governor hastened to Olympia, to deal with the warlike
Indians in the Puget Sound country. He found time, however, to map out a winter
campaign against the warring savages of the interior, and went to Vancouver to lay
it before General Wool, but missed that officer by a few hours. Wool having sailed
from Portland for San Francisco. The limitations of this history forbid the presen-
tation here of Stevens' plan in detail, but it may be said in passing that he advanced
224 SPOKANE AND THE INF. AM) EMPIRE
tliiTf a iloctriiic of successful Indian warfare which ultimately was applied some
twenty years iattr in Indian wars on tin- great plains east of the Rocky mountains,
after repeated failure had demonstrated that the old plan of spring and summer
campaigns was powerless to strike effective i)lows. Stevens' advice was founded on
tlie well known fact that when young grass comes in springtime, the Indian finds
maintenance everywhere, and if menaced hy an invading enemy, has only lo disperse
hispeoi)le in all directions to baffle and defeat pursuit. But in winter his people can
not rove at will or |)leasure. They are required hy the rigors of climate to conccn-
tr.-ite in sheltered i)laces, around their winter stores of provisions, while an invading
force of regulars can transport supplies hy wagon and keep its horses in good con-
dition by feeding grain.
"I will resjiectfully urge," advises Stevens in a detailed communication to Wool,
"tiiat you forward your preparations with all possiliK- dispatch, (let all of your
disposable force in the Walla Walla valley in .lanuary. Establish a large dcl>ot
cimi) liere: occupy Eort AA'all.i Wall.i and be ready early in February to take the
field. February is generally a mild and o|)en month. February and .March are the
favorable montlis for operating; all the Indians are destitute of food; the rivers are
easy to cross; the mountain passes are closed. In Ajiril the Indians can retreat
(iM the I'end <i'()reille route, eastward of the mountains. In .M.iy the Coilir d'Alene
route is also open; the streams are swollen and the salmon begin to run. In June
roots are ahund.mt and the streams difficult to cross. If o])erations he vigorously
prosecuted in Febru.'irv and Mari-h. tlier<- is little prob.ability of any of the tribes
now jK-aeeable, t/iking part in tin- war. This is the eonelusion to which I w/is brought
b\- tile recent council lnld by me with tile Indian tribes on tile S|)okane."
ll.id these reconnnend.itions been heeded, there is reason to believe that the inte-
rior triius would h.ive i)een ])acified by early spring of 18.)(>, and history would
not li.ive recorded the disastrous repulse of .Stejitoe in the summer of 18")8. Numer-
ous .atrocities would ha\c been spared, .iiid thi t.isk of subjugating the hostilcs
would have been far less difHeult .md expensive than it afterwards ])roved to be.
Tiiis view is ably sust.iined by I.ieuten.mt .loim .Mullan. an oftic.r under Wright
in 18r)8, and afterwards niadi' famous as surveyor .•lud builder of the historic Mullan
trail. "Tile war feeling of lH")a." says this .luthority, "was not ended in 1858.
.Manv mav join issue, but let tiu-m renumber tiiat .it the end of the winter campaign
of 18;K) there was a uuit\i.al withdr.iwing of troops .and Indi.ms from tlu- field. In
18.")7 no troops were sent into the field. The iuunigr.int routes were all blocked up
in consetiuenee of difiieulties in the interior, ,ind thus no passage of persons was had
through the hulLin enuntry. The eonuu.ind under Colonel Steptoe then tlial entered
the country in ]8;J8 was tlu first military I'ori'e tliat tried the field since the .-ijjparent
cessation of hostilities."
It is true Ih.al .'sleptoe's littli- eomm.ind entered the eountry with no hostile in-
tent. On tlie contrary, as Mullan says, .Stei)loe had ever been a firm frieiul of the
Indians, and tiic objects of his exi)edition wire to ".adjust .amicably ,ill the difl'er-
enccs that existed .among the Indians .ind whites that then had place at l''ort Col-
villc; to punish those wlio had run ott' cattle from Walla Walla, aiul .it the s.nm
time to ])roduce .1 moral effect on the Indians by moving a military colunni through
the country, .and give his men .it the s.iiiie time .1 field experience."
.Steptoe has been severely criticised for .ipp.irent o\ tr-confidence in the friendli-
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 225
ness of the tribes north of the Snake, and the circumstance that his party came with
an inade(juate supply of ammunition has been cited in substantiation of that belief.
But the truth is, Steptoe had given orders for an adequate supply before leaving
Walla Walla, but lamentably, as a survivor of the expedition, who served as pack-
master, frankly confessed to the author a few years ago, the greater part of the
ammunition that had been brought out for packing was overlooked in the excitement
of the hour, and the loss was not detected until the party had entered the Spokane
country and found itself surrounded by a vastly superior number of furious, taunt-
ing warriors.
Apparently no official explanation was made of the scant supply of ammunition,
for General Winfield Scott, then commanding the army, commented in this terse
manner on Steptoe's report: "This is a candid report of a disastrous affair. The
small supply of ammunition is surprising and unaccounted for."
It is not clear, however, that the disaster would have been averted if ammunition
had been carried in quantity, for Steptoe's force was vastlv outnumbered by the
enemy, a part of his soldiers carried old nnisketoons, an arm inferior to the rifles
borne by some of the Indians, and a part of the command were recent recruits who
had never been under fire and were inexperienced in field service. It seems probable
that with a greater ammunition supply Steptoe would not have made his successful
night retreat, and that with the return of day the Indians — who had surrounded his
position — would have charged his camp and annihilated his command. Even if
they had lacked the courage to close in, they would have renewed the battle and
subjected the troops to a repetition of the galling attack as it slowly retreated toward
the Snake. In that event it seems certain, too, that the enemy would have sent a
sufficient force to the river to capture Steptoe's canoes and thus cut off his retreat to
Walla Walla.
Steptoe's official report of his repulse bears evidence of candor, truthfulness and
moral courage. Writing, May 23, from Fort Walla Walla, to Major W. M. Mackall,
assistant adjutant-general stationed at San Francisco, he said:
"Major: On the second instant I informed you of my intention to move north-
ward with a part of my command. Accordingly on the 6th I left here with compa-
nies C, E and H, First dragoons (the term then employed for mounted men) and E,
Ninth infantry, in all, five company officers and 152 enlisted men. Hearing that the
hostile Pelouses were near Al-pon-on-we, in the Nez Perces land, I moved to that
point and was ferried across Snake river by Timothy, a Nez Perces chief. The
enemy fled towards the north and I followed leisurely on the road to Colville. On
Sunday morning, the 16th, when near the Te-hoto-nim-me (probably Pine creek)
in the Spokane country, we found ourselves suddenly in presence of ten or twelve
hundred Indians of various tribes — Spokanes, Pelouses, Coeur d'Alenes, Yakimas
and some others — all armed, painted and defiant. I moved slowly on until just
about to enter a ravine that wound along the bases of several hills which were all
crowned by the excited savages. Perceiving that it was their purpose to attack us
in this dangerous place, I turned aside and encamped, the whole wild, frenzied mass
moving parallel to us, and, by yells, taunts and menaces apparently trying to drive
us to some initiatory act of violence.
"Towards night a number of chiefs rode up to talk with me, and inquired what"
were our motives to this intrusion upon them. I answered that we were passing on
226 SI'OK.Wl'. AND 'I'lIK IMAM) IIMI'IKH
to C'olvillf, and li iii iki lidstilr iMliiiticiiis towards tlie Spokancs, who had alwa_vs bciii
our friends, nor towards anv other tril)is wlio wire friendly ; tliat my cliief aim in
coming so far was to see the Indians and tlie white people at C'olville, and by friendly
discussion with both, endeavor to strengthen their good feelings for each other. They
expressed themselves satisfied, but would not eonsent to let me have canoes, without
which it would be impossible to cross the .Spokane river. I concluded, for this rea-
son, to retrace my steps at once, and the next nioniing (ITtli) turned back towards
this post.
"We Ii.-id not marched tiiree miles when the Indians, who had gathered on the
hills adjoining the line of march, began an attack u|)on the rear guard, and immedi-
ately the tight became general. We Labored under the great dis.idvant.age of having
to defend the pack tr.iin while in motion and in .i rolling country peculiarly favorable
to the Indian mode of w.irfarc. We liad oidy a small (luantity of ammunition, but in
tluir excitement the soldiers could not be restr.ained from firing it in the wildest
manner. Thej' did, however, under the leading of their respective commanders, sus-
tain well the reputation of the .army for some hours, charging the enemy repeatedly
with g.ill.intry and success.
"The difficult and dangerous duty of Hanking tile eolunm was assigned to Brevet
Capt.iin T.iylor ,ind Lieutenant (iaston. to both of whom it proved fatal. The latter
fell about 1 '2 o'clock, .ind the enemy soon after ch.irging formally upon his com-
pany, it fell b.ack in confusion .and could not be r.allied.
"About .a li.aif hour .after this Captain Taylor was brought in niortalh- wounded;
ujion which I inunediately took jiossession of .a convenient height and halted. The
fight contiiMied here with unabated activity; the Indians occupying neighboring
heights and working themsilves along to pick off our men. The wounded increased
in innnber continually. Twice the enemy gave umnistak.ible evidence of a design
to carry our jjosition by ass.ault, and their number and desperate courage caused mc
to fear the most serious consequences to us from such ,in attempt on their part.
"It was manifest that the loss of their officers .and comrades began to tell u))on
the spirit of the soldiers; that they were becoming discouraged, and not to be relied
upon with confidence. Some of them were recruits but recently joined; two of the
conip.inies had inusketoons, which were utterly worthless to us in our present condi-
tion; and, wh.at was most alarming, only two or three rounds of cartridges remained
to sonii' of the men, and but few to .any of them.
"It was plain th.it the <neniy would give the troo))s !io rest during the night,
and they would be still further disqu.alified for stout resistance on the morrow, while
the nmnber of enemies would certainly be increased. I determined for these rea-
sons, to make a forced m.arch to .Sn.ike river, about eighty-five miles distant, and se-
cure the canoes in advance of the Indians, who had .already tlire.itened to do the
same in regard to us. After consulting with the officers, .all of whom urged nie to the
stej) as the only means, in their o|)inion, of securing the safety of the conmi.ind, I
concluded to abandon everything th.it might ini|)ede our march. Accordingly we
set out .about 10 o'clock in perfectly good order, leaving the disabled .animals .and
such .as Were not iir condition to travel so far and so fast, .and, with dee)) ))ain I have
to .add, the two howitz( rs. The lU'Ccssity for this Last measure will give vou, as well
as many words, a conception of the strait to which we believed ourselves reduced.
Not .-m otiie( r ol' the eonuii.and (lci\ililiil that we would be ii\ crwlicliued with tlir first
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 227
rush of the enemy upon our position in the morning; to retreat further bj* day, with
our wounded men and property, was out of tlie question ; to retreat slowly by night
equally so, as we could not then be in position to fight all next day ; it was therefore
necessary to relieve ourselves of all incumbrances and to fly. We had no horses able
to carry the ginis over eighty miles without resting, and if the enemy should attack
us en route, 'as, from their ferocity, we certainly expected they would, not a soldier
could be sj)ared for any other duty than skirmishing. For these reasons, which, I
own candidly, seemed to me more cogent at the time than they do now, I resolved
to bury the howitzers. What distresses me is that no attempt was made to bring
them off; and all I can add is, that if this was an error of judgment it was committed
after the calmest discussion of the matter, in which, I believe, every officer agreed
with me.
"Enclosed is a list of the killed and wounded. The enemy acknowledged a loss
of nine killed and forty or fifty wounded, many of them mortally. It is known to
us that this is an underestimate, for one of the officers informs us that on a single
spot where Lieutenants Gregg and Gaston met in a joint charge twelve dead Indians
were counted. Many others were seen to fall.
"I can not do justice in this communication to the conduct of the officers through-
out the affair. The gallant bearing of each and all was accompanied by an admirable
coolness and sound judgment. To the skill and promptness of Assistant Surgeon
Randolpli tile wounded are deeply indebted.
"Ik" pleased to excuse the hasty a]j])earance of this letter; I am anxious to get it
off, and have not time to have it transcribed.
"I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
"E. J. Steptoe,
"Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel United States Army."
CHAPTER XXV
DETAILED ACCOUNT OF THE STEPTOE RETREAT
INDIAN HOSTILITY A SURPRISE HOSTILES OPEN FIRE OFFICIAL REPORT OF KILLED
AND WOUNDED — ^FATHER JOSEt's ACCOUNT OF THE TRAGEDY DEVILISH INTRIGUES
OF THE PALOUSES RECOLLECTIONS OF A SURVIVOR STEPTOE SAVED FROM ANNI-
HILATION BY NEZ PERCE ALLIES FAITHFUL OLD TIMOTHY MEMORIAL PARK
MARKS THE SITE OF STEPTOE's LAST STAND PATRIOTIC GIFT OF DAUGHTERS OP
THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION.
In all the trade of war, no feat
Is nobler than a brave retreat.
— Butler's Hudibras.
LIEUTENANT GREGG, in Steptoe's command, wrote to a friend at Fort
Vancouver that when they left Walla Walla no one thought of having an
encounter, for the Spokanes had always been considered as friends of the
whites. It was therefore a surprise when these Indians halted the soldiers and pro-
tested against their further advance into the country. Gregg reported that the
Indians were well mounted, armed principally with rifles, and were extended
along Steptoe's flank at a distance of 100 yards. After Steptoe had talked with
the chiefs he informed his officers that they would have to fight, as the Indians
were constantly growing more menacing and insulting. The soldiers dared not
dismount, and remained in the saddle for three hours until the Indians dispersed
with the setting of the sun.
This was Sunday, the 16th, and the morning following the command started
on the retrograde movement towards Walla Walla. The Indians opened fire as the
troops were crossing a little stream, and within twenty minutes the firing was gen-
eral. Gregg reported the losses' at two officers, five men and three friendly Indians
killed, ten men wounded, and Sergeant Ball, who had greatly distinguished himself
in the action, as missing. He added, "It will take a thousand men to go into the
Spokane country."
OFFICIAL REPORT OF THE KILLED, WOUNDED AND MISSING IN THE BATTLE AT TE-HOTQ-
NIM-ME, M.\Y 17, 1858.
Killed — Brevet Captain O. H. Taylor, Second Lieutenant William Gaston,
Privates Alfred Barnes, Charles H. Harnish, .Tames Crozet, Victor Charles DeMoy,
First Sergeant William C. Williams.
229
230 Sl'OKANF. AM) 11 1 1. IM.WI) l.MIMltK
Wounded — .laiiu-s I.yncli. IKiiry .M()iilr<\ ill< . I'.lijali R. IJircli, Jauics Kelly,
^^'illi.•lln D. Mieon. Hariet Sneckster, James Healy, Maurice Henley, Charles
Hughes, John Mitclull, Ormond W. Hammond. John Klay and Gotlieh Berger.
After the eonnn.ind liad retreated to Walla Walla intcnsi- and bitter interest
centered around the source of tin- Indians' suiJjjly of anmuinition, and unjust and
unfounded rumor asserted that I'atlier Joset, the Jesuit priest at the Coeur d'Alene
mission, had supjilied it. In an ortieial re|)ort Ste[)toe discredited that rumor, and
gave his belief that it liad been supplied either by the traders at Fort Colvillc or
the Mormons from the L tali country. Father Joset was deeply grieved by the cruel
rumor, and said to Steptoe that it was a charge too monstrous for him to notice in
;i formal way.
It is not didieult. now. to comprehend the origin of a story so diametrically in
conflict with the truth. Trom the beginning of the unrest. I-ather .loset had pleadi-d
inccssantlv with tin Indians lor ))eace. As a result of his labors, a large number of
the Coeur d'Alencs, probably half of the tribe, bad declined to be drawn into the
fighting. In his zeal to ))revent the impending clash, the i)riest had followed
his wards to the very point of eontlict. remonstrating with tbcni till bis own
life was imperilled. \\ ben the soldiers, not understanding bis motives, saw
this man of God mingling with their s.i\age enemies, they were startled, and sjjrang
to the conclusion that be had been instriinuiit.il in infl.iming their minds, and out
of that belief grew the wild rumor tli.it be bad supplied them with ammunition.
We quote now from a letter of Father Joset, to Father Congiato, superior of
the missions in the Rocky niount.iins. in relation to 'the events of the unfortunate
17th of May, and of the causes wliieb have brought such sad results':
"Do not think, my reverend father, that I am beknowing to .-ill the affairs of the
savages; there is a gre.at dr.il w.inting: tln-y eoiiu- to us about the alT.airs of their
conscience, but .is to the rest they consult us but little \ftc r the b.ittle
Hoiiaventure, one of the best young men in the nation, who was not in the fight,
and who, as I will tell later. Ii.is .aided us n great deal in saving the lives of the
.Americans at the mission at the time of the b.ittle, said to me, 'Do you think that
if we thought to kill the Americans we would tell you so?' Even among the Coeur
d'Alenes there is .-i eirt.iiii number that ui never see, tb.it I do not know in .any
manner. The m.ajorily distrust nie uIhii 1 eonir to s))i'.ik in f.ivor of the .\niiri-
c.ins.
"Last winter Michelle said to me: "F'/itlicr. if the soldiers exhibit themselves in
the country (of the mountains) the Iiidi.ins will become furious.' T had heard
rumors that a det.aelunent would eoiiic to Colville, and I iutendi-d to go to inform
Colonel Steptoe of this disposition oi the Indians. Toward the bcginnitig of
.April it was learned that an .\meric.-in ii.id been assassin.ated by :\ Xez Perce. Im-
mediately rumor commences to cireul.ite th.-it troojis were jirrp.iring to cross the
Nez Pcrces ftlic ."^iLike river) to obtain \x;ngeanee for this crime. Tow.ird the end
of .\pril at the time of my departure the chief. Pierre Prulin. told lue not to go
now; to wait some weeks to see what turn .itV.iirs are going to t.-ikc . 'I .am too hur-
ried,' I rejiliid III liini. 'I e.an iml wait.' .\rri\i(l .at the Cain.as |ir;iirii-. I nut the
express of tin- gn-.it eliirf N'iiui nl : Ibis lolil ine to return, bis peojile tliouglit there
w.as too inueb d.auger .al lli.il nmnirnl. I ri plied that I w.as going to wait three
davs to give Ibr ebicf time tn (iml ini biuisrlf; tb.it if In- did not eoiiic I would
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 231
continue nij' route. I said to myself, if Vincent believes really in the greatness
of the danger, however bad or liowever long the road may be, he will not fail to
come. In the meantime I saw several Nez Perces. Their conversation was gen-
erally against the Americans. One of them said in my presence, 'We will not be
able to bring the Coeur d'Alenes to take part with us against the Americans ; the
priest is the cause; for this we wish to kill the priest.'
"Vincent marched day and night to find me. He said 'We are not on good
terms with the Nez Perces and the Palouses ; they are after us without cessation
to determine us in the war against the Americans. We are so fatigued with their
underhand dealings that I do not know if we will not come to break with them entire-
ly. Their spies cover the country. When the young men go for horses, they will
kill them secretly and start the report that they have been killed by the Americans.
Then there will not be any means to restrain our people. We hear the chief of
the soldiers spoken of only by the Nez Perces, and it is all against us and to
excite our young people. I have great desire to go to see him (Steptoe).'
"It was agreed that when I should go down I should take him to see the colonel.
It is then I learned a part of the rumors which were spreading over the country.
A white man had said: 'Poor Indians, you are finished now; the soldiers are pre-
paring to cross the river to destroy you; then another five hundred soldiers will go
to establish themselves at Colville ; then five hundred others will join tlum ; then
others and otliers till they find themselves the strongest; then they will chase the
Indians from the country.'
"Still another white man had seen five hundred soldiers encamped upon the Pa-
louse preparing tliemselves to cross the river. All the above passed three weeks
before the last events. Among other things Vincent said to me: 'If the troops are
coming to pass the river, I am sure the Nez Perces are going to direct tliem upon
us. . . '
"On the l.Hh of Mav I received another ex]iress from Vincent. The troops
had jiassed the Nez Perces (the Snake) ; they had said to the Coeur d'Alenes that
it was for them the soldiers wished. Vincent desired me to go to aid him in pre-
venting a conflict. He told me to be quick — the troops were near. I set out in an
instant. . . . Tlie distance from the mission to Vincent's camp was, I think,
about 90 miles; as the water was very high. I could only arrive on tiie evening of
the 16th. Vincent told me lie had been kept very busy to restrain liis young men;
that he had been at first to the chief of the soldiers, and had asked him if he had
come to fight the Coeur d'Alenes; that upon his negative reply he had said: 'Well,
go on,' but to his great displeasure he liad eanijied in his neighborliood : th.it then
he had made his people retire. Still a liloodthirsty Palouse was endeavoring to
excite them. Later other Indians confirmed to me the same re))ort ; they were
Vincent and the .Sjiokane's chief who prevented the fight on the l;)th. The chiefs
of the different tribes and a quantity of other Indians gathered around me. I
spoke to them to persuade them to peace. I told them that they did not know
with what intention the chief of the soldiers was coming; that the next day they
should bring me a horse, and that they might accompany me till in sight of the
soldiers; that I would tlien go alone to find the officers in command, and would
make them to know then what was now doubtful; they a])]ieared well satisfied. I
said still to Vincent to see tliat no ])erson took tlie advance.
232 SI'OKANK AM) llli: IM.AM) I'.M I'l UK
"Tlif saiiu- fvining tin y c.iiiic from tlu- ciiiip (it tin- Paloust-s to aiinouncf that
one of tlic slaves of the soldiers (it is thus that tli.v call the Indians wiio acconi-
l)an.v the troops) had just arrived. The ehief of the soldiers had said, according to
him. '\on C'oeur il'. Mines, ymi are well Ici do ; vdiir lands, your women, are ours.'
1 told the Coeur d'Alenes not to believe it: that no olHcer ever spoke in that way;
tomorrow, I said, I will ask the chief of the soldiers if he has said that.
"The next morning I saw the Spokane's Tshequyseken (medicine man). .Said
he to me: 'Yesterday evening I was with the ehief of the soldiers when a P.ilouse
came to tell him that the priest had just arrived: he has brought some powder to
the Coeur d'Alenes to encourage them to kill tin- soldiers.' Then, turning around
towards tlie Coeur d'Alenes I said: 'Do you sec now the deceit of this people.' They
go and slander us before the soldiers, and slander the soldiers lure.'
'A\lirii they hail brought rue a horsi- I wi'ut to the eanij) of the soldiers: they
were far off. I set out in their direction to join thiin. I s,iw Colonel Steptoe,
made him acquainted witli the dis))ositions of the Indians, the mistrust the presence
of the troo])s would ins])ire, and \w\v 1 had been kept from going to inform him
in the spring. . . . I 'asked him if he did not desire to see the chiefs. l'))oii
his rci)ly that his dragoon horses were too nnieh frightened to stop long, I observed
to him that they could talk in marching: he then said he would take pleasure in
seeing them. I went to seek them, but could find only Vincent: him I conducted
to the Colonel: he was fully satisfied with him. One of the Indians who accom-
panied the troops g.ave Vincent a blow over the shoulders with his whip, saying to
him, 'Proud man. why do you not fire?' and then accused one of the Coeur d'Alenes
who had followed \'incent of having wished to fire i:pon a soldier. Vincent was
replying to the colonel when his uncle came to seek him, saying the Palouses
were about commencing to fire. I warned the colonel of it and then went with
Vincent to try and restr.iin the Spokanes and Coeur d'Alenes; when we had made
them acquainted with the disposition of the colonel they appeared well satisfied.
\'ictor. one of the braves who has since died of his wounds, said. 'We have nothing
more to do here, we will each one go to his liome.' .lean Pierre, the ehief. su|)ported
till proposition of \'ietor: then Malkapsi beeami- furious. I did not at the time
know why. I found out later that he wished .all to go to the camp of Viiu'ent to
t.alk over their affairs. .M.ilk.i))si slapjied .lean Pierre, and struck Victor with the
handle of his whip. I seized the infuri.iti d man anil :\ few words sufficed to e.ilm
him.
"I set mil tliin with a few chiefs to .•iiniounee at the eanqi that all uas trau-
(|uil; .1 h.-ilf hour or an hour later, what was my surprise to learn th.it they were
fighting. I h.id to .ask for a horse, and there was in the cam)) only old men and
women: it was about three o'clock when they brought me a heavv w.igon horse. I
set mil. howe\er, with the hope of getting there by night, when I w.is met bv an
Indian who told me it was useless to f.atigue myself, 'the Indians .are enraged at
the death of their ))eople, they will listen to no one,' whereupon J returned to my
tent, the dagger in my heart.
"The following is the cause of this unliapjiy conflict as it has been related to
Tiir: 'I'he parents of Malkapsi, irritated .and ashanu-d of his passion, s.aid to him,
'What do you do? You m.altre.at your own people. If ydii wish to (iirht. behold
your enemies' fpointing to the troo|)s). then s.aying. 'Oh. uell hi us <fo and die.'
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 233
they ran towards the troops. I do not think there was more than a dozen of them.
The affair did not become serious until Jacques, an excellent Indian, well beloved,
and Zachariah, brother-in-law of the great chief Vincent, had been killed; then the
fury of the Indians knew no bounds.
"The next day I asked those that I saw, 'What provocation have you received
from the troops.'"' 'None,' said they. "Then you are only murderers, the authors
of the death of your own people.' 'That is true ; the fault can in no way be attrib-
uted to the soldiers. Malkapsi is the cause of all the evil.'
"But they were not all so well disposed. When I asked others what the soldiers
had done to them, they replied to me: 'And what have we done to them that they
should come thus to seek us; if they were going to Colville,' said they, 'why do
they not take the road; no one of us would then think of molesting them? Why do
they go to cross the Nez Perces so high up ? Why direct themselves in the interior of
our country, removing themselves further from Colville.'' Is it us who have been to
seek the soldiers, or the soldiers who have come to fall on us with their cannon?'
Thus, although they avow that they fired first, they pretend that the first act of
hostility came from the troops. I asked them if they had taken scalps. They told
me no, with the exception of a small piece that had been taken by a half fool. I
asked them also if they had interred the dead. They replied that the women
had buried them, but that the Palouses had opened the graves which were at the
encampment. It is then also that the Indians told me: 'We see now that the father
did not deceive us when he told us that the soldiers wished peace. We forced them
to fight. We fired a long time upon tliem before they answered our fire.' . . .
"You will easily believe me, my reverend fatiier. wlun I tell you I would pur-
chase back with my life this unhappy event; not on my own account; I have been
and will be much slandered; but what are the judgments of man to me, when God
is my witness that I have done everything in my power to preserve peace? . . .
"I am, with respect, my reverend father, your very humble servant.
P. .JOSET, S. J."
Father Joset accused Steptoe's Nez Perce guides with intriguing to bring on a
clash of arms between the troops and the Spokanes and Coeur d'Alenes, alleging
as a motive their desire to settle old feuds against those tribes, and believing that
the soldiers would easily defeat and humiliate their enemies. Without question
the guides directed the command to tlie wrong road, as the direct and natural route
to Colville would have led the party more to the west and towards a crossing further
down the Spokane. That the guide mistook himself so grossly, he declares, would
be absurd to supjjose. "I see no other way to explain his conduct than to say he
laid a snare for the Coeur d'Alenes wliom lie wished to humiliate, and seeing after-
wards the troops fall in the ditch that he had dug for others, he has done every-
thing possible to draw them from it."
Poor, faithful old Timothy, for his fidelity to the whites can not be doubted,
even though, as Joset charges, lie fell into a design to use them to humiliate a tribal
enemy, was doubly unfortunate in falling under a eloiid of suspicion; for Beall
tells us that when Timothy came in from his ]5erilous work of scouting in search of
an opening thr(mgh which the exhausted command might retreat to Walla Walla, a
234 SPOKANE AND THE INLAND IMI'IRE
iuiMil)iT iif tlif soldiers (|U(sti(MU(i his fi(iilit\-. anil ijiuniiiin il that lie was lictraying
till-Ill into tlir li.inds nt' tlic savage foe, and Hciiild had the in t(i ainlmsli and de-
struction.
The Palouses were .Ma(hia\ illian in thi ir chvilish work of embittering the
S])olianes and C'oeur d'Alenes against tiie wiiites. They made it their chief mission
to circulate false rumors, always attributing evil designs to the soldiers, and were
deplorably successful in their scheme of ])oisoning the minds of their childlike and
credulous dupes. Lieutenant !Mullan h.is expressed his deepest contempt for the
niiseliief-making role of these Indians, whose trii)e. he avers, was made up of
renegades from every other tribe in tlic interior. 'I'luy l)ore "a most unenviable
ri'putation for lying and thieving — their best of traits," and he adds that witii
such men for newsmongers and siieh men for eouneillors it is not surprising to know
that the Indians who had been friiiidly were misled and misinformed regarding
the intentions of tiie white peojde. 'riiey liad been tnid that tlie prim;iry and prin-
cipal object was for the extermination of the Indi.in .and to ))ut the wiiite man in
possession of his women, his wives, his lands, iiis ,ill.
During all of tiiis time, continues Mullan, the Jesuit fatliers had been indefat-
igable in their e.\ertions to preserve peace. They pleaded early and late, till their
weak voices were drowned in the stronger voices of the hostiles crj'ing for war,
until their very motives were suspected and impugned and they themselves threat-
ened with a fate which the agitators had now planned for all the whites.
Fifty years after, Major ,1. G. Trimble, a survivor of the battle, residing then
at Berkeley, California, wrote a gr;i])hie reminiscence of the retreat: "The com-
mand arrived at the iiutte (scene of .'^tl■|)toe's final stand) about the middle of the
afternoon. The uninjured men spread out in skirmish lines along the north and
east sides of the butte, seeking refuge behind tufts of bunch-grass. Behind them
were placed the su))])lies. the wounded and the two howitzers. Tiie wounded suf-
fered severely. I'lie nun had been without food since daybreak, and without sleep
for more than 2 1 hours.
"Tlu- Indians kejit attacking ijersistently. They tied buneh-gr.iss to their heads
and tiieii wriggled like snakes through the tall gr.-iss. To add to the desperation
of tile situation, the command was running short of ammunition, it h;i\ing started
with only .'SO rounds to the man.
"When evening fell the Indi.ans ceased tiring, but their eanipllres lila/ed all
round and made the attenijited sortie dangerous. Flight was the only course left.
The howitzers were buried and the dead interred. The wounded were tied to
horses, the white horses being coverid witli dark blankets. A few mules were
))icketed to one siih' to suggest some sort of traji to the wary savages, and at 9
o'clock at night the comm.ind set forth under the guidance of the Nez Perces.
"Through all the we.ary night the men rode, reaching the P.ilouse hills at day-
break. When they Iiad crossed tin riM r a halt was m.ide .and some semblance of
order restored to the command. Inil there uas no food to ln' had. Six men were
missing, iirobabh' becoming losi in I lie hurried flight tliroiiuli the dark, '("he rest
of the comm.and soon mounted the j.ided horses .■ind rode li.ird tow.irds the Snake
river.
"About dusk the troops reaeliiil tin lop of the long rough descent to the river
now known ;is .Steptoe e.anvon. .and at inidniglit they got to the ri\-er. .'ind tiie faith-
ROSALIA, WASH IM; Tu.\
Over this ground Steptoe's command retreated in 1858, |Hirsued by one thousand howling,
painted warriors. Within a stone's throw of this scene he made
his last stand against the hostiles
THE ^£W I'ORK
FU8UC LIBRARY
liLCtH FCIUKOATICNI
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 235
ful Nez Perces were there. A strong body of them climbed to the top of the canyon
and stood guard till daylight, when the troops crossed the river. The squaws suc-
cored the wounded and broiled salmon for the nearly famished men. Had the Nez
Perces not remained faithful, it is probable that the entire command would have
been destroyed."
