MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY,
VOL. VIII. PLATE X.
HISTORY OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSIS
SIPPI RIVER AND THE ADVENT OF
COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA.*
BY CAPTAIN RUSSELL BLAKELEY.
With, the hope that I may add something to what we know
of the past, and in compliance with the often-expressed wish
of the Council of the Minnesota Historical Society, I have
ventured to prepare this paper.
The discovery of the Mississippi river has always been an
interesting theme of discussion, and especially so to those who
live upon its banks, and all information on this great event
should be welcomed to the pages of the collections of the His-
torical Society.
Prof. J. G. Shea, in his discussion of this subject, brought
together all the information within his reach for the purpose
of a full illustration of his subject. I shall follow his very
judicious example, and my line of discussion, by bringing to-
gether the record as I find it, will be very largely an elucidation
of what I may present for consideration.
Without a review of antecedent history, it will be sufficient
for my purpose to date my inquiry from the year 1627, when
Louis XHL, under the inspiration of his great minister, Rich-
elieu, granted to the One Hundred Associates, called the Com-
pany of New France, the feudal lordship of Canada for all
time, and to the Jesuits the sole religious supremacy as well.
The territory embraced in this kingly bounty extended from
the Gulf of Mexico on the south to the Arctic ocean on the
north, and from the island of Newfoundland to the headwaters
of the St. Lawrence river. Richelieu himself was made head
of this modest corporation. Quebec was made the chief city
for the fur trade, and in 1640 it was supposed to contain about
*Read in part at the monthly meeting of the Executive Council, Oct. 12,
1896.
ill— 3
304 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
two hundred and forty inhabitants, composed of the Governor
and staff, Jesuits, nuns, agents of the company, and a few
colonists.
The Jesuits set themselves to work to convert the Ottawas
and Hurons by establishing missions among them.
For the history of this company and the experience of the
Jesuits and their missions, I shall depend upon some quota-
tions from the "Relations of the Jesuits," and from Parkman's
series of histories of the early days of New France. The en-
tire income of the country was dependent on the fur trade, and
amounted to many thousand francs, until the destruction of
the missions of the Hurons and Ottawas in 1649-50, when the
Iroquois succeeded in killing the missionaries and destroying
and dispersing the Indians, who fled to the western lakes,
islands and forests to escape from this fierce people. By this
dispersion Quebec and Montreal were reduced to a state of
sta<rvation.
Parkman, on pages 424-5 of "The Jesuits in North Amer-
ica," in speaking of this event, says :
The division of the Hurons called the Tobacco Nation, favored by
their isolated position among the mountains, had held their ground
longer than the rest; but at length they too were compelled to fly, to-
gether with such other Hurons as ha(J taken refuge with them. They
made their way northward, and settled on the Island of Michilimack-
inac, where they were joined by the Ottawas, who, with other Algon-
quins, had been driven by fear of the Iroquois from the western shores
of Lake Huron and the banks of the River Ottawa. At Michilimack-
inac the Hurons and their allies were again attacked by the Iroquois.
and* after remaining several years, they made another remove, and
took possession of the islands in the mouth of the Green Bay of Lake
Michigan. Even here their old enemy did not leave them in peace;
whereupon they fortified themselves on the main-land, and afterwards
migrated southward and westward. This brought them in contact with
the Illinois, an Algonquin people, at that time very numerous, but who,
like many other tribes at this epoch, were doomed to a rapid diminu-
tion from wars with other savage nations. Continuing their migration
westward, the Hurons and Ottawas reached the Mississippi, where
they fell in with the Sioux. They soon quarrelled with those fierce
children of the prairie, who drove them from their country.
The condition to which the colony had been reduced is
stated in a note on page 5 of "The Old Regime in Canada'/'
According to Le Mercier, beaver to the value of 200,000 to
livres were yearly brought down to the colony before the destruction
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 305
of the Hurons (1649-50.) Three years later, not one beaver skin was
brought to Montreal during a twelvemonth, and Three Rivers and
Quebec had barely enough to pay for keeping the fortifications in repair.
In consequence of this stopping of the fur trade, all per-
sons who had been engaged in this occupation were idle, if
not starving. The first information of a change in this condi-
tion of things is found in a letter of the Superior of the Jesuits,
Le Mercier. dated September 21st, 1654, published, in volume
2, "Kelations des Je"suites," chapter 4, page 9 :
After the capture of the surgeon of Montreal and before his return
from captivity, when we were between fear and hope, not knowing
what issue the affair would have, a fleet appeared at a distance, which
was coming down through the rapids and the waterfalls which are
above Montreal. We had reason to fear that the fleet was an army
of foes, but we perceived at their approach that they were friends who
were coming from a distance of four hundred leagues to bring us some
news from their nation and learn some from us. The inhabitants from
Montreal and Three Rivers had a double joy by seeing that these canoes
were loaded with furs which these nations came to exchange for our
French goods.
These people were part of them Tionnontatehronnons, whom we
call La Nation du Petun, of Huron language, and part of them On-
dataouaouat, of Algonquin language, whom we call Les Cheveux Rele-
vez (the Straight Hairs), because their hairs do not come downwards,
and that they make them straight like the comb of a cock which points
upwards. All these people have quitted their old country, and have
gone to 'fix their abode with the more distant nations towards the great
lake which we call Des Puants (Stinkers), because they live near the
sea which is salt and which our Indians call L'Eau Puante (the Stink-
ing Water). It is in the direction of the north.
The devastation of the Huron country having caused them to ap-
prehend like misfortune, and having been pursued everywhere by the
fury of the Iroquois, they thought that they could be safe only by re-
moving themselves to the upper end of the world.
On page 30, the same subject is continued in the following
words :
Another says that in some of the islands of the lake called Lac des
Gens de Mer (Lake of the People of the Sea), whom some improperly
call Les Puants (the Stinkers), there is a multitude of people speaking
a language which has a great resemblance with the Algonquin lan-
guage; that there is only nine days' journey from this great lake to the
sea which separates America from China, and that if there was some-
body who would be willing to send thirty Frenchmen to that country,
not only would we convert to God many souls, but we would get a
profit which would surpass the expense that we would be obliged to
306 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
incur for the keeping of the Frenchmen whom we would send there,
because the best furs come more abundantly from these countries.
Time will tell us what we know now only by the reports of some In-
dians, who affirm that they have seen by their own eyes what they ex-
press bjr their mouth.
In volume 3, "Belations des J&suites," page 2, the Father Su-
perior makes a further allusion to this subject evidently so
near his heart:
Towards the end of the month of August we see fifty canoes and
two hundred and fifty Indians, loaded with the riches of the country,
coming to trade with us, and to ask for some fathers from our Com-
pany to go to teach them in the thick forests of their own country, dis-
tant five hundred leagues from Kebec. In the presence of so bright
a day we forget all the past bad nights. Two of our fathers and one
of our friars take passage with thirty Frenchmen; but the Agnieron-
nons, whom we call the lower Iroquois, who have always refused to
make peace with our allies, cut in one moment the thread of our hope by
assaulting these poor people on their return, and by killing one of the
two fathers who were going to preach the gospel in their country.
I have here given what I deem a necessary preliminary, for
the purpose of introducing the two persons of all others who
appear to have been the first civilized or Christian people who
set foot on the soil of what is now Minnesota.
VOYAGE OF GKOSEILLIERS AND BADISSON TO THE
MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
The two Frenchmen, Groseilliers and Radisson, who have
occasionally been alluded to in the early days of New France,
and who have also been referred to by Rev. E. D. Neill in his
history of the Ojibways and their connection with fur trad-
ers, in volume 5 of the Collections of the Historical Society
of Minnesota, are, I think, entitled to still further consideration
by all who are interested in the past history of this state and
the valley of the Mississippi river. Fortunately we are in
possession of an authentic account of the travels of these men
in the language of one of them.
The volume in which the narratives of Radisson appear i*
entitled: "Voyages of Peter Esprit Radisson, being an Ac-
count of his Travels and Experiences among the North Ameri-
can Indians from 1652 to 1684. Transcribed from the original
manuscripts in the Bodleian Library and the British Museum.
With historical illustrations, and an introduction, by Gideon
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 307
D. Scull, London, England. Boston : Published by the Prince
Society. 1885."
The Prince Society has endorsed this work over the name
of its President by the following preface:
It may be regarded as a fortunate circumstance that we are able
to add to the Society's publications this volume of Radisson's Voyages.
The narratives contained in it are the record of events and transactions
in which the author was a principal actor. They were apparently writ-
ten without any intention of publication, and are plainly authentic and
trustworthy. They have remained in manuscript more than two hun-
dred years, and in the mean time appear to have escaped the notice
of scholars, as not even extracts from them have, so far as we are
aware, found their way into print. The author was a native of France,
and had an imperfect knowledge of the English language. The jour-
nals, with the exception of the last in the volume, are, however, writ-
ten in that language, and, as might be anticipated, in orthography, in
the use of words, and in the structure of sentences, conform to no
known standard of English composition. But the meaning is in all
cases clearly conveyed, and, in justice both to the author and the reader,
they have been printed verbatim et literatim, as in the original manu-
scripts. We desire to place upon record our high appreciation of the
'courtesy extended to the Editor of this volume by the governors of
the Bodleian Library and of the British Museum, in allowing him to
copy the original manuscripts in their possession. Our thanks like-
wise are here tendered to Mr. Edward Denham for the gratuitous con-
tribution of the excellent index which accompanies the volume.
BOSTON, 249 BERK ELK Y STUEET, EDMUND F. SL AFTER,
November 20, 1885. President of the Prince Society.
I fully agree with what the President of the Prince Society
has said in speaking of the orthography, use of words, and
structure of sentences, and will add that the utter confusion
manifest, in the way in which the narrative is told, has, I
think, served to mislead all who have attempted to review
the work. The incidents as placed in the text are without
order or coherent connection. In my review of the story, I
shall endeavor to bring into harmonious connection those
parts of this history which I think belong together, without
regard to the places where I find the paragraphs placed; and
it is my hope to make an intelligible and very interesting and
manifestly truthful statement of facts. My review will be
confined to the third and fourth voyages, and to matters
wholly connected with them. I shall not attempt to give the
verbatim language, nor the orthography of the author, but will
308 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
conscientiously render the meaning of the text. Commencing
on page 134 of the Prince Society's publication, we read :
So my brother seeing me back from those two dangerous voyages,
so much by the cruelties of the barbars as for the difficulties of the
ways, for this reason he thought I was the fitter and more faithful for
the discovery that he was to make. He plainly told me his mind; 1
knowing it longed to see myself in a boat. There were several com-
panies of wild men expected from several places, because they promised
the year before, and (to) take the advantage of the spring (this to de-
ceive the Iroquois who are always in wait to destroy them), and of the
rivers which is by reason of the melting of the great snows which is
only that time, for otherwise no possibility to come that way, because
for the swift streams that run in summer, and in other places the want
of water, so that no boat can come through. We soon see the perform-
ance of that people, for a company came to the Three Rivers where we
were. They told us that another company was arrived at Mont Koyal,
and that two more were to come shortly, the one to the Three Rivers,
the other to Saegne, a river of Tudousack, who arrived within two days
after. They divided themselves, because of the scant of provisions, for
if they were together they could not have victuals enough. Many go
and come to Quebec for to know the resolution of the Governor, who,
together with the fathers, thought fit to send a company of French to
bring back, if possible, those wild men the next year, or others, being
that it is the best manna of the country by which the inhabitants do
subsist, and makes the French vessels to come there and go back
loaded with merchandise for the traffic of furriers who come from the
remotest parts of North America.
As soon as the resolution was made, many undertake the voyage;
for where there is lucre there are people enough to be had. The best
and ablest men for that business were chosen. They make them go up
the Three Rivers with the band that came with the Sacques. They,
take those that were the most capable for the purpose. Two fathers
were chosen to conduct the company, and endeavored to convert some
of those foreigners of the remotest country to the Christian faith. We
no sooner heard their design, but saw the effects of the business, which
effected in us much gladness for the pleasure we could do to one an-
other, and so abler to oppose an enemy, if by fortune we should meet
with any that would do us hurt or hinder us on our way.
About the middle of June we began to take leave of our company
and venture our lives for the common good. We find 2 and 30 men,
some inhabitants, some Gailliards that desired but do well. What
fairer bastion than a good tongue, especially when one sees his owu
chimney smoke, or when we can kiss our own wives or kiss our neigh-
bor's wife with ease and delight? It is a strange thing when victuals
are wanting, work whole nights and days, lie down on the bare ground,
and not always that hap, the breech in the water, the fear in the but-
tocks, to have the belly empty, the weariness in the bones, and drowsi-
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 309
ness of the body by the bad weather that you are to suffer, having
nothing to keep you from such calamity.
At last we take our journey to see the issue of a prosperous ad-
venture in such a dangerous enterprise. We resolved not to be the
first that should complain. The French were together in order, the
wild men also, saving my brother and I, that were accustomed to such
like voyages, have fear for what happened afterwards. Before our
setting forth we made some gifts, and by that means we were sure of
their good will, so that he and I went into the boats of the wild men. We
were nine and twenty French in number and six wild men. We em-
barked our train in the night, because our number should not be known
to some spies that might be in some ambush to know our departure;
for the Iroquois are always abroad. We were two nights to get to
Mont Royal, where eight Ottawas stayed for us and two French. If
not for that company, we had passed the River of the Meadows which
makes an isle of Mont Royal and loins itself to the lake of St. Louis,
three leagues further than the height of that name.
We stayed no longer there than as the French got themselves ready.
We took leave without the noise of guns. We cannot avoid the ambush
of that eagle, which is like the owl that sees better in the night than
in the day. We were not sooner come to the first river, but our wild
men see five sorts of people of divers countries, laden with merchan-
dise and guns, which served them for a show than for a defence, if by
chance they should be set on. So that the glory begins to show itself.
No order being observed among them, the one sings, the other before
goes in the posture. Without bad encounter we advanced three days.
There was no need of such silence among us. Our men composed only
of seven score, we had done well if we had kept together, not to go be-
fore in the river, nor stay behind two or three leagues. Some three or
four boats now and then to land to kill a wild beast, and so put them-
selves in clanger of their lives, and if there were any precipice the rest
should be impotent to help. We warned them to look to themselves.
They laughed at us, saying we were women; that the Iroquois durst not
set on them. That pride had such power that they thought themselves
masters of the earth; but they will see themselves soon mistaken. How
that great God that takes great care of the most wild man created, and
wills that every man confess his faults, and gives them grace to come
to obedience for the preservation of their lives, sends them a remark-
able power and ordinance which should give terror and return to those
poor misled people from the way of assurance!
As we wandered in the aforesaid manner all asunder, there comes
a man alone out of the woods with a hatchet in his hand, with his
brayer, and a cover over his shoulders, making signs aloud, that we
should come to him. The greatest part of that flock showed a palish
face for fear at sight of this man, knowing him to be an enemy. They
approached not without fear and apprehension of some plot. By this
you may see the boldness of those braggards that think themselves hec-
tors when they see but their shadows, and tremble when they see an Iro-
310 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
quois. That wild man, seeing us nearer, sets himself down on the
ground and throws his hatchet away, and rises again all naked to
show that he has no arms, desires them to approach nearer, for he is
their friend and would lose his life to save theirs. He showed indeed a
right complaisance for saving men that ran to their ruin by their in-
discretion and want of conduct; and what he did was out of mere
piety, seeing well that they wanted wit, to go so like a company of
bucks, every one to his fancy, where his little experience leads him,
nor thinking of that danger wherein they were, showing by their march
they were no men, for not fearing. As for him, he was ready to die
to render them service and prisoner into their hands freely. "For,"
saith he, "I might have escaped your sight, but that I would have saved
you. I fear not death," saith he,— so with that comes down into the
water to his middle. There come many boats around him, takes him
into one of the boats, tying a cord fast about his body. There is he
fastened. He begins to sing his fatal song that they call a nouroyall.
That horrid tone being finished, he makes a long, a very long speech,
saying, "Brethren, to-day the sun is favorable to me, appointed me to
tell you that you are witless before I die, neither can they escape their
enemies that are spread up and down everywhere, that watch all mo-
ments their coming to destroy them. Take great courage, brethren, sleep
not; the enemy is at hand. They wait for you; they are so near that
they see and hear you, and are sure that you are their prey. Therefore
I was willing to die to give you notice. For my part, that what I have
been, I am a man and commander in the wars, and took several pris-
oners; yet I would put myself in death's hands to save your lives. Be-
lieve me; keep you altogether; spend not your powder in vain, think-
ing to frighten your enemies by the noise of your guns. See if the
stones of your arrows be not bent or loose; bend your bows; open your
ears; keep your hatchets sharp to cut trees to make you a fort; do not
spend so much grease to grease yourselves, but keep it for your bellies.
Stay not too long in the way, it is robbery to die with conceit."
That poor wretch spoke the truth and gave good advice, but the
greater part did not understand what he said, saving the Hurons that
were with him, and I, that told them as much as I could perceive. . .
We call him a dog, a woman, and a hen. We will make you know that
we were men, and for his pains we should burn him when we came to
our country. Here you shall see the brutishness of those people that
think themselves valiant to the last point. No comparison is to be made
with them for valor, but quite contrary. They pass away the rest of
that day with great exclamations of joy, but it will not last long.
That night we lay in our boats and made not the kettle boil, because
we had meat ready dressed. Every boat is tied up in the rushes,
whether out of fear for what the prisoner told them, or that the pris-
oner should escape, I know not. They went to sleep without any watch.
The French began to wish and moan for the place they came from.
What will it be if we hear yet cries and sorrows after all? Past the
break of day everyone takes his oar to row; the foremost oars have
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEE. 311
great advantage. We heard the torrent rumble, but could not come
to land that day, although not far from us. Some twelve boats got be-
fore us. These were saluted with guns and outcries. In the mean
while one boat runs one way, one another; some men land and run
away. We are all put to it; none knows where he is, they are put to
such a confusion. All those beasts gather together again frightened.
Seeing uo way to escape they got themselves all in a heap like ducks
that see the eagle come to them.
That first fear being over a little, they resolved to land and to make
a fort with all speed, which was done in less than two hours. The most
stupid and drowsy are the nimblest for the hatchet and cutting of trees.
The fort being finished, everyone maketh himself in readiness to sus-
tain the assault if any had attempted. The prisoner was brought, who
soon was dispatched, burned, roasted and eaten. The Iroquois had so
served them, as many as they have taken. We missed twenty of our
company, but some came safe to us, and lost thirteen that were killed
and taken in that defeat. The Iroquois finding himself weak would not
venture, and was obliged to leave us lest he should be discovered and
served as the other. Nevertheless they showed good countenances,
went and builded a fort as we have done, where they fortified them-
selves and fed on human flesh which they got in the wars. They were
afraid as much as we, but far from that; for, the night being come,
everyone embarks himself to the sound of a low trumpet. By the help
of the darkness we went to the other side, leaving our merchandise for
our ransom to the enemy that used us so unkindly. We made some
carriages that night with a world of pains. We missed four of our
boats, so that we must alter our equipages. The wild men complained
much that the French could not swim, for that they might be together.
The French seeing they were not able to undergo such a voyage, they
consult together, and for conclusion resolved to give an end to such
labors and dangers; moreover, found themselves incapable to follow the
wild men, who went with all the speed possible night and day for the
fear that they were in. The fathers, seeing our weakness, desired the
wild men that they might have one or two to direct them, which by no
means was granted, but bid us do as the rest. We still keep our resolu-
tion, and, knowing more tricks than they, would not go back, which
should be but disdainful and prejudicial. We told them so plainly, that
we would finish that voyage or die by the way. Besides that, the wild
men did not complain of us at all, but encouraged us. After long argu-
ing, everyone had the liberty to go backwards or forwards, if any had
courage to venture himself with us. Seeing the great difficulties, all
with one consent went back again, and we went on.
The wild men were not sorry for their departure, because of their
ignorance in the affairs of such nagivation. It is a great alteration to
see one-and-thirty reduced to two. We encouraged one another, both
willing to live and die with one another; and that is the least we could
do, being brothers.
312 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
The incidents attending the balance of this trip to the
Lake of the Hurons are very graphically described, and were
laborious and attended with much suffering and nearly starva-
tion, in a similar manner and at the same places as those
described in chapter 13 of "Pioneers of France in the New
World," which speaks of the discovery of Lake Huron by
Champlain in 1615.
After some delay and a season of mourning for those lost in
the fight with the Iroquois, the party is divided, one-half going
to the north, and the other to the south. Our voyagers joined
the party of the south, and made a voyage around Georgian
bay, and reached the island of Michilimackinac, where they
say they were possessed by the Hurons and Ottawas, who fled
from the attacks of the Iroquois when the missions of the
Hurons were destroyed in 1649-50.
We made large gifts to dry up the tears of the friends of the de-
ceased who were killed in the attack of the Iroquois. The neighbors
came to visit us and bid us welcome, as we are so. There comes news
that there were enemies in the fields, that they were seen at the great
field. There is a council called, and it is resolved that they should be
searched and set upon, which was executed speedily. I offered my
services, so went and looked for them two days, finding them the third
day. I gave them the assault when they least thought of it. We played
the game so furiously that none escaped.
The day following we returned to our village, with eight of our
enemies dead and three alive. The dead were eaten, and the living we
burned with a small fire to the rigor of cruelties, which comforted the
desolate to see them revenged of the death of their relations that were
so served But our mind was not to stay in an island, but be
known with the remotest people. The victory that we had gotten made
them consent to what we could desire, and because we showed willing-
ness to die for their defence
That nation called Pottawattarnies comes and meets us witih the rest,
and peace was concluded. Feasts were made and dames with gifts
came of each side, with a great deal of mirth. We visited them during
that winter, and by that means we made acquaintance with another
nation called Escotecke, wLich signifies "fire,"— a fair and proper
nation; they are tall and big and very strong. We came there in the
spring. When we arrived there were extraordinary banquets. There
they never have seen men with beards, because they pull their hair as
soon as it comes out; but much more astonished when they saw our
arms, especially our guns, which they worshipped by blowing smoke of
tobacco instead of sacrifice We desired them to let us know
of their neighboring rations Among others they told us of
a nation called Nadoneceronon, which is very strong, and with whom
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 313
they were in war; and anotiher wandering nation, living only upon what
they could come by. Their dwelling was on the side of the salt water
in summer time, and in the land in the winter time, for it is cold in their
country. They call themselves Christines, and their confederates from
all time, by reason of their speech, which is the same, and often have
joined together, and have had companies of soldiers to war against
that great nation. We desired not to go to the north till wa had made
a discovery in the south, being desirous to know what they did
We, finding this opportunity, would not let it slip, but made gifts,
telling that the other nation would stand in fear of them because of us.
We flattered them, saying none would dare to give them the least wrong,
insomuch that many of Hie Ottawas that were present to make the same
voyage. I can assure you I liked no country as I have that wherein we
wintered, for whatsoever a man could desire was to be had in great
plenty; viz.: stags, fishes in abundance, and all sorts of meat, corn
enough. Those of the two nations would not come with us, but turned
back to their nation. We nevertheless put ourselves in hazard, for our
curiosity, of stay two or three years among that nation. We ventured,
for that we understand some of liheir idiom, and trusted to that.
Before proceeding further with this extremely brief and
badly arranged history of this journey, it is advisable that we
again refer to the extract from the "Relations of the Jesuits,"
which after speaking of the Lake of the Sea and its multitude
of population, says:
That there is only nine days' journey from this great lake to the sea
which separates America from China, and that if there was somebody
who would be willing to send thirty Frenchmen to that country, not
only would we convert to God many souls, but we would get a profit
which would surpass the expense We now know only by
the reports of some Indians, who affirm that they have seen by their
own eyes what they express by their mouth.
These two Frenchmen are all that remain of the thirty
French who started on this expedition in August of the year
1654, and are now ready in the spring of 1655 to continue
this journey to the sea that separates America from China,
only nine days' journey from their starting point. They have
spent the winter with the Hurons and Ottawas, who were at
that time living upon the islands of the Lake of the Puans, and
at the north part of the bay. In the first description of the
route Radisson says:*
We embarked ourselves on the delightfullest lake of tlie world. I
took notice of their cottages and of the journeys of our navigation, for
*Parts of my quotations here and onward are italicized, that special at-
tention may be directed to them.
314 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
because that the country was so pleasant, so beautiful and fruitful, that
it grieved me to see that the world could not discover such enticing
countries to live in. This I say because that the Europeans fight for a
rock in the sea against one another, and for sterile land and horrid
country, that the people sent here or there, by changernent of air, en-
genders sickness and dies thereof. Contrarywise these kingdoms are
so delicious and under so temperate a climate, the earth bringing forth
its fruit twice a year, the people live long and lusty and wise in their
way
We meet with several nations, all sedentary, amazed to see us, and
who were very civil. The farther we sojourned, the delightfuller the
land was to us. I can say that in my life time I never saw a more incom-
parable country, for all that I have been in Italy Being about the
great sea, we conversed with the people that dwelleth about the salt
water, who told us that they saw some great white thing sometimes on
the water, and it came towards the shore, and men in the top of it, and
made a noise like a company of swans; which made me believe that
they were mistaken, for I could not imagine what it could be, except the
Spaniards; and the reason is that we found a barrel broken as they use
in Spain. Those people have their hair long. They reap twice a year;
they are called Tatarga, that is to say, buff They are gen-
erally stout men, so they are able to defend themselves We
were everywhere made much of; neither wanted victuals, for all the
different nations that we met conducted us and furnished us with all
necessaries
The summer passed away with admiration by the diversity of the
nations that we saw, as for the beauty of the shore of that sweet &ea.
Here we saw fish of divers, some like the sturgeons and have a kind of slice
at the end of their nose, some three fingers broad in the end and two only
near the nose and some eight thumbs long, all marbled of a blackish color.
There are birds whose bills are two and twenty thumbs long. That
bird swallows a whole salmon, keeps it a long time in his bill. We saw
also she-goats, very big. There is an animal somewhat less than a cow
Avhose meat is exceeding good. There is no want of stags nor buffs.
There are so many turkeys that the boys throw stones at them for their
recreation As for the buff, it is a furious animal. One must
have a care of him, for every year he kills some Nadoneseronons. He comes
for the most part in the plains and meadows, and feeds like an ox. . .
. . The horns of buffs are as those of an ox but not so long, but
bigger, and of a blackish color. He hath a very long hairy tail. He is
reddish, his hair frizzed and very fine; all the parts of his body much
like unto an ox. The biggest are bigger than any ox whatsoever.
The vines grow all by the river side; the lemons are not so big as
ours, and sourer. The grape is very big, green, and is seen there at all
times. It never snows nor freezes there, but is mighty hot; yet for all
that, the country is not so unwholesome for we seldom have seen infirm
people
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 315
We were four months in our voyage without doing anything but
going from river to river. We met several sorts of people. We con-
versed with them, being long in alliance with them. By the persuasion
of some of them we went into the great river that divides itself in two,
where the Hurons with some of the Ottawas and the wild men that had
wars with them had retired. There is not great difference in their
language, as we were told. This nation have wars against those of the
forked mer. It is so called because it has two branches, the one
towards the west, the other towards the south, which we believe runs
towards Mexico, by the tokens they give us. Being among these people,
they told us the prisoners they take tell them that they have wars
against a nation, against men that build great cabins, and have great
beards, and have such knives as we have. Moreover, they showed a decad
of beads and guilded pearls that they have had from that people, which made
us believe they were Europeans. They showed us one of that nation that was
taken the year before. We understood him not; he was much more tawny
than they with whom we were. His> arms and legs were turned outside;
that was the punishment inflicted upon him. So they do with them that
they take, and kill them with clubs, and do often eat them. They do not
burn their prisoners as those of the northern parts.
We were informed of that nation that live in the other river. These
were men of extraordinary height and bigness, that made us believe they
had no communication with them. They live only upon corn and citrulls
(pumpkins), which are mighty big. They have fish in plenty throughout
the year. They have fruit as big as the heart of an oriniak, which grows
on vast trees which are three armsful in compass. When they see little
men they are afraid and cry out, which makes many come to help them.
Their arrows are not of stone as ours are, but of fish-bones and other
bones that they work greatly, as all other things. Their dishes are
made of wood. I have seen them and could not but admire the curiosity
of their work. They have great calumets of great stones, red and green.
They make a store of tobacco. They have a kind of drink that makes
them mad for a whole day. This I have not seen, therefore you may be-
lieve as you please Tending to those people, we went
towards the south and came back by the north.
We had not as yet seen the nation Nadoneceronons. We had Hurons
with us. We persuaded them to come along to see their own nation
that fled there, but they would not by any means. We thought to get
some castors there to bring down to the French, seeing it at last im-
possible to us to make such a circuit in a twelve months' time. . . .
We came to the straits of the two lakes of the Stinkings and the
upper lake, where there are little islands toward the northwest, few
toward the southeast, very small. The lake towards the north at the
side of it is full of rocks and sand, yet great ships can ride on it without
danger. We, being of three nations, arrived there with booty, and dis-
puted awhile, for some would return to their country. That was the
nation of the fire, and would have us back to their dwelling. We by
all means would know the Christinos. To go back was out of our way.
316 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
This, I think, is all of the record, relating to the voyage
down the Mississippi river and back to the home of the
Hurons and Ottawas on the islands in the north part of Green
bay, that it is necessary to embrace in the discussion of the
discovery of the Mississippi river; and in order to do so
intelligibly I shall quote from the records of Marquette, Hen-
nepin, and the Spanish authorities, so much as I think will
enable me to prove conclusively that the voyage of Radisson
was down the Mississippi. The discussion will follow after
the quotations which follow here.
EXPLORATION BY MARQUETTE AND JOLIET.
First in order are extracts from an account of the dis-
covery of some new countries and nations in North America
in 1673 by Pere Marquette and Sieur Joliet, translated from
the French, and published in Part 2 of the Historical Collec-
tions of Louisiana, by B. F. French, in 1850. Commencing on
page 279, we read:
I embarked with M. Joliet, who had -been chosen to conduct this
enterprise, on the 13th May, 1673, with five other Frenchmen, in two
bark canoes The first nation we came to was called the
Folles-Avoines, or the nation of wild oats Having prayed
with them and given them some instructions, -we set out for the Bay
of Puan (Green Bay) This bay is about thirty leagues long,
and eight broad in the greatest breadth It atKmnds in
bustards, ducks, and other birds, which are attracted there by the wild
oats, of which they are very fond. We next came to a village of
Maskoutens, or nation of fire
The French have never before passed beyond the Bay of Puans
(Green Bay). This Bourg consists of three several nations, viz., Miamies.
Maskoutens, and Kickapoos I took pleasure in looking at
this bourff. It is beautifully situated on an eminence, from whence we
look over an extensive prairie, interspersed with groves of trees. The
soil is very fertile, and produces large crops of corn. The Indians also
gather large quantities of grapes and plums.
The next day, being the 10th of June, the two guides (Miamies) em-
barked with us in sight of all the village We were informed
that at three leagues from the Maskoutens, we should find a river which
runs into the Mississippi, and that we were to go to the west-southwest
to find it As our guides had been frequently over this port-
age, they knew the way and helped us to carry our canoes overland
into the other river, distant about two miles and a half; from whence
they returned home, leaving us in an unknown country
The river upon which we embarked is called the Mesconsin (Wis-
consin) We saw neither game nor fish, but roebuck and
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 317
buffaloes in great numbers We came into the Mississippi
on the 17th June (1673).
The mouth of the Wisconsin is in about 42° 30' north latitude. . .
. . We slowly followed its course to the south and southeast to 42°
north latitude The islands are covered with fine trees, but
we could not see any more roebucks, buffaloes, bustards, and swans.
We met from time to time monstrous fish, which struck so violently
against our canoes that at first we took them to be large trees, which
threatened to upset us When we threw our nets into the
water we caught an abundance of sturgeons, and another kind of ftsh
like our trout, except that the eyes and nose are much smaller, and they
have near the nose a lone like a woman's busk, three inches broad and a foot
and a half long, the end of which is flat and broad, and ichen it leaps out of
the water the weight of it throws it on its back.
Having descended the river as far as 41° 28', we found that turkeys
took the place of game, and the Pisikious that of other animals. We
call the Pisikious wild buffaloes, because they very much resemble our
domestic oxen; they are not so long, but twice as large. We shot one
of them, and it was as much as thirteen men could do to drag him
from the place where he fell. They have an enormous head; their
forehead is broad and flat; and their horns, between which there is at
least a foot and a half distance, are all black and much longer than our
European oxen. They have a hump on the back, and their head, breast,
and a part of the shoulders are covered with long hair. They have in
the middle of their forehead an ugly tuft of long hair, which, falling
down over their eyes, blinds them in a manner, and makes them look
hideous. The rest of the body is covered with curled hair, or rather
wool like our sheep, but much thicker and stronger. They shed their
hair in summer, and their skin is as soft as velvet, leaving nothing but
a short down. The Indians use their skins for cloaks, which they paint
with figures of several colors. Their flesh and fat is excellent, and the
best dish of the Indians, who kill a great many of them. They are very
fierce and dangerous, and if they can hook a man ivith their horns they toss
him up and then tread upon him They graze upon the banks
of the rivers, and I have seen four hundred in a herd together.
