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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2010  with  funding  from 
The  Library  of  Congress 


http://www.archive.org/details/historyofnansemoOOdunn 


OLD  DOMINION  LINE 

Steamships  "MONROE'7'PRINCESS  ANNE'V' JAMESTOWN" 
"HAMILTON"  and  "JEFFERSON." 

Sailing  from  Norfolk  for  New  York  daily,  except  Sunday,  at  7  p.  m. 
Sailing  from  New  York  for  Norfolk  daily,  except  Sunday,  at  3  p.  m. 

NIGHT  LINE  FOR  RICHMOND. 

For  Richmond,  new  steamers  "BERKELEY"  and  "BRANDON" 
leave  Company's  Wharf,  foot  of  Church  Street,  7  o'clock  every  night. 

For  Old  Point  and  Hampton,  steamer  "Luray." 

For  Old  Point,  East,  Ware,  North  (Matthews  and  Gloucester  Coun- 
ties) and  Severn  Rivers,  Steamer  "MOB JACK." 

For  Newport  News  and  Smithfield,  Steamers'  "HAMPTON"  and 
"ACCOMAC." 

For  Nansemond  River  and  Suffolk,  Steamer  "VIRGINIA  DARE." 

Freight  received  at  Company's  Wharf,  Water  Street,  daily  except 
Sunday,  until  5  P.  M. 

Passenger  Tickets  sold  and  Staterooms  reserved  at  Company's  Office 
on  Wharf,  or  at  Union  Ticket  Office,  Main  and  Granby  Streets, 
Norfolk,  Va. 

For  further  information  relative  to  Passenger  or  Freight  Rates,  apply  to 

JOHN  NICHOL,  General  Agent, 
NORFOLK,  VA. 

H.  B.  WALKER,  Vice-Pres.  and  Traffic  Mgr. 
81  BEACH  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 

(See  Daily  Papers  for  Winter  and  Summer  Changes  in  Schedule.) 


ORGANIZED   1869. 

THE  FARMERS  BANK 
OF  NANSEMOND 

Suffolk,  Va, 


Capital      -  Twenty  Thousand  Dollars. 

Surplus  and  Profits  -     Five    Hundred  and    Fifty-five 

Dollars. 

Total  Resources  -         More  than  Two  Million  Dollars. 


With  Long  Experience,  Unsurpassed 
Facilities  and  Increasing  Resources,  the 
Institution  continues  to  offer  its  services 
to  the  people. 


E.  E.  Holland,  G.  W.  Truitt, 

President,  Vice-President, 


Wm.  H.  Jones,  Jr., 

Cashier. 


JAS.  L.  McLEMORE,  President  A.  WOOLFORD,  Cashier 

R.    A.  PRETLOW,  Vice-President  C.  E.  HARGRAVE,  Ass't.  Cashier 


Bank  of  Suffolk, 


SUFFOLK,  VIRGINIA. 


Capital  and  Profits,      -       $  1 62,500.00. 


RESPECTFULLY  SOLICITS  YOUR 
BANKING  BUSINESS. 


Write  for  OUR  Prices 


THE  SUFFOLK  PEANUT  CO. 

SUFFOLK,  VIRGINIA 

JOHN  KING,  J.  B.  PINNER, 

President  Secy.  &  Treas. 


The  Oldest  Peanut  Concern  in  the  Town  of  Suffolk 
The  Largest  Peanut   Town  in 
Virginia 

Six  Railroads    and  One  Steamboat  Line  Give  Us 
Unexcelled  Shipping  Facilities 


•■;* 


Write  for  OUR  Prices 


WOODWARD  &  ELAM  | 


Insurance  and  A 

Surety  Bonds  k 

•"           SUFFOLK,  -    -    VIRGINIA  J 

FRANKLIN,  VA.                SMITHFIELD,  VA.  V 

• • 


Nansemond  River 
Brick  &  Tile  Co. 


'  ^*AVING  abiding  faith   in  the  future  growth  and 
*|f^|    ife  developement  of  Eastern  Virginia,    and  especially 
i*J"   *   J,    of  the  peanut  belt  of   Nansemond   County,   the 
^^$^5^     above  business  was  organized,  and  in    1901   incor- 
porated under  the  laws  of  the  State  of  Virginia : 

Located  upon  deep  water,  accessible  to  all  tidewater 
markets,  from  a  very  small  beginning  the  business  has  become 
one  of  some  magnitude,  its  present  annual  output  being  twelve 
million  building  brick,  in  addition  to  other  products.  The  Com- 
pany is  fortunate  in  owning  what  is,  probably,  one  of  the  most 
valuable  clay  deposits  in  Eastern  Virginia,  it  being  a  peninsular, 
several  hundred  acres  in  extent,  bounded  on  the  east  by  a 
narrow  creek,  south  by  the  Nansemond  River,  west  by  the 
western  branch  of  the  Nansemond,  and  upon  the  north  by  the 
public  highway  leading  from  Suffolk  to  Smithfield.  Upon  this 
public  road  the  Company  have  a  handsome  brick  store,  well 
stocked  with  goods,  and  also  their  General  Manager's  residence: 
Lying  in  the  world's  best  Peanut  territory,  these  lands  have, 
under  the  intelligent  culture  of  their  General  Manager,  who  is 
a  stockholder  in  the  Company,  become  profitable  holdings, 
aside  from  their  value  on  account  of  a  deep  and  strong  "brick 
clay"  subsoil  of  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  in  depth.  With  a 
second  plant  nearly  equipped,  having  sufficient  capacity  for 
fully  doubling  their  output,  unlimited  raw  material,  the  use  of 
the  most  modern  machinery  and  methods,  the  remarkable  in- 
crease in  fertility  of  their  lands,  the  location  of  some  twenty- 
five  families  of  employees  upon  this  property,  and  the  gradual 
but  sure  increase  of  their  merchandising  business,  we  think  the 
Company  may  reasonably  look  to  the  future  with  hope  and 
confidence. 


Handle  the   Best 


PEANUTS 


SUPERB 

JUMBO 

BELLE  OF  WAKEFIELD 

GAMECOCKS  (Fancy) 

DIAMOND  BRAND  (Extra) 


All  Grades  of 


Virginia   oncf  Spanish 
Shelled 

Cleaned  and  Packed  by 

THE   BAIN   PEANUT  CO.,  inc. 

WAKEFIELD,  VIRGINIA 


FACTORIES: 

Wakefield,  Va.  Petersburg,  Va. 

Suffolk,  Va.  Norfolk,  Va. 


Another  Prosperous  Nansemond  County  Enterprise 

Interstate  Fire  Insurance  Co.,  Inc. 
SUFFOLK,  VA. 


Capital 

$131,000.00 

Surplus  to  Policy  Holders 

154,185.87 

Total  Assets     - 

-      163,394.07 

J.  E.  WEST,  President 

G.  W.  TRUITT,  Vice-President 

J.  T.  WITHERS,  Secretary-Trees. 


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INVESTMENTS 

and  General  Insurance 


Kilby  Street, 


SUFFOLK,   -    -  VA. 


: 


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THE 
HISTORY  OF 
NANSEMOND  COUNTY 
VIRGINIA       Th 


BY 
JOS.  B.  DUNN 


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13 


The  first  mention  of  the  name  Nansemond  is  found  in  Smith's 
History  of  Virginia.  In  the  summer  of  1608  Capt.  John  Smith 
with  twelve  companions  came  up  the  river  called  Nansemond  after 
a  tribe  of  Indians  of  that  name.  Smith  and  his  men  were  attacked 
in  the  neighborhood  of  an  island  now  called  Dumpling  Island.      The 


m mw    '•  „.=3^ 


Colonel  Phillip's  Residence  on  Nansemond  River 

main  settlement  of  the  Nansemond  tribe  was  near  the  mouth  of  West- 
ern Branch,  and  the  island  opposite  was  used  as  a  place  for  storing 
their  corn.  The  Nansemond  tribe  numbered  three  hundred  warriors, 
and  their  canoes  filled  with  fighting  men  suddenly  appeared  and  sur- 
rounded the  little  craft  that  held  Smith's  exploring  party.  At  the 
first  volley  of  musketry  the  Indians  leaped  overboard  and  swam  to 
shore.     Smith  promptly  captured  the  canoes  and  was  in  the  act  of 


W.  J.  Lee's  Residence  on  Nansemond  River 

destroying  them  when  the  Indians  from  the  banks  made  signs  of  sur- 
render. They  were  glad  to  purchase  peace  at  the  cost  of  "400  bas- 
kets of  full  corne,"  which  supply  helped  to  relieve  the  hungry  colon- 
ists at  Jamestown.  In  1609  when  affairs  were  growing  desperate  at 
Jamestown  and  starvation  threatened  the  destruction  of  the  colony, 


14 


Capt.  Smith  remembered  the  river  whose  banks  were  oyster  shells 
and  in  whose  midst  was  the  isle  of  plenty.  He  ordered  Capt.  John 
Martin  with  over  a  hundred  men  to  proceed  up  the  Nansemond  river 
and  found  a  permanent  settlement  upon  its  banks.  Martin  went  in 
for  heroic  measures.  He  seized  the  Indian  chief,  captured  the  town 
of  Nansemond,  and  took  for  the  use  of  his  men  the  corn  on  Dump- 
ling Island.  Flushed  with  success  he  grew  careless,  and  the  Indians 
surprised  him  by  a  sudden  attack,  rescued  their  chief  and  carried  off 
the  thousand  bushels  of  corn  that  Martin  had  appropriated.  Martin 
thoroughly  demoralized  by  the  change  of  fortune,  fled  to  James- 
town, leaving  his  men  to  make  the  best  of  the  situation.       Left  with- 


Iion  Bridge,  Everet's  Va. 


out  a  leader,  the  men  returned  to  Jamestown,  and  Smith's  plan  for  a 
city  on  the  banks  of  the  Nansemond  was  abandoned.  The  Indian 
word  Nansemond  means  "fishing-point  or  angle,"  and  was  the  name 
given  by  the  Indians  to  their  town  which  was  situated  in  the  angle 
made  by  the  junction  of  Western  Branch  with  the  main  stream  of  the 
river.  The  tribe  takes  its  name  from  their  chief  settlement  and  the 
liver  is  named  for  the  tribe.  Neither  Smith  nor  Martin  seems  to 
have  gone  further  up  the  river  than  the  point  where  the  stream  di- 
vides. Dumpling  Island,  probably  receives  its  name  very  early,  for 
in  1636  a  grant  to  "a  place  known  as  Dumpling  Island"  is  made  to 
Wm.  Parker.     In  1612  Sir  Thomas  Dale  with  100  men  explored  the 


15 


Nansemond  River  to  its  sources.     At  the  time  of  the  great  massacre 
in  1622  Edward  Waters  and  his  wife  were  captured  by  the  Nanse- 


St.  Paul's  P.  E.  Church,  Suffolk,  Va. 


mond  Indians  and  taken  to  the  mouth  of  that  river,  from  which  they 
seemed  to  have  little  chance  of  escape ;  but  one  day  an  empty  boat  be- 
longing to  some  English  ship  happened  to  drift  ashore,  and  in  their 
rejoicings  over  it  the  Indians  relaxed  their  guard,  and  Waters  and 
his  wife  escaped  in  a  canoe  to  Kiquotan.     The  great  grandson  of 


16 


this  Waters  had  an  only  child,  Sarah,  who  married  David  Meade,  a 
distinguished  citizen  of  Nansemond. 

In  1622  in  retaliation  for  the  part  the  Nansemond  tribe  had  ta- 
ken in  the  massacre  of  the  Colonists,  Sir  George  Geardley  devastated 
the  country  of  the  Nansemonds  with  300  men.  The  massacre  of 
1644  was  again  followed  by  invasions  of  the  Indian  country,  with 
such  success  that  the  power  of  the  neighboring  tribes  was  broken. 
At  the  session  of  the  Assembly,  1644-5,  the  inhabitants  of  the  coun- 
try south  of  James  River  were  ordered  to  make  marches  upon  the 
Indians.     In  March  1646  war  was  again  declared  upon  the  Nanse- 


Washmgtou  Square,  Suffolk,  Va. 

mond  and  adjoining  tribes,  but  within  a  few  months  the  natives  had 
been  so  thoroughly  subdued  that  in  October,  1646,  the  Assembly  re- 
pealed the  acts  prohibiting  trade  with  the  Indians,  for  cutting  down 
their  corn  and  for  making  war  upon  the  Nansemonds. 

From  this  time  the  Nansemond  tribe  gradually  dwindled  away. 
The  tragic  history,  of  this  people  who  gave  their  name  to  our  county 
and  river  affords  a  sad  commentary  of  the  white  civilization  that 
crushed  them.  In  1669  they  had  only  45  fighting  men  left  in  their 
tribe,  and  in  1744  they  were  reduced  to  so  small  a  number  that  they 
could  no  longer  "subsist  of  themselves  by  hunting,  which  is  their 


17 


M.  E.  Church,  Crittenden,  Va. 


18 


chief  support,"  so  they  joined  themselves  to  the  Nottoway  tribe. 
Their  lands  had  dwindled  also,  for  by  a  statute  of  1744  they  were  al- 
lowed to  sell  lands  consisting  of  300  acres  in  the  county  of  Nanse- 
mond.  The  statute  providing  for  the  sale  of  the  Indian  lands  is  in- 
teresting reading,  as  it  furnishes  testimony  of  the  manner  in  which 
the  Indians  gradually  lost  their  foothold  on  the  soil  of  Virginia. 
"Whereas  it  has  been  represented  to  this  General  Assembly  that  the 
Indians  of  the  two  nations  (Nansemond  and  Nottoway),  are  very 
prone  to  drink  spirits  and  other  strong  liquors,  to  a  very  great  ex- 
cess, thereby  giving  ill-disposed  and  dishonest  people  opportunities 
to  make  very  great  advantages  of  them,  by  first  getting  them  in  debt 


Christian  Church,  Suffolk,  Va. 

and  then  taking  their  skins,  money,  clothes  and  ammunition,  by  which 
they  defeat  the  just  trader  from  getting  paid  for  furnishing  them 
with  the  necessaries  of  life;  to  prevent  which:"  Then  follows  a 
provision  prohibiting  the  sale  of  liquors  to  these  Indians  for  anything 
save  ready  money.  But  it  was  too  late  now  to  save  the  race,  and  in 
1791  trustees  are  appointed  to  sell  the  last  remaining  lands  of  the 
tribe,  and  to  use  the  money  from  such  sale  to  support  the  survivors  of 
the  once  mighty  nation  of  the  Nansemonds,  who  "have  become  so 
reduced  in  their  number  as  not  to  exceed  five  persons,  who  through 
old  age  and  bodily  infirmities  are  rendered  unable  to  support  them- 
selves."    There  are  few  traces  left  of  the  ancient  occupants  of  the 


19 

land.  A  few  negroes  boast  of  Indian  blood  in  their  veins  and  some 
years  ago  in  laying  the  foundation  for  a  pavilion  on  a  mound-shaped 
island  in  the  river  just  below  Suffolk  a  number  of  Indian  relics  were 
exhumed,  showing  that  the  place  had  once  been  the  burying-ground 
of  an  Indian  tribe. 

