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THE NEW YOEK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
ASTOR. r.FNOX>.VD
TIL 13 EN FOUNDATIONS
" L
CLARENCE E. BAGLEY
HISTORY OF
SEATTLE
From the Earliest Settlement to the
Present Time
BY
CLARENCE B. BAGLEY
ILLUSTRATED
VOLUME
CHICAGO
THE S. J. CLARKE PUBLISHING COMPANY
1916
THE WEW YORK
, PUBLIC LIBRARY
1686712 A
ASTOR, LENOX AND
I TIUDEN FOUNDATIONS
R 1833 L
Copyright, 1916, by
C. B. BAfiLEY
PREFACE
The reader, who may give tlicse pajjes more than a passing glance, will
discover that the writer has presented an account of events and not a history
of the men who were the actors in them.
The reasons for this are twofold. First, lack of fitness for biographical
writing; and second, of far nKjre ini])()rtancc. the belief that the time is not yet
ripe for a truthful and ini])arli;d W(irk of that Idiid. Ilie city is young; of its
founders and of those who helped to erect the present structure, in all its magnili-
cence. many are yet here. When these shall have gone to their final account will
i)c time enough to deal with tin- jiersonal element of its pioneers and builders.
The ]jrei)aration of a History of Seattle has, in effect, been the e.\ploratif)n
<jf a new field and the amount of ])atient research and careful investigation
involved has been a task of colossal proportions.
The ])rinted and written records of tlie first twenty years of Seattle's existence
are scanty almost beyond belief. .\ot until 1863 was a newspaper established
here and, for many years, more s])ace in it was devoted to eastern and foreign
jiolitics than to the record of local passing events, b'ew, if any, pioneers kept
di.iries and none of these, except that of the writer, has been accessible.
Ilis own local recollections cover nearly all tiie years since Seattle's found-
ing and he has not deemed it necessary, excepting u])0n rare occasions, to Cjuote
.lutborities regarding matters within the range of his personal knowledge.
When this work was begun it was contemplated that his connection with it
should be that of editor only ; to give aid and counsel in its jireparation and to read
:md approve it in advance of its publication. Not until late in the year 1915
was the constructive work ])laced in hi.s hands and, the publishers being desirous
t)f its delivcrv to the sub.scribers as soon as ])ossil)le, he and his co-workers have
•iince given to it long hours of imrcmitting toil. The utmost condensation has
been observed consistent with a ])ro])er ])rescntation of the topics under dis-
cussion.
Messrs. Welford llealon. I'loyd C. Kaylor and \ ictor j. I'arrar ha\e done
much work in its preparation and the writer's thanks are also here extended
to Judge Roger 5?. Greene, Dr. TI. Eugene .Mien and Messrs. TIarry W. P. ring-
hurst and A. A. Braymer for notable aid and kindly counsel during the progress
of the work.
Seattle, Washington, May i, 1916. CL.\KF..\rr: P.. P.\f;i.F.v.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Clarence B. Bagley Frontispiece
Seattle Water Front, About 1878, Looking Up Marion Street lO
Seattle, Early in 1865 20
The Cook House in 1866 24
Store of I'lumnier & 1 linds in i860 30
Charles riuninier's Residence 38
The Felker House 38
Yesler's Wharf, About 1885 44
Seattle, Looking Xorthwest from Yesler's Wharf, About 1878 50
Ezra Meeker 52
Seattle Water Front from Beacon Hill, About 1881 54
Yesler Way, About 1870 58
Looking South from 'i'hird and Pike, About 1870 60
Looking North from Main Street and First Avenue South, 1866 66
Occidental Avenue Looking North from Main Street, 1872 72
1 lorton's and Yesler's Wharfs, About 1876 74
Chief Seattle 78
Angeline, Daughter of Chief Seattle 84
First Avenue, About 1876 88
\'ie\v from Denny Hill, 1882 90
Cherry Street in January, 1880 98
The \\'ater Front in 1878 100
The Steamer Beaver 104
The Steamer Eliza Anderson no
Steamer George E. Starr 114
The C. & P. S. R. R. Terminals, About 1883 120
l^ooking Nortli from First Avenue Near Cherry, About 1878 124
South End of Lake Union. About 1885 126
Looking North on First Avenue South, About 1883 130
Part of Washington State University Campus 136
The Territorial University 140
Lincoln High School 162
Queen Anne High School 164
I'roadway High School 168
Franklin High School 170
Ballard High School 172
West Seattle High School 176
First Presbyterian Church 178
First Baptist Church 178
Tabernacle I'>aptist Church 178
Plymouth Congregational Church 178
First Methodist Protestant Church iSo
St. James Cathedral 182
Trinity Parish Church 182
Madrona Presbyterian Church 184
V
vi ILLUSTRATIONS
Olympic United Presbyterian Church 184
I'ilgrim Congregational Church 184
First Unitarian Church 184
Holy Names Acarlemy 184
The Milton Apartments 184
The Davis Apartments 184
The Stanley Apartments 1S4
First Church of Ciirist. Scientist 186
First Baptist Church 188
First Methodist Church 188
The Old Way and the New 252
Crossing of Pipe Lines Nos. i and 2 264
Cedar Lake Dam 264
Pipe Line from Cedar Lake to Seattle Light Power Plant 264
Cedar River Dam and Intake 266
Cedar River Above the Intake 266
Cedar River at Landsburg 268
Swan Lake — A Reserve Source of Seattle's Water Supjjly 270
Another \ iew of Swan Lake 272
The Public Library 288
H. E. Allen 334
Regraded and Rebuilt in Three Years 354
Third Avenue Regrade Near Marion Street 358
Denny Hill Regrade 360
Regrading County Court House Plock 362
Third Avenue Regrade from Jefterson Street 364
Three Years' Changes in < )ne of the Regrade Centers 366
Second Avenue Regrade, Below ( )ld Washington Hotel 368
Lake W'ashington Canal Locks 371
Canal Between the Lakes. Looking ( )ver Lake Washington 374
Locks at Ballard, Looking West 376
Canal Locks, Looking East 378
King Street, Looking West, About 1900 and in 191 5 382
Jackson Street Regrade, Looking West 384
Jackson Street Regrade, Looking North 384
The Denny ( Washington ) Hotel Prior to Regrading 381')
The Denny Hotel After Second Avenue Was Cut Down. . . .- 386
Third Avenue Regrade at Marion Street 388
Denny Hill Regrading 388
Third Avenue Regrade. North of -Seneca Street 390
A Regrade Fill 390
The Denny Hill Regrade Nearing Completion 394
Interest in the .Sluicing Work Was L'nceasing 394
Denny Hill at Second Avenue and \Mrginia in 1907 and 1909 396
The Great .Seattle Fire at Place of Beginning 420
Lake Shore & Eastern Depot on Columbia Street, June 6, 1889 422
Railroad .'\ venue on Columbia Street, in 1915 422
Seattle, Soon After the Great Fire 424
Dexter Horton and Arthur Denny 428
Seattle's First Bank 42^
View Showing Banking Business After the Great Fire 428
New ^lunicipa! Dam Below Cedar Lake 430
Concrete Dam Below Cedar Lake, Looking East 434
Cedar Falls, Site of Municipal Light Plant 438
Outlet of Cedar Lake, Looking East 442
The New Masonry Dam 44'^
( )ld Timber Dam at Cedar Lake 44^
CONTENTS
CIIAI'TKR I
IN THE BEGINNING 1
CIIAITER II
THE PIONEER PERIOD 1 7
CHAPTF.R Til
THE INDIAN WAR I'EKKiIJ 52
CHAPTF.R I\-
THE INDIAN TKIIiES AND CHIEP SEATTLE "J"/
CH APTFR \'
Seattle's MosuiiTd fleet lOo
CMArTER \T
COAL MINES AND I OAI. MINING 122
CHAPTER VTT
WASHINC.ION STATE fNIVERSITV 1.^5
CHAPTER WW
iiiic ATiiix \\. \( ri\ iTii s 161
CIIAPTICR IX
THE CHLRCH 17S
CHAPTER X
THE PRESS lS()
(I1\I''I'ER XI
THE SNOQUALMIE PASS 20S
CHAPTER XII
SAWM ILLS. LUMBER AND Ll'MBER I'R(iDI( TS 221
CHAPTER XIH
U MLUn \liS 243
vii
viii COXTENTS
.1
CHAPTER XIV
WATER AND WATER SUPPLY 264
I
CHAPTER XV I
MUNICIPAL PARKS 273 j
CHAPTER XVI I
THE PUBLIC LIBRARY 281
CHAPTER XVII
BENCH AND BAR 29O
CHAPTER XVIII
HEALTH AND SANITATION, MEDICINE AND SURGERY 321
CHAPTER XIX
KEGRADES, DRAINAGE AND HARBOR IMPROVEMENTS 354
CHAPTER XX
THE LAKE WASHINGTON CANAL 37I
CHAPTER XXI
FISH AND FISHERIES 398
CHAPTER XXII
THE MERCER EXPEDITIONS 407
CHAPTER XXIII
Seattle's great fire 419
CHAPTER XXIV
street railways, lighting AND POWER 429
CHAPTER XXV
THE ANTI-CHINESE AGITATION AND RIOTS 455
CHAPTER XXM
BANKS AND BANKERS 478
CHAPTER XXVII
woman's work 487
CHAPTER XXVIII
THE SEATTLE FIRE DEPARTMENT 5OI
CHAPTER XXIX
THE ALASKA-YUKON-PACIFIC EXPOSITION 523
I
CONTENTS ix
CHAPTER XXX
ALASKA SIIIIM'INn INTKRFSTS 530
CHAPTER XXX r
Tim M U N 1 1 1 1 • M I 1 1\ I K V M ENT 545
CHAPTER XXXII
EARl.V ^ M' \" 'Kl' 1 M I'ciKT ANT CITY PLATS 5^3
CHAPTER XXXIII
CLUBS, SOCIETIES AND FRATERNITIES 573
CHAPTER XXXI\'
INDUSTRIAL SEATTLE 597
CHAPTER XXXV
BUILDI NGS 636
CHAPTER XXXM
PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETIES 64I
CHAPTER XXXVH
SOME NOTABLE MARINE DISASTERS 649
CHAPTER XXXVIII
M ISCELLANEOUS 659
CHAPTER XXXIX
BIOGRAPHICAL 7^1
HISTORY OF SEATTLE
CHAPTER 1
i\ rill': I'.i'.cixxixc,
It is the iiueiuioii of the wrilLT of this work lo bring into it only facts and
accounts that belong to a history of Seattle. However, the history of the City
of Seattle and of the Sound country are so closely interwoven that it will be
necessary to go far anterior to the arrival of the ])ioneers in Mlliott Hay lo
|(resent a clear understanding of the later years. It is believed the readers of
its pages will be more ])lease(l with this ])lan than to consume much space in
descriliing remote incidents about which they are, perhaps, belter informed
than the writer.
I''or more than a century preceding the settlement at Alki Point maritime
expeditions into the North I'acilic had been made by the Spanish, liritish, Rus-
sian and .\merican navigators, and a brief account of these is proper as a ])relu(le
to the later events which made the rise of the City of Seattle ])ossiblc.
In April, 1596, Michael LoU, an luiglishman. met an old Creek navigator
called Juan de Fuca. at \'enicc. and in the course of their conversation, de Fuca
ojjcned u|) to him certain of his voyages. On one of these, in 1592, while in the
service of the X'iceroy of Mexico, he sailed up the coast of Xorlh America until
he came lo latitude forty-seven degrees where he fotnid a broad inlet between
the forty-seventh and forty-eighth, and entering it sailed for more than twenty
days, ])assing many islands. The viceroy ])romised him a great reward for his
discovery, but the rewanl ne\er came. ;ind de Fuca said that he then lefl the
service of the viceroy, and intimated lo Lok that he would like to enter the
service of the Fnglish if for no other reason than to gel revenge on the Spanish
for their vile treatment of him. Lok tried lo get the old m.in employment,
but never succeederl, and the old man died. It has since been proved that Juan
de biica or Apostolos \ alerianos. as he was known in the Creek language, is a
myth and that I.ok h;id been imjjosed ujion by a clever seaman. However, the
story became widely known and was ])ublished in the leading geogra])hies of
the day. It is a remarkable coincidence that his story should be so nearly in
keeping with the facts.
Tiie Sp.mish had been ])ushing northward from ^fexico and, witnessing the
efforts of all the other civilized nations in the r.icific Xorthwest, began to send
explorers into these waters. On May 2[, 1775, the Spanisfi sent out from
San T'llas. Mexico, the Santiago, in command of Tiruno Ileceta, accom|)anied
by the schooner .*>onora. in command of liodega y Ouadra. This expedition
1
2 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
sailed northward as far as Alaska, and on its return narrowly missed the dis-
covery of the Columbia River. But they failed to sight the entrance to the
Strait of Juan de Fuca.
On Sunday, March 22, 1778, Capt. James Cook, of the British navy, sail-
ing on his third voyage, made his way along the northwest coast of North
America and sighted a prominent cape which he called Cape Flattery. He had
in mind the sujiposed strait or inlet advertised by Juan de Fuca and Lok, but
after considerable search was unable to find it. It appears that a heavy wind
arose during the night and when morning came he had passed the entrance.
Cook remained at Nootka Sound, on what is now Vancouver Island, for over
a month, engaged in scientific work.
To Capt. John Meares belongs the honor of sighting the Strait of Juan de
Fuca. In ]\Iay, 1788, while sailing under the British flag, but in reality under
double colors, having a Portuguese partner, Meares in the Felice arrived at
Nootka, and purchased for two pistols some land from the Indian chief,
Maquinna. He erected a fort here and built a little vessel called the North West
America. In the latter part of June Meares set out to explore the surrounding
country, and on Sunday, June 29, 1788, he sighted the great inlet which he
called after its real discoverer John de Fuca. Of course Meares believed
implicitly in the story of Juan de Fuca. He made for the southern coast and
landed upon the shores of what is now the State of Washington, probabl}' at
Neah Bay, and there was received by a chief called Tatoosh. He saw the
large mountain to the southward and called it Mount Olympus. He then went
southward and entered Willapa Harbor which he called Shoalwater Bay, but
was unable to find a river where the Columbia empties into the Pacific and so
dubbed the site where he had labored in vain Cape Disappointment and Decep-
tion Bay. Returning to Nootka, Meares dispatched one of his officers and
thirteen men in a boat to examine the shores of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Meares then left with a cargo of lumber for the Chinese markets and made
arrangements for his aids to winter in the Sandwich Islands. Later he organ-
ized a joint stock company for trading purposes under a license from the East
India Company and proceeded to build up a colony at Nootka of Chinese- men
and Hawaiian wives. In April, 17S9, two captains of Meares', Douglas and
Funter, arrived at Nootka.
In the meantime, the Spanish, alarmed at the fact that the Russians were
extending their colonies and forts north of California, sent Estevan Jose Mar-
tinez northward to examine the Russian settlements. He secured information
that the Russians intended to send four frigates from Siberia to Nootka, where-
upon he was directed to repair to Nootka and take possession of the place in
the name of the Spanish king and build a fortress there. By so doing he would
out-general the Russians. When he arrived at Nootka, however, he found the
English ships instead of the Russian, and proceeded to take possession of the
place and to seize the ships and men, taking them to Mexico. The Spanish
then occupied the fort erected by Meares and established a garrison, first under
Martinez and later under Francisco Eliza. This was almost an act of war and
for a while it looked as if Spain and England would leap at each other's throats.
The Spanish began to compromise by releasing the ships and men and promising
indemnities to the owners of the vessels for delays, etc. But Meares had now
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 3
arrived in England and he set the matter before the English government on
April 30. 1790. England demanded not only a payment of damages for the
individual losses of ships and stores, but demanded also that the lands be restored
to the sovereignty of the English crown. England was able to secure the prom-
ise of aid from Holland and Prussia, but as Spain's chief ally, France, was now
in the midst of a revolution, Spain was forced to meet the British demands,
and signed a treaty dated October 28, 1790, which provided for an indemnity
ultimately amounting to $210,000 to be paid by Spain, and the transfer of the
lands at Nootka to England. Subjects of both powers were left free to visit the
port. The entire matter was patched up at Nootka in March, 1795.
It was during these years that the Spanish became quite intimately acquainted
with the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and made fairly accurate sur\'eys of the
coasts as far east as Bellingham and as far south as Admiralty Inlet. In 1790,
Francisco Eliza, who was in command at Nootka, sent Manuel Quimper to
explore the Strait of Juan de Fuca. He placed Spanish names on most of the
bays, points, and islands, few of which have survived. In 1792, two scientific
men, Dionisio Galliano and Cayetano Valdcs, were added to the expedition, and
they made further surveys. The principal names added to the nomenclature of
the Sound were San Juan Archipelago, Sucia Islands, Matia Islands, Canal de
Haro, Port Angeles, Guemes Island, and Fidalgo Bay. Most of the others have
long since disappeared, although subsequent explorers have honored the Span-
ish commanders by naming several places for them.
On the two principal maps left as a heritage by the Spaniards, that portion
of the Sound now known as Admiralty Inlet, which connects Pugct .Sound
proper with the Strait of Juan: de Fuca, is called Boca de Caamano. Quimper
says in his journal, that from his station (now called Port Discovery) he saw
other inlets and openings to the east, which he called Boca de Fidalgo and Boca
de Flon. He had, however, no time to explore them. Don Francisco Eliza,
who advanced in 1791 to the eastern end of de Fuca Strait, recognized for the
first time this inlet, and called it Bocas de Caamano, probably in honor of the
Spanish navigator, Caamano. Eliza, however, did not further explore the
interior of this inlet, because he understood from the Indians that, though it
was very long, still, from the end of it, one could not advance further unless
with canoes. Eliza's object was not to explore shut-up inlets, but to find a
passage to other waters.
Following closely upon the voyages of Cook and Meares was the expedi-
tion of George Vancouver who was the first recorded white man to enter Puget
Sound above the entrance to Admiralty Inlet. Vancouver's expedition was
partly scientific, partly commercial, and partly diplomatic, for he was detailed
to meet the Spanish at Nootka .Sound and arrange terms of settlement. He
sailed from England April i, 1791, with the sloop-of-war Discovery and the
armed tender Chatham, and after rounding the Cape of Good Hope visited the
South Seas and the Hawaiian Islands, and then made his way to what was
then known as New Albion, but which is today called Oregon and Washington.
He examined the region about Cape Disappointment, but came to the con-
clusion that there was only an inlet there, and then proceeded northward nam-
ing Point Grcnville and passing Cape Flattery and entering the Strait of Juan
de Fuca. Here he met Capt. Robert Gray of the ship Columbia who told him
4 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
that he had discovered a large river at Cape Disappointment, but \'ancoiiver
would not believe him, and only later did he come to the same conclusion.
\ ancouver named the mountain which appeared to the eastward Mount Baker
after his third lieutenant, Joseph Baker; New Dungeness after its resemblance
to old Dungeness in England ; Port Discovery after his vessel, the Discovery,
and the little island at the entrance to the harbor. Protection Island, because
it served as a protection to the harbor both from contrary winds and armed
attacks from an enemy if the island were fortified. He now came in sight of
a large mountain to the south-eastward which he called Mount Rainier in honor
of Rear Admiral Peter Rainier, his friend. Port Townsend he named after
the Marquis of Townshend. [.\bout 1S50 the "h" was dropped as the word,
so spelled, proved difficult for the Americans.] He sailed into Hood's Canal
which he so called after the Right Honorable Lord Hood, and Marrowstone
Point because it was here that he found deposits of marrowstone.
He then quickly sailed southward into the main port of the Sound and estab-
lished his party in headquarters on what is now Restoration Point on Bain-
bridge Island. This point he first called X'illage Point, probably because it
was here that he found an Indian village, but he changed the name to Restora-
tion Point in honor of the fact that the day was the anniversary of the restoration
of the Stuart monarch, Charles II, to the throne, after the long rule of Oliver
Cromwell. From his headquarters at Restoration Point Vancxjuver sent out
small boat parties to make surveys. His lieutenant, Peter Puget. went up the
Sound, through the narrows and made a fairly good survey of the waterways
and inlets. This portion of the Sound was called by \'ancouver Puget Sound, and
the name is ]3robably as euphonious a one as has ever been given to any por-
tion of the earth's surface. It must be remembered that Vancouver intended
that only that portion of all these northwest waters should be called Puget
Sound, but it is interesting to note the development of this word Puget Sound
as a generic term for all these Northwest waters, ^'ancouver designated these
waters by five names, viz.: Strait of Juan de Fuca, Canal de An'o. Gulf of
Georgia, Admiralty Inlet, and Puget Sound, but at the present time all save two,
Puget Sound and Strait of Juan de Fuca, have ceased to be terms of popular
])arlance. (jnly the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey Charts officially
recognize them. Nor is the term .Strait of Juan de Fuca safe from ultimate
extinction. In 1859 no less a jserson than Governor Douglas of British Coluiu-
bia spoke of Vancouver Island as being in Puget Sound, and in a recent decision
of the Superior Court of Clallam County. Judge Ralston held that for the pur-
poses of the fishing laws, the Strait of Juan de Fuca was a part of Puget Sound.
Vancouver, himself, surveyed the land to the southward of Restoration
Point, and found and named the large island Vashon Island, in honor of a
friend, James Vashon. This brings up an interesting relationship of names.
Rainier's sister, Sarah, married Admiral James \'ashon, and Joseph Baker
married X'ashon's niece, so that in a way Mount Baker, and Mount Rainier are
related.
The survey of the waterways to the westward of Restoration Point \'an-
couver intrusted to his clerk, H. M. Orchard, and that is how we get the name
Port Orchard. Not wishing to be forgetful of the honors w-hich the board of
admiralty in England had bestowed upon him in selecting him as leader of the
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 5
ex])i'ililioii, X'ancouvcr named the watercourse which extends from the nar-
rows to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, A(hnirahy Inlet, which name is still ot^cially
used upon all Government charts, but which is not very generally used by the
public at large. On \'ancouver's chart a fairly good representation of the
harbor which is now known as Elliott Bay is set down, but there is no evidence
to show iJKii \'ani.-ouver's surveyors did any more than sketch it in the rough
from small boats perhaps a half a mile from mainland.
His expedition now repaired to the inlet or watercourse to the eastward
of Wiiidby Island and landed somewhere on the maiidand within the present
limits of the City of E\crett. Here he prejjared to celebrate the king's [George
111) ijirihday, it being June 4, 1792. .\s this region is so near to the present
limits of the City of Seattle I take leave to (|uote a few words from X'ancouver's
Journal.
"Sunday, the 3d, all hands were employed in lishing with tolerably good
success, or in taking a little recreation mi shore; and on .Monday, the 4th, they
were served as good a dinner as we were able to provide for them, with double
allowance of grog to drink the king's health, it being the anniversary of his
majesty's birth: on which auspicious day, I had long since designed to take
formal possession of all the countries we had lately been employed in explor-
ing, in the name of, and for his llritannic majesty, his heirs and successors.
"To execute this purpose, accompanied by Mr. liroughton and some of the
oflicers, I went on shore about one o'clock, pursuing the usual formalities which
are generally observed on such occasions, and under the discharge of a royal
salute from the vessels, took possession accordingly of the coast, from that
part of New .Vlbion, in the latitude of 39° 20' north, and longitude 21,6' 1(1'
east, to the entrance of this inlet of the sea, said to be the supposed Straits of
Juan de Fuca: as likewise all the coasts, islands, etc., within the said straits,
as well on the northern as on the southern shores ; together with those situated
in the interior sea we had discovered, extending from the said straits, in vari-
ous directions, between the northwest, north, east and southern quarters; which
interior sea I ha\e honored with the name of The Gulf of Georgia, and the
continent binding the said gulf, and extending southward to the forty-fifth
degree of north latitude, with that of New Georgia; in honor of his present
majesty. This branch of .\dmirally Inlet obtained the name of Possession
Sound; its western arm, after Nice .\diniral Sir .Man Gardner, I distinguished
by the name of Port Gardner, and its smaller eastern one by that of Port Susan."
RcceiUly the Daughters of the .\merican Revolution erected a monument,
in commemoration of this event, within the present limits of the City of liverett.
.\ bronze tablet upon the monument reads: "On The Beach Near This Spot
\'ancou\er Landed June 4, 1792. Erected by the Marcus Whitman Cliai)ter
Daughters of the American Revolution, June 4, 1915."
Port Susan has almost disappeared as a name; Possession Sound is still
used for E\erett Harbor; Port Gardner has been rejjlaced by Saratoga Passage;
while .Man Point is still the southern cape of Camano Island; and the term
Possession is further used as the name of the south cape of W'hidby Island.
It is a matter of regret that his celebration could not ha\e taken |)lace nearer
the City of .Seattle. It is, however, interesting to note that all the land once
taken possession of by the English and later transferred to the United .States
6 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
of America, is connected in some way with the name of George III. It was
this king who was reigning when the American Revolutionary war was fought;
while this country, called by Vancouver, New Georgia, later known as Oregon
and Washington, was definitely ceded to the United States in 1846.
Other names which Vancouver gave were : Whidbey Island, in honor of
the master of his ship Discovery, Joseph Whidbey, who had made extensive
surveys in this region, and who proved this to be an island. A'ancouver never
determined that Camano Island was an island but has it set down on his chart
as a part of the mainland. Point Partridge was named in honor of the family
into Vi'hich \'ancouver's brother John had married. Other names are: Cypress
Island, Strawberry Bay, Deception Pass. Bellingham Bay, Point Hudson,
Birch Bay and Point Roberts. This latter name is of some interest. Van-
couver was not the first choice of the admiralty as leader of the expedition.
Another person, Capt. Henry Roberts, had been selected, and Vancouver was
to go along in the capacity of lieutenant, but just as the expedition was on
the point of sailing, a war with Spain was imminent, and Roberts was sent in
command of a ship of war to fight the Spanish, if war were declared, in the
West Indies. But \'ancouver and Roberts were on good terms and in recogni-
tion of their friendship as well as a recognition of former intentions, Vancouver
perpetuated his name in the region which he was once selected to survey.
Vancouver had other work to do in this Northwest region besides make
surveys, namely, to carry out certain provisions of an agreement between Spain
and England, which is known as the Nootka Convention, with the Spanish
officer stationed at Nootka .Sound, Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra,
by name. The two met at Nootka but were unable to come to any agreement,
although each had a high regard for the other personally, and Vancouver was
treated with great respect. Quadra suggested that some place be named after
them both not only to commemorate their meeting but the friendship that
existed between them as well, so Vancouver named the island upon which
they met. Quadra and Vancouver Island. Then the two separated. Spain
gave up her claim to this region, and the fortunes of the countrj', generally
known as Old Oregon, fell to the United States and Great Britain which nations
possessed them under a joint occupancy agreement until 1846, when the pres-
ent boundary was drawn. The name of the island, Quadra and Vancouver,
persisted upon some maps until in the '50s, but the Quadra was dropped, and
the Vancouver remains. Vancouver gave many names to British Columbia and
Alaska as well as to the State of Washington.
After his return to England he devoted himself entirely to the preparation
of his journal for publication; but died while the work was on the press. May
10, 1798. His brother John, with the assistance of Captain Puget, completed
the work which was' dedicated to King George III, the first edition being pub-
lished in 1798.
In 1670 Charles II of England granted to Prince Rupert and associates a
charter giving them the exclusive right to trade with the Indians of the region
about Hudson Bay, and a company was then formed to take advantage of
this charter. It was called the Hudson's Bay Company, and like most of
the early English companies did the threefold work of fur-trading, governing
the region, and defending the country from a possible foreign enemy. For
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 7
over two centuries this company maintained a monopoly; but after that time
a rival company which disputed its monopoly, the Northwest Company, was
organized, and these two organizations expanded, moving across the Canadian
wilds. About the beginning of the nineteenth century they moved from north-
western Canada into the unowned country known as Oregon, and proceeded to
organize it.
The Americans had been keenly alive to the opportunities of the fur-
trading business in the West, but they never succeeded as well as their English
rivals. Chief among the American companies was the one promoted by John
Jacob Astor, but just as he was getting started the War of 1812 with England
came on, and the English compelled the surrender of his post at the mouth of
the Columbia. His associates on the ground lost no opportunity in accepting
the offer of the Northwest Company to buy them out, and the fort, known in
historj- as Astoria, became the proiierty of the English, and its name changed
to Fort George, in honor of the ruling monarch, George HI.
About 1 82 1 the two English companies grew tired of the rivalries of each
other and merged into one company retaining the name of the older company,
the Hudson's Bay Company. With a view to organizing the Oregon coun-
try. Governor Simpson came down from Northwest Canada and arrived at
Astoria or Fort George, in the fall of 1824. He organized this region as the
District of the Columbia and placed Dr. John McLoughlin in charge as chief
factor; he made arrangements for the removal of headquarters from Astoria
to a newly selected site further up the Columbia River to be called Fort Van-
couver because it was near to the site generally known as "Vancouver's far-
thest." This was in 1824. A second post, a trading post, was planned and
built on the Eraser River and known as Fort Langley. The expedition which
located Fort Langley is interesting to us, as one of the clerks, John Work, has
recorded it in his journal, also some of his descendants live in Seattle. The
proposed expedition left Fort George or Astoria in November, 1824, and was
under the command of James McMillan. It made its way by canoe and portage
from the Columbia River to Gray's Harbor via Baker's Bay and Willapa Har-
bor; thence up the Chehalis River to the Black River, up that stream to its
source. Black Lake, then by portage to Eld Inlet, and finally by Puget Sound to
the Eraser River. After a brief examination of the river the party returned,
but when reaching the Chehalis River divided into two groups, one going by
the route whence it had come, the other making overland to the Cowlitz River
and down that stream to the Columbia. This is one of the first recorded uses
made of the Cowlitz trail, so well-known to the early pioneers. In June, 1827,
the same commander, James McMillan, headed the expedition which was to
build Fort Langley. The Cadboro, a vessel famous in the historj' of the Sound
was to assist, and she went by way of the Pacific. The overland expedition,
however, came up from Vancouver by the Cowlitz trail, which shows that the
trail was just coming into use. Fort Langley was built in the fall of 1827 and
James McMillan was placed in command. At this place a few of the entries
in the journal of John Work are quoted as they throw much original light and
color on the early nomenclature about Seattle :
"Tuesday, 7th. Wind Easterly. Overcast cold weather, foggy in the morn-
ing. Embarked at Yi past 7 o'clock and proceeded 3 miles N. E., 6 E. and
8 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
26 North, in all 35 miles. Encamped at 4 o'clock in the evening. Our course
lay through narrow channels about 3^ mile wide and some wide openings
formed by traversing bays and channels formed by islands and points. I'assed
a channel on the E. side, the last of the bays receives the Oualax River.
[PuyallupJ Stopped at another little river where there was a village [Steila-
coom] of the Nisqually Nation consisting of six houses, these are miserable
habitations constructed of poles covered with mats, we were detained ij^^
hours at this village, getting two men and a woman, wife to one of them,
to act as interpreters and guides for us. The men are both of the Sanahomis
tribe [Snohomish] and are not intelligible to any of our party, neither do
they well understand us but they, at least one of them, understands the lan-
guage of the Coweechins which is the name of the tribe at the entrance of
what is supposed to be Eraser's River. The woman speaks antl understands
the Chenook language pretty well and is to interpret to the men. Two canoes
with 8 Indians passed our encampment in the evening, and when it was dark
the Indians visited our camp, these people are from the Interior and belong
to the . . . The Nisqualy Indians speak a language different from any
we have seen yet. Where we are encamped is an island [\'ashon] where we
see the marks of some horses which the Indians have on it. The appearance
of the shores is much the same as yesterday, still bold and high, composed of
clay and generally wooded to the water's edge. Where we encamped last night
we found abundance of mussels at low water.
"Wednesday, 8th, some rain in the afternoon, wind Easterly. We were on
the water at 7 o'clock and made according to estimation a distance of 36
miles, N. 5 miles, W. 3, northeast 5 and north 23. We were 7-;4 hours on
the water, 3^4 of which we both sailed and paddled with mild breeze, we
concluded that we made at least 5 miles per hour. \\'e, this day, proceeded
through a fine channel formed, as the other, by the mainland and an island.
Passed an opening on the E. side in the morning and on the same side a
bay [Elliott Bay] into which the Sinananimis River [Duwamish River] flows.
On the West side we came through the Soquamis Bay from which there is a
small opening to the Westward. Where we are now encamped opposite to a
wider channel or opening [Admiralty Inlet] which runs to the W'estward, it is
very deep with a number of islands in its north side and through its entrance.
The channels through which we passed may be 3 or 4 miles wide, the shores
appear the same as yesterday. We stopped at the Soquamis village situated m
the bay. Port Madison of the same name. It consists of 4 houses, we saw only
8 or ten men, but understand several of the inhabitants were off fishing. Our
object in stopping here was to get the chief to accompany us an an interpreter,
but he was not at home. The houses are built of boards covered with mats."
The line of communication between Forts Vancouver on the Columbia and
Langley on the Eraser River was too great and dii^cult of passage, and before
a half dozen years had elapsed the company decided to locate a post midway
between the two. It is not known why the choice fell to a little prairie at
Sequalichew Creek, but it is probable that the locators desired a port on Puget
Sound where sea going vessels could land, and also a place not far removed
from the Cowlitz trail.
Here, in the spring of 1833, Archibald C. McDonald built the trading post
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 9
known as Xisqually House or I""ort Nisqually. h was more of a post than a
fort, consisting of a main hall for business, a hall for the assembled Indians
to congregate in, quarters for the men, who seldom numbered more than a
dozen, shops, bams and other buildings. The buildings were crudely con-
structed of hewn timbers ant! whijj-sawed boards, plastered within and cov-
ered with cedar bark without. The business of the post was three-fold : Trad-
ing in furs with the Indians, raising grain for cxiwrt to Russia and the
Hawaiian Islands, and salmon packing for the export trade. In time the
beef, salmon and grain trade became the chief form of enterprise of the posts
of l.angley. Xisqually and \"ancou\er, for the Sound country was never very
rich in furs. As lime went on several extensive farms were added to Nisqually
post. While the plowing and more skilled work was done by the em])loyes
lit the Hudson's liay Company, among whom were natives of the Sandwicii
Islands, a large amount of work was also done by the Indians who were fairly
quick to learn some of the more menial tasks.
Nisqually secured the Indian trade of most of the Sound region. The
Makah, Clallam, Skagit. .Snohomish, Twana, Duwamish, Nisqually, Chehalis
and Cowlitz tribes were frequent visitors to the ]X)st. At times Indians from
east of the mountains brought their furs to Nisqually. coming either by way of
.\aches Pass or a more northern route. The chief furs secured were from the
beaver, sea otter, black bear, lynx, musquash and deer, and these the Indians
bartered for blankets, guns, and various other articles, chiefly those of dress.
.\ blanket brought two first-class beaver skins. The em])loyes of the company
were very closely allied with the Indians with whom most were intermarried,
and the lialfbreed children usually remained in close contact with the post.
While the Indians disliked the Nisqually officials because of the high tariffs
imposed, nevertheless, they soon regarded the trading ])ost as an indispensable
adjunct to their ci\ilization. The Indian never had much use for the settler,
but he had a common interest in the trading post.
Here at Nisqually, in the early '30s, the Indians received their first instruc-
tion in the white man's religion, anil seemed to make some progress, although
die example set by the employes was hardly ins])iring.
In the S])ring of 1834 the company decided that the ])osts Langley and
Xisijually could be sujiplanted to advantage by a post established midway
between the two, and several surveys were taken of the country on Whidby
Island in the vicinity of Ebey's Landing and Fort Casey. It was decided
diat a post should be erected there and the men and materials were on their
way from Nisqually when the expedition was recalled owing to disorders at
Xisqually which needed the immediate attention of the commander. It .seems
hardly possible that the fate of a post on Whidby Island should hang on so
-light an accidental factor, but although the company continued to siieak of
W hidby Island as a future site, the post was never built, and Langley and
Xis(|ually served as they had in the past. It is interesting to note the possible
cfTect such a post might have had on the subsequent history of the State of
Washington. Had the I'.ritish been in possession of a post on Whidby Island
in 1X46 when the Oregon question was settled and a Ixjundary line permanently
established it might have been so drawn as to include as Rritish Territory
the entire San Juan archipelago as well as Whidby Island.
10 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
While looking for the proposed site for the new post, one of the employes
of the company, Ouvrie, by name, suggested the site later known as Seattle.
Under date of July 8, 1833, the following entry is recorded in Dr. William
Eraser Tolmie's diary at Nisqually House :
"Ouvrie having frequently talked about a spot favorable for an establish-
ment, it has been agreed that I am to start this evening accompanied by
Ouvrie and five or six Indians in canoe to examine the place and return tomor-
row night." The diary for the succeeding day mentions passing "Payillipa
Bay" and other points along the east side of the Sound, and in the forenoon
"landed on the prairion so much admired by Mr. A. and Ouvrie. It was about
one mile in length and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards in
extent, raised about thirty feet above the sea level, towards which it presented
a steep, clayey bank. Surface flat and dotted with small pines, but soil com-
posed almost entirely of sand. Its breadth was measured from the base of the
steep wooded bank which lines the coast throughout to the margin of the
same. At its northern extremity the coast is indented with a bay five or six
miles wide, and perhaps three long, into which Ouvrie's River flows, described
by him as equal in size to the Cowlitz. On the opposite shore of this bay
was pointed out to me the countries of Sannahomish, Keatchet and Shalatchet
tribes lying in the above order from the mouth of Ouvrie's River, to the point
marking the extremity of the bay. The south side of bay and river is inhabited
by the Tuamish [Duwamish] Indians, of whom we saw several parties along
the coast, miserably poor and destitute of fire arms. The opposite coast of
Sound is possessed by the warlike Soquamish with whose chief all were on
friendly terms. A fort well garrisoned would answer well as a trading post
on the prairie where we stood. It would have an advantage of a fine prospect
down the Sound and of proximity to the Indians but these would not com-
pensate for an unproductive soil and the inconvenience of going at least one-
half mile for a supply of water." The next morning they breakfasted on
parboiled peas eaten with a shell out of a potlid. This place later became known
as Alki Point. No future attempt to establish a post there was made by the
Hudson's Bay Company.
With the completion of Fort Nisqually the old route to the Columbia River
via Eld Inlet, Black River, Chehalis River, Gray's Harbor, Willapa Harbor and
Baker Bay, was abandoned, and henceforth the portage route to the Cowlitz
River was used instead. Every old pioneer is familiar with Cowlitz Landing
and the old road to the northward. This route was the heritage of the Hudson's
Bay Company, and in its day did good service. When the pioneer settler came
to Washington Territory he complained of the trials he had to endure in the
way of poor roads ; had it not been for the work done by the company he
might have been in a worse plight.
In the spring of 1846 the British frigate, Fisgard, forty-two guns, and a
crew of 352 men, under the command of Capt. J. A. Duntz, anchored ati Nis-
cjually. This was just before the settlement of the Oregon question, and Presi-
dent Polk's aggressive policy of "Fifty-four Forty or Fight" had made war a
possibility even if not a probability. Another British vessel of similar mis-
sion, the Modeste, anchored in the Columbia River. The Fisgard was accom-
panied by the paddle-sloop Cormorant, six guns, commanded by G. T. Gordon.
HISTORY OF SEATTLE U
On board the Fisgard was Robert M. Inskip, naval instructor, who proceeded
to erect at Nisqually a naval training station wherein to instruct the young
midshipmen. Most detailed surveys of the upper portion of the Sound were
made by this instmctor and a few new names added to the nomenclature of
that region. The hall wherein the school exercises were held was standing when
the first settlers came to the Sound, and was for a long time known to them as
the "castle of indolence."
Drilish vessels came up and down the Sound and Fort Nisqually became a
place of some consequence. However, the war talk subsided; Polk did not
secure all he wanted, and the Oregon question was peacefully settled by the
Treaty of 1846 by which the Forty-ninth Parallel of north latitude was con-
tinued westward to Puget Sound and the boundary line then drawn through
the lower Sound waters through the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the Pacific Ocean.
By the terms of the treaty the region north of the Columbia River became
United States Territory, and Nisqually and Vancouver lost their sovereign
power. They ceased to be forts, and were subject to the laws of the United
States. The Hudson's Bay Company, and its subsidiary company, the Puget
Sound Agricultural Company, continued to operate these establishments as
private individuals, until the property was purchased by the United States
Government.
Thus passed a great enterprise. It had rendered a great service on the
Sound. It had educated and pacified the Indians for thirty years. The early
pioneers were well treated by the trading posts, which helped many of them
by loans of cattle and advances in foodstufTs to carry them over the unpro-
ductive periods when they were getting started in the world.
Many persons were in charge of Fort Nisqually during its existence. Per-
haps the best known of these was Dr. William Eraser Tolmie. He was born
in Inverness, Scotland, and educated as a naturalist which included medicine
and surgery. Botany was his special study. Under the patronage of Sir Wil-
liam Hooker, the famous naturalist, he secured, in 1832, an appointment with
the Hudson's Bay Company and in company with another appointee, a Mr.
(iairdner, also a naturalist, set sail from London, aboard the Ganymede, and
arrived off Cape Disappointment April 30, 1833. Here he received orders from
Doctor McLoughlin to repair to Milbank Sound to assist in founding of Fort
McLoughlin. While enroute he arrived at Nisqually, and because of an acci-
dent to a valuable employe, Doctor Tolmie was forced to remain there and
treat him. While here, he made the first attempted ascent of Mount Rainier.
In November he reported for his destination. In 1834 he was surgeon with an
expedition under Ogdcn on the Stikene River, then served at Fort Simpson ;
finally goiug to Milbank Sound where he remained until February, 1836, when
he took up his abode as surgeon and trader at Fort Vancouver, remaining until
1840, when he was granted a year's leave of absence. The year 1841 he seems
to have spent in organizing agricultural establishments in the Willamette Val-
ley. In 1841 he returned to England where he remained until 1843, attending
to the agricultural interests of the company. During these years he had
acquired a knowledge of Spanish, having in mind an appointment to the post
at Verba Buena. but upon his return was given the suijerintendency of the
Puget Sound Agricultural Company at Nisqually, where he remained until 1859,
12 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
moving to X'ictoria, but still managing affairs for ijuth the Hudson's Uay
Com])any. antl the Puget Sound Agricultural Company at Nisqually.
The cause of the purchase of Xisqually and other posts of the Hudson's
Bay Company in United States Territory was the antagonism of incoming
settlers who coveted the lands occupied by the company. When Doctor Tolmie
left, Edward Huggins, a clerk, remained as custodian at Nisqually. There
were many attempts at settlement in the '50s. The American Civil war delayed
a settlement, although Secretary of State Seward and Lord Lyons completed
an arbitration treaty in 1863. Under the terms of that treaty a decision was
readied in iSCx). Under its terms the company was paid for its property. Mr.
Huggins became an American citizen, and took over the site of Nisqually as his
homestead which he continued to occuiiy until about ten years ago when he
sold out to the Du Pont Powder Company.
Lly far the most interesting, although the least known of the ex])editions
to the Sound was that of Lieut. Charles Wilkes in 1841. It was this explorer
who. on November 8, 1861, intercepted at sea the English mail steamer Trent
and took off the confederate commissioners James Mason and John Slidell
assigned to France and England. Wilkes was born in New York, April 3,
1798, and entered the navy as a midshipman in 1818, and after successive promo-
tions was given command of the expedition which was to be known as the
United States Exploring Expedition. The oljject of this expedition was scien-
tific, but if the secrets of the war office were known it is quite probable that it
was also political. Wilkes received his instruction August 11, 1838, and sailed
from Norfolk, on the i8th of the same month and year, with a squadron of
\essels consisting of the sloops of war Vincennes and Peacock ; the brig Por-
poise ; the ship Relief ; and the tenders Sea Gull and Flying Fish. His instruc-
tions required him to visit Rio Janeiro. Tierra del Fuego, Valparaiso, the
Na\igator Group, Figi Islands, Hawaiian Islands, the Northwest Coast of North
America. San Francisco, Japan, China, and other places.
Only that ]5ortion of the expedition which has to do with the immediate
vicinity of the City of Seattle is considered. xAfter a cruise of o\er two years
the expedition arrived oft" the mouth of the Columbia River on April 5, 1841 ;
but finding it almost impossible to effect an immediate entry, made its way to
Puget Sound and anchored in Port Discovery May 2. iS4[. Here he dispatched
some Indians to make known his arrival to the Hudson's Bay Company's
officials Anderson and McNeil at Nisqually House, and to secure a pilot to
lead his vessels through the narrow maze of the Sound waters ; but failing to
hear anything from them in due course of time, made his own way cautiously-
southward, when he met the officials and named the place Pilot Cove because it
was here that he secured his pilot. After a short sojourn at Nisqually House,
where he received a cordial welcome, he set his men to work making surveys
of the Sound; he sent out an expedition under Lieutenant Johnson across the
Cascades Mountains and into various parts of what is now the eastern part of
the State of Washington. This party, so far as is known, was the first to
ever pass through the Nachess Pass, although it is reasonably certain that the
Hudson's Bay Company's servants were acquainted with the pass, as two of
their men accompanied Lieutenant Johnson in the capacity of guides. Wilkes,
himself, made an excursion down the Cowlitz River to the Columbia and thence
HISTORY OF SEATTLE i;i
iiuti Oregon ; uliilc aiiotlicr of his lieutenants, Kid, by name, made a trip to
Gray's Harbor and made a survey of the region. Many \ohimes were the
fruits of tliis expedition and much new information was gathcreil by his
eminent scientists, and on ahiiost every subject. Historically the expedition is
of most interest to the people of Seattle because of the surveys which it made.
i'rof. lulniond S. Meany of the University of Washington, in the Sunday edi-
tions of the Seattle Post-Intelligencer for May 23, May 30, and June 6, 1915, gave
a thorough account of the work done in these surveys. His articles are entitled
Origin of Point Defiance and Other Names of Pugct Sound; Origin of deo-
graphical Names in the \icinity of Seattle; and Origin of Geographical Naiues
in the San Juan Archipelago. .\ few of the most imi>ortaiit will be given.
CommeiKement P>ay on which the City of Tacoma is now situated he so called
because it was here that he commenced his work. Point Defiance received its
name from the fact that it commands the narrows "which, if strongly fortified,
woulil bid defiance to any attack and guard its ciilraiice against any force."
Maurv Island was in honor of William L. Maury of the expedition. Golvo's
Passage to the west of Vashon Island was secured from the name of Lieut.
(Icorge W. Colvocoressis, but Wilkes wisely dropi)ed the Greek sounding ap])en-
dix. Hale's Passage was in honor of Horatio Hale, his i)hilologist. I'ox
Nland was in honor of J. J. l'"ox. assistant surgeon of the expedition, .\iider-
son's Island and McNeil Island were named in token of the services received by
Wilkes from them both in providing him with a pilot and in other ways at Nis-
<iually House. Alexander Anderson was a chief factor for the Hudson's I'.ay
C'omiianv, and Capt. William Henn,' McNeil was the .second commander of the
famous steamer Reaver. Carr's Inlet and Case's Inlet for two of his lieutenants.
Ilartstene Island for Lieut. II. J. Hartstene. Other important names he gave
ill the u])per part of the .Sound were: Henderson, Hudd, Eld. Totten and
Ilammersley inlets, in honor of officers aboard his vessels. .\ half hundred
or more of points and capes were likewise named by W ilkes, mo.st of which
l>ersist to this day. P.Iake Island oi)posite Elliott Pay was named in honor of
(ieorge Smith Plake. who had charge of the United States Coast Survey from
1837 to 1848, and who was always more or less in close touch with Wilkes.
Alki Point is a recent name which will be treated on other i)ages ; \\'ilkes named
this point Point Roberts to honor .\rmourer Humphrey Roberts. Elliott P.ay,
on which our city is situated, is in honor of the chaplain of the Vincennes. Rev.
J. 1.. Elliott.
P.efore Wilkes iiuule these surveys it was thought that what is now Bain-
bridge Island was mainland, and it was Wilkes who first m.icle this discovery.
.'Vs Professor Meaily ])oiiited out. the naming of P>,-\iiibridge Isl.ind in honor of a
hero of the War of 1812 brought together a group of names of famous ])er.sonages.
On this island is Port P>lakeley. and what is now Yukon Harbor Wilkes called
P.arron's P.ay. William Bainbridge acted as second for Commodore Stcjihen
Decatur who fought a fatal duel with Barron. Not far from this group of
names the sloop-of-war Decatur was stranded on a reef in 1856, hence the
name of Decatur Reef.
Eagle Harbor was named because of some supposed resemblance to a bird,
and the two capes to the harbor are called P.itl Point and Wing Point. Port
Madison and Points Monroe and Jefferson are all in honor of former pre.si-
14 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
dents of the United States. Port Ludlow was in honor of Lieut. Augustus
Ludlow who was with Captain Lawrence in the famous naval duel between the
Chesapeake and Shannon, in 1813, and who lost his life. He named Appletree
or Apple Cove because he saw supposed apple blossoms on shore. There are
no apple trees but an abundance of dog-wood trees which produce blossoms
which probably deceived him. West Point, which is the north cape of Elliott
Bay, was named by Wilkes. The present passage between Whidby and Camano
Islands is called Saratoga Passage, and many old pioneers can no doubt recall
the time when Camano Island was called McDonough's Island. Wilkes called
the passage Saratoga Passage and the island McDonough's Island. Now Cap-
tain McDonough commanded the expedition which defeated the British squadron
on Lake Champlain, and his ship was the Saratoga. ^McDonough's Island has
disappeared as a term and Camano has taken its place btit the term Saratoga
Passage is meaningless without the knowledge that the Island of Camano once
honored McDonough, her commander.
It is a matter of regret that all the names given by Lieutenant Wilkes can-
not be reproduced. A few names in the present San Juan Archipelago cannot
be passed by. Wilkes was a young naval officer who had entered the service of
the navy in 1818 — too late to take part in the War of 1812. He had read of
all the war heroes and knew their deeds by heart. So he decided to honor them
by placing their names on the various islands, bays, points and mountains in this
archipelago. The largest of the islands, San Juan of the present time, he called
Rogers' Island, in honor of Commodore John Rogers, who as commander of the
President captured the British sloop of war Little Belt. Lopez Island he
called Chauncy's Island for Chauncy was in command of the entire naval forces
operating on the Great Lakes. The most interesting bit of nomenclature history
relates to the naming of places about the present Orcas Island. This island
he called Hull's Island ; West Sound he called Guerriere Bay ; East Sound he
called Ironsides Inlet ; and the large mountain upon the island he termed Mount
Constitution. Only one of these four names has persisted to the present day —
Mount Constitution. The story is simple and known to all readers. Capt.
Isaac Hull commanded the United States frigate Constitution, nicknamed the
Old Ironsides, which captured the British frigate Guerriere. Likewise \\'ilkes
named Fidalgo Island Perrj-'s Island in honor of Commodore Perry who won
the victor}- over the British on Lake Erie, and to the beautiful mountain he
gave the name Mount Erie. Like Mount Constitution Mount Erie is the only
surviving piece of nomenclature. One can almost make a history out of the
nomenclature given by Lieutenant Wilkes among what is today the San Juan
Islands.
Lieutenant Wilkes was interrupted in his work upon the surveys of the
San Juan Islands by a messenger who brought wrird that his ship Peacock had
been wrecked at the entrance to the Columbia River, and he was forced to make
a hurried departure, never to return to the Sound. His account of the expedi-
tion was published in several small editions in the early '40s, but his complete
works took many years before completion and several of the proposed volumes
were abandoned. There were only 100 sets of the complete works pub-
lished and these were distributed to all the friendly powers and one set to each
state and territory then in the Union. Portions of the \vorks are now in the
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 15
state library at Olympia. Unfortunately, the historical part of the expedition
is brief; and the scientist part more voluminous. The Atlas of Charts, however,
is remarkable, considering the time which was spent and the instruments at
hand. Wilkes made the first calculation of the height of Mount Rainier. From
I'uget Sound he departed to the Columbia River where he was regarded with
suspicion and even hatred by the sturdy pioneers who wanted to see an Amer-
ican Government in Oregon, and to whom Wilkes was not verj' sympathetic.
From Oregon the party went to California and then left to cross the Pacific
Ocean.
In the light of later events it appears that Wilkes never regarded Elliott
Bay as remarkable. Of the harbor he made a detailed map, but he did this of
many harbors about the Sound both good and bad. In his narrative he has no
word of description about the harbor. He seems to have regarded the up])er
portion of the Sound most favorably, at least from the militar)' standpoint. But
this is going to be the case with most of our early discoverers, pioneers, explorers
and others. Seattle was not located or planned. It arose because of inherent
commercial advantages which had to be learned by later promoters through
experience.
W'ilkes' was the last of the exploring expeditions, and the Hudson's Bay
Company, despite the fact that it made a pretense as an agent of civilization,
was in reality nothing more than a frontier post. With them we pass from the
history of the wilderness to the history of civilization, of the farmer, settler and
manufacturer.
The early '40s witnessed the coming of that class of persons whose activities
formed the basis for our great cities on the Sound. In the fall of 1849 Samuel
Hancock, started from Olympia in a canoe with a crew of Indians, in search
of coal, which he had been informed had been noted at several points along the
Sound. He says : "The first night we camped at the mouth of the Puyallup
River. We left here and proceeded slowly northward, for the prevailing winds
are so violent at this season that at times it is unsafe to travel in canoes. My
Indians were an.xious to stop, but I insisted on continuing, though the wind was
now blowing a half gale, and they seemed a good deal alarmed for our safety.
