Skip to main content

Full text of "History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos countries, comp. from the most authentic sources .."

See other formats 


ac  M.C 

979.5 

V/15h 

1204369 


^.Coovcouu.c.oH 


ALLEN  COUNTY  PUBLIC  LIBRARy 


3  1833  01103  6784 


^/^SL^,^£^'. 


'a^9ix^^ 


HISTORY 


Southern    Oregon, 

'— *y — '^ ^ 


RCKSON,  Josephine.  ..Doiiglss  Curry  anti  Cnos 


COUNTIES, 


Compiled  from  the  Most  Authentic  Sources. 


PUBLISHED    BY 


1884. 


PORTLAND,  OREGON  : 

I'RINTINC;    AND    LITIIOCIKAP IIING    HOUSE   OF   A.    G.    WALI.ING,    CORNER    IMRST    AND   ASH    STREET 


'Ugress,  in  tlie  j'C 
jin  of  Congress,  ( 


PREFACE.         12C43G9 

In  giving  these  pages  to  the  pnblic,  the  publisher  has  been  actuated  by  the  lauil- 
able  ambition  to  materially  aid  in  a  great  work — the  jjreservation  in  historical  form  or 
tlie  fast-fading  annals  of  Oregon.  The  history  of  this  great  state,  the  story  of  its 
struggles  and  triumphs,  has  never  been  written;  nor  can  it  be  until  the  annals  of  each 
section  have  been  carefully  gathered  and  recorded.  They  are  the  stones,  which,  set  in 
place  by  the  hand  of  a  skillful  builder,  make  the  complete  edifice.  To  gather  the  scat- 
tered threads  of  history  ere  they  fall  from  the  hands  of  those  who  have  spun  them,  and 
to  weave  them  into  a  complete  and  reliable  narrative,  is  the  arduous  task  the  publisher 
has  assumed;  and  to  do  this  he  has  undertaken  the  work  in  the  only  manner  l)y  which 
this  result  can  be  accomplished. 

No  portion  of  the  state  exceeds  in  importance  or  historical  interest  that  section  to 
which  the  pages  of  this  volume  are  specially  devoted.  The  counties  of  Douglas,  Jack- 
sou,  Josephine,  Coos  and  Curry,  usually  referred  to  under  the  title  of  "Southern 
Ol-egon,"  are  large,  populous  and  prosperous,  and  their  annals  constitute  one  of  the  most 
important  factors  in  the  history  of  Oregon. 

The  work  has  been  performed  by  a  corps  of  able  writers,  who  have  patiently 
examined  ever}'  source  of  information,  giving  sj^ecial  attention  to  drawing  out  the  tes- 
timony of  the  pioneers  and  actois  in  the  scenes  portrayed.  Every  volume  touch- 
ing upon  the  subject  has  been  carefully  perused,  the  state  and  county  records  have  been 
examined,  the  files  of  the  earliest  newspapers  of  the  state  have  been  searched,  pioneers 
have  been  interviewed  by  the  hundred,  not  only  those  now  living  in  Southern  Oregon, 
but  others  encountered  in  every  section  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  Pains  have  been  taken 
to  reconcile  as  nearly  as  possible  all  conflicting  statements,  and  to  do  this  the  compilers 
liave  interview  men  of  all  shades  of  opinion.  Whenever  possible,  disputetl  j^oints  have 
been  decided  by  reference  to  official  records  and  documents  and  the  contemporaneous 
accounts  in  the  newspapers.  It  is  upon  this  careful  investigation  of  all  original  sources 
of  information  that  this  volume  bases  its  claim  of  being  the  only  reliable  record  of  the 
events  of  which  it  speaks.  Everything  previously  written  on  these  subjects  has  been 
Init  personal  recollections,  valuable  to  be  sure,  but  incomplete,  or  was  prepared  for  the 
juirpose  of  attacking  or  defending  some  particular  person,  organization  or  theory,  and 
is  valuable,  not  as  history,  but  simply  as  evidence  from  which  history  may  be  compiled. 
The  task  has  been  an  arduous  one,  but  it  was  undertaken  with  a  full  realization  of  its 
diniculty,  and  has  been  conscientiously  performed.  That  no  errors  whatever  should 
be  committed  could  not  even  be  hoped  for;  but  their  very  scarcity  and  unimportant 
nature  are  evidences  of  the  general  accuracy  of  the  work. 

The  publisher  returns  his  sincere  thanks  for  the  encouragement  and  substantial 
aid  extended  by  the  state,  county  and  city  officials,  the  press,  and  the  intelligent  citizens 
generally.  With  these  remarks  he  submits  the  volume  to  the  thoughtful  perusal  of  the 
Pioneers,  the  sturdy  men  and  women  who  have  through  many  years  t)f  toil,  liiiitlship 
and  danger,  bravely  woven  the  tapestry  of  Oregon's  history. 

THE  PrBLlSlIEIJ. 

Portland,  Oregon,  May  lo,  18.SJ. 


ILLusTRA.TIo:^;^s. 


Applegate,  Hon.  Lindsay,   8 

Beekman,  Hon.  C.  C.   22S 

Drain,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hon.  Chas.  432 

Klippel,  Henry,  452 

Lane,  G^n.  Joseph,   frontis-piece. 


PORTKAITS. 

Lane,  Mrs.  Gen.  Joseph,    184 
McCall,  Gen.  J.  M.,  32 
Owens,  Hon.  J.  F.  W.,  412 
Ply  male,  W.  J..  68 
Reams,  Thos.  G.,    100 


Ross,  Gen.  John.  E.,    176 
Smilh,  Capt.  Thomas,   372 
Tolman,  Gen.  J.  C,   356 
T'Vault,  W.  G.,  296 
Tichenor,  Wm.,  472 


Agee,  Benj.  C,   12 
Aiken,  Andrew  G.,   16 
Alford,  Albert,  20 
Amy,  Haskell,   24 
Ashland— Bird's-eye,   352 
Ashland  Woolen  Mfg.  Co.,   28 
Barron,  H.  F.,   36 
Battle  Rock,  40 
BeallT.  F.  and  R.  V.,   44 
Blanco  Hotel,  48 
Booth,  John  O.,  52 
Brockway,  B.  B.,   56 
Brown,  H.  G.,  60 
Burnett,  Jas.  D.,   64 
Cape  Arago  Light,  496 
Cape  Blanco  Light,   72 
Cellers,  Joseph,   76 
Chapman,  John  H.,   80 
Constant,  Isaac,   84 
Coohdge,  Orlando,   88 
Court  House,  Roseburg,  96 
Court  House,  Jacksonville,  92 
Coquille  Jlill  and  Tug  Co.,  492 
Crater  Lake,    104 
DaMotta,  Philip,   108 
l>odge,  J.  R.,   112 
Eagle  Mills,   116 
Elkton  Mills,   120 
Emmitt,  John,   124 
FuUerton,  John,  128 
Ganiard,  O.  V.,   136 
Gardiner  Mill  Co.,   132 
Gardner,  T.  K.,   140 
Gates,  Henry,   144 
Gazley,  J.  F.,   148 
Gillam,  Thos.  J.,   152 
Grubb,  John  L.,   156 


VIEWS. 

Gurney,  Mrs.  E.,   160 
Gurney  Bros.,   164 
Hanley,  M.,   172 
Ish,  Mrs.  Jacob,    180 
Jacksonville — Bird's-eye,   360 
Jones,  Henry,    iSS 
Jones,  Joseph,    192 
Lane's  (Gen.  Jos.)  Tomb,   196 
Leeds,  Capt.  J.  B.,  200 
Levens,  D.  A.,   204 
Love  &  Hanley,    16S 
Magruder,  Constantine,   208 
ilap — Coos  and  Curry  Counties,  464 

— Douglas  County,   384 

— Jackson  County,   30S 

— ^Josephine  County,  444 
Marshlield — Bird's-eye,  484 
Marshfield  Mills,   212 
Marshfield  Church  and  Academy,  488 
Mark,  Frederick,   220 
Masonic  Temple,  Ashland,   224 
Mathes,  Wm.  E.,  232 
McClellan,  D.  C,  236 
McClendon,  C.  C,  240 
Mingus,  Conrad,  244 
Moon  &  Stanley,  248 
Murphy,  John,  252 
Jlyer,  W.  C,  256 
Nasburg  &  Hirst,   260 
Nichols,  I.  B.,  264 
Nickell,  Charles,   216 
Ocean  House,  268 
O.&C.R.R.— Rock  Cut,  272 

—Tunnel  No.  8,  276 
—S.  from  Tunnel  No.  8,  2S0 
— Grave  Creek  Crossing,  2S4 
Palmer,  P.  P.,   288 


Patterson,  Joshua,   292 

Payne,  C.  T.,  300 

Pershbaker,  A.,   304 

Pelton  Bros.,   3S8 

Pickens,  E.  P.,   312 

Plymale,  F.  M.,   316 

Presbyterian  Church,  Jacksonville,   320 

Price,  J.  W.,   324 

Rast,  John,   328 

Riddle,  T.  S.,   332 

Roseburg — Bird's-eye,   408 

Roseburg  Public  School,   336 

Ross,  John  E.,   340 

Sawyers,  Andrew,   348 

Sheffield,  James  F.,  364 

Shrum,  Thomas,   368 

Simpson  Bros.,   500 

Singleton,  T.  J.,  376 

Singleton,  W.   B.,  380 

Stanton,  H.  C,   392 

Stearnes,  D.  W.,  396 

Sutherlin,  Fendel,   400 

Taylor,  S.  C,  404 

Thomas,  Richard,  42S 

Thornton,  S.  I.,  416 

"  Times"  Printing  House,   216 

Walker,  J.  P.,  420 

Walton  &  Hayes,  424 

Ward,  Frazier,   436 

Weaver,  J.  W.,   440 

Welker,  Daniel,  448 

Williams,  L.  L.,  Monument,   456 

WiUis,  Rev.  W.  A.,  460 

Woodruff,  A.  H.,  468 

Wright,  J.  W.,   476 

Wrisley,  J.  B.,  4S0 


INDEX. 


Abbott,  G.  H.,  275,  276. 
Abernethy,  George,  146,  14S,  150,  160. 
Agriculture,  115,  315,  394- 
Aguilar,  Martin    cle,  30,   river   of,    30, 
49,  54.  76- 

Alarcon,  Fernando  de,  explores  Colo- 
rado river,  17. 

Alaska,  35,  59,  63,  65,  69,  95,  102. 

Albion,  New,  21,  55, 

Alden,  Capt.  B.  R.,   215. 

Allhouse  creek,  455-6. 

Allhouse,  Philip,  44S,  455- 

Amazons,  Isle  of,  14. 

Ambrose,  Dr.  G.  II.,  202. 

American  explorations,  6S,  72,  75,  76, 
92,  iiS,  126,  136,  145,  1S6,  301. 

.American   board  of  commissioners   for 
foreign  missions,  128. 

American  Fur  Company,  118,  123,  125, 
129. 

Angell,  Martin,  killed,  259. 

.\nian,    .Straits   of,  13,    19,  22,  28,  35, 
48,  60,  62,  75. 

ADplegate    creek,  siege  of  cabins,  259, 
■458. 

.^pplegate  trail,  14S,  302-7. 

Applegate,  Charles,  Jesse  and  Lindsay, 
143,  148,  302,  349. 

-Armstrong,  Ben.,  215. 

Armstrong,  Pleasant,  219. 

Arteaga,    voyage  of  Captain    Ignacio, 
62. 

Ashland,  214,  352,  358. 

Ashburton  treaty,  141. 

Ashley,  Gener<il  W.  H.,  u8. 

Astor,  John  Jacob,  94,  106. 

Astoria,  96,  100,  102,  104,  105,  107. 

Athabaska,  lake,  81. 

.\ugur,  Captain  U.  S.  A.,  276. 

Avalanche,  3S9. 

B 

Baffin's  bay  discovered,  32. 

Baker  guards,  the,  348. 
Baker,  mount,  79. 

Bandon,  4S9. 

Battle  Kock,  siege  of,  471,  473. 

Bear  creek,  Indian  tight  on,  214. 

Beaver  money,  170. 

Beekman,  C.  C.  363. 

Behring  Straits  discovered,  35,  60. 

Benton  Senator  T.  H.,  163,  164. 

Berkeley,  Capt.,  re-discovers  Straits  of 

Fuca,  66. 
Big  Bar,  374. 
Big  Meadows,   266,    Smith's    tight  at, 

279,  281. 
Bitter-root  Mountains,  86,  91. 
Blackburn's  Ferry,  fight  at,  188. 
Blanchet,   Revs.   F.  N.  and  A.  M.  A., 

132,  136,  156,  170. 
Blanco,  Cape,  discovered,   30,   54,  76. 
Bledsoe,  Capt.,  282. 
Bloody  Point  Massacre,  204. 
I'.Uie  Mountains,   102,  123,  148. 
liodega  y  Quadra,  J.  F.  de,  52,  54. 
Bohemia  mines,  392. 
Boise  Fort,  125. 

Bonneville,  Capt.  B.  L.  E.,  123,   125. 
Boundaries  of  the  United  States,  47, 84. 


Browntown,  455. 

Brouillet,  Father  J.  B.  A.,  15S,  159. 
Bruce,  Major  James,  256,  2S2. 
Bucareli,  Port,  54. 
Buccaneers,  20,  22,  32,  33. 
Buchanan,   Lieut-Col.   U.S.A.,    276. 
Buford  or  Beaufort,  James,  killed,  272. 
Butte  creek,  war  upon,  258. 


Cabeza-Vaca,  N.  A.  de,  16. 
Cabrillo,  Juan  Rodriguez,  18. 
California    Lower,    discovery   of,     15; 
attempts    to  colonize,    15,  33;   Mis- 
sions,    38;    Upper    California,     first 
exploration,  18;  missions,  44. 

Calilornia,  Gulf  of,  16,  44;  population 
of,  46:  mines,  169,  170. 

Camas    Prairie,  406;  valley,   421. 

Camp  Leland,  254. 

Camp  Stewart,  215. 

Canada,  47. 

Canneries,  488,  4S9. 

Canyon,  emigrant  suffering  in  the,  149. 

Canyonville,  425; 

Carver,  Jonathan,  48,  49. 

Cascades  of  the  Columbia,  87. 

Cascade  mountains,  148,  387. 

Cascades  massacre,  176. 

Casey,  Lieutenant-Col.  Silas,  200,  474, 
475. 

Catching  creek,  486. 

Catholic  Missions,  132, 135  to  157,  151. 
15s.  157- 

Cave  fight,  the,  233-4. 

Cayuse    Indians,    89,    130,    152,    153, 
106  to  165. 

Census  of  1849,  169. 

Chapman,  Lieutenant-Colonel  W.  W., 
264-S,  268, 

Chetco   Indians,    271;    description  of, 
481 

Chinese,  346. 

Chinook  Indians,  78,  87,  104. 

Chipewyan,  fort.  Si. 

Cibola,  fabulous  city  of,  16,  17. 

Civil  Bend,  421. 

Clarke's  Fork  of  the  Columbia,  86. 

Clatsop,  fort,  87. 

Clearwater  river,  86. 

Cleveland,  428. 

Climate,  299. 

Cluggage,  James,  359. 

Coal,  394,  493. 

Coats,    Onsby   and    Long    murdered, 
205. 

Coast  Indians,  271. 

Coast  Mail  newspaper,  494. 

Coast  Range  mountains,  389. 

Cockstock  killed  at  Oregon  City,  154. 

Cole's  valley,  426-7. 

Colorado    river,  16,  17,  118,  119,  123. 

Columbia  river,  49,  53,  67,  76,  78,  80, 
S3,  S7,  96,  106,  114. 

Columbia,  ship,  second  voyage  of,  76. 

Columbus,  Christopher,  10. 

Concomly,  Indian  chief,  105. 

Conasset,  fabulous  city  of,  27. 

Congregational  missions,  1 28,  1 32,  151 
to  160. 

Congressional   debates,   142,    149,  164 
to  167. 


Cook,   Capt.    James,    voyage    of,    55' 

491. 
Cook's  inlet,  60,  66. 
Coos,  origin  of  name,  496. 
Coos  Bay,  490;  discovery  of,  491;  bar, 

496-7. 
Coos  Bay  company,  492. 
Coos  Bay  Neius,  newspaper,  494. 
Coos  county,   483,  499;  boundaries  of, 

496. 
Copper  mines,  457. 
Coppermine  river,  50. 
Coquille   massacre,    271-2;  river,  484, 

490;  Herald,    newspaper,    487;    Co- 
quille river  bar,  490;  origin  of  name, 

496;  City,  487. 
Coionado's  invasion  of  Cibolo,  18. 
Cortereal,  Caspar  de,  13. 
Cortes,  Hernando  de,  14  to  17. 
Cow  creek,  murder  of  miners  on,  212; 

disturbances,  257,    258;  description, 

etc.,  423,  424,  425. 
Cowlitz  river,  117. 
Carter  lake,  308,  311. 
Crespi,  Father,  45. 
Crowley,  Miss  M.  L.,  462. 
Crooks,  Ramsey,  100,  103. 
Culver,  Indian  agent,  271. 
Curry  county,  war  in,  270;  description 

and  history,  465,  482. 
D 
Dalles,   The,  102.  131,    137,  153,  156, 

159- 
Dardanelles,  the,  215,  379. 
Dart,  Dr.  Anson,  Indian  commissioner, 

474- 
Day,  John,  100  to  103. 
Deady,    Judge    M.  P.,   221,    363,  366, 

367,  446. 
Deer  creek,  452. 
De  la  Matter  mine,  453. 
Demers,  Father  Modest,  151. 
Denmark,  476. 
DeSmet,  Father  P.  J.,  132. 
Destruction  island,  53. 
Dilley,  murdered  at  Phnenix,  196. 
Disappointment,    Cape,     53,    67,    77, 

78,  87. 
Douglas  county,   3S3,  442;  boundaries 

of,  404,  406;  statistics,  407,  408. 
Drain,  431,  432. 
Drake,  Sir  Francis,  20,  22. 


Eagle  Point,  376. 

East  India  Company,  64. 

Edgecumb,  Mount,  53,  59,  I06. 

Edwards,  Edward,  213. 

Edwards,  P.  L.,  127,  131,  132,  :S6. 

Eells,  Rev.  Gushing,   131,  139. 

Eight  Dollar   Mt.,  fight   at,  264,   265, 

452,  453- 
Elk  creek,  477. 
Elk  Head,  441. 
Elkton,  402,  405,  434. 
Ellensburg,  478,  4S0. 
Ely,  Lieutenant  Simeon,  217,218. 
Emigrations,  yearly,  1 37,  143,  147, '48. 
Empire  City,  493. 
English  explorations,  20,  32,  47,  55  to 

61,  64  to  68,  761081. 
Enos,  Indian,  273,  183. 


Esther  mine,  333,  463. 

Evan's  creek,   campaign  of,   21S,  220. 


Fairweather,  mount,  59. 

Ferrelo,  discovers  Cape  Mendocino,  18. 

Fields  and  Cunningham  murdered,  240, 

241. 
Fitzgerald,  Major,  U.  S.  A.,  206,  209, 

246,  255. 
FiveCrows,  Indian  chief,  153,  15S,  161. 
Flat-head  Indians,  127. 
Flattery,  Cape,  52,  7S. 
Flint.  A.  R.,  402,  403. 
Floras  creek,  476. 
Fonte,  Admiral  de,  27. 
Foot's  creek,  185,  1S6,  379. 
Forests,  390. 
Fort  Boise,  125. 
Fort  Briggs,  452,  454. 
Fort  Hall,  125,  137,  138,  14S. 
Fort  Hays,  452. 
Fort  Jones,   209. 
Fort  Lamerick,  278. 
Fort  Lane,   231. 
Fort  Orford,  275. 
Fort  Umpqiia,  301,   397,  399- 
Fort  Vancouver.  114,  115,  124. 
Fort  Walla  Walla,  123,  129,  137,  156, 

159,  175,  176. 
Fowler  mine,  331-2. 
Franciscan  missionaries  in    California, 

43- 
Fraser  river,  81. 

Fremont,    Lieutenant  J.  C,  145,  187. 
French  explorations,  48,  63. 
Frizzell  and  Mungo  killed,  229. 
Fuca,  Straits  of  Juan  de,  23  to  26,  52, 

57.  66,  75,  76,  78. 
Fur  trade,  34  to  37,  61,  63,  Si,  82,  91, 

93,  100    to  104,  106   to    113,  114  to 


Gaines,  Governor,  treaty  with  Indians, 
199-  336. 

Galice  creek,  supposed  murder  of 
miners  at,  20S;  siege  of,  250-1;  de- 
scription, 460-1. 

Gania,  Vasco  de,  11. 

Gardiner,  402,  436. 

Geisel  family,  the,  274,  478-9. 

Geoige,  fort,  104,  107. 

Ghent,  treaty  of,  106. 

Gibbs,  A.  C,  402. 

Gilliam,  Colonel  Cornelius,  160,  161, 
■163. 

Glendale,  426. 

Gold   Ik-    .  !:    ;n  ;^       ,.  .    274. 

Gold.  .1^  I   u. 

Gold  11.  ,  ■-,  j;S. 

Goodall,  L_L,  :.     |. .!.._-,    206,  215,  21S, 

234. 
Grand  Ronde   valley,  102,  123;  battle 

of,  176. 
Grant's  Pass,  3S0. 
Grave  creek,  462-3;  Indians,  199,  208, 

213. 
Gray,  W.  H.,  129,    131,  139,  145. 
Gray,  Capt.  Robert,  68,  72,  76. 
Gray's  Harbor,  78,  80. 
Great  Slave  lake.  Si. 
Green  valley,  439. 
Green  river,  118,  122. 
Griffin,  B.  B.,  216. 

H 
Hahn,  Capt.,  385. 
Hall,  fort,  125,  137.  138,  148. 
Harding  and  Rose  killed,  217. 
Harkness  killed,  266. 
Harris  family,  the,  246. 


Hawaiian  Islands,  56,  60. 

Hearne,  e.xplorations  of  Samuel,  50. 

Heceta,  Bruno  d-,  52,  53. 

Hedden,  Cyrus,  471,  474- 

Hermann,  Dr.,  485. 

Hermansville,  485. 

Hines,  Rev.   Gustavus,  132,    136,  146, 

>53- 
Hitchcock,  General,  U.  S.  A.,   200. 
Hooker,    Colonel   Joseph,    U.    S.  A., 

339- 
Horn,  Cape,  discovered,   32. 
Hudson's  Bay,  13,  32,  47. 
Hudson's    Bay  Company,    33,  50,    81, 

loS  to  126,  148,  397,  399. 
Hull,  Charles  W.  killed,  259. 
Humboldt  river,  119,  122. 
■'Humbug  war,"  238,  240. 
Hungry   Hill,   campaign   of,  251,  253, 

464. 
Hunt,  Wilson  P.,  e.xpedilion  of,  100  to 

103,  105. 

Illinois  valley,  451. 

Immigration    of  1845,    137;    of   1843, 

143:  of   1844,   147. 
Irvin,  Lieutenant  U.  S.  A.,  kidnapped, 

200. 

J 
Jackson    county,    description    of,   306, 

315:  history  of,  315,    382. 
Jackson  creek,  337. 
Jackson  Rangers,  349. 
Jacksonville,  359. 
"Jesuit  missionaries  in  lower  California, 

38,  42- 
Joe,  Chief  of  the  Rogue  River  Indians, 

263. 
Joint  occupancy  of  Oregon,    loS,  113, 

126. 
John,  Chief  of  the  Applegate   Indians, 

190,  216,  217,  279,  281,  284. 
John  Day  Rivei,  8S.   103,  148. 
Jones,  Capt.,  U.  S.  A.,  275. 
Josephine  creek,  discovered,  447. 
Josephine  county,  446. 
judah,  Capt.  H.  M.,  U.  S.  A.,  233. 
Jump-off-Joe  creek,  461. 


Kamiakan,  Indian  chief,  174,  176. 
Kautz,   Lieut.   A.   V.,   U.    S.   A.,  221, 

251. 
Kearney,  Gen.  Philip,  197. 
Keene,  Granville,  killed,  240. 
Keeney,  Captain  Jonathan,  261. 
Kelsev,  Colonel  John,  265. 
Kendrick,  Captain  John,  68. 
Kerbyville,  453,  454. 
ICing  ( ;curge  III.  Archipelago,  53. 
King  ( ieorge  Sound  Company,  64. 
Kino,  Father,  33.  38,  39. 
Klamath  Indians,  1 78. 


K!an 


13'- 


Klickitat  Indians,  183.* 
Kyle,  James  C,  killed,  231. 


Labrador,  straits  of,  13. 

Lamerick,    General  J.    K.,    202,    254, 

262,  266,  282. 
Lane,  Gen.  Joseph,  16S,  198,  217,  222. 
La  Perouse   voyage  of,  63. 
Lapwai  Mission,  130,  132,  155. 
Latshaw,  Major,  281. 
LeBreton,   George  W.,  136,   146,  153, 

154- 
Ledford  massacre,   346,  347. 
Leivard,    John,    efforts    to   cross   the 

Continent,  63. 
Lee,  H.  A.  G.,  160. 


.  132, 136, 146. 
ition,  85,  92. 


LeN\i>.  Joe,  157  to  159. 
Limestone,  321. 
Long  Prairie,  438 

Looking-glass,    417,    Indians    of,     at- 
tacked, 257. 
Loretto,  Mission  of  Our  Lady  of,  40. 
Lost  river  fight,  207. 
Lowden's  ferry  fight,  1S8,  189. 
Louisiana,  Province  of,  47,  84. 
Lovejoy,  A.  Lawrence,  139,  150. 
Lower  California,  colonized,  ^;i. 
Lupton  massacre,  243. 

M 
Mackenzie,  Alexander,  explorations  of. 

81,  82;  Mackenzie  river,  81. 
Magellan,  11,  13. 

Maldonado  and  theSlraitsof  Anian,  22. 
Mandan  Indians,  86. 
Marple,  P.  B.,  491. 
Marshall,  James  W.,  169. 
Marshfield,  494,  495. 
Martinez,  Estevan,  voyages  of,  52,  69: 

Nootka  controversy,  71. 
Mary's  river,  (see  Humboldt). 
Mrssacre  on  October  ninth,  (855,  24-I. 
Maurelle.  Antonio    voyages  of,  52,  6:. 
McBean,  William,  159. 
McKay,  Alexan.ler,  Tom  and  William 
C,  95,  121,  129,  138,  152,  156,161. 
McKinlav,  Archiiwld.  1 58. 
McLaughlin,  Dr.   John,  121.  136,  153. 
McLaughlin,  Joseph.  122. 
McLeod  river,   122. 
McTavish,  J.  G.,  104. 
Meachani,  A.   B.,  207. 
Meadows,   first  campaign  of  the,  256; 

second  campaign,  266,  269. 
Meares,    Captain,  voyages  of,    58,   65, 

6S,  71- 
Medford,  375. 
Meek,  Joseph  L.  and  Stephen  II.,  133, 

137,  146,  148,  166,  168. 
Mendocino,  Cape,  discovered,  18. 
Mendoza,  Antonio,  Viceroy  of  Mexico, 

16,  18. 
Merchants'  and    Farmers'    Navigation 

Co.,  3S5. 
Methodist  missions,  127,  130,  131,  132. 

135  I"  137.  151.  154- 
Meteorological  tables,  300. 
Miller.  Captain  John  F.,  331,  232. 
Mines   and   Minerals,  321    to  333,  392 

to  394- 
Mis^i,,ns  in  California,  38. 
Missions  in  Oregon,    127   to    133,  151. 

154. 
Missionaries,    127,  159. 
Missouri  Fur  Co.,  92,  118. 
Missouri  river,  86,  91. 
Modocs,  187,  204,  207,  349. 
Molalla  Indians,  154. 
Montcrrv,   Ibv  of,  29,  45. 
M..nm  M.   Klias,  60. 

Murphy's  creek,  459;  fight  at,  280. 

Myrtle  creek,  422,  423. 

Myrtie  Point,  4S5. 

N 

Nesmith,  J.  W.,    148,  221,  223. 

New  Archangel,  106. 

Nez  Perce    Indians,   86,   90,  123,  128. 
130,  132,  153. 

Ninth  Regiment,  293,  296. 

Nisqually,  missions  at,  151,  174. 

Niza,  Father  Marcas  de,  pretended  ex- 
plorations of,    17. 


Nolan,  Rhodes,  214. 

Noolka  convention,  73,  74. 

Nootka  Sound,  51,  54,  64,  66,  70,  73, 
75,  81. 

Xorlh  Bend,  495. 

North  Sea,  11. 

North  Umpqua  river,  389. 

Northwest  Fur   Co.,  of  Montreal,   81, 
91,  100,  107  to  109,  113,  114. 
O 

Oak  Flat,  council  of,  279. 

Oakland,  406,  428,  430. 

Ogden,  I'eter  Skeen,  122,  159. 

Ogden's  river  (see  Humboldt). 

Olympus,  Mount,  52. 

Ord,   Capt.    E.   O.  C,   U.  .S.  A.,  277. 

Oregon,  first  discoveries,  18,  20,  30; 
origin  of  name,  49,  50,  S3;  joint  oc- 
cupancy, 108,  113;  missions  127  to 
133;  first  efforts  at  self-government, 
133;  boundary,  141:  white  popula- 
tion of,  in  1843,  143;  subdivided, 
170. 

Oregon  and  California  railroad,  381, 
3S2,  396,  411,  424,  462. 

Oregon  City  laid  out,  137;  Indian  fight 
at,  154. 

Oreifoii  Senlinel,  newspajjer,   369. 

Oregon  trail,  the,   338,  447,  449,  461. 

Orford,  Cape,  30,  54,  76. 
P 

Pacific  Fur  Co.,  95,  104. 

Pacific  Ocean,  discovery  of,  11;  early 
explorations,  15. 

Palmer,  Joel,  221, 

Palouse  river,  87,  103. 

Palouse  Indians,  103. 

Pambrun,  P.  C,    129. 

Parker,  Rev.  Samuel,  128,  151. 

Parkersburg,  488. 

Peo-peo-mux-mux,  Indian  Chief,  88, 
153,  175- 

Perez,  voyages  of  Juan,  51,  52. 

Peters  Philip,  400. 

Philip  II.,  orders  survey  of  northwest 

Philippine    Islands  subdued  by  Spain, 

19- 
Phillips,  Edward,  killed,  236. 
Philpnt  killed,   237,  452. 
I'hoenis,  374. 
Pikhei.  M,ijor,  122. 
Pirmecrs,   s..ciety  of,  35 1. 
Poland,  Captain,  273. 
Portala,  first  governor  of  California,  44. 
Port  Orford,  200.  471,  477. 
Port  San  Lorenzo,  51. 
Post,  newspaper,  480. 
Prim,  Judge  P.  P.,  361. 
Prince  William's  sound,  60,  65,  69 
Printing,  first  in  Oregon,  132. 
Provisional    government    of    Oregon, 

133.  135.   '45.  146. 
I'ligcl  S.iund  Agricultural  Co.,   1 70. 
Puget  Sound  explored,  79. 
Putnam  Valley,  438,  439. 

Q 

(Quadra,  Bodega  y,  52,  62,  So. 
(Quartz  mining,    326,    333,    392,    l<)l, 

456,  466. 
Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  51,  79. 
Quicksilvei,  321,  593,  394. 
(juivira.  Fabulous  City  of,   jr. 

R 

Rainfall,  300. 
Ranier,  Mount,  79. 
Randolph,  492;  mines  of,  4S9. 
Rawlins,  Miss  Josephine,  447. 
Ricortkr,  newspaper,  476. 


Red   River   of  the    North,    50;  settle- 
ments, 109,    134;  emigrants,  137. 
Redwood  grove,  482. 
Reyes,  Rio  de  los,  26  to  28,  48,49,  54, 

59,  76-  . 
Reynolds,  Major  U.    S.  .\.,    272,  274. 
Rhoades,  Jacob,  215. 
Rice  settlement,  257,  420. 
Rice  valley,  440. 
Riddle,  424. 

Rinearson,  Capt.  Jacob,  247,  249. 
Rock  Point,  379, 
Rocky  mounlains,  48,  85,   118. 
Rocky  Mountain    Fur   Company,  119, 

122,  123. 
Rogue  river,  312,  313. 
Rogue    River   Indians,  178,    185,  190, 

202,  216,  302,  304,  378. 
Rollins  (see  Rawlins.) 
Roseburg,  403,  405,  416. 
Roseburg  and  Coos    Bay  railway,  396, 

494.  499- 
Ross,  General  John  E.,  160,  205,  206, 

213,  220,  234,    249,    251,  328,  345, 

349.  464- 
Russian  explorations  in  the  Pacific,  34 

to  38. 
Russian   American  Trading  Company, 

36,  63,  106,  117. 
Ryswick,  treaty  of,  47. 

S 
Sahaptin  river  (see  Snake.) 
Sailor  Diggings  (see  Waldo.) 
Saint  Elias,  Mount,  discovered,  35,  59. 
Salt  Lake,  Great,  118. 
Salva-Tierra,  Father,  38. 
Sam   and  Joe,    chiefs   of    the    Rogue 

River.s,  210,  211. 
Sandwich  Islands,  56,  60,  6S,  93. 
San  Diego  mission,  43. 
San  Jacinto,  Mount,  53. 
San  Francisco  Bay  discovered,  21,  29, 

45- 
San  Lorenzo,  Port,  5l. 
San  Roque,  river  of,  53. 
Sauvies'  island,  88. 
Saskatwchewan  river,  81. 
Scott,  Capt.  Levi.  148,  302,  400,  401. 
Scurvy,  sufferings  of  Spanish  explorers, 

iS,  29,  30. 
Scottsburg,  385,  401,  402,  435. 
Second  regiment,  O.  M.  V.,  260,  265, 

286,  292. 
Selkirk's    Red   River  settlements,  109. 
Serra,'  Father  Junipero.  43  to  46. 
SettlemeiUs  in  Oregon,  130,  134,  152. 
Shasta  Indians,  178,  189. 
Sheep,  395. 

Simpson,  Sir  George,  137. 
Siskiyou  mountains,  122,  131. 
Siuslaw  river,  384,  440. 
Sitka,  Alaska,  lo6. 
Sixes  river.  476. 
Skinner,  Judge    A.  A.,    150,  199,  202, 

Slate  creeC,  459- 

Smith,  Capt.  A.  J.,  U.  S.  A.,  223, 
m,  239.  277.  279- 

Smith  river,  383,  439,  44°- 

Smith,  Jedediah  S.,  iiS,  120,  122, 
184.  399.- 

Snake  river,  86,  100,  125. 

South  Sea,  discovery  of,  10. 

South  Sea  Company,  64. 

Southern  Oregon,  history  and  descrip- 
tion of,  297,  499. 

Southern  Oregon  emigrant  road,  148, 
302. 

Southern  Oregon  Improvement  Com- 
pany, 494,  499. 


Spanish  explorations,  iS,  29,  30,  31, 
51,  52,  53,  62,  69,  75,  79. 

Spalding,  Kev.  H.  H.,  129,  133,  139, 
152,  157- 

Spokane,  fort,  103,  104;  mission,  132. 

Steele,  Elijah,  201,  202,  203. 

.Stevens,  Gov.  \.  I.,  173,  176. 

.Stewart,  Captain,  U.  .S.  A.,  197. 

Steptoe,  Col.  E.  J.,  176. 

Stock,  394. 

Straits  of  Anian,  17,  20,  23. 

Stoneman,  Lieutenant,  475. 

Sucker  creek,   544,    455. 

Sumner,  495. 

Sutter,  Captain  John  A.,  131,  169. 

Sutton,  J.  M.,  464. 
T 

Table  Rocks,  the,  377,  37S;  reserva- 
tion at,  231. 

Table  Rock  band,  263. 

Tal'U  Rock  Stitlincl,  newspaper  (see 
Oregon  Smlinel. ) 

Table  Rock  treaty,  221,  224. 

Tallent,  380. 

Tam-su-ky,  Cayuse  chief,  156   to   162. 

Tedford  and  Rouse  attacked  by  In- 
dians, 224. 

Temperature,  300. 

Ten-mile  valley,  419. 

Territorial  government  of  Oregon,  163, 
176. 

Thornton,  J.  Q.,  150,  164,  167. 

Tichenor,    Capt.  Win.,  471,  473,  478. 

Tierra,  Father   Juan  Maria  Salva,  39. 

Timber,  390. 

Tipsu  Tyee,  201,  211,  216,  230,  233. 

Tonquin,  ship,  95,  loo. 

Touchet  river,  90. 

Townsend,  Port,  79. 

Trappers,  character  of,  125,  126. 

Treaties — Nootka,  73;  Ghent,  106; 
Ryswick,  47;  Ashburton,  141;  of 
1S46,  149. 

Trinidad,  bay  of,  52. 

Tukannon  river,  87. 

T'Vault,  W.  G.,  197,  369,  370,  372, 
377,  473- 

Tyee  George,   547. 
U 

Ugarte,  Father  Juan,  38,  41. 

Ulloa,  Francisco  de,  explorations  of, 
16. 

Umatilla  river,  88,  124. 

Umpqua  City,  402,  438. 

Umpqua  county,  403,  405,  406. 

Umpqua,  Fort,  184,  301,  397,  399. 

Umpqua  Indians,  178,  182,  183. 

Umpqua  river,  21,  30,  117,  119,  184, 
384,  399.  401. 

V 

Vancouver,  Capt.  George,  74,  81. 

Vancouver  Island,  51,  80. 

Vancouver,  Fort,  80,  1 14,  115,  124. 

Viscaino,    Admiral   Sebastian,   29,  31. 

Voyageurs,  95. 

Wagner,  Mrs.,  killed,  245. 

Wagons   first   taken  to    Oregon,    129, 

137,  142. 
Waiilatpu,  130,  1 38,  152. 
Waldo,   called    Sailor  Diggings,     229, 

456,  457- 
Walker,  Rev.  E.,  131,  139. 
W'alker,  Capt.  Jesse,  235. 
Walla  Walla,  fort,  123,  129,  137,  156, 

159.  175.  '76- 
Walla  Walla  Indians,  88,  102,  103. 
Waller,  Rev.,  his  zeal,   152. 
Willamette  Cattle  Company,  130,  1S6. 


War— Cayuse,  l6o;  of  1853,  214,  232; 

of  1855-6,  244,  296, 
Wascopum  Indians,  102,  153. 
Washington   tenitoiy   organized,    170, 

174- 
Western  University,  345. 
White,  Dr.  Elijah,  137,  i5i,    154. 
Whitman,  Dr.    iVIarcus,    12S;  overland 

journey,  137  to  142. 
Whitman  massacre,  150,  159. 
Wilkes,  Commodore  Charles,  136,  l86, 


301. 


^\•i 


437. 


Willamette  river,  88. 
Williams'  creek,  458. 
Williamsburg,  458,  459. 
Williams,  Capt.  M.  JM.,  265. 
Williams,  Col.  R.  L.,  260,  262. 
Willow  Springs,  332,  377;  Indian  fight 

at,  196. 
Wilderville,  459. 
Wills,  Thomas,  213. 
Winchester,   402,   404,   405,  408,  432. 
Winchester,  Payne  &  Co.,  401. 
Winchuck  river,  481. 
Winnipeg  settlements,  109. 


Wolf  meeting,  the,  145. 
Woodman,  Calvin,  murder  of,  20 
Woodville,  380. 

Wool,  General  John  E.,  175,  275, 
Wright,  Gen.  203,  272,  274. 
Wright,  Col.  George,    176. 
Wyeth,  Nathaniel  f.,  123,  125,  12 

Y 
Yakima  Indians,  174-5-6. 
Yellept,  Chief,  88. 
Yellowstone  river,  86;  91. 
Yoncalla,   401,   433. 
Young,  Ewing,  123,  130,  135,  18 


--;% 


/%' 


-^ 


c^C-t/m. 


oUm  (AiiA 


<cxAc^ 


PACIFIC   COAST, 


CHAPTER  I. 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  PACIFIC. 


Prehistoric— The  New  World  Divided  between  Spain  and   Portugal— Discovery   of  the   South   Sea     Voyage  of 
Magellan— Naming  the  Pacific —Cortereal  and  the  Straits  of  Anian. 

Intense  glooiu  enshrouds  the  history  of  the  Pacific  coast  prior  to  the  sixteenth 
century.  The  investigations  of  the  geologist  have  revealed  how  the  great  inland  arms 
of  the  ocean  gradually  became  land-locked  seas  whose  receding  waters  left  behind  the 
deposit  of  alluvium  brought  down  from  the  mountains  by  the  thousands  of  small 
streams  pouring  into  them,  by  which  process  were  evolved  the  great  fertile  valleys 
whose  names  have  become  the  synonyms  of  abundance ;  but  of  its  history  they  are 
silent.  The  patient  researches  of  the  archaeologist  have  here  and  there  cast  a  faint  ray 
of  light  into  the  encircling  gloom,  but  the  fleeting  outlines  thus  momentarily  revealed 
serve  but  to  confuse  the  mind  and  render  more  intense  the  deep  shadow  hanging  over 
all.  What  races  of  human  beings  have  acted  here  the  great  drama  of  life,  their  wars, 
customs,  manner  of  living,  religious  beliefs  and  the  degree  of  civilization  they  attained, 
are  all  hidden  by  an  impenetrable  veil.  Here  and  there  a  voiceless  skeleton  disen- 
toombed  from  its  resting  place  for  centuries  far  beneath  the  verdant  carpet  of  the  earth 
it  once  trod,  silentl,y  points  to  ages  long  before  the  stony  lips  of  the  Sphynx  were 
carved  or  the  mighty  Atlantis  sunk  beneath  the  seething  billows  of  a  convulsed  ocean; 
yet  of  those  ages  it  reveals  naught  but  the  simple  fact  of  their  existence. 

Rude  monuments  of  rocks  and  mounds  of  earth,  a  few  rough  carvings  in  the 
rocky  walls  of  towering  cliffs  and  crude  paintings  on  the  surface  of  huge  stones,  ob- 
jects of  superstitious  awe  and  reverence  to  the  simple  natives,  speak  of  races  now 
passed  away,  of  whom  the  aborigines  of  to-day  know  nothing  except  the  faint  allusion 
made  to  them  in  the  legends  of  their  ancestors.  These  traditions  also  speak  of  the 
presence  long  years  ago  of  a  race  of  pale  faced  people  who  visited  these  shores  i)i 
ships,  yet  so  intangible  are  they  that  scarcely  a  theory  can  be  founded  upon  them ; 
certainly  nothing  positive  can  be  proved.  That  the  Chinese  or  the  Tartars  in  the 
years  of  their  great  warlike  strength  and  foreign  conquests  may  have  visited  the  west- 
ern coast  of  America  is  far  from  improbable;  in  fact  archaeologists  have  discovered 
many  evidences  of  such  visits  in  the  crumbled  ruins  of  Mexico,  Central  America  and 
Peru,  and  in  the  customs  and  religious  ceremonies  of  the  people  whom  the  conquering 


10  PACIFIC    COAST. 

swords  of  Cortes  and  Pizarro  so  rutlilessly  slaughtered ;  but  Oregon  and  Washington 
offer  but  little  testimony  either  to  confirm  or  confute  the  theory.  It  is  quite  possible, 
and  even  probable,  that  the  traditions  referred  to  had  their  rise  in  the  visits  of  the 
early  Spanish  explorers.  Leaving  these  mysteries  to  be  revealed  by  the  investigations 
of  the  future,  let  us  step  from  out  the  shadow  upon  the  lighted  plain  of  authentic 
record. 

Inunediately  upon  the  return  of  Columbus  in  the  spring  of  1493,  with  the  start- 
ling iutelligence  that  he  had  reached  India  in  his  voyage  westward,  for  such  was  his 
belief  at  that  time,  the  Spanish  sovereigns  applied  to  the  Pope,  who  then  arrogated  to 
himself  not  only  the  spiritual  but  the  temporal  sovereignty  of  the  universe,  for  special 
grants  and  privileges  in  all  lands  thus  discovered.  Formerly  the  head  of  the  church 
had  bestowed  upon  Portugal,  which  had  for  a  century  past  been  the  foremost  nation 
in  making  voyages  of  exploration  and  discovery,  sovereign  rights  in  the  south  and 
east,  similar  to  those  Spain  now  desired  in  the  west.  With  an  arrogance  such  as  none 
but  the  ruler  of  a  universe  can  display  and  a  munificence  to  be  expected  only  from  one 
bestowing  that  which  he  does  not  possess  or  which  costs  him  nothing,  the  successor  of 
Peter  and  God's  representative  upon  earth  drew  a  line  from  pole  to  pole  across  the 
globe  one  hundred  leagues  west  of  the  Azores,  and  assigned  to  Portugal  all  newly-dis- 
covered lands  lying  east  of  it  and  to  Spain  all  lying  to  the  westward.  This  partition 
was  unsatisfactory  to  ambitious  Portugal,  and  after  two  years  of  wrangling  the  obliging- 
Pope  moved  his  dividing  line  270  leagues  farther  west. 

Though  the  Portuguese  were  obedient  to  the  Pontiff's  decree  and  left  Spain  in  un- 
disputed possession  of  all  its  western  discoveries,  not  ceasing,  however,  to  make  many 
voyages  of  exploration,  this  was  far  from  being  the  case  with  the  English.  The 
sovereigns  of  that  "  tight  little  isle"  were  wont  to  be  very  independent  in  their  conduct, 
and  had  been  accustomed  for  some  time  to  show  little  respect  for  the  temporal  au- 
thority of  the  Pope  when  it  conflicted  too  strongly  with  their  pyersonal,  political  or 
territorial  interests.  It  can  well  be  imagined,  then,  that  this  partition  of  the  undis- 
covered world  into  equal  portions  between  Spain  and  Portugal  did  not  deter  England 
from  making  voyages  of  discovery  to  the  new  world  and  claiming  sovereign  rights  over 
all  lands  explored,  a  claim  which  neither  the  Pope  nor  his  two  pet  subjects  dared  to 
dispute.  Following  in  the  footsteps  of  her  island  neighbor  and  immemorial  enemy, 
France,  and  Holland  also,  ignored  the  papal  bull  and  in  later  years  grasped  eagerly 
after  their  share  of  the  prize. 

And  what  was  this  land  towards  which  the  eyes  of  the  great  nations  of  Europe 
were  turned  ?  It  was,  as  they  supposed,  the  west  coast  of  India,  the  wonderful  island 
of  Zipango  and  the  fabulously  wealthy  land  of  Cathay  described  by  Marco  Polo. 
Here  was  to  be  found  the  "gold  of  Ophir"  which  had  enriched  the  kingdom  of  the 
mighty  Solomon,  diamonds  and  precious  stones  in  abundance,  and  the  fountain  of  per- 
petual youth.  Imagination  and  legend  had  peojiled  it  with  wonderful  nations  and 
cities  and  had  stored  it  with  a  wealth  of  precious  stones  and  metals  such  as  the  known 
portions  of  the  globe  never  possessed.  Love  of  dominion  and  cupidity,  that  great 
ruling  power  in  human  nature,  led  them  forward  in  the  contest. 

From  1492  to  1513,  when  Vasco  Nunez  gazed  from  the  mountains  upon  the  vast 
"South  Sea,"  many  voyages  of  discovery  were  made,  and  the  Atlantic  coast  of  America. 


PACIFIC   COAST.  11 

was  exi)lored  by  the  Spanish,  Portuguese  and  English  navigators  from  sunn}'  Brazil  as 
far  north  as  the  icy  shores  of  Labrador.  These  voyages  had  satisfied  geographers  that 
not  the  India  of  the  east,  but  a  new  continent,  probably  a  great  eastern  extension  of 
Asia,  had  been  found  by  Cohinibus,  and  that  this  must  be  crossed  or  circumnavigated 
before  reaching  the  hoarded  treasures  of  Cathay.  Indeed  as  early  as  1498  Vasco  de 
Gama,  a  Portuguese,  reached  India  by  sailing  eastward  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
and  it  was  plainly  evident  that  between  that  point  (Calcutta)  and  the  farthest  point 
yet  reached  to  the  westward  lay  many  wide  leagues  of  land  and  water,  unexplored  and 
unknown.  The  idea  prevailed  that  a  great  sea  existed  to  the  southwest  beyond  this 
new  land  of  America,  an  idea  which  was  strengthened  and  supported  by  statementsof 
the  natives  carried  as  slaves  to  Europe  in  every  returning  vessel,  and,  indeed,  several 
eftbrts  had  been  made  to  pass  into  this  unknown  sea  by  going  southward  along  the 
coast  of  America.  The  title  of  "America"  had  been  applied  to  the  southern  half  of 
our  continent  which  was  at  first  supposed  to  be  separate  and  distinct  from  the  northern 
half,  or  Asia,  as  it  was  believed  to  be. 

It  was  a  quiet  day  in  September,  1513,  that  Vasco  Nunez  de  Balboa  gazed  from 
the  mountain  tops  of  Central  America  upon  the  sleeping  waters  of  the  Pacific,  upon 
which  the  eye  of  a  Caucasian  then  rested  for  the  first  time.  Having  crossed  the  nar- 
row isthmus  joining  the  two  Americas  from  his  starting  point  at  the  Spanish  settle- 
ment of  Antigua  on  the  gulf  of  Uraba,  he  was  guided  by  a  native  to  a  point  from 
which  he  saw  the  unknown  ocean  glistening  in  the  sun  far  beneath  him.  As  at  that 
point  the  isthmus  runs  east  and  west,  the  Atlantic  beating  against  its  shores  on  the 
north  and  the  Pacific  lapping  its  sandy  beach  on  tlje  south,  he  christened  the  latter  the 
'•  South  Sea,"  while  the  Atlantic  was  by  way  of  contrast  named  the  "  North  Sea ;" 
though  this  latter  title  was  soon  transferred  to  a  supposed  ocean  lying  north  of  Amer- 
ica, separated  from  the  South  sea  by  a  narrow  isthmus  similar  to  that  of  Panama,  and 
connected  with  it  by  a  short  strait,  as  will  aj^pear  further  on. 

The  announcement  that  this  great  "  South  Sea"  actually  existed  led  to  increased 
exertions  to  discover  a  route  by  which  vessels  could  pass  around  America  and  traverse 
the  unknown  ocean  in  search  of  the  Indies.  It  soon  became  evident  that  America 
united  with  the  supposed  land  of  Asia  lying  north  of  it  to  form  a  either  new  continent 
hitherto  entirely  unknown,  or  a  great  southeastern  extension  of  Asia  equally  a  stranger 
to  geography.  Exertions  to  discover  the  supposed  southern  passage  to  the  great  South 
sea  were  then  redoubled,  and  in  five  years  were  crowned  with  complete  success.  A 
Portuguese  navigator,  a  native  of  Oporto,  but  sailing  under  the  Spanish  flag,  commanded 
the  first  vessel  that  plowed  Pacific  waters,  and  to  this  expedition  is  due  the  furtlier 
honor  of  making  the  first  complete  navigation  of  the  globe,  proving  conclusively  what 
all  geographers  of  the  time  had  learned  to  believe,  that  the  world  was  round  and  could 
be  encompassed  by  the  traveler  by  going  either  east  or  west.  The  name  of  this  cele- 
brated navigator,  whose  voyage  was  second  only  to  the  one  made  by  Columbus  in  1402 
in  the  knowledge  it  revealed  of  the  earth's  geography,  was  Ferdinando  de  Magalhaens, 
spelled  Magallanes  by  the  Spaniards  and  by  English  authors  given  as  Magellan.  He 
had  made  several  voyages  for  Portugal  via  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  but  becoming  dis- 
satisfied had  left  his  native  land  and  entered  the  service  of  Spain,  to  again  attempt  for 
that  nation  the  effort  of  reaching  the  east  by  sailing  westward.     His  special  destination 


12  PACIFIC   COAST. 

was  the  Moluccas,  then  claimed  by  Spain,  and  to  aid  him  on  his  voyage  he  possessed  a 
chart  upon  which  was  designated  a  passage  into  the  South  sea ;  but  instead  of  the  open 
sea  which  it  actually  is,  this  chart  exhibited  a  narrow  strait  piercing  the  body  of  the 
southern  half  of  America.  The  origin  of  this  chart  and  the  authority  for  marking 
upon  it  such  an  utterly  incorrect  geographical  feature,  are  unknown ;  but  the  proba- 
bilities are  that  the  chart  embraced  tlie  idea  of  some  geographer  as  to  what  the  nature 
of  the  desired  passage  into  the  South  sea  must  be,  and  was  founded  solely  upon  theory. 
That  this  was  probably  the  case  is  supported  by  the  fact  that  a  somewhat  similar  pass- 
age was  supposed  to  lead  through  North  America  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific.  In 
fact  it  took  nearly  three  centuries  to  prove  the  Straits  of  Auian  to  be  utterly  fabulous 
and  mythical. 

On  the  twentieth  of  September,  1519,  Magellan  sailed  from  San  Lucar  with  five 
vessels  and  265  men,  reached  Rio  de  Janeiro  on  the  Brazilian  coast  December  13,  and 
coasted  thence  to  the  southward,  carefully  exploring  every  promising  bay  and  inlet. 
When  he  reached  the  broad  estuary  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  he  thought  surely  the  long- 
sought  strait  had  been  discovered,  but  all  efforts  to  pass  through  the  continent  by  that 
route  were  completely  unsuccessful.  There  was  no  passage  through  the  huge  rocky 
wall  of  the  Andes.  Abandoning  the  attempt  he  sailed  again  southward,  reaching  Port 
St.  Julian,  about  49°  south  latitude,  on  the  thirty-first  of  March,  where  he  remained 
five  months.  August  24,  1520,  he  again  resumed  his  search,  and  on  the  twenty-first 
of  October  reached  Cabo  de  las  Virgenes,  at  the  entrance  of  the  long-sought  straits, 
having  lost  one  vessel  by  shipwreck  and  one  by  desertion.  With  the  remaining  three 
he  passed  through,  naming  the  land  to  the  southward  "  Terre  del  Fuego,"  because  of 
the  many  fires  seen  burning  there.  Upon  the  strait  itself  he  bestowed  the  title  "  Vi- 
torio,"  the  name  of  one  of  his  ships,  though  it  has  always  properly  been  known 
as  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  His  passage  through  them  of  thirty-six  days  was  a  tem- 
pestuous and  dangerous  one,  and  when  his  vessel's  prow  cleaved  the  waters  of  the  great 
unplowed  sea  on  the  twenty-seventh  of  November,  the  contrast  between  its  quiet  and 
smiling  waters  and  the  foam-lashed  breakers  of  the  tortuous  strait  was  so  great  and  so 
suggestive  that  he  bestowed  the  name  Pacific  upon  it.  This  circumstance  and  title  are 
recorded  in  an  account  of  the  voyage  written  in  Italian,  by  Antonio  Pigafretta,  after- 
ward Caviliere  di  Rhodi,  who  accompanied  the  great  explorer. 

Immediately  upon  entering  the  Pacific  ocean  Magellan  steered  to  the  northwest  to 
reach  a  warmer  climate,  crossed  the  line  February  13,  1521,  arrived  at  the  Ladrones 
March  6,  and  at  the  Philippines  on  the  sixteenth  of  the  same  month.  Here  he  was 
killed  in  a  battle  with  the  natives  April  27,  and  the  survivors  of  the  expedition,  num- 
bering 115  men,  continued  the  voyage  under  the  leadershij}  of  Caraballo.  They 
touched  at  Borneo  and  other  islands,  and  reached  the  goal  of  their  voyage,  the  Moluc- 
cas, on  the  eighth  of  November.  One  of  the  vessels,  the  Viforio,  in  command  of  Se- 
bastian del  Cano,  sailed  again  westward  from  the  Moluccas,  rounded  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  and  reached  San  Lucar  September  6,  1522,  with  only  eighteen  survivors  of  the 
265  who  started  upon  the  expedition,  having  been  gone  three  years  and  accomplished 
the  first  complete  circumnavigation  of  the  globe.  The  new  ocean  was  variously  known 
for  a  number  of  years  as  South  sea,  Magellan's  sea  and  Pacific  ocean,  the  last  title 
gradually  superseding  the  others  until  it  became  universal. 


m. 


.-f^ 


!i? 

i^i^r. 

I» 

=a 

§ji' '.' : '^ 

m 

•f-*;'' 

CO 

'•H?:' 

a 

'4^')'' 

m 

z 

« 

C3 

m 

a 
-n 

iff 

CD 

ft:> 

C-3 

p 

n 

i^';^'. ' 

m 

■'"/■• 

m 

cp 

<; 

PACIFIC   COAST.  13 

This  wonderful  voyage  naturally  altered  the  popular  idea  of  the  new  land  which 
Columbus  had  discovered.  Tlie  vast  extent  of  the  Pacific  ocean  and  its  apparently 
unlimited  stretch  to  the  northward  convinced  the  map  makers  that  their  former  idea 
was  erroneous,  and  that  the  new  land,  or  "  Novus  Mundus"  as  the  name  appears  on 
many  ancient  maps,  could  not  possibly  be  an  eastern  extension  of  Asia.  They  then 
came  to  believe  that  America  and  Novus  Mundus  were  united  by  the  Isthmus  of  Pan- 
ama to  form  an  entirely  new  continent,  and  that  the  true  Asia  lay  still  further  to  the 
west  across  the  new  ocean.  The  direct  and  natural  result  of  this  idea  was  a  belief  that 
a  passage  into  the  Pacific  could  be  discovered  by  sailing  around  the  north  end  of  No- 
vus Mundus  as  easily  as  Magellan  had  found  one  by  going  to  the  southward  of  America. 
In  fact  such  a  jjassage  as  this  was  supposed  to  have  been  discovered  in  the  year  1500 
by  the  Portuguese  navigator,  Gaspar  Cortereal,  the  first  explorer  of  the  coast  of  Labra- 
dor. He  passed  through  a  strait  into  a  sea  which  he  believed  and  reported  to  be  con- 
nected with  the  Indian  ocean.  This  mistaken  idea  was  not  so  proven  until  modern 
explorers  demonstrated  the  fact  that  no  such  passage  exists  south  of  the  ice-bound 
waters  of  the  Arctic  ocean.  He  had  in  fact  passed  through  the  straits  and  entered 
the  bay  afterwards  entered  and  named  by  Hudson  in  his  own  honor.  Upon  the  maps 
for  many  years  straits  of  this  character,  leading  indefinitely  westward,  were  marked 
and  called  Straits  of  Labrador  until  their  extent  and  the  character  of  the  sea  into 
which  they  led  were  revealed  by  the  later  explorations  of  Hudson  and  others.  The 
name  Cortereal  bestowed  upon  them,  however,  was  Straits  of  Anian,  though  what  was 
the  significance  of  the  title  has  never  been  satisfactorily  explained.  The  Straits  of 
Anian  seemed  in  later  years  to  become  entirely  disassociated  in  the  minds  of  explorers 
from  the  Straits  of  Labrador  or  Hudson,  and  the  universal  idea  of  them  seems  to  have 
been  that  of  a  narrow  passage  from  sea  to  sea,  between  the  continents  of  America  and 
Asia.  What  caused  this  peculiar  notion  it  is  impossible  to  state,  and  the  supposed 
passage  is  now  universally  referred  to  by  historians  as  the  "Fabulous  Straits  of  Anian." 
To  find  it  the  English,  French  and  Spanish  searched  diligently  along  the  Atlantic 
coast,  while  the  Spaniards,  alone,  sailing  northward  from  the  Pacific  coast  of  Mexico, 
explored  along  our  western  shore  for  more  than  two  centuries  before  the  belief  in  its 
existence  was  finally  abandoned. 

Leaving  the  former  and  the  results  of  their  voyages  to  be  referred  to  briefiy  further 
on,  let  us  turn  our  attention  to  those  voyages  in  the  Pacific  which  made  known  to  the 
world  the  geography  of  the  northern  Pacific  coast. 


CHAPTER  II. 

EARLY  EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  NORTHWEST. 

Cortes  Conquers  Mexico  and  Turns  his  Eyes  towards  California— He  Hopes  to  Reach  the  Indies  by  following 
the  Coast— California  Discovered  by  Ximenes— Cortez  Undertakes  its  Conquest— Tale  of  the  Florida  Refu- 
gees—Voyage of  UUoa— Wonderful  Story  of  Friar  Marcas  -  Coronado  seeks  Cibola  and  Quivira— Voyage 
of  Cabrillo  and  Ferrelo. 

Immediately  followiug  the  first  discoveries  by  Columbus,  Spain  began  to  plant 
colonies  in  the  West  India  islands.  Her  enlightened  sovereigns,  Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella, proposed  to  open  at  once  the  great  storehouse  of  wealth  this  new  land  was  popu- 
larly supposed  to  be.  Gold  and  jewels  were  procured  from  the  natives  by  every  possi- 
ble means,  including  cheating  in  trade  and  conquest  by  the  sword,  and  sent  back  to 
enrich  the  mother  country.  The  same  year  that  saw  Magellan  set  sail  upon  his  voyage 
around  the  globe,  witnessed  the  inauguration  of  another  enterprise  fraught  with  great 
results  to  the  future  of  America.  Hernando  de  Cortes  entered  Mexico  with  the  sword 
in  one  hand  and  bible  in  the  other,  bent  upon  winning  riches  and  power  for  himself 
and  His  Most  Catholic  Majesty,  the  King  of  Spain,  and  impressing  upon  the  heathen 
Aztecs  the  beauties  of  the  ChrLstian  religion  with  musketry  and  cannon.  The  details 
of  his  bloody  conquest  it  is  needless  to  relate. 

Having  subjugated  Mexico  and  overturned  in  blood  the  throne  of  the  Montezumas, 
Cortes  looked  westward  for  more  countries  to  subdue  and  plunder  of  their  accumu- 
lated wealth.  On  the  fifteenth  of  October,  1524,  he  wrote  to  Spain's  most  powerful 
monarch,  Charles  V,  that  he  was  upon  the  eve  of  entering  upon  the  conquest  of  Co- 
lima,  a  country  bordering  on  the  South  sea  (Pacific  ocean),  and  that  the  great  men 
there  had  given  him  information  of  "an  island  of  Amazons,  or  women  only,  abound- 
ing in  pearls  and  gold,  lying  ten  days'  journey  from  Colima."  Though  Colima  is  the 
name  of  one  of  the  j^resent  states  of  Mexico,  there  is  but  little  doubt  that  Cortes  re- 
ferred to  Lower  California.  This  was  the  opinion  of  Miguel  Venengas,  who  wrote  in 
1749:  "The  account  of  the  pearls  inclines  me  to  think  that  these  were  the  first  inti- 
mations we  had  of  California  and  its  gulf" 

The  idea  held  by  Cortes  was  that  possessed  by  geographers  generally,  that  Amer- 
ica, if  not  an  actual  portion  of  Asia,  into  which  the  Pacific  projected  a  long  distance 
northward,  was  at  least  separated  from  that  ancient  continent  simply  by  a  narrow 
strait ;  and  this  idea,  though  founded  simply  upon  theory,  was  wonderfully  correct. 
It  was  his  plan  to  sail  northward,  along  the  coast  until  the  Straits  of  Anian  were 
encountered,  or  failing  in  that,  to  continue  westward  and  southward  until  he  reached 
the  rich  lauds  of  India.  The  fatal  defect  in  this  theory  was  in  not  ascribing  to  the 
Pacific  ocean  and  the  American  continent  the  magnificent  proportions  they  were  in 
after  years  found  to  possess. 


PACIFIC   COAST.  15 

At  the  time  Cortes  wrote  his  letter  the  Pacific  coast  had  been  several  times  explored 
from  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  as  far  northward  as  350  leagues  from  that  point.  In 
1522  he  began  the  construction  of  several  vessels  at  Zacatula  to  carry  out  his  ideas, 
and  in  1526  they  were  joined  by  a  vessel  which  had  come  through  the  Straits  of 
Magellan.  In  1527  three  of  these  vessels  were  completed  and  made  a  short  voyage 
along  the  coast ;  but  orders  came  from  Spain  to  send  them  to  India  by  a  direct  route 
across  the  ocean  instead  of  the  long  way  along  the  coast  proposed  by  Cortes.  Other 
ships  were  begun  at  Tehuantepec,  but  rotted  on  the  stocks  while  the  great  conqueror 
was  in  Spain.  In  1530  he  began  the  construction  of  others.  Finally,  in  1532,  he 
dispatched  two  vessels  from  Acapulco,  reaching  as  far  north  as  Sinaloa,  both  being 
wrecked  at  different  points,  and  their  commanders  and  all  but  a  few  of  the  men  slain 
by  the  natives.  The  next  year  two  more  vessels  were  dispatched  from  Tehuantepec, 
one  of  which  accomplished  nothing.  The  crew  of  the  other  one  mutinied  and  killed 
their  commander,  Becerra,  and  continued  the  voyage  under  the  pilot,  Fortuno  Xim- 
enes,  landing  upon  the  extreme  southern  point  of  the  peninsula  of  California,  in  1534, 
where  Ximenes  and  twenty  of  his  men  were  slain  in  an  encounter  with  the  natives. 
The  survivors  succeeded  in  navigating  the  vessel  back  to  the  main  land,  where  it  was 
seized  by  Nufio  de  Guzman,  the  governor  of  Northern  Mexico.  He  was  a  bitter 
enemy  of  Cortes,  and  his  rival  in  covering  the  advancing  pathway  of  civilization  with 
a  carpet  of  blood. 

To  resent  this  insult,  Cortes  sent  three  vessels  northward  by  sea,  and  started  him- 
self, by  land,  at  the  head  of  a  considerable  body  of  troops.  He  changed  his  intention, 
however,  and  embarking  a  large  portion  of  his  force  upon  the  vessels  which  had  met 
him  at  Chiametla,  he  set  sail  for  the  new  country  discovered  to  the  west  by  Ximenes, 
which  was  said  to  abound  in  the  finest  of  pearls.  On  the  third  of  May,  1535,  his 
little  squadron  came  to  anchor  in  the  bay  where  the  mutineers  had  met  their  fate  the 
year  before,  and  in  honor  of  the  day,  which  was  that  of  the  Holy  Cross  in  the  Koman 
Catholic  calendar,  he  bestowed  upon  it  the  name  of  Santa  Cruz.  This  was  probably 
the  one  now  known  as  Port  La  Paz.  To  this  body  of  land  the  name  of  California 
was  soon  after  given,  though  by  whom,  for  what  reason  and  what  is  the  significance 
of  the  title  remain  perplexing  questions  to  the  present  day,  and  this  name  gradually 
expanded  in  its  application  until  in  after  years  it  signified  the  entire  Spanish  pos- 
sessions on  the  Pacific  coast,  that  portion  above  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  being 
known  as  Alta  California. 

Cortes  landed  upon  this  barren  and  inhospitable  coast  with  130  men  and  forty 
horses,  with  visions  of  conquest  floating  before  his  mind.  He  hoped  to  find  in  this 
new  country  another  Mexico  to  yield  its  vast  stores  of  gold,  pearls  and  ornaments  into 
his  bloody  hands.  Two  of  his  vessels  were  at  once  sent  to  Chiametla  for  the  remain- 
der of  his  troops,  and  returned  with  but  a  portion  of  them.  They  were  again  dis- 
patched upon  the  same  errand,  one  only  returning,  the  other  having  gone  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  sea.  Cortes  then  went  to  the  Mexican  coast  in  person,  returning  to  Santa 
Cruz  just  in  time  to  rescue  those  he  had  left  there  from  death  by  starvation.  More 
than  a  year's  time  had  now  been  fruitlessly  squandered,  and  explorations  inland  had 
revealed  the  fact  that  the  land  was  utterly  barren  and  worthless.  With  the  exception 
of  a  few  i)earls  on  the  coast,  the  Spaniards  had  found  nothing  to  tempt  their  cupidity. 


IG  PACIFIC   COAST. 

the  great  controlling  power  which  bound  them  together  and  made  them  subservient  to 
discipline.  Many  had  died  and  the  remainder  were  mutinous.  In  the  meantime  the 
wife  of  Cortes,  hearing  of  his  ill  success,  sent  a  vessel  to  Santa  Cruz  with  letters,  im- 
ploring him  to  abandon  his  enterprise  and  return.  News  came  at  the  same  time  that 
a  Spanish  nobleman  of  high  rank,  Don  Antonio  de  Mendoza,  had  been  appointed  to 
supersede  him  as  viceroy  of  New  Spain,  and  had  already  installed  himself  in  office  in 
the  city  of  Mexico.  He  hastened  to  the  mainland,  leaving  a  portion  of  his  forces 
still  at  Santa  Cruz,  under  the  command  of  Francisco  de  Ulloa ;  but  finding  his  author- 
ity in  New  Spain  entirely  gone  and  being  much  embarrassed  financially  by  the  ex- 
penses of  his  unprofitable  venture,  he  sent  word  to  Ulloa  to  return,  and  in  1537  the 
sandy  deserts  of  Lower  California  were  abandoned  by  the  ragged  remnant  of  that 
little  army  of  adventurers  who  had  entered  it  with  such  high  hopes  two  years  before. 

About  this  time  there  arrived  in  Mexico  four  wandering  refugees  whose  story  had 
much  to  do  with  the  nature  of  explorations  for  the  next  few  years.  They  were  Alvaro 
Nuiiez  de  Cabeza-Vaca,  two  other  Spaniards  and  a  Negro  or  Moor.  They  had  landed 
in  Florida  in  1527  with  a  plundering  expedition  that  invaded  that  portion  of  the 
coast  under  Panfilo  Narvaez.  The  company  was  almost  exterminated  by  shipwreck, 
famine  and  battle,  and  these  four  survivors  wandered  for  nine  years  through  the  inter- 
ior of  the  region  bordering  upon  the  gulf  until  they  finally  arrived  in  Mexico.  Thej^ 
had  encountered  no  civilized  or  wealthy  nations  in  their  long  journey,  but  had  been 
informed,  at  various  places,  of  populous  countries  inhabited  by  rich  and  civilized 
races  further  to  the  northwest. 

Mendoza  was  moved  by  these  stories  to  invade  the  northwest.  It  was  the  civilized 
nations  the  Spaniards  were  eager  to  subdue ;  not  because  their  conquest  afforded  them 
more  honor  in  a  military  sense,  for  their  warfare  was  but  a  series  of  bloody  butcheries 
of  unwarlike  races  whose  undisciplined  and  unprotected  masses,  armed  simply  with 
spears,  were  mowed  down  like  grain  by  the  cannon,  musketry  and  steel  of  the  mailed 
warriors  of  Spain  ;  but  because  these  civilized  nations  jaossessed  the  great  stores  of 
gold  and  precious  jewels  which  were  the  loadstone  that  drew  these  representatives  of 
European  -chivalry  to  the  New  World.  The  viceroy  organized  a  body  of  fifty  horse- 
men for  the  purpose  of  invading  this  new  country,  and  then  abandoned  the  idea,  send- 
ing, instead,  two  friars  and  the  Moor  to  explore  and  report  the  true  facts  of  the  case 
before  he  ventured  upon  more  extensive  efforts. 

They  departed  in  March,  1539,  and  on  the  eighth  of  the  following  July,  Cortes,  who 
still  claimed  the  right  of  exploration  into  the  unknown  ocean  and  government  over 
all  lands  discovered,  having  again  equipped  three  vessels,  sent  them  from  Acapulco 
under  the  command  of  Ulloa.  One  of  these  was  soon  wrecked  in  a  severe  storm,  and 
the  other  two  proceeded  to  Santa  Cruz  bay  and  then  coasted  along  Lower  California 
and  Mexico,  completely  around  the  gulf  that  lies  between  them,  failing,  however,  to 
notice  the  mouth  of  the  great  Colorado  river.  This  voyage  settled  many  geographi- 
cal questions,  and  the  gulf  was  named  by  Ulloa  the  Sea  of  Cortes,  though  it  was  gen- 
erally marked  on  Spanish  majis  as  the  Vermilion  sea,  and  on  those  of  other  nations  as 
the  Gulf  of  California.  On  the  twenty-ninth  of  October,  of  the  same  year,  Ulloa  again 
sailed  from  Santa  Cruz,  whither  he  had  returned  at  the  conclusion  of  his  last  voyage, 
and  sought  to  examine  the  coast  westward  as  he  had  to  the  east.     Passing  around  the 


PACIFIC   COAST.  17 

Ciiyie,  now  called  San  Luca^^,  he  sailed  slowly  northward  until  about  the  first  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1540,  he  reached  an  island  near  the  coast  in  latitude  28°,  which  he  named  Isle 
of  Cedars.  Headwinds  and  sickness  held  him  here  until  April,  and  then  the  same 
causes,  coupled  with  a  lack  of  provisions,  compelled  him  to  abandon  his  purpose  of 
proceeding  further  northward. 

This  voyage  attracted  but  little  attention,  so  absorbed  were  the  mercenary  adven- 
turers in  Mexico  in  the  report  of  Friar  Marcas  de  Niza  of  the  wonderful  things  dis- 
covered by  him  and  his  comjianions  in  the  new  region  whither  they  had  been  sent  by 
Mendoza. 

From  these  accounts,  as  contained  in  the  letter  addressed  to  the  viceroy  by  Father 
Marcas,  and  from  other  evidence,  it  is  probable  that  the  reverend  explorer  did  really 
penetrate  to  a  considerable  distance  into  the  interior  of  the  continent,  and  did  find 
there  countries  partially  cultivated,  and  inhabited  by  people  possessing  some  acquaint- 
ance with  the  arts  of  civilized  life ;  though  as  to  the  precise  situation  of  those  regions, 
or  the  routes  pursued  in  reaching  them,  no  definite  idea  can  be  derived  from  the 
narrative.  The  friar  pretended  to  have  discovered,  northwest  of  Mexico,  beyond  the 
thirty-fifth  degree  of  latitude,  extensive  territories,  richly  cultivated,  and  abounding  in 
gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones,  the  population  of  which  was  much  greater,  and  further 
advanced  in  civilization,  than  those  of  Mexico  or  Peru.  In  these  countries  were  many 
towns,  and  seven  cities,  of  which  the  friar  only  saw  one,  called  Gevola  or  Cibola,  con- 
taining twenty  thousand  large  stone  houses,  some  of  four  stories,  and  adorned  with 
jewels  ;  yet  he  was  assured,  by  the  people,  that  this  was  the  smallest  of  the  cities,  and 
far  inferior,  in  extent  and  magnificence,  to  one  called  Totonteac,  situated  more  towards 
the  northwest.  The  inhabitants  of  Cibola  had,  at  first,  been  hostile  to  the  Spaniards, 
and  had  killed  the  Negro ;  but  they  had,  in  the  end,  manifested  a  disposition  to  em- 
brace Christianity,  and  to  submit  to  the  authority  of  the  King  of  Spain,  in  whose 
name  Friar  Marcas  had  taken  possession  of  the  whole  country,  by  secretly  erecting 
crosses  in  many  places. 

Such  was  the  account  of  the  worthy  friar,  but  the  reverend  gentleman  drew  en- 
tirely too  long  a  bow.  That  such  a  civilization  could  have  existed  there  in  the  six- 
teenth century  and  have  completely  disappeared  from  view  by  the  eighteenth,  is  too 
improbable  to  be  credited.  The  ancient  ruins  of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico  and  the 
customs  and  traditions  of  the  Zuni  and  Moquis  Indians,  confirm  the  opinion  that  a 
semi-civilized  race  inhabited  that  region  centuries  ago  ;  but  nothing  has  been  discov- 
ered pointing  to  such  dense  population,  cities  of  "  twenty  thousand  large  stone  houses," 
or  such  wealth  and  civilization  as  the  friar  claimed  to  have  observed.  The  probability 
is  that,  encountering  a  semi-civilized  race,  and  desiring  to  spread  among  them  the 
beauties  of  the  Christian  religion,  he  told  these  exaggerated  stories  to  the  viceroy  in 
order  to  induce  him  to  invade  and  subdue  this  new  country,  for  in  those  days  the 
jjathway  for  the  bible  was  hewn  by  the  sword.  Related  by  a  respectable  priest  who 
claimed  to  have  himself  witnessed  the  wonders  he  portrayed,  the  story  was  fully  cred- 
ited, and  Mendoza  sent  a  combined  land  and  sea  expedition  to  reconnoitre  and  ojien 
the  way  for  a  complete  con(|uest  of  this  great  nation. 

The  marine  portion,  under  the  command  of  Fernando  do  Alarcoii,  sailed  fiom 
Santiago  INIay '.»,  15-10,  and  discovered  and  entered  the  Colorado  river  in  August,  which 


18  PACIFIC   COAST. 

was  then  named  Rio  de  Xi(estm  Sonora  de  Buena  Guia, inhonov  of  the  viceroy,  whose 
shield  bore  the  above  inscription.  Alarcon  ascended  the  stream  in  boats  a  distance  of 
eighty  leagues,  inquiring  diligently  for  the  seven  great  cities.  From  the  Indians  he 
received  many  confusing  accounts  of  wonderful  riches  and  remarkable  objects  to  be 
found  in  the  interior,  accounts  no  doubt  similar  to  those  which  had  been  the  founda- 
tion of  Friar  Marcas'  wonderful  tale.     Completely  baffled  he  returned  to  Mexico. 

The  land  forces,  consisting  of  cavalry,  infantry  and  priests,  a  perfect  complement 
for  the  conversion  of  stubborn  heathen,  were  under  the  command  of  a  resolute  soldier 
named  Francisco  Vasquez  de  Coronado,  a  man  intensely  practical  and  unaccustomed 
to  drawing  n^on  his  imagination  when  relating  facts.  After  traversing  many  miles  of 
desert  and  mountain  they  reached  a  country  for  which  Cibola  appeared  to  be  the  gen- 
eral name,  though  it  was  found  to  be  entirely  devoid  of  the  refinement  and  riches 
reported  by  Friar  Marcas.  The  seven  cities  proved  to  be  seven  small  villages,  thinly 
inhabited  by  a  race  but  little  removed  from  a  savage  state.  The  climate  was  agreeable 
and  the  soil  very  fertile.  Large  stone  houses,  rudely  built  and  unornameuted,  were 
found,  which  were  later  called  cases  gnuides  de  los  Azteques  (gi'eat  houses  of  the  Az- 
tecs) by  the  Sjianish  settlers,  upon  the  theory  that  they  had  been  erected  by  the  Aztecs 
while  living  in  that  region  prior  to  their  invasion  of  Mexico.  Coronado  left  Cibola  in 
disgust  and  proceeded  further  towards  the  northwest,  wandering  for  two  years  hither 
and  thither  in  search  of  the  many  fabulously  rich  countries  the  Indians  were  con- 
stantly informing  him  were  to  be  found  somewhere  else.  Quivira  in  particular  was 
the  object  of  great  solicitude  because  of  the  reported  wealth  of  its  monarch  ;  but  when 
he  reached  it  in  latitude  40°,  it  proved  to  be  a  buffalo  country  and  its  inhabitants  sim- 
ply a  race  of  hunters.  If  the  latitude  is  correct,  he  must  have  penetrated  as  far  north 
as  the  Platte  or  headwaters  of  the  Arkansas.  He  returned  to  Mexico  in  1543  with 
his  faith  in  Indian  stories  shaken  to  its  foundation  stones.  - 

The  next  effort  to  explore  the  western  coast  was  made  in  1542,  when  Mendoza  dis- 
patched Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo  with  two  vessels  in  search  of  the  Straits  of  Anian. 
Cabrillo  examined  the  coast  as  far  north  as  the  38th  degree  of  latitude,  when  he  was 
driven  back  by  a  storm  and  forced  to  take  refuge  in  a  harbor  called  by  him  Port  Pos- 
session, in  the  island  of  San  Bernardino,  in  latitude  34°.  Here  he  died  January  3, 
1543,  and  the  jjilot,  Bartolome  Ferrelo,  took  command  and  resumed  the  voyage  north- 
ward. He  discovered  near  latitude  41°  a  cape  which  he  named  Cabo  de  Fortunas  (Cape 
of  Perils),  being  no  doubt  the  one  subsequently  named  Mendocino  in  honor  of  the 
viceroy,  Mendoza.  The  furthest  point  northward  reached  by  Ferrelo  on  the  first  of 
March,  1540,  is  given  by  some  authorities  as  44°  and  others  43°,  either  of  which 
would  be  off  the  coast  of  Oregon ;  and  to  this  little  vessel-load  of  adventurous  men, 
half  clothed,  living  upon  short  allowance  of  food,  and  afflicted  with  scur^s-y,  must  be 
given  the  credit  of  making  the  first  discovery  of  the  coast  of  Oregon,  the  prize  for 
Avhich  great  nations  dis2:)uted  for  centuries. 


CHAPTER  HI. 

SEARCH  FOR  THE  MYTHICAL  STRAITS  OF  ANIAN. 

Spain  Abandons  the  Effort- Growth  of  the  East  India  Trade  -Voyag-e  of  Sir  Francis  Drake— The  Bay  of  San 
Francisco— Rev.  Fletcher's  Romances  -Other  Freebooters  Invade  the  Pacific— Maldonado's  Description  of 
the  Straits  of  Anian— Voyage  of  Juan  de  Fuca— Its  Authenticity  Discussed— Admiral  Fonte's  Voyage— Rio 
de  los  Reyes. 

The  return  of  Ferrelo  from  his  voyage  along  the  coast,  of  Corouado  from  his  ex- 
plorations inland,  and  of  the  few  survivors  of  DeSoto's  expedition  through  Florida  to 
the  Mississippi,  conclusively  proved  that  "  neither  wealthy  nations  nor  navigable  pas- 
sages of  communication  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans,  were  to  be  found  north 
of  Mexico,  unless  beyond  the  40th  parallel  of  latitude."  Having  established  this 
fact,  the  Spaniards  desisted  from  their  attempts  to  explore  to  the  northwest  of  Mexico, 
or  to  search  for  the  Straits  of  Anian.  The  fact  was  that  the  discovery  of  such  a  pas- 
sage between  the  two  oceans  was  now  looked  upon  as  undesirable  by  them,  in  view  of 
the  valuable  trade  they  had  established  with  the  east. 

From  being  the  most  energetic  in  searching  for  the  Straits  of  Anian,  the  Span- 
iards suddenly  became  extremely  apathetic  to  outward  appearance,  but  were  by  no 
means  so  actually.  Their  interest  in  that  supposititious  passage  was  as  lively  as  ever, 
and  they  were  now  even  more  anxious  that  it  should  not  be  discovered  at  all  than  they 
had  formerly  been  to  find  it.     The  reason  for  this  change  of  ideas  is  very  simple. 

Spain  was  now  the  complete  master  of  Central  America,  Mexico  and  the  West 
India  islands,  which  formed  an  important  and  almost  vitally  necessary  intermediate 
station  between  Europe  and  the  Indies,  a  j^oint  of  advantage  which  no  other  nation 
possessed.  While  she  was  securing  this  important  foothold  in  the  New  World,  Portugal 
had  bent  her  energies  upon  opening  a  trade  with  the  Indies  by  way  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  and  had  succeeded  in  establishing  a  most  valuable  commerce  with  that 
rich  and  populous  region,  which  Spain  viewed  with  envious  eyes.  She  turned  her 
attention  from  the  coast  of  America,  and  dispatched  several  armed  fleets  across  the  Pa- 
cific to  obtain  lodgment  in  the  Indies.  After  several  unsuccessful  attempts  the  Phil- 
ippine islands  were  subjugated  in  1564,  and  the  practicability  of  crossing  the  Pacific 
in  both  directions,  which  had  at  first  been  doubted  because  all  efforts  to  return  had 
been  made  in  the  region  of  the  trade  winds,  established  beyond  cavil.  In  a  few  years 
Spain's  commerce  on  the  Pacific  became  extremely  important.  Annually  large  vessels 
sailed  from  Central  America  with  gold  and  merchandise,  which  were  bartered  for 
spices,  silks  and  porcelain  in  the  Philippine  islands  and  China.  These  were  landed  at 
the  Isthmus  of  Panama  and  transported  across  to  vessels  in  waiting  to  convey  them  to 
Spain.     A  larae  trade  was  also  carried  on  alone  the  coast  to  Peru  and  Chili. 


20  PACIFIC   COAST. 

ExemjDtion  from  interference  by  rival  nations  was  the  secret  of  the  immense 
growth  of  this  India  trade.  The  annual  galleon  from  India  was  loaded  with  a  cargo 
of  immense  value,  and  yet  the  ship  bore  no  armament  for  defense.  No  flag  but  that 
of  Spain  fluttered  over  Pacific  waters,  and  there  was  no  need  of  cannons.  It  was  in 
expectation  of  this  condition  of  affairs  that  Spain  ceased  her  efforts  to  find  the  Straits 
of  Anian.  The  discovery  of  such  a  passage  would  be  most  calamitous.  Through  it 
could  come  hostile  ships  of  war  and  •  the  freebooters  who  were  wont  in  those  days  to 
roam  the  high  seas  in  search  of  plunder,  and  prey  upon  the  defenseless  commerce  of 
the  Pacific.  The  length  and  precarious  nature  of  the  voyage  into  the  Pacific  through 
the  Straits  of  Magellan,  served  to  keep  that  ocean  for  many  years  free  from  hostile 
ships. 

This  exemption  from  outside  interference  could  not  last  forever.  Spain  arro- 
gantly claimed  dominion  over  and  the  exclusive  right  of  trade  with  all  regions  that 
had  been  even  technically  discovered  by  Spanish  navigators,  even  if  no  settlement  of 
any  kind  had  been  attempted.  Foreigners  of  all  nations  were  prohibited  under  pain 
of  death,  from  having  any  intercourse  whatever  with  the  territories  claimed  by  the 
Castilian  monai'ch,  or  from  navigating  the  waters  adjacent  to  them.  To  such  pre- 
sumptuous conduct  as  this  neither  England  nor  France  would  submit.  They  willingly 
respected  all  rights  of  dominion  acquired  by  actual  settlement,  but  this  sweeping  claim 
to  exclusive  control  of  almost  the  entire  New  World  they  would  not  countenance  for  an 
instant.  The  result  was  that  English,  French  and  Dutch  "  free  traders"  made  sad 
havoc  with  the  Spanish  shipping  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  America ;  and  though  the 
nations  were  at  peace,  these  plundering  expeditions  were  winked  at  by  the  sovereigns, 
who  often  directly  and  always  indirectly  received  their  share  of  the  booty. 

These  roving  marauders  made  great  exertions  to  discover  a  northern  passage  into 
the  Pacific,  urged  on  by  the  reports  constantly  received  of  the  wonderful  richness  of 
the  East  Indian  commerce  of  Spain.  These  reports  at  last  overcame  the  fears  of 
English  seamen,  and  they  invaded  the  Pacific  by  the  passage  of  Magellan's  tempestu- 
ous straits. 

There  was  one  bolder  and  more  reckless,  more  ambitious  and  successful  than  the 
others,  who  won  the  reputation  of  being  the  "  King  of  the  Sea."  In  1578,  he  thus 
passed  into  the  Pacific  with  three  vessels,  and  scattered  terror  and  devastation  among 
the  Spanish  shipping  along  the  coast.  He  captured  the  East  Indian  galleon,  on  her 
Avay  home  loaded  with  wealth,  levied  contributions  in  the  ports  of  Mexico,  and,  finally, 
with  his  one  remaining  vessel  freighted  with  captured  treasures,  sailed  north  to  search 
for  the  Straits  of  Anian.  Through  it  he  proposed  passing  home  to  England,  and  thus 
avoid  a  combat  with  the  fleets  of  Spain,  that  lay  in  wait  for  him  off  the  Straits  of 
Magellan.  His  name  was  Captain  Francis  Drake ;  but  afterwards  the  English  mon- 
arch knighted  him  for  becoming  the  most  successful  robber  on  the  high  seas,  and  now 
the  historian  records  the  name  as  Sir  Francis  Drake.  When  near  the  mouth  of  Ump- 
qua  river,  in  Oregon,  he  ran  his  vessel  into  a  "poor  harbor,"  put  his  Spanish  pilot, 
Morera,  ashore,  and  left  him  to  find  his  way  back,  thirty-five  hundred  miles,  through 
an  unknown  country  thickly  populated  with  savages,  to  his  home  in  Mexico.  This 
feat  must  have  been  accomplished,  as  the  only  account  existing  of  the  fact  comes 
through  Spanish   records,  showing  that  he  survived  the  expedition    to  have  told   the 


PACIFIC    COAST.  21 

result.  Drake  then  continued  his  voyage  until  he  had  reached  about  latitude 
43°,  when  the  cold  weather,  although  it  was  after  the  fifth  of  June,  forced  him  to 
abandon  the  hope  of  discovering  the  mythical  straits.  The  chaplain  who  accompanied 
the  expedition,  being  the  historian  of  the  voyage,  says  of  the  cold,  that  their  hands 
were  numbed,  and  meat  would  feeze  when  taken  from  the  fire,  and  when  they 
were  lying-to  in  the  harbor  at  Drake's  bay,  a  few  miles  up  the  coast  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, the  snow  covered  the  low  hills.  He  then  evaded  the  Spanish  fleet  by  crossing 
the  Pacific  and  returning  to  England  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  P'or  a  long  time  it 
was  believed  that  Sir  Francis  Drake  discovered  the  bay  of  San  Francisco ;  that  it  was 
in  its  waters  he  cast  anchor  for  thirty-six  days,  after  having  been  forced  back  along 
the  coast  by  adverse  winds ;  but  now  it  is  generally  conceded  that  he  is  not  entitled 
to  that  distinction.  Who  discovered  that  harbor,  or  when  the  discovery  was  made, 
will  probably  never  be  known.  What  clothes  it  in  mystery  is,  that  the  oldest  chart 
or  map  of  the  Pacific  coast  known,  on  which  a  bay  resembling  in  any  way  that  of  San 
Francisco  at  or  near  the  proper  point,  was  a  sailing-chart  found  in  the  East  Indian 
galleon  captured  in  1742,  by  Anson,  an  English  commodore,  with  all  her  treasure, 
amounting  to  one  and  a  half  million  dollars.  Upon  this  chart  there  appeared  seven 
little  dots,  marked  "  Los  Farallones,"  and  opposite  these  was  a  land-locked  bay  that 
resembled  San  Francisco  harbor,  but  on  the  chart  it  bore  no  name.  This  is  the  oldest 
existing  evidence  of  the  discovery  of  the  finest  harbor  in  the  world,  and  it  proves  two 
things :  first,  that  its  existence  was  known  previous  to  that  date ,  second,  that  the 
knowledge  was  possessed  by  the  Spanish  Manilla  merchants  to  whom  the  chart  and 
galleon  belonged.  Their  vessels  had  been  not  unfrequently  wrecked  upon  our  coasts 
as  far  north  as  Cape  Mendocino;  and  as  Venegas,  writing  sixteen  years  later,  says 
nothing  of  such  a  harbor,  we  are  led  to  believe  that  its  existence  was  possibly  only 
known  to  those  East  India  merchants,  and  was  kept  a  secret  by  them  for  fear  that  its 
favorable  location  and  adaptation  would  render  it  a  resort  for  pirates  and  war-ships  of 
rival  nations  to  prey  upon  their  commerce. 

With  Sir  Francis  Drake,  unquestionably,  lies  the  honor  of  having  been  the  first 
European  to  actually  land  upon  the  coast  of  California.  The  account  of  that  event, 
given  by  Rev.  Fletcher,  the  chaplain  of  the  expedition,  states  that  the  nativeS;  having 
mistaken  them  for  gods,  offered  sacrifices  to  them,  and  that,  to  dispel  the  illusion,  they 
])roceeded  to  offer  up  their  own  devotions  to  a  Supreme  Being.  The  narrative  goes  on 
to  relate  that — 

Our  necessarie  business  being  ended,  our  General,  with  his  companie,  travailed  up  into  the 
countrey  to  their  villiages,  where  we  found  heardes  of  deere  by  1,000  in  a  companie,  being  most 
large  and  fat  of  bodie.  We  found  the  whole  countrey  to  be  a  warren  of  strange  kinde  of  connies; 
their  bodies  in  bigness  as  be  the  Barbarie  connies,  their  heads  as  the  heads  of  ours,  the  feet  of  a 
Want  [mole]  and  the  taile  of  a  rat,  being  of  great  length  ;  under  her  chinne  on  either  side  a  bagge, 
into  which  she  gathered  her  uieate,  when  she  hath  filled  her  bellie,  abroad.  The  peojjle  do  eat 
their  bodies,  and  make  accompt  for  their  skinnes,  for  their  King's  coat  was  made  out  of  them. 
[The  farmer  will  readily  recognize  the  little  burrowing  squirrel  that  ruins  his  fields  of  alfalfa,  where 
the  ground  cannot  be  overflowed  to  drown  them.]  Our  General  called  this  countrey  Nova  Albion, 
and  that  for  two  causes :  the  one  in  respect  to  the  white  baukes  and  cliftes  which  lie  toward  the 
sea;  and  the  other  because  it  might  have  some  aifiuitie  with  our  countrey  in  name,  which  some- 
times was  so  called. 


22  PACIFIC   COAST. 

There  is  no  part  of  earth  here  to  be  taken  ujj,  wherein  there  is  not  a  reasonable  quantitie  of 
gold  or  silver.  Before  sailing  away,  our  General  set  up  a  monument  of  our  being  there,  as  also  of 
her  majestie's  right  and  title  to  the  same,  viz:  a  plate  nailed  upon  a  faire  great  poste,  whereupon 
was  engraved  her  majestie's  name,  the  day  and  yeare  of  our  arrival  there,  with  the  free  giving  up 
of  the  province  and  people  into  her  majestie's  hands,  together  with  her  highness'  picture  and  arms, 
in  a  piece  of  five  jjence  of  current  English  money  under  the  plate,  whereunder  was  also  written 
the  name  of  our  General. 

It  is  claimed  by  some  English  historians  that  Drake  jjroceeded  as  far  north  as 
latitude  48° ;  but  as  the  claim  is  founded  simply  upon  the  word  of  this  lying  chaplain 
and  is  utterly  inconsistent  with  other  statements  in  the  same  narrative  and  is  entirely 
at  variance  with  an  account  of  the  voyage  Avritten  by  Francis  Pretty,  one  of  the  crew, 
and  published  within  a  few  years  after  his  return,  it  is  worthy  of  but  little  considera- 
tion. Fletcher's  account  was  published  by  a  second  party  in  1652,  seventy  years 
later  and  long  after  the  death  of  every  man  who  could  personally  dispute  its  assertions, 
and  bears  no  marks  of  authenticity.  Many  passages  are  taken  bodily  from  Pretty's 
narrative,  which  seems  to  have  been  the  foundation  upon  which  a  tissue  of  falsehood 
and  absurdities  was  erected.  The  assertion  that  snow  covered  the  hills  about  San 
Francisco  in  the  mouth  of  June  and  that  meat  froze  upon  being  taken  from  the  fire, 
is  enough  to  condemn  it  all  in  the  mind  of  anyone  familiar  with  the  fact  that  snow 
seldom  falls  there  even  in  winter,  and  that  meat  never  freezes  at  any  season  of  the 
year.  These  facts  are  important ;  for  if  Drake  went  to  the  48th  degree,  he  must  have 
coasted  along  Oregon  and  Washington  nearly  to  the  Straits  of  Fuca ;  but  if  not,  then 
his  furthest  point  northward  was  ofi"  the  mouth  of  the  Umj)qua,  no  -further  than 
Ferrelo  had  gone  in  1543.     To  the  latter  opinion  the  best  authorities  hold. 

Other  English  freebooters,  encouraged  b}'  the  dazzling  success  of  Drake,  followed 
his  example,  and  for  years  Spain's  commerce  in  the  Pacific  suffered  many  ravages  at 
their  hands.  Meanwhile  the  English  and  Dutch  navigators  continued  their  efforts  to 
discover  the  northwest  passage,  while  the  Spanish  government  was  constantly  excited 
and  alarmed  for  fear  these  indefatigable  searchers  would  be  rewarded  with  success. 
Eumors  that  the  Straits  of  Anian  had  been  discovered  were  spread  from  time  to  time, 
creating  great  consternation  in  Spain,  Spanish  America  and  the  Philippine  islands. 
Several  navigators  pretended  to  have  passed  through  these  mythical  straits,  either  to 
give  themselves  importance  in  the  nautical  world,  or  to  secure  some  employment  in 
their  profession  or  emolument  for  the  valuable  services  they  thus  claimed  to  have 
rendered.  The  narrative  of  this  character  which  attracted  the  most  universal  atten- 
tion, was  one  of  a  voyage  which  was  no  doubt  entirely  fictitious,  claimed  to  have  been 
made  by  Captain  Lorenzo  Ferrer  de  Maldonado,  a  Portuguese,  and  related  by  him  in 
a  memorial  to  the  Spanish  Council  of  the  Indies,  wherein  he  petitiojied  for  a  remuner- 
ation for  his  valuable  services  and  a  commission  to  occupy  and  defend  the  passage 
against  the  ships  of  other  nations. 

In  his  narrative,  which  was  precise  and  careful  in  its  details,  were  given  all  the 
geographical  ideas  of  the  time  in  regard  to  the  regions  that  would  naturally  be  A'isited 
during  the  voyage  described,  nearly  all  of  which  have  since  been  proved  to  be  erron- 
eous. This  fact  is  conclusive  evidence  that  the  narrative  was  a  manufactured  one  and 
the  voyage  a  myth.     In  it  the  Straits  of  Anian  are  described  as  follows : 


PACIFIC    COAST.  -23 

The  Strait  of  Aniau  is  iiften  degrees  in  length,  and  can  easily  be  passed  with  a  tide  lasting  six 
hours;  for  those  tides  are  very  rapid.  There  are,  in  this  length,  six  turns  and  two  entrances,  which 
lie  north  and  south;  that  is,  bear  from  each  other  north  and  south.  The  entrance  on  the  north 
side  (through  which  we  passed)  is  less  than  half  a  quarter  of  a  league  in  width,  and  on  each  side 
are  ridges  of  high  rocks;  but  the  rock  on  the  side  of  Asia  is  higher  and  steejDer  than  the  other,  and 
hangs  over,  so  that  nothing  falling  from  the  top  can  reach  its  base.  [The  reader  must  bear  in  mind 
that  this  narrator  claims  the  previous  course  of  the  vessel  to  have  been  through  the  long  and  tor- 
tuous channel  of  the  Straits  of  Labrador  in  latitude  75^,  from  which  it  sailed  southwest  790  leagues 
to  the  entrance  of  these  straits  in  the  60th  parallel  of  latitude;  also  that  the  straits  were  supposed 
to  be  a  passage  between  Asia  on  the  west,  and  America  on  the  east,  leading  from  this  great  North 
sea  into  the  great  South  sea.]  The  entrance  into  the  South  sea,  near  the  harbor,  is  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  league  in  width,  and  thence  the  passage  runs  in  an  oblique  direction,  increasing  the 
distance  between  the  two  coasts.  In  the  middle  of  the  strait,  at  the  termination  of  the  third  turn, 
is  a  great  rock,  and  an  islet,  formed  by  a  rugged  rock,  three  estarf/a.s-  (11,000  feet)  in  height,  more 
or  less;  its  form  is  round  and  its  diameter  may  be  two  hundred  paces;  its  distance  from  the  land 
of  Asia  is  very  little;  but  the  sea  on  that  side  is  full  of  shoals  and  reefs,  and  can  only  be  navigated 
by  boats.  The  distance  between  this  islet  and  the  continent  of  America  is  less  than  a  quarter  of  a 
league  in  width;  and,  although  its  channel  is  so  deep  that  two  and  even  three  ships  might  sail 
almost  through  it,  two  bastions  might  be  built  on  the  banks  with  little  trouble,  which  would  con- 
tract the  channel  to  within  the  reach  of  a  musket  shot. 

Such  is  the  only  detailed  description  of  the  Straits  of  Anian,  and  it  is  thus  given 
in  full  because  of  the  effect  it  had  upon  maritime  explorations  for  two  centuries  there- 
after. The  author  was  evidently  well  posted  on  the  maps  and  geographical  theories  of 
the  day,  and  prepared  his  narrative  with  careful  consideration  of  them  ;  but  he  failed 
in  his  cunning  scheme,  as  the  Council  of  the  Indies  not  only  denied  his  petition  for  a 
reward,  but  also  declined  to  entrust  him  with  the  fortification  and  defense  of  the  valu- 
able passage  he  claimed  to  have  discovered.  That  to  this  story  there  was  a  foundation 
of  fact  is  within  the  limits  of  i^ossibility.  There  may  have  been  made  prior  to  the 
time  the  memorial  was  presented,  some  voyage  to  the  extreme  northern  Atlantic  coast 
of  America,  of  which  no  record  has  been  preserved.  To  have  made  the  voyage 
claimed  as  high  as  the  7oth  parallel  and  passed  through  long  straits  into  an  open  sea, 
traversing  this  southwest  790  leagues  (about  3,000  miles)  is  plainly  impossible.  That, 
like  Cortereal  nearly  a  century  before,  he  may  have  passed  around  the  coast  of  Labra- 
dor and  through  the  straits,  which  are  near  the  60th  parallel,  into  Hudson's  bay,  is 
possible ;  and, -like  his  great  predecessor,  he  may  have  assumed  that  this  sea  could  be 
followed  until  the  supposed  strait  leading  into  the  South  sea  was  found.  Believing 
thoroughly  in  this  theory,  Maldonado  may  have  written  this  fictitious  narrative  with 
the  hope  that  it  would  gain  for  him  the  command  of  an  expedition  to  go  in  search  of 
the  straits  and  take  possession  of  them.  One  thing  is  noticeable,  and  that  is  that  in 
Behring's  straits  we  find  the  old  theory  that  but  a  short  and  narrow  passage  separated 
Asia  arid  America  was  a  correct  one. 

The  next  supposed  discovery  of  the  Straits  of  Anian  which  attracted  nuicli  atten- 
tion, was  that  claimed  to  have  been  made  by  Juan  de  Fuca  while  in  the  Spanish  ser- 
vice in  the  Pacific  in  lo*J2.  The  only  account  or  record  of  this  voyage  was  published 
in  1025  in  the  celebrated  historical  and  geographical  volume  called  "The  Pilgrims," 
edited  by  Samuel  Purchas,  being  "A  note  made  by  Michael  Lock,  the  elder,  touching 
the  Strait  of  Sea  commonly  called  Fretum  Anian,  in  the  South  Sea,  through  the 
Northwest  Passage  of  Meta  Incognita,"     Since  this  I'eputed   voyage  entered  largely 


24  PACIFIC    COAST. 

into  the  discussion  and  settlement  of  "  The  Oregon  question,"  the  main  j)ortiou  of  Mr. 
Lock's  document  is  given,  without  attempting  to  jireserve  the  Old  English  orthography. 
It  says : 

When  I  was  in  Venice,  in  April,  1536,  haply  arrived  there  an  old  man,  about  sixty  j'ears  of 
age,  called,  commonly,  Juan  de  Fuca,  but  named  properly  Apostolas  Valerianus,  of  nation  a  Greek, 
born  in  Cei^halonia,  of  profession  a  mariner,  and  an  ancient  pilot  of  ships.  This  man,  being  come 
lately  out  of  Spain,  arrived  first  at  Leghorn,  and  went  thence  to  Florence,  where  he  found  one 
•John  Douglas,  an  Englishman,  a  famous  mariner,  ready  coming  for  Venice,  to  be  pilot  of  a  Venetian 
ship  for  England,  in  whose  company  they  came  both  together  to  Venice.  And  John  Douglas  being- 
acquainted  with  me  before,  he  gave  me  knowledge  of  this  Greek  pilot,  and  brought  him  to  my 
speech  ;  and,  in  long  talks  and  conference  between  us,  in  presence  of  John  Douglas,  this  Greek 
pilot  declared,  in  the  Italian  and  Spanish  languages,  this  much  in  effect  as  followeth  : 

First,  he  said  he  had  been  in  the  West  Indies  of  Spain  forty  years,  and  had  sailed  to  and  from 
many  places  thereof,  in  the  service  of  the  Spaniards. 

Also,  he  said  that  he  was  in  the  Sj^anish  ship  which,  in  returning  from  the  Islands  Philiji- 
pines,  towards  Nova  Spania,  was  robbed  and  taken  at  the  Cape  California  by  Captain  Caudish, 
Englishman,  whereby  he  lost  sixty  thousand  ducats  of  his  goods. 

Also,  he  said  that  he  was  pilot  of  three  small  ships  which  the  Viceroy  of  Mexico  sent  from 
Mexico,  armed  with  one  hundred  men,  under  a  captain,  Spaniards,  to  discover  the  Straits  of  Anian, 
along  the  coast  of  the  South  Sea,  and  to  fortify  in  that  strait,  to  resist  the  passage  and  proceedings 
of  the  English  nation,  which  were  forced  to  pass  through  those  straits  into  the  South  Sea  ;  and 
that,  by  reason  of  a  mutiny  which  hapjiened  among  the  soldiers  for  the  misconduct  of  their  cap- 
tain, that  voyage  was  overthrown,  and  the  ship  returned  from  California  to  Nova  Spania,  without 
anything  done  in  that  voyage  ;  and  that,  after  their  return,  the  caiDtain  was  at  Mexico  punished  by 
justice. 

Also,  he  said  that,  shortly  after  the  said  voyage  was  so  ill  ended,  the  said  Viceroy  of  Mexico 
.sent  him  out  again,  in  1592,  with  a  small  caravel  and  a  iJinnaee,  armed  with  mariners  only,  to  fol- 
low the  said  voyage  for  the  discovery  of  the  Straits  of  Anian,  and  the  passage  thereof  into  the  sea, 
which  they  call  the  North  Sea,  which  is  our  northwest  sea  ;  and  that  he  followed  his  course,  in  that 
voyage,  west  and  northwest  in  the  South  Sea,  all  along  the  coast  of  Nova  Spania,  and  California, 
and  the  Indies,  now  called  North  America,  (all  which  voyage  he  signified  to  me  in  a  great  maj^,  and 
a  sea-card  of  my  own,  which  I  laid  before  him),  until  he  came  to  the  latitude  of  47  degrees  ,  and 
that,  there  finding  that  the  land  trended  north  and  northwest,  with  a  broad  inlet  of  sea,  between 
47  and  48  degrees  of  latitude,  he  entered  thereinto,  sailing  therein  more  than  twenty  days,  and 
found  that  land  trending  still  sometime  northwest,  and  northeast,  and  north,  and  also  east  and 
southeastward,  and  very  much  broader  sea  than  was  at  the  said  entrance,  and  that  he  passed  by 
divers  islands  in  that  sailing  ;  and  that,  at  the  entrance  of  this  said  strait,  there  is,  on  the  northwest 
coast  thereof,  a  great  headland  or  island,  v/ith  an  exceeding  high  pinnacle,  or  spired  rock,  like  a 
pillar,  thereupon. 

Also,  he  said  that  he  went  on  land  in  divers  places,  and  that  he  saw  some  people  on  land  clad 
in  beasts' skins  ;  and  that  the  land  is  very  fruitful,  and  rich  of  gold,  silver,  pearls,  and  other 
things,  like  Nova  Spania. 

Also,  he  said  that  he  being  entered  thus  far  into  the  said  strait,  and  being  come  into  the 
North  Sea  already,  and  finding  the  sea  wide  enough  everywhere,  and  to  be  about  thirty  or  forty 
leagues  wide  in  the  mouth  of  the  straits  where  he  entered,  he  thought  he  had  now  well  discharged 
his  office  ;  and  that,  not  being  armed  to  resist  the  force  of  the  savage  people  that  might  happen,  he 
therefore  set  sail,  and  returned  homewards  again  towards  Nova  Spania,  where  he  arrived  at  Aca- 
pulco,  Anno  1592,  hoiking  to  be  rewarded  by  the  Viceroy  for  this  service  done  in  the  said  voyage. 

*  *  *  [Here  follows  an  account  of  his  vain  endeavors  for  three  years  to  secure  a 
proper  recognition  of  his  services  by  the  Viceroy  or  the  Spanish  monarch,  and  his  resolution  to 
return  to  his  native  land  to  die  among  his  countrymen.]         *         *         * 

Also,  he  said  he  thought  the  cause  of  his  ill-reward  had  of  the  Spaniards,  to  be  for  that  they 
did  understand  very  well  that  the  English  nation  had  now  given  over  all  their  voyages  for  discovery 


ill  ^^  ^  ^■' 


PACIFIC    COAST.  25 

of  the  northwest  passage  ;  wherefore  they  need  not  fear  them  anj-  more  to  come  that  way  into  the 
South  Sea,  and  therefore  they  needed  not  his  service  therein  any  more. 

Also,  he  said  that,  understanding  the  noble  mind  of  the  Queen  of  England,  and  of  her  wars 
against  the  Spaniards,  and  hoising  that  her  majesty  would  do  him  justice  for  his  goods  lost  by  Cap- 
tain Candish,  he  would  be  content  to  go  into  England,  and  serve  her  majesty  in  that  voyage  for 
the  discovery  perfectly  of  the  northwest  passage  into  the  South  Sea,  if  she  would  furnish  him  with 
only  one  ship  of  forty  tons'  burden,  and  a  pinnace,  and  that  he  would  i^erform  it  in  thirty  days' 
time,  from  one  end  to  the  other  of  the  strait,  and  he  willed  me  so  to  write  to  England. 

And,  from  conference  had  twice  with  the  said  Greek  jjilot,  I  did  write  thereof,  accordingly, 
to  England,  unto  the  right  honorable  the  old  Lord  Treasurer  Cecil,  and  to  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  and 
to  Master  Richard  Hakluyt,  that  famous  cosmographer,  certifying  them  hereof.  And  I  prayed 
them  to  disburse  one  hundred  pounds,  to  bring  the  said  Greek  pilot  into  England,  with  myself, 
for  that  my  own  purse  would  not  stretch  so  wide  at  that  time.  And  I  had  answer  that  this  action 
was  well  liked  and  greatly  desired  in  England  ;  but  the  money  was  not  ready,  and  therefore  this 
action  died  at  that  time,  though  the  said  Greek  pilot,  perchance,  liveth  still  in  his  own  country,  in 
Cejjhalonia,  towards  which  place  he  went  within  a  fortnight  after  this  conference  had  at  Venice. 

The  remainder  of  the  long  document  gives  the  details  of  correspondence  held  by 
Lock  with  Juan  de  Fuca  during  the  next  few  years,  showing  that  up  to  1598  the  jiilot 
was  still  willing  to  go  with  him  to  England,  but  that  in  1602,  when  Lock  had  finally 
finished  his  business  in  Venice  and  prepared  to  return  to  England,  a  letter  to  the 
Greek  failed  to  elicit  a  response,  and  the  writer  heard  a  little  later  that  the  old  navigator 
was  dead. 

Much  controversy  has  been  and  is  still  being  carried  on  among  historians  as  to 
whether  such  a  person  as  Juan  de  Fuca  ever  lived,  or  such  a  voyage  as  Lock  described 
was  ever  made.  Mexican  and  Spanish  records  of  the  period  have  been  carefully 
searched  by  those  eager  to  prove  the  truth  of  this  narrative,  without  revealing  any 
confirmatory  evidence  whatever.  The  negative  the  records,  of  course,  could  not  estab- 
lish. The  voyage  must  stand  or  fall  by  the  manner  in  which  the  narrator's  geograph- 
ical descriptions  bear  the  light  of  modern  investigation.  One  thing  is  clearly  notice- 
able ;  its  geographical  descriptions  of  regions  claimed  to  have  been  visited  are  far  more 
accurate  than  those  of  any  navigator  of  the  preceding  or  subsequent  century  in  any 
quarter  of  the  globe ;  and  the  narrative  is  entirely  free  from  those  extravagant  asser- 
tions in  regard  to  the  wonderful  wealth  of  the  people  or  magnificence  of  their  cities, 
contained  in  the  accounts  of  voyages  whose  authenticity  can  not  be  questioned,  which 
assertions  were  always  found  to  have  been  grossly  exaggerated  and  often  wholly  the 
creatures  of  imagination.  Prima  facie,  then,  it  is  more  authentic  than  accounts  of 
nearly  contemporaneous  voyages  of  which  undisputable  records  exist.  Now  to 
examine  its  statements  by  the  clear  light  of  facts.  Juan  de  Fuca  locates  his  passage 
between  47°  and  48°  of  latitude,  while  the  fact  is  that  between  the  48tli  and  49th, 
just  such  a  passage  as  he  describes  exists.  This  is  the  entrance  to  Puget  sound  and 
is  still  known  as  the  Straits  of  Fuca.  His  account  of  the  passage,  its  leading  off  in 
all  directions  and  its  many  islands,  is  substantially  correct,  and  his  error  in  locating 
the  entrance  a  few  miles  to  the  south  is  a  far  less  grievous  one  than  those  made  in 
every  account  handed  down  to  us  of  those  times.  The  advanced  age,  length  of  time 
elapsed  and  annoyances  of  his  long  efforts  to  secui-e  his  just  reward,  could  easily  account 
for  so  slight  an  error  when  detailing  the  circumstances  from  memory  alone  ;  and  it  must 
be  remembered  that  the  account  was  written  by  Lock,  a  second  party,  and  is  liable  to 


26  PACIFIC   COAST. 

slight  errors  in  statement,  though  probably  none  very  material,  as  Lock  was  an  intel- 
ligent and  respectable  merchant  and  appears  to  have  been  an  extremely  careful  and 
methodical  man.  Fuca  was  in  the  passage  twenty  days,  though  he  does  not  state  that 
he  sailed  straight  along  through  it  all  this  time,  but  must  of  necessity  have  spent 
fully  half  his  time  in  circumnavigating  islands  and  running  into  bays  while  endeavor- 
ing to  follow  the  main  channel.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  saying  nothing  about  the 
number  of  miles  traveled,  he  came  out  again  into  the  open  sea,  su2:)230sing  himself  to 
ha-ve  passed  through  into  another  ocean.  Here  arises  the  difficulty  most  historians 
have  in  reconciling  the  narrative  with  the  facts ;  and  the  difficulty  exists,  not  in 
the  narrative  itself,  but  in  the  fact  that  these  historians  have  not  sufficiently  acquainted 
themselves  with  the  geographical  theories  which  obtained  at  the  time  of  Fuca's 
voyage.  They  seem  to  think  that  he  must  necessarily  have  supposed  that  he  had 
gone  clear  through  the  continent  into  the  Atlantic,  an  utter  impossibility.  Such  was 
most  certainly  not  the  case.  The  Straits  of  Anian  were  at  that  time  believed  to  be  a 
passage  running  north  and  south,  separating  the  continents  of  Asia  iJnd  America, 
and  extending  from  the  South  sea  to  the  North  sea.  Across  this  North  sea  it  was 
many  hundred  leagues  around  the  north  end  of  America  before  reaching  the  Atlantic. 
In  sailing  in  a  generally  northward  direction,  therefore,  between  Vancouver  island 
and  the  main  land  of  British  Columbia  and  finally  entering  again  into  the  Pacific 
ocean,  it  was  most  natural  for  him  to  suppose  that  he  had  passed  from  the  South  sea 
through  the  Straits  of  Anian  into  the  North  sea.  He  did  not  claim  to  have  sailed 
eastward,  as  so  many  historians  seem  to  assume,  for  had  the  passage  led  so  far  in  that 
direction  he  would  have  doubted  its  identity  with  the  Straits  of  Anian  ;  nor  did  he 
claim  to  have  entered  the  Atlantic,  but  simj^ly  the  North  sea.  It  seems  then  that  the 
only  evidence  against  its  authenticity  is  the  negative  one  of  there  being  no  record  of 
such  a  voyage  in  Spanish  archives  ;  and  this  is  at  least  partially  explained  by  the  state- 
ment that  neither  the  viceroy  nor  the  king  would  recognize  the  services  of  the 
navigator.  For  this  reason,  they  may  have  permitted  no  record  of  the  voyage  to  be 
made.  If  Juan  de  Fuca  made  the  voyage  as  narrated,  then  Spain's  claim  to  the  coun- 
try for  some  distance  above  Puget  sound,  so  far  as  the  right  of  discovery  is  concerned, 
was  a  good  one,  and  the  title  conveyed  from  her  through  France  to  the  United  States 
good  to  an  equal  degree.  Another  argument  against  it  is  the  fact  that  even  at  the 
time  Fuca  was  pouring  his  tale  into  the  willing  ear  of  the  English  merchant,  another 
Spanish  expedition  was  engaged  in  looking  for  this  passage,  and  in  the  letter  ordering 
the  exploration  the  reasons  for  doing  so  are  set  forth  at  length,  though  no  allusion  is 
made  to  the  Greek,  who,  according  to  Lock's  narrative  must  have  been  importuning 
the  king  for  his  reward  at  the  very  time  the  letter  was  written.  It  may  be  argued, 
however,  that  Fuca's  statements  to  the  king  may  have  been  what  induced  him  to  order 
this  expedition,  instead  of  the  causes  set  forth  in  the  royal  mandate. 

In  1708  there  was  j^rinted  in  a  London  magazine  entitled  Monthly  Miscellany,  or 
Memoirs  of  the  Curious,  a  most  absurd  and  self-contradictory  account  of  a  voyage  said 
to  have  been  made  in  1640  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic  through  a  great  chain  of 
lakes.  Though  it  was  probably  invented  by  James  Petiver,  an  eminent  naturalist  and 
contributor  to  the  magazine,  yet  it  created  a  great  sensation  in  England,  France  and 
Holland,  and  was  received  with  considerable  faith  for  more  than  half  a  centurv. 


PACIFIC    COAST.  27 

The  narrator  states  that  Admiral  Pedro  Bartholoine  de  Fonte,  sailed  from  Calhio 
ill  April,  1640,  with  orders  from  the  viceroy  of  Peru  to  exjjlore  the  Pacific  for  a  north- 
west passage  and  to  intercept  some  Boston  vessels  which  had  been  reported  as  b(jund 
upon  the  same  mission  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  Since  Boston  was  in  1640  but  a  small 
struggling  settlement  and  the  Puritans  were  not  looking  for  any  northwest  passage,  it 
would  seem  as  though  this  statement  alone  was  enough  to  have  condemned  the  entire 
narrative  ;  but  as  it  was  not  published  for  sixty-eight  years  after  that  date  probably 
neither  the  writer  nor  the  people  stopped  to  consider  the  absurdity.  The  story  informs 
us  that  at  Cape  San  Lucas  Fonte  detached  one  of  his  four  vessels  to  explore  the  Gulf 
of  California  and  with  the  others  continued  up  the  coast.  Having  sailed  for  a  long 
time  among  islands  which  he  named  Archipelago  of  St.  Lazarus,  he  finally  reached,  in 
latitude  63  degrees,  the  mouth  of  a  large  stream  christened  by  him  Eio  de  los  Reyes, 
or  River  of  Kings.  He  sent  one  vessel  further  up  the  coast  under  the  command  of 
Bernardo,  and  then  entered  the  river  and  followed  it  northwesterly  until  it  opened  out 
into  an  immense  lake  filled  with  beautiful  islands,  which  he  named  Lake  Belle.  It  was 
surrounded  by  a  fine  country,  and  the  inhabitants  were  very  hospitable  in  their  treat- 
ment of  the  strangers.  Leaving  his  vessels  at  their  large  town,  called  Conasset,  on  the 
south  shore  of  the  lake,  Fonte  and  some  of  his  jsarty  continued  their  journey  down  a 
large  stream  called  Parmentier,  though  whether  in  boats  or  on  foot  along  the  bank  the 
narrative  is  silent,  until  they  entered  another  lake  further  east.  This  he  named  in  his 
own  honor,  and  then  j^roceeded  through  a  passage,  called  Strait  of  Ronquillo  in  honor 
of  one  of  his  captains,  into  the  Atlantic  ocean,  having  thus  passed  entirely  through  the 
American  continent  by  water.  It  then  goes  on  to  state  that  he  encountered  a  Boston 
ship  commanded  by  Nicholas  Shapley,  with  whom,  also,  was  the  owner,  Seymour  Gib- 
bons, "  a  fine  gentleman,  and  major  general  of  the  largest  colony  in  New  England, 
called  JMaltechusetts."  After  exchanging  courtesies  with  these  strangers,  whom  he 
decided  to  treat  simply  as  traders  and  not  as  hostile  explorers  for  the  northwest  passage, 
he  returned  by  the  water  route  to  Lake  La  Belle  and  thence  in  his  vessels  to  the  Pacific, 
where  he  was  again  joined  by  Bernardo.  The  journey  claimed  to  have  been  made  in 
the  meantime  by  this  lieutenant  is  equally  wonderful.  Having  coasted  as  far  as  the 
61st  degree  of  latitude  Bernardo  discovered  a  great  river,  up  which  he  ascended  till  he, 
also,  emerged  into  a  large  lake.  He  named  these  Rio  de  Haro  and  Lake  Yelasco. 
From  the  lake  he  went  in  canoes  to  the  79th  parallel,  but  as  the  land  was  seen  "still 
trending  north,  and  the  ice  rested  on  the  land,"  he  concluded  to  return.  He  was  satis- 
fied "  that  there  was  no  communication  out  of  the  Atlantic  sea  by  Davis's  strait ;  for  the 
natives  had  conducted  one  of  his  seamen  to  the  head  of  Davis's  strait,  which  terminated 
in  a  fresh  lake,  of  about  thirty  miles  in  circumference,  in  the  80th  degree  of  north  lat- 
itude ;  and  there  were  prodigious  mountains  north  of  it."  Satisfied  from  the  report  of 
Bernardo  and  his  own  observations  that  the  Straits  of  Anian  did  not  exist,  Fonte  re- 
turned with  his  fleet  to  Peru. 

This  story,  so  absurd  in  the  light  of  motlern  research,  ami  which  was  not  juiblished 
till  long  after  the  exjjlorers,  if,  indeed,  there  were  any,  had  become  imperishable  dust, 
was  received  with  great  credence ;  though  it  was  in  every  particular  contradictory  to 
those  of  Maldonado  and  Juan  de  Fuca.  For  fifty  years  it  was  copied  into  all  works 
upon  North  America  and  many  maps  of  the  continent  had  indicated  upon  them  a  juis- 


28  PACIFIC  COAST. 

sage  such  as  Fonte's  was  supposed  to  have  beeu ;  and  during  the  eighteenth  century  all 
explorers  of  the  northwest  coast  searched  for  the  Rio  de  los  Reyes,  while  inland  expedi- 
tions from  the  Atlantic  coast  kept  the  fact  that  such  a  river  existed  constantly  befoi-e 
them. 

These  various  narratives,  so  entirely  uureeoncilable  with  each  other,  all  had  their 
firm  supporters,  and  efforts  have  been  made  by  historians  at  different  times  to  prove  each 
one  of  them  to  be  an  ajjproximately  correct  account  of  a  veritable  voyage,  but  without 
success.  The  only  one  that  can  exist  for  a  moment  in  the  light  of  the  geographical 
knowledge  of  to-day  is  that  of  the  Greek  pilot,  Juan  de  Fuca,  and  to  prove  that, except 
by  inference  and  comparison,  is  impossible.  They  all  served  their  purpose,  however,  to 
stimulate  the  spirit  of  exploration,  which  has  resulted  in  the  spread  of  knowledge  an<l 
the  advancement  of  civilization. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


VOYAGES  IX  THE  PACIFIC    AND    ATLANTIC. 

Voyages  of  Viscaino— His  Vain  Efforts  to  have  San  Dieg;o  and  Monterey  Occupied— The  Lethargy  of  Spain- 
Explorations  of  Henry  Hudson  and  William  Baffin—  Dutch  Navigators  find  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  to  be  Con- 
nected by  an  Open  Sea  and  name  Cape  Horn— Freebooters  Swarm  into  the  Pacific  by  the  New  Route— Feeble 
Efforts  of  Spain  to  Protect  her  Commerce— Attempt  to  Colonize  Lov/er  California— Organization  of  the  Hud 
son's  Bay  Company. 

If  Juan  de  Fuca's' statement  was  true,  then  the  Spanish  monarch  was  simjily 
feigning  indifference  about  finding  and  taking  possession  of  the  northwest  passage  ; 
for  in  1595,  while  the  old  pilot  was  in  Spain, Philiji  II.  ordered  a  survey  of  the  Pacific 
coast.     Of  this  move  Torquemada  says  : 

His  majesty  knew  that  the  viceroys  of  Mexico  had  endeavored  to  discover  a  northern  pas- 
sage ;  aud  he  had  found,  among  his  father's  papers,  a  declaration  of  certain  strangers,  to  the  effect 
that  they  had  been  driven,  by  violent  winds,  from  the  codfish  coast  on  the  Atlantic,  to  the  South 
Sea,  through  the  Strait  of  Anian,  which  is  beyond  Cape  Mendocino,  and  had,  on  their  way,  seen  a 
rich  and  populous  city,  well  fortified,  and  inhabited  by  a  numerous  and  civilized  nation,  who  had 
treated  them  well  ;  as  also  many  other  things  worthy  to  be  seen  and  known.  His  majesty  had  also 
been  informed  that  ships,  sailing  from  China  to  Mexico,  ran  great  risks,  particularly  near  Cape 
Mendocino,  where  the  storms  are  most  violent,  and  that  it  would  be  advantageous  to  have  that  coast 
surveyed  thence  to  Acapulco,  so  that  the  ships,  mostly  belonging  to  his  majesty,  should  find  places 
for  relief  and  refreshment  when  needed.  Whereupon  his  majesty  ordered  the  Count  de  Monterey, 
Viceroy  of  Mesico,  to  have  those  coasts  surveyed,  at  his  own  e.rpensi',  with  all  care  and  diligence. 

The  phrase  in  italics  in  the  above  extract  accounts  for  much  of  the  delay  in  fully 
exploring  the  northern  Pacific  coast  of  America,  for  the  viceroys  of  Mexico  wei'e  strik- 
ingly similar  to  the  office-holders  of  to-day  in  their  manner  of  carrying  out  enterprises 
that  were  to  be  executed  at  their  own  expense.  Writing  half  a  century  later  Venegas 
gives  the  following  for  the  anxiety  of  Spain  to  learn  more  of  the  coast.     It  was  the  fear 


sssa 

m]    iB^    [inii 
IBl    l^gjl    Ipgi 


1    ISI 


H    1^   l^f 


|B|    l^g    SIj 


1 

[^    ^    ^'^ 

1^   mi  i^f 


PACIFIC    COAST.  2J 

That  in  the  meantime  the  English  shouki  fiml  out  the  so-much-desired  passage  to  the  South 
Sea,  by  the  north  of  America  and  above  California,  which  passage  is  not  universally  denied,  and 
one  day  may  be  found  ;  that  they  may  fortify  themselves  on  both  sides  of  this  passage,  and  thus 
extend  the  English  dominion  from  the  nortb  to  the  south  of  America,  so  as  to  border  on  our  pos- 
sessions. Should  English  colonies  and  garrisons  be  established  along  the  coast  of  America  on  the 
South  Sea  beyond  Cape  Mendocino,  or  lower  down  on  California  itself,  England  would  then,  with- 
out control,  reign  mistress  of  the  sea  and  its  commerce,  and  be  able  to  threaten  by  land  and  sea 
the  territories  of  Spain  ;  invade  them  on  occasion  from  the  E.,  W.,  N.  and  S.,  hem  them  in  and 
press  them  on  all  sides. 

In  compliance  with  his  sovereign's  mandate,  the  viceroy  dispatched  three  vessels 
from  Acapnlco  in  the  spring  of  lo9G,  nnder  the  command  of  Bebastian  Viseaino. 
Beyond  an  attempt  to  plant  two  colonies,  both  of  which  were  unsuccessful  because  of 
the  sterility  of  the  country  and  the  savage  hostility  of  the  natives,  nothing  wAs  accom- 
plished by  this  feeble  pretense  of  obeying  instructions.  The  viceroy  was  not  permitted 
to  thus  shirk  the  exjjense  of  making  a  proper  survey  of  the  coast ;  for  though  he  was 
respited  for  a  time  by  the  death  of  the  king  in  1598,  one  of  the  first  acts  of  Philip  III. 
after  being  securely  seated  upon  the  throne,  was  to  command  the  viceroy  to  attend  to 
this  matter  without  further  delay.  Viseaino  was,  in  consequence,  again  sent  out,  this 
time  upon  a  genuine  voyage  of  exploration.  His  two  vessels  and  small  fragata 
were  furnished  with  all  the  necessaries  of  an  extended  cruise,  and  he  was  accompanied 
by  pilots,  draftsmen  and  j^riests,  so  that  advantage  could  be  taken  of  all  discoveries  and 
proper  records  and  charts  made  of  them. 

The  fleet  sailed  from  Acapulco  May  5,  1002,  and  began  exploring  the  coast  at  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula  of  California.  They  were  much  baffled  by  a  wind 
blowing  almost  constantly  from  the  northwest,  which  Torquemada  says  was  produced 
"  by  the  foe  of  the  human  race,  in  order  to  prevent  the  advance  of  the  ships,  and  to 
delay  the  discovery  of  those  countries,  and  the  conversion  of  their  inhabitants  to  the 
Catholic  faith."  Added  to  this  difficulty  was  the  terrible  malady,  the  scurvy,  which 
made  sad  inroads  upon  the  healtli  of  the  crews.  They  continued  up  the  coast  in  spite 
of  these  discouraging  circumstances,  entering  the  ports  of  San  Quentin,  San  Diego  and 
JMonterey.  Here  it  was  found  that  sixteen  of  the  seamen  had  died  and  that  many  others 
were  incapacitated  by  disease  from  performing  duty ;  and  it  Avas  decided  to  send  back 
the  ship  commanded  by  Toribio  Gomez  de  Corvan  with  the  invalids.  Corvan  reached 
Acapulco  after  a  long  and  terrible  journey  with  but  few  of  the  crew  of  his  vessel  alive. 

A  few  days  later,  on  the  third  of  January,  1608,  the  two  remaining  vessels 
renewed  the  voyage,  and  were  s()(jn  sejjarated  in  a  gale,  from  the  t'luy  of  which  the 
larger  (nic  took  refuge  in  a  bay  spoken  of  in  the  record  of  the  voyage  as  San  Francisco, 
where  scart-li  was  made  for  a  Sj^anish  galleon  w'hich  had  been  wrecked  there  in  1595. 
Tonjuciiiada  says:  "He  anchored  behind  a  point  of  rocks  called  La  Punta  de  los 
Raves,  ill  tlie  port  of  San  Francisco."  It  seems  impossible  that  this  could  have  lieen 
Sail  Francisco  liay ;  for  one  of  the  chief  objects  of  the  voyage  was  to  find  a  harl)or  of 
refuge  and  sujiply  for  vessels  in  the  Manila  trade,  and  yet  upon  his  return  Viseaino 
recoiiiiiieiided  San  Diego  and  Monterey  as  being  the  only  (mes  at  all  suital)le  for  that 
purpose;  yet  it  will  be  remembered  that  in  later  years,  before  any  aiisoliite  record  of 
the  discovery  of  this  liay  was  made,  a  chart  ii])oii  which  such  a  liay  was  indicated  was 
tliund  l>y  an  Fnglishinaii  on  a  captured  ]\faiiila  galh'dii.      The  pr(i1)nliilities  are,  however, 


30  PACIFIC   COAST. 

that  the  bay  Viscaino  entered  was  Drake's  bay,  just  uoi'th  of  the  Golden  Gate,  the 
place  where  Sir  Francis  Drake  a  fe-w  years  before  had  enacted  his  farce  of  taking  pos- 
sesion of  the  country  in  the  name  of  the  queen  of  England.  A^iscaino  resumed  his 
journey  and  on  the  twentieth  of  January  reached  a  point  on  the  coast  opjjosite  a  large 
white  bluff,  in  latitude  42°,  which  he  named  Cape  San  Sebastian.  The  weather  being 
cold  and  stormy,  his  crew  being  nearly  all  disabled  by  the  scurvy,  and  being  unable  to 
discover  any  sign  of  the  other  vessel,  Viscaino  turned  back  at  this  point,  and  reached 
Mexico  in  March.  The  fragata  proceeded  north  when  se^^arated  from  the  ship  off  San 
Francisco  bay,  and  encountering  another  severe  storm  took  refuge  near  Cape  Mendocino. 
Of  the  remainder  of  its  explorations  Torquemada  says  :  "  When  the  wind  had  became 
less  violfent  they  continued  their  journey  close  along  the  shore ;  and,  on  the  nineteenth 
of  January,  the  pilot,  Antonio  Flores,  found  that  they  were  in  the  latitude  of  43 
degrees,  where  the  land  formed  a  cape  or  jDoint,  which  was  named  Cape  Blanco.  From 
that  point  the  coast  begins  to  turn  to  the  northwest ;  and  near  it  was  discovered  a  rapid 
and  abundant  river,  with  ash  trees,  willows,  brambles,  and  other  trees  of  Castile  on  its 
banks,  which  they  endeavored  to  enter,  but  could  not  from  the  force  of  the  current. 
Ensign  Martin  de  Aguilar,  the  commander,  and  Antonio  Flores,  the  pilot,  seeing  that 
they  had  already  reached  a  higher  latitude  than  was  ordered  by  the  viceroy  in  his 
instructions,  that  the  Captaina  [Viscaino's  vessel]  did  not  appear,  and  that  the  number 
of  sick  was  great,  agreed  to  return  to  Acapulco." 

The  fragata  reached  Acapulco  soon  after  the  larger  vessel,  the  ravages  of  the 
scurvy  having  dejirived  it  of  its  commander,  pilot  and  the  greater  portion  of  the  crew 
on  the  return  voyage.  This  disease  and  its  cause  do  not  appear  to  have  been  well 
understood  at  that  time.  The  sufieriug  it  caused  was  most  terrible,  and  it  is  remarkable 
what  fortitude  the  Spaniards  displayed  in  continuing  their  voyages  during  the  preva- 
lence of  such  a  horrible  malady.  In  describing  their  sufferings,  Torquemada  says : 
''  Nor  is  the  least  ease  to  be  expected  from  change  of  place,  as  the  slightest  motion  is 
attended  with  such  severe  pains  that  they  must  be  very  fond  of  life  who  would  not 
willingly  lay  it  down  on  the  first  appearance  of  so  terrible  a  distemper.  This  virulent 
humour  makes  such  ravages  in  the  body  that  it  is  entirely  covered  with  ulcers,  and  the 
poor  patients  are  unable  to  bear  the  least  pressure ;  even  the  very  clothes  laid  on  them 
deprive  them  of  life.  Thus  they  lie  groaning  and  incapable  of  any  relief  For  the 
greatest  assistance  possible  to  be  given  them,  if  I  may  be  allowed  the  expression,  is  not 
to  touch  them,  nor  even  the  bed  clothes.  These  effects,  however  melancholy,  are  not 
the  only  ones  produced  by  this  pestilential  humour.  In  many,  the  gums,  both  of  the 
upper  and  lower  jaws,  are  jwessed  both  within  and  without  to  such  a  degree,  that 
the  teeth  cannot  touch  one  another,  and  withal  so  loose  and  bare  that  they  shake 
with  the  least  motion  of  the  head,  and  some  of  the  patients  spit  their  teeth 
out  with  their  saliva.  Thus  they  were  unable  to  receive  any  food  but  liquid,  as  gruel, 
broth,  milk  of  almonds  and  the  like.  This  gradually  brought  on  so  great  a  weakness 
that  they  died  while  talking  to  their  friends.  =^'  *  =•'  Some,  by  way  of  ease,  made 
loud  complaints,  others  lamented  their  sins  with  the  deepest  contrition,  some  died  talking, 
some  sleeping,  some  eating,  some  whilst  sitting  up  in  their  beds." 

The  great  river  said  to  have  been  discovered  by  this  expedition  attracted  much 
attention  at  the  time.     The  historian  quoted  above  said  of  it :     "  It  is  supposed  that 


PACIFIC    COAST.  31 

tliis  river  is  the  one  leading  to  a  great  city,  which  was  discovered  by  the  Dutch  when 
they  were  driven  thither  by  storms,  and. that  it  is  the  Strait  of  Anian,  through  which 
tlie  ship  passed  in  sailing  from  the  North  sea  to  the  South  sea  ;  and  that  the  city  called 
(^uivira  is  in  those  parts ;  and  that  this  is  the  region  referred  to  in  the  account  which 
his  majesty  read,  and  which  induced  him  to  order  this  expedition."  No  great  river 
exists  in  latitude  43  degrees ;  but  it  is  well  known  that  the  navigators  of  that  period 
were  seldom  accurate  in  their  observations,  often  varying  as  much  as  half  a  degree,  and 
it  is  quite  possible  the  stream  referred  to  may  have  been  the  Umpqua.  A  few  years 
later  it  was  sujiposed  that  this  stream  was  one  end  of  a  passage  extending  from  the 
(rulf  of  California  to  Cape  Blanco,  making  of  California  a  huge  island,  and  this  idea 
was  supported  by  the  knowledge  of  the  Colorado  river,  which  had  been  explored  many 
miles  to  the  northward.  Venegas,  writing  in  the  seventeenth  century,  speaks  of  Califor- 
nia as  an  island,  and  it  was  so  designated  on  all  maps  until  the  end  of  the  century. 
After  this  was  discovered  to  be  a  mistake,  the  river  was  laid  down  on  some  maps 
as  a  large  stream  flowing  from  the  interior  of  the  continent — such  a  stream  as  the  Col- 
um1)ia —  (»r  as  the  western  end  of  a  passage  leading  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific. 
W'ry  little  was  known  of  the  width  of  the  continent;  and  geographers  sujiposed  it  was 
but  a  short  distance  between  the  South  sea  and  North  sea.  They  had  no  idea  that  a 
passage  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans  would  have  been  4,000  miles  in  length. 
Upon  his  return  to  Mexico  Viscaino  strongly  urged  the  viceroy  to  establish  supp  ly 
stations  at  San  Diego  and  Monterey  and  to  thus  take  possession  of  a  country  which  he 
was  satisfied,  from  what  he  learned  by  careful  inquiry  among  the  natives  he  encountered 
along  the  coast,  was  extremely  fertile  and  rich  in  the  precious  metals;  but  the  viceroy 
had  too  nuich  consideration  for  his  personal  interests,  since  the  expense  of  such  an  under- 
taking would  have  fallen  solely  upon  himself,  and  neglected  to  utilize  the  informa  tion 
thus  obtained.  Viscaino,  disgusted  with  the  viceroy's  inactivity,  departed  for  Spain  to 
present  his  views  at  court;  and  after  long  delay  and  persistent  imj^ortuning  secured  a 
royal  mandate  to  the  viceroy,  commanding  him  to  establish  a  supply  station  for  the 
India  trade  at  JNIonterey.  This  order  was  issued  in  1606,  and  with  it  Viscaino  hastened 
to  Mexico;  but  before  the  final  preparations  were  completed  he  was  taken  sick  and  died,^ 
and  the  colonizing  enterprise  was  abandoned.  With  no  enthusiastic  explorer  to  arouse 
him  to  action  and  with  no  hostile  fleets  in  the  Pacific  to  annoy  him,  the  Spanish  man- 
nrch  apparently  thought  no  more  of  the  Pacific  coast  or  the  northwest  passage,  and  a 
few  years  later  there  was  enough  to  occupy  his  attention  at  home.  He  ordered  no  more 
voyages  of  exploration,  and  the  viceroys  were  careful  to  undertake  none  upon  their  own 
responsibility,  nor  any  other  enterprise  unless  the  immediate  prospective  ])rofits  were 
great.  For  a  hundred  and  >iixty  years  Spain  made  no  ftirther  effort  to  extend  her  ex- 
ploi-ations  of  the  coast,  nor  did  she  even  attempt  the  establishment  of  colonies  at  San 
Diego  or  Monterey,  either  for  the  purpose  of  taking  possession  of  the  country  or  forming 
icfugc  and  supply  stations  for  vessels  returning  from  India.  With  the  exception  of  the 
annual  galleon  which  reached  the  coast  on  its  return  voyage  in  the  latitude  of  Cajw 
Mrndoeind,  no  Spanisli  vessel  visited  dui'  shares  for  a  century  and  a  half  Xot  even 
the  mythical  sti'aits,  the  fabulous  city  of  (^)uiviia,  the  untold  riches  and  many  wonderful 
objects  supposed  to  exist  in  this  vast  unknown  territory,  were  potent  to  nrouse  Spain 
from  her  lethainv.      She  made  a   few  leeble   elforts  to   i)roteet    her   i-onunei'i'e  at    times 


32  PACIFIC   COAST. 

during  this  period  when  attacked  l)y  roving  privateers,  but  her  attempts  at  colonization 
in  Lower  California,  which  will  be  spoken  of  later  on,  met  with  little  success.  There 
seemed  to  be  no  new  Cortes,  Pizarro,  De  Leon,  Balboa  or  De  Soto.  The  spirit  of  adven- 
ture was  dead.  Spain  had  passed  her  zenith  and  was  rapidly  on  the  decline.  Wars 
with  the  Netherlands,  France  and  Portugal  were  most  disastrous.  Power,  wealth  and 
territory  rapidly  decreased,  and  in  a  century  she  declined  from  the  foremost  position  in 
the  world  to  that  of  a  second  rate  power,  and  has  never  been  able  to  regain  her  lost 
ground.  With  such  disasters  crowding  upon  her  in  the  Old  World,  her  apathy  in  the 
New  was  but  a  natural  result. 

Though  Spain  had  ceased  her  voyages  of  exploration,  such  was  not  the  case  with 
her  i^owerful  European  neighbors,  who  were  indefotigable  in  their  efforts  to  explore  and 
colonize  the  Atlantic  coast  of  America.  The  English,  French  and  Dutch  planted  col- 
onies on  the  coast,  while  their  hardy  navigators  unremittingly  explored  its  bays,  rivers, 
straits  and  sounds.  Uppermost  in  the  minds  of  all  was  the  northwest  passage.  The 
stories  of  its  discovery  which  have  already  been  related,  and  many  others  unworthy  of 
repetition,  kept  the  Straits  of  Anian  constantly  in  the  public  mind.  In  1608  Henry 
Hudson  passed  into  and  to  a  certain  extent  explored  the  bay  upon  which  lie  bestowed 
his  name ;  yet  he  was  but  following  the  route  pursued  by  Cortereal  more  than  a  century 
before,  whose  theory  that  it  connected  with  the  Indian  ocean  had  given  rise  to  this  uni- 
versal belief  in  the  mythical  straits.  In  1616  William  Baffin  penetrated  into  the  bay 
that  bears  his  name,  lying  between  America  and  Greenland,  and  entered  a  passage  ex- 
tending westward  near  the  74th  parallel,  but  was  unable  to  proceed  because  of  the  vast 
quantities  of  ice.  This  voyage  and  others  made  into  the  extreme  north,  proved  con- 
clusively that  no  open  passage  could  be  possible  in  the  75th  degree  of  latitude,  where 
Maldonado  had  located  his  tortuous  channel  leading  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  North 
sea,  and  geographers  became  convinced  that  if  such  a  passage  and  sea  existed  they  were 
the  straits  and  bay  explored  and  named  by  Hudson.  The  belief  was  natural,  then,  that 
if  found  at  all,  the  Straits  of  Anian  should  be  looked  for  in  some  of  the  many  unexplored 
arms  of  Hudson's  bay.  For  a  time,  however,  after  BaflBn's  voyage,  England  was  so 
engrossed  in  her  own  troubles  that  neither  Koyalists  nor  Commoners  had  time  or  inclina- 
tion to  prosecute  foreign  explorations. 

The  expeditions  of  the  Dutch  were  chiefly  to  the  southward,  and  in  1616  Lemaire 
and  Van  Schouten  made  a  most  important  discovery.  It  was  that  in  passing  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  it  was  unnecessary  to  tempt  the  dangers  of  JNIagellan's  straits,  l)ut 
that  to  the  south  of  these  there  existed  an  open  sea.  Though  the  passage  of  Cape  Horn, 
named  by  them  in  honor  of  the  city  in  Holland  from  which  they  came,  was  still  a  tem- 
jjestuous  one,  it  served  to  remove  the  fear  all  seaman  entertained  of  undertaking  to  cross 
from  one  ocean  to  the  other  through  the  narrow  and  rocky  channel  above  Terra  del 
Fuego.  This  discovery  was  nearly  as  disastrous  to  Spanish  commerce  in  the  Pacific  as 
that  of  the  much  feared  one  from  the  North  sea  could  possibly  have  been;  for  there  now 
existed  no  obstacle  to  prevent  hostile  vessels  from  entering  or  leaving  the  Pacific  at  will, 
since  the  open  sea  was  too  large  to  be  guarded  even  had  Spain  the  necessary  vessels  of 
war  for  such  a  purpose. 

Spain  was  now  involved  in  European  wars,  and  to  the  disasters  that  were  showered 
xipon  her  head  at  home  were  added  others  in  America.     English,  French  and  Dutch 


PACIFIC    COAST.  33 

1  iiiceaneers,  and  especially  the  latter  during  the  war  fur  independence  by  the  Xether- 
Idiuh,  ravaged  the  Spanish  settlements  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Dutch  privateers  fi-e- 
quented  the  Gulf  of  California,  from  which  they  preyed  upon  the  Spani.<h  commerce 
and  enriched  themselves  with  Ciiptured  booty.  By  their  \-ictims  they  were  known  as 
Pichilingues,  because  the  bay  of  Pichilingue,  on  the  western  side  of  the  gulf,  was  made 
their  chief  point  of  rendezvous. 

Spain  made  a  few  feeble  and  spasmodic  effi:)rt.s  to  dislodge  these  piratical  pests  and 
protect  her  plundered  commerce,  by  sending  out  expeditions  against  them  and  bv 
attempting  to  plant  a  colony  on  Lower  California  as  a  base  of  defensive  operations.  In 
1631,  1644,  1664,  1667  and  1668  such  efforts  were  made;  but  they  were  wholly  fnutless, 
and  in  no  instance  were  the  enterprises  conducted  with  the  %-igor  and  courage  displayed 
l>y  the  Spanish  adventurei-s  of  a  century  before.  A  final  effort  wjis  made  in  1683  bv 
Don  Isdro  de  Otondo,  who  headed  an  expedition  of  soldiers,  settlers  and  Jesuit  priests 
whom  he  established  at  various  points,  making  La  Paz  the  headquarters  and  chief 
settlement  and  building  there  a  chapel  for  worship  and  to  aid  in  the  conversion  of  the 
natives.  Father  Kino  was  in  charge  of  the  religious  part  of  the  enterprise,  and  set 
about  learning  the  Indian  language,  and  soon  translated  into  their  tongue  the  creeds  of 
the  Catholic  Church.  The  effort  lasted  about  three  years,  during  which  time  they  were 
visited  with  an  eighteen  mouths'  drought,  and  before  they  had  recovered  from  the  blow, 
received  orders  to  put  to  sea,  and  bring  into  Acapulco  safely  the  Spanish  galleon,  then 
in  danger  of  capture  by  Dutch  privateers  Iving  in  wait  for  her.  This  was  successfully 
accomplished,  the  treasure-ship  was  conveyed  safely  in,  but  the  act  resulted  in  the 
al)andoninent  of  the  colony;  and  a  council  of  chief  authorities  in  Mexico  soon  after 
decided  that  the  reduction  of  California  by  such  means  was  imjiracti cable. 

After  Charles  II.  came  to  the  throne  of  England,  from  which  his  father  had  Ijeeu 
driven  by  the  austere  Cromwell,  attention  was  again  turned  by  that  nation  to  explorations 
for  the  northwest  passage.  The  belief  that  in  Hudson's  bay  would  be  found  the  en- 
trance to  the  mythical  .straits,  led  to  the  organization  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  to 
which  the  king  granted,  in  166U,  the  whole  region  whose  waters  flow  into  that  great 
inland  sea.  The  objects  of  "  The  company  of  adventurers  of  England  trading  into 
Hudson's  Bay,"  as  expressed  in  the  chartei-.  were  those  of  trade  and  the  iliscovery  of  a 
pa.ssage  leading  into  the  Pacific  ocean.  It  was  not  long,  however,  before  the  company 
learned  that  its  franchise  for  trading  jiurposes  was  an  exceedingly  valuable  one,  and  that 
the  discovery  of  a  pa.ssage  through  its  dominions,  which  would  of  necessity  invoke 
competition  from  other  organizations,  was  highly  undesirable.  From  that  time  it  not 
only  made  no  effort  to  discover  the  pa.ssage,  Init  discouraged  all  such  expeilitions,  even 
keeping  as  secret  as  possible  all  geographical  knowledge  act]uiretl  by  its  agents,  which 
policy  obtains  even  to  the  present  day,  and  which  has  kept  as  a  ftir-bearing  wilderness 
the  whole  northern  half  of  the  North  American  continent. 


CHAPTER  V. 

RUSSIA    ENTERS    THE    PACIFIC. 

Russia  a  New  Factor  in  the  Contest  of  Nations  Plans  of  Peter  the  Great- -Behring's  First  Voyage  Proves  that 
Asia  and  America  are  Distinct  Continents— Voyage  of  the  St.  Paul  -Behring  Reaches  the  American  Coast  and 
Expires  on  the  Return  Voyage— Terrible  Suffering  of  the  Crew  -Beginning  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Trade— Result 
of  Russian  Explorations. 

Though  France  confined  her  attention  to  inland  explorations  from  her  Canadian 
colonies,  England  to  fo.^^tering  her  colonies  in  America  and  exploring  the  north  Atlantic 
coast,  and  Holland  to  the  founding  of  New  Amsterdam  and  the  plundering  of  the  Span- 
ish commerce  and  settlements  in  the  south  Pacific  ;  yet  the  North  Pacific  coast  was  not 
wholly  neglected  during  the  first  half  of  the  eighteenth  century.  A  new  and  almost 
unex])0('ted  factdi'  made  itself  felt  in  the  Pacific,  and  this  was  the  powerful  and  autocratic 
monaicli  oi'  itii->ia.  I'ctii'  the  Great  had  redeemed  Kussia  from  a  state  of  almost  utter 
barbarity  ami  set  it  on  the  highway  to  civilization  and  national  power.  In  the  arts  of 
war  and  jDeace  he  had  ])atiently  instructed  his  j)eople,  had  cemented  their  national  union, 
had  awakened  a  national  pride  and  love  of  power  within  their  bosoms,  had  extended  his 
domain  and  increased  tiie  number  of  his  .subjects,  and  had  made  of  a  people  formerly 
scarcely  thought  of  when  the  affairs  of  Europe  were  discus.sed,  one  of  the  most  influ- 
ential nations  of  the  world.  It  was  his  constant  aim  and  the  legacy  he  left  to  his 
successors,  to  extend  the  ^^ower  of  Russia  on  all  sides,  to  build  u])  the  nation  and  make 
it  the  foremost  on  the  globe,  and  the  czars  have  never  relaxed  their  efforts  to  accomiilish 
this  mighty  purpose.  Gradually  the  dominion  of  the  czar  was  pushed  eastward  until 
his  authority  extended  across  the  whole  of  Siberia  to  the  Pacific  at  the  peninsula  of 
Kamtchatka.  The  rich  furs  of  that  region  became  a  source  of  revenue  to  the  govern- 
ment which  Peter  Avas  desirous  of  increasing.  He  wanted  to  extend  his  power  still 
further  east  to  the  American  settlements  of  the  English,  Spanish  and  French,  though 
bow  far  that  was  neither  he  nor  anyone  else  had  the  least  conception.  To  this  de.sire 
is  due  the  discovery  and  exploration  of  the  northern  Pacific  coasts  of  both  Asia  and 
America.  Peter  commanded  vessels  to  be  built  at  Kamtchatka,  and  at  Archangel  on 
the  Wliite  sea,  that  they  might  endeavor,  the  one  in  the  Aictic  and  the  other  in  the 
Pacific,  to  find  the  long-sought  northwest  passage,  or  as  they  viewed  it  a  northaid 
])a.ssage.  It  was  Peter's  idea  that  vessels  could  sail  from  the  Atlantic  through  the 
Arctic  ocean  and  enter  the  Pacific  by  the  way  of  this  passage,  provided  America  did 
not  prove  to  be  simply  an  eastern  extension  of  Asia ;  but  Peter  died  before  his  project 
was  executed,  and  the  scheme  lay  dormant  for  a  few  years. 

In  1728  the  great  Catherine  determined  to  carry  out  her  husband's  i)lans  for 
Pacific  exploration,  and  agreeably  to  his  former  instructions  she  ordered  an  ex])editioii 
to  1)0  prepared  on  the  northeast  coast  of  Kamtchatka,  which  she  placed  under  the  com- 


PACIFIC    COAST.  1X^4  369 


35 


niiiud  of  a  Danisli  navigator  of  skill  and  rourage,  Vitas  Beliring,  who  liad  been  desig- 
nated Ijy  Peter  for  that  position  l)ef()re  his  death.  He  sailed,  on  the  the  fourteenth  of 
July  in  a  small  vessel,  and  followed  along  the  coast  of  Asia  east  and  north  until  in 
latitude  67°  18'  he  found  it  steadily  trending  westward,  and  was  satisfied  he  was  then 
in  the  Arctic  and  following  the  northern  coast  to  the  west.  Convinced  that  he  had 
fulfilled  his  instructions  and  demonstrated  the  feet  that  Asia  and  America  were  separate 
continents,  and  being  unprepared  for  a  winter  voyage,  he  I'etni'ned  to  Kamtehatka. 
How  far  America  lay  to  the  eastward  of  Asia  he  knew  not,  for  no  land  had  been 
observed  in  that  direction,  and  he  was  totally  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  he  had,  l)0th  in 
going  and  returning,  passed  through  the  narrow  channel  separating  the  tw(j  con- 
tinents and  been  within  a  few  miles  of  the  American  shove.  This  was  made 
evident  a  few  years  later,  and  Behring's  name  was  bestowed  upon  the  straits. 
The  elusive  northwest  passage  had  been  found,  though  it  took  many  years  to 
discover  that  as  a  means  of  communication  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  it  was 
absolutely  impracticable.  That  Behring's  passage  meets  the  requirements  of  the 
Straits  of  Anian  as  depicted  by  Maldonado,  both  in  latitude  and  general  features,  can- 
not be  denied,  but  to  navigate  the  North  sea  as  described  by  him  and  to  j^ass  through 
the  tortuous  straits  he  locates  in  the  75th  parallel  into  the  Atlantic  is  utterly  impos- 
sible ;  and,  therefore,  Behring's  straits  cannot  be  looked  upon  as  lending  any  support 
to  the  romance  with  which  the  unscrupulous  Maldonado  regaled  the  Council  of  the 
Indies. 

The  next  year  Behring  undertook  to  reach  America  by  sailing  directly  eastward, 
but  adverse  winds  forced  him  into  the  Gulf  of  Okotsk,  and  he  abandoned  the  under- 
taking and  proceeded  to  St.  Petersburg.  During  the  next  few  years  many  other 
expeditions  by  laud  and  sea,  one  of  which  was  driven  upon  the  coast  of  Alaska  in 
1732,  more  clearly  defined  the  Asiatic  coast,  and  the  nature  of  the  passage  between 
it  and  America.  The  Empress  Anne  prepared  for  another  expedition,  but  dying 
before  it  was  ready  to  sail,  was  succeeded  by  Elizabeth,  who  dispatched  two  vessels, 
the  <Sy.  rctn-  and  St.  Paul,  from  the  Bay  of  Avatscha  on  the  fourth  of  June.  The 
former  was  commanded  by  Behring  and  the  latter  by  Alexei  Tchirikof,  who  had  been 
liis  lieutenant  on  the  former  voyage.  The  vessels  were  soon  separated  in  a  gale  and 
were  not  again  luiited.  Tchirikof  returned  on  the  eighth  of  October,  having  reached 
a  group  of  islands  on  the  coast  in  latitude  AG  degrees,  where  sixteen  of  his  men  were 
slaughtered  Ijy  the  natives,  and  having  loot  twenty-one  of  his  crew  by  scurvy,  includ- 
ing the  distinguished  French  naturalist  Delile  de  Crayere. 

Of  the  discoveries  made  by  Behring  and  the  sufferings  endured  liy  the  crew  of  the 
St.  Peter,  the  only  record  is  that  of  a  journal  kept  by  Steller,  the  German  surgeon  and 
naturalist,  which  was  first  published  in  full  in  170o,  though  its  tenor  and  leading  fea- 
tures were  known  at  a  much  earlier  date.  Its  nautical  and  geographical  details  are 
not  as  definite  as  could  be  desired.  It  seems  that  Behring  sailed  south-easterly  as  tar 
us  the  46th  parallel  without  encountering  land  and  then  steered  to  the  northeast  as  far 
as  the  6()th  degree,  when  he  discovered  an  immense  snow-covered  mountain  which  he 
named  8t.  Elias  because  it  was  first  seen  on  the  eighteenth  of  July,  the  day  assigned  to 
that  saint  in  the  Russian  calender.  Entering  a  narrow  passage  between  an  island  and 
the  mainland  a  strong  current  of  discolored  water  was  observed,  indicating   the  pres- 


3G  PACIFIC   COAST. 

ence  of  a  large  river  whose  size  proved  the  land  through  which  it  flowed  to  be  of  con- 
tinental proportions.  The  conclusion  was  at  once  reached  that  America  had  been 
found;  but  Behring,  who  was  ill,  refused  to  explore  the  coast  to  the  southeast  in  the 
direction  of  the  Spanish  possessions,  and  set  out  upon  the  return  voyage.  Delayed  and 
baffled  by  violent  winds  and  the  many  islands  of  the  Aleutian  group,  but  slow  pro- 
gress was  made.  For  two  months  they  wandered  or  were  driven  about  by  furious 
winds  in  the  open  sea  to  the  south  of  the  archipelago,  famine  and  disease  claiming 
their  victims  almost  daily.  "The  general  distress  and  mortality,"  says  the  journal  of 
the  surgeon,  "increased  so  fast  that  not  only  the  sick  died,  but  those  who  j^retended  to 
be  healthy  when  released  from  their  posts  fainted  and  fell  down  dead;  of  which  the 
scantiness  of  water,  the  want  of  biscuits  and  brandy,  cold,  wet,  nakedness,  vermin,  and 
terror,  Avere  not  the  least  causes."  On  the  fifth  of  November  they  landed  upon  an 
island  with  the  purpose  of  spending  the  winter  there,  and  constructed  huts  from  the 
wreck  of  their  vessel  which  was  dashed  by  the  waves  upon  the  beach  soon  after  the 
landing  was  effected.  Behring  died  on  the  eighth  of  December,  and  during  the  winter 
thirty  of  the  crew  followed  him.  The  survivors,  having  lived  upon  sea  and  land 
animals  killed  on  the  island,  constructed  a  small  vessel  from  pieces  of  the  wreck,  and 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  Bay  of  Avatscha  the  following  August.  The  little  island 
where  they  had  spent  the  winter  and  where  were  buried  their  commander  and  so  many 
of  their  comrades,  they  named  Behring's  Isle  ;  it  lies  about  eighty  miles  from  the  Kamt- 
chatkan  coast,  and  consists  of  granite  peaks  thrust  up  from  mid  ocean,  against  which 
the  waves  dash  with  ceaseless  fury. 

No  disposition  was  manifested  hj  the  rulers  of  Russia  to  prosecute  further  dis- 
coveries for  more  than  twenty  years.  Individual  enterprise,  however  accomplished 
something.  The  returning  survivors  of  Behring's  ill-fated  expedition  took  with  them 
the  skins  of  animals  which  had  served  them  as  food  during  that  terrible  winter,  and 
sold  them  at  high  prices.  This  led  to  short  voyages  eastward  in  quest  of  furs,  the 
beginning  of  that  enormous  fur  trade  in  the  Pacific  which  was  for  years  a  bone  of  con- 
tention between  nations  and  which  led  to  the  first  settlement  and  occupation  of  Oregon. 
It  is  thus  described  by  Greenhow: 

"  The  trade  thus  commenced  was,  for  a  time,  carried  on  by  individual  adventurers, 
each  of  whom  was  alternately  a  seaman,  a  hunter,  and  a  merchant ;  at  length,  how- 
ever, some  capitalists  in  Siberia  employed  their  funds  in  the  jsursuit,  and  expeditions 
to  the  islands  were,  in  consequence,  made  on  a  more  extensive  scale,  and  with  greater 
regularity  and  efficiency.  Trading  stations  were  established  at  particular  points,  where 
the  furs  were  collected  by  persons  left  for  that  object;  and  vessels  were  sent,  at  stated 
periods,  from  the  ports  of  Asiatic  Russia,  to  carry  the  articles  required  for  the  use  of 
the  agents  and  hunters,  or  for  barter  with  the  natives,  and  to  bring  away  the  skins 
collected. 

"  The  vessels  employed  in  this  commerce  were,  in  all  respects,  wretched  and  inse- 
cure, the  jjlanks  being  merely  attached  together,  without  iron,  by  leathern  thongs  ;  and^ 
as  no  instruments  were  used  by  the  traders  for  determining  latitudes  and  longitudes  at 
sea,  their  ideas  of  the  relative  positions  of  the  places  which  they  visited  were  vague 
and  incorrect.  Their  navigation  was,  indeed,  performed  in  the  most  simple  and  un- 
.scientific  manner  possible.     A  vessel  sailing  from  the  Bay  of  Avatscha,  or  from  Cajie 


i^ 


PACIFIC    COAST.  37 

Lopatka,  the  southern  extremity  of  Kaniteliatka,  couhl  not  have  gone  tar  eastward, 
without  falling  in  with  one  of  the  Aleutian  islands,  which  would  serve  as  a  mark  for 
her  course  to  another ;  and  thus  she  might  go  on  from  point  to  point  throughout  the 
whole  chain.  In  like  manner  she  would  return  to  Asia,  and  if  her  course  and  rate  of 
sailing  were  observed  with  tolerable  care,  there  could  seldom  be  any  uncertainty  as  to 
whether  she  were  north  or  south  of  the  line  of  the  islands.  Many  vessels  were,  never- 
theless, annually  lost,  in  consequence  of  this  want  of  knowledge  of  the  coasts,  and 
want  of  means  to  ascertain  positions  at  sea ;  and  a  large  number  of  those  engaged  in 
the  trade,  moreover,  fell  victims  to  cold,  starvation  and  scurvy,  and  to  the  enmity  of 
the  bold  natives  of  the  islands.  Even  as  late  as  1806,  it  was  calculated  that  one-third 
of  these  vessels  were  lost  in  each  year.  The  history  of  the  Russian  trade  and  estab- 
lishments on  the  north  Pacific,  is  a  series  of  details  of  dreadful  disasters  and  suffer- 
ings ;  and,  whatever  opinion  may  be  entertained  as  to  the  humanity  of  the  adventurers, 
or  the  morality  of  their  proceedings,  the  courage  and  j)erseverance  displayed  by  them, 
in  struggling  against  such  appalling  difficulties,  must  command  universal  admiration. 

"  The  furs  collected  by  these  means,  at  Avatscha  and  Ochotsk,  the  principal  fur- 
trading  points,  were  carried  to  Irkutsk,  the  capital  of  Eastern  Siberia,  whence  some  of 
them  were  taken  to  Europe ;  the  greater  portion  were,  however,  sent  to  Kiakta,  a  small 
town  just  within  the  Russian  frontier,  close  to  the  Chinese  town  of  Maimatchin,  through 
which  |)laces  all  the  commerce  between  these  two  empires  passed,  agreeably  to  a  treaty 
concluded  at  Kiakta  in  1728.  In  return  for  the  furs,  which  brought  higher  prices  in 
China  than  anywhere  else,  teas,  tobacco,  rice,  porcelain,  and  silk  and  cotton  goods,  were 
brought  to  Irkutsk,  where  all  the  most  valuable  of  these  articles  were  sent  to  Europe. 
These  transportations  were  effected  by  land,  except  in  some  i:)laces  where  the  rivers 
were  used  as  the  channel  of  conveyance,  no  commercial  exportation  having  been  made 
from  Eastern  Russia  by  sea  before  1779  ;  and  when  the  immense  distances  between 
some  of  the  points  above  mentioned  are  considered  (Irkutsk  to  Pekin,  1,300  miles  ;  to 
Bay  of  Avatscha,  3,450  miles;  to  St.  Petersburg,  3,760  miles),  it  becomes  evident  that 
none  but  objects  of  great  value,  in  comparison  with  their  bulk,  at  the  place  of  their 
consumption,  could  have  been  thus  transported  with  profit  to  those  engaged  in  the 
trade,  and  that  a  large  portion  of  the  price  paid  by  the  consumer  must  have  been  ab- 
sorbed by  the  expense  of  transportation.  A  skin  was,  in  fact,  worth  at  Kiakta  three 
times  as  much  as  it  cost  at  Ochotsk." 

Such  was  the  crude  beginning  of  that  enormous  trade  in  furs  which  in  a  few  years 
s})rang  up  in  the  Pacific,  and  for  which  English,  American  and  Russian  traders  com- 
])eted.  China  was  then,  and  is  to-day,  the  greatest  consumer  of  furs,  which  were  for 
years  taken  to  Pekin  overland,  as  described  above;  but  in  1771  a  cargo  of  peltries 
was  taken  direct  to  Canton  under  peculiar  circumstances.  In  the  month  of  May  a 
few  Polish  exiles,  sent  to  that  bleak  and  inhospitalile  wilderness  for  political  reasons? 
succeeded  in  escaping  to  sea  in  a  small  vessel  from  a  harl^or  on  the  southwest  coast  of 
Kamtchatka,  being  led  by  Count  Maurice  de  Benyowsky,  a  Hungarian.  They  entered 
the  Pacific  and  after  being  driven  hither  and  thither  among  the  islands,  stopping  fre- 
ijuently  to  procure  furs,  they  finally  arrived  at  Canton,  the  first  vessel  from  the  North 
Pacific  to  reach  any  ports  frequented  liv  ships  of  other  nations,  demonstrating  the  fact 
tliat  the  icy  waters  idxiut   Iviimtchatka  and  Alaska  liclong  to  the  snme  great  ocean  as 


38  PACIFIC   COAST. 

those  of  the  South  sea  that  hished  the  rocky  hhiffs  of  Cape  Horn,  or  hipped  the  sands 
of  the  Philippines. 

Other  Russian  voyages  of  exploration  were  made  to  the  ea.stward  of  Kanitehatka 
in  1766  and  1769  ;  and  in  1774  an  official  account  of  these  voyages  was  published  in 
St.  Petersburg,  entitled  "  Description  of  the  Newly  Discovered  Islands  in  the  Sea 
between  Asia  and  America."  This  was  accompanied  by  a  map  which  embodied  the 
ideas  of  Pacific  coast  geograjihy  which  then  prevailed.  By  it  the  American  coast 
north  of  California  was  made  to  run  northwesterly  to  the  70th  parallel.  Between  this 
point  and  the  coast  of  Asia  was  represented  a  broad  open  sea  dotted  with  islands,  many 
of  which  bore  the  same  names  and  were  identical  with  the  larger  ones  of  the  Atlantic 
group,  though  by  no  means  properly  located.  Alaska,  or  Aliaska,  was  represented  as 
a  great  island  with  Asia  on  one  side  and  America  on  the  other,  separated  from  Asia  by 
the  narrow  channel  of  Behring's  straits,  and  it  was  many  years  before  it  was  known 
that  Alaska  was  a  portion  of  the  main  land  of  America. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

SPANISH  MISSIONS  AND  SETTLEMENTS  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

Spain  Appeals  to  the  Jesuits  for  Aid -The  Society  of  Jesus  Plan  of  Father  Kino-  The  Mission  of  Our  Lady 
of  Loretto  Founded  by  Father  Tierra— Attack  upon  the  Mission— Method  of  Conducting-  Missionary  Work- 
Expulsion  of  the  Jesuits— The  Pearl  of  Our  Lady  of  Loretto— The  Franciscans  Invade  Alta  California— San 
Diego  Founded  by  Father  Junipero  Serra— Discovery  of  San  Francisco  Bay-The  Mission  at  San  Diego  Saved 
from  Abandonment  by  the  timely  Arrival  of  Supplies— Founding  of  Missions  at  Monterey  and  San  Antonia  de 
Padua— The  Growth  and  Downfall  of  the  Mission  System. 

For  a  century  aud  a  half  after  Cortes  planted  the  first  colony  on  the  peninsula  of 
California,  the  viceroys  of  Mexico,  in  an  indissolute  manner,  had  undertaken  to  carry 
out  the  will  of  their  sovereigns  that  colonies  be  established  aud  maintained  on  the 
coast  of  California,  but  w^ithout  success.  When  the  Mexican  authorities  decided  that 
such  an  undertaking  was  impossible  of  accomplishment,  the  government  appealed  to 
the  powerful  Society  of  Jesus  to  undertake  the  task,  hoping  thus  to  win  by  the  cross 
what  could  not  be  conquered  with  the  sword ;  but  an  offer  of  |40,000  annually  from 
the  royal  treasury  to  aid  them  in  establishing  missions  was  refused  by  the  Jesuits,  and 
the  crown  abandoned  the  hope  of  accomplishing  anything  whatever. 

At  that  time  the  Society  of  Jesus  was  the  most  wealthy  and  by  reason  of  its 
secrecy  and  perfect  discipline  and  the  intelligence,  devotion  and  influence  of  its  mem- 
bers, the  most  powerful  organization  which  has  ever  existed.  It  had  its  ramifications 
in  every  land  where  was  the  symbol  of  the  cross,  and  its  faithful  subjects  hesitated  not 
to  plunge  into  the  unknown  wildernesses  of  the  New  World  to  carry  the  light  of  Chris- 
tianity to  the  "nations  sitting  in  darkness"  far    beyond  the  confiues  of  civilization. 


PACIFIC    COAST.  3a 

Their  lives  weighed  as  nothing  against  the  glory  of  their  Heavenly  Master  and  the 
extension  of  Christ's  kingdom  npon  earth.  It  mattered  not  to  what  nation  they  be- 
longed, for  the  French  priests  in  Canada  and  Louisiana  dipslayed  the  same  zeal  as  did 
the  Spaniards  in  Mexico  and  California.  They  were  imbued  with  the  same  spirit  and 
sought  the  same  end — the  extension  of  the  kingdom  of  Jesus  and  the  power  of  the 
order  which  bore  his  name.  Though  the  government  subsidy  was  declined  from 
motives  of  policy,  the  conversion  of  these  heathen  nations  was  determined  upon,  to  be 
accomplished  by  the  society  with  its  own  resources. 

With  the  unsuccessful  expedition  of  Admiral  Otondo  was  a  monk  who  had  volun- 
tarily abandoned  a  lucrative  and  honorable  position  to  become  an  emissary  of  the  cross. 
While  lying  at  the  point  of  death  he  had  made  a  vow  to  his  patron  Saint,  Francis 
Xavier,  that  if  he  should  recover,  he  would  devote  the  remaining  years  of  his  life  to 
following  the  noble  example  of  his  patron.  He  recovered,  resigned  his  professorship, 
and  crossed  the  sea  to  Mexico,  and  eventually  became  a  missionary  and  one  of  the 
most  zealous  members  of  the  Society  of  Jesus.  He  was  a  German  by  birth,  and  his 
name  in  his  native  land  was  Kuhn,  but  the  Spaniards  have  recorded  it  as  Father 
Eusebio  Francisco  Kino.  He  had  become  strongly  impressed  in  his  visit  to  the  coun- 
try with  the  feasibility  of  a  plan  by  which  the  land  might  be  taken  possession  of  and 
held.  His  object  was  not  alone  the  conquest  of  a  kingdom,  but  the  conversion  of  its 
inhabitants,  and  the  saving  of  souls.  His  plan  was  to  go  into  the  country  and  teach 
the  Indians  the  principles  of  the  Catholic  faith,  educate  thera  to  support  themselves  by 
tilling  the  soil,  anil  improvement  through  the  experience  of  the  advantages  to  be  ob- 
tained by  industry;  the  end  of  all  being  to  raise  up  a  Catholic  province  for  the  Span- 
ish crown,  and  people  Paradise  with  the  souls  of  converted  heathen.  The  means  to  be 
employed  in  accomplishing  this,  were  the  priests  of  the  Society  of  Jesuits,  protected  by 
a  small  garrison  of  soldiers  and  sustained  by  contributions  from  those  friendly  to  the 
enterprise.  The  mode  of  applying  the  means  was,  to  first  occupy  some  favorable  place 
in  the  country,  where  a  storehouse  and  a  church  could  be  erected  that  would  render 
till'  fathers"  maintenance  and  life  comparatively  secure.  This  would  give  them  an 
opportunity  to  win  the  confidence  of  the  Indians,  by  a  patient,  long-continued,  uniform 
system  of  affectionate  intercourse  and  just  dealing,  and  then  use  their  appetites  as  the 
means  by  which  to  convert  their  souls.  These  establishments  were  to  be  gradually 
extended  northward  until  Spain  had  control  of  the  whole  coast. 

With  no  hope  of  reward,  except  beyond  the  grave,  but  with  a  prospect  of  defeat 
and  a  probability  of  martyrdom,  Father  Kino  started,  on  the  twentieth  of  October, 
1G8G,  to  travel  over  Mexico,  and,  by  preaching,  urge  his  views  and  hopes  of  the  enter- 
prise. He  soon  met  on  the  way  a  congenial  spirit.  Father  Juan  Maria  Salva  Tierra  ; 
and  then  another,  Father  Juan  Ugarte,  added  his  great  executive  ability  to  the  cause. 
Their  united  efforts  resulted  in  obtaining  sufficient  funds  by  subscrij)tion.  Then  they 
procured  a  warrant  from  the  king  for  the  order  of  Jesuits  to  enter  upon  the  conquest 
of  California  at  their  own  expense,  for  the  benefit  of  the  crown.  The  order  was 
given  February  -J,  1(')'J7,  and  it  had  rei^uired  eleven  years  of  constant  urging  to  pro- 
cure it.  ( )ctober  tenth,  of  the  same  year,  Salva  Tierra  sailed  from  the  coast  of  Mexico 
to  put  in  o[)eration  Kino's  long-cherished  scheme  of  conquest.  The  expedition  con- 
.sisted   of  one  small    vessel  and   a   long-l)oat,  in   which  were  provisions,  tlie    necessary 


40  PACIFIC   COAST. 

ornaments  and  furniture  for  fitting  up  a  rude  church,  and  Father  Tierra,  accompanied 
by  six  soldiers  and  three  Indians.  Father  Tierra,  afterwards  visitadore  general  of  the 
missions  of  California,  was  born  in  Milan,  of  Spanish  ancestry  and  noble  parentage. 
Having  completed  his  education  he  joined  the  Society  of  Jesus  and  went  to  Mexico  as 
a  missionary  in  1675,  where  he  had  labored  twenty-two  years  among  the  various 
native  tribes.  He  was  robust  in  health,  exceedingly  handsome  in  person,  talented, 
firm  and  resolute,  and  filled  to  overflowing  with  that  religious  zeal  which  shrinks  from 
no  form  of  martyrdom.  His  associate,  Father  Juan  Ugarte,  was  equally  zealous  and 
possessed  of  much  skill  in  handling  the  stubborn  and  unreasoning  natives. 

On  the  nineteenth  of  October,  1697,  they  reached  the  point  selected  on  the  east 
coast  of  the  peninsula,  and  says  Yenegas  :  "  The  provisions  and  animals  were  landed, 
together  with  the  baggage ;  the  Father,  though  the  head  of  the  expedition,  being  the 
first  to  load  his  shoulders.  The  barracks  for  the  little  garrison  were  now  built,  and  a 
line  of  circumvallation  thrown  up.  In  the  center  a  tent  was  pitched  for  a  temporary 
chapel ;  before  it  was  erected  a  crucifix,  with  a  garland  of  flowers.  *  '•'  * 

The  image  of  our  Lady  of  Loretto,  as  patroness  of  the  conquest,  was  brought  in  pro- 
cession from  the  boat,  and  placed  with  proper  solemnity.  Immediately  Father  Tierra 
initiated  the  plan  of  conversion.  He  called  together  the  Indians,  explained  to  them 
the  catechism,  prayed  over  the  rosary,  and  then  distributed  among  them  a  half  bushel 
of  boiled  corn.  The  corn  was  a  success,  but  the  prayers  and  catechism  were  "  bad 
medicine."  They  wanted  more  corn  and  less  prayers,  and  helped  themselves  from  the 
sacks.  This  was  stopped  by  excluding  them  from  the  fort,  and  they  were  kindly 
informed  that  corn  would  be  forthcoming  only  as  a  reward  for  attendance  and  atten- 
tion at  devotions.  This  created  immediate  hostility,  and  the  natives  formed  a  con- 
spiracv  to  murder  the  garrison  and  possess  themselves  of  the  corn  without  restrictions. 
Happily  the  design  was  discovered  and  frustrated.  A  general  league  was  then  entered 
into  among  several  tribes,  and  a  descent  was  made  upon  the  fort  by  about  five  hundred 
Indians.  The  priest  rushed  upon  the  fortifications  and  warned  them  to  desist,  begging 
them  to  go  away,  telling  them  that  they  would  be  killed  if  they  did  not ;  but  his 
solicitude  for  their  safety  was  responded  to  by  a  number  of  arrows  from  the  natives, 
when  he  came  down  and  the  battle  began  in  earnest.  The  assailants  went  down  like 
grass  before  the  scythe,  as  the  little  garrison  opened  with  their  fire-arms  in  volleys 
upon  the  unprotected  mass,  and  they  immediately  beat  a  hasty  retreat,  and  sent  in  one 
of  their  number  to  beg  for  peace,  who,  says  Yenegas  :  "  With  tears  assured  our  men 
that  it  was  those  of  the  neighboring  rancheria  under  him  who  had  first  formed  the  plot, 
and  on  account  of  the  paucity  of  their  numbers,  had  spirited  up  the  other  nations  ; 
adding,  that  those  being  irritated  by  the  death  of  their  companions  were  for  revenging 
them,  but  that  both  the  one  and  the  other  sincerely  repented  of  their  attempt.  A 
little  while  after  came  the  women  with  their  children,  mediating  a  peace,  as  is  the  cus- 
tom of  the  country.  They  sat  down  Aveeping  at  the  gate  of  the  camp,  with  a  thousand 
promises  of  amendment,  and  offering  to  give  up  their  children  as  hostages  for  the 
performance.  Father  Salva  Tierra  heard  them  with  his  usual  mildness,  showing  them 
the  wickedness  of  the  procedure,  and  if  their  husbands  would  behave  better,  promised 
them  peace,  an  amnesty,  and  forgetfulness  of  all  that  was  past ;  he  also  distributed 
among  them  several  little  presents,  and  to  remove  any  mistrust  they  might  have  he 


',v 


PACIFIC   COAST.  41 

took  one  of  the  children  in  hostage,  and  thus  they  returned  in  high  spirits  to  the 
raneherias."  The  sokliers'  guns  had  taught  them  respect,  and  the  sacks  of  corn  en- 
ticed them  back  for  the  priests  to  teach  them  the  Catholic  faith. 

The  manner  in  which  these  indefatigable  missionaries  overcame  the  indolence, 
viciousness  and  ignorance  of  the  natives  was  practically  the  same  as  that  pursued  in 
all  the  missions  afterwards  established,  and  is  thus  described  by  Venegas : 

In  the  morning,  after  saying  mass,  at  which  he  (Father  Ugarte)  obliged  them  to  attend  with 
order  and  respect,  he  gave  a  breakfast  of  pozoli  to  those  who  were  to  work,  set  them  about  build- 
ing the  church  and  houses  for  themselves  and  his  Indians,  clearing  ground  for  cultivation,  making 
trenches  for  convej^ance  of  water,  holes  for  jjlautmg  trees,  or  digging  and  preparing  the  ground 
for  sowing.  In  the  building  part.  Father  Ugarte  was  master,  overseer,  carpenter,  bricklayer  and 
laborer.  For  the  Indians,  though  animated  by  his  example,  could  neither  by  gifts  uor  kind 
speeches  be  j^revailed  upon  to  shake  oif  their  innate  sloth,  and  were  sure  to  slacken  if  they  did 
not  see  the  father  work  harder  than  any  of  them;  so  he  was  the  first  in  fetching  stones,  treading 
the  clay,  mixing  the  sand,  cutting,  carrying  and  barking  the  timber;  removing  the  earth  and  fixing 
materials.  He  was  equally  laborious  in  the  other  tasks,  sometimes  felling  the  trees  with  his  axe, 
sometimes  with  his  spade  in  his  hand  digging  up  the  earth,  sometimes  with  an  iron  crow  splitting 
rocks,  sometimes  disposing  the  water-trenches,  sometimes  leading  the  beasts  and  cattle,  which  he 
had  procured  for  his  mission,  to  pasture  and  water;  thus  by  his  own  example,  teaching  the  several 
kinds  of  labor.  The  Indians,  whose  narrow  ideas  and  dullness  could  not  at  first  enter  into  the 
utility  of  these  fatigues,  which  at  the  same  time  dej^rived  them  of  their  customary  freedom  of 
roving  among  the  forests,  on  a  thousand  occasions  sufficiently  tried  his  patience — coming  late,  not 
caring  to  stir,  running  away,  jeering  him  and  sometimes  even  forming  combinations,  and  threat- 
ening death  and  destruction;  all  this  was  to  be  borne  with  unwearied  patience,  having  no 
other  recourse  than  affability  and  kindness,  sometimes  intermixed  with  gravity  to  strike  respect; 
also  taking  care  not  to  tire  them,  and  suit  himself  to  their  weakness.  In  the  evening  the  father 
led  them  a  second  time  in  their  devotions;  in  which  the  rosary  was  prayed  over,  and  the  catechism 
explained;  and  the  services  was  followed  by  the  distribution  of  some  provisions.  At  first  they 
were  verj- troublesome  all  the  time  of  the  sermon,  jesting  and  sneering  at  what  was  said.  This 
the  father  bore  with  for  a  while,  and  then  proceeded  to  reprove  them;  but  finding  they  were  not 
to  be  kept  in  order,  he  make  a  very  dangerous  experiment  of  what  could  be  done  by  fear.  Near 
him  stood  an  Indian  in  high  rejjutation  for  strength,  and  who,  presuming  on  his  advantage,  the 
only  quality  esteemed  by  them,  took  upon  himself  to  be  more  rude  than  the  others.  Father  Ugarte, 
who  was  a  large  man,  and  of  uncommon  strength,  observing  the  Indian  to  be  in  the  height  of  his 
laughter,  and  making  signs  of  mockery  to  the  others,  seized  him  by  the  hair  and  lifting  him  up 
swung  him  to  and  fro;  at  this  the  rest  ran  away  in  the  utmost  terror.  They  soon  returned,  one 
after  another,  and  the  father  so  far  succeeded  to  intimidate  them  that  they  behaved  more  regularlj' 
in  the  future. 

Of  the  same  priest  and  his  labors  in  starting  another  mission  he  says : 

He  endeavored,  by  little  presents  and  caresses,  to  gain  the  aftections  of  his  Indians;  not  so 
nmeh  that  they  should  assist  him  in  the  building  as  that  they  might  take  a  liking  to  the  catechism, 
which  he  explained  to  them  as  well  as  he  could,  by  the  help  of  some  Indians  of  Loretto,  while  he 
was  perfecting  himself  in  their  linguage.  But  his  kindness  was  lost  on  the  adults,  who,  from  their 
invincible  sloth,  could  not  be  brought  to  help  him  in  any  one  thing,  though  they  partook  of,  and 
used  to  be  very  urgent  with  him  for  pozoli  and  other  eatables.  He  was  now  obliged  to  have 
recourse  to  the  assistance  of  the  boys,  who,  being  allured  by  the  father  with  sweetmeats  and  pres- 
ents, accompanied  him  wherever  he  would  have  them;  and  to  habituate  these  to  any  work  it  was 
necessary  to  make  use  of  artifice.  Sometimes  he  laid  a  wager  with  them  who  should  soonest  pluck 
up  the  mesquites  and  small  trees;  sometimes  he  offered  reward  to  those  who  took  away  most  earth; 
and  it  suffices  to  say  that  in  forming  the  bricks  he  made  himself  a  boy  with  boys,  challenged  them 
to  play  with  the  earth,  and  dance  upon  the  clay.  The  father  used  to  take  oft' his  sandals  and  tread 
it,  in  which  he  was  followed  by  the  boys  skipping  and  dancing  on  the  clay  and  the  father  with  them. 
The  boys  sang,  and  were  highly  delighted;  the  father  also  sang,  and  thus  they  coutiuued  daucing 


42  PACIFIC   COAST. 

and  treading  the  clay  in  different  parts  till  meal-time.  This  enabled  him  to  erect  his  poor  dwelling 
and  church,  and  at  the  dedication  of  which  the  other  fathers  assisted.  He  made  use  of  several 
such  contrivances  in  order  to  learn  their  language;  first  teaching  the  boys  several  Spanish  words, 
that  they  might  afterwards  teach  him  their  language.  "When,  by  the  heljj  of  these  masters,  tlie 
interpreters  of  Loretto,  and  his  own  observation  and  discourse  with  the  adults,  he  had  attained  a 
sufficient  knowledge  of  it,  he  began  to  catechise  these  poor  gentiles,  using  a  thousand  endearing 
ways,  that  they  should  come  to  the  catechism.  He  likewise  made  use  of  his  boys  for  carrying  on 
their  instruction.  Thus,  with  invincible  patience  and  firmness  under  excessive  labors,  he  went  on 
humanizing  the  savages  who  lived  on  the  spot,  those  of  the  neighboring  rancherias,  and  others, 
whom  he  sought  among  woods,  breaches  and  caverns;  going  about  everywhere,  that  he  at  length 
administered  baptism  to  many  adults,  and  brought  this  new  settlement  into  some  form. 

This  plan  of  subduing  the  natives  and  obtaining  spiritual  and  temporal  control 
over  them  was  adhered  to  for  seventy  years.  The  expense  of  this  great  undertaking 
can  be  gathered  from  the  record  of  the  first  eight  years,  during  which  |o8,000  were 
expended  in  establishing  six  missions  and  $1, 225,000  in  supporting  the  indolent 
savages  dependent  upon  them. 

On  the  second  of  April,  1767,  all  members  of  the  Society  of  Jesus  in  the  Spanish 
dominions  were  arrested  and  thrown  into  prison  upon  the  order  of  Charles  III.,  against 
whose  life  they  were  charged  with  consjjiring.  Nearly  six  thousand  were  subjected  to 
that  decree,  including  the  Jesuit  missionaries  in  California  and  other  dependencies  of 
Spain.  The  execution  of  the  decree  in  California  fell  to  the  lot  of  Don  Caspar  Portala, 
governor  of  the  province,  who  assembled  the  j^ious  Fathers  at  Loretto  on  Christmas 
eve  and  imparted  to  them  the  sad  news  of  which  they  had  till  then  been  entirely 
ignorant.  When  the  time  came  for  them  to  take  their  final  departure  from  the  scene 
of  seventy  years  of  labor  and  self-abnegation  a  most  pathetic  scene  was  enacted.  With 
loud  cries  and  lamentations  the  peoj^le  broke  through  the  line  of  soldiers  stationed  to 
hold  them  back,  and  rushed  upon  the  Fathers  to  kiss  their  hands  and  bid  them  fare- 
well. "Adieu,  dear  Indians;  adieu,  California;  adieu,  land  of  our  adoj)tion ;  fiat 
■voluntas  Dei"  was  the  brief  and  eloquent  farewell  of  those  fifteen  holy  men,  as  they 
turned  their  backs  upon  the  scene  of  their  long  labors  and  became  wanderers  and  out- 
casts, under  the  ban  of  the  sovereign  whose  power  they  had  established  where  he  had 
sought  in  vain  to  plant  it  for  a  century  and  a  half  They  left  behind  them  the  record 
of  having  become  the  pioneers  in  the  culture  of  the  grape  and  in  the  making  of  wine 
on  this  coast,  having  sent  to  Mexico  their  vintage  as  early  as  1706.  They  were  the 
pioneer  manufacturers,  having  taught  the  Indians  the  use  of  the  loom  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  cloth  as  early  as  1707.  They  built,  in  1719,  the  first  vessel  ever  launched  from 
the  soil  of  C^alifornia,  calling  it  the  Triuniph  of  the  Cross.  Two  of  their  number  suf- 
fered martyrdom  at  the  hands  of  the  Indians,  and  the  living  were  rewarded  for  those 
years  of  toil,  privation  and  self-sacrifice,  by  banishment  from  the  land  they  had  sub- 
dued ;  leaving,  for  their  successors,  sixteen  flourishing  missions,  and  thirty-six  villages, 
US  testimonials  of  the  justice  and  wisdom  of  their  rule. 

The  historic  village  of  Loretto,  where  was  established  the  initial  mission  of  Cali- 
fornia, is  situated  on  the  margin  of  the  gulf,  in  the  center  of  St.  Dyonissius  cove.  Some 
of  the  buildings  are  now  a  mass  of  ruins,  while  others  are  fast  going  to  decay,  many 
being  destroyed  by  the  great  storm  of  1827.  The  church  built  by  the  Jesuits  in  1742 
is  still  standing,  and  among  the  relics  of  its  former  greatness  are  eighty-six  oil  paint- 
ings, some  of  them  by  Murillo,  and  though  more  than  a  century  old  still  in  a  good 


PACIFIC    COAST.  43 

State  of  preservation.  It  wa.s  a  former  custoiii  of  the  pearl  divers  to  devote  tiie  product 
of  certain  days  to  "Our  Lady  of  Loretto,"  and  on  one  occasion  there  fell  to  her  lot  a 
magnificent  pearl  as  large  as  a  pigeon's  egg  and  wonderfully  pure  and  brilliant.  This 
the  Fathers  thought  proper  to  present  to  the  Queen  of  Spain,  who  in  return  sent  to 
our  Lady  of  Loretto  an  elegant  new  gown  ;  but  as  this  could  not  be  worn  by  the  virgin 
in  the  spirit  land  and  was  not  of  the  style  of  garment  most  in  fashion  at  Loretto,  it  was 
(if  no  practical  utility,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  her  majesty  had  the  better  of 
the  transaction. 

Upon  the  Brotherhood  of  St  Francis  the  king  bestowed  the  missions  and  accumu- 
lated wealth  of  the  Jesuits  in  California ;  but  soon  after  possession  was  taken  by  them 
the  Dominicans  laid  claim  to  a  portion.  The  controversy  ended  in  the  surrender  by 
the  Franciscans  of  all  rights  granted  them  in  Lower  California  upon  the  condition  that 
they  be  granted  full  authority  in  Alta  California  to  found  missions  and  take  possession 
of  the  country  in  the  name  of  the  Catholic  sovereign  of  Spain.  They  hoped  thus  to 
become  possessed  of  a  land  where  legend  and  imagination  had  located  the  rich  mines  of 
gold  and  silver  from  which  had  come  the  vast  treasures  of  which  Cortes  had  despoiled 
the  Aztecs  ;  and  in  thus  gaining  wealth  for  their  order  they  w^ould  also  spread  the  story 
of  the  cross  and  bring  within  the  pale  of  the  Holy  Catholic  Church  thousands  of  souls 
then  groping  in  the  darkness  of  heathenism. 

Father  Francis  Junipero  Serra,  at  the  head  of  the  Franciscan  order  in  ^Mexico, 
was  a  man  cast  in  no  common  mould.  He  was  educated  from  his  youth  to  the  church, 
was  possessed  of  great  eloquence,  enthusiasm  and  magnetic  power,  and  had  gained 
reputation  and  experience  in  the  missions  of  Mexico.  Peculiarly  fitted  for  the  work 
before  him,  he  entered  upon  it  with  a  zeal  that  admitted  not  of  failure  or  defeat.  It 
was  his  jilan  to  establish  missions  at  San  Diego,  Monterey  and  some  intermediate  point 
,  immediately,  and  extend  them  gradually  as  circumstances  should  dictate.  In  pursu- 
ance of  this  programxne  an  expedition  was  dispatched  in  1769  to  settle  and  take 
possession  of  California,  with  the  purpose,  as  Joseph  DeGalvez  states  it,  "  to  establish 
the  Catholic  religion  among  a  numerous  heathen  people,  submerged  in  the  obscure 
darkness  of  paganism  ;  to  extend  the  dominion  of  the  King,  our  Lord  ;  and  to  protect 
the  peninsula  from  the  ambitious  rulers  of  foreign  nations."  This  was  to  be  done  by 
the  Franciscans,  according  to  the  royal  decree,  at  their  oivn  expense,  though  the  bene- 
fits were  to  inure  chiefly  to  the  crown  of  Spain,  whose  dominion  was  to  be  largely 
increased  and  a  greater  measure  of  protection  afforded  the  American  possessions  and 
commerce. 

It  was  deemed  advisable  to  divide  the  expedition,  and  send  a  portion  of  it  by  sea 
in  their  three  vessels,  leaving  the  remainder  to  go  from  Mexico  overland  by  way  of 
the  most  northerly  of  the  old  missions.  Accordingly,  on  the  ninth  of  January,  1709, 
tlie  ship  San  Carlos  sailed  from  La  Paz,  followed  on  the  fifteenth  of  February  by  the 
San-  Antonio.  The  last  to  sail  was  the  San  Joseph,  on  the  sixteenth  of  June,  and  she 
was  never  heard  from  afterwards.  The  vessels  were  all  loaded  with  provisions,  numer- 
ous seeds,  grain  to  sow,  farming  utensils,  church  ornaments,  furniture  and  passengers, 
their  destination  being  the  port  of  San  Diego.  The  first  to  reach  that  })lace  was  the 
San  Antonio,  which  arrived  on  the  eleventh  of  A2iril,  after  losing  eight  of  her  crew 
l)v  the  scurvv.     Twciitv  davs  hiter  the  San  Carlos  made  her  laboriou.<  wav  into    port, 


44  PxVCIFIC   COAST. 

with  only  the  captain,  the  cook  and  one  seaman  left  of  her  crew,  the  others  having 
fallen  victims  to  that  terrible  scourge  of  the  early  navigators. 

The  overland  party  was  also  divided  into  two  companies  ;  one,  under  command  of 
Fernanda  Revera  Moncada,  was  to  assemble  at  the  northern  limit  of  the  peninsula, 
where  was  located  the  most  northerly  mission,  and  take  two  hundred  head  of  black 
cattle  over  the  country  to  San  Diego,  the  point  where  all  were  to  meet  in  the  new 
land  to  be  subdued.  Revera  set  out  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  March,  and  was  the  first 
European  to  cross  the  southern  deserts,  guarding  approaches  from  that  direction  to 
the  upper  coast.  He  reached  the  point  of  general  rendezvous  on  the  fourteenth 
of  May,  after  having  spent  fifty-one  days  in  the  journey.  The  governor  of  Cali- 
fornia, Gaspar  de  Portala,  took  command  of  the  remaining  part  of  the  land 
expedition,  and  started  May  fifteenth,  from  the  same  place  on  the  frontier  that  had 
been  Revera's  point  of  departure,  He  was  accompanied  by  the  projector  of  the  en- 
terprise, Father  Junipero  Serra  himself,  and  arrived  at  San  Diego  on  the  first  of  July, 
where  this,  the  last  company  to  reach  the  rendezvous,  was  received  with  great  demon- 
strations of  joy  by  those  who  had  arrived  by  sea  and  land  many  long  weeks  before. 

The  members  of  the  several  divisions,  with  the  exception  of  those  who  died  at 
sea,  were  now  all  on  the  ground  at  San  Diego,  and  Father  Junipero  was  not  a  man  to 
waste  time.  In  looking  over  his  resources  for  accomplishing  the  work  before  him, 
he  found  that  he  had,  including  converted  Indians  who  had  accompanied  him,  about 
two  hundred  and  fifty  souls,  and  everything  necessary  for  the  founding  of  the  three 
missions,  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  grazing  the  land  and  exploring  the  coast,  except 
sailors  and  provisions.  So  many  of  the  former  having  died  on  the  voyage,  it  was 
deemed  advisable  for  those  who  remained  to  sail  on  the  San  Antonio  for  San  Bias,  to 
procure  more  seamen  and  supplies.  They  accordingly  put  to  sea  for  that  purpose  on 
the  ninth  of  July,  and  nine  of  the  crew  died  before  the  port  was  reached.  The  next 
thing  in  order  was  to  found  a  mission  at  San  Diego,  and  it  will  be  interesting  to  know 
what  was  the  ceremony  which  constituted  the  founding  of  a  mission.  Father  Francis 
Palou,  the  historian  of  the  Franciscans,  thus  describes  it :  "  They  immediately  set 
about  taking  possession  of  the  soil  in  the  name  of  our  Catholic  monarch,  and  thus  laid 
the  foundation  of  the  mission.  The  sailors,  muleteers  and  servants  set  about  clearing 
away  a  place,  which  was  to  serve  as  temporary  church,  hanging  the  bells  (on  the  limb 
of  a  tree,  possibly)'  and  forming  a  grand  cross.  ''  '■'  '■^  The  venerable 
father  president  blessed  the  holy  water,  and  with  this  the  rite  of  the  church  and  then 
the  holy  cross ;  which,  being  adorned  as  usual,  was  planted  in  front  of  the  church. 
Then  its  patron  saint  was  named,  and  having  chanted  the  first  mass,  the  venerable 
president  pronounced  a  most  fervent  discourse  on  the  coming  of  the  Holy  Spirit  and 
the  establishment  of  the  mission.  The  sacrifice  of  the  mass  being  concluded,  the 
Veni  Cre«/r;r  was  then  sung;  the  want  of  an  organ  and  other  musical  instruments 
being  supplied  by  the  continued  discharge  of  firearms  during  the  ceremony,  and  the 
want  of  incense,  of  which  they  had  none,  by  the  smoke  of  the  muskets." 

This  ceremony  was  performed  on  the  sixteenth  day  of  July,  1769.  Two  days 
prior  to  that  Governor  Portala  had  started  northward  with  the  greater  portion  of  the 
force  to  re-discover  the  port  of  Monterey.  For  three  and  one-half  months  he  pursued 
his  slow,  tortuous  way  up  the  coast,  passing  Monterey  without  recognizing  it.     On  the 


I 


•i^SPHB^^'^^^'^^^^W 


F-^;?=F=^;3f--'-Tggf-^f??t"~Ti:^T  -fia^-iag- 


=^a=ga=3^E 


^5£J5E3?E3^; 


WAGNRi 

Farm  Residences  of  R.V.  Beall  and  ThS.P 


.'^s^...    ^%te^ 


k^.:dm.^^ikMi^'*'^-'hi^k^. 


I"  4f-   w   -L| 


.^m 


3all,near  Central  Point,  Jackson  Co. 


PACIFIC   COAST.  45 

thirtieth  of  October  they  eanie  upon  a  bay  which  Father  Crespi;  who  accompanied  the 
expedition,  says  "  they  at  once  recognized"  What  caused  them  to  recognize  it?  Had 
they  ever  heard  of  it  before  ?  This  is  the  first  unquestioned  record  of  the  discovery  of 
the  San  Francisco  harbor.  In  all  the  annals  of  history  there  is  no  evidence  of  its 
ever  having  been  seen  before,  except  that  sailing  chart  previously  mentioned.  Yet  the 
exception  is  evidence  strong  as  holy  writ,  that  in  1740  the  bay  had  been  found  but  had 
received  no  recorded  name.  Portala  and  his  followers  believed  a  miracle  had  been 
performed,  that  the  discovery  was  due  to  the  haiid  of  Providence,  and  that  St.  Francis 
had  led  them  to  the  place.  When  they  saw  this  land-locked  bay  in  all  its  slumbering 
grandeur,  they  remembered  that,  before  leaving  Mexico,  Father  Junipero  had  been 
grieved  because  the  vistado re  general  had  not  placed  their  jDatron  saint  upon  the  list 
of  names  for  the  missions  to  be  founded  in  the  ne^v  country,  and  when  reminded  of 
the  omission  by  the  sorrowing  j^riest,  he  had  replied  solemnly,  as  from  matured  reflec- 
tion :  "  If  St.  Francis  wants  a  mission,  let  him  show  you  a  good  port,  and  we  will  put 
one  there."  "A  good  port"  had  been  found — one  where  the  fleets  of  the  world  could 
ride  in  safety,  and  they  said  "  St.  Francis  has  led  us  to  his  harbor,"  and  they  called  it 
"  San  Francisco  Bay." 

Portala  returned  to  San  Diego,  arriving  January  '24,  1770,  where  he  found  a  very 
discouraging  condition  of  affairs.  The  small  band  left  at  San  Diego  had  passed 
through  perils  and  difficulties  of  which  it  is  unnecessary  to  speak  in  detail ;  but  the 
stubborn  bravery  and  uniform  kindness  of  the  missionaries  had  -brought  them  safely 
through.  There  now  threatened  a  danger  that  unless  averted  would  disastrously 
terminate  the  expedition.  Portala  took  an  inventory  of  supplies  and  found  there 
remained  only  enough  to  last  the  expedition  until  March  ;  and  he  dicided  that  if  none 
arrived  by  sea  before  the  twentieth  of  that  month,  to  abandon  the  enterprise  and 
return  to  Mexico.  The  day  came,  and  with  it,  in  the  offing,  in  plain  view  of  all,  a 
vessel.  Preparations  had  been  completed  for  the  abandonment,  but  it  was  postponed 
because  of  the  appearance  of  the  outlying  ship.  The  next  day  it  was  gone,  and  the 
colony  believed  then  that  a  miracle  had  been  jDerformed,  and  their  patron  saint  had 
permitted  the  sight  of  the  vessel  that  they  might  know  that  help  was  coming.  In  a 
few  days  the  San  Antonio  sailed  into  the  harbor  with  abundant  stores,  and  they  learned 
that  the  vision  they  had  looked  uj^on  was  the  vessel  herself;  she  having  been  forced 
by  adverse  winds  to  put  to  sea  again,  after  coming  in  sight  of  land. 

Upon  the  arrival  of  the  San  Antonio,  two  other  expeditious  set  out,  in  search  of 
Monterey  harbor,  one  by  sea  and  another  by  land,  the  latter  in  charge  of  Governor 
Portala.  The  party  by  sea  was  accomjianied  by  the  father  president  himsdf,  who 
writes  of  that  voyage,  and  its  results,  as  follows:  "On  the  thirty-first  day  of  May, 
by  the  favor  of  (lod,  after  a  rather  painful  voyage  of  a  month  and  a  half,  this  packet, 
San  Anf'niin,  arrived  and  anchored  in  this  horrible  port  of  3Iontcreij,  which  is  unal- 
tered in  any  degree  from  what  it  was  when  visited  by  the  expedition  of  Don  Sebastian 
A'iscaino,  in  the  year  l(K>o."  He  goes  on  to  state  that  he  found  the  governor  awaiting 
him,  having  reached  the  place  eight  days  earlier.  He  then  describes  the  manner  of 
taking  possession  of  the  land  for  the  ci'own  on  the  third  day  of  August.  This  cere- 
mony was  attended  by  salutes  from  the  battery  on  board  ship,  and  discliarges  of 
nuisketrv  l)v  the  soldiers,  until  the  Indians  in   the  vicinitv  were  so  thorouiihlv  frioht- 


46  PACIFIC   COAST. 

eiied  at  the  noise  as  to  cause  a  stampede  among  them  for  the  interior,  from  whence 
they  were  afterwards  enticed  with  diffieuhy.  This  was  soon  followed  by  the  founding 
of  the  mission  of  San  Antonio  de  Padua. 

Governor  Portala  then  returned  to  Mexico,  bearing  the  welcome  intelligence  that 
Monterey  had  been  re-discovered,  that  a  much  finer  bay  had  also  been  found  farther 
north  which  they  had  named  after  St.  Francis,  and  that  three  missions  had  been 
established  in  the  new  land.  Upon  receipt  of  the  news,  the  excitement  in  Mexico  was 
intense.  Guns  were  fired,  bells  were  rung,  congratulatory  speeches  were  made,  and 
all  New  Spain  was  happy,  because  of  the  final  success  of  the  long  struggle  to  gain  a 
footing  north  of  the  peninsula. 

It  is  needless  to  follow  in  detail  the  record  of  the  Franciscans  in  California,  their 
labors,  privations  and  successs.  A  brief  summary  of  their  rise,  growth  and  downfall 
will  be  sufficient  to  enable  the  reader  to  understand  all  allusions  to  them  in  the  subse- 
quent pages. 

By  the  same  methods  the  Jesuits  had  practiced  in  Lower  California,  did  the 
Franciscans  seek  to  establish  their  missions  on  a  firmer  footing,  suffering  frequently 
from  the  hostility  of  the  natives,  but  gradually  overcoming  all  obstacles  and  creating 
populous  and  prosperous  missions  and  towns.  The  mission  of  San  Diego  was  founded 
July  16,  1769;  San  Carlos,  at  Monterey,  August  3,  1770;  San  Antonio  de  Padua, 
July  14,  1771 ;  San  Gabriel,  near  Los  Angeles,  September  8,  1771 ;  San  Luis  Obispo, 
in  September,  1772.  Father  Serra  then  went  to  Mexico  for  reinforcements  and  sup- 
plies, and  returned  the  next  spring  by  sea,  having  sent  Captain  Juan  Bautista  Anza 
with  some  soldiers  to  open  an  overland  route  by  which  more  rapid  and  certain  commu- 
nication could  be  maintained  with  the  home  country.  In  1774  Captain  Anza  returned 
to  Mexico  for  more  soldiers,  priests  and  supplies,  and  after  the  arrival  of  these  it  was 
determined  to  enlarge  the  field  of  operations  to  the  northward.  The  8an  Carlos  was 
dispatched  to  see  if  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  could  be  entered  from  the  ocean,  and 
in  June,  1775,  the  little  vessel  sailed  safely  through  the  Golden  Gate  and  cast  anchor 
where  so  many  thousand  vessels  have  since  been  securely  sheltered.  On  the  seven- 
teenth of  September,  1776,  the  presidio  (fort)  was  established  at  San  Francisco,  and  on 
the  tenth  of  October  the  misson  of  Dolores  was  founded,  followed  in  quick  succession  by 
those  of  San  Juan  Capistrano  and  Santa  Clara. 

From  this  time  the  missions  grew  rapidly  in  power  and  wealth,  and  pueblos 
(towns)  sprang  up,  occupied  chiefly  by  the  families  of  soldiers  who  had  served  their 
terms  in  the  array  and  preferred  to  remain  in  California.  Gradually  po23ulation  in- 
creased, until  in  1802  Humboldt  estimated  it  at  1,300,  to  which  he  added  15,562  con- 
verted Indians,  taking  no  account  of  the  wild  or  unsubdued  tribes,  which  we  know 
from  other  sources  largely  outnumbered  those  brought  within  the  influence  of  the  mis- 
sions. By  1822,  the  year  Mexico  declared  her  independence  of  Spain,  twenty-one 
missions  had  been  founded  and  were  in  a  prosperous  condition.  Two  years  later 
Mexico  adopted  a  republican  form  of  government,  and  from  that  time  dates  the  down- 
fall of  the  missionary  system.  The  Franciscans  had  complete  control  of  the  land, 
claiming  it  as  trustees  for  the  benefit  of  converted  natives,  and  discouraged  all  at- 
tempts at  colonization  as  calculated  to  weaken  their  power  and  frustrate  their  designs. 
When,  therefore,  in  1824,  the  Mexican  congress  passed  a  colonization  act,  giving  the 


PACIFIC    COAST.  47 

governor  of  California  power  to  make  grants  of  land  to  actnal  settlers,  it  was  considered 
a  direct  and  fatal  blow  at  the  mission  monopoly.  From  this  time  the  missions  were  a 
leading  element  in  Mexican  politics,  and  they  gradnally  declined  before  the  encroach- 
ments of  the  civil  power  until,  in  1845,  the  property  which  had  survived  the  pillage 
and  decay  of  the  previous  ten  years  was  sold  at  auction,  and  the  missions  were  at  an 
end.  A  year  later  the  inauguration  of  the  Bear  Flag  war  by  Fremont  was  followed  by 
the  conquest  of  the  country  from  Mexico,  and  California,  redeemed  from  anarchy 
misrule  and  revolution,  became  a  jjortion  of  the  United  States. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


DISCOVERIES  WESTWARD  FROM  THE  ATLANTIC. 

Foreign  claims  in  America— Florida,  Mexico,  California,  Alaska,  Louisiana,  Canada,  and  the  English  Colonic  s— 
Treaty  of  Ryswick— Treaty  of  Utrecht— Sale  of  Louisiana  to  Spain— Carver's  Explorations  on  the  Mississippi 
—Oregon,  the  River  of  the  West— Origin  of  the  Name— Journey  of  Samuel  Hearne  to  the  Arctic  Ocean- 
England  offers  a  Reward  for  the  Discovery  of  a  Northwest  Passage. 

To  understand  in  their  full  significance  the  motives  and  acts  of  the  various  nations 
contending  for  dominion  in  the  Pacific,  the  status  of  their  claims  throughout  America 
must  be  kejit  carefully  in  view.  England  had  colonies  along  the  Atlantic  coast  from 
Maine  to  Carolina  and  had  full  possession  of  the  vast  region  about  Hudson's  bay. 
France  held  possession  of  Louisiana,  extending  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  in- 
definitely northward  and  westward,  and  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  great  region  lying 
to  the  westward  embraced  under  the  general  title  of  Canada ,  and  by  exploring  to  the 
west  along  and  beyond  the  great  lakes  and  north  along  the  Mississippi,  had  thus 
united  Canada  and  Louisiana  and  rendered  the  Alleghanies  the  extreme  western  limit 
of  England's  Atlantic  colonies.  Spain  had  undis})uted  pos.session  of  Central  America. 
Mexico,  California  and  Florida  ;  while  Russia  claimed  Alaska  and  the  adjacent  islands, 
The  boundary  line  between  these  various  possessions  was  extremely  uncertain  and  con- 
tinued to  be  for  years  a  fruitful  source  of  trouble  and  a  theme  for  diplomatic  contro- 
versy. 

In  1(3U7  the  treaty  of  Ryswick  was  concluded,  which  was  intended  to  define,  as 
I'learly  as  the  knowledge  of  American  geograjjhy  would  permit,  the  boundaries  of  these 
various  possessions.  Spanish  Florida  was  then  limited  on  the  north  by  the  Carolina 
colonies,  while  its  western  limit  was  left  exceedingly  indefinite,  confiieting  severely 
with  the  P^rench  claim  to  Louisiana.  North  of  Florida  and  west  of  the  Alleghanies 
France  claimed  the  entire  country,  either  as  a  portion  of  Loui.siana  or  Canada,  includ- 
ing Hudson's  bay,  the  latter  claim  being  based  upon  the  explorations  of  Labrador  by 
Cortereal.     At  the  treatv  ot   Utrecht   in   1713,  following  a  disastrous  struggle   with 


48  PACIFIC   COAST. 

Great  Britain,  France  relinquished  her  claim  to  Hudson's  ba}',  Newfoundland  and 
Nova  Scotia.  During  the  next  quarter  of  a  century  the  energetic  Frenchmen  estab- 
lished a  chain  of  forts  and  settlements  from  Quebec  to  New  Orleans,  taking  absolute 
and  actual  possession  of  the  country  and  cutting  off  the  westward  extension  of  Florida 
on  the  one  hand  and  the  northeastern  limits  of  Mexico  and  California  on  the  other. 

Thus  matters  stood  until  the  disastrous  war  between  England  and  France  involved 
the  American  colonies  in  bloody  strife  and  turned  over  the  exposed  settlements  to  the 
tender  mercies  of  the  Indian  tomahawk  and  scalping  knife.  Worsted  in  the  strife-, 
France,  after  her  colonial  star  was  stricken  from  the  sky  by  the  gallant  Wolfe  on  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  but  before  the  final  seal  to  her  defeat  was  affixed  by  the  treaty  of 
Paris,  secretly  conveyed  to  Spain  her  province  of  Louisiana,  and  thus  robbed  her 
victorious  enemy  of  one  of  the  greatest  fruits  of  her  conquest.  The  terms  of  the 
conveyance,  made  in  1762,  defined  the  western  and  southern  limit  of  Louisiana  and 
the  eastern  and  northern  boundary  of  Mexico  and  California,  to  follow  the  course  of 
the  Sabine  river  from  its  mouth  to  latitude  32  degrees,  thence  north  to  the  Red  river, 
and  following  that  stream  to  longitude  23  degrees,  thence  north  to  the  Arkansas  and 
up  that  river  to  latitude  42  degrees,  which  line  it  followed  to  the  Pacific.  It  was  thus 
that  even  after  the  acquisition  of  Canada,  England  found  her  possessions  bounded  on 
the  west  by  the  great  "  Father  of  Waters."  This  was  the  situation  in  America  when 
the  Russians  opened  the  Alaskan  fiir  trade  and  Spain  perfected  her  claim  to  Cali- 
fornia by  planting  there  the  missions  of  St.  Francis. 

It  was  now  a  century  since  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  chartered,  and  it  had 
not  yet  discovered  the  northwest  passage,  though  that  was  the  leading  object  stated  in 
the  charter ;  nor,  indeed,  had  the  company  made  any  earnest  effort  so  to  do.  The  belief 
still  obtained  that  the  Straits  of  Anian  existed,  or,  at  least,  that  some  great  river,  such 
a  stream,  possibly,  as  the  Rio  de  los  Reyes,  could  be  found  flowing  into  the  Pacific, 
which  was  navigable  eastward  to  within  a  few  miles  of  some  harbor  accessible  to 
vessels  from  the  Atlantic.  If  either  of  these  existed,  they  were  naturally  to  be  looked 
for  in  the  region  dominated  by  the  great  fur  monopoly.  The  discovery  of  such  a 
means  of  communication  was  .earnestly  desired  by  the  English  crown,  yet  the  com- 
pany was  sufficiently  powerful  to  prevent  or  at  least  render  fruitless  all  efforts  to 
explore  its  dominions.  All  explorations  that  gave  any  new  geographical  light  were 
conducted  beyond  the  company's  domain  and  contrary  to  its  desires. 

It  has  been  shown  how  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  had  been  visited  by 
French  missionaries  and  exjilorers,  both  from  Canada  and  Louisiana,  who  had  estab- 
lished a  fur  trade  with  the  natives  of  considerable  value.  Immediately  after  Canada 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  an  expedition  was  made  into  that  region  by  Captain 
Jonathan  Carver,  a  native  of  Connecticut,  who  had  served  with  distinction  in  the  war 
against  France  so  recently  brought  to  a  successful  termination.  .  He  left  Boston  in 
1766,  and  traveling  by  the  way  of  Detroit  and  Fort  Michilimacinac,  reached  the 
headwaters  of  the  Mississippi.  The  object  of  his  journey,  as  stated  in  his  account, 
was,  "  after  gaining  a  knowledge  of  the  manners,  customs,  languages,  soil  and  natural 
productions  of  the  different  nations  that  inhabit  the  back  of  the  MississipjM,  to  ascer- 
tain the  breadth  of  the  vast  continent  which  extends  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific 
ocean,  in  its  broadest  part,  between  the  43d  and  46th  degrees  of  north  latitude.     Had 


PACIFIC   COAST.  49 

I  been  al)ie  to  accomiilisli  this,  I  intended  to  have  proposed  to  tlie  government  to 
establish  a  post  in  some  of  those  parts,  abont  tlie  Straits  of  Anian,  wliich,  having  been 
(hscovered  by  Sir  Francis  Drake,  of  conrse  belongs  to  the  English.  This  I  am  con- 
vinced, wonld  greatly  facilitate  the  discovery  of  a  northwest  passage,  or  commnnication 
between  Hndsou's  bay  and  the  Pacific  ocean."  His  idea  that  the  Straits  of  Anian,  or 
any  other  passage  inland  from  the  Pacific,  had  been  discovered  by  Drake  was  an 
exceedingly  erroneons  one. 

Just  how  far  west  Carver  penetrated  is  uncertain,  and  his  claim  of  a  residence  of 
five  monlhs  in  that  region  is  a  doubtful  one.  since  the  accounts  of  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  the  natives  given  in  his  narrative  (published  twenty-five  years  later  in  London 
at  the  suggestion  of  a  number  of  gentlemen  who  hoped  the  proceeds  of  its  sale  would 
be  sufficient  to  relieve  the  author's  necessities;  he  died  in  1780,  in  penury),  are  but 
translations  into  English  of  the  writings  of  Hennepin,  Lahontan,  Charlevoix  and 
other  French  explorers.  To  him,  however,  must  be  credited  the  first  use  of  the 
name  "  Oregon,"  which  is  given  in  the  following  connection  :  ''  From  these  natives, 
together  with  my  own  observations,  I  have  learned  that  the  four  most  capital  rivei's 
on  the  continent  of  North  America — viz.,  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Mississippi,  the  River 
Bourbon  (Red  River  of  the  North),  and  the  Oregon,  or  River  of  the  West — have 
their  sources  in  the  same  neighborhood.  The  waters  of  the  three  former  are  within 
thirty  miles  of  each  other  ;  [This  is  practically  correct,  and  this  point,  somewhere  in 
Western  Minnesota,  is  probably  the  limit  of  his  westward  journey.]  the  latter,  how- 
ever, is  rather  further  west.  This  shows  that  these  parts  are  the  highest  in  North 
America  ;  and  it  is  an  instance  not  to  be  paralleled  in  the  other  three  quarters  of  the 
world,  that  four  rivers  of  such  magnitude  should  take  their  rise  together,  and  each, 
after  running  separate  courses,  discharge  their  waters  into  different  oceans,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  two  thousand  miles  from  their  sources,  for  in  their  passage  from  this  spot  to 
the  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence,  east,  to  the  Bay  of  Mexico,  south,  to  Hudson's  Bay,  north, 
and  to  the  bay  at  the  Straits  of  Anian,  west,  each  of  these  traverse  upwards  of  two 
tliousand  miles." 

It  will  be  observed  that  Carver  lays  no  claim  to  having  visited  even  the  head- 
waters of  the  "Oregon,  or  River  of  the  West,"  and  the  probability  is  that  all  he  knew 
of  it  was  gathered  from  the  same  works  of  the  French  explorers  which  had  supplied 
the  other  leading  features  of  his  book,  though,  possibly,  like  them,  he  may  have  heard 
sncli  a  stream  spoken  of  by  the  Indians.  In  many  of  these  French  narratives  to 
which  he  had  access,  a  belief  is  asserted  in  the  existence  of  a  large  stream  flowing 
westward  from  the  vicinity  of  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  into  the  Pacific, 
founded  upon  information  given  by  the  natives ;  and  on  many  maps  of  the  eighteenth 
century  such  a  stream  was  indicated,  bearing  variously  the  names  "  River  of  the 
West,"  "River  Thegayo"  "  Rio  de  los  Reyes,"  and  "  River  of  Aguilar"  (the  one  whose 
mouth  Aguilar  reported  having  seen  in  latitude  43  degrees  in  the  year  1608.)  All 
tliat  was  new  in  Carver's  account  was  the  name  "Oregon,"  and  of  that  he  fails  to  give 
us  any  idea  of  its  meaning  or  origin.  Many  theories  have  been  advanced,  plausible 
and  even  possible,  but  none  of  them  susceptible  of  ]n'Oof,  and  the  probabilities  are  that 
the  word  is  one  of  Carver's  own  invention.  The  fact  that  he  stands  sponsor  foi-  the 
name  of  this  great  region,  is  all  that  entitles  Carver  and   his  plagiarisms  to  any  notice 


50  PACIFIC   COAST. 

in  this  volume  Avhatever.  The  first  definite  account  of  the  Eiver  of  the  West  was  one 
given  by  a  Yazoo  Indian  to  Lepagn  Dupratz,  a  French  traveler,  many  years  before 
Carver's  journey.  The  Indian  iisserted  that  he  bad  ascended  the  Missouri  north- 
westerly to  its  source,  and  that  beyond  this  he  encountered  another  great  river  flowing 
towards  the  setting  sun,  down  which  he  passed  until  his  j)rogress  was  arrested  by  hos- 
tilities existing  between  the  tribes  living  along  the  stream.  He  participated  in  the 
war,  and  in  a  certain  battle  his  party  captured  a  woman  of  a  tribe  living  further  west, 
from  whom  he  learned  that  the  river  entered  a  great  water  where  ships  had  been  seen 
sailing  and  in  them  were  men  with  beards  and  white  faces.  There  is  nothing  improb- 
able in  this  narrative,  in  the  light  of  ascertained  geographical  facts,  unless  it  be  the 
portion  relating  to  ships ;  even  that  is  possible,  or  may,  perhaps,  be  simply  an  embel- 
lishment of  the  story  by  the  Indian  or  Dupratz.  Several  maps  published  about  fifteen 
years  prior  to  Carver's  journey,  on  the  authority  of  this  narrative,  had  marked  upon 
them  such  a  stream  with  the  name  "  Great  River  of  the  West"  attached  to  it.  This 
fully  accounts  for  the  valiant  captain's  knowledge  of  such  a  stream,  though  it  clears 
up  none  of  the  darkness  surrouudiug  the  title  "  Oregon." 

In  1771  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  sent  Samuel  Hearne  on  a  tour  of  explora- 
tion of  the  regions  lying  to  the  westward  of  the  bay,  for  the  purpose  of  finding  a  rich 
mine  of  copper  which  the  Indians  had  frequently  spoken  of  and  whose  name  translated 
into  English,  was  The  Far-off  Metal  Eiver.  He  was  also  instructed  to  determine 
the  question  of  a  passage  westward  from  Hudson's  bay,  in  whose  existence  the  directors 
had  now  no  faith  Avhatever,  and  in  consequence  were  anxious  to  make  a  showing  of 
great  zeal  in  searching  for  it.  Hearne  discovered  Great  Slave  lake  and  its  connecting- 
rivers  and  lakes,  finally  reaching  the  Coppermine  river  and  following  the  stream  to  its 
point  of  discharge  into  the  Arctic  ocean.  This  body  of  water  he  conceived  and  re- 
ported to  be  a  great  inland  sea  of  a  character  similar  to  Hudson's  bay,  between  which 
two  bodies  of  water  there  was  evidently  no  connecting  passage.  He  also  learned  from 
the  natives  that  the  land  extended  a  great  distance  further  west,  beyond  high  moun- 
tains. The  result  of  his  journey,  since  it  tended  to  prove  that  no  passage  to  the  Pacific 
from  Hudson's  bay  could  be  possible,  was  quickly  communicated  to  the  British  Admi- 
ralty by  the  company,  though  the  journal  kept  by  Hearne  was  not  published  for  the 
benefit  of  the  jiublic  till  twenty  years  later. 

The  Admiralty  were  now  satisfied  that  a  further  search  for  a  strait  leading  west- 
ward from  Hudson's  bay  would  be  futile;  but  still  hoped  that  a  navigable  passage 
could  be  found  leading  from  Baffin's  bay  into  the  sea  discovered  by  Hearne  and  still 
another  one  from  this  new  ocean  into  the  Pacific.  Parliament  had  in  1845  offered  a 
reward  of  £20,000  to  anyone  discovering  a  passage  from  Hudson's  bav,  which  the 
company  had  carefully  rendered  nugatory,  and  now  Parliament,  in  1776,  again  passed 
an  act  ofiering  a  like  reward  to  any  English  vessel  entering  and  passing  through  any 
strait,  or  in  any  direction,  connecting  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  north  of  latitude  52 
degrees,  which  was  about  the  southern  limit  of  Hudson's  bay.  This  led  to  a  series  of 
voyages  by  English  navigators  in  the  Pacific  ocean,  stimulated  especially  by  the 
reports  which  about  that  time  reached  England  of  voyages  and  settlements  made  by 
representatives  of  Spain.  The  era  of  positive  discoveries  in  Oregon  was  coming  on 
apace. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


EXPLORATIONS    BY     LAND     AND    SEA. 

Strue:e:le  Between  Enp;land  and  Spain  for  Dominion  on  the  Pacific  Coast  Juan  Perez  Discovers  Port  San  Lorenzo 
or  Nootka  Sound  Martinez  Claims  to  Have  Seen  the  Straits  of  Fuca  Spanish  Explorers  Take  Possession 
of  the  Country  at  ihe  Bay  of  Trinidad  Fruitless  Search  for  the  Straits  of  Fuca  Heceta  Discovers  the  Mouth 
of  the  Columbia  and  Names  it  San  Roque  Inlet  Bodega  takes  Formal  Possession  on  George  III.'s  Archipelago 
and  Searches  for  the  Rio  de  los  Reyes-  He  also  takes  Possession  on  Prince  of  Wales  Island-  Vain  Search 
for  Aguilar's  River  on  the  Coast  of  Oregon  Discovery  of  Bodega  Bay  Practical  Result  of  these  Voyages  and 
England's  Solicitude  Voyage  of  Captain  James  Cook-  Discovery  of  Hawaiian  Islands  Cook  at  Nootka 
Sound— He  Passes  Through  Behring's  Straits  into  the  Arctic  Ocean  Death  of  Cook-  Return  of  the  Expedi- 
tion - -Arteaga  and  Bodega  Follow  Cooks  Route. 

The  proceedings  of  the  Sjoanish  nation  which  had  aroused  England  to  such  un- 
usual activity  in  exploring  the  northwest,  were  the  colonization  of  California  by  the 
Franciscans  which  has  already  been  spoken  of,  and  several  voyages  and  efforts  to  take 
possession  of  the  coast  still  further  to  the  north  which  were  made  soon  afterwards.  The 
struggle  between  England  and  Spain  for  dominion  in  the  unexplored  portion  of  the 
New  World  had  begun  in  earnest,  and  was  embittered  by  the  chagrin  of  the  latter  at 
the  manner  in  which  Louisiana  had  slipped  from  her  clutch  when  France  sold  it  to 
Spain  just  as  it  was  about  to  be  snatched  from  her  grasp. 

The  first  of  these  voyages,  and  it  must  be  remembered  the  first  voyage  of  explora- 
tion undertaken  by  Spain  along  the  northern  coast  for  one  hundred  and  seventy-one 
years,  was  that  of  Juan  Perez,  who  was  instructed  to  sail  as  far  north  as  the  60th  par- 
allel, and  to  then  explore  the  coast  southward,  landing  at  all  convenient  places  to  take 
possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  the  king  of  Spain.  On  the  twenty-fifth  of 
January,  1774,  Perez  sailed  from  San  Bias  in  the  corvette  Santiago,  piloted  by  Estivan 
Martinez,  and  stopped  both  at  San  Diego  and  Monterey,  sailing  from  the  latter  port  on 
the  sixteenth  of  June.  Thirty-two  days  later  he  espied  the  first  laud  seen  since  leav- 
ing Monterey,  in  latitude  o4  degrees,  probably  the  west  coast  of  Queen  Charlotte's 
island.  Simptoms  of  scurvy  beginning  to  be  observed  among  the  crcAV,  and  being  but 
poorly  supplied  with  the  requisites  for  a  long  voyage,  Perez  decided  not  to  attempt 
further  progress  north  in  his  little  vessel,  and  so  coasted  along  to  the  southward.  He 
proceeded  about  a  hundred  miles,  encountering  a  number  of  natives  in  their  canoes, 
with  whom  he  drove  a  profitable  trade  in  furs,  and  was  then  driven  to  sea  by  a  storm. 
He  again  discovered  land  on  the  ninth  of  August,  casting  anchor  at  the  entrance  of  a 
deep  bay  in  latitude  49  degrees  and  30  minutes  upon  which,  following  the  custom  which 
has  plastered  the  map  of  the  Pacific  coast  with  "Sans"  and  "  Santas,"  he  bestowed, 
the  name  Port  San  Lorenzo,  because  it  was  discovered  upon  the  day  specially  de- 
voted to  that  saint  in  the  Roman  calendar.  It  was  beyond  doubt  the  harbor  on  the 
west  coast  of  Vancouver  island  now  known  as  King  George's  or  Nootka  sound.     Hav- 


5-2  PACIFIC    COAST. 

ing-  enjoyed  a  profitable  trade  with  the  natives,  who  are  represented  as  being  of  a  much 
lighter  complexion  than  other  native  Americans,  Perez  weighed  anchor  and  sailed 
again  to  the  southward.  In  latitude  47  degrees  and  47  minutes  a  lofty,  snow-crowned 
peak  was  observed,  which  was  christened  Sierra  de  Santa  Rosalia,  being,  probably, 
the  one  subsequently  named  Mount  Olympus  by  English  explorers.  On  the  twenty- 
first  of  August  Perez  arrived  off  Cape  Mendocino,  whose  exact  latitude  he  then  de- 
termined, and  a  week  later  dropped  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Monterey.  This  voyage 
added  but  little  to  the  geographical  knowledge  of  the  coast,  since  no  thorough  explora- 
tions were  made  and  land  was  observed  only  in  a  few  places.  In  the  journal  of  the 
voyage  nothing  is  said  of  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  and  yet,  many  years  later  and 
long  after  the  .strait  had  been  entered  l)y  the  English  and  Puget  sound  explored,  the 
pilot  of  the  Santiago,  Martinez,  asserted  that  he  had  observed  a  wide  opening  in  the 
land  between  latitudes  48  and  49  degrees,  and  that  he  had  honored  the  point  of  land  on 
the  south  side  of  the  entrance  with  his  own  name.  Upon  the  strength  of  this  loug-de- 
laved  assertion,  Spanish  geographers  entered  upon  their  charts  as  Cape  Martinez  the 
point  of  land  now  universally  known  as  Cape  Flattery. 

The  return  of  Perez  with  the  information  that  America  extended  at  least  as  far 
north  as  the  latitude  54  degrees,  determined  the  Mexican  viceroy  to  dispatch  another 
expedition  in  quest  of  still  further  discoveries  as  far  as  the  65th  parallel.  The  Santinyo, 
commanded  ])y  Bruno  Heceta  and  piloted  by  Perez,  and  the  Sonora,  a  small  schooner 
under  the  command  of  Juan  de  Ayala  and  having  Antonio  ]\Ianrelle  for  a  pilot,  sailed 
from  San  Bias  March  15,  1775,  being  supplied  with  the  latest  chart  of  the  Pacific,  in 
which  the  reports  of  the  various  voyages  were  woven  together  by  the  fertile  imagination 
of  Bellin,  a  French  geographer.  They  were  accomjDanied  as  far  as  Monterey  by  the 
Sau  Carlos,  to  which  vessel  Ayala  Avas  transferred  before  reaching  that  port,  and  the 
command  of  the  Sonora  devolved  upon  Lieutenant  Juan  Francisco  de  la  Bodega  y 
Quadra. 

Sailing  from  Monterey  to  the  northward,  the  two  vessels  doubled  Cape  Mendocino 
and  anchored  on  the  tenth  of  June  in  a  roadstead,  which  was  named  Port  Trinidad, 
for  the  usual  reason  that  the  day  was  the  one  devoted  to  the  Trinity  on  the  calendar, 
that  fertile  source  of  Spanish  nomenclature.  Nine  days  later  the  voyage  up  the  coast 
was  resumed,  though  not  until  the  Spaniards  had  landed  and  with  proper  solemnity 
and  religious  ceremonies  taken  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  their  sovereign, 
including  the  planting  of  a  cross  with  appropriate  inscriptions  as  a  testimonial  monu- 
ment of  their  visit.  They  described  the  harbor  as  being  safe,  spacious  and  a  valualile 
one  to  commerce,  and  the  contiguous  country  agreeable  in  climate  and  having  a  fruitful 
soil ;  and  this  discovery  was  considered  by  Spanish  authorities  to  l^e  an  exceedingly 
valuable  one. 

Having  kept  out  to  sea  for  three  weeks,  they  again  sighted  land  in  latitude  48  de- 
grees and  27  minutes,  just  south  of  the  Straits  of  Fuca.  Since  the  Greek  pilot  had 
located  his  passage  between  latitudes  47  and  48  degrees,  as  wall  be  remembered,  in 
wliich  locality  it  was  indicated  on  their  chart,  the  explorers  naturally  coasted  to  the 
southward  in  searching  for  it,  thus  sailing  directly  away  from  its  entrance.  A  careful 
examination  of  the  coast  revealed  no  such  passage,  and,  satisfied  that  it  had  no  exis- 
tence, they  cast  anchor  near  a  small  island  off  the  coast  in  latitude  47  degrees  and   20 


i 


PACIFIC    COAST.  53 

minutes.  Here  seven  of  the  Sonnrax  crew,  who  were  sent  to  the  mauihiiid  to  i)roeure 
water  in  the  (Mily  boat  the  vessel  carried,  were  killed  by  the  natives  ;  and  the  island 
was  christened  Isla  de  Dolores,  oi-  Island  of  Sorrows,  lieing  the  same  one  afterwards 
called  Destruction  Island  by  an  English  captain,  because  of  a  similar  flite  which 
befel  a  jjortion  of  his  crew. 

Disheartened  by  this  disaster  and  observing  alarming  symptoms  of  scurvy  among 
his  crews,  Heceta  desired  to  return,  but  at  the  urgent  solieitatiou  of  the  other  officers 
reluctantly  consented  to  continue  the  voyage  northward.  A  few  days  later  a  severe 
storm  2)arted  the  vessels,  and  Heceta  then  abandoned  the  enterprise  and  started  to 
return  with  the  Santiago  to  Monterey.  He  soon  observed  land  on  the  ocean 
side  of  Vancouver  island,  in  latitude  50  degrees,  and  passing  by  Port  San  Lorenzo 
and  the  entrance  to  Juan  de  Fuca  straits  without;  observing  them,  he  again  saw  the 
coast  in  the  48th  parallel,  south  of  which  he  once  more  searched  for  the  passage  he 
had  so  carelessly  overlooked.  On  the  fifteenth  of  August,  1775,  he  came  opposite  an 
opening  in  the  land  in  latitude  46  degrees  and  17  minutes,  through  which  poured  a 
stream  of  water  so  forcibly  as  to  prevent  him  from  entering.  Satisfied  that  he  was  at 
the  outlet  to  a  great  river,  or,  possibly,  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  though  too  far  south 
for  this  according  to  his  chart,  Heceta  waited  a  day  with  the  hope  of  effecting  an 
entrance ;  but  in  this  he  was  doomed  to  disappointment,  and  abandoning  the  eftbrt  he 
continued  his  voyage  to  Monterey,  carefully  observing  the  intervening  coast,  of  which 
his  journal  contains  extremely  accurate  descriptions.  The  Catholic  calendar  was 
again  brought  into  requisition  to  supply  a  name  for  this  new  discovery,  and  since  the 
fifteenth  of  August  was  the  day  of  the  Assumption,  Heceta  called  it  Ensenada  de 
Asuncion  (Assumption  inlet);  the  sixteenth  being  set  apart  to  Saint  Roc,  he  called 
the  northern  promontory  Cape  San  Roque,  while  to  the  low  land  on  the  south  side 
of  the  entrance  he  gave  the  name  Cape  Frondoso  (Leafy  cape).  Beyond  question 
this  was  the  first  discovery  of  the  mouth  of  the  mighty  Columbia,  and  Mexican  charts, 
published  soon  after  the  return  of  Heceta,  had  indicated  upon  them  an  entrance  to 
the  land  at  that  point,  variously  denominated  Ensenada  de  Heceta,  and  Rio  de 
San  Ro(iae. 

In  the  meantime  Bodega  and  ^laurelle  were  persevering  in  their  attenq)t  to 
carry  out  the  original  plan  of  the  expedition,  and  were  still  endeavoring  to  reach  the 
()5th  parallel  in  the  little  Sonoru.  On  the  sixteenth  of  August  they  suddenly 
came  in  sight  of  land  both  to  the  north  and  east  of  them,  being  then,  according  to 
their  observations,  north  of  latitude  56  degrees,  and  at  a  point  which  their  chart  told 
them  was  1:35  leagues  distant  from  the  American  shore.  This  proved  to  l)e  the  large 
island  known  as  King  George  Ill's  Archipelago,  though  supposed  by  the  Span- 
iards to  be  a  portion  of  the  main  land.  A  large  mountain  rising  from  a  jutting  head- 
land and  draped  in  snow,  was  called  by  them  San  Jacinto,  though  it  was  a  few  years 
later  named  Mount  Edgecumb  by  Captain  Cook.  The  Spaniards  landed  to  take 
formal  possession  of  the  country  for  the  Spanish  crown  and  to  procure  a  supi)ly  of  fish 
and  watei,  to  both  of  which  ])roceedings  the  natives  fiercely  objected,  compelling  the 
intruders  to  pay  lil)cially  for  the  fish,  and  the  water  as  well,  and  derisively  tearing  up 
and  destroying  the  ci'oss  and  other  symbolic  monuments  the  would-be  po.ssessors  of 
theii-  land  had  erected.      The  vovaiic  northward  was    resumed,    but    upon    icaehiiio;  lati- 


U  PACIFIC   COAST. 

tude  58  degrees  Bodega  deemed  it  imi^nident  to  advance  farther  and  turned  again  to  the 
southward.  From  that  point  to  the  54th  parallel  the  coast  was  closely  scrutinized  for 
the  Rio  de  los  Reyes  of  Admiral  Fonte,  liut  as  the  romancing  admiral  had  located  his 
mythical  river  a  degree  farther  south  their  search  would  have  proven  in  vain  even  had 
the  stream  an  existence  beyond  its  creator's  fancy,  and  therefore  their  assertion  that 
no  such  river  existed  north  of  latitude  54  degrees  was  valueless  to  prove  Fonte's  great 
water  route  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic  to  be  a  myth.  On  the  twenty-fourth  of 
August  they  again  landed  to  take  j)ossession  of  the  country,  this  time  at  Port  Bucareli, 
named  in  honor  of  the  viceroy  under  whose  authority  the  expedition  was  dispatched,  on 
the  west  coast  of  Prince  of  Wales  Island.  From  this  place  they  casually  observed  the 
coast  at  various  j^oints  until  they  reached  the  Oregon  coast  in  latitude  45  degrees  and 
27  minutes,  when  they  began  a  careful  search  for  the  great  river  Martin  de  Aguilar 
claimed  to  have  discovered  in  1603.  Though  they  noticed  currents  of  water  setting  out 
from  the  land  in  various  places,  nothing  was  observed  indicating  a  stream  of  the  magni- 
tude described  by  Aguilar,  and  they  became  satisfied  that  none  such  existed  in  that 
locality ;  yet  they  observed  a  headland  which  was  recognized  as  answering  the  descrip- 
tion of  Cape  Blanco,  being,  no  doubt,  the  one  called  later  Cape  Orford  by  Captain 
Vancouver.  On  the  third  of  October  the  Sonora  entered  a  bay  supposed  to  be  that  of 
San  Francisco,  but  wdiich  proved  to  be  a  much  smaller  one  a  short  distance  north  of 
that  great  harbor,  and  was  therefore  named  Bodega  bay  by  the  discoverer  in  his 
own   honor. 

By  the  voyages  of  Perez,  Heceta  and  Bodega,  and  especially  the  latter,  which  was 
conducted  under  the  most  disadvantageous  conditions,  through  stormy  and  unknown 
seas,  in  a  small  vessel  Avhich  had  lost  its  only  boat,  and  with  a  crew  afflicted  with  that 
terrible  scourge  of  the  early  mariners,  the  scurvy,  Spain  justly  laid  claim  to  the  first 
exploration  of  the  Pacific  coast  from  which  even  an  approximately  correct  chart  could 
be  made;  especially  was  this  true  of  our  immediate  coast,  for  j^rior  to  these  explorations 
the  coast  between  Cape  Mendocino  and  Mount  San  Jacinto,  or  Edgecumb,  was  so  prac- 
tically unknown  that  in  regard  to  it  the  most  utterly  erroneous  ideas  prevailed. 

Condensed  reports  of  these  voyages,  containing  the  leading  features,  soon  reached 
England,  together  with  the  accounts  of  the  progress  Spain  was  making  in  her  scheme 
of  colonizing  California,  and  caused  much  anxiety  to  the  government.  With  her 
Florida  and  Louisiana  possessions  extending  indefinitely  westward,  with  her  California 
colonies  already  established  and  the  possibility  of  her  making  additional  settlements  at 
some  or  all  of  the  favorable  localities  on  the  northern  coast  where  her  representatives 
had  already  performed  the  ceremony  of  taking  formal  possession  in  the  name  of  the 
king,  the  prospect  of  Spain  soon  obtaining  control  of  the  whole  Pacific  of  America 
south  of  the  56th  parallel,  the  limit  to  which  Russian  explorations  formed  a  foundation 
for  a  claim  by  the  czar,  was  imminent.  With  the  zeal  which  England  would  exercise 
under  the  same  circumstances,  the  claim  of  Spain  would  be  perfected  in  ten  years,  and 
England  be  confined  in  North  America  to  Canada  and  the  possessions  of  her  fur  mo- 
nopoly around  Hudson's  bay.  The  prospect  was  far  from  pleasing,  and  nothing  l)nt 
the  indolence  of  Spain  saved  England  from  entire  exclusion  from  Pacific  Xorth  Amei- 
ica.  Yet  for  England  to  establish  colonies  in  opposition  to  those  of  Spain  was  jiractically 
impossible.     She  had  no  Mexico  to  form  a  base  of  o])eration  and   supplies,  but   could 


PACIFIC    COAST.  55 

hold  coinmiiiiication  with  them  only  by  means  of  a  long  and  hazardous  voyage  of  eight 
or  ten  months  around  Ci\pe  Horn  or  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Under  this  condition  of  affairs  England  looked  upon  the  discovery  of  a  northern 
passage  from  ocean  to  ocean  as  absolutely  necessary  to  further  her  interests  on  the  Pa- 
cific coast.  It  was  this  idea  of  the  situation  which  led  Parliament  to  renew  the  offered 
reward  spoken  of  at  the  close  of  the  last  chapter,  and  which  stimulated  English  ex- 
plorers into  that  great  activity  which  resulted  in  revealing  so  much  of  our  geography 
during  the  next  fifteen  years,  laid  the  foundation  for  the  claim  to  Oregon  which  Great 
Britain  so  strenuously  asserted,  and  gave  her  title  to  the  immense  territory  she  now 
possesses  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

About  this  time  Captain  James  Cook  returned  from  his  great  voyage  of  explora- 
tion in  the  South  sea  and  Indian  ocean,  having  established  the  fact  that  no  habitable 
land  existed  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Antarctic  circle  and  made  a  voyage  so  extensive  and  im- 
portant that  he  was  universally  recognized  as  the  leading  exjilorer  of  the  century.  To 
him  England  turned  in  her  hour  of  anxiety.  Here  was  the  man  above  all  others  to 
whom  could  be  entrusted  the  search  for  that  passage  so  vitally  important  to  British 
interests  in  the  Pacific,  with  the  assurance  that  whatever  skill,  diligence  and  the  most 
thorough  acquaintance  with  the  geographical  knowledge  and  theories  of  the  day  could 
accomplish  would  certainly  be  achieved.  This  task  Cook  at  once  undertook,  and  sailed 
upon  his  new  quest  with  high  hopes  of  winning  laurels  greater  than  those  which 
already  encircled  his  brow. 

The  instructions  given  to  Cook  by  the  Admiralty  were  very  minute  and  particular. 
He  was  directed  to  jiroceed  by  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  New  Zealand  and 
Otaheite  and  endeavor  to  reach  the  coast  of  New  Albion  in  the  latitude  45  degrees. 
To  the  name  New  Albion  the  English  government  had  tenaciously  clung  since  the 
time  Hir  Francis  Drake  so  christened  the  C^alifornia  coast  and  ceremoniously  took 
possession  in  the  name  of  the  queen.  To  England  there  was  much  in  a  simple  name, 
since  her  adherence  to  it  showed  her  resolution  to  claim  to  the  last  all  the  benefit 
which  could  possil)ly  be  derived  from  the  voyage  of  that  adventurous  marauder ;  and 
this  name  was  only  changed  for  another  when  the  basis  upon  which  the  English  claim 
to  Oregon  rested  was  also  altered.  Though  resolved  to  abate  not  one  whit  of  her  dis- 
covery rights,  England  was  careful  not  to  commit  the  least  overt  act  of  hostility  against 
any  rival  claimants  whatever.  Serious  trouble  had  roninicnced  with  her  Atlantic 
colonies ;  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill  had  been  fought  and  the  evacuation  of  Boston 
compelled  ;  the  whole  coast  from  Massachusetts  to  Georgia  was  in  a  state  of  armed  rebel- 
lion, encouraged  by  both  France  and  Spain,  who  appeared  upon  the  verge  of  offering- 
substantial  aid.  The  times  were  not  ]ii'opitious  for  England  to  assert  her  rights 
in  the  Pacific  in  a  niaiincr  bordering  in  the  least  upon  arrogance.  Under  the  circum- 
stances an  extiTHU'ly  modest  demeanor  was  considered  exceedingly  becoming,  and  Cook 
was  "strictly  enjoined,  on  his  way  thither,  not  to  touch  upon  any  part  of  the  Spanish 
dominions  on  the  western  continent  of  America,  unless  driven  to  it  by  some  unavoid- 
able accident ;  in  which  case  he  was  to  stay  no  longer  than  shoulil  be  absolutely  neces- 
sary, and  to  be  very  careful  not  to  give  any  umbrage  or  offence  to  any  of  the  inhal)i- 
tants  or  subjects  of  his  Catholic  majesty.  And  if,  in  his  farther  progress  northward, 
he   should   find   any  subjects  of  any  European   prince   or  state,   ujion    any  part  of  the 


56  PACIFIC    COASr. 

coast  which  he  might  think  proper  to  visit,  he  was  not  to  (Usturli  tlicni  or  give  them 
any  just  cause  of  offence,  l.)Ut,  on  the  contrary,  to  treat  them  with  civility  and  friend- 
ship." The  last  chai-ge  referred  especially  to  the  Russian  settlements  in  the  extrenu' 
north. 

But  little  positive  knowledge  was  possessed  in  England  of  the  geography  of  the 
coast  north  of  Cape  Mendocino.  To  be  sure  it  was  the  reports  of  Spanish  settlements 
in  California  and  of  several  important  voyages  of  exploration  recently  made  by  repre- 
sentatives of  that  nation,  which  had  created  such  anxiety  and  infused  such  zeal  into  the 
English  Admiralty ;  but  the  particulars  of  those  voyages  were  not  yet  received.  All 
that  was  really  known  of  the  northwest  coast  was  Avhat  could  be  learned  from  the 
records  of  Viscaino's  voyage  nearly  two  centuries  before,  from  the  indefinite  and  con- 
tradictory accounts  of  Russian  discoveries  in  Alaskan  waters,  and  the  recent  report  by 
Samuel  Hearne  that  the  continent  extended  many  miles  westward  from  the  Coppermine 
river.  Between  Viscaino's  most  northern  limit,  latitude  45  degrees,  and  the  extreme 
southern  point  reached  by  Tchirikof  in  the  56th  parallel,  there  was  a  vast  stretch  of 
coast  line  absolutely  unknown.  Cook  was  consequently  instructed  to  proceed  along  the 
coast  and,  "with  the  consent  of  the  natives,  to  take  posse-;sion  in  the  name  of  the  King 
of  Great  Britain  of  convenient  stations  in  such  countries  as  he  might  discover  that  had 
not  been  already  discovered  or  visited  by  any  other  European  power,  and  to  distribute 
among  the  inhabitants  such  things  as  will  remain  as  traces  of  his  having  been  there  ; 
but,  if  he  should  find  the  countries  so  discovered  to  be  uninhabited  he  was  to  take  pos- 
session of  them  for  his  sovereign,  by  setting  uji  jsroper  marks  and  descrijitions,  as  first 
discoverers  and  possessors."  This  was  exactly  what  Heceta  and  Bodega  had  done  for 
Spain  the  year  before,  though  of  this  fact  England  was  ignorant.  Cook  was  directed  to 
coast  along  to  the  6oth  parallel,  before  reaching  which  he  was  expected  to  find  it 
trending  sharply  towards  then  ortheast  in  the  direction  of  the  Coppermine  river,  the 
Admiralty  being  of  the  opinion  that  the  great  North  sea  visited  by  Hearne  was 
identical  with  the  Pacific.  From  that  point  he  was  to  explore  carefully  "  such  rivers 
or  inlets  as  might  appear  to  be  of  considerable  extent  and  pointing  towards  Hudson's 
or  Baffin's  bays,"  and  endeavor  to  sail  through  all  such  passages,  either  in  his  vessels 
or  in  snraller  ones  to  be  constructed  on  the  spot  from  materials  taken  with  him  for  that 
especial  purpose.  In  case  he  became  satisfied  from  the  configuration  of  the  coast  that 
no  such  passage  existed  and  that  the  Pacific  ocean  and  North  sea  were  not  identical,  he 
was  then  to  repair  to  the  Russian  settlements  at  Kamtchatka,  and  from  that  point  ex- 
plore the  seas  to  the  northward  "  in  further  search  of  a  northeast  or  northwest  passage 
from  the  Pacific  ocean  into  the  Atlantic  or  the  North  sea." 

To  carry  out  these  minute  and  exhaustive  instructions,  Cook  sailed  from  Plymouth 
July  12,  1776,  in  the  Resohdion,  the  vessel  he  had  just  taken  around  the  world,  ac- 
companied Ijy  Capt.  Cliarles  Clerke  in  the  Discovery.  The  crews  and  officers  were 
men  selected  carefully  for  this  expedition,  and  the  vessels  were  sujjplied  with  every 
nautical  and  scientific  instrument  which  could  in  any  possibility  be  needed,  as  Avell  as 
the  most  accurate  charts  at  the  command  of  the  government.  After  passing  the  Cajie 
of  Good  Hope,  Cook  spent  nearly  a  year  making  examinations  about  Van  Dieman's 
Land,  New  Zealand,  and  the  Friendly  and  Society  islands.  On  the  eighteenth  of  Jan- 
uary, 1778,  he  discovered  the  Hawaiian  islands,   that   most  imi)ortant   station   in   the 


i 


PACIFIC    COAST.  57 

Pacitic,  wliicli  he  called  Sandwich  islands  in  honor  of  the  first  lord  of  the  Admiralty 
under  whose  orders  he  was  sailing.  (Jii  the  .seventh  of  the  following  March  he  was 
delighted  with  a  glimpse  of  the  Oregon  coast,  or  New  Albion,  near  the  44tli  parallel, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Umpqua.  Contrary  winds  forced  him  as  far  south  as  the  mouth 
of  Rogue  river,  when,  the  wind  becoming  fair,  he  took  a  course  almost  due  north  and 
did  not  again  see  huid  until  just  above  the  48th  degree  of  latitude,  when  he  descried  a 
bold  headland  which  he  christened  Cape  Flattery  to  show  his  appreciation  of  the  flatter- 
ing condition  of  his  prospects. 