As  early  as  1635  Nansemond  attracted  the  attention  of  settlers. 
Here  as  elsewhere  in  Virginia  the  settlements  clung  to  the  water- 
courses. In  1635  Gov.  West  granted  to  Richard  Bennett  2,000  acres 
on  Nansemond  River  for  importing  forty  persons;  and  to  John 
Slaughter  200  acres  on  Wright's  Creek.  The  patents  to  lands  in  the 
year  1638  refer  to  tracts  situated  on  the  Nansemond  or  Matrevers 
River.  Lord  Matrevers,  son  of  the  Duke  of  Norfolk,  had  received 
a  grant  in  1633  to  30,000  acres  on  Nansemond  River  and  an  effort 
was- made  to  call  the  river  Matravers  (Matrevers)  in  honor  of  the 
English  lord.  The  name  did  not  stick,  however,  and  appears  only 
as  an  alternate  form  in  the  land  patents.  By  1639  the  influx  of 
\  population  had  become  so  large  that  this  section  was  separated  from 
Isle  of  Wight  and  set  apart  as  a  county  under  the  name  of  Upper 
'^Norfolk  County.  Its  first  representatives  in  the  House  of  Burgesses 
were  Randall  Crew,  John  Gookin  and  Tristam  Norseworthy.  A 
large  land-owner  and  prominent  citizen  in  the  new  county  was 
Richard  Bennett.  He  was  a  member  of  the  Governor's  council,  but 
he  was  a  Roundhead  and  gathered  about  him  numbers  of  the  same 
political  and  religious  creed.  In  1641  he  sent  his  brother  to  New 
England  to  request  that  some  Puritan  ministers  be  sent  to  Virginia. 
These  ministers  gained  their  strongest  foothold  in  this  county  where 
a  flourishing  church  numbering  118  members  was  soon  organized 
under  the  care  of  a  minister  named  Harrison,  who  had  formerly  been 
Gov.  Berkeley's  chaplain.  The  rapid  growth  of  the  Independents 
disturbed  the  mind  of  the  authorities  and  active  measures  were  taken 
to  suppress  them.  Religion  and  politics  were  practically  synonymous 
in  those  days  and  Independence  in  religion  spelled  disloyalty  in 
politics.  England  was  in  the  midst  of  the  fierce  struggle  between 
King  and  Parliament,  and  Virginia  was  loyalist  to  the  core.  In 
1648,  a  few  months  before  the  execution  of  Charles  I.,  pressure  was 
brought  to  bear  on  the  Nansemond  Independents  and  their  corelig- 
ionists in  Norfolk  County.  William  Durand  of  Norfolk  County, 
who  was  an  elder  and  a  leader  in  the  movement,  was  banished.  He 
retired  to  Maryland  and  received  a  grant  of  800  acres  of  lands  for 
importing  persons  into  that  colony.  He  is  frequently  confused  in 
the  histories  of  Virginia  with  George  Durand,  who  migrated  from 
Virginia  to  North  Carolina  some  years  later.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Harri- 
son, their  pastor,  was  next  expelled  from  the  colony ;  next  their  other 


20 


Presbyterian  Church,  Suffolk,  Va. 


21 

teachers  were  banished,  and  when  the  congregation  stubbornly  held  to 
the  church  of  their  choice  some  of  them  were  imprisoned.  So  far 
the  council  had  been  unable  to  break  their  spirit,  but  an  order  to 
disarm  all  Independents  having  been  given,  the  spirit  of  resistance 
was  quenched.  A  number  of  these  dissenters  having  been  invited 
by  Gov.  Stone,  Lord  Baltimore's  deputy,  retired  to  Maryland,  and 
are  remembered  as  among  the  founders  of  Anne  Arundel  County 
in  that  State.  Among  those  who  left  were  Richard  Bennett  and 
William  Ayres.  These  refugees  prospered  in  their  new  abode  and 
others  induced  by  their  example  removed  thither.  It  was  not  long, 
however,  before  they  became  dissatisfied  with  the  proprietary  govern- 
ment of  Roman  Catholic  Maryland,  and  they  were  the  leaders  in 
the  fierce  war  waged  between  Protestants  and  Catholics  in  Mary- 
land a  few  years  later. 

In  1642  the  county  was  divided  into  three  parishes  to  be  known 
as  South,  East  and  West.  In  1646  the  name  of  the  county  was 
changed  to  Nansimum.  In  1652  the  Commonwealth  of  England 
sent  a  fleet  to  demand  Virginia's  submission  to  the  new  government 
in  England.  Commissioners  were  appointed  to  receive  the  sub- 
mission of  the  Colony.  One  of  the  commissioners  was  Richard 
Bennett,  who  had  retired  to  England  from  Maryland.  On  the 
reorganization  of  the  Colony  Bennett  was  elected  governor  by  the 
Assembly.  Another  citizen  of  Nansemond,  Edward  Major,  was 
by  the  same  Assembly  elected  Speaker  of  that  body.  At  the  second 
session  of  the  House  held  in  the  same  year  Col.  Thomas  Dew, 
Burgess  from  Nansemond,  was  chosen  Speaker. 

There  was  a  long  dispute  lasting  from  1636  to  1772  concerning 
the  boundaries  between  Nansemond  and  Isle  of  Wight  counties. 
Four  acts  of  Assembly  during  that  period  relate  to  changes  in  these 
boundaries.  The  act  of  1674  is  interesting  as  it  mentions  by  name 
a  citizen  whose  family  since  the  earliest  days  of  the  colony  have 
been  prominent  in  the  county.  After  establishing  fixed  lines  of 
division  it  is  provided:  "Nevertheless  that  the  house  and  cleared 
grounds  of  Capt.  Thomas  Godwin,  who  hath  bin  an  ancient  inhabi- 
tant of  Nanzemund  countie  court,  be,  remain  counted  and  deemed 
in  the  county  of  Nanzemund,  anything  in  this  act  to  the  contrary 
notwithstanding." 

The  names  of  the  parishes  in  the  county  as  South,  East  and 
West  soon  gave  way  to  other  names,  for  in  1680  they  are  referred 
to  as  Upper,  Lower  and  Chicokatuck  (Chuckatuck).  In  1653 
Roger  Green  and  others  living  on  Nansemond  River  received  a 
large  grant  of  land  on  condition  of  their  settling  on  Roanoke  River 
and  on  the  south  side  of  Chowan.  In  the  same  year  Col.  Thomas 
■ 


22 


M.  E.  Church,  Suffolk,  Va. 


23 

Dew  of  Nansemond  and  others  were  authorized  to  explore  the  coun- 
try between  Gape  Hatteras  and  Cape  Fear. 

The  Society  of  Friends  or  Quakers  was  founded  in  1648  by 
George  Fox.  They  increased  very  rapidly.  As  early  as  1656  some 
of  this  sect  arrived  in  Boston,  but  were  sent  back  to  England.  In 
1657  laws  were  passed'  in  Massachusetts  to  prevent  the  intro- 
duction of  Quakers  into  that  Colony,  but  they  flocked  thither 
nevertheless.  Virginia  also  strove  to  keep  them  out  of  her  bounda- 
ries. In  the  wild  enthusiasm  of  the  first  years  of  their  existence 
many  of  the  Quakers  were  fanatics  courting  martyrdom.  They 
mocked  the  institutions  and  rulers  of  the  Colony,  interrupted  public 
worship  and  refused  obedience  to  the  law  of  the  land.  These 
fanatics  gave  to  the  Society  a  bad  name;  and  beginning  with  the 
year  1660  stringent  laws  against  them  were  passed  by  the  Assembly. 
Captains  of  vessels  were  fined  for  bringing  them  into  the  Colony.  All 
of  them  were  to  be  apprehended  and  committed  until  they  should 
give  security  that  they  would  leave  the  Colony.  If  they  returned 
they  should  be  punished,  and  returning  the  third  time  should  be 
proceeded  against  as  felons.  It  was  provided,  however,  that  if  the 
convicted  Quakers  should  give  security  not  to  meet  in  unlawful 
assemblies,  "that  then  and  from  thenceforth  such  persons  shall  be 
discharged  from  all  penalties." 

The  Colony  did  not  interfere  with  the  individual's  religious 
freedom,  unless  he  with  others  combined  against  the  laws  of  the 
lane}.  Even  when  a  member  of  the  House  of  Burgesses  was 
accused  of  being  a  Quaker,  he  was  not  expelled  till  he  had  refused 
to  take  the  oaths  of  allegiance  and  supremacy. 

Notwithstanding  the  efforts  of  the  Assembly,  the  Quakers  in- 
creased and  continued  to  hold  gatherings.  In  1672  George  Fox, 
the  founder  of  the  Society,  visited  Virginia.  In  Nansemond,  which 
had  welcomed  the  Puritan  preachers  and  which  from  1636  had  held 
a  goodly  number  of  dissenters,  Fox  found  a  fruitful  field  of  labor. 
He  had  meetings  "at  Nansemond  River,  where  Col.  Dew  of  the 
Council  and  several  officers  and  magistrates  attended,  and  at  Som- 
erton,  also  at  Widow  Wright's  in  Nansemond  where  many  magis- 
trates, officers  and  high  people  came."  The  effects  of  Fox's  labors 
were  very  marked,  and  a  large  element  of  the  present  citizens  of 
Nansemond  number  Quakers  among  their  ancestors.  Two  brothers 
of  the  name  of  Jordan  became  leaders  in  the  Society  of  Friends  and 
labored  in  England  as  well  as  in  America.  The  Journal  of  one  of 
these  brothers  has  been  published,  and  he  speaks  of  a  visit  to  his 
kinsfolk  in  Nansemond.  Even  the  great  man  of  the  county,  Richard 
Bennett,  fell  under  the  spell  of  Fox,  for  George  Edmonson,  the  com- 


24 


Baptist  Church,  Suffolk,  Va. 


25 

panion  of  Fox,  wrote  of  Bennett:  "He  was  a  solid,  wise  man, 
received  the  truth  and  died  in  the  same,  leaving  two  Friends  his 
executors.  Bennett's  will  dated  in  1674  describing  himself  of  Nan- 
semond  River  was  proved  in  court  April  1675.  He  gives  to  the 
county  where  he  lives  and  has  long  lived  300  acres  of  land,  the 
rents  to  be  received  yearly  by  the  church-wardens  of  the  parish  and 
disposed  of  towards  the  relief  of  four  aged  or  impotent  persons." 

Bennett's  career  was  a  conspicuous  one.  He  was  Burgess  in 
1629  and  in  1631;  Member  of  the  Governor's  Council  from  1642 
to  1648.  He  organized  the  dissenters  in  Nansemond  in  1641.  Many 
of  these  dissenters  were  probably  persons  whose  passage  to  Virginia 
Bennett  had  himself  paid.  In  1648  he  shared  the  exile  of  his 
fellow-religionists  in  Maryland.  He  was  the  first  governor  of  Vir- 
ginia under  the  Commonwealth  1652-1655.  He  was  Agent  for 
Virginia  in  England  in  1656.  In  1658  he  was  again  a  member  of 
the  Governor's  Council  and  continued  a  member  of  that  body  till 
his  death.  In  1660  he  was  one  of  the  three  major  generals  of 
militia.  Bennett  was  an  ancestor  of  General  Robert  E.  Lee.  Two 
other  distinguished  men  of  the  county  were  doubtless  in  sympathy 
with  Bennett's  dissenting  views ;  Edward  Major  and  Thomas  Dew, 
who  represented  the  county  in  the  Assembly.  Each  of  them  in  turn 
occupied  the  Speaker's  chair  while  Bennett  was  Governor.  Dew 
seems  also  to  have  followed  Bennett's  lead  in  sympathizing  with  the 
Quakers  in  his  later  life,  for  we  have  record  of  his  attendance  upon 
the  meetings  of  Fox. 

The  records  of  the  Chuckatuck  meeting-house  published  in  the 
Southern  Historical  Publications  contain  valuable  genealogical  data, 
and  show  how  strong  the  Quaker  sentiment  was  in  the  county 
during  this  period.  The  leading  spirit  among  the  Friends  was 
Thomas  Jordan.  The  sketch  of  him  in  these  records  is  as  follows: 
"Thomas  Jordan  of  Chuckatuck  in  Nansemond  Co.  in  Va.  was  born 
in  ye  year  1634  and  in  ye  year  1660  he  Received  ye  truth  and  A  Bode 
f aithf ull  in  it,  and  in  constant  unity  with  ye  f aithf ull  'friends  thereof ; 
and  stood  in  opposision  against  all  wrong  and  Desatefull  spirits, 
having  suffered  ye  spoiling  of  his  goods  and  ye  improsionment  of 
his  Body  for  for  ye  truth's  sake,  and  continued  in  ye  truth  unto  the 
End  of  his  dayes." 