According to Trimble the equipment was |)oor. One company had Mississippi
Yager rifles, an arm that carried well but could not be loaded on horseback. The
others fought with musketoons, which carried one ball and three buckshot, but
these gims were of no execution at more than fifty yards. Tlie men also had old-
fashioned, single barrel, muzzle-loading pistolets, decidedly inferior to those of the
Indians. These arms were inferior to the Hudson's Bay rifles of the Indians, and
only the determined bravery of the troops, in repeatedly charging the yelling sav-
ages saved the command from destruction in the running fight along Pine creek.
Years afterward, when the smiling arts of peace had conquered these scenes of
former warlike aspect, a number of these antiquated arms were turned by the plough
again to the sunshine and the winds. In the heat and stress of battle, weary sol-
diers, their ammunition gone, had cast them away. And j-ears later, wheels of the
howitzer carriages were taken from a deep ])ool in Pine creek, near the base of
battle hill.
Lieutenant Lawrence Kip, an officer in Wright's expedition, expressed the con-
sensus of official judgment in holding that the retreat was necessary, and, under the
circumstances, admirably conducted. "Night at last settled down on the battle-
field and found the little command perfectly exhausted and with the ammunition
almost gone," wrote Kip. Two officers— Captain Oliver H. P. Taylor and Lieu-
tenant William Gaston, both of the Eirst dragoons-— had fallen with a number of
men. The remainder were gathered On rising ground, while every hill around
swarmed with tlieir exulting enemies who seemed to have them now completely in
tiieir toils. 1 _.
"A council of the officers was hastily held by Colonel Steptoe at which there
was but one opinion. The force against them was over])owering, and by the next
morning would undoubtedly be still further increased. Without ammunition they
would be almost defenseless, and it was evident that long before the close of the .
next day not one of the command would be left to tell the storv of their fight.
"Nothing remained therefore but to .■■ttempt a retreat during tlie night. The
bodies of the fallen whieli were within their reach were liuried, the two howitzers
were cached, and the command mounted and stru.'k off in the direction of the Snake
river."
In every account of this sad affair the author has discovered an earnest desire
to conniiend the fidelity and fine intelligeiiee of our Nez Perce allies. They saved
the eonnnaiid from aiiniiiilation. It w;is tlie writer's good fortune, in the spring of
19(17, to meet a little group of the survivors who were visiting Rosalia as guests of
the townspeople. In the work of relocating the various jioints of interest they lived
again in the wild, free jiast. and m.iny an eye was dim with tears as these grizzled
veterans strode still sturdily over the hills and through the jileasant meadows where
half a century before they had fouglit so desjierately for life. The ))rosperous town
has preenijjted a considcralile jiDrtion of the old battlefield, and stragtrles out to the
base of the low hill wlure the list stand was made. The little vallev of Pine creek
236 SPOKANE AND TIIK INLAND K.MIMHK
lies at its base, and across tills meadow and up tin- liill was earried tin- siip|)ly of
water that saved the lives of wounded soldiers and served to refresh tlu weary
comrades who fougiit so gallantly to save the command.
Particularly clear and vivid were the recollections of Private Thomas J. Beall,
and the lapse of fifty years had not dulled his firatitude to the faithful Nez Perce
guides. He recalled their names with fondest reeolleetion — pious names they bore
in token of the labors of zealous mission bands. There was Timothy, a chief,
and Levi and .^^inion. and half-breed Ch.arlie Connors, "who was killed on yonder
hill the night that we escaped."
In the dusk of tlie summer iii<;iit loyal 'riiiiotliy volunteered to seout under
cover of darkness out beyond the skirmish line, in search of some jiossible opening
in that terrible cordon of savage foes. And .Stei)toe accepted the brave service,
and never questioned Timothy's loyalty or judttment when he returned after an
hour of perilous adventure and rei)orted th.it he h.id found a ga)) and through it
could lead the soldiers, perhaps to safety and home. The w.iy led across the little
valley, over a shallow in the stream, .and tiiiiie.- up a stee)) hill on tii<- other side,
so steep indeed that the hostile Indians had not thought it wortli tiieir whil.- to
guard.
Three survivors of the Stcptoe and Wright campaigns went over the extended
Stcptoe battlefield at Rosalia, Whitman county, June 14.th, 1907, and explained
to nearly sixty visitors from .Spokane and many citizens of Ros.ilia. the scenes and
stirring events in that dis.istrous (iglit. These survivors were Thomas .1. Beall,
who now lives near Juliaetta, Idaho. He was Colonel Steptoe's chief-packmaster
in the Steptoe battle: Michael .1. Kenny who also took part in the battle and Avho
came to the reunion from Wall.i Walla: .1. .T. Rohn. also from Walla Walla, who
was with Colonel Wright's eoimnand the following autunm and was a i)art of the
detachment sent by Colonel Wright to the scene of the Steptoe battle, to recover
the remains of the officers and men who fell in that action.
A memorial park marks now the site of Steptoe's last stand. Citizens of Rosalia
donated three acres, and Esther Reed chai)ter of Spokane of the Daughters of the
American Revolution has taken up the commendable work of cneting tlure an
enduring monument to the memory of the soldier band who fought with such
heroic fortitude in order that we who came after, and our children ;ind children's
children might h.ive tiie i.les.sing of enduring peae<-. Tile chapter li.as pledged the
completion of that work, and the historic eminence will bear a fitting granite obe-
lisk.
The site was form.illy dedic.ited. .lime 1.'-. 1!)().S. with an iiiijiressive jirogr.imme
before an assemblage of more than 1,000 people. Special trains brought two hun-
dred regulars from Fort Wright and interested citizens from Spokane and Colfax,
and the visitors were met in Rosalia by a special reception committee comprising
Mayor F. M. Campbell and Mrs. Campbell, Tom Priehard, marsh.il of the day,
a.ssi.sted by L. W. Anderson; Mr. and Mrs. M. E. Cheat, Mr. and Mrs. Charles
Helmer, Mr. .and Mrs. F. J. Wilmer. Mr. and Mrs. Ralston McCaig, Mr. and
Mrs. M. W. Mcrritt, Mrs. T. R. Lewis, Miss Kate Woods, S. \V. Towne, T. F.
Donohoe, E. W. Wagner and others.
Esther Rei-d ch.ipler was represented by Mr,. M. .1. Cordon, regent: Mrs. F. H.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 237
Crombic, vice-regent; ^Irs. J. W. Maclntosli, recording secretary; Mrs. J. S. Moore,
registrar; Mrs. William H. Smiley, treasurer, and Mrs. J. T. Cooper, director.
A procession was formed and marched to the battle ground, and arrived there,
the Colfax band played patriotic airs while the jjeople cheered and waved flags.
Prayer was offered by the Rev. F. N. Smith of Rosalia, and H. ]M. West, on behalf
of the citizens of Rosalia presented the deed of gift of the park to J. R. Rupley,
chairman of the Whitman couijty board of commissioners. Mrs. M. A. Phelps,
chairman of the Steptoe Monument association, responded to the presentation of
the deed on behalf of the Daughters of the American Revolution. General T. R.
Tannatt of Spokane, a member of the West Point Graduates association whose long
army service in the west had brought him into intimate relationship with many of
the officers who fought in the Indian wars of the '50s, reviewed the careers of
Taylor, Gaston and Gregg.
In the afternoon formal and eloquent addresses were made by Governor Albert
E. Mead, Colonel Lea Febiger, then commanding at Fort Wright, and Judge Stephen
J. Chadwick, then of the superior bench of Whitman county and later of the state
supreme court.
CHAPTER XXVI
COLONEL WRIGHT'S CAMPAIGN OF REPRISAL
WAR DEPARTMENT ACTS WITH QUICK VIGOR STRONG COMMAND SENT OUT FROJI WALLA
WALLA SAVAGES MASS FOR THE CONFLICT ARE INSOLENT AND DEFIANT BOLDLY
ATTACK THE TROOPS ARE ROUTED WITH HEAVY LOSS NEAR MEDICAL LAKE LT.
KIp's GRAPHIC ACCOUNT OF THE BATTLE WILD FLIGHT OF THE ALLIES NEZ PER-
CES CELEBRATE WITH A WAR DANCE HOSTILES RALLY FOR ANOTHER ATTACK FIRE
THE PRAIRIE GRASS SCENES OF WILD CONFUSION BATTLE OF THE SPOKANE PLAINS.
The setting sun
With yellow radiance lightened all the vale:
And, as the warriors moved, each polished helm
Corslet, or spear, glanced back in gilded beams.
The hill they climbed ; and halting at its top,
Of more than mortal size, towering they deemed
An host angelic clad in burning arms.
— John Home.
THE war deiiartraent was quick to grasp the unpleasant fact that Steptoe's
repulse made necessary a campaign of resolute vigor and stern reprisal.
Intoxicated by their victory, the hostile tribes grew more arrogant and con-
fident than before, and boasted that they would drive back any force that the govern-
ment might dare to send north of Snake river. Clamor rose louder and more angry
with each ])assing week for the massacre or expulsion of every white man in the
country, and it became apparent that nothing short of complete chastisement would
allay the bitter hostility of the savage mind.
Accordingly it was decided to hurry reinforcements to Fort Walla Walla, and
to send a strong column under Colonel (ieorge Wright into the Indian country.
These preparations consumed a period of about three months. Before lea\nng
Walla Walla Colonel Wright dispatched couriers to the friendly Xez Perces, asking
them to meet him at the fort. When they arrived a council was held under an im-
provised arbor, and they were told hy tlie commander that so long as they remained
faithful they should have the protection of the strong arm of the law. After several
chiefs had spoken, about thirty warriors volunteered to accompany the command.
The first detachment, under Captain Keyes, moved out from the fort on tlie
morning of August 7, charged with the duty of selecting a crossing at the Snake and
choosing a site for the necessary field work to guard it, and at the same time to keep
239
240 SPOKANE AND THK INLAND KMPIRE
open the line of communication witli Fort Wall.i W.illa. Captain Keyes selected the
crossing at the mouth of the Tucanon, as it offered an abundance of good wood and
grass, and designated it "I'ort Taylor" in honor of the Captain Taylor who had
fallen in Steptoe's battle of May 17. Here a fortification was erected, a road con-
structed for the use of the troops in descending from the plateau to the stream, and
a large flatboat built to ferry the command across the Snake.
A severe storm delayed the crossing two days, but on August 25 and 26 Wright
made the passage successfully with his entire command, without loss or accident, and
went into camp on the north bank with a force of 570 regulars, thirty friendly Nez
Perces, 100 employes and 800 animals of all kinds, with subsistence for thirty-eight
days. Brevet Major Wvse, with company D, Third artillery, was left to occupy
I'ort Taylor to protect the stores and boats and keep open the line of communication.
"Marching from Snake river on the morning of the 27th," runs the official report
of Colonel Wright, "our route lay over a verj- broken country for a distance of four-
teen miles, where We struck the Pelouse river and encanii)ed on its right bank. Re-
suming our march on the i28th, I halted, after a march of six miles and a quarter, at
a |)oint wliere tile trail divides — that to the left leading to Colville direct, and that
to llie right more to the eastward, .\fter consulting our guides and examining our
maps and itineraries, I determined to march on the trail to the right; accordingly,
on the :i9tli, we advanced. The country presented a forbidding aspect; extensive
burnt districts were traversed, but at the distance of twenty miles I found a very
good encampment, with sufficient grass, wood and water. Up to this time we had
seen no hostile Indians, although Lieutenant Mullan, my engineer officer, with our
eagle-eyed allies, the Nez Perces, had been constantly in advance and on either
flank; signs, however, bail been diseovercd. .inii I knew tliat our apjiroacli was known
to the hostiles.
"Advancing on the morning of the .'iOth, occasionally a few of the enemy were
seen on the hilltops on our right flank, increasing during the day and moving parallel
with our line of march, but too remote and too few in number to justify pursuit.
"After marching eighteen miles I encamped, and about 5 p. m. the Indians
approached our ])ickets and a sharp firing commenced, I immediately moved out
with a portion of my command and the enemy fled. I pursued them for four miles
over a very broken country, and then returned to camj) at sunset. .\11 was (luiet
during tbe night, and at 6 o'clock this morning we were again on the inareli. .Soon
the Indians were seen in small parties at the distance of two or three miles on the
hills, and moving as yesterday, with their numbers gradually increasing and ap-
proaching a little nearer, but I did not deem them worthy of notice, only taking the
precaution to halt frequently and close up our baggage and su|)ply trains as com-
jiactly as possible. Our march this day was ten miles longer than we .anticipated,
and for a long distance without water; and, at two miles from this camp, the Indians
made a strong demonstration on our supply train, but were hnndsomelv dispersed
and driven off by the rear guards, and infantry deployed on either flank.
"My men and animals require rest ; I shall remain here tomorrow ; I have a good
camp, with an abundance of wood, water and grass."
The command was now well .advanced into the Spokane country, and was mov-
ing over the elevated and broken plateau which forms an indistinct boundary between
the Palouse region, the Big Bend country, and the .Spokane valley proper. Little
SPOKANE AXD THE INLAND EMPIRE 241
time, iiowever, remained for rest, for the savage foe was massing for the conflict,
eager for tlie impending clash, still fluslied with his recent victory over Steptoe's
little column, and confident that a few more suns at furthest would witness a repeti-
tion of that disaster and perhaps on a more sanguinary scale.
On the morning of September 1st, Indians in greater numbers were seen posted
on the surrounding hills. They were defiant and insolent, and seemed eager for an
engagement. Wright met the challenge by ordering out a large part of his force
to drive the enemy from the hills and engage the main body of the warriors, reported
by the scouts to be concentrated just beyond an overlooking eminence. After advanc-
ing a mile and a half, this force of 220 men came to the foot of the hill and promptly
dislodged the savages. The dragoons first reached the summit, and after exchanging
a volley, drove back the Indians' skirmish line, and held the position till the foot
soldiers came up.
On the plain below the enemy was massed, and every spot seemed alive with the
red warriors which the soldiers had come so far to fight. The scene was in the
vicinitv of Four Lakes, near the jiresent town of Medical Lake, and about twenty
miles from the falls of the Spokane. The Indians, mounted, were in tlie scattered
woods on the shores of the lakes, in ravines and gullies, and dashing madly over the
o))en ground. Kip reported that they seemed to cover the country for a distance
of two miles. "Mounted on their fleet, hardy horses, the crowd swayed back and
forth, brandishing their weapons, shouting their war cries, and keeping up a song
nf defiance. Most of them were armed with Hudson's Bay muskets, while others
had hows and arrows and long lances."
In his description of the scenes that followed. Lieutenant Kip has left us a
grapiiic ])ortrayal that is suggestive of the best lines of Walter Scott:
"Tluv were in all the bravery of tlieir war array, gaudily painted and decorated
witii their wild trappings. Their plumes fluttered above them, while below skins
and trinkets and all kinds of fantastic embellishments flaunted in tlie sunshine.
Tiieir horses, too, were arrayed in the most glaring finery. Some were even painted,
and with colors to form the greatest contrast ; the white being smeared with crimson
in fantastic figures, and the dark colored streaked with white clay. Beads and
fringes of gaudy colors were hanging from their bridles, while the plumes of eagle
feathers, interwoven with the mane and tail, fluttered as the breeze swept over
them, and com])leted their wild and fantastic ajiljearance."
But a disiieartening surprise was in store for them. Steptoe's troops had been
equipped with antiquated arms inferior to those carried by the savages, but the men
under Wright were armed with the latest military rifle which propelled a minnie
b.iU with great accuracy and long range. It soon became apparent that consterna-
tion had seized the red warriors, for they retreated before the death-dealing fire of
the soldiers. At first they came resolutely forward to engage the invaders, advanc-
ing rapidly, firing, and then retreating with great quickness and baffling irregularity.
But as the line advanced, an increasing number of Indians were seen to fall from
their saddles, although their fire was impotent against the trooj^s. As in the Step-
toe fight, they made desperate and successful efforts to prevent their dead falling
into the hands of the soldiers. One Indian was seen leading off a horse with two
of his dead com])anions bound to it.
As the steadily advancing troops drew nearer and the fire grew more heavv, the
vni r -in
1^1:2 sroKAXi: AM) iiii: i\i wd imimui",
wliiili .irr.iy tli.it li;i(l liccii fr.itliiTcd in the woods .iriii ravines .irduiiil tlu- base of
tlu- liill lirokc and Hi-d towards tlic |)lain.
This was tlu' nionunt cagirly awaiti-d liv the dragoons, and wlun tin- order was
given to cliarge, tile companies tliat had been with Steptoe and seen Taylor an(J
Gaston fall before the tire of tin- redniin, went wild with tlic s])irit of vengeance-
Up to this moment the mounted nun had l)ien held in the nar of tile foot soldiers,
but galloped forw.ini between the com|)any intervals when they heard the command-
ing voice of Capt.iin (irier shouting, "Chargi- the rascals I" Jn a twinkling the
dragoons were u|>oii the madly retreating Indians. Out came tin- s.ibers, ll.ishing
in ihe millow .iutuinn sunlight. ,iiid with clatter of hoof and r.attle of arms, and
fierce yells of the victors and shrieks of the v.iiKiuished. the work of cutting down
the laggards was acconii)lisiied witii a resolution and thoroughness th.it strvick terror
to the fleeing foes. Lieutenant Davidson shot one w.arrior from the saddle, with a
blow of his saber Lieutenant Gregg s])lit the skull of .mother. It became a wild race
for life, with tiie fleeing Indians d.isiiing desijcrately for cover in the rocks .-ind
woods. Only tile jaded condition of the soldiers' mounts saved the fugitives from
complete destruction. The troojjs h.id been on the march for twenty-eight d.iys,
there had been constant scouting, ,ind ,it niglit tin- horsis were jjicketed with insufli-
eient grazing area, .iiid they were consequently no m.iteli for the fresh mounts of
the Indi.an fighters.
So eoni))letely wire the horses ( xli.iiisted. tli.at they were ji.issed bv tin- foot
troops, who ;idx;iiiec (1 and (lrc)\c the iiieiuy under .-i constant fire for .iboiit two miles.
As the Iiidi.ins li.id sc.ittend under widi' cover, ('oliinel Wright ordi'red ;i bugle
recall, and tlu- Hushed and triunipii.int soldiers returned to c.imp. The fighting h.id
lasted four hours, .-ind exteiuh-d over a field of three miles. Not .1 lu.in was killed
or wounded, while the Indians h.id suffered ;i loss of fifteen or twenty killed .iiui
forty or fifty wounded. Their dead included a brother and brother-in-law of Chief
(i.irry of the Spokancs.
In their iirecijiit.-ite flight the Indi;ins threw .iw.iy their imixdimenta. and the
lil.ain was strewn with muskets, cjuivers. bows .and arrows, blankets and robes. There
w.is much gaiety as tlii' troojis c.-ime in with triiphi<s of the fight. p;irticul.irl\ when
.•in officer .appeared with Iwn bull'alo robes .ukI .1 lil.-inket wrapped arimnd biiiiself
and horse.
A little Later the Nez Perce .lilies straggled ill. They li.ad pursued the tli-eing
enemy ten miles, .and came b.ack even richer in spoils tli.iii lluir white eninr.ides.
Deplor.ably. their collection eont;iined several sc,al|)s, and "( utiiinutli .loliii." who
had received in Ihe W'hiliu.an ni;iss.acre a frightful wouiiil that hidi-ouslv marn d his
features, was most jubil.aiit of .all ,as he w.aved his bloody trophy high .above his
head. A grand w.ir d.ance. protr.icted f;ir into the night, celebr.ated the d.iy's events
to the complete satisfaction of the .allies.
Colonel Wright, in his ofHei.al report, "took great ])lcasurc in commending to the
departiiii iit the coolness and g.illantry displayed by every officer and soldier en-
gaged ill the b.atlle."
To ricruit the weary anim;ils aftiT tlie b.attle of the Four Lakes, the eommand
rested there for three (Lays. No hostile Indi.uis .i|)])e.ired to disturb the well-e.iriied
rest, .and the Nez I'erce scouts, .after r<-eonnniteriiig the surrounding couiitrv, re-
|)orled thai none wire in sight.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 243
At 6 o'clock on the morning of September 5 the column broke camp and started
througli tile broken country for the Spok.me river. After a march of five miles, tiie
enemy was seen collecting in large numbers on the riglit. For some time they rode
parallel to the troops, all the while increasing in numbers and insolence. The lesson
of the 1st was incomplete, and the hostiles had seemingly renewed their courage,
tiuir confidence and insolence indicating some newly conceived plan of battle in
whicli they were placing liigli confidence. This they quickly put into execution. A
high wind was blowing from the south, and the Indians firing the dry grass of the
prairies, a roaring sea of flame was soon rolling u))on the command, enveloping it in
dense clouds of smoke. Under cover of this liank of smoke, the redmen ])artly
encircled tile troops and poured in a rifle fire upon them. Tile pack train |)romptly
closed up Miul was guarded by Captain Dent's company of rifles, a company of the
Third artillery and a company of dragoons, while the remainder of the command
made ready to repulse the foe.
A curious and exciting scene attended these preparations. While the Mexican
muleteers were driving the lOO lieavily loaded pack animals to a center, many of
tlie iiostiles, wild witli rage and excitement, were indulging in tlic most daring feats
of horsemanship, dashing down steeji hills with all the reckless abandon at their
command, the while shouting in defiance and taunting the soldiers to meet them in
action. Their courage was of short duration, for when the soldiers, flushed with
recent victory, charged through the smoke and flames, they quickly broke and fled
to the cover of woods and canyons. But they had short respite in the woods, for
the howitzers soon shelled them out of that cover. It was then that the great war
chief Kamiaken of the Yakimas had a narrow escape from death, a shell bursting in
a tree-top above him and sending down a branch that inflicted a severe wound.
Then the infantry renewed the charge and rapidly drove the skulkers on towards
the river, until the country for a distance of four miles, which had recently been
swarming with them, was cleared of their presence. Among those who fell in this
stage of the fighting was a chief upon whose saddle was found the pistol used by
Lieutenant Gaston in the Steptoe campaign.
Fighting of this nature, alternate charges by dragoons and infantry, continued
all the way to the Spokane river, over the present military reservation of Fort
Wright.
In his cflicial report Colonel Wright states that he had continuous fighting for
seven hours, over a distance of fourteen miles, and finally camped on the banks of
the river, the troops exhausted by a long and fatiguing march, without water and
for two-thirds of the distance between the four lakes and the stream having been
constantly under fire. "The battle was .won," Wriglit adds, "two chiefs and two
brothers of Chief Garry killed, besides many of lesser note, killed or wounded. A
kind Providence protected us, although at many times the balls flew thick and fast
througli our ranks; yet, strange to say, we had but one man slightly wounded."
Wright officially designated this engagement the "battle of the Spokane plains,"
as the eastern ])ortion of what is now termed the Big Bend country was then known.
His official reports and others speak of the Spokane valley as "Coeur d'Alene prai-
rie." This seeming error in terms will be better understood when the fact is recalled
that the fur traders who began operating in this region in 181 I called the stream
from the lake to the present Little Spokane the Coeur d'Alene river, and considered
244 SPOKAM'. A\l) rill. IM.WI) I. Ml' IKK
tlie I.ittl<- Spok.iiii- ,111(1 the strc.iiu liclow it^ intiuth tlir S|)()k;inc. Old maps, reports
and iiarrativi-s I'ricnuiilly nfi r to tin- Sptikaiii- himsc at the cDiifluence of the Coeur
d'Alciif and Sijokanc, or llu- "I'ointi-d Hiart" and tlu- Spokane, C'orur d'Alcnc bt-ing
a Frctifli phrase translatalile as "arrow-liearted," or more literally, "awl-lu-arted.'"
Lieutenant .lolin Mullin haves us tli<' t'ollouinfj interesting information hearing on
this point:
The version given me (says Mullan). and uliieli would appear to he reliable, is
as follows: When the English trading corporation known as the Hudson's Bay
conii)any, ni()no|)i)lized that whole region of Oregon, their successes in establishing
trading st.itions among the Indians was of the most marked ciiaracter. N'o tribe,
howcM-r iiostile or numerous, had been ever known to oppose an_v obstacle in their
way. until they made the attemjjt to establish a st.ition or post among this small
band of Indians, who. tenacious of their rigiits. and loving their mountain wilder-
ness, said to this c<)m|)any: "We are willing to barter our furs and peltries for
your jiowder and b.iU and such things as you bring for traffic, but we can only make
the exchange at certain jioints." n.amed by themselves; "within the limits of our land
you can not enter, but on the hanks of yonder river, which m.irks our border, we
will meet you at stated times, and there, and there oidy, we can trade and traffic."
Their determination, wiiich even uj) to this day (18.J8) they have most steadfastly
clung, became liie law of the company, and they so ))ersistently maintaim-d it that
the Canadian voi/arjcurx, employes of the company, immediately called these sav-
ages "Coeur d'Alenes," Indians having "hearts of arrows," and hence often called
"Pointed Hearted" Indians, and the mission "Pointed Heart" mission.
Wlien the disciples of I.oyol.a entered this region (Mullan continues), with the
jiraiseworthy object of establishing their missions at diflferent points in the moun-
tains, the Coeur d'Alene country, among other sections, was selected. "Hut," said
the members of this same company to th<' fathers, "you are certainly not going to
establish a mission among the Pointed Hearts.'" "Why not?" said they. "Be-
cause." w.as the re))ly. "we h.i\<- tried for years ])ast to surmount, and as yet with-
out success, the difficulties that .array themselves against us and forbid the .attempt."
But the more anxious now. because difficulties did environ their ]),ithway, the noble
DeSmet, Joset .and Point, in 1842, went forth .and successfully establi.shed the cross
in the Rocky mountains, ,ind. loo, in the very heart of the country of these semi-
savages; and the evidences that we now saw around us all bore witness how untir-
ing and successful their efforts had been."
CHAPTER XXVII
WRIGHT DICTATES STERN TERMS TO THE VANQUISHED
COMMAND BREAKS CAMP AND MOVES UP THE SPOKANE GARRY SUES FOR PEACE WRIGHT
HANGS FIRST VICTIM CAPTURES AND KILLS VAST HERD OF INDIAN HORSES RUNNER
BRINGS LETTER FROM FATHER JOSET INDIAN BARNS AND GRANARIES BURNED
CHIEF VINCENT OF THE COEUR d'aLENES BEGS FOR PEACE COMMAND MARCHES TO
COEUR d'aLENE MISSION PEACE COUNCIL A SCENE OF BARBARIC COLOR INDIANS
TERRIFIED BY APPEARANCE OF DONATl's COMET.
WE PAUSE in the narrative to take a prospect of this region as it unrolled
before the eye of Wright's command. Walla Walla's fair valley was as
unsettled as in the days when the fur trader entered the country a cen-
tury ago, for little effort had been made by home-builders to invade it since the
atrocities of the Whitman massacre of 184.7. Its great beauty and potential fertil-
ity, however, were then apparent, and an officer under Wright predicted that it
could be brought to the support of a population of 15,000, an estimate that seemed
then a rather wild flight into the fanciful. Walla Walla city alone has now a popu-
lation in excess of 20,000.
After the command crossed Snake river, its way lay across what is now the
heart of the rich Palouse country, then a vast, open bunch-grass region, dotted by
bands of Indian horses, and with an occasional village of tepees in the sheltered
groves along the streams. The reader will have noted that the author, when quoting
from official reports, has regarded the original and correct spelling of the name
Pelouse — a French noun translatable into English as a grassy sward, an appellation
bestowed by French trappers and vofiaqeurs in the early part of the nineteenth
century. This beautiful, rolling region, now so rich in material wealth, and all the
attendants of refinement and civilization — with its amplitude of schools, colleges
and churches, of homes, towns and cities, served as a great pasturage domain for
Indian iierds. Its rich volcanic soil had nowhere been broken by the ploughshare's
steel.
At the falls of the Spokane the river ran as wild and free as it had thundered
through the distant ages, and save the nomadic shelters of the red men, no habita-
tion marked its shores. Up the valley, as the command neared lake Coeur d'Alene,
evidences of semi-civilized cultivation met the eye. Wheat-growing had been at-
tempted with considerable success by the Spokanes and Coeur d'Alenes, and in their
gardens potatoes and other vegetables gave promise of the more bountiful yields
that the soil would bear under the white settler's care.
245
246 SPOKANE AND 1111. I M.AM) 1. Ml' I HE
Excil>tiiig ail iKcasiiiiial small fiu-lo.Mirc for tlu-si- agricultural bigiiiiiings, tin-
Spokane valley was also a spreading bunch-grass domain, over which roamed large
bands of eavuse ponies and some small iierds of cattle.
Tlie fighting over, the officers and their brave men bad better o])p(irtunit\' to
enjoy the wildh' beautiful |)anoraina wliieli ii.iture had spread around tlnir camps.
Lieutenant Ki]) wrote enthusiastically of the entrancing scenes, blending a prosi)ect
of rushing waters, of linij)id Lakes and distant wooded mountains. We quote from his
description :
"We broke up our cam)) this morning at seven, and moved up the river about
seven miles, when we again encamiJcd. Most of our w.iv l.av through the wood
skirting the river (the command is now marching over grcnuid tliat .ifterw.ird became
the business ,and residence sections of .*^))okane). the scenery .around being very
beautiful. Just before reaching our cam|)ing ground, we p.assed the great S))ok.in
falls (note his oiiiissioii of the liii.il 'c'l. ll is .1 high, n.arrow. b.asaltic c.aiivon,
where the whole river passes over an inclined ledge of rocks, with .1 fall of between
forty and fifty feet. The view from every i)oint is exceedingly i)ictures(iue. As
high up .as the f.ills. s.alnion ,arr found in grr.it .ibuiul.aner. while .above them trout
are very ])lenty."
A few days later the s.ame writer wrote glowingly of tiie scenes surrounding
l.ike ( 'oiur dWItiie :
"All day we have toiled along through beautiful scenery, yet a countrv difficult
for a force to make its way, as our march li.is been through the forest in its primeval
state. 1 c)i- the first few miles .along the borders of the lake, the trees were scat-
tered, but .after leaving the shore the timber became so thick that tlie troops had to
m.ircli in single file. The forest seemed to become more dense as we adv.anced,
until we could see nothing about us but high hills ,and deep caverns, with thick
woods covering all, through which we wound our way in a twilight gloom.
"This is a splendid country as a home for the Indians, .and we can not wonder
th.it tiny .ire .aroused when thry think the white men .are intruding on them. The
Coeiir d'Alene l.ake, one of the most beautiful I li.ive ever seen, with w.ater clear
as cryst.al. is .about fifteen miles in length (it is nearer thirtv in fact), buried, as it
were, in tin- Coeur d',\lene mountains, which rise .around it on everv side. The
woods are full of berries, while in the S])ok.in river s.almon .abound below the falls
.and trout .abo\ e. In the winter season deer and elk .are found in tlie mountains.
.M.iny parts of the (diiiitry .are good for gr.izing. while there are a sufficient number
of fertile spots where crops can easily be r.iised. When tlu' Indi.an thinks of the
hunting grounds to which he is looking forw.ard in the .Spirit Land, we doubt whether
he could iiii.igiiie .anything more in .aia-ord.ancr uitli his t.astc Ih.in this realitv."
We now resume the thread of the narr.itive ,it the point where Colonel U'right
wi 111 into e.anip. with his weary but victory flushed troops, on the .S|)ok,ine river
at .1 point in the iiniiiedi.ite vicinity of (ireinwood cemeterv of the jiresent (lav. The
sixth of .Septinilier w.as .a (Lay of rest. Indi.aiis skulked on the ojiposite side of the
Stream, .and tli.it .afternoon a few jilueked up eour.age .and came into the camp, pro-
fessing fririid'-hip .and giving infonii.ilion .aliimt the fords.
The next morning the comm.and m.arclied up the river, jiassing over the jiresent
site of ,Spok:ine. Ag.iin Fndi.ins were sighted <m the oiijiosite shore, and commmiica
liiiii w.is o|ii Old Willi llii 111 Ihnmgli Ihe Nez Perce guides. They re|)orted th.at Chief
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 247
Garry was near by and wanted a conference, and Wright directed them to meet
him at the ford about two miles above the falls. The command halted at the desig-
nated point, and (iarry crossed over and came into camp. He said that he had been
op])osed to the fighting, but that the young men were against him and he could not
control his ])eople. Credence was given to his professions, for Dr. Perkins, who
had attended the Spokane council at Fort Colville, had made the following mention
of Ciarry: "He says his heart is undecided; he does not know which way to go; his
friends are fighting the whites, and he does not like to join them; but if he does
not, they will kill him. During the whole time that we were in the council, Ciarry*
never said a word, but merely looked on."