We continued to descend the river .... [to] about the lati-
tude of 40 degrees On the 25th June we went ashore [and
saw traces of men and were taken to their village] Their
language is a dialect of the Algonquin They keep several
wives, of whom they are very jealous, and watch them closely. If they
behave unchastely, they cut off their ears or nose, of which I saw sev-
eral who carried those marks of their infidelity. ... . . Their
knives, axes, and other instruments, are made of flint and other sharp
stones They live by hunting, and on Indian corn, of which
they always have a plenty Their clothing consists of the
skins of wild animals, which serves to clothe their women, who dress
very modestly, while the men go most of the year almost naked.
318 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
The writer (Marquette) here describes the calumet and the
ceremonies of the calumet.
We found a quantity of mulberries as large as those of France, and
a small fruit which we took at first for olives, but it had the taste of an
orange, and another as large as a hen's egg. We broke it in half, and
found the inside was divided into two divisions, in each of which there
were eight or ten seeds shaped like an almond, and very good to eat
when ripe We saw also in the prairies a fruit like filberts.
Marquette next describes the painted rocks, also the
floating drift in the Missouri, the water of which was so roily
or muddy that they could not drink it.
This river conies from tne northwest, and empties into the Missis-
sippi, and on its banks are situated a number of Indian villages. We
judged by the compass that the Mississippi discharged itself into the
Gulf of Mexico After having gone about twenty leagues to
the south and a little less to the southeast, we met another river called
Ouabouskigou (the Ohio), which runs into the Mississippi in the latitude
of 36° N
Marquette narrates their experience with the Indians on
the shores of the river, and that they landed at a village and
were entertained with buffalo and bear meat, also white
plums, which were excellent.
We observed they had guns, knives, axes, shovels, glass beads, and
bottles in which they put their powder. They wear their hair long as
the Iroquois, and their women are dressed as the Hurons. They told
us that they were only within ten days' journey of the sea; that they
bought their goods from the Europeans, who lived towards the east,
that they had images and chaplets, and played upon musical instru-
ments, that they were clothed as I was, and were kind to them. . . .
The account the Indians gave us of the sea was very encouraging, and
therefore we applied our oars with great vigor, in hopes of seeing it
very soon. The banks of the river began to be covered with high trees,
which hindered us from observing the country as we had done all along.
The elm, cotton[wood] and cypress trees are beautiful on account of
their size and height. We judged, from the bellowing of the buffaloes,
that some prairies were near. We saw quails, and shot a parrot.
. . . . We soon descended to latitude 33° north and found ourselves
at a village on the river side called Mitchigamea.
The Indians at this village were very troublesome and the
voyagers nearly despaired, but finally the Indians made signs
of peace and asked them to come on shore.
They told us that at the next great village, called Arkansea, eight
or ten leagues farther down the river, we could learn all about the
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEE. 319
sea We embarked early next morning with our interpreters
and ten Indians, who went before us in a canoe [After
arriving at Arkansea, we] asked them what they knew of the sea, and
they said we were within ten days' journey of it, but we might perform
it in five. That they were unacquainted with the nations below, be-
cause their enemies had prevented them from visiting them. ....
They make three crops of Indian corn a year. They roast and boil
it in large earthen pots very curiously made. They have also large
baked earthen plates, which they use for different purposes. The men
go naked and wear their hair short. They pierce their noses and ears,
and wear rings of glass beads in them.
The women cover themselves with skins, and divide their hair into
two tresses, which they wear behind their back without any ornament.
Their feasts are without any ceremony, they serve their meats in large
dishes, and every one eats as much as he pleases Their
cabins are made with the bark of trees, and are generally very wide
and long. . . . . They keep their corn in panniers made of rushes.
They have no beavers, and all their commodities are buffalo hides.
It never snows in this country, and they have no other winter than con-
tinued heavy rains, which makes the difference between their summer
and winter. They have no other fruit but watermelons, though their
soil might produce any other, if they knew how to cultivate it. ...
The voyagers turned back from the village of Arkansea,
and the following is Marquette's description of the country on
the Illinois river by which they returned to lake Michigan:
I never saw a more beautiful country than we found on this river.
The prairies are covered with buffaloes, stags, goats, and the rivers and
lakes with swans, ducks, geese, parrots, and beavers. The river upon which
we sailed was wide, deep and placid for sixty-five leagues, and naviga-
ble most all the year round.
HENNEPIN'S DESCRIPTION (1680).
I add some quotations from "A Description of Louisiana,"
by Father Louis Hennepin, Recollect Missionary, translated
from the edition of 1683, and compared with the La Salle
documents and other contemporary papers, by Prof. John Gil-
mary Shea, and dedicated to Et Rev. John Ireland, D. D., and
J. Fletcher Williams, President and Secretary of the Minne-
sota Historical Society, published in 1880.* The extracts from
*NOTE.— In 1880 the Minnesota Historical Society held a Bi-CentenniaJ
celebration of the discovery of the Falls of St. Anthony. I was a member
or the Committee of Arrangements. In discussing the appropriate order of
service to be observed upon that occasion, there was developed a difference
of opinion as to the credibility of Father Hennepin's published account of his
voyage. Rev. John Ireland became very earnest in his defense of the truth-
Ill. — 4
320 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
the voyage of Father Hennepin will be brief, as the references
made to himself are few.
On page 196 and following, in speaking of the River Col-
bert, the author says that it runs between two chains of
mountains and intervening prairies, upon which he often saw
wild cattle browsing. Beyond the river bluffs, here called
mountains, were vast prairies. Woods covered the islands,
and were interlaced with so many vines &s to be almost im-
passable. He describes the rivers Wisconsin, Black and Buf-
falo (Chippewa), and the Lake of Tears (Lake Pepin). "Forty
leagues above is a river full of rapids, by which, striking
northwest, you can proceed to Lake CondeV' Eight leagues
above the Falls of St. Anthony comes the river Issati (Rum
river), which leads to Lake Buade (Mille Lacs), the home of
the Nadonessiou.
The account of Hennepin's capture by the Indians begins
on page 205, and is followed by a narrative of his experiences,
with statements of what he saw and learned, during his
captivity.
The Indians at times sent their best runners by land to chase the
herds of wild cattle on the water side; as these animals crossed the
river, they sometimes killed forty or fifty, merely to take the tongue
and most delicate morsels, leaving the rest.
The chief, to whom he had been given, showed him five or
six of his wives. i
Sometimes he assembled the elders of the village, in whose presence
he asked me for a compass that I always had in my sleeve; seeing that
I made the needle turn with a key, and believing justly that we Euro-
peans went all over the habitable globe, guided by this instrument,
this chief, who was very eloquent, persuaded his people that we were
spirits, and capable of doing anything beyond their reach. At the close
of his address, which was very animated, all the old men wept over
my 'head, admiring in me what they could not understand. . . .
During our stay among the Issati or Nadonessiou, we saw Indians who
came as ambassadors from about five hundred leagues to the west
They informed us that the Assenipovalacs* were then only seven or
eight days distant to the northeast of us. All the other known tribes
fulness of the history, and wrote to Prof. J. G. Shea for his opinion, which
was promptly furnished; and with this authority he made a most satisfactory
vindication of Hennepin at the celebration, as may be seen in the record of
proceedings of the Society's publications.
By the urgent request of Archbishop Ireland, supported by officers of the
Society, Professor Shea prepared and published his translation above referred
to.
*AssIniboins.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 321
on the west and northwest inhabit immense plains and prairies abound-
ing in buffalo and peltries, where they are sometimes obliged to make
fires with buffalo dung, for want of wood
Another time we found an otter on the bank of the river Colbert,
eating a large fish which had, running from the head, a kind of paddle
or beak, five fingers broad and a foot and a half long, which made our
Picard say that he thought he saw a devil in the paws of that otter:
but his fright did not prevent our eating this monstrous fish, which we
found very good.
This account of the voyage of discovery by Father Henne-
pin was accompanied by a map upon which was located the
Lake of the Assenipoils, evidently intended to represent Lake
Winnipeg, but its location was too far north, although in the
proper direction from the Indian home of Hennepin.
SPANISH AUTHORITIES.
DISCOVERY OF C1BOLA BY FATHER DE NIC A (1539).
The following extracts are taken from Hakluyt's "Voyages
of the English Nation to America," edited by Edmund Golds-
mid, 1890, volume 3, pages 67-83.
The same day came three Indians of those which I called Pintados,
because I saw their faces, breasts and arms painted. These dwell far-
ther up into the country towards the east, and several of them
border upon the Seven Cities, which said they came to see me be-
cause they had heard of me; and among other things they gave me
information of the Seven Cities, and other provinces, which the Indian
that Stephen sent me had told me of They said that they
went for Turqueses and Hides of kine, and other things; and that of
all these there was great abundance in this country. Likewise I en-
quired how and by what means they obtained these things. They told
me, by their service, and by the sweat of their brows, and that they
went into the first city of the Province which is called Cevola, and that
they served them in tilling their ground and in other business, and that
they give them hides of oxen, which they have in those places, and
turqueses for their service, and that the people of this city wear very
fine and excellent turqueses hanging at their ears and at their nostrils.
They say also that of these turqueses they make fine works upon the
principal gates of the houses of this city
Amongst others the Lord of this Village came unto me, and two
of his brethren, very well apparelled in cotton, .... and they
presented unto me many wild beasts, as conies, quails, maize, nuts of
pine trees, and all in great abundance, and offered me many turqueses
and dressed ox hides, and very fair vessels to drink in, and other things,
whereof I would receive no whit
322 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
At the last when they saw me resolute, two of the chief of them
said they would go with me; with whom and with my Indians and in-
terpreters I followed my way, till I came within sight of Cevola, which
is situated on a plain at the foot of a round hill, and maketh shew to
be a fair city, and is better seated than any that I have seen in these
parts. The houses are builded in order, according as the Indians told
me, all made of stone, with divers stories and flat roofs, as far as I
could discern from a mountain which I ascended to view the city. The
people are somewhat white; they wear apparel, and lie in beds; their
weapons are bows; they have emeralds and other jewels, although
they esteem none so much as turqueses Their apparel is of
cotton and of ox hides, and this is their most commendable and honor-
able apparel. They use vessels of gold and silver, for they have no
other metal.
EXPLORATION OF CIBOLA AND QUIVIRA BY CORONADO (1540).
The relation of Francis Vasquez de Coronado, Captain
General of the people which were sent in the name of the
Emperor's Majesty to the country of Cibola, newly discovered,
is found in Hakluyt's Voyages, volume 3, pages 117-132. Cor-
onado departed with his army from Culiacan on the 22nd of
April, 1540. He describes the situation and state of the Seven
Cities, called the Kingdom of Cibola, and of the customs and
qualities of their people, and the beasts which are found there.
It remaineth now to certify your honor of the Seven Cities, and
the kingdoms and provinces whereof the Father Provincial made repoi
unto your Lordship. And to be brief, I can assure your honor, he say<;
the truth in nothing that he reported, but all was quite contrary, sav-
ing only the names of the cities, and great houses of stone: for al
though they be not wrought with turqueses, nor with lime nor bricl
yet are they very excellent good houses of three or four or five loft
high, wherein are good lodgings and fair chambers with ladders in-
stead of stairs, and certain cellars under the ground, very good am
paved, which are made for winter, they are in manner like stoves: anc
the ladders which they have for their houses are all in a manner mov-
able and portable, which are taken away and set down when the}
please, and they are made of two pieces of wood with their steps as
ours be They wear their hair on their heads like those of
Mexico, and they are well nurtured and conditioned; and they have
turqueses I think in good quantity, which, with the rest of the
which they had, except their corn, they had conveyed away before
I came thither In this country there are certain skins well
dressed, and they dress them and paint them where they kill their oxen,
for so they say themselves.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 328
Coronado sent to the Viceroy of Mexico, as presents from
Cibola, an ox hide (buffalo robe), turquoises, two turquoise ear-
rings and fifteen combs made by the Indians, tablets set with
turquoises, etc. He also mentions that in this place was found
"some quantity of gold and silver .... very good."
Francis Lopez de Gomara gives the account of Coronado's
continuation of this expedition to Quivira (in the same volume,
pages 133-5), from which I take the following:
They had news of Axa and Quivira, where they said was a king
whose name was Tartatrax, with a long beard, hoary headed, and rich,
which was girded with a Bracamart, which prayed upon a pair of beads,
which worshipped a cross of gold and the image of a woman, the Queen
of Heaven
Quivira is in forty degrees [of north latitude]: it is a temperate
country, and hath very good waters, and much grass, plums, mulberries,
nuts, melons and grapes, which ripen very well. There is no cotton;
and they apparel themselves with ox hides and deer skins.
Gomara gives this description of buffaloes, with brief men-
tion of other animals of the great plains and the country far-
ther west and north :
These oxen are of the bigness and color of our bulls, but their horns
are not so great. They have a great bunch upon their fore shoulders,
and more hair on their fore part than on their hinder parts; and it is
like wool. They have as it were a horse's mane upon their backbone,
and much hair and very long from their knees downward. They have
great tufts of hair hanging down their foreheads, and it seemeth that
they have beards, because of the great store of hair hanging down at
their chins and throats. The males have very long tails, and a great
knob or flock at the end; so that in some respects they resemble the lion
and in some others the camel. They push with their horns, they run,
they overtake and kill a horse when they are in their rage and anger.
Finally, it is a foul and fierce beast of countenance and form of body.
The horses fled from them, either because of their deformed shape* or
else because they had never seen them. Their masters have no other
riches nor substance: of them they eat, they drink, they apparel, they
shoe themselves: and of their hides they make many things, as houses,
shoes, apparel and ropes: of their bones they make bodkins: of their
sinews and hairs, thread: of their horns, maws, and bladders, vessels:
of their dung, fire: and of their calves' skins, budgets, in which they
draw and keep water. To be short, they make so many things of them
as they have need of, or as many as suffice them in the use of this life.
There are also in this country other beasts as big as horses, which,
because they have horns and fine wool, they call them sheep; and they
say that every horn of theirs weighs fifty pounds weight.
324 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
There are also great dogs which will fight with a bull, and will
carry fifty pounds weight in sacks when they go a hunting, or when
they remove from place to place with their flocks and herds.
EXPEDITION OF PE&ALOSA.
In 1882 Prof. J. Gilmary Shea (to whom English students
have become greatly indebted) published a translation of the
Expedition of Don Diego Dionisio de Pefialosa, Governor of
New Mexico, from Sante Fe to the River Mischipi and Quivira
in 1662, as described by Father Nicolas de Freytas, O. S. F.,
and also an account of a previous expedition by the Maestre de
Campo Vincent de Saldivar in 1618, portions of which may
well be added here.
Pefialosa led his expedition eastward and rediscovered
Quivira. In his company were eighty Spaniards, whose captain
was Michael de Noriega, "and a thousand Indians on foot with
bows and arrows, all very well armed, both men and horses,
and with all the other equipments of peace and war, . .
with thirty-six carts of various sizes well provided with pro-
visions and munitions, and a large coach, a litter and two
portable chairs for his person, and six three-pounders, eight
hundred horses, and three hundred mules." Freytas, his his-
torian, continues as follows :
We took our course eastward till we marched two hundred leagues,
all through pleasing, peaceful, and most fertile fields, and so level that
in all of them no mountain, or range, or any hill was seen, which finally
ended at a very high and insuperable ridge which is near the sea,
eight leagues beyond the great city of Quivira, called Taracari; and so
agreeable and fertile are they that in all the Indies of Peru and New
Spain, nor in Europe, have any other such been seen, so pleasant and
delightful, and covered with buffalo or cows of cibola which caused
notable admiration. The further we entered the country the greater
was the number, with many and very beautiful rivers, marshes, and.
springs; studded with luxuriant forest and fruit trees of various kinds,
which produce most palatable plums, large and fine grapes in great
clusters and of extremely good flavor, like those of Spain, and even
better, .... abundance of roses, strawberries without end, small
but savory, many Castilian partridges, quails, turkeys, sandpipers,
pheasants, deer, stags or elk in very great number, and even one kind
of them as large and developed as our horses.
Through these pleasant and most fertile fields we marched during
the months of March, April, May, and the kalends of June, and arrived
at a large river which they call Mischipi, where we saw the first In-
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 325
dians of the Escanxaques nation, who might be to the number of 3,000,
most warlike, well armed and equipped in their manner, who were go-
ing to attack the first city of the Quiviras, who are their enemies, and
are destroying themselves by continual wars.
After entering into peace with us these Escanxaques gave notice
of Quivira and its peoples, and they marched with us that day up by
the borders of that beautiful river, which is rapid, and forms in parts
very delightful and beautiful prairies, so fertile that in some they
gather the fruit twice a year, and great forests in parts at distances of
two, four, six, and ten leagues, and strange trees not seen until this
place.
From this point we turned our route northward, following the river
which drew its current from thence, leaving the east on our right, and
that day the army halted in the prairies by the river, and the Escan-
xaques Indians lodged somewhat apart; and it is worth noting what
they did that evening, which was their going out to the number of six
hundred to hunt cibolas, which they found very near, and in less than
three hours they returned, each bringing one, two, and some three
cows' tongues from the incredible slaughter which they made of them.
The next day the army marched, and after going four leagues we
discovered the great range already mentioned which ran from east
to north, covered with smokes, by which they gave notice of the ar-
rival of the Christian army, and soon after we discovered the great
settlement or city of Quivira, situated on the widespread prairies of
another beautiful river which came from the range to enter and unite
with that which we had hitherto followed.
Before crossing the great river which served us as a guide, and in
sight of the city, the army halted in the prairie thereof, Don Diego hav-
ing previously ordered the Escanxaques to retire and not enter the city
till his Lordship commanded otherwise. This they did, though against
their will, because they wished that both they and the Senor Adelantado
with his soldiers should at once assault the city with fire and blood,
and destroy it.
So numerous were the people who appeared before the great settle-
ment, men, women, and children, that it excited wonder, and then
seventy head chiefs came very well attired in their style with neat
chamois and buckskin, and caps or bonnets of ermine, and they wel-
comed the Senor Adelantado with the greatest marks of love and re-
spect that they could,.
His Illustrious Lordship received them with pleasure and ordered
them to be entertained, and he gave them some presents with his ac-
customed liberality, endeavoring to quiet their minds, which were dis-
turbed by the alarm which they had felt on seeing him and the
Escanxaques, their avowed enemies, as well as to gain their good will
for the furtherance of his expedition, and giving them to understand
the friendly intercourse that he would maintain with them, and from
the outset impressing this on them not only by words but also by most
devoted affection and example .... and afterwards his Lord-
326 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
ship received a present of a great quantity of ermine, buckskin, chamois,
marten, otter, beaver, and sable-skins, and a quantity of Indian corn in
grain and bread, beans and pumpkins, sandpipers, turkeys, partridges,
and rabbits, and much fresh fish which the Indians brought, giving
him to understand that he should receive that as a mark of their good
will till next day, when he might enter their city, which was on the
other bank of the rapid river, and that they would serve him with much
love and all possible hospitality.
With this they returned to their houses with very courteous supplies
for the governors and chiefs of the city The Senor Adel-
antado detained two of those chiefs that evening and night with fair
words and better deeds; they were examined and questioned as to
their land and the qualities of it and of its tribes
The account of these casiques and the questions of Don Diego and
the Father chaplains lasted till midnight, at which hour they were
sent to sleep; but they, seeing themselves alone and among such strange
and foreign folk, and that their enemies, the Escanxaques, were so
near, fled and crossed the river to their city, which at sunrise was de-
populated and without inhabitants, because their enemies, the Escanxa-
ques, without being observed by our men, slipped off and attacked the
city, killing, burning, and destroying all they could; on which surprise
his Lordship ordered the army to cross the river, and it was forded
with difficulty, as it was still night, and he encamped at the entrance
of the town, which is situated on the delightful banks of another river,
which runs through the midst of it, and the houses and streets are on
both banks. The shape of the buildings for the most part is round,
two, three, and four stories, covered with straw with wonderful skill,
and the framework of Coleo, Curcura, or Otate, which are all three
names of a solid cane, strong and full of knots, of which walking-
sticks are usually made, which does not grow in warm climates; and,
as we observed in what we saw, they plant twice a year, as some
fields were ready to harvest and others were planting. We could find
no Indian to act as interpreter, as all had fled, fearing the great fury
of their enemies the Escanxaques, whom they supposed to be favored
by and in alliance with our men, and to arrest the conflagration of the
city it was necessary for the army to march in two bodies and that
the one with the Maese de Campo should spend most of the day in keep-
ing back the Escanxaques.
The next morning the army marched through the town some two
leagues, and, having counted some thousands of houses, halted on the
bank of another river, which also entered it; and it was remarked that
every quarter of a league, a little more or less, highways entered the
city of sixteen paths and some of more, well beaten and even, which
came down from the lofty range, which was some six leagues distant
from the buildings.
From this point the Senor Ad^lantado sent a squad of twenty-five
soldiers with Sergeant Major Francis de Madrid to go and explore all
the town, without their being able to reach the end of the streets, and
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 327
when furthest on they discerned more of the town, and more smokes
on the ridge, which ran along the right side of the city towards the
north.
Before arriving at this town we passed many very large rivers,
.... and most of these rivers very deep to run asequias for irri-
gation, and the soil black, strong, fertile, and covered with grass; and
in conclusion all the plain from the city of Quivira to the ridge, which
must be six or seven leagues, seemed a paradise; and Senor Don Diego,
seeing that it was useless to follow men who fled, and . . . as he
had no orders to make new discoveries, from that part turned back to
these provinces on the llth of June
There were on this expedition men of various nations in Europe,
Asia, Africa, and America, and all unanimously declared that they had
never seen so fertile, pleasant, and agreeable a country as that. . . .
Prof. Shea closes his preface, accompanying this transla-
tion, with the, following remark:
This narrative will help to a better understanding of the early
Spanish intercourse with Quivira, and, I think, shows that province
to have been north of the Missouri River.
EXPEDITION OF SADDIVAR.
In the year 1618 Maestre de Campo Vincent de Saldivar
had made a journey of discovery with forty-seven well ap-
pointed soldiers, accompanied by the Father Friar Lazarus
Ximenez. This expedition, as narrated also by Freytas, passed
through several populous nations to the end of the Moq and
journeyed through uninhabited countries fifteen days, and ar-
rived at the Rio de Buena Esperanza (Good Hope river) or
Tison river, where they found themselves in north latitude
36° 30'; and, going up this river for two days toward the
north with a very good guide who offered to conduct them,
they arrived at a little village, and, asking information of the
country and the interior, they were told such great things of
it as those in the west on the coast of the South Sea and
California had told them, that in the country beyond they
would find "some terrible nations of giants, so huge and extra-
ordinary that one of our men on horseback was small compared
to them, and that they fired very large arrows." .It appeared
to Saldivar that he could not raise sufficient force to encounter
such a multitude, so he determined to return, fearing some
misfortune such as was experienced by Captain Humafia and
others; and although Father Lazarus and the greater part of
the soldiers opposed this determination, they could not prevail.
328 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
Although twenty-five of them begged permission to go, the
Maestre de Campo was not willing to permit it, fearing they
would all be lost, and commanded that they should go no
farther, but turn back.
DISCUSSION OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RlVER.
Did Groseilliers and Radisson discover the Mississippi
river?
This voyage is the first by eighteen years that is recorded,
and consequently it cannot be corroborated by any con-
temporaneous authority; hence we must rely upon what the
succeeding authorities say to corroborate this record.
For the purpose of doing this, I have cited the "Relations
of the Jesuits," Parkman's series of histories as quoted above,
Marquette, Hennepin, and the Spanish authorities, which are
all before the reader.
At the time of the commencement of this voyage the mis-
sionaries had been massacred, and the Hurons and Ottawas
had been driven to the "end of the world," and a condition of
starvation confronted the people of Canada. Groseilliers had
without doubt been engaged in the contraband trade with the
Hurons and Ottawas at the time of their dispersion, and was
acquainted with the Indians that had come with the canoes
loaded with furs, as the Father Superior has advised us. The
starving condition of the country compelled him to follow the
Indians. He was quite at home with them, and on more con-
fidential terms with them than with the Governor or the
Jesuits. The return of Radisson from captivity with the Iro-
quois was a very opportune event, and hence the proposition
to him to join in this enterprise to know the people of the west
and south.
The arrival of the fleet of canoes and the resolution of the
Governor and the Father Superior to send the priests and
thirty Frenchmen, was the very opportunity they would nat-
urally desire. They joined the Indians, but were not with or
rather of the French party.
The Indians were natives of the River Ottawa and Lake
Huron, and had fled to the islands of Michilimackinac and
Green Bay, as stated in "The Jesuits in North America." The
incidents of this voyage have been recited. They fought the
Iroquois at Mackinac, made a treaty with the nations living
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 329
on the shores of the bay, the Pottawattamies and Menomonees,
and the Hurons and Ottawas, became acquainted with the Fire
Nation, and learned from their neighbors of the great and war-
like nations, the Nadoneceronons and the Christinos.
All the Indians who have been mentioned are found located
in the exact places given in the narrative, on the map of "Coun-
tries traversed by Marquette, Hennepin and La Salle," which
Parkman has given in "La Salle and the Discovery of the Great
West"
"The Relations of the Jesuits," "Pioneers in the New
World," and "The Old Regime in Canada," are relied upon to
confirm all that Radisson has said of this voyage to the spring
of 1655, when they started down the Mississippi with the
Hurons, Ottawas, and Fire Nation. The great beauty of the
country is still self-evident to the people who live in it.
The fish, cattle, stags, birds and productions described by
Radisson, Marquette, and Hennepin, are not found anywhere
else in America; and the authorities cited from the Spanish
expeditions most triumphantly corroborate what has been
said by Radisson and Marquette as to the climate, productions,
and people of the southern part of the river and country.
It is not necessary to repeat the language of each, for the
reader can and will compare the different accounts for him-
self. The only part that is especially entitled to review is
what is said of the visit of Radisson up the Great River. After
turning back from the salt water he speaks of many sorts of
people, and says:
By the persuasion of some of them we went into the great river
that divides itself in two, where the Hurons with some of the Ottawas
and the wild men that had wars with them had retired
This nation have wars against those of the forked river. It is so called
because it has two branches, the one towards the west, the other to-
wards the south, which we believe runs towards Mexico, by the tokens
they gave us.
It is not presumption to say that the Great River was the
Missouri, and that the fork or branch which runs towards
Mexico was the Platte. Radisson also says:
Being among these people, they told us the prisoners they take tell
them that they have wars against a nation, against men that build
great cabins, and have great beards, and have such knives as we have.
.... They showed us one of that nation that was taken the year
before. We understood him not; he was much more tawny than they
330 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
with whom we were We were informed of that nation that
live in the other river. These were men of extraordinary height and
bigness, that made us believe they had no communication with them.
. . . . They have fruit as big as the heart of an oriniak [elk],
which grows on vast trees which are three armsful in compass. . . .
They have a kind of drink that makes them mad for a whole day.
The great cabins were the houses of four and five stories
described by Father de Nica and by Coronado in his report to
the Viceroy of Mexico, and were of the kind delineated by our
late fellow citizen, Gen. J. H. Simpson, in his report of his
expedition to the Navajo country (in the edition published by
Lippincott, Grambo and Co., in 1852). The fruit was the nuts
of pine trees, mentioned by Father de Mca, which grow in
great abundance in the mountains of Mexico and California,
growing upon trees that are from forty to one hundred and
fifty feet high and of great dimension. The nuts are in the
cones of the trees, which are from two to five inches long.
Many thousand pounds of these nuts are sold to Mexicans to-
day. The tawny prisoner was an African slave taken from the
Spaniards with big beards and knives (swords). They found
arrows and dishes of good workmanship which excited the ad-
miration of the voyagers, and learned of a drink that made
them mad a whole day, which was an alcoholic distillation of
pulque, a produce of the maguey plant. It is still a favorite
beverage of Mexicans and Indians alike, after two hundred and
fifty years' use, and is called mescal or aguardiente. The fable
of the men of extraordinary height and bigness will be ac-
counted for by turning back to the expedition of Saldivar.
Finally, there are millions of men living in the valley of
the Mississippi who can confirm what is said regarding its
climate and natural productions ; and thousands of old settlers
are still living who have seen the painted ox hides, buffs, stags,
goats, turkeys, and other game mentioned, while the fishermen
of Lake Pepin still occasionally catch a shovel-nosed sturgeon.
It seems to me that the evidence of the discovery of the
Mississippi by Groseilliers and Radisson is quite sufficient to
satisfy the most skeptical.
CONTINUATION OF RADISSON'S THIRD VOYAGE.
On page 1 54 is given an account of a war between the Sault
(Ojibways) and Christines, resulting in peace and confederacy
between them, in order to be able to defend themselves from
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 331
the Iroquois on the one hand and the Sioux on the other. The
narrative continues as follows:
We arrived then where the nation of the Sault was, where we found
some Frenchmen that came up with us, who thanked us kindly for to
come and visit them. The wild Octanaks (Ottawas) that came with us
found some of their nation slaves, who were also glad to see them.
For all they were slaves, they had meat enough, which they had not
in their own country so plentiful, being no huntsmen, but altogether
fishers. As for those towards the north, they are most expert in hunt-
ing, and live upon nothing else the most part of the year. We were
long there before we got acquainted with those that we desired so
much, and they in like manner had a fervent desire to know us, as we
them. Here comes a company of Christinos from the Bay of the .North
Sea, to live more at ease in the middle of woods and forests, by reason
they might trade with those of the SSault and have the conveniency to
kill more beasts.
There we passed the winter and learned the particularities that
since we saw by experience The Christinos had skill in
that game above the rest
We did what we could to have correspondence with that warlike
nation and reconcile them with the Christinos. We went not there that
winter. Many were slain of both sides the summer last. The wounds
were yet fresh, wherefore it was hard to conclude peace between them.
. . . . At last we declared our mind first to those of the Sault,
encouraging those of the north that we are their brethren, and that we
would come back and force their enemy to peace, or that we would
help against them. We made gifts one to another, and thwarted a land
of almost fifty leagues before the snow was melted
We arrived, some one hundred and fifty of us, men and women, to
a river side where we stayed three weeks making boats. Here we
wanted not fish. During that time we made feasts at a high rate. So
we refreshed ourselves from our labors. In that time we took notice
that the buds of trees began to spring, which made us make more haste
and be gone. We went up that river eight days till we came to a na-
tion called Pontonatenick and Matonenock,— that is, the Scratchers.
There we got some Indian meal and corn from those two nations, which
lasted us till we came to the first landing isle.
The Christinos are now in readiness to leave for their home
in their boats that it has taken one hundred and fifty men
and women three weeks to build. Who are they, and where
is their home, and where is the "first landing isle?" First in
order, that there shall not be any confusion about the name
of this tribe of Indians, I here insert a paragraph from an ex-
tract from Alexander Henry's "Travels and Adventures in
Canada," which will be found further on :
v
332 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
,On the sixteenth [of August], we reached Lake Winipegon, at the
entrance of which is a large village of Christinaux, a nation which
I had not previously seen. The name is variously written: as Cris-
tinaux, Kinistineaux, Killistinoes, and Killistinaux.
Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in his "General History of the
Fur Trade," on pages xci.-cxvi, gives an extended account of
the Knisteneaux Indians. It is quite too long for insertion
here, but I make a quotation of that part relating to the
country they occupy.
These people are spread over a vast extent of country. Their lan-
guage is the same as that of the people who inhabit the coast of British
America on the Atlantic, with the exception of the Esquimaux, and
continues along the coast of Labrador and the gulf and banks of St.
Lawrence to Montreal. The line then follows the Ottawa river to its
source; and continues from there nearly west along the high lands
which divide the waters that fall into Lake Superior and Hudson's
Bay. It then proceeds until it strikes the middle part of the river Wini-
pic, following that water through the Lake Winipic, to the discharge
of the Saskatchiwine into it; from thence it accompanies the latter to
Fort George, when the line, striking by the head of the Beaver river
to the Elk river, runs along its banks to its discharge in the Lake of
the Hills; from which it may be carried back east to the Isle a la
Crosse, and so on to Churchill by the Missinipi. The whole of the tract
between this line and Hudson's Bay and Straits (except that of the
Esquimaux in the latter), may be said to be exclusively the country of
the Knisteneaux.
On page liii, which is a part of the description of the canoe
route from Grand Portage to lake Winnipeg, we find this addi-
tional information.
The portage of Lac Bois Blanc .... is one hundred and
eighty paces. Then follows the lake of that name, but I think im-
properly so called, as the natives name it the Lake Pascau Minac
Sagaigan, or Dry Berries. Before the smallpox ravaged this country
and completed what the Nodowasis, in their warfare, had gone far to
accomplish, the destruction of its inhabitants, the population was very
numerous. This was also a favorite part, where they made their
canoes, etc., the lake abounding in fish, the country round it being
plentifully supplied with various kinds of game, and the rocky ridges,
that form the boundary of the water, covered with a variety of berries.
