LLEN COUNTY PUBLIC I
3 1833 01103 6479
5ENEAL0GY
1979.401
IM52C
HISTORY OF
Mendocino and Lake
Counties
CALIFORNIA
WITH
Biographical S/^etches
OF
The Leading Men and Women of the Counties who have
been Identified with their G?vivth and
Development from the Early
Days to the Present
HISTORY BY
AuRELius O. Carpenter and Percy H. Millberry
ILLUSTRATED
COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME
HISTORIC RECORD COMPANY
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
1914
1714326
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
Organization and Legislative History of Mendocino County 17
Topography of the county — Assessed valuation — Soil — Spanish grants —
Boundary settlements — First county officers elected — Division into super-
visorial districts — Bonds issued for purchase of bridges — Appropriations for
support of institutions — Resources — Rain abundant — Crops plentiful — Early
real estate transactions — State and county officers.
CHAPTER II.
Anderson Township 37
Comprises the watershed of Navarro river — Area — Climate and products —
Early settlement — Township heavily timbered — Sawmills — Access to town-
ship — Yorkville, Boonville, Philo, Hermitage — Lodges — Notable citizens of
former days.
CHAPTER III.
Arena Township 41
Location and area — Products — Timber outlook — Point Arena the chief town
— Early settlement — Gualala, Bourne's Landing, Fish Rock, Manchester,
Bridgeport — First mill in the township — Other mills — Secret societies —
Building of the lighthouse — Newspapers — Chronology.
CHAPTER IV.
Big River Township 50
Township boundaries — Rivers and streams — Early settlement — Mendocino
the chief town — Business houses and newspapers — Secret societies — The
liarbor — Salmon Creek, Albion, Little River and Caspar — Chronology.
CHAPTER V.
Ten JIile Township _ 61
Township heavily timbered — One of the longest beaches in the county —
Story of township centers around Fort Bragg — Early history and settle-
ment of the township — Business enterprises — Chronology — Cleone, New-
port and Glen Blair — Banks — Secret societies.
CHAPTER VI.
Ukiah Township ^ . 69
Lies in valley of Russian River — Soil and climate — Products — Early settle-
ment — First deed placed on record — Newspapers — First store and first
church — Ukiah incorporated — Banks — Chronology — Mendocino State Hos-
pital for the Insane — Watering places and liealth resorts — County farm —
Fraternal orders.
CHAPTER Vll,
Potter Valley Township 83
Location and general characteristics — Incorporation of Potter Vallej- —
First settlers in the valley — Early happenings — Snow Mountain Water and
Power Company — Soil and Products — Fraternal orders.
V i CONTENTS
CHAPTER VIII.
Sanel Township 88
Lies on tributaries of Russian River — Soil and Climate — To%vnship formerly
covered by grant — Hermitage and Hopland — Railroad facilities.
CHAPTER IX.
Round Valley Township 92
Takes its name from the valley — Early settlement — First sawmill — Nome
culture station — Covelo — Lodges — Features of interest outside of valley
proper.
CHAPTER X.
Long Valley Township 99
Boundaries and shape — First settlers — Cahto and Laj'tonville — A bear
story — Mud Springs.
CHAPTER XI.
Cupfet's Cove Township 103
Origin of name — Navarro River and other streams — Greenwood — The L. E.
White lumber interests — Beneficial societies — Navarro.
CHAPTER XII.
Little Lake Township 108
Area of township — Early settlers — Town started on the Baechtel Ranch —
Sawmills in the township — Willits — Secret societies — Willits visited by
fire — Chronolog}-.
CHAPTER XIII.
Westport Township 116
Nature of soil and climate — Beginnings of the town of Westport — Milling
interests — Game abundant.
CHAPTER XIV.
Eakly History of Lake County 120
This county often referred to as Switzerland of America — Topographical
features — Early Lidian inhabitants — Legend of Konocti — Mexican land
grants.
CHAPTER XV.
First White Settlers in Lake County 124
Salvador Vallejo first settler— .Adventurous career of Stone and Kelsey— .\
night attack upon the Indians — The massacre of Stone and Kelsey — Govern-
ment punishes tlie Indians— First permanent settlement — Establishment of
government.
CHAPTER XVL
Org.vnization op the County 131
Act defining boundaries and providing for organization of county — Peregri-
nation of the county seat — Lower Lake Township— Destruction of Cache
Creek dam — Vigilance committee seize officers and tear out dam — Water
company sues the county.
CONTENTS V 1 i
CHAPTER XVII.
Lakeport and Other Towns 137
First store in Lakeport — Clear Lake College instituted — Clear Lake Union
High School — Banks — Newspapers — Lakeport incorporated in 1888 —
Kelseyville — Upper Lake — Bean canning — Middletown.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Some op the Resources of Lake County 143
The Sulphur Banks Quicksilver mine — Mineral springs — Roads — Fruit
growing — Clear Lake water utilization — The Central Counties Land Com-
pany bubble — The Yolo Water and Power Company operations — County
development — Railroad projects.
CHAPTER XIX.
Officials, Schools, Churches and Fraternities 151
Officials who have served Lake County since its organization — History of
schools in the county — Methodist Episcopal the pioneer ctiurch — Odd
Fellow and Masonic organizations.
INDEX
A
Abramson, John 882
Adamson, Edward F 582
Adamson, John M 416
Akins, Augustus M 181
Albonico, Lorenzo 900
Aldrich, Charles A 746
Allen, W. Ivy 266
Alley, Samuel H 1010
Allison, Lorence E 201
Anderson, George P 736
Anderson, Hans 347
Anderson, Rush M 929
Andreani, James 669
Anker, Neil 340
Annette, James W 511
Armstrong, Louis 516
Armstrong, William J 403
Aulin, Frank F 811
B
Babcock, Lyman W 259
Baechtel. Gordon 440
Baechtel, Luther S 849
Baechtel, Samuel S 936
Baker. .Martin V 329
Balderston, Thomas D 365
Balfour, William C 956
Ball. Dreeme L 842
Bank of Willits 839
Banks, John R 749
Barnard. Leonard 262
Barnes, Thomas L 540
Bartlett, Nathan 688
Baylis, Percy C 250
Beggs, Thomas H 924
Behr, Capt. John 1007
Belio & AUue 989
Berkowitz, Harman 915
Bernhard, Clarence A 477
Berrettini. Pietro 902
Berry, John E 985
Berryhill. Joseph T 308
Biaggi, Bartholomew 675
Biggar, George M 930
Biggar, William J 942
Biggerstaff, Mrs. Harriet C 298
Biggerstaff. William J 791
Bingham. Charles W 701
Bishop, Howard 81.S
Bittenbender. Stephen K 852
Blosser, Daniel J 655
Blosser. Jacob 587
Blosser, John A 654
Blosser, J. Tobias 640
Blue Lake School District 881
Roardman, Wilfred L 824
Boggs. James W 964
Lilburn H 345
s, Hon. Lilburn W 314
Boggs, William F 633
Bond, John T 351
Bonham, John W 893
Bonham, Richard D 994
Boone, Peter T 285
Bourns, Richard 848
Bourns, Richard T 848
Boyd, George A 1012
Boyle, Thomas E 409
Bradford, Christopher W 410
Brandon, David 833
Branscomb, Benjamin F 1022
Branscomb, Charles W 665
Brennan, Rev. Sebastian 886
Brett, James 993
Brien, John :... 612
Briggs, Moses C 270
Briggs, Ulysses N 579
Broback, Clarence W 748
Broback, Fernando W....;. 591
Brookes, Samuel E 627
Brower, John D 621
Brower, Joseph T 687
Brown, Edward E : 342
Brown, Lloyd W 892
Brubeck, P. W 1014
Brundige, Joseph A 382
Brush, Dennie A 927
Bruton, Josiah J 775
Bruton. W. W. P 586
Bryant, E. E 941
Bucknell, Charles M 371
Burbeck, Charles L 958
Burke, Isaac C 684
Burke, James H 339
Burriss, Lewis C 895
Burton, Mrs. Sarah E. F... 963
Busch, John G 962
Byrnes, Ralph R 300
C
Cameron, George A 396
Cameron, William A 944
Camp, Frederick H., D. D. S 452
Carothers, Thomas L 184
Carpenter, A. 1 652
Carpenter, Mrs. Helen M 653
Gary, Earl J 671
Gary, George E 563
Gary, Louis H 671
Chambers, Alfred J 889
Christy, John H 861
Church. Joseph M 361
Churchill, Heber B 573
Cittoni, Clemente 691
Clark, Byron ; 195
Clarke, Joseph H 1019
Clayton, William J 636
Clear Lake Railroad Company 968
Cochard, Oscar 643
Cocking, Nicholas 710
Commercial Bank of Ukiah 400
Connolly, P 842
Coombs, Silas •. 1035
Coombs, Silas W : 559
Coombs, William B 1029
Cotton, Joel S 733
Cowen, John W 906
Cox. Dabney L 505
Cox, Thomas W 1001
Crawford, John 950
Crawford, Wayne L 952
Cruickshank, George 534
Cummings, Frank A 1025
Curley, Charles M 547
Curtis, Carleton A 490
D
Dahl, Charles E 966
Daily, George L 782
Daniels. George A 1013
Dartt, Robert J 910
Davidson, Allen 869
Davidson, Allen 945
Davidson, William C 445
Del Grosso, Amadeo 901
Denison, James H 227
Dennis, Amos 569
Devereux, John 907
Devilbiss, George A 548
Dewell, Benjamin 809
Dewell, Mrs. Celia H 681
Dewell, Samuel M 810
Dickie, Walter B 400
Dill. John M 1017
Dilling, Andrew Albert 446
Dilling, Joseph H 1021
Dixon. William H 951
Dodge. William K 506
Donnelley, William F 840
Donohoe, Jeremiah H 796
Donohoe, Robert E 796
Donohue. Michael 692
Dooley, Elijah 492
Dooley, Franklin W 788
Dowd, John E 649
Drewry, Irvin H 495
Drewry. John P 495
Drewry, Sarah E 495
Dryden, Robert J 3.^3
Duffield. Jesse C 661
Dunbar. Walter S 853
Duncan. Frank .364
Duncan, George W 735
Duncan, Ralph T 245
Duncan, Sa'Tiuel 246
Duncan, William 368
Dunlap. James L 1032
Dutcher, Ida 694
E
Ebbinghausen, Frank 702
Ebbinghausen, Henry F 702
Edmands, William 166
Edwards, James 979
Elliott. William B 683
Ells, George H 464
Enderlin, Ernest 200
English, Daniel P 451
English, Wylie 676
Exley, Mrs. Rosa D 222
F
Farmers Savings Bank. Lakeport 288
Farnsworth, Silas B 441
Favreliere, E 539
Fee, George H 996
Fifield, George W 260
Finne, Louis 838
First National Bank, Fort Bragg 799
Fitch, Ernest E 990
Flowers, Prof. Chester D 265
Ford. James A 662
Ford, William 294
Ford, William K 981
Forse, William H 412
Foster, A. W 863
Foster, R. N 863
F;oster, W. A. S 839
Foushee, Edwin C 697
Foye, Henry M 518
Franklin, David, ^L D 325
P'raser, John K 317
Eraser, Lyon 388
Frazer, James 778
French, James A 988
Fuller, W^illiam F 704
G -
Galletti, Charles 927
Gamberg, August 922
Gambrel, Edward 193
Garner, Fred W 931
Garner, John F 608
Garner. John R 252
Garner, Leland J 574
Caspar, Manuel 901
Gavin, John 953
Gibbs, George H 956
Gibson, Edwin 431
Gibson, John R 829
Goforth, Frank M 908
Goforth, George W 910
Golden. George 613
Goldsmith, William C 188
Good, Prof. Roy 797
Goodwin, Charles 790
Gordon, George R 405
Gowan, Ernest .-X 874
Graham, Nathan 532
Graham. Willis N _ 770
Granholm, John 1 976
Grant. George W 656
Gravier, Edward A 790
Green. Arthur W 467
Greenough. Ralph C 628
Gregory, Lester C, M. D 841
Grindle, Joshua 911
Grist. John W 987
Grothe Brothers ;1043
Gruwell. Will W 894
Guenza, John _ 550
Gummerus. lohn F 900
Gunn, James A 281
H
Hall, Frank K 926
Hall, Parker L 828
Halliday, Joseph C 224
Ham, John T 946
Hamer, George L 759
Hammond, Col. Charles M 160
Handv. Fred C 291
Handy, Percy W 806
Handy, Philo 806
Hanen, William 789
Hansen, Chris 390
Hansen, Hans P 63S
Hansen, Henry 719
Hanson, John E 922
Hanson, Rufus T 914
Harden, P. 975
Hargrave, Charles M 617
Hargrave, Walter 570
Harrington, Harry 798
Harris, James A 276
Harris, Joseph W 800
Haskett, Guy 372
Haskett, Mrs. Miranda B 540
Haun, Andrew 1027
Haydon, Mrs. Eugenia 988
Haydon, Hiram B 875
Heckendorf, Henry D 859
Heeser, William 850
Helm. Mrs. A. M 727
Hemenway, Charles L 670
Hendricks, Greenbury 470
Hendricks, John B 470
Hendricks, LaFayette 207
Herrick, Hamlin W 458
Herrick, Silas B 459
Hewlett, George 1033
Heyward, George T 174
Heyward, Jesse 442
Hildreth, William J 744
Himmehvright, Edwin Y 528
Hoberg, Gustav 595
Hoberg, Max G 595
Hoberg. Mrs. Mathilda 595
Hoffman, John P 320
Hogshead, John S., M. D 601
Holbrook, Eugene E 307
Holzhauser, L. J 747
Hopland Stock Farm 863
Hopper, Laurance C 858
Howard, Peter M 378
Howe, Newton P 729
Hudson, Taliaferro F 738
Huggins, Eri 804
Hunter, William C 871
Hurt, Andrew J •. 484
Hurt, Charles H 178
Hutsell, Robert T 730
Hyvari & Karjamaki 903
I
Incerti, Romeo 907
Ingram, Daniel C 677
Irvine. Charles A 666
Irwin, Hettie 303
Iversen. M. H 373
J
Jago, Louis 995
Jefferson, Alexander 428
Johnson, David T 199
Johnson, Hans C 525
Johnson, John C 4-S7
Johnson, Matthew 939
Jones, Alpheus Z 249
Jones, Eli V 872
Jones, Herbert M 885
Jones, John W 728
Jones, P. C 629
K
Kaarto, Rev. Otto 982
Keeling, Herbert V 377
Keithly, Jacob A 1000
Kelley, James W 967
Kelly, William H 846
Kennedy, Albert H 222
Kennedy, Alexander W 221
Kennedy, Hiram 218
Kennedy, Thomas 1016
Kent, Nathaniel W 217
Kerr, James M 346
Kesey, James A 1009
Kiblinger, George W 1030
Kimball. John S 754
Knight, Charles L 965
Kuhn, Charles 1013
L
Lake County Title & Abstract Co 982
Lakeport Public Library 694
Lamb, Mrs. Elizabeth A 882
LaMotte, Harry D 918
Langermann, Fred 356
Langland. Mrs. Clora 255
Lappinen. Andrew 966
Larsen, Carl L 870
Lendrum, Birney A., M. D 1002
LeValley, Don Z 906
Lewis, George C 304
Lewis, William 959
Liftchild, Judson, M. D 384
Lind, John 447
Lindstrom, John H 971
Little, Henry W 721
"Lobree, Philip 582
Long, Edward H 214
Loring, Fred N 581
Lovell, Henry S 818
Lowell, A. J 1024
Lundquist, Amelia 1005
Lundquist, Levi 1003
Lynch. Martin L 821
Lyon, George A 825
M
MacKerricher. Duncan 499
McAbee, Samuel T 867
McCabe, William B 938
McCarty, Eugene G 868
McCowen, Hale 171
McCracken. Joseph L 873
McDonald. Alexander C 432
INDEX
^IcDonald, A. W 908
McElroy, Harry L 765
McFauI, Charles A 544
McGee, Hugh P 954
McGlashan, John 193
Mclntire, Charles S12
Mclntire, David F 515
Mclntire. Murdock 51-
McKinley, Charles 622
McKinley, George E 489
McKinley, Sidney H 486
McKinney, Harold H 812
McPeak, Eugene 324
^IcSpadden, James 357
Malpas, Lathrop, M. D 355
jMannon, James M 243
IManzini, A, & Co 876
Markkula, Matt 183
Marshall, Robert E 1027
Alartella, Pietro 234
Martin, Stephen B T^^
Martinazzi, Martin 877
Mason, James D 575
JNIathews, Charles W 313
Mathews, Charles W 405
Mathews, Shafter 238
Mathison, Charles J 1017
Mattern, Herman §69
May, Charles F 553
Meddaugh, Oscar E 362
Mendenhall, Adolphus 272
Mendenhall, Joseph 823
Mendocino State Hospital 172
Mero. Charles W 915
Middleton, Granville A 510
Millar, David 947
Millberry, Percy H 699
Miller, Curtis A 483
INIiller, Fritz F 720
Miller, G. Milton 743
Milliken, Horace F 211
Mills, Mrs. Lucinda M 387
Montague, Henry W 992
Montgomery, J. A 740
Moore & Bacon ; 707
Alorgan, Lauriston A 835
Morrell, Albert F 933
Morris, William 602
^lorris, W. R 196
Morrison, Frederick L 533
Morrison, George E 708
^Morrison, Samuel L 708
Morrison, William S 883
Jilorton, John J 834
I\losier, Francis L 991
Moulton, Arthur F 1042
Muir, Henry B 659
Mulson, Henry 522
N
Neal, George H 229
Nelson, Gust 414
Nelson, J. A 832
Newman, John G 630
Nichalson, William J 693
Noel. Mrs. Alonzo E 983
Noel. Frank W 176
Nonella, Peter y^"
Norton, Frank J 891
Nott, J. Ridley. ^I. D 949
O'Neal, Philip 944
Olson, A. B |e7
Olson, Mrs. A. B »»»
Ordway, Ed 10|1
Ordway, Ira ^1
Ornbaun, William F »»"
Orr, Samuel 'S^^
Orr, Samuel M 76U
Osborn, George K., M. D 439
Overholser, John 9''*
P
Packwood, John 1 468
Packwood, Samuel T o*^
Parker, Thomas 1""^
Parr, Eugene ^^°
Parrott, Benjamin R j}Jl
Paulson, Christ ^^^
Pedretti, Charles ^ »9y
Peirsol. Frank C, M. D 980
Pemberton, Bennett 1»^:1
Pemberton, James E iu^^
Percy, Edwin H., Jr ^^'
Persico, Francisco °^^
Peterson, Lorenzo S ^^
Pettis, John A ^^°
Phelps, Warren H "Jy
Phillips, Charles W 38«
Phillips, Walter L ««1
Phillips, W. S 460
Pickle, John W ^V
Pinches. Samuel ^^JP
Finer, Mrs. Sarah S 902
Pitner. Oron B ^ff
Poage, William G 411
Polk, Robert T »43
Porter, Edward ^}¥-
Potter, Elijah R 366
Potter, William -'1
Prather. Hale -r:!^
' Preston, Howard P '^^
Preston, John W -f'
Preston, Russell W.. AI. D 559
Puett, William L '^}^
Pullen, James %')/
Pullen, Wilder S 764
Purcell George E .^ «&-
Purlenky, George P.. M. D. 624
Pyhaluoto. Seth A. & Erick S ws
Q
Quarteroni, Giovanni 941
R
Rannells, Warren B 912
Rantala, August 90S
Rantz. William D 771
Raudio. Charles 921
Rawles, Alexander N 785
Rea. Joseph N 937
Read, Joseph L .". 419
Redemeyer, J. A 753
Redwine, George R '. 381
Reed, Cyrus W 473
Reid, Capt. James M 713
Reynolds, Charles 485
Rice, Samuel H 413
Richards, Robert L., M. D 172
Richardson, George W 943
Riffe, Clyde A 531
Robinson, Jesse B., Sr 819
Robinson, Jesse B 821
Robinson, John L 820
Rocca, Andrew 422
Rodgers, Terence 978
Rogers, James B 501
Rohrbough, John S 205
Rose, Eugene W 808
Ross, Rev. John S 230
Ross, John S 326
Ross, William H 233
Rossotti, Dominico 924
Rowe, Thomas F 650
Ruddick. Lewis M 991
Ruddick, William 816
Rupe, John M 977
Rushing, Joel W 896
Russell, Archie M 856
Russell. Sullivan S 854
S
St. Mary's Catholic Church 886
Sailor, Edward P 814
Sailor, LaFayette 830
Samuelson, Allen 292
Sandahl. August 1014
Sandelin. Frank 566
Sanford, John B 175
Sartori, Augustus 750
Sawyers, David L 309
Sayre, Burt G 707
Sayre, Morton S 165
Schaffer, Charles C 678
Scott, Alonzo D 521
Scott. Edwin S 1018
Scudamore, Dick 903
Scudamore, Godwin 955
Seaholm, Otto H : 807
Seman, Emil 1012
Seymour, Wright 453
Shafsky, Abraham H 960
Shafsky, Samuel 961
Shattuck, Dickson S 614
Shau!, Aaron B 394
Shaul, Benjamin F 563
Shelton, James K. P 434
Sherwood, Oscar W., M. D 932
Shirley, John E 527
Shoemaker, John W , 866
Short, James G 1038
Simonson, Ole 374
Simonson, Zacharias 500
Singley, John E 787
Sleeper, D. 579
Sleeper, Ellery D 479
Sleeper, Jerome M 478
Sleeper, Van Buren 480
Smart, George A 826
Smith, Andrew 390
Smith, D. Clair 1023
Smith, Howard B : -' 278
Smith, John P 930
Smith, Peter C ; ..:;.. 925
Smith, Tracy H., M. D 565
Smith, William H 206
Snickers, Edward 1 1036
Snow, John .,..-1 ;. 756
Snow, :\Iatthew M 508
Snow, William F :..., 957
Spurlock, Thomas F , 763
Squires. George E 580
Staheli, John J .-. : 837
Standley, William M 543
Stanley, A. Mortimer 190
Starkey, William H 461
Stewart, George F 925
Stokes, Frederick G 269
Stone, Solomon C 786
Stornetta. Antonio 560
Stout, George W., M. D 168
Stubbs, John L 1039
Swanson, Gustav H 989
Swensen, Peter 452
T
Tallman, George T 890
Taylor, Porter H 827
Terwilliger. Newton C 1044
Thatcher. William W 367
Thomas. William P 399
Thompson, Ira 948
Thurman. Henry 537
Tocher, Robert 597
Toepfer, Rev. Philemon 698
Toney, Mrs. Amanda McCabe 928
Turner, Cyrus G 187
Turner, Thomas G 769
U
Ukiah Times 863
Upp, George W S65
Upp, Philip 865
Upton, William E.. M. D 794
V
Valenti. Gaudenzio 251
Van Allen. L. K., M. D 739
Van Allen, William 739
Van Damme, John 415
Van Nader, Henry H 772
Vassar, Michael 1016
Vincent, Mrs. Nancy M 448
Voss, George H 507
w
Walker, Carolus M 618
Wallace, William L 363
Walter, Simon W 986
Wambold, Henry V 935
Wambold, Milton 923
Ward, Charles M 395
Weigand, William 293
Weldon, Hon. Thomas J 803
Weller, J. E 341
Wells, E. H 884
Wemple, Laurence A 1031
West, Wells W 860
Whipple, Frank A 297
White, Chester 845
White, James N 1040
White, Judge John Q 159
White, William 984
Whited, Charles 348
Whited, LeRoy 406
Wilcox, George L 904
Wildgrube, Henry L 239
Williams, Ernest L 268
Williams, James H 495
Williams, Lee J 1028
Williamson, William 836
Willits Steam Laundry 989
Windlinx, Frederick 588
Witherspoon, Henry E 333
Woelffel, George A., M. D 878
Wooldridge. Josiah E 463
Y
Yeary, George 427
Young, Charles M 286
Young. Swan W 357
HISTORICAL
CHAPTER I
Organization and Legislative History of Mendocino County
Mendocino county is an integral part of the State of California which
was created out of territory ceded to the United States by Mexico in 1848,
as a penalty of and recompense for the expenses incurred by the United
States in the war between the two countries in 1846-7. At that time the
country comprised therein was little valued by either of the contracting
parties, and the acquisition thereof was belittled and scouted by the opponents
of the war, very much as Seward's acquisition of Alaska has been in later
years So, too, has the value of Mendocino county been underrated in past
years, and only within the last five years has its true value to the nation
received recognition at the hands of capitalists, who are generally the first to
acquire an understanding of the availability of any section of a new country
for purposes of profit from land investments. Mendocino's southern line is
eighty-four miles north of San Francisco, and stretches one hundred miles
along the Pacific coast to Humboldt and Trinity on the north. It contains
sixty townships, by United States survey, nearly one and a half milHon acres.
Only about 80,000 acres of this vast area is in cultivation, the rest being
grazing land, timber, brush, and lake and watercourse. Timber covers nearly
one-third of its area; chemissal one-third, and the open land the remaining
third. Of the brush and timber land a large percentage is fit for man's uses,
growing fruit and cereals when once cleared. The greater part of its
timber area is covered with redwood, tanbark oak, madrona, all evergreens,
reproducing themselves from the roots after having been cut down for man's
uae. The range of mountains north and south through its center divides the
county into two nearly equal sections — the coast and the interior, the first
being mostly timber, the second mostly open land. On the oc'ast is a
number of rivers flowing into the ocean, mainly in a northerly course — the
Gualala, the Garcia, Navarro, Big river, Novo, and Ten-Mile, all considerable
streams about thirty rtiiles long. The interior section covers the watershed
of Russian river on the south, and Eel river on the north, either much larger
and longer than the coast streams. The one southerly branch of Eel river,
where it enters Mendocino, from a short digression into Lake county,
through the winter has a breadth of two hundred and twenty-five feet and
depth of ten feet, and in high water has measured at the same spot, two
hundred and fifty feet wide and twenty-five feet deep, with a velocity of over
five miles an hour. And this is but one of four forks of Eel river in the
county.
The assessed valuation of the county for 1913 was $16,346,314; population
in 1910, 23,929; acres wheat, 12,000; oats, 9,000; barley. 7,500; hay, 30,000;
hops, 2.352; alfalfa, 4,000. There are in the county 15,682 cattle; 5,760 hcgs;
252 mules ; 4,389 horses ; 90,785 sheep ; 4,279 goats ; 35,000 poultry. Of fruit
trees there are 98,000 apple; 56,000 peach ; 50,000 pear; 26,000 prune; 1,400
walnut. .'Knd it is safe to say that all the foregoing figures, except as refers to
18 },[EXDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
assessed value, may be considered twenty per cent, too low. The assessed
value is undoubtedly forty per cent below the real cash value. Land values
have more than doubled in the last two years, and in many sections have
quadrupled.
According to Indian tradition, this county and Humboldt were once one
vast mesa, level and waterless in summer, but the coyote (their representative
of power and energy) caused an upheaval into its now broken state. Winter
rains filled the chasms, w-ashed down the silt, overflowed, and broke out from
one to another, forming lakes and rivers, which former eventually became
the present valleys. Hence the soil in each is determined by the character of
that of the surrounding hills. Some are sandy loam, and some the black
loam approaching the adobe. Either is rich in the qualities which make for
heavy production of cereals or root crops. There is much red soil in the
hills, evidencing volcanic origin, and this is unsurpassed for fruit and vine.
In Ukiah valley, the virgin soil has been known to produce one hundred
and twenty-five bushels of oats per acre, and sixty bushels of wheat. Corn
yields well in the river bottom lands, without irrigation, often not having a
shower of rain upon it from planting to harvest, and hops yield from eighteen
hundred to twenty-two hundred pounds per acre.
The various branches of Eel river afford but meagre bottom lands, the
hills shutting in too precipitously. This is also true of the coast streams,
except the Navarro, which in Anderson broadens out sufficiently to afford
some level cultivating land. Russian river, on the contrary, has a succession
of valleys along its several branches, the principal of which are Walker,
Redwood, Coyote, Potter, Ukiah, and Sanel. Little lake and Long valley
and Round valley are on the extreme headwaters of the South Eel river.
Unlike the greater part of the southern and central parts of the state,
Mendocino was only slightly cursed with Spanish grants, as there were only
three located in the county, and one of these incurred final rejection, and one
of the others was undoubtedly fraudulent, though finally confirmed through
the effect of perjured testimony. The Richardson grant, as it was generally
styled, lying along the immediate ocean bank, was finally rejected, but those
persons who had bought acreage of the claimants, in good faith, and were
occupying and using the same, were permitted to enter, as government land,
such premises as they held at the time of the passage of the enabling act.
This grant covered the country one league wide from Garcia to Bi,e: river, but
was overlapped by the Garcia grant from Mai Paso to the Garcia river, which
never was seriously urged, and was not considered at all by settlers, and, as
far as can be learned, none of it was ever purchased by any of them, while of
the Richardson grant hundreds of acres were purchased in good faith, and
fenced, and much of it cultivated.
The Yokayo grant was made to Cayetano Juarez, May 24, 1845, by Pio
Pico, and duly approved by the Mexican assembly June 3, 1846. His claim
was rejected November 7. 1854, and confirmed on appeal April 17, 1863, and
again confirmed on appeal by the supreme court in December, 1864. It
covered the valley of Russian river from the southern end of Ukiah valley
to the northern end of Redwood valley, from one to two miles wide, and
approximating sixteen miles in length, and containing 35,541 acres. The
name, Yokayo, was as near that of the Indian tribe inhabiting the territory
as white men could pronounce it ; but which was still farther removed from
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 19
the Indian tongue in naming the principal valley and the town therein, as
the present cognomen of Ukiah.
Sanel grant was located on Russian river, in a valley five miles south
of Ukiah valley, and was to be of four leagues of land, provided that much
land could be contained within the boundaries given in the petition asking
for the grant. It was rejected by the land commissioners October 18, 1853,
and their decision reversed by the United States district court, June 14, 1856.
These grants were sold out on advantageous terms to settlers, at from $2.50
per acre to $10 per acre, with a series of years for making payments.
Mendocino was named from the cape of that name on its northern coast
boundary, which cape was discovered by Bartolomeo Ferrolo, chief pilot for
Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo, who took command of the expedition on the death
of Cabrillo. The latter died at the Santa Barbara islands, and Ferrolo sailed
north, discovering and naming the cape February 28, 1543, for the then
viceroy of New Spain, Antonio de Mendoza. In 1579, Sir Francis Drake,
seeking the Northwest passage, struck the coast at about Cape Blanco, and
sailed south past Cape Mendocino and anchored in Drake's bay on June 17,
1579. The Russian settlement, at Fort Ross, was in Sonoma county, and
beyond the naming of Russian river, seemed to have no connection with or
influence upon Mendocino county.
By treaty of peace and settlement with Mexico, dated at Guadalupe
Hidalgo, February 2, 1848, the boundaries of the ceded territory were defined,
ratified by the president, March 16, 1848, and promulgated July 4, 1848. In
1849, a constitutional convention was assembled in Monterey, and on the
close of the session, October 12, a proclamation was published calling upon
the citizens of the proposed state to form a government, and elect officers,
ratify the constitution, and assume the responsibilities of self-government.
This document was signed by B. Riley, brevet brigadier-general United
States of America, as governor, and H. W. Hallock, brevet captain and
secretary of state.
In accordance with the provisions of the constitution, at the first session
of the legislature, in San Jose, on the 15th of December, 1849, "an act
subdividing the state into counties and establishing courts," the boundaries
of Mendocino county were given as follows : Beginning on the parallel of
forty degrees of north latitude, at a point in the ocean three English miles
from land, and running due east on said parallel to the summit of the Coast
range ; thence in a southerly direction, following the summit of the Coast
range, and past Cache creek, to Putah creek; thence following up said creek
to its sources in the mountains called Mayacmas ; thence along the summit
of said mountains to the head of Russian river : thence down the middle of
said river to its mouth, and three English miles into the ocean ; thence in a
northerly direction parallel with the coast to the point of beginning. The
county, for the time, was attached to Sonoma county for judicial purposes.
This would include the old Fort Ross Russian settlement, and the greater
part of what is now Lake county, yet leaving out all that stretch of country
between Russian river and the Mayacmas mountains. The legislators
evidently had little knowledge of the country they were trying to segregate,
as a line from the head of Putah creek to the Mayacmas. thence along the
summit to the head of Russian river, would be as intricate as a spider web.
However, by act of March 11, 1859, the boundaries were changed to read as
20 AIENDOCIxNO AND LAKE COUNTIES
follows: Beginning at a point three miles west of the mouth of the Gualala
stceam, and up the middle of the channel of said stream two miles; thence
in a direct line to the most northern and highest peak or summit of the
Redwood mountains immediately north of Cloverdale and Oat valley; thence
due east to the western boundary of Napa county, on the summit ot the
Mayacmas ridge; thence northerly and easterly along the west and north
boundary of Napa county to the western boundary of Colusa county; thence
northerly along the western boundaries of Colusa and Tehama counties to
a point on the fifth standard north of Mount Diablo meridian; thence along
such standard parallel due west to a point in the Pacific ocean three miles
west of the shore ; thence southerly parallel with the coast to the point of
beginning.
By the same act an election for county officers was ordered for the first
Monday in May, 1859, at which were to be elected county judge, district
attorney, county clerk, auditor, and recorder, treasurer, sheriff, assessor,
coroner, surveyor, and three supervisors and bj' an amendment a superin-
tendent of schools was included in the list of officers. Joseph Knox, F. Nally,
Harry Baechtel, George Brown and Jacob Heiser were appointed com-
missioners to designate such additional voting places as they deemed
necessary, and to appoint inspectors and judges of election at the various
precincts. They were also empowered and directed to receive the returns
and issue certificates of election to the successful candidates and to declare
which place was the legally selected county seat.
The county judge's term of office was fixed at four years, and his annual
salary to be $1,500 per annum. The other county officers terms were fixed
for two years. For judicial purposes, Mendocino county was to remain a part
of the Seventh Judicial district, which court was the court of appeal from
the decisions of the county court. The latter court held sessions alternately
as county court and probate court, as the business seemed to demand; also as
a court of sessions on appeals from justice courts.
Before the passage of this act Sonoma and Mendocino had been assigned
two members of the assembly. Thereafter one of these was to be elected
from each county.
Beverly Mundy of Sonoma county, Jesse Whitton of Napa county and
Upton Gordon of Marin county were appointed commissioners to select two
sites to be voted upon for county seat, but they, failing to act in the matter, the
selection of a county seat became an open fight by ballot, and Ukiah received
the largest vote by reason of the largest population, and ease of access, com-
paratively, from the outside world.
The fiscal afi'airs of the two counties were adjusted by the appointment
of two commissioners, J. R. Short of Mendocino and John Hendley of Sonoma
county, who squared the accounts between the two counties by giving Mendo-
cino the right to collect the delinquent taxes standing against her citizens,
on the payment to Sonoma of $1,157.60, which it is safe to say was more than
Mendocino realized from the $4,647.09 due from delinquents. And, in fact,
it having been made to appear that $1,200 of such supposedly delinquent
taxes had been paid and receipted for, Mendocino did not pay Sonoma any
part of the $1,157.60 adjudged her due.
In 1860, the county was divided into supervisorial districts as follows :
First district: Ukiah, Sanel, Anderson and Navarro precincts. Second dis-
trict: Calpella, Potter Valley, Little Lake, Long Valley, Round Valley and
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 21
Sherwood precincts. Third district : Noyo, Big River, Albion and Garcia
precincts. In April, 1878, by act of the legislature, the county was redistricted
into five supervisorial districts, as follows : First district : Anderson and Sanel
townships. Second district: Calpella and Ukiah townships. Third district,
Little Lake and Round Valley townships. Fourth district: Big River and
Ten-Mile townships. Fifth district : Arena township. These boundaries or
subdivisions still constitute the respective districts, though the townships
have been divided later and increased in number to eleven, as follows: Sanel
and Anderson comprise the first supervisorial district : Ukiah the second ;
Little Lake, Long Valley, and Round Valley the third ; Westport, Ten Mile
and Big River the fourth ; and CuiTey's Cove and Arena the fifth district.
There being, of course, no county buildings, the second story of a rough
board building known as Musical Hall, on Main street, Ukiah, was rented
at $25 per month for the use of the county officers. It was built of rough
boards, set upright, so-called balloon frame, but the best and only place
obtainable, and answered the purpose for the time. August 18, 1859, the
supervisors advertised for sealed proposals for a new court house, and
awarded the contract to E. Rathbun for $6,000. No plans or specifications
are extant, or record of its size, except that it was to be of brick, thirty-five
feet wide, to contain jail accommodations, and be built in the center of the
plaza. The building was completed and accepted January 24. 1860, and
immediately occupied.
On the 3d of Septemlier, 1864, $500 was appropriated to enlarge the jail
quarters, there being more criminality in the new county than was at first
provided for. And, to the end that the jail part might be more secure, Novem-
ber 24, 1866, the supervisors appropriated $500 more for iron cells. It was
months before these latter arrived from the city, on account of the roads
becoming impassable for such heavy freight. Meantime the grand jury
declared the jail "no jail at all, and entirely useless as a place for the detention
cf criminals."
Again in 1871 a move was made for more room for the county offices,
jail, etc. Additions and separate buildings were talked of, but the matter
culminated on December 5th, 1871, and the board of supervisors advertised
for plans and specifications of a much larger court house, $200 being the
maximum price for the same, and the building to cost not over $40,000. A
draft of a bill, authorizing the issuance of bonds to the amount of $40,000,
was presented to the legislature. The bill passed and was signed by the
governor January 18, 1872.
LTpon the plans submitted, the board awarded the contract to A. P.
Pettit. And yet, on March 19, 1872, the board passed an order that "all bids
should be and are rejected." Five days later they again changed their minds,
and, with a slight revision of Pettit's plans, they were approved, and on
April 24 the contract was awarded to A. P. Pettit, the building to be completed
by January 1, 1873. Pettit proved to be an honest contractor, and the
building withstood the earthquake of 1906 with scarcely a crack. As it has
been asserted that one, at least, of the supervisors cashed one of the $500
bonds issued, it may have been that graft permeated the proceedings of that
early day.
At times, special tax levies have been authorized by the legislature, the
first of which was approved April 13, 1859, of thirty-five cents on the hundred
dollars, for county purposes. The first rate of taxation fixed by the board was
22 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
$1.65 on the hundred dollars; and the rate has been as high as $2.25 on the
hundred, but usually under $2.
By act of February 29, 1864, a special election was authorized to fill a
vacancy in the office of sheriff, W. H. Tainter having been drowned in Elk
creek January 15, 1864. The treasurer was made ex-officio tax collector, with
emoluments of one-half of one per cent, on collections. April 1, 1864, Men-
docino county was placed in the Third Congressional district. March 28, 1868,
Mendocino was granted five more notaries public. March 30, 1868, legal
distances from the county seat of Mendocino, Ukiah, were established as
follows : to Sacramento city, two hundred and twenty-five miles ; to Stockton,
two hundred and twenty-one miles ; to San Ouentin. one hundred and ten
miles.
On the 8th of January, 1872, a bill was approved separating the office oi
recorder from that of count}' clerk. The first recorder took office the first
Alonday in March, 1874. February 6, 1874, placing Mendocino in the Twen-
ty-seventh senatorial district. March 16, 1874, repeal of act authorizing county
to build telegraph line to Humboldt. March 18, 1874, providing for collection
of taxes in Ukiah school district. March 18, 1874, authorizing issue of bonds,
$10,000 for Boonville to Point Arena road, $3,000 for road to north county
line via Summit or Ten-Mile valley, March 25, 1874, regulating salaries.
February 28, 1876, providing for payment of deficiency of school funds,
^larch 20, 1876, authorizing bonds of $12,000 for purchase of Navarro, Albion,
Big river and Noyo bridges ; $4,000 to complete Boonville and Point Arena
road ; $10,000 to construct road from Ten-Mile valley to north line of the
county. March 8, 1876, act incorporating Town of Ukiah City. April 3, 1876,
continuing tax to provide for payment of bonded indebtedness of 1862.
December 21, 1876, repeal of law giving bounty on scalps of v\'ild animals.
February 8, 1878, empowering sale of remaining bridge bonds. February 14,
1878, repealing act restricting grazing of sheep. March 8, 1878, fixing salary
of recorder at $2,000, with certain fees additional. March 27, 1878, authorizing
supervisors to issue bonds of $3,000 each for building bridge over Gualala
river, and finishing Point Arena and Boonville road. March 30, 1878, creating
special bridge fund, and authorizing tax of thirty cents for that year, and ten
cents for succeeding years, and the building of bridge over South and Middle
forks of Eel river. April 1, 1878, redistricting the county into supervisorial
districts and ordering election, April 1, 1878, act amending statute regarding
payment of bonds of 1862. March 6. 1883, Mendocino and Lake counties
were united to constitute the Twelfth agricultural district. March 8, 1883,
Mendocino and Lake united to constitute the Sixth senatorial district. March
13, 1883, Mendocino county was assigned to the First congressional district.
March, 1885, appointment of commissioners to select and purchase site for
Mendocino State Hospital for the Insane at Ukiah, and appropriating $250,000
for purchase of site and erection of buildings. February 20, 1889, appropria-
tion of $175,000 for support and extension of Mendocino State Hospital at
Ukiah, and act establishing the same. February 20, 1889, act fixing salary
of superior judge at $4,000. March 6, 1889, Lake and Mendocino counties
placed in Twelfth agricultural district. March 11, 1891, act making Mendo-
cino the Ninth assembly district, and with Colusa the Eighth senatorial
district. March 3, 1893, appropriation of $100,000 to finish the Mendocino
State Hospital, with a female ward. March 9, 1893, appropriation to pay
McGowan & Butler for retaining wall and drainage system at Mendocino
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 23
State Hospital. April 1, 1897, appropriation of $60,000 for furnishing hospital,
and $160,000 for support of same. March 17. 1899, appropriation of $107,000
for support of hospital, and $78,000 for salaries of officers and attendants.
March 25, 1901, appropriation of $21,000 for purchase of additional land,
water pipe and cows for hospital. March 21, 1901, appropriation of $123,900
for support of hospital, and $82,200 for salaries. March 25, 1903, appropriation
of $7,500 for water and protection, and $30,000 for assembly hall, hospital.
March 28, 1903, appropriation of $129,357 for support of hospital, and $99,673
for salaries. February 24, 1905, act forbidding sale of liquor within one mile
of hospital. March 18, 1905, appropriation of $4,500 for improvement of
grounds, hospital. March 22, 1905, appropriation of $235,600 for support of
hospital and salaries. March 8, 1907, appropriation of $6,000 to finish the
water tower, hospital. March 22, 1907, appropriation of $138,300 for support
of hospital, and $122,537 for salaries of officers, attendants and employes.
March 8, 1907, survey and settlement of the county boundary between Mendo-
cino and -Glenn. March 8, 1907, appropriation of $5,000 to furnish female
cottage, and $2,500 to furnish male cottage, hospital. April 26, 1909, appropri-
ation of $205,000 for support of hospital, and $145,000 for salaries, and $7,207
for construction. March 13, 1909, partial boundary between Lake and Men-
docino counties. March 25, 1909, appropriation of $12,500 for completion of
cottages, hospital. April 12, 1909, appropriation of $10,000 to build main
kitchen, etc., hospital. February 28, 1911, Mendocino county declared in
twenty-fourth class. March 9, 1911, appropriations for hospital as follows:
$3,000 for plumbing, $14,500 for male cottage, $12,500 for dam. March 14,
1911, appropriation of $4,000 for equipment of male cottage. April 14, 1911,
an act to prevent the taking of fish by traps, nets, dams, etc., in certain
waters. May 1, 1911, appropriation for support of hospital, $210,000, and for
salaries of employes therein. $160,000. May 8, 1913, appropriation of $12,500
for dam and reservoir at hospital, and $10,000 for gas plant. June 6, 1913,
appropriation of $239,600 for support, and $185,460 for salaries at hospital.
An act classifying Mendocino coimty- in the twenty-fourth class, and fixing
salaries as follows : Clerk, $3,000 and sundry fees ; sherifif, $4,000 and certain
mileage; recorder, $2,100; auditor, $2,000; tax collector, $2,200; assessor,
$3,000; district attorney, $2,700 and traveling expenses; superintendent of
schools, $2,400 and traveling expenses. The teachers of the country grammar
schools are generally paid $70 per month. In the larger towns, and high
schools, they are graded up to $130 per month.
The educational facilities of the county compare favorably with any in the
state, leaving state institutions out of consideration. The county supports
two county high schools, five union high schools, and one hundred and twenty-
one elementary or grammar schools. One hundred and sixty-two teachers
supply the graded schools, and there are twenty-eight high school teachers.
The valuation of school property is $218,253. .Amount paid teachers. 1913, $93.-
130. Total number of children enrolled, 3,855. Average daily attendance,
3,060.
Resources. It is estimated that there are still standing in the county
twenty billion feet of redwood timber. Add to this about two billion feet of
pine and fir, and the millions of cords of oak and madrona for wood ; the
thousands of acres of land suitable for grapes and fruit not yet under cultiva-
tion ; the possibilities of water and power conservation oflfered by her deep
\alleys, close-locked canyons, and heavy unfailing rainfall — can one doubt
24 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
that she will yet take her place far in advance of her now twenty-sixth class
among our list of counties? In the last twelve months her many mills have
produced over one hundred and sixty million feet of lumber; and it is esti-
mated that this production can be maintained for thirty or more years, and
some say for fifty or more. Her transportation facilities, already so ample,
consist of eighteen principal shipping ports, and as many more possible ones,
a railroad the full length of the county, soon to connect with Humboldt bay,
and probably with Oregon, three considerable coast railroads extending to
the interior many miles, one of which will soon connect with the through
road, and the Ft. Bragg road already connecting, the future of Mendocino
county is fully assured. The principal timber trees, redwood and tanbark,
are evergreens, sprouting from the stumps and roots, and with any care at
all, such as is given in Europe to forests, her timber resources are inexhaust-
ible. With the immense roots of the original tree for support, redwood
suckers in twenty years attain a diameter of a foot to sixteen inches. While
the cleared land is unsurpassed for fruit growing, we conceive that the
reforesting by natural methods is of much more importance to the nation.
Eucalyptus have been planted on the headwaters of the Albion in thousands,
and are growing thriftily, and may in time supply that timber in abundance.
The Union Lumber Company of Ft. Bragg has also planted these trees by
thousands.
In Mendocino rain is ever abundant, since 1877 never having fallen less
than 19.98 inches in the season, and from that to 60.48 inches. This is the
reading at Ukiah by government standard, while at other places in the
county as high as one hundred inches has been recorded. Thirty-five inches
is the average. The average for March is 4.69; for April, 2.76; May, 1.29;
the least for January. 1.04: for February, .23; for March, .25; for December,
.68. Light winter rains nearly always precede abundant spring rains, which
assure full crops. The winter of 1913-14, up to January 31, has measured up
41.38 inches. There has never been a failure of crops, every year yielding
from moderate to abundant, and perhaps never better than the year when
Napa farmers came into Potter valley, paid three cents for wheat for seed,
and hauled it home by wagonload eighty miles over rough mountainous
roads. Peaches and almonds sometimes fail from spring frosts, but there are
favored spots, thermal belts, in nearly every locality where they give annual
crops. Apples, pears and plums never fail, except in some of the higher
valleys, and even these have the thermal lines to be observed in planting.
The assessed valuation of the county for 1914 is $15,921,448, "non-
operative"; tax rate not yet set. but probably below $2. The registration
of voters for the August primary was 10,000.
Of homicides, Mendocino county has had many, and two executions have
taken place locally, and two at San Quentin. The majority of cases have
been decided as justifiable by juries, and the others sentenced to longer or
shorter terms of imprisonment, more commonly the latter.
The most notable of these was the so-called "Mendocino Outlaw" case.
Four men conspired to rob the Alendocino bank, and the tax collector on his
round of collection. One posed in Mendocino city as a dentist, the others
made camp in the timber adjoining town, and killed a beef for their camp
use. This proved their undoing. A posse went out to arrest them for this
offense, and met a murderous fire, which killed two of their number. The
town and county were at once in a ferment. Ex-Sheriff Standley and Sheriffs
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 25
Moore and J. H. Donohoe were at once in the field, and tracked the men
through the mountainous wilds of Mendocino, Trinity and Tehama counties,
across and back through the Sacramento Valley, and abandoned the chase.
Again taking it up, they followed the trail of the fugitives all over Tehama
and Butte counties, finally killing Billings on Butte creek near Nimshew, and
capturing Gaunce the next morning in Nimshew, and Brown near Bidwell's
Bar a few days later. The three were sent to San Quentin, and the arch
conspirator, Dentist Wheeler, committed suicide in jail. Great credit is due
to Sherif? Moore, Deputy Standley, and J. H. Donohoe. The latter was in
in the field sixty-one days. Both Donohoe and J. M. Standley were after-
wards sheriffs, the latter one of the best in the state, and his mantle has
fallen upon the present sheriff, Ralph R. Byrnes, who has more arrests to
his credit in the last four years than any sheriiT in the state.
Some Early Deeds
The first deed recorded in the county was by Louis and Beatrice Pena
to Richard Harrison, May 23, 1859, to -five hundred acres adjoining what is
now the town of Hopland, $2000. The second, R. Harrison to Beatrice Pena,
in Sanel Valley, two hundred and thirty acres, $1400, May 27, 1859. June 1,
1859, F. B. Gardner to W. W. Starr, quarter interest in 1940 acres, $2000.
Same date, premises and to J. B. Bowen. S. J. Smith, guardian, to Oscar
Schlesinger, June 25, 1859, lot in Ukiah on Main street now the Lempke
homestead. Agreement, Tichenor and Byxbee, to buy or sell Navarro Mill
property, November 27, 1863, $40,000. April 1, 1860, Lloyd Beall and E. J.
Whipple, land near Westport. October 16, 1865, D. F. Lansing and wife
to Eugene O'Connell. Vicar Apostle, lot in Mendocino City, $150.
26
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
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CHAPTER II
Anderson Township
This township is located in the Coast Range, almost all in and embracing
the whole of the watershed of the Navarro river, and a small portion of the
headwaters of Dry Creek. It is thirty miles in length, and a breadth vary-
ing from eight to twenty miles. The arable land at present under cultivation
nowhere exceeds more than a mile and for the most part, only a half mile
in width. Much more could be cultivated, but so far has been deemed mere
valuable for pasture than for the plow. The southern part of the township
is detached from the northern part by reason of the fact that the main
branch of the river. Rancheria creek, has no bottom land to speak of for
some miles of its course opposite Bconville, but further south on its extreme
head waters, it again afifords some tillable land. The valley soil is a rich
wash loam immediately along the creek bottoms. The bench lands are either
black clover land or gravelly loam, while the pasture lands proper, on the
hills, partake of the nature of both the last _ mentioned soils, while the
chemissal and brush lands are generally rocky and sterile. Exceptions in
these latter may be found where the soil is a rich red volcanic debris, that
makes the best of orchard and vineyard land.
The climate of Anderson is a compromise between the hot torrid inner
valleys and the cold, foggy coast section. It usually has a nice sea breeze in
the afternoon, and often foggy mornings, which revive the vegetation in the
dry summer months and restrain the frosts in the winter.
The various grains luxuriate here, except corn, which is not especially
successful, probably from the coolness induced by the fog. Hops succeed
well and give a good yield on the best bottom land. Fruit grows remark-
ably well on much of the bench land and lower hills.
Early Settlement
So far as the dim past can be explored, Walter Anderson seems to be
the first white man who really settled in Anderson intending to make it his
home, and that as early as 1851. He came from Sonoma county, as most
of the interior early settlers seem to have done, and located what was after-
wards known as the Rowles place, on the west side of the valley, about
one mile northwest of Boonville. He sold the place to Joseph Rowles in
1858 and moved away. J. D. Ball and family arrived in 1852, and settled on
the opposite side of the valley, on plateau land, and was the first to put out
an extensive orchard, which is still bearing profusely. In 1855-6-7 closely
following each other came William Prather, John Gschwend, J. S. Smalley,
Oscar Carey, Joseph Gschwend, James Burgess, Henry Wade, Frank Buster,
A. Guntley, John Gossman, John Conrad, A. Braden, J. Shields, W. W. Boone,
A. Elliott and H. Stevens. In the following few years R. H. Rawles, J. A.
Jamison, J. O. McSpadden, J. McGimsey, Alex McDonald, J. W. McAbee,
C. Prather and R. H. York. The first attempt at town building was about a
mile from the present town of Boonville, John Burgot building a hotel, Sam
Stevens a blacksmith shop and Levi V. Harrison a store. Quite a large
stock of goods was also placed in a two-story building (where Robert Rowles
has lived for some years) by Wintzer & Welle, but all of these died out in a
short time. In 1864 Alonzo Kendall built a hotel at what is now Boonville
and called the place Kendall's City. Levi & Straus moved their store here,
soon selling out to W. W. Boone, who succeeded in giving his name to the
38 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
town, Mr. Kendall having removed to Manchester. Access to the valley was
yet very difficult on the road from Cloverdale, and by private subscription
John Gschwend attempted to build a road from Boonville to Ukiah, the
county seat, in 1867. When about half done, the subscriptions failed, and
Gschwend obtained a franchise for its completion as a toll road in 1868.
Within the last four or five years nearly the whole of the old road has been
abandoned for better grade, though the general route has been followed.
In 1869-70 a road was surveyed and soon after worked after a fashion from
Anderson to Point Arena, but the grades were so steep it has never been
used for aught but light teams, except at each end, where the down grade
favors the hauling of timber either way. To John Gschwend also belongs
the principal credit for the road built over Navarro ridge connecting Ander-
son with the coast. This was "swamped" in 1861-2 and graded immediately
after and for many years was the only road from the coast part of the county
to the outside world. The Gschwends, Guntleys and Gossmans were Swiss,
and formed the settlement at the lower end of the valley that was long known
as "Guntleys" and later as Christine, for a daughter of John Gschwend's.
Andrew Guntley erected a distillery and brewery which flourished until about
1866, when the government tax caused the abolition of the establishments.
These Swiss all planted orchards which still flourish, and the orchard area
might be extended tenfold with profit. There are several fruit driers in the
main valley and much fruit is shipped to the coast section for home con-
sumption, but little or none has been shipped to the more extensive markets
of the bay district, except dried. In 1908 two hundred and fifty tons dried
pears were shipped.
The western and northern part of the township is heavily timbered with
redwood, fir, tan oak, madrona, laurel, as forest, with manzanita, blue blos-
som and chemissal brush covering quite a large section. The redwood and
fir have been destroyed largely in the northern part of the township, while
only desultory attempts have been made upon its area elsewhere. To John
Gschwend belongs the honor of building the first saw mill, in 1856. At that
time there were no roads leading into or out of the valley, and access to
the township was had only by skirmishing over the hills from one opening
to another with ox teams, rough locking down the steep hills, and doubling
teams up the mountain. It was built on his own homestead on a branch of
the main fork of the Navarro, run by water. Previous to that date the settlers'
houses were mostl}' built of logs, shakes split from the pliant, straight-grained
redwood, or lumber made by the toilsome whipsaw mill. Some years later
it was supplied with steam power and more machinery for making dressed
lumber. In 1864 a grist mill addition supplied the neighborhood with flour.
In 1875 fire destroyed the mill, and as the timber was nearly all cut off con-
tiguous to the site, it was not rebuilt.
In 1877 Thomas Hiatt built a saw mill some four miles up the valley
from Gschwend's, with a capacity of 8000 feet per day, and soon cut out the
timber convenient and moved the mill away. In 1876 the Clow brothers built
a mill on the west side of the valley, about four miles from Boonville,
which used up the timber on 250 acres, running twenty years. Its capacity
was 12,000 feet per day. It was then sold and moved away.
In 1878 H. O. Irish erected the fourth mill a mile or two further down
the valley, but it was destroyed by fire \ery soon after it began running. In
1896 August Wehrspon built a mill at Ornbaun's \'alley, a detached upland
.MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 39
valley near Yorkville, with a capacity of 20,000 feet per day. This mill was
in a fine body of timber, purchasable at $1 per thousand. By the terms of the
contract the mill was required to cut a specified amount of lumber each year.