Wright told Garry to go to his l)eoi)le and all the other Indians and say for him :
"I have met you in two bloody battles; you have been badly whipped; you have lost
several chiefs and many warriors, killed or wounded. I have not lost a man or
animal; I have a large force, and you Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes, Pelouses and Pend
d'Oreilles may unite, and I can beat you as badly as before. I did not come into
this country to ask you to make peace; I came here to fight. Now when you are
tired of the war and ask for peace, I will tell you what you must do: You must
come to me with your arms, with your women ;ind children, and evervthinc; vou have,
and lay tliem at my feet; you must ])ut your faith in me and trust to my mercv. If
you do this, I shall then dictate the terms upon which I will grant you peace. If
you do not do this, war will be made on you this year and next, and until your
nation shall be exterminated." Garry promised to join Wright the following morn-
ing on the march.
After the interview with Garry, Polotkin, another Spokane chief, came forward
with nine warriors and sought an interview. Wright was suspicious of this Indian,
having learned that he had been conspicuous in the attack on Steptoe, and was a
leader in the battles of the Four lakes and the Spokane plains. As this party had
left their rifles on the opposite bank, Wright directed the chief to sit still while two
of his Indians were sent over to bring them in. He then told Polotkin that he would
hold him in custody, with one of his men who was strongly suspected of tlie nnirder
of two niiiurs in the preceding Ajiril. After encamping the following evening at a
point sixteen miles up the valley, Wright further investigated the case of this Indian,
and as his guilt seemed established beyond question, he was hanged for the murder
of the miners. This was the first execution as a result of the uprising, but before
Wright left the Spokane country he hanged many others. Particulars of this sum-
mary ju.stice will be narrated further along in the narrative.
When the two Indians had crossed the river to bring in the rifles, one of them,
thinking discretion the better part of valor, niadt- off in a hurry, but tlie other re-
turned with the arms, which were found to be of British nianufaeturc, marked
* In the jiiiljiniiMit of H. T. Cowley, "Garry was of a weak and vacillating character,
crafty and iuirplial)lp. He reported to Colonel Wright after the defeat, that he had advised
against the hostile movement, but I have been told by Thomas Brown, one of the oldest set-
tlers in the Colville valley, that Garry used his utmost endeavors to draw the Colville and
Calispel Indians into hostilities, setting forth the allurement of the large amount of plunder
which would he divided among them in case of the defeat of tlie expedition, a result wliirh
he thought easy of accomplishment. Prominent members of his own tribe here informed me
of the same circumstances."
248 Sl'OK.Wl. AM) llll. INI, AM) I.MIMIfF.
"l,i)ii(liiii. IS 17. .-iikI li.id i\ idciitly htiii purcliaMci ol tlir lliulson's Bay coiiijiaiiy
at Fort Colvillf.
The coininand marched at sunrisi- on the morning of Septcuihtr 8, and after ad-
vancing up tlie valley about ten miles, the Nez Perce scouts reported tiiat they had
sighted Indians on tile right, and at the same time clouds of dust were seen rising
between the command and the mountains. Tilkohitz, a Palouse chief, was trying to
run his great b;ind of iiorses out of the country, and was heading for a ))ass in the
hills on the southern side of the valley. The Nez Perce allies and a numlirr nt the
soldiers were sent in pursuit, and after a short skirmish captured tlie whole l),ind of
800 or 900 animals. The Indians retreated to the hills, and, as afterwards learned,
watched the driving of}' of tiie horses from an eminence, observing that it did not
matter a great deal, siner A\'right would have to turn them loose again, .and tiny eould
be rounded up .after \\r liad left tlie country. Tlie ca|)ture was made "near ,a wide
lake to tlie right of tile great C'oeur d'Alene tr.ail, .a ))l.aee where large numbers of the
four tribes winter" (jjrobably Saltese lake.) Two days later Colonel Wright, as a
w.ar iiu .asina , to punisii tile Indians and prevent the possibility of renewed hostilities
after he should leave the countrv, ordered tiie killing of these horses, with the excep-
tion of about 130 saved for tiie use of liis expedition. This distressing work con-
sumed the greater j)art of two days. The method first .ido])te(l was to enclose the
animals in a large corral, and then lasso them one by one, drag them out and kill
them with a well-placed rifle li.all. In this way about 200 were dispatched, but the
plan proving slow and jiainfii! to tiir feelings of the soldiers, it was .ab.andonrd, and
most of liu otiurs were killed by tiring \ollevs into the eorr.al. The colts were dis-
patciied witii .a blow on tlie lie.ad, .and an officer wiio witnessed tiie painful duty,
wrote afterward th.at it w.as most distressing, at nigiit after the killing, to iiear tlie
brood mares that yet remained, neighing niourMfully for their young. A number
of tile animals, becoming wild witii fright, broke away from their captors
and escaped to the hills. Tlir site of tliis tragedy was .a])propriatelv called tiie
"Horse .Sl.augiiter cam]), ' .and w.as in.arked till ,a eoiiip.ar.ativeiy recent li.atr li\- |)iles
of liones on tile open prairie.
On tile morning of .Septeiiilier 10 .an liuii.iii niiiiKi- caiiic in from tiie (iniir
d'Al(iie mission, lic.ariiig from I'.ithc |- .lo-.il .a Icttc i- st.atinii Hiat the Indi.ans were
entirely erusiual .and li.ad r< aiuesti (i liiiii to intercede for tiieiii. Colonel \\'right tiiere-
upon decided to in.areli his (a)niiii.aiul to tiie mission. Aeeordinglv .an .adv.anee was
orderetl, and on tin- iiioi-iiiiig of tin ilr\i iitli tlic river w.as crossed .at tlie upper ford,
.and tJK trail taken for l.akr Coiair d .\lrni-. This led over an easy prairie road for
two and .1 ii.alf miles, win re tin ro.ad forked, one leading across tiic prairie to Clark's
fork of tile Cohinii)i.a, .and thi otlur tliroiigli the open timber along the north i»ank
of the Spok.aiii-. 'I'liis route carried tlie eoniiii.iiid .across tlir site of tin- present town
of Post Falls. "About twelve miles below tile lake," s.ays .Mull.aii, "tile river makes
anotiier f.all, passing tiirongh ,a deei) .and n.arrow rocky gorge some thirty yards
wide, in a lie.aiitifiii sIkcI of white fo.aiii. "
I.ii iiten.anl .Muli.an, wlio siiliseciiicntly laid out and constructed the famous Mul-
lan ro.ad for liu' w.ar dep.artiiient, kept a keen <ye during tiiis campaign for jiossi-
bililies of Mich ,1 ro.ail. .and in .a subsequent report suggested tli.at it niigiit be found
fe.asiiilc to hl.ast out tlie niekv olistriielions .at i'osl I'alls .and IIk rrbv lower tin- lake.
CHIEF GARRY AS SKETCITKH l\ 1,S55 ( HI EF CARRY IX OLD A(iE
•^rriE IHEW YORK
[PUBLIC LIBKART
I
LiW*X
r uawD*TI»N«
SPOKAxNE AND THE IXLANU EMPIRE 249
reclaim ovtrflow lands in tlif St. .Joe valley and prepare a way for easy road-building
along the banks of tliat stream.
At a point four miles from the lake the eiinnnand came to some Indian fields and
gardens and destroyed there two or three barns filled with wheat. Some caches hold-
ing dried eake and berries were also destroyed. "This outbreak," wrote Kip, "will
bring ui)on the Indians a winter of great suffering from the destruction of their
stores."
Just before reaching a .camping spot on the lake shore, an Indian burial ])lace
was passed. "Each grave was covered with a low log house, surmounted by a cross,
the house answering both as a monmnent and a protection for the remains against
wild animals." "Though our march was one of devastation through the country, we
left unharmed and untouched the spot where reposed the lifeless dead," remarks
Mullan — an example which, had it been more closely followed by settlers through-
out the northwest, must have softened the antipathy of the natives against the in-
vaders, prevented a great deal of bitter indignation, and made unnecessary the re-
cording of many savage acts of revenge. To the ghoulish acts of curio-hunters, who
have not hesitated at desecration of Indian graves, may be traced the cause of the
killing of many a white man by infuriated Indians.
As the troops were about to resume their march on the morning of the twelfth,
Vincent, head chief of the Coeur d'Alenes came in, bearing a pass from P'ather Joset,
and announcing that he was rounding up the hostiles to bring them to the mission
to meet Wright and sue for peace. The route this day followed an Indian trail
along the lake for three and a half miles, when it ascended a mountain that com-
manded a fine view of the lake and surrounding forests. A distance of only ten
miles was covered, and the army encamped in a beautiful little prairie on Wolf's
Lodge creek.
Thence on to tlie mission the way was much obstructed by fallen trees in a dense
forest. Over the narrow trail the command could only proceed in single file, and
extended over the trail for six or eight miles. The march was made, though, with-
out danger, as the fighting spirit had been entirely driven from the Indian breast.
Wright considered it, however, an act of prudence to maintain a strong front and
rear guard until he reached the mission, nineteen miles from the camp on Wolf's
Lodge creek. It was 10 at night when the last of the pack train arrived at the mis-
sion. The weather had been sultry, and the soldiers suffered considerably on the
march. The officers were provided with mounts, but shared them through the day
with exhausted privates who had fallen by the wayside, and many of whom required
medical attenion.
"We first came in sight of the mission when about five miles off," writes Lieuten-
ant Kip. "It is situated in a beautiful valley surrounded by the Coeur d'Alene
mountains. A pretty stream, a branch of the Coeur d'Alene river, with clear, cold
water, runs alongside of it, furnishing means of irrigation. In the center of the
mission stands the church, and round it cluster the other buildings — a mill, a couple
of houses for the priests, the dwellings of the Indian converts, and some barns to
store their produce. The priests, in the evening, sent a wagon full of vegetables to
the officers."
While awaiting the coming of Vincent and other Coeur d'Alenes for the ap-
proaching council, the officers paid frequent visits to the priests. Fathers Joset and
250 Sl'OKANK AM) llll-, INLAND 1 MI'IHK
Miiiitrcv, and tlirt-c lay brollit-rs. I>y wlioiii tiny were received with great kindness
and politeness. This mission was not established till 1816, when experience hail
shown that the one on the St. .Iose])h river was not admirably located, being subject
to Hood in time of high wat^^r. The priests informed Colonel Wright that the Coeur
d'Alcnes could not muster more than 100 warriors, and the whole tribe did not ex-
ceed lOO souls. Most of them, though, participated in the recent fights. The Spo-
kanes numbered about four times as many warriors and people.
On the morning of the seventeenth, practically all the Coeur d'Alenes being as-
sembled, was held the memorable peace council. The scene was one of marked bar-
baric color. Hefore Colonel Wright's tent an arbor of trees and boughs Iiad been
provided, and in tills syK.in c-lianilur tin cliiifs nut tin- olHecrs who were to deter-
mine their fate and future.
"I have conunitted a great crinu-, " confessed (liiif \'inei-nt. in opciiiiig the eoun-
eil. "I .am fully conscious of it, .iiui .ini dei ply sorry for it. I and all my people are
(1(( ply rejoiced that you are willing to forgive us. I have done.
Colonel Wright (to the Indians): "As your chief has said, you have committed
a great crime. It has angered your (Jreat Father, and I have been sent to punish
you. You attacked Colonel Stejitoe when he was jiassing peaceably through your
country, and you hav<- killed some of his men. But you ask for peace, and vou shall
have it (in certain conditions.
"^'ou see that you fight .against us hopelessly. I have a great many soldiers. I
have a great many men at Walla \\ all.i, and have a large body coming from Salt
Lake City. What can ynu do against us.' 1 ean ])l.iec my soldiers on your plains, by
your fishing grounds and in the moinit.iiiis where you eateli game, and ycnir helpless
families ean tiot run away.
"Vou shall lia\t- jiiaee on the following conditions : Yini nnist deliver to nie, to
take to the general, the men who struck the first blow in the affair with Colonel
Ste])toe. You must deliver to me, to take to Walla Walla, one chief and four war-
riors with their families. Wni must drlivcr up lo nir all property taken in the affair
with Colonel Steptoe. Yon must .allow all trooj)s and other white men to pass
through your country unmolested. You must not allow any hostile Indians to come
into your country, and not rng.igr in any hostilities with any while man. 1 promise
you that if yon will comply with all my re(]uirements none of your ptoj)le shall be
harmed, liul I will withdraw from your comitry and you shall have i)eacc forever.
"I .also rii|nirc thai tin lialclut sh.ill be buried between you and our friends, the
\e/ I'erees."
The |)arl of the speech rcfrrririi;- (u tin Nc/, I'crces was ri'pc.ated to the Ccicur
d'Alenes in their presence.
Vincent: "I desire to hear what the Ne/, Perces' heart is."
Haitzmalikcn. eliiif of the Nez Perces, replied: "You behold nic lu fore you. ami
I will lay my heart opiii to you. I desire there shall be peace between us. It sh.all
be ;is the colonel s.-iys. I will lU'ver wage war against any of tin- friends of the
white man. "
Vincent: "It does my heart good and makes also my people glad, to hear you
.speak so. I have desired ))eaee between us. There shall never be war between our
people, nor between us .and tin white men. The |)ast is forgotten."
The conditions proposed by Colonel Wright Hir( then formally signed, first by
SPOKANE AND THE IXLAXD EMPIRE 251
himself and his officers, and then by Vincent and the other chiefs and head men.
The pipe of peace was smoked all round and the council was ended.
The aged Spokane chief Polotkin, who had formerly been held as a prisoner,
also made a short speech, saying tliat he was satisfied and would try to bring in
his people. He left the camp immediately on the conclusion of the council.
Pacific relations were now completely established, and the soldiers and Indians
engaged in brisk trading, shirts and blankets being exchanged for robes and mocca-
sins. But the scene had yet its side of sadness, for a number of the women were
weeping bitterly, some for those who had fallen in battle, others for the hostages who
were to be taken away to Walla Walla. The Indians found it difficult to understand
why the soldiers could be so friendly with them, and Fatlier Joset explained it by
saying the soldiers "were like lions in war and lambs in peace."
Some of the Coeur d'Alenes frankly disclosed the tactics by wiiich they had
hoped to defeat the command. They had expected to be attacked first by the dra-
goons or mounted men, and had planned to concentrate their rifle fire and ammuni-
tion on that arm of the service. Tiie dragoons disposed of, they had expected to
surround the infantry and to keep riding round them, shooting in arrows. As they
greatly outnumbered the foot troops, they counted on thus cutting them off from re-
treat and gradually wiping them out. The long range rifles demolished this well
planned scheme.
"In the beginning of September." we are informed by an officer under Colonel
Wrigiit, "Donati's comet appeared, and night after night it has been streaming above
us in all its glory. Strange as it may seem, it has exerted a powerful influence over
the Indians in our behalf. Appearing just as we entered the country, it seemed to
them like some huge besom to sweep them from the earth. The effect was probably
much increased by the fact that it disappeared about the time our campaign ended
and the treaties were formed. They must have imagined that it had been sent home
to their Great Father in Washington, to be put away until required the next time."
"I have never," says Wright in an official report, "witnessed such manifestations
of joy as were expressed by the whole Coeur d'Alene nation — men, women and chil-
dren—at the conclusion of the treaty. They know us, they have felt our power, and
I have full faith that licnceforth the Coeur d'Alenes will be our stanch friends."
CHAPTER XXVIII
HOW HANGMAN CREEK DERIVED ITS NAME
WRIGHT HOLDS A COUNCIL WITH THE SPOKANES CANNY OLD COLVILLE CHIEF SPO-
KANE CHIEFS HUMBLED KAMIAKEN ELUDES ARREST QUALCHIEN COMES IN AND
IS PROMPTLY HANGED DIES LIKE A COWARD OWHI SHOT IN A DASH FOR LIBERTY
SIX MORE INDIANS HANGED ON HANGMAN CREEK SIXTEEN IN ALL ARE VICTIMS
OF THE NOOSE REMAINS RECOVERED OF SOLDIERS WHO FELL IN STEPTOe's FIGHT.
WRIGHT'S next move was a great council with the Spokanes, and the
place chosen for the rendezvous was on tlie banks of Hangman creek,
near the present town of Spangle, in the southern part of Spokane
county. The command, leaving the Mission on the morning of the 1 8th, and moving
by way of the St. Joseph river, arrived at the council grounds on the evening of the
22d, where the Spokane nation awaited him. Kamiaken, the great war
chief of the Yakimas had been in camp the evening before, but his courage seems
to have failed him for he and another chief cleared out before the troops arrived.
Wright sent Chiefs Garry and Big Star out after him, with a message that he
should not be harmed if he came in, but if he failed to surrender he would be hunted
down and jnit to death. Kamiaken was regarded as the most powerful chief in the
Inland Empire, and the most relentless foe of the white men. His mother was a
Yakima and his father a Pelouse, this giving him a great influence over the two
tribes, and his talents as an organizer won him considerable authority over most of
the tribes of the interior.
"My first acquaintance with Kamiaken," says Kip, "was at the Walla Walla
council, three years before. There it was evident that he was the great impediment
in the way of any cession of the Indian lands. While the other chiefs, one by one,
came into the measure, and even Looking Glass, the war chief of the Nez Perces,
at first entirely hostile, at last yielded to the force of some peculiar arguments
which are equally potent with savages and white men, notliing could move Kamia-
ken. Witli more far-reaching wisdom than the rest, he probably saw that this sur-
render of their lands and intrusion of the white men would be the. final step in
destroying the nation. Governor Stevens was unable to induce him to express any
opinion, but he sat in gloomy silence. Several times when the governor appealed to
him with the inquiry, 'we would like to know what is the heart of Kamiaken,' his
only answer was, 'What have I to say?' He was the leader in the outbreak which
took place shortly after, when Major Haller's force was defeated, and he has been,
we have no doubt, the moving spirit in arraying all these tribes against us this
254 spoK.wi: AM) ■nil; im.am) i.mi'Iui:
season, anil liringinj;- >>ij (liis iipi ji war la re. Il is not to br wciiidtTcci at, tlicri'fore,
that in- is afraid to put liinistlf in tlif jjower of the whites."
llanginan cTtck took its name from tile iuinging of a number of outlaw Indians
by order of Colonel Wright at this encampment. It has been a stream of extensive
nomeiielaturc. Wright dated his dispatehes from this point, "Camp on the Xed-
wiiauld Kivcr. W. T., I, at. i7 degrees, 21 minutes north." Others in his party
spelled it "Niduald, " and yit otiiers termed it the Ned-whuald or I.ahtoo creek.
In one report it ap])ears as Camas Prairie creek, and a few years before his death
the venerable and beloved Protestant missionary Father Eells informed the writer
(if this volnnic that the Indians ealled it ".Sin-too-too-ooley" creek, or the place
where little fish were caught. Objecting to the grewsome name of H.-ingman, the
Washington legislature att( nijiti d a few years ago to fix the name by statute as Latah
creek, a clum.sy eorrn|)ti(in of tin iimre luphonious Indian word "Lahtoo."
The .Spokane council was held on the morning of September 2.S, in front of
Colonel Wright's tent. It was a delegate gathering, attended by 107 representatives
and chiefs, wlio came empowered to speak for the Spokanes. the Colvilles, the Pend
d'Ori'illes .and several smaller bands. Tlir ('olvilir ehiif was a canny old redskin.
Prior to the w.ir he told his i)eo))l< that In had heard ,i good de.il about the soldiers,
but never having seen them, he would go down iiid be a witness of the fighting. He
was .at the battle of the Four L.akes. and wIk n the engagement was over he hastily
mounted his horse and hurried back to his own illihee. the Indian word for home
or iduntry. Having calltil his tribe together, he reported that he had seen the
soldiers, but m \rr wanted to see them .again. They stood as firm as the pines, he
said, when the Indians fired at them; they could march f.aster and further in a
d.iy than horses and their guns carried .i mile, more than halt' w.iv as far .igain
as the Indians' .arms; .and his eoiieluding words were that tin v slmuld alwavs re-
main friends with the whites.
.Vdiiressing the couneil Culnnrl \\ right |ir(Mnisrd llicni piaee on tin sanii terms
he had imposed on the Coeur {lAleties. He expected them, he said, to come for-
w.ard like men, as the Coe\ir d'.Menes h.ad done and were now friends of the gov-
ernment. This was the last trialy that he should make, .and he desired that the
friendly Nez Perees be included in it. but the hostile Nez Perces who had taken
pari in the fighting must be driven out of the country. In conclusion he decl.ared
tli.it the government intended to make ro.ids through their country, wlure and
whenever it pleased, and the men eni|iloyed in th.it work nuist not be molested.
The .Spok/uu' chief replied; "I am sorry for what li.is been done, and gl.ad of
the op|iortiuiity now ollered to make pe.aee with the (ireat I'.ilher. \\ e promise
to obey and fulfill these terms in every point."
Another old .Spokaiu' chief said "My heart is the same. 1 trust everybody is
included in the ('olonel's mercy."
Colonel Wright: "It embraces everybody, and those who go with nu to \\'.alla
W.alla as hostages for the good behavior of the nation shall not be hurt tlu least,
but wi II taken care of until their safe return at the ex|)iration of one year."
The treaty was signed by .all the chiefs ])resent for the .Spokanes. \\'lul( the
council w.is in session, (iarry and Kig .St.ar returned ami re))orted that tbev bad
hunted all night for Kami.akcn without success, biil bad foinnl liini anil his brother
Sebroiini at iln\brrak on the nlber side of the Spokane rivi'r. 'I'bev could not in-
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 255
duce him, liowever, to come in, as he said he was afraid of being taken to Walla
Walla.
After the conditions of peace had been interpreted to Garry and Big Star they
also signed the treaty.
Milcapzy, a Coeur d'Alene chief who had not attended the council of his tribe
at the mission, was present at the Spokane council, and Colonel Wright singled him
out and said :
"Milcapzy, I saw your letter to General Clarke. You said to the General:
'Perhaps you tliink that we are poor and want ))eace. We are neither poor nor do
we want peace. If you want peace you must come and ask for it, and take care
that you do not come beyond the battle ground.'
"W^ho now asks for peace ? I do not. And where stands the battleground }
Milcapzy thinks he is rich. He has bands of horses, and houses and farms and
lodges full of grain. Let him remember that riclies sometimes take wings and fly
away. Tilkohitz was rieli once, but is poor now. Milcapzy, look upon the banks of
the S]3okane (a reference to the killing of Tilkohitz's great band of horses). I
should like to hear Milca])zy speak."
Milcapzy reflected a moment, conferred with a warrior at his side, and after
adjusting his head-dress, replied: "I am aware that I have committed a great
crime. I am very sorry for it. My heart is cast down. But I have heard your talk
just made in this council. I have confidence in what you say, and I thank you for
it. I am ready to abide by the terms you ])ro])ose. "
After F"ather Joset had explained to him the terms of the treaty under which
peace had been granted to the Coeur d'Alenes he signed it and the council was
ended.
"Among the chiefs at this council, " according to Kip, "were Polotkin. the head
chief of the Spokanes, whom we formerly held as a prisoner and released — and one
of his sons, the one who visited our camp on the Spokane the daj' his father was
detained. His brother and himself were the Indians who were fired at by the
guard across the river when demanding the release of the old chief. He is one of
the most splendid looking men I have ever seen. He was shot in the arm below
the elbow, and his brother was shot through the body. From what we could learn
of him, he will ]5robably not recover."
One of the hostages taken to Walla Wall.i was Anthony, a Coeur d'Alene chief
who was in the fight with Steptoe. When Lieutenant Gaston fell, he covered his
body with leaves, intending to go back afterward and bury it, but when he returned
the body had been removed.
"I can not close this communication, " says Wright in his report of the council,
"without expressing my thanks to Father Joset. the superior of the Coeur d'Alene
mission, for his zealous and unwearied exertions in bringing all these Indians to a
true understanding of their position. For ten days and nights the father has toiled
incessantly, and only left us this morning after witnessing the fruition of all his
labors."
Conspicuous as ringleaders in the work of inciting the u]3rising were Owhi and
Qualchien, father and son. They were Yakimas, Owhi a brother-in-law of Chief
Kamiaken, and were regarded as two of the worst Indians west of the Rocky moun-
tains. The son was even more notorious than the father, and Colonel Wright was
256 SI'OKANK AND Till'. IMAM) I-.MIMHF.
particularly .■iiixi()\is to secure liini. That di sire was mow to l)e gratified, aii<l a
tragedy was to be enacted on the meadow banks of the Ned-wliuald that would
cliangc its n.ame and associate it forever with as startling an act of military jus-
tice as the annals of Indian warfare can anywhere ])resent.
Ouhi was a conspicuous figure at the great council at Walla Walla in 1855,
where he opposed all <-essioiis of l.iiid to the whites, protesting against the treaties
with great zeal and ability. 'I'li.uiks to Lieutenant Ki|i. who was at the W.ill.a
W.ill.i council and took iu)tes of Owhi's speech, his sentiments have been prcservcil
in history :
"We are talking together," s.iid Owlii on that occasion, ".and the Great Spirit
hears all that we say today. The Great S|)irit g.ive us tiie land .and measured the
land to us. This is the reason that I am afraid to say anything about this land.
I .1111 .ifr.iiil of th<- laws of the Great Spirit. This is the reason of my Iie.irt
being sad. This is the re.ison I cannot give you an .answer. I ,iiii atr.aid of
the Great Spirit. Sh.ill I steal this Land and sell it.' or wh.it sli.ill 1 dor This
is the reason why my heart is sad. The Great Spirit made our friends, hut the
Gre.at Si>irit in.ade our bodies from the e.irth. as if they were different from the
whites. What shall I do? Shall I give the l.ind. which is a part of my body, and
leave myself i)oor .and destitute"' S\\:t\\ I s.iy I will givi- you my hand? I cannot
say so. I am .afraid of the (ireat Spirit. I love my life. The reason I do not
give mv land .iwav is I .am afr.iid of being sent to hell. I love my friends. 1 love my
life. This is the reason why I do not give my Land .iw.iy. I h.ave one word more
to say. Mv i)eo])le arc far aw.iy. They do not know your words. This is the reason
I can not give vou an answer. I show you my he.irt. This is .all I h.ave to say.
After their d.fe.at .it the W.ill.i W.ill.a eouneil. Owlii .Hid his son Qualellicn
cooperated with K.imi.iken to organize the u))rising .md outbreak of the follow-
.ing winter when the Indian agent and sever.il other white men were murdered.
On the evening of the .Spok.me council. Owlii c.ime in .ind surrendered to
Colonel Wright, who recei\ed him in sternness and sent for a priest to act as
interpreter. The colonel h.id .i |)eeuliarly nervous way of i)utting questions.
Wright: "Where did he see me last?"
Priest: "He saw you in his country."
Wright: "Whereabout in his country?"
Priest: "On the Natchess river."
Wright: "Wh.it did he promise me at th.at time?"
I'riest: "Th.at he wmild come in with his people in some d.iys."
()wlii bee.ime p.ile .and confused.
Wright: "Why did he not <lo so?' (.\side: "Tell the officer of the guard to
bring a file of his men; and Captain Kirkham, you will iuive some iron shackles
made ready.")
Owhi hung his hr.id .and lookial still morr confused.
Priest: "He s.iys he did do so."
Wright: "Where is he from now?"
Priest: "I'rom the mouth of the Spokane."
Wright: "How long has he been away from there?"
Priest: "Two days."
Wright: "Where is (^u.ilehien ? '
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 257
Priest: "At the Diouth of the Si)okane."
\\'right: "Tell Owhi tiiat I will .send a message to Qualchien. Tell him he, too,
shall send a message, and if Qualchien does not join me before I cross the Snake
river, in four days I will hang Owhi."
When this communication was made to Owhi, we are informed by Kii), he ap-
peared to lose all power over himself. He sank on the ground and perspiration
came out on him in large drops. He took out a book of prayers, and in much
confusion turned over the leaves for a moment, looking at the pictures apparently
without knowing what lie was doing, and handed it to the priest who was standing
by him. He was then taken off by the guard and put in irons. When the mes-
senger went oft' Owhi said he did not think Qualchien would come in.
Captain Keyes has left a graphic description of the surrender of Qualchien
and the quick resulting tragedy. About I'S o'clock on the day following the plac-
ing of Owhi in irons, two Indians and a fine-looking squaw emerged from a canyon
tuar the camp. The three rode abreast, and a little distance behind them rode
an Indian hunchback. The three chief jjersonages were gailv dressed and ap-
l^roached with a dashing air. They wore a great deal of scarlet, and the squaw
flis])layed two ornamental scarfs, passing over the right shoulder and under the
left arm. Across the front of her saddle she carried a long lance, the handle eom-
jjletely wound with bright beads, and from the ends of which hung two long
tijjpets of l)eaver skins. The two braves bore rifles, and one, evidently the leader,
carried an ornamented tomahawk. With exceeding boldness they directed their
horses to Colonel Wright's tent.
Ca]itain Keyes pulled aside the tent flap and said: "Colonel, we have distin-
guished visitors here. " When the colonel came out he instantly recognized Qual-
chien, who daringly entered into conversation with him, retaining his rifle by his
side. Qualchien's bearing was so defiant that Captain Keyes, fearing that the out-
law meditated violence, placed himself on guard and stood alert to sjjring on the
Indian at the slightest demonstration.
Presently Colonel Wright mentioned Owhi's name and Qualchien started and
exclaimed. "Car.''" (where). "Owhi mittite yawa" (Owhi is over there), re-
plied the colonel.
At these words Qualchien seemed to be half paralyzed. He acted in the dazed
way of a man who had been stunned by a physical blow. He kept repeating,
mechanically, "Owhi mittite yawa !" "Owhi mittite yawa !" Then he made a
motion as if he would use his rifle, and made towards his horse, but was seized
by the guard and disarmed. He carried a fine jiistol capped and loaded, and
plenty of ammunition.
Colonel Wright commanded liim to go with the guard, and he at first assented,
but tiien luld back and was pulled along. He was a fine specimen of physical
manhood, with a broad chest, muscular limbs and small hands and feet. By the
time he had reached the guard tent he was recovered from his semi-stupor and
fought desjierately for his freedom. It required six men to tie his hands and
feet, although he suffered at the time from an uidiealed wound in the lower part
of his body. The subsequent proceedings were startlingly summary. Wright
recorded them in his official report in a single sentence: "Qualchien came to me
at 9 this morning, and at 9:15 a. m. he was hung."
258 SPOKANK AM) THK INLAND I.MIMKI.
Hut letters and reports liy others of liis coiiiiuand liave preserved for us a more
dramatic setting. Wlicn Qualcliien's fate was made known to Iiim, he fell to curs-
ing Kaniiaken. He was dragged to a neighboring tree, but when they attempted
to place the rope around his neck, the struggle was renewed, and bound as he
was, it became necessary to throw him on his back before the noose could be i)ut
over his head, he shrieking all the while: "Cojxt six I (stop my friends). Wake
memaloose nika ! (do not kill me); nika potlateh liiyu chickamin, hiyu knitan (I
will give much money, a great many horses) ; spore nika memaloose, nika hiyu
siwash silex (if you kill me a great many Indians will be angry); copet six!" In
spite of his protests the rope was run over the limb of a tree and he was strung
up, shouting curses on Kaniiaken with his last breath. Among tliose who pulled
with eagerness on the rope were two miners who had been with the party attacked
by Qualciiien and his band in the Colville country a few months before.