When the French were in possession of this country, they had sev-
eral trading establishments on the islands and banks of this lake.
Since that period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin
nation, could hardly find subsistence; game having become so scarce
that they depended principally for food upon fish, and wild rice which
grows spontaneously in these parts.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 333
I cannot omit an extract from chap. IX., pp. 137-140, of W.
W. Warren's "History of the Ojibways" (volume 5 of the pub-
lications of the Minnesota Historical Society). Mr. Warren's
History was written during the years 1851 to 1853.
A few years after the great convocation of northwestern tribes
[1671], and treaty with the French nation at Sault Ste. Marie, a com-
pany of French traders proceeded up the west coast of Lake Superior,
and built a trading post or "fort" (as these establishments were termed
in those days), on a beautiful bay situated on the lake shore a few miles
above .... Pigeon river, and known as "Grand Portage,"
. . . . from the fact that a portage of ten miles is here made to
Pigeon river, to avoid the rapids which preclude navigation even for
canoes, for many miles above the entry of this "bad winding stream."
This is probably the first permanent post erected by the white man
in the region of country comprised within the present limits of Minne-
sota Territory. It was built, as near as I can judge from the informa-
tion of the Indians and old traders, upwards of one hundred and fifty
years ago.
The great quantity of beaver existing at this period on all the
streams emptying into Lake Superior, and especially throughout the
country watered by Kah-man-a-tig-wa-yah and its tributaries, together
with the great docility, harmless character and friendly disposition of
the section of the Ojibways occupying this district, who comprise the
northern division of the tribe, were, without doubt, the leading causes
which induced the French here to build their first "fort" in preference
to any other spot on Lake Superior.
From this point, also, a vast region of unexplored country became
open to their indefatigable enterprise, in a northern direction. It is
by this route that they first became acquainted with the remote north-
ern tribes of the Ke-nis-te-no and Assineboins, with whom they soon
opened a communication.
Long before this, the Ojibways of the northern division had already
reached, in their northern progress, the country of the Ke-nis-te-no and
Assineboins, the former of whom belonged to the same stock as them-
selves, and though the latter were of Dakota extraction, yet finding
the two tribes in close alliance and carrying on a war against the Da-
kotas, they entered their wigwams in peace, and joined in alliance with
them.
I recollect of having read in some book that the Assineboins had
been forced into an alliance by the Ke-nis-te-no who first received fire-
arms from the British by the route of Hudson's Bay. This led me to
make close inquiries on this subject, and I find that Indian tradition
says differently. Esh-ke-bug-e-coshe, the present aged and respected
chief of the Pillager Ojibways, lived many years in his youth among
these tribes; and he gives the following account of the manner in
which this singular alliance, between an Algic and a Dakota tribe,
first happened.
334 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
"Many winters before they became aware of the presence of the
white man on this great island, the Yankton division of the great Da-
kota tribe resided on the borders of the great western prairies near the
Red River of the North. They numbered many hundred lodges, and
their warriors prevailed against the Ke-nis-te-no toward the north and
west, and caused them to keep under the shade of the forests and
swamps which covered their hunting grounds. At one time it hap-
pened, as it often does, that two young men quarrelled about a womanf
and one in the heat of passion and jealousy took the life of the other.
Both belonged to numerous and important families, and in accordance
with the law of 'blood for blood,' notwithstanding his relatives wished
to buy him off, the murderer was killed The great Yank-
ton camp became a scene of excitement, and murders occurred daily,
till the weaker party, consisting of a thousand lodges, left the main
camp and retired by themselves, to pursue their hunt for meat to feed
their women and children.
"[This strife was continued until] the smaller camp,~to prevent
their total eventual extinction .... moved towards the country
of the Ke-nis-te-no, with whom they had always waged a never-ending
warfare; and preferring to trust themselves to their generosity rather
than to the vindictive hatred of their own kindred, they collected the
women and children whom in former years they had captured from
them and adopted in their families. These they placed on horses, and,
loaded with presents, they were sent to the great Ke-nis-te-no town
. . . . with the peace pipe of the seceding Dakotas, requesting to
be received 'in their lodges' and protected from the 'tire that raged in
their rear, on the western prairies.'
"The manly and compassionate Ke-nis-te-no sent forty of their
warriors to receive them into their country, and escort them into their
village. A grand council was held, .... and they were ac-
cepted as allies and brothers Their united prowess eventu-
ally drove the Dakotas from the northern plains Shortly
after this first alliance, the Ojibway made his appearance among themf
and he too became a party to the mutual compact which has been kept
unbroken to this day."
In Prof. Shea's "Life of Marquette," is found another refer-
ence to the Christinos and their home (Historical Collections-
of Louisiana, Part 4, page Ivii):
The Kilistinaux are a nomad people, whose rendezvous we do not
yet know. It is northwest of the Mission of the Holy Ghost; they
are always in the woods, and live solely by their bow. They passed
by the mission where I was last fall in two hundred canoes, coming
to buy merchandise and corn, after which they go to winter in the
woods; in the spring I saw them again on the shore of the lake.
This quotation is taken from the "Relations of the Jesuits/'
1669-70, Ottawa part. This mission was located at La Pointe,
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 335
near Bajfield and Ashland, Wis., and of course on the south
side of Lake Superior; and we think that the one hundred
and fifty Christinos crossed the lake to their home by way of
the Grand Portage or Pigeori river to lake Sagaigan and Lac
Bois Blanc, which Mackenzie described in its palmy days
while in possession of the French. It is a reasonable presump-
tion that on the islands of the Sagaigan (now called lake
Saganaga) was the "first landing isle," after the trying and
arduous voyage across the lake; and it would be in their own
country. All the country to the south of what became the
canoe route of the traders belonged to the Sioux, their deadly
enemies.
We now resume Radisson's narrative of the voyage:
There we were well received again. We made gifts to the elders to
encourage the young men to bring us down to the French; but mightily
mistaken, for they would reply, "Should you bring us to be killed?
The Iroquois are everywhere about the river and undoubtedly will de-
stroy us if we go down, and afterwards our wives and those that stayed
behind. Be wise, brethren, and offer not to go down this year to the
French. Let us keep our lives." We make many private suits, but all
in vain. They vexed us most that we had given away most of our
merchandise and swapped a great deal for castors Moreover, they
made no great harvest, being but newly there. Besides, they were no
great huntsmen. Our journey was broken till the next year, and must
perforce.
That summer I went a hunting, and my brother stayed where he
was welcome and put up a great deal of Indian corn that was given
him. He intended to furnish the wild men that were to go down to
the French, if they had not enough. The wild men did not perceive
this; for if they wanted any, we could hardly keep it for our use. The
winter passed away in good correspondence one with another. We sent
ambassadors to the nations that used to go down to the French, which
rejoiced them the more and made us pass that year with a greater
pleasure, saving that my brother fell into the falling sickness, and
many were sorry for it. That proceeded only from long stay in a new
discovered country, and the idleness contributed much to it. There is
nothing comparable to exercise. It is the only remedy for such dis-
eases. After he languished awhile God gave him his health again.
The desire that everyone had to go down to the French made them
earnestly look out for castors. They have not so many there as in the
north part, so in the beginning of spring many came to our isle. There
were no less, I believe, than five hundred men that were willing to
venture themselves. The corn that my brother kept did us a world of
service When we were ready to depart, here comes strange
Dews of the defeat of the Hurons, which I thought would put off the
in— 3
336 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
voyage. There was a council held, and most of them were against the
going down to the French, saying that the Iroquois were to bar this
year, and the best way was to stay till the following year. And now
the enemy, seeing himself frustrated of his expectation, would not
stay longer, thinking that we were resolved never more to go down, and
that the next year there would be a bigger company and better able to
oppose an enemy. My brother and I, seeing ourselves all out of hopes
of our voyage, without our corn, which was already bestowed, and
without any merchandise, or scarce having one knife betwixt us both,
so we were in a great apprehension lest the Hurons should, as they
have done often when the Fathers were in the country, kill a French-
man.
Seeing the equipage ready and many more that thought long to
depart thence for merchandise, we upon this resolved to call a public
council in the place; which the elders hearing, came and advised us
not to undertake it, giving many fair words, saying: "Brethren, why
are you such enemies of yourselves to put yourselves in the hands of
those that wait for you? They will destroy you and carry you away
captives. Will you have your brethren destroyed that love you, being
slain? Who then will come up and baptize our children? Stay till the
next year, and then you are like to have the number of six hundred
men with you. Then you may freely go without intermission. Ye
shall take the Church along with you, and the fathers and mothers
will send their children to be taught in the way of truth of the Lord."
Our answer was that we will speak in public, which granted, the day
appointed is come. There gather above eight hundred men to see who
should have the glory in a round. They sat down on the ground. We
desired silence. The elders being in the middle, and we in their mid-
dle, my brother began to speak. "Who am I? am I a foe, or a friend?
If I am a foe, why did you suffer me to live so long among you? If
I am a friend, and if you take so to be, hearken to what 1 shall say.
You know, my uncles and brethren, that I hazarded my life going up
with you. If I have no courage, why did you not tell me at my first
coming here? It' you bare more wit than we, why did you not use it
by preserving your knives, your hatchets, and your guns, that you had
from the French? You will see, if the enemy will set upon you, that
you will be trapped like castors in a trap. How will you defend your-
selves like men? That is not courageous to let yourselves be caught
like beasts. How will you defend your villages? with castor skins V
How will you defend your wives and children from the enemy's hands?"
Then my brother made me stand up, saying, "Show them the way
to make wars if they are able to uphold it." I took a gown of castor
skins that one of them had upon his shoulder and did beat him with
it. I asked the others if I was a soldier. "Those are the arms that
kill, and not your robes Do not you know the French way?
We are used to fight with arms and not with robes. You say that the
Iroquois wait for you, because some of your men were killed. It is
only to make you stay until you are quite out of stock, that they dis-
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 337
patch you with ease. Do you think that the French will coine up here
when the greater part of you are slain, by your own fault? You know
they cannot come up without you. Shall they come to baptize your
dead? Shall your children learn to be slaves among the Iroquois for
their fathers' cowardness? You call me an Iroquois. Have not you
seen me disposing my life with you? Who has given you your life, if
not the French? .... If you will deceive them, you must not
think they will come another time for shy words nor desire. You have
spoken first, do what you will. For my own part, I will venture choos-
ing to die like a man rather than live like a beggar. Having not where-
withal to defend myself, farewell; I have my sack of corn ready. Take
all my castors. I sihall live without you." And then 1 departed that
company.
This very remarkable speech entirely changed the purpose
of the Indians, and they resolved to go. Their wives got their
bundles ready.
Our equipage was ready in six days. We embarked ourselves. We
were in number about five hundred, all stout men. We had with us a
great store of castors' skins. We came to the south. We now go to
the north, to overtake a band of men that went before to give notice
to others. We passed the lake without danger. We wanted nothing,
having good store of corn and nets to catch fish, which are plentiful
in the rivers At last we are out of the lakes.
Each one leaves and hides something till their return, and
to lighten the labor down the Ottawa. There are nearly six
pages of description of their voyage down the Ottawa and
accounts of fights with Iroquois. After the Iroquois left them
they turned to come to their journey's end, and went down the
swift stream without making any carriage. The canoe in
which Radisson's brother was, with several of the wild men,
turned over in the rapids, and they were in great peril. The
brother (Groseilliers) lost his book of notations of the last
year, but none of the beaver skins.
The Iroquois got a great way before us, not well satisfied to have
stayed for us, having lost seven of their men; two of them were not
nimble enough, for our bullets and arrows made them stay for good and
all. Seven of our men were sick, who had barely escaped from being
drowned, and two were wounded by the Iroquois.
The next day we went on without any delay or encounter
We came to Quebec, where we are saluted with the thundering of the
guns and batteries of the fort, and of the three ships that were then
at anchor, which would have gone back to France without castors if
we had not come. We were well treated for five days. The Governot
338 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
made gifts and sent two brigantines to bring us to the Three Riyers,
where we arrived the second day. On the fourth day they went away.
That was the end of our three years' voyage and a few months.
After so much pain and danger God was so merciful as to bring as back
safe to our dwelling, where the one was made much of by his wife,
the other by his friends and kindred
They went away the next day, and we stayed at home at rest that
year. My brother and I considered whether we should discover what
we had seen or no; and because we had not a full and whole discovery,
which was that we have not been in the Bay of the North, not knowing
anything but by the report of the wild Christinos, we would make no
mention ol it for fear that those wild men should tell us a fib. We
would have made a discovery of it ourselves and have an assurance,
before we should discover anything of it.
My wish to make this paper as .short as is practicable, with
making it intelligible, prevents my repeating the text of the
story or quotations. The extracts made from Alexander
Henry's Travels and from Radisson give these Indians the
name Christinos. Warren calls them Kenistenos; and Sir
Alexander Mackenzie, Knisteneaux. All refer to the same
tribe and place them at the same home, north of lake Su-
perior; and, of course, the only way to get there was by
crossing the lake to Grand Portage and by way of the Groseil-
liers river, mentioned by Henry in his description of the canoe
route of the fur trade in 17Y5. Franquelin's map of lake
Superior in 1688 has located this river as entering the lake
near the point now called Grand Portage. (For a copy of this
map see page 230, vol. 4, of the "Narrative and Critical History
of America.") The extracts from Henry's Travels and Mac-
kenzie's "General History of the Fur Trade" will make this
whole country familiar to the reader and will locate the home
of the Christinos and Sioux without mistake. Mackenzie's
description of Lac Bois Blanc and Lake Pascau Minac Sagai-
gan, or Dry Berries, indicates an Indian paradise which would
be the location of the "first landing isle."
The assumption that the Indians and Frenchmen crossed
lake Superior in their canoes may be a little too much for
the credulity of some persons. For the purpose of removing all
misapprehension on that point, I insert a paragraph from the
history of the "Birch Bark Canoe" to be found further on, taken
from a pamphlet called "Peace River, a Canoe Voyage from
Hudson's Bay to the Pacific, by the late Sir George Simpson
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI EIVER. 339
(Governor, Hon. Hudson's Bay Company), in 1828." On page
41, Note II, "Light Canoes," we read:
The canoe du Maitre was of six fathoms, measured within, and
the canoe du Nord about four, more or less. The ordinary crew for
the former was sixteen or eighteen, and for the latter eight or nine.
The larger could stand any storm in Lakes Huron and Superior, but
it was ever the habit of voyage to avoid the encounter as much as
possible. Their ordinary load was one hundred and twenty pieces of
ninety pounds each, say five tons, with men, and passengers' baggage.
They always carried passengers, say from four to eight or even more
in case of children. I never heard of such a canoe being wrecked, or
upset, or swamped; they swam like ducks. If overtaken, as was often
the case, in a long traverse from jx>int to point, or across large bays
in the big Lakes, the heavy "parla" [red canvas oilcloth] used to be
thrown over the goods as a storm deck, and then skilled strength and
pluck, with the trusty bark, did the work.
This extract was taken from the journal of the late chief
factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, Archibald McDonald,
who accompanied1 Sir George Simpson on this voyage, — a man
during all his life engaged in the fur trade. It is supposed
that the text is intelligible enough without remark to the
close of the Third Voyage.
RADISSON'S FOURTH VOYAGE.
The Fourth Voyage commenced in the summer of 1658,
after the brothers had stayed at home for a year; and, as we
shall see, Badisson gives a more satisfactory and intelligible
account of the places they visited, and the incidents are more
distinctly stated. I shall omit much that would be interest-
ing, but will not omit such parts as I deem necessary to show
how these men became entitled to the credit of having intro-
duced trade and commerce in Minnesota.
In the spring following we were in hopes to meet some company,
having been so fortunate in the year before. Now during the winter,
whether it was that my brother revealed to his wife what we had seen
in our voyage and what we further intended, or however it came to
pass, it TV as known; so much that the Father Jesuits were desirous
to find out a way how they might get down the castors from the Bay
of the North by the Sacgnes, and so make themselves masters of that
trade. They resolved to make a trial as soon as the ice would permit
them. So to discover our intentions they were very earnest with me
to engage myself in that voyage, to the end that my brother would
give over his, which 1 utterly denied them, knowing that they could
340 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
never bring it about, because I heard the wild men say that although
the way be easy, the wild men that are fed at thei-r doors would have
hindered them, because they make a livelihood by that trade
During that time we made our proposition to the Governor of Que-
bec, that we were willing to venture our lives for the good of the coun-
try and go to travel to the remotest countries. . i . . .
The Governor gave them leave on the condition that they
should carry two of his servants along with them, and should
give him a moiety of the profits.
My brother was vexed at such an unreasonable demand, to take
inexperienced men to their ruin. All our knowledge and desire de-
pended on this last voyage, besides that the Governor should compare
two of his servants to us, that have ventured our lives so many years
and maintained the country by our generosity in the presence of all;
neither was there one that had the courage to undertake what we had
done. We made the Governor a slight answer, and told him for our
part we knew what we were, discoverers before governors. If the
wild men came down, the way for them as for us, and that we should
be glad to have the honor of his company, but not of that of his serv-
ants. The governor was much displeased at this, and commanded us
not to go without his leave. We desired the Fathers to speak to him
about it. Our addresses were slight because of the shame was put
upon them the year before by their return; besides they stayed for an
opportunity to go there themselves.
After some delay and conference with the wild men that
had come down from the upper lake, with whom they were
acquainted, mostly of the Sault nation, they resolved to start.
The wild men started first, but promised to Radisson and his
brother that they would wait for them two days at the Lake
of St. Peter.
We did not let them wait so long, for that very night, my brother
having the keys of the borough as being captain of the place, we em-
barked ourselves Being come opposite to the fort, they
ask who is there. My brother tells his name. Everyone knows what
good services we had done to the country; and they loved us, the in-
habitants as well as the soldiers. The sentry answered him, "God give
you a good voyage."
I omit the description of the passage up the Ottawa and
onward, although a hazardous and laborious one, until they
arrived at the Sault Ste. Marie.
We came after to a rapid that makes the separation between the lake
of the Hurons and that which we call the {Superior or Upper lake, for that
the wild men hold it to be the longer and broader, besides a great
many islands, which make it appear of bigger extent This rapid was
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 341
formerly the residence of those with whom we were We
made cottages at our advantage, and found the truth of what those
men had often told us, that if once we could come to that place we
should make good cheer of the white fish. The bear, the castors, and
the oriniack showed themselves often, but to their cost; indeed it was
to us like a terrestrial paradise
But the season was far spent, and diligence required us to leave
that place The weather was agreeable when we began to
navigate upon that great extent of water, finding it so calm and the air
so clear We found a small river. I was so curious that I
inquired of my dearest friends the name of the stream. They named it
PauaMckkomesibs, which signifies a small river of copper. I ask him
the reason. He told me "Come, and I will show you the reason why."
It was not two hundred paces in the wood where many pieces of cop-
per were uncovered; further he told me that the mountain I saw was
of nothing else. Seeing it so fair and pure, I had a mind to take a
piece of it, but they hindered me, telling my brother there was more
where we were to go
From this place we went along the coasts, which are most delightful
and wondrous, for it is Nature that made it so pleasant to the eye,
the spirit, and the belly. As we went along we saw banks of sand so
high that one of our wild men went up for curiosity; being there, he
showed no more than a crow. That place is most . dangerous when
there is any storm, being no landing place so long as the sandy banks
are under water; an-i when the wind blows, that sand rises by a
strange kind of whirling that are able to choke the passengers. One
day you will see fifty small mountains at one side, and the next day,
if the wind changes, on the other side
After tihis we came to a remarkable place. It is a bank of rocks
that the wild men made a sacrifice to; they call it Nanitoucksinagoit,
which signifies the likeness of the devil. They fling much tobacco and
other things in its veneration. It is a thing most incredible that that
lake should be so boisterous, that the waves of it should have the
strength to do what I have to say in this discourse: first, that it is so
high and so deep that it is impossible to climb up to the point. There
come many sorts of birds that make their nests here, the goilants,
which is a white sea-bird of the bigness of a pigeon It is
like a great portal, by reason of the beating of the waves. The lower
part of the opening is as big as a tower, and grows bigger in going up.
There is, I believe, six acres of land above it. A ship of 500 tons could
pass by, so big is the arch. 1 gave it the name of the .Portal of St.
Peter, because my name is so called, and that I was the first Christian
that ever saw it. There are in that place caves very deep, caused by
the same violence. We must look to ourselves, and take time witih our
small boats. The coast of rocks is five or six leagues, and there scarce
a place to put a boat in assurance from the waves. When the lake is
agitated the waves go into these concavities with force and make a
most terrible noise, most like the shooting of great guns.
342 MINNESOTA HISTOKICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
For a description of the Pictured Hocks, and of the Grand
Portal, see Foster and Whitney's "Report on the Geology of
the Lake Superior Land District" (Senate Ex. Doc., No. 4, Spe-
cial Session, March, 1851).
Some days afterwards we arrived to a very beautiful point of sand
where there are three beautiful islands, that we called the Trinity.
. . . . We discovered a bay very deep, where a river empties itself
with a noise for the quantity and depth of the water. We must stay
there three days to wait for fair weather to make the trainage, which
was about six leagues wide. So done, we came to the mouth of a
small river, .... We found meadows that were about ten
leagues square, as smooth as a board. We went up some five leagues
further, where we found some pools made by the castors. We must
break them that we may pass Being come to the height,
we must drag our boats over a trembling ground for the space of an
hour
Having passed that place, we made a carriage through the land
for two leagues. The way was well beaten because of the comers
and goers, who thus shorten their passage by eight days less than
would be required to pass around the point that goes very far out in
that great lake In the end of that point, tha/t goeth very
far, there is an island, as I was told, all of copper. This I have not
seen. They say that from the island of copper, which is a league in
the lake, when they are minded to thwart it in a fair and calm weather,
beginning from sunrising to sunset, they come to a great island, from
whence they come the next morning to firm land at the other side.
The crossing from the south shore of the lake is undoubt-
edly by the portage across Keweenaw point and Isle Roy ale;
but the distances are without doubt quite too far, for it is
estimated as six score and ten leagues. The Indians and
Frenchmen, however, may be excused for thinking it a great
distance, especially when they had to cross it in their small
canoes.
Five days after we came to a place where there was a company
of Christinos that were in their cottages. They were transported for
joy to see us come back. They made much of us, and called us men
indeed, to perform our promise to come and see them again. We gave
them great gifts, which caused some suspicion, for it is a very jealous
nation. But the short stay that we made took away that jealousy.
We went on and came to a hollow river which was a quarter of a
mile in breadth. Many of our wild men went to wiu the shortest way
to their nation, and we were then three and twenty boats, for we
met with some in that lake that joined with us and came to keep us
company, in hopes to get knives from us Seven boats
stayed of the nation of the Sault. We went on half a day before we
THE DISCOVERY OP THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 343
could come to the landing place, and were forced to make another car-
riage, a point of two leagues long and some sixty paces broad. As we
came to the other side, we were in a bay of ten leagues about, if we
had gone in. By going about that same point, we passed a strait, for
that point was very nigh the other side, which is a cape very much
elevated like pyramids. That point should be a very tit place to build
a fort, as we did the spring following. In that bay there is a channel
where we take great store of fishes, sturgeons of a vast bigness, and
pikes of seven feet long. At the end of this bay we landed. The wild
men gave thanks to that which they worship, we to the God of Gods,
to see ourselves in a place where we must leave our navigation and
forsake our boats to undertake a harder piece of work in hand, to
which we were forced. The men told us that we had tive great days'
journeys before we should arrive where their wives were. We foresee
the hard task that we were to undergo by carrying our bundles upon
our backs. They were used to it. Here everyone for himself and God
for all.
We finding ourselves not able to perform such a task, and as they
could not well tell where to find their wives, lest the Nadoneceronons
have wars against their nation and forced them from their appointed
place, my brother and I consulted what was best to do, and declared
our will to them, which was thus: "Brethren, we resolve to stay here,
being not accustomed to make any carriage on our backs as you are
wont. Go you and look for your wives. We will build us a fort here.
And seeing that you are not able to carry all your merchandise at once,
we will keep them for you, and will stay for you fourteen days. Be-
fore the time expires you will send to us if your wives are alive, and
if you find them they will fetch what you leave here and what we
have. For their pains they shall receive gifts from us. So you will
see us in your country. If they be dead, we will spend all to be re-
venged, and will gather up the whole country for the next spring, for
that purpose to destroy those that were the causers of their death,
and you shall see our strength and valor. Although there are seven
thousand fighting men in one village, you will see that we will make
them run. away, and you shall kill them to your best liking by the
very noise of our arms and our presence, who are the Gods of the
earth among those people."
They wondered very much at our resolution. The next day they
went their way, and we stay for our assurance in the midst of many
nations, being but two almost starved for want of food.
They built a fort, and after twelve days they saw about
fifty young men approaching, with some of their former com-
panions.
They offered to carry our baggage, being come on purpose. . . .
We went away free from any burden, whilst those poor miserable
thought themselves happy to carry our equipage, for the hope that
344 MINNESOTA HISTOKICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
they had that we should give them a brass ring, or an awl, or a needle.
There came above four hundred persons to see us go.
After leaving their fort they marched four days, and came
to the shores of a lake where there was an abundance of boats.
The next day they embarked and arrived by water at a village
of a hundred cabins without palisades. They were received
with loud outcries, and the women especially manifested their
friendship and welcome. They distributed presents to the
men, women and children, making great speeches, and prom-
ising to be their friends and to help to destroy their enemies.
After this business had been settled, the winter came on and
the snows began to fall. They made preparations for their
winter hunting, and each was informed of a rendezvous for
meeting after two months and a half in the winter, at a small
lake, where they were to advise what they should do.
During this time we sent messengers everywhere, to give special
notice to all manner of persons and nations, that within five moons
the feast of death was to be celebrated, and that we should appear to-
gether and explain what the devil should command us to say, and then
present them presents of peace and union.
After quite an interesting description of a distressing
winter, in which many die of starvation, and without much
account that is intelligible as to how they came back, we find
the mention of two men who visit them from a strange land;
and, after relating some incidents of this visit, they ,say these
men were Nadoneseronons, that they were much respected,
and that nobody durst offend them because they were upon
their land. These Indians had come to make some inquiry
about the great feast that the messengers had given notice of,
for they, the brothers, tell them "the convenientest place to
celebrate that great feast." This visit had another purpose
without doubt, for some two moons afterward came that spe-
cially noted visit of the eight ambassadors, of which Radisson
gives the history as follows:
After them came eight ambassadors from the nation of the Nadones-
eronons, that we will call now the Nation of the Beef. Those men each
had two wives, loaded with oats, corn that grows in that country, and
a small quantity of Indian corn, with other grains. It was to present
to us, which we received ^as a great favor and token of friendship; but
it had been welcome if they had brought it a month or two before.
They made great ceremonies in greasing our feet and legs, and we
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 345
painted them with red. They stripped us naked, and put upon us cloth
of buff and of white castors. After this they weeped upon our heads
until we were wetted by their tears, and made us smoke in their pipes
after they kindled them. It was not in common pipes, but pipes of
peace and of war, that they pull out but very seldom, when there is
occasion for heaven and earth. This done, they perfumed our clothes
and armor one after another, and to conclude did throw a quantity of
tobacco into the fire. We told them that they prevented us, for letting
us know that all persons of their nation came to visit us, that we -might
dispose of them.
The next morning they were called by our interpreter. We under-
stood not a word of their language, being quite different from that of
those we were with. They arrived, they sat down. We made a place
for us more elevated, to be more at our ease and to appear in more
state. We borrowed their calumet, saying that we are in their country,
and it was not lawful for us to carry anything out of our own country.
That pipe is of a red stone, as big as a fist and as long as a hand. The
small reed is as long as five feet, in breadth and thickness of a thumb.
There is tied to it the tail of an eagle all painted over with several
-colors and open like a fan, or like that makes a kind of a wheel when
he shuts. The top of the stick is covered with feathers of ducks and
other birds that are of a fine color. We took the tail of the eagle, and
instead of it we hung twelve iron bows in the same manner as the
feathers were, and a blade about it along the staff, a hatchet planted
in the ground, and that calumet over it, and all our armors about it
-on forks. Everyone smoked his pipe of tobacco, nor they never go
without it. During that while there was a great silence. We prepared
,some powder that was little wetted, and the good powder was precious
to us. Our interpreter told them in our name, "Brethren, we have ac-
cepted of your gifts. You are called here to know our will and pleas-
ure, which are as follows: first, we take you for our brethren by tak-
ing you into our protection; and, to show you, we, instead of the eagle's
tail, have put some of our armor, to the end that no enemy shall ap-
proach to break the affinity that we make now with you." Then we
took the twelve irons off the bows and lifted them, telling them that
those points shall pass over the whole world to defend you, and to de-
stroy your enemies that are ours. Then we put the irons in the same
place again. Then we took the sword and bade them have good cour-
age, that by our means they should vanquish their enemy. After we
took the hatchet that was planted in the ground, we turned round
about, telling them that we should kill those that would war against
them, and that we would make forts that they should come with more
assurance to the feast of the dead. That done, we throw powder in
the fire, that had more strength than we thought; it made the brands
fly from one side to the other. We intended to make them believe that
it was some of our tobacco, and make them -smoke as they made us
«moke. But hearing such a noise, and they seeing that the fire fled
of every side, without any further delay or look for so much time as
346 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
to look for the door of the cottage, one ran one way, another another
way; for they never saw a sacrifice of tobacco so violent. They went
all away, and we only stayed in the place. We followed them to reas-
sure them of their faintings. We visited them in their apartments,
where they received us all trembling for fear, believing really by that
same means that we were the devils of the earth. There was nothing
but feasting for eight days.
The time now was nigh that we must go to the rendezvous; this
was betwixt a small lake and a meadow. Being arrived, most of ours
were already in their cottages. In three days' time there arrived eigh-
teen several nations, and came privately, to have done the sooner. As
we became to the number of five hundred, we held a council. Then
the shouts and cries and the encouragements were proclaimed, that
a fort should be build ed ,
In two days this was finished. Some thirty young men of the na-
tion of the beef arrived there, having nothing but bows and arrows,
with very short garments, to be the nimbler in chasing the stags. The
irons of their arrows were made of stags' pointed horns very neatly.
They were all proper men, and dressed with paint. They were the dis-
coverers and the foreguard. We kept a round place in the middle of
our cabin, and covered it with long poles with skins over them, that
we might have shelter from the snow. The cottages were all in good
order; in each ten or twelve companies or families. That company
was brought to that place where there was wood laid for the fires. The
snow was taken away, and the earth covered with deal tree boughs.
Several kettles were brought there full of meat. They rested and ate
above five hours without speaking one to another. The considerablest
of our companies went and made speeches to them. Afterward one
takes his bow and shoots an arrow, and then cries aloud, then speaks
some few words, saying that they were to let them know that the eld-
ers of their village were to come the morrow to renew the friendship
and to make it with the French, and that a great many of their young
people came and brought them some part of their ways to take their
advice, for they had a mind to go against the Christines, who were
ready for them, and they in like manner to save their wives and chil-
dren. They were scattered in many cabins that night, expecting those
that were to come. To that purpose there was a vast large place pre-
pared some hundred paces from the fort, where everything was ready
for the receiving of those persons. They were to set their tents that
they bring upon their backs. The pearches were put out and planted
as we received the news, the snow put aside, and the boughs of trees
covered the ground.
The following day they arrived with an incredible pomp
The first were young people with their bows and arrows, and buck-
lers on their shoulders, upon which were represented all manner of
figures, according to their knowledge, as of the sun and moon, of ter-
restrial beasts, about its feathers very artificially painted. Most of
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 347
the men their faces were all over dabbed with several colors
They leave a tuft of hair upon their crown of their heads, tie it, and
put at the end of it some small pearls or some Turkey stones, to bind
their heads. They have a robe commonly made of a snake's skin,
where they tie several bears' paws, or give a form to some bits of
buffs' horns, and put it about the said robe. They grease themselves
with very thick grease, and mingle it in reddish earth, which they
burn, as we our bricks. With this stuff they get their hair to stand
up. They cut some down of swan or other fowl that hath a white
feather, and cover with it the crown of their heads. Their ears are
pierced in five places; the holes are so big that your little finger might
pass through. They have yellow ware that they make with copper,
made like a star or half moon, and there hang it. Many have Turkeys.
They are clothed with oriniack and stags' skins, but very light. Every-
one had the skin of a crow hanging at his girdle. Their stockings are
embroidered with pearls and with their own porke-pick work. They
have very handsome shoes, laced very thick all over, with a piece sown
to the side of the heel, which was of hair of buff, which trailed above
half a foot upon the earth, or rather on the snow. They had swords
and knives of a foot and a half long, and hatchets very ingeniously
done, and clubs of wood made like back-swords; some made of a round
head that I admired it. When they kill their enemy, they cut off the
tuft of hair and tie it about their arms. After all, they have a white
robe made of castors' skins painted.