It  was  now  that  Cook  fell  into  the  same  error  which  had  so  sorely  baffled  and 
defeated  Heceta  and  Bodega  two  years  before.  Like  them,  having  reached  the  very 
southern  edge  of  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  he  turned  away  and  searched  for  them  to  the  south- 
ward, because  in  Lock's  nairative  they  had  been  located  between  latitudes  47  and  48 
degrees.  Finding  the  coast  line  unbroken.  Cook  pronounced  the  passage  a  myth,  and 
abandoning  the  search  sailed  northward,  passing  heedlessly  by  the  straits  for  which  he 
had  been  so  diligently  looking.  He  soon  dropped  anchor  in  a  safe  and  spacious  harbor 
in  latitude  49^  degrees,  which  he  called  King  George's  sound,  but  later  substituted 
Nootka  when  he  learned  that  such  was  its  Indian  title.  This  was,  beyond  doubt,  the 
Port  Lorenzo  entered  by  Perez  in  1774,  and  like  the  Spaniard,  Cook  reports  the 
natives  to  be  of  a  very  light  complexion  and  to  possess  ornaments  of  cojjper  and 
weapons  of  iron  and  brass.  This,  united  with  the  fact  that  one  of  them  had  suspended 
about  his  greasy  neck  two  silver  spoons  of  Spanish  manufacture,  and  because  they 
manifested  no  surprise  and  but  little  curiosity  about  the  ships,  and  seemed  not  to  be 
frightened  at  the  report  of  guns,  and  were  eager  to  barter  furs  for  a  valuable  considera- 
tion, especially  metals  of  all  kinds,  led  Cook  to  the  opinion  that  they  had  held  inter- 
course with  civilized  nations  in  former  times.  Their  supposed  familiarity  with 
firearms  was  soon  found  to  be  erroneous,  for  "one  day,  upon  endeavoring  to  ])rove  to 
us  that  arrows  and  spears  would  not  jienetrate  their  war-dresses,  a  gentleman  of  our 
company  shot  a  musket-ball  through  one  of  them  folded  six  times.  At  this  they  were 
so  much  staggered,  that  their  ignorance  of  fire-arms  was  plainly  seen.  This  was  after- 
Avards  confirmed  when  we  used  them  to  shoot  birds,  the  manner  of  which  confounded 
them."  This  discovery  and  other  facts  elicited  by  a  closer  observation  caused  Cook  to 
change  his  opinion  about  their  previous  intercourse  with  white  people.  In  speculating 
on  this  subject  he  says  that  though  "some  account  of  a  Spanish  voyage  to  this  coast 
in  1774  or  1775  had  reached  England  before  I  sailed,  it  was  evident  that  iron  was  too 
common  here,  was  in  too  many  hands,  and  the  use  of  it  too  well  known,  for  them  to 
have  had  the  first  knowledge  of  it  so  very  lately,  or,  indeed,  at  any  earlier  period,  by 
an  accidental  s^upply  from  a  sliij).  Doul)tless,  from  the  general  use  they  make  of  this 
metal,  it  might  be  supposed  to  come  from  some  constant  source,  by  way  of  trallic,  and 
that  not  of  a  very  late  date;  for  they  are  as  dexterous  in  usjng  their  tools  as  the 
longest  practice  can  make  them.  The  most  probable  way,  therefore,  by  whicli  we  can 
suppose  that  they  get  their  iron,  is  by  trading  for  it  with  other  Indian  tribes,  who 
either  have  innnediate  communication  with  Euroi)ean  settlements  upon  the  continent, 
or  receive  it,  perhaps,  through  several  intermediate  nati(ms ;  the  same  might  be  said  of 
the  'brass  and  copjier  found  amongst  them."  Tlie  indifference  of  the  natives  to  the 
shins,  in  rci;ard   to  which   tlicir  lack  of  curiositv  was   noticeable   and  had  been   one  of 


58  PACIFIC   COAST. 

tlie  causes  wliicli  at  first  led  him  to  suppose  they  were  fauiiliar  with  such  objects,  he 
atti'ibuted  "to  their  natural  indolence  of  temper  and  want  of  curiosity."  Cook's 
ignorance  of  the  vast  extent  of  the  American  continent  and  the  degree  of  civi- 
lization attained  by  the  various  aboriginal  nations  occu^iying  it,  must  be  his  excuse 
for  supposing  that  such  a  commodity  as  iron  could  have  been  transported  from  the 
Atlantic  coast  to  the  Pacific,  j^assing  from  hand  to  hand  through  numerous  tiibes  of 
Indians,  many  of  them  engaged  in  unceasing  and  unrelenting  warfare.  That  such 
could  not  have  been  the  case,  even  aside  from  these  objections,  we  are  well  assured  by 
the  fact  that  the  inland  tribes  through  whose  hands  the  metal  must  have  passed  knew 
nothing  of  iron  or  its  uses,  and  employed  flint  and  bones  for  knives,  sjoear-heads  and 
arrow-tips.  In  the  region  then  visited  by  the  English  for  the  first  time  exist  vast 
quantities  of  iron  ore,  and  in  the  mountains  of  the  mainland  copper  ledges  abound, 
and  though  no  traces  have  as  yet  been  observed  of  the  ancient  working  of  these  mines, 
it  is  more  than  probable  that  the  iron  and  copjjer  possessed  by  the  natives  of  Vancouver 
island,  who  were  the  most  civilized  and  intelligent  found  on  the  Pacific  coast,  were 
produced  from  the  crude  ore  by  their  possessors  themselves.  This  supposition  is  sup- 
ported by  the  fact  that  the  natives  forged  iron  in  an  ingenious  manner,  making  harpoons, 
weapons  and  ornaments,  thus  showing  how  well  they  understood  the  nature  of  the 
substance  and  demonstrating  their  ability  to  produce  it  fi'oni  the  native  ore.  The  com- 
paratively limited  amount  in  their  possession  indicated  that  they  only  utilized  surface 
croppings,  and  this  fully  explains  the  absence  of  any  signs  of  former  mining  opera- 
tions on  the  ledges.  When  Captain  Meares  visited  the  same  locality  a  few  years  later, 
he  was  equally  astonished  at  their  familiarity  with  these  metals.  He  tells  us  that  the 
Indians  manufactured  tools  of  the  iron  obtained  from  him  in  trading ;  and  that  it  was 
seldom  the\'  could  be  prevailed  upon  to  use  European  tools  or  utensils  in  prefei'euce  to 
their  own,  with  the  exception  of  the  saw,  the  utility  and  labor-saving  value  of  which 
they  at  once  recognized.  They  made  a  tool  for  the  j)urpose  of  hollowing  out  large 
trees,  which  answered  the  purpose  better  than  any  instrument  possessed  by  the  ship's 
carpenter.  For  an  anvil  they  employed  a  flat  stone  and  a  I'ound  one  did  duty  as  a 
sledge ;  and  with  these  implements  they  fashioned  the  red  hot  iron  at  will,  attaching 
to  the  tools  or  weapons  when  desired  a  wooden  handle,  fastened  securely  Avith  cords  of 
sinew.  What  little  brass  they  possessed  may  have  been  procured  from  the  Spanish 
vessels  which  had  visited  them  a  few  years  before.  In  this  connection  the  legend  re- 
lated to  Meares,  explaining  the  origin  of  their  knoAvledge  of  cojjper,  will  be  interesting. 
The  fact  that  there  existed  a  legend  on  the  subject  is  sufficient  evidence  of  the  length 
of  time  the  use  of  copper  had  been  familiar  to  them.  Meares  says :  "  On  expressing 
our  wish  to  be  informed  by  what  means  they  became  acquainted  with  copper,  and  why 
it  was  such  a  peculiar  object  of  their  admiration,  a  son  of  Hannapa,  one  of  the  Xoot- 
kan  chiefs,  a  youth  of  uncommon  sagacity,  informed  us  of  all  he  knew  on  the  subject, 
and  we  found,  to  our  surj^rise,  that  his  story  involved  a  little  sketch  of  their  religion. 
He  first  placed  a  certain  number  of  sticks  upon  the  ground,  at  small  distances  from 
each  other,  to  which  he  gave  separate  names.  Thus,  he  called  the  first  his  father,  the 
next  his  grandfather ;  he  then  took  what  remained  and  threw  them  all  into  confusion 
together,  as  much  as  to  say  that  they  were  the  general  heap  of  his  ancestors,  whom  he 
could    not  individually  reckon.     He  then,  pointing  to  this  bundle,  said,  when  they 


PACIFIC    COAST.  59 

lived  an  old  man  entered  the  sound  in  a  copper  canoe,  with  copper  paddles,  and  every- 
thing else  in  his  possession  of  the  same  metal ;  that  he  paddled  along  the  shore,  on 
which  all  the  people  were  assembled  to  contemplate  so  strange  a  sight,  and  that,  hav- 
ing thrown  one  of  his  copper  paddles  on  shore,  he  himself  landed.  The  extraordinary 
stranger  then  told  the  natives  that  he  came  from  the  sky,  to  which  the  boy  pointed 
with  his  hand ;  that  their  country  would  one  day  be  destroyed,  when  they  would  all 
be  killed,  and  rise  again  to  live  in  the  place  from  whence  he  came.  Our  young  inter- 
preter explained  this  circumstance  of  his  narrative  by  lying  down  as  if  he  were  dead, 
and  then,  rising  up  suddenly,  he  imitated  the  action  as  if  he  were  soaring  through  the 
air.  He  continued  to  inform  us  that  the  people  killed  the  old  man  and  took  his  canoe, 
from  which  event  they  derived  their  fondness  for  copper,  and  he  added  that  the  images 
in  their  houses  were  intended  to  represent  the  form,  and  perpetuate  the  mission,  of 
this  supernatural  person  who  came  from  the  sky." 

Cook's  vessels  lay  in  NooLka  sound  nearly  a  month,  repairing  the  casualties  of 
the  long  voyage,  laying  in  a  supply  of  wood  and  water,  and  permitting  the  seamen  to 
recruit  their  imjjaired  health.  They  were  constantly  surrounded  by  a  fleet  of  canoes, 
whose  occupants  came  from  many  miles  along  the  coast  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with 
the  strangers.  They  had  for  barter  "  skins  of  various  animals,  such  as  wolves,  foxes, 
bears,  deer,  raccoons,  polecats,  martins,  and,  in  particular,  of  the  sea-otters,  which  are 
found  at  the  islands  east  of  Kamtchatka ;"  and,  he  might  have  added,  in  great  num- 
bers about  the  Straits  of  Fuca.  "  Besides  the  skins  in  their  native  shape,  they  also 
brought  garments  made  of  the  bark  of  a  tree  or  some  plant  like  hemp  ;  weapons,  such 
as  bows  and  arrows,  and  spears  ;  fish-hooks  and  instruments  of  various  kinds  ;  wooden 
visors  of  many  monstrous  figures  ;  a  sort  of  woolen  stuff  or  blanketing ;  bags  filled 
with  red  ochre  ;  pieces  of  carved  rock  ;  beads  and  several  other  little  ornaments  of 
thin  brass  and  iron,  shaped  like  a  horseshoe,  which  they  hung  at  their  noses  ;  and  several 
chisels,  or  pieces  of  iron  fixed  to  handles.  '^'  '■'■  Their  eagerness  to  possess  iron  and 
brass,  and,  indeed,  any  kind  of  metal,  was  so  great  that  few  of  them  could  resist  the 
temptation  to  steal  it  whenever  an  opportunity  offered." 

About  the  last  of  April  Cook  sailed  out  of  Nootka  sound  and  resumed  his  explor- 
ations northward.  His  next  object  was  to  look  for  the  Rio  de  los  Reyes  of  Admiral 
Fonte,  but  a  violent  wind  drove  him  to  sea  and  prevented  him  from  viewing  the  coast 
about  the  53d  parallel.  "  For  my  own  part,"  he  says,  "  I  gave  no  credit  to  such  vague 
and  improbable  stories,  that  convey  their  own  confutation  along  with  them  ;  neverthe- 
less, I  was  very  desirous  of  keeping  the  American  coast  aboard,  in  order  to  clear  uj) 
this  point  beyond  dispute."  He  next  saw  land  near  the  55th  parallel  on  the  first  of 
May,  and  soon  after  passed  the  beautiful  mountain  called  San  Jacinto  by  Bodega,  but 
upon  which  he  bestowed  the  title  Mount  Edgecumb  ;  and  a  little  later  he  observed  and 
named  Mount  Fairweather,  on  the  mainland.  Cook  had  now  entered  the  region  ex- 
plored by  the  Russians,  with  whose  voyages  he  was  somewhat  familiar,  and  consequently 
it  was  no  surprise  to  him,  but  an  expected  gratification,  when  his  eyes  rested  upon  a 
giant,snow-raantledpeak  which  he  at  once  recognized  as  the  Mount  St.  Elias  described 
by  Behring.  This  icy  monarch  is  upwards  of  17,000  feet  in  altitude,  the  highest  and 
grandest  peak  of  the  North  American  continent 


60  PACIFIC    COAST. 

Mount  f^t.  Elias  was  seen  on  the  fourth  of  ^lay,  1778  ;  and  from  its  base  the  shore 
line  was  seen  to  trend  sharply  to  the  west ;  which  fact  induced  Cook  to  hegin  at  that 
point  his  search  for  the  Straits  of  Auian,  hoping  soon  to  find  a  passage  which  would 
lead  him  eastward  into  Hudson's  bay  or  Baffin's  bay,  or  northward  into  the  great 
North  sea  spoken  of  by  Maldonado  and  seen  by  Hearne.  Russian  maps  of  this 
region,  cojiies  of  which  he  possessed,  showed  the  whole  space  between  Kamlchatka  and 
Mount  St.  Elias  to  be  an  ocean  thickly  strewn  with  islands,  the  largest  of  which  was 
called  Aliaska,  so  that  he  had  good  authority  for  his  belief  in  a  passage  into  the  North 
sea.  He  sailed  westward,  and  then  southwestward  to  the  latitude  5Ai  degrees,  minutely 
examining  all  the  bays,  inlets  and  islands  encountered,  especially  Prince  William's 
sound  and  Cook's  inlet,  the  latter  of  which  he  probably  conceived  to  be  the  entrance 
to  a  river  since  he  named  it  Cook's  river.  Nowhere  could  he  observe  an  oj^ening 
through  the  white  chain  of  niountains,  and  he  became  satisfied  that  the  American 
continent  "  extended  much  further  to  the  west  than,  from  the  modern  most  reputable 
charts,  he  had  reason  to  expect,"  and  that  the  Russians  were  erroneous  in  their  idea 
that  the  region  west  and  northwest  of  Mount  St.  Elias  was  but  a  sea  of  islands.  The 
result  was  that  he  abandoned  the  hope  of  finding  a  passage  into  eitlier  Hudson's  or 
Baffin's  bay,  and  resolved  to  see  how  far  west  the  continent  extended  and  to  sail  into 
the  North  sea  through  the  passage  discovered  by  Behring  just  fifty  years  before.  He 
therefore  sailed  southwesterly,  and  on  the  nineteenth  of  June  fell  in  with  a  number  of 
islands  which  he  recognized  as  the  Schumagim  group,  and  where  he  saw  the  first  evi- 
dences of  the  presence  of  Russians  at  any  time  in  those  waters,  in  the  form  of  a  piece 
of  paper  in  the  possession  of  the  natives,  upon  which  was  written  something  in  a  for- 
eign language  which  he  sujoposed  to  be  Russian.  He  soon  after  passed  the  extremity 
of  the  Alaskan  peninsula  and  the  islands  which  seemed  an  extension  of  it,  and 
doubling  this  turned  again  eastward,  soon  reaching  the  large  island  of  Ounalaska, 
which  Russian  accounts  had  frequently  mentioned  as  an  important  station  in  their 
fur  trade. 

At  Ounalaska  Cook  remained  five  days,  and  on  the  second  of  July  sailed  north- 
ward along  the  coast,  searching  faithfully  for  a  passage  eastward.  On  the  ninth  of 
August  he  reached  a  point  wdiich  he  correctly  believed  to  be  the  utmost  extremity  of 
the  continent,  and  upon  it  he  bestowed  the  name  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales.  The  va- 
rious names  and  titles  of  that  worthy  prince  appear  to  have  been  as  liberally  scattered 
about  by  the  loyal  English  explorers  as  were  the  saints  of  the  Roman  calendar  by  tlie 
devout  subjects  of  Spain.  Cook  crossed  Behring's  strait  from  this  point,  finding  it 
but  fifty  miles  in  width,  and  landed  upon  the  coast  of  Asia.  He  explored  the  Asiatic 
coast  of  the  Arctic  ocean  northwestward  to  Cape  North  in  latitude  68  degrees  and  5Q 
minutes,  and  the  American  coast  northeastward  as  far  as  Icy  Cape,  in  latitude  70  de- 
grees and  29  minutes,  and  being  prevented  by  ice  from  progressing  further  returned 
to  Ounalaska,  where  he  fell  in  with  some  Russian  traders,  who  soon  convinced  him 
that  they  knew  far  less  of  the  geography  of  the  North  Pacific  than  he  did.  He  then 
proceeded  to  the  Sandwich  islands  to  spend  the  winter,  and  was  slain  in  an  unfortunate 
affray  with  the  natives  on  the  island  of  Hawaii  on  the  sixteenth   of  February,  1770. 

The  death  of  this  renowned  explorer,  though  a  sad  blow  to  the  enterprise,  did  not 
terminate  it  altogether;  yet  the  results  accomplished  thereafter  \vere  l)y  no  means  as 


I 


» 


J;' 


1* 


fm  .^lii^i.-  <- -■- '  ) 


PACIFIC    COAST.  (Jl 

great  as  they  would  have  lieeii  had  ojierations  Iteen  directetl  l)y  tlie  great  executive 
ability  and  geograpliieal  knowledge  pot^sessed  by  Cook.  Captain  Charles  Clerke  suc- 
ceeded to  the  command,  and  in  March,  1779,  sailed  from  the  Sandwich  islands,  with 
the  purpose  of  passing  into  the  Arctic  sea  and  thence,  if  possible,  into  the  Atlantic. 
He  headed  northward  and  on  the  twenty-ninth  of  April  entered  the  harbor  of  Petro- 
paulovski  in  the  Bay  of  Avatscha,  the  chief  military  station  of  Russia  in  Kamtchatka, 
where  he  was  received  with  great  courtesy  by  the  officials  of  the  czar.  Clerke  then 
sailed  into  Behring's  strait,  but  was  prevented  from  advancing  even  as  far  as  the  year 
before  by  the  vast  quantities  of  ice,  having  arrived  too  early  in  the  season.  Being  in 
ill  health  and  discouraged  by  his  want  of  success.  Captain  Clerke  returned  to  Petro- 
paulovski,  and  died  near  that  port  on  the  twenty-second  of  August.  Lieutenant  John 
Gore  succeeded  to  the  command,  but  deeming  the  vessels  in  too  battered  a  condition 
to  endure  another  season  in  that  rigorous  climate,  he  sailed  at  once  for  his  native  land 
by  the  way  of  Canton,  where  he  had  learned,  through  the  Russians,  would  be  found  a 
good  market  for  the  furs  he  had  on  board. 

The  vessels  arrived  in  Canton  early  in  December,  bearing  the  first  cargo  of  fui-s 
taken  from  America  proper  to  China,  and  with  the  excejition  of  the  cargo  taken  there 
by  Benyowsky  and  the  Polish  refugees  in  1770,  the  lirst  to  be  conveyed  into  the  Celestial 
Kingdom  by  sea.  This  was  a  very  important  circumstance,  since  it  was  one  of  the 
greatest  factors  that  led  to  the  development  of  the  American  coast  north  of  California, 
The  furs  had  been  purchased  from  the  natives  at  Nootka  sound.  Prince  William's 
sound  and  other  points  visited,  the  seamen  exchanging  for  them  the  merest  trifles  in 
their  possession.  Xo  care  was  taken  to  buy  only  valuable  kinds  since  they  were  not 
purchased  upon  si)eculation  ;  nor  was  any  thought  taken  of  their  preservation,  many 
of  them  being  ruined  as  an  article  of  merchandise  by  being  used  for  beds  and  cloth- 
ing. It  was  only  when  they  reached  Petroimulovski  and  saw  how  eager  the  Russians 
were  to  purchase  them  and  ship  them  overland  to  China  that  the  officers  realized 
how  valuable  a  cargo  they  posses.sed.  They  pursuaded  the  seamen  to  cling  to  their 
furs  until  they  arrived  in  Canton,  where  they  assured  them  much  better  prices  would 
be  realized.  The  outcome  was  that  what  was  aboard  the  two  vessels  was  sold  for  more 
than  110,000,  and  the  result  so  excited  the  cupidity  of  the  crew,  that,  though  their 
voyage  had  already  been  extended  over  a  space  of  three  years  and  a  half,  they  became 
"  possessed  with  a  rage  to  return  to  the  northern  coasts,  and,  by  another  cargo  of  skins, 
to  make  their  fortunes,  which  was,  at  one  time,  not  far  short  of  mutiny."  The  insub- 
ordinate tendencies  of  the  crew  were  repressed,  and  the  Resolution  and  Dincorenj 
sailed  homeward  from  Canton,  passed  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  arrived  in 
England  early  in  October,  1880,  having  been  absent  four  years  and  three  months, 
during  which  time  no  tidings  of  them  had  been  received  at  home,  and  having  lost 
their  gallant  commander  in  battle  and  his  able  associate  by  the  hand  of  disease. 

England  was  at  that  time  engaged  in  war  with  both  Spain  and  France,  while  the 
patriotic  struggle  of  her  American  colonies  for  independence  was  causing  her  to  put 
forth  her  utmost  energy  to  ui)hold  her  authority  in  regions  already  under  her  domin- 
ion ;  she  had  neither  time  nor  means  to  attemj)t  anything  more  in  foreign  countries 
until  her  present  troubles  were  overcome,  consequently  the  lords  of  adniiraltv  withheld 
from  publication   the  official   record  of  the  voyage  until  after   the  conclusiuii  i)f  peace, 


62  PACIFIC    COAST. 

aud  it  was  not  made  public  until  during  the  winter  of  1884-").  B}^  comparison  of 
voyages  it  will  be  seen  that  Cook  saw  no  portion  of  America  not  previously  visited  by 
the  Spaniards,  who  had  formally  taken  possession,  or  by  Russian  explorers ;  but  his 
exjjlorations  had  been  so  careful,  his  observations  so  thorough  and  his  records  so 
accurately  kept,  that  he  revolutionized  the  ideas  of  Pacific  geography. 

There  remains  yet  to  be  recorded  a  voyage  made  by  the  Spaniards  contempora- 
neously with  that  of  Cook,  though  each  was  conducted  in  ignorance  of  the  other.  The 
discoveries  of  Heceta  and  Bodega  were  considered  highly  important  by  the  authorities 
of  Spain,  and  they  ordered  another  expedition  to  be  fitted  out  to  make  a  more  thorough 
examination  of  the  coast,  which  was  not  ready  for  sea  for  three  years.  The  Pi-'mcesa 
and  Favorita,  the  former  under  the  command  of  Captain  Ignacio  Arteaga,  leader  of 
the  expedition,  and  the  latter  commanded  by  Bodega  and  Maurelle,  sailed  from  San 
Bias  February  7,  1779,  only  nine  days  prior  to  the  death  of  Cook  on  the  island  of 
Hawaii.  They  visited  only  such  places  as  had  been  seen  before  by  Heceta  and  Bodega, 
following  closely  the  course  pursued  the  previous  year  by  Captain  Cook.  Mount  St. 
Elias  having  been  reached  and  the  coast  line  being  observed  to  run  steadily  to  the  west, 
they  were  lead,  as  had  been  Cook,  to  look  carefully  for  the  Straits  of  Anian,  but,  like 
him,  were  disappointed.  Arteaga  was  not  gifted  with  the  qualities  that  make  a  suc- 
cessful pioneer,  and  becoming  discouraged  at  his  want  of  success  and  by  the  symptoms 
of  scurvy  observed  among  the  crew,  he  ordered  both  vessels  to  return  to  San  Bias, 
where  they  arrived  late  in  November.  The  observations,  records  and  charts  made 
during  this  voyage  were  very  inaccurate  and  of  but  little  value,  and  the  expedition 
was  productive  of  no  benefit  to  Sj^ain,  nor  did  it  reflect  any  glory  upon  the  nation  ; 
yet  the  ofiicers  were  rewarded  by  promotion  for  their  good  conduct.  Spain  had,  in  the 
meantime,  become  involved  in  war  with  England  and  was  neither  in  the  condition  nor 
mood  to  pursue  further  investigations  north  of  her  settlements  in  California  until 
peace  was  restored. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

BEGINNING  OF  THE  FUR  TRADE  ON  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 

Cook's  Return  to  England  Produces  great  Results — Russian  American  Trading  Company — Undertaking  of  John 
Ledyard  -Voyage  of  the  French  Explorer  LaPeroiise  The  East  India,  South  Sea.  and  King  George's  Sound 
Companies  Meares  Spends  a  Horrible  Winter  in  the  Arctic  Regions— Berkeley  Discovers  the  Straits  of  Fuca 
—  Second  Voyage  of  Captain  Meares -He  Explores  the  Straits  of  Fuca  and  Attempts  to  Enter  the  Columbia. 

The  lords  of  admiralty  could  pigeon-hole  the  log  books  of  the  Eemlutlun  and 
Dlscorery,  but  they  could  not  so  easily  seal  the  lijis  of  their  excited  crews,  whose  tales 
of  the  lands  visited,  wonderful  objects  and  strange  races  of  people  seen,  and,  above  all,  of 
the  ease  with  which  fortunes  could  be  made,  by  buying  furs  on  the  American  coast  for 
a  song  and  trading  them  in  China  for  valuable  cargoes  of  silks,  porcelain  and  tea, 
aroused  a  universal  interest  in  the  Pacific,  which  only  the  existing  state  of  hostilities  in 
Europe  and  America  was  potent  to  hold  in  check.  The  Russians,  also,  had  learned 
much  through  the  contact  of  their  traders  with  the  English  explorers,  both  on  the 
island  of  Ounalaska  and  at  the  port  of  Petropaulovski ;  and,  being  unhampered  by 
wars,  were  the  first  to  take  advantage  of  the  discoveries  of  Cook  and  i"eap  from  them 
substantial  results.  An  association  called  the  Russian  American  Trading  Company 
was  organized  in  1781,  and  in  1783  an  expedition  of  three  vessels  was  sent  to  the 
American  coast  to  examine  it  and  plant  colonies  on  the  islands  and  continent  as  far 
east  as  Prince  William's  sound.  The  exj^edition  was  absent  three  years  and  success- 
fully accomplished  its  mission.  These  settlements  and  the  power  of  the  Russian  Amer- 
ican Trading  Company  were  gradually  extended  until  through  them  Russia  obtained 
complete  control  of  the  Alaskan  coast  as  far  south  as  latitude  54  degrees  and  40 
minutes,  and  exerted  great  influence  in  the  Pacific,  even  establishing  in  later  years  a 
settlement  in  California,  which  will  be  referred  to  again  in  these  pages. 

Several  unsuccessful  efforts  were  made  to  open  up  a  trade  between  the  American 
coast  and  Cliina,  especially  by  John  Ledyard,  an  American  seaman  who  had  been  one 
of  the  crew  of  Cook's  vessel.  He  sought  both  in  America  and  France  to  interest  cajii- 
talists,  but  was  uusuccessful  in  his  efforts  to  secure  backing  in  his  enterprise.  He  then 
undertook  to  cross  Russia  and  Siberia  to  Kamtehatka,  sail  thence  to  Nootka  sound,  and 
then  traverse  the  American  continent  to  the  Atlantic.  In  furtherance  of  this  scheme 
lie  secured  a  passport  from  the  empress  of  Russia,  and  had  advanced  as  far  as  Irkutsk, 
when  he  was  arrested,  conducted  to  the  Polish  frontier  of  Ru.ssia,  and  released  with  the 
injunction  not  to  again  enter  the  em])ire.  This  action  was  probably  instigated  by  the 
Russian  American  Trailing  Coni})any,  which  did  not  relish  the  idea  of  a  foreigner  be- 
coming so  familiar  with  a  region  which  it  proposed  to  monoj)olize  foi'  its  own  benefit. 

King  Louis  XVL,  of  France,  dispatched  aii  expedition  under  the  ((iinnKiiid  of  a 
most  competent  and  scientific   n;ivig;itni'  mnneil  LaPerouse,  in   178'"),  immediately  after 


64  PACIFIC   COAST. 

the  publication  of  Cook's  journal  luul  verified  the  tales  of  his  seamen  and  infused  into 
the  commercial  world  a  spirit  of  adventnre  in  the  Pacific.  LaPerouse  was  instructed 
to  "explore  the  parts  of  the  northwest  coasts  of  America  which  had  not  been  examined 
by  Cook,  and  of  which  the  Russian  accounts  gave  no  idea,  in  order  to  obtain  intbrma- 
tion  resjjecting  the  fur  trade,  and  also  to  learn  whether,  in  those  unknown  parts,  some 
river  or  internal  sea  might  not  be  found  communicating  with  Hudson's  bay  or  Baffin's 
bay."  LaPerouse  reached  the  coast  in  the  vicinity  of  Mount  Fairweather  June  23, 
1786,  where  he  remained  at  anchor  several  weeks,  and  then  sailed  southward,  examin- 
ing the  coast  and  discovering  that  many  points  formerly  considered  portions  of  the 
mainland  were,  in  reality,  but  parts  of  islands.  Though  the  first  to  ascertain  this  fact 
he  received  no  credit  for  it,  since  his  vessels  were  wrecked  in  the  New  Hebrides  and  his 
journal  was  not  published  until  1797,  several  years  after  other  explorers  had  discovered 
and  made  known  the  same  facts. 

England's  anxiety  to  further  her  interests  in  the  Pacific  led  her  to  adopt  a  policy 
which,  so  far  as  the  American  coast  was  concerned,  had  the  eftect  of  hampering  her 
efforts  to  secure  a  foothold  on  the  coast.  Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  had  been  instrumental  in  checking  the  general  jjrogress  of  the  nation  on  the 
Atlantic  coast,  and  had  headed  off  or  rendered  futile  all  explorations  of  its  territory, 
Great  Britain  seems  not  to  have  learned  a  lesson  from  experience  and  was  ready  to 
repeat  tlie  experiment.  To  the  great  East  India  Company  she  had  granted  chartered 
rights  which  have  been  so  well  improved  that  a  vast  territory,  an  enormous  commerce, 
millions  of  subjects,  in  fact  a  new  empire,  have  been  added  to  the  British  crown,  and 
the  queen  of  England  now  subscribes  herself  empress  of  the  Indies.  To  this  com- 
pany was  granted  the  privilege  of  trading  with  the  Asiatic  coast  and  adjacent  islands 
of  the  Pacific  to  the  complete  exclusion  of  all  other  British  subjects  whatever.  To  a 
new  association  called  the  South  Sea  Company  a  like  exclusive  privilege  of  all  the 
commerce  of  the  American  coast  of  the  Pacific  was  given.  Thus  all  independent 
English  traders  were  shut  out  from  the  Pacific  entirely,  and  Great  Britain  was  com- 
pelled to  rely  upon  the.se  two  companies  for  the  advancement  of  her  interests  in  this 
quarter  of  the  globe ;  since  no  vessels  but  those  of  the  East  India  Comjjany  could 
carry  the  English  flag  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  none  but  those  of  its  rival 
could  enter  the  Pacific  by  the  way  of  Cape  Horn.  But  it  was  soon  found  that  the 
interests  of  these  two  companies  were  antagonistic  and  their  granted  j^rivileges  con- 
flicting, when  applied  to  the  practical  demands  of  trade.  The  South  Sea  Comjiany 
could  load  its  ships  with  furs  at  Nootka  and  Prince  William's  sound,  but  it  could  not 
dispose  of  them  in  China ;  on  the  other  hand  its  powerful  rival  which  controlled  the 
Chinese  market  was  debarred  from  sending  its  vessels  to  trade  for  furs  on  the  American 
coast. 

The  first  successful  voyage  was  that  of  James  Hanua,  an  Englishman,  who  sailetl 
from  Macao  in  1785,  and  jirocured  a  cargo  of  furs  at  Nootka  sound,  which  he  sold  in 
China  for  $20,000.  He  repeated  the  trip  the  following  year,  but  encountered  so  much 
opposition  from  other  traders  who  were  then  on  the  coast,  and  found  so  poor  a  market 
in  China,  which  had  been  glutted  with  furs,  that  nothing  was  realized  from  the  specu- 
lation. In  1785  the  King  George's  Sound  Company  was  organized  in]/Englaud  and 
procured  special  permits  from  the  South  Sea  Company  and  the  East  India  Company, 


PACIFIC    COAST.  65 

wliifh  enabled  it  to  trade  in  the  Pacific  waters.  The  King  George  and  Queen  Charlotte 
were  dispatched  to  the  AuiL'rican  coast  under  the  command  of  Captains  Porthjck  and 
Dixon,  and  traded  two  years  without  paying  expenses  because  of  the  competition  and 
overstocked  market.  Two  other  vessels  were  sent  by  the  company,  which  arrived  in 
1787  just  before  Portlock  and  Dixon  took  their  departure;  but  the  new  discoveries 
made  by  all  these  traders  were  confined  to  ascertaining  that  the  coast  above  the  49th 
parallel  was  fringed  by  hundreds  of  large  and  small  islands,  and  that  it  was  only  these 
islands  which  had  been  visited  by  the  earlier  exjjlorers. 

This  led  to  the  idea  that  the  whole  northwestern  continent  was  iu  fact  but  an 
immense  archipelago  of  islands,  through  which  it  would  be  possible  to  reach  the 
Atlantic.  This  was  the  opinion  formed  by  Captain  Meares  in  1789,  who  assigned  as 
one  of  his  reasons  for  holding  that  belief,  that  "  the  channels  of  this  archipelago  were 
found  to  be  wide  and  capacious,  with  near  two  hundred  fathoms  deep  of  water,  and 
huge  promontories  stretching  out  into  the  sea,  where  whales  and  sea-otters  were  seen 
in  incredible  abundance.  In  some  of  these  channels  there  are  islands  of  ice,  which 
we  may  venture  to  say  could  never  have  formed  on  the  western  side  of  America,  which 
possesses  a  mild  and  moderate  climate ;  so  that  their  existence  cannot  be  reconciled  to 
any  other  idea,  than  that  they  received  their  formation  in  the  eastern  seas,  and  have 
been  drifted  by  the  tides  and  currents  through  the  passage  for  whose  existence  we  are 
contending."  The  intelligent  mariner  seems  to  have  forgotten  the  ice  encountered  by 
Cook  in  Behring's  strait  and  the  terrible  winter  he  himself  spent  on  the  Alaskan  coast. 

Captain  Meares  was  a  lieutenant  of  the  British  navy,  off  duty  and  on  half  pay. 
In  1787  the  great  East  India  Company  fitted  out  two  vessels  to  trade  between  Nootka 
sound  and  China,  assigning  the  NootJca  to  the  command  of  Meares  and  the  Sea-  Otter 
to  Lieutenant  Walter  Tipping.  This  was  the  second  venture  of  the  company  in  this 
direction,  as  two  small  vessels  had  been  dispatched  the  year  before,  which  had  enjoyed 
a  reasonable  measure  of  success. 

The  Sea-  Otter  is  known  to  have  reached  Prince  William's  sound,  but  her  voyage 
from  that  port  is  hidden  in  mystery  while  her  ultimate  fate  is  unknown.  It  is  prob- 
able that  she  and  her  crew  went  to  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  for  if  wrecked  upon  the 
coast  and  her  crew  murdered  by  the  natives,  it  would  seem  almost  impossible  that  no 
trace  of  them  should  ever  have  been  discovered.  The  Nootka,  also,  followed  the  course 
of  the  Japan  current,  crossed  the  Aleutian  group  between  Ounamak  and  Ounalaska 
islands,  and  finally  came  to  anchor  in  Prince  William's  sound,  with  the  purpose  of 
spending  the  winter  there  and  resuming  the  voyage  in  the  spring.  During  October, 
November  and  December  their  stay  in  the  sound  was  quite  endurable,  but  the  horrors 
of  an  Arctic  winter,  with  which  English  seamen  w^ere  entirely  unfamiliar,  then  began 
to  crowd  upon  them.  Ice  hemmed  in  the  vessel,  snow  covered  it  in  drifts,  all  fowl  and 
animal  life  deserted  the  sound,  including  the  migratory  natives  who  had  been  living 
there  when  they  arrived.  The  sickly  sun  peeped  over  the  horizon's  rim  but  a  few 
moments  at  noon,  and  then  the  almost  perpetually-falling  snow  obscured  it  from  view, 
"  tremendous  mountains  forbade  almost  a  sight  of  the  sky,  and  cast  tlieir  nncturnal 
fihadows  over  the  ship  in  the  midst  of  <lay,"  scurvy,  that  horrible  scourge  of  the  sea, 
began  its  ravages  among  the  crew,  and  horrors  were  "  heaped  on  horror's  head."  From 
Jannarv  to  Mav  twentv-threc  of  the  men  died  and   the  remainder  were  rendered   unfit 


66  PACIFIC    COAST. 

to  perform  any  labor  whatever.  In  May  the  l)irds  and  animals  returned,  the  ice  dis- 
appeared, the  natives  once  more  greeted  their  stricken  visitors,  the  vessel  was  released 
from  its  icy  chains,  and  in  June  Meares  sailed  to  the  Sandwich  islands  and  from  there 
to  China,  having  achieved  but  the  honor  of  being  the  first  English  navigator  to 
spend  the  winter  on  the  Alajskan  coast.  The  East  India  Company  were  satis- 
fied with  these  two  disastrous  voyages,  but  not  so  Captain  Meares,  who  began  making 
preparations  for  another  visit  to  the  American  coast. 

The  entrance  to  the  Straits  of  Fuca  were  seen  for  the  first  time  since  they  were 
entered  by  the  old  Greek  pilot  by  Captain  Berkeley,  an  Englishman,  though  in  com- 
mand of  a  ship  belonging  to  the  Austrian  East  India  Company.  In  sailing  south 
from  the  coast  of  Vancouver  island  in  his  vessel  the  Imperial  Eagle,  Captain  Berkeley 
noticed  a  broad  opening  between  latitudes  48  and  49  degrees  and  just  north  of  Cape 
Flattery,  south  of  which  Cook,  Bodega  and  Heceta  had  made  such  careful  search  for 
the  reputed  passage.  Noting  the  discovery  upon  his  chart  but  making  no  effort  to 
explore  the  oldening,  Berkeley  continued  south  along  the  coast  and  at  the  Isla  de  los 
Dolores  lost  a  boat's  crew  at  the  hands  of  Indi'ans  almost  at  the  same  spot  where  Bo- 
dega's men  had  been  murdered ;  and  for  this  reason  he  called  the  unfortunate  place 
Destruction  island. 

The  next  voyage  of  importance  was  that  of  the  second  visit  to  our  coast  by  Cap- 
tain Meares.  In  China  the  Portuguese  were  given  special  privileges  and  exemptions, 
and  in  order  to  rea])  the  advantage  of  this  two  vessels  were  fitted  out  at  the  Portuguese 
port  of  Macao,  near  Canton,  having  nominal  captains  of  that  nation  and  receiving 
permission  from  the  governor  to  carry  the  Portuguese  flag.  Their  actual  commanders 
were  Captain  Meares  of  the  ship  Felice,  and  William  Douglas  of  the  brig  Iphigenin, 
though  those  gentlemen  appear  upon  the  papers  simjjly  in  the  capacity  of  supercar- 
goes. Nor  was  this  alone  the  object  of  the  use  of  Portugal's  flag,  since  by  so  doing 
the  act  of  Parliament  excluding  all  British  vessels  from  the  Pacific  except  those  of  the 
East  India  and  South  Sea  companies  could  be  evaded.  Greenhow  endeavors  to  prove 
that  these  two  vessels  were  actually  the  property  of  Juan  Cavallo,  the  Portuguese 
whose  name  ajipears  as  owner  in  the  ship's  papers,  and  that  the  Portuguese  captains 
were  the  bona  fide  commanders  of  the  vessels;  and  he  so  far  succeeds  in  his  effort  as 
to  raise  a  strong  presumption  that,  if  such  was  not  the  case,  these  Portuguese  were  at 
least  somethmg  more  than  mere  figureheads  in  the  enterprise.  The  plan  of  the  voy- 
age was  for  the  Felice  to  go  to  Nootka  sound  and  coast  up  and  down  from  that  harbor 
exploring  the  coast  and  trading  with  the  natives  ;  the  Iphigenia  was  to  proceed  at  once 
to  Cook's  inlet  and  trade  southward  to  Nootka,  where  one  of  the  vessels  was  to  load 
all  the  furs  and  return  to  Macao,  the  other  to  remain  there  or  at  the  Sandwich  islands 
until  spring. 

In  pursuance  of  this  plan  of  operations  the  Felice  sailed  for  Nootka  sound  in  the 
winter  of  1787-8,  and  immediately  upon  her  arrival  the  construction  of  a  small 
schooner  was  begun  by  her  crew,  to  be  used  for  trading  along  the  coast.  While  this 
work  was  progressing  Meares  made  a  short  voyage  southward ;  but  before  going  he 
secured  from  Maquinna,  the  chief,  the  privilege  of  erecting  a  house  for  the  abode  and 
protection  of  the  working  party  left  behind.  The  consideration  for  this  favor  was  a 
brace  of  pistols  and  the  free  gift  of  the  house  and  its  contents  when  he  took   his  final 


PACIFIC    COAST.  67 

departure.  Tliis  shows  conrlusivel}'  that  tlie  house  was  only  for  temporary  occupancy, 
yet  Meares,  afterwards,  in  view  of  subsecjuent  events,  hiid  claim  to  having  made  a 
permanent  settlement  in  the  name  of  the  king  of  England  ;  though  how  he  could  have 
done  so  while  acting,  even  nominally,  in  the  cajiaeity  of  supercargo  of  a  Portuguese 
vessel,  he  fails  to  explain. 

Having  built  his  house,  and  surrounded  it  wdth  a  rampart  of  earth  surmounted 
with  a  small  cannon  for  the  protection  of  its  inmates,  Meares  sailed  south,  along  the 
coast  in  search  of  the  passage  which  had  been  discovered  the  previous  year  by  Berkeley. 
On  the  twenty-ninth  of  June,  1788,  in  latitude  48  degrees  and  39  minutes,  he  observed 
a  broad  inlet,  and  in  his  narrative  lays  claim  to  its  first  discovery,  by  claiming  that 
"  the  fact  of  the  coast  along  which  we  were  now  sailing  had  not  been  seen  by  Captain 
Cook,  and  we  know  no  other  navigator,  said  to  have  been  this  way,  except  Maurelle," 
though  in  the  introduction  to  the  narrative  he  mentions  the  fact  of  Berkeley's  discovery 
the  year  before.  He  says:  "  From  the  masthead,  it  was  observed  to  stretch  to  the 
east  by  the  north,  and  a  clear  and  unbounded  horizon  was  seen  in  this  direction  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  The  strongest  curiosity  impelled  us  to  enter  this  strait,  which 
we  shall  call  by  the  name  of  its  original  discoverer,  John  de  Fuca."  Duffin,  mate  of 
the  Felice,  was  sent  up  the  strait  with  a  boat's  crew  of  thirteen  men  and  provisions  for 
a  month.  They  returned  in  a  week,  every  one  of  them  suffering  from  wounds  received 
in  a  conflict  with  the  natives.  The  boat  had  proceeded  only  ten  miles  up  the  strait, 
[Meares  claimed  thirty,  but  Duffin's  statement  places  it  at  ten],  and  had  been  attacked 
with  great  ferocity  and  bravery  by  the  savages  who  seemed  not  to  care  for  the  destruc- 
tion caused  by  the  fire  arms  nor  to  be  frightened  by  the  noise  they  made.  They  used 
their  bows  and  arrows,  clubs,  stone  bludgeons,  spears  and  slings  with  great  skill  and 
effect,  so  much  so  that  had  it  not  been  for  the  protection  afforded  by  the  awning  of  the 
boat  few  of  the  crew  would  have  escaped  with  their  lives. 

Meares  then  sailed  south  in  search  of  the  Rio  de  San  Roque  of  Heceta.  On  the 
fifth  of  July  he  observed  a  headland  wliich  he  called  Cape  Shoalwater  and  on  ap- 
proaching nearer  the  coast  the  next  day  saw  beyond  this  a  promontory  which  he  con- 
ceived to  be  one  side  of  Heceta's  inlet.  He  says:  "  After  we  had  rounded  the  prom- 
ontory-a  large  bay,  as  we  had  imagined,  op)ened  to  our  view,  that  boi'e  a  very  promising- 
appearance,  and  into  it  we  steered  with  every  encouraging  expectation.  The  high  land 
that  formed  the  boundaries  of  the  bay  was  at  a  great  distance,  and  a  fiat,  level  country 
occupied  the  intervening  space  ;  the  bay  itself  took  rather  a  westerly  direction.  As 
we  steered  in  the  water  shoaled  to  nine,  eight  and  seven  fathoms,  when  breakers  were 
seen  from  the  deck  right  ahead,  and,  from  the  masthead,  they  were  observed  to  extend 
across  the  bay  ;  we  therefore  hauled  out,  and  directed  .our  course  to  the  opposite  shore, 
to  see  if  there  was  any  channel  or  if  we  could  discover  any  point.  The  name  of  Cape 
Disappointment  was  given  to  the  promontory  (Cape  Hancock),  and  the  bay  obtained 
the  title  of  Deception  bay.  '•'  '•'  •^-  ■■'  We  can  now  with  safety  assert  that  there  is 
no  such  river  as  that  of  St.  Roc  exists,  as  laid  down  in  the  Spanish  charts.  To  those 
of  Maurelle  [  Bodega's  pilot  ]  we  made  continual  reference,  but  without  deriving  any 
information  or  assistance  from  them.  We  now  reached  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay, 
where  disappointment  continued  to  accompany  us ,  and,  being  almost  certain  that  there 
we  .should  ol)tain  no  jilace  of  shelter  for  the  ship,  we  bore  for  a  distant  headland,  kt'ep- 


68  PACIFIC    COAST. 

ing  our  course  within  two  miles  of  the  shore."  The  distant  headhuid  he  named  Cape 
Lookout,  it  being  the  one  called  Cajie  Falcon  by  the  Spaniards  and  now  known  as 
Tillamook  head. 

Having  now  "  traced  every  part  of  the  coast  which  unfavorable  weather  had  pre- 
vented Captain  Cook  from  approaching,"  Meares  returned  to  Nootka  sound,  where  he 
was  soon  joined  by  the  Iphigenia,  which  had  been  very  successful  in  its  traffic  with 
the  northern  natives.  The  little  schooner  was  then  launched,  the  first  vessel  con- 
structed on  the  Northern  Pacific  coast,  and  the  very  appropriate  title  of  Northwest 
America  was  bestowed  upon  her.  Leaving  orders  for  the  schooner  and  the  Iphiyenin 
to  winter  at  Hawaii,  Meares  sailed  in  the  Felice  for  China,  taking  with  him  all  the 
accumulated  furs. 

Before  Meares  quitted  Nootka  sound,  two  American  vessels  entered  it,  bearing  the 
happily-chosen  names  of  Columbia  and  Washington,  the  former  being  a  ship  an  dthe 
latter  a  sloop.  The  commerce  of  the  colonies  had  been  entirely  destroyed  during  the 
long  struggle  for  independence,  but  immediately  after  the  treaty  of  Ghent  the  citizens 
of  the  new  republic  began  to  make  their  presence  felt  in  every  commercial  mart.  The 
seal  and  whale  fishing  around  Cape  Horn  was  resumed,  and  as  early  as  1784  an 
American  vessel  entered  the  harbor  of  Canton,  while  in  1787  no  less  than  five  were 
engaged  in  the  trade  with  China.  Being  unencumbered  with  restrictions  such  as  Eng- 
land had  imposed  upon  all  British  vessels  except  those  of  her  chartered  monopolies, 
they  could  embark  in  the  fur  trade  with  every  prospect  of  success,  and  it  was  as  a  ven- 
ture in  this  direction  that  the  Columbia  and  Washington  were  fitted  out  in  Boston  and 
dispatched  to  the  Pacific,  with  an  ample  supply  of  such  goods  and  trinkets  as  were  the 
most  highly  prized  by  the  Indians.  John  Kendrick  was  the  commander  of  the  Col- 
umbia and  leader  of  the  expedition,  while  the  Washington  was  under  the  command  of 
Robert  Gray. 

Soon  after  entering  the  Pacific  around  Cape  Horn,  in  January,  1788,  the  two  vessels 
were  separated  by  a  severe  gale  and  were  not  again  united  until  the  following  October 
in  Nootka  sound.  The  Washington  kept  her  course  northward,  and  in  August  i-eached 
the  Oregon  coast  near  the  46th  parallel,  where  she  ran  aground  while  attempting  to 
enter  an  opening  in  the  land  which  was  pi'obably  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  After 
repelling  an  attack  of  the  natives,  during  which  the  mate  was  wounded  and  one  of  the 
men  killed,  the  Washington  succeeded  in  again  floating  into  deep  water.  She  then 
went  directly  to  Nootka  sound,  where  were  found  the  Felice,  Iphigenia  and  Northwest 
America,  her  appearance  there  being  an  unexpected  surprise  to  Captain  Meares  and 
his  associates.  A  few  days  later  the  Columbia  also  entered  the  sound  to  join  her  con- 
sort, having  been  compelled  after  the  storm  near  Cape  Horn  to  enter  the  harbor  of 
the  Island  of  Juan  Fernandez  for  repairs,  where  Captain  Kendrick  had  been  most 
courteously  treated  by  the  commandant  of  the  Spanish  forces  stationed  there.  Meares 
soon  sailed  to  China  in  the  Felice,  and  the  Iphigenia  and  Northwest  America  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Sandwich  islands  to  spend  the  winter,  the  two  American  vessels  lying  at 
anchor  in  Nootka  sound  until  the  following  spring. 


.5^^^r 


k 

^*^        Vis.*. 

'v/ 

^^/i 

*^ 

,feaiP»- 

^i^^*^ 


CHAPTER  X. 

CONFLICT  OF   AUTHORITY    AT    NOOTKA    SOUND. 

Anxiety  of  Spain  lest  her  Claims  in  the  Pacific  be  Overthrown  -Voyag-e  of  Martinez  and  Haro— Alarming  En- 
croachments of  the  Russians-  Spain  Dispatches  Martinez  and  Haro  to  Kootka  Sound  to  Take  Possession 
—New  Venture  of  Captain  Meares  High  Handed  Conduct  of  Martinez  at  Nootka  Captains  Colnett  and 
Hodson  Sent  to  San  Bias  as  Prisoners  Gray  Explores  the  Straits  of  Fuca- Release  of  Colnett  Diplo- 
matic Controversy  Between  England  and  Spain. 

The  uneasiness  felt  by  England  in  1770  when  reports  reached  the  kingdom  that 
Spain  was  diligently  exploring  and  colonizing  the  Pacific  coast  of  America,  was  now 
experienced  in  even  a  greater  degree  by  Spain  herself,  who  saw  vessels  of  foreign 
nations,  and  especially  tho.se  of  her  dreaded  rival,  entering  the  Pacific  from  both  the 
east  and  the  west.  She  had  not  receded  in  the  least  degree  from  the  extreme  position 
taken  by  her  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  not  only  claimed  dominion  over  all  the 
Pacific  coast  of  America,  but  a  complete  monopoly  of  its  trade  to  the  exclusion  of  the 
vessels  of  all  other  nations  whatever. 

In  pursuance  of  this  policy  Don  Bias  Gonzales,  the  commandant  at  Juan  Fer- 
nandez, was  recalled  and  cashiered  by  the  cajstain  general  of  Chili  for  his  hospitable 
treatment  of  Captain  Kendriek,  and  this  action  was  endorsed  by  the  viceroy  of  Peru. 
The  delinquent  officer  was  informed  that  he  should  have  enforced  the  royal  ordinance 
of  1692,  which  decreed  that  all  foreign  vessels  of  any  nation,  no  matter  on  how  friendly 
terms  they  might  be  with  Spain,  should  be  seized  whenever  found  in  Pacific  waters, 
unless  they  could  exhibit  a  license  from  the  Spanish  court.  The  authorities  in  all  ports 
were  then  specially  instructed  to  seize  all  foreign  vessels,  since  no  nation  had  a  right 
to  any  territory  in  America  which  made  a  passage  of  Cape  Horn  necessary  in 
order  to  reach  it ;  and  the  Spanish  viceroy  even  went  so  far  as  to  dispatch  a  cruiser 
from  Callao  in  search  of  the  Coluntbia,  with  instructions  to  capture  her  if  possible. 

The  Spanish  authorities  now  realized  that  something  must  be  done  to  establish 
settlements  north  of  California,  their  utmost  limit  at  that  time  being  the  mission  at 
San  Francisco.  Beyond  that,  though  claiming  exclusive  authority  and  dominion,  they 
actually  knew  less  of  the  geography  of  the  coast  than  either  the  English  or  Russians. 
An  ex[)edition  was  accordingly  fitted  out  in  Mexico  in  1788,  to  be  sent  on  a  voyage  of 
iiKjuiry,  for  the  doul)le  purpose  of  learning  the  extent  of  Russian  settlements  in  the 
north,  and  selecting  suitable  locations  for  a  number  of  proposed  Spanish  colonies. 
The  fieet  consisted  of  the  Princesa,  commanded  by  Estivan  Martinez,  former  pilot  of 
Juan  Perez,  and  the  Snn  Carlos  under  command  of  Lieutenant  Gonzalo  Haro. 

The  two  consorts  .sailed  from  San  Bias  March  8,  1788,  and  reached  Prince  Wil- 
liam's sound  on  the  twenty-fifth  of  May,  where  they  lay  nearly  a  month  without 
making  any   attempt   at    exploration.      There   was  a   marked   and   radical    dilTerence 


70  PACIFIC    COAST. 

between  the  English  and  Spanish  methods  of  conchicting  operations  of  this  chai-acter  ; 
for  Avhile  the  latter  seemed,  either  from  lack  of  energy  or  want  of  the  true  spirit  of 
the  explorer,  to  be  satisfied  with  an  occasional  visit  to  the  coast  here  and  there,  making 
a  few  almost  valueless  notes  of  what  they  saw,  the  English,  on  the  contrary,  seemed 
imbued  with  enthusiasm,  exploring  the  shore  carefully,  taking  continual  observations, 
noting  every  peculiarity,  and  keeping  a  record  of  much  geographical  and  scientific 
value.  One  of  these  careful  English  voyages  was  worth  to  the  world  a  dozen  such 
skimmings  as  the  Spaniards  indulged  in. 

About  the  end  of  June  Haro  sailed  southwest  with  the  San  Carlos  and  fell  in 
with  the  Island  of  Kodiak,  upon  which  was  a  Eussian  trading  post.  From  the  offi- 
cial in  charge,  a  Greek  named  Delaref,  he  received  minute  information  as  to  the 
character,  number  and  location  of  all  Russian  establishments  in  America.  He 
returned  to  Prince  William's  sound  to  join  Martinez,  who  had  been  amusing  himself 
meanwhile  by  making  a  few  cursory  explorations,  and  the  two  then  sailed  for  Oun- 
alaska,  where  they  remained  nearly  a  month  enjoying  the  hospitality  of  the  Russian 
traders.  With  the  first  signs  of  coming  winter  they  bade  adieu  to  Alaska  and  returned 
to  San  Bias  to  report  to  the  viceroy. 

According  to  the  statement  given  by  them  and  forwarded  to  Madrid,  there  were 
eight  Russian  settlements  on  the  coast,  all  situated  west  of  Prince  William's  sound, 
while  one  was  then  being  established  in  that  locality  ;  and  these  were  occupied  by  252 
subjects  of  the  empress,  chiefly  natives  of  Siberia  and  Kamtchatka.  It  was  also 
rejiorted  that  information  had  been  received  of  two  vessels  which  had  been  dispatched 
to  Nootka  sound  to  effect  a  settlement,  and  of  two  others  then  being  constructed  at 
Ochotsk  for  a  similar  purpose.  The  court  of  Spain  was  much  agitated  by  this  infor- 
mation. It  revealed  a  state  of  affairs  highly  prejudicial  to  the  interests  of  Spain  on 
our  coast.  Already  Russia  had  made  settlements  such  as  gave  her  title  to  the  Alaskan 
regions  and  was  developing  alarming  symptoms  of  a  purpose  to  establish  herself  still 
further  to  the  southward.  Though  the  presence  of  English  and  American  traders 
on  the  coast  was  annoying  in  the  extreme,  the  conduct  of  Russia  was  positively  alarm- 
ing, and  Spain  realized  that  nothing  but  heroic  remedies  instantly  applied  would  be 
at  all  effective  to  ward  off  the  impending  danger. 

A  communication  was  at  once  forwai'ded  to  the  empress  of  Russia,  remonstrating 
against  the  encroachments  of  her  subjects  upon  the  dominions  of  Spain,  to  which  was 
replied  that  Russian  subjects  in  America  were  acting  under  instructions  not  to 
invade  the  territory  of  other  nations ;  but  as  neither  the  remonstrance  nor  the  reply 
defined  the  limit  claimed  for  their  respective  dominions,  nothing  definite  was  settled 
by  the  correspondence  between  the  two  powers.  While  this  piece  of  diplomacy  was 
being  indulged  in  by  the  home  government,  the  viceroy  in  Mexico  was  applying  the 
heroic  remedy.  Early  in  1789  he  dispatched  Martinez  and  Haro  in  their  two  vessels 
to  take  possession  of  Nootka  sound,  instructing  them  to  treat  all  foreigners  with  cour- 
tesy, but  to  maintain  the  authority  of  Spain  and  her  right  of  dominion  at  all  hazards. 
Meanwhile  other  vessels  were  headed  for  Nootka  sound.  The  IpJugenia  and 
JVorthwest  America,  having  spent  the  winter  at  Hawaii,  and  still  sailing  under  the 
Portuguese  flag  and  license,  reaching  the  port  in  April  in  a  most  deplorable  condition, 
so  much  so  that  they  had  to   procure  supplies  and  means  for  continuing  their  trade 


PACIFIC   COAST.  71 

■with  the  natives  from  the  two  American  vessels  still  lying  there.  ^leares  had  upon 
his  return  to  China  formed  a  trading-  arrangement  with  the  representatives  of  the  King 
George's  Sound  Company,  and  in  the  spring  dispatched  the  Argonaut  and  Princess 
Royal  to  Nootka,  remaining  himself  in  China  to  conduct  the  company's  affairs  there 
in  person.  Since  these  vessels  were  provided  with  licences  from  both  the  East  India 
and  the  South  Sea  companies,  the  Portuguese  flag  was  dispensed  with,  and  they  sailed 
under  the  British  colors. 

On  the  sixth  of  May,  178U,  the  Princexa  anchored  at  Xootka,  finding  there  the 
CoUmibia  and  Iphigenia,  the  other  two  being  absent  on  a  trading  voyage  along  the 
coast.  Martinez  at  once  notified  Captains  Douglas  and  Kendrick  of  his  intention  to 
take  possession  in  the  name  of  the  king  of  Spain,  examined  their  papers,  and  then 
landed  and  began  the  erection  of  a  fort  in  a  commanding  position  on  a  small  island 
in  the  bay.  No  objection  was  made  to  these  proceedings  and  the  utmost  cordial  rela- 
tions existed  for  sometime  between  the  representatives  of  the  three  great  nations. 
Douglas  still  pi-eserved  the  Portuguese  character  of  the  Iphigenia,  displayed  that  flag 
at  her  masthead,  and  even  paid  Martinez  for  supplies  furnished  by  him  in  bills  drawn 
upon  Juan  Cavallo,  the  reputed  Portuguese  owner  of  the  vessel,  ignorant  of  the  fact 
that  the  Macao  merchant  had  become  bankrupt  and  that  Meares  had  transferred  the 
whole  expedition  into  English  hands  and  discarded  the  Portuguese  feature. 

A  week  later,  on  the  fourteenth  of  May,  Captain  Haro  arrived  in  the  San  Carlos, 
and  the  next  day  Captain  Viana  and  Supercargo  Douglas  were  invited  by  Martinez  to 
visit  his  ship.  When  the  guests  entered  the  cabin  of  the  Princesa  they  were  told  to 
consider  themselves  prisoners,  while  at  the  same  time  the  brig  was  taken  possession  of 
by  the  Spaniards.  On  the  twenty-sixth  of  May  the  Iphigenia  was  released  upon  the 
signing  by  her  officers  of  a  paper  certifying  that  they  had  been  kindly  treated  and  not 
interfered  with  by  the  Spaniards.  The  Iphigenia  then  sailed  up  the  coast,  procured  a 
valuable  cargo  of  furs,  and  returned  to  China,  where  Douglas  severed  his  connection 
with  the  vessel.  From  this  circumstance  and  the  fact  that  she  continued  to  sail  under 
the  Portuguese  flag  it  would  seem  evident  that  she  was  in  reality  a  genuine  Portuguese 
vessel,  and  had  not  been  included  by  Meares  in  his  new  arrangement  with  the  King 
( George's  Sound  Company.  This  being  the  case  it  is  evident  that  upon  her  actions,  or 
those  of  her  two  consorts  the  previous  year,  no  claim  could  be  founded  by  England, 
yet  such  was  done  and  persistently  adhered  to,  on  the  ground  that  the  vessels  were 
actually  British  though  nominally  Portuguese  in  their  character. 

On  the  eighth  of  June,  subsequent  to  the  release  and  departure  of  the  Ijjhii/cnia. 
the  little  Xorthirest  America  sailed  into  port,  carrying  the  Portuguese  flag,  and  was  im- 
mediately seized  by  the  Spanish  commandant.  A  few  days  later  the  Princess  Royal 
arrived  from  Macao,  with  the  British  ensign  displayed  at  her  masthead.  When 
Martinez  learned  from  Captain  Hodson  that  Cavallo  luid  failed,  he  declared  that  he 
would  hokl  the  little  schooner  for  what  was  due  him  on  the  bills  drawn  by  Douglas, 
and  releasing  the  crew  from  custody  and  permitting  them  to  place  the  greater  (juantity 
of  their  furs  on  board  the  Princess  ^o/ya/,  he  dispatched  the  schooner  on  a  trading- 
voyage  under  the  command  of  one  the  mates  of  the  Columbia. 

The  Priwrxx  Royal  sailed  from  No!)tka  on  the  second  of  July,  and  the  same  dav 
the  J /y/ry//c////, commanded  by  Captain  Colnett,  entered,  though  not  till  the  captain  was  as- 


72  PACIFIC   COAST. 

sured  by  Martinez  that  it  was  i^erfectlv  safe  for  him  to  do  so,  his  timidity  being  caused 
by  information  imjmrted  to  him  of  the  conduct  of  Martinez  in  relation  to  the  Ip/iiffenia 
and  Northioest  America.  Having  entered  the  bay  and  anchored  between  the  Prinn-m  and 
San  Carlos,  Captain  Cohiett  arrayed  himself  in  full  uniform  and  boarded  the  Princesa  in 
accejjtance  of  an  invitation  from  Martinez  to  pay  him  a  visit  and  exhibit  his  papers. 
He  descended  into  the  cabin  and  a  most  stormy  interview  ensued  between  him  and  the 
Spanish  commandant.  Colnett  informed  Martinez  that  it  was  his  jsurpose  and  inten- 
tion to  occupy  Nootka  sound  in  the  name  of  King  George  of  England,  and  to  erect 
suitable  fortifications  for  its  defense ;  and  was  in  turn  notified  that  such  action  on  his 
part  would  not  be  tolerated,  since  Spain  had  already  taken  possession.  The  English 
captain  became  angry  and  asserted  his  intention  to  carry  out  his  purpose  in  the  face  of 
all  opposition,  whereupon  Martinez  sent  for  a  file  of  marines  and  made  him  a  prisoner; 
at  the  same  time  a  detachment  boarded  the  Argonaut  and  took  possession  of  her  in  the 
name  of  the  king  of  Spain,  making  prisoners  of  the  entire  crew.  A  few  days  later  the 
Princess  Royal  appeared  at  the  entrance  to  the  sound,  and  was  instantly  boarded  by 
the  Spaniards  and  brought  into  port  as  a  prize.  On  the  thirteenth  of  July  Colnett, 
with  all  his  officers  and  the  greater  portion  of  the  cajjtured  crews,  was  placed  on  board 
the  Argonaut  and  sent  as  a  prisoner  to  San  Bias.  The  other  ship  was  supplied  with  a 
complement  of  officers  and  men  from  the  Spanish  vessels,  and  was  employed  for  two 
years  in  the  service  of  Spain.  The  officers  and  crew  of  the  Northioest  America, 
together  with  some  of  the  seamen  on  board  the  other  vessels,  were  sent  to  China  in  the 
Columhia,  the  American  captain  receiving  a  portion  of  the  furs  captured  with  the 
Princess  Royal  in  payment  of  their  passage. 

During  all  these  troubles  the  two  American  vessels  were  unmolested,  their  com- 
manders mediating  frequently  between  the  contending  parties,  though  generally  to 
little  purpose.  The  Columbia  remained  continuously  at  Nootka,  while  her  smaller 
consort  traded  and  explored  up  and  down  the  coast  and  collected  a  valuable  cargo  of 
furs.  Captain  Gray  sailed  in  the  Washington  through  the  straits  between  Queen  Char- 
lotte island  and  the  main  land,  and  called  the  former  Washington  island,  though  the 
name  seems  to  have  lacked  adhesive  properties.  He  also  sailed  up  the  Straits  of  Fuca 
a  distance  of  fifty  miles,  the  Washington  being  the  first  vessel  to  actually  enter  and  ex- 
plore that  great  outlet  of  Puget  sound.  Early  in  the  fall  Captains  Kendrick  and 
Gray  exchanged  vessels,  the  latter  sailing  in  the  Columbia  for  China  with  a  large  cargo 
of  furs  and  the  passengers  sent  by  Martinez,  while  Kendrick  remained  on  the  coast 
with  the  Washington  to  prosecute  the  business  of  collecting  peltry  from  the  natives. 
In  September  Martinez  and  Haro  took  their  departure  in  obedience  to  instructions  re- 
ceived from  the  viceroy,  and  Nootka  was  left  without  a  claimant. 

The  Argonaut  with  its  load  of  English  prisoners  reached  San  Bias  on  the  sixteenth 
of  August.  The  commandant  at  that  port,  who  was  Bodega  y  Quadra,  the  explorer, 
treated  Captain  Colnett  with  great  courtes}^  and  soon  afterwards  sent  him  to  Mexico, 
where  the  merits  of  his  case  were  inquired  into  officially  by  the  viceroy.  It  was  finally 
decided  that  Martinez,  though  simply  carrying  out  the  letter  of  his  instructions,  had 
acted  somewhat  injudiciously,  and  that  the  prisoners  should  be  released^'and  the  cap- 
tured vessels  restored.  Consequently  Captain  Colnett  sailed  in  the  Argonaut  for 
Nootka  sound  in  the  spring  of  1790,  and   failing  to  find  the  Princess  Royal  set  out  in 


i 


•%)> 


PACIFIC   COAST.  73 

search  of  her,  and  did  not  succeed  in  obtaining  possession  until  a  j^ear  hiter  at  the 
Sandwich  islands. 

The  release  of  Colnett  and  the  restoration  of  his  damaged  vessels  was  by  no 
means  the  end  of  the  Nootka  affair.  England  and  Spain  engaged  in  a  diplomatic 
controversy  in  regard  to  it,  which  seriously  threatened  to  involve  Europe  in  a  general 
war,  and  that  dreadful  result  was  only  avoided  by  the  mutual  dislike  of  both  nations 
to  precipitate  such  a  bloody  conflict.  France,  Spain  and  England  had  not  yet  recov- 
ered from  their  recent  struggle,  and  none  of  them  were  anxious  to  renew  the  contest. 

The  Columbia  arrived  in  China  with  intelligence  of  the  Nootka  seizures  late  in 
the  fall  of  1789,  and  Meares,  arming  himself  with  statements  and  depositions  in  regard 
to  the  affair,  hastened  to  England,  to  seek  redress  for  his  wrongs  and  losses.  He 
arrived  in  April  and  found  negotiations  already  in  progress.  Spain  had  undertaken 
to  assert  at  home  the  same  ideas  of  universal  supremacy  in  the  Pacific  that  had  been 
the  sole  cause  of  trouble  at  Nootka,  and  had  sent  a  communication  to  the  king  of  Eng- 
land on  the  tenth  of  February,  notifying  him  that  certain  of  his  subjects  had  been 
infringing  upon  her  exclusive  rights  on  the  American  coast,  that  in  consequence  the 
ship  Argonaut  had  been  seized  as  a  prize  and  her  crew  imprisoned,  and  strongly  pro- 
testing against  his  majesty  permitting  any  of  his  subjects  to  either  make  settlements  or 
engage  in  fishing  or  trade  on  the  American  coast  of  the  Pacific,  and  demanding  pun- 
ishment of  all  such  offenders.  England's  reply  to  this  liaughty  demand  was  charac- 
teristic of  that  nation,  which  has  always  kept  a  protecting  arm  around  its  citizens  in 
every  quarter  of  the  globe.  It  was  brief  and  to  the  point,  notifying  the  court  of 
Madrid  that  since  it  was  evident  from  the  Spanish  protest  that  English  subjects  had 
been  imprisoned  and  their  property  confiscated,  proper  satisfaction  for  the  insult  and 
reparation  of  the  injury  must  be  made  before  the  merits  of  the  controversy  would  be 
inquired  into.  The  tone  of  the  reply  was  so  belligerent  that  Spain  at  once  began  to 
prepare  for  war,  but  to  avoid  this  if  possible  concluded  to  modify  her  demands,  and 
notified  England  that  if  his  majesty  would  in  future  keep  his  subjects  out  of  the  Span- 
ish dominions,  she  would  let  the  matter  drop  where  it  was. 

Soon  after  this  Meares  arrived  in  England  with  his  version  of  the  affair,  which 
placed  it  in  entirely  a  new  light.  Two  large  fleets  were  ordered  to  be  fitted  for  war, 
and  a  statement  of  the  affair  together  with  the  correspondence  with  Spain  was  submit- 
ted to  parliament,  which  voted  ample  supplies  and  endorsed  the  most  vigorous  meas- 
ures for  upholding  the  rights  and  maintaining  the  honor  of  England.  A  demand  was 
made  upon  Spain  for  satisfaction.  Much  controversy  followed — messages  flying  back- 
wards and  forwards  for  three  months,  during  which  Europe  was  kept  in  a  high  state 
of  excitement.  England  made  full  preparations  for  a  descent  upon  the  Spanish  set- 
tlements in  America,  and  assembled  the  greatest  armament  the  nation  had  ever  put 
forth.  She  formed  an  alliance  with  Sweden  and  the  Netherlands  in  anticipation  of 
the  union  of  Spain  and  France  against  her,  since  it  was  a  well-known  fact  that  a  fam- 
ily compact  for  mutual  aid  existed  between  the  members  of  the  Bourbon  familj-  occu- 
jtying  the  thrones  of  those  two  kingdoms.  The  king  of  Spain  formally  called  upon 
Louis  XVI.  of  France,  for  the  promised  aid,  but  the  nation  was  even  then  tottering  on 
the  l)rink  of  that  horrible  abyss  of  revolution  into  which  it  soon  plunged,  and  the 
doomed   monarch  was  powerless.     The   national  assemldy  investigated  the  treat\%  sug- 


7i  PACIFIC   COAST. 

gested  that  a  new  and  more  definite  one  be  made,  and  ordered  an  increase  of  the  navy, 
but  offered  Spain  no  encouragement  that  assistance  would  be  given  her.  Englaiid's 
northern  allies  were  in  no  condition  to  render  her  material  aid,  her  exchequer  was 
exhausted  by  her  great  preparations  for  war,  serious  trouble  was  brewing  in  the  East 
Indies,  and  the  threatening  aspect  of  affairs  in  France  warned  her  that  to  form  a  pro- 
tective alliance  with  Spain  would  be  far  wiser  than  to  go  to  war.  All  these  consider- 
ations caused  Great  Britain  to  recede  from  her  bellicose  position  and  secretly  seek  the 
mediation  of  France.  After  much  negotiation  the  treaty  of  Nootka  was  signed 
October  28,  1790,  and  the  threatened  war  was  averted. 

The  treaty  stipulated  that  all  buildings  and  tracts  of  land  on  the  northwest  coast 
of  America  of  which  Spanish  officers  had  dispossessed  any  British  subjects  should  be 
restored  ;  that  just  reparation  should  be  made  by  both  j^arties  to  the  agreement  for  any 
acts  of  violence  committed  by  the  subjects  of  either  of  them  upon  the  subjects  of  the 
other ;  that  any  property  seized  should  be  restored  or  compensated  for ;  that  subjects  of 
Great  Britain  should  not  approach  within  ten  leagues  of  any  part  of  the  coast  already 
occupied  by  Spain  ;  that  north  of  that  point  both  parties  should  have  equal  rights,  at; 
well  as  south  of  the  limits  of  Spanish  settlements  in  South  America.  These  were  the 
general  features  of  the  convention  between  the  two  nations,  and  were  very  distasteful 
to  a  large  party  in  parliament,  who  opposed  the  treaty  on  the  ground  that  England 
gained  nothing  and  lost  much ;  that  formerly  British  subjects  claimed  and  fully  exer- 
cised the  right  of  settlement  and  trade  in  the  Pacific,  whereas  England  had  now 
restricted  herself  to  limits  and  conditions  exceedingly  detrimental  to  her  commerce  and 
general  interests.  The  treaty,  however,  was  sustained  by  the  administration  majority 
in  Parliament. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

DISCOVERY  OF  PUGET  SOUND  AND  THE  COLUMBIA. 

Ene;land  Sends  Vancouver  to  the  Pacific  -Kendrick  Sails  Around  Vancouver  Island  in  the  "Washington"  - 
Spain  Again  Takes  Possession  of  Nootka  and  Explores  the  Coast  -Lieutenant  Quimper  Explores  the 
Entrance  to  Puget  Sound-  Malaspina  Searches  for  the  Straits  of  Anian  Second  Voyage  of  the  "Colum- 
bia" Gray  Builds  the  "Adventure"  at  Cloyoquot  Spain  Investigates  the  Desirability  of  Holding  Nootka  - 
Arrival  of  Vancouver  His  Opinion  that  no  such  Stream  as  the  Columbia  Could  Exist  Captain  Gray  Enters 
the  Columbia  Vancouver  Explores  and  Names  Puget  Sound— Negotiations  at  Nootka  Broughton  Explores 
the  Columbia— Vancouver .  in  1793  and  1794-  Northwest  Company  Organized  Mackenzie's  Journey  to  the 
Pacific. 

Commissioners  were  ap])ointed  by  England  and  Spain  to  proceed  to  Xootka  and 
execute  that  portion  of  the  treaty  referring  to  the  restoration  of  property.  Captain 
Geoi-ge  Vancouver  was  selected  by  Great  Britain  for  that  service,  and  given  instruc- 
tions to  explore  the  coast  thoroughly,  and  especially  to  "  examine  the  supposed  Strait 
of  Juan  de  Fuca,  said  to  be  situated  between  the  48th  and  49th  degrees  of  north  lati- 
tude, and  to  lead  to   an   opening  through  wliich  the   sldop    Wdxh'nujtmi   is  rejiorted   to 


PACIFIC    COAST.  75 

have  passed  in  1789,  and  to  have  come  out  again  to  tlie  nortliwai-d  of  Xootka."  In 
]\Iarcli,  1791,  Vanconver  sailed  in  the  slooj)  of  war  Discovery  accompanied  by  Lieu- 
tenant W.  R.  Broughton  in  the  armed  tender  Chatham,  both  vessels  being  armed  for 
war  and  equipped  for  a  long  voyage,  and  did  not  reach  Nootka  until  a  year  later. 

In  the  fall  of  1789,  subsequent  to  the  departure  of  Gray  in  the  Columbia,  Captain 
Kendriek  passed  with  the  Washington,  entirely  through  the  Straits  of  Fuca  and  between 
Vancouver  island  and  the  mainland  of  British  Columbia,  the  American  flag  being  thus 
the  first  to  wave  over  the  waters  of  that  great  inland  sea.  It  was  this  passage  of  the 
Waah  inxjton  which  is  referred  to  in  the  extract  given  above  of  the  instructions  of  the 
lords  of  admiralty  to  Captain  Vancouver. 

In  the  spring  of  1790  the  Mexican  viceroy  dispatched  a  fleet  to  again  take  pos- 
session of  Nootka,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Francisco  Elisa,  the  fiery  Martinez 
having  been  removed.  Nootka  was,  therefore,  in  full  jjossession  of  the  Spaniards  dur- 
ing the  time  England  and  Spain  were  conducting  their  negotiations.  Upon  resuming 
possession  of  Nootka,  Spain  began  a  series  of  short  voyages  of  exploration,  more  j^ar- 
ticularly  to  ascertain  what  settlements  were  being  made  by  the  Russians  or  other 
foreigners  than  to  accomplish  anything  of  geographical  value.  The  most  important  of 
these  was  that  of  Lieutenant  Quimper,  who  sailed  from  Nootka  in  the  summer  of  1790, 
in  the  Princess  Royal,  which  had  not  yet  been  restored  to  Captain  Colnett,  and  entered 
the  Straits  of  Fuca  a  distance  of  100  miles,  carefully  examining  both  shores  of  the 
passage.  He  penetrated  into  the  entrance  of  Puget  sound,  but  was  prevented  by 
lack  of  time  from  exploring  the  numerous  arms  which  he  observed  branching  oft'  in 
all  directions,  many  of  them  evidently  extending  inland  to  a  great  distance.  Upon 
some  of  these  he  bestowed  names,  none  of  which  are  now  used  except  Canal  de 
Guemes  and  Canal  de  Haro. 

The  next  most  important  was  that  of  Captains  Malaspina  and  Bustamente  in  the 
Descubierta  and  Atrevida.  During  the  controversy  over  the  Nootka  seizures,  the 
romance  of  Maldonado  about  the  Straits  of  Anian  was  rescued  from  the  obscurity  into 
which  it  had  long  since  passed,  and  received  the  endorsement  of  many  able  persons. 
In  consequence  of  this  the  expedition  was  fitted  out  by  Spain  to  ascertain  the  truth  of 
the  narrative,  and  was  dispatched  to  the  coast  in  the  summer  of  1791  Malaspina 
carefully  explored  the  shore  line  in  the  region  of  the  60th  parallel,  where  Maldonado 
located  the  passage,  and  became  convinced  that  there  could  be  no  strait  leading  through 
the  chain  of  mountains  which  bordered  the  const.  He  then  ]iroceeded  to  Nootka, 
Avhere  he  arrived  in  August. 

During  this  time  the  coast  was  visited  by  one  French,  nine  English  and  >iQ\Qn 
American  trading  vessels.  As  their  objects  were  purely  commercial,  little  was  accom- 
2)lished  l)y  any  of  them  in  the  line  of  new  discoveries  of  importance,  though  each 
added  a  little  to  the  fast-growing  knowledge  of  the  coast.  There  was  one,  however, 
an  American  vessel,  Avhich  made  the  greatest  discovery  on  the  coast,  and  added  to  the 
territories  of  the  United  States  the  vast  region  which,  sneered  at  and  reviled  for  years, 
now  has  unstinted  praise  showered  upon  it  from  the  four  corners  of  the  globe,  and 
like  the  stone  the  builders  rejected  at  the  temple  of  the  magnificent  Solomon,  seems 
about  to  be  made  the  corner  stone  and  crowning  glory  of  the  Union.  This  vessel  was 
the    Columbia,  commanded   by  Captain   Robi-rt  Gray.     Passing   over   the   V(\vages  of 


76  PACIFIC    COAST. 

other  traders  and  all  immaterial  details,  we  proceed  directly  to  the  valuable  discoveries 
made  by  Gray. 

The  Columbia  sailed  from  Boston  on  her  second  visit  to  the  Pacific  on  the  twenty- 
eighth  of  Sejitember,  1790,  reached  the  coast  in  June,  and  traded  and  explored  among 
the  islands  and  inlets  about  Queen  Charlotte's  island  until  September.  She  then  sailed 
down  thecoast  to  Cloyoquot,  north  of  the  entrance  to  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  where  a  landing 
Avas  etfected  and  the  winter  passed  in  a  fortified  structure  which  was  called  Fort  Defi- 
ance. During  the  winter  Gray  constructed  at  Cloyoquot  a  small  vessel  which  he  named 
the  Adventure,  to  be  used  in  collecting  furs  from  the  natives.  This  was  the  second 
vessel  built  on  the  Northern  Pacific  coast,  the  first  being  the  Xorthu-est  America,  con- 
structed by  ]Meares  at  Nootka  in  1788.  In  the  spring  the  Adventure  was  dispatched 
on  a  trading  expedition  to  the  north,  while  Gray  sailed  southward  along  the  coast  on 
a  voyage  of  exploration. 

Early  in  the  spring  of  1792  the  viceroy  of  Mexico' took  energetic  steps  to  deter- 
mine the  question  of  whether  the  settlement  at  Nootka  was  worth  contending  for,  in 
view  of  the  expected  arrival  of  Captain  Vancouver.  If  there  was  a  navigable  north- 
west passage  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  then  a  station  at  that  point  would  be 
invaluable  to  the  interests  of  Spain,  but  if  the  continent  was  continuous,  so  that  all 
vessels  would  be  compelled  to  enter  the  Pacific  from  the  south,  an  establishment  in  so 
high  an  altitude  would  not  be  of  sufficient  importance  to  make  a  contest  for  its  posses- 
sion advisable.  To  ascertain  these  facts  a  vessel  was  dispatched  to  search  for  the  Eio 
de  los  Reyes  in  the  latitude  of  53  degrees,  two  others  were  to  explore  and  ascertain  the 
exact  nature  of  tlie  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  while  a  fourth  was  instructed  to  seek  along 
the  coast  of  the  mainland  further  to  the  southward  for  a  suitable  location  to  which  to 
remove  in  case  the  settlement  at  Nootka  should  be  abandoned.  At  the  same  time 
Cajjtain  Bodega  y  Quadra  proceeded  to  Nootka  as  commissioner  to  meet  Captain  Van- 
couver and  fulfill  the  terms  of  the  treaty,  with  instructions  to  abandon  Nootka  if  he 
deemed  it  necessary  and  remove  all  Spanish  subjects  to  the  new  location  further  south. 

In  April  the  Discovery  and  Chatham  arrived  off"  the  coast  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape 
Mendocino,  and  sailed  slowly  northward,  careful  observations  being  taken  and  a  strict 
examination  being  made  of  the  shore  for  the  discovery  of  harbors  or  navigable  rivers 
and  especially  the  river  of  Martin  de  Aguilar.  A  i^oint  which  he  conceived  to  be  the 
Cape  Blanco  indicated  on  the  Spanish  charts,  Vancouver  marked  down  upon  his 
own  chart  as  Cape  Orford.  The  next  instance  worthy  of  note  was  his  passage  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  which  was  indicated  on  the  Sj)anish  charts  he  carried  as  Heceta 
inlet  or  the  entrance  to  the  Rio  de  San  Roque,  Avhile  on  his  English  map  it  was  noted 
as  the  Deception  bay  of  Captain  Meares.  On  the  twenty-seventh  of  April  he  recorded 
in  his  journal :  "  Noon  brought  us  up  with  a  cons2:)icuous  point  of  land  comj^osed  of  a 
cluster  of  hummocks,  moderately  high  and  projecting  into  the  sea.  On  the  south  side 
of  this  promontory  was  the  apjDcarance  of  an  inlet,  or  small  river,  the  land  not  indica- 
ting it  to  be  of  any  great  extent,  nor  did  it  seem  to  be  accessible  to  vessels  of  our 
burthen,  as  .the  breakers  extended  from  the  above  point  two  or  three  miles  into  the 
ocean,  until  they  joined  those  on  the  beach  nearly  four  leagues  further  south.  (~)n 
reference  to  Mr.  Meares's  description  of  the  coast  south  of  this  promontory,  I  was  at 
first  induced  to  believe  it  to  be  Cape  Shoalwater,  but  on  ascertaining  its  latitude,  I  pi'e- 


y6      *- 


PACIFIC    COAST.  77 

sumod  it  to  be  that  which  he  calls  Cape  Disappointment ;  and  the  oi)ening  to  the  south 
of  it  Deception  bay.  This  cape  was  found  to  be  in  latitude  46°  19',  longitude  286°  6' 
[He  reckoned  east  from  Greenwich.]  The  sea  now  changed  from  its  natural  to  river 
coloured  water  ;  the  probable  consequence  of  some  streams  falling  into  the  bay,  or  into 
the  ocean  to  the  north  of  it,  through  the  low  land.  Not  considering  this  opening- 
worthy  of  more  attention,  I  continued  our  pursuit  to  the  N.  W.,  being  desirous  to  em- 
brace the  advantages  of  the  prevailing  breeze  and  pleasant  weather,  so  favorable  to  our 
examination  of  the  coast." 

Vancouver  rounded  Cape  Disappointment  and  continued  up  the  shore.  He  says  : 
"  The  country  before  us  presented  a  most  luxuriant  landsca^^e,  and  was  probably  not  a 
little  heightened  in  value  by  the  weather  that  prevailed.  The  more  interior  parts  were 
somewhat  elevated,  and  agreeably  diversified  with  hills,  from  which  it  gradually  de- 
scended from  the  shore,  and  terminated  in  a  sandy  beach.  The  whole  had  the  appear- 
ance of  a  continued  forest  extending  north  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  which  made 
me  very  solicitous  to  find  a  port  in  the  vicinity  of  a  country  presenting  so  delightful  a 
prospect  of  fertility ;  our  attention  was  therefore  earnestly  directed  to  this  object."  At 
one  time  he  was  of  the  opinion  that  Shoalwater  bay  presented  a  suitable  harbor,  but 
renounced  the  belief  upon  attempting  to  enter  the  bay  and  failing  because  of  the  jjres- 
ence  of  an  unbroken  line  of  breakers.  They  passed  Gray's  harbor  in  the  night,  and 
after  noting  the  position  of  Destruction  island  and  observing  Mount  Olympus,  "  the 
most  remarkable  mountain  we  had  seen  on  the  coast  of  New  Albion,"  fell  in  with  the 
Columbia  a  few  miles  south  of  the  Straits  of  Fuca. 

Vancouver  sent  an  officer  to  the  American  vessel  to  glean  information  from 
its  commander,  who  hesitated  not  to  tell  all  he  knew  of  the  coast.  Among  other  things 
the  English  captain  notes  in  his  journal :  "  He  likewise  informed  them  of  his  having 
been  off  the  mouth  of  a  river  in  the  latitude  46°  10\  where  the  outset,  or  reflux,  was 
so  strong  as  to  prevent  his  entering  for  nine  days.  This  was  probably  the  opening 
passed  by  us  on  the  forenoon  of  the  twenty-seventh;  and  was,  apparently,  inaccessible, 
not  from  tlii'  current,  but  from  the  breakers  which  extended  across  it."  That  Gray 
must  have  made  this  effort  to  enter  the  Columbia  sometime  the  previous  year  is  evident 
from  the  fact  that  Vancouver  states  that  he  was  "  now  commencing  his  summer's  trade 
along  the  coast  to  the  southward."  The  above  remarks  show  plainly  that  Vancouver 
had  no  faith  in  the  existence  of  such  a  stream  as  Aguilar's  river,  Rio  de  8an  Roque, 
Oregon,  or  River  of  the  West,  and  this  is  rendered  more  certain  by  an  entry  in  his 
journal  made  upon  reaching  Cape  Flattery,  that  there  "was  not  the  least  appearance  of 
a  safe  or  secui-e  harbour,  either  in  that  latitude,  or  from  it  southward  to  Cape  Mendo- 
cino ;  notwithstanding  that,  in  that  space,  geographers  had  thought  it  expedient  to 
furnish  many.  '■'  '■■  '''  So  minutely  had  this  extensive  coast  been  inspected, 
that  the  surf  had  been  constantly  seen  to  break  ui)on  its  shores  from  the  masthead; 
and  it  was  but  in  a  few  small  intervals  only,  where  our  distance  precluded  its  being- 
visible  fi'om  the  deck.  Whenever  tlie  weather  i)revented  our  making  free  with  the 
shore,  or  on  our  hauling  off  for  the  night,  the  return  of  fine  weather  and  of  daylight 
uniformly  brought  us,  if  not  to  the  identical  spot  we  had  departed  from,  at  least  within 
a  few  miles  of  it,  and  never  beyond  the  northern  limits  of  the  coast  which  we  had 
|>rcviously  seen.      An  exuinination   so  dii-ectcd,  and   circuinstances  hap]iily  concui'rin;^- 


78  PACIFIC    COAST. 

to  permit  its  being  so  exeeuted,  aiforded  the  most  complete  opportunity  of  determining 
its  various  turnings  and  windings.  '■■  *  '■■■  It  must  be  considered  as  a 
very  singular  circumstance  that,  in  so  great  an  extent  of  sea  coast,  we  should  not  until 
now  [He  was  in  the  Straits  of  Fuca]  have  seen  the  api^earance  of  any  opening  in  its 
shores  which  presented  any  certain  jjrospect  of  affording  shelter  ;  the  whole  coast 
forming  one  compact,  solid,  and  nearly  straight  barrier  against  the  sea.  The  river 
Mr.  Gray  mentioned  should,  from  the  latitude  he  assigned  to  it,  have  existence  in  the 
bay,  south  of  Cape  Disappointment.  This  we  passed  on  the  forenoon  of  the  twenty- 
seventh  ;  and,  as  I  then  observed,  if  any  inlet  or  river  should  be  found,  it  must  be  a 
very  intricate  one,  and  inaccessible  to  vessels  of  our  burthen,  owing  to  the  reefs 
and  broken  water  which  then  appeared  in  its  neighborhood.  Mr.  Gray  stated  that 
he  had  been  several  days  attempting  to  enter  it,  which  at  length  he  was  unable  to 
effect,  in  consequence  of  a  very  strong  outset.  This  is  a  phenomenon  difficult  to  ac- 
count for,  as,  in  most  eases  where  there  are  outsets  of  such  strength  on  a  sea  coast,  there 
are  corresponding  tides  setting  in.  Be  that  however  as  it  may,  I  was  thoroughly  con- 
vinced, as  were  also  most  persons  of  observation  on  board,  that  we  could  not  possibly 
have  passed  any  safe  navigable  ojiening,  harbour,  or  place  of  security  for  shipping  on 
this  coast,  from  Cape  Mendocino  to  the  promontory  of  Classet  (Cape  Flattery);  nor  had 
we  any  reason  to  alter  our  opinions."  Such  was  the  deliberate  conclusion  of  this  dis- 
tinguished navigator  after  a  thorough  and  searching  examination  of  the  coast,  and  yet 
within  the  limits  he  thus  declares  to  be  barren  of  harbors  or  navigable  rivers  are  to  be 
found  the  harbors  of  Humboldt  bay,  Trinidad  bay,  Crescent  City,  Port  Orford, 
Coquille  river,  Coos  bay,  Yaquiua  bay,  Columbia  river,  Shoalwater  bay  and  Gray's 
harbor. 

Had  it  not  been  for  the  persevering  zeal  of  an  American,  the  C'olumbia  might 
have  listened  solely  to  "his  own  dasbings"  for  many  years  to  come,  since  such  a 
decided  statement  from  so  competent  an  officer  of  his  majesty's  navy  would  have  been 
received  as  finally  settling  the  question  of  the  existence  of  such  a  stream  and  have  put 
an  end  to  all  search  for  one  in  that  locality.  Gray  had  his  own  ideas  on  the  subject, 
and  proposed  to  carry  them  out  in  spite  of  the  adverse  opinion  of  the  British  captain. 
He  continued  his  voyage  down  the  coast,  and  on  the  seventh  of  May  entered  a  bay  in 
latitude  46  degrees  and  48  minutes,  where  he  lay  at  anchor  three  days.  This  he  chris- 
tened Bulfinch's  harbor,  in  honor  of  one  of  the  owners  of  the  Columbia,  but  it  was 
called  Gray's  harbor  by  Captain  Vancouver  in  memory  of  the  discoverer,  and  retains 
that  honorable  title  to  the  present  day. 

Gray  rounded  Cape  Disappointment  early  on  the  morning  of  the  eleventh  of  ^lay, 
and  the  weather  being  favorable,  set  all  sail  and  stood  boldly  in  among  the  high  rolling 
breakers  whose  threatening  aspect  had  intimidated  both  ^Nleares  and  Vancouver  and 
caused  them  to  assert  that  they  were  impassable.  With  great  nautical  skill  and  superl) 
judgment,  he  followed  accurately  the  channel  of  the  stream,  and  at  one  o'clock  anchored 
"  in  a  large  river  of  fresh  water,"  at  a  distance  of  ten  miles  from  the  guarding  line  of 
breakers.  Here  he  spent  three  days  in  filling  his  casks  with  fresh  water  and  in  trading 
with  the  natives  who  swarmed  about  the  vessel  in  canoes,  the  Chinook  village  being 
close  by  on  the  river  bank.  He  then  sailed  up  stream  "upwards  of  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles,"  but  having  unfortunately  missed  the  main  channel  was  unable  to  proceed  further, 


PACIFIC    COAST.  71) 

and  dropped  down  again  to  the  nioutli  of  the  river.  Having  execnted  some  much- 
ueeded  repairs  on  the  vessel,  he  took  advantage  of  a  favorable  breeze  on  the  twentieth 
and  crossed  over  the  bar  to  the  open  sea.  To  this  great  stream  which  he  entered  May 
11,  1792,  Gray  gave  the  name  borne  by  his  vessel,  Columbia,  while  the  bluffy  point  to 
the  north  of  the  entrance,  which  had  been  named  Cape  San  Roque  by  Heceta  and  Cape 
Disappointment  by  Meares,  he  called  Cape  Hancock  in  honor  of  that  revered  patriot 
whose  bold  signature  was  the  first  on  the  declaration  of  independence.  The  name  of 
Adams,  the  patriotic  statesman  of  Massachusetts  and  vice  president  of  the  republic,  he 
bestowed  upon  the  low  point  to  the  south  which  had  been  designated  l\v  Heceta  as  Cape 
Frondoso. 

The  (Mumhia  sailed  northward  to  the  east  coast  of  Queen  Charlotte  island,  where 
she  ran  upon  a  sunken  ledge  of  rocks  and  barely  escaped  total  destruction.  She 
managed,  however,  to  reach  Nootka  sound  in  a  badly  damaged  condition,  where  she 
was  again  made  tight  and  seaworthy  by  her  carpenters.  To  Captain  Bodega  y  Quadra 
the  Spanish  commissioner  who  was  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Vancouver,  Gray  gave  a 
chart  showing  the  entrance  to  Bulfinch's  harbor  and  the  Columbia,  and  in  conjunction 
with  Josejih  Ingraham  who  had  been  mate  of  the  Columbia  during  the  Nootka  difficul- 
ties and  who  was  now  captain  of  the  Hope  then  lying  in  the  harbor,  made  a  statement 
of  the  difficult}'  between  Colnett  and  Martinez,  wdiich  Bodega  retained  for  the  inspec- 
tion of  Vancouver.     Gray  and  Ingraham  then  sailed  for  home  by  the  way  of  Canton. 

Meanwhile  Vancouver  had  been  making  many  important  explorations.  With  his 
two  vessels  he  entered  the  Straits  of  Fuca  on  the  twenty-ninth  of  April  and  proceeded 
slowly  inward,  making  a  careful  examination  as  he  progressed.  In  his  explora- 
tions of  the  straits  and  Puget  sound,  so  named  in  honor  of  one  of  the  officers  of  his 
vessel,  he  consumed  two  months,  carefully  examining  every  inlet  and  arm  of  the  great 
inland  sea.  Many  of  the  familiar  names  of  that  region  were  bestowed  by  him  ;  such  m 
New  Dungeuess,  from  a  fancied  resemblance  to  Dungeness  in  the  British  channel ;  Port 
Discovery,  in  liouoi'  of  his  own  vessel  ;  Port  Townsend,  as  a  compliment  to  "  the  noble 
Marquis  of  that  name;"  Mount  Baker;  Mount  Rainier,  in  honor  of  Rear  Admiral 
Rainier ;  Hood's  channel,  after  Lord  Hood;  Port  Orchard,  the  name  of  the  officer  who 
discovered  it ;  Admiralty  inlet ;  Vashon  island,  after  Captain  Vashon  of  the  navy ; 
Possession  sound,  where  he  landed  on  the  fourth  of  June  and  took  possession  in  the 
name  of  King  George  of  England;  Whidbey  island,  after  one  of  his  lieutenants  ;  Decej)- 
tion  pass;  Burrard's  channel,  in  compliment  to  Sir  Harry  Burrard  ;  Bellingham  bay  ; 
Bute's  channel.  To  the  whole  body  of  water  to  which  access  was  had  by  way  of  the 
Straits  of  Fuca  he  gave  the  name  of  Gulf  of  Georgia,  in  honor  of  his  sovereign,  while 
the  main  land  surrounding  it  and  reaching  south  to  the  45th  parallel,  or  Xew  xllbion, 
was  distinguished  by  the  title  of  New  Georgia. 

As  he  emerged  from  Puget  sound  to  proceed  northward  through  the  u{)per  por- 
tion of  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  he  fell  in  with  the  two  Spanish  vessels  that  had  been  dis- 
patched early  in  the  spring  by  the  viceroy  to  explore  the  Straits  of  Fuca.  Between 
the  commanders  of  these  rival  vessels  many  courtesies  w^ere  exchanged,  and,  being  on 
the  same  errand,  they  for  a  time  pursued  their  explorations  together.  After  parting 
t'ompany  with  the  Spaniards,  Vancouver  proceeded  northward,  exploring  the  coa.st  of 
the  mainland,  until    he    reached   Queen    Charlotte   island,  near  which    both    the   Z)/.s"- 


80  PACIFIC   COAST. 

corery  and  Cliuthaiii  grounded  on  the  rocks.  They  were  skillfully  extricated  from 
their  perilous  position  and  taken  to  Xootka  sound. 

Upon  his  arrival  there,  whither  the  two  Spanish  vessels  had  preceded  him,  \im- 
couver  opened  negotiations  with  Bodega  y  Quadra  in  regard  to  restoration  of  lands 
provided  for  in  the  treaty.  The  only  houses  and  lands  which  British  subjects  had 
ever  possessed  in  any  form,  were  the  temporary  structure  Meares  had  erected  for  his 
men  while  engaged  in  building  the  Northwest  America,  and  the  small  tract  of  land 
upon  which  it  stood.  Though  all  vestige  of  this  habitation  had  disappeared  before 
Martinez  had  taken  possession  in  1789,  still  Quadra  expressed  his  willingness  to  sur- 
render the  tract  of  land  to  Vancouver,  but  the  English  commissioner  demanded  pos- 
session of  the  whole  of  Nootka  sound  and  Cloyoquot.  This  Quadra  refused  to  give, 
and  Vancouver  refused  to  compromise  his  government  by  receiving  less,  and  sent  an 
oflB.cer  to  England  by  the  way  of  China  with  information  of  the  condition  of  affairs. 
Between  Vancouver  and  Quadra  personally  the  utmost  cordial  relations  existed,  and 
since  the  land  upon  which  Nootka  stood  had  been  found  to  be  an  island,  they  agreed 
to  have  the  "  honors  easy"  in  naming  it.  It  was  therefore  entered  upon  the  explorer's 
chart  as  the  Island  of  Quadra  and  Vancouver,  but  is  now  and  has  been  for  years 
known  only  as  Vancouver  island. 

The  Daedalus  having  arrived  from  England  with  supplies,  Vancouver  sailed  from 
Nootka  with  the  three  vessels  to  explore  Gray's  harbor  and  the  Columbia,  having 
received  from  Quadra  the  description  of  those  places  left  with  him  by  Captain  Gray. 
On  the  eighteenth  of  October,  1792,  the  Daedalus,  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Whidbey, 
entered  Gray's  harbor,  while  the  two  consorts  continued  to  the  Columbia.  On  the 
morning  of  the  nineteenth  the  Chatham  and  Discovery  attemj)ted  the  passage  of  the 
bar,  the  former  crossing  safely,  but  the  latter  hauling  off  for  fear  there  was  not  a  suf- 
ficient dejith  of  water.  This  circumstance  led  Vancouver  to  record  in  his  journal  that 
his  "  former  opinion  of  this  port  being  inaccessible  to  vessels  of  our  burthen  was  now 
fully  confirmed,  with  this  exception,  that  in  very  fine  weather,  with  moderate  winds, 
and  a  smooth  sea,  vessels  not  exceeding  four  hundred  tons  might,  so  far  as  we  were 
enabled  to  judge,  gain  admittance."  It  was  while  lying  at  anchor  off  the  bar  that  he 
gained  a  view  of  a  "high,  round  snow  mountain"  far  up  the  stream,  which  he  named 
Mount  St.  Helens,  in  honor  of  his  Britanic  majesty's  ambassador  at  the  court  of 
Madrid. 

The  first  sound  that  saluted  the  commander  of  the  Chatham  upon  crossing  the 
bar  was  the  report  of  a  cannon,  which  was  answered  in  a  similar  manner  by  Lieuten- 
ant Broughton.  It  came  from  a  Bristol  brig  called  the  Jenny,  lying  in  a  sheltered 
bay  within  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  which  has  ever  since  been  known  as  Baker's  bay 
in  honor  of  the  captain  of  that  little  craft.  This  made  the  second  vessel  to  enter  the 
river  before  the  representatives  of  Great  Britain  undertook  to  explore  it.  The  Chat- 
ham lay  in  the  river  several  days,  during  which  time  Broughton  ascended  the  stream 
in  a  boat  some  120  miles,  as  far  as  a  poir.r  which  he  named  in  honor  of  the  commander 
of  the  expedition,  being  the  same  upon  wnich  Fort  Vancouver  was  afterwards  built  l>y 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  During  his  stay  he  formally  "  took  possession  of  the 
river  and  the  country  in  its  vicinity  in  his  Britanic  majesty's  name,  having  every  rea- 
son to  believe  that  the  subjects  of  no  other  civilized   nation  or  state  had  ever  entered 


%. 


TO 

3 

/ 

■z. 

«\ 

vA 

a 

K?A„ 

"^ 

31 

',V^ 

^ 

X 

C 

1 

3 

')r 

E 

^% 

^ 

^ 

r- 

^-i 

r- 
rn 

C3 

4f 

D 

PACIFIC   COAST.  81 

this  river  hefbre."  Tlie  closing  portion  of  this  sentence  sounds  strangely  from  one 
who  had  in  his  possession  at  the  time  he  penned  it  the  rough  chart  made  by  Gray, 
which  had  been  the  cause  of  his  being  there  at  all.  It  is  explained  by  saying  that  he 
affected  to  consider  the  broad  estuary  near  the  mouth  of  the  stream  as  no  portion  of 
the  river,  and  that  in  consequence  Gray  had  not  entered  the  river  proper.  This 
strained  construction  England  maintained  in  the  after  controversy  with  the  United 
States  aljout  the  rights  of  discovery. 

Vancouver  remained  in  the  Pacific  two  years  longer,  spending  the  summers  of 
1793  and  1794  in  carefully  exploring  the  coast  of  the  mainland  above  Queen  Char- 
lotte island,  searching  every  cove  and  inlet  for  a  passage  to  the  Atlantic,  until  he 
became  as  thoroughly  convinced  that  there  was  no  such  passage  as  he  had  been  that 
no  such  river  as  the  Columbia  existed.  Meanwhile  negotiations  were  carried  on 
between  England  and  Spain  in  regard  to  Nootka,  and  those  two  nations  having  allied 
themselves  against  France,  the  Xootka  affair  was  dropped.  In  the  spring  of  1795  the 
Spaniards  abandoned  Nootka  sound  forever,  the  question  of  possession  never  having 
been  settled,  and  thus  the  whole  affiiir  ended. 

When  the  independence  of  her  American  colonies  was  granted  by  England,  that 
nation  was  left  without  any  representative  in  North  America  by  whom  her  dominion 
could  be  extended  westward,  exce2:)t  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  organization 
was  more  deeply  interested  in  maintaining  the  vast  region  to  the  west  and  north  as  a 
fur-bearing  wilderness  than  in  adding  new  jewels  to  the  British  crown.  It  was  only 
when  a  rival  to  the  great  monopoly  grew  up  and  threatened  to  carry  on  successful  op- 
position that  the  old  company  adopted  a  more  aggressive  policy. 

As  early  as  1775  a  few  Montreal  traders  had  pushed  as  far  west  as  the  Saskatchewan 
and  Athabaska  rivers,  and  opened  up  a  successful  trade,  which  was  carried  on  for  some 
years  by  independent  traders.  At  last,  in  1784,  because  of  inability  to  contend  and 
compete  with  the  monopoly  as  individuals,  these  traders  combined  together  as  the 
Northwest  Company  of  Montreal.  This  company  operated  in  a  most  practical  manner, 
its  agents  all  being  interested  partners,  and  soon  became  an  organization  of  much 
wealth  and  power.  The  company  steadily  pushed  its  agents  and  stations  westward,  and 
energetically  extended  the  limits  of  its  operations.  In  1778  a  station  had  been  estab- 
lished on  Athabaska  river,  some  1200  miles  northwest  of  Lake  Superior,  but  in  1788 
this  was  abandoned  and  Fort  Chipewyan  built  on  Lake  Athabaska,  which  became  the 
base  of  the  company's  operations  in  the  extreme  west.  Traders  extended  their  opera- 
tions westward  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  called  by  them  Shining  mountains  or  Moun- 
tains of  Bright  Stones. 

In  1789  Alexander  Mackenzie,  the  gentleman  in  charge  of  Fort  Chipewyan,  dis- 
covered the  Mackenzie  river  where  it  issues  from  Great  Slave  lake,  and  followed  down 
its  whole  course  to  the  Arctic  ocean.  The  same  gentleman  started  in  October,  1792,  to 
cross  the  continent  to  the  Pacific.  He  passed  up  Peace  river  and  camped  until  spring 
at  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  engaging  in  trade.  In  June,  1793,  he  crossed  the 
mountains,  and  descended  in  canoes  a  large  river  a  distance  of  250  miles.  This  he 
called  the  Tacoutcliee-Tassee,  and  after  the  discovery  of  the  Columbia  was  announced 
it  was  supposed  to  be  identical  with  that  great  stream,  until  in  1812  Simon  Fraser 
traced  it  to  the  ocean  and  called  it  Eraser's  river.      Upon  leaving  this  stream   ^lac- 


82  PACIFIC   COAST. 

kenzie  eoutiiiued  westward  some  200  miles  and  cauglit  sight  of  the  oceau  July  22,  1793, 
being  the  first  Caucasian,  and  possibly  the  first  human  being,  to  cross  America  overland 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  north  of  Mexico.  The  25lace  at  which  he  reached  the 
ocean  was  in  latitude  52  degrees  and  20  minutes,  and  had  been  exj^lored  and  named 
Cascade  canal  but  a  few  weeks  before  by  Vancouver. 

The  two  journeys  of  this  energetic  trader,  the  careful  explorations  of  Cook  and 
Vancouver,  and  discovery  of  the  Columbia  by  Gray,  served  to  enlighten  all  interested 
nations  in  regard  to  the  nature  of  the  American  continent,  and  to  prove  conclusively 
that  neither  the  Straits  of  Aniau  nor  the  Rio  de  los  Reyes  had  any  other  existence 
than  in  the  fancy  of  those  who,  centuries  before,  had  proclaimed  them.  The  Northwest 
Company  pushed  its  agents  down  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri,  while  French  and 
Spanish  traders  ascended  that  stream  from  St.  Louis,  and  engaged  in  trade  with  the 
natives  and  trapped  the  streams  for  beaver.  Because  of  the  Spanish  claim  to  Louisiana, 
American  traders  were  much  confined  in  the  limits  of  their  operations,  and  were  also 
restricted  by  the  holding  back  of  posts  in  the  region  of  the  great  lakes  which  Great 
Britain  should  have  surrendered  under  the  terms  of  the  treaty  of  1783.  These  were 
surrendered  in  1794  by  special  treaty,  which  instrument  also  provided  that  subjects  of 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  should  have  unrestricted  intercourse  and  rights  of 
trade.  From  this  time  American  fur  traders  extended  their  operations  further  west- 
ward and  inci'eased  the  volume  of  their  trade.  This  was  the  condition  of  aifairs  in 
America  at  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century. 


OREGON. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

CAPTAINS  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE  TRAVERSE  THE  CONTINENT. 

Situation  at  the  Beginning-  of  the  Nineteenth  Century  -Colonial  Limits  of  the  United  States  The  Louisiana 
Purchase  England  and  America  Rivals  in  the  West  Expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clarke— Their  Winter  Among 
the  Mandans —Journey  up  the  Missouri.  Across  the  Rockies,  Down  Clarke's  Fork,  Through  the  Lolo  Trail, 
Down  Clearwater.  Snake  and  Columbia  Rivers  to  the  Pacifi:-  They  Wmter  at  Fort  Clatsop- -Discovery  of 
the  Willamette  -The  Walla  Wallas,  Cayuses  and  Nez  Perces  -Arrival  in  St.  Louis— What  the  Expedition 
Accomplished. 

"Take  the  wings 
Of  morning,  pierce  the  Barcan  wilderness, 
Or  lose  thyself  in  the  continuous  woods 
Where  rolls  the  Oregon,  and  hears  no  sound 
Save  his  own  dashings." 

So  sang  Bryant  of  the  mighty  Cokiiubia  and  the  hmd  of  "coutinuous  woods," 
through  which  it  majestically  rolls.  The  name  Oregon  which  Carver  had  given  to  the 
Great  River  of  the  West  was  for  years  applied  to  the  Columbia  and  the  whole  region 
through  which  it  passes,  stretching  from  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific,  and  from 
California  indefinitely  northward.  The  name  bestowed  upon  the  stream  by  its  discov- 
erer gradually  crowded  Carver's  title  from  the  field,  until  it  is  now  recognized  as  the 
only  proper  one,  while  the  significance  of  Oregon  has  gradually  been  contracted  until 
that  title  now  applies  only  to  the  state  of  which  we  write. 

At  the  dawning  of  the  present  century,  now  rapidly  drawing  near  to  the  "sear  and 
yellow  leaf,"  three  powerful  nations  claimed  dominion  on  our  coast,  the  indefinite  boun- 
daries of  their  alleged  possessions  conflicting  and  overlapping  to  such  an  extent  as  to  be 
a  constant  menace  of  war.  England,  Sixain  and  Russia  claimed  territorial  sovereignty 
gained  by  the  discoveries  and  acts  of  persons  officially  empowered  by  their  respective 
governments,  while  in  common  with  them  representatives  of  the  merchant  fleets  of  the 
United  States,  France,  Portugal  and  Austria  sotight  the  Pacific  waters  to  reap  tlic  liar- 
vest  of  wealth  that  lay  in  the  fur  trade  of  the  coast. 

Suddenly  and  almost  unexpectedly  a  new  nation  step2:)ed  ujion  the  jilain  to  contest 
witli  her  powerful  rivals  the  palm  of  territorial  dominion,  and  this  was  the  new-l^orn 
republic,  the  United  States  of  America.     In  the  few  years  whicli  had  elapsed  since  her 


84  OBEGON. 

long  struggle  for  independence  had  been  crowned  with  success,  and  esjjecially  since  a 
constitutional  bond  had  firmly  cemented  the  states  into  one  grand,  united  nation,  her 
growth  in  population,  wealth,  power  and  importance  had  been  wonderful,  and  she  now 
prepared  to  assert  her  natural  right  to  extend  her  borders  in  the  direction  plainly  indi- 
cated by  the  hand  of  nature. 

The  position  the  United  States  then  occ'upied  in  relation  to  Oregon  may  be  briefly 
stated  as  follows:  At  the  treaty  of  1783,  where  Great  Britain  formally  acknowledged 
the  independence  of  her  valiant  colonies,  her  commissioners  for  a  long  time  refused  to 
relimiuisli  to  them  that  portion  of  her  ^possessions  lying  between  the  AUeghanies  and 
the  ]Mississipjii ;  but  as  the  colonies  had  been  accustomed  to  exercise  jurisdiction  as  far 
west  as  the  great  river  of  DeSoto,  being  the  extreme  western  limit  of  British  posses- 
sions since  it  was  the  eastern  boundary  of  Louisiana,  the  American  commissioners  in- 
sisted upon  that  territory  being  included,  and  finally  carried  their  point.  Even  then  it 
was  eleven  years  before  England  surrendered  the  seven  military  i>osts  within  that  por- 
tion of  the  United  States  and  then  only  after  much  pressure  had  been  brought  to  bear. 
England  was,  therefore,  only  represented  in  America  after  the  revolution,  so  far  as 
western  exploration  and  settlement  was  concerned,  by  the  powerful  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, and  its  new  rival,  the  Northwest  Company,  whose  struggle  for  possession  of  the 
unclaimed  fur  regions  west  of  Canada  and  Hudson's  bay  has  been  already  alluded 
to  and  will  again  occupy  attention  further  on.  The  boundary  agreed  upon  between 
England  and  the  United  States  followed  up  the  St.  Lawrence  from  a  certain  initial 
point,  through  the  chain  of  great  lakes  and  the  smaller  ones  lying  west  of  Superior  as 
far  as  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  whence  the  line  cut  across  to  the  headwaters  of  the 
Mississipi^i,  and  followed  down  that  stream  to  the  Spanish  Florida  line.  This  left 
within  the  limits  of  the  United  States  a  portion  of  that  extremely  desirable  region 
spoken  of  by  Lahontan,  Hennepin  and  others,  and  but  recently  described  by  Captain 
Jonathan  Carver,  while  the  new  nation  bordered  upon  the  remainder  with  nothing 
but  the  theoretical  title  of  Spain  to  stand  between  her  and  an  indefinite  extension 
westward.  On  the  other  hand,  only  above  the  United  States  line  did  Great  Britain's 
230Ssessions  border  upon  this  terra  Incognita  and  in  a  region  universally  recognized  as 
being  fit  only  for  the  occupation  of  wandering  fur  traders. 

The  title  to  Louisiana  which  Spain  had  acquired  by  purchase  from  France  in  17G2, 
she  reconveyed  to  that  powerful  nation  in  1800 ;  but  Napoleon,  recognizing  the  fact 
that  his  ambitious  designs  in  Europe  would  only  be  hampered  by  the  jjossession  and 
necessary  protection  of  vast  territorial  interests  in  the  United  States,  and  desiring  to 
spite  England  and  place  her  face  to  face  in  America  with  an  energetic  and  iiowerful 
rival,  sold  the  whole  province  with  all  the  right  and  title  of  France  to  the  United 
States  in  1803.  "  The  eastern  boundary  was  the  Mississippi ;  its  southwestern  limit  the 
Spanish,  Mexican  and  California  possessions,  while  to  the  northwest  there  was  no  limit 
whatever.  This  action,  so  entirely  unexpected  by  England,  changed  the  whole  aspect 
of  affairs  in  America,  and  left  the  United  States  without  any  bar  whatever  to  prevent 
the  extension  of  her  dominions  toward  the  Pacific. 

At  the  time  John  Ledyard  undertook  to  organize  a  company  in  Paris  to  engage 
in  the  Pacific  fur  trade,  Thomas  Jefierson  was  residing  there  as  representative  of  the 
United  States  at  the  court  of  France,  and  became  deeply  interested  in  his  project  of 


'^J!ppj^^J4^ 


OREGON.  85 

exploring  the  northwestern  wilderness  of  America,  which  was  defeated  by  the  Russian 
traders.  In  1792  ^Mr.  Jefferson  i)roi)Osed  to  the  American. Philosophical  Society  that 
A  subscription  be  raised  for  the  purpose  of  engaging  some  competent  person  to  explore 
that  region  "by  ascending  the  Missouri,  crossing  the  Stony  mountains,  and  descending 
the  nearest  river  to  the  Pacific."  Meriwether  Lewis,  a  native  of  Virginia  and  a  lieu- 
tenant in  the  United  States  army,  warmly  solicited  the  position,  and  was  selected  at 
the  request  of  Mr.  Jefferson.  Mr.  Andre  Michaux,  a  distinguished  French  botanist, 
was  chosen  as  his  traveling  companion.  This  gentleman  was  in  the  employ  of  the 
French  government,  and  when  he  had  proceeded  as  far  as  Kentucky  upon  the  overland 
journey,  he  was  recalled  by  the  French  minister,  and  the  expedition  was  abandoned. 
On  the  eighteenth  of  January,  1803,  Mr.  Jefferson,  as  president  of  the  United  States, 
incorjiorated  into  a  special  message  to  congress  on  the  Indian  question  a  suggestion  that 
such  a  journey  as  he  had  before  advocated  be  made  by  representatives  of  the  govern- 
ment. This  projJOsition  was  approved  by  congress  and  an  ample  ajjpropriation  made 
to  carry  it  into  effect.  Lewis  had  then  become  a  caj^tain  and  was  acting  in  the  capacity 
of  private  secretary  to  the  25resident,  and  upon  urgent  solicitation  received  the  direction 
of  the  enterprise.  Captain  Lewis  selected  William  Clarke  as  an  associate  in  command, 
and  that  gentleman  accordingly  received  a  captain's  commission  and  was  detailed  for 
this  duty. 

In  the  instructions  drawn  up  for  the  guidance  of  the  party,  the  president  says: 
"The  object  of  your  mission  is  to  explore  the  Missouri  river,  and  such  principal  streams 
of  it,  as,  by  its  course  and  communication  with  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  whether 
the  Columbia,  Oregon,  Colorado,  or  any  other  river,  may  offer  the  most  direct  and 
practicable  water  communication  across  the  continent,  for  the  purposes  of  commerce." 
They  were  directed  to  acquire  as  intimate  a  knowledge  as  possible  of  the  extent  and 
number  of  Indian  tribes,  their  manners,  customs  and  degree  of  civilization,  and  to 
report  fully  upon  the  topograph}^  the  character  of  the  soil,  the  natural  products,  the 
animal  life  and  minerals,  as  well  as  to  ascertain  by  scientific  observations  and  inquiry 
as  much  as  possible  about  the  climate,  and  to  inquire  especially  into  the  fur  trade  and 
the  needs  of  commerce.  Since  Louisiana  had  not  yet  been  formally  conveyed  to  the 
United  States,  Captain  Lewis'  instructions  contained  a  paragraph  saying :  "Your  mis- 
sion has  lieen  communicated  to  the  ministers  here  from  France,  Spain  and  Great  Britain, 
and  thi-ough  them  to  their  governments ;  and  such  assurances  given  them  as  to  its  ob- 
jects, as  we  trust  will  satisfy  them.  The  country  of  Louisiana  having  been  ceded  by 
Spain  to  France,  the  jiassport  you  have  from  the  minister  of  France,  the  representative 
of  the  present  sovereign  of  the  country,  will  be  a  protection  with  all  irs  subjects  ;  and 
that  from  the  minister  of  Elugland  will  entitle  you  to  the  friendly  aid  of  any  traders 
of  that  allegiance  with  whom  you  may  happen  to  meet." 

All  arrangements  were  completed  and  Lewis  left  Washington  on  the  fiftli  of  July, 
ISO;;,  only  a  few  days  subsequent  to  the  receipt  of  the  joyful  intelligence  that  France 
had  ceded  Louisiana  to  the  United  States.  He  Avas  joined  by  Clarke  at  Louisville, 
and  the  two  selected  their  men  and  repaired  to  St.  Louis,  near  which  they  encamped 
until  s])ring.  The  party  which  finally  started  on  this  great  journey  3Iay  14,  1804, 
consistetl  of  Captain  Meriwether  Lewis,  Captain  William  Clarke,  nine  young  men 
iVom  Kentucky,  fourteen  soldiers,  two  French    watermen,   known    in  tlie  parlance  of 


86  OEEGOX. 

fur  traders  as  voyageurs,  an  interpreter  and  hunter  and  a  negro  servant  of  Captain 
Clarke.  Besides  these  were  a  number  of  assistants  who  accompanied  the  expedition  as 
far  as  the  Mandan  country. 

The  party  ascended  the  Missouri  as  far  as  the  region  inhabited  by  the  Mandan 
Indians,  with  wliom  they  spent  the  winter,  and  while  there  negotiated  treaties  of  peace 
between  their  hosts  and  the  Ricarees,  and  informed  themselves  carefully  upon  the  con- 
dition of  Indian  affairs  and  the  geography  of  the  surrounding  country. 

In  the  spring  of  1805  the  journey  westward  was  resumed,  by  following  u])  the 
Missouri,  of  whose  course,  tributaries  and  the  great  falls  they  had  received  very  minute 
and  accurate  information  from  their  Mandan  friends.  Passing  the  mouth  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone, which  name  they  record  as  being  but  a  translation  of  Roche  Jaune,  the  title 
.given  it  by  French-Canadian  trappers  who  had  already  visited  it,  they  continued  up 
the  Missouri,  passed  the  castellated  rocks  and  the  great  falls  and  cascades,  ascended 
through  the  mighty  canyon,  and  reaching  the  headwaters  of  the  stream  crossed  the 
Rocky  mountain  divide  and  came  upon  the  stream  variously  known  along  its  course  as 
Deer  Lodge,  Hellgate,  Bitterroot,  Clarke's  Fork  of  the  Columbia  and  Pend  d'Oreille 
river.  Upon  this  they  bestowed  the  name  Clarke's  river,  and  so  it  should  be  called 
from  its  source  in  the  Rocky  mountains  to  where  it  unites  with  the  main  stream  in 
British  Columbia.  From  this  river  the  advance  party  under  Clarke  crossed  the  Bit- 
terroot mountains  by  the  Lolo  trail,  suffering  intensely  from  cold  and  hunger,  and  on 
the  twentieth  of  September  reached  a  village  of  ^ez  Perce  Indians  situated  on  a  plain 
about  fifteen  miles  from  the  south  fork  of  Clearwater  river,  where  they  were  received 
with  great  hospitality.  This  first  passage  of  the  mountains  by  representatives  of  the 
United  States  and  their  warm  reception  by  the  Indians,  contrast  strongly  with  a  scene 
witnessed  by  this  same  Lolo  trail,  when  in  1877  Howard's  army  hotly  pursued  Chief 
Joseph  and  his  little  band  of  hostile  jSTez  Perces,  who  were  fleeing  before  the  avengers 
from  the  scene  of  their  many  bloody  massacres. 

The  almost  famished  men  partook  of  such  quantities  of  the  food  liberally  pro- 
vided by  their  savage  hosts  that  many  of  them  became  ill,  among  them  being  Captain 
Clarke,  who  was  unable  to  continue  the  journey  until  the  second  day.  He  then  went 
to  the  village  of  Twisted-hair,  the  chief,  situated  on  an  island  in  the  stream  mentioned. 
To  the  river  he  gave  the  name  Koos-koos-kee,  erroneously  supposing  it  to  be  its 
Indian  title.  The  probabilities  are  that  the  Nez  Perces,  in  trying  to  inform  Captain 
Clarke  that  this  river  flowed  into  a  still  larger  one,  the  one  variously  known  as  Lewis, 
Sahaptin  or  Snake  river,  used  the  words  "  Koots-koots-kee,"  meaning  "  This  is  the 
smaller,"  and  were  understood  to  have  meant  that  as  the  name  of  the  stream.  The 
Nez  Perce  name  is  Kaih-kaih-koosh,  signifying  Clearwater,  the  name  it  is  gener- 
ally known  by. 

Having  been  united  the  two  parties  a  few  days  later  journeyed  on  down  the  Clear- 
water. Concerning  their  de^jlorable  condition  and  their  method  of  traveling  the 
journal  says  :  "  Captain  Lewis  and  two  of  the  men  were  taken  very  ill  last  evening, 
and  to-day  he  could  scarcely  sit  on  his  horse,  while  others  were  obliged  to  be  jjut  on 
horse-back  and  some,  from  extreme  weakness  and  pain,  were  forced  to  lie  down  along- 
side of  the  road.  ■'■  '■'  '^'  The  weather  was  very  hot  and  oppressive  to  the 
party,  most  of  whom   are  now  complaining  of  sickness.     Our  situation,  indeed,  ren- 


OREGON.  87 

(lered  it  necessary  to  liusl)aii(  I  our  remaining  strength  and  it  was  determined  to  proceed 
down  the  river  in  can(jes.  Captain  Clarke,  therefore,  set  out  witli  the  Twisted-hair, 
and  two  young  men,  in  quest  of  timher  for  canoes.  '^  ^'  •'•'  Having  resolved 
to  go  down  to  some  spot  calculated  for  building  canoes,  we  set  out  early  this  morning 
and  proceeded  five  miles,  and  encamped  on  low  ground  on  the  south  opi^osite  the  forks 
of  the  river."  The  canoes  being  constructed  they  embarked  in  the  month  of  October 
on  their  journey  down  the  Clearwater  and  connecting  streams  for  the  Pacific,  leaving 
what  remained  of  their  horses  in  charge  of  the  friendly  Nez  Perces.  They  had  for 
some  time  been  subsisting  upon  roots,  fish,  horse  meat  and  an  occasional  deer,  crow,  or 
wolf,  but  having  left  their  horses  behind  them  their  resort  when  out  of  other  food 
now  became  the  wolfish  dogs  they  purchased  from  the  Indians. 

Upon  reaching  Snake  river  which  was  named  in  honor  of  Captain  Lewis,  the 
canoes  were  turned  down  that  stream,  which  they  followed  to  the  Columbia,  naming  the 
Tukannon  river  Kim-so-emim,  a  title  derived  from  the  Indians,  and  upon  the  Pa- 
louse  bestowing  the  name  Drewyer,  in  honor  of  the  hunter  of  the  party.  They  then 
followed  down  the  Columbia  passing  a  number  of  rapids,  and  arriving  at  the  Cascades 
on  the  twenty-first  of  October.  A  portage  was  made  of  all  their  effects  and  a  230rtion 
of  the  canoes,  the  remainder  making  the  ijerilous  descent  of  the  cascades  or  falls  in 
safety.  The  mouth  of  the  Willamette  was  passed  without  the  addition  of  so  large  a 
stream  being  noticed.  Cape  Disappointment  was  reached  November  15,  and  the  eyes 
of  the  weary  travelers  were  gladdened  with  a  sight  of  the  graat  ocean  which  had  been 
their  goal  for  more  than  a  year.  The  season  of  winter  rains  having  set  in,  they  were 
soon  driven  by  high  water  from  the  low  land  on  the  north  bank  of  the  stream,  eleven 
miles  above  the  cape,  which  they  had  selected  for  their  winter  residence.  They  then 
left  the  Chinooks,  crossed  the  river,  and  built  a  habitation  on  the  high  land  on  the 
south  side  of  the  stream,  which  they  called  Fort  Clatsop,  in  honor  of  the  Indians  who 
inhabited  that  region.  Here  they  spent  the  winter,  making  occasional  short  excursions 
along  the  coast.  The  departure  for  home  was  delayed  with  the  hope  that  some  trading 
vessel  might  appear  from  which  sadly-needed  supplies  might  be  obtained,  but  being- 
disappointed  in  this  they  loaded  their  canoes  and  on  March  23,  1806,  took  final  leave 
of  Fort  Clatsoj).  Before  going  they  presented  the  chiefs  of  the  Chinooks  and  Clatsops, 
with  certificates  of  kind  and  hospitable  treatment,  and  circulated  among  the  natives 
several  papers,  posting  a  copy  on  the  wall  of  the  abandoned  fort,  which  read  as  follows: 
"  The  object  of  this  last  is,  that  through  the  medium  of  some  civilized  person,  who 
may  see  the  same,  it  may  be  made  known  to  the  world,  that  the  party,  consisting  of 
the  persons  whose  names  are  hereunto  annexed,  and  who  were  sent  out  by  the  Govern- 
ment of  the  United  States  to  explore  the  interior  of  the  continent  of  North  America, 
did  penetrate  the  same  by  the  way  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  i-ivers,  to  the  dis- 
charge of  the  latter  into  the  Pacific  ocean,  where  they  arrived  on  the  fourteenth  day 
of  November,  1805,  and  departed  the  twenty-third  day  of  March,  180G,  on  their 
return  to  the  United  States  by  the  same  route  by  which  they  had  come  out."  To  this 
was  appended  a  list  of  the  members  of  the  expedition.  One  of  these  copies  was  lianded 
by  an  Indian  the  following  year  to  a  fur  trader  whose  vessel  had  entered  the  Columbia, 
by  wlmni   it   was  taken   to  China   and  a   transcription  of  it  forwarded  to  the  United 


States  ;  thus,  even  had  the  party  perished  on  the  return  journey,  evidence  of  the  coni- 
jiletion  of  their  task  was  not  wanting. 

Upon  taking  an  invoice  of  their  possessions  before  starting  upon  the  return,  they 
found  that  their  goods  available  for  traffic  with  the  Indians  consisted  of  six  blue  robes, 
one  scarlet  robe,  one  U.  S.  artillery  hat  and  coat,  five  robes  made  from  the  national 
ensign,  and  a  few  old  clothes  trimmed  with  ribbon.  Upon  these  must  they  depend 
for  purchasing  provisions  and  horses  and  for  winning  the  hearts  of  stubborn  chiefr. 

They  proceeded  uj)  the  south  bank  of  the  stream,  until  they  came  unexpectedly 
upon  a  large  river  flowing  into  it  from  the  south,  On  an  island  near  its  mouth,  known 
to  the  early  trappers  as  Wapatoo  and  now  called  Sauvie's  island,  they  caine  upon  an 
Indian  village,  where  they  were  refused  a  sujjply  of  food.  To  impress  them  with  his 
power,  Captain  Clarke,  entered  one  of  their  habitations  and  cast  a  few  sulphur  matches 
into  the  fire.  The  savages  were  frightened  at  the  blue  flame  and  looked  upon  the 
strange  visitor  as  a  great  medicine  man.  They  implored  him  to  extinguish  the  "  evil 
fire,"  and  brought  all  the  food  he  desired.  The  name  of  the  Indian  village  was  Mult- 
nomah, but  Captain  Clarke  understood  the  name  to  apply  to  the  river,  of  whose  course 
he  made  careful  inquiry.  Upon  the  map  of  this  expedition  the  Multnomah  is  repre- 
sented as  extending  southward  and  eastward  into  California  and  Nevada,  and  the  In- 
dians who  resided  along  the  streams  that  flow  from  southeastern  Oregon  into  the  8nake 
are  represented  as  living  on  the  upper  branches  of  the  Multnomah.  The  true  Indian 
name  of  the  river  and  valley  is  Wallamet,  which  has  l^een  corrupted  to  Willamette  by 
those  who  conceived  the  idea  that  it  was  of  French  origin.  The  confusion  between, 
Indian,  French  and  English  names  in  this  region  has  resulted  in  many  very  jjccu- 
liar  and  ridiculous  appellations. 

At  the  mouth  of  Lapage  river,  the  stream  later  named  John  Day,  in  memory 
of  the  bold  mountaineer  who  met  such  a  tragic  fate,  the  canoes  were  abandoned,  and 
the  party  proceeded  up  the  Columbia  on  foot,  packing  their  baggage  upon  the  backs  of 
a  few  horses  purchased  from  the  natives.  Crossing  the  Umatilla,  which  they  called 
You-ma-lolam,  they  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Walla  Walla,  on  the  twenty-seventh  of 
April.  Yellept,  the  Walla  AValla  chief,  was  a  man  of  unusual  capacity  and  power,  and 
extended  to  them  the  most  cordial  and  bountiful  hosj)itality  they  had  enjoyed  since 
leaving  the  abodes  of  civilization.  How  difiereut  would  have  been  the  reception 
extended  them  could  the  old  chief  have  gazed  into  the  future  with  prophetic  eye,  ami 
seen  his  great  successor,  Peo-peo-mux-mux,  murdered  while  unjustly  a  prisoner  by 
members  of  the  same  race  and  tribe  to  which  these  white  guests  belonged !  It  is 
related  of  Yellept  that  in  after  years,  having  seen  the  last  of  five  noble  sons  perish  in 
battle  or  by  the  hand  of  disease,  he  called  together  the  tribe,  and  throwing  himself 
upon  the  body  of  his  last  son  sternly  bade  them  to  bury  him  with  his  dead.  With  loud 
lamentations  and  heart-broken  sobs  they  did  as  he  commanded,  and  buried  alive  the 
great  chief  they  both  loved  and  feared.  This  was  the  man  who  extended  his  hospi- 
talities to  Lewis  and  Clarke,  and  because  of  the  important  part  the  Walla  Wallas  and 
Cayuses  played  in  the  after  history  of  this  region,  the  following  account  given  by  those 
gentlemen  of  their  entertainers  is  presented :  Their  journal  says :  "  Immediately 
upon  our  arrival,  Yellept,  who  proved  to  be  a  man  of  much  influence,  not  only  in  his 
own,  but  in  the'neio'hborino-  nations,  collected  the  inhabitants,  and  after   havinsi'  maile  a 


WALUNO  llfH  PORTLAND   OH 


Residence  of  O.Coolidge. Ashland. 


OREGON.  89 

liarraugue,  the  i)urp(jrt  (if  wliich  was  to  induce  the  nations  to  treat  us  hospitably,  set 
them  an  example,  by  bringing  himself  an  armful  of  wood,  and  a  jilatter  containing 
three  roasted  mullets.  They  immediately  assented  to  one  part,  at  least,  of  the  recom- 
mendation, by  furnishing  us  with  an  abundance  of  the  only  sort  of  fuel  they  employ, 
the  stems  of  shrubs  growing  in  the  plains.  We  then  purchased  four  dogs,  on  which 
we  supped  heartily,  having  been  on  short  allowance  for  two  days  past.  When  we  were 
disposed  to  sleep,  the  Indians  retired  immediately  on  our  request,  and,  indeed,  uni- 
formly conducted  themselves  with  great  propriety.  These  people  live  on  roots,  which 
are  very  abundant  in  the  plains,  and  catch  a  few  salmon-trout;  but  at  present  they 
seem  to  subsist  chiefly  on  a  species  of  mullet,  weighing  from  one  to  three  pounds. 
*  *  *  Monday,  twenty-eighth,  w'e  purchased  ten  dogs.  While  this  trade 
was  carrying  on  by  our  men,  Yellept  brought  a  fine  white  horse,  and  presented  him  to 
Captain  Clarke,  expressing  at  the  same  time  a  wish  to  have  a  kettle ;  but  on  being 
informed  that  we  had  already  disposed  of  the  last  kettle  we  could  spare,  he  said  he 
would  be  content  with  any  present  we  should  make  in  return.  Captain  Clarke,  there- 
fore, gave  his  sword,  for  which  the  chief  had  before  expressed  a  desire,  adding  one 
hundred  balls,  some  powder,  and  other  small  articles,  with  which  he  appeared  jjerfectly 
satisfied.  We  were  now  anxious  to  depart,  and  requested  Yellept  to  lend  us  canoes  for 
the  purpose  of  crossing  the  river.  But  he  would  not  listen  to  any  proposal  of  leaving 
the  village.  He  wished  us  to  remain  two  or  three  days  ;  but  would  not  let  us  go  to- 
day, for  he  had  already  sent  to  invite  his  neighbors,  the  Chimnapoos  (Cayuses),  to 
come  down  this  evening  and  join  his  j^eople  in  a  dance  for  our  amusement.  We  urged, 
in  vain,  that  by  setting  out  sooner,  w^e  would  the  earlier  return  with  the  articles  they 
desired ;  for  a  day,  he  observed,  would  make  but  little  difference.  We  at  length  men- 
tioned, that,  as  there  was  no  wind,  it  was  now  the  best  time  to  cross  the  river,  and 
would  merely  take  the  horses  over,  and  return  to  sleep  at  their  village.  To  this  he 
assented,  and  then  we  crossed  with  our  horses,  and  having  hobbled  them,  returned  to 
theii'  camp.  Fortunately  there  was  among  these  WoUawollalis,  a  prisoner  belonging 
to  a  tribe  of  Shoshonee  or  Snake  Indians,  residing  to  the  south  of  the  Multnomah,  and 
visiting  occasionally  the  heads  of  the  Wollawollah  creek.  Our  Shoshonee  woman, 
Sacajaweah,  though  she  belonged  to  a  tribe  near  the  Missouri,  spoke  the  same  language 
as  this  prisoner,  and  by  their  means  we  were  able  to  explain  ourselves  to  the  Indians, 
and  answer  all  their  inquiries  with  respect  to  ourselves  and  the  object  of  our  journev. 
Our  conversation  inspired  them  with  much  confidence,  and  they  soon  brought  several 
sick  persons,  for  whom  they  requested  our  assistance.  We  splintered  the  broken  arm 
of  one,  gave  some  relief  to  another,  whose  knee  was  contracted  by  rheumatism,  and 
administered  what  we  thought  beneficial  for  ulcers  and  eruptions  of  the  skin,  on  various 
parts  of  the  body,  which  are  very  common  disoi'ders  among  them.  But  our  most  valu- 
able medicine  was  eye-water,  which  we  distributed,  and  which,  indeed,  they  required 
very  much;  the  complaint  of  the  eyes,  occasioned  by  living  on  the  water,  and  increased 
by  the  fine  sand  of  the  plains,  being  now  universal.  A  little  before  sunset,  the  Chim- 
napoos, amounting  to  one  hundred  men  and  a  few  women,  came  to  the  village, 
and  joining  the  WoUawoUahs.  who  were  about  the  same  number  of  nu'u,  formed 
tliemselves  in  a  circle  round  our  camp,  and  waited  veiy  i)atiently  till  our  men  were 
disposed  to  dance,  which  they  did  for  about  an  hour,  to  the  tune  of  tlie  violin.      They 


90  OREGON. 

tluMi  requested  to  see  the  Indians  dance.  With  this  they  readily  complied,  and  the 
whole  assemblage,  amounting,  with  the  women  and  childi-en  of  the  village,  to  several 
hundred,  stood  up,  and  sang  and  danced  at  the  same  time.  The  exercise  was  not,  in- 
deed, very  graceful,  for  the  greater  part  of  them  were  formed  into  a  solid  column,  round 
a  kind  of  hollow  square,  stood  on  the  same  j^lace,  and  merely  jumped  up  at  intervals, 
to  keep  time  to  the  music.  Some,  however,  of  the  more  active  wai-riors  entered  the 
square,  and  danced  round  it  sidewise,  and  some  of  our  men  joined  in  the  dance,  to  the 
great  satisfaction  of  the  Indians.  The  dance  continued  till  ten  o'clock  the  next  morn- 
ing. In  the  course  of  the  day  we  gave  small  medals  to  two  inferior  chiefs,  each  of 
whom  made  us  a  present  of  a  fine  horse.  We  were  in  a  poor  condition  to  make  an 
adequate  acknowledgment  for  this  kindness,  but  gave  several  articles,  among  which 
was  a  pistol,  with  some  hundred  rounds  of  ammunition.  We  have,  indeed,  been  treated 
by  these  jjeople  with  an  unusual  degree  of  kindness  and  civilty.  *  '^  *  We  may 
indeed,  justly  affirm  that  of  all  the  Indians  whom  we  have  met  since  leaving  the  United 
States,  the  Wollawollahs  were  the  most  hospitable,  honest  and  sincere." 

Bidding  adieu  to  these  hospitable  people,  they  left  the  Columbia  on  the  twenty- 
ninth  of  April  and  followed  eastward  what  is  known  as  the  Nez  Perce  trail.  They 
Avent  up  the  Touchet,  called  by  them  White  Stallion  because  of  the  present  Yellept 
had  made  to  Captain  Clarke,  the  Patet  and  Pataha  and  down  the  Alpowa  to  Snake 
river,  which  they  crossed  and  followed  up  the  north  side  of  Clearwater  until  they 
reached  the  village  of  Twisted-hair,  where  had  been  left  their  horses  the  fall  before. 
The  Lolo  trail  was  not  yet  free  from  snow  and  for  six  weeks  they  resided  among  the 
Nez  Perces,  a  tribe  closely  woven  into  the  history  of  this  region.  Of  them  and  the 
intercourse  held  with  them  the  fiiU  before,  the  journal  says  :  "The  Chopunnish  or 
Pierce-nosed  nation,  who  reside  on  the  Kooskooskee  and  Lewis'  rivers,  are  in  person 
stout,  portly,  well-looking  men;  the  women  are  small,  with  good  features,  and  generally 
handsome,  though  the  complexion  of  both  sexes  is  darker  than  that  of  the  Tushepaws. 
In  dress  they  resemble  that  nation,  being  fond  of  displaying  their  ornaments.  The 
buffalo  or  elk  skin  robe  decorated  with  beads,  sea  shells,  chiefly  mother-of-pearl, 
attached  to  an  otter  skin  collar,  and  hung  iji  the  hair,  which  falls  in  front  in  two  queues; 
feathers,  paint  of  different  kinds,  principally  white,  green  and  light  blue,  all  of  which 
they  find  in  their  own  country;  these  are  the  chief  ornaments  they  use.  In  winter  they 
wear  a  short  shirt  of  dressed  skins,  long  painted  leggings  and  moccasins,  and  a  plait  of 
twisted  grass  around  the  neck.  The  dress  of  the  women  is  more  simple,  consisting  of  a 
long  shirt  of  argalia  or  ibex  skin,  reaching  down  to  the  ankles  without  a  girdle ;  to 
this  are  tied  little  pieces  of  brass  and  shells,  and  other  small  articles ;  but  the  head 
is  not  at  all  ornamented.  The  dres-i  of  the  female  is  indeed  more  modest, 
and  more  studiously  so,  than  any  we  have  observed,  though  the  other  sex  is 
careless  of  the  indelicacy  of  exposure.  The  Chopunnish  have  very  few  amusements, 
for  their  life  is  painful  and  laborious ;  and  all  their  exertions  are  necessary  to  earn 
even  their  j^recarious  subsistence.  During  the  summer  and  autumn  they  are  busily 
occupied  in  fishing  for  salmon,  and  collecting  their  winter  store  of  roots.  In  the  win- 
ter they  hunt  the  deer  on  snow-shoes  over  the  plains,  and  towards  spring  cross  the 
mountains  to  the  Missouri,  for  the  purpose  of  trafficing  for  buffiilo  robes.  The  incon- 
veniences  of  that  comfortless   life  are   increased  by  frequent  encounters  with   their 


enemies  from  the  west,  who  drive  them  over  the  mountains  with  the  loss  of  their  horses, 
and  sometimes  tlie  lives  of  many  of  the  nation.  Though  originally  the  same  people, 
their  dialect  varies  very  jierceptibly  from  that  of  the  Tushepaws;  their  treatment  of  us 
differed  much  from  the  kind  and  disinterested  services  of  the  Shoshonees  (Snakes);  they 
are  indeed  selfish  and  avaricious ;  they  part  very  reluctantly  with  every  article  of  food 
or  clothing ;  and  while  they  expect  a  recomjDense  for  every  service,  however  small,  do 
not  concern  themselves  about  reciprocating  any  presents  we  may  give  them.  They  are 
generally  healthy — the'  only  disorders,  which  we  have  had  occasion  to  remark,  being 
of  a  scrofulous  kind,  and  for  these,  as  well  as  for  the  amusement  of  those  who  are  in 
good  health,  hot  and  cold  bathing  is  very  commonly  used.  The  soil  of  these  prairies 
is  of  a  light  yellow  clay,  intermixed  with  small,  smooth  grass ;  it  is  barren,  and  pro- 
duces little  more  than  a  bearded  grass  about  three  inches  high,  and  a  prickly  pear, 
wdiieh  we  now  found  three  species."  It  is  very  evident  that  these  gentlemen  were  not 
a.ct|uainted  with  the  attributes  of  the  succulent  bunch  grass,  the  stockman's  friend,  nor 
of  the  soil,  for  the  country  they  denominated  "barren"  is  now  producing  thirty  bushels 
of  wheat  to  the  acre  without  any  irrigation  or  fertilizing  of  any  kind. 

On  the  fifteenth  of  June  an  effort  was  made  to  cross  the  Bitterroot  mountains,  but 
it  was  unsuccessful,  and  not  until  the  thirtieth  were  the  mountains  safely  passed. 
On  the  fourth  of  July  the  comjmny  separated  into  two  parties,  one  of  them  under  Cap- 
tain Lewis  striking  across  the  mountains  to  the  Missouri,  down  which  it  passed,  ex- 
ploring the  larger  tributaries  and  learning  much  of  the  geography  of  Montana ;  the 
other  was  led  by  Clarke  to  the  headwater's  of  the  Yellowstone,  down  which  it  passed 
to  the  Missouri,  uniting  with  the  first  party  some  distance  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone  on  the  twelfth  of  August.  They  then  continued  down  the  stream,  arriv- 
ing at  St.  Louis  September  25,  1806,  having  been  gone  more  than  two  years,  and  bav- 
ins: achieved  honor  for  themselves  and  rendered  inestimable  services  to  their  government. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


THE    ASTORIA    ENTERPRISE. 

The  Northwest  Company  Establishes  a  Post  on  Eraser  Lake     Result  of  the   Journey  of  Lewis  and  Clarke— Fort 
Henry  Built  by  Americans  on  Snake   River  -Ore^anization  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company     Canadian  Voyageurs 
Astoria  Founded     Sad  Fate  of  the  Tonquin     Terrible  Sufferings  of  Hunt's  Party —Success  of  the  Business  in 
1813     McDougal  Sells  the  Property  to  the  Northwest   Company     The  Other  Parties  Return  to  the  Atlantic 
Coast. 

When  (Jreat  Britain  was  officially  notified  that  an  expedition  was  about  to  l)e 
dispatched  by  the  United  States  government  to  explore  that  much-claimed  i-egiou  lying 
to  the  west  of  the  Mississippi,  much  anxiety  was  felt,  especially  by  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany of  Montreal,  whose  traders  were  operating  farther  west  and  south  than  were  the 
«'ini)loyees  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.     Tliey  could  not  be   expected   to  submit 


without  a  struggle  to  the  loss  of  so  vast  a  territory  in  which  to  prosecute  their  peculiar 
industry.  The  line  of  division  west  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  was  undefined,  and  the 
extent  of  territory  to  be  occupied  in  the  future  by  England  and  America  depended 
largely  upon  the  actual  occupancy  by  the  contending  parties.  The  Northwest  Com- 
pany consequently,  in  1804,  dispatched  a  trusted  agent  named  Laroque,  in  command 
of  a  party,  with  instructions  to  establish  trading  posts  on  the  Columbia.  Laroque 
failed  utterly  to  accomplish  the  purpose  of  his  journey,  since  circumstances  conspired 
to  prevent  him  from  progressing  beyond  the  Missouri  river  in  the  Mandan  country. 
The  next  year  Simon  Fraser  left  the  company's  headquarters  at  Fort  Chipewyan,  and 
following  the  course  pursued  thirteen  years  before  by  Mackenzie,  reached  Fraser  lake, 
where  he  founded  a  trading  post.  This  post  of  the  Northwest  Company  was  the  first 
establishment  made  by  Englishmen  or  Americans  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and 
lies  one  hundred  miles  north  of  the  international  line  subsequently  established.  The 
name  New  Caledonia  was  bestow^ed  upon  that  region,  which  was  considered  to  lie  north 
of  the  country  known  as  Oregon. 

The  return  of  Lewis  and  Clarke  was  the  cause  of  great  rejoicing  in  the  United 
States.  Mr.  Jefferson  says  :  "  Never  did  a  similar  event  excite  more  joy  throughout 
the  United  States.  The  humblest  of  its  citizens  had  taken  a  lively  interest  in  the  issue 
of  this  journey,  and  looked  forward  with  impatience  to  the  information  it  would  furnish. 
Their  anxieties,  too,  for  the  safety  of  the  corps  had  been  kept  in  a  state  of  excitement 
by  lugubrious  rumors,  circulated  from  time  to  time  on  uncertain  authorities,  and 
uncontradicted  by  letters,  or  other  direct  information,  from  the  time  they  had  left  the 
Mandan  towns,  on  their  ascent  up  the  river  in  April  of  the  preceding  year,  1805, 
until  their  actual  return  to  St.  Louis."  -Captain  Lewis  was  soon  after  his  return  ap- 
pointed governor  of  Louisiana,  wath  which  his  journey  had  rendered  him  more  familiar 
than  any  other  man  except  his  associate ;  and  Captain  Clarke  was  ap2:)ointed  general  of 
militia  of  the  same  territory  and  agent  for  Indian  affairs  in  that  vast  region  he  had 
explored.  During  a  period  of  temporary  mental  derangement  Captain  Lewis  died  by 
his  own  hand,  in  September,  1809,  before  he  had  fully  completed  his  narrative  of  the 
journey.  The  history  of  the  expedition  was  prepared  from  his  manuscript  under  the 
direction  of  -Captain  Clarke  and  was  first  published  in  1814.  The  general  details, 
however,  were  spread  throughout  the  country  immediately  upon  their  return,  especially 
on  the  frontier.  During  their  absence  other  exploring  parties  were  traversing  Louis- 
iana in  various  directions  in  search  of  information  for  the  government.  Lieutenant 
Pike  ascended  the  Mississippi  to  its  headwaters  in  1805,  and  the  following  year  jour- 
neyed southwestward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  to  the  sources  of  the  Arkansas, 
Red  and  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte.  At  the  same  time  Dunbar,  Hunter  and  Sibley  explored 
Red  river  and  its  companion  streams.  These  explorations  served  to  greatly  stimulate 
the  fur  trade  carried  on  from  St.  Louis  and  Macinaw,  as  well  as  to  strengthen  the 
government  in  its  purpose  of  adhering  to  its  right  to  Louisiana,  acquired  by  the 
tripple  method  of  purchase,  discovery  and  exploration.  To  these  was  soon  added  the 
fourth  and  most  important — occupation. 

One  of  the  first  results  of  the  expedition  was  the  organization  of  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company,  in  1808,  with  headquarters  at  St.  Louis.  Trading  posts  were  established  on 
the  affluents  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  and  that  same  year  INIr.  Henry,  one  of 


Walling    Lith   Portlamo-Or 


Court  House, Jac so 
Erete 


«.LE, Jackson  County. 
.D.I8B3. 


OREGON.  93 

the  agents  of  the  coiiii>any,  crossed  the  mountains  and  founded  Fort  Henry  on  the 
headwaters  of  Lewis  or  Snake  river,  being  the  first  American  establishment  west  of  the 
Rocky  mountains.  The  first  effort  to  occupy  the  mouth  of  the  Cohimbia  was  made  by 
the  captain  of  one  of  the  American  vessels  trading  in  the  Pacific,  whose  name  is 
variously  given  by  historians  as  T.  Winship,  Nathaniel  Winship,  and  Captain  Smith. 
In  1810  this  gentleman  built  a  small  house  for  trading  purposes  at  Oak  Point,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Columbia  some  sixty  miles  above  its  mouth,  far  enough  up  the 
stream  to  meet  even  the  requirements  of  Captain  Vancouver's  idea  of  what  constituted 
a  river. 

During  the  first  decade  of  the  nineteenth  century  American  fishing  and  trading 
vessels  crowded  the  Pacific,  while  other  nations  were  not  entirely  unrepresented.  The 
fur  trade  developed  into  a  great  industry,  being  conducted  by  them  in  the  most  prac- 
tical manner.  All  furs  collected  by  the  Russian  American  Trading  Company  were 
sent  to  China  or  Russia  by  land  from  Kamtchatka,  since  their  vessels  were  not  granted 
the  privilege  of  entering  Chinese  ports.  It  was  this  fact  and  because  England  had 
granted  to  monopolies  the  control  of  her  Pacific  commerce,  that  the  fur  trade  by  sea 
was  conducted  chiefly  by  Americans.  That  this  condition  of  affairs  should  be  especially 
distasteful  to  the  subjects  of  Great  Britain  is  natural.  They  looked  upon  the  enter- 
prise and  success  of  these  "  Yankee  adventurers  "  with  jealous  eyes,  nor  were  they 
willing  to  give  them  the  least  credit  for  their  skill  as  navigators  or  energy  as  trades- 
men. Because  they  conducted  the  details  of  their  traffic  in  such  a  way  as  to  render  it 
highly  successful,  they  were  classed  by  the  English  traders  as  adventurers,  though  often 
the  representatives  of  wealthy  and  substantial  business  houses.  Archibald  Campbell 
thus  contemptuously  reviews  their  method  of  carrying  on  the  Pacific  commerce : 
"  These  adventurers  set  out  on  the  voyage  with  a  few  trinkets  of  very  little  value.  In 
the  Southern  Pacific,  they  pick  up  a  few  seal  skins,  and  perhaps  a  few  butts  of  oil ;  at 
the  Gallipagos,  they  lay  in  turtle,  of  which  they  preserve  the  shells  ;  at  Valparaiso  they 
raise  a  few  dollars  in  exchange  for  European  articles ;  at  Nootka,  and  other  parts  of 
the  northwest  coast,  they  traffic  with  the  natives  for  furs,  which,  when  winter  com- 
mences, they  carry  to  the  Sandwich  islands,  to  dry  and  preserve  from  vermin  ;  here 
they  leave  their  OAvn  people  to  take  care  of  them,  and,  in  the  spring,  embark,  in  lieu, 
the  natives  of  the  islands,  to  assist  in  navigating  to  the  northwest  coast  in  search  of 
more  skins.  The  remainder  of  the  cargo  is  then  made  up  of  sandal,  which  grows 
abundantly  in  the  woods  of  Atooi  and  Owyhee  (Hawaii),  of  tortoise  shells,  sharks' 
fins,  and  pearls  of  an  inferior  kind,  all  of  which  are  acceptable  in  the  China  market; 
and  with  these  and  their  dollars  they  purchase  cargoes  of  teas,  silks  and  nankins,  and 
thus  complete  their  voyage  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  years." 

This  may  be  considered  a  correct  statement  of  the  general  manner  of  conducting 
the  trade  by  Americans,  with  the  exception  of  the  "  few  trinkets  "  slur,  for  the  majority 
of  vessels,  which  were  large  and  valuable  ones,  took  out  with  them  (piite  extensive 
cargoes  of  English,  American  and  other  manufactured  goods  and  products,  with  which 
they  supj)lied  the  Spanish  and  Russian  settlements,  the  lattei-  in  particular  relying 
almost  wholly  upon  the  Americans  for  their  supplies  of  ammunition,  sugar,  spirits  and 
manufactured  articles.  That  a  large  {iroportion  of  furs  procured  from  the  natives  were 
paid  for  in  "trinkets"  is  true,  liut    this   practice  was  as  much   indulged  in  by  English 


94  OREGON. 

traders  on  the  Atlnntic  side  as  by  Americans  on  the  Pacific,  and  such  articles  have 
alwaj's  in  every  Umd  and  by  every  nation  been  deemed  a  valuable  consideration  in 
dealing  with  uncivilized  races.  The  Americans  are  deserving  of  much  credit  for  their 
economical,  energetic  and  highly  practical  method  of  conducting  their  commercial 
ventures  in  the  Pacific. 

In  one  particular,  however,  some  of  these  independent  traders,  who  might,  per- 
haps, merit  the  contemptuous  title  of  adventurers  bestowed  upon  them  all  by  their 
rivals,  were  guilty  of  conduct  very  reprehensible  when  viewed  from  a  certain  stand- 
point. Caring  only  for  present  profits  and  heedless  of  the  effect  of  their  conduct  upon 
the  future  of  their  trade,  they  supplied  the  Indians  with  whisky  and  fire-arms. 
Upon  the  first  glance  it  would  seem  that,  as  the  Indians  were  chiefly  depended  upon  to 
provide  the  furs,  any  addition  made  to  their  facilities  for  accomplishing  this  would  be 
beneficial  to  the  business  and  that  the  giving  of  guns  to  them  would  result  in  an  in- 
crease of  the  trade  ;  but  the  opposite  was  the  case.  Irving  says :  "  In  this  way  several 
fierce  tribes  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Kussiau  posts,  or  within  range  of  their  trading  ex- 
cursions, were  furnished  with  deadly  means  of  warfare,  and  rendered  troublesome  and 
dangerous  neighbors."  The  fact  is  that  the  Russian  intercourse  with  the  natives  was 
often  marked  by  conduct  so  illiberal  and  heartlessly  cruel  that  it  is  no  wonder  they 
objected  to  their  victims  being  supplied  with  means  of  asserting  their  rights.  Repre- 
sentations were  made  by  the  Russian  government  to  the  United  States  of  this  objection- 
able conduct  of  American  traders,  but  since  no  law  or  treaty  was  infringed  the  govern- 
ment could  do  nothing.  It,  however,  applied  to  John  Jacob  Astor,  a  merchant  of  New 
York,  who  had  long  been  engaged  in  the  fur  trade  about  the  lakes  and  headwaters  of 
the  Mississippi,  to  see  if  he  could  not  suggest  a  remedy. 

Mr.  Astor  conceived  the  idea  of  establishing  a  post  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
from  which  the  Russian  traders  could  be  supjilied  annually  by  a  vessel  sent  out  from 
New  York,  and  which  would  be  the  headquarters  for  a  large  trade  with  the  interior. 
By  this  systematic  conduct  of  the  business  he  expected  to  supersede  the  independent 
traders,  remove  the  cause  of  irritation  to  Russia,  and  found  permanent  establishments 
of  the  United  States  along  the  Columbia.  Mr.  Astor  imparted  his  idea  to  the  presi- 
dent and  cabinet,  by  whom  it  was  heartily  endorsed,  and  he  was  assured  that  all  the 
support  and  encouragement  would  be  his  which  the  government  could  properly  offer. 
President  Jefferson  had,  as  we  have  seen,  always  been  a  warm  advocate  of  American 
supremacy  in  this  region,  and  in  a  letter  written  in  later  years  to  Mr.  Astor,  said :  "  I 
considered,  as  a  great  public  acquisition,  the  commencement  of  a  settlement  on  that 
part  of  the  western  coast  of  America,  and  looked  forward  with  gratification  to  the  time 
when  its  descendants  should  have  spread  themselves  through  the  whole  length  of  that 
coast,  covering  it  with  free  and  independent  Americans,  unconnected  with  us  but  by 
the  ties  of  blood  and  interest,  and  enjoying  like  us  the  rights  of  self-government." 
Grand  as  was  that  great  statesman's  conception  of  the  destiny  of  this  coast,  it  is  trans- 
cended by  actual,  living  reality.  Not  only  the  "  ties  of  blood  and  interest,"  but  of 
national  union  and  loyal  brotherhood,  bind  together  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts, 
while  the  great  interior  wilderness  has  now  become  more  potent  as  a  bond  of  union  to 
hold  them  together,  than  it  then  was  as  a  barrier  to  keep  them  apart. 


OREGON.  95 

Mr.  Astor  associated  with  himself  as  managing  partners  .several  experienced  men, 
some  of  whom  had  formerly  been  connected  with  the  Northwest  Company.  This  was 
a  very  unwise,  and,  as  it  afterwards  proved,  an  unfortunate  step.  These  men  were 
thoroughly  competent  to  manage  the  details  of  the  business,  being  energetic  and  able 
men  and  completely  familiar  with  the  management  of  the  successful  English  company  ; 
but  they  were  subjects  of  Great  Britain,  their  interests  and  instincis  were  British,  and 
in  forming  an  American  settlement  none  but  Americans  should  have  been  i)laced  in 
command.  AVashingtou's  injunction  to  "put  none  but  Americans  on  guard,"  should 
have  been  borne  in  mind.  These  men  made  no  pretense  of  Americanizing  themselves 
or  transferring  their  allegiance ;  on  the  contrary  they  took  the  precaution  to  ijrovide 
tliemselves  before  leaving  Canada  with  proofs  of  their  British  citizenship,  to  be  used 
for  their  advantage  in  case  of  future  difficulties  between  the  two  nations.  These  were 
Alexander  McKay,  who  had  accompanied  Mackenzie  on  both  of  his  journeys,  Duncan 
^IcDougal,  David  and  Robert  Stuai't,  and  Donald  McKenzie.  Wilson  Price  Hunt,  of 
New  Jersey,  the  only  American  at  first  interested  as  a  partner,  was  given  the  chief 
direction  of  the  enterprise  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Mr.  Astor  owned  a  half  interest  in 
tlie  enterprise  and  furnished  the  capital,  while  the  other  half  was  divided  among  the 
four  partners,  who  managed  the  details  of  the  work  in  the  field.  These  gentlemen  in- 
corporated as  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  with  Mr.  Astor  as  president. 

On  the  second  of  August,  1810,  the  ship  Tonquin  sailed  for  the  mouth  of  the 
Cohiinljia.  She  carried  ten  guns,  had  a  crew  of  twenty  men  and  was  under  the  com- 
mand of  Jonathan  Thorn,  a  lieutenant  of  the  United  States  navy,  on  leave  of  absence. 
She  carried  a  large  cargo  of  supplies  and  merchandize  for  trading  with  the  natives, 
the  frame  of  a  small  schooner  designed  for  use  along  the  coast,  and  seeds  and  imple- 
ments for  the  cultivation  of  the  soil.  In  tlie  Tonquin  sailed  four  of  the  partners, 
McKay,  McDougal,  David  Stuart  and  Rol)ert  Stuart,  twelve  clerks,  several  artisans 
and  thirteen  Canadian  voyageurs. 

The  voyajreurs  wei'e  a  special  outgrowtli  of  the  fur  trade  and  are  deserving  of 
more  than  a  passing  notice.  Irving  thus  describes  them:  "The  voyageurs  may  be  said 
to  have  sprung  up  out  of  the  fur  trade,  having  originally  been  employed  by  the  early 
Frencli  merchants  in  their  trading  expeditions  tlirough  the  labyrinth  of  rivers  and 
lakes  of  the  boundless  interior.  In  the  intervals  of  their  long,  arduous,  and  lal)orious 
expeditions  they  were  wont  to  pass  their  time  in  idleness  and  revelry  about  the  trading 
])Osts  or  settlements  :  squandering  their  hard  earnings  in  Iieedless  conviviality,  and  ri- 
valling their  neighbors,  the  Indians,  in  indolent  indulgence  and  an  imprudent  disre- 
gard of  the  morrow.  M^hen  Canada  passed  under  British  domination,  and  the  old 
French  trading  houses  were  broken  up,  the  voyageurs  were  for  a  time  disheartened  and 
disconsolate,  and  with  difficulty  could  reconcile  themselves  to  theserviceof  the  newcomers, 
so  different  in  habits,  manners  and  language  from  their  former  employers.  By  degrees, 
however,  they  became  accustomed  to  the  change,  and  at  length  came  to  consider  the 
British  fur  traders,  and  especially  the  members  of  the  Northwest  Company,  as  the  le- 
gitimate lords  of  creation.  The  dress  of  these  people  is  generally  half  civilized, 
half  savage.  They  wear  a  capot  or  surcoat,  made  of  a  blanket,  a  striped  cotton  shirt, 
cloth  trowsers,  or  leathern  leggings,  moccasins  of  deer  skin,  and  a  l)elt  of  variegated 
worsted,  from    which    are  suspended   the  knife,  tobacco   pouch,  and  other  implements. 


96  OREGON. 

Their  language  is  of  the  same  piebald  eliai-actei-,  being  a  French  patois,  embroidered 
with  Indian  and  English  words  and  phrases.  The  lives  of  the  voyageurs  are  passed 
in  wild  and  extensive  rovings.  They  are  generally  of  French  descent  and  inherit 
much  of  the  gaiety  and  lightness  of  heart  of  their  ancestors,  being  full  of  anecdote 
and  song,  and  ever  ready  for  the  dance.  Their  natural  good  will  is  probably  height- 
ened by  a  community  of  adventure  and  hardship  in  their  precarious  and  wandering 
life.  They  are  dexterous  boatmen,  vigorous  and  adroit  with  the  oar  and  paddle,  and 
will  row  from  morning  until  night  without  a  murmur.  The  steersman  often  sings  an 
old  traditionary  French  song,  with  some  regular  burden  in  which  they  all  join,  keep- 
ing time  with  their  oars.  In  the  course  of  years  they  will  gradually  disappear ;  their 
songs  will  die  away  like  the  echoes  they  once  awakened,  and  the  Canadian  voyageurs 
will  become  a  forgotten  race,  or  remembered  among  the  poetical  images  of  past  times 
and  as  themes  for  local  and  romantic  associations." 

The  Tonquin  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  on  the  twenty-second  of  [Nlarcli, 
1811,  much  jealousy  and  ill-feeling  having  been  engendered  during  the  voyage  be- 
tween the  commander  and  the  Scotch  partners.  Captain  Thorn  was  a  martinet,  a 
strict  disciplinarian,  with  a  high  opinion  of  the  power  and  dignity  of  the  commander 
of  a  vessel.  He  was  headstrong  and  stubborn  in  the  extreme.  When  the  ship  arrived 
at  the  river  the  bar  was  very  rough,  and  the  captain  feared  to  enter  until  the  location 
of  the  channel  was  ascertained.  He  ordered  Mr.  Fox,  the  chief  mate,  to  take  one 
seaman  and  three  Canadians  in  a  whale  boat  and  explore  the  channel,  and  though  the 
mate  protested  that  it  was  certain  death  to  attempt  it,  he  insisted  upon  obedience  to  his 
orders.  The  boat  left  the  ship  and  was  soon  swallowed  up  in  the  angry  billows.  The 
next  dav  he  sent  out  another  crew  to  seek  the  channel,  and  their  boat  was  swept  out  to 
sea  bv  the  tide  and  current,  only  one  of  the  crew  finally  reaching  land.  The  vessel 
succeeded  in  getting  just  inside  of  the  bar  when  darkness  came  on  and  she  was  com- 
pelled to  cast  anchor  for  the  night,  while  the  ebbing  tide  threatened  to  sweep  her  from 
her  precarious  hold  upon  the  sand  and  swamp  her  amid  the  breakers.  Irving  says  : 
"  The  wind  whistled,  the  sea  roared,  the  gloom  was  only  broken  by  the  ghastly  glare 
of  the  foaming  breakers,  the  minds  of  the  seamen  were  full  of  dreary  apprehensions, 
and  some  of  them  fancied  they  heard  the  cries  of  their  lost  comrades  mingling  with 
the  upi-oar  of  the  elements." 

In  the  morning  the  Tonquin  passed  safely  into  the  river  and  came  to  anchor  in  a 
secure  harbor.  On  the  twelfth  of  April,  a  point  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  which 
Broughton  had  called  Point  George  having  been  selected,  the  erection  of  a  fort  and 
buildings  was  begun ;  and  on  that  spot,  which  was  then  christened  Astoria  in  honor  of 
the  projector  of  the  enterprise,  now  stands  one  of  the  most  important  commercial  and 
manufacturing  cities  of  the  Pacific  coast.  After  much  delay  in  preparing  a  place  for 
the  reception  of  the  goods  and  in  landing  those  to  be  left  at  Astoria,  during  which  the 
captain  and  partners  constantly  wrangled  about  their  authority,  and  before  the  fort 
was  completed,  the  Tonquin  sailed, on  the  fifth  of  June,  to  engage  in  trade  with  the  na- 
tives along  the  northern  coast,  and  eventually  to  reach  the  Russian  settlements  in 
Alaska,  with  the  hope  of  opening  a  friendly  communication  with  them. 

The  Tonquin  anchored  in  a  small  harbor  on  Vancouver  island,  and  Alexander 
McKay,  one  of  the  partners,  landed  upon  the  island.     During  his  absence  the   vessel 


i 


OREGON.  97 

wa<  s^un'oiuided  by  a  host  of  savages  in  their  canoes,  who  soou  swarmed  upon  the  decks. 
They  were  eager  to  trade,  but  had  evidently  had  considerable  experience  in  dealing 
Avith  the  whites  and  were  well  posted  upon  the  value  of  their  furs,  for  they  resolutely 
demanded  a  higher  price  than  Captain  Thorn  was  willing  to  pay.  Provoked  beyond 
measure  at  their  stubbornness,  Thorn  refused  to  deal  with  them,  whereupon  they  be- 
came exceedingly  insolent.  The  captain  at  last  completely  tost  his  temper,  and  seizing 
the  old  chief,  Nookamis,  who  was  following  him  about  and  taunting  him  with  his 
stinginess,  rubbed  in  his  face  an  otter  skin  he  had  been  endeavoring  to  sell.  He  then 
ordered  the  whole  band  to  leave  the  ship  and  added  blows  to  enforce  his  command. 
The  tragic  ending  of  this  adventure  is  thus  related  by  Irving  : 

"  When  Mr.  M'Kay  returned  on  board,  the  interpreter  related  what  had  passed, 
and  begged  him  to  prevail  upon  the  captain  to  make  sail,  as,  from  his  knowledge  of 
the  temj^er  and  pride  of  the  people  of  the  jjlace,  he  was  sure  they  would  resent  the 
indignity  offered  to  one  of  their  chiefs.  Mr.  M'Kay,  who  himself  possessed  some  ex- 
perience of  Indian  character,  went  to  the  captain,  who  was  still  pacing  the  deck  in 
moody  humor,  rejiresented  the  danger  to  which  his  hasty  act  had  exposed  the  vessel, 
and  urged  upon  him  to  weigh  anchor  The  captain  made  light  of  his  councils,  and 
pointed  to  his  cannon  and  fire-arms  as  a  sufficient  safe-guard  against  naked  savages. 
Further  remonstrances  only  ^^rovoked  taunting  replies  and  sharp  altercations.  The 
day  passed  away  without  any  signs  of  hostility,  and  at  night  the  caj)tain  retired,  as 
usual,  to  his  cabin,  taking  no  more  than  the  usual  precautions.  On  the  following 
morning,  at  day -break,  while  the  captain  and  Mr.  M'Kay  were  yet  asleej),  a  canoe  came 
alongside  in  which  were  twenty  Indians,  commanded  by  young  Shewish.  They  were 
unarmed,  their  aspect  and  demeanor  friendly,  and  they  held  up  otter  skins,  and  made 
signs  indicative  of  a  wish  to  trade.  The  caution  enjoined  by  Mr.  Astor  in  respect  to 
the  admission  of  Indians  on  board  of  the  ship,  had  been  neglected  for  some  time  past, 
and  the  officer  of  the  watch,  perceiving  those  in  the  canoes  to  be  without  weapons,  and 
having  received  no  orders  to  the  contrary,  readily  permitted  them  to  mount  the  deck. 
Another  canoe  soon  succeeded,  the  crew  of  which  was  likewise  admitted.  In  a  little 
while  other  canoes  came  off,  and  Indians  were  soon  clambering  into  the  vessel  on  all 
sides. 

"  The  officer  of  the  watch  now  felt  alarmed,  and  called  to  C'a])tain  Thorn  and  Mr. 
M'Kay.  By  the  time  they  came  on  deck,  it  was  thronged  with  Indians.  The  inter- 
))reter  noticed  to  Mr.  M'Kay  that  many  of  the  natives  wore  short  mantles  of  skins, 
and  intimated  a  suspicion  that  they  were  secretly  armed.  Mr.  M'Kay  urged  the  cap- 
tain to  clear  the  ship  and  get  under  way.  He  again  made  light  of  the  advice  ;  but 
the  augmented  swarm  of  canoes  about  the  ship,  and  the  numbers  still  j)utting  off  from 
shore,  at  length  awakened  his  distrust,  and  he  ordered  some  of  the  crew  to  weigh  an- 
cIkii'.  while  some  were  sent  aloft  to  make  sail.  The  Indians  now  offered  to  trade  with 
I  he  caj)tain  on  his  own  terms,  prompted,  apparently,  by  the  approaching  departure  of 
tlie  ship.  ^Vccordingly,  a  hurried  trade  was  commenced.  The  main  articles  sought 
by  the  savages  in  barter,  were  knives;  as  fast  as  some  were  supplied  they  moved  off 
and  others  succeeded.  By  degrees  they  were  thus  distributed  about  the  deck,  and  all 
with  weapons.  The  anchor  was  now  nearly  up,  the  sails  were  loose,  and  the  cajitain, 
in  a  loud  and  ]icremptin-y  tone,  ordered  the  ship  to  be  cleared.      In  an  instant  a  signal 


veil  wa8  given  ;  it  Avas  echoed  on  every  .side,  knives  and  war  clnbs  were  brandished  in 
every  direction,  and  the  savages  rushed  upon  their  marked  victims. 

"  The  first  that  fell  was  Mr.  Lewis,  the  shij/s  clerk.  He  was  leaning,  with  folded 
arms,  over  a  bale  of  blankets,  engaged  in  bargaining,  when  he  received  a  deadly  stab 
in  the  back,  and  fell  down  the  comj^anionway.  Mr.  M'Kay,  who  was  seated  on  the 
taffrail,  sprang  to  his  feet,  but  was  instantly  knocked  down  with  a  war-club  and  flung 
backwards  into  the  sea,  where  he  was  dispatched  by  the  women  in  the  canoes.  In  the 
meantime,  Captain  Thorn  made  desperate  fight  against  fearful  odds.  He  was  a  pow- 
erful as  well  as  resolute  man,  but  he  had  come  upon  deck  Avithout  weapons.  Shewish, 
the  young  chief,  singled  him  out  as  his  peculiar  prey,  and  rushed  upon  him  at  the  first 
outbreak.  The  captain  had  barely  time  to  draw  a  clasp-knife,  with  one  blow  of  which 
he  laid  the  young  savage  dead  at  liis  feet.  Several  of  the  stoutest  followers  of  Shewish 
now  set  upon  him.  He  defended  himself  vigorously,  dealing  crippling  blows  to  right 
and  left,  and  strewing  the  quarterdeck  with  the  slain  and  wounded.  His  object  was 
to  fight  his  way  to  the  cabin,  where  there  were  fire-arms  ;  but  he  was  hemmed  in  with 
foes,  covered  with  wounds,  and  faint  with  loss  of  blood.  For  an  instant  he  leaned  upon 
the  tiller  wheel,  when  a  blow  from  behind,  with  a  war-club,  felled  him  to  the  deck, 
where  he  was  disjmtched  with  knives  and  thrown  overboard. 

"  While  this  was  transacting  upon  the  quarterdeck,  a  chance  medley  fight  was 
going  on  throughout  the  ship.  The  crew  fought  desperately  with  knives,  handspikes 
and  whatever  weapons  they  could  seize  upon  in  the  moment  of  surprise.  They  were 
soon,  however,  overpowered  by  numbers  and  mercilessly  butchered.  As  to  the  seven 
who  had  been  sent  aloft  to  make  sail,  they  contemplated  with  horror  the  carnage  that 
was  going  on  below.  Being  destitute  of  weapons,  they  let  themselves  down  by  the 
running  rigging,  in  hopes  of  getting  between  decks.  One  fell  in  the  attempt,  and  was 
instantly  dispatched  ;  another  received  a  death-blow  in  the  back  as  he  was  descending; 
a  third,  Stephen  Weekes,  the  armorer,  was  mortally  wounded  as  he  was  getting  down 
the  hatchway.  The  remaining  four  made  good  their  retreat  into  the  cabin,  where  they 
found  Mr.  Lewis  still  alive,  though  mortally  wounded.  Barricading  the  cabin  door, 
they  broke  holes  through  the  companionway,  and,  with  muskets  and  ammunition  which 
were  at  hand,  opened  a  brisk  fire  that  soon  cleared  the  deck.  Thus  far  the  Indian 
interpreter,  from  whom  these  particulars  are  derived,  had  been  an  eye-witness  of  the 
deadly  conflict.  He  had  taken  no  part  in  it  and  had  been  spared  by  the  natives  as 
being  of  their  race.  In  the  confusion  of  the  moment  he  took  refuge  with  the  rest,  in 
the  canoes.  The  survivors  of  the  crew  now  sallied  forth  and  discharged  some  of 
the  deck  guns,  which  did  great  execution  among  the  canoes  and  drove  all  the  savages 
to  shore. 

"For  the  remainder  of  the  day  no  one  ventured  to  put  off'  to  the  ship,  deterred  by 
the  effects  of  the  firearms.  The  night  passed  away  without  any  further  attempt  on 
the  part  of  the  natives.  When  the  day  dawned  the  Tonquin  still  lay  at  anchor  in  the 
bay,  her  sails  all  loose  and  flapping  in  the  wind,  and  no  one  apparently  on  board  of 
her.  After  a  time,  some  of  the  canoes  ventured  forth  to  reconnoitre,  taking  with  them 
the  interpreter.  They  paddled  about  her,  keeping  cautiously  at  a  distance,  but  grow- 
ing more  and  more  emboldened  at  seeing  her  quiet  and  lifeless.  One  man  at  length 
made  his  appearance  on  the  deck  and  was  recognized  by  the  interpreter  as  Mr.  Lewis. 


He  made  friendly  signs  and  invited  them  on  board.  It  was  long  before  they  ventured 
to  comply.  Those  who  mounted  the  deck  met  with  no  opposition  ;  no  one  was  to  be 
seen  on  board,  for  Mr.  Lewis,  after  inviting  them,  had  disappeai-ed.  Other  canoes  now 
pressed  forward  to  board  the  prize ;  the  decks  were  soon  crowded  and  the  sides  cov- 
ered with  clambering  savages,  all  intent  on  plunder.  In  the  midst  of  their  eagerness 
and  exultation,  the  ship  blew  np  with  a  tremendous  explosion.  Arms,  legs  and  muti- 
lated bodies  were  blown  into  the  air,  and  dreadful  havoc  was  made  in  the  surrounding 
canoes.  The  interpreter  was  in  the  main  chains  at  the  time  of  the  explosion,  and  wa.s 
thrown  unhurt  into  the  water,  where  he  succeeded  in  getting  into  one  of  the  canoes. 
According  to  his  statement  the  bay  presented  an  awful  spectacle  after  the  catastrojihe. 
The  ship  had  disappeared,  but  the  bay  was  covered  with  fragments  of  the  wreck,  with 
shattered  canoes,  and  Indians  swimming  for  their  lives  or  struggling  in  the  agonies  of 
death  ;  while  those  who  had  escaped  the  danger  remained  aghast  and  stupefied,  or  made 
with  frantic  panic  for  the  shore.  Upwards  of  a  hundred  savages  were  destroyed  by  the 
explosion,  many  more  were  shockingly  mutilated,  and  for  days  afterwards  the  limbs 
and  bodies  of  the  slain  were  thrown  upon  the  beach. 

"The  inhabitants  of  Neweetee  were  overwhelmed  with  consternation  at  this  as- 
tounding calamity  which  had  burst  upon  them  in  the  very  moment  of  triumph.  The 
warriors  sat  mute  and  mournful,  while  the  women  filled  the  air  with  loud  lamentations. 
Their  weeping  and  wailing,  however,  was  suddenly  changed  into  yells  of  fury  at  the 
sight  of  four  unfortunate  white  men  brought  captive  into  the  village.  They  had  been 
driven  on  shore  in  one  of  the  ship's  boats,  and  taken  at  some  distance  along  the  coast. 
The  interpreter  was  permitted  to  converse  with  them.  They  proved  to  be  the  four 
brave  fellows  who  had  made  such  desperate  defense  from  the  cabin.  The  interpreter 
gathered  from  them  some  of  the  particulars  already  related.  They  told  him  further 
that,  after  they  had  beaten  off  the  enemy,  and  cleared  the  ship,  Lewis  advised  that 
they  should  slip  the  cable  and  endeavor  to  get  to  sea.  They  declined  to  take  his  advice, 
alleging  that  the  wind  set  too  strongly  into  the  bay,  and  would  drive  them  on  .^hore. 
They  resolved,  as  soon  as  it  was  dark,  to  put  off  quietly  in  the  ship's  boat,  which  they 
would  be  able  to  do  unperceived,  and  to  coast  along  back  to  Astoria.  They  put  their 
resolution  into  effect ;  l)ut  Lewis  refused  to  accompany  them,  being  disabled  by  his 
wound,  hopeless  of  escape  and  determined  on  a  terrible  revenge.  On  the  voyage  out 
he  had  frequently  expressed  a  presentiment  that  he  should  die  by  his  own  hands — 
thinking  it  highly  probable  that  he  should  be  engaged  in  some  contests  with  the  na- 
tives, and  being  resolved,  in  case  of  extremity,  to  commit  suicide  rather  than  be  made 
a  prisoner.  He  now  declared  his  intention  to  remain  on  the  ship  until  daylight,  to  de- 
coy as  many  of  the  savages  on  board  as  possible,  then  to  set  fire  to  the  powder  maga- 
zine and  terminate  his  life  by  a  signal  act  of  vengeance.  How  well  he  succeeded  has 
been  shown.  His  companions  bade  him  a  melancholy  adieu  and  set  off  on  their  pre- 
carious expedition.  They  strove  with  might  and  main  to  get  out  of  the  bay,  but  found 
it  impossible  to  weather  a  point  of  land,  and  were  at  length  compelled  to  take  shelter 
in  a  small  cove,  where  they  hoped  to  remain  concealed  until  the  wind  should  be  more 
favorable.  Exhausted  by  fatigue  and  watching,  they  fell  into  a  sound  sleep,  and  in 
that  state  were  surprised  by  the  savages.  Better  had  it  been  for  those  unfortunate  men 
had  they  remained  with  Lewis  and  shared  his  heroic  death  ;  as  it  was.  they  perished  in 


100  ,    OREGON. 

a  more  painful  and  protracted  manner,  being  sacrificed  by  the  natives  to  the  manes  of 
their  friends  with  all  the  lingering  tortures  of  savage  cruelty.  Some  time  after  their 
death  the  interpreter,  who  had  remained  a  kind  of  j^visoner  at  large,  effected  his  escape 
and  brought  the  tragical  tidings  to  Astoria." 

Meanwhile  affairs  were  j^rogressing  at  Astoria.  On  the  fifteenth  of  July  tlie 
partners  were  astonished  by  the  appearance  in  the  river  of  a  canoe  manned  by  nine 
white  men,  who  proved  to  be  representatives  of  the  Northwest  Company,  under  the 
leadership  of  David  Thompson,  a  partner  in  that  powerful  organization.  When  the 
company  had  learned  the  year  before  of  the  projected  enterprise  of  Mr.  Astor,  it  dis- 
patched Mr.  Thompson  from  Montreal  with  a  large  party  to  hasten  across  the  conti- 
nent and  forestall  the  American  trader  by  taking  possession  of  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. Many  of  his  party  had  deserted  him,  and  now  after  ruinous  delay  and  with 
but  these  few  faithful  ones  to  aid  him,  he  had  arrived  at  the  goal  of  his  journey  too 
late  to  accom^ilish  his  purpose.  Thompson  was  received  with  great  cordiality  by  jMr. 
McDougal,  the  partner  in  charge  at  Astoria,  who  had  a  kindly  feeling  for  all  represen- 
tatives of  the  Northwest  Company ;  and  though  he  was  but  a  spy  upon  his  hosts,  he 
was  bountifully  supplied  with  provisions  for  his  return  journey.  He  set  out  upon  his 
return  to  Montreal  on  the  twenty- third  day  of  July,  bearing  a  letter  to  Mr.  Astor  tt^ll- 
ing  of  the  safe  arrival  of  the  vessel,  and  accompanied  by  a  party  of  nine,  headed  by 
David  Stuart,  who  w^ere  instructed  to  establish  a  post  on  the  uj^per  Columbia.  ^h\ 
Stuart  selected  a  spot  near  the  mouth  of  the  Okinagan  river,  and  establishing  a  post 
there  openad  trade  with  the  natives. 

On  the  second  of  October  the  schooner  was  completed  and  launched.  She  was 
named  the  Dolly,  and  was  the  third  vessel  built  on  the  Northern  Pacific  coast,  and  the  first 
in  the  Columbia  river.  A  few  days  later  half  of  Stuart's  party  returned,  having  been 
sent  back  for  the  winter  because  of  a  lack  of  jirovisions  to  subsist  them.  The  winter 
months  were  passed  without  fresh  disasters  flowing  in  ujdou  them. 

When  the  Tonquin  sailed  from  New  York  Wilson  P.  Hunt  was  preparing  to  cross 
overland  with  another  party.  He  finally  left  St.  Louis  with  a  party  of  sixty  men, 
among  whom  were  Donald  McKenzie  and  three  other  ^^artners,  Ramsey  Crooks,  Joseph 
Miller  and  Robert  McLellan.  With  them  went  John  Day,  a  noted  Kentucky  hunter, 
and  Pierre  Dorion,  a  French  half-breed,  to  act  as  an  interpreter.  The  party  arrived  at 
Fort  Henry,  on  Snake  river,  October  8,  1811.  Small  detachments  were,  from  time  to 
time,  sent  out  in  the  Rocky  mountains  to  trap  in  various  localities,  who  were  to  use 
Fort  Henry  as  a  supply  station,  and  for  concentration  with  their  furs.  The  remaining 
members  of  the  party,  after  a  temporary  halt,  moved  on  down  Snake  river  enroute  for 
the  general  rendezvous  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia ;  and  a  continued  succession  of 
hardships  and  disaster  seemed  to  follow  them.  First,  the  unfortunate  Antoine  Clappin 
was  drowned  in  passing  a  rapid,  then  famine  came  to  rob  them  of  human  instincts,  as 
they  were  led  to  the  verge  of  starvation.  They  were  finally  forced  to  separate  into 
small  detachments,  one  party  going  under  Ramsey  Crooks,  another  with  Donald  Mc- 
Kenzie for  leader,  while  a  third  remained  with  Mr.  Hunt,  hoping  by  such  division  to 
increase  their  chances  of  finally  reaching  the  Columbia. 

Once  the  parties  under  Crooks  and  Hunt  camped  with  the  narrow,  deep  waters  of 
Snake   river   only   separating   them.      The  Hunt    iwrty  had  killed  a  horse  and  were 


4^*^  / 


\ 


i\ 


%^/. 


i 


OREGON.  101 

cooking  it,  while  their  starving  companions  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream,  with  no 
means  of  crossing  it,  were  forced  to  look  on  as  they  starved.  Not  a  man  in  Mr.  Hnnt's 
camp  would  make  an  effort  to  send  them  food,  until  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Crooks,  who, 
discovering  the  condition  of  his  men  on  the  opposite  side,  called  to  the  forlorn  band  to 
start  fires  for  cooking,  that  no  time  might  be  lost  while  he  constructed  a  canoe  out  of 
skins,  in  which  to  take  meat  across  to  them.  In  vain  he  tried  to  shame  the  more  for- 
tunate into  helping  to  succor  their  fkmishing  companions,  but :  "  A  vague,  and  almost 
superstitious  terror,"  says  Irving,  "  had  infected  the  minds  of  Mr.  Hunt's  followers, 
enfeebled  and  rendered  imaginative  of  horrors  by  the  dismal  scenes  and  sufferings 
through  which  they  had  passed.  They  regarded  the  haggard  crew,  hovering  like 
spectres  of  famine  on  the  opposite  bank,  with  indefinite  feelings  of  awe  and  apprehen- 
sion, as  if  something  desperate  and  dangerous  was  to  be  feared  from  them." 

When  the  canoe  was  finished,  Mr.  Crooks  attempted  to  navigate  the  impetuous 
stream  witli  it,  but  found  his  strength  unequal  to  the  task,  and  failing  to  reach  his 
companions  on  the  o})posite  bank,  made  another  appeal  to  Hunt's  men.  Finally,  a 
Kentuckian,  named  Ben  Jones,  undertook  and  made  the  passage,  conveying  meat  to 
them,  and  then  came  back.  Irving,  in  describing  the  sad  scene,  says  :  "  A  poor  Cana- 
dian, however,  named  Jean  Baptiste  Prevost,  whom  famine  had  rendered  wild  and 
desperate,  ran  frantically  about  the  banks,  after  Jones  had  returned,  crying  out  to  Mr. 
Hunt  to  send  the  canoe  for  him,  and  take  him  from  that  horrible  region  of  famine,  de- 
claring that  otherwise  he  would  never  march  another  step,  but  would  lie  down  there 
and  die.  The  canoe  was  shortly  sent  over  again,  under  the  management  of  Joseph 
Delaunay,  with  fiirther  sup))lies.  Prevost  immediately  pressed  forward  to  embark. 
Delaunay  refused  to  admit  him,  telling  him  that  there  was  now  a  sufficient  supply  of 
meat  on  his  side  of  the  ri\er.  He  replied  that  it  was  not  cooked,  and  he  should  starve 
before  it  was  ready ;  he  implored,  therefore,  to  be  taken  where  he  could  get  something 
to  appease  his  hunger  immediately.  Finding  the  canoe  putting  ofi:'  without  him,  he 
forced  himself  aboard.  As  he  drew  near  the  opposite  shore,  and  beheld  meat  roasting 
before  the  fires,  he  jumped  up,  shouted,  clapped  his  hands,  and  danced  in  a  delirium 
of  joy,  until  he  upset  the  canoe.  The  poor  wretch  was  swept  away  by  the  current  and 
drowned,  and  it  was  with  extreme  difficulty  that  Delaunay  reached  the  shore.  !Mr. 
Hunt  now  sent  all  his  men  forward  excepting  two  or  three.  In  the  evening,  he  caused 
another  horse  to  be  killed,  and  a  canoe  to  be  made  out  of  the  skin,  in  which  he  sent 
over  a  further  supply  of  meat  to  the  opposite  party.  The  canoe  brought  back  John 
Day,  the  Kentucky  hunter,  who  came  to  join  his  former  commander  and  employer, 
]\Ir.  Crooks.  Poor  Day,  once  so  active  and  vigorous,  was  now  reduced  to  a  condition 
even  more  feeble  and  emaciated  than  his  companions.  Mr.  Crooks  had  such  a  value 
for  the  man,  on  account  of  his  past  services  and  faithful  charactei',  that  he  determined 
not  to  quit  him  ;  he  exhorted  Mr.  Hunt,  however,  to  jjroceed  forward  and  join  the 
party,  as  his  presence  was  all  important  to  the  conduct  of  the  expedition.  One  of  the 
Canadians,  Jean  Baptiste  Dubreuil,  likewise  remained  with  Mr.  Crooks." 

The  occurrences  at  this  starvation  camp  were  on  the  twentieth  of  Deceiid)i'r,  1811, 
both  parties  being  on  tlicii'  way  back  up  Snake  river  after  having  fouixi  the  descent  of 
tiiat  stream  impossible.  It  was  now  tlieii'  intention  to  stiike  across  the  couiitrv  for  tiie 
Coluiiiliia,  as  soon  as   it  was  j)raeticab]e  to  do  so.     ( )n    tlie   twcntv-tliinl  of  Deeeinlier, 


102  OREGON. 

Mr.  Hunt's  followers  crossed  to  the  west  side  of  the  stream,  where  they  were  joined  l)y 
Crooks'  men,  who  were  already  there.  The  two  parties,  when  united,  numbered  thirty- 
six  souls,  and  on  the  next  day  they  turned  from  the  river  into  a  trackless  country;  but, 
before  starting,  three  more  of  their  number  had  concluded  to  remain  among  the  sav- 
ages rather  than  face  the  hardshijjs  and  trials  that  lay  before  them.  December  28, 
1811,  the  head  waters  of  Grand  Eonde  river  were  reached,  and  the  last  day  of  that 
year  found  them  camped  in  the  valley  of  that  name.  Through  all  their  perils  and 
wanderings  since  leaving  St.  Louis,  one  woman,  the  Indian  wife  of  Pierre  Dorion,  a 
guide,  interpreter  and  trapper,  had  accompanied  them,  bringing  with  her  two  children, 
and,  as  the  party  entered  the  Grand  Ronde  valley,  she  gave  birth  to  another.  Tlie 
next  day  she  continued  the  journey  on  horseback  as  though  nothing  had  happened, 
but  the  little  stranger  only  lived  six  days. 

Mr.  Hunt,  after  halting  one  or  two  days  to  enable  his  followers  to  celebrate,  in 
their  forlorn  w^ay,  the  advent  of  a  new  year  that  had  presented  to  them  the  Grand 
Ronde  valley,  a  kind  of  winter  paradise  in  the  mountains,  continued  his  course  to  the 
west.  The  Blue  mountain  ridge  was  passed,  and  January  8,  1812,  an  Indian  village 
on  the  Umatilla  river  close  to  the  mountains  was  reached,  where  they  were  hospitably 
received.  From  there  their  route  was  down  this  stream  to  the  Columbia  river,  thence 
to  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  arriving  at  Astoria  February  15,  1812. 

Since  leaving  Fort  Henry,  October  19,  1811,  out  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  two  men 
had  been  drowned  on  Snake  river,  and  poor  Michael  Carriere,  when  exhausted,  had 
straggled  behind  in  Grand  Ronde  valley  and  was  never  heard  from  afterwards.  Ram- 
sev  Crooks,  John  Day  and  four  Canadian  voyageurs,  had  been  left  half  dead  on  Snake 
river  to  remain  in  the  Indian  country,  die,  or  reach  the  Columbia  as  they  best  could. 
Eleven  men,  among  whom  were  Donald  McKenzie,  Robert  McLellan  and  the  unfortu- 
nate John  Reed,  had  been  detached  on  Snake  river,  and  following  that  stream  until  its 
waters  mingled  with  the  Columbia,  had  reached  Astoria  a  month  in  advance  of  Mr. 
Hunt.  Mr.  Stuart,  when  returning  from  his  post  on  the  Okinagan,  during  the  first 
days  of  April,  found  Mr.  Crooks  and  John  Day  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  river 
without  w^eapons,  nearly  starved,  and  as  naked  as  when  born,  having  been  robbed  and 
stripped  by  the  Dalles  Indians.  They  had  wintered  in  the  Blue  mountains  al)out 
Grand  Ronde  valley,  and  had  reached  the  Walla  Wallas  in  the  spring,  who  had  fed, 
succored,  and  sent  them  on  their  way  rejoicing  down  the  river.  When  found,  they 
were  making  their  way  back  to  these  early  friends  of  the  Americans,  who  never  failed 
to  assist  our  people  when  in  trouble.  At  length  all  but  three  of  those  starting  from 
the  head  waters  of  Snake  river  for  Astoria  had  reached  that  place  except  the  four 
voyageurs,  and  later  they,  too,  were  found  by  a  return  party.  On  the  ninth  of  May, 
after  Mr.  Hunt's  arrival,  the  ship  Beaver,  with  reinforcements  and  supplies,  anchored 
at  Astoria,  and  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  was  in  condition  to  enter  upon  a  vigorous  fur 
gathering  campaign. 

Mr.  Hunt,  who  was  at  the  head  of  affairs,  set  out  in  July  for  Alaska  to  fulfill  the 
mission  upon  which  the  ill-fated  Tonquin  had  sailed,  and  his  departure  left  Duncan 
McDougal  in  charge.  Prior  to  this,  however,  the  various  expeditions  to  trap  waters 
and  trade  with  natives  between  the  Rocky  and  Cascade  mountains  had  started,  sixty- 
two  strong,  up  the  Columbia.     Among  the  number  was  the  unfortunate  John  Day, 


OEEGON.  103 

and,  as  tlu'  party  apiiroaclicd  the  scenes  of  his  former  sufferings  liis  mind  became 
delirious,  and  tlie  mere  sight  of  an  Indian  wouUl  throw  him  into  u  frenzy  of  passion. 
He  finally  attempted  his  own  life,  but  was  prevented  from  taking  it,  after  which  a  con- 
stant guard  was  kept  over  him.  It  was  at  length  determined  to  send  him  back  to 
Astoria,  and  being  placed  in  charge  of  two  Indians,  he  was  delivered  by  them  at  the 
fort  where  he  died  in  less  than  a  year.  His  old  compeers  ami  staunch  friends,  who 
had  shared  perils  and  privations  with  him,  were  forced  to  continue  their  journey  with 
a^  sad  memory  of  this  companion,  whose  brain  had  been  shattered  by  his  many  mis- 
fortunes. The  stream  wliich  had  witnessed  his  many  sufferings  still  bears  the  heroic 
trapper's  name. 

The  arrival  of  trappers  at  the  present  site  of  Wallnla,  on  the  twenty-eighth  of 
July,  1812,  was  the  signal  for  general  rejoicing  among  the  friendly  Walla  Wallas,  who 
greeted  them  with  bonfires,  and  a  night  dance,  in  which  they  sang  the  praises  of 
their  white  friends.  Here  the  four  expeditions  were  to  separate,  Robert  Stuart  to 
cross  the  continent  by  Hunt's  route ;  David  Stuart  to  go  up  the  Columbia  to  Okina- 
gan  ;  Donald  IMcKenzie  to  establish  a  post  in  the  Nez  Perce  country  ;  and  John  Clarke 
to  locate  one  among  the  Spokane  Indians.  Of  these  several  expeditions,  Robert  Stuart, 
with  his  party,  including  Crooks  and  McLellan,  reached  St.  Louis  eleven  months  later, 
bearing  news  to  Mr.  Astor  of  his  enterprise  on  the  Pacific  coast.  McKenzie's  opera- 
tions were  a  failure ;  David  Stuart's  success  was  equal  to  his  most  sanguine  hopes,  and 
Mr.  Clarke's  efforts  resulted  second  only  to  those  of  Mr.  Stuart. 

(_)n  the  twenty-fifth  of  ]\Iay,  1813,  Mr.  Clarke  started  from  his  post  on  the  Spo- 
kane to  reach  the  Walla  Walla,  the  place  agreed  upon  as  a  general  rendezvous,  where 
the  different  expeditions  were  to  meet  and  return  to  Astoria  with  the  furs  obtained  in 
their  operations  during  the  past  season.  On  his  way  up,  Mr.  Clarke  had  left  his 
canoes  in  charge  of  a  Palouse  chief,  living  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name, 
with  whom  he  found  them  on  his  return.  He  had  twenty-eight  horse  packs  of  furs, 
and  all  his  men  were  in  high  spirits  because  of  the  success  that  had  attended  their 
year's  work.  While  stopping  at  the  mouth  of  this  stream  to  repair  their  canoes,  in 
which  to  embark  upon  the  river,  an  incident  happened  that  cannot  well  be  passed  in 
silence. 

Mr.  Clarke  was  a  strong  disciplinarian,  something  of  an  aristocrat,  and  disjiosed  to 
inpresss  those  with  whoni  he  came  in  contact  with  the  dignity  of  liis  presence  and  per- 
son. He  Avas  in  the  habit  of  carrying  a  silver  goblet  to  drink  from,  and  its  glittering 
presence,  carefully  guarded  by  its  possessor,  became  an  object  of  strange  and  strong 
attraction  to  the  superstitious  Indians.  In  all  their  land,  no  such  wondrous  device  had 
been  seen  before.  They  talked  to  each  other  concerning  it,  watched  its  appearance, 
and  the  care  with  which  its  lucky  possessor  laid  it  away  after  using.  Possibly  it  was  a 
great  medicine,  like  the  spotted  shirt  and  the  white  (juilt  among  the  Coeur  d'Alenes,  or 
a  powerful  talisman  to  ward  off  danger  or  shield  its  owner  from  harm,  a  sort  of  ark 
near  which  the  great  Manitou  dwelt.  One  night  it  disappeared,  and  Mr.  Clarke  was 
enraged.  He  threatened  to  hang  the  first  Indian  detected  in  stealing,  and  the  next 
night  an  uiifoi-tuiiate  one  was  caught  in  the  act.  A  hasty  trial  followed,  and  the 
]irisonci'  was  condemned  to  die,  when  ^Ir.  ( 'lai-ke  made  the  assembled  savages  a  speech. 
He  recounted  the  numei-ous  oifts   that  had   been  bestowed,  the  benefit  the  white  man's 


104  OREGON. 

presence  had  been  to  their  peo])!^,  and  then,  upbraiding  them  for  thefts,  told  the 
Indians  that  he  shoukl  kill  the  thief  he  had  captured  with  pilfered  goods.  The  old 
chief  and  his  followers  besought  him  to  not  do  this.  They  were  willing  that  he  shoukl 
be  punished  severely,  and  then  let  go,  but  the  traj^i^er  was  inexorable,  and  the  ^^oor 
groveling  wretch  was  dragged  to  a  temjwrary  scaifold,  constructed  from  oars,  and  was 
launched  into  eternity.  The  other  partners  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  were  unanimous 
in  condemning  this  act,  and  Gabriel  Franchere,  who  was  one  of  the  company  clerks, 
wrote  concerning  the  killing  of  the  unfortunate  John  Reed  and  his  party  by  Indians 
the  ensuing  winter :  "  We  had  no  doubt  that  his  massacre  was  an  act  of  vengeance, 
on  the  part  of  the  natives,  in  retaliation  for  the  death  of  one  of  their  people,  whom  Mr. 
John  Clarke  had  hanged  for  theft  the  spring  before."  Immediately  after  this  hanging 
the  party  embarked  for  the  mouth  of  the  Walla  Walla,  where  Stuart  and  McKenzie 
were  waiting,  and  from  this  point  they  all  continued  their  way  down  the  river,  arriving 
at  Astoria,  June  12,  1813. 

Upon  re-assembling  at  headquarters,  the  return  expeditions  found  that,  upon  the 
whole,  it  had  been  a  successful  year's  labor,  that  the  peltry  brought  in,  amounting  to 
157  packs,  if  sold  at  market  rates  in  Canton,  would  pay  well  for  the  time  spent,  and 
reimburse  them  for  local  losses.  In  addition  to  this,  they  had  become  well  established 
in  the  fur  producing  regions,  and  the  outlook  was  very  encouraging  except  for  one 
thing.  War  had  been  raging  between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  for  over  a 
year,  and  they  had  recently  become  aware  of  this  fact. 

On  their  arrival  at  Astoria,  J.  G.  McTavish  with  nineteen  men  was  found  camped 
near  by,  awaiting  the  appearance  of  a  vessel  called  the  Isaac  Todd,  sent  by  the  North- 
west Comjiany  with  stores  for  them,  with  letters  of  marque,  and  instructions  from  the 
British  government  to  destroy  everything  American  found  on  the  Pacific  coast.  This 
latter  fact  was  unknown  at  Astoria  at  the  time,  however,  but  the  non-arrival  of  supplies 
by  sea,  combined  with  the  unfavorable  news  of  British  success  in  arms,  led  the  partners 
to  fear  that  none  whatever  would  reach  them.  They,  consequently,  determined  to 
abandon  the  country,  and  start  on  their  return  overland  the  ensuing  year,  if  their  mis- 
givings proved  well  founded.  They  sold  their  Spokane  fort  to  McTavish  for  $848, 
and  then  furnished  that  gentleman  with  j^rovisious  to  enable  him  to  return  to  the 
upper  country  ;  and,  in  July,  they  visited  the  interior  themselves  to  gather  what  furs 
they  could  -before  taking  final  leave  of  the  country. 

Three  months  later,  McTavish  returned  to  Astoria  witli  a  force  of  seventy-five  men 
for  the  purpose  of  meeting  the  vessel  that  had  caused  his  former  visit,  bringing,  also, 
the  news  that  her  coming  to  the  Columbia  was  for  the  purpose  of  capturing  Astoria, 
and  to  assist  the  Northwest  Company  in  gainmg  ascendancy  on  the  coast.  He  offered 
to  buy  the  furs  of  the  Astoriaus,  and,  on  the  sixteenth  of  October,  1813,  a  transfer  of 
the  entire  stock,  worth  at  least  $100,000,  was  made  for  less  than  $40,000.  Two  months 
later,  on  December  12,  the  fort  was  surrendered  to  the  English  under  cunnnand  of  a 
naval  officer.  Captain  Black  of  the  Raccoon,  when  the  American  flag  was  lowered  to 
give  the  British  colors  place,  and  the  name  of  Astoria  was  changed  to  Fort  George.  An 
amusing  incident  of  this  transfer  is  related  by  John  Ross  Cox.  "  The  Indians,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  knew  well  that  Great  Britain  and  America  were  distinct  nations, 
and  that  they  were  then  at  war,  but  were  ignorant  of  the  arrangement  made  between 


I 


OREGON.  105 

Messrs.  MrDougal  and  McTavish,  the  former  of  whom  still  coiitiuueil  as  nominal  chief 
at  the  fort.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Raccoon,  which  they  quickly  discovered  to  be  one  of 
*  King  George's  fighting  ships,'  they  repaired,  armed,  to  the  fort,  and  requested  an 
audience  of  Mr.  McDougal.  He  was  somewhat  surprised  at  their  numbers  and  war- 
like ajipearance,  and  demanded  the  object  of  such  an  unusual  visit.  Concomly,  the 
principal  chief  of  the  Chinooks,  (whose  daughter  McDougal  had  married,)  thereupon 
addressed  him  in  a  long  speech,  in  the  course  of  which  he  said  that  King  George  had 
sent  a  ship  full  of  warriors,  and  loaded  with  nothing  but  big  guns,  to  take  the  Ameri- 
cans and  make  them  all  slaves,  and  that,  as  they  (the  Americans)  were  the  first  white 
men  who  settled  in  their  country,  and  treated  the  Indians  like  good  relations,  they  had 
resolved  to  defend  them  from  King  George's  warriors,  and  were  now  ready  to  conceal 
themselves  in  the  woods  close  to  the  wharf,  from  whence  they  would  be  able,  with  their 
guns  and  arrows,  to  shoot  all  the  men  that  should  attempt  to  land  from  the  English 
boats,  -while  the  people  in  the  fort  could  fire  at  them  with  their  big  guns  and  rifles. 
This  proposition  was  uttered  with  an  earnestness  of  manner  that  admitted  no  doubt  of 
its  sincerity.  Two  armed  boats  from  the  Raccoon  were  approaching ;  and,  had  the 
peoijle  in  the  fort  felt  disposed  to  accede  to  the  wishes  of  the  Indians,  every  man  in 
them  would  have  been  destroyed  by  an  invisible  enemy.  Mr.  McDougal  thanked  them 
for  their  friendly  offer,  but  added,  that,  notwithstanding  the  nations  were  at  war,  the 
people  in. the  boats  would  not  injure  him  or  any  of  his  people,  and  therefore  requested 
them  to  throw  by  their  war  shirts  and  arms,  and  receive  the  strangers  as  their  friends. 
They  at  first  seemed  astonished  at  this  answer ;  but,  on  assuring  them,  in  the  most  pos- 
itive manner,  that  he  was  under  no  apprehension,  they  consented  to  give  up  their 
weapons  for  a  few  days.  They  afterwards  declared  they  were  sorry  for  having  complied 
with  Mr.  McDougal's  wishes ;  for  when  they  observed  Captain  Black,  surrounded  by 
his  ofiieers  and  marines,  break  the  bottle  of  port  on  the  flag -staff,  and  hoist  the  British 
ensign,  after  changing  the  name  of  the  fort,  they  remarked  that  however  he  might  wish 
to  conceal  the  fact,  the  Americans  were  undoubtedly  made  slaves." 

Seventy-eight  days  after  the  surrender  of  Astoria  to  the  British,  Mr.  Hunt 
arrived  at  that  fort  in  the  brig  Pedlar,  and  judge  of  his  astonishment,  to  learn  that 
McDougal  was  a  partner  no  longer  of  the  Pacific,  but  of  the  Northwest  Company; 
that  he  held  possession  not  under  the  American,  but  under  the  English  flag ;  and  that 
all  in  which  Mr.  Hunt  was  interested  on  this  coast  had  passed,  without  a  struggle, 
through  treachery,  into  the  hands  of  his  country's  enemies.  Mr.  Hunt,  finally,  secured 
the  papers  pertaining  to  business  transactions  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  from  Mc- 
Dougal, and  then  sailed,  April  3,  1814,  from  the  shore  that  had  seemed  to  yield  only 
misfortune  and  disaster  in  return  for  the  efforts  of  himself,  and  those  with  whom  he 
was  associated.  The  next  day,  David  Stuart,  McKenzie,  John  Clarke  and  eighty-five 
other  members  and  employes  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  started  up  the  Columbia 
river  in  their  boats  on  their  way  across  the  continent,  and  while  passing  AVallula, 
learned  from  the  widow  of  Pierre  Dorion,  of  the  massacre  of  John  Reed  and  his  eight 
associates,  among  the  Snake  Indians  near  Fort  Henrv. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


JOINT    OCCUPATION    OF    OREGON. 

The  Russian  Settlements— They  Establish  Themselves  at  Bodega  Bay— Treaty  of  Ghent  Restoration  to  the 
United  States  of  Astoria,  or  Fort  George-  Treaty  of  Joint  Occupancy  in  1818— The  Florida  Treaty  of 
1819 -Fierce  Rivalry  between  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  Northwest  Corapanies-The  War  on  Red  River— Consoli- 
dation of  the  Rival  Companies  — Description  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

During  the  years  that  had  elapsed  since  the  Russian  American  Trading  Com- 
pany was  chartered,  that  organization  had  become  exceedingly  powerful,  establishing 
many  posts  on  the  Alaskan  coast  and  carrying  on  the  fur  trade  in  a  systematic  and 
successful  manner.  In  1799  a  settlement  was  made  on  King  George  III.  archipelago 
near  Mount  Edgeeumb,  near  the  56th  parallel.  This  was  destroyed  by  the  natives  in 
1803,  and  was  rebuilt  in  1805,  and  was  then  called  New  Archangel  of  Sitka.  This 
became  the  capital  of  Russian  America  and  so  remained  until  Alaska  was  j)urchased 
by  the  United  States.  This  was  the  most  southerly  settlement  at  that  time,  but  in 
1806  preparations  were  made  to  occupy  tlie  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  which  was  con- 
sidered by  the  company  to  be  embraced  within  the  limits  of  the  country  over  which 
their  monopoly  charter  from  the  czar  extended.  The  execution  of  this  project  was 
deferred  for  a  time,  and,  as  we  have  seen,  was  in  a  few  years  rendered  impossible 
because  of  prior  possession  of  the  Americans  and  English.  In  1812  the  governor  of 
the  company,  whose  headquarters  were  at  Sitka,  requested  and  received  permission  of 
the  Spanish  governor  of  California  to  leave  a  few  men  on  the  shore  of  Bodega  bay,  a 
few  miles  north  of  Yerba  Buena  (San  Francisco)  for  the  purpose  of  preparing  meat 
and  supplies  for  their  j50sts  in  the  north.  In  a  few  years  this  little  station  had  become 
a  fortified  settlement,  and  the  governor's  request  and  peremptory  order  to  vacate  were 
treated  with  contempt ;  nor  were  they  ever  driven  from  their  post,  but  abandoned  it  in 
1840  at  the  request  of  the  United  States  government.  During  the  years  of  their 
occujjaney  many  voyages  of  trade  and  exijloration  were  made,  some  of  them  at  the 
expense  of  much  suflTering  and  many  lives,  adding  materially  to  the  geographical 
knowledge  of  the  upper  portion  of  the  Pacific  and  the  Arctic  ocean  above  Siberia  and 
about  Behring's  strait. 

The  treaty  of  Ghent,  which  ended  the  war  of  1812,  provided  that  "  all  territory, 
places,  and  possessions,  whatsoever,  taken  by  either  j)arty  from  the  other  during  the 
war,  or  which  may  be  taken  after  the  signing  of  this  treaty,  shall  be  restored  without 
delay."  It  failed,  however,  because  the  commissioners  could  not  agree,  to  define  a 
dividing  line  between  the  American  territory  of  Louisiana  and  the  possessions  of  the 
British,  west  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  In  pursuance  of  this  treaty,  Mr.  Astor,  who 
was  eager  to  recover  possession  of  Astoria  and  resume  his  trading  operations  in  the 
Pacific,  applied  to  the  president  for  restitution  of  his  property.     The  minister  of  Great 


Britain  at  Washington  was  accordingly  notified  in  Jnly,  181.3,  that  tlie  United  States 
would  at  once  reoccupy  the  captured  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  ;  Init  no  ap- 
parent notice  was  taken  of  this  by  the  English  government.  It  was  not  until  Septem- 
ber, 1817,  that  actual  steps  were  taken  to  carry  into  eifect  this  resolution,  and  then  the 
sloop  of  war  Ontario  was  dispatched  on  this  errand,  the  captain,  J.  Biddle,  and  J.  B 
Prevost,  his  associate  commissioner,  being  instructed  to  assert  the  claim  of  the  United 
States  to  the  sovereignty  of  the  country  adjacent  to  the  C'oluml)ia,  l)ut  to  do  so  in  a- 
friendly  and  peaceable  manner. 

Soon  after  the  departure  of  the  Ontario  the  representative  of  Great  Britain  offi- 
cially inquired  of  Secretary  Adams  the  destination  and  object  of  the  vessel,  and  was 
informed  that  it  was  directed  to  take  possession  of  the  post  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia, which,  since  no  attention  had  been  paid  to  the  notification  of  two  years  before,  it 
had  been  assumed  Great  Britain  had  no  idea  of  claiming  as  rightfully  hers.  This  was 
answered  by  saying  that  the  post  had  been  purchased  by  the  Northwest  Company, 
subjects  of  his  majesty,  from  private  individuals,  and  as  it  was  situated  in  a  region 
which  that  company  had  long  occupied  it  was  considered  as  forming  a  portion  of  his 
majesty's  dominions.  Much  controversy  was  carried  on  between  the  two  governments 
on  the  questions  of  abstract  right  and  actual  possession.  It  was  finally  agreed  that  the 
post  should  be  restored  to  the  United  States  but  its  property  should  still  belong  to  its 
l^urchasers,  while  the  right  of  dominion  over  the  country  should  be  left  for  future  nego- 
tiation. The  Ontario  arrived  at  Valparaiso  in  February,  1818,  where  Mr.  Prevost 
landed  to  transact  official  business  with  the  Chilean  government.  Captain  Biddle  con- 
tinued to  the  Columbia,  sailing  into  that  stream  in  the  month  of  August  and  taking- 
formal  possession  of  the  surrounding  country  in  the  name  of  the  United  States.  He 
then  departed  for  other  portions  of  the  Pacific.  In  the  meantime  Captain  Sheriff,  of 
the  English  navy,  having  orders  to  deliver  up  Fort  George,  met  Mr.  Prevost  in  Chili 
and  offered  him  passage  to  the  Columbia  for  that  purpose  in  the  frigate  Blossom. 
They  entered  the  river  early  in  October,  when  Mr.  Keith,  the  gentleman  in  charge 
surrendered  possession,  having  been  instructed  to  that  effect  by  the  officers  of  the  com- 
pany. A  paper  was  given  to  Mr.  Prevost  setting  forth  the  fact  that,  in  pursuance  of 
orders  from  the  government,  Fort  George,  on  the  Columbia  river,  Avas  surrendered  to 
him  as  the  representative  of  the  United  States,  and  he  in  return  gave  the  officers  a 
written  acceptance  of  the  transfer.  The  British  flag  was  then  lowered  and  the  Amer- 
ican ensign  was  temjiorarily  displayed  over  the  walls  of  Fort  George,  Avhile  it  was 
courteously  saluted  by  the  guns  of  the  Blossom.  Thus  the  matter  stood,  the  Ameri- 
cans nominally  and  the  British  actually  in  possession  of  Oregon. 

During  the  time  the  Northwest  Company  had  occupied  this  post  many  improve- 
ments had  been  made,  so  that  the  Fort  George  of  1818  was  far  different  from  the 
Astoria  of  five  years  before.  A  stockade  of  pine  logs,  twelve  feet  high  above  the 
ground,  enclosed  a  imrallelogram  of  150x250  feet,  within  which  were  dwellings,  store- 
houses, magazines,  shops,  etc.,  all  defended  by  two  eightecn-pounders,  six  six-pounders, 
four  four-pound  carronades,  two  six-pound  cohorns,  and  seven  swivels,  armament 
sufficient  for  a  strong  fort  in  those  days.  The  population  consisted  of  twenty-three 
whites,  twenty-six  Kanakas  and  sixteen  Canadian  half-breeds.  The  comi^any  was  not 
disturbed  in  the  possession  of  this  important  post,  and  ^Iv.  Astor  was  finally  compelled 


108  OEEGON. 

to  abandon  all  hoj^e  of  recoveriug  his  property  through  the  action  of  the  government, 
and  not  deeming  it  advisable  to  found  a  rival  establishment,  was  reluctantly  compelled 
to  abandon  his  projects  in  the  Pacific  altogether. 

Negotiations  still  continued  between  the  two  governments  during  these  transac- 
tions of  their  agents,  and  on  the  twentieth  of  October,  1818,  a  treaty  of  compromise 
was  signed,  providing  that  all  territories  and  their  waters  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains 
should  be  free  and  open  to  the  vessels  and  to  the  use  and  occupation  of  the  citizens 
and  subjects  of  both  nations  for  the  period  of  ten  years,  and  that  no  claim  of  either 
party  should  in  any  manner  be  prejudiced  by  this  action,  and  that  neither  should  gain 
any  right  of  dominion  by  such  use  or  occupation  during  the  time  specified.  On  the 
twenty-second  of  February,  1819,  a  treaty  was  concluded  between  the  United  States 
and  Spain,  generally  known  as  the  Florida  treaty,  by  which  Spain  ceded  to  the 
United  States  her  province  of  Florida  and  all  her  rights,  claims  and  pretensions  to 
anv  territories  north  and  east  of  a  line  drawn  from  the  source  of  the  Arkansas  north 
to  the  42d  parallel  and  thence  west  to  the  Pacific.  The  42d  parallel  remained  the 
boundary  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico  until  Texas,  then  California,  and  still 
later  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  were  conquered  or  purchased  by  the  former,  and  was 
considered  the  southern  boundary  of  Oregon. 

Fierce  rivalry  had  existed  for  many  jearti  between  the  Hudson's  Bay  Comj^any 
and  its  energetic  competitor.  The  despised  rival  had  grown  in  wealth  and  power  until 
the  Northwest  Company,  though  not  protected  by  royal  charter  and  not  having  vast  terri- 
tories over  which  to  exercise  the  right  of  dominion,  had  become  an  organization  even 
more  wealthy  and  powerful  than  the  chartered  monoi:)oly.  In  the  plenitude  of  its 
power  it  gave  employment  to  2,000  voyageurs,  while  its  agents  penetrated  the  wilder- 
ness in  all  directions  in  search  of  furs.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  confined 
itself  to  its  granted  territory,  and  had  not  even  explored  that  with  enlightened  energy, 
their  method  of  conducting  the  business  being  to  build  a  few  j)osts  at  central  jJoints,  to 
which  the  Indians  re23aired  for  purposes  of  trade.  On  the  contrary,  it  w'as  the  policy 
of  the  rival  organization  to  send  its  agents  far  and  wide,  to  trade  with  the  natives  and 
open  up  new  fields  of  operation.  This  aggressive  policy  soon  had  the  effect  of  arousing 
the  old  comjiany  to  a  realizing  sense  of  the  precarious  condition  of  its  affairs,  and  the 
necessity  for  taking  energetic  steps  to  recover  the  ground  it  was  rapidly  losing.  The 
result  of  the  rivalry,  growing  chiefly  out  of  the  improvident  methods  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  was  so  alarming  a  decrease  in  the  fur-bearing  animals  as  to  threaten  their 
complete  extinction.  A  systematic  effort  was  made  to  crush  the  old  company,  or  to  at 
least  drive  its  representatives  from  the  most  valuable  lieaver  country,  with  the  hope  of 
finally  compelling  a  surrender  of  its  charter. 

The  first  act  of  actual  hostility,  other  than  mere  trade  rivalry,  was  committed  in 
1806,  when  a  trader  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  forcibly  deprived  of  480  packs 
of  beaver  skins,  and  a  few  months  later  of  fifty  more.  The  same  year  another  trader 
was  attacked  and  robbed  of  valuable  furs  by  servants  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and 
received  similar  treatment  again  the  following  spring.  These  acts  of  plundering  were 
numerous,  and  since  no  law  but  the  law  of  might  existed  in  the  wilderness,  there  was 
no  redress  for  the  despoiled  company  nor  punishment  for  the  offenders,  since  the  latter 
were  Canadians  and  their  victims    citizens  of  England  and  not  possessed  of  facilities 


Philip  Ua  Motta's  dARBER  Shop. 
U.S. Signal  Service  Office,  upstairs. 
ROSEBURG. 


OREGON.  103 

for  .securing  redress  in  the  courts  of  Canada.  In  twelve  years  l)ut  one  case  was  l^rouglit 
to  trial,  in  1809,  wdien  a  Hudson's  Bay  Company  man  was  convicted  of  manslaughter 
for  killing  an  agent  of  the  other  company  who  was  making  an  attack  upon  him  with  a 
sword ;  and  this  result  was  accomplished  by  the  powerful  influence  of  the  Northwest 
Company  in  Montreal. 

In  1812,  having  received  a  grant  of  fertile  laud  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com2)any, 
Lord  Selkirk,  a  man  of  energy  and  an  enthusiast  on  the  subject  of  colonial  emigration, 
commenced  a  settlement  on  Red  river  near  its  junction  with  the  Assiniboine,  south  of 
Lake  Winnipeg.  No  sooner  was  this  accomplished  than  the  rival  company  expressed 
a  determination  to  destroy  the  settlement,  and  in  the  autumn  of  1814  fitted  out  atf  ex- 
pedition for  that  purpose  at  its  chief  establishment.  Fort  William,  on  the  shore  of  Lake 
Superior.  After  harrassing  the  settlement  for  some  months,  an  attack  was  made  upon 
it  in  June,  1815,  which  was  reixdsed.  Artillery  having  been  brought  up,  the  buildings 
of  Fort  Gibraltar,  the  strong  hold  of  the  settlement,  were  battered  dow^n  and  the  place 
captured.  The  governor  was  sent  to  Montreal  a  prisoner,  the  remainder  of  the  settlers 
were  expelled  from  the  country,  the  cattle  were  slaughtered  and  the  buildings  demol- 
ished. In  the  fall,  however  the  colonists  returned  with  a  great  accession  to  their  num- 
bers and  again  established  themselves  under  the  leadership  of  Colin  Eobertson,  being- 
accompanied  by  Robert  Semple,  governor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  territories. 
In  the  spring  of  1816,  Alexander  McDonnell,  a  imrtner  of  the  Northwest  Company 
collected  a  strong  force  with  the  design  of  crushing  the  settlement  completely.  After 
capturing  the  supply  train  on  its  way  to  Red  river,  the  invading  force  came  upon 
(rovernor  Semple  and  a  force  of  thirty  men  all  of  whom  they  killed,  except  one  who 
was  made  a  prisoner  and  four  who  escaped.  The  settlers  still  remaining  in  the  fort, 
seeing  the  hopelessness  of  resistance,  surrendered,  and  to  the  number  of  200  were  sent 
in  canoes  to  Hudson's  bay.  They  were  chiefly  Scotch,  as  were  also  the  attacking  jiarty; 
but  the  love  of  gain  was  stronger  than  the  ties  of  blood. 

In  1821  parliament  put  an  end  to  this  bloody  feud  and  ruinous  competition  by 
consolidating  the  rival  companies  under  the  name  of  The  Honorable  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  by  which  Avas  created  an  organization  far  more  ptowerful  than  had  either 
been  before,  and  England  gained  a  united  and  potent  agent  for  the  advancement  of 
her  interests  in  America.  The  settlements  on  the  Red,  Assiniboine  and  Saskatchewan 
rivers  were  renewed,  and  Winnipeg  became  in  a  few  years  the  center  of  a  prosperous 
community.  The  new  company  took  possession  of  Astoria  and  the  posts  along  the 
Columbia,  and  as  it  thereafter  became  closely  woven  into  the  history  of  this  region,  a 
brief  description  of  its  founding,  growth  and  methods  becomes  necessary  to  a  full 
understanding  of  subsequent  events.  Dr.  William  Barrows  gives  the  following  descrip- 
tion of  that  powerful  corporation. 

"  Its  two  objects  as  set  forth  in  its  charter,  were  'for  the  discovery  of  a  new  passage 
into  the  South  Sea,  and  for  the  finding  of  some  trade  for  furs,  minerals  and  other  con- 
siderable commadities.'  It  may  well  he  suspected  that  the  first  was  the  face  and  the 
second  the  soul  of  the  charter,  which  grants  to  the  company  the  exclusive  right  of  the 
'trade  and  commerce  of  all  those  seas,  straits  and  bays,  rivers,  lakes,  creeks,  and  sounds, 
in  whatsoever  latitude  they  shall  be,  that  lie  within  the  enti'ance  of  the  straits  com- 
monlv  called  Hudson  straits,' and   of  all    hinds   borderino- them    not    under  anv  other 


civilized  govenimeut.  This  covered  all  territory  within  that  immense  basin  from  rim 
to  rim,  one  edge  dipping  into  the  Atlantic  and  the  other  looking  into  the  Pacific. 
Tlirongli  this  vast  extent  the  comjjany  was  made  for  '  all  time  hereafter,  capable  in 
law,  to  have,  pnrchase,  receive,  possess,  enjoy,  and  retain  lands,  rents,  privileges,  lib- 
erties, jurisdiction,  franchise,  and  hereditaments  of  what  kind,  nature,  or  quality 
soever  they  be,  to  them  and  their  successors.'  The  company  held  that  region  as  a 
man  holds  his  farm,  or  as  the  great  bulk  of  real  estate  in  England  is  now  held.  They 
could  legislate  over  and  govern  it,  bound  only  by  the  tenor  and  sjiirit  of  English  law, 
and  make  war  and  peace  within  it;  and  all  persons  outside  the  company  could  be  for- 
bidden to  '  visit,  hunt,  frequent,  trade,  traffic,  or  adventure'  therein.  For  all  this, 
and  as  a  confession  of  allegiance  to  the  crown  as  a  dependent  colony  and  province', 
they  were  to  pay  annually  as  rent  '  two  elks  and  two  black  beavers.'  Cheap  rent  that, 
especially  since  the  king  or  his  agent  must  collect  it  on  the  ground  of  the  company. 
To  dwell  in  the  territory  or  even  to  go  across  it  would  be  as  really  a  trespass  as  if  it 
were  done  on  the  lawn  of  a  private  gentleman  in  Middlesex  county,  England. 

"  Such  were  the  chartered  rights  of  a  monopoly  that  growing  bolder  and  more 
grasping  became  at  last  continental  in  sweeji,  irresistible  in  power,  and  inexorable  in 
spirit.  In  1821  the  crown  granted  to  this  and  the  Northwest  Company  united,  and  for 
a  term  of  twenty-one  years,  the  exclusive  right  to  trade  with  all  Indians  in  British 
North  America,  north  and  west  of  the  United  States,  and  not  included  in  the  first 
charter.  This  granted  only  trade,  not  ownership  in  the  soil.  Thus,  while  the  chartered 
territory  was  imperial,  it  grew^,  by  granted  monopoly  of  trade,  to  be  continental.  By 
degrees  the  trappers  and  traders  Avent  over  the  rim  of  the  Hudson  basin,  till  they 
reached  the  Arctic  seas  along  the  outlet  of  the  Coppermine  and  the  Mackenzie.  They 
set  beaver  traps  on  the  Yukon  and  Eraser  rivers,  around  the  Athabasca,  Slave  and 
Bear  lakes,  and  on  the  heads  of  the  Columbia.  From  the  adjacent  Pacific  shore  they 
lined  their  treasury  with  the  soft  coats  of  the  fur  seal  and  the  sea-otter.  They  wei-e 
the  pioneers  of  this  traffic,  and  pressed  this  monopoly  of  fur  on  the  sources,  not  only 
of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  but  down  into  the  Salt  Lake  basin  of  modern  Utah. 
What  minor  and  rival  companies  stood  in  the  way  they  bought  in,  or  crushed  by  un- 
derselling to  the  Indians.  Individual  enterprise  in  the  fur  trade,  from  Newfoundland 
to  Vancouver,  and  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Yellowstone  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Mackenzie  was  at  their  mercy.  They  practically  controlled  the  introduction  of  sup- 
plies and  the  outgoing  of  furs  and  peltries  from  all  the  immense  region  between  those 
four  points. 

"  Within  the  Canadas  and  the  other  provinces  they  held  the  Indian  and  the  Eu- 
ropean equally  at  bay,  while  within  all  this  vast  unorganized  wilderness,  their  hand 
over  red  and  white  man  was  absolute.  At  first  the  company  could  govern  as  it  pleased, 
and  was  autocratic  and  irresponsible.  By  additional  legislation  in  1803,  the  civil  and 
criminal  government  of  the  Canadas  was  made  to  follow  the  company  into  lands  out- 
side their  first  charter,  commonly  called  Indian  countries.  The  governor  of  Lower 
Canada  had  the  appointing  power  of  officials  within  those  counti-ies.  But  he  did  not 
send  in  special  men ;  he  appointed  those  connected  with  the  company  and  on  the 
ground.  The  company,  therefore,  had  the  administration  in  those  outside  districts  in 
its  own  hands.     Thus  the  commercial  life  of  the  Canadas  was  so  dependent  upon  the 


OREGON.  Ill 

Hudson  Bay  Company  that  the  government  couhl  be  eonnted  on  to  promote  the  wishes 
of  the  company.  In  brief,  the  government  of  British  America  was  practically  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  for  all  the  privilege  and  monopoly  which  it  enjoyed  with- 
out seeming  to  demand  it,  there  was  an  annual  jiayment  if  called  for  of  '  two  elks  and 
two  black  beavers.' 

"  This  company  thus  became  a  powerful  organization.  It  had  no  rival  to  share 
the  field,  or  waste  the  profits  iu  litigation,  or  in  bloody  feuds  beyond  the  region  of 
law.  [  Except  the  contest  between  it  and  the  Northwest  Company  prior  to  their  con- 
solidation.] It  extended  its  lines,  multiplied  its  posts  and  agents,  systematized  com- 
munication through  the  immense  hunting  grounds,  economized  time  and  funds  by  in- 
creased expedition,  made  many  of  its  factories  really  fortifications,  and  so  put  the  whole 
northern  interior  under  British  rule,  and  yet  without  a  soldier.  Kivers,  lakes,  moun- 
tains and  prairies  were  covered  by  its  agents  and  trappers.  The  white  and  the  red 
men  were  on  most  friendly  terms,  and  the  birch  canoe  and  the  pirogue  were  seen  car- 
lying,  in  mixed  company,  both  races,  and,  what  was  more,  their  mixed  progeny.  The 
extent  of  territory  under  this  company  seems  almost  fabulous.  It  was  one-third  larger 
than  all  Europe  ;  it  was  larger  than  the  United  States  of  to-day,  Alaska  included,  by 
half  a  million  of  square  miles.  From  the  American  headquarters  at  Montreal  to  the 
post  at  Vancouver  was  a  distance  of  twenty -five  hundred  miles  ;  to  Fort  Selkirk  on  the 
Yukon,  or  to  the  one  on  Great  Bear  lake,  it  was  three  thousand  miles,  and  it  was  still 
further  to  the  rich  fur  seal  and  sea-otter  on  the  tide  waters  of  the  Mackenzie.  James 
l)ay  and  Red  river  at  Winnipeg  seem  near  to  Montreal  in  comparison.  These  dis- 
tances would  compare  well  with  air-line  routes  from  Washington  to  Dublin,  or  Gib- 
raltar or  Quito. 

"One  contemplates  this  power  with  awe  and  fear,  when  he  regards  the  even  motion 
and  solemn  silence  and  unvarying  sameness  with  which  it  has  done  its  work  through 
that  dreary  animal  country.  It  has  been  said  that  a  hundred  years  has  not  changed 
its  bill  of  goods  ordered  from  London.  The  company  wants  the  same  muskrat  and 
heaver  and  seal ;  the  Indian  hunter,  unimproved,  and  the  half-breed  European,  deterio- 
rating, want  the  same  cotton  goods,  and  flint-lock  guns,  and  tobacco  and  gew-gaws. 
To-day,  as  a  hundred  years  ago,  the  dog  sled  runs  out  from  Winnipeg  for  its  solitary 
drive  of  five  hundred,  or  two  thousand,  or  even  three  thousand  miles.  It  glides,  silent 
as  a  spectre,  over  those  snow  fields,  and  through  the  solemn,  still  forests,  painfully 
wanting  in  animal  life.  Fifty,  seventy,  an  hundred  days  it  speeds  along,  and  as  many 
nights  it  camps  without  fire,  and  looks  up  to  the  same  cold  stars.  At  the  intervening 
])osts  the  sledge  makes  a  pause,  as  a  ship,  having  rounded  Cape  Horn,  heaves  to  before 
some  lone  Pacific  island.  It  is  the  same  at  the  trader's  hut  or  fiictory  as  when  the 
sledgemau's  grandfather  drove  up,  the  same  dogs,  the  same  half-breeds,  or  royageurs  to 
welcome  him,  the  same  foul,  lounging  Indians,  and  the  same  mink  skin  in  exchange 
for  the  same  trinkets.  The  fur  animal  and  its  purchaser  and  hunter,  as  the  landscape, 
seem  to  be  alike  under  the  same  immutable,  unprogressive  law  of  nature, 

'  A  land  where  all  things  always  seemed  the  same,' 
a-s  among  the  lotus-eaters.      Human    progress    and    Indian    civilization    have    made 
scarcely  uKjre  improvement  than  that  central,  silent  partner  in  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany— the  beaver. 


112  OKEGON. 

"  Oue  feels  towards  the  power  of  this  company,  moving  thns  with  evenness  and 
immutability  through  a  hundred  years,  much  as  one  does  towards  a  law  of  nature.  At 
Fort  Selkirk,  for  example,  the  fifty-two  numbers  of  the  weekly  London  Times  came 
in  on  the  last  sledge  arrival.  The  first  number  is  already  three  years  old,  by  its 
tedious  voyage  from  the  Thames.  Now  one  number  only  a  week  is  read,  that  the  lone 
trader  there  may  have  fresh  news  weekly  until  the  next  annual  dog-mail  arrives,  and 
each  successive  number  is  three  years  behind  time  when  it  is  opened  !  In  this  day  of 
steamers  and  telegraphs  and  telephones,  does  it  seem  possible  that  any  human,  white 
habitation  can  be  so  outside  of  the  geography  and  chronology  of  the  world  ?  The  goods 
of  the  company,  packed  and  shipped  in  Fenchurch  street,  leave  London,  and  at  the 
end  of  the  third  year  they  are  delivered  at  Fort  Confidence  on  Great  Bear  lake,  or  at 
any  other  extreme  factory  of  the  company ;  and  at  the  end  of  three  years  more  the  re- 
turn furs  go  up  the  Thames  and  into  Fenchurch  street  again.  So  in  cycles  of  six 
years,  and  from  age  to  age,  like  a  planet,  the  shares  in  the  Hudson  Bay  Compaiiy 
make  their  orbit  and  dividends.  A  run  of  three  months  and  the  Loudon  ship  drops 
anchor  in  Hudson  bay.  '  For  one  year '  says  Butler  in  his '  Great  Lone  Land,'  '  the 
stores  that  she  has  brought  in  lie  in  the  warehouse  of  York  Factory  ;  twelve  months 
later  they  reach  Ked  river ;  twelve  months  later  they  reach  Fort  Simpson  on  the  Mac- 
kenzie.' 

"  The  original  stock  of  this  company  was  $50,820.  In  fifty  years  it  was  trippled 
twice  by  profits  only,  and  went  up  to  $457,380,  while  not  one  new  dollar  was  paid  in. 
In  1821  the  company  absorbed  the  Northwest  Company  of  Montreal,  on  a  basis  of 
value  equal  to  its  own.  The  consolidated  stock  then  was  $1,916,000,  of  which 
$1,780,866  was  from  profits.  Yet,  meanwhile,  there  had  been  an  annual  payment  of 
ten  per  cent,  to  stockholders.  In  1836  one  of  the  company's  ships  left  Fort  George 
for  London,  with  a  cargo  of  furs  valued  at  $380,000.  =•=  *  *  When  the 
Eno-lish  o-overnment,  in  1846,  conceded  the  claims  of  the  United  States  to  Oregon, 
property  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  was  found  within  Oregon  for  which  that  com- 
pany claimed  $4,990,036.67.  One  cannot  but  admire  the  foresight,  compass,  policy, 
and  ability  with  which  those  English  fur  traders  moved  to  gain  possession,  and  then 
keep  in  wilderness  for  fur-bearing,  so  much  of  North  America.  '='  '^^  '^' 
Travelers  tell  us  of  an  oppressive,  painful  silence  through  all  that  weird  northland. 
Quadruped  life,  and  the  scanty  little  that  there  is  of  bird  life,  is  not  vocal,  much  less 
musical.  This  company  has  partaken  of  the  silence  of  its  domain.  It  makes  but 
little  noise  for  so  great  an  organization.  It  says  but  few  things  and  only  the  necessary 
ones,  and  even  those  with  an  obscurity  often,  that  only  the  interested  and  initiated 
understand.     The  statements  of  its  works  and  results  are  mostly  in  the  passive  voice." 

This  description  carries  us  somewhat  beyond  the  era  of  which  this  chapter  treats, 
but  it  is  done  for  a  purpose,  that  the  reader  might  fully  comprehend  the  full  power, 
methods  and  objects  of  this  potent  corporation  which  represented  England  in  its  eon- 
test  with  the  United  States  for  the  fair  land  of  Oregon.  If  he  will  study  it  he  will 
discover  the  fatal  points  of  weakness,  which  will  be  developed  more  and  more  as  the 
story  of  that  long  contest  is  unfolded.  The  company  desired  to  win  Oregon  for  Eng- 
land, not  that  the  power  and  dominion  of  that  great  empire  might  be  extended,  but 
that  the  company  might  be  left  unmolested  to  dominate  this  region  and  fill  its  treasure 


■v.-*.- 


f?4ff»- 


m  \\ 


OREGON.  113 

boxes  with  the  products  of  the  wiklerness;  for  its  officers  well  knew  that  from  Eng- 
land they  might  hope  for  an  indefinite  extension  of  its  monopoly  rights,  but  from^the 
United  States  nothing.  It  was  an  effort  to  beat  back  the  wave  of  progress  and  civili- 
zation, and  fiulure  could  have  been  the  only  result.  For  two  centuries  it  had  reigned 
sujn'eme  in  British  America,  and  had  defeated  every  effiirt  to  make  of  that  region  any- 
thing but  a  vast  hunting  ground  for  its  representatives.  It  was  from  the  first  its  policy 
to  discourage  and  jirevent  if  possible  any  exploration  of  its  dominions,  and  instances 
are  not  wanting  where  expeditions  sent  out  by  the  home  government  came  to  grief 
through  the  machinations  of  the  company.  It  occasionally  sent  out  explorers  in  search 
of  new  fields  in  which  to  operate,  but  was  careful  to  keep  the  knowledge  thus  obtained 
a  secret,  and  to  make  no  record  of  anything  save  what  was  necessary  in  the  prosecu- 
tion of  its  business.  This  policy  it  endeavored  to  carry  out  in  Oregon  ;  but  it  miscal- 
culated its  strength  and  was  swept  away  before  the  resistless  march  of  American  progress. 


CHAPTER  XV 


RIVALRY    OF    ENGLISH  AND  AMERICAN  FUR  COMPANIES. 

Outlook  for  Joint  Occupation  -American  and  English  Fur  Traders  Compared —Fort  Vancouver  Founded  -De- 
scribed by  John  Dunn— American  Trapping  History— Expeditions  of  Jedediah  S.  Smith— The  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  Enters  California-  Ewing  Young's  Party— Bonneville  and  Wyeth — Failure  of  American  Trappers 
in  Oregon— Cause  of  their  111  Success. 

When  joint  occui)ation  of  Oregon  was  agreed  upon  in  1818,  the  only  Caucasians 
in  the  country,  as  we  have  seen,  were  representatives  of  the  Northwest  Company,  or, 
as  they  became  in  a  few  years,  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Not  an  American  was 
to  be  found  along  the  Columbia  from  its  source  to  its  mouth.  After  the  disastrous 
venture  of  Mr.  Astor  and  his  unsuccessful  efforts  to  secure  a  restoration  of  his  property 
through  the  medium  of  the  government,  which,  could  it  but  have  recognized  the  fact, 
was  far  more  deeply  interested  in  retaining  under  American  control  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  than  any  private  citizen  could  possibly  have  been,  traders  hesitated  to  enter 
this  region  and  undertake  to  comj^ete  with  the  powerful  organization  already  entrenched. 
The  question  of  taking  military  ^'ossession  of  the  Columbia  was  frequently  discussed 
in  congress,  committees  reported  favorably  on  it  at  various  times,  and  a  number  of 
plans  were  advocated,  among  them  being  one  to  send  a  body  of  troops  overland  to  oc- 
cupy the  disputeil  territorv,  and  another  to  construct  a  chain  of  forts  across  the  con- 
tinent, which  should  form  a  basis  of  supplies  and  protection  for  emigrants.  None  of 
these  plans  were  adopted,  and  it  was  then  a  little  early  for  emigrants. 


The  great  draAvback  was  the  fact  that  there  was  no  American  company  sufficiently 
powerful  to  enter  the  field  in  competition  with  the  English  corporation.  The  Ameri- 
cans were  nearly  all  independent  traders,  operating  individually  or  in  partnerships  of 
two  or  three.  Separately  they  had  not  the  capital  to  carry  on  a  business  in  the  sys- 
tematic and  comprehensive  manner  in  which  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  operated. 
One  unsuccessful  season  with  them  was  often  financially  disastrous,  while  to  the  great 
company  a  completely  unsuccessful  year  was  impossible.  Covering  such  a  vast  scope 
of  country,  dealing  with  so  many  tribes,  and  handling  such  varied  classes  of  fiirs,  such 
a  thing  as  a  total  failure  was  unknown.  Losses  in  one  section  were  certain  to  be  com- 
pensated for  by  unusual  gains  in  another.  Whenever  two  trapping  parties  met  in  open 
competition  for  the  trade  of  a  tribe,  the  Americans  had  to  go  to  the  wall,  except  in  the 
few  cases  where  they  outwitted  their  opponents.  The  English  trader  was  instructed  to 
do  anything  he  chose  to  spoil  the  trade  of  his  rivals.  No  spectre  of  bankruptcy 
shook  its  bony  finger  before  his  face,  no  vision  of  an  angry  and  distrustful  partner 
rose  up  before  him.  He  could  sit  quietly  down  and  give  away  every  dollar's  worth  of 
goods  he  had,  if  it  were  necessary  so  to  do  in  order  to  prevent  the  Indians  from  trading 
with  his  rivals.  On  the  other  hand  the  American  trader,  with  the  last  dollar  he  pos- 
sessed invested  in  this  one  venture,  could  neither  give  away  his  goods  nor  could  he 
affi)rd  to  lose  the  trade  before  him ;  for  often  the  chance  he  then  had  to  secure  a  good 
stock  of  furs  was  the  only  opportunity  offered  during  the  season,  and  to  miss  it  meant 
ruin.  Xot  only  this,  but  the  American  traders  carried  on  such  sharp  competition  among 
themselves  that  they  were  the  more  unable  to  hold  their  ground  against  a  harmonious 
organization.  The  fact  that  congress  in  1815  passed  an  act  expelling  all  foreign  traders 
from  the  territories  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains  is  of  importance  only  as  it  signifies 
the  desire  of  the  government  to  aid  our  struggling  pioneer  traders ;  for  the  act  was 
practically  inoperative,  since  agents  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  continued  to  mo- 
nopolize the  Indian  trade  on  the  upper  Missouri  and  its  affluents. 

In  1821  the  Northwest  Company  established  a  post  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, a  few  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette,  which  was  called  Fort  Van- 
couver, since  this  was  the  highest  point  reached  by  the  exploring  party  of  the  Van- 
couver expedition  in  1792.  In  1823  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  removed  its  Pacific 
headquarters  from  Astoria  to  that  point  because  it  possessed  the  desirable  features  for 
such  an  establishment  more  fiilly  than  any  other  in  this  whole  region.  It  was  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Willamette  and  therefore  the  center  and  natural  converging  point  of 
trapping  parties  coming  down  the  Columbia  from  the  vast  wilderness  to  the  east  or 
with  the  annual  overland  express  from  Montreal,  from  the  rich  trapping  grounds  to 
the  south,  or  from  the  upper  coast  and  Puget  sound;  agriculturally,  the  surroundings 
were  all  that  could  be  desired  to  raise  the  large  crops  of  grain  and  vegetables  required 
at  all  the  company's  posts  and  to  furnish  pasturage  for  the  beef  and  dairy  cattle ;  it 
was  easily  approachable  by  deep-water  vessels  of  large  draft,  and  presented  excellent 
natural  facilities  for  loading  and  discharging  cargo.  The  vessels  that  came  at  stated 
lieriods  to  bring  supplies  and  carry  away  the  accumulated  furs,  could  spare  the  few  days 
of  extra  time  required  to  ascend  the  river  better  than  the  employees  of  the  company 
could  spare  it  in  passing  to  and  from  headquarters  in  the  transaction  of  business.  Van- 
couver was  the  most  eligible  site  on  the  Columbia  for  the  chief  trading  post,  and 


OREGON.  115 

remained  the  company's  liea(l(|uai'ters  until  it  abaiuloiied  this  region  entirely  in 
1858. 

During  the  next  four  years  the  company  spread  out  in  all  directions,  from  C'alifor- 
uia  to  Alaska  and  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Rocky  mountains.  Some  idea  can  be  gained 
of  its  power  and  methods  in  Oregon  from  the  following  description  given  by  John 
Dunn,  for  seven  years  a  clerk  and  trader  of  the  comi^any  : 

"  Fort  Vancouver  is  the  grand  mart  and  rendezvous  for  the  company's  trade  and 
servants  on  the  Pacific.  Thither  all  the  furs  and  other  articles  of  trade  collected  west 
of  the  Rocky  mountains  from  California  to  the  Russian  territories,  are  brought  from 
the  several  other  forts  and  stations ;  and  from  thence  they  are  ship23ed  to  England. 
Thither  too  all  the  goods  brought  from  England  for  traffic — the  various  articles  in 
woolens  and  cottons — in  grocery — in  hardware — ready-made  clothes — oils  and  paints 
— ship  stores,  etc.,  are  landed  ;  and  from  thence  they  are  distributed  to  the  various 
posts  of  the  interior,  and  along  the  northern  shores  by  sailing  vessels ;  or  by  boat ;  or 
pack  horses ;  as  the  several  routes  permit ;  for  distribution  and  traffic  among  the  na- 
tives, or  for  the  supjily  of  the  company's  servants.  In  a  word,  Fort  Vancouver  is  the 
grand  emporium  of  the  company's  trade,  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains  ;  as  well  within 
the  Oregon  territory,  as  beyond  it,  from  California  to  Kamstchatka. 

"  The  fort  is  in  the  shape  of  a  parallelogram,  about  250  yards  long,  by  150  broad  ; 
enclosed  by  a  sort  of  wooden  wall,  made  of  pickets,  or  large  beams  fixed  firmly  in  the 
ground,  and  closely  fitted  together,  twenty  feet  high,  and  strongly  secured  on  the  inside 
by  buttresses.  At  each  angle  there  is  a  bastion,  mounting  two  twelve  pounders,  and 
in  the  center  there  are  some  eighteen  pounders  ;  but  from  the  subdued  and  pacific  char- 
acter of  the  natives,  and  the  long  absence  of  all  apprehension,  these  canon  have  be- 
come useless.  The  area  within  is  divided  into  two  courts,  arouad  which  are  arranged 
about  forty  neat,  strong  wooden  buildings,  one  story  high,  designed  for  various  purposes 
— such  as  offices,  apartments  for  the  clerks  and  other  officers — warehouses  for  furs, 
Engli.sh  goods  and  other  commodities — workshops  for  the  difterent  mechanics  ;  carpen- 
ters, blacksmiths,  coopers,  wheelwrights,  tinners,  etc.  ;  in  all  of  which  there  is  the  most 
diligent  and  unceasing  activity  and  industry.  There  is  also  a  school  house  and  chapel; 
and  a  powder  magazine  built  of  brick  and  stone. 

"  In  the  centre  stands  the  governor's  residence,  which  is  two  stories  high — the  din- 
ing hall ;  and  the  public  sitting  room.  All  the  clerks  and  officers,  including  the  chaj)- 
lain  and  physician,  dine  together  in  the  hall ;  the  governor  presiding.  The  dinner  is 
of  the  most  substantial  kind,  consisting  of  several  courses.  Wine  is  frequently  allowed  ; 
but  no  spirituous  liquors.  After  grace  has  been  said,  the  company  break  up.  Then 
most  of  the  party  retire  to  the  public  sitting  room,  called  '  Bachelor's  Hall, '  or  the 
smoking  room;  to  amuse  themselves  as  they  please,  either  in  smoking,  reading,  or  tell- 
ing and  listening  to  stories  of  their  own  and  others'  curious  adventures.  Sometimes 
there  is  a  great  influx  of  company,  consisting  of  the  chief  traders  from  the  outposts, 
who  arrive  at  the  fijrt  on  business ;  and  the  commanders  of  vessels.  These  are  gala 
times  after  dinner ;  and  there  is  a  great  deal  of  amusement,  but  always  kept  under 
.strict  discipline,  and  regulated  by  the  strictest  propriety.  There  is,  on  no  occasion, 
cause  for  ciiiun'.  or  a  lack  of  anecdote  or  interesting  narrative  ;  or  indeed  of  any  in- 
tellectual ainuscment  ;   for    if  sinokiiio-   and  stoi'v-telliuii-  be  irksome,  then  there  is  the 


horse  ready  to  mount,  and  the  riile  prepared.  The  voyageur  and  the  traj^per,  who 
have  traversed  thousands  of  miles  through  wild  and  unfrequented  regions ;  and  the 
mariner,  who  has  circumnavigated  the  globe,  may  be  found  grouped  together,  smoking, 
joking,  singing  and  story  telling ;  and  in  every  way  banishing  dull  care,  till  the  period 
of  their  again  setting  out  for  their  respective  destinations  arrives.  The  smoking  room 
or  '  bachelor's  hall,'  presents  the  appearance  of  an  armoury  and  a  museum.  All  sorts 
of  weapons,  and  dresses,  and  curiosities  of  civilized  and  savage  life,  and  of  the  various 
implements  for  the  prosecution  of  the  trade,  may  be  seen  there.  The  mechanics,  and 
other  servants  f)f  the  establishment,  do  not  dine  in  the  hall  or  go  to  the  smoking  room. 

"  The  school  is  for  the  benefit  of  the  half  breed  children  of  the  officers  and  ser- 
vants of  the  company,  and  of  many  orphan  children  of  Indians  who  have  been  in  the 
company's  employment.  They  are  taught  English  (sometimes  French),  writing,  arith- 
metic and  geography  ;  and  are  subsequently  either  apprenticed  to  traders  in  Canada  ; 
or  kept  in  the  company's  service.  The  front  squai-e  is  the  place  where  the  Indians  and 
trappers  deposit  their  furs,  and  other  articles,  and  make  their  sales,  etc.  There  may  be 
seen,  too,  great  numbers  of  men  sorting  and  packing  the  various  goods  ;  and  scores  of 
Canadians  beating  and  cleaning  the  furs  from  the  dust  and  vermin,  and  coarse  hairs, 
previous  to  exportation.  Six  hundred  yards  below  the  fort,  and  o)i  the  bank  of  the 
river,  there  is  a  neat  village,  of  about  sixty  well  built  wooden  houses,  generally  con- 
structed like  those  within  the  fort ;  in  which  the  mechanics,  and  other  servants  of  the 
company,  who  are  in  general  Canadians  and  Scotchmen,  reside  with  their  families. 
They  are  built  in  rows,  and  present  the  appearance  of  small  streets.  They  are  kept 
in  a  neat  and  orderly  manner.  Here  there  is  an  hospital,  in  which  the  invalided  sei'- 
vants  of  the  company,  and,  indeed,  others  who  may  wish  to  avail  themselves  of  it,  are 
treated  with  the  utmost  care. 

"  Many  of  the  officers  of  the  company  marry  half  breed  women.  They  discharge 
the  several  duties  of  wife  and  mother  with  fidelity,  cleverness  and  attention.  They 
are,  in  general,  good  housewives ;  and  are  remarkably  ingenious  as  needlewomen. 
Many  of  them,  besides  possessing  a  knowledge  of  English,  speak  French  correctly,  and 
possess  other  accomplishments  ;  and  they  sometimes  attend  their  husbands  on  their  dis- 
tant and  tedious  journeys  and  voyages.  These  half  breed  women  are  of  a  superior 
class;  being  the  daughters  of  chief  traders  and  factors,  and  other  persons,  high  in  the 
company's  service,  by  Indian  women  of  a  sujjerior  descent  or  of  superior  jiersonal  at- 
tractions. Though  they  generally  dress  after  the  English  fashion,  according  as  they 
see  it  used  by  the  English  wives  of  the  superior  officers,  yet  they  retain  one  peculiarity 
— the  leggin  or  gaiter,  which  is  made  (now  that  the  tanned  deer  skin  has  been  super- 
seded) of  the  finest,  and  most  gaudy  coloured  cloth,  beautifully  ornamented  wdth  beads. 
The  lower  classes  of  the  company's  servants  marry  native  women,  from  the  tribes  of 
the  upper  country  ;  where  the  women  are  round-headed  and  beautiful.  These,  too, 
generally  speaking,  soon  learn  the  art  of  useful  housewifery  with  great  adroitness  and 
readiness;  and  they  are  encouraged  and  rewarded  in  everyway  by  the  company,  in 
their  efforts  to  acquii-e  domestic  economy  and  comfort.  These,  too,  imitate,  in  costume 
the  dress  of  the  officers'  wives,  as  much  as  they  can  ;  and  from .  their  necessities  of  ])o- 
sition,  which  exposes  them  more  to  wet  and  drudgery,  they  retain  the  moccasin,  in 
l)lace  of  adopting  tlie  low-quartered  shoe. 


OREGON.  117 

"  Attached  to  the  tljrt  there  is  a  luagnificent  farm  ;  con.sisting  of  about  3,000  acres  - 
of  which  l,oOO  acres  have  been  already  brought  to  the  liighest  state  of  tilhige.  It 
stretches  behind  the  fort,  and  on  both  sides,  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  It  is  fenced 
into  beautiful  corn  fields — vegetable  fields — orchards — gardens — and  pasture  fields, 
which  are  interspersed  with  dairy  houses,  shepherds'  and  herdsmen's  cottages.  It  is 
placed  under  the  most  judicious  management  ;  and  neither  expense  nor  labour  has  been 
spared  to  bring  it  to  the  most  perfect  cultivation.  There  is  a  large  grist  mill,  and  a 
threshing  mill,  which  are  worked  by  liorse  power  ;  and  a  saw  mill  worked  by  water 
power.  All  kinds  of  grains  and  vegetables,  and  many  species  of  fruits,  are  jjroduced 
there  in  abundance  and  of  superior  quality.  The  grain  crops  are  produced  without 
manure  ;  and  the  wheat  crojt,  esjiecially,  is  i-epresented  by  practical  farmers  to  be  won- 
derful. 

"  Besides  this  farm,  which  they  are]"every  day  extending,  they  have  commenced 
farming  on  a  large  scale  on  the  Cowlitze,  to  the  north  ;  Umpqua,  to  the  south  ;  and  in 
other  parts  of  the  territory,  where  they  have  established  posts,  the  produce  of  all  of  which 
they  use  for  exportation  both  to  the  Russian  stations  in  Kamskatka  (as  they  entered 
into  a  contract  with  the  Russians,  in  18o9,  to  supply  their  posts  in  those  regions  with 
provisions  at  fixed  prices),  and  to  the  islands  in  the  Southern  Pacific  ;  and  to  British 
and  American  whalers  and  to  other  merchant  ships.  They  also  keep  scores  of  wood 
cutters,  employed  to  fell  timber,  which  is  sawed  up  in  large  quantities — 3,000  feet  a 
day,  and  regularly  shipped  for  the  Sandwich  islands,  and  other  foreign  ports.  And  as 
they  can  afford  to  sell  the  goods  purchased  in  England  under  a  contract  of  old  standing, 
together  with  the  productions  of  the  territory  and  their  own  farms — fish,  beef,  mutton, 
pork,  timber,  etc.,  at  nearly  half  the  American  price,  they  are  likely  to  engross  the 
whole  trade  of  the  Pacific,  as  they  do  already  the  trade  of  the  Oregon  ;  especially  since 
they  command  all  the  ports  and  safe  inlets  of  the  country.  This  the  Americans  feel 
and  declare  ;  and  it  is  this  which  whets  their  cupidity,  and  excites  their  jealousv  and 
hatred. 

"  Trap})ing  [larties  leaving  Vancouver  are  some  weeks  pre2)aring  for  the  mountains 
and  prairies.  The  blacksmiths  are  busily  engaged  making  beaver  traps  for  the  trap- 
pers— the  store  keepers  making  up  articles  for  trade,  and  equipping  the  men,  the  clerk 
in  charge  of  the  provision  store  packing  up  provisions  for  them,  to  last  until  they  get 
into  hunting  ground,  the  clerk  in  charge  of  the  farm  providing  horses,  and  other  re- 
(juisite  articles.  Tlie  party  generally  consists  of  about  fifty  or  sixty  men — most  of  them 
the  company's  servants — others,  free  hunters.  The  servants  have  a  stated  salary,  while 
the  freemen  receive  so  much  per  skin.  Previous  to  leaving  the  fort  for  the  arduous 
adventure  they  are  allowed  a  small  quantity  of  rum  per  man  ;  and  they  generally  en- 
joy a  grand  holiday  and  feast  the  night  previous  to  starting.  Each  man  has  a  certain 
number  of  horses,  sufficient  to  carry  his  equipment.  The  free  trappers  generally  pro- 
vide their  own  animals.  Both  the  company's  servants  and  the  frepm(>n  freijuentlv  take 
their  wives  and  families  with  them;  the  women  are  very  useful  nn  the  ('X|ieditioii,  in 
])reparing  meals  and  other  necessaries  for  their  husbands  during  their  absi'uce  from 
the  camp.  In  summer  and  winter,  whether  they  liave  a  sort  of  a  traveling  camp  or  a 
fixed  rc-iidence,  they  select  the  localities  that  most  abound  in  fur-ljearing  animals. 
Though  ;i  oai-ty  iiiav  be  obliued,  fnnn  a  varietv  of  circumstances,  to  winter  in  the  plain, 


118  OREGON. 

or  iu  the  recesses  of  the  niouutaiiis  ;  or  on  the  borders  of  hikes  and  rivers,  some  num- 
bers of  it  return  to  the  fort  at  the  fall,  with  the  produce  of  the  season's  hunt,  and  re- 
port progress  ;  and  return  to  the  camp  with  a  reinforcement  of  necessary  supplies. 
Thus  the  comjiany  are  enabled  to  acquire  a  minute  knowledge  of  the  country  and  the 
natives;  and  extend  their  power  and  authority  over  both." 