It developed a little Liter that Qu.-ilchien had been the victim of some act of
treachery, for he had not met the messenger sent out in search of him, but had
either come of his own accord or been lured in by the Indian hunchback, whose
expression when Qualchien was hauled up indicated a devilish satisfaction. And
as soon as the deed was over the hunchback galloped to the upper end of the en-
campment where he related with savage joy to his people the part he had played
in guiding the victim into the hands of Wright. The squaw who. a few minutes
before, had ridden in so airily, proved to be Qualchien's wife, a daughter of Polot-
kin. iShe was suflfered to depart, and rode off with Qualchien's companion. It was
su])])osed that Qualchien had been sent in by Kamiaken, as a si)y, to learn what
Colonel Wright would do with the ringleaders of the outbreak, and the victim
looked upon the great war chief of the Yakimas as the author of his deatli.
"He died like a coward," wrote an officer who h;id \ritnessed the tragedy, "and
very differently from the manner in which the Indians generally met their fate.
So loud indeed were his cries that they were heard by Owhi, who was confined
near by." In disgust the old chief disowned him, saying, "He is not my son, but
the son of Kamiaken." meaning that he had followed the counsel of the Yakima
leader.
It became bruited around the next day that Qualchien had a large sum of money
on his person, and his body was exhumed to prevent the treasure falling into the
hands of the Indians, but little of value was discovered.
"In all the battles, forays and disturb.inees in Washington territory," said
Kip, "Qualchien has been one of the leading s|)irits. The influence for evil whicli
he exerted was probably greater even than that of eitlier Owhi or Kamiaken. Of
the three, he was the most ;iddicted to fighting and bloodshed. He has been di-
rectly charged with the murder of nine white men at different times. In the action
of March 1, 1856, on White river, Puget Sound district, Qualchien was present
witli fifty Yakima warriors, .and of these seven wiTe killed."
Tiiree d.iys after the hanging of Qtialchien, Owhi. his father, made a dash for
freedom. Lieutenant Morgan, riding by his side, fired three sliots from his re-
volver, .all taking effect, and a dragoon liastrried tn the udiiiulcd chief and put a
bullet tbrougli his he.ad.
"Nothing has been (lon( in tliis campaign," said Lieutenant Ki|), "so effectually
to secure the peace of the eoiintry as the deatli of these two chiefs."
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND ExMPlRE 259
In cxi)laiiation of tlie hanging of Quakliiin, Colonel Wright said in his report
to his superior at Fort Vancouver: "He has been actively engaged in all the mur-
ders, robberies and attacks upon the white people since 1855, both east and west
of the Cascade mountains. He was with the party who attacked the miners on
tile We-nat-che river in June last, and was severely wounded; but recovering
rapidly, he has since been committing assaults on our people whenever an oppor-
tunity offered. "
I have been unable to find in Colonel Wright's reports any account of the
hanging of other Indians on Hangman creek. Lieutenant MuUan mentions briefly
tiiat "a number of Pelouses at this camp expiated their many crimes upon a gal-
lows erected for the purpose," and Kip is a little more circumstantial. "In the
middle of the day," says that authority, "two Pelouse Indians came in, bringing
a letter from the priest. They were followed shortly after by seven or eight
more. The whole party were at once taken to the guard-house and ironed. At
evening they were brought up for examination, and being convicted of having
been engaged in various atrocities, six of them were at once hung. One of them
was proved to be the Indian who killed Sergeant Williams at Snake river, when,
after being wounded in Colonel Steptoe's affair, he was trying to make his way
back to Walla Walla." These, in addition to Qualchien, and the Indian hanged
in the Spokane valley, made a total of eight who died by the noose in the Spokane
country. Four more were hanged on the Palouse, and four at Walla Walla. Ac-
cording to Wright, eleven Indians were hanged in all, but other rejKirts show a
total of sixteen and that is probably the correct count.
While the main command rested on Hangman creek. Colonel Wright dispatched
three companies of dragoons to the Steptoe battlefield, distant about ten miles, to
recover the remains of the officers and men who had fallen in that engagement and
the two mountain howitzers which had been buried on the evening of the memor-
able night retreat to Snake river.. Lieutenant Kip, who participated in tliis sad
mission, thus describes the solemn duty:
"On reaching the battlefield proper, we halted and encamped, and picketing
our animals in good grass, began to search for the remains of the men there so
inhumanly butchered, and the guns lost in that desperate encounter.
"The guns having been well buried, were found as they had been left, undis-
turbed. Passing along the slope of the hill, we came upon a small ravine in which
lay the graves of four men: Captain Taylor, a half-breed, and two dragoons.
Silently and mournfully- we disinterred their remains, and securelv packing them
bore them from the field to our camp, in order to transport them to Walla Walla,
there to give them jjrojjcr burial with military honors.
"Silently surveying the ground from tlie top of this hill, a scene of sadness
and desolation met the eye at every turn. Broken and burnt fragments of all that
had once constituted the equipage of this command lay scattered to the right and
left, and everywhere were to be seen the unmistakable signs of a relentless savage
foe who liad determined on the utter annihilation of this small command.
"But one thing remained not totally destroyed, a jjair of shafts of one of the
buried guns. Why this had escaped the general conflagration of such things as the
Indians could not usefully appropriate was a wonder to us all.
"This, with our rude means at hand, we framed and fashioned into a cross,
260 SI'OKANF, AM) Till, INT. WD l.Ml'lliK
which wc erected 111)011 tlic battlefield as a Christian token tu the honored dead, and
to point the straiiffer to the spot where brave men bravely met their fate; and as
each ortieer and soldier lingered near the s|)ot. and heard rehearsed the sad recital
of that memorable drfeat, tile silent tiar stole down many a bronzed elieek that had
confronted death and bra\ed danger upon many a tented field."
"Poor Gaston." exel.iims Ki)). "My parting with him was at \\'est Point, when
full of lifi .ind sjiirits and bright anticipations of his future career. My last recol-
leetion of him is in his gray cadet uniform. I never saw him after, until I thus
stood by his remains today. He was every inch a soldier; and when, during the last
year, ill health weighed him down, and he feared the a])))roaeli of that feebleness
whieli would withdraw him from his duties, his military spirit seemed to be the
strongest imjiulsi- he felt. He often expressed the hope that he might die in battle,
and thus it was that his wish was gratified. He had a soldier's death, and will have
a soldier's burial and grave, —
" 'The fresh turf, and not the feverish bed.' "
CHAPTER XXIX
WRIGHT'S RETURN MARCH TO WALLA WALLA
TELLS THE PALOUSES THEY ARE RASCALS AND DESERVE TO BE HUNG TREATS THEM AS
OTTLAWS, BUT PUTS THEM ON PROBATION HANGS FOUR AS A WARNING TO THE
OTHERS "CUTMOUTH JOHN" A CONSPICUOUS FIGURE MILITARY HONORS FOR THE
(iALLANT DEAD LIEUTENANT Klp's PREDICTION "tHE WAR IS CLOSED " COLONEL
Wright's final report.
H.W'IXC; practically completed his campaign, Colonel Wright now broke
caiiip on Hangman creek and began the retrograde march to Walla Walla
111! the iiKiniiiig of Se])tenilur 26. On the evening of the twenty-ninth tlic
command encamped at a point well down on the Palouse river, on what appeared to
have been an old battleground of the Indians, arrow heads and remains of other
weapons being scattered about.
A large number of Palouse Indians came in the next morning, with their families,
and the Colonel determined to hold a "council," as he termed these somewhat one-
sided conferences with the broken and humiliated tribes. The Palouses having
gathered before his tent, and the interpreter being ready, the Colonel delivered this
gracious and complimentar\' address:
"Tell them they are a set of rascals and deserve to be hung; that if I should
hang them all, I should not do wrong. Tell them I have made a written treaty
with the Coeur d'Alenes and the Spokanes, but I will not make a written treaty with
tluni ; and if I catch one of them on the other side of the Snake river, I will hang
him. Tell them they shall not go into the Coeur d'Alene country, nor the Spokane
country, nor shall they allow the Walla Walla Indians to come into their country.
If they behave themselves, and do all tliat I direct them, I will make a written
treaty with them next spring. If I do, there will be no more war between us. If
they do not submit to these terms, I will make war on them; and if I come here .again
to war, I will iiang them all, men. women and children.
"Tell them tliat five moons ago two of tluir trilic kilh-d some miners. The mur-
derers must immediately be delivered up."
After the Palouses had weighed these words, thev conferred among themselves,
and jiresently one of them came forward. The other liad slipped away, apparently
to the great annoyance of his tribe, who, to save themselves were eager to comply
with the victor's conditions.
Colonel Wright: "Tell them they must deliver up the six men who stole our
beef cattle at Walla Walla."
261
262 SPOKANK AM) TIIF. INLAND K.Ml'lUE
This demand met witli (luick compliaiicf, and tin- oifiiidcrs were brought furw.ird
and handed over to the guard.
Colonel Wright continued: "Tell them they must allow all white mm to pass
unmolested through their eountry, aiul nuist deliver u|> to me one chief and four
warriors, with their families, to go with me to Walla Walla as hostages."
.VII these terms were accepted by the unhapjjy and terror-stricken Palouses, and
then, to make the lesson more im])res-,ive, four of them — the murderer and three
others who had been selected as notorious marauders — were marched to a tree sev-
er.al liundrid yards distant and hanged.
The return to Walla Walla was made without notable incident, the command
arriving tliere October ."), after an absence of just sixty marching days. As it
marched into the iiirt. "Cutmoutli .lulin" was by far its most conspieunus figure,
cl.id in a red blanket, a large skin cap upon his head, and in his hand a long lance
from the eiul of which dangled the scalp lie had taken in the battle of the Four Lakes.
When the troo])s readied the |);irade ground the eoliinin liallril. the r.-mks o|)ene(i.
and Colonel .Mansfield, the inspector general of the department, who had arrived a
few days before, made a thorough inspection. There was nothing about the com-
mand, says Ki)), of the "pomp and eireuinstanee of glorious war." During two
months no one had slejjt uiuler roof, and all were begrimed with mud. rain and dust.
The .artillery and infantry wore blui- flannel shirts, drawn over their uniforms and
belted .at the waist. The dragoons li.ad a similar dress of gray fl.mnel. The officers
li.id .idojjted the same, with slouched hats. The only marks of their rank were the
.shoulder-strap sewed on to the flannel. Yet all this was showing the reality of serv-
ice. If there was little displ.ay of uniforms, the arms were in perfect order, and we
believe the troops had never been in ,a higher state of discipline or a more perfect
condition for action.
(Juoting from tlic same ollieer's Jouriial:
October 7th. — Today we turned to more solemn duties. At ten o'clock took |)laee
the burial of Cajitain Taylor, Lieutenant CJaston .and the remains of the men which
had been found on Colonel Steptoe's battleground. It was from this jiost they li.ad
m.irehed forth, and here they were to be laid to their rest. They were, of course,
buried with military honors, the ceremony being invested with all the p.ageantry
ivhieii w.is possible, to show res|)ect to the memory of our g.all.ant comrades. All the
odieers, thirty-nine in luimber, .and the troojis at the ))ost, .amounting to «00 (rein-
forcements having arriv<'d since our departure), look p.art in the ceremonies. The
horses of the dead, dr.ipi'd in bl.iek. having on tin in llir oflieers' swords and boots,
were led behiiul the coffins. The remains were t.aken .about half a mile from the post
and there interred. Three volleys were fired over them, and we left them where
day .after d;iy the notes of the bngli- will lie borne o\ir their gr.aves. while we cherish
their memories ;is those wlin laid down (Ik ir young lixes in the b.ittlelirld for their
country.
With iirnphetic foresight this gifted young oflieer .added: "This iiumeiise tract
of s|)len(lid country over which we m.arehed, is now opened to the white man, and the
time is not f.ar distant when settlers will begin to occupy it, .and the f.armer will dis-
cov( r lli.il he e.m rc.a)) his h.arvcst. .and llif miner explore its ores Mitliont d.am'-er
from the former savage foes. '
But buoyant as were these predictions, the jjrogress of fifty vears has brought
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 263
a realization immeasurably beyond their expectations. Opulent cities, prosperous
towns, productive fields and pleasant orchards cover the land which then lay wild
and savage. Railroads have everywhere supplanted the Indian trails, and the red-
man's campfire has given way to the firesides of more than 100,000 homes.
I can not close this chapter without a few words of feeble tribute to our gallant
and ever efficient regular army. We who now possess this pleasant land in peace
and prosperity owe an unextinguishable debt of gratitude to the courage, devotion
and self-sacrifice of its officers and men. Their work is ended, and save a mere hand-
full of survivors still spared to us by the relentless hand of Time, the}' have passed
to their long reward. Some fell in later Indian wars of the west; others were called
to a greater theater of conflict and served their country with valor in the civil war.
Yet others passed into peaceful pursuits and contributed notably to the development
of the country and its resources. Soldiers of Steptoe and Wright, if living still, we
render our salute. If resting beneatii the turf, we bow in homage to yoar honored
memory.
Under date of September 30, 1858, I find Colonel Wright's last word on the
campaign. It was written from his camp on the Palouse river, en route to Walla
Walla, and addressed to the assistant adjutant-general, headquarters of the depart-
ment of the Pacific, Fort Vancouver, W. T. :
"!^ir: Tlie war is closed. Peace is restored with the Coeur d'Alenes, Spokanes
and Palouses. After a vigorous campaign the Indians have been entirely subdued,
and were most happy to accept such terms of peace as I might dictate.
"Results
"1. Two battles were fought by the troops under my command, against the
combined forces of the Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes and Palouses, in both of which the
Indians were signally defeated, with a severe loss of chiefs and warriors, either
killed or wounded.
"•i. The capture of 1,000 horses and a large number of cattle from the hostile
Indians, all of wliich were either killed or api)ropriated to the service of the United
States.
"3. Many barns filled with wheat or oats, also several fields of grain, with
numerous caches of vegetables, dried berries and kamas, all destroyed or used by the
troops.
"-t. The Yakima chief, Owhi in irons, and the notorious war-chief Qualchien
hung. The murderers of the miners, the cattle-stealers, etc (in all eleven Indians),
all hung.
"The Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes and Palouses entirely subdued, and sue most
abjectly for peace on any terms.
"6. Treaties made with the above-named nations; they have restored all prop-
ertv which was in their possession, belonging either to the United States or indi-
viduals ; they have promised that all white people shall travel through their country
unmolested, and that no hostile Indians shall be allowed to pass tlirough or remain
among them.
"7. The delivery to the officer in CDunnand of the United States troops of one
chief and four men. with their families, from each of the above-named tribes to be
264 SI'OKAM. AM) I III. IM.WI) I.MI'IKK
taken to Fort Walla Walla, and luld as hostages for the future good conduct of their
respective nations.
"9. The recovery of two inouiitaiii howitzers abandoned hy the troops under
Lieutenant-Colonel Steptoe.
"Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
"G. Wright,
"Colonel Ninth Infantry. Commanding."
CHAPTER XXX
REMARKABLE EARLY HISTORY OF SPOKANE COUNTY
FIRST CREATED IN 1858 AREA OF 75,000 SQUARE MILES PUBLIC OFFICES GO BEG-
GING OLD PINKNEY CITY THE COUNTY SEAT FIRST LEGISLATOR IIURDERED BY
INDIANS FIRST POLITICAL CONVENTION UNION SENTIMENT STRONG COURT
HOUSE OF logs; had been a SALOON HIGH PRICES IN THE 60S GOLD DISCOVERED
ON THE PEND d'oREILLE MILITARY POST ESTABLISHED AT FORT COLVILLE CALI-
FORNIA VOLl'NTEERS A BAD LOT GRAND MILITARY BALL AT THE FORT PIONEER
DISTILLERY RAIDED EARLY DAY EXECUTIONS, LEGAL AND OTHERWISE.
THE early history of Spokane county lias connected with it events of an
extraordinary character. Four times was it created by legislative act.
Twice it was not organized by the agents appointed for that purpose.
Once it had, after organization, a short and jjrecarious existence, and was merged
into Stevens county ; and tlie fourth creation was followed by the political com-
munity of recent years." — From a manuscript by VV. P. Winans, who served two
terms, beginning in 1862, as auditor of the original county of Spokane, when the
county seat was Pinkney City.
With free-handed disregard of actual needs and conditions, the early legisla-
tures of Washington territory parceled out the interior into county forms long
before towns or even crossroads settlements had come into existence. A number
of these counties never had other than mere legal or fictional being, and in that
class for several years, belonged the first comity of S]iokane. attemjited to be set
up at the session of 1857-8. when a bill was enacted .January 29. "to create and
organize Spokane county," as follows:
"Be it enacted. That all that portion of the county of Walla Walla embraced
witliin the following lioundaries, to wit: Commencing at the mouth of the Snake
river, following up said river mid channel to the forty-sixth jjarallel of north lati-
tude; thence east along said parallel fn the .summit of flic Rockt/ mountains ; thence
north along said summit to the forty-ninth ]iarallel of north latitude; thence west
along said ]iarallel to the Columbia river; thence do\^^l mid channel of said river
to the place of beginning; the same is hereby constituted and organized into a sepa-
rate county, to be known and called Spokane county.
"That the county seat of the said eounty is liereliy tem)iorarily located on the
land claim of Angus McLeod.
"That Robert Douglass. .John Owen and \\'illi/nii MeCreary are herebv ap-
pointed a board of eounty commissioners; and that Patrick McKenzie is herebv
265
266 Sl'OKANK AND TllL INLAND E.Ml'lUK
ajjpointcd slierifT; and tli.it I.ifavftte Alexander is lu-reliy a])i)()intcd cDuiity audi-
tor."
Vast, wild and uiiti iiaiitid by civilization was the region embraced within the
desijin.itfd houiidaries — a .strelcli of Jilain and luountaiii, of j)r;iirie and forest, of
jilaeid lakes .iiid foaniing torrents, 200 miles widi' and nearly K)0 miles long, eom-
jirisiiig an aria of more than 7.").0IH) s(jiiare miles, and with searei-ly one white
person to eacii thousand s<|uare miles of territory. Sueli feeble and scattered set-
tlements as then had existence were found in the Colville valley. .Settlers along
the Spokani . there were none of the white race. The fnilians were warlike, inso-
lent and JigfiTessive. and the county in fact was conjured into fictional being on
the eve of the .allied outbreak of the Indian tribes nortii of Snake river.
I'liblie ottic(^ went a begging then in (.isteni Washington, and found no takers
in the remote, unsettled ,and moneyless county of S])okane ; for the otiieials named
in the first legislative act failed to qualify or to organize county government; .and
a year Liter the legislative assembly, which then met annually, made a second effort.
An act of .January 18. ISoQ, named Robert Douglass, .Fohn McDougald and Angus
MeC'loud as commissioners of the ))roposed new county. Thomas Urown was desig-
nated to serve as slierifl', Patrick MeKeiizie as auditor, Thomas Stensgar as probate
judge, and Solomon Pelkie justice of the jieace — all to hold office until tlie next
regular election, or until their successors should be elected and qualify. No loca-
tion for a county seat was specified.
This attcmjit was as futile .as the first, but undaunted, the legislature tried
again. After the brilliant e.amp.aign of 1858, and thorough pacification of the
country by the troops under Colonil (ieorge Wright, it i)assed another act. in
January, 18(iO, to reest.ablisli the county of Spokane. The boundaries were defined
as before, but this time the county seat was temporarily located "on the land
claim of Dr. li.ates." in the ('(ihille \ alley. "Few of the vast ))opulation of Spo-
kane county today know that while its official organization dates b.ack to a time
but little more than thirty years .ago. h.aving been carved — .a small and then insig-
nificant portion — out of Stevens county, yet there was a county of Spokane estab-
lished by an act of the territorial legislature of 18G0," s.ays Attorney .lohn B.
Slater in .an article written after a search of the old county records at Colville. "It
was organized in .April of th.at year, and flourislied for four years." In honor
then of the gallant ini nmry of Isa.ic F. Stevens, first territorial governor, who
had fallen in one of the early battles of the eivil war, the legislature changed the
county's name to Stevens.
The initial entrv in tlu lirst book of neonls of this original county of Spokane
".No. I. Received of William II. W.atson. ■■^'J."), in full for house .and lot .and
all things belonging thereto.
"Pinkncy City, W. T., ,)uly 11, 1800.
(Signed) "('. I.. Thomas.
"Recorded .Inly 1^. 1860, G o'clock p. m.
"H. II. Ro(ii:i!S,
"Count 1/ Auditor."
SPOKANE AXD THE IXLAXD EMPIRE 267
And on page 'i of hook ], of the records of Spokane county, appear, as follows,
the first minutes of the proceedings of the hoard of county commissioners:
"In pursuance of an act of the legislative assembly of the territory of Wash-
ington, jiassed January 17, 18G0 (a certified copy of which is attached to page 1
of this record), the county of Spokane was organized, and the following named
persons were respectively sworn into office and executed bond according to law,
viz:
",J. W. Seaman, James Hays and Jacques Dumas, as county commissioners;
John W'ynn, as sheriff; R. H. Rogers, as auditor; R. H. Douglas, as treasurer; J.
R. Bates, as justice of the peace, and F. Wolff, as coroner.
"In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and private seal (there
being no official seal provided), this 7th day of May, 1860.
"R. H. Rogers (L. S.)
"Auditor in and for Spokane county, W. T."
"It seems." says Mr. Slater, "that Rogers and Douglas became mixed in the
process of qualification, and, according to the fact as stated by a witness to the
ceremonv, Douglas, by accident, signed and (jualified by oath u]5on the blank form
provided for Rogers, the latter, at the same time, making the same mistake with
reference to the blank form provided for Douglas, as treasurer. The spectators
laughed heartily over the mistake, and tlie two gentlemen accepted the change as
a sort of .joke, although afterward, it is said, they became bitter enemies.
"On the 8th of ^lay. 1860. the board met and designiated Pinkney City the
county seat, wliich was the town or trading post adjoining the site of Fort Col-
ville, three miles north of the present site of Colville. Two election precincts were
established and election notices directed to be posted. John L. Houck was ap-
|)oiiited the first road supervisor, and given charge of all the public highways in
the county, which then extended from ^^'enatchee on the west to Helena, Montana,
on the east, and from Lewiston, Idaho, on the south to the British line on the
north.
"At the election held in June, 1860. George Taylor was elected to succeed
.Jacques Dumas as county commissioner, who had drawn a short term and was
elected chairman of the board. As nearly as can be ascertained from the records,
the officers elected for the first term were: Treasurer, R. H. Douglas; assessor,
John Gunn, who failed to qualify, and J. T. Demarce was appointed to succeed
him; auditor, J. R. Bates; and sheriff, F. Wolff.
"On April 11, 1861, James Hays resigned the office of county commissioner,
and Robert Bruce was appointed his successor.
"The first money received by the county was -$'200 paid by Chamberlain &
Walker for a license to vend ardent spirits in Pinkney City. This was immediately
followed by licenses to five others for the same place, a living evidence that Pink-
ney City was a lively town.
"The population of the place is said to have been nearly a thousand people.*
All the business was along one street, and extended along each side of the thor-
oughfare for nearly a mile. The commissioners, in order to provide anqile fire
*Beii Burgunder's recollection is that it never excpeclctl 200 or 300.
268 SPOKAM. AM) Till: INLAND F.MI'II{H
protection and pure water for domestic jiurposes for the town, a])])ropriated -tlOO
to be expended in digging a well in the center of the street, and as nearly the
center of the town as possible. The well was dug, but it is said the water was never
used except for slaking tin thirst iif the cavalry Imrsi > from the post nearby.
Today there is not a sign of tiic wi II remaining, and .ill that would indicate that
once there might have been human inli.ihitants upon this historic spot is an occa-
sioh.il dejiression in tlie earth, the remains of oh! cellars and basements, under
buildings that iiandled the trade of the country,
"The eonimissioners' journal was ke|)t bv li.iiids not train<ii to eirrie.il work,
but the good old pioneers did the best they could for Spokane county, as is evi-
denced by some of the proceedings which commemorate the stirring times. The
most influential men were elected to oftice, and. whetlu r or not they obeyed the
laws themselves, tluy niadi- it ap|)i ar by the records that tin v were especially
solicitous that all others make gocd under existing statuti s. Once they m.ide a
record apjilauding the auditor because lu- had been diligent in enforcing jjayment
of license money for the ))rivilege of kee])ing saloon.
"The proceedings of the Sjjokaiie eounty commissiomrs cover only about thirty-
five p.iges, the last being the record of the meeting held on November tiO, 1863,
wlicii Thomas Stensgar. .lolin l'. llofstetter and Robert 13ruce were commis-
sioners. .\t this meeting tin following record was madi-: 'The auditor was in-
structed to writi- to Dr. Tobey, representative, requesting hiui to get a bill |);issed
immediately to tax Chinamen, the tax to be .fl.."!!) a month, or .$f.50 a (piarter, to
be collected by the sheriff, .and he be allowed ■■■iO per cent on what be collects, and
the treasurer and auditor their usual fees, as in other |)ul)lie moneys; also have
Stevens county .attached to this (Spokane) county, the citizens having failed to
organize.' " F.xpl.m.atory of this List instruction to Re))resentative Toby, it may
be ex|)l.-iiii((l th.at the legisl.iture. .it tlir previous session, li.-id cut off :i section of
W.ill.i W.all.a county and called it .Stevens.
.Mr. .Skater found that tin- first gr.and jury of .Spok.inc enuiitv w.is couvincd
ill .lime, I860, by Judge W'illi.iiii .Strong. W In n it ciiin In p.iying the jury the
connnissioners objected upon the ground that it w.is tin- duty of the gener.il gov-
ernment to p.iy its court officials, .and the court w.is obliged to exercise his judicial
jjrerogative in .1 court order to com))el payment. The connnissioners paid the bill,
but iii.idr ;i iiiiiiulr of the f.iet tli.it llnir .let of nludiriiee w.as exercised iiiulcr |)ro-
test.
Not withstanding no jirovision li.id lircii m.-idc in the Irgisl.itive act for repre-
sentation froin the new county in tin- assembly at Olympia. the voters elected W.
II. W.itsiin .it the first election. He appeared at the eipital. ready to t.ake the
o.atli .iiiil 1 nti-r ui)on legislative duties, but the assembly dcelined to si-.it liiin. As
a sort of consolation salve, liowi \ rr. he was elected doorkeeper of the house. While
returning on horseback, from the capital to Pinkney City, in the sjiring of 1861,
Watson w.is murdered by a .Spokane Indian, Ci-sit-shee, between Walker's prairie
and C'am.as i)rairic. Walker wore a fine gold watch, coveting which the Indi.an fol-
lowed him from his niglit encampment, and found on the Spokane's person after
tin diseoverv of the crime, led to liis arrest on the Spokane. He was taken to
the county seat by .Sheriff Woltf. and bound over for trial by .lustiee of the Peace
Cvrus Hall. The crime and the ex.ainination aroused intense public feeling, and
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 269
the little court room of the justice was filled with citizens and soldiers from Fort
Colvillc. Immediately after the examination a mob formed, took the prisoner
from the sheriff, and hanged him from the cross beam of the double gate before
the brewery. JiLstice in those days seems to have been expeditious and cheap,
for the total cost to the county of the arrest, trial, conviction and execution, all
transpiring within two days, was only thirty dollars.
J. R. Bates, the first representative from Spokane countj^, was elected in July,
1861. Taking warning from the tragic fate of ^Ir. Watson, he went properly
"heeled" with a Colt's dragoon revolver with gun stock attachment.
W. P. Winans, who lived for thirteen years in the Colville valley, and held
various offices of public trust when Pinkney City was the county seat, kept a
journal in which were recorded events and incidents on the day of their occurrence.
From that journal, and aid given by such pioneers as S. F. Sherwood, Francis
Wolff, John U. Hofstetter, C. H. ^Montgomery, L. W. Meyers, Benjamin Bur-
gunder, James Monaghan, George McCrea and Mrs. Christina ^McDonald Will-
iams, !Mr. Winans has written an invaluable manuscript history of early days in
the Colville valley and the Spokane country. By courtesy of Ross R. Brattain of
Spokane, the writer has had access to a copy of the Winans manuscript, and from
it gleans many interesting and important facts about men and events, full fifty
years ago.
Construction of the first brewery, at Pinkney City, was commenced in 1860 by
.John Shaw and a man named Berry, and finished by John U. Hofstetter in 1861.
Pinkney City, which was built just across the creek from Fort Colville reserve,
was named in honor of the commanding officer of the fort, Major Pinkney Lou-
gen beel.
In the winter of 1861. Mr. Carpenter, a clerk employed in the store of 01m-
stead & Co., was killed by Perote. The murderer was arrested and taken to the
nearest jail, at Vancouver, and the records of the commissioners show that on
Ajjril 10, 1861, Sheriff Francis Wolff was allowed ■$-t,S8.25 for expenses and mile-
age of the trip. Another county official, R. H. Rogers, presented a claim of
.$316.50 for carrying the poll books to \'ancouver, containing the vote on joint coun-
cilman; but the commissioners, regarding the claim as excessive, allowed a mile-
age rate of 30 cents on the 470 miles to Vancouver, and awarded Rogers $11'1.
The winter of 1861-62 was unusually severe. Mr. Winans recorded the fol-
lowing temperatures in his journal: January l.*}, 30 below zero; January 17, 33
below; January 18, 30 below. And snow from two to four feet deep. There was
not a day in that month that the mercury did not fall below zero.
"Marcli ^2'i., 1862, mail carrier for \\'alla Walla came back, unable to get
through ; re])orted snow three to five feet deep on Spokane jjlains, about Willow
s])rings. Joe !Mason started on snowshoes, became snow blind, was found by In-
dians and brought back to .Spokane river.
"April 1, 1862, J. W. Seaman got through from Walla Walla; left there two
weeks ago; reported snow then 12 to 15 inches deep, wood .$25 per cord. Brought
news from the States up to November 27th (more than four months old)."
It is believed that the following is the first rtcord of a political I'oiiveiition held
in the Spokane country:
270 SPOKANE AND THE JNJ.AND l.Ml'lUE
Spokank County Convkntion
Tile L'liion county convention met at the courthouse, Pinkney City, W. T.,
.luiu It, 1864, for the purpose of nominating candidates for the coming election.
J. it. JJates was called to the chair, and W . P. Winans elected secretary.
Nominations: — For representative, li. 1'. Yantis ; for sheriff, I-. T. .Marshall;
for treasurer, .1. It. Bates; for auditor. W. P. Winans; for probate judge, John
Wynne; for coroner, N. 11. Scranton ; for county connnissioners, Robert Bruce and
John U. Hofstetter; for justice of the jjeace, D. H. Ferguson.
After the nominations the following resolutions were read and adopted:
"Rksolvkd, That our Representative be instructed to use his best efforts to
have a treaty made with the Indians in our county, and to have the public surveys
extended over our county as soon as possible.
"Resolvko, That he use his best endeavors to i)roinote the welfare of the
county, the mining interests in particular ; and to use his influence to have the
mail route reestablished from Fort Colville and Walla Walla. Also to use his
influence toward having the capital removed from Olympia to Walla Walla.
"Resolved, That we regret the jirescnt deplorable condition of our country
in its struggle to maintain its existence, and we heartily endorse the policy of the
goveriuiient in its execution of the laws, ;ind we rejoice in the success of the Fed-
eral Anns.
"Resolved, That we will use our best efforts to sustain the government in its
lircsent struggle to establish its supremacy over all the land."
These proceedings were in mass convention. The resolutions, as .Mr. \\'iiians
recalls, were written by Henry \\'ellington. ".i man of education and refinement
who could command attention in any .-issembly. He moved to the Okanogan valley
about thirty years ago, dying in June, 1903, loved, honored and respected by all
wild knew him, for his lofty character and sterling worth."
At the election, July li, 1'2I votes were jjolled in the county, and ,ill those
nominated at the June conventidii. with the exception by B. F. Yantis, for repre-
sentative, were elected. Y.-intis had only thirty-eight votes, his opponent, Charles
H. Campfield, forty-eight; but Yantis went to 01yni])ia. where his family resided,
contested the seat before the legislative assembly, .-md won.
Of necessity a county so poor and unsettled as the early d.ay Spokane had
to make shift with ;i jirimitive courthouse. At their April session, 1861, the com-
missioners bought friiTii Charles R. Allen, for $500, a log building 20x40, that
had been used as a saloon. This cabin housed the government for five years, and
was then sold to C. H. Montgomery for .fl.200 in county warrants, worth then
about 2r> cents on tin rlnllar; and on I'ebruary 23, 1867, a larger log building was
bought from R. 11. Douglass for if'.'iOO in coin, or $066.66 in paper. This second
building continued to be the courthouse until the town was moved to its present
location, the site of the niodt rn Colville.