Those having passed through the middle of ours, that were ranged
at every side of the way, the elders came with great gravity and mod-
esty, covered with buff coats which hung down to the ground. Every-
one had in his hand a pipe of council, set with precious jewels. They
had a sack on their shoulders, and that which holds it grows in the
middle of their stomachs and on their shoulders. In this sack all the
world is enclosed. Their face is not painted, but their heads dressed as
the foremost. Then the women laden like unto so many mules, their
burdens made a greater show than they themselves; but I suppose the
weight was not equivalent to its bigness. They were conducted to the
appointed place, where the women unfolded their bundles, and flung
their skins of which their tents are made, so that they had houses in
less than half an hour.
After they rested they came to the biggest cabin constituted for
that purpose. There were fires kindled. Our captain made a speech of
thanksgiving, which would be long to write it. We were called to the
council of new come chief, where we came in great pomp, as you shall
hear. First they came to make a sacrifice to the French, being Gods
and masters of all things, as well of peace as of war, making the
knives, the hatchets, and the kettles rattle, etc.; that they came purposely
to put themselves under their protection; moreover, that they came
to bring them back again to their country, having by their means de-
stroyed their enemies abroad and near. So said, they present us with
gifts of castors' skins, assuring us that the mountains were elevated,
348 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
the valleys risen, the ways very smooth, the boughs of trees cut dowry
to go with more ease, and bridges erected over rivers, for not to wet
our feet; that the doors of their villages, cottages of their wives and
daughters, were open at any time to receive us, being we kept them
alive by our merchandise. The second gift was, that they would die in
their alliance, and that to certify to all nations by continuing the peace,
and were willing to receive them and assist them in their country, being
well satisfied they were come to celebrate the feast of the dead. The
third gift was to have one of the doors of the fort opened, if need
required, to receive and keep them from the Christines that come to
destroy them; being always men, and the heavens made them so,
that they were obliged to go before to defend their country and their
wives, which is the dearest thing they had in the world, and in all
times they were esteemed stout and true soldiers, and that yet they
would make it appear by going to meet them; and they would not
degenerate, but show by their actions that they were as valiant as their
forefathers. The fourth gift was presented to us, which was of buff
skins, to desire cur assistance for being the masters of their lives, and
could dispose of them as we would, as well of the peace as of the wars,
and that we might very well see that they did well to go defend their
own country; that the true means to get the victory was to have a
thunder. They meant a gun, calling it miniskoick.
The speech being finished, they entreated us to be at the feast. We
go presently back again to furnish us with wooden bowls. We made
four men carry our guns afore us, that we charged with powder alone,
because of their unskillf ulness that they might have killed their fathers,
We each of us had a pair of pistols, a sword, and a dagger. We had
a roll of porkepick. about our heads, which was as a crown, and two
little boys that carried the vessels that we had most need of; this was
our dishes and our spoons. They made a place higher and most ele-
vate, knowing our customs, in the middle for us to sit, where we had
the men lay our arms. Presently come four elders, with the calumet
kindled in their hands. They present the candles to us to smoke, and
four beautiful maids that went before us, carrying bears' skins to put
under us. When we were together, an old man rises and throws our
calumet at our feet, and bids them take the kettles from the fire, and
spoke that he thanked the sun that never was a day to him so happy
as when he saw those terrible men whose words make the earth to
quake; and he sang a while. Having ended, he came and covered us
with his vestment, and, all naked except his feet and legs, he saith,
"Ye are masters over us; dead or alive, you have the power over us,
and may dispose of us at your pleasure." So done, he takes the calumet
of the feast, and brings it, so a maiden brings us a coal of fire to kindle
it. So done, we rose, and one of us begins to sing. We bade the inter-
preter to tell them we should save and keep their lives, taking them for
our brethren; and, to testify that, we shot off all our artillery, which
was of twelve guns. We draw our swords and long knives to our
defence, if need should require, which put the men in such a terror
THE DISCOVERY OP THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 349
that they knew not what was best, to run or stay. We throw a hand-
ful of powder in the fire to make a greater noise and smoke.
Our songs being finished, we began our teeth to work. We had
there a kind of rice, much like oats. It grows in the water in three or
four feet depth. There is a God that shows himself in every country,
almighty, full of goodness, and the preservation of those poor people
who know him not
Having next described the manner of gathering the grain,
and of dressing and cooking it, the narrative continues:
After the feast was over, there come two maidens bringing where-
withal to smoke, the one the pipes, the other the fire. They offered
first to one of the elders that sat down by us. When he had smoked,
he bids them give it us. This being done, we went back to our fort
as we came. The day following we made the principal persons come
together to answer to their gifts. Being come with great solemnity,
there we made our interpreter tell them that we were come from the
other side of the great salted lake, not to kill them but to make them
live; acknowledging you for our brethren and children, whom we will
love henceforth as our own. Then we gave them a kettle. The second
gift was to encourage them in all their undertakings, telling them that
we liked men that generously defend themselves against all their ene-
mies; and as we were masters of peace and wars, we are to dispose
the affairs that we should see an universal peace all over the earth;
and that this time we could not go and force the nations that were yet
further to condescend and submit to our will, but that we would see the
neighboring countries in peace and union; that the Christines were
our brethren, and have frequented them many winters; that we adopted
them for our children, and took them under our protection; that we
should send them ambassadors; that I myself should make them come
and conclude a general peace; that we were sure of their obedience to
us; that the first that should break the peace we would be their enemy,
and would reduce them to powder with our heavenly fire; that we had
the word of the Christines as well as theirs, and our thunders should
serve us to make wars against those that would not submit to our will
and desire, which was to see them good friends, to go and make wars
against the upper nations that do not know us as yet. The gift was
of six hatchets. The third was to oblige them to receive our proposi-
tions, likewise the Christines, to lead them to the dance of union,
which was to be celebrated at the death's feast and banquet of kindred.
If they would continue the wars, that was not the means to see us
again in their country. The fourth was that we thanked them for
making us a free passage through their countries. The gift was two
dozen knives. The last was of smaller trifles, 6 graters, 2 dozen awls,
2 dozen needles, 6 dozen looking-glasses made of tin, a dozen little
bells, 6 ivory combs, with a little vermillion. But for to make a recom-
pense to the good old man that spoke so favorably, we gave him a
Ratchet, and to the elders each a blade for a sword, and to the two
350 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
maidens that served us two necklaces, which we put about their necks,
and two bracelets for their arms. The last gift was in general for all
the women to love us and give us to eat when we should come to their
cottages. The company gave us great Ho! ho! ho!, that is, thanks.
Our wild men made others for their interest.
A company of about fifty were despatched to warn the Christinos
of what we had done. I went myself, where we arrived the third day,
early in the morning. I was received with great demonstration of
friendship. All that day we feasted, danced and sang. I compared
that place before to the buttery of Paris, for the great quantity of meat
that they used to have there; but now will compare it to that of Lon-
don. There I received gifts of all sorts of meat, of grease more than
twenty men could carry. The custom is not to deface anything that
they present. There were above six hundred men in a fort, with a
great deal of baggage on their shoulders, and did draw it upon light
sleds made very neatly. I have not seen them at their entrance, for
the snow blinded me. Coming back, we passed a lake hardly frozen,
and the sun [shone upon it] for the most part, for I looked a while
steadily on it, so I was troubled with this seven or eight days.
The mean while that we were there, arrived above a thousand
that had not been there but for those two redoubted nations that were
to see them do what they never before had, .... plays, mirths,
and battles for sport, going and coming with cries; each played his
part
Here follows a description of the drums and the manner
of playing on them. These sports continued fourteen days,
during which time Groseilliers and Radisson received more
than three hundred castors' skins as presents, but they were
so far away that they did not bring five to the French.
This feast ended, everyone returns to his country well satisfied.
To be as good as our words, we came to the nation of the beef, which
was seven small journeys from that place. We promised in like man-
ner to the Christinos that the next spring we should come to their side
of the upper lake, and there they should meet us, to come into their
country. We being arrived among that nation of the beef, we wondered
to find ourselves in a town where were great cabins most covered with
skins and other close mats. They told us that there were 7,000 men.
This we believed. These have as many wives as they can keep. If
any one did trespass upon the other, his nose was cut off, and often
the crown of his head. The maidens have all manner of freedom, but
are forced to marry when they come to the age. The more they bear
children the more they are respected. I have seen a man having four-
teen wives. There they have no wood, and make provisions of moss
for their firing. This their place is environed with pearches which are
a good distance one from another, that they get in the valleys where
the buff use to repair, upon which they do live. They sow corn, but
^o _
UNIVERSITY
THE DISCOVERY OP THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 351
their harvest is small. The soil is good, but the cold hinders it, and
the grain very small The people stay not there all the
year; they retire in winter towards the woods of the north, where they
kill a quantity of castors, and I say that there are not so good in the
whole world; but not in such store as the Christines, but far better.
We stayed there six weeks, and came back with a company of
people of the nation of the Sault, that came along with us laden with
booty
Groseilliers and Radisson have now returned from their
visit to the home of the Sioux or Nadoneseronons. Their
fort, where the two strangers and eight ambassadors came to
visit them, was probably at the outlet of Kainy lake, where
there was a trading post under the French during their suprem-
acy, later a post of the Northwest Company, and it was con-
tinued, until within a few years, by the Hudson Bay Company.
Our great authority as to the history of Indian tribes in Min-
nesota is William W. Warren, and I quote what he has to say
about the great and favorite home of the Sioux when the
Ojibways commenced the invasion of their territory. It is
found in chapter xiii, page 175, of volume 5, Minnesota His-
torical Society Collections.
The region of country from which the Mississippi derives its source,
is covered with innumerable fresh and clear water lakes connected
with one another, and flowing into the "Fattier of Rivers" through
rapid and meandering streams. All these lakes and streams abound
with fish of the finest species and flavor. In Leech, Winnepeg, Cass,
and other of the larger lakes, the whitefish are found equal in size to
the celebrated whitefish in Lake Superior. And so are also the salmon
trout which (curious enough) are to be found only in Puk-a-gum-ah and
Trout lakes. Muscallonge have been found to grow to the great size
of from four to six feet in length. Brook trout, sturgeon and catfish
are not found in the waters of the Mississippi above the Falls of St.
Anthony.
The shores of these beautiful lakes are lined with groves of the tall
pine, and the useful maple from which the Indian manufactures sugar.
The birch tree also abounds, from which the Ojibway has long been
accustomed to procure the covering to his wigwam, and material for
the formation of his ingeniously wrought canoe. In many of these
lakes which lie clustered together within an area of several hundred
miles, the wild rice grows in large quantities and most luxuriantly,
affording the Indian an important staple of subsistence.
In former times this region of country abounded in buffalo, moose,
deer, and bear, and till within thirty years past, in every one of its
many water courses, the lodges of the valuable and industrious beaver
were to be found.
in.— 6
352 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
Possessing these manifold advantages, this country has always been
a favorite home and i-esort for the wild Indian, and over its whole ex-
tent battle fields are pointed out where different tribes have battled
for its possession.
The attention of the Ojibways wa3 early directed to it. They
found it in possession of the powerful and wide-spread Dakotas, whom,
after many years of severe fighting, they eventually forced to seek for
new homes farther \\estward, and they in turn took possession and
have kept to this day the large and beautiful lakes which form the
sources of the "Great River."
On pages 188-191 we learn that the noted chief Bi-aus-wah
made his home at Sandy Lake about 1730, and that about the
year 1745 the Ojibway pioneer hunters, braving the attacks
of their enemies, first permanently planted their wigwams
on the shores of Lac du Flambeau and Lac Coutereille (Courtes
Oreilles), in northwestern Wisconsin.
Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in his "General History of the
Fur Trade," on page Ixii, says :
Lake Winipic is the great reservoir of several large rivers, and dis-
charges itself by the River Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The first in
rotation, next to that I have just described, is the Assiniboin or Red
River, which, at the distance of forty miles coastwise, disembogues on
the southwest side of Lake Winipic. It alternately receives) those two
denominations from its dividing, at the distance of about thirty miles
from the lake, into two large branches. The eastern branch, called the
Red River, runs in a southern direction to near the head waters of the
Mississippi The country on either side is but partially
supplied with wood, and consists of plains covered with herds of the
buffalo and the elk, especially on the western side. On the eastern side
are lakes and rivers, and the whole country is well wooded, level,
abounding in beaver, bears, moose-deer, fallow-deer, &c., &c. The na-
tives, who are of the Algonquin tribe, are not very numerous, and are
considered as the natives of Lake Superior. This country, being near
the Mississippi, is also inhabited by the Nadowasis, who are the nat-
ural enemies of the former; the head of the water being the war-line,
they are in a continual state of hostility; and though the Algonquins
are equally brave, the others generally outnumber them; it is very
probable, therefore, that if the latter continue to venture out of the
woods, which form their only protection, they will soon be extirpated.
There is not, perhaps, a finer country in the world for the residence of
uncivilized man, than that which occupies the space between this river
and Lake Superior. It abounds in everything necessary to the wants
and comfort of such a people. Fish, venison, and fowl, with wild rice,
ire in great plenty; while, at the same time, their subsistence requires
that bodily exercise so necessary to health and vteor.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 353
The other branch is called after the tribe of the Nadawasis, who
Aere go by the name of Assiniboins, and are the principal inhabitants
of it. It runs from off the north-northwest, and, in the latitude of 51£
west and longitude 103£, rising in the same mountains as the river
Dauphin, of which 1 shall speak in due order. They must have sepa-
rated from their nation at a time beyond our knowledge, and live in
peace with the Algonquins and Knisteneaux.
Parkman, in the introduction to "La Salle and the Dis-
covery of the Great West," page xxv, says :
At length, in 1658, two daring traders penetrated to Lake Superior,
wintered there, and brought back tales of the ferocious Sioux, and of
a great western river on which they dwelt.
Continuing, on page 220, the narrative of Radisson, we
read :
. We were twelve days before we could overtake our company that
went to the lake. The spring approaches, which is the fittest time to
kill the oriniack. A wild man and I with my brother killed that time
above six hundred, besides other beasts. We came to the lake side
with much pains, for we sent our wild men before, and we two were
forced to make carriage five days through the woods. After that we
met with a company that did us a great deal of service, for they car-
ried what we had, and arrived at the appointed place before three
days ended. Here we made a fort. At our arrival we found at least
twenty cottages full.
One very fair evening we went to find what we hid before, which
we find in a good condition. We went about to execute our resolution,
forseeing that we must stay that year there, for which we were not
very sorry, being resolved to know what we heard before. We waited
until the ice should vanish, but received [news] that the Octanaks built
a fort on the point that forms that bay, which resembles a small lake.
We went towards it with all speed. We had a great store of booty
which we would not trust to the wild men, for the occasion makes the
thief. We overload our slide on that rotten ice, and the further we
went the sun was stronger, which made our trainage have more dif-
ficulty. I seeing my brother so strained, I took the slide, which was
heavier than mine, and he mine. Being in that extent above four
leagues from the ground, we sunk down about the one half of my leg
in the ice, and must advance in spite of our teeth. To leave our booty
was to undo us. We strived so that I hurt myself, insomuch that 1
could not stand upright, nor any further. This put us in great trouble.
Upon this I advised my brother to leave me with his sled. We put the
two sleds one by another. I took some clothes to cover me. After I
stripped myself from my wet clothes, I layed myself down on the
Bled; my brother leaves me to the keeping of that good God. We had
not above two leagues more to go. He makes haste and came there
in time, and sends wild men for me and the sleds. There we found
354 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
the perfidiousness of the Octanaks. Seeing us in extremity, they would
prescribe us laws. We promised them whatever they asked. They
came to fetch me
We came to the seaside, where we find an old house all demolished
and battered with bullets. We were told that those that came there
were of two nations, one of the wolf, the other of the long-horned beast.
.... They tell us particulars of Europeans
We went from isle to isle all that summer. We plucked abundance
of ducks, as of all other sort of fowls; we wanted not fish nor fresh meat.
We were well beloved, and [they] were overjoyed that we promised
them to come with such ships as we invented. This place has a great
store of cows. The wild men kill them not except for necessary use. We
went further in the bay to see the place that they were to pass that sum-
mer. The river comes from the lake and empties itself in the river of
Sagnes, called Tadousack, which is a hundred leagues in the great river
of Canada, as where we were in the Bay of the North. We left in this
place our marks and rendezvous. The wild men that brought us de-
fended us above all things, if we would come directly to them, that we
should by no means land, and so go to the river to the other side, that
is, to the north, towards the sea, telling us that those people were very
treacherous
They clothe themselves all over with castors' skins in winter, and
with stags' skins in summer. They are the best huntsmen of all Amer-
ica, and scorn to catch a castor in a trap They have the same
tenents as the nation of the beef, and their apparel from top to toe.
. . . . a nation called among themselves neuter. They speak the
beef and Cliristinos' speech, being friends to both
In the beginning of spring there came a company of men that came
to see us from the elders, and brought us furs to entice us to see them
again The boats ready, we embark ourselves. We were
700. There was not seen such a company to go down to the French.
There were above 400 Christines' boats that brought us their castors,
in hopes that the people would give some merchandise for them.
. . . . The company that we had, filled above 360 boats. There
were boats that carried seven men, and the least two. It was a pleas-
ure to see that embarking, for all the young women went in stark
naked, their hair hanging down, yet it is not the custom to do so. I
thought it their shame, but contrary they think it excellent and old
custom good. They sing aloud and sweetly. They stood in their boats,
and remained in that posture half a day, to encourage us to come and
lodge with them again. Therefore they are not altogether ashamed
to show us all, to intice us, and to animate the men to defend them-
selves valiantly and come and enjoy them.
In two days we arrived at the River of the Sturgeon, so called be-
cause of the great quantity of sturgeons that we took there. Here we •
were to make our provisions to pass the lake some fourteen days. In
the said time we dried above a thousand of sturgeons. The women
followed us close; after our abode there two days they overtook us.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 355
We had several false alarms, which put us in several troubles. They
wondered to have found a oryanck dead upon the place, with a bullet
In his body. There thousand lies were forged. Therefore we go from
thence, but before we come to the long point whereof we spoke before
. . . . we perceive smoke. We go to discover what it was, and
by ill luck we found it was an Iroquois boat of seven men, who doubt-
less stayed that winter in the Lake of the Hurons, and came there to
discover somewhat As they saw us, away they, as swift
as their heels could drive. They left their boat and all. They to the
woods, and were pursued, but in vain, for they were gone before three
hours. The pursuers came back; one brings a gun, one a hatchet, the
other a kettle, and so forth. The council was called, where it was de-
creed to go back and put off to go down to the French till the next
year. This vexed us sore to see such a fleet and such an opportunity
come to nothing, foreseeing that such another may be not in ten years.
We were to persuade them to the contrary, but they checked us
soundly, saying we were worse than enemies by persuading them to
go and be slain. In this we must let their fear pass over, and we back
to the River of the Sturgeons, where we found our wives, very busy
in killing those creatures that come there to multiply. We daily hear
some new report; all everywhere enemies by fancy.
We in the mean time busy ourselves in the good of our country,
which will recompense us badly for such toil and labor. Twelve days
are passed, in which time we gained some hopes of fair words. We
called a council before the company was disbanded, where we repre-
sented that, if they were discoverers, they would not have valued the
loss of their kettle, knowing well they were to get another where their
army lay, and if there should be an army it should appear, and we in
such a number they could be well afraid and turn back. Our reasons
were heard and put in execution. The next day we embarked, saving
the Christines that were afraid of a sight of a boat made of another
stuff than theirs, that they went back as we came where the Iroquois
boat was. Our words proved true, and so we proceeded in our way.
Being come nigh the Sault, we found a place where two of these
men sweated, and for want of covers buried themselves in the sand
by the water side to keep their bodies from the flies called maringoines,
which otherwise had killed them with their stings. We thwarted those
two lakes with great pleasure, having the wind fair with us. It was
a great satisfaction to see so many boats, and so many that never had
before commerce with the French. So my brother and I thought we
should be welcomed. But, O Covefcousness, thou art the cause of many
evils! We made a small sail to every boat; everyone strove to be not
the last. The wind was double ways favorable to us. The one gave us
rest, the other advanced us very much, which we wanted because of
the above said delay. We now are come to the carriages and swift
streams to get the Lake of the Castors. We made them with a courage,
promptitude, and hunger which made us go with haste as well as the
wind. We go down all the great river without any encounter, till we
356 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
come to the Long Sault, where. my brother some years before made a
shipwreck. Being in that place we had work enough. The first thing
we saw was several boats that the enemy had left at the river side.
This put great fear in the hearts of our people. Nor they nor we could
tell what to do; and seeing nobody appear, we sent to discover what
vhey were. The discoverers call us, and bid us come, that those who
,vere there could do us no harm.
You must know that seventeen French made a plot with four Algon-
quins to make a league with three score Hurons for to go and wait for
the Iroquois in the passage at their return with their castors on their
ground, hoping to beat and destroy them with ease, being destitute of
necessary things. If one has -his gun, he wants his powder; and so
the rest. All the other side without doubt had notice that the travelers
were abroad, and would not fail to come down, with a company, and
to make a valiant deed and heroic action was to destroy them all, and
consequently make the French tremble as well as the wild men, for
the one could not live without the other; the one for his commodities,
the other for his castors; so that the Iroquois, pretending to wait for
us at the passage, came thither flocking. The French and wild com-
pany, to put the Iroquois in some fear and hinder their coming there
so often with such confidence, were resolved to lay a snare for them.
That company of soldiers, being come to the farthest place of that
Long Sault without being discovered, thought already to be conquerors
making carriage, having abroad fifteen men to make discoveries, but
met as many enemies. They assaulted each other, and the Iroquois
found themselves weak, left there their lives and bodies, saving two
that made their escape and went to give notice to two hundred of theirs
that made ready as they heard the guns, to help their foreguard. The
French, seeing such great odds, made a retreat, and warned by four
Algonquins that a fort was built not far off, built by this nation the
last year, they fled into it in an ill hour. In the mean while the Iro-
quois consulted what they should do; they sent to five hundred and
fifty Iroquois of the lower nation, and fifty Orijonot that were not far
off. Now they would assault the French in their fort, the fort not
holding more than twenty men. The Hurons could not come in, and
could not avoid the shot of the enemy. Then the French pulled down
the fort, and, closed together, they stoutly began to work. Those that
the French had killed, they cut their heads off and put them upon long
poles of their fort. This skirmish lasted two days and two nights.
The Iroquois find themselves plagued, for the French had a kind of
bucklers and shelters. Now arrive six hundred men that they did not
think of in the least. Here is nothing but cries, fire, and flame day and
night. Here is not to be doubted, the one to take the other, the one to
defend himself till death. The Hurons, seeing such a company, sub-
mitted to the enemy, but are like to pay for their cowardice; being in
their hands, they were tied, abused, smitten, and burned as if they
were taken by force, for those barbarous were revenged on their bones
as any was wounded or killed in the battle.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 857
In this great extremity, our small company of one and twenty did
resist five days against eight hundred men, and the two foremost days
against two hundred, which were seven days together without inter-
mission; and the worst was that they had no water, as we saw, for
they made a hole in the ground out of which they got but little because
they were on a hill. It was to be pitied. There was not a tree but was
shot with bullets. The Iroquois came with bucklers to make a breach.
The French put fire to a barrel of powder, thinking to shock the Iro-
quois or make them go back; but did to their great prejudice, for it
fell again in their fort which made an end of their combat. Upon this
the enemy enters, kills and slays all that he finds, so one did not make
an escape All the French, though dead, were tied to posts
along the river side, and the four Algonquins. As for the Hurons, they
were burnt at their discretion. Some nevertheless escaped to bring the
certain news how all passed. It was & terrible spectacle to us, for we
came there eight days after that defeat, which saved us without
doubt
We went down the river without making any carriage, and we
adventured very much. As soon as we were at the lower end, many of
our wild men had a mind to go back and not to go any further, thinking
really that all the French were killed. As for my brother and I, we did
fear very much that after such a thing the pride of the enemy would
make them attempt anything upon the habitations of Mount Royal,
which is but thirty leagues from thence. We advised them to make a
fort and to send immediately two very light boats, that
could not be overtaken if the enemy should discover them; and that,
being arrived at the habitation, they should make them shoot the pieces
of ordnance, and that as soon as the night should come we would
embark ourselves and should hear the noise, or else we should take
council of what we should do, and stay for them at the height of the
isle of Mount Royal; which was done accordingly Our
two boats did go, but the rest were so impatient that they resolved to
follow them, being willing to run the same hazard; and we arrived the
next morning and were in sight when the pieces were shot off, with a
great deal of joy to see so great a number of boats that did almost
cover the whole river.
We stayed three days at Mount Royal, and then we went down to
the Three Rivers. The wild men asked our advice whether it was best
for them to go down further. We told them no, because of the dangers
that they may meet with on their return; for the Iroquois could have
notice of their coming down and so come and lie in ambush for them,
and it was in the latter season, being about the end of August. Well,
as soon as their business was done, they went back again very well
satisfied, and we very ill satisfied for our reception, which was very
bad considering the service we had done to the country, which will at
another time discourage those that by our example would be willing
to venture their lives for the benefit of the country, seeing a Governor
that would grow rich by the labors and hazards of others. . .
358 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
The Governor, seeing us come back with a considerable sum for our
own particular, and seeing that his time was expired and that he was
to go away, made use of that excuse to do us wrong and to enrich him-
self with the goods that we had so dearly bought, and by our means
we made the country to subsist, that without us had been, I believe, oft-
entimes quite undone and ruined, and the better to say at his last bid-
ding, no castors, no ship, and what to do without necessary commo-
dities. He made also my brother prisoner for not having observed his
orders, and to be gone without his leave, although one of his letters
made him blush for shame, not knowing what to say, but that he would
have some of them at what price soever, that he might the better
maintain his coach and horses at Paris. He fined us four thousand
pounds to make a fort at the Three Rivers, telling us for all manner
of satisfaction that he would give as leave to put our ccat of arms upon
it, and, moreover, 6,000 pounds for the country, saying that we should
not take it so strangely and so bad, being we were inhabitants and did
intend to finish our days in the same country with our relations and
friends. But the Bougre did grease his chops with it, and more, made
us pay a custom which was the fourth part, which came to 14,000
pounds, so that we had left but 4t$,000 pounds, and took away £24,000.
Was not he a tyrant to deal so with us, after we had so hazarded our
lives, and having brought, in less than two years by that voyage, as
the Factors of the country said, between forty and fifty thousand
pistoles? For they spoke to me in this manner: "In which country
have you been? From whence do you come? For we never saw the
like. From whence did come such excellent castors?" . . . . See-
ing ourselves so wronged, my brother did resolve to go and demand
justice in France.
For a short account of the defeat of Adam Dollard and the
Hurons in the fight at the Long Sault, see a note in Prof. J. G.
Shea's translation of Charlevoix's "History of New France,''
on page 33, volume 3. It is also mentioned in the "Journal des
Je'suites," page 284, June 8, 1660. For the purpose of estab-
lishing the date of the return of Groseilliers and Radisson, I
cite the following extract from the "Journal des Je'suites" of
August, 1660, page 286:
On the 17th, my Lord de PetrSe started for his visit to Three Riv-
ers and Montreal, with Mons. de Charny and others and the four
Oiochronons. He arrived at Montreal on the 21st at five o'clock of the
evening, where the Ottawas had arrived on the 19th. The Ottawas
started from that place the next day, on the 22nd, and arrived at Three
Rivers on the 24th, and departed on the 27th. They were three hun-
dred. Des Grosilleres was in their company, who had gone there the
year before. They started from lake Superior with a hundred canoes;
forty went back, and sixty arrived here loaded with furs to the value
of 200,000 livres. They left at Montreal 50,000 livres, and brought the
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 359
remainder to Three Rivers. They came from that place in twenty-
six days, and were two months in returning. Des Grosillers passed
the winter with the nation of the Beef, which he estimates as four
thousand men; they are the settled Nadonesseronons. Father Mesnard,
Father Albanel, Jean Guerin, and six other Frenchmen, went back
with them.
The Fourth Voyage of Radisson is entitled to, and shall
have, a candid and fair consideration. In the spring of 1658
our voyagers, notwithstanding the opposition of Governor Ar-
genson and the Jesuits, started to visit the Bay of the North
(Hudson's Bay). The Sault Ste. Marie and its whitefish, the
copper, the Pictured Rocks and Grand Portal, the portage
across Keweenaw Point, and Isle Royale, are eternal wit-
nesses of the truth of the story as given by Radisson. It would
have been agreeable if he had told us of the Grand Portage of
nine miles, from lake Superior to the Groseilliers (Pigeon)
river, but we have learned that such small matters do not
count in this story.
In five days they find the Christinos, in their cottages, who
receive them with many demonstrations of joy. I think I may
assume that this place was at the "first landing isle," from
which they had returned home in 1657; and, as we are in-
formed that this voyage was for the purpose of visiting Hud-
son's bay, it must have been by what was afterwards known
as the Canoe Route of the Fur Trade to Hudson's bay and
the Northwest, as given by Mackenzie. The brothers had
spent about a year at this place on their third voyage. They
without doubt knew by hearsay the whole country and its
inhabitants, and knew the relative locations of each of the
Indian nations. After some days of rest they again start
for the purpose of making a selection for a trading post. We
have known these men for three years as we have followed
them in their third voyage. We have found them men of
great intelligence, and would expect them to use their best
judgment in locating their home in the country for the pur-
pose of trade with the Indians. We have learned, in the quota-
tions from Warren and Mackenzie, where the best and most
abundant furs were to be found. They in their day undoubt-
edly knew well the most convenient place, by inquiring of the
Christinos who were natives of the country, and knew the
Sioux and their home and the Hudson's bay. With this knowl-
360 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
edge we believe that the place at which they landed and
abandoned their boats, and which the Christinos went from
to hunt for their wives, was at the outlet of Rainy lake. There
has been a trading post at this point, a very large one in early
days, beginning even back in the days of tradition and con-
tinuing down to the end of the fur trade by the canoe route.
We assume, therefore, that this was their home. From this
point all these journeys can easily be traced, and the main
incidents of the fourth voyage made to harmonize. The two
Sioux strangers who found them on their own land, the eight
ambassadors and their wives, and the great number of men
and women that came to the treaty, so graphically described,
could comfortably come to this place, and would feel at home,
as it was in their own country. The accurate descriptions of
their persons, clothing and skin tents, their gravity in council,
with their pipes, are true to the letter; and it was not possible
for Radisson to have learned of these things from hearsay, nor
even from the Christinos, their nearest neighbors, without be-
ing in the Sioux country. But it is not necessary to speculate
about the matter, for the visit to Hudson's bay is to be proved
beyond a doubt, and that includes and makes possible every-
thing else pertaining to the voyage.
That part of the text in reference to their visit to the bay
is very short. They spend the summer with the Indians, in
visiting James bay and the river that connects with the Sague-
nay, which joins the St. Lawrence one hundred leagues from
its mouth. They made a location there at the southeast ex-
tremity of the bay, on what was afterward called Prince
Rupert's river, and went to lake Winnipeg on their way home
to visit the Assiniboines, in order to induce them to go down
to the French. The account of the voyage home does not
require further comment. Their treatment by the Governor
and their resolve to go to France for justice are all told, and
it is not necessary to discuss them; and I now proceed to give
the evidence upon which I rely to fully prove the truth of the
record.
In Prof. J. G. Shea's translation of Charlevoix's "History of
New France," on page 230 of volume 3, I find the following
note:
Medard Chouart de Groseilliers was a native of Touraine and an
experienced pilot. He was an early emigrant to Canada, where he
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 361
married a daughter of Abraham Martin, king's pilot. He reached
James Bay overland from Lake Assiniboin, and, returning, endeavored
to induce the Quebec merchants, and subsequently the French court,
to send ships to Hudson's Bay. Failing to induce them, he went to
JBngland, and, with Radisson, conducted an English vessel, commanded
.by Zachariah Gillam, a New Englander, to the bay.
On page 305, volume 9, "Documents relating to the Colonial
History of the State of New York," M. de Denonville, Governor
,of New France, in a paper accompanying his letter of Novem-
ber 8, 1686, to M.de Seignelay, Minister of Colonies and Marine,
discussing the right of France to the Iroquois country and
Hudson's bay, says :
The settlement made by the English in 1662 at the head of North
Bay does not give them any title, because it has been already remarked
that the French were in possession of those countries, and had traded
with the Indians of that Bay, which is proved still better by the knowl-
edge the men named Desgroselliers and Radisson had of those parts
where they introduced the English. They had traded there, no doubt,
with the old French Coureurs de bois.
I am gratified in being able to add an English authority on
this subject, in confirmation of the truthfulness of Kadisson.