I lowever, we reached Alki Point, an excellent harbor against the prevailing
winds in winter, without accident. [This journal was prepared for publication
in i8(X), but never ]niblished. The notes were taken from day to day by Mr.
1 lancock. This will explain why he mentions "Alki Point" years before its
naming.] A great many Indians came from their houses to the beach here to
ascertain where we came from. All the Indians I have met with in this region
have a great deal of curiosity, and they are certain to know very soon after
your arrival amongst them all that the Indians who are with you are in posses-
sion of in relation to jx)u. So they were soon pretty well posted in regard to
me; indeed, such was the nature of my business that I desired they should know,
as I expected to derive considerable information from them about the coal.
As they seemed well disposed, I opened my valise and gave them all presents,
to llie men pipes and tobacco, to the women small looking-glasses and brass
rings."
From Alki Point he went down the Sound and during his explorations he
went up the Snohomish River and visited and described the falls of the Snoqual-
16 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
mic. the first recorded account, though the visit of Capt. Robert Fay was made
about the same time, probably.
In tlie fall of 1850 Col. I. N. Ebey wrote from Olympia to M. T. Sim-
mons an account of an exploration he had recently made of the valleys of the
Puyallup and Duwamish rivers.
He gave a vivid and truthful description of the rich Puyallup Valley as far
as where the Aluckleshute Indian Reservation was afterward established. Com-
ing on down the Sound he entered this bay which he called the Duwams. His
party ascended the crooked ri\er that he also called the Duwams to the forks.
What is now called Black River he spoke of as a continuation of the main
stream. He says :
"The river meanders along through rich bottom land, not heavily timbered,
with here and there a beautiful plain of unrivaled fertility, peeping out through
a fringe of vine maple, alder or ash. or boldly presenting a view of their
native richness and undying verdure. Other plains of more extensive character
are represented as being near at hand, and of sufficient fertility to satisfy the
most fastidious taste.
"At a distance of about twenty miles from the bay the river forks — the
right fork bears the name of Duwams. It has its source about ten miles to
the north in a large clear lake [Lake Washington]. This stream has an aver-
age width of about twenty yards. The country along its banks partakes of the
same character as that lower down the river. A few miles of this stream will
be found quite rapid, offering many fine opportunities for mill privileges. Sand-
stones of a good quality for building materials make their appearance along this
stream. The lake from which this stream has its source is of considerable extent,
surrounded princijially with woodland, consisting of cedar, fir. ash. oak, etc.
It \aries in width from one to six miles. 1 traveled on it to the north a dis-
tance of more than twenty miles without finding its terminus. The water is
clear and very deep ; from the beauty of the lake and the scenery surrounding
it we christened it b}- the name of Geneva. Another lake of less extent lies
about six miles east of Gene\a, and connected with it by a small stream.
"Between Geneva Lake and Admiralty Inlet there appears an extensive coun-
trv of low lan<l that has never been examined by white men. and wdien examined
I ha\e no doubt will be found very valuable. The distance from the Inlet to
Geneva Lake in many places cannot exceed a few miles, as the Indians make
portages across with their canoes."
Colonel Ebey also went up the valley of what is now called White River,
but did not give it a name. He intersected his former trail up the Puyallup.
CHAPTER II
THE I'lUXHKK I'F.RIOD
The history of Seattle began September 2!~t. 1S51, wlieii the vanguard of the
lirst settlement at Alki Point arrived tiiere. The settlement on the Duwamish
River two weeks earlier was only a farming enterprise, and their claims were
l)eyond Seattle's boundaries for thirty years or more.
\\'hen they left their homes in the East the majority of the settlers at
Alki and Seattle intended to locate in the W'illametle \alley, but on reaching the
country west of the mountains they heard so much al>out the Sound country
that they determined to investigate it sooner or later.
While the members of the pioneer party were at Portland, John X. Low and
David T. Denny, who were on the lookout for homes, set out for Puget Sound
after they had driven T.ow's cattle to the Chehalis \'alley for winter range.
Arthur A. Denny, the elder brother, and the leading spirit in the expedition
which had crossed the plains from Illinois, had heard so much of the Sound
country that he decided to becxDine better acquainted with it before deciding to
settle elsewhere, but an attack of ague made it necessary for him to remain at
Portland while his brother and Low went on ahead.
.\t ( )lympia the two were joined by Lee Terry and Capt. Robert C. Fay.
and the four came on to the Duwamish River on a prospecting tour. They
spent their first night under the trees on the promontory of what is now West
Seattle, called Sgwudux i)y the Indians. The next morning Low, Denny and
Terry hired two young Indians of Chief Seattle's band to take them to the
Duwamish River in a canoe.
.-\fter ascending the Duwamish several miles Low and Terry landed and set
out over an Indian trail to look at the country, leaving Denny to follow in the
canoe with the Indians. As they did not appear when night set in Denny
landed and camped for the night at a jilace afterward known as Maple Prairie.
Mis companions arrived the next morning in a canoe which they had obtained
from the Indians at the mouth of Black River. The party returned to Sgwudux.
where they remained during the night of the 27lh. In the evening a scow passed
them on the way to a settlement which had been made a few days earlier by
Luther M. Collins, Ilenry Van Asselt and the father and son, Jacob and Samuel
Maple, on the banks of the Duwamish River. Two women, the wife and daugh-
ter of Collins, conversed in Chinook with Captain I-'ay. On September 28th the
party moved their camj) to Alki Point, where a ])ermanent settlement was
begun.
They made up their minds that they had reached the end of their journey.
Terry and Low iuul visions, and in their enthusiasm they determined that
some day a city would build itself back of the point. It is not strange that this
place that later was called .\lki should have been selected by these earliest set-
17
18 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
tiers for a townsite. It was either a natural prairie or the timber had mostly
been burned off. This made it easy to put up the first buildings. The beach
was sandy and gravelly and the upland easily accessible. It had an unobstructed
view of the Sound northward and southward and of the Olympic Mountains.
The few sailing craft then visiting the upper Sound passed near it, and the
smaller boats and canoes made of it a convenient port of call. Elliott Bay was
guiltless of settlers and there was then nothing that attracted visitors. The
point was well protected from southerly storms but the small craft that har-
bored there soon found it dangerous when the winds and waves swept in from
the north.
They erected a rude shelter to protect them while they put up a more pre-
tentious cabin. Their townsite was called by them New York but visitors
smiled and said, "Yes, by-and-by." This was translated into its Chinook
equivalent, "Alki," and ere long that was its only name.
Captain Fay had been on the Sound for some time and was the owner of the
boat on which they had come from Olympia. While they had made their pros-
pecting trip up the river he had gone on down the Sound looking for a good
place at which to put up salmon to ship to San Francisco. He returned on the
28th and spent the night with Low, Denny and Terr}-. It was in compliance
with his advice that the first houses were put up with logs instead of split cedar
boards because they would oft'er greater protection from bullets in case of
troubles with the Indians.
Low immediately hired Denny to remain on the claim with Terry while he
returned to Portland for his family. He carried with him a letter from David
Denny to his brother urging him "to come at once."
The first structure erected at Alki Point was a brush shelter made with
boughs laid over a pole stipported by crotched sticks. Here Terry and Denny
slept while they began the erection of the first log cabin, the foundations of
which were laid September 28, 185 1. In the construction of Seattle's first
building they enlisted the services of the Indians who had already begun to con-
gregate there, giving them in payment bread and trinkets. While they were
thus engaged Luther M. Collins and an Indian passed along the beach driving
oxen to Collins' claim. These are believed to be the first draught animals brought
into King Count}^ Early in November Collins again passed on his way to
Olympia with his scow, and Terry joined him, leaving young David alone on
the claim among the Indians to continue work on the cabin and complete it
if possible before the arrival of the main party from Portland.
At this time the schooner Exact, Captain Folger, was fitting at Portland for
a voyage to Queen Charlotte Island with gold prospectors, intending to touch
at the Sound with emigrants. The party determined to take passage on her.
She sailed on November 5, 1851, and cleared at Astoria on the 7th. On Novem-
ber 13th the schooner dropped anchor off the point and there disembarked
from her the party that founded Seattle. David Denny was glad to see them.
Just previous to their arrival some skunks had invaded his quarters and par-
taken so generously of his rations that there was little left for him to eat. Mr.
Denny says, "Our first work was to provide shelter for the winter and we fin-
ished the work begun by my brother and Lee Terry for J. N. Low." Thus the
first house was built for Mr. Low. D. T. Denny was hired to assist in the con-
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 19
stniction, had no ownership rights either in the claim, the house, or the town-
site, all up to this time being owned by Low alone or by Low and Lee Terry
jointly. In the party were twelve adults and twelve children, A. A. Denny and
family, John N. Low and family, C. D. Borcn and family, W. N. Bell and
family, and Charles C. Terry, who with Lee Terry and David T. Denny
brought the number of adults up to twelve.
After the Low house was finished it was occupied by the others in order to
avoid the rain which was falling ever)' day. The second house was a log struc-
ture for A. A. Denny which increased the house-room so that all were com-
fortable. With the construction of this house the timber adjacent suitable for
log houses was exhausted, whereupon the settlers split cedar puncheons and
built houses for Bell and Boren. These were considered quite fancy but not as
substantial as the log houses. The winter quarters were no sooner completed
than commerce found the little colony and there commenced the trading that
has since made Seattle one of the well known seaports of the world.
In December, 1851, the brig Leonesa, Capt. Daniel S. Howard, dropped
anchor off the little settlement seeking a cargo of piles. The settlers took the
contract to load his vessel and while the rest of the men and boys devoted
themselves to taking out piles and hauling them out by hand, Lee Terry went
to Puyallup and secured a yoke of oxen, which he drove to Alki Point along the
beach. After the arrival of the cattle the contract was speedily completed.
During their first winter on the Sound Denny, Boren and Bell explored the
surrounding countrj- and early in 1852 seriously took up the task of selecting
claims for ihemselves, for their cabins had been erected on the land of Lee Terry
and Low. Accordingly they examined the coast toward Puyallup, but not lik-
ing the prospect in that direction began to examine the country around Elliott
Bay. They realized that the life of the settlement would depend upon its abil-
ity to sell piles and timber, for there were several other thriving settlements on
Puget Sound and a market had already been established. A harbor, therefore,
was essential; in fact it was the important consideration, for the land was
pretty much alike in all directions.
They used a canoe as their craft, and Bell and Boren handled the paddles.
With a bunch of horseshoes attached to a heavy line, Arthur Denny "heaved
the lead," and noted the soundings which convinced them that Elliott Bay
offered the greatest promise. They began their work about daylight, passing
over to the north shore and taking soundings from .Smith's Cove southward.
The water proved very deep in the bay and they were forced to keep close to
the shore for quite a distance for the line to reach bottom. Stopping at a
spring near the beach, they rested for a time. As he looked over the bluflt
Mr. Denny observed a break in the forest. Thinking this indicated a break
in the continuous woods, he climbed up the bank to discover a gently sloping
hillside over which a fire had passed, deadening the trees. Some of these,
particularly the alders, of which there were many at that particular place, had
fallen over, leaving an opening. It was this place, which by his right of dis-
covery, he afterwards ciiose for his home. During the afternoon the party
paddled south, up the bay. As they passed slowly along the shore from their
noon resting place, they saw the bluff diminish in height, lowering from thirty
or forty feet down to fifteen, and, in less than half a mile, to only five feet or
20 HISTORY OF SEATTLE |
!
less. Then it disappeared, and they came upon a little crooked tide stream, ',
with muddy banks and salt grass on the margin along the tiny meadow. Xear
this point was a curious circular knoll thirty or forty feet high, with steep
sides. Beyond was obser\ed an Indian house, no longer inhabited, partly I
overgrown with wild rose bushes, which flourished along the shore. It stood i
near the present corner of First Avenue South and Yesler Way. South of i
the little tide stream they coasted past a low wooded flat but a few feet above j
tide water. They continued their voyage around the head of the bay, reaching
liome by nightfall, not only well pleased with the excursion, but thoroughly
satisfied as to the fitness of the bay as a harlxjr and the promise of its eastern
shore for a home. Thus they explored for timber, harbor and feed for live i
stock, and finally on February 15, 1832, marked three claims in one body at '
the present heart of Seattle. The southern boundary was fixed at what is
now King Street and First .\venue South. This was the .southern boundary '
of the claim of C. D. Boren. Next north was the claim of A. A. Dennv, and 1
north of this claim was that of W. N. Bell, all fronting on the Sound. .\ |
little later D. T. Denny located his claim north of Bell's, fronting on the
.'sound and on Lake L'nion as well. Each claim embraced about three hundred j
and twenty acres. All were in township 25 north, range 4 east, Willamette j
Meridian, though the land, of course, had not been surveyed, nor obtained by |
treaty from the Indians. .
Aleanwhile there were neighbors to the south along the banks of the Duwa- 1
mish. who were to have a vital interest in the making of the city, and we must ',
go back for a niiinite to pick up the incidents which brought them in touch |
with the first settlers here. On September 14. 1851. Luther M. Collins, Henry j
\'an Asselt. Jacob Maple and his son Sanuiel. whose names have already been
mentioned, arrived at the mouth of the Duwamish River, having come over-
land from the Columbia River to the Sound. At Olympia they hired two
Indians and a canoe, and after two days of travel reached their destination.
They made the first settlement in King County.
The four men took claims; Luther M. Collins, who with his wife and two I
children, had first settled in the Puyallup \'alley, the nearest the mouth of the
river; Jacob Maple next; above him, Samuel Maple; and adjoining him on |
the south, Henry \'an Asselt. On the claim of the latter the city plant of !
the Denny-Renton Clay and Coal Company is now located. They experienced !
much difficulty in bringing their live stock to their new location. .\ scow
used at first proved unequal to the task and was abandoned. The animals
were then driven along the tide flats with great difficulty and not a little ;
danger. They finally arrived at Alki Point and soon reached the place after- |
ward called Milton and still later named West Seattle. But it was found that '
the mud flats could not be traversed, neither could the woods, so the scow was
again brought into use, and the animals were finally landed in safety at Col- '
lins' claim. They then returned to Nisqually and moved the Collins family !
down and built cabins on their claims. Mr. Denny said their permanent loca- I
tion was made September 14, 1851 ; but E. B. Maple claimed that it was made ,
June 22, 1851, on the day of their first arrival. Other settlers on the river ]
later were G. Holt, G. Hograve and William Ralston, whose claims were where 1
South Park now is. >
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 21
For a time Mayiiard had carried on a small merchandising in Olympia.
where he had made friends of his customers but not of his competitors in a
business way. The doctor had done a good deal of traveling about the Sound
and made the acquaintance of large numbers of Indians. He had gained the
friendship and confidence of Chief Seattle, after whom the village was named,
and was persuaded by him that this region was a most favorable trading point.
Maynard was not long in deciding to make the change. He put all his unsold
stock on a scow, anil with Indians as his only companions set sail down (he
Sound. On his arri\al at .\lki he found most of the settlers there arranging
to remove to the eastern shore of Elliott I'.ay. These urged him to join them,
which Maynard soon decided to do. By mutual agreement he selected the most
southerly claim, its northerly line meeting Boren's at Yesler Way.
.\t that time the 'T'oint," as it was soon called, was an island at times of
full tide, of about eight acres in extent. .\t Washington Street the inlet
extended across First Avenue South from al>out Railroad Avenue. From First
.\venue South eastward it covered ,i nuich wider space and then narrowed
again near the present Union Dejjot. Thence westerly along the general course
of King Street to Railroad Avenue; thence northerly to Washington Street.
It was covered with a heavy growth of fir and cedar and the usual dense under-
brush. The sawdust and waste from Vesler's mill were used to fill in the low
ground at Washington Street and the flow of the tides was soon shut ofT, but
it was more than thirty years later when it was shut out at the easterly inlet.
-Maynard's official land entry named April 3, 1852. as his date of settlemeiU.
\\ ith his accustomed energy he at once set to work to provide himself with a
store building, availing himself of white and Indian labor, and in a few days
was selling goods in it. It was eighteen feet wide and twenty-six long, with an
attic in the front half of it. The walls were of logs and the roof of shakes,
the usual name for s])lit boards about four feet long. It stood at the present
northwest corner of First Avenue South and Main Street. The unbroken
forest was a few' feet away on the east and the steep bank above tidewater on
the west. The stores of that jieriod included under one roof the necessaries
of pioneer life as far as attainable, clothing, hardware, groceries, tools, ship
chandlery, and Maynard's was the first of its kind in Seattle, although Low and
Terry had conducted a similar business at .\lki.
.Among his other activities he immediately set to work to put up salmon for
shipment. That season he sent to San Francisco nearly one thousand barrels of
salted salmon. The barrels were made on the ground where they were packed,
though where he got the coopers is not recorded. Procuring the fish was a
simpler matter, as the Indians supplied him with all he could use. On its arrival
in .San Francisco most of the shipment was found to be spoiled, and his venture
prove<l almost a total loss.
During this time he had men skilled with the broadax squaring timbers, and
others cutting piles and shaving shingles. A cargo of these was shipped to San
Francisco on the brig Franklin .\dams; 12,000 lineal feet of squared timbers,
S.ooo lineal feet of piles. 10,000 shingles, and 30 cords of wood. All of this
cargo found a ready market at good prices and from il he more than recouped
his losses on the salmon.
In the Columbian Maynard's advertisement of the "Seattle Exchange" appears
22 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
later as follows: "The subscriber is now receiving direct from London and
New York, via San Francisco, a general assortment of dry goods, groceries,
hardware, etc., suitable for the wants of immigrants just arriving. Remember,
first come, first served. Seattle, October 30, 1852."
He also advertised for a blacksmith and promised him constant employment.
At the time of these pioneer settlements all the northern part of the Sound
country was included within Thurston County. Col. Isaac N. Ebey was the
only member from Thurston County of the Legislature which met in Salem, in
the Willamette Valley, in December, 1852, his colleague having resigned. Colo-
nel Ebey introduced bills to have Pierce, King, Jefferson and Island counties set
off from Thurston, and these bills became laws during that session.
In July, 1852, the commissioners of Thurston erected a voting precinct and a
school district here and named it Dewamps. All of the eastern shore of Puget
Sound north of the Puyallup River was within its limits.
At an election that fall Arthur A. Denny received all of the votes in the pre-
cinct and was elected to a seat in the Legislature, but he never took his seat. The
election was December 7th. The Legislature convened at the same time. The
official returns were so slow in reaching the capital that the Legislature had
adjourned before he could receive his certificate and reach Salem.
The Columbian was then the only newspaper published north of the Columbia
River and in politics it was ardently democratic. It spoke about the election at
the time, but as Mr. Denny was of the opposite party the paper did not publish
the fact of his election.
On April 3, 1852, Bell, Boren's family and Doctor Maynard moved from
Alki to their claims, leaving behind A. A. Denny, who was too ill from ague to
come over until a house could be built. At first Bell camped on the north side
and Boren on the south side of the claims, continuing thus until they could build
cabins. This they soon did and then built one for A. A. Denny at what is now
the intersection of Western Avenue and Battery Street. This location was unde-
sirable, and a little later Denny built another residence at the northeast comer of
First Avenue and Marion Street. The united claims were so divided that each
could have access to the Sound and the claims were made as nearly equal as
possible.
Had the first settlers on the east side of the bay been seeking farms they
would not have chosen their claims where they did. The prospect of clearing
off the heavy timber that extended from the banks overlooking the Sound every-
where to the lakes would have appalled them ; but as this forest was to be the
means of affording them a livelihood for years, it was calculated to attract rather
than to repel them. The estimate that the clearing of the forest and underbrush
from the present site of Seattle has cost more than all the filling in of the tide
flats is a modest one. Not even the actual excavation of the earth during the
progress of the city's numerous regrades has amounted in cost to the sum total
in%TDlved in removing the trees and their enormous roots. No great city on the
American continent has overcome so many natural obstacles encountered in its
growth. The expense of clearing the land, leveling down the hills and filling up
the waters of the bay and the lakes, together with the enormous added cost of
sewer tunnels, intercepting and trunk sewers, to keep the sewage out of the lakes
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 23
and carry it six or eight miles off to the Sound, make an aggregate that must
have reached twenty, perhaps twenty-live, niilhons of dollars.
So quickly was it known after the hegira from Alki began that Seattle was
soon to have a sawmill that only a few log cabins were put up, perhaps eight or
ten, and only a couple of these, Maynard's store and Ycsler's cookhouse, were
of considerable size. .Ml of these but the cookhouse disappeared during the
later '50s.
The type of log cabin of the American, pioneers has not greatly changed
since the landing of the pilgrims. Usually it was about sixteen feet square. At
each end of the logs the upper side was hewed into triangular shape ; the next
tier had notches cut in tliem on the lower side to fit closely over the lower logs.
About eight feet from the ground, at each end- of the structure, the logs were
carried up from four to si.x feet farther and gradually shortened and sloped
toward the ridge. On these were laid, three or four feet apart, substantial
rafters, to hold the shake roof. The shakes were usually held in place by poles
placed over each rafter and the two substantially fastened together with wooden
pins. .Xfter the logs for the cabin had been brought on the ground and fitted
for use it was the custom for the neighbors to aid in rolling lliem into ])lace by
means of "skids," or long poles.
With ax, adze or broadax. two or three augers, drawshave and a handsaw,
wonders were accomplished in building and furnishing these cabins. Often not
a i)iece of metal entered into their construction. Between the logs they were
first "chinked" with moss, and this was held in place by strips of wood outside
and inside, though often clay served the same ptirpose. Where straight-grained
logs could be secured "puncheons" were split and hewed into a semblance of
smoothness, and out of these the floor, tables, benches, stools and door were
fashioned. Often the latter was made with an upper and lower section, and was
a trium])h of art and strength, with hinges and bars equally calculated to resist
all ordinary methods of breaking it open. At one end the bar worked on a
pivot and at the other end it dropped into a notch. At this end a strong leathern
thong was fastened and its free end passed through a hole above in the door. By
tliis sini])Ie expedient the door could easily be barred or unbarred. In peaceful
times the thong was not drawn in at night, and from this custom the phrase
originated, "The latch-string is always out." equivalent to open-handed hospi-
tality. The door with its two sections served a double purpose. When the
upper section was open the interior was well \entilated and also lighted, after a
fashion. By keeping the lower section closed the dogs, pigs and chickens were
kc[)t out and the babies kept in. Some of the cabins boasted at least one small
window with glass panes, though often instead of glass it had thin cotton cloth
or even strong white paper oiled to make it semi-transparent. In the cabin
where the writer was bom in Illinois the oiled paper served this purpose.
Wherever most convenient an opening was left in the wall to a height of
about six feet from the ground and the same width. Into this the face of the
fireplace was fitted and the chimney built outside reaching above the peak of
the roof. If stones suitable for the purpose could be obtained they were used,
but more often sticks were laid neatly one above the other, forming a crib, and
on the inner face of the fireplace and chimney a coating of clay was liberally
» 1. 1—3
24 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
plastered. After lires had been kept for a time the clay hardened and not often
required patching or to be removed.
At night many primitive methods of lighting were in use to supplement the
firelight in the open hearth. Pitchwood, tallow dips and fish oil lamps were in
frequent use. Even a shallow dish filled with oil in which one end of a wick or
piece of cotton cloth was immersed and the other end lighted served at times to
partially dispel the darkness.
Sixty years ago the kerosene lamp first made its appearance on the Pacific
Coast, and was regarded by its fortunate possessor as the ultimate in convenience
and dazzling brightness. The depravity of the gas meter was then unknown
and electric lighting undreamed of, also the exactions of the plumber and the
building regulations of later years vexed not the soul of the householder.
Pins driven into holes in the walls sujjported substantial shelves for the
dishes and the few articles of clothing that might be in use. Longer pegs, held
up at the inner ends by uprights driven into the earth or in holes in the floor,
supported long strips of split boards, and on these were laid cedar boughs, moss
from the trees or dried fern or grass. On such a mattress were spread the
blankets, and no sweeter slumber now comes to the couch of down than visited
the pioneer in his rude bunk in the olden time.
The crane in the fireplace, the bakeoven on the hearth for the bread, and the
reflector for the biscuit, all were a part of the household economy. Soap was
made out of grease and lye; ax handles and brooms were whittled from ash, oak
or maple sticks; much of the cobbling, as well as carding of wool, spinning of
yarn and knitting of socks and stockings, was done in each household. "Quilting
bees" among the women and "log-rolling" among the men were about the only
opportunities for relaxation and social enjoyment. On such occasions the neigh-
bors gathered from near and far to take part in them.
A most vivid presentation of the conditions existing here in the early days
is made in Inez Denny's "Blazing the Way," from which several paragraphs are
extracted :
"These primitive habitations were necessarily scattered, as it was imperative
that they should be placed so as to perfect the titles of the donation claims.
Sometimes two settlers were able to live near each other when they held adjoin-
ing claims, others were obliged to live several miles away from the main settle-
ment and far from a neighbor, in lonely, unprotected places.
"What thoughts of the homes and friends they had left many weary leagues
behind visited these lonely cabin dwellers !
"The husband was engaged in clearing, slashing and burning log heaps, cut-
ting timber, hunting for game to supply the larder, or away on some errand to
the solitary neighbor's or distant settlement. Often during the livelong day the
wife was alone, occupied with domestic toil, all of which had to be performed
by one pair of hands, with only primitive and rude appliances; but there were
no incompetent servants to annoy, social obligations were few, fashion was
remote and its tyranny unknown ; in short, many disagreeable things were lacking.
The sense of isolation was intensified by frequently recurring incidents in which
the dangers of pioneer life became manifest. The dark, mysterious forest might
send forth from its depths at any moment the menace of savage beast or relent-
less man.
I
HISTORY OF SEATTT.F. 25
"The big grey tiinher wolf still roamed the woods, although it soon disap-
peared before the oiiconiing \va\e of invading settlers. Generally quite shy,
they required some unusual attraction to induce them to display their voices.
'"On a dark winter nif,dit in 1853 the lonely cabin of D. T. and Louisa Denny
was visited by a pair of these voracious beasts, met to discuss the remains of a
cow. beltjnging to W. N. Bell, which had stuck fast among .some tree roots and
• lied in the edge of the clearing. How they did snarl and howl, making the
woods and waters resound with their cries as they greedily devoured the carcass.
"The pioneer couple who occupied the cabin entered no objection and were
very glad of the protection of the solid walls of their primitive domicile. The
next day Mr. Denny, with dog and gun, went out to Innil them, but they had
departed to some remote region.
"On anotiier occasion the young wife lay sick and alone in the cabin above
mentioned and a good neighbor, Mrs. Sarah Bell, came to visit her, bringing
some wild pheasant eggs the men had found while cutting spars. While the
women chatted, an Indian came and stood idly looking in over the half-door and
his companion lurked in the brush near by.
"Jolm Kanem, a brother of the chief, Pat Kanem, afterward told the occu-
pants of the cabin that these Indians had divulged their intention of murdering
them in order to rob their dwelling, but abandoned the project, giving as a reason
that a "haluimi kloochman' (another or unknown woman) was there and the
man was away.
"Surely a kind Pro\ idence watched over these unprotected ones that they
might in after years fulfill their destiny."
In October, 1852, H. L. Yesler, of Portland, arrived at Seattle in search of
a suitable location for a sawmill. The point on the bay where the claims of
Boren and Maynard joined (now Pioneer Place) suited him, and as none of the
claims had yet been filed at the land office in Oregon City, the two settlers,
Maynard and Boren, agreed to surrender to him a strip of land where their
locations joined in order to give him a water frontage for his claim and at the
same time secure a sawmill, a very important industry for the contemplated
village. .Ml the settlers were willing to make concessions, sacrifices, in order
to expand the settlement. The plat of the proposed village and the name were
agreed upon before the arrival of Mr. Yesler, so that his name did not appear
as one of the proprietors of the first town plat.
When Yesler's mill started, in 1853, the first logs were furnished by Doctor
Maynard. Hillory Butler and William Gilliam had the contract to take these
logs to the mill from a tract adjacent to First Avenue South and Main Street,
which they did, rolling them down with handspikes. Doctor Maynard designed
to lay out lots where these logs were cut. George F. Frye, Edward Hanford,
John C. Holgate, T. D. Hinckley, David Phillips and Jack Harvey helped supply
the mill with logs during the first few years. When white help was lacking
Mr. Yesler employed the Indians. George Frv-e was Mr. Yesler's sawyer, anfl
his engineers at the different times were T. D. Hinckley, I-. V. Wyckoff, John J.
Moss and William Douglas. A. A. and D. T. Denny also worked in this mill,
as did nearly all of the early residents. Lumber from this mill was sent to
China anfl other foreign ports, as well as to San Francisco.
On Xovember 19, 1852, Dr. D. S. Maynard. justice of the peace, married.
26 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
at Seattle, John Bradley and Mary Relyea, both of Steilacoom. This was prob-
ably the lirst marriage ceremony performed in Seattle and in King County.
During the year 1852 the settlers spent their time building homes, planting
gardens, getting out piles and timber, and providing for the care of live stock.
Several vessels visited the Sound settlements that year, among them the brig
Franklin Adams, Captain Felker, and the brig John Davis, Captain Plummer.
Each vessel carried a stock of general merchandise from which the settlers
secured their earliest supplies. During the winter of 1852-53, which was very
severe, there were several months when vessels did not visit the Sound settle-
ments and the settlers suffered greatly in consecjuence. Late in 1852 Air. Denny
paid $90 for two barrels of pork and S20 for one barrel of flour. One of the
barrels of pork was tost on the beach. The settlers lived on potatoes, fish,
venison, sugar, syrup, tea, coffee. Flour sold at one time during the winter as
high as S40 a barrel. Flour came from Chili, sugar mostly in mats from China,
and pork and butter around The Horn from the Atlantic cities. On one occa-
sion A. A. Denny and J. N. Low went to Fort Nisqually in a big canoe propelled
by four Indians and returned with fifty bushels of little red Indian potatoes,
which were heaped up on green hides in the bottom of the canoe.
It was not only difficult to travel in early days, but was difficult to live. The
high cost of living was then burdensome as now. In the winter of ^852-53
flour sold in Portland at from $20 to S24 a barrel, and Ijutter at $1.50 a pound.
At Olympia flour was $25 a barrel; potatoes, $2.50 a bushel; and beef, 16 cents
a pound. But as a compensation, in San Francisco squared timbers sold at $45
and sawed lumber at $70 per 1,000 feet.
One of the arrivals of 1852 was Dr. Henry A. Smith, for whom Smith's
Cove was named, and who was the innocent creator of a joke that went down
in the annals of the city. In the course of his work of settlement he started
out one day to blaze a trail from the co\e which still bears his name to the
Milage of Seattle, became lost without knowing it and described a huge circle
which brought him to his own back fence. Here he sat for some time and
reflected on the similarity between this strange clearing and his own. The story
was too good to keep, and Seattle laughed at him for many a day.
Another important arrival of the same year was George N. McConaha, a
lawyer by profession. He had come from Missouri, first to Sacramento, where
he was esteemed as one of the brightest men at the bar. Hoping to win higher
honors here, he came to the territory in 1852, and was elected from King and
Pierce counties a member of the Council of the First Territorial Legislature,
and was chosen president of that body.
There seems to be no record of the exact time that the name Seattle was
chosen by the founders for the new town. However, it had become well
known by that name as early as the fall of 1852. The first few settlers realized
the importance of selecting a name that would reflect credit on the metropolis
they hoped some day to build and various suggestions were made. It was found
that some of the land upon which the city now stands already was known by
name, the Indian words Mukinkum and Tsehalalitch having been applied to
some of it. The Thurston County officials, being under the necessity of giving
the precinct some name by which it could have a place in the official records,
called it Dewamps, from which the modern name Duwamish was evolved.
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 27
There was at the head of a colony of IncHans who lived in the neighbor-
hood of the new settlement a dig^iilied old chief by name Seattle. He was
popular among all the whites, and as his name was short and euphonious the
movement to name the town after him gained some headway. The sentiment
was crystallized May 23, 1853, when the plats were fded under the name "Town
of Seattle." The chief was not moved to emotional depths that made any ripple
on his usual dignified bearing when he became acquainted with the fact that the
honor had been conferred upon him. but throughout the remainder of his life
he continued to manifest his friendship for the whites upon every occasion, and
no one ever regretted that his name was adopted as that of the great city that
subsequently replaced the forests in which he and his braves pursued game.
Thomas Mercer left his family in Salem during the winter of 1852-53 and
came o\er to Puget Sound to investigate conditions here, and he was so well
satisfied with the village that he went back and in the spring brought his family
with him. Dexter Horton and wife were members of the same party. They
arrived here in April, 1853. Even though they then gave no indication of the
prominent part they were later to play in the development of the city, their
arrival was one of the most exciting things that had occurred in the settlement,
for Mercer brought a team of horses and a wagon. Mercer speedily became
."^cattle's entire transfer system, and by adding dairying to his teaming grew to
be an important factor in the life of the town. He took up a donation claim, the
eastern end of which was the meander line of Lake Union, and what is now
known as Mercer Street was the dividing line between his claim and that of
D. T. Denny.
There is no contemporaneous published record of early events in this region,
save here and there an advertisement or a paragraph in the Olympia papers,
excepting the official account of the Indian war. Seattle's first newspaper did
not appear until the fall of 1863; the men were mostly all too busy to keep
diaries. Arthur A. Denny's charming little book was published in 1888. Fred
Grant's history of Seattle was written about 1890, and published the following
year. Nearly all the pioneers were then living and its facts were obtained first
hand, and are well and accurately presented. Inez Denny had her father's
diary to consult and her own memory and that of other members of her family
older than she to aid her in writing "Blazing the Way." Thomas W. Prosch
liad access to the diary of Doctor Maynard and the valuable personal aid of
Mrs. Maynard while preparing his monograph of David S. Maynard. These
four l)ooks are almost the only original sources extant, and under strict historical
interpretation even they do not fall within the category, but their substantial
accuracy is indubitable. Personal acquaintance with nearly all the first local
pioneers and much knowledge of those early days, and of the actors amid them,
has led to frequent and copious selections from their pages. It was a sad
coincidence that the author of two of these four books should have been drowned,
though Mr. Prosch did not meet with the fate that befell his one-time friend
and companion, Fred J. Grant, until twenty years later.
Previous to the appearance of the white settlers the Alki site had not been
a general camping ground for the Indians, but they soon began to come and
build rude houses near those of the whites until it is claimed over one thousand
were there. They were friendly and seemed to regard their location near the
28 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
whites a protection against their Indian enemies, and the whites did not object
for fear of offending them.
The first store in King County was opened at Alki Point in November, 1851,
and Charles C. Terry was the pioneer merchant. From notes in a httle menioran-
.dum book of his that has been preserved it appears he had the ftarethonght to
secure a small lot of merchandise in Portland and have it shipped around on the
Exact at the time the families were brought to Alki. The list includes the fol-
lowing: I box tinware, I box axes, i box tobacco, I keg brandy, I keg whisky,
I box raisins. Terry lost no time in putting up a little cabin in which to display
his goods. In addition to his Portland shipment he had bought from a trading
schooner 25 barrels pork, 3,500 pounds flour, 150 gallons molasses, 800 pounds
hard bread, i case boots, i case brogan shoes, i bale domestic, i dozen pieces
prints, I cask whisky, 6 dozen hickory shirts, i dozen window sash, i bo.x
glass 8x10, I dozen grindstones, Y2. dozen crosscut saws, Yz dozen files, i case
mustard, i case pepper sauce, 400 pounds sugar. With these goods opened up,
young Terry put up a sign that he was ready for business. So far as the
meuTorandum book discloses, Mr. L. M. Collins was the first customer at the
new store; at least, he opened the first account, and is charged with 6 pans,
I large and 2 small water pails, 6 pint basins, i coft'ee pot, 2 frying pans, 2 candle-
sticks and I dipper.
Alki had a number of business houses in addition to that of Charles C. Terry.
In April. 1853, Samuel Lambert and W. M. Smith opened an establishment which
they called the "New York Wholesale and Retail Store and Ship Chandlery,"
in which they kept a general assortment of merchandise. They advertised that
they were "constantly receiving goods from San Francisco by the clipper brig
Leonesa, which makes the quickest trip of any vessel coming into the Sound."
They also kept a letter box for the reception of letters of strangers and resi-
dents, and a "register for travelers and others to register their names." In
September the firm dissolved partnership and called for a settlement of accounts.
In the spring of 1853 Stilwell & jMcMillen announced that they had estab-
lished a cooper shop at Alki, where they would keep a full line of barrels particu-
larly for the salmon industry.
George & Co. advertised a full supply of groceries, flour and liquors received
throvigh the bark Harriet Thompson and the schooner Willimantic.
The enterprise of Seattle pioneers was beginning to attract widespread
attention. The Columbian of August 20, 1853, said :
"Seattle is thriving. All the accounts that we receive from thence tell us
of new buildings and other improvements. Yesler's steam sawmill is working
finely. Alki is full of vigor and goaheaditiveness ; her commerce is increasing
and her men of business are doing well. Renton's steam sawmill will be in
operation in a few days. The enterprising inhabitants of these two places, near
together as they are, seem determined that their full, high and important destiny
shall be achieved as soon as possible. Success attend them, say we."
Immediately after the founding of Seattle new arrivals began to make their
homes in the village or to take claims nearby.
Hillory Butler and wife, George N. McConaha and family, Thomas S. Rus-
sell, Robert Russell, George F. Frye, Franklin Matthias, David Phillips, L. V.
\Vyckoft, M. D. \A'oodin, Ira Wooden, John A. Chase, William G. Latimer,
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 29
Charles I'lunimer, Joseph WiHiamson, David Maurer, Robert Gardner, Jacob
W'ibens and George Bowker soon identified themselves with the affairs of the
village permanently. While William Hebner, S. M. Ilolderness, J. W. Margrave,
lohn Margrave, N. H. Oglesbce, Gideon Hubbard and Thomas Stewart settled
licre, and were for a time active in affairs, Ihcy did not long remain in this
community.
On the l)ay lo the south claims were taken by John C. Holgate, Edward
Ilanford, John J. Moss and Seymour Hanford. The latter did not perfect his
title to his claim. On Lake Washington were E. A. Clark, Walter Graham,
lohn Harvey. Timothy I). Hinckley and Lemuel J. Ilolgatc. About half way
between bay and lake Seymore Wctmore and family look up their claim.
To the north was Dr. Henry A. Smith on Smith's Cove and about and near
Salmon Bay were Edmund Carr, E. I\L Smithers, David Stanley, Ira W. Utter,
John Ross, I'Vancis McXatt and William A. Strickler, besides Josci)h Overholts,
Henry 1\. and lUirley Pearce, w^ho remained but a short time.
At the mouth of the Duwamish River was Charles Walker, and a little farther
up the river were U. Conklin and wife. Above these the Maple-Collins settle-
ment has been mentioned elsewhere. Farther up the river were John Buckley
and wife, J. C. Avery, G. T. Grow, Dr. S. L. Grow, George Holt and August
Hogravc. Of these only Buckley and wife long rciuained in the county.
(^n the Duwamish, not far below the confluence of Black River and nearby
on Black and White rivers, were \\'illiam H. Gilliam, Joseph Foster, Stephen
I'ostcr, John Carr, II. H. Tobin, .\. F. Bryant, Dr. R. M. Bigelow, Charles E.
Ilrownell, O. M. Eaton and Josepli Fanjoy. The latter two were murdered by
the Indians east of the mountains while they were going further north on a
]in)S])ecting tour.
William V. Smith and family were the first to settle on Cedar River near tlie
|)resent Town of Renton.
t)n White River below the present Town of .\uburn were William 11. Bran-
nan and wife, George King and family, Harvey Jones and family, Enos Cooper,
Moses Kirkland. Samuel W. Russell and family, Jose])h and .Arnold Lake, Henry
Adams, John M. Thomas and wife, Robert H. Beatty and I). A. Neely and
family.
On the up])er reaches of the White River were .\. L. Porter, Doniiiiick
Corcoran and James Riley.
In the summer of 1S53 there were in King County 170 white settlers, of
whom 1 1 1 w ire nun and voters. In the whole territory there were 3,965 white
inhabitants.
David S. Maynard and Catharine T. Broshears were united in marriage
I.inuary 15, 1S53, by the Rev. Benjamin Close at the bride's home near Olympia,
and they caine at once to Seattle to live.
Mr. Close had recently been assigned to the District of Northern Oregon
and stationed ;it Olympia. Tie was at that time the only Protestant clergj'man
on the Sound.
On the 23d day of January, 1853, David T. Denny and Louisa Boren were
united in marriage by Justice of the Peace Maynard, at the home of her brother
.\rthur. Their certificate of marriage was the first issued in King County. It
is attested by D. S. Maynard, J. P., and H. L. Yesler, clerk. Not long after-
30 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
ward they bundled their few effects into a canoe and moved into a small cabin
that recently had been erected near the water front on their donation claim.
Their daughter Inez writes that the first meal partaken of in this cabin con-
sisted of salt meat from a ship's stores and potatoes. At times this diet was
varied by substituting fresh salmon for "salt horse."
In the Town of Seattle, December 29, 1853, by the Rev. David E. Blain,
Mr. William H. Brannan, recently from Winnebago County, Illinois, was united
in marriage with IMiss Elizabeth Livingston, recently from Marion County,
Indiana. They were among the victims of the massacre by the Indians near the
present Town of Auburn in October, 1855, as noted elsewhere.
The story of Seattle's development is written in epochs. The first was the
erection of the steam sawmill by Yesler. It gave the settlement a start and a
guaranty of future existence. The stack that emitted the Yesler smoke was the
pioneer of thousands of others; the city grew up around it, and Henry L. Yesler
was the father of the city's industries.
The action of Boren and Maynard in moving their lines to accommodate
Yesler is a significant episode in the life of Seattle, as it marked the first con-
certed attempt of the town to attract industries to itself. True, the motive was
entirely selfish, for the presence of the sawmill could have but one effect on the
adjacent land, which prior to the establishment of the mill could not rightfully
claim to be of any more value than any other shore lands for miles in either
direction. But all civic loyalty may be the offspring, in part at least, of enlight-
ened selfishness; a campaign for more railroads or more factories is carried
on with money cheerfully subscribed by people whose idea is to benefit the city
in which they live and thereby enhance the value of all the property within that
city. The enterprise of Boren and Maynard was on a par, therefore, with the
later eft'orts greater bodies of her citizens have put forth to bring new industries
to Seattle.
In the case of Yesler's mill the advantage to the small settlement became
apparent as soon as work of construction was commenced. Work was given
every adult in the settlement, and when the operation of the mill began logging
became practically the only source of revenue of the settlers. By sheer strength
of their bodies the men laid low the stately trees that made the site of the future
city a forest, rolled them to tidewater and towed them with small boats to the
mill. There was no other way to do the work and full advantage had to be taken
of the accommodations which the gods had provided, as the steep hills back of
the water front presented grades that eased somewhat the work of handling logs
without the ecjuipment that makes them the playthings of the machinery of
today.
The Columbian of October 20. 1852, remarked: "We have heretofore
neglected to notice the fact that there is a new steam mill in process of erection
by Mr. H. L. Yesler at Seattle, north of the Duwamish River, and which, we
are told, will be ready to go into operation early in November next and no mis-
take. Huzza for Seattle! It would be folly to suppose that the mill will not
prove as good as a gold mine to Mr. Yesler, besides tending greatly to improve
the fine town site of Seattle and the fertile country around it by attracting
thither the farmer, the laborer and the capitalist. On with improvement. We
hope to hear of scores of others ere long."
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 31
Sc])tcnil)cr lo, 1852, the Cohinibian, the first newspaper published north of
tlic Columbia River, made its appearance in Olympia. In it ajjpearcd the adver-
tisement of the "New York Cash Store," as follows :
"Chas. C. Terry & Co., thankful for past favors, take this opportunity to
inform their numerous friends and customers that they still continue at their
well-known stand in the Town of New York on Puget Sound, where they keep
constantly on hand and for sale at the lowest prices all kinds of merchandise
usually required in a new country. N. B. — Vessels furnished with cargoes of
piles, square timber, shingles, etc."
Early in 1853, Low sold his interest at AIki Point to Charles C. Terry and
moved to the neighborhood of Olympia. As Terry's brother Lee had previously
returned to his old home in New York, he became the sole owner of the point.
April II. 1853, Terry advertised that the copartnership with Low had been
dissolved by mutual consent and that the business of the firm would thereafter
be conducted under the name of C. C. Terry. It was about this time that the
name of the settlement was changed from New York to Alki, and the following
announcement appeared in the Columbian :
"Our enterprising friend, C. C. Terry, has made an excellent change of name
for his flourishing town at the entrance of Duwamish Bay, hitherto called New
York. It is henceforth to be known by the name of 'Alki.' We never fancied
the name of New York on account of its inappropriateness ; but Alki we sub-
scribe to instanter. It is a pretty word, convenient, not borrowed or stolen from
any other town or city, and is in its meaning expressive even unto prophecy.
The interpretation of the word Alki being 'by-and-by,' "in a little while,' or "here-
after.' we must approve its application to a growing and hopeful place. Well
done, friend Terry, success to thee and thy Alki. We are informed that a steam
sawmill and several business houses are being erected at Alki. An extensive
square timber and pile business is done there, and good assortments of merchan-
dise are kept by the merchants. The brig Leoncsa, Captain Howard, is now
fully due at the port of Alki with merchandise for C. C. Terry and Lambert &
Smith." In April, 1853, C. C. Terry advertised that he had just received a
large and s])lendid assortment of goods of all kinds from San Francisco by the
ship Sarah I'arker and the brig Leoncsa. He ofl'ered for sale 15,000 ])ounds of
barley seed, and stated that lu- wonlcf receive timber and ])ilcs in exchange for
his goods.
.Additional mills soon began o])erations and the lumber trade increased stead-
ily. In the winter of 1853-54, J. J. Felt arrived and built a mill at Appletree
Cove, which early in 1S54 was moved to Port Madison. It was owned later
by (Jeorge A. Meigs. In the spring of 1853 Capt. William Renton went to
Alki and he and Terry erected a sawmill there, but it was soon found tiiat strong
northerly winds and a lack of abundance of fresh water made the ])lace unsuitable,
so the mill was moved to Port Orchard. The same year Talbot & Company
built a mill at Port Gamble. 'J'he Port Ludlow mill and the one at Utsalady were
also started in 1853.
The brig Kingsbury, Captain Cook, sailed for San I'-rancisco in .\i)ril with
250 piles, 20,000 feet of sawed lumber and 30 cords of wood on board. A
little later the bark Sarah Warren. Cai>tain Gove, took away a large cargo of
piles, square timbers, shingles and cordwood. The brig Cyclops, Captain Per-
32 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
kins, sailed for San Francisco with 190,000 feet of sawed lumber, 14 cords of
wood and 2 tons of coal. The Leonesa sailed with a cargo 8,000 lineal feet of
piling and 4,000 lineal feet of squared timber and 20 cords of wood, all shipped
by Terry.
Soon afterward he shipped by the Sarah Parker 10,000 feet of squared
timber, 15,000 feet of piling and 100 cords of wood. The ship Mason brought
him a large shipment of merchandise and provisions. In December, 1853, the
brig John Davis sailed from Alki with a cargoi of piles and timber, and about
the same time the ship Brontes, similarly loaded, sailed from Seattle for the
same destination.
The farms on the banks of the Duwamish River showed prospects of great
development and furnished the people of Seattle and the lower sound with
their products.
In 1853 'h^ crop raised by L. M. Collins was valued at $5,000. The enormous
size of the products of his farm excited surprise even here. He raised turnips
weighing from twenty-three to thirty-five pounds each, potatoes weighing as
much as four pounds each, and onions two pounds each. Already he was adver-
tising 200,000 apple, peach, plum, cherry and other trees for sale at the low
rate of $12.50 per hundred.
Rev. David E. Blaine and wife sailed from New York for Puget Sound
October 5, 1853, by way of the Isthmus and San Francisco and reached Olympia
November 20th. This was making good time for that period. They came down
to Alki November 26th. The little hamlet then contained eight houses and a
sawmill. The clergyman and his wife were entertained by Mr. Samuel Russell
and wife, who were the only white family there at the time. The other houses
were used as stores and homes for the bachelor residents.
Samuel Russell and wife not long afterward moved to their donation claim in
the White River Valley and lived and died there. Their sons and daughters
were active and prominent in the social and business life of this community for
nearly a half century. The sons were Thomas, Robert and Alonzo. The elder
daughter married John Thomas. They spent all their years afterward on their
donation claim not far from where Kent now stands. Mary Russell married
Charles C. Terry and wa*s the mother of Ed and Charles Terry and Mesdamcs
Scurry, Kittenger and Lewis. The youngest daughter, Emeline, married James
J. Crow and the City of Kent was founded on their land claim.
Of his first ministrations in this new field of labor Mr. Blaine wrote a few
days later as follows : "I preached in the afternoon and evening. In the evening
after the sermon a young man (Charles C. Terry) took his hat of his own accord
and passed around among the auditors, of whom I should think there were about
thirty. When we counted the collection it amounted to $12.50.
"It rained hard most of the way from Alki to this place. We came to Mr.
Denny's, a member of the M. E. Church, and were kindly received. Here we
are yet. His home contains two rooms. I had purchased a stove in Olympia
for $25, such as would cost me in Seneca Falls six or seven dollars, and we
put this stove up in Brother Denny's room till we could make other and better
arrangements. Last Sabbath I preached two sermons and organized a church
of four members of whom Catharine (his wife) was one."
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 33
No clearer presentations of conditions here in those early clays could be
given than in the foregoing paragraph.
Mr. Blaine's first letter from Seattle was dated December 6, 1853, and gave
an account of the voyage from San Francisco to the Sound. It had consumed
only twelve days but at one time considerable uneasiness was occasioned because
of faulty reckoning and consequent narrow escape from being driven on the
rocks south of Cape Flattery. The letter gave a description of the Sound from
the cape to Olympia and many details of their first experiences at Olympia, Steila-
coom, Alki and Seattle. Several paragraphs will be of more than ordinary inter-
est to the reader of today. He wrote :
"I suppose Catherine will take the school here for the ne.xt three months, at
about sixty-five dollars per month. A subscription was started yesterday. One
man who has only two children to send has signed $100. We have a few gener-
ous hearted men here. I am oftered a lot anywhere in town to build our house
upon, without charge. I have not yet selected it. One man here has donated
thirty acres of land for a seminary just outside of the village survey. Another
is to give me a lot for a church and parsonage. Our village contains about thirty
houses and I think twenty-six of these have been put up during the last six
months, but as yet it is mostly in the woods. There are emigrants coining in,
every now and then and augmenting our numbers.
"Ihc i)eople seem disposed to take very good care of us and give us enough
to do. llrother Denny offers me a lot for a first best garden, where it will not
re((uire much labor to clear it. We shall not need lO' secure a claim. Village
lots will be more valuable and these we can have given to us for the asking or
on condition that we will make some improvements on them. The prices of lots
vary from twenty-fi\ c to one hundred dollars. As for fruit, we can very well live
without it as the superabundance of berries here will serve as a substitute. These
aliound during nine or ten months in the twelve. We have strawberries, rasp-
berries, dewberries, salal berries, .salmon berries, cranberries, whortleberries and
wild grajjes of a superior kind. These ripen successively and are picked by the
Indians and brought in by the barrel. Cranberries and whortleberries are still
hanging on the bushes in abundance. They are larger and more solid than our
berries at home in the states.
"There is an abundance of game in the woods, consisting of dcor, wild cattle
(these belong to the Hudson's Bay Company but have run wild), bears, wolves,
panthers, squirrels, skunks and rats. Pheasants, grouse, gulls and ducks and
crows are as tame here as the hens at home. They are very numerous. There
are also a great njany eagles, ravens and cranes. Our Sound, or inland sea,
besides its many other excellent qualities, abounds in fish of almost every variety.
Salmon are very abundant, cod fish, herring, sardines, oysters and clams. Whales
come spouting along now and then. Haliliut are caught at certain seasons of
the year. The Indians do most of the fi.shing. The oysters here are of an
inferior quality and small size."
Under dale of January 11, 1S54, he writes: 'T have just seen Governor
Stevens. He came to Seattle last night; is expecting to go up our river tomor-
row to visit our coal mines and make arrangements for the exploration of our
country back to the pass in the Cascade range, with a view to a.scertaining the
most feasible situation for the terminus of the Pacific railroad. Manv in this
34 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
territory are very sanguine in the opinion that this terminus will be at some
point on Puget Sound. This place, in view of the natural and easy route hither
and of our excellent and commodious harbor, said to be the best on the Sound,
will probably be the place."
January 17th Mrs. Blaine adds a postscript: "Our governor is now arrived,
and we are to have a Territorial Legislature. The members are to be elected next
month. The governor's home is at Olympia at present. He was down last
Friday with Governor Lancaster, the nominee for congressman. They both
addressed the people here. I did not hear them, being occupied in my school.