By legislative act of .F.-muary 3, 1862, a judicial district was created to cover
Spokane and Missoula counties, and court met for the first time at Pinkney City,
.luly 28, 1862. with Judge E. P. 01i))li.int ])residing; W. P. Winans, clerk; J. J.
McCiillvra, United St.-ites attorney: S. li. I'ai'go, prosccutiii;,'- attorney: T,. T. Mar-
shall, sheriff; and Salucius Garfielde attorney.
«-
KETTLE FALLS OF THE COLU.MHIA
As sketched by the Stevens' Expedition in 1S5U
ULIi IICDSOX'S llAV (.'Uill'ANY
POST AT KETTLE FALLS,
EKEfTEn rx is;??,
OLU JiUUSuN'S HAY (_(JMPAXY AT
FORT rOLVlLLK, AS XT AP-
PEAR KM JX ]SS7
IXTEENATIOXAL BOUiXDAEY BE-
TWEEN WASHIXGTON AND
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
The little brunette stands on the
United States Side
KETTLE FALLS AS THEY APPEAR TODAY
r"
THE NEW YORK
[PUBLIC LIBRAKY
»,»T»«. LfwlX
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 271
Only annual sessions were held, and when court convened in June, 1863, for
a two-day session, it was presided over by Judge J. E. Wyche, with not a lawyer
in sight. Mrs. Mary J. Walters was granted the first divorce in the county. Of
a verity hath it been said that "great oaks from little acorns grow." The divorce
crop has kept well apace with the general step of growth and progress.
Then, as now, expectation rose and fell with the prospect of immigration and
fuller development of the potential resources of the land; and the intelligence was
welcomed when Captain John Mullan, surveyor and builder of the MuUan road
from Walla Walla to Fort Benton, wrote in June, 1862, that four Missouri river
ste;iraboats had arrived at Benton, with 350 passengers from St. Louis, en route
to Bitter Root, Deer Lodge and Walla Walla valleys. "They came provided with
their carriages and wagons, purchased animals at Fort Benton, and have already
started for their new homes on the Pacific. The boats made the trip from St.
Louis in thirty-two days, and the teams will make the trip over the new military
wagon road in forty days to Walla Walla."
At Fort Colville, in July, 1862, the military jiaid .$'2. .50 a bushel for wheat. $11
a barrel for flour, and $1 a bushel for oats.
Charles Frush and Fred. Sherwood arranged in the sjjring of 1863 to run
an express from Fort Benton to \Vall.\ M'alla, by way of Spokane prairie, to con-
nect with the Wells Fargo express at Walla Walla.
In the spring of 1865, Mr. Winans \inid i'i\-_^ cents jier jiound for carrving
freight from Wallula, on the Columbia, to Colville, and sold bacon at 621/0 cents,
coffee 75 cents, sugar 50 cents, beans 35 cents, salt 25 cents, nails 40 cents, butter
$1, and shot 50 cents. Calico brought 371/4 cents per yard, a spool of thread 25
cents, and a paper of needles the same.
The first steamboat to run the Columbia above the international boundary was
built by Captain Lew White where the town of Marcus now stands. It was chris-
tened the "Forty-Nine," and Miss Christina McDonald and Miss ISIary L. Brown
drove the first nails. It was launched November 18, 1865, and made its first run
about April, 1866, with Lew White as captain, Wesley Briggs purser, A. C.
Pingstone mate, and Wash. Eldridge engineer.
The first annual statement of the treasurer of Spokane county, as shown by
the records, is as follows :
PiN'KNEY City, W. T., January 1, 1863.
To amoimt received $2,587.58
Paid out:
By county orders redeemed $1,881.98
By cash, school fund, 1861 277.02
By cash, school fund, 1862 122.26
By cash, territorial fund, 1861 106.01
By cash, territorial fund, 1862 56.22
By cash, war fund 50.00
Fees, R. H. Douglass 8.12
Fees, for disbursing 85.18
By Cash .79 $2,587.58
272 S1'(-)KAM: and Till. 1M.AM-) KMl'lUK
L'lidir datf of Dtcember 28, 1802. Mr. Winans' jouni.il contains this entry:
"K. F. Sniitli, uiy employer, started below, witii .t'2i2,000 in gold dust, accompanied
liy .l.imes Monagiian, Pucket and Lieut. Hoadley." And January 2, 1863: "Con-
ner s mule train got in with goods from Wallula, l.S.OOO jiounds of bacon, sugar,
etc., thirty-si.\ days since he started for the goods. I'.iid freight bill on same,
$1,950."
"On .May 26. 186,i, at the upper Palouse camp," writes Mr. Winans, "tiierc
were stolen from Ferguson & Co.. nine mules. The teams to whicii tiiese animals
belonged were en route to CciMllr witli goods. Tlie mules were driven towards
Britisii Columbia, crossed the Cohuubia at Dancing Hill ferry, and tlienee up the
Okanogan to Britisii Columbia. Francis WoltV accepted an offer of ^'AM for the
return of the mules. At the boundary line he struck thiir trail, and eh.inging
horses several times with tiie Indians, lie overtook tile thieves, and watciiing liis
opportunity at nigiit. about ten miles tiiis side of Nicholas lake, B. C, iie recov-
I red the mules, leaving the tiiieves afoot, lie ilr(>\( tiir niuhs to Cnh iUe. .arriving
June 15, 186.S, about twenty days after tluy were stolen, he living most of that
time on suckers bougiit from tile Indians. Tile thieves were W. Page, an Eng-
lisimiaii witli pock marks, Louis Wiilianis. or 'Nigger Louie,' and .lolin Wagoner,
or 'Duteii John.' Afterwards, in 186 K Page was concerned in the Magruder
murder, .and kiUed at I.ewiston. Wagoner, witii a jiartner, licit! up a wagon train
near Boise; thi- partner w.is killrd. hi- was cauglit .and liuiig. 1 lia\c no record
of wliat became of 'Nigger Louie.' but lien liurgiiiuler says lie was living at one
time witli the Indians at Kaiiiloops. B. C .
Bv act of .lanuarv .'iO, ISd:!. the legisl.atnre cut olV from Walla Walla county
the territory Iving between the international boundary on tlie nortii and the A\eriat-
chee river on the south, and the Columlii.i river on tiic cast .and tiie Cascade moun-
tains on tile west, and named if .^stevens county. W. B. ''4'antis w.as named as sherifT
and Cliarles H. Camptield auditor. The county seat was "temporarily" located
at "H. E. Young's store." "No .ittem|)t was made to org.aiiize the county of
.Stevens ;it H. E. Young's store," says Mr. Winans, "for it was so temi)orary th.it
it remained witiiin its jiroposed bouiid.aries but .i few months. Tiie oflici.ils iiauud,
being miners, were on tiie move iiuntiiig new diggings, the claims they aliandoned
being occupied bv hundreds of Chinaiiuii, wlio were .apparently making good w.ages
and j)a3'ing no taxes. "
It is Mr. Winans' recollection of the discussion of this quistion that the principal
reason .idv.aneed for the annex.atiou of .Stevens to Sjiokane was the need of control of
both sides of tlie Columbia, to prevent evasion of head tax by Chinese shifting
from one side of the river to the other. "Our representative evidently tried to fol-
low out his instructions, but in his endeavors to have Stevens coimty attached to
S])okane, the legislature reversed iiiiii, for tiie act of January I<), 186t, attached
.Spok.ane to .Stevens, but tiie officers of .Spokane were made tlie officials of .Stevens."
Dr. Tobey secured the passage of an ".\et to |>roteet free white labor from coni-
jietitioii of Chinamen. " levying ,i (pi.irterly tax of $6, the slieritf to have 25 per
cent, the remainder to be divided eipi.-illy between the county and the territory.
Under this act there was )5aid the treasurer of Stevens county .$2,91'0 in 1861',
$1,5 f2 in 1865, .and .$.'5,076 in 186(). I'.xplan.atory of tiie small collections of 1865,
it is recalled tiiat bogus collectors, im])ersonating the slieritf and liis deputies, went
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 273
among the confiding Chinese and collected several hundred dollars of the tax. The
law was repealed in 1869.
At the election, July 13, 1863, for delegate to congress, the vote of Stevens
county was: Cole 56, Turney 22, Raynor 11, Richardson 2.
The following entries are taken from the Winans diary :
"July 26, 1S63. Received news today of the battles and victories of Gettysburg
and Vicksburg, of July 4, only twenty-two days. Very quick time."
"August 17, 1863. Very hard frost last night; killed the potato and squash
vines; also the wheat and oats were rendered valueless."
"September 8, 1863. Marcus Oppenheimer and W. V. Brown took possession of
some of the buildings of the British Boundary Commission, abandoned last j'ear by
Col. Hawkins and the sappers and miners."
Brown died some years before Oppenheimer. The latter filed a homestead on
the place, and the town of ]\Iarcus, now on the site, was named for him.
As some confusion arose from the fact that the county seat was called Pinkney
City, but the ])ostoffice Fort Colville, the name of the county seat was changed to
Fort Colville by an act passed January i. 1868. Seven years later, the little village
of Spokane Falls, ambitious to become the seat of government, made an audacious
effort to take the county seat from Colville. An act was actually passed, November
5, 1875, locating the county seat at Spokane, and directing "that on or before May
1, 1876, the county commissioners shall remove all records to that place." "The
coimty commissioners did not permit an act of the legislature to override their per-
sonal jireferences," observes Mr. Winans, for the county records show that on
April 26. 1876, all three commissioners, L. W. Meyers, D. F. Percival and J. La-
mona, lieing present, the question of changing the county seat was discussed, and
the majority decided that 'the act was null and void, because it was an amendment to
the act of 1863, which was repealed by act of 1864, which located the county seat
at Colville.' Percival dissented, but no further action was taken. We think this is
the first instance of a board of county commissioners passing on the legality of an
act of the legislature and winning out, for the countj' seat remained at Colville, and
is there to this day."
Dismemberment of .Stevens county began November 27, 1871, with the cutting
away of Whitman county. Then, in chronological order, came the cutting off of Spo-
kane. October .SO, 1879; Kittitas and Lincoln, November 21., 1883; Adams, Franklin
and Douglas, November 28, 1883; Okanogan. February 2, 1888; Ferry, February
21, 1899; and Chelan. March 13. 1899.
The act creating Whitman county took from Stevens all territory south of a
line drawn from White Bluffs northeasterly to Lougenbeel creek; thence by Fifth
standard parallel to the Idaho line, and appointed as its first officers: Charles D.
Porter, sheriff: .Tames Ewart, auditor, and W. A. Belcher, treasurer.
"The county officials named," says Mr. Winans, "assembled January 1, 1872, and
took o.itli of office in the hewn log house built by J. A. Perkins, being the first house
in Colfax, and it still stands in the rear of the present residence of the builder, who
not only erected the first house, but also assisted in building the first sawmill, and
has, during his long residence in the county, been one of its most efficient, unselfish
and leading factors in building up that thriving city and prosperous community."
Speaking of the organization of Whitman county, Captain James Ewart has said:
274 Sl'OKANi: AM) Till. IM.AM) KMl'lRE
"At tliis first meeting tiie questiun arose, who would adiiiiiiistir tile oath of oHice.
No one present was authorized to do so. It hai)pened that Anderson Cox, an officer
of the land office at Walla Walla, was in Colfax, and they, making virtue of neces-
sity, had him swi-.ir in .James Kw.-irt .-is eounty auditor, and he administered the
oath of office to the other officials. A st.itement of the organization was afterwards
made to Judge Kennedy, .ind he declared it legal."
Wc return now to the early history of .Spokane and .Stevens county. "It was not
until after the war that parties divided ])olitically," continues Mr. Winans. "Tiicii
for a few years it was Union and Democratic parties, but in 1869 five of the seven
avowed republicans met in the office of the writer and agreed on a plan of organiza-
tion, M-hich was carried into effect by placing a republican ticket in the field and
electing the greater part of it. The seven were Henry Wellington, W. V. Brown,
II. E. Young, F. W. Perkins, George McCrae, S. F. Sherwood and W. P. Winans.
For political literature the democrats circulated Brick Pomeroy's Democrat, and the
republicans the New York Tribune and Harpers' Weekly."
According to the same authority, the legislative representatives elected during
the first few years of Spokane-Stevens county are: J. A. Bates, 1861; Charles H.
Camjitield, J 862, B. F. Yantis, contested, Campficld made no appearance, and Yantis
got the seat ; Dr. Isaac L. Tobey, for 1 86.S, reelected for 1 86 1, but resigned, as the
pav, <t3 a day and mileage in "greenbacks" at 40 cents on the dollar would not cover
his expenses and he did not go to Olympia a second time. Wni. V. Brown, for 186.5,
would not leave his business to go to the capital. ,1. ,1. H. Bokkelem for 1866. W. P.
Winans for 1867, member of the first biennial session; Charles H. Montgomery,
1869; \\'. 1'. Win.ins, 1871; T. (). I'.ivorite. 187.3; R. H. Wimpy, 1875; D. F. Perci-
val, 1877 and 1879.
The joint councilmen representing W.iUa W;ill.i. .Sj)okane, Stevens and other
counties for the first few years of organization were: John A. Simms, 1861-2; Dan-
iel Stewart, 1863-i; Anderson Cox, 186,';-6; B. L. Sharp.stcin, 1866-7; J. M. Van-
syeke, from 1867 to 1870; H. O. D. Bryant, 1871-2; Charles H. Montgomery, 1873-4.
Under the caption of "Incidents," Mr. Winans records the following:
Before the organization of the county government, gold was dicovered on the
Pend d'Oreille river by Joe Morrell in 18;)1, and in 1855, the news being scattered
abroad, quite a number of miners, packers and traders came into the Colville valley
among tliem Francis Wolff, who in 1856 brought the first merchandise on wagons
into the v.illey, starting from The Dalles, going by Walla Wall;i v;dley, and crossing
Snake river at the mouth of the Palouse by lasliing canoes together. After driving
across country, he ferried the S])okane in the same way, and passed thence into the
vallcv hv way of Walker's iir;iirie, making the wagon tracks that Major I.ougenbeel
followed in 1859 win n iu' e.uiu to estalilish the military post.
The discovery of gold, tiie influx of miners, and the location of the United .States
mililarv post called the attention of the territorial legisl;iture to the valley, and on
January 11, 1859, an act was passed "Authorizing Edward L. Massey to establish a
ferry across Snake river, where the road crosses between Walla Walla .and Fort Col-
ville." On December I't, 1859, tlie general government was petitioned to build a
wagon road from Seattle, via .Snotpialmie )):iss. to I'ort Colville.
In 1859 and 1860 J. R. Bates operated the ferry at the Government crossing on
the .Spokane river. He sold out to W . ,). Terry .'ind William Xixon, and on .Scjitem-
SPOKAXE AXI) THE INLAND EMPIRE 275
ber 20, 1800, James Monaglian was employed by them to take charge of it, he at that
time being 20 years old. The legislature, on January 11, 1861, granted them a
charter to build a bridge. This ferry afterwards became the property of James
!Monaghan, who built the first bridge in 1865, at this crossing. This bridge after-
wards was called Lapray's bridge, Joseph Lapray purchasing it about 1875.
The first bridge built on the Spokane river was above the !Mullan road crossing,
in 1861, by Tim Lee, Joe Herrin and Ned Jordan. High water in the spring of
1 865 took it out, and it was rebuilt by the same persons that year.
Tile Kootenai mines were discovered in the fall of 1863, and to ascertain if a
praeticil route could be had by water, D. H. Ferguson & Co., in the spring of 1864,
l.ougiit a canoe, employed Dick P'rj', Adam Boyd and Old Piene as guide, provisioned
them for six months, and sent them to find a route to the mines. They went ujj the
Columbia river to its headwaters, portaged the canoe three-fourths of a mile to the
Kootenai river, and floated down that stream to the mouth of Wild Horse creek,
where the W.alla Walla trail crossed the river. They used the canoe as a ferry boat
to cross the miners from the south, en route to the mines.
About 100 miners wintered (1861-65) at I\Iarcus, and in the spring of 1865
started up the Columbia river and prospected the streams emptying into it, and dis-
covered the French Creek, or Big Bend mines, in the fall of 1865.
To enable tlie people of Colville to reach the Kootenai trail with the ])roducts of
the valley, it was necessary to make a road from Cottonwood creek, a few miles south
of Chc'welali. to Peone Jirairie, a distance of about sixty miles tlirougii the timber.
The ])eople volunteered the labor, and the merchants, C. H. Montgomery, D. H.
Ferguson & Co.. and W. P. Winans donated the provisions. The road was laid out
by a com))any, consisting of D. H. Ferguson as commissary, John U. Hofstetter as
overseer, and an Indian as guide. The people by the dozens worked there during
the summer and fall of 1867, and completed the road so that it has been used ever
since. In 1871 Chief Engineer Moberly, in charge of the surveying j)arties of the
Canadian Pacific railroad, bought ]irovisions in Colville, and they were packed over
this road to Kootenai, British Columbia.
In July, 1881, Cajitain Hunter, witii a detaebment of the First cavalry, repaired
tile road, John U. Hofstetter again overseeing the work. He camped at the beauti-
ful lake on the divide, and on account of the numerous loons, named it Loon lake, by
which it is now known.
Immediately following the Wright campaign of 1858, the war department decided
to establish a jiermanent military post in the Spokane country, and in the spring of
1859 four eoui])anies of the Ninth U. S. infantry, under Major Pinkney Lougenbeel,
were ordered to the Colville valley. The conmiand crossed the Snake river at the
mouth of the Palouse, the Spokane at the point now known as the Lapray bridge,
and located, June 21, 1859, the military ])ost on the flat near Mill creek, about three
miles from the present town of Colville. A four company post was built of hewn
logs. R. II. Douglass and John Nelson had built a sawmill in 1858, at tiie falls
on the creek about three miles below the site of the fort, and Major Lougenbeel tried
to rent it on a basis of ^20 per thousand for lumber sawed, he to sui)])ly logs and
labor. The owners demanded .^lO, whereupon the .Major built a dam half a mile
above the post site, jjut in ;i sawmill and cut out enough lumber for bis own lueds,
276 si'okam: and iiii. im.amj i:.\ii'1UK
tlicii liasiiig tlif mill tii otlurs. aiid in tins way tin- scttlirs were cnabk-d to buy
lumber at .flO a thousand.
The same year, says Mr. \\inans. tin I5riti.sb boundary commission, under Col-
onel Hawkins, located their quarters on the south side of the Columbia river, two
mills above Kettle Falls, and about fiftein miles from the American post, and
l)uilt comfortable log houses to shelter his command. The place is now occu-
jiied by the town of Marcus. On Aujjust (!, 18()1. Captain John G. Parke .sold such
supi)lies .IS he had belonging to the American Hound.iry Counnission (the .\merican
and British engineers had worked together locating the boundary) and left for the
States; and on April 4, 1862. Colonel Hawkins abandoned bis buildinjj and started
for England by way of A\'alla A\'all.i.
I'or the historic dates in this eh;ii)ter, relating to tlir military occupation of the
Colville valley, I am indebted to the v.ihiable journal of Mr. AVinans.
On November 17, 1861, Major I.ougeiibeel was relieved of the couunand of I'ort
Colville by Major James F. Curtis, with two e(iin])anies of the Second Infantry, Cali-
fornia Volunteers. One of the first orders issued by Major Curtis dismissed the post
sutler, Charles R. Allen. It was terse. em|)hatic and patriotic: ".Sir: You are dis-
missed as sutler from this post for your unqualified secession principles."
.Some of the California A'olunteers were a rough and disorderly lot, rejjuted jail-
birds of San Francisco, a city then swarming with the otfseourings of civilization.
"Besides getting drunk, tiny uould tiiilit. ste.il .-iiul kill. Within tour d.-iys of
tlieir arrival they broke into the only washhouse in town, ran oti' the Chinamen and
stole the clothes, leaving most of the citizens with only what underclothing was on
tluir persons. February 8, 1802, Lieutenant .lolin .M. Ilrnry came to the town,
and in cold blood killed .lohn Hurk with a butcher knife. The coroner's inquest found
Henrv guilty of nuirder. M.i jor Curtis confined him to his quarters for about twenty
days, and then, on account of eritieisni by citizens, turnnl liim over to Sheriff Fran-
cis Wolff. The nearest jail being tTO miles dist.mt, at \',iucouver. the sheriff took
liim to his farm, about five miles distant, and kept him until si)ring, when Henry de-
manded a hearing before a justice of the peace. At the examination, and on ac-
count of the intimidation of these soldiers, no one a])peared to prosecute, and he was
discharged and left the ])laee. It was reported some months later that he was killed
in a row in California. Sluritf WoliT was allowed $352 by the comity eornmissioners
for guarding and feeding Lieutenant Henry."
Februarv ti'i, 1863, passes into history .is memorable for tin- Largest and most
brilliant social event that had ever been given in tile Spokane country, the great
b.ill of the California Volunteers. Invitations were sent out to practically everybody
in the Colville valley, including the officers .and iiKii of the British Boundary Coiu-
Diission. The times were democratic, social distinctions were obliterated between
officers .and men, and there was a joyous cominingling of the native and Caucasian
races. More than lOO guests attended, including about l.")0 women of the valley.
chicflv natives and mixed liloods. .mil li.ilf .a dozen white women, .ill tliit eoiild be
mustered in the fort and the country. M.ajor Curtis and his officers attended in full
dress uniform, and were hospit.iiile to a degree, exerting themselves to see that none
lacked attention, .-uid capping their hospitality with .i bountiful sujiper. Evidently
the California A'oluntcers were on their good behavior, .and there was only a "sound
of revelry by night" where too frequently had been a sound of deviltry by day.
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 277
One of tlif company barracks, a log building 25x100, had been patriotically and
beantii'ully decorated as a ballroom. At each end, over the great fireplaces, were
rosettes of guns and sabers, flanked by the flags of the United States and the British
Empire. Flags and bunting were on tlie sides of the building in profusion, and for
illumination artistic hands had formed great chandeliers of bayonets attached to
hoops, in cone and pyramidal eft'ect. The dancing and the feasting lasted until
daylight.
We quote now from ^Ir. Winan's diary:
March 26, 1862. Lieutenant Wing of the California Volunteers committed sui-
cide by shooting himself, placing the muzzle of the pistol in his mouth. The first use
made of the beautiful marble of which the valley has such a great variety and abun-
dance was a slab marking his grave.
April 21, 1862. Major Curtis came with his command to the town, went to John
Shaw's distillery, took the worm of the still out and up to tlie fort, knocked all the
barrels of whisky in the head, and ordered every one in town not to sell liquor to
any one, wliicli order was obeyed. The character of some of the men in his com-
mand was such that life and proiJerty were not safe when they were drinking.
The order was obeyed, not only because it was an order, but for self-protection.
July 11, 1862. !Major C. H. Rumrill, with two companies of the Washington
Territory \'olunteers, relieved Major Curtis, who, with his command, went to Fort
Vancouver.
November 3, 1862. The order of ^lajor Curtis of April 21, stopping the
sale of liquors, was suspended by order of Major Rumrill, and whisky selling was
again permitted. It might be proper to say that during the prohibition the settlers
expended about the same amount of money, but it was noticeable that their families
were more comfortably housed and better clothed.
During the fall and winter of 1862-63, some desperadoes, driven out of Lewiston,
came to Colville. One of them, Charles Harper, shot and killed Mrs. McRice at a
dance, at the British Boundary Commission barracks. He fled, but on the twenty-
seventh of January, 1863, was caught by a party of miners and hanged at Leo's bar
on the Columbia river, about fifteen miles below the old fort.
Another called Williams (who was thought by his associates to be Wells, a man
who killed a sheriff and his deputy and driver near Sacramento four years before)
with three others, were stopping on the Little Pend d'Oreille, on the place afterwards
owned by Mrs. A. Reeves ' Ayers. His companions became afraid of him and killed
him. The younger one, a boy of 18, told !Major Rumrill about it, alleging self-
defense, hoping to get the supposed reward offered for Wells. The body, when un-
earthed and examined, showed that Williams had been shot, knocked in the head
witii an ax, and choked with a scarf. This investigation implicated the others, and
they tried to get out of the country, but the sheriff and posse, with the guidance of
.lames Monaghan and his prompt action, overtook them on the Spokane, near An-
toine Plant's ferry, and took them back to Colville. There being no jail, they, with
two others, were kept in the guard house all winter, and the following April broke
away from the guard, and were afterwards seen in Walla W^alla.
November .3, 1863, Lieutenant Charles P. Egan was married to Miss Emma
Johnson, .-it the commanding officer's quarters, by D. H. Ferguson, justice of the
peace. A s))l(ndid dinner followed the ceremony. This officer, as commissary gen-
278 SPOKWI' AM) •ri!l', INI.AVn I-AFI'IHF.
era], attained considtrililr notoriety in canned beef contracts during tlie Spanish-
American war.
December 'M-. ISO.S, military l>all at tlu i'urt. All the i»i)i)!r of the Valley were
there, the Washinjrtoii Xdlunttirs tryiiij^ to i-xeil the CaliforMia \'oluiitii r-i in the
entertainment of the year before.
May 26, 18(5.5, Captain !•'. O. McCown, with one company of Oregon Volunteers,
relieved ^lajor Rumrill and his command of two companies of Washington Territory
Volunteers, they going to Walla Walla. Captain MoCown, on taking command, au-
thorized W. 1'. Winans to act as post trader.
Xovember 9, 1865, Captain John S. Wharton, with one company, sixty-two men.
Fourteenth I'. .S. infantry regulars, arrived and relieved Captain McCown and his
connnand. who went to X'ancouvcr to be mustered out of service. From tiiis date
until abandonment, September, 1882, the fort was garrisoned by regular troops from
different regiments with different officers.
On .January 19, 1866, John S. Davis, living at the British Boundary Commis-
sion barracks, was punishing his squaw: lur mother, seeing it. ran a knife through
his body, killing him. A few hours afterward the mother was found hanging bv her
neck in one of the vacant buildings. The people did not take the law into their own
ii;iii(K in i\rry e.-ist'. for in 1H(>.") an Indian killed a whit<' ni.in on Kettle river, at
night while the victim was sleeping. He was given :i jury trial, was found guilt v of
nnirdcr. and hanged from a gallows erected by the sluritV.
On I'ebru'iry 18. 1867, ;i l)arty of five soldiers came to town, .md shot and kilh-d
n. I'. .Stew.irt. the probate judge. On .lune 8. 1867, tiie court met, presided over
by .ludge J. E. Wyche, and soldier Ileilly was found guilty and sentenced to twenty
years in the penitentiary at Steilacoom. .Judge Stewart was buried with Masonic
ceremonies. Seven ^fasons were pres<iit. This was tlie first Masonic funeral in the
county.
Lieutenant-Colonel Merriam, with his command of three companies, camped
during the winter of 1879-80 on Foster creek, and in the spring of 1880 went to
Chelan and commenced to build a jiost, but the diflieulties of access, and the lack of
tr.msportation were such that a new location was sought for, and the fort was fin.iUv
located near the mouth of the Spokane river, and built there in 1881.
Lieutenant Webster and his command were then witiidrawn from Colville, leav-
ing a quartermaster's man, Christ Gilson. in charge, who, after a few months, was
discharged, and in 1882 the fort was left to the tender mercies of the people. In a
few years not a liouse was left on the original site. Parts of tiiem. though, can yet
be found, twenty-five miles away from where tiiey formerly stood. The land of the
military reserve was appraised .and ^old. and is now owned by citizens and cultivated
as farms.
The troo])s were withdrawn Ironi b'ort Sjwkane in 1898. to take part in the Sjian-
isli w.ar, and later the fort was lunhd inrv to the Indian (le|iarlinent and used as ,an
Indian scliool.
l"or the record of changes since 187.'i Mr. U'inans .acknowledges information
given by .James Monaghan .uid I'.dw.ird O'.Shea.
CHAPTER XXXI
INLAND EMPIRE HISTORY IN OLD LEGISLATIVE ACTS
DISCOVERY OF GOLD EARLY FERRIES AND BRIDGES STEAMBOATS ON COLUMBIA AND
SNAKE MEMORIALS FOR TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILROAD SCHEME TO TURN PEND
d'oREILLE river INTO THE SPOKANE ARMS SENT TO MINERS GOLD HUNTERS OVER-
RUN NEZ PERCE RESERVATION TOWN OF LEWISTON LAID OUT CANADIAN "RECI-
PROCITY" MINERS CLAMOR FOR BETTER MAIL SERVICE FIRST BOOM IN THE INLAND
ESIPIRE SPOKANE COUNTY ANNEXED TO STEVENS DEALING WITH THE CHINESE
WALLA walla's FIRST LITERARY SOCIETY JAMES MONAGHAN GRANTED BRIDGE
FRANCHISE ON THE SPOKANE COAST MERCHANTS COMPETE WITH ST. LOUIS ORE-
GON TRIES TO ANNEX WALLA WALLA FAMOUS OLD MULLAN ROAD PRICES OF WALLA
WALLA PRODUCTS.
Trust me, each state must have its pohcies ;
Kingdoms have edicts, cities Iiave their charters ;
Even the wild outlaw, in his forest walk,
Keeps yet some touch of civil discipline ;
For not since Adam wore his verdant apron.
Hath man with man in social union dwelt,
But laws were made to draw that union closer.
—Old Play.
AT THE sessions of 1860-1 and 1861-2, the legislature carved, out of the
original boundaries of Spokane, the counties of Missoula, Idaho, Nez Perce
and Shoshone, that territory having received a large influx of gold miners;
and at the latter session enacted a law constituting these counties, and with them
Spokane and Walla Walla, the first judicial district. At the same session acts were
passed establishing courts at the county seats of Idaho, Spokane and Shoshone, that
of Spokane to have jurisdiction in Sjiokane and Missoula counties.
At this time discoveries of gold at various points in the Clearwater and Salmon
river region and along the bars of the Columbia river were luring thousands of ad-
venturous men into the interior, and ferries were needed at many points where roads
and trails crossed deep or turbulent rivers. At its winter sessions of 1860-1 and
1861-2 the legislature at Olympia was besieged by eager applicants for ferry fran-
chises. An act passed in January, 1861, authorized "Antoine Plant, his lieirs and
assigns to establish and keep a ferry across the Spokane river, at or near tlie point
where the military road from Fort Walla Walla to Fort Benton crosses said river;"
and allowing liiin to cliarge the following tolls:
279
280 Si'OKAM. AND TllK INLAND 1-,.\11'JUE
For tacli wago|i, carriage or vcliiclc, with two animals attached. ..$-1.00
I'or each pleasure wagon, with two horses 3.00
For each additional animal 50
For each cart, wagon or carriage with one horse 2.00
FOr Ulan and horse 1 .50
For each .iiiiuial packed 1.50
For each footman 50
F'or loose aniui.ils. other than slui|) or hogs 25
For sheep, goats or hogs, each head 15
The grantee was required, "witliin six nionlhs Iroui and alter the passage of this
act. to j)roeiirr and keep on said ferry a sufficient ferry boat, with the requisite num-
ber of hands to work the same, for the transportation of all persons and their prop-
erty without unnecessary delaj- ;" and furtlier, to ))ay "into the county treasury of
the county in wiiieh said ferry may lie hx-ated, as ,im annual tax, a sum not to ex-
ceed $25 for the use of said count}-."