Such  was  the  hold  the  Hudson's  Bay  Companj-  had  upon  Oregon  when  Americans 
attempted  to  enter  the  country  and  exercise  their  rights  under  the  "treaty  of  joint  oc- 
cupancy. To  show  how  American  trappers  first  extended  their  operations  into  the 
disputed  country,  requires  a  short  sketch  of  the  American  fur  trade. 

In  1762,  while  Louisiana  was  still  a  province  of  France,  its  governor  chartered  a 
fur  company  under  the  name  of  Pierre  Ligueste  Laclede,  Antoine  Maxan  &  Co.  La- 
clede established  St.  Louis  the  following  year,  and  it  became  a  headquarters  for  the  fur 
trade  similar  to  Mackinaw  and  Montreal.  The  business  of  this  company  and  many 
others  that  engaged  along  the  Missouri  in  the  trap^Ding  of  beaver  became  very  large. 
The  acquisition  of  Louisiana  by  the  United  States  threw  this  tnide  into  the  hands  of 
the  Americans.  In  1815,  congress  passed  an  act  expelling  British  traders  from  all 
the  territories  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  the  American  Fur  Company,  at  the 
head  of  which  Mr.  Astor  had  been  for  many  years,  bsgan  to  send  trappers  to  the  head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  rivers.  American  trappers  also  i^enetrated  into 
New  Mexico  and  established  a  trade  between  St.  Louis  and  Santa  Fe.  Up  to  this 
time  but  one  attempt  had  been  made  by  trajjpers  to  penetrate  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  that  was  in  1808,  by  the  M  issouri  Fur  Company,  at  the  head  of  which  was  a 
Spaniard  named  Manuel  Lisa.  Posts  were  established  on  the  upper  Missouri  and  one 
on  Lewis  river,  the  south  branch  of  the  Columbia  ;  but  the  failure  of  sup]:)lies  and 
the  hostilitv  of  the  savages  caused  its  abandonment  by  the  manager,  Mr.  Henry,  in 
1810. 

In  1823,  Gen.  W.  H.  Ashley,  a  St.  Louis  merchant  long  engaged  in  the  fur  trade, 
pushed  a  trapping  party  into  the  Rocky  mountains.  He  went  up  the  Platte  to  the 
Sweetwater,  and  up  that  stream  to  its  source,  discovered  the  South  pass,  explored  the 
liead-waters  of  the  Colorado  (or  Green)  river,  and  returned  to  St.  Louis  in  the  fall. 
The  next  year  he  again  penetrated  the  mountains  and  built  a  trading  fort  on  Lake 
Ashley,  near  Great  Salt  Lake,  both  of  which  bodies  of  water  were  discovered  b}-  him 
that  year,  and  returned,  leaving  there  one  hundred  men.  From  that  time  the  head- 
waters of  the  Missouri  and  its  tributaries,  the  Green  and  Columbia  rivers  and  their 
tributaries,  were  the  trapping-ground  of  hundreds  of  daring  men,  whose  wild  and 
rackless  life,  privations  and  encounters  with  the  savages,  make  a  theme  of  romance 
that  has  occupied  the  jjen  of  Washington  Irving  and  many  authors  of  lesser  note,  and 
been  the  source  from  which  the  novelists  of  the  sensational  school  have  drawn  a  wealth 
of  material.  It  was  the  custom  to  divide  the  trappers  into  bands  of  sufiicient  strength 
to  defend  themselves  against  the  attacks  of  savages,  and  send  them  out  in  different 
directions  during  the  trapping  season,  to  assemble  the  next  summer  at  a  grand  rendez- 
vous previously  appointed,  the  head-waters  of  Green  river  being  the  favorite  locality 
for  the  annual  meeting. 

In  the  spring  of  1825,  Jetleliah  S.  Smith  lei  a  company  of  this  kind,  consisting 
of  about  forty  men,  into   the  countrv  west  of  Great  Salt  Lake,  discovered  Humlwldt 


river  and  named  it  Mary's  river,  followed  down  that  stream  and  crossed  the  Sierra 
Nevada  into  the  great  valley  in  July.  He  collected  a  large  quantity  of  furs,  estab- 
lished a  headquarters  on  the  American  river  near  Folsom,  and  then,  with  two  com- 
panions, recrossed  the  mountains  through  Walker's  pass,  and  returned  to  the  general 
rendezvous  on  Green  river,  to  tell  of  the  wonderful  valley  he  had  visited.  Cronise 
speaks  of  American  trappers  having  penetrated  into  California  as  early  as  1820,  but 
is  evidently  mistaken,  as  there  is  no  record  of  any  party  crossing  the  Rocky  mountains 
previous  to  the  expedition  of  Mr.  Ashley  in  1823,  save  those  already  mentioned. 
Jedediah  S.  Smith  must  stand  in  history  as  the  first  white  man  to  lead  a  party  over- 
land into  California.  The  return  of  Smith  with  such  a  valuable  collection  of  furs, 
and  specimens  of  filacer  gold  he  had  discovered  on  his  return  journey  near  Mono  lake, 
led  to  his  being  sent  again  the  next  season,  with  instructions  to  thoroughly  inspect  the 
gold  placers  on  the  way.  Tliis  time  he  went  as  a  jjartner,  Mr.  Ashley  having  sold  his 
interest  to  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  consisting  of  William  Sublette,  Jede- 
diah S.  Smith  and  David  Jackson.  He  passed  as  far  south  as  the  Colorado  river,  and 
there  had  a  battle  with  the  Indians,  in  which  all  but  himself,  Turner  and  Galbraith 
were  killed.  They  escaped  and  arrived  at  the  Mission  San  Gabriel,  where  they  were 
arrested  as  filibusters  and  sent  to  San  Diego,  but  were  released  upon  the  certificate  of 
the  officers  of  some  American  vessels  who  chanced  to  be  on  the  coast,  that  they  were 
peaceful  trappers  and  had  passports  from  the  commissioner  of  Indian  affairs.  This 
certificate  bears  date  December  20,  1826,  and  in  the  ensuing  May  we  find  them  in 
camp  near  San  Jose,  where  the  following  letter  was  written  to  Father  Duran,  who  had 
sent  to  know  what  their  presence  there  signified  : — 

Reverend  Fathe;,  ; — I  understand,  through  the  medium  of  one  of  your  Christian  Indians, 
that  you  are  anxious  to  know  who  we  are,  as  some  of  the  Indians  have  been  at  the  mission  and 
informed  you  that  there  were  certain  white  people  in  the  country.  We  are  xVmericans  on  our 
journey  to  the  River  Columbia  ;  we  were  in  at  the  Mission  San  Gabriel  in  January  last.  I  went  to 
San  Diego  and  saw  the  general,  and  got  a  passjjort  from  him  to  pass  on  to  that  place.  I  have  made 
several  efforts  to  cross  the  mountains,  but  the  snows  being  so  deep,  I  could  not  succeed  in  getting 
over.  I  returned  to  this  place  (it  being  the  only  point  to  kill  meat),  to  wait  a  few  weeks  until  the 
snow  melts  so  that  I  can  go  on  :  the  Indians  here  also  being  friendly,  I  consider  it  the  most  safe 
point  for  me  to  remain,  until  such  time  as  I  can  cross  the  mountains  with  my  horses,  having  lost  a 
great  many  in  attempting  to  cross  ten  or  fifteen  days  since.  I  am  a  long  ways  from  home,  and  am 
anxious  to  get  there  as  soon  as  the  nature  of  the  case  will  admit.  Our  situation  is  quite  unpleas- 
ant, being  destitute  of  clothing  and  most  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  wild  meat  being  our  jjrincipal 
subsistence.     I  am,  Reverend  Father,  your  strange  but  real  friend  and  Christian  brother. 

•T.   S    Smith. 
May  19th,  1827. 

Smith  had  united  himself  with  the  party  he  had  left  in  1825  on  the  American 
river,  and  who  had  been  very  successful  during  his  absence,  and  now  that  he  could 
not  cro.ss  the  Sierra  Nevada,  decided  to  penetrate  north  to  the  Columbia  and  follow 
up  that  stream  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  expecting  to  join  his  jiartners  at  the  Green 
river  rendezvous.  Near  the  liead  of  the  Sacramento  valley  the  party  cro.ssed  the 
Coast  Range  to  the  west,  reaching  the  ocean  near  the  mouth  of  Ru.ssian  river,  and  con- 
tinued up  the  coast  to  the  Umpcpia.  While  sto[)i)ing  here  to  construct  a  raft  for  the 
purpose  of  ferrying  their  effects  across  the  stream,  their  camp  was  suddenly  attacked 
by  Indians  with  whom  they  were  holding  friendly  intercourse,  and  all  ])ut  three  were 
slain.     Smitli.  Daniel  Prioi',  and  an  Indian  were  on  the  raft  at  the  time  of  the  attack 


120  OEEGON. 

and  when  the  signal  yell  was  given  the  Indian  seized  Smith's  rifle  and  sprung  into  the 
water ;  but  the  old  mountaineer  grasped  his  companion's  gun,  and  as  soon  as  the 
treacherous  rascal  thrust  his  head  out  of  water  to  catch  a  breath,  sent  a  bullet  through 
his  brain.  The  two  men  then  landed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  and  started  on 
foot  for  Vancouver,  which  they  eventually  reached  in  safety.  The  third  one  who 
escaped  was  Richard  Laughlin,  who  seized  a  burning  brand  from  the  fire  and  with 
vigorous  blows  upon  the  naked  bodies  of  the  savages  cleared  a  passage  for  himself 
through  the  assailants  and  escaped  uninjured.  After  enduring  many  hardships  he, 
too,  reached  the  company's  headquarters  on  the  Columbia. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  made  it  an  inflexible  rule  to  treat  the  natives 
justly  and  even  liberally,  to  give  them  no  cause  of  offense  or  complaint  ;  but  to  main- 
tain respect  for  their  power  and  authority  and  to  show  the  natives  that  their  conduct 
was  not  inspired  by  fear,  they  never  failed  to  punish  offending  tribes  or  individuals  in 
such  a  manner  as  would  be  a  perpetual  warning  to  them  in  the  future.  It  happened 
that  Governor  Simpson  was  at  Fort  Vancouver  at  the  time  Smith  arrived  in  such  a 
forlorn  condition,  and  he  sent  out  a  party  under  Thomas  McKay,  son  of  Alexander 
McKay,  the  partner  of  Mr.  Astor  who  perished  on  the  Tonquin,  to  jHinish  the  Indians 
and  recover  the  captured  property,  both  as  a  necessary  step  to  maintain  the  company's 
authority  and  as  an  act  of  courtesy  to  the  despoiled  trader.  Accounts  vary  as  to  the 
degree  of  punishment  inflicted,  but  at  all  events  the  furs  were  recovered  and  conveyed 
to  Vancouver,  and  since  he  could  not  carry  them,  having  no  means,  and  since  the 
company,  from  a  business  point  of  view,  could  not  afford  to  provide  him  with  facilities 
for  carrying  on  opposition  to  it,  he  sold  the  whole  lot  to  the  company  for  $40,000. 
Though  this  was  much  below  the  market  price  in  St.  Louis,  it  was  a  pretty  fair  valu- 
ation for  them  on  the  Columbia.  The  most  minute  account  of  this  transaction  is  given 
by  Rev.  Gustavus  Hines,  to  whom  it  was  related  by  Dr.  McLaiighliu,  chief  factor  of 
the  company,  a  few  years  subsequently.  But  one  writer  has  seriously  questioned  the 
correctness  of  these  statements.  Gray's  History  of  Oregon  states  that  the  property 
was  recovered  "  by  giving  them  presents  of  blankets  and  powder,  and  such  things  as 
the  Indians  wished,  as  stated  to  us  by  a  Frenchman,  a  servant  of  the  company,  who 
was  one  of  Mr.  McKay's  party  that  went  to  get  the  furs.  They  found  no  bodies  to 
bury,  and  had  no  fight  with  the  Indians  about  the  property,  as  stated  by  Mr.  Smith, 
also.  But,  as  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  tells  the  story  through  Mr.  Hines,  they 
'  spread  terror  through  the  tribes.'  '''  '''  Mr.  Hines  says  his  Umpqua  party 
*  returned  in  triumph  to  Vancouver.''  And  well  they  might,  for  they  had  made  the 
best  season's  hunt  they  ever  made,  in  getting  those  furs  and  the  property  of  Smiths 
which  paid  them  well  for  the  expedition,  as  there  was  no  market  for  Smith,  except 
London,  through  the  hypocritical  kindness  of  Mr.  Simpson.  By  this  time,  Mr.  Smith 
had  learned  all  he  wished  to  of  this  company.  He  preferred  giving  them  his  furs  at 
their  own  price  to  being  under  any  further  obligations  to  them.  Mr.  Sublette,  Mr. 
Smith's  partner,  did  not  speak  as  though  he  felt  under  much  obligation  to  Mr.  Simp- 
son or  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  was  not  long  after  the  transaction  referred 
to.  I  do  not  know  how  the  company  regard  these  statements  of  Mr.  Hines,  yet  I 
regard  them  as  true  so  far  as  ]Mr.  Hines  is  concerned,  but  utterly  false  as  regards  the 
com^^any.         '•'         '="         '='         According  to  the  testimony  given  in  the  case  of  the 


Hudson's  Bay  Company  rx.  United  States,  the  amount  of  furs  seized  by  the  company 
at  that  time  was  forty  packs,  worth  at  the  time  |1,000  each,  besides  the  animals  and 
equipments  belonging  to  the  i^ai'ty,  a  large  portion  of  which  was  given  to  the  Indians, 
to  comj^ensate  them  for  their  services  rendered  to  the  company,  in  destroying  Smith's 
expedition  and  killing  his  men." 

When  it  is  known  that  the  author  of  tlie  above  bears  such  bitter  hatred  towards 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  the  officers  who  represented  it  in  Oregon  that  he  can- 
not even  hear  the  name  mentioned  without  bristling  up  in  anger,  and  that  this  feeling- 
grew  out  of  early  missionary  feuds,  the  hated  company  having  supported  the  Catholic 
missionaries,  opponents  of  this  gentleman  and  his  associates  in  the  Protestant  missions 
it  will  be  understood  how,  having  been  thus  carried  beyond  the  verge  of  reason,  he 
could  make  such  deliberate  charges  of  inhumanity  against  men  well  known  to  have 
been  possessed  of  more  than  ordinary  integrity,  benevolence  and  morality  That  the 
company's  policy  was  to  break  down  all  opposition,  is  true ;  that  in  order  to  do  this 
they  strictly  enjoined  all  Indians  over  whom  they  exercised  any  control  from  dealing 
with  independent  traders  or  selling  them  supplies,  and  instructed  the  agents  at  their 
various  posts  to  refuse  supplies  and  ammunition  to  them,  except  when  it  became  a  case 
of  pure  humanity,  is  also  true  ;  but  that  it  ever  encouraged  the  thought  among  the  na- 
tives that  it  would  be  pleased  by  the  murder  of  Americans  is  not  susceptible  of  proof, 
and  the  idea  is  as  inconsistent  with  well  known  facts  as  it  is  wdtli  the  character  of  the 
men  who  administered  the  company's  affairs  in  Oregon.  Dr.  John  McLaughlin  was 
one  of  nature's  noblemen,  kind  and  benevolent  in  character  and  in  manners  a  thor- 
ough gentleman.  Undeserved  abuse  has  been  heaped  upon  his  head  by  his  enemies 
without  stint,  many  of  whom  display  the  basest  ingratitude  in  so  doing.  Though 
instructed  by  the  company  to  oppose  the  settlement  of  Americans  and  to  refuse  to  sell 
them  supplies,  his  kind  heart  would  not  permit  him  to  carry  out  the  injunction.  The 
needy  pioneer  never  applied  to  him  in  vain  He  not  only  sold  them  supplies  but  gave 
them  credit,  many  of  them  never  settling  their  scores  ,  and  for  this  he  was  in  later 
years  dismissed  from  his  position  and  compelled  by  the  company  to  pay  from  his  own 
pocket  all  that  was  owing  from  these  ungrateful  men  who  at  that  very  time  were  vili- 
fying his  name,  being  thus  brought  to  the  verge  of  l)ankruptcy.  It  is  needless  to  go 
into  further  details,  for  all,  save  a  few  whom  blind  prejudice  holds  in  chains,  bear  testi- 
mony to  the  grandeur  of  Dr.  McLaughlin's  character.  As  for  Tom  McKay  he  was 
universally  respected  liy  whites  and  Indians  for  his  sterling  integrity,  and  because  of 
this  held  greater  influence  over  the  Indians  of  this  region  than  any  man  before  or 
since.  He  took  up  land  in  the  Willamette  valley  and  lived  as  an  American  citizen, 
loved  and  respected  to  the  day  of  his  death.  .  To  ascribe  such  conduct  to  men  like 
this  is  to  show  that  judgment  has  been  so  distorted  by  prejudice  as  to  be  valueless. 

Smitli's  party  was  the  first  band  of  American  trappers  to  visit  this  region,  and  as 
their  presence  was  unsuspected  by  the  company  it  is  impossible  that  the  Indians  could 
have  been  stirred  up  against  them.  A  few  years  later,  when  the  American  traders 
were  better  known  here  and  settlers  began  to  arrive,  the  distinction  between  the  Bostons 
(Americans)  and  King  George  men  (Englishmen),  became  better  known,  and  the  In- 
dians became  prejudiced  against  the  former  for  reasons  that  will  be  given  in  speaking 
of  American  settlements.     Dunn  relates  an    incident   which   shows  this  sinrit  in  after 


122  OREGON. 

years  among  the  savages,  and  which  also  shows  that  it  was  not  fostered  by  the  company, 
He  says  : 

"  On  one  occasion  an  American  vessel,  Captain  Thompson,  was  in  the  Columbia, 
ti-ading  for  furs  and  salmon.  The  vessel  had  got  aground,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  river, 
and  the  Indians,  from  various  quarters,  mustered  with  the  intent  of  cutting  the  Ameri- 
cans off,  thinking  that  they  had  an  opportunity  of  revenge,  and  would  thus  escape  the 
censure  of  the  comjiany.  Dr.  M'Laughlin,  the  governor  of  Fort  Vancouver,  hearing 
of  their  intention,  immediately  dispatched  a  party  to  their  rendezvous;  and  informed 
them  that  if  they  injured  one  American,  it  would  be  just  the  same  offense  as  if  they 
had  injured  one  of  his  servants,  and  they  would  be  treated  equally  as  enemies.  This 
stunned  them  ;  and  they  relinquished  their  purpose  ;  and  all  retired  to  their  respective 
homes.     Had  not  this  come  to  the  governor's  ears  the  Americans  must  have  perished." 

A  i^arty  of  trappers  was  then  sent  out  from  Vancouver  to  penetrate  into  California, 
headed  by  Alexander  Roderick  McLeod  and  guided  by  one  of  the  survivors  of  the 
Umpqua  massacre.  They  passed  through  Rogue  river  valley,  over  Siskiyou  mountain, 
and  entered  California  by  the  way  of  the  Sacramento  river,  trapping  along  the  streams 
that  course  through  the  valley.  In  the  early  part  of  the  winter  they  were  caught  in 
a  severe  snow  storm  on  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Sacramento,  in  Shasta  county, 
and  narrowly  escaped  starvation.  They  lost  their  horses  and  were  in  a  sad  plight.  Joe 
McLaughlin,  son  of  the  chief  factor,  set  out  on  foot  with  a  companion  to  procure  aid 
from  Vancouver,  and  reached  that  place  after  much  hardship  and  privation.  McLeod 
did  not  wait,  however,  but  cached  his  furs,  which  were  extremely  valuable,  and  strug- 
gled through  to  Vancouver  with  the  remainder  of  his  men.  Another  party  was  then 
dispatched  to  recover  the  peltries,  but  found  them  spoiled.  The  stream  which  wit- 
nessed his  misfortune  was  ever  afterwards  called  McLeod  (now  improperly  spelled  Mc- 
Cloud)  by  his  companion  trappers. 

Before  the  return  of  this  unfortunate  party  to  the  fort,  another,  under  Peter 
Ogden  and  accompanied  by  Smith,  started  for  the  new  trapping  grounds  by  another 
route.  They  passed  up  the  Columbia  and  Lewis  rivers  to  the  source  of  the  latter,  at 
which  2:)oint  Smith  left  them  and  returned  to  the  rendezvous  on  Green  river,  to  report 
his  manifold  misfortunes.  He  sold  his  interest  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company 
in  1830,  and  the  next  year  was  treacherously  killed  by  Indians  while  digging  for 
water  in  the  dry  bed  of  the  Cimeron  river,  near  Taos,  New  Mexico,  and  was  buried 
there  by  his  companions.  After  Smith  took  his  leave  on  Lewis  river  Ogden's  party 
continued  south  to  Mary's  or  Humboldt  river,  which  was  thereafter  known  as  Ogden's 
river  by  the  English,  continued  down  that  stream  to  the  sink  and  crossed  over  the 
mountains  to  California  through  Walker's  pass.  They  trapped  along  the  Sacramento 
and  followed  McLeod's  trail  back  to  Vancouver.  From  that  time  till  it  became  a  por- 
tion of  the  United  States  in  1846,  California  was  one  of  the  regular  trapping  grounds 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

The  second  party  of  American  trappers  to  enter  Oregon  was  that  of  Major  Pileher. 
They  left  Green  river  in  1828,  and  passed  along  the  western  base  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains to  Flathead  lake,  where  they  wintered.  In  the  spring  they  descended  Clarke's 
Fork  and  the  main  Columbia  to  Colville  river,  up  which  they  ascended  to  its  source 
and  started  on   their  return  eastward.      Gray  says  :    "  This  party  of  Major  Pileher 


OREGON.  123 

were  all  cut  off  but  two  men,  l)esicles  himself;  liis  furs,  as  stated  by  himself  to  the 
writer,  found  their  way  into  the  forts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company."  The  writer, 
though  not  stating  it  positively,  intends  to  convey  the  impression  that  these  men  were 
murdered  at  the  instigation  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  or  at  least  with  its  sanction. 
That  the  captured  furs  w^ere  sold  to  the  company  is  true,  but  as  that  was  the  only  mar- 
ket open  to  the  Indians  it  is  a  very  small  foundation  upon  which  to  lay  a  charge  of 
murder  against  the  purchasers.  The  next  band  of  American  trappers  was  that  of 
Ewing  Young,  who  had  been  for  years  a  leader  of  trapping  parties  from  Santa  Fe  to 
the  head  waters  of  the  Del  Norte,  Rio  Grande  and  Colorado  rivers.  He  entered  Cali- 
fornia through  Walker's  pa,ss  in  1829,  and  returned  the  next  year.  In  1832  he  again 
entered  California  and  followed  Smith's  route  into  Oregon  as  far  as  the  Umjiqua,  when 
he  turned  eastward,  crossed  the  mountains  to  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Columbia 
and  Snake  rivers,  entered  Sacramento  valley  again  from  the  north,  and  finally  crossed 
out  by  the  Tejon  pass,  having  been  absent  from  Santa  Fe  two  years.  Mr.  Young  soon 
returned,  and  became  one  of  the  first  and  most  energetic  of  the  American  settlers  in 
Oregon. 

When  Smith  sold  his  interest  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  in  1830, 
William  Sublette  and  David  Jackson  retired  also,  and  the  new  partners  were  Milton 
Sublette,  James  Bridger,  Robert  Campbell,  Thomas  Fitzpatrick,  Frapp  and  Jarvais. 
In  1831  the  old  American  Fur  Company,  which  had  been  managed  so  long  by  Mr. 
Astor  but  was  now  directed  by  Ramsey  Crooks,  began  to  push  into  the  trapping 
grounds  of  the  other  company.  Great  rivalry  sprung  up  between  them,  which  was  the 
following  year  intensified  by  the  appearance  of  two  other  competitors  in  the  persons  of 
Captain  B.  L.  E.  Bonneville  and  Nathaniel  J.  Wyeth.  Captain  Bonneville  was  a 
United  States  army  ofiicer,  who  had  been  given  permission  to  lead  a  party  of  trappers 
into  the  fur  regions  of  the  northwest,  the  expedition  being  countenanced  by  the  govern- 
ment only  to  the  extent  of  this  permit.  It  was  supposed,  that,  by  such  an  undertaking, 
sufficient  additional  information  of  the  region  explored  would  be  obtained  to  warrant 
authorizing  an  ofiicer  to  engage  in  a  private  venture.  The  captain  first  reached  the 
Rocky  mountains  in  1832.  In  1833  he  sent  Joseph  Walker  with  forty  men  to  Cali- 
fornia over  the  route  formerly  pursued  by  Smith,  and  on  Christmas  of  the  same  year 
started  with  three  companions  from  his  camp  on  Portneuf  river,  upon  an  expedition  to 
Fort  Walla  Walla.  His  object,  as  given  by  Irving,  was:  "To  make  himself  acquainted 
with  the  country,  and  the  Indian  tribes ;  it  being  one  part  of  his  scheme,  to  establish  a 
trading  post  somewhere  on  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  so  as  to  participate  in  the  trade 
lost  to  the  United  States  by  the  capture  of  Astoria."  He  reached  Powder  river  on  the 
twelfth  of  January,  1834,  whence  his  journey  was  continued  down  Snake  river  and  by 
the  Nez  Perce  trail  to  Fort  Walla  Walla,  where  he  arrived  March  4,  1834. 

This  journey,  in  mid-winter,  was  attended  with  its  accompanying  detail  of  hard- 
ships incident  to  the  season,  including  the  absence  of  game  and  presence  of  snow  in 
the  mountains.  At  one  time,  they  had  wandered  among  the  Blue  mountains,  lost  amid 
its  canyons  and  defiles  east  of  the  Grand  Ronde  valley,  for  twenty  days,  nearly  frozen 
and  constantly  starved,  until  they  were  at  the  verge  of  despair.  At  length,  a  Nez 
Perce  chief  was  met,  who  invited  them  to  his  lodge  some  twelve  miles  further  along 
the  trail  tlicy  were   traveling,  and   then  galloped   away.     So  great  had  been  the  strain 


upon  the  captain's  system  in  sustaining  these  successive  days  of  unnatural  exertion, 
that  when  the  chief  disappeared,  he  sunk  upon  the  ground  and  lay  there  like  one  dead. 
His  companions  tried  in  vain  to  arouse  him.  It  was  a  useless  effort,  and  they  were 
forced  to  camp  by  the  trail  until  he  awoke  from  this  trance  the  next  day  and  was 
enabled  to  move  on.  They  had  hardly  resumed  their  tedious  journey,  when  some 
dozen  Nez  Perces  rode  up  with  fresh  horses  and  carried  them  in  triumph  to  their  vil- 
lage. Everywhere,  after  this,  they  were  kindly  received  by  this  hospitable  people,  fed, 
cared  for  and  guided  on  their  way  by  them. 

Bonneville  and  his  two  companions  were  kindly  received  at  Fort  Walla  Walla  by 
Mr.  P  C.  Pambrun,  who,  with  five  or  six  men,  was  in  charge  of  that  station  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Walla  Walla  river.  This  Hudson's  Bay  Company  representative  wa.s  a 
courteous,  affable  host,  but  when  asked  to  sell  the  captain  supplies  that  would  enable 
his  return  to  the  Kocky  mountains :  "  That  worthy  superintendent,  who  had  extended 
all  the  genial  rights  of  hospitality,  now  suddenly  assumed  a  withered  up  aspect  and 
demeanor,  and  observed  that,  however  he  might  feel  disposed  to  serve  him  personally, 
he  felt  bound  by  his  duty  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  to  do  nothing  which  should 
facilitate  or  encourage  the  visits  of  other  traders  among  the  Indians  in  that  part  of  the 
country."  Bonneville  remained  at  the  fort  but  two  days,  for  his  destitute  condition, 
combined  with  the  lateness  in  the  season,  rendered  it  necessary  for  him  to  return  im- 
mediately ;  and  he  started  on  the  back  trail  with  his  Nez  Perce  guide,  and  finally 
reached  the  point  of  general  rendezvous  for  his  various  ex^jeditions.  This  is  a  true 
statement  of  the  position  assumed  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  its  agents  would  not 
themselves,  nor  would  they  permit  the  Indians  under  their  control  to  deal  with  or  in 
any  manner  assist  opposition  traders ;  but  that  Bonneville  traversed  the  country  in 
safety  with  but  three  companions  after  the  company  was  aware  of  his  intention  to  re- 
turn and  found  a  rival  establishment  on  the  Coluinbia,  is  convincing  evidence  that 
assassination  was  not  one  of  its  methods  of  overcoming  competition,  however  much 
such  charges  may  be  reiterated  by  its  enemies. 

In  July,  1834,  Bonneville  started  on  a  second  expedition  to  the  Columbia,  with  a 
formidable  number  of  trappers  and  mountain  men,  well  equipped,  and  with  an  exten- 
sive stock  of  goods  to  trafiic  with  Indians.  He  still  contemplated  a  restoration  of 
American  trade  in  this  country,  and  designed  establishing  a  post  for  that  purpose  in 
the  Willamette  valley.  This  time  he  passed  the  Blue  mountains  by  way  of  Grand 
Ronde  valley  and  the  Umatilla  river,  and  upon  his  arrival  at  the  mouth  of  that  stream, 
was  surprised  to  find  the  natives  shunning  him.  They  ran  from  his  men,  hid  them- 
selves, and  when  intercepted,  refused  to  have  anything  to  do  with  the  Americans. 
Not  a  skin,  a  horse,  a  dog,  or  a  fish  could  be  obtained  from  them,  having  been  warned 
by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  not  to  trafiic  with  these  new  comers.  It  now  seemed  a 
question  of  imme'diate  evacuation  or  starvation,  and  Bonneville  decided  to  abandon  his 
attempt  at  joint  occupancy.  Once  more  he  turned  his  back  upon  the  Columbia  and 
left  the  English  company  in  undisputed  possession  of  the  field. 

A  contemporaneous  effort  was  made  by  Nathaniel  J.  Wyetli,  a  Boston  mer- 
chant. With  eleven  men  who  knew  nothing  of  trapper-life,  he  crossed  the  plains  to 
Humboldt  river  with  Milton  Sublette  in  1832.  From  this  point  the  twelve  pushed 
north  to   Snake   river,  and   bv  wav  of   that   stream   to   Fort   Vancouver,  where  they 


"^^^■^":  .^/^^^!^-^riSk:^^^l^^^ 


arrived  October  21>.  The  fortune  of  Mr.  Wyeth  wa.s  invested  in  this  enterprise  and 
he  had  brought  a  stock  of  goods  with  him  not  well  adapted  to  the  Indian  market.  He 
was  hospitably  received  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The  next  spring  he  left  for 
the  East,  a  financial  bankrupt,  deserted  by  all  of  his  followers  except  two.  It  is  not 
recorded  that  the  company's  officers  in  any  way  contributed  towards  producing  this 
result ;  but,  if  they  did  not,  it  was  because  they  believed  it  unnecessary,  knowing  that 
failure  would  follow  without  their  manipulation.  Arriving  in  Boston,  Mr.  AVyeth 
organized  The  Columbia  River  Fishing  and  Trading  Comi^any,  with  a  view  of  con- 
tinuing operations  on  the  Pacific  coast  under  the  same  general  plan  that  had  formerly 
been  pursued  by  Astor,  proposing,  however,  to  add  salmon  fishing  to  the  fur  business. 
A  brig,  called  the  JIaij  Decres,  sailed  for  the  Columbia  river  with  stores,  and  Mr. 
Wvetli,  Avith  sixty  experienced  men,  started  for  the  same  place  across  the  continent  in 
1834.  Near  the  head  waters  of  Snake  river,  he  established  Fort  Hall  as  an  interior 
trading  post,  named  in  honor  of  one  of  his  partners,  where  he  left  twelve  men  and  a 
stock  of  goods.  He  then  pushed  forward  to  the  Columbia  and  erected  a  fort  on 
Sauvie's  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette  river,  which  he  called  Fort  Williams,  in 
honor  of  another  partner ;  and  again  tlie  American  flag  waved  over  soil  west  of  the 
Rocky  mountains. 

The  officers  of  the  company  again  received  him  with  much  h(jspitality,  and 
though  they  continued  to  treat  liim  with  courtesy,  this  did  not  prevent  them  from 
taking  the  steps  necessary  to  j^rotect  the  company's  interests.  Fort  Boise  was  estab- 
lished as  an  opposition  to  Fort  Hall  and  drew  the  bulk  of  the  trade  of  the  Indians 
of  Snake  river.  (3n  the  Columbia  Wyeth  found  that  the  natives  were  so  completely 
under  the  control  of  the  company  that  he  could  establish  no  business  relations  with 
them  whatever.  In  two  years  he  was  compelled  to  sell  all  his  possessions,  including 
Fort  Hall,  to  the  rival  company,  and  abandon  this  second  effort  at  joint  occupation. 

In  1835  the  two  rival  American  companies  were  consolidated  as  the  American 
Fur  Company,  Bridger,  Fontenelle  and  Briggs  lieing  the  leadei's.  The  retirement  of 
Bonneville  and  the  sale  of  Fort  Hall  by  Mr.  Wyeth  left  only  the  consolidated  com- 
pany and  a  few  "  lone  traders"  to  compete  with  the  English  corporation.  For  a  few 
years  longer  the  struggle  was  maintained,  but  gradually  the  Hudson's  Bay  Comj^any 
absorbed  the  trade  until  the  American  trappers,  so  far  as  organized  eff(irt  was  con- 
cerned, aliandoned  the  field. 

The  chief  secret  of  the  failure  of  Americans  and  the  success  of  the  Englisii — and 
it  is  best  to  be  candid  in  this  matter — was  the  radical  difference  in  their  methods  of 
conducting  the  business.  The  American  trapjiers  were,  to  a  large  extent,  made  up  of 
a  class  of  wild,  reckless  and  brutal  men,  many  of  them  fugitives  from  justice.  With 
them  might  made  right,  and  the  privilege  of  shooting  Indians  was  considered  an  in- 
herent right  which  should  be  exercised  as  often  as  circumstances  permitted.  They 
were  insubordinate  anil  quarrelsome,  and  the  histories  of  their  adventurous  lives,  even 
those  written  for  the  glorification  of  Kit  Carson,  Joe  Meek,  Jim  Beckwourth  and  oth- 
ers, convince  us  that  these  men  composed  the  lowest  stratum  of  American  s(jciety. 
Irving,  in  one  of  many  similar  passages,  says  :  "  The  arrival  of  the  supplies  gave 
the  regular  finish  to  the  annual  revel.  A  grand  outbreak  of  wild  debauch  ensued 
among  [the   niduntaineeis  ;  drinking,   dancing,   swaggering,  gand)ling,  ([uarreling  and 


126  OREGON. 

fighting.  Alcohol,  which,  from  its  jiortable  qualities,  containing  the  greatest  quantity 
of  fiery  spirit  in  the  smallest  compass,  is  the  only  liquor  carried  across  the  mountains, 
is  the  inflammatory  Ijeverage  at  these  carousals,  and  is  dealt  out  to  the  trappers  at  four 
dollars  a  pint.  When  inflamed  by  this  fiery  beverage,  they  cut  all  kinds  of  mad 
pranks  and  gambols,  and  sometimes  burn  all  their  clothes  in  their  drunken  bravadoes. 
A  camj),  recovering  from  one  of  these  riotous  revels,  presents  a  serio-comic  spectacle  ; 
black  eyes,  broken  heads,"lack  lustre  visages."  Alcohol  was  a  leading  article  of  mer- 
chandise, and  the  annual  assemblage  at  the  points  of  rendezvous  and  the  meetings 
with  Indians  for  the  purposes  of  trade,  were  invariably  the  scenes  of  drunken  de- 
bauchery like  the  one  described.  Many  impositions  were  practiced  on  the  Indians, 
and  the  men,  being  irresponsible  and  without  restraint,  were  guilty  of  many  acts  of 
injustice.  The  Indians  learned  neither  uprightness  nor  morality  from  contact  with 
them,  and  had  respect  only  for  their  bravery. 

On  the  other  hand  the  servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  men,  chiefly 
half-breeds  and  French  Canadians,  who  had  been  reared  in  the  business,  as  were  their 
fathei-s  before  them,  and  cheerfully  submitted  to  the  rigid  discipline  maintained  by  the 
company.  It  was  the  j^olicy  of  the  company  to  avoid  all  trouble  with  the  natives,  to 
whom  they  gave  no  liquor  whatever,  and,  by  just  and  even  generous  treatment,  bind 
the  Indians  to  them  by  a  community  of  interest ;  yet  it  never  let  an  act  of  treachery 
or  bad  faith  go  unpunished.  Thus,  by  an  exhibition  of  justness  and  moral  behavior 
on  one  hand  and  power  on  the  other,  it  maintained  unquestioned  authority  among  the 
savages  of  a  hundred  tribes  and  over  thousands  of  miles  of  wilderness.  Had  the 
American  companies  pursued  the  same  jjolicy  as  their  great  English  rival,  far  different 
would  have  been  the  result  of  their  enterprises.  Fortunately  for  America  she  was  not 
compelled  to  rely  upon  reckless  trajjpers  for  her  dominion  in  Oregon.  Fur  traders 
could  not  gain  it  for  her,  nor  could  they  hold  it  for  Great  Britain.  Plows  and  not 
steel  traps  were  to  settle  the  question  between  them. 

During  these  years  of  competition  in  the  fur  business,  diplomacy  was  also  at 
work.  Several  expeditions  were  sent  to  the  Rocky  mountains  by  the  United  States 
government,  to  report  upon  the  nature  of  the  country  and  its  adaptability  to  settlement. 
From  these  as  well  as  from  the  reports  of  trappers,  the  idea  was  spread  abroad,  that 
the  country  west  of  the  rocky  mountains  was  valueless  except  for  its  fur-bearing  ani- 
mals ;  and  this  idea  was  fostered  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  both  in  America  and 
England.  The  consequence  was  that  when  the  ten  years  of  joint  occupancy  had  ex- 
pired, such  was  the  apathy  of  congress  and  American  statesmen  on  the  subject,  that 
an  indefinite  extension  of  the  treaty  was  agreed  upon,  to  be  terminated  by  either  party 
upon  giving  notice  one  year  in  advance.  This  was  done  in  1828,  and  it  was  while  the 
extended  treaty  was  in  force  that  Bonneville  and  Wyeth  made  a  practical  test  of  its 
-workings. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


OREGON  MISSIONS  AND  SETTLEMENTS. 

Four  Flathead  Indians  in  St.  Louis  -The  Methodist  Mission-^The  Congreg-ational  Missions  Whitman  Takes 
a  Cart  to  Fort  Boise— American  Settlements— The  Wallamette  Cattle  Company  Progress  of  Missions  and 
Settlements — Advent  of  Catholic  Missionaries — Population  in  1840. 


There  siuklenly  a])2:)eared  in  St.  Louis  in  1832  four  Flathead  Indian:::.  It  was  a 
common  sight  to  see  Indians  of  a  dozen  tribes  lounging  about  the  streets  of  that  busy 
mart  and  mingling  with  the  conglomerate  crowd  of  idlers ;  but  these  were  different. 
They  had  not  come  to  carouse  or  drink  the  white  man's  firewater.  In  the  far  off  land 
of  Oregon  the  Flatheads  had  heard  that  the  white  man  had  a  different  religion  and  a 
different  God  from  that  of  his  red  brother,  and  that  this  was  the  secret  of  his  knowl- 
edge, wealth  and  power;  and  these  four  braves  had  been  delegated  by  their  tribe  to  go 
in  search  of  someone  who  would  teach  them  this  new  religion,  that  they,  too,  might 
become  a  mighty  people.  Two  of  them  died  in  the  city,  and  the  other  two  set  out,  de- 
jected, upon  their  return  home  without  the  great  book  of  the  white  man,  and  one  of 
them  perished  on  the  return  journey.  But  their  pilgrimage  was  not  fruitless,  for  both 
the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions,  a  Congregational  organi- 
zation, and  the  ^Methodist  Board  of  Missions,  were  aroused  to  a  knowledge  of  the  fact 
that  Oregon  was  an  inviting  field  for  missionary  labor.  Each  delegated  suitable  per- 
sons to  proceed  to  Oregon  and  lay  the  foundation  for  missions  among  the  natives. 

The  Methodists  were  prepared  first,  and  in  1834,  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  Rev.  Daniel 
Lee,  Cyrus  Shepard,  and  P.  L.  Edwards  started  for  Oregon  in  company  with  the 
party  of  Nathaniel  J.  VVyeth,  previously  alluded  to.  They  left  Mr.  Wyeth's  party, 
who  were  delayed  in  the  erection  of  Fort  Hall,  and  jiassed  over  the  remaining  distance 
in  company  with  A.  R.  McLeod  and  Thomas  McKay  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
reaching  Fort  Walla  Walla  September  1,  and  by  boats,  Vancouver,  the  fifteenth  day 
of  the  same  month.  A  location  for  a  mission  was  immediately  selected  at  a  point  on 
tlic  Willamette  river,  some  sixty  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  ten  below  the  site  of  Salem. 
Their  mission  goods,  brought  around  by  Wyeth's  vessel,  landed  at  this  place  twenty- 
one  days  after  their  arrival  at  Vancouver.  A  house  was  soon  constructed  of  logs,  32 
feet  by  18,  which  they  entered  Novendjer  3,  there  being  at  the  time  but  ten  feet  of  the 
roof  completed.  So  eager  were  they  to  commence  labor  as  missionaries,  that  before 
the  roof  was  all  on  their  building,  Indian  children  were  received  into  it  as  pupils.  De- 
cember 14,  Jason  Lee,  while  at  Vancouver,  baptized  twenty-one  persons,  among  whom 
were  seventeen  children ;  and  he  received  a  donation  of  twenty  dollars  to  aid  in  mis- 
sionary work  from  persons  living  at  the  fort. 

They  were  in  Oregon  with  the  sole  purpose  of  elevating  the  mental  and  s|iiritual 
condition   of    the  inhal>itaiits,  I'egardlcss   of  nationalitv,   rare,  color  or  coiiditioii.      Be- 


cause  of  this,  tliev  were  kindly  aud  hospitably  received  by  all,  including  the  in(jnster 
corporation.  Their  plan  was  to  educate  the  Indian,  and  teach  him  how  to  make  the 
soil  yield  a  livelihood.  To  do  this  they  proposed  opening  a  school  for  children,  where 
they  could  live,  learn  to  read,  worship  God,  and  till  the  soil.  To  carry  out  this  design, 
it  was  necessary  for  the  missionaries  to  become  farmers,  and  produce  the  food  required 
for  themselves  aud  the  support  of  their  pupils.  The  agricultural  branch  of  their  en- 
terprise was  inaugurated  in  the  spring  of  1835.  Their  first  harvest  yielded  them  two 
hundred  and  fifty  bushels  of  potatoes,  a  quantity  of  wheat,  barley,  oats  and  peas,  to 
which  were  added  six  barrels  of  salmon  procured  from  the  Indians.  In  September  of 
this  year,  the  mission  people  were  attacked  by  an  intermittent  fever,  from  which  four 
Indian  pupils  died.  This  was  a  misfortune,  ai  it  caused  the  superstitious  natives  to 
look  with  mistrust  upon  an  institution  where  the  Great  Spirit  killed  their  children  in- 
stead of  benefiting  them.  One  Indian  visited  the  mission  for  the  purpose  of  killing 
Daniel  Lee  and  Cyrus  Shepard  because  his  little  brother  had  died  there,  but  was  pre- 
vented from  doing  so  by  a  companion,  when  he  crossed  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
and  murdered  several  of  his  own  race,  to  satisfy  his  wrath  at  the  "  wdiite  medicines." 
During  the  fall  of  1835,  a  16  by  32  foot  addition  was  built  to  their  premises,  and  the 
close  of  the  year  found  them  with  comfortable  log  buildings,  a  reasonable  supply  of 
provisions  for  the  Avinter  and  only  ten  pupils. 

The  parties  sent  by  the  American  Board  were  Rev.  Samuel  Parker  aud  Dr.  Mar- 
cus Whitman,  wdio  started  in  1835  with  a  trapping  party  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, intent  upon  selecting  some  suitable  place  for  the  founding  of  a  mission.  They 
reached  the  rendezvous  of  the  company  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  where  they  en- 
countered a  large  band  of  Nez  Perce  Indians,  who  had  come  there  to  trade  with  the 
company.  There  was  a  young  chief  among  them,  whom  the  whites  called  Lawyer, 
because  of  a  ma'rked  ability  displayed  by  him  in  repartee  and  discussion,  which  could 
readily  be  awakened  into  active  play  by  reflecting  upon  the  acts  or  motives  of  his  Ameri- 
can friends.  Upon  consultation  with  this  chief,  it  was  determined  to  establish  a  mis- 
sion among  his  people,  this  decision  being  hastened  because  of  the  peculiar  character- 
istics of  the  two  missionaries,  which  rendered  them  ill-calculated  for  traveling  com- 
panions. To  carry  out  this  arrangement  Dr.  Whitman  was  to  return  home,  accom- 
panied by  two  Xez  Perce  boys,  and  come  back  the  ensuing  year  with  the  necessary 
material  and  associates  for  an  establishment.  Rev.  Samuel  Parker  was  to  continue  his 
way  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  decide  upon  the  1jest  point  for  a  mission  among  the  Xez 
Perces,  and  then  send,  by  Indian  source,  a  letter  of  advice,  to  meet  Whitman  in  the 
mountains  on  his  way  out  the  next  season. 

To  carry  out  this  arrangement,  they  separated  August  22,  1835,  one  turning  back 
upon  the  trail  that  led  him  to  a  martyr's  grave ;  the  other,  with  an  interpreter,  push- 
ing forward  in  a  triumphal  journey  among  the  Indians  to  the  sea.  No  white  man, 
before  or  since,  has  been  received  with  such  cordiality  and  ceremonious  distinction,  as 
greeted  Mr.  Parker  on  his  way  through  Eastern  Oregon  to  Walla  Walla.  His  ap- 
proach to  an  Indian  village  w^as  the  signal  for  a  general  display  of  savage  grandeur 
and  hospitality.  Since  their  first  knowledge  of  white  men  they  had  seen  that  the  pale 
face  belonged  to  a  superior  race,  and  had  heard  that  he  worshiped  a  Great  Spirit,  a 
mysterious  unseen  power,  that  made  him   what  he   was.      The  Indians  now  hoped  to 


OREGON.  129 

Icani,  ti)(i,  how  they  eoiild  gam  favor  with  this  being,  whose  smiles  gave  power  to  his 
followers  ami  happiness  to  those  who  worshiped  him.  Now,  when  one  had  eome  among 
them,  who,  they  believed,  could  bring  them  the  favor  of  the  white  man's  God,  they 
received  him  everywhere  with  outstretched  arms  and  demonstrations  of  unbounded  joy. 
Services  were  held  at  vaiuous  places,  and  the  eager  natives  were  to  a  degree  inducted 
into  the  mysteries  of  the  white  man's  religion. 

October  5,  Mr.  Parker,  Avith  his  interpreter  and  guides,  passed  down  the  Touchet 
river  and  reached  Fort  ^^^alla  AValla  the  next  day,  where  he  was  hospitably  received 
l)y  P.  C.  Pambrun,  the  commandant  in  charge.  From  there  he  continued  his  way 
down  the  Columbia  to  Fort  Vancouver,  where  he  spent  the  winter.  In  the  sirring  he 
revisited  the  Nez  Perces,  went  as  far  north  as  Spokane  and  Colville,  and  returning  to 
Vancouver  embarked  for  home  by  way  of  the  Sandwich  islands  in  June,  1836. 

The  efforts  of  Dr.  Whitman  resulted  in  his  obtaining  the  necessary  funds  and  as- 
sociates for  the  establishment  of  two  missions  in  Oregon.  He  had  married  in  Febru- 
ary, 1835,  ]Miss  Narcissa  Prentiss,  a  lady  of  refined  nature,  rare  accomplishments  and 
with  commanding  appearance.  She  possessed  a  voice  of  winning  sweetness,  was 
affable  to  all  with  whom  she  came  in  contact,  firm  in  purpose  and  an  enthusiast.  Her 
sympathies  had  been  enlisted  in  the  cause,  and  yielding  all  her  fair  prospects  for  the 
future  in  the  country  where  she  was  born,  she  devoted  her  life  to  banishment  and  iso- 
lation among  savages,  in  a  country  so  far  aAvay  that  its  name  even  conveyed  to  the 
mind  a  sense  of  loneliness  and  mystery.  The  associate  workers  were  W.  H.  Gray  and 
Rev.  H.  H.  Spalding  and  wife,  a  lady  of  much  firmness  of  character  and  excellently 
adapted  for  the  labor  she  had  chosen  to  perform. 

The  missionary  party  brought  with  them  three  wagons,  eight  mules,  twelve  horses 
and  sixteen  cows.  In  those  wagons  were  farming  utensils,  blacksmith  and  carpenter 
toals,  seeds,  clothing,  etc.,  to  enable  them  to  become  self-supporting.  In  crossing  the 
plains  they  traveled  under  protection  of  the  American  Fur  Company.  Sir  William 
Drummond,  an  English  nobleman,  under  the  alias  of  Captain  Stewart,  with  a  com- 
panion and  three  servants,  and  Major  Pilcher,  a  celebrated  mountaineer,  were  also  of 
the  party.  On  arriving  at  Fort  Laramie  the  wagons  were  all  abandoned  except  one, 
which  was  retained  by  Dr.  Whitman  for  the  ladies  to  ride  in,  and  then  the  fur  com- 
pany concluded  to,  try  the  experiment  of  taking  one  of  their  carts  along.  After 
leaching  the  trappers' rendezvous  on  Green  river,  the  mission  party  were  introduced 
by  Captain  Wyeth — who  was  on  his  way  home  after  having  sold  his  forts  and  trap- 
ping interests  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company — to  Thomas  McKay  and  A.  R.  McLeod, 
with  whom  they  were  to  continue  to  the  Columbia  river.  Upon  resuming  the  journey, 
the  Doctor,  contrary  to  a  manifest  hostility  evinced  to  his  doingso,  insisted  upon  taking 
the  one  remaining  wagon  with  him,  but  was  obliged  on  reaching  Fort  Hall,  to  reduce 
it  to  a  two-wheel  truck,  and  the  men  insisted  upon  his  leaving  even  that  when  they 
reached  Fort  Boise.  Such  was  the  result  of  the  first  effort  to  cross  the  continent  Avitli 
a  wagon,  which  demonstrated  that  the  Rocky  mountains  were  not  an  impassable  bar- 
rier to  American  immigration.  The  party  arrived  a  Fort  Walla  Walla  September  2, 
1836,  where  they  were  received  by  Mr.  Pambrun  with  demonstrations  of  heartfelt 
cordiality  that  caused  the  travel-worn  missionaries  to  feel  as  though  they  had  reached 
n  homo  in  tliis  land  of  the  setting  sun.      A  few   days   later  they  passed   down    the  Co- 


130  OREGON. 

luinbia  to  Fort  Vaneouver,  where  Dr.  McLaughlin  gave  them  a  most  hearty  welcome. 
Here  the  ladies  enjoyed  his  hosjiitalities  for  some  time,  while  the  gentlemen  returned 
to  Fort  Walla  Walla  to  seek  suitable  locations  for  their  two  missionary  establishments. 
With  the  aid  of  Mr.  Pambrun,  and  after  careful  examination  of  the  country,  they  de- 
cided to  establish  one  mission  among  the  Cay  uses  and  one  among  the  Nez  Perces.  The 
former  was  located  at  the  junction  of  Walla  Walla  river  and  Mill  creek,  near  the 
present  city  of  Walla  Walla,  and  was  called  Waiilat]3u,  the  jiroper  name  of  the  Cayuse 
tribe,  being  placed  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Whitman  and  his  noble  wife ;  the  latter, 
called  Lapwai  and  put  in  charge  of  Mr.  Spalding  and  wife,  was  situated  on  the  Clear- 
water, above  the  site  of  Lewiston.  By  December  suitable  accommodations  were  pro- 
vided at  both  missions  and  the  founders  began  their  labor  of  love. 

Additions  were  also  made  to  the  force  at  work  in  the  Methodist  mission  in  the 
Willamette  valley.  In  July,  1836,  Elijah  White  and  wife,  Alanson  Beers  and  wife, 
W.  H.  Wilson,  Annie  M.  Pitman,  Susan  Downing  and  Elvina  Johnson,  sailed  from 
Boston,  but  did  not  reach  their  destination  until  May,  1837.  The  scourge  of  fever 
still  afflicted  them,  and  the  mission  in  consequence  bore  an  ill  repute  among  the  natives, 
in  spite  of  the  most  earnest  and  conscientious  efforts  of  its  people  to  win  the  good  will 
of  those  whom  they  had  come  so  far  to  benefit. 

The  attaches  of  the  missions  were  not  the  only  Americans  that  were  now  living  in 
Oregon.  From  the  trappers  who  had  visited  the  coast,  some  of  them  with  the  Ameri- 
can companies,  some  as  roving  "  free  trappers  "  and  still  others  in  the  service  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  knowledge  of  the  beautiful  and  fertile  Willamette  and  Sacra- 
mento valleys  was  sj^read  along  the  American  frontier,  and  the  thoughts  of  many  of 
the  hardy  western  people  were  turned  in  this  direction.  The  breaking  nj)  of  the 
American  trapping  companies  left  many  mountaineers  without  an  occupation,  unless 
they  engaged  in  trapping  on  their  own  account,  and  these  men  began  to  find  their 
way  into  California  and  Oregon  for  the  purpose  of  building  for  themselves  homes,  the 
majority  of  them,  however,  going  to  the  former  country.  At  the  close  of  1836  there 
were  some  thirty  white  persons  in  Oregon  not  connected  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, including  the  missionaries  and  their  wives. 

The  presence  of  these  j^eople,  in  the  capacity  of  settlers,  was  regarded  by  the  com- 
pany with  much  disfavor;  not  simply  because  they  were  Americans,  but  because  the 
settlement  of  any  persons  whatever,  over  whom  the  company  had  no  control,  was  cal- 
culated to  weaken  its  hold  upon  the  natives.  It  had  been  the  policy  of  the  company 
to  discourage  settlements,  even  of  its  own  employees  whose  terms  of  service  had  expired, 
though  it  could  exercise  control  over  them  almost  as  much  as  when  still  in  its  service; 
consequently  the  settlement  of  Americans  beyond  the  23ale  of  their  authoritj^  was  very 
distasteful.  The  Methodist  missionaries,  also,  who  had  been  so  cordially  welcomed  by 
the  company's  officers  when  it  was  supposed  they  were  simply  to  engage  in  missionary 
work,  now  that  they  encouraged  these  settlers  and  sided  with  them  against  the  company, 
were  classed  in  the  same  category  and  deprived  of  the  aid  of  the  company's  influence. 

In  order  to  be  still  more  independent  of  the  company,  Ewing  Young,  who  ^«^s 
the  leading  spirit  among  the  American  trappers  who  had  located  in  the  valley,  and 
Jason  Lee,  the  missionary,  set  on  foot  a  scheme  to  j^rocure  a  sujiply  of  cattle  from 
California.     The  effort  was  opposed  by  the  company,  but  with   the  aid  (if  William  A. 


OREGON.  131 

Slocum,  an  officer  of  t\u-  United  State-;  navy,  wIid  advauL'cd  money  and  gave  a  free 
pas.sage  to  California  in  liis  vessel  t(j  those  who  went  after  the  cattle,  it  was  completely 
successful,  and  the  "  Wallamette  Cattle  Company"  was  organized.  The  party  which 
went  to  California  was  under  the  leadership  of  Mr.  Young,  and  was  composed  of  P. 
L.  Edwards,  who  kept  a  diary  of  the  expedition  which  is  now  preserved  in  the  State 
Library  at  Sacramento  and  numbered  23,989,  Hawchurst,  Carmiehael,  Bailey,  Ere- 
(juette,  DesPau,  AVilliams,  Tibbetts,  Gay,  Wood,  Camp,  Turner,  and  enough  others  to 
make  a  company  of  about  twenty  men,  all  inured  to  the  dangers  and  privations  of 
mountain  life.  They  collected  a  baud  of  700  cattle  at  three  dollars  per  head,  and, 
with  much  labor  and  difficulty  succeeded  in  bringing  600  of  them  into  the  valley. 
They  had  much  trouble  with  the  Indians  on  Siskiyou  mountain  and  along  Rogue 
river,  and  Gray,  without  any  foundation  charges  the  compaay  with  stirring  up  the 
Indians  to  cut  them  off.  TJie  fact  is,  as  Edwards'  diary  plainly  shows,  the  trouble 
grew  out  of  the  un^^rovoked  murder  by  one  of  the  party  of  an  Indian  who  visited 
their  cimp  on  Klamath  river.  Turner,  Gay  and  Bailey  were  three  of  four  survivors 
of  an  American  party  which  had  been  attacked  on  Rogue  river  two  years  before,  and 
shot  this  Indian  in  a  spirit  of  revenge.  It  is  certainly  difficult  to  trace  any  agency  of 
tlie  company  in  this  affair,  or  to  assign  any  other  cause  than  wanton  murder  for  their 
trouble  with  the  Indians. 

The  arrival  of  the  cattle  was  hailed  with  joy  by  the  settlers,  as  it  guaranteed 
them  comj^lete  independence  of  the  company  and  demonstrated  that  Americans  could 
settle  in  the  Willamette  valley  with  an  assurance  of  being  self-supporting.  At  the 
close  of  1837  the  independent  population  of  Oregon  consisted  of  forty-nine  souls  about 
equally  divided  between  missionary  attaches  and  settlers.  Of  these  Rev.  David  Leslie 
and  wife.  Rev  H.''K.  W.  Perkins  and  Margaret  Smith  were  new  recruits  for  the  Meth- 
odist mission. 

In  1838,  W.  H.  Gray,  who  had  returned  East  the  year  before  to  j)rocure  rein- 
fin-cements  for  the  Congregational  missions,  came  out  with  Revs.  E.  Walker,  Gushing 
Eells  and  A.  B.  Smith  and  the  wives  of  the  four,  also  a  young  man  named  Cornelius 
Rogers  and  John  A.  Sutter,  the  honored  pioneer  of  the  Sacramento  valley.  At  Fort 
Hall,  Gray's  associates  were  induced  to  trade  the  fourteen  cows  tbey  were  bringing 
with  them,  all  of  a  superior  breed,  for  a  like  number  of  cows  to  be  delivered  to  them 
by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  after  reaching  their  destination.  They  failed  to  fully 
appreciate  the  advantages  of  that  trade  until  after  arriving  at  Whitman's  mission  in 
September,  where  they  found  that  only  an  e.xpert  vaquero  could  catch  one  of  the  wild 
heifers  roaming  with  the  herds  belonging  to  the  company. 

The  Methodists  enlarged  the  field  of  their  missionary  labors  in  the  spring  of 
1838,  by  establishing  a  mission  at  The  Dalles,  under  the  charge  of  Daniel  Lee  and  H. 
K.  W.  Perkins.  The  Protestant  method  of  benefiting  the  Indians,  aside  from  merely 
preaching  Christianity  to  them,  was  to  teach  them  how  to  live,  how  to  procure  food 
and  clothing  by  their  own  labor  intelligently  applied,  so  that  they  should  no  longer  be 
subjected  to  alternate  seasons  of  feasting  and  famine.  They  thought  to  make  a  farmer 
of  the  Indian,  and  thus  destroy  his  roving  habits.  To  do  this  it  was  necessary  that 
those  being  taught  l)e  supported  by  them  until  they  could  be  rendered  self-sustaining  ; 
and  this  re(iuired  money.     Con^eijuently  wlien  it   was  derided  to  establisji  a  mission  at 


The  Dalles,  Kev.  Jasou  Lee  started  East  to  procure  financial  aid,  accompanied  by  P, 
L.  Edwards,  F.  Y.  Ewing  and  two  Indian  boys.  During  his  absence  his  wife  died, 
also  Cyrus  Shepard,  who  was  teaching  the  school  at  the  Willamette  mission. 

In  1838  a  new  element  was  introduced  into  Oregon  in  the  form  of  a  delegation  of 
Catholic  missionaries  ;  and  immediately  upon  their  arrival  was  begun  anew  that  same 
sectarian  rivalry,  that  battle  of  religious  creeds,  which  has  caused  so  much  of  blood- 
shed, horror  and  misery  in  the  world.  Intolerance  and  bigotry  were  displayed  as  much 
by  the  one  side  as  the  other,  and  responsibility  for  the  terrible  results  which  followed 
their  contest  for  spiritual  control  of  the  Indians  rests  equally  upon  the  shoulders  of 
both.  Revs.  Francis  N.  Blanchet  and  Modest  Demers  reached  Vancouver  on  the 
twenty-fourth  of  November,  having  come  overland  from  Montreal,  and  having  bap- 
tized fifty-three  persons  during  their  passage  down  the  Columbia.  The  Congregational 
missions  were  extended  during  the  year  by  the  establishing  of  a  new  one  among  the 
Spokane  Indians  by  Eevs.  Gushing  Eells  and  E.  Walker. 

During  the  following  year  but  little  advancement  was  made,  either  in  missionary 
work  or  settlements.  The  Catholics  traveled  extensively  among  the  tribes,  while  the 
Protestants  confined  their  attention  to  their  various  stations.  The  Indians  learned 
that  the  white  man  had  two  ways  of  going  to  heaven,  and  naturally  were  themselves 
divided  in  opinion  as  to  which  was  the  better  one;  or,  as  they  themselves  expressed  it, 
all  their  bad  feelings  towards  each  were  stirred  up,  and  those  quarreled  who  had  be- 
fore been  friends.  A  printing  press  was  presented  in  1839  to  the  Protestant  mission- 
aries, by  their  co-laborers  in  the  Sandwich  islands  ;  and  it  was  taken  to  Lapwai  with 
its  accompanying  material,  and  there  E.  O.  Hall  and  Messrs.  Spalding  and  Rogers  used 
it  to  ]3rint  portions  of  the  New  Testament  in  the  Nez  Perce  tongue.  This  was  the  first 
appearance  of  the  typographic  art  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  North  America. 

In  the  latter  part  of  1839  A.  B.  Smith  located  among  Ellis'  band  of  Nez  Perces 
and  began  missionary  work.  The  next  year  he  undertook  to  cultivate  a  small  patch 
of  ground,  when  he  was  ordered  by  Ellis  to  desist  upon  pain  of  death.  Smith  not 
only  abandoned  his  potato  patch  but  his  mission  as  well,  and  departed  for  the  Sand- 
wich islands.  The  failure  of  this  effort  gave  great  satisfaction  to  the  Catholics,  as  is 
indicated  by  the  published  writings  of  Father  P.  J.  DeSmet,  who  had  located  a  mis- 
sion among  the  Flatheads  the  same  year. 

In  June,  1840,  Jason  Lee  returned  with  a  party  of  forty-eight,  of  whom  eight 
were  clergymen  and  nineteen  ladies.  The  names  of  the  new  arrivals  in  1839  were 
Rev.  J.  S.  Griffin  and  wife  and  Mr.  Mungar  and  wife,  who  had  intended  to  found  a 
mission  on  Snake  river  but  had  not  succeeded,  Ben  Wright,  Lawson,  Reiser,  Geiger, 
Sidney  Smith,  Robert  Shortess  and  Blair,  a  blacksmith.  In  1840  the  arrivals  were 
more  numerous.     They  are  thus  named  and  summarized  by  Gray  : 

"  In  1840,  Mrs.  Lee,  second  wife  of  Rev.  Jasou  Lee;  Rev-  J.  H.  Frost  and  wife ; 
Rev.  A.  F.  Waller,  wife  and  two  children;  Rev.  W.  W.  Kone  and  wife;  Rev.  G.  Hines, 
wife  and  sister ;  Rev.  L.  H.  Judson,  wife  and  two  children  ;  Rev.  J.  L.  Parish,  wife  and 
three  children;  Rev.  G.  P.  Richards,  wife  and  three  children;  Rev.  A.  P.  Olley  and 
wife.  Laymen — Mr.  George  Abernethy,  wife  and  two  children ;  Mr.  H.  Campbell 
wife  and  one  child;  Mr.  W.  W.  Raymond  and  Avife;  Mr.  H.  B.  Brewer  and  wife;  Di-. 
J.   L.   Babcock,  wife  and  (me    child;    Mrs.   Daniel   Lee;  Mrs.    David   Carter;  Mrs. 


>  ^ 


^  : 


^'-  iWHii  ^\¥ 


Joseph  Holman  ;  Miss  E.  Pliillips.  Methodist  Episcopal  Protestant  mission — llev- 
Harvy  Clark  and  wife  ;  P.  B.  Littlejoh.n  and  wife.  Independent  Protestant  mission — 
Robert  Moore,  James  Cook  and  James  Fletcher,  settlers.  Jesuit  priests — P.  J.  DeSmet, 
Flathead  mission.  Rocky  mountain  men  with  native  wives :  William  Craig,  Doctor 
Robert  Newell,  Jos.  L.  Meek,  Geo.  Ebbert,  William  M.  Dougherty,  John  Larisou, 
(leorge  Wilkinson,  a  Mr.  Nicholson,  and  Mr.  Algear  and  William  Johnson,  author  of 
the  novel,  'Leni  Leoti;  or,  the  Prairie  Flower.'  The  subject  was  first  written  and  read 
liefore  the  Lyceum  at  Oregon  City,  in  1843."  He  classifies  the  population  as  follows  : 
American  settlers,  twenty-five  of  them  with  Indian  wives,  36 ;  American  women,  33 ; 
children  32;  lay  members,  Protestant  missions  13;  Methodist  ministers  13;  Congrega- 
tional 0;  American  physicians  3;  English  physicians  1;  Jesuit  priests,  including 
DeSmet,  3;  Canadian  French,  (30;  total  Americans,  137;  total  Canadians,  including 
priests,  (J3 ;  total  population,  not  including  Hudson's  Bay  Company  operatives,  within 
what  now  is  a  portion  of  Montana  and  all  of  Idaho,  Washington  and  Oregon,  200. 


CHAPTER    XML 


OREGON    FOR   THE    UNITED  STATES. 

First  Efforts  at  Government     Petition  to  Congress  in    1840 -Plans  of   the  Hudson's  Bay  Company-  Unfounded 
Charges   against   the   Company  -Unsuccessful  Attempt  to  Organize  in  1841   -Visit  of  Commodore  Wilkes 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  Imports  Settlers  from  Red  River     Visit  of  Governor  Simpson     Whitman's  Win- 
ter Journey     The  Ashburton   Treaty     Emigrants  and  Wagons  for  Oregon     Names  of  Oregon  Residents  in 
1843-  A  Provisional  Government  Organized  -Treaty  of  1846  Gives  Oregon  to  the  United  States. 

In  183!>  was  made  the  first  attemj)t  at  any  form  of  government,  otlier  than  the 
enforced  rules  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The  ^Methodist  missionaries  in  the 
Willamette  valley  selected  two  persons  to  act  as  magistrates,  and  though  this  was  done 
without  the  co-operation  of  the  settlers  the  action  was  acquiesced  in  and  their  authority 
respected.  The  most  important  case  before  this  tribunal  was  that  of  T.  J.  Hubbard, 
who  was  tried  for  murder  before  Rev.  David  Leslie,  having  killed  a  man  who  was  at- 
tempting to  enter  his  house  through  the  window.  The  jury  ac(iuitted  the  prisoner  on 
the  grounds  of  justifiable  homicide.  In  1840,  soon  after  this  event,  a  petition  was 
forwarded  to  congress,  asking  the  establishment  of  a  territorial  government  in  Oregon, 
which  had  the  effect  of  drawing  attention  to  this  country  and  of  reminding  those  who 
had  formerly  thought  the  Willamette  valley  a  desirable  spot  for  a  home  that  now  was 
a  good  time  to  emigrate. 

There  was  still  another  ami  iiKire  iiu|iiirtaiit  effect  prudiiced  l»y  this  petition  and 
the   apparent   delermiiiatioii   of  the   Aiiieriean   settlers   to  have  a  government  of  tlieir 


13i  OREGON. 

owa,  and  that  Wci.s  to  arouse  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  a  realization  of  the  pre- 
carious condition  of  its  authority  in  Oregon.  It  began  to  recognize  the  fact  that  as  a 
company  it  could  not  control  these  new-comers  nor  could  it  prevent  the  influx  of  others 
who  were  inimical  to  its  interests.  This  conviction  wrought  a  change  in  policy,  and 
with  it  was  made  a  bold  stroke  to  gain  possession  of  the  prize.  It  has  been  stated  that 
the  company  was  opposed  to  settlements  of  any  kind,  preferring  that  the  Country 
should  remain  uninhabited  by  all  save  the  natives  and  actual  servants  of  the  corpora- 
tion. It  had  even  gone  so  far  as  to  send  to  Canada  at  its  own  expense  employees 
whose  terms  of  service  had  expired,  to  prevent  them  from  settling  here.  It  is  to 
this  policy,  wise  if  all  that  was  desired  was  to  keep  this  region  as  a  fur-bearing  wil- 
derness, but  very  unwise  if  it  was  the  expectation  to  gain  possession  of  it  for  Great 
Britain,  that  England  can  charge  the  loss  to  her  of  the  disputed  territory.  Had  the 
company  from  the  first  planted  colonies  in  the  Willamette  like  those  of  Lord  Selkirk 
at  Winnipeg,  or  had  it  even  encouraged  the  settlement  of  its  discharged  employees, 
there  would  now  have  been  enough  British  subjects  to  have  controlled  local  affairs  and 
laid  a  foundation  for  a  claim  of  permanent  ownership.  Daring  the  past  few  years  the 
company  had  been  gradually  realizing  the  unpleasant  fact  that  it  could  not  hope  to  exclude 
settlers,  and  had  therefore  withdrawn  its  objection  to  the  location  of  permanent  homes 
here  by  its  old  servants,  and,  preferring  them  to  the  Americans,  had  even  encouraged 
them  in  so  doing ;  but  now  it  realized  that  it  must  adopt  a  more  comprehensive  and 
aggressive  policy,  it  must  colonize  Oregon  with  subjects  of  Great  Britain  or  submit  to 
being  itself  expelled  from  the  country.  A  deep  plan  was  laid,  which,  but  for  the  fore- 
sight and  energetic  patriotism  of  Dr.  Marcus  Whitman,  would  have  been  completely 
successful ;  and  this  plan  was  to  bring  a  large  emigration  from  the  Red  River  settle- 
ments to  overwhelm  the  Americans,  and  at  the  same  time  to  open  negotiations  between 
the  bome  governments  for  a  final  settlement  of  the  mooted  question  of  title,  in  which 
the  preponderance  of  English  subjects  here  was  to  be  urged  as  a  reason  why  Great 
Britain's  claim  to  the  country  should  be  conceded. 

There  was  nothing  criminal  nor  even  dishonorable  in  this ;  and  yet  some  Ameri- 
can writers  speak  of  this  and  other  steps  of  the  company  to  obtain  or  retain  possession 
of  Oregon  as  though  they  were  the  most  heinous  of  crimes.  The  subjects  of  Great 
Britain  certainly  had  as  much  right  to  make  an  effort  for  possession  as  had  citizens  of 
the  United  States  ;  and  the  actual  fact  is  that  they  were  less  active,  less  aggressive  than 
were  the  Americans,  to  which  is  due  in  a  large  measure  their  defeat  in  the  contest. 
Because  they  made  these  efforts,  parties  who  were  equally  active  on  the  other  side, 
looking  at  the  matter  through  their  party-colored  spectacles,  have  charged  the  com- 
pany's officers  with  the  commission  of  grave  crimes,  not  the  least  of  which  was  the 
inciting  of  Indians  to  murder  American  settlers.  These  charges  rest  upon  evidence 
which  is  entirely  inferential  and  circumstantial,  and  even  of  this  kind  of  testimony 
the  greater  portion  is  favorable  to  the  company.  There  is  no  evidence  to  prove  that 
the  officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  guilty  of  any  acts  that  would  not  be 
looked  upon  in  any  country  and  by  any  people  as  proper  and  necessary  for  the  pro- 
tection of  their  interests  could  they  have  been  placed  in  the  same  position.  It  is 
certainly  questionable  if  some  of  those  gentlemen,  whose  bitter  enmity  caused  them  to 
make  these  charges,  had  possessed  the  great  power  of  the  company,  whether  they 


OREGON.  135 

would  liave  used  it  as  liouorably  aud  c-ouscieutiously  as  did  Dr.  McLaughlin  and  his 
associates.  It  is  certain  that  these  narrow-minded  views  were  not  entertained  by  the 
master  mind  of  them  all,  the  martyred  Whitman.  His  brain  was  large  enougli  to 
keep  2)ersonality  and  politics  separate,  and  he  honored  and  respected  these  men  and  en- 
joyed their  personal  friendship  even  while  doing  his  utmost  to  defeat  their  plans.  It 
was  the  active  part  taken  in  the  struggle  by  the  Protestant  missionaries  which  had  lost 
them  the  supjjort  of  the  company,  and  caused  that  organization  to  encourage  and  aid 
the  Catholics,  who,  as  subjects  of  Great  Britain,  could  be  counted  upon  to  further  the 
company's  interests.  It  was  this  union  of  interest  and  action  which  was  the  true 
cause  of  the  bitter  enmity  of  the  Protestant  historians  to  the  company.  The  mutual 
intolerance  of  the  two  creeds,  and  the  especially  bitter  spirit  engendered  by  the  contest 
for  control  of  the  Indians,  sufficiently  explain  why  those  whose  minds  were  thus  edu- 
cated to  believe  their  Catholic  opponents  could  be  guilty  of  fiendish  acts,  should 
extend  their  prejudices  to  the  company  which  supported  them.  It  is  time  these  un- 
founded charges  were  dropped  and  prejudice  give  way  to  reason.  The  workings  of 
the  company's  new  plan  will  be  unfolded  as  this  narrative  progresses,  as  will  also  the 
circumstances  which  have  called  out  these  precautionary  remarks. 

Although  so  few  white  people  resided  in  Oregon  at  this  time,  still  the  objects 
which  brought  them  here  had  resulted  in  their  division  into  four  classes,  with  interests 
to  a  greater  or  less  extent  adverse  to  each  other.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the 
Catholics,  the  Protestant  missionaries,  and  the  independent  settlers,  constituted  the 
four  interests,  aud  they  were  elements  not  easy  to  harmonize.  The  first  two  seemed 
to  have  but  the  one  opinion,  though  there  were  a  few  members  of  the  Catholic  church 
who  were  favorable  to  American  rule.  The  Methodist  mission  had  served  as  a  rallying 
point  for  settlers,  who  cared  nothing  for  the  religious  creed  it  represented,  their  object 
in  seeking  homes  in  the  Willamette  having  been  to  better  their  worldly  condition. 
Such  favored  the  mission  influence  to  the  extent  only  that  it  served  their  purpose  of 
settling  in  the  country.  In  February,  1841,  Ewing  Young  died,  leaving  considerable 
property  and  no  heirs.  This  naturally  raised  the  (][uesti()n  of  what  was  to  be  done  with 
his  estate  and  who  was  to  take  charge  of  it.  He  was  neither  a  Catholic,  a  Protestant, 
nor  a  Hudson's  Bay  Company  employee  ;  he  had  only  been  an  American  citizen,  was 
ilead  in  Oregon,  and  what  was  to  be  done  ?  Had  he  been  one  of  the  company's  em- 
ployees it  would  have  attended  to  the  property ;  if  he  had  belonged  to  the  Catholic 
family  the  priests  would  have  taken  charge ;  if  a  Methodist,  the  mission  could  have 
a<lministered  ;  but,  as  he  was  an  outsider,  and  as  iio  one  had  the  color  of  right  to 
oificiate,  it  became  a  matter  in  which  all  were  interested  aud  a  cause  for  public  action. 
His  funeral  occurred  on  the  seventeenth,  and  after  the  burial  an  impromptu  meeting- 
was  held,  at  which  it  was  determined  to  organize  a  civil  government  over  Oregon,  not 
including  the  portion  lying  north  of  the  Columbia  river.  A  •Committee  was  to 
constitute  the  legislative  branch  of  the  government;  a  governor,  a  supreme  judge 
with  probate  powers,  three  justices  of  the  peace,  three  constables,  three  road  commis- 
sioners, an  attorney-general,  a  clerk  of  the  courts  and  public  recorder,  one  treasuier 
and  twi)  ovcrseei's  of  tlic  ponr  were  to  constitute  its  official  machinery,  (lentlemeu 
were   put  in  iioniiiiation  fur  mII    of  these  offices  and   the   meeting  adjourned    until   the 


next  day,  at  which  time,  citizens  of  the  valley  were  notified  to  be  present  at  the  Amer- 
ican mission  house  to  elect  officers,  and  to  perfect  the  governmental  organization. 

At  the  time  and  place  specified,  nearly  all  the  male  population  south  of  the  Colum- 
bia congregated,  the  several  factions  in  full  force.  Most  prominent  among  these  was 
the  Methodist  mission ;  second,  the  Catholics  as  allies  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ; 
and  third,  the  independent  settlers  whose  interests  were  not  specially  identified  with 
either.  The  proceedings  of  the  previous  day  were  not  fully  indorsed.  Two  were  added 
to  the  legislative  committee,  and  the  following  gentlemen  were  chosen  to  serve  in  that 
capacity  :  Revs.  F.  N.  Blanchet,  Jason  Lee,  Gustavus  Hines,  Josiah  L.  Parrish,  and 
Messrs.  D.  Donpierre,  M.  Charlevo,  Robert  Moore,  E.  Lucia,  and  William  Johnson. 
The  main  point  at  issue  seemed  to  be,  as  to  which  faction  should  secure  the  governor- 
ship. Revs.  Leslie  and  Hines,  and  Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock  were  the  Methodist  mission 
candidates  and  were  liable  to  divide  the  vote  snfficiejitly  to  secure  the  selection  of  Dr. 
Bailey,  a  man  of  strong  English  prejudices,  who  w^as  opposed  to  religion  generally,  but 
could  secure  the  French  Catholics,  and  a  majority  of  the  settlers'  votes.  He  drove  the 
latter  jDortion  of  his  support  into  the  opposition  ranks,  however,  by  his  want  of  modesty 
in  nominating  himself  for  that  position.  It  was  finally  determined  to  have  no  gover- 
nor, and  Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock  having  been  chosen  supreme  judge,  was  instructed  to  ren- 
der decisions  in  matters  coming  before  him  in  accordance  with  the  New  York  code. 
This  was  an  order  easy  to  give,  but  difficult  to  fulfill,  as  there  was  not  a  New  York 
statute  book  in  Oregon  at  the  time.  The  Methodists  having  secured  the  bench,  and 
prevented  the  adverse  interests  from  securing  the  executive  branch  of  the  embryo 
government,  the  Catholic  influence  was  given  a  representation  in  Geo.  LeBreton,  who 
was  made  clerk  of  the  court  and  recorder.  Wm.  Johnson  was  chosen  from  the  Englisli 
element  for  the  office  of  high  sheriff,  and  the  following  named  gentlemen  were  elected 
constables  :  Havier  Laderant,  Pierre  Billique,  and  Wm.  McCarty.  The  offices  of 
justice  of  the  peace,  road  commissioner,  attorney  general,  treasurer  and  overseer  of  the 
poor,  were  not  filled.  After  the  transaction  of  this  business,  and  the  issuance  of  an 
order  for  the  legislative  committee  to  draft  a  constitution  and  code  of  laws,  the  meeting 
adjourned  until  the  following  June. 

On  the  first  of  June,  the  people  assembled  at  the  new  building  near  the  Catholic 
church  in  the  Willamette,  and  learned  that  the  committee  had  failed  to  either  form 
laws,  or  even  meet  for  that  purpose.  Rev.  F.  N.  Blanchet  withdrew  as  a  member  of  it, 
and  Dr.  Bailey  was  chosen  to  fill  the  vacancy.  The  committee  was  then  ordered  to, 
"  Confer  with  the  commodore  of  the  American  squadron  and  John  McLaughlin,  chief 
factor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  with  regard  to  forming  a  constitution  and  code  of 
laws  for  this  community."  The  meeting  then  adjourned  until  the  following  October. 
In  1838  the  United  States  Government  sent  out  a  fleet  of  vessels,  under  the  command 
of  Commodore  Chaxles  Wilkes,  on  an  extensive  voyage  of  exploration  which  lasted  five 
years.  Wilkes  was  now  in  Oregon  with  the  purpose  as  much  of  ascertaining  the  actual 
state  of  affairs  as  of  gathering  geographical  and  scientific  information.  The  committee 
applied  to  him  for  advice,  and  after  visiting  the  Catholic  and  Protestant  missions  and 
consulting  with  Dr.  McLaughlin,  the  missionaries  and  settlers,  he  ascertained  that 
though  all  had  participated  in  the  meetings,  but  a  minority,  chiefly  connected  with  the 
Methodist  missions,  were  in  favor  of  an  organization.     He  therefore  advised  them  to 


M4, 


\A 


I 


OREGON.  137 

wait  until  they  were  stronger  and  until  the  "government  of  the  United  States  should 
throw  its  mantle  over  them."  The  committee  accepted  his  advice,  the  adjourned  meet- 
ing never  convened,  and  the  attemi^t  at  organization  was  abandoned. 

During  1841  the  first  regular  emigration  from  the  East  arrived,  consisting  of  111 
])ersons,  and  these  came  without  wagons,  since  it  was  the  general  belief  both  in  England 
and  the  United  States,  that  wagons  could  not  cross  the  continent  to  Oregon.  This  idea 
was  industriously  supported  by  English  authors,  several  of  whom  published  books  on 
Oregon  about  this  time,  and  was  strongly  urged  as  a  reason  why  Oregon  should  be 
given  up  to  the  British.  As  our  statesmen  derived  their  information  on  this  subject 
chiefly  from  English  sources,  they  held  the  same  views  about  the  inpracticability  of 
overland  emigration  from  the  United  States  to  Oregon.  Sir  George  Simpson,  governor 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  visited  the  country  the  same  year,  crossing  overland 
from  Montreal.  Just  *3ast  of  the  Rocky  mountains  he  passed  the  emigrants  the  com- 
pany was  importing  from  Red  river,  consisting  of  "  twenty-three  families,  the  heads 
being  generally  young  and  active."  They  reached  Oregon  in  September,  and  spent  the 
winter  on  the  Cowlitz.  During  1841,  also,  there  was  the  greatest  clash  yet  experienced 
between  the  rival  religions.  The  Catholics  went  among  the  Cascade  Indians,  who  had 
been  under  the  influence  of  the  Methodist  mission  at  The  Dalles,  and  induced  them  to 
renounce  the  Protestant  for  the  Catholic  creed.  This  served  to  intensify  the  bitterness 
existing  between  the  religious  factions.  The  Catholic  missions  were  rapidly  growing 
in  power  and  influence,  the  Methodist  were  as  rapidly  retrograding,  while  the  Congre- 
gational missions  in  the  interior  were  progressing  but  slowly. 

There  was  quite  an  immigration  in  1842.  Seventeen  families  started  from  Inde- 
pendence in  March,  with  Stephen  H.  Meek  as  a  guide.  At  Green  river  they  were 
overtaken  by  Fitzpatrick's  brigade  of  trappers  on  the  way  to  Fort  Hall,  and  several  of 
the  families  cut  up  their  wagons  and  made  pack  saddles,  and  packing  their  effects  on 
their  animals,  accompanied  the  brigade.  The  remainder  of  the  wagons  Meek  conducted 
safely  through  Sublette's  cut-off',  reaching  Fort  Hall  the  same  day  as  the  others,  much 
to  their  surprise.  Here,  owing  to  the  positive  assertions  of  the  company's  officers  that 
it  was  impossible  to  take  wagons  any  further,  they  were  abandoned,  and  the  party  pro- 
ceeded without  them,  passing  down  Snake  river,  across  the  Blue  mountains,  down  the 
Umatilla  and  Columbia  to  The  Dalles,  and  by  the  Mount  Hood  trail  to  Oregon  City, 
which  town  was  laid  out  that  fall  by  L.  W.  Hastings,  one  of  the  new  emigrants, 
as  agent  for  Dr.  McLaughlin.  The  greater  portion  of  this  party,  being  dissatisfied 
with  the  rainy  winter,  were  guided  to  California  in  the  spring  by  INIeek.  Among  these 
emigrants  was  Dr.  Elijah  White,  who  had  authority  to  act  as  Indian  agent,  being  the 
first  official  of  the  United  States  government  to  enter  Oregon. 

We  now  approach  the  turning  point  in  the  long  struggle  for  possession  of  this 
region,  and  as  in  the  most  popular  accounts  truth  and  fiction  have  been  sadly  mixed, 
the  fiction  will  be  given  first  and  the  reality  afterwards.  Gray's  History  of  Oregon 
says:  "In  September,  1842,  Dr.  Whitman  was  called  to  visit  a  patient  at  old  Fort 
AValla  AA' alia.  While  there  a  number  of  boats  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  with 
several  chief  traders  and  Jesuit  priests,  on  their  way  to  the  interior  of  the  country,  ar- 
liveil.  While  at  dinner,  the  overland  express  from  Canada  arrived,  bringing  news 
that  the  emigration  fiom  the  Red  river  settlement  was  at  Colville.     This  news  excited 


138  OREGON. 

unu.sual  joy  among  the  guests.  One  of  them — a  young  priest — sang  out :  '  Hurrah  for 
Oregon,  America  is  too  late;  we  have  got  the  country.'  'Now  the  Americans  may 
whistle;  the  country  is  ours!'  said  another.  Whitman  learned  that  the  company  had 
ai-ranged  for  these  Red  river  English  settlers  to  come  on  to  settle  in  Oregon,  and  at  the 
same  time  Governor  Simpson  was  to  go  to  Washington  and  secure  the  settlement  of  the 
question  as  to  the  boundaries,  on  the  ground  of  the  most  numerous  and  permanent 
settlement  in  the  country.  The  Doctor  was  taunted  with  the  idea  that  no  power  could 
prevent  this  result,  as  no  information  could  reach  Washington  in  time  to  prevent  it. 
'It  shall  be  prevented,'  said  the  Doctor,  '  if  I  have  to  go  to  Washington  myself.''  'But 
you  cannot  go  there  to  do  it,'  was  the  taxinting  reply  of  the  Briton.  'I  will  see'  was 
the  Doctor's  reply.  The  reader  is  sufficiently  acquainted  with  the  history  of  this  man's 
toil  and  labor  in  bringing  his  first  wagon  through  to  Fort  Boise,  to  understand  what  he 
meant  when  he  said,  '  I  will  see.'  Two  hours  after  this  conversation  at  the  fort,  he  dis- 
mounted from  his  horse  at  his  door  at  Waiilatpu.  I  saw  in  a  moment  that  he  was  fixed 
on  some  imi^ortant  object  or  errand.  He  soon  explained  that  a  special  effort  must  lie 
made  to  save  the  country  from  becoming  British  territory.  Everything  was  in  the 
best  of  order  about  the  station,  and  there  seemed  to  be  no  important  reason  why  he 
should  not  go.  A.  L.  Lovejoy,  Esq.,  had  a  few  days  before  arrived  with  the  immigra- 
tion. It  was  proposed  that  he  should  accompany  the  Doctor,  which  he  consented  to  do, 
and  in  twenty-four  hours'  time  they  were  well  mounted  and  on  their  way  to  the  States.'' 

Such  is  the  fiction  upon  which  has  been  founded  a  most  extended  controversy,  the 
result  of  which  has  been  to  show  that  Dr.  Whitman  was  moved  to  take  this  journey  bv 
a  deep  and  gradually  formed  resolution  and  that  long  and  thoughtful  consideration  and 
not  the  sudden  impulse  ascribed  by  Gray  had  led  him  to  form  the  resolution.  That 
this  scene  depicted  by  Gray  is  a  pure  fiction  is  evident  for  several  reasons: — First,  be- 
cause the  Red  river  immigration  was  all  in  and  reached  the  Cowlitz  in  Septembei', 
1841,  as  surviving  members  testify,  and  there  was  no  emigration  from  there  in  1842 ; 
second,  because  Archibald  McKinlay,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  fort  and  was  a  warm 
personal  friend  of  Dr.  Whitman,  says  that  at  the  time  of  the  visit  sjjoken  of  there  was 
no  one  at  Walla  Walla  but  the  half  dozen  regular  attaches  of  the  fort,  and  that  the 
Montreal  express  did  not  arrive  until  two  weeks  after  Whitman  had  departed  for  the 
East,  during  which  time  Mrs.  Whitman  remained  his  guest  and  then  proceeded  down 
the  river  under  its  protection;  third,  because  the  question  of  such  a  journey  had  been 
discussed  by  Whitman  and  his  associates  at  a  special  meeting  for  that  purpose  several 
weeks  before  and  the  journey  agreed  ujjou  and  a  day  set  for  the  departure.  Let  us 
pass  from  the  realm  of  fiction  to  the  domain  of  facts. 

Dr.  Whitman  was  a  true  American,  an  enthusiastic  patriot  and  lover  of  his 
country's  institutions.  From  the  time  he  first  set  foot  in  Oregon  to  the  hour  of  his 
death,  the  Americanization  of  this  fair  land  was  one  of  his  proudest  hopes.  Dr.  Wil- 
liam C.  McKay,  son  of  Thomas  ]McKay,  says  that  in  1838  his  father,  who  was  then  in 
charge  of  Fort  Hall,  decided  to  send  him  to  Scotland  to  be  educated.  When  they 
reached  Waiilatpu,  where  they  were  to  sei^arate,  William  to  go  by  the  Manitoba  route 
and  his  father  to  Fort  Hall,  Dr.  Whitman  strongly  urged  McKay  to  send  his  son  to 
the  United  States  to  be  educated,  and  "make  an  American  of  him,"  since  Oregon  would 
surelv  belong  to  the  Americans.      McKav   was  convinced,  William's  destination  Avas 


OREGON.  139 

clianged  and  lie  ])r(j(,'eeded  by  the  way  of  Fort  Hall  to  the  States.  He  received  his 
education  at  Fairfield,  X.  Y.,  where  Whitman  himself  had  attended  school.  This  in- 
cident reveals  the  Doctor's  abiding  faith  in  the  destiny  of  Oregon.  Gifted  with  a 
pliilosojihical  mind  and  keen  perceptive  faculties,  he  gathered  from  the  visit  of  Gov- 
ernor Simpson  and  the  arrival  of  Red  river  immigrants  in  1841,  an  inkling  of  the 
plans  of  the  company  for  ac(juiring  Oregon.  His  mind  dwelt  on  the  subject  during 
the  following  spring  and  summer,  and  when  the  American  immigrants  arrived  that 
tall  with  intelligence  that  negotiations  were  in  progress  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain  to  settle  definitely  the  boundary  line,  he  realized  the  deep-laid  jilan  of 
the  company.  With  A.  Lawrence  Lovejoy,  one  of  the  immigrants  who  had  stopped 
near  the  mission  to  recruit,  he  often  convei'sed  about  the  situation,  and  one  day  asked 
if  he  would  accompany  him  on  a  journey  back  to  the  States.  Though  the  winter 
season  was  just  coming  on,  Lovejoy  consented  to  thus  aid  him  in  his  effort  to  save  Ore- 
gon to  the  United  States.  Whitman  summoned  his  associates  from  Lapwai  and  the 
Tshimakain  mission  among  the  Spokane  Indians,  to  consult  in  regard  to  the  matter. 
Spalding,  Gray,  Eells  and  Walker  soon  assembled  at  Waiilatpu,  and  when  the  Doctor 
laid  before  them  his  plan  for  saving  Oregon,  they  unanimously  opposed  it,  on  the 
ground  that  missionary  work  and  politics  should  not  be  confused  with  each  other.  To 
this  Whitman  replied  that  his  first  duty  was  to  his  country,  and  if  his  mission  inter- 
fered with  the  discharge  of  it  he  would  resign.  Knowing  his  inflexible  character  and 
deep  convictions  of  duty,  they  dared  no  longer  oppose  him  for  fear  of  losing  the 
master  spirit  of  their  mission,  and  gave  a  reluctant  assent.  That  he  might  have  official 
authority  to  leave  his  charge  and  that  the  real  object  of  his  journey  might  not  be 
known  by  the  officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  they  delegated  him  to  proceed 
to  Boston  to  transact  certain  business  in  the  interest  of  the  missions.  The  day  of  his 
departure  was  set  for  the  fifth  of  October,  and  the  several  members  departed  to  their 
fields  of  labor  to  prepare  reports  of  their  missions  for  him  to  take  to  Boston.  The  pro- 
ceedings of  this  meeting  were  recorded  in  a  book,  which  Avas  lost  at  the  time  of  the 
Whitman  massacre.  The  papers  having  arrived,  and  all  being  in  readiness  for  the 
journey,  Whitman  went  to  Fort  Walla  Walla,  some  authorities  say  to  administer  to  a 
sick  person,  while  Dr.  Geiger,  whom  Whitman  left  in  charge  of  Waiilatpu  during  his 
absence,  says  that  it  was  to  interview  McKinlay  in  regard  to  the  situation.  At  all 
events,  his  conversation  with  McKinlay  whetted  his  anxiety  to  depart,  and  he  re- 
solved to  start  at  once.  Twenty-four  hours  later  he  and  his  traveling  companion 
turned  their  backs  ujion  Oregon  and  entered  boldly  u])on  a  journey  they  knew  would 
be  attended  with  hardships  and  suffering  such  as  they  had  never  before  experienced . 
The  only  record  of  that  memorable  journey  is  a  letter  written  by  Mr.  Lovejoy,  and  the 
only  accounts  of  what  Whitman  did  and  where  he  went  come  from  those  who  con  - 
ver.sed  with  him  on  the  subject  and  several  who  saw  him  at  different  places  in  the  East 
inchuling  the  emigrants  with  whom  he  returned  to  Oregon.  From  the  noble  martyr 
himself  there  comes  no  word,  save  a  letter  written  while  at  St.  Louis  the  following 
spring,  yet  these  are  enough  to  place  him  first  on  the  list  of  those  whose  names  should 
be  linked  with  Oregon  so  long  a^  history  siiall  hot.  Of  that  memoral)le  journey  Love- 
joy says 


"  We  left  AVaiilatpu  October  3, 1842,  traveled  rapidly,  reached  Fort  Hall  in  eleven 
days,  remained  two  days  to  recruit  and  make  a  few  purchases.  The  Doctor  engaged  a 
guide  and  we  left  for  Fort  Wintee.  We  changed  from  a  direct  route  to  one  more 
southern,  through  the  Spanish  country  via  Salt  Lake,  Taos  and  Santa  Fe.  On  our 
way  from  Fort  Hall  to  Fort  Wintee  we  had  terribly  severe  weather.  The  snows 
retarded  our  progress  and  blinded  the  trail  so  we  lost  much  time.  After  arriving  at 
Fort  AVintee  and  making  some  purchases  for  our  trip,  we  took  a  new  guide  and  started 
for  Fort  Uncumpagra,  situated  on  the  waters  of  Grand  river,  in  the  Spanish  country. 
Here  our  stay  was  very  short.  We  took  a  new  guide  and  started  for  Taos.  After 
being  out  some  four  or  five  days  we  encountered  a  terrific  snow  storm,  which  forced  us 
to  take  shelter  in  a  deep  ravine,  where  we  remained  snowed  in  for  four  days,  at  which 
time  the  storm  had  somewhat  abated,  and  we  attempted  to  make  our  way  out  upon  the 
high  lands,  but  the  snow  was  so  deep  and  the  winds  so  piercing  and  cold  we  were 
compelled  to  return  to  camp  and  wait  a  few  days  for  a  change  of  weather.  Our  next 
effort  to  reach  the  high  lands  was  more  successful ;  but  after  spending  several  days 
wandering  around  in  the  snow  without  making  much  headway,  our  guide  told  us  that  the 
deep  snow  had  so  changed  the  face  of  the  country  that  he  was  completely  lost  and  could 
take  us  no  further.  This  was  a  terrible  blow  to  the  Doctor  but  he  was  determined  not 
to  give  it  up  without  another  efibrt.  We  at  once  agreed  that  the  Doctor  should  take 
the  guide  and  return  to  Fort  Uncumpagra  and  get  a  new  guide,  and  I  remain  in  camp 
with  the  animals  until  he  could  return  ;  which  he  did  in  seven  days  with  our  new 
guide,  and  we  were  now  on  our  route  again.  Nothing  of  much  import  occurred  but 
hard  and  slow  traveling  through  deep  snow  until  we  reached  Grand  river,  which  was 
frozen  on  either  side  about  one-third  across.  Although  so  intensely  cold,  the  current 
was  so  very  rapid  about  one-third  of  the  river  in  the  center  was  not  frozen.  Our  guide 
thought  it  would  be  dangerous  to  attempt  to  cross -the  river  in  its  present  condition,  but 
the  Doctor,  nothing  daunted,  was  the  first  to  take  the  water.  He  mounted  his  horse — 
the  guide  and  myself  shoved  the  Doctor  and  his  horse  off  the  ice  into  the  foaming 
stream.  Away  he  went  completely  under  water,  horse  and  all,  but  directly  came  up, 
and  after  buffeting  the  rapid,  foaming  current  he  reached  the  ice  on  the  opposite  shore 
a  long  way  down  the  stream.  He  leaped  from  his  horse  upon  the  ice  and  soon  had 
his  noble  animal  by  his  side.  The  guide  and  myself  forced  in  the  pack  animals  and 
followed  the  Doctor's  example,  and  were  soon  on  the  opposite  shore  drying  our  frozen 
clothes  by  a  comfortable  fire.  We  reached  Taos  in  about  thirty  days,  suffered  greatly 
from  cold  and  scarcitv  of  provisions.  We  were  compelled  to  use  mule  meat,  dogs,  and 
such  other  animals  as  came  in  our  reach.  We  remained  at  Taos  a  few  days  only,  and 
started  for  Bent's  and  Savery's  Fort,  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas  river.  When 
we  had  been  out  some  15  or  20  days,  we  met  George  Bent,  a  brother  of  Gov.  Bent, 
on  his  way  to  Taos.  He  told  us  that  a  party  of  mountain  men  would  leave  Bent's  Fort 
in  a  few  days  for  St.  Louis,  but  said  we  would  not  reach  the  fort  with  our  pack  ani- 
mals in  time  to  join  the  party.  The  Doctor  being  very  anxious  to  join  the  party  so 
he  could  push  on  as  rapidly  as  possible  to  Washington,  concluded  to  leave  myself  and 
guide  with  the  animals,  and  he  himself  taking  the  best  animal  with  some  bedding  and 
a  small  allowance  of  provision,  started  alone,  hoping  by  rapid  travel  to  reach  the  fort 
in  time  to  join  the  St.  Louis  party,  but  to  do  so  he  would  have  to  travel  on  the  Sab- 


'-'-v^^^-l^;**- 


t 


V 


i 


OREGON.  141 

bath,  sDiuethiug  we  had  not  done  before.  Myself  and  guide  traveled  on  slowly  and 
reachetl  the  fort  in  four  days,  but  imagine  our  astonishment  when  on  making  in([uiry 
about  the  Doctor  we  were  told  that  he  had  not  arrived  nor  had  he  been  heard  of.  I 
learned  that  the  party  for  St.  Louis  was  camped  at  the  Big  Cottonwood,  forty  miles 
from  the  fort,  and  at  my  request  Mr.  Savery  sent  an  express,  telling  the  party  not  to 
proceed  any  further  until  we  learned  something  of  Dr.  Whitman's  whereabouts,  as  he 
wished  to  accompany  them  to  St.  Louis.  Being  furnished  by  the  gentlemen  of  the 
fort  with  a  suitable  guide  I  started  in  search  of  the  Doctor,  and  traveled  up  the  river 
about  one  hundred  miles.  I  learned  from  the  Indians  that  a  man  had  been  there  who 
was  lost  and  was  trying  to  find  Bent's  Fort.  They  said  they  had  directed  him  to  go 
down  the  river  and  how  to  find  the  fort.  I  knew  from  their  descrijjtion  it  was  the 
Doctor.  1  returned  to  the  fort  as  rapidly  as  possible,  but  the  Doctor  had  not  arrived. 
We  had  all  become  very  anxious  about  him.  Late  in  the  afternoon  he  came  in  very 
much  fatigued  and  desponding ;  said  that  he  knew  that  God  had  bewildered  him  to 
punish  him  for  traveling  on  the  Sabbath.  During  the  whole  trip  he  was  very  regular 
in  his  morning  and  evening  devotions,  and  that  was  the  only  time  I  ever  knew  him  to 
travel  on  the  Sabbath." 

He  at  once  pushed  on  with  the  mountaineers,  leaving  Lovejoy  at  Bent's  Fort, 
and  reached  St.  Louis  in  February.  There  he  inquired  eagerly  abijut  the  status  of  ne- 
gotiations on  the  Oregon  question,  and  learned  that  the  Ashburton-Webster  treaty  had 
been  signed  on  the  ninth  of  the  preceding  August,  been  ratified  by  the  senate,  and  had 
been  proclaimed  by  the  president  on  the  tenth  of  November.  He  was  too  late  by  more 
than  three  months  to  have  prevented  the  treaty;  but  his  journey  was  not  in  vain,  for 
the  Oregon  boundary  had  notbaen  included  in  the  treaty,  had  not  even  -been  discussed, 
in  fact,  as  appears  from  Mr.  Webster's  speeches  and  correspondence.  This  intelligence 
brought  relief  to  the  Doctor's  overwrought  feelings.  There  was  still  an  opportunity 
for  him  to  accomplish  liis  purpose.  He  found  great  preparations  being  made  all  along 
the  frontier  to  emigrate  to  the  Willamette  valley,  notwithstanding  the  prevailing  opinion 
that  wagons  could  not  proceed  beyond  Fort  Hall.  He  immediately  wrote  a  small 
])amphlet  describing  Oregon  and  the  nature  of  the  route  thither,  urging  people  to  em- 
igrate and  assuring  them  that  wagons  could  go  through,  and  that  he  would  join  them 
and  be  their  })ilot.  This  pamphlet  and  his  earnest  personal  appeals  were  efficacious  in 
adding  somewhat  to  the  number  of  emigrants,  though  it  is  a  fact  that  probably  the 
greater  portion  of  those  who  started 'from  tlie  border  of  Missouri  in  May  never  heard 
of  Dr.  Whitman  until  he  joined  them  on  the  route  ;  for  the  emigration  was  chiefly 
the  result  of  the  reports  of  Oregon  received  from  trappers,  letters  written  to  friends  in 
^lissouri  by  Robert  Shortess,  who  came  out  in  1839,  and  debates  in  congress  the  year 
before.  That  AVhitman's  efforts  added  somewhat  to  the  number  of  emigrants  is  true, 
but  that  he  initiated  the  movement  or  even  contributed  largely  to  it  does  not  ap[)ear. 
He  was  too  late  for  that;  the  movement  was  well  under  way  before  his  arrival. 

After  writing  his  pamphlet  his  next  anxiety  was  to  reach  Washington  before  con- 
gress adjourned,  so  that  he  might  have  an  opportunity  to  meet  congressmen  and  urge 
upon  them  the  claims  of  Oregon.  He  did  not  undertake  to  change  his  apparel,  which 
is  thus  described  by  Dr.  William  Barrows,  who  met  him  in  St.  Louis  :  "  The  Doctor 
was  in  (•  larse  fur  garments  and    vesting,   and    l)uckskin   brecfhes.      He  wore  a  buffalo 


142  OREGON. 

coat,  with  a  hcad-liood  for  emergencies  in  taking  a  .storm,  or  a  bivonac  uap.  What 
with  heavy  fur  leggings  and  boot  moccasins,  his  legs  filled  uji  well  his  Mexican  stirrups. 
With  all  this  warmth  and  almost  burden  of  skin  and  fur  clothing,  he  bore  the  marks 
of  the  irresistible  cold  and  merciless  storms  of  his  journey.  His  fingers,  ears,  nose 
and  feet  had  been  frost-bitten,  and  were  giving  him  much  trouble."  Such  was  Whit- 
man when  in  St.  Louis,  such  was  he  still  when  on  the  third  of  March  he  appeared  in 
Washington,  having  been  to  Ithica,  New  York,  to  ask  for  the  co-operation  of  Dr. 
Samuel  Parker,  his  first  missionary  associate,  and  such  was  he  still  later  in  Boston, 
where  he  treated  the  rebukes  of  the  officers  of  the  American  Board  with  a  quiet  con- 
tempt that  astonished  and  disarmed  them. 

He  found  in  Washington  that  the  prevalent  ideas  of  Oregon  were  far  diflferent 
from  those  along  the  frontier.  Public  men  possessed  but  little  knowledge  of  the  terri- 
tory west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  deemed  it  of  but  little  value  because  of  its  sup- 
posed sterile  soil  and  inhospitable  climate.  Such  had  been  the  prevailing  idea  since 
Lewis  and  Clarke  had  subsisted  on  dog  meat  and  Hunt's  party  had  experienced  such 
terrible  privations  in  passing  through  it;  such,  also,  was  the  idea  fostered  by  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  and  urged  by  England.  It  was  the  Great  American  Desert,  fit 
only  for  the  abode  of  Indians  and  trappers.  A  year  later  in  a  congressional  debate  it 
was  asserted  that:  "With  the  exception  of  the  land  alougt  he  Willamette  and  strips 
along  a  few  of  the  water  courses,  the  whole  country  is  among  the  most  irreclaimable 
barren  wastes  of  which  we  have  read,  except  the  desert  of  Sahara.  Nor  is  this  the 
worst  of  it.  The  climate  is  so  unfriendly  to  human  life  that  the  native  population  has 
dwindled  away  under  the  ravages  of  its  malaria  to  a  degree  which  defies  all  history  to 
furnish  a  parallel  in  so  wide  a  range  of  country." 

To  prove  the  contrary  of  this  and  to  demonstrate  that  (Jregon  could  be  settled  by 
emigration  from  the  States  was  Whitman's  task.  He  had  interviews  with  Secretary 
Webster,  President  Tyler  and  many  members  of  congress,  in  which  he  urged  the  im- 
portance of  securing  for  the  United  States  as  much  of  the  indefinite  region  known  as 
Oregon  as  possible,  asserting  that  its  agricultural  and  timber  resources  were  unbounded. 
He  told  them  of  the  large  emigration  preparing  to  start  thither,  and  declared  that  he 
would  accompany  them  and  show  them  a  route  by  which  they  could  take  wagons  clear 
to  the  Willamette.  His  earnest  protestations  made  a  deep  impression  upon  many, 
especially  President  Tyler,  and  he  was  assured  that  if  he  could  demonstrate  these 
things  it  would  have  a  powerful  effect  upon  the  solution  of  the  Oregon  question. 

Whitman  then  visited  Boston  to  discharge  the  official  object  of  his  journey,  and 
was  severely  censured  for  leaving  his  mission  upon  so  trivial  a  pretext.  Then,  after 
spending  a  few  days  at  home,  he  hastened  to  the  frontier  to  join  the  emigrants,  some  of 
whom  had  already  started  and  were  not  overtaken  by  him  till  they  had  reached  the 
Platte.  His  appearance  among  them  was  the  first  time  the  majority  of  them  knew  of 
the  existence  of  such  a  man  ;  yet  even  these  universally  acknowledge  that  his  services 
as  guide  and  advisor  on  the  route  were  almost  indispensable.  Reaching  Fort  Hall  the 
earnest  representations  made  by  the  official  in  charge  that  wagons  could  not  cross  the 
mountains  between  that  post  and  the  Columbia  had  a  most  demoralizing  effect.  Had 
it  not  been  for  AVhitman  many  would  have  changed  their  destination  to  California, 
while  the  remainder,  leaving  their  wagons,  plows  and  implements  behind,  would  have 


continued  the  journe}'  to  Oregon  with  only  what  they  eouhl  paek  upon  tlieir  animals. 
Earnestly  he  [)Ieadcd  with  them,  assured  them  that  he  would  guide  them  safely  through, 
that  they  had  found  his  counsel  good  in  the  past  and  should  trust  liim  for  the  future. 
They  did  trust  him;  the  wagons  passed  on,  and  after  surmounting  every  obstacle  he 
led  them  to  the  open  plain  in  front  of  the  mission  at  AVaiilatpu.  He  had  won  the  day 
for  his  country. 

This  great  train  of  hardy  jjioneers  who  had  come  to  Americanize  Oregon,  con- 
tained 875  persons,  of  whom  295  were  men  over  sixteen  years  of  age.  A  complete 
roll  of  names  was  taken  at  the  time  by  J.  W.  Nesmith,  and  is  as  follows  : 

.[esse  A23plegate,  Charles  Applegate,  Lindsay  Applegate,  James  Athey,  William 
Athey,  John  Atkinson,  William  Arthur,  Robert  Arthur,  David  Arthur,  Amon  But- 
ler, George  Brooke,  Peter  H.  Burnett,  David  Bird,  Thomas  A.  Brown,  Alexander 
Blevins,  John  P.  Brooks,  Martin  Brown,  Oris  Brown,  J.  P.  Black,  Layton  Bane, 
Andrew  Baker,  John  G.  Baker,  William  Beagle,  Levi  Boyd,  William  Baker,  Nich- 
olas Biddle,  George   Beale,  James  Braid)',  George  Beadle, Boardman,  William 

Baldridge,  F.  C.  C'ason,  James  Cason,  William  Chapman,  John  Cox,  Jacob  Champ, 
L.  C.  Cooper,  James  Cone,  JNIoses  Childers,  Miles  Carey,  Thomas  Cochran,  L.  Clymour, 
John  Copenhaver,  J.  H.  Caton,  Alfred  Chappel,  Daniel  Cronin,  Samuel  Cozine, 
Benedict  Costable,  Joseph  Childs,  Ransom  Clark,  John  G.  Campbell, Chap- 
man, James  Chase,  Solomon  Dodd,  William  C.  Dement,  W.  P.  Doughertv,  William 
Day,  James  Duncan,  Jacob  Dorin,  Thonras  Davis,  Daniel  Delaney,  Daniel  Delaney, 
Jr.,  William   Delaney,   William  Doke,   J.   H.  Davis,  Burrell   Davis,  George  Dailey, 

John    Doherty,     Dawson,    Charles    Eaton,    Nathan    Eaton,    James    Etchell, 

Solomon  Emerick,  John  W.  Eaker,  E.  G.  Edson,  Miles  Eyres,  John  W.  East, 
Niuiwon  Everman,  Ninevah  Ford,  Ephram  Ford,  Nimrod  Ford,  John  Ford, 
Alex.  Francis,  Abner  Fraziei-,  W^illiam  Frazier,  William  Fowlei-,  William  J 
Fowler,  Henry  Fowler,  Stephen  Fairly,  Charles  Fendall,  John  Gantt,  Chiley  B.  Gray, 
Enoch  (iarrison,  J.  W.  Garrison,  W.  J.  Garrison,  William  Gardner,  Samuel  Gardner, 

Mat.  Gilmore,  Richard  Goodman,  Major  Gilpin, Gray,  B.  Haggard,  H.  H.  Hide, 

William  Holmes,  Riley  A.  Holmes,  John  Hobson,  William  Hobson,  J.  J.  Hembre, 
.lames  Hembree,  Andrew  Hembre,  A.  J.  Hembre,  Samuel  B.  Hall,  James  H<mk, 
William  P.  Hughes,  Abijah  Hendrick,  James  Hays,  Thomas  J.  Hensley,  B.  Holley, 
Henry  Hunt,  S.  M.  Holderness,  Isaac  Hutchins,  A.  Husted,  Josejih  Hess,  Jacob 
Hann,  John  Howell,  William  Howell,  Wesley  Howell,  W.  G.  Howell,  Thomas  E. 
Howell,  Henry  Hill,  William  Hill,  Almoran  Hill,  Henry  Hewett,  William  Hargrove, 
A.  Hoyt,  John  Holman,  Daniel  Holman,  B.  Harrigas,  Calvin  James,  John  B.  -Jack- 
son, John  Jones,  Overton  Johnson,  Thomas  Keyser,    J.   B.  Keyser,  Pleasant  Keyser 

Kelley, Kelsey,  A.  L.  Lovejoy,  Edward  Lenox,   E.  Lenox,  Aaron  Layson, 

Jesse  Looney,  John  E.  Long,  H.  A.  G.  Lee,  F.  Lugur,  Lew  Linebarger,  John 
Linebarger,  Isaac  Laswx'll,  J.  Loughborough,  Milton  Little, Luther,  John  Lau- 
derdale,    Mc(Jec,  William  J.  ^Martin,  James  Martin.  -Iiilius  .Martin, Mc- 
Clelland, F.  McClelland.  John  15.  Mills,  Isaac  Mills,  William  .V.  Mills,  Owen 
Mills,  G.  W.  McGarey,  (Jilbert  Mondon,  Daniel  Matheny.  .Vdani  Matheny,  J.  X. 
Matheny,  -losiah  Matheny,  Henry  Matheny,  A.  J.  Mastire.  John  .McHaley,  Jacob 
Myers,  John    .Manning,  J^ames   Manning,   M.   M.   IMcCarvcr,   George   .McCorrle,  Wil- 


liam  Mays,  Elijah  Millicau,  William  McDaniel,  D.  McKissie,  Madison  Malone, 
John  B.  MeClane,  William  Manzee,  John  Melntire,  John  Moore,  ^\\  J.  Matney,  J.W. 
Nesmith,  W.  T.  Newby,  Noah  Newman,  Thomas  Nayler,  Neil  Osborn,  Hugh  D. 
O'Brien,  Humi^hrey  O'Brien,  Thomas  A.  Owen,  Thomas  Owen,  E.  ^V.  Otie,  M.  B. 
Otie,  Bennett  O'Neil,  A.  Olinger,  Jesse  Parker.  AVilliam  Parker,  J.  B.  Pennington,  R. 
H.  Poe,  Bamuel  Painter  J.  R.  Patterson,  Charles  E.  Pickett,  Frederick  Prigg,  Clayborii 
Paine,  P.  B.  Reading,  S.  P.  Rodgers,  G.  W,  Rodgers,  AVilliam  Rnssell,  James  Roberts, 
G.  W.  Rice,  John  Richardson,  Daniel  Richardson,  Philip  Ruby,  John  Ricord,  Jacob 
Reid,  John  Roe,  Solomon  Roberts,  Emseley  Roberts,  Joseph  Rossin,  Thomas  Rives, 
Thomas  H.  Smith,  Thomas  Smith,  Isaac  W.  Smith,  Anderson  Smith,  Ahi  Smith,  Robert 
Smith,  Eli  Smith,  William  Sheldon,  P.  G.  Stewart,  Dr.  Nathaniel  Sutton,  C.  Stimmer- 

man,  C.  Sharp,  AV.  C.  Summers,  Henry  Sewell,  Henry  Stout,  George  Sterling, 

Stout, Stevenson,  James  Story, Swift,  John  M.   Shively,  Samuel  Shirley, 

Alexander  Stoughton,  Chauncey  Spencer,  Hiram  Strait,  George  Summers,  Cornelius 
Stringer,  C.  AV.  Stringer,  Lindsey  Tharp,  John  Thompson,  D.  Trainor,  Jeremiah  Teller, 
Stephen  Tarbox,  John  Umnicker,  Samuel  Vance,  AVilliam  Vaughn,  George  Vernon, 
James  Wilmont,  William  H.  AVilson,  J.  W.  Wair,  Archibald  Winkle,  Edward  Williams, 
H.  AVheeler,  John  Wagoner,  Benjamin  AVilliams,  David  AVilliams,  William  AVilson, 
John  Williams,  James  Williams,  Squire  Williams,  Isaac  Williams,  T.  B.  Ward,  James 
White,  John  (Betty)  Watson,  James  Waters,  AVilliam  Winter,  Daniel  Waldo,  David 
Waldo,  William  AValdo,  Alexander  Zachary,  John  Zachary. 

Add  to  these  the  following  settlers  residing  here  when  the  others  arrived  : 

Pleasant  Armstrong,  Hugh  Burns,  Brown,  AVilliam  Brown,  — —  Brown, 

J.  M.  Black,   William  Baldra,"  James  Balis,  Dr.  W.  J.  Bailey, Brainard,  Medo- 

rem  Crawford;  David  Carter,  Samuel  Campbell,  Jack  Campbell,  AVilliam  Craig,  Amos 

Cook,    Aaron   Cook,  Conner,  William  Cannon,    Allen   Davy,    William   Doty, 

Richard  Eakin,  Squire  Ebbert,  John  Edwards,  Philip   Foster,  John  Force,   James 

Force,  Francis  Fletcher,   George  Gay,  Joseph  Gale, Girtman,  Felix  Hathaway, 

Peter  H.  Hatch,  Thomas  Hubbard,  Adam  Hewitt,  Jeremiah  Horegon,  Joseph  Holman, 

David   Hill,  AVeberly  Hauxhurst,  Hutchinson,  William  Johnson,  King, 

Kelsey,   Reuben  Lewis,   G.  W.  LeBreton,   Jack  Larrison,    Joseph  L.  Meek,  F. 

X.  Mathieu,    John  AlcClure,   S.  AV.  Moss,  Robert  Moore, IMcFadden,   AVilliam 

McCarty,     Charles   McKay,    Thomas    McKay,  Morrison,    J.  AV.  Mack,  

Newbanks,  Robert  Newell,  James  A.  O'Neil,  F.  AV.  Pettygrove,  Dwight  Pomeroy, 

Walter  Pomeroy,  Perry, Rimmick,   Osborn   Russell,  J.  R.  Robb,  Robert 

Shortess,    Sidney  Smith, Smith,  Andrew   Smith,    Andrew  Smith,   Jr.,   Darling 

Smith,  Spence,  Jack  Sailor,  Joel  Turnham,  Turner,  Hiram  Taylor,  Cal- 
vin Tibbetts,    Trask,    C.  M.  AValker,    Jack  AVarnei-,    A.   E.   AVilson,    David 

Winslow,  Caleb  Wilkins,  Henry  AVood.  B.  AVilliams. 

Also  add  the  following  members  of  Protestant  missions  : 

Dr.  Marcus  AVhitman,  A.  F.  Waller,  David  Leslie,  Hamilton  Campbell,  George 
Abernethy,  William  H.  Wilson,  L.  H.  Judson,  W.  H.  Gray,  E.  Walker,  Gushing 
Eells,  Alanson  Beers,  Jason  Lee,  Gustavus  Hines,  H.  K.  AV.  Perkins,  M.  H.  B.  Brewer, 
Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock,  Dr.  Elijah  White,  Harvey  Clark,  H.  H.  Spalding,  J.  L.  Parrish, 
H.  AV.  Raymond. 


TVV 


H. Gate's  Flouring  Mill, Roseburg. 


OREGON.  145 

The  above  list  includes  nearly  every  male  resident  of  Oregon  in  1843,  exclusive 
of  the  ex-employees  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  those  still  in  its  service. 

On  the  heels  of  the  emigrant  train,  came  the  exploring  party  of  Lieutenant  John 
C.  Fremont,  who  had  explored  the  Rocky  mountains  the  year  before.  After  spending 
a  few  days  at  Vancouver,  he  passed  south,  crossed  the  Cascades  to  Eastern  Oregon, 
continued  south  into  Nevada,  and  then  with  much  labor  and  suffering,  crossed  the  snow- 
bound Sierra  Nevada  to  Sutter's  Fort  in  the  Sacramento  valley.  Though  he  earned 
the  title  of  Pathfinder,  he  found  his  way  to  Oregon  clearly  marked  by  the  wheels  of 
tlie  wagons  that  had  preceded  him. 

E  irly  in  18i3  the  effort  to  organize  a  provisional  government  was  renewed  by  the 
American  settlers,  who  were  unaware  of  the  great  reinforcements  already  on  the  way 
to  join  them.  Even  the  missionaries  were  not  trusted  in  the  primitive  councils  and 
oparations  of  the  organizers.  The  known  hostility  of  every  interest  in  Oregon  to  a 
government  not  under  control  of  such  interest,  caused  the  settlers  to  plan  with  great 
caution  and  execute  with  extreme  care.  It  became  necessary  for  them  to  deceive  every, 
one,  except  a  select  few,  in  regard  to  their  designs,  in  order  to  obtain  a  meeting  of  the 
settlers  under  circumstances  that  would  not  arouse  the  suspicion  of  those  adverse  to 
such  action,  and  array  them  in  active  hostility.  The  number  and  influence  of  such 
wore  sufficient,  when  combined,  to  strangle  the  movement  at  its  birth,  A  singular  de- 
vice was  resorted  to.  Wild  animals  had  been  destroying  the  young  stock,  and  those 
who  were  wealthiest  suffered  most  from  such  depredations.  The  Methodist  mission- 
aries ,and  Hudson's'  Bay  Company  were  consequently  more  anxious  than  the  other 
settlers  to  be  relieved  of  this  scourge.  There  was  but  one  sentiment,  every  one  wished 
the  depredators  exterminated,  and  to  do  it  necessitated  a  united  action,  an  assembling 
of  the  people,  and  an  organized  movement. 

The  conspirators  circulated  a  notice  calling  upon  resident  to  meet  for  this  pur- 
pose at  the  house  of  W.  H.  Gray  on  the  second  of  February,  1843.  The  meeting  took 
place  and  a  committee  of  six  was  chosen  to  perfect  a  plan  for  exterminating  wolves- 
baars  and  panthers,  and  then  call  a  general  meeting  of  the  settlers  to  whom  their  con- 
clusions were  to  be  submitted.      That  committee  consisted  of   W.  H.  Gray,  William 

H.  Wilson,   Alansou  Beers,  Joseph  Gervais,  a  Rocky  mountain  hunter  named 

Barnaby,   and  a  Frenchman  named  Lucie,  who  had  formerly  beer  a  member 

of  Astor's  expedition.  With  the  appointment  of  this  committee,  and  a  general  ex- 
change of  views  upon  the  subject  of  wolves,  bears,  jianthers,  and  the  best  way  to  get 
rid  of  their  destructive  raids  upon  stock,  the  meeting  adjourned  till  the  first  Monday 
in  March,  when  the  people  were  to  meet  at  the  house  of  Joseph  Gervais.  At  the  ad- 
journed meeting,  after  the  organization  had  been  completed,  one  of  the  gentlemen 
present  addressed  the  settlei's,  stating  that  no  one  would  question  for  a  moment  the 
rightfulness  of  the  proceedings  just  completed;  it  was  a  just,  natural  action  taken  by 
the  people  to  protect  their  live  stock  from  being  destroyed  by  wild  animals  ;  but  while 
they  were  so  solicitous  about  their  stock,  would  it  not  be  a  wise  thing  to  take  steps  for 
the  protection  of  themselves  and  their  families.  The  result  of  this  speech  was  the  ap- 
pi)intment  of  J.  L.  Babcock,  E^lijah  White,  Janies  A.  O'Neil,  Robert  Shortcss,  Robert 
Xt'wcll.   Lucie,  Josepli  Gervais,  Thomas  Hubbard,   C.  INIcRoy,   W.    H.   (iray. 


146  OREGON. 

Smith  and  George  Gay,  as  a  eoiiimittee  to  consider  the  propriety  of  orgauizing  a 

government. 

The  committee  soon  met  at  Oregon  City,  many  others  being  jiresent,  and  a  lively 
discussion  ensued.  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  George  Abernethy,  Revs.  Leslie  and  Hines,  and 
Mr.  Babcock,  took  strong  grounds  against  the  movement  and  declared  in  favor  of  a 
delay  of  four  years.  By  striking  the  office  of  governor  from  the  list,  a  unanimous 
vote  was  secured  to  call  a  meeting  on  the  second  of  May.  At  the  appointed  time  the 
people  assembled,  the  two  factions  being  almost  equal  in  strength,  being  fifty-two 
Americans  in  favor  of  organization  against  fifty,  chiefly  Hudson's  Bay  Company  men, 
opposed  to  it.  Like  Cameron,  the  great  ex-boss  of  Pennsylvania  politics,  who  said 
that  a  majority  of  one  was  all  the  majority  he  cared  for,  the  Americans  were  satisfied 
with  a  majority  of  two,  and  proceeded  with  the  work  of  organizing,  their  opponents 
leaving  in  disgust.     The  result  of  this  action  was  the  following  organization: 

Legislative  Committee — Robert  Shortess,  Robert  Xewell,  Alanson  Beers,  W.  H. 
Gray,  James  A.  O'Xeil,  Thomas  Hubbard,  David  Hill,  Robert  Moore,  William 
Dougherty.  Supreme  Judge  with  probate  powers — A.  E.  Wilson.  Clerk  and  Re- 
corder— George  W.  LeBreton.  Sheriffs — Joseph  L.  Meek.  Treasurer,  W.  H.  Wilson. 
Magistrates — A.  B.  Smith,  Hugh  Burns,  Compo  and  L.  H.  Judson.  Con- 
stables— Squire  Ebbert,    Bridgers,  Reuben   Lewis  and  F.  X.  Mathieu.     Major — • 

John  Howard.     Captains — William  McCarty,  C.  McRoy  and  S.  Smith. 

The  committee  was  instructed  to  report  on  the  fifth  of  July  at  Champoeg.  At 
the  time  appointed  the  committee  made  its  report,  which  was  adopted,  in  which  the 
laws  of  Iowa  were  declared  in  force  so  far  as  they  applied,  and  the  executive  manage- 
ment of  the  government  entrusted  to  a  committee  of  three  instead  of  a  governor.  For 
this  committee,  David  Hill,  Alanson  Beers  and  Joseph  Gale  were  chosen,  and  at  last 
the  American  settlers  in  Oregon  had  a  government.  The  struggle  was  over,  for  the 
great  emigration  which  a  few  weeks  later  came  in  with  Whitman  settled  the  question 
of  American  supremacy  and  the  stability  of  the  newly  organized  government. 

The  first  regular  election  was  held  May  14,  1844,  to  choose  officers  of  the  provis- 
ional government,  at  which  200  votes  were  cast.  P.  G.  Stewart,  Osborn  Russell  and 
W.  J.  Bailey  were  chosen  executive  committee ;  Dr.  John  E.  Long,  clerk  and  re- 
corder; James  L.  Babcock,  su^jreme  judge;  Philip  Foster,  treasurer;  Jose2:)h  L. 
Meek,  sheriff".  The  territory  had  been  partitioned  into  four  legislative  districts.  The 
Tualatin  district  included  what  now  is  Washington,  Multnomah,  Columbia,  Clatsop 
and  Tillamook  counties,  and  the  jjersons  chosen  to  represent  it  were  Peter  H.  Burnett, 
afterwards  governor  of  California,  David  Hill,  M.  Gilmore  and  M.  M.  McCarver.  The 
Champoeg  district,  which  has  since  been  divided  into  Linn,  Marion,  Lane,  Josejihine, 
Coos,  Curry,  Benton,  Douglas  and  Jackson  counties,  was  represented  by  Robert  Xewell, 
Daniel  Waldo  and  Thomas  D.  Keizer.  In  the  Clackamas  district  was  what  is  now 
the  eastern  part  of  Oregon,  a  portion  of  Montana,  and  all  of  Idaho  and  Washington 
territories.  This  immense  region  with  its  few  settlers  was  represented  by  A.  L.  Love- 
joy,  Whitman's  companion  in  1842.  The  legislative  committee  elected  met  at  the 
house  of  Felix  Hathaway,  June  18,  1844,  and  chose  M.  M.  McCarver  speaker  of  the 
house.  A  nine  days'  session  followed,  when  they  adjourned  until  December  of  the 
same  year.     On  the  16th  of  December  the  legislative  committee  met  again,  this  time 


OREGON.  1^17 

at  the  house  of  J.  E.  Lung  in  Oregon  City,  wlien  a  message  was  submitted  to  them 
from  the  executive  committee,  in  which  an  amendment  of  the  organic  law  was  rec- 
ommended. A  seven  days'  session  followed,  during  which  an  act  was  passed  calling 
for  a  committee  to  fi'ame  a  constitution.  Several  acts  were  passed  requiring  submis- 
sion to  a  popular  vote  to  render  them  valid,  among  which  was  a  change  from  the  tri- 
umvirate to  gubernatorial  executive,  and  from  a  legislative  committee  to  a  legislature, 
which  was  adopted  by  the  i)eople. 

The  immigration  of  1844  consisted  of  800  people,  of  whom  '2oO  were  ablc-ljodied 
men.     The  following  list  contains  the  names  of  the  greatei-  portion  of  them  : 

Alderman,   Bird,   Nathan   Buzzard,   Charles  Burch,    Rol)ert  Boyd, 

William  Black,  Blakely,   George  W.  Bush,  Thomas   Boggs,  William  Bowman, 

Sr.,  William  Bowman,  Jr.,  Ira  Bowman,  Elijah  Bunton,  Joseph  Bunton,  William  Bun- 
ton,  Charles  Buich,  Capt.  C.  Bennett,  Francis  Bordran,  Joseph  Bartrough,  William 
Bray,  Nathan  Bayard,  Adam  Brown,  Peter  Bonnin,  David  Crawford,  Lewis  Crawford, 

Daniel   Clark,    Dennis    Clark,  Clemens,    James   Cave,  Joel  Crisman,  Gabriel 

Crisman,  William  Crisman,  Aaron  Chamberlain,  Patrick  Conner,  Samuel  B.  Crockett, 

Wm.  M.  Case,  William   Clemens,  Dougherty, Doty,    Jas  .Davenport,  Dr. 

Dagon,  Daniel  Durban,  Edward  Dupuis,  C.  Emery,  Moses  Edes,  C.  Evernian,  John 
Eades,  Abr.  Eades,  Henry  Eades,  Clark  Eades,  Solomon  Eades,  David  Evans,  N.  D.  Evans, 
Robert  Eddy,  Jno.  Ellick,  Jno.  Fleming,  Nathaniel  Ford,  Mark  Ford,  Jas.  Fruit,  '"Doc" 
Fruit,  Jenny  Fuller,  I.  N.  Gilbert,  David  Goff",  Samuel  Goff,  Marion  Gofi',  David  Grant, 
Mitchell  Gilliam,  Cornelius  Gilliam,  Smith  Gilliam,  Wm.  Gilliam,  Porter  Gilliam,  Wm. 

Gage,  Jesse  Gage,  W.  H.  Goodwin, Gillespie,  James  Gerrish,  Jno.  Gerrish,  Martin 

Gillahan,  William  Gillahan,  Charles  Gilmore,  Alansou  Hinjuan,  A.  F.  Hedges,  Jacob 
Hutton,  Fleming  Hill,  J.  C.  Hawley,  Jacob  Hoover,  T.  Holt,  James  Harper,  Joseph 
Holman,  John  Howard,  James  Hunt,  Norris  Humphrey,  Jacob  Hammer,  Herman 
Higgins,  William  Higgins,  George  Hibler,  John  Inyard,  Abr.  Inyard,  Peter  Inyard, 
William  Johnson,  James  Johnson,  David  Johnson,  Daniel  Johnson,  James  Johnson. 
John  Jackson,  David  Jenkins,  William  Jenkins,  Henry  Jenkins,  David  Kindred,  Bart, 
Kindred,  John  Kindred,  Daniel  Kinney,  Barton  Lee,  John  Lousenaute,  Charles  Lewis, 
William  Morgan,  Theophilus  ]\IcGruder,  Ed.  McGruder,  John  Minto,  Joshua  McDaniel, 

Elisha  ]\IcDaniel,  Mrs.  McDaniel, ]Mc]Mahan,  Nehemiah  Martin,  Samuel  ]\rcSwain, 

James  McAllister,  R.  W.  Morrison,  ^lichacl  ]Moor,  James  W.  Marshall,  Lafe^]Mo]'eland, 

Westley  Mulkey,  Luke  Mulkey, Murray, Mudgett,  George  Neal,  Attey.  Neal, 

Calvin  Neal,  Robert  Neal,  Alex.  Neal,  Peter  Neal,  George  Nelson,  Cyrus  Nelson, 
John  Nichols,  Frank  Nichols,  Benjamin  Nichols,  Ruel  Owless,  Henry  Owens,  James 
Owens,  John  Owens,  John  (^wens,  Joel  Perkins,  Sr.,  Joel  Perkins,  Jr.,  John  Perkins, 

David  Parker, Priest,  Joseph   Parrot,  S.  Packwood,  T.  Packwood,  R.  K.  Payne, 

William  Prather,  Theodore  Prather,  Eaben  Pettie,  Amab  Pettie,  J.  Rowland,  E.  Rob- 
inson  (Mountain),  T.  G.  Robinson    (Fatty),  Ben  Roliinson,  Willard  H.  Recs,  Parton 

Rice,  Mac  Rice,   Rice    (Old   Man), Ramsey,  Ramsdell,   Franklin   Sears, 

Jackson  Shelton,  William  Sebring,  John  Scott,    Levi   Scott,  M.   T.   Sinnnons,  

Springer,  J.  S.  Smith,  Charles  Smith,  Peter  Smith,  William  Smith,  Noyes  Smith, 
Texas  Smith,  Henry  Saffron,  Big  Sis,  James  Stewart,  William  Saunders,  Joshua  Shaw, 
A.  C.  R.  Shaw  (Sheep),  Wash.  Shaw,  Thomas  Shaw,  B.  F.  Shaw.  (apt.  William  Shaw, 


James  Stephens, Sager  (died  on  Green  river ),  Charles  Saxton,  Vincent  Snelling, 

Benjamin  Snelling, Snooks,  Jerry  Teller,  Sebrin  Thornton,  O.  S.  Thomas,  John 

Thorp,  Alvin  Thorp,  Theodore  Thorj),  Mortimer  Thorp,  Milton  Thorp,  Cooper  Y. 
Trnes,  Benjamin  Tucker,  Long  Tucker,  Thomas  Vance  (died  on  the  Platte),  George 

Waunch,  Poe  AVilliams, Williams,  Harrison  Wright,  Eichard  Woodcock,  James 

Welsh,  James  Walker,  Sr.,  James  Walker,  Jr.,  Robert  Walker,  Henry  Williamson 
Joseph  Watt, Warmbough,  Thomas  AVerner. 

At  the  election  held  June  3,  1845,  a  total  of  504  votes  were  cast,  and  George 
Aberuethy  was  chosen  the  first  governor  of  Oregon.  The  other  officers  were,  John  E. 
Long,  secretary;  Francis  Ermatinger,  treasurer;  J.  W.  Nesmith,  judge;  Marcus  Ford, 
district  attorney ;  S.  W.  Moss,  assessor ;  Joseph  L.  Meek,  sheriff".  Two  new  districts,  or 
as  they  were  subsequently  called,  counties,  were  created,  being  Clatsop  and  Yamhill. 
A  new  code  of  laws  was  framed  by  the  legislature  then  elected,  and  was  adopted  by  the 
people  by  a  vote  of  255  to  52.  A  memorial  to  congress  was  then  adopted,  praying  for 
the  formation  of  a  regular  territorial  government,  which  was  carried  to  ashington  by 
Dr.  E.  White.  The  legislature  also  created  Polk  and  Lewis  counties,  the  latter  em- 
bracing all  of  Washington  west  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  Joseph  L.  Meek,  the  sheriff, 
was  instructed  to  take  a  census  of  the  population.  By  this  it  apj^ears  that  there  wei-e 
2,110  people  in  Oregon,  1,259  males  and  851  females. 

A  train  of  480  wagons  and  some  3,000  people  crossed  the  plains  in  1845,  guided 
by  Stephen  H.  Meek,  a  brother  of  the  sheriff,  the  same  who  had  taken  the  wagons  to 
Fort  Hall  in  1842.  At  Fort  Hall  about  one-third  severed  themselves  from  the  train 
and  went  to  California,  being  under  the  command  of  William  B.  Ide,  of  bear  flag 
notoriety,  and  guided  by  Greenwood,  the  trapper.  Meek  undertook  to  guide  them  by 
a  new  route  across  the  Blue  and  Cascade  mountains,  a  route  over  which  he  had  never 
passed.  He  lost  his  way  and  the  emigrants  started  out  on  their  own  responsibility. 
The  majority  of  them  by  a  terrible  struggle,  succeeded  in  passing  down  John  Day 
river  to  the  Columbia.  Even  this  episode  has  been  seized  ujion  hj  the  anti-Hudson's 
Bay  Company  men,  and  the  charge  made  that  Meek  was  employed  by  the  company 
to  cause  the  destruction  of  this  train  in  the  mountains.  The  fact  is  that  if  the  emi- 
grants had  only  trusted  him  a  few  days  longer,  the  guide  would  have  fulfilled  all  the 
promises  he  made  them.  As  it  was  they  came  near  hanging  him,  and  he  is  roundly 
abused  by  the  survivors  of  the  train  even  to  the  present  day. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  enjoying  a  thriving  trade  with  the  emigrants 
passing  by  their  posts  at  Fort  Hall,  Boise  and  Walla  Walla,  especially  in  purchasing 
for  almost  nothing  the  worn  out  cattle,  or  taking  them  in  exchange  for  wild  cattle 
which  were  to  be  delivered  by  the  chief  factor  at  Vancouver.  The  feeling  against  the 
company  was  very  bitter ;  and  a  number  of  men  who  had  settled  in  the  extreme 
southern  end  of  the  Willamette  valley,  among  whom  Jesse  and  Lindsay  Applegate 
were  leading  spirits,  determined  to  open  a  new  route  to  Oregon  from  Fort  Hall. 
They  organized  a  small  party,  which  passed  through  Umpqua  and  Rogue  river  val- 
leys, along  Klamath,  Tule  and  Goose  lakes,  and  across  northern  Nevada  to  Fort  Hall, 
where  were  found  a  large  number  of  emigrants,  numbering  2,000  souls  and  having  470 
teams  and  1,050  cattle.  About  one-half  the  number  passed  down  the  Humboldt  to  Cali- 
fornia, in  separate  trains,  among  which  was  the  Donner  party,  of   whom  so  many 


perished  in  tlie  inountaini^.  Of  the  remainder  the  greater  portion  followed  the  old 
ti'ail  down  Snake  river  and  reached  their  destination  after  encountering  the  usual 
hardshijis  of  the  trip.  A  train  of  150  people  with  forty-two  wagons  tried  the  new 
route  and  found  it  a  long  one,  almost  devoid  of  grass  and  water  until  they  reached 
Goose  lake.  They  suffered  severely  and  their  cattle,  half-starved  and  feeble,  could 
scarcely  pull  the  wagons  along ;  nor  was  this  the  end,  for  upon  reaching  the  canyon 
of  the  Umpqua  mountains  they  found  it  almost  impossible  to  proceed  and  many  of 
them  remained  a  long  time  in  the  mountain  fastness,  themselves  and  their  stock  in  a 
deplorable  condition,  while  others  only  reached  the  Willamette  by  abandoning  every- 
thing. Much  abuse  has  been  heaped  upon  the  heads  of  the  men  who  induced  the 
emigrants  to  try  this  new  route,  but  it  is  evidently  undeserved,  at  least  so  far  as  it  im- 
putes to  them  unworthy  motives.  They  passed  over  the  route  on  horseback  and  e\i- 
dently  did  not  realize  how  more  frequent  grass  and  watering  places  must  be  for  a  train 
of  wagons  than  for  horsemen.  However,  this  route  through  Nevada  was  a  few  years 
later  used  by  thousands  of  emigrants  entering  Northern  California  and  Southern 
Oregon,  though,  of  course,  the  good  camping  places  were  well  known  by  that  time. 
As  for  the  Umpqua  canyon,  wagons  were  taken  through  it  by  Stephen  H.  Meek  in 
1843,  and  would  have  been  easily  jxissable  by  this  party  had  their  stock  been  strong,  in- 
stead of  being  barely  able  to  stand  upon  their  feet,  such,  at  least,  as  were  not  lying  on 
the  burning  alkali  deserts  of  Nevada.  There  has  been  too  much  of  this  imputing  of 
bad  motives  for  the  conduct  of  those  who  differed  in  opinions  in  the  pioneer  days ;  and 
if  these  reckless  charges  could  be  credited,  instead  of  being  j^roperly  classed  as  the  bitter 
fruit  of  sectarian  or  political  prejudice,  we  would  be  compelled  to  believe  that  Oregon 
was  peopled  ]with  the  moral  refuse  of  society  instead  of  the  brave  and  noble-hearted 
men  and  women  we  well  know  them  to  have  been. 

Though  the  Oregon  question  had  been  practically  settled  by  the  American  immi- 
grants, it  was  not  officially  disposed  of  until  1846.  For  several  years  it  was  warmly 
discussed  at  every  session  of  congress  and  received  much  prominence  in  the  newspapers. 
The  people  at  large,  as  well  as  a  few  members  of  congress,  adopted  a  very  belligerent 
tone  and  asserted  the  superior  title  of  the  United  States  to  all  of  the  coast  south  of  the 
Russian  possessions.  In  the  presidential  contest  of  1844,  "  Fifty-four  forty  or  fight  " 
became  a  party  cry,  and  upon  that  issue  James  K.  Polk  was  elected.  In  his  first  mes- 
sage to  congress  the  new  president  devoted  one-fifth  of  the  space  to  an  exhaustive  dis- 
cussion of  the  question,  and  recommended  that  the  required  notice  for  a  termination  of 
the  treaty  of  joint  occupation  be  given,  that  military  posts  be  constructed  along  the 
emigrant  route  and  that  the  national  laws  be  extended  over  Oregon.  The  debate  which 
followed  was  long  and  earnest,  and  it  seemed  as  though  war  would  be  the  result. 
The  resolution  terminating  the  treaty  of  joint  occupation  passed  the  house  and  went  to 
the  senate,  where  for  many  days  it  engrossed  the  attention  of  the  greatest  statesmen  of 
America.  Finally  the  resolution  passed  that  body,  but  so  modified  as  to  strip  it  of  its 
l)ugnacious  tone  and  admit  of  a  compromise.  It  had  occupied  the  attention  of  (jongress 
for  four  months  and  twenty-one  days,  during  which  time  the  whole  country  had  been 
engaged  in  its  discussion  and  the  dark  cloud  of  war  hovered  over  the  nation.  Negotia- 
tions continued  between  the  two  governments  until  a  treaty  was  signed  on  the  seven- 
tecntli  of  , Tidy,  184(;.  by  which  the  l)oundary  line  of  tlu'4'.»th  parallel  east  of  the  Rocky 


150  OREGON. 

mountains  was  extended  to  the  Pacific,  but  not  including  in  the  United  States  any  por- 
tion of  Vancouver  island. 

On  the  fourth  of  June,  184(J,  officers  were  elected  in  the  varions  counties  in  Ore- 
gon, as  well  as  representatives  in  the  legislature.  June  3,  1847,  another  county  and 
legislative  election  was  held.  At  the  same  time  George  Abernethy  was  chosen  gover- 
nor for  a  second  term,  the  ojiposing  candidate  being  A.  L.  Lovejoy,  who  had  a  minority 
of  only  sixteen  votes.  The  other  officers  were:  S.  M.  Holderness,  secretary;  John  H. 
Couch,  treasurer;  George  W.  Bell,  auditor  of  public  accounts;  A.  Lawrence  Lovejoy, 
attorney  general;  Theophilus  McGruder,  auditor;  J.  Quinu  Thornton,  judge  of  the 
supreme  court;  H.  M.  Knighton,  marshal;  Alonzo  A.  Skinner,  judge  of  the  circuit  court. 
Another  large  immigration  came  in  1847  and  still  another  in  1848.  On  the  twelfth 
of  June,  1848,  county  and  representative  officers  were  chosen  for  the  last  time  under 
the  provisional  government. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


WHITMAN    MASSACRE   AND    CAYUSE   WAR. 

Sectarian  Histories  Unreliable — The  Battle  of  the  Creeds —Missionaries  and  Settlers  Classed  Together  Rest 
lessness  of  the  Indians — Dr.  White's  Visit  to  the  Nez  Perces  Indians  Incensed  against  Americans— Trouble 
at  Oregon  City  Disbandment  of  Methodist  Mission — Catholic  Method  of  Converting  Savages  Growling 
Feeling  of  Hostility  among  the  Cayuses-  Catholics  Establish  a  Mission  in  Opposition  to  Whitman— Joe 
Levffis  and  his  Perfidy — Epidemic  among  the  Cayuses— The  Poison  Theory — The  Massacre  at  Waiilatpu — 
Spalding's  Charges  and  Responsibility  of  the  Catholics— Rescue  of  the  Prisoners  by  Peter  Skeen  Ogden 
— The  Cayuses  Prepare  for  War — The  Whites  March  against  the  Indians— The  Cayuses  Settle  the  Matter 
among  Themselves— Execution  of  the  Hostages. 

The  literature  of  this  portion  of  Oregon's  history  has  tlowed  chiefly  from  sectarian 
sources.  So  bitter  became  the  feelings  engendered  by  the  religious  contest,  that  all 
accounts  of  the  events  of  this  period  are  so  impregnated  with  personal  feeling  as  to 
render  them  valueless  as  history.  Their  very  tone  is  evidence  of  unreliability ;  and 
this  apjilies  as  much  to  the  Protestant  as  the  Catholic  writings.  They  are  composed 
largely  of  abuse  of  the  opposite  sect,  of  suppression  of  or  only  obscure  reference  to  facts 
detrimental  to  the  side  from  which  the  writings  proceed,  and  of  enlargement  of  every 
trivial  circumstance  that  can  be  shown  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  opposing  party. 
That  such  writings  should  be  dignified  with  the  title  of  History  is  a  reproach  to  litera- 
ture. A  careful  examination  will  satisfy  an  uni^rejudiced  ^^erson  that  this  chapter 
reveals  as  nearly  as  possible  the  true  facts,  and  does  justice  to  both  ])arties  to  the  con- 
troversy. 


OREGON.  151 

The  first  gun  was  tired  and  tlie  nature  of  the  campaign  outlined  by  Dr.  Samuel 
Parker,  the  first  associate  of  Dr.  Whitman;  and  this  in  1836,  before  the  Catholics  had 
entered  the  field.  At  the  mouth  of  Alpowa  ci'eek,  on  Snake  river,  he  came  upon 
a  burial  party  of  Nez  Perces,  Avho  "  had  prepared  a  cross  to  set  up  at  the  grave,"  and 
because  the  symbol  of  the  crucifixion  offended  his  sight  and  he  feared  it  would  make 
"  a  stejjping-stone  to  idolatry,"  he  took  "  the  cross  which  the  Indians  had  prepared  and 
broke  it  in  pieces."  As  the  Catholics  had  not  yet  made  their  appearance  in  Oregon 
and  consequently  "  didn't  know  they  were  hit,"  this  incident  is  of  interest  simply  to 
show  the  spirit  of  religious  intolerance  which  held  possession  of  Dr.  Parker,  and  which 
after  events  proved  to  pervade  his  successors.  When  the  two  Catholic  priests.  Fathers 
Blanchet  and  Demers,  arrived  in  1838,  the  Methodists  had  missions  in  the  Willamette  val- 
lev,  and  at  The  Dalles,  and  the  Congregationalists  had  one  at  Waiilatpu  among  the  Cay- 
uses,  at  Lapwai  among  the  Nez  Perces,  and  at  Tshimakain  among  the  Spokaues.  The 
Protestants  were  well  entrenched,  and  the  Catholics  had  to  enter  new  fields,  of  which 
there  were  many,  or  attack  the  others  direct.     It  will  be  seen  that  they  did  both. 

The  Catholic  plan  of  operations  is  outlined  by  Father  Blanchet  himself,  who  in  after 
years  thus  wrote  of  the  duties  of  the  missionary  priests  :  "  They  were  to  warn  their 
fiocks  against  the  dangers  of  seduction,  to  destroy  the  false  impression  already  received, 
to  enlighten  and  confirm  the  faith  of  the  wavering  and  deceived  consciences,  to  bring 
back  to  the  practice  of  religion  and  virtue  all  who  had  forsaken  them  for  long  years 
or  who,  raised  in  infidelity,  had  never  known  nor  practiced  any  of  them.  '''  *  * 
In  a  word  they  were  to  run  after  the  sheep  when  they  were  in  dangei-.  Hence  their 
passing  so  often  from  one  post  to  another — for  neither  the  white  people  nor  the  Indians 
claimed  their  assistance  in  vain.  And  it  was  enough  for  them  to  hear  that  some  false 
prophet  had  penetrated  into  a  [place,  or  intended  visiting  some  locality,  to  induce  the 
missionaries  to  go  there  immediately,  to  defend  the  faith  and  [)revent  error  from 
propagating  itself."  Here  is  a  direct  statement  from  the  bisho])  at  the  head  of 
the  church,  that  it  was  the  Catholic  plan  to  counteract  the  influence  of  the  Protestants 
where  they  had  already  located  missions,  as  well  as  to  hasten  to  any  new  point  they 
might  select  in  order  to  prevent  the  founding  of  new  ones.  The  first  overt  act  of  this 
kind  was  made  at  Nescjualy,  only  a  few  months  after  they  arrived.  Blanchet  says : 
"  The  first  mission  to  Nesqualy  was  made  by  Father  Demers,  who  celebrated  the  first 
mass  in  the  fort  on  April  22,  [1889],  the  day  after  he  arrived.  His  visit  at  such  a 
time  was  forced  upon  hira  by  the  establishment  of  a  Methodist  mission  for  the  Indians. 

'"'-  '■'  '•'  After  having  given  orders  to  build  a  chapel,  and  said  mass  outside  of  the 
fort,  ho  [parted  with  them,  blessing  the  Lord  for  the  success  of  his  mission  among  the 
whites  and  Lidians,  and  reached  Cowlitz  on  Monday,  the  30th,  with  tht'  conviction 
that  his  mission  at  Nesqualy  had  left  a  very  feeble  chance  for  a  IMethodist  mission 
there." 

Some  ingenious  artist  auKjug  the  priests  made  a  picture  showing  a  large  tree  with 
many  branches.  The  different  Protestant  sects  were  represented  as  going  up  the  tree 
and  out  upon  the  various  bi-anches,  from  which  they  dropped  into  a  fire,  and  this  fire 
was  kept  burning  by  a  priest  who  fed  it  with  the  hei-etical  books  of  the  roasting  vii-- 
tims.  This  picture  tickled  the  Indians  immensely,  and  among  the  Xez  Perces  it  bid 
fair  t(i  capturi'  the  wliole  triho.      As  an   offset  Mr.  Spalding  had  his  wife  paint  a  num- 


152  OREGON. 

ber  of  illustrations  of  prominent  bible  events,  and  this  panorama  soon  crowded  the 
Catholic  cartoon  from  the  field.  Thus  this  contest  went  on  for  several  years.  In  1841 
the  Cascades  Indians  were  won  away  from  The  Dalles  mission  in  spite  of  Mr.  Waller's 
strenuous  efforts  to  hold  them.  This  same  Mr.  Waller  gave  expression  to  his  feelings 
on  doctrinal  points  bv  cutting  down  a  cross  erected  by  the  Catholics  at  the  Clackamas 
village. 

There  was  one  thing  which  gave  the  Catholics  a  decided  advantage  among  the 
natives,  and  that  was  the  use  of  symbols  and  ceremonies,  as  Blanchet  expresses  it : 
"  The  sight  of  the  altar,  vestments,  sacred  vessels  and  great  ceremonies,  were  drawing 
their  attention  a  great  deal  more  than  the  cold,  unavailable  and  long  lay  services  of 
Brother  Waller."  These  were  more  akin  to  their  own  ideas  of  religion  than  the  simple 
services  of  the  Protestants.  The  mystery  was  fascinating  to  them,  and  they  preferred 
to  see  the  priests  "  make  medicine  "  than  to  hear  so  much  "  wa  wa  "  from  the  minis- 
ters. By  thus  working  upon  the  superstitious  nature  of  the  savages  and  making  no 
effort  to  suddenly  change  their  habits  and  time-honored  customs,  the  Catholics  gained 
a  firm  hold  upon  them,  and  were  thus  able,  gradually,  to  bring  about  the  desired 
change.  The  Protestants,  on  the  contrary,  endeavored  to  accomplish  too  much  at 
once,  and  having  no  censers  to  swing  or  imposing  vestments  to  wear,  could  gain  l)ut 
slight  influence  over  the  natives  when  their  opponents  were  about. 

There  was  still  another  factor  which  contributed  to  the  unpopularity  of  the  Protes- 
tant missionaries,  and  one  which  became  stronger  as  time  rolled  on,  and  that  was  their 
connection  with  American  settlers,  and  their  efforts  to  cultivate  the  soil.  The  Indians 
did  not  want  white  people  to  settle  in  the  country.  They  recognized  the  fact  that  both 
races  could  not  live  here,  and  that  if  white  people  came  the  Indians  must  go.  It  was 
this  feeling  which  caused  Ellis  to  forbid  A.  B.  Smith  to  cultivate  a  patch  of  ground  in 
1840.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  encouraged  the  idea  among  the  Indians  that  the 
missions  were  but  stepping  stones  to  American  occupation,  and  this  idea  was  supported 
by  the  conduct  of  those  in  charge  of  the  Methodist  mission  in  the  Willamette,  which 
had  become  the  general  headquarters  for  American  settlers.  The  fur  company  had 
been  here  for  years  and  had  not  taken  their  lands  away  from  them  but  instead,  had 
supplied  them  with  a  good  market  for  such  furs  as  they  might  have;  yet  the  Americans, 
who  were  but  new  comers,  were  already  taking  their  lands,  and  more  kept  arriving 
yearly.  The  outgrowth  of  this  was  a  feeling  of  bitterness  against  the  Americans,  in- 
cluding the  Protestant  missionaries,  in  which  neither  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  men 
nor  the  Catholics  were  included;  and  this  feeling  intensified  year  by  year. 

In  1841,  Dr.  Whitman  was  insulted  and  attacked  at  Waiilatpu  in  consequence  of 
trouble  between  Gray  and  an  Indian.  Immediately  after  he  left  on  his  winter  journey 
and  before  Mrs.  Whitman  went  to  Fort  Walla  Walla,  a  Cayuse  chief  attemj)ted  to  enter 
her  room  at  night,  and  a  few  days  later  the  mission  mill  and  its  contents,  were  destroyed 
by  fire.  About  the  same  time  Mrs.  Spalding,  at  the  Lapwai  mission,  was  grossly  in- 
sulted and  ordered  from  her  own  house ;  and  at  another  time  Mr.  Spalding's  life  was 
threatened.  Dr.  Elijah  White,  the  Indian  agent  who  arrived  but  a  few  weeks  before, 
determined  to  check  this  growing  spirit  of  hostility.  Accordingly,  in  November, 
accompanied  by  Thomas  McKay,  who  had  left  the  company's  service  and  settled  in  the 
valley,  and  six  men,  he  left   the  Willamette  for  the  interior.     At  Fort  Walla  AValla 


OREGON. 


153 


McKiiilay  joined  them  and  the  party  proceeded  to  Lapwai  to  hohl  a  counsel  with  the 
Nez  Perces.  After  a  long  talk,  in  which  McKay  and  McKiulay  took  an  important 
part,  a  treaty  was  entered  into  whereby  whites  and  Indians  were  to  be  equally  punished 
for  offences,  and  the  Nez  Perces  adopted  a  system  of  laws  in  which  the  general  princi- 
ples of  right  and  justice  were  eml^odied  in  a  form  suitable  to  their  customs  and  condi- 
tion. Ellis  was  chosen  head  chief  to  enforce  the  laws.  The  i:)arty  of  Dr.  White  then 
returned  to  hold  a  council  with  the  Cayuses.  But  little  was  accomplished  with  them 
except  to  ajipoint  the  tenth  of  the  ensuing  Ajiril  for  a  general  council  with  the  whole 
tribe.  The  next  tribe  visited  was  the  Wascopum,  at  The  Dalies,  and  these  readily 
adopted  the  same  laws  Dr.  White  had  given  the  Nez  Perces.  The  result  of  these 
councils  was  to  infuse  a  sense  of  security  into  both  the  whites  and  Indians. 

The  next  summer  disaffection  broke  out  afresh,  owing  to  the  evil  counsels  of 
Baptiste  Dorion,  a  half  breed  son  of  Pierre  Dorion  who  had  been  interpreter  for  Hunt's 
party  of  the  Astor  expedition  in  1811.  This  man  was  interpreter  for  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  and  ujion  his  own  responsibility  informed  some  of  the  Indians  about 
Fort  Walla  Walla  that  the  Americans  were  coming  up  in  the  summer  to  take  their  lands. 
This  story  spread  among  the  tribes  along  the  base  of  the  Blue  mountains  and  created 
great  excitement.  The  young  warriors  wanted  to  go  to  the  Willamette  and  exterminate 
the  Americans,  but  were  held  in  check  by  the  older  ones.  Peo-peo-mux-mux,  chief  of 
the  Walla  Wallas,  visited  Vancouver  to  ascertain  the  truth  of  Dorion's  statements,  and 
was  informed  by  Dr.  McLaughlin  that  he  did  not  believe  the  Americans  entertained 
any  such  idea;  but  if  they  did  he  could  rest  assured  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
would  not  aid  them  in  a  war  of  that  kind  against  the  Indians.  The  return  of  the 
Walla  Walla  chief  quieted  the  excitement  to  a  certain  extent,  yet  a  feeling  of  appre- 
hension still  remained,  and  the  missionaries  sent  for  Dr.  White  to  make  another  official 
visit  to  the  tribes.  He  started  in  the  latter  part  of  April,  accompanied  by  Rev.  Gus- 
tavus  Hines,  George  W.  LeBreton,  one  Indian  boy  and  a  Kanaka.  Several  French 
Canadians  were  to  have  accompanied  them,  but  were  advised  by  Dr.  McLaughlin  to 
remain  at  home  and  "let  the  Americans  take  care  of  themselves." 

The  result  of  this  visit  was  to  restore  the  spirit  of  security,  and  to  insure  tranquil- 
ity for  a  time  at  least.  The  Cayuses  adopted  the  Nez  Perce  laws  and  elected  for  head 
chief  Five  Crows,  who  had  embraced  the  Protestant  faith  and  was  favorably  disposed 
towards  the  Americans.  The  action  of  Dr.  McLaughlin  has  been  severely  censured 
and  has  served  as  an  argument  to  prove  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  stirring 
up  the  Indians  to  drive  the  Americans  from  the  country.  That  is  certainly  putting  a 
strained  construction  on  it,  as  will  be  admitted  when  it  is  understood  that  the  Ameri- 
can settlers  had  but  a  few  days  before  unanimously  signed  a  memorial  to  congress,  in 
which  Dr.  McLaughlin  was  severely  censured.  Father  Demers  arrived  from  the 
interior  at  this  time  and  informed  him  that  :  "  The  Indians  are  only  incensed  against 
the  Boston  people ;  that  they  have  nothing  against  the  French  and  King  George  peo- 
ple ;  they  are  not  mad  at  them,  but  are  determined  that  the  Boston  jieople  shall  not 
have  their  lands  and  take  away  their  liberties."  Is  it  at  all  unnatural  that,  learning 
that  his  people  were  in  no  danger  and  smarting  under  the  unjust  charges  of  the  Amer- 
icans, he  should  have  said,  "  Let  the  Americans  take  care  of  themselves?" 


154  OREGON. 

There  was  trouble  iu  the  Willamette  valley  in  1844  which  served  to  still  more 
embitter  the  Indians  against  the  Americans.  There  was  a  sub-chief  of  the  Molallas 
named  Cockstock,  a  man  of  independent  nature  and  belligerent  disposition.  He  had  a 
few  followers  who  jjartook  somewhat  of  his  spirit,  and  they  were  generally  the  prime 
movers  in  such  hostile  acts  as  the  natives  of  the  Willamette  indulged  in.  He  was 
rebellious  of  restraint,  and  not  friendly  to  the  encroachment  of  the  white  settlers.  A 
relative  of  his  having  mistreated  Mr.  Perkins  at  The  Dalles  mission,  was  sentenced  by 
the  Wasco  tribe  to  be  puni.shed  according  to  Dr.  White's  laws.  The  sub-chief  was 
enraged  at  the  whipping  his  kinsman  had  received,  and  set  out  to  revenge  the 
insult  upon  the  Indian  agent.  Reaching  the  agent's  Willamette  home  during  his  ab- 
sence, he  proceeded  to  break  every  window  pane  in  the  house.  He  was  pursued,  but 
not  caught,  and  became  an  object  of  terror  to  the  Doctor.  All  depredations  committed 
in  the  country  were  charged  to  this  chief,  and  it  finally  resulted  in  the  offer  by  Dr. 
White  of  one  hundred  dollars  reward  for  the  arrest  of  the  formidable  Indian.  Learn- 
ing that  he  was  being  accused  of  acts  committed  by  others,  the  chief  visited  Oregon 
City  March  4,  accompanied  by  four  of  his  band,  with  the  avowed  purpose  of  having 
a  talk  with  the  whites  for  the  purpose  of  exculpating  himself  He  entered  the  town, 
staid  for  about  an  hour,  and  then  crossed  the  river  to  visit  an  Indian  village  to  procure 
an  Indian  interpreter.  He  then  recrossed  the  Willamette,  when  several  men  under- 
took to  arrest  him  and  a  desperate  fight  ensued.  Cockstock  was  killed,  and  his  fol- 
lowers, after  fighting  valiantly  until  the  odds  became  too  great,  made  good  their  escape. 
On  the  other  side  George  W.  LeBreton  was  killed  by  Cockstock,  and  Mr.  Eogers,  who 
was  working  quietly  near  by,  was  wounded  in  the  arm  by  a  poisoned  arrow,  which 
caused  his  death.  It  has  been  asserted  that  the  Molalla  chief  attacked  the  town,  Init 
it  requires  too  much  credulit}^  to  believe  that  five  Indians  would  in  broad  daylight 
attack  a  town  containing  ten  times  their  number.  The  whole  affair  is  chargeable  to 
the  rash  conduct  of  a  few  men  who  were  eager  to  gain  the  paltry  reward  offered  by 
Dr.  White,  one  of  whom  paid  for  his  cupidity  with  his  life.  Fearing  that  trouble 
might  follow,  the  executive  committee  of  the  j^rovisioual  government  issued  a  procla- 
mation for  the  organization  of  a  military  company.  A  company  was  organized  on  the 
tenth  of  March  by  citizens  who  assembled  at  Champoeg.  Nineteen  names  were  en- 
rolled, T.  D.  Keizer  being  elected  captain  and  J.  L.  Morrison  and  Mr.  Carson  lieu- 
tenants.    Their  services  were  not  required. 

In  May,  1844,  Rev.  George  Gary  arrived  by  sea  to  sn23ersede  Jason  Lee  in  charge 
of  the  Methodist  missions,  the  latter  being  already  on  his  way  East.  The  mission 
property  was  immediately  sold  and  the  missionary  work,  which  had  amounted  to  little 
so  far  as  accomplishments  were  concerned  for  several  years,  was  discontinued,  excejit 
at  The  Dalles.  While  the  ]\Iethodists  were  thus  withdrawing  from  the  field,  the  Cath- 
olics were  largely  increasing  their  force.  Among  other  arrivals  for  that  purpose  were 
six  sisters  of  the  order  of  Notre  Dame,  who  came  to  found  a  convent  in  the  Willam- 
ette. As  Father  Blauchet  expresses  it :  "  The  schemes  of  the  Protestant  ministers 
had  been  fought  and  nearly  annihilated,  especially  Nesqualy,  Vancouver,  Cascades, 
Clackamas,  and  Willamette  falls,  so  that  a  visitor  came  in  1844  and  disbanded  the 
whole  Methodist  mission,  and  sold  its  jjrojjerty."  The  Methodists  being  disposed  of 
the  next  thing  in  order  was  to  get  rid  of  the  Cono;reo;ationalists,  whose  missions  were 


OREGON.  15.-. 

at  least  holding  their  own,  and  one  of  them,  that  of  Mr.  Hpalding,  at  Lapwai,  making 
considerable  ^jrogress  iii  civilizing  the  Xez  Perccs. 

The  most  successful  missionaries  among  the  aborigines  of  America  have  been  the 
Catholics.  The  extent  of  their  operations  and  success  of  their  efforts  in  this  field,  are 
but  partially  known  to  either  the  Protestant  or  Catholic  world  ;  and  the  secret  of  their 
.success  lies  in  the  zeal  and  judgment  with  which  their  religion  is  impressed  upon  the 
uncultivated  understanding  by  ceremonies  and  .symbols.  All  Indians  believe  in  im- 
mortality, in  the  power  and  influence  of  both  good  and  evil  spirits  upon  the  family  of 
nian.  The  strongest  hold  that  can  be  obtained  upon  that  race  is  to  bind  them  with 
cords  of  belief  and  fear  to  an  unseen  power,  let  that  power  be  what  it  may.  Their 
superstitious  natures  lead  them  to  attribute  their  good  or  ill  fortune  largely  to  super- 
natural influences,  and  to  enter  the  door  to  their  understanding  of  spiritual  matters  it 
is  necessary  to  keep  that  door  ajar  for  such  purpose.  Unle.ss  the  white  man's  God  is 
a  greater  medicine  than  the  Indian's,  they  want  none  of  him.  Unle.ss  he  can  save 
them  more  effectually  now  and  hereafter  than  the  one  they  have  always  worshiped, 
they  would  prefer  the  old  God  to  the  new  one.  They  believe  that  the  Great  Spirit 
helps  them  to  slay  their  enemies,  directs  the  fish  to  their  snares  and  the  wild  game  to 
their  hunting  grounds.  If  he  fails  so  to  do,  it  is  because  he  is  angry  with  them  and 
must  be  propitiated.  A  God  that  leaves  an  Indian  hungry  and  a  scalp  on  the  head  of 
his  offending  enemy,  would  be  void  of  interest  or  attraction.  The  Catholic  missionary 
teaches  the  credulous  Indian  that  the  white  man's  God  not  only  takes  heed  of  the  hair 
that  falls  from  the  head  of  his  chosen,  but  provides  for  him ;  and,  being  the  God  not 
only  of  peace,  but  of  battle,  makes  his  arms  invincible  in  waging  just  war  against  his 
enemies.  No  stronger  inducement  can  be  given  to  a  savage  for  adopting  any  religious 
faith  tiian  that  of  being  able  by  that  means  to  protect  himself  against  his  foes,  to  fill 
his  stomach,  and  to  go  after  death  to  the  happy  hunting  grounds,  where  there  are  no 
enemies  and  no  fasting.  The  Catholic  missionary  not  only  under.stands  all  this  and 
teaches  as  stated,  but  he  deals  out  to  them  religion  in  homeojaathic  doses.  Through 
the  sense  of  sight,  the  priest  makes  an  impression  upon  the  brain  by  ceremonies  and 
the  attractive  symbols  of  his  faith.  He  follows  more  closely  than  the  Protestant  in 
the  line  of  what  the  Indian  expects  to  see  as  typical  of  a  mysterious  something  unseen. 
It  being  nearer  to  his  conception  and  what  he  has  been  accustomed  to,  lie  more  readily 
believes  and  adojjts  it.  Using  these  levers,  the  missionary  moves  the  Indian  by  tribes 
into  the  Catholic  church.  After  gaining  an  ascendancy  the  priest  makes  a  judicious 
use  of  his  influence  to  eradicate  the  evil  practices  of  his  neophytes,  witliout  destroying 
his  chance  for  accomplishing  any  good  by  asking  too  great  a  change  suddenly.  By 
such  systematic  methods  as  this,  the  Catholic  power  had  been  so  increased  by  1847  that 
there  were  eight  missions  and  twenty-six  priests,  sixteen  churches  and  chapels,  three 
institutions  of  learning,  .5,0.')!)  Indian  converts  and  1,500  Catholic  settlers,  chiefly 
Canadians. 

On  tlie  conti'ary  the  Protestant  missions  were  making  comparatively  little  head- 
way. At  each  station  thei'e  wereafeAV  who  seemed  to  be  in  full  accord  with  them,  but 
the  great  majority  of  the  tribe  were  but  slightly  affected  by  their  preaching.  At 
Waiilatpu  things  had  been  going  wrong  for  some  time.  From  the  time  Whitman  first 
went  among  them  there  was  a  small  portion    of  the  Cayuses  who  were  opposed  to  him 


156  OREGON. 

and  liis  work.  At  the  heatl  of  this  faction  was  Tam-su-ky,  an  influential  chief  who 
lived  on  Walla  Walla  river  a  few  miles  from  the  mission.  Five  Crows,  the  head  chief, 
resided  on  the  Umatilla  forty  miles  away.  It  was  this  element  which  made  the  trouble 
in  1842  and  burned  the  Doctor's  mill.  When  Whitman  returned  with  the  great  train 
of  emigrants  in  1843,  these  Indians  pointed  to  it  as  an  evidence  that  his  missionary 
pretentions  were  but  a  cloak  for  a  design  upon  their  liberties,  that  he  was  bringing 
Americans  here  who  would  take  away  their  lands.  In  them  Baptiste  Dorion  found 
willing  associates  in  spreading  his  stories  about  the  sinister  designs  of  the  Americans. 
This  feeling  of  hostility  spread  from  year  to  year,  especially  among  the  Cayuses, 
through  whose  country  the  immigrants  all  passed,  and  who  were  thus  better  able  than 
the  other  tribes  to  see  what  great  numbers  were  coming  and  what  a  hearty  welcome  they 
all  received  from  Dr.  Whitman  and  his  associates.  As  far  back  as  1845,  a  Delawai-e 
Indian,  called  Tom  Hill,  had  been  living  w^ith  the  Nez  Perce  tribe.  He  had  told  them 
how  American  missionaries  had  visited  his  people,  first  to  teach  religion,  and  then  the 
Americans  had  taken  their  lands  ;  and  he  warned  them  to  drive  Mr.  Spalding  away, 
unless  they  would  invite  a  similar  misfortune.  This  Indian  visited  AVhitman's  mission 
and  repeated  to  the  Cayuses  his  story  of  the  ruin  to  his  tribe  that  had  followed  the 
advent  of  American  missionaries  to  live  among  them.  In  the  latter  ^^art  of  1847,  an- 
other Indian  came  among  the  Cayuses,  who  had  been  taken  from  west  of  the  Cascades 
to  the  States,  when  a  boy,  where  he  grew  to  manhood  among  the  Americans.  His 
name  was  Joe  I^ewis,  and  he  bent  all  the  powers  of  his  subtle  nature  to  the  task  of 
creating  hatred  of  the  missionaries  and  Americans  among  the  Indians  at  Waiilatpu. 
He  reaffirmed  the  statements  of  Dorion  and  Tom  Hill,  and  said  it  was  the  American 
plan  of  operations  to  first  send  missionaries,  then  a  few  settlers  every  year  until  they 
had  taken  all  the  land  and  made  the  Indians  slaves.  It  was  then  that  Tam-su-ky  and 
his  followers  were  triumphant  and  could  boast  of  their  superior  wisdom  in  opposing 
the  mission  from  the  first.  The  tribe  was  divided  into  three  classes,  a  few  faithful  fol- 
lowers of  the  Doctor  and  his  God,  a  few  bitterly  opposed  to  the  mission,  and  the  great 
majority  of  the  tribe  indifferent  but  gradually  acquiring  a  feeling  of  hostility.  There 
were  many,  also,  who  desired  to  exchange  to  the  Catholic  religion,  of  which  they  heard 
favorable  reports  from  other  tribes.  The  long  black  gowns  and  imposing  ceremonies 
had  captured  them.  Whitman  perceived  the  gathering  storm  but  thought  it  could  be 
averted.  Thomas  McKay  warned  him  that  it  was  unsafe  to  live  longer  with  the  Cay- 
uses, and  the  Doctor  offered  to  sell  the  proj^erty  to  him,  an  offer  wdiich  McKay  agreed 
to  accept  if  he  could  dispose  of  his  claim  on  the  Willamette.  With  this  in  view 
Whitman  went  to  The  Dalles  in  the  fall  of  1847,  and  purchased  the  disused  Methodist 
mission  there,  and  leaving  his  nephew,  P.  B.  Whitman,  in  charge  he  returned  to 
Waiilatpu  to  sijend  the  winter,  preparatory  to  moving  away  in  the  sjjring. 

This  was  the  condition  of  affairs  at  Waiilatpu  when  the  Catholics  decided  to  take 
advantage  of  the  desire  of  a  number  of  the  Cayuses  to  embrace  their  faith  and  estab- 
lish a  mission  among  them.  On  the  fifth  of  September,  1847,  Father  A.  M.  A.  Blanchet 
reached  Walla  Walla  w^ith  three  associate  priests,  and  the  fort  became  their  headquarters 
for  a.  number  of  weeks  while  they  were  seeking  a  suitable  place  for  a  permanent 
location.  Whitman  found  them  there  upon  his  return  from  The  Dalles,  and  quite  a 
stormy  interview  ensued,  though  it  nuist  be  confessed   that  the  storming  was  chiefly 


OREGON.  157 

iloue  by  the  Doetur;  aiul  no  woiukT.  He  had  just  made  aiTaiigements  to  abandon  all 
he  had  accomplished  by  eleven  years  of  self-denial  and  labor,  and  here  he  found  those 
to  whom  he  attributed  his  misfortunes  ready  to  take  his  place  even  before  he  had  left 
it.  He  did  not  hesitate  to  tell  them  his  opinion  of  their  conduct,  and  the  complaisant 
manner  in  which  they  received  his  complaint  aggravated  him  the  more. 

Immigrants  from  the  States  in  the  fall  of  that  year  brought  with  them  the  dysen- 
tery and  measles,  which  soon  became  epidemic  among  the  Cayuses.  Many  Indians 
died  in  spite  of  the  remedies  administered  by  the  Doctor.  Joe  Lewis  made  good  use 
of  his  opportunity.  He  told  the  Indians  that  Whitman  intended  to  kill  them  all;  that 
for  this  purpose  he  had  sent  home  for  poison  two  years  before,  but  they  had  not  for- 
warded a  good  kind  ;  that  this  year  the  immigrants  had  brought  him  some  good  poison 
and  he  was  now  using  it  to  kill  off  the  Cayuses;  that  when  they  were  all  dead  the 
Americans  w^ould  come  and  take  their  lands.  He  even  went  so  far  as  to  declare  that  he 
overheard  a  conversation  between  Mr.  Spalding  and  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Whitman,  in  which  the 
former  complained  because  the  Doctor  was  not  killing  them  fast  enough,  and  then  the 
trio  began  to  count  up  the  wealth  they  would  acquire  when  the  Indians  were  all  dis- 
posed of.  This  received  much  credence  among  the  tribe,  especially  since  they  knew  of 
a  somewhat  similar  case  a  few  years  before,  when  an  American  purposely  spread  small- 
pox among  the  Blackfeet  and  killed  hundreds  of  that  tribe.  Without  knowing  the 
perfidious  conduct  of  Joe  Lewis,  who  was  employed  about  the  mission,  Dr.  Whitman 
perceived  the  signs  of  danger,  and  asked  Thomas  McKay  to  spend  the  winter  with 
him,  as  that  gentleman's  influence  with  the  natives  was  great;  but  Mr.  McKay  was  un- 
able to  comply. 

On  the  twenty-seventh  of  November,  two  days  before  the  massacre,  the  Catholics 
established  their  mission  on  the  Umatilla,  forty  miles  from  Waiilatpu  and  near  the 
home  of  Five  Crows,  the  head  chief.  Joe  Lewis  had  assured  the  Cayuses  that  the 
priest  had  told  him  Dr.  Whitman  was  giving  them  poison,  which  does  not  seem  to  be 
sustained  by  reason  or  probability.  In  1882  the  writer  had  a  long  interview  with 
three  of  these  Indians,  ones  who  were  still  adherents  of  the  faith  taught  them  by  Whit- 
man, and  since  they  have  suffered  much  persecution  at  the  hands  of  the  Catholics  in 
charge  of  the  mission,  were  not  inclined  to  tell  untruths  in  their  belief  They  unani- 
mously agreed  that  they  never  heard  the  priest  say  anything  about  Dr.  Whitman 
giving  them  poison ;  that  Joe  Lewis  told  them  that,  and  said  he  learned  it  from  the 
priest ;  that  it  was  generally  believed  the  priest  had  said  so,  but  afterwards  in  investi- 
gating the  matter  among  themselves  they  could  find  no  one  to  whom  the  priest  said^ 
anything  of  the  kind,  and  that  it  all  came  through  Joe  Lewis.  One  thing  the  Roman 
missionary  did  say,  and  this  helped  to  confirm  the  Indians  in  their  belief  that  he  had 
also  said  the  other,  and  that  was  that  Dr.  Whitman  was  a  bad  man,  and  if  they  be- 
lieved what  he  told  them  they  would  all  go  to  hell,  for  he  was  telling  them  lies.  Even 
such  a  statement  as  that,  to  unreasoning  and  passionate  savages,  was  almost  enough,  in 
case  they  believed  it  true,  to  have  caused  the  bloody  scene  which  followed,  even  had 
not  the  poison  theory  been  so  industriously  circulated  by  the  scheming  Lewis. 

The  followers  of  Tam-su-ky  determined  to  prove  the  poison  theory.  The  wife  of 
tiiat  chief  was  sick,  and  they  agreed  among  themselves  that  they  would  get  some  med- 


icine  from  the  Doctor  aud  give  it  to  her  ;  if  she   recovered,  good,  if  not,  then  they 
would  kill  the  missionaries.     They  did  so,  aud  the  woman  died. 

Waiilatpu  was  centrally  located,  since  the  Cayuses  occui^ied  the  country  from 
Umatilla  river  to  the  Tukannon.  Every  Sunday  large  numbers  gathered  at  the  mission, 
some  of  them  to  actually  25artici2:)ate  in  the  services,  and  others  because  of  the  crowd 
they  knew  would  be  assembled.  On  week  days,  however,  it  was  seldom  that  a  dozen 
could  be  found  there  at  a  time.  For  this  reason  Tam-su-ky  and  his  followers  chose  a 
week  day  for  their  deed,  a  time  when  they  thought  none  of  the  Whitman  Indians 
would  be  present  to  interfere.  They  were  careful  to  conceal  their  design  from  the 
Christian  Indians  and  from  the  head  chief,  Five  Crows,  for  fear  he  would  prevent  its 
execution.  About  fifty  Indians  assembled  at  the  mission  on  the  twenty-ninth  of  Novem- 
ber, 1847,  being  chiefly  the  relatives  and  friends  of  Tam-su-ky.  Of  these  only  five 
participated  in  the  bloody  work,  the  others  simply  looking  on  and  preventing  the  in- 
terference of  any  outsiders  and  especially  of  the  one  or  two  Whitman  Indians  who 
happened  to  be  present.  The  horrible  details  of  the  massacre  it  is  needless  to  relate. 
Mr.  Spalding  has  given  them  with  a  minuteness  that  is  strongly  suggestive  of  an  origin 
in  the  imagination,  yet  his  narrative  is  probably  in  the  main  as  correct  as  could  possi- 
bly be  gathered  from  the  incoherent  stories  of  frightened  women  and  children.  It  is 
only  when  he  carries  the  melodramatic  too  far,  and  when  he  is  endeavoring  to  make  it 
appear  that  the  massacre  was  perpetrated  at  the  instigation  of  Father  Brouillet  aud 
sauctioued  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  that  his  statements  become  unreliable. 
His  picture  is  much  overdrawn,  though  Heaven  knows  that  in  some  particulars,  and 
especially  in  the  after  treatment  of  the  female  prisoners,  even  those  of  tender  age,  the 
pen  utterly  fails  to  depict  the  horrors  of  the  scene.  He  uses  such  exj^ressions  as  "  mul- 
titudes of  Indians,"  "  cutting  down  their  victims  everywhere,"  "  the  roar  of  guns,"  the 
"  crash  of  loar  clubs  and  tomahawks,"  "  shock  like  terrific  peals  of  thunder,"  in  refer- 
ring to  the  discharge  of  a  few  guns,  "  crash  of  the  clubs  and  the  knives  ;"  and  yet 
when  the  whole  is  summed  up  but  thirteen  were  killed  in  all,  nine  that  day,  two  the 
next  and  two  eight  days  later.  He  is  equally  reckless  in  his  language  when  making 
charges  against  Father  Brouillet,  whom  he  accuses  of  coming  up  from  the  Umatilla 
the  day  after  the  massacre  and  "  baptizing  the  murderers."  The  facts  are  that  he 
came  upon  an  invitation  given  him  by  the  missionary  several  days  before,  onh'^  learn- 
ing of  the  horrible  tragedy  upon  his  arrival ;  and  the  "  murderers  "  whom  he  baptized 
were  three  sick  children,  two  of  whom  died  immediately  after  the  ceremony.  He  also 
accuses  him  of  pretending  to  find  the  poison  and  burying  it  so  that  it  could  have  no 
more  influence.  The  Whitman  Indians  stated  unanimously  that  Joe  Lewis  did  this 
and  not  the  priest.  The  only  interference  the  priest  dared  to  make  at  all  was  when  he 
successfully  interposed  to  save  Spalding's  life. 

The  bloody  excesses  into  which  religious  zealots  were  led  in  times  past  suggest  the 
possibility  of  the  truth  of  these  charges,  yet  they  are  entirely  unsupported  by  evidence, 
and  common  charity  should  demand  convincing  proof  to  sustain  such  an  accusation. 
Though  the  Catholics  are  cleared  of  the  charge  of  directly  instigating  the  massacre  by 
telling  the  Indians  that  Dr.  Whitman  was  poisoning  them  so  that  he  might  secure 
their  lands  for  his  friends,  yet  they  cannot  escape  the  moral  responsibility  of  the  deed . 
In  the  first  jilace  they  went  among  the  Cayuses  for  the  purpose  of  driving  Whitman 


OREGON.  15!) 

away  and  olitaining  control  of  the  tribe.  To  aeeonijilish  this  they  told  tlie  Indians 
that  Dr.  AVhitman  was  a  bad  man,  was  telling  them  lies,  and  if  they  believed  him  they 
would  all  go  to  hell.  Father  Brouillet  ought  by  that  time  to  have  become  sufficiently 
acquainted  with  the  Indian  character  to  know  that  such  assertions,  if  they  were  credited, 
were  calculated  to  bring  on  just  such  a  tragedy  as  was  enacted.  Whether  he  knew 
this  and  acted  with  that  end  in  view,  or  whether  he  expected  to  simply  win  the  relig- 
ious trust  of  the  Cayuses  away  from  Whitman,  will  remain  a  secret  forever.  The  mas- 
sacre was  the  result  of  four  separate  causes — the  dislike  of  Americans,  the  ravages  of 
the  epidemic,  the  poison  intrigue  of  Joe  Lewis,  and  the  priest's  denunciations  of  Dr. 
Whitmau — and  Father  Brouillet  can  never  shake  off  the  moral  responsibility  for 
one  of  the  most  potent  of  these  causes.  The  victims  of  this  conflict  of  creeds  were:  Dr. 
Marcus  Whitman,  Mrs.  Narcissa  Whitman,  John  Sager,  Francis  Sager,  Crockett  Bewley, 
Mr.  Rogers,  Mr.  Kimball,  Mr.  Sales,  Mr.  Marsh,  Mr.  Sanders,  James  Young,  Jr.,  Mr. 
Hoifman,  and  Isaac  Gillen. 

Immediately  after  the  massacre  Joe  Lewis  told  the  Cayuses  that  now  they  must 
fight,  for  the  Americans  would  surely  come  to  punish  them.  He  advised  them  to  send 
him  and  two  others  to  Salt  Lake  with  a  band  of  horses,  to  purchase  ammunition  from  the 
Mormons.  He  started  with  a  select  band  of  animals  and  two  young  braves,  and  a  few 
days  later  one  of  the  braves  returned  with  the  intelligence  that  Joe  Lewis  had  killed 
the  other  one  and  decamped  with  the  horses;  and  this  was  the  last  the  Cayuses  saw  of 
that  scheming  villain. 

Intelligence  of  the  massacre  reached  Fort  Vancouver  by  special  messenger  from 
William  McBean,  in  charge  of  Fort  Walla  Walla.  The  messenger  did  not  Avarn  the 
people  at  The  Dalles  of  their  danger,  but  went  directly  to  the  fort  and  delivered  his 
message  to  James  Douglas,  then  the  chief  factor  at  A^'ancouver.  When  questioned 
about  his  conduct  he  said  he  was  obeying  instructions  received  from  McBean.  This 
and  the  conduct  of  McBean  at  Fort  Walla  Walla  in  displaying  an  unwillingness  to 
receive  and  2)rotect  fugitives  from  Waiilatpu,  have  been  cited  as  conclusive  evidence 
that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  connived  at  the  massacre;  but  nothing  in  the  conduct 
of  other  officers  of  the  company  sitstains  such  an  opinion,  while  much  is  to  the  contrary, 
and  it  simply  shows  that  McBean  was  a  narrow-minded  man  who,  knowing  the  general 
feeling  of  the  Indians  in  that  region  against  the  Americans,  was  afraid  he  would  com- 
promise the  company  by  defending  them.  He  had  not  soul  enough  to  rise  to  the 
emergency. 

Mr.  Douglas  sent  a  message  to  Governor  Abernethy,  advising  him  of  what  had 
taken  place;  and  without  waiting  to  see  what  steps  the  Americans  would  take,  Peter 
Skeen  Ogden,  an  old  and  influential  factor  of  the  company,  departed  from  Vancouver 
with  an  armed  force  for  the  scene  of  the  tragedy,  advising  the  people  at  The  Dalles  of 
their  danger  as  he  passed.  He  reached  Walla  Walla  on  the  nineteenth  of  December. 
The  next  day  the  Cayuses  held  a  council  and  decided  that  if  the  Americans  would  call 
everything  scpiare  and  would  make  a  treaty  of  peace,  they  would  deliver  u[)  the  pris- 
oners. Three  days  later  the  chiefs  came  to  Walla  Walla  and  held  a  council  with  ^Iv: 
Ogden,  who  offered  to  ransom  the  captives  and  assured  the  Indians  that  they  wouhl 
regret  it  if  they  provoked  the  Americans  to  war,  and  that  the  company  was  much  dis- 
pleased with  tlieii-  conduct.     The  conference   resulted   in    the  surrender  of  foi'ty-seven 


160  OREGON. 

jH-isouers  upon  thf  payment  of  a  small  quantity  of  tobacco,  clothing,  guns  and  am- 
munition. On  the  first  of  January  fifty  Nez  Perces  arrived  with  Mr.  Spalding  and 
ten  others  from  Lapwai,  receiving  a  similar  payment  from  Mr.  Ogden,  and  on  the 
second  the  whole  party  started  down  the  Columbia.  Two  hours  later  fifty  Caynse 
warriors  dashed  u})  to  the  fort  to  demand  the  surrender  of  Mr.  Spalding,  as  they  had 
just  learned  that  a  company  of  Americans  had  arrived  at  The  Dalles  to  make  war 
upon  them.  On  the  tenth  of  January  they  all  reached  Oregon  City,  and  great  was 
the  joy  of  the  people.  For  his  humane  conduct  and  prompt  action  Peter  Skeen  Ogden 
should  always  occupy  a  warm  j)lace  in  the  hearts  of  Americans ;  yet  there  are  those 
who  ungratefully  accuse  him  of  attempting  to  arm  the  Cayuses  against  the  Americans, 
simply  because  a  few  guns  and  a  little  ammunition  formed  a  portion  of  the  ransom 
paid  to  deliver  these  helpless  women  from  a  captivity  that  was  worse  than  death. 

While  Mr.  Ogden  was  absent  on  his  errand  of  mercy,  the  American  settlers  were 
not  idle.  On  the  eighth  of  December  Governor  Abernethy  informed  the  legislature  of 
what  had  been  done  at  Waiilatpu,  and  by  message  called  for  volunteers.  That  night 
at  a  public  meeting  a  company  was  organized  to  proceed  at  once  to  The  Dalles,  as  an 
outpost  to  protect  the  missionaries  there,  and  to  dispute  a  passage  of  the  Cascade  moun- 
tains with  hostile  Indians  if  any  attempted  carrying  war  into  the  Willamette  settle- 
ments. The  company  was  commanded  by  Henry  A.  G.  Lee,  captain,  and  Joseph 
Magoue  and  John  E.  Ross,  lieutenants.  The  legislature  pledged  the  credit  of  the 
provisional  government  to  pay  the  expenses  of  procuring  an  outfit  for  this  company, 
and  appointed  a  committee  to  visit  Vancouver  and  negotiate  for  the  same  from  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  they  did,  but  were  obliged  to  become  personally  respon- 
sible for  the  amount.  December  10,  the  Oregon  Rifles  reached  Vancouver,  received 
their  supplies,  and  pushed  on  for  The  Dalles,  where  they  arrived  on  the  twenty-first  of 
the  month.  In  the  meantime  the  legislature  entered  with  energy  upon  a  series  of 
resolutions  and  enactments  with  a  view  to  military  organization  of  magnitude  sufficient 
to  chastise  the  Indians,  and  the  citizens  by  subscriptions  and  enlistments  seconded 
cordially  the  efforts  of  their  provisional  government.  Many  were  for  pushing  forward 
into  the  enemy's  country  at  once  with  a  formidable  force,  but  wiser  counsels  prevailed, 
and  nothing  was  done  likely  to  prevent  the  Indians  from  surrendering  their  white 
captives  to  Mr.  Ogden. 

On  the  ninth  of  December  the  legislature  autliorized  the  equipping  of  a  regiment 
of  500  men,  and  in  accordance  with  the  act  sixteen  companies  were  raised.  Cornelius 
Gilliam  was  chosen  colonel,  James  Waters,  lieutenant-colonel,  and  H.  A.  G.  Lee,  major. 

February  23,  1848,  Colonel  Gilliam  reached  The  Dalles  with  fifty  men.  The 
main  body  of  his  regiment  arriving  at  that  place,  he  moved  to  the  Des  Chutes  river 
on  the  twenty-seventh  with  130  men,  crossed  to  the  east  bank,  and  sent  Major  Lee  up 
the  stream  about  twenty  miles  on  a  recounoisance,  where  he  found  the  enemy,  engaged 
them,  killed  one,  lost  some  of  his  horses  and  returned  to  report  progress.  On  the 
twenty-ninth  Colonel  Gilliam  moved  up  the  Des  Chutes  to  Meek's  crossing  at  the 
mouth  of  the  caflon  in  which  Major  Lee  had  met  the  Indians.  The  next  morning  on 
entering  the  canon  a  skirmish  followed,  in  which  were  captured  from  the  hostiles,  40 
horses,  4  head  of  cattle  and  |300  worth  of  personal  property,  all  of  which  was  sold  by 
the  quartermaster  fi)r  |1,400.     The  loss  of  the  Indians  in  killed  and  wounded  was  not 


OREGON.  1(U 

known.  There  was  one  white  man  wounded.  The  result  was  a  treaty  of  peace  with 
the  Des  Chutes  Indians.  The  commaud  pushed  immediately  forward  to  the  Walla 
Walla  country  and  reached  the  mission  prior  to  March  4.  On  the  way  to  that  place 
a  battle  occurred  at  Sand  Hollows,  on  the  emigrant  road  eight  miles  east  of  the  Well 
Springs.  It  commenced  on  the  plain  where  washes  in  the  sand  make  natural  hiding 
places  for  a  foe,  and  lasted  until  towards  night.  The  volunteer  force  was  arranged 
with  the  train  in  the  road  protected  by  Captain  Hall's  com^sany.  The  companies  of 
Captains  Thompson  and  Maxon,  forming  the  left  flank,  were  on  the  north  side  of  the 
road,  and  those  of  Captains  English  and  McKay,  as  the  right  flank,  were  on  the  south 
or  right  of  the  commaud.  Upon  McKay's  company  at  the  extreme  right  the  first 
demonstration  was  made.  Five  Crows,  the  head  chief  of  the  Cayuses,  made  some  pre- 
tensions to  the  possession  of  wizard  powers,  and  declared  to  his  people  that  no  ball  from 
a  white  man's  gun  could  kill  him.  Another  chief  of  that  tribe  named  War  Eagle  or 
Swallow  Ball,  made  similar  professions  and  stated  that  he  could  swallow  all  the  bullets 
from  the  guns  of  the  invading  army  if  they  were  fired  at  him.  The  two  chiefs  prom- 
ised their  people  that  Gilliam's  command  should  never  reach  the  Umatilla  river,  and 
to  demonstrate  their  invulnerability  and  jjower  as  medicine  chiefs,  they  dashed  out 
from  concealment,  rode  down  close  to  the  volunteers  and  shot  a  little  dog  that  came  out 
to  bark  at  them.  Captain  McKay,  although  the  order  was  not  to  fire,  could  hold  back 
no  longer,  and  bringing  his  rifle  to  bear  took  deliberate  aim  and  shot  War  Eagle 
through  the  head,  killing  him  instantly.  Lieutenant  Charles  McKay  brought  his  shot 
gun  down  to  the  hollow  of  his  arm,  and  firing  without  sighting  it,  so  severely  wounded 
Five  Crows  that  he  gave  up  the  command  of  his  warriors.  This  was  a  serious,  chilling 
opening  for  the  Indians,  two  chiefs  gone  at  the  first  onset  and  their  medicine  proved 
worthless  ;  but  they  continued  the  battle  in  a  skirmishing  way,  making  dashing  attacks 
and  masterly  retreats  until  late  in  the  afternoon.  At  one  time  during  the  engagement. 
Captain  Maxon's  company  followed  the  enemy  so  far  that  it  was  surrounded,  and  a 
sharp  encounter  followed,  in  which  a  number  of  volunteers  were  disabled.  In  fact, 
eight  of  the  eleven  soldiers  wounded  that  day  were  of  Maxon's  company.  Two  Indians 
were  known  to  have  been  killed,  but  the  enemy's  loss  could  not  be  known  as  tliey  re- 
moved all  of  their  wounded  and  dead,  except  two. 

That  night  the  regiment  camped  on  the  battlefield  without  water,  and  the  Indians 
built  large  and  numerous  fires  along  the  bluffs  or  high  lands  some  two  miles  in  advance. 
The  next  day  Colonel  Gilliam  moved  on,  and  without  incident  worthy  of  note,  reached 
Whitman's  mission,  the  third  day  after  the  battle.  The  main  body  of  Indians  fell 
l)ack  towards  Snake  river,  and  a  fruitless  attempt  followed  to  induce  them  to  give  up 
the  parties  who  had  committed  the  murders  at  Waiilatpu.  Colonel  Gilliam  at  last  de- 
termined upon  making  a  raid  into  the  Snake  river  country,  and  in  carrying  out  this 
programme,  surprised  a  camp  of  Cayuses  near  that  stream,  among  whom  were  some 
of  the  murderers.  The  captured  camp  professed  friendsliip,  however,  and  pointed  out 
the  horses  of  Indians  on  the  hills,  which  tliey,  said  belonged  to  the  parties  whom  the 
Colonel  was  anxious  to  kill  or  capture,  stating  that  their  owners  were  on  the  north  side 
of  Snake  river  and  beyond  reach.  So  well  was  their  part  acted  that  the  officers  be- 
lieved their  statements,  proceeded  to  drive  off"  the  stock  indicated,  and  started  on  their 
return.     Tlioy  soon  found  that  a  2;rievons  crroi-  liad  l>cen   committed  in   releasing  the 


village,  whose  male  population  were  soon  mounted  upon  war  horses,  and  assailed  the 
volunteers  on  all  sides,  forcing  them  to  fight  their  way  as  they  fell  back  to  the  Touchet 
river.  Through  the  whole  day  and  until  evening,  yes,  into  the  night  after  their  arri- 
val at  the  latter  stream,  the  contest  was  maintained,,  a  constant,  harassing  skirmish. 
The  soldiers  would  drive  the  Indians  back  again  and  again,  but  as  soon  as  the  retreat 
•was  resumed,  ilie  red  skins  were  upon  them  once  more.  Finally,  after  going  into  camp 
on  the  Touchet,  Colonel  Gilliam  ordered  the  captured  stock  turned  loose,  and  when 
the  Indians  got  possession  of  it,  they  returned  to  Snake  river  without  molesting  the 
command  any  further.  In  the  struggle  on  the  Touchet,  when  the  retreating  soldiers 
first  reached  that  stream,  William  Taylor  was  mortally  wounded  by  an  Indian  who 
sprang  up  in  the  bushes  by  the  stream  and  fired  with  but  a  few  yards  between  them- 
Nathan  Olney,  afterwards  Indian  agent,  seeing  the  act,  rushed  upon  the  savage,  snatched 
from  his  hand  a  war  club  in  which  was  fastened  a  piece  of  iron,  and  dealt  him  a  blow 
on  the  head  with  it  with  such  force  as  to  cause  the  iron  to  split  the  club,  and  yet  failed 
to  kill  him.  He  then  closed  with  his  antagonist  in  a  hand  to  hand  struggle,  and  soon 
ended  the  contest  with  a  knife.  The  writer  has  not  been  able  to  learn  of  any  other 
known  casualties  in  that  affair,  which  ended  without  having  accomplished  anything  to 
further  the  purposes  of  the  campaign. 

Colonel  Gilliam  started  from  the  mission  on  the  twentieth  of  March,  with  a  small 
force  destined  to  return  from  the  Dalles  with  supplies,  while  he  was  to  continue  to  the 
Willamette  and  report  to  the  governor.  While  camped  at  Well  Springs  he  was  killed 
by  an  accidental  discharge  of  a  gun,  and  his  remains  were  taken  to  his  friends  west  of 
the  Cascades  by  Major  Lee.  This  officer  soon  returned  to  his  regiment  with  a  com- 
mission as  colonel,  but  finding  Lt.  Col.  Waters  had  been  elected  by  the  regiment  to 
that  position  in  his  absence,  he  resigned  and  filled  a  subordinate  oflSce  for  the  remainder 
of  his  term  of  enlistment.  The  attempt  by  commissioners,  who  had  been  sent  with  the 
volunteers,  as  requested  by  the  Indians  in  their  memorial  to  the  Americans,  to  nego- 
tiate a  peaceful  solution  of  the  difficult  problem,  failed.  They  wanted  the  Indians  to 
deliver  up  for  execution  all  those  who  had  imbued  their  hands  in  the  blood  of  our 
countrymen  at  Waiilatpu,  and  it  included  several  chiefs ;  they  wished  the  Cayuses  to 
pay  all  damages  to  emigrants  caused  by  their  being  robbed  or  attacked  while  passing 
through  the  Cayuse  country.  The  Indians  wished  nothing  of  the  kind.  They  wanted 
peace,  and  to  be  let  alone ;  for  the  Americans  to  call  the  account  balanced  and  droj) 
the  matter.  The  failure  to  agree  had  resulted  in  two  or  three  skirmishes,  one  of  them 
at  least  a  severe  test  of  strength,  in  which  the  Indians  had  received  the  worst  of  it,  and 
in  the  other  the  volunteers  had  accomj^lished  nothing  that  could  be  counted  a  success. 
The  Cayuses  finding  that  no  compromise  could  be  effected,  abandoned  their  country, 
and  most  of  them  passed  east  of  the  mountains.  Nothing  was  left  for  the  volunteers 
but  to  leave  the  country  also,  which  they  did,  and  the  Cayuse  war  had  practically 
ended.  Finally,  they  were  given  to  understand  that  peace  could  never  exist  between 
them  and  the  Americans  until  the  murderers  were  delivered  up  for  punishment. 

At  that  time,  early  in  1850,  Tam-su-ky  and  his  supporters,  including  many 
relatives  who  had  not  in  any  manner  participated  in  the  massacre,  were  hiding  in  the 
mountains  at  the  head  of  John  Day  river.  The  Indians  who  desired  peace  went  after 
them,  and  a  fight  ensued,  ending  in  the  capture  of  nearly  all  of  the  turbulent  band. 


Only  one,  however,  of  the  five  who  were  actually  engaged  in  the  Ijloody  work  at 
AVaiilatiHX  (so  the  Whitman  Indians  assert)  was  captured,  and  he  was  Ta-nia-has,  a 
bloody-minded  villain  whom  his  countrymen  called  The  "Murderer."  It  was  he  who 
commenced  the  work  of  death  by  braining  Dr.  Whitman  with  a  hatchet.  Taking  him 
and  four  others,  several  of  the  older  men  and  chiefs  went  to  Oregon  City  to  deliver 
them  up  as  hostages.  They  were  at  once  thrown  into  prison,  condemned,  and  hung  at 
Oregon  City  on  the  third  of  June,  1850 ;  and  even  the  ones  who  brought  them,  in 
view  of  this  summary  proceeding,  congratulated  themselves  upon  their  safe  return. 
They  believed  that  Ta-ma-has  should  have  been  hung,  but  not  the  other  four,  not 
understanduig  the  theory  of  accomplices,  and  so  the  few  survivors  of  the  tribe  assert  to 
the  iiresent  dav. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


TERRITORIAL  GOVERNMENT  OF  OREGON. 

Discourag;ing;  News  Brouefht  by  Immigrants  in  1847  -Letters  from  President  Polk  and  Senator  Benton  -J. 
Quinn  Thornton's  Mission  to  Washington  Senatorial  Struggle  over  the  Oregon  Bill— Joe  Meeks'  Trip 
Across  the  Continent— Arrival  of  Governor  Lane  -Discovery  of  Gold— Effect  upon  Oregon  -Beaver  Money- 
Steps  Leading  to  Creation  of  Washington  Territory  -Division  of  Oregon  -First  Government  of  Washing- 
ton Territory— Indian  War  of  1855-6. 

With  the  immigration  of  1S47,  so  large  and  so  encouraging  to  the  struggling  set- 
tlers of  Oregon,  came  the  disheartening  intelligence  that  congress  had  failed  utterly  to 
l)rovide  for  a  territorial  government  for  this  neglected  region,  or  to  extend  to  it  in  any 
way  the  benefit  of  the  national  laws.  Four  years  had  the  people  of  Oregon  governed 
themselves,  loyal  in  heait  and  deed  to  their  native  land,  and  for  a  year  had  England 
by  solemn  treaty  relinquished  all  her  asserted  rights,  and  yet  the  national  legislature 
denied  it  the  aid  and  protection  of  the  law.  Congress  had,  during  the  session  of  1840-7, 
iiKide  an  appropriation  for  a  mail  service  ria  Panama  to  Oregon,  and  two  post  masters 
were  appointed,  one  for  Astoria  and  one  for  Oregon  City,  also  an  Indian  agent.  By 
one  of  the  new  officials,  Mr.  Shively,  James  Buchanan,  secretary  of  state,  transmitted  a 
letter  to  the  people,  expressing  the  deep  regret  of  President  Polk  that  congress  had 
been  so  unmindful  of  their  needs  and  rights.  The  communication  also  contained  the 
assurance  that  the  executive  would  extend  to  this  far  off  region  all  the  protection  with- 
in his  power,  including  occasional  visits  of  vessels  of  war  and  the  presence  of  a  regi- 
ment of  dragoons  to  guard  the  immigration.  Mr,  Shively  also  bore  a  letter  from 
Thomas  H.  Benton,  that  sturdy  senator  from  Missouri,  whose  voice  and  pen  had  un- 
swervingly championed  the  cause  of  Oregon  for  thirty  years.  In  tliis  letter,  dated  at 
Wiishino-ton  Citv.  March,  1S47.  Mr.   Benton  savs  : 


164  OREGON. 

"  The  house  of  representatives,  as  early  as  the  middle  of  January,  had  passed  the 
bill  to  give  you  a  territorial  government,  and  in  that  bill  had  sanctioned  and  legalized 
your  provisional  organic  act,  one  of  the  clauses  of  which  forever  prohibited  the 
existence  of  slavery  in  Oregon.  An  amendment  from  the  senate's  committee  to  whieli 
this  bill  was  referred,  proposed  to  abrogate  that  prohibition,  and  in  the  delays  and  vex- 
ations to  which  that  amendment  gave  rise,  the  whole  bill  was  laid  upon  the  table,  and 
lost  for  the  session.  *  *  *  But  do  not  be  alarmed  or  desperate.  You  will  not  l)e 
outlawed  for  not  admitting  slavery.  *  *  *  A  home  agitation,  for  election  and  dis- 
union purposes,  is  all  that  is  intended  by  thrusting  this  fire  brand  question  into  your 
bill ;  and,  at  the  next  session,  when  it  is  thrust  in  again,  we  will  scourge  it  out !  and  pass 
your  bill  as  it  ought  to  be.  ''''  *  '"''  'In  conclusion,  I  have  to  assure  you  that  the 
same  spirit  which  has  made  me  the  friend  of  Oregon  for  thirty  years — which  led  me 
to  denounce  the  joint  occupation  treaty  the  day  it  was  made,  and  to  oppose  its  revival 
in  1828,  and  to  labor  for  its  abrogation  until  it  was  terminated  ;  the  same  spirit  which 
led  me  to  reveal  the  grand  destiny  of  Oregon  in  articles  written  in  1818,  and  to  sup- 
port every  measure  for  her  benefit  since — this  spirit  still  animates  me,  and  will  continue 
to  do  so  while  I  live — which,  I  hope,  will  be  long  enough  to  see  an  emporium  of 
Asiatic  commerce  at  the  mouth  of  your  river,  and  a  stream  of  Asiatic  trade  pouring 
into  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  through  the  channel  of  Oregon."  Would  that  the 
grand  old  statesman  could  have  lived  to  see  his  prophecy  fulfilled  in  the  new  era  upon 
which  far  off  Oregon — now  far  oflP  no  longer — has  so  propitiously  entered. 

These  letters  were  both  disheartening  and  cheering.  The  people  felt  despondent 
at  being  so  neglected  by  the  authorities  of  their  loved  country,  but  were  cheered  by 
the  thought  that  warm  friends  were  laboring  for  their  welfare  far  beyond  the  reach 
of  their  grateful  voices.  Hon.  J.  Quinu  Thornton,  supreme  judge  of  the  provisional 
government,  had  been,  during  the  past  year,  frequently  urged  by  influential  men,  to 
proceed  to  Washington  and  labor  with  congress  in  behalf  of  Oregon.  In  particular 
had  the  lamented  Dr.  Whitman  requested  him  so  to  do,  asserting  that  only  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  strong  territorial  government,  one  that  the  Indians  would  recognize  as 
powerful,  would  "  save  him  and  his  mission  from  falling  under  the  murderous  hands  of 
savages."  Mr.  Thornton  recognized  the  importance  of  such  a  delegate,  and  solicited 
Hon.  Peter  H.  Burnett,  subsequently  the  first  governor  of  California,  to  undertake  the 
mission,  but  without  success.  The  news  of  the  state  of  affairs  at  Washington  brought 
by  Mr.  Shiveiy,  decided  Mr.  Thornton,  and  on  the  eighteenth  of  October,  1847,  having 
resigned  his  judicial  office,  he  departed  on  his  arduous  mission,  armed  with  a  letter 
from  Governor  Abernethy  to  President  Polk.  Mr.  Thornton  was  by  no  means  a  reg- 
ularly constituted  delegate,  since  Oregon  was  not  authorized  to  accredit  such  an  official 
to  congress,  but  simply  went  as  a  private  individual,  re^n-esenting  in  an  unoflBcial  man- 
ner the  governor  and  many  of  the  prominent  citizens  of  Oregon.  In  fact  the  legis- 
lature, deeming  its  functions  infringed  upon  by  this  action  of  the  governor,  passed 
resolutions  embodying  their  idea  of  the  harm  done  the  colony  by  the  ofiiciousness  of 
"  secret  factions." 

There  was  not  ready  money  enough  in  the  treasury  to  have  paid  the  passage  of 
Mr.  Thornton,  even  had  it  been  at  his  disposal.  A  collection  was  taken  up,  contri- 
butions being  made  partly  in  coin   but  chiefly  in  flour,  clothing,  and  anything  that 


^^yfe-1 
^^^^^a.   ^ 


i 


I^S& 


Mill  Property  of  Gurney  Bros. 
Ten  Mile,  Douglas  Co, 


OREGON  ]65 

could  be  of  service  or  was  convertible  into  money.  A  contract  was  made  with  Captain 
Roland  Gelston,  of  the  bark  Whit/on,  to  convey  Mr.  Thornton  to  Panama,  and  the 
vessel  sailed  at  once  for  San  Francisco,  and  thence  to  San  Juan,  on  the  coast  of  Lower 
California.  Here  the  Captain  informed  his  passenger  that  he  must  decline  to  fultill 
his  contract^  as  he  desired  to  engage  in  the  coasting  trade.  From  the  perplexing 
dilemma  he  was  extricated  by  Captain  Montgomery,  commanding  the  United  States 
sloop  of  war,  Portsmouth,  then  lying  at  anchor  in  the  harbor.  This  gentleman  deemed 
the  mission  of  Mr.  Thornton  of  sufficient  importance  to  the  government  to  justify 
him  in  leaving  his  station  and  returning  with  his  vessel  to  the  Atlantic  coast.  He 
accordingly  tendered  the  delegate  the  hospitalities  of  his  cabin,  and  set  sail  as  soon  as 
preparations  could  be  made  for  the  voyage.  The  Portsmouth  arrived  in  Boston  harbor 
on  the  second  of  May,  1848,  and  Mr.  Thornton  at  once  hastened  to  Washington  to 
consult  with  President  Polk  and  Senators  Benton  and  Douglas,  those  warm  champions 
of  Oregon,  as  to  the  proper  course  to  pursue.  By  them  he  was  advised  to  prepare  a 
memorial  to  be  presented  to  congress,  setting  forth  the  condition  and  needs  of  the  peo- 
ple whom  he  represented.  This  he  did,  and  the  document  w-as  j^i'esented  to  the  senate 
by  Mr.  Benton,  and  was  printed  for  the  use  of  both  branches  of  congress.  Mr.  Thorn- 
ton also  drafted  a  bill  for  organizing  a  territorial  government,  which  was  introduced 
and  placed  upon  its  passage.  This  bill  contained  a  clause  prohibiting  human  slaveiy, 
and  for  this  reason  was  as  objectionable  to  the  slaveholding  force  in  congress  as  had 
been  the  previous  one.  Under  the  lead  of  Senators  Jefferson  Davis  and  John  C.  Cal- 
houn, this  wing  of  the  national  legislature  made  a  vigorous  onslaught  upon  the  bill, 
and  fought  its  progress  step  by  step  with  unabated  determination,  resorting  to  all  the 
legislative  tactics  known,  to  so  delay  its  consideration  that  it  could  not  be  finally  passed 
by  the  hour  of  noon  on  the  fourteenth  of  August,  the  time  fixed  by  joint  resolution  for 
the  close- of  that  session  of  congress. 

The  contest  during  the  last  two  days  of  the  session  was  exciting  in  the  extreme, 
and  the  feeling  intense  throughout  the  Union.  The  friends  of  the  bill  had  decided 
upon  a  policy  of  "  masterly  inactivity,"  refraining  entirely  from  debate  and  yielding 
the  floor  absolutely  to  the  "  filibusters,"  who  were  therefore  much  distressed  for  means 
to  consume  the  slowly  passing  hours.  Though  silent  in  speech  they  were  constantly 
present  in  force  to  prevent  the  opposition  from  gaining  time  by  an  adjournment.  The 
bill  was  then  on  its  second  passage  in  the  senate,  for  the  purpose  of  concurrence  Avith 
amendments  which  had  been  added  by  the  house.  On  Saturday  morning,  August  12, 
the  managers  of  the  bill  decided  to  prevent  an  adjournment  until  it  had  been  disposed 
of,  having  a  sufficient  majority  to  pass  it.  The  story  of  that  memorable  contest  is  thus 
told  by  Mr.  Thornton,  who  sat  throughout  the  scene  an  earnest  spectator : 

"  I  re-entered  the  senate  chamber  with  the  deepest  feelings  of  solicitude,  and  yet 
hopeful  because  of  the  assurances  which  had  been  given  to  me  by  the  gentlemen  I  have 
named.  [Douglas,  Benton  and  Hale.]  I  soon  saw,  however,  that  Calhoun  and  But- 
ler, of  South  Carolina;  Davis  and  Foote,  of  Mississippi;  and  Hunter  and  Mason  of 
Virginia,  as  leaders  of  the  opposition,  had  girded  up  their  loins  and  had  buckled  on 
their  armor  for  the  battle.  The  friends  of  the  bill,  led  by  Mr.  Benton,  having  taken 
their  position,  waited  calmly  for  the  onset  of  their  adversaries,  who  spent  Saturday 
until  the  usual  lionr  of  adjournnient    in  skirmishing  in  force,  as  if  feeling  the  strength 


1G6  OEEGON. 

of  their  opponents.  When  the  motion  was  made  at  the  usual  time  in  the  afternoon  for 
adjournmeut,  the  friends  of  the  bill  came  pouring  out  of  the  retiring  rooms,  and  on 
coming  inside  the  bar  they  voted  'No'  with  very  marked  emphasis.  '^  *  *  This 
state  of  affiiirs  continued  until  after  night.  [Here  ensued  a  series  of  filibustering  tactics, 
(hiring  which  a  personal  altercation  between  Judge  Butler  and  Senator  Benton  came 
near  resulting  in  blows.]  General  Foote,  the  collegue  of  Jeflf.  Davis,  then  rose,  and  in 
a  drawling  tone  assumed  for  the  occasion,  said  his  powers  of  endurance,  he  believed, 
would  enable  him  to  continue  his  address  to  the  senate  until  Monday,  12  o'clock  M., 
and  although  he  could  not  promise  to  say  much  on  the  subject  of  the  Oregon  bill,  he 
could  not  doubt  that  he  would  be  able  to  interest  and  greatly  edify  distinguished  sena- 
tors. The  friends  of  the  bill,  seeing  what  was  before  them,  posted  a  page  in  the  door- 
way opening  into  one  of  the  retii-ing  rooms,  and  then,  after  detailing  a  few  of  their 
number  to  keep  watch  and 'ward  on  the  floor  of  the  senate,  withdrew  into  the  room  of 
which  I  have  spoken,  to  chat  and  tell  anecdotes  and  to  drink  wine,  or  perhaps  some- 
thing even  much  stronger,  and  thus  to  wear  away  the  slowly  and  heavily  passing  hours 
of  that  memorable  Saturday  night.  Soon  great  clouds  of  smoke  filled  the  room,  and 
from  it  issued  th'e  sound  of  the  chink  of  glasses,  and  of  loud  conversation,  almost  drown- 
ing the  eloquence  of  the  Mississippi  senator,  as  he  repeated  the  bible  story  of  the 
cosmogany  of  the  world,  the  creation  of  man,  the  taking  from  his  side  of  the  rib  from 
which  Eve  was  made,  her  talking  with  the  'snake,'  as  he  called  the  evil  one,  the  fall  of 
man,  etc.  etc.  The  galleries  were  soon  deserted.  Many  of  the  aged  senators  prostrated 
themselves  upon  the  sofas  in  one  of  the  retiring  rooms,  and  slumbered  soundly,  while 
'thoughts  that  breathed  and  words  that  burned'  fell  in  glowing  eloquence  from  the  lips 
of  the  Mississippi  senator,  as  he  continued  thus  to  instruct  and  edify  the  few  watching 
friends  of  the  bill,  who,  notwithstanding  the  weight  of  seventy  years  pressed  heavily 
upon  some  of  them,  were  as  wide  awake  as  the  youngest ;  and  they  sat  firm  and  erect 
in  their  seats,  watching  with  lynx  eyes  every  movement  of  the  adversaries  of  the  bill. 

"At  intervals  of  about  an  hour,  the  sj^eaker  would  yield  the  floor  to  a  motion  for 
adjournment,  coming  from  the  opposition.  Then  the  sentinel  page  at  the  door  would 
give  notice  to  the  waking  senators  in  the  retiring  room,  and  these  would  immediately 
arouse  the  slumbering  senators,  and  all  would  then  rush  pell  mell  through  the  doorway, 
and  when  the  inside  of  the  bar -was  reached,  would  vote  'No'  with  a  thundering  emphasis. 
Occasionally  southern  senators,  toward  Sunday  morning,  relieved  Gen.  Foote  by  short, 
dull  sjieeches,  to  which  the  friends  of  the  bill  vouchsafed  no  answers ;  so  that  Mr.  Cal- 
houn and  his  pro-slavery  subordinates  had  things  for  the  most  part  all  their  own  way 
until  Sabbath  morning,  August  13,  1848,  at  about  eight  o'clock,  when  the  leading 
opponents  of  the  bill  collected  together  in  a  knot,  and  after  conversing  together  a  short 
time  in  an  undertone,  the  Mississippi  senator  who  had  been  so  very  edifying  and  enter- 
taining during  the  night,  said  that  no  further  opposition  would  be  made  to  taking  a 
vote  on  the  bill.     The  ayes  and  nayes  were  then  called  and  the  bill  passed." 

Not  alone  to  Mr.  Thornton  is  due  the  honor  of  representing  Oregon  at  Washington 
dui-ing  that  long  struggle  for  justice.  Another  delegate,  one  with  even  better  creden- 
tials than  the  first,  was  there  to  aid  in  the  work.  This  was  Joseph  L.  Meek,  the  moun- 
taineer and  trajjper  whose  name  is  indelibly  inscribed  upon  the  early  annals  of  the  Pacific 
coast.     When  the  massacre  of  the  martyred  Whitman  and  his  associates  at  Waiihitpu 


OREGON.  167 


|iliinL;cJ  tlie  settlers  into  a  state  of  niingled  grief  and  alarm,  it  was  thought 
to  di.spatch  a  messenger  at  once  to  Washington  to  impart  the  intelligence,  impress  the 
authorities  with  the  precarious  situation  of  the  colony,  and  appeal  for  protection. 
Winter  had  set  in  with  all  its  vigors  in  the  mountains.  The  terrible  journey  made  at 
that  season  six  years  before  by  Dr.  Whitman,  on  his  patriotic  mission,  the  same  person 
wliose  martyrdom  now  rendered  a  second  journey  necessary,  was  fresh  in  the  minds  of 
all,  and  appalled  the  stoutest  heart.  Mr.  Thornton  had  taken  the  longer  but  safer 
route  by  sea,  but  time  was  too  precious,  too  much  was  at  stake,  to  admit  of  the  delay 
such  a  journey  would  impose,  even  if  the  vessel  were  at  hand  to  aiford  the  means. 
Nothing  but  a  trip  across  the  thousands  of  miles  of  snow-bound  mountains,  plains  and 
deserts,  would  be  of  any  avail.  In  the  emei-gency  all  turned  to  Joseph  L.  Meek  as  the 
one  man  in  their  midst  whose  intrepid  courage,  great  pow'ers  of  physical  endurance, 
long  exi^erience  in  mountain  life  and  familiarity  with  the  routes  of  travel  and  Indian 
tribes  to  be  encountered,  rendered  him  capable  of  undertaking  the  task  with  a  good 
prospect  of  success.  Unhesitatingly  he  accepted  the  mission,  resigned  his  seat  in  the 
legislature,  received  his  credentials  as  a  delegate  from  that  body,  and  set  out  on  the 
fourth  of  January  for  Washington,  accompanied  by  John  Owens  and  George  Ebberts, 
who  decided  to  go  with  him  and  avail  themselves  of  his  services  as  guide  and  director. 
At  The  Dalles  they  w^ere  forced  to  delay  several  weeks  until  the  arrival  of  the  Oregon 
volunteers  rendered  it  safe  for  them  to  proceed,  since  the  whole  upper  countrv  was 
overrun  by  hostile  Indians. 

They  accompanied  the  troops  to  Waiilatpu,  where  Meek  had  the  mournful  satis- 
faction of  assisting  in  the  burial  of  the  victims  of  Cayuse  treachery,  among  whom  was 
iiis  own  daughter,  and  then  were  escorted  by  a  company  of  troops  to  the  base  of  the 
Ijlue  mountains,  where  they  finally  entered  upon  their  long  and  solitary  journey.  By 
avoiding  the  Indians  as  much  as  possible,  and  whenever  encountered  by  them  repre- 
senting themselves  as  Hudson's  Bay  Company  men,  they  reached  Fort  Boise  in  safetv- 
Here  two  of  four  new  volunteers  for  the  journey  became  discouraged  and  decided  to 
lemain.  The  other  five  travelers  pushed  on  to  Fort  Hall,  saving  themselves  from  the 
clutch  of  the  Bannacks  only  by  Meek's  experience  in  dealing  with  the  savages.  It  is 
needless  to  recount  the  many  hardships  they  endured,  the  sleepless  nights  and  dinner- 
less  days,  the  accidents,  dangers,  fatigues,  narrow  esca|:)es  from  hostile  Indians  and  the 
thousand  discomforts  and  misadventures  to  which  they  were  subjected.  It  is  sufficient 
to  say  that  through  all  these  they  passed  in  safety,  never  forgetting  for  an  instant  the 
imperative  necessity  for  haste,  and  never  flinching  from  the  trials  that  lay  in  their 
pathway.  The  hearty  invitation  to  spend  a  few  weeks  here  or  there  in  the  few  jj'aces 
where  they  encountered  friends  and  comfortable  quarters,  was  resolutely  declined,  and 
with  only  such  delay  as  was  absolutely  rec|uired,  they  plunged  again  into  the  snowy 
mountain  passes  with  their  faces  resolutely  .set  towards  the  rising  sun.  They  reached 
!St.  Joseph  in  but  little  more  than  two  mouths  after  leaving  the  Willamette  valley, 
having  made  the  ijuickest  trip  across  the  continent  that  had  been  accomplished  at  aiiv 
season  of  the  year. 

Meek  was  now  reduced  to  most  embarrassing  straits.  Dressed  in  buckskin  and 
lilanket  clothes  and  wolf  skin  cap,  ragged  and  dirty  in  the  extreme,  beard  and  hair 
long  and  unkempt,   without   monev    or   friends,   how  to  get   to  Washington   or  how 


to  conduct  himself  when  there,  were  jjerplexing  questions.  His  solution  of  the  diffi- 
culty was  a  characteristic  one.  By  making  a  clown  of  himself  at  one  place,  by  assum- 
ing an  air  of  imijortance  and  dignity  at  another,  he  succeeded  in  reaching  the  city  of 
his  destination  only  a  week  or  two  later  than  Mr.  Thornton,  though  his  news  from 
Oregon  was  four  months  fresher  than  that  brought  by  his  predecessor.  The  united 
labors  of  these  two  men  brought  about  the  result  which  has  been  detailed,  the  passage 
of  the  act  of  August  14,  1848,  creating  the  territory  of  Oregon. 

President  Polk,  the  staunch  friend  of  Oregon,  the  man  who  had  been  elevated  to 
the  chief  office  in  the  nation  amid  the  universal  shout  of  "  Fifty-four-forty-or-fight !  " 
was  eager  to  have  the  work  consummated  before  the  expiration  of  his  term  on  the  fourth 
of  the  ensuing  March.  To  this  end  he  appointed  Meek  marshal  of  the  new  territory, 
and  delegated  him  to  convey  a  governor's  commission  to  General  Joseph  Lane,  then 
]-esiding  in  Indiana  and  unaware  of  the  honor  to  be  conferred,  or  the  sacrifice  to  be  re- 
quired, in  which  ever  light  it  may  be  viewed.  With  that  promjjtness  of  decision  and 
action  which  was  General  Lane's  distinguishing  characteristic,  he  accepted  the  com- 
mission on  the  spot,  and  in  three  days  had  disposed  of  his  property,  wound  up  his  bus- 
iness affairs  and  begun  his  journey  to  the  far  off"  wilds  of  Oregon.  They  were  escorted 
by  a  detachment  of  troops,  and  after  a  journey  of  six  months,  by  the  way  of  New 
Mexico  and  Arizona,  seven  only  of  the  party  reached  San  Francisco,  two  having  died 
on  the  route  and  the  others  having  deserted  to  try  their  fortunes  in  the  new  gold  fields 
of  the  Sierra.  These  seven  were  General  Lane,  Marshal  Meek,  Lieutenant  Hawkins, 
Surgeon  Hayden  and  three  enlisted  men.  Taking  passage  in  the  schooner  Jeannette, 
they  reached  the  Columbia  river  after  a  tedious  voyage  of  eighteen  days,  ascended  that 
stream  to  Oregon  City,  a  distance  of  120  miles,  in  small  boats,  reaching  that  jjlace, 
then  the  seat  of  government,  on  the  second  of  March,  1849.  The  following  day  Gov- 
ernor Lane  issued  his  proclamation  and  assumed  the  duties  of  his  office,  being  but  one 
day  before  the  expiration  of  President  Polk's  official  term. 

The  first  territorial  officers  of  Oregon  were  :  governor,  Joseph  Lane ;  secretary, 
Kintzing  Pritchett ;  treasurer,  James  Taylor ;  auditor,  B.  Gervais  ;  chief  justice,  Wil- 
liam P.  Bryant ;  associate  justices,  O.  C.  Pratt  and  P.  A.  Burnett ;  United  States 
marshal,  Joseph  L.  Meek ;  superintendent  of  common  schools,  James  McBride  ;  libra- 
rian, W.  T.  Matlock  ;  territorial  printer,  Wilson  Blain  ;  commissioner  of  Cayuse  war 
claims,  A.  A.  Skinner.  All  of  these  officials,  save  the  governor,  secretary,  marshal  and 
judges,  were  appointed  by  the  legislature  when  it  convened  in  the  fall. 

General  Lane  appointed  census  marshals  as  provided  for  in  the  organic  act,  who 
reported  the  population  of  the  territory  as  shown  in  the  following  table: 


Census  of  1840, 


if 

1* 

k 

=3 

a 

Fc 

reignei 

s. 

o 

u 

H 

a  S 

COUNTIES. 

=5      -r^ 

|1 

Ml 

3 
^ 

Clackamas 

Tualatin 

Champoeg 

401 
346 
465 

49 
394 
387 

39 

295 

271 

4 

390 
293 

458 
100 
402 
327 

33 
269 
229 

22 

585 

s? 

75 
557 
509 

37 
359 
370 

20 

4 
5 

3 

1 

12 

23 
94 
3 

8 

1 

31 

39 

5 
13 
4 
4 

12 

1376 

1107 

1570 

224 

1353 

1173 

109 

923 

870 

80 

17 

35 

"1 

15 
1 

36 

79 

1393 
1142 

1682 
227 
1368 
1174 
145 
923 
870 
150 

Yamhill 

Polk 

Lewis  

Liim ■ 

Bentou 

Vancouver 

Total  

2601 

2523 

3627 

15 

211 

46 

8795 

298 

9083 

Subsequent  to  the  departure  of  Thornton  and  Meek  upon  their  mission  to  Wash- 
ington, but  prior  to  the  return  of  the  latter  with  Governor  Lane,  a  new  era  set  in  on 
tlie  Pacific  coast.  On  the  nineteenth  of  January,  1848,  James  W.  Marshall  discovered 
gold  on  the  south  fork  of  the  American  river,  in  California.  Marshall  had  come  to 
Oregon  in  the  immigration  of  1844,  and  had  the  next  year  passed  south  into  Cali- 
fornia, where  he  entered  the  employment  of  Captain  John  A.  Sutter,  who  had  crossed 
the  plains  to  Oregon  in  1838  and  to  California  by  way  of  the  Sandwich  islands  in  1839. 
In  the  fall  of  1847,  Marshall  went  up  into  the  Sierras  east  of  Sutter's  settlement  of 
New  Helvetia  (Sacramento),  and  began  building  a  saw  mill  for  his  employer,  which 
was  nearly  completed  at  the  time  he  accidentally  discovered  gold  in  the  tail  race.  All 
California  was  excited  by  the  discovery,  and  nearly  every  able-bodied  man  abandoned 
everything  and  hastened  to  the  mines.  The  intelligence  did  not  reach  Oregon  until 
the  following  August,  and  the  effect  upon  such  a  class  of  adventurous  spirits  as  com- 
posed the  pioneers  can  w'ell  be  imagined.  There  was  at  once  a  gi-eat  rush  for  Cali- 
fornia, and  it  looked  as  though  Oregon  would  be  deserted  and  relegated  back  to  the 
dominion  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  Indians.  This,  however,  was  but  tem- 
porary. Family  and  business  ties  held  many  back  and  hastened  the  return  of  others, 
many  bringing  with  them  heavy  sacks  of  the  yellow  treasure.  What  had  at  first 
2"»romised  to  be  an  overwhelming  calamity  soon  proved  a  bountiful  blessing.  Thous- 
ands of  men  poured  into  California  from  every  quarter  of  the  world,  and  a  brisk 
demand  at  once  sprung  up  for  the  grain,  flour,  vegetables  and  food  products  of  all 
kinds  which  Oregon  could  produce  in  abundance,  but  for  which  no  market  had  pre- 
viously existed.  California  gold  began  to  pour  into  Oregon  in  a  steady  stream,  com- 
merce began  to  assume  large  proportions,  a  custom  house  was  established  at  Astoria, 
and  this  region  made  great  strides  on  the  road  to  wealth  and  prosperity.  This  sudden 
increase  in  business  gave  rise  to  a  direct  infringement  of  the  constitutional  prohibition 
of  the  coinage  of  money  by  state  governments  or  individuals,  and  this  forms  one  of 
the  most  interesting  (>pisodcs  of  Oregon  history. 


170  OREGON. 

Duriug  the  winter  of  1848-9  people  began  straggling  back  from  the -California 
mines,  bringing  with  them  sacks  of  gold  dust.  As  a  circulating  medium  gold  in  such 
a  shape  was  inconvenient  and  certain  to  decrease  in  quantity  as  it  passed  from  hand  to 
liand,  and  an  ounce  was  only  called  the  equivalent  of  eleven  dollars  in  trade,  though 
intrinsically  worth  at  least  sixteen.  Commerce  and  business  generall)^  suffered  much 
inconvenience  from  the  lack  of  coin,  and  to  remedy  the  evil  the  legislature  passed  an 
act  providing  for  the  "  assaying,  melting,  and  coining  of  gold."  The  advent  of  Gov- 
ernor Lane  and  the  decease  of  the  provisional  government,  operated  to  render  the  act 
void  before  it  could  be  carried  into  effect.  Still  the  necessity  for  money  increased,  and 
the  want  was  sup)plied  by  private  enterprise.  A  company  was  organized  by  responsible 
and  wealthy  men,  which  issued  five  and  ten  dollar  "  Beaver  "  coins,  bearing  on  one 
side  the  figure  of  a  beaver,  over  which  appeared  the  initial  letters  of  the  names  of  the 
members  of  the  company — Kilbouru,  Magruder,  Taylor,  Abernethy,  Wilson,  Rector, 
Campbell,  Smith — and  underneath  "  O.  T.  1849."  On  the  reverse  side  was  :  "  Oregon 
Exchange  Comj^any,  130  Grains  Native  Gold,  5  D.,"  or  "  10  pwts,  20  grains,  10  D." 
The  dies  by  which  the  coins  were  stamped  were  made  by  Hamilton  Campbell,  and  the 
press  and  rolling  machinery  by  William  Eector.  The  workmanship  was  quite  credit- 
able. The  intrinsic  worth  of  these  coins  being  greater  than  their  representative  value, 
they  quickly  passed  from  circulation  wdien  the  government  coins  appeared  in  quantity, 
and  are  now  only  to  be  found  in  the  keeping  of  pioneers,  in  the  cabinets  of  curiosity 
preservers  or  the  collections  of  numismatologists. 

During  the  next  four  years  the  progress  of  the  territory  was  marked.  In  1851 
gold  was  found  to  exist  in  great  quantities  in  Southern  Oregon,  and  that  region  soon 
teemed  with  a  restless  jiopulation  of  miners.  Towns  and  cities  sprung  np,  and  the  fer- 
tile valley  lands  were  located  on  by  settlers  and  brought  under  the  dominion  of  the 
plow.  These  changes  were  accompanied  by  the  inevitable  trouble  with  the  native 
owners  of  the  soil,  and  the  scenes  of  horror  whi(;h  marked  them  are  recounted  in  other 
chapters. 

By  the  act  of  March  3,  1853,  congress  set  off  the  territory  of  AVashington  from 
that  of  Oregon,  and  gave  to  it  a  separate  political  existence.  Oregon  at  that  time  con- 
tained 341,000  square  miles,  equal  in  area  to  the  six  great  states  of  Indiana,  Illinois, 
Missouri,  Iowa,  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin,  by  far  too  large  for  admission  into  the  Union 
as  a  single  state.  Through  it  ran  the  great  Columbia  river,  dividing  it  into  nearly 
equal  parts  from  the  ocean  to  Fort  Walla  Walla,  where  it  made  a  long  sweep  to  the 
north  and  east.  That  portion  of  the  territory  lying  north  and  west  of  this  great  stream 
was  called  Northern  Oregon,  and  within  it  were  a  number  of  small  settlements,  which 
included  a  population,  "  Quite  as  great,"  declared  Joseph  Lane  in  congress,  "  as  the 
whole  of  Oregon  at  the  period  of  its  organization  into  a  territory."  In  1833  the  fort 
at  Nisqually,  near  the  head  of  Puget  sound,  was  located  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Cora- 
i)any,  and  soon  after  the  Puget  Sound  Agricultural  Company  began  to  graze  cattle 
and  sheep  in  the  vicinity,  and  to  cultivate  the  lands.  These  were  guarded  by  the 
stockade  and  buildings  afterwards  occupied  by  U.  S.  troojis,  and  known  as  Fort  Steila- 
coora.  In  1838  the  Rev.  F.  N.  Blanchet  and  Rev.  M.  Demers,  of  the  Society  of  Jesus 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  fiiith,  established  a  mission  at  Fort  Vancouver,  and  soon  after 
one  was  located  on  Cowlitz  prairie  near  a  post  that  had  been  established  by  the  Hud- 


OREGON.  171 

son's;  Bay  CoiupaDv.  In  ISo'.'  the  Methodists  hy  Kevs.  David  Leslie  and  W.  H. 
Wilson,  and  the  Catholics  by  Father  Demers,  each  established  missions  at  Nisqually. 
It  was  the  desire  of  Great  Britain,  during  the  decade  previous  to  the  treaty  of 
1846,  to  have  the  Columbia  river  declared  the  boundary  line  between  its  possessions 
and  those  of  the  United  States.  To  this  end  efforts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
were  directed,  and  they  looked  with  disfavor  upon  the  making  of  any  settlements  north 
of  that  stream  by  Americans.  Nevertheless,  in  1844,  Col.  M.  T.  Simmons  made  an 
unsuccessful  attempt  to  reach  Puget  sound,  having  crossed  the  j^lains  the  year  before. 
In  1845,  with  a  few  companions,  he  renewed  his  efforts  and  located  at  the  head  of  the 
sound,  where  the  Des  Chutes  river  empties  into  Budd's  inlet.  Their  little  settlement 
was  called  New  Market,  now  the  town  of  Tumwater,  but  a  mile  from  Olympia.  To 
this,  no  active  opposition  was  made  by  the  company  ;  and  in  the  few  following  years 
many  other  Americans  located  along  the  Cowlitz  and  other  streams,  and  about  the 
head  of  the  sound.  The  immigrants  brought  out  by  the  company  from  the  Ked  river 
settlements  in  1841,  whose  arrival  created  so  much  anxiety  in  the  minds  of  the  Amer- 
icans, located  chiefly  on  the  Cowlitz,  in  accordance  with  the  )>lan  of  making  the 
Columbia  the  dividing  line. 

June  27,  1844,  the  Oregon  Pi'ovisional  Government  designated  all  tlie  territory 
north  and  west  of  the  Columbia,  ^''ancouver  county  ;  but  owing  to  the  settlements 
alluded  to,  that  portion  lying  west  of  the  Cowlitz  was  made  Lewis  county  ;  and  the 
name  of  Clarke  was  given  to  Vancouver  county  in  1849. 

Captain  Lafayette  Beach  founded  Steilacoom  in  January,  1851.  In  February  of 
the  same  year  Pacific  county  was  created,  because  of  the  thriving  settlements  of  Pacific 
City  and  Chinook  that  had  sprung  up  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Columbia,  near  its 
mouth.  In  April,  1851,  Port  Towusend  was  located.  Congress  ertablished  the  Puget 
Sound  Collection  District  February  14,  1851,  and  a  custom  house  was  located  during 
the  year  at,  Olympia,  then  the  only  town  on  the  sound.  On  the  third  of  November, 
1851,  the  sloop  Georgiana,  Captain  Rowland,  sailed  with  twenty-two  passengers  for 
Queen  Charlotte's  island,  where  gold  had  been  discovered.  On  the  nineteenth  the 
vessel  was  cast  ashore  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  was  plundered  by  the  Indians,  and 
the  crew  and  passengers  were  held  in  captivity.  Upon  receipt  of  the  news,  the  col- 
lector of  customs  at  Olympia  dispatched  the  Damariscore,  Captain  Balch,  with  a  force 
of  volunteers  and  U.  S.  troops  from  Fort  Steilacoom,  which  had  been  garrisoned  after 
the  treaty  of  1840.  The  schooner  sailed  on  the  eighteenth  of  December,  and  returned 
to  Olympia  with  the  rescued  men  the  last  day  of  January,  1852. 

In  1852  a  superior  article  of  coal  was  found,  something  much  needed  on  the  coast, 
and  capital  was  at  once  invested  in  developing  the  mines.  Three  saw  mills  were  built 
on  the  sound  ;  and  during  the  year  (|uite  extensive  shipments  of  coal,  lumber  and  fish 
were  made.  Many  claims  were  taken  up  on  the  fine  agricultural  lands,  and  all  the  ele- 
ments for  a  vigorous  growth  were  collected  there.  The  chief  settlements  then  in  North- 
ern Oregon  were  :  Pacific  City  ;  Vancouver,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  headquarters, 
consisting  of  100  houses  occupied  by  its  employees,  chiefly  Kanakas,  enclosed  by 
l)icket  fences,  and  defended  by  armed  bastions  and  a  blockhouse  ;  Forts  Walla  Walla, 
Okinagan  and  Colville,  further  up  the  Columbia;  Olympia,  a  new  town  on  the  sound; 
Fort  Nis(jual]y  on  tlie  soun.l,  oei-upied  by  the  Puget  Sound  Agricultural  Company,  wlio 


172  OREGON. 

owned  extensive  farms  and  su2:)plied  provisions  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  besides 
shi23ping  products  to  the  Sandwich  islands  and  the  Russian  post  at  Sitka.  These  with 
many  settlements  along  the  sound  and  between  it  and  the  Columbia,  formed  a  section 
distinct  from  Oregon  proper,  with  which  they  had  no  community  of  interest,  and  from 
whom,  being  in  the  minorit}'  in  the  legislature,  they  were  unable  to  obtain  many  of 
the  rights  they  deemed  themselves  entitled  to.  Many  of  them  were  500  miles  from 
the  seat  of  the  territorial  government. 

In  September,  1852,  the  Columbian  began  publication  in  Olympia,  and  advocated 
the  formation  of  a  new  territory,  expressing  the  wish  of  a  majority  of  the  people  in  the 
Sound  country.  As  to  those  east  of  the  Cascades,  they  were  so  few  in  number,  most  of 
them  belonging  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  that  they  cared  little  about  the  matter. 
A  convention  of  delegates  from  counties  north  of  the  river  met  at  a  little  settlement  on 
the  Cowlitz  called  Monticello,  to  consider  the  question,  November  25,  1852,  A  mem- 
orial to  congress  was  prepared,  stating  the  condition  of  this  region  and  asking  that  body 
to  create  the  territory  of  Columbia,  out  of  that  j^ortion  of  Oregon  lying  north  and  west 
of  the  Columbia  river.  There  was  no  conflict  in  this  matter,  the  peoj^le  of  Oregon 
south  of  the  river  raising  no  objection  to  the  proposed  change.  In  fact,  delegate  Joseph 
Lane,  living  in  Southern  Oregon  and  elected  by  the  votes  of  that  section,  procured  the 
passage  of  the  bill  in  congress.  He  first  introduced  the  subject  on  the  sixth  of  Decem- 
ber, 1852,  by  procuring  the  passage  of  a  resolution  instructing  the  committee  on  ter- 
ritories to  consider  the  question  and  report  a  bill.  The  committee  reported  House  Bill 
No.  8,  to  organize  the  territory  of  Columbia,  which  came  upon  the  eighth  of  February, 
1853.  Mr.  Lane  made  a  short  speech  and  introduced  the  citizens'  memorial  signed  by 
G.  N.  McCanahei',  president  of  the  convention,  R.  J.  White,  its  secretary,  and  Quincy 
A.  Brooks,  Charles  S.  Hathaway,  C.  H.  Wiuslow,  John  R.  Jackson.  D.  S.  Maynard, 
F.  A.  Clarke,  and  others.  Richard  H.  Stanton,  of  Kentucky,  moved  to  substitute  the 
name  of  "  Washington  "  for  "  Columbia,"  saying  that  we  already  had  a  District  of 
Columbia  while  the  name  of  the  father  of  our  country  had  been  given  to  no  territory 
in  it.  With  this  amendment  the  bill  was  passed  through  the  house  on  the  tenth  with 
128  votes  for  and  29  against  it.  On  the  second  of  March,  it  was  adopted  by -the 
senate  and  received  the  President's  signature  the  following  day. 

The  act  created  a  territory  more  than  twice  the  size  asked  for  in  the  memorial^ 
being  "All  that  portion  of  Oregon  Territory  lying  and  being  south  of  the  forty-ninth 
degree  of  north  latitude,  and  north  of  the  middle  main  channel  of  the  Columbia  river, 
from  its  mouth  to  where  the  forty-sixth  degree  of  north  latitude  crosses  said  river  near 
Fort  Walla  Walla,  thence  with  said  forty -sixth  degree  of  latitude  to  the  summit  of  the  Rocky 
mountains."  This  included  all  of  Washington  Territory  as  it  now  stands,  and  a  portion 
of  Idaho  and  Montana.  The  act  was  in  the  usual  form  creating  territories,  and  pro- 
vided for  a  governor,  to  be  fti-q^Vio  commander-in-chief  of  militia  and  supei'inten- 
dent  of  Indian  affairs,  a  secretary,  a  supreme  court  of  three  judges,  an  attorney,  and 
a  marshal,  all  to  be  appointed  by  the  President  for  a  term  of  four  years.  It  also 
called  for  a  delegate  to  congress,  whose  first  term  was  to  last  only  during  the  congress 
to  which  he  was  elected.  A  territorial  legislature  was  created,  with  two  branches — a 
council  with  nine  members  and  a  term  of  three  years,  the  first  ones  to  serve  one,  two 
and  three  years  as  decided  by  lot  among  them  ;  and  a  house  of  eighteen  members,  with 


OREGON.  17:3 

a  term  ot'une  year,  to  be  iiicreasetl  t'roin  time  to  time  to  not  more  than  tliirty.  Twenty 
thoiLsand  dollars  were  appropriated  to  defray  the- expenses  of  a  census,  after  the  taking 
of  which  the  Governor  was  to  apportion  the  members  of  the  legislature  and  call  an 
I'lectiou  to  choose  them  and  the  delegate  to  congress.  The  first  legislature  was  to 
meet  at  any  place  the  Governor  might  select,  and  was  then  to  fix  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment itself;  |5,000  were  apportioned  for  public  buildings,  and  the  same  amount  for  a 
library.  County  and  local  officers  then  serving  were  to  hold  their  positions  until  suc- 
cessors were  chosen  tinder  acts  to  be  passed  by  the  legislature  of  the  new  territory. 
Causes  were  to  be  transferred  from  the  Oregon  courts,  and  the  territory  was  to  be 
divided  into  three  districts,  in  each  of  which  one  of  the  supreme  judges  was  to  hold  a 
district  court.  Sections  16  and  36  of  the  2)ublic  lands,  or  their  equivalent,  were  given 
the  territory  for  the  benefit  of  public  schools. 

Soon  after  his  inauguration  President  Pierce  appointed  Major  Isaac  I.  Stevens, 
United  States  engineer,  governor ;  Charles  H.  Mason,  of  Rhode  Island,  secretary  ;  J. 
S.  Clendeuin,  of  Mississippi,  attorney ;  J.  Patton  Anderson,  of  Tennessee,  marshal  ; 
Edward  Lander,  of  Indiana,  chief  justice ;  Victor  Monroe,  of  Kentucky,  and  O.  B. 
McFadden,  of  Pennsylvania,  associate  justices.  Marshal  Anderson  arrived  early  in 
the  summer,  and  took  the  census  provided  for  in  the  act,  returning  a  total  population  of 
3,96o,  of  whom  1,682  were  voters.  Governor  Stevens  was  in  charge  of  the  expedition 
sent  out  by  the  war  department  to  survey  a  northern  route  for  a  trans-continental  rail- 
load,  and  was  thus  occupied  all  the  summer  and  fall.  Upon  crossing  the  boundary 
line  of  the  new  territory  September  29,  1853,  he  issued  a  proclamation  from  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Rocky  mountains,  declaring  the  act  of  congress  and  as.suming  his  duties  as 
executive.  He  arrived  in  Olympia  in  November,  and  on  the  twenty-eighth  issued  a 
second  proclamation,  dividing  the  territory  into  judicial  and  legislative  districts  and 
calling  an  election  the  following  January.  Until  this  time  the  counties  north  of  the 
Columbia  had  constituted  the  second  judicial  district  of  Oregon,  William  H.  Strong, 
associate  justice,  presiding.  They  were  Clarke,  Lewis,  Pacific,  Thurston,  Pierce,  King, 
and  Jefferson,  all  but  the  first  three  having  been  created  by  the  Oregon  legislature 
during  the  session  of  1852-3. 

The  legislature  chosen  in  January  assembled  at  Olympia  the  following  month; 
and  in  accordance  with  provisions  of  the  organic  act,  chose  that  place  for  the  permanent 
seat  of  government.  They  created  ten  counties,  retaining  the  name  and  general  loca- 
tion of  those  set  off  by  the  Oregon  legislature.  The  counties  were  Clarke,  Lewis, 
Pacific,  Thurston,  Pierce,  King,  Jefferson,  Island,  Chehalis,  Clallam,  Cowlitz,  Sawamish 
(now  Mason),  Skamania,  Wahkiakum,  and  Walla  Walla.  Among  these,  the  repre- 
sentation in  the  assembly  was  apportioned,  and  the  territory  was  divided  into  judicial 
districts.  The  legislature  adopted  a  code  of  2)rocedure,  substantially  the  same  as  in 
force  at  the  present  time.  At  the  election  in  January,  Columbia  Lancaster,  first  chief 
justice  of  the  Oregon  provisional  government,  was  chosen  delegate  to  congress  by 
the  democrats,  his  whig  opponent  being  Col.  William  H.  Wallace  During  the  first 
two  years,  considerable  annoyance  was  caused  by  hostile  incursions  into  northern  por- 
tions of  the  territory  by  Indians  from  British  Columbia.  Some  difficulty  was  expe- 
rienced, also,  with  Indians  at  home,  but  the  energetic  action  of  Governor  Stevens  and 
the  troojts  at  Fort  Steilaconm  prevented  a  serious  outbi-eak  until  the  fall  of  IS.")."),  when 


the  Oregou-Wasliiugtou  Indian  war  Avas  begnn  and  waged  with  great  expense  to  Ijoth 
territories.  Hostilities  were  begii  u  abont  the  same  time  b^'  the  powerful  Indian  tribes  of  the 
Columbia  river  and  those  of  Southern  Oregon,  which  taxed  to  the  utmost  the  resources 
and  power  of  the  two  territories  and  that  portion  of  the  United  States  army  stationed 
on  the  coast.  The  simultaneous  beginning  of  hostilities  in  these  two  sections,  so  widely 
separated,  has  been  pointed  to  by  many  as  an  evidence  of  a  conspiracy  between  the 
natives  of  Eogue  river  valley  and  Columbia  river ;  but  the  coincidence  seems  to  be  the 
only  evidence  of  such  a  combination.  The  causes  which  led  to  the  outbreak  along 
Rogue  river,  and  the  events  of  the  long  campaign  which  followed,  are  detailed  with 
great  minuteness  in  succeeding  chapters,  and  seem  to  be  sufficient  in  themselves  to 
account  for  the  outbreak  there,  and  to  that  narrative  the  reader  is  referred.  The 
trouble  at  the  north  seems  to  have  had  its  origin  in  an  entirely  different  chain  of  causes. 

Governor  Stevens,  soon  after  entering  upon  his  career  as  chief  executive  of  Wash- 
ington, deemed  it  judicious  to  exercise  his  authority  as  ex-officio  Indian  agent,  and 
make  treaties  with  the  powerful  tribes  east  of  the  Cascades.  To  this  step  he  was 
especially  urged  by  the  fact  that  in  March,  1855,  gold  was  discovered  on  Clarke's  Fork, 
near  its  entrance  into  the  Columbia.  For  miners  to  straggle  through  the  Indian 
country,  without  a  special  treaty  having  been  made,  he  knew  was  but  to  court  the 
commission  of  murder  by  the  native  proprietors.  He  at  once  opened  negotiations,  and 
on  the  ninth  of  June  secured  the  cession  of  the  greater  portion  of  Eastern  Wash- 
ington and  a  slice  of  Oregon,  excepting  the  Umatilla  and  Yakima  reservations.  The 
treaty  was  signed  by  the  chiefs  of  the  fourteen  tribes  comprising  the  Yakima  nation, 
including  the  Palouse  Indians,  and  by  the  Cayuses,  Walla  Wallas  and  Umatillas. 
"With  the  treaty  none  of  the  Indians  were  satisfied,  and  especially  Kama-i-akun,  head 
chief  of  the  Yakiraas,  and  Peo-peo-mux-mux,  the  great  AValla  Walla  chieftain.  They 
felt  that  they  had  been  bribed  to  sell  their  country,  and  were  resentful  and  bitter. 
This  was  followed  by  similar  treaties  with  the  Nez  Perces,  Flatheads  and  the  tribes 
living  south  of  the  Columbia  between  The  Dalles  and  Umatilla  river.  Governor 
Stevens  then  crossed  the  mountains  to  treat  with  the  powerful  and  warlike  Blackfeet. 

In  the  fall  of  1875  several  men  who  were  passing  through  the  Yakima  country,  on 
their  way  from  the  Sound  to  the  Colville  mines,  were  killed  by  the  ladians.  Among 
the  killed  was  the  Indian  agent,  A.  J.  Bolan,  who  had  gone  to  inquire  into  the  circum- 
stances of  the  death  of  the  other  men.  Lieutenant  W.  A.  Slaughter,  with  forty  men, 
started  across  the  mountains  from  Fort  Steilacoom  late  in  September,  and  Major  G.  O. 
Haller  marched  south  from  The  Dalles  with  a  force  of  more  than  one  hundred  men, 
to  co-operate  with  him.  Major  Haller  engaged  the  Indians  on  Simcoe  creek,  was 
forced  to  retreat  to  the  summit  of  a  hill,  where  he  was  surrounded  by  the  enemy.  He 
dispatched  a  courier  in  haste  to  procure  aid,  but  before  it  could  reach  him  his  force  was 
driven  from  the  Indian  country  with  considerable  loss.  Upon  receipt  of  the  intelli- 
gence of  this  disaster.  Major  G.  J.  Raines,  commander  of  the  post  at  Vancouver,  ad- 
dressed communications  to  Governor  George  L.  Curry,  of  Oregon,  and  Acting  Gov- 
ernor C.  H.  Mason,  of  Washington,  requesting  the  aid  of  volunteer  trooi^s,  since  the 
national  forces  were  entirely  inadequate  to  meet  the  emergencies.  Two  companies  were 
raised  in  Washington,  which  were  mustered  into  the  regular  army,  while  the  ten  com- 
panies recruited  in  Oregon  retained  tlieir  volunteer  organization,  being  under  the  com- 


OREGON.  175 

inaiid  of  Colonel  J.  W.  Nesmith.  This  division  of  authority  led  to  a  want  of  cordial 
co-operation  and  consequent  futility  of  action.  Sixteen  other  comjjanies  were  organ- 
ized at  various  places  in  Washington  territory,  chiefly  for  home  protection. 

Lieutenant  Slaughter,  having  withdrawn  back  across  the  Cascades,  his  force  was  in- 
creased, and  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  October  again  started  for  the  Yakima  country, 
under  the  command  of  Captain  M.  Maloney.  He  soon  learned  that  no  troops  had 
started  from  The  Dalles  to  co-operate  with  him,  and  feaHng  to  be  caught  in  the  moun- 
tains by  snow  he  returned  to  Steilacoom.  Before  his  dispatch,  announcing  this  fact, 
reached  The  Dalles,  Major  Eaines  and  Colonel  Nesmith  had  jointly  marched  north- 
ward to  form  a  junction  with  him.  After  an  engagement,  in  which  Kama-i-akun's 
warriors  were  defeated,  the  Indians  abandoned  the  country  and  the  troops, 
learning  that  Captain  Maloney  had  returned  to  Steilacoom  and  required  no  assistance, 
marched  back  to  The  Dalles,  having  been  absent  about  three  weeks. 

Prior  to  the  return  of  these  two  commands,  another  foi'ce  of  volunteers  marched 
up  the  Columbia  towards  Fort  Walla  Walla,  where  Peo-peo-mux-raux,  was  reported  to 
be  stationed  with  1,000  warriors.  Other  volunteers  marched  to  join  them,  tlie  whole 
force  being  placed  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Colonel  James  K.  Kelly.  This  move- 
ment was  especially  designed  to  clear  the  route  of  hostile  Indians  and  permit  the  safe 
return  of  Governor  Stevens  from  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  that  gentleman  being 
already  on  his  way  back  and  ignorant  of  the  existing  hostilities.  In  this  movement, 
General  John  E.  Wool,  commander  of  the  department  oi  the  Pacific,  who  had  hastened 
to  the  scene  from  San  Francisco,  refused  to  jjarticipate  with  the  regular  troops,  deeming 
a  winter  campaign  unnecessary  and  unlikely  to  be  successful.  Nothing  daunted,  the 
Oregon  volunteers  proceeded  alone,  having  a  force  of  about  500  men. 