The  Quakers  were  very  strict  in  their  discipline.  There  is 
repeated  record  of  disputes  about  lands  and  personal  property  being 
settled  by  the  Friends  in  meeting.  Contested  wills  were  also  referred 
to  the  Society  for  settlement.  There  is  mention  in  a  single  line  of  a 
father  publicly  in  meeting  disowning  his  son  for  having  married 
outside  of  the  Society.       Fuller  mention  is  made  of  the  fact  that 


26 


'/■*'*-;f 


IS 


r    5 


M.  E    Church,  Whaleyville,  Va. 


27 

Daniel  Saubourn  on  behalf  of  men's  meeting  in  Chuckatuck  signed 
en  "the  eighth  day  of  the  3d  mth  in  the  year  1701  a  certificate  of 
disownment  against  Tho'  Duke  of  Nansemond  County  for  marring 
of  one  that  was  not  of  us  and  lickwise  going  to  the  hireling  priest." 
The  records  show  that  in  1682  both  Thomas  and  Edmund  Godwin 
were  members  of  the  Chuckatuck  meeting-house.  The  Quakers 
increased  very  rapidly  in  spite  of  the  laws  against  them  and  they 
seem  to  have  been  unmolested,  except  those  who  like  Thomas 
Jordan  refused .  to  pay  their  tithes,  defied  the  court  and  maligned 
the  clergy.  Besides  the  meeting-house  at  Chuckatuck,  there  was  one 
at  Somerton  and  one  in  Suffolk  parish  built  "by  the  high- way  side."' 
The  Godwins  seem  to  have  severed  their  connection  with  the 
Quakers,  for  after  1682  both  Thomas  and  Edmund  Godwin  were 
vestrymen  of  Chuckatuck  parish  and  both  filled  the  office  of  sheriff. 
Col.  Thomas  Godwin  Sr.  was  a  burgess  from  1654  to  1658.  His 
son  of  the  same  name  died  in  1714.    As  the  two  bore  the  same  name, 


Iron  Bridge,  Reed's  Ferry 


and  both  filled  conspicuous  offices  in  the  county  and  Colony  it  is 
often  impossible  .to  determine  which  Thomas  Godwin  is  meant. 
The  change  of  the  county  line  in  deference  to  Thomas  Godwin  in 
1674  doubtless  refers  to  the  elder  Godwin.  The  probability  is  that 
it  was  he  who  was  Speaker  of  the  Assembly  in  1676.  His  son  Thomas 
was  a  member  of  the  defiant  vestry  in  Chuckatuck  that  denied  the 
Governor's  right  of  induction.  He  was  also  Colonel  commandant 
of  militia  and  was  removed  by  Gov.  Nicholson  in  1705.  At  the 
time  of  his  death  in  1714  he  was  presiding  justice  of  the  county 
court.  Thomas  Godwin,  the  third,  was  member  of  the  House  of 
Burgesses  in  1714  and  in  1723,  and  sheriff  in  1731,  1732  and  in 
1734. 


28 

Another  distinguished  man  of  this  period  was  Col.  Thomas 
Milner.  In  1680  he  was  appointed  surveyor  of  Nansemond,  Nor- 
folk and  Princess  Anne  counties.  About  1690  he  made  at  the  request 
of  the  Governor  a  survey  of  the  boundary  line  between  Virginia  and 
North  Carolina.  For  this  service  re  received  fifty  pounds.  He  was 
Lt.  Colonel  of  Militia  and  a  member  of  the  County  Court.  He  was 
clerk  of  the  House  of  Burgesses  but  was  turned  out  of  office  by  the 
Governor  in  1685.  He  was  afterwards  elected  a  member  of  the 
House  and  was  Speaker  from  1691  to  1693. 

In  1703  Gov.  Nicholson,  whose  tyrannical  behavior  involved 
him  in  so  many  quarrels  with  the  Colonists,  incurred  the  hatred  of 
the  citizens  of   Nansemond  by  his   interference  in   county  affairs. 


Iron  Bridge,  Kxit 


According  to  the  statement  of  Commissary  Blair  the  trouble  began 
with  Nicholson's  turning  out  of  office  the  efficient  Clerk  of  the  Court, 
Daniel  Sullivan.  Sullivan  had  voted  and  worked  for  the  election  of 
Capt.  Thomas  Swann  to  the  House  of  Burgesses.  The  Governor 
was  bitterly  hostile  to  Swann  and  in  revenge  for  Sullivan's  espousal 
of  Swann's  cause,  deprived  that  gentleman  of  his  office,  and  appointed 
in  his  stead  a  man  whom  the  court  deemed  wholly  incompetent.  The 
appointment  was  made  by  the  Governor  without  consultation  with 
his  Council,  and  the  court  refused  to  accept  the  new  appointee.  The 
Governor  again  without  consulting  the  Council  immediately  turned 


29 


six  of  the  eight  justices  out  of  office  and  appointed  a  new  court  of 
incompetent  men.  This  court  and  the  new  clerk  managed  the  affairs 
of  the  county  so  miserably  that  there  was  a  general  outcry.  Nichol- 
son's behavior  in  this  matter  was  the  ground  of  one  of  the  charges 
brought  against  him  by  Blair  and  helped  to  bring  about  his  removal 
from  office. 

According  to  the  theory  of  the  Governors  of  Virginia  they  were 
the  representatives  of  the  King  and  hence  patrons  of  all  the  livings 
in  the  Colony.  The  patent  which  gave  to  the  Bishop  of  London 
the  spiritual  oversight  of  the  Church  in  Virginia  had  left  the  right 


Public  School  Building,  Crittenden,  Va. 


of  induction  to  the  livings  with  the  governors.  If  to  this  conceded 
right  of  induction,  the  Vestries  had  granted  the  justice  of  the 
Governor's  claim  of  authority  to  present  to  the  livings,  then  the 
Governor  would  have  been  enabled  to  impose  upon  the  people  any 
ministers  whatever.  The  people  maintained  that  they  and  not  the 
King  or  his  representatives  were  the  patrons  of  the  livings,  and  that 
the  Vestry  as  the  representative  of  the  people  could  alone  present  to 
a  living.  It  is  often  said  that  most  of  the  leading  Virginians  in  the 
Revolutionary  period  got  their  training  for  public  life  in  the  parish 
vestry  meeting.  Certain  it  is  that  Gov.  Nicholson  met  with  a  distinct 
defiance  from  one  vestry  in  Nansemond. 

The  opinion  of  Sir  Edward  Northy,  the  King's  attorney,  up- 
holding the  Governor's  prerogative,  was  sent  to  all  the  vestries  and 
ordered  to  be  recorded  in  the  vestry-books.     The  Vestry  of  Chucka- 


30 


tuck  parish  obeyed  the  Governor's  order  and  placed  the  document  on 
record,  but  added  this  spirited  resolution  to  it : 

"But  as  to  presenting  our  present  or  any  other  minister  for 
induction  are  not  of  opinion  (record  here  is  unintelligible)  but  are 
willing  to  entertain  our  present  minister  upon  the  usual  terms,  as 
formerly  hath  been  used  in  this  Colony." 


Geo.  B.  Robertson's  Residence,  Whaleyville,  Va. 


A  leading  member  of  that  Vestry  was  Capt.  Thomas  Swann, 
and  it  would  be  interesting  to  know  whether  his  action  in  this  matter 
was  the  ground  of  the  Governor's  hositility  to  him. 

In  1728  Commissioners  were  appointed  to  determine  the  divid- 
ing line  between  Virginia  and  North  Carolina.  Col.  Wlliam  Byrd 
has  left  a  description  of  the  running  of  the  dividing  line  in  the  West- 
over  Manuscripts.  He  tells  of  his  visit  to  the  home  of  Col.  Andrew 
Meade  near  the  headwaters  of  Nansemond  River.  We  have  a  vivid 
picture  of  the  prodigal  hospitality  of  those  days.  Col.  Byrd  says 
that  on  leaving,  his  host  insisted  on  sending  with  him  a  cart-load  of 
provisions  to  eat  and  drink.  Byrd  says  that  on  the  journey  through 
the  county  "we  passed  no  less  than  two  Quaker  meeting-houses. 
That  persuasion  prevails  much  in  the  lower  end  of  Nansemond 
county,  for  want  of  ministers  to  pilot  the  people  a  decenter  way  to 
heaven.     The  ill  reputation  of  the  tobacco  in  these  lower  parishes 


31 


makes  the  clergy  unwilling  to  accept  of  them  except  such  whose 
abilities  are  as  mean  as  their  pay." 

In  1734  the  house  of  Christopher  Jackson,  clerk  of  the  County 
of  Nansemond,  was  destroyed  by  fire  and  the  greater  part  of  the 
county  records  were  burned.  Several  acts  of  Assembly  were  passed 
in  this  and  succeeding  years  for  the  relief  of  persons  the  titles  to 
whose  property  were  rendered  insecure  by  the  loss  of  the  records. 

,  Some  time  previous  to  the  year  1731  Chuckatuck  parish  and 
Lower  parish  were  combined  into  one  parish  and  called  Suffolk 
parish.    There  is  no  record  of  the  time  when  such  change  was  made, 


Public  School  Building,  Holland,  Va. 

but  reference  is  made  to  it  in  the  will  of  John  Yeates  dated  Septem- 
ber, 1731.  This  will  is  a  lengthy  and  curious  document.  He  makes 
provision  for  the  maintenance  of  two  schools  built  by  him,  and  for 
the  pay  of  the  teachers.  He  gives  to  the  church  a  communion  ser- 
vice, pulpit  cloth  and  cushion,  a  great  Bible  and  some  theological 
works.  He  bequeaths  to  "my  friends,  the  gentlemen  of  the  Vestry 
living  this  side  of  the  river  a  treat  at  my  house."  He  gives  to  "my 
worthy  friends,  the  worshipful  court  of  Nansemond,  ten  shillings  to 
drink  for  my  sake."  He  is  evidently  still  disgruntled  over  the  com- 
bining of  the  two  parishes  for  he  goes  out  of  his  way  to  take  a  fling 
In  1742  an  act  of  Asembly  was  passed  for  erecting  a  town  at 
Constance's  Warehouse  in  the  County  of  Nansemond.     The  pre- 


32 

amble  to  this  act  shows  that  the  drift  of  population  had  turned 
strongly  towards  the  head  waters  of  the  Nansemond.  At  first  the 
settlements  had  been  mainly  on  the  lower  Nansemond  and  on  West- 
ern Branch. 

"Inasmuch  as  it  hath  been  represented  unto  this  General  As- 
sembly that  great  numbers  of  people  have  lately  settled  themselves 
at  and  near  a  place  called  Constance's  Warehouse  on  the  east  side 
of  Nansemond  River  in  the  County  of  Nansemond  where  the  public 
warehouses  are  built ;  which  place  is  healthful,  commodious  and  con- 
venient for  traders  to  cohabit  in,  and  bring  their  goods  to.     And 


Main  Street,  Holland,  Va. 


that  in  case  a  town  was  laid  out  there  trade  and  navigation  would  be 
greatly  encouraged  and  increased." 

Fifty  acres  of  lands  belonging  to  Jethro  Sumner  (being  a  part 
of  the  estate  of  the  late  Daniel  Sullivan,  Clerk  of  the  County,  which 
land  had  come  to  Sumner  through  his  wife,  Margaret  Sullivan.) 
were  bought  and  laid  off  by  the  County  Surveyor,  John  Milner. 
Trustees  of  the  new  town  were  appointed.  They  were  Lemuel  Rid- 
dick,  Wm.  Baker,  Wm.  Wright,  Edward  Wright,  John  Gregory 
and  Edward  Norfleet.  The  land  was  purchased  for  three  pounds  an 
acre.  The  town  was  called  Suffolk,  though  it  was  not  in  Suffolk 
parish,  the  name  of  the  parish  antedating  that  of  the  town  by  many 


33 


years.  A  reminder  of  the  ancient  name  of  the  settlement  remains 
in  the  tract  of  land  adjoining  the  town  cemetery,  which  is  still  called, 
Constantia,  and  the  house  on  the  place  is  now  used  by  the  town  as  a 
home  for  indigent  negroes. 

We  have  now  reached  a  period  of  the  county's  history  where 
for  the  first  time  records  within  the  county  itself  are  available  for 
information.  The  records  ■.- are  copies  of  the  old  vestry  books  of  / 
Upper  Parish  of  Nansemond,  and  Suffolk  Parish.  The  vestry  book 
of  Upper  Parish  commences  in  1744,  and  that  of  Suffolk  Parish  in 
1749.      So   far   as   is  known,   these  volumes   are  the  only  records 


Hotel  at  Whaleyville,  Va. 

owned  by  the  county  of  events  antedating  the  destruction  of  the 
county  records  in  1866. 