At the same session the legislature incorporated the Spokane Bridge company,
with W. J. Terry, William Nix "and such otiiers as may become associated with
thera," as incorporators, with a capital stock of $20,000; "for the purpose of con-
structing a bridge across the .S|)okane river, .Spokane county, at or near the govern-
ment crossing." Maxinuim tolls were established:
For each foot passenger $ .25
For each man and horse 1.00
For each jjaek animal and pack 75
F'or each cart, ch;iise. gig with two wheels, or other two-wheeled
carriage drawn by one liorse 1.25
The same drawn by two horses or oxen 1.50
For each four-wheeled wagon, buggy or carriage, with one horse. 1.50
The same with two horses or oxen 1.75
For addition.il horse or ox 25
For eaeli ))leasure carri.ige, coach or vehicle for conveyance of
persons, with four horses 2.00
For each horse, nnile or ass, or neat cattle 25
F'or each slieep or liog 10
The ])resident of the comp.any was required, as soon as the bridge was cora-
(ileled and tolls collected thereon, to list under oath the capital stock and other prop-
erty of tile eomiiaiiy, "for tax.ition as personal property is then listed for taxation by
law." And "at .-iny tiuie after ten ye.irs from the time the tolls m;iy be first col-
lected on said bridge, the county commissioners or proper authorities of .Spokane
crjwnly shall liavr a right to pMreli.isc and m.in.age said bridge in such ;i manner as
may be ))rovided by law."
Mention of Antoine Plant's jilaee on the .Spokane river is madi' in jireeeding chap-
ters. Hen Burgnndc r. .i resident of Colfax since 1879, who e.ime into the Inland
Empire in 1802, and a year later went to Marcus, .Stevens county, where he en-
gaged in business for many years, has given the writer valuable information
SPOKANE AND THE IXLAXD EMPIRE 281
respecting Antoine's place and other historic crossings of the Spokane. Plant's
ferry was at a point a short distance above Trent, but his home, where Governor
Stevens repeatedly was sheltered in the '50s, was at the large spring which gushes
from the hillside about a mile and a half north of the stream.
Tlie MuUan road crossed the river at Plant's ferry, and ran up the valley to
Lake Coeur d'Alene. At Antoine Caniille's place, some three miles above Plant's
dwelling, it connected with the old Colville road coming down over Peone prairie.
]\Ir. Burgunder recalls that the ]\lullan road followed the old Colville road from
Walla Walla to the crossing of Cow creek, and there took an independent course,
and crossed Snake river at the mouth of the Palouse. McWirck Bros, had the
first ferry at tliat point. They operated under a charter granted in the early '60s.
The place is now known as L3'on's Ferry.
Tim Lee and Joe Herrin built the first bridge across the Spokane, in 1864, and
sold it to Charley Kendall, who had a store on the east bank. The store of M. M.
Cowley and Tom P'ord was on the west side. Kendall was killed about 1875 by
Joe Leonard, who fired through Kendall's bedroom window. Leonard was killed
in Montana, while serving as a U. S. scout in tlic Xez Perce war of 1877. At the
time Kendall operated his toll bridge across the Spokane, Isaac Kellogg came up
from M'aitsburg in 1865 and built a free bridge across the stream at Antoine
Plant's old ferry. While sitting in his cabin one night, he was killed by a shot
fired through the window.
Lieutenant !Mullan found Plant "a very worthy halfbreed Flathead Indian, who
speaks both French and English; has a small field mider cultivation, from which
he obtains corn, wheat and vegetables ; these, with the salmon found in the river,
form an abundant supply for his Indian family."
Mullan, with a party of 100 men, completed his historic old liigbway in 1859-60.
His main command started from Walla W^alla July 1, bridging rivers, creeks and
sloughs on their march, and noting the character of the country. Of the Palouse
region Mullan ventured the prediction that "the black loam would doubtless pro-
duce vegetables and cereals, and it is not at all improbable that the grazier and
agriculturist will find, at no distant day. tracts of land that will amply repay
their reclamation."
Under date of July 14 Midlan made this entry in his journal: "We camped this
day on the banks of the Nedwhuald, and at the same point where General Wright
lumg Qualcliien, the noted Yakima chief, and several other Indians, from which
fact the creek is known to many as Hangman's creek."
Of the Coeur d'Alene Indians Mullan wrote: "They are; wily fellows, and
great caution is necessary in all intercourse with them."
His great task ended, Mullan's command was disbanded at Walla Walla in
August, 1860, and tlie outfit sold. "Thus ended my work in the field," he reported,
"costing seven years of chjse and arduous attention, exploring and opening uj) a
road of 624 miles, from the Columbia to the Missouri river, at a cost of $230,000."
At this jH-riod all eyes were dazzled liy the glitter and glamour of gold, for the
rich jilacers of the Spokane country were yielding i)rineely tribute; fortune smiled
on many a poor miner, and the spirit of promotion and exploitation was in the land.
Steamboats were needed on the swift waters of the Columbia, the Snake and the
Clearwater, to transport passengers and merchandise to the interior, and to meet
'JB2 Sl'OKANK AND ■I'lli: IMAM) l.MIMUK
tliat need we find J. C. Ainswortii, Daniel I". Bradford. K. K. Thompson and J. S.
Ruggle a])i)earing at Olynipia for legislative articles to incorporate the historic old
Oregon Steam Navigation company, predecessor of the Oregon Railroad & Navi-
gation company, or as now known, the Harriman system in Washington and Oregon.
At least two of tiiese, were to become steamboat princes, for their boats earned
fabulous profits, as wealth came easily when miners were rocking out from $10 to
$100 a day to the man at Pierce City, Orofino. Florence and iitlur famous jilacer
camps of fifty years ago.
Even then, and for years before, the peoi)le had keen anticipations of tiie coming
of the Nortliern Pacific railorad and the transformation to be wrought by it in pio-
neer conditions of travel, transportation and development. A memorial adopted by
the Washington legislature, February 4, 1858, told congress that "the time has ar-
rived for the construction of a great national railwav across the continent, connect-
ing the populous states of the Atlantic with the Pacific shores of the Union, already
colonized witli our young and vigorous men. ... It will bind together this vast
re])ublic, and be a chain of union between tlie Atlantic and Pacific states. It will
insure the defense of the country. Armies, seamen, military and naval stores may be
transported from ocean to ocean in less time and with less expense than were re-
quired between New York and the lakes during the war of 1812. It will give a
direct, quick transit to mails. Military reasons call for its construction. Political
reasons require that it should be made; and more than all, commercial reasons de-
mand it. The trade of the Pacific ocean and eastern Asia will take its track. The
trade of India, whose channels have been shifting for hundreds of years, is destined
to shift once more, and that is across our continent. The American road to India
will become the European track to that region, and the rich commerce of India will
flow through our center."
For these and other reasons, it was —
"Resolved, As the opinion of the legislative assembly, that the cheapest and
shortest route from the great commercial emporiums of the Atlantic to the Pacific,
is the route explored and surveyed by Governor Stevens near the forty-ninth ])arallel
of north latit\ide, connecting Piiget Sound, the largest and most commodious harbor
in the world, witli its inexhaustible beds of coal, with the head of Lake Superior and
the three great lakes which connect directh'' with the Atlantic, thus greatly reducing
the cost of transit on heavy merchandise.
"Resolved, Tliat the northern line is the most accessible by navigation, passes
through the lumber regions of Minnesota and Washington, and has easy access to the
vast pine forests of the Red river, and ])assing through the rich and boundless prai-
ries of the northwest.
"Resolved, That the construction of this great northern national system can
not only be the work of tile present century, but it can be made the great work of tlie
present administration, giving it undying fame, binding together this vast empire in
bands of iron, and bearing the light of the gospel, of science and civilization across
the continent, and making it the great highway between Europe and Asia."
But lamentably the civil war was coming on, and Buchanan's administration,
soon to be swept t'roin jxiwcr, was not to have the "undying fame" held out to it bj'
the legislative assembly of the young territory of Washington. Russian peasants
have a saying tliat "God and tile czar are far away." and congress and a trans-
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 283
continental railroad were far distant from the voice of the legislative assembly tliat
was trying to make itself heard from the backwoods capital of Olympia.
We have in the Spokane river a pretty fine water power, even as nature bestowed
it upon us; but we should have possessed a far greater power if only the brilliant
project of the promoters of the Pend d'Oreille mining company had materialized
some fifty years ago. Their object, however, was the quest of gold, not to amplify
the water power in the Spokane, of which it then seemed there was an abundance and
more for all future time.
By an act passed in January, 1861, this corporation, having as its incorporators
W. H. Watson, H. Way, W. Terry, R. Ricord, G. C. Blankenship, William Cardwell
and B. F. Yantis, was granted power "to construct and maintain a canal for the pur-
pose of turning the channel of the Pend d'Oreille river into the Spokane river from
any point on said Pend d'Oreille river that the said company shall deem most advis-
able, and shall have the exclusive right for mining purposes to the bed of said river
below low water mark." It further was provided that "any person not a member of
said corporation who shall attempt to mine in said river below low water mark, shall
be deemed guilty of a trespass, and upon conviction thereof, shall forfeit and pay to
the said corporation not less than .$500 nor more than $1,000, recoverable before
any court liaving jurisdiction, in the name of tlie corporation."
On the theory that the bed of the Pend d'Oreille was rich in placer gold, it was
the intention of the company to divert, through a canal, the entire flow of that river
into the headwaters of the Little Spokane, and thence into tlie main Spokane. But
the stock proved unsalable, and it apjiears that the project never advanced beyond
the "paper" stage.
At the session of 1859-60, John W. Park was granted a franchise for a ferry
across the St. .loseph river, "in what is commonly known as Spokane county," at the
point "where tlie territorial or military road leading from post or P'ort Walla Walla
to Fort Benton, Montana, " crossed that stream. The authorized tolls were somewhat
higher tlian tlie legislature liad |)erniitted on other ferries in tlie interior, ranging
from 50 cents for a footman to $5 for each wagon with two animals attached.
William Forman was authorized to establish a ferry across the Coeur d'Aleiie
river, "in wliat is commonly called Spokane county," at the point where the Walla
Walla-Fort Benton road crossed that stream, with permission to charge the same
schedule of tolls as had been granted the ferry across the St. Joseph.
Notwithstanding the pacification of the country by the crushing defeats ad-
ministered by Colonel Wright in 1858 upon the turbulent Indian tribes, the settlers
were apprehensive of renewed hostilities north of Snake river; and the legislature,
by a resolution ])assed February 1st, 1860, directed the (juarterniaster general "to
forward one-fourth of all the territorial arms now in his possession, to some con-
venient jioint or points in the counties of Spokane and Walla Walla, or both of them."
.\niong the important acts passed at this session was one "to establish an insti-
tution of learning in Walla Walla county," — the beginning of the Whitman college
of the present day. The act, passed December 20, 1859. provided for "the instruc-
tion of persons of both sexes, in science and literature." in an institution "to be
called the Whitman seminary;" and named Elkanah Walker, George H. Atkinson,
Elisha S. Tanner, Erastus S. Joslyn, W. A. Tenney, H. H. Spalding, John C. Smith,
James Craigie and Cushing Eells as trustees. The capital stock was never to exceed
284 SPOKANF, AXO THK IMANO KMI'IKK
$150,000, "nor the income or proceeds of the same be appropriated to .iiiy other use
llian for tlic benefit of said institution as contemplated by this act."
I'or the aeeomraodation of goJd-hunters passing into the upper Columbia river
eountry .iihI on tlu way to the Similkameen placers, P. C. Dunlcvey M-as autliorized
at tills session to establish and keep a ferry "across Shalam river in Spokane county,
comnuneing at lake Shalam and extending five miles down Shalam river." Thus
they attempted to spill "Clulrin" iialf a cciitury and more ago.
The country east of the Cascade niouiit.iins engrossed a large ])art of the lliouglit
and attention of the legislative session of the winter of 18()0-(il. rra\el was setting
in briskly towards tlu placer mining e.inips of northern Id.ilio, and the upper
Columbia, and to facilitate it the legislature granted the Walla Walla & Clear-
water road company a franchise to construct and m.aintain a toll road by way of
lh( old Indian trail. F.lias I). Pierce, Joseph L. Davis, James Buckley and Lycurgus
Jaekson were named as incorporators, and empowered to charge tolls at each bridge
or terry ranging from fifty cents for a footman to $.5 for each wagon with six
nmies, iiorses or oxen. Daniel l.adoux was authorized to keep a ferry across the
Columbia at the mouth of Kettle river.
Congress was memorialized for the a|)pointiHi nt of ;i eoiiiiiiissioiu-r to treat
with the Xez Pc ree Iiidi.ins for a elLuige in their reservation, the memorial jioint-
ing out tiiat "during the jiast year (liseo\ cries have indicated the existence of rich
gold fields within the limits of tli( Xi z Perce reservation in this territory;" that
"this has caused great excitement auiorig tliose Indians, .is .also among our white
))oi)ulation, and it is feared that unless some .letinn is t.aken by the gener.al govern-
ment, it may lead to serious difficulty between the whites .and the Xcz I'erees, who
have been miiformly friendly to our citizens." It was believed "that the Lands
upon which the gold is indicated may be peaceably ]>rocured of the Indians should
a eonnnissioner be appointed to treat with them for a change in the boundaries
of the reserv.ition."
The first treaty w.as m.ide with the Xez Perces in 18.")5, but was not ratified
until I8")9, explains .Myron Eells. in "History of Indian Missions on the Pacific
Co.-ist." The next vear the gold mines of Orotino were discovered on thi ir reserv.i-
tion, and the following year those of Flor<nee and other jilaces in western Id.aho,
to the east of the reservation ; but to re.ieh tlu' latter the miners were obliged to
travel across the reservation; and men did rush on to it .and .across it \-ery nnich
as if it li.ad not been set ap.art for llie Indians. In order to avoid .a conflict, a new
treaty was ni.ide in April. 18()1 (wiiich, however, was lu-ver ratified), by which
that part of the reservation lying north of Snake and Clearwater rivers, the south
fork of llie Cle.arw.aler. .and tlie trail frdin the sonlli t'(n-k liy the Wiepjie root
ground, across tiie Hiltir Hoot mount.iins. w.is opened to tin- whites in eonnnon with
the Indians for mining purposes. As long as the United States did not ratify it, it
did not become binding on the Indians, .and iv. n if it li.ad been, only .a p.art of
the reservation was opened, and that only lor mining purposes. Vet. in defiance
of law, and against the |)rotestations of tiic Indi.in .agent, the town of I.ewiston
was laid out in 18(il on the reserv.ition. .and on that p.arl of it wliieli iiad not been
linis (ipemd. Tlh- town soon grew to be a place of 1 ,'200 people, and the first
capil.al iif Id.aho; .and the anom.aly was seen of the legislature of a territory sitting
SPOKxVXK AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 285
on an Indian reservation, and even making laws, some of which were contrary
to the laws of tlie United States, in regard to intercourse with Indians.
"By the sjjring of 1863," adds Eells, "it was evident tliat a new treaty was
needed, whereby the reservation should be curtailed, if possible; and this was
made in June of that year; but it was not ratified by the United States until 1867.
Lawyer, the head chief, and fift}' other sub-chiefs and head men agreed to it, but
otiiers did not, among whom were Joseph. White Bird and Looking Glass, who
lived on the part surrendered to the United States; and this was the main cause of
the war with .Joseph in 1877.
"The tribe was thus, in 1863, divided into treaty and non-treaty Indians, and
as government failed either to ratify this treaty, or even to pay all the money due
under the first treaty, the division between the two parties grew ^vider and wider,
and the non-treaty party grew constantly stronger, while the other side grew weaker.
To add to the difficulty, the miners and otliers, of whom 3,000 or KOOO were on the
reservation, carried a large amount of whiskey with them, a considerable part of
which was furnished to the Indians, enough at times to occasion serious trouble,
had there been no other cause.
"Lawyer, notwithstanding, stood firm for the whites until .Tune, 1867, more
than six years after the miners had entered his reservation, and four years after
the last treaty had been made. But by that time he seemed to tire of waiting,
and at a council held that month he boldly demanded that justice be done; and such
was the feeling of the tribe that if he had not done so, wrote the agent, J. O'Neill,
"he would not have lived forty-eight hours. I know this to be true," he added; "I
know that some of his people would have killed him."
News of the ratification of the treaty, however, reached them soon after this:
the promises made soon began to be fulfilled, and trouble was avoided.
In another memorial the legislature directed congressional attention to the need
of Canadian "reciprocity." It recited that —
"A valuable mineral region lies in the Columbia river basin east of the Cascade
mountains wliieh is divided by our northern bound.iry line, the forty-ninth ])arallel ;
that a valuable and quite extensive mining region, in which are now ^vintering
ujiwards of -iOO American miners, lies south of said forty-ninth parallel; that from
the topography of the country it is absolutely essential that Americans, who are
obliged to travel from point to point, in obtaining ingress or egress from said
mines, must traverse a portion of British Columbia; that it is equally essential
that British miners and merchants, who desire to locate in the mines of British
Columbia are compelled to pass through an extensive ])ortion of the territory in-
cluded in Territory of Washington ; that large quantities of British goods are thus
necessarily passed through our territory, and a large quantity is supplied to our
miners, wnthout paying any duties whatever; that a British custom-house is estab-
lished on the route whicli Americans are comijelled, at present, to travel, and a
number of revenue officers are stationed along said route, compelling the payment,
not only of duties (although the goods and supplies are not sold or disposed of
until they again reach our own territory), but also, in the sliape of tonnage dues
and road taxes, according to tlie following schedule:
286 SPOKANE AND TlIK INLAND 1..MIMUE
Tonnage dues, per ton $ 3.00
Road tax, per ton 10.00
Wagons, each 10.00
.single tt;niis 4.00
ilorsenicn 1 -SO
'"That, in consequence of Britisii merchants securing inijiortation to American
miners free of duty, and our American fellow citizens having to pay the British
dues and tiie trihute money or toll above referred to, tlie latter are powerless to
compete with the Hritisii C'olumbi.ans."
The memorial closed with the signilicant st.itenienl tliat while "no ditliculty
has yet occurred calculated to mar the peaceful relations existing between the two
nations, tliis state of things cannot long continue."
Still anotlier memorial urged th.-it ".-i military ro;ul is mueh lucded truiii tliu
headwaters of Puget Sound to Fort Colville, as the postmaster general has adver-
tised for hids for carrying tin- United States mails from HiUingham Bay to tliat
point." It was set forth th.-it "the distance in a straiglit line between tile two
points is about 185 miles," and that the citizens of Bellingham Bay had spent
large sums of money and labor in opening a trail between the two said jioints,
and tlioroughly tested the i)r.ieticai)ility of a wagon road on or near tiie line of
said trail which was accessililc .it .ill seasons of the yi-.ir. It was added th.it--
"The ])ass through the Cascade mountains known ;is Park's pass, is the best
heretofore discovered, and the Northwestern Bound.ary counnission passed over
the same last summer with .ill their .inim.-ils .and baggage. This is the nearest
route to the 0])en country east of the Ca.scades by .at least 1 ;J0 miles, from the
waters of Puget Sound. This road, if established, will o])en large and fertile
tr.-icts of country to settlemint. .and .also give us a jxist road to I'ort Colville .and
the gold mines.
After tiftv ve.ars tiu drc .iiii ol the pioiucrs is yet a driani: and liie Bellingh.im
Bav \- K.asteni r.iilro.ad. on wliieh liigli lio|)es were subs((|uiiitly founded to put
the towns of IJellingliam B.ay in com|)etition with Seattle .and Tacoma for the com-
merce of the Iiidi.in F,m|)ire, languishes for want of funds and enterjirise.
Roads, ferrii s .md liridges, better m.ail facilities — these were the crying needs
of the Sjjokaue country half a century ago. Tlu old onler has |)assed away, and
the brave, hardv men who were engaged tluii in tin inspiring work of emi)ire
building, have, most of them, gone on the long, long journey which needs no
bridge or ferrv ; but the spirit of their times we find exjiressed in the time-worn
and age-stained volumes of legislativi' lore.
Passing on to the session of '(il-'J we discover the a])))ointiniiit. by .an act ji.assed
.January 1, of .1. I.. Henek, .John W'ynn .and .lohn Drinnheller. "to locate .and estab-
lish a territorial road from Fort A\'.illa Walla to Fort Colville, on the Columbia
river in Spokane countv. I'or this service they were to receive "a compensation of
three doll.ars per day while .actually employed in the viewing and locating of said
road, to be ))aid out of the county treasuries of their respective counties."
And at the same session .1. R. Bates was authorized to build a toll bridge
"across the .Spok.anc river at a point where the territorial road leading from Walla
Walla to Colville on the Columbia river crosses or may cross said river;" .and
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 287'
pending the building of the bridge, "the said J. R. Bates, his heirs or assigns, shall
secure a good and sufficient flatboat with sufficient hands to work the same, for the
transportation of all persons and their property, across said river •without delay."
The tolls ranged from fifty cents for a footman to $3 for "each pleasure, car-
riage, coach or vehicle for conveyance of persons." Automobiling in the vicinity
of Spokane would have been expensive recreation in those times.
Gold dust was the prevailing medium of exchange. Hence the adoption of
the following law by the territorial solons that winter at Olympia:
"That if any person shall counterfeit any kind or species of gold dust, gold
bullion or bars, lumps, jiicces or nuggets of gold, or any description whatsoever
of uncoined gold, currently passing in this territory, or shall alter or put off any
kind of uncoined gold mentioned in this section, for the purpose of defrauding any
person or persons, body politic or corporate; . . . every such person so offend-
ing, or any person or persons aiding and abetting in said offense or offenses, shall
be deemed guilty of counterfeiting, and upon conviction thereof, shall be punished
by imprisonment in tin- penitentiary for a term not less than one year nor more
than fourteen years."
^len were now invading the Inland Empire by the thousand, lured by the
search for the "golden fleece." The fame of the new "diggings" had spread afar,
and experienced gold miners hastened here from California, from British Columbia,
from southern Oregon, from the Willamette valley and the Puget Sound country.
In large part they were liome-owning citizens; many of them left families down
below; others were young men witii sweethearts and mothers in the places of their
bringing-up. and in every mining camp the liastily assembled population was eager
for news from home, and grew clamorous for better mail service. This agitation
found expression in a memorial, jiassed, January 6, 1862, the legislature at Olym-
pia "respectfully re])resenting" to the postmaster-general "that the people now living
in the eastern portion of this territory are laboring under great inconvenience and
expense from tlie fact of there being no mail facilities to the nortliward and east-
ward of the town of Walla Walla.
"The great extent and richness of our gold fields," so runs the memorial, "to-
gether with the unequaled grazing and farming lands east of the Cascade range
of mountains, justifies the belief tliat there will be soon many thousand perma-
nent settlers engaged in farming and mining in tliat portion of our territory. In
view of these facts, your memorialists would (iray that a weekly mail route be
established between the town of Walla Walla and Fort Colville, and also a weekly
mail route be established between Walla Walla and Pierce City, via Lewiston. A
wt-ekly mail should also be established between Lewiston and Florence City, situ- .
ated in the far-famed Salmon river mines.
"We would also respectfully request that a daily mail r<iute be established be-
tween Vancouver City and Walla Walla, thus connecting with the overland daily
mail between Sacramento City, Cal., and Olymjiia, W. T."
A week later a still more pressing memorial was addressed to "the Honorable
Senate and House of Representatives in Congress assembled," "respectfully repre-
senting that in view of the fact of the rich dejiosits of gold in the country lying
cast of the Cascade mountains in tliis territory, wliiili eomitry has now within
its limits more than five thousand men engaged in gold mining, which innnbcr will
288 Sl'OKA.NE AND Till. IM.AM) KM IM 1( I.
be increased to more tli.in .50.000 men during tin- eiisiiinff .summer, wliicli popula-
tion li.-ive no facilities wliatever lor the delivery of the L'nited States mail amongst
them :
"We, your memorialists, would respi-et fully request your honor.ahle body to
establish the followiuf; mail routes:
".\ iii:iil route froiii Walla Walla, via l.ewiston and I'ieree City, to l-'.lk City,
distance about '^00 miles, weekly service.
"A branch route from I.ewiston to Florence City, aiiout 85 miles, weekly service.
"A routi- from Wall.i Walla, via Antoine Plant's and the Coeur d'Alene mis-
sion, to Hell (late Ronde. distance .S.jO miles, semi-weekly service."
In yi I anotlii r nieniori.il. the legisl.ature jirotested to the ))Ostmastcr-gcneral
against the discdntinu.inee of ni.-iil service l-etween Walla Walla and ( oh ilK-. .and
))resenled the followin"' facts for his consideration:
W.ill.i W'.alla comity has now .about l.OOl) iidi.ihit.ints. There .are r>.OOU men
in the eiiuntr\ north of Colvilli . whosi onU' .\niirie.in otfiee is that ot Colville.
That there will be .iO.OOO ])<-o])le in the country e.ist of the Cascade mountains
before the close of the ensuinp; suunner.
There has been ;i semi-weekly line of steamers running with through connec-
tions between Portland and Wall.a Walla, which scmi-wcekly line is to be increased
to .1 dailv line on the reopening of navigation on the Columbia in February.
[n view of these f.acts, ;i d.aily m.ail service was .asked betwicii l'(U"tlaiul .aiul
W'.all.a W'all.a. .and the legislature repeated its recpirst fur the new lines proposed
in the foregoing memorials.
.\iu)tlier memorial to congress rei)rcsented tli.it "tlnri an \.ist tracts of agri-
cultur.al lands within the county boundaries of .Spokane .and .Misscuila. over wbicli
the public surveys of the government h.ive not Inari extended. I |)on these lands
a large number of our citizens are located, who li.ave erected hou.ses .aiul o))ened
farms. We therefore ask congress to make ;m appro)iriation which will be suffi-
cientlv large to extend this much needed survey over the counties to which we
ref( r."
']"be legislature was certaiidy busy writing .and passing niejnori.ils th.at winter.
Another represented tli.at "great inconvenience exists to the settlers on the public
bands in tin- counties of W'.alla W.ill.a. .Spokaiu^ .Shoshone, Missoula, Ncz Perce
and Id.aho. by consequence of tlnir remote situ.ation from any land office of the
United States; and you .are lurehy resjieetfully petitiimed to establish .a Land
office at the city of W'.alla W.ill.a. in W.ill.i W.illa e(Minty."
Tu lbes(' various acts .and memori.als wi' find Lack of uniformity in spelliiin' the
n.iHii- ".Spokane," and it ap))ears frea|uently without th'e fin.al "e."
I.euiston li.-iil now lieeonie the l.aruist town, excepting I'ortl.and, in the Pacific
northwest. Almost literally it may be s.aid th.at it sjirang up in a night, experience
b.aving shown that its site was the pr.aetic.al head of n.avig.aticm on the .Snake and
the Clearwater, .and therefore the n.atur.al outfitting .and distributing point for
miners and others going into the jd.acer camps of the Cle.arwaler and Salmon
river districts. A controversy .arose a few years ago, respecting tlie date of its
fiuniding .and the origin of its name, .and tin- ipiestion h.iving been referred to
Cieorge F,, Cole, former governor of W'asliingliui territory, Mr. Cole rc)ilied:
"Cobmel I.yli'. Captain Ainswortli, I.awrene. Coe, \ie. Trevett and myself
chai;lks II. ,\i(i.\-|'(;(i.M i:i;v
A noteil Stevens Countv I'icinoer
Wild cMinc tci the Spokane
river in ! Slit!
-M. M. COWLEV
AVlio liierited at Cowley's Bridge
ill 3872
K'KSIDKXCK UJ'" .lAMKS .\1( 1>:A( I HAX. SIloWIXC .lAMKS MOXA-
(illAX AXn FAMILY WIIKX A I'dST TKADKK
Also Knlieit Mnnayliaii atterwni.l I'lnsiyn. on |]oiiy. and the stage wliiili ran fron
the Kurt to Spokane Kails
1 He ."^L^" I'jhf.
PUBLIC LIBRARY
••i*H. LtHmx
I
THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
JiLDtn fOoNO* :
SPOKAXE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 289
selected the location and named the place Lewiston, in the latter part of May
or the first part of June, 1861, in lionor of Ca|itain Lewis, of the Lewis and Clark
expedition."
An act passed at the session of 1862-3 authorized David Williamson to estab-
lish and keep a ferry "across the Spokane river, at a point two and a quarter miles
above Colonel Wright's crossing of the same, witli the privilege of two miles each
way up and down from said point." For each footman, a toll of 50 cents could be
collected; for each man and liorse, and for each animal packed, $1.50; for each
wagon with two animals attached, $3, and for each wagon with four animals at-
tached, $4 ; but the county commissioners were empowered to regulate and change
tlicse tolls at any regular term of their eolirt. An anfiual tax of $25 was charged
for the franchise.
At the same session A. W. Compton and HcHry- Cames were "authorized to
establish and keep a ferry across the'T'ehd d'Oreille river at Singuackwateen,
with a 50-cent toll for footmen, but somewhat lower rates for conveyances than
in the case of the Spokane ferry.
Another franchise was granted to George ^Melville "and his associates to
establish and keep a ferry across the Kootenay river, at a point where tiie boundary
commissioners' trail crosses said river, known as Chelemta." All of these fran-
chises were in Spokane county.
At that period many Chinese were entering the country to mine placers that
were not considered sufficiently profitable by white miners, and the legislature
fixed a poll tax on Chinese of $16 a iiead, the proceeds to go to the school funds
of the various counties, excepting in Stevens, where the money went into the road
fund. By special act, it was jjrovided that "in the collection of the Cliinese police
tax the sheriff of Stevens county or his deputy shall have power to pursue any per-
son who shall attempt to evade the payment of this tax into any county in the
territory, and enforce the collection in the same manner as though he were in the
county of Stevens." Obviously the pioneers of fifty years ago believed, with
"Truthful .lames," that "for ways that are dark and tricks that are vain, the
ht.itlkii Chinee is |)eeuliar. "
At the session of 1861-5, Irwin R. Morris was voted a franchise to build a
toll bridge across the Sjjokane river, "commencing at a point two miles above the
house of Antoine Plant, and extending u|) said river a distance of five miles above
said jioiiit." County organizations were still faint and irregular, far while tin
grant lay within Spokane county the grantee was required to jjay into the treasury
of Walla Walla county an annual tax of $25.
And on the following d;iy, S. 1). .Smith was granted a franchise for a toll
bridge ".across the Spokane river at or near the ))laee known as Colonel Wright's
crossing, with the same re(]uirement as to i)aynient of annual tax to Walla Walla
county." The schedule of charges ranged from 50 cents for a footman to $4 for a
wagon and two-horse team.
Culture was not altogether ignored in tlu' interior, and Walla Walla was the
place to light and hold .aloft the lamp of learning. The legisature, at this session,
passed an act "to incorporate a library and literary association in the town of Walla
\\'al!a." with W. W. .Johnson. B. X. Sexton, I.. B. Monson, L. ,/. Rector, ,(. H.
290 si'okam: and tiii. im.amj lmimkk
Ktiulrick and Aiifrus McKay, and ''the officers and mcuibcrs of tlu- C ,illii)|)ian
society of \\ alia \\ alia" as incorjiorators.
"Said corporation may rcccivi- and liold all moneys or property coming into
their liands bv vi)liintary Mil)scri))tions. eontrilmtinns or otherwise, or a))ply the
same to the establishing and maintaining of a library, and may also receive and
iiold .ill donations of books, p.-qxrs .ind )>eriodicals th.at ni.-iy be donated for that
jiiirpose.
Travel over the ^\■.lll.l \\'.ill.i-('ol\ ille v.iUiv ro.id had been lie.ivy ;uid continuous
for several years, and ,/auies Monaghan .-uhI Willi.ini Nix. who h.id been conducting
a ferry at the Spokane crossing of that highway, about twenty miles below tlie
present city, sought and were granted, by tlie legislature of 1865-6, a franchise to
build .1 bridge. The act re(niirfd tli.it "the s.iid bridge shall not be less than eight
feet wide, and shall be substantially built, and sutticiently strong to bear up with
safety a wagon carrying three tons with the team attached." The franchise ran for
ten years, and the grantees were to p.iy an .mnu.il tax of $25 to Stevens county. The
tolls ran from '25 cents for a foot passenger to $1- for each wagon with two horses
attached.