They gave very good satisfaction. I did not see the governor, but the judge
called on us twice. He appears well, has the reputation of being a fine man. a
Christian. The governor is as rough in his appearance as any of our backs-
woodsmen. They say he wears his red flannel shirt, no white one, coarse clothes
and unshaven beard. You probably know he came the overland route with a
company to see what were the facts in regard to the practicability of a northern
road, where would be the best passes, etc. He unhesitatingly declares the advan-
tages of the northern route, and thinks, as we all here know, that if such a road
is ever built, its western terminus will be somewhere on the Sound. He is a skill-
ful, practical engineer, having served in that capacity in the Mexican war, and
well qualified to judge in such matters. He pronounces himself pleased with
the country, considers its resources abundant, and says he is astonished at the
degree of intelligence he finds wherever he goes. He has quite encouraged the
people, given them new life and vigor."
March 7, 1854, Mrs. Blaine writes: "We are now laboring under some excite-
ment in consequence of some circumstances which have recently occurred. Just
before we arrived here, the whites had hung an Indian that had killed some
Indians and threatened to kill the whites. The Indians made no resistance and
were apparently indifferent. Since that time there have been some white men
missing and the Indians say they have killed them in revenge. One day last
week a man started from Alki to go down the Sound in a canoe with three Indians.
The Indians returned with his canoe, clothing, watch, money, etc., and were quite
badly wounded so that one of them died. Suspicions were raised that all was
not right, and last Saturday three white men, and three Indians of another tribe,
went to make inquiries. The Indians who were suspected of murder had left
Alki and were found among their own tribe. The whites demanded them and
they were given up without hesitation. They put them in a canoe, but it was
aground which caused some delay in getting away, during which time the Indians
from the land rushed upon the men with drawn knives, and one man fired upon
them. This commenced hostilities and the whites killed from five to ten ( they
do not know the exact number) of the Indians. During the fracas one of the
Indians they had arrested managed to escape. The other behaved so badly they
shot him. The whites were all wounded, one of them mortally. He died last
night. 'Sir. B. preached his funeral sermon this afternoon. Another was wounded
in the thigh, a bullet going through it. The other received a bullet in his cheek,
which flattened against his teeth and he spit it out. One of the Indians they
took with them was wounded so they think he cannot live. Their return to this
place yesterday excited the people very much. A company immediately volun-
teered to go this morning and attack them, but upon more mature thought they
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 35
decided to refer the case to the governor for his action upon it. The citizens
convened last night, drew up a set of resoUitions. informing him of affairs and
rc(|uesting him to take immediate action. They sent it off in a sloop to Olympia,
but unless the winds should be very fair, we cannot hope for aid from him before
.'Saturday. Meantime we feel considerably alarmed for ourselves. The Indians
are ail well armed with guns, knives and more ammunition than the whites. They
are \ery much alarmed, but if they knew their strength they might dispatch every
white person on the Sound. There have been a great many of them about here
this winter. At one time it was said there were 500 in this town and vicinity.
They have left so that now we have no more than one hundred or two hundred,
riicre are two things in our favor, the Indians are very cowardly, and the dif-
ferent tribes are at enmity with each other. Should their mutual fear of and
hatred to the "Bostons" impel them to unite against us, the terrible scenes enacted
in the settlement of the Atlantic states, the accounts of which used to chill my
blood with horror, may be re-enacted here."
.\n engineer named William Young, employed in Renton & Terry's mill at
Alki, had gone down the Sound in search of a claim and was murdered by the
Indians he had employed to accompany him. The murderers fled to Whidby
Island. Sheriff Thomas Russell organized a posse, consisting of Doctor Cherry
and Mr. Tyson and three Indians of another tribe. One of the Indians of the
sheriff's party died from the effect of his wounds soon afterward. The excitement
and alarms incident to the murder and the bloody affray between the Indians and
the officers of the law soon subsided and no further ill results followed in their
train.
August 4, 1854, Mr. Blaine wrote a long letter to his mother on a great many
topics, some connected with the old home and more with the affairs of the little
village in which he and his wife had established a new home. The following is the
writer's views regarding the local Indian as he then existed. The present day
writers of Indian romances will hardly recognize the picture :
"You tell Kate she must love the coarse, filthy and debased natives in order to
do them good. \Ve can imagine, in some degree, your feelings on this subject,
and you will need the help of imagination to appreciate our situation and rela-
tion to these pitiable objects of neglect and degradation. Once we could have
hoped to do them good, but alas, they are most undoubtedly beyond our reach.
They are but a remove above the digger Indians in California in intellect or
humanity. Those who cannot talk the jargon or Chinook are beyond our reach
iiecause we cannot converse with them except through an interpreter. They
have already learned enough of religion through the Catholics to make the sign
of the cross and say (ikt papa ikt sockala Tiee) one pope and one God. Their
ideas of a future state are very indefinite. They are taught that there is a lower
region and an upper one and that the good and bad will be separated in the
future state, but moral feelings seem to be blunted or quite blotted out, and they
lie. gamble, steal, get drunk and all the other bad things almost as a matter of
duty because it is so deeply innate and so fully acquired by habit. Those who
can speak the Chinook are ajipareiUly more iiUelligent because from Ihcir inter-
course wilii the whites they have acquired some cunning and artifice, IkU they are
even lower in immorality than their less informed ciders who speak not the
jargon. They have also associated with the worst of white men and their example
36 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
and influence have been most pernicious. Seeing the whites paying no regard to
rehgious obligations nor even to moral principle they could scarcely do likewise.
A prominent trait of Indian character east of the Rocky Mountains, we were
taught, was gratitude, but these possess not a vestige of this noble feeling. You
inay feed them all they can eat and give them all they can put on today, and
tomorrow they will come back and ask for more and not be satisfied unless you
give them a more munificent present which they would take without the least
show of thanks. And should you wish to get the use of their canoe, even for a
few minutes, they would want pay for it. The principle which actuates almost all
here is, 'Get all you can and keep all you get,' no matter how you get it. This
is fairly illustrated by a case that occurred a day or two since. An Indian
wore a very nice pair of pants when he came to call upon us, and when Kate,
who was in the house alone, asked him if he got them by working in the saw-
mill, he replied ('wake, nika iscum momook tolo') meaning. 'No, I got them by
gambling' when she said 'I\Iomook tolo bias mussachee' (gambling is very
wicked) he replied 'wake mussachee — wake mussachee, iscum hiyou doUa' ('No
bad, no wicked, gets plenty dollars'). This is the principle. Nothing is wicked
which gets plenty of dollars. The first article is the creed of nearly all."
Mrs. Blaine added a postscript :
"Would you like to visit us? I do not know how long you would be con-
tented here but I think for a time the novelty of everything would make you
forget to be discontented. What would you think to go through a town which
has but one street built on, and that but thinly, with nothing to mark the dif-
ferent lots, the sides and middle of the street all alike, stumpy, with miserable
Indian shanties scattered all about and Indians meeting you at every step? We
have now become so accustomed to these things they do not seem so strange to
us, but I often think what would our folks say if they could see them. This warm
weather they go almost naked, and it is no unusual sight to see quite a number
of men around the tents entirely so. I can pass a long row of their tents on the
beach within a few feet of the water and see children of all ages from a few
months up to those twelve or fotirteen years old running around without an article
of clothing, sometimes chasing each other in the water and sometimes rolling on
the sharp stones on the beach. Their skins seem as tough as horse hide, and they
know as little of shame as the beasts of the field. Besides seeing the sights, we
could amuse you by taking you out to pick berries. We went yesterday and
picked a fine lot of raspberries. We went over and under logs, through brush
and tangled weeds, up hill and down, but we had a very pleasant time."
At that time in Seattle trees had to be felled and stumps dug out to get sites
for the little homes and the little gardens. Members of the cloth were too poor
to hire this work done and all the other members of the community were engaged
in the same tasks, so clerical ministrations were interspersed with long hours of
severe manual labor. The following is illustrative of the pioneer experiences of
all circuit preachers in those days. Writing of her husband she said:
"He does indeed need some new clothes as you would think if you could see
how he goes dressed. He dirties and wears out a great many clothes as he has
such dirty hard work to do. I have made him a hickory shirt that he puts on
over his clothes when he is doing the worst. I do not know as you sisters would
own him for a brother if you should see him as he looks nowadays. His hands
HISTORY ()!• Si:.\TTI.I-: 37
are coarser and rougher than any farmer's I ever saw, and his clothes to match.
1 go out in the garden after school and help him. Making gardens here is a dif-
ferent tiling from what it is with you where the ground is all cleared off nicely.
Here are stumps, roots, bushes and plenty of such things to be cleared away.
We have had fires burning for two weeks in the yard to burn up the stuff."
This yard and little garden was where the New York Block now stands.
Probably few pioneers now living who often saw the residence of Dexter Horton
when he lived on the east side of Second Avenue, just north of Cherry Street,
knew that the Rev. David Blaine built tiiat house long prior to the Indian war and
that Mr. Morton bought it from him.
The early part of 1S54 Charles C. Terry was planning a trip to the Atlantic
states. Collection of accounts due him, securing men to operate the sawmill at
Alki and supplying it with sawlogs, and keeping his store running were a part
of his activities. In February he advertised that he had just received by the
Leoncsa a full and general assortment of provisions, groceries, drygoods, cloth-
ing, liquors, stoves, etc., and being anxious to close out the present stock he would
sell cheaper than could be purchased elsewhere on the Sound.
However, a trip to the eastern states at that time was not a matter of a few
days' travel and of slight consideration. It would probably consume five or six
months, and the actual expenses for travel and subsistence amount to five or six
hundred dollars. Mr. Terry appears to have sold out his store before starting
cast, as George & Co., in July of that year, advertised that they had bought his
stock of goods.
Terry believed in the value of newspaper advertising, and during all the
early years the Olympia newspapers seldom failed to have something in their
columns about him and his different lines of business.
A stroll through the Village of Seattle in the summer of 1855 would lead one
around stumps and over broken gixjund. The most noticeable building on First
Avenue South was the branch store of Bettman Bros., who had begun business
here the year previous. They had a very presentable estaljlishiiicnl and kept on
hand a full stock of goods. The Indian troubles impelled thcin to leave the city,
and they disposed of their business to Charles C. Terry, who took possession
after the war was over. They were engaged in the same business in Olympia,
where the elder Bettman continued it during his lifetime, and it is still carried on
by his son.
On the northwest corner of First Avenue South and Washington Street
was the store of Denny, Horton & Phillips. The latter had come to Seattle from
Olympia where he had at first settled.
Arthur A. Denny was among Seattle's first merchants. Commercial interests
began at Seattle in the most natural manner, being but an outgrowth of the
trading from the vessels that came to the harbor for piling and square timbers for
the .San I'rancisco market. While thus taking on cargo the captain carried on
trade with the settlers and Indians on board the vcsstl. It was found to be
profitable to leave the remaining stock behind at the \ illage, to be sold off on
commission. To Mr. Denny fell the lot of taking such goods and disposing of
them. A store was built, one story high, 20x30 feet in size, on the northwest
corner of First .\venuc South and Washington streets, where Dexter Horton I't
Co.'s beautiful bank building afterward was erected, and in this unpretentious
38 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
structure Mr. Denny sold all sorts of goods on commission. Trade increased
rapidly, and he soon thereafter associated with himself, Dexter Horton and
David Phillips. They carried provisions, hardware, clothes, cutlery and notions.
It was not long before Mr. Denny and his partners were able to place themselves
on an independent basis, the founder of the house visiting San Francisco to
purchase his annual stock. When the Indian war broke out, Mr. Denny dis-
posed of his interest in the business to enter the volunteer service. Horton and
Phillips continued business at the old stand for a number of years, until the institu-
tion of the bank by Horton and the death about the same time of Phillips. Atkins
& Shoudy succeeded to the mercantile department, and they in turn sold out in
1869 to Crawford & Harrington, afterwards transformed to Harrington & Smith.
Mr. Smith died in San Francisco many years ago, and owing to complications the
affairs of the partnership were wound up. Mr. Harrington is now living in
Alaska.
The third and remaining store was that of Dr. Joseph Williamson, a widower,
and a very successful merchant who continued in the same line of business until
his death many years later.
A schoolhouse was provided by William A. Strickler, a young man of fine
attainments, and an engineer and surveyor by profession. He vacated a dwelling
he had erected and it was turned into a schoolhouse.
The hotel of the place was the Felker House, that stood away out on the
point near the corner' of Jackson Street and Railroad Avenue. It was the best
building in the place ; was a two-story, framed structure, finished with lath and
plaster inside, the first hard-finished house in the village.
Hillory P)Utler's house was on the corner of James Street and Second Avenue
on the present site of the Butler Hotel. It was riddled with Indlets during the
attack by the Indians January 26, 1856, but it stood, a well-known landmark,
until 1888, when it was demolished to make room for a business block.
Another house was occupied by Samuel Russell and family who had moved
over from Alki and remained here for a time before moving onto their farm
in the White River Valley.
Boren's was a notable structure, two stories in height, on the corner of Sec-
ond Avenue and Cherry Street. It was later known as the Bell house.
Doctor Maynard's house was at the corner of First Avenue South and Main
Street; Edward Hanford's and Mrs. Holgate's on Cherry Street; Arthur Denny's
was out quite a way on First Avenue near Madison Street, and Yesler's was at
the corner of James Street and First Avenue.
Bell's was at that time far ottt to the north near Battery Street. It was
burned by the Indians the day of the battle.
At a general election in King County in July, 1855, about one hundred and
forty votes were cast. Arthur \. Denny, A. B. Webster and David Phillips were
elected to the Legislature; Thomas Mercer, county commissioner; T. S. Bordwell,
auditor; E. M. Smilhers, assessor; A. F. Bryant, surveyor. For prohibitory
liquor law eighty-one, against forty-four. Sixty years later King County reversed
this verdict.
In October, 1855, jtist before the Indian war troubles broke out in King
County, Luther M. Collins gathered a crop of 300 bushels of peaches. As this
J
CHARLES PLUMMER'S RESIDKXCH. UCCIDKNTAL A\ KXUE AXI) I \CKSOX
STREET
•11
4iiAi'ij H^k
THE EEI.KEk HOUSE. JACKSCJX STREET AXD WESTERN AVENUE
HISTORY OF SEATTIJ'. 39
was only four years after the orchard was planted this was a good demonstration
of fertile soil and favorable climate.
Under date of November 12, 1855, Col. M. T. Simmons, special Indian agent,
published a notice directing all the friendly Indians within the limits of the
Puget Sound District to rendezvous at North Bay, Nisqually, Steilacoom, Gig
Harbor, \"ashon's Island, Seattle, Port Orchard, Penn's Cove and Oak Harbor.
Sub districts were formed with Dr. J. B. Webber, Dr. D. S. Maynard, Capt. R.
C. Fay and Dr. N. D. Hill in charge.
The subject of one of the chapters of Grant's History of Seattle was "The
Town and People," most of which is presented here.
"By the summer of 1855, preceding the siege, the number of houses of all
descriptions in Seattle had reached about forty or forty-five. They were clus-
tered on both sides of First Avenue South for three blocks. There were no
houses north of Madison Street and none east of Second, except a building or
two between James and Columbia, and a house near Jackson Street and Fourth
Avenue South.
"The most important structure in the village was Yesler's sawmill. In more
senses than one it was the life of the place. Here most of the men in town earned
their money ; here the ships came for cargoes and discharged their groceries.
Its puffing, buzzing, and blowing of steam made the music of the bay, and the
hum of its saws was the undertone of every household. By its whistle all the
clocks were regulated and the whole business of the village was carried on. It
was not a large mill, having only some fifteen thousand capacity, but as the price
of lumber was very high, the value of its output was not inconsiderable. The
next house in interest was Yesler's log cook and mess-house. As the name implies,
this was the eating house of the mill hands. But in addition to this use it was
town hall, court room, meeting house and liotcl. All the legal business was
transacted here and here nearly all social gatherings were held. It was the loung-
ing place where the men collected and heard the news and told stories. A low,
long, rambling afi'air without architectural pretentions, it possessed a certain
homely attractiveness and was the last of the log buildings to be taken down.
Soon after the mill began running the people built frame houses in a style that
we should now call old fashioned, with clapboards and white paint, and one-story
or story and a half in height. Such comparatively good houses, however, were
quite few, the rest were shanties or cabins. The streets were unimproved, full
of stumps and mud holes, and a single team did the carting. Bell's house, in
what is now known as Belltown, was not in the town at all, and was burned by
the Indians. Mercer's house was far in the country on Lake Union, and was
the only dwelling out of town spared at the time of the attack. The forest
closed down on the city and it was deep woods beyond Third Street.
"Thomas Mercer was one of the most useful members of the little community.
I'>y trade and education he was far from a pioneer, having worked until he was
twenty-one in a woolen mill. He went, however, from his native Ohio to Illi-
nois and learned some of the hooks and crooks of pioneer life on the prairie,
finding that hands as soft as a girl's might soon be made strong and hard
enough to swing the ax and maul, and guide the plough.
"But the excessive cold of the i^rairics led him to look at length for a
milder climate, and for a number of years he made a study of Oregon. He be-
40 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
came so thoroughly conversant with the subject that he was frequently called upon
by the neighbors to come and tell them about Oregon as if he had been there.
Indeed, he fell to dreaming of being here and in one of his dreams appeared to
be in a forest where there was a sidehill swamp with a lake beyond and bav
upon which one might come to his home all the way in a boat — his home m
Illinois being some eight miles above river navigation. The particulars of this
dream correspond curiously well with the surroundings of his present home on
Lake Union, and the dream is a sort of life touch showing the somewhat mys-
tical element which entered into early life on our coast; although Mr. Mercer is
not in the least a superstitious man. When he started from Illinois he planned
to come to Puget Sound, thus being an exception to the rule, as most of the set-
tlers were directed hither after reaching Oregon. On the way, just as he was
nearing the end of the tedious journey, being at the Cascades, he met with the
greatest bereavement that can befall a man. the loss by death of his wife. With
his four little motherless girls he came on to the end of his journey. At Port-
land he was invited by Lot Whitcomb and Thomas Carter to join a party to
Gray's Harbor, but declined on the ground that he was too old, nearly forty,
to wait for the development of that region. As for his children, there were
kind people that offered to take them and bring them up, but his oldest daughter
said she would keep house for him, she was thirteen, and they must all stay
together. She kept her word nobly, denying herself that she might send her
three little sisters off through the wood path to the log schoolhouse. It is a
comfort to reflect that the endeavors of these brave children met before long
the attainments of education and culture that they so much valued. For seven
years Mr. Mercer had to be both father and mother to his girls.
"Among the effects that he brought to the Sound was a wagon, alluded to
heretofore, and a span of horses. One of these animals was an old mare useful
chiefly in bucking straw from the thresher. He was about to sell this animal
upon his departure for Illinois. A neighbor, however, advised him that she
would be his best animal on the plains, and after due deliberation he decided to
take her. He found that she proved equal to the occasion, and for eleven years
served her master most faithfully. She was the pioneer horse of Seattle; Tib
was her name, and her grave near the old Mercer homestead is still carefully
marked. With his horses and wagon, the only team in town, Mr. Mercer had a
monopoly of the express business, and recalls with great enjoyment the fact
that he was the first of all the teamsters. The roads were far from good, but
he boasts that he surmounted all the difficulties of driving about the stumps and
backing his loads of lumber even into the houses to which they were destined.
He also did much in the line of delivering wood on the wharf for the steamers,
among which he remembers the historic Massachusetts. Sometimes he did the
wood-chopping himself, but he usually found it more profitable to hire Indians.
Among the Indians he was able to move with perfect security, even going out
for loads of wood during the time of the siege. Of all the houses in the county
left to the depredations of the savages his alone was left unburnt and unharmed.
The Indians were afterward asked the reason of this and answered that they
thought he might want to use it again. It was said to him by a neighbor that if
he stayed on his place with his little girls the Indians would not have hurt a
hair of his head. He was always exceedingly kind to them.
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 41
"To him must be given the credit of naming the lakes. Up to 1854 they had
gone without a name other than the Indian designation 'tenas chuck' and "hias
chuck' (little water and big water), barren of even proper Indian names. .Ml
agreed that distinctive names should be given tts the lakes, but for some reason
it was not easy to tind satisfactory ones. A public meeting was called to settle
the question, and Mercer's suggestion, that the larger one be named Washington
for the father of his country, and the smaller Union, as sometime to become the
connecting or uniting link between the larger lake and the Sound, met with
hearty approval, and these names were adopted. Mr. Mercer lived a part of the
time on his farm and a part of the time in the town until the city spread out
to include the farm. He made a filing to include 320 acres, the west half extend-
ing upon that sightly tract now known as Queen Anne Town, but another made
a filing on this part on the ground that Mercer was a single man. Not wishing
to carry the matter to court, Mr. Mercer confined himself to the portion fronting
on Lake Union. [It was generally understood at the time that if a married coujjle
had reached tlie territory and then one of them died the survi\t)r could file upon
an additional claim for any minor children they might have. Mr. Mercer con-
tinued to live on a part of his claim until his death in 1898. — Ed.]
"One of the arrivals of 1852, who became eminent in the slate as well as in
the city, was Dr. H. A. Smith, for whom Smith's Cove was named. He came
to this country a man of culture and education having been born in Ohio in 1830
and educated at Alleghany College, where he also studied medicine. Finishing
his professional studies at Cincinnati, he was drawn into the migratory mo\e-
ment to the West, aiming in the beginning to go to the gold region of California.
While in the Nevada Mountains, however, he decided to accompany his com-
rades to Oregon, in order to see the famous valleys of that state, particularly the
Willamette, of which he heard more and more as he came westward. He intended
to go on to the gold mines after visiting Oregon. On reaching Portland, then a
lively town, however, he heard much of a Northern Pacific railroad to terminate
on the Sound. Coming to Olympia and concluding that the road when built
must cross the mountains through Snoqualmie Pass and that Seattle was the
point nearest tide water, he decided to locate at this little place. There were a
few cabins at that time, but they were so hidden by the immense timber that the
shore ajjpcared practically a wilderness. Coming along in a canoe with Collins,
he asked where the town was, for there was nothing visible from the shore except
a small improvement of Doctor Maynard's. It was the intention to practice his
profession, but the place afforded him altogether too little sickness, and he soon
saw that to realize any profit from living here he must do as the rest were doing,
and get a piece of land. He chose a place on the north end of the bay where he
believed the railroad must first touch the water, and in the woods began pioneer
life in earnest. He found this sort of existence tedious in the extreme without
the means of gratifying his cultivated tastes, and being still young, he suflered
greatly from homesickness. He stuck to his place, however, not losing faith in
the railroad. In the course of time he interested himself in clearing up his land,
making pasturage for his cows, setting out an orchard and exi)erimenting with
his tide lands. Not giving up his practice altogether, he invented a way of com-
bmmg both his vocations; he built an infirmary on his place to which he brought
his patients, never refusing any in need of care. If, as was often the case, they
had no money to pay, he had them settle by doing some clearing on his land.
42 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
"In addition to his private enterprises, as the years passed by, he bore a full
share of public burdens, becoming the first superintendent of public schools in
tlie county, and serving three terms in the Lower House and two in the Upper
House of the Territorial Legislature. He was president of the latter one term.
His widely read contributions to the territorial press made him well known
throughout the coast. He was pronounced by an eastern magazine as 'an able
medical man and a poet of no ordinary talent, a rare scholar and a good writer.'
[His death occurred in Seattle in 1915. — Ed.]
"Jacob Maple was born on the Monogahela River, Pennsylvania, in 1793.
His father removed to Jefferson County, Ohio, in 1800 and died in 1812. The
family lived subsequently ii: Southern Iowa, whence they emigrated to Oregon by
way of California.
"To J. C. Holgate belongs the honor of having first visited Elliott Bay with a
view of making a settlement. Holgate was from Iowa, and crossed the plains to
Oregon in 1847, when a youth of but nineteen. He was a son of Abraham L.
Holgate, a pioneer of Ohio and later of Iowa. In his childhood he was very
delicate in healtli and being unable to take robust exercise, had for a large part
of his amusement the overhauling and ransacking of his father's old books in
the garret. A sister, four years older, made it a practice to read to him when
he became old enough to wish to know what was in the books, and the works that
most interested him were the record of General Pike's Expedition and the journals
of a member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The sister explained and
enlarged upon these accounts, chiefly with a view to amuse him, and during his
spells of ague she diverted him with stories of Oregon, a land of perpetual spring,
without thunder, the dread of the nervous child, and of vistas of snow-capped
mountains and the ocean. The boy fully made up his mind to come to this
romantic country, and the summer that he was nineteen he joined the party of
Seth Luelling of Salem, Iowa. Reaching Vancouver during the following autumn
he found the young territory in excitement over the Cayuse outbreak, and joined
the forces of Gilliam to punish the murderers of Whitman. During the war he
took a brave part, on one occasion performing a deed of the utmost daring. The
horses of the troop with which he was connected having been stolen, the detach-
ment was left in the midst of the enemy without the means of reaching the main
command. The animals were picketed by the Indians at a distance, but in
view, with the evident intent of drawing the whites into ambush. The com-
mander of the squad understood this and explained it to the men, but added that
they must have horses or all would fall into the hands of the hostiles. He then
asked if there was any one who would volunteer to go and cut the lariats and
let the animals loose, as he thought they would run back to their camp. Holgate
volunteered to do it. 'You can't spare a man, and I'm only a boy,' was what he
said. It was felt to be sure death, but with a halfbreed boy who generously
agreed to accompany him, he went down and released the beasts, and they at
once came flying back. Strange to say he was not fired upon, the Indians after-
wards saying, 'Oh, cultus.' They thought him too little to kill, for he was small
and pale even for his years.
"After the war, during the later days of which he was seriously sick with
measles, he was told by an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company who had heard
HISTORY OF SEATTLl'. 43
of his jjallantry and took an interest in him, that if it was the hcst country for
health lie was after he should come to I'uget Sound. Just before going to the
war he had decided to take a claim on Tualatin Plains, but upon learning of the
Sound as a better place, he made a tour of ex])loration in August and September
of 1850. He crossed from the Cowlitz to Tumwater on foot and at Simmons'
was furnished a canoe and a crew of Indian paddlers. With this dusky company
he set out on a six weeks' voyage of discovery, passing as far north as the
Snohomish, and made particular examination of Elliott Bay. On the Duwamish
he found the claim he wanted, and determined to take this in preference to that
on Tualatin Plains. He was not satisfied to settle here alone, however, and
planned to make a visit to Iowa and marry and return. But before this he
wanted to try his luck in the mines, and in 185 1 went to Southern Oregon.
"He was never weary of extolling the Sound country, and it was largely due
to his representations that L. B. Hastings, a close friend of his, was induced to
come and examine the region. While Holgate was at the mines the other
Duw.imish settlers reached the bay and covered the claim he had in view. On
returning from the mines he came north again, and although not finding his old
place vacant, filed a claim south of Doctor Maynard's on the shore of the bay.
The next above him was that of Edward Hanford. One of his letters dated
December 23, 1847, ^t Tualatin Plains was preserved. It was written just before
his Indian campaign but he does not say anything of his perilous venture, not
wishing to burden his mother with anxiety. The following extract locates him
and shows his relation to the events of the time : "The plain that I am in is as
l)retty a section of country as I ever saw in Iowa. The land is as good for
])roducing as is common in Iowa. Mr. George W. Ebbart has promised to take
this to you for me. He can tell you more of the country and its prospects than I
can at present. I intend making a claim in a few days which has about thirty
acres of plain and the balance the best of timber, and if I get it well improved I
ask no better fortune. I have but a few moments to write. I told Mr. Ebbart
that you would treat him well for my sake as he has treated me with all the kind-
ness of an open-hearted Kentuckian."
'■.\nother letter dated May 12, 1851. indicates where he was during the first
years of his residence on this coast :' "The first six months I spent in Oregon
I was in what is known as middle Oregon, between the Cascade and Blue moun-
tains, with a regiment of about five hundred men. The first of last August I left
here and went to Pugct Sound to look at the country. I stayed there until the
first of October. The Sound has four rivers emptying along its eastern shore.
The valleys of these rivers will average about fifteen miles in width and arc about
equally divided in prairie and timber. I spent about six weeks traveling over this
Sound country.' [These letters fix be>x>nd doubt Holgate's exploration of the
Sound. He was murdered in Nevada in 1868 during a controversy regarding a
mining claim he had discovered and staked. — Ed.|
"It was greatly against the will of his sister that Holgate came to the West,
for he seemed to her but a puny child still, and .she felt guilty for filling his hea<l
with adventurous notions. In much the same spirit, he, after coming and seeing
the real hardships of the journey, would not advise her to think of coming. In
the meantime she had married. Her husband's affairs were prospering. He had
a magnificent tract of prairie and woodland, and large herds of cattle. This was
44 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
Mr. Edward Hanford. In spite of Ilolgate's withholding encouragement, how-
ever, TIanford took the Oregon fever and brought his family across the moun-
tains and plains, and occupied the claim next above that of Holgate. With the
large number of work cattle that he brought from Iowa, he supplied teams for
doing a very profitable business in hauling out timbers. By the aid of his wife
he was making a most comfortable home, with garden and orchard, until all was
wantonly destroyed by the Indians at the time of the outbreak. After this dis-
aster, he lived in the town until some years later. He then resided in San Fran-
cisco for a number of years, but the evening of his life was spent at Seattle.
"Mrs. Hanford, whose kindly story telling to amuse a sickly brother may be
regarded as the beginning of the family history of her people on this coast, if
not of the History of Seattle, was one of those typical pioneers whose culture and
intelligence show from what substantial material the foundation timbers of
Seattle were derived." [Her death occurred in Seattle many, many years
ago. — Ed.]
Lack of mails much of the time and irregularities all the time was one of the
commonest sources of irritation to the settlers and the most serious privation they
had to endure They had all of them recently left homes and friends and rela-
tives in the eastern states and of course were anxious to hear from them. Often
months intervened without a word from them.
During 1852 and most of 1853 the only mails reaching Seattle came from
Olympia by canoe express once a week. Robert W. Moxlie carried it most of the
time. Postage was 25 cents a letter. The last express of this character arrived
August 15, 1853, and brought twenty-two letters and fourteen papers.
The 22d of the same month Arthur A. Denny was appointed postmaster and
received the first United States mail ever opened in Seattle. It was opened in a
log cabin on the present northeast corner of First Avenue and Marion Street,
where in the early '80s George F. Frye erected an opera house that went by his
name and was a quite pretentious structure for that period. It burned at the
time of the great fire. Mr. Denny was relieved of his office October nth follow-
ing his appointment and a W. J- Wright became his successor. A protest was
forwarded and Mr. Denny was recommissioncd the following year in May but
he declined the appointment. Giarles Plummer was then a])pointe(l and served
for several years.
The neglect of the postmaster general to provide the settlers of Washington
Territory with suitable mail facilities w-as bitterly complained of year after year
and made that official the subject of anima(l\ersions from press and people.
Many of the organized counties of the territory had never been supplied with a
mail at the expense of the General Government, although some of them were
older than the territorial organization. The Congress of 1833-4 had established
suitable mail routes but few of them were put in operation.
In January, 1854, proposals for carrying the mails for four years were called
for over the following routes : From Olympia to Seattle every Thursilay and
return the next day; from Seattle to Olympia every Monday and return the next
day. A bill in Congress in February. 1855, authorized a semi-monthly mail
between San Francisco and Olymyjia with stoppage at all intermediate points,
the cost not to exceed $120,000 a year. This bill became a law and proposals for
carrying the mail were called for. The lowest bid for semi-monthly trips between
HISTORY 0[" SEATTLE 45
Sail I'Vancisco and Olympia was $125,000 a year. Tlie next lowest was for
monthly trips at $100,000 a year. Finally J. II. C. Mudd and Henry S. Magraw
took tlie contract from Astoria to Olympia at $36,000 annually, monthly tri])s.
P.efore this ]i!an was put in operation, it was concluded to run from Portland to
Olympia, with four trips each way per month, but as this would require a suit-
ahlc steamer and as there was no such steamer willing to undertake the service,
the oft'ers of the (Government went begging. Thus tlie mail service on (he Sound
was \ery irregular and unsatisfactory, and was carried by anybody or every-
body. Altliough mail routes had in reality been established in 1853, there was
no oflicial service till two years later. Postmasters had been appointed, but many
were not jirovided with mail bags and keys. Hence in 1855 a weekly mail was
demanded for alt the Sound towns. The steamer Major Tompkins carried it as
an accommodation when conxenient, as did also the Water Lily, Capt. C. C.
Terry. As it was, all the .Sound towns were compelled to wait often more than
a month for mails.
Of marriageable girls or women, in all the early years on Pugct Sound, the
pro|)ortion to the number of eligible males willing to enter into the bonds of
wedlock was, perhaps, one in twenty. A marriage ceremony was a notable event
in any community, and its celebration attracted the neighbors from near and far.
In those days neighbors might live five, ten or twenty miles apart. To each
maiden was offered the selection of a mate from a numerous waiting list ; that
this selection should have at all times been wisely made would not be prof-
itable to discuss. However, of the contracting parties in Seattle, and nearby, men-
tioned below, none afterward appeared in the divorce courts, therefore the con-
clusion that they lived happily together ever afterward may be accepted as final.
In the Town of Alki, I'ebruary 5, 1854, by Reverend Blaine, Mr. John M.
Thomas, formerly of Indianapolis, Ind., was married to Miss Mary .'\., daugh-
ter of Samuel Russell, formerly of Auburn. 111. The Columbian of those
days seemed to feel that in most cases people then here had hardly established
residences, and for information and identification gave the name of the eastern
home from which they had recently moved to this new country.
In Seattle, I-'ebruary 19, 1854, by Rev. David E. Blaine, Mr. G. Timothy Grow,
of Duwamish River, was wedded to Miss Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Ben-
net L. Johns, of Seattle.
In Seattle, January i, 1855, by Rev. David E. Blaine, Mr. Charles Plummer
and Miss Ellen Smith, both of Seattle.
At the residence of Mr. J. H. Avery, Duwamish River, February 7, 1855, '^y
C. C. Lewis, justice of the peace. Dr. Samuel L. Grow to Miss Eveline M. Avery,
both of King County.
Mr. Joseph Brannan. of King County and Miss Sarah V. Hcnness, of
Thurston County, were united in marriage at the residence of the bride's parents,
by Alex S. Yantis, justice of the peace, October i, 1857.
Mr. David Livingston and Miss Mar)' Renton, both of Port Orchard, were
married in Olympia liy Rev. Geo. F. \\'hitworth, August 17, 1857.
At Seattle, August 28, 1859, by Dr. D. S. Maynard, justice of the peace, Mr.
L. V. WyckofT and Mrs. Ursula McConaha, all of Seattle.
Mr. S. B. Hinds, a member of the firm of Plummer & Hinds, was united in
46 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
marriage to Miss Nellie M. Andrews, September 15, 1859, by Dr. D. S. Maynard,
in Seattle. All were residents of the village.
At Alki, July 4, i860, by Dr. D. S. Maynard, justice of the peace, Mr.
Charles Plummer, the senior member of the firm above mentioned, and Mrs.
Sarah J. Harris, late of Lowell, Mass.
Near Steilacoom, Pierce County, September 5, i860, at the residence of Mr.
and Mrs. Sherwood Bonney, the bride's parents, by Rev. George W. Sloan,
Mr, Oliver C. Shorey and Miss Mary E. Bonney. Air. and Mrs. Shorey came to
Seattle to live the following year and made it their permanent home.
A double wedding was an unusual event in this community, so when Mr.
Thomas S. Russell and his partner in business, Harry E. Hitchcock, took unto
themselves wives every newspaper on the Sound chronicled the fact. Mr. Russell
was married to Miss Susan E. Crow and Mr. Hitchcock to Miss ]\Iaria McMil-
lan, by Thomas Mercer, judge of probate, in Seattle, October 2, i860.
At Seattle, October 24, i860, by Rev. Daniel Bagley, Mr. George F. Frye to
Miss Louisa C. Denny, eldest daughter of Air. Arthur A. Denny.
In the fall of 1857 the editor of an Olympia paper was one of a party of
gentlemen who made the tour of the Sound country, and on his return gave his
readers an excellent account of his trip and of the conditions as he found them
all over the Sound, including Victoria, San Juan, Bellingham Bay, Port Town-
send and the several milling ports, of which Seattle was then one of the least
important.
His remarks concerning this place are quoted in full :
"We here find four flourishing mercantile and lumbering establishments. The
first one is that of H. L. Yesler, who has also a steam sawmill, running night
and day, and manufacturing during the year a vast amount of lumber for foreign
and domestic ports. He has employed daily, in the aggregate, throughout the
year from twenty to twenty-five hands. The other business houses are those of
Messrs. C. C. Terry, Doctor Williamson ( who lias a drug store connected with
articles of general merchandise), Plummer & Chase, and Horton & Co. There
are two taverns or boarding houses kept in the town, one by Mr. Simons, and the
other by Mrs. Conklin. There are some five mechanic shops in the place, car-
penters, joiners, etc. Franklin Matthias and Henry Adams, as carpenters, have
contributed much towards the building up of the place, which now contains, in
both additions, some fifty houses. A tannery is also in operation, carried on by
M. D. Woodin, who has recently shipped to California, besides several hundred
tanned 'buckskin,' a large quantity of boot, shoe and harness leather.
"As we have often before observed, King County has suffered more severely
in the late Indian war, than any other, bordering upon the Sound. At the date of
the outbreak, L. M. Collins (who has been a settler for years, about three miles
to the southward of Seattle on the Duwamish River) after the White River mas-
sacre, was the last man to abandon his claim, and the first man to return to it
after an apparent cessation of hostilities. Mr. Collins volunteered in defence
of the county to which he belonged, and in behalf of the territory in general
excursions, and the result is evidenced by several tufts of 'Siwash' hair, taken
in defence of his person and property. Characters of this kind, although not
properly appreciated by the generation in which they live, become 'Simon Kentons'
and 'Daniel Boons,' in after historj-."
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 47
The residence of Doctor Maynard, at Alki Point, was entirely destroyed by
fire in February, 1858, with an estimated loss of $5,000. The doctor was absent
at the time.
Of much local interest was the call for bids from United State military
officers, early in 1858, for the opening of a military road from Steilacoom to
Bellingham Bay. Through the timber it was to be cut twenty-five feet in width
and the trees level with the ground. Some grading was required. The width of
the corduroying was fixed at twelve feet. It was stipulated that the part of the
road between the Puyallup River and Seattle must be completed by October of
tliat year. As a matter of fact it was not finished until just two years after
iliat date.
In November, 1856, Commander Swartwout, of the United States Steamer
.Massachusetts, had a one-sided engagement with a large party of Northern
Indians near Port Gamble. When the battle commenced the Indians had 117
fighting men, as admitted by them later.
The trouble began several days earlier when the Indians committed minor
depredations at points along the upper Sound. Captain Swartwout was notified
and imniedialely went in pursuit and on the 20th found them encamped in large
force.
An oftlcer and party of men with an interpreter was dispatched under orders
to have a friendly talk with the natives and endea\'or to prevail upon them to
leave for Victoria at once. Armed Indians came down to the beach, threatening
to shoot anyone who might land and daring the party to come ashore and fight.
The shii)'s ])arty, under command of Lieutenant Young, who had received
orders not to land or come in collision with tlic Indians, finding attempts at
conciliation of no avail, returned to the ship. A larger party, consisting of a
launch and two cutters well armed, and forty-five men, was again dispatched
with orders to tell the Indians how large a force there was on the ship and how
impossible it would be for them to resist; also promising them immunity for
past ofTenses if they would at once leave peaceably.
This they refused contemptuously and continued to treat Lieutenant Young
and party in most insulting and threatening manner. Again the jiarty was
recalled.
I'inding peace negotiations of no avail the captain proceeded to harsher
measures. Next morning the ship was anchored in a good position about si.\
hundred yards from shore and the little Sound steamer Traveler and a launch,
both with field pieces on board, were dispatched to take up a position from
which a raking fire could be obtained, and then a third party was sent to again
attempt to persuade the Indians to abandon attempts at resistance, and to warn
them that this time they would be fired on if they continued to refuse. Instead of
yielding, the Indians took up positions behind logs and trees with their guns
pointed ready for use. A cannon ball was sent over their heads and in a moment
a general fusillade began on both sides. A large party, covered by musketry
and howitzers, landed in face of a heavy fire, having to wade breast deep, charged
tiie Indians and drove them from their shelter into the woods.
Their hut.s and canoes and other property were destroyed, to the value of
several thousands of dollars. The Indians continued defiant, and desultory fir-
48 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
ing was kept up during the day. The next m-orning- they had experienced a
change of heart, sued for peace and surrendered unconditionally.
It was ascertained that their loss was twenty-seven killed and twenty-one
wounded. One white sailor was killed and another wounded.
The whole party was received on board the ship and taken to Victoria and
from there returned to their own home by the I'.ritish Columbia authorities.
The lesson they received at that time taught them the futility of resistance
to a ship-of-war or to an armed force of the Government, but it did not prevent
clandestine visits from marauding parties.
Maj. Granville O. Haller, while in command of the garrison at Fort Town-
send, several times secured the services of the revenue cutter, Jefferson Davis,
and drove these Northern Indians from the lower Sound. In October, 1837, a
dozen canoe loads of them captured a canoe load of Puget Sound Indians and
either murdered them or carried them off as slaves.
At that time several families had left W'hidby Island in fear of these north-
ern savages, who openly boasted they would have the heads of three Americans
for each one of their people killed the previous winter by the Massachusetts.
It was many years before individual white men and parties of Indians of
the lower Sound were entirely freed from danger. More than once in the early
'60s, the .writer saw the local Indians camped on the beach in the village hastily
dumping their household effects into their canoes and paddling across the bay
toward the mouth of the Duwamish River. The cause of the commotion was
apparent. The enormous canoes, filled with powerful Indians, could be seen
coming from around West Point. The largest of these war canoes would carry
sixty men who could drive their craft, on occasion, ten miles an hour. The
fright exhibited by local Indians was because of former experience with these
fierce people from the north, for neither they nor their cabins were molested at
the times mentioned by the writer. The present errands of the visitors from the
far north were peaceful. They brought their accustomed articles of barter
and for a time drove a brisk trade in the village. Some of them possessed con-
siderable rude skill in fashioning rings, bracelets and other ornaments of silver
and gold, and the village belles among the palefaces did not disdain to wear
the trinkets fashioned for them by some stalwart savage who would not have
hesitated to cut her throat had opportunity safely offered.
Under the white man's law each individual is supposed to be punished only
for an offense or crime of his own commission. With the Indian and his tribal
laws and customs the family or the tribe may have to bear vicarious punishment
and the individual offender entirely escape. This racial difference in thought and
custom was the cause of a large part of the wrongs endured by w'hite settlers
at the hands of their Indian neighbors in pioneer days. Brutal murders of
Indians, committed by criminal white men or offenses against the persons or
property of the natives by white brutes, imperiled, not so much their own lives,
as those of innocent men, women and children near the scene of the crimes or
perhaps a hundred miles away.
If an Indian chief were killed by a white man the relatives of the Indian
held it their duty to kill a white man of influence in his own community. If an
Indian tyee were murdered a white tyee must also be killed to balance the
account.
HISTORY Ul' SEATTLE 49
Late in 1854 the son of a prominent chief of the Simpsian tribe was shot
down in cold blood near Olympia by a white man. Tiie members of his tribe
wrapijcd the body of their young chieftain in a blanket and sorrowfully paddled
away into the far north, vowing to take vengeance at some future day. They
were of a race well known to pursue with undying hatred oflfenses against mem-
bers of their tribe unless adequate compensation were paid.
During the summer of 1857 the milling and logging industry was fairly
brisk and the Sound community peaceful, when, like a bolt of lightning out of
a clear sky, came the shocking re])ort of Colonel Ebey's death. It was perhaps
never fully settled whether his murder was in revenge for the murder above
mentioned at Olympia, or for the killing of the Indian chief by the United States
forces on the Massachusetts, but it was generally accepted that the tragedy was
attributable to motives of revenge for one or the other.
Col. Isaac N. Ebey was one of the most notable men of that period in Wash-
ington Territory, as well as one of the first settlers in the lower Sound country.
The earliest exploration of the Valley of Duwamish and White rivers and of
Lake Washington was made by him in 1S50. He had served in the Oregon Legis-
lature while Washington was yet included in Oregon. From the organization
of the Customs Service on Puget Sound, he served in it in some capacity, and at
the lime of his murder he was collector of the Puget Sound District. In him
the Indians found the tyee on whose innocent head they might wreak their
vengeance. August 11, 1S57, he crossed over from Point Townscnd to his farm
on Whidby Island. Late in the evening he was called to the door and fell dead
from a shot through the heart. As was the custom of the Northern Indians, his
head was severed from the body and carried away as a trophy. The savages
had satisfied their spirit of revenge and fled homeward.
The British Columbia authorities interested themselves and secured the
return of the murdered man's head, some six months later, and his grave was
opened to receive it.
Although the Indian war was ended on the Sound in 1856, and the volun-
teers released from further service, it was not until the fall of 1S58 that the
forces of the regular army succeeded in whipping the hostile tribes in Eastern
Washington into submission.
In April of that year Colonel Steptoe, with a force of 160 dragoons, attempted
to march from Walla W'alla through the Palouse country into the Spokane and
Coeur d'Alene region, and grit most thoroughly whipped by the hostile tril)es
near Steptoe's Butte, north of the present City of Colfax.
Gen. Newman S. Clarke had succeeded General Wool in command of the
northern district, and, after a consultation with Cols. George Wright and C. J.
Steptoe and subordinate officers, determined on an expedition that would not
repeat the many blunders of previous ones made by officers and troops of the
regular army who had become the objects of general derision among, not only
the Indians by whom they had so often suffered defeat, but among the settlers,
as well.
Companies of artillery, infantry and dragoons were brought from Southern
Oregon and from California to the number of 800 and were drilled thoroughly
together. At this time these troops had been armed with long range rifles far
superior to the weapons of the Indians, something unusual, by the way, in nearly
50 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
all the battles in which United States troops have been engaged from that day to
this, not excepting the Spanish war.
The combined forces were under the command of Colonel Wright who, in
August, marched his troops overland from Walla Walla through the Palouse
country into the Spokane country, having to fight superior numbers of the
Indians most of the way. His trained soldiers inflicted heavy losses upon the
savages in every engagement and suffered none, themselves. In September the
hostiles sued for peace on any terms, having been thoroughly whipped in every
battle.
In compliance with Colonel ^^''right's demand they surrendered their horses
and the animals were imiuediately shot excepting a few kept by the troops for
their own use. This left the Spokanes practically dismounted. The colonel also
demanded the surrender of a large number of Indians who had given unusual
cause of offense, and some twenty-five or thirty of them were immediately hanged
by his orders.
He also received hostages to be held as a guaranty for future good conduct.
The hostiles were thoroughly cowed into submission and agreed to remain at
peace with the Nez Perces, who had always been friendly toward the whites
and who had been threatened by the hostiles for not joining with them. The
most important feature of the victories of Colonel Wright's command and the
subsequent surrender of the Indians was the agreement of the latter that in
future white men should not be molested while traveling through the Indian
country, a stipulation that was rarely broken afterward. From that date the
development of Eastern Washington began, though General Clarke ordered it
closed to settlement. In 1859 Gen. \\'. S. Harney succeeded General Clarke in
command of the district and at once rescinded the order.
In this connection is given the estimate made by the eminent historian Frances
Fuller Victor of death among settlers, emigrants, prospectors, trappers and
transient white men at the hands of Indians in Oregon and Washington between
1850 and 1862. It reached the appalling aggregate of more than two thousand.
Few murders of whites or destruction of their property in Washington occurred
after the expedition of Colonel Wright above noted.
At the close of i860, more than four years after the volunteer forces on the
Sound had been discharged and the Indian war here considered at an end, Seattle
and King County had not regained their population nor recovered from their
losses. Many farms, under cultivation in 1855, when Indian hostilities began,
had not been reoccupied. Fences and buildings had been destroyed, stock killed
or driven away, leaving most of the settlers in an impoverished condition. All
but the most courageous or the most venturesome had left the country. The
season for planting had pretty well passed when hostilities on the Sound had
ceased and the volunteers been disbanded so they could return to their several
pursuits in 1856.
In 1857 the indomitable pluck of the pioneer was shown by the more resolute
who carried their rifles with them to their fields and did their plowing and seed-
ing under conditions familiar to their forbears a half century earlier in the then
Great West. Each year their activities widened and extended until in i860 a
considerable acreage was once more under cultivation. An Olympia paper
records that in the fall of i860 Thomas M. Alvord had just harvested nearly one
I
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 51
Ihousaiul Inislicls of wheat and that John Thomas had raised ninety bushels of
oats to the acre, both in the Upper Wliiie River X'alicy near each other.
I'or about ten years, beginning in 1855, the Pacific Northwest witnessed
mining excitements over a wide area. Colville, Simili<imeen, Rock Creek, Eraser
and Thompson's rivers, Cassiar, Stikine, Lillooet, Wenatchce, Florence, Boise,
and scores of other locahties where the bars and banks of the streams yielded
placer gold, were household words.
The Indian war was precipitated in 1S55 by the appearance in many parts
of Eastern Washington of ever increasing bands of independent prospectors
coming there from Washington and Oregon and even from California. The
Indians realized fully that these miners were but the forerunners of an army of
other white men who would soon occupy all the best of the lands. All over that
anintry north to the boundary line prosjK'ctors fell victims to the wrath of the
Indians. The number was never fully known but its total ran into hundreds.
During 1858-9 thousands went into British Columbia, to the total in one
twelve-month of 100.000. At one time 10,000 were camped on the shores of
Bellingham Bay en route to Eraser River, Thompson's River, and other gold
j)roducing streams.
Some of Seattle's scanty iropulation joined the rush with varying measure
of success. However, not all of the refle.x tide returned whence it came. The
Sound country held a lot of it and these men, hardy, brave, intelligent, enter-
prising, made up for what had been lost during and after the Indian war. Seattle
and the rest of Western Washington gained little in gold from tliose early min-
ing ventures, but the men who elected to cast in their lot here at that time, with
their descendants, have exerted forces for material good continuing to the pres-
ent day.
During the summer of i860 nearly all of the unmarried men in Seattle went
to the mines. For a time Yesler's mill had to close down because all of its
operatives joined the rush. Rock Creek, Wenatchee and other points in Eastern
Washington were then the points of attraction. Charles Plummer, Louis V.
Wyckoff, Thomas Russell, Charles C. Terry, S. B. Abbott, Henry H. Hyde,
later all solid men of Seattle, either went to the mines in person or engaged in
outfitting packtrains to take supplies from Seattle into the several mining camps.
The trail through the Snoqualmie Pass was the recognized route of travel to
and from Seattle.
CHAPTER III
THE INDIAN WAR PERIOD
The "organic act" that separated Washington from Oregon Territory was
approved by the President March 2, 1853, and ahnost immediately following
the accession of Franklin Pierce to the presidency he nominated Isaac L.
Stevens as governor of the territory, who was confirmed March 17th. This act
made the governor commander-in-chief of the militia and superintendent of
Indian affairs, and subsequent events proved the wisdom of the selection of the
first executive.
Gov. Isaac I. Stevens was one of the great men of his day, and when the
early history of this commonwealth shall have been written this fact will be
recognized by every reader thereof.
Owing to his surveying and other duties it was not until November, 1853, that
he reached Olynipia. On his arrival he found considerable complaint concern-
ing the hostile attitude of the Indian tribes. One of his first acts was to famil-
iarize himself with all phases of the Indian problem. He took a sail-boat down
the Sound, visited the settlements, heard the complaints of both Indians and
whites, and took a census of the Indians in the whole Sound region. In his
message of February, 1854, he reminded the Legislature that the Indians owned
their land until Congress should secure it by treaty, and called particular atten-
tion to the encroachments of the whites on the rights of the natives and to their
discontent resulting therefrom. He recommended that Congress be memorial-
ized to extinguish the Indian title at once, and called attention to the necessity
of a military system to protect the white settlers from the savages. The Legis-
lature promptly prepared and passed the memorial and in due time Congress
adopted the recommendation for the extinguishment of the Indian title, and em-
powered Governor Stevens to make treaties with them to that effect. The only
means of communication around the Sound then was by canoes or by harassing
journeys over rough Indian trails.
There were less than four thousand white settlers in all the vast region west
of the Cascade Mountains — scattering settlements, reaching from Vancouver,
Clarke County, along the lower Columbia, up the Cowlitz River, on the plains of
the Chehalis Valley and from there to Steilacoom ; a few at Olympia, less at
Seattle, and a handful at three or four places lower down the Sound. With
these Governor Stevens began to organize a civil government.
When the machinery had been set fairly to work he started out to take a
census of the Indian tribes and familiarize himself with their habits and ascer-
tain their general attitude toward the white settlers, and in later years he regarded
his management of Indian affairs as one of the great works of his life. During
four years he treated and dealt with over thirty thousand Indians, and by these
treaties extinguished their title to a domain larger than New England.
l-./'.i\.\ .\i i-.i-.Ki-.k
"Y
HISTORY OF SRATTI.K 3A
He gained the confidence of large tribes, particularly the Nez Perces, and his
tact and good judgment, coupled with firmness, did much to prevent earlier out-
breaks at a time when there was no organized militia nor Govermiient troops
to cope with the vastly superior forces that might have been luirk-d against
tliem.