Timber raised in value, the mill owner failed one year to cut the required
amount, and was ousted by suit at court. The mill was moved to the old
Bonnet place west of Boonville. cut a little lumber, and still stands there,
although the main body of the timber has passed into the hands of speculators.
The mill cut about 16 million feet in all. In 1904 Bledsoe built a shingle
mill at Peachland, a settlement on the ridge east of Anderson, of about 20,000
feet capacity. It was run about three years, and since then has remained
idle. It is now owned by Bledsoe & Daugherty.
Access to the township is attained by a road from Cloverdale, thirty miles
distant, or from Ukiah, twenty-four miles, or from the Albion by road, or rail-
road, to Wendling, a mill town, a few years old. This mill was built on the
promise of a railroad, but before even residences were finished for its superin-
tendent and foremen, work was suspended, the railroad not materializing.
Suit was instituted, or threatened against the Santa Fe company and com-
promised, and the logging road from the Albion mill was pushed through
to the mill, and tv\-o miles further up the valley. The product is railed down
to the Albion and there transhipped to vessels. This road has been sur-
veyed through to a junction with the Northwestern at Healdsburg, and will
soon be pushed through, as there is a fine body of timber tributary to it.
The Wendling property has passed into the hands of Hickey & Co., and the
town name changed to Navarro.
Yorkville, in the southern part of the township, is a small hamlet of a
few houses, located on Rancheria creek, the principal tributary, or rather
the main head of Navarro river. It was named after its founder, R. H. York,
who lived there many years. It has a post ofifice and a hotel has long been
maintained by the Hiatt family owning the ranch.
Boonville, about the center of the township, is the oldest village in it.
It consists of two hotels, two stores, two blacksmith shops, post ofifice, drug
store, and eight or ten residences, a church and school house and barber shop.
There used to he two saloons, liut the school district voted dry some years
ago and they are things of the past.
Philo, nine miles down the valley, is a small hamlet of two stores, black-
smith shop, Methodist Episcopal church, school house, post ofifice, and two
or three residences, near enough to be included in the town. Here the four-
horse stages from Cloverdale are split into two, one proceeding to Green-
wood on the coast, the other five miles down the valley to Navarro. The
latter is essentially a mill town, and was unbroken forest until the lumber
company pitched on it as a base of operations. The mill has recently changed
hands and its product will eventually find its outlet by rail to Healdsburg,
and on to San Francisco and east. The mill was erected in 1905, with a
capacity of sixty thousand feet of lumber and one hundred thousand shingles.
It was run by the Stearns Lumber Co. with profit, notwithstanding the long
haul and rehandling of its output. The town did contain two stores, one
livery stable, three hotels with bars, two hotels without bars, one saloon,
one blacksmith shop, one restaurant, one barber shop, one photo gallery,
forty-five residences and post ofifice, being the end of a mail route in that
direction. The saloons have been discontinued on account of an election
voting the district dry.
40 MEXnOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Many fine residences have been erected in Anderson in the last ten
years and much progress made in fruit culture. The climate is undoubtedly
the finest in the county, and only three failures on account of frost have been
known since its first settlement. The earthquake of 1906 did not seem to
affect this section as much as the one experienced in 1898, which opened
considerable gaps in the earth at the northern end of the valley but without
much damage. In the past few years roads have been built connecting the
valley with Hopland and Fish Rock, both starting from Yorkville. Several
mineral excitements have had their rise and fall, but none of the discoveries
have so far proved of present value.
There have been several lodges instituted in the valley, but at present
all have lapsed. It has had its quota of fires. The hotel has been burned
and rebuilt; Ruddick's store burned in April, 1913; Johnson's store at Philo
burned September 18, 1913, and there have been several residences burned.
In July, 1901, a threshing boiler exploded, killing two men.
There are several fruit dryers in the valley, J. D. Ball erecting the first
in 1890, Studebaker about the same time and others have followed. There
have been two or three small saw mills on Rancheria and Dry creek, but they
have passed away. The road to Point Arena was improved from time to
time until in 1890 it was made available for freighting to a limited extent.
A mail route formerly extended through the valley from Cloverdale to
Navarro, sixty miles, but has been cut off at Wendling, while a cross mail
has been established from Philo to Greenwood, twenty-one miles. On the
through route in 1904 there were used sixty-seven individual mail pouches.
The timber has nearly all passed into the hands of mill owners or specula-
tors. In 1909 Hickey & Standish bought 3500 acres west of Boonville. and
sold 12,000 acres of their holdings to the Santa Fe. During 1913 much bark
was hauled to Cloverdale by motor trucks; 8700 pounds at a load, two
trips per day, making 120 miles travel. Much has also been shipped by way
of Albion. For 3'ears previous it had been hauled by teams to Cloverdale
and Ukiah.
Some notable deaths have occurred of the old settlers. Among them
may be mentioned John Gossman. eight}--eight years, November 20, 1898,
who came to the valley in 1856; S. W. Knowles, September 25, 1911, eighty-
nine years of age, settled on Dry creek, 1858-9; R. H. Rowles, ex-supervisor.
November 9, 1911, sixty-six years, settled in 1858; W. L. Wallace, August
27, 1883, settled in 1857, and Mrs. John Conrad, who came to the valley in
1858, died July 12, 1914, at the age of one hundred and one years.
The several school districts voted for a union high school, and a rough
building was erected last year and is now in use.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 41
CHAPTER III
Arena Township
Arena is essentially a coast township, having its western line on the ocean,
and its eastern the summit of the coast range. On the south it joins Sonoma
county, and on the north Cuffey's Cove township. In length it is about thirty
miles, and its breadth from eight to fifteen miles. Along the ocean shore lies a
strip of fertile open land, mostly under cultivation, varying from half a mile to
three miles at most ; back of that, heavy timber, with occasional openings of
grazing land, mostly too steep for cultivation. It has one large river, the Gar-
cia, and the Gualala river makes its southern boundary for about four miles.
The north fork of the Gualala rises in Arena, but is inconsiderable except in
winter. Alder creek is a large stream in winter, and always flows some water.
It is fifteen miles in length and was heavily timbered, but its headwaters are
denuded. Brush creek is a fine timber stream though only a few miles long.
North of Alder creek are two abrupt deep gulches, not dignified by any
other name than that of the settlers who first lived in their vicinity as Irish
Gulch and Mai Paso (bad pass). The narrow bench along the immediate
ocean bluff of the northern part of the township is the best land in the
county. It is a rich black wash loam from the high, timbered blufif back
of it, and the soil is often ten and fifteen feet deep, producing large crops of
grain and vegetables; potatoes, beets and carrots being largely cultivated.
Tt is essentially a dairy country, as the feed stays green until late summer,
and is supplemented by green silage of corn, beets and carrots. Corn does
not mature along the coast and is only sown for silage or green feed. Phe-
nomenal yields are often secured without fertilization. On the Garcia bot-
tom lands in 1910 Charles Bishop secured 3500 sacks of potatoes from twelve
acres, 3000 of them being produced on eight acres. In the same year on the
bench land at Bridgeport R. J. Dartt harvested as follows: Eighteen acres
black oats, 1440 bushels; twenty acres white oats, 1600 bushels; sixteen acres
wheat, 480 bushels ; twenty acres barley, 1200 bushels ; thirty-two acres hay,
96 tons; three acres potatoes, 400 sacks; and with seventy acres in pasture,
the farm keeps 265 sheep (Southdowns), sixty head of cattle, fourteen horses,
and seventy-five hogs. Scientific farming, with the use of thousands of
tons of kelp, potash producing material, will keep this land up to this point
of production for an indefinite time. Onions of two pounds, cabbage thirty-
five pounds, lettuce twenty-five inches across, and beets of one hundred and
seventeen pounds have been produced.
Going south from Point Arena one crosses numerous gulches, but no
considerable stream. The southern boundary, Gualala river, is mostly in
Sonoma county. In the watershed of this stream it has recently been esti-
mated that there is yet remaining nearly one billion feet of lumber; on the
Garcia river watershed there is nearly as much ; on the Navarro three hun-
dred million ; on Big river, fifteen hundred million, and north of that an
untold quantity that has not been estimated by timber cruisers. With all
this timber yet to cut and ship, Mendocino has a future from this industry
alone. Much timber land has been cleared of all merchantable lumber and
is now being cleared up and devoted to farming and fruit raising or being
set in eucalyptus. The redwood lands make the best of orchard land, pro-
ducing fruit crisper, more juicy and with higher flavor than the open lands
of the interior. And yet it is the belief of many thinking minds that these
lands are worth more to the nation for reforesting than for agriculture. The
42 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
redwood and tan bark oak are evergreens which sprout up from the stumps
as vigorously as willows. If the sprouts were carefully thinned to a judicious
number, the waste kept burned up, in a decade or two sawing timber would
be produced from the one, and another crop of bark and wood from the other.
Point Arena is the only considerable town in the township, and the main
shipping port for agricultural products, supplemented by bark, ties, posts,
etc. It is a town of 476 inhabitants by the last census, and was incor-
porated July 11, 1908. The town boasts nine saloons, three general
stores, three confectionery stores, harness shop, two blacksmith shops, two
barbers, one livery stable, one hardware store, three hotels (all under one
management, one closed, and one used only for lodging purposes), butcher
shop, and a millinery establishment, fire company, water works and electric
lighting, and three churches, grammar school and high school. Steamers
run to the port regularly twice a week and semi oftener, Wednesday being
steamer day, when the town will be full of teams bringing farm produce,
butter, eggs, chickens, and travelers for the city. The port is not a secure
one, and in boisterous weather is sometimes missed by even the regular
steamer. There is a long wharf and also a chute for shipping ties, etc. This
latter is of the cable variety and used only by the L. E. White Lumber Co.
Asphalt exudes from the ocean bluiif west of the town, and two attempts
have been made to obtain oil, but the casing has been pulled out of the last
and deepest, 1600 feet, and there is no prospect of another attempt for years
to come. The crude asphalt has been hauled and dumped on the street and
lasts for years. Early Settlement
As before written, during the Spanish regime Rafael Garcia received a
grant which covered all the open land in the township, and he stocked it
with large bands of cattle, finally selling his right to Don Jose Leandro
Luco for the sum of $10,000; the latter dispatched M. T. Smith and Dr. J. C.
Morse to the rancho as his agents. As heretofore written the grant was
finally rejected by the United States, and thrown open for settlement. In
1855 J. A. Hamilton, Joseph Sheppard and William Oliver came from Yolo
county with cattle and settled on the Garcia bottoms, near the old ranch
house of Garcia's agents, who also count among the earliest real settlers.
Hamilton brought with him his family. Shortly after S. B. Campbell and
family, and David and Elijah Beebee with their families settled upon either side
of the present town of Point Arena. In 1856 William Shoemake located a
farm, bought a large tract from Luco, which under the provisions for settling
the controversy the government permitted him to retain, he having held con-
tinuous possession and improving the same. The same year Fadre settled
near Bourne's Landing. In 1857 G. W. Wright, R. W. O'Neil and J. T. O'Neil
arrived. The year 1858 brought in the families of Dr. J. G. Morse, O. W.
Scott and others, while in the southern part of the township settled C. D.
Robinson at Gualala. and John Northrope and Joshua Adams located at
Ferguson's Cove. .\t about this time came J. Oliver, M. W. Barney,
J. Schrock, C. De Wolff, J. L. Gillespie. Kuffef, Willard and John Smith,
making in all about thirty families in the neighborhood at the time of the
organization of the county. In 1859 and 1860 came Sam McMulIen, S. S.
Hoyt, C. B. Pease, T. J. and Calvin Stewart, Samuel Hunter, A. W. Hall and
E. Wilsey. Of all these above mentioned so far as can be learned none are
living save the Stewarts. Mart T. Smith died in Inglenook, in Ten Mile
township, in 1913. When the mill fever was at its height. Point Arena was
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 43
the busiest town between San Francisco and Eureka. In addition to posts,
wood, ties, bark and farm produce, from three to seven mills were turning
out lumber at the rate of 200,000 feet per diem. In the near future this era
of prosperity will be duplicated, as there are vast forests back of the town
whose products must come down to the port of Point Arena. Notwith-
standing the number of saloons in the town, it is an exceedingly quiet place,
seldom the scene of any boisterous manifestations of the effects of king
alcohol; and its government is carried on with economy and conservative
management. Its distinguishing feature, which strikes a stranger forcibly,
is its steep main street, and the many levels of its sidewalks. Its educa-
tional facilities are unrivalled in any other town of its size, with its large,
commodious grammar school and high school, both new buildings costing
$3500 and $4000 respectively.
The electric light plant was put in by Albert Brown of Mendocino, in
1905. and is a midnight closing plant, though heretofore it had been an all-
night service as long as it justified. Water is supplied from springs in the
adjacent hills, and could be improved without much expense. Travel by
land up and down the coast is by stages, meeting the Northwestern Pacific
railroad at Cazadero, fifty miles south. The mails arrive from San Fran-
cisco in twelve hours. There is also a steamer service that reaches the city
in about the same time. The stage line is owned and run by J. C. Halliday
Co. and is efficient and sufficient. During the last decade all the streams
and gulches in the township have been spanned by new bridges, generally
up to grade of the road, hills circled or cut down, and general improvement
every way, rendering travel more pleasant and less expensive.
The first building on the present town site was erected by L. Wilsey,
and stocked with goods in 1859. Another store was put in that year by
Lane & Linderoos, and a saloon by S. W. McMuUen. In February, 1866,
Mart T. Smith obtained a franchise for and built a wharf. In 1870 he sold
it to Woodward & Chalfant. In 1875 it passed into the hands of C. R. Arthur,
and the records show that a large amount of shipping was done at that early
date. Soon after it passed into the hands of Wells, Russell & Co., by whom
it is now operated. The L. E. White Lumber Co. put in a cable chute for
their own use on the north side of the harbor, as also did C. W. Tindall.
Gualala, at the extreme southern end of the township and county, was
only a mill town, and is now only a hamlet, with one hotel, one store, post
office, shoe shop and blacksmith shop, and eight or ten dwellings. The
burning of the mill put a damper on enterprise here.
Bourne's Landing, two and a half miles north, is the shipping point for
this region and has a general store and a few houses. There were chutes
operated at St. Ores, a mile north, and at Robinson's, but they are no longer
in use.
iMsh Rock was once the scene of much activity, shipping timber products,
but its proprietor, C. Queen, of late years has devoted himself to orchard
work. He has 800 Baldwin trees, the entire crop being put through a dryer.
George Brandt, on the hill back of the port, has a fine large orchard from
which he has been for years shipping a fine lot of apples. Chutes have been
in operation at several other points along the coast above here up to Fer-
guson's cove, which latter once did a large business shipping ties, etc., and
the lumber and shingles for the mills at Schooner, Galloway and others
spoken of later. But this chute closed down last November for want of
profitable work and as a hamlet the place is deserted.
44 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Manchester, six miles north of Point Arena, has a fine large new school
house, two churches, one store, blacksmith shop, two creameries and hotel,
one creamery making over 500 pounds of butter per day. It is essentially a
farming community, surrounded as it is by many fine farms.
Bridgeport, six miles north, was once a thriving mercantile and shipping
place with a chute, but it was a dangerous harbor and not used long for that
purpose. The hamlet now has no business places, but half a mile south is
located a fine school house, and a creamery which operates about ten months
in the year. The effect of the earthquake of 1906 is distinctly visible in this
vicinity, large areas having been shaken loose from the steep hills abo\e the
farming lands, sliding down and covering many acres with gravel, sand and
rocks. The neighborhood of Bridgeport, next to the Garcia bottoms, is the
finest land in the county. The farms of the Walsh family, R. J. Dartt,
Ryans, Snickers, H. Bishop, C. J. Buchanan and others cannot be exceeded
in fertility, depth of soil and ease of cultivation, anywhere in the world.
These farms were nearly all damaged by the earthquake of 1S06. The line
of the fault was clearly visible from the mouth of Alder creek easterly
through many farms and far back into the mountains. Curious manifesta-
tions of its power were to be seen in the fissure, breaking the continuity of
lines of fruit trees and "fences from twelve to fourteen feet, and breaking-
rocks the size of a goose egg sharply in two. The iron bridge at the mouth
of Alder creek was torn to pieces like a cardboard house. In Point Arena
the brick buildings were generally destroyed. The Odd Fellows' two-story
building was thrown bodily endwise into the street. The L. E. White store
was also totally destroyed, while the wooden buildings sustained but little
damage. In 1893 the west side of the business street was nearly all burned
out, the only serious fire the town has ever had. Formerly there was a
tannery, but it has long since ceased its operation ; and also a brewery,
operated by Mr. Schlachter, but it, too, has been discontinued on account of
the death of the proprietor.
There are three churches. Methodist. Catholic and Presbyterian, with
resident pastors.
The first mill in the township was built by Tift & Pound, at Hard-
scratch, seven miles south of Point Arena. It was a wet weather water
mill with a forty foot overshot wheel, with a capacity of about 2000 feet
per day — sometimes. It was located on a narrow shallow gulch having a
solid water-worn rock bottom which discharged its waters over a precipice
forty feet high directly into the ocean. It had performed its mission and
departed before 1864. In 1862 .Rutherford & Webber erected a mill near
the mouth of the Gualala river of a capacity of 20,000 feet. In 1872 its
capacity was increased to 35,000. Soon after they abandoned the methods
then in vogue for bringing logs to the mill and put in a railroad to the
woods and continued it to the shipping point of Bourne's Landing, two and
a half miles north of the mill. The franchise for railroad and wharf was
granted in 1862. In 1878 a heavy southeaster destroyed the wharf and
chute, which were immediately rebuilt on improved plans and are still in
use at this date. In 1868 Mr. Webber sold his interest to Heywood & Har-
mon, and Mr. Rutherford soon afterward sold out. It was afterward moved
up the river a half mile and after being run a couple of years was sold, there-
after remaining idle for a short time, when it was destroyed by fire. The
largest redwood in the county, twenty-two feet in diameter, stood about six
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 45
miles up the river. At this date the mill property has passed into the hands
of E. B. Salsig & Co. and the mill is being rebuilt. In 1864 Russell Stevens
built a mill in Fish Rock gulch almost down to tide water. Its capacity-
was about 13,000 feet per day. It did not run long, for the machinery had
all been taken away in 1866. In 1869 a mill was erected a mile or two north
of Gualala by John Woods, cutting about 16,000 feet per diem. It was
destroyed by fire in 1872, rebuilt, moved further north, run a short time, and
was moved away.
In 1875 a mill was built at Schooner gulch by A. Saunders, who also
built a shingle mill on Brush creek. A big business was done by these two
mills for a number of years, until Saunders failed, and departed, taking with
him thousands of dollars of the hard-earned wages of his employes that had
been entrusted to his keeping. Nealon & Young succeeded him in the
Schooner Gulch mill, and ran it until 1878. The Brush creek mill was run
by the creditors, increasing its capacity somewhat, but it proved unprofitable
and was dismantled and sold.
A mill was built in Galloway gulch in 1869, cutting 50,000 per day, run
for three years, and departed. L. B. Doe & Co. erected a mill at Signal Port
about this time, that was supplied with logs by hauling them up a long hill
by steam power. It only ran a couple of years. Another was built in China
gulch, lived its brief ephemeral life and left a pile of sawdust as its monu-
ment. About this time Ross & Francis were running a small mill on their
own premises southeast of the' town about two miles. They ran a couple
of years.
In 1904 an epidemic of mills struck the neighborhood. Anderson put in
a 25,000 capacity mill ; Grace another about the same size ; Bowen another,
but all passed away in three or four years. Albert Brown equipped a 15,000
foot mill east of town in 1904, which ran one summer. At present there are
no saw mills in operation for forty miles along the coast, and Point Arena
is hauling its supply of lumber eighteen miles. In 1869 and '70, Stevens &
Whitmore built a mill on the Garcia river six miles from Point Arena. In
1872 they sold to Nickerson & Baker, who ran it for several years, cutting
about 40,000 per day. The lumber was floated down a flume six miles to the
foot of the blufif opposite the port, and there carried up the hill by means of
spiked rollers in a dry flume or track, where it was placed on cars and rail-
roaded to the head of the chute. After a few years run the mill was pur-
chased by the L. E. White Lumber Co. and was burned down in 1894, having
been idle some time. As the company has 25,000 acres of timber land in the
watershed of the river, this mill will undoubtedly be rebuilt at no distant
day, and probably a railroad built to convey either logs or lumber or both,
according to where the mill is built.
A mill was built at Bridgeport in 1874 and run on lumber, and later
shingles, for several years. It passed through several hands, and was finally
moved away. In 1870 a mill was put in on the Garcia about eight miles
from its mouth, called Riverside, which ran several years and went up in
smoke, as did most of the profits.
A paper mill, to run on oat straw, was put in on Brush creek, and ran
for ten years; at first profitable on straw at $2.50 per ton; however, the
farmers raised the price to $7 and the mill closed down and moved away.
46 :\IENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Secret Societies
One may to a certain extent judge a country town by the number and
character of its secret societies. Point Arena is fairly prosperous in this
line, though some have decayed and lost standing by reason of deaths and
removals. The Free and Accepted Masons organized the first lodge, Clai-
borne Lodge No. 185, F. & A. M., on June 14, 1867, wath the following charter
members : R. D. Handy, S. W. Randolph, Niels Iverson, N. D. Witt, William
Cushings, Charles Lyman, Alph Harris and F. W. Watrous. At the present
day the lodge is in an exceedingly prosperous condition, and numbers fifty-
one members, with the following officers : Henry Howe, W. M. ; F. W.
Reynolds, S. W. ; B. H. Baker, J- ^^^ ; John Clark, treasurer; Frank L.
Emory, secretary.
Garcia Lodge No. 240, I. O. O. P., was instituted January 4, 1876.
with the following charter members : P. Peters, W. H. Cureton, L. F.
Spaulding, D. M. Ketchum, N. Iverson arid J. B. M. Warren. The lodge
has fought its way against adverse conditions, the decline of the mill and
timber business coming upon the community soon after its organization,
but is now on a firm basis, and steadily growing from accessions from the
ranks of young manhood. In conjunction with the Masons in 1880. they
erected a two-story building, 24x60. which was dedicated May 29, 1880, the
Masons joining them in the erection of the same. The earthquake of 1906
entirely demolished the building, and the next year it was replaced by a
reinforced concrete. The present officers are : Henry Howe, N. G. ; A. H.
Clark, V. G. : \Mlliam Hanen, secretary; J. C. Halliday, treasurer.
Arena Encampment No. 75, I. O. O. F., was instituted May 18, 1886,
with charter members as follows : Joseph Lufkin, P. C. P. ; C. W. Tindall,
J. L. Woodin. Le Grand Alorse, Jacob Cohn, Aaron Newfield, John Hurst,
W. C. Cartnell, J. D. McCabe, Charles Meirs, F. W. Goodwin, H. L. Estes,
C. M. Cartwright, S. W. Collins. Joseph Tongue. John Widden. H. B. Scott,
H. S. Symonds, H. Tullener, J. S. Larson, Frank Groshong, C. Christensen,
William Heywood, E. M. Stuart, E. N. Donaldson. The Encampment has
lived and prospered through all the dull times succeeding the birth of the
Encampment. It now has the following officers : E. A. Zimmerman, C. P. ;
H. B. Scott. H. P.; A. Christensen. S. W. ; W. Haines. Scribe; C. Nicks,
treasurer; H. Tullener, I. W.
Native Sons. Broderick No. 117, was instituted Januar}' 9. 1888, with
the following list of charter members : C. W. Tindall, C. Hunter, T. O. Cal-
laghan. W. O. Davis, T. Roseman, G. Smith, William Brandt, R. Caughey,
F. Watrous, E. Arthur, P. Chane, H. L. Estes, S. Hunter, C. M. Cartwright,
H. Smith, G. Miller. F. Handy, R. Crawford, W. Myers, F. Arthur, It now
has a membership of thirty-three, with the following officers : • F. ^^^ Rey-
nolds, J. P. P.; E. A. Zimmerman, treasurer: J. P. Connor. J. P.; W. E.
Carey, secretary
Order of Eastern Star was instituted May 30. 1910, as Point Arena
Chapter 291, with the following charter members: Rev. E. E. Robbins.
W. P.; Matilda Davidson, W. M.; Kate Halliday, A. W. M.; Florence Halli-
day, Con. ; J. R. Neto. Sec. : Mabel Neto, Matilda Robbins, Olive Robbins.
James Dunn. Phoebe Dunn. Bessie Halliday, J. C. Halliday, C. F. O'Brien.
Louise O'Brien. Ethel Hathaway. Anna Iverson, Emma Watrous, Mary
A. Burroughs, Margarethe Dunn. Henry Halliday. For 1913 it has the
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 47
following officers: Lettie Zimmerman, W. M.; Jacob Kingren, W. P.; Flora
Hunter, A. M. ; Pearl Emery, secretary ; fifty-four members. There are other
societies extant, of which we have no record.
Court Arena No. 8518, Ancient Order of Foresters. Officers: C. R.,
W. C. Davidson; P. C. R., William Thomas; financial secretary, Newton P.
Howe : treasurer, William Carey. Number of members, seventy-eight.
The town of Point Arena was incorporated July 11, 1908, and the present
officers are S. W. Ainslie, J. C. Halliday, John Clark, J. ^^^ Kingren (mayor),
N. P. Howe, trustees; N. A. McCallum, clerk; J. F. Dixon, marshal; Conrad
Nicks, treasurer and recorder. The assessed value of the town for 1913
was $150,964; tax rate, fifty cents per $100, Population 497.
The Bank of Point Arena, No. 338, was incorporated June 9, 1905, with
a paid up capital $25,000. Their report for 1913 shows deposits of $87,000,
in a volume of business of $119,000. J. C. Halliday is president and P. W.
Haggreen cashier.
The building of the lighthouse on the point north of and about three
miles northwest of the town was an epoch in the history of the township.
The coast, with its abrupt rocky shore, projecting hidden reefs, and treach-
erous currents, was dangerous to experienced navigators, and infinitely more
so to those new to its waters. The lighthouse was built close out to the
end of the point, nautically located in latitude 38° 57' 10" and longitude
123° 44' 42". The light was fixed, stationary, white, and visible nineteen
nautical miles at sea. The tower was of brick one hundred and fifty-six
feet to the lamp. The earthquake of 1906 entirely destroyed the lenses and
so damaged the tower and dwelling house that the government pulled them
down and rebuilt them farther inland, as being necessary from the inroads
of the sea on the narrow point. The new one is about the same height of
the one destroyed, but has a revolving white light four flashes per minute,
five seconds duration, five seconds intermission, then twenty seconds inter-
mission. It is built of reinforced concrete, the brick of the old one having
been thrown over the bank into the ocean. The dwellings were also torn
down, and four cottages built at a cost of $6000 each, the whole costing the
government about twice what they would a private individual. Twenty-five
hundred dollars was put into gravel for the road leading to the lighthouse.
A fog signal is also established, run by distillate engine, automatic in its
action, dispensing with the services of one man over the old steam engine.
In near vicinity to the lighthouse is a large colony of sea lions, whose
hoarse growls may be heard at all hours of the day and night. At one time
they were hunted for their oil and hides, but the difficulty and danger, more
on account of the location, rather than fear of the lions, caused a cessation
of hostilities. They no doubt conduce to the scarcity of fish in their imme-
diate neighborhood, though good catches are frequent. In the fall excellent
sport is had at the mouth of Garcia river trolling for steelheads from one to
two pounds each, and in season trout fishing is excellent.
Like almost every community. Point Arena has its fashionable watering
place; in her case, medicinal, as well. The hot sulphur springs twelve miles
up the Garcia river have proved both medicinal and fashionable. Situated
in the gorge of the river, with a dense forest of redwood surrounding, it is
an ideal place to pass the hot summer months of the interior, or the cold,
foggy ones of the coast.
48 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Of shipwrecks there have been many along the bluff coast of the county,
and Point Arena has had more than her share. The beach north of the
lighthouse has been a favorite place for old vessels to close their careers,
nearly every vessel built in the township, of which there have been several,
has come back to die, some before even a full voyage has been made. This
fact procured the lighthouse, and in 1903 a life saving station was estab-
lished at the port, which at present is in charge of Captain Stitt and eight
men.
The township boasts six creameries, not all running continuously, some
private and some public or stock companies. Siples, Stornetti, C. Bishop and
H. Bishop are private, and Point Arena, Manchester and Bridgeport are
run as public. The Manchester, owned by Beck & Halliday, is the largest
and most successful, paying about ten per cent, dividend.
Point Arena has had the usual experience, with most California towns,
in being exploited by the ephemeral newspaper ventures. In 1877 John
Kester issued the first number of the News, on March 22. November 29
G. S. Afifolter and W. P. McClure assumed its responsibility and managed
it until May, 1878. when Mr. McClure retired. The following September
it bade the community good-bye.
In 1888 H. B. Cartnell founded the Record, and it still continues. It
passed into the hands of William Heeser in 1892, and was edited by R. Y.
Glidden for some time, and passed into the hands of William Hanen, who
assumed its burden in 1892. It fills all the requirements of the town, and
is really a credit to it, and the town is also a credit to the paper, for it is
seldom so small a place will support a newspaper. From its files much of
our information has been gleaned. The office work is done the old-fashioned
way, hand-setting type and press. From it we learned that an old settler,
William Shoemake, died May 16, 1881 ; he came to Point Arena in 1852 and
was one of the provident ones who were in possession of large tracts of
land when the grant was finally rejected. He had about 640 acres. August
3. 1881. fire destroyed Iversen hotel, Warren's butcher shop, Lancaster shoe
store; loss $13,000, insurance $8000. Wharf changed hands January, 1882,
and C. Queen purchased the Fish Rock property. G. Linderoos died June 1.
1885 : he was for many years justice and the legal functionary of the lower
coast. Point Arena made great growth in the years 1885-6. On June 3,
1885, the new I. O. O. F. hall was dedicated. The McMullen hotel opened
for patrons in 1886, and pottery was made at Fish Rock. B. F. McClure, a
prominent citizen and ex-supervisor, died March 15, 1887. Collins' shingle
mill was running 100,000 shingles per day. Bessie Everding lost at Bourne's
Landing, September 12, 1888; severe earthquake January 25, 1889; Charlotte
wrecked on Fish Rock, March 28, 1889; Golden Gate, May 15, 1889; Gualala
river eight feet above high water mark, January, 1895 ; San Francisco and
Oakland capitalists propose to build a railroad up the Gualala to Cazadero.
Frost spoiled the cutlook for a fruit crop in 1892. Five thousand ties were
flumed down to the port from the Garcia river, six miles, in one day. March
10. 1893, the John McCullough ashore at Fish Rock, a total wreck. April 3
fire destroyed sixteen buildings in Point Arena ; loss $32,000, insurance $10,-
000. Ancient Order of Foresters instituted at Gualala. Rebekah Lodge insti-
' tuted at Point Arena, but has lapsed. The Point Arena creamery com-
pleted. Eight hundred fish were caught in a few hours by a Gualala bull
puncher. Thirty-seven sea lions were killed during the year, yielding 250
MENDOCLVO AND LAKE COUNTIES 49
gallons of oil. Presbyterian church at Manchester, completed. The Gualala
mill averaged 175,000 feet per day one week in October. An eighteen-pound
carrot was brought into town and a thirty-five pound cabbage. Freshet
raised the railroad track over a twelve-foot stump up the Gualala, January
14, 1894, and several houses washed away. A wood and shingle mill ran at
Iversen, 1893-'94. Point Arena Creamery made 120,000 pounds of butter,
realizing ten per cent, on its stock. Hot Springs opened for guests June 5,
1895. The fog signal was moved inland one hundred and fifty yards. San
Benito wrecked on the beach north of town, November 23, 1896. April 11,
1897, fire destroyed store, several cabins and an orphans' home. October 22,
Caspar ashore Sander's reef, and several lives lost. April 15, 1898, thirty-
two shocks of earthquake; center of disturbance near Xavarro. Dr. J. C.
Morse died January 1, 1898, and his widow, August 9, 1898. They came across
the isthmus horseback in 1852, and to Point xArena in 1859, walking up from
Fish Rock, from steamer North America, wrecked there. Schooner Jeanne
ashore October 1, 1900. I. O. O. F. hall dedicated. Barbara Harvester lost
January 24, 1901. January 30, 1903, Crescent City ashore at Fish Rock;
schooner Davidson ashore at Iversen 31st of March. Gualala hotel burned
July 6, 1903. Western Graphite Co., fifteen miles east, ledge traced over half
a mile. Oil well said to have been sunk 2250 feet, was abandoned. Electricity
introduced July 28, 1905. Two swans killed on the Garcia.
The great earthquake of April 18, 1906, was very severe in Point Arena
and vicinity. Every business house in town was a junk heap; every brick
totally destroyed; many wood houses badly damaged; the loss was estimated
$100,000. The town was practically rebuilt in two years and incorporated
July, 1908. C. D. Robinson died November 6, 1906, aged eighty-four; he
settled at Gualala in 1858. Le Grand Morse died February 8, 1907. A
destructive rain visited the vicinity in March, 1907, and Garcia bridge went
out. High school building completed in Point Arena, 44x60, with ten-foot
basement, well, tank and windmill, at a cost of $5,489. J. A. Hamilton died
May 20, 1909, aged eighty-two years. Steamer Winnebago wrecked July 31.
Point Arena creamery burned September 13. but immediately rebuilt at cost
of $7,000. Sixty-two inches of rain in winter of 1908-09. December 5, Elias
Miller died, aged one hundred and three.
Elections in ten precincts on the coast on the wet and dry propositions,
resulted in increased dry territory. Phoenix steamer blew up oiif lighthouse,
August 13, 1910, three killed. March 10, 1911, high wind took up a plow
furrow on N. P. Howe's place and wrapped it around a tree. Schooner
Sonoma foundered ofT the port, crew saved. Oil operations stopped. Free
library closed and books turned over to Women's Civic Club. Ladies' band
organized February 20. Petition for breakwater to make a harbor of refuge
sent Congress. Point Arena high school accredited in 1913. Capt. N. Iversen
died June 15, 1912, aged eighty-two. For many years he was the principal
purchaser and shipper from Point Arena. In this connection A. W. Hall
should have special mention, as his business ventures in the '60s added
materially to the coast's prosperity. Lane Kirkland exhibited forty-two
potatoes which weighed 140 pounds, fifty-one which weighed 135 pounds,
and six which weighed twenty-four pounds.
50 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
CHAPTER IV
Big River Township
Originally extending along the coast from Navarro to the northern
boundary of the county, Big River township has been curtailed and sub-
divided until it now extends only from Salmon creek on the south to Hare
creek on the north, a distance of about seventeen miles, and on the east to
nearly the line of watershed between interior rivers and the coast streams ;
or more properly speaking, to the western line of Ukiah and Little Lake
townships, being about thirty miles wide. The streams flowing to the ocean
are Salmon creek, Albion, Little. Big river, and Caspar. Technically Big
river and Albion are navigable rivers, but are only so used in the immediate
mouths thereof. These two latter have been used mainly for log driving, and
that is almost superseded by railroads, which dump the logs into the booms
at the mills. All are heavily timbered on their banks, and to the tops of the
ridges there being very little open farming ground on any of them except at
the immediate coast and far on the headwaters. Redwood and fir are the
lumber trees, oak for tanbark. and madrona for little use save firewood in
some places. There are many other kinds of trees, like manzanita, chestnut
oak, black oak. post oak. alder along the streams, with blue blossom spring-
ing up wherever the timber is removed, soon forming impenetrable thickets.
All of these except black and post oak are evergreens, and sprout from the
root, making the clearing of land for agricultural purposes a labor of years.
Really, the redwood lands should never be cleared, but allowed to reforest
for future generations.
Along the immediate coast is a strip of clear land, only second rate in
quality as compared with the coast further south, but yielding fair crops of
grain and hay and vegetables, but not very good for potatoes on account of
persistent cropping with them. Just back of this strip of fertility is a sandy,
barren tract covered with dwarf huckleberries and a species of pine that
often contents itself with a height of two or three feet, though sometimes
eight to ten, and wild rhododendron bushes. This section has lately sprung
into prominence as orchard land, though only a white sand soil underlaid
with yellow clay. Water is said to be abundant at sixteen to eighteen feet
depth, but it cannot add fertility to such soil. All the coast townships have
the same climate, cool, foggy at times, the thermometer seldom ranging
higher than 85° nor lower than 30°. though there have been exceptions to
both. It is modified in many places by the conformation of the headlands
and ridges protecting certain locations, so that it is always open to dispute.
Early Settlement
As given heretofore, \\'illiam Kasten is the first known white settler,
who dates from 1850-51. He built a log cabin and claimed the north bank
of the bay. In 1851-2 a vessel en route from China to San Francisco was
wrecked at Point Cabrillo. News of this was carried down the coast to
Bodega, and a party came up to profit by the wreck. They reported on the
immense body of redwood to be found on this coast and enlisted the interest
of Harry Meiggs. but lately arrived in San Francisco, who at once took
advantage of the news and forthwith chartered a vessel, the Ontario, and
loaded her with a complete sawmill and sailed for Mendocino bay. Meiggs
almost immediatelv concluded his mill was too small for such magnificent
:\IEXDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 51
timber and sent E. C. Williams east for a more complete and larger mill,
which did not arrive on the ground until the following spring, owing to
trouble in crossing the isthmus. It was erected on the "point," the logs
being hauled up from the river on an incline. Meiggs arrived on the 19th of
July, 1852, and with him came J. E. Carlson, William H. Kelly and Capt.
D. F. Lansing. J. B. Ford arrived ten days before Meiggs with eight yoke
of oxen. As William Kasten claimed the waterfront on the north side of
the bay, Meiggs purchased it and paid for it mostly in lumber, with which
was built a house for many years occupied by William Heeser as a residence,
of course with many additions and improvements. Loyd Beall lived just
north of Little River, and sold his place to W. H. Kent, who came in 1852, as
also did Gebhard and George Hegemeyer, John C. Byrnes, Robert White,
J. P. Simpson and J. Scharf. In years succeeding 1854-5-6. arrived A. F.
Mahlman, G. C. Smith, L. L. Gray, James Townsend. Silas Coombs. Ruel
Stickney; 1865-7-8-9, Thomas Walsh, William Heeser, E. W. Blair, F. P.
Furlong, J. D. Murray, N. E. Hoak, J. F. Hills, Haskett Severance, James
Severance, C. R. Kaisen, A. Heeser followed the tide of immigration. Of these
at this date only N. E. Hoak is living. Mrs. W. H. Kent and Mrs. J. F. Hills
were the first white women to enter the new settlement. They came by the
isthmus in 1855, the second train across; from San Francisco to Petaluma
by boat, carriage to Cloverdale, thence horseback through Anderson valley
across the mountain to Greenwood, thence up the coast to their destination,
arriving in April, 1855. Capt. Peter Thompson settled at Pine Grove. Siegfrid
Caspar had a cabin at Caspar Creek, Captain Rundle at Noyo. Manuel Law-
rence at Salmon Creek.
The town of Mendocino occupies the southern slope of the point north
of the harbor, and is garnished with a veritable forest of windmills. The
main streets run east and west and are comparatively level, while the cross
streets are steep and often in poor condition. J. F. Hills stocked the first
store in 1856. William Heeser followed him soon ; then L. Woodward and
Captain Rundle. the latter soon retiring. Mr. Woodward amassed a com-
petence, though for fourteen years he did not go south of the river, purchas-
ing all his stock by letter before the days of drummers. W. H. Kelly also
engaged in the store business for many years. J. D. Murray was the first
druggist. Eugene Brown engaged in merchandising in 1865 and continued
until 1909. The early experience of Mendocino's merchants in obtaining
goods from San Francisco was often heart 'rending and purse bursting. In
December, 1871, Mr. Brown lost a consignment of goods by the wreck of
the Brilliant; a duplicate order was lost on the bar at San Francisco; the
third order reached him safely. Other merchants lost heavily in the numerous
shipwrecks prior to 1870. there being thirty of record up to that date. The
most disastrous as to loss of life were the Chilian vessel La Paz; the Cabot,
twelve lives lost; and a small schooner of one hundred and fifty tons which
was sucked into the "blow hole" on the south side of the bay. As she went
into the cavern several of her crew were rescued by ropes in the hands of
Charley Carlson and W. H. Kelly. Many have doubted the truth of this
story, but it is authenticated by the best of evidence, and the cavern has
been explored by Eugene Brown and others. It has been reported to be of
great length, but actually one hundred and fifty feet. The night of Novem-
ber 20, 1865, was memorable as that of the most disastrous storm known on
this coast, when ten vessels went ashore on the Mendocino coast.
:^2 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Among- the early settlers of Mendocino who led long and useful lives
might be mentioned J. B. Ford, D. F. Lansing, W. H. Kelly, E. C. Williams,
S. W. Hills, Eugene" Brown, D. B. Millikin, all enterprising, public-spirited
citizens, only two of whom are now living — Millikin and Eugene Brown.
William Heeser bought of ^^'. H. Kelly for $6,CO0, in 1858, the farm so long
owned by him, and probably the first to be cultivated in the township. It
comprised all the point west of Main street save a strip next that street
which Mr. Kelly reserved for town lots. It is still held by Mr. Heeser's son,
except such portion as has been sold for town lots. As early as 1863 Mendo-
cino possessed gcod hotels, on iMain street, and several were built later. At
that date there were Carlson's, Osborne & Heldt, and the St. Nicholas kept
by Ben Severance, which latter was burned October 20, 1870, and with it
twenty-five other buildings, the only serious fire the town has ever had.
Recently a pipe and tank system of water has been installed, which will be
sufficient for any ordinary fire. The town is lighted by electricity, brought
from Ft. Bragg by Henshaw, Buckley & Co. in 1899. Within the last two
years the town or rather precinct has voted on prohibition twice, which was
successful both times, and it is predicted that it will always stay "dry," so
satisfactory has the experiment proved to both the business men and the
people. As one landlady expressed the result, "I do not do quite so much
business, but I get my money for what I do." The merchants also express
themselves in similar terms as to compensation, but assert increase of
business.
The pay roll of the mill and timber camps, ties, bark and post sales, are
the main support of the town, as the farming products do not furnish a tithe
of the consumption of the town. Jarvis & Nichols, the principal dealers in
ties, had 125,000 piled upon the landing in 1911, most of which were shipped
the following season.
Of business houses there are the following in the town ; Four hotels,
five general merchandise, two groceries, one photographer, one confectionery,
one shoe shop, two blacksmiths, one butcher, one livery stable, one imder-
taker, two jewelers, four soft drink saloons, two shoemakers, one moving
picture show, three barber shops, one bakery, one billiard parlor, one harness
shop, two drug stores, two lodging houses. There are of professional men
three notaries, two doctors and three of the ministerial profession — Presby-
terian, Baptist and Catholic.
The "Beacon" is the only newspaper in the town, and is ably edited and
managed by its proprietor. A. A. Heeser, son of its founder, William Heeser.
It was established October 6, 1877, succeeding after an interval, the "Star,"
for a short time published by M. J. C. Galvin. It supplies all that is required
in a local paper, is fully alive to the needs and interests of the community,
and has a good circulation and the latest in printing facilities, a Simplex
type casting machine and power press. There are many fine residences in
the town, and so situated on the elevated slope as to give a beautiful view
of the ocean, the bay, and the wooded slope beyond. On the highest point
of the ridge west of town is situated a fine high school building, with a corps
of efficient teachers, and near by the Catholic church ; farther east in an
elegant location is the grammar school. The Presbyterian church is in the
center of a lawn on the main street. The town has regular steamer service
with the city, besides the lumber vessels coming in at all times. Mail stages
up and down the coast connect it with railroads at Fort Bragg and Cazadero,
mp:xd()cixc) and lake counties 53
mails coming through from San Francisco in twelve hours. The climate is
such that in sheltered locations fuschias and geraniums keep green the year
round, and apples, pears, quinces and plums grow to perfection. All the
vegetables, except corn and tomatoes, flourish and new land produces the
finest pctatoes in the world.
Of secret societies Mendocino possesses- a superfluity. The Independent
Order of Odd Fellows was the first to organize in the town. Stella Lodge
No. 213 was instituted November 22, 1872, with the following charter mem-
bers : ■ J. F. Nichols, M. J. C. Galvin, N. Iversen, W. H. Cureton, George
Sanders, and J. E. Kennedy. The first officers were, J. F. Nichols, N. G. ;
M. J. C. Galvin, V. G. : N. \V. Lane, secretary. The lodge has flourished,
built two halls and now numbers one hundred and sixty-nine members. The
present officers are: William Fleming, N. G. ; L. P. Hanson, V. G. ; G. W.
Jarvis, secretary; Eugene Bailey, treasurer. The hall now in use by this
Order was built in 1893, two stories. The lower story is used as a general
?ssembly room, and for general public purposes. The upper story con-
tains the lodge room proper, ante rooms, and in front dressing and card room
and library. In the rear is a fine banquet room and kitchen. The building
cost over $9000 and is a useful ornament to the town and a monument to the
Order.
Mendocino Lodge No. 179, F. & A. M., was instituted in October, 1865.
Its first officers, under dispensation, were E. J. Albertson, W. M. ; William
Heeser, S. W.; G. R. Lowell, J. W.; R. G. Coombs, treasurer, G. C. Smith,
secretary. The charter members included the above and F. B. Lowell,
J. Gschwend, Silas Coombs, I. Stevens and William Booth. A hall was built
in 1866, by stock subscription, which has all passed into the ownership of the
lodge. To its first Worthy Master, E. J. Albertson, much of the ornamenta-
tion, for which the hall is remarkable, is to be credited. He worked long
and faithfully upon it, without hope of reward. Its present membership is
one hundred and thirty-two and the present officers are J. H- Chambers.
W. M. ; George E. Bassett, S. W. ; H. A. Atwood, J. W. ; John A. Chambers,
secretary; H. H. Jarvis, treasurer.
Ocean View Chapter No. Ill, O. E. S., instituted September 19, 1891,
with officers as follows: Emily McCornack, W. M.; Elizabeth J. Clark,
A. W. M. ; C. J. Wood, Secy. ; Mary J. Paddleford, Treas. ; C. W. White, W. P.
Present officers: Florence N. Weber, W. M.; Ava L. Valentine, W. A. M. ;
George Bassett, W. P. ; O. Tarmlund, Treas.; Nannie M. Flood, Secy. Xuni-
ber of members, one hundred and twenty.
Mendocino Lodge No. 70, A. O. U. W., was instituted December 7, 1878,
with the following charter members: B. F. Higgins, G. H. Bowman, D. N.
Le Ballister, John Sorowski. T. R. Smith, E. W. Potter. J. McCroden, A.
Freding, O. Hamilton and N. E. Hoak. The first officers were G. H. Bow-
man, W. M.; D. N. LeBallister, F. ; J. Sorowski, O. ; T. R. Smith, recorder;
E. W. Potter, Fin.; J. McCroden, Rec. For years it was one of the most
flourishing of the Orders in the town, but death and depression of the lumber
trade thinned its membership until now only a handful remain faithful. Its
officers now are: C. L. Knight, M. W. ; E. S. Knight. F. ; J. D. Silveria, O. ;
Wm. T. ^Vallace, recorder.
Council Amor da Sociedade No. 41, S. P. R. S. I., was instituted Septem-
ber 15, 1901, with twelve charter members as follows: Maria J. Ramus,
Henrietta C. Silva, Mayme C. Lopes. Anna F. Luiz, Maria P. Silva. Maria
54 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
G. Brown, Joaquina King, Mariana Pimental, Emilia V. Lemas, Maria C.
Machado, Maria S. Neto, Rosa T. Ramus. Present officers: Anna M. Gon-
salves, Pres. : Henrietta C. Silva, V. P.; Mariana Pimental, Secy.; Frances
Escobar, Mes. of Cores. ; Adelaide C. Silva, Mar. ; Joaquina King, G. Number
of members, sixty-six. The initials S. P. R. S. I. are the abbreviation of
Sociedade Portugueza Rainha Santa Isabel, or Portuguese Society of Queen
St. Elizabeth, which has a membership of about six thousand, with a grand
lodge in Oakland and eighty-five subordinate lodges in California.
Far West Rebekah Lodge No. 176 was instituted October 22, 1891, with
the following charter members : B. W. Bowden, G. H. Bowman, A. F. Mahl-
man, J- O'Donnell, G. B. Bever, J. Seimore, H. L. Frederick, George Switzer,
Mary S. Bever, Emily McCornack, W. A. McCornack. The present member-
ship is ninety-seven and the elective officers are Jennie Swansen, N. G. ; Marie
Iversen, V. G. ; Lena Bowman, Secy. ; Annie Brown, Treas.
Mendocino No. 88, R. A. M., was instituted September 5, 1903, with the
following charter members : William A. Butterfield, Joshua Grindle, Wil-
liam Heeser, Fred Hailing, Henry B. Hickey, H. H. Jarvis, J. A. Nelson,
C. O. Packard, C. J. Wood. The first officers were John Leishman, H. P. ;
J. C. Rice, King; Frank Hall, Scribe; H. H. Jarvis, Treas.; Charles Banker,
Secy. The present officers are W. H. Higgins, H. P. ; Frederick Hailing,
Scribe; J. C. Rice, King; H. H. Jarvis, Treas.; Charles Banker. Secy. Num-
ber of members, sixty-eight.
Waw Beck Tribe No. 164, I. O. R. M., was instituted June 7, 1905, with
charter members as follows : R. R. Armas, William Shaw, William Emerick,
Alex Cameron, Harold Switzer, A. O. Sjaland, John Zellerhend, James
Cooney, A. W. Biggers, J- M. Gwin, A. J- Scott, John Flanagan, S. A. Bloyd,
W. P. Howe, F. E. Lermond, William Fleming, H. G. Bowens, J. W. Millikin,
C. A. Tracy, William Spangle, T. S. Wallace, J. S. Tongg, Chester Byrne.
George Hoe, C. H. Nichols, C. F. Bond, F. C. Peirsol and C. F. McDernitt.
Present membership one hundred and thirty-five. Present officers are : Hel-
mer Olson, Sachem; Simon Boos, Sen. Sagamore; Albert Brien, J. S. ;
William Shaw, C. of P. Membership, one hundred and thirty-five.
Pepperwood Camp No. 756, W. O. W., was instituted June 24, 1903,
with ten charter members as follows : H. C. Tanner, Fred Post, C. V. Brere-
ton, T. W. Hoak, J. N. Garvin, H. G. Bowens, C. B. Johnson, O. O. Boggs,
Theo. Hansen, C. D. Tindall. Present membership, fifty-five. Present offi-
cers: William Shaw, C. C. ; James Porterfield, A. L. ; Charles Banker,
Clerk; Olaf Tannlund, Banker.
Society Consuelho Luiz de Canoes No. 6, U. P. E. C, instituted in
February, 1889. Present officers : Mattie Osborne, Pres. ; Antone Pacheco.
V. Pres. ; Frank Valladae, Secy. ; Antone C. Noyo, Treas. ; J. S. Valladao,
M. of C. ; J. J. Brown, G. of G. ; J. A. Brown, G. of Ex. Number of members,
seventy-six.
• Consello Estrella du Norte No. 62, I. D. E. S., was instituted March 27,
1904. Present officers: H. V. Silva, Pres.; J. M. Fraga, V. P.; J. R. Rod-
eriques. Secy. ; A. M. Fraga, Treas.
West Coast Encampment No. 70, I. O. O. F., present membership,
fifty-nine. Present officers: H. L. Mallory, C. P.; P. Gramstead, H. P.;
Robert Law, S. W. ; G. W. Jarvis, Scribe; Eugene Bailey. J. W. ; William
Fleming, Treas.
MENDOCIN'O AND LAKE COUNTIES 55
The harbor is a bay at the mouth of Big river, or "Booldam," as the
Indians, called it. It is almost circular, and nearly land locked, but open
to the southeast, from which point come the most destructive gales. The
government has been repeatedly importuned to build a breakwater, and thus
create a harbor of refuge for distressed vessels in time of storm — the only
one between San Francisco and Oregon. It is roomy and deep and would
accommodate several vessels at one time. The northern side turns around
to the south in a curve, and on its point is located the shipping cable, over
which everything goes and comes, and so complete and expeditious is it
that a large ship is loaded with lumber in a day. The "Point" is pierced by
the action of the water, so that a row boat can go through from side to side,
and in stormy times the dash of the waves makes the rock tremble. Several
vessels have been lost in the harbor from the parting of their moorings,
four or five totally, and as many more that were repaired and floated. The
saw mill was first built on the point, but for many years it has been on the
flat about half a mile up the river. Meiggs' schemes and plans proved to
be too far in advance, and too expensive for the times, and the mill property
passed into the hands of his principal creditors, GodefYroy, Sillem & Co.,
E. C. Williams, J. B. Ford, and others, who for many years, with varying
fortunes, through many vicissitudes, carried it on until it gave each of them
a fortune.
The logging was done by river-driving, and occasionally a season's
work went to sea on the crest of a flood. D. B. Millikin for many years was
logger for the company, at so much per thousand, logs delivered in the boom,
the company paying all bills and settling up at the end of the season. Lost
logs were the logger's loss and at one time Millikin was $40,000 in debt to
the company. Two successful seasons evened up, and left him a competence,
which he invested in Fresno vineyards, and he is the only one living of all the
old timber men of the early days.
This system of logging obtained on all the rivers of the coast, the
Gualala, Garcia. Xavarro, Big River, Noyo, and Albion. Now only Big
River is using it. And here they have a railroad seven miles long, built in
1893, which is used to supplement the river driving in dry seasons, or emerg-
ency calls for specific cargoes. The capacity of the mill is 100,000 feet, but
at one time 300,000 feet was forced through it in one day uf less than twelve
hours on a competitive sawing with Little River mill. It has been burned
and rebuilt once.
Salmon Creek, which lies a mile south of .Mbion, was once a busy milling
village with two stores, two hotels, two big mills and several saloons, but
is now a dead burg, affording refuge to one disreputable saloon, which has
been purged by fire as we write. The timber is all cut, and the two mills
that shrilly whistled hundreds of hardy woodsmen to labor are things of the
past. Prosperous ranches occupy the hills where once the lofty redwood
and fir swayed to the ocean breeze, or the wild blue blossom presents its
tangled front. Once an hundred thousand feet of lumber and thousands of
ties were shipped each day from its wharf, where safe anchorage for one
vessel was secured. Xow nothing more than a fishing boat ever ties up at it.
Albion, on the mouth of the river of the same name, six miles south of
Mendocino, is a mill town of as busy an appearance as any one could wish
to see. The mill, lumber yard, store, hotel, and the cabins of the mill hands
occuDv all the flat along the river, while the residences of business men, a
56 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
store or two, another hotel, are ranged along the hill on either side of the
river, mostly up a steep grade. A drawbridge confronts one at the foot of
the steep grade on the south side, and from its northern end one gropes
along under huge platforms supporting the tracks which carry from the mill
its entire output. In former days vessels were occasionally run above the
bridge to load from the wharf, or for security in a great storm when more
than one was in the harbor. But of late years this has not been done, as
there is not water enough for the larger size of vessels now used, and sub-
stantial wharves and moorings have been provided in the harbor for even
deep water freighters from foreign ports, of which at one time there were
four in for loads. For many years it was essentially and exclusively a mill
town, its business dominated by the mill owners, and to a great extent is
now. The first known settlement was made here by Scharf, who in 1853
built a water mill for Captain Richardson, the claimant of the grant reaching
from the Albion to the Garcia. It could not have had more than an ephemeral
existence, as Rawson & Rutherford were exploiting the place in 1855-6. tc
be succeeded by Alerrit & Lawrence, then A. G. Dallas, and he by A. W.
McPherson. The history of the town is but the history of mill operations,
as the mill proprietors transacted all business for some time after the erection
of the mill. The first mill was burned in 1867. and a new one of 35.000 feet
capacity was at once erected by McPherson, who soon after was joined in
the enterprise by Henry Wetherby. L. E. White was bookkeeper for the
firm, and finally stocked a store and saloon, and later a hotel, and was
eminently successful in all. as all the pay roll passed through his hands.