These  old  records  present  a  picture  of  the  life  and  habits  of  the 
people  of  Nansemond  in  early  days,  which,  though  fragmentary,  is 
still  full  of  interest.  Until  the  Revolution,  the  Church  of  England 
was  the  established  church  of  Virginia.  The  clergy  were  inducted 
into  office  by  the  Governors  and  the  church  was  supported  like  any 
other  institution  of  government  by  taxes  paid  by  the  people.  The 
authority  to  present  a  clergyman  was  held  by  a  vestry  of  twelve 
men,  who  were  elected  by  the  people.  The  vestry  were  generally 
the  most  conspicuous  and  influential  members  of  the  community. 
Their  duties  were  not  merely  ecclesiastical,   for  to  them  was   in- 


34 


trusted  the  care  and  support  of  the  poor  of  the  parish  and  the  hold- 
ing of  all  trust  funds  for  such  purposes.  They  appointed  the  pro- 
cession masters,  and  to  them  the  reports  of  all  processionings  were 
made.  They  fixed  the  rate  of  taxation  for  tithes  and, to  them  all 
tithes  were  paid.  The  study  of  these  old  vestry  books  makes  plain 
the  fact  that  the  people  of  Virginia  identified  themselves  with  the 
church  just  as  they  identified  themselves  with  the  government. 
They  were  the  church  just  as  they  were  the  state.  The  parson  was 
their  duly  appointed  minister,  whose  duties  were  well  marked  out 
and   whose   authority   was   carefully   defined.      The   vestries    made 


Bank  at  Whaleyville,  Whaleyville,  Va. 

earnest  efforts  that  the  parish  be  always  supplied  with  a  minister, 
but  every  church  and  chapel  was  provided  with  a  salaried  clerk,  who 
read  the  services  regularly;  and  the  lack  of  a  minister  did  not  pre- 
vent the  congregations  from  attending  services.  Wherever  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  citizens  settled  in  the  county  a  chapel  was  immedi- 
ately erected  and  a  clerk  appointed.  The  people  were  the  church, 
and  the  vestry  the  duly  elected  representatives  of  the  people.  The 
taxes  for  maintaining  the  church  establishment  were  called  tithes. 
Every  male  inhabitant  over  sixteen  years  of  age  was  a  tithable  and 
must  pay  his  part  towards  the  support  of  the  church.  The  rate  of 
taxation  for  tithes  from  1750  to  1800  varies  from  28  to  60  pounds 
of  tobacco  per  poll;  but  as  the  records  show  that  Nansemond  to- 


35 

bacco  brought  only  from  V/z  to  2  pence  a  pound,  the  tax  would 
never  have  been  very  onerous.  Tobacco  was  the  common  currency, 
and  the  minister's  salary  was  16,000  pounds  to  tobacco  yearly.  The 
clerk  of  the  chapel  received  1,000  pounds,  and  in  one  case  during  a 
long  vacancy  in  the  ministry  of  the  parish  the  salary  of  the  clerk  in 
the  parish  church  was  raised  to  2,000  pounds.  The  number  of  tith- 
ables  in  Upper  Parish  in  1744  was  1,139.  There  was  a  church  at 
Chuckatuck,  in  early  days,  near  the  present  site  of  St.  John's,  but 
this  church  was  pulled  down  and  the  present  one  erected  in  1755. 
The  old  Glebe  Church,  or  Bennett's  Creek  Church,  as  it  is  called  in 


Boat  landing,  Suffolk  Wharf 

the  records,  was  erected  in  1738.  These  two  seem  to  have  been  the 
only  churches  in  Suffolk  Parish.  The  lands  along  the  river  and 
western  branch  were  the  first  portions  of  the  county  settled,  but 
after  1700  the  upper  portion  of  the  county  received  a  large  influx 
of  population.  Upper  Parish  outgrew  the  other  parishes,  and  Lower 
Parish  and  Chuckatuck  were  combined  to  form  Suffolk  Parish  about 
1725.  Even  after  this  combination,  Upper  Parish  held  the  majority 
of  inhabitants,  and  in  1744  a  part  of  it  was  added  to  Suffolk  Parish. 
The  first  church  in  Upper  Parish  was  commonly  known  as  the  Old 
Brick  Church.    In  1748  this  church  was  abandoned  as  being  unsafe. 


36 


The  site  of  this  church  is  unknown.  After  the  founding  of  Suffolk 
in  1742,  the  town  church  became  the  parish  church,  but  there  were 
several  chapels  with  organized  congregations  that  were  served  by 
the  minister.  These  chapels  were  at  Somerton,  Cypress,  Holy  Neck 
and  Nottoway.  When  the  boundary  between  Nansemond  and 
Southampton  was  changed  in  1785,  Nottoway  was  put  in  South- 
ampton. 

The  old  vestry  books  furnish  valuable  information  as  to  the 
ancient  citizens  of  the  county.  The  reports  of  the  procession  masters 
give  the  names  of  most  of  the  freeholders  in  the  county.  Some  of 
the  items  entered  upon  the  records  provoke  a  smile.  The  order  for 
the  payment  of  500  pounds  of  tobacco  to  the  doctor  for  "salevating 


Court  House,  Suffolk,  Va. 


Mary  Brinkley  and  keeping  her  salevated"  is  not  the  record  of  per- 
secution, but  of  kindly  care  for  one  of  the  parish  poor.  In  1755  the 
Assembly  passed  a  law  that  every  person  receiving  aid  from  the 
parish  should,  upon  the  shoulder  of  the  right  sleeve,  in  an  open  and 
visible  manner,  wear  a  badge  with  the  name  of  the  parish  cut  either 
in  blue,  red  or  green  cloth ;  and  if  any  poor  person  should  neglect  or 
refuse  to  wear  such  badge,  his  or  her  allowance  should  be  with- 
drawn, or  the  offender  whipped  not  exceeding  five  lashes  for  each 
offence.    This  law  seems  to  have  been  a  dead  letter  in  most  parishes, 


37 


but  it  was  enforced  in  Suffolk  Parish,  at  least  to  the  extent  of  pro- 
viding the  badges  and  making  the  allowance  to  the  poor  conditional 
on  their  wearing  the  badge.  The  provision  in  Yeates'  will  "for  a 
treat  at  my  house  to  my  friends,  the  gentlemen  of  the  vestry,"  was 
not  a  jest,  but  a  recognition  of  the  convivial  habits  of  these  gentle- 
men; for  we  read  in  the  list  of  parish  expenses  an  order  for  the 
payment  "to  Wm.  Johns  for  the  trouble  of  his  house  and  liquor  200 
pounds  of  tobacco."  Men  kept  open  house  in  those  days,  and  the 
decanter  stood  invitingly  in  the  open.  Men  were  free-livers  and  no 
criticism  attached  to  a  man  who  drank  in  his  home  or  in  the  house 


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Masonic  and  Town  Hall,  Chuckatuck,  Va. 


of  a  friend.  The  minister  no  less  than  the  laity  took  his  glass,  and 
did  not  violate  convention.  The  salary  of  the  parson  was  fixed  by 
law  at  16,000  pounds  of  tobacco.  In  Nansemond  this  meant  a  scant 
living,  as  the  land  was  not  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  tobacco,  and 
the  tobacco  here  was  proverbially  poor  stuff.  The  vestries  never 
took  this  fact  into  consideration,  and  neld  to  the  letter  of  the  law. 
But  few  ministers  were  willing  to  undertake  the  task  of  living  on 
from  £50  to  £80  a  year,  and  of  those  who  came  some  were  men  who 
were  unable  to  get  a  parish  elsewhere.  The  result  was  disastrous 
in  several  instances.  In  Upper  Parish,  two  parsons,  Balfour  and 
Lunan,  were  arraigned  by  the  vestry  for  being  too  much  addicted 


38 


to  drink,  and  in  Suffolk  Parish  the  minister  for  many  years  was 
Parson  Agnew,  an  irascible  old  gentleman  who  was  continually  at 
odds  with  the  vestry  and  people.  With  these  exceptions,  however, 
the  ministers  seem  to  have  been  above  reproach,  and  in  one  case  the 
vestry  puts  on  record  its  high  appreciation  of  the  character  and 
services  of  its  minister,  the  Rev.  Henry  John  Burges. 

The  local  institutions  of  the  Colonial  period  present  a  striking 
contrast  to  our  times,  not  only  in  ecclesiastical  but  in  civil  life.  The 
county  court  consisted  of  eight  justices  of  the  peace,  appointed  by 
the  Governor  in  Council.     The  office  of  a  justice  was  one  of  dis- 


Christian  Church,  Holland,  Va. 


tinction,  for  the  court  was  to  consist  "of  eight  of  the  most  able,  hon- 
est and  judicious  persons  in  the  county."  The  office  of  sheriff  der 
volved  upon  the  eldest  justice,  but  could  only  be  held  for  one  year, 
and  passed  in  rotation  to  the  other  justices.  No  justice  to  whom 
the  office  of  sheriff  had  come  in  due  course  was  allowed  to  refuse 
it,  a  heavy  fine  being  the  punishment  for  such  refusal.  The  county 
clerk  was  also  appointed  by  the  Governor  in  council.  A  special  act 
provided  for  the  punishment  of  a  justice  who  should  be  "overtaken 
of  drink  on  court  day." 

As  late  as  1705  the  county  courts  were  compelled  to  provide 
at  every  court  house,  stocks,  pillory  and  a  ducking  stool.  The  act 
providing  for  the  ducking  stool  has  a  plaintive  tone:     "Whereas 


39 


oftentimes  many  brabling  women  often  slander  and  scandalize  their 
neighbors,  for  which  their  poor  husbands  are  often  brought  into 
chargeable  and  vexatious  suites  and  cast  in  great  damages.  Be  it 
enacted  that  in  actions  of  slander  occasioned  by  the  wife  as  afore- 
said, after  judgment  passed  for  the  damages,  the  woman  shall  be 
punished  by  ducking." 

In  the  first  days  of  the  colony  every  man  "fitting  to  bear  arms" 
was  compelled  by  law  to  bring  his  gun  with  him  to  church.  This 
law  gradually  became  a  dead  letter,  as  the  Indians  were  driven  out. 
The  Nansemond  and  Nottoway  tribes  remained  and  were  a  con- 


Public  School  Building,  Suffolk,  Va. 

tinual  menace  to  the  inhabitants  of  Nansemond,  and  the  custom  of 
going  to  church  armed  obtained  in  this  county  long  after  it  was 
abandoned  by  the  other  communities  along  the  seaboard. 

The  vestry  records  state  explicity  that  the  county  court  house 
was  in  Upper  Parish  even  before  the  building  of  Suffolk,  and  the 
reports  of  the  procession  masters  indicate  that  it  was  situated  a  few 
miles  east  of  Suffolk. 

In  1763  George  Washington  visited  the  county  and  explored 
the  Dismal  Swamp  in  the  capacity  of  a  prospector  or  engineer.  In 
his  diary  for  October  of  that  year  he  gives  a  brief  account  of  his 
experiences. 

In    1767    Washington,    together    with    Fielding    Lewis    and 


40 

Thomas  Walker,  obtained  a  grant  of  land  in  the  swamp.  The  rec- 
ord of  the  grant  in  the  land  office  is  as  follows:  "Sept.  10th,  1707. 
In  the  great  Dismal  Swamp.  Beginning  at  a  corner  tree  of  George 
Walker  and  Davis  Meades'  land,  50  acres,  part  thereof  formally 
granted  to  John  Cole,  April  25th  1695,  and  188  acres  as  the  residue 
never  before  granted."  Washington  was  a  stockholder  in  the  Dis- 
mal Swamp  Land  Co.,  whose  property  was  largely  in  the  county  of 
Nansemond.  Two  canals  were  dug  by  this  company;  one  of  them, 
five  miles  long,  bears  the  name  df  Washington ;  and  the  other,  Jeri- 


Bank  of  Holland,  Holland,  Va. 


cho  canal,  derives  its  name  from  the  name  of  the  estate  through 
which  it  passes  near  its  former  junction  with  the  Nansemond  river. 
When  the  trouble  with  Great  Britain  began,  Nansemond 
promptly  organized  its  Committee  of  Safety,  and  this  committee 
was  very  active  in  the  cause  of  the  colony.  Parson  Agnew,  the  min- 
ister of  Suffolk  Parish,  was  a  zealous  supporter  of  the  British 
cause,  and  bitter  in  his  condemnation  of  the  growing  spirit  of  inde- 
pendence. In  the  spring  of  1775  Parson  Agnew  was  observed  to 
visit  actively  among  his  congregation,  urging  them  to  full  attend- 
ance on  a  certain  Sunday.  The  ladies  especially  were  invited.  On  the 
appointed  Sunday  the  church  was  filled  with  women,  while  a  crowd 
of  men  numbering  five  hundred  stood  outside  and  listened  through 


41 

the  windows.  Parson  Agnew  read  the  prayer  for  the  King  and  no 
word  of  disapproval  was  heard.  He  chose  for  his  text,  "Render 
unto  Caesar  the  things  which  are  Caesar's."  His  hearers  pricked 
up  their  ears,  for  they  knew  what  was  coming.  He  began  to  decry 
the  heinous  sin  of  disloyalty  to  government.  Suddenly  Mr.  Wm. 
Cowper,  a  vestryman  and  magistrate,  left  his  seat  in  the  magis- 
trate's pew  and,. mounting  the  steps  of  the  pulpit  ordered  the  speaker 
to  come  down.  "I  am  doing  my  Master's  business,"  said  the  parson. 
"Which  master?"  replied  Cowper;  "your  Master  in  heaven  or  your 
master  over  the  seas?  You  must  leave  this  church  or  I  will  use 
force."  "I  will  never  be  the  cause  of  breeding  riot  in  my  Master's 
house,"  said  the  minister.  Parson  Agnew  then  came  down  from 
the  pulpit  and  walked  down  the  aisle  and  through  the  crowd  at  the 
church  door,  which  parted  to  make  him  a  passage.  He  entered  his 
carriage  and  drove  away.  The  congregation  quietly  dispersed,  and 
Parson  Agnew  never  again  entered  the  church  where  he  had 
preached  for  so  many  years. 

This  ejection  of  the  minister  by  his  own  congregation  caused 
a  great  deal  of  talk  in  the  county  and  throughout  the  colony.  In 
some  quarters  the  people  were  much  criticised  for  their  action.  The 
parson,  though  driven  from  his  pulpit,  continued  his  activity  against 
what  he  considered  the  spirit  of  disloyalty.  He  was  warned  re- 
peatedly by  the  Committee  ofNSafety,  but  he  persisted.  The  matter 
grew  so  grave  that  the  committee  finally,  through  its  secretary,  Mr. 
John  Gregorie,  sent  to  the  Virginia  Gazette  a  recital  of  the  charges 
against  Agnew. 

(Virginia  Gazette,  April  8th,  1775.) 
CHARGES  AGAINST  PARSON  AGNEW. 
"He  asserted  that  it  was  no  hardship  to  be  carried  beyond  sea 
for  crimes  committed  here.  He  declared  when  speaking  of  the  Con- 
gress that  all  such  combinations  and  associations  were  detestable; 
that  the  Congress  did  not  know  what  they  were  about;  that  the  de- 
signs of  the  great  men  were  to  ruin  the  poor  people  and  that  after 
a  while  they  would  forsake  them  and  lay  the  whole  blame  on  their 
shoulders,  and  by  this  means  make  them  slaves.  He  likewise  in- 
formed Mr.  Smith  there  was  an  association  of  the  other  party  up 
the  county  and  the  people  were  signing  it  fast,  that  they  had  dis- 
covered their  error  in  signing  the  present  one.  Upon  the  whole  the 
public  will  plainly  discover  the  principles  this  Rev.  Gentleman  en- 
tertains and  in  what  light  he  views  the  general  resolutions  adopted 
and  entered  into  for  our  relief  from  the  oppressive  hand  of  power. 
Had  this  zealous  advocate  for  despotic  rule  been  as  assiduous  in  the 


/  42 

discharge  of  the  several  duties  of  his  function  as  he  has  been  indus- 
trious in  propagating  false  and  erroneous  principles,  not  only  in 
private  discourse,  but  in  blending  detestable  tenets  in  his  angry  ora- 
tions from  the  pulpit  in  order  to  gain  a  party  in  opposition  to  the 
common  cause  and  thereby  lending  his  aid  to  reduce  the  very  people 
that  gave  him  bread  to  a  state  of  wretchedness,  this  committee  had 
not  been  at  the  trouble  to  examine  the  11th  article  of  the  association 
and  opening  his  conduct  to  the  censure  of  the  world." 