In 1852 and 1853 'he immigrants crossing the plains were so numerous that
they had experienced little trouble from the savages, but in 1854 and 1855 several
trains were attacked and men, women and children massacred.
Col. Granville O. Haller, who died in Seattle a few years ago, leaving a
host of friends here and all over Puget Sound, was then in command of the
regimental jxist at The Dalles, Ore. Late in 1854 he made an attempt to ])unish
the murderers of the Ward train near the confluence of the lioise and Snake
rivers. The season was far advanced and the Indians fled into the mountains,
so Colonel Haller returned to The Dalles, but next summer he again led his
forces across the Blue Mountains into the Boise Valley and pursued the savages
until he secured the murderers and executed them.
In the first days of settlement the Indians were generally friendly but after
two or three years they began to commit murders and other savage crimes
when they thought they could not be (letected, giving the settlers some uneasiness.
In 1853 a white man named James M. McCormick, probably, was killed and
buried near Seattle on the shore of Lake Union. This crime might have reniaiiud
unknown, but some Indians, animated by jealousy, reported the murder. The
bo<ly was disinterred, but the victim was a stranger whom no one could i>osi-
tively identify. As a result of the investigation, four Indians were arrested
and tried before a justice court held in the old Felker house. Klap-Ke-
Cachi Jim gave positive evidence against two of them and involved the other
two. A verdict of guilty was followed by the hanging of the first two from a
tall stump on the site where later stood the New England Hotel. C. D. Boren,
sheriff, had charge of the prisoners during the progress of this case. One of the
two im|jlicated was a young Indian who was kept locked in Mr. i'>oren's house
and was believed by many citizens to be as guilty as were the two who were
executed. A band of citizens gathered to take the law into their own hands.
When Sheriff P.oren was absent they took this Indian in custody, marched him
to a convenient tree, placed a noose around his neck and were on the |.ciiiit uf
"stringing him uj)" when they were prevented by the hurried return of Boren,
wiio had been ajjprised of the lawless proceeding. Previous to this an Indian
who had killed his squaw was hanged liy the whites without the formality of
judge or jury. Three persons were indicted for this offense. (Jne of them
stood trial for murder, but was acquitted, while the other two were discharged
without trial. In a spirit of retaliation the friends of the Indian executed killed
two white men. one named Rogers and the other named Phillijis. The.se instances
are here detailed as throwing some light upon the relations existing between the
Sound settlers and their aboriginal neighlwrs at a period not long preceding the
Indian U|)rising.
In the sjjring of 1X54 many circumstances indicated the a])proach of serious
trouble with the Indians of the Puget Sound region. Governor Stevens prepared
and issued a voluminous paper of instructions setting forth the duties of both the
whites and the Indians. In March, 1S54. Michael T. Simmons was appointed
54 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
spCicial Indian agent of the Puget Sound district. He immediately prepared and
circulated a document requesting the settlers to comply with certain instructions
when dealing with the natives.
The old Indian policy of the Government was to remove the natives westward
as the settlements of the whites advanced in that direction, but in 1853 President
Pierce inaugurated the new policy of placing them on reservations and of com-
mencing soon to cut down their domain, in order to force them in the end to take
up farming. It was not until December, 1854, nearly two full years after the
territory was formed, that the first treaty with the Indians of Washington Terri-
tory was concluded.
Under this treaty the Indians were allowed the privilege of catching fish, pas-
turing animals on unclaimed land, gathering roots and berries, and living in the
vicinity of the settlements at the sufferance of the whites. Provision was made
to supjjly the Indians with an agricultural and industrial school and with suitable
teachers, a blacksmith, farmer, carpenter and physicians at the agency. Nearly
every member of the several tribes was present. Six hundred and thirty-three
actually ratified the treaty and their chiefs and delegates signed it. Great pains
were taken to explain the provisions of the treaty, and the Indians then seemed
entirely satisfied. It was arranged to treat with the remaining Indians on the
Sound at a later date.
On December 8, 1854, A. A. Denny introduced in the House a joint resolution
requesting Congress to authorize the governor of the territory to accept the
services of two companies of mounted volunteers to serve for twelve months in
quelling Indian troubles, recovering stolen property and affording protection to
immigrants from the South Pass in the Rocky Mountains westward to the Pacific
on the immigrant route to the Territories of Oregon and Washington. The reso-
lution was read and referred to the Committee on Indian Affairs.
On December 26, 1854, a treaty was made with the several Indian tribes at
the head of the Sound whereby they relinquished their lands to the Government.
Three small tracts were reserved for their use and occupation — an island oppo-
site Skookum Bay; a tract of 1,280 acres on the Sound west of the meridian
line, and 1,280 acres on the Puyallup River near its mouth.
On January 22, 1855, Governor Stevens, C. H. Mason, territorial secretary,
and Col. M. T. Simmons, Indian agent, concluded another treaty at Point Elliott
near the mouth of the Snohomish River, about ten miles from Skagit Head on
Possession Sound. Presents of blankets and clothing were made to the chief for
distribution among those who were present, as well as for absent members of the
tribes. At the conclusion of the treaty a salute of thirty-one guns was fired by
the little steamer Major Tompkins. Speeches were made on this occasion by the
four head chiefs, Seattle, Pat Kanim, Goliah and Chowethzoet, who expressed the
satisfaction, good faith and friendship of the natives. The following tribes or
bands were represented : Snohomish, Skokomish, Duwamish, Oueelewamish,
Scawamish, Snoqualniie, Sakaquells, Scadgets, Squinamish, Keekeallis, Sdoqua-
chams, Swinimish, Nooksacks and Lummy.
Immediately following this treaty another was held at Point-no-Point, where
more than one thousand Indians assembled. Several speeches were made by the
head chiefs of the Chimicums, Skokomish and Clallam tribes. The speech of
Lord Jim of the Clallam tribe touching their domestic and peculiar institutions
X
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 55
Ml slavery, which tliuy liad been urged to abandon, was delivered in good style.
He said their forefathers had held slaves through a long succession of ages; that
ihey disliked to depart from the usages of their ancestors; that they regarded their
slaves as property, as much of a chattel as their canoes, blankets or houses, and
that they were the same to them as hy-u gold dollars.
Other treaties were held and the Sound Indians put in an agreeable frame
ot mind. Tlic principal object of the treaties w-as to prepare the country for the
surveys tliat were to be made as soon as the Indian title had been extinguished
and their reservations defined.
The year 1855 was jjcrhaps the most memorable one in the Northwest. Gov-
ernor Stevens was making treaties with the Indians in \\'ashinglon ; emigrants
were crossing the plains ; a gold discovery near Fort Colvillc caused a great rush
of miners from all over the Pacific Coast, and all these incidents served to con-
vince the more restless spirits of the native tribes that if ever attempt was to be
made to stay the increasing. tide of white migration then was the time to begin.
.\mong these, Kamiahkan, of the Yakimas, was the master mind, and in the
struggle that followed he proved himself a great war chief.
A. J. Bolon, special agent of the Yakimas, in August, went entirely unattended
to visit him, hoping to influence him to remain at peace, but was murdered by a
nephew of the chief he was going to see. About the same time Henry Mattice, of
Olympia, was killed by the Yakimas. Also a party of five men, residents of King
County, named Jamieson, Charles Walker, L. O. Merilet, J. C. Avery and Eugene
Barier, started from Seattle through the Snoqualmie Pass for the gold mines in
ilie Colville country. After crossing the divide they found the camping grounds
and other traces of two men, O. M. Eaton and Joseph Fanjoy, also of King
County, who had preceded them a few days ; but these had disappeared, and later
it was found that these two men had also been murdered. The five above named
were met by Indians, who pretended to be friendly, and deceived the whites into
believing they were on the wrong trail. Jamieson and Walker went ahead to be
shown the route and were soon killed by their treacherous guides. The other
three heard the shots and found out the fate of their companions in time to take
to the brush, and by hiding in the daytime and traveling by night, most of the
lime in the woods ofT the trail, escaped Ipack to Seattle in an almost famished
condition.
The.se murders occurred in September, 1855. On the night of the 27111 the
liouse of A. L. Porter, after whom Porter's Prairie, King County, was named, was
attacked, but he had felt there was danger and had slept out in the woods some
distance from his cabin of nights, so when the Indians came he fled down White
River and warned the other settlers, who all came to Seattle. During the absence
of Governor Stevens, Secretary Mason was acting governor, and when he heard
of this e.xodus of white settlers he secured an escort of regular troops from Fort
Steilacoom and went out into the White and Green River countries to talk with
the Indians. They professed friendship for the whites and represented that there
was no danger of an attack upon the latter, and that they were silly for leaving
their homes. They succeeded in deceiving Mason and he came to Seattle, antl by
his arguments persuaded some of the settlers to return to their farms. He also
very nearly persuaded Captain Stcrrett that there was no use of his vessel being
ke])t at Seattle ; that the people here were merely anxious to get the benefit of the
56 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
trade of the ship. This the captain repeated very angrily to Arthur A. Denny.
The latter said, "I have no power to prevent your leaving us, and if the people
who have come here for safety return to their homes they will be murdered in a
fortnight." After reflecting a short time the captain said: "How can I tell
whom to believe; you seem to be so earnest I will stay and find taut for myself."
Efforts failed to persuade those who went back to their homes not to do so.
It has been remarkable in frontier life for nearly three centuries how reckless
of the lives of themselves and their families the advance guards of civilization
have ever been. It was known that the Indian tribes in Eastern Washington
were in a state of war; that Bolon, Mattice, Fanjoy and others had been mur-
dered there, and that the mountain passes were open so that at any time small
or large bands could come across the mountains, even if there were no great
danger from the Indians on this side, still these men took their families back to
their death.
The necessity for the organization of the militia was apparent to every
observer early in 1855. The disturbances on Bellingham Bay in 1854, which
resulted in robbery and murder by Indian bands, and ruthless atrocities in Oregon,
where neither age nor sex was spared, were sufficient to cause the most earnest
solicitude as to what the Indians of the Sound might do when warm weather
should arrive. Early in the year there were rumors afloat that the northern
Indians designed a repetition of their acts of rapine and murder of the year
before; hence it was that Governor Stevens held treaties with the Sound Indians
and the Legislature passed an act for the complete organization of the territo-
rial militia. Under this act each legislative Council district was constituted a
regimental district, and at the next annual election the voters were required to
choose a colonel, lieutenant colonel and major, who were empowered to lay off
each regimental district into company districts within three months, each dis-
trict to contain as nearly as convenient 100 men capable of bearing arms and
aged from fifteen to sixty years, and to organize full companies with suitable
officers to be appointed by the regimental officers. It was also provided that
volunteer companies could be formed in the regimental districts under the super-
vision of the regimental officers. Messrs. Terry and Denny, in the Legislature
from King County, had at first favored a bill asking the Government to send
additional troops to the Sound region, to be in readiness for any possible out-
breaks of the Indians ; but the large influx of settlers seemingly rendered such
a step unnecessary, because the militia, if organized, could doubtless quell any
disturbance that might arise. This was the feeling in the territory and in the
Legislature when the militia bill was passed in 1854. All felt that precautionary
steps should be taken to resist and break up any combination of Indians that might
be formed and chastise them for any wrong doing. The military organization
should be such that at any time, on short notice, a volunteer force could be
dispatched against the Indians in sufficient number not only to quell them, but
to teach them a lesson they would not soon forget. For this purpose cavalry,
riflemen and artillery were demanded, cavalry for Indian field purposes, artillery'
for defense of the harbors and riflemen in conjunction with both.
In March, 1855, Governor Stevens gave notice that claims for damages done
by Indians would have to be made under the regulations of the Indian Depart-
ment. He announced that it must be shown that the property had been mali-
i
i
HISTORY OF SEATTL]', 57
liously destroyed, and thai the person to wlioni it Iteionyed was lawfully within
ihe Indian coimtry; that application for remuneration shuuld be made within
diree years after the commission of the injury; that all necessary proofs should
accompany the application; that in case the Indian could make out a presumption
of ownership the burden of proof should be on the white person; that after [jroof
was complete demand should be made uj)on the Indians for redress if so ordered
by the Indian Department ; that one year would be allowed the Indian in which
to make restitution; that if the restitution was then lacking full report of the
case should be made to the Indian Department, and that every white person
making such complaint should make oath that he w'as not prompted by revenge
nor private satisfaction.
It became known in August and September, 1S55, that the liidian> east ol
the Cascade Mountains wert making overtures to those of the Sound region to
induce them to join in a concerted movement against the whites. The hostility
of the eastern Indians was shown by their attacks on the miners who went there
in search of gold.
Kamiahkan, Qualchen, Pupumoxmox, Unihowlish, Owhi, Teias and others
east of the mountains, and Leschi, Nelson, Kitsap, Tecumseh, Quiemuth and
others on the Sound were the leading spirits. Chief Seattle and his band were
not suspected because of their known friendship for the whiles, but there were
others of the Sound region who could not thus be depended upon.
There were some two hundred regulars at Steilacoom, and volunteers were
called into the field and these were divided into small parties who scouted the
country east of the Sound to the Cascade Mountains, and from the Snohomish
to Chehalis rivers. Over sixty blockhouses and many stockades were constructed.
Immediately after the \\'hite River massacre all the settlers from Seattle to Mon-
licello had gone into these blockhouses or to the larger towns.
On the morning of October 28th the Indians took advantage of the absence
of the military from the immediate vicinity of the upper waters of the White
and Green rivers, and by a sudden attack surprised and murdered nearly all of
those who had returned to their farms a few miles above the present Town of
Kent.
A man named Cox and his wife and Joseph Lake were attacked, but escaped
and gave the alarm as they fled down the river for Seattle. It was learned later
that young Indians who had lived in the families of some of the murdered
settlers and who had been uniformly well treated, and who had protested the
utmost regard for their benefactors, had joined in the massacre.
They kille<l William Drannan, wife and one child; George King, wife and one
ihild; Harry II. Jones and wife, and Enos Cooper, who was working for Jones.
I'^our young children were protected by the leaders of the Indians — all of them
named King. Mr. Jones was the stepfather of three of them. These were sent
away from the Jones' home by Nelson, the leading chief, and told by him to go
to the r.rannan home as Cjuickly as possible. Not far from the house they found
their mother lying on the ground mortally wounded, but still conscious. She
also told them to hurry away and get to the Brannan place if possible. John,
the elder, was only seven, his sister four and the baby brother two years old.
Johnny took his sister by tha hand and she the little brother, and they started
to do as they had been bid. but fortunatelv for them were met by Indian Tom,
58 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
whom they knew and who took them to his cabin nearby, where he and his
kloochman fed and cared for the bereaved httle ones as best they could until
toward morning when the rising moon made it light enough to travel. The kind-
hearted Indian then put them in his canoe and paddled down the river as rapidly
as possible and delivered them in safety to Captain Sterrett on board the
Decatur. Later the little ones were sent to relatives in the eastern states.
In most accounts of the massacre, "Old Curley" is given the credit for saving
these children. Doctor King gives "Tom" as the name he went by, while
David T. Denny, in a note to the writer, said it was David. In his statements
regarding early days Mr. Denny was careful and usually accurate and doubtless
he gave the name correctly.
The fourth child, George King, son of George King and wife, was taken
captive by the Indians and kept by them until the following spring and then
delivered to the military authorities at Steilacoom. The child could not be cared
for properly at the fort and arrangements were made with Ezra Meeker and
wife to keep him for a time. He was about five years old when taken by the
natives and had nearly forgotten his mother tongue when brought in. He was
also sent to his relatives in the eastern states.
The best book that has appeared regarding early days in the Pacific North-
west is "Pioneer Reminiscences," aside from its unkind and unjust attitude
toward Governor Stevens. In this book Mr. Meeker publishes a letter from
Dr. John, King, then living in Ohio, giving his recollections of the events con-
nected with the tragedy and immediately following it.
Mr. Meeker also relates the efforts of Hiton, the Indian who cared for little
George King, to make him his heir. Through industry and frugality Hiton, in
his old age, had accumulated considerable property, and apparently having no
heirs of his own, sought the whereabouts of the little white child he had saved
nearly a half century before. However, it was found that George King had long
since died and Hiton's benevolent intentions were frustrated.
By this lime the whole territory was aflame. Nearly every able-bodied man
went into the volunteer service, and for the next six months the contemporary
newspapers were full of Indian war news all over the Northwest.
There were brave officers in command of the regular army forces, but Gen-
eral Wool, who was in command of this department, prevented them from doing
much to protect the settlers for weeks after the savages had begun their work
of extermination. The reasons for this were various. Wool was jealous of the
fame that Scott and Taylor had achieved in the Mexican war, and arrogated to
himself honors justly their due. While in San Francisco he did this in Gov-
ernor Stevens' presence one day, and the latter, who had served with distinction
in that war, replied quite forcibly, and as he was the head of civil and military
affairs in Washington Territory, Wool took an ignoble revenge by endeavoring
to thwart the governor's movements to quell the Indian uprising. He misrep-
resented the situation of affairs here to his superior officers, and affected to
believe that no danger existed that required the dispatch of soldiers under his
command into the Indian country. He also resented the independent spirit of
the volunteer forces who refused to be mustered under his command, and he
never lost an opportunity of making disparaging remarks about them or of
denouncing as liars the citizens of the territory in a body.
O ra
2 H
HISTORY OJ- SHATTLl-: f,;}
IJowc'vcT, the massacre of the While River settlers apparently convinced him
iliat an Indian war really existed, and the troops at Forts Stcilacoom, Vancouver
and The Dalles were sent into the field, and additional troops to the number of
i.ooo sent u]) from California.
(lovernor Stevens being actively engaged in traveling over the countn,'.
Acting Govemor Mason called out a regiment of volunteers, numbering S63 men
all told, by proclamation dated October 14. 1855, and a second regiment called
out by proclamation dated January 13, 1856, numbering 1,069 ™c" -i" ^o\d.
The names of the company first organized in Seattle appear in the ofificial
ri])orts of the war as follows: Captain, Edward I^^nde^; first lieutenant, Arthur
A. Denny; second lieutenant, D. A. Neely; surgeon, Dr. 11. A. Smith; sergeants,
John Ilenning, C. D. Boren, John Ross, Jacob Wibbens; corporals, James Fielden,
Walter (Iraham, David Maurer, .\sa Fowler; privates, John Phillips, Eli B.
.Maple, William Woodbridge, Solomon Brunn, Charles Miller, James Broad,
I lenry Williams, B. W. Johns, John J. Moss, Ira B. Burlingame, James Mor-
rison, John Ilaney, C. C. Thompson, A. Hargrave, Robert Hicks, Alonzo Russell,
.Samuel Bichtelheimer, Joseph Lake, Peter Lauderville, David Stanley, Robert
11. Beatty, Henry Van Asselt, B. L. Johns, William II. Gilliam, W. W. Ward.
I-:. A. Clarke, William F. Johns, William IT. Brown, A. G. Terry, Lemuel J.
Holgate, (ieorge Bowker, William P. Smith, Samuel A. Maple.
Nearly all the male population capable of military service was engaged in
some capacity. William H. W'allace, a prominent lawyer, elected to Congress
in 1861, and Arthur A. Denny, elected in 1865; James Tilton, first surveyor
general of the territory, adjutant general; C. C. Hewitt, appointed by Abraham
Lincoln one of the district judges and who became chief justice; Edward
Lander, then one of the associate judges, who became aide to the governor, with
rank of lieutenant colonel; Dr. G. K. Willard, regimental surgeon; Col. B. F.
Shaw, assigned to the command of volunteer forces in Walla Walla region ;
William W. Miller, among the first customs olificers, quartermaster and commis-
sary general; Col. I. N. Ebey, also in the customs service in early days.
Later Wallace went to Idaho and held many positions of trust and honor
tiiere; Arthur A. Denny appears all through the history of Seattle for more than
forty years ; Tilton was for years the leader of the democratic party in Wash-
ington, candidate for Congress and active in the afTairs of the commonwealth —
his son Howard is a resident of Seattle; Hewitt's name is interwoven with the
legal and judicial literature of the territory; of Lander the same can be said; he
.dso was a one-time candidate for delegate in Congress, also one of the owners
with Charles C. Terry of a considerable portion of the present heart of the city ;
Willard, of Olympia and prominent there for many years, father of Dr. Rufus
Willard, for years one of the leading physicians of Seattle and who has many
descendants still living here; Shaw, of Vancouver, one of the best Indian fighters
of the early period, who died only a few years ago, full of years and honor;
Miller, one of the leading and most influential citizens of Olympia for a great
many years, iiusband of Mrs. Mary M. Miller, of Seattle, and father of Winlock
W. Miller, one of the present regents of the state university. Mrs. Miller is
the daughter of Judge Obadiah B. McFadden, who was one of the first justices
<'f the .'<u]irenic Court and delegate in Congress in 1872. Col. 1. \'. I''bcy met
tiO HISTORY OF SEATTLE
a tragic fate at his home on Whidby Island a few years later at the hands of
Indians of the far north.
In October Acting Governor Mason had called for four additional com-
panies. One of these, composed of the citizens of the counties of King, Island,
Jefferson, Clallam and Whatcom, was ordered to rendezvous at Seattle. Each
volunteer was directed to furnish his own arms and each company was ordered
to elect its own officers. These four companies were a reserve force and were
ordered to take the field only in case of great necessity. All the members, after
the organization was perfected, were allowed to resume their ordinary vtacations,
but were ordered to be ready to assemble again at the command of their officers.
The citizens of Seattle and the settlers who had come for protection organized
a company and elected C. C. Hewitt captain.
Early in November General Tilton dispatched the steamer Traveler to Seattle
to convey Captain Hewitt's Company H to its assigned post at the junction of
the White and Green rivers. He directed Captain Hewitt, if he could do so,
before leaving for the junction, to aid Indian Agent ^laynard to remove the
Indians from Seattle to the west side of the Sound and to employ force if neces-
sary to exact obedience and to prevent any interference from white men.
Doctor Maynard. Indian sub-agent, pursuant to orders from Michael Sim-
mons, Indian agent, immediately commenced to remove 434 Indians under his
charge to the west side of the Sound. In all nearly one thousand were under
his jurisdiction, but the others were already on the west side. On November
9th, with a suitable guard, he went up the Duwamish and Black rivers, thence
along the east shore of Lake Washington, and notified all the Indians to come
to Seattle to be conveyed across the Sound. He returned on the 13th with a
few families of Duwamish. He soon had here about seventy-five members of
the Suquamish and about one hundred and seventy-five of the Duwamish, but
they appeared restless from some cause which he could not discover. Even
Chiefs Seattle and Nowchise seemed much disturbed. Doctor Maynard then
bought a sloop and hired another from L. M. Collins to follow the second day
with all who could not leave with the first expedition. H. H. Tobin was
appointed to take charge of the second squad. Doctor Maynard. ftirnished with
no means, supplied everything necessary himself, and his wife was his only
assistant with the first squad. On the 20th they left with the sloop loaded
with Indians and with a small fleet of canoes loaded with mats for tents and
equipage.
February preceding, the Legislature had memorialized Congress to station a
man-of-war in these waters. The necessity was urged upon that body for the
protection of the settlements here not only from Indians of Washington, but from
the far more savage and warlike tribes from the far north in British Columbia.
It was represented that a vessel cruising in the waters of Fuca Straits, Canal de
Haro and farther up the Sound would furnish adequate protection. The "North-
ern Indians" had caused the death at intervals of many citizens on the lower
Sound and were also greatly feared by the local tribes.
The settlers felt fairly able to protect themselves against the thousands of
Indians surrounding them, but not equal to the additional task of repelling the
fierce warriors of the north, who came down in their great canoes, pounced upon
r:
-i
X
X
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HISTORY OF SEATTLL Gl
outlying sctllcmciits and iiillagcd and murdered at will and then away home on
the wiugs of the wind.
December 3d Lieutenant Slaughter and sixty-five men camped on lirannan's
Prairie near the present Town of Auburn and sent for Cai)tain Hewitt to come
up there from Seattle for a conference. It was rainy and cold and a fire was
built near the cabin where Slaughter and Hewitt were, the former sitting near the
door. An Indian crejit up near enough to make a sure shot and Slaughter fell
dead instantly.
David T. Denny and a small party brought the body in a canoe to Seattle
and from here it was sent to Steilacoom and there buried. At the time Slaughter
was killed two corporals, Barry and Clarendon, were also killed and six privates
wounded, one mortally.
Immediately following these events the regular troops were withdrawn from
the field and went into garrison at several points, and not long after the volun-
ors, whose term of three months had expired, were mustered out. No great
tear of the Indians on the Sound was felt, and as the winter snows were unusually
heavy in the mountains it was not thought possible for the Klikitats and Yakimas
to cross them. For a time there was a feeling of comparative safety except in
-Seattle. Here friendly Indians kept the whites well informed, and early in
lanuary, 1856, it was known that the leaders among the Indians were planning
111 attack upon the village.
The blockhouse, which had been bcgim some time earlier near the junction
of Cherry Street and First Avenue, the present site of the Starr-Boyd Block,
was soon completed. The timbers from which it was built had been previously
cut for shipment to San Francisco, but were put to use here the moment that
danger from hostile Indians threatened. All joined in the construction work,
the logs being drawn up the hill by ox teams. The timbers were placed close
together and over all was placed a substantial roof. At two corners w^re
bastions of saw-ed lumber from the Yesler mill. In the building of this block-
house the citizens received the generous and hearty co-operation of Captain Ster-
rett, who sent to their assistance a company of marines, whose trained knowledge
uf the kind of work required proved especially valuable. The captain of the
1 'ecatur also supplied the blockhouse with two 9-pound cannon and furnished
Captain Hewitt's company, which was partly organized, with eighteen stand of
arms. Every precaution was now taken to insure the safety of the town. Guards,
both citizens and marines, were stationed around the settlement and blockhouse
every night, and parties of armed men, both volunteers and marines, were occa-
sionally sent out into the surrounding country to ascertain, if possible, the presence
1 hostile Indians. .Mthough no evidence could be gathered that gave any posi-
tive assurance that an attack would be made upon the town, the operations of the
Indians not many miles remote from Seattle caused the settlers to be apprehen-
sive of danger and to be constantly on the alert.
Captain Gansevoort assumed command of the Decatur December loth.
The citizens of Seattle met at the house of II. L. Yesler on the evening of
Xovembcr 13, 1S55, and appointed David Phillips chairman and E. H. Clark
secretary. Capt. C. C. Hewitt stated that the object of the meeting was to
express the feelings of the citizens concerning the retirement of Captain Sterrctt
of the Decatur on the retired list of the navy. On motion of Mr. Yesler a com-
62 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
niittee of four was appointed to draft resolutions to be submitted to a meeting
to be assembled the following evening. The committee consisted of A. A. Dennv,
C. C. Hewitt, W. A. Strickler and H. L. Yesler. One of the resolutions was as
follows: "That Commander Isaac S. Sterrett, of the sloop-of-war Decatur.
is deserving of the highest praise from the citizens of Seattle and vicinity for
his timely aid in our present Indian troubles and for his continued vigilance in
guarding the inhabitants of Puget Sound against the attacks of the savages."
The other resolutions spoke highly of him as an officer and friend of the settlers
and of his faithfulness in the line of duty. They ended with the request that
the action for his retirement might be reconsidered. On motion of T. S. Russell
the resolutions were unanimously adopted.
When the sickening details tjf the White River massacre became known at
Seattle, all doubt of the true attitude of the Indians was removed, and those who
had up to this time ridiculed the idea that the town was in any danger from an
attack by the Indians, now eagerly demanded that measures should be taken to
properly protect the people. All now realized the true situation, and there was
no delay in providing suitable means for defense.
After Captain Sterrett had armed the citizens and aided them to complete
tlie blockhouse, the Decatur left November 20th for Steilacoom, but upon his
arrival at that port Captain Sterrett, learning that Company H had been ordered
to proceed up White River, thus leaving Seattle without armed protection, dis-
patched Lieut. A. T. Drake and eight marines to the town to guard the block-
house and protect the women and children. On December 2d th6 Decatur
returned and again anchored at Seattle, but the next day weighed anchor and
sailed for Port Madison to protect the settlers from the northern Indians. Upon
receiving news on the 5th of December of the killing of Lieutenant Slaughter
and members of his command, Captain Sterrett returned with the Decatur tx3
Seattle and conveyed the killed and wounded to Steilacoom. where the latter
could receive better care.
On the return of Company II from White River it was completely organized
and armed. As a result of its services the company was enrolled for the field
at the office of the adjutant general, and was ordered to establish a post at the
forks of White and Green rivers and to place itself in communication with
superior officers. Captain Sterrett, who was compelled to send nearly all his
small arms to Olympia, purchased others with which to arm the citizens at
Seattle, who were nearly destitute of this means of defense. He remained with
the Decatur at Seattle, which was then the most exposed place on the Sound,
knowing that the vessel alone could prevent any serious calamity to the town.
On December 7, 1855, the Decatur struck an uncharted rock near Bain-
bridge Island, was hauled up at high tide and was worked on until January 19th
before the injury was repaired. It was then removed to its former anchorage
and made ready to sweep the village in case of an attack. It will appear from this
that the village had a narrow escape, for had the accident occurred a few days
later it would have been almost defenseless.
About the middle of January, 1856, Lieutenant Crosbie was ordered to proceed
to Seattle and there to take the company commanded by Colonel Lander and
examine the shores of Lake Duwamish (Washington), erect a blockhouse or
blockhouses at accessible points, and join the naval forces for a combined mili-
HISTORY ul' .^l-.Ai J IJ- 6:(
lary movement from Seattle against the reported liostiies around or near that
laUe. General Tilton told him that his mission would be accomplished if he
tould induce the forces then occupying the town and harbor of Seattle to demon-
strate their ability to advance, occupy and maintain a footing in the country
lying eastward of Seattle. On examination of the situation at Seattle, Lieu-
tenant Crosliie reported that the Decatur with forty nun on board at Seattle
was invulnerable to attack, and that there would be available about one hurtdretl
and fifty men to garrison Seattle and fit out a boat expedition to the lakes. He
believed it advisable to let fifty men occupy Seattle and one hundred go with the
boats, and to let Colonel Lander build his blockhouse on the shore of Lake Wash-
ington and open the road to Seattle. If there were two companies of regulars at
Seattle, nearly all would be available for blows upon the enemies iuiconjunclioii
•.vith the forces operating from Muckleshoot. Colonel Lander's force could hold
the blockhouse on the lake and keep 0])en the communication with Seattle.
During the entire period of the Indian war there were, within the immediate
vicinity of Seattle, many Indians whose friendship for their white neighbors was
sincere and loyal. Especially was this true of old Seattle and his tribe, and of
I'at Kanim and his tribe of Snoqualmies. The friendship of the latter chief was
doubted by a few, but there was nothing in his conduct to warrant the belief that
he was in any way treacherous. At one time, shortly after the White River
massacre. Lieutenant Slaughter sent word to Governor Mason that I'at Kanim
was following his party, evidently with hostile intentions. On receipt of this
information Governor Mason sent an express to Captain Stcrrett instructing him
to arrest two of Pat Kanim"s brothers, with all the members of his tribe who
were then camping near Seattle, and to put tlRin in irons. Captain Sterrett,
who had previously received information from A. A. Denny that Pat Kanim
was well disposed toward the settlers, did not wish to take such an imix)rtaiit
step without consulting Mr. Denny. He therefore informed the latter of the
orders which he had received. Mr. Demiy, who had ])osilive knowledge that
this chief and his tribe were not in the part of the country where IJeutenant
Slaughter was operating, earnestly protested against carrying the instructions
into execution, cJainn'ng that he knew Lieutenant Slaughter was mistaken, and
that they had enemies enough to look after without attacking their friends. "1
linally proposed," says Mr. Denny, 'if lie would not dislurl) iIk- Snoqualmies.
I would be responsible for their good conduct, and would prove to him that
Slaughter was wrong by going to Pat Kain'm's camp and bringing him in. Cap-
tain Sterrett positiv.ely refused to allow me to leave town, but consented that I
might send an exi)ress for Pat Kanim and stand responsible for him until his
return, having a lime agreed upon within which he would be back. Very for-
tunately for me, and probably for Pat Kanim, too, the latter was on hand within
the time agreed upon. I le had his women and children with him, and also brought
a cargo of mountain shee]i, venison, horns and hides, sjiecimens of which he
presented to the captain, who exiiressed the greatest surprise and satisfaction
with the conclusive proof 1 had thus furnished of the good faith and friendship
of the SnTK|ualmies." From that time all doubt was removed of Pat Kanim's
real attitude toward the whites, and soon after he was employed iiy liu' goveniur.
at the head of a small party of his tribes to act as a scout, and did good service.
The news of the coiUemplated attack on January 2f>. iR^fi. which was revelled
64 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
by Indian Jim and liis squaw, was first communicated to Doctor Williamson and
by him promptly to Mr. Yesler. The latter, in turn, quickly transferred the
information to Captain Gansevoort, who immediately ordered his marines ashore
with special instruction to I-ieutenant Morris to fire a shell into the hut, where
it was presumed the Indians had congregated. Following his instructions the
howitzer was loaded and fired. The aim was accurate. The shell struck the
cabin, exploded and demolished it. The boom of the gun had hardly died away
before it was followed by a terrific war whoop and a volley from the guns of
the savages along their whole line. Then followed a general stampede of men,
women and children for the blockhouses, and had it not been for the fact that
the guns in the hands of the Indians had been generally emptied by the first
volley, many of the inhabitants would have fallen on the way to a place of safety.
I'^ortunately all escaped without injury. It was about breakfast time when the
cannon shot rang out. Many amusing as well as terrifying incidents occurred
in this hurried flight of the half-dressed and hungry population. All made for
the blockhouse and a little later many were escorted by the troops to the two
vessels in the harbor. After the battle the upper story of the blockhouse was
partitioned into small rooms, where several families resided until all danger was
past. In the fort, on the day of the battle, were the following: W. N. Bell
and family, John Buckley and wife, D. A. Neely and family, Hillory Butler and
wife, Mr. Holgate and family. Timothy Grow, Thomas Mercer and his four
daughters, B. L. Johns and his children, Joseph Lake, Mr. Kirkland and his
daughters, William Cox and family, and D. T. Denny and family. All the best
accounts indicate that Indian "Jim" and the squaw saved the lives of many of
the inhabitants ; it was their reports that caused the Decatur to commence the
battle and thus prevent the rush of the hostiles on the cabins of the settlers,
thereby giving the latter time to reach the blockhouse, and at the same time
enabling the troops to return to their stations on the beach and streets.
The smoke from the guns indicated that the front line held by the Indians
at the beginning of the attack extended along where Third Street now is until
Marion Street was passed, when it curved towards the bay. It was a segment
of a circle and every part of the town was for a time within easy rifle range from
this line. All the forenoon the roar of the Decatur's guns continued. The
ground beyond Third Street was torn up by exploding shells. Huge logs and
trees were splintered by solid shot, and every space covered by showers of grape
and canister, but still the Indian warriors held their ground, firing from behind
stumps, logs and trees, which were very thick along the upper edge of the town.
"Above the other noise of the battle," says Bancroft, "the cries of the Indian
wx)men could be heard urging their warriors to greater efforts, but although
they continued to yell and fire with great persistence, the range was too long from
the point to which the Decatur's guns soon drove them to permit of their doing
any execution."' Captain Hewitt's volunteer company took an active part in the
defense of the town and rendered efficient service throughout the day. About
noon the Indians ceased firing for a short time while they feasted on the beef of
the settlers which their women had killed and roasted. During this lull in the
fight most of the women and children in the blockhouse were taken on board the
Decatur and the bark Brontes, which was then lying in port. At the same time
an effort was made to gather from the suddenly deserted houses provisions, guns
HISTORY OF SEATTLI-. G5
and other valuables left in the hasty flight, befwre the Indians under the cover
of night would have an opportunity to rob and burn them. The Indians, per-
ceiving the men rushing into the houses for this purpose, immediately commenced
tiring upon them. Some of the houses within range were pierced by as many as
fifty bullets. All the afternoon a desultory firing continued from both sides.
At times when a bombshell exploded in the midst of the Indians a hideous yell
would be niisctl. but still the savages showed no sign of retreat. Toward evening
scouts sent out by Captain Ganscvoort reported that the assailing Indians were
placing inflammable material under and around the deserted houses, preparatory
to a grand conflagration in the evening, which it was believed was to have been
a signal for all the Indians on the beach and across the Sound to join in the
attack. To prevent the carrying out of this plan Captain Ganscvoort resorted
to a vigorous shelling of the town, which resulted in dispersing the incendiaries
l)efore they had an opportunity to do much damage. At nightfall the firing on
both sides gradually ceased and by lo o'clock it was discontinued altogether.
When the morning of the 27th dawned the hostile force had disappeared, taking
what cattle they could find and plundering every house within the line of their
retreat. That the massacre of every inhabitant of Seattle would have followed
this attack upon the city without the aid received from the Decatur is generally
admitted. The shells from the howitzer caused the greatest consternation among
the Indians. Such implements of destruction were before unknown to them.
They could understand how the solid grape and canister could cut down trees
anil tear up the solid earth, but the guns which fired balls that struck and laid
iiuiet for a time and then, as they expressed it, "niox poohed," or shot off again
with such destructive force, were a mystery and terror.
The Indians did not return to renew the attack on Seattle as Lcschi had pie-
ilicted, but for several months the citizens maintained a close watch upon their
enemies who continued to prowl about in the immediate vicinity for some time
thereafter. Captain Ganscvoort did not leave with the Decatur until all danger
of another attack had passed, remaining in Seattle harbor until the beginning of
the following summer. No further trouble, however, occurred, although the war
in other parts of W'ashington and Oregon was not brought to a close until the
fall of 1856.
Two days after the battle W. N. Bell wrote lo his friend A. A. Denny at
C'lympia as follows:
"Seattle, Jan. j8, 1856.
"Hon. A. .'\. Denny — Dear Sir: — Sebastopol is not taken yet. We had an
engagement with the Indians last Saturday, January 26. It commenced at 8:30
o'clock A. M., and continued until dark incessantly and resulted in the death
(it two Rostons — Milton Ilolgatc and Qiristian White. Fortunately none were
wounded. I have no idea how many Indians were killed, but there were a
iniinl)cr. My house was burned on my claim during the action, but the out-
houses are still slanrling, but your house in town was robbed of flour and ()erhaps
other things on the night of the attack. The Indians, we suppose, are back
near the lake where they must be from i\\i^ hundred to one thousand strong,
and say they will give us two or three months siege. Our company is disbanded
and another has been formed this morning for the protection of Seattle : and
from the best infomiation I can obtain the majority of the Indians on the Sound
66 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
will join them. Shirley is true grit. Please find out and inform me what course
1 must pursue to obtain remuneration for the loss of my house. Only a part
of my cattle came in last night. Should this state of things continue, there
will not be six families left here in the spring. The Decatur is afloat and most
of our women and children on board of her. Yours respectfully,
"W. N, Bell."
January 29, 1856, Governor Stevens wrote: "The people of the whole Sound
region are living in blockhouses or in their immediate vicinity. A band of hostile
Indians numbering according to various estimates from two hundred to five hun^
dred arc on White and Green rivers, determined to prosecute the war. They
attacked Seattle on the 26th inst., keeping up the attack nearly all day, killing
two persons and driving the families on ship-board. The town was defended by
a vessel of war and over one hundred citizens. They have devastated the whole
of King County, driving the whole population within the line of defenses of the
Town of Seattle."
While the people of Seattle were defending themselves against attack, Doctor
JVEaynard and the Indians had nearly completed seven of the eight buildings
contemplated on the reservation. Lumber was obtained at Meig's Mill and the
Indians assisted in the work. Late in December, 1855, attempts to kill Doctor
Maynard were made by hostile Indians, but through the exertions of Chief
Seattle and others the few hostiles were driven from camp. .Ml at the reserva-
tion was quiet until the evening of January 24th, when word came to Chief Seattle
from Teatebash that a large band was on the point of attacking the Town of
Seattle. The chief promptly imparted this information to Doctor Maynard
and asked him to send word to the citizens of the town of their impending danger.
But Doctor Maynard concluded to cross over himself. When Doctor Maynard
and his companions returned to the reservation they found that the Indians he
had left behind, anticipating trouble there in case the savages were successful
at Seattle, had removed his wife to a place of concealment in the woods to the
rear of the camp. On the morning of the 26th the cannonading at Seattle could
be plainly heard and all knew that the attack was in progress. After the repulse
all at the reservation became and continued calm. On April i, 1856, Doctor
Maynard resigned his position, mainly on account of his wife's health. She had
faithfully assisted her husband in all the arduous duties and received the gen-
erous thanks of the Indian superintendent for the exertions she had made. All
the responsibility and nearly all the expense were borne by Doctor Maynard who
in the end was reimbursed for his many outlays.
In a letter dated November i, 1856, Governor Stevens said: "The report of
the late local agent, D. S. Maynard, gives a graphic view of a removal of Indians
from the eastern to the western shore of the Sound, and of the influence of the
exertions of a noble-minded lady to allay discontent in the minds of the Indians.
I take this occasion to express my sense of the courage and devotion of Mrs.
Maynard, and to acknowledge her services in soothing the troubles and distem-
pered minds of the Indians. In simshine and in storm, on the water and on the
shore, in a mat lodge and under a roof, her presence, her words, and her acts
of kindly charity, exerted a potent influence for good."
Immediately after the battle Lieutenant Colonel Lander's company asstnned
i|n!;ii''!i;iiiiiir:-^ m -
X
X
i
HISTORY U1-" SEATTLE 67
Luniniand at Seattle, lie was aulliurized to employ iiulians from Doctor May-
iiard's reservation. He further discharged all the members of his company who
refused to be sworn into the territorial service for six months. All the Indians
at Seattle and on the shore of Elliott Bay were removed to the reservation, this
step receiving the support of II. L. Yesler and H. II. Tobin, special Indian agent
under Doctor Maynard. Commander Swartwout retained for his special service
eight Indians with their families — Old Curley, Curlcy's Charley, Jim, Lockey,
Bob, Cowlitz, Jim's John and one other. Colonel Lander's Company A, as
soon as it was well organized, was dispatched to a post about fourteen miles
up the Duwamish River where it continued to do scouting duty for some time.
11. L. Yesler was active in military circles at this time and was called "Captain"
by the Olympia papers, probably through courtesy. The whole region around
I^ke Washington and along tlie Duwamish was thoroughly scouted by Com-
pany A. Franklin Matthias, of Seattle, was a quartermaster and commissary.
Lieutenant Colonel Lander at the time was chief justice of the territory. Upon
the retirement of Colonel Lander in the spring of 1856 Lieut. A. A. Denny
was placed in command of Company A and the men were enrolled as territorial
militia.
As soon as all danger of another attack upon Seattle was past, every effort
>■< remove all the remaining Indians to the reservation was made. Lieutenant
>enny was ordered on various occasions to assist in carrying this measure into
effect. The records of the adjutant general show that Mr. Yesler was much
relied upon to accomplish this result. He had great influence over the natives,
because many of them had worked at his mill, had been paid and supported by
him. Advantage of this fact was taken and he was asked to accompany the
troops on nearly all their e.xpeditions to round up the savages and remove them
to the west side.
h'inally General Tilton issued orders for Lieutenant Denny to move his com-
pany up to the fort on the Duwamish River, to make that point his headquarters
and to thoroughly scout as far as Fort Hays for straggling Indians. Lieutenant
Denny offered the objection to this order that if he should do so Seattle would
l)e left without adequate protection. General Tilton replied that the objections
were .satis factor)', but the company was ordered to go to Steilacoom by canoes
for the following reasons: Colonel Lander said that forty men could be spared
from Seattle ; small parties were traversing in safety the trail from .Snoquahnic
Falls to Porter's Prairie ; Mr. Yesler reported that but si.x or eight Indians
were still at large east of Seattle. Therefore, General Tilton concluded that
Seattle w'as amply protected by the naval force, a detachtnent of Company A
and the regulars at Fort Tliomas. Mr. Denny answered that it was not the
Indians in Seattle that were to be feared, but the same liand that made the former
attack were so situated that they could in one night's time reach and occupy
their old places on Lake Washington, and would doubtless do so if the troops
were withdrawn. Resides there were here only fifteen marines who were ordered
not to go into the interior, and nearly the whole of the command upon White
River had been withdrawn. Lieutenant Denny further insisted that the com-
pany here had been raised expressly for the protection of this neighborhood and
that this fact was understood at the start between Colonel Lander and the gov-
ernor ami commander-in-chief. Fie said that these were the views by the mass
68 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
of citizens here. But all these objections looked much like disobedience of
orders and accordingly Lieutenant Denny was relieved of the command and
Lieut. D. A. Neely was appointed to succeed him. The members of the
company were indignant and at a meeting passed the following resolutions:
"The undersigned members of Co. A, W'ashington Territory volunteers, by the
following resolutions, express their undivided sentiment with regard to the
matter herein alluded to : Resolvetl, That we individually, and as a company,
do fully endorse and approve of the course jnirsued by Lieutenant Denny, of
Company A, in his recent correspondence with the adjutant general in regard to
certain orders by him issued. Resolved, That we know Lieutenant Denny to be
an able and efficient officer and that we have full confidence in him as a com-
mander. Resolved, That we do not approve of the course of the commander-
in-chief in suspending Lieutenant Denny from his command, but on the contrary,
consider it an act of injustice, and an insult to the company, wholly injustifiable
and uncalled for. Resolved, That, in justice to Lieutenant Denny and to his
company, the commander-in-chief should re-instate Lieutenant Denny in his com-
mand immediately.
(Signed) "Fort Lander, June 28, 1856 — D. H. Neely, second lieutenant; H. A.
Smith, surgeon; John Henning, first sergeant; C. D. Boren. second sergeant;
J. Ross, third sergeant; Jacob \\'ibbins, fourth sergeant; James Fieldin, first
corporal; Walter Graham, second corporal; Jacob Maurer, third corporal; Asa
Fowler, fourth corporal. Privates: Charles Miller. James Broad, Henry Wil-
liams, B. W. Johns, John J. ^Moss, Ira B. Burlingame, James Morrison, John
Haney, C. C. Thompson, A. Hargrave, Robert Hicks, Alonzo Russell, Samuel
Bechtelheimer, Joseph Lake, Peter Lauder\ille, David Stanley, Robert H. Beatty,
Henry Van Asselt, B. L. Johns, W. H. Gilliam, W. W. Ward, William F. Johns,
William H. Brown, E. A. Clark, Lemuel J. Holgate, A. G. Terry, Geo. Bovvker,
W. P. Smith, S. A. Maple."
The passage of these resolutions caused General Tilton to issue an order
that the signers must either repudiate or modify them or be placed in an attiude
of insubordination which would preclude the possibility of their being honorably
discharged froin the sendee. No objection was made to the request for the rein-
statement of Lieutenant Denny, but only to the act of sustaining him in his
refusal to obey orders. When called upon to modify or repudiate the resolu-
tions almost the whole company refused to do so. The result was that the
company was refused an honorable discharge and hence could secure no pay for
their services.
On December 8, 1856, Mr. Denny, then a member of the Territorial Council,
introduced a resolution providing for the fihng of the final muster roll of Com-
pany A, Second Regiment, W'ashington Territory Volunteers, by the adjutant
general. Considerable discussion of the resolution followed and some opposi-
tion developed. However, in the end it was reported on favorably and was
finally passed by both houses as follows :
Council Joint Resolution No. 5. — "Whereas, It has come to the knowledge of
the legislative assembly that James Tilton, sur\'eyor general of the Territory of
Washington, who has during the past year acted as adjutant general of the volun-
teer forces of Washington Territon,^ employed in the recent Indian war, and in
that capacity has refused to receive the final muster roll of Company A of the
I
HISTORY OF SEATTLF. &j
Second Regiment of Washington Territory Volunteers, which company had fully
served out the pcriotl of their cnlistnienl and received honorable discharge from
such service; therefore be it
"Resolved, That the said James Tiltoii be and he is hereby instructed to
icceivc and place on file in the oflkc of the adjutant general of Washington
Territory the final muster roll of said Company A, and that said company be
jilaced in all respects on the same footing as all other companies of the said
Second Regiment, Washington Territory Volunteers.
"Resolved. That copies of this resolution be sent to said James Tiiton and to
tlie governor of Washington Territory."'
In the November (1902) number of the United Service Magazine was
reprinted from its first series a long article prepared by Rear Adminil Thomas
Stowell Phelps, under the caption, "Reminiscences of Seattle, Washington Terri-
tory, and the U. S. Sloop-of-War Decatur during the Indian War of 1855-56."
.\s noted elsewhere, the writer at that time occupied a subordinate position on
the vessel. So far as known he is the only one on the ship who left anything but
a brief official account of local events, and therefore his paper has much histor-
ical value and is here quoted from liberally as follows :
"The population of Seattle in October, 1855, was about fifty souls, and the vil-
lage contained only about fifty houses of all kinds. There were the sawmill, hotel,
boarding house, five or six stores, a blacksmith and carpenter shoj), and little else
besides residences. In a radius of about thirty miles there were outside of the vil-
lage a population of about one hundred and twenty — or about one hundred and
seventy in a circular tract of country about sixty miles in diameter, with Seattle
as the center. At this time T. S. Phelps was the navigator aboard the Decatur.
His account of the battle of Seattle, January 26, 1856, prepared about seventeen
years afterward mainly from his private notes kept at the time and from con-
versation with the citizens later, is set forth substantially in the following pages ;
"Seattle was an intelligent Flathead Indian of medium height and prominent
features, chief of the nation occup)ing the western shore of Admiralty Inlet
contiguous to Port Madison. Covering the rich lands and excellent fishing
grounds of the opposite bay, he waged war incessantly against the Duwamish
tribe, who occupied this land of promise until exhausted in resources and war-
riors the latter succumbed and acknowledged him as master Sucquardle, better
known as Curley, the hereditary chief, accepted the fortunes of war and quietly
submitted to his rule, and both chiefs appeared to live on friendly terms with the
'Bostons,' as the Americans were called, in contradistinction to King George's
man, which included all of English origin.
"The Decatur was ordered to the Straits and Sound from Honolulu in June.
1855, and dropped anchor 'at Duwamish Bay, near Seattle,' on October 4th of
the same year. The leading officers of the vessel at this time were Isaac S.
Stcrrett, captain; Edward Middleton, Andrew J. Drake and .Aaron K. Hughes,
lieutenants, and T. S. Phelps, navigator.
"l.atc in December and eariy in January Captain Hewitt's company, with
Mr. Pcixotto as first lieutenant, occupied points of observation at the head of
Duwamish Bay, while the Sound in the vicinity was patrolled regularly by the
launches of the Decatur. The Active, Captain .Mden, was doing duty at Steila-
coom.
70 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
"The! friendly Indian 'J""' (Yarkekeeman), on January 21st, informed
Captain Gansevoort, who had assumed command of the Decatur Decemher loth,
that a band of Indians irom over tlie Cascades had joined with another band on
the west side of the same range, and ah had been divided into two columns under
Coquilton and Owhi, respectively, to attack Steilacoom and Seattle simultaneously;
that their divided force was so large that they expected to capture both places,
which were to be sacked and burned and all the inhabitants murdered; that when
the hostile chiefs were told of the large c|uantity of powder in the hold of the
Decatur it was concluded to combine both divisions and concentrate the attack
on Seattle and that vessel in order to secure the powder. and the vessel at the
same time. 'Jim' was unable to state the number of Indians in the combined divi-
sions of the hostiles, but said they were hi-hu, meaning very many. Generally
the citizens did not believe Jim's story, but the ofiicers of the Decatur did, at
least in part, and therefore prepared for any eventuality that might endanger
the vessel or the village. The force of marines on the Decatur were divided into
four divisions and a howitzer crew as early as January 8th, and the sloop was
])ut in the best fighting trim. Every night thereafter the four divisions patrolled
the village and guarded the inhabitants while they slept.
"The divisions commanded by their respective officers were distributed along
the line of defense in the following order: The fourth, under Lieutenant
Dallas, commenced at the southeast point and extended along the bay shore to
fhe sandbar, where, meeting with the right of the first division under Lieutenant
Drake, the latter continued the line facing the swamp to a point half way from
the bar to the hotel situated midway between the bar and Yesler's place, and
there joined the second division under Lieutenant Hughes, whose left rested on
the hotel, and completed an unbroken line between the latter and southeast point ;
while the howitzer crew, under Lieutenant Phelps (the admiral), occupied that
portion of the neck lying between the swamp and mound east of Yesler's place,
to secure the approaches leading from the lake ; and the marines, under Sergeant
Carbine, garrisoned the blockhouse. The divisions thus stationed left a gap
betvk'een the second and third, which the width and impassable nature of the
swamp at this place rendered unnecessary to close, thereby enabling a portion
of the town to be encompassed which otherwise would have been exposed. The
distance between the blockhouse and the southeast point, following the sinuosi-
ties of the bay and swamp shores, was three-fourths of a mile, to be defended
by ninety-six men, eighteen marines and five ofiicers, leaving Gunner Stocking
and about twenty others on board to guard the ship. Surgeons Jefifrey and
Taylor, Purser Jones and Sailmaker Warren composed the stafi: of the command-
ing officer and did good service on shore. Of the entire ship's company, num-
bering 145 officers and crew, only one, Hans Carl, an old seaman, was unable to
answer when the muster roll was called.