A  great  battle  was  fought  along  Walla  Walla  river,  which  lasted  three  days  and 
I'esulted  in  the  complete  defeat  of  the  Indians,  whose  loss  was  reported  at  seventy-five. 
The  troops  lost  seven  killed  and  mortally  wounded,  and  thirteen  wounded.  Among 
the  dead  on  the  Indian  side  was  the  great  Peo-j)eo-mux-mux,  who  at  the  time  of  the 
battle  was  a  hostage  in  the  hands  of  the  whites,  and  was  shot  during  the  excitement 
incident  to  the  battle.  The  Indians  then  withdrew  from  the  country,  leaving  it  in  the 
possession  of  the  volunteers,  who  spent  the  winter  there,  suffering  many  hardships. 
Governor  Stevens  returned  in  safety  and  immediately  jireferred  charges  against  General 
Wool,  accusing  him  of  incapacity  and  willful  neglect  of  duty. 

During  the  winter  the  settlements  along  Puget  sound  suffered  severely  from  tiie 
ravages  of  Indians.  Seattle  was  attacked,  and  all  of  King  county  beyond  the  limits  of 
that  place  was  devastated.  Volunteers,  regular  troops,  Indian  auxiliaries  and  the  small 
naval  force  on  the  sound,  occupied  block  houses  at  all  the  important  points  fi-om  the 
Cowlitz  to  Bellingham  bay,  but  did  not  engage  in  a  regular  campaign,  since  the  hostile 
savages  were  not  gathered  in  a  large  body  as  were  those  east  of  the  mountains,  but 
roamed  about  in  small  bands,  destroying  property  and  killing  settlei'S  wherever  they 
could  be  found  unprotected.  The  po])ulation,  to  a  great  extent,  were  collected  in  block 
houses  for  safety.  Ivirly  in  March,  IH.'Ai,  the  Oregon  volunteers  who  had  occu[)ied  tlie 
WallaWalla  country  during  the  winter,again  entered  upon  an  aggressive  campaign,  under 
tlie  command  of  Colonel  Thomas  K.  Cornelius.  After  considerable  traveling  about  north 
of  Snake  river  the  command  crossed  the  Columbia  near  the  mouth  of  the  Vakima  and 


176  OREGON. 

followed  down  the  west  bauk  to  Fort  Walla  Walla.  From  there  they  started  u[)OU  their 
return  to  The  Dalles,  i^assiug  through  the  Yakima  country.  On  the  seventeenth  of 
April,  near  Satas  creek,  the  Yakima  Indians  suddenly  attacked  the  advance  forces, 
killing  Captain  A.  J.  Hembree,  but  were  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  two  braves.  An 
engagement  ensued,  in  which  six  Indians  were  killed  and  the  others  driven  from  the 
field,  without  any  loss  to  the  volunteers.  The  troops  then  marched  to  The  Dalles, 
going  into  camp  in  Klickitat  valley.  While  there  fifty  of  Kama-i-akun's  warriors 
made  a  descent  upon  the  camp  and  captured  300  horses.  Thus  summarily  dismounted, 
the  volunteers  were  mustered  out  and  returned  to  their  homes. 

Before  this,  however,  important  events  occurred  nearer  home.  A  railway  portage 
was  under  construction  between  the  lower  and  upper  Cascades  of  the  Columbia,  on  the 
Washington  territory  side  of  the  river,  and  quite  a  force  of  men  was  at  work.  On  the 
morning  of  March  16,  a  band  of  Yakima  Indians  made  a  sudden  attack  upon  the  Upper 
Cascades.  The  men  retreated  hostility  to  a  combined  store  and  dwelling  on  the  river 
bank  and  defended  themselves  successfully  till  aid  arrived  two  days  later.  On  the 
morning  of  the  third  day  the  steamers  Ilary  and  Wasco  arrived  from  The  Dalles  loaded 
down  with  troops,  and  the  Indians  hastily  decamped.  A  like  siege  was  sustained  by 
parties  in  the  block  house  at  Middle  Cascades,  and  quite  a  battle  was  fought  at  the 
lower  landing.  In  all  fifteen  men  and  one  woman  were  killed  and  twelve  were  wounded. 
How  many  Indians  were  killed  is  not  known,  liut  nine  of  them  were  hanged  for  their 
treachery  immediately  afterwards. 

Colonel  George  Wright  marched  north  from  The  Dalles  in  May  for  the  pur- 
pose of  driving  the  Indians  out  of  the  Cascade  mountains  and  across  the  Columbia 
eastward.  Early  in  July  volunteers  from  the  sound  pushed  across  the  mountains  with- 
out encountering  the  enemy,  and  united  at  Fort  Walla  Walla  with  another  battalion 
which  had  proceeded  from  The  Dalles.  The  whole  force  numbered  350  enlisted  men, 
and  was  under  the  command  of  Colonel  B.  F.  Shaw.  With  a  portion  of  his  force  Colonel 
Shaw  crossed  the  Blue  mountains  and  fought  a  severe  battle  on  Grand  Ronde  river 
on  the  seventeenth  of  July.  At  the  same  time  another  detachment  encountered 
the  hostiles  on  Burnt  river,  and  had  an  engagement  with,  them,  lasting  two  days. 
Some  fifty  Indians  were  killed  in  these  two  battles,  while  the  loss  of  the  volunteers  was 
five  killed  and  five  wounded.  Meanwhile,  unable  to  concert  terms  of  peace  with  Kama- 
i-akun.  Colonel  Wright  marched  his  force  of  regulars  back  to  The  Dalles. 

In  the  fall  Colonel  Wright  dispatched  Lieutenant-Colonel  E.  J.  Steptoe  with  sev- 
eral companies  to  establish  a  military  j^ost  at  Walla  Walla.  Governor  Stevens  pro- 
ceeded to  that  region,  and  had  an  unsuccessful  council  with  the  hostiles.  When  he  set 
out  upon  his  return,  he  was  attacked  by  the  Indians,  and  his  small  command  defended 
itself  all  day  and  until  relieved  by  the  regulars.  In  November  Colonel  Wright  re- 
turned with  a  detachment  of  regulars  and  established  a  military  j)ost  at  Walla  Walla, 
and  held  a  council  at  which  he  procured  a  cessation  of  hostilities  by  promising  the 
Indians  immunity  for  past  offenses  and  agreeing  to  prevent  white  settlers  from  enter- 
ing their  country.  It  was  a  practical  victory  for  the  Indians.  In  November  Puget 
sound  was  invaded  by  water  by  a  band  of  northern  Indians,  who  committed  many  dep- 
redations ;  but  they  were  severely  defeated  and  driven  away  by  the  naval  forces  sta- 
tioned there  to  guard  the  sound  country. 


INDIAN  WARS. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


INDIANS  OF    SOUTHERN   OREGON. 

Relative  Importance  of  the  Subject — Material  for  Writing  History —Common  Origin  of  Indian  Wars  -Brief 
Account  of  Indian  Tribal  Affinities— Modocs,  Klamaths,  Shastas  and  Rogue  Rivers  were  Related  — Habits 
of  Life  Umpqua  Indians  Decadence  Invasion  of  Klickitats— Sources  of  Information  -Aboriginal  Desig- 
nations. 

Ainoug  those  episodes  which  lend  interest  to  the  history  of  Southern  Oregon,  the 
series  of  hostile  acts  which  we  collectively  style  the  Rogue  river  wars,  undoubtedly, 
possess  the  greatest  interest.  The  period  of  the  occurrence  of  these  events  is  so  com- 
paratively recent  that  their  recollection  is  yet  fresh  in  the  minds  of  many  who  partici- 
pated therein,  and  there  are  persons  not  yet  beyond  the  middle  years  of  life  to  whom 
they  were  once  a  present  reality.  To  write  a  history  of  those  wars  is  the  task  which 
the  writer  now  assigns  himself,  confident  that  the  collection  and  preservation  of  the 
existing  memorials  and  recollections  of  the  stirring  scenes  of  Indian  hostility  will  prove 
a  work  of  public  and  acknowledged  value.  For  such  a  work  ample  materials  exist ; 
official  documents,  reports  of  military  attaches,  newspaper  accounts,  memorials  of  gov- 
erning bodies,  the  acts  of  legislative  assemblages,  but  chiefly  the  personal  recollections 
of  eyewitnesses,  make  up  a  vast  mass  of  evidence  extraordinarily  perfect  in  scope  and 
thoroughness.  From  such  resources  the  compilation  of  a  history  sufficiently  detailed 
to  interest  those  previously  acquainted  with  its  subject,  and  sufficiently  ample  in  scope 
to  form  a  useful  addition  to  the  records  of  the  Pacific  coast,  would  seem  an  easy  task 
requiring  but  the  common  attributes  of  the  historical  writer — industry  and  conscien- 
tiousness. Under  such  circumstances  it  has  seemed  possible  to  trace  with  considerable 
minuteness  the  occurrences  of  the  wars ;  and  it  will  probably  be  more  in  consonance 
with  the  desires  of  the  readers  of  this  b;iak  if  tlie  writer  describe  in  detail  this  inter- 
esting contest,  instead  of  confining  liiiii<i'lf  in  rlic  in;i 
tion,  to  tho.se  salient  instances  in  which  the  tcinlciic 
manifested. 

It  will  doubtless  occur  to  the  alt<'nti\c  iviidcr  \vh 
count,  that  there  was  nothing  extraordinary  in  lliis  wa 
ing  circumstances  connected   with  it   that    raise   its 
oriHnai-v  Indian  war;  that  it  was   a  slrngt;lc.  siniihii' 


ler  of 

a    piiih.so 

phical  disserta- 

of  the 

age    is    : 

Host  strikingly 

rises  t'l 

I'oin  a  |)cr 

iisal  of  this  ac- 

that  t 

hcl'f  Wl'lT 

no  distiiiguish- 

ist()ry  ; 

ahnvc    tht 

'  account  of  an 

1   all"   I 

-...jH.rts.  s; 

ivc  names,  time 

178  INDIAN  WARS. 

ami  place,  to  each  of  those  innumerable  contests  by  which  the  American  settler  has 
won  his  way  to  the  possession  of  his  home,  and  driven  forward  the  bounds  of  civiliza- 
tion from  State  to  State,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific.  In  no  essential  does  it  seem 
to  differ  from  the  desperate  and  bloody  contests  waged  against  the  Indians  of  Massa- 
chusetts, of  New  York,  of  Ohio,  of  Florida,  of  Kentucky,  and  of  a  dozen  other  States, 
where  the  blood  of  the  early  settlers  was  poured  out  in  vindication  of  the  grand  prin- 
ciple of  Caucasian  progressiveness.  For  the  white  and  the  red  races  are  equally 
unconformable  to  each  other's  habits  of  life,  and  meet  only  to  repeat  the  old  story  of 
white  conquest  and  native  subjection.  Still  there  is  much  in  each  individual  account 
of  .stern  and  bloody  Indian  warring  to  enchain  the  reader's  attention,  unwearied  by 
the  hackneyed  repetition  of  sanguinary  fight  or  hair-breadth  escape.  So  we  find  it  in 
the  Rogue  river  wars ;  a  generation  has  passed,  but  the  oft-told  story  of  a  woman's 
heroic  defense  of  her  hearth,  or  the  terrible  massaci-e  of  innocents,  has  rather  gained 
than  lost  in  interest,  and  every  brave  Tecumseh,  King  Philip,  Red  Jacket,  Black 
Hawk  or  Osceola  is  matched  in  the  exploits  of  Old  John,  Joe,  Sam  and  Limpy,  hum- 
bler savages  though  they  were,  and  living  iu  a  prosaic  age  which  has  not  told  in  son|; 
their  deeds. 

To  discover  romance  or  any  elevated  qualities  in  an  Indian  distance  is  required. 
Thus  separated  from  living  aborigines  by  the  breadth  of  a  state,  Fennimore  Cooper 
was  enabled  to  give  those  inimitable  portrayals  of  the  American  Indian  which  through 
half  a  century  have  been  unrecognized.  Other  writers  have  found  their  keynote  in  a 
depreciation  of  the  savage  ;  but  the  people  of  southern  Oregon,  long  ago  sated  of  the 
Indian,  will  join  the  writer  in  denying  to  him  any  useful  or  civllizable  qualities,  but 
will  make  partial  amends  by  conceding  to  him — at  least  to  the  tribe  of  Rogue  Rivers — 
bravery  and  steadfastness  on  the  battle-field,  and  patience  and  perseverance  in  the 
worst  straits  to  which  he  was  reduced  by  war.  To  make  a  less  acknowledgment 
were  to  do  discredit  to  the  troops  by  whom  the  red  men  were  conquered,  and  to  those 
others  who  sustained  and  repelled  their  assaults  during  the  years  of  hostility.  To  ren- 
der this  much  of  justice  to  an  enemy  who  can  no  longer  ask  it,  is  befitting,  nor  does  it 
detract  from  the  credit  of  the  stronger  race.  It  seems  a  creditable  and  worthy  thing 
that  a  man  should  have  so  strong  a  sense  of  right  that,  disregarding  the  feelings  of 
friendship  and  his  own  personal  prejudices,  he  could  write  or  read  the  truth  under  all 
circumstances.  In  an  attempt  to  tell  the  exact  truth  this  account  was  composed  ;  in 
the  same  spirit  may  it  be  read. 

The  principal  tribes  with  whom  our  history  has  to  deal  were  the  Rogue  Rivers, 
Shastas,  Klamaths,  Modocs  and  Umpquas.  Among  the  first  four  are  found  strong- 
race  affinities,  and  they  spoke  dialects  of  the  same  language.  Their  localities  ad- 
joined, their  intercommunication  was  frequent,  and  in  time  of  war  they  often  fought 
side  by  side.  For  a  detailed  description  of  these  savages,  see  Mr.  Bancroft's  work  on  the 
Native  Races  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  wherein  is  embraced  an  enormous  quantity  of  in- 
formation bearing  upon  the  subject.  The  four  tribes  first  mentioned  abode  in  the 
contiguous  valleys  of  the  Rogue,  Klamath,  Shasta  and  Scott  rivers  and  their 
affluents,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Klamath,  Tule,  Clear  and  Goose  lakes.  The  country 
about  the  three  latter  belonging  exclusively  to  the  Modocs,  whose  habitations  were 
mainly  in  California.     The  Rogue  river  valley  was  occupied,   i)revious  to  the  advent 


^H 


INDIAN  WARS.  179 

of  tlie  wliites,  by  the  powerful  and  imj)ortant  tribe  known  by  the  name  of  the  river. 
Branches  of  the  tribe,  more  or  less  corrupted  by  intermixture  with  the  neighboring 
Umpquas  and  others,  lived  on  the  Illinois,  Applegate,  Big  Butte  and  other  tributary 
streams,  always  paying  to  the  head  chief  of  the  tribe  the  allegiance  customary  to  the 
aboriginal  headship.  Along  the  Klamath  river  and  about  Klamath  lake  dwelt  a 
strong  tribe,  generally  known  as  the  Klamaths.  The  Shastas  had  their  home  about 
the  base  of  the  great  mountain  of  that  name.  These  four  tribes,  apparently  equally 
numerous  and  powerful,  formed,  with  others,  what  Bancroft  has  styled  the  Klamath 
taraily.  "  This  family  is  in  every  way  superior  to  the  more  southern  tribes.  In  phys- 
i(]ue  and  character  they  approached  more  nearly  to  the  Indians  of  eastern  Oregon  than 
to  the  degraded  and  weak  tribes  of  central  California.  The  Kogue  River  Indians  were 
an  exception  to  the  general  rule  of  deterioration  on  approaching  the  coast,  for  in  their 
case  the  tendency  to  improve  toward  the  north  held  good ;  so  that  they  were  in  many 
respects  superior  to  those  of  the  interior. 

"  The  Klamaths  formerly  were  tall,  well-made  and  muscular,  with  complexions 
varying  from  black  to  light  brown,  according  to  their  proximity  to  large  bodies  of 
water.  Their  ftices  were  large,  oval  and  heavily  moulded,  with  slightly  prominent 
cheek  bones ;  nose  well  set  and  eyes  keen  and  bright.  The  women  were  short  and 
sometimes  quite  handsome,  even  in  a  Caucasian  sense."  Powers,  in  the  Overland 
Monthly,  wrote  of  the  Klamaths  :  "  Their  stature  is  a -trifle  less  than  Americans  ;  they 
have  well  sized  bodies  strong  and  well  knit.  With  their  smooth  skins,  oval  faces, 
plump  and  brilliant  eyes,  some  of  the  young  maidens — barring  the  tattooed  skins — 
have  a  piquant  and  splendid  beauty."  Gibbs,  in  Schoolcraft's  Archaeology,  says : 
"  ]Many  of  the  women  were  exceedingly  pretty,  having  large,  almond  shaped  eyes, 
sometimes  of  a  hazel  color,  and  with  the  red  showing  through  the  cheeks.  Their  fig- 
ures were  full,  their  chests  ample;  and  the  young  ones  had  well  shaped  busts  and 
rounded  limbs."  On  the  other  hand  most  travelers  have  failed  to  remark  any  special 
l)eauty  in  these  tribes,  and  some  have  chai-acterized  the  women  as  "  clumsy,  but  not 
ill-fiivored." 

As  for  clothing,  the  men  of  the  Klamath  family  anciently  wore  only  a  belt,  some- 
times a  breech-clout,  and  the  women  an  apron  or  skirt  of  deer  skin  or  braided  grass. 
In  colder  weather  they  threw  over  their  shoulders  a  cloak  or  robe  of  marten  or  rabbit 
skins  sewn  together,  deer  skin,  or  among  the  coast  tribes  sea-otter  or  seal  skin.  They 
tattooed  themselves,  the  men  on  the  chest  and  arms,  the  women  on  the  face  in  three 
blue  lines  extending  perpendicularly  from  the  centre  and  corners  of  the  mouth  to  the 
chin.  In  some  few  localities,  more  especially  near  the  lakc^,  the  men  painted  them- 
selvi's  in  various  colors  and  grotesque  pattei'us. 

Their  houses  were  of  designs  common  to  many  tribes.  Their  winter  dwellings, 
varying  with  locality,  w^ere  principally  of  two  forms,  conical  and  s(|uare.  Those  of  the 
former  shajje  prevailed  most  widely  and  were  thus  built:  A  circular  hole,  from  two  to 
live  feet  deep  and  of  variable  width,  was  dug.  Round  this  pit  or  cellar  stout  poles 
were  driven  into  the  ground,  which  being  drawn  together  at  the  toj?,  formed  the  rafters 
of  tlic  l>uil(ling.  A  covering  of  earth  several  inches  deep  was  placed  over  the  rafters, 
a  hole  was  left  at  the  top  to  serve  both  as  door  and  chimney,  to  which  rude  ladders 
composed  of  notched  [)()les  gave  access.     Some  houses  were  built  of  heavy  timljer  form- 


180  INDIAN  WARS. 

ing  H  bee-hive  shaped  structure.  The  temporary  summer  houses  of  these  tribes  were 
square,  couical  or  conoidal  in  shape,  by  driving  Hght  poles  perpendicularly  into  the 
ground  and  laying  others  across  them,  or  by  drawing  the  upj^er  ends  together  at  the 
top.  Huts  having  the  shape  of  an  inverted  bowl  were  built  by  driving  both  ends  of 
poles  into  the  ground.  These  frames,  however  shaped,  were  covered  with  neatly  woven 
lule  matting,  or  with  bushes  and  ferns.  The  ground  beneath  was  sometimes  scooped  out 
and  thrown  up  in  a  low  circular  embankment. 

The  men  of  the  tribes  were  usually  practiced  hunters.  A  portion  of  their  food 
during  a  great  part  of  the  year  w^as  the  wild  game  of  the  forest,  and  this  they  approached 
and  captured  with  considerable  adroitness.  The  elk,  too  large  and  powerful  to  be  taken 
by  bows  and  arrows,  was  sometimes  snared;  and  the  same  fate  befell  the  deer  and  ante- 
lope. The  bear  was  far  beyond  the  power  of  the  natives  when  their  only  weapons  were 
the  bow  and  arrow,  but  after  their  acquisition  of  the  white  man's  rifle,  they  have  hunted 
bruin  with  success.  The  last  grizzly  bear  ever  seen  Avest  of  the  Cascades  was  killed  in 
1877,  by  Don  Pedro,  a  Klamath,  near  White  Rock  Butte,  east  of  Roseburg. 

Fishing  was  a  more  congenial  and  more  productive  occupation  than  hunting.  Its 
results  were  more  certain,  and  in  the  prolific  waters  of  the  Klamath  and  Rogue,  more 
abundant  as  well.  Several  methods  were  in  vogue  for  taking  fish.  Sometimes  a  dam 
of  interwoven  twigs  was  placed  across  a  rapid  so  as  to  intercept  the  salmon  in  their 
periodical  visits  to  deposit  thfeir  spawn.  Within  niches  suitably  contrived  the  fish 
collected  and  were  speared.  These  dams  often  required  an  immense  amount  of  work 
in  their  construction,  especially  if  upon  a  large  stream.  (3n  Rogue  river  the  fish  were 
speared  by  torchlight  in  a  manner  similar  to  that  in  use  in  Canada  and  the  far  north. 
Many  trout  were  taken  from  small  streams  by  beating  the  water  with  brush,  whereby 
the  fish  were  driven  into  confined  spans  and  dipped  out.  Bancroft  says :  "When  preserved 
for  winter  use,  the  fish  were  split  open  on  the  back,  the  bones  taken  out,  and  then  dried 
or  smoked.  Both  meat  and  fish,  when  eaten  fresh,  are  either  broiled  on  hot  stones,  or 
boiled  in  water-tight  baskets  into  which  hot  stones  are  thrown  to  make  the  water 
boil.  Bread  is  made  of  acorns  ground  to  flour  in  a  stone  mortar  with  a  heavy  stone 
pestle,  and  baked  in  the  ashes.  Acorn  flour  is  the  principal  ingredient,  but  berries  of 
various  kinds  are  usually  mixed  in,  and  frequently  seasoned  with  some  high-flavored 
herb.  A  sort  of  pudding  is  als(j  made  in  the  same  manner,  but  it  is  lioiled  instead  of 
baked." 

The  Indians  gathered  a  great  variety  of  roots,  berries  and  seeds  which  they  made 
use  of  for  food.  The  principal  root  used  was  the  cainas,  great  quantities  of  which  were 
collected  and  dried  during  summer  and  stored  for  the  coming  winter's  provision.  This 
is  a  bulbous  root  much  like  an  onion,  and  is  familiar  to  nearly  every  old  resident  of 
Oregon.  Another  root  called  Ic'ice  or  hace  was  held  in  high  esteem ;  it  w^as  bulbous, 
about  an  inch  long,  of  a  bitterish  taste  like  ginseng.  The  ip-ar  e-pua  or  c-par  root  was 
a  prominent  article  of  diet  and  greAV  abundantly  upon  the  banks  of  the  Rogue  and 
other  rivers.  There  were  several  varieties  of  grass  seeds,  the  huckle-berry,  l)lack-berry, 
salmon-berry,  squaw-berry,  manzanita-berry  and  perha23s  others,  which  entered  into 
the  diet  of  the  Indian  generally,  or  as  governed  by  the  locality  in  which  they  grew. 
At  Klamath  lake  the  pond  lily  grows  in  jirofusion;  and  its  seeds,  called  tro-cm  by  the 
savages,  formed  an  article  of  diet  of  which  thev  were  verv  fond.     The  women,  as  is 


INDIAN  WARS.  1«I 

iuv;irial)ly  the  i-ise  among  the  North  .Vmeric-aii  Indiaiis,  performed  all  thework  of  gather- 
ing these  comestibles  and  of  prejjariug  them  likewise.  The  men  were  not  in  any  de- 
gree an  exception  to  the  general  rnle  of  laziness  and  worthlessness.  Their  only  active 
days  were  when  in  pursuit  of  game  or  their  enemies.  Wars  among  these  Indians 
were  of  frequent  occurrence,  but  were  hardly  ever  long  or  bloody.  The  casu.^ 
bclU  was  usually  lovely  woman.  Wicked  sorceries  inflicted  by  one  people  on  another 
were  also  causes  of  war.  If  one  tribe  obstructed  a  salmon  stream  so  as  to  prevent  their 
neighbors  above  from  obtaining  a  supply  of  food  the  act  often  provoked  war.  No  scalps 
were  taken,  but  the  dead  foeman  was  decapitated — a  fate  meted  out  to  all  male  j^ris- 
oners,  while  the  women  and  children  were  spared  to  be  the  property  of  the  conquerors. 

Their  bows  were  usually  about  three  feet  long,  made  of  yew  or  some  other  tough 
wood  ;  the  back  was  an  inch  and  a  half  in  width  and  was  covered  with  the  sinews  of 
the  deer.  The  arrows  were  about  two  feet  long,  and  occasionally  thirty  inches.  They 
were  made  of  reeds,  were  feathered  and  had  a  tip  of  obsidian,  glass  or  iron.  They 
often  made  their  arrows  in  two  sections,  the  front  one  containing  the  tip  being  short 
and  fastened  by  a  socket  so  contrived  as  to  leave  the  tip  in  a  wounded  animal,  while 
the  longer  and  more  valuable  feathered  section  dropped  upon  the  ground  and  could 
be  found  in  the  fleeing  animal's  trail.  Poisoned  arrows  seem  to  have  been  in  use,  es- 
pecially among  the  ]Modoc^<,  who  used  the  venom  of  the  rattlesnake  for  the  ^^i^irpose. 
They  macerated  the  rL'[)tile's  head  in  a  deer's  liver  which, putrefying,  absorbed  the 
poison  and  assumed  the  virulent  character  itself.  Arrows  dipped  therein  were  regarded 
as  capable  of  producing  death.  There  is  no  record  of  these  poisoned  arrows  having 
been  used  with  fatal  effect  on  a  white  man,  but  there  is  no  good  reason  to  suppose  that 
in  the  absence  of  remedies  a  wound  of  this  sort  would  be  otherwise  than  fatal. 

The  Indian  women  ingeniously  plaited  grass,  tide  or  fine  willow  roots  into  bas- 
kets, mats,  etc.  The  baskets  constructed  for  cooking  purposes  would  retaiii  water  and 
were  even  used  as  kettles  for  boiling  that  fluid.  Stones,  heated  very  hot,  were  thrown 
into  the  vessel,  whereby  heat  was  communicated  to  the  water.  Canoes  were  made  from 
the  trunk  of  a  tree,  hollowed  out  and  shaped  by  means  of  fire.  Pine,  fir  and  Cot- 
tonwood were  the  species  used,  and  the  completed  vessel  was  blunt  at  each  end,  and 
those  made  by  the  Rogue  River  Indians  were  flat-bottomed.  The  tree  having  been 
felled  by  burning  off,  or  being  found  as  a  windfall,  was  burned  off  to  the  required 
length  and  hollowed  out  by  the  same  agency.  Pitch  was  spread  on  the  portion  to  be 
burned  away,  and  u  piece  of  fresh  bark  served  to  prevent  the  flames  from  spreading 
too  far.  These  canoes  were  propelled  by  means  of  paddles.  Such  constructions  of 
course  lacked  the  requisite  lightness  and  grace  of  the  birch-bark  canoes  of  the  far- 
eastern  Indians,  nor  could  they  equal  them  in  speed  or  handiness. 

Canoes,  women,  Aveapons  of  war  and  the  chase,  and  the  skins  of  animals  formed 
the  most  valued  property  of  these  savages,  and  were  articles  of  trade.  W^ealth  was 
estimated  in  strings  of  shell  money  like  the  wampum  of  eastern  aborigines,  but  this 
money  was  here  known  as  aUi-((x-rhick  or  (lU-tiaa-cliiok.  This  cii'culating  medium  was 
a  small  white  shell,  hollow  and  valued  at  from  five  to  twenty  dollars.  Hence  the 
monetary  standard  of  these  savages  was  variable  like  that  of  more  civilized  nations, 
but  was  probably  a  source  of  less  confusion  and  speculation.  White  deer  skins  and 
the  sc;il]is  of  red-headed  wood  peckers  seem   to  have  been   articles  of  great  estimation. 


182  INDIAN  WARS. 

possessing  fictitious  values  depending  upon  the  dictates  of  fashion.  These  articles 
were  the  insignia  of  wealth  and  were  sought  after  by  the  Indians  as  seal-skin  gar- 
ments and  diamonds  are  affected  by  the  higher  classes  of  white  society.  "  Wives,  also, 
as  they  had  to  be  purchased,  were  a  sign  of  wealth,  and  the  owner  of  many  was  thereby 
distinguished  above  his  fellows."  To  be  a  chief  among  the  Klamaths  or  Eogne  Rivers 
pre-supposed  the  possession  of  wealth.  Power  was  not  hereditary,  and  the  chief  who 
became  too  old  to  govern  was  summarily  deposed.  La-lake,  the  peaceable  old  chief 
of  the  former  tribe,  was  compelled  in  his  later  years  to  give  place  to  a  younger  man. 
Each  village  had  a  head  man  who  might  be  styled  chief,  who  held  his  power  in  some 
way  subordinate  to  the  main  tribal  chiefs,  but  whose  actions  in  most  ways  were  not 
regulated  by  the  head  chief.  A  new  settlement  being  formed  a  chief  was  elected  who 
held  his  power  until  deposed  by  his  subjects  or  nntil  death  removed  him.  Frequently 
from  a  multiplicity  of  candidates  for  the  chiefshi^)  two  were  chosen,  who  together  ad- 
ministered the  affiiirs  of  the  tribe,  the  divided  authority  appearing  to  have  been  con- 
sistent with  peace  and  friendliness.  '  One  of  the  two  was  usually  styled  peace  chief,  tha 
other  war  chief.  A  well-known  example  of  this  is  seen  in  Sam  and  Joe,  brothers,  and 
respectively  war  chief  and  peace  chief  of  the  Rogue  Rivers.  However,  it  does  not 
appear  that  the  duties  of  the  two  were  in  any  case  divided,  or  that  the  occurrence  of 
war  necessitated  the  intermission  of  the  peace  chief's  authority.  As  the  case  of  the 
two  chiefs  mentioned,  Joe,  probably  a  more  skillful  warrior,  assumed  the  conduct  of 
warfare  in  1853,  and  possibly  in  1851,  though  the  latter  fact  is  not  fully  ascertained. 

The  Indians  of  Southern  Oregon  and  Northern  California  were  a  filthy  race, 
viewed  from  a  Caucasian  standpoint,  but  probably  did  not  surpass  other  aborigines  in 
that  respect.  Their  habits  of  life  were  such  as  to  render  them  subject  to  parasites  of 
all  sorts,  so  much  so  that  an  Indian  deprived  of  the  presence  of  pi'dlruhix  would  be  an 
anomaly.  "  The  Rogue  Rivers  bathed  daily;  yet  they  brought  out  witli  them  the 
dirt  which  encased  their  bodies  when  they  went  in.  Their  heavy,  long  and  thickly 
matted  hair  afforded  refuge  for  vermin  which  their  art  could  not  remove.  To  destroy 
in  some  measure  this  plague  they  were  in  the  habit  of  burning  their  houses  occasion- 
ally and  rebuilding  with  fresh  materials." 

TheUmpqua  region  and  the  coast  between  the  Siuslaw  and  Coos  bay  were  inhab- 
ited by  the  Umpquas  and  minor  related  tribes.  These  possessed  many  tribal  divisions 
of  which  the  names  have  mostly  perished.  Ultimately  they  belonged  to  the  extensive 
family  called  by  Bancroft  the  Chinooks,  a  division  of  the  Columbians  so-called.  An- 
ciently the  Umpquas  were  a  tribe  of  importance  and  strength,  though  individually  far 
inferior  to  the  Klamath  family.  This  is  true  in  regard  to  physique  and  mental  cpiali- 
ties.  In  stature  the  men  rarely  exceeded  five  and  a  half  feet  nor  the  women  five 
feet.  Both  sexes  were  heavily  and  loosely  built,  and  were  much  deformed  by  their 
squatting  position,  and  had  every  appearance  of  degeneration.  Their  faces  were 
broad  and  round,  their  nostrils  large,  the  mouth  wide  and  thick-lipped,  teeth  irrogulai-, 
countenance  void  of  expression  and  vivacity,  yet  often  regular. 

As  to  clothing,  the  Umpquas  were  not  in  any  way  peculiar.  The  men  wore  no 
covering  in  fair  or  warm  weather,  but  in  severe  seasons  adopted  a  garment  made  of  the 
skins  of  animals.     Females  wore  a  skirt  of  cedar  fibres  fiisteued  around  the  waist  and 


INDIAN  WARS.  183 

liangiiig   to  the  knees.       In   cdld   weatlier  they  wrapped  a  robe  of  sea-otter  or  other 
skins  about  the  body. 

Fish  formed  a  staple  article  of  diet  with  the  Unipquas,  salmon  and  salmon  trout 
being  the  principal  varieties,  which  were,  and  still  are,  abundant  in  the  Umpqua  river 
and  its  tributaries  during  certain  seasons.  The  fish,  being  caught  in  some  approved 
Indian  fashion,  was  roasted  before  fires.  Being  cut  into  convenient  sized  portions,  it 
was  impaled  on  a  pointed  stick,  first  being  stuck  through  with  splinters  to  prevent  it 
from  falling  to  pieces.  Thus  broiled  the  fresh  salmon  or  trout  formed  a  very  welcome 
and  toothsome  addition  to  their  limited  ci(isi)ic. 

In  times  before  the  coming  of  the  whites  the  Rogue  Rivers  and  Shastas  had  fre- 
quent wars  with  the  Umpquas,  but  finally,  through  mutual  interest,  eifected  a  coalition. 
From  this  time  the  power  of  the  latter  tribe  began  to  wane.  In  the  decade  ending  in 
1850,  the  Klickitats,  a  powerful  and  restless  tribe  from  beyond  the  Columbia,  entered 
the  Umpqua  valley,  having  conquered  all  the  Indians  whom  they  met  in  the  Willam- 
ette valley,  and  subjected  the  Umpquas  also  to  defeat.  They  occupied  a  portion  of  the 
latter's  country  and  became  the  dominant  tribe  northward  of  the  Rogue  river  valley. 
The  Klickitats  were  equally  renowned  in  trade  and  war,  and  their  services  were  in  re- 
quest by  the  whites  at  various  times  when  other  tribes  were  to  be  fought.  In  1851 
sixty  Klickitat  warriors,  well  mounted  and  armed,  offered  themselves  to  assist  in  the 
war  against  the  Rogue  Rivers,  but  their  presence  was  not  desired.  Similar  to  these 
were  the  Des  Chutes,  a  small  but  active  tribe,  who,  under  their  chief,  Sem-tes-tis,  made 
expeditious  for  purposes  of  war  or  barter  from  their  homes  east  of  the  Cascades  as  far 
as  Yreka,  where,  in  185-t,  they  assisted  the  whites  against  the  Shastas.  In  some  of 
their  characteristics  the  Klickitats  irresistibly  bring  to  mind  the  early  Jews,  whose  mi- 
grations, success  in  war  and  love  of  barter  form  strong  points  of  resemblance  to  this 
Indian  tribe's  peculiarities.  Some  few  of  the  Klickitats  yet  remain  in  the  eastern  part 
of  Douglas  county,  where  they  own  and  till  farms,  and  are  useful  members  of  that 
community. 

As  regards  the  origin  of  these  tribes,  only  conjecture  is  at  hand.  Xot  enough  is 
known  on  that  topic  to  serve  for  the  foundation  <jf  a  respectable  liypothesis,  although 
the  common  origin  of  all  Xorth  American  tribes  has  been  taken  for  granted.  From  facts 
which  have  come  under  his  notice.  Judge  Rosborough,  formerly  Indian  agent  in 
Northern  California,  is  of  the  opinion  that  there  have  been  three  lines  of  aboriginal 
migration  southward  through  Southern  Oregon  and  Northern  California,  namely  : 
one  by  the  coast,  dispersing  toward  the  interior;  secondly,  that  along  the  Willamette 
valley,  crossing  the  Calapooia  mountains  and  the  Umpqua  and  Rogue  rivers,  Shasta 
and  Scott  valleys ;  the  other  wave  coming  up  the  Des  Chutes  river  and  peopling  the 
vicinity  of  the  lakes.  As  an  evidence  of  the  second  movement  it  is  known  that  all 
the  tril)es  iidiabiting  the  region  referred  to  spoke  the  same  language  and  confederated 
against  their  neighbors,  particularly  the  Pit  river  Indians,  who  arrested  their  course 
in  the  south.  The  traditions  of  the  Shastas  show  they  had  driven  a  tribe  out  of  their 
habitation  and  occupied  it  themselves. 

The  Klamaths  have  been  known  among  tiiemselves  antl  surrounding  tribes  as 
Muck-a-lucks,  Klamaths,  Klamets,  Luuami  (their  own  name),  and  Tlaniath.  The 
Rogue  Rivers,  according  to  various  authorities,  called  themselves  Lo-to-ten,  Tutatamv, 


184  INDIAN  WARS. 

Totiitime,  Tootouui,  Tootooton,  Tutoten,  Tototin,  Tutotutua,  and  Too-toot-ua;  all  of 
which  may  be  regarded  as  the  same  word,  uttered  variously  by  individuals  of  different 
tribes,  and  rejiroduced  in  writing  as  variously.  For  the  purposes  of  this  history  their 
ordinary  designation.  Rogue  Rivers,  will  be  adojrted,  inasmuch  as  they  have  attained  a 
celebrity  under  that  name,  and  as  it  in  consequence  conveys  a  readier  meaning  than 
either  of  the  native  words  the  use  of  which,  in  addition,  carries  a  suspicion  of  pedantry. 
Tribal  designations  among  the  Indians,  it  is  to  be  observed,  were  and  are  exceedingly 
indefinite  and  troublesome  to  the  student.  For  example  :  tribes  of  restricted  numbers 
frequently  call  themselves  by  the  name  of  their  head  chief ;  and  the  tribal  name  is  fre- 
quently used  indifferently  with  that  of  the  chief  The  Klamaths,  for  a  time  called 
themselves,  and  were  called  by  their  white  neighbors  La-lakes.  Their  principal  chief 
also  bore  that  name,  and  by  it  was  known  to  a  large  part  of  the  State.  The  name,  be- 
yond doubt,  is  la-lac — meaning,  in  French,  the  lake,  and  was  applied  by  French  or 
Canadian  travelers  or  trappers,  in  allusion  to  the  great  Klamath  lakes,  upon  whose 
shores  these  people  dwelt.  Adopted  by  the  natives,  this  foreign  word  was  applied  to 
the  tribe  and  to  the  great  peace  chief,  who  became  in  his  day  the  most  eminent  of  his 
race.  The  habit  of  loosely  applying  their  designations  has  made  the  study  of  Indian 
traditions  and  history  very  difficult  indeed,  and  is  probably  the  most  fruitful  source  of 
error  which  presents  itself  in  the  i)ursuit  of  aboriginal  archteology. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 


THE  EARLY  EXPLORERS  ATTACKED. 


Jedediah  S.  Smith's  Journey  Through  Northern  CaUfornia  and  Southern  Oregon-First  Knowledge  of  the  In- 
dians Locality  of  Smith's  Defeat— Turner— Gay— Ewing  Young  Wilkes'  Exploring  Expedition— Fremont's 
Expedition  Across  the  Plains— Attack  by  Modocs  Travel  Through  Southern  Oregon— Indian  Outrages  in 
1850  and   1851. 

It  is  pertinent  to  the  subject  to  introduce  here  the  account  of  Jedediah  S.  Smith's 
remarkable  trip  through  Southern  Oregon,  from  California  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany's settlements  at  Vancouver.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  spirit  of  hostility 
against  the  whites  was  developed  at  the  very  moment  of  the  latter's  first  appearance  in 
the  country  ;  and  we  shall  see  that  this  spirit  of  hostility  was  kept  alive  until  the  In- 
dians' expulsion  from  the  country,  twenty-eight  years  after.  [For  full  details  of  this 
affair  see  pages  118  to  122  of  this  volume.] 

The  evidence  shows  that  Smith  followed  the  coast  line  in  his  first  trip  northward 
to  Cape  Arago,  and  doubtless  he  with  his  two  companions  continued  along  the  coast  as 
far  as  the  Columbia,  for  the  interior  he  could  have  known  nothing  of,  since  even  the 
Hudson's  Bay  peojile  had  not  made  exjilorations  in    that  direction.     ^A'hile  every  one 


IVlRS. Gen. Joseph  Lane 


INDIAN  WARS.  185 

accords  to  Smith  the  disthictiou  of  having  led  the  firi-t  white  mea  into  Southern  Ore- 
gon, there  is  much  left  to  conjecture  in  regard  to  numerous  imi:)ortant  details  of  his 
passage.  The  exact  spot  wliere  his  camji  was  destroyed  by  Indians  is  not  known,  nor 
its  approximate  situation.  Certain  manuscripts  ascribe  an  island  in  [or  near]  the 
Umpqua  as  the  place  of  the  tragedy  ;  while  others  mention  Cape  Arago  as  the  locality  in 
(juestiou.  TJie  fact  that  an  important  tributary  of  the  Umpqua  has  been  named  Smith 
river  does  not  settle  the  question,  while  from  certain  facts  the  presumption  is  in  favor 
of  Cape  Arago.  At  any  rate  the  Umpqua  Indians  (who  are  well  known  to  have  inhab- 
ited the  vicinity  of  the  mouth  of  that  river)  are  characterized  by  an  indisposition  to 
acts  of  violence,  while  the  natives  of  Coos  bay,  and  more  particularly  of  the  Coquille 
country,  achieved  quite  a  reputation  as  murderers  of  stray  parties  of  whites,  as  will 
appear  in  another  part  of  this  book.  These  considerations  render  it  likely  that  Smith's 
2)arty  was  attacked  at  some  point  further  south  than  the  generally  accepted  locality, 
though  the  question — an  interesting  one — deserves  and  should  receive  full  investiga- 
tion. 

Under  such  circumstances  Southern  Oi'egon  began  to  become  known  to  the  world, 
and  for  a  long  series  of  years  remained  unsettled  by  civilized  men,  the  only  objects  of 
the  few  white  persons  who  entered  its  bounds  being  the  jJursuit  of  fur-bearing  animals 
or  else  urged  through  these  dangerous  solitudes  by  the  exigencies  of  travel.  The  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company's  agents  were  quick  to  take  advantage  of  the  information  brought 
by  Smith,  and  jmrties  of  hunters  and  trappers  were  sent  forth  to  systematically  exi^lore 
and  in  some  sense  occupy  the  country.  This  occupation  extended  no  farther  than  the 
construction  of  a  permanent  post  at  the  junction  of  Elk  creek  and  the  Umpqua  river, 
where  Elkton  is  now  situated.  This  post,  called  Fort  Umpqua,  served  as  the  head- 
quarters of  the  company's  employees  throughout  the  section  embracing  the  Umpqua, 
Rogue,  Klamath  and  Upper  Sacramento  rivers. 

In  June,  1836,  as  is  credibly  told,  a  party  of  whites,  including  George  Gay,  well 
known  in  Oregon's  early  history,  Daniel  Millei-,  Edward  Barnes,  Dr.  Bailey,  J.  Turner, 

and  his  squaw, Sanders  and Woodworth,  and  a  man  known  as  Irish  Tom, 

were  attacked  near  the  mouth  of  Foot's  creek  (below  Rock  Point)  on  Rogue  river,  and 
Miller,  Sanders,  Barnes  and  Irish  Tom  were  killed,  while  the  others,  badly  wounded, 
made  their  escape.  As  narrated  by  J.  W.  Nesmith,  in  Transactions  of  Oregon  Pio- 
neers, 1882,  the  circumstances  were  as  follows  :  "  The  party  was  under  the  leadership 
of  Turner  and  was  on  a  trapping  exjiedition.  About  the  middle  of  June  they  were 
encamped  at  the  Point  of  Rocks  [Rock  Point]  on  the  south  bank  of  Rogue  river. 
Several  hundred  Indians  dropped  into  camp,  but  Turner  thinking  there  was  no  dan- 
ger took  no  precautions,  and  the  natives  most  unexpectedly  attacked  the  party  with 
clubs,  bows  and  knives.  They  got  possession  of  tlii'ee  of  the  eight  guns  with  which 
the  whites  were  armed,  and  for  a  time  the  trappers  fought  them  with  fire-brands, 
clubbed  guns  and  whatever  came  handy.  Turner,  a  big  Kentucky  giant,  seized  a  lir 
limb  from  the  fire  and  fought  lustily.  He  released  Gay  who  was  held  down  by  the 
savages,  and  finally  the  assailants  were  driven  from  the  camp.  Dan  Miller  and  another 
trapper  were  killed  on  the  spot,  while  the  six  survivors  were  all  more  or  less  wounded. 
The  latter  took  to  the  brush,  and  without  horses  and  deprived  of  all  the  guns  but  two, 
trav('lc'(l,  lio-liting  Indian-;  bv  day  and  walking  bv  night,  making  tlieir  way  northward. 


186  INDIAN  WAES. 

Dr.  Bailej'  was  wuiiuded  by  a  tomaliawk  blow  which  had  cleft  his  shin.  Sanders' 
wounds  disabled  him  from  traveling,  and  he  was  left  on  the  South  Cmpqua,  while 
"  Big  Tom  "  [Irish  Tom]  was  left  on  the  North  Umpqua.  The'  Indians  reported  to 
Dr.  McLaughlin,  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  that  both  men  soon  died  of  their 
wounds  where  they  were  left.  Turner,  Gay,  Woodworth  and  Dr.  Bailey  ultimately 
reached  the  settlement  on  the  Willamette. 

Two  years  later,  or  in  1837,  a  party  of  Oregonians  proceeded  to  California  to  buy 
cattle  to  drive  to  the  Willamette.  They  secured  a  drove,  and  returning  passed  through 
the  Umpqua  and  Bogue  river  valleys.  The  party  was  composed  in  part  of  Ewing 
Young,  the  leader ;  P.  L.  Edwards,  who  kept  a  diary  of  the  trip  ;  Hawchurst,  Car- 
michael,  Bailey,  Erequette,  DesPau,  B.  Williams,  Tibbetts,  Gay,  Wood,  Camp,  and 
about  eight  others,  all  frontiersmen  of  experience.  While  eucamped  at  the  Klamath, 
on  the  fourteenth  of  September,  1837,  Gay  and  Bailey  shot  an  Indian  who  had  come 
peaceably  into  camp.  This  act  was  in  revenge  for  the  affair  at  Foot's  creek,  but  that 
locality  had  not  by  any  means  been  reached,  and  the  Indians'  crime  of  1835  was  re- 
venged on  an  individual  who,  perhaps,  had  not  heard  of  the  event.  The  act  was  deeply 
resented  by  the  Indians  throughout  the  whole  section,  and  the  party  met  with  the 
greatest  difficulty  in  continuing  their  course.  On  the  seventeenth  of  the  same  month 
they  encamped  at  Foot's  creek,  and  on  the  next  morning  sustained  a  serious  attack  of 
the  savages,  narrated  thus  in  the  diary  of  Edwards : 

September  18. — Moved  about  sunrise.  Indians  were  soon  observed  running  along  the  moun- 
tain on  our  right.  There  could  be  no  doubt  but  that  they  were  intending  to  attack  us  at  some 
difficult  pass.  Our  braves  occasionally  fired  on  them  when  there  was  a  mere  possibility  of  doing 
any  execution.  About  twelve  o'clock,  while  we  were  in  a  stony  and  brushy  pass  between  the  river 
[Rogue  river]  on  our  right,  and  a  mountain  covei-ed  with  wood  on  our  left,  firing  and  yelling  in 
front  announced  an  attack.  Mr.  Young,  apj)rehensive  of  an  attack  at  this  jDass,  had  gone  in  ad- 
vance to  examine  the  brush  and  ravine,  and  returned  without  seeing  Indians.  In  making  further 
search  he  found  them  posted  on  each  side  of  the  road.  After  firing  of  four  guns,  the  forward 
cattle  having  halted,  and  mj'self  having  arrived  with  the  rear,  I  started  forward,  but  orders  met 
me  from  Mr.  Young  that  no  one  should  leave  the  cattle,  he  feeling  able,  with  the  two  or  three  men 
already  with  him,  to  rout  the  Indians.  In  the  struggle  Gay  was  wounded  in  the  back  by  an  arrow. 
Two  arrows  were  shot  into  the  riding  horse  of  Mr.  Young,  while  he  was  snapi^ing  his  gun  at  an 
Indian  not  more  than  ten  yards  off.  To  save  his  horse,  he  had  dismounted  and  beat  him  on  the 
head,  but  he  refused  to  go  off,  and  received  two  arrows,  probably  shot  at  his  master.  Having  an- 
other brushy  place  to  pass,  four  or  five  of  us  went  in  advance,  but  were  not  molested.  Camped  at 
the  spot  where  Turner  and  party  were  attacked  two  years  ago.  Soon  after  the  men  on  day  guard 
said  they  had  seen  three  Indians  in  a  small  grove  about  three  hundred  yards  from  camp.  About 
half  of  the  party  went,  surrounded  the  grove,  some  of  them  fired  into  it,  others  passed  through  it, 
but  could  find  no  Indians.  At  night  all  the  horses  nearly  famished  as  they  were  tied  up.  Night 
set  in  dark,  cloudy  and  threatening  rain,  so  that  the  guard  could  herdly  have  seen  an  Indian  ten 
j)aces  off,  until  the  moon  rose,  about  ten  o'clock.     I  was  on  watch  the  first  half  of  the  night. 

Here  Mr.  Edwards'  diary  breaks  off",  leaving  untold  much  of  interest  to  the  gen- 
eral reader.  As  regards  the  skirmish  at  Foot's  creek,  just  narrated,  there  is  a  doubt 
of  it  were  it  not  succeeded  by  still  more  severe  ones,  inasmuch  as  the  record  of  Wilkes' 
exploring  expedition  suggests  further  calamities  to  Young's  company.  Lieutenant 
Emmons,  U.  S.  N.,  commanded  a  detachment  of  Wilkes'  expedition,  which  left  Van- 
couver for  Yerba  Buena,  in  September,  1841,  J.  D.  Dana,  the  great  scientist,  being  of 
the  party,  as  well  as  Tibbetts,  who  was  with  the  Young  party.     This   man  informed 


INDIAN  WARS.  187 

his  new  associate.s  that  the  Young  expedition  was  defeated  bj'  the  Indians  who  killed 
one  white,  and  wounded  two  others  who  died  when  they  reached  the  Unipqua.  "  He 
showed  great  anxiety  to  take  his  revenge  on  them,  but  no  opportunity  offered,  for  our 
party  had  no  other  difficulty  than  scrambling  up  steep  paths  and  through  thick 
shrubbery." 

In  the  work  just  referred  to  the  natives  about  the  Oregon-California  line  are 
spoken  of  as  "  bad  Indians"  — as  if  that  were  their  common  designation.  Hence,  we 
infer  that  they  had,  even  at  that  date,  acquired  a  sustained  reputation  for  hostility  to 
the  whites.  Such  a  name  does  not  afford  any  chie  to  their  real  character,  however, 
but  only  suggests  a  spirit  of  opposition  to  the  whites  with  whom  they  came  in  contact. 
This  opposition  probably  in  most  cases  took  the  form  of  hostility.  On  other  and  more 
occasions  it  may  not  have  exceeded  that  form  of  independence  known  to  the  early  set- 
tlers as  "  insolence."  This,  be  it  remarked,  was  a  favorite  word  wath  certain  whites 
and  infinitely  recurs  in  the  accounts  of  the  early  contests.  It  is  only  by  the  context 
that  one  can  judge  what  the  expression  really  signifies.  To  characterize  an  Indian  as 
insolent,  in  certain  cases  meant  that  he  was  on  the  point  of  murder ,  at  others  that 
he  had  refused  to  allow  white  men  to  outrage  his  family.  Such  exj^ression  of  inde- 
pendence or  freedom  or  even  of  self-defense  were  all  included  in  the  then  comprehen- 
sive term,  insolence.  Concerning  the  years  preceding  1850  there  is  a  dearth  of 
information,  whence  not  only  are  we  unable  to  array  many  facts,  but  the  power  ot 
drawing  inferences  pertaining  to  what  is  known  is  lost,  whereby  a  discussion  of  the 
aboriginal  character  in  the  light  of  the  earlier  events  is  impossible. 

In  May,  1845,  J.  C.  Fremont,  with  his  exploring  expedition,  arrived  in  South- 
ern Oregon,  having  come  up  the  Sacramento  and  Pit  river  valleys,  and  traveled 
by  Avay  of  Goose,  Clear,  and  Tule  lakes  to  the  west  shore  of  Klamath  lake,  where  he 
camped  for  a  few  days.  His  force  consisted  of  about  fifty  men.  On  the  ninth  of  May, 
Samuel  Neal  and  M.  Sighler  rode  into  camp  with  the  information  that  a  United  States 
officer  was  on  their  trail  with  dispatches,  and  would  fall  a  victim  to  savages  if  not  res- 
cued, the  two  messengers  having  escaped  only  by  the  fleetness  of  their  horses.  Taking 
five  traj)pers,  four  friendly  Indians  and  the  two  messengers,  Fremont  hastened  to  the 
rescue,  and  at  sun-down  met  Lieutenant  Gillespie,  guided  by  Peter  Lassen  and  bearing 
dispatches  from  the  United  States  government  to  Fremont.  The  })lace  of  meeting  was 
sixty  miles  from  Fremont's  camp  on  the  lake,  which  they  had  left  in  the  morning. 
They  camped  that  night  in  the  Modoc  country,  near  Klamath  lake,  and  then  it  was 
that  the  savage  Modocs  committed  the  first  of  the  long  series  of  hostile  acts  which  have 
marked  their  dealings  with  the  whites.  Exhausted  as  they  were,  the  men  lay  down  to 
sleep  without  setting  a  guard.  The  Modocs  were  not  slow  to  take  advantage  of  the 
opportunity.  Late  in  the  night,  the  watchful  Kit  Carson  heard  a  dull,  heavy  thud  as 
of  a  falling  blow,  and  called  to  Basil  La  Jeunesse,  who  was  sleeping  on  the  other  side 
of  the  camp-fire,  to  know  what  was  the  matter.  Getting  no  answer,  and  seeing  moving 
figures  he  cried,  "Indians,  Indians!"  and  seized  his  rifle.  Quickly,  the  tra])pers,  Lucian 
Maxwell,  Richard  Owens,  Alex.  Godey  and  Steppenfelt,  with  Carson  rushed  to  the  aid 
of  the  man  attacked.  The  Indian  chief  was  killed  and  his  followers  fled,  but  La  Jeunesse, 
Denne,  an  Iroquois  and  Crain,  a  Delaware,  were  dead.  This  camp  was  on  Hot  creek, 
in  Siskivou  eountv,  California. 


188  INDIAN  WAES. 

Au  examination  of  the  trail  in  the  morning  showed  that  the  attacking  party  nnm- 
bered  about  twenty,  and  Lieutenant  Gillespie  recognized  the  dead  chief  as  an  Indian 
who  had  on  the  preceding  morning  given  him  a  fine  fish,  the  first  food  he  had  tasted 
for  forty  hours.  On  the  eleventh  of  May  Fremont  left  his  main  camp  and  started  for 
California,  to  begin  the  war  of  independence  which  resulted  in  its  conquest  by  the 
United  States.  A  detachment  of  about  fifteen  men  was  left  at  the  scene  of  the  mid- 
night attack  to  punish  the  perpetrators  should  they  return  to  it.  Two  Modocs  were 
killed  and  scalped  there,  and  the  men  rejoined  the  main  party.  Ten  men  of  the 
advance  guard,  under  Kit  Carson,  came  suddenly  upon  an  Indian  village  on  the  east 
bank  of  Klamath  lake,  and  charged  into  it  at  once,  killing  many  braves  and  burning 
the  rancheria,  but  sparing  the  women  and  children.  Years  afterward  a  Modoc  chief 
related  these  occurrences  to  Lindsay  Applegate,  and  in  response  to  questions,  said  the 
Indians  made  the  attack  on  Fremont  because  these  were  the  first  white  men  who  came 
into  the  country,  and  they  wanted  to  kill  them  to  deter  others  from  coming. 

Even  prior  to  the  Fremont  explorations  considerable  migration  to  and  from  Cali- 
fornia began  to  take  place  through  Southern  Oregon.  As  yet  there  were  few  people 
settled  south  of  the  Willamette  valley,  whence  came  the  greater  number  of  the  trav- 
elers, and  the  route  was  a  very  dangerous  and  difficult  one.  Time  and  distance  had 
even  magnified  the  sufficiently  dangerous  character  of  the  Indians,  and  it  required  a 
considerable  degree  of  daring  to  venture  upon  the  journey.  However,  no  dangers 
could  have  daunted  such  travelers  as  in  1848-9-50  set  out  for  California,  intent  upon 
mining,  although  their  passage  through  this  region  was  usually  attended  with  fighting 
and  many  times  with  loss  of  life.  Tradition  relates  the  murders  of  several  men  near 
Foot's  creek  and  the  robbery  of  their  camp  wherein  was  gold  to  the  value  of  many 
thousand  dollars  ;  but  the  time,  place  and  names  are  inextricably  confused.  Of  course 
all  travelers  went  heavily  armed,  and  as  far  as  possible  in  strong  numbers.  J.  W. 
Nesmith  in  a  letter  to  the  compiler  of  this  account,  says  :  "  I  first  saw  Southern 
Oregon  in  1848,  when,  with  thirty-two  companions,  I  set  out  from  Polk  county  to  go 
through  to  California.  The  Indians  were  all  hostile  from  the  Umpqua  mountains  to 
the  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  and  there  was  not  a  day  during  our  march  between 
these  two  points  that  we  did  not  exchange  shots  with  them,  though  we  had  no  engage- 
ment with  them  that  could  be  called  a  battle." 

In  August,  1850,  two  j^ackers,  Cushing  and  Prink,  were  killed  on  the  banks  of 
the  Klamath  river  near  where  the  ferry  was  afterwards  established.  Their  train  was 
taken  and  their  cargo  destroyed  by  Shasta  Indians. 

In  January,  1851,  a  conflict  occurred  at  Blackburn's  ferry  on  the  Klamath,  in 
which  James  Sloan,  Jenalshan  and  Bender  were  killed  by  savages  presumably  Klam- 
aths.  Blackburn  and  his  wife  defended  their  house  until  help  arrived  and  the  Indians 
fled.  On  examining  the  neighborhood  of  the  ferry,  the  body  of  Blackburn's  lather 
was  most  unexpectedly  found,  he  having  come  in  the  evening  to  visit  his  son  whom  he 
had  not  seen  for  years,  and  met  his  death  almost  at  the  threshold,  at  the  hands  of  the 
besiegers.  Some  two  weeks  later  a  party  of  white  men  from  the  ferry  went  in  pursuit 
of  the  hostiles  and  shot  two  Indians,  one,  a  squaw,  being  killed  by  mistake  while  in  a 
canoe.  The  same  party,  being  in  the  vicinity  of  Happy  Camp,  attacked  a  rancheria  of 
Eurocs  (down-river  Klamaths)  and  killed  everv  male  inhabitant  and  two  females.     One 


* 


INDIAN  WARS.  18i> 

of  the  uttacking  party  was  killed.  This  action  is  called  the  Lowden's  ferry  fight. 
During  the  following  May,  four  miners  were  killed  on  Grave  creek  and  Rogue  river, 
whose  names  are  unknown.  Mosin  and  McKee  (otherwise  called  Reaves)  were  at 
about  the  same  date  killed  on  the  Klamath. 


r 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

EFFECT  OF  WHITE  IMMIGRATION. 

Coming  of  the  Whites -General  Wane  and  the  Shastas -Divisions  of  the  Shastas— Their  Chiefs  -  Rogue  River 
Indians  -Applegate  John— Limpy,  George  and  their  Bands-Table  Rock  Band  -Sam  and  Joe— Census  of 
Indians  Diminution  of  the  Indians— Reflection  on  their  Condition— Sentiment  of  the  Whites— Discussion  on 
the  Causes  of  the  Wars. 

The  events  narrated  in  the  last  chapter  mainly  occurred  prior  to  the  settlement  of 
Southern  Oregon,  which  we  may  conveniently  date  from  tlie  spring  of  1851.  We  now 
come  to  consider  occurrences  which  took  place  during  the  following  years,  when  the 
country  was  being  rapidly  peopled,  in  consequence  partly  of  the  discovery  of  gold 
placers  in  the  Rogue  river  country,  and  where  a  state  of  feverish  excitement  existed, 
consequent  upon  the  rapid  growth  of  population  and  other  serious  causes.  It  was  in 
the  spring  of  1851  that  these  gold  discoveries  took  place  whose  repeated  occurrence 
attracted  thousands  to  these  valleys.  The  news  of  the  first  "  find  "  drew  other  pros- 
l)ectors  who,  advancing  into  the  previously  untrodden  wilds,  speedily  found  other  rich 
deposits,  and  so  within  a  few  short  months  it  was  learned  that  the  precious  metal 
existed  on  the  banks  of  innumerable  streams  draining  extensive  regions.  At  the  same 
time  numerous  discoveries  were  being  made  in  Northern  California,  and  a  constant 
succession  of  travelers  passed  north  and  south  on  the  way  to  the  Sacramento  and 
Shasta  valleys,  or  homeward  to  the  AMllamette  with  a  filled  purse,  or  perhaps  with 
defeated  hopes  and  an  empty  pocket.  The  mines  about  Yreka  were  being  worked, 
and  a  busy  swarm  of  men,  estimated  by  some  at  above  2,000,  were  digging  for  gold. 
Adventurous  prospectors  had  spread  themselves  over  a  vast  region,  and  toward  every 
point  of  the  compass.  x^ll  the  affluents  of  the  Sacramento,  Shasta,  Trinity,  Scott, 
Pit,  Rogue  and  Ump(][ua  were  infested  by  busy  men  with  j^ick  and  jjan,  and  the  aurif- 
erous wealth  of  the  country  speedily  became  known.  In  June  of  1850,  Dollarhide 
and  pai'ty  discovered  the  Scott  river  placers,  but  abandoned  them  from  fear  of  the  In- 
dians and  from  other  causes.  Soon  after  came  Scott  and  party  who  made  additional 
discoveries,  the  news  of  which  was  speedily  circulated,  bringing  many  miners  to  the 
spot.  General  Joseph  Lane  arrived  on  the  headwaters  of  the  river  in  February,  1851, 
and  set  about  gold  digging  in  company  with  his  own  party  of  Oregonians.  By  the 
tacit  consent  of  whites  and  natives  alike   (but  as  some  have  said  l)y  the  intercession  of 


190  INDIAN  WARS. 

Chief  Tolo)  the  general  became  a  sort  of  mediator  iu  their  diftereiifes ;  and  kept  both 
parties  in  harmony  throughout  his  stay  on  the  river.  The  Indians  of  that  vicinity, 
belonging  to  the  Shasta  tribe,  were  very  numerous,  but  were  divided  into  several  bands. 
They  occupied  Shasta  and  Scott  valleys,  and  the  banks  of  the  Klamath  river  adjacent. 
They  had  been  separated  from  the  Rogue  Rivers  only  recently,  owing  to  the  death  oi 
their  principal  chief.  There  is  no  doubt  that  these  two  tribes  were  one  and  undivided 
previously,  but  now  thej  were  broken  up  and  formed  several  communities,  each  with 
its  own  chief.  At  Yreka  old  Tolo  was  chief,  an  always  firm  friend  and  ally  of  the 
whites  ;  in  Scott  valley  Tyee  John,  a  son  of  the  deceased  head  chief,  was  supreme  ; 
in  Shasta  valley,  Tyee  Jim ;  on  the  Klamath,  Tyee  Bill ;  on  the  Siskiyou  mountains 
and  about  the  head  of  the  Applegate,  Tipsu  (commonly  called  Tipsie)  Tyee  (bearded 
or  hairy  chief).  On  Rogue  river  were  gathered  the  Indians  who  bore  that  name,  num- 
bering, according  to  the  best  evidence,  about  600  souls.  They  were  broken  up  into 
tribal  communities  of  greater  or  less  importance,  and,  as  before  remarked,  all  owed  a 
quasi  allegiance  to  Joe  and  Sam,  chiefs  of  the  Table  Rock  band,  the  main  division  oi 
the  tribe.  On  Applegate  creek  dwelt  Chief  John,  a  redoubtable  warrior  who  properly 
fills  more  space  in  history  than  any  other  Oregon  Indian,  excepting,  perhaps, 
Kam-a-i-a-kun,  the  celebrated  warrior  of  the  Yakimas,  and  Peo-peo-mux-mux,  the 
great  chief  of  the  AValla  Wallas.  John's  clan,  the  Ech-ka-taw-a,  was  numerically 
small ;  not  more  than  fifty  braves  followed  him  to  war,  but  these,  under  such  a 
leader,  more  than  made  u})  for  lack  of  numbers,  by  courage,  strategy,  and  indomitable 
perseverance.  We  shall  have  much  to  say  of  this  wily  and  sagacious  chief,  when  treat- 
ing of  the  events  of  the  war  of  1855-56.  Another  prominent  Indian  was  Limpy, 
— so  called  by  the  whites — who  was  of  the  Haw-quo-e-hav-took,  a  rather  more  numer- 
ous band,  dwelling  in  the  region  drained  by  the  Illinois  river.  His  character  was  well 
known  to  the  whites,  by  reason  of  his  taking  part  in  hostilities  against  them  on  all 
possible  occasions.  The  acts  of  Limpy  and  John  have  become  in  a  great  measure  con- 
founded in  most  people's  recollections,  and  to  the  Illinois  Indians  are  attributed  many 
acts  and  exploits  of  which  the  blame  or  credit  should  be  given  to  the  Applegate  band. 
George,  another  and  less  prominent  sub-chief,  dwelt  upon  the  Rogue  river  below  Yan- 
noy's  ferry.  His  people  united  on  occasion  with  those  of  Limpy,  and  together  made 
up  an  active  and  dangerous  force. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Table  Rock  dwelt  the  sub-tribe  of  Indians  previously  alluded 
to  as  the  baud  of  Sam  and  Joe,  which  will  be  further  referred  to  under  the  name  ot 
the  Table  Rock  band.  Their  home  was  upon  the  banks  of  the  Rogue  river,  and  in 
the  midst  of  a  pleasant  country,  fruitful  in  game,  roots,  seeds  and  acorns,  while  in  the 
river,  at  the  proper  season,  salmon  swarmed  by  the  thousand.  They  derived  an  easy 
and  abundant  living  from  the  advantageous  surroundings  and  were  the  dominant  band 
of  the  tribe.  Their  number  probably  reached  at  one  time  500  souls  ;  but  in  addition 
quite  a  number  of  Indians  of  other  tribes  were  settled  within  the  valley  and  through 
some  consideration  of  Indian  polity,  gave  their  adhesion  to  the  Table  Rock  chiefs  and 
were  in  efifect  a  part  of  their  people.  This  band  was  ever  regarded  with  jealousy  by 
the  whites  until  their  removal  to  a  distant  reservation  in  1856  ;  but  with  little  cause, 
as  will  be  shown  in  the  following  pages.  We  shall  have  occasion  to  set  forth  the  com- 
j)arative  superiority  of  this  particular  band  and  of  their  chiefs  in  matters  of  civility. 


INDIAN  WARS.  191 

good  faith,  and  regard  tbr  their  engagements.  The  people  of  Jackson  county  still 
have  lively  memories  of  many  of  these  Indians,  particulaidj'-  of  the  two  chiefs.  They 
tell  that  the  twain  were  tall  and  stately  men,  Sam  somewhat  portly,  the  other  of  a  more 
slender  build,  but  alike  in  having  massive  heads  and  relatively  intellectual  foreheads. 
In  the  late  years  of  their  stay  at  Table  Rock  they  dressed  in  "  Boston  "  style,  wearing 
tall  hats,  etc.  Their  manners  were  said  not  to  be  inferior  to  those  of  the  ordinary 
miner  or  farmer.  These  comparatively  intelligent  and  teachable  Indians  wielded  a 
great  influence  among  the  surrounding  tribes  at  a  time  when  the  utmost  revengeful 
feelings  had  been  excited  against  the  whites.  The  Indian  name  of  Joe  was  Aps-er- 
ka-ha,  as  is  discovered  on  perusing  the  text  of  the  Table  Rock  treaty  of  1853,  and 
from  the  same  source  we  learn  that  Sam's  name  was  To-gun-he-a  ;  and  a  less  impor- 
tant chief  named  by  the  whites  Jim,  was  in  Too-too-tenni  (the  Rogue  River  language) 
called  Aua-cha-ara.  As  the  before-mentioned  chiefs  were  the  most  prominent  actors 
on  the  part  of  the  Indians  in  the  ensuing  wars,  further  mention  of  them  is  deferred  to 
its  appropriate  place. 

In  1854  a  census  was  taken  of  the  entire  inhal)itants  of  the  ujiper  portion  of 
Rogue  river  valley,  from  which  the  following  figures  are  extracted.  The  Indians  were 
in  this  enumeration  divided  into  two  classes — those  who  accepted  the  provisions  of  the 
Lane  treaty  of  1853,  and  the  outside  or  non-reservation  Indians.  Of  the  former  the 
Table  Rock  band  numbered  seventy-six  persons ;  John's  band,  fifty-three  ;  the  com- 
bined peoj^le  of  George  and  Limpy,  eighty-one  ;  making  a  total  of  307  Indians  of 
both  sexes  and  all  ages,  gathered  upon  the  reservation  at  Table  Rock.  Of  these,  108 
were  men.  The  non-treaty  Indians  comprised  Elijah's  band  of  ninety-four  ;  the  "Old 
Applegates"  (probably  Tepsu  Tyee's  people),  numbering  thirty-nine;  Taylor's  band 
and  the  Indians  of  Jump-oflf-Joe  creek,  sixty  strong ;  and  forty-seven  remaining  on 
the  Illinois  river;  total,  240;  of  whom  seventy-two  were  men.  Thus  the  total  In- 
dian population  of  the  upper  portion  of  the  Rogue  river  country  was  547 — a  number 
that  will  seem  disproportionately  small  to  those  who  are  in  any  degree  familiar  with 
the  history  of  their  actions.  To  this  estimate  Agent  Culver  added  twenty-five  per 
cent.,  as  representing  the  number  of  alien  or  foreign  Indians  who  might  be  found  at 
any  time  with  or  near  the  bands  named.  There  is  reason  to  belie^^e  that  the  stranger 
Indians  at  times  exceeded  this  large  estimate,  especially  in  time  of  hostilities. 

The  best  evidence  exists  to  show  that  the  Indian  i)opulation  of  the  valley  suf- 
fered very  serious  diminution  between  the  years  1854  and  1855.  What  the  extent  of 
this  decrease  was,  or  how  long  its  causes  had  been  in  operation  is  not  ascertainable.  It 
is  a  very  common  expression  with  the  earlier  white  settlers  that  the  Indians  were  much 
more  numerous  at  first.  Agent  Culver  remarked  that  the  loss  to  the  "  treaty  Indians" 
collected  at  Table  Rock  reservation,  amounted  during  the  fir,<<f  twelve  months  to  not 
less  than  one-fourth  of  their  whole  number.  Among  the  several  strong  bands  of 
Indians  resident  in  the  Grave  creek.  Wolf  creek  and  Jump-off-Joe  region,  the  mor- 
tality was  still  greater ;  and  those  intractable  bands,  dangerous  enemies  of  the  whites 
(they  spoke  the  Ump(|ua  language  btit  were  not  of  that  blood),  were  nearlv  blotted 
out  of  existence. 

This  theory  of  the  diminution  of  the  Indians  will  help  to  exj)lain  the  apparently 
monstrous  exa"oerations  of  those  who  first  Imttled  with  the  Rogue   Rivers — an    exae- 


192  INDIAN  WARS. 

geration  inexplicable  on  any  other  hypothesis.  Thus,  Major  Kearney,  writing  to  his 
superior  officers  concerning  an  engagement,  professes  to  have  been  opiDOsed  by  from 
300  to  500  Indians.  Many  such  statements  might  be  adduced,  which  with  the  above 
theory  are  mutually  supporting,  though  they  do  not  rest  on  the  same  class  of  evidence 
by  any  means. 

The  iwsition  in  which  these  Indians  found  themselves  at  the  era  of  the   rapid 
influx  of  white  men  was  anomalous.     They  were  suddenly  surrounded  by   a  white 
population  largely  exceeding  their  own  numbers,  engaged  in  the  pursuit  of  gold.     Nor 
was  this  white  population  of  a  character  to  enable  the  Indians  to  remain  in  quiet. 
Ordinary  observation  speaks  loudly  to  the  contrary.  Says  J.  Eoss  Browne,  "The  earliest 
comers  were  a  wild,  reckless  and  daring  race  of   men,  trappers  and  hunters,  whose 
intercourse  with  the  Indians  was  not  calculated  to  aflFord  them  a  high  opinion  of  Ameri- 
cans as  a  people."     These  remarks  were  intended  to  apply  to  the  travelers  who  came 
prior  to  the  discovery  of  gold.     With  a  slight  modification  they  will  apply  perfectly  to 
a  very  large  number  of  subsequent  arrivals.     Concerning  the  character  of  the  general 
white  population  in  1851-6,  nothing  need  be  said.     Men  of  all  ranks  in  life  and  of  all 
conceivable  characters  were  there.     There  is  no  occasion  to  go  into  raptures  over  the 
generosity,  magnanimity  and  bravery  of  the   better  sort,  nor  to  enter   upon  a   long 
description  of  the  vices  of  the  worse.     Good  men  were  there  and  bad.     The  same 
vicious  qualities  which  characterized  the  ruffian  in  more  settled  communities  marked 
his  career  in  this,  except  that  circumstances  may  have  given  him  a  better  chance  here 
to  display  himself.     "A  majority  of  white  persons  came  to  the  country  with  kind  feel- 
ings for  the  Indians  and  not  wishing  to  injure  them;  but  there  also  came  many  having 
opposite  sentiments."     This  sentence  sets  forth  the  condition  of  affairs  as  forcibly  as  ir 
it  were  expanded  into  a  volume.     A  portion  were  ready  to  do  the  Indian  harm,  and 
circumstances  never  could  have  been  more  favorable  to  their  malice.     Law  and  justice 
were  not;  and  whenever  and  wherever  a  white  man's  lust  or  love  of  violence  led  him 
then  and  there  an  outrage  was  perpetrated.     Public  sentiment  to-day  admits  the  truth 
of  the  strongest  general  charges  of  this  nature;  and  the  venerable  pioneer  tottering  per- 
haps on  the  edge  of  the  grave  says  sadly — "  The  Indians  suffered  many  a  grievous 
wrong  at  our  hands ;  unmentionable  wrongs,  they  were,  of  which  no  man  shall  ever 
bear  more."    Because  these  Indians  were  poor,  because  they  were  ignorant,  and  because 
they  were  aliens,  society  frowned  on  them,  justice  ignored  them,  the  United  States  gov- 
ernment neglected  to  protect  them  and  they  were  left  a  prey  to  the  worst  passions   of 
the  worst  of  men.     To  again  quote,  "Miscreants,  regardless  of  sex  or  age,  slaughter 
poor,  weak,  defenceless  Indians  with  impunity.     There  are  no  means  for  agents   to 
prevent  it  or  punish  it.     There  are  many  well-disposed  persons,  but  they  are    silent 
through  fear  or  some  other  cause,"  etc.     These  are  the  words  of  Joel  Palmer,  superin- 
tendent of  Indian  affairs  for  Oregon.     In   continuation  of  the  subject,  J.  L.  Parrish, 
Indian  agent  at  Port  Orford,  said:    "Many  of  the  Indians  have  been  killed  merely  on 
suspicion  that  they  would  rise  and  avenge  their  own  wrongs,  or  for  petty  threats  that 
have  been  made  against  lawless  white  men  for  debauching  their  women;  and  I  believe 
in  no  single  instance  have  the  Indians  been  aggressors."     The  Oregon  Skitesman,  of 
September  27,  1853,  contained  this  language,  which  is  all  the  more  striking  as  being 
published  at  a  time  when  to  utter  a  word  in  favor  of  the  Indians  was  to  court  unpopu- 


INDIAN  WARS.  ^  193 

lurity:  "8oin(.'  of  the  whites  are  i-eckless  and  imprudent  men,  who  expected  passive 
submission  from  the  natives  under  any  treatment,  while  the  latter  have  never  had  any 
correct  idea  of  the  policy  of  our  government  in  relation  to  their  race,  and  consequently 
regard  all  whites  as  lawless  intruders  endeavoring  to  despoil  them." 

It  is  useless  to  multiply  incidents  and  quotations  with  the  single  view  of  showing 
the  immediate  cause  of  the  Indian  wars.  Those  who  wish  to  investigate  more  fully  the 
subject  of  outrages  by  whites  on  Indians  will  do  well  to  consult  the  various  govern- 
mental reports  of  the  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs,  and  other  like  publications;  but 
let  it  be  taken  for  granted  at  once  that  the  newspapers  will  afford  no  evidence  of  the 
kind  sought.  Nor  should  the  evidence  of  the  regular  army  or  other  government 
officers  be  accepted  as  conclusive.  There  is  as  much  of  prejudice  and  downright 
untruthfulness  in  certain  official  reports  on  the  conduct  of  the  Indian  wars  of  Southern 
Oregon  as  could  well  be  found  in  any  newspaper.  We  behold,  at  the  close  of  the  final 
hostilities  with  the  Indians  (war  of  1855-6),  the  inglorious  spectacle  of  a  renowned 
general  engaged  in  a  wordy  and  abusively  personal  contest  with  certain  civilians, 
respecting  the  comparative  merit  of  the  regulars  and  the  volunteers  in  bringing  the 
war  to  a  close.  This  unseemly  quarrel  between  General  Wool  and  the  citizens  of 
Oregon  and  Washington  territories  hinged  upon  the  very  least  of  all  the  results  of 
those  memorable  months  of  fighting,  yet  these  wordy  hostilities  continued  throughout 
many  years,  and  their  echoes  are  hardly  yet  died  away.  To  burden  history  with  grave 
discussions  of  such  matters  is  not  at  all  the  intention  of  the  present  writer;  and  those  who 
would  inform  themselves  upon  the  subject  matter  of  the  Wool-Curry -Stevens  dispute, 
should  seek  it  in  the  files  of  the  newspapers  of  the  date  of  1856  and  subsequently. 

To  subserve  some  hidden  political  or  pecuniary  purpose,  the  legislature  of  Oregon 
once  procured  the  publication  of  a  list  of  persons  murdered  by  Indians  prior  to  1858. 
That  this  list  was  inaccurate,  incomplete  and  unreliable,  did  not  affect  the  purjjose 
of  its  publication.  It  probably  assisted  in  carrying  the  measure  as  intended,  and  thus 
far  was  of  use.  But  that  publication  has  done  more  to  create  unjust  and  erroneous 
impressions  regarding  the  Indian  wars  than  aught  else.  All  the  newspaper  pathos 
concerning  the  blood  of  our  slaughtered  friends,  all  the  speeches  of  demagogues  trying 
to  make  political  capital  by  playing  upon  men's  vanity,  never  could  have  appealed  to 
the  feelings  as  does  that  simple  list,  containing,  without  circumstance,  the  names  of 
perhaps  200  persons  killed  within  the  boundaries  of  Oregon.  It  is  a  pity  that  for 
purposes  of  comparison  we  have  not  a  similar  list  giving  the  names  of  Indians  who, 
have  been  murdered  by  white  men.     The  total  would  be  at  least  convincing. 

Keturning  to  our  subject  of  the  immediate  causes  of  the  wars,  we  find  ourselves 
under  the  necessity  of  quoting  from  the  words  of  General  Sam  Houston  :  "The  out- 
breaks of  Indians  are  always  preceded  by  greater  outrages  on  the  part  of  the  whites." 
There  was  a  very  peculiar  yet  probably  common  class  of  outrage?  inflicted  on  the 
Indians  that  seem  more  particularly  to  illustrate  the  words  of  the  venerable  speaker. 
These  outrages  were  upon  women;  and  although  we  cannot  suppose  that  the  savage 
heart  was  capaljle  of  feeling  all  the  severe  emotions  which  under  such  circumstances 
would  agitate  the  breast  of  a  white  man  so  wronged  in  the  person  of  his  wife,  still  there 
is  no  reason  to  doubt  the  gravity  of  such  a  matter  to  them.  It  may  well  be  taken  for 
granted  that  such  outrages  were    of   not  uncommon  occurrence.     The  debauchery  of 


194  INDIAN  WAES. 

the  Indian  women  was  an  accompanj^ing  circumstance,  ana  donbtless  the  two  neai'ly 
identical  facts  had  an  important  bearing  on  the  relation  of  the  races. 

The  scheme  upon  which  the  writer  will  endeavor  to  arrange  the  evidence  bearing 
on  this  topic  divides  such  evidence  into — first,  that  bearing  upon  the  tone  of  public 
sentiment  during  the  years  of  hostilities ;  second,  the  remarkable  change  in  public 
opinion  during  the  subsequent  years ;  third,  the  opinions  of  intelligent  and  reliable 
living  actors  in  the  wars ;  fourth,  contemporary  evidence  contained  in  newspapers, 
manuscripts,  etc.;  fifth,  the  unjust  terrorism  of  opponents  of  the  war.  The  ordinary, 
or  what  may  be  termed  the  patriotic,  view  of  the  cause,  remote  and  immediate,  of  the 
war,  rests  upon  opinion  only,  and  presents  no  stronger  grounds  than — first,  the  public 
consension  of  opinion  of  the  Indian  character ;  second,  traditions  concerning  the  facts 
of  the  war ;  and  third,  one-sided  newspaper  reports. 

Having  suggested  the  most  important  immediate  causes  of  the  war,  let  us  imagine 
that  these  causes  have  produced  their  inevitable  effects,  and  that  open  hostilities  exist. 
In  such  a  case  it  is  manifest  that  the  ignoble  causes  would  sink  from  sight,  while  pub- 
lic attention  would  become  engrossed  by  the  more  important  actual  condition  of  affairs; 
and  practical  measures  rather  than  theoretical  speculation  would  be  the  order  of  the 
day.  The  varying  feelings  of  all  white  inhabitants  would  become  merged  in  a  desire 
to  speedily  conquer,  and  230ssibly  to  exterminate  their  enemies.  These  would  be  the 
inevitable  results,  and  we  might  expect  those  who  previously  had  been  the  most  con- 
servative and  sympathetic  to  manifest  the  greatest  vigor  and  enthusiasm  on  attacking 
the  savages.  The  jjopulation  then,  we  have  abundant  reason  for  saying,  would  become 
unanimous  upon  the  breaking  out  of  an  Indian  war.  There  would  have  existed  a 
constant  though  indefinite  dread  of  Indian  retaliation  among  nearly  all  classes,  and 
this  feeling  would  have  assumed  a  more  serious  import  to  men  of  family  and  to  those 
who  inhabited  exposed  places.  By  degrees  this  wearing  annoyance  would  have  become 
intensified,  and  the  habit  of  expecting  evil  would  have  become,  in  the  less  steadfast 
minds,  actually  insupportable.  The  feeling  then,  we  are  assured,  would  have  merged 
into  one  of  deadly  hostility  towards  Indians  in  general.  It  is  difficult  for  us,  in  the 
calmness  of  every-day  life,  to  conceive  the  feverish  intensity  of  excitement  to  which 
man  may  be  wrought,  when  the  animal  energies  of  his  nature  converge  to  a  point,  and 
the  buoyancy  of  strength  and  courage  reciprocates  the  influences  of  anxiety  and  solic- 
itude. We  shall  see  the  bearing  of  these  remarks  in  treating  of  the  beginning  of  the 
war  of  1855-6,  where  they  apply  with  distinguished  force  to  the  noted  lAipton  case. 
Thus  we  may  believe  it  was  less  the  actual  Indian  outrages  that  inspired  the  whites  to 
violence  than  the  soul-harrowing  expectation  of  them.  In  corroboration  of  these  views 
we  find  S.  H.  Culver,  Indian  agent  at  Table  Kock,  expressing  himself  as  follows : 
"The  feeling  of  hostility  displayed  by  both  j^ai'ties  would  be  almost  impossible  to 
realize  except  by  personal  observation.  Worthy  men  of  standing  entertained  senti- 
ments of  bitter  hostility  entirely  at  variance  with  their  general  disposition." 

The  consideration  of  the  causes  of  an  Indian  war  divides  itself  naturally,  as  has 
been  inferred,  into  two  parts,  namely:  The  immediate  cause  or  causes,  and  the  remote 
cause.  Of  the  two,  the  latter  is,  from  its  generality,  incomparably  the  more  interesting 
and  important,  but  its  discussion  leads  ultimately  to  a  train  of  jjhilosophical  specula- 
tions not  in  consonance  with  ordinary  conceptions  of  history,  and  of  interest  to  a  very 


INDIAN  WARS.  195 

slight  proportion  of"  readers.  The  student  of  American  history,  casting  his  eyes  upon 
the  records  of  the  settlement  of  this  land,  observes  the  multifarious  accounts  of  Indian 
wars,  and  remarking  their  similarity  in  cause  and  effect,  instinctively  assigns  them  to  a 
single  primary  cause,  sufficiently  comprehensive  and  effective  to  have  produced  them.  It 
would  be  unphilosophical  to  ascribe  the  cause  of  these  innumerable  yet  similar  wars  to 
the  isolated  acts  of  individuals,  although  we  may  credit  the  latter  with  their  immediate 
production.  The  primary  cause,  says  one,  is  the  progress  of  civilization,  to  which  the 
Irulians  are  normally  opposed.  As  otherwise  stated,  the  cause  is  the  result  of  immi- 
gration and  settlement,  which  are  also  in  opposition  to  the  wish  of  the  Indians.  Another 
authority  states  it  thus:  "The  encroachments  of  a  superior  upon  an  inferior  race." 
These  three  propositions  appear  to  set  forth  three  diflPerent  consequences  of  a  universal 
truth,  but  by  no  means  the  primary  truth  itself  Probably  the  fundamental  reason 
could  be  found  in  race  differences,  or  still  more  likely  in  some  psychological  jirinciple 
akin  to  that  by  which  men  are  led  to  inflict  death  by  preference  upon  the  wilder  animals, 
manifesting  less  hostility  as  species  prove  more  tameable.  Races  are  antagonized 
though  mere  facial  differences  ;  and  prol^ably  the  principle,  however  it  should  be  stated, 
enters  into  the  actions  and  prejudices  of  even  the  most  civilized  and  tolerant  nations  to 
an  unsuspected  extent. 

Finally,  if  we  sum  up  the  opinions  brought  out  by  close  study  of  all  the  phases  of 
the  question  as  to  the  origin  of  the  war,  it  seems  an  unavoidable  result  of  the  analogy 
of  the  various  Indian  wars,  that  hostilities  in  Southern  Oregon  were  unavoidable  under 
any  circumstances  attainable  at  the  time,  inasmuch  as  there  existed  no  Quaker  colony 
headed  by  a  William  Penn,  to  peacefully  and  wisely  uphold  law  and  order.  Second, 
the  immediate  causes  of  the  wars  were  due  to  the  bad  conduct  of  both  parties,  but  were 
chiefly  caused  by  the  injudicious  and  unjust  acts  of  reckless  or  lawless  and  treacherous 
white  men.  After  a  careful  examination  of  the  following  pages,  the  unprejudiced 
reader  will  probably  acknowledge  that  these  conclusions  are  stated  in  singularly 
moderate  and  dispassionate  language. 


CHAPTER    XXIIL 

FIRST    CAMPAIGN    AGAINST    THE   INDIANS. 

Murder  of  Dilley— Other  attacks— Arrival  of  Government  Troops  -Battle  with  the  Indians— Death  of  Captain 
Stewart — His  Character—General  Lane  Arrives — Further  Operations— The  Indians  Chastised  Governor 
Gaines  Makes  a  Treaty  with  the  Indians— Official  Acts— Agent  Skinner-  More  Complaints  Against  the  In- 
dians— Affairs  on  the  Coquille. 

About  May  15,  1851,  a  party  of  three  white  packers  and  two  supposed  friendly 
Indians  camped  about  tliirty  miles  soutli  of  the  Rogue  river  crossing,  probably  near 
the  site  of  Pho?nix.  During  the  night  the  two  savages  arose,  and  taking  the  only  gun 
owned  by  the  party  shot  and  killed  one  Dilley,  and  then  tied,  carrying  away  the  mules 
and  packs.  The  other  two  whites  escaped,  and  spread  the  news  of  the  murder.  Cap- 
tain Long,  of  Portland,  then  mining  near  Shasta  Butte  City  (Yreka),  raised  a  com- 
pany of  thirty  men  to  correct  the  savages,  and  proceeding  north,  encountered  at  some 
undesignated  place  a  party  of  tliem.  These  they  attacked,  killing  two  and  capturing 
four,  of  whom  two  were  the  daughters  of  the  chief.     The  latter  were  held  as  hostages. 

Probably  in  nearly  the  same  locality,  and  certainly  witliin  the  Rogue  river  valley, 
several  other  hostile  occurrences  took  place,  which  are  casually  mentioned  in  the  public 
prints  of  that  time.  On  the  first  of  June,  1851,  a  band  of  Indians  had  attacked 
twenty-six  prospectors,  but  withdrew,  doing  no  damage.  On  June  second  four  men 
were  attacked  and  robbed  of  tlieir  mules  and  packs  while  on  the  way  to  the  mines. 
On  the  same  day  and  near  by,  Nichols'  pack-train  was  robbed  of  several  animals  and 
packs,  and  one  man  was  hit  in  the  heel  by  a  bullet.  Other  travelers  were  beset  at 
about  the  same  time  and  place,  one  train  losing,  it  was  reported,  four  men.  Says  the 
Statesman:  "The  provisions  stolen  by  these  Indians  were  left  untouched,  because  a 
Mr.  Turner,  of  St.  Louis,  had  killed  several  of  them  by  allowing  them  to  rob  him  of 
poisoned  provisions  (sixteen  or  seventeen  years  before)."  On  June  third  a  party  of 
thirty-two  Oregonians  under  Dr.  James  McBride,  and  including  also  A.  M.- Richard- 
son, of  San  Jose,  California  ;  James  Barlow  and  Captain  Turpin,  of  Clackamas  county; 
Jesse  Dodson  and  his  son  aged  fourteen  years  ;  Aaron  Payne  and  Dillard  Holman,  of 
Yamhill  county  ;  and  Jesse  Runnels,  Presley  Lovelady,  and  Richard  Sparks,  of  Polk 
county ;  had  a  severe  fight  with  the  Indians  near  "  Green  Willow  Springs,  about  twenty 
miles  the  other  side  of  Rogue  river  crossing."  At  daybreak  they  were  attacked  by  a 
j)arty  of  Rogue  River  Indians  under  chief  Chucklehead,  as  he  was  called  by  some 
whites.  The  assailed  party  had  seventeen  guns,  the  assailants  about  as  many,  the  most 
of  the  latter  being  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  After  fighting  four  and  a  half  hours 
the  Indian  leader  was  killed  and  the  rest  retreated.  The  chief  was  in  the  act  of  aim- 
ing an  arrow  at  James  Barlow  when  Richardson  shot  hiin.  Six  or  seven  Indians  were 
killed,  but  no  hurt  was  done  to  the  whites,  excei^ting  that  Barlow  was  wounded  in  the 


CEN.eJOSEPH  LANBS  TOMB, 

Masonic  Cemetlry,  Roseburg. 


INDIAN  WARS.  197 

thigh  by  an  arrow.     The  Indians  drove  oft' four  saddle  and  pac-k  animals,  one  carrying 
about  fifteen  hundred  dollars  in  gold  dust. 

These  events,  occurring  in  rapid  sequence,  deepened  the  before  general  impression 
of  the  hostile  character  of  the  Rogue  Rivers  and  made  it  necessary  that  an  armed 
force  should  be  employed  to  paeifieate  the  red  men.  Providentially,  it  happened  at 
this  juncture  that  Brevet  Major  P.  Kearney,  afterAvards  a  celebrated  general  in  the 
Union  army,  and  killed  at  the  battle  of  Chantilly,  with  a  detachment  of  two  com- 
panies of  United  States  regulars,  was  on  his  way  from  the  station  at  Vancouver  to 
that  of  Benicia,  California,  guided  by  W.  G.  T'Vault.  Approaching  closely  to  the 
scene  of  hostilities  he  was  invited  to  lend  his  aid  in  suppressing  the  savages.  About 
the  same  time  Governor  Gaines,  of  Oregon,  disquieted  by  the  reports  of  Indian  out- 
rages, set  'out  from  the  seat  of  government  with  the  design  of  using  his  executive 
authority  to  form  a  treaty  with  the  offenders ;  and  the  task  was  made  an  easy  one  by 
the  promjDt  and  energetic  action  of  Major  Kearney  and  General  Joseph  Lane,  who 
cleared  a  way  for  executive  dii^lomacy,  whereas,  without  their  help  his  excellency 
would  most  certainly  have  failed  of  his  laudable  object  and  possibly  have  lost  his  scalp 
besides. 

The  most  intelligible  accounts  which  can  be  gathered  represent  that  Major  Kearney 
found  the  main  body  of  the  Indians  on  the  right  bank  of  Rogue  river,  about  ten  miles 
above  Table  Rock  and  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek  which  enters  the 
river  from  the  east,  and  above  Little  Butte  creek.  The  troops  consisted  of  two  coni- 
l)anies  ;  one  of  dragoons,  commanded  by  Captain  Stewart,  the  other  a  rifle  company, 
under  Cajjtain  Walker.  The  latter  officer  crossed  the  river,  probably  with  the  design 
of  cutting  off"  the  savages'  retreat,  while  Captain  Stewart,  dismounting  his  men,  charged 
upon  the  Indians  who  were  gathered  at  a  rancheria.  The  conflict  was  very  short,  the 
Indians  fleeing  almost  immediately.  A  wounded  Indian  lay  upon  the  ground,  and 
Captain  Stewart  approached,  revolver  in  hand,  to  dispatch  him  ;  but  the  savage,  fixing- 
an  arrow  to  his  bow-string,  discharged  it  at  close  range  and  pierced  the  captain's  abdo- 
men, the  point  transfixing  one  of  his  kidneys.  The  fight  and  pursuit  soon  ended  and 
the  wounded  man  was  taken  to  the  camp  of  the  detachment  which  spot  was  named,  and 
subsequently  ftjr  several  years  known  as  Camp  Stewart,  and  is  popularly  supposed  to 
be  the  spot  where  the  battle  occurred.  Jesse  Applegate  is  the  authority  for  fixing  the 
location  as  above  stated.  Accounts  of  the  battle  proceed  to  say  that  the  wounded  man 
was  mortally  injured,  but  remained  sensible  to  the  last.  He  lived  a  day,  and,  before 
dying  said :  "  It  is  too  bad  to  have  fought  through  half  the  battles  of  the  Mexican  war  to 
1)6  killed  here  by  an  Indian."  He  Avas  buried  with  military  honors  in  a  grave  near 
the  present  village  of  PlKjeuix,  nearly  at  the  place  where  the  ditch  crosses  the  stage 
road,  and  where  ]Mr.  Culver's  house  now  stands.  In  later  years  the  remains  were 
exhumed  and  taken  to  Washington  to  be  re-interred  near  those  of  his  mother.  General 
Lane  said  of  the  deceased:  "  We  have  lost  Captain  Stewart,  one  of  the  bravest  of  the 
brave.  A  more  gentlemanly  man  never  lived;  a  more  daring  soldier  nevei'  fell  in 
battle." 

Ca|)tuin  Stewart's  engagement  is  supposed  to  have  taken  place  on  ,)une  2()  or  27. 
It  liappeiied  that  at  the  same  time  Major  Alvord,  with  Jesse  Applegate  as  guide,  was 
UKikiiig  an  examination   of  the  canyon  or  Cow  creek  mountain,  l)etween   the  Umpqua 


198  INDIAN  WARS. 

aud  Rogue  river  regions,  to  determine  a  feasible  route  for  a  military  road.  The  .sur- 
veying party,  which  included  several  other  well  known  early  pioneers  as  well  as  a 
small  military  escort,  was  in  the  neighborhood  of  Cow  creek.  At  the  same  time  Gen- 
eral Lane,  who  was  on  his  way  south,  had  arrived  in  the  canyon.  Here  he  was  met 
by  men  who  informed  him  of  the  occurrences  of  the  preceding  days,  that  a  severe  fight 
had  taken  place,  and  that  the  Indians  were  gathering  from  every  quarter;  that  they 
were  hy-as  solluks,  (fighting  mad),  and  that  heavy  fighting  was  anticipated.  This  was 
news  enough  to  arouse  the  warlike  spirit  of  the  General,  and  without  losing  a  moment 
by  delay  he  and  his  little  party  pushed  for  the  scene  of  hostilities,  anxious  to  be  the 
first  to  strike  a  blow  in  the  cause  of  humanity.  It  was  characteristic  of  the  man  to 
make  all  possible  haste  to  the  scene,  and  accordingly  we  find  him  on  Rogue  river  in 
the  shortest  possible  time,  an  enthusiastic  volunteer,  armed  with  no  military  or  civil 
authority,  but  taking,  as  became  the  man  and  the  time,  a  most  active  and  important 
part  in  the  events  of  the  succeeding  days. 

In  his  own  words;  "On  Sunday  night,  while  picketing  our  animals,  an  express 
rider  came,  who  informed  us  that  the  Major  [Kearney]  had  set  out  with  his  command 
that  evening  to  make  a  forced  march  through  the  night  and  attack  the  enemy  at  day- 
break. Early  Monday  morning  I  set  out  with  the  hope  of  falling  in  with  him  or  with 
the  Indians  retreating  from  him.  We  made  a  hard  day's  ride,  but  found  no  one.  On 
Tuesday  I  proceeded  to  camp  Stewart;  but  no  tidings  had  been  received  from  the 
Major.  Late  in  the  evening  Captain  Scott  and  T' Vault  came  in  with  a  small  party, 
for  supplies  aud  re-inforcements.  They  reported  that  the  military  had  fonght  two 
skirmishes  with  the  Indians,  one  early  Monday  morning,  the  other  late  in  the  afternoon, 
the  Indians  having,  after  wounding  Stewart,  posted  themselves  in  a  dense  hummock 
where  they  defended  themselves  for  four  hours,  escaping  in  the  darkness.  The  Indians 
suffered  severely,  and  several  whites  were  injured. 

"  By  nine  o'clock  at  night  we  were  on  our  way,  and  at  two  o'clock  the  next  morn- 
ing we  were  in  the  Major's  camp.  Here  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  my  friends 
Applegate  [Jesse],  Freaner,  and  others.  Early  in  the  morning  we  set  out  [soldiers 
and  civilians  together],  proceeding  down  the  river,  and  on  Thursday  morning  crossed 
about  seven  miles  from  the  ferry.  We  soon  found  an  Indian  trail  leading  uj)  a  large 
creek,  and  in  a  short  time  overtook  and  charged  upon  a  party  of  Indians,  killing  one. 
The  rest  made  their  escape  in  dense  chaparral.  We  again  pushed  rapidly  forward  and 
late  in  the  evening  attacked  another  party  of  Indians,  taking  twelve  women  and  chil- 
dren and  wounding  several  males  who  escaped.  Here  we  camped;  and  next  day 
scoured  the  country  to  Rogue  river,  crossing  it  at  Table  mountain  and  reaching  camjs 
at  dark. 

"  The  Indians  have  been  completely  whipped  in  every  fight.  Some  fifty  of  them 
have  been  killed,  many  wounded,  and  thirty  taken  prisoners.  Major  Kearney  has 
been  in  the  saddle  for  more  than  ten  days,  scouring  the  country,  and  jjouncing  upon 
the  Indians  wherever  they  could  be  found.  Never  has  an  Indian  country  been  invaded 
with  better  success  nor  at  a  better  time.  The  establishing  of  a  garrison  in  this  district 
will  be  necessary  for  the  preservation  of  peace.  That  done,  and  a  good  agent  located 
here,  we  shall  have  no  more  trouble  in  this  quarter.  As  for  our  prisoners,  the  Major 
was  anxious  to  turn  them  over  to  the  people  of  Oregon,  to  be  delivered  to  the  Superin- 


INDIAN  WARS.  109 

tendent  of  Indian  affairs ;  but  no  citizens  conkl  he  found  who  were  willing  to  take 
charge  of  them.  Conseciuently  he  determined  to  take  them  to  Ban  Francisco  and  send 
them  from  there  to  Oregon." 

A  few  days  later  when  the  troops  and  General  Lane  had  reached  the  diggings 
near  Yreka,  the  General  himself,  having  determined  to  return  to  Oregon,  took  charge 
of  the  prisoners  and  delivered  them  to  Governor  Gaines,  at  the  Rogue  river  crossing 
(near  A^'annoy's).  The  General  closes  his  account  by  assigning  due  credit  to  different 
members  of  the  expedition,  as  Major  Kearney,  Caistain  Walker,  of  the  Rifles;  Dr.  Wil- 
liamson, Lieutenant  Irvin,  Messrs.  Applegate,  Scott,  T'Vault,  Armstrong,  Blanchard 
and  Boon,  Col.  Freaner  and  his  volunteers,  etc.  Quite  a  number  of  miners  assisted 
against  the  Indians,  many  having  come  from  the  newly  discovered  diggings  on  Jose- 
phine creek  to  take  part.  A  great  rush  of  men  from  Yreka  and  that  vicinity  had 
taken  place  just  previous,  and  many  of  these,  not  finding  sufficient  inducements  to 
remain,  were  on  their  way  back  to  California,  but  stopped  at  Bear  creek  and  lent  their 
aid  to  suppress  the  Indians. 

The  campaign  of  June  ended  by  the  departure  of  the  regulars,  who  took  up  their 
line  of  march  for  California  and  will  be  heard  of  no  more  in  our  story.  But  before 
the  effects  of  their  operations  in  the  Rogue  river  valley  had  died  away,  and  while  most 
of  the  men  who  inflicted  such  sudden  punishment  on  the  Indians  were  still  near  by^ 
Governor  Gaines  came  to  the  Rogue  river  crossing  and  arranged  a  treaty  of  peace. 
The  terms  of  this  treaty  mainly  consist  of  a  promise  on  the  part  of  the  Indians  that 
they  would  be  very  good  Indians  indeed,  and  not  kill  or  rob  any  more  white  men. 
They  would  stay  on  their  own  ground,  which  for  official  purposes  was  recognized  as 
the  north  side  of  the  river ;  and  they  would  cheerfully  obey  the  commands  of  wdiat- 
ever  individual  was  sent  among  them  as  agent.  To  this  treaty  the  signatures  of  eleven 
chiefs  were  appended,  whose  bands  were  bound  thereby  to  obey  its  stipulatiojis.  But 
the  most  troublesome  and  desperate  individuals  of  the  native  tribes  refused  to  be  thus 
bound  ;  and  the  strong  parties  known  as  the  Grave  creek  and  Scisco  mountain  bands, 
refused  to  meet  the  governor  or  have  aught  to  do  with  the  treaty. 

Something  of  an  organization  had  been  given  to  the  depailment  of  Indian  affairs 
of  Oregon,  by  the  creation  of  a  superintendent  thereof,  who  being  the  governor  of  the 
territory,  held  the  former  position  ex  officio.  But  the  administration  of  this  depart- 
ment not  proving,  for  some  reason,  satisfactory  to  the  authorities  at  Washington,  the 
two  offices  were  separated,  and  Doctor  Anson  Dart  was  appointed  superintendent  in 
1851,  soon  after  the  Rogue  river  treaty  was  formed.  Judge  A.  A.  Skinner,  formerly 
on  the  territorial  bench,  was  chosen  agent  for  the  Indians  of  the  southern  part  of  the 
territory,  and  set  about  his  duties.  The  judge  was  a  gentleman  of  tlie  strictest  honor 
and  probity,  but  was  singularly  unsuccessful  in  his  dealings  with  the  Rogue  river 
bands.  AVithin  a  short  time  after  his  accession  to  office,  the  terms  of  the  Gaines  treaty 
being  still  recognized,  a  number  of  Avhite  immigrants  took  uj)  donation  claims  on  the 
north  side  of  Rogue  river,  within  the  region  informally  set  apart  for  the  Indians. 
Judge  Skinner  expostulated ;  but  commands  and  appeals  to  the  new-comers  were  alike 
unheeded  ;  the  settlers  remained  and  the  Indians  took  umbrage  at  what  they  consid- 
ered a  breach  of  faith  on  the  part  of  the  whites.  It  does  not  appear  that  the  intrud- 
ing settlers  in  all  cases  maintained  a  permanent    residence  upon  the   land   assigned  to 


200  INDIAN  WARS. 

the  Indians,  and  this  cause  of  complaint  seems  never  to  have  assumed  much  magni- 
tude. However  that  may  have  been,  Judge  Skinner  was  much  liked  by  his  wards, 
and  was  lamented  by  them  at  his  departure.  He  was  ever  ready  to  interpose  his 
authority,  limited  though  it  was,  between  the  whites  and  the  Indians,  and  with  ampler 
power  might  have  served  to  obviate,  for  a  time,  the  ills  of  the  subsequent  year,  though 
not  even  the  ablest  of  minds  could  have  permanently  settled  the  causes  at  issue,  since 
th«y  were  inevitably  bound  to  terminate  in  war. 

As  some  pretended  to  have  foreseen  the  Gaines  treaty  proved  an  unmitigated  fail- 
ure. Hardly  had  the  governor  set  his  face  toward  the  valley  of  the  Willamette, 
than  quarrels,  misunderstanding,  and  serious  difficulties  broke  out  between  tliQ  red  and 
white  occupants  of  Rogue  river  valley  and  neighboring  localities.  The  one  race  speedily 
grew  "insolent"  and  the  other  began,  as  usual,  reprisals.  There  were  not  wanting 
unprincipled  men  of  both  races,  whose  delight  was  to  stir  up  war  and  contention,  and 
ruffianly  bands  of  either  color  paraded  the  country  and  a  condition  of  terrorism  pre- 
vailed. Among  the  Indians,  it  was  said,  were  several  white  men  who  had  adopted 
Indian  dress  and  manners,  and  these,  if  such  existed,  as  there  doubtless  did,  must  have 
proved  among  the  worst  enemies  of  peace.  Much  complaint  of  the  Indians  began  to  be 
rife  very  soon  after  the  treaty  was  signed;  and  the  Cow  Creek  Indians,  always  a  pugna- 
cious tribe,  were  charged  with  the  commission  of  several  outrages  within  two  months  oi 
that  event.  The  whites  mining  at  Big  Bar  and  other  places  on  the  Rogue  river,  and 
industriously  prospecting  the  numerous  streams  which  flow  into  it,  were  in  constant 
danger.  Lieutenant  Irvin,  of  the  regular  army,  was  kidnapped  by  two  savages  (Shastas 
probably)  and  a  Frenchman,  removed  to  the  trackless  woods,  tied  to  a  tree  and  sub- 
jected to  many  sorts  of  personal  indignity.  He  escaped  however,  injured  only  in  mind, 
but  deeply  convinced  that  the  locality  was  too  dangerous  for  a  pleasant  existence.  This 
occurred  in  July.  In  consequence  of  this  and  other  occurrences,  General  Hitchcock, 
commanding  the  Pacific  Department,  dispatched  a  force  of  twenty  regular  troops 
from  Vancouver  and  Astoria  to  Port  Orford,  a  newly  located  place  on  the  coast  of 
Curry  county,  thirty  miles  north  of  the  mouth  of  Rogue  river  and  then  supposed 
to  be  accessible  from  the  former  seat  of  war  near  Table  Rock.  Subsequent  explora- 
tions have  dispelled  this  idea  and  proved  that  the  military,  so  far  as  their  effect 
upon  the  malcontents  of  the  upper  portion  of  Rogue  river  valley  was  concerned, 
might  as  well  have  been  left  at  Vancouver.  However,  they  were  well  situated  to  awe 
the  hostiles  who  had  broken  out  nearer  the  coast.  Contemporaneously  with  the  events 
above  mentioned  had  occurred  on  the  coast  several  incidents  of  the  greatest  celebrity. 
The  accounts  of  two  of  these,  the  defense  of  Battle  Rock,  at  Port  Orford,  and  the  mem- 
orable T' Vault-Williams  exploring  expedition,  will  be  found  in  another  part  of  this 
work,  the  space  deemed  suitable  for  their  proper  presentation  being  too  extended  for 
this  article.  The  Indians  of  the  Coquille  river  being  thus  found  hostile,  the  detach- 
ment, somewhat  re-inforced,  proceeded  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Casey,  to  teach  them  a  lesson.  Dividing  his  small  force  into  two  bodies,  the  commander 
proceeded  to  the  forks  of  the  Coquille,  and  near  the  locality  now  called  Myrtle  Point, 
attacked  a  band  of  natives,  who  retreating  from  the  one  detachment  fell  in  with  and 
were  beaten  by  the  other.     This  took  jilace  in  the  autumn  of  1851. 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

HOSTILITIES    OCCURRING  IN    1852. 

Events  of  the  Year  -Murder  of  Woodman — Pursuit  of  the  Murderers — The  Steele  Expedition — Affairs  at  Big 
Bend— A  Slaughter  of  Indians— A  Peace  Talk— Steele  Returns  to  Yreka— Ben  Wright— His  Character  -The 
McDarmit  Expedition  -Massacre  at  Bloody  Point  -Ben  Wright  Sets  Out  for  Tule  Lake  -The  Indians  De- 
feated Discovery  of  Murdered  Immigrants-  Scouting  at  Tule  Lake-- The  Lost  River  Massacre— Three  Ver- 
sions— Triumphal  Return  to  Yreka— Concerning  a  Murder  at  Galice  Creek  or  Vannoy's  Ferry — Fort  Jones 
Established. 

The  main  events  of  importance  in  1852  included  the  murder  of  Calvin  Wood- 
man, the  massacre  of  Bloody  Point,  wherein  thirty-six  persons  lost  their  lives ;  and 
the  killing  of  the  seven  miners  on  Rogue  river,  near  the  mouth  of  Galice  creek.  Of 
these  events,  only  the  last  took  place  within  the  limits  of  Southern  Oregon,  but  they 
are  all  of  sufficiently  connected  interest  to  justify  a  narration  herein. 

The  date  of  Woodman's  death  is  unsettled ;  the  author  of  the  history  of  Siskiyou 
says  it  occurred  in  May,  1852  ;  but  certain  official  documents,  particularly  a  report  on 
the  number  and  names  of  those  whites  killed  by  various  Indian  tribes  in  Southern 
Oregon  and  Northern  California,  mention  it  as  occurring  in  June  of  that  year.  June 
second  has  been  specifically  mentioned  ;  but  the  exact  date  is  immaterial.  The  man — 
a  miner — was  killed  while  riding  along  the  banks  of  Indian  creek,  a  tributary  of  Scott 
river.  Two  Indians  did  the  bloody  deed,  and  fled.  Quickly  the  whites  gathered  at 
Johnson's  ranch  and  fired  upon  whatever  Indian  they  could  find,  and  making  the 
peaceful  natives  of  Scott  valley  the  principal  victims.  These  Indians  who  had  never 
broken  out  into  hostilities,  but  had  rather  signalized  themselves  by  moderation  and  an 
obliging  disposition  toward  the  whites,  retaliated  upon  occasion  and  severely  wounded 
S.  G.  Whipple,  the  deputy  sheriff,  but  late  captain  in  the  regular  army.  Old  Tolo, 
Tyee  John  of  Scott  valley,  and  Tyee  Jim  offered  themselves  as  hostages  to  secure 
the  whites  against  the  Shastas,  and  accompanied  Elijah  Steele  to  Yreka,  where  the 
real  culprits  were  supposed  to  have  fled.  All  were  convinced  that  the  Shastas  had 
nothing  to  do  with  the  murder,  and  that  it  was  most  2:)robably  committed  by  Rogue 
River  Indians,  who,  it  was  said,  had  been  seen  in  the  Ticinity,  and  who  had  now  gone 
north  to  join  Tipsu  Tyee,  or  the  bauds  on  the  river  near  Table  Rock.  There  was  a 
great  deal  of  excitement  at  Yreka  concerning  the  matter,  and  the  court  of  sessions 
authorized  Steele  to  apprehend  the  suspected  parties,  it  not  being  supposed  that  much 
time  or  travel  would  be  necessary  to  enable  him  to  comply. 

The  undertaking,  however,  proved  an  arduous  one  ;  and  Steele  and  his  eleven 
companions,  who  included  John  Galvin,  Peter  Snellback,  James  Bruce  (afterwards 
major  in  the  war  of  1855-0)  Frank  Merritt,  John  McLeod,  Dr.  L.  S.  Thompson,  James 
White,  the   two  hostages,  and  a   Klickitat  Indian  named  Bill,  rode  to  Rogue  river  in 


202  INDIAN  WARS. 

the  searcli,  taking  two  Indians  captive  on  the  way.  The  first  of  these  attempted  to 
escape,  but  was  shot  by  the  KHckitat,  who  was  detailed  to  pursue  him.  The  dead  man 
had  been  sent  out,  it  was  afterwards  conckided,  to  persuade  the  Shastas  to  join  Sam's 
band  in  a  proposed  war  against  the  whites.  The  other  prisoner  was  well  mounted  and 
armed,  and  proved  to  be  a  son  of  Tipsu  Tyee,  the  enigmatical  chief  who  dwelt  in  the 
Siskiyous.  Him  they  took  along  and  hearing  that  there  was  a  prospect  of  finding  their 
refugees  at  the  general  encampment  of  the  Rogue  Rivers,  kept  on  to  that  stream. 
Farther  along  they  met  Judge  A.  A.  Skinner,  the  Indian  agent,  and  by  him  were 
requested  to  camp  at  Big  Bend,  where  he  had  arranged  for  a  conference  of  whites  and 
Indians  on  the  morrow.  Certain  grievances  had  arisen  between  the  Indians  and 
whites,  which  at  this  distant  day  cannot  be  fully  made  out.  Chief  among  these  griev- 
ances, it  was  said,  was  the  desire  of  "  Young  Sam,"  son  of  Tyee  Sam,  the  principal 
war  chief,  to  possess  the  hand  and  heart  of  little  Miss  Ambrose,  daughter  of  Dr. 
Ambrose,  afterwards  Indian  agent,  and  who  was  living  with  his  family  on  an  agricul- 
tural claim  adjoining  T'Vault's  at  the  Dardanelles.  But  this  is  doubtless  a  mistake, 
as  the  writer  is  informed  that  the  young  lady  in  question  had  not  yet  reached  two  years 
of  age.  The  cause  was  a  more  trivial  one,  it  is  said,  and  concerned  only  a  piece  of 
beef.  The  settlers  near  by,  alarmed  for  the  safety  of  themselves  and  families,  applied 
to  the  people  of  Jacksonville  for  assistance,  and  a  company  numbering  some  twenty- 
eight  or  thirty,  all  young  men,  under  the  command  of  J.  K.  Lameiick,  of  after  celeb- 
rity, proceeded  instantly  to  their  assistance,  arriving  on  Big  Bend,  in  front  of  and  across 
the  river  from  the  Indian  rancheria,  a  short  time  previous  to  Steele's  arrival.  Besides 
the  companies  of  Lamerick  and  Steele,  quite  a  number  of  neighboring  settlers  had 
gathered  there,  anxious  to  see  the  result  of  the  proceedings,  and  these  being  armed, 
attached  themselves  to  Lamerick's  company  in  order  to  assist  in  the  exjsected  engage- 
ment. The  whole  of  Joe  and  Sam's  Indians  were  at  the  rancheira,  and  considerable 
coaxing  was  necessary  to  bring  them  to  talk  with  the  whites.  Some  crossed  over,  and 
the  rest,  emboldened  by  Judge  Skinner's  promises,  also  came,  to  the  number  of  a  hun- 
dred or  more.  The  Judge,  always  favorable  to  the  Indians,  tried  to  bring  about  a 
reconciliation ;  and  for  this  purpose  proposed  that  both  parties  should  remove  to  a  log 
cabin  situated  at  some  little  distance  away.  Suspecting  treachery,  the  Indians  refused 
to  go,  although  Joe,  their  peace  chief,  tried  to  persuade  them  to  do  so.  Sam,  his  brother, 
had  recently  returned  to  the  rancheria  for  safety.  At  this  moment  John  Galvin,  one 
of  Steele's  Yrekans,  rudely  pushed  the  muzzle  of  his  rifle  against  an  Indian's  naked 
back,  desiring  him  to  move  toward  the  cabin.  The  savage  made  a  natural  motion  to 
resent  the  indignity,  when  Galvin  instantly  shot  him  dead.  Fighting  immediately 
took  place.  The  dismayed  and .  overmatched  Indians  got  behind  trees  or  sprung  into 
the  river  and  all  was  confusion.  Those  of  the  savages  who  were  on  the  north  side, 
began  firing,  but  without  effect,  and  hostilities  only  ceased  when  thirteen  Indians  had 
been  killed.  No  white  men  were  injured.  Old  Joe,  the  peace  chief,  clasped  his  arms 
about  Martin  Angell  and  clung  desperately  to  him  for  protection.  He  was  saved  from 
his  impending  fate  by  Angell  and  two  or  three  others,  who  kept  off  the  excited  throng 
of  whites. 

Fighting    ceased,    and   arrangements    were   made  for   the   morrow's  operations. 
Steele,  with  his  Yrekans,  agreed  to  move  up  the  river  to  a  certain  point,  cross  the 


INDIAN  WARS.  203 

stream  at  Hailey'.s  ferry  and  come  down  on  the  north  bank  to  the  vicinity  of  the 
rancheria.  A  detachment  of  Lamerick's  company,  embracing  mainly  the  settlers  who 
had  proffered  their  services,  was  appointed  to  go  dt)wn  the  river,  cross  and  gain  the  top 
of  upper  Table  Rock,  whence  they  could  command  the  vicinity.  The  main  body, 
under  Lamerick,  rendezvoused  at  Ambrose's  ranch  and  at  night  returned  to  the  scene 
of  the  fight  and  crossed  in  the  darkness  at  a  very  dangerous  and  difficult  ford  near  the 
rancheria.  When  across  they  stopped  until  it  grew  light,  and  then  moved  toward  the 
Indian  stnmghold  which  was  surrounded  by  thick  shrubbery,  interlaced  and  nearly 
impervious  to  man  or  beast.  When  within  shooting  distance  the  Indians  oj^ened  fire 
on  them,  which  was  returned,  and  as  the  expected  reinforcements  had  not  arrived,  the 
troops  had  to  wait.  Sometime  in  the  forenoon  the  settlers  appeared,  when  the  Indians 
immediately  proclaimed  their  desire  for  a  klose  toa  wa.  This  the  volunteers  somewhat 
objected  to,  as  it  dispelled  all  chance  of  fighting  for  which  they  were  eager  and 
now  so  well  prepared.  A  council  of  war  was  held,  and  it  was  decided  that  in  view 
of  the  fact  that  the  Indians  had  already  suffered  much  damage,  and  the  cause  of 
the  difficulty  did  not  warrant  a  war  of  extermination,  it  would  be  best  to  have  a 
talk.  The  contending  forces  soon  came  to  an  amicable  understanding  and  agreed 
to  let  the  past  be  buried  with  the  hatchet,  and  then  the  volunteers  returned 
home.  Steele's  company  moved  down  the  river  as  agreed  upon,  but  found  that 
peace  had  been  restored  before  their  arrival.  They  then  returned  to  Yreka.  Even 
their  homeward  journey  was  not  without  its  share  of  excitement,  for  it  apjiears 
the  party,  in  order  to  avoid  Tipsu  Tyee,  who  was  supposed  to  spend  his  time  watching 
for  the  scalps  of  all  those  who  passed  his  domains,  took  a  wide  and  painful  circuit 
through  the  untrodden  wilds  and  suffered  somewhat  from  hunger  as  well  as  apprehen- 
sion. The  Steele  expedition  failed  to  arrest  the  two  murderers,  and  was  beside  some- 
what expensive  to  its  leader,  who  afterwards  deposed  that  it  cost  him  $2,000  which 
he  could  get  nobody  to  pay. 

About  the  time  of  Steele's  departure  from  Yreka,  Ben  Wright,  the  Indian  fighter 
par  excellence  of  all  the  country  around,  also  set  out  from  that  town  in  search  of  the 
two  murderers  of  Woodman ;  he  was  accorajjanied  by  several  Indians,  among  them 
being  Scar-face,  a  Shasta  sub-chief,  a  man  much  suspected  by  the  whites.  Proceeding 
toward  the  Klamath  the  party  was  divided  and  Scar-face,  venturing  near  Yreka  alone, 
was  seen  and  pursued  by  several  whites  who  sought  to  add  him  to  their  already  long 
list  of  "  good  Indians  "  slain  in  revenge  for  the  killing  of  a  man  they  had  doubtless 
never  heard  of.  The  terror-struck  Indian,  on  foot  as  he  was,  led  them  a  race  of 
eighteen  miles  along  the  hill  sides  before  he  was  taken  by  his  mounted  pursuers.  He 
was  then  hung  to  a  tree  in  what  is  now  known  as  Scar-face  gulch.  Wright  was  more 
fortunate  than  Steele  ia  his  search,  for  he  returned  to  Scott  valley  with  two  prisoners, 
who  were  tried  by  a  citizens'  court  at  the  Lone  Star  ranch,  where  immense  crowds  of 
men  from  Yreka,  Humbug,  Scott  river  and  other  mining  centers  attended.  They  found 
one  of  the  prisoners  guilty  and  hanged  him  immediately ;  the  other  one  was  allowed 
to  go.     Thus  ended  the  Woodman  tragedy. 

The  people  of  Jacksonville  and  Yreka  became  much  exercised  in  the  summer  of 
1852  in  regard  to  the  probable  fate  of  the  immigrants  of  that  year,  who  were  coming 


204  INDIAN  WARS. 

in  large  numbers  by  way  of  the  southern  route  from  Fort  Hall  via  Clear  lake  and  Tule 
lake.  The  Indians  on  the  route,  consisting  mainly  of  Piutes  and  Modocs,  had  long 
been  regarded  as  hostile,  and  the  advance  parties  of  that  year's  immigration  reported 
them  as  being  exceedingly  troublesome.  During  the  previous  year  the  settlers  of 
Yreka  had  lost  quite  a  number  of  horses  by  the  Modocs,  part  of  them  being  recovered 
by  Ben  Wright  with  a  small  company  of  miners,  who  pursued  the  Indians.  This  Ben 
Wright  enters  largely  into  the  history  of  Indian  matters  in  Northern  California  and 
Southern  Oregon,  and  divides  the  honors  of  a  successful  Indian  fighter  with  such 
men  as  Kit  Carson  and  other  celebrated  frontiersmen.  Much  has  been  written  of  him, 
and  his  career  would  apj^ear  to  bear  out  in  full  both  the  praises  bestowed,  on  him  as 
a  courageous  and  successful  scout  and  a  skilled  mountaineer.  In  any  other  walk 
of  life,  or  amid  any  other  surroundings,  Wright  doubtless  would  never  have  been 
heard  of.  But  circumstance,  which  has  made  and  marred  the  fortune  of  so  many, 
raised  him  into  prominence  as  an  "  Indian  fighter  " — an  unenviable  occupation,  one 
would  think,  but  seemingly  the  object  of  many  men's  ambition.  Wright,  we  are  told, 
was  the  son  of  Quaker  parents  ;  but  the  peaceful  tenets  of  that  sect  were  set  at  naught 
by  their  son,  who  was  possessed  of  a  spirit  of  adventure  and  a  disposition  as  foolhardy 
and  reckless  as  ever  guided  man.  After  years  spent  in  living  with  or  fighting  against 
Indians,  he  found  himself,  in  the  early  part  of  1851,  on  Scott  river,  a  digger  of  gold. 
From  here  he  went,  during  the  same  year,  in  search  of  the  stolen  horses,  and  returned 
measurably  successful,  driving  the  horses  and  carrying  some  Indian  scalps.  Indeed  he 
was  quite  an  Indian  in  habits  and  appearance,  living  with  a  squaw,  wearing  long,  black 
and  glossy  hair,  which  fell  to  his  belt — a  fashion  aped  by  the  inferior  cow  boy — dress- 
ing in  buckskin  and  getting  himself  up  to  look  the  Indian  as  nearly  as  possible.  He 
fought  Indians  after  the  manner  of  their  own  warfare,  even  to  the  scalping  and  muti- 
lating of  the  dead,  and  to  the  use  of  strategy  and  treachery  to  get  the  foe  within  his 
grasp;  but  to  his  own  race  he  was  ever  true  and  honorable,  though  his  associates  were 
far  below  even  the  low  standard  of  society  then  existing.  By  the  Indians  who  encoun- 
tered him,  he  was  regarded  as  the  greatest  warrior  living;  and  taking  all  things  together 
he  was  just  the  man  for  the  emergency.  Let  the  good  results  and  the  accompanying 
circumstances  be  the  palliation  of  his  methods. 

Early  in  the  summer  of  J  852,  a  letter  was  received  at  Yreka  from  an  immigrant, 
who  was  on  his  way  to  that  place,  saying  that  great  suffering  would  ensue  if  the  train 
was  not  met  by  a  supply  of  provisions.  In  consequence  of  this  statement,  a  company 
of  men  was  organized,  with  Charles  McDermit  as  captain,  and  provisions  being  con- 
tributed by  merchants  and  others  of  Yreka,  the  train  set  out  for  Lost  river.  After 
passing  Tule  lake  they  were  met  by  a  jDarty  of  men  who  had  j^acked  across  the  jilains. 
McDermit  and  his  company  went  on,  and  the  packers  continued  toward  Yreka.  When 
they  reached  Bloody  Point,  on  the  north  side  of  Tule  lake,  they  were  surprised  by  the 
Modocs  who  were  hid  in  the  tules  bordering  the  trail,  and  who  rose  up  and  discharged 
volleys  of  arrows  at  them  at  short  range.  All  these  men  were  killed  save  one,  Cofiin 
by  name,  who  cut  the  pack  from  ahorse,  mounted  the  aniinal  and  riding  to  Yreka  gave 
the  alarm.  Bloody  Point  is  a  place  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake  where  a  spur  of  the 
mountains  runs  down  close  to  the  lake  shore.     Around  this  spur  the  old  emigrant  trail 


ifl^^^^y'i.%       ^ I 


INDIAN  WARS.  205 

passed,  just  beyond  being  a  large,  open  flat,  covered  with  tules,  wild  rye  and  bunch 
grass.     This  was  a  favorite  place  of  ambuscade. 

When  Coffin  arrived  in  Yreka  the  news  at  once  spread  far  and  wide.  Ben 
Wright  was  sent  for,  and  a  company  of  twenty-seven  men  quickly  volunteered  to  serve 
under  him  in  an  expedition  to  annihilate  utterly  and  without  remorse  the  treacherous 
and  blood-thirsty  hostiles  who  performed  the  deed.  These  set  out  without  loss  of  a 
moment,  being  well  supplied  with  arms,  horses  and  provisions,  by  the  benevolent  citi- 
zens of  Yreka.  But  meanwhile  the  savages  had  not  been  idle.  McDermit,  not  hear- 
ing of  the  tragic  fate  of  the  packers,  had  continued  on,  meeting  at  Black  Rock  two 
teams,  for  whose  guidance  he  detailed  three  men,  John  Onsby,  Thomas  H.  Coats  assem- 
blyman-elect of  Siskiyou  county  and  a  favorably  known  young  man,  and  James  Long. 
About  the  last  of  August  the  teams  encamped  at  Clear  lake,  and  the  next  day  the 
three  guides  rode  on  in  advance  to  select  a  proper  halting  place  at  noon.  One  of  the 
trains  delayed  somewhat  to  make  repairs  to  wagons,  and  thus  was  separated  from  the 
foremost  one,  which  included  thirty  men,  one  woman  and  a  boy.  As  they  came  over 
the  divide,  they  saw  the  Indians  about  Bloody  Point,  while  the  guides  were  unsus- 
pectingly riding  into  danger.  They  disappeared  around  the  point  when  shots  were 
fired,  and  the  three  were  butchered  relentlessly  by  the  savages,  who  retired  again  to 
the  tides  to  wait  for  fresh  victims.  The  men  with  the  train  divided  themselves  into 
a  front  and  a  rear  guard  and  kept  the  savages  at  bay  until  reaching  the  flat.  Here 
they  made  a  barricade  of  their  six  wagons  and  retired  within  it  for  jjrotection.  By 
being  constantly  on  their  guard  they  managed  to  thwart  the  attemjits  of  the  Indians 
to  dispossess  them,  but  were  kept  closely  beleaguered  until  noon  the  next  day,  when 
the  Modocs  drew  off  to  attack  the  other  train.  These  men,  however,  more  wise  than 
the  first,  drove  over  the  hill,  thus  avoiding  the  ambush  so  carefully  laid  for  them,  and 
found  safety  in  the  barricade  with  the  others. 

In  the  afternoon  Ben  Wright  ajjpeared,  and  taking  in  the  situation  at  a  glance, 
did  not  pause  to  communicate  with  the  whites,  but  furiously  charged  the  Modocs  even 
in  the  midst  of  the  tides,  and  attempted  to  cut  them  off  from  their  boats.  The  sav- 
ages stampeded,  and  making  for  the  water,  were  mingled  indiscriminately  with 
AVright's  men,  who  killed  them  almost  without  resistance.  All  along  the  bank  of  the 
lake  the  fight  raged ;  the  volunteers  shooting  and  cutting  with  a  ferocity  suited  to  a 
combat  with  such  cruel  adversaries.  The  savages  sought  only  to  reach  their  boats  and 
get  out  of  range,  and  even  in  this  they  but  partly  succeeded,  for  an  undetermined 
number,  ranging  from  twenty  to  forty,  if  we  may  believe  the  ordinary  accounts,  met  a 
richly  deserved  fate. 

Several  succeeding  days  were  spent  in  search  for  the  Modocs'  victims,  and  the 
mangled  bodies  of  many  immigrants  were  found,  whose  death  had  not  been  heard  of. 
Two  of  these  were  women  and  one  a  little  child.  They  were  all  mutilated  and  disfig- 
ured horribly,  bej^ond  recognition  in  probably  every  case.  Portions  of  wagons  were 
found,  and  camp  utensils,  fire-arms,  clothing,  money,  and  other  articles,  which  con- 
clusively showed  that  an  entire  emigrant  train  must  have  fallen  a  prey  to  the  demoni- 
acal hostility  of  the  Indians.  Twenty-two  bodies  were  found  and  buried  by  Wright's 
company  and  fourteen  by  that  of  Captain  Ross.  Of  these  hist  several  were  of  women 
and  children,  and  all  disfiourcd  and  mutilated. 


206  INDIAN  WAES. 

Tlie  stay  of  Captain  Ross'  Jacksonville  company  was  necessarily  shorter  than  that 
of  the  Yreka  men,  but  considerable  service  was  clone,  nevertheless,  in  j^rotecting  immi- 
grants and  assisting  in  the  search  for  the  murdered  peojile.  The  comj)any  left  Jack- 
sonville in  hot  haste  after  thirty  men  had  volunteered,  the  news  of  the  attack  on  the 
pack  train  arriving  in  the  evening.  By  the  next  morning  the  company  was  ready  to 
march.  Daniel  Barnes  was  chosen  first  lieutenant,  Nathan  Olney,  second.  Returning 
homeward,  Ctiptain  Ross  escorted  Snelling's  train,  the  largest  one  of  the  year,  safely 
to  its  destination  at  Yreka,  and  afterwards  proceeded  to  Jacksonville. 

A  three-months'  campaign  by  Wright's  comjjany,  with  active  scouting  and  a  good 
deal  of  skirmishing  with  hostile  parties,  effectually  protected  the  immigrant  trains 
coming  west.  Captain  Wright  being  well  supplied  with  ammunition  and  provisions 
contributed  by  the  joeople  of  Northern  California,  was  enabled  to  protract  his  stay  until 
all  the  immigrants  had  passed,  some  of  whom  were  provided  with  escorts  from  his  com- 
pany and  McDermit's,  reducing  Wright's  strength  to  eighteen  men.  With  these  he 
determined  on  a  campaign  against  the  savages,  the  main  body  of  whom  were  securely 
posted  on  an  island  in  Tule  lake.  A  company  of  U.  S.  dragoons  under  Major  Fitzgerald, 
had  materially  assisted,  by  scouting  along  the  shores  of  the  lake,  obliging  all  the 
hostiles  to  seek  refuge  on  the  island.  A  boat  was  provided,  l)eing  hauled  out  from 
Yreka,  in  which  six  armed  men  reconnoitered  almost  daily  the  savages'  position.  The 
Modocs  had  large  supplies  of  fish,  grass  seeds,  wo-cus  (pond  lily),  camas,  and  ijy-n, 
which  were  their  chief  articles  of  sustenance,  stored  away  in  caches  around  the  lake. 
These  were  nosed  out  by  Wright's  men,  assisted  by  five  Shastas  and  Swill,  a  Columbia 
river  Indian,  a  stray  Umatilla,  and  destroyed.  The  loss  affected  the  Modocs  seriously, 
and  they  thought  of  coming  to  terms.  Old  Mary,  a  stray  squaw,  was  sent  out  to  the 
island,  and  after  a  day  or  two  forty  Indians  came  over  and  peace  appeared  about  to 
spread  her  snowy  wings  over  the  scene.  The  object  of  Captain  Wright,  however,  was 
not  to  secure  peace,  but  to  kill  Indians;  and  this  he  set  about.  As  to  the  manner  in 
which  he  did  it,  accounts  differ  widely. 

Captain  Goodall,  now  residing  at  Kanaka  Flat,  near  Jacksonville,  may  be  esteemed 
a  credible  witness,  as  he  lived  in  Yreka  in  1852  and  was  intimate  with  the  most  of  the 
members  of  the  Ben  Wright  expedition,  particularly  with  the  leader.  It  is  reasonable 
to  suppose  that  he  was  in  Wright's  confidence  as  he  was  instrumental  in  sending  out 
the  party,  and  was  the  more  apt  to  know  with  certainty  concerning  it  as  he,  also,  was 
an  Indian  fighter  of  experience.  The  Captain  says :  "  Ben  Wright  had  several  pow- 
wows with  them,  and  when  at  length  it  was  found  necessary  to  close  the  campaign  on 
account  of  approaching  winter  and  snow,  a  final  talk  was  had,  in  which  a  beef  was 
killed  and  well  dosed  with  strychnine  which  I  bought  in  Yreka  and  sent  out  to  Wright. 
This  was  given  to  them  and  by  them  eaten  half  raw.  But  the  plan  failed  of  killing  all 
of  them  off,  for  the  heat  of  the  fire  deprived  the  poison  of  its  strength.  However  it 
was  successful  thus  far,  that  it  made  them  all  very  sick  with  the  'jerks,'  and  actually 
killed  five  of  them — that  is,  made  good  Indians  of  them;  or  in  other  phrase  'sunned 
their  moccasins.'  "  Captain  Wright  and  company  were  discharged  at  Yreka,  their 
muster-rolls  and  accounts  made  out  by  Captain  Goodall,  and  they  were  duly  paid  by 
the  state  in  scrip,  and  afterwards  by  the  United  States  in  greenbacks. 


INDIAN  WARS.  207 

This  is  one,  and  an  apparently  fair  version.  Next  comes  the  more  commonly 
accepted,  but  very  improbable  one  of  Wright's  having  poisoned  forty  Modocs,  thus 
annihilating  the  whole  band  with  the  exception,  some  say,  of  two  who  slipped  out  of 
camp  just  before  the  feast  of  poisoned  meat  began.  Several  writers  have  adopted  this 
tale,  for  examj)le,  A.  B.  Meacham  in  his  ridiculous  book  "Wigwam  and  Warpath." 
It  will  be  seen  that  the  above  stories  differ  only  as  to  the  number  of  Indians  killed ; 
which  would  naturally  be  exaggerated  as  time  went  on.  Hence  as  between  the  two, 
we  must  incline  to  that  of  Captain  Goodall.  Wright,  it  is  said,  persistently  denied  the 
story;  not  probably  from  any  deference  to  refined  people's  feelings,  and  certainly  not 
from  any  desire  to  screen  himself  from  any  measure  of  obloquy,  for  he  was  probably 
very  far  from  caring  for  anybody's  opinion. 

Finally  we  shall  consider  the  account  published  in  the  History  of  Siskiyou  county 
in  1881.  This  account,  evidently  prepared  with  great  pains  and  unlimited  attention 
to  accuracy  of  details,  was  written  to  be  read  by  people  who  might  be  presumed  to  know 
a  great  deal  concerning  the  matter.  Thus  far,  we  believe,  it  has  escaped  adverse 
criticism,  which  in  the  event  of  error  it  would  be  nearly  certain  to  meet.  A  synopsis 
of  the  account  is  as  follows : 

Negotiations  being  in  progress,  word  was  sent  to  the  Modocs  to  come  in  and  feast. 
The  camp  was  on  Lost  river,  and  the  Indians  who  speedily  came  in,  camped  near  by 
and  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  both  camps  being  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  above  the 
natural  bridge,  and  not  far  from  the  spot  where  Captain  Jack  and  the  troops  first  fought, 
ushering  in  the  Modoc  war  of  1873.  Some,  half  hundred  braves,  with  their  squaws, 
made  their  home  in  camp  and  lived  upon  the  provisions  of  the  whites.  Old  Sckonchin, 
head  chief,  foreseeing  trouble,  left  the  camp  as  did  others.  It  appears  to  have  been 
Wright's  intention  from  the  first  to  endeavor  to  get  the  Indians  to  restore  the  valuables 
they  were  thought  to  have  stolen  from  immigrants,  and  then  to  bring  on  a  fight  and 
kill  all  of  the  savages  he  could.  The  time  was  November;  the  river  was  very  low,  and 
had  two  banks,  forming  a  high  and  a  low  terrace.  On  the  higher  one  the  whites  slept, 
while  they  cooked  and  ate  on  the  lower  one.  The  Indians  camped  but  a  few  yards 
away,  mingled  with  the  whites  during  eating  times,  both  parties  leaving  their  arms  in 
camp.  Wright,  it  is  said,  discovered  a  plan  on  the  part  of  the  Indians  to  surprise  and 
massacre  his  force;  but  be  that  as  it  may,  he  was  too  quick  for  them,  and  put  in  effect 
his  own  plan  without  delay.  Sending  six  men  across  the  river  to  where  they  would  be 
opposite  the  Indian  camp  and  hence  able  to  cut  off  their  passage  across  the  stream, 
Wright  himself  went  down  among  the  Indians  who  were  scattered  about  the  camp-fires 
and  shot  dead,  as  a  preconcerted  signal,  a  young  buck.  The  other  whites  being  ready, 
continued  the  work  of  destruction  and  soon  no  men  were  left  alive  except  John  Schon- 
chin  and  Curly-headed  Doctor.  These  two 'escaped  and  were  heard  of  twenty  years 
after,  in  the  murder  of  Canby  and  Thomas.  Forty-seven  braves  and  several  squaws 
were  killed.  Wright's  men  numbered  but  nineteen,  including  two  Indians.  Their 
casualties  consisted  in  severe  wounds  to  Isaac  Sanbauch,  Poland  and  Brown.  The  rest 
were  uninjured.  Wright's  company  then  returned  to  Yreka  and  were  grandly  feted 
by  the  people.  They  rode  into  town  accompanied  by  a  guard  of  honor,  their  forty-odd 
scalps  and  sundry  other  mementoes  dangling  from  their  rifles,  hats,  and  horses'  heads. 
Cheers  rent  the  air.     The  enthusiastic  crowd  lifted  them   from  their  horses  and  bore 


208  INDIAN  WAES. 

them  to  the  saloons,  where  the  best  was  none  too  good.  Whisky  was  free  for  all,  and  a 
grand  dinner  was  given  in  honor  of  the  returned  avengers.  For  a  week,  high  carnival 
reigned. 

We  have  seen  how  these  accounts  vary ;  and  probably  the  reader,  in  trying  to 
settle  his  doubts,  consciously  or  unconsciously  inclines  to  the  last  version.  Being  the 
result  of  long  and  careful  investigation  and  weighing  of  testimony  of  parties  of  all 
shades  of  opinion,  it  should  be  accepted  in  preference  to  the  idea  of  any  one  man.  That 
poison  was  prepared  by  parties  in  Yreka  is  true,  but  all  the  surviving  members  of 
Wright's  company  deny  any  attemjit  to  use  it,  and  give  as  their  reason  the  very  evident 
fact  that  there  was  no  fun  in  it;  most  of  them  were  there  killing  Indians  for  the  pleas- 
ure of  doing  so,  and  the  use  of  poison  would  have  taken  all  the  amusement  away.  In 
killing  them  with  bullets  and  knives  from  an  ambuscade  all  the  conditions  requisite  to 
pleasure  in  Indian  killing  were  satisfied.  Only  sickly  sentimentalism  could  regret  the 
worst  fate  which  might  be  meted  out  to  such  monsters  of  cruelty  and  wickedness  as 
the  Modocs.  It  is  apparent  that  in  point  of  cruel  vindictiveness  and  unsparing  malig- 
nity they  were  the  worst  savages  who  ever  inhabited  this  coast.  Their  attacks  on  the 
immigrants  were  utterly  causeless,  and  could  have  had  no  motive  except  the  love  of 
diabolical  wickedness,  for  the  property  of  the  whites,  even  their  fire  arms,  was  totally 
useless  to  the  Indians  and  the  captured  women  were  killed.  Hence  the  motives  which 
are  supposed  usually  to  incite  barbarous  men  to  such  deeds  of  murder,  were  wanting. 

The  aspect  of  a  circumstance  which  took  place  at  the  mouth  of  Galice  creek  in 
December,  1852,  and  consisted  in  the  murder,  or  supposed  murder,  of  seven  miners,  is 
very  peculiar.  It  would  appear  that  all  the  evidence  respecting  the  killing  was  derived, 
if  at  all,  from  the  extorted  confession  of  the  supposed  murderers.  The  circumstances, 
as  they  appear  in  perhaps  the  earliest  account,  stand  thus :  William   Grendage,  or 

Grundage,  Peter  Hunter,  James  Bacon, Bacon, Bruner,  William  Allen  and 

Palmer,    miners  at  the  place    mentioned,    were  missed  from  their    accustomed 

haunts  for  several  weeks.  "  Suspicion  was  aroused  against  the  Indians,"  and  when, 
some  weeks  later,  Chief  Taylor,  of  the  Grave  creek  band,  accompanied  by  a  number 
of  his  men,  visited  Vannoy's  ferry  to  trade,  further  suspicion  was  excited  by  the  fact  of 
these  supposed  poverty-stricken  creatures  having  some  gold  dust  about  them  in  larger 
quantity  than  was  usual  (or  allowable,  probably).  They  were  closely  questioned  as  to 
their  mode  of  obtaining  it,  and  also  as  to  the  whereabouts  of  the  supposed  murdered 
men.  They  are  said  to  have  replied  that  the  seven  were  washed  oS  their  claim  during 
high  water  and  drowned.  "  Their  manners  and  explanation  led  to  a  strong  belief  that 
these  Indians  had  murdered  the  missing  miners,  and  an  investigation  proved  that  Tay- 
lor and  his  band  had  murdered  the  entire  ])aYty."  He  and  some  of  his  men  were 
arrested  by  the  citizens,  and  as  there  were  no  courts  yet  organized  in  this  part  of  the 
territory,  they  were  brought  before  a  citizens'  jury,  tried,  convicted  and  sentenced  to  be 
hanged.  Finding  that  the  decree  of  the  court  was  about  to  be  executed,  and  seeing 
no  chance  of  escape,  they  related  the  particulars  of  the  case  themselves  and  boasted  of 
the  share  each  had  taken  in  the  murder  and  robbery.  They  gave  a  minute  account  of 
the  manner  in  which  they  tortured  the  victims  after  they  were  taken  captive,  stabbing 
them  with  knives  and  burning  them  with  fire-brands,  "just  to  see  them  jump."     The 


INDIA.N  WARS.  209 

Iiuliaas  were  liaugeil,  tliougli  Taylor  tried  to  excuse  liiiuself  Ijy  saying  he  only  stabbed 
the  whites  with  a  little  knife,  while  the  others  used  large  ones. 

Thus  runs  the  account,  and  as  it  is  the  only  account  known  to  be  in  existence,  we 
have  an  imjjortant  case  to  consider,  without  any  corroborative  evidence  whatever,  for 
there  were  no  eye-witnesses  to  the  murder  after  the  Indians  had  suffered  for  the  crime. 
There  was  no  investigation  at  all ;  and  if  such  had  been  fully  made  it  might  have 
resulted  in  showing  that  the  seven  missing  miners  had,  with  the  characteristic  rest- 
lessness of  their  class,  i^acked  up  their  tools  and  left  unceremoniously  for  richer  placers, 
some  time  before  they  began  to  be  missed.  It  is  certainly  a  common  enough  proceed- 
ino-  for  miners  to  desert  their  claims  without  giving  notice,  and  possibly  this  is  what 
the  seven  did. 

It  was  in  the  fall  of  1852  that  Fort  Jones,  in  Scott  valley,  Siskiyou  county,  was 
established.  Major  Fitzgerald,  on  returning  from  the  Modoc  country,  somewhat 
before  the  Lost  river  massacre  by  Ben  Wright,  selected  the  site  of  the  new  post,  whose 
first  garrison  was  his  company  of  dragoons.  The  major  being  soon  ordered  hence,  was 
relieved  in  command  of  the  jjost  by  Captain  B.  R.  Alden,  and  he  by  Captain, 
afterwards  Major  General  H.  M.  Judah.  Under  the  latter  were  three  lieutenants,  J. 
C.  Bonnicastle,  George  Crook  and  J.  B.  Hood.  The  two  latter  names  are  now  house- 
hold words  for  the  American  people.  Crook,  as  is  well  known,  fought  well  against 
the  rebellion  and  became  a  major  general  of  volunteers,  and  since  the  war  has  done 
invaluable  service  as  a  subduer  of  Indians,  winning  thereby  a  great  reputation.  Hood 
was  even  more  famous  during  the  civil  war,  and  taking  sides  with  the  south  was  Joe 
Johnston's  successor  in  command  of  the  great  army  that  faced  Sherman  in  his  cele- 
brated Atlanta  campaign  and  was  disastrously  beaten  by  Thomas  at  Nashville.  Gen- 
eral Hood  died  several  years  since. 


CHAPTER    XXV. 

THE    WAR     OF    1853. 

A  Prejudiced  Writer  Criticised— How  the  Indians  Procured  their  Arms— Indian  Characteristics— Their  Allies  Not 
to  be  Depended  on — The  Cow  Creeks  and  Grave  Creeks  in  Trouble— The  Rogue  Rivers  Commit  Outrages — 
Murder  of  Edwards  -An  Indian's  Revenge- -Murder  of  Wills  and  Nolan— Killing  of  Hodgings.  Gibbs,  Smith, 
and  Whitmore — Miners  and  Settlers  Seek  Safety  -Organization  of  a  Military  Force — Californians  Offer  their 
Services— Energetic  Officers  and  Efficient  Troops  -The  Indians  also  Organize— The  First  Fight  an  Indian 
Victory— Lieutenant  Griffin's  Battle  Disgraceful  Atrocities— The  Governor  and  General  Lane  Appealed  to- 
The  Indians  Evacuate  Table  Rock— Ely's  Desperate  Fight  —General  Lane  Arrives  and  Assumes  Command  — 
Disposition  for  a  Campaign— The  Army  Follows  the  Indians  -Finds  Them  -Battle  of  Evans'  Creek — A  Drawn 
Battle— General  Lane  Wounded--A  Peace  Talk— Armistice  Arranged— Casualties. 

A  certain  writer  for  the  public  prints,  -wliile  treating  of  the  condition  of  the  In- 
dian affairs  in  Southern  Oregon  in  the  early  part  of  1853,  made  use  of  the  following 
language : 

"The  summary  justice  dealt  out  to  '  Taylor'  had  the  effect  to  somewhat  check  for 
a  time  the  depredations  of  the  Indians  north  of  the  Siskiyous,  and  they  became  more 
friendly,  and  more  profuse  in  their  expressions  of  good  will  toward  the  whites.  These 
professions  jDroved  only  a  blind,  however,  under  which  the  Indians  matured  plans,  and 
collected  munitions  of  war  for  the  renewal  of  hostilities  on  a  larger  scale.  By  resort- 
ing to  this  ruse,  they  were  enabled  to  augment  their  forces  from  neighboring  tribes, 
and  form  alliances  unsuspected  by  the  whites.  In  the  meantime,  being  allowed  access 
to  the  premises  of  the  settlers,  they  procured  more  or  less  guns  and  pistols  by  theft  or 
otherwise  ;  and  also  to  accumulate  considerable  ammunition.  In  those  days  all  the 
tea  brought  into  the  country  was  put  up  in  lead  caddies,  which  being  emjjtied,  were 
thrown  out  with  the  rubbish,  and  from  this  source  the  Indians  collected  a  very  abund- 
ant supply  of  lead,  and  through  a  few  unjiriueipled  dealers  they  procured  a  large 
amount  of  powder." 

It  may  be  a  pleasing  diversion  to  examine  a  few  of  the  statements  made  with  such 
assurance.  It  is  said  that  the  Indians  began,  in  the  spring  of  1853,  to  court  the 
friendship  of  the  whites.  This  article  evidently  refers  to  the  Rogue  Rivers  almost 
exclusively,  thus  seeming  to  imply  that  this  tribe  had  not  thus  far  been  friendly  to  the 
whites.  Yet  there  is  an  immense  amount  of  first-rate  evidence  to  show  that  this  ti'ibe 
was  on  excellent  terms  with  the  whites  in  1852,  both  before  and  after  the  fight  at  Big 
Bend.  So  quickly  were  the  scars  of  war  healed  that  Sam  and  Joe  felt  highly  aggrieved 
because  they  were  not  invited  to  the  celebration  given  at  Jacksonville  in  honor  of  Cap- 
tain Lamerick  and  his  brave  followers.  Several  highly  respected  pioneer  inhabitants 
of  Jacksonville,  including  two  or  more  ladies,  have  now  (1883)  given  testimony  con- 
cerning the  unvarying  courtesy  and  gentleness  of  the  principal  chiefs  of  the  tribe, 
when  met  in  times  of  peace.     Sam  and  Joe,  they  say,  were  favored  guests  in   private 


INDIAN  WARS.  211 

houses  ;  and  by  their  dignified  and  manly  ways,  won  the  approbation  of  all  who  could 
ajipreciate  their  sim^ile  yet  honorable  character.  They  were,  to  be  sure,  only  ignorant 
and  uncultured  savages,  and  perhaps  entirely  incapable  of  a  high  degree  of  civiliza- 
tion ;  yet  with  proper  treatment  they  remained  harmless  and  peaceable  individuals, 
however  intractable  and  fierce  a  great  part  of  their  tribe  might  have  been.  To  charge 
these  simple  natives,  who  were  merely  children  of  a  larger  growth,  with  such  a  degree 
of  duplicity  as  that  implied  by  the  writer  we  have  quoted,  seems  absurd.  And  at  the 
time  mentioned  nearly  all  the  Rogue  Rivers  were  in  the  habit  of  coming  into  Jack- 
sonville, where  they  begged  food,  fraternized  with  the  lowest  whites,  and  were  friendly 
to  all.  Sam,  Joe,  Tipsu  Tyee,  Queen  Mary,  and  others  were  familiar  figures.  These 
barbarian  aristocrats  were  immeasurably  above  their  subjects,  as  they  never  conde- 
scended to  beg,  but  took  with  ready  grace  what  was  offered.  Their  indignation  was 
quickly  roused  when  their  worth  and  dignity  were  slighted,  and  to  neglect  to  invite 
them  to  eat  at  the  dinner  hour  was  an  offense  which  their  haughty  blood  could  not 
brook.  U^wn  such  occasions  they  would  stalk  indignantly  homeward.  Tipsu  Tyee> 
whose  home  was  in  the  mountains  between  Applegate  and  Bear  creeks,  used  frequently 
to  be  seen  in  Jacksonville.  This  savage,  less  interesting  and  attractive  than  the  others, 
was  a  bugbear  to  the  miners  and  settlers,  because  of  his  occasional  "  insolence"  and 
mysterious  character.  Yet  his  impulses  were  not  all  bad,  as  the  following  anecdote 
will  show.  This  is  given  on  the  authority  of  Henry  Klii^pel,  who  was  an  eye-witness. 
John  Sands,  a  rough  miner,  intoxicated  himself,  and  meeting  Tipsu  Tyee  in  Jack- 
sonville, struck  him  over  the  head  with  a  stick.  The  insulted  savage,  bow  in  hand, 
drew  an  arrow  to  the  head,  and  appeared  about  to  pierce  his  assailant's  heart ;  but  shout- 
ing "Hiyu  lum;  7iika  wake  memeloose  mika!"  lowered  his  bow.  Experts  in  the  Chinook 
jargon  translate  the  above  as  "You  are  very  drunk,  or  I  would  kill  you!"  This  is 
certainly  a  case  of  forbearance  on  the  Indian's  part,  as  he  had  ample  oppoi-tunity  for 
escape  to  his  brushy  kingdom  in  the  hills. 

Such  incidents  and  peculiarities  throw  considerable  light  upon  the  character  of  the 
savages,  and  go  far  to  prove  the  improbability  of  any  such  deep  plots  as  many  have 
ascribed.  Their  schemes  could  not  have  taken  such  a  range  as  we  are  assured  they 
did.  All  that  we  can  allow  in  this  connection  is  that  the  Indians  wei'e  in  time  of  war 
accustomed  to  receive  re-inforcements  from  such  neighboring  tribes  as  were  accustomed 
to  fraternize  with  them  in  time  of  peace.  But  it  should  not  be  supposed  that  this  aid 
was  regularly  granted  or  withheld  by  the  chiefs  or  headmen  of  the  neighboring  tribes, 
for  on  such  occasions  the  young  men  were  accustomed  to  use  their  own  discretion  as  to 
their  individual  acts  of  assistance,  and  were  not  under  sufficiently  strict  command  to  be 
deterred  from  doing  as  they  liked  in  that  regard.  There  is  a  restless  element  in  every 
tribe  and  on  every  reservation,  consisting  chiefly  of  young  braves  desirous  of  achieving 
renown  in  battle,  and  the  history  of  Indian  wars,  almost  without  an  exception,  shows 
that  the  ranks  of  the  hostiles  are  swelled  by  such  volunteers  from  neighboring  tribes, 
without  any  preconcerted  arrangement  being  made;  and,  it  may  be  remarked,  this 
element  seems  at  times  as  willing  to  fight  on  one  side  as  the  other,  and  to  their  assist- 
ance we  owe  many  of  our  greatest  victories  over  hostile  tribes.  The  extent  of  the  aid 
furnished  is  an  important,  but  indeterminate  matter.  It  seems  consistent  with  the 
Indian  cliaracter  that  aid  so  furnished  would  lie  of  a  most  unreliable  sort   indeed.     It 


212  INDIAN  WARS. 

would  most  likely  occur  that  the  volatile  young  warriors  would  desert  the  cause  of 
their  friends  when  the  novelty  of  the  occasion  was  worn  off.  Such  scenes  to  have  been 
the  case  in  the  principal  war  in  Southern  Oregon,  as  we  shall  see.  Before  dismissing 
the  subject  we  may  enunciate  the  broad  general  truth,  that  the  tribes  of  American 
Indians  have  been  found  altogether  unable  to  combine  together  in  the  sense  in  which 
political  combinations  are  spoken  of  It  is  a  significant  fact  that  not  even  Tecumseh 
nor  Pontiac  nor  King  Philip  was  able  to  unite  several  tribes  permanently  against  the 
whites.  Had  the  latter,  with  his  consummate  strategy,  been  able  to  consolidate  the 
New  England  tribes,  the  unavoidable  result  would  have  been  to  exterminate  the  Puri- 
tan colonists  of  that  country.  It  is  true  of  the  Indians  of  New  York  and  generally 
throughout  the  thirteen  original  colonies,  that  in  their  incipiency  a  thorough  union  of 
the  hostile  tribes  would  have  resulted  in  a  total  extinction  of  the  white  inhabitants;  but 
providentially  for  the  pioneers  of  these  now  powerful  and  prosperous  states,  the  Indian 
character  was  incapable  of  such  union.  It  is  true  that  Pontiac,  and  afterwards  Tecumseh 
and  his  brother  the  Prophet,  brought  about  a  sort  of  confederacy  between  the  great 
Indian  tribes  of  the  Ohio  valley ;  but  these  existed  for  but  little  time ;  and  we  may 
conclude  that  if  these  chiefs  of  experience  and  intelligence,  operating  as  they  did  at  a 
great  distance  from  the  whites,  could  not  effectually  unite  the  Indians  of  their  time,  the 
Rogue  River  chiefs,  surrounded  and  watched  by  whites,  most  certainly  could  not  effect 
that  result.  It  appears  consistent  to  allow  only  that  the  Indian  allies  were  but  chance 
visitors  or  errant  warriors  from  neighboring  tribes. 

The  writer  further  says:  "They  procured  more  or  less  guns  and  jjistols  by  theft 
and  otherwise."  Giving  its  due  weight  to  the  word  otherwise,  no  one  can  dispute  that 
assertion.  To  ascribe  procurement  by  theft,  when  it  ls  an  undisputed  fact  that  their 
arms  were  usually  procured  by  a  much  viler  means,  is  to  avoid  a  topic  whose  relative 
importance  excuses  the  indelicacy  of  naming  it.  Every  one  of  experience  knows  that 
the  Indians  often  came  into  possession  of  their  guns,  horses,  ammunition  and  other 
valuables  through  the  sale  of  their  women.  It  is  useless  to  disguise  the  fact.  White 
men  became  the  eager  purchasers,  and  the  Indian  who  had  traded  a  bad  wife  for  a  good 
gun,  felt  equally  the  gainer.  Thus  both  parties  were  satisfied  and  harmony  prevailed. 
But  by  and  by  the  new  found  bride  might  tire  of  her  white  lord,  and  taking  advantage 
of  his  absence,  might  run  away,  seeking  again  the  wigwam  of  her  earliest  love.  In 
such  a  ease  the  impassive  brave  awaited  the  coming  also  of  the  white  Lothario,  whose 
judgment  was  war23ed  by  affection,  and  who  to  regain  the  society  of  his  bright  particu- 
lar star,  would  give  a  second  gun.  Thus  the  Indians  grcAV  rich  in  guns,  while  the 
white  men  found  their  compensation  in  gentle  woman's  blessed  companionship.  Thus 
the  Indian  warriors  placed  themselves  on  a  war  footing,  while  the  whites  were  figura- 
tively sunk  in  luxurious  ease.  This  is  certainly  an  easier  mode  of  providing  arms  and 
munitions  of  war  than  by  theft,  even  were  Sam  and  Joe's  men  such  expert  thieves  as 
certain  individuals  insist. 

Throughout  the  spring  and  the  first  part  of  the  summer  of  1853  little  was  heard 
of  the  depredations  of  the  savages,  only  one  incident  seeming  to  mar  the  ordinary 
relations  of  white  man  and  native.  The  event  referred  to  was  the  murder  of  two  miners, 
one  an  American,  the  other  a  Mexican,  in  their  cabin  on  Cow  creek,  and  the  robbery 
of  their  domicile.     As  a  matter  of  course  the  deed  was  laid  to  Indians  and  probably 


^ 

5 


o 

C/3 


03 
O 

m 
> 


1^. 


/ 


INDIAN  WARS.  213 

justly;  for  the  IndiiUis!  alung  that  creek  had  a  very  bad  reputation.  They  were  of  the 
Umpqua  family,  but  had  independent  chiefs  and  were  tar  more  fierce  and  formidable 
than  the  humble  natives  of  tlie  Umpqua  valley  proper.  They  had  committed  several 
small  acts  of  depredation  on  the  settlers  in  that  vicinity,  such  as  attempting  to  burn 
grain-fields,  out-buildings,  etc.,  but  had  not,  it  appears,  entered  upon  any  more  danger- 
ous work  until  the  killing  referred  to.  The  unfortunate  Grave  creek  band  allowed 
themselves  to  be  mixed  up  in  the  affair,  and  suffered  ill  consequences ;  for  a  party  of 
whites  proceeded  to  their  encampment  and  fired  unceremoniously  into  it,  killing  one 
Indian  and  wounding  another.  The  total  number  of  Grave  Creek  Indians  who  were 
killed  in  consequence  of  their  supposed  complicity  in  the  acts  and  in  the  so-called  mur- 
der on  Galice  creek  previously  spoken  of  was  eleven;  of  whom  six  were  hanged  and 
five  shot.     The  Grave  creek  tribe  was  rapidly  becoming  extinct. 

In  August,  1853,  the  Indians  broke  out  into  open  war,  or  to  limit  this  assertion 
somewhat,  certain  Indians,  indifferently  from  various  bands  of  the  Rogue  Rivers,  com- 
mitted several  bloody  atrocities  in  the  valley,  alarming  the  settlers  and  causing  them  to 
seek  the  protection  of  fortified  places,  while  the  Table  Rock  band  under  Sam  and  Joe,, 
joined  by  several  other  bands,  left  their  pleasant  location  and  retired  to  the  hills  ta 
escape  the  vengeance  of  the  whites  from  whom  their  leaders  wished  to  permanently 
remove. 

On  the  fourth  of  August  the  first  act  of  the  new  era  of  hostilities  took  place, 
being  the  nuirder  of  Edward  Edwards,  an  old  farmer,  residing  on  Bear  creek,  about 
two  and  a  half  miles  below  the  town  site  of  Phojnix.  In  his  absence  the  murderers: 
secreted  themselves  in  his  cabin,  and  on  his  return  at  noon,  shot  him  with  his  own 
gun,  and  after  pillaging  the  house,  fled  to  the  hills.  There  were  but  few  coucerned  in 
the  deed,  and  subsequent  developments  fixed  the  guilt  upon  Indian  Thompson,  who 
was  surrendered  by  the  chiefs  at  Table  Rock,  tried  in  the  United  States  circuit  court  in 
February,  1854,  and  hanged  two  days  later.  According  to  the  prevailing  account  of 
the  circumstances  of  this  murder,  the  deed  was  committed  in  revenge  for  an  act  of 
injustice  perpetrated  on  an  Indian  by  a  Mexican  named  Debusha,  who  enticed  or  ab- 
ducted a  squaw  from  Jim's  village,  and  when  the  chief  and  the  Avoman's  husband  went 
to  reclaim  her  they  were  met  by  threats  of  shooting.  Naturally  disturbed  by  the 
affair,  the  aggrieved  brave  started  upon  a  tour  of  vengeance  against  the  white  race, 
killing  Edwards  and  attempting  other  crimes.  Colonel  Ross,  a  jtrominent  actor  in  the 
events  that  follo^'ed,  identifies  the  murderer  as  Pe-oos-e-cut,  a  nephew  of  Chief  John, 
of  the  Applegates,  and  re^iresents  the  difficulty  substantially  as  above  stated,  adding 
the  particulars  that  Debusha  had  bought  the  squaw,  of  whom  the  Indian  had  been  the 
lover.  She  ran  away  to  a  camp  on  Bear  creek,  and  the  Mexican,  with  Charles  Harris, 
went  to  the  camp  and  took  her  from  Pe-oos-e-cut,  much  to  his  anger  and  grief.  The 
disappointed  lover  next  day  began  venting  his  rage  against  the  whites  by  killing  cattle 
and  also  shot  Edwards  as  described.  No  sooner  had  the  murder  become  known,  than 
other  savages  became  imbued  with  a  desire  to  kill,  and  during  the  following  fortnight 
several  murders  were  committed,  through  treachery  mainly. 

On  August  fifth,  occurred  the  murder  of  Thomas  Wills,  a  member  of  the  firm  of 
Wills  ct  Kyle,  merchants  of  Jacksonville,  who  was  shot  when  near  the  Berry  house, 
on  the  Phd'nix  roa<l,  and  almost  within  the  town  of  Jacksonville.     The  murder  was 


214  INDIAN  WAES. 

committed  at  about  the  hour  of  twilight.  The  report  of  the  Indian's  gun  was  heard, 
as-  well  as  the  wounded  man's  cries,  and  immediately  his  saddle-mule  galloped  into 
town,  with  blood  on  the  saddle.  Men  went  hurriedly  to  his  assistance,  but  saw  no 
Indians.  The  wound  was  through  the  back-bone,  and  necessarily  fatal,  although  the 
victim  lingered  until  August  seventeenth.  Excitement  prevailed  throughout  the  place 
and  every  man  of  Jacksonville's  overflowing  population  armed  himself  and  constituted 
himself  a  member  of  an  impromptu  committee  of  safety.  The  alarm  was  increased 
l)y  a  third  murder  which  took  place  the  following  morning  (August  sixth.)  The  vic- 
tim was  Rhodes  Nolan,  a  miner  on  Jackson  creek,  who,  in  returning  from  town,  at 
sunrise,  after  a  night  of  watching  to  repel  anticipated  assaults,  was  shot  as  he  entered 
his  cabin  door. 

Somewhat  later  than  the  events  mentioned  above,  a  very  serious  murder,  or  per- 
haps it  may  be  called  massacre,  took  place  in  the  upper  part  of  Bear  creek,  resulting 
in  the  death  of  several  persons  aud  the  serious  wounding  of  others.  Tipsu  Tyee 
became  hostile,  probably  in  consequence  of  the  influence  of  the  Indians  in  the  lower 
valley,  and  an  attack  was  made  on  settlers  in  the  vicinity  of  the  site  of  Ashland. 
Tipsu  Tyee  was  not  present  at  this  event,  and  no  evidence  tends  to  show  the  degree  of 
his  participation  therein ;  nor  is  it  material  to  the  story.  A  detached  party  of  his 
band,  under  sub-chief  Sambo,  being  temporarily  encamped  on  Neil  creek  at  the  time 
of  the  Edwards- Wills-Nolan  murders,  excited  the  suspicion  of  the  white  men  newly 
settled  in  the  upper  part  of  Bear  creek  valley  and  on  tributary  streams,  who  united  to 
the  number  of  twelve  and  proceeded  to  the  Indian  camp.  The  whites  being  armed, 
fired  on  the  savages,  who  took  refuge,  as  is  their  invariable  custom,  in  the  brush, 
whence  they  fired  at  the  whites  and  shot  Patrick  Dunn  through  the  left  shoulder  and 
Andrew  Carter  through  the  left  arm.  "  One  Indian  only  is  known  to  have  been 
killed,  and  a  few  slightly  wounded."  According  to  the  accounts  of  interested  parties 
this  action  occurred  on  the  thirteenth  of  August.  On  the  same  day  or  that  following, 
the  Indian  women  and  children  of  the  encamjiment  were  collected  and  taken  to  the 
camp  of  the  whites,  which  was  the  house  of  Messrs.  Alberding  aud  Dunn  (now  the 
General  Tolman  place),  where  a  stockade  had  been  constructed  for  the  protection  of 
the  settlers  and  their  families.  On  the  seventeenth.  Sambo  and  his  Avarriors,  number- 
ino-  a  dozen  or  so,  came  in  voluntarily  and  surrendered  to  the  whites  and  were  pro- 
vided for  and  retained  at  the  "  fort."  Several  families,  including  those  of  Samuel 
Grubb,  Frederick  Heber,  Asa  Fordyce,  Isaac  Hill  and  Robert  Wright,  were  at  this 
station,  besides  several  single  men  whom  the  idea  of  mutual  protection  had  drawn 
there.  Having  ample  confidence  in  the  good  faith  of  their  savage  guests,  no  great 
IDrecautions  were  taken  to  guard  against  surprise,  and  so  the  Indians  had  ample  op- 
portunity for  an  outbreak,  which  they  effected  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-third  of 
Auo-ust,  as  asserted  by  survivors,  but  on  the  seventeenth  as  given  in  various  printed 
records.  On  this  occasion  they  killed  Hugh  Smith,  and  wounded  John  Gibbs,  Wil- 
liam Hodgings  or  Hudgins,  Brice  Whitmore,  Morris  Howell  and  B.  Morris.  Gibbs 
died  soon  after  at  the  stockade  at  Wagner's,  where  the  whites  moved  for  protection  ; 
Hodgings  expired  while  being  taken  to  Jacksonville,  and  Whitmore,  reaching  that 
]-)lace,  died  within  a  few  days.  The  others  recovered,  as  did  Dunn  and  Carter,  pre- 
viously wounded,  both  of  the  men  being  alive  and  well  at  this  day. 


INDIAN  WARS.  215 

111  consequence  of  the  murders  described,  a  spirit  of  alarm  necessarily  spread  itself 
throughout  the  country.  The  miners  ou  Applegate,  Foot's,  and  other  creeks  aban- 
doned their  places  and  come  into  Jacksonville  for  protection.  The  settlers  in  various 
directions  did  the  same,  some  of  those  who  were  better  prejjared,  "  forting  up,"  with  the 
intention  of  resisting  Indian  attacks.  The  people  who  thus  pi-epared  to  defeird  them- 
selves were  gathered  mainly  at  T' Vault's  place  (the  Dardanelles),  N.  C.  Dean's  (Willow 
springs),  Martin  Angell's  (now  Captain  Barnes')  and  Jacob  Wagner's,  in  Upper  Bear 
creek  valley.  As  soon  as  possible  a  military  company  was  formed  in  Jacksonville, 
having  Ben  Armstrong  as  captain,  and  John  F.  Miller,  B.  B.  Griffin  and  Abel  George 
as  lieutenants,  and  Charles  E.  Drew,  quartermaster.  But  within  a  few  days  this  organi- 
zation was  superseded  by  others,  a  company  of  home-guards  taking  the  most  of  the 
men.  This  latter  company  was  under  the  command  of  AV.  W.  Fowler.  A  large  pro- 
portion of  the  houses  outside  of  Jacksonville  were  abandoned  by  the  owners,  and  these 
were  mostly  burned  by  roving  parties  of  natives,  who  were  scattered  for  a  few  days 
over  the  whole  valley. 

The  people  were  compelled  to  seek  assistance  from  wherever  it  might  be  procured 
and  with  this  view  dispatched  messengers  to  Fort  Jones  the  newly  established  military 
post  near  Yreka.  The  messengers  arrived  there  on  the  eighth  of  August,  and  Captain 
B.  R.  Alden,  4th  U.  S.  Infantry,  commanding  Fort  Jones,  instantly  set  out  for  the 
scene  of  hostilities  with  a  very  small  force  of  infantry,  not  more  than  twenty  men  all 
told,  but  with  forty  or  fifty  muskets,  and  a  supply  of  cartridges.  Simultaneously  a 
large  number  of  volunteers  presented  themselves  at  Yreka  and  agreed  to  serve  under 
Captain  J.  P.  Goodall  and  Jacob  Rhoades,  well  known  as  Indian  fighters.  Captain 
Goodall's  company  numbered  ninety  men,  all  mounted,  as  were  those  of  Rhoades'  com- 
pany which  was  about  sixty  strong.  Unfortunately  the  muster-rolls  of  these  two  com- 
panies have  been  lost,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  present  the  names  of  all  the  members. 
Of  Captain  Goodall's  company  a  partial  list  only  is  given,  which  will  be  found  in  its 
ap2:)ropriate  place. 

The  volunteers  raised  in  Southern  (.)regon  were  six  companies  in  all,  having  as 
captains,  R.  L.  Williams,  J.  K.  Lamerick,  John  F.  Miller,  Elias  A.  Owens,  and  W. 
W.  Fowler.  They  were  ordered — with  the  exception  of  Fowler's  company,  which  was 
raised  exclusively  for  the  protection  of  Jacksonville,  and  which  did  no  outside  service — 
to  rendezvous  at  Camp  Stewart.  An  organization  was  here  effected  and  the  troops, 
the  most  formidable,  and  numerous  body  of  men  thus  far  seen  in  this  part  of  Oregon, 
assumed  the  semblance  of  an  army.  Each  volunteer  furnished,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
his  own  riding  animal  and  equipments.  A  quartermaster's  department  was  extem- 
porized for  the  occasion,  and  B.F.Dowell  became  master  of  transportation  or  equivalent 
title.  Captain  Alden,  by  wish  of  the  volunteers,  assumed  command  of  the  whole  force, 
whose  numbers  probably  reached  three  hundred  men.  All  the  volunteers  were  of 
course  without  uniforms,  wearing  merely  their  ordinary  clothes,  and  carrying  rifles  and 
revolvers  as  dissimilar  in  pattern  as  their  own  garments.  Their  saddle  animals  were 
horses  and  mules  indiscriminately.  It  would  be  difficult  to  conceive  a  body  of  soldiery 
of  more  irregular  type  than  the  "army"  at  Camp  Stewart;  but  it  would  be  ecjually 
difficult  to  imagine  a  body  of  men  better  adapted  for  Indian  fighting  in  a  rough  coun- 
try, or  for  that  matter,  in  any  country.     The  seipicl  of  the  short  campaign  wliich  they 


216  INDIAN  WARS. 

carried  on  showed  conclusively  that  with  energetic  and  reliable  commanders  they  were 
capable  of  the  greatest  services.  The  successful  issue  of  their  expedition  it  would  seem 
was  due  to  the  energy  and  vigor  with  which  their  leaders  moved  upon  the  foe,  and 
having  found  him,  fought  him  relentlessly. 

Meanwhile,  the  malcontents  who  were  scattered  about  the  valley  doing  much  dam- 
age in  the  way  of  burning  houses,  barns,  fences,  etc.,  left  that  employment  and  sought 
security  with  Joe,  Sam  and  other  chiefs,  who  were  gathered  at  Table  Rock,  making 
what  preparations  they  could  against  the  threatened  attack  of  the  whites.  They  selected 
a  naturally  strong  position  and  fortified  it  with  considerable  skill,  digging  a  ditch, 
rearing  a  wall  of  rocks  and  earth,  and  otherwise  strengthening  the  place.  They  were 
reported  to  be  in  strong  force,  numbering  not  less  than  300  (an  exaggeration,  doubtless), 
and  consisting  of  the  Table  Rock  band,  and  the  subsidiary  bands  of  Jim  and  Jake 
(the  Butte  Creek  Indians),  with  the  Applegates  and  a  few  Grave  Creeks.  These  minor 
bands  had  been  worse  treated  by  the  whites  than  had  the  Table  Rock  Indians,  and  in 
consequence  were  much  worse  affected  toward  them,  and  as  a  result  they  entered  into 
the  coming  contest  with  alacrity.  The  attitude  of  Tipsu  Tyee  was  a  subject  of  anxiety 
to  the  endangered  whites,  but  much  to  their  surprise  this  Indian  refrained  entinely  from 
hostilities  throughout  the  war,  which  would  have  been  thought  a  fitting  opportunity 
for  his  hatred  to  vent  itself.  But  he  kept  aloof  from  either  party,  doubtless  fearing  the 
whites  less  than  the  defection  of  the  lukewarm  chiefs,  Sam  and  Joe,  who  were  deemed 
likely  to  accejjt  the  first  overtures  on  the  part  of  the  whites.  Be  the  cause  what  it 
may,  he  remained  personally  in  seclusion  until  after  the  close  of  hostilities. 

From  the  eighth  to  the  sixteenth  of  August,  movements  were  made  with  a  view 
of  ascertaining  the  savages'  whereabouts,  and  the  vicinity  of  Table  Rock  was  recon- 
noitered,  when  it  was  found  that  they  had  abandoned  their  position  and  retired  to  the 
north  or  west.  Their  trail  showed  that  they  were  in  great  force  and  nearly  the  whole 
tribe  were  together.  They  had  sent  out  their  scouts,  and  up  to  this  time  knew  every 
move  of  the  whites.  They  declared  themselves  satisfied  to  await  the  decision  of  war- 
fare, and  that  they  would  fight  until  every  white  man  was  driven  from  the  valley. 
Such  bold,  defiant  talk  naturally  produced  a  great  effect  upon  the  whites,  who  were  imbued 
with  a  sense  of  the  fighting  qualities  of  the  Indians,  and  added  to  the  anxiety  of  many  for 
their  families  increased  the  feeling  of  apprehension  throughout  the  valley.  This  feel- 
ing was  heightened  by  the  news  of  an  engagement,  the  first  of  the  war,  between  a 
party  of  whites  under  Lieutenant  Burrell  B.  Griffin,  of  Miller's  company,  and  a  party 
of  Indians  under  the  redoubtable  Old  John.  This  fight  occurred  on  the  twelfth  of 
August,  on  Applegate  creek,  near  the  mouth  of  Williams'  creek  (subsequently  so 
named).  The  lieutenant,  with  some  twenty  men,  had  reached  the  main  Applegate,  at 
the  mouth  of  Little  Applegate,  and  proceeding  thence  to  Sterling  creek,  destroyed  an 
Indian  village.  Some  little  resistance  was  experienced,  and  Private  George  Anderson 
was  wounded  in  the  hip.  Moving  down  to  Williams'  creek,  the  next  day,  an  Indian 
band  was  found  and  followed,  and  when  several  miles  up  that  stream,  the  men  were 
ambushed  by  their  wily  foes  and  defeated  with  the  loss  of  two.  Lieutenant  Griffin 
severely  wounded  in  the  right  leg,  and  Private  Francis  Garnett  killed.  The  engage- 
ment, which  lasted  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  was  closely  contested,  and  bravely  and 
skillfully  fought.     The  Indians,  better  sheltered  than  the  whites,  met  with  a  heavier 


Times  Printing  Building, Ghas.Nickell. Proprietor. 

Jacksonville. 


INDIAN  WARS.  217 

loss,  as  they  acknowledged  five  killed  and  wounded.  The  soldiers  were  compelled  to 
retreat  finally,  leaving  the  battle-field  to  the  Indians.  The  savages  probably  outnum- 
bered the  whites  by  at  least  two  to  one,  and  had  the  additional  advantage  of  being  at 
home.  But  more  than  anything  else  that  contributed  to  this  success  was  the  fact  that 
Old  John,  their  redoubtable  war  chief,  led  them,  and  by  his  strategy  and  foresight 
secured  a  victory.  If  their  chief  was  so  warlike  the  individual  warriors  of  his  baud 
were  hardly  less  so.  Of  one  of  them,  "  Bill,"  who  was  wounded  at  the  fight  on  Wil- 
liams' creek.  General  Lane  once  said  that  he  never  met  a  braver  man  in  peace  or  war. 
Their  opponents,  without  in  the  least  recognizing  the  valor  and  shrewdness  of  John 
and  his  band,  sought  to  explain  Griffin's  defeat  by  asserting  that  the  hostiles  num- 
bered from  three  hundred  to  five  hundred — which  is  a  palpable  absurdity.  Probably 
there  were  not  more  than  fifty  Indians  present  at  the  fight,  nor  were  more  required. 

John  E.  Harding  (or  Harden)  and  William  R.  Rose,  of  Lamerick's  company 
wei-e  killed  on  August  tenth,  near  Willow  Springs,  The  two,  with  one  or  more  com- 
jtanions,  were  on  detached  service,  or,  according  to  other  accounts,  were  proceeding  to 
Jacksonville ;  when  having  reached  a  point  a  mile  north  of  the  springs  they  were 
fired  on  by  Indians  concealed  near  the  road,  and  Rose  was  killed,  and  Harding  was 
shot  through  the  hips.  ,  He  escaped,  as  did  the  others,  but  died  on  August  fourteenth 
(some  accounts  relate  that  he  died  in  eleven  hours).  Rose's  body  falling  by  the  way- 
side, was  stripped  and  mutilated,  the  throat  cut  and  an  eye  gouged  out ;  six  hundred 
dollars  upon  his  person  were  taken,  and  his  saddle  horse  also. 

Other  incidents  of  the  eventful  period  preceding  Lane's  campaign  of  August 
21-25,  were  the  capture  and  shooting  of  a  suspected  Indian  by  Angus  Brown,  the 
hanging  of  an  Indian  child  in  the  town  of  Jacksonville,  and  other  acts  of  that  nature, 
which  reflect  no  credit  upon  those  engaged  therein.  That  stern-visaged  war  had 
wrought  up  people  to  deeds  of  this  sort,  is  not  very  remarkable.  Five  Indians,  it  is 
credibly  reported,  were  hanged  in  one  day,  on  a  tree  which  stood  near  David  Linn's 
residence. 

On  the  fourteenth  of  August  a  Mr.  Ettlinger  was  dispatched  north,  with  letters 
to  the  governor  of  Oregon  and  to  other  parties,  setting  forth  the  condition  of  affairs 
and  soliciting  aid  to  prosecute  the  war.  General  Lane  lieard  the  news  when  at  his 
home  on  Deer  creek,  and  instantly  set  about  raising  volunteers.  Fifty  men  joined  his 
jiarty,  and  with  these  he  set  out  and  traveled  rapidly  to  the  scene  of  hostilities.  On 
arriving  at  Camp  Stewart  he  found  the  main  part  of  the  troops  there,  together  with 
Captain  Alden  and  his  regulars.  The  command  of  all  was  tendered  to  the  General  by 
Captain  Alden,  and  by  him  accepted.  Preparations  for  moving  on  the  enemy  had  been 
made,  and  an  active  campaign  was  resolved  upon. 

On  or  about  the  fifteenth,  a  detachment  under  Hardy  Ellift'  was  sent  to  the  rear  of 
the  enemy's  position  behind  Table  Rock,  in  order  to  provoke  an  engagement ;  but  their 
position  had  been  evacuated,  and  the  hostiles  had  withdrawn.  On  August  sixteenth  a 
detachment  of  Goodall's  company  was  sent  out,  consisting  of  twenty-two  jjicked  men, 
commanded  by  Lieutenant  E.  Ely,  with  the  design  of  discovering  the  enemy's  where- 
abouts. So  well  did  they  perform  their  duty,  that  on  arriving  at  Little  INIeadows,  on 
Evans'  or  Battle  creek,  they  ran  upon  the  savages  and  lost  several  men  in  one  of  the 
sharpest  skirmishes  that  has  been  known  in  the  annals  of  Indian  warfare.     The  scene 


218  INDIAN  WAES. 

of  the  collision  was  some  two  miles  northwest  of  Table  Rock,  and  about  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  mouth  of  the  stream  which  flows  into  Kogue  river  at  the  village  now 
called  Woodville.  It  was  on  the  seventeenth  of  August ;  the  men  had  picketed  their 
horses  in  the  flat  and  sat  down  to  enjoy  dinner ;  sentries  were  stationed,  but  soon  left 
their  posts  and  gathered  with  the  rest  around  the  smoking  viands.  Just  at  this  bliss- 
ful moment  there  came  a  volley  of  bullets  from  a  fringe  of  willows  close  by,  that 
killed  and  wounded  ten  of  their  number.  Leaving  their  horses  they  rushed  to  cover 
250  yards  away,  and  gaining  a  strong  jiosition  in  the  brush  and  amid  fallen  trees,  they 
kept  the  savages  at  bay.  They  fought  the  enemy  in  true  Indian  style,  from  behind 
the  protection  of  trees  and  rocks,  and  probably  inflicted  considerable  injury.  Privates 
Terrell  and  McGonigle  set  out  for  help,  and  before  the  enemy  had  completely  sur- 
rounded them  got  away  and  hastened  to  Camp  Stewart,  where  Goodall's  company  was 
stationed,  and  reported  that  they  had  found  the  Indians,  and  that  ten  men  with  Lieu- 
tenant Ely  were  in  a  precarious  situation,  seventeen  miles  off"  and  the  Indians  hi-as 
sollux. 

Goodall  and  his  men  set  out  at  top  speed,  and  in  the  shortest  practicable  time 
arrived  on  the  field.  J.  D.  Carly  and  five  others  were  in  the  advance,  and  when  the 
Indians  saw  them  they  decamped  at  once,  carrying  away  eighteen  horses,  blankets, 
etc.  The  casualties  inflicted  on  Ely's  men  were  found  to  be — Sergeant  Frank  Perry 
and  Privates  P.  Keith,  A.  Douglas,  A.  C.  Colbourn,  L.  Stukting,  and  William  Neff 
killed  outright ;  and  Lieutenant  Ely  and  Privates  Zebulon  Sheets,  John  Alban  and 
James  Carroll  wounded.  Carl  Vogt,  a  German,  is  said  to  have  been  killed  at  this 
fight,  although  his  name  is  not  to  be  found  in  any  official  documents  relating  to  tlie 
killed  in  the  war.  The  Indians  had  fallen  back,  and  the  main  force  under  Captain 
Alden  came  uj)  during  the  night,  and  all  camj^ed  on  the  flat.  The  next  morning  the 
dead  were  buried  with  the  honors  of  war.  Scouts  sent  out  reported  that  the  Indians 
had  retired  a  long  distance  into  the  mountains,  setting  fire  to  the  woods  in  their  rear, 
and  almost  obliterating  their  trail.  It  was  decided  by  the  council  of  officers  that  it 
was  necessary  to  return  to  headquarters  and  recruit  with  jerked  beef  and  other  frontier 
relishes  in  preparation  for  still  more  arduous  duties.  This  was  done ;  and  General 
Lane  most  opportunely  appearing,  received  the  command  of  the  whole  army,  as  has 
been  related. 

The  commander-in-chief  made  the  following  disposition  of  his  forces.  The  com- 
panies of  Miller  and  Lamerick,  composing  a  battalion  in  charge  of  Colonel  Ross,  were 
ordered  to  proceed  down  Rogue  river  to  the  mouth  of  Evans'  creek,  and  thence  up  that 
stream  to  the  supposed  vicinity  of  the  enemy,  or  to  a  junction  with  Captain  Aldeu's 
command,  which  consisted  of  his  regulars  and  the  two  California  companies  of  Goodall 
and  Rhoades.  This  division  was  ordered  to  proceed  up  Trail  creek  to  the  battle  ground 
where  Ely  was  found  by  the  Indians.  The  orders  were  to  find  the  enemy's  trail  and 
pursue  it  regardless  of  the  whereabouts  of  the  other  battalion.  General  Lane  himself 
proceeded  with  Captain  Aldeu's  division.  Scouts  reported  late  in  the  day  of  starting 
that  the  Indians  had  taken  to  the  mountains  west  and  north  of  Evans'  creek;  hence  the 
general  ordered  a  halt  and  the  forces  encamped  for  the  night.  Early  on  the  following 
day  (August  23),  the  line  of  march  was  taken  up  and  the  Indian  trail  was  followed 
through  a  very  difficult  country,  mountainous,  precipitous  and  bushy,  where  there  was 


INDIAN  WARS.  219 

constant  prospect  of  going  astray,  as  the  trail  left  by  the  savages  was  very  dim  and 
nearly  obliterated  by  fire.     Late  in  the  afternoon,  having  crossed  a  high  mountain,  the 
command  reached  a  branch  of  Evans'  creek  and  halted  for  the  night.     The  horses  were 
allowed  to  feed  on  the  bulrushes  which  grew  by  the  side  of  the  stream  and  which  alone 
had  escaped  the  forest  fires.     Indian  "sign"  had  been  noticed,  it  being  small  patches 
of  ground  left  unburned,  recently  killed  game,  etc.,  thus  indicating  the  proximity  of  the 
enemy.     On  the  morning  of  the  twenty-fourth,  a  shot  was  heard,  which  was  known  to 
come  from  the  Indian  camp.    Scouts  came  in  directly  afterward  and  reported  the  enemy 
encamped  in  a  thick  wood  filled  with  underbrush,  and  apparently  impenetrable  to 
horses.     General  Lane  decided  to  attack  instantly.    Captain  Alden  insisted  on  leading 
the  advance  with  his  little  force  of  regulars,  and  the  whole  command  (with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  detachment  of  ten  men  under  Lieutenant  Blair  of  the  Humbug  volunteers, 
who  were  sent  to  turn  the  enemy's  flank)  precipitated  themselves  on  the  enemy's  posi- 
tion.    The  first  intimation  that  the  savages  had  of  the  ajjproach  of  the  army  (which 
they  doubtless  thought  still  at  Camp  Stewart),  was  a  volley  of  bullets.     They  were  not 
stampeded  by  this  rough  salute,  however,  but  catching  up  their  guns,  entered  with  zest 
into  the  fight,  while  the  squaws  and  other  impediamenta  were  sent  out  of  harm's  way. 
A  small  force  having  been  sent  down  a  ridge  to  jirevent  the  enemy's  escape  in  that 
direction,  all  the  remaining  volunteers  were  brought  into  action  in  the  Indians'  front, 
and  each  man  selecting  a  tree,  got  behind  it  and  fired  at  the  enemy,  who  were  equally 
well  concealed.     The  result  was  that  the  casualties  were  not  very  numerous.     Captain 
Alden  was  wounded  early  in  the  fight,  and  his  regulars  had  difficulty  in   preserving 
him  from  the  Indians,  who  attempted  his  capture  as  he  lay  upon  the  ground     The 
soldiers  kept  them  at  bay,  however,  until  the  wounded  officer  was  removed  to  the  shelter 
of  trees.     Pleasant  Armstrong,  of  Yamhill  county,  a  much  respected  gentleman  who 
had  volunteered  with  his  friend  General  Lane,  was  mortally  wounded  by  a  bullet  in 
the  breast  and  fell,  it  is  said,  exclaiming,  "A  dead  center  shot!"     The  fight  was  very 
warm,  and  had  lasted  for  an  hour,  when  the  pack  trains  arrived  with  their  guard. 
Leaving  fifteen  men  to  guard  the  animals,  General  Lane  took  command  of  the  others, 
not  more  than  ten  in  number,  and  ordered  a  charge,  to  drive   the  natives  from   their 
cover.     Being  in  advance  he  approached  within  thirty  yards  of  the  nearest  Indians, 
when  he  received  a  severe  bullet  wound  through  the  right  arm.     Still  exposing  him- 
self, he  was  forcibly  dragged  back  behind  a  tree,  where  he  continued  to  direct  the  fight. 
He  gave  orders  to  extend  the  line  of  battle  so  as  to  i)revent  the  Indians  from  outflank- 
ing his  force,  and  feeling  the  loss  of  blood,  retired  temporarily  to  have  his  wound 
attended  to.     The  savages  still  held  their  strong  position,  and  it  was  thought  that  they 
could  not  be  driven  from  it.     At  this  juncture  the  Indians,  having  found  that  General 
Lane  was  in  command  of  the  whites,  began  to  call  to  him  and  to  the  soldiers,  professing 
their  readiness  to  treat  for  peace.     A  close  wa-wa  seemed  very  desirable  to  them,  as 
they  could  not  get  away,  and  did  not  wish  to  risk  further  attacks.     Robert  Metcalf, 
sub-agent  for  the  Indians,  went  to  their  camp,  and  through  him  and  others  negotiations 
were  commenced.  General  Lane  having  returned  to  the  front.     Not  wishing  to  inform 
the  savages  of  his  wound,  the  general  went  among  them,  having  thrown  a  heavy  coat 
over  his  shoulders  so  as  to  conceal  his  arm.     In  spite  of  pain  and  inconvenience  he 
conversed  with   the  Indians  throughout   an   interminable  peace  talk,  and   ultimately 


220  INDIAN  WARS. 

agreed  with  them  upou  terms  for  a  cessation  of  hostilities.  No  definite  arrangements 
were  made  upon  the  occasion,  but  it  was  agreed  between  Chief  Joe,  who  was  in  charge 
of  the  Indian  force,  Sam  being  absent,  that  a  fijial  peace  talk  should  be  held  at  Table 
Rock,  within  a  few  days;  and  that  the  Indians  should  proceed  there  in  a  body  and 
await  the  results  of  the  conference.  Seven  days  were  agreed  upon  as  the  duration  of 
the  armistice,  after  which  the  natives  were  to  deliver  up  their  arms  to  General  Lane, 
and  go  upon  the  reservation  at  Table  Rock  which  was  to  be,  and  afterwards  was  duly 
set  off. 

During  the  following  night  both  sides  received  accession  to  their  forces,  Colonel 
Ross  arriving  with  the  battalion,  and  Chief  Sam  coming  in  with  about  half  the  war- 
riors, with  whom  he  had  been  reconnoitering  for  a  permanent  camp.  It  seems  that  as 
soon  as  the  engagement  began,  runners  were  sent  out  by  Joe  to  apprise  his  brother  of 
the  state  of  affairs  and  hasten  his  return.  The  distance  prevented  his  arrival  in  time 
to  take  part  in  the  fight,  and  his  braves  had  no  opportunity  to  display  their  valor.  It 
is  the  oisinion  of  many  who  took  part  in  that  battle,  that  Joe's  deliberate  intention  was 
to  throw  the  whites  off  their  guard  by  professions  of  peace,  and  having  done  so  to  re- 
commence hostilities  at  a  time  when  all  the  advantages  were  with  his  side.  It  is  possi- 
ble that  he  was  only  waiting  for  Sam's  braves  in  order  to  commence  a  massacre  of  hun- 
dreds of  sleeping  volunteers.  It  would  be  in  consonance  with  the  Indian  character  to 
act  in  that  manner,  therefore  it  may  have  been  providential  that  Ross'  battalion  arrived 
when  it  did. 

Peace  and  good-will  reigned  between  white  and  red  man  when  war's  stern  alarms 
were  so  quickly  changed  into  the  piping  of  peace,  and  in  figurative  language  the  lion 
and  the  lamb  lay  down  together.  The  Indian  ponies  and  the  American  hor.ses  were 
turned  loose  to  browse,  and  the  Indians  furnished  a  relief  party  to  assist  in  bringing  in 
the  American  wounded.  They  themselves  owned  to  a  loss  of  twelve  killed  and  wounded, 
which  is  very  likely,  considering  the  superior  excellence  of  white  men's  marksmanship. 
John  Scarborough,  of  the  Yreka  volunteers,  and  P.  Armstrong,  aids  to  the  general, 
were  killed,  and  General  Lane,  Captain  Alden,  privates  Thomas  Hays  (Humbug  vol- 
unteers), and  Henry  Flesher  and  Charles  Abbe  (Yreka  volunteers)  were  wounded,  the 
latter  mortally.  Captain  Alden  died  two  years  later  from  the  result  of  his  wound,  and 
General  Lane  never  quite  recovered  from  his  own  hurt. 

As  soon  as  the  terms  of  the  armistice  were  arranged,  the  troops  took  up  their  march 
homeward  and  went  into  camp  at  Hailey's  (Bybee's)  ferry,  giving  the  location  the  name 
of  Camp  Alden,  in  honor  of  the  gallant  Major. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

THE  LANE  TREATY   OF  PEACE  AND    CONCLUDING    EVENTS  OF  1853. 

Arrival  of  Reinforcements— The  Army  at  Camp  Alden— An  Incident— The  Council  at  Table  Rock— The  Treaty 
of  Peace  Signed— Cession  of  the  Indians'  Lands— Muster-Rolls  of  Certain  Companies— List  of  the  Killed 
and  Wounded— Public  Sentiment  Concerning  the  Treaty  -Ill-Faith  of  Certain  Whites— Tragedy  at  Bates- 
House— Affairs  on  Illinois  River— Cruelty  of  the  Miners  at  Randolph— Indian  Atrocities— Murder  of  Frizzell 
and  Mungo— War  on  Deer  Creek-  General  Lane  Visits  Tipsu  Tyee— Military  Affairs— Fort  Lane  Begun— 
Murder  of  Kyle— Expedition  to  the  Modoc  Country— The  United  States  Pays  the  War  Debt. 

Reiuforcements  began  to  arrive  from  various  quarters  by  the  time  the  forces 
returned  to  the  valley.  Ettlinger  had  faithfully  performed  his  duty,  and  presented 
the  governor  with  memorials  from  citizens  and  officials  of  Jacksonville  and  vicinity, 
which  set  forth  the  dangerous  condition  of  affairs  and  appealed  for  help.  Among 
other  things  a  howitzer  was  asked  for,  and  this  request  was  referred  by  the  governor 
to  the  authorities  at  Fort  Vancouver,  who  sent  the  weapon  with  a  supply  of  ammuni- 
tion, forty  muskets  with  accoutrements,  4,000  cartridges,  and  some  other  articles. 
Lieutenant  Kautz,  since  general,  was  sent  in  charge  of  the  howitzer,  with  seven  experi- 
enced men.  Acting  Governor  Curry  made  proclamation  for  an  armed  guard  of  citizen 
volunteers  to  accompany  the  Lieutenant  and  his  charge.  In  obedience  to  the  call  forty- 
one  men  volunteered,  and  led  by  J.  W.  Nesmith,  with  Lafayette  Grover  as  lieutenant, 
hastened  to  the  scene  of  hostilities.  Lieutenant  Grover  went  in  advance  with  twenty 
men,  and  was  joined  at  South  Umpqua,  on  September  first,  by  Judge  M.  P.  Deady, 
who  was  on  his  way  to  Jacksonville  to  hold  court.  The  next  night  they  stopped  at 
Levens'  station,  and  a  day  or  two  later  came  to  Table  Rock,  too  late  to  be  of  service, 
but  in  time  to  assist  at  the  peace  talk.  Joel  Palmer,  superintendent  of  Lidian  affairs 
in  Oregon,  and  Samuel  H.  Culver,  government  Indian  agent,  successor  of  Judge  Skin- 
ner, who  had  resigned  his  charge,  also  arrived.  From  Port  Orford  came  Captain  A. 
J.  Smith,  with  his  comjiany  of  the  first  dragoons,  sixty  men  in  uniform,  an  imjjosing 
and  unfamiliar  sight  to  the  peojile  of  the  valley.  These  had  slowly  and  laboriously 
toiled  through  devious  trails,  over  fallen  trees  and  through  the  almost  impenetrable 
wildwood  tangles  along  Rogue  river  to  where  their  assistance  might  be  needed,  but 
only  to  find  their  services  useless,  unless  it  was  to  awe  the  haughty  savage  whose  heart 
was  yet  divided  in  its  councils.  Owing  to  Palmer's  failure  to  arrive  at  the  time  ap- 
pointed, the  peace  talk  was  postponed  until  September  tenth.  Meantime  the  volunteers 
lay  about  headquarters  talking  over  occurrences  of  the  past  fortnight  and  speculating 
upon  those  to  come.  They  were  400  strong,  and  had  little  need  to  fear  the  results 
of  future  deliberations.  Besides,  Smith  and  Kautz  were  at  hand  and  the  former's 
sabres  and  the  hitter's  twelve-pound  howitzer  with  its  shells,  spherical  case  shot  and 
cannister,  would  soon   make  short  work   of  the  comparatively  defenseless  aborigines. 


222  INDIAN  WAES. 

The  latter,  too,  talked  aud  thougbt  of  the  new  disijeusation  of  affairs,  and  looked  with 
wonder  and  awe  upon  such  preparations  for  their  injury,  and  begged  General  Lane — 
"  Tyee  Joe  Lane  " — not  to  have  the  luj-as  rife  fired,  which  took  "  a  hat-full  of  powder 
and  would  shoot  a  tree  down." 

The  inevitable  w'ar  correspondent  was  abroad,  even  in  that  day,  and  under  the 
title  of  "  Socks  "  wrote  to  the  Statesman  of  his  visit  to  headquarters : 

"  Never  having  seen  General  Lane  my  curiosity  prompted  me  to  visit  his  camp 
day  before  yesterday.  Having  seen  generals  in  the  States  togged  out  in  epaulets,  gold 
lace,  cocked  hats  and  long,  shining  swords,  I  expected  to  find  something  of  the  kind 
at  headquarters.  But  fancy  my  surj^rise  on  being  introduced  to  a  robust,  good-looking 
middle-aged  man,  with  his  right  arm  in  a  sling,  the  shirt  sleeve  slit  ojaen  and  dangling 
bloody  from  his  shoulder,  his  legs  incased  in  an  old  pair  of  gray  breeches  that  looked 
like  those  worn  by  General  Scott  when  he  was  exposed  to  the  '  fire  in  the  rear.'  One 
end  of  them  was  supported  by  a  buckskin  strap,  in  place  of  a  susjjender,  while  one  of 
the  legs  rested  upon  the  remains  of  an  old  boot.  His  head  was  ornamented  by  a  for- 
age cap  that  from  its  appearance  recalled  remembrance  of  Braddock's  defeat.  This 
comjjosed  the  uniform  of  the  hero  '  who  never  surrenders.' 

"  The  '  quarters'  were  in  keeping  with  the  garb  of  the  occupant ;  it  being  a  rough 
log  cabin  about  sixteen  feet  square,  with  a  hole  in  one  side  for  a  door,  and  destitute  of 
floor  and  chimney.  In  one  corner  lay  a  pile  of  sacks  filled  with  provisions  for  the 
troops,  in  another  a  stack  of  guns  of  all  sizes,  from  the  old  French  musket  down  to 
the  fancy  silver-mounted  sporting  rifle,  while  in  a  third  set  a  camp  kettle,  a  frying-pan, 
a  coffee  pot  minus  the  spout,  a  dozen  tin  cups,  four  pack  saddles,  a  dirty  shirt  and  a 
moccasin.  The  fourth  corner  was  occupied  by  a  pair  of  blankets  said  to  be  the  gen- 
eral's bed  ;  and  on  a  projecting  puncheon  lay  ammunition  for  the  stomach  in  the  shape 
of  a  chunk  of  raw  beef  and  a  wad  of  dough.  In  the  center  of  the  '  quarters'  was  a 
space  about  four  feet  square  for  the  accommodation  of  guests.  Such  being  the  luxuries 
of  a  general's  quarters  you  may  judge  how  privates  have  fared  in  this  war." 

A  pleasant  incident  of  the  stay  at  Camp  Alden  was  the  flag  presentation.  The 
ladies  of  Yreka  had  decided  to  honor  the  braves  of  that  locality  who  had  so  promptly 
volunteered  in  defense  of  their  neighbors  across  the  line,  and  had  prepared  flags  and 
sent  them  through  Dr.  Gatliff  to  Camp  Alden.  The  doctor  gave  them  to  General 
Lane,  and  a  ceremony  was  arranged  for  the  afternoon  of  September  first.  The  two 
companies  of  Rhoades  and  Goodall,  escorted  by  Terry's  Crescent  City  Guards  (an 
independent  organization  which  volunteered  to  fight  Indians,  but  performed  no  service 
owing  to  the  abrupt  close  of  the  war),  were  marched  up,  and  with  ap^sropriate  words 
the  General  presented  the  banners. 

On  the  tenth  of  September  the  leaders  of  opposing  races  met  at  the  appointed 
place  on  the  side  of  Table  Rock  and  discussed  aud  agreed  upon  terms  of  peace.  The 
occasion  was  a  remarkable  one;  and  brought  together  many  remarkable  individuals. 
]\Iany  of  those  who  were  eye-witnesses  of  the  "peace-talk"  still  live,  and  several  have 
attained  to  honor  and  distinction.  From  the  pens  of  two  of  these  we  have  life-like 
and  intelligible  accounts  of  that  meeting  which  was  in  some  respects  the  most  remark- 
able occurence  that  ever  took  \A-aq.q  in  Southern  Oregon.  Judge  M.  P.  Deady  wrote 
concerning  it : 


INDIAN  WARS.  223 

"  The  scene  of  this  famous  '  peace  talk '  between  Joseph  Lane  and  Indian  Joseph — 
two  men  who  had  so  lately  met  in  mortal  combat — was  worthy  of  the  pen  of  Sir 
Walter  Scott  and  the  j^encil  of  Salvator  Koss.  It  was  on  a  narrow  bench  of  a  long, 
gently-sloping  hill  lying  over  against  the  noted  bluff  called  Table  Rock.  The  ground 
was  thinly  coverd  with  majestic  old  pines  and  rugged  oaks,  with  here  and  there  a  clump 
of  green  oak  bushes.  About  a  half  mile  above  the  bright  mountain  stream  that  threaded 
the  narrow  valley  below  sat  the  two  chiefs  in  council.  Lane  was  in  fatigue  dress,  the 
arm  which  was  wounded  at  Buena  Yista  in  a  sling  from  a  fresh  bullet  wound  received 
at  Battle  creek.  Indian  Joseph,  tall,  grave  and  self-possessed,  wore  a  long  black  robe 
over  his  ordinary  dress.  By  his  side  sat  Mary,  his  favorite  child  and  faithful  compan- 
ion, then  a  comparatively  handsome  young  woman,  unstained  with  the  vices  of  civiliza- 
tion. Around  these  sat  on  the  grass  Captain  A.  J.  Smith — now  General  Smith  of  St. 
Louis — whohad  just  arrived  from  Port  Orford  with  his  com^jany  of  the  First  Dragoons ; 
Captain  Alvord,  then  engaged  in  the  construction  of  a  military  road  through  the 
Umpqua  canyon  and  since  j^ay  master  of  the  tJ.  S.  A.;  Colonel  Bill  Martin  of  Urapqua, 
Colonel  John  E.  Ross  of  Jacksonville  and  a  few  others.  A  short  distance  above  us  on 
the  hillside  were  some  hundreds  of  dusky  warriors  in  fighting  gear,  reclining  quietly 
on  the  ground. 

"  The  day  was  beautiful.  To  the  east  of  us  rose  abruptly  Table  Rock  and  at  its 
base  stood  Smith's  dragoons,  waiting  anxiously  with  hand  on  horse  the  issue  of  this 
attempt  to  make  peace  without  their  aid.  After  a  proposition  was  discussed  and  settled 
between  the  two  chiefs,  the  Indian  would  rise  up  and  communicate  the  matter  to  a  huge 
warrior  who  reclined  at  the  foot  of  a  tree  quite  near  us.  Then  the  latter  rose  up  and 
communicated  the  matter  to  the  host  above  him,  and  they  belabored  it  back  and  forth 
with  many  voices.  Then  the  warrior  communicated  the  thought  of  the  multitude  on 
the  subject  back  to  his  chief;  and  so  the  discussion  went  on  until  an  understanding  was 
finally  reached.  Then  we  separated — the  Indians  going  back  to  their  mountain  retreat, 
and  the  whites  to  the  camp." 

J.  W.  Nesmith,  who  was  present  and  quite  prominent  at  the  treaty,  has  left  some 
additional  particulars  of  interest.     He  says : 

"  Early  in  the  morning  of  the  tenth  of  September,  we  rode  toward  the  Indian 
encampment.  Our  party  consisted  of  the  following  persons:  General  Lane,  Joel  Palmer 
Samuel  Culver,  Captain  A.  J.  Smith,  1st  Dragoons ;  Captain  L.  F.  Mosher,  adjutant  ; 
Colonel  John  Ross,  Captain  J.  W.  Nesmith,  Lieutenant  A.  V.  Kautz,  R.  B.  Metcalf, 
J.  D.  Mason,  T.  T.  Tierney.  After  riding  a  couple  of  miles  we  came  to  where  it  waa 
too  steep  for  horses  to  ascend,  and  dismounting,  we  proceeded  on  foot.  Half  a  mile  of 
scrambling  over  rocks  and  through  brush  brought  us  into  the  Indians'  stronghold,  just 
under  the^  perpendicular  cliflf  of  Table  Rock  where  were  gathered  hundreds  of  fierce 
and  well  armed  savages.  The  business  of  the  treaty  began  at  once.  Much  time  was 
lost  in  translating  and  re-translating  and  it  was  not  until  late  in  the  afternoon  that  our 
labors  were  completed.  About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  an  Indian  runner  arrived, 
bringing  intelligence  of  the  murder  of  an  Indian  on  Applegate  creek.  He  said  that  a 
company  of  whites  under  Captain  Owens  had  that  morning  captured  Jim  Taylor,  a. 
young  chief,  tied  him  to  a  tree  and  shot  him  to  death.  This  news  caused  the  greatest 
confusion  among  the  Indians,  and  it  seemed  for  a  time  as  if  they  were  about  to  attack 


224  INDIAN  WAES. 

General  Lane's  party.  The  General  addressed  the  Indians,  telling  them  that  Owens 
who  had  violated  the  armistice  was  a  bad  man,  and  not  one  of  his  soldiers.  He  added 
considerable  more  of  a  sort  to  ftlacate  the  Indians,  and  finally  the  matter  of '  Jim's ' 
death  was  settled  by  the  whites  agreeing  to  pay  damages  therefor  in  shirts  and  blankets." 
The  treaty  of  peace  of  September  10,  1855,  contained  the  following  provisions : 
Article  1  defines  the  boundaries  of  the  lands  occupied  by  the  Rogue  River  and 
related  tribes.  The  principal  geographical  points  mentioned  as  lying  upon  these  boun- 
daries are,  the  mouth  of  Applegate  creek,  the  summit  of  .the  Siskiyou  mountains  at 
Pilot  Rock,  the  Snowy  Butte  (Mount  Pitt),  and  a  point  near  the  intersection  of  the 
Oregon  road  near  Jump-oflf-Joe  creek.  All  Indians  within  these  limits  were  to  main- 
tain peace  with  the  whites,  restore  stolen  property,  and  deliver  up  any  of  their  number 
who  might  infringe  the  articles  of  the  treaty.  The  second  article  provides  that  the 
tribes  should  permanently  reside  on  a  reservation  to  be  set  apart.  According  to  article 
three  they  were  to  surrender  all  fire-arms  except  fourteen  pieces,  which  were  reserved 
for  hunting.  According  to  article  4,  when  the  Indians  received  pay  for  their  surren- 
dered lands,  a  sum  not  exceeding  |1 5,000  was  to  be  set  aside  to  pay  for  whatever  dam- 
ages they  had  caused.  By  article  5,  they  were  to  forfeit  their  anuuites  if  they  again 
made  war.  In  article  6  they  agree  to  inform  the  agent  if  hostile  tribes  entered  the  reser- 
vation. 

A  supplemental  treaty  regarding  the  sale  of  the  Indians'  lands,  was  entered  into 
on  the  same  day.  By  it  they  ceded  to  the  United  States  government  all  their  right  to 
the  lands  lying  within  these  boundaries  :  Commencing  at  a  point  on  Rogue  river 
below  the  mouth  of  Applegate  creek,  thence  southerly  to  the  divide  between  Applegate 
and  Althouse  creeks ;  thence  along  the  divide  to  the  summit  of  the  Siskiyou  moun- 
tains ;  thence  easterly  to  Pilot  Rock  ;  thence  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Pitt ;  thence  to 
Rogue  river  ;  thence  westerly  to  Jump-oflf-Joe  creek ;  thence  to  place  of  beginning. 

The  Indians  were  to  occupy  temporarily  a  reservation  on  Evans'  creek,  west  and 
north  of  Table  Rock,  until  another  residence  was  found  for  them. 

In  consideration  for  the  transfer  of  their  rights,  the  agents  agreed  to  pay  the 
Indians  sixty  thousand  dollars  ;  of  which  fifteen  thousand  were  to  be  retained  as  pro- 
vided in  the  treaty  of  peace.  The  damages  caused  by  the  Indians  were  to  be  estimated 
by  three  disinterested  persons.  Five  thousand  dollars  were  to  be  expended  in  pur- 
chasing blankets,  clothing,  agricultural  implements,  and  other  desirable  and  necessary 
articles.  The  remaining  forty  thousand  dollars  were  to  be  paid  in  sixteen  annual 
payments  of  live  stock,  blankets,  necessaries  of  life,  etc.  Three  dwelling  houses,  one 
for  each  of  the  principal  chiefs,  were  to  be  erected,  at  a  cost  of  not  more  than  five  hun- 
dred dollars  each.  The  remaining  provisos  relate  to  the  non-molestation  of  the  whites 
passing  through  the  reservation  ;  to  the  referral  of  grievances  to  the  resident  Indian 
agent ;  to  the  discovery  of  thefts,  murders,  etc. ;  and  to  the  ratification  of  the  treaty  by 
the  president,  at  which  time  it  would  take  effect.  The  treaty  for  the  cession  of  lands 
bore  the  signatures  of  Joel  Palmer,  Samuel  H.  Culver,  Joe  Aps-er-ka-har,  Sam  To- 
qua-he-ar,  Jim  Ana-cha-ara,  John,  and  Limpy. 

Here  follow  the  names  and  organizations  of  those  who  took  part  in  the  war  of 
1853.  No  apology  is  needed  for  inserting  them.  They  are  the  names  of  men  who 
"•ave  their  services  for  the  defense  of  their  fellow  beings,  and  to  many  of   whom 


Masonic  Temple,  Ashland. 


INDIAN  WARS.  225 

the  thanks  and  gratitude  of  this  hiter  generation  is  due.  It  is  a  regrettable  eircnra- 
stanoe  that  the  muster-rolls  of  all  the  companies  which  were  formed  cannot  be  obtained. 
The  missing  ones  are  those  of  Terry's  Crescent  City  Guards,  Rhoades'  Humbug  Creek 
Volunteers,  and  Goodall's  Yreka  Volunteers.  Of  the  latter  a  2iartial  list  is  given  from 
memory  by  their  cajitain. 

Althouse  Mounted  Volunteers. — Mustered  in  August  24,  1853;  discharged 
September  21,  1853 — Captain,  Robert  L.Williams;  First  Lieutenant,  John  W.  Burke; 
Second  Lieutenant,  William  Mendenhall ;  Corporal,  William  T.  Ross ;  Privates, 
Isaac  Auger,  Alfred  Allen,  Michael  Bush,  James  B.  Bowers,  Gabriel  Cooper,  Joseph 
Cooper,  William  Fountain,  Paul  Fairclo,  James  Jordan,  John  Makin,  William  A. 
Moore,  William  McMahon,  William  Mitchell,  Peter  H.  Peveler,  Thomas  Phillips, 
Jackson  Rader,  Vinson  S.  Ricketts,  Robert  Shaw,  Alex.  St.  Gilles,  William  Shelley, 
Christopher  Shelley,  Harry  Spurgeon,  John  Spurgeon,  William  Shin,  Z.  A.  Triplett, 
Christopher  Taylor,  Robert  G.  Worthington. 

Lameeick's  Company. — Mustered  August  7,  1853  ;  discharged  September  10, 
1853 — Captain,  John  K.  Lamerick  ;  First  Lieutenant,  John  W.  Babcox ;  Second 
Lieutenants,  Anthony  Little,  William  Hunter,  Henry  Green ;  Sergeant,  S.  B.  Fargo  ; 
Corporal,  John  Swiuden ;  Privates,  Isaac  Adams,  G.  H.  Ambrose,  Nicholas  Belcher, 
John  Benjamin,  R.  E.  Bondevant,  E.  H.  Blanchard,  David  Crockett,  John  Creighton, 
William  Chase,  William  Crogey,  Joseph  Copeland,  Vincent  Davis,  E.  Downing,  Wil- 
liam Ewing,  T.  E.  Estes,  C.  C.  Gall,  S.  Gall,  J.  F.  Hedrick,  John  W.  Hillman, 
George  Hillman,  I.  A.  Hull,  John  R.  Harding,  G.  H.  Hazlett,  W.  B.  Howe,  Robert 
Hill,  D.  C.  Ingles,  James  T.  Jones,  A.  J.  Kane,  Henry  Klippel,  John  Lancaster,  Law- 
rence LaPointe,  Levi  Libby,  John  Milligan,  Roderick  McLeod,  Malcolm  McKay,  J. 
W.  Patrick,  Alonzo  Price,  A.  Russell,  Solomon  Rader,  William  R.  Rose,  J.  R. 
Reynolds,  William  M.  Sevens,  Peter  Snelback,  S.  B.  Sarles,  S.  R.  Senor,  William  G. 
T' Vault,  David  Thompson,  Gustaf  Wilson,  Thomas  Wilson,  J.  B.  Wagner,  Charles 
Williams,  T.  B.  Willard,  H.  N.  Winslow. 

Miller's  Company. — Mustered  in  August  8,  1853;  discharged  November  2, 
1853. — Captain,  John  F.  Miller;  First  Lieutenant,  Burrell  B.  Griffin;  Second  Lieu- 
tenants, Abel  George,  Alfred  Waterman;  Sergeants,  Claes  Westfeldt,  J.  C.  McFarland, 
William  Hiatt,  James  Mattony;  Corporals,  A.  J.  Mattoon,  Andrew  Herron,  James 
King,  Payton  W.  Cook;  Farrier,  William  Hill;  Privates,  Benjamin  Armstrong,  Jesse 
Adams,  Moses  Adams,  George  Anderson,  Thornton  Anderson,  Benjamin  Antram, 
Richard  Barker,  Richard  Benson,  James  Bailey,  Henry  Brown,  Mases  Bellinger,  D. 
Bates,  John  Bland,  David  Brown,  Daniel  Carlysle,  Daniel  F.  Counsel,  David  D.  Cal- 
houn, Hugh  C.  Clawson,  William  Duke,  Martin  Elliott,  Kela  Farrington,  Carter  L. 
Fuller,  Francis  Garnett,  Lewis  D.  Gibson,  William  M.  Griffin,  Thomas  Gill,  Thomas 
Guthrie,  William  Gee,  John  B.  Hice,  Lewis  Hiatt,  Jes.se  Hiatt,  James  Huggins, 
Charles  B.  Houser,  David  Hicks,  Samuel  Hicks,  Abraham  G.  Hedden,  Martin  Hoover, 
N.  Hulz,  Thomas  Inman,  Charles  Johnson,  William  Johnson,  David  C.  Jamison, 
Thomas  B.  Jackson,  Lycurgus  Jackson,  Isham  P.  Jones,  J.  T.  Jones,  John  Layton, 
George  Ludlow,  Hugh  Lyle,  Jacob  Long,  Elijah  Lcasure,  William  Lippard,  William 
P.  Miller,  Isaac  Miller,  John  S.  Miller,  Green  ]\ratthews,  William  J.  Morrison,  Samuel 
Moore,  John  T.  Moxlev,  John  :\readcr,  Elijah  McCall,  John  :\IcCombs.  David  .^LcRae, 


226  INDIAN  WAES. 

Andrew  McXeal,  Thomas  McF.  Patton,  Cornelius  Xajip,  Joshua  Xohiud,  John  Orton, 
John  Osborne,  Henry  Patterson,  Sylvester  Pease,  Robert  Parker,  R.  Pearce,  Alonzo 
Pattee,  Christian  Peterson,  David  Redpath,  Abraham  Robinson,  Josiah  Register,  E. 
Ransom,  Edward  Smith,  James  F.  Stewart,  John  Shorkman,  Enoch  Sjiringer,  William 
M.  Shaffer,  James  Stejjhens,  Oscar  T.  Sandford,  Thomas  I.  Sutton,  John  Thurber, 
Henry  C.  Turner,  James  Toabeler,  Titus  B.  Willard,  J.  Wilkes,  C.  L.  Wilcox,  Alex- 
ander Williamson,  Charles  Wright,  Charles  Wright  (Indian),  Washington  Waters,  J. 
Willis,  Elijah  Williams,  Samuel  Williams,  Samuel  Wilkes. 

Halstead  Mounted  Yolunteers. — Mustered  in  August  21,  1853;  discharged 
September  14,  1853 — Captain,  Elias  A.  Owens;  First  Lieutenants,  Benjamin  Halstead, 
Thomas  Frizzell ;  Second  Lieutenant,  Silas  Crandle;  Sergeant,  William  B.  Lewis;  Pri- 
vates, A.  Allen,  Sherlock  M.  Abrams,  Charles  Bushman,  X.  C.  Boatman,  Samuel  S. 
Bowden,  Louis  Dernois,  Joseph  Despar,  Robt.  M.  Denton,  Jas.  P.  Frizzell,  John  FrizzelL 
John  Green,  Silas  R.  Howe,  William  S.  Hamock,  Albert  P.  Hodges,  William  Johnson, 
Henry  Kelly,  William  King,  James  Lafferty,  John  Lynch,  Alexander  McCloy,  James 
Mungo,  J.  W.  Pickett,  Robert  L.  Smith,  David  Sexton,  Joseph  Umpqua. 

Yeeka  Voluxteees. — Mustered  August  11 ;    discharged Captain,  Jas.  P- 

Goodall;  First  Lieutenant,  Simeon  Ely;  Second  Lieutenants,  Philyar  A.  Bod  well,  Geo. 
W.  Tyler ;  Sergeants,  John  W.  Fairchild,  Joseph  G.  Barber,  James  Thomas,  Frank 
Perry;  Corporal,  Mike  Brown ;  Privates,  John  Albau,  Kilian  Albert,  Charles  Abbe, 
Asa  Colburn,  Carl  Vogt,  AVilliam  Neff,  Isham  P.  Keith,  Alfred  Douglass,  John  Scar- 
borough, James  Bradley,  James  Bruce,   John  W.  Crowell,  Philip  Edwards,  William 

Terrill,  McGonigle,  Christopher  Shack,  Henry  Flesher,  William  Lewis,  Joseph 

Gaunyau,  Robert  Neal,  James  Carroll,  Charles  A.  Johnson,  James  T.  Hurd,  Albert 
M.  Price,  John  W.  Cawood,  Charles  Lacey,  D.  Y.  Ellington,  George  Charles,  J.  D. 
Carly. 

Nes.mith's  Compaxy. — Enlisted  in  the  AVillamette  valley,  in  compliance  with  the 
Governor's  proclamation — Captain,  J.  W.  Nesmith;  First  Lieutenant,  L.  F.  Grover; 
Second  Lieutenant,  W.  K.  Beale;  Surgeon,  J.  D.  McCurdy;  Sergeant,  J.  M.  Crooks; 
Privates,  Samuel  B.  Gregg,  Ben.  McCormack,  Jas.  Gay,  H.  S.  Young,  James  Pritchett, 
R.  Woodfin,  Francis  A.  Haynes,  S.  T.  Burch,  J.  Fortune,  G.  H.  McQueen,  F.  M.  P. 
Goff;  W.  E.  Clark,  J. W.  Jones,  R.  C.  Hague,  J.  A.  Millard,  Samuel  E.  Darnes,  Wm. 
Beale,  Samuel  Abbott,  Jas.  S.  Rose,  James  M.  Baldwin,  Z.  Griffin,  J.  Jones,  Thos. 
W.  Beale,  A.  A.  Eugles,  James  Stanley,  George  W.  Cady,  John  McAllister,  R.  C. 
Breeding,  N.  F.  Herreu,  John  Ragsdale,  David  Kirkpatrick,  Wilson  Blake,  Horace 
Dougherty,  James  Daniel,  J.  M.  Case,  J.  W.  Toms. 

Hospital  Attaches. — In  the  military  hospital  at  Jacksonville,  in  1853,  E.  H. 
Clea  viand,  as  surgeon  and  medical  director,  was  in  charge,  assisted  by  eleven  attaches 
— R.  A.  Caldwell,  C.  Davenport,  Thomas  Gregory,  W.  W.  Hanway,  George  Hillman, 
J.  B.  Hice,  John  Inman,  James  S.  Lowery,  Francis  Peirce,  J.  B.  Shepley,  and  B.  W. 
Woodruff.  These  men  served  various  terms,  ranging  from  sixteen  to  sixty-three  days, 
for  which  they  received  pay  at  the  rate  of  five  dollars  per  day  and  rations. 

List  of  Killed  axd  Wou>'ded. — On  Applegate  creek,  August  8,  George 
Anderson  wounded,  and  on  the  following  day  B.  B.  Griffin,  first  lieutenant  in  the 
same  company  (Miller's),  wounded,  and  Francis  Garnett,  private,  killed;    on  August 


INDIAN  WARS.  227 

10,  while  on  detached  service,  John  E.  Harding  and  AVilliam  R.  Rose,  privates, 
Lamerick's  company,  killed;  on  Angust  17,  at  Little  Meadows,  Sergeant  Frank  Perry 
and  Privates  Asa  Colburn,  Alfred  Douglass,  Isham  P.  Keith,  William  Nefif  and  L. 
Stockting  killed  or  mortally  wounded,  and  First  Lieutenant  Simeon  Ely  and  Privates 
Zebulon  Sheets,  John  Alban  and  James  Carroll  severely  wounded,  all  l)elongiug  to 
Goodall's  company;  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  August,  at  Battle  creek.  Private  Thomas 
Hays  of  Rhoades'  company,  and  Henry  Flesher  and  Charles  Abbe  of  Goodall's  com- 
pany were  wounded,  the  latter  dying  of  his  wounds  on  the  second  of  September,  and 
John  Scarborough,  private  of  Goodall's  company,  was  killed;  August  28,  at  Long's 
Ferry,  First  Lieutenant  Thomas  Frizzell  and  Private  James  Mungo  (Indian),  were 
killed  in  battle;  September  14,  Thomas  Phillips,  private  in  Williams'  company,  was 
killed  by  the  Indians  on  Applegate  creek ;  on  October  4  occurred  the  last  casualty  of 
the  war,  in  the  wounding  with  arrows  of  Private  William  Duke,  of  Miller's  company. 

When  General  Lane  and  his  officers  made  the  treaty  with  Joe  and  his  people, 
there  were  many  persons  who  in  a  subdued  manner  opjiosed  it,  and  prognosticated  its 
utter  failure.  These  people  were  of  the  sort  who  in  the  earlier  days  of  August  had 
said:  "Hang  the  Indian  children;  tlrey  will  grow  up  to  be  our  enemies."  They 
urged  a  war  of  extermination ;  humanity's  dictates  were  too  refined  to  be  applied  to 
cases  wherein  Indians  were  concerned.  This  class,  while  they  affected  to  deplore  the 
horrible  massacres  of  whites,  still  did  their  utmost  to  rouse  the  Indians  to  other  deeds 
of  like  savagery,  by  inflicting  on  them  unprovoked  acts  which  really  brave  and  merci- 
ful people  abhor.  It  is  a  fact  that  after  the  Lane  treaty  was  signed,  its  provisions  were 
repeatedly  broken  by  whites,  who  deliberately  murdered  unsuspecting  and  helpless 
Indians.  Chief  Joe,  whom  none  of  his  white  contemporaries  suspected  of  falsehood, 
said  at  the  Lane  peace  conference  that  he  did  not  begin  war  nor  seek  to  retaliate  until 
fourteen  of  his  tribe  had  been  shot  or  hung  by  the  whites.  Least  these  remarks  should 
be  misunderstood,  the  I'eader  is  informed  that  they  apply  only  to  that  irresponsible  ele- 
ment in  the  population  which  had  but  little  respect  for  law  and  justice,  and  not  to  that 
great  body  of  respectable  and  law  abiding  citizens  who  cast  their  lot  in  Southern 
Oregon,  and  by  thirty  years  of  industry  have  made  it  what  it  is  to-day. 

During  the  armistice  and  subsequent  to  the  signing  of  the  treaty,  the  class  of  ex- 
terminators alluded  to  kept  up  their  efforts  to  kill  off  as  many  Indians  as  they  could, 
regardless  of  any  moral  restriction  whatever.  Revenge  was  the  motto,  and  these  men 
lived  up  to  it.  Not  half  of  the  outrages  which  were  perpetrated  on  Indians  were  ever 
heard  of  through  newspapers;  yet  there  are  the  accounts  of  several,  and  these  are  of  a 
most  cold-blooded  description.  We  will  allude  lightly  to  a  few  examples.  Captain 
Bob  Williams,  stationed  with  his  comjiany  on  the  banks  of  Rogue  river,  during  the 
armistice  was  not  too  brave  and  magnanimous  to  attempt  to  kill  two  children,  the  sons 
of  Chief  Joe;  but  General  Lane  with  the  utmost  haste  ordered  his  removal  from  the 
locality  to  another,  where  there  would  be  less  opportunity  for  the  exercise  of  his  pro- 
pensities. We  have  the  evidence  of  no  less  an  authority  than  Judge  Deady  to  prove 
that  a  fearful  outrage  was  perpetrated  at  Grave  creek  after  the  armistice  was  agreed 
upon.  He  writes  :  "At  Grave  creek  I  stopped  to  feed  my  horse  and  get  something 
to  eat.  There  was  a  house  there,  called  the  'Bates  House,'  after  the  man  who  kept  it. 
It  was  a  rdugh,  wooden  structure  without  a  floor,  and  had  an  immense  clapboard  fun- 


228  INDIAN  WARS. 

nel  at  one  eud,  which  served  as  a  chimney.  There  was  no  house  or  settlement  within 
ten  or  twelve  miles  or  more  of  it.  There  I  found  Caj^tain  J.  K.  Lamerick  in  com- 
mand of  a  company  of  volunteers.  It  seems  he  had  been  sent  there  by  General  Lane 
after  the  fight  at  Battle  creek,  on  account  of  the  murder  of  some  Indians  there,  of 
which  he  and  others  gave  me  the  following  account : 

Bates  and  some  others  had  induced  a  small  party  of  peaceable  Indians  who  be- 
longed in  that  vicinity  to  enter  into  an  engagement  to  remain  at  peace  with  the  whites 
during  the  war  which  was  going  on  at  some  distance  from  them,  and  by  way  of  ratifi- 
cation to  this  treaty,  invited  them  to  partake  of  a  feast  in  an  unoccupied  log  house  just 
across  the  road  from  the  'Bates  House;'  and  while  they  were  partaking,  unarmed,  of 
this  proffered  hospitality,  the  door  was  suddenly  fastened  upon  them,  and  they  were 
deliberately  shot  down  through  the  cracks  between  the  logs  by  their  treacherous  hosts. 
Near  by,  and  probably  a  quarter  of  a  mile  this  side  of  the  creek,  I  was  shown  a  large, 
round  hole  into  which  the  bodies  of  these  murdered  Indians  had  been  unceremoniously 
tumbled.     I  did  not  see  them,  for  they  were  covered  with  fresh  earth." 

Some  miners  from  Sailor  Diggings  attacked  a  rancheria  on  Illinois  river  or  Deer 
creek,  as  the  accounts  go,  and  killed  two  of  the  seven  male  Indians  present.  The 
others  hastily  seized  their  bows  and  arrows,  and  began  a  lively  resistance.  Two  white 
men  were  hit,  which  so  discouraged  the  others  that  they  ran  away.  The  act  of  aggres- 
sion was  severely  denounced  by  other  people,  and  the  term  "desperado"  was  applied 
to  the  perjjetrators.  Agent  Culver  was  sent  for  to  investigate  matters,  but  it  is  not 
known  that  the  guilty  parties  were  ever  brought  to  justice;  indeed,  there  is  a  certain 
presumption  that  they  were  not. 

An  incident  bearing  somewhat  ujion  this  question  is  worthy  of  mention,  though 
it  occurred  somewhat  outside  of  the  region  supposed  to  be  covered  by  the  Lane  treaty. 
On  January  28,  1854,  a  small  j^arty  of  armed  men  from  the  Randolph  mines,  in  Coos 
county,  went  to  a  rancheria,  attacked  the  Indians  and  killed  fifteen,  as  far  as  is  knov.'n, 
without  jirovocation.  Two  squaws  were  shot  dead,  one  with  her  babe  in  her  arms. 
The  next  day  the  miners  j^assed  a  law  providing  that  whosoever  should  sell  or  give  any 
gun,  rifle  or  pistol  to  Indians,  should  for  the  first  offense  receive  thirty-nine  lashes,  and 
for  the  second  offense  should  suffer  death.  Meeting  considerable  adverse  criticism  for 
their  attack  uj^on  the  helpless  and  unarmed  creatures  at  the  rancheria,  these  men  next 
proceeded  to  hold  a  meeting  and  pass  resolutions,  one  maintaining  that  the  Indians  at 
the  time  were  on  the  eve  of  an  outbreak,  and  another  congratulating  themselves  on 
their  bravery!  The  whole  absurd  ^proceedings  are  contained  in  a  letter  written  by  one 
of  the  assailants  to  the  Oregon  Statesman  of  contemporary  date,  and  in  the  report  of  the 
Bureau  of  Indian  Afiairs  for  1854,  within  which  may  be  found  letters  from  F.  M. 
Smith,  agent  at  Port  Orford,  and  G.  H.  Abbott,  leader  of  the  attacking  force  of  miners. 

It  does  not  require  the  thorough  investigation  to  which  the  records  of  these  events 
have  been  subjected  by  the  writer,  to  determine  conclusively  that  while  the  whites  as  a 
class  were  content  with  the  treaty  and  obedient  to  its  provisos,  there  was  a  considerable 
minority  who  lost  no  opportunity  to  manifest  their  contempt  of  the  instrument  and 
their  disregard  of  its  obligations.  Kor  were  the  Indians  idle.  As  soon  as  the  report 
of  the  killings  at  Grave  creek,  at  Applegate  and  other  jDlaces,  had  been  bruited  abroad, 
and  the  natives  had  become  convinced  that  they  were  individually  in  as  much  danger 


(I 


/^.  ^.  (me^^^a^^z/ 


INDIAN  WARS.  229 

as  before  the  treaty,  they  began  reprisals.  They  committed  atrocities  that  were  not 
exceeded  in  bloodthirstiness  by  those  at  whom  they  were  aimed.  A  few  days  after  the 
battle  of  Evans'  creek  Thomas  Frizzell  and  Mungo  were  murdered  by  Indians  on  Rogue 
river,  below  Vannoy's.  It  seems  that  Frizzell  owned  a  ferry  in  that  locality,  which 
he  was  constrained  to  leave  at  the  commencement  of  hostilities.  He  joined  Owens' 
company,  of  which  he  was  chosen  first  lieutenant.  On  the  day  mentioned,  he  went 
home  to  examine  into  the  condition  of  things,  being  accompanied  by  Mungo,  a  private 
of  his  company.  On  returning  they  arrived  within  two  miles  of  Vannoy's,  when  they 
were  fired  on  by  concealed  Indians,  and  Frizzell  was  instantly  killed.  Mungo, 
wounded,  took  refuge  in  a  thicket  and  with  his  rifle  kept  the  enemy  at  bay  for  hours 
until  a  relief  party  came  to  his  aid.  He  was  carried  to  Vannoy's,  but  died  on  arriving 
there.  These  men  were  said  to  have  been  killed  in  retaliation  for  the  massacre  of  the 
Indians  at  Bates'  house,  but  this  assertion,  of  course,  does  not  admit  of  proof.  The 
same  day  (August  twenty-eighth),  the  savages  burned  the  house  of  Raymond,  at  Jump- 
off'-Joe  creek,  as  well  as  two  others  in  the  vicinity. 

These  disturbances  were  chiefly  confined  to  Josephine  county  and  the  western  part 
of  Jackson  county ;  or  to  speak  more  specifically,  to  the  Grave  creek,  Applegate  creek, 
Illinois  river  and  Althouse  creek  country. 

About  the  twelfth  of  September,  1853,  there  occurred  a  catastrophe  of  some  note 
several  miles  below  Deer  creek  bar.  Two  prospectors,  Tedford  and  Rouse,  were 
attacked  by  Illinois  Indians,  peaceable  until  that  time,  and  both  injured  very  severely. 
Rouse  was  cut  in  the  face,  and  Tedford  was  shot  in  the  left  arm,  shattering  the  bone. 
The  men  were  alone  at  the  time,  but  were  speedily  found  by  neighboring  miners  and 
carried  to  a'  place  of  safety.  Tedford's  injuries  were  mortal ;  he  died  within  a  week. 
This,  and  some  slighter  injuries  perpetrated  the  same  day  on  other  parties,  were  the 
first  hostile  acts  of  the  Illinois  Indians,  who  until  then  had  shown  a  tolerably  peaceful  ■ 
disposition.  This  was  in  the  absence  of  nearly  all  the  fighting  portion  of  the  white 
community,  who  were  with  Captain  Williams  on  the  Rogue  river.  On  their  return  a 
party  was  made  up  to  pursue  certain  Indians  who  had  stolen  some  property  from  the 
Hunter  brothers,  including  quite  a  number  of  mules.  The  thieves  were  followed  for 
three  days,  over  rough  mountains,  across  creeks  and  through  jungles,  and  at  last 
traced  to  an  Indian  village  on  Illinois  river.  This  was  attacked  by  the  pursuers,  and 
several  Indians  were  killed  ;  but  the  whites  had  ultimately  to  retire,  Alex.  Watts 
being  slightly  wounded  in  the  attack.  The  regular  troops  shortly  after  occupied  this 
village,  after  killing  several  of  its  inhabitants  and  driving  the  rest  away.  On  their 
return  to  headquarters  the  Indians  followed  them,  and  killed  Sergeant  Day,  wounded 
Private  King,  and  re-took  sixteen  stolen  animals.  Lieutenants  Radford  and  Carter 
were  in  charge  of  the  expedition,  having  been  sent  by  Captain  Smith,  on  the  seven- 
teenth of  October,  from  Fort  Lane,  and  the  action  took  place  on  the  twenty-fourth  of 
the  same  month.  It  has  always  been  supposed  that  the  malcontents  spoken  of  were 
Coast  Indians,  from  the  vicinity  of  Chetco.  At  any  rate  they  were  no  triflers,  as  the 
whites  found  to  their  cost.  On  the  twenty-sixth  the  miners  again  assembled,  to  the 
number  of  thirty-five,  to  make  another  descent  upon  the  same  cam|),  when  the  Indians' 
scouts  discovered  them  and  received  them  with  unexpected  warmth.  William  Hunter 
was  wounded  by  three  bullets,  not  seriously,  and  the  pai-ty  returned  to  tlieir  i'es;x'ctivo 


230  INDIAN  WARS. 

homes  \Yithout  carrying  out  their  projected  anuibilatiou  of  the  hostile  camp.  Michael 
Biishey  was  of  the  number,  and  through  his  exertions  a  treaty  of  peace  and  amity  was 
entered  into  between  the  miners  and  the  Indians  of  that  rancheria.  The  Indians  ob- 
served the  treaty  faithfully  enough,  but  the  whites  were  not  so  honorable.  It  has  been 
mentioned  how  certain  whites  from  Sailor  Diggings  attempted  to  "  make  good  Indians" 
of  seven  "  bucks"  at  a  certain  rancheria,  but  were  driven  off  ignominiously.  These 
Indians  were  the  survivors  of  those  who  slew  Sergeant  Day,  and  foiled  Bushey  and 
his  party.  They  were  now  living  in  quietness  op  Deer  creek,  when  attacked  by  the 
party  -from  Sailor  Diggings,  who  were  said  to  have  numbered  twenty.  Again  Bushey, 
■with  Alex.  Watts,  jmtched  up  a  treaty  with  them  which  existed  until  1855,  when  cer- 
tain events  on  the  lower  Klamath  river,  in  which  these  Indians  were  implicated, 
sundered  those  pleasant  relations. 

On  Applegate  creek,  Septemlier  2,  four  houses  were  burned  by  Indians,  and  their 
contents  destroyed.  At  about  the  same  date,  or  possibly  a  little  later,  a  pack-train 
coming  from  Crescent  City  was  fired  upon  and  the  three  Mexicans  who  drove,  were 
wounded,  three  mules  were  killed  and  all  the  merchandise  caj)tured  by  Indians.  This 
closes  the  list  of  outrages  perpetrated  in  that  part  of  the  country  subsequent  to  the 
treaty,  and  the  subject  now  leads  us  to  consider  the  state  of  affairs  on  Rogue  river. 

General  Lane  left  for  the  north  on  or  about  October,  1853.  But  before  taking  leave 
of  the  2>eople  of  the  valley,  lie  made  a.  visit  to  Tipsu  Tyee,  hoping  in  the  interests  of 
peace,  to  induce  that  much  feared  warrior  to  join  the  Rogue  River  chieftains  in  amity 
to  the  whites.  Tipsu  had  not  made  himself  felt  in  the  recent  hostilities  probably  for 
reasons  already  set  forth,  but  as  if  still  further  to  signalize  his  independence  of  both 
white  and  Indian  influence,  he  sent  word  to  Jacksonville  that  he  did  not  recognize  the 
peace  of  September  10,  and  should  not  by  any  means  subscribe  to  its  terms.  As  for 
Sam,  Joe,  George,  Limpy  and  the  rest,  they  might  do  as  they  chose  ;  he  was  upon  his 
own  land,  came  upon  it  first,  and  should  remain  uj)on  it.  Tins  message  j^resented  a 
new  difficulty.  It  seemed  to  the  2:)eo25le  and  to  the  Indian  agents  alike,  that  Tipsu  Tyee 
needed  to  be  put  down.  His  outbreak  of  insolence  ought  to  be  punished.  But  to  pun- 
ish such  an  Indian  as  the  wily  old  Tyee  was  an  undertaking  of  considerable  difficulty* 
and  very  few  were  ready  to  attempt  it.  The  chief  staid  in  his  lair,  and  General  Lane, 
who  to  great  fighting  qualities  added  a  heart  that  was  capable  of  feeling  for  even  the 
most  savage  of  God's  creatures,  paid  him  a  visit  in  the  interests  of  peace  and  humanity. 
Accompanied  by  two  men  only,  he  went  into  the  mountains,  found  the  chief,  and 
entered  upon  an  agreement  with  him  by  which  the  rights  of  the  settlers  were  to  l)e 
respected  and  grievances  to  be  settled  satisfactorily ;  and  having  taken  leave  of  his  host, 
returned  safely  from  a  journey  which  most  men  regarded  as  infinitely  dangerous. 

The  different  companies  (Lamerick's,  Miller's,  Owens',  Goodall's,.  Rhodes',  Wil- 
liams', Terry's  and  Fowler's)  were  mustered  out,  with  the  exception  of  Miller's,  during 
the  early  days  of  September,  soon  after  the  close  of  disturbances,  and  sent  home.  Peo- 
ple were  now  returning  to  their  customary  occupations,  generally  well  pleased  with  the 
result  of  the  war  and  hoping  that  no  more  "unpleasantness"  might  supervene,  as 
considerabl  force  of  regular  troops  had  arrived,  and  Colonel  Wright,  with  four  com- 
panies from  Benicia  and  Fort  Reading,  was  daily  expected.  Captain  Alden,  convales- 
cent, set  out  for  Fort  Jones,  about  the  time  that  the  military  authorities  resolved  upon 


INDIAN  WARS.  231 

founding  a  permanent  fortified  camp  near  Table  Rock.  The  Indians  were  safely  domi- 
ciled near  that  locality,  their  reservation  extending  north  and  west  of  those  prominent 
and  celebrated  land  marks.  Their  position  was  a  good  one  and  to  their  liking.  Camas 
and  ip-a  roots  grew  there  in  profusion;  salmon  in  their  season  swarmed  in  the  river, 
game  of  all  kinds  was  abundant  in  the  neighboring  mountains.  Besides,  it  was  in  the 
land  of  their  nativity;  and  though  nominally  confined  to  the  narrow  limits  of  a  com- 
paratively small  tract,  they  were  not  perceptibly  worse  off  than  before.  Opposite  their 
home,  the  new  military  j)ost  reared  its  imposing  front.  Appropriately  named  Fort 
Lane,  it  was  commodiously  and  even  handsomely  built,  and  in  a  manner  Avell  adapted 
to  the  uses  of  such  a  post.  A  stockade  enclosed  quite  a  spacious  area  in  which  was  a 
parade  ground,  together  with  barracks  for  private  soldiers,  houses  for  officers,  an  armory> 
hospital,  and  other  necessary  buildings,  all  built  of  logs.  It  continued  to  be  the  head- 
(i[uarters  of  the  military  forces  in  this  region  for  three  years ;  at  the  end  of  the  last 
Indian  war  being  abandoned.  A  quarter  of  a  century  has  seen  the  old  fort  fall  into 
ruins,  and  to-day  scarcely  a  vestige  of  what  was  once  a  lively  encampment  remains. 
The  officers  and  men  who  guarded  its  wooden  ramparts  are  scattered  and  many  of  them 
have  found  a  soldier's  grave.  Some  of  them  died  fighting  for  the  flag  that  waved  above 
the  old  fort;  others  forsaking  that  flag,  espoused  the  "Lost  Cause"  and  were  lost  with  it. 

Very  soon  after  the  construction  of  the  military  post  was  I'esolved  U230n,  a  circum- 
stance occurred  which  ranks  as  one  of  the  most  important,  and  at  the  same  time  singu- 
lar, that  we  have  to  narrate.  This  was  the  murder  of  James  C.  Kyle,  on  the  sixth  of 
October,  1853,  by  Indians  from  the  Table  Eock  reservation.  This  sad  affair  took 
place  within  two  miles  of  Fort  Lane,  at  a  time  when  the  settlers  were  congratulating, 
themselves  that  Indian  difficulties  were  at  an  end.  Kyle  was  a  merchant  of  Jackson- 
ville, partner  of  Wills  whose  untimely  and  cruel  death  has  been  recorded.  A  rigid 
examination  and  investigation  of  the  homicide  proved  that  it  was  committed  by  indi- 
viduals from  the  reservation,  and  the  chiefs  were  called  upon  to  surrender  the  criminals 
in  compliance  with  the  terms  of  the  treaty.  They  did  so  ;  and  two  Indians,  George 
and  Tom,  were  handed  over  to  the  proper  authorities,  as  the  murderers  of  Kyle,  while 
Indian  Thompson,  tilicum  of  the  same  tribe,  who  has  been  previously  mentioned, 
was  surrendered  as  the  murderer  of  Edwards.  Like  Thompson,  the  other  two  suspects 
were  tried  before  Judge  McFadden  of  the  United  States  circuit  court,  at  Jacksonville, 
in  February,  18o4.     They  were  found  guilty,  and  hanged  two  days  later. 

At  the  close  of  the  Evans'  creek  campaign,  General  Lane,  with  commendable 
humanity  and  sagacity,  remembering  the  helpless  condition  of  the  incoming  migra- 
tion of  the  season,  dispatched  a  force  of  mounted  men,  being  Miller's  company,  well 
armed  and  provisioned,  to  operate  against  the  Indians  in  the  region  where  such  sicken- 
ing butcheries  were  perpetrated  the  year  before,  and  where  Ben  Wright  and  Captain 
Ross  had  done  such  good  service  in  aweing  the  savages  and  teaching  them  lessons  of 
the  white  man's  vengeance.  Caj^tain  Miller  proceeded  thence  with  his  men  and 
throughout  the  season  did  excellent  service  in  scouting,  fighting  those  Indians  who 
showed  signs  of  hostility,  and  in  piloting  trains  to  their  destination.  They  left  Jack- 
sonville September  twelfth,  and  returning  at  the  close  of  their  campaign,  were  dis- 
charged from  service  on  the  second  of  November.  Their  total  term  of  service  was 
about   three   months.     The  only  casualties  happening  to  them   while  on  the  emigrant 


232  INDIAN  WARS. 

trail  was  the  wouudiug  of  Private  William  Duke  by  Indians  at  Goose  lake,  October 
fourth,  and  of  Private  Watt,  at  another  time  and  place.  Captain  Miller's  command 
on  this  expedition  consisted  of  115  men. 

These  occurrences  complete  the  history  of  Indian  difficulties  for  the  year,  and 
together  constitute  the  natural  termination  of  what  is  known  as  the  "War  of  1853." 
There  is  a  short  note  to  be  appended  relating  to  the  indebtedness  which  grew  out  of 
the  war.  This  was  assumed  by  the  United  States;  and  however,  the  people  of  South- 
ern Oregon  might  grumble — and  grumble  they  did — at  the  attitude  of  the  govern- 
ment and  its  army  toward  the  settlers  and  the  Indians,  there  was  no  grumbling  heard 
concerning  the  assumption  of  the  debt  by  the  government,  nor  at  the  way  in  which 
that  debt  was  paid.  The  muster-rolls  and  accounts  of  all  the  eight  comj^anies  and 
General  Lane's  staff  (the  General  refused  to  accept  compensation  for  himself),  were 
made  out  and  adjusted  by  Captain  Goodall,  as  inspecting  and  mustering  officer,  acting 
under  orders  from  General  Lane,  at  the  close  of  the  war;  and  these  papers  were 
forwarded  to  Captain  Alden  at  Washington,  and  being  presented  to  congress  were 
promptly  acted  upon  at  the  instance  of  that  officer  and  General  Lane,  in  his  capacity 
as  delegate  to  congress  from  Oregon  Territory.  Major  Alvord,  paymaster  of  the 
United  States  army,  under  orders  from  the  secretary  of  war,  paid  oflP  the  volunteers, 
in  coin,  at  Jacksonville  and  Yreka,  in  June  and  July,  1855.  The  commissary  and 
quartermaster  accounts  were  at  the  same  time  sent  in  draft  to  Governor  Curry,  and  by 
him  disbursed  to  the  proper  creditors.  The  total  cost  to  the  United  States  was  about 
$285,000. 


CHAPTER   XXVIL 


EVENTS     OF     1854. 

A  Year  of  Comparative  Peace— Tipsu  Tyee —  His  Career — The  Cave  Fight—  Death  of  Tipsu— The  Cotton- 
wood War  -Walker's  Expedition  —  His  Muster-roll  —  Fight  at  Warner  Rock— Return  to  Jacksonville — 
Murder   of  Phillips. 

Eighteen  hundred  and  fifty-four  was  a  year  of  peace  for  most  of  the  Rogue  River 
tribe,  safely  gathered  on  their  reservation.  The  military  force  at  Fort  Lane  kept  in 
awe  such  roving  vagabond  savages  as  desired  or  might  be  led  to  commit  outrages,  and 
also  such  whites  as,  not  having  the  fear  of  the  law  before  their  eyes,  might  seek  to 
interfere  with  the  natives.  This  latter  class,  numerous  in  most  frontier  countries,  was 
doubly  troublesome  in  Southern  Oregon.  There  were  grasping,  avaricious  men  who 
seemed  to  begrudge  the  poor  savages  the  very  air  they  breathed.  The  reservation, 
some  would  say,  is  too  good  for  them;  it  ought  to  be  thrown  open  to  settlement  by 
whites.     This  class,  too,  were  dissatisfied  with   the  annuity   that  was  promised   the 


INDIAN  WARS.  233 

Iiiiliaus.  Nothing  in  our  government's  Indian  policy  commended  itself  to  such  men, 
unless  it  was  the  policy  of  referring  the  least  of  the  Indians'  faults  to  the  stern  arbit- 
rament of  bullets,  while  permitting  white  men  to  ride  rough-shod  over  them,  regard- 
less of  right  or  justice. 

Tipsu  Tyee,  however,  did  not  join  his  brother  chiefs  in  their  friendly  attitude 
toward  the  whites,  but  on  the  contrary  entered  systematically  upon  a  career  of  stealthy 
warfare  which  was  manifested  in  attacks  on  quite  a  number  of  parties  on  and  near  the 
Siskiyou  mountains.  He  eflPectually  terrorized  a  tract  of  country  reaching  from  Ash- 
land to  beyond  the  Klamath,  and  during  many  months  made  unexpected  descents  upon 
white  settlements,  or  robbed  towns,  with  almost  entire  impunity.  The  first  notable 
outrage  was  the  affair  near  Ashland  on  August  17,  1853.  The  visit  of  General  Lane 
to  Tipsu's  headquarters  would  appear  to  have  been  abortive,  for  at  various  times  we 
find  the  chief  active  against  the  whites.  The  principal  affair  of  the  season  was  the 
fight  near  Cottonwood,  resulting  in  the  death  of  Hiram  Hulen,  John  Clark,  John 
Oldfield,  and  Wesley  Mayden,  who  were  killed  in  January,  1854,  on  the  road  between 
Jacksonville  and  Yreka,  by  Shasta  Indians.  This  affair  had  a  curious  origin.  A  uum- 
l)er  of  "  squaw  men"  were  living  along  the  Klamath  and  about  Cottonwood  in  the 
winter  of  1853-4,  and  the  women  of  two  of  these — Tom  Ward  and  Bill  Chance — 
deserted  them  and  returned  to  their  kindred,  who  were  members  of  Tyee  Bill's  band 
of  Shastas,  dwelling  in  a  large  cave  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Klamath,  some  twenty 
miles  above  Cottonwood.  The  squaw  men  proceeded  after  them,  but  on  reaching  the 
cave  were  ordered  to  leave.  They  immediately  went  to  Cottonwood  and  falsely  reported 
that  a  large  number  of  stolen  horses  were  in  the  possession  of  these  Indians,  when  a 
company  of  men  was  raised  to  go  and  recover  the  animals.  They  went,  and  a  fight 
ensuing,  the  four  above  mentioned  were  killed,  and  the  rest  driven  away.  The  indig- 
nation in  Cottonwood  was  great ;  the  deceased  were  well  known  citizens,  and  the  people 
were  not  aware  how  they  had  been  dujjed  by  the  squaw  men.  Notice  of  the  difficulty 
was  sent  to  Captain  Judah,  commanding  at  Fort  Jones,  and  he  came  up  with  a  detach- 
ment of  troops.  A  company  of  volunteers  was  raised  at  Cottonwood,  commanded  by 
R.  C.  Geiger,  with  James  Lemmon  as  lieutenant.  Their  first  act  was  to  bury  the  bodies 
of  Hulen  and  his  friends,  who  served  to  start  the  new  cemetery  at  Cottonwood,  and 
were  all  buried  in  one  grave.  The  regulars  and  volunteers  went  then  to  the  cave,  and 
laid  siege  to  it,  until  Captain  Geiger  was  killed  by  a  bullet  in  his  brain,  from  incau- 
tiously exjiosing  himself.  This  happened  on  the  twenty-sixth  of  January.  On  the 
same  day  Captain  Smith  arrived  from  Fort  Lane  with  a  detachment  of  regulars,  and  a 
mountain  howitzei-,  and  being  the  senior  military  officer,  took  command  of  the  forces. 
He  advanced  to  the  vicinity  of  the  cave  and  opened  fire  ui^on  the  mouth  of  it  with 
his  howitzer,  but  ineffectually  except  as  to  endangering  the  volunteers  who  were  sta- 
tioned near  the  Indians'  den.  An  old  trapper,  Robinson  by  name,  now  arrived  and 
told  Captain  Smith  the  origin  of  the  difficulty.  The  officer  suspended  the  bombard- 
ment and  went  to  the  cave  accompanied  by  two  men  only,  and  conversed  with  Tyee 
P>ill,  who  confirmed  the  trapper's  story.  Words,  it  was  said,  had  no  power  to  describe 
the  officer's  indignation.  Exasperated  at  the  idea  of  a  military  force  belonging  to  the 
United  States  being  engaged  in  a  dispute  concerning  the  possession  of  squaws,  he  took 
liis   (Icparturi'   with  his   command    in   great   anger.     The  inhabitants   of   Cottonwood 


234  INDIAN  WAES. 

and  of  all  the  .suiTounding  country  were  displeased  with  this  action,  and   for  years  the 
people  and  press  of  the  border  refused  to  be  placated. 