Mr. Monaglian was one of the first white men to engage definitely and perma-
nently in business on the Spokane. He had come to America from Ireland in 1856,
and two years later came to the Pacific coast by way of the Isthmus, arriving at
\'.ineouver, this state, in May, 1858. l"or a year or so he worked on a ferry across
the DesChutes river in eastern Oregon; was next employed until 1860 on the little
steamer Colonel ^^'right. the (irsl ste.-imlio.at to run on the ui)))er Columbia. His next
occui).ition was on the ferry across the Spokane, which he bought from its former
owner and later converted into a bridge, under the foregoing franchise. In 1869 he
went to ^\■.•llla Walla for a short time, and the following year bought an interest in a
store at Chewelah. Washington, also buying from the Indians a farm on which a
part of tile town site is now located. In 1873 he removed to Colville. where he en-
gaged in merchandising until 1879. and then went with the L'nited States troops to
the nioutii of I'oster creek, in the Big Bend country, and the following s])ring to
Chel.in. In 1880 he took supplies by boat from Colville to the mouth of Foster creek.
Mr. Monaghan next came to Fort Spokane, at tlie mouth of the Spokane river,
where he was engaged in contr.acling for government supplies, and also served as
postmaster and post-trader of that ])ost from 188'2 to 1885. He and C. B. King
erected the first private boat on F.ake Coeur d'.Mene. running from Coeur d'Alene Citj'
to Old Mission during the gold exeiteuieMt on tlie Xortli I'ork of the Coeur d'.Mene,
and a year later they laid out tlie townsite of Coeur d'.Vlene. Mr. Monaghan came to
.Spokane in 1887. and this citv has since been his home. His son. .lolin Robert
Monagh.an. born at Chewilili. eiiliri li tin- Inited .St.ites ii.-ixal .•le.ideniy .at Ann.-ipo-
lis, was gr.aduated with honors, .assigned to service as ;in ensign, and fell in action,
under ))artieul.irlv heroic circumstances, in a hot skirmish with rebellious natives,
near .\))i.i in tlie .'^.imo.in islands. .\n impressive monument at the intersection of
Riverside avenue ,iiid Monroe streets, w.is erected by .idiiiiring friends and citizens
of S))okane .as a tribute to his gallant memory.
Cl.amor still rose for lutler iii.ail service, .and the legislature, in .Tanuary, 1865,
memori.alized congress to est.iblish a distributing iiosloiliei' at W.ill.i AV.all.i. In suji-
port of this request it argued that —
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 291
"There is, in the territories of Washington and Oregon, a combined population
of over 80.000 inhabitants; that in these territories rich deposits of gold and silver
are being constantly discovered and developed ; that the permanent population is
being steadily and rapidly augmented ; that mining towns are in consequence spring-
ing into existence in every part of the mining districts ; that the present postal ar-
rangements are entirelv inadequate to meet the growing demand for postal con-
veniences; that the city of Walla Walla is on the natural and recognized transit
route of the great northern overland mail, and is the geographic and eligible center
of distribution for the great mining districts of Idaho and Washington territories;
that at this time such settlements are almost entirely dependent upon the said over-
land mail, which arrives at Walla Walla three times a week, which city is already
connected by roads with Lewiston, Fort Lapwai, Fort Colville, Florence, Pierce City,
Elk City, Orofino, Deer Lodge Valley and other mining camps; that mail matter for
such towns and settlements must and necessarily does pass through Walla Walla;
and that the western portion of Washington territory, embracing the lower Colum-
bia and Puget Sound country, as well as all the portion of Oregon north of the
Calapooia mountains, can, with slight addition to existing postal arrangements of
overland service, secure the reception of mail matter from the Atlantic States in from
five to ten days less time than by way of Sacramento, California."
A memorial adopted in January, 1866, represented "that in view of the rapid
filling up of the comitry east of the Cascade range of moimtains with a hardy and
industrious class of immigrants, who are making homes for themselves and poster-
ity," there was urgent necessity at tlie earliest practicable date, of effecting a treaty
with such tril)es of Indians as had not already been treated with for their lands.
The memorial added that the Indians not treated with had manifested a hostile atti-
tude at various times and places for the last seven years: "that murder and theft are
of very frequent occurrence, and the security of life and property are in constant
jeopardy from the small roving tribes that have not been placed on reservations."
"Your memorialists would further represent that all of the Indian tribes not
treated with east of the Cascade mountains reside within the boundaries of Stevens
county, and that they number between 1,,500 and 2,000."
A memorial ado]ited in December, 186;), urged the establishment of a post route
from Helena, Montana territory, to Wallula, on the Columbia river, in eastern Wash-
ington, via Hell Gate, Pend d'Oreille lake and Antoine Plant's place on the Spo-
kane. In argimient it was represented that "the portion of INIontana territorv lying
westward of the Rocky mountains is fast filling with population attracted thither by
the rich mining fields recently discovered and already being successfully developed ;
that there is now in such portion of said territory an estimated population of some
iio.OOO, distributed in numerous mining camps and towns; that your memorialists
believe that these pioneers of settlement who are laboring to develop the resources
of the country have strong claims on your consideration, and that the encouragement
by the government of mining interests will materially tend to increase the supply of
the precious metals and their distribution, the result of which must secure a national
benefit, because of the fact that an abundance of gold and silver would defeat a
speculation in gold, and as the premium on that was reduced, it would measurably
enhance the value of currency, thereby alleviating the government in its discharge of
our great national debt."
292 Sl'OkAM. AND lllK INLAND i:.\ll'lUE
Mi-ii come and go, .iiid tlic yt-ars roll l>v, liiit aiiiiiiatiii<r motives remain tile same.
Portland and San Franeiseo nureiiants wanted the trade of the vast interior as
against the merchants ot St. I.nuis .inil Missouri river cities, wiio were actively
reaching out for it hy steanihoat transportation to old Fort Benton, on the upper
Missouri. I'ortland uurehants. forty or tifty years .ago. sold goods all the way to
Benton, .-iiul injoycd :i thri\iMg trade particularly at seasons whiu low water pre-
vented the Missouri ri\ir hoats from ascending to the head of highw.atcr ninigation.
The l.iti- ]'',dward Failing, long t ngaged in the wholcs.ale iiardw.ire line in Portland,
informed the writer years ago that hi^ house had placed m.iny .a rich order in the
country .around Fort Benton.
Tiiis motive of tr.ide ixpansinn w.is candidly |)ar,ided in tile memorial, which
added: '"I'he natur.il outlet of said rrgicui. u herehy its \ ;ist mineral wialth is to he-
come heneficial to the world, is through the Columhia river to Portl.ind, Oregon, and
San Francisco: that u|)on these points .and hy such chainud the ])()|)ul.ition of this
region arc to de))eud. ])rinci]),ally for their su|)pliis. .and a rcterenee to the map uill
demonstr.ite th.at through this eh.innel they can he easily, cheaply and c.\|)editiously
.supi)lied at all seasons of the year. And your memorialists may ,add in this connec-
tion, that if these settlements are made to depend upon St. I.ouis. they will he re-
stricted to the occ.ision.il tri))s of ste.imhoats .at the high stages of w.iter of the Mis-
souri river."
Bv whom could then lie foresi-en the swift, tr.insforuiing cli.mges of forty years.'
the Jiassing forevermorc, with the d.iwning of the twentieth century, of ste.auihoat
navig.ation on the Missouri: .and tin' construction, not of a single transcontinental
r.ailro.ad. i)nt half a dozen; and the luiilding. .at their erossro.ads hy the f.ills of the
.Spok.anc. of a city twenty tinus .as Large .as the i'ortl.ind of old? And whosi- tlu n
the vision to discern the rise hy the shores of lonely Puget .Sound of a city th.at should
cover by 1912 a population gre.ati r tliau ."st. I.ouis ho.isted when th<- ink was yet not
drv on this old memori.al of six .and forty years .igone.'
Oregon coveted then the f.air vale of W'all.a W'.all.a. .and the W.ishiugton legisl.a-
ture, in .a resolution passed .I.iuu.iry i). [HQCt. directed its deleg.ate in congress "to
resist anv and .all .attempt to diuiinish the .area of the ti-rritory of Washington liy
annexing Walla W'.all.a county to the st.ite of Oregon." 'I'he firm lielief w.as further
expressed "that such jiroposed s<-heme of .annex.alion mitts with the earnest disap-
])roh,ation of .a large m.ajoril\- of the eiti/.i-ns of s.aid county, .iiid tlnds no f.avor with
the people of the territory."
"Coming events c.ast their sh.adows lietore. .and the coming ot the Northern
Pacific was foresh.adowed in .1 resolution p.assed .l.anu.ary 1,"), ISiiti:
"Whereas there h.is been .1 proje<-t org.inized to eoinieet the griat l.iUis of tlu:
North with Puget .'^ound .and the I'aeilie oei .in hy .a r.iilro.KJ to lie desiguatrd .as the
Norllurn P.aeitic railro.ad : .and
"Whereas, We helieve such .lu ( ntcrprisi- Hciuld he greatly luiulici.al to W.ish-
ington territory in de\tloping its ^.•lri(lu^ :igri( ultural. uiiuer.il .and eoiiuuerci.al in-
terests ; therefore.
"Resolved, Bv the I.egisl.ilive .Vsseudily of tin- 'I'erritory of W.isliingtun. 'I'h.at we
li:iil with jov .an <aiterprise of this kind .as lending lo di\(liip not unly tin- interests
of Washington territory, hut .all the great Northwest."
An act adopted in Janu.ary, I8()7, defined the hoimdaries of .Stevens county as
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 293
commencing .it the ))oint of intersection of the forty-nintli parallel of latitude and
tlie boundary line between Washington and Idaho territories; thence west with said
parallel to tlie summit of tlie Cascade mountains; tiience southerly with said summit
to the headwaters of the Wenatchee river; thence down the channel of said river to
the Columbia river; thence down mid-channel of said river to tlie moutli of Snake
river; thence up mid-channel of said river to the boundary line between Wash-
ington and Idaho territories; thence north on said line to the forty-nintii ])ara]i(l of
latitude and jilace of beginning.
Out of this exjjansive domain Iiave since been cut the counties of Ferry, Okano-
gan, Chelan, Douglas, Grant, Fr.inklin. Lincoln, Adams, Whitman and Spokane —
material .imple enough in territory and we.ilth .uid v.ariety of natural resources for
an imperial state.
For the building and imijrovenunt of roads within this domain, the legislature,
at the same session, authorized the county commissioners to assess a road tax of -$6
on every person liable to perform labor on the jiublic roads, and also to assess
not less than '> nor more than 10 mills on the dollar of the valuation as determined
by the county assessor.
W. A. Ball and associates were authorized to construct a wagon ro.id from (ioose
Island on Snake river, to tlie Mullan road, "near the old Indian ferry on tlie north
side of the S])okane river, and to establish bridges on the Palouse and Spokane
rivers." A ratlier stiff schedule of tolls was authorized: For each wagon with two
animals .ittached, $12; for each additional span or yoke of animals, $2; for each
buggy and liorse. $10; for each horseman, .$1; for each loaded pack anim.al, .$2; for
each loose or unloaded animal, $1 ; for each head of liorned cattle, $1 and for each
footman, and head of sheep or swine. .10 cents. But these charges were to cover the
crossing at both bridges.
.1. D. Schnebley was given a grant to build .iiid operate a bridge across tin- .*^|)o-
kane "at a place distant from two to three miles above the ferry of Antoine Plant, at
such particular jjoint as may be most eligible for building such bridge."
At the same session, Patrick Farrell was authorized to build and keep .i toll
bridge across Hangman creek, on the direct road leading from Walla Walla to I'ort
Benton.
This famous old highway, located and built by the Lieutenant John Mullan, who
attended Colonel Wright in his campaign against the hostile Indians in IS.'iS. had
fallen into such a state of neglect that the legislature was moved to address a strong
memorial to congress, urging its repair. As that document set forth witli admirable
clearness the history of the road and the conditions existing in 1 866 throughout the
entire "u))per country," it deserves, at least in part, a place in this history. After
reciting that the highway, for much of the distance through the Coeur d'Alene and
Bitter Root mountains was in an almost impassable condition for wagons, on account
of fallen timber and destruction of bridges, it went on to represent that —
"The necessity for a great national highway connecting the Missouri and Colinn-
bi.i rivers by a good and substantial wagon road, was by its own import.uiee first
brought to the notice of your honorable bodies .as early as the year 1 S 1!). In the
spring of 1852, the necessity felt by the government for a more thorough .-md s.itis-
factory knowledge in detail of the geograjihie.il .iiid topograjihical character of
the country lying between the Columbi.-i .-iiid tin- Missouri ri\i-rs. induced eonirress
29i Sl'OKANi; AM) llli: IM.AM) I.MI'IKK
to make an appropriation for tin- purpose, and in tlie .s])ring of 1853, by authority
of congress, several eorjjs of engine<-rs and explorers were organized and sent
forth under tin- dinetion ct Honor.-ililc I. I. Stevens. The voluminous and truth-
ful reports of these several parties indueed eongress to aet and ait promptly, and
in I8,J7 Captain John Mullan was ordered into the field, being fully supplied with
all the necessary men and means, and was on the ground in the spring of 1858.
Commencing at Wallula (thru ohl I'ort Walla Walla) on the Columbia river, he
had completed the Walla Walla and i'ort Benton military wagon road in Sep-
tember, 1862.
■"I'lie opening of this road is of the greatest, most vital importance to the l)eo-
ph- (if \\;ishington. Idaho, .•ind that i)ortion of Montana lying west of the Rocky
inountains; and in the o|)inion of your uu iiuirialist>. in a militarv point of view
its iuiportanee cannot be over-estini.-itrd.
"Vour memorialists are of tin- opinion tli.il .i'loo.OOO judiciously expended in
re)),iiring said road between W ill.i Walla and Helena cities, a distance of H.")
miles, under the direction ol a competent engineer from tlu t'nited States tojio-
graphical bureau, will put the road in good condition and enable teams loaded
with freight and ni.ieliimry lo pass nvrr from lli<- Columhia river into the heart
of ;i rich mining country.
"Rich quartz veins are licing discoMrrd in thi- h, arts of the (\)eur d'Alene
and Bitter Root mountains, which will .r,- long demand macliinery for their de-
vel(i))mint. .and the working nl' Hhi<li, in connection with the ])l;icer mines, would
contribute largely to the devrlopuu lit of Washington, Idaho and the western ]ior-
tion of Montan.i territories.
'"rile opening of this road will enable a large jjortion of the population now
on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Cascades and Rocky mountains to use
this great thoroughfare in reaching tlic rich gold and silver iiiiiu s Iviiig along its
routi- from Helena west to the Columbiji river. Ag.ain. it is tlirougli this national
highway that tile immigrant from the eastern side of tin mountains. ;ind those
wild asci lid the Missouri river to I'ort Benton must pass to reach western Montana,
\\'.isliiiigt()ii and a large |iortioii of Idaho territorv.
'"I'lirre is a constant stream of population flowing into the region of eountrv
lying along and adjaeeiil to this so-called Midlan ro.id. The immigr.uit who is
seeking I'.arming land comes on down to the Wall.i \\'all.i and other rich vallevs Iv-
ing along the western ti-rminns of the road, and thence on to I'uget sound.
"There is at the present time a l)0|)iiIalioii of over 1(H), ()()() inlialiit.ints in the
territories of W.ishingtoii. Idaho and western .Montana. Itieh deposits of gold,
silver. cop|)er. le.id .and iron an- constantly being discovered and rapidlv developed.
Mining towns are springing into existence in .all jiarts of tlir newly settled region.
Br.ancli ro.ads leading from this ni.-iin trunk (Mull;in ro.-ul) to the different mining
cam))s are being made by individual enterprise. ,ind everything gives indication that
at no distant day tiiese hardy .iiid suecesstul pioneers will be knocking at tile door
of congress asking to be admitted into the sisterhood of states. But tlie |)0))ula-
tion of this vast region of country is too new aiui too i)Oor to be able to take hold
of .and rapidly eonii)lele such a great i ntcrprise as the opening of this military
road.
"The inhabitants, coming as they have from all parts of the United .St.ites, are
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 295
unacquainted with each other, and admitting that they have all the necessary means
within themselves for the opening of this road, a few months' acquaintance with
eacli other is not sufficient to establish the necessary confidence to organize a com-
pany and put forward to completion so great an undertaking. Nor is this all:
the great length of this road and the large number of people it would benefit when
opened demands that it should be a free road.
"Your memorialists wish to further show the vital importance of an early
opening of a free road through this rich and fertile region of public domain,
wliereby the producers of the valleys may be enabled to reach the mining regions
with their produce, and supply tlie miners with the necessaries of life at prices
which will enable them to remain in and develop the mines. We will give some
statistics carefully compiled and drawn from reliable sources relative to the produc-
tions and ruling prices for the same, of Walla Walla valley alone, together with
the number of tons of freight landed by steamers at Wallula, and the amount pass-
ing over the MuUan road by pack trains to western ^lontana.
"The Walla Walla valley, including that portion which lies in the state of
Oregon, has produced this season (1866) 500,000 bushels of wheat, 250.000 bushels
of oats. 200.000 bushels of barley. 150,000 busliels of corn, 170,000 pounds of
beans, 4,500 head of hogs, 1,800 head of horses, 2,500 head of cattle.
"From January 1 to November 15, 1866, 1,500 head of horses have been pur-
chased by individual miners at Walla Walla Jiorse markets, 2,000 miners have out-
fitted .it Walla Walla, 5,000 head of cattle were driven from Walla Walla to
Montana. 6,000 mules have left Walla Walla and the Columbia river, loaded with
frei"-ht for Montana; fifty-two light wagons with families have left Walla Walla
for Montana, thirty-one wagons with immigrants have come through from the
States via the Mullan road, a ])ortion of whom settled in Walla Walla valley and
the remainder crossed the Columbia -river at Wallula and settled on the Yakima
river, or passed on to Puget Sound ; not less than 20,000 persons have passed over
the ;yiullan road to and from Montana during tlie past season; $1,000,000 in
treasure has i)assed through Walla Widl.i and Wallula during the same period.
"The \\'alla Walla valley contains six flouring mills, six saw mills, two |)laning
mills, two distilleries, one foundry and fifty-two threshing, heading and rea])ing
machines.
"The Oregon Steam Navigation company have run a daily liut- of boats to
Wallula (Sundays excepted) during the jiast season up to the fourth day of No-
vember; since that time the boats have made four trips per week. These boats are
of the caiiaeity from 75 to 200 tons burden, and giving the very lowest estimates,
have landed not less than 5.000 tons of freight at \\'allnla during the season.
"As early as 1862, about the time the Fort l?enton wagon road was com])leted.
the Oregon Steam Navigation eomp.my buulcd at Wallula. from the fifth day of
•Julv to the eleventh day of October inclusive, 1,705 tons of freight, making three
trips ])er week, which is an average of over forty tons per trip.
"The government has a large w.inhouse at Wallula, a quartermaster's agent
in charge, and all the government sujjlilics for Fort Walla Walla. Fort Boise and
a large proportion of those for Forts Colville and Lajiwai are landed there. Freight
is landed at Wallula for Lewiston, Florence. Pierce City, Elk City and Orofino,
during the spring and fall, and for Helena. Blaekfoot City. Deer Lodge. Hell
296 Sl'OKANK AND TlIK IM.AMJ 1.. Ml' IKK
Gate, Bitter Root valley, Cariboo, Kootenai aiul I'rnd d'Onille lake, at all se.asons
of tile year, ice not preventing.
"Your memorialists will further >>tat<- tliat owiiif; to tin- condition of the Mullaii
road, the iirodneers of the Walla Walla and other \allevs adjacent thereto are
de|>rived of ;i valii.il)le market for tiuir jiroducts, .and the inhabitants living along
till- line of tin ro.id and in western Montana, are compelled to pay exorbitant,
not to say extortionate, ))rices for the necessaries of life, while the best standard
mills family flour is selling at Walla W.illa for five doll.ars per barrel, and the
best of wheat is selling at sixty cents ]n r lm^ill I : the trrifrjit on either of these
articles to Montana, via the Mullaii ro.id in its present eoruiilion. costing from thir-
teen to twenty-two cents i)er pound by p.ick .mini.ils.
"Your memorialists are of the opinion tli.at wht .at e.aii not lie ])ureli.ised .iny-
where in the United .States at wh.at it is now being sold for daily at W.illa Walla,
sixty cents jier bushel. Oats command from one to one .and one-half cents per pound;
barley from ()ne to one and one-tpi.arter cents jxr pound. Last year the merchants
of Walla Wall.a shipped over (iOO.OOO i)ouiids of oats to Oregon, and ll.'i.OOO
pounds of wool and .a large quantity of jjotatoes and onions."
The postoffice department had established a m.ail route from Wallul i to
Helena, making W.illula .a distributing office, and the memori.al eoneluded with the
opinion "that by opening the ro.ad we are assured tiiat we shall soon have what
the requirements of the country .and the number of inli.abitants demand, .a m.ail
coach on the route instead of .a train of p.ackhorses."
In this memorial is presented a vivid ))ortray.al ni conditions in liie Inland
Empire, five and forty years ago, and .a f.aithfnl picture of tr.afiic as it moved
over the historic old Mullan road. In f.mey we ni.ay conjure back the scenes of
other days, .and contrast with the ch.angcd conditions of tile jjresent hour the
stream of tr.allie as then it flowed along this old highw.ay down the wild v.alKy of
the Spokane. I. it us. in imagin.ation, take a position beside the pioneer thorough-
fare and await the passing of tlie tr.aftic of a busy day in autunni. Comes yonder
a long cavalcade of pack animals, with Lading of nu icliandisi- from Portland or
Walla Walla, cineiied iiigh above the rough jiack saddles of frontier pattern. It
is headed for tile Montana mines and three liundred miles away to the east an
enterprising merchant frets in ini)),atience ;is he scans his empty shelves and cal-
culates liis d;iily loss in the gold dust that would In liis il only iie li.ad tin goods
so wanted by the red-shirted, big-booted miners up I Ik gulch.
Scarcely h.as the dust raised by this shufHing e.ar.n.au been w.ifted away by
the vagrant bree/e than we may detect .a moving jiicture of a different sort. .\n
immigrant tr.ain is coming round a nr.ar-by bend .and stirring iij) a stu])endous
dust as it moves .along. Galloping a lidlr in .adx.anc . a liorseiii.an sights an attr.act-
ive camping ))l,u'e. with tile three-fold .adv.aiit.ages of wood, grass and water, scans,
under a sheltering h.and. tiu' meridian son. .and s<nds b.ack a long halloo who.se
cheery meaning even tlie j.aded teams .are (|niek to nnderst.and .and answer with
a quickened ))ace. Within a few minutes the little tr.ain li.as Imnbrred u]), wagons
come to rest .at various vantage points aronnd the wayside brook; women and chil-
dren climb out from the taivcrcd wagon beds; traces are unhooked, lines looped up
on the liames, iieckyokes quickly taken from wagon-tongues, and instantly we hear
a medley of jingling harness, rattling tinware and ciiildish voices made sharj) by
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 297
hunger's call. For they have come far since they left their camping-spot of the
night before and the days are long and tedious when one travels in an immigrant
wagon across the plains or through tlie mountains and the deep forests of the west.
They are on their way, perhaps from old Missouri or more distant Illinois or In-
diana, to a ])romised land in the Walla Walla or the Willamette valley ; and have
been steadily on the move since early spring gave promise of sufficient pasturage
to sustain their teams and cattle. Grim resolution, with sunshine and the winds,
lias fixed upon their features lines of determination, but hope gleams in every eye,
and quiet courage, and patient endurance. The long journey is nearing the end,
and the land of pleasant abundance can not be far away.
It is only a conjured picture, but we lift our hats to these immigrants of fifty
years ago. For they were strong, and they had confidence, and they were unafraid.
Builders of empire, founders of states, creators of towns and cities — thev have be-
come an almost vanished type, and with their passing, state and nation have lost
something of the picturesque and somewhat of rugged courage and virtue.
The Mullan road crossed the Spokane at Schnebley's bridge, two and a half miles
above the present town of Trent, or about 1'2 miles east of the city of .Spokane. If
ran, thence, along the north bank of the river, past the old Kendall (later Cowley's)
bridge, eighteen miles above Spokane ; and thence, by way of Post Falls to Lake
Coeur d'Alene, through Fourth of ,Tuly canyon, and up the Coeur d'Alene river,
by way of the Old Mission, crossing tlie Coeur d'Alene river frequently, and pass-
ing into Montana over the pass of St. Regis Borgias.
From tlie crossing of the Sjiokane river, it ran (towards Walla Walla) down
the Spokane valley a few miles, and turned south and left the valley at a point
about six miles east of the city, passing over Moran prairie near the present coun-
try residence of J. .J. Browne. It crossed Hangman creek about nine miles from
Spokane. From the Hangman creek crossing it headed southwest for the ferry
across Snake river near the mouth of the Palouse, passing enroute about three miles
nortli of Spangle, and thence to tlie Hines place on lower Rock creek, where a settler
named Hines ran an eating place. From the Hines place it ran by waj' of lake
Colville, near the present town of Sprague to Cow creek, the next stopping place,
and then on to the crossing of the Snake. Beyond Snake river it ran by way of
the Touchet river to Waitsburg, and thence on to Walla Walla.
CHAPTER XXXII
LEGISLATIVE HISTORY COXTIXUED
MAIL BETWEEN WALLA WALLA AND PINKNEY CITY LEGISLATURE PLEADS POVERTY
PRAIRIE FIRES AGITATION TO ANNEX IDAHO PANHANDLE CLAMOR FOR LAND
OFFICE AT WALLA WALLA SETTLERS COME INTO PALOUSE COUNTRY WHITMAN
COUNTY CREATED CONDITIONS IN COLVILLE VALLEY BEGINNING OF FAMOUS LIEU
LAND STRUGGLE AGITATION FOR AN OPEN RIVER EARLY DAY ROAD BUILDING
LAWFUL FENCES DEFINED LAND OFFICE AT COLVILLE MILITARY POST AT SPO-
KANE CREATION OF SPOKANE COUNTY FIRST APPLICATION OF THE REFEREN-
UUJI PROHIBITION STRIP ALONG THE NORTHERN PACIFIC GROWTH OF THE TER-
RITORY MEMORIAL FOR MILITARY TELEGRAPH LINE.
A MEMORIAL to the postmaster-general, December 15. 1866. represented
that 'luuler an order issued by the postal department, the postmaster was
instructed not to pay over $4,000 for carrying the mail between Walla
Walla and Pinkney City," but this sum was deemed inadequate for the distance of
229 miles and the character of the country traversed. On solicitation of citizens
of Walla Walla and Stevens county, J. R. Bates and a man named Brennick had
been induced to cover the route at that rate for three months only, on an under-
standing that the matter would be taken up with the department and an increase
asked to $7,000. This consideration the legislature thought reasonable, and the
increase was therefore asked, adding that the mail on this route was important, as
there then existed at the Pinkney City end of the route the following government
offices: Custom house at Little Dalles. Indian agent and collector and assessor of
internal revenue at Pinkney City, and a military post. By a legislative act passed
a year later, the name of Pinkney City was changed to Colville.
In furtherance of tiie building of a trans.-ontinental railroad, the legislature
memorialized congress, under date of .Tanuary a. 1867, as follows: "That in accord-
ance with the rapid progress of commercial er.t!T"risc, and the increasing demand for
rapid intercourse across the domain of the LTnited States, from the Atlantic to the
Pacific oceans, the congress of the I'nited States lias ))rovided by legislative enact-
ments for the construction of two lines of railroads, known as the Union or Cen-
tral, and the Northern Pacific railroads, but the northern road has not re-
ceived the same assistance from the fostering hand of the general government which
has been extended to tlie central road, although from the natural condition of affairs
it is more necessary that such assistance should be extended to the Northern than to
the Central road, for tlie reasons: First, that in Wasliington tcrrit(n-y. the terminu.s
299
300 Sl'OKANF, AM) TIIK IXI.AXD F.>ri'II{E
of the road, tlierc is not sufficient capit.il tlir(iu;r|i,,„t tin uIjoIc territory even to
commence such an enterprise, wliile in California, the terminus of the Central road,
sufficient capital could be obtained, were the holders thereof willing, to build tlie
whole road without any assistance from tlie ;r,i,i ml ^ovrrmiieiit. Second, tiiat from
the geograijliical jwsition of the different routes, the northern road when eomi)lete(i
will build uj) ,1 national and international comuieree of far greater extent and v.ilue
than the central, and that the nature of the soil along tlu ncirthi rn route guarantees
the more rapid growth of a rich and Jiowerful agrieultural community along the
wliole extent of country through which it will pass."
In view of tliese considerations, the legislatur< prayed eongriss to pass an act
granting the same privileges to the Northern I'aeitie railroad eom|)any as had been
already granted to the Union Pacific r.iilroad eom|),iny.
The legislatures of 45 and 50 years ago were not ashanu-d to )ili .id po\i rt\ when-
ever a iirobability arose of obtaining something from congress by m.-iking that plea,
for we find frequent assertion, in old memorials .iiid resolutions, of the fin.inei.il
weakness of the territory and its people. They were rich only in anticipation, .md
eager to dip a liand in the opulent connneree of tin Oriiiit. And .i territorv m,i\ beg
insistently without s.ierifieing state ))ri(le.
At that time little had been attempted in a farming way in eastern Washington
outside of the Walla Walla valley. The exp.msive Palouse and Big Bend sections
were open grazing country, with hardly .i furrow turned .my where; and when the
luxuriant bunch-grass bad cured in tlie sunniiei- sun. il.-inger .-irose const.intly of
wide-sweeping prairie fires. To cheek that peril, tlu- legislature ])assed a l.iw in
January, 1868, to proliibit the setting of grass fires "on any of the unoccupied l:md
or lands, being known as jir.airie or ])asturage land in the counties of Wall.i A\:ill.i.
Stevens, Yakima and Klickitat," and jirov iding peii.alties of imprisonment in the
county jail for not more than one year, or .i line not exceeding .*.J00, or both iuijjris-
onment and fine.
Although Washington territory h.id .illowed, almost witliout a jirotest, Idaho to
be cut aw.-iy from its eastern area .i tVw years l)efore. .igit.ition now arose for
restor;ition of the P.niii.iuiilr. ,iiid Ihc Icnisj.iturc. in .l;iHu;ir\ . 1S(),S. .■i(h>|)ti-(l a
memorial which represented th.it :
"By the boundaries of Id.-iho tirrilory. tlirn- is a louij n.irrow strip l\inn' in the
northern portion of s;iid territory, boinidcd on tlic iiorlli hv lirilisli ((iluiulii.i. on
the east by .Montana territory, and o:i the west by ^\'.■lshingtou territorv: .ind lli.it
tile said strip of territory, at its northern extremity, is only .-ibout fifty miles wide,"
divided into tin' tiiree eounties of Nez Perce. Shoshone .md Id.iho.
"Your memorialists are assured, liy the voiei- of tlie residents .•md the press of
said Jiortion of Idaho territory, tli.it tiny ,ire desirous of being .iniiixed to the ter-
ritory of W.ashington : tli.it tlie connnereial. soei.il .md politie.il interests ot thi-
people of the s;iid northern jiortion of Id.-ibo .ire idc ntie.il with those of the (leopli-
of W.ishington territory.
"The great dist.-inee of these tliree iiorlhiru eoiiiitries from Hoise City the
capital of Idaho — a distanc<' of mcr ."lOO miles incurs great exjiense to said
territory, .-lud .also to their legisl.ators.
"And your memorialists would further show tli.it tin represent.itives from the
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 301
said counties, in order to reach their capital, are compelled to travel through a
large portion of Washington territory and the state of Oregon."
Believing that the people of northern Idaho desired annexation to Washington,
the legislature asked congress to make tlie requisite change in boundary lines. The
striking fact can not escape the reader that, after a lapse of more than -10 years,
the conditions set out in the foregoing memorial survive toda}', substantially as thej'
existed in 1868. By social and commercial ties, northern Idaho is still bound to
easterji \\'ashington ; and, just as forty-three years ago, the people of the Pan-
handle are required to pass through Washington and Oregon to transact business
at the capital at Boise.
The agitation, begun in 1S6S. has had frequent revival, and even now is not
wholly extinguished. It developed such strength when Cleveland was president
that a bill restoring the Panhandle to Washington passed both houses of Congress,
but failed to win executive a)jproval.