"Just before the battle of January 26th the company of Captain Hewitt was
disbanded, there being apparently nothing for them to do and the village being
well guarded against any probable attack by the crew of the Decatur. Admiral
Phelps says that the company was disbanded January 22d, and refused to muster
again even when the danger of attack grew more and more imminent, though
about thirty of the former members finally agreed to reorganize and serve if
Lieutenant Peixotto would command them, which he agreed to do, and they were
HISTORY OF SEAT'rr.i; . 71
accordingly mustered in and supplied with arms and equipment and assigned to
the unoccupied space in the line of defense between the second and third divi-
sions. But this force of citizens, not seeing the necessity of such rigid rules and
such extreme precautions, and not feeling under strict obligations to maintain
their posts all night, went home and to bed, leaving the ship's crew to guard the
line." This conduct was naturally criticised sharply by Admiral Phelps, who
mistakenly pictured the citizen soldiers as cowards. Captain Peixotto, a strict
military disciplinarian, was displeased with the conduct of his men, threw up his
command and was assigned to duty in the third division.
"The Active arrived from Steilacoom on January 24th with Governor Stevens
>iid staff, Captain Keycs and Indian Agent Simmons on board. The governor
landed and in an address to all made light of the prospect of an attack from the
Indians. He said there were here ready for fight about one hundred and forty-
live men from tiie Decatur and about seventy-five able-bodied citizens, and
declared he did not believe there were over fifty hostile Indians in the territory.
He .said, 'I believe that the cities of New York and San Francisco will as soon
be attacked by Indians as the Town of Seattle.' Piut all persons who had been
here any great length of time felt that the governor was mistaken and that an
attack might be expected at any moment. The evidence was too strong to be
gainsaid. The movements of the hostiles were known through the espionage
kept on them by friendlies under the direction of the ship's officers and the leading
itizens of Seattle. In less than an hour after the governor left (the afternoon
..[ the 25th) report was received that the enemy under Coquilton was api^roach-
ing via Lake Duwamish. This report and others previously received caused
([uite an exodus of citizens to other points to escape the threatened attack.
"On the afternoon of the 25th Tecumseh (who was named by A. A. Denny
in 1851), chief of the Lake Indians, came to Seattle with his whole tribe and
ilaimed protection from the hostiles who they had learned had planned to kill
thcni for being friendly to the whites. They were assigned to unoccupied ground
in the south jiart of town and instructed to remain in camp and not stray away.
This act of the friendly Indians was deemed ominous to the old citizens, who
felt that such a step would not have been taken had the friendlies not had good
evidence of the near a|)proach of an attack.
"The night of January 25th was dark and nii.sty; at 5 o'clock 1'. M. the divi-
>ions took their usual places to guard the village. About 8 o'clock two Indians
wrapped in blankets sauntered along the line, and when accosted by the guards
as to their names and business replied in Chinook, 'Lake Tillicum, and we have
been to visit Curley.' The guard, believing them to be friendlies, directed them
to pass on and regain their canij)s, whereupon they disai)pcarcd in the darkness
to the southward. It afterwards was shown that these two Indians were Coquil-
ton and Owhi. the commanders of the hostile forces, who had come as s])ies to
the village to learn what preparations for defense had been made. During the
early part of the night owl hoots were heard at several points along the woods in
front of the line, and Curley was sent out to learn the causes, but soon returne<l
with the report that nothing hostile was found. His manner being suspicious,
he was watched and followed ;md was seen to enter the woods again, where he
remained a considerable time. Mr. Yesler's house was headquarters for Captain
Gansevoon and staff.
Tol I- B
72 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
"It became known at a later date that Curley, Tecumseh, Owhi, Coquilton,
Leschi, Yarkekeeman and others assembled in the lodge of Tecumseh in the
woods about midnight January 25th, to decide on a plan of operation. All
whites were to be killed. Curley urged an exception in the case of Mr. Yesler,
a great friend of the natives, but was overruled by the others. The plan was to
commence at 2 o'clock A. M. by throwing the friendlies in between the village
and vessel so as to prevent the escape of any in that direction, and then to
slaughter all by a sudden and desperate assault all along the line. The vessel
could not fire — would not dare to, not knowing where to aim. 'Jim,' the friendly
Indian, so Admiral Phelps relates, opposed this plan of action in order secretly
to help the whites. He counseled waiting until 10 o'clock on the morning of the
26th, after all the crew had gone on board the Decatur and were in bed, and
then to try to lure the others into ambush by showing a few Indians in the woods.
This would call out an investigation from the whites, and when they were well
in the woods they could all be killed by an overwhelming charge from the whole
Indian force. This plan caught the fancy of the savages and was adopted.
"Soon after the departure of the chiefs Coquilton and Owhi, Jim, eluding
the vigilance of Curley, succeeded in gaining the back room of Doctor William-
son's house and scarcely had time to signify his desire for an immediate inter-
view before Curley stalked in from the street and insolently demanded to know
what had become of Jim. The doctor quickly placed his hand on the intruder
and violently thrust him through the door and turned the key ; a few miiuite!-
placed that gentleman in possession of the occurrences in the Indian camp, and
no sooner had its vital import been grasped than he dispatched messengers to
Mr. Yesler, urging him without a moment's delay to notify Captain Gansevoort
of the presence of the Indians and the imminence of an immediate attack, with
which demand that gentleman quickly complied. The moment this information
reached the ship the long roll was sounded, the crew, without breakfast, were
rushed to the deck, and in a few minutes were at their stations on the beach and
in the village.
"About this time Kicumulow (Nancy), Curley 's sister and the mother of
Yarkekeeman, ran past the line, calling out, 'Hiu Kliktat copa Tom Pepper's
house; hiu Kliktat' (a very large number of Klickitats near Tom Pepper's
house). This house was in the woods partly concealed by the trees. Captain
Gansevoort ordered the troops to keep their beats and promised to send them
their breakfasts soon. Many of them were congregated in the loft of Mr. Yes-
ler's building all armed and ready for the fight which was soon expected and
seemed imminent. Here an altercation occurred between the troops and a
number of citizens, but was quelled in short order by the officers. When the
news of the immediate attack on the town was received, Captain Gansevoort
sent word to the Decatur to commence firing by dropping a shell in the vicinity of
Tom Pepper's house. At this stage the howitzer rang loud and clear, coinci-
dent with the heavy boom of big cannon on board the Decatur, which threw a
shell over the heads of the troops into the woods where the enemy seemed congre-
gated. The shot was followed instantly by a heavy fire from the Indian line
and from the troops, accompanied by the yells of the savages. The costumes
of the officers were similar to that of the soldiers, but their positions and initiative
revealed them to the savages who from the commencement of the battle endear-
y.
i
HISTORY OF SEATTL1-: 73
ored lu jjick tlu-iii olT. Lieutenant Peixotto was known from the start and
consequently was sliot at often during the continuance of the fight. Once, while
standing on the blockhouse steps with young Holgate two or three steps above
him, he was fired at by an Indian concealed behind a tree but a short distance
away, but the shot missed its intended mark and pierced the brain of the boy,
who fell dead without a word. To the southward the battle assumed the nature
of a long range duel and neither party could approach the other without incurring
certain death. Here and elsewhere the citizens assisted in the defense, although
they were really not needed. The frequent roaring of the cannon of the Decatur,
the explosion of the shells in the woods, the sharp report of the howitzer, the
incessant rattle of small arms and an uninterrupted whistling of bullets, mingled
with the furious yells of the Indians, pictured a scene long to be remembered.
A young man named Wilson lost his life when an Indian bullet severed his
s|)inal column. At intervals there could be heard above the din of battle the
shrill voices of the Indian women urging the delinquent warriors to the front.
It was reported that a 15-second shell when fired into the midst of a gathering
of the enemy killed when it exploded about ten persons and wounded many
more, though this afterward was denied. How many Indians were killed in this
battle will never be known, nor will the number actually engaged. The number
of deaths were comparatively few owing to the distance which separated the
combatants. The Indians did not dare to show themselves in the open — were
kept back by fear of the cannon shells and round shots. At 1 1 45 the firing
suddenly ceased, but was renewed promptly at noon with greater fury than ever,
doubtless due to the last desperate attempts of the enemy to gain some advantage.
A small squad of men from across the Sound appeared at this juncture and took
part in the battle on the part of the whites; among them were Doctor Taylor.
Mr. Smithers, Thomas Russell and four young men from Meiggs' mill. Many
of the citizens took no part in the fight, because the Indians were easily controlled
by the troops and the vessel. Several howitzers were landed and employed on
the field, and no doubt aided greatly in keeping the Indians from making charges
on the line. About 3 o'clock in the afternoon the firing slowly ceased and finally
died away. Thus at no time was the village in danger so long as the Decatur
was present and in action. The Indians did not dare, in the face of the odds
against them, to close with the line of the whites at any time, but did their best
at a distance."
Admiral Phelps fixes tlie number of Indians engaged at 2,000, but it is now
certain that not over three hundred were actually engaged, and they were at long
range. This fact and the great distance between the lines account for the few
casualties of the battle. The account given by Admiral Phelps shows the animus
entertained by the regulars of the old school toward the volunteers in times
before the Civil war. His account shows on its face the prejudice he felt and
several of his descriptions are ridiculous and unbelievable. Still the account
contains the germ of the truth, the best that will jirobably ever be known.
During the day of the battle about fifty women and children found refuge
on board the Decatur, and nearly half as many more on board the Brontes, then
in the harbor. The adult males, those not in the fighting line, were in the block-
house. The morning of the 27th showed that the Indians had dejjarted, but all
necessary |)recautions were taken to forestall any resumption of the contest.
74 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
The reports of the cannon were heard nearly the whole length of the Sound.
At 4 o'clock the news had reached Bellingham Bay, and at noon on the 27th the
Active, with Governor Stevens on board, steamed into the bay. The governor
acknowledged that he had been mistaken. The report came at this time that the
savages had started for Steilacoom, whereupon the Active promptly left for that
jioint. The Indians had been so confident of victory that they had not supplied
themselves with the necessary provisions, and so were obliged to divide into small
bands and look for subsistence. Coquilton sent back word that he would return
later and yet capture Seattle and butcher the inhabitants. The three leading
points of the battle were the south end. the blockhouse and the sawdust of the
Yeslcr mill.
Immediately succeeding the battle a council of the citizens resolved on a
permanent defense, and Mr. Yesler volunteered a full cargo of sawed lumber
for that purpose. The citizens and the four divisions of troops from the Decatur
assembled and erected barricades, two fences five feet high and eighteen inches
apart and filled witii earth between. This breastwork was quickly built from
the shore beyond Plummer's house to the blockhouse, and thence over the bluff
to the water's edge, the distance barricaded being about twelve hundred yards
and enclosing a large portion of the town. A second blockhouse was also erected
about two hundred feet east of the hotel on the summit of the ridge near the
swamp. An old ship's cannon, battered and rusted and half hidden in the mud,
was unearthed, mounted and placed on duty in the new blockhouse. It vi^as
reinforced by a 6-pounder field piece borrowed from the Active. Officers and
troops and citizens cleared the adjacent fields and front of all stumps and brush,
to be in readiness for a clean sweep in case of a future attack. A large amount
of work was done in a short time. "Soon South Seattle assumed the appearance
of a well laid out town." The large boarding house on the lowest part of the
peninsula was kept by an Irishwoman whom the troops called "Madam Damnable."
By February 15th the blockhouse and the barricades were finished. Lieutenant
Drake with ten men and six marines were detailed to guard the north end of the
town, and Lieutenant Phelps with the same number and Lieutenant Johnson with
ten men from the Active were detailed to guard the south end. All the others
except Doctor Taylor returned to the vessels. On F'ebruary 24th the United
States steamer Massachusetts. Captain Swartwout, arrived. Being senior officer
of the -Sound. Captain Swartwout assumed supreme command. The Active left
when the Massachusetts arrived. Soon after the battle a new company of the
citizens was organized with Col. Edward Lander in command; it became Com-
pany A of the Second Regiment, Washington Territory Volunteers. In March
the United States steamer John Hancock dropped anchor in the harbor, and thus
at one time three fighting ships were here — Decatur, Massachusetts and John
Hancock. It became known later that when Pat Kanim determined to unite
with the whites he stipulated with the territorial authorities for the payment of
$80 to him for the head of every chief killed by his tribe and $20 per capita for
the heads of those of lesser note, the heads to be delivered on board the Decatur
and by that vessel forwarded to Olympia to be counted and recorded. During
the month of February, 1856, several invoices of these ghastly trophies were
received and sent to their destination. A courtmartial at Seattle, ordered by
Governor Stevens, tried some twenty of the Indians who were concerned in the
X
X
'S.
X
HISTORY OF SEATTI.I-: 7r,
attack oil Seattle, but as the evidence showed tliat they were guilty of nothing but
legitimate warfare, they were discharged. On December 2, 1856, the beloved
ship Uecatur left Seattle for the last time, was towed to sea by the John Hancock,
and then sailed for San Francisco.
In September, 1903, Harvey W. Scoti. of the Orcgoniaii, ot Portland, said:
"It is fifty years since I came to I'ugct Sound and it was in the year 1856 that
I first saw Seattle. The city at that time consisted of from twelve to twenty
houses, many of them whitewashed, and they made a very pretty picture with
the dark background of green forest. In 1856. as one of the volunteers in the
liiilian wars of that year, I went with a company of horsemert from Olympia
around through the interior to Sno(|ualmie l""alls, thence down the Souiul near
Ivverett and across to W'hidby Island, where we got some Indians to lake us back
to Olympia in canoes. It was while jiassing KUiott Hay on ilial tri|i tliat 1 first
-aw .Seattle."
l'"ollowing the custom llieii prev;dent among tiie officers of the regular army
and navy, Admiral Phelps docs not speak very kindly about the citizen soldiers
of Seattle. The officers often re])roaclicd the \oluntcer soldiers of Oregon and
Washington witii cowardice because they would not stand up in the o])en to be
shot at by Indians concealed by trees, logs, etc., at the same time the volunteers
Iiad as much contempt for the ignorance of the regulars regarding Indian lighting
as the latter hatl for tliem for their supposed lack of courage. .As a matter of
fact, the men who had the hardihood to come here in those days, often bringing
their families with them, could not be cowards. I'luir bravcn,' and devotion
to duty were manifested every day of their lives.
The effect of the Indian war upon the entire Territory of Washington was
most disastrous, and especially so in the thinly settled region of the Puget Sound
country. It not only retarded settlement, but those already made were in many
instances deserted, and for years thereafter was almost entirely checked. Dis-
louragemcnt and almost despair took [Kjssession of all, and many of the timid
.Mid irresolute renio\ed to the more populous regions of Oregon and Californi.i.
Seattle, in common with the other settlements on the Sound, for years after felt
the eflfects of the disaster which had fallen on the country. "The winter after
the war closed," says Mr. Denny, ''was a period of ])iiichiiig want and great
privation such as was never experienced here except in iho winter of 1852-33.
Those who remained until the war closed were so discouraged and so much in
dread of another outbreak that they were unwilling to i-elurn to their homes in the
I ountry and undertake the task of rebuilding thcni. and in consequence it was
years before we recovered our lost ground to any extent." Business was gener-
ally stagnant. Little in the way of building or im])rovcmcnt was attempted.
Roads that had been opened before the war had become mostly well-nigh impassa-
ble, and some of them entirely so, and active efforts were not resumed to improve
the roads and open communication with the country cast of the mountains until
t865, a period of ten years.
Nearly every farmer in the country bail been practically bankrui)ted by the
war. Ciovernor Stevens published notices in regard to "claims for damages by
Indians," and it was generally supposed that Congress would at once pay for the
damages caused by reservation Indians, who were wards of the (jovernment.
fhc first paragraph of the notice was: "It must be shown clearly that the
76 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
property has been taken by force, or that it has been mahciously destroyed, and
that the person to whom it belonged was lawfully in the Indian country." A
later paragraph contained the warning that any attempt to obtain private satis-
faction in revenge against the Indians supposed to have committed the injuries
would be good cause for the rejection of his claim. These Indian war claims
have been a matter of interest and contention from that time down to almost the
present. Every few years the claimants would be called upon for additional
particulars and more binding affidavits. Whenever some particular pet of the
department having them in charge wanted a nice outing he would be sent out
here to take additional testimony in regard to Indian war claims. This began
in Buchanan's term, but Lincoln's term was too much occupied with more serious
affairs to waste time in such foolishness, but soon afterward visits of the officers
began again. Democrat or republican, it made no difference; each man had a
good salary and all expenses paid and each man got more affidavits, and each
time the claimants felt renewed hopes that they would now get their dues. This
went on for forty years, and no claims were paid, but finally, after nearly every
one of the claimants had died of old age, the attorney general settled the matter
by deciding that the country was in a state of war at that time and therefore the
Government could not be held responsible for these claims. Dickens' "circum-
locution office" would have found in these claims fine material for official action
and correspondence.
October 30, 1856, Adjutant General James Tilton issued general orders dis-
banding the volunteers of Washington Territory. "The most cordial thanks of
the commander-in-chief are given for the signal gallantry, resolute endurance
and excellent discipline they have displayed and maintained during their six
months' arduous, faithful and efficient service. The people of Washington Ter-
ritory will know how to honor for all time the devoted and fearless men who
have maintained the foothold of civilization upon the remote frontier.
"History will present the fact with credit and honor to the volunteer force
that during the six months of active service of 1,000 of the citizens of Wash-
ington Territory not a single friendly Indian has been harmed in a volimteer
camp or scout, no Indian has been plundered or molested, and the captured prop-
erty of defeated savages has been in many cases turned over to the proper officers
and faithfully accounted for by them.
"Devotion to the serv'ice, aided by the patriotism and generosity of the citizens,
has enabled a widely scattered community of 1,700 American citizens to keep
on foot, feed, clothe, arm and properly mount 1,000 most efficient and serviceable
troops.
"With these facts for the future historian, the year 1856, although disastrous
in material prosperity, is rich in honorable achievements and will be dwelt upon
by the descendants of the troops now returning to their avocations of peace
with pride and exultation."
These were the eloquent words of a brave and talented soldier and citizen,
and deserved to have been prophetic, but it is doubtful if one in a hundred of the
descendants of these volunteers ever read or heard of them.
CHAPTER IV
THE JXDIAN TRIHES AND CHIEF SEATTLE
It is customary for authorities to classify Indians according to the language
thc-y speak. According to this classification the Indians of Pugct Sound, with
one tribe excepted, belong to the Salishan family, which inhabited, besides the
>ound region, portions of British Columbia, all the northern part of Wash-
ington, Northern Idaho and Western Montana, and a small strip of Western
Oregon. In 1909 the total number of Salishan Indians was 18,630 then, of course,
on reservations. This work is chiefly concerned with a group of Salishan, the
Xisqually group, in which the ties of kinship were verj- close among the various
tribes and bands comprising it. This Nisqually group embraced all tribes east of
Puget Sound and south as far as Mount Rainier, and on the west side, the
region up to Olympia except Hood Canal. There were two dialectic divisions,
the Nisqually proper and the Snohomish. The best known of the tribes were
the Nisqually, Duwamish, Puyallup, Skagit, Snoqualmu or Snoquamish, and
Squa.xon.
In dealing with Indian classifications it must be borne in mind that the names
most familiar to the settlers were not always the names of the larger tribes,
init merely bands, which were confused as tribes. The names of the most
familiar tribes and bands in the vicinity of Seattle are as follows :
The Duwamish, whose chief location was at the outlet of Lake Washington.
Lake Washington was known for a long time as Duwamish Lake until christened
Lake Washington. The Duwamish River takes its name from this tribe. Their
population about 1856 was given from sixty-four to three hundred and twelve.
The word Duwamish has been misapplied to include many distinct tribes in
the vicinity. In 1856 they were removed to the east shore of Bainbridge Island,
but owing to the absence of a fishing ground were shortly after taken to the
west side of Elliott Bay. The remnant is now resident at the Tulalip Reserva-
tion.
The Shilshole, which inhabiated the region about Salmon Bay and Shilshole
Hay. and who early disappeared from the country. They were evidently only a
small band and moved elsewhere. They did, however, leave their name as a
landmark on the bay. Most of our knowledge of them comes from the late
Dr. H. A. Smith, of Smith's Cove, who settled there in 1853. When he arrived
they consisted of a dozen families of some five or six hundred souls, all told,
but claimed to have at one time been able to muster several thousands. Their
reduction had been brought about by the constant excursions of the northern
Indians who killed many, took others away as slaves, and drove still others away
rom their original habitat into the interior where they lost their tribal identity
in the surrounding tribes.
The Samamish. whose name according to Gibbs, was a corruption of the
77
78 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
Skagit word "hunter," inhabited the region about the lake of the same nan-e.
This lake was first known to the settlers as Squak Lake and the Indians as llie
Squak Indians. In 1854 they numbered loi all told, and were probably a band
of the Duwamish. They followed the fortunes of that tribe and were consid-
ered as Duwamish in the removals.
Closely allied to the Duwamish if not really a part was the Suquamish tribe
which claimed the land on the west side of Puget Sound from Appletree Cove to
Gig Harbor. Their population in 1857 was 441. A band of these, the Shomamish,
occupied Vashon Island.
The chief of these closely allied tribes was Seattle (or Sealth) after whom
the city was named. He was born at the Old Man House on the Port Madison
Reservation about the year 1790, the son of a Suquamish father named Schweabe
and a Duwamish princess Scholitza. He is described as large in size, dignified
in appearance, generous, kind, and unasstmiing, yet cotirageous and fearless in
the face of danger. It is said that he acquired his high position among the vari-
ous tribes and bands by a clever display of diplomacy. When he was in the
prime of his manhood intelligence was brought to his people that the Indians in
the White and Black river regions were planning an excursion against the
Old Man House tribes. A meeting was quickly called and the sentiments of the
warriors heard. Finally Seattle presented his plan and it was accepted. He was
to take with him a large number of warriors who were to ambush themselves at
a bend in the Black River and wait for the canoes of the enemy as they came
down. This he did. To fttrther facilitate his plan a large tree was cut down
and placed across the river just beyond the bend so as not to be visible to the
oncoming canoes. Then his warriors waited. Presently several large canoes of
the enemy came down with the current, unaware of the danger. They swiftly
made the bend and came suddenly on the log which was to obstruct their passage.
As was expected, the canoes plunged into the log and the occupants were cast
into the stream and there quickly set upon by Seattle's warriors and slain. Their
companions further up stream heard their cries and made for the shore where
they hastily debarked and spread the woeful intelligence of the disaster to their
people, with the result that the premeditated attack was abandoned. Seattle was
quickly proclaimed chief of his peoples. He then prepared to make his authority
known and respected among the tribes which sought to attack his peoples, and by
other displays of diplomacy backed by show of force soon overshadowed all the
chiefs in that region and became their recognized leader.
When the first settlers came to the Sound Seattle let it be known that he was
their friend and there are none of the early pioneers but who attest to his friend-
ship for the whites. Soon after the city was founded it became necessary to find
a name and Seattle was chosen in honor of the friendly chief. It has been claimed
he was not so well pleased with this honor. This was probably due to Indian
superstition, the local Indian belief being that the mention of a dead man's name
disturbs his spirit.
Though a man of great natural abilities. Chief Sealth never learned either
the Chinook or the English languages; nor did any of the older Indians. An
interpreter was always necessary whenever any of the whites wished to converse
with him. In appearance, he was dignified, but somewhat bent with age,
in the early '60s, and at that time he always walked with a staflf in his hand. He
1^
^^H
aH
(
p^l
Wa
^^^^
L|giB
1
CHIEF SEATTLE
(Sealth)
j
HISTORY OF SEATTI-l", 7!)
luokcd like a superior man among his people. Though ihe lop of his head had
l)ecn flattened in childhood, the malformation was not so a])parent as it was in all
tiic other old Indians of his ilay. Usually he wore but a single garment. That
was a Hudson's Bay Company's blanket, the folds of which he held together with
one hand, and from their midst apjierircd llii- hroad chest and strong arm of
bronze which grasped his stall.
When the treaty with the Indians was made at Point Elliott or Muckilteo in
1S55, which is treated at another place in this book, Seattle was the first signer;
and during the Indian war which was to follow because of ilissatisfaction regard-
ing the intentions of the whites, Seattle maintained a friendly altitude, having
faith in the whites to do right by the Indians.
Tiirough the eOorts of the French missionaries lie became a Catholic and
inaugurated regular morning and evening prayers in his tribe, which were con-
tinued by his jK'ople after his death. He died June 7, )S66, at the Old Man House
from a fever or ague, but he was very old. His funeral was attended by hun-
dreds of the whiles from all parts of the Sound, and G. A. Meigs, of the Port
Madison mill, closed down the establishment in his honor. He was buried accord-
mg to the rites of the Catholic Church with Indian customs added. An account
of his last days and death was recorded in the Seattle Post-Intelligencer for
January i, 1SS4, as follows:
"In 1866 Seattle's ( Seallh's I health began to fail. Month after nionlli lie
grew weaker and weaker till at last he became helpless, but his mind was clear,
and he fully realized his condition. Just lieforc he lireathed his last the native
priest and principal men of the trilie gathered about him and he was told that he
was dying. 'It's well,' said he, 'my heart is good. 1 have only one thing to ask
.iiid that is for my good friend — always my friend — to come to my funeral and
•-hake hands with me before I am laid in the ground.' These were the venerable
old man's last words ; he closed his eyes and his spirit deixirled. The event cast
a gloom over the whole village. I'-very member of his tribes seemed to be deeply
afflicted. IJul there was none of the vociferous howling and liunulrum of the
medicine man so common among all tlu- trilies of the coast on such occasions. A.
messenger was dispatched to Port Madison to announce the death of Seattle, the
day the funeral ceremony would take jilace, and his last request. .At the appointed
time Mr. Meigs embarked on board his steamer Old Man House to pay the last
mark of his respect to his deceased friend.
"A stalwart native priest arose, and conducted the funeral services of the
fvoman Catholic Church with touching solemnity. Then one of the sub-chiefs
^tood forth, who repeated in measured Indian cadence used when discoursing
(111 great events the name of 'Seattle — Seattle.' The speaker continued: 'The
spirit of our great chief has gone, gone to the good land a great way off. His
heart was always good, was like the sun, not like the moon, for that is changing.
Seattle was a great chief, he knew better what was good for us than we knew
ourselves. But why do I sjieak? For his son is here, he knows best about our
good chief, he is his own flesh and blood, let him talk.'
"The young man then stood up and calmly said : 'My father's remains lie
before us; they are going to yonder hill to be buried deep in the earth. Ages ago
this mode of burial would have appalled us, for the dead bodies of our ancestors
were elevated on trees, or laid in canoes above the ground. But the priest came
80 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
among us and taught us the prayer. We are Christians now. Before he came
the Seattles were the first in chase and the first to draw the bow and the knife
in time of war; but the Godly man taught us to build. good houses; how to
cultivate the soil; and how to get money, like white men. He has told us, too,
that when the Son of God was buried in the earth a great stone was rolled over
his grave; but when God called him to heaven, the stone rolled back, and His
Son came forth. We know that my father was the last great chief of the
Seattles, They were his friends, so were the Indians of other tribes — because
he was just to all. In the last strife with the whites, my father was threatened
because he would not fight ; but he feared no one but God. Some of the Indians
made threats. The chief of the Seattles told them that when there was cause for
.sliedding blood they would find him on the warpath night and day. We are all
glad that those troubles and times have passed. We are all glad that the great
chief's hands were never stained with a white man's blood. He is now dead, but
his name will live in the memory of all good Indians, as a wise, brave and
Christian chief.' The young man then drew from his breast the photograph of
Seattle and exclaimed: 'The white man will not forget him, for here is his
picture, made by the lights of the heavens, the older it grows, the more it will be
prized. When the Seattles are no more, their chief will be remembered and
revered by the generations to come.' The harangues being ended, a breath of
excitement passed through the congregation as Mr. Meigs stepped forward and
shook the hands of the old chief in compliance with his dying prayer. Imme-
diately afterwards the procession was formed, and the remains, followed by
400 mourners, were borne to the cemetery, where Seattle was laid in his sepulchre,
beside the woodland that was once his hunting ground; and in sight of the waters
■of Admiralty Inlet, where his canoes once danced on the waves."
The memory of Chief Seattle always remained tender in the minds of the
citizens of Seattle and about 1890 some of the public spirited citizens led by
Arthur A. Denny, Hillory Butler, and Samuel L. Crawford erected a monument
to his honor which they placed over his grave with the following inscription :
SEATTLE
Chief of the Suquamps and Allied Tribes,
Died, June 7, 1866.
The Firm Friend of the Whites, and for Him the
City of Seattle Was Named by
Its Founders.
(On the reverse side:)
Baptismal name, Noah Sealth,
Age probably 80 years.
The most interesting landmark left by the Indians in these parts was the old
potlatch house at Port Madison which was the residence of Chief Seattle and his
sub-chiefs. It was an enormous structure as shown by its ruins, and this has
led many investigators to speculate as to its origin and purpose. It is a well-
known fact that almost all the tribes and bands in this region built large struc-
tures called potlatch houses where the great ceremonies of gift-giving were held ;
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 81
i)iit none is so large as this one at Port Madison. Some persons have advanced
the theory that it was built as a fortress to ward off the attacks of the Northern
Indians; others contend that it could not have been built by Indian labor as
the Indians had no machinery or tools sufricieiit in size to prepare the large limbers
used, and it must have been built by white laborers, probably by some unfortunate
ship carpenters obtained from a derelict. Its origin will probably remain a mys-
tery for all time.
In 1903 a student of the University of Washington, Frank Carlson, A. M.,
made extensive investigations of the old house, extracts of which are here
quoted :
"The history of the Old-Man-Housc, or as the Indians called it, Tsu-Cub, pos-
sesses peculiar interest, which distinguishes it from almost all other Indian archi-
tecture in the New World. If it were possible to unravel fully the history of
the people who built and frequented this house, we would undoubtedly have a
liistory as full of romance as the story of Troy, so beautifully described by
Homer.
"This magnificent house was situated at Port Madison Reservation on the
l)cach of the northwest side of the Agate Passage, just where the water separates
from Admiralty Inlet to form Bainbridge Island — it is about twenty-five kilo-
meters northwest of Seattle. It was an ideal location for an Indian village,
only a short distance of about one thousand feet across Agate Passage to Bain-
bridge Island on the south ; on the north and west was land and on the east the
mighty arm of the Pacific. Besides they could take advantage of the incoming
tide and float southward to any destination with rapidity and return with the out-
going tide.
"The ground-plan of this house is still traceable, although there is only one
post standing; all the others have rotted off where they entered the surface of the
ground, and then been washed away by the tide or burned by the Indians ; but
that part which remained in the ground is in perfect preservation, and shows
plainly the location of the house.
"In front, the outline of the house measures about nine hundred feet, in the
rear a little less, as the house curved somewhat to correspond with the beach.
In width, it measures about sixty feet, with the exception of a short distance at
ich end of the house, where it measures only fifty feet. At the north end, the
rear end of a few of the rafters rested upon the bank. In height, it w-as twelve
feet in front and between eight and nine in the rear.
"It covered an area of about an acre and a quarter, containing about forty
apartments, each entirely separated from the other by a partition of boards or
planks split from cedar, held together by sticks fastened at the top with withes.
"The total number of posts is given by Gibbs to have been seventy-four, which
is about the correct number for the corner posts. The size of the posts differ;
in front they were about fifteen feet long, two or four feet wide and ten to
twelve inches thick; in the rear they were twelve feet long with the same width
and thickness as those in front. All the posts were notched at the top and placed
in iiosition with the liark side facing the interior of the house and tamped solidly
until they could support the great weight that rested upon them.
"The rafters consisted of round cedar logs, hewed off at the upper side so
as to make it level for the roof. They were about sixty-five feet long with a
82 HISTORY OF SEATTL1-:
diameter of twenty-four or more inches in the large end and about twelve in llie
small end. These rafters had also a post in the middle to support them.
"The roof was covered with cedar boards (shakes), which were laid on planks
that rested on the rafters.
''The outside walls of the building, like the roof, consisted of split cedar
planks which were put up similar to the partitions.
"In each apartment was one or more fireplaces, which were generally made
of sttDne and raised a little from the ground. There was an opening in the roof
through which the smoke escaped. This opening could be closed wdien desired.
"Each apartment contained several rooms separated from each other by
mattings suspended from the ceiling, and in several of these rooms were raised
bunks constructed around the walls for beds, on which were used as bedding,
mats. On each end of the apartment was a door which hung on wooden hinges.
"The chief apartment, occupied by Sealth, was built very strong; the wall in
front consisted of very heavy posts with several openings, and a contrivance to
place in front of the door' in case of an attack by unfriendly tribes. In a like
manner Kitsap's apartment was fortified.
"Furthermore, on every corner post in front of the chief's and sub-chief's
apartments, was carved the figure of the big 'Thunderbird' in the proportions
in which it had fixed itself in the minds of that particular tribe; and also a
grotesque figure of a man, about half size, naked, and with bow and arrow.
This latter figure was supposed to represent the ancestor of the tribe. There
were also smaller carvings on the other front posts.
"This massive house of the Indians of Puget Sound was over thirty times as
large as the houses built by the mighty nation of the Iroquois, which were, accord-
ing to Morgan's description, from fifty to one hundred feet long, and about seven-
teen feet wide.
"As to the time when this house was built, there are various conjectures;
some claim that it was constructed about the middle of the eighteenth century by
one of the tribes of the Dwamish Confederacy ; others think that it was built in the
beginning of the nineteenth century. The latter opinion is undoubtedly correct
as Vancouver does not make any mention of the house. But the best evidence,
perhaps, that can be adduced is the great mass of crushed, broken and roasted
clam shells that are found to a considerable depth over every portion of the
beach, even as far out as deep water.
"An Indian whose name was Sub-Qualth has given the following informa-
tion : Tn the Tsu-Cub lived eight great chiefs and their people. Space in the
big hou.se was allotted each chief and his people and this was religiously con-
secrated to them and never encroached upon by others. To old Chief Sealth was
given the position of honor ; Chief Kitsap next, Sealth's aged father ranked
third, and Tsu-Lu-Cub came fourth. These four Sub-Qualth remembered as they
represented one-half of the Tsu-Cub. The next four Sub-Qualth did not remem-
ber, but his father, who was a cousin of Chief Sealth, had told him their names.
"That the Old-Man-House was originally built for a Potlatch House there is
no doubt, but it was also used as a residence for part of the year. It was chiefly
used for that when the whites came.
"Directly across from the Old-Man-House is located at Point Agate, perhaps,
*:he only permanent record of these tribes. Upon the flat surface of the rock is
HISTORY OF SEATTI.I-: 83
engraved characters of different descriptions whose meaning neither the wliites
nor the Indians have been able to interpret. This engraving is said to have been
done by the Taniahnous Alan."
With the coming of the pioneer, the Indian distinctions of caste disappeared,
and all Indians — chiefs, princes ur plain siwash — became just Indians. Of
Seattle's descendants considerable is known. He had at least two recognized
wives, and perhaps many slave concubines, after the Indian custom. By each
wife he had children, the best known of whom was i\ngcline, so called by the
whites, but whose Indian names were Wee-wy-cke and Kick-is-om-lo. If she
were a princess, she never knew it or cared for its honors, for after the whites
came she took advantage of the economic situation to earn a little chickamin in
the role of washerwoman, and for many years was known to the pioneer fam-
ilies in that capacity. She is said to have been l)orn about 1830 arid was thus in
the prime of life when the city was founded. I Icr husband was Dokub Cud, half-
Skagit and half-Cowichan, and by him she had two daughters, Mary and Lizzie.
The latter married a half breed, Joe Foster, who was a good-for-nothing, whose
ill treatment caused her to commit suicide by hanging just after giving birth
to a male child, Joe Foster, Jr., who remained the constant friend of his grand-
mother until the time of her death which occurred May 31, 1896. Mary married
William DeShaw, a white man, who, in spite of his Indian wife, was a man of
influence in his day, and was well liked in Kitsap and King counties. For a great
many years his store at Point Agate did a large business. lie was among the
first on the Sound to make a specialty of curing herring and salmon by smoking
;ind putting them up in attractive form so they found ready sale. At one time
lie was in possession of a goodly fortune acquired through his numerous activities.
Their children were Ian Mary, who married C. J. Thompson, long resident of
''"Ft Madison; Lulu, Gladys, Ina, Chester, Charles and lUanchc. Lulu was niar-
(I to J. Sikcman, and their children were Lea and Will .Mien.
By Seattle's second wife there were two sons who married early and died
many years ago ; also Moses, who was still living at last accounts.
When Angeline was a very small child her parents christened her Kick-is-
om-Io Sealth, and she managed to worry along with this name until she was about
'vcnty years of age, when she got married to an Indian with the cui)hnnious
Lrnomen of Dokub Cud, when she, of course, became Mrs. Dokub Cud. Three
ildren were born to her while she bore the name of Cud. Onb of them died
I ry young, one married a clerk in Plummer's store, and the other married
luster, the father of Joe. Early in the '50s Mrs. Maynard came to Seattle,
and meeting the da.s'hing widow Cud, asked her name. The daughter of Seattle
replied, in the best Chinook at her command, that her friends and acquaintances
all knew her as Kick-is-om-lo Cud, widow of the late Dokub Cu<l. Mrs. May-
nard laughed and replied : "You are too good looking a woman to carry around
such a name as that, and I now christen you Angeline.'' Mrs. Cufl took kindly to
the change, and from that time to the day of her death she was known by all as
.Angeline. Mr. W. W. White, in speaking of her at the time of her <Ieath, said:
"I came to Seattle in 185S and have known .\ngeline ever since that time, and
she is the only Indian woman I have ever known whose morals were above
reproach. 1 have never heard a breath of scandal against her." The writer
confirms this statement emphatically.
84 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
Verbal intercourse between tbe white and the Indians- was kept up by means of
that strange volapuk known as the Chinook Jargon. The jargon is not a language
in the full sense of that term but it does illustrate how few words are really neces-
sary to express the simple needs of daily life. It was first brought to public notice
about 1810, when it began to develop with the advent of the fur companies on the
coast. It was not an invention but a growth. The basis of the jargon was about
two hundred words of the Chinook Indian language which the traders were
forced to learn and use in order to make their wants and desires known to the
Indians. The reason for the predominance of the Chinook vocabulary was the
fact that most of the early trade in these parts was with those Indians. These
words spread to other tribes who wanted to trade. Gradually, however, other
words crept into the jargon — Nootka, English, French, etc., for the trader brought
many articles which had no Chinook name, and the Indians seldom invented a
new name for a new article ; they preferred to take the white man's name. The
officers and leaders of the Hudson's Bay Company, as well as the American trad-
ers and early settlers, spoke the English language, and this fact accounts for
the English additions to the jargon. The ser\ants of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, on the other hand, were chiefly French-Canadians, as were the first Cath-
olic priests, and through them many French words came into use. Very few of
the English or French words were preserved in their original purity because the
Indian could not pronounce them perfectly. Thus an Indian cannot pronounce a
word beginning with "r;" his best attempt is an "1" so that words like rum and
rice are pronounced lum and lice. The whites made no attempt to correct the
Indian or to improve him in this regard ; sufficient for their purpose was the
Indian rendering, and they adopted the mispronounced word. The Chinook
Jargon is still used further north by the traders and employed somewhat by the
Indian tribes themselves who speak dift'erent langtiages. Occasionally an old
pioneer can be induced to deliver a few sentences in the jargon at a historical
meeting.
To the schoolboy or girl, who is obliged to wrangle with the Latin or the
Greek, the Chinook Jargon would be welcomed as a capital substitute, for it
has no conjugations, no inflections, and no highly involved sentences.
When the pioneers came they found the Indians to be quite fluent with the
jargon and they, themselves, had to learn it because they had many relationships
with them. It must not be conceived that the Indians whom the pioneer encoun-
tered were savage or wholly uncivilized. \'ancouver had met the Indians of the
Sound in 1792 and from that time until the '50s the whites were in constant con-
tact with them. About 1809 the Xorthwest Company began to descend from
Upper Canada into the Columbia River region for the purpose of trade. Fort
Astoria was erected by John Jacob Astor in 181 1, Fort Vancouver in 1824, Fort
Langley in 1827, and Fort Nisqually in 1833. Later a post was maintained at
Victoria, B. C. All this is to show that by the '50s there was not an Indian
tribe in this region but what had come into contact with the whites.
This contact acted as a ci\ilizing agency. To Fort Nisqually the Indians
brought their furs and exchanged them for blankets, capots, cloth, guns and
sundry articles. In the course of a few years the Indians abandoned their
tribal modes of dress, became wholly dependent upon the company for many
articles. When the pioneers came the Indians were glad because they could not,
ANGELINE, DAUGHTER OF CHIEF SEATTLE
HISTORY OF Sr.ATTLE 85
get along without the aid of the white man's articles. The pioneer had nothing
to trade but he was ofttimes obliged to buy fish and dams from the Indians, also
to hire them as laborers. When Yesler started his sawmill he employed Indians
to help about the mill carrying away slabs and piling boards. As messengers or
canocmen the Indians were used. The housewives hired the women to do the
washings. Later, before the advent of oriental labor, the Indians were used in
the hopfields. When Dexter Horton opened his store it was not more for the
purpose of securing the trade of the settlers, than of the Indians, who picked up
considerable money from the whites, and who wanted to buy clothing, bread and
other articles which they could not produce themselves, Inil which they could
not do without.
The principal reason why it was necessary to make treaties with the Indians
and to secure their lands was the great fact that the incoming settler coveted
liiem and was always in great danger if he staked his claim and erected his cabin
before the Indians had rcccivetl compensation. Legally, the settler had a perfect
right to enter upon any land in Oregon (which included Washington at this
time) in the face of apparent Indian ownership, for Congress in 1R50 had passed
the Oregon Donation Land Law which granted to each settler 320 acres of land.
The wife, likewise, was allowed a grant of 320 acres. In 1853 and 1854 the
amount of the grant was reduced but the princi])lc of donation still held goofl.
The settlers were coming into Oregon and Washington in great numbers each
year.
The Indian had little use for the land, itself, and he was always glad to have
a limited number of whites around him to furnish him white man's goods, white
man's religion and white man's medicine, but as the number of settlers increased
inevitable friction resulted, and in each case of friction the Indian u.sually
received the worst of the affair.
One of the first responsibilities which dc\ol\ed uix)n Governor Isaac Ingalls
.Stevens was to secure to the Government title to tlie Indian land. One of his
first acts was to secure the appointment of Indian agents who were to impress upon
the Indians the necessity for an early and permanent adjustment of this ques-
tion. CJovernor Stevens was exce[)tionally well (|ualified for this work and his
judgment was equally reliable for he had in his work on the Pacific railway sur-
veys come into very close contact with the Indians. No person in all the West
was better qualified for this task than he.
Mis policy was to concentrate all the Indians of the Northwest on a few
reservations where they would cease their wars, relinquish their use of liquor,
give up their old customs, etc. — in short, become civilized. The lands ceded to
the Government were to be paid for, not in money which would soon be wasted
or fall into tiie hands of certain exploiters, but in annuities of blankets, cloth-
ing and useful articles during a long term of years. Teachers, doctors, and other
l>rofessional helpers were to lie furnished by the Government at its expense.
The Legislature was in .session in 1854 and the governor, after delivering his
message, took rajjid action to perfect his plans and build up his organization for
the ])urpo.ses of making treaties with the various grou|)s on both sides of the
Cascade Mountains. On December 7, 1854, he organized his force of assistants
consisting of James Doty, secretary ; George Gibbs, surveyor ; 1 1. A. Goldsborough,
coniniis.sary. and P.. F. .Shaw, interpreter. Cot. M. T. Sinnnoiis had alrcadv
s
86 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
licLii appointed Indian agent. The governor and his assistants consulted together
and discussed some of the treaties which had been made with Indian tribes to
the eastward, notably those with the Missouri and Omaha tribes, and after much
debate selected those principles and features thought most worthy of adoption.
By December loth a tentative plan of procedure was drawn up. The schooner
R. B. Potter, Capt. E. S. Fowler, was chartered at $700 per month, to take the
party and treaty goods from point to point along the Sound.
It is not the purpose of this history to go into an extended account of the
various treaties ; this has been admirably done by Gen. Hazard Stevens, son of
the governor. The first council was held on She-nah-nam, or Medicine Creek,
now ofificially known as McAlister Creek, not far from the Nisqually River, on
December 24-26, 1854.
The second council was held at Point lilliott or Muckilleo, a little wav
outh of the present City of Everett, on January 21-23, 1855. The Indians to
the number of 2,300 had been gathering for over a week prior, and when they
had assembled in sufficient numbers the governor arrived on the Major Tomp-
kins, accompanied by Secretary of State Mason and a friend. Dr. C. M. Hitch-
cock, of San Francisco, a visitor to the territory. The governor had taken into
consideration in making these treaties the fact that certain of the tribes of the
.Sound were more closely related in speech and custom than others, and those
tribes invited to assemble at Point Elliott consisted of all the Indians on both
sides of Puget Sound from Commencement Bay to the forty-ninth parallel of
north latitude. There were many tribes and bands (some having unpronounce-
able names), chief of which were the Duwamish and Suquamish presided over
by Seattle; the Snohomish led by Pat-ka-nim; the Skagits of which Goliah was
chief ; and the tribes further north under the leadership of Chow-its-hoot.
The chiefs took their places around the governor's party; back of them sat
the sub-chiefs; back of these congregated the other Indians of the various tribes.
With the exception of the governor the most imjiortant man was Col. Benjamin
I'ranklin Shaw, interpreter, who was perhaps the best posted man of his day in
the Chinook Jargon, the only medium of speech by which the governor could
make his thoughts known to the various tribes assembled. The governor would
speak a few words in English and Colonel Shaw would then render them into
the jargon. When all was ready on the 22d the governor arose and addressed
the Indians as follows:
"My children, you are not my children because you are the fruit of my loins,
but because you are children for whom I have the same feeling as if you were
the fruit of my loins. You are my children for whom I will strenuously labor
all the days of my life until I shall be taken hence. What will a man do for
his own children? He will see that they are well cared for; that they have
clothes to protect them against the cold and rain ; that they have food to guard
them against hunger : and as for thirst, you have your own glorious streams in
which to quench it. I want you as my children to be fed and clothed, and made
comfortable and happy. I find that many of you are Christians, and I saw
among you yesterday the sign of the cross, which I think the most holy of all
signs. I address you therefore mainly as Christians, who know that this life is
a preparation for the life to come.
"You understand well my purpose, and you want now to know the special
IIISTURV OF SEATTLE • 87
tliins,'s we projjo.se to do for you. We want to ])lace you in homes where you can
cuhi\ate the soil, raising potatoes and other articles of food, and where you
may he able to pass in canoes oxer liie waters of the Sound and catch fish, and
back to the mountains to get roots and berries. The Great Father desires this,
and why am I able to say this? Here are 2,000 men, women and children, who
have always treated white men well. Did 1 not come through your country one
year since? Were not many of you now present witnesses of the fact? | .\t this
point all the Indians said that the governor came.] Did I then make promises to
you? |.\i this ]Kiint ilic Indians said he did not.| 1 am glad to hear this, because
1 came through your country, not to make promises, hut to know what you were,
to know what you wanted, to know your grievances, and to report to the Great
l-'ather about you. 1 have been to the Great Father and told him your condi-
tion. Here on this Sound you make journeys of three and four days. ])ut 1
made a journey of fifty days on your behalf. I told the Great Father I had
traveled six moons in reaching this country, and had never foumi an Indian
who would not give me food, raiment, and animals to forward me and mine to
the great country of the West. I told him that I was among 10,000 Tndians, and
ihey took me to tiicir lodges and offered me all they had, and here I will pause
and ask you again if you do not know that 1 have been absent several months on
this business? |.\t this i)oint all the Indians shouted, 'Yes.'] I went away,
but 1 left a good and strong man in my place. I call upon Governor Mason to
speak to you."
.\cting Governor Mason made a few brief remarks. Then the governor called
ujjnn M. T. Simmons, perhaps the best known of all the whites among the Indians,
and a great fa\X)rite. He knew just how to win Indian popularity, and his
speech was received with great cheers. The Indians were now sufficiently relaxed
to iiemiit of the go\ernor getting down to business again, and he resumed his
talk as follows :
"The (ireat bather thinks you ought to have homes, .-uid lie wants you to have
a school where your children can learn to read, and can lie made farmers and be
taught trades. He is willing you should catch fish in the waters, and get roots and
berries back in the mountains. He wishes you all to be virtuous and industrious,
and to become a happy and ])rosperous community. Is this good, and do you
want this? If not. we will t;dk further. |.\t this pnini nil the Indians answered
that they wanted this.]
••-My children, I have simi)ly tnid you the heart of the Great Father. I'.ul the
lands are )X)urs. and we mean to pay you for them. We thank you that you have
been so kind to all the white children of the Great Father who have come here
from the East. Those white children have always told you \ou would be p.iid
for your lands, and we are now here to buy them.
"The white children of the Great Father, but no more his children than you
are. have come here, some to build mills, some to till the land, and others to build
and sail ships. My children, I believe that I have got your hearts, "^'ou have
my heart. We will put our hearts down on paper, and then we will sign our
names. 1 will send that paper to the Great Father, and if he says it is good, it
will stand forever. I will now have the paper read to you, and all I ask of you
2.000 Indians is that you will say just what you think, and. if you find it good,
that your chiefs and headmen will sign the same."
88 HISTORY OF SEATTLE .
The Indians next sung a mass after the service of the Roman Cathohc
Church, and recited a prayer.
The governor then arose and asked to hear what Seattle, and the other chiefs
had to say, before the reading of the treaty, which was the next order of busi-
ness. Seattle arose and said :
"I look upon you as my father. All the Indians have the same good feeling
toward you, and will send it on the paper to the Great Father. All of them —
men. old men, women and children — rejoice that he has sent you to take care
of them. My mind is like yours ; I don't want to say more. My heart is very
good towards Doctor Maynard: I want always to get medicine from him."
The governor was well pleased with what Seattle had said, and requested that
the other Indians, if pleased, make known that fact by giving "three cheers" for
the chief, which was done. Then the governor called upon Pat-ka-nim, chief of
the Snohomish. Pat-ka-nim made known his views, thus :
"Today I understood your heart as soon as you spoke. I understood your
talk plainly. God made my heart and those of my people good and strong. It is
good that we should give you our real feelings today. We want everything as
you have said, the doctor and all. Such is the feeling of all the Indians. Our
hearts are with the whites. God makes them good towards the Americans."
Three cheers were then given for I'at-ka-nim. After he had sat down Chow-
its-hoot of the Skagit trilje was called for and he addressed the assemblage:
"I do not want to say much. My heart is good. God has made it good
towards you. I work on the ground, raise potatoes, and build houses. I have
some houses at home. But 1 will stop building if you wish and will move to
Cha-chu-sa. Now I have given you my opinion, and that of my friends. Their
feelings arc all good, and they will do as you say hereafter. My mind is the
same as Seattle's. I love him, and send my friends to him if they are sick. I
go to Doctor Maynard at Seattle if I am sick."
After the cheering had died away and Chow-its-hoot had returned to his
station, Goliah stepped forward and spoke :
"My mind is the same as the governor's. God has made it so. I have no
wish to say much. I am happy at heart. I am happy to hear the governor talk
of God. My heart is good and that of all my friends. I give it to the governor.
I shall be glad to have a doctor for the Indians. We are all glad to hear you,
and to be taken care of by you. I do not want to say more."
Cheers were then given for the last of the speakers for the Indians, and the
most important stage of the council business was reached — the reading of the
treaties. This went forward with unusual success, all the Indians seeming
to be well pleased with its provisions. The governor then signed the papers, first,
and the chiefs and headsmen added their signatures.
It was now growing late and a very important ceremony had not yet been
held, namely, the giving of presents ; for the Indian never talks business without
the customary "potlatch." Because of the oncoming darkness the Indians were
instructed to wait for the morrow. All concerned then retired for the night and
when the day arrived the presents were doled out to the chiefs to be distributed
to their peoples. The governor gave them to understand that these presents were
not intended to be part of the treaty payments but just the "potlatch" and the
Indians understood and were pleased. As a finale, Seattle came forward and
O
I
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 89
presented a white flag to the governor, the emblem of peace, accompanied with
the following toast :
"Now, by this we make friends, and put away all bad feelings, if we ever
had any. \\'e are the friends of the .Americans. All the Indians are of the same
mind. We look upon you as our father. We will never change our minds, but,
since you have been to see us, we will always be the same. Now ! now ! do you
send this paper of our hearts to the Great Chief. That is all I have to say."
The Indians then departed for their separate abodes to remain until the treaty
had been ratified by the Great Father (which is the President and the Senate)
and preparations made to remove them to the reservation grounds.
The territory ceded by this treaty was very great extending from the summit
of the Cascades on the east as far north as the forty-ninth parallel and on the
south as far as the Puyallup River and the watershed on the west side of the
Sound. To the Indians were given reservation lands- — 1,280 acres at Port
Madison, 1,280 acres on the east side of Fidalgo Island, and the island called
Chah-chu-sa in the Lummi River. The principal reservation was that at Tulalip
Bay which embraced an entire township. Payments w'ere to be made as follows :
$150,000 in annuities in goods, etc., for twenty years, and $15,000 for improve-
ments on the reservation were provided. The Indians had several rights reserved
to them such as the right to fish, and to hunt on vacant land.