Bill's  band  remained  at  the  cave  but  made  no  hostile  demonstration.  On  the 
twelfth  of  May  a  Shasta  named  Joe,  made  a  felonious  assault  on  a  white  woman,  but 
was  driven  away  by  the  approach  of  some  men.  He  was  pursued  and  fled  to  the  cave. 
Lieutenant  J.  C.  Bonnyeastle,  then  in  charge  of  Fort  Jones,  set  out  for  the  cave  to  com- 
pel his  surrender,  but  halting  on  Willow  creek,  was  informed  of  the  attack  by  Tipsu 
Tyee  on  Gage  and  Clymer's  pack-train  on  Siskiyou  mountain  wherein  David  Gage  was 
killed  and  the  mules  stolen.  The  next  day  Lieutenant  Bonnyeastle  and  command  set 
out  for  the  scene  of  the  last  outrage,  and  on  arriving  they  found  that  the  murder  had 
been  committed  by  six  Indians,  of  whom  four  had  departed  toward  the  cave.  The 
detachment  immediately  followed,  and  reaching  that  place,  they  found  that  the  Indians 
they  were  in  pursuit  of  had  arrived  there,  and  they  were  none  other  than  Tipsu  Tyee, 
his  son,  and  son-in-law,  and  another  member  of  their  band.  But  justice  had  overtaken 
the  notorious  old  creature  at  last,  for  Bill  and  his  party  had  fallen  upon  the  four  and 
killed  them  just  before  the  troops  arrived,  being  incited  thereto  by  a  desire  to  win  the 
friendship  of  the  whites,  to  whom  they  knew  TijDsu  to  be  a  bitter  enemy.  They  scalped 
the  dead  chief  and  sent  that  ghastly  trophy  to  the  office  of  Judge  Roseborough  in  Yreka 
where  it  was  seen  by  that  gentleman,  as  he  informed  the  writer.  Lieutenant  Bonny- 
eastle and  Captain  Goodall  also  saw  the  scalp,  and  not  feeling  perfectly  assured  of  its 
identity,  went  to  the  cave  and  twice  exhumed  the  body,  finding  satisfactory  evidence 
that  it  was  the  old  Tyee  and  none  other.  Tipsu,  is  described  by  Colonel  Ross  and 
others  who  knew  him  as  a  tall  and  powerful  man,  wearing  a  beard  or  goatee  which  was 
tinged  with  gray.  He  had  high  cheek  bones  and  a  distinctively  Indian  appearance, 
but  was  a  fine  looking  brave.  "He  was  a  quiet,  reserved  man,  who  never  went  among 
white  people,  when  he  could  avoid  it,  but  staid  almost  constantly  in  the  hills.  He  never 
begged,  but  if  provisions  or  other  gifts  were  offered,  he  would  allow  his  squaws  to 
receive  them." 

The  end  of  the  Cottonwood  affair  is  not  yet  told.  The  Shastas  in  the  cave  were 
visited  by  several  individuals,  among  them  Lieutenant  Bonnyeastle,  Judge  Steele, 
Judge  Roseborough,  special  Indian  agent ;  old  Tolo  chief  of  the  Yreka  Shastas  and  a 
friend  of  the  whites ;  Captain  Goodall  and  others,  and  persuaded  to  set  out  for  Fort 
Jones,  where  they  were  to  be  kept.  On  arriving  at  Cottonwood  creek  on  June  24,  they 
were  fired,  upon  by  a  gang  of  the  miners  of  that  vicinity,  and  Chief  Bill  was  killed, 
and  several  others  wounded.  The  whites  lost  one  man,  Thomas  C.  McKamey.  The 
Indians  finally  got  securely  on  the  Fort  Jones  reservation.  This  is  the  extent  of  our 
chronicles  concerning  the  Cave  Shastas,  and  they  drift  now  out  of  our  story. 

The  remaining  incidents  of  1854,  are  connected  with  the  expedition  of  Captain 
Jesse  Walker  to  assist  the  immigrants  of  that  year  through  the  dangerous  grounds 
infested  by  the  Modocs  and  other  hostile  tribes  who  had  been  punished  by  the  previous 
expeditions  of  Captain  Ross,  Ben  Wright  and  Captain  Miller.  Under  date  of  July  17, 
1854,  Governor  Davis  addressed  Colonel  John  Ross,  authorizing  him  by  virtue  of  his 
office  as  colonel  in  the  Oregon  militia,  to  call  into  service  a  company  of  volunteers  to 
protect  the  immigration  and  particularly  to  suj^press  the  Modocs,  Piutes,  and  other . 
disaffected  aborigines.     Colonel  Ross  accordingly  made  proclamation  on  the  third  of 


INDIAN  WARS.  235 

August  following,  inviting  enlistments  for  the  term  of  three  months.  Some  sixty  or 
seventy  men  responded,  whose  names,  with  the  officers  they  elected,  are  annexed  : 
Captain,  Jesse  Walker;  Lieutenants,  C.  Westfeldt,  Isaac  Miller;  Sergeants,  William 
G.Hill,  R.  E.  Miller,  Andrew  J.  Long;  Privates,  Benj.  Antum,  John  Bormonler, 
David  Breen,  William  By  bee,  T.  C  Banning,  O.  C  Beeson,  Newton  Ball,  J.  H.  Clifton, 
R.  S.  A.  Caldwell,  Hugh  C.  Clauson,  J.  J.  Coffer,  W.W.  Cose,  David  Dorsey,  Henry  C. 
Eldridge,  W.  M.D.  Foster,  T.V.  Henderson,  Jesse  Huggens,  J.  B.Henit,  J.  M.  Holloway, 
J.H.  Hoffman,  James  Hathaway,  John  Head,  John  Halleck,  John  Hawkins,  David  W. 
Houston,  Samuel  Hink,  William  H.  Jaquette,  Eli  Judd,  J.  P.  Jones,  L.  W.  Jones,  John 
F.  Linden,,  Peter  Mowry,  John  Martin,  Greenville  Matthews,  John  M.  Malone,  B. 
McDaniel,  James  McLinden,  John  Pritchett,  J.  B.  Patterson,  Warren  Pratt,  Sylvester 
Pase,  J.  A.  Pinney,  George  Bitchy,  W.  M.  Rise,  R.  M.  Robertson,  E.  A.  Rice,  Thomas 
Swank,  Seth  Sackett,  J.  R.  Smith,  N.  D.  Schooler,  John  Smith,  John  Shookman, 
Silas  R.  Smith,  Marion  Snow,  Vincent  Tullis,  John  Tliom2ison,  David  Thompson, 
Peter  H.  Vanslyke,  Samuel  Wilks,  Lafayette  Witt,  Squire  Williams,  Elijah  Walker, 
George  W.  Wilson,  M.  Wolverton,  James  Wilks,  Thomas  P.  Walker,  James  W. 
Walker,  H.  Wright. 

Colonel  Ross'  instructions  to  the  officers  before  their  departure,  were  to  proceed 
immediately  to  some  suitable  point  near  Clear  lake,  in  the  vicinity  of  Bloody  Point, 
and  protect  the  trains.  These  instructions  concluded:  "Your  treatment  of  the 
Indians  must  in  a  great  measure  be  left  to  your  own  discretion.  If  possible,  cultivate 
their  friendship ;  but,  if  necessary  for  the  safety  of  the  lives  and  property  of  the  immi- 
gi'ation,  whip  and  drive  them  from  the  road."  Simultaneously  with  their  starting,  a 
small  party  of  Yreka  people  also  set  out  with  the  same  object.  These  were  only 
fifteen  in  number,  but  included,  also,  some  very  experienced  Indian  fighters.  While 
traveling  along  the  north  shore  of  Tule  lake,  they  were  greeted  by  a  shower  of  arrows 
from  the  tules.  They  retired  to  await  the  Oregon  company.  When  Captain  Walker 
arrived,  he  sent  forty  men  of  his  company  with  five  Californians  to  attack  the  Indian 
village,  which  was  situated  in  the  marsh  three  hundred  yards  from  where  the  attack 
had  been  made.  This  was  destroyed  without  resistance,  and  all  the  men  returned  to 
camp  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lost  river.  The  permanent  rendezvous  was  made  at  Clear 
lake;  and  here  both  companies  established  their  headquarters.  Lieutenant  Westfeldt, 
with  a  mixed  detachment  of  Oregonians  and  Californians,  went  eastward  on  the  trail 
as  far  as  the  big  bend  of  the  Humboldt,  to  meet  the  coming  immigrants.  Trains  were 
made  up  of  the  scattered  wagons,  and  being  furnished  with  small  escorts,  were  sent  on 
westward.  The  Californians  soon  returning  home.  Captain  Walker  set  out  to  jamish 
the  Piutes,  who  had  stolen  stock  from  the  immigrants.  On  October  third  he  started  with 
sixteen  men,  traveling  northward  from  Goose  lake,  when  meeting  a  band  of  Indians, 
he  chased  them  forty  miles,  coming  the  second  day  ujion  them  where  they  were  forti- 
fied on  the  top  of  an  immense  rock,  named  by  him  Warner's  rock,  in  remembrance  of 
Captain  Warner,  killed  there  in  I84U.  The  small  party  made  a  furious  attack  upon 
the  stronghold,  but  was  repulsed  with  one  man,  John  Low,  wounded.  Returning  to 
Goose  lake,  they  met  and  killed  two  Indians.  Setting  out  again  with  twenty-five  men, 
the  determined  captain  again  headed  for  Warner's  rock,  and  by  traveling  in  the  night, 
reached  it  without  being  suspected  by  the  savages,  who,  it  was  found,  had  gone  down 


236  INDIAN  WARS. 

from  the  rock,  and  were  living  ou  tlie  bank  of  a  creek.  The  men  rode  up  to  the  camp, 
and  formed  a  semi-circle  about  it.  At  daydreak  they  began  firing,  and  drove  the 
Indians  pell-mell  into  the  brush,  killing  many.  The  only  white  man  injured  was 
Sergeant  William  Hill,  who  was  severely  wounded  in  the  arm  and  cheek  by  a  bullet 
from  the  gun  of  one  of  his  companions.  Returning  now  to  Goose  lake  and  then  home- 
ward, they  were  mustered  out  of  service  at  Jacksonville  on  November  6,  1854. 

Before  closing  this  account  of  the  events  of  1854,  there  is  mention  to  be  made  of 

two    murders  committed  by  Indians,  the  one  of Stewart,  an   immigrant,  while 

proceeding  westward  on  the  wagon  trail,  in  September;  the  other  that  of  Edward 
Phillips.  The  latter  homicide  occurred  on  the  Applegate,  about  the  middle  of  April. 
It  was  supposed  to  have  been  the  deed  of  certain  Indians  residing  thereabouts,  but 
which  was  laid  to  the  charge  of  the  tribe  on  Rogue  river.  Captain  Smith  detailed  a 
detachment  to  inquire  into  the  matter,  whose  commanding  officer  reported  that  the 
man  had  been  killed  in  his  own  cabin,  and  evidently  for  the  purpose  of  robbery,  as  his 
gun,  ammunition  and  tools  had  been  taken. 

As  we  have  seen,  the  greater  part  of  the  difficulties  which  occurred  during  the 
year  1854,  were  outside  of  the  Rogue  river  valley,  but  they  were  still  near  enough  to 
keep  a  portion  of  its  inhabitants  in  a  state  of  alarm. 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 


CAUSES  OF  THE   WAR   OF  1855-6. 

Character  of  the  Events  of  1855— Public  Opinion— Situation  of  the  Indians— The  Speculative  Class— Murder  of 
Hill— Of  Philpot— Of  Dyer  and  McCue— The  Humbug  War— Invasion  of  Jackson  County— Resolutions— 
The  Invaders  Retire— Death  of  Keene— Murder  of  Fields  and  Cunningham— Reflections— The  Lupton 
Affair. 


The  latter  portion  of  the  history  of  Southern  Oregon's  Indian  wars 
peculiar  distinction.  It  describes  exclusively  the  strong^-  struggles  of  a  single  tribe 
against  extermination ;  it  tells  their  slow  and  gradual  yielding,  and  finally  the  last  act 
of  their  existence  which  bears  interest  to  us  ;  namely,  their  exile  from  the  land  of 
their  birth.  The  subject  which  we  took  up  lightly  at  the  year  1827  has  assumed  a 
weightier  character.  Year  by  year  the  irrepressible  conflict  of  races  has  taken  on 
more  alarming  symptoms.  The  unavoidable  termination  as  it  approached,  bore  to  the 
people  a  more  serious  import.  We  can  imagine  the  situation  as  after  a  lapse  of  nearly 
three  decades  we  philosophize  upon  the  subject.  The  Indians  toward  the  end  of  1855 
are  growing  restless,  even  desperate.  The  have  long  felt  and  now  recognize  the  tight- 
ening bands  of  an  adverse  civilization  strangling  them.     The  white  men   who   came 


3 

2  "o 


15 


CO    a  I— 


CD 


INDIAN  WARS.  237 

with  fail-  ^tromises,  wlio  bvouglit  trifling  presents,  iind  who  broke  their  words  as  twigs 
are  broken,  outnumbered  them  by  far.  In  the  miuds  of  the  whites  distrust  increases. 
There  has  also  crept  in  a  new  element  and  an  influential  one.  Speculative  gentlemen 
nuised  upon  the  profits  of  an  Indian  war,  and  took  note  how  surely  government  reim- 
bursed the  contractors,  the  packers,  the  soldiers,  of  previous  wars.  Being  without 
other  means  of  accumulating  wealth,  why  should  they  not  keep  an  eye  open  to  the 
chance  of  a  war  against  the  Indians.  "A  good  crop  pays  well,  but  a  good  lively  cam- 
paign is  vastly  more  lucrative."  These  few  schemers  were  ready  to  take  advantage  oL 
a  war,  and  doubly  ready  with  their  little  bills ;  bills  that  the  government  found  so 
exhorbitant  that  it  took  alarm — imagined  a  grand  conspiracy  to  bring  on  a  war  and  by 
such  means  to  defraud  the  treasury ;  and,  finally,  would  pay  no  bills,  not  even  those 
of  honest  volunteers  who  had  periled  life  and  limb  in  the  country's  need.  Years  after, 
there  came  J.  Ross  Browne,  as  treasury  agent,  who  looked  into  the  matter  and  found 
therein  nothing  but  the  traces  of  shrewd  contractors  and  unscrupulous  purveyors,  and 
he  bore  evidence  to  the  honesty  and  uprightness  of  the  people,  and  to  the  legitimacy 
of  the  war.  But  this  is  a  digression  from  our  topic.  The  events  of  I800  are  easily 
suscejatible  of  arrangement  in  historical  form.  Those  which  precede  the  beginning  of 
hostilities  (which  took  place  October  eighth),  we  are  enabled  to  arrange  in  three  series 
with  reference  to  their  locality,  date  of  occurrence,  and  cause. 

We  are  informed  that  on  May  8,  1855, Hill  was  attacked  and   killed   on 

Indian  creek,  in  Siskiyou  county,  California.  Primarily  this  information  is  obtained 
from  the  official  list  of  white  persons  killed  by  Indians,  referred  to  as  the  work  of  a 
legislative  committee.  The  next  entry  is  to  the  effect  that  "  Jerome  Dyar  and  Daniel 
McKew"  were  killed  on  the  first  of  June,  on  the  road  from  Jacksonville  to  the  Illinois 
valley,  and  that,  as  in  the  former  case,  the  killing  was  done  by  Rogue  River  Indians. 
On  June  second,  says  the  report,  Philpot  was  killed  by  the  same  Indians,  in  Deer 
creek  valley.  These  constitute  a  chain  of  events  to  which  particular  attention  should 
be  paid  in  order  to  ascertain  the  comparative  trustworthiness  of  the  publication  quoted 
from. 

From  a  careful  comparison  of  accounts,  oral  as  well  as  printed,  it  appears  that  a 
party  of  Illinois  Indians,  belonging  possibly  to  Limpy's  band,  but  more  likely  being 
the  remnant  of  those  active  and  formidable  savages  who  so  boldly  resisted  the  attacks 
l)((th  of  the  regulars  and  the  miners,  as  described  in  foregoing  pages,  went  over  to  the 
Klamath  river  about  Happy  Camp,  and  robbed  some  miners'  cabins,  and  then  proceed- 
ing to  Indian  creek,  killed  a  man  named  Hill — sometimes  sjielled  Hull — and  precip- 
itately returning,  stole  some  cattle  from  Hay's  ranch  (afterwards  Thornton's),  and  took 
their  booty  to  the  hills  at  the  head  of  Slate  creek.  On  the  day  following,  Samuel  Frve 
set  out  from  Hay's  ranch  with  a  force  of  eight  men,  and  following  the  Indians  into  the 
hills,  came  upon  them  and  killed  or  mortally  wounded  three  of  them,  as  the  whites 
reported.  The  latter  i-etired  and  probably  were  follow^ed,  as  on  the  next  day,  while 
returning  with  re-inforcements,  it  was  found  that  the  Indians  had  gone  to  Deer  creek 
and  murdered  Philpot  and  seriously  wounded  James  Mills.  The  neighboring  settlers 
and  others  moved  immediately  to  Yarnall's  stockade  for  safety,  while  Frye,  with  his 
military  comj)any,  now  increased  to  twenty  men,  were  active  in  protecting  them,  and 
seeking  tlic  Indians.     News  was  sent  to  Fort  Lane,  and  Lieutenant  Switzer  with  a  force 


238  INDIAN  AVARS. 

of  twelve  men  came  down  and  entered  npon  the  search,  only  to  find  that  the  Indians 
had  murdered  Jerome  Dyer  and  Daniel  McCiie,  on  the  Applegate,  where  they  had 
gone  on  their  supposed  way  to  the  Klamath  lakes.  A  day  or  so  later  the  Indians, 
finding  their  way  blocked  for  escape  to  the  eastward,  surrendered  to  the  troof)s  and 
were  taken  to  the  Fort  for  safe  keeping,  as  there  were  no  regularly  constituted  author- 
ities to  receive  them,  and  if  once  allowed  to  go  out  of  the  power  of  the  soldiers  would 
infallibly  have  been  killed  by  the  citizens,  as  indeed  they  well  deserved.  The  Indians, 
.  fourteen  in  number  were  brought  up  to  the  reserve,  but  Chief  Sam  put  in  forcible 
objections  against  their  being  allowed  to  come  among  his  people,  saying  that  some 
whites  Avere  endeavoring  to  raise  disturbances  among  the  latter,  and  their  own  good 
name  would  suffer,  etc.  To  this  Captain  Smith  and  Agent  Ambrose  assented,  and  pro- 
vided a  place  for  the  Indians  at  Fort  Lane,  where  they  were  kept  under  guard,  as 
much  to  prevent  whites  from  killing  them  as  to  discourage  them  from  running  away. 
The  next  sequence  of  events  that  deserves  notice,  constitutes  the  "  Humbug  War," 
well  known  by  that  name  in  Northern  California.  The  whole  matter,  which  at  one 
time  threatened  to  assume  serious  proportions,  grew  out  of  a  plain  case  of  drunk.  Two 
Indians — whether  Shastas,  Klamaths,  or  Rogue  Rivers  there  is  no  evidence  to  show, 
but  presumably  from  the  locality  of  the  former  tribe — procured  liquor  and  became 
intoxicated,  and  while  passing  along  Humbug  creek  in  California,  were  met  by  one 
Peterson,  who  foolishly  meddled  with  them.  Becoming  enraged,  one  of  the  Indians 
shot  him,  inflicting  a  mortal  wound;  as  he  fell  he  drew  his  own  revolver  and  shot  his 
opponent  in  the  abdomen.  The  Indians  started  for  the  Klamath  river  at  full  speed, 
while  the  alarm  was  given.  Two  companies  of  men  were  instantly  formed  and  sent  out 
to  arrest  the  perpetrators.  The  information  that  an  Indian  had  shot  a  white  man  was 
enough  to  arouse  the  whole  community,  and  no  punishment  would  have  been  deemed 
severe  enough  for  the  culprit  if  he  had  been  taken.  The  citizens  found  on  the  next 
day  a  party  of  Indians  who  refused  to  answer  their  questions  as  they  wished,  so  they 
arrested  three  of  them  and  set  out  for  Humbug  with  them.  While  on  the  road,  two  of 
the  three  escaped,  the  other  one  was  taken  to  Humbug,  examined  before  a  justice  of  the 
peace  and  for  want  of  evidence  discharged.  When  the  two  escaped  prisoners  returned 
to  their  camp,  it  was  the  signal  for  a  massacre  of  whites.  That  night  (July  28)  the 
Indians  of  that  band  passed  down  the  Klamath,  killing  all  but  three  of  the  men  work- 
ing between  Little  Humbug  and  Horse  creeks.  Eleven  met  their  death  at  that  time, 
being  William  Hennessy,  Edward  Parish,  Austin  W.  Gay,  Peter  Hignight,  John  Pol- 
lock, four  Frenchmen  and  two  Mexicans.  Excitement  knew  no  bounds ;  every  man 
constituted  himself  an  exterminator  of  Indians,  and  a  great  many  of  that  unfortunate 
race  were  killed,  without  the  least  reference  to  their  possible  guilt  or  innocence-  Many 
miserable  captives  were  deliberately  shot,  hanged  or  knocked  into  abandoned  prospect 
holes  to  die.  Over  twenty-five  natives,  mostly  those  who  had  always  been  friendly,  were 
thus  disposed  of.  Even  infancy  and  old  age  were  not  safe  from  these  "  avengers,"  who 
were  composed  chiefly  of  the  rowdy  or  "  sporting  "  class. 

Meantime  some  had  said  that  the  Indians  who  had  committed  the  massacre  had 
gone  north.  On  the  dissemination  of  this  report,  preparations  for  a  pursuit  were 
rapidly  made,  and  about  the  first  of  August  five  companies  of  volunteers  started  for 
the  north  side  of  the  Klamath.     These  were  commanded  by  Captains  Hale,  Lynch, 


INDIAN  WARS.  239 

Martin,  Kelly  and  Ream — the  latter's  men  being  monnted,  while  the  others  were  on 
foot.  The  total  force  amounted  to  about  two  hundred.  The  Indians  were  found  to 
have  fled  beyond  the  Klamath,  and  the  volunteers,  findino-  their  trail,  followed  it 
closely.  The  jiursued  were  carrying  the  man  whom  Peterson  wounded,  and  had  gone 
over  the  summit  of  the  Siskiyou  range,  and  down  into  the  valley  of  the  Applegate,  and 
made  for  the  reservation  at  Fort  Lane.  When  the  five  companies  reached  Sterling- 
creek,  they  camped,  finding  the  Indians  had  escaped  them  and  gone  to  the  reservation. 
Here  they  held  a  meeting,  and  like  all  Americans  in  seasons  of  public  anxiety,  jjassed 
resolutions.     Those  Avere  of  the  following  tenor : 

Sterling,  Oregon,  August  r>,  18.55. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  volunteer  companies  of  Siskiyou  county,  State  of  California,  who  have 
been  organized  for  the  jouriDOse  of  ajjprehending  and  punishing  certain  Indians  who  have  committed 
depredations  in  our  county,  E.  S.  Mowrj',  Esq.,  was  elected  chairman,  Dr.  D.  Ream,  secretary, 
and  the  following  resolutions  were  unanimously  adopted  : 

Whereas,  Certain  Indians,  composed  of  the  Klamath,  Horse  Creek,  and  a  portion  of  the  Rogue 
River  tribe,  on  or  about  the  twenty-seventh  or  twenty-eighth  of  Juh',  18.35,  came  ujion  the  Klamath 
river,  and  there  ruthlessly  and  without  provocation,  murdered  eleven  or  more  of  our  fellow-citizens 
and  friends,  a  portion  of  whom  we  know  to  have  escaped  into  the  reservation  near  Fort  Lane, 
Rogue  river  valley,  Oregon  territory,  from  the  fact  of  having  tracked  them  into  said  valley  and 
from  testimony  of  certain  responsible  and  reliable  witnesses  ;  it  is,  therefore, 

Resolved,  That  a  committee  of  five  men,  one  from  each  company  now  present,  be  chosen  to- 
present  these  resolutions  to  Captain  Smith,  U.  S.  A.,  commandant  at  Fort  Lane,  and  Mr.  Palmer ,^ 
the  Indian  agent  for  Oregon  territory.  We  would  respectfully  request  Captain  Smith,  U.  S.  A., 
and  Mr.  Palmer,  Indian  agent,  that  they  would,  if  in  their  power,  deliver  up  to  us  the  fugitive 
Indians  who  have  Hed  to  the  reservation,  in  three  days  from  this  date,  and  if  at  the  end  of  this 
time  they  are  not  delivered  to  us,  together  with  all  the  stock  and  proi^erty,  we  would  most  respect- 
fully beg  of  Cajitain  Smith,  U.  S.  A.,  and  the  Indian  agent  full  permission  to  apprehend  the  fugi- 
tive Indians,  and  take  the  property  wherever  it  may  be  found. 

Resolved,  That  if  at  the  expiration  of  three  days  the  Indians  and  property  are  not  delivered  to- 
ns, and  the  permission  to  seek  for  them  is  not  granted,  then  we  will,  on  our  own  responsibility,  go 
and  take  them  where  they  may  be  found,  at  all  and  every  hazard. 

Resolved,   That  the  following-named  gentlemen  compose  the  committee  : 

E     S.  MOWRY, 

J.    X.   Hale, 
A    D.  Lake, 
William  Parrish, 
E.  S.  MowRY,  Chairman.  A.  Hawkins, 

Dr.  D.  Re.\m,  Secretary.  Committee. 

The  committee  went  to  Fort  Lane  and  found  that  some  of  the  stock  stolen  by  tlie 
Lidians  was  there,  and  that  two  Rogue  River  Indians  who  had  been  concerned  in  the 
massacre  were  then  in  the  guard  house.  The  committee  waited  u^ion  Captain  Smith, 
jiresented  their  credentials,  and  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  stock  and  criminals. 
The  Captain  said  that  the  animals  would  be  delivered  up  on  proof  of  ownership,  but 
tluit  the  Indians  could  on  no  account  be  surrendered,  except  to  the  properly  constituted 
authorities.  Lieutenant  Mowry  then  told  him  plainly  that  they  came  after  the  Indians 
and  proposed  to  have  them,  if  it  was  necessary  to  take  them  by  force.  This  was  too 
much  for  hot-tempered  Captain  Smith  to  endure.  Threats  from  a  citizen  to  a  regular 
army  officer  were  unheard-of  in  his  experience.  He  stormed  furiously,  declined  to 
submit  to  dictation,  and  invited  the  bold  Californians  to  put  their  threats  in  execution. 
Tluy  left,  di'cliiring  tli;it  if  the  Indians  were  not  fdrthcomiui;-  in  three  davs  thcv  would 


240  INDIAN  WARS. 

take  the  fort  by  .storm.  The  camp  was  then  removed  to  a  poiut  within  three  or  t'uur 
miles  of  the  fort,  and  the  volunteers  began  to  mature  plans  for  its  capture.  Captain 
Smith  made  arrangements  to  repel  attacks,  placing  his  artillery  (two  or  three  small 
cannon)  in  position,  loaded  and  trained  upon  the  approaches,  and  suspended  the  visits 
of  troops  to  the  surrounding  cam^JS.  The  invaders  evolved  a  plan  for  making  the 
soldiers  drunk,  whereby  they  might  enter  the  fort,  but  this  fell  through  on  account  of 
communications  being  sundered  ;  and  within  a  day  or  two  they  left  for  their  homes, 
feeling  that  a  war  against  the  government  might  terminate  injuriously  to  them. 

After  the  war  of  1855-6  closed,  the  Indian  criminals  in  question,  two  in  number, 
Avere  surrendered  to  the  sheriff  of  Siskiyou,  upon  a  warrant  charging  them  with  mur- 
der. They  were  taken  to  Yreka,  and  kept  in  jail  until  the  grand  jury  met,  and  no 
indictment  being  found,  they  were  released.  But  it  ha23peued  that  a  number  of  men 
in  that  town  had  determined  that  the  savages  should  die.  As  they  walked  forth  from 
thejail  these  men  locked  arms  with  them,  led  them  out  of  town,  shot  them  and  tum- 
bled their  bodies  into  an  old  mining  shaft  where  their  bones  yet  lie. 

Years  later  appropriations  Avere  made  by  congress  for  the  pay  of  the  men  belong- 
ing to  the  five  companies,  and  about  1870  a  number  of  them  actually  received  compen- 
sation for  their  services  in  this  expedition. 

On  the  second  of  September  an  affray  occurred  in  the  upjier  part  of  Bear  creek 
valley,  Jackson  county,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  a  white  man  and  the  wounding 
of  two  others.  A  few  days  previously,  some  Indians,  by  some  supposed  to  belong  to  the 
gang  which  committed  the  eleven  murders  on  the  Klamath,  stole  some  horses  from  B. 
Alberding.  The  owner  summoned  his  neighbors  to  assist  in  recovering  them,  and  a 
very  small  company  set  out  on  the  quest.  Following  the  trail,  they  walked  into  an 
ambuscade  of  savages,  and  were  fired  upoii.  Granville  Keene  was  killed,  Alberding 
was  wounded  by  a  ball  that  struck  him  above  the  eye,  J.  Q.  Faber  was  shot  through 
the  arm,  and  another  man  received  a  wound  in  the  hand.  The  party  hastily  retired, 
leaving  the  body  of  Keene  where  it  fell.  On  the  following  day  a  detachment  of  troops 
from  Fort  Lane  proceeded  to  the  scene  of  conflict  and  obtained  the  much  mutilated 
remains,  but  the  Indians,  of  course,  were  gone.  The  savages  who  were  concerned  in 
this  diabolism  were  said  by  different  accounts  to  number  from  five  to  thirty. 

The  next  event  of  the  sort  is  a  still  more  serious  one,  which  occurred  on  the 
twenty-fifth  of  September,  and  involved  the  death  of  two  persons.  On  the  previous 
dav  Harrison  B.  Oatman  and  Daniel  P.  Brittain,  of  Phoenix,  and  Calvin  M.  Fields, 
started  from  Phoenix,  each  driving  an  ox-team  loaded  with  flour  destined  for  Yreka. 
Camping  the  first  night  near  the  foot  of  the  Siskiyou  mountains,  the  train  started  up 
the  ascent  the  next  morning,  doubling  their  teams  frequently  as  was  made  necessary 
by  the  steepness  of  the  road.  ■  When  within  three  hundred  yards  of  the  summit,  Oat- 
man and  Fields  advancing  with  two  teams  and  one  wagon,  while  Brittain  remained 
with  two  wagons  and  one  team,  the  latter  heard  five  shots  fired  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
men  in  advance.  Hurrying  up  the  rise  he  quickly  came  in  sight  of  the  teams,  which 
Avere  standing  still,  while  an  Indian  was  apjjarently  engaged  in  stripping  a  f;illen  man. 
Turning  back,  Brittain  ran  down  the  mountain,  followed  by  a  bullet  from  the  Indian's 
]  ifle,  but  made  his  way  unhurt  to  the  INIountain  House,  three  mile.s  from  the  scene  of 
the  attack.     Six  men  hastilv  mounted  and  returned  to  the  .summit.     Oatman,  mean- 


INDIAN  WARS.  241 

while  had  esfajied,  aiul  got  to  Hughes'  house  (now  Byron  Cole's)  ou  the  California 
side,  and  obtained  help.  He  reported  that  at  the  time  the  attack  began,  a  youth 
named  Cunningham,  who  was  returning  from  Yreka  with  a  team,  was  jsassing  Oatmaa 
and  Fields  when  the  attack  was  made,  and  that  he  was  wounded  at  the  instant  Fields 
fell  dead.  The  latter's  body  was  lying  in  the  road,  stripped,  but  Cunningham  was 
only  found  the  next  day,  lying  dead  by  a  tree  behind  which  he  had  taken  refuge.  The 
exact  spot  where  the  catastrophe  occurred — says  Mr.  Brittain,  who  still  resides  at 
Phaniix — is  where  the  railroad  tunnel  enters  from  the  Oregon  side.  It  is  the  gentle- 
man's ojjinion  that  about  fifteen  Indians  were  concerned  in  the  attack.  The  date 
mentioned,  September  twenty-fifth,  is  taken  from  Mr.  Robinson's  diary,  although  Mr. 
Brittain  is  of  the  opinion  that  it  took  place  three  days  later.  Newspaper  accounts 
give  the  twenty-fourth  as  the  proper  date.  On  the  following  day  Samuel  ^\  arner  was 
murdered  ou  Cottonwood  creek,  not  far  from  the  scene  of  the  other  tragedy,  and  most 
likely  by  the  same  Indians.  At  nearly  the  same  time,  two  men,  Charles  Scott  and 
Thomas  Snow,  were  killed  on  the  trail  between  Yreka  and  Scott  Bar.  These  repeated 
killings  (whose  details  are  not  now  known)  produced  a  very  considerable  degree  of 
alarm,  but  no  military  measures  of  importance  were  taken,  except  by  the  officials  at 
Fort  Lane,  who  sent  forty  mounted  troops  to  the  various  scenes  of  bloodshed,  but  these 
returned  without  having  effected  anything. 

Our  account  now  approaches  the  beginning  of  the  war  of  1855-6,  by  some  thought 
to  have  been  the  result  of  the  incidents  above  recounted.  It  is  truly  difficult  at  this 
time  to  accord  these  circumstances  their  proper  influence  in  the  acts  which  followed. 
It  is  evident  that  the  people  of  Rogue  river  valley  toward  the  end  of  the  summer  of 
1855,  must  have  felt  an  additional  degTce  of  insecurity,  but  that  it  was  wholly  in  con- 
sequence of  the  murders  which  had  previously  taken  place  does  not  seem  probable, 
inasmuch  as  these  murders  were  committed  outside  the  valley.  Their  legitimate  results 
could  hardly  have  been  sufficient  to  stir  up  a  general  war  against  the  Indians,  so  we 
are  left  to  conjecture  the  growth  of  a  public  sentiment  determined  upon  war.  The 
vast  majority  of  settlers,  wearied  of  constant  anxiety,  heartily  and  unaffectedly  believed 
that  the  removal  of  the  Indians  was  desirable  and  necessary.  Whatever  may  have 
been  the  exact  status  of  the  war  party,  and  whatever  the  influence  of  the  speculative 
branch  of  it,  it  is  clear  there  was  no  outspoken  opposition  such  as  would  have  been 
created  by  a  general  sentiment  in  favor  of  peaceful  methods.  Almost  the  only  out- 
spoken advocate  of  Indians'  rights  was  compelled  to  leave  the  country  of  his  adoption 
from  fear  of  personal  violence.  Whoever  doubts  the  acerbity  of  public  sentiment  at 
that  date,  will  do  well  to  pause  here  and  digest  that  statement,  comparing  with  it  the 
tenor  of  the  editorial  remarks  to  be  found  in  the  Sentinel  at  that  time.  If  that  paper 
were  a  truthful  exponent  of  public  opinion,  and  we  believe  it  was,  there  must  have 
existed  a  condition  of  feeling  analogous  to  that  in  the  southern  states  in  the  months 
preceding  the  rebellion.  If  such  publications  may  be  trusted  to  gauge  public  senti- 
ment, the  feeling  of  absolute  enmity  against  the  natives  must  have  increased  ten-fold 
since  the  signing  of  the  Lane  treaty.  And  as  there  wa.s  nothing  in  the  conduct  of  the 
Indians  to  fully  warrant  this,  we  shall  not,  probably,  be  for  out  of  the  way  in  assign- 
ing much  of  it  to  the  influence  of  those  who,  for  various  reasons,  desired  war.  Un- 
doul)tedIy  tliis  view  will  foil  to  i)lease  those  whose  belief  as  to  the  cause  of  the  war  of 


242  INDIAN  WAES. 

185.5-6  is  fouuJed  ui^ou  current  traditions;  but  such  should  remember  that  those  tradi- 
tions date  their  commencement  from  a  time  when  it  was  extremely  unjjopular,  even  dan- 
gerous, to  oppose  the  war,  and  as  unpopular  to  print  or  sjjeak  anything  of  an  opposing 
character.  It  has  thus  far  been  regarded  as  indisputable  fact  that  Indian  outrages 
brought  on  the  war,  and  were  the  sole  cause  of  it.  Keeping  in  view  the  principle  with 
which  we  set  out,  that  the  war  was  unavoidable  from  the  very  nature  of  things,  it  seems 
a  fair  and  impartial  conclusion  that  it  could  have  been,  by  the  use  of  tact  and  justice, 
postponed  at  least  for  a  time.  Instances  might  be  multiplied  to  show  the  drift  of 
public  sentiment  at  the  time  of  which  we  speak;  pages  might  be  written  and  endless 
quotations  made;  but  it  would  seem  that  the  foregoing  paragraphs  set  forth  the  state 
of  affairs  with  sufficient  clearness.  The  existence  of  a  war  party  was  assured;  and  with 
the  uuexiJiected  stimulus  of  the  terrible  massacre  of  October  ninth,  this  war  i^arty 
proved  powerful  enough  to  effect  the  deportation  of  the  Indians — a  fact  not  to  be 
regretted.  Previous  to  that  date  no  excuses  were  deemed  necessary  for  even  the  most 
violent  measures;  but  when  criticism  subsequently  awoke,  editorials  were  written, 
affidavits  prepared,  and  another  war  (of  words)  was  fought  to  prove  the  first  one  neces- 
sary. For  as  matters  then  existed  outside  sympathy  had  to  be  created — the  conscien- 
ces of  some  people  had  to  be  calmed — some  men  had  to  be  made  heroes  of — appropri- 
ations had  to  be  got — and  congress  had  to  be  won  over. 

It  is  undoubtedly  true  that  those  writers  and  speakers  who  have  attempted  to 
apologize  for  or  extenuate  certain  acts  having  a  bearing  on  the  question  have  most 
blunderingly  performed  their  task.  To  effect  this  end  required  a  high  degree  of  tact 
and  skill,  both  of  which  it  would  appear  were  wanting  at  that  date.  For  example  : 
Although  we  have  evidence  to  show  that  the  Lupton  incident  was  the  work  partly  of 
hair-brained  enthusiasts  and  ^^rofessed  ruffians  who  in  no  sense  rejwesented  the  com- 
munity, still  their  act  was  adopted  and  defended  by  those  who  took  it  upon  themselves 
to  advocate  the  what  they  styled  the  cause  of  the  people  of  Southern  Oregon.  The  act 
should  have  been  promptly  repudiated  as  of  too  brutal  a  nature  to  represent  the  wishes 
of  an  enlightened  and  humane  public.  In  other  respects  these  apologists  far  overstepped 
the  bounds  of  tact  and  prudence.  Officials  of  the  United  States  government  were 
antagonized,  thereby  endangering  governmental  support.  Column  after  column  of  the 
Sentinel,  the  only  paper  then  published  south  of  Salem,  was  filled  with  abuse  of  Gene- 
ral Wool,  Joel  Palmer  and  other  officials,  and  violent  recriminations  concerning  the 
conduct  of  the  war  generally.  The  result  of  this  was  that  the  government  become  sus- 
picious and  sent  an  agent  to  investigate,  as  has  been  before  remarked. 

It  has  always  been  regarded  as  a  remarkable  circumstance  that  the  Indians  ou 
and  near  the  reservation  should  have  been  (with  the  exception  of  Sam's  band)  fully 
prepared  for  an  outbreak  exactly  at  the  time  when  the  "  exterminators  "  made  their 
attack  at  the  mouth  of  Little  Butte  creek,  thereby  furnishing  an  all  sufficient  reason 
for  such  outbreak.  A  still  more  suggestive  fact  is  the  simultaneous  beginning  of  war 
in  Oregon  and  Washington  territory — a  fact  so  striking  as  to  suggest  the  collusion  of 
those  widely  separated  tribes.  How  this  concert  of  action  was  brought  about,  several 
have  attempted  to  explain,  but  never  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  Leaving  this  subject 
we  will  proceed  to  consider  the  Lupton  affair. 


INDIAN  WARS.  243 

Oil  the  seventh  of  October,  1855,  a  jmrty  of  men,  priucii)ally  miners  and  men- 
a bout-town,  in  Jacksonville,  organized  and  armed  themselves  to  the  number  of  about 
forty  (accounts  disagree  as  to  number),  and  under  the  nominal  leadership  of  Captain 
Hays  and  Major  James  A.  Luptou,  representative-elect  to  the  territorial  legislature^ 
proceeded  to  attack  a  small  band  of  Indians  encamped  on  the  north  side  of  Kogue  river 
near  the  moutli  of  Little  Butte  creek  a  few  miles  above  Table  Rock.  Lupton,  it  appears, 
was  a  man  of  no  experience  in  bush  fighting,  but  was  rash  and  headstrong.  His  mili- 
tary title,  says  Colonel  Ross,  was  unearned  in  war  and  was  probably  gratuitous.  It  is 
the  prevailing  opinion  that  be  was  led  into  the  affair  through  a  wish  to  court  popu- 
larity, which  is  almost  the  only  incentive  that  could  have  occurred  to  him.  Certainly 
it  could  not  have  been  plunder;  and  the  mere  love  of  fighting  which  jH'obably  drew  the 
greater  part  of  the  force  together  was  j^erhaps  absent  in  his  case.  The  reason  why  the 
particular  band  at  Butte  creek  was  selected  as  victims  also  appears  a  mystery,  although 
the  circumstances  of  their  location  being  accessible,  their  numbers  small,  and  their 
reputation  as  fighters  very  slight,  possibly  were  the  ruling  considerations.  This  band 
of  Indians  apjDear  to  have  behaved  themselves  tolerably  ;  they  were  pretty  fair  Indians, 
but  beggars,  and  on  occasion  thieves.  They  had  been  concerned  in  no  considerable 
outrages  that  are  distinctly  specified.  The  attacking  party  arrived  at  the  river  on  the 
evening  of  the  seventh,  and  selecting  a  hiding  place,  remained  therein  until  daylight, 
the  appointed  time  for  the  attack.  The  essential  particulai's  of  the  fight  which  followed 
are,  when  separated  from  a  tangle  of  contradictory  minutiae,  that  Lupton  and  his  party 
fired  a  volley  into  the  crowded  encampment,  following  up  the  sudden  and  totally  unex- 
pected attack  by  a  close  encounter  with  knives,  revolver's,  and  whatever  weajion  they 
were  possessed  of,  and  the  Indians  were  driven  away  or  killed  without  making  much 
resistance.  These  facts  are  matters  of  evidence,  as  are  also  the  killing  of  several  squaws, 
one  or  more  old  decrej)it  men,  and  a  number,  probably  small,  of  children.  The  un- 
essential particulars  vary  greatly.  For  instance.  Captain  Smith  reported  to  govern- 
ment that  eighty  Indians  were  slaughtered.  Other  observers,  perhaps  less  prejudiced, 
placed  the  number  at  thirty.  Certain  accounts,  notably  that  contributed  to  the  States- 
man by  A.  J.  Kane,  denied  that  there  were  any  "  bucks  "  present  at  the  fight,  the 
whole  number  of  Indians  being  women,  old  men,  and  children.  It  is  worth  while  to 
note  that  Mr.  A.  J.  Kane  promptly  retracted  this  supposed  injurious  statement,  and  in 
a  card  to  the  Sentinel  said  he  believed  there  ivere  some  bucks  present.  Certain  "Indian 
fighters,"  also  appended  their  names  to  the  card. 

The  exact  con.dition  of  things  at  the  fight,  or  massacre,  as  some  have  characterized 
it,  is  difficult  to  determine.  Accounts  vary  so  widely  that  by  some  it  has  been  termed  a 
heroic  attack,  worthy  of  Leonidasor  Alexander;  others  have  called  it  an  indiscriminate 
butchery  of  defenceless  and  peaceful  natives,  the  earliest  possessors  of  the  soil.  To 
temporize  with  such  occurrences  does  not  become  those  who  seek  the  truth  only,  and 
the  world  would  be  better  could  such  deeds  meet  at  once  the  proper  penalty  and  be 
known  by  their  proper  name.  Whether  or  not  Indian  men  were  present  does  not  con- 
cern the  degree  of  criminality  attached  to  it.  The  attack  was  indiscriminately  against 
all.  The  Indians  were  at  peace  with  the  whites  and  therefore  unprepared.  To  fitly 
characterize  the  whole  proceeding,  is  to  say  that  it  was  Indian-like. 


244  INDIAN  WARS. 

The  results  of  the  matter,  were  the  deatli  of  Luptoii,  who  was  mortally  wounded 
by  an  arrow  which  penetrated  his  lungs,  the  wounding  of  a  young  man,  Shepherd  by 
name,  the  killing  of  at  least  a  score  of  Indians,  mainly  old  men,  and  the  revengeful 
outbreak  on  the  part  of  the  Indians,  whose  account  forms  the  most  important  part  of 
this  history. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 


THE   MASSACRE   OF    OCTOBER  NINTH,   AND  WAR   IN    GRAVE   CREEK    HILLS. 

A  Memorable  Day— The  Indians  Leave  the  Reservation— The  Murder  of  Twenty  People  Women  in  Cap- 
tivity-Mrs. Harris  Defends  her  Family -Volunteers  to  the  Rescue— General  State  of  Alarm— An  Army 
Organized — An  Example  of  Promptness  Siege  of  Galice  Creek  — Discovery  of  the  Indians'  Where- 
abouts-Lieutenant Kautz  Surprised— Expedition  to  Hungry  Hill— Battle  at  Bloody  Spring— A  Defeat- 
Causes-  The  Volunteers  and  Regulars  Disagree— A  Parallel— Proclamation  of  Governor  Curry— Army 
Reorganized — The   Indians   Retreat  to   the  Meadows. 

Immediately  succeeding  the  event  last  detailed,  came  a  series  of  startling  and 
lamentable  occurrences,  which  j^roduced  an  impression  on  the  community  which 
the  la|3se  of  over  a  quarter  of  a  century  has  by  no  means  effaced.  The  ninth  of 
October,  1855,  has  justly  been  called  the  most  eventful  day  in  the  history  of  Southern 
Oregon.  On  that  day  nearly  twenty  persons  lost  their  lives,  victims  to  Indian  ferocity 
and  cruelty.  Their  murder  lends  a  somber  interest  to  the  otherwise  dry  details  of 
Indian  skirmishes,  and  furnishes  many  a  romantic  though  saddening  page  to  the 
annalist  who  would  write  the  minute  history  of  those  times.  A  portion  of  the  incidents 
of  that  awful  day  have  been  written  for  publications  of  wide  circulation,  and  thus  have 
become  a  part  of  the  country's  stock-in-trade  of  Indian  tales.  Certain  of  them  have 
taken  their  place  in  the  history  of  our  country  along  with  the  most  stirring  and  romantic 
episodes  of  border  warfare.  Many  and  varied  are  this  country's  legends  of  hair- 
breadth escapes  and  heroic  defense  against  overpowering  odds.  There  is  nothing  told 
in  any  language  to  surjiass  in  daring  and  devotion  the  memorable  defense  of  the  Har- 
ris home.  Mrs.  Wagner's  mysterious  fate  still  bears  a  melancholy  interest,  and  while 
time  endures  the  people  of  this  region  cannot  forget  the  mournfully  tragic  end  of  all 
who  died  on  that  fateful  day. 

As  the  present  memories  describe  it,  the  attack  was  by  most  people  wholly  unex- 
jjected,  in  sj)ite  of  the  jirevious  months  of  anxiety.  The  recklessness  of  the  whites 
who  precipitated  the  outbreak  by  their  conduct  at  the  Indian  village  above  Table  Kock^ 
had  left  unwarned  the  outlying  settlers,  upon  whose  defenseless  and  innocent  heads 
fell  the  storm  of  barbaric  vengeance.     Early  on   the  morning  of  October  ninth,  the 


' 


^4"S^t 


INDIAN  WARS.  245 

hands  of  several  of  the  more  warlike  chiefs  gathered  at  or  near  Table  Rock,  set  out 
traveling  westward,  down  the  river,  and  transporting  their  families,  their  arms  and 
other  property,  and  bent  on  war.  It  is  not  at  this  moment  possible  to  ascertain  the 
names  of  those  chiefs,  nor  the  number  of  their  braves  ;  but  it  has  been  thought  that 
Limpy,  the  chief  of  the  Illinois  band,  with  George,  chief  of  the  lower  Rogue  river 
band,  were  the  most  prominent  and  influential  Indians  concerned  in  the  matter.  Their 
numbers,  if  we  follow  the  most  reliable  accounts,  would  indicate  that  from  thirty-five 
to  fifty  Indians  performed  the  murders  of  which  we  have  now  to  discourse.  Their  first 
act  was  to  murder  William  Goin  or  Going,  a  teamster,  native  of  Missouri,  and  em- 
ployed on  the  reservation,  where  he  inhabited  a  small  hut  or  house.  Standing  by  the 
fire-jilace  in  conversation  with  Clinton  Schieffelin,  he  was  fatally  shot,  at  two  o'clock  in 
the  morning.  The  particular  individuals  who  accomplished  this  killing  were,  says 
Mr.  !~(chieft'elin,  members  of  John's  band  of  Applegates,  who  were  encamped  on  Ward 
creek,  a  mile  above  its  mouth,  and  twelve  miles  distant  from  the  camp  of  Sam's  band. 
Hurrying  through  the  darkness  to  Jewett's  ferry  these  hostiles,  now  reinforced  by 
the  baud  of  Limpy  and  George,  found  there  a  j^ack-train  loaded  with  mill-irons. 
Hamilton,  the  man  in  charge  of  it,  was  killed,  and  another  individual  was  severely 
wounded,  being  hit  in  four  i)laces.  They  next  began  firing  at  Jewett's  house,  within 
which  were  several  persons  in  bed,  it  not  being  yet  daylight.  Meeting  with  resistance 
they  gave  up  the  attack  and  moved  to  Evans'  ferry,  which  they  reached  at  daybreak. 
Here  they  shot  Isaac  Shelton,  of  Willamette  valley,  en  route  for  Yreka.  He  lived 
twenty  hours.  The  next  victim  was  Jones,  jiroprietor  of  a  ranch,  whom  they  shot 
dead  near  his  house.  His  body  w'as  nearly  devoured  by  hogs  before  it  was  found. 
The  house  was  set  on  fire,  and  Mrs.  Jones  was  pursued  by  an  Indian  and  shot  with  a 
I'evolver,  when  she  fell  senseless,  and  the  savage  retired  supposing  her  dead.  She 
revived  and  was  taken  to  Tufts'  place  and  lived  a  day.  O.  P.  Robbins,  Jones'  part- 
ner, was  hunting  cattle  at  some  distance  from  the  house.  Getting  upon  a  stum^i  he 
looked  about  him  and  saw  the  house  on  fire.  Correctly  judging  that  Indians  were 
abroad,  he  proceeded  to  Tufts  and  Evans'  places  and  secured  the  help  of  three  men, 
but  the  former  place  the  Indians  had  already  vi.sited  and  shot  Mrs.  Tufts  through  the" 
body,  but  being  taken  to  Illinois  valley  she  recovered.  Six  miles  north  of  Evans 
ferry  the  Indians  fell  in  with  and  killed  two  men  who  were  transporting  supplies  from 
the  Willamette  valley  to  the  mines.  They  took  the  two  horses  from  the  wagon,  and 
went  on.  The  house  of  J.  B.  Wagner  was  burned,  Mrs.  Wagner  being  2>i'Pviously 
murdered,  or,  as  an  unsubstantiated  story  goes,  she  was  compelled  to  remain  in  it  until 
dead.  This  is  refinement  of  horrors  indeed.  For  a  time  her  fate  was  unknown,  but 
it  was  finally  settled  thus.  Mary,  her  little  daughter,  was  taken  to  the  Meadows,  on 
lower  Rogue  river,  some  weeks  after,  according  to  the  Indians'  own  accounts,  but  died 
there.  Mr.  Wagner  being  from  home  escaped  death.  Coming  to  Haines'  house,  ]\Ir. 
Haines  being  ill  in  bed,  they  shot  him  to  death,  killed  two  children  and  took  his 
wife  prisoner.  Her  fate  was  a  sad  one,  and  is  yet  wrapi)ed  in  mystery.  It  seems 
likely,  from  the  stories  told  by  the  Indians,  that  the  unlia2)py  woman  died  al)out  ;i 
week  afterwards,  from  the  effects  of  a  fever  aggravated  by  improper  food.  When  the 
subsecpient  war  raged,  a  thousand  in(piiries  were  made  concerning  the  captive,  and 


246  INDIAN  AVAKS. 

not  a  stone  was  left  unturned  to  solve  the  mystery.  The  evidence  that  exists  bearing 
upon  the  subject  is  unsatisfactory  indeed,  but  may  be  deemed  sufficiently  conclusive. 

At  about  nine  o'clock  a.  m.,  the  savages  approached  the  house  of  Mr.  Harris,  about 
ten  miles  north  of  Evans',  where  dwelt  a  family  of  four — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Harris  and 
their  two  children,  Mary  aged  twelve,  and  David  aged  ten  years.  With  them  resided 
T.  A.  Eeed,  an  unmarried  man  employed  by  or  with  Mr.  Harris  in  farmwork.  Reed 
was  some  distance  from  the  house,  and  was  set  upon  by  a  party  of  the  band  of  hostiles 
and  killed,  no  assistance  being  near.  His  skeleton  was  found  a  year  after.  David, 
the  little  son  of  the  fated  family,  had  gone  to  a  field  at  a  little  distance,  and  in  all 
likelihood  was  taken  into  the  woods  by  his  captors  and  slain,  as  he  was  never  after 
heard  of.  Some  have  thought  that  he  was  taken  away  and  adopted  into  the  tribe — a 
theory  that  seems  hardly  probable,  as  his  presence  would  have  become  known  when 
the  entire  baud  of  hostiles  surrendered  several  months  afterward.  It  seems  more 
probable  that  the  unfortunate  youth  was  taken  prisoner,  and  proving  an  inconvenience 
to  his  brutal  captors,  was  by  them  unceremoniously  murdered  and  his  corpse  thrown 
aside,  where  it  remained  undiscovered.  Mr.  Harris  was  surprised  by  the  Indians,  and 
retreating  to  the  house,  was  shot  in  the  breast  as  he  reached  the  door.  His  wife,  with 
the  greatest  courage  and  presence  of  mind,  closed  and  barred  the  door,  and  in  obedi- 
ence to  her  wounded  husband's  advice,  brought  down  the  fire-arms  which  the  house 
contained — a  rifie,  a  double  shotgun,  a  revolver  and  a  single-barreled  pistol — and 
began  to  fire  at  the  Indians,  hardly  with  the  expectation  of  hitting  them,  but  to  deter 
them  from  assaulting  or  setting  fire  to  the  house.  Previous  to  this  a  shot  fired  by  the 
Indians  had  wounded  her  little  daughter  in  the  arm,  making  a  painful  but  not  danger- 
ous flesh  wound,  and  the  terrified  child  climbed  to  the  attic  of  the  dwelling  where  she 
remained  for  several  hours.  Throughout  all  this  time  the  heroic  woman  kept  the 
savages  at  bay,  and  attended  as  well  as  she  was  able  to  the  wants  of  her  fearfully 
wounded  husband,  who  expired  in  about  an  hour  after  he  was  shot.  Fortunately,  she 
had  been  taught  the  use  of  fire-arms;  and  to  this  she  owed  her  preservation  and  that 
of  her  daughter.  The  Indians,  who  could  be  seen  moving  about  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
bouse,  wei'e  at  pains  to  keep  within  cover  and  dared  not  approach  near  enough  to  set 
fire  to  the  dwelling,  although  they  burned  the  out-buildings,  first  taking  the  horses 
from  the  stable.  Mrs.  Harris  steadily  loaded  her  weapons,  and  fired  them  through 
the  crevices  between  the  logs  of  which  the  house  was  built.  In  the  afternoon,  though 
at  what  time  it  was  impossible  for  her  to  tell,  the  Indians  drew  off  and  left  the  stout- 
hearted woman  mistress  of  the  field.  She  had  saved  her  own  and  her  daughter's  life, 
and  added  a  deathless  page  to  the  record  of  the  country's  history. 

After  the  departure  of  the  savages,  the  heroine  with  her  daughter  left  the  house 
and  sought  refuge  in  a  thicket  of  willows  near  the  road,  and  remained  there  all  night. 
Next  morning  several  Indians  passed,  but  did  not  discover  them,  and  during  the  day 
a  company  of  volunteers,  hastily  collected  in  Jacksonville,  approached,  to  whom  the 
two  presented  themselves,  the  sad  survivors  of  a  once  happy  home. 

When,  on  the  ninth  of  October,  a  rider  came  dashing  into  Jacksonville  and 
quickly  told  of  the  fray,  great  excitement  prevailed,  and  men  volunteered  to  go  to  the 
aid  of  whoever  might  need  help.  Almost  immediately  a  score  of  men  were  in  their 
saddles  and  pushing  toward  the  river.     Major  Fitzgerald,  stationed  at  Fort  Lane,  went 


INDIAN  WARS.  247 

or  was  sent  by  C'aptain  Smith,  at  the  head  of  fifty-five  mouuted  men,  and  these  going 
with  the  vohinteers,  jiroceeded  along  the  track  of  ruin  and  desolation  left  by  the 
savages.  At  Wagner's  house,  some  five  or  six  volunteers  who  were  in  advance,  came 
upon  a  few  Indians  hiding  in  the  brush  near  by,  who,  unsuspicious  of  the  main  l)ody 
advancing  along  the  road,  challenged  the  whites  to  a  fight.  Major  Fitzgerald  came 
up  and  ordered  a  charge;  and  six  of  the  "red  devils"  were  killed,  and  the  rest  driven 
"on  the  jump"  to  the  hills,  but  could  not  be  overtaken.  Giving  up  the  pursuit,  the 
regulars  and  volunteers  marched  along  the  road  to  the  Harris  house,  where,  as  we 
have  seen,  they  found  the  devoted  mother  and  her  child,  and  removed  them  to  a  place 
of  safety  in  Jacksonville.  They  proceeded  to  and  camped  at  Grave  creek  that  night, 
and  returned  the  next  day. 

A  company  of  volunteei's  led  by  Captain  Rinearson  hastily  came  from  Cow 
creek,  and  scoured  the  country  about  Grave  creek  and  vicinity,  finding  quite  a  number 
of  bodies  of  murdered  men.     On  the  twenty-fifth  of  October  the  body  of  J.  B.  Powell, 

of  Lafayette,  Yamhill  county,  was  found  and  buried.     James  White  and Fox 

liad  been  previously  found  dead.  All  the  houses  along  the  Indians'  route  had  been 
robbed  and  then  burned,  with  two  or  three  exceptions. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  picture  the  state  of  alarm  which  prevailed  when  the  full 
details  of  the  massacre  Avere  made  known.  Self-preservation,  the  first  law  of  nature, 
was  exemplified  in  the  actions  of  all.  The  peojile  of  Rogue  river  valley,  j^robably 
without  exception,  withdrew  from  their  ordinary  occupations  and  "forted  up"  or  retired 
to  the  larger  settlements.  Jacksonville  was  the  objective  point  of  most  of  these  fugi- 
tives, who  came  in  on  foot,  on  horse  or  mule  back,  or  with  their  families  or  more 
portable  jjroperty  loaded  on  wagons  drawn  by  oxen.  In  every  direction  mines  were 
abandoned,  farms  and  fields  were  left  unwatched,  the  herdsman  forsook  his  charge, 
and  all  sought  refuge  from  the  common  enemy.  The  industries  which  had  suffered  a 
severe  but  only  temporary  check  in  the  summer  of  1853,  were  again  brought  to  a 
standstill,  and  the  trade  and  commerce  which  were  rapidly  building  up  Jackson  and 
her  neighboring  counties,  became  instantly  paralyzed.  All  business  and  pleasure  were 
forsaken,  to  devise  means  to  meet  and  van(|uish  the  hostile  bands.  Nor  was  this  state 
of  affairs  confined  to  the  Rogue  river  country.  Other  and  far  distant  regions  caught 
the  infection,  and  for  a  time  the  depressing  expectation  of  Indian  forays  racked  many 
a  breast.  The  people  of  far  removed  districts  devised  means  of  defense  from  imagi- 
nary foes.  The  Methodists  of  the  Tualatin  plains,  in  peaceful  Washington  county, 
built  a  stockade  about  their  little  church,  within  which,  unterrified  l)y  imminent 
danger,  they  might  worship  God  as  did  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  while  their  red-skinned 
adversaries  howled  and  beat  upon  their  impregnable  fortress.  An  imaginary  host  of 
Indians  threatened  the  Willamette  valley  from  north,  from  south  and  from  east. 
Three  hundred  Klamath  warriors  had  arrived,  it  was  rumored,  at  the  head  of  the 
Santiam,  and  were  preparing  to  rush  upon  the  defenseless  settlements  below.  Indian 
alarmists  at  Salem  and  Portland  projected  measures  of  defense,  and  boiled  over  in 
indignation  when  their  advice  was  rejected.  A  safety  meeting  was  held  at  Corvallis 
because  three  hundred  Cow  Creek  Indians  were  said  to  have  come  north  of  the  Cala- 
pooia  mountains,  and  threatened  the  lives  of  all.  The  Oregon  papers  of  that  date 
wen-  full  <if  matter  cMlcuhited  to  show  the  extreme  state  of  apprehension   wliicli    like  a 


248  INDIAN  WARS. 

Avave  swept  over  this  fair  land.  It  will  be  believed  that  there  was  ample  reason  for 
such  a  feeling  in  those  Avho  lived  south  of  the  Calapooias.  The  settlers  on  the 
Umpqua  and  its  tributaries  were  obviously  endangered,  nor  did  they  escape  the  incon- 
veniencies,  and  in  some  cases,  the  actual  presence  of  war.  They,  like  their  less  fortu- 
nate friends  on  the  Rogue  river,  "forted  up,"  that  is,  retired  to  places  of  safety,  and 
there  remained  until  the  Indian  scare  had  settled  down  to  steady  warfare.  At  Scotts- 
burg,  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from  the  seat  of  war,  the  inhabitants  thus  took 
refuge.  The  commonest  form  of  protective  structure  was  a  house  of  logs  with  loop- 
holes between,  through  which  a  fire  of  small-arms  might  be  kept  up.  At  other  jilaces 
more  elaborate  defenses  were  substituted,  the  old-fashioned  block  house,  with  its  looj^- 
holes  and  projecting  ujiper  story,  being  a  not  uncommon  sight.  Earthworks,  consist- 
ing of  rifle  pits  including  a  house,  were  a  favorite  form.  Any  structure  so  situated  as 
to  command  quite  an  area,  and  so  built  as  to  resist  rifle  bullets  and  afibrd  immunity 
against  fire,  served  for  the  temporary  habitation  of  those  who  were  driven  from  their 
own  homes. 

It  should  be  remarked  that  the  situation  in  Southern  Oregon  was  even  more  serious 
than  was  thought  possible  by  those  who  viewed  these  affairs  from  abroad,  or  thi'ough 
the  distorting  medium  of  the  newspapers.  The  people  were  beset  on  all  sides  by  sav- 
ages, they  knew  not  how  numerous,  and  who  might  strike,  they  knew  not  where.  The 
extent  of  the  Indian  uprising  was  not  at  first  understood.  The  few  Indians  who  had 
done  so  much  mischief  in  the  Siskiyou  mountains  were  now  imitated  on  a  much  graniler 
scale  by  many  times  tlieir  number  of  bolder  and  more  skillful  fighters,  who  were  well 
sui^plied  with  ammunition,  and  having  in  profusion,  guns,  rifles,  revolvers  and  knives, 
as  great  in  assortment  and  better  in  quality  than  the  whites  themselves  were  23rovided 
with.  Besides,  of  the  several  thousand  Indians  who  inhabited  Southern  Oregon,  no 
one  could  tell  which  band  might  dig  up  the  hatchet  and  go  on  the  war  parth  in  imita- 
tion of  those  who  were  already  so  actively  butchering  and  burning.  The  Table  Rock 
band,  steadfastly  friendly,  withstood  the  temptation  to  avenge  their  undoubted  griev- 
ances, and  remained  upon  the  reservation,  thereby  diminishing  the  enemy's  force  very 
considerably.  The  Coast  Indians,  formidable  and  dangerous  barbarians,  as  yet  had 
not  been  influenced  to  join  the  malcontents,  but  we  shall  see  how  at  a  later  date  they 
became  hostile  and  equalled  their  allies  in  savagery  and  bloodthirstiness. 

To  oppose  such  an  array  of  active  murderers  and  incendiaries,  the  genei-al  gov- 
ernment had  a  small  number  of  troops  unfitted  to  perform  the  duties  of  Indian  fighting 
by  reason  of  their  unsuitable  mode  of  dress,  tactics  and  their  dependence  upon  quar- 
termaster and  commissary  trains.  The  fact  has  been  notorious  throughout  all  the 
years  of  American  independence  that  the  regular  army,  however  brave  or  well  offi- 
cered, has  not  been  uniformly  successful  in  fighting  the  Indians.  The  reasons  for  this 
every  frontiersman  knows.  They  are  as  set  forth  above.  But  upon  such  troops  the 
government  in  1855  relied  to  keep  peace  between  the  hostile  white  and  Indian  popu- 
lation in  Southern  Oregon,  and  although  w^ith  final  success,  we  shall  see  that  the 
operation  of  subduing  the  Indians  was  needlessly  long  and  tedious.  We  shall  also  see 
how  an  ill-organized,  unpaid,  ill-fed,  ill-clothed  and  insubordinate  volunteer  organiza- 
tion, brought  together  in  as  many  hours  as  it  required  weeks  to  marshal  a  regular 
force,  dispersed  the  savages  repeatedly,  fought  them  wherever  they  could  be  found,  and 


INDIAN  WAKS.  219 

in  the  most  cheerless  dnys  of  winter  resolutely  followed  their  inveterate  foe,  and  Avere 
"  in  at  the  death"  of  the  allied  tribes. 

The  formation  of  volunteer  comjjauies  and  the  enrollment  of  men,  began  imme- 
diately upon  the  receipt  of  the  news  of  the  outbreak.  The  chief  settlements — Jackson- 
ville, Applegate  creek.  Sterling,  Illinois  valley.  Deer  creek,  Butte  creek,  Galice  creek, 
Grave  creek,  Vannoy's  ferry,  and  Cow  creek — become  centers  of  enlistment,  and  to 
them  resorted  the  ftirmes,  miners,  and  traders  of  the  vicinity,  who  with  the  greatest 
unanimity  enrolled  themselves  as  volunteers  to  carry  on  the  war  which  all  now  saw  to 
be  unavoidable.  On  the  twelfth  of  October,  John  E.  Eoss,  Colonel  of  the  Ninth  j-egi- 
ment  of  Oregon  militia,  assumed  command  of  the  forces  already  raised,  by  virtue  of  his 
commission,  and  in  compliance  with  a  resolution  of  the  people  of  Jacksonville  and 
vicinity.  Eecognizing  the  need  of  mounted  troops  for  the  duty  of  protecting  the  settle- 
ments, he  made  proclamation  calling  into  service  men  provided  with  horses  and  arms, 
and  in  two  days  had  increased  his  command  to  nine  comj^anies,  aggregating  five  hun- 
dred men.  Several  of  these  companies  had  been  on  duty  from  the  day  succeeding  the 
massacre,  so  promiDtly  did  their  members  respond  to  the  call  of  duty.  The  regiment 
was  increased  by  the  first  of  November,  to  fifteen  companies,  containing  an  average  of 
fifty  men  each,  or  seven  hundred  and  fifty  in  all.  The  initiatory  steps  of  the  organiza- 
tion of  the  volunteer  forces  were  necessarily  precipitous,  and  in  some  cases  correspond- 
ingly irregular.  This  organization  was  based  upon  the  militia  law  of  the  territory,  as 
it  then  existed,  declaring  the  territory  a  military  district  for  brigade  purposes,  of  which 
by  authority  of  the  act  of  congress  organizing  the  territory,  the  governor  was  com- 
mander-in-chief. This  law  further  provided  for  the  appointment  by  the  governor,  of 
a  brigadier  general,  and  for  the  election  in  subordinate  districts,  of  colonels  and  other 
regimental  officers.  It  also  embraced  the  usual  departments  of  the  general  staff",  and 
provided  for  the  commission  of  their  chief,  and  subordinate  officers. 

It  is  justly  thought  remarkable  that  such  a  force  could  have  been  raised  in  a 
country  of  such  a  limited  population  as  Southern  Oregon  ;  and  this  fact  is  rendered  still 
more  remarkable  by  the  extreme  promptness  with  which  this  respectable  little  army  was 
gathered.  If  we  examine  the  muster-rolls  of  the  different  companies,  we  shall  be  struck 
by  the  youth  of  the  volunteers — the  average  age  being  not  beyond  twenty-four  years. 
From  all  directions  they  came,  these  young,  jirorapt  and  brave  men,  from  every  gulch, 
hillside  and  plain,  from  every  mining  claim,  trading  post  and  farm  of  this  extensive 
region,  and  from  the  sympathizing  towns  and  mining  camps  of  Northern  California, 
which  also  sent  their  contingents.  Thus  an  army  was  gathered,  able  in  all  respects  to 
perform  their  undertaking  of  restoring  peace,  and  suddenly  too.  These  troops,  as 
already  said,  were  mounted.  Their  animals  were  gathered  from  pack-trains,  farms  and 
towns,  and  were  in  many  cases  unused  to  the  saddle.  But  the  exegencies  of  war  did 
not  allow  the  rider  to  hesitate  between  a  horse  and  a  mule,  or  to  humor  the  whims  of 
the  stubborn  mustang  or  intractable  cayuse.  With  the  greatest  celerity  and  prompt- 
ness the  single  organizations  had  hurried  to  the  rescue  of  the  outlying  settlements  and 
in  many  cases  preserved  the  lives  of  settlers  menaced  by  Indians.  Captain  Rinearson, 
at  Cow  creek,  enrolled  thirty-five  men  on  the  day  following  the  massacre,  and  by  night- 
fall had  stationer!  his  men  so  as  to  effectually  guard  many  miles  of  the  road,  leaving 
men  at  the  Canvon,  at  Levens'  Station,  at  Turner's,  and  the  remainder   at  Harkness 


250  INDIAN  WARS. 

aud  Twogood's  Grave  Creek  House;  and  receiving  reinforcements,  sent  thirty  men  down 
Grave  creek  and  to  Galice  creek.  By  such  exertions  the  enemy  were  overawed,  and 
the  white  inhabitants,  seeing  an  armed  force  in  their  midst,  began  to  regain  calmness 
and  confidence. 

While  the  work  of  organizing  the  forces  was  going  on,  the  Indian  maraviders  had 
retired  to  the  neighborhood  of  Grave  creek,  Cow  creek  and  Galice  creek,  on  each  of 
which  and  particularly  the  two  latter,  were  important  settlements.  The  country 
threatened  and  partially  occupied  by  the  hostiles  was  the  northern  part  of  Josephine 
county — a  land  of  canyons,  narrow  valleys,  steep  mountain  sides  and  thick  woods. 
Into  this  almost  inaccessible  retreat  they  had  thrown  themselves,  and  from  there  they 
issued  forth  at  will  to  burn,  plunder  and  murder.  On  the  morning  of  the  seventeenth 
of  October  the  united  bands  of  Limpy,  George,  John  and  Tenas  Tyee  made  an  attack 
on  the  headquarters  of  the  volunteers  on  Galice  creek,  and  the  fight  ensued  which  has 
been  celebrated  since  as  the  "Siege  of  Galice  creek."  Captain  William  B.  Lewis,  in 
command  of  a  company  of  about  thirty-five  men,  was  stationed  at  the  creek,  where  his 
men  were  doing  picket  and  garrison  duty.  On  the  day  mentioned,  two  men  came  to 
headquarters  and  reported  finding  Indian  signs  near  by.  Directly  after  Sergeant 
Adams,  who  had  proceeded  out  to  reconnoitre,  was  fired  at  by  the  hostiles  who 
appeared  in  strong  force  on  the  hill  overlooking  the  houses  used  as  headquarters. 
Several  volunteers  who  were  standing  near  were  also  fired  upon,  and  Private  J.  W. 
Pickett  was  mortally  wounded  by  a  shot  through  the  body,  and  died  during  the  day. 
The  headquarters  consisted  of  two  board  houses,  situated  some  twenty  yards  apart,  and 
about  an  equal  distance  from  the  stream.  Some  four  or  five  men  took  a  position  in  a 
ditch  which  had  been  cut  for  defensive  purposes;  others  took  shelter  within  a  log- 
corral  adjoining  one  of  the  houses,  while  within  the  latter  the  remainder  Avere  installed. 
The  enemy  were  hidden  behind  natural  obstructions  in  all  directions  from  the  defenses, 
which  they  surrounded.  Very  soon  the  men  were  driven  from  the  ditch,  and  took 
refuge  in  the  houses.  While  retreating  toward  the  house,  Private  Israel  D.  Adams 
was  shot  and  fell,  mortally  injured,  near  the  house,  being  assisted  into  it  by  Private 
Allen  Evans,  who,  while  thus  engaged,  received  a  severe  wound  in  the  jaw.  The 
Indians  immediately  occupied  the  ditch  to  the  number  of  twenty  or  more,  and  kept  up 
a  fire  on  the  houses,  within  which  the  volunteers  were  erecting  defences  by  digging  uj) 
floors,  piling  up  blankets,  etc.  The  Indians  loudly  announced  their  intention  of  firing 
the  houses,  scalping  the  men,  and  capturing  the  provisions  and  ammunition,  and  this 
cheerful  talk  was  translated  by  the  squaw  of  Umpqua  Joe,  a  friendly  Indian  who  was 
taking  part  with  the  whites,  and  who,  with  the  squaw,  was  in  the  house.  Umpqua 
Joe  himself  had  the  misfortune  to  be  wounded ;  and  during  the  fight  a  bullet  pene- 
trated the  thin  walls  of  the  liou.se  and  struck  Private  Samuel  Sanders  in  the  head, 
killing  him  instantly.  Considerable  conversation  of  an  unfriendly  nature  passed 
between  the  different  sides,  and  a  steady  fire  was  kept  up  by  both.  Several  attempts 
were  made  by  the  enemy  to  set  fire  to  the  houses,  and  Chief  George  particularly  distin- 
guished himself  by  attempting  to  throw  burning  faggots  upon  the  I'oofs.  This  man, 
as  well  as  John,  Limj)y  and  others,  were  recognized  by  the  besieged  party.  The 
engagement  lasted  nearly  all  day,  the  Indians  at  nightfall  retiring  from  the  scene. 
When  they  had  disappeared,  the  volunteers  went  to  work  to  strengthen  their  defences 


INDIAN  WARS.  251 

by  exteiuliug  their  ditch,  at  which  they  occupied  themselves  nearly  all  night.  In  the 
morning  some  Indians  apjieared,  and  seeing  from  the  preparations  that  the  whites  were 
well  ready  to  receive  them,  fired  their  guns,  retreated,  and  were  not  again  seen  on 
Galice  creek.  The  different  accounts  of  this  fight  describe  it  as  having  been  a  closely 
contested  affair,  and  of  really  important  consequences.  Three  men  had  been  killed  or 
mortally  wounded.  Besides  these,  Benjamin  Tufts,  severely  wounded,  died  on  the 
twenty-eighth  of  November  following.  Captain  Lewis,  First  Lieutenant  W.  A.  Moore, 
and  Privates  Allen  Evans,  John  Erixson,  Louis  Dunois,  Milton  Blacklidge  and  Ump- 
qua  Joe  were  wounded.  How  great  the  Indian  loss  was  could  not  be  determined,  as 
they  carried  away  their  injured,  according  to  custom.  The  common  opinion  was  that 
it  was  about  ecpial  to  that  of  the  whites.  Thus  the  fight  was  comparatively  desperate 
and  bloody. 

A  few  days  subsequent  to  the  fight  at  Galice  creek,  and  while  the  whereabouts  of 
the  Indians  was  unknown,  an  opportune  circumstance  revealed  their  place  of  abode. 
Lieutenant  (since  General)  A.  V.  Kautz,  of  the  regular  army,  set  out  from  Port  Orford 
with  a  guard  of  ten  soldiers  to  explore  the  country  lying  between  that  place  and  Fort 
Lane,  thinking  to  find  a  route  for  a  practicable  trail  or  wagon  road  by  which  the 
inland  station  could  be  supplied  from  Port  Orford  instead  of  the  longer  and  very  diffi- 
cult Crescent  City  route.  The  country  proved  even  more  rough,  steejj  and  precipitous 
than  it  had  been  reported  to  be  ;  and  the  Lieutenant  was  many  days  upon  his  journey. 
Leaving  the  river  near  the  mouth  of  Grave  creek,  he  ascended  the  neighboring  hills 
and,  much  to  his  surprise,  came  upon  a  very  large  band  of  Indians.  As  they  proved 
hostile,  there  was  no  resource  but  to  run  for  it,  and  losing  one  man  by  the  savages' 
fire,  the  officer  made  his  escape  to  Fort  Lane,  fortunate  in  getting  away  so  easily. 

Having  now,  by  this  unlucky  experience  of  Lieutenant  Kautz,  been  made  aware 
of  the  Indians'  exact  whereabouts.  Colonel  Ross  and  Captain  Smith,  combining  forces 
as  well  as  the  mutual  jealousies  of  regulars  and  volunteers  would  permit,  began  to  plan 
an  active  campaign.  All  the  disposable  troops  at  Fort  Lane  consisted  of  eighty-five 
men  and  four  officers  :  Captain  A.  J.  Smith,  first  dragoons  ;  First  Lieutenant  H.  G. 
Gibson,  third  artillery  ;  Second  Lieutenant  A.  V.  Kautz,  fourth  infantry  ;  and  Second 
Lieutenant  B.  Alston,  first  dragoons.  These  set  out  on  the  twenty -seventh  of  October, 
and  on  arriving  at  the  Grave  creek  house  were  joined  by  Colonel  Ross'  command,  of 
about  two  hundred  and  ninety  men,  besides  a  portion  of  Major  Martin's  force  from 
Deer  creek.  From  this  point  the  combined  forces  moved  on  October  thirtieth,  to  the 
Indian  camp,  arriving  at  daybreak  at  a  j'oint  where  Captains  Harris  and  Bruci'  were 
deployed  to  the  left,  while  Captain  Smith,  with  the  regulars,  took  the  ridge  to  the 
right,  ^vith  the  expectation  of  arriving  in  the  rear  of  the  Indians'  position,  whereby 
they  might  be  surrounded  and  captured.  Captains  Williams  and  Rinearson  followed 
in  Captain  Smith's  tracks.  The  country  not  being  perfectly  known  by  the  whites,  sev- 
.  eral  mistakes  followed  in  con.sequence,  and  Harris  and  Bruce  came  directly  upon  the 
Indian  encami)ment,  and  were  in  full  view  of  the  savages  before  any  strategic  move- 
ment could  be  made,  and  no  opportunity  for  surprising  the  enemy  offered  itself  The 
time  was  sunrise,  and  Captain  Smith  had  gained  his  rear  position  and  had  built  fires 
for  his  men's  refreshment,  at  the  place  where  Lieutenant  Kautz  had  been  attacked. 
By  these  fires  the  Indians  were  warned  of  the  ])arty  in  their  rear,  and  |)repare(l  them- 


252  INDIAN  WARS. 

selves  accordingly.  The  regulars  descended  into  a  deep  gorge,  climbed  up  the  other  side 
and  directly  were  engaged  with  the  Indians,  who  advanced  to  meet  them.  The  savages 
"  paraded  in  true  military  style,"  but  directly  fell  back  to  a  ledge  of  rocks  or  to  the 
brushy  crest  of  a  hill.  From  the  crest  of  the  hill  for  a  mile  or  more  in  the  rear  of 
the  Indians,  was  a  dense  thicket ;  on  the  right  and  left  were  precipitous  descents  into  a 
gorge  filled  with  j^ines  and  undergrowth,  in  which  the  natives  concealed  themselves 
almost  jjerfectly  from  the  view  of  the  whites,  who  possessed  no  resources  sufficient  to 
dislodge  them.  The  ridge  being  bare  on  top,  the  men  were  necessarily  exposed  to  the 
enemy's  fire,  and  some  casualties  resulted.  Movements  were  made  to  get  in  the 
Indians'  rear  in  this  new  position,  but  such  attempts  were  futile.  Several  charges  were 
made  by  the  regulars  but  ineflPectually,  although  the  men  were  for  considerable  periods 
within  ten  or  twenty  yards  of  the  hostiles.  The  latter  fought  bravely  and  steadily, 
picking  off^the  whites  by  a  regular  fire  from  their  rifles,  which  were  pitied  against  the 
inferior  w^eapons  of  the  troops,  or  at  least  of  the  regulars,  two-thirds  of  whom  had 
only  the  "  musketoon,"  a  short,  smooth-bore  weapon,  discharging  inaccurately  a  heavy 
round  bullet,  whose  range  was  necessarily  slight.  About  sunset  the  commanders  con- 
cluded to  retire  from  the  field,  and  did  so,  first  posting  sentries  to  observe  the  savages' 
movements.  The  united  commands  encamped  for  the  niglit  at  Bloody  Spring,  as  it 
was  named,  some  distance  down  the  hill. 

On  the  following  morning  Lieutenant  Gibson,  of  the  regulars,  with  ten  men,  pro- 
ceeded up  the  hill  to  the  battle-field,  to  secure  the  dead  body  of  a  private  of  his  detach- 
ment, and  when  returning  with  it  was  pursued  by  the  savages,  who  came  down  and 
attacked  the  camp  in  force,  firing  numerous  shots.  No  damage  was  done  by  this 
attack  except  the  wounding  of  Lieutenant  Gibson,  and  after  a  time  the  savages  were 
driven  off.  No  further  attemj)t  against  the  Indians  was  made,  and  after  advising  with 
their  officers  the  two  commanders  decided  to  remove  their  troops  from  the  vicinity. 
Accordingly,  orders  were  given  and  the  retrograde  march  began. 

The  total  loss  was  thirty-one,  of  whom  nine  were  killed,  and  twenty-two  wounded. 
Several  of  the  latter  died  of  their  injuries.  The  volunteers  killed  were  Privates  Jacob 
W.  Miller,  James  Pearcy  and  Henry  Pearl,  of  Rinearson's  company;  John  Winters, 
of  Williams';  and  Jonathan  A.  Pedigo,  of  Harris'.  The  wounded  were  Privates 
William  H.  Crouch,  Enoch  Miller  and  Ephriam  Tager,  of  Rinearson's ;  Thomas 
Ryan  and  William  Stamms,  of  Williams' ;  L.  F.  Allen,  John  Goldsby,  Thomas  Gill, 
C."  B.  Hinton,  William  M.  Hand,  William  I.  Mayfield,  William  Puruell  and  William 
White,  of  Harris';  C.  C.  Goodwin,  of  Bruce's;  and  John  Kennedy,  of  Welton's.  The 
latter  died  on  the  seventh  of  November,  and  C.  B.  Hinton.  in  endeavoring  to  make  his 
way  alone  to  the  Grave  Creek  House,  lost  his  road  and  perished  from  exposure.  Tliis 
fight,  occurring  on  the  thirty-first  of  October  and  the  first  of  November,  is  known  by 
the  several  names  of  the  Battle  of  Bloody  Springs,  Battle  of  Hungry  Hill,  and  Battle 
in  the  Grave  Creek  Hills. 

From  these  details,  and  considering  that  the  Indians  maintained  their  position  on 
the  battle-field,  without  great  loss,  it  is  evident  that  the  campaign  was  an  unsuccessful 
one.  It  is  generally  admitted  by  the  whites  who  took  jjart  in  the  engagement,  that  the 
affiiir  resulted  in  a  23artial  defeat,  and  they  ascribe  therefor  several  reasons,  either  of 
which  seems  sufficient.     The  inclemency  of  the  weather  is  set  forth  as  a  reason,  and  is 


ft/'-"    ^ 


INDIAN  WARS.  253 

doubtless  an  important  one.  It  is  known  from  good  authority  that  one  man  perished 
from  eohl  and  wet,  and  that  the  bodies  of  those  slain  in  the  fight  were  frozen  stiff  in  a 
few  hours.  This  would  indicate  very  severe  cold,  but  from  independent  sources  we 
gather  that  the  w^eather  throughout  the  winter  was  exceptionally  severe.  Troops,  ill 
provided  with  blankets  and  clothing,  stationed  at  the  very  considerable  altitude  of 
the  Grave  creek  hills,  were  under  the  worst  possible  circumstances  for  continuing  the 
attack.  Besides,  a  still  more  serious  reason  presented  itself.  There  was  not  a  sufficient 
supply  of  food  to  maintain  a  single  company  of  men.  The  commissariat  w^as  in  chaotic 
condition,  alid  supplies  were  either  not  sent  out,  or  failed  to  reach  the  nearly  starving 
troojjs  in  time  to  be  of  use.  This  is  a  notorious  fact  in  Southern  Oregon,  but,  singu- 
larly enough,  fails  to  appear  in  the  earliest  published  accounts  of  the  affiiir.  The 
commissary  and  quartermaster  departments  were  at  fault,  nor  do  they  aj^pear  to  have 
been  efficiently  administered  at  any  time  during  the  war,  although  their  expenses  (duly 
charged  to  the  United  States)  were  preposterously  great.  Figures  are  at  hand  to  show 
that  the  expense  of  the  latter  department  exceeded,  for  a  time,  eight  hundred  dollars 
per  day!  And  this  for  transportation  alone.  A  large  number  of  Mexicans  were  borne 
on  the  rolls  as  packers,  whose  daily  pay  was  six  dollars,  and  who  had  the  care  and 
management  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  pack  animals,  which  were  used  in  carrying 
supplies  from  Jacksonville  or  Crescent  City  to  the  seat  of  war.  They  belonged  to  the 
volunteer  service,  and  were  entirely  distinct  from  the  trains  by  which  the  regulars  at 
Fort  Lane  were  supplied.  It  was  to  the  mismanagement  of  the  persons  in  charge  of 
the  trains  that  the  failure  of  the  camp)aign  was  attributed,  and  apparently  with  con- 
siderable justice.  The  charge  of  insubordination  made  against  the  volunteers  in  con- 
sequence of  their  conduct  at  Bloody  spring,  will  be  recalled  when  treating  of  the  later 
events  of  the  war. 

As  was  customary  with  the  regular  army  officials  at  that  date,  a  great  deal  of 
blame  was  cast  upon  the  volunteers  fdr  their  alleged  failure  to  properly  second  the 
efforts  of  the  government  troops.  This  charge  is  retorted  upon  Captain  Smith's 
soldiers  by  counter-charges  of  similar  tenor ;  and  as  neither  side  in  the  controvesy  is 
supported  by  any  but  interested  evidence,  we  cannot  at  this  date  satisfactorily  discuss 
the  question.  The  matter,  however,  is  connected  with  the  invariable  tendency  to 
antagonism  of  the  two  related,  yet  oj)posed,  branches  of  service,  which  antagonism 
shows  itself  on  every  similar  occasion,  and  is  an  annoying  subject  indeed.  We  see  the 
spectacle  of  two  diffisrent  organizations,  bent  upon  the  same  object  and  pursuing  an 
identical  road  to  the  attainment  of  their  object,  but  falling  into  bitterness  by  the  way- 
side and  continually  reviling  each  other,  and  failing  to  lend  their  moral  suiqiort  and 
frecjuently  their  physical  aid. 

The  governor  of  Oregon,  George  L.  Curry,  entered  considerably  into  tlie  buisiness 
of  making  proclamations  during  the  events  of  the  Rogue  river  war,  and  his  first  effort 
in  that  line,  bearing  upon  the  prosecution  of  hostilities  in  this  region,  was  as  follows  : 

Whereas,  By  petition  numerously  signed  by  citizens  of  Umpqua  valley,  calling  uj^ou  me  for 
protection,  it  has  come  to  my  knowledge  that  the  Shasta  and  Rogue  River  Indians,  in  Southern 
Oregon,  in  violation  of  their  soleiim  engagements,  are  now  in  arms  against  the  peace  of  this  terri- 
tory ;  that  they  have,  without  respect  to  age  or  sex,  murdered  a  large  number  of  our  people, 
burned  their  dwellings,  and  destroyed  their  property  ;  and  that  they  are  now  menacing  the  south- 
ern settlements  with  all  the  atrocities  of  savage  warfare,  I  issue  this  my  proclamation,  calling  for 


254  INDIAN  WARS. 

five  comjDauies  of  mounted  voluuteera,  to  constitute  a  uorthern  battalion,  and  four  companies  of 
mounted  volunteers  to  constitute  a  southern  battalion,  to  remain  in  force  until  duly  discharged- 
The  several  comi^anies  to  consist  of  one  captain,  one  first  lieutenant,  one  second  lieutenant,  four 
sergeants,  four  corporals,  and  sixty  privates,  each  volunteer  to  furnish  his  own  horse,  arms  and 
equipments,  each  company  to  select  its  own  officers,  and  thereafter  to  proceed  with  the  utmost 
possible  dispatch  to  the  rendezvous  hereafter  appointed.  It  is  expected  that  Jackson  county  will 
furnish  the  number  of  men  wanted  for  the  southern  battalion,  which  will  rendezvous  at  Jackson- 
ville, elect  a  major  to  command,  and  report  in  writing  to  headquarters.  It  will  then  proceed  to 
take  effective  measures  to  recover  indemnity  for  the  past,  and  conquer  a  lasting  peace  with  the 
enemy  for  the  future.  The  following-named  counties  are  expected  to  make  vij)  the  number  of  men 
wanted  for  the  northern  battalion  :  Lane  county,  two  companies;  Linn  county,  one  company; 
Douglas  county,  one  company  ;  Umpqua  county,  one  company;  which  will  rendezvous  at  Rose- 
burg,  Douglas  county,  elect  a  major  to  command,  and  report  in  writing  to  headquarters.  It  will 
then  proceed  immediately  to  open  and  maintain  communication  with  the  settlements  in  the  Rogue 
river  valley,  and  thereafter  co-operate  with  the  southern  battalion  in  a  vigorous  prosecution  of  the 
camp)aign. 

Given  under  my  hand  at  Portland,  the  fifteenth  of  October,  A.  D.,  1855. 

By  the  Governor,  George   L.    Cuery. 

Johu  K.  Laiiierick,  received  the  appointmeut  of  acting  adjutant-general  for  the 
vokmteers  on  Rogue  river,  and  was  entrusted  with  the  duty  of  mustering  in  and 
organizing  the  forces.  He  arrived  at  the  seat  of  war  several  days  after  the  fight  at 
Hungry  Hill,  and  immediately  proceeded  with  his  duties.  Some  twelve  or  thirteen 
companies,  of  from  twenty  to  eighty  men  each,  jiresented  themselves  and  requested  to 
be  mustered  in.  Lamerick  demurred  to  this,  however,  as  under  his  instructions  the 
services  of  only  four  companies  could  be  accepted.  He  agreed  in  short,  to  muster  the 
remaining  companies  into  a  separate  battalion,  who  could  then  elect  their  own  major. 
This  proposition  was  not  acceptable  to  many,  who  wished  all  to  be  in  the  same  battalion. 
On  the  tenth  of  November  the  volunteers  being  encamped  at  Vannoy's  ferry,  the  com- 
panies of  Bruce,  Williams,  Wilkinson  and  Alcorn  were  mustered  in,  and  organized  into 
a  battalion  known  as  the  southern  battalion,  of  which  Captain  James  Bruce  was  elected 
Major,  over  Captain  R.  L.  Williams  his  only  competitor.  The  remaining  troops  were 
disbanded  by  order  of  Colonel  Ross. 

At  the  rendezvous  for  the  northern  battalion  enlistments  began  early,  and  about 
the  twentieth  of  October  William  J.  Martin  was  elected  Major.  Quartermaster-General 
McCarver  occupied  an  office  in  the  court  house  at  Roseburg,  engaged  in  fitting  out 
the  troops.  The  strength  of  the  companies,  set  originally  at  sixty-three  rank  and  file, 
was  increased  by  Major  Martin  to  one  hundred  and  ten.  The  Douglas  county  company 
called  for  by  the  governor,  was  easily  recruited  and  held  its  election  October  27,  when 
Samuel  Gordon  was  elected  captain.  The  Linn  county  company  was  commanded  by 
Captain  Jonathan  Keeney;  the  two  from  Lane  county  by  Captains  Buoy  and  Bailey; 
respectively.  On  the  last  of  November,  Major  Martin  moved  his  headquarters  fi-om 
Roseburg  to  a  point  forty-eight  miles  south  of  Roseburg,  and  seven  miles  north  of 
Grave  creek,  calling  his  new  location  Camp  Leland.  Here  for  a  few  days  the  com- 
panies of  Buoy  and  Keeney  lay,  while  Bailey  moved  to  Camas  valley,  and  Gordon, 
dividing  his  company,  posted  a  part  in  Cow  creek  valley  and  the  Canyon,  and  the 
remainder  on  the  North  Umpqua,  where  a  few  stray  Indians  had  made  hostile  manifes- 
tations. Some  fifty  men  of  the  Umpqua  company  were  sent  to  Scottsburg,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  where,  as  before  remarked,  some  anxiety  was   felt  regarding  an 


INDIAN  WARS.  255 

attack  by  the  savages.  Major  Martin's  written  instructions  to  C^aptain  Bailey  at 
Camas  prairie,  given  under  date  of  November  10,  conclude  thus :  "  In  chastising  the 
enemy  you  will  use  your  owu  discretion  provided  you  take  no  prisoners."  Captains 
Buoy  and  Keeney  received  similar  instructions,  the  original  order  being  now  on  file 
in  the  state  house  at  Salem. 

The  southern  battalion  had  posted  at  the  same  time,  detachments  at  Evans'  ferry 
and  at  Bowden's,  and  troops  were  sent  to  assist  Messrs.  Harkness  &  Twogood,  who  were 
holding  their  tavern  on  Grave  creek,  and  declared  their  jjurpose  to  retain  it  at  all 
hazards.  They  had  erected  a  complete  stockade  of  timbers  and  prepared  for  a  siege> 
as  after  the  fight  at  Hungry  hill  it  was  sujd posed  that  Indian  attacks  would  become 
frequent.  The  disposition  of  the  military  along  the  line  of  communication  between 
the  Rogue  river  and  Umpqua  valleys,  however,  effectually  prevented  the  enemy  from 
reaching  the  more  important  settlements,  and  the  savages  finding  all  avenues  to  the 
eastward  closed,  broke  camp  at  Bloody  spring  and  went  down  the  Rogue  river,  taking 
refuge  in  the  almost  inaccessible  country  bordering  that  stream.  The  mountains 
thereabouts  presented  almost  insuijerable  obstacles  to  the  transiJortation  of  troops  and 
sujiplies  by  reason  of  their  steepness,  the  number  of  deep  gorges  which  intersect  them 
and  the  dense  foi-ests  by  which  their  sides  are  clothed.  Underbrush  of  the  densest 
kind  abounds ;  no  roads  nor  even  trails  existed  then,  and  scarcely  do  now  exist ;  am- 
bushes might  have  been  easily  formed  ;  and  in  a  word,  the  Indians'  hiding  place  was 
perfectly  adapted  to  their  security.  Having  so  favorable  a  country  to  operate  in,  and 
being  themselves  unequaled  as  "  mountain  soldiers"  and  bush-fighters,  through  long 
experience  in  the  woods,  and  in  actual  war  they  were  well  situated  to  resist  attacks,  as 
we  shall  see. 

The  two  battalions  composing  the  "  army"  as  newly  organized,  were  expected  to 
co-operate,  although  their  commanding  officers  were  mutually  independent.  After  the 
mustering  in  at  Camp  Vannoy,  the  two  Majors,  having  discovered  through  their  scouts 
where  the  Indians  had  gone,  determined  on  a  plan  of  united  action,  in  which  thev  were 
promised  the  supjiort  of  all  the  disjiosable  regulars  at  Fort  Lane.  The  United  States 
forces  in  November  were  seriously  curtailed  by  the  withdrawal  of  Major  Fitzgerald 
with  his  company  of  dragoons,  ninety  in  number,  who,  under  orders  from  Gen.  John  E. 
Wool,  commanding  the  Pacific  department,  proceeded  to  Vancouver.  Captain  Judah 
still  remained  at  the  fort,  and  this  oflicer,  who  acted  under  Captain  Smith's  orders, 
joined  the  expedition  down  the  Rogue  river — an  expedition  which  we  will  designate  as 
the  First  Meadows  Cami)aigu. 


CHAPTER   XXX. 


THE   FIRST    MEADOWS    CAMPAIGN. 

Expedition  Down  Rog-ue  River— Nothing  Accomplished— Various  Diffitulties  in  Djuglas  County— Siege  of 
the  Cabins  on  Applegate  Creek— The  Enemy  Escape— Killing  of  Hull  and  Angell— Conclusion  of  the 
Applegate  Affair— The  Army  Re-Organized— Its  Strength  -Jocular— The  War  Necessary— Appointment  of 
a   Brigadier  General. 

Oil  November  twentieth  Majors  Martin  and  Bruce  and  Captain  Judali  left  Evans' 
creek,  taking  all  the  regular  and  volunteer  troops  which  could  be  s^iared,  and  a  suffi- 
cient supply  of  provisions  for  a  short  campaign.  A  day  or  two  days  later,  dates 
differing,  they  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  Whiskey  creek,  and  found  traces  of  Indians. 
Proceeding  down  the  river  the  next  morning,  keeping  along  the  high  lands  back  a 
mile  or  two  from  the  stream,  they  found  the  Indians  in  strong  force  in  the  woods 
bordering  the  river.  The  country,  as  before  mentioned,  is  exceedingly  rough,  covered 
with  tangled  underbrush,  broken  up  into  deep  canyons,  precipitous  descents,  and  im- 
jjenetrable  gorges.  It  was  deemed  proper  to  cross  to  the  south  side  of  the  river,  and 
for  this  purpose  Major  Bruce  proceeded  with  his  battalion  down  to  the  river,  being 
then  near  the  mouth  of  Jackass  creek,  and  attempted  to  cross.  The  battalion 
were  scattered  upon  the  bar  which  borders  the  river  on  the  north  bank,  and  some 
engaged  themselves  in  endeavoring  to  construct  rafts  to  ferry  the  command  across, 
while  others  prospected  for  gold  in  the  gravelly  bar.  Indians  within  the  dense 
cover  of  the  trees  along  the  south  bank  began  firing,  and  the  whites  hurriedly  left 
the  bar  and  sought  shelter  in  the  brush.      Captain   Alcorn    shouted  "  Form  a  line 

here  ;  where  the  are  you  running  ?"     But  his  Lieutenant  replied,  "  Form ■ 

and  !     Break  for  the  brush,  every  one  of  you,  or  you'll  get  shot!"     And  the 

privates  thought  the  latter  advice  best,  and  hid  themselvas  with  desperate  haste. 
This  closed  the  campaign  as  far  as  the  battalion  of  Major  Bruce  was  concerned,  for 
thus  defeated  in  their  attempt  to  cross  the  river  they  retired  to  communicate  with 
Martin  and  Judah.  The  latter  officer  signalized  himself  on  many  occasions  through- 
out his  residence  on  the  Pacific  coast  by  his  devotion  to  artillery  jjractice.  A  heavy 
twelve-pound  howitzer  was  the  inseparable  companion  of  all  his  expeditions  to  fight 
the  Indians.  On  this  occasion  he  had  brought  this  piece  with  infinite  difficulty  and 
labor,  to  the  Meadows  ;  and  at  the  time  of  Bruce's  discomfiture  he  with  Martin  lay 
upon  the  hill  above  him  and  several  miles  away,  firing  from  that  lofty  position  his 
clumsy  piece  of  ordnance  at  the  enemy,  with  the  effect  only  to  set  the  wild  echoes  flying 
through  the  hitherto  silent  solitude.  After  a  deal  of  unprofitable  practice  the  trio  of 
commanders  resolved  upon  a  retrograde  march  ;  and  loading  Captain  Judah's  toy  upon 
a  stalwart  mule,  the  army  slowly  retired  to  Vannoy's  and  Camp  Leland.  One  volun- 
teer, William  Lewis,  of  Kenny's  company,  was  killed,  and  five  were  wounded.     At 


1^^'-  M. 


;t 


\1 


<=^-,  /■** 


s'i"^    I 


H      ,^ 


1^ 


^.    * 


POLLY  A, 

N?  2-1.770  AJ.CC. 


KHEDIVE.  JUANITA. 

STELLA  WHITING.  NAOMI'S  PRIDE  MURI  ELof  CLERMOl^ 

N°  ll"*40    A  JCC  N?I67'1.S  AJ.CC  N  ?   I5^ST   A.J.CX. 

FINE  STOCK   RANCH    OF  W^J'^ 


-RABIAN  BOY, 


RAWIAPOS  DUKE 

'  9615    A.J.  C 


MOLLIE 

^YE  lit 7ASHLAND,  JACKSON    CO. 
CON. 


GAMBETTA. 

MINNIE  KINGCOLE. 


INDIAN  WARS.  257 

least  one  Indian  bit  the  dust,  for  George  Cherry  killed  a  brave  and  carried  the  scalp 
tied  to  his  war-horse's  bridle. 

The  various  detachments  arrived  at  the  Grave  creek  camp  (jn  November  twenty- 
first,  and  the  companies  were  separated,  being  sent  to  guard  the  more  exposed  j^laces 
and  endeavor  to  keep  the  savages  from  making  forays  upon  the  inhabited  country  lying 
to  the  westward  of  their  position.  The  weather  came  on  exceedingly  cold  and  nearly 
put  a  stop  to  all  military  operations  for  a  time.  The  various  companies  went  into 
winter  quarters,  but  a  few  events  took  place  in  December  to  prove  to  the  citizens  that 
a  state  of  war  existed.  The  first  of  these  was  the  descent  of  some  twenty  or  thirty 
Indians  upon  the  Rice  settlement  at  the  mouth  of  Looking-glass  creek,  eight  miles 
south  of  Roseburg.  The  hostiles  burned  the  Rice  house,  and  captured  some  fire-arms 
and  did  other  damage.  A  small  company  of  men,  commanded  by  J.  P.  Day,  went 
from  Deer  creek  to  the  scene  and  engaged  and  defeated  the  Indians,  killing  three,  it 
was  said.  The  stolen  guns,  horses,  etc.,  were  re-captured.  Castleman,  a  member  of 
the  com]:)any,  was  slightly  wounded.  The  affray  occurred  on  the  second  of  December- 
The  Indians  were  probably  Cow  Creeks,  a  band  of  disaffected  natives,  who  were  actu- 
ated by  hostility  to  the  whites,  but  did  not,  it  appears,  feel  sufficiently  warlike  to  join 
Limpy  and  George  on  the  banks  of  Rqgue  river. 

Some  few  of  the  peaceable,  yet  wretched  and  debased  family  of  the  Umpcpias, 
resided  in  and  around  the  pleasant  vale  of  Looking-glass,  and  these,  true  to  their 
harmless  instincts,  refrained  from  war  throughout  the  troublous  times  of  the  conflict 
in  the  south,  and  sought  by  every  humble  act  to  express  their  dependence  on  and  lik- 
ing for  the  whites.  When  war  broke  out  on  Rogue  river,  these  inoffensive  people  were 
gathered  in  Looking-glass  valley,  occupying  a  rancheria  on  the  creek  of  that  name, 
where  they  lived  at  peace  with  all  the  world,  and  ignorant  and  careless  of  everything 
outside  of  their  own  little  sphere.  Mr.  Arrington  was  nominally  their  agent  and  pro- 
tector. In  an  evil  hour — for  them — certain  white  people  of  that  vicinity,  who  imag- 
ined that  they  were  dangerous  neighbors,  organized  themselves  into  a  comjjany,  and 
fell  suddenly  upon  the  helpless  little  community,  and  scattered  them  to  the  four  winds 
of  heaven.  Several  men  were  killed  ;  and  one  old  squaw,  in  whom  old  age  and  rheu- 
matic bones  defeated  nature's  first  law  of  self-preservation,  died,  a  victim,  unmeant 
perhaps,  but  still  a  victim,  and  slain  by  white  men's  bullets.  The  date  of  this  trans- 
action is  at  hand ;  and  proof  of  all  its  particulars ;  but  like  other  wrongs  and  much 
violence  done  that  race,  it  best  were  l)uried,  and  only  resurrected  to  serve  the  truth 
where  truth  needs  telling. 

On  Cow  creek  quite  a  series  of  disturbances  occurred  during  the  wintei'  of  18.3o-0. 
The  first  of  these  in  brief  was  the  attack  on  some  hog-drovers  from  Lane  county,  who 
were  traversing  the  road.  H.  Bailey  was  killed  instantly,  and  Z.  Bailey  and  three 
others  wounded.  The  Indians  burned  on  that  day  (October  24,  ISoo)  the  houses  and 
barns  of  Turner,  Bray,  Fortune,  Redfield  and  one  other.  Mr.  Redfield  placed  his 
family  in  a  wagon  and  started  for  a  place  of  safety,  but  soon  the  horses  were  shot,  and 
he  took  his  wife  upon  his  back  and  carried  her  to  a  fortified  place.  Mrs.  Redfield  was^ 
wounded,  however,  before  reaching  there. 

The  raid  of  certain  Indians  through  Camas,  Ten-mile  and  Looking-glass  valleys 


258  INDIAN  WARS. 

is  detailed  in  another  part  of  this  volume.  This  affair  occurred  in  the  later  months 
of  the  war. 

Late  in  March  Major  Latshaw,  of  the  second  regiment,  set  out  on  an  expedition 
against  the  Cow  Creek  Indians,  taking  with  him  a  portion  of  the  companies  of  Kobert- 
sou,  Wallan,  Sheffield  and  Barnes.  On  the  twenty-fourth  of  the  month  some  Indians 
were  found  at  the  big  bend  of  Cow  creek,  and  were  attacked  and  routed.  Several  of 
them  were  killed  or  wounded,  and  one  white  man.  Private  William  Daley,  of  Sheffield's 
company,  was  killed,  and  Captain  Barnes  and  Privates  Andrew  Jones,  A.  H.  Wood- 
ruff and  J.  Taylor  were  wounded.  The  Indians  dissappeared  from  the  vicinity  after 
this  defeat,  and  did  not  return  for  a  considerable  time.  These  incidents  comprise  the 
principal  hostile  acts  which  took  place  in  Douglas  county. 

The  people  on  Butte  creek,  in  Jackson  county,  had,  with  the  first  alarm  of  war, 
sought  safety  in  a  camp  of  log  houses  on  Felix  O'Neal's  donation  claim.  Several 
families — in  fact,  nearly  the  whole  poj^ulation  of  the  country  adjoining — made  their 
residences  there  for  a  time,  and  carried  out  measures  of  defense.  Alcorn's  company 
was  recruited  among  the  hardy  settlers  thereabouts,  and  subsequent  to  their  return 
from  the  first  meadows  cam23aign,  were  jDOsted  in  part  at  this  fortified  camp,  and  served 
to  restore  public  confidence.  Jake,  a  well-known  chief  of  a  small  band  of  Indians, 
with  his  braves  had  long  inhabited  that  portion  of  the  country,  and  had  refused  to  go 
on  the  reservation.  The  Indian  agent,  owing  to  the  smallness  of  their  numbers,  had 
never  thought  it  necessary  to  compel  them  to  go  there,  and  so  they  were  suffered  to 
remain,  a  nuisance,  if  not  a  positive  danger  to  the  whites.  They  were  said  to  steal, 
and  were  not  supposed  to  be  above  the  crime  of  burning  buildings.  They  dwelt  in  a 
rancheria,  between  the  Butte  creeks.  On  the  night  of  December  twenty-fourth,  Caji- 
tain  Alcorn,  with  a  part  of  his  men,  marched  to  the  rancheria  and  camped  within  a 
mile  of  it,  in  the  cold  and  snow.  At  daybreak  the  next  morning  the  troops  moved 
within  rifle  range,  and  began  to  fire.  This  they  kept  u])  until  the  natives  were  killed 
or  dispersed,  their  loss  being  eight  "bucks"  killed,  and  the  remainder  wounded.  One 
squaw  was  wounded  in  the  jaw,  and  two  men  were  captured.  Only  four  guns  were 
taken,  but  no  ammunition,  and  three  stolen  horses  wei'e  recaptured.  Old  Jake,  the 
chief,  was  not  in  the  fight,  and  was  reported  killed  by  the  Shastas. 

A  similar  affair  occurred  at  the  same  date  between  a  detachment  of  Captain 
Rice's  company,  numbering  thirty-four  men,  and  the  Indians  of  a  rancheria  four 
miles  from  and  on  the  north  side  of  Rogue  river,  and  just  below  the  mouth  of  Big 
Butte  creek.  A  night  march  and  an  attack  at  daybreak  formed  the  salient  features 
of  this  affair  also,  which  was  likewise  completely  successful.  The  Indians  were  taken 
by  surprise,  and  after  several  hours'  fighting  eighteen  males  were  killed,  and  twenty 
squaws  and  children  captured  and  the  rancheria  burned.  The  Indians,  finding  them- 
selves surrounded,  fought  bravely  to  the  last.     But  one  female  was  injured  in  the  fight. 

On  the  same  day  on  which  the  detachments  of  Alcorn  and  Rice  started  out,  a  third 
one  consisting  of  twenty  men  of  Bushey's  company  set  out  on  a  scouting  tour  to  the 
neighborhood  of  Williams'  creek,  where  a  portion  of  old  John's  band  were  busying 
themselves  in  many  a  hostile  way,  much  raised  in  self-esteem  by  the  partial  successes 
of  their  bold  leader  since  the  war  began.  On  the  evening  of  the  same  day  an  Indian 
trail  was  found  by  a  spy  party,  which  was  followed  the  next  day  by  the  command,  but 


INDIAN  WARS.  259 

witJiout  finding  the  vanclieria.  During  the  evening  a  man  strayed  off  and  became  lost" 
The  next  day  was  S2)ent  in  searching  for  him  under  the  impression  that  he  had  fallen  a 
victim  to  Indian  barbarity.  However,  on  the  following  day  news  came  of  his  safe 
arrival  at  Tliompson's  ranch,  on  the  Applegate,  and  of  his  having  found  a  camp  of  ten 
or  twelve  Indians,  near  whom  he  camped  for  t)ie  night,  but  escaped  unobserved. 
Orders  were  immediately  given  for  following  that  trail,  and,  the  command  being  divided, 
the  Indian  camp  was  easily  found.  The  foremost  detachment,  seven  in  number,  opened 
fire  on  them  and  and  killed  three,  putting  the  rest  to  flight.     No  whites  were  injured. 

Toward  the  last  of  December  some  scouts  who  happened  to  be  near  the  forks  of 
the  Applegate  discovered  that  a  body  of  Indians  probably  twelve  or  so  in  number  had 
taken  possession  of  two  deserted  miners'  cabins  and  had  gone  into  winter  quarters  there, 
preparing  themselves  for  a  state  of  siege  by  excavating  the  floors  of  the  houses  and 
piling  the  dirt  against  the  walls  so  as  to  form  a  protection  against  rifle  bullets.  The 
scouts  withdrew  unseen,  and  going  to  Sterling  told  the  news.  A  body  of  sixty  or  more 
miners  and  others  went  immediately  to  watch  the  cabins  and  prevent  the  Indians  from 
escaping,  while  word  was  sent  to  various  military  companies  who  began  to  repair  to  the 
spot.  Captain  Bushey  arrived,  and  finding  the  position  too  strong  for  his  small  force 
to  take,  awaited  the  arrival  of  others.  Captain  Smith  sent  Lieutenants  Hagen  and 
Underwood  with  twenty-five  regulars  and  the  inevitable  howitzer,  with  the  design  of 
shelling  the  savages  out;  but  the  fortune  of  war  was  unpropitious.  The  mule  carrying 
the  ammunition  was  so  heedless  as  to  fall  into  a  deep  creek  and  be  killed,  while  the 
powder  was  ruined.  Moi'e  ammunition  was  sent  for,,  and  Lieutenant  Switzer  with 
sixteen  regulars  brought  it  on  a  mule.  This  animal  was  more  fortunate;  and  the  regular 
army  drew  up  in  front  of  the  cabins  and  at  a  safe  distance  fired  a  shell  which  passed 
into  or  through  a  cabin  and  killed,  as  the  records  say,  two  savages.  But  before  the 
howitzer's  arrival  the  Indians  had  signalized  themselves  by  a  strong  resistance.  They 
had  killed  a  man  by  a  rifle-shot,  at  a  distance  of  500  yards — a  display  of  marksmanship 
equal  to  the  best  known  among  the  whites.     Five  whites  had  been  wounded. 

After  the  shell  was  fired,  the  regulars  postponed  further  operations  until  the 
morrow,  as  night  was  near.  Wlien  they  arose  the  next  morning  their  birds  had  flown 
and  the  cages  were  empty.  Quite  a  force  of  volunteers  had  gathered  upon  the  scene. 
There  were  Captain  Rice  and  his  company,  from  the  uj^per  end  of  Bear  creek  valley; 
some  men  of  Alcorn's  company,  a  few  volunteers  from  Jacksonville,  and  a  delegation 
from  the  Applegate.  A  much  regretted  event  occurred  during  the  day  ;  this  was  the 
killing  of  Martin  Angell,  of  Jacksonville,  who  set  out  to  accompany  the  regulars  to 
Starr  gulch,  the  scene  of  the  siege.  When  two  and  a  half  miles  from  Jacksonville,  on 
the  Crescent  City  road,  Angell  and  Walker,  who  were  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  in  advance,  were  fired  on  by  Indians  concealed  in  the  brush  beside  the  road. 
Angell  was  killed  instantly,  four  Ijalls  })assing  througli  his  head  and  neck.  Walker 
was  not  hit,  but  escaped  deatli  narrowly.  When  the  troops  came  up  the  Indians  had 
stripped  the  dead  man  and  were  just  retreating  into  the  brush.  On  the  same  day  (Jan- 
uary 2,)  Charles  W.  Hull  was  killed  on  the  divide  l)etween  Jackson  and  Jackass  creeks, 
his  body  being  soon  found  by  scouts.  Deceased  was  hunting,  but  becoming  separated 
from  his  friends,  was  waylaid  and  murdered  by  Indians.  These  occurrences,  happen- 
ing SI)  near  to  the  pi-inci]iid  lowu  df  llic  whole    region,  made  a  very  deep  impression, 


260  INDIAN  WARS. 

and  there  were  those  who  apprehended  the  greatest  dangers  from  the  "  red  devils." 
But  happily  these  were  not  realized ;  and  the  clamors  of  war  died  from  the  listening 
ears  in  Jacksonville. 

The  history  of  the  Applegate  affair  includes  still  another  chapter.  After  it  was 
found  that  the  Indians  had  made  their  escape,  the  regulars  returned  to  the  quiet  and 
seclusion  of  Fort  Lane,  while  Major  Bruce,  who  had  arrived  upon  the  field,  set  out 
with  portions  of  Rice's,  Williamson's  and  Alcorn's  companies,  to  follow  up  the  wily 
strategists  who  had  so  valiantly  defended  their  positions,  and  so  unexpectedly  escaped. 
Following  the  trail  of  the  fleeing  Indians  to  the  west,  the  scouts  came  upon  a  single 
Indian,  who  ran  at  the  top  of  his  speed  directly  to  the  Indian  camp.  The  savages, 
warned  by  the  shouting  of  the  pursued,  j^repared  for  a  fight  and  for  quite  a  while 
resisted  that  part  of  Bruce's  command  which  came  into  action,  killing  one  man,  Wiley 
Cash,  of  Alcorn's  company,  and  seriously  wounding  Private  Richardson,  of  O'Xeal's 
company.  Some  ten  or  twelve  horses,  left  unguarded  by  the  whites,  were  taken  by 
the  Indians,  and  several  more  were  shot.  This  fight  occurred  on  the  twenty-first  of 
January,  the  locality  being  IMurphy's  creek,  tributary  to  the  Applegate.  Only  twenty- 
five  men  jjarticipated  at  first,  but  Lieutenant  Armstrong  came  up  with  a  small  rein- 
forcement, and  after  a  most  plucky  fight  succeeded  in  saving  the  lives  of  the  detach- 
ment. They  were  surrounded,  and  being  sejDarated  from  the  main  body  of  the  troops, 
could  not  possibly  have  escaped  but  for  the  providential  arrival.  The  total  number  of 
Indians  engaged  under  the  leadership  of  John  was  probably  about  fifty. 

The  organization  of  the  "southern  army,"  as  it  was  called,  it  will  be  recollected, 
was  begun  by  Colonel  Jonh  E.  Ross.  For  some  reason  hard  to  make  out,  but  certainly 
not  from  any  reasonable  cause,  the  .command  of  the  volunteers  on  Rogue  river  was, 
by  proclamation  of  the  governor,  dated  October  20,  1855,  placed  in  the  hands  of  two 
officers  each  with  the  rank  of  major,  and  possessing  distinct  commands.  This  notable 
piece  of  strategy  proved  not  to  succeed  well,  owing  to  causes  which  anyone  could  have 
foreseen,  and  after  its  ineffectiveness  became  apparent  to  the  governor  and  his  prime 
minister,  Adjutant-General  Barnum,  the  two  battalions  were  united  and  elevated  to 
the  dignity  of  a  regiment,  and  an  election  of  colonel,  lieutenant-colonel  and  majors 
was  ordered  for  December  seventh.  Robert  L.  Williams  was  chosen  colonel.  This 
officer  had  attained  a  deserved  reputation  as  an  "Indian  fighter,"  and  was  poj^ularly 
supposed  to  be  devoid  of  fear.  His  qualifications  for  the  office  consisted  in  a  highly 
developed  hatred  of  Indians,  a  thorough  knowledge  of  their  tactics,  and  the  liking  of 
his  fellow-soldiers,  who  had  elected  him  triumphantly  over  Bruce  and  Wilkinson,  both 
efficient  commanders.  W.  J.  Martin  became  lieutenant-colonel,  whose  command  was 
to  be  the  "right  column,"  which  was  a  newly  invented  name  for  the  northern  battal- 
ion. James  Bruce  remained  as  major,  commanding  the  "left  column"  (southern 
battalion),  and  Charles  S.  Drew  continued  in  his  place  as  adjutant.  Colonel  Williams' 
regiment  was  officially  styled  the  second  regiment  of  the  Orgeon  mounted  volunteers, 
and  consisted  at  the  time  of  the  colonel's  election,  of  the  companies  of  Captains  Bailey, 
Buoy,  Keeney,  Rice,  O'Neal,  Wilkinson,  Alcorn,  Gordon,  Chapman  and  Bledsoe,  the 
aggregate  on  paper  being  901  rank  and  file,  but  the  effective  force  was  much  less. 
This  imjiosing  force  lay  the  greater  part  of  the  W'inter  se23arately  stationed  at  various 
jioints  wherever   their  services  were    required  as  guards.      Occasionally    something 


INDIAN  WARS.  201 

occurred  to  break  the  stagnant  routine  of  camp  life,  but  not  often.  An  Indian  raid 
might  be  exjjected,  else  the  war  -would  have  lost  all  attraction.  The  main  body  of  the 
army,  lying  in  what  is  now  Josephine  county,  centered  at  Yaniioy's  as  their  head- 
quarters.    The  right  column  remained  about  the  southern  boundary  of  Douglas  county. 

Almost  the  only  interesting  bit  of  information  of  a  jocular  character  which  survives 
to  this  day  is  the  memorable  trip  of  Captain  Keeuey  from  his  post  to  the  verdure-clad 
plains  of  the  Willamette.  Captain  Keeney  was  dissatisfied  with  guard  duty.  He  hun- 
gered for  a  sight  of  the  hills  of  Lane  county.  He  applied  to  Colonel  Williams  for  a 
furlough,  but  his  commanding  officer  refused,  saying  no  furloughs  would  be  granted 
until  the  last  Indian  in  Southern  Oregon  was  killed.  The  Captain  persisted;  the 
Colonel  told  him  to  "  go  to  grass."  Captain  Keeney  returned  to  his  command  and 
indignantly  related  the  story  of  his  wrongs,  when  a  private  suggested,  "He  probably 
meant  the  Willamette;  that's  the  only  grass  we've  seen."  The  Captain,  elated,  said, 
"Boys,  shall  we  go  to  grass?"  The  answer  was  unanimously  affirmative.  They  broke 
camp,  a  hundred  strong,  arrived  in  Eoseburg  December  27,  and  were  in  sight  of  their 
own  homes  in  time  to  wish  their  friends  a  happy  new  year.  The  joke  was  a  good  one; 
but  Lieutenant-Colonel  William  J.  Martin  failed  to  see  it  as  such.  He  made  it  a  part 
of  his  official  business  to  prefer  charges  against  the  home-sick  farmers  who  found  the 
war  so  different  from  their  joyous  anticipations.  This  stern  martinet  accused  Captain 
Keeney  of  disobedience  to  orders,  abandoning  his  position  in  face  of  the  enemy,  "  uni- 
form ungentlemanly  conduct,"  and  other  like  charges  of  formidable  tenor.  The  gov- 
ernor suspended  him,  but  at  a  later  date,  as  we  perceive,  the  company  with  their  cap- 
tain were  restored  to  all  the  rights  and  privileges  pertaining  to  the  most  obedient, 
steady  and  reliable  of  soldiers. 

In  this  time  of  monotony  and  ennui  charges  and  counter-charges  (verbal)  were  fre- 
quent. In  February,  Major  Bruce  incensed  by  the  torpor  of  the  volunteers,  addressed 
a  communication  to  Governor  Curry,  preferring  charges  against  Colonel  Williams  for 
inactivity,  failure  to  make  public  certain  orders  addressed  by  the  Governor  to  the 
troops,  etc.  Captains  O'Neal,  Eice,  Alcorn,  and  Wilkinson,  also  appended  their  names 
to  these  charges,  whose  outcome  was  the  appointment  of  a  brigadier  general,  to  shoulder 
the  responsibility  which  Williams  was  unequal  to.  These  charges  were  based  on  the 
hitter's  supposed  partiality  tow^ard  a  certain  clique  of  speculators  who  were  thought  at 
the  time  and  since,  to  be  using  their  influence  to  prolong  the  war  in  order  to  further 
their  pecuniary  object.  The  whole  subject  of  the  war  is  entangkd  throughout  with 
political  and  financial  relations  that  are  exceedingly  difficult  to  unravel,  and  seem  to 
ill  repay  the  investigator,  but  nevertheless  are  so  intermingled  in  people's  minds  with 
the  cause  of  the  war  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  enter  upon  an  examination  without 
giving  offense  to  those  whose  opinions  are  already  formed.  These  chapters  are  wi-itten 
in  the  firm  belief  that  hostihties  with  the  aborigines  were  unavoidable,  Avhich  it  requires 
no  very  deep  reasoning  to  make  apparent.  Wherever  the  Caucasian  and  the  American 
Indian  have  come  in  contact,  war  and  bloodshed  have  resulted.  Even  in  the  remote 
Eastern  States,  where  tlie  Pilgrim  Fathers  made  head  against  opposing  man  and  nature, 
the  red  men  were  the  first  and  their  worst  enemies  ;  and  even  their  Puritanical  prin- 
ciples could  not  avoid  a  war  of  extermination.  Then  from  analogy  we  declare  that 
the   removal    of  the   Indians   from   Southern  Oregon   was  a  nccessitv.     We  admit   its 


262  INDIAN  WARS. 

iiiexpedieiicy,  while  on  sentimental  grounds  we  commiserate  the  unhapj^y  and  unfor- 
tunate humans  whom  ill-starred  fate  drove  from  a  land  which  was  theirs  by  the  right 
of  long  possession. 

Sometime  in  the  last  days  of  January  Colonel  Williams  removed  the  headquarters 
of  the  army  to  Charles  Drew's  farm,  known  as  Forest  Dale,  near  Jacksonville,  and 
began  the  construction  of  barracks,  stables  and  other  buildings  suitable  for  his  pur- 
poses. This  measure  proved  an  unfortunate  one  for  him,  as  it  created  quite  a  burst  of 
indignation,  being  thought  to  be  instigated  by  the  owner  of  the  land,  whose  interests 
would  be  enhanced  thereby.  Very  soon  after  J.  K.  Lamerick  was  appointed  brigadier- 
general,  and  displaced  Williams  in  the  chief  command,  the  latter  retaining  his  rank 
of  colonel  of  the  second  regiment,  subordinate  to  Lamerick.  The  new  selection  does 
not  seem  to  have  been  a  very  happy  one;  it  was  made  at  a  time  when  much  dissatis- 
faction existed  against  Lamerick,  instigated,  probably,  by  the  speculative  clique,  and 
to  add  to  his  embarrassments,  the  period  of  enlistment  of  many  men  had  come  to  an 
end,  and  these  were  receiving  their  discharges.  The  work  of  re-organizing  the  forces 
was  very  difficult.  Most  of  the  former  ca]) tains  and  subordinate  officers  were  preju- 
diced against  the  new  general,  and  many  of  these  declined  to  serve  under  him.  The 
inaction  of  the  troops  through  the  winter  had  given  ample  opportunity  for  political 
manipulators  and  others  to  bias  the  minds  of  the  troops  as  they  chose,  and  those  small 
politicians  looked  upon  the  war  as  affording  a  satisfactory  opportunity  to  urge  their 
claims  for  preferment. 

By  the  middle  of  February  two-thirds  of  the  men  had  received  their  discharges, 
and  the  diminution  of  the  necessary-  guards  made  it  unsafe,  we  are  told,  for  anybody 
to  travel  alone.  Indians  were  seen  repeatedly  at  j^oints  before  deemed  free  from  them, 
and  alarm  was  felt  lest  there  be  a  repetition  of  the  sad  tragedies  of  the  pi-eceding 
autumn.  In  this  state  of  affiiirs  General  Lamerick  removed  the  headquarters  of  the 
regiment  again  to  Vannoy's,  deeming  that  a  more  suitable  place  than  the  retired  glades 
of  Forest  Dale.  In  February  the  companies  of  Bailey,  Keeney,  Gordon  and  Lewis 
received  their  final  discharge,  and  those  of  O'Neal,  Sheffield,  Abel  George,  Bushey, 
M.  M.  Williams,  Wallan,  Robertson  and  Barnes  were  enlisted.  Of  these,  Abel 
George  and  M.  M.  Williams  had  commanded  companies  attached  to  the  ninth  regi- 
ment, in  the  preceding  fall ;  but  being  mustered  out,  along  with  numerous  others,  they 
had  entered  the  service  again  at  the  date  named.  It  was  thought  that  it  would  be 
difficult  to  induce  a  sufficient  number  of  men  to  enter  the  service,  but  these  anticipa- 
tions were  met  by  the  re-enlistment  of  nearly  every  man  of  the  discharged  companies, 
and  within  a  few  days  a  sufficient  force  had  been  raised  to  meet  all  wants. 

The  weather  continued  unpropitious  for  military  movements  throughout  the 
months  of  February  and  March,  and  whatever  strategical  operations  were  then  resolved 
upon  by  General  Lamerick  were  not  carried  out.  The  companies  remained  in  winter 
quarters,  guarding  suspected  localities  and  taking  care  of  themselves.  No  incidents  of 
much  importance  occurred  during  the  time,  the  Indians  remaining  mostly  at  their  old 
haunts  upon  the  lower  river,  until  a-weary  of  waiting  to  be  attacked.  They  made 
disconnected  attempts  at  robbery  on  sundry  occasions,  wherever  arms  or  ammunition 
were  to  be  obtained;  but  there  is  no  record  of  serious  loss  of  life  from  these  raids,  until 
the  famous  one  of  March  twenty-fifth,  when  Evans'  pack-train  was  robbed,  and  the 
battle  of  Eight-dollar  Mountain  was  fought. 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 

THE     SPRING     CAMPAIGN. 

Removal  of  the  Table  Rock  Band  Their  Peaceful  Character— A  Flag  of  Truce— The  Governor's  Proclamation — 
Matters  in  Illinois  Valley— A  Pack-train  Taken  by  Indians-Battle  of  Eight-dollar  Mountain— Election  of 
Officers  of  the  Second  Regiment— A  Grand  Campaign  Resolved  Upon— March  to  the  Meadows— Arrival  at 
the  Little  Meadows-  Reconnoissances  in  Force— The  Enemy  Found  on  Big  Bar— A  Plan  of  Attack— The 
Indians  Retire— The  Array  at  the  Bar— Fort  Lamerick  Built— The  Army  Goes  Home— Results. 

Subsequent  to  the  events  just  detailed,  a  transaction  of  considerable  importance 
took  place  at  the  reservation  across  the  river  from  Fort  Lane.  This  was  the  removal 
of  Chief  Sam's  band  to  the  coast  reservation  west  of  the  Willamette  valley.  It  was 
mentioned  in  treating  of  the  Indian  outbreak  of  the  ninth  of  October,  that  the  Table 
Rock  band  took  no  part  in  those  proceedings.  On  the  contrary,  the  members  of  that 
band  crossed  the  river  to  Fort  Lane,  and  besought  the  protection  of  Captain  Smith, 
assuring  him  of  their  peaceful  feelings  and  deprecating  the  ^^ossible  and  ever  probable 
violence  of  the  white  settlers,  which,  but  for  such  protection,  would  surely  have 
liefallen  them.  During  the  succeeding  months  they  remained  under  the  immediate 
care  of  Captain  Smith  and  Agent  Ambrose  (successor  of  Culver),  and  gave  not  the 
remotest  cause  for  suspicion  on  the  part  of  the  whites.  Chief  Joe,  celebrated  as  the 
foremost  member  of  the  Rogue  River  tribe,  was  dead.  For  a  long  time  he  had  Avielded 
with  his  brother  the  divided  authority  of  the  tribe.  He  had  been  eminent  in  council; 
he  was  not  a  despicable  enemy  in  battle.  He  died  at  his  lodge  at  the  lower  end  of 
l>ig  Bar  not  long  after  the  Lane  treaty  was  signed-  Notwithstanding  the  loss  of  their 
wisest  counsellor,  the  band  remained  true  to  the  agreements  made  in  1853,  and  with  a 
striking  devotion  to  their  word,  refrained  entirely  from  giving  aid  or  countenance  to 
the  hostiles,  in  spite  of  the  utmost  inducements  to  a  contrary  course.  The  whole 
annals  of  Indian  wars  have  nothing  more  admirable  than  the  truth  and  firmness  with 
which  these  sorely  troubled  yet  constant  barbarians  maintained  the  honor  of  their 
obligations.  Finally,  when  the  bureau  of  Indian  affairs  had  decided  to  remove  all  the 
natives  from  Southern  Oregon,  the  Table  Rock  band — being  with  the  Umpquas,  the 
only  Indians  accessible  to  authority — were  sent  to  the  jiermanent  reservation  about 
Vuquina  bay.  Such  was  the  state  of  public  sentiment  that  a  guard  of  one  hundred 
soldiers  was  deemed  necessary  in  order  to  protect  this  little  remnant  on  tKeir  progress 
northward.  And  this,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  by  their  friendship  for  the  whites, 
tliey  had  incurred  the  enmity  of  all  the  hostile  Indians  on  Rogue  river.  The  people 
of  the  Willamette  vallej'^,  jealous  of  the  removal  of  such  celebrated  warriors  into  their 
neighborhood,  and  scarce  understanding  the  situation  of  afiairs,  called  loudly  for  the 
citizens  to  raise  an  armed  force  to  resist  their  coming,  and  exterminate  them;  but  the 
excitement  soon  calmed,  and  the  Indians  found  a  final  home  by  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific. 


264  INDIAN  WARS. 

Equally  illustrative  of  the  tone  of  public  feeling,  was  a  circumstance  which  hap- 
pened about  the  middle  of  February,  a  little  time  subsequent  to  the  departure  of  the 
Table  Eock  band.  At  this  time  Chiefs  Limpj  and  George,  with  about  thirty  warriors 
well  armed,  and  mounted  on  horses,  some  of  which  carried  two  braves  and  others 
three,  came  up  from  the  Meadows  carrying  flags  of  truce,  and  camped  on  the  reserva- 
tion opposite  Fort  Lane.  They  sent  a  messenger  to  Captain  Smith  to  announce  their 
arrival  and  desire  for  a  talk.  Their  object  was  not  to  make  peace,  but  to  secure  the 
surrender  of  some  squaws  who  were  in  the  hands  of  the  agent.  The  news  of  their 
arrival  got  abroad  instantly,  and  the  various  volunteer  companies  assembled  at  Forest 
Dale  in  haste,  no  one  yet  understanding  the  circumstances,  but  all  inquiring  as  to  the 
purpose  of  the  invasion.  Messengers  went  to  the  fort  and  were  informed  that  the 
regulars  would  not  allow  the  Indians  to  be  molested  in  consequence  of  their  coming 
under  a  flag  of  truce,  as  these  same  Indians  had  respected  that  symbol  on  a  certain 
occasion.  The  law  of  nations  and  the  regular  army  prevailed  in  spite  of  threat,  and 
the  savages  returned  unmolested  to  their  lair.  The  Sentinel  published  a  fiery  editorial 
against  the  United  States  troops,  and  refused  to  be  pacified.  "We  are  informed  by 
Major  Bruce  that  Captain  Smith  said  that  if  anyone  fired  upon  the  Indians,  he  would 
return  the  fire.  We  would  ask  if  our  citizen  soldiery  are  to  be  intimidated  by  the 
threat  of  any  one  from  avenging  the  innocent  blood  that  these  savages  have  caused  to 
flow?"  This  sort  of  rhetoric  did  the  Indians  no  hurt;  but  it  proved  very  expensive  to 
those  who  furnished  army  supplies. 

Returning  to  our  main  subject,  we  find  that  the  Illinois  Indians,  previously  at  the 
Indian  encampment  at  the  Meadows  on  Rogue  river,  had  become  tired  of  the  monotony 
of  life  sufficiently  to  induce  them  to  make  trips  to  their  old  hunting  grounds  in  search 
of  plunder,  and  excitement.  On  the  twelfth  of  February  they  killed  John  Guess  in 
his  field  on  Deer  creek,  leaving  him  dead  in  the  furrow.  On  the  morning  of  March 
24,  news  came  to  Vannoy's  that  the  enemy  had  ambushed  and  killed  two  travelers, 
Wright,Vannoy's  partner,  and  Private  Olney,  of  O'Neal's  company,  who  were  encamj^ed 
at  the  foot  of  Eight-dollar  mountain,  and  that  the  attacking  party  had  at  a  later  hour 
met  another  party  consisting  of  five  men,  and  mortally  wounded  John  Davis.  Orders 
Avere  at  once  sent  by  Major  Bruce  to  the  various  companies  of  his  battalion  to  rej^air 
instantly  to  Fort  Yannoy.  Captain  Hugh  O'Neal,  who  with  his  company  was  nearest 
to  the  scene  of  action,  had  immediately  set  out  for  Hays'  ranch,  or  Fort  Hays,  as  it  was 
called.  Hoping  to  reach  there  before  the  Indians  could  do  so,  as  that  post  had  but  few 
defenders.  A  sharp  skirmish  ensued  when  within  a  few  hundred  yai'ds  of  the  post  and 
private  Caldwell  was  mortally  wounded,  and  some  jjack  mules  loaded  with  provisions 
etc.,  were  taken  by  the  Indians,  who  besieged  the  fort  after  the  volunteers  had  taken 
refuge  within  it.  The  enemy  abandoned  the  ground,  during  the  night,  and  returning 
along  the  road  southward,  met  and  attacked  Evans'  pack-train  which  was  coming  from 
Crescent  City.  They  killed  a  Mexican  2:)acker,  and  wounded  "Big  Dave."  Evans 
escaped  to  Reeves'  farm,  but  the  mules  and  packs  were  all  captured  by  the  marauders, 
who  gained  a  large  amount  of  ammunition  by  the  capture.  On  receiving  the  news  of 
this  late  attack,  Lieutenant-Colonel  W.  W.  Chapman  (recently  elected  to  that  office) 
ordered  Major  Bruce  to  attack  the  enemy  with  all  his  available  force.  There  were  per- 
haps ]  25  men  who  proceeded  under  the  Major's  orders  to  the  scene  of  Evans'  misfortune. 


.i 


INDIAN  WAES.  265 

The  foremost  of  these  engaged  the  enemy  while  yet  the  remainder  were  dismounting. 
All  horses  were  left  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  which  it  was  necessary  to  ascend  to  find  the 
enemy  ;  and  a  long  line  of  battle,  reaching  several  hundred  yards  along  the  side  of 
the  mountain,  was  formed  and  the  troops  advanced  up  the  rise.  Private  Collins  led 
the  way  up  but  was  shot  dead  when  near  the  top,  falling  in  the  road.  John  McCarty 
was  also  shot,  dying  soon  after,  and  Private  Phillips  was  mortally  wounded.  Abel 
George's  men  dismounted,  and  tying  their  horses  to  a  fence,  started  up  hill  on  the  side 
next  Deer  creek,  intending  to  outflank  the  Indians,  while  Captain  M.  M.  Williams 
engaged  them  in  front,  assisted  by  members  of  Alcorn,  Rice's  (Miller's)  and  other 
companies.  Major  Bruce  with  about  fifty  men  kept  along  the  road  to  the  place  where 
Collins  fell.  The  battle  was  now  a  lively  one ;  the  rattle  of  rifles  and  revolvers  was 
almost  continuous,  and  frequent  attempts  were  made  by  each  party  to  charge  the  other- 
All  sought  cover,  and  there  was  little  chance  for  life  for  the  man  who  neglected  thus  to 
protect  himself.  At  this  interesting  juncture  a  shout  was  raised  that  the  Indians  were 
making  off"  with  the  horses,  left  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  A  number  of  the  savages,  spy- 
ing the  condition  of  affairs  ran  hastily  to  the  spot  and  mounting  some  and  leading 
others,  escaped  with  some  fifteen  of  the  animals  belonging  to  Abel  George's  Yreka 
company. 

The  most  of  the  fighting  for  a  time  was  done  by  M.  M.  Williams  and  about  a  score 
of  his  bravest  men,  who  stood  their  ground  valiantly,  and  only  retreated  when  the 
Indians  had  nearly  or  quite  surrounded  them.  Alcorn's  men  and  others  fought  well, 
also,  but  the  general  applause  was  marred  by  the  conduct  of  a  great  many  who  either 
ran  away  during  the  fight,  or  else  could  not  be  brought  into  it  at  all.  Over  200  men 
were  within  sound  of  the  firing,  but  not  one  half  that  number  took  any  part  in  the  fight, 
and  probably  not  over  fifty  engaged  in  it  with  energy  and  resolution.  A  hundred  or 
more  of  the  readiest  fighters  ever  known  among  the  Indians  of  this  continent  held  with 
determination  the  hill  and  the  thick  woods  and  successfully  barred  the  way.  Against 
this  force  the  volunteers  effected  nothing.  Shortly  they  began  to  retire,  and  gaining 
the  base  of  the  hill,  they  mounted  and  returned  to  Fort  Hays,  hardly  yet  sensible  of  a 
defeat.  The  Indians  withdrew  in  their  characteristic  manner  and  hostilities  for  the 
time  were  over. 

Lieutenant-Colonel  Chapman  now  established  a  jjermanent  camp  at  Fort  Hays, 
making  it  the  headquarters  of  the  companies  of  Alcorn,  George,  O'Neal,  Wilkinson 
and  Williams,  and  of  himself.  Major  Bruce  and  Regimental  Surgeon  Douthitt. 

On  the  eighteenth  of  March,  1856,  an  election  was  held  in  the  various  camps  of  the 
second  regiment,  and  John  Kelsey  became  colonel  of  the  regiment  in  place  of  Williams, 
W.  W.  Chapman  succeeded  W.  J.  Martin  as  lieutenant  colonel,  and  James  Bruce  and 
W.  L.  Latshaw  were  elected  majors  of  the  two  battalions.  The  respective  positions  of 
the  battalions  remained  unchanged  or  nearly  so,  that  of  Bruce  being  stationed  in  the 
Illinois  and  Rogue  river  valleys,  while  that  of  Latshaw  occupied  various  posts  in  the 
southern  part  of  Douglas  county,  notably  Fort  Sheffield,  so-called,  on  Cow  creek,  a 
post  in  Camas  valley,  Fort  Leland,  on  Grave  or  Leland  creek,  Fort  Relief  and  other 
points  considered  to  be  of  strategical  importance.  The  total  force  of  the  second  regi- 
ment, as  appears  by  the  rolls,  was  807  non-commissioned  officers  and  men,  commanded 
by  fifty-one  commissioned  officers  inclusive  of  the  staff". 


266  INDIAN  WAES. 

With  a  portion  of  tiiis  force  General  Lamerick  set  out  in  April  for  an  active  cam- 
paign to  the  Big  Meadows,  on  Rogue  river,  then  recognized  as  the  rallying  point  and 
base  of  supj^lies  of  the  entire  horde  of  hostiles,  known  to  number  at  least  250  and 
popularly  supposed  to  be  twice  as  numerous.  Having  collected  all  his  available  force 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Applegate,  the  General  appointed  a  day  of  parade,  and  fixed  upon 
the  fourteenth  of  April  as  the  day  for  setting  out  upon  the  proposed  expedition.  On 
the  morning  of  that  day  the  army  set  out,  under  the  immediate  command  of  Lieuten- 
ant Colonel  Chajiman,  who  proceeded  in  advance  with  one  hundred  men,  guided  by 
the  scouts  of  Lewis  and  Bushey.  A  very  long  pack-train  came  next,  and  Major  Bruce 
brought  up  the  rear  with  the  remaining  volunteers.  A  herd  of  beef  cattle  was  driven 
along  as  a  part  of  the  commissariat,  to  be  drawn  upon  as  occasion  required,  and  ample 
provision  had  been  made  for  anticipated  emergencies,  even  to  supplying  a  couple  of 
canvas  boats,  portable  and  collapsable,  to  be  used  in  crossing  the  liver.  Shovels  for 
constructing  roads  were  supplied,  and  twenty-five  days'  rations  were  taken,  besides  100 
rounds  of  ammunition  for  each  soldier.  General  Lamerick  announced  his  intention 
to  remain  out  until  the  Indians  were  completely  conquered,  or  until  the  army  had  to 
return  for  provisions. 

The  southern  battalion  marched  down  the  south  side  of  Rogue  river,  and  in  two 
or  three  days  reached  Peavine  mountain,  some  twelve  miles  from  the  Little  Meadows 
of  Rogue  river,  the  objective  point  of  Colonel  Kelsey's  command.  This  latter 
division  fitted  out  at  Fort  Leland,  on  Grave  creek,  and  set  out  on  or  about  the  seven- 
teenth of  April  and  arrived  safely  at  their  destination  within  two  or  three  days,  having 
come  via  Whiskey  creek.  No  enemy  was  met  upon  the  route  but  shortly  after  halting 
at  the  end  of  their  march  the  pickets  were  fired  upon  by  concealed  Indians,  whom  a 
diligent  search  failed  to  discover.  The  country  over  which  each  detachment  passed 
was  thoroughly  "  scoured"  by  large  numbers  of  scouts,  and  Indian  "  sign"  in  abundance 
was  found,  but  the  wily  savages  retired  secretly  before  the  army,  and  made  no  stand. 
On  April  twenty-seventh,  three  men,  McDonald,  Harkness,  and  Waggoner,  express 
riders  between  Lamerick's  command  and  Fort  Leland,  were  attacked  by  Indians  at 
Whiskey  creek,  and  Harkness,  a  partner  of  James  Twogood,  in  the  Leland  Creek  House 
(otherwise  called  the  Grave  Creek  House),  was  killed.  His  body  was  found  horribly 
mutilated. 

Caj)tain  Barnes,  of  the  spy  company,  reconnoitered  during  the  halt  at  the  Little 
Meadows,  and  found  the  Indians  in  large  numbers,  scattered  in  the  rough,  mountainous 
and  brushy  country  between  the  camp  and  the  Big  Meadows,  which  lie  below  the 
Little  Meadows,  and  also  the  north  side  of  the  river.  Major  Bruce  being  communi- 
cated with,  his  battalion  was  ordered  up,  and  he  joined  forces  with  Colonel  Kelsey,  the 
total  force  gathered  there  being  535  ofiicers  and  men.  The  camjj  was  on  a  high  bench 
or  terrace,  two  miles  north  of  the  river  and  a  thousand  feet  above  it.  A  breastwork  of 
pine  trees  was  formed,  enclosing  a  space  sufficient  for  camping  jJurposes,  and  there 
being  an  abundance  of  grass  and  water  near,  the  locality  was  well  adapted  for  that 
purpose.  The  Indian  encampment  was  found  to  be  on  a  large  bar  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river  and  some  three  miles  below.  The  Big  Meadows  were  deserted  by  them,  and 
the  intervening  country  contained  none  except  those  doing  duty  as  scouts.  On  the 
twenty-third  Colonel  Kelsey  with  150  men  made  a  reconnoissance  towai'd  a  suspected 


I 


INDIAN  WARS.  2B7 

point,  but  without  results,  aud  on  the  same  day  Major  Bruce  at  the  head  of  a  like 
force,  started  to  descend  the  slope  toward  the  bar.  At  a  distance  of  a  mile  from  camp 
a  creek  was  arrived  at,  beyond  which  were  collected  a  considerable  number  of  Indians, 
but  these  being  beyond  rifle  range,  and  Major  Bruce's  instructions  not  allowing  him  to 
attack,  no  fighting  was  done,  and  the  detachment  having  plainly  seen  the  Indian 
village  on  the  bar,  returned  to  camp.  During  the  following  days  until  the  twenty- 
seventh,  considerable  reconnoitering  was  done,  aud  a  brush  with  the  enemy  took  place, 
without  result.  The  Indians  were  thought  to  number  several  hundred,  including 
women  and  children,  and  were  found  to  be  as  actively  employed  in  scouting  as  were 
the  whites  themselves. 

At  a  council  of  war  ordered  by  General  Lamerick  it  was  resolved  to  attack  the 
enemy  in  his  stronghold  on  the  bar;  and  to  do  this  effectually  and  at  the  same  time 
prevent  the  Indians  from  escaping  over  the  mountains  in  their  rear.  Major  Bruce  was 
ordered  to  cross  to  the  south  side  of  the  river  and  march  to  a  point  where  they  could 
be  intercepted  in  case  of  flight.  The  other  battalion  under  Colonel  Kelsey  in  person 
was  to  proceed  westward  from  the  encampment,  and  gaining  the  summits  opposite  the 
Indians'  position,  was  then  to  march  down  the  steep  declivity  directly  in  their  front 
and  attack  them  from  across  the  river.  The  southern  battalion  duly  arrived  at  the 
point  where  they  were  to  cross,  but  the  two  canvas  boats  being  launched,  the  men 
declined  to  enter  them,  alleging  that  the  Indians  might  easily  sink  them  by  rifle  shots, 
or  failing  in  that,  might  massacre  the  few  who  would  be  able  to  land.  Major  Bruce's 
authority  was  insufficient  to  compel  them  to  obedience,  and  the  plan  was  abandoned. 
It  does  not  appear  that  any  Indians  had  been  seen  by  the  battalion  on  their  march  to 
the  river,  nor  does  it  seem  likely  that  any  considerable  number  of  them,  if  any,  were 
in  the  neighborhood,  their  total  force  probably  having  been  at  that  hour  at  their 
rendezvous  on  the  bar,  three  miles  below.  This  is  a  fair  example  of  the  difficulties 
met  with  by  the  officers  at  that  time.  Such  a  state  of  insubordination  prevailed  that 
it  rendered  all  plans  nugatory.  Every  priv.ate  thought  himself  entitled  to  reason  upon 
his  superior  officer's  commands,  and  to  refuse  compliance  if  they  seemed  injudicious. 
Under  such  circumstances  it  is  no  wonder  that  such  a  large  force  accomplished  so 
little. 

Major  Bruce  being  compelled  to  remain  on  the  north  side  of  the  I'iver,  concluded  to 
move  down  stream  and  join  Colonel  Kelsey  at  the  bar.  Meanwhile,  this  commander  had 
reached  a  point  on  the  declivity  nearly  opposite  his  objective  point,  and  started  directly 
down  hill,  following  a  ridge  which  afforded  comparatively  little  obstruction  to  his 
advance.  In  this  he  was  much  favored  by  a  heavy  fog  which  rested  upon  the  hills, 
utterly  obscuring  his  every  movement  from  the  Indians.  Thus  he  was  enabled  to 
arrive  nearly  at  the  river  before  they  discovered  his  whereabouts.  The  detachment 
was  now  formed  in  order  of  battle,  and  all  rushed  down  and  took  position  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  facing  the  Indian  encampment  on  the  bar,  and  opened  a  continuous  fire 
up:)n  the  enemy.  Tiie  savages  were  thi-own  into  confusion  by  the  sudden  attack,  and 
did  not  return  the  fire  for  some  time.  The  women  and  children,  the  former  carrying 
heavy  packs,  soon  left  the  camp  and  passed  up  the  hill  toward  the  Illinois  river,  while 
the  greater  part  of  the  males  sought  shelter  in  tlie  edge  of  the  fir  woods  behind  their 
encauipmi'at,  and  watched  the  m'jvements  of  the  whites.     3Iajor  Bruce  arrived  with 


268  INDIAN  WAES. 

his  command,  and  taking  a  position  on  the  left  of  the  northern  battalion,  began  firing 
at  the  enemy,  who,  however,  were  in  positions  of  comparative  safety.  Desultory  and 
ineffectual  firing  was  kept  up  all  day,  but  no  means  of  crossing  the  river  being  at 
hand,  nothing  could  be  done  to  complete  the  victory.  It  is  supposed  that  quite  a 
number  of  Indians  were  killed,  while  the  only  loss  to  the  whites  was  the  severe 
wounding  of  Elias  Mercer,  of  Wilkinson's  company,  who,  on  being  removed  U\  Eose- 
burg,  died  upon  the  way.  John  Henry  Clifte  also  sustained  a  severe  wound,  but 
recovered. 

In  the  evening  the  whole  force  went  into  camp  at  the  Big  Meadows,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river  and  six  miles  below  the  former  camp.  On  the  following  morning 
Colonel  Kelsey  and  Major  Latshaw  with  150  men  went  to  a  point  on  the  river  two  miles 
below^  the  bar,  with  the  expectation  of  crossing  to  the  south  side  and  "  scouring  "  the 
country  thereabouts.  At  the  same  time  Lieutenant-Colonel  Chapman  with  100  men 
marched  to  the  battle-ground  of  the  previous  day  to  engage  the  enemy  if  they  were  still 
there,  with  the  object  of  diverting  their  attention  from  the  movement  below.  The 
former  command  found  Indians  scattered  along  the  shore,  who  showed  fight  and  "moved 
further  into  the  brush  and  set  up  a  considerable  hallowing,"  consequently  the  detach- 
ment did  not  cross.  The  casualties  of  the  day  were,  as  might  be  judged,  very  light.  A 
private  of  Sheffield's  company  was  wounded,  and  one  or  two  Indians  were  thought  to 
be  hit,  but  the  latter  is  very  doubtful.  About  twelve  o'clock  the  Indians  "withdrew 
beyond  range  of  our  guns,  and  deeming  it  impracticable  to  cross  the  river  at  this  point 
we  drew  off  the  command  and  returned  to  camj)."  Lieutenant-Colonel  Chapman  had 
found  no  Indians  at  the  bar,  so  he  returned,  probably  also  thinking  it  impracticable  to 
cross.  Major  Bruce  had  "  scoured  "  in  the  direction  of  John  Mule  creek  with  100  men 
and  he  also  returned  unharmed. 

On  the  twenty-ninth  Captain  Crouch,  with  his  company,  left  for  Roseburg,  via. 
Camas  valley,  to  escort  the  wounded  to  the  hospital.  The  remainder  of  the  regiment 
broke  camp  and  occupied  the  bar  where  Jhe  Indian  encampment  had  stood,  and  met 
with  no  resistance  in  so  doing.  The  scouts  reported  that  the  Indians  had  all  left  the 
vicinity  and  that  the  remains  of  seventy -five  camp-fires  existed  on  the  mountain  side 
above  the  bar,  making  the  spot  where  they  encamped  on  the  night  following  Colonel 
Kelsey's  attack.  On  the  thirteenth  the  command  remained  at  the  bar  on  account  of 
bad  weather,  and  Captain  Lewis'  spies  reported  that  the  Indians  had  gone  down  the 
river.  "The  provisions  now  being  nearly  exhausted,  and  the  weather  continuing  so 
unfavorable,  it  was  considered  impracticable  to  follow  the  enemy  over  the  rough  ground 
before  us,  which  was  covered  with  snow,  and  many  of  the  soldiers  were  already  nearly 
barefooted."  On  the  first  of  May,  the  troops  re-crossed  the  river,  Captains  George  and 
Bushey  proceeded  immediately  to  Grave  creek,  while  the  rest  camped  at  the  Big  Mead- 
ows, at  a  place  selected  as  the  site  of  a  permanent  fort.  Williams,  Wilkinson,  Keith, 
Blakely  and  Barnes'  companies  were  detailed  to  remain  there,  the  remaining  com- 
panies setting  out  for  home  the  next  day.  Captains  Sheffield  and  Noland  with  their 
men  went  to  Roseburg  via.  Camas  valley,  and  Robertson,  Wallan,  Miller  (Rice's), 
O'Neal,  Alcorn  and  Lewis'  companies  marched  to  Fort  Leland,  the  headquarters  of 
the  northern  battalion,  Avhich  they  reached  on  the  fourth  of  May. 


INDIAN  WAES.  209 

If  we  sum  up  the  fruits  of  this,  the  Second  Meadows  Campaign,  we  shall  find  that 
they  equal  those  of  the  first.  To  descend  to  details,  we  find  that  the  army  "  scoured  " 
a  large  tract  of  wild  country,  consumed  twenty-five  days'  rations  in  two  weeks,  drove 
the  Indians  from  their  place  on  the  har  to  another  place  in  some  unknown  region,  and 
returned  to  civilization.  It  is  useless  to  enter  into  any  long  exjilanations  of  why  such 
slight  results  were  attained.  It  must  have  been  partly  the  insubordination  of  the  troops, 
who  while  nominally  under  the  command  of  their  general,  colonel,  lieutenant-colonel, 
four  majors  and  unlimited  captains  and  lieutenants,  domineered  shamefully  over  these 
officers  and  acted  their  own  j^leasure  in  times  of  emergency.  It  is  difficult  to  under- 
stand why  these  individuals  retained  their  commands  under  such  discouraging  circum- 
stances, and  why  their  own  self-respect  did  not  impel  them  to  quit  their  charges  in  dis- 
gust. Some  curious  and  amusing  incidents,  whose  record  has  come  down  to  us,  will 
illustrate  the  spirit  of  insubordination  which  so  injured  the  army's  usefulness.  After 
General  Lamerick  had  planned  the  fight  at  the  Meadows  and  had  given  Major  Bruce 
the  order  to  cross  the. river,  one  of  the  latter's  men  said,  "Look  here.  Gen 'ral;  this  ain't 
gwine  ter  do.  Jest  as  sure  as  we  cross  thar,  some  of  us  will  git  hit.  Don't  yer  know 
we  got  one  man  killed  tryin'  ter  cross  thar  afore?"  Eather  more  encouraging  was  a 
reply  to  one  of  Major  Bruce's  commands  to  charge,  "Yes,  We  say  charge,  and  we'll 
chalk  you  out  a  damned  good  charge,  Major!"  There  is  no  question  of  the  individual 
bravery  of  those  men.  As  expressed  by  one  who  was  among  them — a  coward  had  no 
chance.  A  more  daring  set  could  not  have  existed  than  these  miners  and  settlers. 
Their  experience  had  made  them  the  most  self-reliant  men  that  the  world  contained. 
But  the  peculiar  circumstances  surrounding  them,  the  fact  of  their  ofiicers  being  raised 
from  the  ranks  and  being  consequently  regarded  as  no  better  than  anybodv  else, 
wonderfully  impaired  their  eflficiency  and  reliability. 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 


THE     WAR     IN     CURRY     COUNTY. 

Character  of  the  Indians— Tribal  Designation— Numbsr— Incidents— Coquille  Massacre  — Killing:  of  Buford,  Haw- 
kins and  O'Brien— The  Natives  Remain  Peaceable— Captain  Poland  and  His  Company— Character  of  Enos— 
Massacre  at  Gald  Baach— The  Survivors  Take  Refuge  in  a  Fort— Other  Casualties— Seeking  for  Help— The 
Crescent  City  Company— Views  of  General  Woal- A  Military  Campaig;n  Planned— Arrival  of  Regular  Troops 
Captain  Smith  Descends  the  River— Actions  With  the  Indians— Volunteer  Companies. 

Having  now  broug-lit  the  detail  of  events  down  to  the  end  of  the  second  meadows 
campaign,  it  will  be  necessary  to  retrograde  in  order  that  a  connected  account  of 
of  affairs  in  a  totally  distinct  region  may  be  given,  and  their  bearing  ujjon  the  main 
features  of  our  story  be  understood.  Tlie  coast  of  Curry  county  had  become  known  to 
Americans  through  the  energetic  explorations  of  Captain  Tichenor  and  others  in 
1850  and  1851.  The  gold-bearing  sand  along  the  beaches  was  examined  a  few  years 
later,  and  during  the  half-dozen  years  next  following  its  discovery  the  region  became 
a  mining  locality  of  considerable  importance.  Several  hundred  miners  had,  by  the 
fall  of  1855,  gathered  near  the  mouth  of  Rogue  river,  and  together  with  the  traders 
and  others  incidental  to  mining  communities,  made  up  a  considerable  2^oi3ulation. 
These  people  lived  mainly  at  the  mouth  of  Rogue  river,  and  held  communication  with 
the  outer  world  by  way  of  San  Francisco,  accessible  by  steam  and  sailing  vessels,  and 
with  Crescent  City  by  means  of  a  much  traveled  road  along  the  coast  southward.  The 
mouth  of  Rogue  river  is  sixty-one  miles  north  of  Crescent  City,  Pistol  river  is  twelve 
miles  south  of  Rogue  river,  and  Chetco,  nearly  upon  the  California  state  line,  is 
twenty-five  miles  south.  Some  thirty  miles  north  of  the  Rogue  river  is  Port  Orford, 
celebrated  as  the  place  where  the  first  landing  and  settlement  upon  this  portion  of 
the  coast  was  made,  and  where  the  first  people  to  land  sustained  a  memorable  siege 
by  Indians.  Port  Orford  was,  during  the  Indian  wars,  a  military  j^ost  of  the  United 
States  army.  No  communication,  or  scarcely  any,  was  carried  on  along  the  coast 
northward  from  Carry  county,  nor  was  it  considered  accessible  from  the  eastward. 
Rough  and  impassable  ranges  of  heavily  wooded  mountains  cover  almost  the  entire 
surface  of  the  country  and  approach  so  near  to  the  coast  as  to  almost  cut  off  travel  by 
the  sea  shore.  On  the  east  these  mountains  penetrate  to  the  Illinois,  the  Applegate 
and  Cow  creek.  Among  their  defiles  meander  streams  to  whose  beds  the  sunlight 
never  penetrates.  Steep  hillsides  and  bushy  canyons  block  the  path  of  the  adventur- 
ous explorer  who  would  fain  force  his  way  among  them,  and  roaring  streams,  swollen 
by  winter's  rains  to  an  impassable  height,  impede  the  progress  of  man  or  animal. 
Among  these  mountains  roamed  the  elk,  deer,  bear  and  smaller  game  in  profusion. 
In  the  open  glades  and  by  the  sides  of  the  cool  streams  grew  the  salmon  berry,  and 
many  edible  roots.  In  such  a  region  existence  was  an  easily  solved  problem,  and  a 
numerous  race  of  Indians  gave  proof  of  its  solution. 


INDIAN  WARS.  271 

Here  resided  the  To-to-tin,  a  numerous  peojile,  relatetl  to  the  Rogue  Rivers 
and  Klamaths.  Their  northern  limits  were  at  Coos  bay  ;  toward  the  south  tliey  reached 
Chetco.  They  were  divided  into  twelve  bands,  of  whom  eight  lived  along  the  coast, 
being  the  Yasomah,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Coquille  ;  the  Quah-to-mah,  on  Flores  creek  ; 
Sixes  (first  called  Shix)  river  and  Port  Orford ;  the  Co-sut-hen-tan,  near  the  Three 
Sisters  ;  the  Eu-qu-ach-ees,  along  the  coast  from  Port  Orford  to  Rogue  river ;  the  Tah- 
shutes,  southward  of  the  river  ;  next  the  Chet-less-un-tun,  or  Pistol  Rivers,  about  the 
mouth  of  that  stream  ;  the  Wish-te-not-ins  south  of  the  Pistol  Rivers,  and  north  of 
the  Chetcoes  (Che-at-tee),  who  were  the  southernmost  tribe.  On  Rogue  river  were 
the  To-to-tins,  who  gave  their  name  to  the  whole  tribe ;  the  Mack-a-no-tins  lived 
above,  and  the  Shista-koos-tees  still  higher  up  stream,  or  about  the  mouth[of  the 
Illinois.  At  the  forks  of  the  Coquille  dwelt  the  Cho-cre-ten-tan  band.  All  these 
divisions  were  small ;  the  Chetcoes,  the  most  numerous,  numbering  but  242  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1854,  while  the  total  number  of  Coast  Indians  was  1230,  of  whom  448  were 
men. 

On  the  resignation  of  Judge  Skinner  in  1853,  Samuel  H.  Culver  became  Indian 
agent  for  Southern  Oregon,  and  resided  for  a  part  of  the  time  at  Port  Orford.  The 
government  had  decided  upon  the  removal  of  the  To-to-tin  tribe  to  a  reservation,  but 
with  the  usual  delay  of  governmental  matters  this  was  not  carried  out  in  time  to  avoid 
the  great  catastrophe.  In  1854 Isaiah  L.  Parrish  became  agent  and  made  the  enumer- 
ation of  the  Coast  Indians,  whence  the  above  statistics  are  taken.  There  is  nothing 
distinctive  or  peculiar  about  the  intercourse  of  these  people  with  the  whites  who  came 
into  the  country  ;  they  received  the  usual  treatment  accorded  the  Indian  by  the  Cau- 
casian. With  rather  more  than  ordinary  patience  and  humility  they  endured  the 
encroachments  of  the  higher  civilization,  and  lived  on  calmly  in  their  smoky  hovels, 
spearing  the  salmon  and  gathering  mussels,  until  their  outbreak  in  1856.  From  a 
long  list  the  following  incidents  have  been  extracted,  to  show  whatever  they  may  of 
the  situation  of  affairs  along  the  coast  previous  to  that  date.  The  report  of  the  com- 
missioner of  Indian  affairs  for  1854,  states  that  on  or  about  the  fifteenth  of  February, 
1854,  one  Miller,  with  several  accomplices  from  Smith  river,  killed  fifteen  Chetcoes, 
residing  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name,  because  these  Indians  interfered  with 
the  profits  of  a  ferry  which  he  was  running.  They  transferred  white  passengers  in 
their  canoes,  thus  competing  in  a  manner  unacceptable  to  Miller.  By  another  source 
we  are  told  that  Miller  was  subsequently  indicted  for  the  killing  and  sentenced  to  two 
years  in  the  penitentiary.  But  this  assertion  is  too  wildly  imin-obable  for  belief.  It 
had  no  precedent,  and  has  no  subsequent  counterpart.  The  only  ease  in  our  knowl- 
edge that  liears  a  resemblance  was  that  of  a  white  man  named  Thomjjson,  who  was 
indicted  for  murdering  an  Indian  on  Galice  creek  some  time  in  1854.  The  defendant 
made  his  escape  before  his  case  came  to  ti'ial  and  left  the  country. 

On  a  previous  page  in  this  book  the  "  Coquille  massacre"  was  referred  to.  This 
was  the  work  of  forty  miners  and  others  living  near  the  mouth  of  the  Coquille,  who 
killed  sixteen  Indians  who  were  accused  of  having  become  "  insolent"  to  the  whites, 
and  specifically  of  having  said  "  God  damn  American"  in  the  presence  and  contrary 
to  the  dignity  of  a  white  citizen  of  this  great  republic — of  having  fired  a  shot  at  a 
crowd  of  whites — of  cutting  a  ferry-boat  rope — of  riding  a  white  man's  hoi-se  without 


272  INDIAN  WARS. 

permission — and  finally,  of  having  refused  to  explain  these  insolent  actions.  On  page 
272  and  following,  of  the  Indian  commissioner's  report  for  1854,  may  be  found 
descriptions  of  the  subsequent  proceedings  of  the  whites,  wherein  they  demolished  an 
Indian  village,  killed  sixteen  jDcrsons,  including  a  squaw  and  an  infant,  and  wounded 
several  more.  These  statements  having  been  given  by  Abbott,  leader  of  the  whites, 
no  room  is  left  for  cavil. 

Another  incident  of  imjjortance  has  a  termination  somewhat  different  from  the 
ordinary  tale,  but  is  itself  very  lamentable  in  its  results.  On  August  26,  1855,  James 
Buford,  a  miner  living  at  the  mouth  of  Kogue  river,  became  involved  in  a  quarrel 
with  an  Indian,  and  was  shot  by  the  latter,  the  bullet  taking  effect  in  Buford's  shoul- 
der. The  native  was  arrested  and  brought  before  a  justice  of  the  peace,  and  after  a 
partial  examination  it  Avas  resolved  to  remove  him  for  the  night  to  the  council  ground, 
and  afterwards  to  Port  Orford.  There  being  a  considerable  number  of  Indians  there- 
abouts, a  squad  of  United  States  troops  was  detailed  for  the  service  of  guarding  the 
prisoner,  who  was  taken  in  a  large  canoe  with  his  guard.  Shortly,  another  canoe  ran 
alongside  in  the  semi-darkness,  and  from  it  Buford  and  two  friends,  Hawkins  and 
O'Brien,  fired  and  killed  the  pris3-:er  and  an  Indian  who  was  paddling.  Instantly 
the  soldiers  returned  the  fire,  killing  two  and  mortally  wounding  the  other  assailant, 
who  retained  only  sufficient  strength  to  swim  ashore,  where  he  died  upon  the  bank. 
This  incident,  we  need  not  add,  created  a  great  deal  of  excitement,  and  resulted  in  a 
war  of  words  against  the  army  which  could  so  quickly  take  the  side  of  the  savages, 
and  leave  unavenged  the  wrongs  they  committed  upon  the  whites.  Nevertheless,  the 
army  was,  from  the  nature  of  things,  opposed  to  the  whites,  although  they  could  not  be 
said  to  favor  the  Indians.  Departmental  instructions  leave  the  officer  commanding  a 
military  post  no  option  regarding  the  treatment  of  either  savage  or  civilized  persons, 
but  require  him  to  interpose  to  restrain,  on  the  one  hand,  the  violence  of  the  nation's 
aboriginal  wards,  and  on  the  other  to  resist  the  action  of  the  whites  who  may  interfere 
unlawfully  with  them.  After  the  uprising  of  the  Interior  Indians  under  John,  Limpy 
and  other  chiefs,  the  Coast  Indians  were  solicited  to  join  in  the  warfare  against  the 
whites,  but  the  sentiment  of  the  larger  portion  was  for  peace,  and  the  overtures  of  those 
chiefs  were  rejected.  The  Buford  affair  may  be  allowed  to  have  contributed  somewhat 
to  produce  the  hostilities  which  followed  in  the  spring  of  1856,  but  still  greater  weight  is 
probably  to  be  attached  to  the  success  of  the  malcontents  on  tlie  river  above  in  resist- 
ing the  efforts  of  their  opponents  who  sought  to  conquer  them.  During  the  early  part 
of  the  winter  of  1855-6  symptoms  of  increasing  discontent  were  noticed  among  the 
natives,  and  the  condition  of  affairs  was  pronounced  grave  enough  to  warrant  immedi- 
ate measures  being  taken  to  preserve  peace.  An  Indian  agent  for  the  locality  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  was  considered  indispensible,  and  Ben  Wright,  the  celebrated 
Indian  fighter,  who  had  gained  a  vast  experience  in  the  management  of  the  savages, 
and  who  had  sustained  intimate  domestic  relations  with  various  tribes,  was,  at  the 
solicitation  of  certain  people  of  Yreka  and  elsewhere,  appointed  to  that  post  as  suc- 
cessor to  Mr.  Parrish,  by  Joel  Palmer,  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs  for  Oregon. 
Wright  began  his  ministrations  under  favorable  auspices  and  for  a  time  everything 
promised  security  for  the  whites,  whose  fears  were  not  of  the  most  serious  cast.  The 
military  arm  was  present  in  the  person  of  Brevet-Major  Reynolds,  U.  S.  A.,  who,  with 


.i^W;      -^i 


Rock  Cut.one  and  one  half  miles  north  of  TableRock 
O&C.R.R. 


INDIAN  WARS.  273 

his  company  of  the  third  artillery,  was  stationed  at  Port  Orford,  the  ])ost  bearing  the 
official  designation  of  Fort  Orford.  This  force,  though  too  small  to  be  of  much  service 
in  time  of  a  real  outbreak,  still  served  to  maintain  order  as  between  the  whites  and 
natives,  and  was  much  relied  upon  by  the  infant  colony  so  far  away  from  effective 
help,  and  so  completely  at  the  mercy  of  the  savages.  The  settlers,  of  course,  were 
atniost  entirely  men  in  the  prime  of  life;  very  few  women  and  children  had  yet  arrived 
in  the  country — a  jjeculiarly  fortunate  circumstance  as  we  shall  see.  Only  two  or 
three  white  families  were  to  be  found  at  the  settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
called  Gold  Beach,  but  many  miners  abode  in  small  cabins  scattered  along  the  banks 
of  that  stream  for  several  miles  upwards  from  the  mouth,  and  along  the  sea-coast  north 
and  south,  but  mainly  located  near  the  present  site  of  EUeusburg.  Three  miles  up 
the  river  was  Big  Flat,  where  a  considerable  settlement  had  been  formed,  and  some 
land  brought  under  cultivation. 

Something  had  been  done  in  the  way  of  protection  against  possible  outbreaks  by 
the  formation  of  a  small  company  of  volunteers  who  were  under  the  command  of  Cap- 
tain Poland.  This  company  numbered  thirty-three  men  and  had  been  called  out  by 
the  agent  and  stationed  at  the  Big  Bend,  some  fifteen  miles  up  the  river,  where  they 
served  to  separate  the  hostiles  above  from  the  ^^eaceful  Indians  below.  Here  they  had 
a  strongly  fortified  post  and  were  deemed  secure  from  defeat  or  capture.  These  ti-oops 
maintained  their  station  until  about  the  first  of  February,  1856,  when  they  abandoned 
it  and  joined  the  main  body  of  citizens  at  Gold  Beach.  Wright;  observing  the  growing 
discontent  of  the  natives  at  this  time,  put  forth  every  effort  to  induce  them  to  go  peace- 
ably on  to  the  temporary  reservation  at  Port  Orford,  where  they  would  be  safe  from  the 
attack  of  ill-disposed  whites  and  the  solicitations  of  hostile  Indians.  It  was  still  thought^ 
notwithstanding  hints  of  an  outbreak,  that  the  Indians  about  the  mouth  of  the  river 
would  be  induced  to  submit  to  the  authority  of  the  superintendent  and  would  eventu- 
ally, without  trouble  or  bloodshed,  be  removed  to  some  distant  reservation.  It  has 
always  been  sujiposed  that  it  was  owing  to  the  intriguing  of  one  man  that  this  effect 
was  not  brought  about.  This  man  was  an  Indian  of  some  eastern  tribe — Canadian,  it 
was  said — and  had  been  with  Fren\ont  on  his  last  expedition  ten  years  before.  He  pos- 
sessed great  experience  of  savage  warfare  and  savage  craft  and  duplicity,  of  which  latter 
qualities  he  was  certainly  a  master.  Enos,  called  by  the  Indians  Acnes,  had  become  a 
confident  of  Wright's  to  the  extent  of  knowing,  it  is  said,  all  his  plans  for  the  peaceful 
subjugation  of  the  Indians.  We  must  confess  Ben  Wright  changed  from  what  fact 
and  tradition  have  described  him,  if  instead  of  meditating  a  mighty  coup-de-maia  to 
destroy  them,  he  relied  upon  negotiations,  squaws'  enticements  and  the  persuasions  of 
an  Indian  renegrade  to  accomplish  what  his  arms  alone  had  been  want  to  do.  Enos, 
nominally  for  Wright,  constantly  entered  the  Indian  camps,  in  one  of  which  his  wife 
dwelt;  and  laid  with  the  braves  of  these  coast  tribes  a  far-reaching  plan  to  destroy 
utterly  and  beyond  regeneration  the  small  colony  of  whites;  and  this  done,  to  join  the 
bands  of  savages  who  were  waging  war  along  the  up2:»er  reaches  of  the  Rogue,  and  at 
one  fell  swooiJ  to  defeat  and  drive  from  the  country  the  invaders  who  so  harrowed  the 
Indian  soul.  Thus  large  they  say  his  plan  was ;  but  not  larger,  doubtless,  than  those 
of  other  savages,  but  moi'e  nearly  being  executed  than  most  otliers.  because  laid  by  a 
brain  that  could  contrive  and  a  disposition  that   made  bloody  deeds  and  violcuce  like 


274  INDIAN  WAES. 

balm  to  his  feelings.  Many  a  dangerous  and  rough  enemy  the  whites  had  in  Southei'u 
Oregon,  but  none  more  dangerous  nor  capable  than  this  i^lanning  and  contriving,  smil- 
ing and  hating  foreign  Indian,  whose  treachery  cost  the  sea-cost  colony  many  valuable 
lives  and  nearly  its  whole  material  wealth. 

The  first  step  in  Enos'  portentious  plan  was  to  slaughter  Wright  and  the  settlers 
along  the  coast.  On  the  evening  of  February  22,  having  completed  his  arrangements, 
Enos  with  a  sufficient  force  of  his  Indians  fell  upon  the  scattered  settlement  at  the  south 
side  of  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  finding  Agent  Wright  alone  in  his  cabin,  entered 
it  seen  but  unsuspected  by  him,  and  with  an  axe  or  club  slaughtered  this  hero  of  a 
hundred  bloody. fights.  So  died  perhaps  the  greatest  of  the  Indian  fighters  whom  this 
coast  ever  knew.  Concluding  this  villainy  the  Indians  sought  new  victims,  and  during 
the  night  killed  mercilessly,  with  shot  or  blows,  twenty-four  or  twenty-five  persons,  of 
whom  the  list  is  here  presented,  as  given  by  various  authorities:  Captain  Ben  Wright, 
Captain  John  Poland,  John  Geisel  and  three  children,  Joseph  Seroc  and  two  children, 
J.  H.  Braun,  E.  W.  Howe,  Barney  Castle,  George  McClusky,  Patrick  McCollough, 
Samuel  Heudrick,  W.  K.  Tullus,  Joseph  W^agoner,  Seaman,  Lorenzo  Warner,  George 
Reed,  John  Idles,  Martin  Reed,  Henry  Lawrence  Guy  C.  Holcomb  and  Joseph 
Wilkinson.  Three  prisoners  they  took — Mrs.  Geisel  and  her  remaining  children  Mary 
and  Annie,  the  three  of  whom,  after  suffering  the  worst  hardships  at  the  hands  of  the 
Indians,  were  delivered  from  them  at  a  later  date,  and  now  live  to  recount  witli  tears 
the  story  of  their  bereavement  and  captivity. 

A  large  portion  of  the  inhabitants  thereabouts  had  gathered  on  that  fateful  night 
at  the  Big  Flat  to  attend  a  dance  given  there,  and  so  failed  of  death  ;  and  on 
the  morrow  these  set  out  for  the  ransacked  village,  and  arriving  there  found  that 
the  Indians  had  gone,  leaving  the  fearful  remains  of  the  butchery.  The  corpses  were 
buried;  and  the  remaining  poj^ulation,  numbering  perhaps  130  men,  scantily  sujjplied 
with  fire-arms  and  jjrovisions,  hastened  to  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  and  sought 
protection  in  a  fort,  so-called,  which  quite  providentially  stood  there,  having  been  con- 
structed previously  by  some  whites  in  anticipation  of  such  need.  Here  the  survivors 
gathered  and  for  a  time  sustained  a  state  of  siege  with  the  added  horrors  of  an  immi- 
nent death  by  starvation.  Their  only  communication  from  without  was  by  means 
of  two  small  coasting  schooners  which  made  occasional  trips  to  Port  Orford  or 
Crescent  City.  At  the  former  place  lay  Major  Reynolds  with  a  force  scarcely  suffi- 
cient to  maintain  order ;  and  when  the  messengers  from  Gold  Beach  arrived  and 
told  their  direful  tale,  the  citizens  of  the  post  with  their  families  and  most  valuable 
goods  took  refuge  at  the  barracks,  whence  the  commander  refused  to  move.  He 
advised  an  entire  abandonment  of  the  settlement  at  Gold  Beach,  but  as  the  Indians 
surrounded  it  and  commanded  all  approaches  by  land,  it  was  obviously  impossible 
for  the  beleaguered  citizens  to  escape,  unless  by  sea,  and  that  recourse  was  also  cut 
off.  Meantime  the  now  aroused  savages  were  not  idle.  Every  dwelling  and  every 
piece  of  property  of  whatever  description  that  fire  could  touch  was  destroyed.  The 
country  was  devastated  utterly,  and  only  the  station  of  Port  Orford  remained  inhab- 
ited, if  we  except  the  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  buildings  at  Gold  Beach 
were  all  burned,  and  an  estimate  of  the  property  destroyed  along  the  coast  fixes  the 
damage  at  |125,000.     Subsequent  to  the  first  attack  a  number  of  other  persons  were 


INDIAN  WARS.  275 

killed  by  the  ludiaus,  these  being  Henry  BuUen,  L.  W.  Oliver,  Daniel  Richardson, 
Adolf  Schuioldt,  Oliver  Cautwell,  Stephen  Taylor,  and  George  Trickey.  By  an 
unhappy  chance  H.  I.  Gerow,  merchant ;  John  O'Brien,  miner  ;  Sylvester  Long, 
farmer;  AVilliam  Thompson  and  Richard  Gay,  boatmen,  and  Felix  McCue,  were 
drowned  in  the  breakers  opposite  the  fort,  while  bringing  aitl  and  provisions  fi'om 
Port  Orford. 

At  the  same  time  the  messenger  proceeded  to  Port  Orford  application  was  made 
to  Captain  Jones  of  the  regular  army,  who  was  stationed  at  Crescent  City,  and  this 
officer  offered  the  services  of  twenty-five  troops,  and  except  for  General  Wool's  com- 
mands, would  have  instantly  taken  the  field  with  that  small  force  and  marched  to  the 
assistance  of  the  besieged  citizens.  But  as  we  shall  see  a  concerted  movement  against 
the  Indians  was  about  to  be  made  wherein  the  scattered  companies  of  regulars  were 
each  to  bear  a  part.  The  citizens  of  Crescent  City  quickly  organized  a  company  of 
men,  of  whom  G.  H.  Abbott  was  chosen  cajitain  ;  T.  Crook,  first  lieutenant,  and  C. 
Tuttle,  second  lieutenant;  and  these  made  preparations  for  a  campaign  against  the 
Indians  and  were  of  much  use  in  the  hostilities  which  followed.  The  Crescent  City 
people  appealed  to  the  troops  in  arms  in  Jackson  county,  and  then  mostly  lying  inac- 
tive at  Vannoys',  Fort  Hays,  Forest  Dale,  and  other  places,  for  assistance  in  putting 
down  this  new  uprising  and  saving  the  lives  of  the  coast  people,  but  without  effect, 
since  the  officers  feared  the  consequences  that  might  follow  a  withdrawal  of  any  troops 
from  the  valley. 

The  operations  of  the  regular  army  which  resulted  in  freeing  Curry  county  from 
the  presence  of  hostile  Indians,  are  thus  alluded  to  by  Captain  Cram.  On  the  ninth 
of  November,  1855,  General  John  E.  Wool,  in  command  of  the  military  department 
of  the  Pacific,  while  on  his  way  to  the  Yakima  country  where  war  had  broken  out, 
arrived  at  Crescent  City,  and  there  learned  of  the  existence  of  hostilities  in  Southern 
Oregon,  of  the  formation  of  the  "southern  army"  of  volunteers,  and  of  the  fight  at 
Hungry  hill.  Deeming  the  volunteers,  with  the  assistance  of  the  few  regulars  at 
Forts  Lane  and  Jones,  sufficient  for  the  occasion,  and  there  being  no  regular  troops 
available  for  service  in  this  district,  General  Wool  gave  himself  no  further  concern 
about  the  matter,  being  averse  to  winter  campaigns.  General  Wool's  presence  in 
Southern  Oregon,  says  Caj^tain  Cram,  was  exceedingly  opportune.  He  was  enabled 
to  judge  of  the  measures  necessary  to  be  taken  by  his  own  command,  and  acting  upon 
the  basis  of  humanity  for  the  Indians  and  with  a  due  regard  for  the  safety  of  the  settle- 
ments, he  instructed  commanders  of  posts  to  receive  and  protect  such  friendly  Indians 
as  chose  to  come  in  and  remain  at  the  military  posts.  These  were  the  precautions 
taken  in  consequence  of  "a  due  regard  for  the  safety  of  the  settlements:"  Captain 
Jones,  who  was  posted  with  his  company  of  fifty  men  at  Fort  Humboldt,  received 
orders  some  time  during  the  war  to  proceed  to  Crescent  City  and  "jn-otect  all  supplies 
and  [)ublic  property,  also  to  guard  the  friendly  Indians  gathered  there  by  the  superin- 
tendent of  Indian  affairs  in  Oregon;"  and  Major  Reynolds  with  his  company  of  just 
twenty-six  artillerymen  was  ordered  to  remain  at  Fort  Orford,  ninety  miles  above 
Crescent  City  and  thirty  miles  from  Gold  Beach,  the  spot  where  the  Indians'  blows 
must  soonest  fall,  and  only  distant  some  forty  or  less  miles  from  the  common  rendez- 
vous of  iill  the  hostilcs.      It  would  require  no  generalship  to  ascertain  the  unprotected 


276  INDIAN  WAES. 

state  of  the  settlements  along  the  coast.  Absolutely  no  protection,  military  or  natni'al, 
existed  for  the  community  at  Gold  Beach,  excepting  that  these  peoi^le  had  raised,  as 
before  mentioned,  a  small  company,  part  of  whom  were  stationed  at  the  big  bend  of 
Rogue  river,  some  fifteen  miles  aboye  its  mouth  and  a  strategic  point,  where  they  acted 
as  a  guard  to  prevent  the  hostiles  commanded  by  John,  Limpy  and  other  chiefs  from 
communicating  with  or  annoying  the  Indians  of  Gold  Beach  district,  as  before  men- 
tioned. Had  those  indomitable  warriors  been  disposed  to  attack  the  coast  people,  there 
was  absolutely  no  power  at  hand  cajDable  of  making  a  successful  resistance.  The 
garrison  at  Big  Bend  would  have  been  crushed,  the  friendly  Indians  scattered,  and 
scenes  of  blood  enacted  similar  to  those  we  have  recounted.  Why  the  hostile  Indians 
made  no  such  attempt  is  a  subject  for  speculation;  certainly  the  regular  army  did 
nothing  to  prevent  it.  When  spring  came,  General  Wool,  "being  previously  well 
advised  as  to  the  topography  of  the  district  and  of  the  probable  positions  of  the 
Indians,"  and  having  been  informed  of  the  imminent  danger  of  the  coast  settlements, 
proceeded,  leisurely  enough,  to  "put  in  effect  a  plan  for  terminating  the  Rogue  river 
war  by  United  States  trooj)S."  Which  war  he  proposed  to  terminate  thus  is  not 
known ;  but  it  is  plain  that  two  separate  wars  had  gone  on  during  the  weeks  succeed- 
ing the  "Ben  Wright  Massacre" — the  one  being  by  the  Co-ast  Indians  against  the  coast 
colony,  the  other  by  John  and  Limj^y  and  their  bands  against  the  volunteers  of  the 
southern  army.  From  and  after  the  arrival  of  the  United  States  troops  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Rogue,  we  can  only  recognize  a  single  contest,  the  exigencies  of  war  having 
brought  about  an  alliance  of  the  savages,  and  the  mutual  though  reluctant  co-opera- 
tion of  the  regulars  and  volunteers. 

The  general's  plan  is  thus  outlined  in  reports  of  the  war  department :  A  detach- 
ment of  one  hundred  men  had  been  sent  from  Fort  Lane  to  guard  Sam's  band  to  the 
coast  reservation,  which  left  a  very  small  number  there  for  oifensive  operations.  Cap- 
tain Augur's  company  of  the  fourth  infantry  was  ordered  down  from  A^ancouver  to 
Fort  Orford  to  reinforce  Major  Reynolds,  which  "would  afford  troops  enough  to  pro- 
tect the  friendly  Indians  and  public  stores  collected  there,  and  leave  another  small 
force  disposable  for  the  field."  Captain  Ord's  company  of  the  third  artillery,  stationed 
at  Benicia,  California,  was  ordered  to  be  in  readiness  to  embark  on  the  steamer  for 
Oregon.  Brevet  Lieutenant-Colonel  Buchanan,  major  in  the  fourth  infantry,  was 
selected  to  take  charge  of  the  field  operations.  On  March  fifth  the  general  embarked 
at  San  Francisco  with  Ord's  com^jany,  Lieutenant-Colonel  Buchanan,  Captain  Cram, 
Lieutenants  Bonnycastle  and  Arnold,  and  Assistant-Surgeon  Milhau,  for  the  seat  of 
Avar.  On  the  eighth  of  March  Lieutenant-Colonel  Buchanan  lauded  at  Crescent  City 
with  Ord's  company,  and  united  with  Jones'  regulars  and  Abbott's  volunteers  in  a 
vigorous  prosecution  of  the  war.  General  Wool's  plan  consisted  of  the  conjoined 
action  of  the  troops  from  Crescent  City  with  those  from  Port  Orford  and  those  of  Cap- 
tain Smith,  to  whom  orders  had  been  sent  to  descend  the  Rogue  river  in  time  to 
co-operate  in  the  work.  Captain  Abbott,  setting  out  from  Crescent  City  before  the 
regulars  were  ready,  encountered  the  Pistol  River  and  Chetco  bands  and  fought  them 
for  a  day,  losing  several  men  who  were  wounded  and  Private  Miller  killed,  and  ulti- 
mately being  surrounded  and  forced  to  take  refuge  behind  logs  upon  the  beach.  A 
night  was  sjDent  thus  when  the  regulars,  112  in  number,  under  Captains  Jones  and 


Tunnel  No.8, Length, Z,8P2  FEET. 
0&  C.R.R. 


II 


INDIAN  WARS.  277 

Ord  (E.  O.  C.  Ord,  late  a  major-general  in  the  United  States  service,  deceased  in 
1883),  who  charged  and  drove  the  savages  away.  Tarrying  in  the  vicinity  a  few  days 
for  the  pnrpose  of  inflicting  a  severe  lesson  on  these  hostiles,  their  carai)  was  taken  by 
the  volunteers  and  the  fleeing  inmates  were  met  and  severely  chastised  by  the  regulars. 

On  the  twentieth  of  March  Lieutenant-Colonel  Buchanan,  with  the  regnhars  from 
Crescent  Gty,  ai-rived  at  the  mouth  of  Eogue  river,  having  left  Captain  Abbott  at 
Pistol  river  to  keep  open  communications  with  Crescent  City,  the  base  of  supplies- 
Operations  on  the  lower  Rogue  began  by  an  assault  upon  the  Makanootenai  rancheria, 
about  ten  miles  up-stream  and  four  or  six  below  Big  Bend.  Captains  Ord  and  Jones 
took  the  town,  killing  several  Indians  and  driving  the  rest  to  their  canoes.  One  man, 
Sergeant  Nash,  was  severely  wounded.  A  few  days  later  a  detachment  of  Captain 
Augur's  company  reached  the  mouth  of  Illinois  river  and  found  some  ten  or  twelve 
Indians  belonging  to  John  or  Limpy's  band,  and  fought  them.  The  Indians  strove  des- 
l)erately  and  five  of  them  fell  dead  before  the  conflict  was  decided.  Captain  Augur  had 
thus  far  failed  to  effect  a  junction  with  his  superior  officer  and  after  the  fight  found  it 
necessary  to  return  toward  Gold  Beach.  The  Indians  of  the  up-river  band  followed 
him  closely,  entering  his  camp  as  soon  as  he  had  abandoned  it  and  whooping,  l)urning 
loose  powder  and  dancing  to  testify  their  joy  'at  his  presumed  defeat. 

Captain  Smith  set  out  from  Fort  Lane  Avitli  eighty  men — fifty  dragoons  compris- 
ing his  own  company,  and  thirty  infantrymen.  All  of  these  went  on  foot,  and  the 
former  carried  their  musketoons,  "an  ill-featured  fire-arm  that  was  alike  aggressive  at 
both  ends  "  and  which  contributed  to  the  inefficiency  of  that  branch  of  the  service  as 
much  as  any  cause.  However,  it  is  a  matter  of  fact  that  the  United  States  government 
is  always  at  least  a  score  of  years  behind  the  age  in  the  armament  of  its  troops,  so  the 
reader  should  not  be  surprised  to  learn  the  peculiarities  of  the  musketoon,  the  princi- 
pal weapon  of  mounted  troops  in  that  decade.  Cajitain  Smith  marched  down  Rogue 
river,  up  Slate  creek  to  Hays' farm,  from  thence  to  Deer  creek  and  theuce  down  Illinois 
river  to  the  Rogue,  and  encamped  a  few  miles  further  down  that  stream,  having  come 
to  his  destination. 

Negotiations  had  been  in  progress  for  a  few  days,  thanks  to  the  exertions  of  Palmer, 
superintendent  of  Indian  affiiirs,  and  it  was  hoped  that  an  agreement  would  be  reached, 
at  least  with  the  Coast  Indians  who  were  now  much  scattered.  Enos,  with  quite  a 
number  of  his  followers,  had  joined  the  up-river  bands  who  were  lying  on  the  river 
above  the  Big  Bend.  Some  others  had  gone  to  Fort  Orford  and  placed  themselves 
under  the  protection  of  the  military  there,  and  no  malcontents  were  left  upon  the  coast 
save  a  few  Pistol  river  and  Chetco  Indians  who  had  not  yet  been  sufficiently  pacificated. 
Several  actions  had  taken  place  at  various  points  along  the  coast,  the  results  of  which 
were  calculated  to  humble  the  Indians.  On  the  twenty-seventh  of  March  a  party  of 
regulars  were  fired  upon  from  the  brush  while  jiroceeding  down  the  banks  of  the  Rogue, 
whereujion  they  charged  the  enemy  and  killed  eight  or  ten  savages,  with  a  loss  to 
themselves  of  two  wounded.  On  April  1,  Captain  Creighton  with  a  company  of  citi- 
zens attacked  an  Indian  village  near  the  mouth  of  the  Coquille  river,  killing  nine  men, 
wounding  eleven  and  taking  forty  squaws  and  children  prisoners.  These  Indians  liad 
been  under  the  care  of  the  government  authorities  at  PurtOrford  until  a  few  days  before 
tlie  fight  and  (.nly  left  that  place  because  some  meddlesome  whites  had  represented  to 


278  INDIAN  AVARS. 

them  tliat  it  was  the  soldiers'  intention  to  kill  them.  Consequently  they  left,  and 
Creighton  with  his  men  pursued  and  attacked  them.  Again,  a  party  of  volunteers 
intercepted  several  canoe  loads  of  Indians  near  the  mouth  of  the  Rogue  river  and  killed 
eleven  males  and  one  squaw;  one  male  and  two  squawks  only  escaped.  On  the  twenty- 
ninth  of  April  a  party  of  sixty  regulars,  convoying  a  pack-train,  were  attacked  near 
Chetco  by  the  remnant  of  the  band  of  savages  of  that  name,  supposed  to  number  about 
sixty,  but  probably  less,  and  two  or  three  soldiers  were  killed  or  wounded.  The  battle 
ended  by  the  defeat  of  the  natives,  who  lost  six  braves  killed,  and  several  wounded.  In 
the  month  of  April  three  volunteer  companies  operated  on  the  coast,  and  did  much 
service  in  spite  of  their  being  badly  armed  and  equipped.  These  were  the  Gold  Beach 
Guards,  the  Coquille  Guards  and  the  Port  Orford  Minute  Men. 


CHAPTER   XXXIII. 


THE  WAR  ENDED. 


Usefulness  of  the  Volunteers— Council  at  Oak  Fiat— Chief  John  Refuses  to  Treat —Military  Operations— Bat- 
tle of  Big-  Meadows— Indian  Tactics— Arrival  of  Au^ur- Movements  of  the  Volunteers— Proclamation 
of    Disbandraent— The    Indians  Surrender— At   the  Reservation— The   End— Financial    History   of  the  War. 

The  Indian  occupancy  of  Southern  Oregon  was  now  reaching  its  last  days.  The 
soil  whereon  the  red  man  had  trod  and  from  whence  arose  the  smoke  of  his  camp  fire, 
was  about  to  pass  forever  into  the  possession  of  an  alien  race.  The  stormy  scenes  of 
the  past  six  years  were  about  to  close,  and  the  striving  of  white  and  red  men  had 
reached  its  climax.  Hemmed  in  on  all  sides,  w^ithout  resources,  without  friends,  the 
liostile  tribes  felt  ther  inability  to  cope  with  the  organized  forces  now  directed  against 
them,  and  succumbed  to  the  inevitable.  Yet  they  did  not  relinquish  their  native  land 
without  tremendous  struggles.  The  severest  conflict  of  the  war  was  the  last.  The 
part  the  volunteers  took  in  the  termination  of  hostilities  was  very  creditable.  Major 
Bruce,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  left  in  charge  of  the  construction  of  the  proposed 
fort  at  the  Big  Meadows,  which  was  named  Fort  Lamerick,  and  was  garrisoned  by  the 
companies  of  Blakely,  Bledsoe,  Barnes,  Keith,  and  Noland,  (successor  of  Captain 
Buoy),  aggregating  rather  more  than  200  effective  men.  Being  ^above  the  230sition 
occupied  by  the  hostile  Indians,  Fort  Lamerick  proved  well  situated  for  the  j^urposes 
for  which  it  was  held,  and  being  so  strongly  garrisoned  the  Indians  were  effectually 
prevented  from  re-occupying  their  old  haunts  to  the  eastward.  While  the  troops  were 
doing  the  indispensable  duty  of  confining  the  savages  to  the  lower  part  of  the  river 
the  citizens,  safely  immured  in  their  own  houses,  were  actively  engaged  in  complaining 
that  the  army  did  nothing  and  should  be  discharged.     If  there  was  a  time  when  their 


INDIAN  WARS.  270 

services  were  valuable  it  was  now  that  Old  John  and  -his  allies,  rendered  desjaerate  by 
dearth  of  i)rovisions  and  the  neai-  approach  of  the  regulars,  sought  to  escape  from  the 
mountain  fastnesses  which  had  been  to  them  a  prison.  The  consequences  of  a  raid  by 
these  desperate  Indians  upon  the  valleys  and  inhabited  places  would  have  exceeded 
any  ills  yet  known  or  imagined  save  the  massacre  of  Wyoming,  which  might  again 
have  been  enacted.  In  a  word,  the  volunteers  rendered  the  invaluable  service  of  con- 
fining the  enemy  to  a  tract  of  uninhabited  country  where  they  could  do  no  damage,  and 
from  whence  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  escape. 

On  the  twenty-first  and  twenty-second  of  May,  Superintendent  Palmer  and  the 
commander-in-chief  held  a  conference  with  the  Indians,  invitations  to  all  of  whom  had 
been  extended.  This  is  officially  known  as  the  Council  of  Oak  Flat,  the  locality  being 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Illinois  river,  some  three  miles  above  its  mouth.  Nearly  all 
the  regular  troops  were  present,  making  quite  a  display  of  force,  the  aggregate  number 
of  regulars  at  hand  being  about  200.  Almost  all  the  hostiles  were  present,  and  awed, 
no  doubt,  by  the  impressiveness  of  the  spectacle,  most  of  them  agreed  to  surrender  on 
a  certain  day.  Not  so  however  with  chief  John.  This  undaunted  chieftain,  when 
called  upon  to  speak,  said  to  Lieutenant-Colonel  Buchanan  :  "  You  are  a  great  chief; 
so  am  I  a  great  chief;  this  is  my  country  ;  I  was  in  it  when  these  trees  were  very  little, 
not  higher  than  iny  head.  My  heart  is  sick  fighting  the  whites,  but  I  want  to  live  in 
my  country.  I  will  not  go  out  of  my  country.  I  will,  if  the  Avhites  are  willing,  go 
back  to  the  Deer  creek  country  and  live  as  I  used  to  do  among'  the  whites  ;  they  can 
visit  my  camp  and  I  will  visit  theirs  ;  but  I  will  not  lay  down  my  arms  and  go  to  the 
reserve.     1  will  fight.     Good  bye."     And  so  saying,  he  strode  into  the  forest. 

The  result  of  the  negotiations  was  the  agreement  of  a  great  many  Indians,  notably 
the  coast  bands,  to  come  in  and  give  up  their  arms  at  a  time  and  place  fixed  by  the 
superintendent.  On  or  before  the  twenty-sixth  of  May  they  were  to  assemble  at  the 
Big  Meadows,  and  be  escorted  thence  to  Port  Orford.  The  whole  of  the  regular 
troops  were  at  the  council,  save  Ord's  company  which  had  been  sent  to  Port  Orford  to 
escort  a  provision  train  to  the  command  at  Oak  Flat.  Reynold's  company  Avas  sent 
out  to  meet  the  same  train,  as  its  safety  was  very  important.  On  the  twenty-fourth 
Captain  Smith  left  Oak  Flat  with  his  eighty  dragoons  and  infantrymen  to  proceed  to 
Big  iMeadows  and  perform  escort  duty  when  the  Indians  surrendered.  He  crossed  the 
river  and  encamped  on  the  north  side  near  the  place  fixed  upon  for  the  surrender.  On 
the  twenty-fifth  the  chief  in  command  moved  from  Oak  Flat  down  the  Illinois,  and 
leaving  Jones'  company  at  its  mouth,  went  across  the  Rogue  with  Augur's  company 
and  set  about  opening  a  trail  for  the  passage  of  the  surrendered  Indians  with  their 
guard,  who  were  exj)ected  the  next  day.  On  the  evening  of  May  twenty-sixth  Lieu- 
tenant-Colonel Buchanan  with  Augur's  company  was  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,, 
some  few  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois;  Captain  Ord  was  about  ten  miles  west 
of  Oak  Flat,  with  the  train;  Jones  was  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois;  Reynolds  about 
ten  miles  below  that  point,  on  the  Port  Orford  trail;  Smith  at  Big  Meadows;  and  the 
main  body  of  the  Indians  were  on  the  bank  of  the  Rogue,  about  five  miles  above  Smith. 
The  twenty-sixth  passed  and  no  Indians  came  in,  but  Smith  was  informed  that  they 
were  delayed  by  slippery  roads,  and  would  be  in  during  the  next  day.  During  the 
evening   of  the  same  day,  George,  a  well-known  chief  of  the  Indians,  and  previously 


280  INDIAN  WARS. 

often  spoken  of,  caused  it  to  become  known  to  Captain  Smith  that  an  attack  was  medi- 
tated on  his  camp.  He  instantly  set  about  moving  his  command  to  a  much  more 
secure  position  an  the  river  between  two  small  creeks  entering  the  main  stream  from 
the  northwest.  He  occupied  an  oblong  elevation  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
in  length,  and  about  twenty  in  width.  Between  this  mound  and  the  river  is  a  narrow 
bottom  called  Big  Meadows,  but  which  was  not  the  same  locality  designated  by  the 
volunteers  as  Big  Meadows,  and  whereon  stood  Fort  Lamerick.  The  latter  locality 
is  several  miles  further  up  the  river,  and  further  removed  from  the  stream.  The  top 
of  the  elevation  on  which  Captain  Smith  was  now  encamped  formed  a  plateau  of  size 
sufficient  for  one  company  to  encamp  upon,  and  is  of  slight  elevation.  Directly  to  the 
north  is  another  elevation  of  equal  height  and  within  rifle  range  of  the  first.  Early  in 
the  morning  of  the  twenty-seventh,  Smith  sent  a  messenger  to  apprise  Buchanan  of 
his  new  position,  and  that  the  Indians  had  not  come  in.  He  also  added  to  the  express: 
"I  think  Old  John  may  attack  me." 

The  express  reached  Buchanan  in  due  time  and  was  sent  back  to  inquire  of  Smith 
if  re-inforcemeuts  were  desired ;  but  finding  him  surrounded  with  Indians  fighting 
actively,  the  express  returned  to  Buchanan,  but  getting  lost  in  the  night,  did  not  reach 
that  officer  until  the  morning  of  May  28.  Buchanan  at  once  ordered  Captain  Augur 
to  re-inforce  Smith,  and  that  officer,  marching  eighteen  miles  in  four  and  a  half  hours, 
broke  upon  the  savages  and  scattered  them.  The  story  of  Smith's  defense  against  large 
odds  is  thus  told  : 

Directly  after  the  departure  of  the  messenger,  the  savages  came  in  from  all  direc- 
tions and  soon  the  north  mound  was  covered  with  them.  A  body  of  forty  warriors 
attempted  to  enter  camp,  but  were  halted  on  the  spot  and  told  to  lay  down  their  arms 
at  a  certain  spot.  There  being  a  howitzer  planted  so  as  to  rake  that  approach,  and  a 
body  of  infantry  at  hand,  the  Indians  felt  it  best  to  retire  and  consult  their  chiefs  who 
stood  u2)on  the  northern  mound,  where  John  was  actively  giving  orders.  At  ten 
o'clock  in  the  forenoon  the  Indians,  who  had  completely  surrounded  Smith's  position, 
made  a  sudden  rush  upon  it,  from  both  sides;  but  they  were  repulsed  by  the  howitzer 
and  infantry.  John  developed  all  the  tactics  and  strategy  of  a  consummate  general  in 
his  management  of  these  and  subsequent  charges,  and  from  his  station  gave  commands 
in  the  Indian  tongue,  which  were  distinctly  heard  in  Smith's  camp  and  interpreted  to 
the  Captain.  Implicit  and  thorough  obedience  characterized  the  conduct  of  his  war- 
riors, who  fought  bravely  to  carry  out  their  commander's  intentions.  It  was  a  spectacle 
unparalleled  in  the  annals  of  savage  warfare,  to  behold  a  body  of  undisciplined  men 
move  obediently  to  perform  the  orders  of  a  leader  who  was  not  a  leader  in  the  sense  to 
which  these  children  of  the  forest  were  accustomed.  Disregarding  the  traditions  of  his 
race  which  impel  a  chief  to  perform  the  most  dangerous  personal  service,  John,  adopt- 
ing the  methods  of  civilization,  confined  himself  to  the  more  important  duty  of  organ- 
izing and  directing  his  warriors.  His  method  of  attack  was  by  means  of  small-arm  fire 
at  long  range,  wherein  many  of  the  warriors,  particularly  of  his  own  band,  were  adepts; 
charges  by  the  larger  bodies  of  braves ;  and  unexpected  attacks  by  smaller  numbers, 
who  sought  to  gain  the  mound  by  scaling  the  steeper  portions  where  the  guard  was 
weak.  Only  thirty  of  Smith's  men  had  arms  adapted  to  long  range  shooting,  the 
dragoons'  musketoons  being  useless  except  at  close  quarters.     John's  men,  on  the  con- 


*'?. 


(1 

•1 


Looking  SOUTH  from  Tunnel  No.  8. 
OS  C.R.R. 


INDIAN  WARS.  281 

trary,  possessed  excellent  pieces  and  shot  effectively  from  almost  incredible  distances. 
The  battle  having  been  prolonged  nntil  night,  the  Indians  drew  off  and  encamped, 
resolved  to  renew  the  fight  in  the  morning.  Smith  occupied  his  men  in  constructing 
rifle-pits  and  building  with  his  camp  equipage  temporary  defences,  and  in  procuring 
water  from  the  river  for  his  thirsty  troops.  On  the  following  morning  the  Indians 
again  opened  fire  and  continued  the  battle.  Old  John  put  forth  all  his  efforts  to  seize 
victory,  as  there  was  every  chance  that  re-inforcements  for  Smith  would  soon  arrive, 
when  all  hope  of  terminating  the  war  favorably  to  the  Indians  w^ould  be  lost.  But 
in  spite  of  his  generalship  and  personal  bravery  the  assaults  were  successfully  repulsed, 
and  owing  to  the  improved  system  of  defences,  less  damage  was  caused  by  the  sharji- 
shooters  upon  the  north  mound. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  Indians  formed  in  two  bodies  with  the 
intention  of  attacking  both  flanks  simultaneously,  and  in  force.  Just  at  the  critical 
moment  of  their  attack.  Captain  Augur's  comjjany  was  seen  advancing.  In  conjunc- 
tion with  these  Smith  charged  and  dispersed  the  enemy,  John  and  all  the  rest 
escaping  into  the  woods.  Smith's  loss  was  twenty-nine  in  killed  and  wounded,  the 
most  of  whom  were  hit  by  bullets  from  the  north  mound.  Says  Captain  Cram:  "The 
number  of  warriors  who  arranged  themselves  under  the  banner  of  Old  John  for  this 
last  struggle  for  the  defence  of  their  valley  was  about  400."  Aside  from  the  glaring 
solecism  of  mentioning  Indians  as  fighting  under  a  banner,  this  sentence  contains  the 
im})ortant  error  of  ascribing  to  John's  warriors  at  least  twice  their  actual  force.  Two 
hundred  would  probal)ly  be  nearer  the  mark,  and  even  this  number  may  be  too  large, 
as  it  is  well  known  that  the  band  over  which  John  was  chief  only  numbered  from  two 
to  three  score,  and  all  in  excess  must  have  been  volunteers  for  the  occasion.  It  is 
reported  that  the  Indians  were  so  confident  of  caj)turing  Smith  and  his  command  that 
they  provided  a  number  of  pieces  of  rope,  corresponding  to  the  number  of  men  in  the 
command,  wherewith  to  hang  the  whites,  thereby  saving  the  powder  which  would  be 
required  to  shoot  them ;  but  several  almost  convincing  objections  to  the  truth  of  the 
report  suggest  themselves.  They  also  intended,  it  is  said,  to  attack  the  scattered  forces 
of  Buchanan  in  detail,  and  annihilate  them  before  they  could  effect  a  junction;  afea.sible 
plan  in  view  of  their  wide  separation.  To  prevent  any  like  attempts  for  the  future, 
Buchanan  concentrated  his  forces  at  the  Big  Meadows  on  the  thirtieth  of  May,  and 
remained  there  uiitil  the  greater  ^lart  of  the  Indians  had  surrendered. 

While  Captain  Smith  was  thus  contending  with  John  and  his  warriors,  the  volun- 
teers some  miles  up  the  river  were  fighting  Limpy  and  George  and  their  people. 
Major  Latshaw  left  Fort  Lamerick  on  January  twenty-seventh  with  21o  men,  and 
marched  twelve  miles  down  the  river  and  during  the  next  day  skirmished  with  the 
Indians  of  some  rancherias  still  lower  down,  killing  some  and  taking  fifteen  prisoners. 
On  the  twenty-ninth,  the  day  following  John's  defeat  by  Captain  Smith,  more  skirm- 
ishing was  done,  and  H.  C.  Houston,  sergeant  in  Keith's  company,  was  badly  wounded. 
On  the  following  day  fighting-took  place  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  between  a  [tarty 
of  volunteers  and  some  Indians,  and  Private  Cooly,  of  Wallan's  company,  was 
wounded  in  the  thigh  and  hand.  On  the  thirty-first  Major  Latshaw,  with  loO 
men,  moved  to  Bucluinan's  headquarters,  at  Big  Meadows.  They  here  found  that 
Linq>y  and  fieorge  had  surrcndcM-cd   with   tlicir  bands  on   I\Iay  twenty-ninth,  the  day 


282  INDIAN  WARS. 

following  their  figlit  with  the  volunteers.  They  had  reported  to  Buchanan  that  the 
woods  up  the  river  were  full  of  "  Bostons,"  and  that  they  had  never  seen  so  many  guns 
in  their  lives. 

On  the  fifth  of  June,  a  great  many  Indians  having  alread}"  surrendered.  General 
Lamerick,  finding  that  the  enemy  had  all  left  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Lamerick, 
assumed  command  of  his  forces  in  person  and  moving  down  the  river,  encamped  at  Big 
Bend,  where  the  regulars  were  lying.  The  next  day  a  combined  movement  was  made 
down  the  river  by  three  companies  of  regulars  and  Caj^tain  Bledsoe's  company  of  vol- 
unteers, and  an  Indian  encampment  was  destroyed,  some  twenty  or  more  natives  being 
killed  or  drowned  in  endeavoring  to  eseajje.  Two  volunteers  were  wounded.  The 
main  body  of  the  Indians  were  encamped  on  the  river  about  fifteen  miles  below  Big 
Bend,  and-  it  was  General  Lamerick's  intention  to  attack  them,  but  their  cabins  were 
found  deserted  when  the  attacking  party  arrived. 

Under  date  of  May  thirty-first.  Governor  Curry  made  proclamation,  that  as  the 
Indians  seemed  pretty  well  subdued,  the  volunteers  in  the  field  were  ordered  to  be  dis- 
banded, with  the  exception  of  Keith's  and  Blakely's  companies,  which  under  the 
command  of  a  major,  should  remain  to  protect  such  settlements  as  seemed  in  possible 
danger,  and  to  perform  other  necessary  duties.  This  order,  issued  somewhat  prema- 
turely, was  disregarded  by  General  Lamerick,  and  we  find  him  in  the  field  a  month 
later,  no  doubt  to  the  vast  annoyance  of  the  regular  officers,  who  took  to  themselves 
the  credit  of  concluding  the  war  and  severely  blamed  the  volunteers  for  harsh  treat- 
ment of  such  Indians  as  fell  into  their  hands. 

The  remaining  acts  of  the  citizen  soldiery  can  be  briefly  told.  Major  Bruce 
headed  an  expedition  down  the  coast  to  the  country  of  the  Chetco  and  Pistol  River 
bands,  and  killed  three  males  and  took  fifty  prisoners.  The  Indians  laid  down  their 
arms  on  being  fired  on,  but  some  retreating  to  the  brush,  were  ordered  to  come  out, 
which  they  did.  The  chief  of  the  Chetcoes  was  brought  in  by  Captain  Bledsoe, 
who  distinguished  himself  by  his  activity  and  bravery  on  many  occasions.  On  June 
twenty-second.  Major  Latshaw,  with  Keith,  Noland,  and  Blakely's  companies,  marched 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river  via  Fort  Lamerick  to  Camas  prairie  and  Deer  creek,  and 
the  troops  going  to  Eugene  City  were  there  disbanded.  General  Lamerick,  with 
Barnes'  company,  jaroceeded  to  Port  Orford,  with  ordei's  for  this  organization  to  be 
mustered  out  on  July  first.  Captain  Bledsoe,  with  his  men,  remained  in  service  for  a 
short  time  subsequently. 

On  the  twentieth  of  June  Chief  John  sent  five  of  his  braves  to  Buchanan's  head- 
quarters to  announce  that  their  leader  would  surrender  on  the  same  terms  as  had 
Limj^y,  George  and  other  chiefs,  but  he  wished  the  whites  to  guarantee  safety  to 
Enos,  who  was  an  object  of  particular  aversion  to  the  volunteers.  Enos,  within  a  few 
weeks  of  the  massacre,  had  joined  forces  with  John,  but  had  been  deserted  by  the 
Coast  Indians  whose  speedy  surrender  had  alienated  him  from  his  former  associates. 
In  this  strait  he  had  found  a  friend  in  John,  whose  solicitude  in  his  protege's  behalf 
argues  a  strong  vein  of  humanity  in  his  character.  Previously  the  chief  had  refused 
all  overtures  of  peace,  saying  that  war  suited  him  sufficiently  well,  and  that  in  sjMte  of 
the  desertion  of  all  the  other  Indians  he  would  remain  in  his  beloved  country  and 
fight  continually.     But  by  the  first  of  July  all  the  known   hostiles   had  surrendered 


INDIAN  WARS.  283 

save  a  few  about  Pistol  i-iver,  and  Joliii'.s  own  band;  and  the  latter  were  now  deserted 
bj'  a  small  number  of  Klauiaths,  who,  loving  fighting  for  its  own  sake,  and  doubtless 
attracted  b}'  the  renown  of  the  celebrated  chief  whose  achievements  had  become  known 
to  the  Indians  throughout  Oregon  and  Northern  California,  left  their  too  quiet  home 
near  the  lakes,  and  came  to  learn  the  art  of  war  under  this  savage  leader.  Deserted 
by  these  and  sated  with  unequal  combats,  John  surrendered  to  the  regular  army,  an 
escort  of  110  soldiers  being  sent  out  to  accompany  him  and  his  little  band  of  thli-ty- 
five  to  Port  Orford. 

The  objects  of  the  war  were  now  accomplished.  The  last  band  of  hostile  Indians 
had  surrendered.  On  the  temporary  i-eservation  at  Port  Orford  were  gathered  about 
l,oOO  Indians  of  various  tribes,  and  including  all  the  surviving  members  of  the  bands 
which  had  begun  and  carried  on  the  war.  All  the  chiefs  of  note  were  there;  and  not 
less  than  300  warriors,  the  like  of  whom  for  bravery,  perseverance  and  fighting  powers 
have  rarely  been  seen.  Their  career  in  arms  was  now  effectually  stopped;  and  it 
remained  to  remove  them  from  a  country  where  peace  for  them  would  be  an  impossi- 
bility. The  coast  reservation  was  fixed  upon  as  their  future  abode — a  tract  seventy 
miles  long,  lying  upon  the  coast  of  Oregon  and  extending  from  Cape  Perpetua  to  Cape 
Lookout,  and  from  the  Pacific  ocean  to  the  western  water-shed  of  the  Willamette.  By 
the  first  of  September,  1856,  2,700  Indians  had  been  removed  there,  including  the 
Table  Rock  band  under  Chief  Sam,  who  were  taken  there  during  the  previous  month 
of  February,  wliile  the  war  was  in  progress.  The  Umpquas  were  removed  there  also, 
and  were  remarkable  for  their  industry  and  obedience.  The  new  home  of  the  Indians 
wa.s  a  well-watered  country,  hardly  so  fertile  as  that  they  had  left,  and  much  less 
pleasant.  Fogs  prevail  and  an  enormous  rainfall  during  the  winter  months  makes  the 
region  gloomy  and  unpleasant.  Nevertheless,  nuts,  roots,  grasses,  fish  and  game  abound 
and  furnished  the  savages  a  tolerable  living  throughout  a  portion  of  the  year.  Upon  this 
extensive  tract  the  tribes  lived  at  peace  with  each  other  and  the  outside  world,  guarded 
from  the  contact  of  the  whites  by  strong  detachments  of  military,  who  held  the  avail- 
able passes  from  the  east.  Fort  Umpqua  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name,  Fort 
Hoskins  in  King's  valley,  Polk  county,  and  another  post  still  further  north  stood 
between  them  and  civilization.  At  the  more  suitable  localities  in  this  large  tract  the 
Indians  were  located  and  in  some  cases  began  to  assist  in  their  own  support,  the  gov- 
ei-nment,  in  consideration  of  the  surrender  of  their  lands,  contributing  the  remainder. 
Here  Old  Sam,  chief  of  the  Table  Rock  band,  was  located,  and  here  he  developed 
traits  of  commercial  enterprise  previously  unsuspected;  for  he  raised  apples  and  onions 
and  disposed  of  them  to  his  less  provident  subjects  for  exorbitant  prices.  Enos,  too, 
was  there  for  a  time,  but  his  restless  habits  got  him  into  difiiculties  and  he  made  illicit 
expeditious  to  various  parts  of  the  state,  and  being  detected  therein  was  denounced  by 
certain  nervous  people  as  a  fire-brand  who.  was  seeking  to  again  spread  the  flames  of 
war.  There  is  a  tradition  in  Curry  county  that  Enos  was  hanged  upon  Battle  rock  at 
Port  Orford;  but  the  Indian  then  executed  was  one  of  four  Coquille  Indians  hanged 
for  the  murder  of  Veuable  and  Burton. 

John,  the  central  figure  of  the  war,  after  two  years  of  inaction  at  the  Yaiiuina, 
tried  to  instigate  a  revolt  of  the  savages,  with  the  object  of  seizing  arms,  overpowering 
the  military,  and  escaping  to  their  old  hunting  grounds.     Being  detected  therein.  John 


284  INDIAN  WARS. 

and  his  son  Adam  were  placed  in  irons,  and  sent  by  the  steamer  Columbia  to  Sau 
Francisco,  and  confined  in  the  militai'y  prison  at  Alcatraz.  During  the  voyage  the 
two  warriors  escaped  from  confinement,  and  attacking  their  guard  attempted  to  take 
the  ship.  They  were  soon  overjjowered,  but  not  before  the  younger  savage  lost  a  leg, 
which  was  severed  by  a  blow  with  a  butcher's  cleaver.  -They  were  turned  over  to  the 
authorities  at  Fort  Flint,  in  San  Francisco  bay,  and  after  a  somewhat  prolonged  resi- 
dence as  prisoners  of  war,  were  pardoned  on  promises  of  leading  peaceful  lives  in 
future,  and  were  returned  to  Oregon.  At  a  later  date  Adam  was  in  the  Klamath  lake 
country,  where  he  became  a  chief  The  termination  of  his  father's  career  is  not  dis- 
tinctly made  out. 

In  1857  an  accurate  census  of  the  Indians  upon  the  reserve  proved  them  to  num- 
ber 2,049  souls,  in  fourteen  different  bands.  In  1869  there  were  half  as  many,  still 
keeping  up  tribal  relations.  In  1866  the  greater  part  of  the  reservation  was  taken 
away  from  them,  and  laid  open  to  settlement  by  whites,  and  the  comparatively  few  sur- 
vivors are  confined  within  the  narrow  limits  of  what  is  called  the  Siletz  reservation, 
which  is  a  small  portion  of  the  former  extensive  tract.  Grande  Ronde  is  another  des- 
ignation for  the  same  reserve. 

Subsequent  to  the  removal  of  the  Indians  some  occurrences  took  place  in  Southern 
Oregon  which  properly  belong  to  the  subject  of  the  Indian  wars,  because  brought 
about  by  the  few  Indians  who  chose  to  remain  in  their  old  home  and  brave  the  anger 
of  their  white  enemies  rather  than  accompany  the  rest  of  their  tribe  into  exile.  In 
the  southern  part  of  Curry  county  there  remained  a  few  Indians,  and  in  the  southern 
part  of  Douglas  county,  more  particularly  in  the  vicinity  of  Cow  creek,  another  small 
band  were  in  hiding.  On  the  Illinois  river  a  few  were  also  known  to  live,  the  miser- 
able and  lonely  relics  of  Limpy's  once  powerful  band.  These  latter,  impelled,  doubt- 
less, by  hunger,  committed  a  few  robberies  during  the  month  of  July,  1856,  and  made 
an  attempt  on  the  life  of  one  Thompson,  but  were  driven  off.  The  scene  of  their 
depredations  was  chiefly  on  Sucker  and  Althouse  creeks.  On  the  road  between  Camas 
prarie  and  the  Big  Meadows  the  dead  bodies  of  two  white  men  were  found  about  the 
same  time,  whose  evident  murder  was  laid  to  Indians-  About  the  middle  of  August 
some  few  Indians  supposed  to  be  Cow  Creeks,  signalized  themselves  by  several  attacks 
on  citizens  in  the  southern  part  of  Douglas  county.  Moffit,  a  citizen,  was  pursued  by 
a  half-dozen  of  the  band,  but  escaped.  On  August  fourteenth  James  Eussell  and 
James  Weaver,  while  riding  along  the  road  between  Canyonville  and  Deer  creek,  were 
shot  at  and  the  former  severely  wounded.  Both  escaped.  The  same  band,  after  burn- 
ing two  houses,  attacked  and  wounded  another  man  near  Burnett's  place.  Citizen 
Klink,  of  Douglas  county,  was  fired  at  by  Indians  while  plowing  in  his  field.  He  ran 
to  his  house,  shot  through  both  arms.  The  assailants  soon  retired,  but  Major  Cranmer, 
at  the  head  of  a  volunteer  company,  arrested  six  of  them  a  day  or  two  subsequently. 
It  was  estimated  that  100  Indians  were  still  residing  on  Cow  creek  in  August. 

On  the  sixth  of  the  previous  month  a  packer  lost  his  life  at  the  hands  of  hostile 
Indians  on  the  Siskiyou  mountains.  A  j^ack-train  was  waylaid  by  Indians  while 
coming  from  Yreka  to  Jacksonville,  and  one  Fogle  was  shot  through  the  breast  and 
soon  died.  These  repeated  casualties  show  conclusively  that  the  state  of  affairs  that 
existed  immediately  after  the  deportation  of  the  tribes  was  of  a  most  unquiet  character ; 


INDIAN  WARS.  285 

but  society  was  not  long  subject  to  these  disturbing  causes.  By  the  early  part  of  the 
following  year  these  difficulties  had  ceased  and  quietness  reigned.  Thus  closed  the 
Indian  wars  in  Southern  Oregon. 

The  financial  history  of  the  Indian  wars  of  the  early  years  presents  considerable 
of  importance  to  interest  the  reader.  It  has  been  mentioned  that  the  demands 
of  the  war  of  1853  were  paid  in  full  two  years  later,  through  the  action  of  General 
Lane  and  others.  The  accounts  growing  out  of  the  Walker  expedition  "To  fight 
the  emigrants,"  as  some  facetious  ones  have  termed  it,  were  paid  subsequent  to  the 
war  of  the  rebellion.  The  act  of  Congress  which  authorized  their  jmyment,  was 
based  upon  a  previous  act  approved  July  17,  1854,  entitled  "An  act  to  authorize  the 
secretary  of  war  to  settle  and  adjust  the  expenses  of  the  Rogue  River  war  [of  1853]," 
which  was  extended  to  cover  the  case  of  Captain  Walker's  company.  The  claims 
growing  out  of  the  last  Indian  war  achieved  quite  a  history.  In  the  summer  of  1856 
the  matter  of  these  claims  W'as  brought  before  Congress  by  the  Oregon  delegate. 
General  Lane,  and  being  referred  to  the  committee  on  military  affairs,  a  recommenda- 
tion was  made  by  that  committee  favorable  to  the  payment  of  the  expenses  of  the  wars 
in  Oregon  and  Washington,  the  two  sets  of  claims — arising  from  the  Rogue  River  and 
the  Yakima  wars — becoming  mingled  in  all  congressional  and  official  rejjorts.  In 
consequence  of  this  recommendation  congress,  on  the  eighteenth  of  August,  passed  an 
act,  one  of  whose  provisions  is:  "Be  it  enacted,  That  the  secretary  of  war  be  directed 
to  examine  into  the  amount  of  expenses  necessarily  incurred  in  the  suppression  of 
hostilities  in  the  late  Indian  war  in  Oregon  and  Washington  by  the  territorial  govern- 
ments in  the  maintenance  of  the  volunteer  forces  engaged,  including  pay  of  volun- 
teers, and  he  may  if  he  deem  it  necessary,  direct  a  commission  of  three  to  report  these 
expenses  to  him,"  etc.  In  consequence  a  commission  consisting  of  Captain  Andrew^  J. 
Smith,  previously  many  times  mentioned  in  the  account  of  the  wars;  Captain  Rufus 
Ingalls,  now  a  high  official  in  the  paymaster's  department,  U.  S.  A.;  and  Lafayette 
Grover,  of  Salem,  Or.,  was  appointed  to  make  the  examination  as  aforesaid.  They 
began  work  in  October,  1856,  and  after  spending  more  than  a  year  in  a  careful  inves- 
tigation of  these  claims,  "traveling  over  the  whole  field  of  operations  occupied  by  the 
volunteers  during  hostilities,  and  becoming  thoroughly  conversant  with  the  matter," 
made  their  report  to  the  secretary  of  war.  According  to  their  examination  the  sum  of 
1^4,44! (,949.33  was  due  as  the  expenses  on  the  part  of  Oregon.  The  muster-rolls  of 
companies  represented  an  indebtedness,  after  deducting  stoppages  for  clothing,  etc., 
of  11,409,644.53;  while  scrip  had  been  issued  to  the  extent  of  $3,040,344.80  in  jmy- 
ment  of  supplies,  etc.,  furnished.  This  aggregate  was  exclusive  of  claims  for  spoliation 
by  Indians,  and  included  only  what  were  thought  to  be  the  legitimate  expenses  of  main- 
taining the  volunteer  force  in  the  field.  The  report  and  accompanying  documents  were 
transmitted  to  congress,  and  on  the  eighth  of  February,  1859,  a  resolution  passed  the 
house  of  representatives  providing  that  it  should  be  the  duty  of  the  third  auditor  of 
the  treasury  to  examine  the  vouchers  and  i)apers  connected  with  the  subject,  and  make 
a  report  in  the  December  following,  of  the  amount  due  each  individual  engaged  in  the 
military  service  of  the  two  territories  during  the  war.  The  resolution  also  provided 
that  he  should  allow  the  volunteers  no  higher  pay  than  was  received  by  the  officers 
and  soldit'rs  of  like  grade  in  the  regular  army,  inrludin>;'  tlic  extra  pay  of  two  dollars 


286  INDIAN  WAES. 

jjer  month  conferred  by  act  of  congress  of  1852  on  troops  serving  on  the  Pacific  coast ; 
that  he  was  to  recognize  no  company  or  individual  as  entitled  to  pay  except  such  as 
had  been  duly  called  into  service  by  the  territorial  authorities;  that  in  auditing  claims 
for  supplies,  transj^ortation,  etc.,  he  was  directed  to  have  a  due  regard  to  the  number  of 
troops,  to  their  period  of  service  and  to  the  prices  which  were  current  at  the  time  and 
place. 

On  February  7,  1860,  K.  J.  Atkinson,  third  auditor,  made  his  report.  It  was  an 
exhaustive  and  voluminous  document,  and  it  reduced  the  grand  total  of  the  claims  of 
various  sorts,  acted  on  by  the  three  commissioners,  from  $6,011,457.36  to  $2,714,808.55, 
a  reduction  of  about  fifty-five  per  cent.  This  estimate  was  taken  as  a  basis  for  these 
claims,  and  by  a  subsequent  act  of  congress  a  sum  of  money  to  correspond  was  appro- 
priated to  pay  them,  the  greater  portion  of  which  has  been  disbursed. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 


NAMES    OF    THE    VOLUNTEERS. 

Muster-Roll  of  the   Second    Regiment  -Officers    and   Privates   Who   Took    Part    in   the   War   of    1855 -Com- 
panies Omitted. 

Eoll  of  the  Second  Regiment  Oregon  Mounted  Volunteers,  December  7,  1855 
to  March  18,  1856  : 

Colonel,  R.  L.  Williams ;  Lieutenant-Colonel,  William  J.  Martin  ;  Major,  James 
Bruce  ;  Adjutant,  Charles  S.  Drew  ;  Regimental  Quartermaster,  Jacob  S.  Rinearson  ; 
Commissary,  Terrill  A.  Jackson  ;  First  Lieutenants  attached  to  staff,  Riley  E.  Stratton, 
Edgar  B.  Stone,  Andrew  J.  Kane,  Walter  S.  Hotchkiss ;  Sergeant  Major,  Daniel  P. 
Barnes. 

Roll  of  field  and  stafi'of  the  Second  Regiment  on  the  nineteenth  of  March,  1856: 

Colonel,  John  Kelsey;  Lieutenant-Colonel,  William  W.  Chapman;  Major,  James 
Bruce ;  Major  First  Recruiting  Battalion,  William  H.  Latshaw  ;  Major  Second  Re- 
cruiting Battalion,  E.  L.  Massey ;  Adjutant,  Sandford  R.  Myres  ;  Adjutant  Right 
Column,  J.  M.  Cranmer;  Adjutant  Recruiting  Battalion,  Lyman  B.  Munson  ;  Regi- 
mental Quartermasters,  John  B.  White,  Joseph  L.  White ;  Commissary,  Terrill  B. 
Jackson;  Sergeant  Major,  Byron  M.  Dawes;  Farrier,  William  Horseley. 

Company  A. — Mustered  October  23,  1855  ;  discharged  February  6,  1856 — Cap- 
tain, Joseph  Bailey ;  First  Lieutenant,  D.  W.  Keith  ;  Second  Lieutenant,  Cyrenus 
Mulkey;  Sergeants,  T.  J.  Holland,  W.  A.  Owen,  R.  Hayes,  Jonathan  Riggs  ;  Cor- 
porals, Chas.  McClure,  James  Woodey,  A.  Crissman,  John  Wilson  ;  Privates,  T.  J. 
Aubery,  M.  C.  Aubery,  J.  C.  Anderson,  J.  Buffington,  G.  Bogart,  C.  Bogart,  O.  H.  P. 


INDIAN  WARS.  287 

Beagle,  J.  H.  Beagle,  W.  L.  Baskett,  M.  Belcher,  J.  M.  Brewer,  A.  Benton,  Wm.  Cox, 

F.  Cogswell,  W.  Dougherty,  G.  B.  Day,  J.  J.  Davison,  W.  B.  Earnest,  I.  Early,  M. 
Furgerson,  J.  W.  Funk,  J.  M.  Gale,  J.  Gillespie,  J.  L.  Gardner,  G.  B.  Hayes,  L.  C. 
Hawley,  J.  Henderson,  D.  C.  Howard,  W.  Howard,  E.  Hills,  Wm.  Hunt,  H.  Holmes, 
J.  January,  A.  A.  King,  W.  Kirki^atrick,  A.  W.  Laughlin,  J.  Lapham,  Z.  S.  McCall, 
J.  F.  jMulkey,  J.  Mulkey,  E.  H.  McGinuis,  H.  B.  McPherson,  J.  W.  McMinn,  S.  H. 
McBee,  J.  S.  Miller,  A.  A.  Morgan,  L;  Morgan,  C.  J.  Matlock,  R.  M.  Masterson,  A. 
Murray,  H.  Milbourn,  J.  McCall,  G.  Ozmond,  John  Pankey,  W.  W.  Patterson,  L.  B. 
Roland,  W.  L.  Rogers,  L.  S.  Rogers,  R.  Rush,  J.  W.  Richardson,  Benj.  Stanton,  J.  C. 
•Summer,  Jos.  Siden,  H.  A.  Stevens,  M.  Taylor,  S.  Taylor,  G.  W.  Tucker,  D.  Taylor, 
Robert  Wilson,  C.  P.  Wilson,  J.  M.  Wallan,  W.  M.^Vatson,  John  Watson,  C.  W. 
Wild. 

CoMPA>'Y  D. — Mustered  November  10,1855;  discharged  May  15,  1856 — Cap- 
tain, E.  A.  Rice  ;  First  Lieutenant,  John  S.  Miller ;  Second  Lieutenant,  J.  F.  Ander- 
son ;  Sergeants,  Ebeuezer  Pinkham,  John  Hailey ;  Corporals,  G.  W.  Collins,  James 
Dickey,  John  McBride ;  Privates,  Ira  W.  Barbee,  Charles  Barnes,  Joseiih  Craine, 
John  Crosby,  William  Cogle,  J.  M.  Cramer,  J.  J.  Charlton,  Lewis  Calhoun,  Nicholas 
Cook,  Oscar  Duskins,  William  M.  Elliott,  W.  M.  Griffin,  B.  B.  Griffin,  J.  F.  Griffin, 
C.  C.  Goodwin,  Alvan  Heading,  Isaac  C  Hill,  F.  M.  Huddleston,  J.  T.  Hamilton 
David  N.  Herren,  Edward  James,  Jacob  Long,  Tobias  Lytle,  Nathan  Milton,  Tobias 
Mosev,  A.  J.  Mattoon,  George  Morris,  Chancy  N3'e,  S.  Pearse,  Asher  T.  Prouty,  Na- 
thaniel Rice,  Wm.  C.  Riggs,  William  J.  Robinson,  Jacob  B.  Rinehart,  Isaac  Swinden, 

G.  Stopper,  Peter  Sailing,  Samuel  Smith,  Bushford  Stanton,  Noah  Sagers,  Jacob 
Tompson,  D.  W.  A'anmarter,  John  W.  Wood,  Miles  Wakeman,  Robison  Wright, 
William  Yerke. 

Company  E. — Mustered  at  Fort  Vannoy,  November  10,  1855,  discharged  Feb- 
ruary 1.  185(5 — Captain,  Robert  L.  AVilliams  (elected  Colonel,  December  7);  First 
Lieutenant,  Hugh  O'Neal  (became  Captain,  January  5,  1856);  Second  Lieutenant, 
Michael  Bushey  ;  Sergeants,  George  A.  Eades,  William  J.  Matthews,  Grenville  Blake, 
Richard  Moore;  Corjaorals,  R.  C.  Brewer,  Amasa  Morse,  John  Lee,  Samuel  Cornelius  ; 
Privates,  John  Axtell,  B.  Antoine,  Charles  Abraham,  Benjamin  Armstrong,  James 
Black,  L.  Bozarth,  W.  E.  Bozarth,  M.  Baughraan,  Daniel  Briggs,  B.  B.  Brockway, 
( 'hristian  Bellifelt,  Joshua  Barker,  Michael  Bone,  William  Barton,  J.  H.  Barnes,  Elzey 
Bird,  H.  R.  Covert,  John  Cheeney,  Nicholas  Comser,  James  Curtain,  Abraham  Cole, 
Wm.  Clements,  Samuel  Christalier,  Ichabod  Dodsen,  Andrew  J.  Duskill,  John  C.  S. 
Davis,  Joseph  Dickerson,  George  Dinsmore,  James  Duydate,  J.  P.  Davidson,  Thomas 
DeHaven,  H.  H.  Epps,  George  R.  Elliott,  Michael  Emerich,  Harry  Evens,  Alexander 
Fuller,  William  Finch,  A.  W.  Forgey,  J.  L.  Frye,  S.  A.  Frye,  Thomas  Gill,  Robert 
Ganimill,  Ray  Giddes,  J.  C.  Graves,  John  Gould,  J.  W.  Galbraith,  Jefferson  Howell, 
Green  Holton,  John  R.  Hale,  Samuel  Hawkins,  Henry  Hempster,  William  Heverlo, 
.lohn  B.  Hutton,  Peter  Harrison,  P.  H.  Harper,  William  Hyde,  James  Hornl)uckle,  I. 
S.  Inman,  H.  S.  Jones,  John  Jones,  John  Johnson,  John  Johnston,  H.  F.  Johnston, 
Chas.  Kimball,  James  Kelly,  G.  W.  Keeler,  T.  R.  Lawson,  John  Miller,  Voorhe  Mul- 
lan,  Jacob  Miller,  Thomas  Ma.stin,  S.  K.  Myers,  N.  H.  Martin,  P.  J.  Mann,  Thos.  E. 
•McKdin,   .lohu   Meter,   S.    D.   Northcutt,  W.   W.    Northcutt,   Francis  Pierson,   John 


2SS  INDIAN  WAES. 

Parder,  Samuel  Parks,  W.  N.  Pollock,  David  Philipps,  Thomas  Kyaa,  N.  Ramsey, 
J.  M.  Roberts,  Daniel  Richardson,  A.  M.  Raiuey,  L.  Scoller,  W.  Stamnes,  H.  W. 
Stainton,  Jno.  Slater,  Jacob  Schernerhom,  Seth  Smith,  D.  H.  Sexton,  P.  Snellback, 
Jno.  Sargent,  Wm.  Smith,  S.  B.  Sarles,  Ed.  Smith,  Wm.Torrey,  Jas.  Thompson,  A.  J. 
Vincent,  Z.  Yan  Norman,  George  Weeks,  J.  C.  Ward,  James  Wilson,  G.  Walker,  H. 
Wilson,  O.  Whitsell,  J.  J.  Whitsell,  Charles  Ward,  Alex.  Watts,  J.  J.  Writter,  N.  J. 
Walker,  Jas.  Woolen,  Anderson  Williams,  D.  M.  Yates. 

CoMPAXY  F. — Mustered  November  10,  1855 ;  discharged,  February  10,  1856— 
Captain,  William  A.  Wilkinson;  First  Lieutenant,  C.  F.  Blake;  Second  Lieutenant, 
M.  F.  Wakeman ;  Sergeants,  E.  Hewitt,  A.  M.  Shauntz,  S.  Fox,  Robert  Cochran ; 
Corporals,  James  Stephens,  William  Gray,  Lewis  Miller,  Hiram  Wade ;  Privates,  Wil- 
liam Allen,  B.  W.  Alkin,  John  D.  Alkire,  William  Arnett,  Abraham  Bowman,  Wil- 
liam Bradley,  James  Brown,  Stephen  Betts,  Arthur  Coffin,  Alfred  Carter,  J.  H. 
Cochran,  J.F.  Chaflfe,  N.  Campbell,  G.  C.  Clay,  Henry  Cylinski,  Emory  Dalton, 
Theodore  Deppe,  W.  H.  Davidson,  Patrick  Daily,  W.  W.  Edmonson,  William  Ells- 
worth, W.  L.  Freeman,  Ransom  Freeman,  J.  Farrout,  Joseph  Fitzen,  J.  W.  Gaveny, 
Charles  Griflfith,  O.  Guilbert,  Francis  Graves,  Edwin  L.  Hesse,  Simon  N.  Harvey,  F. 
Y.  Henderson,  Thomas  Huffman,  John  Harris,  Henry  Hawes,  Thomas  Hays,  John 
Holloway,  William  Hobbes,  J.  B.  Hunt,  John  Keller,  David  Kelsey,  A.  J.  Long,  J.W. 
Liles,  G.'  F.  Ledford,  G.  Mathews,  J.  W.  ]May,  T.  H.  Mitchell,  James  McCrate,  B.  F. 
Moore,  Elias  D.  Mercer,  Eli  Martin,  Michael  Mowan,  J.  R.  Meacham,  E.  F.  Newland, 
James  Ogg,  Andrew  Oldsen,  John  Osborn,  William  Purvis,  W.  W.  Parrish,  Albion 
Powell,  John  Ragsdale,  George  Reed,  Andrew  Russel,  Jonathan  Smith,  Isaac  Sneltser, 
John  Stanley,  J.  E.  Stephens,  James  J.  Sanders,  John  B.  White,  J.  W.  White,  Joseph 
Ward,  D.  W.  Wallace,  William  Worden. 

Company  F. — Re-enlisted  February  11, 1856;  discharged  May  26, 1856 — Captain, 
W.  A.  Wilkinson;  First  Lieutenant,  C.  F.  Blake  ;  Second  Lieutenant,  Edwin  L.  Hesse  ; 
Sergeants,  J.  H.  Cochran,  A.  J.  Long,  T.  W.  Mitchell,  Robert  Cochran  ;  Corporals,  T. 
W.  Siles,  J.  F.  M.  Hash,  S.  N.  Harvey,  John  D.  Alkire;  Privates, William  Arnett,  A. 
Bowman,  James  Brown,  William  Bradley,  Arthur  Coffin,  Henry  Cylinski,  William 
Custerline,  Alfred  Carter,  W.  H.  Davidson,  Patrick  Daily,  Emory  Dalton,  Theodore 
Deppe,  W.  W.  Edmonson,  B.  F.  Endersby,  Joseph  Fitzen,  J.  W.  Gaveny,  Francis 
Graves,  William  Hobbes,  John  Harris,  S.  M.  Hall,  Seth  Hall,  Daniel  S.  Hicks,  James 
B.  Hunt,  David  Johnston,  David  Kelsey,  W.  C.  Miller,  Greenville  Mathews,  James 
McCrate,  Michael  Moran,  Andrew  McClure,  B.  F.  Moore,  F.  N.  McKee,  E.  D.  Mercer, 
J.  W.  May,  T.  R.  Miller,  B.  F.  Newlin,  Oscar  Nott. 

CoMPAXY  G. — Mustered  February  6,  1856 ;  discharged  May  28,  1856— Captain, 
Miles  F.  Alcorn ;  First  Lieutenant,  James  M.  Matney  ;  Second  Lieutenant,  John 
Osborn  ;  Sergeant,  Silas  J.  Day  (elected  first  lieutenant  April  8)  ;  Privates,  Robert 
Alcorn,  Joseph  M.  Addington,  Squire  Butcher,  George  Black,  George  Brown,  John 
W.  Buckles,  William  Blane,  William  Brockus,  Chester  Badger,  Zachariah  Butts,  Ariel 
E.  Chapin,  Andrew  J.  Cooper,  John  R.  Cooper,  Peter  Cook,  George  W.  Cherry,  Ed- 
ward W.  Day,  Henry  Gordon,  Moses  Hopwood,  Miller  Judd,  Eli  Judd,  Allen  Jones, 
Ceyren  Knudsen,  William  H.  Lane,  William  Lane,  John  N.  Lewis,  John  Lee,  David 
McClements,  B.  F.  McKeen,  John  Morton,  George  Parks,  Thomas  C.  Rowell,  Samuel 


-D  r- 


'■^^^mr^ 


INDIAN  "WARS.  289 

Reed'n-,  Peter  K.  Sanderson,  Jesse  H.  Stanley,  J.  1).  Sjjears,  Woods  T.  Tucker,  Jnlui 
AVineland,  James  Woods,  Thomas  T.  Walker. 

Company  H. — Mustered  at  Roseburg,  November  2.'),  ISoo  ;  discharged  Februaiy 
10,1850 — Captain,  Samuel  Gordon;  First  Lieutenant,  Samuel  B.  Hadley ;  Second 
Lieutenant,  Theodore  Prater  ;  Sergeants,  James  B.  Patton,  Joseph  Embree,  Samuel  I. 
Buntou,  John  Partz  ;  Corporals,  Samuel  H.  Mastin,  S.  B.  Greenland,  Elijah  Bunton, 
Jr.,  William  A.  Wallace  ;  Privates,  E.  P.  Anderson,  Thomas  Anderson,  William  ]\L 
Abbott,  E.  Barker,  John  Byron,  William  Briggs,  I.  M.  Barker,  Levi  Bird,  J.  X.  W. 
Ijeliew,  Hugh  Carson,  H.  M.  Colon,  John  C.  Cannon,  E.  Cupsin,  William  C'ochran, 
Garrett  Crockett,  Richard  Duvall,  John  Dodson,  John  W.  Dixon,  M.  S.  Daily,  AVil- 
liam  Doty,  William  P.  Day,  George  W.  Day,  R.  H.  Estell,  Hiram  Everman,  A.  A. 
Engels,  W.  M.  Eaton,  George  Finch,  I.  AY.  Farleigh,  James  Fordyce,  I.  K.  Ford,  John 
Fitzhugh,  Levi  Gibbs,  Robert  G.  Hadtey,  Wm.  Ireland,  C.  W.  John.son,  John  Leicer, 
David  Lilly,  Robert  J.  Long,  George  Lawrence,  Henry  A.  Livingstone,  A.  McElwain, 
W.  J.  Moore,  Edwin  Morgan,  N.  Mitchell,  C.  J.  McClelland,  J.  B.  Nichols,  David 
O'Neil,  V.  Oden,  James  M.  Pyles,  John  Price,  L.  D.  Philipps,  Richard  Patrum, 
Robert  Painter,  Jr.,  Jesse  Pool,  F.  M.  Purley,  I.  Rapplye,  Wm.  Russell,  Wm.  H. 
Riddle,  Eli.  B.  Robinson,  C.  B.  Rawson,  Alexander  Reed,  W.  D.  Singleton,  James  R. 
Scott,  Hawkins  Shelton,  Edward  Sheffield,  Thomas  Saum,  Richard  Shelton,  N.  I.  Sexton, 
William  Silvers,  I.  W.  Thororelf,  A.  S.  Thompson,  W.  N.  West,  G.  W.  Williams, 
Mathias  Williams,  I.  P,  Willson,  F.  M.  W^right,  James  R.  Wade,  William  Wilson, 
William  Weekley. 

CoMt'AXY  I. — Mustered  at  Roseburg,  November  22,  185-5;  discharged  January 
18,  1856 — Captain,  W.  W.  Chapman  (became  lieutenant-colonel  of  second  regiment) ; 
First  Lieutenant,  Z.  Dimmick;  Second  Lieutenant,  James  M.  Morrill;  Sergeants, 
Lvman  S.  Kellogg,  William  Wells,  Abijah  Ives,  Thomas  Cozad;  Corporals,  William 
A.  Allen,  Abraham  (".  Langdon,  Johnson  B.  Gough,  Joseph  S.  Reid;  Privates,  Simon 
H.  AUensworth,  George  H.  Burtgess,  R.  Butler,  Edward  Breen, William  Barr,  Clayton 
F.  Bramlet,  Benjamin  Brattain,  John  Burrington,  C.  A.  Bartrutt,  Henry  Casey, 
Tliomas  Chapman,  James  F.  Cooper,  G.  J.  Chapman,  Daniel  Craft,  Alexander 
Canautt,  William  Canautt,  William  Davis,  R.  D.  Dimmick,  Solomon  Ensley,  A.  P. 
Frayer,  John  Frayer,  James  Farmer,  James  Fraim,  J.  Crosby  Fitzgerald,  David  W. 
Frarey,  Levi  Gant,  James  L.  Garrett,  Edward  Griffin,  William  Golden,  Francis 
Geiger,  Addison  C.  Gibbs,  Calvin  B.  Green,  George  Greenwald,  Charles  G.  Hindei-er, 
William  Hubbard,  A.  T.  Howard,  William  W.  Haynes,  Clark  Hudson,  Ira  M.  Haiuia, 
Joseph  Hudson,  William  Hilbert,  William  Hathaway,  R.  :\I.  Hutdiinson,  Peter 
Johnson,  George  Kuntz,  Levi  Kent,  James  F.  Levens,  Z.  Levens,  J.  A.  Landes, 
Tliomas  Levens,  Ansel  Langdon,  James  ]McKinney,  John  jNIarshall,  William 
jSIcKearns,  James  McDonald,  James  McGranery,  John  Nicholson,  W.  R.  Pattei'son, 
George  Paine,  Benton  H.  Pyburn,  Samuel  Rich,  William  Robertson,  Thomas  Stuttered, 
George  W.  Snyder,  Andrew  Sawyer,  James  F.  Savery,  S.  R.  Slayton,  Jackson  Swar- 
engen,  John  Sawyer,  S.  E.  Smith,  M.  R.  Shar])e,  ]Madison  Scoby,  Edward  Spicer, 
Daniel  Test,  Henry  Thornton,  D.  C.  Underwood,  Ansel  Wcatlierby,  L.  L.  Williams, 
H.  H.  Woodward,  John  P.  Wiggins. 

Company  T. — Re-enlisted  January  18,  185(3;  discharged  May  14,  1850 — Captain, 
W.    W.    Cliuiiniau;    First    Lieutenant,    S.    S.    Kellooi.-;    Second     Lieutenant.    Ansel 


290  INDIAN  AVARS. 

Weatherby;  Sergeants,  Heurv  Tlioniton,  Henry  W.  Woodward,  William  Robertson, 
W.  F.  Clingan;  Corporals,  Benton  H.  Pybnrn,  Jacob  Pittman,  Abel  J.  Howard, 
William  McKearns;  Privates,  W.  A.  Allen,  Eli  Allen,  B.  Brattaiu,  William  Brainard, 
W.  F.  Bay,  James  G.  Chapman,  Thomas  Chapman,  W.  W.  Chapman,  Jr.,  W.  H. 
Crouch,  William  Canauld,  William  F.  Clingan,  William  Cummins,  W.  H.  Chajiliue, 
T.  Dayon,  J.  W.  Gordon,  J.  B.  GoflP,  William  Hilbert,  M.  B.  Holmbs,  James  Hilburn, 
J.  A.  Landes,  J.  J.  Mitchell,  William  Patterson,  Jolin  H.  Pope,  Evans  Smith,  Wil- 
liam Smith,  Thomas  Stoddard,  Milo  Taylor,  William  Theil,  James  Terrell,  S.  S. 
Williams. 

Company  A. — (First  recruiting  battalion.) — Clustered  at  Roseburg,  February  8, 
1856  ;  discharged  May  20,  1856 — Captain  Edward  Sheffield  ;  First  Lieutenant,  S.  S.  J. 
Bunteu  ;  Second  Lieutenant,  E.  Capron  ;  Sergeants,  S.  H.  Mastin,  John  Farleigh,  R. 
G.  Hadley,  J.  G.  Belieu;  Corporals,  John  Xoah,  N.  Farris,- Thos.  Paul,  W.  R.  Robin- 
son ;  Privates,  E.  P.  Anderson,  D.  Anderson,  A.  H.  Brown,  S.  Belieu,  James  Bean,  L. 
Bird,  J.  M.  Baker,  J.  V.  Bradley,  H.  Clifton,  J.  Cobble,  G.  Cox,  Jesse  Davenport,  W. 
Dooley,  F.  ^NI.  Ellsworth,  J.  C.  Fitzgerald,  B.  F.  Frewel,  D.  M.  Gilman,  James  Harris, 
S.  Livingston,  J.  Livingston,  J.  D.  B.  Lee,  Peter  McKinney,  J.  M.  McKiuney,  M.  C. 
McCloud,  L.  M.  McCray,  W.  McKnight,  J.  McKinney,  P.  G.  Masters,  S.  M.  Masters, 
E.  McElwain,  John  Pierce,  E.  Painter,  H.  Rideuham,  James  Stewart,  W.  Silver,  John 
Siwash,  John  Spence,  A.  Thompson,  A.  H.  Woodruff. 

CojiPANY  B  (First  recruiting  battalion) — Mustered  in  February  18,  1856; 
discharged  June  18,  1856 — Captain,  Abel  George;  First  Lieutenant,  William  H. 
Chapline;  Second  Lieutenant,  G.  C.  Vanlandingham ;  Sergeants,  Byron  X.  Dalbes, 
Ezra  Smith,  F.  D.  Chapline,  A.  J.  Doty;  Corporals,  Columbus  White,  William 
Dennis,  John  Mitchell,  Willson  W.  Sharp;  Privates,  Jesse  Adams,  George  W.  Black- 
well,  A.  B.  Buttolph,  Isaac  Carson,  Stanford  Capps,  Jacob  Colclosure,  F.  G.  Collins, 
A.  E.  Colwell,  John  Chandler,  George  W.  Cups,  Robert  Davis,  Peter  DeMoss, 
William  Ellsworth,  John  Evens,  J.  H.  Fanning,  J.  A.  Freeman,  S.  A.  Harding, 
Thomas  Hays,  George  S.  Hays,  C.  H.  Horn,  R.  Jackson,  John  Jones,  Henry  Kennedy, 
Thomas  Latham,  Donna  Lascreaux,  Ormsby  McKean,  Peter  Meeds,  John  McCartney, 
S.  McMillen,  H.  D.  Mount,  Thomas  Patten,  M.  S.  Pedeu,  F.  Quabey,  Lawson  T. 
Reid,  F.  M.  Rliodes,  J.  F.  Richardson,  George  Robinson,  Frances  Sackett,  Frederick 
Saddler,  William  Shanks,  Richard  Smith,  A.  J.  Tomas,  George  S.  Thompson,  Geoi'ge 
AV.  Thurmon,  William  Watts,  J.  Woodward,  Willson  C.  Wilcox,  A.  Wyland. 

Company  C  (First  recruiting  battalion) — Mustered  in  February  19,  1856;  dis- 
charged May  21,  1856 — Captain,  Michael  Bushey;  First  Lieutenant,  Samuel  C. 
Nicholson;  Second  Lieutenant,  Henry  B.  Conroy;  Sergeant,  Aaron  R.  Dead  wood; 
Privates,  J.  G.  Adams,  J.  M.  Anderson,  Henry  J.  Ammons,  David  Brenan,  Erben 
E.  Bozarth,  Tomas  Bozarth,  Atchinson  Blackwood,  E.  B.  Ball,  J.  C.  Cox,  John  H. 
Colclosure,  Samuel  Christelier,  Sewyel  Cox,  George  C.  Clay,  Peter  Cook,  Robert 
Davis,  George  Densmore,  Jasper  A.  Daniels,  Edward  H.  Day,  Alfred  H.  Fisher, 
Henry  Gordon,  David  M.  Groom,  Henry  Green,  Dempsey  Hamilton,  Henry  Jones, 
William  Lane,  Adam  Linn,  Jacob  jNIiller,  William  McGloughlin,  William  McMahon, 
Guilbert  Parker,  James  M.  Pyle,  C.  B.  Roland,  Wently  Roop,  James  Strong,  Seth 
Smith,  Peter  O.  Smith,  William  J.  Tracy,  W.  G.  Winningham,  Anderson  Williams, 
A.  I.  Watts,  T.  G.  Winningham,  Geo)-ge    Wood,  T.  1).  Wright. 


INDIAN  WARS.  291 

Company  D. — (First  recruiting  battalion.)  Mustered  February  27,  at  Camp  Stewart; 
discharged  May  26,  1856 — Captain  M.  M.  Williams ;  First  Lieutenant,  J.  A.  Carter  ; 
Second  Lieutenant,  George  B.  Curry  ;  Sergeants,  Joseph  Tracy,  A.  D.  Lake,  Merritt 
Bellinger,  Abner  Miner;  Corporals,  S.  J.  Southerland,  Samuel  Clayton,  W.  M.  Little, 
Denis  Crawley;  Privates,  Charles  Anderson,  J.  K.  Applegate,  John  Albon,  B.  L. 
Buttey,  W.  F."  Burns,  J.  B.  Burns,  D.  P.  Brittain,  Thos.  .J.  Bayless,  E.  Blodget,  J.  B. 
Bi-aman,  W.  Churchill,  John  Churchill,  T.  M.  Cameron,  P.  W.  Cook,  J.  Dickens,  H. 
Dixon,  J.  P.  Delk,  G.  E.  Enos,  B.  F.  Elliott,  S.  Eager,  E.  Frost,  H.  B.  Fowler,  R.  R. 
Gates,  Alex.  Harris,  A.  C.  Harrison,  J.  Johnson  W.  Lampson,  J.  R.  Little,  C.  Links- 
wiler,  T.  Lamberson,  L.  Little,  A.  Lee,  J.  J.  Murphy,  S.  Mooney,  Ira  Moody  M.  Mc- 
Lane,  R.  S.  McMullin,  A.  C.  Nelson,  W.  Newcomb,  E.  B.  Poland,  W.  F.  Pearman,  F. 
Pierson,  F.  M.  Rhoades,  J.  Rhoades,  Alex.  Rainey,  W.  M.  Southerland,  A.  W.Stingent, 
M.  G.  Sellers,  G.  S.  Smith,  W.  A.  Stinger,  Alex.  Thompson,  E.  Taber,  James  Terrell, 
D.  Tryon,  S.  M.  Wait,  Moses  Warner. 