(Signed)  JOHN  GREGORIE.     (C.  C.) 

In  the  journal  of  the  Committee  of  Safety  of  the  colony  there 
is  this  entry: 

"Williamsburg,  April  9th,   1776. 

"The  proceedings  and  sentence  of  the  court  of  commissioners 
for  Nansemond  county,  respecting  the  conduct  of  Rev.  John  Agnew 
and  the  said  Agnew's  appeal  from  the  said  sentence  were  laid  be- 
fore the  committee.     Resolved,  that  this  committee  hear  the  said 


Jackson  Bros.  Co.'s  Mill,  Whaleyville,  Va. 

appeal  tomorrow,  and  Mr.  Agnew  have  notice  to  attend."  The 
minutes  of  the  committee  from  this  point  to  April  29th,  1776,  are 
missing,  so  that  we  have  no  knowledge  of  the  result  of  the  appeal. 
Agnew  left  the  county  some  time  during  this  year  and  became  chap- 
lain of  the  Queen's  Rangers,  a  British  troop.  He  was  taken  pris- 
oner, along  with  his  son,  Stair  Agnew,  during  the  Revolution  and 
carried  to  France. 

In  the  Virginia  Convention  of  1776,  which  gave  to  the  new 
state  its  first  constitution,  which  was  at  the  same  time  the  first 
written  constitution  of  a  free  state  in  history,  and  which  put  forth 
Geo.  Mason's  Bill  of  Rights,  the  county  was  represented  by  Col. 


43 

Willis  Riddick,  who  was  commandant  of  the  county  militia,  and  by 
Wm.  Cowper,  who  had  won  popularity  by  his  action  in  expelling 
Farson  Agnew  from  the  Bennett's  Creek  Church.  In  the  conven- 
tion of  1788,  which  ratified  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States, 
the  county  was  represented  by  Willis  Riddick  and  Solomon  Shep- 
herd. 

After  the  burning  of  Norfolk  in  January,  1776,  numbers  of  the 
houseless  and  distressed  fugitives  from  that  place  fled  to  Suffolk. 
The  people  of  Suffolk  threw  open  their  doors  to  them  and  every 
building  was  soon  crowded  with  them.  When  Col.  Howe,  of  the 
Virginia  forces  retired  to  Suffolk  in  February,  bringing  with  him 
650  men,  the  town  was  threatened  with  serious  distress  by  a  lack 
of  provisions  for  her  many  guests,  but  the  country  folk  came  to  their 
aid  and  all  were  at  last  cared  for. 

During  the  Revolution,  whenever  Chesapeake  bay  happened  to 
be  blockaded  by  the  British,  the  only  direct  foreign  trade  of  the 
colony  was  conducted  by  way  of  Albemarle  sound  and  its  tribu- 
taries. The  depot  of  this  trade  was  at  South  Quay,  in  the  upper 
portion  of  Nansemond  county.  Government  supplies  came  by  this 
route.  These  supplies  were  then  carried  by  wagon  train  to  Suffolk. 
Several  attempts  were  made  by  the  British  to  capture  or  destroy 
these  stores  at  Suffolk,  but  the  vigilance  of  the  Virginia  troops, 
aided  by  the  militia,  prevented  the  British  from  advancing  as  far 
as  Suffolk. 

In  1779  Sir  Henry  Clinton  determined  to  make  an  attack  upon 
Virginia.  He  sent  a  powerful  fleet,  which  anchored  in  Hampton 
Roads,  landed  a  large  force  under  Gen.  Matthews,  which  took  pos- 
session of  Portsmouth  and  Norfolk,  and  committed  extensive  de- 
vastations in  the  surrounding  country.  It  was  on  this  expedition, 
May  13th,  that  Suffolk  was  burned. 

As  soon  as  the  news  of  the  arrival  of  the  British  in  Hampton 
Roads  was  received,  the  militia  of  Nansemond  were  called  to  arms. 
Suffolk  was  appointed  as  the  meeting  place.  Only  200  men  re- 
sponded to  the  call,  and  these  were  poorly  armed.  Few  had  muskets, 
and  still  fewer  ammunition.  These,  however,  they  obtained  from 
Capt.  Bright,  who  commanded  the  letter-of-marque  brig  Mars, 
that  was  lying  in  the  river.  Bright  also  furnished  two  cannon, 
which  were  immediately  mounted  on  cart  wheels.  This  little  army, 
under  Col.  Willis  Riddick,  marched  about  eight  miles  on  the  Nor- 
folk road  and  went  into  camp  on  the  11th  of  May  in  the  field  in 
front  of  Capt.  James  Murdagh's  house.  Three  young  soldiers, 
Josiah  Riddick,  Thomas  Granbury  and  Thomas  Brittle,  were  sent 
on  ahead  to  get  information  of  the  enemy's  advance.     They  were 


44 


captured  by  the  British  just  below  Hall's  Mill,  in  Norfolk  county, 
and  carried  to  New  York,  where  they  were  prisoners  for  a  year 
and  a  half.  The  militia  under  Col.  Riddick,  getting  no  news  from 
the  scouts,  remained  in  ignorance  of  the  approach  of  the  British. 
Two  officers,  Captains  King  and  Davis,  went  off  to  a  tavern  about 
a  mile  from  camp  to  pass  the  night.  While  there,  they  were  sur- 
prised by  the  enemy.  Davis  was  killed,  but  King  escaped  and 
informed  his  comrades  in  camp  of  the  enemy's  proximity.  Col. 
AYillis  Riddick  was  so  confident  that  the  enemy  was  still  at  a  great 


Chapel,  Chuckatuck,  Va. 


distance  that  he  had  retired  to  his  house  for  the  night.  The  com- 
mand developed  upon  Col.  Edward  Riddick,  and  he  ordered  a  re- 
treat to  Suffolk.  Next  morning  two  officers  were  dispatched  to 
learn  the  position  and  force  of  the  enemy.  They  came  in  sight  of 
the  British  four  miles  below  Suffolk,  and  counted  600  infantry. 
The  little  force  of  militia  had  become  demoralized  during  the  night, 
and  only  100  answered  to  the  call  to  arms  next  morning.  Resist- 
ance was  useless,  and  every  man  was  told  to  look  out  for  himself. 
Some  delayed  long  enough  to  gather  their  property  together,  only 
to  be  captured  by  the  British;  the  rest  escaped.  The  royal  troops 
entered  the  town  and  set  fire  to  the  buildings.     The  court  house, 


45 

the  clerk's  office,  with  all  the  county  records,  and  many  other  build- 
ings were  destroyed.  The  government  stores  were  captured.  Sev- 
eral hundred  barrels  of  tar,  pitch,  turpentine  and  rum  were  on  the 
wharves  awaiting  shipment.  The  heads  of  the  barrels  were  knocked 
in  and  their  contents  poured  into  the  river  and  then  set  on  fire. 
The  wind  and  tide  carried  the  burning  tar  and  pitch  across  the 
river  to  the  wide  marshes,  and  soon  the  sheet  of  fire  extended  for 
■many  miles. 

During  the  next  two  years  Nansemond  had  good  cause  to 
remember  the  British.  Gen.  Tarleton,  returning  from  his  famous 
raid  and  attempt  to  capture  the  legislature,  joined  the  royal  troops 
•encamped  at  Suffolk.  Some  time  during  1781  a  detachment  of 
British  troops  under  Capt.  Saunders  came  up  from  Portsmouth, 
crossed  the  river  at  Sleepy  Hole  and  carried  off  horses  and  other 
property,  and  returned  by  way  of  Suffolk.  Lord  Cornwallis,  hav- 
ing crossed  the  James  from  Williamsburg,  marched  through  Nanse- 
mond, crossing  the  river,  by  the  Sleepy  Hole  ferry.  Among  the 
British  troops  who  were  at  Suffolk  during  this  year  were  the 
Queen's  Rangers,  of  which  troop  Parson  Agnew  was  chaplain, 
and  in  which  his  son,  Stair  Agnew,  was  a  captain. 

After  the  destruction  of  Suffolk  by  the  British  an  act  of  as- 
sembly authorizes  the  justices  of  the  county  to  hold  court  "at  such 
convenient  place  as  they  shall  appoint"  until  a  new  court  house 
could  be  erected.  Tradition  points  to  a  spot  adjoining  the  parish 
church  yard  in  Chuckatuck  as  the  ancient  site  of  a  county  clerk's 
■office.  As  the  British  were  in  possession  of  the  region  around 
Suffolk  for  two  years,  it  may  be  that  the  court  house  and  clerk's 
office  were  moved  to  Chuckatuck  during  that  period. 

In  1778  David  Barrow,  pastor  of  the  Mill  Swamp  Baptist 
church  in  Isle  of  Wight,  and  Mr.  Mintz,  another  Baptist,  preached 
by  invitation  at  the  house  of  a  gentleman  who  lived  on  Nansemond 
River  in  Lower  Parish.  A  platform  was  erected  and  a  crowd 
assembled.  After  the  expulsion  of  Agnew,  the  parish  church  re- 
mained vacant,  though  the  vestry  had  advertised  for  a  minister. 
With  the  exception  of  the  gatherings  at  the  two  Quaker  meeting 
bouses,  the  parish,  for  three  years,  had  had  no  preacher  in  their 
preaching  of  the  two  Baptists  stirred  up  some  ill-feeling,  and  a 
midst,  tho'  the  clerk  still  read  the  services  in  the  church.  The 
crowd  of  about  twenty  men  determined  to  break  up  the  meeting. 
They  jeered  and  sung  songs,  and  finally  captured  Barrow  and 
Mintz  and  carried  them  to  the  river  and  ducked  them.  Barrow 
was  the  chief  sufferer,  as  they  thrust  his  face  down  into  the  mud 
of  the  river.     Mintz,  who  had  given  less  occasion  for  ill  feeling, 


46 


was  let  off  more  easily.  The  affair  was  evidently  the  outcome  of 
the  reckless  mood  of  a  crowd  of  young  rowdies,  who  resented  the 
preacher's  criticism  of  them.  Only  the  fevered  imagination  of  a 
pious  chronicler  could  make  it  appear  as  a  part  of  a  systematic  per- 
secution by  the  established  church.  The  first  Baptist  church  in  the 
county  was  Western  Branch  church,.  It  was  at  first  but  a  mission 
of  the  Mill  Swamp  church.  The  date  of  its  founding  is  uncertain. 
In  1787,  nine  years  after  his  unpleasant  experience  in  Nansemond 
River,   Mintz  returned  to  the  scene  of  his  former  labors  and  or- 


County  Clerk's  Office,  Suffolk,  Va. 


ganized  Shoulder's  Hill  church.  The  sentiment  of  the  community 
had  condemned  the  act  of  rowdyism  and  Mr.  Mintz  met  with  much 
encouragement.  A  strong  church  was  soon  established.  The  church 
building  was  finally  sold  and  another  built  at  Sycamore  Hill,  in  Nor- 
folk county. 

In  1779  Asbury,  the  great  leader  of  Methodism  in  Virginia,, 
labored  in  Nansemond.  He  was  accorded  a  warm  welcome.  In 
his  diary  for  1779  Asbury  mentions  that  he  preached  in  "the  great 
preaching  house  at  Nansemond."  This  preaching  house  had  been 
converted  from  a  store  into  a  church.  The  established  church  was 
sadly  crippled  by  the  Revolution.  A  few  of  its  ministers  had  re- 
mained loyal  to  the  British  government;  others  were  forced  into 
secular  pursuits  in  order  to  live;  some  entered  the  American  army. 


47 

Of  the  ninety  clergymen  in  Virginia  when  the  Revolution  began 
hardly  more  than  twenty  were  in  charge  of  parishes  when  the 
war  closed.  The  Church  of  England  shared  the  hatred  heaped 
upon  all  things  English  in  name  or  character.  The  vestry  who  had 
been  the  twelve  great  men  of  the  parish  and  had  excited  the  envy 
of  the  less  fortunate,  became  also  objects  of  open  dislike.  The 
vestry  levied  the  tithes,  and  the  agitation  against  the  church  had 
its  economic  as  well  as  social,  religious  and  political  significance. 
Every  force  in  the  colony  was  against  the  church  and  even  those 
who  loved  her  felt  that  the  times  were  hopelessly  against  her.  The 
church  in  many  counties  became  extinct.  In  Nansemond  the  church 
still  held  to  the  parish  churches  at  Bennett's  Creek,  Chuckatuck 
and  at  Suffolk.  The  church  in  Suffolk  seems  to  have  been  badly 
injured  during  the  period  of  the  British  occupation.  An  effort  to 
raise  funds  by 'Subscription  for  repairs  in  1791  failed,  and  the  church 
gradually  fell  to  pieces.  It  was  pulled  down  in  1820  and  the  bricks 
sold.  The  church  at  Bennett's  Creek  was  in  a  dilapidated  condition 
as  early  as  1812,  but  was  remodeled  and  repaired  in  1854.  The 
chapels  in  Upper  Parish  passed  out  of  the  possession  of  the  church 
after  the  Revolution.  The  people  in  the  neighborhood  of  these 
churches  being  without  a  minister,  offered  the  buildings  to  the 
Methodist  preachers,  who  were  very  active  in  missionary  work.  Cy- 
press chapel  became  a  Methodist  church.  This  church  was  in  the 
circuit  of  the  Rev.  James  O'Kelly,  an  eloquent  and  zealous  Metho- 
dist preacher.  In  1793  O'Kelly,  with  several  other  ministers,  se- 
ceded from  the  Methodist  church  and  organized  the  Republican 
Methodists.  His  Cypress  chapel  congregation  went  with  him.  In 
1801  the  name  of  the  new  church  was  changed  to  the  Christian 
church.'  Holy  Neck  chapel  has  a  similar  history.  Some  time  about 
1800  a  meeting-house  was  built  in  Suffolk  by  popular  subscription. 
This  meeting-house  stood  on  the  present  site  of  the  cemetery.  It 
was  free  to  all  who  desired  to  use  it.  Baptists,  Methodists,  Episco- 
palians and  O'Kellyites  all  held  services  there. 