J. Ross Browne, under appointment from the United States Treasury Depart-
ment, made an official visit to the Sound country in November, 1857. Under
the nom de plume of "Porte Crayon" he had become well known to the reading
public of the United States through Harper's Magazine and other publications.
He was detailed to visit Oregon and Washington and examine into and
report upon the causes of the Indian war.
lie left San Francisco August 15, 1857. coming by steamer to Astoria and uj)
the Columbia River to Rainier, and from the mouth of the Cowlitz overland to
-' )lympia on the worst road known to civilization.
About everj'thing that had been published in the newspapers of the East and
in official reports by army officers regarding the Indian war had been unfriendly
to the officers and people of the Pacific Northwest ; therefore the gratification
with which his findings were received by our people may well be imagined.
Several naragraphs from it will be read with interest :
"Accompanied by Capt. C. J. Sprague, he left San Francisco on the 15th of
August, and on the 19th arrived at Rainier, on the Columbia River. There
tiie first news was received of the murder of I. N. Ebey by Northern Indians,
at his residence on Whidby's Island. Great alarm prevailed on the shores of
Puget Sound, and the families of the settlers were seeking safety in flight. The
alarm had spread to the Cowlitz Landing and fears were entertained there, from
certain movements of the Upper Cowlitz Indians, that the ^'akimas and Klickitats
were about to break.
"On the road from Cowlitz Landing to OlymjMa, the most depressing evidences
arc found at every step of the disastrous effects of the war. Houses are aban-
doned and falling into ruin, fine farms are lying waste, fences are broken down,
and those of the settlers who still remain have in most cases fortified themselves
with pickets and blockhouses. This has taken place, too, in a part of the coun-
tr)- somewhat remote from the actual scene of warfare."
90 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
During the trip to Port Madison, Mr. Browne and friend visited many inter-
esting islands and points on the Sound, and saw the various tribes engaged in
catching and curing their fish.
"At Port Townsend there were but lOO Indians of the Claim. There are
1,100 in all, at that point and Dungeness, when gathered in. The agent intro-
duced the party to the Great Chief, the 'Duke of York.' who lives with his wives
'Queen Mctoria' and 'Jenny Lind' in a wigwam on the beach. The duke was
very drunk, and so were Jenny Lind and Queen Mctoria — so much so, indeed, as
to be incapable of holding a wa-wa. Another \isit was made several days after,
and the whole family were drunk.
"The vices of intoxication are rapidly taking off the Sound Indians. In the
cruise around the shores, whisky boats could be seen at every point ; but there
seems to be no legal process by which the venders can be punished, unless caught
in the act, and then no jury will convict the offenders. Repeated efforts have
been made to enforce the laws, but without effect.
"A picket fort, under the command of Colonel Pickett, has been built at a dis-
tance of five miles from Whatkum, the Town of Bellingham Bay. The same In-
dians inspected this fort, and notified Colonel Pickett that they would take his
head as a trophy, which they much desired. Colonel Pickett found means to
send them word that he would be happy to deliver to them any amount of grape
and canister but that his headpiece was an indispensable appendage, with which
it would be very inconvenient for him to part.
"Returning to Port Townsend, after visiting the Island of Guyemas and other
points of interest, the next step was to investigate the condition of affairs on
Wliidby's Island. Crossing over in a boat, the party examined the house of
Colonel Ebey, which they found deserted, and in great disorder, being thor-
oughly ransacked by the Indians. The marshal, Mr. Corliss, has published an
accurate statement of the murder: 'A canoe with nine Indians came to the land--
ing on the preceding day, and were ordered off. They returned that night, and,
aided by the darkness, surrounded the house. Aroused by the barking of his
dog. Colonel Ebey stepped out, and seeing the Indians, urged them to go away.
He had no arms about him or in the house. They fired upon him and wounded
him — and afterwards, upon a second fire killed him, when they sprang upon
his prostrate body and cut his head off', as if with a knife. His wife, two chil-
dren, Mr. and Mrs. Corliss, escaped out of the back window and fled into the
woods. Before they could procure assistance the Indians made their escape,
taking with them their bloody trophy. This murder is the more remarkable, as
Colonel Ebey had always treated the Northern Indians with the greatest hospital-
ity. It is supposed to have been induced by the killing of a party of the same
tribe some time ago by the Massachusetts. The Indians are never known to
forget an injury, and they have proclaimed their intention of having the head
of a white Tyee for every man of their tribe killed by the whites. When the
news reached Port Townsend, seventeen of the Northern Indians of a dift'erent
tribe were taken and imprisoned in the blockhouse, from which, however, they
made their escape, by the connivance of the guard. Some of them were after-
wards killed by a party of Colonel Fitzhugh"s Indians.'
"No steps have yet been taken by the military authorities to capture and punish
the murderers; and, as they live in Russian possessions, it is not likely that they
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 91
will be molested. The arrival of the steamer Constitution about this time gave
some conlidence to the settlers ; but that vessel is too large, slow and unwieldy
for purposes of Indian warfare. It is not thought that she will run more than
six months, there being neither trade nor tra\ el enough to support her, even with
the aid of a mail contract.
"Returned to Port Townsend and took steamer Constitution to Seattle — thence
to Steilacoom and Olympia. Crossed from Olympia in a canoe to the Squaxon
Reservation, twelve miles distant on Klatchemin Island, at the entrance of
P.udd's Inlet. Several Indian houses have been erected here, but no Indians are
living in them at present. A small patch of ground has been cultivated, and a
blacksmith shop and school established, under the treaty of Medicine Creek. No
progress has been made in educating the children, it being im]X)ssible to enforce
attendance ; and apart from this, where presents have been made to induce the
children to attend, they unlearn by night w'hat they learn by day. To carrv out
a school system with the Indians, they must be wholly separated from their
parents and families; otherwise it is a farce to attempt lo teacii them ihe arts of
civilization.
"So long as the Indians are fed and clothed at the Government cxpen.se, and
paid for working for themselves, they will no doubt remain quiet ; but no ultimate
benetit can result from the reservation system, unless the young Indians are
taken away and trained up under better influences than any they are surrounded
by at these places.
"Having visited all the tribes on the Sound, and thoroughly investigated the
accounts of the agents, and inquired from every source into the origin and causes
of the war. the conclusion was irresistible that the treaties ought to be ratified;
that another war may break out at any time if something is not sjjcedilv done to
concentrate and pacify the Indians.
"It is grossly unjust to charge the people of Washington Territory with having
commenced a war of plunder against the public treasury. This war was forced
upon them, and had long been designed by the Klickitats, Yakimas. and Walla
Wallas before the treaties made by Governor Stevens.
"The countr>' is now waste and desolate and has lost a valuable part of its
population. The war debt, as allowed by the commissioners at A'ancouver,
mrounts to about a million and a half which will not pay anything towards the
damage done to property, and the almost total destruction of all the business inter-
ests of the territory.
"The chief causes of the war, which formed the principal subject for Mr.
P.'s investigations, may be summed up in a few words: Previous to Tune, 1850,
no steps had been taken to extinguish the Indian title to the Territory of Oregon.
Congress then authorized the a])i)ointment of a commission to treat with the
tribes west of the Cascades. The Donation .\ct of September 27, 1850. followed
this, and took effect long before a single treaty had been made. The comnnssion
made certain treaties at Shampoeg, but gave the Indians some of the best lands
in the Willamette \'alley. The settlers protested and the treaties were never
ratified. .\t this time, the Klickitats had conquered all the inferior tribes of the
Willamette X'alley. and held a sort of possessory right as far south as the Cala-
pooyah Mountains. They were driven north of the Columbia, and no recom-
pense made them for the deprivation of the rights which they had acquired by
92 ■ HISTORY OF SEATTLE
conquest. They united with the Yakimas, who were equally disaffected, and
finally spread the war feeling among the Sound Indians, the Cayuses, and Walla
Wallas — all of whom were more or less apprehensive of being overcome by the
whites.
"Leschi, the famous Nisqually chief, made speeches throughout the country,
among the various tribes, and went as far south as Rogue River, to gain adherents.
He it was who invented the terrible story of the Polakly Illehe, or the Land of
Darkness — a fearful place where he said the white men were going to send all
the Indians ; where the sun never shone, and where the mosquitoes were so
big that a single bite would kill the strongest man.
"Great injustice has been done the people of Oregon and Washington in the
reports of the military made through the war department. Whatever miscon-
duct there may have been in individual cases, the great mass of the people were
driven to war for their self protection; and it is greatly to be regretted that they
were not sustained by the chief of the military forces.
"The war debt is a just debt, if ever there was one ; the commissioners have
faithfully performed their duty; and it is to be hoped that the next Congress by
its prompt action, will rectify the errors of public policy which have resulted
so disastrously, and make such liberal appropriations as may be necessary to
liquidate a just debt, and prevent a recurrence taf the great evils which have
prostrated these remote territories."
The record of the United States Government in all its negotiations and
treaties with the Indians within its borders has been disgraceful. It has been
characterized by deceit, fraud and treacher}'. Broken promises on the part of
the Government, and lying, stealing and all manner of corruption on the part of the
agents appointed to deal with and superintend affairs between the Indians and
the several departments of the Government have been the rule and not the excep-
tion. This was true while the Indian service was managed by civilians and
equally true while the military were in control. Not until the several great
church bodies secured a semblance of authority in dealing with the natives and
were given the power to nominate the agents and employes on the several reserva-
tions was there more than a pretense of honest and fair treatment of the wards
of the Government.
It is true that the influence of the early missionaries in Christianizing the
Indians was practically a failure. There were no Christian Indians in pioneer days.
If there are any now within the confines of Washington, it is not generally known.
That the early missionaries and later religious teachers and representatives of
the churches have done much toward civilizing the natives and bettering their
social life and moral condition is cheerfully admitted here ; also that after the
Indian reservations were placed in nominal charge of agents selected by the
several churches, the Indians generally received kindly and honest treatment, is
tnie. This is one of the few bright spots in a century or two of national dis-
honor in the administration of Indian affairs.
The foregoing declaration is the result of experience and personal observa-
tion during more than sixty years residence in Old Oregon and Washington.
The treatv concluded between Great Britain and the United States in 1846
left the latter in full control of the Oregon country. From that time inducements
were held out to American settlers to leave the comforts and safety of homes in
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 93
the eastern states, journey for six months through an inhospitable region sur-
rounded at every step by savage enemies, and then, if they reached their destination
in safety, they were compelled to settle upon lands that .the beneficent paternal
Government still recognized as Indian territory. In 1850 Congress passed the
Donation Act, but it was several years later before any steps were taken to
extinguish the Indian title to the lands given to settlers under the provisions of
that act.
Xot until 1854-5 were treaties made with the Indians and payments promised
them for the lands then released and thrown open to white settlement. Eight
treaties affecting lands in Washington were made, two of which also affected lands
in Oregon. By them more than fifty-two million acres were released and less
than six million reserved. In 1858 only one of these, the Medicine Creek treaty,
had been confirmed by Congress.
In Alay of that year Colonel Simmons, who had been continued Indian agent
for the Puget Sound District, visited all the reservations in his charge, with the
purpose of assembling the Indians and listening to their grievances. He chartered
a small vessel and took with him a quantity of goods for presents. The editor
of the Pioneer and Democrat accepted an invitation to accompany the party and
made notes of the several "talks" that took place between the agent and the chief
men of the different tribes. From his published account of the expedition, the
following selections are made:
"On leaving Olympia, May 15th, our first visit was made to Fort Kitsap loca-
tion, the station of Local Agent G. A. Page, where were congregated about four
Inmdred of the natives, including their principal chiefs. Colonel Simmons
addressed them in Chinook, in a short but very appreciative speech, telling them
that he had not forgotten them; that they must not be discouraged or become
melancholy because their treaties had not been concluded ; that our delegate to
Congress had written to him that he hoped, and believed, that they would be rati-
fied ere long. Having admonished them about drinking liquor, and various other
matters, he signified that he was ready to hear anything they had to say, when
Seattle, a venerable chief and fast friend of the whites, arose and spoke as follows :
" T want you to understand what I say. I do not drink rum, neither does
Now-e-ches (another chief) and we constantly advise our people not to do so.
1 am not a bad man. I am, and always have been, a friend. I listened to what
Mr. Page says to me, and I do not steal — nor do I or any of my people kill the
whites. Oh! Mr. Simmons! Why don't our papers come back to us? You
always say you hope they will soon come back — but they do not. I fear we are
forgotten, or that we are cheated out of our lands. I have been very poor and
hungrv' all winter, and am very sick now. In a little while I will die. I should
like to be paid for my land before I die. Many of my people died during the cold,
scarce winter without getting their pay. When I die, my people will be very
poor — they will have no property, no chief, and no one to talk for them. You
must not forget them, Mr. Simmons, when I am gone. We are ashamed when
• we think that the Puyallups (a party to the treaty of Medicine Creek) have their
papers. They fought against the whites, whilst we who have never been angry
with them, got nothing. When we get our pay we want it in money. Tlie Indians
are not bad, it is the mean white people that are bad to us. If any person writes
that we do not want our papers concluded, they lie. Oh! Mr. Simmons! You
94 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
see I am very sick. I want you to write quickly to your Great Chief what I say.
I have done.'
"Seattle and the Indians here assembled were of the Duwamish and other
tribes, parties to the treaty of 'Point Elliott." Upon the evening of the same day
(Alay i6th) we arrived at Skaget Head, a location under the supervision of Capt.
R. C. Fay, and an assistant. Here some eight hundred Indians were assembled of
the Skagets, Snohomishes, Snoqualmies. etc., parties also to the treaty of 'Point
Elliott.' In a few words, Colonel Simmons told them the object of his visit — the
nature of the presents he had brought them — for whom they were designed, etc.
After giving them some healthy admonishes in the excessive use of liquor, he
expressed a wish to hear from them ; in answer to which, 'Hetty Kanin,' a sub-
chief of the Snoqualmies, spoke as follows :
" 'I am but a sub-chief, but I am chosen by my people to speak for them
today. I will speak what I think, and I want any of the drinking Indians that
hear me today, contradict me if they can. Liquor is killing our people off fast.
Our young men spend their money that they work for for liquor: then they get
crazy and kill each other, and sometimes kill their wives and children, ^^'e old
men do not drink, and we beg our boys not to trade with the "Kultus Boston"
that sell it. We have all agreed to tell our agent when any liquor boats are about,
and to help him arrest the men that sell it. I will now talk about our treaties :
when is the Great Father that lives across the far mountain going to send us our
papers back? Four summers have now passed since you and Governor Stevens
told us we would get pay for our land, ^\'e remember well what you said to us
then over there (pointing to "Point Elliott"), and our hearts are very sick because
you did not do as you promised. We saw the Nisquallys and Puyallups get their
annuity paid them last year, and our hearts were sick because we could get
nothing. We ne\er fought the whites — they did. If you whites pay the Indians
that fight you, it must be good to fight. We consider it good to have good white
people amongst us ; our young women can gather berries and clams and our voung
men can fish and hunt, and sell what they get to the whites. We are willing that
the whites shall take the timber, but we want the game and fish — and we want
our reserA'es where there is plenty of deer and fish, and good land for potatoes.
We want our Great Father to know what our hearts are, and we want you to
send our talk to him at once. I have done.'
"'Hiram,' a Snoqualmie, then spoke:
"'We want our treaty to be concluded as soon as possiljle; we are tired of
waiting. Our reasons are that our old people, and there are many of them, are
dying. Look at those two old men and women, they have only a little while to
live and they want to get their pay for their land. The white people have taken
it — and you, Air. Simmons, promised us that we should be paid — you and Gov-
ernor Stevens. Suspense is killing us. We are afraid to plant potatoes on the
river bottoms lest some bad white man should come and make us leave the place.
You know what we are, Mr. Simmons. You were the first American we ever
knew, and our children remember you as long as they remember anything. I
was btit a boy when I first knew you. You know we do not want to drink liquor
but we cannot help it when the bad "Bostons" bring it to us. When our treaty
was made, we told our hearts to you and Governor Stevens. They have not
changed since. I have done.'
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 95
■"Bonaparte,' a Snohomish chief, then spoke as follows:
" "What I have to say is not of much consequence. My children have all
been killed by rum, and I am very poor. I believe what Mr. Simmons tells us
about our treaty, but most of the Indians think he lies. My heart is not asleep.
1 have known .Mr. Simmons a long time, and he never lied to me, and I think he
will tell the Great Father how much we want bur pay. I have done.'
"The Lummies, Claims. Makahs, etc., parties to the treaties of 'Point No
I'oint' and "Xeah Bay" were then visited. At Bellingham Bay, New Dungeness
and Neah Bay, or 'VVaddah,' but as the speeches of all the Indians at those dif-
ferent places were the same in substance as those already given — that is, they all
urged the ratification of their treaties in the most earnest terms, we do not con-
sider it necessar)' to further extend this article l)y giving place to them. We
would observe, however, for the information of those not accustomed to deal
with Indian character, that these same Indians that deplore drinking so much in
their speeches, and lay all the blame on the whites (who undoubtedly deserve
all they got) will get drunk and lay all kinds of plans to get liquor. The old
man 'Seattle' is an exception.
".After reading the foregoing, we think that all well disposed and thinking
peoijle will all agree with us that humanity as well as justice makes it the
imperative duty of the Government to adopt some plan by which the Intlians
can be separated from the whites — allotted to their reservations, and provided
for as contemplated in the treaties with them. In witnessing, year after year,
the encroachments of the 'paleface' upon their hunting and fishing grounds when
they could at any time, with all ease, have crushed out our infant settlements,
has given evidence of extraordinary forbearance on their part, and we think
their kindness and consideration should be remembered in return. Now that
we have the power, and particularly our duty is so plainly pointed out to us
by their deplorable situation, we think the speediest, best, and only way of
settling all their difficulties is the ratification of the treaties. The agents will
then have the means in their hands of supplying all that we now think is want-
ing to govern these unhajjjjy creatures, and to lay the groundwork of civilization
for their children to improve upon.
".Xotwithstanding we have spun out this article much beyond our intended
limits yet we cannot close without bearing witness to the extraordinary influence
and control exercised by Colonel Simmons over the various Indian tribes and in
his district. Everywhere, during our excursion, he was received with marked
respect and treated with the utmost consideration. His manner towards them
forbids an approach of vulgar familiarity; and whilst he impresses upon them
the fact that they would do well to regard his counsel, he at once commands
their respect and confidence, whilst at the same time, they are impressed with
a healthy amount of fear. His manner of addressing them is free, bold, dignified,
and peculiarly indicative of sincerity. His delivery is excellent, and he is never
at a loss for words. His manner of settling local difficulties amongst them is
prompt and impressive, and whilst in his presence at least, his word is regarded
as law, from which no appeal is desired. We regard Colonel Simmons as a
natural personification of an Indian agent, and do not know the man that could
advantageously supply his place. These remarks are equally applicable to Judge
S. S. Ford. Sr., special agent for the Chehalis tribe."
96 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
In^ the early '60s the Indians about Seattle had lost all semblance of tribal
influence and led a precarious, happy-go-lucky existence ; the best of what was
Indian in them had vanished, while much of the bad of the whites had become
incorporated in them. Most of the newcomers at once conceived a profound
contempt for them.
The beach along the water front from Columbia Street to Aladison Street
was usually lined with their shacks until they were finally driven away by the
advancing tide of business enterprises. Gambling was their chief besetting vice
and for days at a time the racket of their board drums and monotonous chanting
of the players made the nights hideous. Several styles of play were in vogue,
generally some form of odd or even, but the most popular was early known as
"sing-gambling."
The "sing-gamble," as the favorite amusement of the early Indian sporting
men was known among the whites, was of quite ancient origin, far back beyond
the memories of the oldest Indian inhabitants. The bark of a dead cedar was
stripped off and from this the inner fiber removed. This was then rubbed or
twisted until as fine as oakiun or tow. Of this enough to fill a large bedtick was
prepared. A collection of dry cedar boughs or knots was secured. From these
disks about one-eighth of an inch thick and about two inches in diameter were
sawed. The edges were nicely rounded and then a beautiful polish put on the
disks. Next came the sticks, or counters. These also were of cedar, about four
inches long, half an inch wide, and half rounded, so that placed in a row they
looked like a section of a wooden washboard. Sixty-six of these were made,
that being the number of points the winner had to secure for game. The gambling
paraphernalia also included a woven Indian grass mat 5 feet wide by 10 feet
long.
Not often was it a contest between individuals, but usually of inter-tribal
magnificence. After due consideration among the members of a tribe, the chief
or head man would send a challenge to some other tribe. If accepted, and tribal
honor rarely permitted a refusal, final preparations for the event were consum-
mated. All the canoes, horses, arms, money, and individual belongings were
pooled and placed at the disposal of the chief.
One of the latest and most notable of these gatherings was at Renton in 1894.
Chief William, of the Cedar River tribe, sent a challenge to Seatcum, the oldest
brave of the Puyallups. In a few days couriers arrived carrying the acceptance
of the latter. Two hundred Puyalhips, including women and children, and a
goodly retinue of dogs, followed in due time. Sixteen wagons, several buggies,
;md a cavalcade of horsemen presented an imposing array. All their portable
possessions were brought along.
A shack or tepee of goodly size had been specially prepared for the occasion,
made of sacks, driftwood and old lumber. Preparations made, torn toms ready,
all the belongings of both sides were placed under the control of the referee. In
the event the Puyallups lost they would have to walk home ; if the Renton party
were the losers, they would have no home left to receive them.
In a short time the cabin became filled with smoke and seeing or breathing
became difficult. This went unnoticed. They presented a truly uncanny sight —
painted, decked out with wild holly, cedar bark and red and white berries. That
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 97
was about all they did have on, for the principal part of their attire had been
wagered and staked in the prize pile in an adjoining room.
The opposing leaders sat at each end of the long mat. At a given signal the
Renton braves began sounding their torn toms and all their crowd set up a wild
chant. Doctor Jack was chosen to start the game for them. When he began to
handle the cedar chips and fleecy bark he let out a yell that could be heard a mile ;
then all his adherents took up the cry and chanted it over and over again, keeping
time with the torn toms and moving their bodies to and fro and waving their
hands in unison. Doctor Jack also kept time in all his movements. He seized a
double handful of bark pulp and placed it before him and then counted out
eight white chips and one black one, nine in all. These he clicked in his hands
a few times and covered them over with the pulp. Then, placing four chips in
one hand and five in the other, he wrapped them in pulp and proceeded to shuflle
the two balls thus made in front of him with a dexterity scarcely credible. Though
the movement was changed frequently and kept up with remarkable quickness, the
Puyallups watched and waited ; not a movement of the dealer escaped them.
In one of the balls of pulp was the black chip and this was the one they wanted
to keep their eyes on, for if they were able to pick it out they could score a point.
Suddenly one Puyallup brave waved his hand and Doctor Jack ceased moving
the balls; the music stopped. The ball of pulp designated by the Puyallup brave
was opened by Doctor Jack, who, by a clever manipulation of the wrist and
fingers, sent the hidden chips rolling down the mat before him. The black chip
was in the ball, and the Puyallups had won the first point in the great game. The
Cedar and Black Rivers were now quiet, but the Puyallups gave vent to a yell
that was simply appalling. It was now Johnny Wrinkles' deal, and when he
began manipulating the chips and pulp his retinue started their chant. The noise
of their tom tOms was somewhat livelier than that ot tlie other tribes. First
victory inclined on one side and then on the other, and after ten points had been
won, five by each side, lo and behold! Old Seatcum, the scorer, had not a sign
of a count. A great clamor was raised by the young bucks when this discovery
was made, but the older braves pacified the excited ones by declaring that Seatcum
was not asleep ; that he was counting properly. It was then explained that should
one side win one or more sticks the other side could not score until it had won
them back. The tribe to win must score the whole sixty-six sticks.
The contest began Monday night and was continued without intermission
imtil the following Saturday morning, five nights and four days, and ended in a
draw. .\t one time the Puyallups had fifty-three sticks and their opponents only
thirteen, but a few hours later the latter had regained all but eighteeti of the
precious markers. During the whole contest the Puyallups were in the lead but
could never make the coveted sixty-six. After iro hours of play the game was
a tie and by mutual consent was called off.
The potlatch was a part of the regular program or entertainment. It was a
ceremony to which invitations were issued the same as any social event. Personal
property and also money was given away. By giving away his property the host
hoped also to attain a reputation for liberality and to increase his chance of one
day becoming a chief. The distribution took place in true Christmas style. The
blankets and goods to be given away were stacked in a heap near the firci)lacc,
just opposite the door. The host held up the present and called the guest's name
98 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
who was to receive it, and an attendant stood ready to deliver it. Each guest was
remembered according to his own distribution in the past, or those which he
was expected to make in the future. It was one man"s duty to tear the rolls of
calico, muslin, flannel or whatever cloth it might be, into strips about a yard in
length. In early days it was the custom to also tear the blankets into like strips,
but the whites persuaded them to abandon this wasteful practice, so in time they
were only cut apart into single blankets.
As late as 1850 the attire of the natives, even in winter, was little more than
stark nakedness. By i860 it had become a modified form of the white man's
costume. The males were not so particular, their chief garb being trousers, shirt
and shoes, and sometimes a hat. Many of the older and more conservative of
the males still wore only breech clouts and blankets. This was Chief Seattle's
favorite garb to the last. The women were more particular and usually went
about clothed in white woman's attire.
Much has been written of the beauty of the Indian race, especially of the
maidens. Of course the young were more comely than their elders, but what
little beauty they possessed soon faded. The young women might have retained
their good looks much longer were it not for the prevailing custom of early mar-
riages which forced motherhood upon girls at ages of twelve to fifteen.
The custom of flattening the heads of the infants was practiced quite generally
for many years after the advent of the white settlers, but gradually went into
disuse.
Sanitation among them was practically unknown and disease and filth pre-
vailed everywhere they made their habitations. Most of the pioneers remember
the ceremonies attendant upon the making of their doctors ; also the noises the
latter and their assistants made when treating a patient.
Their sweathouses ornamented the beach just west of First Avenue on the
beach above ordinary high tides, prior to the grading of that street. They were
used somewhat in times of health, but for the treatment of diseases they were
considered a sovereign remedy. They resembled in form the usual potato house
on the farm. A hole was dug in the sand about a foot deep ; around this a wall
of cobble stones was put up about two feet high. This was covered with slabs
or wreckage from the beach. In this was left a small opening toward the water
for a door. Nearby, in a hot fire, a lot of cobble stones the size of a dinner
pail were made redhot. When all was ready the heated stones were moved into
the house and drenched with water. On them were spread a layer of green
branches and these again watered. Clouds of steam accumulated. While it was
almost scalding hot the bather went in and closed the door. Naturally a profuse
perspiration followed. The sweating process was continued as long as the occu-
pant of the hut could endure it, then a rush made for the waters of the bay and
a plunge into them.
This custom was pursued, winter and summer. In case of minor ailments
no serious results might follow, but when smallpox and measles became epidemic
in the Columbia River valleys and on Puget Sound the mortality was frightful.
Explanations and remonstrances by the whites were of no avail and went
unheeded. The time soon came when there were not enough living to bury their
dead. The few survivors abandoned their camps, with their dead, and went
elsewhere.
R
R
>— •
m
2;
r.:ARY
I
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HISTORY OF SEATTLE 99
Notwithstanding the abuses that accompanied the reservation system for many
years, no doubt it did much to preserve the remnants of the tribes from extinc-
tion. White man's habits never took kindly to the Indian and it was far better
for the latter that he should be removed as much as possible from the demoraliza-
tion attendant upon intercourse between the two races.
686712 A
CHAPTER V
SEATTLE'S MOSQUITO FLEET
Many notable American writers, in poetry and prose, have recorded the
activities tDf the conventional stage coach of the Great \\'est and the char-
acteristics and social amenities of its driver. Today no wild west show is
thought complete without the old-time lumbering vehicle with its leather springs
and driver's seat, perched high in front over the boot, and with from four to
six spirited horses attached. The part played by these ships of the plains in
the development of the states west of the Mississippi River has been perpetu-
ated in fiction and in history.
On Puget Sound, with the exception of Olympia and Steilacoom, both of
which were from the first accessible by good roads, the canoe, the sail boat
and the small steamer took the place of the stage coach. In early days Seattle
was practically without roads and outlying points in the county were difficult of
access except on foot or on horseback. For this reason more space may be
properly given to the history of Seattle's Mosquito Fleet than would be other-
wise admissible.
The mails of the Pacific Coast came from New York by ocean steamer to
San Francisco, and from San Francisco to Portland and Puget Sound by sim-
ilar craft ; while all along the Sound from Olympia to Victoria and to Belling-
ham and intermediate ports, all sorts of water craft delivered the mails and
transported passengers and distributed to the settlers all the necessaries of life
not produced in the forest or on the little patches of ground that had been
laboriously reclaimed from it.
The arrival of the steamer, for a long time only once a week, each way, vv^as
a notable event and nearly all the men who could spare the time were on the
dock when her lines were made fast. In Seattle, Monday was market day for
the nearby farmers as the mail steamer bringing letters and weekly papers giv-
ing intelligence from the outside world arrived from Olympia sometime in the
middle of the afternoon. It did not then require a large motor-driven truck to
transport the mailsacks from the boat to the postofifice. For years there were
but one small locked pouch and one sack of newspapers that any able bodied
man could carry on his shoulders.
Seattle's matchless harbor may be said to have produced its own business ;
its location made it impossible for any other city on the Sound in the days
before the railway to wrest from it its supremacy in the local trade, and it was
from this trade that Seattle derived its first nourishment. When one looks back
with the wisdom lent him by safe contemplation of an accomplished fact, it is
hard -to realize why the obvious advantage of Seattle's location over other local-
ities was not taken advantage of by the men who chose Tacoma as the terminus
for the Northern Pacific and to those others who pinned their faith to the
100
i
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 101
ultimate im])ortance of other Puget Sound points. It is quite certain that
Seattle's natural advantage was apparent to some but they wanted to enrich
themselves from dishonest profits on terminus town lots. The only farms of
the district in those days were along the hanks of the rivers, and on a few of
the islands. On the Duwamish, the Snohomish, the Skagit, the LaConner Flats,
then and now the richest farming lands in all America, and on W hidhy Island
were farmers whose trade was a great asset to the settlement that received it.
The mills of Kitsap County and the scores of logging camps were the chief
source of business until comparatively recent years. To reach these localities
from any point on the Sound other than Seattle, Seattle had to he passed. Com-
merce will not deliberately flow past an open door and .Se;ittle held her portals
wide. The mosquito fleet in those early days spread o\ cr all the Sound and laid
their cargoes on Seattle's water front. Today flags of all the nations that send
men down to the sea to take and fetch the products of the world fly from masts
in Seattle's harbor.
The whole country alx)ut Seattle was a dense forest in the beginning to which
the hardy woodsmen from New England, Michigan and Minnesota flocked with
their axes. They had the enterprise which coined the forest into money. Cut
off through lack of railroads from the market in the eastern states they sought
outlet for their product in foreign lands and from Puget Sound sailed "wind-
jammers" to all parts of the world where the straight spars and magnificent lum-
ber that .Seattle and the surrounding country had in abundance found a ready
market.
Vessels began to navigate the Sound (|uite extensively as early as 1850 but
the first export business of Seattle was a cargo of piles for the brig Leonesa.
The cargo was completed in the winter of 1851-52 with the aid of a yoke of
oxen driven along the beach from ruyallup. At about the same linic the ship
G. W. Kendall was sent from .San h'rancisco to Puget Sound for ice. But in
the hope of getting a cargo of this luxury the master was disappointed. lie
reported that the Puget Sound w.iters did not freeze and consoled the owners
of the ship by returning with a valuable cargo of piles from Seattle.
These first shi])menls consisted chiefly of squared timbers, piles, ships' knees,
and later after Henry L. Yesler had Imilt the first steam sawmill near the pres-
ent site of Pioneer Place, sawn timbers and lumber.
Port lllakeley. Port Orchard and Port Madison :dl buill large vessels in the
early days. These points across the Sound were like suburbs of Seattle, for
all of them did their shopping and marketing here. Like the street cars of
today, which bundle the suburbanites oft to the city markets every .Saturdav
evening and return tluni to tiieir homes in the outlying districts. loaded down
with provisions for the week, the water craft of pioneer days were the public
service vehicles, which brought the shojjpers to the Seattle market.
The vessels of Seattle's early mosquito fleet were the miniature mail order
houses which sujiplied the settlers with their conveniences and small luxuries.
Their masters were the friends of the village i)eople. They carried with them
a store of jiithy yarns, a large fund of the latest gossip and a good word for
old and young. When their vessels arri\ed in port the townsfolk were at the
wharf to give them a hearty greeting and learn of the last events along the
SotuuI. If grandmother wanted a skein of yarn or if the village belle needed
102 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
a yard of blue ribbon to match, the captain knew exactly where the articles were
to be had, and when his ship came in on the return voyage it brought a store of
good will to everyone.
From these small beginnings developed the great freight trade which has
established Seattle as the center of commerce in the Northwest today.
San Francisco's sudden growth after the gold discovery in California sent
vessels to Puget Sound for timbers. Cargoes of timber squared for sills, plates,
bridge timbers, etc., left Elliott Bay each summer before the Indian uprising of
1855-6-
Among the early vessels which carried the cargoes prepared for them by the
axes of Seattle's pioneers were the American brigs George Emery, Orbit, G. W.
Kendall, Leonesa, John Davis, b'ranklin .\dams, Daniel, Jane, Eagle : American
schooners. Exact, Damariscove, Franklin, Susan Sturgis, Mary Taylor, Cynosure,
Mexican, Cecil ; British vessels, Mary Dare, Alice, Honolulu Packet ; American
bark Brontes. Later came the ship John Brewer from London, ship Persia from
San Francisco, schooner Northern Light, brig Sophia, brig James Marshall and
the bark Alabama.
On account of the large shipments to San Francisco late in 1853, Seattle's
lumber trade began to assume definite proportions. Capt. A. B. Gove, master of
the ship Potomac, arranged with the owners of the vessel in San Francisco to
have it visit the ports of Puget Sound regularly instead of periodically as it
had been doing before. Early in 1853 the schooners Mary, Rover, Whatcom,
William Allen, the ship Tuskina, several barks and the British iron schooner Alice
were doing an active business on the Sound.
The same year saw the departure of the bark Louisiana, Alfred Drew master,
the first vessel to leave for China with a cargo of ship spars. The bark Mary
Adams, Captain Harding, soon followed her lead with Singapore as her destina-
tion.
By 1854 there were four regular lines operating on the Sound, and touching
at Seattle.
P. B. Barstow & Company's line of packets operated the brig Kingsbury, the
clipper bark Mary Melville. The Seward line of packets ran the ship .Sarali
Parker, the brig Merchantman and the schooner Willimantic; Merritt and Gove
operated the Live Yankee, Yankee Doodle and Yanky Nation; and the firm of
Kendall & Company owned and operated several ships.
Among the vessels on the Sound in the fall of 1854 were the following:
Steamer Major Tompkins, Hunt, master; brig Cyclops, McDonald, master;
steamer Active, Alden, master; Harriet Thompson, Birdslee, master; bark Success,
Coupe, master; bark Julia Ann, Pound, master; brig Consort, Wash, master;
Kaluna, Cavellish, master ; I. P. Foster, Wiggins, master ; brig Francisco, Smith,
master; bark Louisa, Johnson, master; steamer Fairy, Gove, master; sloop Sarah
Stone, Slater, master; bark Sarah Warren, Gove, master; clipper bark Live
Yankee, A. W. Gove, master; bark Russell, Wilson, master; brig Chauncey;
ship Nile; brig Wellingsby ; revenue cutter Jefif Davis, Pease, captain; bark
Powhattan ; frigate Pique, Nicholson, master ; steamer Virago, Marshall, master ;
sloop Rob Roy, McLean, master; schooner Harriet, Bowden, master; frigate
president, Burtridge, commander; (The President, Pique and Virago were
British men-of-war that lately had encountered the Russians at Petropolovski ;
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 103
they had brought llic Russian vessel Sitka to \'ictoria as a prize) ; brig I. B. Brown.
Myhanv master; brig Carbon, Sampson, master; scliooncr B. B. Potter, fishing
vessel; bark Ella Francis, Mitchell, master; schooner Willimantic,- Boyling, mas-
ter; brig E. D. Wolf, Kanes, master; ship Mason, Wilkinson, master; bark Mary
Melville, Darby, master; bark Brontes, Ludberg, master; bark Rio Grande;
brig Merchantman, Pray, master; brig George Emery, Diggs, master.
Thus within less than a decade Puget Sound had become a haven of white
sails and Seattle had established herself as the center of activity. But in Septem-
ber, 185^. an undertaking was set afoot on Puget Sound w hich meant the beginning
of the end of the supremacy of these vessels on its waters. The men who were
busy laying the corner stone of a future Seattle found that the presence of a
regular steamer would be required to handle the rapidly increasing commerce
on the Sound. They needed something more than speedy sailing \esscls and
something ditierent from the snail-like policy which was content with the change-
able winds and tides. They had already suflfered materially from the want of such
a vessel. In transportation of live stock they had been forced to use flat-bottomed
boats and scows, often under incoiuenient, tedious and even dangerous cir-
cumstances. Instead of the tall masts hewn from the forests on the hills, fur-
naces and boilers were destined to hold the suprcniacy among Seattle shipbuilders.
Still the sails and spars did not altogether disai)]x-ar. For years sailing
vessels of every description have been important carriers in the coal, fish and
lumber trade of the Sound. Today they may be seen at any time plying in
and out among the great sea-going steamers which ride at anchor in Seattle's
harbor.
The appearance of the first steamboat on Puget Sound to engage in local
traffic was as noticeable an incident in its way as the advent of the Claremonl on
the Hudson River about fifty years earlier.
Both effected a revolution in marine traffic, one world wide, the other locally.
For years after the first white men arrived here the Indian canoe, propelled
by paddles, or by sail, if the wind was fair, was almost the only means of com-
munication between the different ports. Later, sloops, broad of beam and capable
of carr)ing a large area of sail, came into common use.
The pioneer steamer of Puget Sound and indeed of the Pacific Ocean, was
the Beaver. To my mind no other craft has ever floated on any sea around
which so much romantic interest centers.
When the race came off in which the America won the cuj) that England's
greatest designers and most gallant sportsmen have tried so often to recover,
after the announcement of the America's victory, the question was asked : "What
boat was second?" The reply was, "There was no second, your Majesty."
So it was with the Beaver. There was no second to her. She was in a
class by herself. She was built at the same period the first American mission-
aries came to Oregon, 1834, though she was not launched until 1835. She was
an old boat when gold was discovered in California.
She was built at Blackwell, on the River Thames, five or six miles down
stream from the old London Bridge and of oak throughout. Few, if any of the
notable craft that have been launched since that day have attracted a tithe of
the attention accorded to her during her construction or at her launching. From
the day her keel was laid until she went down the English Channel on her way
Vol. I— g
104 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
to the Western Ocean, that had never feh the throb of paddle or propeller,
she was the object of close and kindly interest. King William and a host of the
nobility of England, surrounded by 150,000 of all classes of people, were present
at the launching. But little was known about steam marine navigation at that
time and the coast of the North Pacific was also almost unknown save to a few
traders and whalers. It seemed an act of heroic daring for those on board her
to venture out in. a craft so tiny to a mysterious and almost unknown region on
the other side of the world.
Her machinery was placed in position, but her sidewheels were not attached,
so she was fitted out with sails, brig rigged and made the long voyage under
canvas by the way of Cape Horn and the Hawaiian Islands, with Captain
Home in ctammand. The bark Columbia sailed with her, as consort, and
although the Beaver was much speedier than the other they kept together most
of the time. The voyage from England to the mouth of the Columbia River
lasted 163 days and no serious accident happened to either of the vessels.
The Beaver lost but little time in sailing up the Columbia to Fort Vancouver.
Carpenters were at once set to work putting the paddles in place and getting the
craft ready for service. At 4 P. M. May 16, 1836, steam was raised and the
engines tried and found to be in good condition. At daylight, Tuesday, May 17,
they unmoored the ship and got steam up. At 3.30 A. M. weighed anchor and
ran down stream several miles for firewood.
The shores of the lordly Columbia at Vancouver echoed the first pufifs of
steam and the beat of the paddles of the first steamer on either shore of the
Pacific. The next few weeks were occupied in painting the upper works and in
making sundry excursions up and down the Columbia and up the "Wilhammet"
as the river is spelled in the log of the Beaver.
In Parker's "Exploring Tour Beyond the Rocky Mountains," on page 325
is the following:
"On the i4tli of June we took a water excursion on the steamboat Beaver,
Captain Home, down the Columbia to the confluence of the western branch of
the Multnomah, and through it into the Columbia and back to the fort. All
the low lands were overflowed by the annual freshet, and presented the appear-
ance of an immense bay, extending far into the country. The day was pleasant
and our company cheerful. The novelty of a steamboat on the Columbia awak-
ened a train of prospective reflections upon the probable changes which would
take place in these remote regions ' in a very few years. It was wholly an
unthought of thing when I first contemplated this enterprise, that I should find
here this forerunner of commerce and business. The gayety which prevailed
was often suspended while we conversed of coming days when with civilized
men all the rapid improvements in the arts of life should be introduced over this
new world, and when cities and villages shall spring up on the west, as they
are springing up on the east of the great mountains, and a new empire shall be
added to the kingdoms of the earth."
These people went up the river nearly where the City of Portland now
stands, and from the decks of a steamer making the same run now can be seen
the homes of nearly three hundred thousand people. The paragraph above
contained a remarkable prophecy.
June 26, 1836, the Beaver crossed the bar outward bound, never agani to
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 105
re-enter that river, and steamed away to the north. At this time nearly all
this Northwest was under the control of the Hudson's Bay Company, either by
lease from the Russians or under grant from the English government, and that
company had almost a monopoly in the fur trade and in traffic witii the Indians.
Into this service the Beaver went at once, running up the coast to Sitka and in
and out of every bay, river and inlet between that port and Puget Sound.
riie following about her appears in a letter from Mr. Edward lluggins, who
then lived at Fort Nisqually with his wife, who was a daughter of John Work,
mentioned by him. He says :
"December 3, 1836, the Beaver came to Fort Nisqually and received on
board Mrs. John Work and family, who had a few weeks before made the
journey from \"ancouver via the Cowlitz River, by canoes and across the country
on horseback, and were now going to join Mr. Work at Fort Simpson which
is several hundred miles to the northward of Victoria, where he was in com-
mand of the fort and the company's business at that point.
"The Beaver, of course, burned wood, and always kept a corps of men. ten.
I think, as wood chojrpers, and old John McLeod and Joseph Legard, now living
in the neighborhood of Fort Nisqually, were of the company of choppers for
some time.
"Her engines were built by the celebrated firm of r>olton & Watts, and
were models of strength and solidity. Her ]Kuldle wheels were small and set
far forward. She carried a crew of thirty men. an armament of four six-
pounders and was extensively supplied with small arms. The decks were pro-
tected by boarding nettings to ])rcvent access by the natives otherwise than by the
gangways, and more than thirty Indians were never allowed on deck at one time,
unless they were accompanied by their wives and children.
"After paying for herself several times over she was thought too small and
slow for the company's business so they brought out the Otter, a propeller, in
1851. The Beaver continued in the company's service for some years, but was
eventually sold and put into service as a tugboat."
In 1851, while in command of Captain Steward, she made a Irij) over to
the .\merican side, where she was seized and taken to Olympia for alleged
infraction of our revenue laws. Her captain watched his ojiportunily and i)ut
ihe watchmen ashore then made haste to get out of American waters. The trouble
ended there, for it was not long until she was plying freely on this side the line.
During the Indian war the Beaver and Otter were i)laced at the dis])os;d of the
territorial authorities several times and were used to much advantage.
In 18(^10 she was turned into a passenger boat and placed on the run between
Victoria and New Westminster, and a few years later she was chartered for
use in coast surveys of British Columbia waters, continuing in this service until
late in 1870. She had now been afloat and in hard service for a generation, so
was hauled out and given thorough repairs. Her timbers were as sound as
when she was launched, but in one of them was found embedded a piece of rock
weighing ten pounds that she had picked up one time when she had meddled
with Race Rocks. A less substantial craft would have had her hull crushed
like an eggshell at that time.
In 1874 she was again refitted and turned into a towboat, and a few weeks
later the Hudson's Bay Company sold her to a private firm. She continued in
lOli HISTORY OF SEATTLE
the towing business until i8S8, having had se\ere usage most of the time, and
one time burned nearly to the water's edge. The latter year she again took out
a license as a passenger boat and went into that business on Burrard's Inlet.
In July of that year she ran on the rocks at the entrance of Vancouver
harbor. Negotiations were begun by a company to purchase her, which intended
to place her on exhibition. However, on inspection it was found that memento
seekers had nearly pulled her to pieces, and the idea was abandoned. Soon after,
in a gale of wind, the battered old hulk slid from her perch upon the rocks and
went to the bottom.
It was more than seventeen years after the arrival of the Beaver before an
American steamboat went into service here in Seattle.
The steamer Fairy, D. J. Gove, master, arrived at Olympia the night of
October 31, 1853. Captain Gove had just brought her from San Francisco on
the bark Sarah \^'arren.
Her ad\ertisement appeared November 12th, giving dates of departures and
arrivals; also agents, who were: Philip Keach, Steilacoom ; Charles C. Terry,
Alki; Arthur A. Denny. Seattle. Fare from Olympia to Seattle $10.00.
The Major Tompkins was the next to arrive. She was a propeller of sea-
going qualities. She was built in Philadelphia in 1847 and went to New Orleans
and ran from that place until 1850. That year she went to New York and from
there came to San Francisco. She ran for a time on the Sacramento River in
opposition to the regular line, but was soon bought oft". In 1854 John H. Scran-
ton and James M. Hunt secured a contract to carry the United States mails on
Puget Sound and bought her for the service. It took her about three weeks to
make the trip from the Bay City to Olympia. She arrived at the latter place
September 20, 1854, and was welcomed with great rejoicings at Seattle, and all
the ports along the Sound where she traveled. Her career was even shorter and
as disastrous as that of her predecessor. February 25, 1855, while entering
Victoria Harbor, she was wrecked, becoming a total loss except a portion of
her machinery. While not engaged on her regular run she did some towing of
sail vessels in and out from the Sound and therefore was the first American
vessel to do this kind of work.
The Water Lily, a sidewheeler, only forty-nine feet long, was built in San
Francisco in 1853, and brought to the Sound on a sailing vessel by Capt. ^^■il-
liam Webster, in January, 1855. He was then opening a coal mine on the bank
of Black River and used her in towing scows from the mine to Seattle. She was
snagged and sunk almost immediately after going to work.
Soon after the sinking of the Tompkins the Fairy went on the run from
Olympia to Seattle, with mails and passengers under the command of Capt.
Charles C. Terry.
The Pioneer and Democrat of October 26, 1855, says: "Through the enter-
prise of Mr. John G. Parker of this place, a small but neat and comfortable
steamer has been placed upon the waters of the Sound, to ply between this point
and Seattle ; also to carry the United States mail. Mr. Parker will command
her and we heartily wish that the public would gi\e him a good support. The
long absence of steam communication on the Sound has been seriously felt and
the arrival of the Traveler was universally hailed with joy."
This was the first appearance of Capt. John G. Parker in the role of a steam-
HISTORY OF SF.ATTLE 107
boat man on Puget Sound althoiigli he arrived in Olympia in i<^53. and had been
engaged in merchandising and the express business. Down to the time of his
retirement from active service he was the best known steamboat man on Puget
Sound, and his sons, Gilmore and Herbert Parker, both steamboat men, later
became almost as well known.
The Traveler was built at Philadelphia in the early '50s and brought around
the Horn in sections and set up at San Francisco. She was an iron propeller
and was loaded on the brig J. B. Brown and brought to Port Gamble. The
Traveler ran between Olympia and Seattle going one way each week and stop-
ping at all intermediate points. She was very seniceable during the contin-
uance of the Indian war and Captain Parker did good work in command of her
until its close. To her belongs the honor of being the first steamboat to navigate
the White, Snohomish and Xooksack rivers.
\\'illiam X. Horton, another well known pioneer of Olympia, served as engi-
neer on the Traveler most of the time Parker owned her until 1857 when he
bought the vessel and took over the command. Early in March, iiS^S, .she was
again on the route from Olympia to Port Townsend, carrying mails and pas-
-engcrs, having been for some time under charter to the Indian department.
She left Port Townsend March 3d for Port Gamble in command of Capt.
Thomas Slater with six white men and two Indians on board. Xear Foulwcather
Bluff she encountered a severe storm and anchored under the lee of the liluff
to await better weather. During the night she sprung a leak and began settling
so rapidly that nothing could be done to save her. Warren, the engineer, and
the two Indians swam ashore, while the others stayed with the vessel a little
too long and sank with her. They were Thomas Slater, captain; Truman H.
Fuller, purser; Mr. Stevens, a passenger, and two deck hands, names unknown.
Late in August. 1857, the Constitution, a small ocean-going steamer, arrived
to run between Olympia and Victoria. She was 165 feet long.
There was a fatality connected with the early mail service on Puget Sound,
for disaster soon overtook every steamer engaged in it for years. This new one
was no exception. The Constitution began running on the Olympia-Victoria
route soon after her arrival. Hunt, one of the partners in the mail contract, serv-
ing as master. John L. Butler, who continued in service on Puget Sound waters
for over thirty years, was pilot and Charles E. Williams, one of Olympia's lead-
ing merchants for many years afterward, was purser.
The mail contract brought in $36,000 j)er year, but the other l)usiness was not
large, and the steamer was an expensive one to run, so that in a few months she
was sold at auction by the United States marshal for a pittance. Later she was
dismantled and her hull turned into a sailing vessel. As a barkentine she went
into the lumber carrying trade from T^iget Sound mills and did excellent serv-
ice for many years.
.\ few weeks before the Constitution steamed away from San Francisco the
steamer Sea Bird, Capt. Francis Conner, made her appearance at Olympia. under
engagement to carry the mails on the Sound. She went on the route from
' 'lymjiia to ISellingham Bay instead of to \'ictoria. The Eraser River mines were
attracting attention at this time and Bellingham Bay had a thriving city on its
shores for some months in 1858.
-About June ist she left the Sound run and went into business on the Eraser
108 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
River. On her down trip she grounded on a bar and was not released until
September 2d, after the rush to the mines was nearly ended. Five days later,
while en route from \'ictoria to Fort Langley on the Eraser, she caught fire
and was totally de.stroyed.
The Resolute, the pioneer steam tug, arrived at Port Madison May 6lh, a
short time prior to the Sea Bird's leaving.
This craft had a history of her own. She became identified with milling and
shipping interests, and wherever a boom of logs or a vessel was to be towed
between Budd's Inlet and Neah Bay she was a frequent visitor.
George A. Meigs, of Port Madison mills, and Pope and Talbot, of Port
Gamble mills, bought her in partnership and brought her from San Francisco
to Puget Sound. She came up under command of Captain Pray, who ran her
for a few months and was then succeeded by Capt. I. M. Guindon. Her length
was 89 feet, beam 171^ feet, and depth 9 feet 4 inches. She was devoted to the
towage business exclusi\ely, and though a small craft, was exceedingly powerful.
In Octolier she came in collision with the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's
Northerner about midway between Steilacoom and Olympia. Both boats were
injured and the ensuing lawsuit became a celebrated case in the courts.
In August, 1808, while towing a boom of logs, her boiler exploded, killing
or drowning all but the captain and one other, and sinking the boat.
The Eliza Anderson made her first appearance on Puget Sound in March,
1858. She was built at Portland, Oregon, for the Columbia River Steam Naviga-
tion Coini)any, consisting of Richard Hoyt, S. G. Reed, Benjamin Stark, Rich-
ard \A'illiams, J. C. Graham and W. B. Wells. Pier keel was laid in 1857 '^"d
about eighteen months were consumed in her construction the launching taking
place November 27. 1858. Early in 1859 John T. Wright and ISradford Brothers
bought her and she was brought around to the Sound under command of Capt.
J. G. Hustler.
The Anderson was in type a sea-going vessel and the finest one on the Sound
fitted for the work. She was 140 feet long, 24 feet 6 inches beam, 8 feet 10
inches hold, 279 tons register; low pressure vertical or "walking beam'' engine.
For many years she could do twelve knots an hour if necessary, but usually
jogged along at about nine.
On her arrival, Capt. John Fleming took charge and .she began a career of
money making interspersed with vicissitudes that made her name a household
word in marine circles for forty years. During the first fifteen she was a travel-
ing bank and a floating gold mine. Probably no other craft of her small size and
low speed ever made as much money for her owners. In the early days the
fare on her from Olympia to Seattle was $6.50; to Port Townsend, $12.30 and
to Victoria, $20.00. Horses and cattle paid $15.00 per head; sheep and hogs.
$2.50; freight from $5.00 to $10.00 by measurement. If a wagon were shipped
standing, the tongue left extended, the measurement was from tip of tongue to
end of reach ; and from deck to top of standards. No opportunity to turn an
honest penny was neglected.