In an article in John Oldmixon's history, "The British Empire
in America," edition of 1741, the author, speaking of Hudson's
bay, says, on page 544:
The civil wars in England put discoveries out of men's heads. The
bold had other work cut out for them, and we hear of no more sucli
adventures till the year 1667, when Zachariah Gillam, in the Nonsucn
ketch, passed through Hudson's straits, and then into Baffin's bay to
75 degrees, and thence southward into 51 degrees, where, in a river
afterwards called Prince Rupert's river, he had a friendly correspond-
ence with the natives, built a fort, named Charles Fort, and returned
with success.
The occasion of Gillarn's going was this: Monsieur Radisson and
Monsieur Gooselier, two Frenchmen, meeting with some savages in the
Lake of Assimponals, in Canada, they learned of them that they might
go by land to the bottom of the bay, where the English had not yet
been; upon which they desired them to conduct them thither, and the
savages accordingly did it. The two Frenchmen returned to the upper
lake the same way they came, and thence to Quebec, the capital of
€anada, where they offered the principal merchants to carry ships to
Hudson's bay; but their project was rejected. Thence they went to
France, in hopes of a more favorable hearing at court; but, after pre-
senting several memorials and spending a great deal of time and money,
they were answered as they had been at Quebec, and their project
362 ' MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
looked upon as chimerical. The King of England's ambassador at
Paris, hearing what proposals they had made, imagined he should do
his country good service in engaging them to serve the English, who
had already pretences to the bay; so he persuaded them to go for
London, where they met with a favorable reception from some men of
quality, merchants and others, who employed Gillam, before men-
tioned, a New England captain, in the voyage; and Radisson and
Gooselier accompanying them, they arrived at the bottom of the bay,
and succeeded as we have hinted already.
When Gillam returned, the adventurers concerned in fitting them
out applied themselves to King Charles II. for a patent, who granted
one to them and their successors for the bay called Hudson's Straits.
The patent bears date the 2d of May, in the 22d year of that king's
reign, A. D. 1670.
The first proprietors, or company, called Hudson's Bay Cornpauyr
were:
Prince Rupert, Mr. Richard Cradock,
Sir John Hayes, Mr. John Letton,
Mr. William Young, Christopher Wrenn, Esq.,
Mr. Gerard Weymans, Mr. Nicholas Hayward.
We now close the review of the third and fourth voyages
of Groseilliers and Radisson, with the sequel down to the
organization of the Hudson's Bay Company in 1670. Their
achievements are without a parallel in history, and they have
proved themselves and deserve to be recognized as the most
noted men that New France or Canada ever produced. They
do not require any eulogy from me. I have, as I believe, faith-
fully presented their claim to be considered (as I think they
are entitled to be considered) honest, truthful men, by all intel-
ligent readers.
ROUTE OF THE FUR TRADE ALONG THE NORTHERN BOUNDARY
OF MINNESOTA.
The history of the fur trade in the Northwest, from the
iays of Groseilliers and Radisson until the surrender of the
Country to the English by the Treaty of Paris in 1763, may
some day be found among the unpublished letters of the
officials of New France and the Jesuits. It is not worth while
to anticipate what they will reveal. The general history of
this trade from 1763 is pretty well known, but does not come
within the scope of this paper. I am, however, tempted to
add some extracts describing the canoe route used in this
traffic along the northern boundary of Minnesota, from lake
Superior to the Lake of the Woods.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 363
Alexander Henry's "Travels and Adventures in Canada
and the Indian Territories, between the years 1760 and 1776,"
was printed in 1809. The following extracts are taken from
this work, pages 236-249, in chapter 8, Part 2 :
On the 10th day of June, 1775, I left the Sault, with goods and
provisions to the value of throe thousand pounds sterling, on board
twelve small canoes and four larger ones. The provisions made the
chief bulk -of the cargo, no further supply being obtainable till we
should have advanced far into the country. Each small canoe was
navigated by three men, and each larger one by four
At the Grand Portage I found the traders in a state of extreme
reciprocal hostility, each pursuing his interests in such a manner as
might most injure his neighbor. The consequences were very hurtful
to the morals of the Indians.
The transportation of the goods at this grand portage, or great carry-
ing-place, was a work of seven days of severe and dangerous exertion,
at the end of which we encamped on the river Aux Groseilles. . . .
On the eighth [day of July] we ascended the Groseilles to the
carrying-place called the Portage du Perdrix, where the river falls
down a precipice of the height of a hundred feet [The de-
scription of this route from Grand Portage will be given chiefly from
Sir Alexander Mackenzie's account of his voyage in 1798.]
On the twentieth [of July] we reached Lake Sagunac, or Sagnaga,
distant sixty leagues from the Grand Portage. This was the hither-
most post in the northwest, established by the French; and there was
formerly a large village of Chipeways here, now destroyed by the Na-
dowessies. I found only three lodges, filled with poor, dirty and almost
naked inhabitants, of whom I bought fish and wild rice, which latter
they had in great abundance. When populous, this village used to be
troublesome to the traders, obstructing their voyages, and extorting
liquor and other articles. . . . .'
We now entered Lake a la Plule, which is fifteen leagues long, by
five broad
The River a la Pluie is forty leagues long, of a gentle current.
. . . . There were perfect solitudes, not even a canoe presenting
itself, along my whole navigation of the stream. I was greatly struck
with the beauty of the scene, as well as with its fitness for agricultural
settlements, in which provisions might be raised for the northwest.
On the thirtieth, we reached the Lake of the Woods, or Lake des
lies, at the entrance of which was an Indian village of a hundred
souls
From this village we received ceremonious presents. The mode
with the Indians is, first to collect all the provisions they can spare,
and place them in a heap; after which they send for the trader, and
address him in a formal speech. They tell him that the Indians are
happy in seeing him return to their country; that they have been long
in expectation of his arrival; that their wives have deprived them-
364 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
selves of the provisions, in order to afford him a supply; that they are
in great want, being destitute of everything, and particularly of am-
munition and clothing; and that what they most long for is a taste of
his rum, which they uniformly denominate milk.
The present, in return, consisted in one keg of gunpowder, of sixty
pounds weight; a bag of shot, and another of powder, of eighty pounds
each; a few smaller articles, and a keg of rum. The last appeared
to be the chief treasure, though on the former depended the greater
part of their winter's subsistence.
In a short time, the men began to drink, while the women brought
me a further and very valuable present of twenty bags of rice. This I
returned with goods and rum, and at the same time offered more, for
an additional quantity of rice. A trade was opened, the women bar-
tering rice, while the men were drinking. Before morning, I had pur-
chased a hundred bags, of nearly a bushel measure each. Without a
large quantity of rice, the voyage could not have been prosecuted to its
completion
The Lake of the Woods is thirty-six leagues long. On the west side
is an old French fort or trading-house, formerly frequented by numer-
ous bands of Chipeways, but these have since been almost entirely de-
stroyed by the Nado\\ essies
On the sixteenth [of August] we reached Lake Winipegon, at the
entrance of which is a large village of Christinaux The
name is variously written; as Cristinaux, Kinistineaux, Killistinoes
and Killistinaux The dress and other exterior appearances
of the Cristinaux are very distinguishable from those of the Chipeways-
and Wood Indians.
The men were almost entirely naked, and their bodies painted with
1 red ochre, procured in the mountains, and often called vermilion,
The women, like the men, paint their faces with red ochre; and in
addition usually tatoo two lines, reaching from the lip to the chin, or
from the corners of the mouth to the ears. They omit nothing to make
themselves lovely .... and, not content with the power belong-
ing to these attractions, they condescend to beguile, with gentle looks,
the hearts of passing strangers. The men, too, unlike the Ghippewas-
(who are of a jealous temper) eagerly encourage them in this design.
One of the chiefs assured me that the children borne by their women
to Europeans were bolder warriors, and better hunters, than them-
selves.
The Cristinaux have usually two wives each, and often three; and
make no difficulty in lending one of them, for a length of time to a friend.
Some of my men entered into agreements with the respective husbands,
in virtue of which they embarked the women in the canoes, promising
to return them the next year. The women, so selected, consider them-
selves as honored; and the husband who should refuse to lend his wife,,
would fall under the condemnation of the sex in general.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 365
Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in his "General History of the
Fur Trade from Canada to the Northwest," (forming a part of
his "Voyages from Montreal ... in the years 1789 and
1793," published in London in 1801), after a description of the
route from Lachine, Canada, by way of the Ottawa and the
lakes Huron and Superior to the Grand Portage, says :
At length they all arrive at the Grand Portage, which is one hun-
dred and sixty leagues from St. Mary's, and situated on a pleasant bay
on the north side of the lake, in latitude 48. north and longitude 90.
west from Greenwich. ...
At the entrance of the bay is an island which screens the harbor
from every wind except the south The bottom of the bay,
which forms an amphitheatre, is clear and inclosed; and on the left
corner of it, beneath an hill, three or four hundred feet in height, and
crowned by others of a still greater altitude, is the fort, picketed in
with cedar palisadoes, and inclosing houses built with wood and cov-
ered with shingles. They are calculated for every convenience of trade
as well as to accommodate the proprietors and clerks during their
short residence there. The North men live under tents; but the more
frugal pork-eater lodges beneath his canoe
When they are arrived at the Grand Portage, which is near nine
miles over, each of them has to carry eight packages of such goods
and provisions as are necessary for the interior country
Having finished this toilsome part of their duty, if more goods are
necessary to be transported, they are allowed a Spanish dollar for
each package; and so inured are they to this kind of labor, that I have
known some of them set off with two packages of ninety pounds each,
and return with two others of the same weight, in the course of six
hours, being a distance of eighteen miles over hills and mountains.
This necessary part of the business being over, if the season be early,
they have some respite, but this depends upon the time the North men
begin to arrive from their winter quarters, which they commonly do
early in July. At this period, it is necessary to select from the pork-
eaters a number of men, among whom are the recruits, or winterers,
sufficient to man the North canoes necessary to carry, to the river of
the Rainy lake, the goods and provision requisite for the Athabasca
country; as the people of that country (owing to the shortness of the
season and length of the road [they] can come no further) are equipped
there, and exchange ladings with the people of whom we are speak-
ing, and both return from whence they came
The North men, being arrived at the Grand Portage, are regaled
with bread, pork, butter, liquor, and tobacco, and such as have not en-
tered into agreements during the winter, which is customary, are con-
tracted with, to return and perform the voyage for one, two, or three
years: their accounts are also settled, and such as choose to send any
of their earnings to Canada, receive drafts to transmit to their relations
366 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
or friends: and as soon as they can be got ready, which requires no
more than a fortnight, they are again dispatched to their respective
departments
The people being dispatched to their respective winter quarters,
the agents from Montreal, assisted by their clerks, prepare to return
there, by getting the furs across the portage, and, re-making them into
packages of one hundred pounds weight each, to send them to Montreal,
where they commonly arrive about the month of September.
The mode of living at the Grand Portage is as follows: The pro-
prietors, clerks, guides, and interpreters, mess together, to the number
of sometimes an hundred, at several tables in one large hall, the pro-
vision consisting of bread, salt pork, beef, hams, fish, and venison, but-
ter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, spirits, wine, &c., and plenty of
milk, for which purpose several milch cows are constantly kept. The
mechanics have rations of such provisions, but the canoe-men, both
from the North and Montreal, have no other allowance here, or in the
voyage, than Indian corn and melted fat. The corn for this purpose
is prepared before it leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a strong alkali,
which takes off the outer husk; it is then well washed, and carefully
dried upon stages, when it is fit for use. One quart of this is boiled
for two hours, over a moderate fire, in a gallon of water; to which,
when it has boiled a small time, are added two ounces of melted
suet; this causes the corn to split, and in the time mentioned makes a
pretty thick pudding. If to this is added a little salt (but not before
it is boiled, as it would interrupt the operation), it makes an whole-
some, palatable food, and easy of digestion. This quantity is fully suf-
ficient for a man's subsistence during twenty-four hours
The Americans call this dish nominee.
The trade from the Grand Portage is, in some particulars, carried
on in a different manner with that from Montreal. The canoes used
in the latter transport are now too large for the former, and some of
about half the size are procured from the natives, and are navigated
by four, five, or six men, according to the distance which they have to
go. They carry a lading of about thirty-five packages, on an average;
of these twenty-three are for the purpose of trade, and the rest are
employed for provisions, stores, and baggage. In each of these canoes
are a foreman and sternman; tne one to be always on the look out
and direct the passage of the vessel, and the other to attend the helm.
They also carry her, whenever that oifice is necessary. The foreman
has the command, and the middle-men obey both; the latter earn only
two-thirds of the wages which are paid the two former. Independent
of these a conductor or pilot is appointed to every four or six of these
canoes, whom they are all obliged to obey; and is, or at least is in-
tended to be, a person of superior experience, for which he is proportion-
ably paid.
In these canoes, thus loaded, they em Dark at the north side of the
portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very inconsiderable; and after
about two miles of a westerly course, is obstructed by the Partridge
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 367
Portage, six hundred paces long. In the spring this makes a consider-
able fall, when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock of one hun-
dred and twenty feet From thence the river continues to be shallow,
and requires great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe from being
injured by sharp rocks, for a distance of three miles and an half to
the Prairie or Meadow, when half the lading is taken out and carried
by part of the crew, while two of them are conducting the canoe
among the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carreboeuf Portage, three
miles and an half more, when they unload and come back two miles,
and embark what was left for the other hands to carry, which they
also land with the former; all of which is carried six hundred and
eighty paces, and the canoe led up against the rapid. From hence the
water is better calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a winding
course to the north of west three miles to the Outard Portage, over
which the canoe, and everything in her, is carried, for two thousand
four hundred paces. At the further end is a very high hill to descend,
over which hangs a rock upwards of seven hundred feet high. Then
succeeds the Outard Lake, about six miles long, lying in a northwest
course, and about two miles wide in the broadest part. After passing
a very small rivulet, they come to the Elk Portage, over which the
canoe and lading are again carried one thousand one hundred and
twenty paces; when they enter the lake of the same name, which is an
handsome piece of water, running northwest about four miles, and not
more than one mile and an half wide. Here is a most excellent fish-
ery for white fish, which are exquisite. They then land at the Portage
de Cerise, over which, and in the face of a considerable hill, the canoe
and cargo are again transported for one thousand and fifty paces.
This is only separated from the second Portage de Cerise by a mud
pond (where there is plenty of water lilies), of a quarter of a mile in
length; and this is again separated by a similar pond from the last
Portage de Cerise, which is four hundred and ten paces. Here the
same operation is to be performed for three hundred and eighty paces.
They next enter on the Mountain Lake, running northwest by west,
six miles long, and about two miles in its greatest breadth. In the
centre of this lake, and to the right, is the Old Road, by which I never
passed; but an adequate notion may be formed of it from the road 1
am going to describe, and which is universally preferred. This is first,
the small new portage over which everything is carried for six hundred
and twenty-six paces, over hills and gullies; the whole is then em-
barked on a narrow line of water that meanders southwest about two
miles and an half. It is necessary to unload here, for the length of
the canoe, and then proceed west half a mile to the new Grand Portage,
which is three thousand one hundred paces in length, and over very
rough ground, which requires the utmost exertions of the men, and fre-
quently lames them: from hence they approach the Rose Lake, the
portage of that name being opposite to the junction of the road from
the Mountain Lake. They then embark on the Rose Lake, about one
mile from the east end of it, and steer west by south, in an oblique
in. — 7
368 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
course, across it two miles; then west-northwest passing the Petite
Perche to the Marten Portage, three miles
Over against this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the south side,
called Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long, and separated
from the Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty paces, by
a mud pond covered with white lilies. From hence the course is on
the lake of the same name, west-southwest three miles to the height of
land, where the waters of the Dove or Pigeon River terminate, and
which is one of the sources of the great St. Lawrence in this direc-
tion. Having carried the canoe and lading over it, six hundred and
seventy-nine paces, they embark on the lake of Hauteur de Terre,
which is in the shape of a horse-shoe. (The route which we have been
traveling hitherto leads along the high rocky land or bank of Lake
Superior on the left. The face of the country offers a wild scene of
huge hills and rocks, separated by stony valleys, lakes, and ponds.
Wherever there is the least soil, it is well covered with trees.) The
lake is entered near the curve, and left at the extremity of the west-
ern limb, through a very shallow channel, where the canoe passes, half
loaded, for thirty paces with the current, which leads through the suc-
ceeding lakes and rivers, and disembogues itself by the river Nelson
into Hudson's Bay. The first of these is Lac de pierres & fusil, running
west-southwest, seven miles long and two wide, and, making an angle
at northwest one mile more, becomes a river for half a mile, tumbling
over a rock and forming a fall and portage, called the Escalier, of fifty-
five paces ; but from hence it is neither lake or river, but possesses the
character of both, and ends between large rocks, which cause a current
or rapid, falling into a lake-pond for about two miles and an half, west-
northwest, to the portage of the Cheval du Bois. Here the canoe and
contents are carried three hundred and eighty paces, between rocks;
and within a quarter of a mile is the Portage des Gros Pins, which is
six hundred and forty paces over an high ridge. The opposite side of
it is washed by a small lake three miles round; and the course is
through the east end or side of it, three quarters of a mile northeast,
where there is a rapid. An irregular, meandering channel, between
rocky banks, then succeeds for seven miles and an half to the Mara-
boeuf Lake, which extends north four miles, and is three quarters of
a mile wide, terminating by a rapid and decharge, of one hundred and
eighty paces, the rock of Saginaga being in sight, which causes a fall
of about seven feet, and a portage of fifty-five paces.
Lake Saginaga takes its name from its numerous islands, its great-
est length from east to west is about fourteen miles, with very irregu-
lar inlets. It is nowhere more than three miles, wide, and terminates
at the small portage of La Roche, of forty-three paces, From there is
a rocky, stony passage of one mile, to Prairie Portage, which is very
improperly named, as there is no ground about it that answers to that
description, except a small spot at the embarking place at the west
end: to the east is an entire bog; and it is with great difficulty that
the lading can be landed upon stages, formed by driving piles into the
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 369
mud and spreading branches of trees over them. The portage rises
on a stony ridge, over which the canoe and cargo must be carried for
six hundred and eleven paces. This is succeeded by an embarkation on
a small bay, where the bottom is the same as has been described in the
west end of Rose Lake, and it is with great difficulty that a laden
canoe is worked over it, but it does not comprehend more than a dis-
tance of two hundred yards. From hence the progress continues
through irregular channels, bounded by rocks, in a westerly course for
about five miles, to the little Portage des Couteaux, of one hundred
and sixty-five paces, and the Lac des Couteaux, running about south-
west by west twelve miles, and from a quarter to two miles wide. A
deep bay runs east three miles from the west, where it is discharged by
a rapid river, and after running two miles west it again becomes still
water. In this river are two carrying places, the one fifteen, and the other
one hundred and ninety paces. From this to the Portage des Carpes is
one mile northwest, leaving a narrow lake on the east that runs parallel
with the Lake des Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carrying-
place, which is used when the water in the river last mentioned is too
low. The Portage des Carpes is three hundred and ninety paces, from
whence the water spreads irregularly between rocks, five miles north-
west and southeast to the Portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one
hundred and eighty paces. Then follows the lake of that name, but
I think improperly so called, as the natives name it the Lake Pascau
Minac Sagaigan, or Dry Berries.
Before the small pox ravaged this country, and completed what
the Nodowasis in their warfare had gone far to accomplish,' the de-
struction of its inhabitants, the population was very numerous; this
was also a favorite part, where they made their canoes, &c., the lake
abounding in fish, the country round it being plentifully supplied with
various kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the boundaries
of the water, covered with a variety of berries.
When the French were in possession of this country, they had sev-
eral trading establishments on the islands and banks of this lake. Since
that period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin
nation, could hardly find subsistence; game having become so scarce
that they depended principally for food upon fish, and wild rice which
grows spontaneously in these parts.
This lake is irregular in its form, and its utmost extent from east
to west is fifteen miles; a point of land, called Point au Pin, jutting
into it, divides it in two parts: it then makes a second angle at the
west end, to the lesser Portage de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in
length. This channel is not wide, and is intercepted by several rapids
in the course of a mile; it runs west-northwest to the Portage des Pins,
over which the canoe and lading is again carried four hundred paces.
From hence the channel is also intercepted by very dangerous rapids
for two miles westerly, to the point of Portage du Bois, which is two
hundred and eighty paces. Then succeeds the portage of Lake Croche
one mile more, where the carrying-place is eighty paces, and is followed
370 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
by an embarkation on that lake, which takes its name from its figure.
It extends eighteen miles, in a meandering form, and in a westerly di-
rection; it is in general very narrow, and at about two-thirds of its
length becomes very contracted, with a strong current.
Within three miles of the last portage is a remarkable rock, with
a smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over
the water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows
have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the
Nodowasis or Sioux, who had done much mischief in this country, and
left there these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that,
notwithstanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inaccessible to
their enemies.
Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage du Rideau, four hundred
paces long, and derives its name from the appearance of the water,
falling over a rock of upwards of thirty feet. Several rapids succeed,
with intervals of still water, for about three miles to the Flacon port-
age, which is very difficult, is four hundred paces long, and leads to the
Lake of La Croix, so named from its shape. It runs about northwest
eighteen miles to the Beaver Dam, and then sinks into a deep bay
nearly east. The course to the portage is west by north for sixteen
miles more from the Beaver Dam; and into the east bay is a road
which was frequented by the French, and followed through lakes and
rivers until they came to Lake Superior by the river Caministiquia,
thirty miles east of the Grand Portage.
Portage La Croix is six hundred paces long; to the next portage
is a quarter of a mile, and its length is forty paces; the river winding
four miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs six or seven miles north-
northwest, and by a narrow strait communicates with Lake Namaycan,
wliich takes its name from a particular place at the foot of a fall,
where the natives spear sturgeon. Its course is about north-northwest
and south-southeast, with a bay running east, that gives it the form
of a triangle; its length is about sixteen miles to the Nouvelle Portage.
The discharge of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage
one hundred and eighty paces, to which succeeds a very small river,
from whence there is but a short distance to the next Nouvelle Portage,
three hundred and twenty paces long. It is there necessary to embark
on a swamp or overflowed country, where wild rice grows in great
abundance. There is a channel or small river in the centre of this
swamp, which is kept with difficulty, and runs south and north one
mile and a half, with deepening water. The course continues north-
northwest one mile to the Chaudiere Portage, which is caused by the
discharge of the waters running on the left of the road from Lake
Naymaycan, which used to be the common route, but that which I have
described is the safest as well as shortest. From hence there is some
current though the water is wide spread, and its course about north
by west three miles and a half to the Lake de la Plnie, which lies
nearly east and west; from thence about fifteen miles is a narrow
strait that divides the land into two unequal parts, from whence to its
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 371
discharge is a distance of twenty-four miles. There is a deep bay run-
ning northwest on the right, that is not included, and is remarkable
for furnishing the natives with a kind of soft, red stone, of which they
make their pipes; it also affords an excellent fishery, both in the sum-
mer and winter; and from it is an easy, safe, and short road to the
Lake du Bois (which I shall mention presently), for the Indians to pass
in their small canoes, through a small lake and on a small river, whose
banks furnish abundance of wild rice. The discharge of this lake is
called Lake de la Pluie River, at whose entrance there is a rapid, be-
low which is a fine bay, where there had been an extensive picketed
fort and building when possessed by the French: the site of it" is at
present a beautiful meadow, surrounded with groves of oaks. From
hence there is a strong current for two miles, where the water falls
over a rock twenty feet, and, from the consequent turbulence of the
water, the carrying-place, which is three hundred and twenty paces
long, derives the name of Chaudiere. Two miles onward is the p'resent
trading establishment, situated on an high bank on the north side of
the river in 48° 37' north latitude.
Here the people from Montreal come to meet those from the Atha-
basca country, as has been already described, and exchange lading
with them. This is the residence of the first chief, or Sachem, of all
the Algonquin tribes inhabiting the different parts of this country. He
is by distinction called Nectam, which implies personal pre-eminence.
Here also the elders meet in council to treat of peace or war.
This is one of the finest rivers in the Northwest, and runs a course
west and east one hundred and twenty computed miles; but in taking
its course and distance minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks are
covered with a rich soil, particularly to the north, which, in many parts,
are clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the pine, and
the cedar. The southern bank is not so elevated, and displays the
maple, the white birch, and the cedar, with the spruce, and alder, and
various underwood. Its waters abound in fish, particularly the stur-
geon, which the natives both spear and take with drag-nets. But not-
withstanding the promise of this soil, the Indians do not attend to its
cultivation, though they are not ignorant of the common process, and
are fond of the Indian corn, when they can get it from us
We now proceed to mention the Lake du Bois, into which this river
discharges itself in latitude 49. north, and was formerly famous for the
richness of its banks and waters, which abounded with whatever was
necessary to a savage life. The French had several settlements in and
about it; but it might be almost concluded that some fatal circum-
stance had destroyed the game, as war and the small pox had dimin-
I ished the inhabitants, it having been very unproductive in animals
; since the British subjects have been engaged in travelling through it;
though it now appears to be recovering its pristine state. The few
Indians who inhabit it might live very comfortably, if they were not
so immoderately fond of spirituous liquors
372 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
The Lake du Bois is, as far as I could learn, nearly round, and the
canoe course through the centre of it among a cluster of islands, some
of which are so extensive that they may be taken for the main land.
The reduced course would be nearly south and north. But following
the navigating course, I make the distance seventy-five miles, though
in a direct line it would fall very short of that length. At about two-
thirds of it there is a small carrying-place, when the water is low. The
carrying-place out of the lake is on an island, and named Portage du
Rat, in latitude 49° 37' north and longitude 94° 15' west, and is about
fifty paces long
THE BIRCH BARK CANOE.
The history of the fur trade should not be closed without
a respectful reference to the birch canoe, and description of
this serviceable means of conveyance, by which that early
commerce was carried on for over two hundred years. For
this purpose I give some extracts from the writings of persons
who all their lives were engaged in this trade.
Chief Factor Archibald McDonald, who accompanied Sir
George Simpson in his voyage from York Factory on Hudson
bay to the Pacific, in 1828, kept the minutes of this expedi-
tion. They were edited and published by Malcolm McLeod in
1872. Speaking of the "light canoe," on page 41, McLeod
says:
Light canoes were specially made and adapted for speediest travel.
I saw those, the very ones spoken of, at Norway House, on their pas-
sage up. The Governor's was the most beautiful thing of the kind I
ever saw; beautiful in its "lines" of faultless fineness, and in its form
and every feature; the bow, a magnificent curve of bark, gaudily but
tastefully painted, that would have made a Roman rostrum of old
hide its diminished head. The paddles, painted red with vermilion,
were made to match, and the whole thing in its kind was of faultless
grace and beauty— beauty in the sense of graceful and perfect fitness
to its end.
This class of canoes is [or rather was, for I am speaking of times
now somewhat old] generally known under the name of "North
Canoes," from the fact that on the arrival of the largest kind of canoes,
used in the trade, viz., those used to be dispatched [and that until very
lately] from Lachine, on first open water, to Fort William, Lake Su-
perior, and which were called "Canots du Maitre" had to be exchanged,
or left behind for smaller craft, half the size, and such as could be
portaged from that point upwards. The Canot du M. [Canoe of the
Master, as we would call it in English] was of six fathoms, measured
within, and the C. du Nord about four, more or less. The ordinary
crew for the former was sixteen or eighteen, and for the latter eight
THE DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 873
or nine. The larger could stand any storm in Lakes Huron and Su-
perior, but it was ever the habit of voyage to avoid the encounter as
much as possible. Their ordinary load was one hundred and twenty
pieces of ninety pounds each, say five tons, with men, and passengers'
baggage. They always carried passengers, say from four to eight or
even more in case of children. I never heard of such a canoe being
wrecked, or upset, or swamped; they swam like ducks. If overtaken,
as was often the case, in a long traverse from point to point, or across
large bays in the big lakes, the heavy "parla" [red canvas oil cloth]
used to be thrown over the goods as a storm deck, and then skilled
strength and pluck, with the trusty bark, did the work.
•
I add also a description given by Mr. Hopkins, the Secre-
tary of Sir George Simpson, of the start of Sir George from
Lachine on his voyage around the world in 1841-2. He says :
By nine o'clock our two canoes were floating in front of the house
in the Lachine canal, constructed to avoid the famous rapids of St.
Louis. The crews, thirteen men to the one vessel, and fourteen to the
other, consisted partly of Canadians, but principally of Iroquois, from
the opposite village of Kaughnawaga, the whole being under the charge
of my old and faithful follower, Morin. ....
The canoes, those tiny vehicles' of an amphibious navigation, are
constructed in the following manner: The outside is formed of the
thick and tough bark of the birch, the sheets being sewed together with
the root of the pine tree split into threads, and the seams being gummed
to make them air tight, The gunwales are of pine or cedar, of about
three inches square; and in their lower edges are inserted the ribs,
made of thin pieces of wood bent to a semicircle. Between the ribs
and the bark is a coating of lathing, which, besides warding off in-
ternal injury from the fragile covering, serves to impart a firmness to
the vessel. These canoes are generally about thirty-five feet from
stem to stern; and they are five feet wide in the centre, gradually
tapering to a point at each end, where they are raised about a foot.
When loaded, they draw scarcely eighteen inches of water; and they
weigh between three hundred and four hundred pounds.
Realizing that the days of this amphibious navigation have
passed from the limits of our state, I am tempted to make an-
other quotation from this narrative of Sir Geo. Simpson's jour-
ney fifty years ago (page 27):
Before bidding good-by to our old friend the Ottawa, let me here
offer a description of a day's march, as a general specimen of the
whole journey. To begin with the most important part of our pro-
ceedings, the business of encamping for a brief night, we selected,
about sundown, some dry and tolerably clear spot; and immediately
on landing, the sound of the axe would be ringing through the wood,
as the men were felling whole trees for our fires, and preparing, if
374 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
necessary, a space for our tents. In less than ten minutes our three
lodges would be pitched, each with such a blaze in front as virtually
imparted a new sense of enjoyment to all the young campaigners,
while through the crackling flames might be seen the requisite number
of pots and kettles for our supper. Our beds were next laid, consist-
ing of an" oilcloth spread on the bare earth, with three blankets and a
pillow, and, when occasion demanded, with cloaks and great-coats at
discretion; and whether the wind howled or rain poured, our pavilions
of canvas formed a safe barrier against the weather. While part of
our crews, comprising all the landsmen, were doing duty as stokers,
and cooks, and architects, and chambermaids, the more experienced
voyageurs, after unloading the canoes, had drawn them on the beach
with their bottoms upwards, to inspect, and, if needful, to renovate the
stitching and the gumming; and as the little vessels were made to
incline on one side to windward, each with a roaring fire to leeward,
the crews, every man in his own single blanket, managed to set wind,
and rain, and cold at defiance, almost as effectually as ourselves.
Weather permitting, our slumbers would be broken about one in the
morning by the cry of "Leve! level lever In five minutes, woe to the
inmates that were slow in dressing, the tents were tumbling about our
ears; and within half an hour the camp would be raised, the canoes
laden, and the paddles keeping time to some merry old song. About
eight o'clock, a convenient place would be selected for breakfast, about
three-quarters of an hour being allotted for the multifarious operations
of unpacking and repacking the equipage, laying and removing the
cloth, boiling and frying, eating and drinking; and, while the prelimi-
naries were arranging, the hardier among us would wash and shave,
each person carrying soap and towel in his pocket, and finding a mir-
ror in the same sandy or rocky basin that held the water. About two
in the afternoon we usually put ashore for dinner; and as this meal
needed no fire, or at least got none, it was not allowed to occupy more
than twenty minutes or half an hour. Such was the routine of our
journey, the day, generally speaking, being divided into six hours of
rest and eighteen of labor. This almost incredible toil the voyageurs
bore without a murmur, and, almost invariably, with such an hilarity
of spirit as few other men could sustain for a single forenoon.
But the quality of the work, even more decidedly than the quantity,
requires operatives of iron mould. In smooth water the paddle is plied
with twice the rapidity of the oar, taxing both arms and lungs to the
utmost extent; amid shallows the canoe is literally dragged by the
men wading to their knees or to their loins, while each poor fellow, after
replacing his drier half in his seat, laughingly shakes the heaviest of
the wet from his legs over the gunwale, before he again gives them
an inside berth; in rapids, the towing line has to be hauled along over
rocks and stumps, through swamps and thickets, excepting that when
the ground is utterly impracticable, poles are substituted, and occasion-
ally, also, the bushes on the shore. Again on the portages, where the
breaks are of all imaginable kinds and degrees of badness, the canoes
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 375
and their cargoes are never carried across in less than two or three
trips, the little vessels alone monopolizing, on the first turn, the more
expert half of their respective crews. Of the baggage, each man has
to carry at least two pieces, estimated at a hundred and eighty pounds
avoirdupois, which he suspends in slings of leather placed across the
forehead, so that he has his hands free to clear the way among the
branches of the standing trees, and over the prostrate trunks. But, in
addition to the separate labors of the land and the water, the poor
fellows have to endure a combination of both sorts of hardship at least
three or four times every day. The canoes can seldom approach near
enough to enable the passengers to step ashore from the gunwale; and
no sooner is a halt made than the men are in the water to ferry us to
dry ground on their backs. In this unique part of their duty they seem
to take pride; and a little fellow often tries to get possession of the
heaviest customer in the party, considerably exceeding, as has often
been the case in my experience, the standard aforesaid, of two pieces
of baggage.