In 1861 James Townsend. superintendent of the mill, became associated with
him. and the finn launched out into the tie business and for many years
controlled it. In the same year Townsend moved to Noyo and took charge
of that mill also. He also was interested with Fred Brown in a store at
Noyo. and with Joseph Carroll in a store on Eel river in Humboldt county.
These two men were the business men of the coast for twenty-five years
and made history in their extensive operations in lumber, timber, railroads
and mills. Of late years the mill operations have assumed a more settled
and comprehensive form, by the building of railroad, purchase of large
tracts of timber land, and great improvements in machinery, dry houses and
wharves, which have had the effect of encouraging dwellings of a more
substantial character than the cabins of the mill hands, and the establish-
ment of stores and hotels other than those of the mill company. There are
now three general stores, three hotels, one confectionery, one blacksmith
shop, two barbers, and a hospital, and about twenty good dwellings, school
house, hall, and church. The railroad has been extended to and past Wend-
ling, in the lower end of Anderson, and is eventually expected to connect
with the California Northwestern at Healdsburg. The mill and its adjuncts.
timber, etc., passed into the hands of the Southern Pacific in September.
1907, with its twenty-four thousand acres of timber land at a stated price of
$900,000. The milfhas a capacity of 110,000 feet per diem, 30.000.000 feet
being its output for 1913. Hickey & Co., who previously owned the prop-
erty, are said to have purchased forty thousand acres of redwood timber,
mainly in Humboldt county.
There is quite a body of good farming land contiguous to the town,
mainly south, and much timber land has been cleared and now in fruit, which
takes the first premium wherever exhibited. At Salmon Creek a creamery
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 57
has Ijeeii in successful operation some years. For many years the logging
on the Albion was done by river driving, but the timber has been taken off
for sixteen miles up the stream and the volume of water up there is too
inconsiderable, unless expensive dams are built to be let loose in times of
heavy rains. In an early day when Fred Brown was doing the logging, a
chute was used to put the logs down into the river some two miles from
the mill. It was a quarter of a mile long, and logs smoked as they went
down.
Little River, two miles south of Mendocino, is now essentially a resi-
dence town with one store, one hotel, and about sixteen dwellings, a church,
school house, and blacksmith shop. There is an excellent small harbor at
this place, where steamers often run in when it is too rough to land in any
other harbor in the county, or between San Francisco and Oregon. Years
ago a vessel came in during a foggy night without intention on the part of
her crew, much to the captain's astonishment in the morning. A few ties
and some bark and posts are shipped at this time. Ruel Stickney, Silas
Coombs .and Tapping Reeves built the town when they built their mill in
1864. But the amount of timber available was soon exhausted, though the
mill was once rebuilt after a fire. No vestige of the mill now remains, and
some buildings have succumbed to time and neglect. The early settlers,
W. H. Kent. Ruel Stickney, Tapping Reeves, Silas Coombs, Charles Perkins,
A. F. Alahlman, Isaiah Stevens, Richard Coombs, Charles Pullen. have passed
to the great be3'ond. and their children and grandchildren perpetuate the
family names in school, church and business. Little River was at one time
a lively ship-building port. Capt. Thomas H. Peterson having built twenty
schooners there.
Caspar, five miles north of Mendocino, is another town built primarily
by the mill business, though it has something in the way of agriculture and
orcharding to give it support. It took its name from a German who first settled
there at some unknown date. The harbor is little more than an open road-
stead and is avoided in n ugh weather. The mill was built in 1861 by
Kelly & Rundle, and passed into the hands of J. G. Jackson in 1864. Outside
of the mill company the first business set up there was a saloon by George
Heldt, though Pine Grove, three-fourths of a mile south, provided a hotel
and bar which up to that time accommodated the thirsty. This may be
considered as part of Caspar, as it drew all its support therefrnm and was
for many years owned by Harry Kier, who made a fortune cashing orders
for mill hands, acting as banker for them, and loaning money deposited with
him. Capt. Peter Thompson was the first settler at Pine Grove, and farmed
a little and ran a band of cattle there in 1853. Harry Kier sold out to Sever-
ance and Maxwell, but they did not long continue, as the erection of other
business houses at Caspar proper cut off the patronage from Pine Grove.
A brewery was maintained here from 1873 for a number of years, but was
discontinued for want of patronage. There are now four or five dwellings,
and it is a farming community. Brown & Wooster ran a store here in the
'60s. .\ government lighthouse has been recently erected on the point west,
called Cabrillo Point. It is a revolving ten-second flash light and is visible
fifteen miles. Three cottages have also been provided for the crew and
wrecked people. Harry Harrison built the first hotel in Caspar, about where
the company's store now stands. The writer must have been his first
patron, for a blanket on the bare floor was the only bedroom equipment fur-
58 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COL'NTIES
nished, and that under the eaves where it was not fully closed in from the
night air. The town consists of some thirty or forty dwellings, two stores,
two hotels, and at present writing no saloons, the territory having been
"dry" for the last three years.
The mill is up-to-date in every particular and has a capacity of 75,000
feet. Its logs are brought by rail from the Noyo watershed and are shot
down into the dam at the mill with startling efifect upon a strange horse
passing. The mill was burned in 1888, but was immediately rebuilt ; loss,
$75,000; insurance, $20,000. Upon the death of J- G. Jackson the property
passed into the hands of his daughter, Mrs. Abbie Krebbs, who, with the
assistance of her son, C. J. Wood, has successfully conducted it. The com-
pany has an orchard of eighty acres on cleared redwood lands that in 1911
yielded 10,000 boxes of apples of a quality far superior to the far-famed
Watsonville fruit. There have been secret societies here, but all passed away
long ago except the I. O. G. T., which flourished apace, and the result has
been a dry town, and Court Caspar No. 8217, which was instituted May 15,
1894. The principal officers at the present time are George Allen, C. R. ;
Randolph Pfiester, S. C. ; Arch Bailey, P. C. F. ; Cecil Gregor, Fin. Sec. ; Gus
C. G. Wahlstrom, Treas.
The Caspar, South Fork and Eastern Railroad was incorporated |ulv 7,
1903, with $500,000 capital. r^. ,
' Chronology
October, 1879, Schooner Annie Stofifer ashore at Caspar. February 3,
1880, Schooner Norwester wrecked at Little River. February 19, A. W.
McPherson died, aged fifty-six years. He was agent for the English firm
of A. G. Dallas, and built and ran the Albion mill for them. Afterwards
became its owner, with Wetherbee, as also the Noyo mill. March 6, Bever
hotel burned; loss $5000, insurance $3200. .\ugust 24, a sixteen year old
boy killed three bear at Half Way House. February, 1881, Albion mill
passed into hands of A. W. Starbird. Thirteen schooners were loaded in
ten days. A pear tree at Pine Grove yielded twenty bushels pears. By the
breaking of a chain a team of oxen went over a bank, killing five. Little
River school opened with eighty-one pupils. J. S. Kimball opened up a
store at Whitesboro. July 22, 1882, eight whales spouted along Mendocino.
November 20, five schooners went ashore between Navarro and Westport,
Tie output for 1883, 880,000. A reading room was established in Mendocino.
Albion freshets brought down 32,000 logs. August 20, 1884, Charles Pullen,
Sr., died at Little River. He was a fine mechanic, who assisted in, or erected
the Little River mill, several bridges, and left a large family of mechanics to
continue his work. Game so plentiful that A. Davenport in four days' hunt
killed a six hundred pound bear, six deer and a panther. Apples weighing
from sixteen to twenty-nine and one-half ounces on exhibition. Winter
rains began December 15, 1884. February 1, 1885, Little River ashore, and
a total loss in Little River harbor, where she was built. Isaiah Stevens, a
Little River pioneer, died December 10, 1885, seventy-six years of age.
August, 1884, Caspar Co. bridged Jug Handle creek, for logging railroad,
high and long; it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1906 and rebuilt.
Electric light introduced at Caspar January, 1887, January 6, 1887, Irma
and George R. Higgins ashore at Whitesboro. .^pril 9, 1887, J. Eppinger at
Navarro, and the Pet at Albion, ashore. May 11, 1887, schooners Albion,
Champion, Charlotte, and a tug, ashore at Navarm. Tulv 9. 1887, Mendocino
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 59
procured a fire engine. January, 1888, twenty thousand logs came down
Big river. Z. B. Heywood wrecked at Navarro. Haskett Severance died at
Navarro, April 19, 1888. J. B. Ford died in Oakland, October 25, 1889.
C. W. Denslow died September 25, 1889, aged seventy-five years. Henry
Witherbee died January 29, 1892. E. W. Blair died May 4, 1892, aged fifty-
five years. J. D. Murray died May 25, 1892. All pioneers.
Albion logging train wrecked by a bull and three men killed, June 13,
1893. Navarro mill shut down September 25, 1893, $500,000 in debt. Little
River mill closed up its career, August 20, 1893.
Mendocino high school dedicated May 11, 1894, accredited July, 1897.
L. E. White gave orders that all married woodsmen should be given employ-
ment in his tie camps, although there was already an oversupply of ties.
J. C. Byrnes died January 18, 1894.
S. W. McMuflen killed by accident, April 26, 1895. August 18, 1895, a
mail route was inaugurated fmm Philo to Greenwood. A combination of all
the coast saw mills was again attempted in 1895, to limit production. W. H.
Kelly died December, 1905, aged eighty-four, a pioneer. He practically
built the Baptist church at Mendocino.
A tidal wave of over seven feet struck the coast between 2 and 4 p. m.,
June 17, 1856. Randlett hotel burned in Little River, October 29, 1896.
A. W. Hall died February 6, 1897, seventy-three years of age. Capt. Samuel
Blair died May 31, 1897. Wintzer store burned at Navarro, July 12, 1897.
A ledge of iron ore and polarized gravel discovered at Mendocino.
Nolan's hotel burned at Caspar, April 9, 1898. Bobolink ashore on Kent's
Point, March 22, 1898. Earthquake damaged Albion railroad several thousand
dollars, April 14, 1898. Store fired, December 25, 1898. Ruel Stickney died,
January 12, 1899, aged seventy-five years. J. E. Carlson died, April 16, 1899,
aged seventy-seven years. Fire destroyed Gorman barn. Mendocino, and five
horses, six coaches and buggies. Mendocino Discount Bank placed in liqui-
dation. Albion steam schooner sailed for Alaska with 500 reindeer.
Little River shipped 100,000 ties in 1899. The timber king, Weyerhauser,
ow.ning a million acres in Western Washington, contemplated investments in
Humboldt, but failed to make them. Albion Mill burned September 29,
1900, with 19,000,000 feet of lumber; loss, $130,000. Schooner Sunol burned
at Little River October 23, 1900. James Townsend died December 21, 1900,
aged seventy years. Kaisen tract of timber sold at $30 per acre. Creamery
established at Whitesboro, February, 1901. J. G. Jackson died April 17, 1901,
aged eighty-four years. An oar of the Steamer Rio Janeiro was picked up
in the Mendocino harbor April 15. 1901. G. Hagemyer died May 13, 1901.
Dayton Torrence, five years old, playing in a tie chute, was hit by a tie, fell
back on it, and was carried to the end without injury, at the speed of a mile
in eighteen seconds. Almost a famine along the coast on account of vessels
being" tied up bv a strike. 105,000 ties on the bank at Mendocino October,
1901.
February, 1902, 17.26 inches of rain. Wire chute put in on the point
March, 1902, making loading much more expeditious. April 12, 1902, Men-
docino Mill started up on the north side, having been idle fifteen years. She
cut 51,375 feet from eleven logs out of one tree. At loggers' scale, the logger
would receive $250 for it. Albion railroad surveyed (and incorporated) to
Guntley's in Anderson, and mill completed, with electric lights installed.
Ten-hour schedule adopted, 1902. C. A. Perkins died in July, 1902, aged
60 MENDUCINU AND LAKE COUNTIES
sixty-three years. The Ford family sold out their holdings in the Mendocino
Mill Co. to J. L. Ross. Charles Fletcher died August 14. 1902, aged eighty-
three years. Navarro Mill burned November 7, 1902.
February 7, 1903, six inches snow at Comptche. Stage held up near
there February, 1903. Mendocino Mill cut 572,000 feet in six days in Feb-
ruary, 1903. Severance Hotel at Navarro burned March 7. 1903. Again is
a combination of mills attempted. Rainfall for season, 1903-04: Mendocino,
44.37; Branscomb, 118; Ukiah, 51.49; Westport, 82.13 inches. Frank Farnier
died October 3, 1904, aged one hundred and four years. Sotoyome launched
at Albion January, 1904. New Catholic Church at Mendocino, 40x96, and
Monastery, 30x71.
J. E. Chalfant died April 1, 1905, aged eighty years. Bank of Com-
merce opened at Mendocino August 6, 1905. Results of accidents in one
year ending September 30, 1905: Death, 9; serious, 26. Violence: Death,
4; serious, 2; suicide, 5. Mendocino Lumber Co. changes name to Mendo-
cino Redwood Co., December 30, 1905. 20,000,000 feet cut in 1905. 24,000
logs in boom January, 1906. In three days, 7.12 inches of rain. W. H.
Kent died January 29, 1906. aged eighty-five years. Albion Mill cutting
142.000 feet" daily.' Seven dry kilns of capacity of 450,000 feet ; 22.000,000
in 1905. William Heeser died April 9, 1906', aged eighty-three years. The
earthquake of April 18, 1906, shook down nearly every chimney in Mendo-
cino. Occidental hotel moved five feet. Mill twisted out of true. High
school off its foundation. Monuments thrown down. Span of bridge down.
Mill chimney built in 1864, of 1,000.000 brick, thrown down. From seven
days' rain. 16.81 inches. February, 1907, water works put in for fire pur-
poses. August Heeser died September 23, 1907. Contract let for Point Ca-
brillo lighthouse, three dwellings and barn. Flashlight every ten seconds.
Rain October 14. 1908. Fifteen hundred logs (800,000 feet lumber) rafted
from boom to mill one day by three men.
S. W. Hills died July 10, 1909, aged eighty-four years. Smokestack of
mill rusted olif and fell September 29, 1509; had been up only three years.
Experiment of making heavy wrapping paper from redwood bark, etc., suc-
cessful ; five tons of waste will make one ton paper ; gallon of alcohol from
six cubic feet of waste. On Stillwell ranch reported mine bearing silver,
gold, tin, copper (not ready coined). In jMendocino boom 20,000 logs Jan-
uary 21, 1911. September 7, 1912, rainfall for week, 4.25 inches. Apple fair,
October 23 to 27, 1912. and November 18 to 22. 1913. Improvements in Big
River mill of the latest patents in saws, steam rigger, Prescott carriage,
simplifies and decreases the manual labor. The mill company owns about
35,000 acres of timber land, having on it about 1,500,000,000 feet of timber.
which is estimated to be 40 per cent of the timber on the Big River drainage
basin.
The Rank of Commerce is the onlv one now doing business at Mendo-
cino. Its report for December 27, 1913, is as follows: Capital stock paid in.
$25,000; surplus, $10,100; cash on hand, $17,412; deposits subject to check,
$129,218.75. John S. Ross, vice-president; J. N. Rea, cashier.
The future of the town seems assured for years to come, as the mill
company owns 35,000 acres of timber land, which is forty per cent of the
estimated acreage on the tributaries of Big River, and the greater portion
of the balance necessarih^ will pass through their mill.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 61
It would not be fair to close "Big River's" history without allusiun to
Comptche, sixteen miles east of Mendocino City, on the headwaters of the
Albion. Originally a lumber camp, with small areas of open land scattered
through the timber, by clearing up the land after the loggers were through,
quite a prosperous settlement has resulted, which supports two good schools
and some fine orchards. It is here that thousands of gum trees have been
planted on the denuded lands of the Albion company. For some years there
has been a creamery in operation here, sustained by alfalfa on cleared stump
land. A shake mill has been operated here, and thousands of ties made in
the vicinity. The Albion mill has been logging here for some years past.
There is a large body of the finest timber in the township here, which was
sold to an eastern speculator, to be taken oS in ten years, with a proviso
that it might remain longer on certain conditions. By suit in court, it has
been determined that only four and one-half years more are allowed.
CHAPTER V
Ten Mile Township
Ten Mile township extends akmg the coast from Hare creek (half a mile
south of Noyo river) to Chadbourne gulch on the north. There is but one
considerable town in it, Fort Bragg, whose population is 2403.
There is but little open land in this township, most of it being densely
timbered, with a strip along the southern coast part covered with brush and
scraggly pine. Much of this latter has been cleared out in the last ten years
and made available for gardens and building lots. In the northern part of
the township is as fine land as ever was cultivated and there are three large
dairies maintained there. Here, too, is one of the longest beaches on the
county's coast, with two smaller ones, to break the monotony of the bleak
black bluff which presents its cold shoulder to the mariner. The whole
story of the township centers about Fort Bragg, which is the liveliest, busiest
town in the county. It was incorporated in 1889, with C. R. Johnson, V. J.
Westover, F. Bucholtz, T. Clark and H. A. Weller as trustees; F. A. Whip-
ple, recorder; J. Wintzer, treasurer; J. C. White, marshal; Fire Commission-
ers, C. Stewart, J. Randolph and J. Bucholtz. In 1914 the following officers
were elected: Sam Shafsky, Mayor; E. E. Brown, D. Miller, C. W. Mero,
W. H. Dixon, trustees; clerk, O. L. Johnson; marshal, F. J. Smith; treasurer,
H. W. Little. Population. 2408; assessed value, $746,000; tax rate, $1.98 on
the $100. Date of incorporation, August 5, 1889. Territory one mile square.
The first school, a private one, was organized in 1887, and the first school
house was built in 1889. In 1895, a fine grammar school house was erected,
two-story and basement. In 1901 the high school building was erected at
a cost of $17,000, employing five teachers, with an attendance of seventy-five.
In 1911 the high school pupils issued a most clever and delightful
brochure entitled, "Breath of Ocean," which for interest and information
is the equal of any college publication in the state.
The town has had its catastrophies, but no trace of them remains. The
worst was the earthquake of 1906, which leveled the I. O. O. F. hall, a brick
structure, and others of like construction, but its chief damage was to chim-
neys, and the fire consequent upon it. which swept through the principal
62 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
business block, entailing a loss of $800,000. Like every other place, it had
its vagaries in upsetting safes, and respecting jardiniers, throwing doors
into the street, and leaving windows on either side intact ; upsetting a huge
printing press and leaving a type rack undisturbed.
The streets are graded, but not paved ; sidewalks cemented in the main
part of town, and seme of the residence districts. The town is supplied with
water from mountain springs, and also has a pipe system from the mill for
use in case of fire. The mill also supplies electricit)^ at the rate of twelve
cents per watt. Excellent order is maintained, and a cement calaboose con-
tributes to its enforcement. The people are enterprising, liberal and intelli-
gent, and with many thousand acres of the best redwood of the state con-
tributory to the mill. Fort Bragg is sure to grow for many years to come.
Early History and Settlement
This whole township was selected as an Indian reservation in 1857.
The government having decided to establish a reservation, T. J. Flenley,
then Superintendent of Indian Affairs in California, having headquarters at
San Francisco, sent Lieutenant H. P. Heintzleman on an exploring expe-
dition to Cahto, thence north to Cape Mendocino and down the coast to
Noyo. His report decided the authorities to locate the reservation on the
territory thus mapped out. In 1857, Lieutenant H. G. Gibson was ordered to
establish a post, and his selection of a site was named after Colonel Brax-
ton Bragg, of Mexican war fame. The present town of Fort Bragg was
then a beautiful glade, sloping gently to the west, and completely surrounded
by heavy timber, which shut out the harsh winds, and, in a great measure,
the fogs that elsewhere rolled in so frequently. It had the most equable
climate on the coast. Dr. A. C. Folsom, stationed there for eighteen months,
assured the writer that in that time the mercury showed only a variation
of thirty degrees. The cutting away of the timber north and west of the
then open glade has let in wind and fog and greatly changed the climate.
The officers' quarters were at the east end of the natural parallelogram, the
barracks on either side, and the hospital on quite an eminence at the west
end. The writer visited the "Fort" in 1864. Captain Hull and Lieutenant
Knickerbocker then being in charge. That night Lieutenant Coffman, from
Round Valley station, was there on military business. John Byrnes and
George Wooster from Noyo were invited ; "'commissary" was on tap, and a
regular jamboree inaugurated. Myself and Wooster vacated by way of a
window, and "joy went on unconfined." The soldiers had nothing to do
at that time but eat and drink and occasionally go out and bring in an
Indian family or two to keep up the numbers to be reported. In 1867 the
reservation was abandoned, and soon after the land was thrown open for
purchase, actual settlers being allowed to enter, at the government price
of $1.25 per acre, whatever they were actually in possession of, to the limit
of six hundred and forty acres, and "possession" was very liberally con-
strued. The tract embraced in the limits of the reservation contained over
twenty-four thousand acres, and four stations were established: Fort Bragg;
Culle Bulle, just south of the Noyo river, of which John P. Simpson was
agent and William Ray assistant; Bald Hill, three miles northeast of Noyo,
with M. C. Doherty, agent, and John Clark, assistant; and Ten Mile, with
Major Lewis, agent, and E. J. Whipple, assistant. Captain H. L. Ford was
the first agent at Fort Bragg. Robert White, John P. Simpson, Sam Watts,
LOGGING SCENE, FORT BRAGG
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 63
Hub Mitchell, Steve Mitchell, G. C. Smith, Harry Kier, H. Beall and Lloyd
Beall. Sr.. were employes at various times, and on the breaking up of the
reservation, settled on some of the lands. Dr. T. M. Ames was the first
physician, and was located at Bald Hill, which place fell to Fred Heldt on
the final breakup. Graft was no name for expenditures of this and other
reservations in those times. The Indians got little of it, the employes all.
Only one or two profited by it in the long run, and nearly everyone died
in poverty.
The moving of a mill from Ten Mile river to Fort Bragg in 1885, started
the town, which for some years grew rapidly, especially when talk of a
railroad to Willits became common, and a large grading outfit was landed
at the Noyo. But this project fell through, and the low price of lumber
caused stagnation. But times soon brightened. The logging road continued
to ascend the Noyo river, until the distance intervening between its terminal
and Willits was so inconsiderable that the project of rail connection with
the outside world was revived, and is now realized. There are probably
five thousand acres of open or cleared land in the township, and more being
brought under cultivation, consequently, it is clearly seen that the welfare
and support of the town rests entirely on the timber business at present.
The company employs at times as many as one thousand men, and has
exceeded that number. The payroll, therefore, brings to the coffers of
the business men of the town $50,000 per month, no small revenue for a town
of twenty-four hundred inhabitants.
There are in the town seven general merchandise stores; banks, two;
hotels, nine; garages, two; clothing houses, four; confectioneries, four; drug
stores, two; millinery, two; jewelers, two; bakeries, two; variety, one; sa-
loons, fifteen; photo galleries, one; barber shops, four; livery stables, three;
electrical, one ; undertaker, one ; furniture, one ; newspapers, one, sometimes
two; blacksmiths, four; bottling works, one; second-hand, one; restaurants,
four; tailors, two; moving pictures, two; job wagons, six; all licensed to do
business. To a stranger business seems to be overdone — too many business
houses for the country, as the rural population seems scanty, and farms of
any size few and far between. But back from the main thoroughfare, along
the coast, ranches and orchards are being carved out of the stump and brush
land, and the trade of the workers in the woods and mills, especially of the
two large ones in town and nearby, employing sometimes fifteen hundred
men, affords support for them all. Then, too, the extension of the railroad
to Willits has opened up an extensive trade with the interior. The Finn,
the Swede, the German, the Italian, are making homes blossom where the
average American saw no encouragement for exertion. And, too. an experi-
ment in making paper pulp from redwood bark has resulted favorably in a
small way, and may lead to a profitable industry. As the bark of a redwood
is from two to eighteen inches thick the amount of material is illimitable,
and no use is now made of it save to patch a culvert, fill a mudhole, or burn
to get it out of the way.
A large, well equipped hospital is maintained by membership dues, and
is an absolutely necessary adjunct to the mill business, as the record shows
forty-six accidents in one year involving life or limb. The town supports
one newspaper well and occasionally has another thrust upon it for an
ephemeral existence. The Advocate was founded by Heeser and Bucking-
ham in 1887, and it passed into the hands of C. J. Cavanaugh in May, 1889.
64 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
From it we extract the following epitome of events : Of that date mention
is made of a visit from J. E. Pemberton, "a rising- young lawyer." now one
of the first in his specialty in San Francisco.
A card received from Captain W. E. Hull, formerly in charge of Fort
Bragg in 1863-4, now a dealer in grain, wood and lumber in Prior Lake,
I\Iinnesota. June 5, a subscription of $76, raised to send a young man to
Ukiah hospital for treatment. June 24, election held for incorporation, car-
ried by seventy-nine majority. Trustees elected: C. R. Johnson, Cal Stewart,
O. F. Westover, Frank Bucholtz. and John Randolph; clerk, H. A. Weller;
treasurer, J. Wintzer. July 3d, Steamer Noyo takes out the first log raft.
A lot was purchased by the town for school house for $1,000. On the 24th
the waterworks were completed by Horace Milliken, affording a supply of
1.000,009 gallons per day. Incorporated as a company January 10, 1890. a
building arid loan association was formed in September. In October the
grand officers of the Red Men visited the local lodge. November 27, Schooner
Protection ashore with a cargo of 175.000 feet lumber and 7,000 posts.
January 10, 1890, Baptist church completed. Shingle mill put in opera-
tion and in May, I. O. O. F. lodge instituted. Teachers' County Institute
held in Fort Bragg in June. A fire truck was purchased in February, 1891.
South Coast ashore, but floated, repaired and sailed. July 22, Australian
advices reported no sale for redwood lumber. Mill cut two and one-half
million feet in July. Fire, December 15, burned Hotel Kimball, saloon, jew-
elry store, Weller & Co.'s. Lieser's, Sternberg's, McMullen's, Hetherington's,
and Moore's; loss, $50,000; insurance, $15,000. December 23, I. O. O. F.
hall, uncompleted brick, blown down. In 1891 lumber was shipped, 16,614,-
186 feet: shingles. 4.219,400; shakes, 339,000; ties, 158,563; piles, 880 (some-
times 120 feet long, three feet in diameter) ; posts, 74,409, and wood and bark,
etc., nearly as much remaining in the yards.
May 12, 1892, a cigar raft containing 1.200,000 feet of piling was launched,
but stuck in the mud, being twenty-one feet deep, thirty-five feet wide and
600 feet long. Later it was got under way, but broke in two, and the Noyo
towed part of it into San Francisco. The town bought a chemical engine
August 24; the tunnel from Pudding creek to Noyo river was completed for
the railroad. James Brett built another cigar raft in the harbor, which was
successfully launched, and landed in the bay at San Francisco, Fire, Sep-
tember 27, destroyed six cottages. A reading room was established.
December 31, the Advocate was sold to C. J. Cavanaugh, who still con-
tinues its proprietor. Again in January, 1893, James Brett launched a log
raft of 1,200,000 feet, and an engine was put on the wharf for handling lum-
ber. A table was shipped to the World's fair, Chicago, made with a jack
knife by Charles Brown, a woodsman, of two thousand pieces of wood, with
two years' work. It contained fourteen diflferent native woods, and a con-
cealed snake and other ingenious contrivances, spring actuated. A crash in
the tie business entailed loss on many in June. 1893. Another log raft was
sent ofif July 22d. A water tunnel was driven 450 feet into the hill back of
town to augment the water supply. The Presbyterian society, organized in
1887, erected a church in 1888, which was blown off its base in December,
1892; was restored and a lecture room added at this date. Thirty-five build-
ings were erected in 1893: Red Men's hall, 54x150, three stories; McMullen's,
Randolph's and Higgins' of brick. A log raft, built by Robertson at Marsh-
field, Ore., December 20, 1893, near Trinidad, eighty tons of chains being
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 65
used in its construction, broke up. A combination of Mendocino and Hum-
boldt mills, excepting Caspar and Gualala, was reported. The Daisy Kim-
ball made a daylight round-trip to the Midwinter fair at San Francisco, at
$4 for the trip.
June 20, 1894, application was made for franchise for electric railroad,
and also for telephone. September 11, a large amount of railroad tools was
landed from the Steamer Noyo, and the town was full of expectant engineers,
laborers, etc. One hundred and fifty horses also came on for the work. It
was expected to run a road to Willits. October 6, 1895, a contract of $4,300
was let for school house. Colonel Whipple died at Eureka October 22, 1895.
His brother, H. E. Whipple, died in San Francisco, October 6, 1893. Both
were identified with the early history of the town and vicinity, and held in
high esteem.
Application for franchise for electric lights was made October 30, 1895,
and March 11, 1896, the light was turned on. In February, 1896, the mill
doubled its capacity and extended the wharf. A Finnish commercial com-
pany was incorporated and general store opened October 16. Dr. W. A.
McCornack opened his hospital with drug store, April 14, 1897, the mill
compan}' assessing employes ninety cents per month each for its support.
The mill shipped 1,000,000 feet of lumber in four days. The barkentine, C.
F. Crexker, took on a million feet for Guayaquil, Ecuador. September 22
fire destroyed Kemppe and Aulin houses ; loss, $3,800. The mill put up a
15,000 gallon water tank above the roof, and installed two and one-half miles
of sprinkling pipe. An earthquake visited the town April 14, 1898. continuing
for two days, wrecking most of the chimneys in town, and cracking the brick
buildings. Shafsky Brothers erected a brick, 24x90, two stories, with ware-
house in the rear, 24x40, April 19, 1899. Schooner Norma wrecked entering
the harbor, November 15. The wind died down before she made her anchor-
age, and she drifted on the rocks. She had been hove-to outside for thirteen
days. The mill company put in a reading room at the boarding house Jan-
uary 7, 1900. They also laid large water mains, connecting with the steam
pumps up to and along Main street from Grand hotel to Jefiferson's, and to
connect with pipe heretofore laid to Presbyterian church.
July 1st, steam laundry put in operation. On the 10th an earthquake;
no damage. April 17. 1901, seven houses in process of construction. Union,
high school, and another story on the Grand hotel. The mill put in a two
hundred and twenty-horsepower engine and 3,000 light dynamo. Admiral,
a four-masted schooner, loaded with one million feet of lumber for Ecuador,
and the Steamer Buckingham, two million feet for same country. January
27-28-29, 1902, killing frosts, very unusual. White and Plummer sold the
Noyo store to the Caspar company, whose logging camps were near. Dwell-
ings of H. A. Weller and Alf Cary destroyed by fire May 10, and Bucholtz
house the next week. Another sawmill was built up on the Noyo by DuflFey
and run for a few years at Alpine. Redwood conduits are being used for
carrying electric wires under ground, as being more durable than iron or
steel piping, and more convenient to repair. Mill here sawing for them. A
great labor strike was inaugurated March 25, 1903, which practically paralyzed
business in mill and woods, lasting some weeks.
April, 1903. the Ontario Power company ordered fifteen million feet of
flume for conveying their electric power to Buffalo. Bottling works started,
and a bank building of brick, 35x60, fourteen-foot story.
66 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
April 25, 1905, the business houses elected to close Sunday, and every
evening at 6 p.m., except Wednesdays and Saturdays, and first and fifteenth
of each month, for six months. January 21, 1906, the great storm of previous
week made of Fort Bragg an island, as the Noyo ran through the railroad
tunnel to Pudding creek and raised one bridge up two feet.
April 18, 1906, the great earthtpiake struck Fort Bragg the hardest of any
town in the county. Every brick building in town, except the bank, Gus
West's and the Hardee block, was wrecked, and many of the wooden ones
badly damaged ; some of¥ their foundations. Like San Francisco, fire com-
pleted the work, wiping out an entire business block. The loss footed up
nearly a million dollars and one life — La Poie. Perhaps no town in the State,
in comparison to size, suffered more heavily. Rebuilding began at once, and
better and more firmly braced structures were the order of the day. Brick
was not to be thought of. September 17, Rone's house burned. January,
1907, several inches of snow fell.
In August, 1907, the Steamer Strathskey took on 2,000,000 feet of lum-
ber and sailed for Puget Sound to take on another million. The Christian
Bors loaded two and a half million feet for Valparaiso. In March, 1908, the
high school building was finished. The high school was accredited May,
1909. The new Presbyterian church was dedicated October 1, 1910. On the
18th fire destroyed the planing mill, ice plant, blacksmith shop and stable
belonging to the mill company.
March 15, 1911, the library issued one hundred and thirty borrowers'
cards, received $50 in donations^ and ordered one hundred and seventeen vol-
umes. In April a reinforced concrete jail was erected, and to render it useless,
nine grammar school teachers were employed. Five fire alarm stations were
located. In October an election was held on the liquor question and the
town went "wet" by one hundred and nineteen majority. September report
of the librarian showed that six hundred and eighty-two books were given
out; attendance. 1,120. The town now had four school buildings, fifteen
teachers, four hundred and seventy-five pupils ; school property valued at
$27,000. December 15, 1911, the rails were laid into Willits and an excur-
sion of one hundred and fifty celebrated the occasion. J. G. French was made
superintendent of the road, the "California Western Railroad and Naviga-
tion Company."
The twenty-fourth anniversary of the Red Men's lodge was held May 11,
1912. The new bank building, of reinforced concrete, was finished June 8th.
On the 28th the steeple of the Baptist church, ninety feet high, fell. The
Atlas Tank company was incorporated to build redwood tanks. British
tramp steamer, St. Kilda, loaded with one million feet of lumber for Aus-
tralia.
An election was held October 7, 1912, for issuing bonds to build or pur-
chase city water works. The local works were offered at $75,000. The town
has offered $30,000 for the plant which has been refused. Library building
completed, 35x55 feet; wood, with mezzanine floor, $2,500. M. T. Smith,
an old pioneer, died Tanuarv 24, 1912. The new Baptist church dedicated
March 13, 1913.
Cleone. north of I^'ort Bragg six miles, has a chute and wharf, difficult
to maintain, but which has done a great deal of business in tie. bark and pile
shipping. There have been two mills in the timber east of the road, but
the other business j^roving more profitable, they were closed down. It once
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 67
supported quite a business village, with several saloons ; now a store, black-
smith shop and half a dozen dwellings comprise the town. It is the frontier
of quite a large body of fine agricultural land, extending to and north of
Ten Mile river to Kibesilah, another has-been town. Between is a shipping
point, Newport, once the outlet for what is now the Fort Bragg mill, then
located on Ten Mile river. Near here are three large dairies which supply
the home demand for butter. Kibesilah once boasted two hotels, two stores,
as many or more bars, and did quite a business in shipping lumber, ties, bark
and posts, but nothing is now left but a small dwelling recently erected on the
ashes of the last old relic of its former prosperity.
Just south of Newport stood the old reservation headquarters, long the
residence of E. J. Whipple. It was destroyed by fire in 1913. There is a
large body of fine land stretching along the coast from Cleone or Inglenook
to Chadbourne Gulch, the north line of the township. We may suppose that
before the timber is gone improved methods of farming, clearing up the brush
land, the use of kelp as a fertilizer, and man's ingenuity will so far increase
production, that the towns will be supported by the productions of the earth.
New industries, or applications of the old material, are continually
springing up. The waste about a sawmill in the old days amounted to fully
one-third of a log, and sometimes one-half. Now it does not average one-
fourth. Shingle blocks, short lumber, pickets, etc., use up much that for-
merly went over to the burning heap. Now the mills are universally fitted
with machinery to cut up the edging and broken boards for engine fuel, and
the sawdust, that many of them also use for fuel, is now being kiln dried,
put into drums made for the purpose at the mill, and shipped to Fresno
to be filled with grapes and sent east for cold storage until the holiday trade
begins. The grapes net $60 to $70 per ton in this way. The Union Lumber
company has the finest building of wood north of San Francisco, and per-
haps in the state, which is completely stocked in department style. It is
one hundred and twenty feet front and depth, finished in natural wood with
maple floor. Repeated requests obtained no details of construction or ar-
rangements.
Glen Blair is another suburb of Fort Bragg. It is situated. on Pudding
creek, six miles inland by rail, and is simply a mill village, supported by
employes of the Glen Blair Mill company. The mill is one of the best on
the coast. 60,000 feet capacity, and ships its lumber through Fort Bragg's port.
It originally had the finest body of timber on the coast ; many logs had to
be blasted before being brought from the woods. It was built by Captain
Blair soon after Fort Bragg was in operation and in charge of Alex Mc-
Callum, run successfully for many years. It is now owned by Glen Blair
Mill company and in charge of J. A. Sinclair, one of the principal owners.
Fort Bragg has three banks, all in flourishing condition. The First
National has a paid-up capital of $50,000, surplus and undivided profits $19,427.
J. E. Weller, president; L. Barnard, vice president; C. R. Weller, cashier;
additional directors, L. J. Scoofify, George Golden, C. F. Hunt.
First Bank of Savings: Capital, $25,000, paid up. Resources. $150,014.
L. Barnard, president ; George Golden, vice president ; J. E. Weller. cashier ;
additional directors, H. P. Plummer, L. J. Scooffy, C. W. Broback. F. Wind-
linx.
Fort Bragg Commercial Bank, incorporated March 28, 1912. Paid-up
capital. $25,000. Surplus and undivided profits. $3047. Individual deposits.
68 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
$145,726. Total resources, $216,291. C. W. Mathews, president; D. Brandon,
vice president; H. P. Preston, cashier; Leo Brandon, assistant cashier; addi-
tional directors, J. W. Preston, M. H. Iversen, L. C. Gregory, B. A. Lendrum.
Fort Bragg is well represented on the secret society map, and part of
them may not be uninteresting to the lodge portion of our subscribers.
Fort Bragg Lodge No. 361, F. & A. M., was organized March 14, 1904.
Charter members : W. A. McCorn'ack, John E. Weller, Eric Huggins, H. R.
Baum, A. S. Lyman, H. M. Foye, W. B. Ward, J. H. Carlisle, G. H. Stilling,
A. H. Shafsky, Chester Woodruff, John W. Cullom. Present officers : J. E.
Weller, W. M.; A. A. Lord, S. W.; W. F. Fuller, J. W. ; C. R. Weller,
Treas. ; George Golden, Secy. Number of members, seventy-four.
Fort Bragg Lodge No. 360, I. O. O. F., was organized May 31, 1890.
Charter members : Charles Thamer, J. E. Diehl, Louis Nelson, John Ran-
dolph, T. A. White, and Valentine Menges. Present officers: Peter Johnson,
N. G.; G. H. Hartman, V. G. ; H. J. Dellett, Secy.; O. L. Johnson, Treas.
Redwood Encampment No. 67, I. O. O. F., was organized February 27,
1899. Charter members : T. O'Connor, S. B. Hatch, George Urquehart,
Abraham Shafsky, P. Halvorsen. Present officers : Ed Mann, C. P. ; W.
Turner, H. P.; E. Ness, S. W.; H. J. Dellett, Scribe; T. F. Johnson, Treas.;
P. Ericson, J. W. Number of members, sixty-seven.
Golden West Rebekah Lodge No. 32, 1. O. O. F., was organized February
28, 1895. Present officers: Jeannie Murphy, N. G. ; May Lewthwaite, V. G. ;
Alva McLeod, Secy. ; Margaret Hopkins, Treas. Number of members, fifty.
Santana Tribe No. 60, I. O. R. M., was organized May 11, 1888. Present
officers: H. J. Young, Sachem; Henry Whipple, Sr. Sagamore; C. F. Johnson,
Jr. Sagamore ; J. E. Weller, Keeper of Wampum ; George Golden, Chief of
Records. Number of members, two hundred and twenty.
Knights of the Maccabees was organized September 18, 1897. Present
officers: O. L. Johnson, Commander; A. Shafsky, Record Keeper. Number
of members, thirty-six.
Fort Bragg Aerie No. 833, F. O. E., organized November 10, 1904. Present
officers : W. Bangs, W. P. ; L. F. Thompson, V. P. ; H. W. Little, C. ; W. W.
Ware, Secy. Number of members, two hundred and twelve.
Alden Glen Parlor No. 200, N. S. G. W., was organized August 31, 1897.
Present officers : W. F. Agnew, P. P. ; W. C. Balfour, P. ; H. W. Little, Secy. ;
George P. Purlenskv, Treas. Number of members, sixtv-eight. Funds in
treasury, $2200.
Kalavala Brotherhood was originated and organized in Fort Bragg by
Charles Martin, October 28, 1907. Present officers : Oscar Ruuska, Past Pres. ;
Charles Randis, Pres.; August Rantala, Secy.; John Abrahamson, Treas.
Number of members, two hundred and three.
United Ancient Order of Druids (American) was organized July 12, 1906.
Present officers: E. S. Belknap; O. L. Johnson. Secy.; H. W. Little, Treas.
Number of members, sixty-two.
Croatian Society Narodue H. R. V., Zajednice, was organized in 1907.
Present officers: Anton Zruak, Pres.; George Bozicevich, Fin. Secy.; John
Buzdon, Rec. Secy. ; Mate Sverki, Treas. Number of members, one hundred
and seventeen.
Loyal Order of Moose. Present officers: L. C. Gregory, P. D. ; J. G.
Aylward, D.; E. S. Scott, V. D.; D. J. Donigan, Prelate; A. T. Lewis, S. of A.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 69
Degree of Pocahontas : Prophetess, Annie Garhohn ; Pocahontas, Mrs.
Helena Conroy; Wewonah, Mrs. Maud Agnew; Powhatan, Joe Ferandy ;
K. of R., Mrs. Josiah M. Stoddard; K. of W., Mrs. Lucy Carlson. Number of
members, eighty-nine.
Redwood Hive No. 32 was instituted August 23, 1898. Present officers:
Mrs. Nellie Doyle, L. C. ; Mrs. Caldona Allen, P. L. C. ; Mrs. Catherine Camp-
bell, R. K.; Mrs. Ida R. Johnson, L. A.
W. O. W.: G. W. Taylor, C. C. ; W. D. Dolan, A. L.; E. E. Brown,
Clerk: I. W. Mathews, Banker. Number of 'members, seventy-six.
Knights of Pythias : G. W. Taylor, C. C. ; E. A, Erickson, A. L. ; G. V.
Weller, Prelate; E. E. Brown, K. of R.; J. P. Hopkins, M. J. E. Number of
members, thirty-six.
Sapphire Chapter, O. E. S., was instituted .\pril 25. 1905. Present ofifi-
cers : Alice AI. Pensol, A\'. M. : Anna E. Milliken, A. M. W. ; Emma E. Brown,
Secy.; Harriet R. Huggins, Treas. : W. F. Fuller, W. Patron. Number of
members, seventy-five.
Kalavala Sisterhood No. 1, was organized at Fort Bragg March 12, 1897.
Its first officers were Mrs. Matilda Aulin, Pres. ; Miss Fiina Karjanaki, V. P.;
James Marttin, P. M. ; Evelina Kemppe, Secy. ; Sophie Hellen, Treas. Present
officers: Lena Guinnerus, P.; Sigrid Karjanaki, V. P.; Olga Karvonen, P.;
Elima Lehtemaki, Secy. ; Lizzie Abrahamson, Treas. Number of members,
sixty-nine.
Mendocino Grove No. 105, U. A. O. D., was instituted in 1912. M.
Domeriguez, D. D. ; P. Farilli, N. A. ; E. Corelli, F. Secy. ; J. A. Simonin, R. S.
Present membership, two hundred and seventeen.
The weather clerk reports an unusually severe winter 1913-14. Higher
tides, heavier winds, and more rainfall than have occurred in years, 46.62
inches to March 21, with some inches to date since then.
CHAPTER VI
Ukiah Township
This township lies in a valley i.f Russian river and is bounded by quite
abrupt ranges both east and west, and north and south respectively by Sanel
and Little Lake townships, and for a short distance by Potter, on the north.
It was practically all included within the lines of Yokaya grant, save a narrow
strip of mountain land on each side, not considered worth surveying by the
grant claimants. And yet this worthless land is now selling at $15 to $20
per acre, and being transformed into vineyards.
The soil of the valley consists of the river loam, black clover land, gravelly
wash from the hills, and the gravelly sandy formation of most of the hills of
the county.
The climate is unsurpassed in Calilnrnia. while the summers develop
heat sufficient to bring the mercury in exceptional days up to 110 degrees,
yet the cool nights at 50 degrees, and invigorating mornings, fit the citizen
for the labors of the day, which the more even temperature of the eastern
climate does not affect. The dryness of the air in summer, devoid of the damp
sultriness of the eastern climate, makes this degree of heat endurable even
for the hard W(irk of the harvest field, while the toiler ever finds the cooling
70 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
influence of a shade, and the ever daily recurring breeze, sulificient to prevent
complaint. The lowest known temperature has been 12 degrees above, and
this only once in the fifty years that a record has been kept. The usual limit
is 24 degrees, with an occasional drop to 19 or 21 degrees on off years.
Products
The great variety of fruit and general products of the township is suffi-
cient to demonstrate its fertility and climate. Grain of all kinds, including
corn, luxuriates, fruit of all kinds indigenous to the temperate zone is raised
in profusion, while many of the tropical ones find a congenial home in the
valley and foothills. Heavy spring rains, or late frosts, sometimes curtail the
amount of fruit, but a total failure has never been recorded. The varying
elevations and exposures always insure a liberal supply for every valley.
Prunes, plums, pears, cherries, apples, are always in evidence, with peaches
and apricots in favored localities, berries everywhere, and oranges, lemons
and olives wherever they have been tried.
The township reaches from the 25 mile post (from county line) to the
head of Redwood valley, and includes Ukiah valley, Coyote valley and Red-
wood valley, being about twenty-seven miles north and south and about
twenty miles east and west, the west line being at the intersection of the
Hot Springs and Low Gap roads. East of Ukiah valley the mountain is
heavily clad with brush, and a good part on the west, except at the northern
and southern part where the country presents more grazing land. It includes
nearly all the tributaries of Russian river except Walker valley. Potter, and
the Cold creek region.
Ukiah valley is about ten miles long and from half a mile to two miles
wide, with occasional glades running up the incoming streams. On the hills
grow the various woods indigenous to California, several kinds of oak, fir,
limited bodies of redwood, pine, madrona. tan oak, chestnut oak, manzanita,
and the smaller woods or brush, such as hazel, chemissal, blue blossom, moun-
tain mahogany, nutmeg, yew, laurel, etc., cover the mountains and fill the
canons. The white oaks of the valley often obtain a diameter of six feet,
with a branch spread of one hundred and fifty feet, while the golden oak of
the canon grows to the size of four feet, and height of one hundred and fifty
feet or more. The redwoods grew only in a few of the stream heads on the
western side of the valley, and have practically been exterminated. It seemed
merely an overflow of the dense forests of the western slope of the range, and
came no farther than the limit of the fog drift from the coast.
Early Settlement
Conflicting authorities differ as to the date and personality of the first
really white settlers of the township, but Dr. Vallejo, son of General Vallejo,
certainly must be as near correct as any one not here at the time. In an
article recently published, he mentions the fact that in 1833, "Captain Sepul-
vedo Vallejo came up with Spanish troops to procure Indians to work on
adobe houses and forts then being built at Sonoma. That later other expedi-
tions were here to procure children to enslave. In 1848, Don Timothy Murphy
and James Black sent John Parker to Ukiah valley with horses and cattle,
who located at Robertson creek. In the spring of 1850 Parker was seriously
injured, as he said, by Indians, while the latter asserted that Parker was run
over by a band of horses when he was lying asleeii. His jaw was broken.
MENDOCINO AND LAKP: COUNTIES 71
and the Indian chief, Cyotiwexo, kept him alive 'for some time by adminis-
tering liquid food through a reed. The chiefs son, Guadaloupe, carried word
to Murphy, who sent his major-domo, John Knight, to bring Parker and the
stock back to San Rafael. Parker died in Peru." Yet others have asserted
that Parker was living in the valley as late, or early as 1852-3. Colonel
La Motte passed through the valley in 1854, and says some white man was
then living in the same location.
Samuel Lowry arrived in the valley in 1856 and located at what is now
the corner of Main and Perkins streets, declaring a homestead. In April,
1857, A. T. Perkins and family moved in, and bought out Lowry. In this year
also came G. B. Mathers. Berry Wright, John Burton, L. M. Ruddick, T. F.
Beattie, and W. J. Cleveland. The following spring witnessed an influx of
settlers, among whom may be named H. Standley, M. C. Briggs, G. C. Smith,
J. B. Lamar, D. Gobbi, S. W. Haskett, William Neely Johnson, Lew Warden,
]. R. Moore, Dr. Price. Later by a year or two came the Gibsons, G. W.,
T. J., A. T.. and Robert; R. McGarvey, E. R. Budd, William Henry, John
Ontis, W."b. Hagans, M. Hooper, R. Stevens, W. H. White, M. W. Howard,
J. W. Morris, Sam Ackerman, and about seventy-five others, enough to deter-
mine Ukiah as the county seat at the election called in May, 1859. Of all those
that were known to be here at that date only I. C. Reed, Berry Wright, T. J.
Gibson, J. P. Smith and John Ontis are known to be now living.
The name Ukiah is a corruption of the Indian name Tokya, and is so
variously spelled on letters daily received at the post office that one wonders
how they find their way here. The history of the township embodies that
of the town, and so intimately are they interwoven that an attempt to treat
them separately would occasion much repetition.
The Grant
Covered as it was by the Yokaya grant, in its entirety, the progress of the
community was in a measure restrained on account of the uncertainty of title
to the land. The confirmation of the grant title in the United States district
court on December 18, 1862, settled the matter, but the sale of the land only
began in earnest in May. 1866. In February, 1861, Julia E. Rogers, O. Schle-
singer, William Neely Johnson, E. R. Budd, Robert AIcGarvey and others
secured bonds for deeds to lots in or adjoining the town, the first actual full
deed from the grant owners being made to J. H. Laughlin, December 14,
1867, for one hundred and ninety acres for the sum of $1000. The same date
S. B. Edsall obtained a deed to two hundred acres for $800; T. F. Beattie,
three hundred and sixty-three acres for $1180; T. J. Faught, three hundred
and twenty-five acres for $1430; December 16, P. Mankens, one hundred and
seven acres for $900 (this latter piece is now held at $11,000) ; A. T. Perkins,
sixty-six acres for $1100; J. R. Short, one hundred and sixty-three acres for
$1500; December 17, H. P. Benton, two hundred and eight acres, $2233 (what
is now the Redemeyer and Sandford ranches). As these are average ranches
for soil and location, the price ranged from $2 to $11 per acre.
The first deed placed on record in the books of the county clerk was from
Louis Pena and wife, Beatrice Pena, to_ Richard Harrison, of date May 23.
1859, of five hundred acres in Sanel Valley for the sum of $2000. The second
deed was of date May 27, 1859, from Richard Harrison, conveying two hun-
dred and thirty acres of the same land tn Beatrice Pena for $1400. June 1,
1859. F. B Gardner deeded one-fourth interest each in the Star Ranch, Knights
72 MEXDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
valley, to W. W. Star and J. B. Bovven. nineteen hundred and forty acres, for
$4000. This gives one a fair idea of land values at that early day. Lots in
Ukiah sold at $20 up. E. R. Budd's ten-acre tract in the southern border of
the town was priced at $25 an acre. At a later date, when the remnants of the
grant passed into the ownership of Doolan and IMcGarvey, the poorest land
was sold at $2.50 per acre, and blocks in the western part of town for $200
to $250 each.
The first hotel in the town was built by Harrison Standley on the south-
west corner of Main and Standley streets, in 1859. It has twice been moved
bodily, to the southeast corner of Standley and State streets, and back again,
and torn down in 1913. It had been on fire a score of times, yet never seri-
ously injured thereby. As before related, the upper story of a building on the
east side of Main street, a little south of Standley street, was used as a court
house and for county offices until a brick court house was built, at a cost of
$9000 for building and furnishing. It was finished, accepted and occupied
January 24, 1860.
In November, 1860, E. R. Budd, for some years publisher of the Sonoma
Democrat in Santa Rosa, established the Mendocino Herald, in Ukiah, where
it held sway for many years. Democratic though its proprietor had always
been, yet the paper from its inception espoused the L^nion cause, and from
that, at the close of the war, became Republican. During 1863-4 A. O. Car-
penter was associated in its publication. In July, 1865, E. D. Pepper suc-
ceeded to the management of the Herald for a short time.
July 2. 1863, a Democratic paper was first published, with A. T. Perkins
& Co. as ostensible proprietors, and William Holden as editor, with "Consti-
tutional Democrat" for the cognomen. The Hon. Holden thereafter was
nicknamed "Constitutional Bill." February 19, 1865, another paper was
launched on the suflfering public under the name of Mendocino County Demo-
crat, with Mat Lynch as editor and proprietor. These last two papers were
merged into one, and for some years was run by Mat Lynch. Differences
arose between Lynch and the Democracy and he was forced out of the paper
by financial pressure, and it became the Mendocino Democrat, and under Alex
Montgomery in 1870 absorbed the Herald, thus leaving the Republican party
without an organ. In October, 1873, Mat Lynch again essayed the role of
journalist and began the publication of the Democratic Weekly Dispatch.
Dying in [•'ebruary, 1874, his widow, Mrs. Belle Lynch, assumed the control,
editorial and business, of the paper, and made it decidedly spicy and energetic.
Untoward circumstances forced her out of its management in March, 1878,
and Gambee & Hofifman published it until August, when Hoffman retired and
E. B. Gambee remained sole owner. An unfortunate article clipped from the
Argonaut proved his undoing, and in July, 1879, C. J. Williams assumed control
of its destinies. April, 1880, Peabody & Sefton purchased it, and conducted
it for some years, when A. W. Sefton sold out to his partner, who assumed
its sole management until 1889, when he sold to John Buckingham. In July,
1896, Buckingham died, and the paper was managed by M. Baechtel, with Mr.
Kertley as editcr, and was by him sold to J. B. Sanford in 1898. In 1913 Mr.
Sanford associated with himself E..P. Thurston, who had for some years
virtually conducted the paper. It is intensely Democratic, has a large sub-
scription list, good joli office, linotype machine, and power press.
In July, 1877, E. J. Handley issued the first number of the Ukiah City
Press, and continued it until October. 1878, when be departed for unknown
:\IExNDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 71
territory, leaving the paper in charge of his foreman, who surrendered it to
the mortgagee, the latter selling it to A. O. Carpenter. It had a subscription
list of about three hundred and was weakly in every respect. Close applica-
tion to its business department, and diligence in seeking news and new sub-
scribers caused it to flourish, and in a year's time it was on a firm basis, with
a good list of eight hundred subscribers. In February, 1879, Charles S. Paine
became associated in its conduct, paying most of his attention to the typo-
graphical department, and two years after bought out Mr. Carpenter. June,
1883, Paine sold to Pope, who ran the Press until 1889, when Mrs. Pope
assumed its responsibilities and sold to S. Hornbrook. June, 1891, Thatcher
& Paxton assumed control ; S. J. Matthews, Poundstone & Matthews, suc-
ceeded in close order, until 1893, when it was issued by the Press Publishing
Company, headed by J. M. Mannon ; then in 1896 Alf. Pennington's name
appeared at the head of its columns ; 1898 Pennington & White appeared as
its directors; 1902 J. M. Mannon was again its ostensible owner; 1903 White
& Stanley took charge of it, and shortly after W. O. White's name was
blazoned on the paper and the windows of its office, and it has since continued
acceptable to the rank and file of the party it represents, and the public in
general. It issues two thousand copies and has a power press and Intertype
machine and full outfit for fine job work.
The Times, another weekly, has had an exceedingly varied experience.
It is hard to say who its progenitor was, as it has been grafted upon several
sporadic efforts at journalism. The Ukiah Independent of Hunter & Whitton,
the Mendocino Republican by C. Huse, the Herald by Herzinger, the Saturday
Night by Broback, may all be counted among its ancestors. Finally it fell into
the hands of George H. Rhodes, who let go of it soon after the election of
W. H. Kent to Congress. Since then it has been successively in the hands
of Marlow, Halliday, Adams, and now is run by Keller & Hufft, two young
men who have grown up with the town. It also has a job office, power press,
and linotype.