She ran almost continuously for twelve years. She often had opposition and
fares for a time went down to almost nothing. It happened several times that
50 cents would pay one's way the full length of the run. In succession the
Enterprise, Alexandria, Josie McNear, New World and Wilson G. Hunt made a
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 109
vigorous fight for the husiness, but were one after the other bought off or run
off. The Anderson had made so much money for her owners that they were
practically invincible. Most of these boats came from the Columbia River and
in due course those bouglit by the Anderson's owners were sent back there or
to the Sacramento, where the Oregon Steam Navigation Company, or the Cali-
fornia Steam Navigation held a monopoly, and before the ensuing war was
ended the Anderson's owners had recouped any losses they had sustained by
temporary opposition on the Sound.
About 1870 she was relieved from regular service by Captain Finch's new
steamer, the Olympia. When the Starrs secured the mail contract, about 1872,
Captain Finch was subsidized to withdraw his steamers from Puget Sound and
was guaranteed the sum of $18,000 per annum to do so. The Anderson was
tied up at her dock in Olympia and kept there as a watchdog, while Captain
Finch or his attorneys collected $1,500 a month for four years. It was a regular
event for John R. Allen, later United States senator from the State of Washing-
ton, to be seen staggering under the weight of this sum, mostly in silver, on
his way to George A. Barnes' bank to deposit to the credit of Captain Finch.
About 1882, while lying at the wharf in Seattle, she sprung a leak and was
sunk, but was raised without much difficulty and the next year was given an
overhauling which disclosed the fact that her timbers were still perfectly sound.
This was quite generally commented on by the public press as confirmation of
claims made by shii)buildcrs of the value of fir timber for their uses. Capt.
Tom Wright, one of the numerous brothers of that name, put her on the run
from Seattle to New Westminster. He served as captain, E. W. Holmes, mate,
and Orion O. Denny, engineer.
Wright kept her going for two or three years, but in 1885 hecame involved
in difficulties with the customs authorities on a charge of carrying contraband
Chinamen, and whether guilty or not, the delays and expenses of the suit drove
him and the Anderson out of business.
liuil 1886 she remained the property of the Wrights and Capt. D. B. Finch,
but was then bought by the Washington Steamboat Company and later by the
Puget Sound & Alaska Steampship Company. The latter stored her away, and
to the best of my recollection she remained out of service until the "Klondike
rush" came, when she was again repaired after a fashion, and sent up north.
She was overtaken by disaster, and her bones found tlicir last resting jilace at
Dutch Harbor or somewhere in that vicinity.
During her long career on Puget Sound she was commanded by Capts. John
Fleming, Thomas Wright, D. B. Finch, Charles Clancy, Wm. J. Waitt, Daniel
Morrison, David Wallace, Mcintosh, Tarte, Holmes, Jackson and many others.
The tug Goliah was an old vessel when she went into service on the Sound
in 187 1, under command of Capt. William Ilayden. She was built about 184S
for \'an(Icrbilt and Webb for the towage business about New York Harbor. Soon
after she was sold. l)Ut before the new owners could get away on the trip around
the Horn for San Francisco the vessel was seized by the United States marshal.
One morning he waked to find the vessel and himself at sea. He was put ashore
at St. Thomas, where the tug was coaled and provisioned. She reached San
Francisco in safety and ran there some time in the passenger business and again
110 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
in the towing service for about a dozen years. In 1871 she was bought bj
Pope & Talbot and brought to Puget Sound.
After Captain Hayden left her she was in charge of Captains Noyes, McCoy,
Butler and S. D. Libby, under the latter for twelve years. Then came Captains
Selby, Clements and Williamson. Until the Tacoma Mill Company put its
powerful tug Tacoma into service the Goliah had towed most of the sailing
vessels from the straits into British Columbia waters as well as into Puget
Sotmd. She was laid up finally about 1894, after nearly a half century of con-
tinuous service.
The hull of a large stern-wheel steamer was built on Puget Sound in 1859
for the Eraser River and Puget Sound traffic, but was towed around to the
Columbia River and in due time put in opposition to the regular line on the
Cascade route. In a short time she was bought off, and then brought back to
the Sound and set to work carrying the mails between Olympia and \'ictoria
during the summer of 1859. then taken back to the Columbia. She was first
called the Julia Barclay, soon shortened to the Julia.
The steamer Ranger No. 2, a side-wheeler only 77 feet long, was built in
San Erancisco in 1853, and did a jobbing business there until 1859, when Capt.
John .S. Hill brought her to the Sound and put her into the same line of work.
Captain Hill was a pioneer of Seattle. He was married here to .\ddie Andrews
and they had two daughters and a son born here. He was one of the best known
men of his profession in the Northwest. At last account he was living in
Idaho. The name of the lioat was soon changed to Ranger. She continued in
service only two or three years, when her machinery was taken out and the hull
allowed to go to pieces.
The year 1859 was memorable on the Northwest coast. The gokl mines
on Eraser River attracted a great many thousand of miners from all parts of
the world. At one time there were 10,000 on the shores of Bellingham Bay
and other tens of thousands went to the mines by way of Victoria. The Pacific
Mail Steamship Company sent every old hulk it owned that could be spared
from its regular runs to the Sound with passengers, and every outside steamer
was put into the same service. Business was dull on the Sound, so at every
opportunity the mail steamer made a trip with a load of miners, regardless of
delays to the mail ser\ice. In fact, scarcely an issue of the local papers appeared
that did not have complaints about the way the mails were handled. The same
was true, more or less, down to the time of the completion of the railroad from
Kalama to Tacoma.
From early in August, 1859, when the Eliza Anderson began carrying the
mails until the appearance of the North Pacific, the Wrights and Finch ruled
local marine matters with a rod of iron. If an outsider secured the contract for
carrying the mails, he had to make a low bid to get it, and then rates of fare
and freight went down to almost nothing. The steamers under lease to the
contractor for carrying the mails would be purchased outright by the old com-
pany or subsidized to leave the route. The result was in every instance that
the mail contract fell into the hands of the old company, opposition ceased and
rates were again restored. In the meanwhile the public endured irregular mail
service and was burdened with almost prohibitory rates of fare and freight.
Down to i860 the writer has endeavored to give a brief sketch of every boat
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HISTORY OF SEATTI.L-: 111
engaged in service on the Sound distinct from the ocean-going craft tliat came
here from San Francisco occasionally. FVoni that date the number increased
rapidly.
Two steamers of local historic interest went into service on Puget Sound in
1863, the J. B. Lihliy and Mary \\'oodruft. They were the pioneers of Seattle's
mosquito fleet.
The Libhy was built by William Hammond for Capt. S. D. Libby, half owner,
and Charles H. Gorton and Lewis \'. W'yckoff, each owner of one-fourth inter-
est, and launched at Utsalady in 1862. She was named after the adopted son of
Captain Libby, who in later years became prominent in steamboat and tugboat
operations on the Sound, with his headquarters at Seattle and Port Townsend.
She was a side-wdieelcr with high pressure boilers. In 1865 she was taken to
Port Ludlow and cut in two about the middle and considerably lengthened.
She was among the earliest steamers to run between Seattle and Whatcom. In
1870, she was purchased by John SufFern, Orion O. Denny and John Blythe,
and jilaced upon the run to Bellingham P)ay, carrying the United States mails
and soon had built up a good business, .\mong her many captains were John
Suflfern, George F. Frye, Mark Norton, Samuel Jackson, Thomas Brannan,
James Smith, and John Blythe. Later Samuel Coulter was awarded the contract
for carrying the mails twice a week from Seattle by way of Coupeville, Cove-
land, Utsalady and La Conner to Bellingham Bay, and he made a lot of money
during his ownership of her. In 1880, Capt. Charles Low bought an interest in
her and ran her for a time, was succeeded by W'. F. Monroe in 1882, and he by
George Frj'e in 1883. A couple of years later she was secured by Capt. J. M.
I'rittain who changed her to a propeller and spent a lot of money on her and
then put her on the route between Seattle and Neah Bay. Capt. James Morgan
was her next owner, who in turn, sold her to Capt. Herbert F. Beecher in 1889.
For a few months she was operated in the Roche Harbor lime trade, but in
Xovembcr of that year she caught fire enroute for Port Townsend, and while
tiic bull was towed into port, her destruction was so complete that no attempt
was made to rebuild her. Her owners and officers included a large number of
men who later became prominent in the business aft'airs of Seattle, and several
of them are still residents here.
Capt. William Hammond, who constructed the Libby, was the leader among
the pioneer shii)builders in Seattle. He was born in Fairhaven, Mass., in 1823,
and when a young man learned the trade of naval architect and shipbuilder,
lie followed his ])rofession at New Bedford, N. Y., and other Atlantic ports
until 185S, when he came to Seattle. His first work of importance on the Sound
was the steamship John T. Wright which he constructed at Port Ludlow. In
addition to the isioneer steamer J. B. Libby he built the Evangel, Nellie, and a
large number of well known Puget Sound vessels. Hammond was appointed
inspector of hulls in Seattle in 1870, a position which he held for many years.
While in office he superintended the construction of the steamer George E.
Starr and on retiring from office set afloat a number of other steamers and schoon-
ers. He died in Seattle, January 9, 1891. Hammond's shijiyard and ways were
"u the beach where the Post Street power station is now.
The Mary Woodruff, another side-wheeler, was built at Meigs' shipyard in
I'ort Madison for John Swan and Jay E. Smith. Her machinery was taken from
112 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
the old steamer Ranger. When completed, she was put on the Whatcom route,
being the pioneer in the postal service between Seattle and Bellingham Bay.
After a short time, she was sold to Capt. John Cosgrove, who was familiarly-
known all over Puget Sound as "Humboldt Jack." For years previous, he had
made at least one round trip daily between Seattle and Port Madison carrying
passengers, mails and small articles of freight. The Maria, his sloop or
"plunger" as its type was called here in early days, under his first management
was never deterred from its daily trip by the most boisterous weather.
With the ]\Iary Woodruff, Captain Cosgrove widened his scope of operations
and he soon became a familiar figure in most Puget Sound ports. She carried
passengers and freight and often United States mails on several routes, and
between times, towed scows, logs and lumber vessels. He thus made a small for-
tune, and sold his steamer and retired to live ashore. About 1870 Capt. Henry
Smith was in charge of her and in 1872, Capt. James R. Williamson bought her
to use in connection*with his large sawmill that he had btiilt and was then operat-
ing about where the ferry boat now lands in West Seattle. He ran her some
eight or ten years and then having outlived her usefulness, she was beached
near the mill, her machinery taken out and the hull burned. Like the steamer
Libby, she had among her owners men who made and lost large fortunes, and
were active and prominent in business affairs in Seattle and adjacent ports.
Another pioneer shipbuilder of Seattle was Capt. J. F. T. Mitchell, who
during his time completed sixty-four vessels. He came to the Sound in 1862
and ran the schooner Leah from Seattle to Victoria for nine months, when he
began building steamers and sailing craft. He constructed the steamer Zephyr,
the first passenger stern-wheeler on the Soimd, and built the steamer George E.
Starr, with Captain Hammond as superintendent of construction. He also
completed the Xellie, Cassiar, Queen City. Willie, Seattle, Success and many
other famous vessels.
Two small stern-wheelers were constructed on the Sound in 1864, the Black
Diamond at Seattle and the Pioneer at Olympia. The Black Diamond was a
flat-bottomed boat seventy feet long built originally by Hill & Rabbeson as a
schooner, but afterwards fitted up with machinery for the White River trade.
According to Capt. Tom Brennan, "It was a deep water voyage from Seattle to
Olympia and when Hill, her first captain, set out on such a trip he went round
to bid everybody in town good-bye." Captain Hill continued jobbing about the
Sound with the vessel for several years and finally disposed of her to the Tacoma
Mill Company who in turn sold her to Capt. George W. Gove in August, 1876.
In 1869 and 1870 there were a lot of steamers on the Sound, the largest
being the Wilson G. Hunt, Favorite, Anderson and V'aruna, until the Olympia
was brought out from Xew York by Captain Finch and the Wrights. She was
a side-wheeler, 180 feet long, 30 feet beam and i25/> feet depth of hold, brig
rigged, and hull throughout of seasoned w'hite oak. She arrived at Olympia
December 3, 1S70, and made her first start on the Olympia-Victoria route on the
7th. She was by far the best steamer that had ever engaged in the service, hav-
ing been designed by men who understood its exact requirements.
During this period events were shaping that resulted in a revolution of marine
conditions on Puget Sound, so far as the transportation of mails and passengers
was concerned.
HISTORY OF SEATTLE lia
One J. T. Nash, possessed of small steamboat experience and little capital,
secured the mail contract from Olympia and way ports to \'ictoria for the next
four years. He chartered the \'aruna to carry the mail until he could build
a steamer for that purpose. The ways were put on the beach at Miller's
Point, a couple of miles below Olympia, and there the Alida was built. The
Starr brothers had grown wealthy at Portland in the tinners' business, and Nash,
having had an acquaintance with them, secured money from them to carry on
the work. Before it was done he had been compelled to turn over the boat and
mail contract to them for their protection and that of numerous other creditors.
Thus the Starrs, who had no previous knowledge of steamboating, got started
in a career where they made an immense fortune.
About the ist of July, 1870, the Alida was thought to be ready for service,
and the owners gave an excursion on her to Seattle. The number of guests was
large, and the vessel so cranky that she came near capsizing several times dur-
ing the trip, and many old-timers to this day remember the dangers of the trip.
The Olympia was put on the run in opposition, and her speed and safety
^.Mubined attracted nearly all the travel. The Starrs felt this keenly and deter-
mined to have a boat that would be faster and run more cheaply than the
Olympia, so they let a contract to a boat-building firm in San I'rnncisco that
embodied these stipulations, among others, for the building of such a craft.
The steamer North Pacific was the result. She arrived at 01\nipia |une 24,
1871. Much interest was taken at Seattle and every port from Olympia to \'ic-
toria in the impending race. A short time before she was due to come around.
Johnson's Point Captain Finch went over to the high ground at West Olymjjia
with his ship's telescope and there awaited the appearance of the craft whose
speed and other sea-going qualities meant so much to him. Before she reached
the dock he knew she was faster than his own beautiful boat the Olympia.
However, he maintained a confident air and continued the existing opposition.
Xo good chance for a race offered until the return Irij:) from Victoria, June
27th. The North Pacific made the run from \'ictoria to Port Townsend in two
hours and forty-one minutes, some three or four minutes ahead of her ri\al.
Both parties soon reached the conviction that it was best to compromise. .\n
agreement was arrived at that is related elsewhere in the history of the l-lliza
Anderson. Later the Olympia was bought by Victorians and rechristened the
Princess Louise.
\\ hen the Starrs had gained full control of the situation they showed their
excellent good sense in not restoring the excessive rates that had theretofore
been in force at times of no opposition. A rate was adopted of S2.00 from
Olympia to Tacoma or Seattle; to Port Townsend, $3.50; to Victoria, $5.00;
meals, 75 cents; berths, $1 ; rooms from $2 to $5. Capt. Charles Clancey was
in charge of the North Pacific nearly all the time until the Starrs sold out to
the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company, and until the appearance of the
latter company's Alaskan and Olympian on the Sound the North Pacific was
the flagship and carried the broom at her masthead.
The New World, one of the finest steamers which had appeared on the Sound,
arrived at Olympia from the Columbia River in February, 1867, under com-
mand of Capt. Henry Winsor. After a brief period of warm competition with
the Eliza Anderson she was found too expensive to run and was i)urchased by
114 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
Captain Finch, who sent her hack to CaHfornia. Two stealers of Puget Sound
construction, the Ruby and the Chehalis, made their debut in the same year.
The Ruby was a small propellor, built at Snohomish City by Capt. H. H. Hyde,
who ran her between Seattle and Snohomish a short time, then sold her to
Meigs & Gawley who used her for years as a ferry boat between Port ^ladison
and Seattle. In 1879 she was sold to Dexter Horton & Co., and was afterward
used as a freight and jobbing steamer. She was finally purchased by \'ictoria
parties who registered her under the British flag.
The Chehalis was a small stern-wheeler built at Tumwater, in 1867, by H.
FI. Hyde. After a disastrous experience on the Chehalis River she was operated
between Snohomish, Port Gamble and Port Ludlow. She was subsequently
sold to the coal company and used for towing barges on Lake ^^'ashington.
Later Capt. Hiram Olney ran her on the Seattle and Olympia route. She did
good service until Xovember, 1882, when she was caught in a gale while en
route from Snohomish to Seattle in command of Capt. \\'. F. Monroe, and
becoming unmanageable, was blown stern on to the beach near Ten ]Mile Point,
a total loss. Her cargo was strewn for ten miles along the shore.
Seattle's industries by the early "70s were keeping her mosquito fleet more
than busy. In 1870 the value of lumber cut in the vicinity of .Seattle had reached
S200.000 or double the amount of i860. The whaling and fishing industry was
becoming of substantial value to the Sound ports. The coal industry, though
still young, gave great promise of future development. In 1871 shipments from
coal mines near Seattle were only 4,918 tons; by 1876 104,556 tons were mined,
three-fourths of which was exported.
In the midst of this commercial activity steamboat building, which for a few
years had been slightly checked, started in with renewed vigor.
The steamer Zephyr, the first stern-wheeler on Puget Sound was built in
Seattle in 1871, by J. F. T. Mitchell for J. R. Robbins for the Seattle and
Olympia route ; Capt. Thomas .\. Wright was her master. Wright remained
with her until 1875. '^^'hen she was turned o\er to Capt. X. L. Rodgers. Two
years later she was sold by the sheriff to AL \'. B. Stacey for $3. 350.
The first steamboating of Capt. W. R. Ballard, the founder of the suburb of
Seattle which bears his name, was on the Zephyr. He became master of the
steamer in 1877. A few years later he purchased an interest in her and in 1883
became sole owner. He operated the Zephyr very profitably until 1887, when
he sold out to the Tacoma Mill Company and entered other pursuits with a
comfortable fortune made in the steamboat business. He became one of the
prominent capitalists of Seattle.
Another small stern-wheeler bearing the misleading name of Comet was
launched in Seattle, in 1.S71, by Capt. S. P. Randolph, the first man to operate
a steamer on Lake Washington. The Comet was for a long while on the ^^'hite
River trade and ran for several years on nearly all the routes out of Seattle.
She w-ent out of commission early in the '80s. Other small steamers built about
the same time w-ere the propellor Etta A\'hite, built at Freeport, now West
Seattle, and the small side-wheeler Clara, launched at Seattle for the Seattle
Coal & Transportation Company.
After the .Starrs had settled their differences with Finch & Wright, the Puget
Sound Steam Xa\igation Comjiany was incorporated at Olympia in 1871 "for the
X -T^
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I
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 115
pur])Ose of navigating the waters of Pugct Sound, Admiralty Inlet, Straits of
Juan de Fuca, Pacific Ocean and all of Washington." The officers were: J.
N. Goodwin, president; Marshall Blinn, vice president; E. A. Starr, secretary
and treasurer; L. M. Starr, Cyrus Walker, E. S. Smith, J. W. Sprague, J. B.
Montgomery and O. F. Gerrish, directors.
Seattle's increasing importance as the shipping center of the Sound was recog-
nized in the same year when the city was made the headquarters of a govern-
ment inspection district which included all of Puget Sound. Capt. William
i lamniond was appointed the first inspector of hulls, and Isaac Parker, the first
inspector of hoilers. Hammond was later succeeded by Capt. Henry Morgan.
On March 22, 1873, the Merchants Transportation Company was organized at
I ilympia with a capitalization of $100,000. Seattle was represented on the board
of trustees by J. R. Robbins, T. A. Wright and T. S. Russell. Other trustees
were James S. Lawson, R. G. O'Brien, S. W. Percival and B. B. Tuttle of
Olympia; D. C. H. Rothschild of Port Townsend, and John Latham of Stcila-
coom. A steamer was secured by the new organization, wliicli raised a slight
disturbance on Starr's mail line though the opposition was sinall. By 1S74
Captain Starr had perfected his organization until with Finch and Wright he
controlled nearly all of the available steam craft on the Sound. This fleet included
the steamers Olympia, Xorth Pacific, Alida, Tsabcl. Eliza .\nderson, Wilson G.
Hunt and Otter.
The discovery of gold in the Stikene and in the Cassiar country initiated
a boom in steamboating in 1874. In addition the wheat fields of Washington
and Oregon were producing crops which needed more vessels to handle them.
The output of the coal mines in the vicinity of Seattle, the lumber and fish trade
were steadily increasing. A number of small steamers were built at Seattle
during the year, the best known of them being the Addie, constructed at the foot
of Cherry Street. In 1875 she was taken to Lake Washington to tow barges
for the Newcastle Coal Company, remaining there until the railroad was com-
pleted, when she was taken back and operated in the jobbing trade by Capt. Mark
Norton.
T. W. Lake began the construction of boats in Seattle in 1874. Llis first
product was the steamer Fannie Lake, a fine stern-wheeler built for Diggs &
True, who ojjcrated her in the White River trade. The following year he built
the tug Hope and was active for many years in the construction of steamers in
Seattle.
The number of seamen who were granted licenses indicated that the marine
business was increasing by leaps and bounds. Shipbuilding had already passed
the experimental stage, and in 1874-75 a specialty was made of sailing vessels,
a considerable number of which were built to handle the coal trade. Hall
Bros, ship yards added several fine vessels to the fleet, the two-masted schoon-
ers .\nne Lyle, Cassie Hayward, Ida Schnauer, La Geronde anrl American Girl;
the three-masted schooners Emma Utter and Wm. L. Beebe.
On July 21, 1875, the Kate Flickenger, the first three-masted vessel built in
Seattle, was launched from Bclltown. She was built at a cost of $30,000 under
the direction of Capt. S. J. Gilman and was partly owned in San Francisco.
She was employed in the coasting trade.
In the summer of 1875 the harbor at Seattle assumed a busier appearance
116 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
than ever before. At one time there were nine sea-going vessels in port. Three
of them toaded with coal. from the Newcastle mines, four from the Renton mines
and one from the Talbot mine. Two loaded with lumber. On no previous
occasion had there ever been more than seven sea-going vessels in the harbor
at one time. The business activity and bustle around the wharves was very-
noticeable and indicated a thrifty and profitable business. A short time before
the ship Alaska carried away an aggregate vi 2,200 tons of coal and two schoon-
ers loaded with building stone arrived. Seattle at this date claimed to be more
important commercially than any other place on the Pacific Coast except San
Francisco and f-'ortland. Eleven steamers were serving the traveling public. In
addition there were many tugs and steamers of the mill companies here almost
daily, carrying passengers as well as freight.
The increasing business on the Puget Sound steamboat routes in 1876 opened
the field for some of the surplus steamers of the Columbia and Willamette fleet.
The steamer Annie Stewart was purchased in May by Capt. L. M. Starr, was
brought to Seattle in June and on September ist carried the first daily mail
from Tacoma to Seattle.
About the same time the Puget Sound Transportation Company was incor-
porated at Olympia with Thomas Macleay. president ; A. li. Steele, secretary
and treasurer, and J. G. Parker, manager.
The company liuilt the Messenger and operated her on the Seattle route
three trips a week. The first run was made on December 17, 1S76, Capt. J. G.
Parker in command. She was a well built steamer and handled an immense
amount of business in the early days. The Parker Bros, handled her for many
years. She was destroyed by fire at Tacoma in 1894. Other steamers which
appeared in 1876 were the Hyack, the Minnie May and the Nellie. The most
pretentious of these was the Nellie, launched from Hammond's shipyard, Seattle,
July 22d, for Robbins, Wright & Stretch. She began running between Milton
and Seattle and afterwards worked on the Snohomish and Skagit routes.
The Minnie May was built for the Lake Washington trade by Capt. Wm.
Jensen. She began the run regularly as a ferry boat across the lake.
At Port Townsend Cajit. John C. Hornbeck launched the fine steamer Dis-
patch. She was later disposed of to Capt. J. N. Brittain who operated her for
several years. Brittain sold her to Morgan & Hastings of Port Townsend and
while in command of Capt. Dave Hill in 1889 she was burned to the water's
edge at Seattle.
The profits of steamboating in Seattle and the Sound were considerably les-
sened by fierce competition in 1877. The Puget .Sound Transportation Com-
pany's steamer Messenger was beginning to make it interesting for Starr's line,
with a 25 cent fare from Olympia and Tacoma to Seattle, with a free lunch
thrown in. Finally a compromise was eft'ected later in the year by which Starr
received a subsidy of $500 a month to withdraw the Otter from the Upper
Sound route, giving the owners of the Zephyr and Messenger full swing except
on that part of the Sound where Captain Brittain had the mail contract. Brit-,
tain's line at this time included the steamers Teaser, Dispatch and Comet.
But by far the most important event for Seattle, in 1877, was the organiza-
tion of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company which today continues to be one of
Seattle's largest shipping concerns. The company was successor to the Goodall
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 117
iS: Perkins steamship line and was organized wilh Charles Goodall, president ;
John Rosenfeld, vice president; Geo. C. Perkins, treasurer, and Edwin Goodall,
secretary. Its original fleet included the side-wheel steamships Mohongo, Orizaba,
Senator and Ancon ; the propellers, Los Angeles, San Luis, Santa Cruz, Mon-
terey, Gypsy, Donald, Salinas, Idaho, Vincent and Constantine.
The steamer Josephine, a stern-wheeler of about eighty tons burden, was set
afloat at Seattle, in 1878, and a week later the Gem was launched from an
adjoining yard. By a singular coincidence both steamers met their fate five
years later at nearly the same time. The Gem was luiilt for Capt. George W.
Gove who used her mostly for towing. She was destroyed by fire off Applctree
Cove, February 7, 1883, when five people lost their lives. The Josephine was
constructed for the Skagit River trade by J. W. Smith at Lake's Yard, North
Seattle. Her boiler exploded January 16, 1S83. killing eight people. The hull
was comparatively uninjured and was repaired in March and purchased by
.Mnr.in I brothers.
While I'uget Sound was not yet engaged in exporting wheat her foreign lum-
ber fleet in 1877 was as large as the Columbia River grain fleet. In the assess-
niciit roll for the year the value of the fleet owned l)y the mill companies was
given as ^5318,300. rei)resented by thirty-one vessels. During the year 1872
cargoes were sent from Seattle and other mill jrorts with sixty-five vessels engaged
in the trade.
The story of the years that followed is one of remarkable advancement and
steady expansion in Seattle's trade. An exporting business, which at first was
limited mostly to cargoes of lumber and coal, extended to grain export and all
the lines of general commerce with the world. Year after year Seattle's fleets
increased until the Queen City drew down the honors from Portland, which had
been recognized as the center of commerce in the Northwest.
I!y 1880, 40.000.000 feet of lumber were cut and in i8go, 200,000,000 feet
were being sawed at Seattle. The production of coal from the mines in the-
vicinity of Seattle by 1890 were 488,306 tons an<l the exports of coal by that
year had reached a value ai)i)roximately equal to the value of the lumber outinit
in 1888 when the first shijjnients of wheat, lumber and other products had
reaciu-d the sum of $3,803,337. The struggling pioneer hamlet of the early '50s
had becf)me a frontier town of 4,533 population in 1880. The year after the
great fire of 1889 it had become a city of 43.000 population. Year after year
new steamers and sailing vessels were added in Seattle's shipyards to meet the
growing demands. And at last, when the steamer I'orlland arrived from the
North with the first news of the Klondike strike, Seattle was prepared to take
advantage of the good fortune which sent her name to every corner of the
world.
The story of how Tacoma was located as the terminus of the Northern Pacific
Raiiroaid, and of how that coqjoration used every means within its reach to put
Seattle off the map as a center of trade, is told in another chapter. In 1880
Seattle found itself in a position where it had to fight for every inch to main-
tam its supremacy over Tacoma as the shipping center of Puget Sound. The
Northern Pacific, in the midst of its financial difficulties, had found time to
make it as uncomfortable as possible. .Anyone going from this city to Portland
had to stay over night in Tacoma, both going and coming, as the Northern Pacific
lis HISTORY OF SEATTLE
controlled the steamers on the Sound and arranged their schedules with a view
of forcing every possible port no matter how small, in favor of Tacoma, the
city owned by the officers of the company.
In 1880 the Xorthern I'acitic built its first vessel, the steamer Frederick K.
Billings.
The ne.xt year, when Henry \'illard became president of the Xorthern Pacific,
the Pacific Coast Steamship Company sold to the Mllard Syndicate the steam-
ships Eureka, Idaho, Dakota, State of California. Alexander Duncan, Senator,
Orizaba, Ancon, Los Angeles and the Queen of the Pacific.
The Oregon Railway & Na\igation Company, which had secured practical con-
trol of transportation on the Columbia and \Mllamette rivers, turned its atten-
tion to Puget Sound the same year and in May purchased the Starr line of
steamers including the Xorth Pacific, George E. Starr, Annie Stewart, Isabel,
Alida and Otter. The company at once reinforced this fleet with the Welcome,
which was sent from the Columbia in tow of the Tacoma.
The completion of the railroad from Portland up the Columbia River by the
Oregon Railway & Xavigation Company, in 1882, left several surplus steamers
on the Columbia and Willamette rivers withottt employment. The development
of the Puget Sound country was proceeding with giant strides and offered a
field for several idle steamers. The first of the fleet to arrive was the Idaho,
which came around in February. She was followed by the City of Ouincy, in
Jtme, the Washington, in Septemljer, the Emma Hayward, in October and the
Gazelle, in November. The incorporation of the Washington Steamboat Com-
pany at Utsalady was completed about the same time with D. B. Jackson as
president; D. S. Jacobs, secretary; Hiram J. Olney, manager. The company
started business with the Daisy, Nellie and City of Ouincy and later the Wash-
ington. From this small beginning grew the Puget Sound & Alaska Steamship
Company. The Washington was placed on the Bellingham Bay route, and the
Oregon Railway & Xavigation Company started the \\'elcome after her making
a rate of 50 cents for freight and passengers from Seattle.
One of the most important events for Seattle in the year 1883 was the organ-
ization of the Canadian Pacific Xavigation Company, Limited. This transaction,
which came with the approaching completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway, was
a consolidation of Commodore John Irving's pioneer line and the Hudson's Bay
Company's line. The company took charge of the steamers R. P. Rithet, Prin-
cess Louise, William Irving, Western Slope, Enterprise, Reliance, Otter, Maude
and Gertrude. Later it added the Yosemite, then one of the fastest steamers
in northwestern waters. The company built up an excellent trade with Seattle
and the coast as far north as Alaska. The old fleet was succeeded by elegant
modern steamers imtil the company has become one of the most powerful in the
Seattle trade. j '
Lumber and coal from the Seattle district supplied an immense fleet of sail- i
ing vessels in this year. Among the new vessels launched here were the schoon- ' ;
ers Dora, Bluhm, Rosalind, Corona, Carrie B. Lake and barkentine Skagit. \ ^
The Canadian Pacific Navigation Company encountered spirited opposition | i
in 1884 with the incorporation of the Peoples Steam Xavigation Company, ]
incorporated in May with a capital stock of $100,000. The new company pur- |
chased the old steamer Amelia, built in 1863.
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 119
The Pacific Navigation Company was organized in May of the same year at
Tacoma and engaged Capt. J. J. Holland to construct the stern-wheeler, Skagit
Chief, for the local mail route between Tacoma and Seattle.
A large number of steam and sailing craft came into existence in Seattle in
ii<c'>8 and the Iuni!)er and coal trade gave eniployniont to the greatest iiumhcr
of vessels which had yet appeared.
In spite of the persistent attempt to shut Seattle off in favor of Tacoma, the
traffic in fa\or of the city which was made the object of attack was apparent from
the customs records of June i6th. Of the seventy vessels which were loading at
Sound Ports on that day Seattle claimed seventeen with a total tonnage of 22,993,
compared with eight in Tacoma with a tonnage of only 9,113. The vessels at
Seattle were loading coal. Of those at Tacoma four were loading coal and four
lumber.
On December 24, 1S88, the first ferry boat to run regularly between Seattle
and West Seattle made her maiden trip. She was called the City of Seattle and
was a rebuilt boat of the West Seattle Land & Improvement Company. Other
steamers added to the Seattle fleet were the Delta, E. W. Purdy, J. I"-. Boyden.
Halys and Jayhawker.
On September 17, 1889, the Puget Sound & Alaska Steamship Company,
successor of the Washington Steamboat Company was organized with head-
quarters at Utsalad}'. The stockholders were D. B. Jackson and Watson C.
Squire of Seattle; Charles H. Prescott, Isaac W. Anderson and George Brown
of Tacoma ; Colgate Hoyt and J. M. Bookman of New York. As in the old cor-
poration Jackson was the prime mover. Believing that his fleet was inadequate
he went East and purchased tin- Hudson River Steamer City of Kingston .ind
placed an order for a sister ship, the City of Seattle.
At Tacoma, the Pacific Navigation Com])any launched the stern-wheel
steamer. State of Washington, which made her trial trip from Tacoma to Seattle
in one hour, thirty-five minutes, breaking all jjrexious records. At Tacoma,
also Nelson Beiniett constructed the stern-wheeler, Fairhaven, to run on the
Bellingham Bay route.
The year 1890 brought about a radical change in steamboating on Puget
Sound. It brought an addition of fully a million dollars' worth of steamers to
Soutid waters, and it established once for all Seattle's supremacy as the com-
mercial center of Puget Sound.
W ith the first of the year came the arrival of the two fine new steamers of
the Puget Sound & Alaska Steamship Company, the City of Kingston and the
City of Seattle. The City of Kingston, built at Wilmington. Delaware, was
brought through the Straits of Magellan in sixty-one days and began running
on the Sound March 13th. Her sister shi|), built at Philadelphia, under orders
from D. B. Jackson, at a cost of $225,000, came to Seattle from the East a little
later.
.Now. when Tacoma and ( )lympia were making an active bid to attract from
Seattle the rich commerce the mosquito fleet was bringing to and from the farms
on the neighboring rivers, John Leary came to the aid of his city by organiz-
ing a steamboat company and building from his own resources a handsome
steamer ;it that time by long t)dds the most ambitious craft of its kind on Puget
ra. I- i
120 HISTORY OF SEATTLE ,
Sound. He called it the Bailey Gatzert out of compliment to his friend who also ' '
played his part in the building of Seattle.
The Seattle Steam Navigation & Transportation Company was incorporated \
at Seattle, May 31st, by John Leary, Jacob Forth, lulward Xeufekler, W. R.
Ballard and H. G. Struve, w'ith capital stock of $500,000. The Bailey ( latzert, I
the finest stern-wheeler on the Stsund, was launched at Salmon Bay, Xovember
22(\. from the shipyard of John J. Holland, in the presence of more than a thou-
sand enthusiastic people of Seattle. She was 20<S feet long, 32 feet beam and |
had engines of 1,300 horse power. She cost Lear)' $125,000 but she dro\e the |
competing craft from the seas and maintained Seattle's prestige. i
The stern-wheeler Greyhound, which became the property of the Seattle iv
Tacoma Navigation Company, also appeared on the Sound the same year, .'^^lie
was built almost exclusively for passenger traffic and showed remarkable speed,
indulging in some lively races on the Tacoma-Seattle rotite.
The trade on Lake Washington had developed to such an e.xtent by 1890 j
that Capt. Charles Kraft built the fine twin-screw propeller Mary Kraft for the |
traffic at a cost of $13,000. llut in September, 1891, she was burned to the water's !
edge. The City of Latona was another lake boat, built in 1890, for the Lake ^
Union trade. <
The Snoqualmie, the first fire boat in the Northwest, was also launched at ,'
Seattle in 1890. j|;
The Columbia River & Puget -Sound Navigation Company w-as the first of j
a number of enterprises which were organized on Puget Sound in 1891. The ]
company was incorporated at Seattle, in February, with U. B. Scott, president ; |
John Leary, vice president ; L. B. Seeley, second vice president ; E. \\'. Creighton, I
secretary and treasurer; E. A, Seeley and Z. J. Hatch. It absorbed the steam-
ers Bailey Gatzert, Fleetwood and Telephone and built the new steamer Flyer. ,
The Bailey Gatzert was sent around to run on the Columbia and Astoria route.
The business of Puget Sound was handled by the steamers Fleetwood and
Flyer, the latter being the fastest propeller constructed in the Northwest thus far.
Capt. Harry Struve, of Seattle, was the first in command and handled her on
the Tacoma and .Seattle route. The entire upper works of the Flyer were
destroyed by fire in 1892, but were rebuilt with larger and finer cabins. She
reappeared on the route again in June, 1892, making four round trips a day
between .Seattle and Tacoma at a speed of twenty-eight miles in an hour and
a half.
The Seattle and Tacoma Navigation Company was incorporated October
31, 1891, by Henry Carstens, Claude Troupe and Frank W. Goodhue, purchas-
ing the steamer Greyhound from Captain Troupe.
In 1894 Capt. D. B. Jackson followed his former maritime successes, the
Washington Steamboat Company and the Puget Sound & Alaska Steamship
Company, with the Northwestern Steamship Company, securing the Rosalie,
George E. Starr and the Idaho. The first board of directors was composed of
D. B. Jackson, C. F. Clapp, A. A. Denny, R. H. Denny, N. H. Latimer, David
Gilmore and D. K. Howard. The object of the company was to carry on steam-
boating independent of any railroad, but in harmony with all of them. All of
the company's steamers continued to enjoy good business.
After Seattle had made itself sure of its own supremacy on Puget .Sound
■f.
•J.
X
-;i ;
HISTORY OF SEATTI.1-: 121
waters and followiiit; tlu' (kljiiilc connection of Scatlle witli ihc worlil liy ilic
atlvent of the (ireat Northern railway, came a jieriod of financial <le])ression
which bore hard upon the city. It began in 1893 and with each succeeding
year the load became heavier until by 1897 ''ic city's builders were almost ready
10 give u|) the struggle. '1 lun t)iit of the \orth crinic the Portland with the news
of gold.
The news found ."-icatlU- ready to make most of lier fortune and l)ring pros-
jjcrity to herself. How the big men of the city brought the riili Alaska trade
here is a story which deserves a chapter of its own.
CHAPTER VI ■ -
COAL MIXES AND COAL AHNLXG J
I
The student, seeking the underlying causes for the growth of Seattle from a I
small, although important, piling and lumber camp into the present magnificent j
city, the metropolis of the North-Pacific countrj' and the leading shipping point ',
of the entire Western Coast of America, soon discovers that coal and transpor- j
tation have contributed no small part toward this success. The town on Elliott i
Bay struggled along for some twenty years before coal really became a factor ,
in its growth and at the end of that time was of very little more importance than '
half a dozen other lumber towns on the Sound. ;
The citizens of Seattle had from the first hoped that their town was to take j
the lead of all others in the territory and this hope, it seemed, would be realized 1
through the building of the Northern Pacific. However, when that road an- '■
nounced its intention of making Tacoma the terminus, this move would no doubt !
have put an end to the growth of Seattle for many years had not at the same
time the King County coal fields begun to attract the attention of outside cap-
italists who had seen the ships arrive at the wharves of San Francisco loaded
down with the best grade of coal yet discovered on the coast.
The casual reader, perusing the history of the industry, is at once struck
with the peculiar fact that from the time of the first discovery of coal by Doctor
Bigelow in 1853, to the commencement of the real development of the industry,
a period of some twenty years elapsed during which little was done toward gath-
ering in the wealth which nature had placed under the hills of this county. This
too at a time when the settlement was greatly in need of some great permanent
stabilizing industry. The people knew the coal was there, thev also knew that
its mining would mean growth and prosperity and wealth ; but this coal was
back in the hills where it would be necessary to build roads and trams over
which to bring it to salt water where ships could be loaded.
Efforts were made to interest San Francisco capital in the enterprise, but
these plans, after progressing to the hopeful stage, would fail. Some of the
causes of this failure were to be found right here at home — certain people always
making an unfavorable report upon the projects for which money was desired.
Another thing which retarded development was the discovery of the Mount
Diablo field in California just at a time when work was really getting under
way in King County. Although the Mount Diablo coal was of low grade, the
proximity of the fields to San Francisco gave it a big advantage over the
higher grade King County product. Blount Diablo furnished San Francisco 206,-
255 tons of coal in 1874, while Seattle sold but 9,027 tons on that market. In
1876 the Mount Diablo output was reduced to 108,078 tons and Seattle sold
05,314 tons to San Francisco buyers, this too, in spite of a strong clique of Cali-
fornia capitalists who, realizing the possibilities tied up in the King County
122
HISTORY OI' SEATTLE 12.1
coal field, were determined to prevent its development if possible; or, failing in
this, to hold up that development until their own city could firmly establish her-
self as the commercial center of the Pacific Coast of America.
Between the San Francisco clique and the Northern Pacific, the growth of
Seattle was retarded. Coal, however, happens to be a commodity which does
not deteriorate so long as it is left in the ground — and Seattle waited until she
became strong enough to force development.
When the people of Seattle, on that ]May day of 1873, started in to build a
railroad across the mountains, they hoped to solve two of the big problems
which then confronted the city and prevented its rapid growth. One of these
was connections by rail with the outside world ; the other was quicker and cheaper
means of bringing coal from the mines to salt water. By the end of the year
1875 ^'i*^ mines at Renton were able to ship their coal by rail and a short time
after the road had reached the Newcastle mine and had made available the vast
quantity sture*! in those rich hills.
The coal road did not stop there but pushed on up the Cedar River, reached
iiUo the Ravensdale — Black Diamond — Franklin field where other rich beds
were discovered and opened during the decade following 1880.
Fortunes have been made out of King County coal, but the usual fate of
the ])ioncer discoverer is seen in the history of the mines — most of the wealth
jjroduced went to the men who later obtained possession of them and, because
of their money, were able to do the development work — the original locater being
forced to step aside and see others reap the benefit of his early toil.
I'rom the earliest days of the white man in the country, coal was known to
exist in Western Washington. Doctor Tolmie, Hudson's Bay factor at I-'ort
Xis(|ually. rcjiorls having found coal on the Cowlitz River in 1S33, and savs tiie
Indians often brought specimens from the hills toward Mount Rainier during
the early days; but the exact date of its discover)' is not known.
Coal mining in the state may be said to date from 1848 when small outcro])-
pings of lignite were worked to some extent along the banks of the Cowlitz.
I'ioncer explorers who went up the rivers during the early '50s, kept their eyes
0])en for jjossible coal discoveries, and rcjjorted outcrop])ing beds in various
])arts of the country. In 1851 Ca])tain Tattle, while hunting timber for the
Hudson's Bay Company, discovered the vein of coal underlying the i)resent City
of Hellingham. .-\s this coal mine presented no difficult transportation prolilem
it was soon opened, and for some twenty-five years was a producer. The qual-
ity was very low, and when, in 1878. the mine became flooded with water follow-
ing a lire, it was given up and has remained closed ever since. It was from this
mine that the first cargoes of coal were shipped from the Puget Sound district
to San Francisco.
The King County coal fields were discovered by Dr. M. lligelow. who while
learing land on his donation claim on Black River, not far from the present
southern limits of Seattle, accidentally uncovered a bed of coal in 1853. The
mine was oi)ened by Bigelow, Fanjoy and Eaton, the two latter being killeil
in the Yakima \'alley during the Indian war of 1855-56. The mine was worked
in a small way, and, it is said, one schooner load was sent to San Francisco
where it sold for $30 jjer ton. The demand froiu the California market was
so great that Doctor Bigelow was offered $24,000 for the mine, an offer he
124 lllSTURY OF SEATTLE
could not accept because at this time the property was bonded to Capt. Wilhani
Webster for $20,000. The Indian war put an end to operations at this mine,
which was not reopened at the close of hostilities.
E. B. .Andrews came out of the Squak \'alley in the fall of 1862 carrying on
his back a flour sack of coal which he had dug out of the hillside above the
present Town of Issaquah. Taking the coal to the blacksmith shop of W. W.
Perkins, Andrews asked the blacksmith to give the coal a test in his forge and
see if it was any good. Perkins did so, finding it satisfactory as fuel. He and
Andrews formed a working partnership and during the winter of 1862-63
they took out several loads which, given a test by the government steamer Shu-
brick, was found to be a good grade of steam producing coal. Like all the
pioneer coal mine operators, Andrews and Perkins found that the development
of their mine and the transportation of its ]iroduct to market required more
capital than they could command, so the property remained undeveloped until
the completion of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railroad in 4888.
The Seattle Gazette for August 11, 1863, says that Andrews had opened
three veins, one above the other, within a distance of one-fourth mile up the
mountain side and that these veins ranged from 12 to 20 feet in thickness.
Workmen were reported to be engaged in opening a road from the mines to
Lake .*>animamish, also that the coal was to be hauled to the lake and then
shipped on barges to Seattle by way of the Lake Sammamish, Lake Washing-
ton, Black and Duwamish River route. In December H. liutler had become
interested in the mine to the e.xtent of inducing San Francisco capitalists to come
to Seattle and investigate the jjroposition. These men, Craig, Aiken and Bigley,
\isited the mine and reported "a bed of coal unsurpassed by anything of the kind
in any part of the world."'
In the fall of 1863 Edwin Richardson was surveying out a township on the
eastern side of Lake Washington when he accidentally discovered a bed of coal
on the north bank of what has since been known as Coal Creek. At that time
coal was riot considered as a mineral by the United States Government, and coal
lands were subject to entry under the pre-emption laws. With the announcement
of the new discovery at Coal Creek prospectors were soon in the district and had
filed on a number of claims. Among these were Exlwin Richardson, Ira Woodin,
Finley Campbell, William Perkins, P. H. Lewis, Josiah Settle, C. B. Bagley and
others. With two districts being developed in the county, Seattle now commenced
to "talk coal" in earnest. The Gazette printed maps of the coal fields, and active
development commenced.
While the pioneer coal mine owners were men without large bank accounts,
they did have the physical strength to go at the development work with pick and
shovel, which they did. The work moved slowly for the first few years, but in
1865-66 the people of Seattle commenced to realize that they had great wealth
in the coal mines right at their doors and that development work must be hurried
along. Rev. George F. Whitworth, a man who had had considerable experience
in eastern coal mining regions, became interested in the matter and moved from
Olympia to Seattle in 1866. He, together with Rev. Daniel Bagley, P. H. Lewis,
John Ross and Selucius Garfielde, organized and incorporated the Lake Washing-
ton Coal Company, which company opened the first tunnel on the hillside above
Coal Creek and brought out some of the coal, it being carried out in sacks.
y.
t
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 125
The United States Revenue cutter Lincoln was in the harbor at this lime
and some of this coal was given to the captain with a request that he give it a
trial. One of the amusing things about this test is that the captain reported
the new coal created too much heat and came near melting down the smoke stacks
of his vessel. This may have been hard on smoke stacks but it was great news
for the owners of the mines and they were so much encouraged with the report
that they at once put men to work on a road from the lake shore to the mines.
A light draft barge was built and arrangements were completed for moving
the coal to* the bay by way of Black River. The coal was brought down the
road with wagons, loaded on the barge and started for Seattle.
The future looked bright to the mine owners, but the barge grounded in the
shallow waters of lllack River and caused trouble. The coal was finally landed
I in Hinds, Stone & Company's dock and was advertised for sale at $8.00 per ton.
This firm had recently constructed a wharf at the rear of their store on the
west side of First .Avenue South, midway between Washington and Mn'm streets,
and had built up quite a shipping center there. The customs officers seized the
barge because it was operating in salt water without a license — a little matter of
detail which the coal barons had overlooked. Peace was arranged upon the
payment of a fine and the barge went back after more coal, which was in great
demand. Handicapped by a lack of funds the mine owners realized they had
a ver>- hard problem to solve. There was lots of money in coal, they had the
coal, but they did not have the capital with which to build the roads, barges,
cars and tugs necessary to trans|)ort that coal to ihe an.xiously waiting market.
Realizing that the (le\elopnient of its mines was a task requiring more money
than its stockholders could command, ihr Lake Washington Coal Company, in
the sjjring of 1868, entered into an agreement with Ca[>t. C. F. Winsor for the
sale of the property. Captain Winsor, it was understood, was acting for .San
Francisco parties who had large capital to invest in the Seattle coal fields. After
a long summer of inactivity the officials of the company learned that he was
merely a broker who had tried to make a fat fee out of the sale, but had over-
loaded the deal with commissions and could not induce Jiis jjcople to invest.
During the sunmicr word was received in Seattle that Captain Winsor had
come to the .Sound and that his Ijoat was then at Olympia discharging cargo.
.\s Seattle was not at that time visited by this line of steamers, and the company
wished to know what the captain was doing with regard to the sale, it was
decided to send a party out to see him. Rev. (ieorge F. Whitworth. P. H. Lewis
and C. P.. liagley accordingly rowed across the bay to Alki, where a fire was
built and i)rei)arations made to intercei)t Cajjtain Winsor's boat when it came
along during the night. The boat was late in getting away from 01ym])ia and it
was near morning before it was seen coming down the .Sounrl on its way to San
I'rancisco. The steamer was held while the j)arty discussed the coal question,
which goes to show that schedules were somewhat elastic in those days. In San
I'rancisco some interest was awakened in the King County coal fields, and T. A.
I'dake. a young engineer, was sent to the Sound in the summer of iSTiS, with
instructions to make an investigation of the field. 1 '.lake's report, whicii was
never published, shows him to have been a very far sighted o'oserver. In speak-
ing of the Coal Creek (Newcastle) field he says: "The lower one alone of
these three be<ls will probably furnish a greater mass of good coal in a given
126 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
length and breadth than any mine yet worked on the Pacific Coast of America.
Jt will not be easy to overestimate the future importance of the Seattle coal held
to the commercial and productive interests of the Pacific Coast ; notwithstanding
the heavy otitlay which will be reqtiired to open llie mines upon a proper scale,
and to put the coal in the market."
Blake's report was filed away ; the Seattle people were to be allowed to
develop their mines without the assistance of California capital. Seattle people
were accustomed to having their projects turned down by outsiders, and they also
knew how to take one of these rejected projects and make it successful; so they
organized a new mining company under the name of the Seattle Coal Company,
incorporated February i, 1S70, and at the same time a handling company under
ihe name of the Seattle Coal and Transportation Company, the latter to have
charge of delivering the output from the mine at Newcastle to the ships on
lllliott Uay. The Seattle Coal Company succeeded the old Lake Washington
Company, the main stockholders being Reul Robinson, Amos Hurst, Albro M.
Pringle, Martin L. Chamberlain, Edwin Fells, Thomas Flannagan, George H.
Greer, A. N. Merrick, George F. Whitworth and C. B. Bagley. This corpora-
tion bought the interest of the old company, except that of Lewis and Ross, and
now owned the 480 acres comprising the claims of Edwin Richardson, Josiah
Settle and C. B. Bagley. There were 10,000 shares of stock, the value of which
was placed at $1,000,000.
'J"he market for its product open, this product tested and approved, its mines
in workable shape with tunnels run and output guaranteed, the new owners felt
sure of success, provided the transportation problem could be solved. It was
decided to move the coal through Lakes Union and Washington by barges
carrying the cars, which would be run over tram roads to be built between the
lakes and also from the south end of Lake Union to the bunkers to be erected
at the foot of Pike Street. The transportation company, composed of Robinson,
Hurst and Peter Bartell, started work on this line in the spring of 1871, and
every man who wanted to work was given a chance at railroad building. There
were no steam shovels in those days and the road builders went at the job with
pick and shovel and wheelbarrow — btit they finished the road and moved coal
over it for many years.
The cars were loaded with coal in the mine, let down the long inclined tram
to Lake Washington, where they started on the first part of their barge trip.
At Union Bay they were moved from the barge to the portage tram, over which
they were hauled to Lake Union to be again loaded onto a barge for a trip to
the south end of the lake, where they were again on the tram rails bound for
the bunkers at the foot of Pike Street. These tram rails were six inches wide,
made of wood and surfaced with strap iron. The car wheels were spread out
so as to reduce wear, as each car had a capacity of two tons. The coal was
handled eleven times in its trip from mine to bunker, the transporting cost
amounting to about $5.00 per ton. The company spent $25,000 in preparing
to handle the coal, and after several months of operation sold out to Charles D.
Shattuck and S. Dinsmore, of San Francisco, who in turn sold the business,
after having made several improvements, to Osgood & Remington, who operated
the line until 1880, when it, together with the Seattle & Walla Walla Railroad,
y.
J
4
■i
I
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 127
iwjscd under the coiurol of Henry Villard and the Oregon ]ni])ro\cnKiit
Company.
For two years this railroad was operated without a franchise from the city
council, that body approving the franchise ordinance, which was Ordinance No.
55. on May 7, 1874. Almost two years later the Seattle Coal & Transportation
Company was granted a right of way for the line which had then been in
operation for four years. The right of way was granted in Ordinance \"o. 85,
approved by the council January 25, 1876. These were the first railroad
ordinances ever passed by Seattle, and to the fifth council, composed of Jolm
Collins, mayor, and John Leary, Robert Abrams, J. S. Anderson, Isaiah Waddell,
James McKinley and William Meydenbauer, councilmcn, belongs the honor of
passing Ordinance No. 55, while the seventh council, which approved the right
of way ordinance, was composed of Bailey Gatzert, mayor; Benjamin Mur])hy,
G. W. Hall, Josiah Settle, Isaiah Waddell, J. \<. Robbins, J. H. Hall and
John Leary.