Company  A. — (Second  recruiting  battalion).  Mustered  February  lo,  1856  ;  dis- 
cliarged  June  10, 1856 — Captain,  Wm.  H.  Latshaw  (promoted  to  Major  March  19);  First 
Lieutenant,  J.  M.  Wallan  (became  Captain  March  19) ;  Second  Lieutenant,  Charles 
W.  McClure  ;  Sergeants,  J.  L.  White,  John  Duvall,  John  Wilson,  Dennis  Prick ett; 
Corporals,  David  Wilson,  William  Cox,  F.  M.  Mansfield,  J.  C.  Templeton ;  Privates, 
W.  Allen,  R.  C.  Breeding,  E.  H.  Baber,  R.  D.  Cotton,  Wm.  Crow,  Benjamin  Cox,  D. 
B.  Cooley,  John  Collins,  J.  F.  Duuiway,  John  Dodson,  M.  Emrick,  J.  W.  Funk,  J. 
Galbraith,  J.  R.  Gist,  J.  R.  Hays,  G.  W.  Howard,  H.  P.  Holmes,  A.  Haney,  Vi.  R. 
Jones,  Jonathan  Keeney,  Jas.  Lapham,  A.  S.  McClure,  Bobt.  Matheny,  J.  H.  McCord, 
A.  J.  McClure,  John  Miller,  John  McCall,  James  Petrie,  William  Privitt,  D.  H.  Put- 
nam, W.  H.  Peck,  Mahlon  Petrie,  M.  C.  Pettyjohn,  R.  S.  Shook,  Conrad  Stuygle,  W- 
W.  Shortridge,  J.  P.  Taylor,  C.  W.  Tedrow,  J.  B.  Thompson,  William  Wilson. 

Company  B. — (Second  recruiting  battalion).  Mustered  February  18,  1856;  dis- 
charged June  21,  1856 — Captain,  John  Kelser  (promoted  to  Colonel ;  succeeded  by  W. 
J.  Robertson);  First  Lieutenant,  J.  L.  Combs;  Second  Lieutenant,  Comedon  S.  Lura ; 
Sergeants,  J.  W.  Chisholm,  Thomas  Clemmins,  M.  Adams,  W.  C.  Jasper ;  Corporals, 
James  S.  Phillips,  Morgan  Lillard,  William  Ownsby,  A.  F.  Ragsdale  ;  Privates,  W. 
H.  Anderson,  John  F.  Baird,  Carroll  Baird,  Robert  S.  Barclay,  Robert  Bolan,  C.  P. 
Blair,  John  T.  Craigg,  James  Casner,  J.  M.  Creswell,  H.  M.  Childers,  Reuben  Fields, 
W.  R.  Fontain,  Nicholas  Feldwert,  T.  J.  Goe,  Ulysses  Garred,  G.  W.  Goodman,  A.  J. 
Hayden,  G.  W.  Hayden,  Richard  B.  Hays,  Martin  Humber,  T.  D.  Hintou,  J.  B.  Hen- 
derson, William  Hiester,  J.  M.  James,  John  C.  Lloyd,  William  Lambdeu,  Thomas 
McBee,  J.  K.  McCormack,  F.  M.  Mathews,  E.  Marple,  James  ]McCallister,  W.  A. 
Mulvaney,  Newton  Mulvaney,  L.  W.  Mulvaney,  John  McCullock,  John  ^Marshall,  S. 
jNIcConnell,  Thomas  Mulkey,  David  Nesley,  Edward  Necly,  Powell  Ownsley,  Cyrus 
Powers,  Thomas  Pyburn,  A.  Richards(jn,  Hiram  Richardson,  J.  M.  Richardson,  S.  V. 
Robinson,  J.  A.  Robinson  R.  II.  Randidl,  Joseph  Slover,  James  Spears,  M.  A.  Starr, 
S.  E.  Starr,  S.C.  Shannan,  William  Stringer,  William  Splan,  William  Skein,  Benjamin 
Trimble,Robert  G.Thompson,  J.  A.  Thompson,  P.  C.  Thompson,  William  S.  Turnlow, 
Evan  Taylor. 

Company  C  (Second  recruiting  battalion).— Mustered  in  March  2'.»,  at  Eugene 
Citv;  discliar-eil  Julv  :5,  1S5(;— Cai.tain,  1).  W.  Kcitli:   First  Lieutenant.  L.  ('.   Haw- 


292  INDIAN  WARS. 

ley;  Second  Lieutenant,  Jesse  Cox;  Sergeants,  H.  C.  Huston,  J.  E.  Kirkland,  James 
Siden,  George  Morris;  Corporals,  G.  H.  Baker,  John  Robinson,  Jesse  B.  Sitton,  S. 
Gardner;  Privates,  William  Allen,  J.  H.  Alexander,  T.  N.  Baker,  O.  Baird,  J.  T. 
Bowden,  J.  M.  Brown,  J.  M.  Brower,  J.  Bonser,  O.  Bates,  H.  A.  Coston,  A.  J.  Conard, 
D.  S.  Davis,  M.  Eecleston,  J.  M.  Gale,  J.  N.  Gale,  J.  C.  Gray,  Aaron  Gardner,  W. 
P.  (iardner,  J.  A.  Hays,  E.  Hammett,  J.  Hendricks,  Adam  Herbert,  P.  Higginbotham, 
Thomas  Harson,  Robert  Harson,  William  Hyde,  John  Hutchins,  A.  A.  King,  A. 
J.  Kirkland,  John  Jones,  B.  C.  Mciitee,  Samuel  Matheny,  J.  McClarnie,  L.  B. 
Munson,  S.  B.  Mathers,  Josiah  McBee,  S.  H.  McBee,  E.  L.  Masssey,  George  W. 
Miller,  B.  F.  Mounts,  Thurston  Pettj-johu,  J.  Robinson,  M.  Robinson,  J.  B.  Riley, 
C.  F.  Robberson,  W.  L.  Rogers,  M.  Smith,  W.  P.  Skinner,  C.  C.  Smith,  T.  B. 
Southworth,  J.  N.  Sharpe,  John  Skeen,  John  Taylor,  William  Taylor,  John  Taylor, 
John  Warner,  Benjamin  Zumwalt. 

Prathee's  Spy  Company, — Mustered  at  Deer  Creek,  March  6,  1856;  discharged 
May  15,  1856 — Captain,  Thomas  Prather;  First  Lieutenant,  Henry  Shrura;  Second 
Lieutenant,  John  Price;  Sergeant,  Edwin  Morgan;  Corporal,  T.  J.  Singleton; 
Privates,  Thomas  Anderson,  S.  Blakeley,  Andy  Chapman,  Josei^h  Embree,  William 
Eaton,  H.  Everman,  George  Finch,  J.  Fordyce,  J.  French,  I.  J.  Hinkle,  L.  Hale,  H. 
Hoskins,  G.  Lawrence,  R.  Long,  C.  C.  McClendon,  J.  S.  Noland,  M.  Nolaud,  Y. 
Oden,  A.  V.  Oden,  M.  Pervely,  J.  Simmons,  H.  Smith,  P.  YanSlyke,  E.  F.  Whist- 
ler, James  Watson,  Daniel  Walker,  Enoch  Wimberly,  Robert  Willis. 

Guess'  Minute  Company. — Mustered  at  Fort  Hay,  Illinois  valley,  May  1, 1856; 
discharged  June  20,  1856 — Captain,  John  Guess;  First  Lieutenant,  Asher  Moore; 
Second  Lieutenant,  Stephen  Coleman;  Sergeants,  B.  Kinchloe,  W.  J.  Cross,  W.  S. 
Gibbs,  John  McCord;  Corporals,  Peter  McClinchy,  F.  Sebastian,  E.  S.  Fite,  Alfred 
Dousitt,  Thomas  Arnett,  Edward  Evans,  F.  H.  Freeman,  A.  J.  Henderson,  C.  R. 
Hanaford,  James  Hope,  John  Heron,  Charles  Hook,  J.  A.  M.  Harned,  J.  Hamilton, 
U.  C.  Knight,  B.  Newman,  W.  Patterson,  N.  Pennaman,  D.  Post,  J.  D.  Post,  H.  A. 
Plummer,W.  Plummer,  E.  Mulkey,  J.  Miller,  Charles  Martin,  J.Mendenhall,S.  Mooney, 
P.  Mulkey,  John  McDowd,  J.  Kirby,  J.  R.  Reves,  Lenoir  Reves,  G.  L.  Reed,^V.  Ross,  M. 
Rothchild,  Harvey  Shaw,  George  Sing,  E.  Z.  Taner,  A.  P.  Turner,  F.  M.  Vliet,  G.  M. 
White,  J.  G.  Wood. 

Looking-glass  Guards. — Organized  April  12, 1856 — Captain,  Daniel  Williams; 
First  Lieutentant,  William  K.  Stark;  Second  Lieutenant,  AVilliam  Cochran;  Privates, 
James  M.  Arrington,  Samuel  W.  K.  Applegate,  Willis  Alden,  John  P.  Boyer,  Levi 
Ballard,  William  Cochran,  Roland  Flournoy,  Jr.,  Jones  Flournoy,  Samuel  S. 
Halpain,  John  H.  Hartin,  Nathaniel  Huntley,  Joseph  Huntley,  Daniel  Huntley^ 
Alexander  M.  Johnson,  Frederick  Mitchell,  Hilry  A.  Mitchell,  Franklin  Mitchell, 
Edmund  F.  McNall,  Ambrose  Newton,  Abbot  L.  Todd,  Franklin  White,  George  W. 
Williams,  Jefferson  Williams,  Milton  W.  AVilliams,  Peter  W.  Williams. 

(ioLD  Beach  Guards. — Mustered  March  13,  1856;  discharged ,  185(j — 

Captain,  Elisha  H.  Meservey;  First  Lieutenant,  Joseph  McVey;  Second  Lieutenant. 
Joseph  Griffith;  Privates,  W.  Allen  Thomas  Baker,  Frank  Bugy,  Joseph  Cruse,  C, 
Claser,  D.  R.  S.  Daley;  J.  L.  Garrett,  E.  A.  Lane,  Simon  Lundy,  S.  Monte,  John 
O'Regan,  August  Richards,  J.  W.  Svkes,  W.  Smith,  John  Thomas,  J.  K.  Vincent,  O. 
AV.  AVeam,  Fred  AVellor,  John  AVilson. 


INDIAN  WARS.  293 

Roll  of  thk  Ninth  Reulmext,  ()i:e(;(>x  MiLmA. — Colonel,  John  E.  Ross; 
Lieutenant-Colonel, Major, ;  Adjutant,  Charles  S.  Drew. 

Company  A. — Mustered  October  10,  1855;  discharged  November  26,  1855 — 
Captain,  T.  S.  Harris;  First  Lieutenant,  A.  M.  Berry;  Second  Lieutenant,  G.  W. 
Manvill;  Sergeants,  J.  M.  Sutton,  J.  L.  Ware,  John  Shooman,  Thomas  Hall; 
Corporals,  W^  C.  Butler,  O.  F.  Sanford,  William  Ornduff,  O.  P.  Brumby;  Privates, 
L.  F.  Allen,  R.  S.  Allen,  Charles  Armstrong,  B.  Burruss,  James  Bourk,  A.  Bethel, 
M.  C.  Barkwell,  A.  A.  Buzzell,  J.  B.  Coats,  J.  H.  Deadmond,  William  Daflin, 
William  Dorn,  J.  R.  Enos,  A.  C.  Funkhouser,  Louis  Furgason,  John  Gunn,  John 
Goldsby,  Thomas  Gill,  C.  B.  Hinton,  William  Hamilton,  William  Hay,  B.  G.  Henry, 
I).  W.  Helm,  A.  Helms,  William  Hand,  John  Johnson,  J.  M.  Johns,  Charles  F.  Kroft, 
Charles  Kimball,  L.  G.  LinviU,  Eli  Ledford,  J.  B.  Little,  F.  F.  Loche,  W.  I.  Mayfield, 
A.  J.  Nalin,  G.  S.  Nichols,  Robert  Opp,  Thomas  Ord,  William  Pernell,  J.  A.  Pedigo, 
Benjamin  Person,  William  Penington,  S.  Rathburn,  J.  M.  Raburn,  W.  C  Riggs, 
William  Smith,  S.  B.  Sorles,  Peter  Saling,  Samuel  Smith,  William  White,  John 
Winingham,  Martin  Wingood,  E.  Yager." 

Company  C. — Mustered  October  10,  1855;  discharged  November  21,  1855 — 
Captain,  Jacob  S.  Rinearson;  First  Lieutenant,  William  P.  Wing;  Second  Lieutenant, 
U.  L.  Woodford;  Sergeants,  Thomas  R.  Evens,  Daniel  Boone,  Elisha  M.  Reavis; 
Privates,  James  A.  Abbutt,  John  W.  Bucklis,  George  Brown,  Isaac  Bentley,  Peter 
Brown,  Rufus  H.  Bernan,  John  Billings,  William  Ballard,  John  Bankenship,  E.  C. 
Bray,  John  Casner,  John  Creighton,  Wm.  H.  Crouch,  Job  Denning,  Ichobod  Dodson, 
James  C.  Dickey,  F.  Duniway,Tomas  East,  John  Fortune,AVilliam  Geiney,  Clement  S. 
Glasgow,  R.  AV.  Henry,  A.  G.  Henry,  David  W.  Inman,  Charles  Johnson,  John 
Junker,  William  S.  King,  Martin  C.  Leslie,  Robert  Lang,  James  W.  Lanber,  William 
Lear,  John  G.  Minot,  Carick  G.  Minot,  Enoch  Miller,  George  B.  Miller,  Jacob  W. 
Miller,  John  McCasy,  Levi  Notte,  James  Pearcy,  John  V.  Pinkerton,  Robert  C. 
Percival,  William  B.  Phillips,  Jackson  Reynolds,  F.  M.  Roman,  John  Redfield, 
Samuel  P.  Strange,  B.  Sargeant,  Labin  Saunders,  Henry  Smith,  Charles  B.  Tooth- 
acher,  Francis  M.  Thibbits,  E.  N.  Thomas,  Samuel  Tillard,  William  F.  Woodford, 
Henry  Wisbrook,  George  Wood,  John  D.  Wright,  Ephram  Yager,  Henry  Yooum. 

Company  D. — Mustered  October  12,  1855;  discharged  November  9,',1855 — Cap- 
tain, R.  L.  Williams ;  First  Lieutenant,  E.  B.  Stone ;  Second  Lieutenant,  H.  O'Neal ; 
Sergeants,  G.  A.  Edes,  W.  J.  Mathews,  G.  Blake,  R.  :Moore;  Corporals,  R.  C.  Brewer, 
A.  Morse,  J.  Lee,  S.  Cornelius;  Privates,  B.  Armstrong,  M.  C.  Barkwell,  H.  H.  Bar- 
rett, M.  Baughman,  B.  B.  Brockway,  D.  Briggs,  J.  Cristy,  H.  K.  Covert,  J.  Cheney, 
N.  Courter,  J.  Curtain,  G.  Delaney,  A.  J.  Driskell,  J.  C.  S.  Davis,  J.  Dickerson,  G. 
Dinsmore,  J.  Dugdale,  J.  P.  Davidson,  M.  Emerich,  J.  J.  Elliotte,  H.  H.  Epps,  G.  R. 
Elliott,  A.  Fuller,  L.  Felton,  J.  P.  Frizzell,  R.  Gammill,  R.  Gaddis,  J.  C.  Graves,  L. 
Gates,  J.  Howell,  G.  Holten,  J.  R.  Hale,  S.  Hawkins,  J.  B.  Hutton,  S.  S.  Inman,  J. 
Jones,  J.  Kent,  C.  liOvel,  V.  Mullen,  John  Miller,  T.  Martin,  S.  R.  Myres,  S.  Alooney, 
M.  M.  Melvin,  T.  E.  McKoin,  V.  Neil,  J.  Parder,  M.  Parsley,  W.  B.  Previtt,  ^y.  Pen- 
ington, J.  Russel,  T.  Ryan,  W.  Showdy,  L.  Scoller,  ii.  W.  Sloan,  W.  Stannus,  H.  W. 
Stainton,  J.  Slates,  J.  Sohermerhurn,  W.  Toney,  J.  C.  Ward,  J.  Wilson,  J.  Winter,  C. 
Walker,  H.  Wilson,  J.  Woolen,  R.  Woods.  I).  M.  Yates. 


29i  INDIAN  WARS. 

Company  E. — Mustered  October  12,  1855 ;  discharged Captain,  William 

B.  Lewis  ;  First  Lieutenant,  William  A.  J.  Moore ;  Second  Lieutenant,  William  White; 
Sergeants,  John  G.  Adams,  Alex.  D.  McJess,  William  Gibson  ;  Privates,  Israel  D. 
Adams,  George  W.  Bramlet,  Milton  Blacklidge,  William  P.  Chesher,  John  Cooper 
W.  G.  Crandall,  J.  Collins,  John  G.  Butcher,  Allen  Evans,  I.  Elliott,  Harvey  Evans, 
John  Erixson,  John  W.  Gannaway,  John  Grosbois,  Joseph  McGahao,  Josephus 
Hosier,  Jacob  Hershberger,  Henry  S.  Jones,  Joseph  Umpqua,  Louis  Dunois,  Tiraoleon 
Love,  Edward  Neely,  James  Neely,  William  Pruitt,  J.  W.  Pickett,  John  Roberts,  E. 
D.  Smith,  Adam  Shough,  Christolier  Samuel,  Samuel  Sanders,  Benjamin  Tufts,  J.  L. 
Thompson,  Evans  Taylor,  Thomas  Wilson,  J.  E.  White,  George  Weeks,  Anderson 
Williams,  W.  R.  Walker,  A.  S.  Walker. 

Company  F. — Mustered  October  13,  1855  ;  discharged  November  13,  1855 — 
Captain,  A.  S.  Weltou ;  First  Lieutenant,  Angus  Brown ;  Second  Lieutenant,  V.  H. 
Davis  ;  Sergeants,  J.  C.  London,  John  Hultz,  David  Rathborn  ;  Privates,  George  W. 
Anderson,  M.  D.  Ballard,  Wm.  Barton,  J.  D.  Bennett,  S.  Butcher,  W.  N.  Ballard, 
Joseph  Copeland,  Joseph  Carter,  George  Cherry,  J.  J.  Charlton,  C.  A.  Charlton, 
J.  T.  Farley,  John  Finnin,  James  Hawkins,  J.  H.  Hasper,  John  Kennedy, 
Richard  Kelly,  Mellis  Kelly,  F.  F.  Locher,  J.  B.  Layton,  A.  J.  Long,  Isaac  Miller, 
N.  N.  Matlock,  W.  K.  Minot,  Edmund  Magruder,  J.  B.  Nichols,  J.  F.  Noland, 
Henry  Pearl,  John  Richards,  George  Ross,  Clinton  Schieffelin,  E.  Sharp,  John  Smith, 
James  Stewart,  David  Tompson,  Z.  Van  Orman,  Thomas  Warmon,  Charles  Williams, 
Stephen  Watson. 

Company'  G. — Mustered  into  service  Octol)er  11,  1855;  mustered  out  November  ■ 
10,  1855 — Captain,  Miles  F.  Alcorn ;  First  Lieutenant,  James  M.  Matney  ;  Second 
Lieutenant,  John  Osborn  ;  Sergeants,  S.  J.  Day,  Thos.  Bailey ,Thos.  Walker,  Thos.  Mc- 
Lain;  Corporals,  A.  W.  A.  McConnell,  Edwd.  Cose,  Saml.  C.  Nicholson,  Jas.  Tucker ; 
Privates,  Thomas  L.  Arnot,  Levy  Allison,  Caleb  Bailey,  Washington  Bailey,  David 
Butterfield,  Luzern  Bradley,  Squire  Bueher,  D.  N.  Birdseye,  F.  G.  Birdseye,  William 
Brockus,  Newman  Bartlett,  George  Black,  Henry  B.  Conroy,  Champion  Collier, 
William  Collier,  Wiley  Cash,  J.  K.  Colwell,  George  W.  Cherry,  John  Cose,  Thomas 
Coates,  Andrew  J.  Cooper,  Peter  Cook,  Freeman  Chandler,  George  E.  Chapel,  David 
Clemens,  Granderson  Curtis,  James  W.  Collins,  Edward  W.  Day,  William  Decker, 
James  F.  Davis,  Allen  Evans,  Menry  P.  Gordon,  Philip  GrifF,  Owen  Hojikins,  Demp- 
sey  Hamilton,  Simeon  Hardin,  O.  D.  Hoxie,  Moses  Hopwood,  Miller  Judd,  Richard 
Jones,  Isaac  B.  Kauflfman,  George  Long,  Jacob  Lswellen,  William  Lane,  Allen  B. 
Moser,  James  Miller,  David  Mall,  Constantine  Magruder,  Edmond  Magruder,  Benja- 
min McKeen,  Simeon  McFall,  Tomas  McBurney,  William  McClain,  Daniel  Newcomb, 
William  T.  Newcomb,  Martin  C.  Newcomb,  Ortegrel  C.  Newcomb,  Felix  O'Neal. 
William  Patterson,  James  M.  Patterson,  W.  B.  Philips,  Calvin  Paris,  A.  Jackson 
Rader,  Samuel  Reeder,  David  Ruminer,  Joseph  Swingle,  Benjamin  Snipes,  James 
Savage,  Clinton  Schieffelin,  P.  R.  Sanderson,  Hiram  Taylor,  Isaac  Vanderhorn,  John 
Wineland. 

Company  J. — Mustered  October  20,  1855  ;  discharged  November  16,  1855 — Cap- 
tain, Thomas  Smith;  First  Lieutenant,  John  R.  Helman  ;  Second  Lieutenant,  Turuey 
G.  Condrie ;  Sergeants,  Bennet  Million,  Robert  Hargadine,  Samuel  Clayton ;  Privates, 
William  Alevand,  John  Buckingham,  William  Bunyard,  Thomas  Barrett,  James  Bar 


INDIAN  WARS.  295 

rett,  John  A.  Eachman,  A.  Barr,  B.  F.  Davis,  Kichard  Evens,  Eber  Emery,  J.  Emery 
Asa  Fordise,  L.  C  Geary,  J.  A.  Harvey,  Jacob  Huffman,  A.  D.  Helmau,  Sol.  Holman, 
J.  M.  Johnson,  James  Kilgore,  Hard.  Knutzson,  W.  E.  Laynes,  William  Miller,  Jack- 
son Million, Masters,  Michael  Michealson,  W.  L.  Morris,  J.  M.  McCall,  William 

McCommon,  M.  Newhouse,  William  Pitinger,  John  Eoberts,  Ferdinand  Stiners,  Wil- 
liam F.  Songer,  David  Smith,  James  Toland,  John  Tucker,  William  Train,  Giles 
Wells,  John  Wise,  Isaac  Woolen,  John  Walker,  John  Watson. 

Company  K.— Mustered  October  1(3,  18o5j  discharged   November  21,   ISoo 

Captain,  S.  A.  Frye;  First  Lieutenant,  James  Hornbuckle;  Second  Lieutenant,  Thomas 
Moore ;  Sergeants,  Charles  Abraham,  John  Guess,  Christian  Tuttle ;  Privates,  James 
Ailsher,  Urban  E.  Bozarth,  Christian  Billafelt,  Joseph  Barker,  Michael  Boon,  T. 
Bozarth,  Abraham  Cole,  T.  DeHaven,  Charles  M.  Dwelley,  John  L.  Frye,  William 
Finch,  A.  W.  Foggy,  John  Gould,  J.  W.  Galbraith,  H.  Henspetei',  William  Heaverloe, 
Patrick  Haloran,  John  McGrew,  John  Meter,  Samuel  Parks,  Frank  Pierson,  Napoleon 
Ramsey,  James  M.  Roberts,  David  Sexton,  Peter  Snellback,  Seth  Smith,  Henry  Tomp- 
son,  A.  J.  Whitsette,  Charles  Ward,  Alex.  Watts,  J.  J.  Witter. 

Company  L. — Mustered  October  18,  1855;  discharged  November  21, 1855 — Cap- 
tain, Abel  George;  First  Lieutenant,  Thomas  Hays  ;  Second  Lieutenant,  Stephen  Betts; 
Sergeants,  J.M.  Cranmer,  J.  H.  Kirkpatrick,  W.  H.  Case,  T.  N.  Ballard;  Privates,  N. 

B.  Bond,  J.  W.  Chaffee,  William  Cogle,  G.  H.  Church,  A.  J.  Case,  A.  J.  Doty,  Wil- 
liam Elworth,  W.  L.  Freemon,  D.  Fousley,  A.  Gage,  A.  M.  Graham,  Thomas  Green- 
field, W.  Gerick,  C.  R.  Hicks,  Edwin  Heffs,  H.  Hawes,  F.  J.  Higginson,  A.  S.  Isaacs, 
R.  II.  Johnson,  J.  II.  Lamand,  Victor  Lychlinski,  Alexander  Lee.  James  Ogg,  J.  W. 
Pate,  Henry  il.  Richardson,  E.  H.  Richardson  John  Ragsdell,  Clinton  Stetson,  J.  M. 
Shaw,  George  Stout,  R.  L.  Smith,  J.  W.  Selby,  D.  W.  Van  IMai'tin,  George  C.  Van 
Landingham,  William  Warden. 

Company  N. — Mustered  October  26, 1855;  discharged  November  21,  1S55— Cap- 
tain, Orise  F.  Root;  First  Lieutenant,  J.  W.  Scott;  Second  Lieutenant,  Burde  P.  Pott; 
Sergeants,  C.  P.  Sprague,  Isaac  N.  Knight,  J.  W.  Pinnell,  J.  W.  Donning  ;  Privates, 
John  Axtell,  Thomas  Arnett,  D.  W.  Beckley,  J.  G.  Brious,  William  Brockus,  \.  J. 
Cutberth,  W.  W.  Cox,  James  W.  Doning,  J.  F.  Davis,  Robert  Duckworth,  H.  I)e(iraff, 
Bernard  Fisher,  John  Goings,  Z.  M.  Goodale,  J.  M.  Hay,  Jarvis  J.  Hay,  W.  M.  Hyde, 
A.  J.  Henderson,  William  Jump,  Isaac  N.  Knight,  James  Kelly,  T.  R.  Lawson,  Jacob 
Lewellen  J.  W.  Pattrich,  J.  W.  Pinnell,  W.  M.  Pollock,  Burd  Pott,  Calvin  Parris, 
Alexander  M.  Rainey,  G.  H.  Reeves,  J.  R.  Reeves,  John  Sargent,  Charles  F.  Sharp, 

C.  P.  Sprague,  J.  W.  Scott,  John  Twentyman,  A.  J.  Vincent. 

Company  — .  — Mustered  October  27  ;  discharged  November  Hi,  1855 — Captain, 
M.  P.  Howard;  First  Lieutenant,  Daniel  Richardson;  Second  Lieutenant,  H.  M. 
Conroy;  Sergeants,  Israel  T.  Mann,  G.  A.  Thomas,  John  Cathey,  Lycurgus  Bozarth  ; 
Corporals,  N.  J.  Walker,  Nicholas  H.Martin,  John  Cathey,  N.  R.  Mulvaney;  Privates, 
John  Bowers,  James  Black,  John  Burns,  Elzey  Bird,  William  Clemens,  Lozenzo 
Coppers,  Pulaski  Hall,  P.  H.  Harper,  Gill  Hultz,"Fli  Judd,  John  H.  Johnson,  Thomas 
Lake,  William  Lamson,  Joseph  Allies,  John  Mayfield,  James  McClenney,  David 
Phillips,  John  Price,  D.  F.  Perkins,  Jakob  Rounderbush,  Joseph  Steel,  Goldsmith 
Tear,  Georo-e  Toai-. 


INDIAN  WARS. 


CoMPAXY  — . — Mustered  October  10,  1855;  discharged  November  9,  1855 — 
Captain,  James  Bruce;  First  Lieutenant,  E.  A.  Rice;  Second  Lieutenant,  Joseph  F. 
Anderson;  Sergeants,  Ebenezer  Pinkham,  R.  R.  Gates,  Francis  Pickle,  John  Haley; 
Corporals,  George  W.  Collins,  Elijah  A¥illiams,  James  C.  Dickey,  John  B.  McBride; 
Privates,  Oliver  P.  Corbett,  Dennis  Crowley,  John  Coleman,  Lewis  Calhoun,  D.  R. 
Crocker,  John  C.  Cottrell,  Garret  Fitzgerald,  Charles  L.  Fee,  Daniel  F.  Fisher,  C.  C. 
Goodwin,  Aaron  Greenbaum,  James  Hayes,  E.  Hereford,  James  Hereford,  J.  F. 
Hamilton,  Alexander  Harris  ,William  A  .Hall,  Moses  H.  Hopwood,  John  N.  Lewis,  R. 
S.  Munn,  A.  H.  Matthew,  Nathan  Milton,  Chauncey  Nye,  Sylvester  Pease,  William 
Pasley,  William  Pengra,  Nathaniel  Rice,  August  Rumbel,  George  Stapper,  Samuel 
H.  Smith,  A.  R.  Smith,  John  W.  Short,  Bluford  Stanton,  Lewis  Sagers,  Alexander 
Thompson,  John  W.  Wood,  J.  H.  Wassum. 

Poet  Orfoed  Minute  Hex. — Mustered  March  26;  discharged  June  25,  1856 — 
Captain,  John  Creighton;  First  Lieutenant,  George  Yount;  Second  Lieutenant, 
William  Rollard;  Sergeants,  Nelson  Stevens,  Alexander  Jones,  Samuel  Yount, 
Thomjison  Lowe;  Corporals,  Peter  Ruffner,  John  Herring,  George  White,  Thomas 
Jamison;  Privates,  E.  Bray,  George  Barber,  Edward  Burrows,  Preston  Caldwell,  E. 
Cutching,  E.  Cunningham,  John  T.  Dickson,  George  Dyer,  Aai-on  Dyer,  H.  M. 
Davidson,  George  Dean,  Warren  Fuller,  Joseph  Goutrain,  Andrew  Hubert,  D  W. 
Haywood,  Josejih  Hall,  Thomas  Johnson,  Richard  Johnson,  T.  G.  Kirkpatrick, 
William  Taylor,  James  Malcolm,  L.  Parker,  James  Saunders,  Charles  Setler,  George 
P.  Sullivan,  Louis  Turner,  W.  W.  Waters,  Charles  Wiiislow,  William  White,  John 
Wilson. 

CoQViLLE  Guards. — In  service  from  November  6,  1855,  to  December  28,  1855; 
mustered  at  Fort  Catching — Captain,  W.  H.  Packwood;  First  Lieutenant,  J.  B.  Hill; 
Sergeants,  J.  G.  Malcolm,  Evan  Cunningham;  Corporals,  Charles  W.  Wood,  A.  "NV". 
Davis;  Privates,  George  Barber,  Isaac  Bingham,  William  Bagley,  J.  Bray,  E. 
Catching,  G.  J.  Cooper,  J.  J.  Cooper,  Preston  Caldwell,  William  Cooley,  F.  McCue, 
J.  B.  Dulley,  William  Duke,  Samuel  Darlington,  John  B.  David,  J.  A.  Harry, 
Abram  Huffman,  David  Hull,  Alex.  Jones, W.  H.  Jackson,  Benjamin  Tarrigan,  Henry 
Miller,  Lewellyn  Oliver,  A.  Pence,  R.  G.  Phillips,  William  Roland,  James  W.  Rooks, 
John  S.  Sweet,  Charles  Settle,  W.  Waters. 

In  this  enumeration  the  companies  of  Buoy,  Keeney,  Bledsoe,  Robertson,  Blakely 
and  Barnes  of  the  second  regiment,  and  of  Thomas  J.  Gardner,  M.  M.  Williams,  W. 
A.  Wilkinson,  W.  H.  Harris,""  Stephen  Coffin,  J.  G.  Powell  and  W.  S.  Buckley  of  the 
ninth  regiment  are  omitted  because  of  the  loss  of  their  muster-rolls.  The  total  strength 
of  the  two  regiments  is  shown  in  the  following  table,  which  sets  forth  the  number  of 
officers  and  men  in  service  on  the  twentieth  of  each  month  during  the  war  of  1855-6: 


liii 

a  g 

i  -1  - 

4  ;   4 

912     518 

3         2         2 
807     913     663 

326 

1  EAr-, 

217 
880 

7 
901 

_, 

~ 

Total    Force 

1,097 

908 

916     522 

810     915     665 

328 



-■ 

11-,. 


W.G.f  Vault. 


SOUTHERN    OREGON 


CHAPTER    XXX  \. 

DESCRIPTION,  CLIMATE  AND  EARLY  HISTORY. 

Extent  of  Southern  Oregon  -Forests  of  Timber— Supply  of  Water.  Fish  and  Game  -Climate  —Meteorological 
Statistics -Population— Early  History  -Smith  and  McLeod— Wilkes  Exploring  Expedition— The  Applegate 
Trail. 

The  district  which  by  coiumoii  acceptance  has  become  kuowii  as  Southern  Oregon, 
embraces  the  five  counties  of  Douglas,  Coos,  Jackson,  Josephine  and  Curry.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  ocean ;  on  the  south  it  borders  the  California  line ; 
the  Cascade  range  interposes  between  it  and  Eastern  Oregon ;  while  northwardly  the 
region  terminates  in  the  Calapooia  mountains  and  their  prolongations,  which  separate 
the  wafters  of  the  Willamette  from  those  of  the  Unipqua.  The  shape  of  Southern 
Oregon  roughly  approaches  a  square,  the  principal  divergence  being  in  its  north  side, 
which  runs  northwesterly.  The  coast  line  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long  ; 
the  southern  side  one  hundred  miles;  the  eastern,  or  mountain  boundary, about  eighty- 
five  miles ;  and  the  northern  side  of  the  quadrilateral  sometliing  near  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles.  Its  total  area  is  nearly  twelve  thousand  square  miles.  This  immense 
tract  is  divided  by  nature  into  two  large  and  many  small  valleys  separated  by  hills  and 
mountain  chains,  rendering  the  country  in  the  highest  degree  diversified.  The  larger 
valleys  are  those  of  the  Umpqua  and  Rogue  rivers — names  celebrated  in  the  history  of 
Oregon,  and  in  the  future  to  be  still  more  widely  known  as  the  abode  of  a  numerous 
and  fortunate  people. 

To  most  of  the  mountain  ranges  intersecting  tliese  valleys  names  have  been  given, 
and  particular  peaks  have  also  received  designations.  Thus  to  tlie  northeastward  the 
Calapooia  mountains  form  the  water-shed  which  separates  the  streams  fiowiug  into  the 
Umpqua  from  those  entering  the  Coast  Fork  and  the  Middle  Fork  of  the  Willamette. 
Blount  Thielsen,  or  Cow-horn  peak,  stands  near  the  point  of  intersection  of  tliat  range 
with  the  Cascade  mountains,  and  forms,  as  it  were,  the  keystone  of  the  whole  j-ange. 
This  remarkable  peak  attains  a  height  of  9,250  feet  and  bears  a  crown  of  snow  through- 
out the  year.  It  forms  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  objects  in  the  whole  range,  and  is 
in  some  respects  superior  to  Mount  Hood  although  its  height  is  more  than  2,000  feet  less. 
It  is  especially  remarkable  as  the  center  of  several  mountain  systems  which  uniting  at 
its  base  penetrate  we.-t,  north   and  snutli.     The   spurs  wliicli  trend  to  the  west,  north- 


298  SOUTHEEN  OEEGON. 

west  and  southwest  sink  down  as  they  proceed  until  they  are  lost  in  the  hills  of  the 
Umpqua  valley.  These  minor  ranges, spreading  like  a  fan,  inclose  pleasant  valleys  and 
deep  canyons  drained  by  clear  and  rapid  streams,  which,  rising  in  the  upper  regions, 
run  downward  toward  the  sea,  rapidly  at  first,  over  bowlders  and  precipices,  slower  as 
they  pass  through  winding  valleys  and  finally  approaching  and  ending  in  Umpqua 
and  Rogue  rivers.  In  the  mingled  mass  of  mountains  around  about  majestic  Theilsen 
a  number  of  important  rivers  have  their  birth.  Almost  at  its  base  gush  forth  waters 
which,  running  in  many  devious  courses,  seek  the  ocean  by  various  mouths.  Within 
the  shadow  of  the  mountain  lie  lakes  Crescent,  Odell  and  Diamond.  From  the  two 
former  proceed  streams  which,  flowing  onward  to  the  DesChutes  river,  keep  a  northerly 
course  and  reach  the  Columbia  above  The  Dalles.  From  Diamond  lake  rises  the 
North  Umpqua,  and  from  the  gorges  southwest  therefrom  the  South  Umpqua  takes  its 
rise,  the  two  rivers  to  come  together  in  the  pleasant  Umpqua  valley  and  enter  the 
ocean  after  flowing  a  generally  westerly  course.  Again  from  Summit  lake,  a  dozen 
miles  north  from  Theilsen,  the  Middle  fork  of  the  Willamette  springs,  and  after  join- 
ing the  main  stream  empties  into  the  Columbia  a  hundred  miles  from  the  ocean.  Close 
by  the  sources  of  the  Umpqua  and  springing  from  the  same  great  water  shed  which,  as 
we  have  seen,  nourishes  the  germs  of  so  many  rivers,  the  headwaters  of  Rogue  river 
rise,  and  find  their  way  down  by  devious  ways  to  the  ocean,  the  general  course  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  river  being  southwest.  Nor  does  this  list  comprise  all  the  streams 
which  have  their  birth  in  this  remarkable  region.  Certain  afiiuents  of  Klamath  river 
and  Klamath  lake,  namely.  Wood,  Seven-mile,  and  Annie  creeks,  head  in  these  moun- 
tains. Thus  the  waters  which  spring  forth  from  the  sides  of  Theilsen  and  the  neigh- 
boring peaks  flow  to  every  point  of  the  compass.  Before  their  course  is  run  and  they 
find  rest  in  the  Pacific  they  have  traversed  and  watered  the  most  fertile  valleys  of 
Oregon  and  Northern  California.  They  have  turned  the  wheels  or  borne  the  com- 
merce of  scores  of  counties  and  bestowed  blessings  upon  widely  different  localities.  The 
Rogue  and  Umpqua  rivers,  after  rising  almost  within  stone's  throw  of  each  other,  end 
their  courses  in  the  broad  Pacific  at  a  distance  of  over  ninety  miles  apart- 

As  seen  from  a  high  elevation  the  region  under  discussion  does  not  by  any  means 
jiresent  the  appearance  generally  accorded  to  it.  Instead  of  large  valleys  or  plains  of 
level  land  fringed  on  either  hand  by  the  Cascades  and  the  Coast  Range,  the  country 
consists  of  a  very  large  number  of  small  valleys  separated  by  mountain  ranges  of  various 
heights  and  drained  by  creeks  which  find  their  tortuous  way  into  the  two  principal 
streams.  The  separating  ranges,  instead  of  conforming  to  a  general  trend,  seem  to  fol- 
low no  fixed  rule  in  that  regard,  and  do  not  coincide  with  each  other  in  any  degree. 
Thus  the  country  is  exceedingly  broken  and  its  local  divisions  are  almost  innumerable. 
The  observer  would  be  particularly  struck  with  the  extent  of  the  forest-clad  surface. 
He  would  see  that  the  trees  cover  by  far  the  greater  part  of  the  entire  region,  only  the 
broader  valleys,  bottom  lands,  and  side-hills  being  to  any  extent  free  from  timber  and 
underbrush.  On  the  west  he  would  observe  the  extensive  system  of  the  Coast  Range 
covered  with  dark  forests  of  fir  which  extend  to  the  sea  coast.  On  the  eastern  boundary 
the  Cascade  mountains,  clothed  almost  to  the  summit  with  noble  forests,  cut  off  the 
view  in  that  direction. 


SOUTHERN  OREGON.  299 

Tlie  dividing  ridge  of  the  Cascades  lies  at  a  distance  of  nitlier  more  than  one  hun- 
dred miles  from  the  coast,  to  which  it  is  parallel.  The  Coast  Range,  which  also  follows 
approximately  the  ocean  line,  has  its  highest  summits  at  about  one-fourth  the  distance 
mentioned.  The  irregularity  of  the  latter  range  is  very  striking.  The  Umpqua  and 
Rogue  rivers  have  forced  their  way  through  the  solid  sandstone  mountains,  whose  preci- 
pices frown  over  their  waters.  The  height  of  the  Coast  Range  hardly  exceeds  one- 
third  that  of  the  snow  peaks  of  the  Cascades,  nor  is  its  base  spread  out  over  so  great 
an   area. 

The  country  lying  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Coast  Range  possesses  a  distinctive 
eliaracter.  Its  width  varies  from  five  to  thirty-five  miles,  according  to  the  trend  of  the 
mountains;  its  surface  is  much  broken,  and  is  divided  laterally  by  numerous  streams, 
whose  valleys  constitute  nearly  all  the  arable  land  of  this  narrow  strip.  The  climate  is 
oceanic,  a  moist  atmosphere  prevailing,  with  regular  sea  breezes.  Forests  of  fir,  laurel 
and  cedar  cover  almost  tlie  entire  surface.  The  rain  fall  is  greater  than  in  the  Umpqua 
and  Rogue  river  valleys,  and  the  temperature  more  equable.  Beginning  at  the  Cali- 
fornia state  line  and  proceeding  northward  along  the  coast  a  large  number  of  streams 
are  crossed,  rising,  with  the  exception  of  the  Rogue  and  Umpqua, among  the  hills  of  the 
Coast  Range. 

The  flora  of  Southern  Oregon  bears  distinguishing  characteristics.  Upon  the 
flanks  of  the  Coast  Range  and  the  country  lying  between  those  mountains  and  the  sea, 
exists  an  almost  interminable  forest  of  evergreen  trees — the  red  fir,  yellow  fir,  white  fir, 
red  cedar  and  the  white  cedar.  These  trees  grow  to  an  enormous  size  and  constitute 
an  almost  inexhaustible  store  of  the  best  quality  of  lumber.  On  the  eastern  slope  of 
the  range,  the  oak  takes  the  place  of  the  gigantic  conifers,  and  scattered  groves  of  these 
are  found  until  the  foothills  of  the  Cascades  are  reached,  when  the  fir  again  becomes 
abundant.  Here  it  is  associated  with  the  sugar  pine,  a  species  almost  unknown  to  the 
Coast  mountains.  On  the  Cascades  also  grow  the  oak,  juniper,  hemlock  and  spruce, 
but  in  smaller  quantities  than  the  former  trees.  Here,  also,  the  supply  of  timber  is 
very  great,  and  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  access,  is  practically  untouched. 

All  parts  of  this  great  and  interesting  region  are  well  watered.  Save  in  some  ele- 
vated regions  of  the  extreme  eastern  part,  hardly  a  quai-ter-section  of  land  but  possesses 
an  ample  supply  of  the  clearest  and  coldest  water  Numerous  streams  abound  and 
.springs  burst  forth  in  profusion.  In  these  mountain  streams  rove  vast  numbers  of  fish, 
the  mountain  or  brook  trout,  the  salmon  trout,  and  in  its  season  the  salmon,  being  the 
most  valuable  species.  The  woods  abound  in  game;  the  bear,  elk,  deer,  California  lion 
and  other  four-footed  animals  not  yet  extirpated  by  the  bullet  of  the  hunter,  remain  to 
furnish  excitement  for  the  sportsman  and  a  not  inconsiderable  supply  of  meat  to  settlers 
and  the  markets.  Smaller  animals  and  birds  lend  the  attraction  of  their  presence  to  a 
scene  of  woodland  peace  and  beauty. 

The  climate  of  Southern  Oregon  is  in  many  res[)ects  superior  to  tliat  of  any  otlier 
portion  of  the  coast.  With  an  ample  rainfall  it  stands  midway  between  the  continual 
drouth  of  Sacramento  valley  and  the  almost  perpetual  winter  rains  of  the  Willamette. 
Closed  in  by  mountain  chains,  it  is  not  swept  by  winds  heated  by  a  long  journey  over 
vast  stretches  of  level  land,  wliile  across  the  low  summits  of  the  Coast  Range  steal  the 
coolino-  breezes  from  the  sea.     Storms  can  not  reach  it  with  tlio  full   strengtii    of  their 


SOUTHERN  OREGON. 


power.  Protected  from  hot  winds  iu  summer,  and  in  winter  coming  within  the  influ- 
ence of  that  warm  ocean  river,  the  Japan  current,  which  so  modifies  and  tempers  the 
climate  of  the  coast  from  Alaska  to  Mexico,  the  climate  of  this  region  is  equable, 
agreeable  and  healthful.  With  a  natural  drainage  of  its  surface  that  renders  large 
areas  of  swampy  land  impossible,  this  region  is  never  afflicted  by  scourge  or  pesti- 
lence, nor  has  it  malaria  or  any  other  prevailing  disease.  It  is  a  land  where  fertility 
of  soil,  health  and  agreeableness  of  climate  and  beauty  of  scenery  conspire  to  make 
life  a  pleasure  to  the  well,  and  to  stimulate  the  invalid  with  renewed  vigor. 

Statistics  of  temperature  and  rainfall,  covering  any  extended  j)eriod,  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  obtain.  Until  a  station  of  the  United  States  signal  service  was  established  in 
Roseburg  in  1877,  no  organized  efibrt  was  made  in  this  direction,  and  individuals 
seem  to  have  been  too  much  engrossed  in  the  cares  of  business  to  give  attention  to  the 
subject.  We  have  only  the  record  kept  in  Rogue  river  valley  by  a  pioneer  of  that 
region,  extending  from  1854  to  1865,  and  the  reports  of  the  station  at  Roseburg  since 
its  founding  in  1877.     From  these  the  following  tables  have  been  prepared : 


COMPFLED  FROM  THE  RECORDS 

METEOEOLOGICAL     SUMMARY. 

OP  THE  UNITED  STATES  SIGNAL  STATION  AT  ROSEBURG 

OREGON. 

18T8. 

1879. 

1880. 

1881. 

188-i 

MONTHS. 

Thermora'trjR^aiu- 

The-mom-tr. 

Rain- 
fall. 
In  e. 

Thermom'tr. 

Rain- 
fall. 

lu's.: 

•^si 

Thermom'tr. 

Rain- 

Thermora-tr.|Rain- 

Ma^  Min 

i\rnjin's 

Max 

Min 

i 

7 

Mn 
42.1 

.Max 

Jlin 

17.5 
29 

-Mil 

;1 .  t, 
45!  5 

Mas 

57 

1 

Min 

r 

54 

Mn 

i 

j5.1 

lu>. 

-Ma.x 

M 

.M'n  lu's. 

January 

Febnian- 

March... 

65     28 
0.3      S3..5 
71     1:«  5 

7«.  :.!■.;« 

44    1  ».'.'< 
47.8   ;  :;i 
ol.4l  tl,::ii 
}1.1    ii.;:! 

i<<.^    2.55 
46.11  3.65 
38.1    2.73 

60 
56 

,'  '/ 

1  "       .  • 

-  ';   1  21 
■  i  1;  21 

T3..-i-Jii!.^ 

ie2..Mr-' 

September 

October 

November 

December 

5.79 
7.86 

76 

;     l.:5li 
.,  :,A_n 
:   1    1.1,1 
i.i.   (;.:,4 

Annual  Means 

,r6.8  33..6 

.51. ]| 

136.92 

75.4 

30.8 

52.2 

45.03 

r! 

30. 

50.b 

31.44 

' 

.     - 

Totals 

43.rai 

J 

134  77 

TABLE   OF   KAINFALL. 

COMPILED  FROM  A  PRIVATE  RECORD  KEPT  IN  ROGUE  RIVER  VALLEY. 


January. . . 
February . . 
March.... 

April 

May 

June 

J"iy 

August 

September . 

October 

November . 
December . 


Total . 


854.       1855.        1856.       1857.       I 


2.94 
•52 
1-34 
0.00 
1.48 
0.00 
2-35 


2.46 

3-04 


4-45 


2.09 
3-17 
2.2s 


3- IS 

3-5° 


859.   1S60.  ;  1861.   1862. 


2.07 
3-97 
1.73 

•75 
0.00 
0.00 


1-39 
1.06 
1.15 
1.02 
2.21 
1.74 
2.15 
.07 
■33 
1. 86 
2.75 
3-31 


4.66 
2.32 
1.94 


'.03 
1-13 
0.00 
0.00 
0.00 
•63 
7.82 
10. 1 1 


19.04  I  26.57   I  20.06 


1865. 


3.  IS 

•  23 

2.83 

1. 89 
1-95 
1.27 
0.00 
.10 
•45 
•37 
5.86 
12.09 


9.06 
4.06 

21.83 


*     First  six  months  of  1856  not  observed.  Average  for  ten  years,  23.18  inches. 

Within  the  bounds  of  Southern  Oregon  is  found  a  population  of  about  thirty 
thousand  souls,  pioneers  and  their  descendants,  who  redeemed  this  beautiful  region 
from  the  domination  of  savage  ti'ibes  and  brought  it  within  the  dominion  of  civiliza- 
tion. In  the  forty  years  of  its  history  much  has  been  accomplished.  The  primeval 
forests  have  been  leveled.  The  fire  of  many  a  domestic  hearth  burns  brightly  in  a 
land  which  not  many  years  ago  was  a  wilderness.     The  old  story  of  pioneer  life  is 


SOUTHERN  OREGON.  301 

repeated  here  on  this  western  shore  l)y  those  to  wliom  liardship  and  adventure  were  as 
second  nature.  Over  this  region,  now  fruitful  in  grain,  the  wihl  and  dehased  Indian 
once  roamed,  an  object  of  dread  and  danger.  Bloody  and  fierce  were  the  conflicts  he 
waged  against  the  superior  race,  fast  despoiling  him  of  his  heritage,  and  the  crimson 
history  of  war  attests  his  valor  and  stubbornness.  The  Indian  has  melted  away  before 
the  approach  of  the  Caucasian,  like  snow  beneath  a  noonday  sun.  Kude  domestic 
utensils,  and  the  arrow-heads  fallen  on  many  a  bloody  battle-field  remain  as  sole 
mementos  of  a  departed  race. 

The  history  of  Southern  Oregon  as  a  distinct  section,  aside  from  the  Indian  war 
already  related,  will  be  given  by  counties  and  localities,  the  annals  of  each  being- 
made  as  complete  as  possible ;  yet,  perhaps,  a  few  introductory  remarks  may  not  be 
out  of  place. 

The  progress  of  discovery  and  settlement  of  Oregon  has  been  fully  detailed  in 
the  preceding  pages.  The  few  facts  relating  especially  to  this  region  may  be  sum- 
marized as  the  landing  of  Sir  Francis  Drake's  pilot  [see  i^age  20]  ;  the  discovery, 
possibly,  of  the  mouth  of  either  the  Kogue  or  Umpqua  river  by  Martin  de  Aguilar  in 
1603  [see  page  30]  ;  the  destruction  of  Jedediah  S.  Smith's  party  and  the  passage 
through  this  region  of  the  first  Hudson's  Bay  Company  trapjjers  under  Alexander 
Roderick  McLeod  [see  pages  119  to  122].  From  that  time  forward  Southern  Oregon 
was  for  a  number  of  years  traversed  by  parties  of  Hudson's  Bay  Company  men,  passing 
to  and  from  the  rich  trapping  grounds  of  California,  or  setting  their  traps  for  beaver 
in  the  many  streams  of  this  region.  Fort  Umpqua,  in  Yoncalla  valley,  was  erected  by 
that  company  as  a  headquarters  for  operations  in  this  section.  In  1837  a  large  band 
of  cattle  was  driven  through  from  California  [see  pages  130  and  131],  and  other  bands 
subsequently,  while  annually,  beginning  with  1843,  emigrants  passed  backwards  and 
forwards  between  the  Willamette  valley  and  California. 

In  the  month  of  September,  1841,  a  detachment  of  the  celebrated  exploring 
expedition  of  Commodore  Charles  Wilkes  passed  through  this  region  on  its  way  from 
Vancouver  to  Yerba  Buena  (San  Francisco).  It  consisted  of  Lieutenant  George  F- 
Emmons,  in  command,  Past  Midshipman  Henry  Eld,  Past  Midshipman  George  W. 
Colovcoressis,  Assistant  Surgeon  J.  S.  Whittle,  and  thirty-four  others,  among  whom 
were  J.  D.  Dana,  the  celebrated  geologist,  and  a  number  of  emigrants  including  women 
and  children.  Their  impressions  of  the  country  are  recorded  in  United  States  Explor- 
ing Expedition,  Vol.  5,  from  which  the  following  facts  are  gleaned  : 

The  detachment  took  its  departure  from  Fort  Umpqua,  in  YoiicMJla  valley,  on 
the  eighteenth  of  September,  having  been  warned  by  Mr.  Garnier,  agent  in  charge, 
that  the  party  was  entirely  too  small  to  safely  traverse  the  l^mpqua.  Rogue  river  and 
Shasta  countries,  since  he  had  reliable  information  that  the  Indians,  who  were  well 
aware  of  their  approach,  were  massing  at  various  points  to  cut  them  oft'.  By  using 
the  utmost  prudence  and  diligence  and  permitting  no  strange  Indians  to  enter  the  camp, 
Lieutenant  Ennnons  conducted  his  party  safely  through  the  Umpqua  region  and  across 
the  Umpqua  mountains  to  Rogue  river  valley  and  camped  on  the  banks  of  ''  Rogues, 
or  Tootootutnas  river."  "  They  had  now"  says  the  report,  "  reached  the  country  of 
the  Klamet  Indians,  better  known  as  the  Rogues  or  Rascals,  wliieh  name  the}'  have 
ol)tained   fmm   the  hunters,   from   the  many   acts   of    villainy   they    liave   ]iractitrd." 


302  bOrTHERN  OKEGOX. 

Special  meutiou  is  made  of  the  place  on  Young's  creek  where  Dr.  Bailey  was  defeated, 
and  of  the  scene  of  Turner's  heroic  battle  on  Rogue  river.  These  places  were  no 
doubt  pointed  out  by  the  trappers  engaged  to  accompany  the  party,  and  the  story  of 
Turner's  combat  as  related  by  them  to  Lieutenant  Emmons  was  as  follows :  A  party 
of  nine  American  trappers,  some  of  them  accompanied  by  their  Indian  wives,  were 
encamped  on  the  river  one  day  in  1835.  They  had  heedlessly  permitted  large  num- 
bers of  Indians  to  enter  the  camp,  and  these  suddenly  fell  upon  the  whites,  killing  two 
of  them  and  wounding  the  others.  Turner,  who  was  a  powerful  man,  snatched  a 
brand  from  the  fire  and  disabled  several  of  the  assailants,  until  his  wife  brought  him 
a  rifle,  with  which  he  killed  a  number  of  the  Indians  and  drove  the  others  away. 
With  his  wounded  companions  he  managed  to  reach  the  settlements  in  the  Willamette. 
At  another  point  on  the  river,  where  the  report  says  that  Michael  Laframboise,  the 
California  leader  of  Hudson's  Bay  Company  parties,  had  been  twice  attacked,  the 
Indiaas  made  threatening  demonstrations  but  no  actual  attack.  On  the  twenty-ninth 
they  crossed  Siskiyou  mountain,  or  Boundary  ridge,  as  called  in  the  report.  Dense 
columns  of  signal  smoke  were  continually  observed,  announcing  their  approach  to 
tribes  in  advance.  Mention  is  made  on  the  ascent  of  Siskiyou  mountain  of  a  narrow 
defile,  and  of  a  party  of  fifteen,  which  was  "  defeated  here  by  the  Indians,  some  three 
years  ago.  One  of  their  number  was  killed,  and  two  died  of  their  wounds  on  the 
Umpqua,  whither  they  were  obliged  to  retreat,  although  they  had  forced  the  Indians 
back  with  great  loss."  This  refers  to  Ewing  Young's  cattle  company  in  1837,  [see 
page  130],  one  of  whom,  Tibbats,  was  in  Emmons'  party.  All  these  dangerous  places 
were  safely  passed,  and  the  party  crossed  into  California  without  molestation. 

In  1846  a  number  of  settlers  in  the  upper  end^of  Willamette  valley  explored  a 
route  for  an  emigrant  road  through  Southern  Oregon  to  Fort  Hall,  and  as  this  was  the 
first  effort  to  render  this  region  a^jproachable  for  settlers,  it  is  of  considerable  historical 
importance.  The  following  summary  of  the  passage  of  the  j^arty  from  the  Willamette 
to  Klamath  lake,  is  taken  from  a  diary  narrative  of  the  trip  by  Lindsay  Applegate, 
one  of  the  explorers.  Though  many  unimportant  paragraphs  and  sentences  are 
omitted,  the  language  used  is  all  that  of  the  venerable  pioneer.     The  narrative  says  : 

"  From  what  information  we  could  gather  from  old  pioneers  and  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  the  Cascade  mountains  to  the  south  became  very  low,  or  terminated 
where  the  Klamath  cut  that  chain ;  and  knowing  that  the  Blue  mountains  lay  east  and 
west,  we  concluded  there  must  be  a  belt  of  country  extending  east  toward  the  South 
pass  of  the  Bocky  mountains  where  there  might  be  no  vast,  lofty  ranges  to  cross.  So, 
in  1846,  we  organized  a  company  to  undertake  its  exploration,  composed  of  the  fol- 
lowing persons  :  Levi  Scott,  John  Scott,  Henry  Boggus,  Lindsay  Applegate,  Jesse 
Applegate,  Benjamin  Burch,  John  Owens,  John  Jones,  Robert  Smith,  Samuel  Goodhue, 
Moses  Harris,  David  Goflf,  Benit  Osborn,  William  Sportsman,  and  William  Parker. 
Each  man  was  provided  with  a  saddle  horse  and  a  pack  horse,  making  thirty  animals. 

"  A  i^ortion  of  the  country  we  purposed  to  traverse  was  at  that  time  marked  on 
the  map  '  unexplored  region.'  All  the  information  we  could  get  relative  to  it  was 
through  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Peter  Ogden,  an  officer  of  that  company, 
who  had  led  a  party  of  trappers  through  that  region,  represented  that  portions  of  it 
were  desert-like,  and  that  at  one  time  his  company  was  so  pressed  for  the  want  oi 


SOUTHERN  OREGON.  ;i03 

water  that  they  went  to  the  top  of  a  mountain,  filled  sacks  with  snow,  and  were  thus 
able  to  cross  the  desert.  He  also  stated  that  portions  of  the  C9untry  through  which 
we  would  have  to  travel,  were  infested  with  fierce  and  warlike  savages,  who  would 
attack  every  party  entering  their  country,  steal  their  trajis,  waylay  and  murder  the 
men,  and  that  Rogue  river  had  taken  its  name  from  the  character  of  the  Indians 
inhabiting  its  valleys.  The  idea  of  opening  a  wagon  road  through  such  a  country  at 
that  time,  was  scouted  as  preposterous.  These  statements,  though  based  on  facts,  we 
thought  might  be  exaggerated  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  their  own  interest, 
since  they  had  a  line  of  forts  on  the  Snake  river  route,  reaching  from  Fort  Hall  to 
Vancouver,  and  were  prepared  to  profit  by  the  immigration.  One  thing  which  had 
much  influence  with  us  was  the  fact  that  the  question  as  to  which  power,  Great  Britain 
or  the  United  States,  would  eventually  secure  a  title  to  the  country,  was  not  settled, 
and  in  case  a  war  should  occur  and  Britain  prove  successful,  it  was  important  to  have 
a  way  by  which  we  could  leave  the  country  without  running  the  gauntlet  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  forts  and  falling  a  prey  to  Indian  tribes  which  were  under  British 
influence. 

"  June  twentieth,  1846,  we  gathered  on  the  La  Creole,  near  where  Dallas  now 
stands,  moved  up  the  valley  and  encamped  for  the  night  on  ^Mary's  river,  near  where 
the  town  of  Corvallis  has  since  been  built. 

"The  next  morning,  June  twenty-third,  we  moved  on  through  the  grassy  oak 
hills  and  narrow  valleys,  to  the  North  Umpqua  river.  The  crossing  was  a  rough  and 
dangerous  one,  as  the  river  bed  was  a  mass  of  loose  rocks,  and,  as  we  were  crossing, 
our  horses  occasionally  fell,  giving  the  riders  a  severe  ducking. 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  twenty-fourth,  we  left  camp  early  and  moved  on  about 
five  miles  to  the  south  branch  of  the  Umpqua,  a  considerable  stream,  probably  sixty 
yards  wide,  coming  from  the  eastward.  Traveling  up  that  stream  almost  to  the  place 
where  the  old  trail  crosses  the  Umpqua  mountains,  we  encamped  for  the  night  opposite 
the  historic  Umpqua  canyon. 

"The  next  morning,  June  twenty-fifth,  we  entered  the  canyon,  followed  up  the 
little  stream  that  runs  through  the  defile  for  four  or  five  miles,  crossing  the  creek  a 
great  many  times,  but  the  canyon  becoming  more  obstructed  with  brush  and  fallen 
timber,  the  little  trail  we  were  following  turned  up  the  side  of  the  ridge,  where  the 
woods  w^ere  more  open,  and  wound  its  way  to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  It  then  bore 
south  along  a  narrow  backbone  of  the  mountain,  the  dense  thickets  and  the  rocks  on 
either  side  affording  splendid  opportunities  for  ambush.  A  short  time  before  this,  a 
party  coming  from  California,  had  been  attacked  on  this  summit-ridge  by  the  Indians 
and  one  of  them  had  been  severely  wounded.  Several  of  the  horses  had  also  been 
shot  with  arrows.  Along  this  trail  we  picked  up  a  number  of  broken  and  shattered 
arrows.  We  could  see  that  a  large  party  of  Indians  had  passed  over  the  trail  traveling 
southward  only  a  few  days  before. 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  twenty-sixth  we  divided  our  forces,  part  going  back  to 
explore  the  canyon,  Avhile  the  remainder  stayed  to  guard  the  camp  and  horses.  The 
exploring  i)arty  went  back  to  where  we  left  the  canyon  on  the  little  trail  the  day  before, 


3U4  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

and  returniug  througli  the  canyon,  came  into  caiuji  after  night,  reporting  that  wagons 
coukl  be  taken  through. 

"  Making  an  early  start  we  moved  on  very  cautiously.  Whenever  the  trail 
passed  through  thickets  we  dismounted  and  led  our  horses,  having  our  guns  in  hand 
ready  at  any  moment  to  use  them  in  self-defense,  for  we  had  adopted  this  rule,  never 
to  be  the  aggressor.  Towards  evening  we  saw  a  great  many  Indians  posted  along  the 
mountain  side,  and  now  and  then  running  ahead  of  us.  As  we  advanced  toward  the 
river,  the  Indians  in  large  numbers  occupied  the  river  bank  near  where  the  trail 
crossed.  Having  understood  that  this  crossing  was  a  favarite  place  of  attack,  we 
decided  as  it  was  growing  late,  to  pass  the  night  in  the  prairie. 

"  In  selecting  our  camp  on  Rogue  river,  we  observed  the  greatest  caution.  Cutting 
stakes  from  the  limbs  of  an  old  oak  that  stood  in  the  open  ground,  we  picketed  our 
horses  with  double  stakes  as  firmly  as  possible.  The  horses  were  picketed  in  the  form 
of  a  hollow  square,  outside  of  which  we  took  up  our  positions.  We  kept  vigilant  guard 
during  the  night,  and,  the  next  morning  could  see  the  Indians  occupying  the  same 
position  as  at  dark.  There  had  been  a  heavy  dew,  and  fearing  the  effects  of  the  damjj- 
ness  upon  our  fire-arms,  which  were  muzzle-loaders,  of  course,  and  some  of  them  with 
flint-locks,  we  fired  them  off"  and  re-loaded.  In  moving  forward  we  formed  two  divis- 
ions, wdth  the  pack  horses  behind.  On  reaching  the  river  bank  the  front  division  fell 
behind  the  pack  horses  and  drove  them  over,  while  the  rear  division  faced  the  brush, 
with  gun  in  hand,  until  the  front  division  was  safely  over.  Then  they  turned  about, 
and  the  rear  division  passed  over  under  protection  of  their  rifles.  The  Indians  watched 
the  performance  from  their  places  of  concealment,  but  there  was  no  chance  for  them  to 
make  an  attack  without  exposing  themselves  to  our  fire.  The  river  was  dee])  and 
rapid,  and  for  a  short  distance  some  of  the  smaller  animals  had  to  swim.  Had  we 
rushed  pell  mell  into  the  stream,  as  parties  sometimes  do  under  such  circumstances,  our 
expedition  would  probably  have  come  to  an  end  there, 

"  After  crossing,  we  turned  up  the  river,  and  the  Indians  in  large  numbers  came 
out  of  the  thickets  on  the  opjsosite  side  and  tried  in  every  way  to  provoke  us.  There 
appeared  to  be  a  great  commotion  among  them.  A  party  had  left  the  French  settle- 
ment in  the  Willamette  some  three  or  four  weeks  before  us,  consisting  of  French,  half- 
breeds,  Columbia  Indians  and  a  few  Americans ;  probably  about  eighty  in  all.  Pass- 
ing one  of  their  encampments  we  could  see  by  the  sign  that  they  were  only  a  short 
distance  ahead  of  us.  We  afterward  learned  that  the  Rogue  River?  had  stolen  some  of 
their  horses,  and  that  an  efibrt  to  recover  them  had  caused  the  delay.  From  our  camp 
we  could  see  numerous  signal  fires  on  the  mountains  to  the  eastward. 

"  On  the  morning  of  June  29th,  we  passed  over  a  low  range  of  hills,  from  the 
summit  of  which  we  had  a  splendid  view  of  Rogue  river  valley.  It  seemed  like  a 
great  meadow,  interspersed  with  groves  of  oaks  ■which  appeared  like  vast  orchards. 
All  day  long  we  traveled  over  rich  black  soil  covered  with  rank  grass,  clover  and  pea- 
vine,  and  at  night  encamped  near  the  other  party  on  the  stream  now  known  as  Emi- 
grant creek,  near  the  foot  of  the  Siskiyou  mountains.  This  night,  the  Indians  having 
gone  to  the  mountains  to  ambush  the  French  company  as  we  afterwards  learned,  we 
were  not  disturbed.     Here  our  course  diverged  from  that  of  the  other  company,  they 


m 


tm^ 


1 

^p' 

Si 

Iv 

i^ 

f  " 

3.- 

1 

tS 

: 

f    ' 

u 

-, 

SOUTHERN  OREGON  305 

following  the  old  California  trail  across  the  Siski^-on,  while  our  route  was  eastward 
through  an  unexplored  region  several  hundred  miles  in  extent. 

"  Spending  most  of  the  day  in  examining  the  hills  about  tlie  stream  now  called 
Keene  creek,  near  the  summit  of  the  Siskiyou  ridge  we  moved  on  down  through  the 
heavy  forests  of  pine,  fir  and  cedar,  and  encamped  early  in  the  evening,  in  a  little  val- 
ley, now  known  as  Round  prairie.  On  the  morning  of  July  1st,  being  anxious  to  know 
what  we  were  to  find  ahead,  we  made  an  early  start.  This  morning  we  observed  the 
track  of  a  lone  horse  leading  eastward,  thinking  it  had  been  made  by  some  Indian 
horseman,  on  his  way  from  Rogue  river  to  the  Klamath  country,  we  undertook  to  fol- 
low it.  This  we  had  no  trouble  in  doing,  as  it  had  been  made  in  the  spring,  while  the 
ground  was  damji  and  was  very  distinct,  until  we  came  to  a  very  I'ough  rocky  ridge 
where  we  lost  it. 

"  The  next  day,  July  ord,  we  again  traveled  northward,  further  than  before,  mak- 
ing a  more  complete  examination  of  the  country  than  we  had  previously  done,  and  at 
last  found  what  seemed  to  be  a  practicable  pass.  Near  this  was  a  rich  grassy  valley 
through  which  ran  a  little  stream,  and  here  we  encamped  for  the  night.  This  valley 
is  now  known  as  Long  prairie. 

"  After  crossing  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  ridge,  the  descent  was,  in  places,  very 
rapid.  At  noon  we  came  out  into  a  glade  where  there  was  water  and  grass  and  from 
which  we  could  see  the  Klamath  river.  After  noon  we  moved  down  through  an 
immense  forest,  principally  of  yellow  pine,  to  the  river,  and  then  traveled  up  the  north 
bank,  still  through  yellow  pine  forests,  for  about  six  miles,  when  all  at  once  we  came 
out  in  full  view  of  the  Klamath  country,  extending  eastward  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  It  was  an  exciting  moment,  after  the  many  days  spent  in  the  dense  forests  and 
among  mountains,  and  the  whole  party  broke  forth  in  cheer  after  cheer."  [For  the 
conclusion  of  this  expedition  the  reader  is  referred  to  page  148  of  this  volume,  and 
for  the  contemporaneous  visit  of  Fremont  to  page  187.] 

Such  are  the  material  events  of  Southern  Oregon  prior  to  its  settlement,  and  the 
l)lan  of  this  work  does  not  embrace  any  further  generalization  of  events.  The  details  of 
occurrences  and  early  settlements  will  be  found  carefully  arranged  by  counties  and 
recited  in  the  history  of  the  special  locality  in  which  they  occurred. 


JACKSON   COUNTY. 

CHAPTER     XXXVI. 

GEOGRAPHY    OF    JACKSON    COUNTY. 

Jackson  County— Its  Situation  and  Boundaries— Extent  of  Surface  -Diversity  of  Scenery— Mountain  Ranges— 
The  Country  a  Basin— Mt.  Pitt— Crater  Lake— The  Upper  Rogue  River-  Rogue  River— Origin  of  Name- 
Smaller  Streams— Bear  Creek  Valley. 

Jackson  coimty  occupies  a  position  on  the  southeastern  au,2;le  of  Southern  Oregon, 
and  comprises  about  two-sevenths  of  the  aggregate  area  of  that  division  of  the  state. 
In  form  it  is  nearly  square,  and  its  boundaries  are  mainly  composed  of  straight  lines, 
which  have  directions  towards  the  cardinal  points.  More  minutely,  the  southern 
boundary — co-incident  with  the  northern  boundary  of  California — is  forty-eight  miles 
long  and  runs  due  east  and  west.  The  eastern  boundary,  dividing  Jackson  and  Klam- 
ath counties,  is  ninety  miles  in  length,  and  its  direction  is  north  and  south,  or  making 
a  right  angle  with  the  southern  boundary.  The  northern  boundary  separates  Jackson 
from  Douglas  county,  and  follows  the  summit  of  the  high  land  or  divide  between  the 
Rogue  river  and  South  Umj)qua,  having  a  curved  course  bending  southwesterly.  The 
fourth  side  of  the  square  is  formed  by  the  boundary  between  Josephine  and  Jackson, 
and  is  an  arbitrary  and  broken  line,  made  up  of  three  straight  lines  which  coincide 
with  township  boundaries.  This  dividing  line  measures  fifty-one  miles  in  length,  and 
terminates  on  the  California  line  at  the  point  where  Jackson,  Josephine  and  Siskiyou 
counties  meet.  All  these  boundaries,  excepting  the  western,  although  the  eastern  and 
southern  are  straight  lines,  conform  very  closely  to  natural  lines  of  division.  As  for 
the  southern,  it  follows  the  course  of  the  lofty  Siskiyou  range,  which  naturally  sepa- 
rates Oregon  from  California ;  on  the  east  the  water-shed  between  the  Rogue  river 
basin  and  the  Klamath  lake  region  approximates  with  the  separating  line  of  Klamath 
and  Jackson  counties  ;  northwardly,  nature  has  built  up  the  Canyon  mountains  as  a 
barrier  between  the  Rogue  river  and  Umpqua  regions,  and  man  has  accepted  them  as 
marking  the  political  divisions  of  the  two  counties. 

To  recai^itulate  :  Douglas  county  lies  on  the  north  of  Jackson,  Klamath  on  the 
east,  Josephine  on  the  west,  and  Siskiyou  county,  California,  on  the  south.  The  area 
of  Jackson  county  is  approximately  3,000  square  miles,  or  to  be  more  precise,  contains 
the  equivalent  of  eighty-one  townships  of  thirty-six  square  miles  each,  or  2,916  square 
miles.  Rendered  in  acres  this  is  equal  to  no  less  a  number  than  1,866,240 — an  area 
not  far  short  of  the  size  of  Connecticut,  and  nearly  twice  that  of  Rhode  Island. 

Within  this  large  tract  is  a  great  diversity  of  land  and  scenery.  The  whole 
region  is  broken  up  into  valleys,  and  mountain  and  hill  ranges,  adown  or  between 
which  flow  streams  which  find  their  way  to  the  Rogue  river.  ExcejJting  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  southeastern  corner  of  the  county,  all  its  waters  make  their  way  to  that 
stream,  tributary  to  it,  as  all  their  valleys  are  tributary  to  the  central  valley  of  the 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  307 

Eogue  river.  The  word  basin  describes  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  ;  all  around, 
excepting  upon  its  western  border,  lie  lofty  mountain  ranges  hemming  in  the  valley  of 
the  Rogue  as  with  a  wall.  On  the  south  the  Siskiyou,  on  the  east  the  Cascades,  on  the 
north  the  Canyon  mountains,  form  majestic  barriers  to  isolate  the  basin  of  the  Rogue 
river.  The  highest  jwint  of  these  natural  bulwarks  approaches  9,000  feet.  Mount 
Pitt,  otherwise  called  McLaughlin,  lying  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  eastern  boundary, 
has  been  accredited  with  a  height  of  9,250  feet,  or  the  same  altitude  as  Mount  Thiel- 
sen  (known  to  the  people  of  Jackson  county  as  Diamond  peak,  but  called  by  moun- 
taineers Cow-horn  peak),  which  lies  a  few  miles  beyond  the  northeasternmost  point  of 
Jackson  county.  At  the  foot  of  Thielsen  heads  Rogue  river  ;  which,  pursuing  its  pre- 
cipitous way  southwestward  between  steep  mountain  sides  forming  a  stupendous  canyon, 
runs  on  to  the  wide  valley  below,  where  the  mountains  sink  into  hills  and  finally  are 
lost  at  the  junction  of  many  streams.  Rising  at  an  altitude  of  over  6,000  feet  the 
Rogue  pursues  its  tortuous  course  for  a  hundred  miles  before  passing  the  boundaries  of 
Jackson  county,  and  in  that  distance  arrives  at  a  level  of  about  1,000  feet  above  tide- 
water as  it  enters  Josephine  county.  The  altitude  then  of  the  lowest  point  in  Jackson 
county  may  be  taken  as  1,000  feet,  this  point  being  a  short  distance  below  Grant's 
Pass,  on  the  extreme  western  edge  of  the  county.  The  utmost  depth  of  the  basin  of 
Rogue  river,  accordingly  reaches  3,000  feet  if  we  assume  4,000  feet  as  the  least  altitude 
of  the  wall  of  mountains  which  surrounds  the  basin,  and  the  estimate  is  doubtless  cor- 
rect with  respect  to  all  but  those  mountains  which  lie  to  the  northwest,  which  may 
fall  somewhat  short  of  these  figures. 

Thus  far  no  exact  determinations  of  altitude  have  been  undei'taken  with  respect 
t(»  the  mountains  of  Southern  Oregon.  The  railroad  people  have  indeed  surveyed  the 
points  whicli  lie  upon  their  route,  and  private  surveyors  have  reported  upon  the 
heights  of  many  points  upon  county  and  other  roads;  but  no  exact  scientific  measure- 
ments have  been  undertaken  as  to  the  higher  summits  of  the  Cascades.  From  the  notes 
of  engineers  who  have  surveyed  the  California  and  Oregon  boundary  line,  we  take  the 
following  excerpts : 

"  The  line  traverses  Lower  Klamath  lake  thirteen  miles ;  thence  ascending  a  very 
broken,  rough  and  timbered  country  it  crosses  Klamath  river  at  a  point  104^^  miles 
from  the  ocean;  it  then  takes  over  high,  rocky  mountains  cut  by  the  deep  canyons  of 
Long  Prairie  and  Jenny  creeks,  between  which  two  streams  it  reaches  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  eastern  boundary  of  Jackson  county  at  a  point  ninety-eight  miles 
from  the  Pacific  ocean.  At  seventy-nine  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Pacific  it  crosses 
the  Oregon  and  California  stage  road,  just  north  of  Cole's  station.  Thence  ascending 
to  the  summit  of  the  Siskiyou  range,  and  leaving  the  Hungry  creek  mines  in  Cali- 
fornia, the  line  crosses  the  head  of  Applegate  valley,  leaving  the  southwestern  corner 
of  Jackson  county,  M-hich  is  just  fifty  and  one-half  miles  from  the  Pacific.  Thence 
passing  over  exceedingly  rugged  mountains  it  continues  five  miles  south  of  the 
Althouse,  and  crosses  the  Illinois  river  at  the  junction  of  its  forks,  and  three  miles 
.south  of  Waldo.     This  point  is  twenty -eight  miles  from  the  Pacific." 

The  Siskiyou  chain  attain  a  lofty  height,  being  piled  up  quite  to  the  line  of 
l)erpetual  snow.  These  elevations  exceed  in  altitude  any  summit  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  are  only  second  to  the  majestic  Cascades  themselves.   Their  aspect  is  rugged 


308  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

ill  the  extreme.  Huge  cliifs  to\Yer  aloft,  the  maiu  range  sends  forth  many 
off-shoots,  and  profound  canyons  penetrate  its  dense  recesses.  Over  this  grand 
wall  of  granite,  sandstone  and  basalt  a  wagon  road,  projected  early  and 
begun  in  1849,  passes,  to  accommodate  travel  between  California  and  Oregon. 
A  few  miles  west  of  the  road  Pilot  rock  towers  aloft,  a  column-like  mass  of 
basalt,  a  thousand  feet  high  and  barely  half  that  in  diameter  at  its  base.  A  noted 
landmark  this,  and  known  and  noticed  since  the  earliest  times.  On  the  sides  of  the 
range  and  perhaps  a  mile  in  elevation  above  the  present  sea  level,  sea  shells  are  found, 
a  never-ceasing  source  of  wonder  to  the  observer,  whose  cogitations  find  vent  in 
repeating  the  truism  that  "the  sea  must  have  covered  the  whole  country  in  early 
times."  Mineral  sj)rings,  thermal  springs  and  springs  of  water  of  supposed  medicinal 
qualities  abound.  Soda  springs  of  great  capacity  exist  and  a  "health  resort"  of  wide 
celebrity  may  be  expected  to  ensue  in  future. 

The  eastern  boundary  of  the  Rogue  river  basin  is  composed  as  already  hinted,  of 
the  summits  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  This  stupendous  range  it  will  be  observed, 
extends  north  and  south  and  divides  the  basin  of  Klamath  lake  from  the  country 
tributary  to  Rogue  river.  Approaching  Klamath  river  the  vast  bulwark  of  hills  and 
mountains  sinks  gradually  until  its  greatest  elevation,  instead  of  presenting  the  aspect 
of  a  mountain  range,  is  simply  a  plateau  whose  streams  course  indifferently  to  the  east 
or  west.  Its  height  is  about  4,000  feet;  its  surface  is  mainly  covered  with  prairies  and 
open  glades.  This  portion,  mainly  inhabited  by  a  few  cattle-raisers  and  herdsmen,  is 
of  some  agricultural  value,  and  is  capable  of  supporting  the  flocks  and  herds  of  quite  a 
population. 

Further  north  rises  the  majestic  cone  of  Pitt — the  Mont  Blanc  of  Southern 
Oregon.  Its  summit,  coated  with  the  unmelted  snow  of  ages,  rears  itself  aloft,  an 
enduring  landmark  to  the  people  of  two  counties.  Few  scenes  partake  so  much  of 
sublimity  as  the  view  of  the  white  summit  of  this  grand  mountain  outlined  against  the 
clear  sky  of  that  elevated  region.  All  its  neighboring  summits  are  dwarfs  in  compari- 
son, and  for  a  hundred  miles  on  either  hand  no  rival  rises.  In  form  the  huge  j^eak  is 
more  nearly  faultless  than  any  other  in  the  Cascades  or  Sierra  Nevada,  only  St.  Helens 
being  worthy  of  comparison  with  it  in  this  respect.  The  usual  asperities  of  mountain 
peaks  are  absent  here,  where  a  symmetrical  cone  rises  through  the  clear  sky,  covered 
Avith  snow  and  belted  beneath  by  a  zone  of  ever-green  trees,  scattered  in  the  upper 
regions  but  growing  more  and  more  thickly  toward  the  base,  and  where  the  mountain 
broadens  out  into  the  plateau,  merging  into  a  gloriously  dense  and  majestic  forest. 

But  grand  and  imposing  as  Pitt  is,  nature  has  set  near  it  a  rival  wonder  more 
remarkable  and  more  unique.  Indeed,  in  point  of  uniqueness  it  is  unrivalled  upon 
the  known  face  of  the  earth.  This  is  Crater  lake,  of  which  those  who  have  seen  it 
have  borne  away  recollections  never  to  be  erased.  The  pen  and  pencil  of  manj'  visi- 
tors have  been  busy  with  its  description  and  photographs  have  aided  to  afford  an 
accurate  conception  of  the  glories  of  this  tremendous  work  of  nature.  One  who  saw  it, 
wrote:  "The  greatest  curiosity  of  this  region  and  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  whole 
northwest,  is  Crater  lake,  in  the  very  summit  of  the  Cascades,  seventy-five  miles 
ni;rtheast  of  Jacksonville.  Its  remoteness  from  the  usual  routes  of  travel  has  kept  it 
in    comparative  seclusion;   but  more  are  attracted  hither  yearly,  and  it  will,  in  the 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  309 

future,  be  one  of  the  regular  objects  visited  by  tourists  iu  this  region.  It  has  been 
variously  known  as  Blue  lake,  Deep  lake  and  Lake  Majesty,  but  the  more  appropriate 
title  it  now  bears  will  no  doubt  remain  with  it  forever.  In  approaching  the  visitor 
suddenly  finds  himself  upon  the  edge  of  a  tremendous  precipice,  and  looking  across  a 
wide  stretch  of  water  that  lies  far  beneath.  The  shores  vary  from  1,500  to  8,000  feet 
in  height.  To  be  critical,  there  is  no  shore,  for  only  at  one  point  can  a  sure-footed 
person  descend  the  cliff  to  the  lake  level,  and  when  there  the  presence  of  a  few  boul- 
ders and  some  fallen  debris  is  all  that  indicates  a  shore.  The  waters  are  wide,  deep 
and  silent.  It  is  seldom  that  a  breeze  disturbs  them,  but  at  moments  a  wierd  breath 
moves  softly  along  and  breaks  the  calm  surface  into  ripples.  Looking  across  from  the 
surrounding  wall  the  sky  is  seen  so  perfectly  reflected  in  the  water  that  were  it  not  for 
the  rocky  margin  of  the  lake  it  would  be  impossible  to  discern  the  line  of  division.  The 
circumference  is  more  than  twenty  miles,  and  the  altitude  of  its  surface  as  great  as  the 
summit  of  the  pass  over  the  mountains.  On  the  outside  the  steep  walls  shelve  off  into 
mountain  ridges,  wooded  to  the  top;  on  the  inside  they  stand  almost  perpendicular, 
looking  down  forever  on  the  captive  sea. 

In  the  early  years,  before  the  wide  scope  of  country  to  the  east  was  covered  up 
with  lava  and  ashes,  there  must  have  stood  here  one  of  the  grandest  mountains  of  the 
world.  How  immense  this  great  volcano  must  have  been  can  be  imagined  when  it  is 
realized  that  these  walls  that  now  stand  from  7,500  to  9,000  feet  high,  are  only  the 
shell  of  the  mountain  as  it  once  existed.  With  a  base  of  twenty  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, at  a  height  of  7,000  feet,  what  must  have  been  the  altitude  of  the  cone  that  was 
reared  above  it?  Beside  it  Hood,  Shasta  and  Tacoma  would  hide  their  diminished 
heads.  That  such  a  mountain  once  stood  here  as  an  active  volcano  can  not  be  doubted. 
The  country  to  the  east  for  many  square  miles  is  buried  beneath  ashes,  pumice  and 
volcanic  scoria.  To  the  terrible  convulsions  of  nature,  those  miles  of  desolation,  those 
rocky  walls  and  this  vast  crater  bear  witness.  In  the  midst  of  the  lake  rises  a  perfect 
but  extinct  volcano,  at  least  1,500  feet  iu  height,  its  sides  fringed  with  a  stunted 
growth  of  hemlock.  The  lava  flowing  from  this  has  made  an  island  in  the  lake  at 
least  three  miles  long.  The  cone  has  a  dish-like  depression  in  its  apex,  which  shows 
where  once  its  crater  was,  and  into  which  one  can  look  from  a  position  on  the  bluffs 
above.  The  period  of  the  first  great  eruption  was  followed  by  a  season  of  rest  and  then 
a  second  eruption,  during  which  the  small  cone  was  formed  by  the  final  effort  of  the 
expiring  forces.  Burning  lava  fiowed  fiercely  down  its  sides,  where  now  the  dwarfed 
hemlock  has  gained  a  precarious  foothold  and  seeks  to  hide  its  ugliness  beneath  a 
mantle  of  vegetation. 

The  Indians  view  Crater  lake  and  its  surroundings  as  holy  ground,  and  apj)roach 
it  with  reverence  and  awe.  It  is  one  of  the  earthly  spots  made  sacred  by  the  presence 
of  the  Great  Spirit,  and  the  ancient  tribal  traditions  relate  many  mysterious  incidents 
in  connection  with  it.  In  the  past  none  but  medicine  men  visited  Lt,  and  when  one  of 
the  tribe  felt  called  upon  to  become  a  teacher  and  healer,  he  spent  several  weeks  on  the 
shore  of  the  lake  in  fasting,  in  connuunion  with  the  dead,  anil  in  prayer  to  the 
Shahullah  Tyee.  Her(>  they  saw  visions  and  dreamed  dreams,  and  when  they 
came  down  from  the  mountain,  like  Moses  from  Sinai,  they  were  looked  up  to  with 
reverence  as  having  communed  with  the  Great  Spirit,  and  seen  the   unknown   world." 


310  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

Another  writer,  more  liowerv  aud  voluuiiuous,  published  iu  the  State  Line  Herald 
his  impressions  of  a  trip  to  the  wonderful  lake,  which  are  here  reproduced  as  contain- 
ing much  valuable  information  of  the  country  through  which  the  traveler  passes  on 
his  way  to  the  lake.  The  most  usual,  and,  in  fact,  the  only  route  from  the  inhabited 
portion  of  Jackson  county,  lies  along  the  Rogue  river,  passing  up  that  stream  for 
many  miles.  The  story  of  the  journey  is  thus  told:  Some  there  are  who  have 
traversed  the  Alps  and  the  Appenines,  have  visited  Yosemite  and  Tahoe,  only  to  stand 
entranced  on  the  brink  of  this  once  mighty  cauldron  and  look  with  silent  awe  into  its 
awful  depth;  or,  turning,  view  with  rapture  the  beautiful  landscape  spread  out  like  a 
map  below  and  around  them.  The  roads  leading  to  this  wonderful  spot,  too,  are 
fruitful  of  other  treats  in  the  rugged  grandeur  of  this  picturesque  range.  The  best 
time  for  visiting  Crater  lake  is  in  the  month  of  August,  before  the  snows  of  autumn 
come  to  block  the  way,  or  her  frost  to  bite  the  wanderer,  or  blight  the  verdure  so  near 
these  lofty  summits.  The  location  of  the  spot  we  seek  is  twenty-five  miles  in  a 
northerly  direction  from  Fort  Klamath,  near  the  northwest  border  of  Lake  county, 
Oregon,  and  is  directly  on  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  range,  at  an  elevation  of  9,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Leaving  the  California  and  Oregon  stage  line  at  Jack- 
sonville or  Ashland,  in  Rogue  River  valley,  having  first  provided  ourselves  with  all  the 
necessary  accoutrements  and  paraphernalia  for  camp  and  mountain  travel,  we  start  in 
a  northerly  direction  for  the  banks  of  Rogue  river.  The  Rogue  river  road  to  Fort 
Klamath  is  a  reasonably  good  one  at  this  season  of  the  year,  and  will  bear  us  within 
three  or  four  miles  of  the  lake,  which  is  about  ninety  miles  distant  from  our  starting 
point. 

'•'  Having  reached  and  crossed  the  river  at  Hannah's  ferry,  we  turned  our  course 
up  stream.  As  we  move  on,  the  valley  grows  narrower  and  farms  and  farm  houses  are 
fewer,  while  the  rapid  river  grows  swifter,  the  forest  denser  aud  more  rugged.  Fifty 
miles  of  our  journey  brings  us  to  'the  bridge.'  Here  the  river  has  narrowed  to  seventy- 
five  feet  in  width  and  runs  with  fearful  rapidity  between  steep  and  rocky  banks.  In  a 
distance  of  one  and  a  half  miles  from  this  point  the  river  falls  300  feet  and  passes 
through  a  deep  gorge  in  the  mountains,  rushing  at  times  down  a  steep  declivity,  then 
leaping  impetuously  from  rock  to  rock,  lashing  itself  into  fury  and  foam,  whirling  in 
eddies  or  resting  a  moment  in  some  protected  basin  before  jDlunging  fifty  feet  with  a 
rush  and  roar,  only  to  repeat  the  same  wild  ^ahantasies  as  it  rolls  wildly  on  to  the  ocean. 
Ere  reaching  the  foot  of  the  first  rapids,  the  roar  of  the  mighty  waters  in  the  distance 
rises  above  the  din  of  those  at  our  feet,  aud  moving  as  rapidly  as  the  character  of  the 
country  will  permit,  w^e  discover  through  the  trees  the  snowy  foam  of  the  great  tails  or 
one  branch  of  the  river  as  it  plunges  with  a  single  leap  over  a  perpendicular  cliff"  184 
feet,  without  a  break,  into  the  rapid  flood  below.  The  fall  is  one  of  the  finest  to  be 
found  in  these  wild  and  solitary  regions. 

"  Old  bruin  of  the  grizzly  species,  is  found  in  great  numbers  ;  deer,  elk,  and  other 
game  are  also  plentiful.  Leaving  the  roar  and  gloom  about  the  falls  of  Rogue  river, 
we  journey  on  towards  our  destination,  which  is  still  forty  miles  away.  Our  road  lies 
through  one  of  the  finest  forests  of  the  state.  Here  the  sugar  pine  and  fir  grow  to  the 
height  of  250  and  300  feet,  with  diameter  in  many  instances  from  six  to  ten  feet,  and 


JACKSON  COUNTS.  311 

Avill  doubtless  some  day  be  utilized  -with  great  profit.  For  many  miles  there  is  iiothino; 
to  vary  the  monotony  of  this  interminable  forest,  until  we  find  our  road  running  along 
the  edge  of  a  canyon  which  by  time  and  water  has  been  washed  down  the  mountain 
sides  to  considerable  depth.  This  wash  occurred  many  years  ago  as  the  forest  trees 
have  grown  in  it  to  an  enormous  size.  The  great  curiosity  of  this  canyon,  however, 
are  the  columns  or  pyramids  of  rocky  cement  standing  at  the  bottom  of  the  gorge,  and 
with  a  base  of  thirty  or  forty  feet,  reach  a  height  of  seventy-five  or  one  hundred.  These 
pyramids  have  evidently  been  composed  of  a  harder  substance  than  that  which  sur- 
rounded them  and  did  not  yield  so  readily  to  the  action  of  water ;  hence,  were  thus 
preserved  as  items  in  the  great  jianorama  of  curiosities  to  be  found  in  this  wild  region. 

"Having  reached  a  point  within  ten  or  twelve  miles  of  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain, our  road  becomes  gradually  steeper  and  more  difficult  to  ascend.  Here,  too 
evidences  of  volcanic  action  are  more  appareiit.  Great  masses  of  pumice  stone  and 
lava  are  seen  scattered  about.  The  character  of  vegetation  gradually  changes,  and  fir 
predominates  in  this  altitude.  When  three  miles  from  the  summit,  we  turn  to  the 
left, and  after  toiling  for  a  mile  over  scoria,  pumice  and  lava,  we  go  into  camp  and  pre- 
pare to  make  the  remaining  two  miles,  which  is  quite  steep,  on  hor.seback  or  afoot. 
The  weather  for  camping  is  excellent,  and  the  denseness  of  the  fir  timber  gives  pro- 
tection from  the  winds.  Ojien  glades  at  hand  present  a  very  tempting  feast  for  our 
jaded  horses  and  we  soon  have  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  them  revelling  in  clover  and 
redtop,  knee  high,  while  the  rippling  sound  of  the  many  j^ebbly  brooks  near  by  give 
assurance  of  an  abundance  of  nature's  beverage  as  pure  as  though  just  distilled  from 
drops  of  pearly  dew. 

"It  is  well  to  take  the  early  morn  for  the  remainder  of  our  journey,  and  breathe 
the  morning  air  from  the  mountain  tops.  A  night's  rest  in  these  high  altitudes,  coffee 
and  bacon  before  sunrise,  and  the  invigorating  air  give  life  and  vigor,  and  soon  we 
find  ourselves  tripping  up  the  mountain  at  a  rate  only  to  be  maintained  a  few  moments 
without  rest.  The  ascent  is  not  remarkably  steep — in  fact  wagons  can  be  driven  to 
the  very  brink — yet  at  such  an  altitude  the  air  is  very  rare  and  light  and  one  soon 
becomes  exhausted  and  overcome  by  exertion.  As  we  advance,  the  scenery  about  us 
changes  rapidly,  yet  there  is  no  indication  of  a  body  of  water  ahead;  in  fact  we 
appear  to  have  reached  an  elevation  beyond  which  it  is  not  reasonable  to  exj^ect  it. 
The  trees  become  more  dwarfish  and  scraggy.  The  grass  is  less  abundant,  and  we 
miss  the  brooks  and  springs  so  plentiful  just  below.  We  halt  now  and  then  beneath 
the  shade  of  thick  clusters  of  fir,  to  gather  breath  and  rest  our  weary  limbs.  Occa- 
sionally through  openings  in  the  trees  we  get  glimpses  of  towering  peaks,  deep  gorges 
and  wide  spreading  forests  in  the  distance.  All  at  once  and  without  a  moment's  warn- 
ing we  find  ourselves  emerging  from  the  timber  into  an  amphitheater-like  opening. 
Towering  rocks  rise  up  on  either  hand  and  in  front  and  point  skyward ;  around  and 
about  us  is  spread  a  scene  of  desolation.  Huge  masses  of  lava,  ashes,  pumice  stone 
and  rocks  of  igneous  formation  lie  scattered  about.  Just  beyond  us  rise  a  semi-circle 
of  peaks  towering  from  500  to  1,000  feet  above  us  and  encircling  an  area  of  about 
eight  by  fifteen  miles.  A  few  minutes  more  bring  us  to  the  brink  of  Crater  lake, 
where,  standing  on  a  pinnacle  of  rocks,  we  gaze  with  silent  wonder  into  its  awful 
depths.     None  can  look    upon  the  scene   without  feeling  a  sense  of  his   own  insignifi- 


312  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

cance  steal  over  him,  and  lie  iiivohmtarily  .shudders,  in  contemplating  the  awful  work 
wrought  by  an  unseen  and  mighty  power." 

Though  second  to  the  scenery  of  the  Cascades  in  grandeur,  attractiveness  and 
renown,  the  natural  beauties  of  the  various  subordinate  mountain  ranges  yet  deserve 
remark  and  close  scrutiny.  The  Canyon  mountains,  the  ranges  bordering  upon  the 
valley  of  the  Ajjplegate,  and  the  mountains  about  Butte  creek  possess  characteristics  of 
such  interest  as  in  any  country  but  Southern  Oregon  would  bring  celebrity.  There  is 
much  even  in  the  tamer  scenery  of  the  valleys  to  excite  the  imagination,  kindle  curios- 
ity and  gratify  the  taste  of  a  thinking  mind.  Nowhere  else  in  America,  possibly  not 
in  the  world  have  the  forces  of  nature  so  conspired  to  beautify  and  render  a  region 
thoroughly  delightful  as  in  the  Rogue  river  valley.  Men  of  taste  and  experience  have 
with  unanimity  pronounced  it  unrivalled  in  its  own  beauty  and  in  the  grandeur  of  its 
surroundings.  All  that  nature  could  yield  of  majesty  in  altitude,  of  magnificence  in 
distance  and  of  variety  in  coloring  has  been  lavished  upon  the  Rogue  river  valley  in 
unstinted  measure. 

The  diversity  of  scenery  is  pleasing  in  the  extreme.  After  a  long  ride  on  steep 
mountain  grades,  through  narrow  canyons  or  dense  forests  the  traveler,  ascending  a 
commanding  elevation,  catches  as  it  were  a  glimpse  of  Paradise  in  the  rolling  hills  and 
the  lovely  plain  checkered  with  ploughed  or  green  fields  and  diA'ersified  with  streams 
whose  borders  are  fringed  by  the  oak  or  the  lofty  cone-bearing  trees.  Range  after 
range  of  hills,  low  in  the  fore-ground,  but  successively  rising  in  elevation  until  they 
assume  the  dignity  of  mountains,  intercept  the  vision,  and  leave  the  imagination  to  con- 
ceive of  the  picturesque  valleys  and  pleasant  streams  embraced  between  them.  Finally, 
and  as  a  fitting  termination  to  such  a  scene,  the  sharp  pointed  summit  of  the  lofty  Cas- 
cades I'ise  overtopping  all  else.  The  poet  of  Southern  Oregon  has  not  yet  begun  to 
sing,  but  no  one  can  doubt  that  there  is  enough  of  ijoetical  grandeur  and  beauty  in 
these  mountains  and  vales  to  furnish  inspiration  for  the  deepest  and  mightiest  of  songs. 
The  Rogue  river,  a  stream  of  great  celebrity  and  historical  importance,  forming, 
perhaps,  the  most  noticeable  geographical  feature  of  this  region,  was  called  by  the 
natives  Trashit.  Its  English  name  was  early  applied,  but  the  origin  of  the  designa- 
tion is  now  only  a  matter  of  conjecture.  It  is  usually  taken  for  granted  that  it  was  a 
term  of  reproach  applied  by  early  travelers  to  the  Indians  upon  its  banks.  Archbishop 
Blanchet  wrote:  "Rogue  river.  Rogue  river  valley,  in  French  is  La  riviere  auz 
Coquins,  La  vaUee  auz  Coquins — so-called  on  account  of  the  wickedness  of  the 
Indians  in  that  23art  of  the  country."  It  is  well  known  that  the  first  class  of  travelei's 
through  the  region  were  trappers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  company,  a  majority  of  whom 
wei-e  of  French  descent  and  spoke  the  French  language.  They  gave  names  to  certain 
geographical  features  of  the  country,  some  of  which  are  still  in  vogue.  The  designa- 
tion adduced  by  the  reverend  writer  fully  translated  would  be  equivalent  to  the 
English  word  Rogue,  which  would  reasonably  enough  be  preferred  by  Americans,  in 
default  of  a  more  characteristic  term.  Another  hypothesis  derives  the  name  from  the 
French  word  rouge,  red,  and  supports  this  by  saying  that  the  stream  has  or  had  a 
peculiar  reddish  tinge,  derivable,  perhaps,  from  the  sediment  brought  down  by  high 
water.  An  apocryphal  story  is  instanced  to  the  effect  that  a  French  vessel,  passing 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  observed  the  deep  hue  of  the  waters,  and  gave  in  consequence 


L 


iS^I 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  313 

the  name  rouge.  Still  others  have  said  that  the  cliifs  at  the  moutli  of  the  river,  bear- 
ing a  reddish  tint  were  seen  by  the  French  vessel,  whence  the  name  Eiciere  Rouge, 
(»r  Red  river.  But  it  is  evident  that  the  hypothesis  of  a  French  vessel  on  this  jDart  of 
the  coast  is  an  invention  and  an  unnecessary  one,  because  of  the  presence  of  the 
Fi-ench  Hudson  Bay  explorers  on  shore.  These  two  derivations  of  the  name  d(^  not 
by  any  means  possess  equal  claims  to  credence,  for  the  latter  is  intrinsically  the  most 
reasonable.  There  is  hardly  a  doubt  but  that  the  French  trappers  named  the  stream, 
as  they  were  wont  to  bestow  numerous  geographical  terms,  some  of  which  are  yet  in 
vogue,  as  the  Coquille,  The  Dalles,  Des  Chutes,  Malheur,  etc.  But  be  it  understood, 
they  were  in  the  habit  of  bestowing  geographical  names  derived  from  physical  pecu- 
liarities, and  not  by  any  means  from  moral  attributes.  It  would  have  been  in  keeping 
with  their  customs  to  name  this  stream  Riviere  Rouge,  but  not  Riviere  aa.t,  C)jui)i^. 
We  search  in  vain  for  the  latter  designation  upon  the  map  of  British  North  America, 
their  abiding  place  and  from  whence  they  crossed  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific 
shore;  but  we  find  several  Rivieres  Rouges,  two  considerable  waterways  in  the  United 
States  having  once  borne  that  name,  but  now  known  as  Red  river.  Again,  the 
Indians  must  have  been  named  after  the  river,  and  not  the  river  from  the  Indians, 
since  we  never  hear  or  see  the  designation  Rogue  Indians,  but  always  Rogue  River 
Indians.  Hence  it  follows  that  as  the  river  received  its  name  first,  that  name  could 
only  have  been  Rouge,  as  Coquiii  would  be  entirely  inapplicable  to  a  stream  of  water. 
Were  the  Indians  primarily  named  Rogues  or  its  French  equivalent,  it  is  remarkable, 
to  say  the  least,  that  the  river  should  receive  next  their  peculiar  designation,  and  then 
its  own  name  be  conferred  on  the  Indians,  with  the  addition  of  the  word  river  or  its 
French  equivalent.  This  is  a  very  significant  and  interesting  etymological  conundrum 
indeed,  and  only  to  be  settled  provisionally.  There  is  yet  another  considei*ation,  that 
it  is  unlikely  that  the  French  trappers,  men  of  vast  experience  among  savages,  whose 
traditions  were  derived  from  two  centuries  of  life  with  or  warring  against  innumerable 
tribes,  should  reserve  an  opprobrious  designation  for  a  tribe  of  Indians  in  Southern 
Oregon.  Rather  w^ould  they  have  given  it  to  the  fierce  Iroquois,  the  untamable  Sioux 
or  the  cruel  Blackfeet,  enemies  powerful  and  remorseless.  In  the  absence  of  direct 
testimony,  it  appears  by  far  the  most  likely  that  the  river  was  originally  named  Rouge 
by  the  trappers,  which,  by  the  easiest  perversion  imaginable,  was  changed  by  Englisli- 
speaking  men  into  Rogue,  which  it  has  since  remained. 

By  legislative  enactment  dated  in  the  winter  of  1853-4,  Rogue  river  was  to  have 
been  known  as  Gold  river,  a  somewhat  more  euphonious  and  possibly  more  appropriate 
designation  than  the  usual  one;  but  this  name  never  achieved  currency  outside  of  the 
legislative  chambers. 

Of  the  minor  streams  of  Jackson  county,  there  are  the  Big  Butte,  Little  Butte, 
Antelope,  and  Dry  creeks,  with  their  lesser  tributaries,  rising  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  county  and  flowing  westward  into  the  Rogue  above  the  Table  Rocks.  IJear 
creek,  otherwise  called  Mary's  river  and  Stewart  creek  (the  latter  the  name  of  a  gal- 
lant military  officer  wdio  was  killed  near  its  banks),  rises  near  the  southern  boundary 
and  flowing  northwest  empties  into  the  main  river  near  Table  Rock.  The  Applegate, 
indifferently  called  river  or  creek,  also  rises  near  the  California  line.  Its  direction  is 
northwest;  it  is  formed  bv  the  junction  of  tlio   P.ig  and   Little  Apjilegate  ;   it  receives 


314  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

the  waters  of  Sterling,  Williams,  Forest,  and  other  creeks,  and  passing  into  Josephine 
county  it  enters  the  Rogue  in  township  36  south,  range  6  west.  This  stream  drains  a 
very  considerable  region,  mostly  covered  with  rugged  mountain  ranges,  deep  canyons 
and  wooded  steeps,  in  all  perhaps  not  less  than  1,000  square  miles.  East  of  the  sources 
of  the  Applegate  and  Bear  creek  some  small  streams,  notably  Jenny  creek,  with  its 
tributaries  Beaver  and  Keene  creeks  (the  latter  deriving  its  name  from  Granville 
Keene,  killed  thereon  by  Indians  on  or  about  September  3,  1855),  flow  south  into 
Klamath  river.  On  the  north  side  of  Rogue  river  rise  Button,  Trail,  Sam's,  Sardine, 
Evans',  and  other  lesser  creeks,  which  drain  small  valleys,  and  flowing  southward 
empty  in  the  main  river.  Louse  creek.  Grave  or  Leland  creek,  Jump-off-Joe  and 
Wolf  creeks  i-ise  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  county,  flow  west  into  [Josephine 
county  and  ultimately  find  their  way  into  the  Rogue.  Into  the  south  side  of  that 
river  run  the  creeks  known  as  T'Vault's  or  Kane's,  and  Foot's.  These  take  their  rise 
in  the  range  separating  the  Applegate  from  Rogue  river,  and  are  but  small  streams, 
although  somewhat  important  from  the  mining  which  has  been  carried  on  in  their 
sands.  Jackson  creek  flows  a  course  nearly  parallel  with  Bear  creek,  taking  its  rise 
in  the  hills  south  of  Jacksonville,  and  from  its  association  is  an  immensely  important 
stream,  though  very  insignificant  in  volume. 

Each  of  these  streams  drains  a  valley  whose  extent  is  generally  proportioned  to 
their  own  magnitude.  The  largest  of  these  valleys  has  long  been  known  as  Rogue  river 
valley — a  name  which  has  become  as  a  household  word  throughout  the  countries  where 
English  is  spoken.  As  usually  applied  the  term  designates  the  whole  basin  of  the 
Rogue  river,  a  region  of  not  less  than  4,000  square  miles  in  area.  In  Southern  Oregon 
and  particularly  in  Jackson  county,  the  expression  is  confined  to  the  single  valley 
extending  from  Table.  Rock  to  and  above  Ashland,  and  is  a  misnomer,  inasmuch  as 
the  Rogue  river  passes  through  or  by  only  the  lower  end  of  the  tract.  Bear  creek 
valley,  as  bearing  the  name  of  the  stream  which  passes  through  the  middle  of  its 
whole  length,  is  the  more  appropriate  designation  in  every  respect.  The  length  of 
the  valley  proper  is  about  forty  miles,  its  maximum  breadth — being  the  distance  between 
the  summits  of  the  enclosing  ranges — is  about  fifteen  miles,  and  its  average  width  is 
about  eight  miles.  Thus  it  is  equal  in  area  to  300  square  miles,  a  large  jJart  of  which  is 
level  and  of  the  very  finest  quality  of  soil.  The  tillable  land  of  Bear  creek  valley  is 
probably  near  one-half  of  all  in  the  county.  Here  also  live  the  larger  portion  of 
the  population,  who  are  also  the  most  prosiDerous  and  wealthy  of  the  county.  Bear 
creek  valley  thus  becomes  the  center  of  business  and  enterprise,  and  contains  as  a 
natural  consequence  nearly  all  the  institutions  of  religious  worship  and  instruction. 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 


AGRICULTURAL     AND     CLIMATIC     RESOURCES. 

Character  of  the  Soil— The  Conditions  of  Fertility— Adaptation  to  Wheat— A  Rich  Agricultural  Region— Stock- 
raising— Vegetables— Fruit-growing— Enthusiastic  Prophecies — Grapes  and  Wine— An  Extract— Magnificent 
and  Unequalled  Climate— Rainfall— Temperature— Freedom  from  Disease— Retrospection. 

The  material  resources  of  Jackson  county,  which  constitute  a  subject  of  great 
im])ortance  and  interest,  naturally  fall  into  agricultural,  mineral  and  climatic  divisions. 
Concerning  the  former  some  general  facts  will  serve  to  enlighten  the  reader,  who,  for 
particular  instances  should  consult  another  portion  of  this  account. 

The  general  character  of  the  soil  of  Jackson  county  is  a  dark  alluvium  derived 
from  the  slow  and  gradual  disintegration  of  the  sandstone  and  other  rocks,  their 
removal  to  lower  levels,  and  admixture  with  vegetable  mold,  the  product  of  successive 
growth  and  decay  of  grasses,  shrubs  and  trees.  Upon  high  elevations,  particularly  the 
slopes  of  hills  and  mountains,  the  soil  while  partaking  of  the  same  general  character, 
contains  larger  particles  of  rock,  so  much  so  as  to  produce  a  gravelly  or  pebbly  soil. 
Some  extensive  level  tracts  are  composed  of  heavy  alluvial  deposits  of  fine  loam  resting 
upon  a  sub-soil  of  clay.  Usually  the  "bed-rock"  is  close  beneath  the  soil  and  is 
mainly  the  sandstone  country  rock,  or  more  often  the  barren  detritus  left  by  freshets. 
The  foothills  and  mountain  slopes  are  frequently  covered  with  a  warm,  rich,  red  loam, 
verging  into  a  grayish  soil  of  less  fertility.  The  loam,  vegetable  mold,  alluvial 
deposits  and  decomposed,  or  rather  disintegrated  sandstone  each  possess  many  of  the 
elements  of  fertility  and  their  mixture  forms,  as  is  well  known,  the  richest  soils  known 
to  agriculturists.  From  a  chemical  point  of  view  nothing  could  be  better  adapted  to 
the  growth  and  nourishment  of  crops  than  such  soils.  The  various  compounds  which 
go  to  make  up  the  mineral  portion  of  plants,  that  is  the  ash,  are  present  in  ample  (juan- 
tity.  The  potassium  salts,  the  soluble  silica,  the  phosphates  and  otlier  indispensible 
constituents  are  at  hand  to  be  dissolved  in  nature's  alembic,  carried  by  the  sap  of  the 
growing  plant  through  the  minute  canals  which  pervade  it  and  be  incorporated  with 
and  form  a  part  of  its  system.  Given  such  a  soil,  with  a  sub-soil  sufficiently  pervious 
to  water,  and  an  unfailing  supply  of  moisture  just  beneath  it,  and  all  tlie  conditions  of 
successful  agriculture  are  at  hand.  A  large  part  of  the  soils  of  Bear  creek  and  other 
sections  are  of  this  sort;  but  in  many  localities  considerable  tracts  of  shallow  sdil  rest 
upon  an  impervious  foundation  of  sandstone,  or  upon  coarse  gravel  whicli  in  turn 
reposes  ujioii  the  sandstone  country  rock,  ;uid  in  such  cases  faihires  of  crops  are  not 
infrequent. 

Under  the  most  favorable  conditions  the  fertility  of  the  soil  seems  absohitely 
iacxliaustiblc.  Since  farming  began  in  the  Rogue  river  valley,  a  matter  of  thirty  odd 
years  ago,  certain  lands  have  yielded  crops  for  each  successive  year,  and  still  remain 


316  SOUTHERN  OREGON 

unimpaired  in  23roductive  power.  This  applies  to  the  rich  tracts  of  Bear  creek  valley, 
but  is  also  true  in  a  less  degree  of  other  localities,  and  to  some  extent  of  the  hill  lands, 
whose  value  is  being  yearly  demonstrated.  The  rich  loam,  or  porous,  gravelly  soils  of 
the  roiling  hills  have  produced  crops  of  uncommon  abundance  in  seasons  when  the 
level  lands  of  the  valleys  have  only  borne  a  partial  crop.  For  the  culture  of  grain 
crops  of  every  kind  the  soil  of  the  region  has  proved  its  adaj^tability  by  the  exjjerience 
of  a  third  of  a  century.  Wheat  has  always  been  a  favorite  crop.  Barley,  rye  and  oats 
reward  well  the  thrifty  farmer.  Twenty-five  bushels  per  acre  of  either  of  these  grains 
would  in  past  years  have  been  esteemed  a  small  yield,  taking  tlie  country  at  large.  Com- 
pared with  the  area  devoted  to  other  crops  wheat  culture  has  always  been  foremost  in 
imjiortance  of  all  agricultural  branches,  so  much  so  that  we  may  say  that  a  history  of 
agriculture  in  the  valley  is  simply  a  history  of  wheat  raising.  At  a  time  when  the 
acreage  of  tilled  lands  was  small,  and  transportation  so  costly  as  to  debar  the  importa- 
tion of  breadstuflfe  from  the  Willamette  valley  and  the  outer  world  generally,  and 
when  several  thousand  miners  in  Jackson,  Josephine  and  Siskiyou  counties  depended 
for  their  supply  of  flour  almost  exclusively  upon  the  fields  of  Bear  creek  valley,  wheat 
raising  achieved  a  standing  as  a  very  lucrative  occupation,  and  what  is  more,  an  easy 
one.  Flour  at  ten  cents  per  pound  corresjjonds  nearly  to  a  price  of  four  dollars  per 
bushel  for  wheat,  which  was  frequently  raised  in  quantities  of  fifty  or  sixty  bushels 
per  acre — figures  that  point  to  the  growth  of  fortunes  in  small  periods  of  time.  The 
exportation  of  produce  in  bulk  was  impracticable,  for  even  good  wagon  roads  were  not 
yet  had;  hence  the  home  market  alone  being  a  dependence.  Such  products  as  found  a 
ready  sale  at  remunerative  rates  were  cultivated.  These  were  wheat,  vegetables  and 
live  stock.  The  former  industry  was  the  earliest  developed,  as  it  has  since  continued 
the  foremost.  The  farmers  of  Rogue  river  valley  within  fifteen  years  of  the  discovery 
of  gold  had  become  the  wealthiest  of  their  class  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  had  placed 
agriculture  on  a  more  advanced  footing  than  it  had  attained  elsewhere  in  Oregon.  The 
breeding  and  rearing  of  flocks  and  herds  became  also  an  industry  of  no  small  impor- 
tance. It  needed  no  skilled  prescience  to  determine  that  the  country  was  pre-emi- 
nently adapted  to  grazing,  as  on  the  hills  and  mountain  slopes  flourished  uncounted 
acres  of  the  richest  and  most  succulent  grasses  upon  which  in  summer,  horses,  cattle 
and  sheep  waxed  obese  and  contented.  And  in  time  of  frost,  and  snow,  and  rain,  the 
animals  were  able  to  sustain  life  at  least  by  the  heat-giving  powers  of  their  accumulated 
fat,  with  some  aid  from  dried  grass,  ferns  and  mosses.  Consequently  arose  the  nomadic 
class^  of  stock-growers  or  cattle-raisers,  so-called,  who,  however,  do  not  raise  cattle 
or  even  maintain  herds,  but  are  maintained  by  them,  their  principal  and  seemingly 
only  necessary  occupation  being  to  count  their  property.  Stock-raising  has  many 
votaries,  but  as  conducted  in  many  new  countries  bears  no  relation  to  the  industrious 
and  careful  methods  of  real  agriculture. 

An  enthusiastic  visitor  to  this  valley  said :  "  This  fertile  land  will  produce  in 
abundance  anything  that  will  grow  in  the  temperate  zone."  Corn  thrives  better  than 
elsewhere  in  Oregon;  vegetables  of  every  variety  grow  in  profusion,  among  them 
sweet  potatoes,  usually  reckoned  a  semi-tropical  production.  Cabbages,  usually  a  com- 
mon-place product,  inspire  positive  enthusiasm  when  seen  in  Southern  Oregonian 
luxuriance.     The  onion,  of  mildest  flavor  and  completely  devoid  of  its  usual  tear-com- 


JACKSON  COITNTY.  317 

pelling  attributes,  i.s  produced  at  the  rate  sometimes  of  700  Ixishcls  j)er  acre.  The  i)ea, 
the  bean  (Boston's  beloved  aliment),  the  cauliflower,  the  radish,  the  i)otato,  yield  mar- 
velously,  and  beyond  belief  of  the  farmers  of  the  eflfete  east  whose  highest  hopes  are 
centei-ed  upon  the  manure  pile,  and  who  are  strangers  to  the  facile  ways  of  the  agri- 
culturist of  the  Pacific  slope.  Small  fruits  and  berries,  wherever  tried,  have  succeeded 
beyond  expectation ;  but  it  is  from  the  culture  of  orchard  and  vineyard  products  that 
the  people  of  this  region  expect  the  most.  Since  the  decrease  of  mining  and  the  con- 
sequent partial  destruction  of  the  home  market,  and  more  especially  since  the  coming 
of  the  railroad,  it  has  seemed  that  the  heretofore  isolated  country  will  have  to  adapt 
itself  to  the  changed  circumstances  in  which  it  finds  itself.  To  contemplate  the  con- 
tinued raising  of  wheat  in  direct  competition  with  the  boundless  plains  of  California 
and  the  Willamette  valley,  is  to  foresee  a  loss  of  time  and  opjKirtunities.  The  lands  of 
the  Rogue  river  basin  are  too  contracted  in  area  to  admit  of  it ;  and  besides  thev  are 
more  valuable  for  other  purposes.  Fruit  raising,  especially  of  the  apple,  pear  and 
stone  fruits,  will  prove  at  once  a  more  laborious  pursuit  and  a  better  paying  one.  For 
twenty  years  men  have  been  prophesying  an  era  when  the  fruits  of  this  valley  will  be 
regarded  universally  as  the  best  in  the  world  and  sought  for  at  the  highest  prices. 
Perhaps  this  is  so;  probably  there  is  not  in  the  world  a  locality  where  certain  fruits 
attain  such  excellence  in  flavor,  size  and  keeping  qualities.  Men  of  the  widest  experi- 
ence concede  to  the  apples  grown  here  the  highest  merits  in  all  desirable  qualities- 
The  grape  they  have  also  pronounced  unecpialed.  Enthusiastic  wine-drinkers  and 
virtuosos,  have  foreseen  a  time  when  all  the  hill  sides  would  be  covered  with  vineyards, 
and  when  an  overflowing  population,  appeased  of  their  own  beverage,  should  be  enjoy- 
ing life  in  the  shade  of  the  vines.  Soberly  speaking,  they  have  predicted  that  the 
laurels  of  France,  German)',  and  every  foreign  wine-producing  country,  as  well  as 
California,  would  be  wrested  from  them  and  worn  by  the  lovely  vale  of  the  Rogue 
river,  which  will  then  be  the  most  abundant  producer  of  the  best  of  wines.  A  many- 
sided  subject  this,  and  not  to  be  settled  by  the  assertions  of  individuals,  but  by  experi- 
ence alone.  Thus  far  experiments  have  been  successfully  conducted  in  the  planting 
and  care  of  vines  and  the  making  of  wine.  Some  sixty  or  seventy  acres  of  vines  have 
been  set  out,  mainly  near  Jacksonville,  where  are  located  the  two  largest  vineyards, 
those  of  R.  Morat  and  J.  N.  T.  Miller,  each  of  whom  devote  several  acres  to  that  cul- 
ture. Their  wine  production,  amounting  to  several  thousand  gallons  annually,  is 
consumed  in  the  home  market,  as  the  cost  of  transportation  has  heretofore  precluded 
its  export  to  the  outer  world,  whereby  it  would  have  met  a  decisive  test  by  comparison 
with  the  wines  of  other  localities.  The  vineyardist  of  the  present  produces  a  very  fair 
article  of  wine,  but  its  manufacturers  labor  under  the  disadvantages  of  a  wane  of  skill 
and  too  minute  quantities,to  be  very  strikingly  successful.  There  is  certainly  no  lack 
of  space  for  the  planting  of  vineyards,  as  the  hill  lands  have  long  been  conceded  to  be 
best  ada^^ted  for  grapes,  and  in  this  respect  California  has  many  advantages  also.  The 
varieties  of  grapes  thus  far  experimented  upon  in  Jackson  county  are  very  small,  and 
only  one,  the  Mission,  is  much  known.  Doubtless  this  species  is  the  b&st  adapted  to 
the  locality  and  attendant  circumstances,  being  very  hardy  and  requiring  little  care 
and  attention.  Its  wine,  however,  is  distinctly  inferior  to  that  of  nearly  every  other 
variety.      The  introduction   of  suiicrior  varieties  and   the  systematic  and   intelligent 


318  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

pui-ijuit  of  viuiculture  as  a  profession  may  place  the  county  in  the  front  rank  of  wine- 
producing  localities.  Again,  there  is  thus  far  an  entire  absence  of  the  jjhylloxera,  that 
pest  which  is  devastating  the  vineyards  of  California  and  most  wine-making  countries, 
and  which  threatens  to  utterly  destroy  the  vines  of  many  extensive  regions  heretofore 
renowned  for  the  quantity  and  quality  of  their  production.  This  latter  is  an  advan- 
tage of  no  small  consequence,  but  most  likely  the  vineyards  of  this  region  will  in  time 
experience  the  terrible  insect's  ravages. 

A  newspaper  extract,  printed  since  the  capacity  of  the  Rogue  river  valley  for 
fruit  growing  became  known,  is  to  this  effect:  "In  all  countries  valley  land  is  less  valu- 
able than  hill  sides  for  fruit ;  the  foot  hills  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  are  yearly  becoming- 
more  valuable  for  fruit  raising,  and  the  hilly  regions  of  Umpqua  and  Eogue  rivers 
invite  the  exertions  of  fruit  growers  in  unlimited  numbers.  There  is  room  enough  for 
thousands  of  plantations  and  orchards.  The  productiveness  of  the  soil  is  extreme,  it  costs 
considerable  to  prepare  the  land,  but  a  single  crop  under  favorable  circumstances  as  to 
transportation  would  more  than  repay  all  previous  trouble  and  expense.  The  citrus 
family  may  not  thrive  successfully  on  the  Rogue  river,  but  we  can  dispense  with 
oranges,  lemons  and  also  with  the  tenderest  grapes  and  figs,  while  we  raise  hardy  grapes, 
peaches,  apricots,  apples,  pears,  plums,  ^irunes,  cherries  and  berries  in  profusion.  Nine 
years  out  of  ten  the  peaches  are  abundant  and  choice,  and  with  railway  communication 
provided,  would  rule  the  markets  of  the  Willamette  and  Puget  sound,  where  they  can- 
not raise  peaches.  There  is  practically  no  limit  to  the  amount  of  fruit  that  can  be 
grown  in  Jackson  county." 

The  following  excellent  and  well-considered  article  is  taken  from  a  local  publica- 
tion. It  commends  itself  by  the  judgment  it  evinces,  and  contains  hints  which  the 
fruit-grower  and  consumer  have  doubtless  found  of  value.  "  It  is  because  of  its  superior 
fruit  that  we  refer  to  Rogue  river  valley  as  the  Italy  of  Oregon.  It  is  a  well  known 
fact  that  the  finest  flavored  grapes  of  California  are  produced  on  the  sunny  slopes  of  the 
foot-hills,  and  the  conditions  there  found  exist  in  the  foot-hill  region  of  Jackson  county. 
The  vines  produce  large  clusters,  and  the  grapes  have  a  most  excellent  flavor,  being- 
very  juicy  and  making  a  superior  quality  of  wine.  The  conditions  of  soil  and  climate 
are  also  very  favorable  to  peaches,  the  fruit  being  superior  in  flavor,  though  a  trifle 
smaller  in  size,  to  the  California  product.  The  slight  touch  of  frost  in  winter,  though 
too  mild  to  injure  the  vines  or  trees,  gives  a  flavor  to  the  fruit  that  is  lacking  in  that  of 
the  warmer  regions  of  California.  The  bottom  lands  are  especially  adapted  to  fruit 
culture,  and  it  is  that  class  of  soil  that  has  been  utilized  the  most  by  fruit  growers.  In 
addition  to  grapes  and  peaches,  apricots,  pears,  plums,  apples,  cherries  and  the  usual 
fruits  produce  luxuriantly,  and  are  of  excellent  quality,  especially  the  apples,  which 
have  no  superior  anywhere.  Hitherto  the  foot-hills  have  been  used  chiefly  as  a  grazing 
ground  for  sheep,  but  that  the  flocks  will  seek  'pastures  new'  and  the  laud  be  planted 
extensively  in  vineyards  and  orchards  is  certain.  On  the  whole  the  fruit  interest  of 
Rogue  river  valley  consists  more  in  the  possibilities  of  the  future  than  in  what  has 
already  been  accomplished.  With  no  market  beyond  the  limits  of  Southern  Oregon, 
farmers  had  formerly  no  encouragement  to  plant  extensive  orchards  or  large  vineyards, 
but  enough  has  been  done  to  show  the  wonderful  adaptability  of  the  soil  and  climate  to 
the  production  of  fruit.     The  whole  northwest  offers  a  market  at  good  prices  for  fruit 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  ,U1> 

of  all  kinds,  while  certain  varieties  are  largely  sought  after  in  the  east.  There  is  no 
business  that  can  be  embarked  in  with  greater  promise  of  a  golden  reward  than  that  of 
fruit  culture.  It  must,  however,  like  everything  else,  be  managed  properly  to  be  a  great 
success.  Orchards  and  vineyards  must  be  planted  and  taken  care  of  in  a  systematic 
manner  and  the  business  from  first  to  last  conducted  as  experience  in  other  places  has 
shown  to  be  best.  Especially  must  the  fruit  be  put  up  in  an  attractive  and  marketable 
shape,  well  assorted,  conveniently  packed  for  handling  by  the  dealer  and  attractive  to 
the  eye.  Experience  in  California  and  elsewhere  shows  that  the  most  successful  fruit 
raisers  are  those  whose  product  reaches  the  market  in  the  best  condition  and  presents 
the  most  inviting  appearance.  Already  we  hear  of  a  number  of  experienced  orchardists 
who  intend  to  locate  in  Southern  Oregon  immediately.  It  is  a  great  pity  that  the 
farmers  of  that  region  have  not  prepared  themselves  for  the  market  now  being  opened, 
by  planting  extensive  orchards,  but  it  is  by  no  means  too  late,  though  the  golden 
harvest  must  be  delayed.  The  men  who  set  out  at  once  large  orchards  and  vineyards 
and  get  them  into  bearing  condition,  will  be  the  first  to  reap  their  reward.  The  market 
is  large,  growing  and  permanent." 

In  its  climate  Jackson  county  is  truly  blessed.  It  possesses  the  combined  advan- 
tages of  many  other  sections  with  almost  no  drawback.  In  another  portion  of  this 
volume  the  annual  rainfall  with  statistics  of  temperature  are  set  forth,  from  which 
much  may  be  learned  as  to  its  meteorology.  The  average  annual  rainfall  in  the  Bear 
creek  valley  is  about  twenty-five  inches — a  quantity  almost  exactly  proportioned  to 
the  needs  of  agriculture.  This  total  is  about  half  that  exjierienced  in  the  Willamette 
valley,  but  is  considerably  more  than  that  of  Eastern  Oregon.  It  is  sufficient  for 
every  known  crop  and  falls  at  such  times  as  to  perfectly  answer  the  needs  of  tillage  in 
every  locality.  The  wisest  human  foresight  could  not  apportion  the  rainfall  more 
satisfactorily,  for  on  the  one  hand  all  damage  and  loss  by  freshets  is  nearly  obviated, 
and  on  the  other  the  crops  and  grasses  mature  under  its  infiuence.  Extremely  heavy 
rains,  as  experienced  in  other  localities  are  unknown  here,  and  injurious  floods  recur 
so  seldom  and  in  so  insignificant  measure  as  to  be  of  little  consequence  and  not  to  be 
considered.  The  extreme  limits  of  annual  rainfall  are  not  over  twenty  inches,  com- 
paring favorably  with  localities  in  California  where  the  variation  is  not  less  than  forty, 
and  in  the  northwestern  part  of  Oregon  Avhere  it  is  even  more.  Hence  it  follows  that 
a  certain  amount  of  rain  may  be  calculated  upon,  which  is  the  principal  element  fiivor- 
ing  sure  crops.  Again,  this  rainfall  occurs  at  favorable  times  of  the  year,  when  its 
influence  is  for  the  good  of  agriculture.  The  somewhat  infrequent  summer  showers 
jflay  their  part  in  laying  the  dust,  purifying  the  air  and  renewing  the  verdure,  while 
the  greater  part  of  rain  falls  in  the  colder  months,  preparing  the  land  for  the  ojx'ra- 
tions  of  plowing  and  sowing.  The  temperature  is  equally  favorable.  The  extreme 
height  of  the  thermometer  rarely  exceeds  ninety-five  degrees,  and  as  rarely  sinks  in 
winter  below  twenty.  The  range  cannot  be  over  seventy  degrees  in  an  ordinary 
season,  while  its  yearly  average  is  about  fifty  and  one-half  degrees.  Thus  the  climate 
of  Jackson  county  closely  resembles  that  of  California,  if  we  make  allowance  for  the 
higher  latitude  and  the  consequent  depression  of  the  temperature.  That  j'ortion  of  the 
Golden  State  lying  to  the  south  of  this  region,  hoAvever,  is  afflicted  very  fre(|uently  by 
too  excessive  rains,  which  act  injuriously   upon   many  occiipations;  and  in  this  res])ect 


320  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

Jacksou  county  is  much  more  highly  favored.  Finally,  it  is  a  fact  that  the  Rogue 
river  valley  possesses  the  most  favorable  climate  for  agriculture  that  is  known  to  the 
Pacific  coast.  This  fact  is  easily  substantiated  by  referring  to  the  meteorological  tables 
published  herewith.  The  regularity  of  the  rainfall  and  its  comparative  lightness, 
added  to  the  fact  of  its  distribution  through  the  most  advantageous  part  of  the  year  are 
necessarily  owing  to  the  configuration  of  the  various  ranges  of  mountains  which  lie 
along  the  coast  and  modify  the  vapor-laden  winds.  Besides  the  strictly  useful  effects 
of  the  climate,  it  has  the  additional  property  of  being  extremely  healthful  and  invigor- 
ating. Under  such  skies  and  blown  upon  by  such  breezes,  existence  itself  is  luxurious 
contentment.  Pure  air,  abundance  of  good  water — for  no  country  is  better  supplied 
with  pure  and  cool  streams — scenery  remarkable  and  hardly  surpassed,  and  finally  a 
profusion  of  the  choicest  productions  of  the  temperate  zone,  make  up  all  that  reason- 
able mortals  could  desire  for  their  chosen  abiding  place.  To  name  all  the  features 
wherein  the  Rogue  river  country  is  signally  blessed  would  require  pages.  We  might 
recall  the  fact  that  no  serious  earthquakes  have  occurred  here  since  man's  advent;  no 
pestilences  dangerous  to  life  have  been  known;  even  the  common  endemic  diseases  are 
scarce;  no  violent  hurricanes,  such  as  have  devastated  portions  of  the  west,  have  been 
noticed,  nor  ever  can  be,  because  of  the  surrounding  mountains;  there  have  been  no 
droughts  injurious  to  crops;  no  "pluvial  disj^ensations "  of  long  continuance,  by  which 
floods  are  produced,  lives  endangered  and  property  destroyed,  and  no  cold  waves  of 
sufficient  intensity  to  inflict  damage.  But  on  the  other  hand  there  is  an  amount  of 
rich  land  sufficient  for  the  support  of  a  very  numerous  population;  a  climate  nourish- 
ing and  invigorating  to  plants,  man  and  animals  alike:  a  rainfall  exactly  sufficient  to 
meet  reasonable  wants,  sure  and  abundant  enough  to  fairly  co-act  with  the  fertility  of 
the  soil,  bringing  forth  in  abundance  its  choicest  productions;  there  is  scenery  so  grand 
and  so  varied  as  to  fill  with  wonder  the  stranger's  mind  and  to  never  weary  the  eye  of 
the  oldest  pioneer;  there  is  pasturage  sufficient  for  myriads  of  grazing  animals;  there 
is  water  power  enough  to  propel  the  machinery  of  hundreds  of  manufactories;  there 
are  quartz  veins  and  gravel  deposits  bearing  gold  which  for  centuries  may  be  worked 
with  good  results;  and  there  is  railroad  communication  with  the  outside  world  by 
which  the  numberless  rich  products  of  the  valley  may  be  transported  quickly  and 
cheaply  to  market.  Such  are  a  portion  only  of  the  advantages  of  the  Rogue  river 
country,  in  many  of  which  it  shares  equally  with  other  parts  of  Southern  Oregon. 
For  the  immigrant  who  desires  a  home  with  the  comforts  and  in  due  time  the 
elegancies   of  life,  no  other  part  of  Anxerica  offers  equal   inducements. 


yV/»UHC  LITH  POBTJ  Ji, 


Presbyterian  Church,  Jacksonville. 


CHAPTER     XXXVIII. 


MINERAL    RESOURCES  OF  JACKSON  COUNTY. 

Minerals  found  in  the  County —Mineral  Springs  -Limestone— Iron— Coal— Mercury -Gravel  mining — Progress  of 
the  art— The  pan  — Rocker— Tom— Sluice  —Hydraulic  mining  How  Conducted  -The  lack  of  Water— Yield 
of  the  mines— Product  decreasing- -Mining  locations. 

The  mineral  resources  of  Jackson  county  comprise  de2)0sits  of  gold,  silver,  copper, 
iron,  lead,  salt,  coal  and  limestone,  besides  granite,  sandstone  and  other  rocks  suitable 
for  building  purposes.  There  are  mineral  springs  of  various  descriirtions,  some  hot  and 
some  of  the  sort  known  as  sulphur  springs ;  there  are  soda  springs  in  the  Siskiyou 
mountains,  and  a  variety  of  less  known  aqueous  effusions,  many  of  them  believed  to  be 
viluable  for  medicinal  purposes.  Nickel,  tin  and  zinc  are  said  to  exist  in  Jackson 
county.  Thus  far  the  extraction  of  gold  from  auriferous  deposits  in  gravel  has  been 
by  far  the  most  imjiortant  raining  interest,  the  reduction  of  quartz  containing  gold 
standing  second  in  importance.  The  industries  depending  upon  the  working  of  copper, 
iron  and  coal  deposits  have  not  as  yet  attained  a  commencement,  and  their  relative 
importance  cannot  now  be  told.  Limestone  is  found  in  several  localities,  notably  on 
Jackson  creek,  where  it  is  extracted  and  calcined  in  kilns,  producing  a  good  article  of 
lime  for  mason  work.  At  other  places  it  abounds,  often  attaining  the  form  of  marble, 
which  is  well  known  to  be  a  form  of  limestone,  and  which  is  sometimes  of  sufficient 
purity  for  statuary  uses.  This,  as  well  as  the  iron,  coal  and  copper  deposits,  may 
become  of  great  value  in  the  future. 

Cinnabar,  the  sulphide  of  mercury,  the  ore  whence  quicksilver  is  derived,  has  for 
many  years  been  known  to  exist  in  Jackson  county,  and  in  several  localities  is  found 
in  paying  quantities.  On  Evans'  creek,  in  the  western  part  of  the  county,  claims  have 
been  taken,  deposits  examined  and  the  metal  produced ;  but  owing  to  the  fall  in  the 
[)rice  of  that  commodity,  and  to  other  causes,  the  dawning  industry  which  was  once  of 
great  promise,  was  suffered  to  sink  into  temporary  obscurity.  At  present  no  quick- 
silver is  produced  in  this  county,  although  there  is  thought  to  be  paying  ore  sufficient 
to  supply  a  very  large  part  of  the  world's  consumirtion  for  years. 

The  history  of  gravel  mining  in  Jackson  county  is  a  subject  of  intense  interest, 
intermingled  as  it  is  with  so  much  of  human  enterprise  and  suffering.  In  every  respect 
it  resembles  and  is  identical  with  the  history  of  the  mining  counties  of  California,  with 
which  state  Jackson  county  has  far  closer  affiliations  than  with  the  exclusively  agricul- 
tural portion  of  Oregon.  Indeed,  it  is  a  rather  striking  and  in  some  sense  regrettable 
fact  that  it  is  not  a  part  of  the  former  state.  Settled  by  the  same  class  of  enterprising, 
fearless  and  progressive  miners  it  became  the  abode  of  a  population  who,  except  for 
being  surrounded  with  great  agricultui-al  advantages,  were  circumstanced  i)recisely  as 
those  of  California.     The  surface  mining  industiy  grew  uji  under  the  same  conditions, 


322  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

attained  its  maximum  at  the  ssame  time  and  has  declined  in  the  same  proportion. 
Hydraulic  mining  has  suffered  the  same  mutations  which  beset  it  in  the  golden  state, 
excejating  as  to  the  famous  debris  question,  but  unlike  the  present  condition  of  the 
industry  in  California,  it  seems  that  the  deep  jjlacers  of  Jackson  and  Josephine  counties 
are  so  extensive  that  they  may  remain  unexhausted  for  centuries. 

Three  methods  of  mining  have  been  mainly  followed  in  the  extraction  of  gold  ; 
whereof  two  j^ertain  to  gravel  mining,  and  the  other  is  quartz  mining,  so-called.  One 
of  the  former  is  called  surface  placer  mining,  the  other  is  styled  hydraulic  mining. 
The  former  process — the  washing  of  gravel  from  shallow  beds — is  the  forerunner  of 
the  hydraulic  process,  and  although  comparatively  old,  yet  as  practiced  for  the  last 
twenty-five  years  is  an  enormous  improvement  on  foreign  and  antiquated  modes  of 
mining.  When  in  1848  the  sands  of  California  were  first  found  to  contain  gold,  tlie 
only  known  means  of  separating  it  from  the  dirt  was  by  washing  with  water  in  a 
batea,  a  wooden  bowl  in  use  by  Mexican  miners  for  generations.  Ordinary  culinary 
vessels  were  substituted  for  lack  of  these,  and  by  experiment  the  common  milk  pan 
was  found  to  be  by  its  size  and  shape  well  calculated  to  effect  the  separation  of  the  con- 
tained earth  and  gold.  Accordingly  these  were  first  used  exclusively,  the  iron  seam- 
less "gold  pan"  now  so  universally  known,  being  an  improvement  in  manufacture. 
Thousands,  and  probably  millions  of  dollars  was  thus  laboriously  and  painfully  washed 
out  before  the  miners  advanced  to  the  discovery  and  use  of  the  rocker  or  cradle.  This 
article,  also  familiar  to  all  residents  in  mining  localities,  is  a  long  step  in  advance  of 
the  pan  or  batea,  as  by  its  use  two  men  are  enabled  to  do  the  work  of  six  or  eight 
provided  only  with  the  latter  instruments.  For  awhile  this  apparatus  served  the  pur- 
pose for  which  it  was  designed,  but  the  increasing  scarcity  of  very  rich  diggings,  added 
to  the  large  amount  of  gravel  requisite  to  be  washed  to  procure  what  were  considered 
fair  results,  led  to  the  introduction  of  the  "  tom,"  a  contrivance  whereby  a  steady  stream 
of  water  was  led  upon  the  gravel,  washing  it  and  setting  free  the  gold,  whose  superior 
gravity  carried  it  to  the  bottom,  whereby  it  became  entangled  in  cross  "  riffles"  and  so 
saved,  while  the  lighter  refuse  was  carried  away  by  the  force  of  the  stream.  The  pan, 
the  rocker,  and  the  tom,  alike  were  used  wherever  water  could  be  procured,  the  dirt 
being  usually  carried  to  the  water,  for  no  extended  ditches  had  yet  been  prepared  to 
bring  the  water  to  the  dirt.  JSText  in  point  of  time  was  the  grand  discovery  of  tlie 
sluice,  Avhich  grew  by  evolution  from  the  pan,  the  rocker  and  the  tom,  and  was  their 
natural  successor.  Gravel  deposits  of  gi-eater  extent  had  become  known,  whose  mass 
was  beyond  the  power  of  man  to  move  in  any  ordinary  term  of  life,  and  for  whose 
working  the  ordinary  implements  of  mining  were  entirely  inadequate.  Systematic 
mining  had  made  now  its  greatest  step ;  the  water  was  brought  to  the  gravel  and  its 
laborious  handling  was  confined  to  shoveling  into  the  sluice  wherein  a  strong  stream 
ran  swiftly,  carrying  it  away,  separating  its  particles  and  dropping  its  contained  gold 
into  "  riffles"  as  in  the  tom.  With  this  improvement  the  amount  of  dirt  Avhich  could 
be  washed  daily  depended  upon  the  strength  and  energy  of  those  who  wielded  the 
l)ick  and  shovel.  Sluices,  at  first  of  but  slight  length,  afterwards  were  adopted  in  a 
continuous  line  hundreds  of  yards  in  length,  whereby  a  larger  percentage  of  gold  was 
saved.  The  line  usually  led  directly  across  the  claim  ;  and  the  "  bronzed  and  hardy 
gold-seekers,"  partners  in  the  profits,  stood  upon  either  side  of  the  boxes  and  shoveled 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  323 

the  earth  into  them.  This  irajn-ovement  led  to  the  formation  of  companies  of  miners, 
whereby  advantages  accrued  in  securing  "  water  rights"  and  "  dumping  grounds"  and 
sufficient  quantities  of  "  pay  dirt,"  which  would  usually  have  been  impossible  to  solitary 
workers.  Ground-sluicing  and  booming,  related  inventions,  still  of  practical  use,  took 
their  rise  co-incident  with  the  sluice.  Finally  we  come  to  the  last  great  step  in  gravel 
mining — the  invention  of  the  hydraulic  process.  With  the  continued  use  of  the  sluice 
the  greater  part  of  the  valuable  shallow  deposits  were  worked  and  pay  dirt  became 
scarcer  year  by  year,  while  in  certain  localities  in  California  and  Oregon  the  existence 
of  enormous  beds  of  auriferous  gravel,  comparatively  poor  in  gold,  had  been  discov- 
ered, but  could  not  be  worked  by  any  known  means  owing  to  the  high  price  of  labor. 
In  some  instances  these  deposits  were  of  tolerable  richness,  but  were  overlaid  by  a 
great  depth  of  worthless  earth,  frequently  one  hundred  or  more  feet  in  depth.  In  such 
cases  a  considerable  quantity  of  gold-bearing  dirt  was  sometimes  extracted  by  "  drift- 
ing," that  is,  by  tunneling  in  to  the  dejjosit  and  removing  it  by  hand,  as  in  quartz 
mining.  This,  too,  is  an  expensive  process,  and  the  exigencies  of  the  situation  led  to 
the  invention  of  the  "  giant"  and  the  use  of  a  powerful  jet  of  water  thrown  against  a 
bank  of  earth,  whereby  it  is  washed  into  the  sluices  without  the  intervention  of  manual 
labor  except  in  directing  the  working  stream.  The  earliest  records  of  hydraulic 
washing  show  that  a  miner  in  Calaveras  county,  California,  first  applied  the  principle, 
using  an  extemporized  canvas  hose  leading  from  a  barrel  so  placed  as  to  receive  the 
water  of  a  spring.  Its  value  was  soon  perceived  and  "  hydraulics"  came  slowly  into 
use,  but  not  of  course  in  the  manner  now  in  jiractice.  Larger  amounts  of  water  and 
higher  "  heads"  have  been  successively  introduced  until  now,  in  certain  instances,  sev- 
eral hundred  cubic  feet  of  water  per  minute  is  forced  through  a  single  nozzle,  with  the 
]ircssure  due  to  400  feet  of  fall.  Such  a  stream  moves  bouldei'S  of  immense  size,  hurls 
earth  and  cobbles  to  a  height  of  many  feet,  and  erodes  great  hills  and  mountain  sides 
(hiring  a  season's  work.  All  the  appurtenances  of  hydraulic  raining  have  advanced 
in  the  same  degree.  There  are  companies  lately  operating  in  California  who  had  pre- 
pared ditches  of  forty  miles  or  more  in  length,  carrying  in  an  extreme  case  10,0(X) 
miner's  inches  of  water  (a  miner's  inch  is  equal  to  one  and  a  half  cubic  feet  per  min- 
ute), which  is  led  to  the  claims  under  pressure  of  from  250  to  400  feet.  In  iSouthern 
Oregon  the  process  was  early  introduced  ;  its  working  has  nearly  always  been  attended 
with  profit ;  and  there  remains  at  this  day  a  very  large  amount  of  earth  fit  to  l)e 
worked  and  which  will  be  "jjiped"  away  when  water  can  be  brought  upon  it.  Tlie 
minimum  for  which  auriferous  dirt  can  be  worked  with  profit  by  the  hydraulii-  pro- 
cess, where  all  the  surroundings  are  advantageous,  is  five  cents  per  cubic  yartl  ;  and 
most  workings  must  contain  four  times  that  in  order  to  pay.  To  digress  somewhat,  let 
it  be  observed  that  a  cubic  yard  is  about  17o  or  200  panfuls ;  if,  then,  it  required 
twenty-five  cents  worth  of  gold  to  make  a  panful  worth  working  in  the  "  flush  times," 
it  seems  that  the  process  of  washing  is  now  performed  at  nearly  one  thousand  times 
less  cost  than  formerly.  Undoubtedly  there  are  very  great  and  extensive  deposits  of 
auriferous  gravel  in  Jackson  and  Josephine  counties  which  contain  much  more  than 
twenty  cents  per  cubic  yard  ;  and  there  is  a  great  additional  advantage  in  that  the 
debris  resultino-  from  their  WDrkingcan  never  be  seriously  (jctriincntal,  as  any  injury 


324  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

to  the  navigation  of  tlie  Illinois;  and  Rogue  rivers  and   A2)plegate  creek  need   not  be 
a  subject  of  solicitude. 

As  a  great  and  unfailing  amount  of  water  is  necessary  for  the  successful  prosecu- 
tion of  hj'draulic  mining,  and  as  heretofore  the  greater  part  of  the  hydraulic  miners  of 
Southern  Oregon  have  only  been  able  to  work  their  claims  for  a  few  months  each 
year,  depending  upon  the  rains  for  their  su^^ply,  it  has  been  deemed  of  great  moment 
that  water  be  procured  from  a  more  reliable  source  than  the  creeks  and  springs  hereto- 
fore dejsended  on.  With  this  view  it  has  been  suggested  to  tap  the  Klamath  river 
above  Cottonwood  creek,  and  bring  its  waters  by  a  long,  wide  and  deep  ditch  to  the 
placers  in  Applegate  and  other  localities.  Such  a  ditch  would  be  an  immensely  costly 
undertaking,  no  doubt,  as  its  length  would  probably  reach  seventy  miles;  but  that  it 
would  be  a  pecuniary  success  is  the  opinion  of  many  miners.  Another  scheme  is  for 
the  introduction  of  water  from  the  falls  of  Rogue  river,  whereby  a  ditch  fifty  miles 
long  would  be  required,  and  the  water  used  in  various  localities  where  deep  placers 
exist,  as  Foot's  creek,  etc.  The  Sentinel  in  1859  suggested  the  use  of  artesian  wells  as 
a  source  of  water;  but  this  suggestion,  although  backed  by  cogent  arguments,  showing 
how  it  was  likely  from  the  shape  of  the  Rogue  river  basin  that  water  exists  in  exten- 
sive gravel  strata  beneath  the  surface  and  under  immense  pressure,  Avas  not  acted  upon, 
and,  indeed,  has  elsewhere  proved  unfeasible. 

The  area  of  gold  mines  in  Southern  Oregon  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  line 
which  begins  on  the  North  Umpqua  river  where  the  Willamette  meridian  crosses  that 
stream,  continues  south  across  the  South  Umpqua,  then  bending  west  passes  down  the 
right  bank  of  Rogue  river  to  the  mouth  of  Bear  creek,  proceeds  up  that  creek  to  the 
vicinity  of  Barron's,  and  so  passes  into  California.  '  Eastward  of  the  line  no  gold,  save, 
perhaps,  occasional  traces  has  ever  been  found.  It  will  be  noticed  that  the  boundary 
line  bends  westward  in  the  Rogue  river  basin.  All  that  portion  of  Jackson  county 
lying  west  of  that  line  is  considered  as  the  mining  district,  and  includes  about  one- 
third  of  the  county's  whole  area.  Within  the  district  are  the  gravel  mining  localities 
known  and  celebrated  under  the  names  of  Jackson  creek,  Sterling  creek,  Applegate, 
Forest  creek  (otherwise  known  as  Jackass),  Foot's  creek,  Kane's  creek,  Evans'  creek. 
Pleasant  creek.  Sardine  creek.  Ward's  creek,  Poorman's  creek.  Grave  creek  (Leland 
creek).  Jump-off- Joe  creek.  Coyote  creek,  Louse  creek,  Wagner  creek.  Phoenix,  etc.,  as 
well  as  the  quartz  claims  of  Gold  hill,  Jackson  creek.  Steamboat,  and  many  others. 
Here  was  mined  a  vast  amount  of  treasure  which  played  the  foremost  part  in  building- 
up  and  developing  the  resources  of  this  cotmtry.  Many  millions  of  wealth  were  here 
taken  out,  and  the  history  of  the  industx-ious  miners  who  did  the  work  forms,  here  as 
elsewhere,  the  most  -interesting  of  all  the  records  of  the  past.  Nor  is  the  mining 
industry  by  any  means  at  an  end.  The  rich  and  shallow  placers  were  doubtless  pretty 
nearly  exhausted  years  ago,  and  only  a  few  miners,  mostly  relics  of  the  past,  continue 
to  work  over  and  again  the  sands  which  have  yielded  so  much.  But  there  still  exist 
deep  deposits  of  unworked  and  as  yet  itnworkable  grounds,  which,  by  the  scarcity  of 
water,  have  never  been  utilized,  and  these  in  the  future  will  doubtless  be  found  to  iJay. 
Some  of  these  would  give,  say  the  experienced,  an  immense  return  if  projserly  worked 
by  hydraulic  process.  The  capitalist  or  miner  who  desires  to  make  trial  of  these 
deposits  is  confronted  liv  the  lu-oblem  of  how  water  is  to  l)e  procured,  and  retires  satis- 


JACKSON  COITNTX.  3J5 

fietl  that  no  ordinary  outlay  will  provide  a  sufficient  supply.  Still,  there  will  doubtless 
be  found  some  man  or  an  association  of  men  who  will  be  willing  to  make  an  invest- 
ment of  sufficient  capital  to  construct  an  immense  ditch,  bringing  water  from  a  great 
distance  to  the  beds,  and  then  by  means  of  hydraulic  appai'atus  washing  down  the 
great  banks  and  separating  the  gold. 

Statisticians  have  frequently  attempted  to  ascertain  the  yield  of  the  mines  of  Jack- 
son county  during  all  the  years  subsequent  to  its  settlement ;  but  a  distant  approxima- 
tion is  only  to  be  achieved.  The  principal  association  concerned  in  handling ,  the 
jjroduct  has  been  the  express  company  of  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.,  whose  agent  at  Jackson- 
ville testifies  to  having  forwarded  ten  million  dollars  worth  of  gold  since  1856.  A 
small  portion  only  of  this  may  have  come  from  Josephine  county.  It  is  the  agent's 
opinion  that  an  equal  amount  was  extracted  during  the  same  time  Avhich  found  other 
means  of  egress  from  the  locality.  By  calculations  based  upon  these  figures  we  are  apt 
to  arrive  at  the  opinion  that  thirty  millions  represents  the  quantity  mined  between  the 
years  1851  and  1884,  in  Jackson  county  alone.  This  is  regarded  as  a  reasonable  esti- 
mate, but  the  true  amount  may  be  millions  greater  or  less.  Of  this  amount  the  quartz 
mines  have  furnished  a  sum  somewhat  in  excess  of  half  a  million  dollai-s. 

While  the  average  annual  yield  may  have  been  quite  a  million  a  year,  the  out-put 
of  precious  metal  has  in  general  decreased  each  year  from  1856  until  the  present.  In 
the  years  preceding  1860  it  is  thought  to  have  averaged  over  one  and  a  quarter  mil- 
lions, whereas  in  the  year  named  it  was  probably  not  above  $1,150,000.  By  1870  it 
had  decreased  to  two-thirds  of  that  amount,  and  in  succeeding  years,  as  the  placers 
become  extinct  and  mining  population  diminished,  very  little  was  done  in  shal- 
low diggings,  the  hydraulics  taking  the  place  of  picks  and  shovels,  and  the  yearly 
product  has  now  sunk  to  less  than  .|250,000.  The  yield  depends  however  on  the  rela- 
tive rainfall  of  the  season,  for  circumstanced  as  the  most  of  the  miners  are  they  must 
look  to  the  evanescent  clouds  of  the  heavens  for  the  means  wherewith  to  make  their 
mines  produce. 

The  extent  of  the  mining  industry  in  Jackson  county  is  shown  by  the  fact  that 
5438  mining  locations  were  made  from  October  8,  185(),  to  June  30,  1880.  Of  these 
sixteen  were  co^jper,  one  tin,  124  cinnabar,  and  the  rest  gold  and  silver.  There  were 
1221  conveyances  of  mining  claims  and  133  transfers  of  water  ditches  and  rights  during 
the  same  time.  The  claims  were  located  as  follows :  In  Big  Applegate  District,  466 ; 
in  Little  Applegate,  39;  Uniontown,  2;  Sterling,  151;  Jackass,  491;  Jackson- 
ville, 1463;  Forty-nine,  234;  Willow  Springs,  785;  Gold  Hill,  3(51;  Gairs  creek,  95  ; 
Foot's  creek,  288;  Evans'  creek,  115;  Sardine  creek,  132;  Louse  creek,  25;  Dry  Diggings; 
33;  Jump-oflP-Joe,  114;  Grave  creek,  224;  Coyote  creek,  75;  Poorman's  creek,  300; 
Steamboat,  45. 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 


QUARTZ     MINING     IN    JACKSON     COUNTY. 

Two  Years  of  Prospecting-— Distinction  Between  Milling  and  Pocket  Veins— Pocket  Mining— An  Easy  Road 
to  Riches— The  First  Quartz  Mine— The  Gold  Hill  Mine— Enormous  Yield  The  First  Quartz  Mill— The 
Black  well  Lead— The  Jewitt  Mine— Mines  on  Jackson  Creek— Two  Quartz  Mills — The  Fowler  Mine- 
Its  History — A   Silver   Excitement. 

The  history  of  quartz  mining  in  Jackson  county  mostly  centers  about  the  dis- 
covery of  the  rich  leads  at  Gold  hill  and  Steamboat,  and  is  mainly  embraced  in  the 
two  years  of  1860  and  1861,  in  the  first  of  which  the  greatest  results  were  attained 
and  the  greatest  amount  of  work  done.  Thus  quartz  mining  will  be  seen  to  occupy 
but  a  single  short  period  in  the  county's  history,  and  resembles  a  spasmodic  outburst 
which  suddenly  began  and  as  suddenly  ceased  without  very  beneficial  immediate 
results  to  the  community,  but  giving  great  hopes  for  a  future  time  when,  the  subject 
of  mining  and  milling  being  better  understood,  much  greater  things  may  be  expected. 
The  ledges  of  gold-bearing  quartz  have  not  proved  particularly  numerous,  but  perhaps 
as  large  a  proportion  of  them  have  been  found  to  contain  workable  rock  as  in  any 
other  part  of  the  country.  Indeed,  it  would  be  difficult  to  point  out  any  locality 
whatever  in  which  the  net  returns  have  been  greater  for  the  amount  invested  and  the 
work  done.  The  experience  of  miners  has  shown  that  the  veins  of  Jackson  county 
are  "spotted" — that  is,  their  content  of  gold  is  not  uniformly  distributed  throughout 
the  mass  of  quartz,  but  is  collected  within  small  spaces  of  abnormally  rich  rock 
technically  called  "pockets."  In  other  mining  countries  the  same  thing  occurs;  and 
practical  quartz  miners  are  in  the  habit  of  distinguishing  such  veins  by  the  name  of 
"pocket  leads,"  in  contradistinction  to  those  veins  where  gold  is  uniformly  dissemi- 
nated throughout,  which  are  called  "milling  leads,"  as  requiring  reduction  by  mill 
process,  whereas  pocket  veins  are  worked  by  more  simj^le  means.  The  working  of 
pocket  veins  has  become  an  industry  of  no  small  imj)ortance  in  the  "slate  belt"  of 
California,  and  it  is  highly  possible  that  a  few  hints  from  the  experience  of  the  busy 
workers  there  might  assist  in  developing  the  hidden  wealth  of  Jackson  county- 
Twenty  years,  during  which  "hunting  pockets"  has  become  an  exclusive  pursuit 
carried  on  without  reference  to  ordinary  mining,  has  brought  the  occupation  to  the 
dignity  of  an  art  and  a  profession.  The  initiated  talk  abstrusely  of  "leads,"  "dikes," 
"crossings,"  "elbows,"  "bends,"  "blue  slate"  and  the  other  technicalities  of  their  pur- 
suit, and  have  formulated  the  principles  supposed  to  determine  the  location  of  pockets 
with  such  approximation  as  to  enable  the  seeker  in  many  cases  to  discover  the  hidden 
treasure.  Pocket  mining  is  the  most  absorbing  and  interesting  pursuit  in  the  world; 
and  whoever  becomes  tinctured  with  it  will  remain  devoted  to  it  for  his  lifetime. 
There  are  many  instances  known  of  men  laboring  assiduously  at  it  for  ten,  twelve  and 


JACKSON  COIjNTY.  3J7 

more  years,  without  oiire  striking  a  color.  Its  rewards  are  ill-proportioned,  l)ut,  per- 
haps, as  certain  as  those  of  any  brancli  of  gold  mining.  The  greatest  pockets  known 
to  have  been  found  yielded  a  quarter  of  a  million  of  dollars,  the  two  eminent  examples 
which  occurred  in  Jackson  county  being  hardly  surpassed.  The  jiursuit  possesses  the 
distinguishing  and  obvious  advantage  that  it  can  be  carried  on  without  capital,  and  by 
the  exertions  of  a  single  individual  or  two  partners.  It  is  customarily  followed  by 
two  in  preference  to  any  other  number,  espeeiallj'  in  case  of  shaft  workings,  wherein 
one  man  loads  the  bucket  with  rock  while  the  other  turns  the  windlass  to  raise  it. 
With  only  the  ordinary  excavating  tools  and  explosives,  and  with  a  season's  supply  f 
provisions,  the  latter  perhaps  advanced  as  a  "grub  stake"  by  some  sjieculative  trailer, 
the  pocket  miner  is  enabled  to  pursue  his  calling,  often  with  good  results,  sometiir.os 
with  surpassing  luck,  and  frequently  without  the  slightest  return.  The  art  of  pocl;'.;t 
mining  consists  essentially  in  discovering  what  are  called  crossings — narrow  v  ins  of 
quartz  or  yellowish  "dike,"  so-called — and  tracing  these  to  their  intersectio.  with  an 
ordinary  quartz  vein,  at  which  jioint,  by  some  mysterious  dispensation  of  nature,  a 
pocket  is  usually  formed.  Elbows  are  bends  in  the  vein,  at  which  pockets  are  also  to 
be  looked  for.  The  intersection  is  arrived  at  by  means  of  a  shaft  or  a  tunnel  of  small 
diameter,  frequently  only  a  yard  or  so,  as  the  object  invariably  is  to  remove  as  little 
dirt  as  possible.  Having  calculated  where  the  pocket  probably  lies,  the  miner  arrives 
at  that  point  in  the  most  expeditious  and  least  laborious  way  possible,  proceeding, 
usually,  along  the  quartz  vein  in  order  to  test  by  means  of  the  pan  the  nearness  of  the 
gold  deposit.  The  "color"  is  usually  struck  at  a  distance  of  a  few  feet  and  thereafter 
all  the  earth  taken  out  is  jealously  examined  lest  the  pocket  be  passed  and  so  lost. 
When  finally  it  is  arrived  at,  the  gold  is  almost  entirely  contained  within  the  space  of 
a  few  cubic  feet,  and  frequently  of  a  single  bucketful.  A  panful  of  the  quartz,  usually 
ilecomposed  and  soft,  may  yield  a  thousand  dollars  or  more.  Thus  the  use  of  a  mill 
or  arastra  is  most  frequently  obviated,  a  single  hand  mortar  and  pestle  being  sufficient 
for  the  reduction  of  the  rock,  after  which  it  is  washed  in  a  pan.  Thus  unpretentiously, 
have  been  taken  out  some  pockets  containing  not  merely  ounces,  but  hundreds  of 
pounds  of  gold.  At  otlier  times  the  gold  is  found  disseminated  through  several  tons  of 
quartz,  of  varying  richness,  which  requires  the  use  of  heavier  machinery,  either  an 
arastra  or  stamp  mill.  Of  the  former  sort  was  the  great  Divoll  pocket,  found  in 
Sonora,  California,  which  yielded  over  $200,000  in  a  week,  and  of  the  other  class  was 
the  Fowler  ledge  at  Applegate,  which  was  more  productive,  but  more  slowly  extracted. 
Thus  systematically  is  pocket  quartz  mining  pursued  in  a  district  of  California  where 
a  thousand  miners,  an  industrious  and  worthy  class,  exist  by  it.  Without  their  pres- 
ence the  country  they  inhabit  would  be  almost  deserted;  for  they  sustain  trade  and  the 
small  number  of  agriculturists  residing  near  by.  There  are,  perhaps,  suflicient  oppor- 
tunities for  the  cultivation  of  their  art  in  the  quartz  deposits  of  Jackson  county  to 
support  an  equal  number  of  miners,  all  of  whom  would  contribute  to  the  material 
advancement  of  the  countjy.  Perhaps  some  may  reply.  There  is  no  opportunity;  the 
veins  have  all  been  prospected,  and  the  gold  removed.  To  this  we  answer,  The  quartz 
veins  have  in  no  case  been  worketl  far  below  the  surface ;  two  hundred  feet  or  there- 
abouts measures  the  deepest  shaft;   but   that  is  a  mere  scratch,  hardly  worth  consider- 


328  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

ing.  Possibly  the  veins  are  equally  rich  at  all  depths,  and  rich  pockets  may  exist  in 
the  lower  portions  of  veins  as  well  as  near  the  surface. 

The  quartz  veins  which  were  first  met  with  by  the  miners  frequently  were  found 
to  contain  pockets  of  decomposed  rock  with  gold,  which  being  accidentally  found  upon 
the  surface,  the  gold  was  extracted  by  crushing  in  a  mortar,  and  no  further  thought 
was  given  to  the  subject  of  quartz  containing  gold,  though  the  theory  of  that  mineral 
being  the  "  original  matrix"  of  the  precious  metal  had  had  previous  currencj'.  The 
idea  of  sinking  upon  and  'exploring  the  veins  was  not  entertained  until  the  quartz 
mania  broke  out  in  California  and  spread  across  the  border  into  Oregon.  The  first 
quartz  lead  which  was  prospected  in  Jackson  county  was  the  Hicks  lead,  on  the  left 
fork  of  Jackson  creek,  above  Farmer's  Flat.  Sonora  Hicks  and  brotlier,  the  discov- 
erers, worked  this  vein  in  a  necessarily  imperfect  way  and  took  out  some  gold,  getting, 
said  the  fSentinef,  $1,000  in  two  hours!  Theirs  was  a  pocket  vein,  and  no  mill  or 
arastra  was  thought  of  in  connection  with  it.  Maury,  Davis  and  Taylor  owned  the 
adjoining  claim,  and  put  up  an  arastra  upon  it,  the  first  apparatus  of  the  kind  in  Ore- 
gon. The  latter  firm  purchased  the  Hicks  claim  and  worked  its  rock  in  their  arastra. 
The  total  yield  of  the  original  claim,  the  first  quartz  lead  worked  in  Oregon,  was 
about  |2,o6o. 

The  next  quartz  discovery  of  importance  was  that  of  the  famous  Gold  Hill 
lode,  near  Fort  Lane.  This  took  place  in  January,  1860,  the  discoverer  being  one 
Graham,  known  as  "  Emigrant,"  who,  with  George  Ish,  James  Hayes,  Thomas  Chav- 
ner  and  John  Long,  as  partners,  located  this  astonishingly  rich  lode  and  began  to  work 
it.  There  was  an  abundance  of  float  rock,  found  lying  upon  the  surface  of 
the  hill,  which  yielded  fabulously  in  gold,  and  as  soon  as  the  news  of  the  strike 
became  known  the  whole  hill  was  staked  out  in  claims,  the  boundaries  marked  some- 
times by  stretching  ropes,  and  men  were  busily  at  work  picking  up  float  and  crushing 
it  in  mortars,  whereby  much  money  was  realized.  Mr.  Henry  Klijjpel,  the  father  of 
quartz  mining  in  Southern  Oregon,  found  a  piece  of  mixed  gold'  and  quartz  weighing 
thirteen  ounces,  which  yielded  $100  ;  and  others  reported  as  good  results.  Excitement 
ran  high.  Jacksonville,  previously  dull,  began  to  bloom.  Men  who  were  notoriously 
"  broke"  began  to  put  on  airs  of  wealth.  Money  circulated  with  facility  and  every  one 
partook,  in  spirit,  of  the  good  fortune.  A  daily  stage  was  put  on  the  route  between 
Jacksonville  and  the  new  mines,  which  was  crowded  with  sight-seers,  speculators  and 
jjrospectors.  An  eating  house  sprang  up  near  the  mine,  and  Morgan  Davis  inaugu- 
rated a  trading  post.  Quartz  stock  was  up ;  prospecting  seized  as  a  fever  upon  the 
whole  country  ;  and  fabulous  discoveries  were  rej^orted  in  every  direction.  As  for  the 
original  owners  of  the  Gold  Hill  lead  their  fortunes  seemed  boundless,  but  dissension 
broke  out  in  their  camp.  James  Hayes,  becoming  dissatisfied,  sold  out  to  Henry 
Klippel,  John  McLaughlin  and  Charles  Williams,  for  $5,000.  Graham  sold  also  to 
Messrs.  Klippel  and  John  E.  Ross,  for  the  same  sum,  the  use  of  the  money  costing 
those  gentlemen  ten  per  cent,  per  month.  Two  arastras  were  put  up  to  reduce  the 
quartz,  mules  being  the  motive  power,  and  armed  men  guarded  the  apparatus,  mine 
and  quartz  wagons  from  the  envious  and  predacious  crowd.  Weekly  clean-ups  were 
in  order  and  1,000  ounces  of  well  retorted  gold  was  frequently  divided  on  Saturdays. 
For  some  time  this  extraordinary  out-put  continued,  when  the  desires  of  the  owners 


"  a 
>  ? 

o  > 
en 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  329 

outran  the  capabilities  of  the  slow  and  primitive  mule-propelled  arastra,  and  a  stfuni 
(]uartz  mill  with  all  the  modern  improvements  was  resolved  u])on.  This,  the  first 
(juartz  mill  in  Jackson  county,  was  purchased  in  San  Francisco  and  shipped  to  the 
mine  by  the  firm  of  Klippel,  McLaughlin  &  Williams,  whose  undertaking  was  to 
crush  the  mining  company's  quartz  for  eight  dollars  per  ton,  themselves  retaining  own- 
ership in  the  mill.  The  mill  was  shipped  to  Gold  Hill  via  Scottsburg,  in  the  spring  of 
1860,  and  great  difficulty  was  experienced  in  transporting  the  heavy  boiler,  mortars, 
etc.  The  cost  of  freighting  was  about  $2,600,  and  the  total  cost  of  the  mill  when  in 
running  order  was  about  $12,000.  It  was  a  twelve-stamp  mill,  of  the  ordinary  type 
of  free  gold  mill,  amalgamating  in  battery,  and  crushing  Avet-  Its  first  performance 
was  the  reduction  of  one  hundred  tons  of  refuse  quartz,  thrown  aside  as  being  too  poor 
for  the  arastra  process,  which  yielded  one  hundred  dollars  per  ton.  The  mill  was 
located  at  the  Dardanelles,  and  here  the  rock  was  hauled  from  the  mine.  The  next 
run  was  on  ordinary  quartz  from  the  vein,  unassorted,  and  very  much  to  the  surprise 
of  all  it  yielded  only  three  dollars  per  ton — owing,  as  was  supposed,  to  defective 
amalgamation.  Another  run  was  carefully  conducted  for  six  weeks  with  a  result  of 
two  dollars  and  forty  cents  per  ton.  Public  confidence  in  the  mine  was  much  shaken. 
In  August  the  mill  and  mine  suspended  oj^erations.  In  the  subsequent  workings  of 
the  lode  very  little  has  been  realized.  The  total  product  of  this  famous  mine,  accord- 
ing to  Mr.  Henry  Klippel,  was  about  $150,000,  nearly  all  of  which  was  taken  from  a 
confined  space  in  the  mine,  only  twenty-two  feet  long  by  ten  in  height  and  the  thick- 
ness of  the  vein,  which  is  less  than  a  yard.  Repeated  tests  of  ore  from  other  portions 
of  it  failed  invariably,  because  the  mine  is  without  doubt  a  pocket  ledge,  and  only  to 
be  successfully  worked  as  such.  The  major  part  of  the  explorations  subsequently  per- 
formed consisted  in  sinking  a  shaft  130  feet  deep,  on  the  vein,  and  running  two  tunnels 
to  intersect  the  shaft.  A  great  many  small  prospect  holes  have  also  been  sunk,  but 
not  to  any  considerable  depth.  The  vein  has  all  of  the  characteristics  supposed  by 
"  mining  experts"  to  insure  permanency.  It  dips  somewhat  to  the  east,  has  a  thick, 
soft  "  gouge,"  smooth,  well-defined  walls,  and  other  presumed  valuable  qualifications. 
After  its  first  successful  working,  its  ownership  became  the  subject  of  a  notable  law- 
suit, that  of  Jacob  Ish  vs.  The  Gold  Hill  INIining  Company,  wherein  the  plaintiff 
sought  to  dispossess  defendants.  Ish  had  entered  the  land  embracing  the  mining 
])roperty  as  agricultural,  and  had  secured  a  2>atent  thereto,  the  company  renniining  in 
ignorance  thereof  until  its  issuance.  The  circuit  court  of  Jackson  county  sustained 
the  plaintiff",  but  upon  appeal  to  the  supreme  court  of  Oregon,  the  decision  of  the 
lower  court  was  reversed,  thereby,  says  Mr.  Klippel,  first  enunciating  the  principle 
that  the  state  courts  have  the  authority  to  annul  agricultural  land  grants  to  individuals 
in  conflict  with  prior  claims.  Messrs.  Klippel,  McLaughlin  &  Williams  lost  $11,0(X) 
on  the  mill.  After  they  had  demonstrated  its  want  of  success,  they  leased  it  to  a  i)arty 
of  Yreka  miners  who  were  equally  unsuccessful.  8ubse([ucntly  the  mill  was  sold 
for  $5,000  to  Jewitt  Brothers  and  Douthitt,  and  removed  to  the  Jewitt  mine  near 
Vannoy's  ferry,  where  it  did  good  service  for  awhile,  and  after  was  converted  into  a 
saw  mill.  The  machinery  was  dismantled,  and  some  years  later  the  engine  was 
removed  to  Parker's  saw  mill  on  Big  Butte  ci-eek,  where  it  is  still  in  use. 


330  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

The  Blackwell  lead  was  discovered  a  short  time  subsequent  to  the  fiiidiug  of  the 
Gokl  Hill  vein.  This  mine  proved  far  less  rich  than  the  other,  yielding  altogether  but 
a  few  thousand  dollars,  though  having  a  very  promising  appearance.  It  was  actively 
worked  and  produced  at  first  a  good  supply  of  beautiful  specimens  worth  some  thous- 
ands. In  the  summer  of  1860  and  subsequently,  it  was  owned  by  C.  C  Beekman, 
William  Hoffman,  Dr.  L.  S.  Thompson  and  U.  S.  Hayden,  who  made  a  contract  witii 
the  proprietors  of  the  Gold  Hill  quartz  mill  to  work  the  mine  and  crush  the  ore,  turn- 
ing over  to  the  owners  of  the  lead  the  amount  realized  above  necessary  expenses  of 
working.  The  deposit  of  quartz  gave  out,  however,  and  the  attempt  failed.  At  later 
times  the  Blackwell  lead  has  been  worked,  but  to  no  apparent  purpose.  In  1882  a 
rotary  quartz  crusher  was  put  up  at  the  mine  and  is  being  experimented  with.  The 
total  yield  of  the  Blackwell  has  been  from  ten  to  twenty  thousand  dollars. 

The  Jewitt  ledge,  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Rogue  river  in  township  thirty-six, 
south,  range  five,  west,  was  first  prospected  in  18(30  by  the  Jewitt  brothers,  who  had 
caught  the  quartz  fever  in  common  with  the  rest  of  the  population  of  Jackson  and 
Josephine  counties.  Indications  proving  favorable  thej^  associated  themselves  with 
D.  William  Douthitt,  of  Jacksonville,  and  began  to  work  their  vein.  They  were 
signally  successful ;  they  took  out  $40,000,  says  Mr.  Klippel,  and  having  exhausted  the 
deposit,  ceased  work.  Their  rock  paid  fifty  dollars  per  ton  at  the  first  clean-up,  the 
lode  being  six  feet  thick  at  the  working  point.  Subsequent  work  on  the  claim  has 
revealed  nothing  of  great  importance,  but  indications  are  said  to  be  favorable  for  another 
rich  strike.  In  1874  or  the  succeeding  year  Messrs.  Klippel  and  Beekman,  having 
possession  of  the  claim,  purchased  an  engine  and  boiler  and  set  up  two  steam  arastras 
to  work  the  rock.  But  owing  to  certain  causes  their  operations  failed  of  success.  The 
name  Elizabeth  was  given  to  the  ledge.  The  assay  value  of  the  rock  is  said  to  average 
twenty-one  dollars,  and  the  arastras  pay  twelve  dollars  per  ton,  the  vein's  average  width 
now  being  three  feet. 

Next  in  importance  stands  the  Swindeu  ledge,  near  Gold  Hill,  on  the  donation 
claim  of  John  Swindeu.  It  was  owned  by  several  partners  and  was  prospected  in  18G0, 
and  in  1862  and  1863  was  worked,  by  a  shaft,  the  quartz  being  reduced  in  an  arastra. 
The  vein  was  tolerably  rich,  at  least  in  one  spot,  and  paid  something  above  expenses, 
it  is  thought,  though  the  cost  of  working  was  considerable.  The  ledge  is  two  and  a 
half  feet  thick  and  is  still  thought  valuable.  In  the  same  mining  region  are  several 
other  veins  which  have  been  considerably  worked  and  are  still  regarded  as  valuable. 
The  McDonough  and  Shump  veins  are  of  this  class.  On  Foot's  creek  quite  a  number 
of  quartz  locations  have  been  made  from  which  a  considerable  amount  of  wealth  has 
been  extracted,  with  a  first-rate  prospect  for  future  success.  In  1860  Foot's  creek 
(piartz  mines  were  reported  to  be  paying  handsomely.  The  rock  was  described  as  dark 
and  soft,  with  specks  of  gold  visible  throughout.  Johnson's,  and  Lyons  and  Peebler's 
ledges  were  particularly  successful,  according  to  newspaper  reports.  In  1861  these 
leads  were  mentioned  as  having  fallen  off"  in  richness,  only  ten  dollars  per  ton  being- 
realized.  On  Jackson  creek,  especially  on  the  right  branch,  several  veins  of  quartz  of 
considerable  promise  have  at  times  been  prospected,  the  greater  part  of  the  work  being- 
done  in  1860,  directly  following  the  Gold  Hill  discovery,  and  at  a  time  that  we  may 
designate  as  the  epoch  of  quartz  mining,  since  at  no  previous  or  subsequent  time  have 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  331 

there  been  any  developmeuts  to  compare  with  those  which  took  place  that  year.  Four 
locations  were  found  on  Shively  gulch,  from  each  of  which  considerable  gold  was  taken. 
The  principal  of  these  was  the  Holman  ledge,  which  yielded  a  total  of  about  $10,000 
a.>^  reported  by  credible  witnesses.  The  rock  from  this  mine  was  worked  in  the  Jack- 
son creek  quartz  mill,  situated  at  the  forks  of  Jackson  creek.  This  mill  was  erected  by 
Henry  Pape,  who  came  from  Yreka  for  the  purpose  and  was  built  in  the  summer  of 
LS()0,  at  a  time  when  quartz  excitement  ran  high.  Mr.  Pape  had  contracted  to  crush 
(piartz  from  eight  or  nine  ledges,  on  the  creek,  to  the  amount  of  1000  tons  for  eight 
dollars  per  ton,  provided  tlie  rock  paid  that  much.  The  first  run  was  from  the  Holman, 
eighty  or  one  hundred  tons  of  it  yielding  forty-two  dollars  per  ton.  From  a  small  lot 
taken  from  the  Davenport  claim  on  the  right  branch,  seventy-five  dollars  per  ton  was 
obtained ;  but  this  mine  like  all  the  rest  was  sjoeedily  exhausted.  Mr.  Pape  ran  the 
mill  (eight  stamps,  steam)  for  four  months,  at  the  end  of  that  time  selling  two-thirds  of 
it  to  a  company  of  several  persons,  by  whom  it  was  run  some  months  longer.  In  rather 
less  than  a  year  from  its  inception  it  was  changed  into  a  saw  mill,  and  at  a  later  date 
the  battery  was  in  use  on  Wagner  creek,  where  Messrs.  Anderson  arid  Rockfellow  were 
working  a  quartz  lead.     The  engine  was  put  into  a  saw  mill  on  Forest  creek. 

Another  mill  was  put  rather  later  on  by  Charles  Drew  and  Samuel  Bowtlen,  a 
small  affair  and  unsuccessful.  It  was  located  up  the  right  branch  of  Jackson  creek  and 
in  tlie  vicinity  of  several  promising  veins  mainly  in  Timber  and  Shively  gulches. 
This  mill  differed  from  the  others  in  having  an  amalgamating  pan  and  settler,  it  being- 
supposed  that  there  was  a  notable  amount  of  silver  in  the  veins,  which  would  be  lost  in 
ordinary  battery  amalgamation.  The  mill,  after  a  checkered  career  of  two  or  more 
years,  was  taken  down  and  the  boiler  is  now  in  use  at  Karewski's  flour  mill  at  Jackson- 
ville, while  a  portion  of  the  battery  lies  upon  the  ground  not  far  away. 

In  1860  Messrs.  Johnson,  Cupps  and  Woods  possessed  a  lode  U2)0n  the  right 
branch,  from  which  fifty  ounces  of  gold  were  taken  in  one  day.  Afterwards  Mr.  Elder 
])uichased  the  interest  of  the  two  latter  and  with  Johnson,  a  most  persistent  quartz 
miner  who  still  pursues  his  chosen  calling,  erected  an  arastra  near  their  claim,  driven 
by  an  over-shot  water  wheel.  Boatman  and  Sheets  carried  on  work  upon  a  vein  in 
Shively  gulch,  with  some  success.  Elder,  Johnson's  partner,  was  a  member  of  the 
tiiin  to  whom  H.  Pape  sold  his  quartz  mill,  the  remaining  partners  being  Dr.  (Tanung, 
nfterwards  the  coroner  of  Jackson  county,  and  three  Germans. 

The  extraordinary  quartz  mine  known  by  the  several  names  of  the  Fowler  loile, 
the  Applegate  quartz  mine,  and  the  Steamboat  ledge  is  situated  in  township  40,  range 
4  west,  on  the  right  foi'k  of  Big  Applegate,  called  Carberry  fork,  about  200  yards 
below  the  summit  of  the  divide  separating  that  stream  from  Brushy  creek,  and  is 
seventeen  miles  by  road  south  of  the  site  of  the  trading  post  once  owned  by  \V.  W. 
Fowler  and  Keeler,  on  Applegate  creek.  It  was  discovered  in  February,  1860,  by 
Frank  Fitterman,  William  Billups  and  otliers,  who  afterwards  received  into  the  firm 
Captain  Barnes,  John  Ely,  William  P.  Ferris,  W.  W.  Fowler  and  G.  W.  Keeler,  the 
two  latter  obtaining  their  interest  in  consequence  of  having  furnished  the  "grub  stake" 
by  which  the  discoverers  were  enabled  to  prospect.  The  rock  promised  fairly  at  first 
and  was  merely  explored  a  little,  until  an  arastra  was  completed  in  June,  1860,  and 
the  lode  regularly  opened.      For  several  months  only  an  average  yield  wa-;  recorded, 


332  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

until  the  begiuning  of  the  following  year,  when  the  extremely  rich  portion  of  the  ledge 
was  found.  Then  the  full  wealth  of  the  deposit  was  developed,  and  an  enormous  yield 
was  obtained.  In  one  week  in  February,  1861,  money  enough  was  made  to  pay  all 
previous  expenses  of  the  mine.  Thirty-five  tons  of  quartz  yielded  $350  per  ton,  and 
fifty  tons,  comprising  the  next  lot,  produced  $18,500,  or  $370  per  ton.  But  these 
yields  were  eclipsed  by  successive  ones,  for  the  newspapers  of  the  day  spoke  of  $10,000 
as  the  income  for  one  week,  1,470  ounces  as  the  product  of  another,  and  $2,352  as  the 
average  yield  jaer  ton  of  the  rock  worked  in  March,  1861.  Four  arastras  had  been  put 
up  and  other  improvements  were  resolved  upon,  when  Captain  Barnes  and  Ely  sold 
out  their  interest  to  Fowler  for  $6,000.  Ferris  had  previously  sold  for  a  comfortable 
sum,  leaving  the  seven  shares  divided  as  follows:  Barues  and  Ely,  three  shares;  D. 
L.  Hopkins,  one;  McKay  and  O'Brien,  one;  Fowler  and  Keeler,  one;  Fowler, 
Anderson  and  James  T.  Glenn,  one.  Mr.  Samuel  Taylor,  a  miner  of  experience,  became 
superintendent  in  November,  1861,  and  retained  that  position  for  nearly  two  years, 
during  which  the  yield  was  about  $190,000,  making  with  the  previous  yield  a  total  of 
$280,000.  Subsequently  about  $10,000  was  taken  out,  and  to  this  should  be  added 
about  $25,000  supposed  to  have  been  realized  by  the  O'Brien  companj-,  a  rival  firm 
which  was  working  the  same  lead  on  the  other  side  of  the  divide.  Thus  the  whole 
yield  of  the  lead  may  be  summed  up  at  $315,000,  which  is  the  amount  reported  by 
Superintendent  Taylor.  After  using  the  arastras  for  a  time,  a  four-stamp  mill  was 
erected,  but  the  supply  of  rock  gave  out  before  it  could  be  utilized.  The  above- 
mentioned  firm  of  O'Brien  &  Company  took  up  their  claim  upon  the  same  lead,  which 
infringed  upon  the  original  company  and  produced  a  lawsuit  of  great  celebrity  and 
expensiveness.  The  Fowler  company  claimed  a  portion  of  land  supposed  to  overlie 
the  vein,  but  which  was  found  not  to  do  so  except  for  a  small  portion  of  its  length. 
The  other  company  ascertained  the  defect  in  their  rival's  position,  and  took  advantage 
of  it  by  filing  an  adverse  claim.  In  the  courts,  after  protracted  litigation,  the  Fowler 
company  won,  after  running  tunnels  and  doing  other  work  to  demonstrate  the  truth  of 
their  claims.  They  got  possession  of  the  whole  lead,  but  subsequently  took  out  very 
little  gold,  the  deposit  being  pretty  nearly  exhausted.  The  mine  was  abandoned  by 
the  owners  but  afterwards  re-located  by  Mr.  Cook,  who  has  made  efforts  to  prove  the 
existence  of  yet  more  wealth,  but  thus  far  without  success.  He  has  tunneled  about  300 
feet  without  noticeable  results,  but  still  works  and  hopes. 

This  concludes  the  effective  history  of  quartz  mining  in  Jackson  county,  all 
developments  subsequent  to  1861  having  an  abortive  cast,  and  being  inconsequential  in 
comparison  with  the  operations  of  1860-1.  About  1866  quite  an  excitement  was 
occasioned  by  rejjorted  discoveries  of  rich  silver  ore  in  the  hills  near  Willow  Springs. 
Enormous  percentages  were  returned  by  assayers  and  people  without  distinction  of  age, 
race  or  color  hastened  to  locate  claims,  256  of  these  being  recorded.  The  Jacksonville 
Reporter  caught  the  infection  and  in  an  earnest  editorial  uttered  the  opinion  that  the 
new  silver  mines  of  Jackson  county  were  incomparably  richer  than  those  of  the  Coni- 
stock  lode  in  Nevada,  and  "  if  properly  worked  will  produce  enough  of  wealth  for 
every  man,  woman  and  child  in  Oregon."  In  conclusion  the  editor  expressed  the 
heartfelt  wish  that  there  should  be  no  legal  squabbling  about  the  ownership  of  claims. 


S' 


it 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  333 

Litigation   proved   umieceswiry ;   and   within   a   few   months   "every  man,  woman  and 
child  in  Oregon"  knew  that  the  silver  veins  contained  no  silver. 

Of  a  better  sort  is  the  Esther  mine  on  Upper  Grave  creek.  This  mining  pro[)erty 
lies  in  a  belt  of  valuable  quartz  ledges,  and  is  thought  to  be  a  good  mine,  althongli 
undeveloped.  The  possessors  are  the  Messrs.  Browning,  father  and  son,  who 
have  labored  for  years  to  get  the  mine  in  shape  to  produce.  It  is  on  the  right 
bank  of  Grave  creek,  a  mile  from  the  stream,  and  the  vein  is  from  one  to  two  feet 
thick.  There  was  a  time — about  1876 — when  the  Esther  was  the  foremost  min- 
ing pro^oerty  in  Jackson  county;  but  lack  of  skill  or  capital,  or  both,  have 
injured  its  successful  working.  A  mill  containing  four  stamps,  driven  by  water,  was 
put  up  some  half  dozen  years  ago,  and  later  on  a  joint-stock  company  secured  the 
property  and  worked  it  somewhat,  running  for  two  years  with  considerable  success. 
The  rock,  partaking  of  the  milling  character,  yielded  twelve  or  fourteen  dollars  per 
ton. 


CHAPTER    XL. 


THE    EARLY    PIONEERS 


The  Earliest  Pioneers  in  Jackson  County-The  First  Impressions  -A  Lovely  Valley -Contrasts -The  Southern 
Route  Settlers  in  185 1  -The  First  Land  Claims  Taken-Discovery  of  Gold  at  Rich  Gulch— Rapid  immi- 
gration  of  Miners  -A   Rush     Roads. 

The  early  pioneers  of  Kogue  river  valley  have  with  singular  unanimity  and 
earnestness  borne  witness  to  the  sensations  with  which  their  hearts  were  thrilled 
Avhen  they  first  set  eyes  upon  the  fair  region  of  which  we  now  speak.  Those 
tired  and  travel-worn  men  and  women  had  set  out  for  the  Pacific  shore  as  for  a 
laud  of  promise,  and  throughout  the  long  and  terribly  wearying  journey  had 
traveled  slowly  toward  the  setting  sun,  intent  only  upon  reaching  the  country  so  often 
but  dimly  described,  and  from  whence  such  romantic  and  charming  accounts  had  come. 
They  watched  the  passage  of  time  while  days  lengthened  into  weeks  and  months,  and 
the  slow  beasts  of  burden  dragged  the  loaded  wagons,  the  emigrant's  shifting  home, 
and  man  and  beast  alike  felt  the  heavy  ills  of  life.  The  desolate  and  never-ending 
plains,  the  drouth,  the  imminence  of  death  from  thirst  and  hunger,  tiie  ever-present 
fear  of  hostile  Indians,  and  the  terrible  isolation  and  loneliness  of  the  route,  weighed 
upon  the  souls  of  even  the  strongest,  and  many  laid  down  their  heavy  burdens  and  sank 
to  rest  far  from  the  goal  they  had  struggled  to  reach.  Perhaps  there  never  lived  a 
class   of  men   and    women    i>f   such   strong   and   self-reliant    character  as   these  early 


334  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

pioneers.  They  were  cradled  in  hardship,  spending  their  early  years  on  the  border  of 
the  then  nttermost  west.  To  jienetrate  into  unexplored  wilds  and  there  subdue  the 
earth,  and  lay  the  foundation  of  a  state  was  to  them  a  second  nature — a  desire  trans- 
mitted from  their  j^arents,  whose  glorious  characteristic  was  also  to  advance  the  bounds 
of  progress  and  civilization,  and  make  glad  the  waste  places  where  man  had  never 
previously  trod.  Theirs  was  the  mission  to  keep  forever  in  the  fore-front  of  the  battle 
which  man  is  ever  waging  with  the  forces  of  nature,  and  from  the  wildest  regions 
accessible  to  man  to  send  back  the  glad  news  that  freedom  had  found  yet  another 
breathing  place.  Of  such  descent,  and  of  such  aspirations,  were  the  jiioneers  of  Jack- 
son county,  and  how  they  fulfilled  their  self-appointed  task  these  pages  will  briefly 
and  imperfectly  tell. 

After  the  straits  to  which  a  six-months'  land  journey  across  the  most  desolate  part  of 
North  America  had  brought  them,  how  welcome  to  their  vision  must  have  been  the 
sight  of  the  grassy  plains,  the  wooded  slopes,  and  tree-fringed  water  courses  of  Southern 
Oregon.  How  deep  the  song  of  thankfulness  that  arose  from  their  breasts  !  Possibly 
the  divine  artificer  could  have  created  a  more  beautiful,  a  more  fruitful  valley,  but 
doubtless  he  never  did.  If  we  may  believe  those  pioneers,  the  country  was  one  of 
primitive  wildness,  yet  of  obvious  fertility  and  productiveness.  The  wild  grasses  grew 
in  profusion,  covering  everywhere  the  land  as  with  a  garment  of  the  softest  and  most 
luxuriant  verdure.  The  hill  sides  were  concealed  beneath  this  marvelous  plant  growth 
which  hid  nature's  ugliest  scars  from  view.  The  rich  soil,  as  yet  unimpaired  in  fer- 
tility, sent  up  the  stalks  to  the  height  of  a  man  or  of  a  horse.  Wild  berries  flourished  ; 
the  beautiful  mountain  streams,  clear  as  glass  and  of  most  refreshing  coolness,  ran, 
unpolluted  by  the  dirt  from  mines.  The  wild  deer  and  elk,  grazed  undisturbed  in  the 
open  meadow,  or  sought  the  shade  of  their  leafy  coverts  and  gazed  out  upon  their 
quiet  world.  The  hill  tops,  now  mainly  covered  by  dense  thickets  of  manzanita, 
madroue  and  evergreen  brush,  were  then  devoid  of  bushes  and  trees  because  of  the 
Indian  habit  of  burning  over  the  surface  in  order  to  remove  obstructions  to  their  seed 
and  acorn  gathering.  In  the  streams  roved  the  trout,  the  salmon-trout  and  the  salmon, 
the  favorite  sustenance  of  the  Indians.  Some  scattered  villages  of  natives  formed 
the  only  fixed  population  of  the  beautiful  Rogue  river  valley,  which  were  located  near 
Table  Rock,  on  Ashland  creek,  Little  Butte  creek,  and  at  a  few  other  points,  where  in 
after  years  they  struggled  manfully  against  the  incoming  tide  of  white  settlers. 

Such  was  the  aspect  of  the  lovely  valley  of  Rogue  river  when  first  beheld  by  the 
immigrants  at  the  close  of  their  arduous  journey.  The  current  of  emigration  which, 
setting  at  first  for  the  vale  of  the  Willamette,  had  been  partially  diverted  toward  the 
gold  fields  of  California,  suifered  a  still  further  change  by  the  beginning  of  1852, 
when  the  gold  placers  of  the  Rogue  river  country  were  discovered  and  the  town  of 
Jacksonville  was  founded.  To  thoroughly  understand  this  change  it  is  necessary  to 
review  a  portion  of  the  preceding  events.  Tlie  Willamette  valley,  we  have  said,  was 
tlie  objective  point  of  the  stream  of  immigration,  prior  to  the  discovery  of  gold  in 
California.  Since  1843  the  fertile  region  of  the  Willamette  had  received  constant 
though  small  accessions  of  population,  the  most  of  whom,  starting  from  the  border 
states  and  territories  of  the  Mississippi  valley,  found  their  way  by  long  and  toilsome 
iourueys  to  the  Columbia   region.  The  Dalles   being  a  point  upon  their  route.     The 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  3;!5 

Cascade  rauge  lying  to  the  east  of  tlie  infont  settlements  upon  the  AVillaniette,  as  yet 
had  not  been  explored,  and  was  supposed  to  present  insuperable  obstacles  to  travel. 
To  the  south  of  the  settlements  lay  Southern  Oregon,  known  only  to  a  few  adventurous 
spirits  who  had  traveled  its  wilds  and  brought  back  reports  of  the  untamable  ferocity 
of  its  inhabitants.  The  condition  of  things  was  such  as  to  prevent  the  Rogue  river 
valley  and  the  neighboring  regions  from  being  explored,  although  no  doubt  eveu  at 
that  early  day  its  fertility  and  desirability  were  partly  understood  and  somewhat 
spoken  of.  In  another  part  of  this  volume  the  experiences  of  the  trappers  and  earlier 
travelers  through  this  region  have  been  set  forth  as  far  as  they  relate  to  the  character 
of  the  Indian  inhabitants,  and  some  of  the  more  notable  expeditions  between  the  Wil- 
lamette and  California  liave  been  mentioned.  Of  a  more  important  character  was  the 
expedition  of  the  Applegates,  in  1846,  in  search  of  a  route  by  which  the  emigrants, 
now  coming  overland  in  increasing  numbers,  could  reach  the  Willamette  more  easily 
and  quickly  than  by  The  Dalles  route.  This  journey  of  discovery,  previously  refen-ed 
to  herein,  resulted  in  opening  a  passage  by  which  many  thousands  of  people  entered 
Oregon  and  California,  it  being  widely  known  under  the  name  of  the  southern  route, 
or  south  road.  In  the  year  of  its  discovery  a  considerable  number  of  people  entered 
Oregon,  passing  through  the  Rogue  river  valley,  the  line  of  travel  entering  at  the  head 
of  Bear  creek  and  following  the  old  California  and  Oregon  trail  from  the  Siskiyous 
down  Bear  or  Stewart's  creek  to  the  Rogue  river,  and  keeping  along  the  south  side  of 
that  stream  to  a  point  one  and  a  half  miles  southwest  of  the  present  village  of  Grant's 
Pass,  where  it  crosses  the  river,  and  turning  north,  proceeded  by  a  hilly  and  uneven 
course  northward  to  the  Canyon,  on  the  southern  border  of  Douglas  county,  there 
entering  the  Umpqua  valley.  Returning  from  Fort  Hall  the  Applegate  party  acted 
as  guides  for  the  first  emigrants  who  passed  over  the  route,  their  way  taking  them 
through  the  country  of  the  Modoc  and  the  Piute  tribes,  who  were  very  troublesome, 
murdering  one  of  the  white  men  at  Lost  river  and  stealing  some  stock. 

During  the  progress  of  the  Cayuse  war,  which  followed  the  massacre  of  Doctor 
Whitman,  near  Walla  Walla,  in  1847,  Governor  Abernethy  wished  to  send  a  message 
to  the  commandant  of  the  United  States'  forces  in  California,  soliciting  aid  in  prose- 
cuting hostilities.  Jesse  Applegate  was  chosen  as  messenger,  and  provided  with  an 
escort  of  sixteen  men — Levi  Scott,  John  Scott,  William  Scott,  Walter  ^lonteith, 
Thomas  Monteith,  A.  G.  Robinson,  William  Gilliam,  Joseph  Waldo,  James  Campljell, 
James  Fields,  John  Minto,  James  Lemon,  John  Disc,  Solomon  Tethero  and  George 
Hibbler.  The  party  set  out  from  La  Creole  (Rickreal)  in  Polk  county,  and  arrived  at 
the  Siskiyou  mountains  about  the  first  of  February,  1848.  Here,  instead  of  pa.ssing 
directly  across  into  California,  they  undertook  to  travel  eastward  for  a  distance,  and 
were  lost  in  the  snow.  Half  of  the  party  turned  back,  taking  all  tlie  horses,  while 
Jesse  Applegate  with  eight  others  pushed  on  by  the  aid  of  snowshoes.  They,  too,  luul 
to  succumb  to  the  depth  of  the  snow  and  the  rigor  of  the  sea.son,  and  turning  noi-th- 
ward  they  overtook  the  others  at  the  South  Umpqua  river,  and  proceeded  witii  \\\vm 
to  the  Willamette.  No  difiiculties  were  ex[)erienced  on  account  of  the  Indians,  nor 
were  the  latter  molested. 

In  1848,  1841)  and  18;30  tlu'  Rogue  river  valley  was  increasingly  tniviTsi'd.  luiiinly 
by  parties  of  gold  seekers  on  their  wiiy  to  Californi;i  nr   returning  to   the  Willnniette. 


336  SOUTHERN  OREGON 

These  men,  iutent  chiefly  uj)ou  the  acquisition  of  gold,  were  not  of  a  class  to  do  more 
than  slightly  note  the  beauties  of  nature  as  exemplified  in  the  luxuriant  fauna  and 
flora  of  the  charming,  yet  wild  and  dangerous,  region  through  which  they  had  to  pass. 
Thus  far  not  only  were  no  settlements  made  in  Jackson  county,  but  no  reason  existed 
for  such  settlements,  excepting  the  obvious  one  of  the  country's  fertility.  It  was  too 
isolated  for  the  abode  of  an  agricultural  community,  and  possessed  the  disadvantage  of 
being  occupied  by  hostile  Indians,  whereas  the  Willamette,  whose  farming  industries 
were  the  most  extensive  on  the  coast,  was  devoid  of  disaffected  aborigines.  The  time 
was  not  yet  ripe  for  the  advent  of  the  race  of  pioneers,  who  were  to  change  the  scene 
of  primitive  wildness  into  the  abode  of  industrious  humanity,  and  build  upon 
the  haunts  of  wild  beasts  and  wilder  Indians  the  foundations  of  a  peaceful  and  pros- 
perous society. 

In  1851  began  the  settlement  of  the  county,  or  more  properly  speaking,  it  then 
began  to  be  looked  upon  as  a  jwssible  home  for  settlers.  In  the  spring  and  summer  of 
that  year  three  houses  or  stations  became  occupied  permanently  by  white  men,  these 
being  the  three  ferries  on  Rogue  river,  namely.  Long's,  Evans'  and  Perkins'.  Other 
than  these  there  were  no  houses  or  cabins  between  the  South  Umpqua  and  Yreka;  or, 
in  other  words,  Jackson  county  was  uninhabited  by  whites,  except  for  the  few  em- 
ployes of  the  ferries  and  the  transient  travelers  who  might  be  upon  the  road,  or  rather 
trail,  leading  from  California  to  the  Columbia.  Curry  county,  the  westernmost  of  the 
tier  of  three,  was  likewise  uninhabited,  receiving  its  first  white  population  on  the 
ninth  of  June  of  that  year,  when   Port  Orford  was  taken   possession  of 

The  beauty,  healthfulness  and  fertility  of  the  valley  had  not  proved  sufficient 
incentives  to  induce  the  immigrants  to  pause  here  in  their  journey  and  occupy  the 
pleasant  land,  for  causes  which  we  have  slightly  touched  upon,  and  it  was  reserved  for 
the  tremendous  attractive  power  of  gold  to  cause  the  valley  to  become  jjeopled,  an  effect 
which  was  brought  about  very  rapidly,  as  we  shall  see.  In  the  spring  of  1851  travel 
became  more  than  ever  impeded  by  the  depredations  of  the  Indians,  and  organized 
efforts  became  necessary  in  order  to  keep  open  the  trail  then  becoming  much  used. 
Murders  and  robberies  were  frequently  reported,  and  Governor  Gaines,  ex-officio  super- 
intendent of  Indian  affairs  for  Oregon,  made  a  treaty  with  the  Indians  in  midsummer, 
his  action  being  preceded  by  a  short  but  effective  campaign  by  United  States  troops  and 
volunteers  combined  against  the  braves  of  Sam  and  Joe,  wherein  the  natives  were  badly 
beaten.  The  details  of  these  op)erations  having  been  set  forth  in  the  account  of  the 
Indian  wars,  the  reader  is  referred  thereto  for  the  details  and  effects  of  the  campaign. 
Directly  following  the  close  of  hostilities  Judge  A.  A.  Skinner  came  to  the  valley  in 
pursuance  of  his  duties  as  Indian  agent,  and  took  up  his  residence  southeast  of  Table 
Rock,  on  a  donation  claim  supposed  to  have  been  the  first  taken  in  Jackson  county,  or 
in  the  whole  Rogue  river  valley,  for  that  matter.  His  house  was  the  first  one  built  on 
Bear  creek  and  was  a  small  log  structure.  With  Judge  Skinner  resided  the  govern- 
ment interpreter,  Chesley  Gray,  who  took  a  donation  claim  adjoining  and  built  a  house 
upon  it  in  order  to  comply  with  the  law  governing  the  holding  of  donation  claims.  He 
.  preferred  to  reside  at  the  agent's,  however.  The  Skinner  claim  is  now  the  property  of 
John  B.  Wrisley,  while  Isaac  Constant  owns  the  Gray  claim.  Moses  Hopwood  came 
from  the  Willamette  with  the  oldest   of  his   nine  children  and  settled  upon  the  well 


4^  i^ 


ill  |"i 
I  111! 


Douglas  Country. 


^G-ltrM.fionriAfifi>,0^- 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  337 

kuown  Hop  wood  farm  on  Bear  creek,  near  the  two  just  mentioned,  filing  his  claims 
thereto  on  Christmas,  1851.  At  about  the  same  date  Kennedy  and  Dean  settled  on 
the  Willow  Springs  farm.  Several  other  settlers  came  in  at  nearly  the  same  time,  and 
early  in  the  year  1852  Judge  Kice  occupied  the  location  next  to  Skinner's  and  brought 
his  wife  and  a  small  family,  the  lady  probably  being  the  second  of  her  sex  to  locate 
permanently  in  the  valley.  The  Eice  place  has  been  occupied  by  the  family  ever 
since,  and  is  now  owned  by  the  widow.  Mrs.  Lawless  possessed  the  distinction  of  being 
the  first  white  woman  settler,  coming  some  time  in  the  early  part  of  1852.  Directly 
after  his  arrival  Mr.  Hopwood  brought  the  wife  and  the  remainder  of  his  famih^  from 
Portland,  and  set  about  farming  on  a  small  scale,  being  the  pioneer  of  the  farmers  of 
Rogue  river  valley.  In  December,  1851,  Stone  and  Poyntz  took  up  their  land  claims 
at  the  crossing  of  Wagner  creek  and  resided  there  for  a  short  time,  returning  to  their 
ftunilies  in  the  East  in  1852.  An  old  man  named  Lewis  took  a  claim  adjoining  theirs, 
but  going  to  the  Willamette  valley  for  a  stay  of  several  mouths,  his  claim  was  "jumped" 
in  his  absence  and  he  failed  to  recover  it.  A  little  later  than  Poyntz,  Stone  and  Lewis, 
L.  J.  C.  Duncan,  now  of  Jacksonville,  located  a  claim  at  Wagner  creek,  sometime  in 
December,  1851.  Chris.  Thompson  also  came  before  the  beginning  of  1852  and  accord- 
ingly ranks  as  one  of  the  very  earliest  of  the  pioneers. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  the  Mountain  House  claim  was  taken  up  and  here 
resided  Barron,  Russell  and  Gibbs.  On  the  Tolman  place  were  Patrick  Dunn,  Thomas 
Smith  and  Frederick  Alberding.  The  following  white  persons  were  residing  in  the 
Rogue  river  valley  on  New  Year's  day,  1852  :  Major  Barron,  John  Gibbs,  Russell, 
Thomas  Smith,  Patrick  Dunn,  Frederick  Alberding  (R.  H.  Hargadine  came  to  Ash- 
land in  January),  Stone,  Poyntz,  Lewis,  L.  J.  C.Duncan,  (E.K.Anderson  and  brother 
came  to  Wagner  creek  in  January),  Samuel  Colver,  Judge  Skinner,  Chesley  Gray, 
Sykes  and  two  others  residing  at  Skinner's ;  Moses  Hopwood  and  two  sons,  X.  C.  Dean, 
Bills  and  son,  Davis  Evans  and  one  or  two  others  at  Evans'  ferry ;  Perkins,  and  prob- 
ably one  assistant.  Total,  twenty-seven  or  twenty-eight  persons,  all  males.  At  Per- 
kins' ferry  was  a  log  house,  supposed  to  have  been  the  first  one  erected  on  Rogue  river, 
which  was  fortified  to  resist  Indian  attacks,  but  notwithstanding  his  fortress  Perkins 
was  obliged  to  leave  during  the  latter  part  of  1851,  fearing  the  natives. 

On  the  present  Chavner  place  near  Gold  Hill,  an  old  man  named  Bills  luul  located, 
with  his  son.  These  men  experienced  great  difficulty  with  the  other  whites,  being 
charged  with  having  conspired  with  the  Indians  to  murder  all  the  settlers.  It  is  not 
very  clear  whether  one  or  both  of  them  became  objects  of  suspicion,  but  it  seems  that 
they  had  to  leave  the  country.  One  account  is  to  the  effect  that  the  young  man  was 
detected  in  the  conspiracy  in  his  father's  absence,  and  was  arrested  by  the  miners  on 
Big  Bar;  while  others  recount  that  the  old  man  was  the  suspecteil  party.  Forty  pairs 
of  l)lankets,  some  allege,  was  the  price  demanded  for  his  surrender  by  Sam  and  Joe 
with  whose  people  the  culprit  had  taken  refuge,  and  this  Judge  Skinner  paid. 

In  January,  1852,  tlie  placers  on  Jackson  creek  were  discovered  by  Sykes,  Clug- 
gage,  Poole  and  others,  and  an  extensive  immigration  of  miners  began  immediately  on 
the  dissemination  of  the  news.  In  ^March  it  was  estimated  that  from  100  to  150  men 
were  working  in  the  vicinity  of  Jacksonville,  mainly  on  Rich  gulch  and  the  right 
liranch  of    Jackson   creek.      James  Skinnoi-,   nejihew  of   the  Judge,  was  mnong  the 


338  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

lucky  ones,  and  took  out  a  decent  fortune  within  a  few  weesk.  Later  in  the  season 
"  Old  man  Shively,"  working  in  the  gulch  which  bears  his  name,  accumvilated  !|oO,- 
000  and  set  out  for  home,  guarding  the  box  containing  his  wealth  with  a  drawn 
revolver.  At  Big  Bar  a  party  of  eight  or  ten  men  had  early  worked  with  rockers, 
and  in  the  summer  at  the  time  of  the  Indian  disturbances,  wherein  Lamerick  and  his 
company  distinguished  themselves,  there  were  at  times  some  hundred  or  more  workers 
on  the  bar.  Prospectors  had  begun  at  once  to  examine  all  the  region,  moving  out 
from  the  Jackson  creek  diggings  as  a  center,  and  prospecting  every  gulch,  streamlet 
and  hill  side  for  many  miles.  The  miners  who  in  the  preceding  year  had  worked, 
on  Josephine  and  Canyon  creeks,  in  what  is  now  Josephine  county,  had  mostly 
deserted  those  diggings  and  betaken  themselves  to  other  scenes;  but  many  of  these 
now  returned  to  Jackson  county  and  engaged  in  mining.  At  an  early  date  gold- 
bearing  gravel  was  struck  at  the  present  Cameron  place,  on  Applegate  creek,  and 
shortly  after  Forest  creek  was  invaded  by  a  small  army  of  miners,  who  worked  with 
excellent  results  amid  its  sands.  The  greater  part  of  the  mining  was  done  with  the 
rocker,  scarcity  of  water  preventing  the  use  of  toms.  Foot's  creek  became  a  noted 
mining  ground,  hardly  second  to  Forest  creek.  By  the  middle  of  the  summer  of  1852, 
not  less  than  a  thousand  miners  had  arrived  in  the  valleys  of  Kogue  river  and  its 
tributaries,  and  prospected  nearly  every  spot  where  gold  was  likely  to  be  found.  The 
wave  which  had  swept  over  California  and  laid  bare  its  mineral  treasures,  was  now 
expending  itself  upon  the  far  northern  verge  of  the  great  auriferous  belt,  and  its  first 
low  wash  had  crept  up  the  foothills  of  Southern  Oregon,  the  forerunner  of  the  mighty 
human  sea  which  was  to  follow. 

Thus  begun  the  active  progress  and  development  of  Jackson  county.  With  the  open- 
ing of  the  placers,  and  the  influx  of  miners,  there  sprang  up  a  demand  for  the  neces- 
saries of  life,  from  whence  trade  took  root  and  flourished,  and  merchants  and  packers 
entered  upon  their  occuj^ations.  The  chief  seat  of  trade  and  activity  was  Jacksonville, 
which  place  quickly  assumed  the  appearance  and  reality  of  a  flourishing  mining  center^ 
and  was  frequented  by  the  workers  from  all  the  neighboring  diggings.  Provisions  for 
such  a  throng  were,  of  course,  difficult  to  procure,  being  of  distant  production  and  con- 
sequent high  price.  Long  trains  of  animals,  mostly  mules,  performed  the  important 
and  arduous  service  of  bringing,  from  the  Willamette  valley  and  from  Scottsburg,  the 
necessaries  of  life  most  in  demand,  for  it  was  not  until  several  years  later  that  the  wagon 
roads  were  constructed,  which,  in  their  turn,  connected  the  valley  with  the  outer  world. 
The  principal  highways,  or,  rather,  trails,  leading  from  Jacksonville  were  the  road  over 
the  Siskiyous  and  the  road  northward  to  the  Umpqua,  via  the  Canyon.  A  year  or  two 
later,  the  Crescent  City  road  was  projected  and  laid  out,  whereby  that  port  became  a 
successful  rival  of  Scottsburg — in  earlier  years  a  place  of  much  real  and  enormous  spec- 
ulative importance.  Its  fortunes  began  to  sink  by  the  year  1853,  and  within  a  few 
years  it  had  ceased  to  be  an  important  factor  in  the  commerce  of  the  Rogue  river  valley. 
Crescent  City,  on  the  contrary,  grew  and  flourished  at  the  expense  of  its  northern 
rival,  and  shortly  absorbed  the  trade  which  formerly  centered  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Umpqua.  In  1851,  the  general  government,  through  the  military  officers  on  the 
Pacific  coast,  resolved  upon  a  road  for  military  purposes  from  Scottsburg  to  Camp 
Stewart,  on   Bear  creek,  and  in   October,  1851,  Major  Alvord  completed  a  survey  of 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  3:39 

that  portion  of  the  road  lying  south  of  Myrtle  ereek,  in  Douglas  county,  choosing 
the  Canyon  route  in  2)reference  to  several  others  lying  to  the  eastward.  The  road,  for 
the  greater  part  of  its  course,  coincided  with  the  old  "Oregon  trail."  Congress  appro- 
priated money  for  its  construction,  amounting  in  the  aggregate  to  $120,000,  and  this 
money,  or  rather  a  portion  of  it,  was  exi)ended  under  the  direction  of  Colonel  Hooker, 
afterwards  called  "Fighting  Joe." 

In  the  spring  of  1852,  several  settlers  began  to  experiment  on  the  productive 
(pialities  of  their  lands,  j^utting  in  whatever  crops  their  very  limited  resources  would 
iidmit.  The  grain  and  vegetables  used  for  seed  were  brought  from  the  Willamette 
valley  and  planted  in  soil  whose  capabilities  were  in  no  degree  understood.  The  result 
of  the  first  season's  work  was  discouraging,  indeed,  to  the  new-comers,  for  the  unusual 
drought  of  that  year  prevented  the  plants  from  coming  to  maturity.  Some  of  the  set- 
tlers planted  several  acres  of  potatoes,  with  the  expectation  of  realizing  well  upon 
them,  but  scarcely  sufficient  tubers  were  procured  from  their  fields  to  keep  their  fami- 
lies from  starving.  Breadstuffs  rose  to  an  enormous  value;  late  in  the  year,  flour  attain- 
ing a  maximum  price  of  a  dollar  and  a  quarter  per  pound.  In  the  previous  autumn  it 
had  ranged  from  twenty  to  thirty  cents,  with  other  articles  in  proportion.  A  great 
many  land  claims  were  taken  up  in  the  year  1852,  and  nearly  all  the  bottom  lands  of 
Bear  creek  valley  were  claimed,  mostly  by  i)eople  from  the  Willamette.  If  there  is 
any  distinction  to  be  made  in  the  origin  of  the  mining  and  farming  population,  it  lies 
in  the  fact  that  the  farmers  were  mostly  Oregonians,  while  the  greater  part  of  the  miners 
were  from  the  California  placers.  But  many  embraced  both  occupations,  pursuing  the 
one  when  the  weather  served  for  mining,  and  returning  to  their  donation  claims  when 
water  gave  out.  For,  as  yet,  only  the  shallowest  placers  were  worked,  and  very  little 
skill  was  necessary  in  order  to  successfully  extract  the  gold,  nor  was  much  apparatus 
required.  Thus  a  large  number  of  settler  had  gathered  and  found  occupation  in  the 
vicinity  of  Bear  creek  and  its  tributaries,  the  enterprising  pioneer  farmer  had  entered 
upon  his  pursuits,  the  mines  were  in  an  extremely  productive  condition,  though,  as  yet, 
only  the  simplest  and  most  laborious  processes  were  in  use,  and  the  new  town  of  Jack- 
sonville was  gaining  rapidly  and  proving  its  advantageous  location  for  trade  and  activ- 
ity. The  most  valuable  sites  for  farms  were  occupied  that  year  by  individuals,  many 
of  whom  still  live  to  reap  the  result  of  their  timely  and  sensible  action.  Thus,  within 
the  space  of  one  year,  this  rich  and  fertile  country  had  become  populated  and  advanced 
far  u})on  the  highway  of  rapid  and  thorough  development.  Even  at  that  early  day 
her  resources  bad  become  recognized;  her  mines  of  gold  were  being  prospected  and 
woiked  as  rapidly  as  the  nature  of  things  would  admit;  her  forests  of  fir  and  pine  were 
being  drawn  upon  for  lumber  to  serve  the  multifarious  uses  of  the  farmer,  the  miner 
and  the  inhabitant  of  towns.  Precise  accoujits  of  the  immigration  of  1852  are  not 
at  hand,  but  the  reader  will  remember  that  it  was  in  this  year  that  the  tide  of  lumian- 
ity,  previously  setting  for  the  Willamette  valley  and  the  mines  of  California,  was,  in 
some  measure,  diverted  to  the  Rogue  river  valley,  whereby  many  settlers  were  added 
to  those  who  came  from  other  portions  of  the  Pacific  slope.  In  this  connection,  the 
reader  will  also  recall  the  Tule  lake  massacre  by  Modocs  and  the  subsequent  exploits  of 
Wright  and  Ross  and  their  brave  followers,  as  described  in  previous  pages  of  this  book. 
In  the  following  vear,  I5'.t  waoons  came  to  Rogue  river  valley,  ria  the  southern  route. 


3W  •  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

from  the  east,  accompanied  by  400  men,  120  women  and  170  children.  These  pioneers 
brought  2600  cattle,  1300  sheep,  140  loose  horses  and  forty  mules,  with  agricultural 
and  household  implements  suited  for  use  in  the  new  country,  where  they  set  about 
making  their  homes. 


CHAPTER    ALL 


GENERAL     PROGRESSION. 


Organization  of  the  County-  Precincts-  Interruptions  of  Growth  -Mills-The  Wheat  Crop  -Jackson  the  Leading- 
County — Division  of  the  County — Present  Boundaries— Mineral  Resources  Vast  but  Unexplored. 

The  county  of  Jackson  was  organized  by  an  act  of  the  legislature  passed  January 
12,  1852,  creating  and  defining  the  limits  of  the  county.  Its  boundaries  are  as  follows: 
Beginning  at  the  southwest  corner  of  Umpqua  county;  thence  east  to  the  northwest 
corner  of  Douglas  county;  thence  southerly  along  the  western  boundary  line  of  Douglas 
to  the  southwest  corner  of  that  county;  thence  east  along  the  southerly  boundary  of 
Douglas  to  the  southeast  corner  thereof;  thence  northeast  to  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  Rogue  river  valley;  thence  south  to  the  boundary  of  California  and  Oregon;  thence 
west  to  the  Pacific  coast;  thence  north  to  the  point  of  beginning.  Thus  the  county 
originally  embraced  a  very  extensive  area,  from  which,  in  subsequent  years,  the  counties 
of  Josephine,  Curry  and  Coos  have  been  carved,  while  still  a  good-sized  principality 
remains  under  the  original  name.  Previous  to  the  formation  of  the  county,  the  whole 
region  south  of  the  Willamette  had  been  nominally  attached  to  one  or  the  other  of  the 
northern  counties,  the  legislature  by  enactment  dated  December  28,  1847,  giving  the 
name  of  Linn  county  to  "all  of  Oregon  south  of  Marion  county  and  east  of  Benton." 

Jackson  county's  public  affairs  were  first  managed  by  a  board  of  appointed  offi- 
cers, of  whom  James  Cluggage,  N.  C.  Dean  and  Abel  George  wf~;re  county  commis- 
sioners; Dr.  G.  E.  Alexander,  clerk;  E.  H.  Blanchard,  elisor,  (o  serve  until  the  election 
of  a  sheriff;  Thomas  McF.  Patton,  prosecuting  attorney;  and  Richard  Dugan, 
treasurer.  These  officers  dated  the  beginning  of  their  official  life  in  the  spring  of 
1853,  the  first  meeting  of  the  board  of  commissioners  taking  place  March  seventh  of 
that  year.  One  of  the  first  acts  of  the  board  was  the  establishment  of  precincts. 
These  were  at  Emery  &  Company's  sawmill,  Ashland;  at  the  house  of  William  Law- 
less, at  the  Dardanelles;  at  Benjamin  Halstead's  house,  in  Perkinsville  (Perkins' 
ferry);  at  Harkness  &  Twogodd's  house,  on  Grave  creek;  at  Hardy  Eliff's  house,  on 
Cow  creek;  at  Dr.  Edward  Shell's,  on  Aj^plegate  creek;  at  Miller  &  Company's  house, 
on  Canyon  creek  (Illinois  river) ;  at  J.  C.  Anderson  &  Company's  place,  on  Althouse 
creek;  at  the  Robinson  House,  in  Jacksonville;  and  at  Gamble  ct  Tichenor's,  in  Port 


>■«'  , 

"-y 

s-      if 

*r* 

-'S- 

* 

^fe-- 

«r^." 

'  -'-r,, 

.^^  ', 

■*♦». 

,  •>- 

,  rei<;  M%^^  M- •^i.^^Pf%x^^  "^ 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  ui 

Orford.  Each  of  tlieje  precincts  was  empowered  to  elect  one  constable  and  one  jnstico 
oftlie  peace,  excepting  Jacksonville  and  Althouse,  which  were  entitled  to  two  of"  each. 
It  was  while  the  pioneer  miners  and  farmers  were  thus  industriously  engaged  in 
laying  broad  and  deep  the  foundations  of  a  permanent  civilization  that  hostilities  with 
the  Indians  again  began.  In  August,  1853,  a  number  of  residents  of  Bear  creek 
valley  fell  victims  to  savage  ferocity  and  vindictiveness.  Instantly  the  flames  of  war 
broke  forth.  Companies  of  volunteer  soldiery,  armed  with  rifles,  shot-guns,  revolvers, 
or  whatever  weapon  at  command,  were^  organized,  and  arrangements  were  made  for 
vigorously  prosecuting  hostilities  against  the  natives,  and  avenging  the  blood  already 
spilt.  Within  five  days  a  force  of  men  were  in  the  field  sufficient  to  check  the  enemy 
and  protect  the  helpless  from  the  incursions  of  the  cruel  marauders.  The  details  of 
the  series  of  encounters  known  as  the  war  of  1853,  have  elsewhere  been  fully  treated, 
and  so  will  be  merely  referred  to  upon  occasion.  Mining  operations  ancl  general 
improvements  Avere  almost  entirely  brought  to  a  standstill  during  these  difficulties,  but 
revived  immediately  upon  the  conclusion  of  peace,  and  Cjuickly  assumed  a  more  perma- 
nent character  than  at  any  previous  time.  At  that  epoch  a  very  large  proportion  of 
the  newly  arrived  immigrants  were  farmers  by  occupation  and  choice,  and  were  of  a 
class  peculiarly  adapted  to  satisfy  the  needs  of  a  country  like  this,  being  young,  vigor- 
ous and  inured  to  hardship  and  and  active  labor.  These  established  themselves  u|)on 
land  claims  on  Bear  creek  or  other  tributaries  of  Rogue  river,  affecting,  mostly,  the 
level  bottom  lands  as  more  productive  and  easily  cultivated  than  the  hill  lands. 

The  town  of  Jacksonville,  the  most  flourishing  locality  in  Oregon  and  a  most 
important  trade  center,  quickly  regained  the  commerce  which  had  been  hers  before  the 
war,  and  supplied  all  the  neighboring  camps  with  the  necessaries  of  life.  Pack-trains 
laden  with  the  articles  indispensable  to  miner  and  settler,  were  arriving  and  departing 
daily.  The  rich  resources  of  the  valley  lands  were  being  drawn  upon  to  furnish 
breadstuff's,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  products  of  the  Willamette  valley  ;  trains  of 
wagons  had  begun  to  traverse  the  new  routes,  and  w^ere  engaged  in  freighting  goods  ; 
and  everything  appeared  to  warrant  a  continuance  of  these  flush  times.  By  1854  two 
flouring  mills  uj^on  Bear  creek  were  built,  the  one  by  the  Thomas  Brothers,  the  other 
by  Hellman,  Emery  and  Morris,  of  Ashland.  The  former  was  the  Eagle  mills, 
now  owned  by  the  Farnham  heirs ;  the  other  the  Ashland  mills,  at  present  owned  and 
conducted  by  Jacob  Wagner.  Considerable  wheat  had  been  raised  in  1853 — au 
excei>tionally  favorable  season — and  iu  the  following  year  the  farmers  prepared  to 
enter  upon  its  culture  to  a  great  extent.  The  value  of  the  bottom  lands  for  tlie 
crop  had  now  become  known,  and  its  extreme  profitableness  was  recognized.  Wheat 
raising  then  became  and  has  ever  since  maintained  its  standing  as  the  ])rincipal  farm 
crop,  exceeding  any  other,  and  even  all  others  combined,  in  extent.  The  conditions 
surrounding  the  agriculture  of  this  region  have  always  been  [icculiar.  .V  first-rate 
home  market  has  always  existed,  nearly  sufficient  at  all  times  to  t-onsunu'  tiie  most 
plentiful  crops,  and  this  has  been  a  cash  market  also,  wherein  money  could  be  imme- 
diately realized  by  the  producer  of  grain,  vegetables  and  meats.  The  very  large  con- 
sumption of  flour,  the  miner's  chief  article  of  subsistence,  created  the  demand  for 
wheat  in  preference  to  other  food  products,  and  the  continuance  of  that  demand  main- 
tained the  conditions  which  surrounded   agriculture  at  the  beginning.      Without  com- 


342  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

petition  from  abroad,  and  with  almost  positive  certainty  of  at  least  a  tolerable  crop, 
the  industrious  and  provident  farmers  became,  in  the  course  of  time,  the  most  pros- 
perous and  wealthy  of  their  class  on  the  Pacific  slope,  and  the  Rogue  river  valley, 
partaking  of  their  good  fortune,  advanced  with  rapid  strides  toward  prosperity  and 
plenty. 

The  new  facilities  for  making  flour  induced  many  more  to  enter  upon  wheat 
growing,  and  it  was  remarked  that  the  quantity  of  that  grain  in  the  Rogue  river 
valley  in  the  fall  of  1854  was  greater  in  proportion  to  the  population  than  elsewhere 
in  Oregon.  The  wheat  crop  of  1855  was  an  extremely  abundant  one,  the  general 
average  being  over  thirty  bushels  per  acre,  while  many  fields  produced  over  forty.  The 
two  mills  on  Bear  creek  being  incapable  of  turning  the  immense  crop  into  flour,  another 
and  much  larger  mill  was  erected  at  Phoenix,  by  S.  M.  Wait,  at  great  expense. 
Wheat  flour  of  an  excellent  quality  sold  as  low  as  four  cents  per  pound,  wholesale,  a 
trivial  price  in  comjjarison  with  its  cost  three  years  before.  Lumber,  also,  was  held  at 
moderate  figures,  being  produced  in  considerable  quantities  by  various  small  saw  mills. 
A.  V.  Gillette  had  erected  the  first  of  these  in  1852,  and  William  Hughes  in  the  fall 
of  the  following  year  put  up  a  small  water  power  mill  to  cut  lumber  for  Fort  Lane, 
then  in  process  of  erection.  Hughes  received  $125  per  thousand  feet  for  his  lumber. 
In  1854  Milton  Lindley  constructed  his  mill  near  Phoenix,  a  water  driven  concern. 

Jackson  county  in  the  fall  of  1855  had  attained  the  foremost  place  in  the  list  of 
Oregon's  counties,"  being  the  most  poj)ulous  and  wealthy  of  all.  At  no  time  in  its 
history  had  affairs  borne  a  more  encouraging  appearance,  aside  from  the  coming  Indian 
troubles,  or  had  brighter  or  more  cheering  anticipations  filled  the  minds  of  its  inhabi- 
tants. When  hostilities  finally  closed  in  the  spring  of  the  next  year,  affairs  revived 
from  the  stagnation  produced  by  the  appearance  of  war,  and  business  quickly  assumed 
more  than  its  usual  activity,  as  if  to  atone  for  the  season  of  enforced  idleness.  New 
firms  were  established  at  various  points,  especially  at  Jacksonville  ;  mechanics  were  in 
demand  at  high  wages  and  steady  employment ;  and  the  thousand  and  one  ways  in 
which  flush  times  manifest  their  existence,  became  visible.  The  gravel  mines  were 
now  being  worked  extensively  and  by  more  improved  means  than  during  the  earliest 
years.  The  sluice  was  in  use  wherever  a  sufficient  supply  of  water  could  be  procured, 
and  ground  sluicing  also  was  much  depended  on.  The  out-put  of  gold  had  reached 
its  maximum.  The  total  amount  could  not  have  been  less  than  three  millions  annually, 
if  we  count  the  whole  extent  of  the  present  Jackson  county  and  the  territory  to  the 
west,  wherein  were  included  the  very  important  mines  of  Sailor  Diggings,  Althouse, 
the  Ocean  Beach  diggings,  and  many  other  productive  sources.  Josej)hine  county 
was  set  off"  from  Jackson  by  act  of  the  legislature  dated  January  22,  1856,  since  which 
time  it  has  not  been  customary  to  include  her  yield  of  gold  with  that  of  the  present 
county.  This  loss  of  territory  restricted  Jackson  county's  boundaries  somewhat,  and 
subsequently  they  have  continued  thus  :  Commencing  at  the  northwest  corner  of 
township  33  south,  range  5  west,  the  line  follows  Cow  creek  eastward  to  the  divide 
between  Rogue  river  and  Elk  creek;  thence  northeast  to  the  source  of  Rogue  ri  ver ; 
thence  south  along  the  east  line  of  range  4  east,  to  the  California  line ;  thence  west  to 
the  intersection  of  the  west  line  of  range  4  west ,  thence  north  to  township  36  ;  thence 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  343 

west  to  the  southwest  corner  of  thfit  township;  tlience  nortli  aloiio  the  west  line  of 
range  5  to  the  place  of  beginning. 

In  the  earlier  years  of  the  gold  excitement,  and  before  the  county  began  to  be 
surveyed  by  land  surveyors,  the  southern  boundary  of  Oregon,  like  all  arbitrary 
divisions  of  the  surface  of  the  great  northwest,  was,  necessarily,  not  determined.  In 
the  year  1851  the  legislature  of  Oregon,  we  may  instance,  passed  an  act  appropriating 
funds  to  enable  the  surveyor-general  to  ascertain  "if  Shasta  Butte  City  [since  called 
Yreka]  were  in  Oregon  or  not."  Such  was  the  condition  of  ignorance  of  topography 
which  necessarily  pervaded  the  public  mind  at  the  time,  and  still,  but  to  a  lesser 
extent,  pervades  it.  If  the  country  was  almost  a  terra  incognita  at  the  time  as  regards 
its  topography,  still  more  so  was  it  true  of  the  geology  of  the  land.  And  most  unfor- 
tunately that  condition  of  geological  ignorance  remains  almost  unabated  to  the  present. 
It  would  be  easy  to  show  that  Southern  Oregon,  particularly  Jackson  county,  is  unex- 
celled in  its  boundless  resources  for  the  study  of  geology,  and  its  associated  branch 
paleontology,  but  no  one  has  appeared  as  yet  to  lead  the  way  to  even  the  most  meager 
application  of  them  to  the  natural  history  of  the  region.  It  is  probable,  however,  that 
in  the  near  future  we  may  look  for  such  a  thorough  examination  of  the  rock  forma- 
tions of  the  country  as  will  demonstrate  fully  its  unexampled  resources,  both  in  a 
scientific  and  utilitarian  point  of  view.  The  importance  of  a  geological  survey  wa.s 
early  recognized.  Some  naturalists,  employed  by  the  United  States  in  the  early 
"fifties"  made  a  sort  of  random  inspection  of  certain  districts  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and 
reported  large  discoveries  of  coal,  quartz  and  other  valuable  minerals,  whereby  the 
Oregon  legislature  was  induced  to  resolve,  on  January  20,  1855,  that  "  Wliereas,  a 
general  geological  reconnoissance  has  been  made  by  United  States  geologists  foi-  the 
territories  of  Oregon  and  Washington,  showing  the  existence  of  extensive  beds  of  coal, 
limestone  and  other  minerals;  Resolved,  that  our  delegate  in  congress  be  instructed  to 
procure  a  sufficient  appropriation  to  make  a  survey  in  detail  of  the  coal  fields  and  gold 
region  of  Oregon."  The  subject  proceeded  no  farther,  and  Oregon,  while  owing  noth- 
ing to  the  general  government  for  a  correct  knowledge  of  her  resources,  owes  as  little 
to  individual  skill  and  enterprise.  The  great  stores  of  useful  minerals  which  certainly 
exist  in  Southern  Oregon  are  sufiered  to  lie  dormant,  awaiting  the  touch  of  the  mighty 
magicians  of  the  future,  whose  knowledge,  skill  and  enterprise  shall  exceed  ours  as  we 
exceed  our  ignorant  ancestors. 


CHAPTER  XLII 


SOCIAL  AND  OTHER  TOPICS. 


Mining  Regions  Most  Fruitful  in  History— Effects  of  the  Decreased  Gold  Production— Educational— Agricultural 
Society— The  Telegraph— Chinese  in  the  Mines— Eraser  River— Other  Rushes— The  Ledford  Massacre- 
Romance  of  Indian  George  and  Mary. 

From  the  settlement  of  the  Indian  difficulties  until  the  present  time,  the  history 
of  Jackson  county  presents  the  diversified,  yet  unbroken,  record  of  a  mining  and 
agricultural  country,  and  neither  branch  has  been  subject  to  fluctuations  sufficiently 
noticeable  to  be  particularly  alluded  to.  The  stirring  scenes  of  earlier  years  have 
been  rightly  judged  to  contain  all  history  of  general  interest,  and  in  comparison 
with  the  events  of  1851-6,  the  remainder  of  the  chronicles  of  this  region  are  singu- 
larly bare  and  uninteresting.  The  sharpest  discernment  sees  little  in  the  later 
years  but  the  usual  happenings  of  a  settled  and  somewhat  progressive  community 
who  have  achieved  exemj)tion  from  savage  foes,  and  from  want  and  scarcity  of 
subsistence.  Political  wrangles,  sjioradic  mining  excitements  of  uncertain  origin, 
the  success  or  failure  of  crops,  the  details  of  an  occasional  homicide,  the  opening 
of  communication  with  this  or  that  sea-port,  and  matters  of  similar  tenure  had  taken 
the  place  of  the  exciting  episodes  attending  the  discovery  of  gold,  the  settlement  of  the 
country,  and  the  subjugation  of  the  savages.  Nevertheless,  the  country  was  actively 
progressing.  Matters  had  assumed  a  tamer  aspect,  as  was  to  be  expected,  but  this  por- 
tion of  Oregon  was  keeping  equal  pace  with  the  Pacific  coast  in  general,  and  in  all 
essentials  of  civilization  and  refinement  was  far  in  advance  of  the  remainder  of  Oregon. 
The  lack  of  outward  communication  was,  in  most  ways,  felt  as  an  evil;  yet,  it  would  be 
easy  to  point  out  wherein  it  was  a  real  good.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  earlier 
years,  when  a  large  yield  of  gold  created  an  ample  market  for  farm  products.  But,  in 
later  years,  the  number  of  miners  decreasing  and  that  of  farmers  increasing,  the  sup- 
ply increased  above  demand,  and,  for  the  first  time.  Rogue  river  valley  had  farm  pro- 
ducts for  export,  but  had  no  means  of  exporting  them,  excepting  the  comparatively 
small  quantities  demanded  by  the  neighboring  mining  camps  of  Southern  Oregon  and 
Northern  California,  and  the  grazers  of  the  Klamath  country.  Farming,  in  conse- 
quence, failed  to  keep  up  its  former  rate  of  growth,  but  can  hardly  be  said  to  have 
declined,  although  its  profits  most  certainly  did.  The  contracted  agricultural 
region  of  the  Eogue  river  country  continued  to  furnish  the  requisite  supply  of  edibles, 
the  imports  from  abroad  being  still  confined  to  such  articles  of  merchandise  as  are 
always  in  demand,  but  never  can  be  furnished  by  a  new  country.  Thus  it  continued  to 
be,  in  most  respects,  self-sustaining,  and  to  a  greater  degree  than  any  other  mining 
town  now  in  recollection.  In  subsequent  years,  as  wheat-growing  absorbed  less  and 
less  the  united  powers  of  the  farmers,  other  products  came  in  vogue,  most  of  them  being 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  345 

introduced  with  a  view  to  supplying  outside  demand.  Wool,  bacon  and  beef  lieeanie 
staples,  and  proved  the  adaptability  of  the  climate  and  soil  to  their  production.  Graz- 
ing became  more  and  more  important  as  a  pursuit,  and  capital  looked  more  and  more 
closely  for  opportunities  for  investment  in  flocks  and  herds.  The  grassy  plains  beyond 
the  Cascades  began  to  be  populated  with  domestic  animals,  and  a  profitable  and  import- 
ant industry  came  to  be  recognized. 

Social  advancement  kept  even  pace  with  material  progress.  Many  schools, 
churches  and  societies  date  their  foundation  from  the  active  years  succeeding  the  Indian 
wars.  The  tone  of  public  sentiment  in  Jackson  county,  if  we  may  judge  from  circum- 
stances, always  favored  the  education  of  youth,  and  the  excellent  effects  thus  far  pro- 
duced are  to  be  ascribed  to  the  intelligent  foresight  of  many  of  the  early  pioneers.  And 
under  a  better  school  system  than  the  execrable  and  slip-shod  one  in  vogue  in  Oregon, 
still  greater  results  might  easily  have  been  attained.  The  county  became  tolerably  well 
]irovided  with  common  schools,  while  an  institution  of  learning,  to  be  styled  the 
Western  University,  was  projected  by  enthusiastic  citizens  of  Jacksonville,  in  the  years 
just  preceding  the  rebellion.  This  concern,  advertised  for  a  while  in  the  Sentinel,  was 
to  be  a  full-fledged  college,  and  to  secure  its  existence  a  site  was  donated  it,  being  the 
property  known  as  Dr.  Overbeck's  grove.  But  the  projectors'  intentions  came  to 
naught,  and  Southern  Oregon  is  yet  without  a  university. 

In  1859  the  Sentinel  recommended  the  establishment  of  an  agricultural  society,  as 
a  measure  of  importance  to  the  farmers,  who  would  become  united  in  action  upon  mat- 
ters affecting  their  mutual  interests.  The  society  would  also  result  in  disseminating 
agricultural  information  and  so  be  of  further  use.  On  February  8,  1860,  the  first 
meeting  of  the  future  association  was  held,  John  E.  Ross  being  chairman,  and  organiza- 
tion was  effected.  The  work  of  the  society  has  been  of  use  to  the  country  at  large,  and 
its  annual  exhibitions  have  been  very  creditable.  It  is  recollected  that  at  the  first  of 
these,  held  where  the  court  house  stands  in  Jacksonville,  the  various  agricultural,  horti- 
cultural and  manufacturing  industries  of  Jackson  county  were  well  represented.  Speci- 
mens of  the  "Gloria  Mundi "  variety  of  apples,  the  first  raised  in  the  valley,  were  on 
exhibition,  grown  upon  the  Skinner  place  on  Bear  creek,  and  these  were  purchased  by 
Thomas  Chavner,  flushed  with  the  distinction  of  owning  in  the  treasures  of  Gold  Hill, 
at  the  rate  of  two  dollars  and  a  half  apiece.  No  doubt  they  were  worth  the  money  to 
the  fruit-hungry  pioneers. 

News  from  the  outside  world,  at  first  so  slow  to  penetrate  to  the  camps  of  Southern 
Oregon,  the  most  isolated  of  all  the  inhabited  part  of  the  coast,  coming  at  first  l)y  the 
chance  sources  of  occasional  travelers  and  packers,  afterwards  brought  by  mail  more  or 
less  regularly,  and  on  the  establishment  of  newspapers  collected  and  disseminated  with 
somewhat  of  care,  for  many  years  was  uncertain  and  precarious.  When  San  Francisco 
and  all  California  had  to  depend  on  the  monthly  steamers,  and,  later  on,  the  Pony 
express,  the  great  events  of  the  world's  happenings  could  only  reach  to  this  region  in  a 
most  fortuitous  and  often  roundabout  way.  But  with  the  construction  of  the  overland 
telegraph  the  improvement  was  felt  even  on  Rogue  river,  and  when  the  wires  reached 
Yreka  in  October,  1858,  we  find  the  Sentinel  congratulating  itself  that  it  was  within 

sixty-five  miles  of  a  telegraph    office  and    hoped  that   Jacksonville  would   s i  be 

included  in  the  electric  circuit.     Six  vears  later  tlie  wish  was  gnitincd  in  the  laiilding 


346  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

of  the  through  telegraph  line,  and  since  then  Jackson  county  has  felt  herself  as  more 
nearly  a  part  of  the  outside  world. 

If  it  be  j)ermissible  to  include  under  the  head  of  social  movements  anything  per- 
taining to  the  "  Mongolians,"  we  may  here  speak  of  the  Chinese  invasion  of  the  mines. 
These  jjeculiar  jDeople  came  early  to  Jackson  county  and  mostly  began  work  upon 
claims  jireviously  abandoned  by  whites — their  universal  custom — and  made  no  effort  to 
discover  new  claims,  being  far  from  proficient  as  prospectors.  Their  course  here  was 
exactly  the  same  as  in  the  better  known  mining  districts  of  California.  That  is  to  say ; 
they  minded  their  own  business  (an  amiable  and  valuable  trait,  for  which  the  Chinese 
are  to  be  commended  above  all  peoples) — worked  early  and  late — gathered  little  "stakes" 
by  the  slow  process  of  accretion  of  "  colors  " — made  no  rich  strikes ;  or  if  they  made 
any  they  never  mentioned  it — let  politics,  whisky,  fighting  and  all  other  Caucasian 
forms  of  iniquity  severely  alone — indulged  themselves  only  in  "tan"  and  other  inscrut- 
able Celestial  modes  of  abasement — in  a  word  lived  the  life  of  all  poverty-stricken 
Chinamen  far  from  home  and  friends.  As  in  California  they  came  at  first  silently, 
labored  quietly,  and  hardly  was  their  presence  known  until  the  stolid  yellow  face  of 
"  John "  peered  from  every  bank  and  every  worn-out  placer  from.  Jacksonville  to 
Althouse  and  from  the  South  Umpqua  to  Sailor  Diggings.  When  the  whites  awoke 
to  their  numbers,  many  of  them  had  accumulated  gold  and  departed  for  the  Flowery 
Kingdom,  but  their  places  were  filled  by  greater  numbers  as  thrifty,  careful  and  accu- 
mulating as  themselves.  The  Chinese  question  then,  as  now,  was  a  difficult  one  to 
deal  with.  AVhy  it  required  any  interference  at  all  is  not  clear;  but  possible  danger 
might  have  been  apprehended  from  a  class  of  beings  whose  habits,  manners,  traditions 
and  general  behavior  is  so  entirely  different  from  what  is  American  and  therefore 
proper.  Besides,  these  Chinese  were  digging  American  gold  and  taking  it  to  China, 
which  was  indistinctly  but  firmly  regarded  to  be  wrong.  These  people  could  not  be 
fouglit,  for  they  were  unarmed  and  interposed  no  resistance.  By  an  apparently  happy 
stroke  of  genius  the  California  policy  of  taxing  them  was  introduced  across  the  border 
and  a  tribute  of  two  dollars  per  month  was  levied  upon  all  Chinese  and  Kanakas,  under 
the  title  of  Foreign  Miners'  tax.  Store-keepers  of  those  nationalities  were  mulcted  in 
fifty  dollars  per  month.  This  act,  passed  in  January,  1859,  took  effect  at  a  time  when 
the  influx  of  heathen  was  greatest.  Its  effect  was  to  somewhat  diminish  their  apparent 
numbers,  but  the  wily  strangers  found  ample  means  to  evade  it,  and  in  respect  to  the 
Chinese,  have  ever  since  maintained  a  hold  upon  the  placers  and  in  some  instances 
have  ventured  upon  hydraulic  mining,  with  good  results. 

In  April,  1856,  occurred  the  Ledford  massacre,  the  last  of  the  tragedies  caused  by 
Indians.  It  occurred  at  Rancheria  Prairie,  at  the  head  of  Big  Butte  creek,  and  con- 
sisted in  the  murder  of  five  white  men  by  certain  Indians  of  the  Klamath  tribe,  who 
were  residing  at  that  place.  Eli  Ledford  and  J.  Brown,  of  Jacksonville,  and  S.  F. 
Conger,  W.  S.  Probst  and  James  Crow,  of  Butte  creek,  set  out  to  cross  the  Cascades 
eastward  to  the  Klamath  lake  country.  They  were  mounted  and  provided  with  arms, 
and  proceeded  up  Big  Butte  on  a  trail  that  had  not  been  traversed,  thus  far,  during  the 
season.  They  were  not  subsequently  seen  alive  by  any  white  men,  and  their  fate  was 
only  discovered  through  the  merest  chance.  It  appeared  that  on  the  fourth  of  JMay 
following,  Indian  Agent  Abbott,  with  a  small  party  set  out  from  Jacksonville  for  his 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  347 

station  among  the  Klamatlis,  and  followed  the  trail  of  the  other  party  up  to  a  point  in 
the  mountains  where  the  unmelted  snow  prevented  further  progress,  and  from  whence 
Ledford  and  his  party  had  turned  back.  Following  the  previous  party  to  the  Indian 
rancheria,  Abbott  found  it  deserted,  the  houses  burned,  and  indications  that  rendered 
it  probable  that  the  five  men  had  been  murdered.  Four  of  their  horses  were  found 
dead,  having  been  taken  to  a  thicket,  tied  to  a  tree,  and  then  shot.  Abbott  and  his 
men  returned  to  Jacksonville,  and  told  their  suspicions;  a  company  of  thirty  citizens, 
with  John  Hillman  and  H.  Klippel  as  leaders,  set  out  for  the  spot,  and  after  consider- 
able search  found  the  bodies  of  Ledford's  four  companions  buried,  their  throats  cut,  and 
•many  brutal  wounds  and  bruises  upon  them,  by  the  character  of  which  it  was  judged 
that  they  were  killed  as  they  slept.  Ledford's  body  was  afterwards  found  at  some 
distance  away.  The  murderers  were  sought  for  far  and  wide,  but  without  success.  It 
is  thought  that  they  went  into  hiding  in  the  prairies  above  Flounce  Kock,  until  the 
melting  of  the  snow  allowed  of  their  escape  to  their  own  country.  The  pursuit  had 
lasted  a  month,  when  the  searchers  disbanded  and  left  for  their  homes.  In  after  years 
suspicion  fastened  upon  several  prominent  Klamatlis,  among  them  a  war  chief, 
>Skookum  John,  who  was  killed  at  Fort  Klamath,  in  November,  1863,  by  Captain 
Kelly  and  Sergeant  Underwood,  while  trying  to  arrest  him.  Two  others,  who  were 
supposed  to  have  had  something  to  do  with  the  massacre,  met  with  violent  deaths,  and 
finally  the  last  of  the  suspected  braves  was  wiped  out  of  existence  at  Camp  Baker,  near 
Phoenix,  at  the  same  date  as  that  of  Chief  John's  death.  The  event  of  the  hanging  of 
this  Indian,  Tyee  George,  on  the  nineteenth  of  November,  1863,  is  well  remembered 
in  Jackson  county,  and  with  its  attendant  circumstances  has  there  become  one  of  the 
principal  romances  of  the  time.  Some  Klamatlis  sought  and  obtained  from  their 
agent,  Rogers,  nicknamed  "Sugar  Foot,"  permission  to  reside  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Cascades.  They  came  in  small  numbers,  their  chief  men  being  George  and  Jack,  and 
made  themselves  at  home,  roaming  at  wall  over  the  land  and  somewhat  disturbing  the 
settlers.  They  were  said  to  have  threatened  individuals'  lives,  shot  cattle,  thrown  down 
fences,  and  committed  divers  other  misdemeanors.  In  consequence  of  these  charges, 
George,  who  was  indiscreet  enough  to  come  to  town,  was  arrested  in  Jacksonville,  and 
immediately  delivered  over  to  Charles  Drew,  commanding  the  volunteers  at  Camp 
Jjaker.  Here  his  doom  was  speedily  met:  for  by  an  unexampled  stretch  of  arbitrary 
authority,  the  man  in  command  ordered  the  Indian's  execution  at  once,  and  he  was 
hanged  in  the  presence  of  the  soldiery,  without  the  least  delay.  Jack  escaped  death, 
and  with  the  most  of  his  people  hastened  to  safer  fields,  leaving  George's  mother,  Old 
Mary,  to  enact  her  part  in  this  little  but  sorrowful  drama,  by  burying  her  son  where 
he  now  lies,  by  the  side  of  her  own  humble  ivirlc-i-up,  and  kindling  upon  his  grave 
the  sacred  fire  that  in  the  beautiful  Indian  superstition  is  supposed  to  guide  the 
wandering  soul  to  the  islands  of  the  blessed.  Poor  old  Mary  is  still  known  in  Jack- 
sonville where  her  woes  and  maternal  devotion  have  raised  up  sympathizing  friends; 
and  poetry  has  lent  its  aid  to  make  meuKn-able  an  e[)isode  resembling  that  of  Ili/.pah 
and  her  sons,  described  in  the  scriptures. 


CHAPTER     XLII. 


OTHER    TOPICS    OF     INTEREST. 


Military   Organizations   in  Jackson   County— The   Baker   Guards— The   Jackson    Rangers— Expedition   of   Cap- 
tain Applegate— The   Modoc  War— Statistics  of  Population  and   Production— The   Pioneer  Society. 

During  the  war  of  the  rebellion  the  people  of  Jackson  county  entered  into  the 
spirit  of  the  occasion  witli  characteristic  energy  and  activity.  Though  far  removed 
from  the  seat  of  war  it  aroused  the  feelings  of  every  one  to  the  greatest  intensity.  The 
union  party  testified  their  political  views  by  donating  liberally  to  the  sanitary  commis- 
sion, and,  in  individual  cases,  by  enlisting  in  the  volunteer  service.  The  general  gov- 
ernment made  arrangements  for  the  formation  of  several  regiments  of  troops  to  garrison 
the  various  military  posts  in  this  state  and  to  repress  Indian  forays.  The  privates 
received  thirteen  dollars  per  month  "  and  found,"  and  in  case  that  they  provided  their 
own  horses  and  equipments  (they  were  cavalry),  they  got  twelve  dollars  per  month  in 
addition,  besides  a  bounty  of  $100.  Southern  Oregon's  quota  amounted  to  four  com- 
panies. R.  F.  Maury,  now  of  Bear  creek  valley,  was  invested  with  the  oiEce  of  lieu- 
tenant-colonel, and  proceeded  to  open  a  recruiting  station  at  Jacksonville,  in  the  fall 
of  1861.  The  first  company  raised  was  the  Baker  Guards,  named  in  honor  of  Senator 
Baker,  of  Oregon.  This  body  of  men  numbered  about  eighty,  and  were  stationed  at 
Camp  Baker,  near  Phoenix.     Their  muster-roll  follows  : 

Captain,  Thomas  S.  Harris ;  First  Lieutenant,  Jesse  Robinson  ;  Second  Lieu- 
tenant, J.  W.  Hopkins ;  Sergeants,  R.  J.  Moore,  William  Irving,  John  Hurley,  D.  H. 
Taylor,  James  C.  Mager,  Silas  Pepoon,  Jr.  ;  Corporals,  J.  J.  Elliott,  Robert  Irvin, 
Robert  Bruce,  Charles  Dufferd,  Frank  Wyman,  D.  T.  Cole.  T.  M.  M.  Wood,  Joseph 
Little ;  Buglers,  Warren  Vernoy,  Myron  H.  Field ;  Privates,  George  E.  Butler,  Wil- 
liam Bremer,  T.  J.  Bradford,  John  R.  Bond,  Riley  R.  Barnes,  C.  C.  Bailey,  James 
Cassida,  Reece  Clark,  S.  H.  Collins,  D.  B.  Collins,  Peter  McDonald,  C.  J.  Kenney, 
George  W.  Clapp,  W.  T.  Lever,  John  B.  Rains,  Elihu  Morgan,  Marion  Taylor,  C. 
Dirshee,  John  McLaughlin,  Jackson  Million,  John  E.  Hill,  Milton  Prickett,  Orson  P. 
Matthews,  Augustus  Laronburg,  James  A.  Reid,  Luke  Standley,  John  Robinson, 
William  A.  Tull,  J.  E.  Vail,  J.  W.  Kimball,  Simeon  Peabody,  Aden  C.  Spencer,  James 
Longmire,  G.  W.  Ashley,  Gaylord  Penny,  J.  Vanguilder,  J.  M.  Hoxie,  Warren 
Wood,  Daniel  McGee,  Joseph  B.  Pepoon,  J.  H.  Heitman,  Charles  Thompson,  Charles 
H.  Sumner,  Ferdinand  Wachter,  George  Gutting,  Samuel  Southerland,  Chauncey  P. 
Martin,  George  W.  Dalton,  J.  H.  Dalton,  O.  Dodge,  Antonio  Sandoval,  William  Mot- 
ley, Mahlon  R.  Gaskell,  Eli  T.  Boon,  William  A.  Jones,  J.  B.  Perow,  John  Xapper, 
John  L.  Sperry,  Daniel  Laughery,  James  Hickey,  John  Linnley,  William  R.  Weddle, 
R.  A.  Gray,  H.  L.  Fergusson,  J.  Hammill. 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  349 

The  above  were  mainlj-  residents  of  Jackson  county,  as  were  also  the  Jackson 
Eangers,  another  mounted  company  belonging  to  the  same  regiment.  The  Rano-ers 
were  commanded  by  Captain  Sewall  Truax,  but  their  muster-roll  not  being  preserved, 
it  is  impossible  to  present  a  list  of  the  members,  excepting  Stephen  Watson,  John 
Brown,  R.  H.  Casteel,  Joseph  Durpy,  William  Eand,  Charles  Truax,  E.  8.  Powers, 
N.  Fortney,  William  Pittinger,  Theodore  Roe,  George  P.  Ledford,  J.  B.  Robinson, 
Adrian  Nappy  and  Henry  INIyer,  all  of  whom  were  non-commissioned  officers.  The 
Rangers  did  service  on  the  upper  Columbia  and  Snake  rivers  until  their  discharoe. 

Lindsay  Applegate,  fearing  for  the  safety  of  the  immigrants  of  1851,  who  were 
en  route  across  the  plains,  set  himself  to  work  in  August  of  that  year,  and  organized  a 
company  of  forty-two  persons,  armed,  mounted  and  equipped,  and  set  out  with  them 
toward  the  eastward,  along  the  old  emigrant  trail,  and  did  good  service  in  protectiuo- 
the  new-comers  from  the  ferocity  of  the  Indians.  The  expedition  resembled  those  of 
the  early  years  of  1862-3-4,  led  by  Ross,  Miller  and  Walker  successively,  and  per- 
formed similar  duties,  penetrating  even  farther  to  the  eastward  than  had  those  adven- 
turous leaders.  The  Applegate  company  marched  400  miles  east  of  the  Cascades.  Its 
members  were  L.  Applegate,  John  Robinson,  Warren  Yernay,  William  Steward, 
Lewis  Hiatt,  F.  F.  Fulton,  J.  W.  Mills,  Thomas  Williams,  J.  C.  Raper,.  J.  J.  Carter' 
Charles  Sumner,  David  Laugherty,  J.  M.  Anderson,  G.  H.  Brown,  Peter  Smith,  Mike 
Murphy,  J.  P.  Woodson,  J.  H.  Blake,  W.  F.  Sanger,  J.  D.  Applegate,  X.  L.  Lee, 
G.  W.  Gaskill,  William  West,  Samuel  Richey,  W.  W.  Shedd,  Wallace  Baldwin,  w'. 