By  an  act  of  legislature  all  glebe  lands  belonging  to  the  estab- 
lished church,  except  those  lands  which  had  been  a  private  dona- 
tion, were  ordered  to  be  sold  and  the  proceeds  turned  over  to  the 
overseers  of  the  poor.  The  glebe  in  Upper  Parish  passed  from  the 
hands  of  the  church,  but  when  the  overseers  of  the  poor  claimed  the 
glebe  in  Suffolk  Parish,  Parson  Jacob  Keeling  fought  the  case  in 
the  court,  proved  the  fact  that  it  had  been  a  private  gift  and  won  his 
case.  The  valuable  Glebe  farm  is  still  held  by  the  trustees  of  the 
Episcopal  church  in  this  parish. 

The  county  passed  through  a  long  period  of  agricultural  de- 


48 

pression  from  1820  to  1835.  The  population  was  almost  at  a 
standstill  during  these  years.  The  chief  industries  of  the  county 
were  the  manufacture  of  tar,  turpentine  and  staves.  The  Dismal 
Swamp  was  the  largest  source  of  revenue.  In  1835  three  mil- 
lion shingles  were  brought  down  the  canals.  It  was  about  1835 
that  the  farmers  began  to  utilize  the  marl  that  is  so  widely  dis- 
tributed. An  immediate  improvement  was  manifested.  Indian  corn 
remained  for  a  long  time  the  staple  product.  The  county  fur- 
nished its  quota  of  soldiers  in  the  war  of  1812  and  some  of  its 
citizens  fought  in  Mexico,  but  during  the  period  from  1835  to  1860 


. 


Putlic  School  Building,  Whaleyville,  Va. 

the  county  enjoyed  a  normal  development  in  the  midst  of  unevent- 
ful times. 

Looking  back  upon  those  days  the  words,  "Blessed  is  the  land 
that  has  no  history,"  seem  something  more  than  a  jest,  for  the  days 
when  history  was  being  made  within  her  boundaries  have  ever  been 
days  of  suffering  and  distress  to  our  citizens.  During  the  time  of 
peace  and  quiet  the  county  still  took  an  interest  in  military  affairs. 
The  malitia  was  well  organized.  The  Nansemond  malitia  composed 
the  59th  Regiment.  In  1844  Col.  Hugh  H.  Kelly  was  Col.  Comd't, 
and  Wiley  Parker,  Jr.,  R.  R.  Smith,  E.  D.  B.  Howell,  Nathaniel 
E.  Pruden,  John  Oberry  and  Edmund  Riddick  captains  of  light 
infantry.  Nansemond  also  had  a  company  of  light  artillery  and 
one  or  more  companies  of  cavalry.  The  Nansemond  cavalry  was 
commanded  in  1849  by  Capt.  B.  D.  Smith.  In  that  year  Capt. 
Smith  petitioned  the  legislature  for  new  arms   for  his  command. 


49 

This  petition  was  granted,  and  when  this  company  entered  the  ser- 
vice of  the  Confederacy  and  became  Company  I  of  the  13th  Va. 
Cavalry  they  carried  into  service  the  old  flint  and  steel  pistols 
granted  to  the  company  in  1849. 

Muster  day  was  a  great  day  in  the  county,  but,  unfortunately, 
there  was  no  chronicler  of  the  doings  on  the  muster-ground.  Only 
dim  legends  survive  of  the  revels  and  combats  of  the  green  where 
many  a  political  aspiration  first  voiced  its  desire,  and  where  the 
acknowledged  victor  of  many  a  neighborhood  fight  thirsted  for  new 
glory  as  champion  of  the  county.  The  muster-ground  was  situated 
about  three  miles  southwest  of  Suffolk.  The  event  that  stands 
out  during  this  period  was  the  great  fire  that,  in  1837,  nearly  de- 
stroyed the  town  of  Suffolk.  The  court  house  and  jail  were  burned, 
but  the  newly  erected  clerk's  office  escaped.  About  130  houses  were 
burned.  In  1849  the  first  newspaper  in  the  county  was  published. 
This  paper  was  the  Suffolk  Intelligencer.  Its  editor  was  John  R. 
Kilby,  and  it  was  Whig  in  politics. 

Among  the  legends  of  the  county  are  stories  of  runaway  slaves 
wrho  had  fled  to  Dismal  Swamp,  and  lived  there  for  many  years  in 
a  state  of  almost  complete  savagery.  In  the  Virginia  convention 
which  passed  the  ordinance  of  secession,  the  county  was  repre- 
sented by  John  R.  Kilby.  Virginia's  call  to  her  sons  to  come  to 
the  defense  of  her  honor  met  with  a  quick  and  hearty  response  in 
Nansemond.  Nine  companies  entered  the  Confederate  service  from 
the  county. 

Prior  to  the  evacuation  of  Norfolk,  May  10th,  1862,  Suffolk 
was  occupied  by  the  Confederate  troops.  After  the  fall  of  Norfolk 
the  Confederates  withdrew  to  the  other  side  of  Blackwater  River. 
On  May  12th,  1862,  Col.  Dodge's  N.  Y.  Cavalry  rode  into  Suffolk 
and  took  possession.  A  large  force  of  Federals  soon  arrived  and 
encamped  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  town.  In  September  Gen. 
Peck  assumed  command  of  the  Federals  and,  fearing  an  attack 
from  the  Confederates,  who  were  massing  troops  beyond  the  Black- 
water,  commenced  to  throw  up  entrenchments.  Every  preparation 
was  made  for  a  prolonged  siege.  In  his  official  report  Peck  states 
that  "ten  miles  of  batteries,  covered  ways  and  rifle-pits  have  been 
thrown  up.  Most  of  the  artillery  is  protected  by  embrasures;  the 
parapets  are  from  12  to  15  feet  in  thickness,  while  the  covered  ways 
are  from  8  to  10  feet."  Several  gun-boats  arrived  and  lay  in  the 
Nansemond  to  assist  in  the  defense  of  the  Federal  position.  About 
17,000  troops  were  in  Peck's  command.  On  Nov.  14th,  1862,  there 
was  a  skirmish  at  Providence  church  between  a  party  of  300  Con- 


50 

federates  under  Col.  Claiborne  and  the  N.  Y.  Mounted  Rifles.  The 
Confederates  were  forced  to  retire  to  Blackwater. 

In  the  spring  of  1863  Gen'l  Longstreet,  then  in  command  of 
the  forces  at  Petersburg,  crossed  the  Blackwater  River  with  the 
double  purpose  of  obtaining  forage  and  provisions  from  Nansemond, 
Isle  of  Wight,  and  adjacent  portions  of  North  Carolina,  and  of  mak- 
ing a  demonstration  against  Suffolk  with  a  view  of  preventing  the 
forces  there  from  joining  Gen.  Hooker's  army,  which  Gen.  Lee 
was  trying  to  draw  into  battle.  On  April  11th,  1863,  Longstreet 
advanced  upon  Suffolk.  There  was  a  skirmish  on  South  Quay  Road 
and  the  Federal  pickets  were  driven  back.  Next  day  there  were 
skirmishes  on  the  Edenton,  Providence  Church  and  Somerton  roads. 
The  Confederates  pushed  on  to  the  north  bank  of  the  Nansemond, 
and  planted  a  battery  near  the  Norfleet  house,  a  few  miles  below  Suf- 
folk. The  battery  at  Norfleet's  opened  fire  on  the  gun-boats;  and 
disabled  the  Monmouth  Washington  and  the  West-End.  They 
drifted  on  the  flats  but  were  towed  off  by  the  Stepping  Stones,  and 
fell  down  the  river.  Another  Confederate  battery  was  planted  at 
Hill's  Pt.  at  the  mouth  of  Western  Branch. 

On  April  19th  Lieutenant  Lamson  of  the  Federal  navy  sug- 
gested and  successfully  executed  a  plan  for  taking  Huger's  Bat- 
tery at  Hills  Pt.  by  surprise.  A  storming  party  of  500  landed 
and  attacked  the  fort  in  the  rear.  The  Confederate  infantry  in 
the  neighborhood,  under  command  of  Gen.  French,  had  failed  to 
establish  a  picket  line,  and  Capt.  Stribling,  who  was  in  command 
of  Huger's  Battery,  was  ignorant  of  the  approach  of  the  storming 
party  until  they  were  close  on  the  fortifications.  The  battery  had 
been  hastily  constructed  at  night,  and  the  guns  faced  the  river  and 
could  not  be  turned  inland.  The  battery  was  captured  and  125 
made  prisoners.  On  April  23rd  there  was  a  skirmish  at  Chucka- 
tuck.  Next  day  the  Federals  made  two  attacks  on  the  Confederate 
picket  lines  south  of  Suffolk  and  there  was  brisk  fighting  for  a 
time,  but  the  casualties  were  slight.  On  May  3rd  Longstreet  be- 
gan to  withdraw  his  forces  and  retire  to  his  old  lines  beyond 
Blackwater,  and  the  siege  of  Suffolk  was  over.  There  was  skir- 
mishing that  day  near  Hills  Pt.,  at  Reid's  Ferry  and  Chuckatuck, 
but  they  were  all  small  affairs.  The  main  purpose  of  Longstreet's 
move  had  been  accomplished,  though  his  correspondence  with  Gen. 
Lee  and  the  Secretary  of  War  make  plain  that  he  was  very  anx- 
ious to  make  an  attack  on  Suffolk.  The  presence  of  the  gun- 
boats in  the  Nansemond  made  it  impossible  to  ,  flank  the  enemy, 
and  Longstreet  persistently  urged  the  Confederate  authorities  to 
send  the  Confederate  gun-boat  Richmond  down  the  James  to  Nanse- 


51 

mond  River.  The  obstructions  in  the  James  prevented  the  send- 
ing of  the  Richmnod,  and  Longstreet  wrote  to  Lee  that  while 
he  thought  that  he  could  certainly  take  the  works  at  Suffolk  by 
assault  that  it  would  probably  be  a  the  cost  of  3,000  men,  and 
that  the  game  was  not  worth  the  candle.  In  this  opinion  Gen. 
Lee  concurred,  adding:  "If  you  were  to  capture  Suffolk,  I  could 
not  spare  men  to  garrison  it." 

One  event  of  the  siege  of  Suffolk  was  so  tragic  that  in  the  mem- 
ory of  old  inhabitants  it  still  stands  out  as  of  peculiar  sadness, 
^ven  in  the  midst  of  the  anguish  of  those  terrible  days  of  civil 
war.  This  incident  was  the  death  of  Mrs.  Geo.  R.  Smith,  the 
wife  of  a  prominent  citizen,  whose  home  was  about  a  mile  from 
Suffolk. 

On  April  13th  the  Federal  pickets  on  the  Somerton  road  were 
driven  in  by  a  force  of  Confederate  infantry  and  cavalry.  Long- 
street's  artillery  then  opened  on  the  Federals,  and  immediately  the 
guns  from  Fort  Union,  Fort  Nansemond,  and  Fort  McClellan 
responded.  The  Federal  shells  riddled  the  residence  of  Mr.  Smith, 
and  he  and  his  family  were  forced  to  seek  shelter  in  the 
cellar  of  an  outhouse.  The  Federals  sent  out  a  party  of  skir- 
mishers under  Col.  Foster.  They  posted  sharpshooters  in  a  small 
house  some  distance  from  the  main  dwelling,  and  established  a 
line  of  pickets  along  the  lanes  in  the  front  and  rear  of  the  house. 
Col.  Magruder  ordered  a  force  of  Confederates  to  dislodge  the 
sharpshooters.  They  were  driven  out  and  the  Federal  picket  line 
forced  back  to  the  woods  in  the  rear  of  the  dwelling.  The  fighting 
was  all  around  the  house  in  which  the  Smith  family  had  taken 
refuge ;  and  they  thought  it  best  to  seek  shelter  in  the  woods.  They 
had  almost  reached  the  woods  when  Mrs.  Smith  was  struck  by  a 
bullet  and  bled  to  death  before  medical  aid  could  be  obtained.  So 
active  was  the  skirmishing  for  the  next  few  days  that  the  four  little 
children,  one  of  them  an  infant,  were  compelled  to  remain  in  the 
woods  from  Monday  until  Thursday.  It  was  impossible  to  deter- 
mine whether  the  party  was  fired  on  by  the  Federals,  or  whether 
the  fatal  shot  came  from  the  advancing  Confederates. 

During  the  Federal  occupation  of  Suffolk  the  civil  govern- 
ment of  the  county  was  practically  suspended.  The  first  session 
of  the  County  Court  was  held  in  South  Quay  church  on  Feb- 
ruary 8th,  1864.  It  was  not  until  August,  1865,  that  the  court 
again  held  its  sessions  at  the  court  house  in  Suffolk.  During  the 
war  the  county  clerk,  Mr.  Peter  Prentis,  was  arrested  by  the  Fed- 
eral authorities  and  imprisoned  at  Point  Lookout.  Fearing  lest 
the  county  records  might  be  destroyed,  they  were  carried  to  Norfolk 


52 

and  deposited  in  the  Customs  House.  The  records  were  returned 
to  Suffolk  at  the  close  of  the  war.  On  the  night  of  February  7th, 
1866,  the  clerk's  office  caught  fire  and  was  totally  destroyed.  For 
the  third  time  in  the  history  of  the  country  the  official  records  were 
burned.  The  loss  of  these  records  has  made  the  task  of  the  his- 
torian a  hard  one,  and  explains  the  fragmentary  character  of  the 
history  of  a  community  that  played  an  important  role  in  the  early 
days  of  the  colony  and  state.  Nansemond  deserves  a  fitter  tribute 
than  the  broken  narrative  compiled  from  a  hundred  different  sources. 

The  county  was  in  possession  of  the  Federals  for  nearly  three 
years,  and  her  resources  were  exhausted  by  the  support  of  an  im- 
mense army  of  her  foe  quartered  in  her  midst. 