While under the management of Dinsmore the first railway excursion ever
run in the Puget Sound country was conducted over the line from the I'ike
Street bunkers to Lake Union. The locomotive, called "The Bodie," was brought
up from San Francisco early in the year 1872. Upon its arrival the company
issued an invitation to everybody to come and take a ride. Nearly everybody
in Seattle had worked to build the road and now they were to have a free ride
jjehind the first locomotive to toot its whistle amid the dark recesses of a I'uget
Sound forest. In reporting the excursion the Intelligencer of March 25, 1872,
says:
"Friday last was decidedly a holiday in this city, owing to the op])ortunity
afforded everyone to indulge in the novelty of a free ride behind the first loco-
motive that ever whistled and snorted and dashed through the dense forests
surrounding the waters of Puget Sound. Business in town was not exactly
suspended, but it might very near as w-ell have been, as an excursion on Dins-
more's Railroad, connecting Union Lake with the Sound, with its constantly
ileparting and returning train of cars during the day, seemed uppermost in the
minds of all, and pretty much monopolized every other consideration." 'jhc
locomotive and its eight new coal cars were kept moving from 11 :oo A. M. until
everybody in town had had a ride at about 5:00 P. M., the roimd tri]i being
made in about half an hour.
By the end of May the com|)any had finished its lung trestle to deep water anil
^liips were receiving their coal direct from the cars into which it had been
loaded at the mine. This reduced the cost of handling and by the end of Sep-
tember the sixty men employed in the mines and the fifteen in the transportation
department were turning froin 75 to 100 tons of coal daily into the bunkers
and ships at the foot of Pike Street. The company was operating ninety-two
cars, with more under construction, had just finished the construction of twenty-
five houses at the mine and was preparing to greatly increase the output.
The first cargo of Newcastle coal to be carried away from Seattle consisted
of 405 tons, which was shipped to San Francisco on board the Bark Moncynick
in the year 1870. The Intelligencer in the early part of the year 1880 gives the
following figures covering coal exports in tons from Seattle for the previous
ten year period: 1871. 4,918: 1872, 14,830; 1873, 13.572; 1874, 9.027: 1875,
128 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
70,157; 1876, 104,556; 1877, 112,734; 1878, 128,582; 1879, 132,263. Of this
790.639 tons the Renton Mine had suppHed 33,419 tons, while the Talbot had
furnished 23,426 tons. Some idea of the importance of the Newcastle mine
may be obtained when it is remembered that all the rest of this coal had been
dug out of its beds. During the month of December, 1879, the following
vessels loaded at Seattle coal bunkers : The ships Eldorado, Alaska, Two
Brothers; Bark J. 1). Bell; Barkentine Tam ( J'Shanter, and the schooners
Excelsior and Reporter. The greater part of this exported coal went to San
iM'ancisco. not to exceed fifteen thousand tons being divided between other ports,
one of which was Honolulu.
The trestle work and bunkers of the Seattle Coal & Transportation Comi)any
were the most prominent objects on the water front in 1877. These works
represented an investment of $30,000 and extended into the bay a distance of
800 feet. On June i6th, while the \\'estern Shore and \\'ashington Libby were
lying at the chutes loading coal, the entire structure suddenly fell into the bay,
teredoes having eaten oft the piles which about eleven months before had been
driven into the mud at the bottom of the bay. Although the bunkers contained
some 1,450 tons of coal at the time, the boats escaped with minor injuries.
From 1880, until 1887, the mine was a heavy producer, the output running
from 118,742 tons in 1883 to 231,816 in 1885.
By the end of the year 1883 these mines were producing 55 per cent of the
total coal produced in the territory and 22 per cent of the total for the Pacific
Coast. The output for 1890 was 159,524 tons. .Annual production continued
well above the 100,000 ton mark until 1900, when the mine was closed down
and remained unproductive for several years. It is again in the producing
class, being credited with 244,778 tons for the year 1914. It is the deepest coal
mine in the state and has in all things justified the report of Blake; also that
of (joodycar, who, in 1873. wrote: "They were, both of them, beautiful beds
to work. Their thickness was good ; their dip was right ; their roofs and floors
good; there were no faults; their coal itself was good and hard and clean; there
was no pumping or hoisting, and hardly any timbering was needed."
Labor troubles in 1886 reduced the output to 22,453 tons, and in 1887 the
hoisting works at the mouth of the mine caught fire. This fire spread into the
mine, where it burned for some months, necessitating the closing down of the
works. .-\t that time the mine was producing from 150 to 200 tons a day,
demand was strong and prices were high, coal selling at the Seattle docks for
$5.00 per ton. a price $1.00 per ton higher than had been obtained at any time
during the previous ten years. Notwithstanding the labor troubles and fires
the output of the Newcastle Mine had reached the grand total of 1,740,000 tons
l)y the end of the year 1887.
On January 24. 1867, the Territorial Legislature passed an act incorporating
the Coal Creek Road Company and giving it authority to build a rail or tram
road from a point on Lake Washington, near the outlet of Coal Creek, to a
point about three miles eastward in section 27, township 24 north, range 5 east
of the Willamette meridian. The act gave the company the right to appropriate
a strip of land 100 feet wide for the entire length of the proposed road, together
with such lands as it might need for warehouses at terminals, and provided
that no other road should be laid out within fifty feet. The company, composed
HISTORY OF SEATTLE 129
of \\ illiam \\ . I'erkins, John Denny, II. L. \'esler, John J. McGilvra, C. J. Xoyes,
C'. 11. Hale and l.ewi.s C. Gunn, was incorporatctl with a capital stock of $5,000,
with the privilege of increasing the same to $500,000. 11. L. Vesler was presi-
dent and Gardner Kellogg secretary.
.Althoiifjh tlie Legislature had given this company what amounted to almost
an exclusive franchise up the Coal Creek \alley, which was so narrow in places
as 10 make the building of a rival line a physical impossibility, nothing was done
by the comijany until in August, wiien it advertised for bids for the construction
of the road. The date set for opening these bids was August 20th, but if any
were submitted they must ha\e been unsatisfactory, as the company again
ad\ertised, setting the date forward to Sc|)tembcr jd, witii tlic same result on
that date.
Nothing more was heard of ilu' (.unipaiiy until Xo\eniljer 4tli, when it held
a meeting of its stockholders. Tlie meeting was well attendee!, Vesler, Denny
and McGilvra being elected directors. The company spent considerable money
on the project and built its road to its Coal Creek claims, bringing out some
coal over the line, but the enterprise was not successful, and by the end of the
winter of 1867-68 was in bad financial condition. Its stockholders failed to
meet their payments, the Intelligencer of April 25 stating that the company
had sold six shares of stock for non-|)aynient of assessments. Something like
S^o.ooo had been spent and lost. During the latter ]iart of .\\m\ the road was
.^old to the same San Francisco parties who had bought the Lake Washington
I'oal Company properties, but as this afterward proved to be a brokerage deal
with no money behind it, the Coal Creek Road stockholders failed to realize
anything out of their investment.
I lad the money wasted on this project been invested in i)roviding iransport;i-
tiun from the Newcastle Mine to Seattle, the history of the coal industry in
King County would have been vastly different from what it is. It could have
remained in the ownership of Seattle i)eo[)le and would not have ])assed to San
l-rancisco capitalists, who later furnished the money for its development and
absorbed the profits. Seattle learned her lesson ; her people saw the danger
of dividing their forces and from that time onward were to be found united
whenever the task to be accom|)lishe(l was of sufficient magnitude to require
>uch united action.
In 1873 E. M. Smithers ])rospected the country around the present Town
iif Kenton. The streams showed signs of coal and Mr. Smithers was .satisfied
that beds of it existed in the neighborhood. After devoting considerable time
to the district he had about made up his mind to give up the search when he
found coal lloat in one of the small streams. Following this float up stream he
came to a place beyond which the coal seemed to be absent, so ascending the
bank he jirospected the hillside and found the bed with almost the first stroke of
his pick. Together with T. I!. Morris and C. D. Shattuck, Mr. Smithers
organized the Renton Coal Company, and the next year the mine became a
liroducing ])roi)erty. The company built two miles of railroad to Black River,
down which stream the coal was taken on barges to the Duwamish and to Seattle.
More railroad was built in 1873, and in 1876 the Seattle & Walla Walla reached
the mine and the water route was abandoned. The mine was ;i continuous
producer until 1886. when it was closed, remaining unproductise until i8<)5.
130 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
when the Renton Cooperative Coal Company obtained possession of the property
and opened up sonae new beds. The mine became the property of the Seattle
Electric Company in, 1901, since which time it has been one of the heavy pro-
ducers of the county.
The Denny-Renton Clay & Coal Company also operate a mine at Renton,
the output being consumed in the brick plant which the company owns at that
point.
The Patton JMine at Renton was opened in 1872, but has been abandoned.
Before the coming of the railroad the Renton and Talbot mines passed
through several years of transportation troubles, during which their Ijarges
turned turtle in the river or bay, their steamboats "snagged'' and the coal sank
into the water. On October 14, 1874, the Renton Coal Company launched
the little steamer Addie from the shipyard of \Mlliam Hammond at the foot
of Cherry Street. The launching of the Addie was celebrated by the firing of
cannon and the blowing of all the steam whistles which the town had at the
time. She measured 110 feet long, 19 feet beam, with a depth of hold of 4 feet
6 inches, and was placed under the command of Capt. H. H. Hyde. \\ ithin
a short time Hammond had finished a large barge and the Addie commenced
her work of towing coal. Several other barges were built for this service
during the fall, each of them being So feet long by 20 feet wide, with a capacity
of eighty tons.
Early in the spring of 1S74 John Collins. J. V. IMcXaught. John Leary and
M. Padden opened the Talbot Mine at Renton under the superintendency of the
latter. Development work was prosecuted with vigor and within a year the
company had driven a tunnel 16 feet wide and 11 feet high for a distance ot 450
feet, exposing a vein of coal ten feet across the face. They had obtained 320
acres of land and also had built a mile of railroad from the mine opening to the
landing on Black River, where coal bunkers were being erected.
The addition of the Renton and Talbot mines to those of the Newcastle
district at this time was a most fortunate circumstance, as Seattle coal opera-
tions were now able to furnish employment for many of the men wliich the
panic of 'y^ had made idle. Yesler made extensions to his wharf and the
Renton and Talbot companies built large bunkers there ; Wilson & Sons and
other iron workers were kept busy casting mine car wheels : the mills were
sawing lumber, and by the close of the year 1875 Seattle's water front was a
busy place, her citizens were at work and her merchants were doing a good
business, the holiday trade being placed at $20,000 that year. \\'ith the coming
of the railroad to the mines production increased, the facilities for handling
the product keeping pace with the output, so that by 1881, J. M. Colman. then
manager of the railroad, was able to load 1,200 tons of coal into the hold of a
vessel directly from the cars of the railway company. This was a great advantage
as it saved extra handling, breakage to the coal and enabled a ship to obtain
its cargo in much quicker time.
That transportation was the main problem confronting the coal mine operators
in King County is shown by the history of the Issaquah field. It was from this
mine that L. B. Andrews dug the first flour sack of really good coal ever
brought into Seattle. This was in 1863, but it was not until the building of
the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern, now the Northern Pacific's North Bend
o
g
X
■y.
V.
-n
V.
O
HISTORY OF Si:.\TTI.E i:Jl
braiuh, in 1888, that this iinnaensc body of coal was made available to the
market. The Seattle Coal & Iron Comi)any was organized in 1887, with a
cai)ital slock of $5,000,000. D. II. Gilnian was president; Henry Crawford,
vice president; J. A. Jameson, treasurer, and V. II. W'hitworth, manager. The
object of the company was the development of the Issaquah Mine, also the
iron prospects on the south fork of the Snoqualmie River near the sunimil.
which at that time were supposed to be of great value. Incidentally it may
be mentioned that the company hoped to become a big factor in the Pacific
Coast coal market, which was then controlled by the Oregon Improvement
Company and the Dunsmuir interests of \'ancouver Island.
The company owned 1.497 acres of coal land, with at least five veins running
from 6 to 14 feet in thickness, said to be one of the largest and richest
fields in the country. Development work was started on a scale which it
was thought would produce from 300 to 500 tons a day, and the first shipinents
were made in 1888. The iron mines proved to be prospects only, but Issaquah
has made good as a coal camp, averaging over one hundred thousand tons
annual production from 1892 to 1904, when it was closed. Under the man-
agement of the Superior Coal and Improxement Company the field was again
iipened in 1910. X'ery little coal was produced by this company. In 1912. it
gave place to the Issaquah & Superior Coal Mining Company, which has spent
a great deal of money in bringing the mines again into production. They yicUkd
8o,9<)4 tons in 1914.
The Black Diamond Coal Company was organized in California in 1864, and
through its development of the Ulack Diamond mines at Xortonville in the
.Mount Diablo district of Contra Costa County early arose to a position of
prominence in the industry on this coast. .-Ml through the early days promoters
of new projects went to California for their capital, and it was in this way that
the Black Diamond Company obtained possession of the coal mines at Coos
Bay. Ore., and P>ellingham Bay in Whatcom County. The company marketed
great quantities of coal from these three districts, but as the product of none of
them came up to that of the King County mines in ((uality. it was decided to
obtain a mine in this district.
r. B. Cornwall was at the head of the lUack Diamond ComjKmy when it
decided to enter the King County field in 1880, and it was under his direction
that \'iclor F.. Tull was sent north from San Francisco with instructions to
explore all the coal fields of. the Pugct Sound country with the object of dis-
covering new and better veins. The company desired to find a better coal
than the Newcastle, which at that time was the best coal being shipped from
King County. Tull began his work on the banks of the Skagit River; continu-
ing south many veins were examined, many samples sent to San Francisco for
testing, but it was not until July. 1880. that he discovered the great beds which
are known to underlie the Black Diamond-Franklin-Ravensdale field. The
small samples which Tull had sent to San Francisco were found to show such
high quality that the company sent P>. P.. Jones, a coal expert who had been
employed by the company at its Mount Diablo mines for some years, to Seattle
with instructions to continue the prospecting of the district. Jones' report of
wli.it he found was so favorable that the company at once put a crew of men
132 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
at work opening what has since been known ;is Aline Xo. 14 of the I '.kick
]3iamond grouj).
With plenty of money at its disposal the company pushed its dexeiopment
work along very rajjidly and in January, 1882, had a crew of men at work
building houses, cutting trails to the river and opening the vein of coal. On
April 7, 1882, Tull loaded a box of 800 pounds of Black Diamond coal on board
the Idaho for shipment to San I'Vancisco, the shipment being made that the
company might submit the coal to more exhaustive tests than had yet been given
it. These tests proved to be so satisfactory that President Cornwall decided
to i)ay the mines a visit. Morgan Morgans was at that time the company
superintendent at the Mount Diablo mines and Cornwall asked him to come to
King County with him. The two men left San Francisco on June 7, 1882,
on boanl the steamer State of California, and arrived in Seattle June 9th, by way
of .\storia, Kalama and Tacoma. The next day they obtained a wagon and
driver and set out for the mines. Some eight miles beyond Renton the driver
was sent back to Seattle and the men continued their trij) on horseback, arriving
at the mines at 7.00 P. M.
h'ollowing the visit of Cornwall and Morgans the ( )regun Improvement
Company sent Harry Whitworth and a crew of surveyors into the field for the
purpose of surveying an extension of the Columbia & Puget Sound Railroad
from Renton to the mines. The survey was completed in June anil within a
short time construction work was started on the new line. At this time King
County was producing sufficient coal to keep the steamships Willamette, Uma-
tilla and Walla Walla constantly engaged in carrying it to San Francisco, the
three boats averaging five trips per month and carrying 2,200 tons per trip,
Morgan Morgans was sent to King County in 1885 as general superintendent
(jf the P>lack Diamond mines, the first coal in anything like commercial quantities
being taken out in March of that year. The railroad had been finished, the
company had a large number of men employed and by the end of the year 43,868
tons of the new coal had been taken out of the ground. Jl was of high quality
and was soon very popular as a steam producing fuel. Morgans remained in
charge of the mines until they were acquired by the Pacific Coast Coal Company
in 1904, and under his direction other veins were opened in the district, which
took first place in King County coal production in 1895, a place which it has
held almost continuously since ; production, in tons, being as follows for the
years given: 1893, 115,028; njoo, 220,346; upS, 312,290; 1910, 403,741; i()i4,
234,028.
With the opening of the Black Diamond mines, and the completion of the
Cedar River extension in 1884, prospectors began searching for other veins of
coal in the district, and it was not long before it was found that the outcropping
discovered by Tull was in the center of a large coal field. Many prospects were
opened and some of them, notably those of Franklin, Ravensdale and Lawson,
have become heavy producers. Development work on the Franklin Mine was
begun during the summer of 1885, and was hurried along with such vigor that
the mine had produced 7,854 tons of coal by the end of the year. This mine
is located about three miles east of the Black Diamond mines, and, like them,
has been a heavy producer of high quality coal. It was opened by the Oregon
Improvement Company, later passing into the hands of the Pacific Coast Coal
HISTORY OF SI':.\TTLH i;5:{
Company. The field reached its lii<;hest ])ro(liK-lion in i(j(X) with i(>~,C)oo tons
taken out that year.
riie Ravensdale mines began shipping in 1900 under the management <ii' tlie
Leary Coal Company. The first year's output was 48,cxx) tons, which was
increased to 184,370 in 1895. The mine passed under the control of the North-
western Improvement Company, subsidiary to the Xorthcrn Pacific Railway,
and ])roduced 127,972 tons in 1914. An explosion destroyed the mine in Kji.s.
killing thirty-one workmen, since which lime it has been ahandoned by the
company.
Through the building of the Cedar River extension of the Columbia and
I'uget Sound Railway the mine at Cedar Mountain was develo])ed by the Cedar
.Mountain Coal Company, Samuel IJiair, president; Laurence Colman, secretary,
and I. .M. Colman, manager, .\lthough dc\eIo])menl work was not started until
in .\ugusl, 1884, the mine had produced 1,732 tons by the end of that year.
This property was never what could be called a heavy producer and after being
()])erated for some twenty years was closed because of faults.
During the lasf fifteen years several new mines have been o])ened in King
( ounty, some of which, like the Denny-Renton Clay & Coal C'om])any"s at
Taylor, the Grand Ridge east of Issaquah and others have ])roduced coal in com-
mercial quantities. King County production passed the million mark in 1902,
with 1,012,217 t*5"s to 'ts credit, and reached the maximum in 1907 with
1. 416.509 tons. The heavy increase in the ])roduction of California fuel oil
during the last few years has forced a curtailment of the coal output, with the
result that King County mines produced but 844.701 tons in 1913. ]\Iany heat
and power producing plants have substituted the new fuel for coal, but now that
oil prices are beginning to rise. King County mining jiromises to again take the
place in industry which nature, through her great generosity, intended it should
occui^y.
Xotwithstanding the fact that Washington coal mines are under very rigid
inspection laws, they ])roducc their share of accidents, and tragedies in which
men lose their lives and leave women as widows and children as orphans. James
Uagley, the present state inspector, as well as I). C. Hotting, his immediate pre-
decessor, grew to manhood in the local coal mining industry. ISoth these men
know the business from the inside and Iiotii of tluni .ire credited with doing
everything possible to safeguard the lives of the men who earn their li\ing in
the mines; but King CouiUy coal veins lie in very stee]) slopes, slopes which
constitute an added element of danger to tlic industry and ;ire the cause of ma-iy
accidents.
Coal mining has contributed its share of the comedy and melodrama, as well
as tragedy to the romance surrounding the development of the Puget Sound
country. Promising pros])ccts which filled their discoverers with high hopes
of financial success have often failed to produce the desired results. Rich
mines have been discovered only to l)e lost to the original locators; fortunes
have been lost and other fortunes won, and notwithstanding all the wealth which
has been taken out of the mines of King County during the last sixty years,
there remains today a body of coal of unknown vastness. which, as the years
roll along, will continue to i)roduce wealth, not oidy for the men who own and
operate the mines, but for the maiuif.iclurers. trans])ortalion lints and the army
13-t HISTORY OF SEATTLE
of people who depend upon these and allied industries for a living, and make
Seattle their home.
As has been shown, nearly all of the King County coal mines, early in their
history, passed into the control of foreign corporations, and it is a matter of
common repute that they are today owned by capitalists who live in San Fran-
cisco, Boston and other eastern cities, and even in Berlin, Germany. That these
foreign owners have considered the local mining industry from the standpoint
of dividends only is shown by the fact that these same dividends, or profits,
annually reach a sum greater than the amount paid in wages to King County
coal miners, the great majority of whom are citizens of foreign nations. It
would seem that with such vast quantities of coal as this county possesses the
importation of an outside product for the purpose of supplying local demand
would be unnecessary. These foreign owners, in order that they might declare
larger profits to their stockholders, placed a price upon the local product which
made these importations not only possible but highly profitable, and during the
last twenty-five years more than one fortune has been made through supplying
the people of this city with coal mined east of the Cascade ^lountains, in
British Columbia, and even in far away Australia.
By far the greater part of the profits made through the development of the
timber industry, with its saw and shingle mills, its sash, door, barrel and other
woodworking factories, have remained in the state where they have contributed to
the comfort and well being of the people. Such, however, is not true of King
County coal, one of the greatest assets Seattle ever possessed, and it is to be
regretted that its profits have gone to enrich other states and foreign nations,
while our own people, in their efforts to be loyal to the local product, have been
forced to pay these profits, knowing at the time the true condition existing
in the industry. The pioneer did not possess the capital required to develop
the mines. He could have held on to his claims, in which event the develop-
ment of the country would have been retarded ; but he sold, hoping the resultant
development would justify his sacrifice. For every hundred dollars invested by
the foreign purchasers of the mines, thousands have flowed, and continue to
flow, into their pockets ; all because the pioneer did not have, and could not
borrow, the capital required for paying the expenses of developing his claims.
CHAPTER VII
WASIIIXGTOX STATK LXINRRSITV
The act of Congress establishing Oregon Territory was approved August 14,
1S48. This law providefl for little more than setting the governmental machinery
in motion. Another law. apj^roved September 27, 1S50, created the oflice of
surveyor general, provided for surveys of public lands and the terms on which
settlers could secure title to these lands. Said act set aside sections sixteen and
thirty-six for common school purposes, and granted to the Territory of Oregon
tiie quantity of two townships of land therein to aid in the establishment of a
university in the territory in such manner as its Legislature might direct. The
Territorial Assembly of Oregon located the university at Marj\sville, I*"ebruary
1, 1851, during its second session; at its next session provided for the selection
of a university land commissioner and for the selection and sale of the university
lands. It will be seen that at this early date the law making body entertained
the view that these lands might be sold as well as selected. This became a
matter of importance in Washington about twenty years later. During the next
session boards of commissioners were named to select and sell these lands and
to erect the territorial university at Marysville on a site to be donated for that
purjjose.
1 lere our connection with the Oregon institution ceased, as Congress passed
a law establishing the Territory of Washington, approved March 2, 1853, includ-
ing all of that part of Oregon south of latitude 49 and north of the Columbia
Kiver from its mouth to latitude 46, thence in said latitude to the summit of the
Rocky Mountains, thence to latitude 49.
.\n act of Congress, approved July 17, 1854, provided that in lieu of the two
townships of land that had been granted to Oregon there should be reserved in
each of the territories of Oregon and Washington two townships of land to
be selected for university purposes, under the direction of the legislatures of
said territories.
In early territorial days the location of the public buildings was a matter
of importance to the several localities. The capitol, university, penitentiary and
insane asylum were "located" at almost every session of the Legislature which
then met each year. As there were no funds with which to erect buildings no
great damage was done.
Washington L'nivcrsity was no e.xception. January 29, 1855, it was located
at Seattle, with a branch at Roisfort, Lewis County, both institutions to be on
the same footing in all particulars. As the act of Congress reserved lands for
university purposes the Legislature held the view that one or two institutions
might receive benefits under the act. In January, 1858, the university was
changed from Seattle to Cowlitz I'arm Prairie, Lewis County, and under this
act the ])roceeds of both townships of land were to be applied for its sujiiiort
135
Vnl. 1-1(1
136 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
and eiulownicnt. It required a donation of ifio acres for a site. Xothing was
done under tliis act.
January ii, 1861, the act that resuUed in the building of the uni\ersity in
.Seattle was passed, authorizing the selection of said lands from the public
domain and the sale of the same at $1.50 per acre. Three commissioners were
appointed — Daniel Bagley, Edmund Carr and John Webster. P'ebruary 22,
1861, they met and organized in the auditor's little office that stood at the north-
west corner of Third Avenue and Yesler Way. Mr. Bagley was chosen president
of the board, and the entire management of the affairs of the university was
intrusted to him. At that "time nearly all the lands belonging to the Government
that had been surveyed in the Puget Sound region could be bought for $1.25
per acre, and most of the legislators who voted for the location of the university
and the sale of the lands did not believe they could be sold at 23 cents an acre
more than other lands just as good. The contracts for clearing the ten-acre
tract that had been given for the purjiose by .\rthur A. Denny, about 85/ acres,
and Charles C. Terry, about ij/j acres, had a clause in them that if it should
be found that money to pay for said clearing coulil not be realized out of the
sale of lands, those who did the clearing should takei their pay in lands at the
price named above. Prices for clearing ranged from $275 to $325 per acre, and
it cost about $3,000 for the ten acres. As the entire tract was worth at the time
perhaps $500, it will readily be seen how disproportionate to the value of timber
lands at that time was the cost of clearing the same. At this time, and for many
years after, lands along the shores of Lakes Union and Washington, now in
the city's limits, could be bought of the Government at $1.25 per acre, from the
university at $1.50, or could be taken for nothing by homestead entrv. The
Renton tract, the Squire tract, Kinnear tract and others of the most fashionable
residence parts of the city today were selected by Mr. Bagley and sold to
inirchasers at $1.50 j^er acre. In 1S64 John J. McGilvra "took up" his beautiful
home. Laurel Shade, it being Government land. From i860 down to as late
as 1870 many hundreds of acres of lands within from one to three miles of
Pioneer Place were bought at private entry for $1.25 per acre in depreciated
currency, that made the actual cost to the purchasers from 50 to 60 cents. The
Denny-F'uhrman tract cost about 50 cents an acre.
Early in 1861 it became apparent that sufficient funds would be obtained to
clear the land and erect the university buildings. The men who did the actual
work of clearing became more or less prominent in the alifairs of the citv in later
years. They were Henry A. Atkins. Lewis V. Wyckofif, Lyman B. Andrews,
Clarence B. Bagley, Hillory Butler, Ira Woodin, Edwin Richardson, Lemuel
Holgate, John Pike and his son Harvey, John Carr, James Crow, James Hunt,
D. Parmlee and O. Dudley.
The stone for the foundation was brought from a quarry near Port (Orchard.
The main building and the home for the president and a dormitory or boarding
house were all practically completed by August i, 1862.
The fir lumber came mostly from Ports Madison and Gamble, though Vesler's
mill supplied a small part of it. The finishing wood, outside and inside, was all
white pine brought from the mills at Seabeck. The cement, paints, oils, glass
and hardware came from Victoria, and the heavy import duty and steamboat
charges often more than doubled the first cost. The brick and lime were brought
o
•z.
HISTORY OI' SF. ATTI.R 137
Ijv Cai)t. Henry Roedcr from Relliiigham Bay. Most of the work was done by
contract, but was separated into many parts. The contractors and workmen were
as follows: Hauling of materials, Thomas fiercer, L. V. Wyckoff, Hillory
i:>utler and Josiah Settle; surveying ten-acre tract and giving levels and location
stakes for buildings, Edwin Richardson; architect, John Tike; putting up frame
and inclosing .same, Thomas S. Russell and John Pike ; stone foundation and
brick work, John Dodge, John T. Jordan and S. Thorndyke, and the last two
also did the plastering: window and door frames, Franklin .Matthias; making
columns and putting them in jjlace, A. P. DeLin and O. C. Shorey; flooring and
shingling, R. 11. Beatty, O. J. Carr. Josiah Settle and C. B. I'.agley; tin work,
Hugh McAleer (there was no plumbing done) ; painting, Harvey Pike, Jeff Hunt,
Charles Gorton, C. P.. Bagley and J. E. Clark; desks, D. C. Beaty, A. P. DeLin
and O. C. Shorey; blacksmithing, \\'illiam W. White; miscellaneous carpenter
work, Harry M. and \\'. B. Hitchcock, Martin Givler, X. DeLin, in addition to
most of the others named above. A large amount of miscellaneous work was
done by nearly all of the foregoing, and in addition were J. W. Johnson. David
' iraham, Richard King, George Austin, Albert I'inkham, J. C. Purcell, Charles
Harvey, James Kelley and five or six others.
The foregoing list is given for a double ])urpose. It is a part of the historical
record and it shows that in those days there were no drones nor men of leisure
in the community. .Ml who had not regular employment elsewhere went to
work with saw, plane, hammer, ax. pick, shovel or with whate\er he could licst
I urn his hand. Nothing was too laborious or too humble for them.
Kusiness being all on a coin basis led to an anomalous condition of affairs,
(onlracts were made on this basis and were usually observed, and it was a
^^ain on the character of any one for the rest of his life to "greenback" a
creditor, which was the usual name for paying a coin debt in "greenbacks," as
I 'nited States legal tender notes were called. All payments to county, state and
nation were made in paper money, except duties on foreign goods entered at
the custom houses. Postal, United States internal revenue and land office col-
lections were all in the same currency, as were all moneys collected in the courts.
If one went to buy land at r)lymi)ia, where, until recent years, was the only land
office on Puget Sound, he changed his coin into paper money for the purpose.
This was not foreseen when the first large contracts were made for the sale
nf university lands, and later, when some of the mill companies made ])ayments
in that kind of currency, it deranged the ])lans of tiie commissioners and made
trriuble in their accounts. All Mr. Bagley 's accounts were kc])t in coin, according
to the custom of tjie business men of the country. Should he receive .S240 for
a quarter section of land, he did not charge himself with that sum, but reduced
it to coin dollars at the current rate. H ])aper was 60 cents on the dollar, he
entered $144; if 50 cents, then $120; if only 40 cents, then it was only $96.
Later a committee was appointed by the Legislature, who were unfriendly to
Seattle, and mostly political enemies of Mr. Bagley, who made an examination
of his accounts and rendered a rejiort showing a large balance due from him to
ihe university fund, most of which was the difference between the coin value
and par value of the jKiper money he had been comiJcUed to take, and had used
in the curicnt transactions of the institution. .\ later committee of the Legisla-
ture made an exhaustive report and found $8 more due him than his own accounts
138 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
showed. At the time his connection was terminated with university affairs he
claimed a balance due him from its fund of a little more than $800, and $i,5CX)
unpaid salary from the territorial treasury. In time the regents of the institution
paid the former claim in full, and thirty years later he sued the state and recovered
a considerable part of his claim for salary.
He had for twenty years to suffer an unlimited storm of calumny and reproach
because of his connection with the university, but later received a full measure
of credit for the energy and business sagacity he displayed in obtaining the funds
to build with, and in the erection of the buildings themselves and setting the
educational machinery in motion, feeble and intermittent as was its action for
many succeeding years. He has often been called the "father of the university,"
and if such a title rightfully belongs to anyone it is due to him.
The old cash book kept by Mr. Bagley has ]\Iarch 16, 1861, for its earliest
date, and among the entries are many of interest sufficient to warrant their
mention here. Among the first is one of express charges on $60 from Olympia,
$1, and all through the book are similar charges of from four to ten times the
present rates. The fare for a round-trip to Olympia and return was $12; one
to Wincouxer on the Columbia River was $60. Cement was $7.50 per barrel,
lime ?3.50, finishing nails 10 cents per pound, and 2.480 pounds of window weights
cost $248. Wages were as about as now. only ten hours made the day. Lumber
was also about the same prices as at present. Tin work was very costly.
After the buildings were completed there were no funds that could legally
be used to carry on educational work, and for years the Legislature failed to
provide them. The population of the territory in 1S60 was less than twelve
thousand, and in 1870 less than twenty-four thousand. The great Civil war was
in progress, and while this region was not directly called upon for men or
money, business was stagnant and the ordinary expenses of the territory were
greater than its revenues and were met by the issue of warrants much depreciated
in actual value. Also, the ill feeling toward the institution, so pronounced
during the period of construction, was kept alive year after year.
In January, 18O2, $2,000 were appropriated from the university fund to pur-
chase books and philosophical apparatus, and provision was made to allow the
use of the interest on the remainder of the fund for educational purposes.
Not until 1877, more than fifteen years after educational work began in the
university building, was direct legislative aid extended to it. November 9th
of that year an appropriation of $1,500 for 1878, and the same amount for 1879,
was made from territorial funds for salaries only. At this session forty-five free
scholarships were provided for, to be apportioned among the several counties,
and entitling the holder to two years of free tuition of not less than nine months
each year, academic the first year and collegiate the second.
November, 1S79, provision was made for a salarj- allowance of $1,000 each
year in 1880 and 1881, and $500 .for philosophical apparatus.
During the years 1882 and 1883, the institution would have been compelled
to close but for the generosity of Henry \'illard, the most notable figure at that
period in the railroad affairs of this Northwest. He gave the sum of $4,000.
November, 1883, thirty-six free scholarships were ordered by the Legislature,
and appropriations were made for 1884 and 1885, $3,000 each year.
January, 1886, $10,000 were appropriated for salaries during the two years
HISTORY OF SEATTLE l;}9
of 1886 and 1S87, and each member of the Legislative Assembly might appoint
a bona fide resident of his district to a free scholarship. Six hundred dollars
were provided in addition for books and piiiloso|jhical and chemical apparatus.
The institution had now been in operation twenty-live years.
During this ([uarter century of constant struggle on the ]Kirt of all those con-
nected with the university as regents and instructors, there liad been several
jjeriods that it was of necessity closed. Ten jjresidcnts had jiresided over its
troublous destinies.
Sciiool was first o])ened in the university, Xoveniber 4, 1861, with .\sa S.
Mercer in charge. There was hut one schoolroom and alxjul thirty scholars in
attendance.
.Mr. Mercer had Ijeen graduated a year before and arrived in .Seattle in lime
to do considerable manual labor about the unixersity grounds during the summer
• if 1.%!. The school continued five months.
.Mrs. Ossian J. Carr taught a ])rivate school in the same room for three
months in 1862, May, June and July, with twenty- four children attending.
On the lOth day of (October of that year the second session of university
school was opened with Mr. Mercer, principal, and Mrs. \'. Calhoun, assistant.
.\lr. Mercer was called out of town several times during the wiiUer and Clarence
11. liagley i)resided in his place. Dillis 1'. Ward, another pioneer still living in
Seattle, occasionally acted as Mr. Mercer's assistant during the winter.
These first schools brought to Seattle a fair number of students from abroa<l.
' )lynipia sent five, namely: James B. Biles, Susan Isabella Biles, Edgar Bryan.
Augustus (ieary and Edwin .Austin. Victoria sent four — ( ieorge W. Little. John
McCrea, Ed Francis and .Mien hVancis. 'j'hey came from the country and ihe
camps, but, of course, the larger number were the youth of ."^cattle, .\mong
these was Sarah l-oretta, daughter of John Denny, who at her death five year.-,
ago left to the university $25,000 for fellowshi])s. The first white girl born in
."Seattle. Eugenie McConaha, was one of the ])ui)ils, and Orion O. Denny, the tirst
boy, was another. .\n official list of studeiUs is not accessible, but in addition
to those named it is known that these also atU-n(le(L -Margaret Lenora Denny,
Uolland II. Denny, Rebecca llorton, .Mice Mercer, (ieorge W. Harris, Sylvanus
C Harris, Robert G. Hays, Charles Hays, Zebedee M. Keller, James Hunt,
1-. L. .Andrews, Jane Wetmore, Birdsie Wetmore, l-"rank Wetmore, E. Inez
Denny. Madge Denny, Charles Tobin, Eindley Cam]jbell, Sarah Bonney, flertrude
r.oren. Mar)' Boren, Jose])h Crow. Martha Crow. Emma Russell. John 1'.. l.ibhy,
Levi Livingston, Christine Delin. .Xndrus l)tiiii, Eva Andrews, William R.
.\ndiews, Ed Harmon, I'red ^'nung, l-'rances Webster, Lewis Lost, Joim W.
Xeely, Louis McMillan, K. Weii)urn, Susie (jraham, William ( Jdell, SophroTiia
Humphrey, .\rthur Brownell, Thomas Winship, Edward Sanford I'ucklin and
Willi.am M. Belshaw. It is believed the fifty-eight named herein attended the
second Mercer school, and more than one-half of them the first. It is also
believed that it is a complete list of Mercer's second term pupils.
.Asa Shinn Mercer was bom near Princeton, 111., in 1838, and recei\ed his
early instruction in the schools of that town. In |8C)0 he graduated from bVimk-
lin College, at Xew .\thens, Ohio, .\lmost immediately he began preparations
to come west, n.iturally to .Seattle, wlure his eider brother. Thomas, was one
140 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
of its pioneers; also here were two other intluential citizens. Dexter Ilorton
and Daniel Bagley. who had known him from early childhood.
Arriving here in June, 1861, he set to work on the universit}' grounds at com-
mon labor until he got a job of surveying. His connection with the university
has already been set forth; and his connection with the "Mercer immigration"'
affairs in another chapter. From here he went to Oregon, later he was in
Texas, Colorado, \\'yoming, and elsewhere in the Middle West. He drifted
qiiite naturally into the newspaper business.
In 1890 he was sent to Chicago from Wyoming as one of the Columbian
commissioners, and until the great exposition opened in 1893 was the center
of a stormy period in Chicago. There was an organized plan on foot among
a lot of the most prominent men in Chicago to have thirty or forty acres of the
lake front filled just east of the Auditorium Hotel for the purpose of building
the best buildings in which to house the most attractive of the exhibits and
relegate the rest of it somewhere south, west or north of the city, they did not
much care. There was also well grounded suspicion that when the exposition
should close the promoters of the dual sites would be the beneficiaries from the
final disposition of the tract on the lake front. The Southern, Western and
Pacific Coast members of the commission desired a single site, and under the
leadership of Asa Shinn Mercer, formerly of Seattle, and Richard Mansfield
White, now of Seattle, they won a signal victory. The beautiful grounds at
Jackson Park were the result of this contest. The writer, also from Seattle,
is proud to remember that he took a humble jjart in the exciting contest while
it lasted. Soon after the close of the exposition Mercer nio\ed with his family
on a big ranch near the bad lands of Wyoming ami went to raising cattle and
promoting oil wells. At eighty he is still active, although he has nearly lost
his eyesight.
Beginning September 7. 1863, the university opened with William F. Barnard,
president, who came to Seattle from the Willamette University at Salem. r)re.
He was a native of Alassachusetts and had graduated from Dartmouth College
in 1858. In the advertisement announcing the ])roposed opening of the school,
tuition rates were given as follows: Primary department, jier quarter, S6.00 ;
academic, $8.00: collegiate, Sio.oo.
Mr. Barnard continued in charge of the uni\ersity until the close of the
spring term of 1866. In an older institution he would have been \aluable as
an educator, but he had no experience in pioneering ; he did not understand the
people of the West and their unconventional ways. Little true svmpathy and
affection between him and his pupils was established. Almost immediatelv
after he assumed control of the institution here he entered upon correspondence
with others seeking an engagement elsewhere.
Here is a verl:ial picture he gave of conditions in Seattle in a letter to another
institution of learning written shortly before he resigned the presidencv :
"Education throughout the Sound district is in ;m extremely backward condi-
tion ; as an illustration ; Not one of the misses attending the university, the
first quarter after our arrival, could accurately repeat the multiplication table.
Society is also greatly disorganized ; drunkenness, licentiousness, profanity, and
Sabbath desecration are the striking characteristics of our people, and of no
portion more than those at Seattle. Of course there are a few honorable
HISTORY OF SFATTI.I-: 141
exceptions. We have two distilleries, eleven drinking establishments, one bawdy
house, and at all the drinking establishments, as at our three hotels, gambling is
openly practiced ; and Sunday is no exception.
"These are the influences we have had to encounter in our efforts to build up
an institution of learning. I need not say it is discouraging and well nigh
hopeless."
-Mr. liarnard wrote the literal truth, but he made no effort to present the
bright side of the shield. At that period the description of his surroundings
iierc applied equally well to nearly every town and city on the Pacitic Coast,
and its exact parallel existed here for a full half century afterward.
In I ST/) he resigned the jjresidcncy and for the next two years held a deputy-
ship in the customs service at Port Townsend under Fred A. Willson, collector.
i-rom there he went to California, where he remained until his death in 1910.
Rev. George F. Whitworth, the pioneer of Presbyterianism in the Northwest,
came to Olympia in 1854. Probably no resident of Washington has left so
dee]) an im])ress upon public affairs of so wide range. By turns he was teacher,
editor, deputy surveyor, civil engineer, clerk in the Indian department, deputy
collector of customs, and at all times he was active in religious, moral, temperance
and educational work, not only in his own community, but throughout Washing-
ton. He was active in putting into operation the infant industries, particularly
coal mining. Twice he held the presidency of the university ; he served a term
in Thurston County as superintendent of public instruction and in his declining
years he founded an academy at Sumner in Pierce County, which later was moved
to Tacoma and named Whitworth College. This institution jjasscd through
many vicissitudes and was later moved to Spokane, where it bids fair to be a
school of importance.
During the summer of iMWi he was induced to accejit the jiresidency of the
university, and September ijlh of that year school was opened. Arrangements
had also been made by the public school directors for the scholars of the district
to attend the university.
George Frederick Uhitworth was born March 15, 1816, in the Town of
I'.oston, Lincolnshire, luigland. In li^^j the family came to the Lnited States
to live and settled at Terre Haute, Ind. He became a student at Hanover
College and was graduated in 1839.
Coming to the Pacific Coast in 1S53, he soon took up a donation claim near
Olympia, and at once engaged in ministerial and educational work there and in
nearly all parts of the Puget Sound country.
Me died in Seattle, October 6, 1907, after a brief illness.
President Whitworth advertised the continuation of school in tlic university
iKginning July 22. 1867, but it did not reopen. Sufficient encouragement was not
forthcoming. During all these lean years the university buildings, including
the ])resident's residence and the boarding house, w^ere used by those in charge
of the schools rent free, but the salaries had to come from tuition fees almost
entirely, and they offered little encouragement. In April, 1868, the regents
I>ublished in the newspapers of Washington, Oregon and California a i)roposi-
lion to lease the institution for a term of years. Tiuv said:
"The institution embraces ten acres of ground, well cleared and fenced ; the
university building proper, president's house, boarding house and outbuildings.
142 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
with a good supply of running water. It is pleasantly and healthfully situ-
ated in Seattle, W. T. I'roposition to lease it as a sectarian institution will not
be entertained."'
No satisfactory offer was received, and this time the institution remained
closed for two years. April 5, 1S69, the regents advertised in the Intelligencer
that "the institution will be permanently reopened on Monday the uth dav of
April, 1S69, under the charge of Prof. John II. Hall, assisted by such professors
and assistant teachers as may be required." Tuition per term of eleven weeks :
scientific department, $10.00; collegiate department, $12.00.
Air. Hall was a graduate of Yale College and a gentleman of fine attainments
and much e.xecutive ability. The fact that he was able to maintain iiimself for
three years proves that he must also have had considerable financial ability to
keep the institution open in the face of so many adverse influences, .\fter his
separation he taught schools in King and Tierce counties and later went into other
business. He died in Tacoma.
In the summer of 1872 Mr. Edgar K. Hill arrived from Ypsilanti, Mich., to
take up the duties of president. He was born in Berkeley, Ohio, in 1S45.
He had been recently gradtiated from the Michigan State Normal School when
the appointment of president was tendered him. His young bride accompanied
him and the two composed the faculty. For a term they had classes in Latin,
Greek, German and French, higher mathematics and down through the grammar
grade to the primary. At the beginning of the second year, all grades below
the sixth were abolished as they had been taken over by the public schools of
the city.
Early in 1S74 the university was again closed for lack of funds and Mr. and
Mrs. Hill removed to California. He taught schools in many cities of that state
during sixteen years' residence there. In 1890, he returned with his family to
Seattle and for several years taught in the city schools. During this period four
of his sons attended the university and three of them were graduated. Early
in the rush to the Alaskan gold fields he and his four sons joined the throng.
The father died and was buried there.
In 1874 Mr. F. H. Whitworth and Miss May Thayer took charge of the
university for a time.
Air. Whitworth has occupied many positions of responsibility during his
fifty years' residence in Seattle. He was born at New Albany, Ind., March 25,
1846, and was only seven years old when the family crossed the plains. He
attended the schools of Olympia until about 18(16. when he wenti to California
to enter upon a collegiate course, from which he was graduated four years
later.
When he resigned from the university, in 1875, he took up civil engineering
and in that capacity had much to do with local mining and railroad enterprises.
For several years, he and Mr. R. H. Thomson were associated together in busi-
ness, and after that, he and Mr. George F. Cotterill formed a partnership which
still continues.
It was not the good fortune of the writer to know Aliss May Thayer, but in
one of the university publications appear the following kindly words regarding
her:
"Miss Thayer deserves much credit as one who shared with the early
HISTORY UK SEATTLE 14^
presidents the joys and care of responsibility. She was a graduate of .Mount
Holyoke and before coming to Seattle had taught in the schools of Massachusetts
and New York. She came West in 1873 to become assistant teacher to rresidcnl
Hill.
"More than once her untiring efforts kept alive the feeble little school. When
nionev was lacking and classes in algebra and Latin had ceased to exist, Miss
Thavcr continued to occupy the building with her class of infants. During one
n\ these periods it became very lonely and bitterly cold in the great empty,
rhoing hall. I'riends advised her to .give up the school. lUit the brave woman,
Aith her tiny "university,' moved to an u])pcr room in the house of Mr. Thomas \V.
I'rosch. where she continued to teach amid more congenial surroundings."
In the spring (jf 1X75 Rev. tieorge I'. W liitworth. for the second time,
assumed the ])residency and continued until, on account of po\erty, the institu-
tion again closed with the Christmas term of 187''). During his incumbency
occurred the first graduation, that of Miss Clara McCarthy.
A militarv (le])artment was organized by him, also instruction, theoretical
and practical, in civil engineering was given during school hours and when he
(luld S])are the time outside U]30n the campus, ami during the long summer
davs out in the forests and in the mountains. He taught school as he preached,
because he loved humanity, and in spite of small pay and all sorts of discourage-
nu-nts he lefi his impress upon the affairs of the uni\ersily th.il continued for
many years after he had finally left it.
I'rof. Alexander J. Anderson was the next to become head of the university,
riu- fuiutr ni' the institution was more promising than ever before. The Legis-
lature had ajjpropriated $1,500 for 1878, and the same amount for 1879; also
provision had been made for free scholarships as noted elsewhere. Mr. Ander-
^<in was burn in Ireland of Scottish parentage about 1833. During his childhood,
the family came to the United Stales and settled in Illinois, lie was graduated
from Knox College, Galesburg, in 1856, and at once adopted teaching ;is his
profession, and continued that work in Illinois until 1869. Coming to the
Pacific Coast, he held the chair of mathematics in Pacific University at Forest
drove for a lime, then became ]jrinci])al of a high school in Portland, Ore. In
.'■^eptember, 1877, he opened a jjrivate school in the iniiversity. In b'cbruary,
1S78, he was elected president of the institution and conlinue(l in charge uiuil
I S82.
Including the additional .ittendance, by reason of the free scholarsiiips, the
lasses grew ia])idly and the number of teachers increased in ])ro])orlion. brom
-•eattle he ino\ed to Walla Walla, and there held ihe ])residency of Whitman
I ollege for ten years. Ill health then compelled him to give up active work.
Death finally came to his relief in Olympia, March 17, 1903. It was during
his connection with the university that Henry \illard came to its relief as noted
1 Isewhere.
.\ farewell reception was given Mr. and Mrs. .Anderson, July 18. 1882, at
the .Arlington Motel in this city. Henry G. Struve, president of the university,
presided and complimentary addresses were made by him and L. P. Smith,
John Leary, John F. Danion. Bailey Catzert and other city notables of that
l)eriod.
I'rof. Thomas Condon, of the University of Oregon, was next invited by the
144 HISTORY OF SEATTLE
regents to come to Seattle, but declined, and Prof. Leonard J. Powell was then
elected.
He had been ser\ing as superintendent of public instruction in Oregon and
resigned that position to come to Seattle. Plenary powers were given him to
organize a faculty and to prescribe a course of collegiate and academic instruc-
tion. His arrival in Seattle, July i8, 1882, is noted in the Chronicle.
The institution was reopened Wednesday, September 20th. Professor Powell
took charge of the mathematical department, and the other professors were given
assignments — Lee, literary; Hansee, Greek and Latin; Johnson, science; Swimm,
preparatory. Mrs. W. A. Md'herson was in charge of the primary classes.
Early in the Powell regime, a third year was added to the normal course;
laboratories were equipped, athletic and out-of-door sports encouraged, and in
1884, a department of military science and tactics re-established.
An interesting and in fact dramatic incident occurred in the fall of 1883,
which was recorded by Mrs. Villard in her book of memoirs. All old-timers
will remember the spectacular excursion planned and headed by Henry Villard
to bring a large party of distinguished gentlemen to witness the ceremonies
attendant upon driving the "golden spike'' that completed connection of the
eastern and western sections of the Northern Pacilic Railroad. Most of the
party came on to the Pacific Coast, and Seattle made extraordinary efforts to
entertain them. Steamers gaily decorated met them at the entrance to the bay ;
the streets from the wharf to the university were aflame with banners and bunting,
while at the university grounds a pavilion had been erected, festooned and
beautified.
Naturally Professor Powell took a prominent part in the exercises; also
Miss Nellie Powell delivered an address of welcome that attracted the attention
of the visitors and met with quite generous praise. She took occasion to grace-
fully refer to the generosity of Mr. \'illard to the institution a couple of years
earlier.
Professor Powell's health began to decline in 1S86, but he remained in charge
until after the graduation exercises of the class of 1887. Soon afterward his
body was taken to Lakeview Cemetery by his former students accompanied by a
large concourse of students and citizens of the city.
The ensuing fall Thomas \[. Gatch was chosen presitlent of Washington
University, and this time accepted the appointment. Twenty-five years earlier it
had been tendered to him and declined, and at that time, by reason of his recom-
mendation, it was given to William E. Piarnard. During all that time he had
Ijeen connected with educational institutions, mostly in Oregon, and nearly all the
time in full charge of them. The writer has an affectionate remembrance of
him iluring the early days of his connection with the Willamette Institute, where
he was then in charge of the classes in higher mathematics and Latin and Greek
languages. To him was permitted to close the educational work in the old
university building at P'oiu'th and Seneca and to reopen it on the new campus
that is today the pride of Seattle and of the State of Washington.
He resigned the presidency in 1895, but continued a year longer as professor
of political science, then returnetl to Oregon and became the president of its
agricultural college for another year. x-\fter sixty years, save one, of devotion
to educational work, he retired under the provisions of the Carnegie foundation.
HISTORY OF SliATTLE 145
lie and Mrs. Gatch then relumed to Seattle and he died liere April 22, 1913.
Mrs. ("latch has her home on Queen .\nne Hill near her dau{:jhter, Mrs. 1..
II. Wheeler, who was art instructor while her father was in charge of the
university.
Including the year 18^5, the number of graduates was sixty-nine, as follows.
The maiden names of the young ladies are enclosed in parentheses, viz. :
1876— Wilt, Clara (McCarthy). B. S.
,j<}<i_\\ayland. Helen I. (Hall), 15. S. ; Redtield, Edith (^Sanderson), B. S.
i}<g2 — Anderson. Louis P., A. B.. .\. M.; Colman, George A., 15. S. ; Judson,
George H., B. S. ; Kilbourne, Leila .\. (Shorey), B. S.
iJ>83 — Chipman, II. O., B. S. : Denny. Carrie V. (1 'aimer J, B. S.
1884— Olmstead. Anna F. (Sparling), B. S.. B. P.
1S83 — Camp. Hettie Louise (Greene), B. S. : Denunt. Louise M. (Root),
B. S. ; Meany, Edmond .Stephen, B. S.. M. S., M. L. ; I'iper, Charles \ancouver,
B. S., M. S. ; Huntington, John, B. S.. M. IX; \eazie, Agnes M. (Green),
B. S.
1886— Alvord, Elisha II., A. B. : Gormley, .Matthew 11., B. S. ; McElroy,
James F.. B. S., LL. B.; Pratt, E. Emma (Clark), A. B., A. M.
1887— .\dams. Florence M., A. B., A. M.; Bigclow, Edwin X'ictor, .\. B.,
A. M.; Drumheller, XeUie E. (Powell), A. B. ; McLennan, Anna (McDiarmid),
B. S.; Porter, James W. ; Powell. Edward T., B. S.
li-iSS — .Adams, Marion E.. B. S. ; Hines, .Annie V.. (Willard), B. S. ; Kinnear,
eharles .\.. I'.. S. ; Kuhn, Ida (Soule), B. S., M. S. ; Wakefield, Depalmer G.,
B. S.
i88i>— I'urher. l'"anny L. (Churchill). B. S. ; Gatch. Ruth, .\. B. ; Haw 