D.  Pittenger,  J.  L.  McCoy,  Giles  Wells,  Jr.,  AV.  P.  Harris,  John  L.  Sperry,  J.  P.' 
Chandler,  Joseph  Wells,  Daniel  Chapman,  C.  F.  Blake,  Robert  Tenbrook,  W.  H. 
Jacquett,  D.  F.  Cole,  A.  J.  Walls,  Isaac  McCay,  R.  Simpkins,  Ben  Johnson. 

In  the  Modoc  war  of  1872-3,  the  citizens  of  Jackson  county  took  a  verv  promi- 
nent part.  General  Ross  and  Captain  Kelley  led  a  company  of  volunteers  from  Jack- 
sonville, who  performed  bravely,  fighting  in  the  lava-beds  by  the  side  of  the  regulars 
against  Captain  Jack's  braves.  The  details  of  the  war  do  not  belong  in  a  history  of 
Jackson  county,  as  the  hostile  occurrences  took  place  without  its  bounds  ;  but  the  names 
of  the  Jackson  county  volunteers  who  served  during  the  war  are  appended.  Brigadier- 
General  Ross  was  in  chief  command,  with  a  staff  composed  of  Majors  Owen,  Bell  and 
Adair,  and  Captains  Neil  and  Foudray.  Captain  Kelley's  company  was  mustered  in 
on  December  2,  1872,  and  discharged  between  January  7  and  February  12,  of  the 
following  year.     The  muster-roll  is  as  follows  : 

Cajitaiu,  Harrison  R.  Kelley;  First  Lieutenant,  J.  W.  Berry;  Second  Lieutenant, 

E.  R.  Reames ;  Sergeants,  C.  D.  Wood,  J.  H.  Snyder,  J.  W.  Scrauton,  W.  H.  Roberts, 
Jasper  Schockley ;  Privates,  A.  M.  Ackers,  W.  H.  Ackers,  William  Adams,  A.  J. 
Adams,  W.  C.  Borden,  J.  Baker,  James  Butler,  J.  S.  Ball,  A.  B.  Cardwell,  Isaac  Cox, 
D.  E.  Crawley,  G.  H.  Crooks,  W.  D.  Childers,  Wesley  Cole,  James  Downey,  T.  J. 
Farris,  Thomas  Gaston,  John  Gaston,  F.  Grobe,  R.  Hinkle,  George  W.  Hanierick,  J, 
Heckethorn,  J.  T.  Hunt,  T.  J.  Howard,  J.  N.  Harper,  R.  Hagan,  J.  E.  Ish,  F.  W. 
Johnson,  Walter  Jones,  G.  W.Jones,  Isaac  Lewis,  J.  Lausignant,  Alfred  Law,  J.  Linn, 
James  Miller,  E.  A.  ]\Iiller,  Gustave  Marks,  M.  D.  Murphy,  Christopher  Mays,  Josejih 
McKee,  Simon  McKee,  J.  E.  Newcombe,  C.  Nanny,  A.  P.  Owen,  B.  F.  Oatman,  J.  R. 
Powell  L.  Robinson,  William  Rcxford.  O.   :\IcC.  Sclnvatka,   J.  W.  Sava-e.   Elijah 


350  SOUTHERN  OREGON 

Smith,  Thomas  Tucker,  Walter  M.  Ware,  A.  J.  Wright,  ^V^illiam  Williams,  Thomas 
Willis. 

We  find  as  we  proceed  with  the  history  of  Jackson  county  that  a  noticeable  change 
takes  place  in  the  character  of  our  narrative.  We  miss  the  stirring  tales,  the  warlike 
incidents  and  the  record  of  mining  discoveries  and  excitements.  Our  story  is  becoming 
common-place.  There  is  less  and  less  of  incident  to  narrate  as  we  approach  the  present 
times.  The  country  is  becoming  more  populous,  but  is  losing  its  character  of  stirring 
adventure.  The  shallower  mines  are  being  exhausted  and  abandoned ;  hydraulic 
apparatus  is  taking  the  place  of  hundreds  of  toilers  in  deeper  gravel  beds;  other  regions 
are  calling  away  the  more  active  part  of  the  mining  population ;  and  the  pursuit  of 
mining,  in  former  years  overshadowing  every  other,  sinks  to  a  secondary  position  ; 
while  agriculture,  at  first  carried  on  but  to  supply  the  miners  with  the  necessaries  of 
life,  becomes  paramount  and  is  destined  to  so  remain.  These  causes  worked  gradually; 
and  even  now  the  small  amount  of  mining  carried  on  has  retained  so  many  of  the  tra- 
ditions and  influences  which  formerly  clustered  about  it  that  it  is  spoken  of  with  more 
of  consideration  than  its  importance  deserves.  Formerly,  as  we  said,  there  were  three 
separate  and  distinct  sorts  of  subjects  which  gave  interest  to  the  history  of  this  valley — 
the  Indian  wars,  mining  and  agriculture.  Of  all  regions  the  history  of  agricultural 
countries  is  driest  in  detail,  while  no  population  furnishes  so  much  of  history  as  a  min- 
ing one.  Hence  in  the  transformation  of  Jackson  county  from  a  mining  locality  into 
a  region  of  farms  and  farmers  only,  we  feel  the  gradual  extinction  of  interest  in  our 
story.  Still,  however,  we  may  draw  a  valued  lesson  from  the  art  of  husbandry.  Agri- 
culture abounds  in  statistics ;  and  we  can  most  readily  set  forth  the  progress  and  stand- 
ing of  Jackson  county  by  a  reference  to  and  j^resentation  of  such  official  figures  and 
calculations  as  are  at  our  command. 

By  referring  to  the  assessor's  rolls  for  18(32,  we  find  the  assessed  value  of  taxable 
property  to  have  been  $1,517,988;  polls,  1,026;  the  production  of  wheat,  60,000 
bushels;  barley,  6,750,  and  oats,  55,000.  There  were  6,650  horned  cattle,  1,600  horses, 
1,328  sheep,  and  5,000  hogs.  In  1865,  we  find  these  figures  slightly  changed,  the 
number  of  polls  being  reduced  to  994.  The  poj^lation  was  then  2,995 ;  of  whom 
1,791  were,  males,  and  1,204  females.  The  valuation  of  real  and  personal  property  was 
given  as  |1, 305,583.  The  excess  of  males  over  females,  common  in  all  new  countries, 
was  being  gradually  eliminated,  and  the  two  sexes  were  being  equalized  in  point  of 
numbers.  This  process  went  on  coincident  with  the  growth  of  population,  and  while 
the  number  of  grown-up  men  is  no  larger  to-day  than  in  the  earlier  years,  that  of 
women  and  children  has  steadily  increased.  The  number  of  qualified  voters  has  for 
more  than  twenty -five  years  remained  at  about  1,000,  while  the  total  population  has 
trebled.  .  We  find  that  in  1881  the  polls  numbered  1,050;  the  gross  value  of  property 
was  12,461,362;  taxable  property,  $1,633,851.  There  were  229,678  acres  of  land  in 
private  ownership,  of  which  113,000  acres  were  improved.  The  cattle  numbered  9,036; 
the  sheep,  31,332;  hogs,  9,525;  horses  and  mules,  4,841.  The  roll  for  1882  shows  a 
total  valuation  of  $2,464,832  for  all  classes  of  property  in  the  county,  these  figures 
being  supposed  to  represent  only  one-half,  or,  at  most,  two  thirds,  of  the  real  value. 
This  sum  was  divided  as  follows:  Value  of  improved  lands,  $658,985;  unimproved 
lands,  $144,531;  town  lots,  $62,982;  improvements,  $264,500;  merchandise  and  imple- 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  351 

ments,  $396,435;  money,  notes  and  accounts,  |5i)4,277;  household  furniture,  etc., 
$68,735;  horses  and  mules,  1149,005;  cattle,  $72,335;  sheep,  $31,361;  swine,  $21,677. 
The  assessment  roll  for  1883  shows  the  following  facts  and  figures:  Acres  of  land, 
249,399;  value,  $1,117,102.  Average  value  of  improved  land,  $8.25  per  acre;  unim- 
proved, $1.50.  Value  of  town  lots,  $62,254;  improvements,  $270,644;  mer- 
chandise, implements,  etc.,  $384,098;  money,  notes,  accounts,  etc.,  $650,036; 
furniture,  jewelry,  etc.,  $73,818.  Number  of  horses  and  mules,  4,260,  valued  at 
$160,269;  cattle,  7,848,  valued  at  $122,295;  sheep,  31,501,  valued  at  $42,827;  swine, 
13,235,  valued  at  $33,027.  Gross  value  of  property,  $2,916,786,  indebtedness,  $683,- 
316,  exemptions,  $230,270.  Total  taxable  property,  $2,053,200.  Number  of  polls, 
1,025.  The  population  of  the  county,  given  by  the  census  of  1880  as  8,11(3,  has  prob- 
ably advanced  at  least  1,000  persons  above  that  estimate,  through  the  influence  of  the 
railroad. 

A  few  years  before  his  decease,  the  lamented  James  Sutton,  speaking  editorially  in 
his  paper,  the  Tiding^;,  gave  utterance  to  the  wish  that  the  fiist-disappearing  recollec- 
tions of  the  pioneers  of  Southern  Oregon  might  by  some  means  be  preserved  from 
oblivion,  and  so  serve  as  the  groundwork  of  a  future  history  of  the  country.  The 
subject  so  shaped  itself  in  his  mind  that  a  proposition  to  establish  a  society  of  pioneers 
grew  out  of  it ;  and  this  was  heartily  taken  up  by  the  older  settlers  of  the  country, 
especially  of  the  Rogue  river  valley,  and  the  Association  of  Southern  Oregon  Pioneers 
sprang  from  it.  This  society  has  existed  since  with  increasing  activity  and  interest. 
The  members  gather  annually  for  the  purpose  of  discussing  matters  connected  with  the 
early  history  of  their  section,  and  for  social  intercourse.  Speeches  are  made,  narra- 
tives are  told,  and  the  contingent  business  of  the  association  is  transacted.  A  very 
large  proportion  of  the  still  existing  pioneers  of  the  country  are  members,  and  these 
constitute  a  very  respectable,  intelligent  and  much  revered  class  of  men  and  women^ 
whose  experiences  in  settling  and  civilizing  this  region  have  been  most  extraordinary, 
and  far  beyond  the  comprehension  of  those  who  were  born  in  later  days  or  lived  sur- 
rounded by  less  critical  emergencies.  The  roll  of  membership  includes  the  following 
persons:  Haskel  Amy,  O.  C.  Applegate,  Eli  K.  Anderson,  Elizabeth  N.  Anderson, 
(lilbert  G.  Anderson,  E.  L.  Applegate,  Lindsay  Applegate,  L.  B.  Api)legate,  Albert 
Alford,  Catherine  K.  Alford,  A.  M.  Berry,  Peter  Britt,  Rufus  Ball,  C.  C.  Beekman, 
Rial  Benedict,  Mary  J.  Benedict  (died  1880),  William  Bybee,  Thomas  F.  Beall,  Robt- 
V.  Beall,  James  V.  Bunyard,  David  N.  Birdsey,  Kinder  Boaz,  H.  V.  Bachelder,  R.  F. 
Baldwin,  John  BeesoTi,  W.  H.  Brown,  Wallace  G.  Bishop,  Mary  Jane  Bishop,  J.  A. 
Cardwell,  Lewis  Calhoun,  Theodore  Cameron,  Mary  Ann  Chambers  (died  1882), 
William  L.  Colvig,  Helen  M.  Colvig,  William  M.  Colvig,  Henry  W.  Clayton,  N.  H. 
Clayton,  Thomas  Chavner,  Jerome  B.  Coats,  (died  1881),  John  Coleman,  Nicholas 
Cook,  Almira  A.  Cook,  M.  H.  Coleman,  J.  H.  Chitwood,  Robert  J.  Cameron,  ]Milo 
Caton,  R.  [A.  Cook,  George  W.  Cooksey,  Isaac  Constant,  Joseph  A.  Crane,  G.  B. 
Cadwell,  Lucius  Danforth,  David  Dunlap,  A.  Davison,  L.  J.  C.  Duncan,  E.  Dimick, 
B.  F.  Dowell,  Patrick  Dunn,  Silas  J.  Day,  Patrick  Donegan,  H.  S.  Emery,  E.  J.  Far- 
low,  James  J.  Fryer,  D.  F.  Fisher,  Asa  G.  Fordyce,  E.  D.  Foudray,  James  D.  Foun- 
tain, Zany  Ganung.  E.  E.  Gore,  W.  B.  Grubb,  Samuel  Grubb  (died  1883),  Samuel  B. 
Grubb   (died    1882),Jo]in   D.  Grubl),  Mary    E.  Grubb,   A.   V.  Gillette  (died    1884), 


352  SOrTHEEX  OREGON. 

Martha  L.  Gillette,  Louis  Girtmaii,  Charles  Griffith,  John  B.  Griffin,  Burrell  B. 
Griffin  (died  1881),  C.  C.  Goodwin,  U.  S.  Hayden  (died  1879),  Frederick  Heber, 
James  Hamlin,  William  Hoffman,  Elizabeth  Hill  (died  1880),  Jasper  Houck,  Addison 
Helms,  John  Holton,  J.  H.  Huifer,  David  L.  Hopkins,  Michael  Hanley,  S.  B.  Hull, 
Rowland  Hall,  Thomas  Hopwood,  Rial  Hinkle,  George  W.  Isaac,  Kaspar  Kubli, 
Charles  K.  Klum,  Henry  Klippel,  William  Kahler,  Georgiaua  A.  Kahler,  Silas  Kil- 
gore,  Edward  Kilgore,  W.  W.  Kentnor,  David  Linn,  Arthur  Laugell,  X.  Langell, 
Francis  Logg,  James  Leslie,  J.  X.  T.  Miller,  William  M.  Mathes,  James  McDonough, 
John  N.  McDonough,  Rebecca  McDonough,  Rachel  M.  Mench  (died  1880),  John  M. 
McCall,  Artenecia  Merriman,  B.  F.  Miller,  J.  W.  Manning,  George  W.  Mace,  W.  C. 
Myer,  B.  F.  Myer,  J.  P.  McDaniel,  Constantine  Magruder,  H.  H.  Magruder,  J.  B. 
Montgomery,  Bennett  Million,  Margaret  J.  Miller,  Isaac  Miller  (died  1878),  Eliza- 
beth Miller  (died  1878),  Granville  Naylor,  Claiborne  Neil,  Louisa  C.  Neil  (died 
1880),  Thomas  E.  Nichols,  John  O'Brien,  Joseph  P.  Parker  (died  1882),  William  H. 
Parker,  Payne  P.  Prim,  Samuel  Phillips,  W.  J.  Plymale,  David  Penegar,  Champion 
T.  Payne,  G.  F.  Pennebaker,  John  E.  Ross,  P.  J.  Ryan,  A.  G.  Rockfellow,  F.  B. 
Rogers,  James  H.  Russell,  Thomas  G.  Reames,  E.  R.  Reames,  J.  W.  Simijson,  Thomas 
Smith,  Yeit  Schutz,  Charles  W.  Savage,  Sylvester  Saltmarsh,  Joseph  B.  Saltmarsh,  H. 
Seybert,  Peter  Simpson,  Thomas  Snell,  James  M.  Sutton  (died  1879),  Joseph  A. 
Satterfield,  D.  Hobart  Taylor  (died  1882),  S.  C.  Taylor,  Levi  Tinkham  (died  1880), 
J.  C.  Tolman,  John  Toepper,  J.  B.  Thomas,  James  Thornton,  S.  R.  Taylor,  James  P. 
Tufts,  John  R.  Tice,  Samuel  D.  YanDyke  (died  1880),  John  B.  Wrisley,  John  Wat- 
son, Jacob  Wagner,  Alexander  J.  AVatts,  ]Mary  Ann  Walker,  John  P.  Walker, 
Thomas  Wright,  H.  L.  Webb,  A.  K.  Williams,  Miles  S.  Wakeman,  John  Wise, 
Enoch  Walker,  Henry  York. 


CHAPTER     XXXIX. 


THE    TOWN     OF     ASHLAND. 

Settlement  of  the  Place— Earliest  Arrivals — Building  up  the  Town— Flour  Mill— School— Manufactories— The 
Academy — Woolen  Mill  —  Churches  —  Masons  —  Odd  Fellows— Good  Templars— Library— Bank— Extent  of 
Business     Officers— Surroundings. 

The  town  of  Ashland  is  situated  at  the  base  of  the  Siskiyou  mountains,  in  the 
remotest  southeastern  corner  of  Rogue  river  valley,  at  an  eleA'ation  of  1,900  feet  above 
the  Pacific.  It  is  the  extreme  southern  town  of  Oregon,  being  only  twelve  miles  from 
the  California  line.  It  was  incorporated  October  13,  1874,  having  then  a  population 
of  300.  The  first  officers  were  Jacob  Wagner,  F.  W.  Ewing,  J.  R.  Tozer  and  H.  C. 
Hill,  trustees;  Charles  K.  Klum,  recorder;  W.  C.  Daly,  marshal;  and  J.  M.  McCall, 
treasurer.     The  history  of  the  place,  as  nearly  as  can  be  obtained,  is  as  follows :     On 

the  sixth  day  of  January,  1852,  R.  B.  Hargadine  and  Pease  settled  on  the  land 

recently  known  as  the  Applegate  farm,  but  now  occupied  by  the  railway  depot  build- 


__^     ffi-^sl** 


rr. 


WFMS 


Birds  Eye  View  of  Ashiii, 


,  Jackson  County,  Oregon. 


.JACKSON  COUNTY.  353 

ings  and  new  town   site  of  the  Oregon  and   California  Railroad  Coni[)any.     On  the 
eleventh   day  of  the  same  month  Eben   Emery,   J.  B.   Emery,  Dowd  Farley,  J.  A. 
Cardwell,  A.  D.  Hellman  and  A.  M.  Rogers  also  came  and  settled  near  by.     Improve- 
ments were  immediately  commenced,  and  the  first  house  built  was  the  dwelling  of 
Hargadine  and   Pease.     The  second  building  was  the  sawmill  built  by  Eben  Emery, 
J.  B.  Emery,  J.  A.  Cardwell  and  Dowd  Hurley.     It    was    commenced    in    February, 
18o2,  and  finished  June  sixteenth  of  that  year,  at  a  cost  of  .|S,000  in  money  and  labor, 
and   was  named  the   "Ashland  Sawmill,"  in  honor  of  Ashland,  Ohio,  Mr.  Hellman's 
former  home,  and  also  in  honor  of  the  home  of  Henry  Clay,  Ashland,  Kentucky,  the 
majority  of  the  company  being  whigs.     The  third  building  was  the  residence  of  A.  D. 
Hellman,  and  the  fourth  one  that  of  Eben   Emery.     In  the  year  1854  the  Ashland 
flouring   mills  were  built  by  A.  D.  Hellman,  Eben  Emery,  J.  B.  Emery  and  M.  B. 
Morris,  at  a  cost  of  $15,000,  and  were  dedicated  by  a  grand  ball  on  the  night  of 
August  twenty-fifth  of  that  year.     These  mills  became  the  nucleus  of  the  coming  city, 
which  was  now  laid  out,  with  the  mills  occupying  the  south  side  of  the  plaza,  around 
which   the  principal  business   part  of  the  town  is  now  built,  and  the  name  of  the 
sawmill  "Ashland"  was  transferred  to  the  town.     Simultaneously  with  the  mills  the 
first  blacksmith  shop  was  built  by  the  mill  company.     Quite  a  number  of  other  build- 
ings were  soon  erected,  to-wit:    a  hotel,  by  John  R.  Foster  ;  a  butcher  shop,  by  jNIarion 
Westfall ;  a  carpenter  and  cabinet  shop,  by  Buckingham  and  Williams;  a  wagon  sho^), 
by  Jolin  Sheldon  ;  and  a  store  by  R.  B.  Hargadine.     Ashland  school  district,  number 
five,  was  now  organized,  and  the  first  school  was  taught  near  the  present  residence  of 
Mrs.  Erb,  two  miles  east  of  Ashland,  by  the  Rev.  Myron  Stearns.     The  district  was 
then  divided  at  or  near  the  Sisson  place,  two  miles  east  of  Ashland,  the  town  retaining 
the  name  and  number  of  the  district.     The  first  school  of  the  town  proper  was  taught 
in  the  house  of  Eben  Emery,  in  the  years   1854-5,  by  Miss  Lizzie  Anderson,  now  the 
wife  of  General  McCall.     Nothing  more  of  special  interest  transpired  until  April  5, 
1858,  when  Dr.  Sisson  was  killed.     This  homicide  is  a  dark  page  in  the  history  of 
Ashland,  and  cast  a  shadow  over  the  community  that  was  not  easily  dispelled.    Deliber-. 
ation  and  coolness,  however,  in  the  planning  and  execution  of  the  deed,  were  the  only 
things  developed  by  the  investigation  of  the  case.     Many  theories  regarding  the  crime 
were  advanced,  but  the  murderer  was  never  apprehended,  nor  the  cause  of  the  assassin- 
nation   bi-ought  to  light.     The  hotel,  known  as  the  "Ashland  House,"  was  built  in  the 
year  1859,  by  Eben  Emery  (now  of  Eagle  Point),  at  a  cost  of  .f 3,000,  by  whom  it  was 
kept   for  ten  years,  when   it  was  sold  to  Jasper  Houck,  the  present  proprietor,  for 
|G,000.     The  first  public  schoolhouse  of  the  town  was  built  in  1860,  on  a  lot  donated 
by  R.  B.  Hargadine.     It  was  a  substantial  frame  building,  eighteen  by  twenty  feet,  on 
a  solid  foundation  of  cut  stone,  and  cost|GOO.     In  the  year  18G7  an  addition  of  nearly 
the  same  size  was  made  to  the  original   building.     In    1880  increased  school  room 
becoming  necessary,  a  commodious  two-story  house,  thirty-six  by  fifty  feet,  was  erected 
near  the  old  building  at  a  cost    of  l|2,000.     In   this  new  building  a  school   of  nine 
months  in  each  year  is  taught  by  the  best  instructors  the  country  affords,  from  whence 
250  scholars  in  its  several  departments   draw  that  inspiration  and  culture  that  is  to 
prepare  them  for  work  when  the  government  shall  be  upon  their  shoulders. 


354  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

The  next  enterprise  was  the  marble  saw-mill  and  shops  built  by  James  H.  Rus- 
sell, in  the  years  1865  and  1869,  for  the  purpose  of  utilizing  the  native  marbles  of  the 
country.  This  mill  turned  out  many  magnificent  slabs,  which  were  afterward  wrought 
into  monuments  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Russell.  The  sawing  department  was  destroyed  in 
the  fire  of  1879,  since  which  time,  Mr.  Russell,  wife  and  son  continue  the  manufacture 
of  monuments  from  American  and  Italian  marble.  To  Ashland  belongs  the  credit  of 
the  first  marble  works  in  Oregon,  south  of  Portland. 

The  planing  mills  and  cabinet  shops  of  L.  S.  P.  Marsh  &  Company  were  projected 
and  partly  built  by  H.  S.  Emery,  in  the  year  1868.  In  1874,  they  were  purchased  by 
Messrs.  Marsh  &  Valpey  for  $1,400.  Since  the  succession  of  these  gentlemen  to  the 
property  extensive  additions  have  been  made  to  the  buildings  and  machinery,  which 
are  now  valued  at  |8,000. 

The  Ashland  college  and  normal  school  was  inaugurated  in  1869,  at  a  quarterly 
conference  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  church  held  at  Ashland  in  June  of  that  year. 
Rev.  C.  Alderson,  president  of  the  meeting,  proposed  the  enterjjrise.  A  committee  to 
interview  the  people  and  solicit  funds  in  aid  of  the  project  was  a2:)pointed,  by  whom  a 
very  encouraging  report  was  made.  Plans  and  specifications  were  made  out  by  the 
Rev.  J.  W.  Kuykeudall,  and  a  contract  was  closed  with  Messrs.  Blake  &  Emery  for 
the  erection  of  the  building.  Before  its  completion,  however,  funds  failed  and  the 
enterprise  was  suspended.  In  1872,  Rev.  J.  H.  Skidmore,  at  the  solicitation  of  many 
friends,  and  the  surrender  to  him,  by  the  contributors  to  the  original  fund,  of  all  right, 
title  and  interest  in  the  concern,  completed  and  furnished  the  building,  and  commenced 
the  school  as  a  private  enterprise.  Under  his  management,  it  would  have  been  a  suc- 
cess, but  for  the  incubus  of  a  heavy  debt,  with  constantly  accruing  interest.  This  so 
embarrassed  him  that  he  was  finally  compelled  to  abandon  the  enterprise  and  turn  it 
over  to  his  creditors.  From  these  it  was  redeemed  in  1878  by  its  friends  and  jjlaced 
again  under  the  supervision  of  the  above  church,  as  a  college  and  normal  school.  Prof. 
L.  L.  Rogers,  A.  M.,  was  chosen  president,  and  the  school  again  started  under  the 
most  flattering  auspices  and  patronage.  Unforeseen  complications,  however,  arising,  it 
was  soon  in  the  dust  of  humility.  Patrons  forsook  it,  friends  became  disheartened,  and 
Mr.  Rogers  resigned  his  position.  Though  the  case  now  seemed  almost  hopeless,  the 
trustees  resolved  to  make  one  more  trial,  and  on  August  26,  1882,  the  present  incum- 
bent, Rev.  M.  G.  Royal,  A.  M.,was  appointed  to  the  management.  Since  his  installation 
the  course  of  the  school  has  been  onward  and  upward.  The  state  has  made  it  a  branch 
of  its  normal  school  system,  alienated  friends  are  i-eturning  to  it,  and  the  highest  hopes 
are  entertained  of  usefulness  for  the  institution. 

The  Ashland  Woolen  Mills  was  originally  established  by  a  joint-stock  company 
consisting  of  thirty  members,  with  J.  M.  McCall  as  the  leading  spirit.  It  was  inaugu- 
rated in  the  year  1867,  and  began  operations  in  1868,  under  the  name  and  style  of  the 
Rogue  River  Woolen  Manufacturing  Company,  with  J.  M.  McCall,  president ;  C.  K. 
Klum,  secretary;  and  John  Daley,  superintendent.  The  mill  was  completed  and 
equipped  with  one  set  of  cards,  one  spinning  jack,  four  looms,  and  the  necessary  oper- 
ating and  finishing  machinery,  at  a  cost  of  $32,000.  It  was  operated  three  years  by 
the  original  company,  without  profit  to  the  stock-holders,  when  it  was  sold  to  G.  N. 
Marshall  and  Charles  Goodchild.    During  the  second  year  of  this  administration  James 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  355 

Tlioi-nton  became  a  partner  in  the  business,  and  in  1878  he  bought  the  entire  stock  of 
the  concern.  In  the  same  year  "W.  H.  Atkinson,  Jacob  Wagner  and  E.  K.  Anderson 
became  partners  with  Mr.  Thornton,  when  the  name  of  the  concern  was  changed  to 
"  Asliland  Woolen  Manufacturing  Company."  In  1881,  Mr.  Wagner  retired,  and 
Capt.  J.  M.  McCall  again  became  interested  in  the  business.  Since  1878  machinery 
and  improvements  to  the  amount  of  $10,000,  have  been  added.  The  manufacturing 
machinery  now  consists  of  one  set  of  cards,  seven  bi'oad  looms,  two  spinning  jacks  of 
240  spindles  each,  two  full  sets  of  knitting  machinery  of  the  latest  and  most  approved 
styles,  with  every  other  needed  appliance.  The  present  capacity  of  the  mill  is  over 
10,000  pounds  of  wool  per  month.  It  is  operated  day  and  night,  the  year  round — 
Sundays  excepted — by  thirty  skilled  employes,  and  furnishes  employment  to  as  many 
other  persons  in  the  manufacture  of  under-wear,  finishing  of  hosiery  &c.  Shawls, 
blankets  and  hosiery  are  specialties  of  these  mills,  but  they  manufacture  all  the  ordinary 
woolen  products.  These  articles  find  a  ready  market,  with  such  increasing  demand  for 
them  as  to  warrant  increased  capacity  for  their  production,  which  is  already  in  con- 
templation by  the  proprietors.  The  mills  are  run  by  water  power  and  the  motive 
machinery  is  a  twenty-six-inch  turbine,  with  thirty-two  feet  pressure.  James  Thorn- 
ton is  general  superintendent,  W.  H.  Atkinson  business  manager,  and  J.  R.  Casey 
foreman.     A  lithographic  view  of  the  mill  adorns  the  pages  of  this  work. 

The  planing  mill  and  cabinet  shop  of  Daley  &  company  were  built  in  1878,  by 
the  present  proprietors,  at  a  cost  of  $3,000.  They  are  situated  at  the  junction  of 
Mechanic  and  Hellman  Streets.  The  power  used  is  the  water  of  Ashland  creek,  acting 
on  a  turbine  wheel.  They  have  a  wide  range  of  usefulness,  and  turn  out  annually  a 
large  amount  and  variety  of  carpentry  and  cabinet  work.  Proprietors,  W.  G.  Daley, 
J.  R.  Tozer  and  H.  S.  Emery. 

The  extensive  nursery  of  Orlando  Coolidge,  will  bear  special  mention.  It  was 
established  in  1868,  and  is  the  most  extensive  of  its  kind  in  Southern  Oregon.  It  con- 
tains almost  all  varieties  of  fruits,  nuts,  shrubs,  flowers  and  ornamental  trees  to  be  found 
on  the  coast.  Mr.  Coolidge's  fruits  and  Mrs.  Coolidge's  flowers  are  the  desire  and 
admiration  of  neighbors  and  strangers.  The  epicure  and  the  lover  of  the  beautiful  each 
find  food  for  a  highly  cultivated  taste  in  their  orchards  and  gardens. 

The  permanent  organization  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  church  in  Ashland  took 
place  in  July,  18(;)4,  by  Rev.  P.  M.  Starr,  P.  E.,  of  Jacksonville  circuit.  The  members 
were  David  P.  Walrad  and  wife,  A.  G.  Rockfellow  and  wife,  INIrs  Jacob  Wagner,  Mrs. 
Mary  Myer,  William  Jaquett  and  wife,  W.  C.  Myer  and  wife,  Heaton  Fox  and  wife,^ 
and  D.  P.  Brittain  and  wife.  The  organization  lias  been  maintained  and  meetings  of 
the  church  regularly  held  from  the  date  of  the  organization  to  the  present.  In  1875-6, 
the  present  church  building  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  |3,500.  The  dimensions  are 
thirty-six  by  fifty-six  feet.  The  membership  of  the  society  now  fifty,  and  of  the  Sab- 
bath school  sixty.  The  trustees  are  Amos  Willits,  C.  B.  Kingsbury,  D.  P.  Walrad, 
Jacob  Wagner,  W.  C.  Myer  and  A.  G.  Rockfellow.  The  various  pa.stors  of  the  M.  E. 
church  who  have  labored  in  Jackson  county  since  its  settlement  are  T.  F.  Royal, 
Stephen  Tavter,  Orlando  Raynour,  Archy  Taylor,  George  Greer,  G.  G.  Belknap, 
John  Flynn,  C.  C.  Stratton,  I.  D.  Driver,  J.  W.  Miller,  P.  M.  Starr,  C.  Alderson,  J. 
W.  Kuvkendall,  (;eorgo  Hughbanks.  (J.  W.  Roork,Noah  Starr,  W.  H.  Hurlburt,  John 


35(5  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

T.  Wolfe,  J.  H.  McCain,  W.  T.  Chapman,  L.  L.  Rogers,  Laclru  Royal,  B.  J.  Sharp,  J. 
H.  Skidmore  aud  D.  W.  Crowell. 

The  Baptists'  organization  in  Ashland  was  begun  in  February,  1877,  under  the 
name  of  the  First  Baptist  church.  The  persons  connected  with  it  at  its  inception  were 
Rev.  J.  F.  Bradford,  Rev.  A.  Brown,  Deacons  Horace  Root  and  C.  P.  Tallent,  Elder 
Horace  Ritter,  L.  W.  Robertson,  M.  Robertson,  M.  A.  Robertson,  S.  E.  Ritter,  Eliza- 
beth Hill  and  Caroline  Ritter.  The  first  meetings  were  held  at  the  school  house,  but 
the  Presbyterian  church  is  now  in  use  for  the  purpose.  The  pastor  is  Rev.  A.  M.  Rus- 
sell. This  church  belongs  to  the  organization  originally  known  as  the  Umpqua  Bap- 
tist Association,  which  dated  its  beginning  from  June,  1863;  but  at  a  later  date  that, 
association  was  dissolved,  and  another,  known  as  the  Rogue  River  Baptist  Association 
was  formed,  including  seven  churches,  three  in  Josephine  and  four  in  Jackson.  This 
body  meets  annually  with  some  one  of  the  churches  composing  it,  and  administers  upon" 
its  community  affairs. 

The  First  Presbyterian  church  of  Ashland  was  organized  on  the  twenty-eighth  of 
August,  1875,  by  Rev.  Thomas  Frazer,  missionary  agent  of  the  synod  of  the  Pacific.  The 
original  members  were  Mrs.  M.  A.  Gillette,  E.  Giddings,  M.  Jacobs,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  AV. 
Kentnor,  Mrs.  Woodson,  U.  Ewing,  J.  Buick,  A.  H.  Russell,  M.  M.  Dunn,  B.  Taylor, 
Mr.  aud  Mrs.  C.  Neil,  Mrs.  Wells,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Samuel  Grubb,  and  Miss  Sarah 
Grubb.  In  1878,  the  society  was  incorporated.  The  first  board  of  officers  were:  G. 
H.  Marshall,  chairman;  W.  H.  Atkinson,  clerk  and  treasurer;  and  Samuel  Grubb, 
J.  P.  Walker,  and  W.  W.  Kentnor,  trustees.  The  old  district  school  house  served  as 
a  place  of  meeting,  originally,  but  a  church  was  erected  in  block  number  five,  in  the 
year  1878,  costing  $3,200,  which  is  now  occupied  by  the  society.  The  present  member- 
ship is  about  thirty. 

Ashland  possesses  several  secular  societies,  the  Masons,  Odd  Fellows,  Order  of 
the  Eastern  Star  and  Good  Templars  being  the  principal.  Ashland  Lodge,  number 
45,  Independent  Order  of  Odd  Fellows,  was  organized  July  23,  1873,  with  D.  S.  K. 
Buick,  Morris  Baum,  William  Taylor,  Jacob  Slagle,  J.  W.  Cunningham  and  W.  W. 
Kentnor,  as  charter  members.  The  records  having  been  burned,  it  is  impossible  to 
give  any  portionof  the  lodge's  history.  A  fine  building — Odd  Fellows'  Hall — has  been 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  $6,000,  and  this,  with  their  paraphernalia,  constitutes  the 
lodge's  property.  The  present  officers  are:  X.  G.,  W.  W.  Kentnor;  V.  G.,  W.  C- 
Daley;  recording  secretary,  H.  C.  Myer;  P.  S.,  F.  M.  Drake;  treasurer,  H.  Inlow; 
warden,  W.  Baldwin;  conductor,  T.  D.  Fountain;  I.  G.,  L.  A.  Xeil;  L.  S.  K  G.,  J. 
W.  Burris;  R.  S.  V.  G.,  J.  B.  Russell;  L.  S.  V.  G.,  J.  P.  Woodson;  R.  S.  S.,  G.  F. 
Pennebaker. 

Ashland  Lodge,  number  23,  A.  F.  &  A.  Masons,  was  organized  in  June  1875, 
by  the  Grand  Lodge  of  A.  F.  &  A.  M.,  of  Oregon.  Charter  members — W.  H.  Atkin- 
son, J.  R.  N.  Bell,  N.  Conkling,  P.  Dunn,  J.  S.  Ewbanks,  H.  C.  Hill,  A.  S.  Jacobs, 
C.  S.  Sergent,  J.  H.  Skidmore,  J.  C.  Tolman,  Jacob  Wagner,  Justus  Wells  and  Free- 
man Yandell.  First  Officers— H.  C.  Hill,  W.  M.;  J.  R.  N.  Bell,  S.  W.;  P.  Dunn,  J. 
W. ;  Jacob  Wagner,  treasurer,  and  W.  H.  Atkinson,  secretary.  Present  officers — ^y. 
H.  Atkinson,  W.  M. ;  L.  F.  Willitts,  S.  W.;  M.  L.  McCall,'  J.  W. ;  J.  M.  McCall, 
treasurer ;  H.  T.  Chitwood,  secretary ;  H.  Fox,  tyler.     The    present  membership   is 


'%^ 


'"^H^ 

# 


# 


^2/>nzej 


n-a^TL^ 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  357 

about  fifty.  The  society  possesses  the  well-known  ^Masonic  Hall  in  Ashland,  built  in 
1870,  costing  17,(300,  to  take  the  place  of  their  former  hall,  destroyed  by  fire  during 
the  same  year. 

Ashland  Lodge,  No.  453,  Independent  Order  of  ( Jood  Templars,  was  [organized 
November  9,  1883,  by  Deputy  G.  W.  C.  T.  William  Harris.  The  charter" members 
numbered  one  hundred  and  forty-three.  Officers — AV.  H.  Leeds,  W.  C.  T. ;  Mrs.  R. 
Alford,  W.  Y.  T.;  H.  C.  Myer,"  P.  W.  C.  T.  ;  W.  A.  Wilshire,  secretary;  Frank 
Howell,  chaplain;  Miss  Delia  Pennebaker,  W.  M. ;  C.  C.  Walker,  dejjuty  marshal ; 
Fred  Wagner,  F.  S.;  Miss  Hattie  Thornton,  W.  T. ;  Ida  Beach,  I.  G.;  J.  D.  Fountain, 
sentinel.  Place  of  meeting.  Odd  Fellows'  Hall ;  property,  necessary  regalia  and 
furniture. 

Alpha  Chapter,  (_)rder  of  Eastern  Star,  was  founded  March  13, 1880,  by  authority 
of  the  grand  chapter  of  the  United  States,  and  was  the  earliest  established  in  Oregon. 
The  present  membership  is  seventy;  the  place  of  meeting.  Masonic  Hall. 

The  Ancient  Order  of  United  Workmen  have  organized  a  branch  known  as 
Ashland  Lodge  No.  66,  of  whom  W.  J.  Plymale  is  D.  G.  M.  W.,  the  list  of  charter 
members  including  some  of  the  best  citizens  of  the  place,  Messrs.  Leeds,  Miller,  Atkin- 
son, McKee,  Willit,  Burriss,  Brown,  Wilshire,  Butler,  Andrews,  Patterson,  Reeser, 
Tucker,  Bi.sh,  Morris,  Hill,  Billings,  Alnutt,  Lamb,  Martin  and  others  belonging  at 
various  times,  and  assisting  to  maintain  a  society  which  derives  its  principal  wealth 
from  its  reputation. 

Probably  no  town  in  Oregon  has  evinced  such  refined  and  elevated  public  senti- 
ment as  Ashland.  In  the  matter  of  temperance  the  population  were  once  a  unit  in 
favor  of  prohibition  of  intoxicating  fluids,  and  only  of  late  have  been  compelled  to 
tolerate  the  existence  of  saloons.  The  extraordinary  number  of  members  of  the  Good 
Templar  union  will  testify  to  the  prevailing  feeling.  In  matters  of  education  their 
sentiment  has  been  equally  commendable.  Besides  the  common  school  and  academy 
there  was  a  public  library,  organized  in  December,  1871),  under  the  name  of  the 
Ashland  library  and  reading-room  association,  whereof  J.  M.  jMcCall,  M.  Baum,  W* 
H.  Atkinson,  W.  A.  Wilshire,  James  Thornton,  H.  C.  Plill,  J.  P.  Walker,  H.  T. 
Chitwood,  W.  H.  Leeds,  W.  Nichols  and  others  were  members.  They  existed  about 
two  years,  when  the  books  and  other  property  were  transferred  to  the  Masonic  society 
for  their  use  and  benefit,  and  are  now  controlled  by  a  committee  from  that  body. 
There  are  about  20O  volumes  in  the  library,  besides  files  of  the  more  im])ortant  literary 
j3ublications  of  this  country. 

The  Ashland  bank  was  incorporated  February  i>,  1884,  with  a  c-aiiital  stock  of 
$50,000,  divided  into  500  shares  of  $100  each.  The  incori)orators  wei'e  J.  M.  .McCall, 
W.  H.  Atkinson  and  H.  B.  Carter. 

The  business  of  Ashland,  always  considerable,  has  increased  largely  of  late,  and 
the  place  wears  a  characteristic  air  of  commercial  enterprise  and  activity.  There  are 
four  stores  of  general  merchandise,  two  groceries,  two  hardware  stores, two  drugstores, 
one  factory,  one  furniture  store,  three  of  millinery,  two  jewelry,  one  confectionery, 
and  one  dealer  in  second-hantl  articles.  Total,  nineteen  business  houses.  Then  there 
are  the  woolen  mills,  the  flour  mill,  the  planing  mills,  saw  mill,  two  cabinet  shops,  two 
carpenter  shops,  one  marble  works,  two  blacksmith  slioj)s,  three  shoe  shops,  one  wagon 


358  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

making  and  repair  shop,  gunsmith,  three  barber  shops,  two  watch  makers,  one  bakery, 
one  meat  market  and  two  j^aint  shops,  making  a  total  of  twenty-one  establishments  of 
the  industrial  order.  There  are  four  doctors,  two  dentists,  and  four  lawyers.  There  is 
the  common  school,  taught  by  four  teachers,  and  the  academy,  taught  by  five.  There 
are  four  real  estate  and  a  large  number  of  fire  and  life  insurance  agencies,  with  others 
doing  business  in  musical  instruments,  sewing  machines,  agricultural  implements, 
wagons,  etc.,  aggregating  thirty-eight.  There  is  a  newspaper  of  excellent  standing, 
the  Tidings,  published  weekly  by  W.  H.  Leeds,  editor  and  proprietor.  Four  hotels 
and  restaurants,  a  bank,  two  photographic  galleries,  two  notaries  public,  a  livery  stable, 
two  laundries,  a  shooting  gallery,  and  five  saloons,  make  up  the  remainder  of  the  active 
institutions  of  the  town.  The  population  of  the  town  was,  in  1854,  twenty-five ;  in 
1864,  fifty;  in  1874,300;  and  in  1884,  approximately,  1,000.  The  present  board  of 
trustees  consists  of  H.  C.  Hill,  chairman ;  M.  L.  McCall,  Jacob  Thompson,  James 
Thornton,  and  J.  W.  Burriss.  Eecorder,  A.  V.  Gillette  (deceased  February,  1884)  ; 
Marshal,  S.  D.  Taylor;  Treasurer,  C.  K.  Khun  ;  Street  Commissioner,  P.  Littleton  ; 
Postmaster,  A.  P.  Hammond.  The  aggregate  amount  of  capital  invested  in  the  several 
departments  of  trade,  with  the  value  of  necessary  real  estate,  aggregates  $332,600,  as 
ascertained  by  a  careful  canvass.  The  aggregate  of  sales  for  the  six  months  preceding 
February  12,  1883,  was  $134,714.  The  corresponding  aggregate  for  the  half  year 
ending  February  12,  1884,  was  $267,991  ;  showing  an  increase  of  almost  exactly  one 
hundred  per  cent. 

Ashland  has  been  visited  in  the  past  by  several  fires,  more  or  less  destructive, 
occurring  as  follows  :  In  1859,  the  post  office,  Kentnor's  wagon  shop,  Hellman's  cabi- 
net shop,  etc.,  were  burned — loss,  $3,000.  In  the  following  year  Foster's  hotel  was 
damaged  to  the  extent  of  $1,000.  In  1868,  Gillette's  cabinet  shop  and  the  post  office 
■were  destroyed — loss,  $2,000.  In  1879,  INIiller's  blacksmith  shop,  the  post  office,  and 
many  other  buildings  were  burned — loss,  $30,000.  In  1881  and  1883  two  small  fires 
occurred,  burning  two  blacksmith  shops — loss,  $4,000. 

Architecturally,  Ashland  is  one  of  the  finest  of  towns.  Its  situation  is  all  that 
could  be  desired  ;  its  buildings  are  really  creditable  ;  its  surroundings  are  beautiful ; 
and  its  social  advantages  are  of  a  very  high  order.  The  upper  end  of  Bear  creek 
valley  wherein  the  town  is  located,  although  contracted  in  area,  is  agriculturally  im- 
portant, and  lies  on  the  direct  route  to  California.  The  condition  of  the  farms  near 
by  is  very  advanced.  All  the  ordinary  crops  yield  finely,  and  the  ground  is  tolerably 
well  cultivated.  A  few  scientific  and  reasoning  farmers  and  stock  growers  have  located 
themselves  in  the  vicinity,  and  their  influence  has  been  felt  in  the  rapid  improvement 
of  agriculture.  The  farms  are  mainly  devoted  to  wheat,  oats,  barley  and  corn,  which 
yield  good  crops.  The  grasses — timothy,  redtop,  clover  and  alfalfa — grow  wherever 
sufficient  moisture  can  be  had,  the  latter  (introduced  by  W.  C.  Myer  in  1860)  doing 
excellently.  The  common  vegetables  and  fruits  (the  latter  including  the  apple,  plum, 
peach,  pear,  prunes  of  several  sorts,  cherry,  apricot,  nectarine  and  grape),  flourish  well, 
sometimes  extremelv  so.     Berries  and  currants  also  do  well,  and  are  quite  a  resource. 


i 


CHAPTER    XLIIL 


JACKSONVILLE. 

An  Interesting  Town- Its  Foundation  Growth— Social  Progress— Buildings— Law  and  Order- Lynch  Law— 
A  Picture  of  Flush  Times -Judicial  Matters— Interesting  Episodes—Caucus  of  Women  -The  Table  Rock 
"  Sentinel  "—Other  Newspapers— Subsequent  Events. 

The  county  seat  of  Jackson  county  is  the  oldest  town  in  Southern  Oregon,  and  a 
point  of  the  greatest  historical  interest.  Moderate  and  unobtrusive,  half  crowning  a 
low  range  of  hills,  half  hidden  in  the  edge  of  the  valley,  at  its  southwestern  extremity; 
people  wonder  why  it  was  built  in  an  apparently  isolated  situation,  but  the  story  is 
simple.  In  the  early  days  the  whisper  of  a  marvelously  rich  gold  discovery  was  heard; 
it  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth  till  it  was  told  across  the  Siskiyous,  in  Northern  Cali- 
fornia, and  in  the  settlements  of  the  Willamette.  Soon  the  silent  hills  and  gulches 
were  touched  as  if  by  the  wand  of  an  enchanter,  and  whitened  with  the  tents  of  thous- 
ands of  eager  hunters ;  the  luxuriant  grass  and  wild  flowers  that  had  sheltered  the 
timid  deer  and  antelope,  or  had  yielded  only  to  the  stealthy  moccasin,  were  trampled 
into  dust  by  the  heavier  feet  of  the  stronger  race;  the  lordly  pines  and  oaks  were 
stricken  down  ;  the  hills  and  gulches  seamed  and  scarred  by  the  miner's  pick  ;  the  town 
site  itself  burrowed  and  honey-combed  wdth  drifts  and  tunnels,  and  the  oppressive 
silence  of  nature  changed,  in  a  few  months,  to  a  scene  of  restless  activity.  Time  has 
healed  the  ugly  scars ;  nearly  every  trace  of  the  ephemeral  city  is  gone ;  but  the  Jack- 
sonville of  to-day,  with  its  pleasant  surroundings,  thrift  and  culture,  is  the  substantial 
outgrowth  of  the  chaos  and  social  fever  engendered  by  an  iiulustvial  avalanche,  so 
common  in  the  mining  regions. 

Much  of  the  history  of  Jacksonville  is  unwritten;  but,  fortunately,  many  of  those 
who  dug  its  foundations,  and  reared  its  schools  and  churches,  still  survive,  and  upon 
the  faithfulness  of  their  memories  must  depend  the  accuracy  of  the  records.  It  was  in 
December,  1851,  or  January,  1852,  that  Rich  gulch  was  struck,  the  first  gold  being 
taken  out  near  the  present  crossing  of  Oregon  street.  Gold  had  been  found  somewhat 
earlier,  on  Jackson  creek,  nearly  opposite  the  present  City  brewery,  by  two  young 
men,  who  communicated  the  fact  to  James  Cluggage  and  J.  R.  Poole,  who  were  travel- 
ing through  the  valley.  The  I'esult  was  the  discovery  of  Rich  gulch  by  Cluggage  and 
Poole,  who  associated  with  them  James  Skinner  and  Wilson,  who  conjointly  claimed 
four  hundred  feet  of  the  gulch.  It  was  not  long  until  the  secret  of  a  "  discovery," 
where  men  could  wash  out  a  pint  cup  of  gold,  daily,  leaked  out.  In  February,  1852, 
every  foot  of  the  gulch  was  staked  out  and  claimed,  and  by  March  the  surrouniling 
hills  and  gulches  were,  in  spite  of  the  evident  hostility  of  the  Indians,  tilled  with  the 
rapidly  swelling  population,  and  soon  the  first  discovery  was  the  center  of  an  extensive 


360  SOUTHERN  OEEGOX. 

miuing  region.  In  February  a  trading  post  was  opened  in  a  tent  by  xippler  &  Kenny, 
packers  from  Yreka.  It  was  by  no  means  a  bazaar,  the  stock  comprising  only  a  few 
tools  and  a  little  "  torn  iron,"  the  roughest  clothing  and  boots,  and  some  "  black  strap  " 
tobacco,  and  a  liberal  supply  of  whisky — not  the  royal  nectar,  perhaps,  but,  never- 
theless, the  solace  of  the  miner  in  heat  or  cold,  in  prosperity  and  in  adversity.  Other 
traders  followed,  bringing  supplies  of  every  kind,  pitching  their  tents  on  the  most 
available  ground,  and  finding  plenty  of  customers  flush  with  treasure.  In  March  the 
first  log  cabin  was  erected  by  W.  W.  Fowler,  near  the  head  of  Main,  the  only  street  in 
the  embryo  city.  Lumber  was  "whip-sawed"  in  the  gulches,  at  the  rate  of  $250 
per  thousand,  or  purchased  in  small  quantities  from  a  saw  mill  up  the  valley  ;  clap- 
board houses,  with  real  sawed  doors  and  window-frames,  began  to  rise  among  the  tents; 
the  little,  busy  town  emerged  from  the  chrysalis  state,  and  before  the  end  of  summer 
assumed  an  air  of  solidity,  and  fairly  entered  on  the  second  stage  of  its  existence. 
During  this  time  a  marked  change  had  taken  place  in  the  social  structure  of  Jack- 
sonville. Gamblers,  courtesans,  sharpers  of  every  kind,  the  class  that  struck  prosper- 
ous mining  camps  like  a  blight,  flocked  to  the  new  El  Dorado.  Saloons  multiplied 
beyond  necessity  ;  monte  and  faro  games  were  in  full  blast,  and  the  strains  of  music 
allured  the  "  honest  miner,"  and  led  his  feet  into  many  a  dangerous  place,  where  he 
and  his  treasure  were  soon  parted.  Notwithstanding  the  loose  and  reckle?s  character 
of  a  large  portion  of  the  population,  unrestrained  by  the  refining  influences  of  organized 
society,  crime  was  remarkably  rare.  It  is  true  there  was  no  written  law.  The  hastily 
prepared  handful  of  territorial  laws,  borrowed  from  the  Iowa  code,  gensrally  relating 
to  property  rights,  had  hardly  crystallized  into  shape,  and  were  inoperative  at  so 
remote  a  point  from  the  seat  of  territorial  government,  and  where  there  was  neither 
countv  organization  nor  judicial  officers.  But  there  was  a  law  higlier,  stronger,  more 
effective  than  written  codes — the  stern  necessity  of  mutual  protection — and  a  strong 
element  had  the  courage  and  will  to  enforce  it.  Justice  was  administered  b}-  the  people's 
court ;  its  findings  were  singularly  correct,  its  decrees  inflexible,  its  punishments  certain. 
In  1852  the  first  court  of  this  character  was  convened.  A  miner  named  Potts  was 
shot  dead,  without  provocation,  by  a  gambler  named  Brown.  Immediately  every 
claim  was  vacated.  Men,  not  angry,  but  outraged  by  the  dastardly  deed,  gathered  in 
hundreds,  and  the  assassin  was  secured.  That  fine  sense  of  chivalry  and  fairness, 
common,  even  on  the  frontier,  prompted  a  proper  investigation,  and  in  the  absence  of 
even  a  justice  of  the  peace,  W.  W.  Fowler,  now  a  resident  of  California,  was  appointed 
judge.  A  jury  of  twelve  men  was  selected.  The  case  was  tried  by  the  rules  of  right 
and  wrong,  divested  of  legal  technicalities ;  Brown  was  clearly  proved  guilty  of  a 
cowardly  murder,  and  taken  to  an  oak  grove,  a  little  north  of  the  site  of  the  Presby- 
terian church,  hanged,  and  buried  under  a  tree,  a  few  yards  west  of  where  the  church 
now  stands,  and  the  remains  have  never  been  removed.  The  court  was  quietly  dis- 
solved, the  judge  disclaiming  the  right  to  exercise  further  jurisdiction,  but  the  lesson 
was  salutary  and  effective. 

This  summer  a  partial  survey  of  the  town  was  made  by  Henry  Klippel  and 

Smith,  who  laid  out  Oregon  and  California  streets.  In  the  fall  of  1852  the  demand 
for  provisions  largeh'  exceeded  the  supply,  and  when  the  exceptionally  severe  winter 
set  in  there  was  serious  cause  of  alarm.     Snow  commenced  falling  heavily  about  the 


-M  4^.-^^4.>. 


-'i 


^^-»** 


WALLINB-LlTHrPORTLANDfOH. 


Bird's  Eye  View  of  Jacksonvil 


^^--- 


-Atr-SBiffiSSJ^  •:j»„-ftE'«^' 


l^illil^M^/^ 


illli^^^.*4ll^l 


..^** 


,1^  J5 


,^^S?ft.*s 


^  JS„^'s^' 


J 


/!^D  THE  Rogue  River  Valley,  Oregon. 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  361 

middle  of  November  until  all  trails  were  completely  blocked,  aud  ingress  to  the  crowded 
cami:)  rendered  impossible.  Flour  at  once  rose  to  a  dollar  per  pound  and  the  supply- 
was  soon  exhausted.  Tobacco  sold  readily  at  a  dollar  per  ounce,  but  salt  was  priceless. 
Several  adventurous  men  crossed  the  Siskiyous  on  snow-shoes,  returning-  with  a  small 
supply  and  realized  a  handsome  profit.  Fortunately  beef  was  plenty,  game  was  easily 
obtained  and  numbers  of  men  subsisted  for  months  entirely  on  meat,  in  many  cases 
without  salt,  and  suffered  no  serious  consequences.  In  the  spring  of  1853  necessity 
compelled  the  creation  of  a  judicial  tribunal.  Disputes  regarding  rights  to  water,  to 
mining  ground  or  other  species  of  property  were  frequent,  and  adjustments  by  arbitra- 
tion had  generally  proved  unsatisfactory.  By  common  consent  an  immense  mass  meet- 
ing was  held  on  Jackson  creek  and  attended  by  citizens  of  the  town  and  miners  from 
Rich  gulch.  At  this  meeting  a  man  named  Rogers  was  appointed  "  alcalde  " — after 
the  Spanish  style — and  invested  with  unlimited  jurisdiction.  It  was  soon  apparent, 
however,  that  Rogers  was  unworthy  of  public  confidence  and  the  fountain  head  of 
power  was  again  drawn  upon.  A  dis23ute  arose  between  two  miner's,  Sims  and  Sprenger, 
involving  the  joint  ownership  of  a  mining  claim,  in  which  Sims  denied  his  partner's 
rights.  An  appeal  was  made  to  the  alcaldi's  court  and  Sims  was  sustained.  The  case 
was  one  of  peculiar  hardship;  Sims'  partner  had  held  the  claim  while  Sims  was  absent 
in  the  Willamette  valley,  and  during  the  winter  had  been  unfortunate  enough  to  have 
a  leg  broken.  The  wronged  man  now  appealed  to  the  people.  He  recited  his  griev- 
ances from  camp  to  camp  until  the  mining  ^^opulation  was  thoroughly  aroused.  There 
was  a  keen  sense  of  justice  among  the  frontiersmen,  and  a  long  established  principle  of 
their  simple  ethics  demanded  that  a  man  should  be  the  friend  and  champion  of  his 
partner,  under  all  circumstances,  instead  of  his  oppressor.  A  rousing  meeting  was 
held,  attended  by  over  a  thousand  miners.  The  alcalde  stubbornly  stood  by  his  decis- 
ion and  the  excitement  became  intense.  Angry  speeches  were  made  and  the  officer  was 
threatened  with  violence,  when  a  miner  proposed  the  election  of  a  "superior"  alcalde; 
holding  that  the  power  that  created  one  court  was  competent  to  create  another.  The 
idea  struck  the  crowd  as  sound  and  a  superior  judge  was  determined  on.  There  was 
but  one  man  worthy  of  the  honor,  a  high  spirited,  educated  miner,  a  native  of  Connecti- 
cut, named  U.  S.  Hayden  ;  and  against  his  earnest  protestations,  he  was  unanimously 
proclaimed  "chief  justice."  A  bailiff  was  appointed,  a  jury  empanelled  and  the  case 
brought  before  His  Honor  on  its  merits.  The  appellant  appeared  by  his  attorneys,  P.  P. 
Prim  who  had  exchanged  Blackstone  for  the  pick  and  shovel  and  by  Daniel  Kenny, 
who  made  up  for  lack  of  legal  knowledge  by  a  keen  perception  of  frontier  character 
and  the  soft  spots  of  a  miners'  jury.  Sims,  the  respondent,  secured  the  services  of 
Oiange  Jacobs,  a  young  attorney  from  Michigan,  recently  arrived ;  more  ferailiar  with 
written  law  than  with  the  unwritten  code  of  the  mining  regions.  As  might  be  expected, 
Sims'  partner  was  reinstated  in  his  right  and  the  decision  of  the  court  and  jury  stood 
un(|uestioned.  Two  of  the  attorneys  in  this  case— both  still  living— subsequently  occu- 
l)ied  high  places  on  the  bench.  Prim  having  been  for  eighteen  years  circuit  judge  and 
for  one  term  chief  justice  of  Oregon  ;  and  Jacobs  having  been  for  two  terms  chief  justices 
of  Washington  territoiy,  and  twice  a  delegate  to  congress  while  the  third,  Kenuy, 
and  Alcalde  Hayden  have  gone  before  the  tribunal  higher  than  all— from  which 
there  is  no  appeal ;  the  latter  having   been  honored   for  twenty  consecutive  years   by 


362  SOUTHEEN  OREGON. 

subordinate  judicial  station  and  when  death  removed  the  ermine  from  tlie  shouklers  of 
the  worthy  officer  it  was  jjure  and  stainless. 

The  progress  of  Jacksonville  in  1853,  was  marked  by  the  accession  of  many 
respectable  families.     Hitherto,  Mrs.  Napoleon  Evans,  Mrs.  Jane  McCully  and  Mrs. 

Lawless,  had  made  up  the  sum  total  of  ladies'  society.     The   emigration  of  this 

spring  poured  in  a  large  number  of  settlers,  many  of  whom  occupied  the  rich  lands  of 
the  adjacent  valley  while  others  located  in  the  town.  The  improvement  in  society  was 
more  apparent  than  in  the  town  itself  Many  buildings  were  erected  but  they  were 
neither  ornate  nor  durable,  being  hastily  constructed,  and  only  to  serve  the  necessities 
of  the  hour.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  all  sujDplies  were  brought  in  on  pack  animals,  not 
a  single  jmne  of  glass  was  used  in  Jacksonville  that  year,  but  cotton  drilling  was  a 
reasonably  convenient  substitute.  One  of  the  obstacles  to  the  substantial  imj)rove- 
ment  of  the  town  was  the  uncertainty  of  title.  Cluggage,  one  of  the  discoverers  of  the 
mines,  had  taken  a  donation  claim  covering  the  town  site,  but  wisely  disclaimed  any 
intention  of  interfering  with  the  vested  rights  of  miners  as  he  well  knew  that  in  a  mining 
camp  peaceable  possession  was  a  title  that  the  government  itself  regarded  as  valid. 
Many  of  the  citizens  had  occupied  lots  and  built  upon  them  prior  to  Cluggage's  appli- 
cation. Others,  confident  that  the  framers  of  the  donation  law  never  contemi)lated  the 
bestowal  of  town  sites,  chose  their  locations  and  built  their  homes  with  the  full  knowl- 
edge that  Cluggage  had  applied  for  a  jDatent.  Between  these  two  classes  and  the 
claimant  there  was  continual  distrust  and  bickering  ;  the  uncertainty  of  the  issue  pre- 
vented substantial  improvement  and  the  subsequent  success  of  Cluggage  proved  the 
greatest  curse  that  could  be  inflicted  on  a  struggling  community. 

1853  was  a  year  of  troubles  and  excitement  in  the  new  town.  A  deadly  war  had 
been  determined  on  by  the  Indians  who  were  every  day  more  emboldened  by  success  : 
more  eager  for  blood  as  each  successive  white  life  was  taken.  Several  settlers  in  the 
outskirts  of  the  valley  had  been  picked  off  by  straggling  Indians.  One  afternoon  in 
August  the  crack  of  a  "  Siwash"  rifle  was  heard  just  in  -the  eastern  edge  of  town  ;  a 
riderless  mule  with  a  bloody  saddle  galloped  madly  along  California  street,  and  was 
recognized  as  that  of  a  prominent  citizen,  Thomas  Wills,  who  had  been  absent  from 
town  but  for  a  few  hours.  Armed  men  went  instantly  to  where  the  shot  had  been 
heard,  and  soon  returned  with  the  bleeding  body  of  Mr.  Wills,  who  had  received  a 
mortal  wound,  and  survived  only  a  few  days.  This  audacious  act  angered  and  alarmed 
the  townspeople,  and  among  the  families  there  was  intense  excitement,  there  being 
scarcely  a  bullet-proof  habitation  in  town,  which  could  be  easily  ajiproached  under 
cover  from  nearly  every  direction.  To  make  matters  worse,  arms  were  by  no  means 
plenty,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  had  an  attack  been  made  in  force,  and  the  sav- 
ages been  willing  to  risk  their  skins,  they  might  have  captured  and  destroyed  the  little 
town.  The  people,  aroused  to  a  sense  of  danger,  effected  a  partial  organization  for 
defense.  Pickets  were  thrown  out  nightly,  and  the  greatest  vigilance  was  exercised  by 
day,  but  notwithstanding  all  jirecautions  only  a  few  days  elapsed  until  a  man  named 
Nolan  was  shot  dead  within  rifle  range  of  the  business  street.  This  species  of  warfare 
w^as  exasperating,  and  it  was  but  a  few  days  before  the  Indian  method  of  reprisal  was 
resorted  to.  Two  Indian  boys,  "  Little  Jim"  and  another,  mere  striplings,  came  into 
town,  perhaps  from  motives  of  curiosity,  possibly  as  spies.     It  was  scarcely  probable 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  3G3 

that  they  were  the  miscreants  who  lay  in  wait  at  the  very  thresliokl  [of  the  town  to 
skiy  unoffending  whites ;  there  was  not  the  slightest  evidence  that  they  had  committed 
any  crime — they  were  too  young  to  be  warriors — but  in  the  bitter  anger  of  the  moment 
it  was  sufficient  that  they  were  Indians.  They  were  soon  seized  by  an  excited  crowd 
who  scarcely  knew  what  to  do  with  the  terror-stricken  prisoners,  and  some  of  the 
roughest  shrank  from  the  commission  of  an  act  that  they  knew  was  not  brave,  and 
that  they  feared  was  hardly  just.  The  mob  swayed  and  surged,  wavering  between 
desire  and  doubt,  when  T.  McF.  Patton  sprang  upon  a  wagon  and  in  a  few  words 
decided  the  question.  The  boys  were  hanged  on  an  oak  on  the  bank  of  Jackson  creek, 
while  protesting  piteously  that  they  had  never  wronged  the  whites.  Sober  reflection 
brought  regret  for  an  act  that  by  no  means  exalted  the  white  character,  and  it  is 
very  probable  that  the  dreadful  savagery  subsequently  experienced  by  white  families 
was  in  retaliation  for  a  deed  that,  in  calmer  moments,  was  regretted  as  neither  cour- 
ageous nor  justifiable. 

This  was  the  last  session  of  the  people's  court  in  Jackson  county,  for  on  Sep- 
tember 5,  1853,  a  regular  court  was  held  in  Jacksonville,  by  Hon.  Matthew  P. 
Deady,  who  had  just  been  appointed  United  States  district  judge  for  the  Territory  of 
Oregon,  by  President  Pierce,  and  it  is  almost  needless  to  say  that  his  honor  presided 
with  distinguished  ability.  The  officers  of  tlie  court  were,  L.  F.  Grover  (subsequently 
governor  of  Oregon  and  senator  in  congress),  United  States  district  attorney  ^jro  lem. ; 
Columbus  Sims,  territorial  prosecuting  attorney ;  Joseph  W.  Drew,  deputy  marshal ; 
Matthew  G.  Kennedy,  sheriff". 

The  first  case  tried  was  R.  Hereford  vs.  David  M.  Thorpe — in  assumpsit ;  and 
the  court  adjourned  on  September  ninth.  The  extension  of  the  territorial  juris- 
diction over  Jackson  county  was  exceedingly  satisfactory  to  the  people,  for  it  sur- 
rounded them  with  the  decent  forms  of  law,  to  which  they  had  been  accustomed 
elsewhere,  and  relieved  them  of  a  great  responsibility.  The  crude  judicial  system 
born  of  pioneer  necessity  now  passed  away,  but  it  can  be  safely  said  that  it  was  stained 
with  few  errors,  though  sometimes  swayed  by  passion ;  and,  simple  as  it  was,  it 
afforded  ample  protection  to  the  community.  During  the  spring  of  this  year  a  large 
religious  element  arrived  with  the  immigration,  mostly  from  the  western  and  middle 
states,  and  steps  were  taken  to  found  a  Methodist  church.  The  most  active  workers  were 
Rev.  Joseph  S.  Smith,  afterwards  representative  in  congress  from  Oregon,  who  had 
been  assigned  to  Jacksonville  as  pastor,  his  wife  and  the  Misses  Overbeck  and  Royal,  the 
two  latter  going  from  camp  to  camp  and  soliciting  money  from  the  miners  for  the  church. 
Times  were  flush  and  there  were  few  financial  difficulties,  as  the  garablere  and 
sporting  men,  with  proverbial  liberality,  provided  a  large  portion  of  the  means,  and 
the  edifice  was  soon  under  way.  Possibly,  the  sporting  fraternity,  to  use  their  own 
phrase,  were  "hedging"  against  bad  fortune  in  the  world  to  come.  The  church  was  not 
finished  that  year,  but  it  was  removed  to  the  spot  where  it  now  stands,  finished  by  T. 
F.  Royal,  and  used  as  a  joint  place  of  worship  by  Methodists  and  Presbyterians  for 
over  twenty-five  years.  In  May,  of  this  year,  communication  was  opened  up  by  Oram, 
Rogers  &  Co.,  of  Yreka,  a  branch  of  the  express  house  of  Adams  &  Co.,  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. C.  C.  Beekman,  still  a  prosperous  and  honored  citizen  of  Jacksonville,  was  reg- 
ularly dispatched  as  messenger,  extending  his  trips  over  the  lonely  mountains  to  Ores- 


364  SOUTHEEN  OREGON. 

cent  City,  cari-ying  letters  and  papers,  and  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  in  gold 
dust.  It  looks  strange  that,  during  all  the  troublous  times,  the  plucky  messenger  was 
never  molested,  although  travelling  generally  alone,  and  always  choosing  the  night  to 
cross  the  Siskiyous.  On  August  27,  the  first  child  was  born  in  Jacksonville — a  son  to 
Doctor  and  Mrs.  McCully — and  every  miner  and  trader  in  the  neighborhood  consid- 
ered himself  a  godfather  to  the  newcomer,  and  made  it  his  especial  business  to  spoil  the 
graceless  little  scamp,  and  teach  him  lessons  that  required  years  of  Sunday  school 
attendance  to  eradicate,  and  the  boy's  name  is  James  Cluggage  McCully,  in  honor  of 
the  founder  of  the  town.  This  was  a  year  of  the  greatest  prosperity.  Exceedingly  rich 
ground  had  been  struck,  not  only  on  the  main  creek,  but  on  both  its  branches.  Large 
stocks  of  merchandise  had  been  packed  on  mules  from  Crescent  City,  the  nearest  sea- 
port and  distant  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  A  hasty  peace  had  been  patched  up 
with  the  Indians,  and  the  miners,  allowed  to  work  without  molestation,  poured  large 
quantities  of  treasure  into  the  town,  which  was  now  the  distributing  point  for  a  large 
territory.  On  Saturdays  and  Sundays  the  streets  were  crowded  with  buyers  and  sellers, 
Mexican  packers,  red-shirted  miners,  ranchmen,  and  an  occasional  "siwash"  who  moved 
sullenly  among  the  motley  throng,  with  ill-concealed  hatred  of  the  strangers,  who  were 
pushing  him  from  his  hunting  grounds.  Night,  however,  was  the  season  of  gaiety  and 
enjoyment.  The  miner  was  always  prodigal  of  his  dust,  probably  always  will  be,  and 
the  Jacksonville  miner  was  no  exception.  Gaming  and  drinking  were  little  disgrace, 
if  the  one  was  successful,  or  the  other  not  pushed  to  the  verge  of  debauchery,  and  it  is 
often  remarked  by  early  settlers  that  there  never  was  a  mining  camp  where  personal 
liberty  was  less  restrained,  better  enjoyed  or  less  abused  than  in  the  Jacksonville  of 
'53.  This  year  a  kiln  of  brick  was  burned  for  the  store  of  Morford  &  Davis,  and  its 
walls  were  well  advanced  before  the  close  of  the  season.  Marl  from  the  "desert" 
beyond  Bear  creek  was  used  instead  of  lime,  while,  strangely  enough,  there  was  a  splen- 
did ledge  of  the  finest  limestone  within  ten  miles  of  town,  and  daily  passed  over  by 
scores  of  niiners.  The  building,  the  first  brick  in  the  town,  was  finished  in  the 
next  spring,  by  Maury  &  Davis,  and  stood  among  the  best  j^reserved  buildings  in 
Jacksonville,  until  burned  in  1873,  and  replaced  by  the  present  town  hall.  During 
the  pinching  want  of  the  winter  of  this  year  there  were  many  sharp  and  decided  con- 
trasts. Generally,  the  small  store  of  flour  was  fairly  divided  till  it  was  exhausted,  but 
occasionally  it  was  hidden  with  an  almost  pardonable  selfishness  by  some  one  who  was 
more  lucky  than  generous.  One  evening  when  flour  had  become  so  scarce  that  it  was 
no  longer  talked  of,  Henry  Klippel  and  John  Hill  man  were  passing  through  a  back 
lot  on  their  way  home,  when  Klij)pel  stopped  suddenly  and  said,  "John,  I  smell  bread." 
"So  do  I,"  said  Hillman ;  "let's  prospect."  In  a  few  moments  they  found  two  delicious 
loaves,  set  out  to  cool,  in  the  rear  of  jiremises  occupied  by  a  trader  named  Sam.  Gold- 
stein. The  temptation  was  great,  but,  with  prosier  generosity,  they  divided  with  the 
owner  and  took  but  one  loaf  The  next  morning  the  two  gentlemen  visited  the  trader, 
j)riced  clothing  and  boots  till  his  patience  flagged,  and  at  last  ventured  to  touch  on  the 
subject  of  breadstuffs.  "Ah,  ha!"  exclaimed  the  merchant;  'T  smells  somedings;  you 
ish  de  rascals  dot  stole  mine  loaf!"  "We  are,"  replied  Klippel,  with  the  air  of  a  man 
who  had  the  situation  in  hand;  "and  we  just  propose  to  have  you  divide  flour  as  we 
divided  bread  with  you  last  night,  so,   shell   it   out."     Approaching    the  boys  with 


°      i 


#- 


ST 


% 


St^isilfci' 


^ 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  3fi5 

ui^lifted  hands,  aud  a  couutenance  beaming  with  truth,  Samuel,  in  a  voice  husky  with 
emotion,  assured  them,  "so  help  him  Abraham,"  that  it  took  the  last  spoonful  of  flour 
in  the  house  to  make  that  loaf,  and,  burying  his  face  in  his  hands,  he  wept  at  his  utter 
destitution.  The  boys  departed  in  silence,  deeply  touched,  but  subsequent  information 
as  to  the  state  of  Sam's  larder,  caused  a  life-long  regret  that  they  had  not  taken  the 
other  loaf  During  the  winter  of  this  memorable  year,  salt  was  the  precious  article, 
but  neighbors  kindly  divided  with  each  other — a  pinch  at  a  time — and  even  after  the 
lapse  of  thirty  years,  old  pioneers  in  the  country  bring  little  presents  to  acquaintances 
in  town,  always  refusing  pay,  with  the  remark,  "Could  I  take  anything  from  a  friend 
who  divided  salt  with  me  in  '53?" 

At  the  close  of  1853  Jacksonville  was  in  a  prosperous  condition.  It  was  now  the 
center  of  trade  and  the  distributing  point  for  a  large  area  of  rich  agricultural  land,  as 
well  as  an  extensive  mining  region.  Those  carrying  the  heaviest  stocks  at  the  begin- 
ning of  1854  were  Maury  &  Davis,  Appier  &  Kenny,  Birdsye  &  Etliuger,  Sam  Gold- 
stein, John  Anderson,  J.  Bruner,  Wells  &  Friedlander,  Fowler  &  Davis,  and  Little  & 
Westgate ;  the  latter  being  also  the  proprietors  of  a  flourishing  saloon  and  bowling- 
alley.  A  number  of  smaller  establishments  were  kept  by  Joseph  Holman  and  others, 
who  have  almost  passed  from  memory.  A  commodious  hotel — the  Robinson  House, 
on  the  site  of  the  present  United  States  Hotel — was  owned  and  conducted  by  Dr.  Jesse 
Robinson,  while  a  private  boarding  house,  patronized  by  the  eliie,  was  managed  by 
Mrs.  Gass,  afterwards  Mrs.  W.  W.  Fowler.  The  Arkansas  stable,  yet  standing,  a 
mouldering  relic  of  the  past,  was  run  by  Joe  Davis,  and  was  a  flourishing  institution. 
Dr.  McCully  was  proprietor  of  a  bakery,  and  Hazeltine  and  Gilson  were  in  the  same 
business.  Pyle  &  McDonough  carried  on  a  successful  carpenter  shop,  and  quite  an 
extensive  furniture  shop  was  run  by  James  S.  Burpee.  Zigler  &  Martin,  Cozart  & 
Ralls,  and  Thomas  Hopwood  did  the  blacksmithing,  and  the  latter  is  credited  with 
having  made  the  first  plow  manufactured  in  Rogue  river  valley.  The  winter  of  185:>— t 
was  exceptionally  cold  and  dry,  diminishing  the  water  supply  and  checking  the  yield 
of  gold  from  the  mines  ;  but  most  of  the  miners  were  flush  and  enjoyed  the  idle  months 
in  gaiety  or  in  dissipation,  adding  largely  to  the  fast  growing  town.  Society  began  to 
crystallize  into  shape,  and  caste  slowly  asserted  the  right  to  draw  social  lines.  The 
gentler  sex,  increasing  in  numbers,  began  to  refine  the  community,  and  draw,  as  a 
magnet  attracts  to  itself,  the  better  portion  of  society  from  the  rougher  mass,  and  dic- 
tated greater  conventionalism  in  dress  and  manners.  The  rough,  unkempt,  blue- 
shirted  miner,  or  greasy  packer,  could  hardly  cope  in  ladies'  society  with  the  young 
bloods,  attired  in  "boiled  shirts"  and  white  vests,  and  those  who  desired  the  f/(/m^ 
among  the  creme  dc  la  creme  of  Jacksonville  society  were  soon  provided  with  broad- 
cloth and  fine  linen,  and  their  wardrobes  were  always  at  the  service  of  fi-iends,  during 
the  owner's  absence.  With  the  increase  of  families  came  a  necessity  for  a  school,  and 
early  in  the  winter  one  was  organized  by  Miss  Royal.  The  attendance  was  small,  and 
the  studies  did  not  run  high  in  the  educational  scale ;  but,  nevertheless,  it  gratified  the 
pride  of  the  friends  of  education,  and  many  a  miner  shook  an  ounce  from  his  purse 
into  the  hand  of  the  enterprising  teacher,  when  she  visited  the  claims  soliciting  contri- 
butions for  the  support  of  the"  little  school,  that  through  many  struggles,  and  some 
subsequent  opposition,  has  grown  to  be  one  of  the  best   in  the  state.     As  population 


366  SOUTHERN  OREGON 

increased,  aud  the  means  of  civilization  were  nearer,  there  seemed  to  be  no  jjrogress  in 
public  morality.  A  regulai-  court,  with  all  the  necessary  legal  machinery,  had  been 
organized  under  the  territorial  laws;  but  it  failed  to  awe  evil-doers,  or  to  suppress 
outlawry,  as  effectually  as  the  more  primitive  mode  of  the  pioneers  that  preceded  it. 
An  examination  of  the  court  records  for  1854  shows  an  alarming  increase  of  crime, 
from  murder  and  raj)e,  to  larceny.  The  civil  docket  is  burdened  with  every  sjjecies 
of  litigation,  and  it  may  have  been  that  increased  facilities  for  wrangling  made  men 
more  captious  and  less  inclined  to  observe  their  obligations,  and  gave  assurance  to 
criminals.  But  whether  or  not  this  view  is  correct,  the  fact  remains  that  the  record 
is  extremely  discreditable.  On  the  sixth  day  of  February  a  new  judge  called  court. 
The  enemies  of  Judge  Deady  had  been  busy  at  Washington,  it  is  said,  and  by  the 
most  gross  misrepresentation  procured  his  displacement,  the  executive  appointing  O. 
B.  McFadden,  a  citizen  of  Pensylvania,  to"  the  territorial  bench.  Court  was  held  in  a 
building  next  to  the  "  New  State  "  saloon,  and  it  was  a  most  unpretentious  temple  of 
justice.  The  bench  was  a  dry-goods  box,  covered  with  a  blue  blanket,  and  it  is  quite 
probable  that  the  uncomfortable  seat  occupied  by  the  judge  was  so  irksome,  that  it  had 
something  to  do  with  his  rapid  dispensation  of  justice.  The  officers  of  the  court  were 
Columbus  Sims,  prosecuting  attorney ;  G.  Kennedy,  sheriff;  and  Lycurgus  Jackson, 
clerk.  On  the  first  day  of  court,  Payne  P.  Prim  and  D.  B.  Brenan  w^ere  admitted  to 
the  bar,  and  the  grand  jury  was  empaneled.  On  the  seventh,  true  bills  were  returned 
against  Indians  George  and  Tom,  charging  them  with  the  murder  of  James  C.  Kyle, 
on  1853 ;  October  7,  on  the  same  day  they  were  arraigned  and  put  upon  trial.  Prim 
and  Brenan  having  been  apjiointed  counsel  for  the  accused.  The  proceedings  were 
brief,  the  evidence,  mostly  that  of  Indians,  who  were  anxious  to  preserve  peace  with 
the  whites,  left  no  doubt  as  to  the  guilt  of  the  j^risouers,  and  the  jury,  with  little 
deliberation,  announced  a  verdict  of  guilty.  In  the  meantime  the  grand  jury  had 
found  another  indictment  against  Indian  Thompson,  for  the  murder  of  Edwards,  in  the 
spring  of  1853,  and  he,  too,  was  quickly  convicted.  On  the  ninth,  it  appears  from  the 
record,  Indian  George  was  sentenced  to  be  "  hanged  by  the  neck  until  dead,"  the  time 
of  execution  being  fixed  between  the  hours  of  ten  and  twelve  of  the  succeeding  day ; 
but  it  does  not  appear  that  the  other  two  convicted  murderers  were  ever  sentenced ; 
and  the  impression  is  left  that  time  was  so  valuable  that,  in  their  cases,  the  fbrnrality 
was  dispensed  with.  In  passing  sentence  upon  George,  his  honor  assured  the  prisoner, 
with  becoming  gravity,  that  he  had  had  as  fair  a  trial,  and  as  ample  means  of  defense, 
as  if  he  had  belonged  to  the  white  race ;  but  the  lightning  speed  with  which  the  judge 
hurried  the  doomed  wretch  out  of  the  world  throws  a  slight  cloud  on  the  sincerity  of 
his  remarks.  Indeed,  it  can  not  be  fairly  doubted  that  if  the  murderer  had  been  a 
white,  he  would  have  been  granted  thirty  days  for  repentance ;  but  his  honor  probably 
concluded  that  the  Indian  had  no  soul,  and  repentance  was  therefore  improbable, 
although  he  closed  by  requesting  God  to  have  mercy  on  the  spiritual  portion  of  the 
culprit.  Though  the  record  is  silent  as  to  the  other  two  convicted  murderers,  all  three 
were  swung  from  the  same  gallows  on  the  tenth  of  the  same  month.  Large  numbers 
of  people  came  from  the  mining  camps,  and  a  few,  whom  the  news  had  reached  out  in' 
the  valley,  came  into  town  to  witness  the  first  legal  execution ,  but  the  event  was 
marked  with  decorum,  and  nine  out  often  acquiesced  in  the  justice  of  the  punishment. 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  367 

Thiy  was  the  last  court  held  ia  Jacksonville  by  Judge  McFadden.  Judge  Deady's 
friends  had  righted  matters  at  Washington  and  procured  his  re-instatement,  McFadden 
being  transferred  to  Washington  territory. 

On  May  1,  1854,  Judge  Deady  convened  court,  with  Drew  as  marshal ;  Kennedy, 
sheriff;  R.  E.  Stratton,  United  States  prosecuting  attorney;  Stephen  F.  Chadwick 
(subsequently  secretary  of  state  and  ex-officio  governor  of  Oregon),  as  territorial  prose- 
cuting attorney  pro  tern. ;  and  Jackson,  clerk.  Little  of  public  interest  transpired  at 
this  term,  except  some  futile  presentments  against  several  murderers  who  could  not  be 
reached,  the  docket  being  mostly  burdened  with  civil  cases  that  seemed  to  multiply 
from  term  to  term.  This  year  the  ]Methodist  church  building  was  completed,  by  Pyle 
&  McDonough  and  David  Linn.  The  frame  had  been  removed  to  the  present  site, 
which  had  been  deeded  gratuitously  by  James  Cluggage  to  the  conference.  A  new 
subscription  list  was  opened  by  Rev.  T.  F.  Royal,  successor  to  Rev.  Joseph  Smith,  and 
early  in  the  fall  the  building  was  formally  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  God,  by  Rev. 
J.  H.  Wilbur,  presiding  elder  of  the  Umpqua  district.  While  Protestant  churches  and 
schools  were  being  organized,  it  would  have  been  strange,  indeed,  if  so  promising  a 
field  had  been  overlooked  by  the  Roman  Catholic  arch-bishop  of  Oregon.  That  zeal, 
springing  from  the  unswerving  faith  of  the  priesthood  and  children  of  the  old  church, 
that  fears  neither  the  rigor  of  the  Arctic  winter,  nor  the  deadly  fevers  of  the  torrid 
zone,  has  already  manifested  itself  here.  No  matter  how  small  in  numbers  a  Catholic 
community  may  be,  they  are  not  long  suffered  to  want  for  spiritual  sustenance,  and  in 
September,  1853,  Rev.  James  Croke,  a  missionary  of  the  arch-diocese  of  Oregon, 
visited  Jacksonville  and  celebrated  the  first  mass  in  the  house  of  Charles  Casey.  Look- 
ing forward  to  the  permanent  establishment  of  a  church — to  be  delayed,  however, 
several  years — the  reverend  father  obtained  by  deed  of  gift  from  James  Cluggage 
four  of  the  most  desirable  lots  in  the  town.  A  mission  of  several  weeks,  spent  in 
administering  to  the  spiritual  wants  of  his  people,  disclosed  a  strong,  steadfast  and 
faithful  Catholic  society,  and  a  third  mission,  in  1855,  by  Rev.  James  Cody,  of  Yreka, 
found  it  increasing  in  fidelity  and  numbers  by  virtue  of  the  salutarj^  admonitions  and 
counsel  of  the  visiting  fathers. 

The  second  brick  building  erected  in  the  town,  a  very  substantial  striu'tiire, 
still  standing  on  the  corner  of  Main  and  Oregon  streets,  was  finished  in  the  fall  of 
1854  for  Bruner  Brothers,  and  a  large  number  of  dwellings  were  added  to  the  last 
growing  town.  On  March  15, 1855,  Warren  Lodge,  No.  10,  A.  F.  &.  X.  M.,  was  organ- 
ized under  a  dispensation  from  the  Grand  Lodge  of  the  territory.  The  lodge  was  weak 
in  numbers,  but  has  grown  to  a  membership  of  eighty-five,  culled  and  sifted  from 
among  the  best  material  in  the  community.  The  first  officers  of  the  lodge  were  T. 
McF.  Pattou,  W.  M. ;  Patrick  Dunn,  S.  W.;  A.  M.  Berry,  J.  W. ;  A.  B.  Carter,  Tieas- 
urer;  S.  H.  Taylor,  Secretary;  Lewis  Graf,  S.  D.  ;  Jacob  Solomon,,!.  D.  ;  J.  S.  Burpee,^ 
tyler. 

The  serious  and  bloody  war  that  bad  Indians  and  worse  whites  precipitated  on  the 
settlements  of  Rogue  river  valley  this  year  did  not  retard  i)erniauently  the  material 
progress  and  prosperity  of  Jacksonville,  nor  did  it  diminish  its  population  in  any  per- 
ceptible degree.  Many  of  the  single  men,  "the  boys,"  in  the  old  time  vernacular,  and 
manv  also  who   were  heads  of  families,   not   caring  for  the   causes  o\'   the   cnnHicl, 


368  SOUTHERN  OREGON- 

shouldered  their  rifles  in  defense  of  their  neighbors,  abandoning  profitable  pursuits, 
many  of  tliem  to  catch  Indian  bullets,  and  by  bravery  and  determination  pushed  the 
savages  to  unconditional  j)eace.  While  they  were  in  the  field  their  places  were  filled 
by  panic-stricken  settlers,  who  flocked  to  the  towns  for  safety,  and  whose  presence  was 
rather  advantageous  than  otherwise.  The  community,  especially  the  female  portion, 
were  in  a  state  of  continual  dread,  fearing  a  night  attack  by  the  Indians,  but  the  vol- 
unteers were  keeping  the  savages  so  busy  in  the  field  that  no  extra  j^recaution  against 
surprise  was  thought  necessary.  This  apparent  neglect  aroused  much  comment  among 
the  women,  and  at  last  the  excitement  among  them  reached  fever  heat  and  forced  them 
into  a  ridiculous  position.  A  timid  old  man  named  Holman,  with  more  iinagination 
than  courage,  averred  that  he  saw  an  Indian  skulking  through  the  brush  at  the  out- 
skirts of  town,  but  among  the  men  his  story  was  generally  discredited.  Playing  on 
the  fears  of  the  weaker  sex,  the  old  man  induced  them  to  call  an  indignation  meeting 
in  the  Methodist  church,  in  order  to  arouse  the  men  to  the  necessity  of  greater  vigi- 
lance. A  chairwoman  and  secretary  were  elected,  but  before  the  meeting  proceeded 
to  business,  the  men,  to  whom  they  looked  for  protection,  were  invited  to  step  outside, 
and  informed  that  the  meeting  was  strictly  a  woman's  one.  Poor  old  Holman  was 
hustled  out  with  the  rest,  and  this  somewhat  unkind  treatment  of  the  stronger  sex 
was  received  by  them  with  cheers  and  laughter  and  not  taken  seriously  to  heart. 
Meanwhile  the  ladies  held  a  boisterous  secret  session.  Resolutions  denouncing  apathy 
and  lack  of  vigilance  were  passed,  and  the  meeting  adjourned  with  a  general  feeling 
that  a  well  merited  rebuke  had  been  administered.  That  night  some  wags,  lacking  in 
due  respect  for  the  ladies,  hoisted  a  petticoat  at  half-mast  on  the  flag  pole  in  front  of 
the  express  office.  The  exposure  of  this  piece  of  feminine  apparel  in  so  conspicuous 
a  way  was  like  flaunting  a  red  flag  in  the  face  of  a  Sijanish  bull.  It  was  not  the  red 
encasement  of  the  famous  scold,  Zantippe,  but  a  modest  looking  garment,  possibly 
intended  as  a  flag  of  truce  ;  but  the  act  was  misinterpreted  as  a  declaration  of  war,  and 
it  was  met  with  the  spirit  of  incensed  and  outraged  femininity.  Knots  of  angry  women 
gathered  and  discussed  the  situation,  and  two,  whose  ire  knew  no  bounds,  marched  to 
the  foot  of  the  pole,  armed  with  Allen  "  pepper  boxes" — a  fire-arm  most  dangerous  to 
the  holder — one  with  an  ax,  and  fully  determined  to  haul  down  the  obnoxious  garment. 
Men  gathered  round  them,  some  in  bad  temper,  and  a  word  or  blow  might  have  created 
a  bloody  riot.  One  of  the  women  demanded  that  the  men  haul  down  their  colors,  for- 
getting that  a  petticoat  is  an  orifiamme  that  always  arouses  man's  chivalry.  There 
was  no  response.  Again  the  demand  was  made,  and  a  vigorous  blow  from  her  ax  made 
the  pole  quiver.  At  this  juncture  Dr.  Brooks  stepped  forward  and  agreed  to  haul 
down  the  hateful  bit  of  apparel,  and  the  women  marched  off"  in  triumph,  firing  their 
little  guns  in  the  air,  totally  regardless  of  the  feelings  of  the  poor  men  whom  they  had 
forced  to  an  inglorious  surrender.  The  end  of  the  war  was  not  reached,  however,  for 
the  next  morning  an  immense  pine  tree  on  the  bank  of  Dairy  creek  was  adorned  with 
a  male  and  a  female  effigy,  the  latter  in  a  gorgeous  silk  dress,  and  occupying  a  sub- 
ordinate position  in  mid  air,  taken  to  be  indicative  of  man's  superiority.  This  was  a 
master  stroke  of  agressive  strategy.  There  was  no  woman  strong  enough  to  chop  the 
tree  down,  none  bold  enough  to  climb  it,  and  no  woodman  could  be  found  who  dared 
bury  his  ax  in  the  sacred  trunk.     The  storms  came,  the  winter  winds  whistled  and 


^  'i% 


S     1'  ■  'i!(f' 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  3G9 

moaned  through  the  leaves  of  the  pine,  and  still  the  effigies  swung  and  swayed  to  and 
fro,  as  evidence  that  the  weaker  sex  was  fairly  out-generaled. 

The  most  consf)icuous  mark  of  progress  this  year  [1855]  was  the  establishment  of 
the  Table  Bock  Sentinel,  by  Messrs.  T'Vault,  Taylor  and  Blakely.  True,  the  dimin- 
utive sheet  did  not  require  a  double  cylinder  lightning  press,  but  it  was  the  first  news- 
paper in  Southern  Oregon,  and  as  a  reflex  of  public  opinion  and  a  record  of  current 
events  it  soon  exerted  considerable  influence.  The  initial  number  appeared  on  Novem- 
ber 24,  1855,  and  the  few  quarts  of  type  that  spread  disjointed,  yet  most  acceptable 
news  from  the  "  States,"  and  from  the  Willamette  settlements  have  been  replaced  many 
times  by  new  fonts.  The  first  number  asserted  itself  as  "  Independent  on  all  subjects 
and  devoted  to  the  best  interests  of  Southern  Oregon,"  but  subsequent  issues  developed 
a  tendency  towards  the  dissemination  of  unqualified  democracy  and  the  bitterest  hatred 
of  any  thing  inimical  to  the  interests  of  that  communion.  Its  editor,  W.  G.  T'Yault, 
was  a  man  of  ability  and  force  of  character,  compensating  for  lack  of  culture  by  force 
of  will,  uncompromising  in  his  animosities,  but  fair  to  his  friends,  and  the  copies  of  his 
little  sheet  on  file  show  a  very  fair  record  of  the  times,  if  not  always  a  temperate  dis- 
cussion of  public  questions,  or  the  characters  of  public  men.  The  venture  of  the 
partners  was  unprofitable,  and  INIr.  T'Vault  subsequently  became  sole  owner  of  the 
paper,  until  1858  when  he  associated  W.  J.  Robinson  with  him,  and  the  name  was 
changed  to  the  Oregon  Senfinel,yvhich.  has  been  ever  since  retained.  In  October,  1859, 
the  Sentinel  passed  into  the  hands  of  O'Meara  and  Freanor,  the  latter  retiring  in  less 
than  a  year  and  the  senior  partner  abandoning  it  in  May,  18G1.  Under  their  manage- 
ment the  political  sentiments  of  the  paj)er  were  intensely  democratic,  and  at  times  so 
radical  that  citizens  loyal  to  the  Union  refused  it  patronage,  and  its  financial  affairs 
became  quite  unsatisfactory  both  to  its  proprietor  and  its  creditors.  At  this  conjuncture 
Henry  Denlinger  and  Wm.  M.  Hand,  both  practical  printers,  took  it,  Hand  retiring  in 
less  than  a  year  to  enter  the  U.  S.  volunteer  service,  leaving  Mr.  Denlinger  sole  owner. 
Mr.  D.  only  retained  it  until  July,  1864,  when  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  B.  F.  Dowell. 
During  the  management  of  Denlinger  the  Sentinel  was  an  uncompromising  Union 
paper.  Its  editor  was  Orange  Jacobs,  afterwards  chief  justice  of  Washington  territory, 
and  its  editorials  were  marked  with  dignity  and  strength,  always  sustaining  the  govern- 
ment. The  proprietorship  of  Mr.  Dowell  continued  for  more  than  fourteen  years,  during 
which  time  it  was  under  the  editorial  management  of  J.  M.  Sutton,  D.  M.  C.  Gault, 
Wm.  M.  Turner,  E.  B.  Watson,  Harrison  Kelley  and  Ed.  F.  Lewis,  who  at  various 
periods  conducted  it  and  always  in  the  interest  of  the  Republican  party.  It  seems  that 
the  Sentinel,  although  fairly  supported  and  patronized,  was  never  a  profitiible  invest- 
ment, and  in  1878,  Frank  Krause  became  its  proprietor,  afterwards  associating  Mr. 
Turner  with  him,  who  retained  his  interest  about  two  years  and  then  left  Mr.  K.  sole 
owner.  It  is  usual  to  expect  a  community  with  the  ability  to  support  one  newspaper  to 
be  able  to  support  two,  and  in  1857,  ^Messrs.  Beggs  and  Burns  started  the  Jachonnllc 
Herald  which  was  short-lived  and  its  plant  experienced  more  changes  of  ownership 
than  did  the  Sentinel.  In  1861  O'Meara  and  Pomeroy  took  the  outfit  of  the  Herald 
and  started  theSouthern  Oregon  Gazette,  the  first  number  appearing  on  August  14.  Tlie 
Gazette  was  inten.sely  democratic ;  indeed,  so  bitter  and  .shamelessly  disloyal  to  the 
government  that   in  a  few  months  it  was  refused  the  privilege  of  the  V.  S.  mails  and 


370  bOUTHERN  OREGON. 

died  a  violent  death,  mourned  by  only  a  few  to  whom  its  ultra  views  were  tasteful. 
On  the  ruins  of  the  Gazette  the  Civilian  was  built  by  D.  Wm.  Douthitt,  in  May,  1862. 
The  politics  of  this  paper  were  also  democratic,  but  of  a  milder  type  than  its  prede- 
cessor, but  sufficiently  intense  to  make  it  unpopular.  Its  proprietor  also  lacked  popu- 
larity and  discernment  as  a  journalist,  and  his  venture  died  a  quiet  death  after  a 
troubled  existence  of  a  few  months.  In  1863  T'Vault  took  possession  of  the  Civilian 
office  and  under  his  management  the  Intelligencer  was  ushered  into  the  world,  but  there 
seemed  a  cruel  fatality  in  the  type,  for  it,  too,  expired  in  less  than  a  twelvemonth. 
Then  P.  J.  Malone  threw  himself  into  the  breach  and  in  January,  1865,  the  Oregon 
Reporter  arose  from  the  cold  i-emains  of  the  Intelligencer,  and  with  the  end  of 
volume  one  Malone  retired,  having  had  no  better  success  than  those  who  preceded  him. 
Frank  E.  Stuart  succeeded  Malone  in  the  Reporter  until  1867,  wlien  Mr.  W.  W.Fidler, 
a  young  man  of  good  ability  and  honest  purpose,  was  associated  with  him  and  the  name 
was  changed  to  the  Southern  Oregon  Press.  But  a  few  mouths  passed  before  the  Press 
collapsed,  and  the  material  was  used  by  the  democratic  committee  in  the  publication  of 
the  Reveille,  but  auspicious  as  the  name  was,  it  failed  to  bring  to  the  paper  the  neces- 
sary support.  The  voluntary  contribution  system  was  a  failure  and  the  "bleeding" 
process  tried  on  candidates  for  office  was  too  depleting,  voted  a  nuisance,  and  tlie 
Reveille  soon  ceased  to  sound  the  rallying  blast.  On  its  ruins  arose  the  Democratic 
News,  in  1869,  published  and  edited  by  P.  D.  Hull  and  Chas.  Nickell.  Just  when  the 
success  of  the  News  seemed  assured  its  material  was  destroyed  in  the  disastrous  fire  of 
'72.  Its  founders,  however,  were  plucky,  both  practical  printers,  the  democracy  were 
in  power  in  the  county  and  their  patronage  warranted  an  effi^rt  to  re-establish  tlie 
paper.  Means  were  soon  raised,  a  new  outfit  procured  and  the  Democratic  Times  was 
started  by  Nickell.  Good  management  and  county  i^atronage  brought  it  prosperity 
and  it  is  likely  to  live  as  long  a  life  as  that  of  all  its  joredecessors  put  together. 

In  the  summer  of  1860  the  wagon  road  from  Waldo,  in  Josephine  county,  to  Cres- 
cent City,  Cal.,  was  opened  for  travel,  and  prices  in  Jacksonville  were  materially 
reduced,  owing  to  the  greater  facilities  for  transportation.  A  new  era  now  dawned  on 
the  thriving  community;  no  longer  the  gay  and  tinsel  trappings  and  the  broad  "sombrero" 
of  the  semi-civilized  Mexican  packer  were  seen  on  the  streets.  No  more  his  sonorous 
voice  was  heard  cursing  or  cheering  his  heavy-laden  mules  ;  he  slid  from  sight  and 
passed  away  as  something  decidedly  un-American.  It  was  the  old  giving  way  to  the 
new,  as  it  is  ever  doing  in  this  restless,  ever  changing  world  of  ours,  and  the  long  trains 
of  patient  beasts  of  burden  that  had,  for  ten  long  years,  packed  sujjplies  over  slippery 
and  tortuous  paths  were  displaced  by  the  ponderous  freight  wagons  that  in  turn  were 
to  yield  to  the  grander  achievements  of  progress  and  advancing  civilization.  The 
"greasy  packer  "  no  longer  came  whooping  into  town  with  his  independent  "devil  may 
care"  swagger,  but  either  adopted  the  more  genteel  and  luxurious  calling  of  a  team- 
ster or  was  quietly  absorbed  in  other  })ursuits  and  so  lost  to  sight.  A  semi-weekly  line 
of  stages  to  Crescent  City  was  at  once  put  on  by  Cluggage  and  Drum,  and  a  steady 
flow  of  travel  set  in  which  was  of  great  material  benefit.  The  mode  of  transportation 
proved  very  convenient.  Merchandise  that  could  not  be  packed  on  mules  was  now 
transported  with  ease,  and  an  immense  annual  saving  made  in  freights,  and  for  a  num- 
ber of  years  the  new  and  shorter  means  of  ingress  and  egress  was  quite  popular.     This 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  371 

year  an  equally  important  avenue  of  travel  was  opened.  The  California  stage  company 
had  obtained  a  contract  for  carrying  the  U.  S.  mails  from  Sacramento  to  rortland  and 
on  the  first  of  July,  put  on  a  daily  line  of  comfortable  foui'-horse  stages  between  those 
points,  passing  through  Jacksonville.  The  schedule  time  between  Sacramento  and  Port- 
land was  thirteen  days,  but  their  vehicles  were  generally  crowded  and  many  a  weary 
passenger  was  glad  to  try  the  hospitality  of  Jacksonville's  hotels,  poor  as  they  were 

The  history  of  the  Catholic  church  in  Jacksonville  is  that  of  an  active,  untiring, 
zealous  religious  organization.  Those  faithful  to  the  Roman  Catholic  belief  had  been 
visited  regularly  by  missionaries  every  year  since  the  first  visit  of  Rev.  Father  Croke, 
in  1853.  His  Grace,  Archbishop  Blanchet,  of  Oregon  City,  had  himself  come  over 
the  rough  mountains  to  administer  to  the  spiritual  wants  of  an  isolated  people,  and  in 
October,  1858,  the  occasion  of  his  first  visit,  a  contract  was  closed  with  Berry  &  Kerr 
for  the  erection  of  a  church  on  the  lot  donated  by  James  Cluggage.  In  1859,  the  edi- 
fice was  nearly  finished,  and  in  1800,  services  were  held  in  it  by  His  Grace,  the  Arch- 
bishop, who  then  visited  Jacksonville  for  the  second  and  last  time.  In  November, 
1861.  Rev.  J.  F.  Fierens  was  appointed  first  parish  j'riest  for  Southei*n  Oregon,  having 
his  residence  at  Jacksonville.  On  the  nineteenth  of  November,  18(33,  Rev.  F.  X. 
Blanchet,  nephew  of  the  archbishop,  was  appointed  second  pastor  of  St.  Joseph's 
church,  Father  Fierens  having  been  made  vicar-general  of  the  diocese.  Father 
Blanchet  still  continues  an  acceptable  ministry,  and  during  the  many  years  of  his  ser- 
vice has  largely  augmented  and  firmly  consolidated  his  congregation.  The  influelice 
of  this  religious  organization  was  soon  increased  by  the  establishment  of  St.  Mary's 
academy  by  the  Catholic  sisterhood,  and  its  conduct  has  been  without  stain  or  blemish. 
During  the  dreadful  pestilence  that  raged  in  1868-9,  the  priests  and  ladies  of  St. 
Mary's  were  brave  and  untiring  in  their  ministrations  among  the  sick  and  dying — 
Catholic  and  non-Catholic  alike — and  did  much  to  break  down  the  prejudices  of  those 
who  differed  from  them.  "St.  Joseph's"  is  now  too  small  for  its  congregation,  but  is 
still  the  most  imposing  edifice  belonging  to  the  Roman  Catholics  of  Southern  Oregon. 

The  public  school  of  Jacksonville  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  in  the  state, 
advancing  from  a  mere  infant  school  to  one  with  over  two  hundred  pupils,  in  which  all 
the  education  necessary  for. an  active  business  life  may  be  acquired  ;  but  it  has  not  been 
without  its  struggles.  In  1867,  it  was  found  that  the  school  accomodations  were 
wholly  inadequate  to  the  wants  of  the  district,  and  a  movement  was  made  to  puix-hase 
a  suitable  lot  on  which  to  erect  a  building  sufficiently  large  to  accomodate  the  fast- 
increasing  scholars.  The  movement  met  with  bitter  opposition  from  citizens  whose 
own  education  was  deficient,  but  who,  through  good  fortune,  had  taxable  property,  and 
they  stoutly  resisted  an  extraordinary  drain  on  their  purses.  The  friends  of  2)rogress 
won  and  the  beautiful  knoll  iust  east  of  town  on  which  the  Poole  residence  was  situated  w:us 
purchased.  A  tax  for.  the  building  was  next  levied,  and  the  opponents  of  the  measure  had 
become  so  demoralized  that  scarcely  a  di-ssenting  vote  was  c;ist.  For  several  years  the 
affairs  of  the  school  were  in  a  most  unsatisfactory  state.  Unfortunately,  partisan  \nA\- 
tics  divided  men  on  almost  every  issue,  and  they,  almost  imperceptibly,  crept  into 
school  matters,  and  greatly  impeded  the  efforts  of  tiiose  who  sought  to  buihl  up  a  first- 
class  school.  Time  and  experience  pointed  out  this  profitless  folly;  efficiency,  rather 
than  iiolitieal  leaning,  was  exacted   by   a  (-(tnimunity  willing  to  pay  liigli   for  teachers' 


372  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

services,  and  results  have  proved  the  wisdom  of  such  a  course.  To-day,  Jacksonville 
cheerfully  votes  whatever  tax  is  asked  by  its  school  directors,  and  boasts  a  school  second 
to  none  of  its  class  in  the  whole  state,  and  noted  for  its  wholesome  discipline  and  schol- 
arship wherever  its  fortunate  pupils  cast  their  lot.  Four  teachers  are  now  employed, 
and  the  annual  expenses  of  the  school  are  nearly  five  thousand  dollars 

Late  in  the  fall  of  1868,  a  case  of  what  was  pronounced  "chicken-pox"  by  the 
physicians,  was  discovered  among  some  half-breed  Indians  near  town.  There  was 
no  alarm  until  it  was  found  to  be  small-pox  of  the  confluent  and  most  malignant  type. 
Then,  efforts  were  made  to  repair  the  error  of  the  physicians,  but  it  was,  unfortunately, 
too  late.  The  first  patient  died,  but  the  attendants  had  mixed  promiscuously  among 
the  people  of  the  town,  and  the  seeds  of  the  terrible  disease  were  effectually  planted. 
A  death  soon  occurred  in  town,  and  the  burial,  although  taking  place  at  night,  was  con- 
ducted so  blunderingly  that  several  other  cases  appeared  in  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood. The  town  was  at  once  quarantined,  and  people  from  the  country  forbidden  to 
communicate  with  it,  in  order  to  prevent  the  S23read  of  the  disease.  School,  religious 
gatherings  and  all  other  public  assemblages  were  discontinued.  A  pest-house  was 
established  south  of  town,  to  which  nearly  all  jiatients  were  removed  and  who  received 
every  possible  attention  and  care.  Notwithstanding  the  most  rigorous  quarantine,  the 
disease  was  taken  to  the  country,  where  two  deaths  occurred,  but,  fortunately,  it  was 
confined  to  one  locality,  only.  In  spite  of  all  precautions,  the  disease  spread  rapidly> 
and  those  who  had  been  vaccinated  seemed  terror-stricken.  Ministers  fled  in  affright 
from  paths  of  duty,  but  in  the  darkest  hours  the  Catholic  priest,  who  himself  liad  experi- 
enced the  disease,  together  with  the  Catholic  sisterhood,  rendered  valuable  assistance. 
The  contagion  was  not  confined  to  any  particular  class.  The  widow  of  John  Love,  a 
lady  of  refinement  and  culture,  was  attacked  and,  with  her  youngest  child,  was  carried 
away.  Her  mother  and  the  rest  of  her  children  were  in  the  country  and  dared  not 
approach  her,  and,  when  all  was  over,  the  unsightly  corpse — all  that  remained  of  human 
beauty — was  borne  to  the  cemetery  in  a  rough  lumber-wagon,  without  a  single  follower. 
Col.  T'Vault,  who  had  filled  a  prominent  place  in  the  history  of  Southern  Oregon,  was. 
buried  at  midnight  by  the  priest  who  attended  his  dying  moments,  and  the  nea'r&st" 
friends  of  the  old  man  did  not  dare  to  join  the  silent  and  ghastly  cortege.  George 
Funk,  one  of  the  leading  citizens  of  the  town  and  a  man  of  fine  social  qualities,  died 
in  a  lonely  cabin  south  of  town,  cared  for  by  the  Odd  Fellows,  and  was  buried  in  its 
vicinity  until  time  justified  his  removal.  There  was  a  theory  prevalent  that  the  creation 
of  smoke  would  purify  the  air  and  mitigate,  or  perhaps  stay,  the  pestilence.  Large 
fires  of  pitch-pine  were  built  in  the  streets,  around  which  gathered  anxiolts  groups  by 
day  and  by  night,  waiting  to  hear  who  the  next  victim  would  be,  and  discussing  the 
situation.  This  hygienic  measure  was  fruitless;  the  clouds  of  smoke  that  clung  to  the 
hapless  town  by  day,  and  the  ruddy  glare  that  lit  up  its  deserted  streets  by  night,  only 
added  gloom  and  brought  neither  hope  nor  relief.  For  over  two  months  this  state  of 
things  existed,  and  gradually  the  disease  wore  out  the  material  that  was  most  suscepti- 
ble of  attack,  and  finally  disappeared.  Some  of  the  patients  recovered,  notably  those 
who  had  been  vaccinated;  but  the  number  of  deaths  exceeded  forty,  which,  in  a  small 
community,  left  a  perceptible  vacuum. 


..   -„^»;:< 


m 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  373 

111  the  eusuing  summer  (18G9)  the  town  liad  a  novel  expericnee.  One  afternoon 
in  Julj^  a  cloud,  not  much  larger  than  a  man's  hand,  hung  ahove  the  western  horizon. 
It  attracted  little  notice,  but  exj^anded  gradually  until  it  was  apparent  that  some  extra- 
ordinary disturbance  was  imminent.  Suddenly  the  cloud  burst,  about  a  mile  and 
a-half  west  of  town,  and  an  immense  volume  of  water  was  precij^itated  into  Jackson 
and  Daisy  creeks.  In  a  few  moments,  those  streams,  comparatively  dry  at  that  season, 
were  swollen  into  dangerous  and  imj^assable  torrents.  Mining  apparatus  and  stumps 
were  torn  up  and  swept  down  stream  like  reeds,  cattle  were  borne  down  on  the  resist- 
less flood,  and  the  streets  of  the  town  could  have  floated  a  canoe.  Previous  to  the  cloud- 
burst, the  air  had  been  unusually  quiet,  but  the  rush  of  air  to  fill  up  the  vacuum 
amounted  to  a  genuine  hurricane.  Fortunately,  its  greatest  force  was  spent  a  short 
distance  south  of  town,  where  the  standing  pines  were  mown  off  about  thirty  feet  above 
the  ground  and  left  standing  like  gigantic  stubble — a  memento  of  the  awful  force  of 
the  elements.  An  immense  amount  of  drift  from  the  mines  was  washed  down  Jackson 
creek,  destroying  and  marring  several  comfortable  homes,  and  leaving  traces  of  devas- 
tation that  may  last  for  a  generation  to  come.  Strangely  enough,  the  storm  and  its 
effects  were  confined  within  a  narrow  limit  of  little  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width, 
and  were  scarcely  felt  beyond  the  corporation.  Jacksonville  survived  pestilence  and 
flood,  but  another  calamity  was  in  store  for  it.  In  the  spring  of  1873,  a  fire  broke 
out  in  the  Union  hotel,  owned  by  Louis  Home,  and  within  an  hour  seventy-five  thou- 
sand dollars  worth  of  property  was  destroyed.  The  recuperative  power  of  Jacksonville 
enterprise  soon  rebuilt  the  vacant  ground  with  more  sightly  buildings,  and  what  was  a 
.severe  private  loss  was  a  public  gain.  The  succeeding  year  another  disastrous  confla- 
gration took  place  on  the  main  business  block  and  extended  to  the  El  Dorado  corner, 
wiping  out  many  of  the  ancient  landmarks.  Again,- the  energy  of  Jacksonville's  citi- 
zens repaired  the  losses,  and  on  the  El  Dorado  corner  was  reared  a  handsome  brick 
structure  by  the  Masonic  fraternity,  and  again  private  purses  were  made  to  suffer  for 
the  benefit  of  the  town.  In  1881,  the  Presbyterians  erected  a  very  handsome  edifice 
for  worship  at  a  cost  of  nearly  '|4,000,  the  heaviest  contributors  being  C.  C.  Beekman 
and  William  Hoffman.  The  church  is  the  most  ornate  and  handsome  in  Southern 
Oregon,  with  stained-glass  windows,  and  a  seating  capacity  of  two  hundred  and  fifty — 
a  credit  to  those  who  so  generously  gave  towards  its  erection.  But  the  crowning  glory  of 
Jacksonville  is  its  magnificent  court  house,  erected  in  1883-4,  at  a  cost  of  about 
$32,000,  and  after  a  strenuous  opposition  from  rival  i)oints  and  from  citizens.  It  is  the 
cheapest  building  ever  erected  in  Oregon,  and  "the  bill  of  costs,"  never  increased  by  a 
single  dollar  from  the  amount  stipulated  in  the  contract,  has  disappointed  the  most  bit- 
ter opponents  of  the  building,  who  predicted  that  it  would  ultimately  foot  up  a  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  Jacksonville  may  grow  no  larger,  at  least  until  poi)ulation  becomes 
more  congested  in  the  rich  valley  in  which  it  is  situated,  but  it  will  long  remain  one  of 
most  interesting  towns  of  Southern  Oregon.  It  is  a  heritage  from  the  adventurous  men 
who  carved  out  homes  far  beyond  the  utmost  limits  of  civilized  life ;  a  town  that  has 
passed  into  the  highest  state  of  civilization,  having  no  irai)ress  of  the  pioneers  who 
founded  it,  save  their  chivalry  and  general  unselfishness.  Peopled  largely  by  citizens 
imbued  with  broad  and  liljeral  views,  it  has  always  deservedly  been  recognized  as 
one  of  the  most  hospitable  towns  in  Oregon,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  its  charactci-  in  tliis 
latter  respect  may  never  change. 


CHAPTER    XLIV. 


OTHER    IMPORTANT    POINTS. 

PhcEiix-Its   Rise  and   Fortunss-Medford -Central   Point -Little   Butte-Eagle   Point— Gold    Hill— Big-   Bar- 
Rock   Point— Grant's   Pass. 

Phcenix. — This  village,  nicknamed  Gasburg,  was  settled  very  early  in  the  history 
of  the  Eogue  river  country.  Samuel  Culver,  in  the  fall  of  1851 — he  being  one  of  the 
very  first  pioneers — took  uj)  a  donation  claim  where  the  town  now  stands,  and  has  ever 
since  continued  to  occupy  it.  In  the  following  summer  his  brother  Hiram  came, 
bringing  the  families  of  both,  and  took  up  a  claim  adjoining  Samuel's,  and  like  the 
other,  of  640  acres  of  land.  In  the  same  year  (1852)  came  Samuel  D.  Van  Dyke, 
Matthew  Little,  E.  E.  Gore  and  O.  D.  Hoxie,  and  settled  near  by.  In  1853  the  settle- 
ment was  augmented  by  James  Sterling,  John  and  H.  M.  Coleman,  George  T.  Viuing, 
Gridley,  C.  S.  Sergeant,  James  P.  Burns,  W.  Lynch,  Milton  Lindley,  Mathes,  Harry 
and  Harvey  Oatman  and  Henry  Church.  In  1854  the  town  of  Pha?nix  was  laid  out 
on  the  land  of  Mr.  Samuel  Culver.  In  1855  S.  M.  Wait  built  the  large  flouring  mill 
on  land  donated  by  Mr.  Culver.  Subsequently  Mr.  Wait  went  to  Washington  terri- 
tory and  founded  the  town  of  Waitsburg,  turning  over  his  Phoenix  mill  property  to  E. 
D.  Foudray,  who  im^^roved  it  Very  much,  building  a  new  structure  and  digging  a 
race.  In  1859  this  mill  was  sold  in  turn  to  William  Hess;  in  1862  to  James  T.  Glenn; 
in  1864  to  E.  D.  Foudray ;  iu  1871  to  G.  W.  Wimer  ;  iu  1876  to  the  Grangers ;  in 
1878  to  P.  W.  Olwell,  who  paid  $10,000  therefor,  and  who  still  owns  and  operates  it. 
Harvey  Oatman  built  the  first  hotel  in  Phoenix,  and  Henry  Church  and  Harrison  B. 
Oatman  were  the  first  merchants,  doing  business  under  the  name  of  Church  &  Oatman. 
Culver  &  Davenport,  and  Wait  &  McManus  were  also  engaged  in  mercantile 
affairs  in  early  years.  Judge  Orange  Jacobs,  of  subsequent  celebrity,  was  a  teacher  of 
youth  for  the  early  settlers  of  Phoenix,  and  also  practiced  his  profession  of  the  law  for 
a  time  in  the  same  locality.  In  1858  Phoenix  was  spoken  of  as  improving  rapidly. 
The  water  power  of  the  town  was  considered  of  great  advantage,  and  the  place  was  said 
to  bid  fair  to  become  a  rival  to  Jacksonville.  In  February,  1861,  the  placer  diggings 
were  discovered  near  town,  the  gravel  extending  a  considerable  distance  along  the  base 
of  the  hills.  These  diggings  have  realized  a  very  considerable  amount  of  money. 
From  the  Coleman  and  Reams  mines  about  $170,000  is  reported  as  the  product,  and 
some  gold  is  yet  being  extracted.  In  1864  Phoenix  had  reached  its  climacteric,  and  all 
was  prosperity.  The  town  was  the  home  of  lawyers,  doctors,  artisans  and  merchants. 
Business  was  very  brisk,  and  the  mines  were  producing  well.  But  this  era  of  pros- 
perity had  an  end  sometime  along  in  the  last  of  the  sixties ;  and  in  1874  a  stray 
traveler  wrote  of  the  place:  "  Decay,  desolation,  death  are  inscribed  on  her  walls; 
dusty  in  summer  and  muddy  in  winter,  it  is  the  abode  of  hard  times."     But  the  dys- 


JACKSON  COIjNTY.  375 

peptical  fellow  clieered  uj)  somewhat,  and  going  into  details,  added:  "  It  contains  two 
gristmills,  a  store,  tavern,  school,  and  a  Good  Templars'  organization.  The  peojile  are 
industrions,  temperate,  and  always  ready  for  a  dance  or  a  religious  revival."  Again 
the  fortunes  of  Phoenix  were  to  see  a  change,  and  the  town,  like  its  namesake,  rising 
from  its  ashes,  was  to  far  exceed  its  former  prosperity.  The  advent  of  the  railroad 
had  a  most  salutary  effect  upon  it,  and  j^robably  a  lasting  one.  The  business  and 
manufacturing  houses  of  the  jilace  at  present  are  four  dry-goods  stores,  one  hardware 
store,  three  blacksmith  shops,  a  shoe  shop,  three  hotels  and  eating  houses,  two  flouring 
mills,  one  livery  stable  and  four  saloons.  There  is  also  a  church,  begun  by  the  Meth- 
odists and  Presbyterians  jointly,  in  1862,  but  afterwards  owned  exclusively  by  the 
latter.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  thought  to  be  300.  The  chief  points  of  interest 
about  Phoenix  are  the  grave  (now  empty)  of  Captain  Stewart,  U.  S.  A.,  the  "  Forty- 
nine  "  mines,  Camp  Baker,  and  S.  Culver's  residence.  The  curious  visitor  would  do 
well  to  inspect  the  latter  remarkable  building,  a  relic  as  it  is  of  times  when  Indians' 
assaults  had  to  be  provided  against.  Camp  Baker's  site  (used  in  the  time  of  the 
rebellion  for  garrison  purposes)  is  now  grown  uj?  with  underbrush,  and  its  two  dozen 
log  buildings  have  rotted  and  fallen  down. 

Medfoed,  the  newest  town  in  Southern  Oregon,  is  an  irajiortant  station  of  the 
railway,  and  is  regarded  as  likely  to  become  a  very  imj^ortant  shipping  point.  Its 
position  is  in  the  center  of  Bear  creek  valley,  about  four  miles  east  of  Jacksonville, 
and  about  midway  between  Phoenix  and  Central  Point.  It  is  the  shipping  point  for 
a  large  section,  including  Jacksonville,  a  portion  of  the  Applegate  country,  and  a  good 
part  of  the  surrounding  valley.  In  the  winter  of  1883-4  about  forty  wooden  build- 
ings were  put  uj),  and  the  foundations  of  a  brick  building  of  considerable  size  were 
laid.  A  livery  stable,  hotel,  several  stores  and  offices  of  a  few  professional  men  con- 
stitute a  portion  of  the  town. 

Central  Point  also  is  situated  upon  Bear  creek,  and  is  in  the  northeastern 
corner  of  township  37  south,  i-ange  2  west.  Its  position  is  very  nearly  in  the  center 
of  the  inhabited  part  of  Jackson  county,  from  whence  its  citizens  argue  its  claims  for 
the  county  seat.  Its  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  of  its  central  location.  It  is  six 
miles  from  Jacksonville  in  a  direct  line,  and  is  a  station  of  the  Oregon  and  California 
railway.  The  laud  upon  which  the  little  village  stands  was  entered  by  the  Magruder 
brothers  in  1868,  at  which  time  they  set  up  a  store  of  general  merchandise,  and  in 
1872  a  post  office  was  established  here,  bearing  the  name  of  the  place.  Central  Point 
now  consists  of  s  even  dwellings,  a  school  house,  store,  blacksmith  shop,  wagon  shop, 
hotel,  post  office,  feed  stable,  and  saloon.  Some  of  the  very  earliest  pioneers  located 
near  this  i^lace,  among  them  Judge  Skinner,  Mr.  Hopwood,  Chesley  Gray,  and  others. 
The  most  extensive  farming  operations  known  in  the  valley  have  been  carried  on 
near  by.  North  and  northeast  of  Central  Point  lies  a  section  of  country  which  com- 
prises the  "  Big  Sticky,"  Little  Butte,  Antelope,  and  Dry  creek  valleys,  and  a  portion 
of  the  valley  of  Eogue  river.  It  is  an  agricultural  section  exclusively,  excepting  as 
to  the  upper  portions  of  the  valleys,  which  are  devoted  to  grazing.  The  population  is 
scattering;  two  small  villages  with  jiost  offices,  have  only  l)een  built  up.  Mining  there 
is  none,  and  lumbering  is  carried  on  but  to  a  limited  extent.  The  first  named  section, 
called  Big  Stickv  or  "the  desert,"  lies  on  the  eastern  side  of  I'ear  creek,  beginning  a 


376  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

short  distance  below  Phoenix,  and  continuing  to  Rogue  rivei-.  Its  length  is  perhaps 
twelve  miles,  average  breadth,  three.  Its  characteristics  are  a  soil  of  adobe,  clay  of 
wonderfully  tenacious  nature.  It  is  difficult  of  tillage,  but  is  productive  of  grain,  and 
very  durable  in  fertility.  In  early  years  some  noted  pioneers  settled  upon  this  tract, 
among  them  Alexander  French,  Asa  Parker,  John  E.  and  Charles  Seyforth,  John  and 
Nicholas  Cook,  and  the  unfortunate  Major  James  Lupton.  At  a  later  period  Messrs. 
French  and  Parker  moved  to  the  Atlantic  states,  John  Cook  died  on  this  coast  a  few 
years  since,  and  N.  Cook  is  now  a  merchant  at  Willow  Sjirings,  Jackson  county. 
Lupton's  place  was  that  now  owned  by  Martin  Peterson,  and  called  Mound  Ranch,  on 
account  of  the  isolated  hill  standing  thereupon. 

Eagle  Point,  located  on  Little  Butte  creek,  about  three  miles  from  Rogue  river, 
is  a  small  village,  at  present  containing  two  hotels,  two  stores,  two  blacksmith  shops, 
a  flour  mill,  boot  and  shoe  shop,  carpenter  shop,  church,  school  house,  saloon,  and  jiost 
office.  The  place  was  named  by  John  Mathews,  in  honor  of  the  national  bird.  The 
post  office  was  established  in  1872,  Andrew  McNeil  being  postmaster.  This  gentleman 
retained  the  position  until  1877,  when  it  devolved  upon  F.  B.  Inlow,  who  yet  holds  it. 
The  site  of  Eagle  Point  was  taken  up  in  1853,  by  Abram  Robinson,  George  Ludlow, 
and  Freeman  Smith.  Mr.  Robinson  is  now  in  Boise,  Idaho,  Mr.  Ludlow  died  in  Iowa, 
several  years  since,  and  Mr.  Smith  returned  to  the  east.  These  individuals  took  up 
800  acres  as  joint  property,  for  the  purpose  of  gardening  and  raising  live  stock  for  the 
market  of  Jacksonville,  sixteen  miles  distant.  Smith  sold  to  James  J.  Fryer,  in 
August,  1853.  On  the  breaking  out  of  the  Indian  war  the  partners  had  to  take  refuge 
elsewhere,  and  upon  the  conclusion  of  hostilities  only  Mr.  Fryer  returned  to  the  place. 
That  gentleman,  with  A.  J.  Daley,  E.  Emory  and  Peter  Simon,  are  now  the  proprietors 
of  Eagle  Point.  John  Mathews  settled  near  by,  in  1854,  and  in  the  same  year  Fred- 
erick Westgate,  N.  A.  Young  and  Little,  opened  a  trading  jwst  a  mile  below  town, 
and  conducted  it  for  several  years.  T.  Cameron  built  the  first  dwelling  in  Eagle  Point 
in  the  fall  of  1853,  a  small  log  house  which  still  stands.  The  Eagle  Point  flour  mill 
was  built  in  1872,  by  John  Daley  and  E.  Emory.  It  contains  two  run  of  buhr-stones, 
capacity  forty  barrels  of  flour  per  day ;  motive  power  a  turbine  wheel,  with  a  fall  of 
seventeen  feet.     A.  J.  Daley  now  owns  the  mill. 

Little  Butte  Creek  was  so  named  at  a  very  early  day  because  the  first  miners 
and  packers  supposed  the  stream  rose  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Pitt,  the  snowy  butte. 
They  were  mistaken,  inasmuch  as  the  head  of  the  stream  is  far  south  of  that  mountain. 
It  flows  a  generally  northwest  course,  and  empties  into  Rogue  river  nearly  opposite 
Upper  Table  Rock.  The  stream  is  easily  fordable  most  of  the  year,  has  a  bed  ten  or 
fifteen  yards  wide,  and  furnishes  fine  water  power.  Its  valley  is  quite  an  agricultural 
region,  has  a  fertile  soil  and  is  well  watered.  It  contains  one  other  village  besides 
Eagle  Point,  namely,  Brownsborough,  seven  or  eight  miles  south  of  east,  and  lying  in 
the  northern  part  of  township  36,  range  1  east.  This  place  was  named  in  honor  of 
H.  R.  Brown,  who  came  in  1853,  and  settled  permanently,  being  the  first  in  that  vicin- 
ity. There  is  a  post  office  at  Brownsborough,  a  store  (owned  now  by  Mr.  Brown,  but 
built  by  Bilger  brothers),  and  five  dwellings.  In  1855  or  earlier,  John  McDaniel  and 
sons  built  a  saw  mill  on  Little  Butte  creek,  and  sawed  the  lumber  of  which  the  most 
of  Jacksonville  was  constructed.     In  1856  or  1857  the  mill  was  removed  to  give  place 


30 
m 
en 


> 
en 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  377 

to  a  grist  mill.  Pleasant  Stone  and  Hathaway  are  supposed  to  have  been  the  first 
settlers  on  Little  Butte,  as  they  arrived  there  in  the  stormy  winter  of  1852-3.  Soon 
after  came  Tobias  Linkwiler,  Levi  Tinkham,  N.  A.  Young,  Judge  Silas  J.  Day,  and 
Ed.  Day,  Robert  Cameron,  Champion  Collier,  William  Collier,  John  Marshall,  and 
some  few  previously  mentioned.  By  the  time  of  the  last  Indian  war  the  settlement 
had  become  largely  increased,  so  much  so  that  quite  a  large  military  company — 
Alcorn's — was  recruited  among  the  hardy  settlers  of  Butte.  At  that  time  all  the  people 
were  "forted  up."  Above  Brownsborough,  on  the  north  fork  of  the  creek  is  a  some- 
what remarkable  soda  spring,  which  was  discovered  by  John  Mathews  in  1865.  Taking 
a  land  claim  there^  Mr.  Mathews  sold  to  James  T.  Glenn.  Mr.  Simon  McCallister  now 
owns  the  location.  The  water  is  said  to  possess  wonderful  healing  properties,  and  the 
place  is  regarded  as  a  good  site  for  a  sanitarium,  a  Saratoga,  as  it  were,  for  the  invalids 
of  the  coast.  The  north  and  south  forks.  Lick,  Salt,  Osborne,  Dead  Indian,  Antelope, 
and  Dry  creeks  are  tributaries  of  Little  Butte,  and  are  of  some  importance  by  reason 
of  the  farming  and  timber  land  upon  their  banks,  and  the  grazing  to  be  had.  The 
,  land  is  generally  mountainous,  the  soil  rather  poor,  excepting  smill  tracts  of  bottom 
land.  The  timber  is  mainly  oak,  fir,  pine,  yew,  madrone  and  cedar,  and  undergrowth 
of  hazel,  juniper,  dogwood,  greasewood  and  service  berry  abounds. 

AViLLow  Springs,  a  point  of  some  celebrity,  was  one  of  the  very  first  settlements 
made  in  Jackson  county.  N.  C.  Dean  settled  here  in  1851,  taking  up  a  donation 
claim,  as  previously  stated.  A  little  later  John  Kennedy  joined  Mr.  Dean,  and  the 
two  kept  for  several  years  a  wayside  hostelry.  Kennedy  was  finally  killed  by  the 
Indians  at  Hungry  Hill,  and  his  partner,  too,  has  gone  the  way  of  all  flesh.  Near  the 
springs  pay  dirt  was  struck  in  1852,  and  successfully  worked  for  many  years,  and,  in 
fact,  to  the  present  date.  At  this  place  Mr.  Nicholas  Cook  has  a  store  of  general  mer- 
chandise, and  keeps  the  post-office.  Not  far  away  is  Lane's  creek,  a  mining  locality 
from  which  considerable  gold  has  been  taken,  but  chiefly  memorable  for  a  nuirder 
committed  upon  its  banks.  The  victim  was  an  old  man  naned  Lane,  from  whum  the 
stream  derives  its  name. 

Kane's  Creek,  called  also  T'Yault's  creek,  was  named  for  Dr.  Kane,  who  settled 
near  by,  in  1853.  The  other  name  is  that  of  the  once  celebrated  colonel  and  editor, 
T'A'ault,  who  also  abode  in  the  vicinity,  being  the  first  to  arrive.  Dr.  G.  H.  Ambrose, 
Indian  agent,  came  next  after  the  colonel,  and  John  Swiuden,  now  living  in  the 
vicinity,  came  in  July,  1853,  being  the  oldest  resident  of  the  locality.  The  stream  is 
small,  but  is  of  some  importance  from  its  placer  diggings,  which,  like  those  of  all  the 
neighborhood,  cannot  be  made  profitable  because  of  lack  of  water.  The  farming  lands 
upon  the  creek  are  contracted  in  area,  whereby  agricultural  operations  are  slight. 

The  course  of  Rogue  river,  previously  nearly  south,  turns  sharply  to  the  west  on 
reaching  Upper  Table  Rock  and  the  mouth  of  Little  Butte  creek.  It  pursue.^  this 
direction  for  the  remainder  of  its  course  through  Jackson  county,  and  as  fiir  as  the 
confluence  of  the  Applegate,  in  Josephine  county.  From  the  Upper  Table  Rock  the 
river  flows  by  a  constant  succession  of  localities  made  memorable  by  important  occur- 
rences in  the  past.  Here  are  the  Table  Rocks,  Bybee's  (before  styled  Hailey's)  ferry, 
Fort  Lane,  Big  Bar— famed  for  having  been  so  early  a  mining  locality— Gold  Hill, 
Foot's  creek,  the  Dardanelles,  Bloody  Run,  Evans'  creek,  Evans'  ferry,  Jewitt's  ferry. 


378  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

Vanuoy's  ferry,  Long's  feri-y,  and  uumerous  other  celebrated  historical  localities.  In 
the  four  townships  through  which  the  river  flows  in  its  course  from  UpjJer  Table  Rock 
to  the  border  of  Josejihine  county,  have  occurred  a  very  great  proportion  of  the  histor- 
ical incidents  of  Southern  Oregon.  In  the  lapse  of  a  third  of  a  century,  nearly  every 
square  mile  of  its  surface  has  become  historical  ground.  Possibly  no  similar  area  in 
the  United  States  has  ever  been  the  scene  of  so  many  and  such  varied  occurrences,  and 
certainly  there  is  not  on  the  Pacific  coast  a  tract  which,  in  that  respect,  bears  an  equal 
comjDarison. 

About  the  Table  Rocks  lived  the  powerful  and  warlike  Rogue  River  tribe 
of  Indians.  Their  war  chief's  name  yet  endures  in  the  familiar  designation  of  Sam's 
valley.  In  the  beautiful  little  vale  behind  the  Table  Rocks,  he  and  his  people  dwelt ; 
and  in  that  neighborhood  they  waged  battle  against  the  whites.  They  were  defeated 
by  Major  Kearney  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  some  miles  above  the  rocks ;  they 
fought  the  bravest  men  of  Jacksonville  at  their  rancheria  further  down  the  river ;  they 
we]-e  beaten  by  Lane  in  1853;  Fort  Lane  was  built  to  awe  and  protect  them  in  the  fol- 
lowing year,  this  fortification  standing  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  just  east  from 
Gold  Hill,  and  not  far  below  the  mouth  of  Bear  creek.  Here  the  military  remained 
until  the  summer  of  1856,  in  which  year  the  band  of  Chief  Sara  left  their  old  home, 
escorted  by  100  troops,  and  traveled  into  the,  to  them,  unknown  country  west  of  the 
Willamette,  whence  the  most  of  them  have,  ere  this,  gone  over  to  the  silent  majority. 
A  few  straying  members  of  the  band  came  back  for  a  visit  at  a  later  date,  as  the  people 
of  Sam's  and  neighboring  valleys  still  remember.  But  their  mission  was  peaceful  ; 
and  soon  the  country  knew  them  no  more  forever. 

Gold  Hill  is  most  peculiar  in  its  character.  From  it  was  taken,  as  already 
explained,  a  remarkable  deposit  of  gold.  The  hill,  so-called,  is  perhaps  800  feet  high, 
is  about  twelve  miles  from  Jacksonville  and  borders  the  river,  which  forms  two  sides  of 
a  ti'iangle,  the  hill  standing  in  the  center.  There  are  many  indications  that  Gold  Hill 
was  an  enormous  slide  which  broke  off  from  the  mountains  to  the  west  and  fell  in  the 
valley  below.  The  valley  separating  the  two  elevations  is  narrow,  and  through  it  flows 
the  river,  which  is  compelled  to  make  a  sharp  turn  because  of  the  hill  interposed  in  its 
course.  Some  persons  have  concluded  from  an  examination  of  the  region  about  Gold 
Hill  that  the  supj^osed  slide  caused  a  great  lake  above  by  damming  up  the  waters  and 
causing  them  to  overflow  the  Bear  creek  and  connected  valleys,  whereby  the  various 
gravels  and  sedimentary  rocks  which  underlie  so  large  a  part  of  the  region  were  formed. 
They  instance  the  beach  marks  on  Table  Rock,  the  sand  cliffs  at  the  head  and  along 
the  side  of  the  valley,  and  the  worn  and  drifted  appearance  of  gravel  and  boulders  on 
"Big  Sticky."  Whatever  may  have  been  its  origin,  it  is  a  very  singular  eminence  and 
contains  curious  mineral  substances  worthy  of  examination  by  scientific  men.  Iron  ore 
is  found  there  in  masses,  and  a  company  was  formed  to  work  the  ore,  but  nothing  came 
of  it.  About  the  base  of  Gold  Hill  lies  the  tract  of  the  great  railway  line  which  is  to 
connect  California  with  the  Pacific  Northwest.  Along  the  steep  granite  sides  of  the 
hill  the  engineers  laboured  for  months,  blasting  and  excavating  with  tireless  will  the 
adamant  bulwarks  opposing  them.  The  passage  of  Rogue  river  and  the  cuts  about 
Gold  Hill  are  considered  vei'y  remarkable  works  of  engineering  skill  and  perseverence 
and  well  repay  an  examination. 


JACKSON  COUNTY.  979 

At  Big  Bar,  ju«t  by  Gold  Hill,  much  mining  was  done  in  the  early  years.  At 
one  time  in  1852  a  rush  of  miners  took  place  to  the  bar,  where  not  less  than  200  men 
were  prospecting.  Generally  speaking  their  work  was  unprofitable.  On  several  occa- 
sions companies  have  been  formed  and  much  money  expended  in  endeavoring  to  dam 
the  river  and  turn  its  waters  across  the  bar,  whereby  its  channel  may  be  left  dry  and 
the  sands  worked ;  but  thus  far  without  success.  It  was  considered  a  great  mining 
enterprise  when,  in  the  summer  of  1860,  a  dam  was  thrown  across  the  river,  but  the 
scheme  proved  abortive,  little  gold  being  found  in  the  gravel.  In  1875  the  Big  Bar 
and  Rogue  River  Mining  Company,  of  Portland,  incorporated  with  a  capital  of  ■'|20,000, 
for  the  purpose  of  "  turning  the  river  and  working  the  bar,  and  improving  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  Rogue  river."     This  scheme  was  likewise  unsuccessful. 

The  Dardanelles,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Gold  Hill,  is  at  present  known  as  the 
T'Vault  place.  Here  dwelt  the  colonel  and  here  were  gathered  the  white  settlers 
to  seek  protection  from  the  Indians  in  time  of  war.  Near  by  was  Doctor  G.  H. 
Ambrose's  donation  claim.  In  1860,  the  Dardanelles  sprang  into  new  life  and  activity 
through  the  establishment  of  Klippel,  McLaughlin  and  Williams'  steam  quartz  mill  to 
reduce  the  rock  from  the  newly  discovered  Gold  Hill  mine.  A  hotel,  the  Adams  House, 
was  put  up  and  other  improvements  were  inaugurated.  But  soon  the  "  boom  "  ceased, 
the  mine  was  exhausted,  and  the  Dardanelles  sunk  into  its  previous  obscurity. 

Foot's  Creek  was  prospected  in  early  times  by  O.  G.  Foot,  a  miner,  Avho  dis- 
covered rich  gravel  in  its  bed.  From  him  the  stream  derived  its  name.  It  became 
celebrated  as  a  mining  region  in  1852,  and  ever  since  has  yielded  considerably.  Lack 
of  water  has  prevented  the  larger  bodies  of  gravel  from  being  worked,  and  it  is  judged 
that  the  introduction  of  large  hydraulic  streams  would  pay  very  largely  and  contin- 
uously. The  claims  owned  by  G.  W.  Lance  and  S.  Duffy  are  the  most  extensive. 
Near  the  Birdsey  place,  which  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  stood  the  army  ho.s- 
pital  for  the  sick  and  wounded  soldiers  of  the  war  of  1855-6.  The  building  used  was 
a  double  house  of  hewed  logs,  which  still  stands  and  is  in  use  as  a  stable.  Afterwards 
the  medical  department  moved  to  Jacksonville. 

Rock  Poixt  stands  upon  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  in  township  'SO,  range  8 
west.  It  is  characterized  by  an  excellent  location,  being  upon  the  railroad,  of  which 
it  is  an  important  station,  and  in  the  geographical  center  of  the  two  counties  of  Jack- 
son and  Josephine.  Its  name,  like  those  of  many  other  localities,  is  self-explanatory, 
and  was  given,  probably  in  1852,  by  packers  or  miners.  The  post-office  was  estab- 
lished in  in  1857  or  1858,  with  J.  B.  White  as  postmaster,  the  same  being  the  original 
town  proprietor.  L.  J.  White  built  the  first  hotel,  in  1864,  and  two  years  previously 
Abram  Schulz  had  put  up  a  blacksmith  shop.  Haymond  ct  White  dealt  in  merchan- 
dise, beginning  in  1868,  and  the  latter  partner  sold  to  the  Magruder  brother^,  II.  H. 
and  Constantine,  in  1874,  so  remaining  until  now.  Rock  Point  now  contains  a  store, 
hotel,  livery  stable,  blacksmith  shop,  saloon,  post-office,  school  house  and  telegraph 
office.  Above  the  town  a  short  distance  is  the  railroad  bridge  across  Rogue  river,  a 
very  considerable  structure  over  1,000  feet  long,  substantial  and  durable,  one  of  the 
succession  of  extensive  engineering  works  by  wliicli  the  iron  causeway  attains  the 
vallev. 


380  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

WooDViLLE,  through  which  passes  the  railway,  at  present  of  but  little  note,  is  located 
at  the  mouth  of  Evans'  creek,  which  terminates  here.  The  creek  is  a  considerable 
stream,  upon  whose  banks  for  many  years  miners  have  labored,  and  the  horny-handed 
agriculturist  is  now  settling.  The  stream  was  named  for  Davis  Evans,  nicknamed 
Coyote,  proprietor  of  the  well-known  ferry.  Prospected  for  gold  before  the  war  of  1853, 
it  was  then  abandoned  by  whites  from  fear  of  the  Indians,  and  on  the  final  settlement 
of  these  difficulties  in  1856,  the  Chinese,  then  coming  in  large  numbers,  took  possession 
of  the  ground,  and  mined  successfully.  They  were  driven  out  by  whites  when  their 
good  fortune  became  known,  and  the  latter  took  the  claims  and  made  good  wages. 
Various  other  mineral  substances  of  value  are  found  upon  this  stream.  Quicksilver 
was  mined  in  1874,  and  quite  an  excitement  followed.  Many  locations  were  made  and 
an  assay  office  was  established  in  Woodville.  A  salt  spring  exists  there,  and  Fuller 
&  Company  erected  apparatus,  in  1864,  to  evaporate  the  water  and  to  purify  the  con- 
tained salt.  One  of  the  affluents  of  Evans'  creek,  called  Pleasant  creek  from  the  name 
of  Pleasant  Armstrong,  who  was  killed  in  Lane's  battle  with  the  Indians  on  a  tributary 
of  Evans'  creek,  in  August,  1853,  afforded  pay-dirt  to  quite  a  number  of  miners  about 
the  year  1860.  Sardine  creek  enters  the  Rogue  river  on  the  north  side,  just  above 
Rock  Point,  and  it,  too,  has  a  history  as  a  mining  region.  Its  mines  were  discovered  in 
1853  by  a  prospector  living  with  A.  J.  Kane,  near  the  Dardanelles.  The  story  of  its 
riches  went  forth,  and  within  a  few  days  a  large  number  of  miners  were  on  the  ground. 
The  peculiar  name,  says  Mr.  Kane,  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  sardines  formed  a  pai-t 
of  the  provisions  of  the  first  arrivals.  The  banks  of  the  stream  were  worked  extensively, 
afterward,  by  whites  and  Chinese,  between  whom  the  usual  one-sided  antagonism  existed. 

Grant's  Pass. — The  westernmost  village  of  Jackson  county,  has  long  been  known 
as  Grant's  Pass.  At  first,  known  only  as  a  station  of  the  O.  &  C.  stage  company 
where  the  horses  were  changed,  and  tired  passengers  consoled  themselves  with  an 
excellent  meal,  the  place  took  on  a  new  phase  with  the  advent  of  the  railway,  and 
became  very  quickly  the  liveliest  town  of  its  size  in  Oregon.  Speculative  men  had 
lots  surveyed  aud  forced  them  on  the  market,  and  houses  went  up  thereon  with  magical 
quickness.  Grant's  Pass  is  a  typical  railway  town,  its  interests  centering  in  the 
arrival  and  departure  of  trains,  the  extension  of  the  road,  and  the  patronage  of  the 
train-men,  more  than  aught  else.  It  possesses  hotels,  saloons,  shops  of  various  sorts, 
and  j5erhaps  two  scores  of  dwelling  houses  where,  six  months  since,  hardly  a  building 
was  in  sight.  But  its  principal  building  is  the  railway  depot,  a  structure  similar  in 
design  and  construction  to  those  adopted  by  the  0.  &  C.  R.  R.  Company  for  all  its 
stations,  and  built  with  the  highest  regard  to  convenience  and  beauty.  Consequently, 
the  elegant  depots  of  the  various  railway  stations  in  Southern  Oregon,  are  thus  far  the 
architectural  culmination  of  the  villages  in  which  they  are  located.  At  Grant's  Pass  the 
construction  and  repair  shops  of  the  railway  are  to  be  permantly  situated. 

Tallent  is  the  modern  name  of  the  locality  formerly  called  Wagner  creek,  from 
Wagner,  the  earliest  settler.  It  is  a  station  of  the  Oregon  and  California  railway,  and 
a  place  of  some  importance  in  the  history  of  Jackson  county,  inasmuch  as  near  by  was 
formed  in  very  early  times  a  well  known  settlement.  In  the  time  of  the  Indian  war  of 
1853  the  Wagner  house  was  a  resort  of  the  surrounding  settlers  who  came  there  for 
protection  from  the  savages.     It  is  now  a  thriving  and  busy  locality. 


ii^icvvr  l:  -vv^V'  ' 


CHAPTER    XLV. 


OREGON  AND  CALIFORNIA  RAILROAD. 

Early  Efforts  to  Construct  a  Road-  Oregon  and  California  Grant— Line  built  to  Roseburg-  Difficulties  of  the  Com- 
pany—Extension of  the  Line  Southward— Difficulty  of  Construction— Triumph  of  Engineering  Skill— Its  Im- 
portance to  Southern  Oregon— Character  of  its  Management. 

The  construction  of  a  line  of  railroad  to  pass  up  the  Willamette  valley  and  enter 
California  by  way  of  the  Unipqua  and  Rogue  River  valleys,  engaged  the  attention  of 
enterprising  citizens  of  Oregon,  while  yet  it  was  a  territory..  Several  railroad  charters 
were  granted  by  various  legislatures,  but  none  of  these  projects  ever  assumed  a  more 
tangible  shape.  In  the  winter  of  1865-6  Simon  G.  Elliott  j^rocured  from  congress  a 
land  grant  subsidy  for  such  a  line,  and  immediately  came  to  Oregon  and  incorporated 
a  company  to  enjoy  its  benefits.  The  managers  of  the  enterprise  were  Ben  Holladay 
&  Co.  Bonds  were  sold  at  fifty  per  cent.,  and  money  enough  realized  to  construct  a 
line  200  miles  south  from  Portland,  terminating  at  Roseburg  in  1872.  The  advent  of 
this  road  into  Southern  Oregon,  although  it  penetrated  only  to  the  center  of  Douglas 
county,  was  an  event  of  supreme  importance.  The  whole  region  brought  within  the 
circle  of  its  influence  was  invigorated  and  entered  upon  a  season  of  unwonted  pros- 
perity. For  nearly  ten  years  Roseburg  remained  the  southern  terminus,  and  reajjcd 
all  the  benefit  to  be  derived  from  such  a  desirable  situation.  Much  litigation  had 
attended  the  operations  of  Beu  Holladay,  and  the  company  soon  became  bankrui)t. 
The  German  bondholders  decided  to  take  possession  of  the  property,  and  sent  Henry 
Villard  here  to  look  after  their  interests.  Out  of  confusion  he  brought  order,  and 
transformed  a  bankrupt  railroad  into  a  paying  enterprise.  In  1882  an  agreement  was 
entered  into  with  the  managers  of  the  Centralj^Pacific  to  extend  that  road  northward 
from  the  Sacramento  valley,  and  work  was  then  begun  at  Roseburg  to  continue  this 
line  southward  to  meet  the  Central  Pacific  at  the  Oregon  and  California  line.  This 
work,  as  well  as  the  management  of  the  whole  road,  is  under  the  direct  supervision  of 
Mr.  R.  Koehler,  vice-president  of  the  company.  Mr.  Koehler  brings  to  bear  in  the 
handling  of  the  road  an  experience  and  judgment  that  are  extremely  valuable.  He  is 
an  aflflible,  courteous  gentleman,  enjoying  the  confidence  and  respect  of  the  owners  of 
the  road,  as  well  as  all  who  come  in  contact  with  him  socially,  or  in  business  matters. 
His  oflUcial  conduct  is  marked  by  an  enlightened  regard  for  the  true  interests  of  the 
country  through  which  the  road  passes.  The  task  of  extending  the  road  beyond  Rose- 
burg has  proved  an  arduous  one. 

The  construction  of  the  railway  through  this  entire  region  has  been  marked 
by  the  greatest  dispatch  consistent  with  thorough  workmanship,  and  the  engineer- 
ing difficulties  to  be  overcome.  The  material  used  is  in  every  i)articular  of  the  very 
best  pr()Cural)lo.      Steel  rails  of  the  fniest  manufacture  have  I)e('n  laitl,  and  the  greatest 


382  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

pains  have  beeu  taken  in  the  selection  of  other  articles.  The  utmost  resources  of  the 
saw-mills  of  the  whole  region  have  been  brought  into  requisition  to  provide  the  neces- 
sary lumber  for  the  bridges,  culverts,  etc.,and  for  other  indispensable  purposes.  What- 
ever of  the  supplies  that  were  attainable  in  the  surrounding  country  have  been  pur- 
chased there,  and  employment  thus  given  to  the  neighboring  settlers.  Another  source 
of  revenue  to  the  latter  class  has  arisen  from  their  employment  in  the  construction  of 
the  road-bed,  for  which  an  immense  treasure  has  been  disbursed. 

The  advent  of  the  iron  horse  forms,  as  it  were,  an  epoch  in  the  history  of  this  section 
hardly  second  in  greatness  and  importance  to  the  settlement  of  the  country  itself. 
Railroad  communication  with  the  outer  world  is  to  the  inhabitants  of  Southern  Oregon 
a  matter  of  deepest  significance ;  its  effects,  extending  to  the  very  groundwork  of 
society,  and  penetrating  every  branch  of  business  and  every  industrial  occupation,  and 
making  themselves  felt  by  every  individual,  no  matter  in  what  situation  he  may  find 
himself.  The  ordinary  importance  of  such  an  event  is  here  intensified  many  fold  by 
reason  of  the  previous  utter  isolation  of  the  region — an  isolation  which  has  been  pre- 
viously dwelt  upon  herein,  and  which  has  scarcely  a  parallel  in  any  extensive  civilized 
locality.  The  results  of  the  new  and  improved  condition  of  things  have  already  been 
felt  beneficially,  even  to  the  utmost  limits  of  the  habitable  part  of  the  country,  and 
business,  formerly  of  limited  extent  and  uncertain  intent,  has  gained  a  wider  scope 
and  more  steadfast  character.  The  conditions  which  surrounded  the  settlement  of  this 
region  disappeared  with  celerity  at  the  first  blast  of  the  locomotive  whistle,  and  these 
mountain  valleys  became  at  that  moment  a  part  of  the  world  at  large,  and  bade 
adieu  at  once  to  their  former  seclusion  and  lax  habits  of  business. 

The  immensely  expensive  work  of  preparing  the  road-bed  through  the  rough  and 
mountainous  region  between  the  Umpqua  and  Rogue  rivers,  which  more  than  once  had 
been  pronounced  imjjassable  for  a  railroad,  weighed  upon  their  resources,  but  in  a  sur- 
prisingly short  space  of  time,  these  difficulties  were  conquered  and  the  army  of  con- 
struction moved  on  to  attack  the  enemy  in  even  a  stronger  position  among  the  peaks 
and  gorges  of  the  rugged  Siskiyou  range.  It  was  among  these  lofty  and  rugged  moun- 
tains that  the  greatest  difficulties  had  to  be  met,  and  the  greatest  and  most  extensive 
engineering  operations  carried  on.  In  that  portion  of  the  line  between  Barron's  and 
the  state  line  the  obstacles  were  of  the  most  serious  nature,  and  severely  taxed  the  most 
powerful  resources.  The  work  of  building  the  road  across  these  mountains  encounters 
difficulties  almost  unparalled  in  the  history  of  railway  construction  in  this  country,  and 
far  beyond  most  European  roads.  Their  extent  has  previously  prevented  the  union  of 
California  with  Oregon  by  rail,  and  except  for  the  energy,  perseverance  and  discern- 
ment of  the  principal  officers  of  the  Oregon  and  California  railwa}^  company,  might 
have  retarded  that  union  for  years  to  come.  There  are  in  Douglas  and  Josephine 
counties  nine  tunnels,  some  of  them  quite  extensive,  and  in  the  Siskiyou  region  there 
are  seven  more.  Tunnel,  number  13,  known  as  Buck  Rock  tunnel,  is  1,650  feet  in 
length,  and  number  15,  the  great  Siskiyou  tunnel,  is  3,070  feet  long.  Siskiyou  tunnel, 
besides  being  the  longest  upon  the  road,  will  take  rank  as  the  liighest  also,  being  4,152 
feet  above  the  sea-level. 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY. 


CHAPTER    XLVL 

GENERAL    DESCRIPTION    OF    DOUGLAS    COUNTY. 

Position  -Boundaries -Area  -Topography  Water  Courses— The  Umpqua  River  -Attempts  to  Navigate  the 
Stream— Channel  Improved  by  the  Government— The  Cascade  Mountains— Grand  Scenery— Snowy  Peaks 
and   Mirror    Lakes     Game   and  Fish   of  the   Cascades— The   North    Umpqua     The   Coast   Range. 

Of  the  five  counties  embraced  within  the  scope  of  this  work,  Douglas  is  the 
largest  and  lies  farthest  to  the  north.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Lane  county,  on 
the  east  by  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  on  the  south  by  the  counties  of 
Jackson  and  Josej^hine,  and  on  the  west  by  Coos  county  and  the  Pacific  ocean.  Its 
area  is  estimated  at  4,950  square  miles,  or  about  one-twentieth  of  the  whole  state  of 
Oregon,  of  which  it  is  one  of  the  most  important  and  prosperous  counties.  Its  shape 
is  quite  irregular,  since  its  boundary  lines  follow  principally  the  courses  of  rivers  and 
mountain  ranges,  and  its  greatest  length  is  121  miles,  running  northwest  and  southeast. 

Douglas  county  includes  the  region  commonly  known  as  the  Umpqua  valley  ; 
but  this  term  as  we  shall  see  is  a  misnomer.  The  only  resemblance  to  a  valley  consists 
in  the  basin-like  depression  which  the  whole  county  forms  when  contrasted  with  the 
height  of  the  mountains  which  encompass  it.  To  the  east  lie  the  Cascades ;  north  are 
the  Calapooias ;  south  are  the  Canyon  and  the  Rogue  river  mountains ;  while  on  the 
west  lies  that  portion  of  the  Coast  Range  known  as  the  Umi:)qua  mountains.  These 
ranges  are  mostly  co-incident  with  the  county  boundaries  as  established  by  law,  hence 
it  can  be  seen  that  nature  has  set  apart  this  region  and  surrounded  it  with  rocky  walls. 
The  interior  of  this  great  basin  is  composed  of  small  valleys,  plains,  canyons,  gorges, 
hills  and  mountains.  Irregular  ranges  jiroceed  from  the  main  mountain  chains  and 
cross  the  county  in  various  directions,  causing  an  endless  variety  of  hill  and  dale, 
meadow  land  and  high  elevation.  Tlie  highest  spurs  proceed  from  the  Cascades,  and 
diverging  westward,  enclose  between  them  the  various  eastern  confluents  of  the  Ump- 
qua, namely,  the  North  Umpqua,  South  Umpqua,  Calapooia,  Deer,  Cougar,  Dead 
Man's,  Bear,  Coffee,  Day's,  and  Myrtle,  creeks  or  rivers.  From  the  Canyon  moun- 
tains rises  Cow  creek,  which  enters  the  South  Umpqua.  In  the  hills  of  the  south- 
western portion  the  Olalla  [Olilly],  Ten  Mile  and  Looking-glass  creeks  take  tiieir  rise, 
flowing  northwest  into  the  Soutii  Umi)qua.  Hu1)bard,  Lake  and  Camp  creeks,  i-ising 
in  the  Umpqua  mountains,  lose  themselves  in  the  main  Umpqua.  into  which  run  tlie 
('alapooia  and  Elk  creeks.  Smith  river  ri.ses  in  the  northern  jtart  of  the  cnunty  and 
flowing  west  empties  into  the  sam(>  stream  near  its  mouth.     Only  one  important  stream 


384  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

within  the  limits  of  the  county  reaches  the  ocean  direct.  The  Siuslaw,  after  a  course 
of  about  fifty  miles,  runs  into  the  Pacific  without  first  communicating  with,  tlie  j^rin- 
cipal  river.  These  streams,  with  hundreds  of  lesser  size,  constitute  the  means  of 
drainage  of  the  entire  region.  These  means  are  perfect.  The  best  and  clearest  water 
flowing  from  thousands  of  springs  pervades  the  whole  county,  making  it  one  of  the 
best  watered  districts  imaginable. 

The  Umpqua  is  second  only  to  the  Willamette  of  thn  interior  streams  of 
Oregon  in  its  value  as  an  artery  of  commerce,  and  deserves  a  somewhat  extended 
description.  In  1879  it  was  surveyed  by  government  engineers,  from  whose 
report  the  following  is  condensed.  It  rises  in  the  Cascade  mountains  and  flows 
westward  for  180  miles,  measured  along  its  sinuosities,  entering  the  Pacific  ocean 
175  miles  south  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  Its  principal  branches  are  the 
North  and  South  Umpqua,  which  unite  ninety-six  miles  above  its  mouth.  It  drains 
with  its  tributaries  an  area  of  4,200  square  miles  of  mountainous  country.  Ssottsburg, 
situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  twenty-six  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  the  head 
of  navigation.  Above  this  the  cliaanal  presents  a  succession  of  rapids  and  deep  pools. 
From  Scottsburg  to  Gardiner,  at  the  head  of  the  Umpqua  bay,  a  distance  of  seventeen 
miles,  navigation  at  present  is  carried  on  by  means  of  steamboats,  which  make  regular 
trips  between  the  two  points,  carrying  the  mails,  passengers  and  freight.  Six  miles 
below  Scottsburg  the  river  is  from  300  to  1,500  feet  deep,  except  at  shoals  hereafter  to 
be  noticed.  Along  this  section  it  flows  between  stee|),  rugged  hills  of  terraced  sand- 
stone, fro'Ji  500  to  1,000  feet  high,  whose  slopes  extend  generally  in  an  unbroken  line 
into  the  water.  Five  miles  balow  Scottsburg  the  river  begins  to  widen.  From  this 
point  to  the  head  of  the  bay  its  width  varies  from  1,000  to  2,400  feet,  while  the  bases 
of  the  hills  receding  from  the  banks,  leave  several  strips  of  level  land  from  three  to  six 
feet  above  mean  tide  level.  All  of  the  arable  land  on  the  Umpqua,  below  Scottsburg, 
is  contained  in  these  mesdows,  whose  combined  area  does  not  exceed  2,000  acres.  They 
are  well  adapted  to  agriculture  and  grazing,  the  soil  being  rich  and  the  vegetation 
easily  cleared. 

Umpqua  bay,  from  its  entrance  to  its  head,  is  eight  miles  long,  and  from  three- 
fourths  to  one-half  mile  wide.  On  portions  of  both  sides,  marshes,  intersected  by  tidal 
sloughs,  extend  to  the  hills.  These  lands  cover  about  1,800  acres,  which,  when 
reclaimed  by  diking,  will  be  valuable.  The  bay  is  perfectly  land-locked,  affording  a 
sheltered  anchorage  of  1,500  acres,  with  depths  ranging  from  fourteen  to  thirty  feet  at 
low  tide.  It  is  the  deepest  just  below  Gardiner.  The  entrance  to  Umpqua  bay  pre- 
sents the  same  principal  features  and  general  outline  as  the  sea.  Rugged  hills,  covered 
with  fir  timber  on  the  south,  a  long  line  of  sand  spit,  strewn  with  drift,  on  the  north, 
the  channel  running  westward  to  the  bar,  which  lies  one-half  a  mile  outside  of  the 
general  shore  line.  No  change  of  importance  is  perceptible  in  the  form  and  position 
of  the  bar,  as  shown  by  the  United  States  coast  survey  of  1852.  The  engineers  made 
soundings  across  the  bar,  and  found  thirteen  feet  the  least  depth  at  low  tide.  Sailing 
vessels  provided  with  pilots  who  know  the  bar,  can  enter  in  favorable  weather.  The 
floods  of  the  Umpqua  occur  in  the  winter.  '  The  highest  recorded  is  that  of  December, 
18G1,  which  rose  to  a  height  of  forty-five  feet  above  low  water  mark  at  Scottsburg,  and 
covered  the  marshes  in  the  bay  to  a  depth  of  two  feet. 


o 


t> 


-^ 


:^ 


:^ 


3   O    IsT 


O    O    TJ    3Sr   T    TT 


F.  W.  BENSON.  C.  E. 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  385 

The  survey  mentioned  was  requested  by  the  citizens  of  Scottsburg  for  the  purpose 
of  ascertaining  the  feasibility  and  cost  of  removing  the  obstructions  to  navigation 
between  that  point  and  Gardiner.  These  consist  of  three  bars,  existing  at  Brandy  ishind, 
Echo  island,  and  the  mouth  of  Deane's  creek,  and  of  a  number  of  rocks  in  the  channel 
just  below  the  steamboat  landing  at  Scottsburg.  These  bars  have  been  formed  recently 
as  within  a  few  years  schooners  drawing  seven  and  a  half  feet  ascended  to  within  a 
mile  of  Scottsburg.  They  are  composed  of  sand,  mud  and  gravel  overlying  rock,  with 
a  ruling  depth  of  two  and  a  half  to  three  feet  at  mean  low  tide.  The  materials  required 
in  building  jetties  to  inci-ease  the  scour  are  found  in  abundance  in  the  vicinity.  The 
estimated  cost  of  improving  the  three  bars  is  $11,110.  "With  this  report  the  matter  was 
dropped,  no  subsequent  action  being  taken  either  by  the  government  or  interested 
residents. 

As  the  main  artery  of  the  valley,  the  navigability  of  the  Umpqna  was  formerly 
discussed,  and  Curtis  Stratton  attemped  to  demonstrate  the  feasibilit}'  of  running  flat- 
boats  laden  with  agricultural  produce  down  the  river  to  Scottsburg  and  there  selling 
the  vessel  for  what  the  lumber  would  bring,  having  no  hope  of  being  able  to  ascend  the 
river  with  any  craft.  This  bold  navigator  made  his  experimental  voyage  in  a  small 
skiff',  manned  by  two  or  three  persons,  and  for  the  sake  of  impressiveuess  carried  a  flag 
and  a  tin  horn  whose  footings  resounded  through  the  wooded  hills  and  rocky  canyons 
of  the  Umpqua.  Their  report  of  the  difficulties  they  encountered  destroyed  all  hope  of 
navigating  the  river,  for  a  time  at  least,  steam  power  not  then  having  entered  into  the 
calculation.  The  Swan,  a  steamer  commanded  by  Captain  Hahn  [Haun]  ascended  the 
river  as  far  as  Koseburg  in  1870.  The  distance  from  Scottsburg  to  Koseburg  was 
stated  to  be  nearly  100  miles.  The  latter  place  is  situated  at  an  elevation  of  324  feet 
above  the  ocean,  according  to  the  topographical  engineers  ;  but  later  surveys  make  it 
somewhat  more.  Winchester  is  308  feet  above  tide-water,  and  Canyon ville  516.  A 
move  was  made  to  secure  appropriations  from  the  general  government  foi"  tlie  purpose 
of  improving  the  channel,  as  Captain  Hahn  reported  that  the  expenditure  of  a  few 
hundred  dollars  would  enable  vessels  like  his  to  pass  the  rapids  with  facility,  except  in 
seasons  of  extreme  low  water.  Shortly  after  the  initial  voyage  a  company  known  as 
the  Merchants  and  Farmers'  Navigation  company,  was  incorporated  with  the  ol)ject  of 
"  navigating  the  Umpqua  river  from  Gardiner  to  Canyon  ville  or  as  far  as  practicable." 
The  directors  of  the  corporation  were  J.  C.  Floed,  president;  T.  P.  Sheridan,  J.  C. 
Hutchinson,  D.  C.  McClellan  and  S.  W.  Crane.  Asher  Marks  was  trea.sure  and  James 
Walton  secretary.  The  capital  stock  was  fixed  at  twelve  thousand  dollars.  Captain 
Hahn's  services  were  engaged  and  a  suitable  steamer  was  immediately  constructed. 
This  vessel  was  built  under  the  direction  of  Captain  Hahn,  and  was  completed  in 
August,  1870.  Her  name  was  the  Enterprise,  and  her  cost  with  incidentals  was  about 
18,000.  The  directors  of  the  company  advertised  their  rates  for  freighting  from 
Gardiner,  which  were  as  follows  :  To  Scottsburg  three  dollars  per  ton  ;  to  Calapooia  ten 
dollars ;  to  Eoseburg  twelve ;  and  to  landings  above  the  latter  place  fourteen  dollars. 
The  rates  down  river  were  just  one  half  the  u^)  river  tolls. 

In  editorial  comment  upon  these  events,  the  Plaindealer  remarked:  "There  is  now 
no  doubt  that  the  Enterprise  will  be  able  to  come  to  Koseburg  for  at  least  four  months 
in  the  year.  and.  witli  a  very  little  improvement  of  the  river,  will  be  able  to  make  her 


386  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

trips  for  eight  months.  The  difficuhies  in  the  way  of  navigation  are  more  apparent 
than  real,  the  distance  from  Scottsburg  to  Rosebnrg  being  one  hundred  miles,  and  the 
altitude  of  the  latter  place  being  about  three  hundred  feet  above  mean  tide.  The 
improvements  required  consist  jirinci^ially  in  blasting  rocks  from  the  channel.  There 
is  sufficient  water  to  secure  navigation  all  the  year  around  if  confined  in  one  bed,  and 
the  improvements,  if  once  made,  will  last  forever.  Some  few  wingdams  may  be  neces- 
sary on  the  South  Unipqua,  but  the  expense  of  these  will  be  comparatively  trifling.  The 
estimated  cost  of  these  improvements  is  $75,000,  which  would  open  to  commerce  a  more 
productive  country  than  the  Willamette  valley.  Senator  Williams,  the  champion  of 
Southern  Oregon,  introduced  a  bill  in  congress  to  authorize  the  secretary  of  war  to 
make  the  necessary  improvements,  but  the  bill  failed  to  pass.  While  we  believe  it  to 
be  the  duty  of  congress  to  make  improvements  upon  the  navigable  streams,  we  are 
happy  to  say  that  in  this  matter  we  shall  not  wait  for  their  action,  but  will  help  our- 
selves." 

About  the  first  of  February  following,  the  Eiitcrprhe  left  Scottsburg  ou  her  first 
trip  up  the  river,  and  ascended  beyond  Sawyer's  rapids,  but  finding  the  water  dimin- 
ishing, she  returned  to  Scottsburg,  and  made  no  further  efibrt.  The  winter  was  uncom- 
monly dry,  and  the  Umpqua  remained  very  low.  In  January  of  1871,  the  state  legis- 
lature memorialized  congress  for  an  appropriation  of  $75,000  to  improve  the  navigation 
of  the  Umpqua.  Some  months  before  this,  namely,  in  1870,  two  officers  of  the  U.  S- 
engineer  corps.  Colonel  Williamson  and  Lieutenant  Herren,  were  detailed  to  make  a 
survey  of  the  river,  in  order  to  ascertain  its  navigability.  They  reported  that  it  could 
be  made  navigable  for  about  seven  months  in  the  year,  with  a  depith  of  four  feet  above 
low  water,  from  Scottsburg  to  Roseburg,  for  about  $22,000 ;  and  that  a  steamer  could 
then  carrry  freight  to  Rosebui'g  for  $20  per  ton,  and  the  amount  saved  annually  on 
imports  would  pay  for  the  improvements. 

The  community  had  not  by  this  time  recovered  from  the  pleasant  sight  of  seeing  a 
steamer  floating  in  the  South  Umpqua  at  Roseburg,  and  upon  that  event  quite  a 
"  boom  "  had  been  built  up.  Aided  by  the  reports  of  the  government  engineers  and 
the  action  of  the  state  legislature,  an  appropriation  was  secured,  congress  giving  the 
sum  of  $22,600  for  the  purpose  of  removing  the  obstructions  to  navigation.  This  took 
place  in  March,  1871.  In  the  same  month  the  Plaindealer  said  :  "  We  are  confident 
that  ere  two  years  have  elapsed  Roseburg  will  have  daily  steam  communication  with 
the  coast  for  seven  months  in  the  year.  Farmers,  plant  grain!"  It  is  noticeable  that 
for  two  or  three  years  the  newspapers  argued  manfully  in  the  rainy  season  in  favor  of 
steamboats  on  the  Umpqua.  In  summer,  with  the  diminished  floods,  their  thoughts 
took  another  turn,  and  railroads  were  their  topic,  until  the  advent  of  the  Oregon  and 
California  road. 

The  appropriation  becoming  available,  the  question  of  how  to  expend  it  became  an 
important  one  for  the  whole  county.  Contracts  were  let  for  removing  the  rocks  at  the 
most  dangerous  rapids,  and  W.  B.  Clark  undertook  the  work.  The  work  was  duly 
carried  out  and  accepted.  Mr.  Clark  received  some  $14,000  of  the  sum,  the  remainder, 
it  is  understood,  not  having  been  yet  drawn.  The  results  as  to  the  navigation  of  the 
stream  do  not  appear  to  have  equaled  expectations.  No  vessels  have  been  able  to 
ascend  the  river,  or,  rather,  it  does  not  appear  that  any  have  tried.    Probably  the  idea 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  387 

of  navigating  a  stream  which  falls  on  an  average  three  feet  in  each  mile,  is  sulhcient  to 
deter  every  exjiei-ienced  navigator.  Since  the  coming  of  the  railroad,  tlie  trade  of 
Scottsburg  with  the  interior  has  almost  ceased,  and  the  demand  for  river  traffic  has 
ceased  with  it.  The  steamers  of  the  Merchants  and  Farmers'  Navigation  Company 
(they  had  purchased  the  Swan  of  Captain  Hahn)  were  engaged  on  the  lower  river, 
between  Scottsburg  and  Gardiner,  and  after  a  time  the  Enterprise  was  taken  around  to 
Coos  bay  for  service  on  that  body  of  water.  Captain  Hahn,  the  veteran  navigator,  the 
Columbus  of  the  Umpqua,  removed  from  the  scene  of  his  triumphs  and  perils,  and 
withdrew  to  California.  The  railroad  projected  from  Roseburg  to  Coos  bay  will  fniallv 
remove  all  necessity  for  navigation  of  the  Umpqua. 

Near  the  eastern  boundary  of  Douglas  county  lies  a  very  interesting  and  remai-k- 
able  region,  whose  peculiarities  deserve  a  somewhat  lengthened  description,  unique  as 
they  are  in  many  respects.  It  is  -a  region  of  trees,  of  rocks,  and  of  waterfalls.  Here 
nature  is  seen  at  her  grandest.  The  precipitous  sides  of  the  lofty  mountains  are 
clothed  with  evergreens.  In  the  shade  of  the  mighty  forest  the  streams  flow  from  slope 
to  slope,  tracing  their  lonely  way  over  rock  and  through  chasm,  laving  the  mossy 
boulder  and  bearing  away  minute  fragments  to  the  land  below.  In  summer  this  is  an 
enchanting  land.  All  nature  as  seen  in  the  temperate  zone,  conspires  to  make  inter- 
esting and  sublime  the  country  of  the  Cascades.  It  is  of  the  higher  altitudes  that 
mountaineers  and  travelers  speak  when  they  describe  the  glories  of  the  scenery.  The 
region  is  one  of  wonderful  -beauty,  grandeur  and  picturesqueness.  The  union  of  vast 
distances,  with  towering  heights,  mirror-like  expanses  of  water,  limitless  forests,  and 
rushing  torrents,  makes  up  a  scene  that  even  the  most  prosaic  of  humanity  can  but 
regard  with  interest  and  awe.  The  mighty  Cascade  range  culminates  at  the  head  of 
the  Rogue  and  Umpqua  rivers.  It  is  there  that  are  massed  and  concentrated  the  grand- 
est views,  the  most  romantic  situations,  the  fairest  of  nature's  works.  In  no  otiier 
region  of  equal  extent  are  found  a  greater  number  or  variety  of  objects  attractive  to  the 
tourist,  the  lover  of  nature  or  the  pleasure-seeker.  Eleven  grand  snow-peaks  are  ranged 
within  view.  Mounts  Scott,  Thielsen,  Pitt,  Old  Baldy,  the  Bohemian  range  and  Dia- 
mond Peak,  crowned  with  everlasting  snow,  seem  to  crowd  upon  each  other.  A  score 
of  beautiful  lakes,  tenanted  by  the  gamest  flsh,  lie  about  the  bases  of  the  giant  peaks. 
Crater  lake,  to  the  southward,  on  the  confines  of  Jackson  county,  lies  surrounded  l)y 
its  five  sentinels,  objects  to  rivet  the  eye  and  the  mind.  The  volcano  lying  within  the 
magic  circle  formed  by  the  upper  waters  of  South  Ump(]ua,  presents  its  ruined  and 
demolished  walls  as  evidence  of  the  mighty  agencies  which  built  up  this  stupendous 
range,  and  later  on  covered  a  vast  region  with  pumice  and  scoria.  This  mountjiin,  or 
rather  the  remains  of  what  was  once  a  mountain,  and  perhaps  one  of  the  largest  and 
highest  of  all  the  Cascades,  lies  southwest  of  Cowhorn  Peak,  and  but  a  few  miles  dis- 
tant. It  consists  of  a  rim  of  rock  a  few  hundred  feet  in  height,  rising  steeply  from  the 
oast  and  nearly  perpendicularly  from  the  west,  toward  which  point  tlie  rim  is  concave 
like  t)ie  arc  of  a  circle.  This  arc  partly  inclo.ses  the  space  upon  which  the  volcano  sat, 
bill  whose  internal  forces  destroyed  it  and  blew  it  in  fury  from  its  resting  place.  Four 
small  lakes  filled  with  clear  water  and  alive  with  trout,  sparkle  in  the  place  where  once 
such  mighty  energies  were  at  work.  Five  hundred  feet  perpendicularly  ri.se  the  rugged 
rocks   to  the   east,  forming  an   inaccessible  wal!  which   overlooks   the  now  ]tlacid   and 


388  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

quiet  scene.  The  altitude  of  the  higher  peaks  varies  from  8,500  to  9,250  feet,  Diamond 
Peak  and  Mt.  Scott  being  of  about  the  former  height,  and  Baldy,  Cowhorn  and  Pitt, 
each  over  9,000  feet.  The  Bohemian  range,  at  the  junction  of  the  Calapooias  with  the 
Cascades,  is  something  like  7,000  feet,  and  many  other  prominent  points  north  and 
south  approach  or  exceed  these  figures 

Through  these  solitudes  the  lordly  elk  once  made  his  way,  but  now  his  race  is 
there  extinct.  Bears  of  various  species,  the  brown,  the  black,  the  cinnamon,  and  even 
the  grizzly,  abound  upon  the  lower  slopes,  deriving  their  sustenance  from  the  clover, 
which  blossoms  early,  and  getting  fat  in  the  time  the  huckleberries  ripen.  At  other 
times  they  exist  upon  smaller  and  weaker  animals,  the  sheep  of  the  adventurous  fron- 
tiersmen forming  a  greater  part  of  their  diet.  Bears  are  most  numerous  upon  the  head- 
waters of  the  South  Umpqua,  where  they  may  be  seen  in  dozens,  in  early  spring, 
browsing  upon  the  tender  shoots  of  clover.  Here  is  the  sportsman's  paradise.  To  hunt 
and  kill  even  this  game  is  a  thing  of  little  moment.  Even  the  powerful  grizzly  is  dis- 
patched with  hardly  a  thought  of  danger  by  the  hardy  guides  and  mountaineers.  The 
deer  (blacktail)  are  hunted  with  success,  three  Indians  having  killed,  in  a  few  days,  or 
rather  murdered  for  their  hides,  no  less  than  two  hundred  and  ten  deer  on  the  small 
stream  known  as  Fish  lake  creek.  These  beautiful  and  timid  animals  become  very  fat 
in  the  autumn,  their  flesh  being  equal  to  the  best  beef  and  mutton.  The  mule  deer  is 
occasionally  met  with  on  this  slope  of  the  range,  but  not  often  do  they  come  west  of 
the  summit,  their  habitat  being  upon  or  among  the  less  wooded  hills  and  mountains  of 
Eastern  Oregon  and  Idaho.  They  exceed  the  blacktail  in  size,  but  not  in  quality  of 
meat.  The  maximum  weight  of  the  mule  deer  is  said  to  reach  300  pounds,  or  twice 
that  of  the  largest  blacktails. 

Antelopes  have  been  seen  near  Cowhorn,  but  their  range  is  eastward  on  the  open 
hills,  and  rarely  are  they  found  in  a  densely  timbered  country.  Mountain  sheep  are 
reported  in  the  Cascades,  but  are  seldom  or  never  seen  in  Douglas  county.  Grouse 
are  abundant,  pheasants  not  less  so.  The  former,  a  migratory  bird,  accumulates  much 
fat  during  his  stay  among  the  huckleberries  and  salal  bushes,  and  provides  for  the 
hunter's  fare  a  delicacy  not  easily  surpassed.  Geese  and  ducks  breed  in  the  lakes  and 
marshes  of  the  higher  Cascades,  and  during  a  great  part  of  the  year  are  exceedingly 
numerous.  Their  flesh,  too,  assists  to  vary  the  diet  of  the  Iiardy  hunter.  Trout  of  two 
species  abound  in  nearly  all  the  lakes  and  streams.  These  matchless  game  fishes  are 
of  more  than  one  species,  the  small  mountain  or  brook  trout  existing  in  the  rai)id 
streams,  a  much  larger  variety  finding  its  home  in  the  lakes  and  certain  of  the  larger 
and  deeper  rivers.  These  latter  not  unfrequently  attain  a  weight  of  ten  pounds  or 
more.  Some  minor  varieties  of  fish  also  occur  here,  the  chub  being  the  principal.  In 
Fish  lake,  close  to  the  volcano,  the  greatest  profusion  of  these  varieties  occurs,  making 
a  favorite  resort,  not  only  of  man,  but  of  those  more  skilled  fishers,  the  fish-eating  birds 
and  mammals.  By  a  singular  chance  there  are  no  fish  in  Cowhorn  lake,  as  rejiorted 
by  mountaineers.  The  water  of  that  lake  is  said  to  be  warm,  which  may  account  for 
their  absence.  The  guessed  altitude  of  this  sheet  of  water  is  4,500  feet,  its  surface  has 
an  area  of  5,000  acres,  it  is  comparatively  shallow,  is  oblong  in  shape,  and  forms  the 
source  of  the  North  Umpqua.  Next  to  Crater  lake  it  presents  more  points  of  interest 
than  any  other  of  the  remarkable  bodies  of  water  found  on  the  higher  Cascades. 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  389 

Tlie  region  of  the  North  Umixjua  is  one  of  can^yons,  endless  precipiees  and  water- 
falls, and  is  destitute  of  aught  but  the  faintest  of  trails.  Taking  its  rise  in  Lake  Dia- 
mond (Cowhorn  Peak  lake),  the  river  flows  in  a  stream  of  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  wi(Uh, 
and  perhaps  a  foot  deep,  running  over  a  bed  of  pumice  stone.  Further  on  it  is 
swelled  by  numerous  affluents,  all  rising  from  springs,  sometimes  of  great  capacity,  and 
all  carrying  the  clearest  and  coldest  of  water,  within  which  the  speckled  trout  gambols. 
Instead  of  extensive  prairies,  only  very  small  openings  appear,  covered  with  grjiss. 
Within  these  the  greatest  profusion  of  game,  animals  and  birds  find  sustenance,  and  in 
the  shadow  of  the  woods  the-  huge  and  active  cougar  (California  lion)  stalks,  cat-like, 
upon  his  unsuspecting  victim.  Man  has  never  reduced  these  lonely  solitudes  to  his  sway, 
and  for  many  a  long  year  will  find  them  profitless,  save  for  the  timber  which  grows 
here,  or  for  the  health  wdiich  all  may  seek  in  the  pure  air  and  icy  waters. 

The  Coast  Range  mountains,  though  not  so  lofty  as  the  Cascades,  and  not  possessing 
the  snowy  peaks  and  great  mountain  lakes  of  which  that  region  boasts,  are  still  most 
picturesque  and  beautiful.  From  it  run  down  many  small  streams  to  the  sea,  or  to 
augment  the  waters  of  the  Umpqua,  Siuslaw  or  Coquille,  which  have  hewn  a  passage 
for  themselves  through  this  opposing  wall.  These  little  streams  dash  from  rock  to 
rock,  gathering  here  and  there  into  cool  and  shaded  pools  where  dwell  the  speckled 
trout.  At  their  banks  the  timid  deer  assuages  his  thirst.  Sometimes  the  lordly  elk — 
scion  of  a  fast  disappearing  race — ventures  to  the  mossy  brim.  Certain  wise  and  cau- 
tious forest  inhabitants,  the  marten,  the  weasel,  the  fisher,  here  hide  from  the  eye  of 
man,  and  prey  upon  the  harmless  creatures  destined  for  their  food.  The  blundering 
black  bear,  much  maligned  for  his  love  of  mutton,  has  his  unpretentious  home  among 
these  almost  impenetrable  thickets.  The  California  lion  has  been  heard  to  roar  in 
these  solitudes,  and  his  lesser  congener,  the  wild  cat,  is  not  unknown  therein.  The 
active  chipmunk  and  the  small  red  squirrel,  with  their  graceful  and  handsome  relative 
the  bushy-tailed  gray  squirrel,  find  within  these  woods  the  sustenance  and  protection 
which  their  habits  demand  and  utilize.  This  is  even  now  the  condition  of  these 
mountains,  so  little  has  the  order  of  nature  been  disturbed. 

The  avalanche  or  landslide,  is  a  feature  of  this  region,  when  great  masses  of 
earth,  loosened  by  the  action  of  the  water,  come  rushing  irresistibly  down  some  narrow 
canyon.  Sometimes  every  loose  boulder,  all  trees,  and  every  particle  of  earth  will  be 
swept  onward  with  the  accunuilated  waters,  leaving  the  place  over  which  they  passed  as 
clean  and  bare  as  if  it  had  been  carefully  cleared  by  the  mightiest  forces  of  science 
antl  nature.  A  marked  example  of  this  may  be  seen  at  Laird's  Half-way  House, 
usually  known  as  Sitkum.  A  slide  of  unusual  magnitude  took  place  in  the  mountain 
above  the  house,  an  enormous  amount  of  timber,  boulders  and  earth  falling  over  the 
100-foot  cascade  near  by.  From  the  narrow  canyon  below  the  fall  every  vestige  of 
loose  rocks,  trees  and  earth  was  removed,  leaving  the  solid  sandstone  walls  and  floor 
perfectly  smooth.  Below  and  near  the  buildings  the  debris  collected,  and  now  lies 
many  feet  in  depth,  covering  fertile  land  and  tlesolating  an  otherwise  pleasant  pros- 
pect. Nearly  twenty  persons  were  gathered  in  the  house,  and  all  narrowly  escaped 
death,  the  avalanche  passing  so  near  as  absolutely  to  pile  itself  to  a  considerable  height 
against  the  end  of  the  building.  A  little  diversion  of  its  flood  and  all  would  have 
been  lost. 


CHAPTER  XLVIL 

RESOURCES  AND  INDUSTRIES  OF  DOUGLAS  COUNTY. 

Wealth  of  Timber —Extent  of  the  Forests— Varieties  of  Forest  Growth— Timber  Comparatively  Untouched — Min- 
eral and  Coal  Resources— Agricultural-Sheep,  Cattle  and  Horses— Fruit  and  Berries— Transportation  Facilities. 

The  natural  resources  of  Douglas  county  areof  the  most  valuable  and  inexhaustible 
character,  consisting  of  a  wealth  of  desirable  timber,  valuable  deposits  of  minerals,  and 
a  soil  of  great  fertility.  Agriculture  and  stock-raising,  especially  sheep  of  the  finer 
grades,  comprise  the  leading  industries  of  the  people.  Of  the  various  resources  and 
industries  it  is  the  purpose  of  this  chapter  to  speak  in  detail.  The  most  prominent  and 
observable  source  of  wealth  is  the  limitless  extent  of  forests  that  cover  the  sides  and 
bases  of  the  mountains  which  enclose  the  Umpqua  basin.  Two  vast  ranges  of  forest- 
covered  mountains  traverse  the  state  from  north  to  south,  the  Coast  Range  and  Cas- 
cades, and  within  the  limits  of  Douglas  county,  united  as  they  are  by  lateral  ranges, 
they  bear  upon  their  tops  and  sides  a  wealth  that  would  ransom  a  nation. 

As  yet,  the  woodman's  axe  has  left  uneflfaced  the  glories  of  the  great  forest,  which 
clothe,  as  with  a  garment,  the  rugged,  scarred  and  canyon-seamed  sides  of  the  Cascades. 
For  thirty  miles,  with  scarcely  a  break,  the  mighty  woods  extend  downward,  from  near 
the  everlasting  snow  to  the  green  and  smiling  valleys.  Here  grow  the  cedar,  pine,  fir, 
hemlock  (scattering),  yew  and  other  less  notable  trees,  and  attaining  a  great  size  and 
producing  lumber  of  the  very  best  quality.  The  pine  is  of  two  varieties,  the  sugar  and 
the  white  pine,  the  former,  a  most  beautiful  and  valuable  wood,  predominating.  Speci- 
mens of  this  timber  yield  boards,  split  with  frow  and  mallet,  to  the  length  of  thirty  and 
even  fifty  feet.  They  grow  to  a  great  height,  affording  a  length  of  from  70  to  100  feet 
clear  of  limbs  and  knots,  and  reaching  five  and  a  half  feet  in  greatest  diameter.  The 
finest  groves  of  sugar  pine  exist  on  a  small  tributary  of  Cavitt  creek,  where,  on  a  space 
of  one  acre,  sixteen  of  these  fine  trees  stand,  whose  average  base  diameter  is  nearly  four 
feet.  The  firs  also  flourish,  growing  with  a  straight  grain  that  allows  them  to  be  split 
to  almost  any  length.  The  yellow  fir  is  the  most  valuable  ;  the  red  variety  most 
abundant.  The  cedar  grows  abundantly,  partaking  of  the  qualities  of  the  pine  as  far 
as  regards  adaptability  to  the  construction  of  dwellings.  Two  varieties,  the  smooth  bark 
and  the  mountain  cedar,  grow,  the  latter  by  far  the  most  abundantly,  but  least  valua- 
ble. A  portion  of  the  timber  may  be  found  to  be  affected  by  dry  rot,  but  the  greater 
percentage  is  perfectly  sound  in  every  particular.  The  sugar  pine  attains  a  maximum 
diameter  of  seven  feet ;  there  are  red  firs  of  a  diameter  of  eleven  feet,  though  these  are 
rare ;  and  specimens  of  the  smooth  bark  cedar  have  reached  eight  feet  through  oi- 
twenty-five  feet  in  circumference.  The  rough  bark  cedar  is  somewhat  less  in  maximum 
diameter.     Besides  these,  some  less  important  growths  are  found.     The  yew,  famous  for 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  391 

its  durability,  grows  upon  the  low  flats  sometimes  to  a  diameter  of  tliirty  inches.  In 
Portland,  the  wood  commands  eighty  dollars  per  thousand  feet,  being  used  for  the  liner 
grades  of  cabinet  work. 

In  order  to  arrive  at  a  roughly  approximate  estimate  of  the  amount  of  tir,  pine  and 
cedar  timber  now  standing  in  the  eastern  part  of  Douglas  county,  it  is  necessary  to 
inquire  what  area  of  land  is  covered  by  these  trees?  For  other  purposes  we  may  assume 
i!iat  the  whole  country  east  of  range  4,  is  timber  land.  This  area  equals  about  thirty 
townships.  In  the  absence  of  minute  statistics  one  can  do  no  more  than  assume  that 
the  average  of  standing  timber  thereon  is  35,000  feet  per  acre — presumably  a  low  esti- 
mate. These  jBgures  result  in  22,666,000,000  feet,  a  quantity  inconceivable  to  the 
mind,  but  certainry  a  very  important  and  telling  factor  in  the  future  prosperitv  of  the 
country. 

Thus  far  but  faint  attempts  have  been  made  to  utilize  this  splendid  source  of 
wealth.  Two  small  mills  only  are  upon  the  North  Umpqua.  Of  these,  Patterson's 
mill,  owned  now  by  the  Tipton  Brothers,  stands  upon  the  banks  of  the  river  a  mile 
below  the  East  Umpqua.  Steam  is  the  motive  power,  and  there  are  double  circulars, 
edgers,  trimmers,  a  planer,  etc.  This  mill,  built  in  1876,  was  located  four  miles  further 
upstream,  but  on  the  accession  of  the  present  owners,  in  1878,  was  removed  to  its  pres- 
ent site.  Its  capacity  is  from  10,000  to  13,000  feet  of  lumber  per  day,  most  of  which 
finds  a  market  at  Roseburg.  The  other  mill  spoken  of  is  owned  now  (1883)  by  Messrs. 
Sambert  &  Noble,  purchasers  from  Mr.  Trask,  and  is  located  one  mile  below  the  Pat- 
terson, having  nearly  the  same  capacity.  The  motive  povt'er  is  water.  The  mill  was 
built  about  1876,  and  manufactures  ordinary  lumber,  doors,  windows,  shingles,  etc. 
The  average  price  of  rough  lumber,  &v,  per  thousand,  has  been  about  ten  dollars,  while 
sugar  pine  has  brought  twenty-five  dollars. 

The  timber  covering  the  Coast  Range  differs  in  some  respects  from  that  of  the 
Cascades,  the  chief  point  of  distinction  being  the  vast  quantity  of  white  cedar  to  be 
found  in  these  coast  mountains.  Though  found  on  the  eastern  slope,  this  valuable  tree 
is  only  seen  in  its  splendor  and  abundance  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains  that  look  out 
upon  the  sea.  The  red  cedar  also  exists  in  quantity.  Red  and  white  fir  and  sj)ruce 
are  also  found  in  abundance.  Along  the  water  courses,  especially  on  the  western  slope^ 
myrtle  is  found  in  such  quantities  as  to  dispute  the  pre-eminence  of  the  stately  firs  and 
cedars.  The  myrtle  is  known  in  California  as  laurel  or'  pepper-wood,  and  in  other 
places  as  the  bay  tree.  Not  less  imposing  in  appearance,  though  less  numerous,  are  the 
maples  which  fairly  divide  the  traveler's  attention  with  the  myrtles.  These  prefer 
likewise  the  soft,  mellow  soil  of  the  bottom  lands.  They  grow  as  high  as  their  neigh- 
bors and  perhaps  slightly  higher,  but  so  equal  are  they  all  in  size,  height  and  appear- 
ance that  the  harmony  of  the  groves  is  unbroken.  Both  grow  from  fifty  to  seventy 
feet,  stand  at  regular  distances  and  form  a  dense  shade.  Both  are  deciduous ;  that  is, 
they  drop  their  leaves  at  a  certain  season  and  stand  mcovered  before  the  blasts  of  win- 
ter. Their  rich  foliage  lies  uj)on  the  ground  to  quieny  decompose  and  add  its  elements 
to  the  soil  already  enriched  by  the  deposits  of  centuries.  The  resulting  mould  forms 
the  richest  and  most  easily  cultivated  soil  of  which  the  state  of  Oregon  can  Ixiast.  For 
root  crojjs  and  gra.sses  it  has  no  ecjual. 


392  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

As  yet  tlie  forests  of  the  Coast  Range  stand  almost  in  their  primeval  condition. 
Here  and  there  the  mountain  side  is  scared  with  great  patches  of  black,  sometimes 
miles  in  extent,  where  forest  fires  have  ravaged  the  vergin  forest ;  but  man  has  made 
little  impression  upon  them  in  taking  out  the  few  thousand  feet  of  lumber  his  needs 
have  required.  The  patches  cleared  by  settlers,  chiefly  the  onaple  and  myrtle  from  the 
bottom  lands,  represent  the  most  considerable  inroads  upon  the  forests;  when  slaughtered, 
or  "  slashed,"  for  that  purpose,  the  trees  are  generally  disposed  of  by  burning.  The 
timber  forests  of  Douglas  will  be  a  source  of  wealth  to  her  people  for  many  generations 
to  come. 

There  is  another  element  of  natural  wealth,  and  that  is  the  mineral  treasure  the 
earth  contains,  both  of  gold  and  silver.  The  most  important  mineral  region  is  the 
Bohemia  district,  situated  in  the  Calapooia  mountains,  about  fifty  miles  northeast 
from  Oakland,  and  seventy  miles  southeast  of  Eugene  City.  The  quartz  ledges  are 
chiefly  found  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  three  peaks,  named  Mounts  Majesty, 
Fairview  and  Grouse.  One  Johnson,  a  prospector,  discovered  the  ledges  in  1867.  In 
the  next  year  several  persons  examined  the  locality,  ascertaining  that  a  very  large 
number  of  gold  and  silver-bearing  veins  existed  there.  The  most  prominent  ledge, 
named  Excelsior,  is  situated  upon  the  crest  of  Grouse  mountain  from  which  a  precepi- 
tous  canyon  descends,  affording  access  to  the  vein  at  gi'eat  depths,  with  comparatively 
little  tunneling,  and  obviating  the  use  of  pumjiiug  and  hoisting  works.  Assays  were 
early  made  of  this  ore,  the  results  reaching  two  thousand  dollars  per  ton.  An  ample 
supply  of  ore  for  years  was  at  hand.  Judge  Mosher  and  other  gentlemen  of  Roseburg 
became  owners  of  claims  in  this  district  and  set  about  developing  them,  after  a  great 
deal  of  expense  and  trouble  to  find  them  profitless.  Mr.  Veatch,  a  capable  mineralo- 
gist and  expert,  since  deceased,  made  a  journey  to  these  mines  under  the  auspices  of  the 
owners  and  reported  thereon  at  length,  describing  them  in  flattering  terms  and  only 
taking  exceptions  to  the  road  thence  which  he  denounced  as  of  unparalleled  difl&culty. 
With  great  difficulty  and  at  a  cost  of  three  thousand  dollars  the  Bohemia  and  Cala- 
pooia  Ridge  route  to  the  mines  was  opened  in  1871. 

Many  unavailing  efforts  were  made  to  work  these  mines,  but  without  success. 
John  Rast,  of  Roseburg,  owning  a  claim,  became  much  interested  therein,  but  his  dis- 
coveries extended  only  to  finding  an  extraordinary  species  of  animal  life  in  the  snow 
thereabouts.  Joseph  Knott  and  son,  of  Portland,  purchased  a  steam  quartz  mill  of  five 
stamjis  and  ten-horse  power,  transported  it  at  great  cost  and  trouble  to  the  toj)  of  the 
mountain  and  set  it  up.  His  venture  was  not  altogether  unsuccessful,  if  we  may  believe 
newspaper  reports,  for  his  mine  produced  some  very  valuable  ore.  From  a  crushing, 
of  one  hundred  tons  the  yield  averaged  forty-five  dollars  per  ton — an  extraordinary 
production  for  any  gold  quartz  mine.  No  base  metals  were  found  in  the  rock  to  render 
amalgamation  difficult,  and  the  gold  was  free  and  coarse.  Even  under  such  desirable 
conditions  work  soon  ceased  and  has  not  since  been  resumed.  It  is  to  be  understood 
from  this  that  the  veins  carried  but  small  percentage  of  gold-bearing  quartz,  the  gi-eater 
proportion  being  barren  rock.  Bohemia  District  is  now  practically  abandoned;  but 
the  not  distant  future  may  see  its  mines  re-opened  and  work  carried  on  with  vigor. 
Developments  showed  that  silver-bearing  rock  existed  to  some  extent,  one  very  rich 
streak  having  yielded  chloride  of  silver  to  the  amount  of  nearly  two  hundred  dollars 


3J^ 

o  □ 

CD  rn 

m  z 

DO  n 

c  m 


n  C-) 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  393 

l^er  ton.  This  fact  is  of  importance  as  pointing  out  what  form  future  developments 
may  take.  Quartz  ledges  also  exist  on  Poorman's  creek,  between  Olilly  and  Cow  creeks, 
and  at  other  places  in  the  county. 

From  the  vicinity  of  the  Bohemia  district  flows  Steamboat  creek,  which  has  its 
sources  high  in  the  Calapooia  mountains,  at  an  altitude  of  not  less  than  7,000  feet. 
Along  the  creek  there  are  several  thousand  acres  of  land,  good,  not  only  for  agricul- 
tural, but  mineral  pursuits.  In  18(50  several  persons  were  engaged  in  mining  on  the 
stream,  among  whom  was  Robert  Easton,  who  made  with  a  short  sluice  from  two  to 
four  dollars  a  day.  Another  attempt  was  made  by  a  company  in  1864,  but  a  difference 
in  their  councils  stojaped  the  work  when  it  was  likely  to  be  profitable.  Since  that  time 
nothing  has  been  done,  and  one  of  the  best  portions  of  the  county  has  remained  a 
wilderness.  The  creek  is  accessible  from  Patterson's  mill  by  an  Indian  trail ;  but 
small  difiiculty  would  be  found  in  building  an  excellent  wagon  road  to  the  headwaters 
of  the  most  magnificent  branch  of  the  North  Umpqua,  which  will  develop  a  section  of 
the  county  unsurpassed  for  mining  or  grazing  purposes,  without  counting  its  agricul- 
tural facilities. 

About  the  time  when  Steamboat  creek  was  being  prospected,  miners  were  also 
examining  the  other  tributaries  of  the  North  Umpqua  with  a  view  to  working  the 
auriferous  sands.  In  1870  placers  were  discovered  on  Fall  creek,  flowing  into  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  in  township  26  south,  range  3  west.  Eor  a  time  the  miners 
were  said  to  be  making  from  four  to  ten  dollars  per  day.  These  deposits  proved  of 
small  extent,  however,  and  were  soon  abandoned.  On  White  Rock  creek.  Copperhead 
creek,  and  neighboring  small  streams  the  "color"  was  easily  found,  and  a  small  amount 
of  gold  was  taken  out,  chiefly  by  some  half  dozen  men,  among  whom  was  R.  L.  Cavitt, 
now  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  his  mining  labors.  Three  hundred  dollars  were  the 
result  of  his  operations  in  a  certain  small  gulch.  The  deposits  of  gravel,  though  pay- 
ing pretty  well  for  a  short  time,  proved  of  too  small  extent  to  be  of  importance,  and 
]ilacer  mining  upon  the  North  Umpqua  and  its  tributaries  is  a  thing  of  the  past. 

Placer  mining  has  been  carried  on  for  a  number  of  years  in  a  desultory 
manner  and  with  varied  success,  on  Cow  creek,  and  its  tributaries,  Tennessee  gulch, 
Hog  'Em  and  Starve-out.  Cow  creek  takes  its  rise  on  the  south  side  of  the  Umpqua 
mountains,  but  turning  north  cuts  through  these  mountains  and  empties  into  the  St)uth 
Umpqua  about  twenty  miles  south  of  Roseburg.  Hog  'Em,  Starve-out  and  Tennessee 
gulch  are  south  of  the  canyon.  Placer  gold  has  also  been  discovered  and  mined  on 
Coffee  creek,  a  stream  which  empties  into  the  South  Umpqua  twenty  miles  above 
Canyonville ;  on  Olilly,  a  branch  of  Looking  Glass  creek ;  on  Poorman's  creek  near 
Canyonville;  and  on  Myrtle  creek.  Mining  is  now  being  quite  extensively  pursued 
along  Cow  creek,  where  the  hydraulic  process  is  being  used  to  some  extent.  There  are 
no  data  by  which  the  amount  of  gold  obtained  from  these  mines  can  be  ascertaine<l,  but 
it  is  very  considerable,  the  most  of  them  having  yielded  largely  when  first  discovered. 
They  are  all  surface  diggings,  and  having  been  carelessly  worked,  have  for  the  most 
part  been  abandoned  to  the  Chinese,  who  undoubtedly  work  them  with  profit. 

Quicksilver  is  another  mineral  to  be  found  in  Douglas  county,  and  for  several 
years  the  cinnabar  ore  has  been  worked  to  advantage.  In  1882  the  firm  of  Todd, 
Emerson  ct  Co.  made  a  run  of  100  tons  of  ore  at  their  Elk  Head  mine,  and  took  out 


394  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

500  lbs.  of  quicksilver,  besides  which  some  200  lbs.  more  reinaiued  in  the  condensers. 
They  claimed  to  have  an  abundant  supply  of  ore,  their  works  passing  through  over 
thirty  feet  of  paying  rock.  This  company  began  work  in  1880.  The  ISTonpareil  and 
Bonanza  mines,  both  worked  by  the  Quicksilver  Mining  Company,  are  in  the  vicinity 
of  Oakland.  Tellurium,  also,  is  being  mined  by  the  Tellurium  Mining-  Company, 
which  has  been  at  work  several  years  with  good  success.  Copper  and  nickel  are  found, 
but  no  mine  is  being  worked.     Valuable  deposits  of  lime  rock  and  cement  also  exist. 

The  item  of  coal  must  not  be  omitted  in  detailing  the  bountiful  gifts  nature  has 
bestowed  upon  this  region.  Coos  county,  adjoining  Douglas  on  the  west  and  south- 
west, is  almost  a  solid  bed  of  coal  beneath  the  surface,  and  this  broad  expanse  of  car- 
boniferous veins  extends  far  into  Douglas  county.  Coal  also  exists  in  the  Calapooia 
mountains.  No  eflFort  is  being  made  to  develop  this  great  resource  in  this  county,  but 
it  lies  there  ready  to  yield  up  its  treasure  to  those  who  seek  it.  With  the  most  dili- 
gent and  extensive  working  of  these  mines  the  fields  would  remain  inexhaustible  for 
centuries  to  come. 

The  most  permanent,  reliable  and  available  source  of  wealth  Douglas  possesses,  is 
her  winding  valleys  and  fertile  soil.  Here  thousands  of  j^eople  have  built  their  houses, 
and  here  they  draw  from  the  willing  earth  the  food  that  supj^orts  many  thousands 
more.  Though  small  in  proportion  to  the  whole  area  of  the  county,  the  total  of  valley 
and  bottom  lands  amounts  to  many  thousands  of  acres.  The  valleys  have,  in  the  main, 
long  since  been  cleared  of  obstructing  timber  and  subdued  to  the  yoke  of  the  plow,  or 
fitted  for  the  grazing  of  sheep  and  cattle.  There  is,  however,  much  bottom  land,  and 
some  valleys  somewhat  remote  from  the  usual  routes  of  travel,  which  can  still  be  located 
upon  by  those  seeking  homes.  AVhen  the  land  has  been  denuded  of  its  enormous  store 
of  trees,  the  flats,  hills  and  bottoms  become  valuable  for  the  crojis  they  will  raise  or  the 
herds  they  will  support.  The  soil  is  good ;  no  other  could  support  the  immense  growth 
of  trees  and  shrubs.  It  is  mostly  a  dark  mould  derived  from  the  decomposition  of 
vegetable  matter,  as  leaves,  roots,  trunks  of  trees,  and  their  admixture  with  earthly 
ingredients,  carried  sometimes  by  the  floods  upon  low  lands,  or  by  the  force  of  gravity 
from  higher  elevations.  A  sort  of  rich,  red  loam  is  frequent,  a  gravelly  soil  of  less 
productiveness  covers  large  tracts,  and  sticky  clays,  of  various  colors  and  appearances, 
are  often  found.  Quite  to  the  t023  of  high  hills  the  best  of  soil  is  found,  and  few  locali- 
ties are  so  sterile  as  to  be  unable  to  produce  grass  sufiicient  for  the  support  of  sheep  or 
stock.  Wheat,  oats,  barley,  corn,  flax  seed,  vegetables,  etc.,  produce  in  abundance. 
Potatoes  and  other  root  crops  are  of  superior  quality.  The  Umpqua  basin  is  the  only 
portion  of  Oregon  lying  west  of  the  Cascades,  except  Rogue  River  valley,  where  corn 
can  be  prodi^ced  in  quantity  and  quality  to  make  it  profitable.  The  season  of  1883 
was  a  phenominally  dry  one,  the  total  rainfall  at  Roseburg  being  but  22.48  inches, 
while  in  June,  July  and  August  but  .05  of  an  inch  fell.  Notwithstanding  this  fact 
the  grain  crop  of  this  region  was  a  large  one,  many  fields  yielding  from  thirty  to  thirty- 
five  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre  in  fields  as  large  as  100  acres. 

The  sheep  and  wool  of  the  Umpqua  valley  are  the  most  celebrated  of  Oregon,  and 
Umpqua  fleeces  command  the  highest  price  in  the  San  Francisco  market  of  all  that  reach 
the  city  from  the  Pacific  coast.  It  was  several  years  after  the  settlement  of  Umpqua 
valley  before  sheep  were  introduced  in  considerable  number.    The  Apjilegates,  of  Ump- 


I 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  395 

qua,  were  the  first  to  enter  111)011  wool  growing,  and  from  the  Wocks  of  Charles  Applegate 
many  of  the  later  sheep  owners  obtained  their  start.  The  sheep  of  this  fiock 
were  without  pretentions  to  purity  of  blood,  were  a  hardy,  useful,  good  framed 
and  tolerably  well  wooled  lot,  shearing  about  four  pounds  of  medium  lengthed 
wool  to  the  fleece,  and  may  be  taken  as  a  fair  type  of  the  average  sheep. 
From  the  Willamette  valley  and  from  California  importations  were  made  at 
times,  varying  much  in  quality.  From  the  former  region  came  the  splendid  flock  of 
of  merinos  owned  by  T.  Smith,  a  very  prominent  and  successful  wool  grower  and  once 
president  of  the  State  Agricultural  Society.  The  improvement  of  sheep  engaged  more 
and  more  attention  as  time  passed.  Some  few  merino  rams  were  introduced  before 
1860,  but  in  that  year  came  Rockwell,  a  noted  importer,  breeder,  and  more  than  all, 
seller  of  stock  sheep.  His  coming  is  not  yet  forgotten  in  Douglas,  at  least  among  the 
sheep  men.  He  brought  a  flock  of  merino  rams  for  which  he  found  a  ready  sale  at 
prices  ranging  from  $300  to  $700.  Few  were  proof  against  his  persuasive  powers- 
Among  others,  mechanics,  men  who  had  not  an  ewe  to  their  names,  bought  his  $500 
rams.  It  was  an  astonishing  revelation  of  the  power  of  the  Yankee  tongue,  cultivated 
by  study  and  practice,  on  the  susceptible  western  imagination.  The  theme  of  sheep- 
raising  became  a  bucolic  poem  in  his  honeyed  mouth ;  merino  wool  and  moral  eleva- 
tion, heavy  fleeces  and  eternal  happiness  seemed  for  the  time  insuperably  connected, 
and  the  mesmeric  trance  of  the  listening  subject  generally  ended  by  his  finding  a  ram 
in  his  pasture,  and  his  note  for  $500  in  Rockwell's  pocket.  Some  of  these  sheef)  did 
good  service.  Those  purchasers  who  found  on  recovering  their  normal  condition  that 
they  had  no  use  for  their  rams,  sold  them  at  much  reduced  prices  to  those  who  had  ; 
and  although  many  of  these  sheep  died  during  the  first  or  second  year,  yet  they  left 
an  improved  progeny.  Since  that  time  the  most  notable  importation  of  merino  stock  has 
been  that  of  the  McLeod  flock,  by  Smith  and  Walton ;  but,  although  some  of  these 
sheep  were  fully  equal  to  the  Rockwell  lot,  the  Scotchmen,  not  having  the  financial 
dexterity  and  persuasive  power  of  the  Vermouter,  was  content  to  sell  them  at  one-tenth 
the  price.  The  prominence  liere  given  to  merino  stock  is  because  the  desire  for 
improvement  has  taken  this  direction.  Of  late  years  a  number  of  flocks  of  long-wool 
sheep,  especially  the  cotswold,  have  been  introduced  with  good  success,  though  the 
reputation  of  Umpqua  wool  still  rests  upon  its  splendid  merinos. 

Formerly,  Douglas  was  a  great  stock  county,  but  gradually  pastures  have  disap- 
peared before  the  plow,  and  cattle  have  given  way  to  grain  ;  still,  the  stock  interests  or 
the  county  are  considerable.  Durham  and  Devon  cattle  are  the  prevailing  breeds, 
though  a  few  Jerseys  have  recently  been  imported,  a  few  of  pure  blood  and  the  others 
crossed.  Cattle  thrive  best  when  fed  through  the  winter  season,  though  they  can  pick 
their  own  living  in  the  foothill  ranges.  The  excellent  winter  pasturage,  affording  gra.>*s 
for  the  cattle  at  a  season  when  the  stock  of  the  eastern  dairy  regions  are  living  upon 
hay  renders  the  Umpqua  valley  especially  adapted  to  dairying.  The  blood  of  draft 
horses  in  the  county  has  been  undergoing  a  process  of  improvement  for  a  number  of 
years  by  breeding  to  imported  Percheron  stallions. 

As  a  fruit  region,  the  Umpqua  valley  shares  with  the  Rogue  river  region  the  honor 
of  producing  the  finest  quality  and  greatest  abundance  of  Oregon  fruit.  Apjiles,  i)i'ars, 
plums,  cherries,  peachi's,  a]/ricots  and   gra]U's  gmw   in  profusion.  In  the  lino   of  small 


396  SOUTHEEN  OREGON. 

fruits,  especially  strawberries,  Douglas  county  rules  the  Portland  market.  The  first 
settlers  found  j^lums  and  raspberries  growing  wild  in  the  greatest  luxuriance,  and  time 
has  shown  how  well  the  soil  that  sustained  them  was  adapted  to  the  cultivated  varieties. 
Transportation  facilities  play  an  important  part  in  developing  the  natural  resources  of 
any  region.  Douglas  was,  until  four  years  ago,  but  poorly  provided  with  means  for 
sending  her  products  to  market.  She  now  is  better  situated  and  expects  soon  to  be  even 
more  favored.  The  route  to  the  sea,  by  the  way  of  Gardiner,  involves  hauling  by 
wagon  to  Scottsburg  and  transfer  to  steamer  at  that  point.  For  a  number  of  years^ 
Roseburg  was  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Oregon  &  California  railroad,  but  that  line 
has  been  extended  south,  and  now  passes  through  the  whole  length  of  the  county,  from 
north  to  south.  A  project  of  much  importance  is  well  advanced,  and  that  is  the  con- 
struction of  a  road  from  Roseburg  to  Coos  bay,  passing  by  way  of  the  Coquille  through 
the  heart  of  the  vast  timber  and  coal  regions  of  Douglas  and  Coos  counties.  The  con- 
struction of  a  railroad  line  to  some  harbor  on  the  coast,  accessible  to  deep  water  vessels, 
has  long  been  regarded  as  the  one  thing  needful  for  the  Umpqua  valley.  A  project 
to  build  such  a  line  to  Port  Orford  was  at  one  time  well  advanced.  After  a  number 
of  years  of  slow  progress,  the  Roseburg  and  Coos  bay  road  seems  now  in  a  fair  way  to 
early  become  an  accomplished  fact.  This  region  will  then  enjoy  a  short  and  cheap 
means  of  communication  with  the  sea,  with  all  the  palpable  advantages  of  such  a  facil- 
ity. The  poi3ulation,  products  and  general  wealth  and  prospects  of  Douglas  county 
will,  beyond  question,  be  largely  augmented  during  the  next  four  years. 


CHAPTER    XLVIIL 


SETTLEMENT  AND  ORGANIZATION  OF  DOUGLAS  COUNTY. 

Condition  of  this  Region  when  the  Provisional  Government  was  Organized -First  Knowledge  of  Douglas  Coun- 
ty—Sir  Francis  Drake  and  his  Pilot  Morera— Bartolome  Ferrelo  in  1543— Cape  Blanco  and  Rio  de  Aguilar— 
Legend  of  a  Spanish  Vessel  in  the  Umpqua— Disaster  of  Jedediah  S.  Smith -Fort  Umpqua  Built  by  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  First  Organization  of  Counties  in  this  Region — Early  Settlements— Towns  Founded 
Along  the  Umpqua  — Umpqua  County  Organized— Douglas  County  Organized— County  Seat  Contest— Ump- 
qua and  Douglas  Consolidated  — Subsequent  Events. 

At  the  time  when  the  few  American  settlers  who  had  gathered  on  this  far  western 
frontier,  knowing  not  yet  to  whom  this  fair  country  belonged,  and  feeling  the  absolute 
need  of  some  form  of  government  for  the  protection  of  society,  for  united  defense  in 
case  of  an  attack  by  the  aborigines,  and  for  all  those  purposes  for  which  governing 
authority  is  necessary  even  in  such  a  primitive  state  of  society,  organized  the  Pro- 
visional Government  of  Oregon,  there  were  then  no  American  settlers  living  within 
the  limits  of  the  present  county  of  Douglas.  The  only  representatives  of  the  Caucasian 
race  living  south  of  the  Calapooia  mountains,  were  the  few  white  em^iloyees  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  stationed  at  Fort  Umpqua,  just  opposite  the  mouth  of  Elk 
creek,  and  the  members  of  trap])ing  parties  belonging  to  that  great  corporation,  trap- 
ping along  the  streams  of  that  region  and  Northern  California.  The  fertile  valleys 
which  are  now  the  abode  of  civilization,  whose  surrounding  hills  echo  the  ringing- 
invitation  of  the  church  bell,  where  the  school  house  door  stands  open  and  the  smoke 
curls  upward  like  an  incense  to  heaven  from  the  chimney-tops  of  a  thousand  happy 
homes,  were  then  occupied  by  a  race  of  savages.  The  fertile  fields  which  now  reward 
the  husbandman's  toil  with  bountiful  harvests  of  grain,  knew  not  the  uses  of  the  plow; 
seed  time  and  harvest  came  and  went  unheeded.  Nature  had  dealt  lavishly  with  this 
fair  land,  and  upon  her  bounteous  gifts  these  simple  natives  depended  for  their  suste- 
nance. Their  food  was  the  wild  game  of  the  forest,  roots,  grass  seeds,  nuts,  berries,  wild 
fruits  and  fish.  They  were  children  of  nature,  and  nature  had  to  provide  for  their 
wants  unaided.  The  extent  of  their  own  providence  consisted  of  laying  in  a  store  of 
each  thing  in  its  season,  to  be  used  when  nature  was  resting  from  her  labor  and  recu- 
perating her  energies  for  another  effort.  This  much  had  they  learned  from  sad  experi- 
ence, but  little  more.  Forty  years  have  wrought  a  mighty  change,  liow  great  the 
following  pages  fully  show.  The  Indian  has  disappeared  before  the  irresistible  advance 
of  a  superior  race  ;  the  fittest  has  survived  ;  the  l&sser  civilization  has  vanished.  It  is 
all  in  accordance  witli  that  great  rule  of  evolution  and  steady  developnient  towards 
higher  and  better  forms  by  which  the  whole  universe  is  governed  ;  and  no  one,  seeing 
the  great  results  accomplished,  can  fail  to  say  that  it  is  best.  Even  the  few  survivors 
of  the  lower  race,  gazing  upon  the   blossoming  fields  which   once  belonged   to  their 


398  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

ignorant  ancestors,  though  the  iron  enters  their  soul  and  they  mourn  the  decadence  of 
their  people,  sadly  admit  that  the  result  was  inevitable  and  was  so  ordained  by  the 
Great  Spirit. 

There  is  much  uncertainty  as  to  the  knowledge  of  the  Oregon  coast  possessed  by 
the  early  Spanish  explorers.  From  their  rejiorts  it  seems  that  in  nearly  every  instance 
when,  indeed,  they  reached  as  high  a  latitude  at  all,  they  remained  out  of  sight  of 
laud  from  Cape  Mendocino  to  Vancouver  island.  It  thus  happened  that  the  extreme 
northern  coast  was  explored  and  its  details  marked  upon  the  majis  with  approximate 
correctness  long  before  the  character  of  the  coast  line  of  Oregon  was  uixlerstood,  and 
before  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  was  discovered  Spain  and  England  were  involved  in 
a  quarrel  at  Nootka,  on  the  Island  of  Vancouver,  many  leagues  further  north. 

It  is  possible  that  Douglas  county  contains  the  soil  ui^on  which  rested  the  first 
Caucasian  foot  that  ever  was  set  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  United  States.  In  1578, 
Sir  Francis  Drake,  that  great  English  freebooter  and  scourge  of  the  Spanish  com- 
merce, who  was  knighted  by  his  queen  for  being  the  most  successful  pirate  of  his  time, 
ravaged  the  Pacific  colonies  of  Spain  and  plundered  and  burned  her  ships.  Accord- 
ing to  Spanish  accounts,  though  English  narratives  of  his  adventures  are  silent  on  the 
subject,  Drake  made  his  first  landing  on  the  northern  coast  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Ump- 
qua.  Here  he  entered  a  "  poor  harbor"  and  put  ashore  his  Spanish  pilot,  Morera, 
leaving  him  among  savages  who  had  never  before  soen  nor  heard  of  a  white  man,  to 
perish  at  their  hands  or  by  starvation  or  exposure  while  making  his  way  through 
3,000  miles  of  unknown  wilderness  to  Mexico.  It  was  an  act  to  be  expected  of  such 
a  reckless  sea  rover.  Morera  seems  to  have  accomplished  this  wonderful  journey, 
since  from  him  only  could  the  account  have  come,  provided  the  whole  story  is  not  an 
invention  of  early  Spanish  historians,  whose  opinion  of  Drake  was  little  better  than  oi 
the  father  of  all  evil  himself 

Though  Drake  was  the  first  to  )nake  a  lauding  on  the  coast,  he  was  not  the  first  to 
see  it  from  the  deck  of  a  vessel.  In  1543,  Bartolome  Ferrelo,  in  command  of  two 
vessels  dispatched  by  the  Mexican  Viceroy,  coasted  as  far  north  as  lattitude  43°  or  44°, 
though  no  effort  was  made  to  land  or  to  explore  the  details  of  the  coast.  In  1603, 
Ensign  Martin  de  Aguilar,  in  command  of  a  small  Spanish  fragata,  exjjlored  the  coast 
of  this  region.  Torquemada,  in  his  history  of  this  voyage,  says:  "  On  the  nineteenth 
of  January,  the  pilot,  Antonio  Flores,  found  that  they  were  in  the  latitude  of  43  degrees, 
where  the  land  formed  a  cape  or  point,  which  was  named  Cape  Blanco.  From  that 
point  the  coast  begins  to  turn  to  the  northwest ;  and  near  it  was  discovered  a  rapid  and 
abundant  river,  with  ash  trees,  willows,  brambles  and  other  trees  of  Castile  on  its  banks, 
which  they  endeavored  to  enter,  but  could  not  from  the  force  of  the  current."  In 
lattitude  42°  52'  is  Cape  Orford,  so  named  by  Vancouver.  Cape  Arago,  called  Greg- 
ory by  Captain  Cook,  lies  m  latitude  43°  23',  and  the  cape  named  Blanco  may  have 
been  Orford  or  Arago.  The  river  was  probably  the  Umpqua,  though  it  is  within 
the  limits  of  possibility  that  Kogue  river  is  the  one  referred  to.  It  would  seem,  how- 
ever, that  they  passed  Cape  Blanco  and  continued  up  the  coast  some  distance,  else  they 
could  not  have  known  that  it  turned  to  the  northwest,  and  came  upon  the  Umjxiua. 
The  discovery  of  this  river  created  considerable  interest  in  Spainaud  led  to  some  pecu- 
liar geographical  speculations.      The  Colorado  river  had  been  explored  many  miles 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  399 

nortlnvard,  and  tliis  led  to  the  idea  that  these  two  great  rivers  united  at  some  indefinite 
point  in  the  interior  transforming,  California  into  an  island.  It  was  so  indicated  on 
many  maps  of  the  seventeenth  century,  while  others,  even  as  late  as  the  discovery  of 
the  Columbia,  had  marked  upon  them  a  large  river  flowing  from  a  vast  distance  in  the 
interior  and  entering  the  ocean  about  latitude  43°,  which  was  called  Aguilar's  river. 

The  papers  of  Southern  Oregon  have  several  times  published  a  statement  to  the 
effect  that  Spanish  history  records  the  discovery  and  christening  of  the  Umpqua  as 
having  occurred  in  1732.  The  substance  of  the  story  is,  that  a  Spanish  vessel  became 
disabled  by  severe  weather  at  sea  and  sought  for  a  port  on  the  coast  where  it  could 
enter  and  make  needed  repairs.  The  mouth  of  the  Umpqua  was  observed,  and  this  the 
vessel  entered,  ascending  to  near  the  site  of  Scottsburg,  where  the  anchor  was  made  fast 
and  the  work  of  repairing  began.  Many  large  trees  were  cut  down,  and  it  is  asserted 
that  their  decayed  stumps  were  observed  by  the  first  settlers,  who  were  informed  by  the 
Indians  that  many  long  years  ago  a  vessel  came  up  the  river  and  the  people  on  board 
had  beards  and  white  faces,  and  they  cut  down  these  trees.  As  the  stumps  at  that 
time  were  upwards  of  a  hundred  years  old,  they  must  have  been  in  a  tolerably  good 
state  of  preservation  to  have  attracted  the  attention  of  the  settlers.  The  story  goes  on 
to  say  that  the  Indians  called  the  stream  Uii-m,  meaning  river,  and  from  this  sprung 
the  jwesent  name. 

Careful  investigation  fails  to  reveal  any  authority  for  the  above  story,  while  on  the 
contrary  there  are  many  evidences,  of  a  negative  character  to  be  sure,  which  throw  dis- 
credit upon  it.  For  many  years  before  and  after  the  date  mentioned  no  explorations 
of  the  coast  were  made  by  Spanish  vessels  or  those  of  any  other  nation;  yet  it  is  possible 
that  one  of  the  Spanish  merchantmen  from  the  East  Indias,  which  usually  first  reached 
the  coast  south  of  Cape  Mendocino,  may  have  been  blown  out  of  her  course  and  entered 
the  Umpqua  in  distress,  as  stated.  If  this  had  been  the  case,  however,  and  the  river 
named  as  related,  then  Spanish  charts  Avould  thereafter  have  had  indicated  upon  them 
the  Umpqua  river ;  but  such  was  not  the  case,  for  the  only  river  marked  in  this  region 
on  Spanish  maps  was  the  one  discovered  in  1603,  and  invariably  named  Rio  de  Aguilar. 
It  is  difiicult  to  understand  upon  what  authority  this  story  of  the  discovery  and  naming 
of  the  Umpqua  rests,  and  it  may  well  be  doubted  until  better  evidence  is  produced. 

From  that  time  until  1827,  the  Umpqua  appears  to  have  remained  unknown. 
The  great  Northwest  Company  and  Hudson's  Bay  Company  oocupied  the  disputed 
territory  of  Oregon  many  years  before  they  explored  Southern  Oregon.  Their  busi- 
ness lay  to  the  east,  and  north  of  the  Columbia.  In  1827,  Jedcdiaii  S.  Smith,  a  partner 
in  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  entered  Oregon  from  California  at  the  head  of 
a  party  of  American  trappers.  The  circumstances  attending  this  expedition  have  been 
given  at  length  on  pages  118  to  121.  The  scene  of  Smith's  disaster  is  located  variously 
as  on  Umpqua  river  near  the  coast,  on  Smith  river,  which  serves  in  its  title  to  perpet- 
uate the  event,  and  on  various  streams  further  south.  Just  where  it  occurred  is  uncer- 
tain. From  that  time  trapping  parties  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  roamed 
through  this  region  and  set  their  traps  on  its  numerous  streams.  So  great  was  the 
trade  which  sprung  up  with  the  natives  that  the  great  company  established  a  fort  oii 
the  Umpqua  a  few  years  later,  which  served  for  many  years  as  the  head(]uarters  for 
the  business  in  this  region.     The  post  was  called  Fort  Umpipia,  and  stood  on  the  l)ank 


400  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

opposite  the  mouth  of  Elk  creek.  This  was  the  outpost  of  civilization  in  Southern 
Oregon.  This  post  was  finally  abandoned  in  1862  and  the  site  is  now  an  immense  grain 
field.  Nothing  remains  to  speak  of  former  days  but  an  aged  apple  tree,  which  was 
bearing  fruit  when  the  first  settlers  arrived. 

The  first  division  of  Oregon  into  districts  for  purposes  of  election  and  local  gov- 
ernoient,  was  made  July  5,  18-43.  At  that  time  all  of  Oregon  south  of  Yamhill  river 
and  west  of  the  Willamette,  and  a  supposed  line  running  due  south  from  its  head- 
waters to  the  California  boundary,  was  designated  Yamhill  district.  All  south  of 
the  Anchiyoke  and  east  of  the  Willamette  and  the  supposed  line  as  far  as  the 
Rocky  mountains,  was  called  Champooick  district.  By  this  arrangement  Douglas 
county  was  cut  into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  The  population  of  these  two  dis- 
tricts was  confined  to  the  region  north  of  the  Calapooia  mountains,  all  south  of 
the  divide,  as  well  as  that  vast  stretch  of  unoccupied  and  almost  unknown  country  lying 
between  the  Cascade  and  Rocky  mountains,  was  tacked  on  to  these  districts  simply  be- 
cause the  boundaries  of  the  territory  comprehended  them,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
include  them  within  the  limits  of  some  district.  Extensive  as  they  were,  and  impor- 
tant as  they  subsequently  became,  they  were  then  of  no  political  consequence  whatever, 
and  it  mattered  little  to  what  district  they  belonged  or  how  they  were  designated. 

On  the  nineteenth  of  December,  1845,  the  territory  was  again  subdivided. 
Southern  Oregon  was  again  cut  into  two  parts  by  the  continuation  of  a  line  south  from 
the  Willamette,  the  western  portion,  or  Yamhill  district  being  bounded  north  by 
Tuality  river  and  Champoeg  district  by  the  Clackamas.  Three  days  later  a  statute 
was  passed  changing  the  name  district  to  county.  On  the  same  day  the  county  of  Polk 
was  created  from  Yamhill,  its  northern  boundary  being  nearly  the  same  as  at  present 
and  its  southern  limit  the  California  line.  This  was  done  because  of  the  increased 
number  of  settlers  in  the  upper  eud  of  Willamette  valley.  Two  years  later  the  popu- 
lation of  that  section  had  so  increased  that  two  new  counties  were  created.  The  act  of 
December  23,  1847,  confined  Polk  to  its  present  limits,  and  erected  all  south  of  Polk 
and  west  of  the  middle  fork  of  the  Willamette  and  its  production  to  the  California  line, 
into  a  new  county  called  Benton.  Five  days  later  Champoeg  county,  the  name  of 
which  had  been  changed  to  Marion,  was  curtailed,  and  all  south  of  the  Santiam  and 
east  of  Benton  county,  clear  to  the  summit  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  was  made  the 
county  of  Linn.  In  1846  a  party  of  fifteen  men  from  the  Willamette  valley  explored 
the  Umpqua  region,  commanded  by  Major  Thorp.  Among  them  was  Philip  Peters, 
who  settled  on  Deer  creek  in  1851,  where  he  still  resides.  Xo  immediate  settlements 
followed  this  exploring  tour. 

This  was  the  condition  of  Douglas  county  when  it  was  first  invaded  by  citizens  of 
the  United  States  in  search  of  a  home  ;  divided  in  its  allegiance  between  the  counties 
of  Linn  and  Benton,  named  in  honor  of  those  two  sturdy  giants  of  the  United  States 
senate  who  had  fought  so  long,  so  earnestly  and  so  successfully  for  the  rights  of  our 
country  in  Oregon,  and  occupied  only  by  the  representatives  of  that  great  English  cor- 
poration which  had  rendered  the  battle  necessary.  It  was  in  June,  1846,  that  the 
exjilorers  of  the  southern  emigrant  route  [see  pages  148  and  304]  passed  through  the 
county,  but  it  was  not  until  the  spring  of  184S  that  the  leader  of  that  party,  Captain 


■*5^^*l>- 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  401 

Levi  Scott,  left  his  former  liome  in  the  Willamette  and  settled  in  Si-ott's  valley,  on  Elk- 
creek,  not  many  miles  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  jwst.  At  the  same  time  his 
two  sons,  William  and  John,  settled  near  by  in  Yoncalla  valley,  as  did  also  Robert  and 
Thomas  Cowan.  The  next  year  Jesse  Applegate,  J.  T.  Cooper,  John  Long  and  — 
Jeffery  settled  in  the  same  neighborhood.  Prior  to  all  these  settlements  was  that  of 
Warren  N.  Goodell,  who  located  a  donation  claim  on  the  site  of  the  present  town  of 
Drain,  in  the  year  1847. 

In  1850  travel  to  and  from  the  California  mines  increased,  and  pack  trains  with 
loads  of  goods  began  to  be  seen  on  the  trails.  The  number  of  settlers  materially 
increased,  especially  in  the  upper  end  of  the  county,  the  majority  of  the  newcomer.s 
being  from  the  Willamette  valley.  Captain  Scott  went  down  the  Umpqua  and  laid  out 
the  town  of  Scottsburg,  as  a  supplying  point  for  the  upper  country. 

There  were  accessions  also  from  the  south,  by  way  of  the  sea  from  San  Francisco- 
The  map  of  Fremont's  explorations,  which  was  the  one  upon  which  all  Americans 
relied  for  their  information  in  regard  to  Pacific  coast  geography,  indicated  the  Klamath 
as  issuing  from  Klamath  lake,  and  entering  the  ocean  in  the  vicinity  of  Rogue  river, 
the  two  streams  being  confounded  by  the  great  "Pathfinder."  The  excitement  about 
the  Trinity  mines  and  the  discovery  of  gold  on  Klamath  river  and  its  affluents,  coupled 
with  the  knowledge  gained  from  dear  experience  that  the  Klamath  was  not  navigable, 
led  a  number  of  men  to  look  still  further  north  to  the  Umpqua  as  being  a  river  which 
could  be  entered,  and  on  the  banks  of  which  could  be  founded  a  city  which  would  be 
a  base  of  supplies  for  the  mines  of  Northern  California.  These  men  organized  under 
the  name  of  Winchester,  Payne  &  Co.,  and  dispatched  the  schooner  Samuel  liobcrtf^ 
up  the  coast  in  command  of  Captain  Coffin,  the  expedition  being  in  charge  of  Peter 
Mackey.  They  passed  the  Klamath  and  came  to  the  mouth  of  Rogue  river,  and  sup- 
posing it  to  be  the  Umpqua,  Mackey  landed  with  two  of  his  party.  They  were  quickly 
surrounded  by  Indians,  wdio  evinced  a  hostile  intent.  The  men  endeavored  to  reach 
their  boats  with  the  purpose  of  returning  to  the  vessel,  but  the  savages  interposed, 
crowded  around  them  and  pulled  their  clothing,  buttons,  etc.,  in  an  exceedingly  impo- 
lite manner.  The  three  men  stood  back  to  back  in  the  center  of  the  crowd  of  savages, 
partially  defending  themselves  by  pushing  their  insulters  away  or  knocking  them  off 
with  their  revolvers,  not  daring  to  shoot  for  fear  of  the  consequences.  Seeing  their 
precarious  situation,  Captain  Coffin  moved  the  vessel  closer  in  shore  and  discharged  m 
cannon  loaded  with  nails,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  have  the  contents  cut  through  the 
trees  over  the  heads  of  the  savages.  The  noise  and  effect  were  so  novel  and  terrifying 
that  the  Indians  fled  in  a  imnic  to  the  seclusion  of  the  dense  forest.  The  men  then 
went  aboard,  and  the  schooner  continued  its  voyage  up  the  coa.st.  The  Umpijua  river 
was  reached  in  due  time  and  safely  entered.  This  was  the  first  American  vessel  to 
enter  the  Umpcjua,  and  ^wssibly  the  first  vessel  of  any  kind,  in  spite  of  the  traditions 
about  a  Spanish  ship  having  done  so  more  than  a  century  before. 

After  a  hasty  exploration  of  the  river,  the  party  returned  to  San  Francisco  with 
glowing  accounts  of  the  Umpqua,  and  its  adaptability  for  a  port  of  entry  for  goods, 
and  travel  to  the  mines  of  Northern  California.  Winchester,  Payne  ct  Co.  immedi- 
ately fitted  out  another  schooner,  the  Kate  Heath,  and  dispatched  it  to  the  Umpqua 
with  a  party  of  100  men,  lieaded    l>y  Wincliestor  himself,  and   containing   many  men 


402  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

who  have  since  been  closely  identified  with  the  development  of  Southern  Oregon, 
among  them  being  A.  C.  Gibbs,  later  governor  of  the  state.  The  object  of  the  expe- 
dition was  to  select  suitable  town  sites  at  favorable  points  for  the  transaction  of  business, 
to  have  them  laid  off  in  lots  which  were  to  be  divided  equally  among  the  members  of 
the  company,  and  to  ship  to  San  Francisco  timber  to  be  used  for  piling,  for  which  there 
was  then  an  urgent  demand.  The  Kate  Heath  sailed  in  September,  and  soon  entered 
the  mouth  of  the  Umpqua. 

As  they  crossed  the  bar  they  were  surprised  to  observe  the  wreck  of  a  vessel, 
which  had  but  recently  run  upon  the  sands.  This  was  the  Bostonian,  which  had  been 
dispatched  around  Cape  Horn  by  a  Boston  merchant  named  Gardiner.  The  merchan- 
dise with  which  the  vessel  was  loaded  was  under  the  charge  of  George  Snelling,  a 
nephew  of  Gardiner.  In  endeavoring  to  enter  the  river  the  Bostonian  lost  the  channel 
and  was  wrecked  upon  the  bar.  By  much  labor  the  crew  managed  to  save  the  bulk  of 
the  cargo,  and  this  was  taken  up  the  river  a  few  miles  and  sheltered  beneath  a  canvas 
covering  made  from  the  sails  of  the  stranded  ship.  The  place  thus  occupied  was 
named  Gardiner,  in  honor  of  the  owner  of  the  ship  and  goods,  and  on  the  same  spot 
now  stands  the  town  of  Gardiner. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  river,  on  the  north  bank,  Winchester,  Payne  &  Co.  laid 
out  their  first  town,  which  was  christened  Umpqua  City.  They  passed  up  the 
stream,  finding  the  shipwrecked  Yankees  in  camp  at  Gardiner.  At  the  mouth  of 
Smith  river  a  number  of  men  were  landed,  who  began  getting  out  piling  timber  to  be 
shipped  back  to  San  Francisco  upon  the  return  of  the  vessel.  The  others  continued  up 
the  river  to  Scottsburg,  where  they  found  Captain  Levi  Scott  already  in  possession  of  a 
town  site.  They  laid  out  a  town  adjoining  his  location  and  embracing*&.  tract  gener- 
ously donated  by  him  for  that  purpose.  This  was  the  portion  of  Scottsburg  called 
the  "  Lower  Town,"  which  succumbed  to  the  power  of  the  flood  in  the  winter  of 
1861-2,  and  is  now  a  sandy  waste.  A  number  of  the  jjarty  went  up  the  stream  to  Elk 
creek,  and  laid  out  the  town  of  Elkton,  while  Mr.  Winchester  secured  a  fine  location 
still  further  up  the  Umpqua,  where  he  founded  a  town  upon  which  he  bestowed  his 
own  name. 

Winchester  and'the  others  then  returned  to  the  mouth  of  Smith  river,  and  the 
schooner  was  loaded  with  piles  and  spars  for  her  return  voyage  to  San  Francisco. 
Meanwhile  harmony  had  not  prevailed  in  the  company.  A  misunderstanding  arose 
between  Mr.  Winchester  and  some  of  his  associates.  They  refused  to  sail  for  a  long 
time,  alleging  that  the  bar  was  too  rough  to  be  crossed  in  safety,  and  when  the  schooner 
finally  arrived  in  San  Francisco  with  her  cargo  the  time  of  her  contract  had  expired,  and 
Winchester,  Payne  &  Co.  became  bankrupt.  The  association  dispersed,  the  town  sites 
were  abandoned  and  the  great  project  came  to  an  inglorious  end.  The  subsequent 
history  of  Umpqua  City,  Gardiner,  Scottsburg,  Elkton  and  Winchester  will  be  found 
on  another  page. 

Mr.  A.  R.  Flint,  a  hale  and  hearty  old  gentleman  of  seventy-six  years,  a  sur- 
veyor by  profession  and  the  first  clerk  of  Douglas  county,  still  resides  in  Roseburg. 
He  thus  speaks  of  his  advent  into  the  Umpqua  region,  and  his  experiences  are  given 
as  an  example  of  the  many.  Mr.  Flint  says :  "  In  September,  1850,  I  came  to  Oreoon 
to  lay  out  the  town  of  Winchestei',  on  the  North  Umpqua  river.     While  there  I  learned 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  403 

of  the  passage  of  the  donation  homestead  act  for  ()reg(^n,  which  inchiced  me  eventu- 
all)^  to  take  a  claim  and  consider  Oregon  as  my  future  home.  I  returned  to  San  Fran- 
cisco in  the  spring  of  1851,  and  came  hack  with  my  family  in  the  first  steamer  that 
came  into  the  Umpqua  river.  From  the  steamer  we  took  an  oj^en  boat  to  Scottshurg. 
From  here  the  only  means  of  travel  was  on  horseback,  on  an  Indian  trail.  On  arriv- 
ing at  Winchester  we  found  John  Aiken  and  family,  and  Thomas  Smith,  who  together 
owned  the  ferry  at  that  place.  We  were  informed  by  them  that  there  was  not  a  house 
south  of  that  place  until  we  reached  Sacramento  valley  in  California.  [A  mistake,  for 
Yreka  and  Scott  river  mines  were  then  in  full  blast.]  We  located  and  built  a  small 
house  there.  While  at  Winchester  I  went  out  to  see  the  location  on  which  Roseburg 
is  now  situated.  At  that  time  there  was  an  Indian  rancheria  near  the  river,  on  what 
is  now  the  western  part  of  the  city  of  Roseburg.  Mrs.  Flint  did  not  at  that  time  have 
courage  enough  to  locate  among  the  Indians,  so  we  abandoned  the  idea  of  taking  for 
our  future  home  the  location  wdiich  we  have  since  made  our  home  for  the  past  twenty- 
five  years." 

The  increase  of  settlements  along  the  Umpqua  in  18.30  letl  to  the  establishment 
of  a  county  government  for  their  benefit  the  following  winter.  The  county  seat  of 
Linn  was  fixed  at  Albany,  and  that  of  Benton  at  Marysville,  subsequently  called 
Corvallis.  These  two  counties  were  circumscribed  to  nearly  their  pre.sent  limits  on  the 
south,  while  the  region  between  them  and  California  was  apportioned  between  two  new 
counties  called  Umpqua  and  Lane,  the  latter  named  in  honor  of  the  first  governor, 
whose  name  appears  so  often  in  this  volume.  Umpqua  county's  boundary  line  began 
on  the  coast  at  the  southwest  corner  of  Benton,  and  ran  east  to  the  dividing  ridge  of 
the  Calapooia  mountains,  followed  the  ritige  to  Calapooia  creek  and  down  that  stream 
to  its  mouth,  and  thence  west  to  the  Pacific.  All  the  remainder  of  Southern  Oregon 
south  of  Benton  and  Linn  belonged  to  the  county  of  Lane. 

In  April,  1851,  the  governor  issued  a  proclamation  designating  Jesse  Applegate's 
house  in  Yoncalla  valley.  Resin  Reed's,  Aikin's  at  Umpqua  Ferry,  and  Scottsville 
(Scottsburg),  as  polling  places  for  the  election  to  select  officers  for  the  new  county. 
The  election  was  held  on  the  second  of  June,  and  resulted  in  the  choice  of  the  following 
officers  :  J.  W.  Drew,  representative;  J.  W.  Huntington,  clerk  ;  H.  Jacquett,  shei-iff; 
A.  German,  treasurer;  A.  Pierce,  assessor;  B.  J.  Grnbbe,  J.  N.  Hull  and  William 
Golden,  county  commissioners.  The  total  vote  was  seventy-eight.  A.  R.  Flint  received 
a  large  number  of  votes  for  representative,  and  Daniel  Wells  and  E.  R.  Fisk  were  well 
supported  for  clei'k. 

The  condition  of  that  portion  of  the  j)resent  county  of  Douglas  is  well  tlescribt'd  in 
tlie  following  extract  from  a  letter  to  the  Slalr.<in<iii,  dated  at  j\It.  Yoncalla,  July  4,  18.')!. 
The  correspondent  says : 

"Our  county  [Umpqua]  is  organized,  the  machinery  is  set  u[i,  and  it  will  soon 
start.  We  need  internal  improvements  very  much,  which  it  is  supjiosed  the  new 
machinery  will  supply,  but  we  ought  not  to  expect  too  much.  Tlie  roads  leading  to 
Scottsburg  are  as  yet  but  trails  and  travelers'  descriptions  of  them  arc  prefaced  with 
horrid  oaths  and  violent  imprecation.  Elkton  has  as  yet  but  a  political  existence,  but 
is  named  as  the  site  of  the  county  seat.  It  is  opposite  Fort  Umpqua,  on  the  river. 
Claims  are  taken  from  here  to  the  month  of  the  rivir.     Tliose  east  of  Scottsl)urg  ti'am 


404  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

with  luxuriant  grass,  those  below  are  overhung  with  luxuriant  speculation  of  their 
future.  As  far  up  as  Winchester  claims  are  being  improved.  Twelve  months  ago,  but 
two  or  three  claims  had  been  taken  on  the  river ;  now  they  are  all  taken.  Seottsburg  or 
Myrtle  City,  is  at  the  head  of  navigation,  but  below  it  are  many  prospective  towns, 
beautifully  pictured  on  paper.  There  are  two  ferries  on  the  Umpqua,  and  a  road  from 
Winchester  to  Seottsburg.  Winchester  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Umpqua  river  about 
five  miles  above  the  forks,  and  is  located  upon  favorable  ground,  thickly  timbered. 
General  Lane's  claim  adjoins  it  on  the  south.  The  city  plot  has  been  laid  out  in  lots 
and  is  fast  becoming  a  mart  of  trade.  The  main  road  to  the  Canyon  passes  through 
Winchester.  Major  Kearney  is  now  exploring  for  a  road  east  of  this,  and  Jesse  Apple- 
gate  and  Levi  Scott  are  with  him  as  guides.  They  are  now  near  Table  Rock  on  Rogue 
river." 

The  year  1851,  saw  a  marked  change  in  the  condition  of  this  region.  Many 
families  came  down  from  the  Willamette  valley  while  numerous  emigrants  came  in 
direct  from  the  east.  Nearly  every  little  valley  received  from  one  to  half  a  dozen  set- 
tlements. From  the  Calapooias  to  Rogue  river  could  be  seen  every  few  miles  the 
smoke  ascending  from  the  clay  chimney  of  some  pioneer's  log  cabin.  The  population 
became  so  numerous  that  a  successful  effort  was  made  the  next  winter  to  secure  a  sep- 
arate county  government  for  the  region  of  the  Upper  Umpqua,  and  Myrtle,  Cow  and 
Canyon  creeks.  By  the  act  of  January  6,  1852,  Lane  county  was  deprived  of  all  its 
territory  south  of  its  jiresent  limits,  by  the  creation  of  Douglas  county,  a  concurrent 
act,  though  not  passed  until  the  twelfth,  establishing  Jackson  county  to  embrace  all 
south  of  Douglas  and  Umj^qua  counties. 

As  first  created  Douglas  county's  bouudaries  were  as  follows :  Commencing  at  the 
mouth  of  Calapooia  creek  ;  thence  following  said  creek  up  its  main  fork  to  its  source  ; 
thence  due  east  to  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  mountains ;  thence  running  due  south  to 
the  summit  of  the  dividing  ridge  separating  the  waters  of  Rogue  river  from  the  waters 
of  the  Umpqua ;  thence  westerly  along  the  summit  of  said  ridge  to  the  summit  of  the 
Coast  Range  of  mountains  separating  the  waters  of  Coquille  and  Cones  (Coos)  rivers 
from  the  Umpqua;  thence  northerly  along  the  summit  of  said  Coast  Range  to  a  point 
where  the  south  line  of  Umpqua  county  crosses  said  range ;  thence  due  east  along  the 
south  line  of  Umpqua  county  to  the  point  of  beginning.  Election  precincts  were 
designated  at  Resin  Reed's  in  Winchester,  at  Knott's  in  the  Canyon,  and  at  Roberts'  in 
South  Umpqua  valley.  By  the  act  of  the  seventeenth  of  the  same  month  the  county 
seat  was  located  at  the  town  of  Winchester. 

A  clerk  and  a  temporary  board  of  county  commissioners  were  appointed  for  the 
purpose  of  setting  the  county  machinery  in  motion.  The  first  meeting  of  the  board  of 
county  commissioners  was  held  at  Winchester  on  the  fourth  day  of  April,  1852.  On 
this  occasion  F.  R.  Hill  called  the  body  to  order  and  its  organization  was  effected. 
Lots  were  drawn  to  determine  the  length  of  term,  and  J.  E.  Danford  drew  the  shorter 
term,  his  ofiicial  life  expiring  after  the  election  to  be  held  two  months  later,  William  F. 
Perry's  ending  in  the  following  year  and  Thomas  Smith's  in  1854.  The  first  days' 
business  of  the  board  consisted  mainly  in  granting  licenses  for  the  keeping  of  "  groceries  " 
— some  four  of  which  were  authorized  to  transact  business  at  an  average  rate  of  $50  per 
year.     F.  R.  Hill  was  appointed  sheriff  of  Douglas  county,  to  hold  ofiice  until  the  next 


■*«-. 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  405 

general  election.  On  the  following  day  the  county  was  divided  into  precincts,  six  in 
number,  known  as  Calapooya,  Winchester,  Deer  Creek,  Roseburg,  Looking-glass, 
Myrtle  Creek,  and  Canyonville,  precincts.  These  precincts  were  empowered  to  clioose 
one  justice  of  the  peace  and  one  constable,  with  the  exception  of  the  last  named  which 
was  allowed  two.  In  the  interim  the  following  named  gentlemen  were  appointed  to  the 
justice-ships'.     Calapooya,  C.Barrett;  Winchester,  Henry  Evans;  Deer  Creek,  W.  B. 

Skinner ;   Looking-glass,    H.   D.  Bryant ;   Myrtle  Creek,  Burnett ;  Canyonville. 

Messrs.  Lockhart  and  Johnson.  The  minutes  are  subscribed  by  A.  R.  Flint,  first 
clerk  of  the  county  of  Douglas.  The  commissioners  as  well  as  the  probate  court  met 
in  a  room  over  William  J.  Martin's  store,  in  Winchester ;  and  the  district  court,  at  its 
special  terms  was  held  in  a  room  over  J.  E.  Walton's  store  in  the  same  village.  The 
rental  paid  for  each  room  was  $3,  per  day  while  the  same  was  in  use. 

The  election  held  the  ensuing  June  for  choosing  a  full  set  of  county  officers,  was 
warmly  contested,  there  being  several  candidates  for  every  oflSce  but  that  of  clerk. 
Douglas  and  Umpqua  were  included  in  one  council  district  and  elected  Captain  Levi 
Scott  to  the  council,  his  opponents  being  Felix  Scott  and  J.  W.  Drew.  The  candidates 
for  the  other  officers  were  as  follows,  the  one  first  named  being  elected ;  representative, 
E.  J.  Curtis  and  W.  J.  Martin  ;  probate  judge,  S.  Fitzhue,  H.  C.  Hale,  S.  B.  Briggs, 
G.  S.  Chapin  and  S.  Gardiner;  clerk,  A.  R.Flint;  sheriff,  F.  R.  Hill,  D.  P.  Bai'nes 
and  F.  M.  Hill ;  (error  in  ballots)  treasurer,  George  Hannan,  G.  S.  Chapin  and  Benja- 
min Grubbe ;  assessor,  C  W.  Smith  and  Jesse  Clayton ;  coroner,  C.  Grover  and  W.  K. 
Kilborn ;  county  commissioners,  J.  C.  Danford,  W.  T.  Perry,  Thomas  Smith,  William 
Riddle,  C.  C.  Reed,  and  W.  H.  Riddle.  The  total  vote  was  163.  At  the  county  elec- 
tion held  a  year  later  the  number  of  ballots  cast  was  increased  to  30G,  or  nearly  double 

Though  Winchester  was  designated  as  the  county  seat  and  was  the  largest  settle- 
ment within  the  limits  of  the  county,  it  had  a  strong  rival  almost  from  the  first.  Four 
miles  further  up  the  Umpqua  Aaron  Rose  had  laid  out  the  town  of  Roseburg,  and 
being  a  wide-awake,  energetic  man,  he  began  at  once  to  secure  for  his  embryo  city  the 
honors  and  advantages  which  accrue  to  a  town  possessing  the  distinction  of  being  a 
county  seat.  Aided  by  the  rapid  increase  of  settlements  to  the  south  of  Roseburg, 
Mr.  Rose  succeeded  finally  in  securing  the  passage  of  the  act  of  December  23,  1853, 
providing  for  the  submission  of  the  question  of  a  permanent  location  of  the  county 
seat  to  be  held  on  the  second  Monday  in  March,  1854.  When  the  day  of  battle 
arrived,  Mr.  Rose  invited  the  settlers  of  Looking-glass  valley,  who  aspired  to  the  pos- 
session of  the  coveted  honor,  to  accept  of  his  hospitalities.  The  enjoyment  of  his 
generosity  so  worked  upon  ihe  feelings  of  the  guests  that  they  went  in  a  body  to  the 
polls  and  voted  in  favor  of  Roseburg.  The  loss  of  the  county  seat  was  a  sad  blow  to 
Winchester,  which  was  already  on  the  rapid  decline  as  a  business  point,  and  a  few 
years  later  the  whole  town  was  moved  bodily  to  Roseburg,  including  the  L'.  S.  land 
office,  which  had  been  established  there. 

In  Umpqua  county  the  county  seat  was  not  definitely  located  for  several  years. 
Court  was  held  sometimes  in  Elkton  and  at  other  times  in  Scottsburg.  In  1854 
James  F.  Levins  surveyed  a  town  site  at  Elkton,  consisting  of  100  acres,  which  he 
donated  to  the  county  for  a  county  seat,  and  on  the  thirtieth  of  the  next  January  au 
act  was  passed  by  the  legislature  locating  the  seat   of  justice  at    that   place.      Coos 


406  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

county  was  created  by  the  act  of  December  22,  1853,  out  of  the  counties  of  Umpqua 
and  Jackson,  embracing  all  the  land  lying  between  the  Coast  Eange  and  the  ocean, 
and  extending  from  a  line  eight  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Umpqua  to  the  Cali- 
fornia boundary.  At  the  general  election  of  1855,  the  people  of  Douglas  county 
voted  unfavorably  upon  a  proposition  submitted  by  the  act  of  the  twentieth  of  the 
previous  January,  to  annex  the  northern  end  of  the  county  to  Umpqua.  By  the  act 
of  December  18,  1856,  Camas  Prairie  was  detached  from  Coos  county  and  annexed  to 
Douglas. 

By  1862  Umpqua  county  had  seriously  retrograded.  Scottsburg  had  lost  its 
trade  with  the  mines,  and  had  faded  away  to  a  village,  while  Elkton  had  not  succeeded 
in  taking  the  place  of  the  deposed  metropolis.  To  maintain  a  county  government  was 
too  burdensome,  and  the  difficulty  was  relieved  by  the  act  of  October  16,  1862,  con- 
solidating Umpqua  and  Douglas  counties,  with  the  county  seat  at  Roseburg.  An 
amendment  to  the  consolidation  act  was  passed  October  21,  1864,  definitely  fixing  the 
boundary  line  of  Douglas  county  as  follows  :  "  Commencing  at  the  mouth  of  the  Siu- 
slaw,  on  the  south  bank ;  thence  following  up  the  south  bank  of  said  stream,  to  a 
point  fifteen  miles  west  of  the  main  traveled  road  known  as  the  Applegate  road  ; 
thence  southerly  to  the  summit  of  the  California  [Calaj^ooia]  mountains ;  thence  east- 
ward along  the  summit  of  said  mountains  to  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  range ;  thence 
southerly  along  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  range  to  the  former  corner  of  Douglas 
county  ;  thence  continuing  southerly  along  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  range  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  headwaters  of  the  South  Umpqua  and  the 
waters  of  Rogue  river  ;  thence  westei'ly  along  the  summit  of  said  ridge  to  the  summit 
of  the  Coast  Range  of  mountains,  separating  the  waters  of  Coquille  and  Coos  rivers 
from  the  Umpqua ;  thence  in  a  straight  line  to  the  southwest  corner  of  township  2() 
south,  range  9  west,  of  the  Willamette  meridian  ;  thence  due  north  to  the  summit  or 
divide  between  the  waters  of  the  Umpqua  river  and  thoserunning  to  the  ocean  ;  thence 
northerly  or  northwesterly  along  side  summit  or  divide  to  a  point  due  west  of  Loon 
lake,  at  the  head  of  what  is  called  Mill  creek;  thence  in  a  direct  line  westerly  to  the 
coast  at  the  mouth  of  Ten  Mile  creek  ;  thence  northerly  along  the  coast  to  the  place 
of  beginning." 