John Burton sold the first goods in Ukiah, was afterwards county assessor,
and owned the farms now occupied by Sanford Bros, and the Redemeyers. In
conjunction with A. T. Perkins a store was built on the corner of Main and
Smith streets, afterwards occupied by Kaskell, Mears & Co. In 1858 Perkins
and J. R. Short built a school house between Clay and Stevenson streets, west
of Oak, of split stufT. Fred S. Dashiell was the first teacher.
In 1859 J. R. Moore established a saloon on Standley street near State.
Up to that time all the business of the town was located on Main street.
Philbrick & Morton erected another on State, which burned down in 1913,
then occupied by L. Van Dusen. The first drug store was built and stocked
by George B. Mathers, on the corner of Perkins and State, where now is the
bar of the Cecille hotel. North of the Ukiah House (Standley's) was a two-
story building occupied by Capt. D. W. Smith as a saloon below and lodging
house above, and it was often three deep both above and below.
The first church, Methodist Episcopal, was built in 1862, through the
exertions i<f Rev. W. S. Bryant. Rumors of a railroad were floating around,
though there was not money enough in the county to build a decent dirt road.
In May, 1863, Capt. J. P. Simpson recruited a company of volunteers to take
the place of regulars in the care of Indians in Mendocino and Humboldt. They
were mustered out in June, 1865, not having drawn blood. In April, 1867,
the Southern Relief Fund was enriched bv contributions as follows: Ukiah,
74 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
$295; Potter, $31.50; Redwood Valley, $15. The flour mill which had for
some years been run by water at Calpella by Wurtenburg & Wichelhausen
was moved to Ukiah and fitted with steam power. In 1870 T. B. Bond,
R. McGarvey and W. E. Willis were appointed to locate the streets of Ukiah,
and a year after they reported them where they were before, and have con-
tinued since, in effect.
In August, 1872, a petition for incorporating Ukiah was presented to the
board of supervisors, who granted the same, and ordered an election for town
officers for August 31st, and prescribed that the town should be one mile
square, with the court house as its center. The election resulted in the fol-
lowing officers : Trustees, R. N. Willing, J. R. Moore, E. W. King and Samuel
Orr, and later T. L. Carothers. R. N. Willing was elected chairman, T. L.
Carothers, clerk. Thomas Charlton was elected marshal, and I. Isaac treas-
urer. The following year Mr. Isaac committed suicide and William Ford was
appointed treasurer. In 1874, after the election, the officers-elect failed to
qualif}-, the old officers refused to serve, and the town fell down. The town
was again incorporated in 1876 and the election held in February resulted in
the following list of oificers : T. L. Carothers. J. S. Reed, S. Orr, W. H. Forse
and G.B. Mathers; assessor and marhsal, A. O. Carpenter. In 1877 the
Ukiah Water Co. proceeded to lay mains. The Maxim Gas Co. having also
laid its mains, street lights were ordered at the principal corners. A Babcock
hook and ladder truck was purchased. Financial statement of the town No-
vember 25. 1879: Property, $326,747; tax collected, $800; poll tax, $119;
licenses, etc:, $328; total. $1247.
July 26, 1879, the people were called upon to mourn the loss of the first
inhabitant to locate in its boundaries, Abner T. Perkins, a man without an
enemy, and a friend of all.
The water rate was fixed at $1.50 per month for a residence and ten cents
per hour for irrigat^ion with a three-quarter hose.
The bank of Santa Rosa established a branch in Ukiah, in 1873, under
the management of J. H. Donohoe. It erected the building later taken over
by the Bank of Ukiah; It closed out its business in 1876.
The Bank of Ukiah was organized in 1874, with A. F. Redemeyer presi-
dent and Sam Wheeler cashier, who remained in office for many years. R. Mc-
Garvey svicceeded Redemeyer and in turn was succeeded by Hale McCowen
and he by Henry Hopper, who is now president. W. F. Thomas succeeded
Sam Wheeler as cashier, and now holds that position. The bank has ever
been prosperous, and of late years conservative in its management. In the
spring of 1914, its capital stock was reduced to $150,000, as being preferable
to the larger amount heretofore carried. Its statement of March 11, 1914.
shows resources of $708,864, of which $55,835 is cash on hand. It has a surplus
of $25,000, undivided profits $12,847; individual deposits subject to check,
$275,768.
The Savings Bank of Mendocino County was incorporated December 13.
1903, both as a commercial bank and savings bank, $25,000 capital paid in, in
each department. The figures given represent the two combined, of which
seventy-five per cent represents the savings department. Resources, $434,-
671; cash on hand, $15,119; undivided profits, $11,225; surplus, $6000; indi-
vidual savings deposits. $278,341. At its organization J. H. Barker was presi-
dent. Ill health caused his resignation in 1914, and J. M. Mannon became
president ; J. L. ^IcCracken. \ice-president ; .\rtlnir Tracw cashier.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 75
The Commercial Bank of Ukiah was organized December 18, 1903, with
a paid-up capital stock of $50,000. W. P. Thomas president and E. L. Cun-
ningham cashier. Resources, $369,669; surplus, $35,000; individual deposits,
$217,287.
Eagle fire company was organized in March, 1877, with C. W. Tindall as
foreman. The apparatus owned by it was a hook and ladder truck, four Bab-
cock extinguishers and a house and lot. Now it has two hose carts, a library
and clubhouse. January 5, 1881, a fire swept Standley street fronting the plaza,
except a brick on the corner of State street.
A representative of eastern stockholders disbursed $7000 acquiring timber
land on the head of Seward creek, Leonard's water right, and the Gold Mining
Company at Calpella. Louis Sefton, seven years old, drowned in Gibson
creek, in town. The "bear truth" is chronicled in the Press of February 4, 1882;
Nixon trapped eleven bear last year on Big river; Doc Standley killed four
in less than one minute ; the Rawles brothers kill from twenty to thirty in
Anderson each year. On the tenth, fire in Grand hotel block destroyed hard-
ware store and post office; loss $14,000, insurance $6000.
The Calpella Gold Mining and Flume Co. surveyed to Calpella, ten and
nine-tenths miles. Delinquent tax list of county only $2500. Smallpox at
Cowsert ranch, March; no fatalities. "Ruth" given by home talent: J. C.
Ruddock, Mrs. Kelton, Lulu Dozier, Belle McGarvey, Clara Wheeler, Carrie
Hunter, Nellie Malone, Helen M. Carpenter, Mrs. Griffith, Jennie Sturtevant,
Ella King, Nellie Forse, Charles Duncan, Eugene Tutt, Charles Cunningham,
under the direction of D. H. Tucker, with a second presentation in March.
Grammar school opened with one hundred and eighty-eight pupils with J. C.
Ruddock, Mrs. Kelton and Blanche McCowen as teachers. A road surveyed
from Alfred Higgins' place to Lakeport, fourteen and one-half miles, estimated
to cost $7000, crossing the ridge at an elevation of 2800 feet; but as the
viewers place Hopland at 800, it is probable their guess was ofif on all the
figures. Railroad time from Cloverdale to San Francisco, five hours.
Auriferous deposit at Calpella estimated at three miles long, 20 to 200
feet deep (or high) and to yield $30,000 per acre by hydraulic process. Garnets
found also. Forse's stages making the 215 miles from Cloverdale to Eureka
in thirty-six hours. A fire engine purchased from Petaluma. Wool thirty
cents per pound. Work on gold mining flume begun July 20; eighty-seven
men engaged on it. Col. A. Von Schmidt now meandering up Russian river
canon with a view to extending the railroad to Ukiah, August 12. The Law
building, corner Standley and Schcol. built by T. L. Carothers. First dried
fruit of consequence made by X. Wagonseller — plums. August temperature
60 to 100 degrees.
The week of September 3 tallied arrivals at Ukiah hotels of one hundred
and seven at Ukiah House, seventy-nine at Palace, fifty-four at Peoples.
Captain Jack bought land north of town for his tribe; Capt. Bill fifty acres
near Guidi : Capt. Charley the McPeak ranch, down the valley. This latter
place ]iaid itself out the first season in hops $3600. Bank of Ukiah ofifers face
value for county warrants. The Gold Mining & Flume Co. put a mortgage
of $34,000 on its possessions. Grace Carpenter (Hudson) received telegram
of award to her of gold medal from San Francisco Art School for best crayon
from plaster cast. January, 1882, mercury from 20 to 28 degrees. County
statistics: Valuation, $4,175,853 real estate; personal, $1,941,161. January
26, stage held up near toll house in the canon. February 12, six inches of snow,
76 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
forty per cent estimated loss on sheep. The Gold Mining and Flume Company
died. June, wool twenty-five and one-half cents. Thunder storm and lighting,
July 19, used up nine telegraph poles, a tree at Long's, and stunned John
Higgins. Hop picking set at one and a quarter cents. Circus wagon off the
grade at Cleveland's, and two horses drowned. September, heavy rains, 2.72
inches to October 13th. Registration 3409. I. O. O. F. hall completed Novem-
ber 17th. To October 31st the coast mills cut 94,000,000 feet of lumber.
County school census shows 3543 pupils with average attendance 2735. Willie
Hemans killed a ten and one-half foot panther, near Reeves mill, with quail
shot, at twelve feet distance. It weighed two hundred and twenty-five pounds.
Chrome iron discovered on county farm. J. H. Donohoe bought exclusive
right at seventy-five cents per ton, fifty tons per year. Nothing doing.
May 5, 1884, north bound stage robbed of mail and express, three miles from
Cloverdale. Artesian well company formed in September, and well put down
150 feet. Hops twenty-five to thirty cents, .\ugust 3, McClosky house
burned. Stage opposition on from Cloverdale up to Ukiah, fare fifty cents and
less. Rain September 13. Teachers' Institute, September 28.
"Triumph of Love" given by local talent. January 24, 1885, stage hold-
up a mile north of town. Express box contained only garden seeds. April
30, fire destroyed west front of block on State street, between Church and
Stevenson ; loss, $6,000 ; insurance, $2,500. Another attempt to hold up stage
north from Cloverdale to Mendocino ; several shots exchanged. Railroad
rumors. The latest from Colusa to Mendocino. Supposed S, P. Co. Another
San Francisco to Lake and Mendocino ; another from Cloverdale to Ukiah ;
and four or five others, having terminals in Mendocino. Another stage hold-
up north of Cloverdale ; robber caught at once, September 20. Notice that
Donohoe would run the railroad to Ukiah at once. Sacramento & Mendo-
cino railroad setting stakes up Cache creek canyon. Surveying also from
Willows to Covelo. High license defeated in town election, 1886. Town
assessment roll, $596,696, 1887. Seven hundred men at work on railroad.
Mechanics' Institute fair received from this county two redwood planks,
seven and nine feet wide, eighteen feet long, four inches thick, sent by Mc-
Pherson and Wetherbee ; from there they were sent to England. Agricul-
tural fair, October 14. Teachers' Institute, Ukiah. October 22. Hart's resi-
dence on Seminarv a\enue Ijurned December 14; loss, $4,000; insurance,
$2,500.
February, 1888. waterworks bought by T. F". Jamieson, Morris Peck
raised four hundred and sixty pounds of squashes from one vine, Novem-
ber 2, railroad grade completed, Kelso & Co. gave a supper to one hundred
guests at Reed's hall. Freight tarifif promulgated : thirty-five to fifty cents
per hundredweight ; carloads, fifteen to thirty-two cents. George W. Gib-
son died, a pioneer of 1858. J. M. Donahue acquired all the stock of S, F, &
N. P. and reincorporated at "$6,000,COO. Mill output of county, 150,000.000
feet. Mendocino and Cloverdale stages, up and down, held up near Philo,
January 5, 1889. February 9, railroad in running order. Eagle block erected.
March, railroad blocked with slides. Mail by handcar and foot service. J.
M. Donohoe died March 4. Corporation organized to build railroad from
Ukiah to Lakeport; $720,000, in 1890. Eighty-three teachers employed in
the county. Sand stone quarry west of town. Snuffin's residence burned ; an
old landmark. Bids advertised for asylum grounds. August 11, bids
called for building, aggregating $400,000. Corner stone laid, December 9, bv
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 77
Grand Master of Masons ; Governor Waterman present. Power press for
Republican Press ; first in the county.
In 1891 telegraph and telephone company incorporated for lines from
Ukiah to Potter, and Lakeport. April, beef cattle brought in from outside
the county. June 3, half an inch of rain. First annual report of S. F. &
N. P. shows net earnings, $313,795. The road has eighteen engines, fifty-
five passenger cars, three hundred and eighty-nine freight cars, seventy-nine
dump cars, one hundred and eighty-six miles of road, 8,985 feet of tunneling,
1,848 feet bridges, 36,989 feet of trestle. August 5, yacht Whisper sailed
for Lakeport on wheels. She is seventy feet long, ten and six-tenths beam,
seven feet hold. Water agitation for Doolan and Robertson creeks. Marks
block rebuilt. Twelfth District fair, September 29. On the 16th lightning
killed four horses and five hogs at Howell's ranch. May Day, 1892, first
excursion on railroad from Sonoma county, 1,000 on board. Curtis house
built. In 1893, shaft sunk on Cleveland property north of Coyote, 260 feet;
option extended, gold looked for. S. F. & N. P. sold to Foster, Smith &
Seligman. Mendocino county represented at Chicago World's fair by Miss
Reeve's flower paintings on curly redwood, Mrs. Hudson's "Little Mendo-
cino" and the "Interrupted Bath," and Dr. Hudson's Indian baskets. June
23, wool in store in town, 356,665 pounds ; priced at from eleven to four-
teen cents. Agitation for railway to Low Gap. Second Artillery regiment
encampment. June, 1895. Sam Brown killed forty-four rattlesnakes in one
day.
J. M. Standley shot by stage robber January 17, 1896. Stage had been
stoi)ped by him on two dates. March 6, four inches of snow. Sewer con-
tract let to F. Brunner & Son, $15,900. John Buckingham, proprietor of
Dis])atch, died July 9. March, 1897, fish hatchery opened on Gibson creek.
I'ranchise awarded Mendocino Electric Lighting company in August. Sep-
tember 17 , Anderson and L'kiah stage held up, and Barnett killed. January
12, 1898, mercury lowest ever known in L'kiah, twelve degrees. More rail-
roads projected. Earthquake, April 14; no damage; severe on coast about
Navarro. The Smith-Borel party sold their stock in S. F. & N. P. to A. W.
Foster syndicate, together with the North Coast railroad in November.
In 1899, consolidation of two electric light plants, and raise of price
of service, caused a bond election for building a plant, $18,000. Fire, July
17, burned east front of block on State street, between Stevenson and Church,
fully insured. Healey, Tibbets & Co. awarded contract for bridge on east
fork of river, at Bailey place, $4,000. Railroad rumors. Surveys made
from Healdsburg to Anderson, and from Ukiah to Low Gap. Twelfth Dis-
trict f i.ir, 4th to 7th of October. Rudee block built, corner State and Stand-
ley.
In 1900, drilling for oil west part of town. International Geodetic sur-
vey located an observatory southwest of town. In 1902. five bear killed on
one hunt. J. L. Burchard died January 7, J. H. Donohoe on the 15th. Steam
laundry inaugurated by Albertson & Co. Estimate of redwood timber at
this date, in the county, 434,320 acres, 17,272.000,000 feet. J. R. Moore died
April 30, a pioneer of 1857. Albion & Southeastern railroad incorporated
for $1,000,000, to run up the Albion and to Boonville. W. H. Kent tree
yielded 100,000 feet. July 23, a party left for Trinity pine region to locate
homesteads. James Wilsey, in that vicinity, took 33,000 deer hides in
eleven years. J. H. Seawell died August 24. In 1904, hold-up men made
78 MEXDlJCIXO AXD LAKE COUNTIES
several attempts. Several days in April mercury above ninety degrees ; hot-
test for month on record before, eighty-eight degrees. High school athletic
team has won eight field days. L. Finne, Calpella, makes 6,000 to 8,000 gal-
lons of vi^ine per annum. Ships east, and to Asti. December 27, two brown
bears strayed into west part of town. Daniel Gobbi, a pioneer, died January
17, 1905. Eel River Power company incorporated February 10, $500,000;
work begun in March. Eversole block completed in February. Two mil-
lion five hundred thousand hop roots shipped from Ukiah. Local railroad
passed into hands of Southern Pacific. California Western incorporated to
run from Fort Bragg to Willits, in June. Articles of incorporation filed b}'
Southern Pacific in court house, to include Cal. S. P., Arizona S. P., New
Mexico S. P., and Winters, Berryessa and Lake to Mendocino, and Elmira
to Lakeport. M. Gibson's hop house burned, September 4; loss, $5,000;
insurance, $4,100. Spring wool, twenty-eight to thirty and one-fourth cents.
New dam being built at Asylum to hold one million gallons. Fire destroyed
the old White building, east of plaza, November 1st; new brick to go up.
December 22, Sheriff J. H. Smith killed by Frank Willard under arrest ; D.
M. Gibson appointed to fill vacancy. Rural delivery route established as
far south as Largo. Extreme high water January 19, 1906; 5.60 of an inch fell
at Willits. Stores all agreed to close at 6 P. M., except Saturday. Two
hundred and fifty thousand grape cuttings brought up from Asti. Eel River
Power company reorganized as Snow Mountain Water and Power com-
pany; capital, $5,000,000. Principal stockholders. Senator Fulton, Gen. Gra-
ham and T. Hopkins. April 18. earthquake. Rudee block thrown eight
inches out of plumb, pushing the new White brick over also. North wall of
McGlashan building thrown out down to tops of upper windows. I. O. O. F.
hall badly cracked on east end. Chimneys generally thrown down, book-
cases emptied. State hospital lost a tower, and water tank removed from it.
Odd Fellows removed east wall and built on a large dining room and kitchen ;
White building taken down to the ground and rebuilt. Rudee's building
was shifted back to plumb without great loss. Dr. Stout's well-appointed
medical rooms were still further equipped with an X-ray machine. Higgins
store, in Law building, burned out ; loss, $3,500, fully insured. Library
established in Eversole building. Stitt's barn, five horses, hay and buggies
burned. Another day the old one-story shacks west of the plaza. The entire
cost of Mendocino State hospital, $607,550. 1907, snow. Brewery company
incorporated and first beer, February 14. March 16-17. heavy rain, 8.40 inches
in two days. River within sixteen inches of bridge. Snow Alountain W^ater
and Power company filed mortgage. $1,250,000. C. Hofman company in-
corporated, $75,000," I\Iarch 26. ^California Northwestern $35,000,000 mort-
gage filed, to Farmers' Loan and Trust company, June 18. July 27, stage
held up at Cold creek. U. R. K. P. in camp at Todd's grove, August 12. R.
McGarvey died October 17, eighty-two years of age. Mendocino Vineyard
company incorporated November 20. December, hops six and eight cents ;
old, only two cents.
Stage again held up at Cold creek. January 15, 1908. Jail record : One
hundred and thirty-six committed ; nine sent to San Quentin. Creamery,
March 2. Electric power into town, from Snow Mountain Water and Power
company. Articles of incorporation filed, South Eel River Timber company ;
H. B. Hickey and others. Pressey and Jackson houses, corner Stevenson
and State, burned. April 1st, electricity turned on from new line. Auto-
MEXDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 79
mobiles on Eureka route. April 30, Evans & Orr planing mill burned ; loss,
$4,000, to George McCowen, owner. J. M. Standley, a sheriff of renown,
died at Portland, Jul)' 8. McKinley, Gibson, and Weldon & Held brick and
cement buildings completed. October 16, sufficient rain to raise Eel river.
Hop crop 9,680 bales ; average weight, one hundred and ninety pounds ;
14,000 pounds of turkey shipped in two days. 1909, nine inches of rain for
the week ending January 15. Meteorological report for January by Dr.
McCowen ; temperature from twenty-four to sixty-three degrees ; greatest
rainfall, 14th, 3.60 inches ; for the month, 30.75 inches ; other heavy rain-
falls, February, 1892, 19.40; November, 1895, 19.11; March, 1907, 18.18; Jan-
uary, 1913, 19.14 inches. May 3, H. L. Kohn's residence burned. Twenty-
two petitions for "wet or dry" elections presented to board of supervisors.
Constable T. Lynch shot, fatally, by Indian Dick Williams, who later com-
mitted suicide. Another oil well to be tried. July 28, fire again west of
plaza, in old shacks repaired from previous fire. Lindell Foster brought in
one hundred and forty-five pound deer, August 1. September 23, second
battalion, United States Fourteenth Cavalry, and detachment of signal corps,
in camp. Sim's saloon burned out May 2; loss, $4,000; insurance, $2,500.
Vierra & Scontranini put in lOO-horsepower engine, ten-inch pump, 1,900 feet
eight-inch pipe, to irrigate alfalfa in Coyote. Making cheese. On Mendocino
road a panther came in a dooryard, caught and carried oft' a goat and two
pigs. May 11, 1910. W. A. Hagaus. a pioneer, died July 15, 1911. Post Office
savings bank instituted in town. July 20, hops forty cents. September 25,
Ukiah voted for license by small majority. Second district, ditto ; third dis-
trict, no license by three majority. Ordinance closing saloons on Sunday at
10 P. M. ; $200 license per year. Thirty million-gallon reservoir being built
on Mill creek for Mendocino State hospital. Dam, forty feet high, forty-
three feet thick at base. Superintendent E. W. King had a leg amputated
December 11. W. D. White building, $2,000 fire.
E. W. King resigned from Asylum, to take effect May 1, 1912, having
been superintendent nineteen years. In March, J. L. McNab appointed
United States district attorney. Crystal ice works opened in April. June 14,
board of town trustees passed resolution appropriating $800 annually for
support of the library. June 19, dwelling of W. I. Bailey burned. W. J.
Hildreth ranch sold for $75,000; bargained for $25,000 three years ago. Con-
tract let for closing the gap in the railroad to Humboldt. July, electric power
lines being put up about the valley. County Assessor M. A. Thomas died
July 29. Sanford hop kiln burned ;'loss, $7,000; insurance, $2,000. Dr. R. L.
Richards, late of the United States Medical corps, appointed superintendent
of the Mendocino State hospital. State highway in process of construction
from Ukiah to Forsythe creek. (Finished June, 1914.)
January 10, 1913, mercury at fifteen degrees. T. E. Garner shipped $25,-
000 worth of hogs in last three months. An old landmark burned — Van
Dusen saloon, east of plaza — erected in 1859. Wool, nineteen and twenty
cents. Manganese globular safe for County Treasurer's office. Treasurer
reported $212,182 in the county treasury. Ukiah house, a relic of 1859,
demolished. August, a limb eighteen inches in diameter, reported broken
off by the weight of wild pigeons roosting on it. Irrigation system inaug-
urated from the river below the mouth of .Ackerman creek. A fourteen-
inch centrifugal pump installed, discharging into a ditch seven feet wide
at the top, four feet on the bottom, eighteen inches deep, one mile long.
80 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
City free deliver)' inaugurated August 1st. W. J. Kline killed three eagles.
George Kinloch, first white child born in California, died in Ukiah August
28, aged eighty-four years. In its first season the local winery received 1,723
tons of grapes, $25,000. Hops down from twenty to eighteen cents in De-
cember; sixteen cents offered for 1914 crop. December 16, hearing before
the commission on rate for electricity for the town. Decision favor of town.
In 1914 supervisors decide to take $150000 of highway bonds. Treasurer
reports $260,955 in county treasury. February 4, board of trade incorporated.
A business man's association has been formed to bring uniformity of action
on all public questions. The library was completed and formally opened on
the 17th of April. The lot was purchased by subscription, raised by the
personal efiforts of Miss Carrie Garnsey and ]\Irs. A. O. Carpenter, and $8,000
contributed for the building by Mr. Carnegie. About the same time the
new opera house was finished by a joint stock company.
Ukiah valley is one of the best and most extensive hop growing sec-
tions of the state. The hops are of the best quality, and the yield is from
1,600 to 2,300 pounds per acre. They are three weeks earlier in maturing
than in Sonoma, and less likely to be troubled with lice, on account of the
absence of fog. There are about 2,000 acres in the valley used for this
crop, and much more land that might be devoted to it profitably. It costs
about nine cents per pound to make and market the crop, so that when the
price soars to forty, there is a fortune in a ten-acre tract. The crop of
1913 amounted to over 16,000 bales. Corn makes a good crop on the river
bottoms, and is often without a drop of rain or any irrigation from planting
to harvest. Alfalfa yields three crops without irrigation, and is fast absorb-
ing all the river lands not used for hops. It yields abundantly on the higher
lands, but it is difficult to get it started there.
About two hundred acres in the valley are devoted to prunes, which
rank at the top for quality. There are six extensive vegetable gardens about
Ukiah, which furnish the town, and products are shipped north to a consider-
able extent. Of fruit, every kind is grown to perfection, though figs, apricots
and nectarines are not generally cultivated. Walnuts are found everywhere,
but in no large tracts.
The town of Ukiah was first limited to one mile square with the court
house for the center. Later its boundaries were extended nearly half a mile
to the west, taking in all to the mountains. The streets north and south
were originally laid out eighty feet wide, but some on the west have been
reduced to fifty and sixty feet. East and west streets are forty feet wide.
They are all graded, and in the center of town paved, and the main street
from the northern to the southern line. There are fifty business brick build-
ings in town and two brick dwellings, high school, two grammar schools,
seven churches, an opera house that seats one thousand, another of five hun-
dred capacity, four garages with machinery for repair work, two planing
mills with lumber yards, two lumber yards', three blacksmiths, one
vegetable market, one gristmill, four livery stables, one saddlery, two fish
and poultry markets, three second-hand stores, two furniture and under-
taking establishments, one clothing, three shoe, three drug and four hard-
ware stores, two plumbers, one paint store, two billiard halls, seven saloons,
two butchers, three tailors, one electric shop, two jewelry stores, five barbers,
two cand)' stores, two bakeries, one creamery, three restaurants, two coffee
houses, four restaurants and lodging combined, three hotels, three depart-
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 81
ment stores, two dry goods, three miscellaneous stores, three news stores,
eight real-estate offices, four printing offices, seven notaries, three banks,
four dentists, eight law offices, a gas plant and a fine large new library-
building with several thousand volumes, and last, but not least, a fine town
hall building, covering council room, tax collector's office, electric depart-
ment and jail. The town possesses eight physicians, all in apparent good
health. There is no malaria in the neighborhood, except imported cases,
which soon recover; no mosquitos except an occasional one comes up in
the cars from Alarin or Petaluma.
The town has an adequate sewer .system, and the water supply is lim-
ited only by the power of steam or electricity. An ample supply is always
assured, and pumps can be used anywhere within the town limits in case of
emergency, and the quality is unsurpassed, as it really is over the whole
county. A telephone system covers town and valley. A fine grist mill
supplies all wants in that direction ; a large winery runs every season, and
the expansion of irrigation sj'stems is constantly adding to the productions
of the soil.
The Mendocino State hospital for the insane, with its payroll of nearly
$92,500 per annum, is no small factor in the prosperity of the community.
The bulk of its supplies comes from the outside world, but pays a certain toll,
on their way, to our community. The original purchase of land for the
location was made in 1889; one hundred acres, $30,000. Since then an ad-
joining farm has been bought, and large crops of corn and alfalfa raised to
make the dairy self-supporting. The grounds now consist of nine hundred
:ind five acres, three hundred and three of which are und.er cultivation, much
of which is under irrigation, in corn, alfalfa and vegetables. The total value
of all the farm products of dairy, poultry, eggs, etc., amounts to $31,000 per
annum. Fifty milk cows, thirty-five heifers, mostly Holsteins ; one hundred
hogs, two thousand chickens and many horses comprise the live stock of the
establishment, and a large part of the labor is supplied by the inmates, who
are perceptibly benefited by their participation therein. Outside of salaries,
,"^239.000 was appropriated by the state for the sixty-fifth and sixty-sixth
fiscal years. It is conceded to be the best and most economically managed of
all the state institutions. Its corps of physicians, and an interne, ninety-three
male and thirty-five female employes, stand high in the regard of the state
board of control, and of the public who are brought in contact with them.
There are at present over one thousand inmates.
Ukiah has its watering places or health resorts, not to be neglected
l)y either the invalid or pleasure seeker. Vichy Springs, three miles east, so
named for the similarity of its waters to those of the celebrated Vichy of
Cicrmany, had a wide reputation among the Indians for curative power,
and has lost none of it among more civilized frequenters. It has recently
changed hands, and another year is to be improved and placed where it
belongs, both in fashion and popularity. Orr's Hot Sulphur Springs, four-
teen miles west, situated at the foot of a precipitous verdure-covered bluff,
five hundred feet high, just in the edge of the redwood belt, are justly
celebrated in rheumatic complaints, and a delightful resort for a summer
outing. The springs yield sufficient gas to light the place, and heat a man-
gle, and probably would aft'ord enough to heat the hotel and cottages if
developed to the fullest extent.
82 MEXDOCIXO AND LAKE COUNTIES
The county farm, for'the care of its indigents, is located just outside the
town limits, and is a credit to the county and a source of profit to the town.
North of Ukiah valley lie both Redwood and Coyote valleys, in the same
township, however. Redwood commences at the hamlet of Calpella, named
after an Indian — Kol-pellah — some six miles north of Ukiah, and stretches
along the middle fork of Russian river about eight miles. It is only one
farm wide the most of the way, lying between benches of upland, and is
exceedingly fertile along the river bottom, and the low bordering hills are
being brought into cultivation for vineyards and orchards. Calpella con-
sists of store, hotel, blacksmith shop, and eight or ten dwellings, but is im-
portant as the voting place of a wide section of country, including both
Redwood and Coyote valleys, with a registered vote of nearly two hundred.
Coyote valley is a small valley on the east fork of Russian river, four
miles north of Ukiah, containing nine farms. One of these contains one
thousand acres of mountain and valley, and has an extensive pump-
ing plant to irrigate over one hundred acres devoted to alfalfa, cheese and
chickens. Several of the others are also irrigated by the same means, for
alfalfa and fruit. In former days a grist mill ground out a busy existence in
the north end of the valley, but flood first, and fire later, closed its existence.
A large tract, for so small a valley, which was once a waste of high chemissal,
scrub oak and manzanita, is now a smiling grain field. A series of pumping
plants furnish the water to sprinkle the highwav from Ukiah to and through
Coyote.
In the eighties there existed a park association, and race meets and
animal shows were held yearly for some years, but a mortgage ate up the
stockholders' interests, and it passed into private hands. Occasionally it is
still the scene of such contests. The town of Ukiah has purchased a square
of two acres or more in the southern limit for park purposes, where will
probably be held all fairs in the future.
In a fraternal way. Ukiah is not blest to the extent of Fort Bragg, as
none of the foreign population have entered into this competition. But there
are enough, and man}- honored names appear on their list of officers : First,
always in the field, come the ^Masons" several organizations :
Abell Lodge, F. & A. M.. was instituted June 19, 1860, with charter
members as follows : J. B. Price. M. Y. Cleveland, N. S. Fanning, William
Henry, L. M. Warden, O. H. P. Brown, and J. A. Shore. The first officers,
both under dispensation and charter, were J. B. Price, W. M. ; M. V. Cleve-
land, S. W. ; N. S. Fanning. J. W. ; William Henry, Treas. ; L. M. Warden,
and G. C. Smith, Secy. The present officers are F. T. Barker, W. M. ; Hale
-McCowen, Jr., S. W. ; P. ^^". Handy. J. W. ; J. R. :\Iatthews. Treas. : Ed V.
Henley, Secy. Membership, one hundred and thirty.
Ukiah Chapter No. 53, instituted July 3, 1878. Charter members : J. W.
Jenkins, J. L. Burchard, T. L. Carothers, J. H. Donohoe, T. L. Barnes,
J. Updegrafif, L. D. Montague, B. C. Bellamy, George McCowen, S. Horn-
brook, J. Albertson. The first officers were J. W. Jenkins, M. E. H. P. ;
E. W. King, E. K. ; G. W. Heald. G. S. ; J. S. Reed, Treas. : Sam Wheeler,
Secy. The present officers are T. P. Anderson. E, H. P.: William Finne.
K.;'f. T. Barker. S. ; J. H. Barker. Treas.; C. U. White, Secy. Membership,
eighty.
Ukiah Commanderv No. 33, instituted March 17, 1892. Present officers:
T. M. Cleland, E. C. ; l" W. Babcock, G. : J. R. Matthews, C. G. ; J. D. Palmer,
A'lENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 83
S. W. ; G. P. Anderson, J. W.; F. C. Gowell, Recorder; J. H. Barker, Treas.
Membership, fifty-six.
Kingsley Chapter, O. E. S., instituted July 23, 1881. Charter members:
W. L. Bransford, Patron; M. E. P. McCowen, W. M.; Emma Metzgar,
W. A. M. Present officers : Ella McCracken, W. M. ; Ed. D. Henley, W. P. ;
Delia McKay, W. A. M. ; Martha Toles, Secy. ; Emma Cranz. Treas. Mem-
bership, one hundred and fifty.
Casimir Chapter, O. E. S., instituted April 13, 1907. Present officers:
Celia Lobree, W. M. ; William Finne, W. P. ; Martha H. Redemeyer, A. W.
M. ; Nellie F. Gibson, C. ; S. B. Hatch, Secy.
Ukiah Lodge No. 174, L O. O. F., instituted July 20, 1870. Charter
members : E. W. King, N. Ellis, C. Hofman, J. R. Short, J. P. Clark, Robert
White, W. W. Cunningham, W. H. White. First officers: E. W. King,
N. G. ; C. Hofman, V. G. ; N. Ellis, Secy. ; J. R. Short, Treas. Present officers
are: L. H. Foster, N. G. ; B. D. Van Nader, V. G.; W. O. White. Secy.;
J. Roller, Treas. Membership, one hundred and fourteen.
A. O. U. W., Ukiah Lodge No. 33, instituted May 14. 1878. Present
officers: W. D. L. Held, W. M. ; L. P. Anker, F.; N. Anker. Fin.; A. O.
Carpenter, Recorder. Membership, twelve.
Fraternal Brotherhood, Ukiah No. 263, instituted December 18, 1902.
Officers : Oscar Olsen, P. ; Frank Olsen, V. P. ; Al Sawyers. Treas. ; Jerry
Olsen, Secy. Members, seventy.
Yokia Camp 369, W. O. W., instituted April, 1898. Present officers:
W. G. Poague, C. C; C. R. Thomas. A. V. L. ; C. H. Duncan. Banker;
C. Bailey, Clerk. Membership, sixty-one.
Ukiah Aerie 319, instituted in May, 1903. Present officers: H. A. Keller,
P. AV. P. ; C. F. Benton. W. P. ; O. L. Olsen, W. V. P. ; O. F. Hargis, W. C. ;
J. C. Warren, W. S. ; W. S. Van Dyke, W. T. Membership, two hundred
and sixty-seven.
Yokaya Tribe 110, L O. R. M., instituted August 16, 1901. Present offi-
cers: G. L. Smith, S. : Fred Figoni, S. S. : S. P. Garaventi. J. R. S. : R. L.
Hutchinson, Proph. ; H. L. Kohn, C. R. ; A. L. Tracy, K. of W.
Ukiah Camp 9017, M. W. A., instituted in December, 1900. Present offi-
cers : W. H. York, C. ; L. J. Holzheiser, A. ; H. L. Kohn, C.
American Yeoman, Independence Homestead No. 1219.
Ukiah No. 63, K. O. T. :\I.. instituted in Tune. 1900. Present officers:
F. P. Bull, L. C; B. F. Davidson. P. C. ; A. W. Custer. K. of R. Member-
ship, thirty-one.
Cornelia Rebekah Lodge No. 205, I. O. O. F., instituted in March, 1894.
Officers: H. M. Carpenter, N. G.; Mrs. Elizabeth Chalfant, V. G.; Sallie
Thomas, Secretary. Present officers : Mrs. Emma Kirtley. N. G. ; Catherine
Sloper. V. G. : Mrs. Kate B. Prather, Secy.; Laura Shattuck. Treasurer.
Membership, one hundred and fifty.
CHAPTER VII
Potter Valley Township
This township was formerly part of Calpella township, which was
divided, the western part annexed to Ukiah. and the eastern part. i. e..
Potter Valley, became a township unto itself. It comprises the drainage
basin of the east fork of Russian river as far south as the head of Covote
•84 iMEXDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Valley, and reaches north to Little Lake Township on Eel river, and east
to the county line of Mendocino and Lake, and is about fifteen miles in
extreme length and ten miles wide.
It has the general climate and soil characteristics of the other interior
valleys — river loam and rich black clover land in the valley and generally
sandy soil on the hills, though in some places the black, almost adobe, shows
in the hills.
The incorporation of Potter Valley includes the whole township prac-
tically and was so made for the purpose of excluding saloons from its neigh-
borhood. The valley proper is seven miles long and two miles wide at
most, and is nearly all in a high state of cultivation, and now that the
waters of Eel river have been turned into the head of Russian river by the
Water and Power Company much irrigation is probable in the near future.
Alfalfa is much raised in the upper end of the valley, and there yields three
good crops without irrigation, and can easily be brought up to six or
eight cuttings, as in the heat of summer it may be cut with profit every
month from May to November. In the southeastern corner of the valley,
J. D. Brower, the pioneer in irrigation there, has a considerable retaining
dam and has been using the water for alfalfa for several years. Hay, wheat,
oats, barley and corn are the principal crops : there are many fine orchards
and three or four hopyards. Potatoes, pumpkins, squashes, beets, carrots,
tomatoes, etc., are grown for home use, but none for market. Premium
watermelons and the "Golden" muskmelon originated here.
Thomas and William Potter and M. C. Briggs were the first whites to
locate in the valley, coming here in 1852, though their families did not
arrive until two or three years later. In 1856-7 John Gardner and
Fowler were in the valley with a band of horses. In 1857 Dick Swift and
Samuel Chase arrived, and Berry Wright and Williams. Samuel Mewhin-
ney and family and John Leonard and family came in the spring of 1858.
In that year also Samuel, Lewis, Stoddard and James Neil, John McCloud,
William Eddy and others. In 1859 the valley was virtually full of settlers.
In that year Thomas McCowen, A. O. Carpenter, Andrew Lefever, William
Van Nader, Samuel McCullough and others arrived. Later the Carner
family. Vans, Wattenberger, Boice, Wolfe, McCreary, Fuller, Pursell
arrived. There is no locality in the county where the old original stock is
so well represented in name and blood as in Potter Valley. Their increase
has overflowed into the surrounding hills and little nooks, intermarried,
and "possessed the land." Recently an agent was in the valley desirous
of purchasing four hundred acres in a body for the purpose of founding a
school, but $200 per acre was no temptation to either old or young.
Building was difficult as the timber was mostly oak in the valley and
pine on the hills and not fitted for log houses. A few of these were put up,
some were built of shakes, both oak and pine — some of the latter was whip-
sawed- — and most of the houses had oak puncheon floors. Two adobes were
also put up and stood for years. By 1863-4 roads were dug out so that
redwood was brought in from the western branch of the river, some
eighteen to twenty miles, though this also was split lumber. A little sawed
lumber was procurable from the head of Redwood valley, from Reed's mill,
and some from Holden's mill on Ackerman creek. A sawmill was built by
William Van Nader in 1874 on the mountain east of the valley, but it was
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 85
of too small caliber to do more than furnish finishing and flooring, and it
was afterwards moved to Round valley and taken by the government. Prac-
tically all the lumber for the many fine houses and large barns in the valley
has been hauled by teams from twelve to twenty-five miles, as well as a
majority of the fencing. Wire fencing was then unknown, but is now
taking the place of the wornout redwood pickets and oak rails.
In the early times supplies were packed in from Healdsburg, and it was
no uncommon occurrence for a horse to knock itself ofif the narrow trail
and go rolling down the mountainside. Experience taught them to give a
tree or rock more room for their packs when passing.
The road out of the valley to Coyote was made by private work, some
men voluntarily laboring twenty to thirty days on it. A road was also
made north toward Round Valley, and a branch of it to Little Lake. Even-
tually there was another over the divide to Eel river and up to Gravelly valley.
L. B. Frazier built a steam mill about ten miles out on Sanhedrin, in the
yellow and sugar pine timber, and moved it nearer as the timber was ex-
hausted. The sugar pine was mostly shipped to San Francisco, and the
yellow pine used in the box factory in Ukiah. In early days, from 1861 to
1865, political feeling was bitter; and at the time of the death of Lincoln
three arrests were made in the valley, Thad W . Dashiell and John McCall
(for rejoicing at the death of Lincoln), and a school teacher, Miss Buster
(for trampling the flag under foot). They were soon released and returned
to the valley. In after years Mr. Dashiell was taken to task for voting the
Republican ticket. His only reply was, "I packed sand at Alcatraz for the
privilege of expressing my opinion." Separate schools were maintained at
one time, with politics rather than geography as a dividing line.
One of the first Fourth of July celebrations that the county witnessed
was held in this valley. For music William Van Nader manufactured a drum
by cutting a section of a fir tree, hollowing it out, heading it with deer
<kins, and in the morning its resonance could be heard the whole length of
the valley.
Dances were held at private houses lasting from dark to daylight, and
sometimes a breakfast was served to favored guests who were nOt in a
hurry to go home. Quilting and fencing bees were often held, thus helping
the husband and wife at the same time. And the people collected just as
hilariously to labor for a sick neighbor as they did to dance at his husking.
Occasionally a bear hunt enlivened the leisure hours, and more than one
was tracked through the valley to the chemissal around, and brought home
in triumph. Not always, though, for on one occasion a huge-footed beast
was tracked along the western slope the whole length of the valley and
far into the hills north. At another time, following the bear into the brush,
the hunters found themselves surrounded by three bears, and backed out
to more advantageous positions, securing one of the trio eventually. Wild
oats covered the hills and clover the valley, either or both growing to the
height of three feet, and game w^as abundant. In 1858 bear would nighth"
prowl around and investigate the rail-making operations of settlers, but
not take a hand at it. If the farmer needed meat, and was too busy to
hunt, a rifle and a few l)ullets were given "Hunter Jim,'" and venison ap-
peared on the supper table — but not bear meat. No Indian would molest
Hruin. Rears were believed to emiiody the spirits of bad Indians.
86 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Potter has ever been a temperance community, and it has been many
years since a saloon flourished here. In an early day the "Sons of Tem-
perance" was established there, but died out, yet its influence remained.
Over the hill on Eel river several times a saloon has been opened, and on the
southern line of the township, at Cold creek, another, but the supervisorial
district having voted dry this latter has been transformed to a soft drink
emporium. The town was incorporated in July, 1889, and includes so large a
portion of the township that it is practically all of it. The present officers
are: Trustees, C. B. Neil, D. Burkhardt; John Gavin, Mayor, T. P. Hopkins,
Treas. The assessed valuation for 1913 was $489,961 ; tax rate, seventy-five
cents; population in 1910, 576, with a registered vote of 179. The registra-
tion for the municipal election of 1914, of course, includes the female voters
and is 270.
Fine corn is raised in the valley without irrigation, frequently without
a shower upon it from planting to harvest. Alfalfa is constantly increasing
its area, and now that the waters of Eel river are available for pumping
and even for ditching much more will be sown with a purpose of beef and
pork production.
The Snow Mountain Water and Power Company's enterprise has
greatly benefited the valley, though some consider it a detriment, on account
of its increasing the flow of water in Russian river to the extent of washing
the banks. This enterprise has its head in Gravelly valley, fifteen miles
easterly in Lake count}'. There a dam 140 feet high and 600 feet long
is proposed, which will impound 2500 acres of water, backing it up the main
stream seven miles and up Rice fork three miles. A careful measurement
of the water flow was had all through the season in 1905, and at the dam
site the stream (Eel river) raised nineteen feet one day, running five miles
an hour and 250 feet wide. It was estimated that there was water enough
in that one day to supply San Francisco three years. Shafts have been
sunk 75 and 100 feet on either side of the river at the dam -site and a tunnel
run under the channel to connect them in the endeavor to locate the bed
rock. It was the intention to construct a cement core dam twenty feet or
more thick, and then fill the channel full above and below with detritus
from the high hill on both sides for 800 feet, and locate the overflow half a
mile distant through a low gap in the ridge, returning the water to the
stream a half mile below the dam. Whether this plan still holds we may
not say. Something over a million dollars has been spent on the project,
but not needlessly, as it is being used for electric purposes without this large
projected retaining dam. Two miles north of Potter, by road, is a diverting
dam of 300 feet length, forty-foot base, sixty-five feet high. From this a
tunnel was run 5900 feet through the mountain to Potter. There is a twenty-
foot head above the tunnel, which is 6x7 feet clear and has 400 feet fall to the
dynamos in the valley. The tunnel is mostly in serpentine rock, cemented
on the bottom and timbered sides and top. There are two lines of service
pipe from the tunnel down the hill to the dynamos, three in number, of 4000
horsepower each, and room for another in the power house. Electricity
is furnished for Potter valley, Ukiah town and valley. Lake county, nearly
all of Sonoma county and considerable for Napa. The system connects
with the Bay Counties' system, so that mutual assistance is rendered in
time of need. The Bay Counties is short of power in the winter, while the
Snow Mountain is short in the late summer. Eventually the water from
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 87
the dynamos will be ditched along the hill base on both sides of Russian
river, and then will the whole territory blossom as the rose from April to
December. The water may be easily taken out again in two diiiferent
places between Ukiah and Cloverdale and its good work be multiplied.
What the intention of the company is in regard to the water after it leaves
its dynamos, no one can say except themselves, and they have not spoken
except to say that if the farmers will dig the ditches they will supply the
water at $3 per acre per annum. Meantime several are pumping the water
without paying for the privilege.
Some of the best soil in the State lies in Potter, but it has been fear-
fully abused, cropped year after year, or, rather, decade after decade, return-
ing nothing of what has been taken off, not even the straw, which has been
generally burned. Of late years much hay has been shipped out, besides
the grain, and this course has had its effect. The first wheat in the valley
threshed sixty-six bushels to the acre, and now the same land, after fifty
years' constant cropping, yields only twenty bushels, though five and one-
quarter acres recently yielded three hundred bushels.
Fruit, especially pears, apples and plums, luxuriate, of unsurpassed
flavor and coloring, and peaches yield crops about three years out of five.
Prunes also are excellent, but are not generally raised. Hops yield heavily
of first-class quality. Not much is done in root crops except at the upper
end of the valley, where beets and potatoes thrive.
Minerals there are on every side: Copper, gold, manganese, etc., but no
one has ever made expenses in working the leads. Alabaster exists in the
mountains north and asbestos also.
There are three schools in the valley, which are open about nine or
ten months in the year, in charge of competent teachers.
Two large farms in the valley have been purchased by Russians, one
of which has been cut in long, narrow sub-divisions, half a mile long and
a few rods wide, after the old country custom. They have built their houses
on the comparatively worthless hill ground and cross the river to their
daily toil. The women do much of the farm work, while the men work out
or are off in San Francisco or the coast mills at work.
At one time there was a grist mill on the southern line of the township,
but the miller grew old with his mill, and it burned down just after its insur-
ance ran out. It had once been drowned out, but was moved to higher
ground, and the ditch which brought water for its wheel was run higher up
the stream. It finally had an engine as auxiliary power. The water is now
used for irrigation purposes. .A mill company was formed in 1891-2 and a
grist mill built in the lower end of the valley. The incorporation of the
company followed in 1898, but it did not run long thereafter.
Spottswood's hop kiln was burned in 1883 with his crop of hops: loss
815,000, insurance $1,000. In 1891 a scheme for irrigation by ditch from
Eel river was broached, but came to nothing. Eraser built a new bridge on
the river in November, 1891, above Coal creek, and the same has been re-
built in 1913. In February, 1896, Robert Marders' four-horse team went
off the grade, down seventy-five feet, with only trifling injury. In 1898 an
ear of corn was on exhibition measuring eleven inches long and nine inches in
circumference. And George Shinn originated the Golden muskmelon, which
rivals Burbank's creations.
88 MEXDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
In the last five years there have been twenty-five good residences built — ■
perhaps the best by A. F. Busch, in the past year, which has all the modern
improvements save an elevator. The valley has been singularly free from
fires, only the one hop house and one dwelling house having been burned
in the recollection of the oldest inhabitant living.
Colonel Marders, one of the ill-fated victims of the tunnel-train fire in
Mexico, was born and grew to manhood in this valley. The valley boasts a
monthly paper, issued by Irvine & Muir, the Commercial Bulletin. There are
three grammar schools in the valley, well attended and open from nine to
ten months in the year. There are two churches in the town of Centerville.
two stores, drug store, blacksmith shop, liotel, livery stable, barber shop and
about twenty dwellings. The town is situated in the center of the valley,
with a postoffice in one of the stores and daily mail from San Francisco via
Ukiah.
The valley has its quota of orders; the principal ones in interest are as
follows :
Potter Valley Lodge No. 215, A. O. V. W., was instituted January.
1890. Eli Jones." W. M.: Rose Sides, Secy.: J. Eddy. O. : M. R.'Bevens,
Treas.
Fraternal Brotherhood No. 764 was instituted September 9, 1910.
Present members, twelve. Officers: Fred Bucknell, Pres. : Leon T. Grover.
V. P.; Mrs. Charles .\. Carner, Sec: Charles A. Carner, Treas.
A. O. F.— Officers: J. G. Newman, C. R. ; Fred Sagehorn, S. C. R. ; N. A.
Barnett, Treas. ; H. O. Sweeney, R. S. Members, forty-one.
Potter Valley Grange No. 115, instituted in July, 1874. E. V. Jones,
W. M.; James Eddie, O. : Miss Rose Sides, Sec. Fifty-six members. The
society possesses a two-story store and hall, and has $300 cash in its treas-
urv, which is augmented $250 per annimi from the rent of its store building.
CHAPTER VIII
Sanel Township
Sanel township lies entirely on the tributaries of Russian river, and the
main stream, and in the winter just past, 1913-14, Russian river reversed
conditions and laid on Sanel township. It is bounded north by Ukiah, east
by Lake county and west by Anderson township, with which it joins to
form the First supervisorial district. It takes its name from the name of its
main valley, and that from the Indian tribe which formerly owned the
territory comprised in the township.
Its soil and climate are the same as Ukiah, with a little more of the drift
of southern fog, which often tempers the heat of summer mornings. Its
productions are much the same as Ukiah, and the larger part of the valley is
given over to hops and alfalfa to the exclusion of other crops. Of fruit it
produces quite a large quantit\- of pears and prunes, which are of surpassing
quality.
The hill land is generally of a better quality than other localities and
aflfords the best of grazing and. indeed, good crops of grain wherever utilized
for that purpose. In 1863-4, ciuite a tract was cultivated in tobacco, but
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 89
early and heavy rains created so damp an atmosphere (which was not taken
into account in the curing) that the product resulted in an almost total loss.
The entire valley was covered by a grant procured in 1844 by Ferdinado
j-'eliz. comprising four leagues of land extending from the Seven Mile House
to the southern end of the main Sanel valley. Feliz brought in cattle not
long after that date and erected an adobe house 30x50 feet square just south
of the present town of Hopland. His family was located here before 1853,
and in 1854 Luiz Pena and others joined him. Feliz sold land at ridicu-
lously low prices to any who would buy. and his descendants have nothing
left of the huge domain but a town lot in East Hopland. John Knight was
Feliz' legal adviser and immediately present friend, and was instrumental
in procuring the confirmation of his grant, and received for his services the
northernmost league of the grant. This latter tract took the name of
Knight's Valley, and now is occupied by the three Crawford ranches, two
Henrys, McGlashan, McNab, Parsons and some smaller tracts. In 1856
Alfred Higgins and family and H. VVillard arrived. In 1857 the new ar-
rivals were Amos Snufifins, J. A. Knox, John McGlashan, and J. W. Daw;
1858 witnessed the advent of S. Myers, W. E. Parsons, L. F. Long, B. B.
Fox and E. H. Duncan, soon followed by William Andrews, R. Moore,
George McCain, P. A. Roach, C. Snufifins, B. E. Edsall, J. R. Henry, H. G.
Pike and William Cole. Of these not one is now living, W. E. Parsons, the
last survivor, having died suddenly early in 1914. Of the generally large
tracts settled upon only one or two are now occupied by their descendants.
In the extreme southern portion of the township is a settlement called
Hermitage, so named by S. W. Knowles, who settled there in 1858, bringing
a drove of cattle from Sonoma. The venture not succeeding well, he went
back to Sonoma, returning again in 1859. He raised the first hops in Men-
docino county, drying them in the loft of his barn and selling them in Peta-
luma for thirty cents per pound. The business seemed promising, and he
tried another crop, but having no contract, the buyer in Petaluma offered
only twelve and one-half cents, and that killed the business at once. Her-
mitage is not even a hamlet, but a continuation of farms along a narrow
valley on the headwaters of Dry creek, to the Knowles place, where long
was the post office, just at the head of the rough canon that engulfs Dry
creek on its way to Russian river at Healdsburg. The valley is so narrow
that the proposed railroad extension from the Albion cannot help being detri-
mental to the immediate farming interests by reason of cutting througli the
best lands they have.
The town of Hopland was located at Sanel in 1859 by Knox. U'illard
and Connor with a saloon. Soon afterward Thomas Harrison opened up a
store in a tent, but sold to Connor, who had disposed of his saloon interest.
Dr. H. G. Pike settled there as physician, removing to a mountain home
on the -Anderson valley road, and returning many years after to die. Yates
Weldon began blacksmithing in that year also. In 1874 the building of a
toll road down the east side of the river threw all the travel that way, and
the town of Sanel moved over bodily (except a brick store which \\'. W.
Thatcher had built in 1870) and became Hopland. The town flourished
until the building of the railroad on the west side of the river and the estab-
lishment of a depot at the old town, when nearly all the business fluttered
back to be brooded by the spirit of progress once more at Sanel. But,
through some freak of good fortune. Hopland retained its post office and
90 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
name for several years, until the department, learning of the proximity of the
two offices, consolidated the two at Sanel and called it Hopland, and so it
now is. The town boasts one large two-story brick block and one brick
store ; all the rest are of wood and nearly all are one-story structures. The
business houses now occupied are as follows : Two hotels, three general
stores, one blacksmith shop, one shoe shop, one barber shop, one livery, one
feed stable, two fruit and ice cream parlors, three churches (Methodist,
Catholic and Christian), one school, one public hall, and about twenty dwell-
ings. The hall is occupied twice a week with the "movies" and dances are
frequent.
A large acreage of the valley is in alfalfa, pears, prunes and hops, and
but little grain is raised. A considerable part of the main valley is subject
to overflow, but not to a damaging extent. Dairying is carried on to a
limited extent ; the largest dairy, on the Foster ranch, was discontinued, and
Durham cattle, Hungarian ponies and chickens superseded Jerseys. This
ranch is one of the finest and best improved in the county, and is owned by
A. W. Foster of San Rafael, whose son, Benjamin, is now in charge. An
older son, Robert, was electrocuted on the place in May, 1914. They have
the most elaborate outfit for the poultry business to be found anywhere, and
all breeds worth mentioning. D. M. Burns of ''mazuma" fame has a large
range devoted at .present to Hereford cattle. Formerly it was run to fine
blooded horses. Four miles south of Hopland is the Hood ranch, where a
large tract is devoted to fine Merino sheep.
In 1911 an eflfort was made to interest the California Northwestern in
the building of a branch road from Hopland to Lakeport, but that road
would only agree to furnish rails and terminal facilities at Hopland and take
bonds for the same. Capital to the amount of $80,000 was subscribed, an-".;
has been expended on six and one half miles of road bed, the easiest part of
the proposed road. Heavy grading, a 1300-foot tunnel and twenty-three
miles more stare the projectors in the face, and nothing has been done for
over a year. C. M. Flammond. Pres.; M. C. Gopcevic, Vice Pres. ; Joseph
Levy, Treas. ; Euvelle Howard, Secy., were the first officers. The present
officers are : L. H. Bogg, Pres. ; M. S. Sayre, Vice Pres. ; James Levy, Treas. :
R. B. Woodward, Secy. Total cost of road, including equipment, estimated
at SS.SO.OOO.