A memorial relative to the carrying of m.iil between Colville and Spokane
Bridge, adopted in December. 1 867, reveals the unsettled state of the country.
The postmaster at Colville had been instructed by the department not to pay more
than $1,500 a year for tiiat service, and if a contract could not be let, to discon-
tinue the route and tlie postoffice at Spokane Bridge. Ira Matthews was induced
to take the contract, but on the understanding that the matter would be taken up
with the department and increased ])ay recommended. The memorial set forth
tli.it in view of the length of tjie route, ninety miles, "weight of mail matter; difficult
roads, attributable to the character of the country through which the route must
necessarily pass ; the absence of settlement in a distance of sixty miles, rendering
it essential for the carrier to provide and transport necessary forage," the allowance
of $1,;)00 for a weekly mail was entirely inadequate, "in fact, not sufficient to meet
the necessary expense of keeping open the route." An allowance of $3,000 a year
was therefore urged upon the jjostal department.
A memorial adopted in October, 1869, urged the establishment of a United States
land office at Walla Walla, as "a matter of vital importance and pressing necessity
to all the people of Washington territory who reside east of the Cascade moun-
tains." It represented that "the only land office at which these people can enter
their homestead and preemption land claims is at Vancouver, west of the Cascade
mountains and about 250 miles distant from Walla Walla. The most of the home-
stead claimants have yet to make their final lioniestead jiroof; and the same is true
of the ])rcemption land claimants."
At that time there were in tin eciunties of Klickitat, Yakima, Walla Walla and
Stevens about 2,000 land claimants, and the memorial estimated that it would cost
them, on an average, $150 in traveling expenses alone if they were required to make
final ])roof at Vancouver, "while the government receives of the homestead settler,
in all, $22 legal tender for 160 acres, and from the preemptionists $200 currency."
According to this memorial, not a fifteenth part of the fertile and arable land
had lieen surveyed or settled.
Again the legislature urged upon congress the importance of aiding the build-
ing of the Northern Pacific railroad. This highway, it said, woidd connect with the
great lakes and through them with the St. Eawrence river, while the route, from
the headwaters of Lake .Su))eri()r to Puget Sound, was comparativelv short, well
302 srOKANi: AM) llli: IM.AM) KMl'IKE
watered and tiinbcrt-d, with ahundance of coal, "and capable of sustaining an almost
uninterrupted belt of population across the continent on either side of the road."
"This road," tlie memorial continued, "presents a direct, feasible and eligible
route across the continent which will open the territories of Dacotah, Montana, Ida-
ho, Washington and Oregon to civilization, settlement and commerce, and stimulate
the develoj)ment of their great agricultural and mineral resources; and whicli will
invite the commerce of Ja])an and China to our Pacific coast and across the conti-
nent, thereby increasing the national wiillh and revenue, and jiromoting our foreign
and domestic trade and the general iii(histry of onr |)((>]ilc. '
Prophetic words! And vision sweeping ddwii the century! Uttered by the
deep-forested shores of Puget Sound, in the unpretentious eajjital of the territory,
and with tHie backwoods for environment, but vibrant with an iusi)iration of ap-
proaching events of worldwide magnitude. These pioneer legislators of fifty years
ago brought to their tasks some of the elements of genuine greatness. Their "native
hue of resolution" had not become "sicklied o'er with the pale cast of thought;"
and while their old laws, resolutions and memorials reveal here and there an imper-
fect knowledge of the spelling book, they were generally framed witii clearness of
diction and a directness that miglit well be e())>i( d in these days of too frequent indi-
rection and evasion.
A hundred years .-igo, wlieu tlie lirst lur tr.idrrs eiiteriil this region, tliey tninid
and used .-in Indi.ui bighw.iy crossing the country from the Columbia river, ne.ir
old Fort \V,ill;i Walla, to tlu' Coh ille valley and the Kettle or Chaudiere falls.
When, in ISGO, government establislied the first m.-iil route in the section north of
Snake river, it ado])ted this prehistoric route, leaving W'all.i Walla and jiassing
thence by way of the Palouse ferry on the Sn.ike. (Hw creek, 15ig lake, .and lower
Spokane bridge (ojurated by .Tames Monaghan) to old I'ort Colville, a distance of
210 miles. This route w.as ])ursued initil 1867, when the service was shifted by
way of Waitsburg and Tucanon, in Walla Walla county, and thence via the ujiiier
S])okane bridge, twelve miles above the falls, to I'ort Colville.
A memorial ado))ted in October. I860, asked tli.it tlie service be restored to the
old route, reijresenting thai Waitsburg, Tuc.ukhi .uid other offices were directly on
the mail route from Wall.i W;ill;i to I.ewiston, .iiid could be sujiplicd with all neces-
sary mail facilities by Ih.if route without :iny additional expense to the government.
The memori.al further re|)resented "th.it as ,at jiresent arr.anged. the mails arc
carried on said route, in order to reach Fort Colville. a distance of 28o miles, making
the schedule time, on the trij). of twelve days; luil that mail m.atter is frequently de-
layed for four weeks, to the great detriment and inconvenience of many citizens."
It was argued tli.it liie route could be matirially shortened and afford bettrr facili-
ties and accommodations by having tlie mails carried as formerly when the route
was first established.
From time to tiiiii' a few settlers liad found tluir way into the I'.ilousi- eountrv,
and bv the summer of 1871 the possibilities there in way of soil .and climate had
been sudicicntly denionstr.ited to call for the (U-ganization of a new county. The
legislature recognized these new conditions, and ;in act approved by Governor Ed-
ward S. Salomon, November 29, 1871, set up the county of Wliitiii.an .ind dillind
the following bound.arics :
Commencing at a point on .'^n.ike ri\( r win re I Ik line dividing Jd.iho .iiid W.ish-
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 303
ington territories strikes said river, tliencc down mid channel of said river to its
mouth ; thence up mid channel of the Columbia river to White bluffs ; thence in a
northeasterly course to where the fifth standard parallel crosses Longenbeal creek;
thence east along said parrallel to the dividing line between Washington and Idaho
territories; thence south along said line to the place of beginning: Provided, That
until the fifth standard parallel is established, the line from White bluffs shall be
in a nortlieasterly course to the south end of Big lake; thence in an easterly course
to Stone house near Rock lake; thence east to the dividing line between Washing-
ton and Idaho territories; thence south along said line to the place of beginning.
As first board of county comniissioners the act named G. D. Wilber, William R.
Rcxford and Henry S. Burlingame. Charles D. Porter was appointed sheriff and
assessor; .Fames Ewart auditor, W. A. Belcher treasurer, John Denny probate
judge, C. E. White superintendent of schools, and ,Iohn Fincher coroner, "to hold
their offices until the next general election, or until tlieir successors are elected and
qualified." William Lucas, Jesse Logsdon and ,1. A. Perkins were appointed com-
missioners to locate a county seat until the next general election, when the deter-
mination of the permanent county seat was to be referred to the voters.
The new county was added to Walla Walla for judicial purposes; to tlie coun-
ties of Walla Walla and Stevens in the election of joint councilman, and to Stevens
county in the election of joint representatives. Stevens and Whitman were to divide
the debt of old Stevens county in proportion to the taxable property returned by
the respective assessors of the two counties. Whitman to issue county orders to
Stevens for its proportion.
Road-making, as always the case in a new country, was one of the most pressing
tasks, and to meet this need in part, the legislature at the same session directed the
county commissioners of Walla Walla, Whitman and Stevens, at their February
session in 1872, to appoint one citizen of their respective counties, "who shall be
and are hereby constituted a board of commissioners to view and locate a territorial
road from Walla Walla city via Waitsburg, in Walla Walla county, on the most
direct practical route to Bellville, in Whitman county, crossing Snake river at the
mouth of the Pinawawa, thence by the most direct practical route to Fort Colville,
in Stevens county." For this service the locators were to be paid a )xr diem of four
dollars each.
Even with the loss of territory suffered by the erection of Whitman county,
Stevens remained a county of "magnificent distances," embracing within its con-
fines nearly one half of the area of Washington territory, being 200 miles in length
and 1.50 in breadth, and containing 30,000 square miles. Interesting glimpses of
this region as it then existed are found in a memorial adopted in November, 1871.
It represented that Stevens county "is inhabited by the Spokane, Coeur d'Alene,
Isle de Pierre, San Poel, Okanogan, Lal^e, Colville and Calispell tribes of Indians,
in all numbering about 4,500; that Colville valley contains 127 white settlers, with
thirty women and 117 children, and that there are scattered in various settlements
here and there, in other parts of the county, 1.S7 white settlers, with forty women
and 111. children; that no treaty has ever been made by the United States with the
Indians of Stevens county, nor have they ever been jilaced on reservations; that Fort
Colville is a military post of the United States, garrisoned by a single company of
infantry, and situated at a distance of 200 miles from the settled portions of Wasli-
304 SrOkANK AND TllK INLAND EMl'JKli
iiigtoii territory last of the Cascade inouiitaiiis ; tliat the Indians inliabiting Stevens
county liavc heretofore been kept in cheek, owing to tlie jjresenee of tliis small body
of troops (since their defeat by the late General George Wriglit) but that when
lately it was rumored that the troojjs would be removed, they became emboldened
and openly announced their intention of driving out the white settlers and taking
possession of their property as soon as the removal of the troops was accomplished ;
that the settlers of Colville valley would be unable to protect themselves, and would
be compelled to abandon their farms on which they have expended many years of
toil, were the troops removed; liiat the settlers in other parts of the county, except
l)ossibly those living near the county of Walla Walla, would likewise be driven from
their homes by the Indians, and that hostilities between the whites and Indians
would almost necessarily follow the reniov.al of the troojis; that in anticil)ation of
the Northern Pacific railroad passing across Stevens county, settlers are immigrating
to it very rapidly, and that iti the opinion of your memorialists, the military post
already established by the government, with its garrison. sliouUl be eontiiuied until
the settlers are nmnerous enough to protect themselves and to eoiiviiiee the Indian
tribes living in that county that any resistance to immigration or hostilities to the
white population would be futile."
A marked change in legislative temper and policy towards the Northern Pacific
railroad C(>mj)any was manifested at the session of 187.'3. Prior to that time, the
legislature had been most sup|)licating in its pleas for giiu rous n.itional .aid and
encouragement for the eomp.any: but circumstances alter cases, and with the contem-
poraneous arrival of construction forces and settlers in eastern \\'ashington came
conflicts of interest, and the legislature felt in duty bound to eliam))iou the cause
of the settler.
A serious clash of title rose now between the eoin|i.iiiy and a large iiiniiber of
settlers. I5y .act of congress of July '2. 18()t. .i grant of land w,as given the com-
l}anv of "t-very alternate si'ction of public land, not mineral, designated by odd lunn-
Ih rs. to the amount of twenty .alternate sections per mile, on each side of said
railroad line, as saiti company may ado))t through the territories of the United
Slates, and ten alternate sections of land ))er mile on each side of s.aid railroad,
whenever it |),isses through .an\ state: and whenever, on the line thereof the L'nited
States ha\c full title, not reservi'd. sold, granted or otheruiM' .appropriated, and
free from preemption or other el.ainis or rights, at the timi- the line of said road is
definitilv fixed, .aiul a pl.it tliireof filed in tin oiliee of the connnissioiur of the gener.al
land dtliei'; and whenever prior to said lime, any ol said sections or p.irts ot said sec-
tions shall have been granted, sold, reserved, occupied by homeste.id settlers, or prc-
em|>tion or otherwise disposed of, other band shall be selected by said company in lieu
thereof."
Under this grant the company filed its map of definite route in the offici' of the
eonunissioner of the gener.al band otiiee. .Xugust 1:1. 1,S7(). and the seeretarx' ot the
interior. .1. I), Cox, held in a letter to tin piasident of the N'orlhern Pacific, th.at
such withdr.awal should take etl'eet from .and .after the receipt of the map of the
s.inie .at the local United .States band ofllei s. Tbesi maps, tluuigh filed at U'.asbing-
1(111 in August, were not filed in llie local land cilliees in eastern W.asbirigtoii till the
tolliiwiiig Oetolnr. .and in this interim ni.iny settlers filed on odd numbered sections
within the grant. Hy the decision of Secret.ary Cox, these settlers were within their
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A^Tvn. Liw«X
TILBCN FOUNOATICNI
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 305
riji'lits ; lint liis successor subsequently reversed that decision and held that the rail-
roMfl's title attached from tiie time of filing at Washington, and consequently settlers
who went upon these lands after August 13, were trespassers on railroad lands.
Out of these conflicting decisions developed the famous "lieu land controversy"
which entered vigorously into the territorial politics of the day, and which was
instrumental several years later in electing as delegate to congress the late Charles
S. Voorhees, of Colfax and Spokane, who championed the cause of the settlers
against the railroad company.
A memorial adopted in November, 1875, declared that the settlers "went upon
the lands in good faith for the ])urpose of making homes for themselves and families ;
that the decision of Secretary Delano gives over to the railroad company
the homes and improvements of settlers with the labor of years expended thereon ;
th.it at the time of making their settlements and filing, the tracts were unoccupied
and una])pro))riated i)ublic lands, and considered by all the land officers of the gov-
ernment, from the highest to the lowest, as property subject to homestead and pre-
emption; and that said railroad demands of such settlers that they shall purchase
of it. and asks such an exorbitant ]irice for each tract that the settlers are both
unwilling and unable to purchase. '
The memorial charged President Cass of the Nortiiern Pacific with broken faith
and open repudiation of written promises to relinquish these lands to the settlers
and take other Lands in lieu under a sjHcial act of congress which had been passed
to cure tlie injustice, and generally assumed a hostile attitude against the company.
Similar conflicts of interest had develo])ed in western Washington, along the line
between Tacoma and Kalama on tlie Columbia river, and altogether the Nortiiern
Pacific had made itself intensely unpopular in a territory whose people had pre-
viously bowed down before it almost to the point of worship.
After pointing out that the grant liad been made by congress on condition that
the company complete not less than 1 00 miles of "track ■yearly, and alleging that it
had built no road at all within tlie two jireceding years, the legislature further pro-
tested against the contention of the railro.id that it was exempt from taxation within
the territories, and concluded :
"Wherefore, in consideration of the facts herein stated, your memorialists, as a
matter of justice to the people of the territory, would most respectfully and earnestU'
ask that the lands in this territory unearned by the completed road of said company
lie restored to homestead and preemption settlement; that sueli legislation as will
require said company to bear its proper burden of taxation may be adopted, and that
the act of congress approved June 22, ISTl, entitled 'an act for tlie relief of settlers
on r.iilroad lands,' be so amended as to permit bona fide settlers, who settled or
filed in the local land office ])rior to the date of the company filing its map of definite
location, to prove up and take title from government without let or hindrance from
said Northern Pacific railroad company."
For nearly thirty years tlie Nortiiern Pacific resisted this plea for justice, oppos-
ing the settlers in the courts, before the departments and in congress, and interfer-
ing continuously with territorial and state politics. In this way it wore out most
of the claimants until they were glad, in order to clear title to their homes, to yield
to the railroad's terms of settlement. Many years later the old controversy was
ended by act of congress, but on terms that were considered immenselv adv.-mtan-eous
306 SPOKAXF, AM) Till'. INLAND K.Ml'IRE
to the company, and which broujtlit upon L'nitid States Senator John L. Wilson
some criticism for his |)art in introducing and advocating the curative legislation.
An act to encourage forestation in eastern Washington found legislative favor
in November, 1873. It authorized the commissioners of Stevens and Whitman coun-
ties "to exempt from taxation, except for territorial purposes, the real or personal
property of each taxpayer who shall, within the county within such year, plant and
suitably cultivate one or more acres of forest trees for timber, to an amount not
exceeding .$300 for each acre."
A memorial adopted in November, 1873, and signed by N. T. Caton as speaker
of (he house of representatives, and Wm. McLane as president of the council, prayed
congress for an appropriation to overcome obstacles in the Columbia river. It rep-
resented that —
'"I'lie Cascade mountains divide the territory into western and eastern Washing-
ton ; that eastern Washington territory is almost exclusivelv a grazing and agricul-
tural country, that the soil is capable of producing all the grasses and cereals known
to the middle and western states ; that the product of Walla Walla countj* alone, with
a population of about 8,000 souls, in its grain yield for the year 1873, as shown by
the most carefully prepared statistics, will reach the enormous sum of 1,000,000
bushels. That large bodies of land in the counties of Walla Walla. Stevens, Yakima
and Whitman are equally as susceptible of cultivation as those already occupied,
imi)roved and cultivated; that the counties above enumerated are fast filling up with
an intelligent and industrious population."
The people residing in eastern Washington, it was pointed out, were almost
wholly dejiendent on the Columbia river for an outlet to the Pacific ocean and to
markets for tin- products of their soil and tin- fruits of tliiir labor, and the memorial
added :
"That from the points of shi](nii nt on tlic Columbia river to the junction of the
Willamette river therewith, nature has opposed great obstacles to the free and suc-
cessful navigation of the stream — one at The Dalles and one at the Cascades, making
a portage of fourteen miles at the former place, and of five or six at the latter, an
imjjerative necessity. The costs and expenses attending the transportation of freight
over the portages aforesaid are so burdensome on the people of eastern Washington
as to amount to an almost entire prohibition ; that the people may have an oppor-
tunity to develop the region of country in which they live, and at the same time pro-
vide the means of subsistence for themselves and families whilst thus laboring without
meeting with the great hindrances to the free navigation of the Columbia river, your
memorialists earnestly pray your honorable bodies to make such an appropriation
as shall in your judgments overcome the obstacles aforesaid."
Another memorial at this session advanced "serious and weighty reasons" why
nortliern Idaho should be annexed to Washington territory. Among these were
the "impassable barrier in the shape of towering rugged mountains, where perennial
snows ever abound, making it absolutely necessary, in order to have any communi-
cations Willi other portions of the territory, during eight months of the year, to
take circuitous routes through Washington territory and the state of Oregon before
any ])ortion of the balance of the territory can be reached, either on foot, horseback,
or by vehicle.
"We would tnrlliii- n |insent, ' eontiiuii's tlic memorial, "tiiat that |)ortii)n of
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 307
Idaho which it is jjroposcd to annex to Washington is a narrow strip of country,
about in proportion to tht- balance of the territory as the handle of a frjnng pan
is to the pan, and it lies contiguous to our territory, lying immediately east, and with
no barriers intervening. Its commercial, political and social interests are identical
with ours ; its products, climate and people are in every respect similar. It helps
to form one grand basin where there is no dissimilarity in the soil, the pursuits of
the people, the general appearance of the country or the character of its resources.
"Annex the same to Washington, and it must grow and prosper ; but keep it tied
to Idaho territory, and it must ever remain in a comparatively primitive state. As
where there is no affinity of interest, no affinity of feeling, and where there is so
little hope of ever overcoming to any great extent the rankling sectional feeling, that
sectional antagonism which too often is prevalent among the greater towards the
smaller population, there is little ground for hoping that these conditions will ever
be materialh' unchanged."
A little overdrawn, but having substantial basis of truth and reason. Ha))i)ily
the pessimistic predictions of the memorial have not been verified. Northern Idaho
has not "ever remained in a comparatively primitive state," for its commercial and
social relations, as indicated in this old plea for annexation, have been inseparably
bound up with those of eastern Washington, and these are ever more )5otent in indus-
trial and social progress than political ties. Some rankling sectional feeling there
lias been against the capital end of the commonwealth; but have we of eastern Wash-
ington not felt at times that our greater half, lying west of the Cascade mountains,
has been lacking in the breadth and understanding that would have contributed more
freely to our happiness and progress without impairing in the least the welfare of
our neighbors to the west?
We come now to the year 1875, and still the paramount need was better means
of communication — more highways and improvement of the existing ways. Con-
stant need was felt and expressed for more adequate communication between the
east side and the west, for in many respects the bond then existing between the two
sections was closer than that of today. The interior had then no other outlet than
to the west; was drawing almost its entire immigration from that source; and was
dependent on coast capital and enterprise for development of its resources. For
news interest the people east of the Cascade mountains turned to the coast; their
mail came from that quarter; they read coast newspapers, and most of them had
family ties on Puget Sound or down in the Willamette valley.
So keen was this desire for closer relations that tlie legislature of 1875 over-
powered its moral scruples, if such it had, and authorized private lotteries in the
cause of a highway across the Cascades. By statute "any person residing in this
territory who is desirous of aiding in the construction of a wagon road across the
Cascade mountains shall have the right to dispose of any of his property, real and
personal, by lottery distribution, under such restrictions and conditions as are pro-
vided in this act."
The chief condition was the payment of ten jier cent, of the jn-dccids of the lot-
tery to a trustee, who in turn was to pay it to a board composed of three citizens
of Yajiima county and two of King who were "to superintend the expenditure of all
moneys realized for the benefit of said road, under the j)rovisions of this act."
The road thus favored was to be constructed from Snoqualmie jjrairie in Kino-
308 SPOKANE AM) rilK IM.AM) KMIMRK
county, to tlie south end of Lake Kichclas in Yakima county ; was to be opened at
least thirty feet wide, all jjrades to be at least fifteen feet wide, and be a ])art of
a territorial road from Seattle to Walla \\'alla.
Another aet defined lawful fences in Whitm.iii and Y.akima counties: Plank fence,
four feet, eight inches high; ))()sts, five inches or more in diameter, substantially
set in the ground, not more than eight feet ajjart : the lower plank i)laced twenty
inches from the ground, second plank eight inches above tin- lower, and third plank
ten inches from second, the i)l.ink to be six inches wide, one inch tliick and firiidy
fastened to the ]>osts by nails, wire or otherwise.
Post and rail fence, five feet liigh, made of sound posts, five or more inches in
diameter, firmly set in the ground, not more than twelve feet apart, with four rails
not less than four inches in diameter, securely f.astened : the lower rail twenty inches
from the ground, and the remaining three rails not more than eight inches apart.
Provision was also made for post and jjole fences, "worm" fences, and ditches
of two designs, one design being a ditch three feet deep with embankment and sod
thrown u)) on inside of ditch two feet six inches liigh. with substantial ))osts set in
embankment, not more than twelve feet a|),irt. and pole or rail securely fastened
thereto not more than fifteen inches from the embankment. To sucii niakesiiifts were
the ))ioneer settlers of a |)rairii- rigion drivi ii in the early homesteading era of our
country.
.\n act .a))proved Novenibtr I",.'. 187;">, declared the .Spokane river navigable and
a public highwav from its mouth to the dividing line between Washington and Idaho,
"for the ))urpose of r.ifting, driving and floating logs, timber and other material."
Fines were provided for the piniishuuiit of persons who might ol)struet the chan-
nel, but it w,is provided, "that tht |)lacing of any mill dam or boom across said
stream shall not be construed to be .in obstruction to the navig.ition aforesaid, if the
s.ime be so constructed as to allow the |)assage of logs, timber and other material
without unnasoM.ible (hlay ; ' and jxrsons running logs were ui.ade liable for dam-
ages sustained by bridges.
Another memorial, urging the overcoming of obstructions in the Columbia river
and passed at this session, is remarkable for the accuracy of its jjrediction regarding
the wheat-growing )iossibilities of eastern \A'.ishington. That season's exportable
surplus from this district w,is given ;is 1.000. 000 l)us!iels. but it was estim.ited that
with lower freight rates the country <(iuld produce 20,000.000 bushels for export.
.Mthough wheat was then selling for .f I a bushel at Portland, the market price at
Walla W.illa. the principal |)urcliasing point in eastern W.ishiugton, was only 1;)
cents i)er bushel: tiir dillrnnee was .alisorbed in excessive transportation cliargcs
and high profits lor middlemen. .Attention w.is directed to a report of Brevet IJriga-
dii r-Cicner.il .Miehler. of the United .States engineer corps, estimating the cost of
short canals and locks at .t 1 .."lOO.OOO. The combined poi)ul.ition of eastern Wash-
ington, eastern Oregon and northern Idaho, "wliich would be directly .and innnedi-
;itely benefited by the removal of these obstructions and by the free navigation of
this river." w.is estimated ;it '.-ibout .'iO.OOO. a very large ])roportion of whom .ire
eng.iged in agrieultur.il |)ursuils."
'I'he esl.iblishment of ;i hand olfice at Colf.ix was urged in a memorial to congress
as "a matter of gr<;it importance to all the settlers north of .'snake ri\(r and east
of tlie Cascade inoiintains." Congnss. it .-iddi-d. "in justiee ought to .lel in this
SPOKANE AND THE INLAND EMPIRE 309
matter for tlic following reasons : The only land office east of the Cascade moun-
tains is at Walla Walla City, near the southern boundary of the territory, and dis-
tant about i200 miles from a majority of the settlers in said portion of the territory."
In the establishment of these local land offices we ma}- trace unerringh' the settle-
ment and development of the country. For several years a single land office at
Oregon City served the needs of the country. Later an office was located at Van-
couver, near Portland. Then, witii the settlement of the country east of the moun-
tains congress in turn established land offices at Walla Walla, Yakima, Colfax, Spo-
kane and Waterville in the Big Bend country.
Meanwhile settlement and progress drifted around Spokane, but prior to 1872
there were few happenings of moment at the falls. The site of the present city lay
off the two important highways of the interior. The Mullan road cut across Moran
prairie and struck the valley six miles above the falls, while the old Walla Walla-
Colville route crossed the Spokane at Monaglian's bridge some twenty miles below.
From ancient times the valley of the Spokane had been considered lacking in agri-
cultural ))0ssibilities, and was used ehiefly as pasturage ground for herds of Indian
horses and as an Indian race course where the neighboring tribes assembled to match
tlieir crack running horses and gamble furiously on speed contests. Homeseekers
passed its gravel soil eonteui])tuously by; and as lor wattr power, was not the coun-
try full of it, going everywhere to waste? No one could capitalize water power
in those days.
Hut witli the arrival here in 1871 of Seranton and Downinjr. the luiildiu!'- of
their little "nudey" saw mill, and the homesteading of farming lands in the Four
Lakes country and down around Spangle, the southern end of Stevens countv began
to command some attention, and an act approved November 9, 1877, authorized the
commissioners to levy a special tax on the assessable property of the county "for
the purpose of building a bridge across the Sjjokane river at or near Spokane Falls."
.Some of the newcomers into eastern \\'as]iing-ton. moved bv memories of their
boyhood days in eastern states, had attempted to stock the country with "Bob ^^'llite"
(juail, and an act approved November 9. 1877, provided that "anv person or per-
sons who shall buy, sell, shoot, kill, snare or traj) any quail in the counties of \\'al]a
Walla, Columbia and Whitman before the first day of September, 1881, shall be
ileemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and on conviction . . . shall be fined not more
than .t.50 nor less than $10, one-half to be paid to the informer and the other to go
into the county school fund." Eitlier the law proved ineffective, or the imported
birds failed to thrive and multiply in their new environment, for the quail was
comparatively an unknown bird in this region until later efforts by sportsmen of
Spokane ))roved measurably successful in introducing it here in numbers.
Alarmed by the apparent policy of the Northern Pacific to seek another terminus
on Puget .Sound or the Columbia river, enterprising citizens of Seattle projected a
railroad from their town to Walla ^Valla, and obtained, at the legislative session
of 1877, the passage of an act authorizing various counties to subscribe to the cap-
ital stock: King and Walla Walla, $100,000 each; Yakima, $50,000; Columbia,
$7.'),000; Whitman, $60,000; Stevens, $20,000; Klickitat, $10,000; and various other
counties $,'5,000 each.
Some progress was made in construetion out of .Seattle, but the line never o-ot
verv far into the Cascade mountains.
310 SI'OKANK AM) ■|'IIi: IM.ANU I.Ml'IKK
Congress was memorialized at tliis session to convert the Colville valley into an
Indian reservation. It was represented —
'That the unsettled condition of the Indians east of the Cascade mountains in
Washington territory, is alike injurious to the Indians and the white people. The
permanent location of these Indians upon one reservation would result in the pros-
perity and peace of both the white people and the Indians.
"We would further represent that tlie Colville valley is .-idmirably adapted for
an Indian territory for all the Indians east of the Cascade mountains, not only on
account of its arable lands, the roots, camas and salmon fisheries, but also on account
of its situation, which, owing to the surrounding country, can never to intrenched
upon by any white settlements. The remnants of different tribes to whom reserva-
tions have been assigned under different treaties, to the exclusion of white settlers,
derive no benefit from these reservations which they could not fully enjoy in Col-
ville vallev. Yet their occupancy of the different reservations keeps a body of fine,
arable land from cultivation and settlement by white people These different reser-
vations together contain more arable land than the Colville valley, and their situa-
tion in close proximity to the settlements of white people, makes a change not only
desirable, but also of ultimate benefit to all concerned, and thereby the peace of
the country will be more fully secured."
This petition, it need scarcely be added, passed unheeded by congress.
Another memorial adopted at this session prayed for the establishment of a mili-
tary ])ost at Spokane Falls. It represented that —
"There is a large mnnlur of Indians in Stevens, Columbia and Wliiluian coun-
ties; tiiat many of tlitni are untreated with, and that large numbers roam over the
country at will. That since the late war with Joseph and his tribe, these Indians
have manifested more or less hostile feeling toward the white people. That the
white settlers in these counties and in the county of Yakima are widely scattered
over this vast area of countr_v, and in case of Indian outbreak are totallv unpro-
tected. That experience has demonstrated the imijossibility of the attempt to confine
the majority of these Indians to reservations. That in view of the above-mentioned
f.-icts, there is an urgent necessity for a military post somewhere in the section of
country above referred to;" and tin- legislature carncstlv asked that it be estab-
lished at "Spokane Falls, Stevens county, Washington."
At the datr nl' tin- .uloiition ol tills nuiiiorial two companies of United States
troops were stationed tenipor.-irily .il .Spi)k,ine, and the settlers there and in the
surrounding country wanted to retain them. That was the J'car of the Nez Perce
liuli-iti war, .and when Chief .loseph took the war])ath, these two companies had been
hurried to Sjjokane to overawe the Spokanes, the Coeur d'Alencs and other neigh-
boring tribes and tints restrain them from taking up arms in alliance with the hos-
tiles. The frightful atrocities of savage warfare had been enacted almost within
view of liir .ilarmed settlers of the Spokane country. Women and eliildren here
were still trembling in fear and horror ;is they tlioughl upon the shocking ernilties
perpetrated by .Joseph's retreating army as it swi))t across Camas prairie, near the
present flourishing town of Grangeville, Idaho, where women were slain, scalps
taken, children butchered, and the tongues of some victims torn out by the roots.
It was a time of unrest among the Indians and uncertainty and alarm in the minds
SPOKAXE AXD THK INLAND EMPIRE 311
of till' scattertd lioiue-builders, and an intense desire existed to keep these soldiers
in tlu- country for tlitir moral and restraining influence on the agitated Indians.
General W. T. Sherman had traversed this region a few months prior to the
adoption of this memorial. With an armed escort he had traveled from old Fort
Benton, at the head of navigation on the Missouri river, coming over the Mullan
road. He had camped one night on the shore of Lake Coeur d'Alene, and the follow-
ing day he and his party were guests of James N. Glover at the Falls. Mr. Glover
made good use of the opportunity thus presented to urge upon the General's mind
the need of a permanent garrison in this vicinity, and on his representation General
Sherman ordered two companies, then in this vicinity, to go into winter quarters
at Spokane. He had been deeply impressed with the beauty and advantages of Lake
Coeur d'Alene, and on his recommendation a site adjoining the present city of Coeur
d'Alene was selected by the war department for a permanent post. The soldiers
wintered by the falls, but were moved to Fort Sherman by the lake the following
May.
Tlie presence of this strong garrison allayed fear and restored confidence; the
Indians assumed a friendly demeanor, and the work of peopling the wilderness went
forward with renewed vigor. Enticed by glowing reports of the salubrity of the
climate, the beauty of the landscape and the fertility of the-soil, homeseekers entered
the Inland Empire in constantly increasing numbers and took up fat homesteads
on the fertile lands of the Palouse. The little settlement by the Falls felt the vivi-
fying influence of this immigration and developed aspirations f 