Sir George Simpson, in his testimony before the select Com-
mittee of Parliament in 1857, says he had passed over the route
from Fort William or Grand Portage to Winnipeg forty times.
These trips were made in the manner related in Mr. Hopkins'
description.
Longfellow's "Song of Hiawatha," in its seventh canto, de-
scribes the materials of which the birch canoe is constructed;
and the illustrated edition of this poem issued in 1891 by
Houghton, Mifflin & Co. has a good photogravure of the process
of its building by Indians in the forest.
THE COMMERCE OF CIVILIZATION.
The concluding part of this paper will be devoted to Com-
merce in Minnesota, on the Mississippi river and its tributa-
ries, to the year 1862, and will contain all that I have been
able to gather from all sources, including the files of newspa-
pers of Galena, 111., the Wisconsin Historical Society's files,
and the files of the Minnesota Historical Society; to which I
have added my own personal recollections of the history.
Scharf's "History of St. Louis City and County," and Capt.
E. W. Gould's "History of River Navigation," contain a great
number of incidents relating to the early days on the Mis-
sissippi. But I must say that I was very much disappointed
in my expectation of finding data that would be of service in
my work among the files of newspapers and other printed au-
thority; there is very little.
376 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
The keel-boat service is almost entirely confined to trans-
portation of troops and supplies for the fort; and the Indian
Agent, Major Forsyth, gives us (in this Society's Historical
Collections, volume 3, pages 139-167) his journal of his voyage
from St. Louis to St Peter's in 1819. Soon thereafter comes
the age of steam.
ARRIVALS OF STEAMBOATS AT FORT SNELLING, 1823-1839.
For the purpose of making the list of steamboat arrivals a8
full and complete as possible at this time, I am induced to copy
from the Minnesota Historical Collections, volume 2. In its
pages 102-142, Rev. E. D. Neill, in his "Occurrences in and
around Fort Snelling, from 1819 to 1840," gives the following
names and dates of steamboat arrivals at that place, which I
have here collected together from his narrative:
1823-1826.
Steamboat Virginia, Capt. Crawford, May 10th, 1823. She was one
hundred and eighteen feet long and twenty-two feet wide. She waa
received with a salute from the fort. Among her passengers were
Major Biddle, Lieut. Russell, Taliaferro, the Indian Agent, and Bel-
trami, an Italian refugee.
The steamboat Rufus Putnam, Capt. David G. Bates in command,
reached the fort April 5th, 1825. Four weeks later she made a second
trip with goods for the Columbia Fur Company, and proceeded to
Land's End, their trading post on the Minnesota river.
The following is a list of the steamboats that had arrived at Fort
Snelling up to May 26th, 1826, the exact dates being known for only
three:*
1. Virginia, May 10th, 1823. 9. Josephine.
2. Neiville. 10. Fulton.
3. Putnam, April 2nd, 1825. 11. Red Rover.
4. Mandan. 12. Black Rover.
5. Indiana, 13. Warrior.
6. Lawrence, May 2nd, 1826. 14. Enterprise,
7. Sciota. 15. Volant.
8. Eclipse.
1832.
Steamboat Versailles, May 12th.
Enterprise, June 27th.
1835.
The steamboat Warrior, built and commanded by Capt. Throck-
morton, arrived June 24th with supplies and a pleasure party. Among:
*Note.— There are evidently mistakes in this list of arrivals before May
26th, 1826.
The Red Rover made her appearance in the Galena trade in 1830, com-
manded by Capt. Joseph Throckmorton. He also built the Warrior in 1832,
and was in command and participated in the Battle of Bad Axe in that year.
The steamboat Josephine, Capt. J. Clark, was in the Galena and St.
Louis trade in 1829.
Steamboat Missouri Fulton; Capt. Culver was captain of this boat in
1828.
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 377
the passengers were Capt. Day and Lieut. Beech, of the army, Catlin,
the artist, and wife, General George W. Jones, J. Farnsworth, Mrs. Fe-
lix St. Vrain, Misses Farnsworth, Crow, Johnson, and others. On July
16th the Warrior again arrived at the fort.
1836.
The Missouri Fulton arrived on May 8th. [Mr. Neill does not give
the name of her captain. I venture to add the name of Capt. Orren
Smith. He commanded her for a time.]
Steamboat Frontier, Capt. D. S. Harris, May 29th.
Steamboat Palmyra, Capt. Cole, June 1st, with some thirty ladies
and gentlemen passengers, a pleasure party.
Steamboat St. Peter's, Capt. J. Throckmorton, July 2d. Among the
passengers were Nicollet, coming to begin his exploration of the North-
west, and several ladies from St. Louis on a pleasure tour.
On October 9th, a small steamboat arrived with stores for the Gov-
ernment.
1837.
The steamboat Rolla arrived November 10th, bringing back the Sioux
delegation who had visited Washington and made a treaty there Sep-
tember 29th, by which the valley of the St. Croix was opened to white
immigration.
1838.
Steamboat Burlington, Capt. J. Throckmorton, May 25th; and again
June 13th.
Steamboat Brazil, Capt. Orren Smith, June 15th, two boats being at
the fort at the same time. The Burlington made three trips this season.
The steamboat Ariel arrived June 20th.
The steamboat Burlington completed her third trip on June 28th,
bringing 146 troops.
The steamboat Palmyra, Capt. Middleton, arrived July 15th, with
official notice of the ratification of the Sioux treaty,— bringing also ma-
chinery for the St. Croix mill, and a millwright, Calvin Tuttle, with
other men, to build it.
Steamboat Ariel, August 27th, and again September 29th.
Steamboat Gipsy, with Chippewa goods, October 21st.
1839.
Steamboat Ariel, Capt. Lyon, April 14th.
Steamboat Gipsy, Capt. Grey, May 2nd.
Steamboat Fayette, May llth.
Steamboat Glaucus, Capt. G. W. Atchison, May 21st, and again June
5th.
Steamboat Pennsylvania, Capt. Stone, June 1st.
The steamboat Ariel arrived June 6th; and also made three later
trips, arriving June 26th, July 17th, and August 15th.
Steamboat Knickerbocker, June 25th.
Steamboat Malta, Capt. J. Throckmorton, July 22d.
The steamboat Pike, with soldiers, arrived September 9th and again
September 17th.
378 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
There is no authority given for this record ; but the annals
were prepared by Kev. E. D. Neill, and he must have had some
authority for the record. I personally became well acquainted
with nearly all the captains above named, and with all the
boats from the summer of 1839. Major Taliaferro resigned
his office in January, 1840; and I presume the above record
is from his papers.
RECORDS FROM GALENA NEWSPAPERS, 1828-1848.
The Miners' Journal of Galena, in 1828, mentions the fol-
lowing steamboats: Indiana, Capt. Fay; Red Rover, Capt.
J. Throckmorton; Josephine, Capt. Clark; and Missouri Ful-
ton, Capt. Culver. In 1829 it mentions the Josephine, Capt.
Clark; Red Rover, Capt. Throckmorton ; and the Galena, Capt.
David G. Bates. One steamboat was advertised for Fort Snell-
ing, the Lady Washington, Capt. Shellcross. The editor appar-
ently did not think it worth while to notice the arrivals of
boats, as everyone knew well of their arrival. The paper was
a weekly, and it did not appear necessary to mention them. Its
publication was suspended during the Black Hawk war.
The Galena Advertiser, in the fall of 1835, noticed the close
of navigation as occurring on November 7th; and said that
the Warrior and Galena had left for Pittsburgh. From this
newspaper, chiefly, I have obtained the following imperfect
records for the next twelve years :
1836.
The Advertiser mentions the opening of navigation April
9th, and says that the steamboat Olive Branch, Capt. Strother,
the Wisconsin, Capt. Flaherty, the Dubuque, Cavalier, War-
rior, and Galena, had left for St. Louis.
The Missouri Fulton, Capt. O. Smith, and the new steam-
boat Frontier, Capt. D. S. Harris, one of the boats built by
D. S. & R. S. Harris, gave an excursion trip to the people of
Galena and Dubuque.
1837.
The steamboat Smelter, Capt. D. S. Harris, with R. S. Har-
ris, engineer, was one of the first boats built with state rooms
for the upper Mississippi river. She was advertised for St.
Peters about June 1st; the Pavillion, Capt. Lafferty, about
the 20th; the Burlington, for June 17th; and the Irene, Rolla,
and Fulton, later. The Rolla was mentioned as being in Ga-
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 379
lena with. Major Taliaferro and his Indian delegation on their
return from Washington to St. Peter's.*
The following list of boats was mentioned as having been
in the trade to and from Galena in 1837: Palmyra, Dubuque,
Gipsy, Pavillion, Adventurer, Emerald, Missouri-Fulton, En-
voy, Wyoming, Olive Branch, Science, Ariel, Cavalier, Heroine,
Galena, Smelter, Lady Marshall, Irene, Alphia, Huntress,
Kolla, Caledonia, and Burlington. Boats lost during the sea-
son were the Dubuque, Rolla, Emerald, and Heroine;
1838.
The steamboat Brazil, Capt. Orren Smith, arrived in Ga-
lena April 4th. The Gipsy was advertised for St. Peter's;
and the Ariel arrived from St. Peter's. The Pizarro, Capt. B.
S. Harris, a new boat 133 feet long and 20 feet beam, 144 tons,
arrived.
1839.
The Glaucus, Rosalie and Pizarro were advertised for the
Galena and St. Louis trade. The steamboat Brazil was adver-
tised for a pleasure trip to St. Peter's July 21st; and the
steamboat Pike was on her way to St. Peter's with troops
September 3d.
1840.
The steamboats Elba, lone, Quincy, and Pike, are men-
tioned. The Annie was noted as on her way to St. Peter's
April 1st; also the Omega, The following boats were adver-
tised to make pleasure trips to St. Peter's during the summer,
viz.: Loyal Hanna, Malta, Valley Forge, lone, and Brazil.
The Indian Queen, Capt. Saltmarsh, was in the trade this
season.
1841.
The following steamboats were advertised or otherwise
mentioned: the Otter, Capt. Harris; Sarah Ann, Capt. Laf-
ferty; Chippewa, Capt. Griffith; Illinois, Capt. McAllister;
Muscoda, Capt. J. H. Lusk; and Rock River, Capt. Agostin
Haraszthy. This last named captain was a Hungarian count
and exile.
The steamboat Brazil was sunk on the Rock Island chain,
in the upper rapids, being a total loss.
*Thls name was applied to the trading post on the site of the present
village of Mendota, at the southeast side of the mouth of St. Peter's (Min-
nesota) river, opposite to Fort Snelling.
380 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
1842.
The New Brazil, Capt. O. Smith, arrived September 24th.
She was 160 feet long, and 23 feet beam. The following
boats were in the trade this year: Amaranth, Capt. G. W.
Atchison; Osprey, Capt. N. W. Parker; lone, Capt. Le Boy
Dodge; Ohio, Capt. Mark Atchison; Iowa, Capt. D. B. More-
house; and the General Brooke, Capt. Throckmorton. The
last returned from a trip to St. Peter's May 26th. The Otter,
Capt. Harris, and the Rock River, ran between Galena and St.
Peter's during the season.
1843.
The steamer Chippewa came down from St. Peter's May 2d;
the New Brazil June 5th ; and the General Brooke, Jasper, and
Otter always ran to St. Peter's during the season. There must
have been other boats, but I have not been able to find trace of
them. These boats ran to St. Peter's seven trips in the sea-
son.
* 1844.
The boats advertised for St. Peter's in 1844 were the Hiber-
nia, Lewis F. Lynn, Capt. S. M. Kennet; Lynx, Capt. W. H.
Hooper; Mendota, Capt. Robert A. Riley; and St. Croix, Capt
Hiram Bersie. The Otter, Capt. Harris, was run in the Galena
and St. Peter's trade during the season; also the Rock River,
Capt. Agostin Haraszthy.
1845.
The following steamboats plied from Galena on the upper
part of the river: Uncle Tobey, Capt. Cole; Lynx, Capt. John
Atchison; War Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris; St. Croix, Capt.
Hiram Bersie; Iowa, Capt. D. B. Morehouse; Cecilia, Capt
Throckmorton; and St. Anthony, Capt. A. C. Montfort.
1846.
During this year I find mention of the Atlas, Capt. Robert
A. Riley; Prairie Bird, Capt Nick Wall; War Eagle, Capt
D. S. Harris; Falcon, Capt. Le Grand Morehouse; Cora, Capt.
Throckmorton ; Argo, Capt. Kennedy Lodwick ; Monona, Capt
E. H. Gleim; Raritan, Capt. Rogers; and the Otter, Capt Har-
ris. During the season there were twenty-four arrivals in
Galena.
1847.
The Argo, Capt. M. W. Lodwick, advertised as a regular
packet for the season from Galena to St. Peter's, Fort Snelling,
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 381
and Stillwater. I was clerk on this boat from June 8th until
she sunk in the fall.
Other steamboats running this year were the War Eagle,
Capt. D. S. Harris; Dubuque, Capt. E. H. Beebe; Time and
Tide, Capt. E. W. Gould; Lynx, Capt. John Atchison; Senator,
Capt. McCoy; and the Bon Accord, Capt. H. Bersie. These
six boats were advertised from St. Louis to St. Peter's and
Fort Snelling.
1848.
The Dr. Franklin, Capt. M. W. Lodwick, was a Galena and
St. Paul packet. This was the first boat of the Galena and
Minnesota Packet Company. Her owners were Campbell and
Smith, Henry Corwilh, H. L. Dousraam,, Brisbois & Eice, H. H.
Sibley, M. W. Lodwick, and R. Blakeley. The other boats in
the trade were the Highland Mary, Capt. John Atchison; Sen-
ator, Capt. D. S. Harris; Alex. Hamilton, Capt. W. H. Hooper;
and Anthony Wayne, Capt. Dan Able. I am almost certain
that Capt. ThroQkmorton ran the Cora in the trade some part
of the season ; and I think there were others that I have not
been able to trace.
RIVALRY BEGUN IN 1848.
This season commenced a contest that made the steamboat
business lively, if not profitable, between Galena and St. Paul,
for several years. The Harris brothers had sold the Otter,
and Capt. D. S. Harris was running the War Eagle to St. Louis,
but claimed to be in the trade from Galena to St. Paul. In
the winter after the Argo was sunk (in the fall of 1847), Capt.
M. W. Lodwick and the present writer went around to the
Ohio and bought the Dr. Franklin, a new and very nice boat,
to take the place of the Argo between Galena and St. Paul.
The Harris brothers sold the War Eagle and bought the Sen-
ator, in hopes that they would have the best boat in the trade;
but when the Dr. Franklin arrived they found they had reck-
oned without their host, and the Senator was run from St. Louis
to St. Paul until the fall trade commenced. They turned in from
Galena to St. Paul and so continued to the close of the sea-
son, and quite an opposition grew up between the different
parties; but after consultation it was arranged that the Dr.
Franklin owners should buy the Senator, with the understand-
ing that the Harrises would go out of the trade and all feeling
would subside. During the winter, however, Congress passed
382 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
the bill to organize the Territory of Minnesota, which, of
course, changed the face of things very much. The future
prospect for steamboat trade was a little too much for the re-
tiring party, as appeared by D. S. Harris' going around to the
Ohio, where he bought the Dr. Franklin No. 2, which had been
built by Capt. John McClure, of whom we had bought the
"Old Doctor," as our boat was now called. The No. 2 was the
better boat; but the "Old Doctor" had made too many friends
during the season to be an easy party to drive.
Capt. Orren Smith, who was a brother-in-law of D. S. Har-
ris, had taken charge of the Senator, and the No. 2 seemed to-
delight in annoying the Senator during the season of 1849.
But Capt. Smith went around to the Ohio, and in the spring
of 1850 returned with the Nominee, which was so much faster
than the No. 2 that she went into the St. Louis trade. The
situation had become interesting, as the emigration constantly
increased to Minnesota and Wisconsin. The Harrises had
been raised in Galena and were always popular, and through
sympathy their friends naturally sided with them. D. S. and
R. S. Harris had begun steamboating as soon as Smith Har-
ris was old enough to turn a wheel as pilot, and Scribe to be
an engineer. Both these boys were with Capt. David G. Bates
on the steamboat Galena in 1829. They commenced building
steamboats in 1832, when they built the Jo Davis. They had
built afterward the Relief, Frontier, Smelter, Pizarro, Pre-
emption, and Otter, and they owned the War Eagle, when in-
1848 they felt that they were being driven off the river by a
powerful combination ; and the end was not yet.
INCIDENTS IN THE REMOVAL OF THE WINNEBAGOES.
My interest in the Packet Company has led me to forget
that there were other matters of historical character that be-
long to the year 1848. Our old acquaintances, the "Gens de
Mer" Winnebagoes, whom we found at the south end of Green
Bay in 1654-5, as related in the early part of this paper, again
claim our attention. After several changes of domicile, they
are again about to seek a new home in Minnesota on a new
reservation at Long Prairie. In the summer of 1848 their
agent, Gen. J. E. Fletcher, and the other assistants, with the
troops from Fort Atkinson, started on this arduous enterprise.
Among others interested in this change of base of the Winne-
bagoes, I remember H. M. Rice, David Olmsted, E. A. C.
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 383
Hatch, S. B. Lowry, John Haney, Jr., N. Myrick, Richard
Chute, George Culver, and, last but not least, their venerable
missionary, Rev. David Lowry, together with many other em-
ployees not now recollected.
The bands were divided; part came down the Turkey river
in their canoes, and part started by land with the teams of the
agent and the ponies of the Indians. The point of rendezvous
was at the Wabashaw prairie, where Winona now stands.
The tribulations of all parties in making this journey had
about exhausted all their physical strength, as well as the pa-
tience of all concerned; and when they were again joined at
the prairie, the Indians refused to move another foot. The
Indians had camped at the south end of the prairie in the tim-
ber, in order to have wood handy, and to have a shade over
their lodges. The agent, soldiers, and all other parties en-
gaged in this enterprise, made their camp on the highest point
of the prairie, south of the present town, where the writer first
made the acquaintance of the noted Winnebagoes. The
trouble continued to increase rather than to abate. The Win-
nebagoes had for many years hunted in the bottoms of the
Mississippi river to the east and south of them; and the new
move was leaving the last of their old hunting grounds.
After the agent had nearly despaired of success, the only
alternative left was to send to Capt. Eastman at Fort Snell-
ing for additional troops, which, with a six-pounder, were sent
under the command of Lieut. Hall, to see whether he could en-
courage the fellows to go. In canvassing the situation, Lieut.
Hall became suspicious that the chief, Wabasha, whose village
was just above the prairie upon the Rolling Stone creek, had in
some way encouraged the Winnebagoes not to go. He ar-
rested Wabasha and brought him on board the Dr. Franklin,
and chained him to one of the stanchions of the boat on the
boiler deck, evidently with the intention of frightening him;
but after a short time he thought better of it, and released
him. This was regarded as a great outrage to this proud chief,
and it was not regarded in favorable light by those having
charge of the Winnebagoes, who numbered over two thousand
souls, besides Wabasha's band; but it finally passed without
trouble. All the men in charge of the Indians were constantly
urging them to consent to the removal, and talks were almost
of daily occurrence, which would always end in Commis-
sary Lieut. J. H. McKenny's sending down to the camp more
in.— 8
384 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
flour, sugar, meat and coffee, realizing that when their stom-
achs were full they were more peaceable.
One morning the troops, agent, and all in charge, were as-
tounded to find the Indian camp deserted; not an Indian, dog
or pony was left. The canoes that had brought part of them
were gone as well. Everything in camp that could hunt was
started to find them. The Dr. Franklin was sent down the
river to overtake them if they had gone in that direction, and
I think it was three days before they were found. They had
taken their canoes and gone down the river to the mouth of
the Slough, and thence had gone over into Wisconsin and
were comfortably encamped on the islands and shores of the
river, but were nearly starved. They promised to return to
their camp the next day in their canoes. About ten o'clock
the next day those on watch saw them coming out of the head
of the Slough some three miles above the steamboat landing.
It was one of our beautiful summer mornings, with not a rip-
ple on the water; and when these two thousand men, women,
children, and dogs, passed down, floating without even using
a paddle, except to keep in the stream, all dressed in their best,
they presented such a picture as I have not seen equaled since.
They were disposed to show themselves at their best. Lieut.
McKenny met them at their camp with provisions, and the old
status quo was reestablished.
The chiefs had said in their talks that they were afraid that
the Sioux would not be willing to have them move into their
country or their vicinity, and that there would be trouble. In
order to remove this impression, it was proposed to have the
chiefs of the Sioux bands brought down to the camp to meet
them in council, to which they consented. The Dr. Franklin
was sent up to bring the chiefs from the upper villages for
that purpose. Those from Little Six village were brought to
St. Paul, and probably some from the villages above; and
there they were fitted out with entirely new suits of clothes
from head to foot, each one consisting of a blue frock coat,
leggins and moccasins, silk plug hat, white ruffled shirt, and a
small American flag for each chief. The Little Crow, Red
Wing, and Wabasha bands were all represented at this council.
On the day appointed for holding the council there was
another display of Indian pomp and ceremony, which those of
us unused to Indian ways were not prepared for; The council
was held at the camp of the agent on the prairie, and at the
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 385
hour appointed for the meeting of the council, the whole band
of the Winnebagoes was seen coming up from their camp
mounted upon their ponies and dressed in their best ; they ad-
vanced in deployed lines extending for many rods from the
center of line and led by their head chief Winneshiek, sup-
ported by other noted men of the band on the right and left.
As they approached the council ground, the -chiefs dismounted
from their horses and advanced to take their places in the
council prepared for them and their braves. After the chiefs
had been received with becoming dignity by the agent and the
Sioux chiefs, their braves closed up in a circle and took their
places within hearing distance of what should be said on this,
to them, very important occasion; and, as I know, a very
anxious and uneasy body of men were in the camp of the
agent and traders, as to the result of this council. It was too
great an occasion to be disposed of in a hurry. My recollection
is that it was several days before the Winnebagoes were will-
ing to agree to go; but even Indians tire of talking, and eat-
ing must perforce have an end. The council was closed with
a wedding, the Winnebagoes giving one of their beautiful
maidens to some noted brave of the Sioux whose name I have
forgotten. The presents that were given by the Winnebagoes
to the bride were said to have been quite considerable. The
women and children were carried on board our steamboat, the
Dr. Franklin, and its barge, as they were ready.
There was another incident that may as well be told here.
The Indians of the River bands of the Sioux had learned that
the Argo in 1847 had become the property of their friends and
traders, H. H. Sibley, H. L. Dousman, and Brisbois & Rice, and
she was always welcomed with great cordiality whenever she
landed at any of their villages. When she sunk in the fall
of 1847, they naturally felt that our loss was theirs. It became
known that we had bought the Dr. Franklin, called by them
the Great Medicine, before that steamboat arrived. When she
landed at Red Wing on her first trip, the traders sung out that
the Great Medicine was coming. This cry raised everyone
in the village, men, women, and children, and all rushed to the
bank of the river and onto the boat, shouting "How! how!
how!"
The Dr. Franklin had the first steam whistle that came up
the river. It was placed just on top of the boiler under the
cabin floor, and had an unearthly screech. After we had
386 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
landed the freight and I had finally got all the Indians ashore,
except the chief Waucota, who was going up to Mendota, they
all stood waiting to see her back out. Having on a pretty good
head of steam, the temptation to have a little sport was too
much for the engineer, Bill Myers. Just as he gave her a turn
back on her wheels, he pulled the cord of the whistle, which
gave a terrible screech, and instantly every Indian man, woman
and child jumped, shed their blankets, and rushed for the top
of the bank or some place to hide. As they did so all on the
boat shouted with laughter. This was too much for the poor
Indians; they had shown that they had been frightened, which
was a reflection on their courage, and they felt that we had
done it on purpose. The only possible way out of the dilemma
was to serve all the villages alike. Then they could not laugh
at one another, for all had been frightened. When we returned^
the old chief Waucota explained the matter to them and re-
stored their good humor again; but this story got out among
the bands of the Minnesota river, and they rather had the
laugh on those that had been frightened, until the summer of
1851, When the Dr. Franklin went up to Traverse des Sioux,
to the Indian Treaty of that year. The camp of the Indians
was upon the second rise or plateau, at some distance from the
bank of the river; and it was some little time before the young
Indians, and especially those from up the Minnesota, got down
to the bank. As they did so the Indians of the Mississippi
bands began to shout to me, and imitated the whistle, which
some of them could do very well. I at once took the hint, and
as I was standing with some of my lady passengers on the
hurricane deck, looking at the great village of lodges, I stepped
to the cord and gave the wild or Minnesota River boys a terri-
ble salute, which scared them even worse than those they had
made so much fun of. When I came down from the deck the
young Indians that had called to me came, with Major Forbes,
to thank me for the fright I had given the wild Indians, as they
called them, and said that they were even now and it was all
right.
THE TERRITORIAL PERIOD.
1849.
Some part of my record for 1848 should have been reserved
for this year, and I may be pardoned for having outrun the cur-
rent history, but will endeavor to follow the business of each
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 387
year under its proper head. The opening of navigation this
year was of especial interest. On March 3rd, 1849, Congress
had passed the act to organize the Territory of Minnesota,
which was an assurance that immigration would be largely
increased, and that law and order would be established; in
other words, the country had now passed from an Indian to a
civilized condition, a guarantee of progress.
The Galena and Minnesota Packet Company advertised
the Dr. Franklin, Capt. M. W. Lodwick, and the Senator, Capt.
Orren Smith, as regular packets from Galena to St. Paul for
the season ; and the Highland Mary, Capt. John Atchison, and
Dr. Franklin No. 2, Capt. D. S. Harris, for the St. Louis and
St. Paul trade. Sometime in the season, about September,
the Yankee, Capt. M. K. Harris, made her appearance in the
trade from Galena. I find mention of the steamboats Minne-
sota, R. A. Riley, and War Eagle, built at Pittsburgh for the
St. Louis and St. Paul trade, but am not aware that they ever
came into the river. There were other boats, no doubt, from
St. Louis; but I do not find trace of them.
Gov. Alex. Ramsey and wife came up to St. Paul on the
Dr. Franklin from Prairie du Chien the last week in May. I
find mention of the arrival of Mrs. Col. Snelling by the Dr.
Franklin on Oct. 25th, 1849. During this season our friends
of the Winnebago nation managed to get away from their reser-
vation and went down to the vicinity of La Crosse. The chol-
era broke out this summer and was bad on the lower river; but
St. Paul, so far as I remember, entirely escaped.
1850.
Navigation opened April 19th (the Highland Mary and the
Nominee arriving on the same day), and commenced with five
boats in the trade, namely, the Nominee, Capt. O. Smith; Dr.
Franklin, Capt. M. W. Lodwick; Yankee, Capt. M. K. Harris,
from Galena to St. Paul; Highland Mary, Capt. John Atchi-
son ; and Dr. Franklin No. 2, Capt. D. S. Harris. The Excel-
sior, Capt. James Ward, was advertised as a regular boat to
St. Louis for the season. The Lamartine made several trips.
The Highland Mary was withdrawn on the death of Capt. John
Atchison, who died of cholera. The Tiger, Capt. Maxwell,
made her appearance this season; she had the machinery of
the Otter. The Anthony Wayne should also be mentioned,
Capt. Dan Able. There were 2,100 barrels of cranberries
388 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
shipped from St. Paul tills year. J. C. Burbank commenced
his express business on the Nominee this season.
The Dr. Franklin No. 2, Capt. Harris, the Anthony Wayne,
Capt. Dan Able, and the Lamartine, went up to near the falls
of St. Anthony in the summer of 1850.
The Governor Ramsey commenced regular trips from St.
Anthony to St. Cloud this summer. This steamboat was built
by Capt. John Eollins. Her machinery was built in Bangor,
Maine, and was brought to the Territory by way of New Or-
leans.
The Anthony Wayne and Yankee made the first trips up
the Minnesota river this year.
Mr. H. M. Rice had contracted to return the Winnebagoes
to their reservation ; and the Dr. Franklin and Nominee gath-
ered them up on their regular trips.
1851.
The season opened earlier than usual, the Nominee being
the first boat, arriving April 4th. Capt. Smith was welcomed
cordially. The first arrival had been a noted occasion, being
the commencement of navigation. The following boats were
advertised for the season, as packets from Galena: Dr. Frank-
lin, Capt. M. W. Lodwick; Nominee, Capt. O. Smith; and the
Yankee, Capt. M. K. Harris. The Dr. Franklin No. 2, Capt. D.
S. Harris, and the Excelsior, Capt. J. Ward, were regular pack-
ets from St Louis. The Uncle Toby, Capt. Cole, made several
trips from St. Louis. The De Vernon, Robert Fulton, Minne-
sota, and Oswego were transient visitors.
The Indian treaty was made at Traverse des Sioux; and
the Dr. Franklin took a large party of ladies and gentlemen up
to the treaty grounds on July 21st.
Willoughby & Powers, and Patterson & Benson, ran stages
from St. Paul to St. Anthony during the summer. Willoughby
<fe Powers also ran stages to Stillwater this season.
1852.
Navigation opened in St. Paul April 16th. The Nominee,
Capt. Smith, was welcomed by the hearty shouts of nearly all
the men, women and children in town. This great outburst
of feeling was on account of the season's being twelve days
later than the year before; the patience of all was quite ex-
hausted by the delay. The Galena and St. Paul packets were
the Nominee, Capt. Orren Smith; Dr. Franklin, Capt. R.
§1
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 389
Blakeley; the Caleb Cape, until the new boat should arrive,
the Ben Campbell, Capt. M. W. Lodwick, to replace the Cape;
and the Dr. Franklin No. 2, Capt. D. S. Harris, until the new
St. Paul should! arrive, when she was sold. The Black Hawk,
Capt. Kennedy Lodwick, was bought by the Packet Company
for low water; and the Greek Slave was bought by Capt. Louis
Robert.
This season was expected to be a terror for opposition; but
the Ben Campbell and the new St. Paul were both too slow and
too deep in the water, and were therefore soon sold, both par-
ties being supremely disgusted with the result. The Harrises
and their friends, who had taken a hand with them, realized
that something had to be done. Capt. Hairis felt it was life
or death now, and went around to the Ohio to buy a boat which
would surely beat the Nominee. He soon returned with the
West Newton and placed her alongside the Nominee, feeling
sure he could beat her easily. This anticipation was not real-
ized, and the difference was hardly apparent; but, to make
things hot, they advertised to make two trips a week to St.
Paul. By this time everybody on the river from Galena to
St. Paul had taken sides in this fight, and after the close of
navigation the friends of both parties insisted that there was
enough for all in the trade, and that the fight must be compro-
mised and the interest joined in a new organization. This was
done in the winter of 1852-3, when the Galena & Minnesota
Packet Company was founded, with Capt. Orren Smith as
President, and J. R. Jones as Secretary.
IMMIGRANTS TO ROLLING STONE.
In the spring of 1852, on the first trip of the Dr. Franklin, a
man came on board who wanted to pay his passage to Rolling
Stone. George R. Melville, who was my clerk, and who was
having his first experience on the river, looked at the list of
landings so as to know what to charge him for his passage.
He could not find the place on the list, and told him he would
have to see the Captain, as he could not tell him the price of
passage. It was very near the time for the boat to start and
the passenger waited until I was at liberty, and finally said
that my clerk did not know how much his fare would be to
Rolling Stone. I looked at the man in rather an inquiring
way, as if to ask if he had not made a mistake in the name; and
as he said that was the right name, I replied that there was
390 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
no such place an the river. He evidently thought I was quiz-
zing him, and with a look of disgust put his hand in his coat
pocket and took out a large map of the town of Rolling Stone,
upon which were represented several houses, a large hotel, a
warehouse and dock, and the steamboat Dr. Franklin lying
at the landing and putting out passengers and freight with the
usual activity of such occasions. After he had exhibited his
beautiful map with my own boat at the landing, he looked at
me as though he thought it was time for me to apologize for
my bad treatment. I at once acknowledged that I was sur-
prised, and politely asked for an explanation, saying that I did
not know any such place, and asked him to please be seated
while I would try to see if I could recognize the town, further
asking him to give me its history so that possibly I might rec-
ognize it.