There are two roads from the township to Lake county, a toll road from
Pieta, four miles south of Hopland, intersected three miles out by a road
from Hopland, and a county road from Hopland. There is also a road over
the mountain to Yorkville, and two roads south to Cloverdale. One of
these is generally appropriated by the State highway now nearly completed
from Cloverdale to Hopland. Two roads also connect the town with Ukiah,
on either side of the river, altogether making about forty miles of public
roads to keep in repair.
A cannery company was organized in 1901, with a capital of $3,000,
mainly for Bartlett pears, which reach their highest perfection in this valley.
Its officers at present are J. W. Harris, Pres. ; S. E. Brooks, Secy, and Treas.
The Bank of Hopland was organized in 1906, through the efforts of
J. W. Harris, first as a branch of Cloverdale Bank, but later, in 1912, it be-
came an independent bank, with C. B. Shaw, Pres. ; S. E. Brooks, Vice
Pres.; J. W. Harris, Secy, and Cashier: Emmett Jones, Asst. Cashier; J. \V.
Hiatt and D. M. Burns, additional directors. At present its statement is as
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 91
follows: Bonds, $10,000; loans, $58,188; cash, $12,846. Contrary capital,
$25,000; surplus and undivided profits, $1023; deposits, $56,211.
Of secret societies the town has been bereft, there having at one time
been several.
Of mines there have been innumerable, but none has paid. Copper and
cinnabar are the principal indications. Having no milling timber except a
little on Dry creek in the extreme southwestern part of the township, only
one mill has flourished, and that only for a short time. Gould, Brush and
\^'alker built a mill on Dry creek in 1866 of 15,000 capacity. After a few
years' run it was moved to the head of the east fork of Russian river, and
eventually was known as Reeves' mill.
L. F. Long has the honor of first introducing the hop industry on a
commercial scale in the county and township, though S. W. Knowles on
Dry creek first demonstrated the adaptability of our climate to this industry
Mr. Long made a fortune in the business and lost it in the same. He died
December 8, 1904.
Sanel and Anderson townships form the First supervisorial district and
have voted "dry" for the second time with a fair working majority. The
town had been a turbulent commvinity before that, and many crimes marked
King Alcohol's reign in this vicinity. Now only one soft drink emporium
usurps the place of five saloons, and it is more than probable that the alco-
holic drouth will continue.
Of summer resorts, Duncan's Springs holds a favored place with the
public. It is one and a half miles south of Hopland on a shoulder of Sanel
Peak — a sharp, triangular mountain rising some 2500 feet above the valley
floor. The Howell family, Brookes & Sanborn incorporated in December,
1895, with $50,000 capital, and the springs have been successfully run since.
McDowell's, four miles east of town, has also been a noted resort, but not
at present open for travelers.
Hopland has had some catastrophes in the past, from which she has
recovered with California elasticity. A business block, store, livery and
saloon burned, with sixteen horses; loss, $28,000; insurance, $9,800. Brookes
house and Sturtevant hophouse burned. The building of the toll road from
Pieta to Highland, 1891, was a heavy blow, as it took away nearly all the
lake travel. The washing away of the bridge at Pieta has restored the
travel to Hopland, but the adoption of automobiles has caused more speedy
passage and little stopping for meals or lodging. August 5, 1908, fire on
Sanel peak drove the wild animals to the valley and fourteen deer were
killed in the fray. Oil indications reported three miles east of town, and
more cinnabar five miles south. E. Dooley's house burned in August, 1906.
A quartz vein was worked for seventy-five feet and $1200 taken out.
92 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
CHAPTER IX
Round Valley Township
This township takes its name from that of its principal valley, and that
from its shape. It lies entirely on the head waters of the easterly sources
of Eel river, and is bounded north by Humboldt and Trinity counties, east
by Tehama, south by Little Lake and west by Little Lake and Long Valley
townships. It is extremely mountainous, being embraced as it were by the
Mayacmas range and an offshoot therefrom, and surrounded by peaks that
exhibit white tops in winter, and on the eastern range snow lies in places
until late summer. It has two considerable valleys, Round and Eden, and
numberless small ones of one farm, size, and much cultivatable land not to
be classed as valley land. Generally both hill and valley land are fertile
and a great deal of it remarkably so. The soil is of the same general char-
acter as the other sections heretofore spoken of, wash loam in the valley's,
with some black land both in the hills and valleys. Indeed, the major part
of the good land in the hills is black clover land, sometimes approaching
adobe. Wherever this latter has been contiguous to the valleys it has made
its mark on the soils therein. This is especially noticeable in the southern
part of Round valley, which has much black land. The northern or upper
end of the valley is more of the wash loam, and when settlement was first
made it was quite swampy and more or less of it was entered as swamp lands.
The cutting down of the creek beds has nearly corrected that, and an ap-
propriation of $8,000 by Congress for clearing the channel lower down the
valley will probably entirely relieve it of surplus water except in midwinter.
The timber is pine of several varieties, including sugar, yellow, digger :
oaks of several varieties, cedar on the highest ridges, madrona and buckeye,
manzanita, mahogany, steel brush, chemissal, etc., for covering of the rocky
hills. The timljer near the valley has been exploited to a great extent, so
that ten or twelve miles' haul is necessary in procuring lumber. Much of the
finishing and roofing stuff is hauled from Branscomb, thirty-five miles, over
two considerable ranges elevated a thousand feet above the valley. Not-
withstanding this handicap, many fine residences have been built in the last
few years, notably in 1912-1913, when some thirty-five or more were erected.
Originally selected by the Indian Department for a reservation station
in the handling of the aboriginal people of northern California, the first
settlers certainly had knowledge of the intention in regard to the valley and
could hardly complain, no matter how much of it the department might have
appropriated to that use. But the vacillating, undetermined course of it.s
agents in later years exasperated those who came in later under the im-
pression that all land not in immediate occupancy and use by the govern-
ment was open to settlement. This condition of aflfairs greatly retarded
the growth and prosperity of the township, and in a measure prevented
permanent improvements of value.
Early Settlement
The date of the first discovery of Round vallev by white men is defi-
nitely fixed as occurring in 1854, but there is an uncertainty as to who it
was. Frank Asbill claims it. and was possibly the first white man in the
valley, though one Williams claims to have seen the valley from the eastern
hills prior to the .Asbills coming into it. Charles Kelsev blazed a trail from
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 93
Clear Lake through Round valley in 1854. To which of the three the honor
belongs is the subject of doubt to some of the old settlers of the valley. It
is conceded that Frank Asbill named both Round and Eden valleys, which
is honor enough for one man. TTie Asbills, Frank and Pierce, passed
through Eden Valley and camped on north or middle Eel river, and in
pursuit of their horses the next morning, May 15, 1854, Frank saw the
valley, reported to his comrades that it was large and nearly round, and
then and there christened it Round valley, and it has since retained the
name and shape. They reported encountering a band of Indians, and in a
"fight" killing forty of them. As these Indians were never known after-
wards to stand up and fight even in defense of their women and homes, the
slaughter may be doubted. The Asbill party did not then remain in the
valley. A few days later another party, consisting of George E., James and
Calvin White, George Hudspeth and Dr. Atkinson, arrived in the valley
from the eastern side. The trail of the Kelsey party was still discernible,
and they had left their names cut on a tree. The White party saw no In-
dians, which certainly indicated the cowardly nature of the natives, as other-
wise they would have attempted reprisals for the deaths inflicted by the
Asbill party. George E. White located a claim, built a cabin and left it in
charge of Charles Brown. As if to claim proprietorship of the valley, he
built a second cabin, and all his actions thereafter were as domineering as
the lord of a principalit}'. Devinna and Craft built the third cabin on what
was afterwards the Melendy farm. Lawson and Arthur built the next house
where now stands the two-story dwelling built by George Henley. The
Lawson and Arthur house was really the beginning of Covelo, the only town
in the township. These latter settlers brought in a drove of hogs, the pro-
genitors of untold thousands. S. Hornbrook came to the valley in 1856. In
1857 John Owens, J. H. Thomas, T. D. Lacock, C. H. Eberle and others
came in, and George E. White and C. H. Bourne brought in two droves of
cattle. C. H. Diggins, S. P. Storms, E. S. Gibson, A. Leger, D. C. and D.
W. Dorneau. P. A. Witt and Randall Rice arrived and located in dififerent
parts of the valley. There were nineteen white men who wintered in the
valley in 1857-8 and two women, whose names cannot be ascertained. They
put in their spare time making buckskin clothing for the men. The first
child born in the valley was Harry Storms.
The first mail was by private subscription and was carried horseback
by Jesse Holland in the summer of 1858. It was continued in this way for
several years, the first mail contract by the government being let to C. H.
Eberle in June, 1870. The year 1869 saw a road completed from the valley
to Ukiah, mostly by private subscription and work. The two forks of Eel
river were bridged in the '70s. but washed away before the planks showed
any marks of wear. Contractors would not believe the tales of high water
old settlers told them and built too low. TTie first court was held in 1859,
C H. Eberle having been appointed a justice of the peace, and on this
occasion he fined two Indians $70 for stealing.
In 1858 sixty-one soldiers came into the valley, but only remained a
short time. Again in 1863 a military post was established, and seventy
soldiers were sent in. Captain Douglas commanding. Soon after a company
of cavalry came in as reinforcements. The post was maintained until the
reservation was turned over to the care of the Methodist Episcopal church,
in pursuance of Grant's policy toward the Indians.
94 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
The first sawmill was built by Andrew Gray in 1862, a water power,
and in 1864 two buhrs were put in for the manufacture of flour. In 1868
the mill was sold to the government. Brown & Cummins built a sawmill
east of the valley; Henley built one west of the valley; H. L. Zeek now
has a sawmill about ten miles northeast of the valley, 10,000 feet capacity,
and A. J. Fairbanks put in one near Dos Rios, thirteen miles west, of 8000
feet capacity.
In 1856 the farm was established at what is now the reservation by the
government and called Nome Cult station. It was used only as a stock
range, and no elifort was made toward cultivation for some time. It was
principally a breeding and fattening station for beef to supply the reserva-
tion on the coast. In 1858 it was declared a reservation, and then the trou-
bles of the settlers began. At first it was to contain 25,000 acres, but in 1868
its limits were extended northerly to the summit of the range. On March
30, 1870, by proclamation of the president, all the land embraced within its
boundaries was set apart for reservation purposes. On March 3, 1873, its
boundaries were limited and more definitely described as follows : All within
a line between townships 22 and 23 on the south ; main Eel river on the
west; north Eel river on the north; Hull and Williams' creeks and Middle
Eel river on the east, containing 102,118 acres. The vast principality was
ostensibly given over for the care of about 1000 Indians of the Pomos,
Ukiahs, Little Lakes, Redwoods, Conches, Pit Rivers, Yukas and Wy-
lackies. ]\Iost of the Pomos. Ukiahs and Redwoods returned to their
old homes and there are seldom more than 500 at the reservation. The
government has spent upon them ten times the money the land brought
which they used to call theirs, and the end is not yet in sight. Only occa-
sionally one of them attains a standing in business, education being wasted
on 95 per cent, of those who have been aftorded the opportunity. Of those
who have adopted white man's ways and shown business talent may be
mentioned Henry Henley, who is a halfbreed of Nevada parentage, and is
reputed worth $25,000. He was taught to read and write by Thomas Henley
and for some years was "major domo" of their 1000-acre ranch. Another,
Ed Smith, Lake County Indian, and Frank Perry, Redwood tribe, are espe-
cially good citizens. The latter has his house insured for $1500. Also in
this connection we would mention Wesley Hoxie, Jack Anderson, Alex
Eraser and Raymond Brown.
The reservation was managed first by civilian appointees, then by a
military officer detailed for that purpose, then it was turned over to the
Methodist Episcopal church and by them relinquished to civilian appointees
again. S. P. Storms was in charge in the '60s, a man of great energy. He
has been known to make the trip horseback from Ukiah to Round valley,
sixty miles, in a day, in midwinter, swimming every stream. Succeeding
him was Austin Wiley, Fairchild, Wilsey, Lieut. Connolly, Patrick, Liston
Sheldon, Burchard, Yates, Johnson and Wilson. The Rev. Burchard was
held in great esteem by the Indians, and his memory is cherished among
them as father and prophet. At the present time the reservation is cut down
to one hundred and sixty acres of the best land in the valley and five hun-
dred acres of range land adjoining. In 1913 the one hundred and sixty had
on it the school, dormitories, office, laundry and other buildings, about ten
in number. There are from one hundred to one hundred and twenty in the
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 95
school with only two teachers. Pupils are taken to the sixth grade. Three
young Indians fired the school house, in the basement of which was stored
a large amount of provisions. The whole was a total loss.
In 1894 apportionment of land was made to individual Indians and fami-
lies : To heads of families, ten acres (valley land); each child, ten acres;
wife, five acres. In 1909 further apportionment was made of sixty acres
mountain land; and to those who had received no land at the previous date
sevent.y acres was allotted. They are not allowed to alienate the land for
twenty-five years. Rations are issued to twenty-five old, helpless Indians ;
otherwise they are supposed to be self-supporting, except those in the
school, who are kept in boarding.
At one time, when Philo Handy was head farmer, the reservation
threshed 30,000 bushels of grain, all the product of Indian labor. In 1881
the production was 3150 bushels wheat, 1060 oats, 1850 barley, 1500 corn,
20,980 pounds hops. There were of stock ninety horses, thirteen mules,
one hundred and forty-nine hogs, thirty oxen, four hundred and fifty-two
cattle. At the same time the Indians owned one hundred and ten horses,
seven mules, one hundred and fifteen hogs, and produced 672 bushels wheat,
148 oats, 325 barley, 600 corn, 60 beans, 12,000 melons, 3000 pumpkins and
90 tons hay. They built 410 rods board fence, 320 rods rail fence and re-
paired fourteen and one-half miles of fence. The mill ground 250,000 pounds
wheat for agency and 2500 pounds for the Indians, and 411,000 pounds wheat
and 32,000 of barley for settlers, almost entirely Indian labor, even to the
engineer. The sawmill cut 177,000 feet.
The land is extremely fertile, producing everything without irrigation :
Alfalfa, three cuttings of two, one and one-half and one ton, respectively;
twelve sacks of wheat, thirty sacks of barley, fifty bushels corn, watermelons
of seventy-five pounds weight, etc.
Covelo
Covelo was so named by C. H. Eberle, after a Swiss village of that
name. The beginning of the town was the Lawson and Arthur house.
Dorman & Hornbrook erected a saloon next and Jacob Updegrafif a black-
smith shop. The first store was by Lieut. B. S. Coffman in 1860, suc-
ceeded by Riley & Bransford, and a hotel by Thomas White. A company
of regulars came into the valley late in 1856, and added zest to the society.
They remained ostensibly to protect the settlers from the Indians, but their
officers reported that the protection was needed the other way. They re-
moved at the opening of the Civil war, and were replaced by a company of
California volunteers.
After 1862 building proceeded as rapidly as the one sawmill could supply
the lumber. Up to that time logs, split shakes or whipsawed stuff supplied
the building material. In 1861 some trouble was experienced from raids
made upon stock by the outside Indians, and in an attack on one of their
camps L. D. Alontague was shot in the leg, the only white wounded, but a
dozen Indians were killed. In 1861 500 Wylackies drove off thirty-seven
horses and were overtaken at Horse Canon by ten whites and forty Indians;
one hundred and twenty of the raiding party were killed. Of the pursuing
party only two were wounded, L. D. Montague and H. J. Abbott. On the
6th of August, 1862, Wylackies again attempted to drive off stock, and were
96 - MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
routed with a loss of twenty-two killed. L. D. Montague was seriously
wounded and Shade Lamb killed. The next summer the raid was repeated
and nearly all the band of Indians killed, and Sharman and another white
man killed. The following winter George Bowers was killed by his Indian
servants, after he had killed two of them. These raids employed the settlers'
attention to such an extent that building was slow. In 1866 L. D. Mon-
tague erected a hotel and saloon. Ira Hoxie built a livery stable, and a meat
market was erected by C. H. Eberle.
In 1868 Dan Stephens, William Mantle and an Indian drove cattle to
Sonoma county; returning, Stephens was drowned and Mantle was killed
by an Indian arrow as he was swimming Eel river. These were the first
deaths among the whites in the valley. The same year Kettenpum valley,
thirty miles north, was raided by what was called the "gun" Indians from
Humboldt, and a white man and squaw killed, the ranch plundered and
burned. A week later the same band attacked the Hayfork and Douglas
toll house, but were driven oflf, after wounding one man and killing a dog.
In 1872 Riley and Bransford were merchandising in Covelo, soon chang-
ing to Fairbanks and Bransford. J. M. Ellis stocked a store there in 1873,
and Henley Bros, in 1877.
Thompson and UpdegrafT supplied a sutler's store on the reservation in
1877, and a drug store in Covelo in 1879. In 1873 the road was built from
the valley to Ukiah, mostly by private subscription, S. Hornbrook. who
was also the first postmaster, superintending the work. In 1879 bridges
were built across both Eel rivers, but only stood a few months. The con-
tractors would not believe the tales of high water given them by old settlers,
hence built too low. This mistake has been repeated on the state highway,
as also on the extension of the Northwestern above Willits. In August,
1881, fire destroyed the business part of the town, entailing a loss of $55,000;
insurance $19,000. The stores destroyed were Marks and Rosenberg, Henley
Bros., Thompson's, Bransford's, and Cunningham's hotel. Chambers and
White's saloons. Rebuilding proceeded rapidly, and Prising block was fin-
ished in December. With thousands of acres of range at this time, the reser-
vation advertised to buy 100,000 pounds of beef. T'he Methodist Episcopal
church at this date relinquished the care of the reservation. In 1882 George
E. White built a hotel and other buildings. The cook house at the Indian
school on the reservation, August 23, 1883, was burned. Twenty buildings
were erected in the town in 1883, among them a hotel by Enoch Gibson com-
pleted in February, 1884, at a cost of $12,000. United States Inspector visited
the reservation, remaining six weeks. H. B. Sheldon resigned, having been
superintendent six years. Two hundred and sixty-nine acres of hops in the
valley at this date, and the result was the bankruptcy of most of the owners.
A new road was opened from Eden valley to South Eel river in 1884,
increasing the distance some miles, and bettering the grade slightly. Super-
intendent Wilsey resigned in 1886, and C. H. Yates assumed the duties Jan-
uary, 1887. In September forty-two soldiers. Battalion I, from the Presidio,
in command of Captain R. G. Shaw and Lieutenants Davis and Mott, were
ordered into the valley to remove the settlers' stock from the reservation,
but were ordered out again in October.
Congress appropriated $100,000 to buy out settlers on the reservation,
and commissioners were appointed to appraise their improvements, etc. The
coal field on South Eel river was being worked spasmodically by the land-
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 97
owners, or by those having options on the purchase of it. The vein is trace-
able for twenty miles along the western side of the valley and makes a bar
across the river twenty feet thick. The coal is a lignite of good heating
quality. Tunnels have been run in seventy-five and one hundred and forty
feet, and some two tons taken to the city. The extension of the Northwestern
passes within six miles of the vein. In 1891, contract was let for the building
of a bridge on ]Main Eel river, on the road to Laytonville, which was opened
in 1887, for $18,349.
March 11, 1892, Captain Daugherty and seventy-two soldiers arrived in
the valley, remaining only a short time. All kinds of rumors regarding the
coal mine reported to have been bonded — that Flood and Mackey bought
out all other holdings, that contract was let for railroad to it, etc., all
proved myths. In December, 1897, Captain R. G. Shaw with forty-one sol-
diers and seventeen wagons, marched into the valley, after a strenuous time
on the road. September 5, 1898, William Russell and an Indian "Hacka"
met on the street on horseback, and both being tuned up each wanted the
whole road in which to show off his horsemanship. A duel ensued between
both men and horses. The Indian was dismounted, but no serious injury
inflicted.
A fire in July, 1899, destroyed Yourie's barn, two saloons, and the old
Henley house was torn down to prevent further spread of the flames.
J. L. Burchard retired from the agency in 1900, after nine years' service,
regretted by all, both Indians and whites.
Gas was discovered in June, 1901, but no use made of it, except talk.
The Indians gave a grand dinner, on the 4th of July, 1900, barbecuing
five beeves. In 1903, a movement was inaugurated for the establishment of
a union high school, and in 1904 bonds were voted to the amount of $6000,
and classes were organized. Game continued abundant, especially the preda-
tory kind ; bear and wildcats were common. Two bear were killed close to
town; on January 18, 1904, Dave Mackey killed three bears, three panthers,
and a coyote.
There are three families in the valley on the Rooseveltian basis, having
respectively seventeen, sixteen and fourteen children. Long may they live.
In April, 1905, a body of Japs were brought up from San Francisco, for
work in the hop fields, but were peremptorily ordered "deported,'' and they
were.
Major J. McLaughlin arrived in the valley, August 17, 1905, to appraise
the 66,000 acres to be thrown open for settlement. It was expected to be
open for filing upon by January, 1906. Dos Rios bridge declared unsafe.
Half the town of Covelo, and nearh' all the business portion was destroyed by
fire July 26, 1905. Rudee's store, $12,000 loss; insurance $4000; Rohrbough's
five "buildings, loss $8000; W. Grist, $1500; Goldberg, loss $300; Perry, $300;
Shutler, $500, etc. Total insurance $10,000. Total loss $35,000.
Grasshoppers innumerable northerly of the valley. A sale of reservation
cattle brought five and a quarter cents per pound.
Stewart & Zeek sawmill sending in lumber. A big storm the third week
in March, 1907, raised the water to an extremely high stage. Congress ap-
propriated $8000 for clearing the outlet creek. August, the Buck mountain
section survey is helping the valley. A party of eastern capitalists arrive to
examine the coal fields. Work on coal fields progressed during 1909, as the
option was to expire May 1st; 9000 acres belong to the Flood estate, and about
98 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
lOCX) acres to local settlers. May 20, 1909, road to Sacramento Valley opened
for travel. Further subdivision of the reservation by H. J. Johnson in Janu-
ary. 1910. Contract let for three miles on new road from Dos Rios to the
south end of the valley to Henley ranch, on a grade of six' per cent, and 1000
feet below the old road. April 10. 1912. six inches of snow fell in the valley.
Bond election of $1500 April. 1912. His:h school (Union) built with bonds of
$6000.
Ed Gibson, D. English, H. B. Hayden and Henry Henley (Indian) all
have artesian wells, water rising to the surface with about seven gallons flow
per minute. A creamery has been in operation for some years. President,
Ed. Gibson ; vice-president, J. S. Rohrbough : F. F. Spurlock, E. A. Gravier,
George H. Ells, secretary and treasurer.
The town now consists of three general stores, candy store, two black-
smith shops, shoe shop, barber shop, butcher shop, saddler, two hotels, tvi^o
restaurants, flour mill, two drug stores, one millinery store, high school and
grammar school, and about thirty dwellings. The town having voted dry
the second time, several saloons have now become residences. The flour
mill has a capacity of twenty-five barrels in a twelve-hour run. It is roller
style, but is to be superseded by a better one, capable of a largci' output in
another season.
Roimd Valley has been a turbulent community from early days to the
present. Land disputes, cattle stealing, and kindred feuds have been the
cause of several homicides. Some of them have been attributed to the machi-
nations of George E. White, who for many years dominated the country north
of the valley, and at one time claimed title to nearly 30,000 acres of range land.
And, though he is dead and gone to his long account, the aftermath of the
old feuds still takes toll of individuals, and of the public through expensive
criminal trials.
In an early day, as before mentioned, a flourishing lodge of Good Temp-
lars existed, but when the saloons began using its passwords, it broke up in
dis.gust. At present there are in the vallev the following societies :
" Covelo Lodge, No. 231, F. & A. M. ' Instituted June, 1873. The first
officers were: J. M. Ellis, W. M.; T. L. Barnes, S. W. ; J. Updegraff, J. W.;
J. Anthony, Treas. ; W. L. Bransford. Secy. The present officers are : George
M Biggar, W. M. ; Charles Hurt. S. ^^'. : L. B. Tuttle, J. W. ; ^^'alter Hargrave,
Secy.; E. A. Gravier, Treas.
Augusta Chapter. No. 80, O. E. S. : Dora Asbill, W. M. ; Walter Har-
grave, W. P.; Hattie Tuttle. A. M.; Ethel Hargrave, Sec; George H. Ells,
Treasurer.
W. O. A\'. Present officers : George Biggars, C. C. ; Charles Bucknell,
A L ; Robert Redwine, Secy.; S. P. ^^'est, Treas. (since died).
A lodge of I. O. O. F. was maintained for some years, but finally suc-
cumbed to inertia. There is talk of reviving it in the near future.
The educational facilities of the valley are excellent, with the high school
and surrounding grammar schools, and there is probability of soon being
another of the latter in the valley.
There are features worthy of note outside the valley proper. Among
them the most noteworthy is the Eden ^^alley principality of W. G. Henshaw.
Frank Asbill claims to have named this lovely valley also, and it is rightly
named. Bursting on the vision of the tired traveler after forty miles of up-
and-down climbing, a couple of miles of level land covered with waving
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 99
grain, or green grass and flowers, it indeed seemed paradise before the grounds
about the house were laid out by the artistic hand of Carl Purdy. A valley
about two miles long, level as a floor, with a bright stream flowing the whole
length until late in summer, bordered by grain and poppies, it is a rest to the
eye and body. ^Y. G. Henshaw bought the original ranch some years ago,
and has added to it b}' purchase, two large tracts and several small ranches,
until the estate now contains 25,000 acres. About 300 acres of level land
surround the residence, which is modern, with water and gas distributed
through the residence, and fine grounds surrounding, a carload of shrubbery
and ornamental trees having been transported by rail from San Francisco
and thirty miles by wagon. Three hundred fine dairy cows graze on the hill-
sides, and ten Hereford bulls, several elk and a bufTalo or two, provide,
with the abundance of native game, both profit and sport. Reeves and Van
Dusen operated a sawmill in the valle}' in 1881-2, but it was closed down and
moved to Low Gap.
North of Round valley is another large range, a remnant of the George
E. White principality, that of J. S. Rohrbough, containing 4300 acres, of fine
grass country. East of Eden valley is the Squires range of 4560 acres, now
owned by Oscar Cooper. West of Eden lies the Bigelow estate of 4877 acres,
and there are several others running into the thousands of acres. One may
judge from this what a vast country is included in the township. Scattered
through the hills on all these big tracts are flats and small valleys adapted
to garden and orchard culture. While in the main valley are about 25,000
acres, only about 10,000 are in cultivation. This vast country has a popula-
tion of only about one thousand souls.
In 1907 eighty-four square miles were added to the Stony Creek forest
reserve, nearly all from this township.
Eden valley was purchased in 1895 by a Catholic priest named Jerome
and a colony of several families settled upon it. The financial part proved a
failure, and Father Jerome was drowned in Eel river in 1896. and the colony
was abandoned.
In 1910 a road was completed from Covelo to Elk creek on the Sacra-
mento side of the mountain, crossing the ridge at an elevation of nearly 4000
feet. It is not used to any extent as a freighting outlet, being too steep in
grade and narrow. Also a road extends some distance towards Trinity
countv.
CHAPTER X.
Long Valley Township
This township was cut otY from Little Lake, and its southern bnundary is
near a pond on the old road about a mile from Sherwood valley, the line
separating it from Little Lake running nearly east and west ; the western
boundary is down the coast slope some distance, so that a considerable body
of redwoods falls to its share, having on its western flank Ten Mile and West-
port townships. On the north Humboldt county, some distance north of
Laytonville, about thirty-five miles ; and on the east Round ^"alley township.
It is extremely mountainous, having but one valley of any great size, after
which the township was named, and, as its name indicates, having very little
width. In extreme length it is about six miles, and nowhere over a mile
100 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
wide, and oftener only half a mile. The soil is the ever-present wash loam,
and many of the hills seem to have almost identical characteristics and are
quite fertile.
Ten Mile valley is only a farm of a few hundred acres, and between it
and Long valley is another.
The climate is colder than Ukiah, on account of its elevation, which is
about the same as Round valley, and the degrees of heat and cold about the
same, the extreme range being from °10-|- to °100+ winter and summer. It
is usually blessed with early rains in the fall, and later rains in the spring
than the southern part of the county, which is an advantage for feed and
cropping, but its excess of rain above Ukiah is a disadvantage. Snow often
falls, and sometimes lies even in the valleys several days, but not often.
The first settlers in the valley were Jackson Farley, George Woodman,
Harry Schroeder, George and Edward Dutton and William Poe in 1857.
Dr. G. W. Sargeant brought in the first family in that year. Jerry Lambert,
with wife and three children, arrived in 1858, and J. G. Wilson, wife and two
children. A. Requa and wife, Clement Beattie and Thomas Smith came late
in the fall. Early in 1859 Rufus Ward and B. S. Burns arrived. A daughter
of Jerry Lambert's, Miss Abigail, and Richard Kenney were the first to marry
in the township, in 1860. The first school was taught the same year by a
Mr. Dennison, and Rev. Cox held the first church service, in 1859. In those
days the Indians were a little troublesome to lone travelers, or a ranch un-
guarded. Mrs. Bowman was attacked in the absence of her husband, and
after killing two of her assailants guarded her children four miles to a neigh-
bor's. Jack Farley lost a large band of horses, and trailing them, overtook
them in charge of a band of Indians. He killed several Indians and recovered
the whole drove save one which the Indians had stopped to kill and eat.
Woodman made a regular business of raiding Indian villages, capturing chil-
dren and taking them to Sonoma and Napa for sale. He was overhauled in
Ukiah once, his prisoners taken away by the district court, and placed in the
hands of the district attorney, who parceled them out among his friends,
which proved no better fate than Woodman had prepared for them.
Cahto is a small valley at the edge of the redwoods west of Long valley.
It was almost a swamp of about 400 acres, considerably higher in altitude
than Long valley. It was drained by a ditch into a gorge, and in the course
of years has washed a channel two hundred feet wide. There is another set-
tlement on the creek which is the head of South fork of Eel river, farther
west than Cahto, called Branscomb, where a small spot of open land has
been enlarged by clearing up redwood land after the timber had been cut off.
It is here that the heaviest rainfall in the county is experienced, having
reached the enormous amount of 118 inches one season. There is a mill here
which supplies nearly all the lumber for Long valley, and considerable is
hauled to Round valley, though that entails a haulage of about forty miles
over three quite difficult elevations. The mill was built in 1888, and is
of 15,000 feet capacity, and has cut about 5,000,000 feet of lumber, only run-
ning part of the time. It is run by an incorporated company, A. Haun & Sons.
Some miles farther down the stream is the finest body of redwood timber in
the county. It is estimated that two hundred and eighty acres bear 20,000,-
000 feet, easily accessible, either by railroad to the bay or to the coast. There
is considerable pine timber, yellow and digger, and much has been cut into
lumber; but is poor for outside work, as it warps, swells and shrinks so much.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 101
There was a sawmill west of Long valley, which also ground some grain in
an early day, but only the oldest inhabitant remembers its existence. There
was also one about three-fourths of a mile from Cahto, which has also long
gone to decay. Near the Dos Rios bridge, in the eastern part of the town-
ship, a mill to cut lumber to use on road construction was erected by Fair-
banks and Baechtel in 1910, of 10,000 feet capacity. The Vassars have an-
other south of Laytonville, which cuts 8000 feet a day.
Laytonville is the only town in the township, and consists of two each
of hotels, stables and stores, a blacksmith shop, ice cream and barber shop,
telephone and telegraph station, and a dozen dwellings, scattered over much
ground, and the inevitable schoolhouse. The town was founded by F. B.
Layton, who built a blacksmith shop and dwelling in 1874. Viers and Rem-
ington opened a store there in November, 1885. A huge panther killed at
Cahto. Layton's house was burned on July 30, 1881, loss $2000. The Haas
ranch of 5200 acres was sold to George A. Knight for $11,000. He has since
bought two other ranches in the south end of the valley, to give him an outlet
to the public road and for cropping purposes, making about 8000 acres.
April 1, 1901, C. A. Lockhart located 150 mining claims on Red mountain,
twenty miles east of Usal and about as far northwest of Long valley. Ar-
rangements were made to put in a ten-stamp mill. The ledge is traceable
about four miles at 3000 feet elevation. Jack Farley died in 1898, aged 103
years.
November 17, 1896, mail driver drowned in Ten Mile creek. Branscomb
shot three bear in one tree in December, 1900.
Laytonville burned in August, 1904, destroying two hotels and their
stables, a store and a saloon ; loss $10,000. insurance $6000. A cloud-burst on
Rattlesnake creek in September, 1904. Thirteen inches of snow in the valley
Januar}', 1907. Laytonville again wiped out by fire, destroying Northwest-
ern store, Helm hotel and barn and tank house. Pinches' and Yates' resi-
dences, and telephone office, September 24, 1907; loss $15,000, insurance $10,-
000. The government bought the Braden ranch for the Indians in March, 1908,
for .$2500, which barely affords them a resting place.
Autos were put on the stage route from Sherwood through Laytonville
in 1910. When the road down the outlet to railroad connection at Longvale,
fifteen miles, was finished in 1912, autos were changed to that route through
to Humboldt for summer use. J. LI. Braden, a pioneer in the valley, thirty-
two years justice of the peace, died July 31, 1913. Of the old original settlers
none are left, and some of the families are not even represented by descendants
of rhe name.
A celebrated bear, old Twotoes, so-called from having lost part of his
foot in a trap, was killed by G. E. Lovejoy and E. G. Bigelow, September 30,
1907. He measured six feet in length, and his spread of forelegs was even
greater. Such a bear works havoc with stock. Sheep will return to their
sleeping place though routed out night after night by bear. J. M. Standley
on a hunt in the edge of Humboldt, killed an old bear, and three cubs of 200
pounds weight each, in one pile, in less than two minutes. They were fat
as hogs, having been depredating on sheep for several weeks.
On the Sargeant place a mile north of Laytonville there is a large mineral
spring, which runs an uninterrupted stream of water, but is so strongly
impregnated with sulphur that it cannot be used for any purpose. The valley
is unique in one way, as the waters divide near the north end and flow to
102 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
the north and south, and reach Eel river twenty miles or more apart. Fruit
is an uncertain crop in the valley, but on higher ground surrounding it pears,
apples and plums usually bear crops and berries flourish.
Cahto was once the only town in the township. It was founded by Rob-
ert White and John P. Simpson in 1856. They opened a hotel in 1861, and a
store in 1865 ; and proceeded to drain the valley. They put up a small mill
a short distance west, afterwards moving it down into the redwoods. H.
Chadbourne put in a blacksmith shop, Isaac Smith a saloon, and it became the
metropolis of the township. F. B. Layton also started a blacksmith shop, but
unfortunately for Cahto, a quarrel with the town authorities led him to
relocate in Long valley proper, hence Laytonville. Successive fires destroyed
the hotel (which was rebuilt), the stables, store, saloon and a dwell-
ing, in 1867, 79 and "91, and nothing remains but the hotel and three
small dwellings and the Odd Fellows' hall. The Independent Order
of Odd Fellows was instituted July 20, 1872. The first officers were : J. G.
Killian, N. G. : Robert White, V. G. ; J. C. Grime, Secy. ; J. C. Talkington,
Treas., who, with I\I. Vassar and William McKinney, were the only charter
members. The present officers are H. F. Britt, N. G. ; M. A. Norris, V. G. ;
Frank Purdy, Secy. ; A. A. Grothe, Treas. Forty-eight members. The meet-
ing place has been changed to Laytonville, as their-sessions often last until
late and there are no accommodations at Cahto for man or beast.
A road was opened from Laytonville to Covelo in 1885, which livened
the town considerably, but its full effect was not experienced until the bridge
at Eel river was built in 1892, when all the winter travel to and from Covelo
was diverted this way.
One of the curiosities of the township is the mud springs, some six miles
west of Cahto on a small spring branch that runs into a creek leading west to
Eel river. It is a side hill gently sloping south, of blue clay formation, and
over its surface, in the fall, are several mud cones from five to six feet high, in
which the mud seems to be boiling, occasionally running over, and thus
building up the walls. Some assert that they ebb and flow with the tides,
but no one has remained on watch long enough to give data from which to
confirm that theory. In the winter the rains wash down the cones, or the
mud is too thin to build up. so that they can only be seen at their best in the
late fall.
For a time it was believed that the extension of the railroad would go
through Cahto valley, and down South Eel river, on account of the heavy
body of redwood that would be entered about six miles west of Cahto. It
exiends from that point to Humboldt bay, and would certainly seem to have
been worth the effort in that direction. It is extremely probable that time
will bring a branch road in that direction, as it is an easy grade from Long-
vale, and only twenty miles to the timber.
Asbestos was discovered in Jackson valley (Branscomb), by J. R. Tracy
in 1902, and traces of gold and copper in numerous localities, but none, so far,
ricli enough for profitable work.
Laytonville has an excellent hotel, and always has had, notwithstanding
the numerous fires. For many years Mrs. Van Helm conducted a hotel, as
also the post office and stage office. For many years she only had an anti-
quated dwelling, but its table was alwa3's first-class. Burned out twice, she
relegated the task to some one else in 1913.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 103
There are several princely domains in this township,- not least among
them being that of George A. Knight, the San Francisco lawyer, which con-
sists of over 8000 acres, of which several hundred are susceptible of cultiva-
tion. As it is not stocked to its full capacity he has complained that deer
constitute his greatest annoyance. The Hardin ranch stretches for miles
south of and includes a portion of that valley, is excellent range, and in places
heavily wooded with immense tan oaks. A large section of it was in 1858
orrginally settled by A. F. Redeme3-er. who remained there many years, until
his removal to Ukiah, where he became very wealthy.
J. H. Clark has a large range of 4736 acres stretching from Cahto
south nearly to Sherwood, and from the road west to and into the redwoods.
He runs sheep of the Rambouillet breed, known everywhere as of the best.
The average annual clip of his sheep is seven and one-half pounds per head.
His range is fenced with posts six feet high, and barbed wire from the very
ground up, and close watch is kept to see that it is unbroken by falling limbs,
rushing torrents, or wandering hunters. Usually from 1700 to 1800 sheep
are wintered without loss, and with neither feed nor protection, except what
nature supplies. Seven hundred to nine hundred lambs are marked each
season. The grasshoppers of 1913 so denuded the range that the young grass
had no protection from frost, and the heavy winter rains had a stronger hold
for erosion than usual. The family consisted originally of the parents and
three boys and a girl, and came to their present location three miles west of
Cahto, in 1869. Two brothers, Frank and William, and the parents have
died. J. H. Clark married Annie P'owzer, daughter of a pioneer of Sanel, and
they have reared and educated a family of five, ready for high school, at
home. In that region, Mr. Clark says, this 1913-14 has been a phenomenal
season. The highest water he has a record of was on March 5, 1879. On
March 4, 1880, the temperature was 10° above zero. Previous to the present
March, the highest temperature for the month, the 14th, 1888, 86° above.
Last Tuesday, St. Patrick's day, the mercury registered 95", and remained
there for nearl}- three hours. March has heretofore been a stormy month.
The coldest in forty-two years was January 14, 1888, with the mercury down
to 6°. The coldest this winter (1913-14) has been 28°.
The finishing of the California Northwestern through to Humboldt will
cut off from this valley most of the through travel, and probably reduce the
mail service, though the building of the state highway through the valley will
insure the automobile travel. Thirty autnmoljiles passed through the town
one day last summer, 1913.
CHAPTER XI.
Cuffey's Cove Township
T'his township, the southern portion of the original Big River township,
was so named because of the early-da\- presence of Nigger Nat, who divided
the honors of first settler with Frank Farnier, i. e., "Portuguese Frank." The
township is bounded on the north by Big River township, at Salmon creek,
east by Anderson township, south by Arena, and west by the Pacific Ocean.
It is about thirteen or fourteen miles, nearly square in extent, and has almost
no open land except on the immediate ocean bank, and there not more than
a mile wide, often less. But this land is, or has been, of unparalleled richness,
104 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
being of great depth of vegetable sandy loam, washed from the timbered
ridges of solid walls of foliage to the east.
Navarro river is the largest stream, and Elk and Greenwood creeks are
respectively about ten and twelve miles long, heavily timbered, rushing moun-
tain water courses in winter, purling brooks in summer. Railroads have been
up both streams a short distance to mills long since faded away, and Green-
wood is likely again to have one extended nearly to its head in pursuit of
timber. Since the inauguration of the flying skidder, the Greenwood mill
proprietor does not hesitate to run a railroad into the bottom of any gulch,
run a heavy cable from side to side of the canyon, garnish it with heavy
blocks, drop a chain down to and around a log, with donkey engine raise it
clear of a tangle of brush and logs, run it out over the rails, and lower it to
the waiting log trucks. All this is done in less than half the time it would
require to clear the way for it to be dragged along the ground to the train.
Then, too, the track may be up from the bottom of the gulch as far as con-
venience dictates, and logs can be lifted and carried from either below or
above the train. Nine men and a boy load 70,000 feet of logs per day.
Greenwood is another mill town, though it has considerable agricultural
country immediately along the coast, and uses all, or nearly all, that is pro-
duced thereon. Considerable cleared land on the ridges back of town has
been brought into cultivation for hay and orchard, and produces the best in
the- market of apples, pears and plums, and peaches also, some miles inland.
The neighborhood was once the premium potato locality, but continued crop-
ping, without potash fertilizer has caused a deterioration of that product.
The first known white settler in the vicinity was Frank Farnier, after-
wards generally known as Portuguese Frank, and as a neighbor he had
Nigger Nat. It has been supposed that the name originated from his pres-
ence, but another legend attributes the cognomen to Charles Fletcher. He
was down from the Navarro in the harbor which as yet had no name. \\'hile
speculating what to designate the landing he saw a large bear climbing the
bank, and at once christened it Cufifey's Cove, and the name still holds.
The Switzer Bros, bought out Nigger Nat, and later sold to Alichael Dona-
hue ; James Kenney bought out Frank Farnier, but no date can be given, as
there is no record of either transaction, and the parties are all gone or dead.
Farnier died in 1904 at the reputed age of 103. The early history of the
place is in obscurity, as little information can be derived from the one or
two old settlers still living, so that most of the history, as in nearly all this
book, must be written from the personal recollection of the writer.
The Greenwood brothers, Britt, William Boggs and James, arrived about
1854, and built a large house, for that era, on the second bench back from
the ocean bluff and nearly east of the present town of Greenwood. It was
for a long time the starting point for a trip across country, via Anderson, to
the county seat and Cloverdale. Osro Clift built farther up the ridge at a
later date, and kept such travellers as presented themselves at his hospitable
dwelling. The Greenwoods sold to H. Bonee in September, 1873, for $9435, 519
acres. In 1874 Bonee sold to John Cummings, a one-armed man, one acre,
where was a saloon for some years. H. Bonee sold to William Bonee in 1887
twenty-one acres located near the same place. The latter sold to J. S. Kim-
ball, who sold to L. E. White, and then began the building up of that vast
lumber enterprise, and the decadence of the town of Cufifey's Cove. L. E.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 105
White eventually bought the Greenwood ranch, and several hundred acres
adjoining, and the site of the present town, from Michael Donahue, in 1883.
On Greenwood creek, where is now the mill dam, was once a hotel and
livery business, kept by James Greenwood, until 1871, when he sold to J.
Turner. Afterward John Reed operated the place, receiving deed therefor
from Thos. Kenney, both in 1876 and 1878. Turner also deeded the same
property to Reed in 1877.
What was once Cuffey's Cove owed its rise and prosperity to James
Kenney, who in 1865 bought land there from Albert Miller, having previously
bought of Farnier, and in 1869 bought again from Clinton Gurnee, and in
1873 of Thomas Musgrove ; and in July, 1877, of John A. Coflfey. This latter
piece was fifty acres of the "northwest corner of the Cufifey's Cove ranch."
It is safe to say that he bought the most of his land twice or three times over,
such was the indeterminate state of land titles at that early day.
Mr. Kenney recognized the feasibility of shipping the vast amount of
timber to be cut on the adjacent ridges, and consequently the value of title
to the shore, and did not hesitate to buy every shadow of a title claimed.
His one mistake was in thinking no other shipping point was available in the
neighborhood. The first shipping was done with a short chute and lighters ;
but a longer chute was soon designed, under which the vessels could be
moored to receive cargo, thus saving one handling of the timber. For some
years only split stuff was shipped, but bark wood and lumber added to the
work to be done, and it became a busy place.
The town was surveyed and mapped in March, 1876, and the first lot
sold of record was to J. D. Gow, 40x80 feet, July 1876, for $1000. Afterwards
bought by J. S. Kimball, August 5, 1876. September 19 a lot 40x80 feet
was sold to Thomas Lvnch for $500. October 16, J. K. Salter, 80x40 feet,
$300. December 20, J. K. Reyburn, 40x80, $400. Elizabeth Kitchens, De-
cember 20, 40x80, $950. Some of these lots were afterwards sold for double
the original price. Now, none so poor as to own them. Even as late as
March, 1883, Catherine Ballentine paid $500 for a lot in the town. In 1887
J. S. Kimball sold lots in the town to L. E. White, and on the same date
twenty-one acres near or on Greenwood bluff. With his business in ties,
and mills projected and built, L. E. White was dissatisfied with the shipping
facilities of the Cove, and to the end that he might handle and enlarge the
plant, both for his own needs and the benefit of the public, he offered Kenney
$40,000 for his holdings there, in 1887. Kenney asked $75,000. White at
once put in motion his surveyors and engineers, sea captains and wreckers,
and Greenwood is the result. There have been fewer marine casualties at
this landing than at any other doing a like business, on the coast. The pur-
chase of large tracts of timber, and the building of the mill dam and railroad
soon followed. The latter has stretched itself, feeling for timber, up Elk
creek, and out over the divide to Alder creek, and' even up to the last spring
at its head, taking everything in the shape of timber that would square eight
inches. In the '60s and 70s or later nothing less than eighteen inches was
considered fit to saw. The L. E. White mill is one of the most complete
on the coast, and is the only one that has not been burned. The country
traversed by this road is as bare as a fire-swept prairie. The railroad is about
twenty-five miles in length, and must tunnel through to the watershed of
the Garcia, where the company has much good timber, or be soon discon-
tinued. The company has cut off over 13,000 acres, and has about as much
106 :\[ENDOCIXO AND LAKE COUXTIES
more, but not in compact form. They have been building a railroad up
Greenwood creek for more timber. A railroad was built from Cul¥ey's Cove
landing to and up Greenwood creek, in all about three miles, to the sawmill
there. It was built by A. W. Hall for Fred Hehnke in 1875-6, but torn up
before L. E. White began operations at the Greenwood landing. It had
served its purpose when the mills which fed it were discontinued, owing to
low price of lumber.
A\^ith characteristic energy L. E. White had the big mill at Greenwood
in running order by 1890; the wharf and chute under construction, and it
has run almost uninterruptedly ever since under his management until his
death in 1896, under his son, W. H. ^^^^ite, until his death in 1898, and since
then Mrs. W. H. White, and later under her second husband, F. C. Drew.
(L. E. White and son each died on the 4th of July.) The mill has cut 110.000
feet in a day, and averaged 60,825 feet during March.
Cuffey's Cove for some years was the headquarters for J- S. Kimball's
multitudinous timber operations, until he moved to Westport. He built nu-
merous schooners fitted with auxiliarj^ power and hotels everywhere along
the coast. Several times almost on the verge of bankruptcy, his genius
became more brilliant under adversity, and he emerged with a fortune. In
May, 1886, a fire at the Cove burned eight buildings; loss $35,000, insurance
$15,000. In April, 1892, fire again destroyed a store, hotel and three saloons.
In 1891 a lot was deeded for a Catholic church. Another big fire in 1911 de-
stroyed the most of the deserted buildings, and Cuffey's Cove became a
memory only. John Conway is almost the only one of the old-timers.
Greenwood is essentially a mill town, and should milling discontinue its fate
would be much the same as that of Cuffey's Cove. It has about 400 in-
habitants, except on Sunday, when an additional hundred floats in from the
woods, and the few farms above and below. Of business houses it has six
hotels, each graced with a bar; one blacksmith shop, two confectionery stores,
two barber shops, one butcher shop, one jewelry store, one livery stable, two
general merchandise establishments, one photograph gallery, and no use for
an}- more. The mill company maintains a good hotel, and a large general
store. Under L. E. W^hite a fair business understanding with the employees
was established, and it has been maintained by his successors. No labor
troubles have interfered with the work of the company. He prosecuted the
tie business at a loss to give work to men with families in dull times. Five
hundred thousand ties have been shipped here in a year ; but now about
250,000 in the limit. The company runs three steamers from its wharf to the
city continuously, for both passengers and freight.
Beneficial societies are represented in Greenwood by :
Court Greenwood, No. 8225, A. O. F., organized June 4, 1904. Present
membership, fifty. Officers: I. W. Freeberg, P. C. R. ; Donald Buchanan,
C. R. ; Albert Popeck. S. C. R.; John P. Conway, Sec; H. Anderson, R. ; Emil
Hagland, Treas.
U. A. O. D., Elk Grove, No. 186, instituted October 28, 1906. Number
of members one hundred. Present officers: V. Bettigo, N. A.; V. Luchinetti,
V. A.; A. Falleri, Treas; O. Vivian, Sec; V. Bacci, A. P.
There are also other societies, but no rejiorts have been received from
them.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 107
South of Greenwood lies quite a stretch of fine farming land, half a mile
wide, of unknown depth of soil, as one might say, three or four farms deep,
all under a high state of cultivation. Some day it will be refertilized by the
tons of kelp obtainable all along its ocean shore. Six miles down there was
for a time a busy little place called Bridgeport, but little is done there now
save farming and a creamery, which latter was established in February, 1900,
and has been in operation since. The shipping formerly done here by chute
proved too precarious, two vessels having been wrecked, and it has been
abandoned, as have all the mills which once existed in the neighborhood.
A store was burned out there in March, 1886.
Six miles north of Greenwood is or was Navarro, once a busy mill town,
with a thriving hotel and livery business. Fire and bankruptcy have ended
it all. Nothing is left at the flat at the mouth of the river but rotting piles,
and one or two of the original dwellings, and they will soon go the wa}^ of
the others. The mill was burned in July, 1890, and rebuilt a mile up the
ri\er. run a few years and closed down, $500,000 in debt, and assigned to
A. J. Clunie. The employes took possession of the mill store, and paid
themselves the back wages due for labor. The mill was again burned in
November. 1902, and the property lies idle. It has been bonded to the
American Steel \\'ire Co., and to other parties, and is now supposed to be
the property of the Pacific Coast Redwood Co. — J. C. Cook, et al. Charles
Fletcher, a hardy sailor, was the first known settler in this vicinity, and his
is the principal house now standing, built in the early '50s. For many years
he maintained a ferry here, first with a dugout for the traveler, and a swim
for his horse. Later a flat boat increased the accommodation. J. B. Har-
grave settled on the ridge north of the river and maintained a stopping place
for travelers, and graded a trail a mile and a half to the ferry, which was
afterwards widened to accommodate wagons. Haskett Severance arrived
in 1858, and with his brothers. Ben and Frank, assumed the job of furnishing
the mill with logs. River driving was the established trade, and where suc-
cessful was extremely remunerative. But the loss of a season's logging from
the breaking of a boom often threw the logger thousands of dollars in debt.
Haskett Severance bought the Hargrave place, of eighty acres, on the ridge,
and settled down to farming, hotel, livery and teaming business. He also
built a large hall for the neighborhood dances, and was the life of the com-
munity for many years until his death in 1888. Mrs. Severance was the good
angel of every broken and maimed woodsman from miles around, and many
owed life itself to her careful nursing. She died in Boston in 1892, but was
brought home and laid by her husband and daughter in Little River cemetery.
Charles Wintzer did a large business in a store, express, mail and bank-
ing for several years, but closed out when the mill closed down, and the store
burned in 1897. Several hotels and saloons were operated between the
Severance hotel and Salmon creek, but have all been deserted since the
mill there ceased existence. The bridge across the river has been washed
out twice, once in 1897. and again in 1914. A ferry is each time established
in the interim, and in February of this jxar the boat sunk without casualty.
A move is being made to establish a new road from Salmon creek round
the point to the Navarro, avoiding the two steep long hills now used. At
Navarro Flat in years gone the A. O. U. W. and I. O. G. T. flourished, and
there was a church and public hall, which latter stood the ocean's force, high
water of the river, and the earthquake, to perish at last by fire. The Green-
108 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
wood mill and logging establishment has been singularly free from serious
accidents and fire. One old mill man remarked in a letter last year (1913)
that it was her turn next, but he has not lived to see his prophesy fulfilled.
A landslide at the mill killed one man in the '80s, and two men were killed
in one week in the mill in March, 1914.
Thomas Walsh was an early settler in the Bridgeport neighborhood,
and south of him one Moody held sway over hundreds of acres, but did not
remain to acquire any title. James Nolan was another of the early settlers.
A. W. Hall, after a busy life in Point Arena and later at Cufifey's Cove, settled
on a fine ranch just south of Elk creek, built numerous improvements, and
died there. C. J. Buchanan now owns the place, one of the best on the coast.
The earthquake of 1906 badly damaged the ranches between Elk creek and
Alder creek. Huge sections of land broke loose from the steep hillsides and
slid down upon the farms, burying the soil from two to four feet under gravel
and clay, in places sliding down a quarter of a mile.
CHAPTER XII
Little Lake Township
This township is in the center of the county, and bounded on the north
by Round valley and Long valley, east by Round valley and a little strip of
Lake county, south by Potter and Ukiah townships. It contains about
eleven government townships, i. e., 253,440 acres, with only one considerable
valley, and several smaller ones of one to four ranches each. Little Lake
valley, the largest, contains about 12,000 acres of tillable land; if it were
properly drained, of exceeding fertility. The soil and climate are very much
the same as Round valley and Long valley, though the soil more generally
approaches the river loam than either of them. The hardier fruits and veg-
etables thrive, especially along the slightly elevated land bordering the
valley, and the often occurring table lands in the surrounding hills. Fog
often envelops the valle3% both from the coast and a ground fog generated
by the swampy character of the middle and lower part of the valley. The
range of the mercury in summer is from 40 to 104 degrees, with occasional
rises to 110 degrees: in winter 13 to 60 degrees, with occasional lapses to
12 degrees.
There is not much timber in the township, for mill purposes, except the
fir and redwood along its western border, where it has followed the ocean
fogs over the ridge, and the western line of the township trenches upon the
timber west of the ridge. Through the valley are a profusion of huge white
oaks, and white, black and post ash, madrona, and pepperwood. Fir and pine
dot the hills and ravines over the eastern slopes.
Until the coming of the railroad was authoritatively announced in 1900,
the valley was so isolated by distance and bad roads that little progress could
be made. The best land in the valley was held at only $35 per acre, and only
crops enough were raised for home consumption and nearly all the flour
used was hauled in from Ukiah or below. A. E. Sherwood was the first
permanent white settler in the township, and in 1853 located in Sherwood
Valley, where he remained until his death. The Baechtel Bros., Samuel,
Harry and Martin, brought a band of cattle from Marin County in Septem-
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 109
ber, 1855, and Samuel and Harry remained there until Harry died in 1913.
Following them were Daugherty, Shondreau, Potter, J. G. and R. S. Rowli-
son, Partin, Duncan, Levi Felton, Darby, Arnett, and William Fulwider.
Nearly every one of these left the valley sooner or later, except Felton, Ful-
wider and Daugherty, who died there. J. L. Broaddus, W. C. James and
Hiram Willits next came, bringing wives with them, the first in the valley.
The first child was a boy born in the James family and the first girl was
born in the Upp family.
The first approach towards a town was at the Baechtel ranch, where a
store was opened by W. C. James in 1865, and a saloon in 1859. In 1860
a public hall was built there, about 30x40, and there a dance was given
July 4th. A rupture in business relations here, as in Cahto, led to an opposi-
tion town, and Willits was located about a mile north. Kirk Brier of Peta-
luma, opened a store where Willits is now located in 1866. J. M. Jones
opened a blacksmith shop and a saloon soon followed, and henceforth it was
a town. Hiram Willits soon purchased the store and continued it until
1883, when he sold out to Cerf & Lobree, who in turn sold to Irvine & Muir.