The  meat  of  the  peanut-fed  hog  is  highly  prized  in  all  markets. 
South,  only  the  quiet  of  desolation.  Gradually,  however,  there 
was  evidence  of  a  renewed  life,  and  for  many  years  now  the  county 
has  been  excedingly  prosperous.  With  the  development  of  her 
agricultural  resources  has  come  the  enhanced  value  of  farmings 
lands,  the  building  of  comfortable  farm  houses  and  the  improve- 
ment of  stock.  This  prosperity  of  the  farmers  has  aided  in  large 
measure  in  the  upbuilding  of  the  town  of  Suffolk. 

Suffolk  is  a  progressive  town  of  7,000  inhabitants.  Six  rail- 
roads enter  the  town,  and  it  is  the  terminus  of  the  Suffolk  &  Caro- 
lina Ry.  Suffolk  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  of  Nansemond  River,. 
and  ships  drawing  fourteen  feet  of  water  can  enter  its  port.  It 
has  varied  and  very  extensive  factories  and  manufacturing  plants. 
Suffolk  is  the  largest  peanut  market  in  the  world.  Seven  large 
factories  for  the  cleaning  and  shelling  of  peanuts  have  an  annual 
output  of  more  than  three  million  dollars.  '  It  has  three  banking 
establishments.  One  of  these  banks  has  the  peculiar  distincion  of 
ranking  first  in  the  list  of  state  banks  in  the  United  States  in 
respect  to  the  relation  of  capital  and  surplus. 

Nansemond  county  is  35  long  and  19  miles  wide,  extending 
from  Hampton  Roads  on  the  north  to  the  North  Carolina  line  on 
the  south,  and  contains  393  square  miles.  There  is  striking  variety 
of  soil  within  the  county,  the  heavy  black  soil  of  the  reclaimed  lands 
along  the  swamp,  the  wide  stretch  of  sandy  loam  with  clay  sub- 
soil that  responds  readily  to  fertilization  and  the  rich  alluvial  lands 
along  the  river.  Corn,  cotton  and  peanuts  are  widely  and  suc- 
cessfully cultivated.  The  lower  portion  of  the  county  is  largely 
devoted  to  truck  farming.  Vast  quantities  of  potatoes,  cabbage, 
kale,  peas,  beans,  beets,  squashes,  cucumbers,  spinach,  melons  and 
berries  are  raised  here.  The  upper  portion  of  the  county  is  the 
ideal  soil  for  peanuts,  which  is  a  sure  and  exceedingly  profitable 


53 

crop.  The  vines  of  the  peanut  afford  forage  for  the  cattle,  and 
the  nuts  that  remain  in  the  earth  when  the  crop  is  dug  afford 
the  best  possible  food  for  the  numbers  of  hogs  that  are  raised. 
The  merit  of  the  peanut-fed  hog  is  highly  prized  in  all  markets. 
The  peanut  itself  commands  a  good  price  and  its  cultivation  has 
largely  increased  the  wealth  of  the  community.  The  average  price 
for  improved  land  is  $25  an  acre,  but  there  are  still  large  tracts 
that  can  be  bought  for  less  that  need  only  the  expenditure  of  small 
capital  and  slight  labor  to  transform  them  from  profitless  old  fields 
to  smiling  gardens. 

An  increasing  industry  in  the  county  is  the  utilization  of  the 
vast  clay  beds  for  the  manufacture  of  brick.  This  clay  is  of  the 
finest  quality  and  is  widely  distributed.  It  varies  in  color  from  red 
to  blue.  The  depth  ranges  from  four  to  twenty  feet  and  is  excellent 
material  for  the  manufacture  of  red  or  gray  building  brick,  tiles, 
terra  cotta,  and  pressed  brick.  There  are  large  deposits  all  over 
the  county,  mostly  underlaid  with  sand  and  with  marl  beneath  this. 

The  county  has  within  her  bounds  a  source  of  wealth  as  yet 
unutilized.  Inexhaustible  deposits  of  marl  are  scattered  widely. 
With  the  increasing  demand  for  cement  in  building,  this  marl  will 
some  day  find  a  discoverer.  A  large  cement  concern  has  already 
bought  an  extensive  marl  deposit  near  Chuckatuck. 

The  Nansemond  River,  besides  affording  to  the  county  a  speedy 
and  cheap  means  of  transportation,  adds  to  the  wealth  of  its  citi- 
zens by  the  fish  and  oyster  industries.  The  Nansemond  River 
oyster  compares  favorably  with  the  best  products  of  the  tributaries 
of  the  Chesapeake,  and  the  growing  demand  for  these  oysters  is 
indication  of  the  public's  recognition  of  the  fact. 


55 

THE  DISMAL  SWAMP. 

When  Col.  Wm.  Byrd,  in  1728,  gave  to  the  great  morass  that 
stretches  for  fifteen  miles  through  Virginia  and  twenty-five  miles 
into  North  Carolina  the  name  of  Dismal  Swamp,  he  did  a  lasting 
injury  to  this  whole  section  of  country. 

Viewed  from  the  standpoint  of  an  engineer  whose  duty  it  was 
to  run  a  line  through  the  whole  width  of  its  vast  area,  it  did,  no 
doubt,  present  a  dismal  prospect,  but  to  the  traveler  or  explorer  of 
today  the  swamp  is  a  place  of  unsurpassed  beauty  and  of  never 
ending  variety, of  interest  and  charm;  while  to  the  lumberman  and 
agriculturist  it  furnishes  a  field  of  profitable  investment  that  has  as 
yet  been  but  dimly  appreciated.  The  statements  contained  in  this 
narrative  in  regard  to  the  Dismal  Swamp  are  based  upon  the  reports 
of  scientific  experts  employed  by  the  U.  S.  Government  to  conduct 
the  investigations,  and  their  published  reports  read  like  the  stories 
of  men  returned  from  a  visit  to  fairy-land.  The  isothermal  line 
showing  where  northern  climate  ends  and  southern  begins,  with  the 
extremes  in  temperature  of  neither,  runs  through  Nansemond  Co. 
skirting  the  swamp.  The  variety  of  flowers  is  therefore  very  great 
and  the  whole  swamp  in  the  springtime  presents  the  appearance  of 
a  vast  conservatory  of  rare  and  beautiful  plants.  About  sixty-five 
thousand  acres  of  Dismal  Swamp  are  in  the  county  of  Nansemond. 
Two  canals  within  the  county,  Jericho  and  Washington,  pierce  the 
swamp  and  meet  at  Lake  Drummond.  The  canals  were  dug  by  the 
Dismal  Swamp  Land  Co.  more  than  a  century  ago,  and  cargoes  of 
juniper  and  cypress  have  been  freighted  through  these  channels 
during  that  long  period.  In  the  center  of  the  swamp  is  a  lake  almost 
circular  in  shape  and  about  three  miles  is  diameter.  Lake  Drum- 
mond, as  it  is  called,  derives  its  name  from  a  daring  hunter  who, 
with  three  companions,  ventured,  in  the  early  days,  into  the  recesses 
of  the  great  unknown  morass.  His  companions  lost  their  way 
and  perished,  and  Drummond  alone  returned  to  tell  the  tale  of  the 
beautiful  lake  that  lay  hid  away  in  the  forest  of  juniper  and  cypress. 
The  origin  of  this  lake  is  itself  a  matter  of  curious  interest.  Its 
surface  is  twenty-two  feet  higher  than  the  margins  of  the  swamp. 
In  fact,  the  lake  is  the  most  elevated  spot  in  the  swamp.  Scientists 
tell  us  that  the  vast  deposits  of  vegetable  matter  around  its  edges 
have  left  this  land-locked  sheet  of  water  a  crowd  of  beauty  that 
holds  the  admiring  eye  of  every  one  who  has  ever  seen  it.  It  is  no 
idle  dream  that  pictures  the  time  when  the  site  of  the  Dismal  Swamp 
will  be  the  garden  of  the  eastern  portion  of  America.  During  the 
time  of  the  Saxon  kings  England  was  to  a  great  extent  occupied 


57 

by  bogs,  which  have  since  been  cleared  away.  The  sites  of  these  bogs 
are  now  identified  by  the  great  and  persistent  fertility  of  the  soil. 
Probably  not  far  from  one-twentieth  of  the  tillable  land  in  Europe 
was  once  inundated  and  unfit  for  agriculture. 

Already  the  work  of  reclaiming  the  swamp  has  been  begun.  In 
its  original  condition,  before  this  region  had  been  affected  by  tillage, 
the  area  of  inundated  lands  was  much  larger  than  at  present.  One- 
third  of  the  swamp  has  already  been  reclaimed.  On  the  outskirts  of 
the  swamp  are  occasional  ridges  that  are  covered  with  a  growth  of 
pine.  The  lower  levels  are  mainly  occupied  by  three  species  of  trees 
which  are  tolerant  of  water  about  their  roots.  The  juniper  occupies 
areas  which  are  commonly  somewhat  dry  during  the  summer  sea- 
son. The  gum  and  cypress  can  inhabit  areas  which  are  in  most  cases 
water  covered,  even  during  the  growing  season.  The  cypress  is  the 
most  tolerant  of  water  of  these  species,  often  attaining  its  best  de- 
velopment in  places  where  summer  droughts  at  no  time  remove 
water  far  from  the  surface  of  their  roots.  Both  gum  and  cypress 
have  provisions  by  which  the  roots  are  enabled  to  have  access  to  air 
and  thus  secure  the  aeration  required  by  the  processes  which  take 
place  in  their  underground  branches.  It  is  an  interesting  fact  that 
the  knees  of  the  cypress  develop  only  where  the  roots  on  which 
they  rest  lie  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water  during  the  growing  sea- 
son of  the  year.  The  gum's  roots  similarly  arch  near  the  bole  till 
they  get  air.  These  protruding  arches  are  generally  covered  with  a 
growth  of  annual  plants.  Where  the  arch  is  small  the  tree  is  stunted. 
The  growth  of  the  cypress  presents  many  strange  and  grotesque 
appearances.  The  body  of  the  cypress  is  twice  and  sometimes  three 
times  as  large  at  its  base  as  it  is  ten  feet  from  the  ground. 

The  character  of  the  soil  is  determined  by  the  nature  of  the 
growth  thereon.  Light  swamp  land  is  soil  where  juniper  has  grown. 
It  is  nearly  pure  peat,  consisting  of  a  brown  mass  of  vegetable  matter 
derived  from  juniper  or  white  cedar.  The  thickness  of  the  deposit 
is  often  eight  to  ten  feet.  Seventy-five  to  ninety-five  per  cent  of 
the  soil  is  organic  matter.  Such  land  cleared  and  drained  is  prac- 
tically worthless  for  agricultural  purposes,  for  the  peat  cakes  and 
hardens  so  that  it  resembles  charred  wood.  Nearly  one-third  of 
the  swamp  is  light.  Nature  has  thus  provided  that  the  swamp  shall 
never  be  wholly  denuded.  The  juniper  districts  must  ever  remain 
a  nursery  for  timber  trees.  Juniper,  unlike  cypress,  reproduces  rap- 
idly, so  that  from  some  tracts  in  the  swamp  three  cuttings  of  mer- 
chantable lumber  have  been  made  in  twenty  years ;  the  wood  increas- 
ing one  inch  per  year.  Dark  swamp  land  is  soil  which  has  borne  a 
forest  of  cypress,  black  gum  and  red  maple.     This  soil  is  immeas- 


.59 

ureably  rich  in  agricultural  possibilities.  It  contains  a  large  amount 
of  organic  matter  in  its  upper  portion,  but  when  properly  drained 
the  amount  of  organic  matter  gradually  diminishes.  The  soil  after 
fifty  years  of  cultivation  still  remains  black  in  color.  The  tendency 
in  some  of  this  land  to  get  acid  at  times  is  readily  obviated  by  the 
use  of  lime.  This  reclaimed  land  is  very  fertile.  Eighty  to  one 
hundred  bushels  of  corn  to  the  acre  can  be  raised  in  this  soil,  even 
when  it  is  first  redeemed.  Potatoes  are  grown,  not  only  on  the 
light  soils  near  the  coast,  but  on  a  large  scale  in  the  heavier  soils 
along  the  eastern  border  of  the  swamp,  where  the  average  yield  is 
said  to  be  eighty  barrels  to  the  acre.  The  cultivation  of  celery  on 
these  rich  black-gum  lands  reclaimed  from  the  swamp  has  recently 
begun,  and  the  product  is  equal  in  quality  to  the  best  Michigan  celery. 

It  is  calculated  that  already  enough  labor  has  been  expended 
to  have  drained  the  whole  area  of  the  swamp,  but  it  was  conducted 
by  individual  farmers,  without  the  help  of  engineers,  and  with  no 
idea  of  general  improvement.  In  reclaiming  a  few  acres  they  have 
inundated  many  more.  The  greatest  elevation  of  the  swamp  is 
near  its  central  portion.  The  average  inclination  of  the  surface  is 
twenty  inches  to  the  mile,  and  this  is  sufficient  to  give  a  strong  cur- 
rent of  water  flowing  in  ditches  having  a  width  on  the  surface  of 
four  feet  and  a  total  depth  of  three  feet.  The  character  of  the  soil  is 
favorable  to  such  improvements.  The  considerable  amount  of  vege- 
tation causes  these  ditches  to  maintain  their  banks  in  good  order. 
Large  areas  on  either  side  of  Jericho  canal  in  Nansemond  Co.  could 
be  made  at  once  sufficiently  dry  for  agricultural  purposes. 

Recent  improvements  in  methods  of  excavation  make  it  possi- 
ble to  unwater  the  land  at  a  relatively  small  cost  compared  with 
older  methods  of  hand  labor. 