He then told me that Mr. William Haddock had been out
in the country the year before, and had made this selection for
a colony which had been founded during the winter in the
City of New York; that a crowd of men had gone out during
the winter to build the hotel and the houses and dock and
warehouse, as he had shown me on the map; that Mr. Had-
dock had assured him that the Dr. Franklin ran right by the
place, and had told him to get on my boat, because I knew just
where the town was and ran right by it every trip; and that
he had come out early with a large lot of apple seed to plant
a nursery. By questioning and guessing I finally located the
town, or rather where it ought to be. I said that this was an
Indian territory, and that the Government would not permit
a settlement on the land; that the location, as I gauged it,
was about three miles above Wabasha Prairie, and, as near as
I could make out, it was the present home of Wabasha's band
of the Sioux, and I thought possibly immigrants would get a
warm reception; and that there was only one white man liv-
ing within ten miles of the place, and there could not possibly
be any such buildings as he described. He answered, "Why,
you will find at least one hundred men, women, and children,
waiting in Galena for the return of your boat, to come up to
their future home!" I explained to him that the boat had
been up the slough or channel adjoining that shore, looking
for the Winnebago Indians in 1848, and had nearly had its
chimneys knocked down by the overhanging trees.
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 391
When I went off watch, I said to the pilot that there was a
man to be landed at Wabasha Prairie, as near to Johnson's
claim as he could, and directed him to blow the whistle to wake
Johnson, so that the man would have somebody to care for
him. When I came on deck on my morning watch, I found
my friend still on board, and asked him why he had not landed
at the Prairie. He answered that he wanted to be landed at
Boiling Stone, and kept on the boat until we came back from
St. Paul.
On my return to Galena, I found, as he had told me, quite
a large number of persons who wished to engage passage to
Rolling Stone, well-to-do looking people, with much evidence
of comfortable living at home. They had bought teams,
wagons, and farm implements, provisions, and a general out-
fit, as they supposed they would want them. Some of the
ladies had their canary birds and other family pets, and they
were all as happy as anyone could wish to be. Mr. B. H. Camp-
bell had said to them that Captain Blakeley knew all the river
in the day or night, in answer to their questions about me and
my boat; and no one asked a question, but all were anxious
to go as soon as possible to their new and happy home. I was,
as usual, very busy in port and did not ask any questions, as
they appeared to be intelligent persons; and I supposed
that possibly I might be mistaken, and might not quite under-
stand the situation. The boat left late in the day, and when
we left Dubuque it was quite dark, so that I was on my watch
.and did not have any talk with my passengers for the Boiling
Stone colony.
After breakfast the next day, which was a fine day, almost
all the ladies and gentlemen of my colony friends came on the
hurricane deck to look at the country and river, and to make
inquiries of the captain about their new home. After answer-
ing many of their questions, I began to ask some questions in
turn. They made much the same answers as my apple seed
friend of the last trip; and, as our mutual questions and an-
swers were exchanged, they became somewhat interested in
the discussion. I finally asked whether any of them were farm-
ers. They said, "No!" they had always lived in New York
€ity, and during the winter they had held meetings and had
lectures on the subject of colonies in the West, and had founded
this colony venture, which had some politics in it One of their
392 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
watchwords was, "Vote yourself a farm" They acknowledged
that they did not know what they should find where they were
going, or whether provision was made for their reception or
not; but stated that a committee had gone out during the
winter to make ready for them.
I then said that it was not possible that there had been any
buildings built, as there were only two white men that lived
within fifty miles of the place, and no lumber to build with
could be obtained nearer than Black River Falls or the Chip-
pewa river, all in Wisconsin; and that I was sure they would
not have a place to put their families in out of the weather. I
explained to them, as well as I could, what they would have
to do; that they would be landed at Wabasha Prairie, about
three or four miles from the Rolling Stone, where a Mr. John-
son had located a town site claim and had a little cabin big
enough for himself, which he had built during the last fall;
but that my advice to them all was to go to St. Paul, except
that a committee should be left to see for themselves, whor
when the boat returned, would tell them better what to do.
They were quite too enthusiastic to> take advice; and all,
or nearly all, landed on the bare prairie without a thing to pro-
tect them from the weather but the goods they landed. Other
boats brought others to join the colony,, and in all some three
or four hundred persons must have landed for Rolling Stone,
Not a house, nor the sign of a house, had been built; nor was
there any provision for their protection. They got some lum-
ber off the rafts as they came down from the Chippewa, and
made a floor to lie down on, and made a kind of roof to shed
the water from their goods and themselves. The men folks
went up to the Rolling Stone, and some of them built sod houses
or dug holes in the banks to shelter themselves from the sun
and weather. Sickness attacked them ; many died during the
summer and fall ; and when winter set in, the place had been
almost entirely abandoned. Some part of the suffering of this
unfortunate people was told by Elder Ely, who lived in Wi-
nona; but I am not aware whether any part of his lecture is
in print, and I have felt that this short story about an unfortu-
nate experience in the early days of the immigration to Min-
nesota should have a record.
There were some other curious things of this colony. My
recollection is that the village was to be laid out in a fanciful
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 393
manner, with a large greenhouse, a large lecture hall, and a
library; and that the colonists were each to have a house lot
in the town, and each a farm laid out in the surrounding coun-
try; but I am not able to give a full and intelligent description
at this day, because many of their projects as explained to me
have passed from memory.
1853.
In the winter of 1852-3 the Senate had approved the
amended Sioux Treaty of 1851. This information was scat-
tered to the four corners of the United States, and on the
opening of navigation in 1853 the usual rush to the new Indian
purchase began. The Packet Company's boats for this season
were the Nominee, Capt. B. Blakeley; Ben Campbell, Capt. M.
W. Lodwick; West Newton, Capt. D. S. Harris; and the Dr.
Franklin, Capt. P. Lodwick; with the Black Hawk, and possi-
bly some others, for low water. The first boat of the season
was the West Newton, April llth.
This was quite a notable year to those interested in the
location of river towns. Winona, Mount Vernon, Minneiska,
Wabasha, Reed's Landing, Lake City, Red Wing, Hastings,
and other towns not now remembered, made earnest appeals
to the Packet Company to give their locations friendly and
considerate attention. Reed's Landing had been started about
1850 to accommodate the Chippewa River lumbermen, who
found the bottomlands on the Wisconsin side too low in high
water seasons. The St. Louis boats paid us more attention
this season, and the Minnesota river claimed the attention of
immigrants.
The following is a list of the steamboats of the upper Mis-
sissippi river, with the number of arrivals of each at St. Paul
during the season: The Nominee, 29; Dr. Franklin No. 2, 28;
West Newton, 27; Greek Slave, 18; Black Hawk, 10; Shen-
andoah, 5; Grand Prairie, 3;v Die Vernon, 1; Hindoo, 2;
Humboldt, 11; Henrietta, 2; lola, 5; Jennie Lind, 1; Asia,
12; Excelsior, 13; Luella, 7; and the Clarion, 23, the last being
from the Minnesota river. There may have been others from
the Minnesota river in this list. It will be noticed1 that the
old Dr. Franklin does not appear in the list of arrivals made.
1854.
Mr. Henry W. Farnham, of the firm of Sheffield & Farnham,
contractors for the construction of the Chicago & Rock Island
394 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
Railroad, asked some one of the Packet Company to visit Chi-
cago at the annual meeting of the stockholders of that road
in the winter, prepared to make some arrangement with them
to furnish a line connection from Rock Island to Galena and
upper river points, as the railroad would be finished early in
the spring. I made the visit and concluded the arrangement
for business as soon as their road should be completed.
While the conversation about the line to meet them pro-
gressed, it became known that we were building two new and
very nice boats for business the next summer; and the in-
quiry was made, "Can you promise us the exclusive charter
of one of these new boats to take ourselves, families, and
friends, to St. Paul and back in pleasant high water season?"
I replied, "Most certainly, at any time that suits your conven-
ience, if you give us a week's notice." They promised to give
notice in due time.
This season's opening was rather early, and the Nominee,
Capt. Blakeley, arrived on April 8th. The Packet Company's
boats for the season were the Nominee, Capt. R. Blakeley; War
Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris; Galena, Capt. D. B. Morehouse;
Royal Arch, Capt. E. H. Gleim; and the Dr. Franklin, Capt. P.
Lodwick.
The new boats were very nice ones. The experience in
building the Ben Campbell and New St. Paul was not lost in
the plans for the new boats. Capt. M. W. Lodwick had sold
his stock to Capt. D. B. Morehouse, an old steamboat man. I
was the youngest boatman of the lot. Capt. Harris we knew.
Capt. Morehouse had lived in Galena in an early day, and had
been engaged in the New Orleans trade for some years. Capt.
Gleim was a clerk on the steamboat Warrior with Capt.
Throckmorton at the Battle of Bad Axe; and my first pilot,
Capt. William White, was a pilot on her at the same time.
Capt. Preston Lodwick, on the "Old Doctor," had become a
very popular man in the season of 1853. I think I may say
without challenge that the whole outfit of the Packet Company
this season could not be beat in its general appearance any-
where on the western waters. Other steamboats plying to and
from St. Paul this year were the Black Hawk, Capt. R. M.
Spencer; Grey Cloud; Navigator, Capt. A. T. Champlin; Globe,
Capt. Haycock; Greek Slave; Rebus; Black Hawk, Capt. O.
H. Maxwell; Excelsior, Capt. T. Owens; New St. Paul, Capt.
If'
O
cd
$
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 395
Bissell; Admiral, Capt. John Brooks; Minnesota Belle, Capt.
Humbertson; Luella; Editor, Capt. Smith; Henrietta, Capt.
C. B. Gall; Alice; Grand Prairie; lola; Sangamon, Capt. R.
M. Spencer; and probably some others that I cannot remember
or find record of. Some of these boats ran up the Minnesota
river, and some went down the Mississippi as far as to St.
Louis.
Burris & Hartzel, of Point Douglas, shipped 2,000 bushels
of wheat this year, the first shipment recorded.
EXCURSION OF EASTERN VISITORS.
Mr. Farnham gave us notice that the invited guests on the
excursion would exceed the number contemplated, and asked
us to be prepared to send two of our packets to take the party;
but a little later he asked for another, and finally the number
was increased to five boats.
Mr. George W. Moore, at the time one of the proprietors
of the Minnesotian, published in this city, joined the fleet at
La Crosse ; and to him I am thankfully indebted for the follow-
ing report, which was published in the daily Minnesotian Fri-
day morning, June 9th, 1854.
According to the programme, about twelve hundred invited guests of
the Chicago and Rock Island Railroad Company assembled at Chicago,
on Saturday evening last, to join in the excursion celebratory of the
union of the Mississippi with the Atlantic. This immense concourse
was passed over the Road on Monday, with a degree of order and reg-
ularity that all speak of in the highest degree of commendation. Arriv-
ing at Rock Island, the following steamers were in waiting to receive
the guests:
Galena and Ht. Louis Packets.
Golden Era, Capt. Hiram Bersie; G. W. Sparhawk, Capt. Montre-
ville Green; Lady Franklin, Capt. Legrand Morehouse.
Galena and Minnesota Packets.
War Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris; Galena, Capt. D. B. Morehouse.
On these magnificent packets, embarked about one thousand of the
company; and at a given signal, bells were rung and whistle® sounded,
and then the curling waters of the Great River opened to receive the
keels of vessels freighted with hundreds of the most distinguished men
and women of the nation, who had never before set eye upon the rich
beauties which nature has distributed so profusely over our mighty
valley. The list of names which we annex shows that the character of
the party is such as was never before assembled in one company in
these United States. Eminent statesmen; world renowned jurists; the
great and celebrated in science and divinity; the famous in art and let-
396 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
ters, and the leading men at the helm editorial, are mingled in social
intercourse upon this grand occasion.
It was an unfortunate event that the weather proved somewhat un-
favorable when the party was landed at Galena on Tuesday morning.
Notwithstanding this drawback, the Galenians were on hand to receive
the guests in a manner becoming the well-earned reputation of that en-
terprising city. An excursion was had to the mines, and at the boats
addresses were made and happy responses received from Hon. Edward
Bates of St. Louis, Ex-President Fillmore, and others. At Dubuque,
the same interesting ceremonies took place.
At La Crosse, the boats landed in a driving rain storm from the
north, which prevented the citizens from making such demonstration as
they otherwise would have wished. Still, a large crowd was at the
landing, and when the familiar visage of MILLAED FILLMORE appeared
upon the deck of the Golden Era, there were universal and prolonged
cheers from the assembled multitude on shore. But a brief stop was
made here; and this was the last general call made at any point until
the party arrived at St. Paul yesterday morning.
The boats reached our landing about eight o'clock in the morning.
The display of the fleet in our river, upon rounding the point below the
city, is represented by those who witnessed it from the shore as being
grand beyond precedent. The five boats were so arranged that they
approached in order as regular as though they were an armed squadron
taking their position in line of battle. Two full bands of music were
on board, both of which struck up lively airs as the boats neared the
landing. This, with the rays of the bright June sun which broke forth
in all his glory after three days' storm; the animation of the company
on board the boats, and the enthusiasm of the assembled hundreds on
shore and on the decks of the Admiral, then lying at the landing, pro-
duced a scene of excitement which St. Paul has never before witnessed,
and perhaps will not again for many years.
Unfortunately, the fast railroad time of Sheffield & Farnham, on
this, as on the occasion of all enterprises in which they engage, was
somewhat ahead of their neighbors and contemporaries. The citizens
of St. Paul were not expecting the arrival until twenty-four hours later.
Consequently, no such arrangements were consummated to receive their
guests as had been planned and were in process of execution. But nev-
ertheless, they did the best they could under the circumstances; and
we hope the degree of attention so promptly displayed upon the spur of
the moment has been satisfactory to the distinguished company.
Many of the party— a large majority, we believe— visited the Falls
of St. Anthony and Fort Snelling, and returned highly delighted with
the excursion. Throughout, the excursion has been one scene of unin-
terrupted pleasure and delight to all who have participated in it To
the personal attentions of Mr. Farnham and his amiable lady, and to
those of Col. Mix [passenger agent of the railroad], and the officers of
the several steamers, we feel authorized to say all are ready to bear
grateful testimony. All are in ecstasies of delight with the country, the
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA.
397
scenery, and the grandeur of the occasion. In mingling freely among
the vast company, we failed to see a soured visage or hear a complain-
ing remark. To the projectors and executors of this more than regal
fete, the Northwest, and the individuals who composed the party, owe
a debt of heartfelt gratefulness which can never be repaid.
We will not attempt to-day to narrate the many pleasing and agree-
able incidents of this occasion. Below we give the names of such of the
distinguished guests as we were enabled to collect while the boats were
passing from La Crosse to St. Paul. Many, in all probability, who
equally deserve a place in this record, have been inadvertently omitted.
In the company are about two hundred ladies, the wives, daughters and
friends of the male guests. Among them, we notice the name of Miss
CATHARINE M. SEDGWICK, and others, not unknown to fame in the lit-
erary world. But we must close our account for to-day, and finish up
full particulars hereafter.
In the company that is thronging our streets as we write, are the
following gentlemen:
Hon. Edward Bates, of Missouri.
Hon. Millard Fillmore, Ex-Pres't
U. S.
Hon. N. K. Hall, [Ex-P. M. Gen-
eral, Buffalo,] N. Y.
Gov. Mattison, of Illinois.
Gen. John A. Granger, Canandai-
gua, N. Y.
Hon. John A. Rockwell, Ct.
Hon. Geo. A. Babcock, Buffalo, N. Y.
Hon. John R. Bartlett, Providence,
R. I.
Hon. John A. Dix, New York.
Hon. George Bancroft, of Boston.
Hon N. Edwards, of Illinois.
Francis P. Blair, Esq., Maryland.
Francis P. Blair, Jr., Esq., St. Louis.
Elbridge Gerry, N. Y.
Rev. Dr. Bacon, New Haven, Ct.
Rev. Mr. Pitkin, New Haven, Ct.
Rev. Mr. Littlejohn, New Haven, Ct.
Prof. B. Silliman, Sr., Yale College,
Ct.
Rev. Dr. Fitch, Yale College.
Prof. A. C. Twining, New Haven.
Prof. Hubbard, Dartmouth College,
N. H.
J. J. Phelps, Esq., New York.
Hon. C. J. M' Curdy, Conn.
Gov. Roger S. Baldwin, Conn.
Hon. D. B. St. John, Albany, N. Y.
James Br,ewster, Esq., New Haven.
Hon. Alva Hunt, N. Y.
Riifus H. King, Albany.
Frank Townsend, Albany.
Hon. John C. Wright, Schenectady.
Mr. Cassey, New York.
Mr. C. P. Williams, Stoniugton,
Conn.
V. P. Down, Albany.
H. T. Tuckerman, Boston.
N. C. Ely, New York.
E. H. Tracy, New York.
W. Chauncey, Ex-Mayor, New York,
A. J. Clarkson, St. Lawrence; Co.,
N. Y.
J. Pall, New York.
S. Frothingham, New York.
Judge Oakley, New York.
A. S. Murray, Esq., Orange Co.,
N. Y.
Col. Abel, Albany, N. Y.
Rev. Dr. Spring, New York.
Rev. Dr. Kennedy, Albany.
Rev. Dr. Vermilliyea, New York.
Charles B. Sines, New Haven.
Judge Wood, New Haven.
Judge Parker, Albany.
Judge S. O. Phelps, Conin.
J. F. Kennett, artist, New York.
Capt. Goodrich, New Haven.
Robt. B. Minturn, New York.
398
MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
Mr. Bogart, New York.
Wm. Higgins, Liverpool, Eng.
Col. Wm. Davenport, late U. S. A.,
Philadelphia.
Judge Parker, Prof, of Law, Har-
vard University.
Hon. A. C. Flagg, Late Comp-
troller, N. Y.
Moses Kimball, Esq., Boston .
Kev. Messrs. Curtis, Eggleston,
Clarkson, and Sheply, of Chicago.
H. W. Farnham, of Chicago &
Rock Island Railroad.
Col. Mix, of Chicago & Rock Island
Railroad.
Mr. Cook, firm of Cook & Sargent,
Davenport, Iowa.
Judge Grant, Davenport, Iowa!,
John C. Hamilton, N. Y.
Thos. W. Gale, N. Y.
Nicholas Dean, N. Y.
W. C. Redfield, N. Y.
John Howe, N. J.
John Bloom, Washington Hollow,
N. Y.
Capt. Orren Smith, President of
Galena & Minnesota Packet Co,
Judge Gale, La Crosse, Wis.
John H. Kinzie, Chicago.
Robt. S. Hilton, Albany.
Benj. M. Hutchinson, Rome, N. Y,
F. F. Marling, N. Y.
John P. Jervis, N. Y.
Dr. J. T. Warner, N. Y.
H. G. Bronson, N. Y.
W. S. Herriman, N. Y.
John J. Mason, N. Y.
Chas. Stebbins, Jr., Cazenovia, N. Y.
J. Phillips, Phoenix.
M. Van Schaick, N. Y.
Hon.E.W.Hamlin, Wayne Co., Pa.
S. S. Smith, New York.
A. M. Knapp, New York.
J. H. Ten Eyck, New York.
Wm. D. Bliss, New York.
Samuel J. Tilden, New York.
Capt. Scribe [R. S.J Harris, Ga-
lena, 111.
Capt. H. H. Gear, Galena.
O. C. Harris, Waterville, N. Y.
EDITORS.
Col. Fuller, New York Mirror.
George H. Andrews, N. Y. Cou-
rier and Enquirer.
H. L. Tobey, Kingston Journal,
N. Y.
E. Evans, Buffalo Democrat.
Charles Hudson, Boston Atlas.
Charles A. Dana, New York Tri-
bune.
Epes Sargent, late of Boston Tran-
script.
S. Bowles, Springfield (Mass.) Re-
publican.
A. H. Bullock, Worcester ^Egis.
J. H. Sanford, New iork Journal
of Commerce.
N. W. T. Root, New Haven Reg-
ister.
James F. Babcock, New Haven
Palladium.
Joseph A. Woodward, New Haven
Courier.
Carlton Edwards, Albany Express.
Isaac Platt, Poughkeepsie Eagle.
A. S. Pease, Poughkeepsie Tele-
graph.
Charles Hale, Boston Advertiser.
A. P. Cummings, N. Y. Observer.
W. C. Prime, N. Y. Journal of
Commerce.
D. E. Wagner, Rome Daily Senti-
nel.
John S. Boswell, Hartford Cou-
rant.
H. H. Van Dyck, Albany Atlas.
Col. Wm. Schouler, Cincinnati Ga-
zette. ,
E. D. G. Prime, N. Y. Observer.
Caleb Foot, Salem (Mass.) Gazette.
Mr. Aiken, N. Y. Evening Post.
A. S. Evans, Chicago Journal.
John A. Bross, Chicago Dem.
Dr. Ray, Galena Jeffersonian.
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 399
F. A. Moore, Springfield (111.) Jour- Lewis Mclver, Utica Telegraph.
nal. John Lockwood, Jr., N. Y. Home
Col. Danforth, Rock Island Re- Journal.
publican. Ellis H. Roberts, Utica Herald.
Wm. Duane Wilson. Chicago Cou- A. Pitch, N. Y. Commercial Adver-
rant. tiser.
Charles Welden, N. Y. Daily C. Gather Flint, Chicago Daily
Times. TrlDune.
R. L. Wilson, editor of the Chicago Journal; Thurlow Weed, of the
Albany Journal; and Hugh Hastings, of the Albany Knickerbocker, left
the party for St. Louis, at Rock Island.
Capt. H.. H. Gear made the speech, of welcome at Galena,
which was responded to by Ex-President Fillmore, N. K. Hall,
Ex-Postmaster General, and Prof. Silliman of Yale College.
Speeches were made from the boats at Dubuque by Ex-Presi-
dent Fillmore, Hon. Edward Bates, Judge Parker, General
Lawrence, Rev. Dr. Bacon of New Haven, Charles Hudson of
the Boston Atlas, A. T. A. Davis of the New York Tribune,
Gen. John A. Dix, and Mr. Black of St. Louis. The response
was by Mr. Samuels, in most felicitous terms.
When the boats were under way they were at times lashed
together in order to make things more pleasant with music
and dancing. Boats went to Mendota and returned at seven
o'clock P. M. Citizens had made preparations for a reception
at the Capitol, which was to have come off Friday evening;
but by the exertions of the committees which had been ap-
pointed by the citizens, and especially by the efforts of Gov.
Gorman, W. G. Le Due, and Col. Mix of the Rock Island Rail-
road, the preparations were nicely completed for Thursday
evening. By eight o'clock a large portion of the visitors had
assembled at the Capitol, and Gov. Gorman happily presented
Ex-President Fillmore to the citizens of Minnesota, and Hon.
H. H. Sibley greeted the distinguished party with a hearty
welcome. The Ex-President, Hon. George Bancroft, and
others, responded in hearty thanks for this kind reception,
highly complimented the country, and rapturously extolled
the magnificent scenery on the river as they had seen it in
tEeir coming on the beautiful boats in which they had been
so regally cared for. After the ceremony of the reception was
over, the people of the cities of St. Paul and St. Anthony were
severally presented to the guests; and with all their ability
the ladies and gentlemen vied with each other in doing honor
m.— 9
400 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
to their guests until nearly eleven o'clock, when the party
proceeded to the boats. They were accompanied to the river
by our citizens en masse, who, on the departure of the excursion-
ists, gave them all a good-bye and their ardent hopes for their
safe arrival home.
The writer may be indulged in a reflection or two on the
completion of this great event for Minnesota. As has been
mentioned, the expectation of both parties in the arrangements
for this excursion contemplated the accommodation of proba-
bly not more than two hundred persons at most; but the re-
sponses to the invitations of Mr. Farnham came in with thanks,
and permission was also asked for the friends of those who
were complimented to go with them. Many, as a matter of
course, did not know whether they could go or not until near
the time to start. It was quite easy for the railroad company
to find the cars to take them over the road from Chicago; but
where were the boats to come from to accommodate such a
host of ladies and gentlemen in comfort, and with credit to
the occasion? My own boat, with of course myself, was up
the river, and I did not know what a rush had been made to
respond to the anxious request of Mr. Farnham. I arrived in
Galena only a very short time after the excursion, when I
learned of the grand success that had attended the effort to
accommodate this host of the most noted ladies and gentlemen
of the nation, with five of the best boats on the river between
St. Louis and St. Paul, under the care of the most experienced
captains and crews in the trade. You may well believe, but
you cannot realize, my feeling of relief to find this distinguished
party in the hands of men so capable, and on board boats that
I knew would not only carry and return them safe, but in the
greatest comfort then known to steamboat travel on the Mis-
sissippi river. It was said at the time that this was an adver-
tising dodge to influence immigration. There is no truth in
such a supposition, but the success of this visit and the charac-
ter of the people, especially the editors of the daily press of the
country, did more than the best laid plan for advertising the
country that has ever been made since. It cost nothing, but
the great papers of the day and the magazines of the .country
were all full of the most laudatory literature in relation to the
country, the scenery on the river, and the pleasure and com-
fort of the journey. Good results came back to us in a thou-
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 401
sand ways and for many years, as immigration commenced to
turn its attention to Minnesota.
1855.
Navigation was opened to St. Paul April 17th, by the ar-
rival of the War Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris. The following were
the Galena & Minnesota Packet Company's boats:
War Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris; Galena, Capt. R. Blakeley;
Golden Era, Capt. J. W. Parker; Lady Franklin, Capt. J. H.
Malone; Greek Slave; City Belle, Capt. K. Lodwick; Royal
Arch, Capt. E. H. Gleim; and Alhambra, Capt. W. H. Gabbert.
The Fanny Harris, Capt. Jones Worden, commenced run-
ning from Dubuque and was the beginning of the Dubuque
line of boats.
The Falls City made her appearance in June, having been
built by our St. Anthony friends to prove that the Falls was
the head of navigation. She was a stern-wheel boat, 155 feet
long, 27 feet beam, with three boilers, and was commanded by
Capt. Gilbert.
This was a very low water season for most of the year; and
it seemed as though all the light draft and stern-wheel boats
of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers had come to St. Paul. The
immigration that was now in full tide to the new lands west of
the river in the Sioux purchase was becoming widely known,
and the rush made for choice homes kept everybody busy.
The following was the list of boats in the trade this season,
as complete as I can trace them: War Eagle, Galena, Lady
Franklin, Golden Era, City Belle, Greek Slave, Royal Arch,
Alhambra, Minnesota Belle, J. B. Gordon, Time and Tide, Kate
Cassel, Black Hawk, Luella, Hamburg, Julia Dean, York State,
Berlin, Globe, Dan Canouse, Henrietta, Navigator, Clarion,
Fanny Harris, Equator, Reville, Excelsior, Oakland, Falls City,
Audubon, Latrobe, Laclede, Badger State, Regulator, Fire
Canoe, Dubuque, Montellis, Vienna, New St. Paul, Parthenia,
Conewago, Editor, Ben Bolt, G. W. Sparhawk, Prairie State,
Jas. Lyon, A. G. Mason, Kentucky No. 2, Montauk, Grey Cloud,
Sam Gaty, Ben West, Belle, Golden Prairie, Rose, Flora, H. M.
Rice. Twin City, H. T. Yeatman, Adelia, Gossamer, Osceola,
Col. Morgan, Gipsy, Shenandoah, H. S. Allen, lola.
The number of boats was thus sixty-eight. The number
of arrivals from Galena was 300; from St. Louis and the Ohio,
402 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
120; and from the Minnesota river, 143. The total number
of steamboat arrivals at St. Paul was thus- 563.
The Illinois Central Bailroad was finished to Dunleith in
the summer, and the present writer was appointed agent and
traffic manager for this railroad at Dunleith in the fall of 1855.
1856.
Navigation was opened April 18th by the steamboat Lady
Franklin, Capt. M. E. Lucas. The Galena, Dunleith and Min-
nesota Packet Company, of which Capt. Orren Smith was
President, and J. R. Jones, Secretary, ran the following boats :
War Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris; Galena, Capt. Kennedy Lod-
wick; Northern Belle, Capt. Preston Lodwick; Golden Era,
Capt. J. W. Parker; Lady Franklin, Capt. M. E. Lucas; Ocean
Wave, Oapt. E. H. Gleim; City Belle, Capt. A. T. Champlin;
Granite State, Capt. J. Y. Hurd; and Alhambra, Capt. W. H.
Gabbert.
The Dubuque and St. Paul Packet Company ran the fol-
lowing boats: Fanny Harris, Capt. J. Worden; Excelsior,
Capt. Kingman; Kate Cassel, Capt. S. Harlow; Flora; and
Wyandotte, Capt. Pierce.
The Northern Belle was a very nice boat built at Cincin-
nati under the supervision of Capt. Lodwick, and was es-
pecially well adapted to the trade, being 226 feet long, 29 feet
beam, beautifully finished, and of very light draught. She be-
came a very popular boat.
Mr. E. H. Johnson, a man whom Capt. Orren Smith landed
at Winona, as they called their new town, in the fall of 1851,
to make a claim for himself and one for Capt. Smith, both at
the expense of Capt. Orren Smith, had by this time become
dissatisfied with the captain and thought it his duty to buy
a steamboat to run against the old Packet Company, and in
that way return some of the money he had made by Capt.
Smith's assistance, seeing meanwhile whether he could break
the Packet Company. By the advice of some one who was
anxious to run a boat at somebody's else expense, he bought
the Tishemingo, which had a pretty good reputation for speed,
and she commenced a packet line from Winona to Galena; and
after having lost the Packet Company some money, she was
sold in Galena to pay her debts; — not a very profitable ven-
ture.
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 403
The following is a list of boats run in the trade this season:
Equator, Wave, Galena, Golden Era, Fanny Harris, City Belle,
Northern Belle, Ocean Wave, Kate Cassel, Flora, Excelsior,
Lady Franklin, Time and Tide, Alhambra, Ben Carson, War
Eagle, Falls City, Clarion, Reville, H. T. Yeatman, Metropoli-
tan, Berlin, Granite State, Hamburg, Laclede, Luella, Cone-
wago, Jas. Lyon, Globe, Oakland, A. G. Mason, Minnesota
Belle, Lucy May, Arcola, Mansfield, Thos. Scott, Royal Arch,
Golden State, Jacob Trabor, York State, Editor, H. S. Allen,
Matte Wayne, Sam Young, Rochester, Montauk, Greek Slave,
Ben Bolt, Gipsy, Fairy Queen, John P. Luce, White Bluff, Des
Moines Valley, Violet, Minnesota Valley, Diomed, New St.
Croix, Forest Rose, Fire Canoe, Brazil, Gossamer, Badger
State, Henrietta, Grace Darling, Tishemingo, America, Julia
Dean, Atlantic, Delegate, St. Louis, Henry Graff, Carrier,
Bongo, W. G. Woodside, Chart, Vienna, New York. The
whole number of boats was seventy-nine; and the number of
arrivals at St. Paul, 759.
Capt. E. *H. Gleim died at the De Soto House in Galena
early in the season this year. He was a very popular boatman
and an estimable gentleman.
1857.
Navigation opened May 1st, the latest date ever known up
to this time, the first arrival being the Galena, Capt. W. H.
Laughton.
The great activity of the steamboating during the years
1855 and 1856, and the promise of immediate railroad connec-
tions at Prairie du Chien this season, the reputation which
the Territory had acquired for its climate and fertility of soil,
and the commerce that had grown up so fast between Galena,
Dubuque, and the upper Mississippi, so stimulated everybody
connected with it that the Galena, Dunleith and Minnesota
Packet Company, realizing that more new boats would be
necessary to control the trade, resolved to build three larger
and nicer boats to meet the trade of 1857. Capt. Orren Smith
went to Ohio in the fall of 1856, and contracted for the con-
struction of the Grey Eagle, Milwaukee, and Northern Light.
Almost at the same time the Dubuque and Minnesota Packet
Company made its appearance on the Ohio to build two new
boats as well. Each company had supposed that it was the
only one to have new boats in the spring of 1857. The mutual
404 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
discovery that each of the companies was building large and
expensive boats put a damper on the outlook for the coming
season's business, and resulted in a reorganization of the Ga-
lena Company under the name of the Galena, Dubuque, Dun-
leith and Minnesota Packet Company, with Capt. Orren Smith,
President; J. P. Farley, Vice President; J. R. Jones, Secre-
tary; and Capt. R. Blakeley, General Agent at Dunleith. All
the boats were transferred to the new company.
The following is the description of the five new boats:
Grey Eagle, 250 feet long, 35 feet beam; Milwaukee, 240 feet
long, 33 feet beam; Northern Light, 240 feet long, 40 feet beam;
Itasca, 230 feet long, 35 feet beam; and Key City, 230 feet
long, 35 feet beam. Their tonnage measurement was from
350 to over 400 tons each, and no better boats were ever built
for the upper river.
The business season commenced with the following boats
and officers: Grey Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris; Milwaukee, Capt.
Stephen Hewett; Northern Light, Capt. P. Lodwick; Itasca,
Capt. D. Whitten; Key City, Capt. Jones Worden; War Eagle,
Capt. Kingman; Galena, Capt. W. H. Laughton; Northern
Belle, Capt. J. Y. Hurd; City Belle, Capt. K. Lodwick; Ocean
Wave; Granite State, Capt. W. H. Gabbert; Fanny Harris,
Capt. Anderson; and Alhambra, Capt. McGowen.