Just north of the town Mr. Willits built a two-story dwelling, the only one
in the valley for many years, and he and his good wife were first and fore-
most in the social life of the valley.
A thirty-three pound salmon was caught in 1860. Countless thousands
of these fish come up the streams in the fall with the first freshet; and in
the late winter and spring a like number of steelheads come up. There was
a tannery three miles south of Willits in 1864, and for several years after,
but has long since disappeared. So, too, a distillery was fitted up near the
same place, but the project was abandoned before any spirits were run. At
the same locality W. C. James operated a grist mill in 1860, but nothing
remains of it but the water ditch, now used for irrigating purposes, and the
deep cut where stood the water wheel. In 1875 F. L. Duncan built a steam
grist mill in Willits, of twenty barrels capacity, with two runs of buhrs.
It was improved by Capt. J. A. Morgan and T. L. Kelley, but the venture
did not pay and was abandoned, although it was running as late as 1890.
It was then turned over to H. B. Muir for the benefit of the creditors of
Morgan & Kelley, sold and resold, leased and re-leased, and is now the
property of John Havens. He, in company with Barney Schow, established
a tannery there, but operated it only a short time, producing $17,000 of
leather one year. In 1885 Scudamore Reynolds. Rice & Mason opened a
store in Willits and ran it for a few years.
The Blosser Bros, built a sawmill two and a half miles up Willits creek,
run by water power, in the early '60s. It was afterwards fitted with steam.
In 1877-8 it passed into the hands of H. L. Norton, and was run by him
for several years. It had a capacity of 20,000 per day. He cut nearly
3,000,000 feet of lumber. He purchased about 3,000 acres of timber, but
legal complications were too much for the enterprise. After lying idle some
years the N. W. Redwood Co. bought part of the land and built a 40,000-
foot mill in 1901, antedating the coming of the Northwestern railroad.
This mill was burned in 1902, loss $30,000, well insured. It was rebuilt on
improved lines, and has ever since been run to its full capacity. In January,
1909, the lumber in the yard at Willits invoiced 10,000,000 feet. There was
quite a fever of small mills in the township at one time, running on the scat-
110 . MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
tering pine timber. None of them lasted long, or sawed much lumber, and
piles of sawdust only remain to mark their location.
In 1861 H. T. Hatch built a Avaterpower mill at the foot of Sherwood
valley, which could run only on the winter rains impounded on a meadow
which furnished hay and grazing in the late summer. It was first fitted
with an overshot wheel, then a turbine and finally with steam. Its capacity
was 10,000 feet per day, and it cut about 5,000,000 feet before its market was
destroyed by other mills nearer the building operations of the county. It
was closed down in 1895 and opened up and run a few weeks in 1900, dis-
mantled and moved down to where the Northwestern mill now is.
Northwest of Willits \\'. T. Coffer operated a sawmill for some years in
the '90s, but it has long been discontinued. In 1901 the corporation of Irvine
& Muir was formed for mercantile purposes, and in 1903 the Irvine & Muir
Lumber Co. was incorporated. They had acquired the business stand of
the original Willits store and greatly enlarged it into three departments.
In 1902 they built a large mill in Two Rock valley, six miles west of Willits,
hauling the output with teams to the railroad. The mill has cut from fo.ur
to six million feet per annum, exhausting the timber on 1500 acres, and
they have there about 500 acres yet to cut. In 1909 they began the erection
of a large mill in the "Big Basin," on the western slope some fourteen miles
from Willits. The mill fired up for regular work June 1st, 1910, and cut
20,000,000 feet in the first nineteen months, its capacity being 50,000 per
day. The firm owns about 7900 acres and estimates its product will amount
to 300,000,000 feet. The lumber is railed to Fort Bragg and shipped from
there by water. The firm has a deck 75x600 feet, with traveling derrick to
handle the lumber at the mill. The mill is the latest in all its appointments,
including all the labor-saving appliances invented to date. Among others
is the applied method of hauling logs up an incline of 1200 feet, drop])ing
them down 600 feet on the other side of the ridge, the loaded cars hauling
up the empty ones. Three men and a boy delivered 50,000 feet per day at
the mill. They do a business of nearly half a million per year.
W. S. Melville operates a shingle mill eight miles west of Willits, which
cuts 100,000 in ten hours. It was first built in 1903, and ran for four years,
making twenty million shingles on 160 acres. There was also made on the
tract a large amount of split stuff, ties, posts, shakes and pickets. The
mill was then moved to its present location, where he has cut about fifty
million shingles, besides split stuff, on 450 acres, and has 250 acres yet to
work up. At one time Mr. Melville had a 15,000-foot sawmill on the first
tract, but cut only one million feet when the mill was moved to Island
Mountain to cut timber for the extension of the Northwestern Pacific rail-
road. The Whiteds built a mill on the Blosser tract in 1008 of 25.000-feet
capacity.
The township contains about eleven government townships, which makes
its area 253,440 acres. Of this immense area there are probably all told
30,000 acres susceptible of profitable cultivation in all the valleys and benches
distributed through its mountains. Little Lake valley at the most contains
about 12.000 acres, two-thirds of which is cultivatable land when properly
drained. But little over half that amount is now so used, the balance being
pastured or cut to wild ha}-. Potatoes, beets, turnips, cabbage, peas and all
the hardy vegetables thrive and grow to great size, but the climate in the
late spring is uncertain for corn, beans, tomatoes, etc., though sometimes
:\IEXDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 111
successful in favored localities. As pasture land it is unrivaled in the county,
the natural grasses keeping green until late summer, afifording dairies the
best of opportunity for profitable business.
The principal and really only town is Willits, which is located on the
western edge of the valley, well towards the southern limit. It is one mile
square and was incorporated in 1888, and has had the usual difficulties of
small towns to contend with. Its streets are graded, but as yet no pave-
ments have been laid. The sidewalks of its one business street are cemented
and crossings laid with stone. Private corporations furnish water and light,
and the town has laid complaint about the terms thereof before the State
Commission. The supply is really inadequate, for the last season's scant
rainfall caused a scarcity of water for municipal purposes. School facilities
are unexcelled, there being a Union High School and two fine grammar
schools, the former employing four teachers. The main business street fol-
lows the track of the original county road, with its crook from a straight
line, and is -closely built up for half its length, while the residence sections
scatter over the remaining portion of the square mile. Quite a lovely sec-
tion of the town on the west is not in sight of the main street, being back of
quite an eminence. There are but few brick buildings in the town, and the
disastrous effects of the great earthquake of 1906 did not encourage the
building- of them. However, quite a large one is now on the point of com-
pletion, 60x100, two stories, for a post office and film theatre. It has the
finest, largest and most complete hotel in the county, "The Willits," with all
the modern improvements except an elevator, and one that belongs to a past
age — a six-foot fireplace. .\ large brick hotel was entirely demolished by
the earthquake, and its site is now appropriated by the post office above
spoken of. The town has free postal delivery.
The business houses may be enumerated as follows : Seven hotels, three
lodging houses, seven real estate offices, two drug stores, four barber shops,
two livery stables, two boot and shoe stores, two photograph galleries, four
milk depots, three tailor shops, six billiard halls, three butcher shops, two
expressmen, two deliverymen, two halls, five restaurants, one undertaking
establishment, one feed stable, seven tobaccconists, two blacksmiths, one
lumber office and yard, eleven saloons, two bakeries, four plumbers, two
coffee houses, two laundries, one garage, sixteen merchandising establish-
ments, two jewelry stores, two wholesale liquor stores, one film theatre,
one fish market, one bottling plant and one newspaper. At times there have
been two papers extant in the town and symptoms of a third. Charles Mast
started a paper in the early '80s ; A. L. Dobie issued a paper called the
X-Ray, but fire extinguished it. In 1900 the Little Lake Herald was issued
by White & Pennington, and passed to the latter in 1903, and was later
merged into the News. The latter was established by S. P. Curtis and by
him sold to Broback, who moved the paper's headquarters to Ukiah and
issued it as the News and Saturday Night, its ostensible home being Willits.
P. L. Hall obtained possession of it and after a short time sold it in 1906 to
Dr. Liftchild, who sold it to Fred Loring in 1907. The Herald was merged
in the News, and it now fills all the requirements of the town and is ably
conducted by Mr. Loring.
The Central Hotel was destroyed once by fire and rebuilt of brick.
Though damaged by the earthquake, it is still on the map. There are several
Italian hotels, small, half lodging house and half saloon, that accommodate
112 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
the laboring class of that nation, who are numerous in the mills and on
the railroad.
The Willits Mercantile Company has a large department store, half
brick and half wood, well appointed and stocked. Just at present the paving
of the main street, at least, is being agitated, and on that question a recall
is being urged against a trustee of the town. One garage attends to the
wants of the smoke wagons, and all other branches of business are fully
supplied with good stocks, including the undertaker.
The census of 1910 gave the town 1153 population. The assessment of
1913 totaled S493,879, and the rate for town purposes seventy-five cents
on the $100. The present officers are ; Mayor, F. L. A. Gorlinsky ; Trustees,
C. B. Melville, E. H. Roth, A. J. James, O. O. Butcher; Marshal, E. V. Liv-
ingston ; Clerk. L. C. Cureton ; Treasurer, W. H. Baechtel.
Of secret societies the town has more than enough, and the bug ha=
bitten the foreign population as severely as the native.
Little Lake Lodge No. 277 was instituted August 8, 1878, The first offi-
cers were : W. L. Brown, N. G. ; J. S. Holman, V. G. ; A. O. Ross, Secy. ; L.
Barnett, Treas. A hall was erected in the same year, 70x30, two-story, and
a library started. It was destroyed by fire in 1898 and rebuilt larger and
better in 1899. The present officers are: C. L. James, N. G. ; H. A. Walker
V. G. ; P. L. Hall, Secy.; W. T. Saxon, Treas. Number of members, one
hundred.
Lagunita Rebekah Lodge No. 248 was instituted April 13, 1900, by the
then president of the Rebekah Assembly, Helen M. Carpenter. The present
officers are Annie Bowen, N. G. ; Maud De Camp, V. G. ; Estelle Loring,
Secy.; Sophronia Irvine. Treas. Number of members, one hundred and
thirty-eight.
Willits Lodge No. 365, F. & A. M., instituted January 3, 1905. Present
membership, eighty. Officers : George Yonde, W. M. ; James E. Daniels, S.
W. ; G. C. Lewis, J. W. ; W. T. Saxon, Treas. ; F. N. Loring, Secy.
Woodmen of the World, No. 444, instituted May 29, 1903. Present
membership, ninety-five. Officers: W. P. Heap, C. C. ; A. L. Moffit, A. L.;
W. T. Saxon, M.
Knights of Pythias No. 19. Instituted January 12, 1904. Present mem-
bership, sixty. Officers: E. S. Conner, C. C. ; R. C. J. Ritchell, V. C. ; J. J.
Keller, K. of R. and S.
Willits Grove No. 158, Druids. Instituted July 19, 1903. Present mem-
bership sixty-five. Officers : A. Figone, A. P. ; S. Pietronone, N. A. ; S. Fig-
one, V. A. ; A. Reeves, Secy.
Fraternal Brotherhood No. 494. Instituted July 26, 1906. Present mem-
bership, twenty-nine. Officers: M. C. Arthur, P.; George Smith, V. P.; M.
Argetsinger, Treas. ; Eva M. White, Secy.
Willits Aerie No. 826. Instituted November 15, 1904. Present mem-
bership, one hundred and twenty-seven. Officers: O. O. Butcher. P.; G. F.
Teal, V. P.; E. M. Whitney, Sec; F. N. Loring, Treas.
Women of Woodcraft, Golden West Circle No. 686. Instituted Jan-
uary 14, 1908. Present officers, Elsie Teale, G. N.; Ada Campbell, A.; Tillie
Mohn. B.; Margaret Eldridge, C. Beneficial members, twenty-five; social, 15.
Willits Lodge 862, Loyal Order Moose. Instituted January, 1911. Pres-
ent membership, one hundred and fifty. Officers, W. H. Clay, D.; O. O.
Butcher, V. D.; E. M. Whitney, Secy; G. E. Mitchell, Treas.
.MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 113
The Bank of Willits was incorporated April 11, 1904, with a paid-up
capital of $50,000. It has an earned surplus of $30,000, undivided profits of
$17,709, and has resources of $444,377. W. A. Foster, Pres.; J. W. Lilien-
thal, V. P.; W. H. Baechtel. Ca.shier: C. M. Walker, Asst. Cashier.
The first agricultural fair in the county was held in Willits in Septem-
ber, 1879, the society having been incorporated the December before. As a
fair it was a success, but a pecuniary loss, especially to one director who
paid $500 out of his own pocket to close up its affairs. Fairs were held in
1881-2-3-5. but the later ones were under and by state subsidy in part. All '
were successful in demonstrating the fertility of the soil and the energy of
the township's citizens. Again in 1912 a fair was held at Willits, and a
wonderful display of farm produce made. Three and a half pound potatoes,
ninety pound squash, thirty-five bushels of wheat and sixty-seven of barley
to the acre was vouched for. It was a credit to those having in charge the
prosecution of the enterprise.
A large dairy has been maintained on the n(^)rthern confines of the town
on the farm of E. F. DeCamp ; 10,862 pounds of butter was one year's pro-
duction. A half dozen such dairies could easily find good forage, and the
wild hay indigenous to the land is excellent for that purpose. The streams
of the township teem with salmon in the fall after the first high water and
with steelheads in the early spring. In 1896 a trapping establishment was
prepared at the lower end of the valley for the purpose of securing eggs
of the latter fish for stocking the streams of the, territory tributary to the
Northwestern railroad. It did not prove a favorable locality, as nearly every
winter high water completely submerged it. and it was discontinued in 1909
and relocated near Potter valley. A\'hile it was in use from 750,000 to
1.500,000 eggs were procured yearly.
There are numerous small valleys scattered through the mountains
of the township. Two Rock, Wheelbarrow, Scott Valley and others, only a
farm in size, but Sherwood Valley, ten miles north of Willits, is more con-
siderable in size, stretching along a small stream for two or three miles, but
nowhere more than a quarter of a mile in width. The first settler here was
A. E. Sherwood, in 1853. and he remained in the valley continuously until
his death in March, 1900. Samuel Watts came in 1857 and was killed by
Indians, the only white man known to have suffered at their hands. David
Son and Sylvester Hatch were the next who remained in the valley for any
length of time. L5rock and Benjamin Henderson arrived in 1858. the latter
with a wife, who did not stay long, deeming it too far from civilization,
and the Hendersons themselves soon left.
There are two dairies operated in the valley and more might be profitably
maintained. The valley is elevated much above Little Lake Valley, and is
cold in winter and has usually heavy spring and fall rains, insuring a longer
season of green feed than the country farther south. There was a fine body
of redwood along the west slope of the valley, but it has been mostly fed
into the iron maw of the Northwestern mill near Willits. A branch road
penetrates the valley, and the legs, ties, bark, wood, etc.. are railed to the
mill and the city beyond. In April, 1905, tanbark from this section was being
shipped to Japan, and 2500 cords were burned in the woods. The State high-
way misses this valley, as it follows the watercourse from Willits down to
the forks of the outlet, thence up the north branch to Long valley.
114 :\IENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Willits has a public library, managed mostly by a society of ladies,
though it has masculine representation on its board of trustees. A move is
being made at this date to secure aid of Carnegie to erect a suitable library
building, which will probably be successful through his known liberality in
this direction.
May 5, 1881, an earthquake was felt in the town. The northbound stage
was stopped by a deer getting tangled in one of the front wheels in its
frightened flight across the road. June 14, 1882, the stage was robbed a few
miles from town. Elisha Frost killed a panther measuring ten feet from tip
to tip, the largest ever known in the county.
The Daugherty tract, adjoining the town, one hundred and sixty acres,
sold for $9,125 ; much of it has since been cut up into lots. In April, 1885,
James -Frost was killed by his uncle, Isom Frost, as the result of an old feud,
and in the melee Andrew Hamburg was killed by James Frost, under a mis-
apprehension. The beginning of the feud dated back to 1865, when one
Frost and five Coates were killed near Baechtels. and Martin Frost was
killed some years later by James Frost. The only one who was punished
was Isom Frost, who served a long term in San Quentin for the killing of
James Frost.
The new Baptist Church was dedicated in September, 1885. The same
year Hiram Willits struck gas and oil in a well and laid pipes to his store,
but nothing came of it of much benefit. J. L. Broaddus died August 22,
1886, one of the first and best settlers in the valley. In February, 1887, two
earthquakes were felt in- two successive days. There was much complaint
about coyotes about this time, and Brower and Hall killed seventeen wild-
cats in the year. The stage was again held up in December, 1895, and in
April, 1896, on the grade north of ^^Mllits, it was found upset, pinning the
driver under it dead, and everything combustible burned.
In 1898 Willits was devastated by fire, burning off nearly all the east side
of the main street, including the Odd Fellows two-story hall. Loss, $30,000.
The average rainfall for the months of September and October in the valley
is one inch and two and a half inches, respectively. In September, 1900,
William Ellis, superintendent of the Eden Valley ranch, drove his team into
the "Black Pool" on the road north, and the horses were engulfed in quick-
sand. The Northwestern Redwood Company built their large mill, and No-
vember 15, 1901, the railroad reached Willits. A flagpole one hundred feet
high was erected to celebrate the occasion. December 21 the stage was again
held up, but the robber only realized $1.75. Jaspar Christy, the driver,
caused the arrest of two of his passengers for using bad language — an un-
heard-of proceeding before this date — $100 fine. June 12 fire destroyed the
business part of town, fourteen buildings, loss $30,000. Palace Hotel, a two-
story brick, completed by Charles Whited December 6. A. W. Foster bought
the Willits & Johnson farm, 259 acres, for $42 an acre. The Hotel Willits,
built thereon, opened March 23, 1902. Buckner hotel, two story brick, opened
the same month, was completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1906. E. H.
Harriman inspected the Northwestern railroad with a view to purchase May
20. August 25 first serious accident occurred on the railroad, on the exten-
sion to Sherwood. Locomotive ran away, ditched ; five were killed and four
injured, employes. Fire company organized in September. Willits Water
Company incorporated in October. April, 1903, rumors of the transfer of
railroad to Harriman interests, which continued at intervals for some years.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 115
until finally consummated in 1907. Electric light schedule promulgated:
Residence, $1 for three lights; hotels, fifty cents each up to twenty-five lights;
stores, first two $1, excess forty cents each. June, 1903, report of trustees
on new school house and furniture totaled $8,702. California Northwestern
Railroad report for the year: Gross earnings, $1,222,554.95; operating ex-
pense, $858,746.50; other expense, $312,433.76; net, $51,374.80. October, wool
shipped by Irvine & Muir, 37,000 pounds. Average rainfall for October
twenty-seven years, 6.59 inches. November 30, rain to date, 20.67 inches.
Survey from the bay to Eureka by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe fin-
ished August, '04. High School organized. Valuation of town, $893,101.
Tax rate forty cents. Eight thousand cords of tan bark shipped at $12
valuation. In the Northwestern yard, 4,000,000 feet of select lumber. Ir-
vine & Muir's yard, 2,000,000 feet. Mohn's store burned February 9, 1905;
loss $10,000, insurance $2600. Frank Brown made 30,000 shakes from one
redwood tree, which sent out numerous sprouts after he was done work on it.
Mrs. Mary Broaddus died October 24, 1906, one hundred and two years of
age, one of the first white women in the valley. May, 1907, railroad com-
pleted ten miles to Sherwood. Willits News passed into the hands of F. N.
Loring. Ordinance passed to the eflfect that only eight saloons should be
allowed in the town, whenever the superfluous ones should be eliminated
down to that number; license to be sufficient to yield $3200 revenue. The
Northwestern mortgaged to the amount of $35,000,000 June, 1907. Authorita-
tive assertion of joint ownership of the same by Southern Pacific and Atchi-
son, Topeka and Santa Fe.
Gas and petroleum struck near town. An oil well was sunk 275 feet,
with no astounding effect. Tax rate seventy-five cents. Work on extension
of railroad toward Eureka on a three-mile contract begun in November, but
shut down December 20. Little Lake Herald leased to Bourke & Carlyle,
who ran it about a year. July, 1908, right of way mostly secured for rail-
road extension. Bonds voted, $30,000, for high school building. Construc-
tion ordered on extension of railroad north between Shively and Dyerville,
seven miles, estimated to cost $3,000,000. A company formed to bore for
oil, gas or coal August 12, 1907. The Northwestern Redwood Company
purchased 500 goats. Artesian water and a strong flow of gas from a well
on the east side of the valley. Northwestern Railroad Company offered the
town a lot for a hall. The Willits Oil Development Company incorporated
with $50,000 capital February, 1908. June 7, public library trustees appointed
and a ladies' band organized. .\uto stages put on line north. Survey of
wagon road down the "Outlet" accepted. January, 1909, fire alarm system
with sixteen boxes installed, .\pril 5th, ,$30,000 sewer bond election carried
and bonds sold for $30,711. December 31 stage connection with the Fort
Bragg railroad at Irmulco, eleven miles from Willits. January, 1909. in-
ventory of lumber in Northwestern Railroad Company yard footed up 10,-
000,000 feet. February 23, train wreck on Sherwood branch, several injured.
Automobile service to connect with Fort Bragg train. Sewer contract let
at $17,312.95. Orders from Harriman to proceed with construction of rail-
road extension to Eureka from both ends; $10.00,000 appropriated for the
work, September 17. De Camp creamery installed a 150-pound churn. H. C.
Wade died November 22; claimed to have been in valley in 1853. A 40-inch
turbine installed at Northwestern mill for the generation of electricity.
116 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Midland Lyceum course inaugurated. Methodist Episcopal Church dedi-
cated.
June, 1910, Fort Bragg stage upset, one killed, three badly injured, of
whom one died later from the effects of the injuries. The railroad let con-
tract to clear timber from right of way down the Outlet, about eight miles.
It is expected to produce 16,000,000 feet of lumber. Northwestern mill
erected sheds in town for 1,000.000 feet of lumber. Storm sewer flooded.
Gold and slate rock discovered west of town.
January, 1911, mining corporation formed, $250,000 capital. April 4,
four and one-tenth inches of rain fell. New road to Potter Valley. North-
western Pacific put up a 30-000-gallon water tank in railroad yard. Heaviest
grade on survey to Eureka seven-tenths per cent, heaviest curve ten degrees.
Longrale thirteen miles; Dos Rios fourteen miles further, to Round valley
road. Gap in Fort Bragg rail connection closed December 19. Northwestern
Railroad Company built a reservoir on hill north of town of 110,000 gallons,
auxiliary for fire purposes. Thirty-one new buildings erected in town in
1912. School bonds for new school house in the Daugherty addition sold
at a premium. Half acre of potatoes yielded 8600 pounds. November 5,
heavy rain washed 50,000 feet of logs out of Irmulco dam. February, 1912.
saloons ordered by ordinance to close Sundays, and from one to five a. m.
week-days: license to be $600 per annum. In 1913 tunnel on Fort Bragg
road burned out for 300 feet. The winter of 1913 was particularly disas-
trous to the railroads in the section, owing to the extreme high water. The
Fort Bragg road was shut off for several days by slides and the burning of
the tunnel. The California Northwestern was blocked both north and south ;
in the north for several days.
In the southern part of the township is Walker valley, a veritable para-
dise in summer. It is an estate of about 15,000 acres, and the central valley
contains about 300 acres of fine land, and was originally four pre-emption
claims. In this valley the former proprietor, W. W. Van Ansdale, sowed
a large acreage of alfalfa. This he irrigated by means of standpipes and
spray nozzles, by water collected from springs by pipes leading to a central
reservoir on the hill. A fine, large, modern residence and outbuildings were
erected, and death intervened just as he had begun to live. As this mag-
nificent domain is virtually a game preserve, one may imagine the number
of deer which make it their refuge before and during the open season.
Trout abound in its waters, and it has always been the mecca of anglers
who are permitted within its bounds.
CHAPTER XIII
Westport Township
Westport township comprises all that part of Mendocino county north
of Chadbourne gulch, the north line of Ten Mile township, and east of Long
Valley township, with Humboldt county for its north line and the Pacific
ocean for its western limit, into which it reaches as far as wind and weather
will permit by means of various and numerous wharves, shipping cables,
etc. It has the same general features of surface and soil as the more south-
ern townships, but is rougher, more mountainous, heavier timbered, and less
level land within its borders. There are no large streams in it, Usal creek
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 117
being the mcst considerable, only ten or twelve miles long. Timber in its
various forms is the main, all-abounding product, though hay, grain and
potatoes sufficient for ordinarj^ home consumption are produced and some
oats shipped, all of unexcelled quality. Peas and string beans grow luxuri-
antly, and in 1911 C. G. Lewis began canning them for the public and is
competing successfully with the highly prized Clear Lake brand.
The climate is equable and not as foggy as farther down the coast, a
headland on the north. Cape Mendocino, deflecting it in a measure.
The first known white settler was Lloyd Beall, who was at the site of
the present town of \\'estport in 1864, and from the appearance of his sur-
roundings must have been there some years. His house stood near a spring
between George P'ee's present residence and the town. At the same time
Alfred Weges settled a short distance north, on the creek to which he gave
his name.
November, 1864, Beall sold a half interest in all the country lying be-
tween Chadbourne gulch and the point where the Lfnion Landing now is to
E. J. Whipple, together with thirteen horses, two hundred and ten cattle and
thirty hogs, for $1600. At that time M. C. Dougherty was getting out tim-
bers on the hill above where the school house stands to build a chute for
shipping potatoes in a four-ton boat moored below the bluf?, near by. March,
1865, Osborne & Heldt sold Beall and Whipple 640 acres for .$600, just
south of Chadbourne gulch. At that time the land was unsurveyed, and
only possessory title could pass. April 1, Beall and Whipple divided the land,
Beall took the land south of DeHaven and Whipple that north of that creek.
Brenner and H. Helmken sold land to Beall near the future chute : the de-
scription is such that one cannot identify. March, 1877, Boyd & Switzer
seem to have possession of the property, and sold eight acres and right of
way to F. Helmke, who started in to build a chute and wharf, but gave way
to J. T, Rogers in the fall, who obtained a franchise February 5, 1878, and
built or completed the chute. There was no harbor or protection from wind
or heavy ocean swell, so that loading was uncertain. To facilitate fast work
when conditions were favorable, Mr. Rogers duplicated his wharf and chute.
The one had a span of 275 feet, and its outer end rested on a large rock,
from which a cable and pulley conveyed the cargo to and from the vessel ;
150,000 feet could be shipped in a day.
Now the town began to grow apace. Fields Bros, built and stocked a
store in 1877. George W. Stevenson opened a saloon, the first building in
the town; Sampson opened another; George McPhee opened a store in
1878; J. H. Murphy a livery stable in 1879; the same year Fred Johns built
a large hotel, which is one of the few buildings still standing. J. S. Kimball
built a big hotel, which he afterwards sold to Charles Kimball and Cooper.
This became the drummers' favorite house for a time, but closed its career
by fire, as have many other buildings. Saloons and hotels were built in ad-
vance of necessity, and whenever a mill shut down business languished.
At one time there were four hotels, as many stores and seven saloons, be-
sides hotel bars. Thousands of ties, hundreds of cords of bark and millions
of feet of lumber were shipped monthly, and in 1881 up to August 19 twenty-
eight schooners had been loaded.
Weges Creek mill was built in 1881 by Pollard & Blaisdell. who failed
in 1882. and the mill went into the hands of Gill, Gordon & McPhee, who
ran it until 1889 and closed down. It was moved to De Haven. Gordon's
118 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
ran.ch, by Gill & Gordon, and afterwards went into the possession of the
Pollard Lumber Co. and has long stood idle. W. Graham built a mill at
Weges creek in 1881, and took in as partners Chester and McGowan, and
failed in 1885. Hansen Hilton fell heir to it in a business way, and it was
afterwards known as the California Lumber Co. All these mills were of
capacity of from 25,000 to 40,000 feet per day. J. S. Kimball put in a mill
half a mile north of the town of 40,000 feet capacity, which he ran about six
years to 1885. He also built and stocked a store, continuing it to 1892. His
operations in lumber, ties and bark were colossal and continued until 1892.
The Pollard Lumber Company obtained a franchise for chute at Westport
September, 1905.
McFaul & Williams built a mill on Howard creek, two miles north ot
Westport, in 1875, and ran a railroad to Union Landing, two miles farther
north. Since then it has passed into the hands of the West Coast Lumber
Co. and at this writing February, 1914, an application in bankruptcy is pend-
ing. J. S. Kimball sold his store at Westport to Hart in 1899. Three build-
ings in town were burned in 1900. Commercial hotel and Stevenson's house
burned. McFaul & Keene put in a mill at Switzer gulch in December, 1883,
At that time, or rather in 1884, there were five mills within four miles of
Westport, running spasmodically, and the greater number of them are ready
to run yet, whenever the price of lumber and capital conjoin.
Of the stores, only two remain, Dr. T. H. Smith and Lowell's. One
hotel, one saloon, one blacksmith shop, one stable, and twenty occupied
dwelling houses. Fire and decay have taken more than half the buildings,
and what remain are dilapidated. At one time there were both Masonic
and A. O. U. W. halls.
R. A. Hardy obtained a franchise for wharf and chute six miles north
of Westport, and gave his name to the place, in 1892, and the following
year contracted 60,000 ties. Bark wood and ties were the only shipments
until 1903, when the remains of the Rockport mill were brought over to
Hardy, and a fine mill of 40,000 feet capacity was erected. A good two-
story hotel was also built, as were stables, store, dwellings, etc. The whole
passed into the hands of the Pennsylvania & New York Lumber Co. in 1907
June 4, 1911, it was burned with 3.000,000 feet of lumber, nearly as much
being saved. As the timber tributary was not sufficient to warrant a new
sawmill, a shingle mill was erected in 1913, but not run until the fall of 1914.
This company now owns the coast up to near Needle Rock, thirty miles.
Rockport mill was built by W. R. Miller in 1877 of 40,000 feet capacity,
and was destroyed by fire. The wharf and chute were erected in
1876 and were the finest in the county. The track and wharf are about three-
fourths of a mile long, finishing with a steel wire suspension span 275 feet
long to an island and cable. It is supported by seven all-steel wire cables,
the first erected on this coast. The mill burned in 1889, since which time
nothing has been done here.
The first white settler here was Leonard Dodge, and he obtained fran-
chise for chute a little north of Cottoneva in 1876. In 1866 A. J. Lowell
settled on the creek three miles up and soon after Henry Devilbiss arrived
and remained some years.
Usal mill was built in 1890. A wharf 900 feet long and about three miles
of railroad were put in. It was burned July 12, 1902. The Usal timber was
the largest in the county, but of poor quality. It seemed to have belonged
MENDOCINO ANT) LAKE COUNTIES 119
to an earlier era than other timber along the coast, and it was so full of
doted places and wind cracks that it did not yield more than half the lumber
its size indicated. The wharf was difficult to maintain and repeatedly lost
sections. Nothing is now doing at the place. Kildufif & Proudfoot lost
a shake mill by fire on August 4, 1901.
Northport, six miles farther north, was once a busy place, shipping bark
and ties, but there is no activity there now.
At Little Jackass gulch R. H. Anderson did a shipping business in 1875,
but it was discontinued in a short time as the timber tributary to it was
sold — 6,000 acres to one Eastern concern at $40 per acre. Still farther up the
coast is Needle Rock. The first settlement here was made by Captain Mor-
gan and son in 1868. With D. W. McCallum, they began operations to de-
velop a shipping place, but both Morgan and McCallum died before their
object was accomplished. J. B. Stetson, Jr., acquired the property in 1890
and built about three miles of railroad and shipping facilities in 1891. A
small mill was built about three miles back, but only ran a short time and
was removed. In 1898 Needle Rock passed into the hands of the Needle
Rock Company, which incorporated the following January with $30,000
capital and the following subscribers to the stock : W. P. Thomas, Wiley
English, Ed DeCamp, J. F. Clark and H. B. Muir, $18,000 having been sub-
scribed by them. The property has been leased for some years by Stewart
& McKee. There are about 150 acres of farming land and 1600 acres of
grazing land back of the landing.
A few miles farther north is Bear Harbor. The first knowledge we can
get of the place is that in 1862 J. A. Hamilton and William Oliver drove a
band of cattle there from Point Arena. Oliver was killed by the Indians.
What became of the cattle is unknown at this time. Capt, J. A. Morgan and
son, L. A. Morgan, were there in 1868, and sold the place to Kaiser Bros.
C. C. Milton began preparations for building a chute, but was drowned at
Rockport. In 1884 W. A. McCornack bought land of the Kaisers and again
in 1888, and built a chute in 1892. In February, 1893. he sold the chute and
adjoining land to Messrs. Pollard, Dodge, Stewart and Hunter; they, with
A. B. Cooper, incorporated in July as the Bear Harbor Lumber Co., $200,000
capital, $80,000 subscribed. In the next year the company surveyed a rail-
road to and down Indian creek, nine miles. The grade was finished and rails
laid in 1898. In 1899 a tidal wave struck and demolished the wharf and ,
chute, drowning one man. H. N. Anderson built a large mill at the terminus
of the road, and before it was running was struck by a falling scantling,
receiving fatal injuries. The mill has not started up to date. September 11,
1912, an engineer, Rankin, and a large party of capitalists examined the prop-
erty, but nothing resulted therefrom.
A wagon road was built from Bear Harbor to Low Gap to connect with
Humboldt county system. About the harbor is eighty acres farming land
and 1500 acres grazing land. At Andersonia, near the mill, are several small
farms, and some good bottom land and about 3000 acres grazing land. The
first settlers there were Sam Pearcy, Bob Jones and Macoosh Mudgett in the
order named. It was at one time a voting precinct, but has of late been
discontinued as such.
All the roads on the upper coast section were built for the convenience
of hauling timber products down hill to the mills or shipping points, and
are steep and narrow. No matter how steep they were, there must be no
]20 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
uphaul with the load. And as the most of them were made by private work,
the way that took the least work was the way selected. Gradually all this is
being remedied. The steep climbs up and down the gulches are nearly all
eliminated along the coast by long, high bridges, and grades are being made
around instead of over the points to be avoided. The grade immediately
south of Westport gives the most trouble of any in the county. Every wet
season it either slides out or in and the past winter it has done the former
to quite an extent.
.\t the present time and for a year past there has been no sawmill
running between Fort Bragg and the Humboldt line, in which territory at
one time there were ten mills ; and now there are five lying idle.
Of wrecks there have been many on this section of the coast, and for a
short time there was a newspaper in Westport to chronicle them, the News
and Argus 1882-3. It was started solely to catch the land entry advertise-
ments and as soon as the bulk of the land was entered its ephemeral exis-
tence terminated. The Meriwether. H. H. Knapp, Sea Foam and Humboldt
were lost at Westport in 1885-7 ; the Venture and Silver Spring at Rockport,
and some others.
Game is at all times abundant, especially the predatory class. Two
boys, Pat and Louis Roach, killed two panthers, a bear and two cubs, in an
hour in 1882. And three bear were killed at Usal in 1908. Of highway rob-
beries this section has been remarkably clear. A notable one occurred at
Usal November, 1899, when a saloon and eight men were held up, resulting
in a loss of $3,000. Had it occurred fifteen minutes later it would have been
$600 more.
CHAPTER XIV
Early History of Lake County
Lake county. California, is frequently referred to. by persons of travel.
experience and imagination, with appropriateness in respect to its physical
characteristics, as the Switzerland of America. The Walled-in-County is
another title applied to the section. These synonyms and its legal appellation
fitly describe in a few words this isolated and naturally favored part of the
Golden State.
To briefl.v enlarge on its topographical features, the county is a region
of mountains and lakes, situated in the Coast range, midway between the
Sacramento valley and the Pacific ocean, about one hundred miles due north
of San Francisco. It is a ]:)lateau. with a mean altitude of 1500 feet above
sea level. The boundary lines in the main follow the summits of the en-
circling mountain ridges. From many points of access, there bursts on the
traveler at the moment of crossing the boundary line a comprehensive view
of Lake county. It is spread out in a panorama below him, the wide, peaceful
expanse of Clear lake occupying the center of the picture, surrounded by
rolling hills and the checkerboards of cultivated valleys. Mt. Konocti rises
solitarily 2500 feet sheer from the level of the placid lake, a majestic chieftain
or guardian of the scene, as his Indian name signifies. From Konocti, almost
in the geographical center of the region, can be seen the greater part of the
1332 square miles of the county's area. In an almost unbroken circle from
the viewpoint stretches the rim of rugged and dark pine-forested mountains.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 121
With the exception of the extreme northern part, which drains through Eel
river, into the Pacific ocean, and a section in the south draining via Putah
creek into the Sacramento river, the entire county is a single vast water-
shed, its streams flowing into Clear lake, from which the only outlet is
Cache creek, flowing through a tortuous gorge in the hills, through Yolo
county into the Sacramento ri\-er.
Early Indian Inhabitants
In this secluded region, favored with an equable climate and beneficently
provisioned by nature in plant growth, game, and the waters so teeming with
fish that at spawning running streams were choked with them, there lived
before the white invasion thousands of the aboriginal inhabitants, the Indians.
These were for the most part of the general family of the Pomos, va-
rious tribes of which, speaking slightly different dialects, inhabited different
valleys. Some of these tribes whose names have been adopted in geographi-
cal nomenclature were the Guenocks and Locollomillos, who lived between
Clear lake and Napa in sections now known as the Loconomi valley, Guenoc
rancho and Callayomi rancho, adjoining Middletown ; the Lupilomis, living
near the present site of Kelsey\'ille ; the Napobatin, meaning "many houses,"
which was the collective name of six tribes living at Clear lake, the principal
ones of which were the Hoolanapo. living just south of the present site of
Lakeport, and the Habenapo, located at the month of Kelsey creek on the
north side. These Pomos were closely related to other tribes living in the
Russian River valley and intervisited frequently with the Sanels, living at
the site now occupied by Hopland.
The aboriginals of Long and Indian valleys on the east side of Clear
lake, and on Cache and Putah creeks, to the south, belonged to a Northern
California division different from the Pomos, and were related to the tribes
of Napa valley. For instance, in the spring of 1849, when ex-Governor L.
W. Boggs of Missouri desired to secure a body of the upper country Indians
to work for a gold prospecting party at the headwaters of the Sacramento,
he sent a chief of the Suisuns, who easily interpreted for the white men.
In Long valley the chief tribe was known as the Lolsels, or Loldlas.
This name signified "wild tobacco place." The chief of the Lolsels at
the time of the first settlement of white men was Clitey, then probably eighty
years old. He became very friendly with J. F. Hanson, one of the first white
settlers in that section, who learned the Indian language, acted as an inter-
preter and was greatly liked by the Indians. Clitey. with jiart of his tribe,
was driven by civil war to the present L'pper Lake region.
Many of the names applied to the various tribes by early historians were
the local appellations given to them by the Hoolanapos, and were not often
the names that the tribes called themselves. Augustine was chief of the
Hoolanapos for many years in the time of the beginning of the white in-
vasion.' He was intelligent and bore a name for veracity and probity, and
his accounts furnished most of the information of early Indian life in the
Clear Lake region. Totaling the estimates of the many small tribes, fur-
nished by Augustine, it is probable there were between four and five thou-
sand Indians in the territory when the whites first invaded the country. The
L^nited States census of 1880 gave the Indian population as 765. Their pre.s-
ent number is 490.
122 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
The aboriginal inhabitants were not rated very high by historians Ban-
croft and Gibbs. They were of the division commonly known as "Diggers,"
and were short and thick-set, not symmetrically built, and had very dark
complexions. But they had many good qualities, which persist in their pres-
ent day descendants. These Indians were skilful hunters and fishers, and
expert with game traps. They made active and trust)' vaqueros as early as
the middle forties, under the regime of Salvador Vallejo, and Stone and
Kelsey found them very willing and efficient workers.
According to the index of the advancement of primitive races evidenced
by the existence and character of boats used, the Clear Lake Indians de-
serve a leading place. They built boats with willow poles for keel and gun-
wales, withes for ribs, and interwove tules for covering. The boats were not
perfectly watertight, but were seaworthy. In later periods they made log
dugouts, with fire as the chief implement. In basket-making, the Pomos
excelled, and at this day their handicraft is much prized. Many of their
baskets are fine specimens of close and complicated weaving and beautiful
feather work. They build houses of willow pole frames, thatched with grass
or tules, and conical or round in shape. In agriculture and other vocations
they now do as well as many white men.
The Clear Lake Indians practiced many weird and not ungraceful dances,
the most interesting being the fire-eating dance, in which the men hold
glowing coals between their lips. These dances are now given only at rare
intervals and only by the older members of the tribes, the knowledge and
skill displayed in them having apparently been lost to the younger generation.
Legend of Konocti
There are but a few Indian legends extant, most))' touching on the physi-
cal features of the country and the forces of nature, showing the limited
extent of the Pomos' imagination and religious ideas. One of these legends
is interpreted as follows :
Konocti was a proud and powerful chief, with a beautiful daughter
Lupiyomi. His rival was a young chief named Kah-bel, who loved Lupiyomi
and his passion was reciprocated. Konocti refused his consent to their
marriage and was challenged to battle by Kah-bel. On either side of the
Narrows of Clear lake the mighty chiefs took their stand, and hurled rocks
at each other across the water. The Indian narrator in support of this legend
points to the immense boulders strewn to this day over these mountain sides.
The Indian girl grieved over the deadly contest, and Little Borax lake, in-
tensely impregnated with mineral, attests to her bitter tears. Kah-bel was
killed, and his blood is now seen in the red splashes on the gashed side of
Red Hill, on the north shore of the Narrows. But old Chief Konocti also
succumbed to his wounds, and sank back to form the rugged volcanic rock
pile which bears his name. The maiden Lupiyomi was so distraught over
the death of both her lover and her father she threw herself into the lake
and her unfailing tears now bubble up in the big soda spring, Omarocharbe,
which gushes out of the waters of Clear lake at Soda bay.
Mexican Land Grants
The territory now embraced in Lake county was so remote from the
points of early discovery and the highways of the padres that it attracted but
few of the Spanish-Mexican settlers of California. But three land grants
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 123
from the Mexican government have ever been claimed, and of these but two
were approved by the United States courts. The history of the third and
rejected one, of most historic interest, is best told in the opinion of Judge
Ogden Hoffman, of the United States district court, in the case of United
States vs. Teschmaker, et al., given at Sonoma in September, 1866.
On January 4, 1853, the claimants petitioned the board of land com-
missioners for confirmation of their claim to the place known as Lup-Yomi,
containing fourteen square leagues. In support of their claim a grant was
produced, dated September 5, 1844, purporting to be signed by Manuel
Micheltoreno and conveying to Salvador and Juan Antonio Vallejo the land
known as Laguna de Lup-Yomi, to the extent of sixteen square leagues.
On the map accompanying the grant the sheet of water now known as Clear
lake and a considerable tract of land around it was rudely delineated. As
no evidence from the archives was offered, and a memorandum written on
the grant to the effect that note of it had been taken in the proper book was
found to be false, the supreme court had refused to confirm the claim and
remanded the case to the district court for further testimony. On the trial
before Judge Hofifman, one Vincente P. Gomez sought to support the grant
by an expediente purporting to contain a concession of the land in question.
This document contained a petition signed by Salvador Vallejo, and dated
May 23, 1844, soliciting for himself, and for Antonio Vallejo, Rosalia Olivera
and Marcos Juarez, a tract of land south of the lake thirty-two square leagues
in extent.
On the grounds of the difference in the claims solicited in the grant and
the expediente, the fact that the signature of the Mexican secretary had been
torn off the latter, and the lack of archive testimony, the claim was rejected.
By the time of this decision the section designated in this grant, comprising
Big, Scotts, Upper Lake and Bachelor valleys, was well settled by Ameri-
cans, who, anxious to prove rights to the land they had occupied, had em-
ployed S. K. Welch to represent them in the court. There was great relief
and satisfaction over the decision in favor of the United States, and the
settlers' lands were surveyed and entered up regularly.
There is no doubt but that Salvador Vallejo had undisputed possession
of the territory embraced in the grant for a number of years. Chief Augus-
tine in later years gave a list of the major-domos who had charge of Vallejo's
cattle. It is established that Vallejo tried to sell this grant to several Ameri-
cans before 1850, and negotiations were at one time pending between him
and Governor Boggs.
Callayomi grant for three leagues, in what is known as the Loconomi
valley (in the heart of which Middletown is now situated), was ceded to
Robert T. Ridley on June 17, 1845. by M. Micheltoreno, governor-general of
California, and was approved by the Department Assembly, September 26,
1845. The United States survey showed the grant to contain 8242 acres.
Col. A. A. Ritchie and P. S. Forbes filed a petition claiming this grant, with
the board of land commissioners, February 12, 1852, and their claim was
confirmed and a patent issued in December of that year. The owners of
this grant were never in conflict with settlers to any considerable extent.
In 1871 the land was divided into small tracts and disposed of to actual
settlers.
Guenoc grant, comprising 21,220 acres, adjoining to the north and east
the Callayomi grant, was ceded by the Mexican government to George Roch
124 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
on August 8, 1845. by Pio Pico, governor of California, and approved by the
assembly the following month. Col. Ritchie and Paul S. Forbes also claimed
this grant, and the board of land commissioners confirmed their petition,
patent being granted to them in December, 1852. There were at one time
a number of settlers on the land of this grant, and all were evicted by the
patentees.
CHAPTER XV
First White Settlers in Lake County
Knowledge of the first visit of a white man to the territory now embraced
in Lake county, or of its date, is now lost in the misty vistas of tradition.
Whoever he may have been, his pioneering was scarcely less venturesome
or romantic than the early deeds of Daniel Boone and other pathfinders.
The section was wild and isolated and thickly peopled with primitive Indians.
Grizzly bears and panthers were numerous, and resented intruders.
It is authentically related that at a very early date a party of white
hunters passed one winter in the valley near Lower lake. The narrative
states that they were making their way from the Oregon country and instead
of keeping on down the Sacramento river, had started across the moun-
tains, heading for the old Russian settlements at Bodega and Fort Ross.
The Russians had left these settlements in 1841, and it is apparent from the
course of these pioneer trappers that they were not aware of this and also
did not know of the existing settlements in Napa and Sonoma valleys. This
party built a log hut at the lower end of Clear lake, which is believed to be
the first white man's habitation in the county.
No direct evidences exist of possible visits of the hunters of the Russo-
American Fur Company, which company established its trading post at
Bodega in 1811, and that at Fort Ross a few years later. As their hunting
excursions would easily extend up the Russian river as far as the rancheria
of the Sanel Indians, who were related to the Hoolanapos of Clear lake, it
is quite probable that the Russians would hear of the big lake, visit and hunt
on it. Indeed the fairer complexion of an occasional Indian noted by early
settlers indicated a slight infusion of Russian blood in these tribes.
The first actual occupation of the country, warranting the title of a
settler, was that of Salvador Vallejo. In 1835 General Mariana Guadalupe
Vallejo was placed in command of the Mexican forces north of the Bay of
San Francisco, with headquarters at the Presidio Sonoma. He proceeded to
subject all hostile Indians in his territory to Mexican rule. An expedition
was organized in 1836 to make a foray into the Clear Lake region, then
unknown to the Spaniards except by reports of the Indians. Captain Salva-
dor Vallejo, a brother of the commandante, and Captain Ramon Corrillo
commanded the force of soldiers. But little is recorded of the operations of
the expedition, but its success was evidenced by the tractableness of the
Indians following it, especially toward the Spaniards.
It was in consideration of these services that Salvador Vallejo applied
for the Laguna de Lup-Yomi grant. His possession of the land was prob-
ably, however, based on pre-emption, sustained by his brother's military
authnrity. The date of ^'allejo's occupation of the valley is fixed at 1840.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 125
This time is based on old Chief Augustine's statement that it was about ten
years before the killing of Stone and Kelsey. Vallejo brought many cattle
into the valley, putting them in charge of a major-domo and ten vaqueros.
They built a rude log house and a corral on the land now occupied by Mrs.
M. A. Rickabaugh's ranch in Big valley, near Kelseyville. The late Judge
Woods Crawford stated that when he came into the valley in 1854 the re-
mains of this corral still existed, and in 1837 some of the stakes (it being
an upright pole stockade) were dug out of the ground in a good state of
preservation.
Augustine stated that the first major-domo was one Juarez, who re-
mained several years. The next was named Guadalupe, who married an
Indian woman, but lost her because his abuse drove her back to her tribe.
Next in succession were Moretta, an American named Hubbard, and one
Pinola. The Indians did all the work, constructing the house and corral, and
herding the cattle. The vaqueros rode bareback, with only a "hackamore"
bridle to guide their bronchos. In time the stock had multiplied until the
valley was filled with cattle, and they had become wild as deer and difficult
to herd. Vallejo finally drove out all the cattle he could round up, but
disposed of about eight hundred head to Stone and Kelsey when they came
to Lake county.
The Adventurous Career of Stone and Kelsey
The most interesting and tragic chapter in the history of the early set-
tlement of Lake county is undoubtedly the adventurous career of Stone,
whose given name is unknown, and Andy Kelsey, in the county for several
years, and their massacre at the hands of the Indians. Conflicting views
are held as to the blame of this killing, based on the evidence of white
settlers and of Chief Augustine, but the consensus of opinion is that the
deed was justified by the harsh and unjust treatment given the Indians by
these two frontiersmen. Making due allowance for the rude stage of de-
velopment of that time and of the Indians" semi-savagery, the facts stand
out that Vallejo's major-domos had lived among them for years without
trouble, and that a succession of cruelties was practiced on the meek ab-
origines by Stone and Kelsey, arousing resentment which became warfare
and resulted in their death.
In the fall of 1847, Stone, Shirland, Andy Kelsey and Hen Kelsey, the
last named two being brothers, secured from Salvador Vallejo the use of the
land which he claimed, with their purchase of his remaining stock in the
county. Stone and Andy Kelsey came to the rancheria and took possession
of the place aufl cattle. Their operations began with the construction of an
adobe house forty feet long bj^ fifteen feet wide, divided into two rooms and
a loft above, which was situated on what is now the Finer ranch, just west
of and across the creek from the present town of Kelseyville.
The work was done by Indians, practically without pay, and the ra-
tions and treatment given them were far short of what they had been used
to when working for the Spaniards. Resenting this, the Indians complained
and got only harder tasks and whippings for their dissatisfaction. Trouble
began to brew, and the Indians helped themselves to what they could find
and killed not a few cattle for food.
Stone and Kelsey realized their increasing danger and inveigled the
Indians to store their weapons in the loft of the house. In the spring of
126 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
1848 the Indians became aggressive, and numbers of them gathered at the
rancheria and besieged the two white men in their house. A friendly Indian
made his way to the Sonoma settlement, carrying word of the perilous situ-
ation. There a relief party was formed, consisting of Ben and Sam Kelsey,
William M. Boggs, Richard A. Maupin, a young lawyer from Kentucky,
Elias and John Graham. They rode horseback over the rough trail via the
present sites of Santa Rosa, Calistoga, over St. Helena mountain, through
Loconomi valley, over Cobb mountain, and down Kelsey creek. Ems Elliott
had joined the expedition at his father's ranch near the Hot Springs, now
Calistoga. The ride took about thirt_y-six hours of almost continuous
traveling.
A Night Attack Upon the Indians
They arrived at their destination after dark and halted in the creek bed at
some distance from the house, while Mr. Boggs reconnoitred. He crossed the
creek, made a detour to the left and came out on the high ground just south
of the building. The sight which met his eyes was a wild and weird scene
of savagery, enough to curdle the blood, which left in the minds of those
witnesses a vivid recollection which lingered to their last days.
The adobe house loomed up in the night, dark and silent. Surrounding
it, shrieking and yelling like fiends, danced a horde of naked savages. The
squaws hovered over the fires, adding their dismal wails to the pandemonium.
It required courage of a high order for eight men to resolve to attack those
hundreds of impassioned Indians, to risk their lives to save the besieged
whites, but not a man of them failed.
A council was held on the return of the scout, and the party determined
to make a mounted charge with noise to stampede the Indians, but to avoid
shooting if possible. They rode silently to where Mr. Boggs made his recon-
noissance. Down a short and steep hill they spurred their horses, with wild
yells, right into the thick of the howling savages. So complete was the
surprise and so fierce the charge, the Indians broke and fled in all directions.
In a few minutes not one of them was in sight.
At the sound of white men's voices and horses" hoofs. Stone and Kelsey
quickly unbarred the doors of their fortress, from which they had not ex-
pected to come out alive. It was learned the principal cause of the Indians'
hostile demonstration had been the withholding of their bows and arrows
by the white men. That the aboriginals had been weaponless no doubt
contributed to the fortunate outcome of what seemed in advance a desper-
ate encounter.
The Indians soon finding out that other Kelseys were in the party, whom
some of them knew, and no shots having been fired, they came out of hiding
and conferred with the whites. A pretense that a big force of soldiers, with
their "boom booms," was coming, had a quieting effect on the Indians. Stone
and Kelsey had been shut up in the house for several days and had eaten their
last rations.
Their hazardous experience did not teach Stone and Kelsey any lesson
of forbearance and pacification with the Indians. On the morning after the
rescue, the Kelsey brothers summoned the entire tribe and picked from them
one hundred and forty-four men to constitute an expedition against a small
band living in Scotts valley, who were believed to have been the marauders
on the cattle herds. The ten white men led the expedition, and later were
joined by Walter Anderson and a young man named Beson, who had just
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 127
come into the Lower Lake region. The party passed the present site of
Lakeport, then went west to the head of Scotts valley, and proceeded down
the valley, scouring the country for the objects of their pursuit. They
reached the junction of Scotts valley and the Blue Lakes canyon late that
night without having found the Scotts valley Indians. The next morning
some of the bucks in the expedition brought in a wounded captive. This
Indian indicated that his band was farther up the Blue Lakes canyon. The
pursuit continued till the party reached the divide, now the boundary line
between Lake and Mendocino counties.
Believing that the captured Indian had deceived them, Ben Kelsey tied
the unfortunate up to the limb of a tree and compelled every Indian to cut a
switch, march past and give him a blow on the bare back. Kelsey was
remonstrated with by others of the white men, and the prophetic remark was
made that somebody's blood would pay for that brutal scourging. After his
beating, the captive revealed the hiding place of his tribesmen, on a mountain
west of the mouth of Blue Lakes canyon, probably Cow mountain. The
Kelsey Indians made a dash up the mountain side and captured the entire
band, dragging and driving them to the valley below. That night was
afterward described by members of the party as about as harrowing an
experience as they had ever felt, when the dozen white men camped in the
wilds with hundreds of bucks of two warring tribes, both of whom had deep
grievances against the whites. The next day the entire body of Indians was
marched by way of Tule lake and Clear lake to Kelsey's ranch, a few of the
whites making a detour into Scotts valley and burning the rancheria of the
captured tribe.
The Sonoma settlers left for their homes, and Stone and the Kelseys
continued in their acts of aggression and injustice toward the Indians. That
summer a party of bucks was taken to the Kelsey ranch in Sonoma and
made to build adobe houses. Chief Augustine was one so taken. He said
that when he ran away and returned to Lake county he was imprisoned in a
sweathouse for a week. He said many Indians had been whipped by Stone
and Kelsey.
The outrage that aroused the deepest resentment in the hearts of these
simple and long-suffering redmen, and which constituted the direct inciting
cause for the massacre of that pair of cruel yet remarkably daring pioneer
whites, was the gold hunting expedition. In the spring of 1849, in the gold
excitement, a party was organized at Sonoma to go prospecting at the head-
waters of the Sacramento river. The expedition, as organized, comprised
Sam and Ben Kelsey, ex-Governor L. W. Boggs (who, however, did not go
with the party), \\'iniam M. Boggs, Salvador Vallejo, Alf Musgrove, A. J.
Cox, John Ballard and Juan Castinado. On formation of their plans, Ben
Kelsey went to Clear Lake and got fifty picked men of the Indians.