In  the  average  present  condition  of  the  forest  portions  of  the 
swamp  the  return  in  the  way  of  timber  may  amount  to  $60  an  acre, 
which  probably  would  meet  the  expenses  of  clearing  the  forest  away 
and  of  providing  the  smaller  drainage  canals.  The  area  which  would 
be  won  to  tillage  by  such  a  system,  though  only  a  portion  of  this 
swamp  district,  is  about  250  square  miles,  or  160,000  acres.  The 
money  value  of  this  area  thus  improved  is  not  less  than  $16,000,000. 
This  redeemed  land  is  admirably  adapted  to  truck  farming.  The 
annual  demand  for  such  truck  is  sure  to  increase  apace,  and  there 
is  not  other  field  so  well  suited  for  the  enlargement  of  this  form  of 
agriculture  as  the  area  occupied  by  the  morass  of  the  Dismal  Swamp. 
The  drainage  canals  could  readily  afford  water  transportation  to 
within  a  mile  of  every  part  of  the  tilled  area.  Nowhere  else  in  the 
world  is  there  near  to  great  markets  so  large  a  field  of  land  suited 


FROM  THE  U,  S.  GEOLOGICAL  SURVEY 


61 

to  garden  crops  which  is  not  used  for  such  purposes.  If  availed  of  for 
this  form  of  tillage  the  annual  return  from  the  land  would  probably 
he  not  less  than  $100  per  acre  or  a  total  of  $16,000,000.  It  is  thus 
evident  that  we  have  in  this  region  a  combination  of  the  advantages 
of  high-grade  tillage,  an  excellent  soil,  ready  water  communication,  a 
favorable  climate,  and  opportunities  for  obtaining  abundant  irriga- 
tion waters  in  time  of  drought. 

'It  is  common  opinion  that  all  swamp  districts  are  necessarily 
afflicted  with  malarial  diseases.     This  opinion  rests  upon  the  ex- 
perience which  is  had  in  the  ordinary  alluvial  lands  along  the  shores 
of  rivers.     The  fact  is  that  in  hot  climates  where  the  level  of  the 
soil  water  varies  much-  at  different  seasons  of  the  year  malarial 
effluvium  is  bred.     On  the  other  hand,  where  the  soil,  however  wet, 
retains  its  moisture  during  the  summer  seasons  at  about  the  same 
height  it  holds  during  the  winter,  there  is  no  peculiar  liability  to 
malaria.    A  certain  amount  of  malaria  occurs  in  the  margins  of  the 
swamp,  but  in  the  swamp  itself  there  is  an  almost  total  exemption 
from  malaria.     The  decay  of  peaty  matter  alone  does  not  afford 
fhe  conditions  which  lead  to  the  development  of  malarious  exhala- 
tions.   The  drainage  of  the  swamp  might  lead,  for  a  short  time,  to 
some  developmnet  of  malaria,  but  we  may  judge  from  our  experience 
in  the  drainage  work  already  done   about  the  swamp   that  these 
fevers,  if  they  occurred,  would  be  of  a  simple  and  non-malignant 
type.     The  difficulty  encountered  from  such  diseases  would  prob- 
ably be  no  greater  than  that  which  was  for  a  time  experienced  in 
the  settlements  in  Southern  Indiana. and  Illinois. 

Not  the  least  of  the  riches  of  this  region  is  the  character  of 
the  water  which  inundates  the  swamp.  It  is  commonly  called 
juniper  water,  though  its  amber  color  is  more  probably  due  to 
the  presence  of  finely  divided  vegetable  matter,  principally  the 
product  of  the  gum  tree.  This  water  is  absolutely  wholesome,  and 
its  keeping  properties  are  proverbial.  Vessels  sailing  out  of  Norfolk 
bound  for  a  long  cruise  fill  their  barrels  with  it  in  preference  to 
all  other  water,  and  it  retains  its  wholesome  characteristics  for  an 
indefinite  period.  The  waters  of  Lake  Drummond  are  so  highly 
esteemed  that  people  whose  health  is  impaired  frequently  go  there 
to  drink  of  its  waters  and  bring  it  home  with  them  in  casks.  Jericho 
canal  is  ten  miles  long.  It  extends  from  Lake  Drummond  to  a  point 
two  miles  east  of  Suffolk.  Washington  canal  is  five  miles  long  and 
runs  at  right  angles  to  Jericho  canal.  In  the  spring  and  early 
summer  the  trip  through  the  Washington  canal  furnishes  a  rare 
experience  to  the  lover  of  the  beautiful.  The  overhanging  gum, 
cypress  and  red  maple  meet  and  intertwine  overhead,  shutting  out 


63 

/the.  glare  of  the  sun.  The  strange  bald  knees  of  the  cypress 
rear  themselves  about  the  huge  body  of  the  parent  tree,  and  the 
lifted  arches  of  the  gum,  covered  with  hardy  annual  flowers,  give 
infinite  variety  of  color.  Every  stump  left  by  the  woodsman's  axe 
has  been  taken  possession  of  by  wild  ivy  or  eglantine.  •  The  ferns 
wave  along  the  banks,  high  as  a  man's  head,  and  every  passing  breeze 
quickens  into  life  the  whispering  reeds. 

The  Dismal  Swamp  is  the  greatest  game  preserve  on  the  At- 
lantic seaboard.  Bears  abound,  and  it  is  calculated  that  at  least 
two  hundred  are  killed  yearly.  Deer  are  plentiful.  Wild  cattle, 
as  fleet  and  as  wary  as  the  deer,  make  their  home  on  the  ridges 
that  run  through  the  swamp.  Otters,  minks  and  coons  are  very 
numerous,  while  on  the  margins  of  the  swamp  wood-cock  abound 
as  nowhere  else  in  this  portion  of  the  world. 


65 


CLERKS  OF  NANESEMOND  COUNTY  COURT. 


John   Leer 1675  Joseph   Prentis 

Joseph   Bridger 1699  Benjamin  Riddick. 

Daniel   Sullivan 1702-1703  Peter  B.  Prentis.  . 

Michael  Archer 1714  E.  F.  Williamson. 

Christopher  Jackson.  .  1734-1749  Willis  E.  Cohoon. 

John   Wright. 1749-1751   Peter  B.  Prentis.  . 

Lemuel    Riddick 1751-1775  Wm.   B.  Causey.. 

*John  C.  Littlepage..  1777-1830  Robert.  R.  Smith. 
John  T.  Kilby . ......  1830-1838 


.1838-1851 
.1851-1852 
. 1852-1869 
. 1869-1871 
.1871-1875 
. 1875-1888 
. 1888-1890 
.1890 


♦During  the  latter  portion  of  his  term  of  office  Littlepage  did  not  for 
many  years  reside  in  or  even  visit  the  county.  He  resided  in  Hanover  and 
was  kept  within  the  bounds  of  that  county  by  his  creditors,  he  having  re- 
fused to  take  advantage  of  the  poor-debtor's  law.  His  work  was  done  by  a 
deputy,  John  T.  Kilby,  who  succeeded  to  the  office. 


66 

MEMBERS    OF   THE   HOUSE    OF   BURGESSES    FROM 
NANSEMOND  CO. 

UPPER    NORFOLK. 
1639. 

Randall  Crew.     John  Gookin.     Tristam  Norseworthy. 

1641. 
Capt.  Daniel  Coogan  (Gookin).    John  Carter. 

1642. 
Thomas  Dewe. 

%  1643. 

John  Carter.     Randall  Crew. 

1644. 
Randall   Crew.     Moore  Fauntleroy. 

1644-5. 
Philip    Bennett.     Moore    Fauntleroy. 

1645. 
'  Philip  Bennett.     Edward  Major.     Richard  Wells. 

NANSEMOND. 

1647. 
Moore  Fauntleroy.     Sam   Stoughton.     Richard  Wells. 

1649. 
John  Carter.     Toby  Smith. 

1652   (April). 
>  Capt.   Thomas  Dew.     Edward  Major   (Speaker). 

1652  (November). 
Col.  Thomas  Dew   (Speaker).     Peter  Montague. 

1653. 
Col.  Thos.   Dew.     Lieu.   Col.   Edward  Major.     Peter   Montague. 

1654. 
Col.   Thos.   Dew.     Sam   Stoughton.     Thos.   Goodwin. 

1655-6. 
Capt.  Ed.  Streeter.    John  Willcox.     Capt.  Blake. 

UPPER  NORFOLK    (Sk.) 


67 

1657-8. 
Lieu.  Col.  Edward  Carter.     Thomas  Francis.     Giles  Webb. 

UPPER   NORFOLK    (  Sic. ) 

1658. 
Lieu.   Col.   Edward  Carter.     Capt.  Thomas-  Goodwyn   (Sic.) 

Giles  Webb. 

UPPER   NORFOLK    (Sic.) 

1659-60. 
Giles  Webb.     Wm.  Denson.     George  Catchmaie. 

1663. 
George  Wallings. 

1666. 
Capt.  John  Blake.     Capt.  John  Leare. 

1685. 
John  Brasseur.     Thomas  Lear. 

1688. 
Thomas  Milner.     Thomas  Lear. 

1692. 
Lieu.  Col.  Thomas  Milner   (Speaker).     Thomas  Lear. 

1696. 
John  Brasseur.     Thomas  Jordan. 

1702. 
Thomas  Milner.     Daniel  Sullivan. 

1714. 
Thos.  Godwin.     Wm.  Wright. 

1718. 
John  Lear.     James  Riddick. 

1720-2. 
John  Lear.     James  Reddick. 

1723. 
Thomas  Godwin.     Henry  Baker. 

1726. 
Thomas  Godwin.     Henry  Baker. 

1736. 
Daniel  Pugh.     Lemuel  Riddick. 


68 

1738. 
Daniel  Pugh.     Lemuel  Riddick. 

1740. 
Daniel  Pugh.     Lemuel  Riddick. 

1742. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Baker. 

1744. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Baker. 

1745. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Baker. 

1746. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Baker. 

1747. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Baker. 

1748. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Wm.  Hunter. 

1749. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Wm.  Hunter. 

1752. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Anthony  Holladay. 

1753. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Anthony  Holladay. 

1754   (Febr'y.) 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Anthony  Holladay. 

1754    (Aug.) 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Anthony  Holladay. 

1754(Oct.) 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Anthony  Holladay. 

1755. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Anthony  Holladay. 

1756. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick.. 

1757. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 


69 


1758. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1758-61. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1759  (Febr'y.) 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1759  (Nov.) 
Lemuel  Riddick.    Willis  Riddick. 

1760-61. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1761. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1762    (Jan'y,) 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1762   (Mrach.) 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1762    (Nov.) 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1763. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1764    (Jan'y). 
Willis  Riddick.     Lemuel  Riddick. 

1764  (Oct.). 

Willis  Riddick.     Lemuel  Riddick. 

1765  (May). 

Willis  Riddick.     Lemuel  Riddick. 

1765   (Oct.). 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1766-8. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1769. 
David  Meade.     Willis  Riddick. 

1770. 
Lemuel  Riddick.    Benjamin  Baker. 


70 


1171. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

1772-4. 
Benjamin  Baker.     Lemuel  Riddick. 

1773. 
Benjamin  Baker.     Lemuel  Riddick. 

1774. 
Benjamin  Baker.     Lemuel  Riddick. 

1775. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 


71 

CONVENTIONS   OF   1775-6. 

March  20th,  1775. 
Lemuel  Riddick.     Willis  Riddick. 

July  17th,  1775. 
Andrew  Meade.     James  Murdagh. 

Dec.   1st,  1775. 
James   Murdagh.     Andrew  Meade. 

May  6th,    1776. 
Willis  Riddick.     Wm.  Cowper. 


SPEAKERS   OF  THE   HOUSE   OF  BURGESSES   FROM 
NANSEMOND  COUNTY. 

Edward  Major April,  1652 

Thomas    Dew .  , Nov.,  1652 

Thomas  Godwin June,  1676 

Thomas   Milner 1691-93 


MEMBERS  OF  THE  GOVERNOR'S  COUNCIL. 

Richard   Bennett 1639 

William   Bernard 1641 

Thomas    Dew 1655 

John    Carter 1657-8 

Edmund  Carter 1659 

John    Lear » 


GOVERNOR. 

Richard  Bennett   .  .  , 1652-55 


SEP  *>o  iw» 

The  Only  County  Newspaper. 

THE  SUFFOLK   HERALD, 

(ESTABLISHED  IN  1873.) 

THE  HERALD  GOES  INTO  THE  HOMES  OF 
THE    BEST    PEOPLE   IN  FOUR    COUNTIES 

It  is  Uneaqualed  as  an  Advertising  Medium. 
Up-to-date  Job  Office  Department. 

MAIL     ORDERS     PROMPTLY    FILLED. 



The  Suffolk  Herald  Co., 

SUFFOLK,  VIRGINIA. 

ARTHUR  E.  PRIEST, 


Bridge  Engineer. 


CONTRACTING  KHriffQ   HlffSllfifir    CONSULTING 


LYNCHBURG,    VIRGINIA. 

Plans   and  Estimates  Furnished 


STEEL  BRIDGES,  FOUNDATIONS, 

GIRDERS,  ROOF  TRUSSES, 
COUNTY  WORK  A  SPECIALTY. 


Owego  Bridge  Company 


Main  Offices  and  Works 

OWEGO,  N.  Y. 

MANUFACTURERS  OF  = 


Steel  Bridges,  Buildings,  Roof  Trusses 

AND  ALL  KINDS  OF  STRUCTURAL  WORK 


BRIDGE  ACROSS  MOCCASIN  RIVER,  WILSON,  N.  C. 

Length  160  ft.     Roadway  16  ft. 

WE  MAKE  A   SPECIALTY    OF    HIGHWAY    BRIDGES 

If  you  will  write  us  when  you  are  in  the  market  for 

a  bridge  we  will  have  our  representatives    call 

on  you  and  prepare  plans  and  estimates 

without  cost  to  you 

BRANCH  OFFICES 

GREENSBORO,  N.  C.  LEXINGTON,  KY. 

PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 

West  End  Trust  Building 


Roanoke  Bridge  Co.,  Inc. 


-SUCCESSORS  TO- 


Highway  Bridge  Department  Virginia  Bridge  &  Iron  Go. 

Steel  Bridges 
and  Viaducts. 


HOME  OFFICE  :  TERRY  BUILDING,        BRANCH  OFFICES :  ROCK  HILL,  S.  C. 
Roanoke,  Virginia.  Equitable  Bldg.,  Atlanta,  Ga. 


We  have  the  Largest  Shops  in  the  South 
Behind  us. 

All  Inquiries  Promptly  Looked  After. 

Plans  and  Estimates   Furnished  on  Short 

Notice. 

Give  us  a  Trial. 

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