When the Milwaukee and Prairie du Chien Railroad was
ready for business, the Milwaukee, Capt. S. Hewett, the Itasca,
Capt. D. Whitten, and the Ocean Wave, were assigned as the
packets for that line; and for the Galena, Dubuque & Dunleith
line, the following steamboats: Grey Eagle, Capt. Harris;
Northern Light, Capt. P. Lodwick; Key City, Capt. Worden;
War Eagle, Capt. Kingman; Galena, Capt. W. H. Laughton;
City Belle, Capt. K. Lodwick; Granite State, Capt. W. H. Gab-
bert; Golden Era, Capt. Scott; Golden State, Capt. S. Harlon;
Fanny Harris, Capt. Anderson; and the Alhambra, Capt. Mc-
Gowen. These boats made double daily lines from Galena, etc.,
some of them being special packets and others for freight.
The St. Louis and St. Paul steamboat men decided to divide
the time between them so as to form a regular line to St. Paul.
Prominent in this line were the following boats: Canada,
Capt. James Ward; W. L. Ewing, Capt. M. Green; Denmark,
Capt. R. C. Gray; Metropolitan, Capt. T. B. Rhodes; Minne-
sota Belle, Capt. Thomas B. Hill ; Pembina, Capt. Thomas H.
MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY, VOL. VIII.
PLATE XIV.
; H
STEAMBOAT GREY EAGLE.
AT ST. PAUL, NEAR (CLOSE ABOVE) JACKSON STREET, LOOKING SOUTH.
M
S
ss
OQ
o
Sf
Si
o
cq
EH
QQ
O
O £
OQ
M
EH
OQ
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 405
Griffith.; Northerner, Gapt. P. Alford; Lucy May, Capt. J. B.
Rhodes; and the Aunt Letty, Capt. O. G. Morrison.
The following boats were advertised for the Minnesota
River trade: Capt. Davidson's Line, consisting of the Frank
Steele and some other boat not remembered; Capt. L. Robert's
Line, consisting of the Time and Tide and the Jeannette Rob-
erts; and, besides, the Antelope, Clarion, Medora, Equator, J.
Bissell, and Wave.
There were more boats in the Mississippi river above St.
Louis, plying to and from St. Paul, during this season than at
any time before or since. The following is believed to be a
very accurate list of them: Grey Eagle, Northern Light, Mil-
waukee, Itasca, Key City, War Eagle, Galena, Northern Belle,
City Belle, Ocean Wave, Granite State, Golden Era, Golden
State, Fanny Harris, Alhambra, Canada, W. L. Ewing, Den-
mark, Metropolitan, Minnesota Belle, Pembina, Northerner,
Lucy May, Aunt Letty, A. G. Mason, Audubon, Antelope, Ade-
lia, Brazil, Arizona, Atlanta, Belfast, Bangor, Ben Coursin, Ben
Bolt, Cremonia, C. H. Wilson, Conewago, Clarion, Chippewa,
Cambridge, Courier, Dew Drop, Earlia, Equator, Tunis, Envoy,
Editor, Endeavor, Fred Lorenz, Fire Canoe, Frank Steele,
Falls City, Freighter, Genl. Pike, Glenwood, H. S. Allen, H. T.
lYeatman, Hermonia, Hamburg, Henry Graff, Henry Clay, Isaac
Shelby, Jacob Poe, J. Bissel, Jas. Lyon, Jacob Trabor, Jean-
nette Roberts, Jemima Whipple, Key Stone, Kate French.,
Kentucky No. 2, Key West, La Crosse, Montauk, Messenger,
Minnesota Belle, Minnesota, Mansfield, Medora, Orb, Oakland,
Progress, Red Wing, Reserve, Rosalie, Rocket, Reville, Sara-
cen, Sam Young, Skipper, Time and Tide, Tishemingo, Vixen,
Wave, Mt. Deming, White Cloud. Some of these boats ran to
Fulton City. There may have been some other boats this sea-
son, but in the main the list is correct.
The last boat of the season arrived November 14th; the
number of days of navigation was 198; the whole number of
boats recorded for the year, 99; and the number of arrivals,
965.
PERIOD OP STATEHOOD TO THE CIVIL WAR.
1858.
Navigation opened earlier this spring than in any former
record, on- March 25th, the Grey Eagle, Capt. Harris, being
the first to arrive.
406 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
The Galena, Dubuque, Dunleith, and Minnesota Packet
Company's boats were as follows: Grey Eagle, Capt. D. S. Har-
ris; Northern Light, Capt. Preston Lodwick; Key City, Capt.
Jones Worden; Milwaukee, Capt. Stephen Hewett; Itasca,
Capt. David Whitten; Northern Belle, Capt. J. Y. Hurd; Ga-
lena, Capt. W. H. Laughton; War Eagle, Capt. W. H. Gabbert;
Ocean Wave, Oapt. Scott; Golden Era; and City Belle.
Of these boats the following composed the Prairie du Chien
Line: Milwaukee, Capt. Hewett; Itasca, Capt. Whitten; and
Ocean Wave, Capt. Scott.
The Northern Line from St. Louis comprised the Canada,
Capt. James Ward; Denmark, Capt. R. C. Gray; Henry Clay,
Capt. Charles Stephenson; Metropolitan, Capt. Rhodes; Min-
nesota Belle, Capt. J. B. Hill; Pembina, Capt. Thomas H. Grif-
fith; and W. L. Ewing, Capt. M. Green.
The Minnesota River boats were Frank Steel e, Time and
Tide, Jeannette Roberts, Isaac Shelby, Fire Canoe, Antelope,
Freighter, Clarion, and Wave.
Above St. Anthony were the Enterprise, Capt. Isaac Young;
and H. M. Rice, Capt. William Harmon.
The names of the steamboats in the St. Paul trade in 1858
are Adelia, Alhambra, Antelope, Atlanta, Brazil, Canada, Cas-
tle Garden, Challenge, Chippewa, City Belle, Clarion, Col. Mor-
gan, Conewago, Casnovia, Denmark, Dew Drop, Envoy, Eolian,
Fire Canoe, Frank Steele, Fred Lorenz, Freighter, Galena,
Golden Era, Grey Eagle, Hamburg, Hazel Dell, Henry Clay,
Isaac Shelby, Itasca, Jacob Trabor, Jas. Lyon, Jas. Raymond,
Jeannette Roberts, Keokuk, Key City, Laclede, Lake City,
Lucy May, Medora, Metropolitan, Minnesota, Minnesota Belle,
Milwaukee, Northern Belle, Northern Light, Oakland, Ocean
Wave, Panola, Pembina, Red Wing, Rosalie, Sam Kukman,
Tigress, Time and Tide, Vixen, War Eagle, Wave, W. L. Ewing.
The whole number of boats was 62; of arrivals, 1,090. The
last boat arrived November 16th, the number of days of naviga-
tion having been 236.
1859.
Navigation was opened April 20th by the Key City, Capt.
Jones Worden. The Galena, Dubuque, Dunleith & Minnesota
Packet Company's boats were the Grey Eagle, Capt. D. S. Har-
ris; Northern Light, Capt. P. Lodwick; Milwaukee, Capt. Ste-
phen Hewett; Ocean Wave, Capt. Scott; Itasca, Capt. D.
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 407
Whitten; Golden Era, Capt. W. H. Laughton; Northern Belle,
Capt. J. Y. Hurd; Key City, Capt. Jones Worden; the War
Eagle; and others not now remembered.
This year opened with three railroads to the Mississippi:
The Illinois Central, Milwaukee & Prairie du Chien, and the
Milwaukee & La Crosse. The Packet Company had agreed to
run a line of boats to each railroad. The boats running to the
Illinois Central were the Grey Eagle, Northern Light, Key
City, and some other boats for freight and low water; to the
Milwaukee & Prairie du Chien line, the Milwaukee, Itasca, and
Ocean Wave; and to the Milwaukee & La Crosse line, the War
Eagle, Northern Belle, and Golden Era.
The Northern Line Packet Company ran the following
steamboats: Canada, Capt. James Ward; W. L. Ewing, Capt.
M. Green; Denmark, Gapt. R. C. Gray; Metropolitan, Capt.
Thomas B. Rhodes; Minnesota Belle, Capt. J. B. Hill; Pem-
bina, Capt. Thomas H. Griffith; and the Northerner, Capt.
Pliny Alford. Some others were added as the season ad-
vanced.
The Minnesota River Line included the Frank Steele, Capt.
J. R. Hatcher; Favorite, Capt. P. S. Davidson; Eolian; and
the Freighter, Capt. John Farmer.
Capt. Robert's Independent Line had the Time and Tide,
Capt. Nelson Robert; and the Jeannette Roberts, Capt. F.
Aymond.
The enumeration of the boats in the trade is as follows:
North Star, Frank Steele, Antelope, Wave, Equator, Berlin,
Genl. Pike, Metropolitan, Fred Lorenz, Favorite, St. Louis,
Chas. Wilson, Northern Light, Milwaukee, W. L. Ewing, Ocean
Wave, Grey Eagle, Itasca, Canada, Minnesota Belle, W. S. Nel-
son, Chippewa, Golden Era, Lucy May, Denmark, Northern
Belle, Isaac Shelby, Northerner, Freighter, Pembina, Bangor,
Lake City, Snow Drop, Henry Clay, Conewago, Belfast, Ro-
salie, Jenny Lind, H. S. Allen, Ben Campbell, Kate Cassel,
Vixen, Keokuk, Black Hawk, Hastings, Goody, Friends, An-
gler, Saxon, Ida, May, New Golden State, Clarima, Time and
Tide, Jeannette Roberts, Key City, Chippewa.
The whole number of boats was 54; of arrivals, 808. Navi-
gation closed November 27th, the number of days of naviga-
tion having been 222.
408 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
1860.
Navigation opened March 28th, with the arrival of the
steamer Milwaukee, Capt. John Cochran. The boats of the
Galena, Dubuque, Dunleith & Minnesota Packet Company
were the Grey Eagle, Milwaukee, Northern Light, Itasca, Key
City, War Eagle, Ocean Wave, Northern Belle, Golden Era,
Keokuk, Fanny Harris, and Alhambra. They were assigned
in the spring as in the following lists; but, owing to compli-
cations that developed during the summer, they were badly
deranged, and it is probable that I may not be able to follow
them during the summer.
The boats that ran from Dubuque, Dunleith, and Prairie
du Ghien to St. Paul were the Milwaukee, Capt. J. Cochran;
Northern Belle, Capt. J. Y. Hurd; Golden Era, Capt. W. H.
Laughton; and Ocean Wave, Capt. N. F. Webb.
On the Milwaukee and La Crosse Line were the War Eagle,
Capt. J. B. Davis; Keokuk, Capt. E. V. Holcombe; and the
Fanny Harris, Capt. W. H. Gabbert.
The Minnesota Packet Company and the Northern Line
Packet Company agreed to jointly run the great United States
Express from St. Louis to St. Paul, Stillwater, and St. An-
thony, to be double daily, and to leave St. Paul as follows:
Northerner, Capt. Alford, Monday morning; Gray Eagle,
Capt. Harris, Monday evening; Canada, Capt. J. W. Parker,
Tuesday morning; Northern Light, Capt. Lodwick, Tuesday
evening; Metropolitan, Capt. J. B. Jenks, Wednesday morning;
Itasca, Capt. Whitten, Wednesday evening; Sucker State,
Capt. T. B. Rhodes, Thursday morning; Key City, Capt. J.
Worden, Thursday evening; Pembina, Capt. J. B. Hill, Friday
morning; W. L. Ewing, Capt. J. H. Rhodes, Saturday morning;
New Hawkeye State, Capt. R. C. Gray, Saturday evening.
On the Minnesota river were the Favorite, Capt. P. S. Da-
vidson; Frank Steele, Capt. J. R. Hatcher; the Antelope;
and probably others.
In the summer of 1859 the Milwaukee & La Crosse Railroad
was so unfortunate as to have to go into court in Milwaukee,
and the court appointed Mr. Hans Crocker of Milwaukee, Re-
ceiver. Mr. E. H. Goodrich was placed in charge of the road,
and Mr. Harvey Rumsey was agent at La Crosse. The busi-
ness of the boats appeared to be prosperous, and these gentle-
men, through Mr. Rumsey, asked the writer for an interest in
H
OQ
M §
o g
& §
GQ .
a
GQ
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 409
the business. This proposition was duly presented to the
directors of the Packet Company and was respectfully de-
clined. These gentlemen finally invited Capt. W. F. Davidson
to send down his boats, the Favorite and Frank Steele (which
had been shut out of the Minnesota river by low water), to
La Crosse, stating that they would give him the business of
the railroad. Capt. Davidson promptly accepted this very
promising invitation.
The freight was transferred to Capt. Davidson, which had
been consigned to the Minnesota Packet Company; and a ticket
agent was put on the cars to take up the tickets for the old
line and to give new ones for the Davidson boats. This action
of the representatives of the court, in breaking a written con-
tract without cause" created the natural result in such cases,
and the present writer and Mr. J. R. Jones, the Secretary of
the Packet Company, were directed to make them put the
business back on the Packet Company's boats. Believing the
best way to do that was to make the fight sharp from the start,
we made the passage for all persons from above La Crosse to
Milwaukee and Chicago three dollars and fifty cents, and the
rate for all grain shipped from above La Crosse to Milwaukee
and Chicago four cents per bushel; and we announced that
all freight from Milwaukee and Chicago to points above La
Crosse would be carried free on the Packet Company's boats.
The price for passage from points above La Crosse to Mil-
waukee and Chicago was soon made one dollar, which made
the trustees of the bondholders of the railroad call upon the
court to know what was being done with the road. In making
answer, the court, as in duty bound, ordered Mr. Hans Crocker
to restore the business of the railroad to the Packet Company's
boats according to the contract.
There were some other boats in the upper river trade this
season, including, I think, the Henry Clay, Capt. Charles Steph-
enson. This summer's business started with a good class of
boats, especially from St. Louis to St. Paul, the best that ever
ran in the trade of the upper river. The Hawkeye State and
Sucker State were new, and they all were in good shape; but
the demoralization caused by the men in charge of the Mil-
waukee & La Crosse Railroad prevented anything like a
profitable season. It, however, furnished some excitement for
railroads, steamboats, and the public for about sixty days.
410 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
Navigation closed about November 23rd. The number of
arrivals at St. Paul was 776; the number of boats, 45; and the
season of open navigation, 240 days.
1861.
Navigation was opened April 8th, by the arrival of the
Ocean Wave, Capt. N. F. Webb. The La Crosse Line ran the
Keokuk, Capt. E. V. Holcombe; Northern Belle, Capt. W. H.
Laughton; and Ocean Wave, Capt. N. F. Webb.
The St. Paul, Prairie du Chien, Dubuque & Dunleith Line
ran the Milwaukee, Capt. John Cochran; Golden Era, Capt.
W. H. Gabbert; War Eagle, Capt. Charles L. Stephenson; and
Ttasca, Capt. J. Y. Hurd.
The St. Louis, St. Paul & Stillwater Line ran the North-
erner, Capt. P. Alford; Pembina, Capt. Thos. B. Hill; Metro-
politan, Capt. Thos. B. Buford; Sucker State, Capt. T. B.
Rhodes; Canada, Capt. J. W. Parker; W. L. Ewing, Capt. J.
H. Rhodes; Grey Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris; Northern Light,
Capt. John B. Davis; Key City, Capt. J. Worden; Hawkeye
State, Capt. R. C. Gray; Henry Clay, Capt. C. B. Gall; and
Denmark, Capt. J. J. Robinson.
The Davidson Line to La Crosse ran the Frank Steele,
Capt. W. F. Davidson; Favorite, Capt. P. S. Davidson; and
Winona, Capt. J. R. Hatcher.
The Minnesota River boats were the Albany, City Belle,
Jeannette Roberts, Antelope, and Ariel.
The following were transient boats : Fred Lorenze, Fanny
Harris, La Crosse, and Alhambra.
The Grey Eagle, Capt. D. S. Harris, was sunk at the Rock
Island bridge at five o'clock p. M., May 9th, in going down
stream heavily loaded with wheat and a large number of pas-
sengers. The steamer and cargo were a total loss. Capt. Har-
ris, who had run the river and rapids so successfully for so
many years, was standing at the wheel with his pilot, with the
utmost confidence in the Grey Eagle's making the passage of
the bridge. He was so hurt in his pride as a successful boat-
man, that he abandoned the river forever and sold his stock.
On the 22nd day of June, the writer, under contract, shipped
on board the War Eagle and Northern Belle, the First Minne-
sota Regiment for Washington, D. C., under the command of
Col. Gorman.
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 411
Navigation closed November 28th ; the number of arrivals
was 972; and the season of open navigation, 233 days.
1862.
The years 1861-2 made a great many changes in the person-
nel of the old Galena and Minnesota Packet Company. Capt.
D. S. Harris had sunk his great favorite steamboat on the
Rock Island bridge and sold his stock. Mr. J. R. Jones was
appointed United States Marshal of the northern district of
Illinois, and removed to Chicago. Mr. James Carter also re-
moved to Chicago. Mr. Henry Corwith also sold his stock.
The writer also had removed to St. Paul.
The spring of 1862 found Mr. B. H. Campbell and Nathan
Corwith as the principal owners in this Company, with Capt.
Orren Smith, R. S. Harris and Meeker Harris in the active
management. The summer business opened in the spring with
some arrangements that surprised some of us who had not had
time to attend the meeting in the winter of 1861-2. The first
thing that challenged the attention of the writer was the ad-
vertisement of the Davidson Line from La Crosse to St. Paul,
with the War Eagle, Northern Belle, and Moses McClellan as
the regular boats, under direction of Capt. W. F. Davidson,
President, and Capt. W. H. Rhodes as agent. It thus ap-
peared that Capt. Davidson had two of our boats in his line,
himself being in control of the line. On inquiry it was found
that Capt. Davidson had organized a new company, that the
old company owned one-half of the stock, and that Capt. Da-
vidson was to run it. In addition, the boat store of R. S. &
Meeker Harris was, on the opening of navigation, removed to
St. Paul. This business was doing so beautifully well, that
during the summer Messrs. B. H. Campbell and Nathan Cor-
with took authority to sell off the stock of the old Company,
which they did forthwith, and called a meeting of the stock-
holders to ratify the sale, which was done notwithstanding
the protest of the minority of the stock. The minority holders
took their money and gracefully retired. The final result of
these two honorable transactions was that Capt. Davidson be-
came the owner of all the steamboats of the old line, very
much to the disgust of the men who had made these sharp
bargains without the consent of their old associates.
412 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
It was found in the fall of 1862 that St. Paul was not a
good place for a boat store, and the remnants of the stock
were removed down the river again.
The opening of navigation was April 18th, with the arrival
of the Keokuk, Capt. J. R. Hatcher. The Davidson Line to
La Crosse consisted of the Moses McClellan, Capt. Martin;
Northern Belle, Capt. W. H. Laughton; and Keokuk, Capt. J.
R. Hatcher.
The St. Paul, Prairie du Chien, Dubuque & Dunleith Line
had the Milwaukee, Capt. E. V. Holcombe; Itasca, Capt. J. Y.
Hurd; War Eagle, Capt. N. F. Webb; Northern Light, Capt.
W. H. Gabbert; Key City, Capt. Jones Worden; Alhambra,
Capt. William Faucett; and probably some others.
The St. Louis & St. Paul or Northern Line ran the Sucker
State, Capt. James Ward; Denmark; Canada; Hawkeye State;
and Northerner, Capt. P. Alford. The steamboat Davenport
was added to this line in 1863.
The Minnesota River steamers were the Frank Steele, Fa-
vorite, Jeannette Roberts, and probably some others.
Navigation closed November 15th, the season of open navi-
gation having been 212 days. I think that the boats named
did most of the business this season.
There are many persons whose names should be mentioned
in this paper for their long and faithful service in connection
with this history of the navigation of the upper Mississippi
river. I only regret that in the nature of the case I shall omit
many that are justly entitled to a record here. I am entirely
dependent upon my memory for those that are named, as there
is no record for reference.
Among the clerks who were employed on the boats of the
Packet Company, I remember, with the greatest pleasure and
high respect, Messrs. Daniel V. Dawley, John H. Maitland,
John Brooks, John S. Pym, A. C. Monfort, Geo. R. Melville,
Robert Melville, Chas. T. Hinde, Ed. Halliday, George A. Ham-
ilton, George S. Pierce, John Cochran, Mr. Cooley, Joseph. D.
Du Bois, Geo. C. Blish.
The pilots are also among the responsible and courageous
men on a steamboat who should always be remembered with
the highest respect. No one knows better the obligation that
all souls on board a steamboat are under to them than the
man on watch on the deck with them, in dark and stormy
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 413
weather. Among this class of men I am gratified to be able
to remember, among my early acquaintances, Moro and De
Mara, the French pilots at Prairie du Chien, for their faithful
service; and, with these and in later years, Pleasant Connack,
William White, John Arnold, Joseph Armstrong, John King,
Rufus Williams, E. A. West, E. V. Holcombe, Hiram Beadle,
William Cup, Jerome Smith, Henry Gilpatrick, T. G. Dreming,
William Tibbies, Jackson Harris, Stephen Hanks, Stephen
Dalson, Charles Manning, Peter Hall, George Nicholas. Many
of these men worked during many years for the Packet Com-
pany. I deeply regret that my memory does not reach the
others.
STATISTICS.
Below are given, in regular succession, the dates of the
earliest steamboat arrivals as furnished by Mr. Philander
Prescott, the interpreter at the Indian Agency at Fort Snell-
ing, from 1844 to 1849, and as given in the St. Paul newspapers
after 1849:
1844. Otter Capt. D. S. Harris April 6.
1845. Otter Capt. D. S. Harris April 6.
1846. Lynx Gapt. J. Atchison March 31.
1847. Cora Capt. J. Throckmorton . . . April 7.
1848. Senator Capt. D. S. Harris April 7.
1849. Highland Mary Capt. Atchison April 9.
1850. Highland Mary Capt. Atchison April 39.
3851. Nominee Capt. O. Smith April 4.
1852. Nominee Capt. O. Smith April 16.
1853. West Newton Capt. Harris April 11.
1854. Nominee Capt. Blakeley April 8.
1855. War Eagle Capt. D. S, Harris April 17.
1856. Lady Franklin Capt M. E. Lucas April 18.
1857. Galena Capt. Laughton May 1.
1858. Grey Eagle Capt D. S. Harris March 25.
1859. Key City Capt J. Worden April 20.
1860. Milwaukee Capt. Cochran March 28.
1861. Ocean Wave Capt. N. F. Webb April 8.
1862. Keokuk Capt. Hatcher April 18.
The number of arrivals each year were as follows : 1844, 41 ;
1845, 48; 1846, 24; 1847, 47; 1848, 63; 1849, 85; 1850, 104;
1851, 119; 1852, 171; 1853, 235; 1854, 310; 1855, 536; 1856,
759; 1857, 965; 1858, 1,090; 1859, 802; 1860, 776; 1861, 772;
1862, 846.
The average close of navigation was about November 22nd ;
and the average number of days of navigation, 222.
414 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
All persons who read this history of forty years of steam-
boat commerce in Minnesota will agree with me that there
must have been an immense amount of valuable material that
has been left out of the record, which would be very interest-
ing. No one can be more painfully aware of that fact than I
am. I have known almost every man named in the list of
boatmen that I have given, have taken them by the hand, and
their persons come back in very familiar form to my recollec-
tion, but they are nearly all gone ; very few are left, and those
are of the younger men that came into the trade as I left it.
Those that are gone have left no record, although some of
them spent a lifetime in the business. There is but one of my
corporate associates of the Packet Company left, and but very
few of the employees; and they are the younger men who
came in at about the time I was retiring, thirty-five years ago,
All are gone, and there is no one that can supply what has
been forgotten. I am gratified that I have been able to pre-
serve so much.
The plates accompanying this paper, prepared from photo-
graphs, show some of the principal steamboats of the early
commerce of the Mississippi river. On these and the other
steamboats whose records appear in the foregoing pages, the
majority of the immigrants during these early years of the Ter-
ritory and State came to Minnesota.
Many of my readers may regard this as a sudden end of
the history of steamboating in Minnesota.
It is not an agreeable thing to relate the events that fol-
lowed the summer of 1862; but on the whole I am tempted to
say a word or two. Capt. W. F. Davidson entered into an ar-
rangement with the old Galena Company, which finally re-
sulted in his becoming the owner of the stock of that company.
The construction of railroads caused him to send some of his
boats to St. Louis, which, as a matter of course, brought him
into competition with the Northern Line and with the St. Louis
and Keokuk Line.
Captain Davidson finally held a controlling interest in all
the business on the river above St. Louis. But the holders of
a large portion of the stock of the Northern Line became dis-
satisfied, and applied to the court for a receiver to manage the
business, by which Capt. Davidson was compelled to fight for
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 415
his property. This took so long that the boats and barges
were worn out before he again got possession (to say nothing
of the cost of litigation). The business was ruined ; his health
was broken; and the remnants of what had been a grand in-
dustry, building up the commerce of the Northwest, were de-
stroyed.
In conclusion, I regard it as appropriate to notice some of
the oldest and earliest boatmen in the commerce of the Upper
Mississippi, by adding the following:
OBITUARIES.
CAPTAIN DAVID G. BATES. The first trace that I can find
of Capt. Bates is when he was going into the lead mines on
a, keel-boat, with a crew of Frenchmen, in the summer of 1819.
In 1822 he engaged in Indian trade and smelting near Du-
buque. In 1824 he went to St. Louis and bought the steam-
boat Ruf us Putnam, on which he came to Fort Snelling in 1825.
Later he built the Galena, and is reported to have visited the
Fort with her in 1828. He was a genial gentleman ; was born
in Virginia; died November 22, 1850, aged fifty-eight years;
and was buried in the old cemetery on the hill in Galena.
CAPTAIN JOSEPH THROCKMOKTON was born June 16, 1800,
in Monmouth county, New Jersey. As a lad he entered into
mercantile business in a house in New York. Later, in com-
pany with others, he purchased the steamboat Red Rover on
the Ohio. She was sunk, but was finally raised and taken to
St. Louis, and was employed in the Galena trade about 1830.
In company with Capt. George W. Atchison, he built the Win-
nebago and employed her in the Galena trade until 1832, when
he built the Warrior in Pittsburgh, which had a barge that
she towed for the accommodation of passengers. When he
was in command of her, the Black Hawk War broke out. She
was chartered to take troops and supplies to the Bad Axe bat-
tle ground, and she took an active part in that battle. Capt.
Throckmorton continued on the upper Mississippi river, and
in 1835 built the steamboat St. Peter, in 1836 the steamboat
Ariel, in 1837 the Burlington, and in 1842 the General Brooke,
in.— 10
416 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
In 1845 he sold the Brooke to the American Fur Company,
and commanded the Company's steamer Mmrod; but, after
purchasing the Cecilia, he relinquished his command. In 1848
he purchased the Cora, and was in command of her a year or
two, being succeeded by Capt. O'Gorman, and then engaged
in the insurance business at St. Louis. He returned to his
former occupation as steamboat captain and built the Genoa
and commanded her until 1856; in 1857 he built the Florence;
and in 1864 the Montana. In 1868 he purchased the Columbia
and ran her in the St. Louis and Fort Benton trade, subse-
quently n'ade several trips in the Illinois trade with the Illi-
nois Packet Company, and finally sold the Columbia to the
Arkansas River Packet Company. During the last two years
of his life he was in the employ of the United States under
Col. Macomb on the upper Mississippi river. He died in De-
cember, 1872.
This sketch is taken from Scharf s "History of St. Louis
City and County."
CAPTAIN DANIEL SMITH HARRIS was born at Cartwright,
Delaware county, New York, July 24, 1808. His father, James
Harris, moved to Connecticut and finally to Cincinnati, Ohio.
From Cincinnati he removed with Dr. Moses Meeker on the
keel-boat Col. Bomford to Galena, 111., in 1823. The family
were descended from Mayflower Pilgrims. Mr. Harris was en-
gaged with Dr. Meeker in erecting his lead furnace in Galena,
and daring the doctor's absence had charge of his business.
The foregoing pages give the personal history of the Harris
brothers, and it need not be repeated here.
D. S. Harris married, May 22, 1833, Miss Sarah M. Lang-
worthy, sister of Mrs. Capt. Orren Smith, and sister of the
brothers James, Lucius, and Solon Langworthy, early and well
known settlers in the mines and Dubuque. Mrs. Harris died
on the island of Cuba, January, 1850. He was again married
to Miss Sarah Coats in August, 1851. She died February 23,
1886. The children by the first wife were Mrs. M. M. Dodge,
Mrs. C. T. Trego of Chicago, Mrs. Amelia C. O'Ferril, Chatfield,
Minn., Mrs. T. G. Maupin of Portland, Ore., and D. S. Harris,
Jr., of Madrone, Washington ; and by the second wife, Mrs. J.
V. Hillman, Galena; Mrs. C. F. Taylor of Warren; Mrs. Irene
Gillette; Mrs. H. L. Jenks; and Paul Carrington Harris. Cap-
tain Harris died March 17, 1893, and was buried in Greenwood
Cemetery in Galena.
THE ADVENT OF COMMERCE IN MINNESOTA. 417
The following is from the Dubuque Telegraph:
CAPTAIN ORREN SMITH, well known to the early settlers of
Galena and Dubuque, and in fact along the Upper Missis-
sippi, died October 31, 1881, at the residence of his brother,
Sam T. Smith in La Crosse, Wis. Capt. Smith was born in
Hamilton county, Ohio, near Cincinnati, in August, 1806, and
was over seventy-five years old. Before he was eighteen he
emigrated to the lead mine region with Moses Meeker in the
capacity of a clerk at Galena or vicinity. After a year or two
he engaged in mining with James Langworthy, and they dis-
covered the famous Phelps lode near Hard Scrabble, Wis.,
since known as Hazel Green. About 1827 he married Miss
Mary Ann Langworthy, a sister of the Dubuque Langworthys.
In 1833 he removed his family to Dubuque, and still engaged
in the lead trade by building a smelting furnace near the Wil-
son grove, now better known as the William Y. Stewart farm.
Two years later he went with Lucius H. Langworthy to spend
the winter in Cincinnati. In the spring of 1835 he bought the
steamer Heroine and engaged in river commerce. In that and
other navigation enterprises, aided by the Langworthys, he was
so successful that he commanded and largely owned a number
of steamboats in the course of the next twenty years, and was
for a long time president of the Minnesota Packet Company.
About 1866 he removed to Chicago and engaged in manufactur-
ing and commercial affairs. He returned to Dubuque a year
or two ago. His wife died about five months since. One
daughter and two sons survive. The remains of the deceased
arrived at Dubuque November 1st and were interred November
2nd at Lin wood.
LIST OF PLATES ACCOMPANYING THIS" PAPEE.
Page.
PLATE X. PORTRAIT OF CAPTAIN BLAKELEY 303
STEAMBOATS OF THE UPPEK MISSISSIPPI RIVER, 1850-1862.
PLATE XL STEAMBOAT NOMINEE 388
At Galena on the Fever (Galena) River, looking west.
418 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTIONS.
Page.
PLATE XII. STEAMBOAT WAR EAGLE 394
At LaCrosse (in "the Slough"), looking east. (The
War Eagle was finally burned at La Crosse, set-
ting fire to the freight depot.)
PLATE XIII. STEAMBOAT NORTHERN BELLE 402
At Winona, looking east.
PLATE XIV. STEAMBOAT GREY EAGLE... 404
At St. Paul, near (close above) Jackson Street, look-
ing south.
PLATE XV. STEAMBOAT MILWAUKEE 404
At Winona, looking east.
PLATE XVI. STEAMBOAT NORTHERN LIGHT 404
At Winona, looking east.
PLATE XVII. STEAMBOAT ITASCA. 404
At Winona, looking east.
PLATE XVIII. STEAMBOAT KEY CITY 404
lAt Winona, looking east.
PLATE XIX. STEAMBOAT CANADA 406
At Winona, looking east.
PLATE XX. STEAMBOAT SUCKER STATE 408
At Winona, looking east.
PLATE XXI. STEAMBOAT DAVENPORT 412
At Winona, looking east.
RETURN CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
TO— +> 202 Main Library
LOAN PERIOD 1
2
3
HOME USE
4
5
6
ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS
1 -month loans may be renewed by calling 642-3405
6-month loans may be recharged by bringing books to Circulation Desk
Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date
DUE AS STAMPED BELOW
APR ft 71981
UHL CI2. JUII 2 2
1931
0 ifla
•Oflft
a«^NO?l
1 raoD
985
EEfc Wft NOV 1 1Jl
SENT ON ILL
NOV 2 9 W*
U. C. BERKELEY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY
FORM NO. DD6, 60m, 12/80 BERKELEY, CA 94720
GENERAL LIBRARY - U.C. BERKELEY
BOOO^bflB?