Of that band, the early authorities state that probably not more than
one or two Indians ever got back to Lake county. Hunger, disease, priva-
tion and their Indian enemies decimated their numbers. The blame is placed
mainly on Ben Kelsey. He found selling the expedition's supplies more
profitable than prospecting, and depleted their provisions. The Indians
starved, and malarial fever worked its ravages. The Indians who returned
told a heart-rending story. When months passed and their sons and brothers
did not return, "Kelsey blood shall pay the penalty," was the revengeful
thought of the remainder of the tribe.
128 MENDOCIXO AND LAKE COUNTIES
The Massacre of Stone and Kelsey
Stone and Andy Kelsey remained in Lake county during this expedi-
tion, and their conduct toward the Indians became more outrageous. It
was a sport to shoot at them to see them jump, and to lash the helpless red-
men, to amuse chance white friends who came into the region. They seized
Chief Augustine's wife and forced her to live with them. This squaw played
a leading part in the conspiracy which brought on the white men's death.
In the fall of 1849, when Stone and Kelsey were away with the vaqueros,
attending to their cattle one day, Augustine's squaw poured water into their
loaded guns. The next morning some of the Indians made a charge on the
house. Kelsey was killed outright with an arrow, shot through a window.
Stone escaped upstairs, and on the Indians rushing up after him, jumped out
of an upper window, ran to the creek and hid in a clump of willows. By this
time the entire rancheria was aroused to bloodthirstiness, and all the bucks
joined in the search for Stone. An old Indian found him and killed him with
the blow of a rock on the head. The bodies were buried in the sand of
the creek bank. A simple stone on the bench above Kelsey creek, now
occupied by the Kelseyville I. O. O. F. cemetery, marks the graves of that
adventurous if vicious pair of pioneers of Lake county.
The Indians' feeling of security from further invasion of the whites was
rudely dispelled in the spring of 1850. A detachment of soldiers under
Lieutenant Lyons (afterwards the brave general who fell at Wilson's creek,
near Springfield, Mo., in the Civil War) was sent to punish them for the
Stone and Kelsey massacre. The soldiers came over Howell mountain, via
Pope and Coyote valleys. When they arrived at the lower end of Clear lake,
they learned the Indians had taken refuge on an island in the northern end
of the lake. The soldiers sent back to San Francisco or Benicia and secured
two whale boats and two small brass cannon. These were arduously brought
up on wagons, the first vehicles ever in the county, over narrow trails and
niugh, unbroken country.
Government Punishes the Indians
A number of volunteers from among the settlers joined the military
expedition. Part of the soldiers, with the cannon, proceeded in the boats up
the lake. The others rode up the west side of the lake. This party was in
command of Lieutenant George Stoneman (afterward General Stoneman,
and noted in the War of the Rebellion). The rendezvous of the white men
was at Robinson's Point, south of the island. During the night, part of the
detachment went by land around the head of the lake with the cannon, ap-
proaching to the nearest point on the north side. In the morning a few rifle
shots were fired by the latter to attract attention. The bullets failed to
carry to the island and the Indians gathered on the shore on that side and
jeered at the whites. Meanwhile the soldiers in the boats came up on the
opposite side, and at a signal, the cannon opened fire. The cannister shot
plowed through the surprised rednien. killing and wounding many at the
outset. The panic-stricken Indians rushed to the south side of the island and
a line of soldiers rose up from the tules and received them with a deadly
fire of musketry. Beset on every side, the remaining redmen jumped into the
water and attempted to swim to the mainland. Tales of the white partici-
pants and Indian traditions differ as to the extent of this massacre, but there
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 129
is little doubt but that at least one hundred Indians were killed or drowned
in the engagement. The name of Bloody Island, still attached to this site,
attests to the sanguinary nature of the conflict.
The soldiers proceeded over the mountains to Potter and Ukiah val-
leys, engaging in other skirmishes, and returned to Benicia by way of Russian
River valley and Santa Rosa. Their wagons and boats were left at Clear
lake, and parts of them were found in various sections of the county within
comparatively recent years.
The First Permanent Settlement
Without doubt, Walter Anderson was the next white settler after Stone
and Kelsey. He, with his wife, who was unquestionably the first white
woman in the county, settled near the present site of Lower Lake in 1848. A
young man by the name of Beson lived with him for a period. Anderson
moved on to Mendocino county in 1851.
The next house after the Stone and Kelsey adobe was a log cabin built in
1853 by Robert Gaddy, Charles Ferguson and C. N. Copsey. It was located
about one and one-half miles west of the site of Lower Lake. The second
house was built the same year, near the present Quercus landing on Clear
lake, by J. Broome Smith and William Graves, the latter as a boy being
a survivor of the famous Donner party. The third house was built by Jef-
ferson Warden, in the fall of 1853, in Scotts valley, on what is now the Walter
Faught place. Joe Fournier, a Frenchman, had a cabin there. None of
these men had families. \\'illiam Scott settled in this valley in 1848 and gave
it his name, but did not remain long.
In the spring of 1854 there arrived a party consisting of Martin Ham-
mack and his wife, his son Brice Hammack and wife, Mr. and Mrs. Woods
Crawford, Mary and Martha Hammack (the three last named women being
daughters of Martin Hammack), John, William, Robert J. and Sarah, younger
children of the party's leader, all of whom crossed the plains from Missouri
to Shasta county. With them were John T. Shin, J. J. Hendricks, J. W.
Butts, J. B. Cook and his son, W. S. Cook, who accompanied the party from
Shasta county ; and several others who did not become permanent settlers.
The party camped where Kelseyville now stands, on April 8, 1854. Elijah
Reeves and family arrived three days later. The Hammack party came via
Napa City, Yountville, over Howell mountain into Pope valley, over Pope
mountain into Coyote valley, thence to Lower Lake, and over Seigler moun-
tain to Big valley. In Coyote valley, vaqueros in charge of stock owned by
Jacob P. Leese, tried to drive the party off, thinking them land jumpers.
They camped enroute at what are now the Mclntire and Dorn ranches. A few
nights after their arrival in Big valley, a big grizzly was killed within their
camp.
The men of the party commenced erection of habitations. They went
up on Seigler mountain, split out and shaved cedar boards six feet long. The
heavier timber was hewn out of oak. The house occupied by Woods Craw-
ford was the first built. It was located on what is now the Joe Wooldridge
ranch. The two Hammack homes were built about a mile east of Crawford's.
This party brought in about two hundred head of horses and cattle and
engaged in stock raising. The bears were considered more dangerous at
that time than the Indians.
130 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
What was known as the Elliott party came into this section in the fall
of 1854 and located in the Upper Lake region. This party consisted of Wil-
liam B. Elliott and wife, two unmarried sons and a daughter, aged twelve
or fourteen years, two married sons, Alburn and Commodore, with their
wives, and Benjamin Dewell and his wife, who was a daughter of Elliott.
Dewell and wife preceded the others by a month. They settled on Clover
creek, a quarter-mile above the present town of Upper Lake, the Elliotts
locating on the east side of the creek and Dewell on the west side. This
party brought four or five hundred head of stock and engaged in stock
raising.
In the spring of 1855, Lansing T. Musick and Joseph Willard, with
their families, came in and settled at the present Mendenhall place. Musick
engaged in farming, hunting, trapping and had a little stock. Willard en-
gaged in raising hogs.
A Mr. Barber settled a quarter mile above the present site of Lower Lake
in the fall of 1854 or early in 1855. J. R. Hale settled a mile further up
Seigler creek. Dr. W. R. Mathews (subsequently the first county clerk)
and the Copsey family located in what was known as the Copsey settlement,
three miles south of Lower Lake, about 1855. These were all men of families.
The first settlers in Scotts valle}' were G. C. Cord, a gunsmith, and a man
named Ogden, brothers-in-law, with their .wives, who located on the present
Chester White ranch but remained only two or three years.
George M. Hanson, a man prominent in the early history of Illinois, who
was a member of the senate of that state when Abraham Lincoln made his
first appearance as a legislator and who placed Mr. Lincoln's name before
the national convention as a candidate for vice-president in 1856, brought
three of his sons to what is now Lake county, in 1854. They prospected the
region thoroughly and first settled on Middle creek, near Upper Lake. Mr,
Hanson returned to Yuba county and the sons, who were David M., James
Francis and Daniel A. Hanson, soon moved to Long valley.
In Coyote valley the stone house on the Mexican grant existed as early
as 1852, and two men were there in charge of stock belonging to A. A.
Ritchie. In Loconomi valley the first settlers were the Bradfords, at what
later became the Mirabel mine.
The first merchandising business in the county was started in 1855
by a man named Johnson, who sold in 1856 to Dr. E. D. Boynton, from
Napa. He built a store and put in more goods, at Stony Point, later called
Tuckertown, a short distance south of the present site of Lakeport.
Richard Lawrence, Green Catran, Daniel Giles and Benjamin Moore
were the first settlers in Bachelor valley, in the middle '50s. These men
were unmarried, from which fact the valley received its name.
In the Lower Lake section. I. B. Shreve, C. N. Copsey and L. \\'.
Parkerson settled in 1851. W. W. Hall came in 1854, Terrell Grigsby located
Seigler Springs in 1854. In 1856 there came C. C. Allen, O. J., John C. and
Thomas Copsey, William R. Mathews and family, N. Herndon and family,
William Slater and family, and Jarvis Cable, W, C. Goldsmith came in
1857, and in 1858 Charles Kiphart, Calvin Reams, A. Hill, A, S, McWilliams,
E. M. Day, O. N. Cadwell and Ed Mitchell, all men with families, Robert
Gaddy, Charles Ferguson, J. R. Hale, S, A. Thompson, C. L. Wilson, L. H.
Gruwell, William Kesey and E. P. Scranton were also early settlers in this
section. A man by name of Burns located in the vallej^ named after him in
f
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 131
1857. In 1855 William E. Willis settled near the lake in Burns valley, and
he sold to Jacob Bower in 1857. George Rock came into Coyote valley as
agent for Jacob O. Leese as early as 1850 and built a log house where the
stone house of the Guenoc ranch now stands. There followed him J. Broome
Smith, Robert Watterman, Capt. R. Steele, Robert Sterling and J. M. Hamil-
ton. Benjamin Knight, Richard and Perry Drury settled in Long valley
in 1855.
Establishment of Government
The first act in the way of establishing government in the Clear Lake
region was in 1855, when this territory was embraced in Hot Springs town-
ship of Napa county. On April 14 of that year, the Napa county supervisors
appointed S. Grigsby a justice of the peace and C. N. Copsey constable. On
November 6, 1855, Clear Lake township was organized as part of Napa
county. It included Lupoyomi, Coyote, Cobb and Scotts valleys, and the
smaller valleys about Clear Lake. Two voting precincts were established,
known as Upper Lake and Lower Lake. At the general election of 1855,
R. H. Lawrence and L. Musick, both residents of the Lake section, were
elected respectively justice of the peace and constable of Hot Springs town-
ship.
Two school districts were organized in Clear Lake township April 7,
1856. Other elections resulted in the following list of officers who served
previous to the organization of Lake county in 1861 : In 1856: H. B. Hough-
ton and A. Brown, justices; Woods Crawford and P. Rickabaugh, constables;
1857: J. Bower and Woods Crawford, justices; G. Keith and Thomas Boyd,
constables; 1858: J. F. Houx and W. W. Merridith, justices; J. C. W. Ingram
and James Gray, constables; L. T. Musick, supervisor representing the town-
ship; 1859: J. F. Houx and G. A. Lyon, justices; J. T. Shin and C. Elliott,
constables; 1861: H. Winchester and W. C. Ferrell, justices; L. T. Musick
and J. Dotey, constables. January 3, 1861, William C. Ferrell and James
German were appointed justices, and C. N. Copsey appointed constable.
February 4, 1861, O. A. Munn was appointed justice.
CHAPTER XVI
Organization of the County
On May 20, 1861, an act delining the boundaries and providing for the
organization of Lake county was approved by John G. Downey, governor
of California at that time. Woods Crawford, William Manlove and Alex-
ander McLean were appointed commissioners to establish precincts, appoint
election officials and canvass the votes for the election to choose county
officers and to locate the county seat, which election was set for the first
Monday of June, 1861. The officers elected at this time were O. A. Munn,
county judge; W. H. Manlove, sheriff; W. R. Mathews, county clerk; G. W.
Marshall, district attorney; N. Smith, treasurer; E. Musick, surveyor; J. W.
Smith, coroner; Supervisors: First district, S. Hunting; second district,
J. H. Jamison; J. W. Maxwell, third district. The commissioners had desig-
nated two places as suitable locations for the county seat, Lakeport, then
known as Forbesville, and Lower Lake. The first-named place was the
132 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
choice of the electors, and was re-named Lakeport, the name being sug-
gested by Woods Crawford, at the time of organization.
Peregrination of the County Seat
While Lakeport is at the present time the county seat, its location there
has not remained undisturbed. On the night of February 15, 1867, the court
house at Lakeport was destroyed by fire, and with it were burned all the
official records of the county, rendering difficult the compilation of political
history previous to that date. This fire was undoubtedly the work of an
incendiary, stirred to the deed by the intense rivalry among towns of the
county for the court house location. Dissatisfaction with Lakeport as the
county seat manifested itself soon after the organization of the county.
County buildings had been erected at that place, and the offices located
therein.
Partisans of the other towns secured the passage of an act by the State
Legislature calling for an election on April 20, 1864, to again vote on the site.
Lakeport, Kelsey Creek, later re-named Kelseyville, and Lower Lake, which
was also called Grantville, were designated as the eligible locations. The
vote again favored Lakeport, and the people of that town were exultant, but
the outsiders still dissatisfied. In 1866 another legislative act was secured,
calling for an election in September, 1867, Lakeport and Lower Lake being
the contending points.
Between the passage of this act and the election, the court house was
burned. This removed the strong argument in favor of Lakeport of existing
buildings. In the interim before the election the supervisors rented a build-
ing of John O'Shea to temporarily domicile the county offices. Kelseyville
being out of this election, the votes of that section were keenly sought after
by the rival parties. The published statement of the result of that election
was Lakeport, 378; Lower Lake, 365; giving Lakeport a majority of thir-
teen; but when the board of canvassers met they decided Lower Lake had
won by seven votes. Lakeport citizens were loud in their recriminations
and charges of fraud against Lower Lake partisans.
Shortly after the election, the county officers moved their quarters to
Lower Lake, the order to remove being issued by the supervisors November
4, 1867. Lakeport people did not give up the fight, but began a suit to con-
test the election. A mandamus to require the officers to return to Lakeport
was issued JMarch 28, 1868, but this was not obeyed by the officials. In
October, 1869, the matter was tried before a jury in the court of Judge J. B.
Southard at Napa City. The jury found in favor of Lakeport. The judge
referred the case to the legislature, and again an act providing for an election,
the fourth concerning the location, was passed, set for May, 1870.
The partisans recognized this as a determining contest, and rivalry for
votes was again intense. A few years of experience with Lower Lake as the
location had brought about a considerable change in Kelseyville sentiment.
The election resulted in 479 votes for Lakeport, and 404 for Lower Lake, a
majority of 75. The northern end of the county voted unanimously for
Lakeport, Kelseyville voted four to one in that town's favor ; even a few
votes for Lakeport were recorded in the Lower Lake section.
Following the destruction of the county records in 1867, the supervisors
re-established boundaries of townships and supervisorial districts. These
comprised Lower Lake, Big Valley, Upper Lake and Knoxville townships.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 133
In 1874 a local option election, on the question of licensing the liquor traffic,
was held, resulting in total vote in the county of 460 in favor of licensing and
211 against the traffic. A. E. Noel of Lower Lake was elected delegate from
Lake county to the convention which formulated the new constitution of
California in 1878.
Lower Lake Township
The first house in the town of Lower Lake was built by E. Mitchell in
1858. Herrick & Getz had a store there in 1860. The first hotel was opened
by Dr. Bynum in 1865, the first saloon by C. N. Adams in 1861, the first
blacksmith shop by L. B. Thompson in 1860. From the time of location
of the county seat at that place in 1867, the growth in population was
steady and rapid. Lower Lake had in her early years the novel distinc-
tion of a young lady druggist, Miss Delia Walls, one of a very few of her
sex in that profession, and in full charge of a drug store at the age of sixteen
years. In its early history Lower Lake had transportation connections with
the outside world by two stage lines, one running from Calistoga through
Lower Lake to East Lake, the headquarters of the Sulphur Banks mine, and
the other from Woodland to Lower Lake.
This town had visions of great development about 1867. The county
seat question had been decided in its favor. About that time the Clear
Lake Water Company began operations. This company proposed to erect
a woolen mill, flour and lumber mills, on Cache creek, which should turn
out in manufactured form all the wool, grain and timber produced in the
county. The projects on paper looked roseate, and the bright prospects
were generally accepted by the people, but the decrees of destiny seemed
cruel. The company did construct a dam across the creek, erect quite an
extensive building and install machinery for flour, saw and planing mill.
At the time all products, beyond the needs of the limited county market,
had to be hauled by team one hundred miles to tidewater. What might have
been the outcome of the company's promises will never be known, as the
hand of fate in the shape of an indignant people ended the company's
activities. In a night, their dam was destroyed and the mill burned to the
ground. The loss of the county seat followed, and seemed a death-blow
to the bright hopes of Lower Lake's people. They quickly recovered courage,
and steady and substantial growth came in the following years.
Destruction of Cache Creek Dam
Probably the most stirring event in the county's history, its details
being still vividly remembered by living pioneers and frequently revived
by recent water company operations, was the destruction of the Clear Lake
Water Company's dam across Cache creek. This intense expression of the
people's cumulating resentment occurred in November, 1868. In the minds
of early residents, not a few now living who participated in the memorable
affair, the demolition of the company's property was a justifiable retribution
for wrongs inflicted on the people, a taking of justice in their own hands
when their reasonable appeals had been ignored, when the company per-
sisted in maintaining the dam and no compensation for their injuries was
allowed the people by the law and its officers. The deed of the citizenry
is openly defended as a necessary relief from intolerable oppression — that
while in violation of the written law, it had the sanction of the higher law
134 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
of the people's welfare. The burning of the mill being asserted to be acci-
dental, and the destruction of the dam justifiable, the only wrongdoing
acknowledged by members of the party was the appropriation of a few
sacks of grain by individuals to feed their horses. This slight turpitude is
held to be the basis for the county authorities' final surrender of ground
in the compromise, which fixed the judgment of $20,000 upon the county.
This judgment still partially hangs over the county, and upon it and another
early obligation for purchase of a toll road of double that amount, over
$90,000 interest, and $34,500 principal, has been paid by the citizens.
The story of the early dam's destruction is picturesque and stirring. A
dam, of slight height, had existed for some years at the Fowler mill on
Cache creek, two miles below its outlet from Clear lake and near the town
of Lower Lake. Orrin Simmons, acting as agent for the Clear Lake Water
Compan}', purchased the mill and land in the fall of 1865. At the session
of the Legislature that winter, lobbyists for the water company secured
passage of an act authorizing the company to "build and keep in repair a
lock," etc. L. M. Curtis, W. G. Hunt, E. R. Lowe, J. D. Longhenour, S. N.
Mewing, J. A. Hutton, G. W. Woodward, H. C. Derby, Charles Traver, N.
Wyckoff, R. Day, N. Coombs, J. D. Stephens, William Gordon and F. S.
Freeman were the men to whom the authority was given. Provisions of the
act granted the rights for thirty years, gave permission to remove obstruc-
tions in the stream, and required that the lake level should not be lowered
during the months of July and August more than one foot below where it
usually stood in said months, nor be raised at any time above the usual
natural height. The company was given control of all water in the creek,
excepting the use to other riparian owners of water for stock and domestic
uses.
The company commenced construction of the new dam in August, 1866,
and it was finished in December, 1867. An unusually heavy rainfall occurred
in both of these winters. The dam was of stone, with wooden cribs built into
it for foundations of the mill. As to its height, there are conflicting reports,
some witnesses stating the flood-gates were arranged to hold the lake
level at thirteen feet above high water mark. W'hatever its height or the
cause, the lake level rose in the winter of 1867-68 to several feet above the
highest water ever before known. It reached the level of Main street in
Lakeport and flooded the lowlands about the lake, where the damage was
greatest, orchards being destroyed, land being unusable for planting crops,
and houses vacated. The lake level receded but two feet in the following
summer, instead of the average fall of nine to ten feet. Sickness prevailed
to an alarming extent, both of a malarial and membranous character, seven
children dying in one family from diphtheria. The high water, standing
stagnant on many ranches, was generally believed to be the cause of the
epidemic.
The company had been sued, and the dam declared a nuisance several
times by the grand jury, but no heed was paid. The legal quandary was
that the people could sue only in their own court, and a jury could not be
obtained that the company could not challenge and dismiss by reason of
prejudice or interest. The company would not ask for a change of venue.
A suit for $15,000 damages was brought in Mendocino county by a Mr.
Grigsby, one of the affected land owners, in which he was supported by
other Lake county citizens. This suit was taken to the State Supreme Court.
I
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 135
On the third indictment by the grand jury of the dam as a nuisance, it was
tried before Judge J. B. Southard at Lower Lake. Upon that occasion the
judge said: "I see no redress for the injured parties around the margin of
the lake, in civil law, but there is such a thing as a higher law."
The people grasped the import of the judge's words, which were spoken
on W^ednesday, November 11. 1868. Plans were secretly made for a move
on the dam on the following Saturday, the 14th. Couriers were dispatched
over all the northern end of the county. On the day set determined men
began to assemble at Lakeport. By noon probably 250 were gathered. The
expedition moved, on horseback and in wagons, toward Lower Lake, pro-
vided with arms, blankets and provisions sufficient for a week's campaign.
The rendezvous was at the Lost Spring ranch, since known as the J. H.
Jamison place, about three miles west of Lower Lake. About three hundred
and twenty-five men assembled there that night. The body elected Jacob
Bower and J. B. Robinson to take charge of removal of the dam, and J. W.
Mackall as military commander. From that time forward everything was
done with order and discipline.
Vigilance Committee Seizes Officers and Tears Out Dam
On the morning of Sunday, the 15th, Commander Mackall and ten
picked men started early for Lower Lake, arriving there at 8:00 o'clock
that morning. This advance guard took into custody the county officers,
then located at that town, who were W. H. Manlove, sheriiT; F. Herrenden,
deputy sheriff; J. B. Holloway, county judge, and Sarshel Bynum, county
clerk, and also L. P. Nichols, superintendent of the water company. The
main body of citizens arrived soon afterward, and great surprise and interest
were aroused in the town's population. The officers keenly resented their
arrest, the sheriff, especially, in the language of one witness, "bucking
furiously." This official demanded the right to "read the riot act" to the
"mob." as he termed them. He was given the privilege and the crowd
listened with amusement and in perfect order. Then the sheriff was ordered
to take his seat and not leave it. and he obeyed implicitly. Another humor-
ous incident relieved the tense situation. The county clerk had been placed
under guard of Jacob Welty, a gray-bearded mountaineer of over eighty
years, and diminutive in stature. Mr. Bynum protested that he would not
submit to the outrage and proceeded to move ofi. Old Mountaineer backed
ofif until he could get the barrel of his old-fashioned muzzle-loading flint-
lock on a horizontal, and leveled it on the clerk, shouting in stentorian tones :
"Stand, Sarshel, I say; STAND." This exclamation became a by-word with
which jMr. Bynum was plagued by enemies and mischievous friends to the
end of his days.
At 8:30 o'clock Mackall and his vanguard preceded the main body to
the mill, and there took charge of four men employed on the premises. When
the crowd arrived, a double patrol was formed, the inner circle about the
mill being three hundred j^ards in diameter, and the outer guard fifty yards
beyond. There were twenty men in each circle, and guard was relieved, in
military style, every two hours.
When all the preliminaries were arranged, Rev. B. Ogle, a Baptist
minister, asked a blessing on the undertaking. Then this man of God, and
upon the Sabbath day, took off his coat and worked with as willing arms
as anj' one of the party. The men first removed to a safe distance all the
136 AIENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
grain and other contents of the mill, including the machinery, which work
was not completed until nightfall. While the men were at supper, fire was
noticed in the building, and every efifort was made to extinguish it but
without success. A small dwelling house and the adjoining bridge were
saved. This incendiary deed was done without the knowledge or consent
of the leaders of the expedition, and the destruction of the mill was greatly
regretted.
On Monday morning the work of tearing out the dam by use of block and
tackle was begun. Removing the heavy stones took all of that day and part
of Tuesday morning. The water went out with a tremendous rush toward
the completion of the work, turning big logs end over end. The force
of the wave of impounded water was felt at Cacheville, in Yolo county
about thirty miles down the creek. The demolition completed, the men dis-
persed to their homes. No liquor had been allowed within the lines, and
general orderliness had been observed.
Water Company Sues the County
On January 29, 1869, the Clear Lake Water Company commenced suit
in the Twelfth District Court against Jacob Bower and 183 other citizens
of Lake county, the list including the names of all the participants that
could be ascertained. The company claimed $250,000 damages. Its counsel
were McM. Shafter. Seawell and Hubbard. A change of venue was secured
and the trial was held at Fairfield. The jury found that the dam was a
nuisance and sustained the people in abating it. The company appealed to
the Supreme Court from this decision. A\'hile this suit was in progress, the
water company began another action against the Lake county supervisors
for $50,000 actual damages and $100,000 accumulated damages. This suit
was tried in Yolo county in ^lay, 1871, the jury disagreeing, being eleven
for the county and one for the company. A second trial was held in Yolo
county in September of that year, and while this was in progress, a com-
promise was agreed upon. Its terms were that each party was to pay its
own costs, and the county was to allow judgment against it for $20,000,
which the company was to accept in bonds. The unpaid remainder of these
bonds, which were re-funded several times, is now held by the state of
California.
Lower Lake had the finest school house in the county, a two-story
brick building, erected in 1877. The Lower Lake brewery was started in
1870 by Keitz & Co., later sold to C. Hammer and in 1875 to C. F. Linck,
and which c perated under various proprietors until 1903. A planing mill
was started by S. H. Thompson in 1877. A newspaper called the Observer
was published at this town in 1866, but no record exists of the identity of
its first editor or proprietor. D. M. Hanson founded the Clear Lake Sentinel
in 1866, advocating Lower Lake for the county seat. After that object was
accomplished, Mr. Hanson moved his paper to Yuba City.
The Lower Lake Bulletin was started August 28, 1869, by L. P. Nichols,
later conducted by J. B. Baccus, Jr., in 1879 by John B. Fitch, and acquired
by A. E. Noel in October. 1885, by whom it was run until his death in
March, 1893, when his widow assmned charge and has since edited and pub-
lished the paper.
The Clear Lake Press was also established in Lower Lake by Mr.
Baccus, in 1885. For a period it was edited by ^^'. H. Adamson, and moved
to Lakeport by John L. Allison in 1891.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 137
CHAPTER XVII
Lakeport and Other Towns
The first store at Lakeport was built in 1856 by Dr. E. D. Boynton
(though a man named Johnson sold goods there in 1855) at a point, later
known as Tuckertown, on the present southern boundary of the town. He
disposed of the merchandising business to Cyrus Smith, and the latter sold
to George Brewington and Burr Caldwell. These proprietors built a new
store on the knoll in the south limits of Lakeport, now the Piatt Addition,
and moved their stock to it. George Nutter and then Aaron Levy acquired
this business in 1858 and the latter only retired from continuous service in
merchandising at Lakeport in December, 1913.
William Forbes had pre-empted a claim of one hundred and sixty acres
on the present site of Lakeport in 1859. He erected a small wooden build-
ing on a site which is now south of First and west of Forbes streets. When,
on the organization of the county, in 1861, the commissioners were investi-
gating possible sites for the county seat, Forbes offered a free grant of forty
acres to the county for the location of its capital upon his property. They
accepted his offer, insofar as they had authority, and when the county seat
election resulted in Lakeport's selection, Forbes deeded the land. The title
to a strip of this grant, overflowed land on the present town's lakefront. is
still held to rest in the county judge, now represented by the superior judge.
The town sprang into existence upon settlement of the county seat
location. James Parrish started the first blacksmith shop, on the east side of
Main street, south of First. The Clear Lake Journal was founded in Sep-
tember, 1865, published weekly by E. B. Wilson & Co., but had a brief exist-
ence. In October, 1866, J. H. F. Farley established the weekly Clear Lake
Courier. The business men of that period as shown by the advertising
columns of its early issues, were J. S. Downes, M. D. ; S. K. Welch, attorney;
Woods Crawford, attorney; S. Chapman, shoemaker; J. R. Millett, dentist;
J. Southard, barber; J. T. Mathes, saloon; H. Cohen, H. Charmak and A.
Levy, general merchandise ; Col. Lansing T. Musick, hotel. About nine
business buildings, the courthouse, which occupied the present site, and a
few dwellings constituted the extent of the village in 1866. Development
was slow while the county seat was at Lower Lake, but on its restoration in
1870. Lakeport commenced a rapid and steady growth. It had 400 popula-
tion in 1870.
Clear Lake College was instituted at Lakeport in September, 1876, by
Prof. John A. Kelly. Seven youths were admitted to the academic department
at that time. It won public favor to the extent that fifty-four students were
matriculated during its first year. The college was incorporated under the
title of Clear Lake Collegiate Association, on January 12, 1881. with the fol-
lowing officers: John A. Kelly, president; Samuel Clendcnin,' vice president;
S. K. Welch, secretary; Thomas Haycock, treasurer; H. W. Rice, auditor.
At the first commencement exercises, June 9, 1881, the degree of B. A was
conferred on William J. ]\Iewhinney, of AL A. upon James L. Woods, and
LL.D. upon S. K. Welch and S. C. Hastings. This college succumbed to
adversity in a few years. A private school conducted by Miss Mary Stark
commenced tuition in January, 1879, and continued for a short time.
138 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Prof. John Overholser established the Lakeport Academy in 1884. The
school was first conducted in a building at the corner of Fourth and Forbes
streets, Lakeport. It had four pupils on the opening day, but sixteen regis-
tered before the year was out. Professor Overholser taught alone for two
years. Subsequent assistants were Miss Rooney, Miss Eloise Boone, Miss
Sara Haycock, the latter being now Mrs. J. G. Crump of Lakeport.
In 1890 the Academy was incorporated, the first board of directors being
W. D. Rantz of Scotts Valley, A. M. Reynolds, Marshall Arnold, Lilburn
H-. Boggs. Milton Wambold, W. A. Maxwell and Frank D. Tunis of Lake-
port. Two thousands dollars was subscribed in stock, with which a building
was erected on land donated by Mrs Zilphia A. Carly in the north end of
Lakeport.
The Clear Lake Union High School district was formed on May 4,
1901, by nineteen school districts in the northern and central parts of the
county. The proposition carried by the small majority of five votes, the
result being 192 votes for and 187 against. Lakeport voted strongly for it and
Upper Lake almost solidly against it.
The late Charles W. Haycock was one of the strongest advocates of the
high school. The first trustees, one elected from each district, were W. E.
York, J. R. Garner, C. M. Hammond, chosen chairman; John M. Wiles,
Walter Phillips, John Morrison, C. W^hite, C. M. Crawford, W. N. Thompson,
Ira Carpenter, Thomas Patten, Perry Emerson, Alonzo Lea, Palmer, Sim-
mons, Mrs. Clark, J. Callahan, W. W. W^oodward, Frank Greene. The
trustees were unable to agree unanimously on a site, and at an election on
July 31, 1901, Lakeport was selected, receiving 300 votes to Upper Lake's
244. C. M. Hammond, J. W. Morrison and W. E. York constituted the first
executive committee.
The district rented the Academy building, and Professor Overholser
became the science instructor. Prof. F. G. Sanderson was the first principal,
and Miss Ora Boring was also a teacher. The high school started with forty
students, October 1, 1901, and attendance rapidly increased. Subsequent
principals have been Ovid Ritter, Dr. A. A. Mackenzie, Horace N. Caldwell
and J. LeRoy Dixon. A proposition to bond the district for $30,000 to
build a new school failed of the necessary two-thirds vote at an election
on May 23, 1913, the proposed bond issue receiving 472 votes to 411 against.
The Bank of Lake was organized March 10, 1874, with capital stock ot
$100,000. The first officers were S. Bynum, president; A. Levy, treasurer;
F. D. Tunis, secretary; George Bucknell, S. K. Welch, A. F. Tate, S. Broad-
well, S. Bynum, J. T. Boone, J. R. Cook, A. Levy, C. Hartson, Dr. J. S.
Downes, and A. G. Boggs, directors. Its present directors are W^illiam A.
Lange of San Francisco, W. E. Greene of Santa Rosa, A. Levy, M. S. Sayre,
president; L. J. Shuman, Joseph Levy, W. C. Moore of Lakeport.
The Farmers' Savings Bank was incorporated December 14, 1874, also
with capital stock of $100,000. Its incorporating directors were R. S. John-
son, also president ; William J. Biggerstaff, J. H. Renfro, D. V. Thompson,
Lindsay Carson, D. J. Taylor and George Tucker. J. W. Mackall was the
first cashier. Lindsay Carson, a brother of the famous frontier scout, Kit
Carson, became president in 1875. L. H. Boggs became assistant cashier
in 1876, and his father, Henry C. Boggs, was elected director and presi-
dent in 1878. G. W. Finer and J. F. Burger became interested in this bank
in the same year. The present directors of this bank are J. W. Boggs. pres-
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 139
ident; J. Banks, F. H. Boggs, H. C. Boggs, W. D. Rantz, of Lakeport; S. T.
Packwood of Upper Lake ; Andrew Smith of Big Valley.
The Lakeport flour mill was built by L. A. Young and Hill in Novem-
ber, 1871. The builders sold it to H. C. Boggs in 1873, and in 1875 M. Starr
became proprietor, operating it until 1895, when J. Banks and J. M. Church
bought it. J. Banks has conducted it alone since 1907.
A brewery was established by R. O. Smith in 1863, located at first in
Scotts Valley, but in the fall of 1864 moved to a site one-half mile west of
Lakeport. This institution ceased business about 1900.
Tradition tells of the establishment of three newspapers in the earliest
years of Lakeport's existence, but no definite record is known of them.
These were the Times, with John Pendegast at one time editor; the Journal,
of which David Pitman lamo was one of the editors and proprietors in
1865 ; and the Democrat. All were of brief duration. The Clear Lake Courier
was started by J. H. F. Farley, a printer, on October 6, 1866. C. B. Woods
was the editor, and the paper's policy was strongly Democratic, almost
openly advocating secession.
The Lake County Bee was established in Lakeport March 8, 1873, by
J. B. Baccus, Jr. L. Wallace becarhe a partner in the Bee June 14, 1877,
and on August 23rd of the same year, C. S. Smyth bought the interest of
Baccus. The next year R. W. Crump bought Smyth's interest, and he and
Wallace conducted the paper from October 24, 1878. On September 18, 1879,
A. C. Jackson became part proprietor with Crump. April 20, 1880, A. C.
Jackson & Co. succeeded Crump & Jackson.
The Lake Democrat, of the same political belief as the Bee, was started
June 15, 1875, by A. A. R. Utting, who continued in charge until April,
1879, when John R. Cook came into possession. On September 11, 1880,
the Bee and Democrat were consolidated, with J. R. Cook and A. C. Jack-
son as editors and proprietors. The Bee-Democrat was successively edited
by Marshall Arnold in 1891, and George Ray in 1892. The Avalanche was
founded by R. J. Hudson and run by H. A. McCraney and T. H. Rush in its
brief existence about these years. W. L. Rideout worked on the Avalanche
from 1893, and succeeded to its management in 1895. Frank W. Beach and
Burt G. Sayre acquired the Bee, which had then dropped the additional name
of Democrat, in 1893. Fred N. Loring and Henry Howe conducted it in 1895;
Loring and Rideout took charge of it in August of that year. H. W. Wood
edited it for a month in 1903. Rideout returned to its management, leased
and later sold to H. F. Cross, who conducted it. with exception of a month
under Harry Odell, until November, 1913, when J. J. Morton took charge.
Following the removal of the Clear Lake Press from Lower Lake to
Lakeport in 1891 it was conducted by John L. Allison. January 4, 1895, the
paper come into possession of the Hanson brothers, Nathan, Frank and
Da\id M., the last-named editing it. Before the end of that month, Mr.
Allison recovered the plant and resumed management, associating with him
David F. Mclntire and the latter's mother-in-law, Mrs. Marcia Mayfield.
June 7th of the same year, Mayfield & Mclntire acquired Allison's interest.
On September 16, 1905, Percy H. Millberry leased Mrs. Mayfield's share and
continued in partnership with Mclntire until October 5, 1907, when Ben S.
Allen leased the latter's interest. Allen retired December 15, 1907, Millberry
assuming the entire lease. Millberry installed the first standard linotype
140 ■ MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
in Lake county on April 15, 1912, and purchased the paper in September,
1913.
Lakeport was incorporated in 1888, and is still the only incorporated town
in the county. The present courthouse was built in 1870, and received an
outer cement coating in 1906. The A. Levy brick block was burned in 1890,
and immediately rebuilt and a story added. Lakeport citizens voted $15,400
bonds for a municipal water system December 20, 1898. System was com-
pleted in 1899 and has been successfully conducted since. Municipal wharf
built in 1904. Town installed septic sewer system in 1907. Municipal library
opened May, 1907. Cricket a favorite sport in county during 1891-94. Burns
Valley and Lakeport teams met San Francisco cracks. Water carnivals given
at Lakeport in July, 1896, and in June, 1907. Lake county voted saloons out
in 1893; hop buyers boycotted county growers; in 1895 county returned to
"wet" column. In April, 1912, Lakeport abolished saloons ; in November of
same year people passed by initiative an anti-saloon ordinance for entire
county, the first entire county going "dry" in California. Lakeport confirmed
anti-salcon stand by larger majority in April, 1914. Electricity first furnished
Lakeport in 1911 by Mt. Konocti Light and Power Co.
The first recorded sailboat on Clear-Lake was the "Plunger," sixteen feet
long, owned by J. Broome Smith. It was brought over the mountains by
wagon. The next boat of importance was a forty-foot schooner built by Henry-
Alter in 1862. The "Lady of the Lake," of twenty-five feet length and unusual
breadth, was launched by Captain Carr in 1866, and was a favorite pleasure
yacht for many years. The "Hallie" was the pioneer steamer on the lake.
She was purchased in San Francisco by Capt. R. S. Floyd and brought by
wagon by Capt. J. K. Fraser from Napa to Lower Lake. On the mountain
road the wagon upset and the craft was precipitated into a canyon, but was
reloaded without serious injury. The "Hallie" was launched in July, 1873. In
.August of that year Mrs. Chapman had a wharf built opposite her property
on the lake, the present Benvenue hotel site, which was the first wharf in Lake-
port. The Hallie was raised from the lake-bottom at Sulphur Banks by R. D.
Winters in 1908, rebuilt, and is now in use by the Yolo A\'ater and Power
Company dredger tender. This boat was originally a tender for the U. S. S.
Kearsarge.
The "Emma Garratt" was the next steamer, and was built in Lakeport in
1874, by Captains J. B. Robinson and William S. Luke. This craft was of
seventy-five feet length, had a stern paddle-wheel, and cost $7000. She was
operated for passenger and freight service between Lakeport and East Lake.
The "Mamie Coghill" was another old-time steamer operated on the lake by
the Bank of Lake. The "City of Lakeport," built by Captain Floyd in 1875,
was a seventy-eight foot model of the then finest steamers of the Pacific
Mail Steamship Company of San Francisco, having but nine feet beam, and
was brig-rigged. Up to 1879 the City of Lakeport made daily trips between
Lakeport and Lower Lake, Capt. J. K. Fraser commanding. This steamer was
used on the run between Lakeport and Bartlett Landing until 1906. She sank
at moorings ofif Lakeport in 1908, and a few months later was raised, beached
and broken up. The first wharf of the Bartlett Springs line was built in 1888,
at the foot of Second street.
The Colusa, Lake and Mendocino Telegraph Company had a telegraph
line from Colusa to Lakeport in 1874, which was afterward extended to Calis-
toga. In 1881 C. E. Lark acquired this line, and changed the company name to
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 141
the Northern Telegraph Company. The earliest public travel was by horse
stage lines into the southern end of the county, via Napa and Pope Valley, and
later from Calistoga, via Middletown, Cobb Valley, and Kelseyville to Lake-
port. In the '70s the most favored stage route was from Cloverdale, then the
terminus of the Donohue railroad, via Kelseyville, Lakeport and Upper Lake
to Bartlett Springs. Another line ran from Lakeport via Upper Lake, Witter
Springs, Pearsons Springs and Blue Lakes to Ukiah. Steamer service con-
nected Lakeport and East Lake (Sulphur Banks).
Kelseyville
This town, near the site of the first white man's habitation in the county,
had no development for years after the massacre of Stone and Kelsey. A
blacksmith named Benham started a shop there in 1857. Associated with him
was a wagon-maker named German. No other business place was established
until 1864, when T. F. Fall opened a store. Rosenbreau & Pace also estab-
lished a store and boarding house in the same year. The town has since grown
slowly but steadil}^ The New Era was published there by Otha L. Stanley
in 1890. The Kelseyville Sun was started in 1901 by McEwen & McEwen,
and conducted by them until sold to E. E. Bryant in 1912.
Upper Lake
Following the first settlement of this section, as described in the general
history, there came in J. M. Maxwell, J. B. Howard, M. Shepard, J. Gilbert,
L. A. Young, J. M. Denison, J. F. Crabtree, Caspar Sweikert, George A. Lyon,
Sr., A. J. Alley, George Bucknell, T. P. Maxwell, M. Waldfogel, S. H. Alley,
C. C. Rice, D. V. Thompson, J. B. Robinson, R. C. Tallman, J. F. Burger,
J. O. Sleeper, J. Pitney, M. Sleeper. One of the first schools was located at
Upper Lake, J. W. Mackall, later cashier of the Farmers' Savings Bank at
Lakeport, being the first teacher. William B. Elliott had a blacksmith shop
there in 1856.
The formation of the town began in 1866, when a man named Bukofsky
had a store there, and Caspar Sweikert a blacksmith shop. Bukofsky sold to
Houghton, and he to N. McCrosky. Henry Taylor established the first hotel.
William Elliott erected a grist mill in 1858, which was operated until 1867.
The Upper Lake planing and grist mill was erected in 1875 by Thomas
Keatley.
Stock raising and alfalfa growing for seed have been the principal indus-
tries of this section. The establishment of bean canneries has given Upper
Lake a big business growth.
Bean Canning
Henry Wambold was the pioneer in the string bean canning industry.
While proprietor of Laurel Dell resort in 1900, he experimented in that line,
and gave up the hotel business to operate a cannery at Tule Lake. In 1899
he started to reclaim that shallow and tule overgrown body of water, to utilize
the rich silt, which made fertile bean land. His successor, the Lake County
Canning Co., has completed this reclamation and operates a big cannery, built
in 1909.
A. Mendenhall established a bean cannery near Upper Lake in 1897, and
has (iperated successfully every season since, giving employment to 400 people
in the season.
142 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
The Lakeport CannerJ^ a stock company, started in 1902, under direction
of Mr. Wambold and C. L. Tindall, but failed in a few seasons by reason of its
distance from the bean fields.
In 1868 I. N. Chapman, a surveyor sent by the United States authorities
to survey the Lupyoma grant, which had been declared government land, at-
tempted a scheme to deprive the settlers of their lands. Delaying the making
of entries, he took his field notes to San Francisco. Judge A. P. McCarty
suspected Chapman's designs, obtained appointment as his deputy, and notified
every settler to file the proper papers, which were hurried by messenger to the
land office at Sacramento. Within a few days applications came from San
Francisco speculators for practically all the lands within the grant. Chapman
had connived with these applicants and aided them by making new plat books,
but the conspiracy was defeated by McCarty's prompt action.
Beginning of Middletown
Guenoc was the name of a village started in Coyote valley, which had but
a brief existence. Herrick & Getz had a store there in 1860, the first store in
the southern end of the county, but moved it the same year to Lower Lake.
Strader & Clark started a store there in 1866, and O. Armstrong had a saloon
there soon afterward. An Odd Fellows' hall was built, but was moved to
Middletown in 1871. The founding of the latter town, nearer the quicksilver
mines and at the junction of two roads killed Guenoc.
The first house was built at Middletown in the fall of 1870 by J. H. Berry,
who conducted a hotel therein. O. Armstrong started a saloon in the same
year. C. M. Young bought a half-interest in the townsite in 1871. D. Lobree
started the first store in 1872. The town developed and prospered in the da.ys
of extensive quicksilver mining in that section. It was then, as now, con-
nected by stages with Calistoga, Lower Lake and Lakeport. A brewery was
established in 1875 by Munz & Scott, which continued under varying manage-
ment until recent years. The Middletown Independent was established in 1886
by P. B. Graham and J. L. Read. Read bought Graham's interest in 1889 and
later in the same year sold a half interest to W. C. Pentecost. In 1895 Read
again acquired full control, placed T. A. Read as editor until 1899, and then
Warren E. Read until 1904, when the paper was sold to J- D. Kuykendall. The
latter conducted it one year and sold it back to J. L. Read, Warren Read again
becoming editor. On October 11, 1906, the paper passed to A. O. Stanley, who
published it up to January 1, 1911, when he leased it to his son, "Mort" Stanley.
The Independent was Republican in politics up to 1906, and independent since.
Quicksilver mining in this section reached the height of its development
about 1895. The Great Western Mine, operated by Andrew Rocca, employed
250 men and was equipped with modern machinery. This mine had been
located in 1850, but little development was made until 1872, when E. Green and
Hiram Taft operated it. The Mirabel mine was another large producer. The
Great Western and other small mines still produce considerable quicksilver.
A franchise to construct and operate a toll road was granted by the Legis-
lature in 1866 to John Lawley, a Mr. Patterson and Henry Boggs. The road
was built in 1867 from Calistoga over Mt. St. Helena to Middletown. The
toll road is still in operation by the Lawley heirs, a suit in 1909 to terminate
the franchise by reason of the death of the original grantees having been de-
cided in their favor.
MExNDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES • 143
CHAPTER XVIII
Some of the Resources of Lake County
Mining for borax was conducted in 1856 at Borax lake, east of Clear
lake. Dr. J. A. Veatch was the discoverer of the mineral, and formed the
California Borax Company, comprising Messrs. Peachy. Billings, Heydenfeldt,
Ayers, Maynard and others. The apparatus for extracting the borax from the
lake bottom was crude, and the enterprise was not profitable. Gen. W. S.
Jacks, an Englishman named Oxland and Colonel Lightner successively
worked as manager. The early miners of this company discovered a bonanza,
however, when prospecting on the shore of the east arm of Clear lake. They
mined there for sulphur, evidences of which existed widely, but soon discov-
ered the section was rich in cinnabar, or quicksilver ore.
First operating in 1874, under the old name of the California Borax Com-
pany, then consisting of John Parrott, Tiburcio Parrott, W. F. Babcock, D. O.
Mills and the William Burling estate, the corporation was changed to the Sul-
phur Banks Quicksilver Mining Company. With inadequate machinery, in
the first two years of operation, quicksilver to the value of $600,000 was pro-
duced. The average monthly production in 1876 was valued at $40,000. Harry
Lightner was the first superintendent. Sulphur Banks grew to be a town of
1000 population, 600 of the people being Chinamen, who worked in the poison-
ous fumes of the furnaces and concentrators. The mine greatly developed
other business in the county. F. Fiedler was the superintendent in the flush
times up to 1881. The operations previous to that time had all been surface
workings, but shafts were sunk that year. The country abounds in hot springs,
and it was found to be impossible to work for any distance below the surface.
The production began to decline. John F. Jefifress, Richard White, Robert
Dinsmore and other superintendents operated on a gradually lesser scale.
Riley A. Boggess had been connected with the mine, and in 1901 he promoted
the formation of the Empire Consolidated Quicksilver Mining Company,
floated a considerable amount of stock in the East and secured the names of
prominent New York capitalists for directors. The new company purchased
the Sulphur Banks and the Abbott mines in Lake county, and the Central
and Empire mines in Colusa county. The mines were never opened, and the
stockholders' money was wasted. The record of the Sulphur Banks since
has been constant litigation and abandoned works, but it is believed by many
that rich ore still exists there.
Mineral Springs
The many mineral springs of Lake county, possessing curative powers,
and which are now intensively utilized by the summer resorts built up around
them, and bottling works which conserve and put on the market the entire
flow of some of them, were known early. The aboriginal Indians were familiar
with the medicinal virtues of not a few of these springs and visited them in
numbers. In this way Capt. A. A. Ritchie discovered Harbin Springs at a
very early date. He obtained possession by location and held them six years,
disposing of the site to James Harbin, who owned the place for eleven years,
when Williams and Hughes acquired the springs. The buildings burned
September 6, 1894, at a loss of $35,000. Various owners have since held the
resort, which has been a favorite training headquarters for pugilists.
144 . MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Anderson Springs were located in 1873 by Dr. A. Anderson and L. S.
Patriquin, and opened to the public in 1874. Daughters of the original locator
conducted this resort to within a few years.
Adams Springs were located upon by Charles Adams in 1869, and suc-
cessive owners were Whitton brothers, J. S. Friedman and E. R. Moses.
Adams has been brought to a high state of development and popularity by
Dr. William R. Prather, prominent in political circles in California, who has
been its proprietor for twenty-seven years.
Howard Springs were discovered in 1877 by C. W. Howard, who opened
them to the public and transferred his interests to August Heisch the same
year. This is still a flourishing resort.
Seigler Springs were a favorite resort of the Indians when the white men
first came. These aborigines had rude baths arranged in the streams, making
possible regulation of the temperature of the boiling waters. A man named
Seigler was the first white locator. Dr. J. T. Boone made preparations to
develop the place in 1868. Alvinza Hayward and W. Cole of San Francisco
bought the property in 1870, and planned on a large scale to make it a popular
resort of the Pacific Coast. An immense sum of money was spent by them
in constructing a race track, building barns, landscape gardening, etc. Object-
ing to the high assessment which their improvements induced, the pro-
prietors allowed the place to go almost to ruin. Through many vicissitudes
and changes of management, Seigler Springs is still a favored place for
tourists.
Highland Springs were discovered by an old hunter named Ripley in the
'60s. He did little more than build a cabin and dig a tunnel into the creek
bank. Ripley sold to H. H. Nunnally and he to Dr. A. B. Caldwell, who began
building a hotel in 1871. H. Shartzer and S. M. Putnam purchased the place in
1872. The extensive hotel was completed in 1875. Dr. Bates and a Mr.
Hughes were later proprietors, the latter turning over the property to the
mortgagor, John D. Stephens, who, associated with Joseph Craig, conducted it
for years. The present hotel was built in 1897.
Henry Wambold built the new hotel at Laurel Dell in 1900, and sold it to
Edgar Durnan in 1901. Blue Lakes was a well-known place of resort as early
as 1880. The Blue Lakes Realty Co., under management of H. W. Kemp,
has greatly improved this resort in recent years.
Soda Bay possesses the distinction of the huge soda spring bubbling from
the waters of Clear lake, whence the name of the resort is derived. This fea-
ture is not only a wonderful natural phenomenon, but was celebrated by the
early Indians as one of their few mythological conceptions. The water, strongly
charged with carbonic acid gas, arises also at various points from the waters
of the bay John O'Shea, an early coroner of the county, lost his life by as-
phyxiation while bathing in this spring. Rev. Richard Wylie of Napa was the
first owner of the property, and he leased it in 1879 to A. K. Gregg.
Glenbrook is another resort, situated in Cobb Valley, which has been a
favored place, especially with fishermen, since early days.
Saratoga Springs were originally known after the name of the first propri-
etor, J. W. Pearson, who located them in 1874. He sold to J. J. Kebert in 1878.
The hotel was erected in 1874. John Mahrtens was a proprietor of this resort
for many years up to his death in 1913.
Witter Springs were discovered by Benjamin Burke in 1870, and were pur-
chased by Dr. Dexter Witter and W. P. Radcliff the following year. A road
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES ' 145
was built in 1872, and the original hotel in 1873. B. Holler was owner in 1892.
Many cottages were built at intervals, and a magnificent and immense hotel put
up in 1905.
Greene Bartlett, then a hunter, discovered the group of springs which have
since borne his name, in 1870. Trying the efficacy of the water for his rheuma-
tism, with satisfactory results, he guided a party of fourteen similarly afiflicted
friends to the place, and claimed they found a remedy for their ills. Mr. Bart-
lett located on the site, and successive managers of the resort were a Mr.
Gordon, W. W. Greene, Long & Brown, D. Alexander, J. C. Crigler, the Mc-
Mahon brothers, and C. C. McMahon. Beside the original hotel and many cot-
tages, two big and thoroughly-appointed hotel buildings have been erected in
recent years.
Big Valley township had the first settlement of white men, as has been
previously described. The pioneers who followed soon after the Hammack
party include the following, many of whose names are still represented by
descendants in the county: Charles Goodwin, Daniel Giles, Dr. J. S. Downes,
William Forbes, James Parrish, Dr. E. D. Boynton, George Tucker, George
Brewington, B. Caldwell, A. J. Plate, A. Levy, Robert Gaddy, J. H. Huston,
W. A. Thompson and family, Peter Clarke, J. B. Cook, W. S. Cook, Preston
Rickabaugh, Seth Rickabaugh, B. F. Shaul, G. W. Gard, A. Kouns, H. Cohn,
R. Kenned}', J. Ingram, S. F. Tucker, A. A. Slocum, C. A. Finer, J. M. Huston,
P. M. Daley, E. B. Bole, J. C. Crigler, Hiram Allen, J. C. W. Ingram, J. T.
McClintock, J. H. Jamison. In Scotts Valley there settled Greenbury Hen-
dricks, E. C. Riggs, William Gessner, John Lynch, J. M. Sleeper, J. Davis, A.
F. Tate and J. H. Moore. In Cobb valley: John Cobb, Simon Bassett and his
son, William D. Bassett. In Cold valley: H. R. Bolter; and in Paradise valley,
Isaac Alter.
Mills
While the accessible timber of Lake county has never been extensive,
small mills for supplying local demands were established from the earliest
period of white occupation. The Bruce saw mill existed on Cache creek in
1856. Thomas Boyd, known as "Dobe" Boyd, from the fact of his having lived
in the adobe house built by Kelsey & Stone, built the next mill, a saw and grist
mill combined, on the slope of Mt. Hannah, in 1858. It was burned in 1860,
and rebuilt on the road between Kelseyville and Cobb valley. Subsequent pro-
prietors were Allen & Shaul Brothers, Benjamin Moore, and H. C. Boggs.
John Cobb built a saw mill in Cobb vallej- in 1859. J. M. Harbin built a saw
mill at the summit of Cobb mountain in 1873. Thomas Allison built a flour
mill on Kelsey creek, two miles above Kelseyville, in 1860. It was burned, but
rebuilt in 1867, and owned successively by Allison & Standiford, and Peter
Burtnett. The Lower Lake flouring mill was built in 1869 by J. M. Everetts
and William Davy, was operated in 1871 by William Saywood, and in 1881 b}'
M. N. Young. Joel Stoddard had a mill northwest of Middletown in 1881.
The early mills in the Upper Lake section were the following: Pine Mountain
mill was built by J. Bateman and M. N. Young in 1865. Subsequent owners
were H. A. Humphrey & O. Smith, W. H. Manlove, and L. A. Young. The
Denison mill was moved from Mendocino county by A. J. Stroup, locating on
Little Horse mountain, and in 1872 to Pine mountain, operated later by Deni-
son and G. H. Haynes. J. F. Hanson built a small mill at the head of Long
valley in 1875. J. J. Andray had a mill a short distance above Bartlett Springs
146 MEXDOCIXO AND LAKE COUNTIES
in 1875 and 1876. Mills of recent years have been the Gunn & Akers, Peter-
son and Smith mills in the Cobb-Mt. Hannah section, Mason Bros, on Elk
mountain. M. B. Elliott on Bartlett mountain, the McKinley flour mill and elec-
tric light plant near Middletown.
Roads
The first roads connecting Lake county with the outside world were from
the south via Napa county. The next public communication was established
from Cloverdale by two roads, the Dodson road, built in 1865, and Matt Lea
toll road, built in 1877. Col. Fred Long built a new wagon road from Hopland
to Lakeport, striking the valley through Manning canyon, which was com-
pleted in June, 1890, at a cost of $5000. In the early '90s all roads into the
county were toll roads owned by private individuals. In 1899, after continued
agitation for a free road, the supervisors purchased the Long road for $3500.
Owing to some legal defect in the proceedings the county treasurer refused to
pay the warrant. Long abandoned his road and lost his rights, and neither
he nor his heirs received payment for it. The Blue Lakes toll road, connecting
Upper Lake with L^kiah, was purchased and made a free road in 1896.
The Highland Springs and Squaw Rock toll road was built in 1891, con-
necting what was then called Clear Lake station on the Donohue railroad with
Big valley. J. D. Stephens, proprietor of Highland Springs, and county citi-
zens subscribed the funds, $27,000. J. W. Boggs superintended the building.
The primitive horse stages over this road were superseded by automobile stage
service in 1907. The Lake County Automobile Transportation Co. was incor-
porated, with M. S. Sayre, William O. Edmands and Euvelle Howard the first
directors. At about the same time, \\'illiam J- Spiers installed auto stages on
his lines from Calistoga via Middletown.
Fruit Growing
Stock and grain were the earliest farm products of this sectitm. Cheese
making was among the first industries. The only fruit grown was in family
orchards. Prunes were extensively planted in the early '80s. W. G. Young,
the owners of the Mills and Hilsabeck ranches, and J. W. Boggs being pio-
neers in this line. Later, following a decline in prices, most of the prune
orchards were torn up. Bartlett pears, now the best product of the county,
ivere first grown in 1885. Joseph Laughlin and George Akers setting out the
first trees. Pears are also raised on the Boles and Allison ranches.
Clear Lake Water Utilization
From the beginning of white settlement in this region the use oi the flood
waters of Clear lake has been a constant source of controversy between indi-
viduals or corporations, seeking to utilize them for irrigation and power, and
the owners of lake frontage lands. The 45.000-acre area of this lake has been
a natural reservoir, storing a volume of water from three to thirteen feet in
height above the average low water mark over that area, the amount depending
on the winter's rainfall over its immense watershed. The restricted outlet of
the lake. Cache creek, prevents the flood waters from running off rapidly.
The first friction over the water rights was the notable episode of the de-
struction of the dam in 1868. Clear lake was declared navigable by the Legis-
lature March 29, 1878. with a provision that there should be no interference
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 147
with rights of swamp and overflowed land owners around the margin of the
lake to reclaim.
A survey was made by F. Formhals in November, 1892, for a project to
convey water in iron pipes for six miles from the Fowler mill site to the
junction of the two forks of Cache creek, there to be used to generate elec-
trical power. A narrow-gauge railroad from Rumsey up Cache creek was
proposed to utilize the power.
In the Legislature of 1892-93 Senate Bill No. 730 was passed, granting
Clear lake to Lake county, but Governor Markham vetoed it. Incorporation
papers were filed by James Armstrong, F. A. Simons, J. H. Culver, J. B.
Treadwell and C. H. King in December, 1893, for a project to develop Cache
creek to generate 40,000 horsepower for electric lighting and power in the
city of Oakland.
At about the same time A. S. Halladie filed notice of appropriation of
60,000 inches of water, to be diverted from Cache creek, at what was known as
the Grigsby rififle, the junction of Seigler creek with Cache creek. Another
appropriation by the same man sought to take the water at the Fowler mill
site. A dam across Cache creek, and ditches, pipes and flumes to convey it
nine miles below, where it was to generate electrical power, were fea-
tures of the project, as was also the electric railroad from Rumsey to Clear
Lake. The probable real purpose of this plan was to use the appropriated
water for irrigating in Yolo county.
J. D. Stephens had filed notice of appropriation of water from Cache
creek in Yolo county in June, 1859, the Clear Lake Waterworks Company in
1871, Cacheville Agricultural Ditch Co. in the same year, the Capay Ditch Co.
1879. Dozens of claims were made in Yolo and Lake counties which ended
with posting and filing. Some of these early claims and use of water formed
the basis upon which the Yolo Water and Power Company is now conducting
extensive operations.
The acquisition of Kelsey creek falls to generate electric power for Lake
county was agitated by citizens of Kelseyville in February, 1894.
The U. S. Department of Agriculture thoroughly investigated the Clear
lake and Cache creek irrigation and power possibilities in 1890, through James
M. Wilson, C. E.
C. G. Baldwin of Claremont, near Pomona, sought rights to utilize
waters of lake, promising power and light to towns in the county.
Westinghouse Electrical Company offered in November, 1896, to con-
struct a railroad from Vallejo to Lower Lake, in consideration of $20,000
subsidy from each of Lake and Napa counties, and grant by riparian owners
of their lake frontage.
The Clear Lake Electric Power Company secured twenty 40-acre tracts
of land in Cache creek canyon, and completed the survey for their dam in
March, 1898. This corporation proposed to use jiower for lighting but not
for railroad purposes. The directors in 1898 were R. Wylie, president ; J. K.
Eraser, vice-president; E. P. Clendenin, IT. P. Goodwin. E. H. Winship, gen-
eral manager.
Thomas J. Rodman sought in 1904 to build dam and keep outlet free of
obstruction, not to allow water to rise above Gyi feet above C. M. Hammond
low water mark. Attorney General Webb gave his opinion July 20, 1904,
that state has control of Clear Lake. Senator J. B. Sanford introduced bill in
Legislature February 25. 1905, for an appropriation of $20,000 to widen and
148 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
deepen outlet of lake to prevent winter damage. Bill passed the Senate but
v/as defeated by Ways and Means Committee.
Construction of the Snow Mountain Power and Water Company project
of utilizing Eel River in Gravelly Valley for electrical power in Mendocino
county was completed in 1907.
The Central Counties Land Company Bubble
Of all the paper projects and promotion schemes which had after repeated
failures made Lake county water development and railroads a byword, probably
the most sensational was that of the Central Counties Land Company, which
absorbed the county's interest in 1906 and 1907. This was one of the activities
of J. Dalzell Brown, who was sentenced in April, 1908, to San Quentin peni-
tentiary for eighteen months for his part in wrecking the California Safe
Deposit and Trust Co. Lake county people received much of the money of the
depositors in that wrecked institution.
The most widely advertised part of the Central Counties Land Com-
pany's project was the construction of a boulevard entirely around the cir-
cumference of Clear lake, a distance of eighty miles. One unit of this, a 2000,-
foot wooden trestle bridge across an arm of the northern end of the lake, was
completed in September, 1907, at a cost of $12,000. Brown had a splendid
concrete mansion built on the northeast shore at a cost of $60,000. The Hotel
Benvenue in Lakeport was bought and luxuriously furnished, principally
for the use of Brown and his associates when in the town. Underlying these
frills was the plan to acquire the lake waters for power and irrigation pur-
poses. E. P. Vandercook, one of Brown's associates, filed an appropriation
of 30,000 inches in Cache creek, in December, 1906. The Capay Ditch Com-
pany and Yolo County Consolidated Water Company lands along Cache
creek, the holdings of the Craig and Stephens interests, were deeded to the
new corporation. Riparian lands about the lake were bought at high prices.
The ranch of Heinze Springe, comprising three miles of lake frontage, upon
which the Brown mansion was built, was bought for $55,000. Of this, $27,000
was paid Springe in various installments, and later, upon the company's failure,
he recovered the land and the mansion, beside retaining the money paid.
The Yolo Water and Power Company Operations
A deed of all the company's holdings to cover a $5,000,000 bond issue was
filed in Lake county in October, 1907. Several efforts to rehabilitate the cor-
poration's project were unsuccessful. Its property interests have recently
been acquired by the Yolo Water and Power Company.
The latter company, the only one in the county's history engaging in ex-
tensive development work and apparently capable of carrying out its
plans, commenced operations early in 1912. A blanket condemnation suit was
commenced against all the owners of lake frontage, 207 individuals in all. With
one exception, that against W. P. Mariner, these suits have not been prose-
cuted, but the company has been buying riparian lands or overflow rights. A
concrete dam has been built across Cache creek at the Fowler mill site,
intended to raise the lake level ten feet above low water mark. A dredger
has also been built and commenced operations at reclamation work.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 149
County Development
Commencing in 1907, the county supervisors adopted the plan of con-
structing steel and concrete bridges to replace wooden structures, and the
following were built, at the rate of one a year: 150-foot steel bridge across
Scotts creek near Upper Lake, 1907, cost $5,630 ; 300-foot steel, across Kelsey
creek at Kelseyville, December, 1907, cost $13,800; concrete, crossing St.
Helena creek at Middletown, July, 1908, $5,865 ; steel, crossing Cache creek
near Lower Lake, October, 1909, $4,358 ; crossing Scotts creek at Sailor
ranch in Scotts Valley, 1910; smaller bridges over Middle and Clover creeks
above Upper Lake, 1911; over Copsey creek. Spruce Grove district, 1914.
Railroad Projects
With n(jt a mile of railroad within her borders. Lake county history has
been a succession of projects on paper and in the air, with but few ever
reaching any material performance. It was a favorite joke with Judge T. B.
Bond, an old-time lawyer of Lakeport, that he had in his time subscribed a
million dollars for railroads, but was never called upon to pay a cent. The
rim of mountains encircling the county has been a discouraging obstacle to
railroad construction.
The earliest project was probably that from Rumsey up the Cache creek
canyon, for which a survey was made by R. W. Gorrill in 1879. It was
supposed to have been fostered by the Southern Pacific.
Marshall Arnold of Lakeport was the chief promoter of a road from
Ukiah in 1884, in which considerable Lake county capital was expended. The
Taylor scheme from Hopland on a mileage basis soon followed this. A road
from Napa county by the McNulty-Pettibone syndicate in 1884 gave great
promise for a time, and was believed to have been blocked by the Southern
Pacific. Col. Fred Long proposed a wooden railroad from Hopland soon after
completing his wagon road.
A survey was made via Blue Lakes to connect with the then San Fran-
cisco and North Pacific railroad at Ukiah, in 1890. Another survey was made
from Ukiah via Blue Lakes and Scotts Valley, by F. H. Long in 1891. Collis
P. Huntington of the Southern Pacific proposed in the same year to build into
Lakeport for the consideration of the use of Clear Lake waters. A. H. Spurr
offered a proposition to Huntington in 1892, but received no satisfaction.
An electric line was proposed from Pieta to Lakeport in 1892, twenty miles
of road and equipment to cost $120,000.
The Clear Lake and Russian River Railway and Navigation Company
was incorporated in November, 1892. The first directors were F. W. Gibson,
president ; A. H. Spurr, R. W. Crump, D. W. White, M. Justus, A. Levy, C. E.
Phelan, M. S. Sayre, W. J. BiggerstaiT, William Gessner, H. B. Wells, L.
Sailor, W. D. Rantz. Its stock subscription required that no money should
be paid until the road was in operation.
At a mass meeting at the court house in Lakeport, October 1, 1893, the
Clear Lake and North Pacific railroad, a new proposition, was submitted.
The previous Clear Lake and Russian River Company favored this, and urged
stock subscribers to transfer their subscriptions to the new company. E. B.
Taylor solicited subscriptions. He and M. S. Sayre drew up a construction
contract and placed it in escrow in a San Francisco bank. Grading was to
150 MENDOCIXU AND LAKE COUNTIES
l>egin at once. Professor Kelly made the survey and estimated the total cost
at $300,000.
Richard W'ylie proposed in 1896 a road from Napa county through Conn,
Sage, Chiles and Pope valleys, thence up Butts canyon to Middletown, the
mines and springs. Lower Lake, up the lakeshore to Kelseyville and Lake-
port, a distance of eighty-five miles.
In June, ISOO. W. B. King projected the San Francisco and Clear Lake
railroad to build a broad-gauge steam road via \'allejo, Xapa, Sage and Pope
valleys, to southern end of lake. He wanted Lake county to subscribe $50,000.
This scheme was capitalized at $3,000,000.
^V'hat is known as the Boggs road was incorporated in 1903, under the
name of Clear Lake Railroad and Electric Power Company. Its capital stock
was $1,000,000, and it asked a $60,000 subsidy. The directors were L. H.
Boggs, Dr. W. R. Prather, J. W. Boggs, of Lake county ; G. W. Young of
Napa. W. C. Phillips and R. H. Bingham of Los Angeles. G. M. Dodge
surveyed the route from Cloverdale to Kelseyville. The Lakeport town trus-
tees and the county supervisors granted franchises to this company, which
vicre later forfeited for non-use.
The Santa Fe companj- made a survey through Lake county near Potter
Valley south to tidewater in 1904, in an elTort to tap the redwood regions of
Mendocino and Humboldt. This, a likely project, was abandoned when that
company joined with the Southern Pacific in the purchase of the California
Northwestern, or Donohue road, giving the Santa Fe the desired feeder,
in 1905.
The Napa and Lakej^ort Railroad Company — the R. M. Hotaling project —
was one which gave great promise of success in 1905 and 1906 ]\Iany citizens
believe the earthquake and San Francisco fire of April 18, 1906, and the
resulting money stringency, alone prevented the building of this road. W. M.
Rank, W. A. Cattell, C. K. Field, R. H. Bishop, J. \Vilder, D, D. Sales, Geo.
H, Alastick, James L. deFremery and Theodore A. Bell were associated with
Hotaling. This company asked no subsidy, but offered part of its $2,000,000
capital stock for sale at half par value. About $25,000 was subscribed, and
many rights of way were given.
Coincident with the highest point of this road's progress, the Clear
I.ake and Southern Company came into the field. It endeavored to secure
rights of way, but asked for no stock subscriptions. H. G. Comstock, Guy C.
Calden, H. L. Johnson. J. \\'. Dorsey and A. H. Elliott addressed a meeting in
Lakeport in October. 1905, making glittering promises, but nothing sub-
stantial materialized. This move was apparently an effort to obstruct the
construction of the Napa & Lakeport road.
The next project of importance was a local enterprise. Col. J. E. Fulton,
W. S. Fry, J. A. Sparks, D. F. Mclntire. \V, P. Mariner, J. J. Petty, R. M.
Beattie, Dr. O. T. Griner of Lakeport, Dr. A. E. Dickenson and J. W. Pres-
ton of Ukiah. J. R. Garner of Upper Lake, ^^'illiam Johnston of Kelseyville,
"Pop" McCrea of McCrea's resort, were interested at periods of this road's
promotion. First called the Sonoma and Lake County Railroad Compau)',
when organized in the fall of 1906 and incorporated in April, 1907, the name
was changed to Highland Pacific in September, 1909, when the capital stock
was increased to $2,500,000. The route first proposed was from Lakeport
via Highland Springs to Fulton on the Northwestern Pacific road. Later the
AIENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 151
survey, made by D. F. Mclntire, was extended to Santa Rosa. This company
sold about $104,000 in stock.
C. E. Loss, Walter M. James, T. F. Bonneau, William M. Willett, and
FI. B. Chase promoted the Clear Lake Traffic Company in October, 1908, later
incorporated as the Clear Lake Northern Railroad Company, capitalized "for
$1,000,000. The names of William L. Gerstle, William H. Tevis and Henry
T. Scott were later connected with this project. This company proposed a
hue from Hopland or Pieta to Lakeport. and completed its survey in March,
1909. The stock subscription in the county reached the sum of $127,000.
R. D. Winters, then a prominent citizen and contractor of Lakeport,
agitated a road from L'kiah via lilue Lakes in 1909, but met with little encour-
agement.
The Santa Rosa and Clear Lake Railroad Company had been co-operating
with the Highland Pacific at its start, but in December, 1910, projected a
narrow-gauge road via Kellogg to Middletown and Lower Lake. J. W.
Barrows and P. D. Reynolds were the engineers. A survey, several miles of
trail, and some six-foot grade were accomplished.
The latest and still pending railroad possibility is the Clear Lake Railroad
Company. Its principal agitator was Z. T. Spencer, a merchant of Lakeport,
when the project was launched at that place in March, 1911. The first plan
was for a narrow-gauge road from Hopland to Lakeport, estimated to cost
S200.000. D. F. Mclntire made a reconnoissance of the proposed route. The
company was incorporated May 17 of that year, the first directors being L. H.
Boggs, S. E. Brookes of Hopland, Milos M. Gopcevic, C. M. Hammond, presi-
dent; Euvelle Howard, H. V. Keeling, C. C. McAIahan of Bartlett Springs,
Joseph Levy, M. S. Sayre. Z. T. Spencer, A. H. Spurr. The capital stock was
$500,000, of which 316 persons subscribed the total amount of ,$95,400. C. R.
Rankin made the surveys. Over $78,000 in money was paid in by the stock-
holders. Ground was broken at Hopland on November 18, 1911, and the
contractors, Elliott & Axman, continued at intervals with the grading until
April, 1912, completing about seven miles of the twenty-three mile route.
All of the money subscribed was expended, and the directors found great
difficulty in completing the financing. A renewed effort to sell $50,000 in
stock, to make possible the required bond issue, was started in July, 1914, and
promises success. The present directors are L. H. Boggs, president; M. S.
Sayre, L. P. Clendenin, Lewis Henderson, H. V. Keeling, W. P. Mariner,
S. E. Brookes. Joseph Levy, C. M. Hammond, A\'. P. Hill, A. H. Spurr.
CHAPTER XIX
Officials, Schools, Churches and Fraternities
Following are the princi])al public officials who have ser\ed Lake county
since its organization, with the term of their service:
Assemblyman, the county during these years being a sejiarate Assembly
district: f. M. Coghlan, 1864-7; J. C. Crigler, 1868-71; W. W. Stillwagon,
1872-3; S." K. Welch, 1874-5 and 1878-9; R.' \'. S. Ouigley, 1876-7; A. P. Mc-
Carty, 1880; H. J. Crumpton. 1881-4; E. W. Britt. 1885-6; L. H. Gruwell,
1887-8; C. M. Crawford. 1889-90; J. H. Renfro. 1891-2; these Lake county
men elected from Colusa-Glenn-Lake district, Thos. ]. Sheridan, 1901-2; Frank
II. Smy the, 1907-8.
152 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
County Judge, O. A. Munn, 1861-3; J. B. Holloway, 1864-71; E. M. Paul,
1872-9; Superior Judge, R. J. Hudson, 1880-9; R. W. Crump, 1890-03, died in
office; M. S. Sayre, appointed 1903, elected 1904-14.
Sheriff, W. H. Manlove, 1861-2 and 1868-9; J. C. Crigler, 1863-7 and
1878-9; T. B. Burger, 1870-3; J. C. W. Ingram, 1874-7; Peter Burtnett, 1880-2;
L. H. Boggs, 1882-8 and 1891-4; Gawn Moore, 1889-90; G. W. Pardee, 1895-8;
John P. Moore, 1899-1906; George W. Kemp, 1907-10, killed m office May 5,
1910; Lyon Eraser, 1910-14.
Clerk, W. R. Mathews, 1861-5 ; S. Bynum, 1866-73 ; W. Mathews, 1874-5 ;
H. A. Oliver, 1876-84; Thomas Bynum," 1885-6; M. S. Sayre, 1886-8; W. L.
Anderson, 1889-94; H. W. Brewer, 1895-02; E. M. Alter, 1903, four months;
Shafter Mathews, won contest for election, 1903-14.
District Attorney, G. W. Marshall, 1861 ; Woods Crawford, 1862, 1866-7,
1872-3, 1885-6; J. H. Thompson, 1863-5; S. K. Welch, 1868-71 and 1891-2;
A. E. Noel, 1874-5; E. Townsend, 1876-7; D. M. Hanson, 1878-9 and 1883-4;
R. W. Crump, 1880-2 and 1887-8; M. S. Sayre, 1889-90 and 1895-02; D. F. Mc-
Intire, 1893-4; H. W. Brewer, 1903-6; Charles W. Haycock, 1907, died Feb-
ruary 28, 1908; C. M. Crawford, appointed 1908, elected 1910-4.
Recorder: Combined with clerk from 1881 to 1884; W. A. Thompson,
1885-86, same official also auditor, 1887-8; N. Phelan, 1889-92; George W.
Minstrell, 1893-8; Frank W. Beach, 1899-02; Euvelle Howard. 1903-6; J. W.
Beck, 1907-14.
Treasurer: N. Smith, 1861-2; J. B. Cook, 1863-7; W. S. Cook, 1868-71;
T. W. Everett, 1872-7; David Williams, 1878-84; O. V. P. Day, 1885-8; R. V. S.
Ouigley, 1889-92; P. T. Boone, 1893-4 and 1899-14; W. C. Moore, 1895-8.
Assessor: E. Musick, 1861-3; N. Phelan, 1864-7 and 1880-1; H. H. Nun-
nally, 1868-71; H. Allen, 1872-9; T- L. Smythe, 1882-6; W. H. Cunningham,
1887-94; S. S. Russell, 1895-02; C. M. Young, 1903-6; Fred H. Merritt, 1907-14.
Superintendent of schools : County clerk acted until 1864. T. Sleeper,
1864-5; A. P. McCarty, 1866-7; J. W. Mackall, 1868-9; Mack Mathews, 1870-3
and 1880-6; L. Wallace, 1874-7; J. W. Shirley, 1878-9; Mrs. S. M. Gillett,
1887-94; Mrs. E. K. Harrington, 1895-8; Charles W. Haycock, 1898-06; Miss
Hettie Irwin, 1907-14.
Coroner: J. W. Smith, 1861; S. A. Copsey, 1864-5; L. T. Musick, 1868-9;
W. R. Mathews, 1870-1 ; H. H. Lull, 1872-3 ; public administrator, L. C. Bur-
riss, 1868-9; J. Jenkins, 1870-1: J. O'Shea, 1872-3; the two offices combined
after this date; J. O'Shea, 1874-9; J. Male, 1880-2; Ira G. Yates, 1883-4; S. A.
Copsey, 1885-8; W. M. Woods, 1889-92; Mack Mathews, 1892-8 and 1903-14;
R. H. Lawrence, 1899-02.
Surveyor: Joel Willard, 1862-5; L. M. Musick, 1866-7; I. N. Chapman,
1868-9; George Tucker, 1870-5, 1883-4, and 1887-8; B. R. Wardlaw, 1876-7;
R. H. Lawrence, 1878-9; J. A. Kelly, 1880-1; S. H. Rice, 1885-8; D. F. Mcln-
tire, 1889-90 and 1906-14; J. B. Laughlin, 1891-2; Wright Mathews, 1893-04;
John L. Stubbs, 1905, appointed on death of Wright Mathews, elected 1906,
failed to qualify.
Auditor: A. H. Spurr. 1889-90; H. B. Sheldon, 1891-2; R. H. Lawrence,
1893-8; office combined with clerk 1899-02; F. W. Crawford, 1903-6: B. J.
Turner, 1907-14.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 153
Tax Collector: Office combined with sheriiif until 1888; E. P. Clendenin,
1889-90 and 1895-8; Elbert Hudson, 1891-4; office combined with treasurer
1899-02; Frank R. Farrier, 1903-September, 1913, resigned; M. J. Manning,
appointed, 1913-4.
Supervisors : First district, in 1884 number changed to Second, S. Hunt-
ing, 1861-3; D. D. Jones, 1864-7; J. W. Everett, 1868-71; A. F. Morrell, 1872-3,
1878-80 and 1895-02; R. K. Nichols, 1874-7; L. H. Gruwell, 1881-2; R. F.
Miles, 1882-6; H. H. Wilson, 1886-90; A. M. Akins, 1891-4; J. M. Adamson,
1903-14.
Second district, number changed in 1884 to First; J. H. Jamison, 1861-5
and 1876-7; E. L. Green, 1866-9; A. F. Tate, 1870-1; I. M. Davee, 1872-5;
G. E. McKinley, 1878-82; T- M. Hamilton, 1883-4; Dallas Poston, 1885-8; C. M.
Young, 1889-90; G. W. Rawson, 1891-2; George W. Kemp, 1893-6 and 1901-6;
Frank H. Smythe, 1897-1900; Hazen Cheney, 1907-12; T. A. Read, 1912-4.
Third district : J. W. Maxwell, 1861 and 1870-1 ; C. C. Rice, 1862-7 ; D. V.
Thompson, 1868-9; J. B. Robinson, 1872-9; Wm. Gessner, 1880-2; L. A.
Young, 1883-4; David Alexander, 1885-94; J. N. League, 1895-8; Charles W.
Phillips, 1899-14.
Fourth district, formed in 1884: L. A. Young, 1885-8; S. K. Welch,
1889-92; William Gessner and Samuel Clendenin tied in November, 1892,
election ; at special election in following month Gessner won and served until
1896; George A. Lyon, 1897-04; Thomas Patten, 1905-14.
Fifth district, formed in 1884: Lewis Henderson, 1885-08; John Kelsay,
1909-14.
Lakeport Town Officials: First meeting. May 10, 1888. Dr. M. R.
Chamblin, president; J. M. Hamilton, C. E. Phelan, Marshall Arnold, W. E.
Greene, trustees; James N. Hamilton, clerk; W. A. Thompson, Treasurer;
W. M. Woods, marshal; J. J. Bruton, attorney. H. M. Condict was appointed
clerk in September, 1888, on the death of Jas. N. Hamilton.
J. M. Hamilton resigned as trustee in 1889, and L. G. Simmons was
appointed. M. R. Chamblin served until 1892; C. E. Phelan to 1890; M.
Arnold to 1891, resigned, place filled by F. D. Tunis, to 1892; W. E. Greene to
1894, president in 1891, and elected a-ifain 1899. Other trustees serving at
various periods: Edward Cohn. 1890; P. T. Boone, S. S. Russell, 1892; David
Williams and N. O. Smith, 1894; J. W. Byrnes, 1895; Sanford Bruton. B. N.
Fisher, M. Wambold, 1896; Joseph Levy, 1898, and succeeding terms; W. T.
Whitton, H. D. LaMotte, 1904; A. H. Spurr, 1904; J. M. Church, 1904;
Samuel Edmunds, W. W. Page, R. M. Beattie, 1908; F. H. Boggs, 1910;
W. C. Moore, Fred A. Greene, Dr. W. R. Lane, 1912.
Succeeding clerks were A. B. McCutcheon, 1890; C. E. Phelan, 1891 ; M. S.
Sayre, 1891, resigned in 1892, reappointed same year; H. V. Keeling, 1894-08;
H. B. Churchill, 1908-14; George H. Neal, 1914. Treasurers: F. H. Boggs,
on death of W. A. Thompson, 1894; Frank Howe, 1894-1903; John G. Crump,
1903-14; P. T. Boone, 1914. Marshals: W. E. Hixson, 1891, on death of Woods;
Sam Allen, 1891 ; James W. Laycock, 1892; J. E. Mitchell. 1894-8; R. E. Barry,
1898-02; R. J. Hammack, 1902-08; J. H. Miller, 1908-14. Town attorneys:
Charles F. Fishback, 1889; Thomas B. Bond, 1890; Woods Crawford, 1892;
D. F. Mclntire, 1897-03; H. V. Keeling, 1903-10; H. B. Churchill, 1910-14.
Town recorder: H. W. McGee, 1889; S. G. Gully, 1889; D. H. Atherton,
1891 ; W. W. P. Bruton, 1895; J. J. Bruton, 1899-14.
154 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Schools
Of the early history of schools in Lake. county, the official records were
destroyed in the courthouse fire of 1867. They existed from the time of county
organization, the county clerk acting as superintendent of schools up to 1864.
when T. Sleeper was elected to that office. The first school was established
in Big valley, near the home of Thomas, or "Dobe," Boyd, now the Ricka-
baugh ranch. The following districts were organized up to 1869, with a total
attendance that year of 760 pupils: Cinnabar, Lower Lake, Excelsior, Rincon.
Morgan Valley, Burns Valley, Loconoma, Uncle Sam, Kelsey Creek, Lake-
port, Blue Lake, Big Valley, Pleasant Grove, Upper Lake. By 1881, Ash-
land, Bachelor Valley, Bartlett Springs, Cobb Valley, Calayomi, Clover Creek,
Cache Creek, Eureka, East Lake, Fair View, Great Western, Gravelly Valley.
Highland, Lakeshore, Liberty, Mountain, Middletown, Spruce Grove, Sul-
phur Bank and Scotts Valley districts had been formed and the attendance
that year \yas 1569. Other districts formed since, some of which have lapsed
or been merged into others, are : Mountain Mill, West Lake, Middle Creek.
Alcove, established 1892; Mono, San Hedrin, Gruwell, Sunset, in 1896;
Konocti, 1910; Hammond, 1912; Big Canyon, 1913, and Long Valley, 1913.
Churches
The Methodist Episcopal Church South was the pioneer church within
the bounds of Lake county, having been organized in a school house in Big
Valley in 1857. Rev. Norman organized the church. Subsequent early pas-
tors in Lakeport, Big and Scotts Valleys, were Revs. Hawkins, Jones and
Clampett, up to 1865; P. O. Clayton, 1865; W. A. Spurlock, 1866; J.L. Porter,
1867; Y. D. Clanton, 1868-9; H. X. Compton, 1870-1; L. J. Hedgpeth, 1872;
John Woodin, 1873; W. E. Murry, 1874; R. F. Allen, 1875-7; I. C.Vendergast.
1878-9; B. F. Burriss, 1880; J. C. C. Harris, 1881.
The Episcopal church was represented under the title of Trinity Mission
from 1876 to 1881, with Rev. W. S. Neals in charge. The present church was
built by Mrs. A\^illiam B. Collier in 1901 as a memorial to her little son, John
Pierre Collier.
The First Baptist Church of Lakeport was organized in 1861, Rev. S.
Reily being the first pastor. He was succeeded by Revs. J. N. Burroughs,
1862; D. G. Loveall, 1863; T. D. Banner, 1865-6; B. Ogle, 1866-76; E. Waller.
1876-8; D. L. Taylor, 1868; G. H. Lillard, 1879; R. C. White. 1880.
Clear Lake Circuit of the Methodist Episcopal Church was organized
in 1857. Early preachers were S. W. Norman, James Corwin, G. B. Davis.
George A. Lyon, Noah Burton, Asa J. White. The first camp meeting was
held at Upper Lake. The Kelseyville church was built in 1870.
The Catholic church has had a mission in this field since 1867. The first
priest was Father Luciano O'Suna. The St. Turibius Mission O. F. M., Rev.
Fr. Philemon Toepfer, Superior, is planning to build a fine new church and
parish house at Lakeport.
The Presbyterian church at Lakeport was organized August 9, 1874.
Lots for church site and parsonage were secured in 1878. The house of
worship was built in a different location in 1883. The Upper Lake congrega-
tion with its edifice was an integral part of the Lakeport church till 1912.
For most of the time until 1907 the time and service of the ministry were
shared with the Presbyterian church at Kelsevx'ille. .\11 nf the ministers
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 155
were stated supplies though several times the congregation either called or
Vi^as ready to call and settle a permanent pastor. The first membership
including the Upper Lake congregation was thirteen. The succession of
ministers serving six months or more is as follows : James L. Woods, five
years, 1873-78; James A. Mitchell, one year, 1879-80; Jacob B. Rideout, five
years, 1882-87; Stewart S. Caldwell, one year, 1887-88; Edwin H. Jenks, three
years, 1888-91 ; Hervey W. Chapman, twelve years, 1891-04 (with one addi-
tional year alone at Kelsey 1890-91) ; Henry C. Meredith, one-half year, 1905;
(a Methodist, J. L. Woods, Presbyterian moderator of sessions) ; Wilhelm C.
Spaan, two years, 1905-7; Winfield C. Scott, half a year, 1908-09; John P.
Hearst, Ph.D., ten months, 1911 ; George F. Haerle (Congregational) 1912.
Fraternities
ODD FELLOWS: Clear Lake Lodge No. 130, I. O. O. F., was organized
at Lower Lake January 16, 1867. The charter members were W. P. Berry,
D. M. Hanson, the only one now living; William Farmer, William Kesey,
H. Allen, H. H. Nunnally and J. H. Berry. D. M. Hanson was the first Noble
Grand. W. C. Goldsmith, still living, was initiated into this lodge in 1867.
The lodge built its hall in 1868.
Friendship Lodge No. 150 was organized at Guenoc December 25, 1868,
with \\'illiam Farmer, J. H. Berry, H. H. Nunnally, O. Armstrong, M. Getz,
AVilliam Amesberry and William T. Miles as charter members. Its first
Noble Grand was J. H. Berry. They built a hall at Guenoc and in 1871 moved
it to Middletown. A new hall was built in 1875.
Lupyomi Lodge No. 173 was instituted at Lakeport July 16, 1870. The
charter members were S. K. Welch, first Noble Grand ; Louis Charmak, W. L.
Phillips, J. C. Parker, J. O. Johnson and J. W. Robbe. This lodge erected the
brick building now known as the Scudamore & Co. store, on credit, and
through neglect and mismanagement the creditors took it over in 1885, the
lodge charter then being taken to Kelseyville. At the latter place the lodge
built a hall in 1886, which was destroyed by fire in 1889, but promptly rebuilt.
Konocti Lodge had been organized in Kelsevville in 1875, but lasted but a
short time.
Upper Lake Lodge was instituted January 8, 1876. The charter members
were Dexter Witter, D. T. Taylor, Orrin Smith, Mark Asher, C. Johnson, C.
G. Grove, L. Gurnett, W. Ballinger, R. P. White, W. H. Woodard, G. K.
McMath, F. M. Gully, and H. Palmer. Dexter Witter was the first Noble
(irand. Their present building was erected in 1898.
Lakeport Lodge No. 351 was instituted April 11, 1889, by L. Carpenter,
(iawn Moore, George A. Lyon, S. S. Russell, first presiding officer ; Thomas
Haycock, W. Keithly. J. R. Edwards, D. C. Rumsey, G. E. Moore and O.
McCraney.
MASONS: Clear Lake Lodge No. 183, F. & A. M., was organized at
Lower Lake February 4, 1867. The charter members were L. B. Thurman,
Charles Wormwood, C. Noble Copsey, W. R. Mathews, T. M. Harris, D. M.
Hanson, J. D. Hendricks. W. W. Davis, J. C. Crigler, Z. C. Davee, J. U.
Adams. Charles Stubbs, F. M. Herndon, William Christiansen, C. C. Ruch,
L. P. Nichols. L. B. Thurman was the first Master.
156 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
Hartley Lodge No. 199 was instituted May 1, 1869. Its charter members
were Allen D. Green, first Master under dispensation ; Woods Crawford, first
Master under charter; D. V. Thompson, L. C. Burris, J. W. Casebeere, M.
Sleeper, Thomas Hayter, Ed L. Greene, A. Levinson and William Meredith.
The members serving as Master have been Allen D. Green, 1869; Woods
Crawford, 1870-2, 1889, 1892-3 ; J. C. W. Ingram, 1873 ; James Parrish, 1874-5,
1886, 1888; F. D. Tunis, 1876; John R. Cook, 1877; J. W. Mackall, 1878-9,
1881-5, 1887; John W. Elliott, 1880; Marshall Arnold, 1890; G. W. Mallory,
1891; Angelo Biggi, 1894; C. J. Monroe, 1895, 1900; C. W. Kellogg, 1896;
David Williams, 1897; M. S. Sayre, 1898; G. W. Myers, 1899; J. F. McClure,
1901 ; Euvelle Howard, 1902; Herbert V. Keeling, 1903-4; Jabez Banks, 1905;
C. W. Haycock, 1906 and 1908; A. M. Reynolds, 1907;" Shafter Mathews,
1909; J. M. Church, 1910; Dr. William R. Lane, 1911 : John D Monroe, 1912;
D. W. Greene, 1913; George H. Neal, 1914.
Lakeport Lodge No. 34, A. O. U. W., was organized May 23, 1878, with
the following charter members: J. C. W. Ingram, first Master; H. A. Oliver,
A. P. McCarty, Theodore Deming, R. W. Crump, J. B. Baccus Jr., A. A. R.
Utting, Enoch Yates, J. F. Cowan, Thomas G. Adams, J. F. Scott, Dr. H. J.
Crumpton, G. H. White, P. M. Daly, F. H. Vallette and G. W. Wilson. The
lodge flourished for a period, but experienced reverses and finally dissolved
about 1909.
■'^■M^^-^J^
BIOGRAPHICAL
HON. JOHN QUINCY WHITE.— More than three decades of close
personal identification with the bar and the bench of Mendocino county have
given to Judge White an enviable reputation as an able attorney and an
impartial jurist. In this era of restless change it is something to have spent
so long a period in one community, something to have won his way to influ-
ence as he has done, something to have risen to prominence in the eyes of his
fellowmen and something to have erected steadily and conscientiously the
intellectual and professional structure which indicates his aims and purposes
in life. Withal it is something to indicate an attorney's capability and integ-
rity that he should be chosen on the Democratic ticket in a Republican county
to serve as judge of the superior court, and re-elected at the expiration of the
first term, thus indicating the satisfactory nature of his impartial, able service
as judge. It is also worthy of note that at the primary election in 1914 he was
re-elected by a large majority.
Descended from a long line of southern ancestors, Judge White was born
in Lafayette county, Mo., February 3, 1852, and was a son of John and
Lucretia (Williamson) White, natives respectively of Tennessee and Ken-
tucky. Primarily educated in public schools, he later attended a seminary
in Lafayette county and in 1872 came to California, where he attended the
Christian College in Santa Rosa for four years. Immediately after his gradu-
ation in 1876, receiving the A.B. degree, he returned to Missouri and matricu-
lated in the law department of the State University at Columbia, where he
completed the regular law course in 1878, receiving the degree of LL.B.
During the same year he opened an office for law practice at Warrensburg,
that state, .\ year later he removed to Colorado and engaged in practice at
Trinidad, but in 1883 he again came to California, this time establishing resi-
dence at Ukiah. where he has since risen to prominence as lawyer, citizen
nnd jurist.
In 1878 Judge White married Miss Lula H. Sparks, of Lexington, Mo.,
who died in Ukiah in 1908. In February, 1913, he married in San Jose Miss
Harriet Ortley, a native of Santa Clara county, and a graduate of the San
Jose State Normal. For some years she was principal of the Alviso schools.
With his wife Judge White is a member of the Christian church.
Shortly after his arrival in Ukiah Mr. White was elected district attorney
of Mendocino county and that position he filled for two terms. At the
expiration of his period of service he formed a partnership with W. P. Thomas
under the firm name of White & Thomas and continued in active and suc-
cessful practice until he was called to serve upon the bench. In 1902 he was
elected judge of the superior court of Mendocino county and at the expiration
of the first term in 1908 he was re-elected for another term of six years.
Frequently he has been called to serve as judge in important cases in other
counties of the state, and, wherever his service has been, he is known for the
fairness and impartiality of his decisions. When off the bench his friend-
ships are as strong as those of any man, but in court he is not swayed by the
160 MEXDOCIXO AND LAKE COUNTIES
friendship of litigants or lawyers, and it is largely this attitude of mind that
lias gained him the confidence of the judges of the higher courts. His name
stands for fine public service and progressive citizenship. The movement for
the establishment of the Mendocino state hospital .had in him a promoter from
.its inception. During the erection of the administration building of the hospital
group he served as a member of the board of directors and was consulted re-
garding everv phase of the management, but later retired from the directorate.
COL. CHARLES MIFFLik HAMMOND.— Ma Tel vineyard, situated
on the eastern shore of Clear lake, and famous for the beauty of its site and
abundant natural resources. Colonel Hammond's six hundred acre estate and
palatial residence are noted among the most inviting spots in that section of
Lake county — the East Upper Lake precinct. Thirtv years of scientific care
have made it one of the show places of the county. Its grapes and olives have
helped to make local products take first rank with their kind. Though he
has become one of the most public-spirited citizens of the county. Colonel
Hammond is a New Englander born and bred, his ancestors on both paternal
and maternal sides having lived in or around Boston, Mass., for several genera-
tions. He is a native of Massachusetts, born at Nahant August 4, 1861, but
his early life was spent at New London, Conn., whither his parents moved the
summer after his birth. Gardiner Greene Hammond, his father, was born in
Boston in 1833, and died in 1902. By occupation he was a farmer, cultivating
the fine tract of two hundred acres which he owned at New London, on Long
Island sound. His wife, whose maiden name was Elizabeth Crowninshield
Mifflin, was born in Boston in 1835, and difed in 1877. Of the si.x children
born to them, Elizabeth Crowninshield, wife of William Appleton, of Boston,
was killed in a railroad accident in the year 1880, at the age of twenty-three ;
she left one child. Gardiner Greene, Jr., is a resident of ^lassachusetts. Charles
Mifflin is mentioned below. Susan Greene is the wife of William O. Edmands,
of Lake county, a farmer. Mary Crowninshield, who died leaving two chil-
dren, was the wife of Edward Brooks and lived at Hyde Park, Mass. Edward
Crowninshield, who lives on the old home place at New London, Conn., mar-
ried Anna Chapin Rumrill. of Springfield, Alass.
Charles Mifflin Hammond passed his boyhood on his father's farm at New
London. \\'hen eleven years old he entered St. Paul's School at Concord, N.
H., a preparatory institution for boys, where he took the classical course,
graduating in 1879. In the fall of that year he matriculated at Harvard,
where he pursued the general course, graduating in 1883. It was only a few
months later that he came out to California, arriving at Rutherford, Napa
county, in January, 1884. To acquire the necessary experience he began
work as a farm hand for Captain Niebaum, who was a vineyardist, and on
whose place he gained his first knowledge of viticulture, learning the care of
the grapevine and its product thoroughly. From the start he studied his
chosen work scientifically, and time has proved that his efforts have not been
wasted. During his first year in California he made a trip into Lake county
and was so well impressed with the land that in partnership with his brother
Gardiner he made a purchase of twelve hundred and thirty-four acres, in the
Upper Lake precinct, taking possession on November 1st. His brother sub-
sequently sold his interest in this tract to their brother-in-law, Mr. Edmands,
who now owns about six hundred and forty acres of the property. Colonel
Hammond retaining six hundred. He has beautified his land by extensive im-
MEXDOCINC) AND LAKE COUNTIES 161
provements and systematic development, and the natural advantages of the
site have been turned to the best possible use. Twenty years ago he set out an
olive orchard of twenty acres, which is still in prime bearing condition, and he
also has a vineyard of twenty-five acres, the varieties including Black Bur-
gundy, Alataro, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, a few Zinfandels, Sauvignon
Vert, and White Semillon. His beautiful field lands are also a valuable
portion of the property, and he has given proper attention to their cultivation,
which has proved highly profitable. Many of Colonel Hammond's ancestors
have been manufacturers and men of large affairs in other lines of business,
hut agriculture has evidently been a wise choice in his case, though undoubt-
edlv the business ability he has inherited has been an important factor in the
handling of his large interests, which he has managed with consummate abil-
ity. His home is four miles southeast of the town of Upper Lake.
As might be expected from one of his training, accustomed to environ-
ments where literary education and general culture have become a matter of
course. Colonel Hammond has been zealous in securing such benefits for his
adopted community, and it was largely due to his efforts that the only high
school in Lake county, the Clear Lake Union high school at Lakeport, was
established. His strenuous efforts and material help made the school possible,
and he is still serving as one of its trustees. There are many other evidences
of progress in Lake county introduced or encouraged by him. Though con-
servative and not given to favoring things which have merely the attraction of
novelty to recommend them, he is a true friend of progress and good govern-
ment, as he has shown on numerous occasions. He has given his influence
and substantial aid to the Clear Lake railroad, is a director of the company,
and was Lake county's representative in the Sacramento Valley Development
Association. Straightforward and outspoken. Colonel Hammond is thor-
oughly sincere and honest in his views and in giving expression to them,
and though he may have met and incurred opposition it has been in the
spirit of his ancestors who preferred to fight in the open rather than use
roundabout means of gaining their ends. His heritage of training and con-
science would permit him to take no other course than the direct one, and all
his methods will bear close scrutiny, and not leave unpleasant surprises for
the future to reveal. From his own large possessions, and the extent to which
their value has been endangered by the dam on Cache creek, the outlet of
Clear lake, being built by the Yolo Water & Power Company, it might seem
that his efforts to stop the activities of that company were actuated by selfish
motives, but it is well known that protection for himself will mean the same
for many others, and he has made stubborn resistance to encroachments, in
behalf of his fellow citizens as well as on his own account. He has led the
opposition to the company and has proved a powerful adversary, his strict
integritv holding the confidence of his co-operators, and his unyielding dis-
])osition in what he believes to be a just cause encouraging them to hold out
lor their rights, for the attempts of the Yolo company to acquire the shore
lands of the lake for a sum which would be less than a million dollars — •
which acquisition would virtually control the forty thousand acres of the lake
Ijroper — he considers to be absolutely ridiculous. From the Yolo company's
own figures it is shown that the value of ten feet of water in the lake, when
used for power and irrigation purposes, is worth a million dollars a year,
and he sees no reason whv this should not accrue to the people of the county
162 MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
;uinually instead of a beggarly pittance being paid once to a few lake shore
owners. The closing of the dam would absolutely destroy many thousands
of acres lying below the proposed high water level of ten feet, and two-thirds of
Colonel Hammond's place would be ruined, as it would be under water till
a period of the year when it would be impossible to farm it. The Colonel
would like to see what he considers Lake county's greatest asset conserved
and saved for the use and benefit of her people, as he believes the wealth
of the county generally will be greater if her resources are devoted to enrich-
ing them instead of an outside corporation. Hence his support has been
given to the side he regards as most deserving.
Colonel Hammond acquired his title by being appointed to serve on the
staff of Gov. James N. Gillett of California with the rank of lieutenant-colonel,
and has kept up old associations through his membership in the University
and Harvard clubs of San Francisco. He also belongs to the Somerset Club
of Boston. On political questions he adheres to the Republican party, and is
unfailing in his loyalty to its traditions and former achievements, the glories
of its triumphs during the Civil war period, and the years of unbroken suc-
cess which followed.
On December 18, 1888, Colonel Hammond was married, in Massachusetts,
to Miss Harriet Paine Lee, daughter of George Cabot Lee, the sister of the
first wife of ex-President Roosevelt. They have no children. Mrs. Hammond
was formerly a Unitarian, but she is now associated with the Episcopal Church.
EDWARD PORTER. — The proprietor of the Richelieu, a native son of
Ukiah, was born June 10, 1868, and is the son of Edward and Julia E. (Weller)
Porter. The father, who was born and reared in Iowa and there learned the
trade of harness-maker, came across the plains with oxen and wagons about
1865 in company with his father-in-law, Elisha Weller, and other members of
the same family. Arriving in Mendocino county, Mr. Weller took up land
three miles south of Ukiah and Mr. Porter took up work at his trade. The
former prospered to such an extent that he ultimately held the title to three
large ranches, but the latter, less fortunate in his business undertakings and
starting back to the east, was never heard of again, the supposition being that
he met with an accidental death on the plains. Surviving him are four children,
namely : John E., now of Bakersfield ; Van A., who is living at Upper Lake ;
Edward, of Ukiah ; and Malinda May, Mrs. Tallman, who makes her home at
Bartlett Springs, Lake county. The mother is now the wife of P. C. Phelps
and is living at Upper Lake, Lake county.
After he had completed the studies of the Ukiah public schools Edward
Porter took up the task of earning a livelihood and for a time worked on the
ranch of his mother in Lake county. Later he followed other occupations. For
nine years he was employed as stage driver for Len Barnard between Fort
Bragg and Westport. Upon returning to Ukiah he engaged with B. S.
Hirsch of the Grand hotel for three years, since which time he has been
proprietor of the Richelieu. In Ukiah he was united in marriage with Miss
Lulu E. Rhodenbaugh, who is a native of Kansas City, Mo. Although not a
partisan in politics, he is stanch in his support of Republican principles.
While making his headquarters at Fort Bragg he was an active member of
Alder Glenn Parlor No. 200 in that town, also took an influential part in the
work of Santana Tribe No. 60, Improved Order of Red Men, and since return-
ing to Ukiah he has become a member of Camp No. 319, F. O. E.
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 1^5
HON. MORTON SMITH SAYRE.— The judge of the superior court
o{ Lake county, who is likewise president of the Bank of Lake and vice-pres-
ident of the Clear Lake Railroad Company, as well as a large stockholder in
the Northern California Telephone Company, was born at Reedtown, Seneca
county, Ohio, December 2Z. 1847, and is a son of John B. and Mary A.
(Hanks) Sayre. The father, a native of Benton Center, Yates county, N. Y.,
!:iarried Miss Hanks in Steuben county, that state, and took his young wife
to the then frontier of Ohio, where he improved a farm. Four children were
born on the Ohio homestead and about 1853 the family returned to York
state, where the four youngest children were born. All but one of the eight
lived to maturity, namely: Evaline, who died at the age of eighteen years;
Morton Smith, the well-known jurist of Lake county; Rozilla G., the widow
<f Theodore Colgrove and a resident of Los Angeles; Grattan W., a railroad
man connected with the Chicago & Northwestern Railroad, with headquar-
ters in Chicago; George H., a gold miner now at Tonopah, Nev. ; Dwight O.,
u stock dealer living in Missouri ; and Angle F., wife of V. S. Johnson, of
South Dakota.
Between the years of six and ten Judge Sayre lived on a farm in Steuben
county, N. Y., and attended the public school in that vicinity. About 1857
his father was injured so seriously that he was left an invalid' and, no longer
able to engage in farming, he removed to Hammondsport, Steuben county,
where in an effort to regain his health the savings of years of arduous labor
were expended. However, the son was sent to the common schools and
Hammondsport Academy. While a student in the academy he relinquished
school work to enlist in the Union army. Early in 1864, when but sixteen
years of age, he became a private in Company E, One Hundred and Sixty-
first New York Infantry. Assigned first to the department of the Gulf under
General Banks and later to an engineering brigade on the lower Mississippi
under Colonel Bailey, he was next transferred to the Thirteenth Army Corps
under General Canby and marched from Fort Morgan at the mouth of Mobile
bay to Spanish Fort and Fort Blakely, where he took part in the memorable
.siege, thence crossed the bay to Mobile. In November, 1865. when still less
than eighteen, he was mustered out at Tallahassee, Fla.. and honorably dis-
charged. During his absence in the army his parents had moved to Almond,
Allegany county, and he joined them there, attending the local academy for
three winters and earning a livelihood by day tasks in the summer months.
He also taught at Bishopville, N. Y., for one winter. When twenty-one he
entered Alfred University, but stopped the next winter to teach school.
Through all of this period he was earning his own way and paying for his
education.
Attracted to Iowa by its opportunities, Mr. Sayre lived at Denison from
the spring of 1870 until 1880. In 1872 he married at Almond, N. Y., Miss
Delia Genung, of Almond, that state, who died in 1877, leaving one child,
Burt G., now in the hardware business at Lakeport. Beginning in a bank
at Denison as clerk, Mr. Sayre rose to be assistant cashier as well as attor-
ney for the institution. In his leisure hours he had read law with Judge M.
H. Wygant, of Denison, and about 1876 he was admitted to the bar at Council
Bluffs, not, however, practicing in that state except in connection with the
bank's law affairs. A serious throat trouble caused him to resign his bank
166 AIEXDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES
position and seek a change of climate in California, where he spent the years
1880-85 in business in San Francisco. Being not in the least benefited there,
he came to Middletown, Lake county, in 1885, and immediately his health
began to improve, which caused him to become a permanent resident of the
county. Elected county clerk in 1886, he moved to Lakeport during Decem-
ber of that year. After two years as clerk and two years as district attorney,
from January, 1891, to January, 1895, he engaged in law practice with ex-
Judge R. J. Hudson, under the firm title of Hudson & Sayre. In 1894 he was
again chosen district attorney and re-elected in 1898, serving until January 1,
1903. At the expiration of the last term he formed a law partnership with
II. V. Keeling under the name of Sayre & Keeling.
On the death of Hon. R. W. Crump he was appointed by Governor
George C. Pardee to fill the vacancy as judge of the superior court. In 1904
he was elected to the same office and four years later was again chosen as
his own successor. His decisions in the court are governed bv a wide knowl-
edge of the law and a uniform impartiality of temperament and have won
for him the respect of the higher courts, as well as the admiration of local
people and a reputation for high legal attainments and wise decisions. With
his wife, who prior to their marriage on New Year's day of 1907, was Mrs.
Maude M. Swayze of Lakeport, he has an enviable social standing in circles
where culture and breadth of mental vision, supplementing honorable prin-
ciples, are the open sesame. In politics he votes the Republican ticket.
Always interested in Grand Army work, he has been the most efficient and
popular promoter of its interests and has served as commander of Gaylord
Post at Upper Lake. At this writing he is inspector of the Nineteenth Ma-
sonic district. He was made a Mason at Denison, Iowa, and afterward took
the Royal Arch degrees at Dunlap. With his wife he has co-operated in the
work of the Eastern Star and the Rebekahs, while he is now past noble grand
of Lakeport Lodge No. 351, I. O. O. F. Besides his interests in the bank
and the railroad and his financial connection with other local enterprises, he
is the owner of town property at Lakeport and also unimproved country hold-
ings as well as two improved farms in Lake county, all of his interests being
concentrated in the county to whose permanent upbuilding he has been a
constant contributor.
WILLIAM O. EDMANDS.— There are two notable estates on the east-
ern shore of Clear lake, in Lake county, those of William O. Edmands and
his brother-in-law. Colonel Hammond. They have been established here since
the summer of 1884, when three Boston men, including Colonel Hammond,
his brother Gardiner Hammond and Mr. Edmands, purchased twelve hundred
and thirt3'-four acres in the Upper Lake precinct, Gardiner Hammond subse-
quently selling his interest in the tract to INIr. Edmands, who now has about
six hundred and forty acres of it. He has made further purchases, his hold-
ings comprising between eight hundred and nine hundred acres. Chosen pri-
marily for its agricultural and horticultural possibilities, this property has
been improved under the ownership of Mr. Edmands with the idea of bring-
ing out all of its advantages, with the result that he has a beautiful country
home and a large acreage whose value is being increased yearly by scien-
tific cultivation. The systematic care expended on the land has been pro-
ductive of effects reaching beyond the immediate reward of good crops, it
MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES 167
has vitalized several branches of fruit culture in the locality and stimulated
other agricultural interests. Mr. Edmands is occupied with the oversight
of his extensive operations as general farmer, stockman, orchardist and viti-
culturist.
Mr. Edmands was born in Massachusetts December 23, 1859, at Newton,
just outside of Boston. His father, also named William O. Edmands, was
a business man of Boston, connected with many substantial enterprises, as
more of his ancestors have been, principally in railway and financial opera-
tions. His mother, whose maiden name was Frances A. Stickney, was born
in Boston, and was also of old New England lineage. She spent her later years
in California, much of the time at Lakeport, and died in August, 1912. William
O. Edmands is the only child of his parents. In his early boyhood he attended
public and private schools in Newton, where he prepared for college. Matricu-
lating at Harvard in 1880, he pursued a course of special scientific study there
for three years. He came to Lake county, Cal., in the summer of 1884, and
was one of the trio of Boston men who invested heavily in lands on the
eastern shore of Clear lake as previously mentioned. His home has been here
ever since. The attractions and possibilities of the location appealed to him
so strongly that he found real pleasure in supplementing nature's gifts with
man's industry, and the ideal conditions he has developed are the outcome
of years of thoughtful care. He has superintended personall}' the planting
and culture of his orchards, vineyards, olive and eucalyptus groves ; the lay-
mg out of drives ; improvements along the lake shore ; cultivation of plow
lands ; and the numerous other details involved in the proper management of
an estate so thoroughly well handled. Mr. Edmands is a fancier of blooded
stock of all kinds. By well-directed energy he has accomplished much to en-
hance the attractions and convenience of his property, and he has not spared
himself in looking after it. The ranch is located on the shores of Clear lake,
about four miles east of Upper Lake.
Mr. Edmands has a splendid residence on a hill overlooking an arm of
Clear lake. There is nothing lacking which contributes to the pleasure or
comfort of the family, and a launch and automobiles make all the local points
easy of access. Mr. Edmands is a true New Englander on the question of
education and in public-spirited support of all projects for the general good.
He has stood firmly with his fellow landowners in Lake c 