The  next  great  local  question  in  Douglas  county  was  that  of  a  division  again 
into  two  distinct  counties.  The  tbwn  of  Oakland  had  grown  up  in  the  northern  end 
of  the  county,  and,  backed  by  the  settlers  for  miles  around,  who  would  find  a  county 
seat  more  convenient  when  located  at  Oakland  than  at  Roseburg,  made  a  strong  effort 
to  secure  the  coveted  prize  by  the  division  of  the  county.  An  act  was  i^assed  by  the 
legislature  on  the  sixteenth  of  October,  1868,  providing  for  a  special  ballot  on  that 
subject  at  the  geuei-al  election  to  be  held  on  the  third  of  the  next  month.  All  north 
of  the  main  fork  of  the  Umpqua  and  a  line  running  from  the  junction  of  that  stream 
with  the  South  Umpqua  due  west  to  the  line  of  Coos  county,  was  to  be  called  Umpqua 
county,  with  Oakland  as  the  county  seat.  At  the  same  time  the  people  of  the 
proposed  new  county  were  to  elect  county  officers,  who  should  enter  upon  the  discharge 
of  their  duties  in  case  the  vote  of  the  whole  county  favored  the  division.  The  majority 
of  the  voters  decided  that  such  division  was  unnecessary,  and  Douglas  county  escaped 
the  threatened  division.     On  the  twenty-first  of  October  an  act  was  passed  submitting 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  4,17 

the  question  of  the  location  of  the  count}-  seat  in  thai  portiun  of  the  county  wliic-Ii 
would  still  bear  the  name  of  Douglas,  and  Eoseburg,  jMyrtle  Creek,  Canvonville  and 
Kound  Prairie  were  designated  as  candidates.  This  act  was  not  to  take  effect  if  the 
vote  of  the  county  was  unfavorable  to  the  proposed  division,  and  since  that  ])roposi- 
tion  was  voted  down  the  question  of  a  new  county  seat  disappeared  with  it. 

By  the  act  of  October  19,  1878,  the  boundaries  between  Coos  and  Douglas  counties 
were  more  closely  defined,  and  again  it  was  found  necessary  to  designate  these  with  still 
more  minuteness  by  the  act  of  October  16,  1882.  The  exact  boundaries  given  by  the 
statute  are  as  follows  :  Beginning  on  the  shore  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  at  the  township  line 
between  townships  22  south  and  23  south  ;  thence  east  along  said  line  to  the  section  line 
between  sections  3  and  4  of  township  23  south,  range  10  west;  thence  south  along  said  line 
to  the  south  bountlary  of  said  township ;  thence  east  to  the  northeast  corner  of  township 
24  south,  range  10  west ;  thence  south  to  the  southeast  corner  of  said  township  ;  thence 
east  to  the  section  line  between  sections  3  and  4,  township  25  south,  range  U  west ; 
thence  south  to  the  south  boundary  of  township  26  south,  range  9  west ;  thence  east 
to  the  southeast  corner  of  said  township  ;  thence  south  to  the  southeast  corner  of  town- 
ship 28  south,  range  9  west ;  thence  west  to  the  section  line  between  sections  3  and  4, 
township  29  south,  range  9  west ;  thence  south  to  the  south  boundary  of  said  township; 
thence  west  to  the  southwest  corner  of  said  township ;  thence  due  south  to  the  summit 
of  the  ridge  dividing  the  waters  of  Rogue  river  from  the  Umpqua,  which  is  the  south- 
east corner  of  Coos  county.  From  this  point  the  county  line  as  it  exists  at  present 
follows  the  old  boundaries  defined  in  the  act  of  October  21,  1864.  to  tlie  ocean  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Suislaw. 

The  growth  of  Douglas  county  has  been  one  of  steady  development  from  the  tlay 
when  the  first  settlement  was  made  until  the  present  time.  There  have  been  no  spas- 
modic changes,  but  the  county  has  been  gradually  built  up  by  the  energy  and  persis- 
tent industry  of  the  people.  There  was  one  era,  however,  which  was  marked  by  more 
rapid  progress  than  any  other,  and  that  was  the  few  years  immediately  following  the 
construction  of  the  (Jregon  and  California  railroad  to  Roseburg  in  1872.  The  exten- 
sion of  the  road  through  the  county  southward  has  stimulated  industry  and  business 
in  that  section,  and  the  flattering  prospect  of  a  road  to  Coos  bay  is  producing  a  similar 
effect  throughout  the  county  generally.  The  indications  are  that  Douglas  county  has 
entered  upon  an  era  of  prosperity  far  greater  than  any  before  enjoyed,  during  which 
its  population,  wealth,  business,  and  products  of  all  kinds  will  be  largely  increased. 

The  following  statistics  of  the  county's  assessable  property  speak  elo(]uently  of  the 
value  and  steadily  increasing  development  of  its  resources.  The  total  taxable  proj)erty, 
wliich  consists  of  the  gross  assessed  valuation  less  the  legal  deductions  for  indebtedness 
and  exemptions,  was  as  follows  for  the  past  thirty  years:  1855,  #908,456  ;  population, 
587;  1856,1679,000;  1857,  $454,796;  1858,  |1,406,226;  1859,  .*1,570,6<)0 ;  1860, 
$1,398,752;  population,  3,091;  1861,  $987,108;  1862,  $815,002 ;  ISi;:!,  .^1,0.>7.156  ; 
1864,  $1,420,602;  1865,  $1,606,440;  1866,  $1,423,504;  18(i7,  $1,243,704;  18(;,s, 
$1,476,500;  1869,  $1,474,500 ;  1870,  $1,454,933 ;  1871,  $1,550,995;  1872,  $2,091.- 
933;  1873,  $3,366,013;  1874,  $2,745,520;  1875,  $1,910,791;  p.ipulatiim,  6,1-17; 
1876,  $1,862,045;  1877,  $1,997,565,  1878,  $2,042,275;  187!»,  $2,1311.118;  1881, 
$2,419,750;  1882,  $2,349,210;    1883,  $3,087,564.     The    following -summary  of  tlic 


408  ,  SOUTHEEN  OREGON. 

assessment  roll  of  1883,  gives  a  good  insight  into  the  present  condition  of  Douglas 
county  : 

DESCEIPTIOX.  XO.  TOTAL  ^'ALUE. 

Acres  of  land 504,366  $1,867,152 

Town  lots 1,233  250,375 

Improvements 416,930 

Merchandise  and  implements 377,595 

Money,  notes,  accounts,  shares  of  stock,  etc 1,124,495 

Household  furniture,  carriages,  watches,  etc 120,020 

Horses  and  mules 4,211  162,370 

Cattle 5,428  131,060 

Sheep 117,753  180,745 

Swine 11,467  26,215 

Gross  value  of  property $4,656,95 7 

Indedtedness '. $1,292,743 

Exemptions 276,650—         $1,569,393 

Total  taxable  property $3,087,564 

Number  of  polls,  collected 610 

"    not     "       962—  1,572 

The  number  of  acres  of  land  assessed  in  1882  was  486,516,  valued  at  $1,597,300, 
showing  an  increase  in  the  assessed  acreage  of  the  county  of  17,850  acres,  and  $269,- 
850  in  valuation. 


4 


""%  -. 


I  ^ 


■-^M 


.^^J^ms,-. 


:% 


Birds  Eye  View  of  R 


fc-- 


IJRG.DOUGLASCO. 
I 


I 


i 


CHAPTER   XLIX. 


ROSEBURG 

Settlement  of  Aaron  Rose— His  Trading  Post— First  Called  Deer  Creek —Secures  the  County  Seat  First 
Business  Men— County  Jail  and  Court  House— The  School  House -Winchester  Absorbed  by  Roseburg  - 
Roseburg  and  Coos  Bay  Road— Arrival  of  the  Railroad— Roseburs;  Incorporated— Burning  of  the  Jails  Fire 
Department— Brick  Buildings  -Business  Enterprises— Chmate  — Extension  of  the  O.  &  C.  R.  R.  -Roseburg 
and  Coos  Bay  R.  R.— Wool  and  Grain  Shipments— Generosity  of  Mr.  Rose— Churches  and  Societies  -Needs 
of  the  City— Newspapers  -Noted  Men  who  Hail  from    Roseburg. 

AVhen  the  northwest  coast  of  the  United  States  was  little  less  than  a  howling 
wilderness  and  the  strong  handed  pioneer  was  forcing  the  light  of  civilization  onward 
to  the  western  sea,  Aaron  Rose,  a  man  of  medinra  statnre,  iron  will  and  nerves  of 
steel,  came  jonrneying  from  the  forests  of  Michigan,  seeking  a  quiet  home  in  Oregon. 
He  left  nothing  behind  him  to  attract  his  gaze  from  the  setting  sun.  His  family  and 
effects  were  conveyed  along  with  him  in  the  usual  prairie  vehicle,  moved  by  the  usual 
steady,  stubborn  oxen.  After  many  days  of  toilsome  travel  in  crossing  the  Great 
American  Desert,  and  climbing  and  descending  the  Rocky  and  Sierra  Nevada  ranges, 
when  the  Siskiyous  were  successfully  passed  and  the  famous  Cow  creek  canyon  was  in 
the  rear,  on  the  twenty-third  day  of  September,  1851,  he  found  himself  looking  with 
admiration  upon  the  small  valley  at  the  junction  of  the  South  Umpqua  river  and  Deer 
creek. 

Mr.  Rose  saw,  here,  the  realization  of  his  dreams  and  claimed,  as  a  donation  from 
the  government,  the  land  upon  which  Roseburg  now  stands.  He  built  him  a  clap- 
board shanty  of  sufficiently  ample  dimensions,  near  the  place  where  the  center  of  the 
city  now  is,  and  engaged  in  selling  to  travelers,  teamsters  and  packers,  who  were  very 
numerous  in  those  days,  such  things  as  they  needed.  He  also  engaged  in  the  business 
of  farming  and  stock  raising.  Uncle  Aaron,  as  he  is  familiarly  called,  seems  to  have 
thrived  and  prospered  well  in  his  mercantile  and  other  pursuits,  notwithstanding  the 
fact  that  he  sometimes  mrcd  money  by  taking  his  customers'  notes  for  less  than  half 
the  amount  they  owed  him — and  he  can  show  you  some  of  the  notes  to-day,  still  uni)aid. 
The  Indians  of  the  Umpqua  and  Calapooia  tribes  were  all  around  him.  but  a  friendly 
relationship  always  existed  between  him  and  them.  He  had  one  of  them  in  his  service, 
known  far  and  wide  as  "  Rose's  Jim,"  who  remained  with  him  for  years.  The  neigh- 
liors,  within  a  radius  of  several  )niles,  were  few.  W.  T.  Perry  located  on  what  is  now 
known  as  the  Bushy  place,  across  Deer  creek  and  just  north  of  the  city.  Phillip 
Peters,  still  an  active  man,  resided  some  six  miles  away,  engaged  in  cattle  raising  and 
farming.  Jesse  Roberts,  also  cattle  raiser  and  farmer,  lived  only  a  few  miles  away, 
and  John  Kelly  worried  the  patient  backs  of  his  mules  with  the  complaining  pack 
saddle,  and  awoke  the  ready  echoes  with  his  lusty  shout,  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 
There  were  others,  also,  but  tliey  wei-e  few. 


410  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

In  1852,  there  was  a  considerable  immigration  to  Douglas  county,  and  Roseburg, 
or  Deer  creek  as  it  was  then  called,  began  to  assume  somewhat  larger  proportions, 
since  which  time  it  has  steadily  grown,  de^jending  solely  upon  its  natural  advantages^ 

In  1853, Bradbury  imjiorted  the  first  stock  of  general  merchandise  and  opened 

the  first  regular  store  in  Roseburg.  His  stock  was  ample  and  well  selected,  and  his 
success  marked.  He  was  the  fore-runner  of  a  long  list  of  suceessful  merchants,  some 
of  whom  are  still  in  business  here,  while  others  are  gone,  and  a  few  have  ceased  their 
labors  forever.  Mr.  Rose  lost  no  opportunity  of  advertising  his  proposed  town,  and 
used  both  his  energies  and  his  means  with  a  generous  hand  to  encourage  enterprising 
and  wealthy  men  to  make  their  homes  therein.  It  is  intimated  that  the  immense 
majority  by  which  Roseburg  was  chosen  as  the  county  seat  of  Douglas  county  in  April. 
1854,  was  due  to  his  hospitality  and  diplomacy,  in  some  degree,  at  least.  He  donated 
three  acres  of  land  and  $1,000  toward  building  a  court  house  for  the  county,  and  the 
court  house  was  built  and  the  money  expended  under  his  direction.  It  was  a  wooden 
building  and  served  its  purpose  for  years,  but,  at  this  writing,  is  doing  service  as  a  store 
room  and  tinshop  for  R.  S.  and  J.  C.  Sheridan.  The  county  jail  which  accommodated 
the  prisoners  of  those  days  was  somewhat  unique.  It  was  built  of  logs,  not  handsome 
but  secure.  There  was  no  door  opening  from  the  first  floor,  but  the  means  of  ingress 
was  furnished  by  a  trap  door  in  the  office  of  a  justice  of  the  peace  who  occupied  the 
second  story.  Instead  of  sending  the  prisoners  up,  his  honor  was  accustomed  to  send 
them  down  for  so  many  days,  and  there  was  small  chance  of  escape  between  the  sen- 
tence and  the  execution  thereof.  It  was  from  this  house,  and  out  of  this  trap  door^ 
that  Judge  Lynch  took  the  only  man  upon  whom  he  ever  passed  judgment  in  Roseburg, 
and  hanged  him  on  the  rafters  of  the  Deer  creek  bridge.  One  day,  however,  this 
primitive  jail  was  discovered  to  be  on  fire  and  about  all  that  was  saved  were  two  while 
men  and  two  Chinamen,  all  the  occupants  at  the  time. 

In  1855  began  the  Indian  war,  and  Roseburg  was  the  central  point  for  the  North- 
ern Battalion,  which  formed  and  procured  its  supplies  here.  About  this  time  the  town 
first  began  to  be  known  as  Roseburg.  The  population  was  steadily  increasing,  and 
houses  thickly  dotted  the  little  valley  and  hill  sides.  Business  was  increasing  and  its 
future  was  secured.  Uncle  Aaron  did  not  cease  his  efforts,  but  was  always  first  in  con- 
tributing to  proposed  improvements.  He  was  always  ready  to  donate  lots  to  churches, 
and  gave  the  land  upon  which  our  public  school  building  is  now  situated,  and  also 
$1,400  towards  building  the  house.  About  1857  the  U.  S.  Land  Office  was  built  at 
Winchester — a  two-story  building  which  was  afterward  moved  to  Roseburg,  bodily — and 
this  excited  the  people  of  Roseburg  to  outdo  the  rival  town  by  erecting  a  school  house 
of  grander  proportions  than  the  Land  Office.  They  accordingly  erected  the  three- 
story  edifice  which  vibrates  to  the  tread  of  their  district  school  children  to  this  day. 
It  was  rnore  magnificent  than  necessary,  but  it  fully  satisfied  their  ambition  and  drew 
heavily  on  their  purses.  The  two  rival  houses,  one  built  at  Winchester  and  one  in 
Roseburg,  some  four  or  five  miles  apart,  now  gaze  ujjou  each  other  at  a  stone's  throw, 
one  used  as  an  Odd  Fellows'  Temple  and  the  other  never  changed.  These  were  the 
finest  buildings  in  Southern  Oregon  at  the  time  of  their  construction.  In  about  1859 
Roseburg's  attractions  became  so  great  that  Winchester  was  not  able  to  resist  them,  and 
was  rolled  over  the  intervening  space,  and  the  two  bscame  one.     The  Land  Office, 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  411 

aliove  mentioned,  the  store  of  Floed  &  Co.,  just  as  it  appears  to-day,  with  a  little  change; 
A.  K.  Flint's  old  store,  now  on  Washington  street,  between  Main  and  Jack.-^on,  and 
Mrs.  Moffit's  residence,  near  the  banks  of  the  South  Umpqua  river,  with  others,  were 
moved  bodily  from  Winchester  and  placed  in  Koseburg,  where  they  now  stand.  In  a 
short  time  the  once  busy  little  town  on  the  bank  of  the  North  Umpqua  river  had  en- 
tirely disappeared,  and  it  lives  only  in  the  memory  of  its  former  inhabitants  and  the 
pages  of  the  county  records.  The  music  of  the  ringing  anvil  is  hushed,  the  jingle  of 
bar  glasses  and  gold  has  ceased,  the  shrill  cry  of  the  hoodlum  unheard,  and  the  busy 
merchant  no  more  presents  his  little  bill  on  Monday  morning,  on  the  streets  of  Win- 
chester. In  the  years  following,  when  the  eastern  and  southern  portions  of  our  com- 
mon country  were  bathed  in  blood  and  convulsed  with  civil  war,  the  fateful  influence 
was  strongly  felt  even  in  these  outskirts  of  the  world.  During  all  this  time  Rosoburg 
was  the  radiating  center  and  headquarters  of  all  parties.  Men  seemed  to  take  a 
deeper  interest  in  the  issues  presented,  if  that  were  possible,  and  talked  louder  and 
more  threateningly,  than  did  their  brothers  at  the  seat  of  war.  But  nothing  retarded 
the  steady  growth  of  the  future  city,  and  all  things  conspired  to  build  her  up.  In 
1869  steps  were  taken  to\vard  building  a  wagon  road  from  Roseburg  to  the  head  of 
tide  water  on  Coos  bay,  and  a  joint  stock  company  was  formed  for  that  jJurpose.  Like 
all  enterprises,  this  one  found  favor  in  the  eyes  of  some  persons,  and  was  denounced 
as  impracticable  by  others.  The  opposition  claimed,  in  this  instance,  that  the  road 
would  never  pay  for  itself  on  account  of  the  large  amount  of  money  which  would  be 
required  to  build  it  They  also  alleged  that  nature  had  made  a  natural  highway  from 
Roseburg  to  the  sea  ;  that  the  Umpqua  river  only  needed  a  few  thousand  dollars  ex- 
pended upon  it  to  become  a  navigable  stream  for  boats.  The  route  to  the  seaboard,  l)y 
way  of  the  river,  was,  as  has  been  related  on  page  385,  demonstrated  to  be  a  failuri', 
and  the  Coos  bay  wagon  road  enterprise  moved  on  to  success.  Iron,  giant  powder, 
muscle  and  money,  dug,  blasted  out,  graded  and  paid  for  the  present  road  to  Coos  City, 
which,  though  for  a  long  time  somewhat  precarious  and  unreliable,  is  at  last  a  success, 
and  it  is  possible  to  ride  very  comfortably  in  a  wagon  over  a  fair  mountain  road  from 
Roseburg  to  the  sea.  Most  of  the  former  stockholders  in  the  road  are  prominent  busi- 
ness men  in  Roseburg,  and  deserve  the  success  which  they  achieved  and  the  coin  bene- 
fits which  they  received  when,  in  the  beginning  of  1883,  they  sold  their  road,  fran- 
chise, etc.,  to  C.  Crocker.  In  1872  the  most  important  event  for  Roseburg  occurred 
when  the  O.  &  C.  railroad  track  was  laid  across  her  boundaries.  It  was  not  a  ([uestion 
whether  the  railroad  should  come  through  Roseburg  or  'lOt.  It  was  bound  to  come,  on 
account  of  the  lay  of  the  land.  While  the  finishing  of  the  railroad  to  this  point  w;ls 
a  matter  of  vast  importance  to  the  town,  the  ceasing  of  the  work  at  her  gates  was  no 
less  so.  Up  to  that  time  Roseburg  had  been  only  a  way  station  on  the  O.  &  C.  Stage 
road,  and  the  commerce  of  the  county  amounted  to  very  little,  or  nothing,  all  told. 
Very  little  grain  was  raised  except  for  flour,  feed  and  seed,  and  the  wool  clii)  was 
greatly  smaller  than  it  has  since  become.  The  only  means  of  transportation  were  the 
heavy  wagons  usually  drawn  by  hor.^es  or  mules,  over  a  mountain  road  to  the  Willam- 
ette valley.  The  beautiful  and  fertile  valleys  in  which  Douglas  county  abounds,  lying 
secluded  among  her  magniiicent  hills,  were  used  principally  for  stock  range,  when 
their  possibilities  were  much  givater.     She  was,  as  it  might  be  said,  a  perfect  electrical 


412  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

machine,  complete  iu  all  its  parts,  with  the  poles  of  her  battery  not  joined.  But  when 
the  iron  rails  were  laid  and  the  shrill  whistle  of  the  locomotive  waked  the  echos  iu  her 
mountain  fastnesses,  the  connection  was  made  and  all  the  machinery  felt  the  influence 
and  moved  in  perfect  harmony.  Eoseburg  l)ecame  a  center  of  commerce  for  the  country. 
Warehouses  were  built  at  the  depot,  and  the  granaries  and  wool  rooms  became  more 
and  more  crowded  each  year,  until  the  first  warehouses  became  too  small  and  had 
to  be  increased  or  replaced  by  new  and  larger  ones,  with  all  the  modern  improvements 
for  preparing  produce  for  the  market.  Jackson  and  Josephine  counties  received  their 
goods,  wares  and  merchandise  at  Roseburg,  thus  increasing  the  business  of  the  city  and 
helping  to  swell  the  tide  of  her  prosperity. 

Roseburg  was  incorporated  by  the  act  of  October  o,  1872.  At  the  first  election, 
which  was  held  the  eleventh  of  the  same  mouth,  the  following  ofiicers  were  elected : 
Trustees,  C.  Gaddis,  afterward  chairman ;  George  Haynes,  S.  Hamilton,  William  I. 
Friedlander,  and  T.  P.  Sheridan  ;  Recorder,  Andrew  Jones  ;  Marshal,  L.  C  Roden- 
berg ;  Treasurer,  E.  Livingston.  The  taxes  of  the  city  have  never  been  burdensome 
— not  over  three  mills — and  the  ordinances  passed  by  the  boards  are  salutary,  compre- 
hensive and  not  oppressive.  As  is  true  of  all  young  towns,  so  it  happened  that  the 
houses  of  Roseburg  were  nearly  all  built  of  wood,  and  the  majority  of  them  remain  so 
to  this  day  ;  yet  losses  by  fire  have  been  remarkably  infrequent.  Not  a  half  dozen 
fires  have  been  known  where  any  considerable  damage  has  been  done.  We  have 
already  mentioned  the  first  jail,  which  succumbed  to  the  fire  fiend.  The  one  which 
was  erected  to  replace  it  was  also  destroyed  by  fire.  This  was  built  of  brick,  with 
iron  cells  for  prisoners,  and  stood  southeast  of  the  present  court  house.  Several  times 
prisoners  effected  escapes  from  it.  In  the  spring  of  1882,  a  man  had  been  incarcerated 
therein,  having  committed  some  petty  offense,  and  was  awaiting  his  trial.  One  morn- 
ing, just  about  daylight,  the  jail  was  discovered  to  be  on  fire,  and  a  crowd  soon  col- 
lected to  render  what  assistance  was  possible  to  the  poor  fellow  within  the  iron  walls. 
It  appeared,  however,  that  the  fire  had  been  raging  w^ithin  for  some  time,  for  the 
building  was  so  hot  that  no  human  being  could  apjjroach  near  enough  to  even  see 
what  had  happened  on  the  inside.  All  that  could  be  done  was  to  stand  at  a  respect- 
ful distance  and  wait  for  the  fire  to  complete  its  work.  Later  in  the  day,  when  the 
roof,  floor,  and  other  woodwork  had  been  consumed,  and  the  blackened  walls  sur- 
rounded the  curled  and  twisted  sheets  of  iron  of  which  the  cage  had  been  composed, 
an  entrance  was  effected.  Nothing  resembling  a  human  form  could  be  discovered,  but, 
just  at  the  bottom  of  the  iron  door,  and  immediately  under  an  opening  therein,  was  a 
small  heap,  which,  upon  examination,  proved  to  be  all  that  was  left  of  the  recent 
prisoner.  He  had  escaped,  and  all  that  remained  to  indicate  that  he  had  been  there 
was  a  crisp  and  blackened  lump  which  Avould  hardly  have  been  taken  for  what  it  was 
in  any  other  place  or  under  any  other  circumstances.  What  was  left  was  decently 
buried  by  the  county,  and  the  place  which  knew  him  last,  knows  neither  him  nor  the 
old  jail  any  more  forever.  The  jail  which  the  county  has  at  present  is  an  elegant 
little  two-story  brick  building,  with  the  most  approved,  impregnable  cells,  and  an 
airy  corridor  running  around.  It  is  both  comfortable  and  safe.  On  the  upper  floor 
are  offices,  neat  and  well  ventilated.  The  county  court  house,  a  substantially  l>uilt 
and  commodious  and  conveniently  arranged  structure  stands  on  the  same  block. 


f 


'% 


-% 


2^^^-^^-^^^ 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  il3 

Though  tliere  never  has  been  a  devastating  fire  iu  Roseburg,  yet,  until  last  year, 
there  had  been  no  tire  company  of  any  possible  efficiency  in  the  city — a  few  ladders  and 
buckets  constituting  the  only  available  ap2)aratus  for  extinguishing  fires.  The  fire 
fiend  had  every  opportunity  for  glorious  work,  but  did  not  seem  disposed  to  take  it- 
In  the  spring  of  1883,  however,  steps  were  taken  to  organize  a  fire  company,  and,  ou 
the  tenth  day  of  May,  the  Board  of  Directors  passed  an  ordinance  creating  the  fire 
department  for  the  city  of  Roseburg.  There  are  two  companies  composing  the  depart- 
ment— the  Rescue  Hook  and  Ladder  Company,  No.  1,  and  the  Urapqua  Hose  Com- 
jiany.  No.  1.  The  city  has  built  a  large  reservoir  on  the  hill  east  of  town,  some  150 
feet  higher  than  the  houses,  and  laid  iron  pipes  therefrom  down  Washington  street  to 
Marks  &  Co.'s  building,  with  occasional  hydrants  at  convenient  points.  It  has  also 
pi'ocured  several  hundred  feet  of  hose,  and  provided,  at  large  expense,  a  handsome  and 
thoroughly  furnished  hook  and  ladder  truck. 

In  a  city  which  is  mostly  comprised  of  wooden  buildings,  it  is  not  amiss  to  l^rieliy 
mention  those  more  subtautially  constructed.  The  first  brick  house  in  Roseburg  was 
built  by  Mr.  T.  P.  Sheridan,  in  1859,  to  be  used  for  a  store,  and  is  still  owned  by 
members  of  the  same  family.  It  is  20x40  feet,  two  stories  high,  and  is  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  Jackson  street,  between  Douglas  and  Washington.  It  was  considered  a 
wonderful  building  at  that  time.  The  second  was  built  by  Dr.  S.  Hamilton,  in  the  year 
1866,  at  the  southeast  corner  of  Washington  and  Jackson  streets.  In  1874,  was  completed 
the  brick  house  where  the  postoffice  still  is,  and  built  by  H.  C.  Stanton,  who  still  occupies 
it.  Next  in  order  came  the  handsome  iron-front  brick  of  S.  Marks  &  Company,  in  1878, 
situated  ou  the  northwest  corner  of  Washington  and  Jackson  streets.  It  is  36x100 
feet,  two  stories  high,  and  cost  about  |"20,000.  Next  came  Dr.  Hamilton's  new  drug 
store,  adjoining  his  former  one,  built  in  1878.  Then  came  the  elegant  cut-stone-front 
brick  store  of  Abraham,  Wheeler  &  Co.,  built  in  1879,  on  the  southwest  corner  of  Oak 
and  Jackson  streets.  The  dimensions  of  this  block  are  45x90  feet,  and  two  tall  stories 
high — the  largest  in  the  city.  Mr.  E.  M.  Moore  put  up  a  single  story  brick  store  for 
Caro  Bros.,  next  to  the  postoffice,  in  1^80.  Last,  but  not  least,  in  importance,  was  the 
Douglas  County  Bank,  on  the  east  side  of  Jackson  street,  in  1883. 

There  are,  taken  all  together,  seven  general  mercantile  houses,  two  hardware  stores^ 
each  having  a  tin  shop  attached,  two  flouring  mills,  three  hotels,  one  bank,  three  black- 
smith shops,  two  drug  stores,  four  variety  stores,  two  jewelers,  three  millinery  shojis, 
two  butcher  shops,  two  livery  stables,  two  cabinet  shops,  three  grocery  stores,  two 
restaurants,  twelve  saloons,  two  barber  shops,  two  bakeries,  six  physicians,  two  dentists, 
ten  lawyers,  one  foundry,  one  brewery,  one  photograph  gallery,  two  shoe-maker  shops, 
one  marble  cutter,  and  several  wash  houses.  The  above  is  not  a  bad  record  of  business 
for  a  city  containing  but  one  thousand  inhabitants, all  told.  TheUnitedStatesLandOffice 
is  at  Roseburg.  It  was  moved,  as  before  remarked,  from  Winchester  in  1859.  The 
old  land  office  building  still  stands  under  an  immense  willow  tree,  on  the  north  side  of 
Douglas  street,  between  Rose  and  Jackson.  In  1879  the  land  office  was  removed  to  its 
elegant  quarters  in  the  brick  block  of  S.  Marks  &  Co.,  and  the  old  building  is  valuable 
for  little  else,  now,  than  a  relic  of  bygone  days.  The  officers  who  have  presided  in  the 
land  office  are  as  follows:  L.  F.  Mosher,  Register,  and  Colonel  Martin,  Receiver;  John 
Kellv  and  Mi".  Briggs ;  W.  R.  Willis  and  B.  Hermann  ;  W.  R.  Willis  and  J.  C.  Fuller- 


414  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

ton.  All  of  whom,  except  one,  are  no  longer  connected  with  the  office.  The  j^i'esent 
officers  are  Hon.  W.  F.  Benjamin  and  Hon.  J.  C.  Fullerton,  both  of  whom  are  affiible 
and  competent  gentlemen.  The  United  States  Signal  Office  was  established  in  1876, 
and  placed  in  charge  of  Sergeant  John  Dascomb.  Sergeant  J.  J.  Nanery  is  now  in 
charge.  The  barometer  is  just  537  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  an  inspection  of 
the  records  there  shows  the  following  entries  for  1883 :  Mean  of  highest  observations 
of  barometer,  30.052;  mean  of  lowest,  28.839  ;  annual  mean,  29.539.  Mean  of  highest 
thermometer  readings  during  the  year,  93° ;  mean  of  lowest,  9.4  ;  mean  for  the  year 
51.8°.  Total  rainfall  for  "rainy"  Oregon  during  1883  was  22.48  inches.  [For  previous 
years  see  page  300.]  We  challenge  the  world  to  show  a  more  salubrious  climate,  a 
more  desirable  range  of  barometer  or  thermometer,  or  more  favorable  conditions  gen- 
erally for  health  and  happiness.  Aaron  Kose  could  not  have  selected  a  more  favorable 
place  for  a  city.  The  Post  office  is  in  the  brick  store  of  H.  C  Stanton,  the  post  master. 
In  the  spring  of  1882,  the  Oregon  &  California  Railroad  Company  began  the 
extension  of  their  road  south,  and  it  was  not  many  months  before  the  terminus  ^t  Rose- 
burg  was  a  thing  of  the  past.  In  1883,  however,  the  company  built  a  three-stall  round 
house  just  south  of  the  depot,  and  made  this  the  end  of  a  division.  The  Oregon  and 
California  stage,  with  its  six  milk  white  steeds,  and  heavy  loads  of  freight,  mail  and  passen- 
gers, and  the  liimbering  freight  wagons,  with  their  long  teams  of  horses  and  jingling 
bells,  are  now  but  a  memory  in  Roseburg.  While  it  is  true  that  Roseburg 
has  lost  the  extreme  Southern  Oregon  trade,  it  is  generally  believed  that  what  she 
has  lost  by  the  extension  is  a  small  affair,  compared  to  what  she  will  gain  by  the  build- 
ing of  the  Roseburg  and  Coos  bay  railroad,  which,  it  is  predicted,  will,  at  least,  be  com- 
menced the  present  year.  We  join  them  in  the  hope  that  the  prediction  may  be  veri- 
fied. The  depot  building,  and  depot  warehouses — and  we  hope  the  company  will  soon 
give  a  better  depot — and  four  large  private  warehouses  are  on  the  depot  grounds.  They 
are  owned  by  the  estate  of  J.  C.  Floed,  the  Grange  Business  Association,  Abraham  ct 
Company,  and  S.  Marks  &  Company.  Immense  quantities  of  grain  and  wool  are  shipped 
from  these  warehouses  yearly.  In  the  year  1883,  which  was  not  an  extraordinary 
year  by  any  means,  the  following  amounts  were  shipped  : 

Wool — lbs.       Grain — bu. 

Grange  Business  Association 291,088  o.i.OUU 

S.  Marks  &  Co 162,82-2  4.\7U3 

Abraham  &  Co 120,000  2.i,000 

Total 573,910  12o,7u3 

When  the  rich  bottom  lands  of  Douglas  county  shall  be  farmed  on  scientific  prin- 
ciples, even  larger  warehouses  will  be  needed  at  Roseburg,  and  the  above  large  figures 
will  be  multiplied.  This,  of  course,  does  not  represent  the  entire  exports  from  Rose- 
burg, but  will  suffice  to  indicate  how  the  commerce  has  grown  from  the  barter  of  Uncle 
Aaron  Rose,  in  his  clapboard  shanty.  The  old  gentleman  has  never  ceased  to  give  to 
objects  which  might  be  a  benefit  to  Roseburg.  He  gave  the  depot  grounds  to  the  rail- 
road company  and  the  right  of  way  over  his  land,  and  sold  them,  for  a  song  almost^ 
gravel  to  ballast  their  road.  Long  ago  he  moved  from  his  first  location,  and  now  occu- 
pies a  neat  and  comfortable  little  cottage  on  the  top  of  an  eminence  south  of  town^ 
from  which  the  whole  valley  can  easily  be  seen.      He  has  ample  means  to  live  easily 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  415 

aiul  no  longer  worries  himself  with  the  cares  of  business.  May  his  declining  years 
continue  to  flow  gently  and  peacefully  on  until  they  mingle  with  timeless  eternity. 

There  are  five  church  edifices  in  the  city — the  Metiiodist  Episcopal  South,  on 
Washington  street,  between  Rose  and  Stephens ;  the  Roman  Catholic,  on  Washington 
street,  north  of  Main  ;  the  Episcopal,  on  Main  street,  between  Washington  and  Oak  ; 
the  Methodist  Episcopal, on  Main  street,  between  Oak  and  Lane  ;  and  the  Presbyterian, 
on  Rose  street,  south  of  Oak. 

Umpqua  R.  A.  Chapter  No.  11.,  was  organized  September  10,  1874,  agreeable  to 
a  petition  of  the  following  named  Royal  Arch  Masons:  Thomas  H.  Cox,  G.  M.  Stroud, 
Asher  Marks,  John  Lehnherr,  Louis  Belfils,  N.  P.  Bunnell,  Thos.  J.Beale,  J.  J.  Com- 
stock,  A.  G.  Brown ;  when  the  following  named  companions  were  empowered  to 
act  as  the  Chief  Officers:  T.  H.  Cox,  as  H.  P. ;  A.  G.  Brown,  as  K. ;  N.  P.  Bunnell,  as 
S.,  the  temporary  organized  Chapter  continued  its  labors  until  May  25,  and  at  the  June 
session  of  the  Grand  Chapter,  a  charter  was  granted,  and  in  September  of  the  same 
year  the  Grand  Chapter  officers  convened  in  Roseburg,  and  in  due  form  organized  and 
consecrated  Umpqua  Chai^ter,  and  the  following  were  elected  as  the  principal  officers: 
Thos.  H.  Cox  as  H.  P.;  X.  P.  Bunnell  as  K.;  Thos.  J.  Beale  as  S.;  H.  Abraham  as  T.; 
W.  I.  Friedlander  as  Sec.  Up  to  that  date  24  members  were  enrolled.  The  Chapter 
now  has  50  members. 

Laural  Lodge,  No.  13,  A.  F.  &  A.  M.,  was  chartered  June  18,  1857.  First  officers  : 
John  Dillard,  W.  M.  ;  James  J.  Patton,  S.  W. ;  James  Odle,  J.  W. ;  C.  P.  Stratton,  S. 
The  present  officers  are:  Binger  Hermann,  W.  M.;  A.  A.  Engles,  S.  W.;  R.  M.  Davis, 
J.  W.;  J.  P.  Duncan,  Sec.  The  present  membership  is  51.  Meets  Wednesday  on  or 
immediately  preceding  the  full  moon  of  each  month. 

Union  Encampment,  No.  t»,  I.  O.  O.  F.,  meets  on  the  first  and  third  Tuesdays  of 
each  month. 

Philetarian  Lodge,  No.  8,  I.  O.  O.  F.,  was  organized  by  Samuel  E.  May  on  tlie 
ninth  of  February,  1859,  with  Rufus  Mallory,  J.  H.  Choyuski,  J.  Q.  Vauderborlo, 
Joel  Thorn,  C.  Gaddis  and  E.  S.  Kearney  as  charter  members.  The  first  officers  were : 
Rufus  Mallory,  N.  G. ;  J.  Q.  Vanderborlo,  V.  G. ;  C.  Gaddis,  Sec.  ;  Joel  Thorn, 
Treas.  The  only  one  of  these  gentlemen  now  residing  in  Roseburg  is  Mr.  Gaddis,  and 
lie  also  assisted  in  the  institution  of  Chenieketa  Lodge,  No.  1,  the  first  to  be  organized 
in  Oregon.  The  present  mem))ershii)  is  thirty,  and  the  officers  for  the  current  term  are  : 
A.  C.  Marks,  N.  G. ;   W.  H.  Moore,  V.  G. ;  E.  G.  Hursh,  Sec.  ;  L.  Belfils,  Treas. 

Roseburg  Lodge,  No.  16,  A.  O.  U.  W.,  was  organized  August  5,  1880,  by  Warren 
S.  White,  of  Portland,  with  thirteen  charter  members  and  the  following  officers :  J.  M. 
F.  Brown,  P.  M.  W. ;  J.  W.  Strange,  M.  W. ;  P.  Benedict,  G.  F. ;  C.  W.  Castle,  O.  ; 
R.  Nowcomb,  Reed.  T.;  S.  Roademan,  Fin.;  Henry  Gates,  Recv.  ;  C.  Y.  Benjamin, 
(J.  ;  J.  F.  W.  Sanbert,  I.  G. ;  S.  B.  Higley,  O.  G. ;  J.  .M.  F.  Brown,  M.  E.  The  pres- 
int  membership  of  the  lodge  is  forty-five. 

Roseburg  Lodge,  No.  387,  I.  O.  G.  T.,  was  organized  September  8,  1882,  by  Dr. 
E.  Jessup,  G.  AV.  C.  T.,  with  twenty-four  charter  members.  The  present  officers  are  : 
W.  F.  Owens,  W.  C.  T. ;  Mrs.  A.  Jones,  W.  V.  T. ;  H.  S.  Strange,  W.  S. ;  P.  :\rat- 
t'liews,  W.  F.  S.;  Mamie  Jones,  W.  T. ;  A.  W.  Slemm.ms,  W.  M.  ;  W.  P.  Webb,  W. 
C;  C.  Gaddis,  D.  D. 


416  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

Douglas  county  District  Lodge,  I.  O.  G.  T.,  was  organized  by  Will  C.  King,  G.  W. 
C  T.  January  23,  1884,  with  fifteen  members,  and  the  following  officers  :  H.  Rogers, 
D.  C.  T. ;  Mrs.  B.  A.  Cathey,  D.  V.  T. ;  W.  F.  Benjamin,  D.  S. ;  H.  S.  Strange,  D. 
F.  S. ;  Lillie  Moon,  D.  T.  ;  H.  P.  Webb,  D.  C. ;  Eobert  Cheshire,  D.  M. 

Having  enumerated  the  industries  carried  on  in  Roseburg,  it  may  not  be  out  of 
place  to  mention  one  or  two  very  desirable  possibilities.  There  is  a  sore  need  of  con- 
venient water  facilities,  both  for  fire  and  for  domestic  and  business  isurposes.  The  wells 
are  too  warm  in  summer  and  catch  too  much  surface  water  in  winter.  The  South 
Umpqua  flows  by  upon  the  west  and  Deer  creek  comes  sparkling  out  of  the  hills  on  the 
east.  An  engine  in  the  one  or  a  hydraulic  ram  in  the  other  would  furnish  the  city 
with  an  unlimited  supply  of  pure  and  pleasant  water.  Yet  no  one  has  taken  the  nec- 
essary steps  to  accomplish  either  result.  Immense  quantities  of  wool  are  annually 
shipped  from  Roseburg,  manufactured  in  other  places  and  brought  back  in  the  form  of 
blankets  and  cloth.  This  is  altogether  unnecessary,  for  a  splendid  dam  has  been  thrown 
across  the  South  Umpqua  just  south  of  town,  and  would,  for  a  small  consideration,  fur- 
nish ample  power  to  drive  innumerable  spindles  and  looms.  But  nobody  seems  dis- 
posed to  furnish  the  spindles  and  looms  and  the  power  is  lost,  except  the  small  force 
which  drives  the  wheel  of  the  flouring  mill.  There  is  no  place  where  such  business 
ventures  might  be  followed  to  more  certain  success  than  in  Roseburg. 

The  first  newspaper  started  in  Roseburg  was  the  Umpqua  Gazette,  about  1860 — a 
Democratic,  Breckenridge  and  Lane  sheet,  which  made  the  campaign  of  that  year 
lively.  It  was  followed  by  the  Ensign,  a  Republican  journal,  in  1868.  The  papers 
which  are  known  and  remembered  to-day  are  the  Plaindealer,  inaugurated  as  a  Demo- 
cratic sheet  in  1870,  but  fell  into  the  hands  of  Republicans  in  1874.  It  still  remains 
a  Republican  journal  of  the  straightest  sect.  The  Independent  was  the  organ  of  the 
party  of  that  name  in  1874.  It  continued  to  be  supported  by  former  Independents 
for  some  time  after  the  party  was  practically  disorganized,  but,  in  1882,  was  sold  to 
some  Democratic  gentlemen  and  brought  into  line  for  that  party.  It  still  advocates 
Jeffersonian  principles.  There  never  has  been  in  Roseburg  a  spicier,  newsier  sheet 
than  the  Democratic  Star,  inaugurated  by  Flett  and  Mosher,  in  the  year  1877,  and 
continued  afterward  by  Floed  &  Mosher.  But  it  was  wrecked  upon  a  ledge  of  bank- 
ruptcy, and  its  type  and  material  were  added  to  the  stock  of  its  former  opponents. 
There  have  been  sporadic  sheets,  generally  dailies,  and  usually  the  evidences  of  warm 
opposition  or  political  enthusiasm.  Their  young  lives  were  invariably  crushed  out 
before  they  had  attained  sufficient  importance  to  demand  a  place  in  history. 

Roseburg  is  proud  of  her  sons  who  have  gone  forth  from  her  gates  to  battle  with 
the  world.  She  has  very  seldom  had  occasion  to  do  aught  but  glory  in  their  victories. 
Their  names  are  well  known.  First  of  all,  she  was  proud  of  General  Joseph  Lane, 
though  he  was  a  warrior,  in  every  sense  of  the  word,  before  Roseburg  was  dreamed  of 
But  he  hallowed  Roseburg  with  his  presence  for  many  a  year,  and  she  will  ever  keep 
his  memory  green,  though  his  noble  old  head  has  bowed  to  the  behest  of  Death  and 
lies  resting  away  the  weariness  of  life  in  the  tomb  prepared  under  his  own  observation. 
Of  her  sons,  Rufus  Mallory  taught  school  in  Roseburg  and  studied  law  there  under 
Ex-Governor  S.  F.  Chadwick.  The  record  of  these  men  is  too  well  known  to  burden 
the  reader  by  repeating  it,  as  are  those  of  IMosher,  Lane,  Gibbs,  Stratton,  and  Watson. 
They,  and  others,  have  all  reflected  great  credit  upon  their  mother  city. 


i 


CHAPTER   L. 

LOCALITIES  SOUTH  AND  SOUTHWEST  OF  ROSEBURG. 

Looking-Glass—Flournoy  -Happy  Valley— Ten-Mile  — Camas   Vgjley— Civil   Bend   and   Dillard     Myrtle   Creek 
Missouri  Bottom— Cow  Creek  Valley  and  Riddle— Glendale. 

Looking-glass  is  the  name  of  an  important  locality  lying  west  and  southwest  ot 
Roseburg,  and  some  ten  miles  distant.  The  name  is  apjilied  to  a  creek,  the  valley  and 
the  small  post-office  town.  The  Roseburg  and  Coos  bay  road  passes  through  the  valley, 
and  the  village  lies  at  the  junction  of  that  road  with  another  which  runs  down  the 
valley.  The  village  is  situated  in  section  36,  township  27,  range  7  west.  The  valley 
lies  mainly  in  that  townshij)  and  in  township  28,  and  includes  quite  a  large  area  of 
cultivable  land  lying  upon  the  creek,  which,  including  its  main  branch,  the  Olalla, 
is  some  thirty  miles  long.  The  Looking-glass  jiroper,  rises  in  the  mountains  north- 
west of  the  village,  in  the  western  ^lart  of  township  27,  and  flows  southeastwardly  to 
the  South  Umpqua,  emptying  into  the  latter  stream  some  eight  miles  south  of  Rose- 
bui-g.  The  course  of  the  Olalla  is  from  the  south,  uniting  with  Looking-glass  a  mile 
or  two  from  the  village.  Looking-glass  valley,  or  prairie,  as  it  is  occasionally  styled, 
obtained  its  name  as  follows :  In  1847  a  company  of  men  was  organized  in  Polk 
county,  near  the    Luckiamute,  to  explore  Southern   Oregon.     Colonel  Ford,  H.  B. 

Flournoy, Thorp,  and  others  belonged  to  this  band.    Going  as  far  south  as  Rogue 

river,  they  returned ;  and  traversing  this  valley  they  were  impressed  with  its  beauty, 
and  Mr.  Flournoy  remarked  that  it  looked  like  a  looking-glass,  upon  which  it  received 
its  present  name.  The  greater  part  of  the  valley  land  is  good,  producing  regular  and 
certain  crops.  Northwest  stands  INIount  Arrington,  4,900  feet  high,  one  of  the  most 
prominent  peaks  of  the  Coast  Range,  and  so  named  by  Evans,  a  geologist  who  visited 
the  country  in  1853.  The  first  white  settler  in  Looking-glass  valley  was  Daniel 
Huntley,  who  came  in  the  fall  of  1851.  During  the  previous  year  H.  B.  Flournoy 
had  settled  in  the  romantic  and  lovely  valley  which  bears  his  name,  and  these  two 
were  almost  the  only  residents  of  a  considerable  tract  of  country.  The  latter  jiossessed 
the  distinction  of  being  the  first  white  settler  west  of  the  South  Umptpia  river.  Later 
came  Milton  Huntley,  Joseph  Huntley,  Robert  Yates,  J.  and  E.  Sheffield,  who  settled 
in  Looking-glass  in  1852.  By  the  fall  of  the  next  year  nearly  the  whole  valley  was 
covered  by  donation  claims.  There  are  nine  sections  of  level  plow  land  in  the  valley, 
all  of  which  was  taken  up.  The  country  west  of  the  South  Umpqua  and  embracing 
Looking-glass,  Olalla,  Ten  Mile  and  Camas  suffered  considerably  in  the  Indian  wars. 
In  1855  there  was  a  body  of  Umpqua  Indians  living  on  Looking-glass  creek,  three 
miles  below  the  present  village  of  Looking-glass.  They  numbered  sixty-four  persons, 
and  were  supposed  to  be  under  the  care  of  J.  ]\r.  Arrington.     On  the  breaking  out  ot 


418  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

hostilities  to  the  southward,  the  settlers  of  the  Looking-glass  began  to  observe  symp- 
toms of  uneasiness  among  the  Indians,  and  determined  to  strike  the  first  blow  them- 
selves. They  organized  themselves,  and  attacked  the  camas-eaters,  killing  eight  of 
them,  and  drove  the  remainder  to  the  mountains.  These  fugitives  afterwards  joined 
the  hostile  tribes  on  Rogue  river.  The  attack  was  made  October  28,  1855.  Joining 
the  other  Indians,  these  now  ill-disj30sed  and  perhaps  justly  revengeful  savages  came 
back  with  a  strong  party  the  following  December,  and  burned  houses  and  destroyed 
property  from  South  Umpqua  to  South  Ten  Mile,  where  they  were  stayed  in  their 
work  of  desolation.  The  settlers  uniting  and  being  joined  by  volunteers  from  various 
localities,  met  the  aborgines  and  fought  what  is  known  as  the  Battle  of  Olalla.  In  this 
affray  James  Castleman  was  wounded,  it  being  the  only  casualty  sustained  by  the 
whites,  while  the  Indians  lost  one  of  their  principal  men,  Cow  Creek  Tom,  and  seven 
or  eight  more  died  of  wounds  received  in  the  fight,  according  to  the  Indians'  own 
account.  This  fight  took  place  on  the  land  now  belonging  to  W.  R.  Wells,  Esq.  The 
result  was  a  complete  rout  of  the  Indians  and  recovery  of  the  stock  that  they  had  cap- 
tured. Later,  on  the  twelfth  of  April,  1856,  a  company  of  "  minute  men  "  was  organ- 
ized, by  authority  of  the  j^roclamation  issued  by  Governor  George  L.  Curry  on  the 
eleventh  of  March.  The  company  was  organized  at  the  school  house  in  Looking-glass, 
and  contained  the  following  members  :  David  Williams,  captain  ;  William  H.  Stark, 
first  lieutenant;  William  Cochran,  first  sergeant;  Privates,  James  M.  Arrington,  John 
P.  Applegate,  Willis  Alden,  Samuel  W.  K.  Applegate,  John  P.  Boyer,  Levi  Ballard, 
William  Cochran,  Roland  Flournoy,  Samuel  S.  Halpain,  John  H.  Hartin,  Nathaniel 
Huntley,  Daniel  Huntley,  Joseph  Huntley,  Alex.  M.  Johnson,  Fred  Mitchell,  Hilry 
A.  Mitchell,  Franklin  Mitchell,  Edmund  F.  McNall,  Ambrose  Newton,  William  H. 
Stark,  Abbott  L.  Todd,  Franklin  White,  George  W.  Williams,  David  Williams,  Jeffer- 
son Williams,  Milton  H.  Williams,  Peter  W.  Williams. 

The  village  of  Looking-glass  was  laid  out  in  the  spring  of  1873.  The  proprietors 
of  the  land  were  P.  W.  Williams  east  of  the  main  road,  and  H.  Crow  and  Isom  Cran- 
field  on  the  west  side.  The  first  building  ei'ected  was  a  store  built  by  the  firm  of 
Hirschfield  and  Zelinsky.  In  August,  1876,  W.  Cochran  bought  this  store  and  has 
retained  it  ever  since.  After  the  store  followed  a  blacksmith  shop,  owned  by  Wiley 
Pilkington,  a  wagonmaking  shop  by  J.  H.  Hopkins,  a  hotel  by  Mrs.C.  C.  Brown,  then 
a  two-story  school  house,  twenty-six  by  sixty  feet  in  size — a  very  creditable  building. 
The  upper  story  contains  a  large  hall  used  by  the  Grange  and  Good  Templars,  and  by 
various  sects  and  societies.  The  Good  Templars  still  keep  up  an  active  organization 
and  have  done  a  great  deal  to  humanize  and  refine  the  neighborhood.  Thanks  to  their 
influence  but  one  saloon  exists  within  the  precincts  of  Looking-glass  and  that  receives 
but  faint  support.  Mirror  Lodge,  No.  57  I.  O.  O.  F.  was  organized  in  Looking-glass 
June  3,  1876  by  District  Deputy  Grand  Master  J.  C.  Fullerton.  Officers:  H.  P.  Wat- 
kins,  N.  G.;  J.  H.  Hartin,  V.  G.;  Hayman  Zelinsky  R.  S.;  William  Cochran,  Treasurer. 

Looking-glass  now  [1883]  contains  one  store,  dealing  in  general  merchandise, 
two  livery  stables,  one  hotel,  one  variety  store,  one  blacksmith  shop,  one  wagon  shop, 
a  grist  mill  and  fifteen  or  twenty  residences.  A  daily  mail  adds  to  the  conveniences 
of  life. 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY..  419 

111  the  vicinity  of  Looking-glass  prairie  there  are  the  out-croppiiigs  of  coal  seams. 
Several  of  the  seams  have  been  explored  to  more  or  less  extent,  and  in  one  or  iwo  cases 
promising  results  have  been  obtained.  Half  a  mile  west  of  Daniel  Hunt's  donation 
claim,  and  on  section  4,  township  28,  range  7  west,  a  vein  exists  some  twelve  inches 
thick  of  an  unexcelled  quality.  A  short  tunnel  was  run  upon  it  and  indications  con- 
tinued to  strengthen  people's  belief  in  the  discovery  of  a  paying  seam.  This  however 
was  not  the  earliest  discovery  of  coal  in  that  vicinity.  Two  of  the  best  claims  yet  found 
were  discovered  nearly  twenty  years  ago,  the  one  by  James  Turner,  the  other  by  R. 
M.  Gurney.  The  former  was  at  the  time  owner  of  the  first  saw  mill  built  on  Looking- 
glass  creek.  The  vein  was  left  untouched  until  a  few  years  ago  when  means  were 
taken  to  develop  it.  Coal  of  a  quality  suitable  for  the  manufacture  of  illuminating  gas 
is  said  to  be  furnished  by  this  vein.  Joseph  Hopkins  took  measures  to  work  this  vein, 
but  the  lack  of  sufficient  capital  to  do  so  has  thus  far  prevented  development.  Frank 
Headrick  has  undertaken  the  management  of  the  Gurney  mine,  and  seems  determined 
to  ascertain  its  true  value. 

Flotjrxor — Two  miles  west  of  Looking-glass  village  and  accessible  therefrom  by 
the  Coos  bay  stage  route  lies  Flournoy  valley,  a  beautiful  little  vale  of  about  2,000 
acres,  now  owned  by  Messrs.  Flournoy,  Archambeau,  Crow  and  Jones.  The  soil  is 
very  fertile  and  productive,  and  is  mostly  sowed  to  wheat.  Through  this  valley  runs 
Flournoy  creek,  a  branch  of  Looking-glass.  The  valley  was  named  for  its  first  occu- 
pant, H.  B.  Flournoy,  who  settled  there  in  1850.  Besides  the  individual  achievements 
of  its  early  settler  the  valley  possesses  somewhat  of  renown  derived  from  various  circum- 
stances, more  particularly  in  the  Rogue  river  wars.  Fort  Flournoy  is  a  wooden  defensive 
work,  built  by  the  settlers  in  1855  to  protect  the  people  of  the  vicinity  against  the 
savages,  but  never  used  as  such.  It  still  stands  as  a  memorial  of  those  troublous  times, 
and  may  be  seen  now  by  the  antiquary  or  the  curiosity-seeker.  It  is  built  of  hewed 
logs  in  the  form  of  the  block  houses  erected  by  our  fore-fathers  to  guard  against  their 
vindictive  neighbors,  the  Indians.  Its  size  at  the  base  is  some  sixteen  or  eighteen  feet 
square,  but  after  rising  seven  or  eight  feet  the  second  story  is  considerably  larger — 
twenty-six  or  twenty-eight  feet  square — projecting  beyond  the  outside  of  the  under 
portion.  Loopholes  provide  opportunity  for  shooting  downward  upon  opponents  who 
may  be  engaged  in  forcing  an  entrance  to  the  lower  storj'. 

Happy  Valley,  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Umjiqua  river  in  townships  27  iuid 
28,  and  ranges  6  and  7  west.  It  was  settled  in  1852,  by  four  bachelors — H.  Lord,  J.  T. 
Carey,  Charles  Vernon  and  another — four  jolly  fellows  who  gave  it  the  name  of  Hapi)y 
Valley.  They  were  followed  in  1853,  by  J.  M.  Arrington,  Henry  and  Noble  Saxton, 
S.  H.  Applegate,  S.  Minard,  Wm.  Cochran,  Elias  Capron,  A.  Ferguson,  C.  Lehnherr 
and  D.  Noah,  of  whom  none  but  J.  M.  Arrington  and  S.  Minard  now  remain  in  the 
locality.  This  valley  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and  will  average  about  one  mile  in 
width,  is  very  fertile,  and  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  South  Umpqua,  on  the  west  by 
Looking-glass  creek,  and  on  other  sides  by  mountains. 

Tex  Mile. — Ten  Mile  valley  is  situated  about  sixteen  miles  from  Ixoseburg,  in  a 
southwesterly  direction.  It  is  drained  by  two  noted  creeks,  the  Ten  Mile  and  Olalla^ 
the  former  running  east  and  the  latter  north.  Ten  Mile  valley  averages  one  and  a 
half  miles  wide.     The  two  portions  of  the  valley  are  usually  distinguished   by  the 


420  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

names  North  Ten  Mile  and  South  Ten  Mile,  the  latter  heing  the  valley  of  the  Olalla. 
This  latter  name  it  may  be  observed  is  a  subject  of  corruption.  Some  people,  not 
renowned  for  philological  skill,  have  called  it  0-lil-ly,  with  the  stress  laid  upon  the  O. 
This,  it  appears,  is  the  Indian  for  berries,  which  were  said  to  be  found  in  profusion  on 
a  small  tributary  of  the  stream.  But  the  postal  authorities,  with  that  fine  taste  which 
distinguishes  all  of  Uncle  Sam's  employes,  called  the  post  office  on  its  establishment, 
Olalla,  setting  at  defiance  the  principles  of  etymology,  but  producing,  doubtless,  a  more 
satisfactory  word. 

In  the  spring  of  1853,  says  Mr.  W.  K.  Wells,  there  were  four  or  five  families 
settled  in  Ten  Mile,  and  a  few  single  men,  making  a  total  of  not  over  twenty  per- 
sons. These  settlers  were  mostly  in  poor  circumstances  as  to  property,  and  for  a  time 
suffered  many  inconveniences.  ISTot  the  least  of  these  was  the  fear  of  Indians,  which 
until  the  close  of  1856  kept  people  in  continual  susj)ense.  In  the  summer  and  fall  of 
1853  several  families  came  from  the  Willamette  valley  and  settled  in  Ten  Mile,  and 
some  eastern  immigrants  likewise  came  in,  making  a  total  of  perhaps  fifty  inhabitants. 
The  following  winter  was  remarkable  for  the  privations  suffered  by  them,  whose  main 
dependence  was  wild  game,  which  then  abounded.  Beef,  bacon  and  other  essentials 
sold  at  very  high  prices ;  flour  cost  fifteen  cents  per  pound,  and  the  wheat  needed 
to  seed  the  land  cost  four  dollars  per  bushel.  The  crop  of  1854  was  slight  ,  that  of 
the  next  year  was  bountiful ;  but  just  after  the  latter  harvest  the  Indian  troubles 
began.  The  natives  made  hostile  demonstrations  in  December,  first  making  an  attack 
on  Hiram  Rice's  residence,  between  Ten  Mile  and  Canyonville,  breaking  Austin 
Rice's  arm  with  a  bullet.  The  settlers  began  immediately  to  take  precautions  against 
a  surprise,  putting  themselves  in  a  posture  of  defense,  and  gathering  the  necessary 
munitions  of  war  to  enable  them  to  withstand  the  hostiles'  attack.  The  enemy  for 
some  reason  made  no  further  attacks  upon  the  whites,  but  passed  on  through  South 
Ten  Mile,  burning  buildings  and  destroying  property.  The  fate  of  this  band  is 
recorded  in  the  history  of  Looking-glass. 

The  remaining  history  of  the  valley  is  less  exciting.  Settlers  came  in  successively, 
occupied  the  land,  utilized  a  portion  of  it,  and  made  the  region  what  it  is  to-day — a 
pleasant  abiding  place  and  a  productive  farming  locality.  Among  the  institutions 
built  up  by  the  community  are  the  Methodist  Episcopal  church,  of  North  Ten  Mile, 
which  was  organized  in  1858.  Thomas  Coats  was  class  leader,  and  Thomas  O.  Olivaut 
and  John  Olmstead  were  stewards.  The  society  built  a  house  of  worship  in  1869. 
The  principal  industries  of  the  valley  are  farming  and  stock  growing.  Messrs.  Wells 
&  Ireland  possess  a  grist  mill,  W.  R.  Wells  keeps  a  store  of  general  merchandise  in 
South  Ten  Mile,  and  William  Irwin  conducts  a  similar  establishment  in  North  Ten 
Mile.  About  five  miles  above  the  former  valley,  and  on  Olalla  creek,  are  certain  gold 
mines,  owned  by  Messrs.  Wells  &  Castile.  About  three  and  a  half  miles  from  Olalla 
post  office  is  the  Davis  gold  mine,  in  which  a  two  hundred  and  fifty  foot  tunnel  is  being 
or  has  been  excavated.  Fifty  cents  per  panful  of  dirt  were  secured  in  prospecting. 
On  Coarse  Gold  gulch  John  Fisher  owns  a  claim  said  to  be  of  value. 

Ten  Mile,  lying  within  the  thirty  mile  limit,  contains  considerable  railroad  land, 
mainly  useful  for  grazing  and  timber.  Much  of  it  is  held  by  settlers  who  design  pay- 
ing therefor  and  acquiring  title  as  soon  as  possible.     The  oldest  residents  in  Ten  Mile 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  i21 

are  Messrs.  W.  E.  Wells,  K.  B.  Ireland,  W.  N.  McCulloch,  Thomas  Coats,  John 
Fisher,  David  McGuire,  William  Irwin,  John  Freeman,  and  John  Byron,  the  latter 
of  whom  was  the  first  settler  in  the  valley. 

Camas  Valley. — Camas  valley,  formerly  known  as  Eighteen-Mile  valley  (being 
that  distance  from  Flournoy's),  lies  in  the  extreme  southwestern  part  of  Douglas 
county.  It  lies  at  the  head  of  the  middle  fork  of  the  Coquille  river,  which  drains  the 
country  round  about.  Camas  valley  is  some  seven  miles  in  length  and  three  in  widths 
possesses  a  very  fertile  soil  about  1,000  acres  in  extent,  and  has  uncommon  facilities  for 
procuring  timber.  Some  of  the  most  productive  ranches  in  Douglas  county  lie  within 
this  vale.  Nearly  all  the  valuable  food  products  of  the  clime  flourish  in  this  out-of- 
the-way  nook,  and  the  inhabitants  are  self-supporting  to  a  high  degree.  The  first  per- 
manent settlement  in  the  valley  was  made  by  William  Day  and  Alston  Martindale, 
March  8,  1853,  and  both  of  these  pioneers  still  occupy  the  donation  claims  which  they 
then  took  up.  In  the  same  year  came  — .  Patterson,  C.  B.  Kawson  and  Jesse  Dryer- 
A  few  others  came  within  a  year  or  two,  among  them  Adam  Day,  but  in  1856  there 
were  but  three  women  in  the  valley.  These  were  the  wives  of  Messrs.  Day  and  [Mar- 
tindale and  the  daughter  of  Adam  Day. 

In  March,  1850,  an  Indian  raid  took  place.  Coming  into  the  valley  by  way  of 
the  trail  leading  from  the  Big  Meadows,  the  savages  burned  the  houses  of  William  and 
Adam  Day,  drove  off  their  stock  and  did  other  damage.  A  volunteer  company  was 
collected,  and,  pursuing  the  Indians,  came  up  with  them  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  March  ,^ 
and  had  a  running  fight,  wounding  several  of  them,  but  failing  to  recover  the  stolen 
property.  Previous  to  this  the  alarmed  settlers  had  been  obliged  to  gather  in  a  stock- 
ade which  was  built  of  logs,  and  was  about  one  hundred  feet  square.  Here  the  non- 
militant  portion  of  the  community  existed,  the  others  sallying  out  in  quest  of  the 
necessities  of  life. 

In  Camas  valley  there  is  a  sawmill  owned  by  Messrs.  Prior,  Fei-guson  and  Devitt 
It  is  upon  the  headwaters  of  the  Coquille's  middle  fork,  and  is  surrounded  with  excel- 
lent timber — fir,  cedar,  sugar  pine  and  oak.  It  has  a  capacity  of  about  three  thousand 
feet  daily.  On  Bear  creek  is  another  mill.  This  stream  flows  into  Cedar  creek,  which 
in  turn  runs  into  Ten  Mile,  a  tributary  of  Looking-glass.  Messrs.  Gurney  Brothers 
own  this  mill,  which  began  work  about  1880.  It  has  a  ca2)acity  of  10,000  feet  ilaily, 
using  chiefly  yellow  fir  and  sugar  pine. 

Civil  Bend  and  Dillaed. — Along  the  south  Umpqua  stretches  a  very  fertile 
tract  of  land  which,  commencing  two  miles  south  [of  Roseburg,  follows  the  stream  for 
nine  miles.  The  part  of  this  land  lying  near  Green's  station  is  rolling  and  nearly  bare 
of  timber.  Grazing  and  fai-ming  are  the  main  occupations  of  the  residents,  among 
whom  are  Jepthah  Green,  C.  W.  Smith,  Henry  Lander,  Plinn  Cooper,  J.  B:  Spaur,  J. 
F.  Sheffield  and  C.  Smith.  The  school  district  therein  counts  fifty-seven  pupils. 
Across  the  river  lies  Civil  Bend,  a  place  said  to  have  been  named  in  irony.  In  this 
beautiful  valley  is  Dillard's  station,  around  which  live  a  number  of  old  settlers  :  I\ev. 
J.  Dillard,  raiser  of  10,000  bushels  of  grain  in  1883;  B.  Agee;  W.  P.  Winston,  emi- 
nent as  a  horticulturist ;  B.  B.  Brockway,  J.  M.  Dillard,  D.  Lenox,  V.  Arrington, 
James  Davlin  and  others.  Two  very  neat  and  commodious  school  houses  are  provided 
for  the  hundred  and  ten  pu[)ils  whose  homes  are  in  Civil  Bend. 


4:22  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

Myrtle  Ceeek. — The  land  on  which  Myrtle  Creek  village  now  stands  was  first 
taken  up  by  James  B.  Weaver,  in  1851,  and  sold  during  the  year  to  J.  Bailey,  the 
consideration  being  a  yoke  of  oxen.  In  1852  Mr.  Bailey  sold  to  Lazarus  Wright,  who 
in  turn  conveyed  to  John  Hall,  the  latter  transaction  taking  place  in  1862.  Three 
years  later,  in  1865,  Mr.  Hall  had  the  present  town  site  surveyed  and  divided  into 
lots,  of  which  several  were  sold,  and  buildings  erected  thereon  very  soon  after.  A 
store  had  been  erected  in  1856  by  J.  B.  and  J.  W.  Weaver,  and  in  1860  one  Leneve 
started  another  store,  keeping  therein  the  postoffice.  At  present  there  are  two  stores 
in  Myrtle  Creek,  the  one  owned  by  Marks,  Wollenberg  &  Co.,  built  in  1870  by  Abra- 
ham Selig ;  the  other,  called  the  Farmers'  Mercantile  Establishment,  of  which  F.  M. 
Gabbert  and  H.  Dyer  have  charge.  There  is  a  grist  mill  in  the  village,  owned  by  W. 
Kramer  &  Co.  This  mill  was  built  by  Lazarus  Wright.  Its  capacity  is  forty-five 
barrels  of  flour  daily.  The  same  firm  owns  a  planing  mill,  which  is  attached  to  the 
grist  mill.  There  are  now  two  blacksmith  shops,  and  a  hotel,  that  of  D.  S.  K.  Buick. 
Since  the  railroad  reached  town  a  depot  has  been  erected,  and  also  a  warehouse,  the 
property  of  Messrs.  Hall  and  Selig.  School  facilities  were  provided  by  the  erection  of 
a  school  house  in  1864.  The  Good  Templars  organized  a  lodge  January  17,  1883, 
electing  the  following  officers :  J.  Elliott,  W.  C.  T. ;  Ellen  Gabbert,  W.  V.  T. ;  Mrs. 
S.  A.  Elliott,  W.  C. ;  H.  Dyer,  secretary ;  Jennie  Buick,  W.  A.  S. ;  W.  P.  Berry,  W. 
F.  S.;  Ida  Selig,  W.  T. ;  J.  M.  Hutson,  AV.  M.;  The  members  now  number  forty-eiglit. 
The  Odd  Fellows  instituted  Myrtle  Lodge,  No.  38,  in  1872,  with  J.  M.  Smith,  N.  G.; 
John  Hall,  V.  G.;  S.  Selig,  R.  S.;  Hans  Weaver,  treasurer.  At  present  the  officers 
are  Walter  C.  Buick,  N.  G.;  J.  J.  Chadwick,  V.  G.;  K.  H.  Gabbert,  R.  S.;  John  Nich- 
ols, P.  S. ;  H.  Weaver,  treasurer;  D.  S.  K.  Buick,  John  Hall  and  J.  J.  Chadwick, 
trustees.  The  lodge  is  prospering  finely,  having  now  fifty  members.  A  Rebekah 
Degree  Lodge,  organized  in  1878  with  twenty-five  charter  members,  now  has  thirty, 
with  the  following  officers :  Mrs.  S.  Hall,  N.  G. ;  Mrs.  S.  Selig,  V.  G.;  Mrs.  D.  S.  K. 
Buick,  treasurer ;  D.  S.  K.  Buick,  secretary.  James  Beans,  George  Risch,  Joshua 
Wright  and  G.  J.  Kuns  possess  gold  mines  on  the  North  Myrtle,  some  twelve  miles 
from  the  mouth.     The  gold  is  thought  to  be  plentiful. 

Myrtle  creek  derives  its  name  from  groves  of  myrtle  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  title 
belongs  to  the  creek,  valley  and  village.  This  valley's  length  is  about  five  miles,  and 
width  about  half  a  mile.  It  is  drainnd  by  Myrtle  creek,  which  forks  at  the  village, 
one  branch  being  known  as  North  Myrtle,  the  other  as  South  Myrtle.  The  valley  is_ 
enclosed  by  lofty  hills,  estimated  at  800  feet  altitude  near  the  village.  Dodson's  butte 
is  the  most  prominent  peak.  The  trees  around  the  valley  are  mainly  oak,  but  about 
five  miles  east  of  the  village  the  heavy  timber  belt  is  reached  which  only  ends  at  the 
top  of  the  Cascades.  These  trees  are  mostly  fir,  cedar  and  pine.  They  exist  in  count- 
less numbers,  furnishing  an  almost  inexhaustible  source  of  the  best  of  timber.  Mr. 
Felix  Robinson  owns  a  saw  mill  on  North  Myrtle,  situated  nine  miles  from  the  creek's 
mouth,  which  he  built  in  1872.  It  is  driven  by  a  turbine  wheel,  has  double  circular 
saws,  and  can  cut  about  5,000  feet  daily.  The  amount  of  agricultural  land  is  not 
very  extensive,  but  it  is  of  good  quality,  and  is  adapted  to  raising  wheat,  oats,  barley, 
corn,  etc.  Horses,  cattle  and  hogs  are  raised  in  considerable  numbers.  W.  Kramer 
&  Co.  deal  largely  in  swine,  fattening  at  times  about  500  head.     Grain  raising  is  not 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  423 

extensively  done  owing  to  lack  of  area.  Corn  produces  well,  Mr.  J.  IIuH's  field 
averaging  fifty  bushels  per  acre. 

The  present  condition  of  the  locality  is  prosperous.  The  Oregon  and  California 
railway  furnishing  transportation,  enabling  the  farmers  to  quickly  market  their  pro- 
duce and  receive  returns.  The  most  prominent  farmers  in  and  near  Myrtle  are  Hans 
Weaver,  Henry  Adams,  J.  W.  Weaver,  Joseph  Cornelison,  J.  J.  Chadwick,  John 
Arzner,  Edward  Weaver,  Henry  Jones,  Henry  Wiley,  Jefferson  Wiley,  John  Hall 
and  others.  No  one  is  esjjecially  interested  in  fruit  growing,  yet  many  have  fine 
orchards  in  which  a  considerable  variety  of  fruits  flourish.  As  regards  the  adapta- 
bility of  the  climate  and  soil  to  diflFerent  species,  it  may  be  remarked  that  a  lady,  Mrs. 
W.  B.  Drake,  of  Myrtle  Creek  village,  has  cultivated,  it  is  said,  no  less  than  900 
varieties  of  flowering  and  ornamental  plants,  all  succeeding  admirably.  In  fact  not 
one  yet  tried  but  has  succeeded. 

Claims  were  taken  on  Myrtle  creek  as  early  as  1851,  and  in  the  following  two 
years  H.  Jones,  H.  Wiley,  G.  Phillips,  L.  Phillips,  H.  Adams,  and  G.  Milligan  came. 
Another  matter  of  history  is  the  Indian  troubles  of  185G,  when  Indians  made  raids 
through  the  vicinity,  burning  and  plundering.  A  few  Cow  Creek  savages  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1856  passed  over  the  mountains  west  of  Myrtle  creek,  then  down  the  river  to 
Oak  Grove,  where  they  attacked  James  Weaver  and  William  Russell,  wounding  the 
latter.  They  then  set  fire  to  James  Bean's  buildings,  destroying  them,  and  proceeded 
to  Clark's  branch  of  the  North  Myrtle,  where  they  wounded  a  man  named  Clink. 
They  shot  the  stock  of  settlers,  and  created  all  possible  damage.  The  circumstances  of 
their  attack  on  Messrs.  Weaver  and  Russell  are  these  :  These  gentlemen  were  coming 
from  Roseburg,  and  while  passing  over  the  grade  on  the  old  military  road  just  south 
of  Oak  Grove,  they  were  fired  ujjon  by  the  hostiles.  Plunging  forward  they  suc- 
ceeded in  making  their  escape,  Mr.  Weaver  sustaining  no  injury,  while  his  less 
fortunate  companion  received  seven  wounds,  some  of  which  were  very  painful,  but 
none  fatal.     A  dozen  Indians  were  in  the  party. 

MissouKi  Bottom. — Missouri  Bottom  is  a  sort  of  valley  situated  half  a  milefi-om 
Myrtle  Creek.  It  derives  its  title  from  the  fact  of  its  first  settlers  being  from  the  state 
of  that  name.  It  is  five  miles  long  and  will  average  one-fourth  as  much  in  width, 
The  surrounding  mountains  have  no  especial  designation.  They  rise  to  commanding 
heights,  the  greatest  elevation  being  not  less  than  1,300  feet.  There  is  little  timber  in 
the  valley,  but  the  hills  are  covered  with  oaks  and  plenty  of  fir  timber  exists  near  by. 
The  soil  is  chiefly  a  sandy  loam,  derived  by  deposition  from  the  South  Umpqua,  which 
runs  through  the  valley.  This  loam  is  very  fertile,  producing  abundantly  of  cereals, 
vetables  and  fruit.  The  valley  was  settled  in  1851  by  H.  Adams,  John  Adams. 
John  Adams,  Jr.,  J.  B.  Williams,  and  J.  W.  Weaver.  At  this  time  there  was  no 
house  in  Douglas  county  to  the  south  of  the  North  Umpqua,  says  Mr.  H.  Adams. 

Cow  Creek  Valley  and  Riddle. — The  valley  of  Cow  creek  is  about  six  miles 
in  length  by  one  and  one-half  in  width,  and  its  comi)aratively  level  surface  is  drained 
by  the  stream  of  that  name,  which  flows  into  the  South  Umpqua,  the  latter  stream  run- 
ning along  the  east  side  of  the  valley.  The  surrounding  elevations  are  known  as  the 
Cow  creek  mountains.  The  trees  of  the  surrounding  region  are  chiefly  fir,  pine,  oak, 
cedar  and  madrone.     The  soil  of  the  valley  is  chiefly  a  rich  black  alluvium,  known  as 


424  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

bottom  lauds,  and  is  well  adapted  to  general  agriculture.  Wheat,  oats,  corn,  barley 
and  all  kinds  of  vegetables  are  prolific.  There  is  considerable  stock  owned  in  the  val- 
ley, a  portion  of  which  is  of  imported  strains  of  pure  blood. 

The  name  Cow  creek  is  said  to  have  been  bestowed  upon  this  stream  because  of 
the  following  incident:  An  emigrant  named  Baker  was  entering  Oregon  by  the 
.southern  route,  and  camping  one  night  near  the  site  of  Canyonville,  the  Indians  stole 
his  cattle.  In  the  morning  he  set  out  in  search  of  his  lost  stock,  and  soon  found  all 
but  one  peacefully  grazing  in  this  quiet  valley.  The  missing  one  had  tickled  the  pal- 
ates of  the  natives.  The  first  settlers  along  Cow  creek  came  in  1851,  W.  G.  Hearn 
leading  the  van  early  in  the  spring  and  taking  the  first  donation  claim.  The  first 
family  came  the  same  spring,  being  that  of  William  H.  Riddle,  followed  soon  by  that 
of  John  Catching,  Other  arrivals  of  the  year  were  I.  B.  Nichols  and  John  Smith. 
By  the'  close  of  1852,  nearly  all  the  tillable  lands  were  claimed.  Other  old-comers 
and  jirominent  residents  of  the  valley  are  :  W.  L.  Wilson,  J.  Russell,  Noah  Cornutt 
Hardy  Ellilf,  M.  Dean,  Watson  Mynatt,  Jefferson  Dyer,  Abner  Riddle,  G.  W.  Rid- 
dle, J.  B.  Riddle,  J.  D.  Cornutt,  G.  W.  Colvig  and  J.  D.  Johnson. 

In  1882  the  Oregon  and  California  railroad  began  extending  its  line  south  from 
Roseburg,  and  soon  reached  Cow  creek.  J.  B.  and  A.  Riddle  donated  land  in  the 
very  heart  of  the  valley  for  a  town  site,  and  a  depot  was  located  upon  it.  The  little 
town  which  instantly  sprung  up  was  named  Riddle  (often  called  Riddleburg),  and  for 
several  months  remained  the  southern  operating  terminus  of  the  road.  During  that 
time  the  place  was  "  lively  "  in  the  broadest  significance  of  the  term,  and  its  like  the 
peaceful  citizens  of  Cow  creek  valley  hope  never  to  witness  again.  With  the  extension 
of  the  road  and  the  departure  of  the  horde  which  infested  the  terminus,  Riddle  became 
more  subdued,  and  has  taken  its  proper  position  as  a  thriving  village  and  shipjiing  point 
for  a  small  but  very  prosperous  community.  There  are  two  hotels  kept  by  J.  B.  Rid- 
dle and  W.  B.  Wilson,  the  latter  of  whom  has  a  stock  of  groceries,  a  store  by  J.  D. 
Johnson,  and  a  warehouse  by  S.  Abraham.  A  steam  saw  mill  has  just  been  erected 
by  Hans  Weaver.  There  is  one  school  house  in  which,  also,  religious  services  are 
held ;  the  Methodists,  Baptists  and  Southern  Methodists  have  church  organizations. 
The  Indians  in  the  vicinity  were  known  as  the  Cow  Creek  Indians,  and  spoke  the 
Rogue  River  language.  In  1853,  subsequent  to  the  hostilities  of  that  year,  a  treaty 
was  made  with  them  by  Joel  L.  Palmer,  the  agent,  and  General  Joseph  Lane,  by  which 
they  relinquished  all  claim  to  the  valley  except  the  upper  part  for  a  residence,  and 
the  falls  of  the  creek  for  fishing  purposes,  reserving  the  right  to  hunt  in  the  mountains. 
For  this  they  were  given  oxen  and  seed  grain,  with  which  they  cultivated  the  ground 
to  some  extent  the  next  two  seasons.  The  little  stream  on  whose  banks  this  treaty 
was  made  is  known  as  Council  creek.  In  1855  these  savages  joined  the  Rogue  River 
hostiles,  starting  in  December  from  the  big  bend  of  Cow  creek  upon  the  raid  through 
Civil  Bend,  Ten  Mile,  Olalla  and  Looking-glass  elsewhere  spoken  of  Their  oxen  were 
used  for  food  by  the  volunteers,  and  the  grain  they  had  raised  that  year  was  fed  by 
these  militiamen  to  their  horses.  The  settlers  in  the  valley  all  "forted  up"  during 
the  war,  no  attempt  being  made  to  disturb  them,  except  in  the  case  of  John  Catching. 
Him  they  attacked  three  times,  and  each  time  he  purchased  a  temporary  immunity  by 
making  them  presents.     In  a  few  days  his  neighbors,  who  had  been  absent  from  th  e 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  425 

valley,  returned,  and  the  savages  withdrew.  After  the  war  the  Indians  were  removed 
to  a  distant  reservation,  and  Cow  creek  was  thereafter  free  from  their  dangerous  pres- 
ence. Considerable  mining  of  a  diversified  character  is  carried  along  Cow  creek  and 
in  the  vicinity  placer  mines  owned  by  John  Catching  and  W.  L.  AVilson  have  been 
extensively  worked  for  several  years.  Lewis  Ash  and  James  McWilliams  have  a  mine 
in  which  they  are  using  a  nine-inch  hydraulic  giant,  fed  by  a  ditch  thirty-two  inches 
'  wide  and  thirty-four  deep.  These  mines  are  all  yielding  well.  Copper  is  found  on 
W.  H.  Riddle's  place,  and  an  iron  mine  is  owned  by  0.  K.  P.  and  J.  W.  Cain.  A 
nickel  mine  is  being  worked  with  good  results  on  a  neighboring  mountain  called  "Old 
Piney." 

Canyonville. — The  town  of  Canyonville  has  always  been  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant stations  on  the  Oregon  and  California  stage  road,  and  lies  in  the  historic  canyon 
which  has  so  often  been  alluded  to  in  these  pages.  The  town  lies  at  an  altitude  of  7Go 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  summit  of  the  Canyon  mountains  surrounding- 
it  is  1,850  feet,  the  highest  altitude,  that  of  Canyonville  peak,  being  2,910  feet.  Near 
the  town  and  extending  along  the  river  for  several  miles  is  a  large  body  of  excellent 
agricultural  land,  which  has  been  cultivated  successfully  for  many  years.  The  soil  is 
the  rich  alluvium  peculiar  to  these  bottom  lands,  and  yields  prolifically.  Squashes 
exceeding  100  j^ounds  in  weight  are  not  uncommon,  and  one  reaching  142 i  pounds 
was  raised  by  Hon.  J.  Fullerton.  Wheat,  oats,  barley  and  corn  are  the  stajile  products 
and  all  give  a  large  average  yield.  The  first  settlers  upon  these  fertile  acres  were 
John  Fullerton,  J.  F.  Gazley,  S.  B.  Briggs,  I.  Boyle,  and  Mr.  Beckworth,  who  all 
came  in  1851,  and  who,  with  the  exception  of  Messrs.  Briggs  and  Beckworth,  still 
reside  here. 

In  1852  the  site  of  C'anyonville  was  marked  simply  by  a  log  house  and  a  l)Iack- 
smith  shop.  Jackson  Reynolds  was  the  first  claimant  of  the  laud,  and  a  man  nameil 
Knott  the  second.  Mr.  Reynolds  and  Joseph  Roberts  purchased  Knott's  claim,  and 
subsequently  sold  to  Jesse  Roberts.  A  town  was  laid  out  in  1858,  and  in  18(53  S. 
Marks  purchased  the  entire  property  at  administrator's  sale.  Since  then  Canyonville 
has  steadily  advanced,  two  additions  having  been  made  to  the  town  site.  There  are 
two  mercantile  establishments.  William  Manning  is  the  successor  successively  of 
Marks,  Sideraan  &  Co.,  purchasers  in  1863,  Toklas,  Baden  &  Co,  and  Riddle  &  Man- 
ning. The  store  occupied  by  H  Wollenberg  &  Bros.  Wiis  built  by  S.  Abraham,  who 
sold  it  to  D.  A.  Levins.  Mr.  Wollenberg  purchased  it  in  1883.  He  also  ha?  a  ware- 
house and  deals  in  grain.  D.  C.  ]McCarty  has  a  drug  store,  H.  Caldwell  a  butcher 
shop,  D.  A.  Levins,  W.  Worley  and  Mrs.  Blackwood  keep  hotels,  J.  Xoland,  1).  A. 
Levins  and  S.  Thomas  have  feed  stables,  William  Hackler,  and  Arzner  &  Bealman 
have  blacksmith  shops,  and  there  arc  a  hardware  and  tin  shop,  cabinet  shop,  and  wagon 
shop. 

In  Canyonville  is  a  grist  mill  owned  l)y  A.  F.  Schultz,  with  a  daily  ca[)acity  of 
twenty-four  barrels  of  flour.  Near  the  town  is  another  mill  of  twenty  barrels'  capacity, 
owned  by  D.  A.  Levins.  On  Canyon  creek,  three  miles  east  of  town,  is  a  saw  mill 
owned  by  Pickett  &  Wilson.  It  was  built  in  1873,  and  cuts  200,000  feet  annually  of 
fir  and  cedar,   principally  the  former.      Two    miles    further,  the    same    stream  al.so 


426  SOUTHEEN  OREGON. 

furnishes  power  for  another  mill  producing  300,000  feet  per  annum.  This  is  the 
property  of  J.  Packard. 

The  region  surrounding  Canyonville  is  embraced  in  one  school  district  which  jios- 
sesses  a  school  house.  The  Methodists  have  a  church  edifice,  in  which,  also,  other 
denominations  hold  occasional  services.  A  dispensation  was  granted  by  the  Oregon 
Grand  Lodge,  F.  &  A.  M.,  in  April,  1879,  to  organize  a  subordinate  lodge  at  Canyon- 
ville, and  a  charter  was  granted  in  July.  The  lodge  was  organized  by  C.  H.  Merrick, 
Danton  Hamblin,  Charles  Bealman,  Charles  Patchin,  James  E.  Blundell,  J.  L.  Arzner, 
L.  D.  Montgomery,  and  Thomas  Wilson.  Douglas  Lodge,  No.  19, 1.  O.  O.  F.,  was 
chartered  May  12,  1866,  with  Joel  Thorn,  David  Eansora,  Danton  Hamblin,  Charles 
Kimmel,  and  J.  L.  Arzner  as  charter  members. 

Glendale. — One  of  the  new  railroad  towns  of  Douglas  county  is  Glendale,  situ- 
ated in  the  extreme  southern  limit  of  the  county,  ten  miles  southwest  of  the  Canyon 
and  forty-five  south  of  Eoseburg.  It  was  laid  out  in  the  spring  of  1883,  on  the 
pre-emption  claim  of  L.  D.  Montgomery,  the  Oregon  and  California  road  having  been 
constructed  that  far  on  its  way  south.  Originally  the  town  was  called  Montgomery, 
and  later  Julia,  in  honor  of  Mrs.  Sol.  Abraham,  which  title  was  first  borne  by  the  jjost- 
ofiice.  Glendale  was  first  used  by  the  railroad,  and  in  consequence  became  the  one  by 
which  it  was  generally  known.  During  the  few  months  it  was  the  operating  terminus 
of  the  road,  Glendale  was  infested  by  a  class  of  rough  characters,  which  soon  left  it  to 
follow  the  fortunes  of  new  terminal  points.  Abraham,  Wheeler  &  Co.  oi^ened  the  first 
store  in  May,  1883.  Glendale  is  now  a  small  but  prosperous  shipping  and  supply 
point,  and  a  station  of  considerable  importance  on  the  road. 


CHAPTER    LI. 


LOCALITIES  NORTH,  NORTHWEST  AND  NORTHEAST  OF  ROSEBURG. 

Cole's  Valley— Umpqua  Ferry— Hubbard  Creek— Cleveland  or  Good's  Mill— French  Settlement— Oakland— Drain 
Winchester— Garden  Valley— Myrtle  Point—  Yoncalla— Elkton — Scottsburg— Gardiner— Wilbur. 

Cole's  Valley. — This  pleasant  valley  is  situated  near  the  central  part  of  Douglas 
county.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Umpqua  river  and  Mount  Tyee,  a  name 
given  this  m(juntain  by  the  Indians  and  meaning  large  or  chief  This  mountain  was 
the  resort  of  the  Indians  in  time  of  war,  as  from  it  they  could  see  much  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  South  of  the  valley  is  found  the  Woodruff  mountain,  a  large  mass 
oF  rocks,  and  west  is  the  Coast  Kange,  and  east  the  Calapooias.  The  valley  is  divided 
by  the  LTmpqua,  which  flows  through  it  in  a  northwesterly  direction.  The  soil  is 
good ;  wheat,  even  after  long  cropping,  produces  an  average  of  twenty  bushels  per 
acre;  oats  and  barley,  thirty  each ;  corn,  from  forty  to  sixty  bushels. 


DOrGLAS  COUNTY.  427 

West  of  Cole's  valley  lies  a  curiously  rough  and  broken  region  nearly  covered  by 
a  section  of  the  Coast  Eange,  termed  here  the  Umj^iqua  mountains.  Upon  this  eastern 
slope,  and  intruding  upon  the  western  edge  of  Cole's  valley,  the  almost  unbroken  sea 
of  firs  begins,  which  only  ends  at  Coos  bay  and  the  shore  of  the  Pacific.  The  timber  ot 
the  valley  is  mainly  composed  of  oaks,  maples  and  underbrush,  and  grows  upon  the 
elevations.  A  large  amount  of  fine  farming  land  is  entirely  free  from  trees  and  under- 
brush, and  is  very  valuable  and  highly  esteemed  for  purposes  of  general  farming. 

The  valley  received  its  name  from  Dr.  James  Cole,  who  was  the  first  settler,  and 
who  still  resides  near  by.  The  doctor  settled  here  in  1851,  and  began  practicing  his 
jtrofession.  The  valley  was  then  called  the  Big  Bottom,  but  later  received  its  present 
name.  Following  Dr.  Cole  came  George  Deeper  and  H.  B.  Flournoy,  and  later  John 
EuMnitt,  William  Churchill,  Samuel  D.  Evans  and  others.  By  the  time  of  the  Indian 
wars  quite  a  number  of  people  had  located  in  Cole's  valley,  including  several  who  still 
reside  there.  In  those  troublous  times  some  alarm  was  experienced,  but  no  hostilities 
actually  took  place  in  the  vicinity.  Everybody  capable  of  bearing  arms  put  himself 
in  a  posture  of  defense,  but  the  cloud  passed  by  without  bloodshed.  At  present  the 
valley  is  inhabited  by  a  prosperous  community  of  farmers,  whose  princijial  occupation 
is  grain  raising.  Among  these  George  Shambrook  is  chief  as  regards  the  extent  of  his 
agricultural  operations,  as  he  annually  cultivates  800  acres.  Messrs.  John  Emmitt,  F. 
Fortin  and  D.  T.  Thompson  also  engage  largely  in  wheat  raising,  plowing  yearly  100 
acres  or  more.  Pleasantly  located  in  the  northwestern  part  pf  the  valley  is  a  school 
house,  where  for  six  or  seven  months  each  year  the  pupils  assemble.  Sixty-five  are 
enrolled.  Mr.  Thomas,  the  present  teacher,  an  experienced  and  gentlemanly  instructor, 
has  taught  in  Cole's  valley  and  its  vicinity  for  over  five  years. 

Umpqua  Fekky  is  the  name  of  a  village  and  post-office  in  Cole's  valley.  The 
post-ofiice  was  established  in  1873  with  George  Shambrook  as  postmaster.  The  name 
was  changed  for  a  time  to  Cole's  Valley  post-office,  but  the  original  title  was  after- 
wards restored  to  it.  Mr.  Shambrook  owns  a  store  of  general  merchandise  in  the  place. 
There  is  a  blacksmith  shop  and  once  a  gunsmith  shop  fiourished,  kept  by  Messrs.  Barr 
Brothers. 

Hubbard  Ceeek. — Hubbard  creek  is  a  good-sized  stream  which  rises  in  the 
Umpqua  mountains,  runs  northeasterly,  and  empties  into  the  Umpqua  just  below 
Cole's  valley.  It  is  a  beautiful  and  romantic  stream,  of  the  coolest  and  clearest  of 
water,  and  wends  its  way  through  a  densely  wooded  canyon  between  long  spurs  of  the 
mountains.  Some  few  clearings  have  been  made  along  the  quiet  banks,  and  a  small 
community  of  timber-cutters,  shingle  makers  and  woodsmen  generally,  live  hereabouts, 
supporting  themselves  by  their  toil  amid  the  forests.  W.  B.  Clarke,  with  Baker,  his 
l^artner,  has  a  saw  mill  half  a  mile  above  the  creek's  mouth,  where  various  qualities  of 
lumber  are  made.  Circular  saws  cut  6,000  feet  per  day  in  times  of  suflScient  water ; 
planing  machines  and  the  usual  turners  and  edgers  complete  the  outfit.  The  mill  is 
accessible  over  a  rough  road  from  the  valley,  which  it  supplies  with  lumber,  nKjstly 
fir,  used  for  fencing,  house  building,  etc.  Further  up  stream  is  a  shingle  mill.  Above 
it  still  is  found  a  very  large  amount  of  standing  timber  of  excellent  (piality,  mainly  fir 
and  cedar. 


428  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

Cleveland,  oe  Good's  Mill,  is  situated  upon  the  Umpqua  river  two  miles  below 
the  junction  of  the  North  and  South  Umpqua,  and  four  miles  south  of  Cole's  valley. 
It  has  a  jjost  office,  general  merchandise  store  and  flouring  mill,  all  kept  by  Mr.  F.  M. 
Good.  The  post  office  was  established  in  1875,  at  about  which  time  the  mill,  a  sub- 
stantial structure  containing  one  run  of  buhrs,  was  built.  Surrounding  Cleveland  is  a 
belt  of  land  mostly  adapted  to  grazing  but  with  some  farming  country  on  which  several 
thrifty  ranchers  dwell.  The  locality  is  a  pleasant  one  and  is  mainly  watered  by  Mill 
creek,  a  small  stream  which  runs  through  the  village,  rising  in  the  Coast  Range  and 
running  into  the  Umpqua.  There  is  a  school  house  located  here,  built  in  1872. 
George  B.  Yale  kept  the  first  school.  The  district  now  has  forty-eight  pupils  enrolled 
and  the  term  of  school  is  six  months  annually. 

Feestch  Settlement. — The  community  known  as  the  French  Settlement  inhabits  a 
tract  of  laud  belonging  to  Cole's  valley  precinct,  and  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  Coast 
Range,  about  eight  miles  northwest  from  Roseburg.  The  tract  is  bounded  on  the  east 
side  by  the  South  Umpqua  and  surrounded  on  other  sides  by  spurs  of  the  Coast  Range. 
The  land  is  fertile ;  grain  of  all  kinds  grows  well  and  fruit  attains  remarkably  fine 
flavor.  The  locality  is  protected  by  the  heights  of  land  surrounding  it  and  in  many 
ways  enjoys  high  advantages.  The  entire  tract  is  four  miles  by  one  and  a  half  miles 
and  is  watered  by  a  small  stream  known  as  Champagne's  creek.  The  surrounding  hills 
and  mountains  furnish  feed  for  cattle  and  other  domestic  animals,  while  the  plow  lands 
produce  abundant  and  certain  crops. 

Thomas  Flournoy  first  settled  in  this  valley  in  1850,  but  soon  abandoning  it  he 
was  succeeded  by  A.  B.  Culver,  now  of  Coos  county.  Within  a  year  or  two  certain 
people  of  French  extraction  settled  in  the  valley,  giving  it  its  present  name.  Their 
coming  is  thus  accounted  for;  Mr.  H.  B.  Flournoy,  returning  from  the  California  mines 
in  1851  induced  a  number  of  French  Canadians  to  accompany  him  and  settle  in  the 
valley  adjoining  that   which  goes  by  his  name.     The  names  of  these  people  were 

Francois  Archambeau,  Joseph  Champagne,   Gouler  and  David  Grenot.     Mr. 

Gouler  died  about  1862.  About  a  year  after  their  arrival  their  nuinbers  were  increased 
by  the  coming  of  several  of  their  fellow  countrymen,  Narcisse  Laraut,  Ferdinande  La 
Brie,  Charles  La  Pointe,  M.  M.  Moran  et  Fozet  and  Ferdinand  Fortin.  Most  of  these 
gentlemen  still  reside  within  the  settlement  where  they  live  honored  and  useful  lives. 
All  those  named  except  David  Grenot  were  Canadian  French,  the  exception  being 
European  born. 

Oakland. — The  thriving  town  of  Oakland  is  situated  on  the  line  of  the  Oregon 
&  California  road  sixteen  miles  north  of  Roseburg,  and  is  one  of  the  most  prosperous 
communities  in  the  county.  Surrounding  it  is  a  large  area  of  agricultural  and  grazing 
land,  for  which  it  is  the  shipping  and  supply  point.  There  are  two  town  sites,  one  of 
them,  now  known  as  the  "Old  Town,"  being  the  original  business  center.  This  town 
was  situated  in  an  oak  grove,  which  inspired  the  title  it  bears. 

In  1851,  Dr.  Dorsey  S.  Baker,  now  a  capitalist  of  Walla  Walla,  settled  here  and 
built  a  residence,  store  and  grist  mill.  In  1857,  he  sold  the  mill  and  a  greater  portion 
of  the  land  to  E.  S.  Young,  who  still  resides  in  Oakland.  The  same  year  Lord  it 
Peters  opened  another  store,  and  Mr.  Whitmore  built  a  hotel.  Other  settlers  at  that 
time  were  Messrs.  Butler,  S.  Wheeler,  — .  Banks,  J.  L.  Gilbert  and  others.     Quite  a 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY  429 

town  sprung  up  at  Oakland,  and,  about  1860,  a  small  school  house  was  erected,  which 
was  supi^lanted  in  1808  by  the  commodious  structure  now  standing  there.  Oakland 
continued  to  grow  until  1872,  when  a  revolution  was  made  in  its  affairs  by  the  appear- 
ance of  the  Oregon  &  California  railroad,  which  passed  some  distance  to  one  side  of 
the  town.  A  depot  was  located  and  three  of  the  four  stores  then  doing  business  in  the 
town — Crane  &  Pike,  Abraham  Bros.,  and  Marks  &  Zeliusky — removed  to  the  new 
location.  Young  &  Vail  remained  in  the  "old  town"  until  1878,  when  E.  G.  Young, 
being  sole  proprietor  of  this  store,  also  moved  to  the  present  town,  which  had  then 
become  a  place  of  considerable  importance.  The  mill  still  remains  at  the  old  location 
and  is  the  property  of  Eubanks  &  Batty.  It  is  operated  by  William  "Wheeler,  and 
has  a  daily  capacity  of  twenty  barrels  of  flour. 

The  present  town  of  Oakland  stands  on  parts  of  the  donation  claims  of  Resin 
Reed,  8r.,  and  L.  H.  Crow.  Crow  sold  to  Thomas  Banks  and  James  Smith,  who  in 
turn  conveyed  to  G.  Mehl.  Reed  sold  the  north  half  of  his  claim  to  C.  H.  Bennett.  In 
1871  A.  F.  Brown  purchased  all  these  claims  and  James  Sterling's  homestead  of  240 
acres,  and  upon  this  land  the  railroad  company  located  its  depot.  Oakland  remained 
the  terminus  of  the  road  for  about  six  months,  during  which  time  it  was  an  exceed- 
ingly lively  place.  The  town  has  gradually  expanded  with  the  development  of  the 
surrounding  country,  and  now  contains  three  general  stores,  two  hotels,  one  boot  and 
shoe  sho]!,  one  harness  shop  and  livery  stable,  three  churches,  one  academy,  and  a 
number  of  neat  and  comfortable  residences.  Chenewoth,  Stearns  &  Co.  occup}'  a  brick 
building,  which  was  erected  in  1873  by  J.  E.  Pike.  The  present  firm  purchased  it  in 
1883  from  R.  Smith  &  Co.,  successors  of  Mr.  Pike.  A  warehouse  and  steam  cleaner 
are  used  in  connection  with  the  store.  The  building  occuiiied  by  A.  F.  Brown  was 
built  in  the  old  town  in  1869  by  Abraham  &  Bros.,  and  removed  to  its  present  loca- 
tion in  1872.  Mr.  Brown  became  a  partner  in  1875,  and  in  1883  became  sole  pro- 
})rietor.  He  has  a  warehouse  for  storing  grain  and  wool.  The  store  of  E.  G.  Young- 
ct  Co.  was  founded  in  1868  in  the  original  town  by  Young,  Vail  &  Co.  In  1872  Mr. 
Young  purchased  Mr.  Vail's  interest  and  in  1878  moved  the  building  to  Oakland. 
The  firm  deals  largely  in  grain,  and  owns  a  warehouse.  Taylor  &  Hall's  hardware 
store  was  founded  as  a  general  merchandise  store  by  Wheeler  Bros.,  and  was  purchased 
by  its  present  proprietors  in  1879.  J.  H.  Shupe  opened  a  variety  store  in  1878,  and 
in  1871  formed  a  partnership  with  Dr.  J.  C.  Shambrook,  and  embarked  in  the  drug, 
grocery  and  notion  trade  under  the  firm  name  of  J.  H.  Shupe  &  Co.  Wells,  Fargo 
&  Co.'s  express  office  is  located  in  this  store.  The  drug  and  variety  store  of  Page  & 
Dimick  was  founded  by  Venable  &  Nudley.  In  1877  the  firm  became  Page  &  Yen- 
able.  The  new  store  building  was  built  by  them  in  1882.  Subseciueutly  Z.  Dimick 
became  a  partner  upon  the  death  of  Mr.  Venable.  G.  B.  Barr's  sadtllery  establishment 
was  opened  in  April,  1883.  Wm.  Moore  is  proprietor  of  the  boot  and  shoe  shop, 
John  Beckley  of  the  livery  stable,  and  R.  Thomas  and  J.  Smith  of  the  hotels. 

Until  1881  the  old  and  new  towns  w^ere  comprehended  in  one  district,  since  when 
they  have  been  distinct.  Oakland  has  no  school  building,  but  the  public  money  was 
devoted  to  the  Oakland  Academy,  where  a  public  school  is  taught  independently  of 
the  ordinary  course.  This  institution  was  founded  in  1880,  by  Prof  G.  T.  Russell,  a 
graduate  of   Harvard.      Three  sessions  are  held  each  year,  and  three  teachers  are 


SOUTHERN  OREGON. 


employed,  this  number,  upon  occasion,  being  increased  to  five.  There  are  five  church 
organizations,  which,  in  connection  with  the  school  and  academy,  indicate  a  high  moral 
and  intellectual  standard  in  the  community.  The  Baptist,  Methodist  Episcopal,  and 
Episcopal  denominations  have  church  edifices,  while  the  Presbyterians  and  Southern 
Methodists  hold  services  frequently. 

The  Masons  and  Odd  Fellows  each  have  organizations  in  Oakland.  Winchester 
Lodge,  No.  16,  F.  &  A.  I\I.,  the  first  in  the  county,  was  organized  August  1,  1857,  at 
Winchester,  with  the  following  officers  :  L.  F.  Mosher,  W.  M. ;  J.  J.  Patton,  S.  W. ; 
James  Odle,  J.  W. ;  W.  J.  Martin,  Treas.;  L.  P.  Brown,  Sec.  ;  R.  P.  Daniels,  S.  D. 
The  lodge  was  granted  a  dispensation  to  move  to  Oakland  in  the  spring  of  18(30,  where 
the  first  meeting  was  held  on  the  first  of  March.  In  1862  the  charter  was  surrendered 
because  nearly  all  the  members  had  left  the  place  to  work  in  the  mines.  At  that  time 
D.  C.  Underwood  was  W.  M. ;  W.  H.  Brackett,  S.  W. ;  R.  C.  Underwood,  J.  W. ;  L. 
P.  Brown,  Sec. ;  W.  Hotchkiss,  Tyler.  In  1872,  the  grand  lodge  of  Oregon  granted 
a  dispensation  to  organize  Oakland  Lodge,  No.  16,  F.  &  A.  M.,  and  this  was  effected 
on  the  nineteenth  of  July,  with  officers  as  follows:  A.  F.  Brown,  W.  M. :  J.  W. 
Johnson,  J.  W. ;  T.  Barnard,  Treas. ;  J.  B.  Smith,  Sec.  ;  C.  D.  Dearling,  S.  D. ;  J.  W. 
Howard,  J.  D. ;  A.  J.  Chapman,  Tyler,  Stated  convocations  are  held  in  the  hall  over 
Page  &  Dimick's  store.  The  officers  for  1883  were :  R.  Smith,  W.  M.  ;  William 
Stephens,  S.  W. ;  D.  W.  Stearns,  J.  W. ;  A.  F.  Brown,  Treas. ;  G.  T.  Russell,  Sec. ; 
M.  Partin,  Tyler.  Umpqua  Lodge,  No.  47,  I.  O.  O.  F.,  was  organized  April  10,  1872, 
by  the  following  charter  members  :  H.  Abraham,  N.  G. ;  George  Coun,  V.  G. ;  J.  E. 
P'ike,  R.  S.  ;  W.  S.  Pinkston,  Treas. ;  S.  W.  Miser,  J.  R.  Dodge,  S.  Abraham,  H. 
Zelinsky,  J.  W.  Howard,  G.  R.  Ellison,  James  A.  Sterling,  H.  C.  Dimick  and  F.  A. 
Metz.  The  lodge  has  now  a  membership  of  twenty-six,  and  meets  in  the  hall  over 
A.  F.  Brown's  store.  The  officers  for  1883  were :  F.  A.  Metz,  N.  G. ;  M.  Partin,  V. 
G. ;  G.  A.  Taylor,  R.  S. ;  J.  Dodge,  Treas. 

Oakland  became  an  incorporated  city  by  the  act  of  the  legislature  in  1878,  and 
the  elections  held  each  year  have  resulted  in  choosing  the  following  officers  : 


TRUSTEES.* 

RECORDER. 

TREASURER. 

MARSHAL. 

1878 Ij.  D.  McKinnon,  E.  J.  Page.  L.  A.  Pike, 

G.  R.  Sacry,  J.  N.  Shupe. 

P.  C,  Parker. 

M.  H.  Hobart. 

.\.  R.  Patton. 

1879 

J.  R.  Redman,  L.  C.  Wheeler,  James  Haz- 
elton,  William  Hargan,  Jas.  C.  Young. 

George  Settle. 

Paul  Renhaven. 

.Mex.  Hobart. 

1880 

J.  H.  Shupe,  R.  Smith,  G.  A.  Taylor.  J. 
\V.  Canaday,  George  F.  Merriman. 

A.  F.  Brown. 

L.  A.   Pike. 

J.  B.  Murray. 

1881 

J.  H.  Shupe,  R.  Smith,  J.  \V.  Canaday, 
E.  C.  Sacry,  C.  M.  Hall. 

George  Settle.                  L.  A.  Pike. 

J.  W.  Norwood. 

1882 'j.  H.  Shupe,  A.  G.  Young,  W.  F.  Kerley, 

1     Geo.  R.  Sacryt,  William  K.  Hanna. 

R.   Smith. 

L.  A.  Pike. 

John  S.  Beckley. 

18S3 A.  G.  Young,  J.  C.    Hutchinson,    G.  A. 

Taylor,  Geary  Young.  George  Barr. 

J.  H.  Shupe. 

Z.  Dimick. 

John  S.  Beckley. 

*     The  one  first  named  was  president  of  the  board. 

t     Failed  to  qualify,  and  James  Chenewoth  chosen  to  the  vacancy. 

Oakland  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  splendid  agricultural  region,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
prosperous  of  the  younger  towns  of  Oregon.  Its  growth  has  been  slow  but  steady  and 
permanent,  keeping  pace  with  the  development   of  its  surroundings.     Its  business    is 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  431 

established  on  a  firm  basis,  and  is  gracUially  increasing.  As  a  place  of  residence  it  is 
very  desirable,  both  on  account  of  its  pleasant  location  and  its  agreeable  inhabitants. 

Dkain. — One  of  the  most  important  business  centers  of  Douglas  county  is  Drain,  a 
station  on  the  Oregon  and  California  railroad  thirty-six  miles  northerly  of  Rosebnrg 
and  twenty  miles  north  from  Oakland.  It  is,  also,  the  point  from  which  stages  run  to 
Scottsburg,  Gardiner  and  other  coast  points.  The  town  lies  on  Pass  creek  near  its 
junction  with  Elk  creek.  It  is  some  twelve  miles  south  of  the  boundary  line  of  Lane 
county,  and  is  the  shipping  point  for  an  extensive  region.  The  greater  portion  of  the 
laud  in  the  immediate  vicinity  is  used  for  grazing  puriioses.  The  town  lies  in  a  canyon* 
and  the  surrounding  hills  furnish  good  grass  and  i^lenty  of  timber.  On  the  east  is  the 
fertile  Scott's  valley,  on  the  north  Pass  creek  canyon,  on  the  west  Putnam  valley  and 
other  agricultural  districts,  and  on  the  south  a  portion  of  Yoncalla  valley,  all  tributary 
to  Drain.  Northeast,  northwest  and  southwest  is  a  considerable  area  of  government 
and  railroad  land  valuable  for  grazing,  timber  and  farming  purposes,  as  yet  unsurveyed 
and  unsettled. 

The  site  of  the  town  was  first  settled  upon  in  1847,  by  Warren  X.  Goodell,  who 
took  up  a  donation  claim  of  320  acres.  This  was  purchased  in  1858,  by  Jesse  Apple- 
gate,  who  sold  it  in  1860  to  Charles  Drain  for  farming  and  agricultural  purjioses. 
When  the  Oregon  and  California  railroad  reached  this  point  in  1872,  in  its  progress 
southward,  it  was  surveyed  and  platted  for  a  town,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  Charles 
and  John  C.  Drain,  who  donated  to  the  company  the  sixty  acres  upon  which  the  town 
was  laid  out.  Two  stores  were  at  once  built  by  J.  W.  Krewson  and  C.  E.  Tracy,  also 
a  hall  which  was  used  for  a  church,  school-room  and  other  purposes  until  1882.  Drain 
has  grown  steadily  in  size,  population  and  business  since  its  founding — until  the  past 
two  years,  since  when  its  progress  has  been  more  rapid.  Since  1881,  the  population 
lias  doubled,  and  the  town  is  in  a  highly  prosperous  condition.  Fully  500  j)eople  are 
living  within  the  limits  of  the  school  district. 

The  business  interests  of  Drain  are  quite  numerous.  J.  C.  and  C.  D.  Drain  are 
jjroprietors  of  a  general  store,  and  have  just  completed  a  large  brick  building.  Joseph 
Cellers  has  a  large  store  which  was  founded  by  a  grange  association  in  1877,  was  sold 
to  Krewson  &  Co.,  in  1878,  and  in  1883,  was  purchased  by  the  present  owner.  Kuy- 
kendall  &  Estes  have  a  variety  and  drug  store,  founded  in  1882,  also  the  post  office  and 
"NV^ells,  Fargo  &  Co's.,  express  office.  Jesse  Gross  established  a  hardware  store  in  1883. 
M.  M.  McCulland  keeps  a  hotel,  R.  L.  Shelly  has  a  store, shoj)  and  harness  shoj)  in  Dr. 
Stryker's  brick  building.  This  structure  was  erected  in  1881  by  the  Doctor  and  his 
sons,  burning  and  laying  the  brick  themselves.  There  are,  also  a  blacksmith  shop, 
cabinet  shop,  butcher  shoji  and  livery  stable.  On  Pass  creek  Johnson  &  Ellenberg 
own  and  operate  a  grist  mill,  built  in  1877  by  Krewson  &  Drain.  The  mill  consumes 
18,000  bushels  of  grain  annually,  or  all  that  is  raised  in  its  neighborhood.  Palmer  & 
Bros,  have  a  steam  saw  mill  on  Pass  creek  in  Drain.  The  yearly  product  is  1,500,000 
feet,  though  the  mill  has  a  capacity  of  10,000  feet  per  day.  The  timber,  principally 
fir  with  some  ash,  oak,  alder  and  maple,  is  cut  on  Pass  and  Sandy  creeks  and  rafted 
down  to  the  mill.  Another  mill  is  situated  on  Ritchey  creek,  a  tributary  of  Pass  ei-cek, 
and  is  owned  by  B.  R.  Fitch.     The  annual  output  is  about  1,500,000  feet. 


432  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

About  1861  a  school  district  was  organized,  and  a  log  school  house  was  constructed 
by  Charles  Drain,  C.  F.  Colvin,  J.  M.  Gardner  and  S.  Ensley,  two  and  one-half  miles 
from  the  site  of  the  present  town  of  Drain.  In  1869,  a  new  house  was  erected  near  the 
old  one.  When  the  town  was  laid  out,  a  hall  was  erected,  in  which  school  was  main- 
tained until  1882,  when  the  citizens  subscribed  very  liberally  to  the  construction  of  an 
academy,  which  was  placed  under  the  supervision  of  the  Methodist  church.  In  1883, 
Prof.  H.  L.  Benson  and  Miss  Anna  Geisendorfer  were  given  charge  of  the  school, 
which  is  now  a  flourishing  and  meritorious  institution.  In  1878,  the  Christian  denomi- 
nation organized  a  society  of  thirteen  members  and  erected  a  church  edifice.  The 
membership  is  now  thirty.     The  Methodists  hold  services  in  the  academy. 

November  7,  1878,  the  grand  master  of  Oregon  issued  a  dispensation  to  organize 
Pass  Creek  Lodge,  A.  F.  &  A.  M.  The  organization  was  effected  with  the  following- 
officers:  Jonas  Ellenberg,  W.  M.;  John  Young,  S.  \V.;  A.  Hickethui,  J.  W.;  W.  N. 
Boots,  Treasurer  ;  J.  W.  Krewson,  Secretary ;  John  Barker,  S.  D.;  J.  Cellers,  J.  D.;  B.  E,. 
Fitch,  Tyler.  The  charter  was  granted  July  13,  1879.  The  lodge  is  now  in  a  healthy 
condition,  with  officers  as  follows  :  Jonas  Ellenberg,  W.  M.;  McChien  Johnson,  S.  W.. 
J.  E.  Payton,  J.  W.;  J.  Cellers,  Treasurer;  J.  W.  Krewson,  Secretary;  Martin  Andrews^ 
S.  D.;  William  N.  Boots,  J.  D.;  B.  R.  Fitch,  Tyler. 

Winchester. — Situated  on  the  North  Umpqua,  five  miles  north  of  Eoseburg,  is 
Winchester,  the  oldest  town  in  the  original  county  of  Douglas,  and  the  former  county 
seat.  The  town  was  laid  out  in  lots  by  A.  R.  Flint,  now  a  resident  of  Roseburg,  in 
1851,  on  the  farm  of  John  Aiken.  Messrs.  Carter  &  Emory  bought  the  first  lot  and 
erected  the  first  building  soon  after  the  town  site  was  selected,  and  opened  a  store  for 
the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  settlers  then  fast  locating  in  the  surrounding  region. 
Goods  were  purchased  and  packed  on  mules  to  this  pioneer  store,  whose  customers  were 
scattered  over  a  radius  of  fifty  miles.  S.  W.  Cram  was  proprietor  of  the  first  hotel. 
Winchester  became  a  noted  place,  and  had  prestige  over  all  towns  in  Southern  Oregon 
or  Northern  California  for  a  four  years,  and  when  Douglas  county  was  organized,  it 
was  designated  by  the  legislature  as  the  seat  of  justice.  Later  the  county  seat  was 
removed  to  Roseburg  by  a  vote  of  the  people.  Even  at  that  time  the  town  was  wan- 
ing, and  it  soon  lost  its  commercial  importance  as  its  neighbor  grew  in  size  and  wealth. 
The  first  sermon  preached  south  of  the  Calapooia  mountains  was  delivered  in  the  house 
of  John  Aiken  in  1850,  before  the  town  was  laid  out  or  even  thought  of. 

Garden  Valley. — Situated  just  below  the  junction  of  the  north  and  south 
branches  of  the  Umpqua,  is  four  and  one-half  miles  long,  and  derives  its  name  from  the 
character  of  the  soil  which  is  especially  adapted  to  vegetables  and  garden  products.  The 
first  permanent  settlements  were  made  by  B.  J.  Grubbe,  now  a  resident  of  Wilbur,  Sol- 
omon Fitzhugh,  now  residing  near  Port  Orford,  and  E.  T.  Grubbe,  at  present  residing 
at  Wilbur.  The  proprietors  of  the  fertile  bottom  lands  of  Garden  valley  are  Charles 
La  Point,  Narcisse  La  Rout,  E.  E.  and  T.  J.  La  Brie,  J.  O.  Booth  and  Jefferson  Gil- 
liam. The  valley  was  completely  inundated  by  the  great  flood  of  1861-2,  so  that  the 
main  current  of  the  river  flowed  over  the  body  of  the  valley.  The  bridge  across  the 
Umpqua  at  Winchester  was  washed  across  the  valley  complete,  and  all  improvements, 
except  the  residence  of  E.  T.  Grubbe,  were  destroyed. 


IVIRS.CHARLES  DRAIN. 


:# 


'^ /kji^-i^-Z^^    ^H~^<-- 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  433 

Deer  Ceeek.— This  stream  drains  the  region  imniediately  to  the  eastward  of  Eose- 
burg  and  flows  into  the  South  Unipqua  at  that  phTce.  The  total  length  of  the  stream 
is  some  twenty  miles,  and  it  has  three  branches,  known  as  South,  Middle  and  Xorth 
Deer  creek.  The  valley  of  Deer  creek  is  of  considerable  breadth,  and  contains  a  large 
quantity  of  excellent  farming  land.  About  its  headwaters  are  mountains  of  consider- 
able altitude  by  which  its  valley  is  separated  from  those  of  Myrtle  creek  and  the 
affluents  of  the  North  Umpqua.  The  soil  of  the  Deer  creek  valley  is  capitally  adapted 
to  the  culture  of  cereals,  and  produces  excellent  crops  of  every  cultivated  species  of  gi-ain. 
Some  of  the  first  farms  of  the  county  are  found  here,  many  of  the  owners  of  whom 
might  be  mentioned  as  progressive  and  intelligent  agriculturists.  The  industry  and 
enterprise  of  the  settlers  has  borne  fruit  not  alone  in  improved  fiirms,  good  fences  and 
comfortable  residences,  but  in  school  houses,  churches  and  other  improvements. 

Grazing  is  an  important  industry  of  the  valley,  the  surrounding  hills  affording  the 
finest  of  grass  for  the  sustenance  of  cattle,  sheep  and  horses,  and  a  considerable  amount 
of  mast  from  the  fore.st  trees  is  of  material  aid  in  the  rearing  of  hogs.  Generally  speak- 
ing, agriculture  is  in  a  very  forward  state  on  Deer  creek,  and  the  farmers  have  signalized 
themselves  by  a  steady  devotion  to  the  interests  of  their  craft. 

Deer  creek  received  its  first  settlers  in  1851.  Among  its  pioneers  the  name  of 
Philip  Peters  takes  the  first  rank.  The  population  of  this  part  of  Douglas  county 
centered  at  first  at  the  mouth  of  Deer  creek,  and  until  the  year  1856  or  thereabouts  the 
thickly  settled  locality  at  that  point  was  known  by  the  name  of  Deer  creek — a  cogno- 
men soon  after  changed  to  Koseburg  in  honor  of  Aaron  Rose,  and  the  former  name  has 
since  been  confined  to  the  stream  and  its  valley. 

The  resources  of  the  country  around  Deer  creek  are  various.  On  the  hills  and 
mountains  about  its  head  a  very  fine  quality  of  timber  prevails,  being  mainly  sugar 
pine,  red  and  yellow  fir,  and  cedar.  The  hard  woods  are  oak,  madrone,  and  a  few  less 
important  kinds.  Lumbering  will  doubtless  be  a  pursuit  of  considerable  importance  in 
days  to  come.  A  considerable  amount  of  lands,  suitable  for  grazing  or  tillage  still 
remain  unoccupied  about  the  head  of  the  creek  but  will  doubtless  be  taken  up  by  the 
immigrants  very  soon.  This  land,  even  on  the  highest  elevations,  is  jjrodnctive  and 
would  doubtless  well  repay  its  careful  cultivation. 

YoNCALLA. — Lying  in  the  extreme  northern  end  of  the  county  is  Yoncalla  valley, 
one  TTf  the  most  beautiful  of  the  mountain-locked  valleys  of  the  Pacific  coast.  It  is 
some  eight  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south  and  about  three  in  width.  It  is  drained 
by  the  Yoncalla,  a  tributary  of  Umpqua  river  and  a  stream  of  considerable  size.  The 
valley  was  settled  in  1848  by  William  and  John  Scott,  sons  of  Captain  Levi  Scott. 
They  were  followed  by  Robert  and  Thomas  Cowan  in  1848,  by  Jesse  Ajiplegate,  J.  T. 
Cooper  (who  had  come  into  the  Umpqua  to  explore  the  stream)  and  John  Long  and  — 
Jeff'ery,  in  184U,  and  by  Robert  Smith,  Charles  and  Lindsay  Applegate  and  William 
Wilson  in  1850. 

AVhen  the  Oregon  and  California  railroad  was  built  through  the  valley  in  1872,  a 
station  was  established  called  Yoncalla;  on  the  donation  claim  of  Mr.  G.  A.  Burt,  who  gave 
48  acres  to  the  railroad  company  in  consideration  of  building  the  depot  on  his  laml. 
This  is  the  general  shipping  and  receiving  point  and  has  become  a  town  of  oMisider- 
able  importance.     It  has  two  general  merchandise  stores,  kept  l\v  R.  A.  Buoth  and  C. 


434  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

E.  Trac}".  Mr.  Booth  is  postmaster  and  Mr.  Tracy  is  agent  for  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co. 
A  school  and  church  organizations  are  well  supported.  Youcalla,  or,  as  more  properly 
spelled,  "  Yoncolla,"  is  a  word  of  Indian  origin,  derived  from  yonk  (eagle)  and  colla 
(mountain),  and  was  originally  applied  to  Eagle  mountain,  five  miles  northeast  of 
the  town.  A  saw  mill  was  erected  in  1882,  by  E..  A.  Booth,  with  a  capacity  of 
10,000  feet  per  day.  In  the  north  end  of  the  valley  and  but  two  miles  from  Drain 
are  the  celebrated  Payton  mineral  sj^rings.  Much  attention  is  now  being  paid  to 
stock,  though  the  valley  is  the  best  wheat  land  lying  south  of  the  Calapooias,  and  prob- 
ably no  section  of  the  state  can  present  so  great  a  ^^roportion  of  well-to-do,  and  even 
wealthy  citizens. 

Elktox. — On  the  Umpqua  river;  sixteen  miles  west  of  Drain,  is  the  little  village 
of  Elkton,  at  the  mouth  of  Elk  creek.  By  this  name  the  stream  was  known  in  early 
times  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  men,  and  right  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  stream 
was  located  the  company's  old  fort  sjjoken  of  in  the  early  history  of  the  county.  With 
the  exception  of  the  employees  of  the  company,  the  earliest  settlers  were  H.  B.  Hart, 
James  F.  Levins,  Ira  Wells,  Dr.  Wells,  W.  F.  Bay,  George  Payne  and  Zachariah 
Levins,  who  all  located  on  the  creek  in  1850.  In  the  fall  of  that  year  Winchester, 
Payne  &  Co.  surveyed  a  town  site  where  Elkton  now  stands,  as  has  been  related  in 
the  county  history.  They  could  not  hold  j^ossession  and  therefore  abandoned  it.  The 
next  effort  to  make  a  town  was  in  1854,  when  the  county  of  Umpqua  surveyed  a  town 
site  for  a  county  seat  upon  forty  acres  of  land  donated  by  James  F.  Levins ;  but  this 
was  found  to  be  impracticable  and  the  project  was  abandoned.  The  first  convention  in 
Umpqua  county  was  held  under  an  old  oak  tree  on  this  same  spot  in  1851,  which  tree 
still  stands  near  the  corner  of  Mr.  Levins'  woodshed.  That  building  possesses  the  dis- 
tinction of  being  the  one  in  which  Judge  Deady  held  court  in  1853.  A  saw  mill  was 
built  at  the  mouth  of  Elk  creek  in  1878,  and  the  next  year  a  grist  mill  was  erected  by 
a  company  composed  of  Henry  Beckley,  John  Smith,  D.  M.  Stearns,  Levi  Kent,  H. 
B.  Hart  and  Levi  Berkley.  The  yearly  capacity  of  these  mills  is  200,000  feet  of  lum- 
ber and  2,000  barrels  of  flour.  A  little  town  soon  sprung  up,  and  in  1879  H.  B.  Hart 
and  George  Dimick  opened  a  store,  which  was  afterwards  purchased  by  C.  W.  Baker, 
and  later  by  Henry  Beckley  and  J.  W.  Stark.  The  population  of  Elkton  and  vicinity 
is  now  about  350.  Among  the  prominent  and  successful  farmers  and  stockmen  may 
be  counted  H.  B.  Brown,  Charles  G.  Henderer,  Levi  Kent,  John  Smith  and  Ira  Wells. 
A  good  public  school  is  maintained.  Elkton  Lodge,  No.  63,  A.  F.  &  A.  M.  was  organ- 
ized under  dispensation  granted  August  14,  1874,  in  which  were  named  the  following 
officers  :  Robert  Booth,  W.  M.  ;  E.  B.  Smith,  S.  W. ;  W.  R.  Patterson,  J.  W. ;  W. 
W.  Wells,  Treasurer;  James  McCahey,  S.  D. ;  August  Wood,  J.  D.  Charter  was 
granted  June  14,  1875.  The  present  membership  is  twenty-one.  The  soil  of  the  val- 
ley is  black,  sandy  loam,  and  is  very  productive.  Being  somewhat  removed  from 
a  market,  agriculture  has  been  made  secondary  to  stock  raising.  No  section  of  Doug- 
las county  produces  better  sheep,  bacon  or  beef.  The  old  Eoseburg  and  Seottsburg 
road  and  the  Coos  bay  mail  route  unite  at  Elkton  and  cross  the  creek  over  a  truss 
bridge  which  was  erected  in  1879.  Much  of  the  product  of  the  valley  is  sent  down  to 
Seottsburg  and  Gardiner  for  shipment.  When  the  employees  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  deserted  the  fort  at  Elk  creek  during  the  gold  excitement  in  1848-49,  the 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY  435 

large  bands  of  cattle  owned  liy  the  company  there  became  scattered.  They  soon  be- 
came wild,  and  the  early  settlers  were  comiielled  to  slaughter  them  to  protect  their  own 
animals.  For  several  years  the  settlers  and  freighters  supplied  themselves  with  meat 
from  this  source. 

ScoTTSBURG. — The  first  town  of  Southern  Oregon,  the  former  metropolis  of  tliis 
whole  region,  and  the  county  seat  of  Umpqua  county  before  its  consolidation  with 
Douglas,  was  Scottsburg,  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  Umpqua  river,  some  thirty  miles 
al:)ove  its  mouth,  and  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  that  stream. 

In  the  summer  of  1850,  Captain  Levi  Scott,  who  was  at  the  head  of  the  road 
party  which  laid  out  the  Applegate  trail  in  1846,  settled  on  the  site  of  Scottsburg,  and 
laid  out  a  town  whose  title  still  perpetuates  his  name.  Not  long  after  James  McTavish 
came  up  the  river  and  opened  a  store  in  a  tent  made  of  sails  from  the  wrecked  ship 
Bostonian,  a  disaster  which  has  been  detailed  in  the  history  of  Gardiner.  The  same 
year  George  Snelling  built  the  first  permanent  business  establishment,  being  a  zinc 
house  which  he  had  brought  around  the  Horn  in  the  Bostonian.  About  the  same  time 
William  Sloan  located  some  two  miles  further  down  the  stream  and  opened  a  store, 
that  place  being  thereafter  known  as  the  "Lower  town."  In  the  fall  of  ISoO,  Win- 
chester, Payne  &  Co.,  whose  operations  have  been  recited  in  the  county  history,  occu- 
pied the  space  between  Scottsburg  and  the  lower  town,  which  they  survej'ed  for  a 
town.  Captain  Scott  donated  for  that  purpose  a  portion  of  his  claim,  but  this  reverted 
to  the  original  owner  upon  the  failui-e  of  that  firm.  Scottsburg  soon  became  the 
metropolis  of  Southern  Oregon.  All  the  trade  of  that  region  passed  through  this 
place,  which  had  connection  with  San  Francisco  by  sea.  Roads  were  constructed  at 
great  expense  to  accommodate  this  trade,  and  the  influence  of  this  seaport  town  on  the 
Umpqua  extended  clear  into  Northern  California.  In  1852,  when  it  was  at  the  apex 
of  its  greatness  there  were  fifteen  business  houses  engaged  in  a  wholesale  and  retail 
trade.  It  was  no  unusual  sight  to  see  500  pack  animals  in  the  streets  waiting  for  their 
loads  of  goods.  The  fiDunding  of  Crescent  City  in  1852  drew  off  a  large  portion  of 
tlie  trade  of  Scottsburg,  and  the  increase  of  transportation  facilities  from  other  points 
rapidly  undermined  the  remainder  of  its  business.  In  1858  the  number  of  stores  was 
rechiced  to  two,  and  one  of  these  was  demolished  by  the  great  flood  of  18()l-2.  Much 
damage  was  done  by  the  raging  waters,  especially  in  the  lower  town,  which  was  com- 
(iletely  swept  away.  The  site  is  now  covered  with  bi'ush,  and  not  a  structure  exists  to 
mark  the  spot  where  once  was  great  bustle  and  commercial  activity. 

Scottsburg  has  now  but  one  business  house,  that  of  Cyrus  Hedden  &  Son.  A.  E. 
Ozouf  owns  and  operates  a  tannery  founded  in  1852,  by  Levi  Kent,  and  sends  |5,000 
worth  of  leather  to  San  Fi-ancisco  annually.  In  1878  P.  P.  Palmer  built  a  flour  mill 
which  grinds  2,000  bushels  of  wheat  annually.  W.  R.  Patterson  keeps  a  hotel.  'I'he 
road  from  up  the  river  terminates  here,  and  a  steamer  makes  tri-weekly  trips  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  carrying  passengers,  freight  and  mail.  The  population  is  about 
sixty  in  the  town  proper,  while  some  thirty-five  pupils  attend  the  district  school. 
During  the  Rogue  river  war  of  1855-6,  no  trouble  was  experienced  with  the  Indians 
here,  but  a  company  of  120  men  was  organized  by  Colonel  Chapman  for  service  at  the 
seat  of  war.  The  only  trouble  near  Scottsburg,  was  between  Captain  Rufus  Buttler 
and  a  small  band.     The  Captain  fractured   the  skull  of  a  chief  who  made  an  assault 


436  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

upon  liim,  and  in  revenge  the  savages  attacked  his  house,  which  he  bravely  defended 
until  aid  appeared  and  the  Indians  were  persuaded  to  retire.  Two  miles  below 
Scottsburg  is  an  island  called  Brandy  bar,  which  was  so  named  because  the  schooner 
jSamuel  Roberts,  the  first  to  sail  up  the  river,  grounded  on  the  island,  and  while 
waiting  for  the  tide  to  float  their  vessel  the  crew  went  ashore  and  celebrated  the 
occasion  with  a  barrel  of  brandy. 

Gakdinee. — The  present  seaport  town  of  the  Umpqua  is  Gardiner,  lying  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  river,  seven  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  principal  business  and 
support  of  that  thriving  place  is  the  lumber  industry  which  is  quite  extensively  car- 
ried on  in  this  vicinity.  Large  mills  are  located  at  Gardiner,  and  lumber  is  shipped 
from  it  to  San  Francisco.  Deep  water  vessels  can  enter  the  river  and  reach  the  wliarf 
at  this  place,  and  all  supplies  for  or  shipments  from  the  country  further  up  the  stream 
are  handled  here.  Gardiner  was  once  a  city  of  "  great  expectations."  Here  was  to 
be  the  seaport  for  the  whole  of  Southern  Oregon  ;  but  with  the  construction  of  the 
Oregon  and  California  railroad  into  the  Umpqua  valley  this  vision  of  future  greatness 
vanished.  Instead  of  a  great  commercial  city  there  is  now  a  thriving  manufacturing- 
town,  and  the  business  point  for  quite  an  area  of  agricultural  land. 

Gardiner  was  named  in  honor  of  a  Boston  merchant  by  that  name,  who  fitted  out 
a  schooner  called  Bostonian,  and  sent  her  around  the  Horn  to  engage  in  the  Pacific 
coast  trade,  in  charge  of  his  nephew,  George  Snelling.  On  the  first  day  of  October, 
1850,  the  vessel  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Umpqua,  and  in  endeavoring  to  enter  was 
wrecked  upon  the  bar.  The  crew  managed  to  land  the  bulk  of  the  cargo.  Ten  days 
later  the  Kate  Heath  (Captain  Woods),  entered  the  river  with  the  party  of  Win- 
chester, Payne  &  Co.  on  board,  who  found  the  crew  and  cargo  of  the  wrecked  schooner 
at  the  site  of  the  present  town  of  Gardiner.  This  name  the  spot  has  borne  ever  since, 
though  Snelling  soon  removed  his  goods  to  Scottsburg,  and  Captain  Cofiin  soon  after 
took  up  the  land  as  a  donation  claim.  Coffin  sold  his  claim  to  Mr.  Gibbs,  who,  in  the 
fall  of  1856,  transferred  it  to  James  T.  Cooper.  In  1863  Gardiner  Chisholm,  David 
Morey,  John  Kruse  and  George  Bauer,  purchased  nine  acres  and  erected  a  saw  mill 
from  the  timbers  of  the  old  block  house  brought  from  Umpqua  City.  In  1864  Cooper 
sold  to  J.  B.  Leeds  and  Abe  Frier,  and  the  next  year  Mr.  Leeds  laid  the  property  oft 
into  town  lots.  In  1877  G.  S.  Hinsdale,  E.  Brin  and  J.  B.  Leeds  erected  another 
saw  mill.  In  1881  Hinsdale  purchased  the  entire  property  and  sold  an  interest  to  W. 
F.  Jewett.  Later,  the  Gardiner  Lumber  Company,  of  San  Francisco,  purchased  the 
property,  being  owners  of  the  other  mill  also.  The  yearly  product  of  the  mills  is 
12,000,000  feet  of  lumber.  Logs  come  from  Smith  river  and  Camp  and  Mill  creeks. 
Four  schooners  are  loaded  monthly  for  California  and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Gardi- 
ner has  passed  through  the  tribulation  of  fire,  which  nearly  swept  it  from  existence. 
July  26,  1881,  fire  originated  from  the  fire  pit  of  the  new  mill.  Three  houses  that 
stood  near  and  the  mill  were  quickly  burned,  while  flying  cinders  ignited  the  roofs  of 
houses  in  the  town,  and  soon  Gardiner  was  wrapped  in  flames.  No  means  were  at  hand  for 
extinguishing  them,  and  in  a  remarkably  short  period  thirty-nine  houses  and  stores 
were  consumed.  The  total  loss  was  |52,000.  The  burned  buildings,  which  were 
chiefly  the  residences  of  the  industrious  employees  of  the  mills,  and  whose  loss  left 
many  families  homeless  and  destitute,  were  rebuilt,  and  the  town  became  larger  and 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  437 

more  substantial  than  before.  In  1877  a  salmon  cannery  wa.s  established,  which  dis- 
continued work  after  three  years.  In  1881  the  Bath  Canning  Company  was  organized 
with  a  capital  stock  of  |15,000,  and  put  up  that  year  44,000  cases  of  salmon.  In 
1882,  61,000  cases  were  packed,  and  in  1883,  65,000.  In  1883  the  two  companies 
consolidated.  Other  business  interests  consist  of  two  stores  owned  by  Simpson  Bros. 
&  Co.  and  A.  W.  Reed,  T.  C.  Markey's  drug  store,  two  hotels,  owned  by  William 
Wade  and  William  McGee.  There  is  also  a  good  public  school.  The  population  is 
about  200.  Rural  Lodge,  No.  59,  A.  F.  &  A.  M.,  was  organized  under  dispensation 
December  14,  1872.  The  first  officers  were  Robert  McKinuey,  W.  M. ;  George  M. 
Beldrice,  S.  W. ;  William  Wells,  J.  W. ;  T.  C.  Reed,  Sec. ;  Joseph  Roberts,  S.  D. ; 
W.  W.  Cox,  J.  D. ;  P.  J.  Hiekey,  Tyler.  Charter  was  granted  June  12,  1873.  A 
hall  was  built  in  1873,  was  destroyed  by  the  conflagration  in  1881,  and  is  now  being- 
replaced  by  a  better  one.     The  membership  is  twenty-one. 

A  number  of  vessels  have  been  constructed  on  the  Umpqua.  These  were  the 
brig  Mien  Wood,  schooners  Umpqua,  J.  B.  Leeds,  Peerless,  Louisa  JIadison,  Emma 
Brown,  Active,  Hayes  and  Pacific.  Several  vessels  have  been  lost  on  the  Umpqua  bar 
through  carelessness  or  ignorance,  namely — the  Bostonian  in  1850,  and  the  Almira 
and  Roanoke  in  1852.  Captain  J.  B.  Leeds  is  of  the  opinion  that  the  Umpqua  bar  is 
the  least  dangerous  on  the  coast. 

Wilbur. — The  chief  educational  point  in  Douglas  ccjunty  for  years  was  Wilbur 
a  thriving  little  town  on  the  line  of  the  Oregon  and  California  railroad,  between  Oak- 
land and  Roseburg.  Here  is  located  the  Umpqua  Academy,  which  was  the  only  insti- 
tution of  the  kind  until  the  Drain  Academy  was  founded.  The  site  of  Wilbur  was 
taken  December  24,  1850,  by  B.  J.  Grubbe,  who  built  the  first  house  the  following 
spring.  The  same  year  he  employed  a  teacher  who  held  in  an  oak  grove  the  first 
school  south  of  the  Calapooia  mountains.  He  sold  to  Mr.  Clinkenbeard,  who  laid  ofi* 
a  town  in  1855.  In  1853  Rev.  J.  H.  Wilbur,  tlie  pioneer  preacher  of  Southern  Ore- 
gon, took  up  a  donation  claim,  and  in  1854  founded  the  Umpqua  Academy  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Methodist  denomination.  James  H.  B.  Royal  was  the  first  teacher, 
occupying  a  little  log  building.  A  better  building  was  afterwards  erected,  which  was 
destroyed  by  fire  and  was  replaced  by  the  present  structure. 


CHAPTER    LII. 


OTHER  LOCALITIES. 


Umpqua  City— Long-  Prairie— Putnam  Valley— Green  Valley— Mill  Creek,  Loon  Lake  and  Camp  Creek— Smith 
River— Rice  Valley— Siuslaw— Driver  Valley— English  Settlement— Elk  Head— Scott  Valley— Oak  Grove  or 
Ruckle— Clark's  Branch— Day's  Creek— Coffee  Creek— Oak  Creek. 

Umpqua  City.— The  operations  of  Winchester,  Payne  &  Co.  in  1850  have  been 
fully  rehearsed  in  the  county  history,  including  the  founding  of  Umpqua  City  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  Upon  the  failure  of  the  company  A.  E.  Rogers  took  up  the  town 
site  as  a  claim,  and  in  1851  sold  it  to  General  Joseph  Drew  and  Dr.  E.  P.  Drew. 
Joseph  E.  Clark  soon  afterwards  opened  a  hotel,  which  is  the  only  business  house 
Umpqua  City  ever  could  boast  of.  In  1853  Dr.  Drew  was  appointed  Indian  agent  and 
established  his  headquarters  here.  At  the  close  of  the  Indian  war  in  the  summer  of 
1856,  Captain  Stewart  established  a  military  post  here,  which  was  known  as  Fort  Ump- 
qua. George  Vincent,  who  has  resided  in  the  vicinity  since  1852,  states  that  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1862,  when  the  paymaster  arrived  to  pay  the  troops,  he  found  all  the  officers, 
even  to  the  sergeants  and  corporals,  away  on  a  hunting  trip.  There  were  no  Indians 
requiring  a  post  here,  and  when  the  department  commander  learned  of  the  paymaster's 
experience,  he  ordered  the  fort  abandoned.  An  effort  to  re-establish  it  was  so  far  suc- 
cessful that  Captain  J.  B.  Leeds  was  on  the  point  of  leaving  San  Francisco  with  troops 
and  supplies  for  that  purpose  when  the  order  was  countermanded.  The  old  block 
house  and  soldiers'  quarters  were  removed  to  Gardiner,  and  all  that  now  serves  to  mark 
the  spot  is  the  residence  of  H.  H.  Barat.  Steamers  touch  at  this  place  and  leave  mail 
for  points  up  the  coast. 

Long  Prairie. — Lying  on  the  Umpqua  four  miles  above  Scottsburg  is  a  narrow 
strip  of  bottom  land  following  the  windings  of  the  stream  for  nine  miles,  which  bears 
the  distinguishing  title  of  Long  Prairie.  It  is  hemmed  in  by  high  mountains,  densely 
covered  with  fir  timber.  The  soil  is  the  rich  black  loam  usual  to  these  fertile  bottom 
lands.  In  1850  a  company,  composed  of  Job  Hatfield,  Major  Thorp,  William  Golden 
and  Dave  Johnson,  left  Portland  to  explore  the  Umpqua,  which  they  reached  at  the 
mouth  of  Elk  creek.  They  followed  the  course  of  the  river  to  its  mouth  and  then 
returned  to  this  valley  to  settle,  deeming  it  the  best  they  had  seen.  This  was  the 
founding  of  the  settlement  in  Long  Prairie  which  has  grown  through  the  years  to  a 
population  of  seventy-five.  In  this  little  community  a  most  excellent  school  is  main- 
tained. The  most  prominent  men  who  have  been  identified  with  Long  Prairie  are 
Job  Hatfield,  one  of  the  original  settlers  and  the  pioneer  pilot  of  the  Columbia  bar^ 
Andrew  Sawyer  and  Captain  Rufus  Buttler. 

Putnam  Valley. — One  and  one-half  miles  west  of  Drain  is  Putnam  valley,  named 
in  honor  of  one  of  its  pioneer  settlers,  who  is  still  an  influential  citizen  of  this   region. 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  439 

The  valley  is  four  miles  long  and  about  two  wide,  Elk  creek  traversing  its  lower  end. 
The  soil  is  well  adapted  to  grain,  vegetables  and  fruit.  The  stock  interest  is  laro-e, 
especially  sheep.  The  first  settler  in  the  valley  was  James  Daisley,  in  1850,  other 
pioneers  being  James  Palmer,  Henry  Gardiner,  Thomas  K.  Gardiner,  and  Charles  F. 
Putnam.  The  population  is  about  seventy-five,  and  good  schools  and  church  organ- 
izations are  maintained. 

GreejS'  Valley. — Five  miles  west  of  Oakland  lies  a  narrow  valley,  four  miles  in 
length,  known  as  Green  valley.  Early  in  1851,  H.  C.  Scott  and  M.  Farley  settled  in 
the  valley,  and  were  soon  followed  by  H.  Pinkston,  who  was  accompanied  by  his 
family.  He  built  a  house,  in  which  the  fiirst  school  was  kept,  and  in  which  J.  H. 
Wilbur  preached  the  first  sermon  in  Southern  Oregon.  Later,  in  the  same  year,  came 
William  Patterson,  — .  Crosby,  J.  L.  Gilbert  and  N.  W.  Allen.  In  1853,  the  settlers 
erected,  at  an  expense  of  $1,000,  the  first  school  house  south  of  the  Calapooia  moun- 
tains. In  1851,  Dr.  Reed  built  a  saw  mill,  and  a  grist  mill  in  1852 — the  first  in 
Douglas  county.  Other  early  settlers  were  N.  Venable,  J.  J.  Walton,  P.  C.  Parker, 
Preston  Rice  and  — .  Shupe. 

Mill  Ceeek,  Loon  Lake  and  Camp  Ckeek. — In  the  spring  of  1852,  S.  S. 
Williams,  Joseph  Peters,  and  Job  Hatfield  went  on  an  exploring  expedition  southwest 
of  Scottsburg  to  the  headwaters  of  Mill  creek,  a  stream  entering  the  Umpqua  some 
four  miles  below  that  city.  About  four  miles  up  the  stream,  they  came  upon  a  lake, 
some  two  by  three  miles  in  dimensions,  which  had  been  formed  by  a  land-slide  block- 
ing the  creek.  In  the  center  of  the  lake  was  a  floating  log,  upon  which  they  discov- 
ered a  loon's  nest  containing  two  eggs,  while  the  two  birds,  to  which  the  nest  belonged, 
were  observed  at  some  distance  on  the  water.  The  eggs  were  packed  in  moss  and  taken 
home,  being  subsequently  donated  to  the  Wilbur  academy ;  and,  in  view  of  these  facts, 
the  place  has  always  been  known  as  Loon  lake.  The  next  year,  S.  S.  Williams  con- 
ducted a  party  there  on  the  direct  route  from  Scottsburg.  On  the  way  they  discovered 
a  stream  tributary  to  Mill  creek,  which  they  named  Camp  creek,  because  they  made  an 
encampment  there.  These  two  streams  are  lined  with  dense  forests  of  fir  and  cedar, 
and  logging  for  the  Gardiner  mills  has  recently  been  commenced  on  them.  A  large 
camp  of  men  cut  the  timber  and  float  the  logs  down  to  the  Umpqua,  and  thence  to 
Gardiner,  fifteen  miles  below. 

Sjiith  River. — About  eight  miles  above  its  mouth,  a  sluggish  stream  enters  the 
Umpqua  from  the  northeast,  which  has  been  named  Smith  river,  because  it  is  supposed 
to  be  the  stream  upon  whose  banks  Jedediah  S.  Smith's  party  was  destroyed  by  Indians 
in  1827,  as  has  been  related  previously.  Poland  island,  named  in  honor  of  Captain 
Poland,  its  first  settler,  divides  the  mouth  of  the  stream  into  two  parts.  The  river 
has  its  source  in  the  Calapooias,  and  has  a  length  along  its  course  of  ninety  miles, 
winding  tortuously  through  an  extremely  rugged  and  mountainous  region.  From  two 
to  three  thousand  acres  of  agricultural  land  lie  in  long,  narrow  strips  along  the  banks 
of  the  stream,  which  in  several  places  spread  out  into  large  marshes  and  mud  flats. 
The  soil  is  rich  alluvium.  The  upper  portion  of  the  stream  runs  through  a  more  open 
country,  where  are  extensive  ranges  for  stock.  The  dense  timber  of  the  lower  portion 
consists  chiefly  of  flr,  cedar  and  maple,  and  much  logging  is  done  for  the  mills  at 
Gardiner.     In  1851,  a  company  of  men  cut  timber  at  the  mouth  of  the  stream  to  be 


440  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

shipped  to  San  Francisco  for  piling.  In  1853,  Waterman  and  Curtis  Johnson  and  J. 
Davenport  explored  the  river,  and  the  following  year  returned  with  John  Shurtz,  J. 
W.  Miller  and  P.  P.  Simmons  and  made  a  permanent  settlement.  In  pursuance  to  an 
act  of  the  legislature,  passed  the  year  before,  a  eurvey  was  made  in  1858  for  a  wagon 
road  from  Eugene  City  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Smith  river,  a  distance  of  seventy- 
one  miles  ;  but  the  route  was  reported  impracticable,  and  the  project  was  abandoned. 
In  1864,  logging  commenced  for  the  new  mill  at  Gardiner,  and  the  good  land  was  then 
immediately  taken  up  by  an  industrious  class  of  people,  who  engage  in  farming,  stock- 
raising  and  logging.  A  steamer  carrying  the  mail  and  passengers  ascends  the  stream 
to  the  head  of  tidewater,  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  and  from,  that  point  the  upper 
settlements  are  reached  by  a  county  road  which  was  constructed  in  1874.  The  men 
most  prominently  identified  with  the  interests  of  Smith  river  are  John  Cowan,  John 
Shurtz,  S.  A.  Perkins,  John  Lester,  H.  G.  Mead  and  Milton  Shurtz.  Two  good  schools 
are  maintained  on  the  river.  The  chief  market  for  this  region  is  San  Francisco,  which 
is  reached  by  way  of  Gardiner. 

Rice  Valley. — Four  miles  north  of  Oakland  is  Rice  valley,  named  in  honor  of 
W.  S.  Rice,  who  settled  there  in  1852,  and  is  still  one  of  its  most  prominent  citizens. 
The  valley  is  five  miles  long  and  one  mile  in  width,  and  is  drained  by  Cabin  creek,  a 
tributary  of  the  Calapooia.  It  is  under  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  producing  a  super- 
ior quality  of  grain,  fruit  and  berries,  and  is  well  stocked  with  sheep  and  cattle.  The 
earliest  settler  was  A.  J.  Knowles,  in  1851,  followed  by  W.  S.,  Ira  and  Isadore  Ricn, 
Wesley  Allen,  Frederick  Thieler,  W.  S.  Tower  and  John  Canady,  who  are  still  its 
principal  owners.  The  Oregon  &  California  railroad  traverses  the  valley,  at  the  head 
of  which  is  Rice  Station,  the  general  shipping  point.  The  population  of  seventy-five^ 
maintain  a  good  school.  A  little  trouble  was  experienced  with  the  Indians  by  some  of 
the  settlers  who  located  claims  ujDon  tracts  of  land  the  natives  desired  to  keep  and  cul- 
tivate for  themselves.  This  culminated  after  the  war  of  1856  in  an  attack  by  two  of 
the  whites  upon  an  Indian  house  in  which  two  of  the  inmates  were  killed.  Serious 
trouble  came  near  resulting  from  this,  and  mob  violence  was  threatened.  The  men 
were  tried  for  the  act,  but  were  not  convicted. 

SiusLAW. — The  Siuslaw  river  forms  for  a  distance  the  boundary  line  between  Lane 
and  Douglas  counties.  The  valley  or  bottom  lands,  usually  about  a  mile  in  width, 
extend  along  the  stream  for  forty  miles,  and  are  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  fir, 
cedar,  maple  and  alder.  The  soil  is  a  rich,  sandy  loam,  well  adapted  to  hojjs  and  grass. 
The  valley  is  well  stocked  with  good  sheep  and  cattle.  The  earliest  settlers  were  D. 
W.  Hinch,  A.  J.  Moody,  David  Morse,  Sr.,  and  Captain  Hill,  who  came  in  1875. 
The  little  town  o£Florence  was  soon  founded  on  the  Lane  county  side  of  the  stream. 
In  1876  Duncah  &  Co.,  established  a  cannery,  and  A.  J.  Moody  opened  a  store.  Nav- 
igation extends  up  this  stream  twenty  miles,  where  begins  a  good  road  to  Eugene  City, 
thirty-seven  miles  distant.  Two  stores  are  kept,  by  David  Morse  and  David  Morse,  Jr. 
There  are  also  two  hotels  and  a  cannery,  the  property  of  David  Morse.  The  present 
population  is  about  200,  but  many  new  settlers  are  constantly  arriving. 

Deiver  Valley. — Ten  miles  east  of  Oakland  is  Driver  valley,  a  fertile  tract 
three  and  one-half  miles  long  and  about  one  mile  wide,  named  in  honor  of  I.  D. 
Driver,  who  settled  there  in  1853.     The  center  of  the  vallev  is  level  land,  with  a  rich 


— ^h- 


DOUGLAS  COUNTY.  441 

black  soil  \yell  adapted  to  vegetables  and  general  agriculture;  tbe  red  clay  of  the  sur- 
roiiudiug  bald  hills  produces  excelleut  wheat  and  other  grains.  The  mountains  are 
densely  timbered.  The  valley  is  stocked  with  excellent  sheep  and  its  resources  are 
well  developed.  The  population  of  twenty-five  have  easy  access  to  good  schools  and 
churches. 

English  Settlemext. — A  tract  of  land  six  miles  long  by  two  wide  lies  eight 
miles  north  of  Oakland,  and  is  called  English  Settlement  because  of  the  nation- 
ality of  its  first  occupants.  Three  creeks,  Oldham,  Bachelor  and  Pollock,  tra- 
verse it,  the  land  along  the  streams  being  level,  while  that  between  is  rolling  prairie. 
The  best  of  grain,  fruit  and  vegetables  are  produced,  and  the  valley  is  stocked  with 
fine  breeds  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep  and  swine.  The  first  settler  was  Sim  Oldham,  in 
1852,  the  later  arrivals  of  the  most  prominence  being  Dr.  Hall,  George  Hall  and  H. 
Underwood.  The  present  population  numbers  about  sixty.  A  good  school  is  main- 
tained, and  the  community  is  in  a  highly  prosperous  condition. 

Elk  Head. — A  narrow  valley  of  this  name,  which  is  locally  known  as  Shoe- 
string, lies  twelve  miles  southwest  of  Oakland,  at  the  headwaters  of  Elk  creek.  The 
valley  is  surrounded  by  high  mountains  and  is  but  one-half  a  mile  in  width  and  about 
five  miles  long,  and  though  the  soil  is  rich  the  area  of  arable  land  is  limited.  It  is 
well  stocked  with  sheep  and  swine.  J.  W.  Jones  settled  here  iu  1853,  the  more  prom- 
inent arrivals  of  a  later  date  being  E.  B.  Coats,  G.  L).  Woodson,  Joseph  H.  Garoutte 
and  P.  A.  Harris.  In  the  summer  of  1880,  Kev.  A.  S.  Todd,  while  riding  through 
the  valley,  observed  a  ledge  of  quartz,  which  upon  investigation  proved  to  be  an  exten- 
sive lode  of  cinnabar.  Work  has  been  commenced  on  this  by  a  private  company  of 
the  valley.  A  little  town  called  Elk  Head  has  sprung  up,  and  the  indications  are 
that  here  will  develop  one  of  the  most  important  industries  of  the  county.  The  pop- 
ulation of  the  village  is  120 ;  a  good  school  is  supported  by  the  citizens. 

Scott  Valley. — Situated  about  three  miles  east  of  Yoncalla  is  a  little  valley 
which  was  settled  iu  1848  by  Captain  Levi  Scott,  the  founder  of  Scottsburg,  whose 
name  the  valley  bears.  It  has  an  area  of  about  four  square  miles.  The  soil  is  a  mix- 
ture of  adobe  and  sandy  alluvium,  and  produces  grain  and  fruit  abundantly.  Oak, 
ash  and  fir  timber  is  unlimited.  A  saw  mill  with  a  yearly  production  of  100,000  feet 
of  lumber  is  owned  by  Bryant  &  Sweeney.  A  good  school  exists  in  the  valley.  The 
population  numbers  sixty-five. 

Oak  Grove,  or  Buckle.— This  place  is  a  station  on  the  Oregon  and  ("nlifornia 
railroad,  eighteen  miles  south  of  Eoseburg.  It  was  settled  by  J.  H.  Bean  in  IS.')!, 
and  is  now  owned  by  M.  C.  Ruckle  and  George  H.  Stevenson. 

Clark's  Branch.— This  stream  derived  its  name  from  James  A.  Clark,  whose 
donation  claim  was  located  at  its  mouth.  The  property  is  now  owned  by  William 
Hudson. 

Day's  Creek.— In  1851  Patrick  and  George  Day  settled  at  tlu>  moiuli  of 
the  stream  which  bears  their  name,  and  were  soon  followed  by  .1.  P.  \\  dson 
and  James  O'Neal.  The  valley  through  which  it  flows  is  seven  miles  in  length  and 
but  half  a  mile  wide.  Upon  the  stream  is  a  saw  mill  owned  by  ^Ir.  Adams  and 
operated  by  Mr.  Bailey.  An  abundance  of  fir,  cedar  and  sugar  pine  grows  along  the 
creek.      Tlie   principal    farmers   are   Messrs.    Raymond,  Tate,   Ciiamberlain.    I'.rdur. 


442  SOUTHEEN  OEEGON. 

Woods,  Linville  and  Blaine.  A  good  school  exists,  and  the  Methodists  have  a  church 
organization.  Rev.  H.  P.  Webb,  pastor. 

Coffee  Ckeek. — This  stream  was  named  by  miners  in  1858,  because  of  a  joke 
about  a  coffee  pot.  Placer  claims  are  being  worked  along  the  stream.  The  principal 
owners  of  the  land  are  Joshua  Noland,  S.  K.  Shelly,  S.  Morgan,  James  Cox,  Benjamin 
Stout  and  Daniel  Conley. 

Oak  Creek. — On  this  stream,  situated  in  Mt.  Scott  precinct,  ten  miles  northeast 
of  Roseburg,  is  a  church  edifice  24x40  feet  in  size,  belonging  to  the  denomination  of 
Primitive  or  Old  School  Baptists.  The  church  was  organized  by  Elder  Isom  Craw- 
ford, June  3,  1871,  assisted  by  Ezra  Stout  and  John  T.  Crooks.  The  present  oflBcers 
are :  Joseph  Thornton,  moderator ;  Jeptha  Thornton  and  William  S.  Matthews, 
elders  ;  G.  R.  P.  Allerbury,  deacon  ;  James  Thornton,  clerk. 


JOSEPHINE   COUNTY. 


CHAPTER  LIII, 


DESCRIPTION  AND    RESOURCES. 

Location    of  the  County -Boundaries— Extent— Character  of  the  Surface— Mountain   Streams -Illinois  Valley- 
Northern  Josephine— Trees—Animals—Minerals— Marble—  Copper— Gold. 

Josephine  county  embraces  that  portion  of  country  lying  between  Jackson  county 
on  the  east  and  Curry  on  the  west,  and  extending  from  Douglas  county  to  the  Cali- 
fornia line.  The  boundaries,  as  given  by  the  act  of  legislature  of  January  22,  1856, 
creating  Josephine  county,  are  as  follows  :  Beginning  at  the  southwest  corner  of  town- 
ship 32,  range  5,  west ;  being  the  south  boundary  of  Douglas  county  ;  thence  west  along 
the  dividing  ridge  sei^arating  the  waters  of  Cow  creek  from  those  of  Rogue  and  Co- 
quille  rivers,  to  the  northeast  corner  of  Curry  county  ;  thence  south  along  the  east  line 
of  said  county  to  the  summit  of  the  divide  between  Rogue  and  Illinois  rivers ;  thence 
west  along  the  divide  to  a  point  seven  miles  east  of  the  junction  of  those  rivers  ;  thence 
south  to  the  California  state  line  ;  thence  east  to  the  intersection  of  the  west  boundary 
of  range  4,  west ;  thence  north  to  the  southeast  corner  of  townshiji  36;  thence  west  to 
the  southwest  corner  of  the  same  township  ;  thence  north  to  the  place  of  beginning. 

There  is  a  considerable  discrepancy  between  the  various  maps  of  the  region  in 
respect  of  the  western  boundary  of  the  county,  and  the  dimensions,  as  given  by  the  act 
quoted,  do  not  by  any  means  appear  on  the  ordinary  state  maps.  The  western  boundary 
is  usually  considered  to  be  a  north  and  south  line  dividing  range  nine  west,  through 
the  middle  from  a  point  about  three  miles  south  of  Rogue  river  to  the  California  line. 
The  boundary,  as  it  appears  in  the  act,  would  intersect  the  corresponding  townships  of 
range  eleven,  west,  thereby  giving  to  Josephine  about  twenty-nine  townshii)s  more 
surface  than  are  usually  assigned  her.  But  considering  the  character  of  the  region  thus 
gained,  it  would  hardly  seem  a  valuable  acquisition.  The  greatest  length  of  the  county 
is  from  north  to  south,  and  is  fifty-eight  miles  ;  the  greatest  width,  assuming  the  county 
to  be  as  it  is  usually  figured  on  maps,  is  twenty -seven  miles,  and  the  extent  of  surface 
is  777,600  acres,  or  little  more  than  one-third  of  the  area  of  Jackson  county. 

Josephine  county  is  very  rough  and  mountainous  in  its  character  and  lias  little 
level  land.  The  principal  mountain  range  is  the  Siskiyou,  whose  main  chain  separates 
Josephine  county  from  California.  Spurs  of  this  range  trend  north  and  northwest, 
enclosing  the  Illinois  river,  whicli  is  the  principal  habitable  section  in  the  southern  j)art. 


444  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

Between  this  valley  and  that  of  the  Applegate  is  a  rugged  and  lofty  range,  which  is  a 
portion  of  the  Siskiyous.  The  general  direction  of  these  ranges  is  northwest,  as  is 
shown  by  the  principal  streams  running  that  way,  and  the  last  named  chain  of  moun- 
tains is  no  exception  to  the  rule,  for  it  continues  in  that  direction  as  far  as  the  conflu- 
ence of  Rogue  and  Illinois  rivers.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  county  the  principal  ele- 
vations are  off-shoots  of  what  are  commonly  called  the  Rogue  river  mountains  and 
sometimes  the  Umpqua  or  Canyon  mountains.  The  Grave  creek  hills,  so  called,  lie 
between  that  stream  and  Jump-oft-Joe,  and  the  Wolf  creek  range  between  Cow 
and  Wolf  creeks.  They  are  very  broken  in  appearance,  but  lie  in  a  generally  east  and 
west  line  and  are  of  considerable  height,  some  summits  attaining  an  elevation  of  4,000 
feet  or  more.  Toward  Rogue  river  the  mountains  decrease  much  in  height,  the  highest 
summits  being  in  the  extreme  ends  of  the  county,  whereas  that  stream  flows  through 
its  middle  or  not  far  therefrom. 

As  previously  inferred,  the  principal  streams  take  a  northwesterly  course  through 
Josephine  county.  They  are  Rogue  and  Illinois  rivers,  and  Applegate  creek,  whereof 
the  first  and  last  rise  in  Jackson  county,  to  the  eastward,  while  Illinois  river  begins  its 
course  in  Josephine,  far  up  among  the  Siskiyous,  and  flowing  through  the  most  valu- 
able part  of  the  county  runs  into  Rogue  luver  about  twelve  miles  from  the  coast  of 
Curry  county.  This  stream  takes  its  name  from  the  state  of  Illinois,  whence  some 
early  miners  came  and  applied  that  name  i:)atriotically.  The  Illinois  is  divided  in  the 
upper  25art  of  its  course,  and  its  two  branches,  called  east  fork  and  west  fork,  res^^ect- 
ively,  unite  a  short  distance  above  Kirbyville.  Into  the  west  fork  flows  Rough  and 
Ready  creek,  which  rises  in  the  mountains  of  Curry  and  flows  eastwardly,  and  the  east 
fork  receives  Sucker  and  Althouse  creeks,  streams  of  immense  note  in  mining  history. 
A  few  miles  below  Kirbyville,  Josephine  creek  enters  the  Illinois  from  the  west,  and 
Deer  creek  from  the  east. 

This  section,  commonly  called  Illinois  valley,  is,  rightly  speaking,  a  basin,  whose 
sides  are  mountain  ranges  which  enclose  it  perfectly  excepting  as  to  the  narrow  and  al- 
most impassable  canyon  through  which  flows  the  Illinois  on  its  way  to  join  Rogue  river. 
The  smaller  tributaries  named  flow  toward  a  common  center.  The  height  of  the  rim 
of  the  basin  toward  the  south  is  from  5,000  to  7,000  feet.  On  the  west  are  the  rough 
and  heavily  wooded  mountains  of  Curry  county,  among  whose  deep  canyons  and  pre- 
cipitous steeps  man  can  find  no  habitable  spot.  The  Illinois  has,  by  the  slow  process 
of  cycles,  worn  its  deep  and  narrow  passage,  as  has  Rogue  river,  but  upon  their  banks 
no  fertile  bottom  land  exists  nor  has  humanity  ever  found  a  resting  place  by  their  tur- 
bulent waters.  But  nature  wears  a  fairer  aspect  on  the  upper  portion  of  the  course  of 
the  Illinois.  Here  are  many  farms,  and  the  soil  is,  though  small  in  quantity,  very 
rich  and  productive.  Above  Kirbyville  the  river  and  its  tributaries  have  yielded  the 
greater  part  of  the  immense  quantity  of  gold  taken  from  the  mines  of  Josephine. 
In  the  palmy  days  of  *l85o  and  neighboring  years  the  banks  were  lined  with  miners 
and  the  product  of  gold  was  enormous.  The  course  of  the  Illinois  is  north  for  the 
greater  portion  of  its  length  in  Josephine  countj',  but  on  reaching  the  waters  of  Deer 
creek,  on  the  western  boundary  of  township  38,  it  assumes  a  northwesterly  direction 
and  flows  into  Rogue  river,  thirty  odd  miles  from  the  confluence  of  the  creek  named 
The  extent  of  the  basin  of  the  Illinois  and  its  tributary  streams  in  Josephine  county 


CDJj:R:Rir 


^JL±moo  MOS 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  445 

is  about  400  square  miles  or  270,000  acres,  which  is  about  oiie-thirtl  of  tlie  total  area  of 
the  county.  This  extent  of  mountain,  hill  and  dale  comprises  the  most  valuable  por- 
tion of  the  county  and  constitutes  an  agricultural  section  of  considerable  importance. 
Here  are  gathered  two-thirds  of  the  total  population  of  Josephine,  with  the  greater 
part  of  the  permanent  improvements,  etc.  Here,  too.  is  the  county  seat,  Kirbvville, 
and  the  greater  number  of  inhabited  localities. 

The  northern  section  is  less  regular  in  outline  than  that  just  described,  and  is  also 
more  diversified.  It  falls  short  in  the  matter  of  natural  advantages,  nor  has  it  means 
for  sujiporting  as  numerous  a  population  as  the  Illinois  valley.  Tiae  principal  streams 
are  the  Rogue  river  and  Applegate,  AVilliams,  Slate,  Galice,  Jump-off-Joe,  Louse, 
Grave,  Wolf  and  Coyote  creeks,  all  of  which  ultimately  find  their  way  into  the  one 
channel  of  Rogue  river.  Applegate  creek,  the  largest  of  these,  enters  Josephine 
county  on  the  eastern  boundary,  and  running  northward  joins  Rogue  river  nearly  in  the 
middle  of  the  county.  It  receives  in  Josephine  county  two  considerable  streams,  Wil- 
liams and  Slate  creeks,  both  of  which  rise  in  the  divide  between  the  Applegate  and 
Illinois  and  run  northeast.  Galice  creek  rises  in  the  western  portion  of  the  county 
and  empties  into  Rogue  river,  a  short  distance  below  Gi'ave  creek.  Louse  creek  joins 
Jump-oif-Joe  and  runs  into  Rogue  river,  from  the  opposite  direction.  Grave  creek 
pursues  a  westerly  course,  receives  Wolf  creek  and  adds  its  waters  to  the  main  river, 
about  fifteen  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Jump-off-Joe.  Coyote  creek  is  an  affluent  of 
Wolf  creek,  and  rises  in  the  northwestern  part  of  Jackson  county.  All  of  these  creeks, 
without  ex(!eption,  have  been  the  scene  of  mining  operations  and  some  are  vet  pro- 
ducing wealth  and  promising  still  better  yields. 

The  flora  and  fauna  of  Josephine  county  have  an  almost  exact  resemblance  to 
those  of  the  sister  county  of  Jackson.  As  regards  the  former  there  are  various  trees 
and  plants  of  economic  value,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  sugar  pine,  pitch  pine, 
cedar  and  red  fir,  of  great  importance  in  lumber  making;  there  arc  .several  species  of 
hard  wood,  particularly  the  black  oak  and  white  oak,  as  well  as  various  descriptions  of 
smaller  trees,  underbrush,  etc.  Speaking  in  general  terms  we  may  say  there  is  enough 
timber  in  the  county  to  suj^ply  the  probable  demand  for  many  generations  ;  and  owing 
to  its  comparative  inaccessibility  large  quantities  will  most  likely  renniin  standing  for 
a  long  term  of  years. 

Wild  animals  of  many  species  are  found  in  Josephine  county,  and  those  consid- 
ered as  game  are  particularly  abundant.  Deer  of  the  black-tailed  variety  abound  in 
large  numbers  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  county  and  are  much  valued  as  a  means  of 
sustenance.  Bears  of  the  small  black  species  are  not  uncommon,  and  the  more  formid- 
able grizzly  is  met  with,  but  not  frequently.  The  cinnamon  bear  is  alscj  said  to  exist 
in  the  county.  Elk,  once  plentiful,  are  now  reduced  in  number  to  a  few  individuals 
who  inhabit  elevated  and  almost  inaccessible  spots  in  the  mountains.  The  cougar,  bet- 
ter known  as  the  California  lion,  and  sometimes  miscalled  panther,  is  to  be  seen  or 
heard  in  the  wilds,  and  the  mischievous  coyote,  the  fox,  raccoon,  wild-cat,  badger,  anil 
occasionally  a  porcupine  are  seen.  Of  fur-bearing  animals  there  are  the  beaver,  otter, 
marten,  fisher  and  mink.     Silver  foxes  are  occasionally  ^^een  in  the  Siskiyous. 

The  mineral  resources  of  Josephine  county  are  .similar  to  those  of  Jackson,  no 
great  difference  being  noted  in  any  respect.     Properly  speaking,  the  two  counties  are 


446  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

but  one  in  location,  industrial  resources  and  natural  advantages.  As  to  mineral  wealth, 
Josephine  is  well  supplied  with  a  large  number  of  the  more  useful  and  valuable  met- 
als, ores  and  rocks,  most  particularly  of  gold,  copper  and  marble.  Of  the  latter  a 
mountain  exists  near  the  former  town  of  Williamsburg,  of  various  colors  and  emi- 
nently adapted  for  constructive  23urposes,  and  being  in  such  vast  quantity  may  justly 
be  looked  upon  as  of  great  future  importance.  The  celebrated  cave,  so  much  spoken 
of,  is,  like  nearly  all  great  natural  caverns,  in  limestone,  whose  quantity  is  inexhaust- 
ible. Copper  has  been  an  article  upon  which  great  hopes  have  been  based.  Several 
locations  have  been  made  on  promising  veins,  and  work  has  been  undertaken  in  two 
or  three  instances.  Near  Waldo  a  mine  of  this  sort  whose  ore  contains  twenty-three 
per  cent,  of  metallic  copper  is  owned  by  S.  F.  Chadwick,  John  Brandt  and  C  Hughes. 
The  same  parties  own  a  similar  claim  fifteen  miles  below  Kirbyville.  Iron  ore  of 
assumed  valuable  quality  exists  in  Josephine,  but  of  course  it  can  be  looked  upon  only 
as  a  possible  source  of  wealth  in  the  very  remote  future. 

But  all  other  sources  of  mineral  wealth  become  trivial  in  comparison  with  the 
gold  mines  of  Josephine.  The  region  is  pre-eminently  a  country  of  gold  mining, 
exceeding  in  respect  to  those  interests  any  other  portion  of  Oregon.  The  first  gold 
extracted  in  the  state  was  found  in  Josephine  county,  and  after  a  third  of  a  century 
actively  spent  in  that  pursuit,  the  deposits  are  by  no  means  exhausted.  There  are 
placer  diggings  from  which,  as  in  Jackson  county,  by  far  the  greater  bulk  of  the  wealth 
has  been  taken,  the  quartz  mines  producing  a  very  small  portion  of  the  total  yield. 


CHAPTER    LIV. 


EVENTS  OF  THE    COUNTY    HISTORY. 


Organization— Waldo,  the  First  County  Seat— Name  Derived  from  Miss  Josephine  Rollins— Prospectors  Arrive  in 
1851— Discovery  of  Placer  Diggings— Althouse— A  Hard  Winter— Roads— Mining,  the  Principal  Resource- 
Statistics — Conclusions. 

Josephine  county  was  organized  by  act  of  the  territorial  legislature  which  took  effect 
in  January,  1856.  The  county  seat  at  first  was  Waldo,  originally  and  most  frequently 
called  Sailor  Diggings,  because  of  the  discovery  by  a  party  of  sea-faring  men  of  rich 
placers  in  that  vicinity.  That  place  succeeded  Althouse  as  the  foremost  locality  in  the 
Illinois  valley,  and  in  time  was  succeeded  by  Kirbyville,  whose  location  is  near  the 
geographical  centre.  The  first  court  of  Josephine  county  was  held  in  the  fall  of  1856, 
at  Waldo,  Judge  M.  P.  Deady  on  the  bench.  The  reason  for  setting  Josephine  off  as  a 
distinct  county  was  that  the  people  of  that  portion  of  Jackson  county  were  incommoded 
by  being  obliged  to  travel  so  diflScult  a  road  to  the  county  seat.  This  reason  was  of 
great  force  at  that  time,  as  the  roads  were  extremely  bad — in  fact,  were  only  trails — and 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  447 

travel  was  necessarily  slow  and  expensive.  At  the  present  day  that  mode  of  reasoning 
has  lost  much  of  its  force,  particularly  with  regard  to  the  northern  part  of  the  county, 
whose  people,  aided  by  the  railroad,  would  find  it  much  easier  to  reach  the  capital  of 
Jackson  county  than  the  comparatively  secluded  county  seat  of  Josephine.  The  county 
derives  its  name  directly  from  Josephine  creek,  and  indirectly  from  Miss  Josephine 
Rawlins  or  Rollins,  at  one  time  the  only  white  female  in  the  county.  Her  arrival  took 
place  in  1851,  her  father  being,  for  a  short  time  at  least,  a  miner  on  Josephine  creek, 
just  below  the  confluence  of  Canyon  creek.  This  young  lady  afterward  settled  in 
Yreka,  and  became  the  wife  of  O'Kelly,  a  resident  of  that  town.  It  is  worthy  of 
remark  that  a  member  of  the  Legislature  proposed  to  substitute  the  name  Kelly  for 
Josei)hine  when  the  organic  act  was  under  discussion  ;  but  the  attempt  against  euphony 
and  fitness  signally  failed. 

The  earliest  visitors  to  what  is  now  Josephine  county  undoubtedly  were  the  traj)- 
pers  employed  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  came  through  this  region,  travers- 
ing the  northern  part  of  it  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Oregon  trail,  and  probably  exploring 
in  a  casual  way  the  valleys  of  the  principal  stream.  It  is  known  that  they  gave  names 
to  some  of  the  water-courses  and  elevations  of  that  part  of  the  country,  but  the  extent 
of  their  explorations  and  knowledge  cannot  now  be  known.  At  a  later  date,  the  trail 
— by  that  time  well  known  and  comparatively  much  used — was  traversed  by  sundry 
parties  of  settlers  from  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  who  were  in  the  habit  of  making 
occasional  trips  to  California  for  cattle,  etc.  Still  later,  the  gold  discoveries  attract 
many  people  from  the  Willamette  to  the  California  mines,  and  travelers  were  frequent. 
Many  curious  and  interesting  occurrences  must  have  taken  place  in  these  years,  but  of 
the  most  of  them  we  have  no  knowledge  beyond  tradition  and  gaj-bled  hearsay  state- 
ments. 

In  the  year  1851  the  history  of  the  county  really  begins,  in  the  discovery  and 
working  of  the  placers  in  Canyon  and  Josejihine  creeks.  Herein  we  find  that  the 
commencement  of  the  history  of  this  county  antedates  that  of  Jackson  by  a  year,  and  in 
some  sense  Josephine  may  be  looked  on  as  a  progenitor  of  the  neighboring  county,  in 
respect  to  its  actual  development,  though  not,  of  course,  as  regards  the  county  organiza- 
tion, since  that  of  Jackson  preceded  the  other  by  four  years. 

In  1851,  several  prospectors  came  north  from  the  Klamath  river,  and  passing  over 
the  divide  into  the  valley  of  the  Illinois,  found  gold  to  the  west  of  that  stream,  in  the 
sands  of  a  creek  which  flows  into  the  Illinois  a  few  miles  below  Kirby  ville.  The  news 
of  their  discovery  was  immediately  communicated  to  the  numerous  and  populous  min- 
ing camps  of  Northern  California,  and  people  began  to  move  toward  the  new  diggings 
in  considerable  numbers.  This  was  the  first  mining  locality  discovered  or  worked  in 
Oregon,  and  therefore  a  historic  spot.  During  the  season,  more  particularly  in  time  of 
the  same  year,  a  considerable  number  of  men  arrived  on  the  creek  and  mined,  meeting 
with  varied  success.  Several  of  these  old  miners  now  reside  in  various  parts  of  South- 
ern Oregon,  there  being  Hardy  Eliff",  of  Cow  creek,  Dan  Fisher,  of  Willow  Springs,  ,] 
E.Ross,  Nathaniel  Mitchell  and  James  Tuffs,  now  of  Jackson  county,  and  possil)Iy 
others  ;  while  the  most  of  them,  of  course,  have  passed  away. 

When  in  June,  1851,  active  hostilities  began  against  the  Intiians  along  the  banks 
of  Rogue  river,  Major  Kearney  dispatched  a  subordinate  officer  to  tlic  Illinois  valley 


448  SOUTHEEN  OREGON. 

for  assistance  in  conquering  the  enemy.  Quite  a  large  proportion  of  the  Josephine 
creek  miners  res^iondecl  to  the  call  and  proceeded  to  Bear  creek  where  they  served  for 
a  few  days  against  the  Indians,  their  warlike  career  being  terminated  by  the  Gaines 
treaty  of  peace.  Some  thirty,  it  is  said,  were  thus  engaged,  but  others  have  fixed  the 
number  at  twice  that.  How  many  remained  on  the  creek  is  not  known.  Little  pros- 
pecting was  done  in  this  year  excepting  on  Josephine  creek  and  its  tributary,  Canyon 
creek,  nor  were  the  diggings  along  these  two  streams  very  well  developed.  Canyon 
creek  has  continued  to  yield  well  ever  since  and  is  still  worked  somewhat.  During  the 
fall  of  1851  a  number  of  Willamette  valley  farmers  and  others  tried  their  fortunes  on 
the  two  creeks,  but  with  indifferent  success,  owing  mainly  to  their  lack  of  skill  and 
almost  total  lack  of  mining  tools.  In  the  following  spring  immigration  set  almost 
entirely  toward  Jacksonville,  and  Josephine  county  was  neglected,  until  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  year  the  Althouse — called  so  for  Phillip  Althouse,  who  washed  the  first 
pan  of  dirt  in  which  gold  was  found  on  that  stream — diggings  were  discovered  and  that 
23lace  quickly  assumed  an  importance  almost  equal  to  that  of  Jacksonville.  Along 
Althouse  creek  for  ten  miles  and  more,  the  diggings  extended  and  a  vast  number  of 
miners  labored  there,  perhaj^s  not  less  than  a  thousand  in  the  most  active  times.  The 
pay  dirt  on  this  stream  in  places  was  of  the  richest  description  and  probably  surpassed 
any  other  locality  in  the  whole  of  Southern  Oregon.  The  aggregate  production  of  the 
mines  on  Althouse  and  Democrat  gulch,  only  separated  by  a  divide,  must  have 
been  enormous,  for  a  very  large  number  of  miners  labored  there  with  satisfactory 
results  for  more  than  fifteen  years.  The  average  yearly  number  could  not  have  been 
less  than  300,  and  was  probably  more.  Other  mining  districts  filled  up  in  like  pro- 
portion, the  principal  ones  being  on  the  tributaries  of  the  Illinois  and  on  Galice  creek, 
and  when  Josephine  was  organized  as  a  county  her  raining  population  was  probably 
not  less  than  2,500.  Nearly  the  same  mutations  were  experienced  here  as  in  Jackson 
county,  in  respect  to  the  alternate  ebb  and  flow  of  fortune  and  poi^ulation,  and  there 
was  a  similarity  in  other  respects,  such  as  the  difiiculty  of  transportation,  the  want  of 
communication  with  the  outer  world,  lack  of  roads,  etc.  Prices  were  extremely  high, 
particularly  in  the  winter  of  1852-3,  when  a  great  many  miners  were  forced  to  leave 
their  claims  for  want  of  food,  and  those  who  had  the  hardihood  to  remain  were  in  many 
cases  reduced  to  the  direst  straits,  and  not  a  few  had  to  live  on  meat  alone,  and  without 
salt.  A  considerable  loss  of  life  from  hunger  and  improper  food  resulted  from  the 
distressing  condition,  which  was  made. so  intolerable  from  the  great  fall  of  snow,  which 
blocaded  the  trails  in  all  directions  and  iH'evented  ingress  or  egress.  Spring  came, 
however,  communication  was  re-established,  pack-trains  began  to  arrive  with  loads  of 
provisions,  prices  decreased,  and  the  miners  set  about  their  season's  work  with  great 
hope  and  courage. 

It  does  not  appear  exactly  when  the  trail  from  Illinois  valley  to  Crescent  City  was 
first  traversed,  but  it  must  have  been  early  in  the  summer  of  1853.  Soon  after,  an 
active  transportation  business  sprang  up,  whereby  pack-trains  became  common,  their 
function  being  to  supply  a  good  part  of  the  miners  with  the  necessaries  of  life,  and 
these  articles  were,  at  a  somewhat  later  date  mostly  shipped  in  by  way  of  Crescent 
City,  which  place  soon  supplanted  its  northern  rival,  Scottsburg,  in  the  importing 
business.     For  several  years  the  trail  to  the  former  point  remained  only  a  trail.     In 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  449 

1854,  people  liaving  become  aroused  to  the  necessity  of  having  a  wagon  road  to  tlie 
coast  agitated  themselves  and  procured  the  survey  of  a  practicable  route.  The  survey 
was  soon  completed,  but  it  was  not  until  1857  that  the  Crescent  City  and  Illinois  wagon 
road  was  commenced.  In  due  time  it  was  finished  and  has  since  been  used  very  much, 
but  in  a  decreasing  degree.  This  noted  and  important  highway,  second  only  to  the 
old  "  Oregon  trail  "  itself,  beginning  at  the  port  of  Crescent  City,  in  Del  Norte  county, 
California,  takes  a  northeasterly  course  to  the  Oregon  state  line,  which  it  crosses  at  a 
l)oint  about  three  miles  south  of  Waldo.  Here  it  assumes  a  generally  north  direction 
and  crossing  the  east  fork  of  the  Illinois,  proceeds  to  Kirbyville,  and  then  bending 
toward  the  northeast,  crosses  Deer  creek  and  reaches  the  Applegate  near  the  mouth  of 
Slate  creek,  and  Rogue  river  at  Long's  or  Vannoy's  ferry.  Still  keeping  a  north- 
easterly course  it  intersects  the  Oregon  trail  at  Louse  creek,  near  the  eastern  border  of 
Josephine  county.  The  Oregon  trail  enters  Josephine  from  the  north,  at  Galesville, 
after  passing  through  the  celebrated  Canyon,  and  proceeds  southward  across  Wolf, 
Coyote  and  Jump-oft-Joe  creeks,  passing  into  Jackson  county  a  short  distance  south  of 
the  latter  stream.  It  was  customary  to  traverse  the  "  hill  route,"  which  lies  over  the 
Grave  creek  and  Wolf  creek  hills,  but  sometimes  the  traveler  chose  a  somewhat  longer 
but  more  level  course  further  to  the  west  and  consequently  crossing  lower  down  those 
streams.  These  routes  were  substantially  the  ones  traveled  by  those  who  came  through 
Southern  Oregon  in  early  years  and  they  have  since  continued  to  lie  the  main  arteries 
of  traffic,  until  supplanted  by  the  railway. 

The  Applegate  road  leading  from  Wilderville  on  Slate  creek, along  the  south  bank 
of  Ajiplegate  river  was  a  thoroughfare  of  some  importance  ;  and  in  late  years  has  been 
the  ordinary  stage  route  from  Jacksonville  to  the  Illinois  valley. 

The  question  of  roads  has  always  been  an  important  and  ever  present  one  in  Jos- 
ephine county.  Permanent  roadways  are  of  difficult  construction  and  expensive  main- 
tenance, and  the  traffic  of  the  country  necessarily  small.  Many  attempts  have  been 
made  to  secure  closer  communication  with  outside  markets,  but  unavailingly.  In  1874 
D.  S.  K.  Buick  surveyed  a  route  to  Chetco,  in  the  southern  part  of  Curry  county.  His 
proposed  road  was  to  begin  at  a  point  eight  miles  north  of  Kirbyville,  and  proceed  in 
a  west-southwest  direction  to  the  coast.  Its  length  was  fifty-seven  miles,  which  is 
twenty-three  miles  less  than  the  Crescent  City  road  from  the  same  point  to  its  ocean 
terminus.  The  steepest  grades  are  said  to  be  less  than  in  the  latter  road,  and  the  high- 
est point  is  but  1,900  feet  in  altitude,  while  the  Crescent  City  road  reaches  an  elevation 
of  4,800  feet.  The  cost  of  the  proposed  road  was  estimated  at  $55,800.  This  high- 
way, though  offering  considerable  advantages  to  the  people  of  the  Illinois  and  Rogue 
river  valleys,  was  never  constructed. 

In  consequence  of  her  limited  area  of  agricultural  land  Josei)hine  county  was 
possessed  of  but  one  principal  resource,  that  of  mining.  In  this  latter  respect  she  exceUed 
all  other  counties  in  Oregon  in  the  amour^t  of  auriferous  gravel  within  her  borders,  and 
probably — though  that  is  an  unascertained  fact — in  the  amount  of  gold  produced.  We 
must  consider  the  county  as  almost  exclusively  a  mining  community,  whence  we  shall 
find  a  reason  for  the  marked  decadence  immediately  succeeding  the  period  of  great- 
est prosperity,  which  we  may  regard  as  ending  in  18G0.  Until  that  time  the  number 
of  Caucasian  miners  in  the  comitv  luid  not  scnsil)ly  diminished  since  the  forniation  of 


450  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

the  new  county,  while  agriculture,  such  as  it  was,  had  got  in  a  fit  way  to  supply  the 
demands  of  these  miners  for  articles  of  sustenance.  In  1857  and  1858  there  took 
place  that  remarkable  mining  craze,  the  Frazer  river  excitement,  which  has  become 
typical  of  all  its  kind.  It  was  directly  responsible  for  a  great  falling  off  in  the  popu- 
lation of  Josephine  county — a  loss  which  was  considerable,  but  whose  extent  is  not 
definitely  known.  The  loss  was,  as  regards  numbers,  nearly  made  up  by  the  increment 
of  Chinese  miners,  and  we  find  accordingly  no  diminution  in  the  number  of  polls  as 
returned  by  the  assessor. 

The  statistical  history  of  the  later  years  of  Josephine  county  is  mainly  embraced 
in  the  assessors'  rolls  for  the  various  years,  from  which  we  extract  the  following 
accounts.  In  1858,  at  a  rather  prosperous  era,  we  find  the  polls  to  have  numbered  712, 
and  the  taxable  property  to  have  been  |313,852.  Three  years  later  the  county  had  a 
total  population  of  about  1,400,  the  number  of  voters  was  724,  the  value  of  real  estate 
was  $253,920,  and  of  personal  property  $347,377,  and  the  rate  of  tax  was  twenty-five 
mills  per  dollar.  Then  came  a  long  period  of  depression,  when  mining  notably 
decreased,  the  aggregate  population  fell  off  one-fifth,  and  the  number  of  voters  one- 
half.  In  1875  the  assessor  returned  the  population  as  numbering,  1,132,  the  polls 
331,  and  the  acreage  under  cultivation  6,269.  The  agricultural  products  of  that  year, 
wheat  16,000  bushels,  oats  9,000,  barley  3,000,  corn  5,000,  potatoes  and  apples  each 
10,000,  and  hay  3,000  tons.  There  were  6,000  sheep,  1,000  cattle,  about  the  same 
number  of  horses,  and  twdce  as  many  hogs.  The  production  of  lumber  for  the  year 
was  45,000  feet.  The  showing  for  1880  was  about  the  same.  The  number  of  polls  had 
increased  to  340,  the  gross  value  of  all  property  was  reckoned  at  $403,932,  of  which 
$253,594  was  taxable.  The  acreage  of  land  enclosed  was  40,972,  whose  average 
value  was  fixed  at  $3.80  per  acre.  For  1882  the  returns  gave  the  number  of  acres  of 
private  land  at  47,500,. valued  at  $187,400;  the  gross  value  of  property,  $452,247; 
taxable  property,  $315,600.  The  polls  had  diminished  to  241.  When  the  Oregon 
and  California  raih'oad  entered  Josephine  county  value  rose  considerably,  as  we  see 
by  the  assessment  rolls  of  1883,  which  give  the  value  of  the  55,889  acres  of  private 
lands  as  $227,746  ;  the  gross  value  of  property,  $563,880;  taxable,  392,351  ;  and  the 
number  of  polls  had  increased  to  547.  The  average  assessment  of  lands  was  $4.07  ; 
there  were  854  horses  and  mules  taxed,  2,070  head  of  cattle,  2,700  sheep  and  2,359 
hogs.  The  population  of  Josephine  county,  as  given  by  the  census  of  1880,  was  2,400 
souls ;  which  by  the  influence  of  steam  communication  has  probably  been  increased  to 
nearly  3,000. 

With  the  foregoing  facts  concerning  the  resources,  extent  and  growth  of  Josephine 
county  in  mind,  and  its  new  advantages  of  access,  the  reader  will  doubtless  be  able  to 
form  conclusions  as  to  its  future.  In  regard  to  its  agricultural  importance,  it  must 
alwavs  remain  very  limited ;  but  not  so  as  to  the  culture  of  special  products.  There 
is  an  abundance  of  land  suitable  for  fruit  growing,  on  which  can  be  raised  a  limitless 
amount  of  the  more  hardy  and  useful  fruits  of  the  temperate  zone.  With  a  very  slight 
difference  in  climate,  there  is  a  strong  parallel  between  the  two  counties  of  Jackson 
and  Josephine  as  to  nearly  all  the  agricultural  products  which  have  been  so  far  experi- 
mented upon.  Probably  every  one  of  the  fruits  which  have  proved  so  signally  suc- 
cessful in  the  Rogue  river  valley,  would  flourish  equally  well  upon  the  hills  of  the 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  451 

Illinois  and  its  tributaries.  The  once  famed  and  prosperous  valleys  of  Sucker,  Alt- 
house,  Galice  and  other  creeks,  exhausted  of  their  golden  store,  may  renew  the  pros- 
perity of  their  former  days  when  the  culture  of  the  vine  and  the  apple  fills  the  vacant 
place  of  a  decreasing  industry.  Farms  are  offered  for  sale  in  the  Illinois  valley  for 
one-half  of  the  value  they  would  command  in  the  Rogue  river  valley.  Much  gov- 
ernment land  remains  unsold  there,  which  would  afford  homes  for  many  whose  exer- 
tions would  elevate  the  condition  of  agriculture  and  benefit  the  county  immensely. 
The  soil  of  these  tracts  is  pronounced  excellent  and  highly  productive. 

Though  in  its  decadence,  gravel  mining  is  not  by  any  means  dead.  Much  valu- 
able ground  remains  to  be  worked,  and  for  this  purpose  great  preparations  are  made 
each  year.  With  the  introduction  of  immense  hydraulic  apparatus,  the  working  of 
the  gravel  beds  has  become  very  rapid  in  comparison  with  the  formei-  mode  of  work- 
ing, whereby  hundreds  of  hands  are  spared  to  other  occupations.  Doubtless  further 
explorations  will  reveal  yet  other  deep  gravel  beds,  whose  working  will  afford  a  con- 
stant supply  of  wealth  to  their  owners  and  to  the  county  for  many  years.  On  quartz 
discoveries  similar  expectations  may  be  safely  based  with  even  more  certainty,  since,  as 
quartz  mines  require  a  longer  time  for  their  discovery  and  working,  and  are  altogether 
less  certain  in  their  returns,  it  follows  that  this  particular  species  of  mining  may  not 
cease  permanently  as  long  as  the  country  remains  inhabited  or  gold  retains  any  value. 


CHAPTER    LV. 


THE  ILLINOIS   AND    ITS  TRIBUTARIES. 

Importance  of  the   Section— Illinois   River  — Deer   Creek     Eight   Dollar    Mountain— Kerbyville— Sucker  Creek 
Fort     Briggs— Althouse     Creek -Browntown  -Quartz     Mining— Waldo—Gravel     Mining— New     Hydraulic 
Claims— Copper   Mines— The   Queen   of   Bronze. 

The  principal  historical  events  of  Josephine  county  are  found  to  cluster  ;il)out 
Illinois  valley.  Along  the  river  of  that  name  and  upon  its  tributaries  by  f;ii-  the 
greater  part  of  the  mining  has  been  done  and  still  is  doing,  and  the  bulk  of  the  pop- 
ulation of  the  county  has  made  its  home  here.  The  greater  portion  of  the  arable  land 
of  the  county  lies  upoiror  near  Illinois  river,  and  farming  to  a  limited  extent  has  been 
an  important  industry.  The  tillable  land  here  is  of  a  very  rich  (piality,  and  produces 
excellent  crojis  of  small  grain,  corn,  fruit  and  potatoes,  usually  sufficient  to  supply  the 
very  limited  market  of  the  immediate  vicinity.  In  early  years  agriculture  and  min- 
ing bore  the  same  relation  as  in.  Jackson  county,  and  the  same  remarks  are  ai)|>licable 
with  the  excei>tion  that  in  Jo.sephine  the  agricultural  land  is  so  limited  in  amount,  that 
tilling  the  soil  could  never  supplant  the  mining  industry,  nor  could  it  afford  occu- 
pation for  the  very  large  population  engaged  in  that  jnirsuit  in  the  early  years.     Hence 


452  SOUTHERN  OREGON 

we  do  not  find  any  considerable  class  of  gold-seekers  retiring  from  their  placers  and 
settling  on  donation  claims  ;  but  when  mining  was  in  its  decadence  the  swarms  of  men 
thrown  out  of  lucrative  employment,  turned  toward  other  mining  districts  beyond  the 
borders  of  Josephine,  and  were  lost  to  the  county. 

Beginning  with  the  Illinois  river,  we  find  the  inhabited  portion  of  its  valley  to 
have  been  the  upper  third  of  its  length,  lying  between  the  California  line  and  a  point 
some  miles  below  Kerbyville,  where  the  stream  enters  a  series  of  narrow  and  deep 
canyons,  which  continue  to  its  mouth,  thirty-five  miles  below.  Along  its  shores  no 
settlements  have  been  made,  and  no  human  habitation  ever  existed  there  save  an 
occasional  miner's  shanty,  built  by  the  hardy  gold-seekers  who  were  working  the 
various  bars  of  the  lower  Illinois.  The  stream  is  hardly  to  be  called  river,  for  in  the 
rainless  season  its  bed  contains  little  water,  but  in  winter  it  becomes  a  torrent,  and 
dashes  swiftly  through  its  stony,  rough  and  crooked  channel.  Low  down  the  Illinois 
there  is  a  tributary.  Silver  creek,  so-called,  which  runs  through  a  deep  and  precipitous 
canyon.  This  stream  derives  its  name  from  a  pretended  discovery  of  silver  ore  upon 
its  bank,  from  which  arose  quite  an  excitement,  with  all  the  concomitants  of  difficult 
accessibility,  high  assays,  and  finally  the  total  collapse  of  the  bubble.  This  hajipened 
in    1879. 

Higher  up  the  Illinois,  and  within  Josephine  county,  we  come  to  the  mouth  of 
Deer  creek,  which  enters  from  the  east,  rising  in  the  divide  between  the  Illinois  and 
Applegate.  Its  name  has  an  obvious  derivation,  and  its  valley  has  been  the  scene  of 
many  historical  incidents.  Here  is  a  small  extent  of  rich  agricultural  land,  which 
early  attracted  settlers,  and  Mooney  was  the  first  to  avail  himself  of  the  privi- 
leges of  the  donation  law.  It  was  in  1853  that  he  came.  Soon  after  came  William 
Wixom,  followed  by  Philpot — whose  murder  by  Indians  is  alluded  to  in  the  history  of 
the  Indian  wars — and  William  McMullin.  Philpot,  it  is  said,  was  sitting  upon  his 
horse  which  was  drinking  from  Deer  creek,  when  concealed  savages  opened  fire  and 
j)ierced  the  rider  with  several  bullets,  killing  him  instantly.  Besides  this,  there  was 
the  Guess  catastrophe,  also  alluded  to,  wherein  the  head  of  the  first  family  to  settle  in 
Deer  creek  valley  was  killed.  The  tragedy  took  place  while  the  victim  was  plowing 
in  his  field.  The  bereaved  widow  subsequently  removed  to  Salem,  but  after  a  resi- 
dence there  of  over  twenty-five  years,  returned  to  the  old  homestead  on  Deer  creek 
in  1882. 

In  the  midst  of  these  troublous  times  Forts  Briggs  and  Hayes  were  built,  the  latter 
being  situated  between  Deer  and  Slate  creeks,  the  former  on  Sucker  creek.  These  were 
fortified  farm  houses,  in  which  the  surrounding  settlers  took  refuge,  and  garrisons  were 
maintained  in  each  of  them  during  the  later  Indian  war.  Fort  Hays  is  on  the  Thorn- 
ton place,  nine  miles  north  of  Kirbyville.  The  Indians  besieged  it  for  a  short  time, 
but  ineffectually.  At  the  time  of  the  battle  of  Eight-Dollar  mountain  the  troops 
rendesvouzed  there.     The  Hayes  family  who  resided  at  the  station  gave  name  to  it. 

Eight-Dollar  mountain,  the  scene  of  an  important  but  indecisive  battle  with  the 
Inilians  in  the  early  months  of  1856,  stands  at  the  south  side  of  Deer  creek  and  in  the 
angle  formed  by  that  stream  and  the  Illinois.  It  is  perhaps  3,000  feet  in  elevation 
above  tide-water.  A  road  passes  over  it  which  has  been  in  use  since  the  earliest  years 
by  travelers   between  the  Illinois  and  Rogue  river  valleys.     The  mountain  derives  its 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  453 

name,  it  is  said,  from  the  price  of  a  pair  of  boots  which  some  one  wore  out  in  a  single 
day's  tramp  over  its  rough  surface.  AVho  tlie  wearer  was  is  differently  stated,  but  is  of 
no  consequence.  The  eminence  is  in  the  pine  region,  and  good  timber  of  that  sort  is 
abundant. 

At  the  mouth  of  Deer  creek  occurred  yet  another  tragedy  in  the  kilHng  of  Horace 
Seeley,  James  Elzey  and  a  German  nicknamed  Dutch  Pete,  in  the  hitter  part  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1856.  These  men  with  M.  Ryder,  A.  Ryder,  Coyle,  Frank  Larkin,  and  two 
others,  were  engaged  in  mining  on  Deer  creek  bar,  where  they  were  surprised  by  Indians, 
and  these  three  were  killed,  the  others  retreating.  Anthony  Ryder  was  wounded, 
but  escaped.     This  incident  occurred  on  the  twenty-sixth  of  February,  1850. 

Six  miles  below  Kerbyville,  on  the  Illinois,  is  Dead  Fish  bar,  a  considerable  mining 
locality,  the  most  valuable  claim  being  once  the  property  of  Peter  Reiser,  but  now 
owned  by  W.  W.  De  Lamatter.  In  the  condition  of  mining  at  present  these  are  some 
of  the  most  important  placer  claims  in  the  whole  country.  The  gravel  beds  are  exten- 
sive and  on  the  claim  mentioned  are  worked  by  a  hydraulic  stream  whose  fall  is  200 
feet.     On  the  other  claims  ground-sluicing  is  chiefly  resorted  to. 

The  history  of  early  times  on  Josephine  creek  embraces  a  vast  deal  of  interesting 
matter,  relating  to  mining  and  prospecting  and  to  Indian  troubles,  from  which  the 
miners  of  the  stream  and  Canyon  creek  were  not  by  any  means  exempt.  Tlie  incident 
of  the  escape  of  John  M.  Bour,  Billifeldt,  George  Snyder  and  another,  from  Indians  in 
the  fall  of  1853  is  given.  The  party  of  four  stood  a  siege  for  many  hours  and  after  nightfall 
left  their  cabin  and  getting  past  the  savages,  found  safety  in  another  camp.  Mr.  Bour 
now  resides  on  the  Illinois  river  several  miles  below  Kerbyville,  and  is  supposed  to  be 
the  oldest  resident  of  the  county.  He  came  to  Canyon  creek  in  August,  1852.  At 
Pearsall  bar,  on  the  Illinois,  and  about  fifteen  miles  below  Kerbyville,  Mr.  Tedford  was 
mortally  wounded  by  Indians,  and  Rouse,  his  partner,  severely  cut  with  an  axe,  as 
previously  recounted. 

Still  further  up  the  Illinois  is  Kerbyville,  the  county  seat  ?nd  the  most  impoit- 
ant  place  in  Josephine  county.  It  is  in  the  extreme  northern  part  of  township  o9, 
south,  range  8,  west.  The  place  was  named  for  James  Kerby,  who  took  a  donation 
claim  there  in  1855,  or  thereabouts.  Two  years  later,  or  in  1857,  the  town-site  was 
laid  off  in  anticipation  that  the  county  seat,  then  at  Waldo,  would  be  changed  to  a 
more  central  locality.  Dr.  D.  E.  Holton  purchased  a  part  of  the  Kerby  claim,  and  became 
instrumental  in  bringing  about  the  change.  S.  Hicks  had  been  a  partner  with  Kerby 
originally,  but  in  1857,  or  the  following  year,  he  abandoned  his  portion  of  the  claim, 
and  C.  R.  Sprague,  who  squatted  upon  the  land,  also  left,  selling  his  rights  to  John  B. 
Sifers,  who  got  a  patent  for  his  laud.  The  new  town  became  a  commercial  center  of 
importance,  and  yet  retains  a  standing  as  such.  The  first  building  was  erected  by  Dr. 
Holton  in  1857,  it  being  a  residence.  The  second  building  of  importance  was  a  hotel, 
now  existing,  and  owned  by  M.  Ryder.  This  was  built  by  G.  T.  Vining,  and  was  con- 
sidered an  extraordinary  structure,  indeed,  it  being  really  a  large  and  commodious 
house.  At  the  same  time,  Vining  built  a  store  and  filled  it  with  a  stock  of  merchan- 
dise, and  began  to  traffic.  David  Kendall  was  his  partner.  Captain  M.  M.  Williams, 
an  enterprising  Scotchman,  who  signalized  himself  in  the  Indian  war  of  185(5,  also 
built  a  store,  which  he  rented  to  the  firm  of  Koshland  (.t   r.rothoi-,  traders,     ^forris  & 


454  SOUTHEEN  OREGON. 

Taylor,  another  firm  of  merchants,  soon  after  built  a  fine  store,  over  which  was  a  hall 
occupied  by  the  Free  Masons.  This  latter  building  was  burned.  In  1857  or  1858,  a 
grist-mill  was  erected  by  Crawford  &  Dodd.  At  the  time  of  these  improvements  min- 
ing was  very  active  in  the  neighborhood.  The  bars  of  the  Illinois  river  were  being 
worked  satisfactorily,  and  Josephine  county  was  seeing  its  palmiest  days.  A  long  and 
costly  bridge  across  the  river  at  Kerbyville  was  built  by  Colonel  Backus.  It  cost 
$7,000,  was  600  feet  long,  the  center  span  was  120  feet,  and  it  was  the  principal  struc- 
ture of  the  kind  in  Southern  Oregon.  The  county  seat  had  been  moved  to  its  present 
location,  and  affairs  were  extremely  lively.  In  1858,  there  were  five  saw  and  grist- 
mills in  the  county,  and  the  same  number  of  school  houses.  Kerbyville  was  described, 
in  1858,  as  improving  rapidly,  and  being  the  liveliest  town  of  its  size  iu  the  state.  It 
had  two  large  stores,  two  sjilendid  hotels  (the  Eagle,  kept  by  C.  C.  Fairfield),  a  livery 
stable,  bai'ber  shop,  and  billiard  saloon.  The  Ci'escent  City  stage  arrived  every  other 
day,  bringing  many  passengei's,  and  taking  away  much  treasure — the  product  of  the 
mines.  By  act  of  the"  legislature  of  January,  1859,  the  name  of  Kerbyville  was 
changed  to  Napoleon — doubtless  because  of  the  renowned  French  emperor,  who  had 
just  conquered  the  Austrians — but  this  cognomen  failed  to  cohere,  and  Kerbyville  the 
place  remains,  except  that  most  people  are  now  in  the  habit  of  leaving  off"  the  final 
.syllable  of  the  town's  name,  and  calling  it  Kerby.  On  September,  23,  1861,  a  destruc- 
tive fire  occurred,  the  loss  being  about  $8,500.  At  present  the  village  contains  the  county 
buildings  ;  stores  of  general  merchandise,  kept  by  Naucke  and  De  Lematter,  respectively ; 
a  hotel,  of  which  M.  Ryder  is  proprietor ;  a  livery  stable  also  owned  1)y  Mr.  Ryder  ; 
and  two  saloons. 

Proceeding  up  the  east  fork  of  the  Illinois,  the  traveler  finds  himself  iu  the  center 
of  what  once  was  the  most  productive  raining  region  in  Oregon.  This  fork,  with  its 
aflluents,  Althouse  and  Sucker  creeks,  and  Democrat  gulch,  have  long  been  celebrated 
as  placer  mining  localities,  and  yet  remain  productive  to  some  extent.  Sucker  creek — 
named  thus  on  account  of  some  Illinoisau  miners — rises  in  the  Siskiyou  mountains 
and  flows  west-southwest  and  falls  into  the  east  fork  at  a  point  nine  miles  north  of  the 

State  line,  and  five  miles  south  of  Kerbyville.     The  first  settler  on  the  creek  was 

Rhoda,  who  established  a  dairy  in  1852,  but  did  not  remain  long.     Early  iu  1852  the 

first  house  in  that  region  was  erected  by  A.  G.  Walling,  E.  J.  Northcut  and Bell, 

near  the  mouth  of  Democrat  gulch,  and  there  sold  supplies  to  miners  on  Sucker  and 
Althouse  creeks.  At  this  place,  known  as  "  Walling's  ranch,"  miners  left  their  horses 
in  charge  while  they  remained  at  the  several  diggings.  Walling  &  Company  gold  to 
Cochran  in  1853.  The  Briggs  and  other  laud  claims  were  early  taken  up.  When  tlie 
Indian  war  of  1855-6  commenced,  the  people  of  Sucker  creek,  then  rather  numerous, 
experienced  some  of  the  ills  attending  it,  and  several  narrow  escapes  were  run.  In  the 
fall  of  1855  Elias  Winklebeck  was  pursued  by  the  Indians  and  compelled  to  take 
refuge  in  Sucker  creek,  where  he  lay  with  only  his  head  out ;  the  enemy  failed  to 
notice  his  location,  and  he  escajDed.  During  hostilities  Fort  Briggs  was  prepared, 
wherein  the  surrounding  settlers  and  miners  took  refuge  to  the  number  of  eighty  or 
more.  This  was  simply  a  palisade  constructed  so  as  to  enclose  George  E.  Briggs'  log 
house.  Mrs.  Briggs,  widow  of  the  former  owner,  still  occupies  the  building.  Elijah 
Johnson  was  mortally  wounded  by  the  Indians  on  Althouse  creek,  and  being  taken  to 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  455 

Fort  Briggs,  died  there  some  time  afterward.  Daniel  "Wiley,  another  victim,  was 
killed  at  the  time  Johnson  was  wounded.     This  occurred  on  October  30,  18o5. 

There  is  a  pleasant  anecdote  relating  to  an  incident  of  Sucker  creek  mining  life 
that  has  been  often  narrated.  A  culprit  had  broken  into  Smith  Brothers's  store— kept 
on  the  creek  in  1857 — and  being  apprehended,  was  taken  before  J.  D.  Post,  justice 
of  the  peace,  for  examination,  and  was  held  to  answer  before  a  higher  court ;  but  as 
Josejihine  county  had  no  jail,  and  the  accused  no  money  to  put  up  as  bail,  his  honor, 
the  justice,  released  the  fellow,  compelling  him  to  sign  a  note  for  fifty  dollars  to  secure 
his  appearance  at  the  pi'oper  time. 

In  the  spring  of  1858,  prospectors  found  quite  extensive  placers  at  the  head  of 
Sucker  creek,  which  they  named  Sepoy  diggings.  At  this  time  the  other  mining 
interests  on  the  creek  were  in  their  decadence,  and  have  steadily  diminished  in  impor- 
tance until  the  present,  when  some  forty  persons  only  are  at  work,  half  of  these  being 
Chinese.  Sucker  creek  possesses  a  saw  mill,  built  in  1868  by  Beach,  Platter  &  Brown, 
and  now  owned  by  the  two  former  partners.  Its  capacity  is"  slight,  the  total  daily 
product  being  1,000  feet  of  luml^er.  It  is  situated  three  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  creek. 

Althouse  creek,  a  still  more  celebrated  and  important  mining  locality  than  any 
yet  mentioned,  empties  into  the  east  fork  at  the  mouth  of  Sucker  creek,  and  like 
the  latter  stream,  also  rises  in  the  Siskiyou  range.  Its  course  is  northwest,  and  it 
receives  several  small  tributaries.  All  the  region  round  about  is  famed  for  its  mining 
operations  in  former  times,  and  is  replete  with  historical  incidents  of  importance. 
Althouse  creek  was  named  for  Philip  Althouse,  who  was  one  of  the  party  who  first 
prospected  the  stream  in  1852.  In  a  very  short  time  a  large  number  of  miners  had 
arrived,  and  hundreds  of  claims  were  staked  out,  over  ten  miles  of  the  creek  bed  being 
occupied  within  a  year.  In  1853  it  was  supposed  that  nearly  1,000  men  were  mining 
there,  though  not  all  at  once. 

A  village — named  Browntown,  in  honor  of  "Web-foot"  Brown,  the  [Honeer 
Brown  of  the  vicinity — was  started  and  it  speedily  became  a  point  of  much  importance. 
At  one  time  Browntown  was  supposed  to  have  had  from  300  to  500  inliabitants.  Near 
by  was  a  less  important  place,  called  Hogtown,  which  was  regarded  as  a  Brooklyn  to 
its  greater  neighbor.  The  Althouse  diggings  continued  to  pay  excellently  for  half  a 
dozen  years,  and  the  population  remained  very  large.  In  1858  the  miners  were  said 
to  be  prospering  finely.  The  hills  near  Browntown  were  being  tunneled  into,  the  sur- 
face having  mostly  been  worked.  In  the  south  hills  were  the  Virginia  Tunnel  Com- 
pany, Patten  &  Company,  Peterson,  Drake  &  Comjjany,  Lanigan,  ^liller  ct  Company, 
and  others,  all  doing  well,  for  coarse  gold,  frequently  in  large  water-worn  slugs,  was 
abundant.  Althouse  creek  was  noted  for  its  yield  of  coarse  gold  in  the  early  days  of 
mining  it.  The  largest  slug  of  pure  gold  was  found  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above 
Browntown,  weighing  nearly  twelve  hundred  dollars. 

The  region  fell  gradually  into  decay  with  the  decrease  of  mining  and  at  a  faster  rate 
than  any  other  section  of  the  country.  In  18(35  Althouse  was  said  to  have  "  nearly 
winked  out,"  and  was  compared  to  Goldsmith's  Deserted  Village,  as  to  its  air  of  desei-ted 
loneliness.  Since  that  time  the  process  of  decay  has  continued,  and  in  spite  of  many 
attempts  to  revive  it,  the  locality  contains  little  to  show  but  the  remains  of  its  fonucr 


456  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

activity  and  importance.  Browntown,  Hogtown  and  Frenchtown  are  known  only 
by  their  names,  and  nothing  is  left  of  them  but  the  indestructible  refuse  of  mining 
camps,  the  tin  cans,  the  culinary  vessels  and  the  rough  stone  chimneys  of  miners' 
cabins.  Nevertheless,  all  life  and  energy  has  not  passed  away.  A  few  gravel  miners 
remain,  and  in  Democrat  gulch  some  work  is  being  done.  On  the  Althouse  is  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  and  extensive  engineering  works  ever  constructed  in  Oregon  for  min- 
ing or  any  other  purpose.  These  are  the  drainage  tunnels  through  the  divide  between 
that  stream  and  Illinois  valley  below  Democrat  gulch.  In  1871  Frederic  and  Peter 
Hansen,  Gustaf  Wilson  and  Chris.  Lutz  commenced  the  first  of  these  tunnels,  which 
is  1,200  feet  in  length,  and  succeeded  in  turning  the  water  of  Althouse  through  it.  In 
1865,  Beach,  Platter  and  Leonard  projected  another  tunnel,  similar  to  the  first,  tapping 
Althouse  creek  half  a  mile  above  the  first  one  and  ending  near  the  mouth  of  Demo- 
crat gulch.  This  was  completed  after  ten  years's  work,  occupying  a  force  averaging- 
five  men  for  that  time.  The  tunnel  is  six  by  seven  feet  and  contains  a  flume  four  by 
four  feet,  through  which  passes  the  water  of  Althouse  creek.  The  object  of  draining 
certain  mining  ground  on  the  creek  was  not  fully  attained,  as  the  tunnel  is  above  the  bed- 
rock of  the  stream.  The  projectors  were  Beach,  Platter  and  Leonard,  who  sold  to 
Harvey  S.  Brown,  of  San  Francisco,  in  1877.  In  1877  Beach  and  Platter  erected  and 
stocked  a  store  in  Democrat  gulch,  which  they  still  carry  on.  A  post  ofiice  was  estab- 
lished there  in  the  same  year,  of  which  C.  H.  Beach  has  since  been  postmaster. 

Althouse,  in  common  with  the  rest  of  Southern  Oregon,  had  a  quartz  excitement 
in  1860.  At  that  date  the  Enterprise  mine,  three  miles  east  of  Browntown,  was 
opened  and  worked  with  profit  for  a  time,  being  abandoned  in  1867.  The  vein  was 
from  eight  to  eighteen  inches  thick  and  was  in  metamorphic  sandstone.  By  arastra 
process  the  quartz  yielded  twenty-six  dollars  per  ton.  Two  tunnels  were  run  and  a 
large  body  of  pay  ore  exposed.  In  1875  the  Oregon  mining  and  milling  company 
re-located  this  claim  and  bought  several  other  quartz  leads  upon  the  Althouse,  and  set 
to  work  to  revolutionize  mining.  They  built  a  ten-thousand-dollar  mill  at  Browntown, 
with  five  stamps,  amalgamating  pans,  settlers  and  other  apparatus.  The  motive  power 
was  water.  '  The  properties  owned  by  the  company  were  the  Enterprise — otherwise 
called  the  Gold  Back  or  Cohen  mine — the  Sucker  ridge  claim,  Yankee  Doodle  mine, 
Jesse  Randall  ledge,  several  reputed  silver  lodes  said  to  be  astonishingly  rich,  and  the 
Althouse  ledge,  near  the  crest  of  the  hill  opposite  the  mill  site.  After  a  few  months 
of  active  prospecting  the  company  suspended  operations,  and  have  not  since  resumed 
them.  Another  association,  the  Webfoot  quartz  mining  and  milling  company,  J.  M- 
Tiernau  superintendent,  succeeded  them  in  1878,  and  proposed  to  establish  reducing 
works  containing  a  reverberatory  furnace  for  treating  sulphurets  containing  gold. 
They,  too,  suspended,  and  the  presumed  rich  quartz  ledges  on  and  near  the  Althouse 
now  lie  neglected. 

Waldo  is  situated  on  Sailor  gulch,  between  the  east  and  west  forks  of  Illinois 
river,  and  only  three  miles  north  of  the  California  state  line.  It  has  been,  and  still  is, 
an  important  mining  camp  and  celebrated  for  the  amount  of  gold  taken  out  in  the 
earlier  years.  The  camp  and  regions  round  about  were  at  first  called  Sailor  Diggings, 
having  been  discovered  by  a  party  of  seamen  in  1852.  At  a  later  period,  when  the 
place  had  grown  much  in  importance,  its  name  was  changed  to  that  in  use  at  present. 


-.Id" 


L.  L .Williams  MoNUMENfi', 
Odd  Fellows  Cemetery,  Rosbburg. 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY  457 

in  honor  of  a  California  politician,  made  the  more  applicable  as  the  place  was  thought 
to  be  in  that  state.  In  1855,  Waldo  had  grown  to  be  the  largest  town  in  the  county, 
and  was  advanced  to  the  dignity  of  county  seat  when  Josephine  was  set  off  from  Jack- 
son county.  This  eminence  it  did  not  retain  long,  but  was  succeeded  by  Kerbyville, 
as  a  more  central  and  convenient  location.  The  population  of  Waldo,  in  185(),  is 
thought  to  have  been  500  persons.  The  place  continued  to  improve  in  later  years,  and 
in  1858  several  substantial  buildings  were  being  put  up,  among  others,  a  large  hotel. 
In  1851,  Hunt's  ditch  brought  water  to  Hhelby  gulch,  where  many  miners  were  work- 
ing. At  the  same  time,  the  Butcher  gulch  flume  was  in  operation,  and  two  saw-mills 
were  turning  out  and  selling  20,000  feet  of  lumber  per  week,  and  trade  was  very  brisk.  The 
village  passed  through  the  ordinary  mutations  of  a  mining  camp,  and  has  fallen  oft* 
very  much  in  later  years,  but  retains  more  of  its  pristine  greatness  than  most  other 
places  in  the  county.  It  is  favored  by  being  on  the  stage  road  to  Crescent  City,  and 
particularly  advantaged  by  the  deep  and  extensive  beds  of  auriferous  gravel  near  by, 
which  are  a  great  resource,  but  not  to  be  worked  until  of  late,  for  want  of  water. 
Bringing  on  a  hydraulic  stream  in  1880,  Wimer,  Simmons  &  Company  took  out  con- 
siderable wealth  in  a  season's  work,  and  since  then  the  firm  of  Simmons  &  Ennis  have 
brought  water  from  a  distance  of  four  miles,  and  have  comjDleted  preparations  to  woik 
a  very  large  and  valuable  deposit  of  gravel,  superior,  it  is  said,  to  any  other  known 
tieposit  in  Oregon.  Their  ditch  is  ten  feet  wide  and  four  feet  deep,  their  hydraulic 
pipe  twenty-two  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  working  head,  150  feet.  They  will  l)e 
a])le  to  pipe  during  half  the  year.     This  claim  is  three  miles  from  Waldo. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Waldo  exist  some  very  promising  and  important  beds  of  copper 
ore.  Of  these,  the  mine  called  Queen  of  Bronze  is  best  known.  Tiie  first  indications 
of  the  metal  were  found  in  1859,  when  a  small  piece  of  native  copper  was  i)icked  up. 
Prospectors  soon  found  some  lodes  of  that  metal,  the  mine  mentioned  being  one  of 
them.  This  ledge  is  no  less  than  fifty  feet  thick  at  a  depth  of  thirty  feet,  and  fourteen 
feet  of  this  is  said  to  be  pure  sulphide,  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  ores  of  copper. 
Much  of  the  ore  from  this  and  surrounding  claims  contains  fifty,  or  more,  per  cent,  of 
metal.  In  1864,  the  ore  from  the  claim  of  Emerson  &  Company  assayed  sixty-five 
per  cent.  In  that  year,  the  Queen  of  Bronze  mine  was  being  developed.  No  use  of 
these  deposits  of  wealth  have  ever  been  made,  and  no  work  of  any  consequence  has 
been  done  in  the  claims,  beyond  developing  two  or  three  to  some  extent.  The  pre.sent 
high  price  of  copper,  far  above  what  it  has  been  for  many  years,  should  stimulate  the 
owners  of  these  lodes  to  endeavor  to  realize  upon  their  undoubted  stores  of  metai. 


CHAPTER    LVI. 


NORTHERN  SECTION  OF  THE  COUNTY. 

Applegate  Creek— Williams'  Creek— Murphy's  Creek— Slate  Creek— Galice  Creek— A  Quartz  Excitement- 
Origin  of  Names — Romance  of  Grave  Creek — Lucky  Queen  and  Other  Mines — The  Oregon  and  Call 
fornia  Railroad— Tunnels — Reminiscences— Hungry  Hill— In  Memorium. 

Crossing  the  water-shed  to  the  north  of  Illinois  valley,  the  traveler  comes  to  the 
Applegate  river  or  creek,  a  considerable  stream,  which,  as  before  said,  rises  in  Jackson 
county  and  flows  northwest  into  Rogue  river,  near  the  center  of  Josephine  county. 
It  is  a  noted  stream,  made  so  by  the  mining  operations  which  have  been  carried  on 
upon  its  banks  since  the  earliest  years.  Its  valley  is  not  very  extensive,  but  quite  a 
number  of  farms  have  been  cultivated  there,  and  the  soil  is  found  to  be  very  productive, 
and  particularly  favorable  to  the  growth  of  fruit  trees.  The  Redlauds  nursery,  the 
most  extensive  establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  whole  region,  is  a  fine  example  of  the 
capacity  of  the  soil  for  j^lant  and  tree  growing.  This  is  located  on  the  Applegate,  at 
the  mouth  of  Oscar  creek,  a  small  tributary.  Some  6,000  young  trees,  principally 
apple,  pear,  plum  and  peach  trees,  have  been  set  out  by  A.  H.  Carson,  the  owner,  and 
are  thriving  luxuriantly. 

Applegate  creek  receives  several  affluents  in  Josejihine  county,  the  principal  ones 
being  Williams',  Murphy's  and  Slate  creeks,  all  of  which  rise  in  the  divide  between 
Applegate  and  Illinois  rivers,  and  flow  north  or  northeast  into  the  former  stream. 
The  first  of  these  is  a  stream  of  some  celebrity,  both  as  a  mining  and  an  agricultural 
region.  Williams'  creek  was  named  for  Captain  Robert  Williams,  the  noted  Indian 
fighter,  who  skirmished  with  the  natives  on  this  creek  in  1853.  Previously,  a  detach- 
ment of  another  company,  under  B.  B.  Griffin,  fought  the  same  enemy,  losing  two 
men.  The  placers  of  Williams'  creek  remained  untouched  until  1859,  when  nearly 
every  other  deposit  in  the  county  had  been  worked,  and  most  of  them  exhausted.  In 
that  year  the  town  of  Williamsburg,  situated  upon  the  creek  in  the  midst  of  the  newly 
discovered  placers,  was  founded,  and  grew  rapidly.  Several  families  resided  there, 
and  at  one  time  a  dozen  trading  posts  were  in  operation.  About  300  miners  were 
working  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  some  of  whom  made  twenty  dollars  per  day 
each.  A  school  house  was  erected,  a  tri-weekly  stage  made  trips  to  Jacksonville,  and 
the  place  had  become  a  woi'thy  successor  of  Browntown  and  Sailor  Diggings,  in  the 
matter  of  liveliness  and  imjwrtance.  C.  W.  Savage  kept  a  hotel  and  lodging  house, 
and  Duncan  put  up  a  saw  mill  two  miles  below  town  and  did  a  large  business  in  the 
manufacture  and  sale  of  lumber.  J.  T.  Layton,  still  a  resident  of  the  vicinity,  and 
for  many  years  a  very  prominent  miner,  devised  a  plan  for  bringing  water  to  the  dig- 
gings, and  in  company  with  Maury,  Davis  and  O'Neil,  completed  nine  miles  of  ditch, 
which  first  delivered  a  stream  of  water  in   Williamsburs;  on  August  11,  1859.     Thus 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  4r)9 

within  a  few  months  tlie  camp  had  become  an  important  one  and  prosperity  ahounded. 
In  due  time  the  mines  were  exhausted,  and  the  busy  workers  sought  other  fiekls. 
Williamsburg  became  an  abandoned  mining  camp,  a  type  of  the  thousands  of  other 
deserted  villages  of  the  same  sort.  But  the  creek  still  retains  some  importance  by 
reason  of  the  deep  gravel  deposits  found  there,  which  require  hydraulic  apparatus  to 
work  them.  Mr.  Layton  has  remained  on  the  sj^ot  and  conducted  some  heavy  opera- 
tions, frequently  with  success.  A  generation  of  farmers  have  occupied  and  cultivated 
the  fertile  valley  of  Williams'  creek,  where  their  farms  have  the  advantages  of  excel- 
lent soil,  as  good  as  any  in  Southern  Oregon,  and  there  is  a  suflBciency  of  water. 
They  have  organized  themselves  into  an  association  called  AVashington  Grange,  which 
dates  its  beginning  from  1875,  and  possess  a  hall  and  a  store,  valued  in  all  at  |5,000- 
W.  W.  Fiddler  had  the  honor  of  being  the  first  master  of  this  Grange,  a  gentleman  of 
literary  ability,  and  who,  while  residing  here,  wrote  an  interesting  account  of  the 
remarkable  cave  on  Williams'  creek,  which  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  this  region  and  a 
rival  in  some  degree  to  the  famous  Mammoth  and  Luray  caves  of  the  Eastern  states. 
It  is  limestone  and  contains  a  complex  series  of  rooms  and  passages  adorned  with  beau- 
tiful stalactites  and  stalagmites,  produced  by  the  continually  dripping  of  water  which 
holds  lime  in  solution  and  deposits  it  when  exposed  to  the  air. 

Some  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Williams'  creek,  the  stream  called  Murphy's  creek, 
flows  into  the  Applegate.  This  is  a  small  water-course  named  for  Barney  Murphy, 
who,  in  1852,  took  the  first  land  claim  ever  held  in  the  vicinity.  His  location  was  near 
the  mouth  of  the  creek.  Upon  the  stream  are  a  grist  mill  and  saw  mill,  driven  by 
waler-2:iower ;  and  near  the  mouth  is  the  jDOstoffice  and  way-station  named  Murphy, 
kept  now  by  James  Wimer.  This  station  is  upon  the  stage  road  leading  from  Jack- 
sonville to  Josephine,  which  follows  along  the  south  side  of  the  Applegate.  Murphy's 
creek,  and  its  vicinity  contain  many  small  tracts  of  land  suitable  for  the  homes  of 
industrious  and  persevering  settlers,  who  would  easily  find  a  market  for  their  sui-|)lus 
pi'oduce.     This  remark  applies  to  the  Applegate  valley  in  general. 

The  third  and  last  of  the  three  streams.  Slate  creek,  receives  its  name  from  the 
character  of  its  rocky  bed.  It  rises  in  the  southwest,  toward  the  head  of  Deer  Creek,  and 
flowing  with  a  rapid  current,  pours  its  waters  into  the  Applegate,  two  and  a-half  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  that  stream.  Its  discharge  is  sufficient  for  the  propulsion  of  very 
heavy  machinery,  for  which  purpose  it  may  likely  come  in  use.  It  abounds  in  tmut, 
the  woods  along  its  borders  contain  game,  and  the  comparatively  limited  aiunuiii  of 
tillable  land  near  by  is  of  good  quality.  Besides,  there  are  deposits  of  auriferous  gravel 
which  have  been  worked  somewhat,  and  may  yet  prove  of  value.  Bybee,  Hawkett  & 
Company's  claim  is  one  of  the  best.  The  village  or  hamlet  called  Wilderville,  situated 
near  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  is  the  only  location  of  auy  note.  Here,  at  one  time,  was 
the  Junction  house,  so-called  from  being  at  the  union  of  two  roads,  the  Crescent  City 
and  the  Rogue  river  and  Api)legate  highways.  In  1857,  this  hotel  was  kept  by  Oliver 
J.  Evans.  The  name  Wilderville  is  derived  from  Joseph  L.  Wilder,  who  laid  out  a 
toAvn,  hoping  that  it  would  become  the  county  seat,  which  its  exact  central  location 
seems  to  fit  it  for,  but  the  people,  in  1880,  voted  against  removing  it  from  Kerbyville. 
Wilderville  now  contains  a  postoffice  and  a  store  of  general  merchandise,  established  in 
1871),  by  Chapin   and  Xickell,  but  now  owned   by  Vance  and  Birdsey.     Near   by  is 


460  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

Slate  creek  station  opposite  Wilderville,  which  was  formerly  the  stopping  place  for  the 
stage  from  Jackson  to  Kerbyville.     J.  Knight,  in  1879,  fitted  np  the  place  as  an  inn. 

Galice  creek  received  its  name  from  Louis  Galice,  a  French  miner  who  worked 
upon  the  stream  in  1852,  having  been  one  of  the  first  to  prospect  it.  The  stream  has 
been  a  very  important  one  on  account  of  the  mineral  wealth  contained  in  its  banks, 
which  were  successfully  worked  for  many  years,  and  are  not  yet  entirely  exhausted. 
A  good  many  miners  came  in  the  early  years,  for  Galice  creek  was  one  of  the  earliest 
diggings  after  Josej^hine  and  Canyon  creeks,  and  some  time  in  those  years  Galliceburg 
was  built  up.  This  was  not  a  camp  exactly,  nor  a  village,  but  was  the  spot  where 
population  was  densest  and  was  accepted  as  a  centre,  and  given  a  name.  At  this  i)lace 
a  trading  post  was  established  by  Wills,  and  McCully  had  a  hotel.  There  were  saloons 
and  the  other  concomitants  of  mining  camps.  The  usual  history  of  placer  mining- 
localities  was  enacted  at  Galice  creek  and  the  story  is  easily  told.  There  were  rich 
strikes,  big  pay,  deep  or  shallow  gravel  which  paid  from  the  grass-roots  down,  a  sloping 
bed  rock,  plenty  or  scarcity  of  water  and  a  considerable  output  of  gold.  Then,  having 
reached  sometime  in  the  fifties  the  climax  of  prosperity,  the  inevitable  decline  begaii 
and  population  and  production  fell  off,  the  white  miners  left,  to  be  replaced  by  Chinese, 
and  Galice  ceased  to  be  of  importance.  During  the  Indian  wai's  some  incidents  of  an 
interesting  nature  occurred  on  or  near  the  creek,  the  principal  one  being  the  memorable 
"  siege  of  Galice  creek  "  in  the  fall  of  1855,  by  the  savages,  immediately  after  their 
raid  through  the  northern  part  of  Josephine  county.  This  is  sufficiently  described  in 
the  history  of  the  Indian  wars.  Another  incident  was  the  hanging  of  Chief  Taylor, 
also  previously  adverted  to.  We  see  by  the  public  prints  that  in  1858  the  miners  of 
Galice  began  to  make  claim  to  a  high  moral  standpoint,  and  while  freely  confessing 
the  previous  deserved  reputation  of  the  Galice  boys  as  drinkers  of  whisky,  they  pro- 
claimed an  entire  change  in  that  respect.  The  shrewd  critic  discerns  herein  a  symptom 
of  the  decay  of  the  diggings,  as  only  rich  placers  are  able  to  support  a  population  given 
to  intoxication  and  merriment,  and  morals  always  flourish  in  proportion  as  the  placers 
decline.     A  temperance  society  is  less  expensive  than  a  saloon. 

The  quartz  excitement  of  1860  was  felt  in  Galice  creek  to  some  extent,  and  a  vein 
was  found  three  miles  above  Witt  and  Arrington's  store,  on  the  right  hand  fork  of  the 
stream.  Sims,  Martin,  Cassiday  and  Dinsmore  possessed  the  best  claim.  In  1874 
another  excitement,  local,  but  of  more  intensity  than  the  first,  broke  out  on  Galice 
creek,  in  the  month  of  December.  The  occasion  of  it  was  the  discovery  of  the  Mam- 
moth and  Yank  ledges,  which  are  about  200  feet  thick  and  extend  across  the  bed  of 
the  Rogue  river  a  short  distance  below  the  mouth  of  Galice  creek.  In  less  than  a 
month  200  claims  were  taken  on  these  immense  veins,  extending  many  miles  along 
their  axes.  The  excitement  was  kept  up  by  the  assayers'  reports  that  gave  in  some 
cases  several  hundred  dollars  per  ton.  Gold  was  said  to  be  visible  in  all  the  quartz 
taken  out,  and  capital  was  earnestly  besought  to  join  with  labor  in  utilizing  the  supposed 
enormous  wealth  of  the  great  vein.  The  roads  were  lined  with  teams  and  individuals 
making  their  way  to  the  new  bonanza,  and  a  great  many  miners  and  speculators  from 
all  parts  of  Oregon  and  California  arrived  at  Galice  in  the  middle  of  the  rainy  season. 
A  wagon  road  to  the  nearly  inaccessible'camp  was  proposed,  and  meanwhile  Captain 
Pressley  boated  several  tons  of  provisions  down  from  the  vicinity  of  Vannoy's  ferry. 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  461 

Saunders  built  a  hotel,  a  good-sized  building,  and  the  tirni  of  Gujiton  and  Buck  put  uj) 
another.  Some  Ashland  people  incorporated  a  mining  company  with  a  capital  ol' 
11,800,000,  to  operate  in  mines,  and  two  mills  were  proposed  by  other  "  capitalist.'^," 
one  to  have  forty  stamps,  the  other  fifty,  (^uartzville,  a  new  town  at  the  mines,  was 
surveyed  into  lots  which  sold  for  fifty  dollars  apiece ;  and  Yankville,  otherwise  called 
Lumberville,  was  a  mile  above  and  also  held  forth  inducements  to  new  comers.  The 
lumber  used  in  the  building  came  mainly  from  the  mouth  of  Jump-off-Joe,  being  floated 
down  the  river  on  scows,  but  a  saw  mill  was  soon  afterwards  built  near  the  mines,  which 
obviated  the  difiiculty.  Eight  here  the  history  of  the  celebrated  quartz  excitement  on 
Galice  creek  ends.  There  is  no  portion  of  the  story  which  relates  to  the  decline  of 
these  mines,  for  the  process  was  too  sudden  to  have  a  story.  Every  one  got  away  as 
quickly  as  possible  and  left  no  indications  of  their  stay,  excepting  an  empty  hotel  and 
the  sign  "  for  sale  "  on  the  corner  lots  of  the  town  of  Quartzville,  or  Galice  City. 

Three  years  later  the  Sugar  Pine  quartz  ledge  in  Galice  creek  was  discovered  and 
AViM-ked  by  the  Green  brothers.  At  the  time  it  was  the  only  quartz  mine  in  successful 
working  in  Oregon.  There  were  two  arastras,  and  the  rock  yielded  from  thirtj'  to 
eighty  dollars  per  ton,  it  was  said.  The  firm  still  po.ssess  the  mine,  which  is  confidently 
stated  to  be  a  good  property  and  a  mine  of  permanent  value. 

Avery  large  amount  of  hydraulic  mining  has  been  done  on  Galice  creek,  where 
extensive  gravel  beds  exist.  As  early  as  1858  the  firm  of  Young  and  Company  pro- 
posed to  employ  a  hydraulic  stream  below  Rich  gulch.  Nearly  twenty  years  after  quite 
an  impetus  was  given  to  mining  in  general  by  the  operations  of  the  so-called  English 
company,  which  purchased  500  acres  of  gold-bearing  gravel  and  set  about  bringing 
water  by  means  of  a  ditch  several  miles  long.  In  the  spring  of  187G  the  association 
began  piping  with  great  success,  taking  out  $20,000,  it  was  reported,  for  the  season's 
work.  They  ran  four  giants  at  one  time.  Opposite  their  claim  was  that  of  D.  C. 
Courtney,  called  the  "  Old  Titus"  diggings.  This  had  a  ditch  seven  miles  long,  built 
in  1878.  At  the  Taylor  diggings  Bybee  had  a  hydraulic  apparatus.  The  Centennial 
comjiany  and  the  Blue  Gravel  company  also  worked  extensively  in  the  same  wa}',  and 
some  of  these  claims  are  still  being  mined  upon. 

Noi-th  of  Rogue  river  the  Oregon  trail  crosses  two  very  celebrated  streams,  Jumj)- 
ott-Joe  and  Grave  creeks,  names  familiar  to  the  inhabitants  of  all  Oregon.  The.>;e 
streams,  with  their  tributaries,  rise  in  the  northwestern  part  of  Jackson  county,  flow 
westward  into  Josephine  county  and  find  their  way  into  the  Rogue  river  in  that  part 
of  its  course  in  which  it  runs  northerly.  These  noted  watercourses  are  of  no  great  vol- 
ume, in  fact,  are  insignificant  brooks,  excepting  in  the  fioods  of  winter.  Into  Jump- 
off-Joe  fiows  Louse  creek,  and  into  Grave  creek  runs  Wolf  creek  ami  Coyote  creek. 
How  these  streams  obtained  their  peculiar  names  has  long  been  a  much-asked  (]uestion. 
INIore  has  been  written  on  the  subject  than  upon  aught  else  belonging  to  their  history. 
Louse  creek,  Wolf  creek  and  Coyote  creek  require  no  explanation.  Their  cognomens 
are  doubtless  derived  from  the  prevalence  of  those  different  species  of  wild  animals 
u|)on  their  banks.  As  to  Jump-off- Joe,  report  has  it  that  some  individual,  known  as 
Joe,  was  compelled  to  leap  into  the  stream  to  eseai)e  danger.  But  these  reports  cannot 
be  traced  to  any  authentic  source.  Probably  the  .stories  of  Joe  ^[cLaughliu,  Joseph 
Lane  and   the  other  Joes  were  invented  to  account  for  the   name,  and  were  not  its   real 


462  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

origin.  It  seems  by  far  the  most  probable  conclusion  that  the  name  arises  from  some 
.  Indian  word,  of  whose  sound  "  Jump-off-Joe  "  is  an  imitation.  The  jjresent  name  is 
said  to  have  been  applied  as  early  as  1837,  which  is  highly  possible. 

The  derivation  of  the  name  Grave  creek  carries  with  it  a  romance  of  no  ordinary 
cast.  In  1846  the  Applegates,  as  has  been  said,  jjiloted  the  immigrants  of  that  year 
to  Oregon  by  the  newly  explored  southern  route.  Among  these  jjeople  was  a  family 
named  Crowley,  who  had  a  daughter,  Martha  Leland  Crowley,  who  was  taken  ill  and 
died  at  the  crossing  of  the  stream  called  now  Grave  creek.  She  was  "buried  there, 
under  the  shadow  of  a  pine  tree,  and  in  order  that  the  Indians  should  not  exhume  her 
remains  for  the  sake  of  her  garments,  all  traces  of  the  burial  were  obliterated,  and  cat- 
tle were  corralled  upon  the  spot.  Her  coffin  was  made  from  a  wagon  box,  as  is  instanced 
by  several  persons  who  were  personally  more  or  less  conversant  with  the  affair,  among 
whom  are  Theodore  Prater,  now  in  Lower  California,  and  Mrs.  Rachel  Challinor,  of 
Glendale,  both  of  whom  helped  bury  the  deceased.  The  remains  of  the  unfortunate 
girl,  it  would  appear,  were  dug  up  by  the  Indians,  though  this  fact  has  been  disputed. 
Several  persons  contend  that  they  have  seen  the  grave  before  and  after  it  was  violated^ 
and  therefore  refuse  to  admit  the  possibility  of  a  mistake  in  identity.  Of  these  is  Colonel 
Nesmith,  who  first  set  eyes  upon  the  j^laceof  interment  in  1848,  and  found  that  it  had 
been  opened  and  that  the  bones  were  scattered  about  the  pit.  These,  says  the  colonel , 
were  rej)laced,  and  the  grave  again  partly  filled  with  earth.  According  to  the  same 
authority,  certain  Indians  who  were  killed  a  few  days  after  the  close  of  the  war  of  18oo 
were  also  thrown  into  the  grave,  so  that  Miss  Crowley's  remains  rest,  perhaps,  with 
those  of  the  savages  who  desecrated  her  last  abode.  Mrs.  Crowley,  mother  of  the 
young  lady,  is  now  in  Polk  county,  where  she  married  Mr.  Fulkerson,  her  first  hus- 
band having  died.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  evidence  to  substantiate  the  truth  of  the 
above  account,  with  the  exception  of  the  exhumation  of  the  body,  which,  after  all,  is 
scarcely  material  to  the  subject  of  how  Grave  creek  got  its  name.  There  would  ordi- 
narily have  been  no  doubt  on  the  subject  had  it  not  been  that  the  history  of  Josephine 
county  deals  with  another  young  lady,  the  Miss  Josephine  Rawlins,  or  Rollins,  from  whom 
the  county's  name  is  derived,  as  previously  related,  and  the  two  females,  though  not  by 
any  means  contemporaries,  have  become  confounded  together  in  some  measure,  as  such 
accounts  inevitably  will,  when  only  preserved  through  people's  recollections.  Thus  from 
the  death  and  burial  of  Miss  Crowley,  Grave  creek  obtained  its  name.  In  after  years  a 
famous  place  of  entertainment  for  travelers  was  opened  here  by  Bates,  who  afterwards 
sold  to  two  men,  James  Twogood  and  Harkness,  who  remained  until  the  latter's  death 
by  Indians  in  the  spring  of  1856.  Twogood  is  said  to  be  now  living  in  Boise,  Idaho. 
They  named  this  place,  previously  called  the  Bates'  tavern,  the  Grave  creek  house ; 
and  when,  in  1854,  the  legislature  changed  the  name  to  Leland  creek,  in  honor  of  the 
girl  we  have  been  speaking  of,  the  firm  of  Harkness  and  Twogood  called  their  place 
Leland  creek  house.  By  the  name  of  Leland  the  post  office  at  the  creek  is  known, 
but  the  ancient  name  of  Grave  creek  seems  ineradicable,  and  is  interwoven  with  many 
scraps  of  the  country's  history. 

In  mining  the  northern  part  of  Josephine  county  has  had  something  of  a  record. 
In  the  upper  part  of  Grave  creek  valley  a  great  deal  of  gravel  has  been  found  contain- 
ing gold,  and  the  deposits  have  been  worked  with  ordinary  success.     Hydraulic  appa- 


JOSEPHINE  COUNTY.  4(J3 

ratus  has  been  instituted  in  quite  a  number  uf  instances,  and  several  ditches  of  cunsid- 
erable  length  and  capacity  have  been  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  tlie  pipes. 
On  Wolf  and  Coyote  creeks,  a  similar  experience  has  been  had.  On  the  latter  stream, 
and  in  Jackson  county,  is  the  Coyote  Creek  Mining  Company's  claim,  better  known  as 
the  Kelly-Ruble  location,  which  is  now  regarded  as  the  richest  mining  ground  in  the 
county,  and  is  the  subject  of  an  important  lawsuit. 

Besides  containing  large  amounts  of  gravel  of  a  rich  sort,  this  portion  of  Josephine 
county  abounds  with  ledges  of  quartz,  many  of  which  have  been  prospected,  with  good 
results.  The  Esther  or  Browning  mine,  on  Grave  creek,  and  the  Lucky  Queen  mine, 
on  Jump-off-Joe,  have  attracted  the  most  notice.  The  latter  is  situated  two  and  a-half 
miles  east  of  the  stage  road  and  very  near  the  county  line.  It  was  the  property  of  a 
joint-stock  association  of  men,  mostly  residents  of  Southern  Oregon.  The  works  on 
and  in  the  mine  are  believed  to  be  the  most  extensive  in  the  state,  the  aggregate 
length  of  shafts  and  tunnels  being  nearly  1,000  feet.  The  ore  is  very  complex,  con- 
taining various  base  metals,  besides  silver  and  gold,  and  assays,  in  places,  very  high. 
A  ten-stamp  mill  was  built  in  1875,  and  included  various  experimental  devices  for 
extracting  the  gold.  For  several  years,  work  progressed  at  the  Lucky  Queen,  but 
suspended  finally  in  1879. 

Of  still  greater  importance  than  gravel  or  quartz  mines,  the  railroad  next  claims 
the  reader's  attention.  The  progress  of  the  Oregon  &  California  line  through  the  Cow 
creek  and  Grave  creek  country  was  marked  by  some  of  the  most  difficult  of  engineer- 
ing works,  of  which  the  most  considerable  are  the  nine  tunnels  found  between  the  South 
Umpqua  and  Jump-off-Joe.  The  length  of  these  ai"e  officially  given  as  follows,  begin- 
ning with  the  most  northerly:  Tunnel,  number  one,  forty-six  miles  south  of  Roseburg, 
258  feet;  two,  :382  feet;  three,  442  feet;  four,  323  feet;  five,  340  feet;  six,  514  feet; 
seven,  100  feet;  eight  (known  as  Cow  creek  tunnel,  between  Cow  and  Wolf  creeks), 
2,805  feet;  nine  (Grave  creek  tunnel),  2,112  feet.  The  altitudes  of  several  places  on 
the  road  are  as  follows:  Roseburg,  485  feet;  Glendale,  1,440;  Cow  creek  tunnel, 
1,(319;  Grave  creek  tunnel,  1,549;  the  Rogue  river  crossing,  l,ir><.).  Witliin  Jose- 
phine county  there  are  thirty  and  one-half  miles  of  road,  upon  which  are  several  (piite 
long  and  lofty  trestles  and  bridges.  The  Brimstone  trestle  required  over  half  a  mil- 
lion feet  of  lumber  in  its  construction,  and  the  Grave  creek  bridge  is  120  feet  higii,  its 
central  span  is  120  feet  long  and  the  bridge,  with  its  approaches,  is  424  feet  in  lengtii. 
The  cuts  are  on  a  scale  commensurate  with  the  tunnels  and  trestles,  and  many  of  them 
are  in  such  extremely  soft  ground  that  the  difficulty  of  maintaining  the  i-oad  is 
immensely  increased  by  reason  of  the  land-slides  which  are  prone  to  take  place. 

From  the  foregoing,  it  will  easily  be  seen  that  northern  Josephine  is  not  by  any 
means  deficient  in  interest.  Almost  the  first  events  of  which  the  student  of  Southern 
Oregon  history  has  knowledge,  were  enacted  on  the  old  California  and  Oregon  trail, 
and  many  a  scene  of  romance  and  danger  has  since  been  viewed  there.  In  the  early 
Indian  wars,  that  locality  was  the  scene  of  the  terrible  nuirders  committed  by  ilie 
revolting  savages,  and  many  of  the  victims  of  their  famous  raid  were  settlers  in  the 
Joseiihine  county  of  a  little  latei'  date.  Here,  too,  occurred  the  active  operations  which 
took  place  in  the  following  war  of  retrii)ution  against  the  natives.  The  Grave  Creek 
House  was  the   head<|uarters  of  a    contingent   of  the   volunteer  army.      In  the   Grave 


464  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

creek  hills,  some  miles  west  of  the  railroad  line,  there  took  place  the  first,  aud  perhaps 
the  most  important  battle  of  that  war.  This  was  Hungry  Hill,  for  a  description  of 
which  action  the  reader  is  referred  to  previous  pages  of  this  book.  The  locality  of 
this  fight  will  ever  remain  a  classical  spot,  made  interesting  by  the  death  of  many 
brave  and  worthy  men.  This  memorable  field  of  strife  is  now  almost  unknown,  save 
to  the  few  present  survivors  of  the  volunteers,  who  occasionally  visit  it.  Rank  under- 
brush and  grasses  have  usurped  the  place  where  blood  was  shed,  and  only  those 
familiar  with  the  ground  can  point  out  even  the  last  resting  place  of  the  dead  who 
fell  there.  Several  persons,  among  them  General  Ross  and  J.  W.  Sutton  (deceased  in 
1879),  both  participants  in  the  battle,  have  given  utterance  to  a  desire  that  the  brave 
men  who  fell  there  should  be  honored  with  some  kind  of  a  memorial — a  simple  mon- 
ument, at  least,  whereby  their  graves  might  be  known.  Enlarging  upon  this  idea, 
Mr.  Sutton  proposed  a  monument  to  the  fallen  of  the  Indian  wars,  to  be  erected  by 
the  public — a  measure  so  just  and  patriotic  as  to  excite  surprise  that  it  has  not  been 
carried  out.  To  build  such  a  monument  should  be  the  immediate  work  of  the  public- 
spirited  jjeople  of  Southern  Oregon.  Of  a  visit  to  the  battle-field  of  Hungry  Hill 
Mr.  Sutton  wrote,  in  a  style  worthy  of  Irving  : 

"  Some  summers  since,  while  passing  the  little  cemetery,  I  halted  for  the  purpose 
of  visiting  the  grave  of  my  old  comrade.  I  stood  beside  the  little  row  of  graves  that 
I  found  blended  into  one,  the  mounds  now  hardly  distinguishable ;  no  board  or  stone 
at  head  or  foot  is  found ;  no  one  can  tell  these  graves  apart.  In  unity  they  met  a 
common  foe ;  in  unity  they  fell ;  in  unity  they  lay  beneath  the  sod,  awaiting  the 
judgment  day.  In  vain  I  sought  to  determine  the  grave  of  my  old  friend  ;  it  was 
lost,  lost  amid  its  comrade  graves.  After  a  short  search  among  the  weeds  and  grass 
that  covered  the  graves,  I  found  a.  fragment  of  a  half-decayed  board,  on  which  I 
could  trace  the  inscription  which  my  own  hand  had  carved  full  twenty  years  before — 
'Jonathan  Pedigo;  killed  by  Indians  at  the  battle  of  Hungry  Hill.  Oc- 
tober 31,  1855."" 


IP    ^   O   I    ^^   I    o 


-X-lLJSEJD.00         CHIJ^IHlc^ICHISC 


CURRY   COUNTY. 


CHAPTER    LVII. 


DESCRIPTION    AND  RESOURCES. 


Position    of    the     County —Extent— Streams— Forests— Harbors— Roads— Natural    Resources— Beach     Mining- 
Other  Placers— Quartz -The  Common  Metals  and  Minerals— Lumbering— Condition  of  Agriculture— Fisheries. 

Curry  county  lies  in  the  extreme  soutliwe.st  corner  of  Oregon.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Coos  county,  on  the  east  by  Josephine,  on  the  south  by  the  state  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  ocean.  Its  greatest  length  from  north  to  south 
is  about  sixty-five  miles ;  its  average  breadth  about  twenty-eight ;  and  its  area  about 
1,500  square  miles,  or  960,000  acres.  Curry  is  essentially  a  mountainous  country,  con- 
taining scarcely  any  level  land  in  comparison  with  its  whole  area.  It  is  a  region  of 
streams,  large  and  small,  and  of  trees,  shrubbery  and  grass,  and  is  variegated  and 
diversified  in  the  most  extraordinary  degree.  The  mountain  ranges  are  not  very  lofty, 
but  are  much  broken  up,  with  their  axes  lying  in  every  direction.  The  streams  all 
find  their  way  westward  to  the  Pacific,  through  canyons  and  narrow  valleys.  The 
principal  rivers  and  creeks,  beginning  on  the  north,  are — New  river.  Floras  creek, 
Sixes  river.  Elk  creek.  Euchre  creek.  Rogue  river.  Hunter's  creek.  Pistol  river,  Chetco 
river  and  Windchuck  river — the  last  being  at  the  California  line.  All  these  flow 
nearly  a  west  course  and  enter  the  ocean.  In  the  interior,  Illinois  river  flows  into  Rogue 
river  about  twelve  miles  east  of  the  coast  line  ;  Silver  creek,  a  small  tributary  of  the 
Illinois,  enters  from  the  south  ;  and  John  Mule  creek,  an  affluent  of  Rogue  river,  enters 
that  stream  from  the  north  side,  near  the  Big  Bend.  All  these  streams  are  swift 
and  turbulent,  and  with  one  or  two  exceptions  have  no  long  smooth  reaches  fit 
for  even  boat  navigation.  They  are  only  mountain  torrents,  and  like  other  streams 
of  the  sort  are  generally  well  stocked  with  fish,  brook  or  mountain  trout  existing  in  the 
more  rapid  portions,  while  salmon  and  snlinon  trout  swarm  in  certain  seasons.  The 
valleys  of  all  these  streams  are  very  narrow,  but  eacli  contains  a  .•^mall  portion  of  very 
rich  land  which  well  repays  cultivation.  The  rolling  hills  and  the  .so-called  "prairie.s" — 
which  are  simply  small  tracts  devoid  of  trees — furnish  the  most  excellent  and  abundant 
grasses.  Generally  speaking,  the  surface  of  Curry  county  is  a  vast  forest  of  various 
soft  and  hard  woods,  over-si)reading  mountain,  hill  and  valley,  and  clothing  the  land 
with  a  beautiful  and  variegated  carjiet  of  the  richest  colors.  Tlie  growth  of  lai-ge  ever- 
green trees  is  wonderful  in  its  hixuriaiice,  showing  the  great  capacity  of  the  soil  for 
supporting  plant  growth. 


466  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

The  coast  of  Curry  county  is  comparatively  regular  and  unbroken,  and  is  conse- 
quently lacking  in  harbors  and  sheltered  locations  where  shipping  might  take  refuge 
from  storms.  The  commerce  of  the  region  is  subserved  by  some  few  landings,  called 
summer  harbors,  and  by  the  comparatively  good  and  safe  havens  of  Port  Orford  and 
the  mouth  of  Eogue  river.  The  former  of  these  is  the  most  promising  and  important 
in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  inasmuch  as  it  furnishes  an  accessible  anchorage,  easily 
gained  in  time  of  storms,  and  sheltered  from  all  but  the  southwesterly  gales  of  winter. 
The  bar  at  the  mouth  of  Eogue  river  prevents  its  embouchure  from  being  more  than  a 
tolerable  fair  weather  port  at  present,  but  with  the  expenditure  of  capital  it  is  thought 
it  might  be  bettered  very  materially.  Chetco  has  a  summer  harbor,  but  the  isolation 
and  small  extent  of  the  surrounding  productive  region, added  to  its  nearness  to  Crescent 
City  prevent  it  from  attaining  present  importance.  Several  other  less  known  landings 
exist,  which  may  come  in  use  for  shipping  lumber  and  dairy  products. 

The  mountains  of  the  interior  approach  the  coast  at  all  points  and  frequently 
form  rocky  and  abrupt  headlands  hundreds  of  feet  high.  As  a  consequence  communi- 
cation by  land  is  very  difficult.  From  the  northern  verge  of  the  country  to  a  consid- 
erable distance  south  a  smooth  sea  beach  forms  a  sufficiently  good  road  for  horses  and 
vehicles,  but  from  Port  Orford  south  to  Chetco  the  highway,  except  for  short  spaces,  is 
merely  a  trail.  To  the  east  there  are  no  roads  whatever,  nor  can  there  be  without  the 
expenditure  of  much  money.  The  interior  of  Curry  county  is  jjractically  uninhab- 
ited, a  few  localities  only  excepted,  where  lumbermen  or  stock-growers  have  habita- 
tions. They  have  no  roads,  only  trails.  In  1878  a  road  was  surveyed  to 
Josephine  county,  but  never  built,  although  said  to  be  plainly  practicable.  As  early 
as  1852  a  trail  was  laid  out  from  Port  Orford  to  intersect  the  Oregon  and  California  trail 
at  Grave  creek,  but  the  route  was  scarcely  ever  traveled. 

The  natural  resources  of  Curry  county  are  various  and  considerable.  Of  the 
mineral  kingdom  there  are  gold,  silver,  coal,  building  stone,  copper,  iron  and  chromium, 
whose  existence  is  a  factor  of  value.  Gold  has  been  mined  on  the  coast  of  Curry 
county  for  thirty  years.  The  beach  mines  are  a  remarkable  phenomenon,  as  the  gold, 
in  a  very  finely  divided  condition,  is  mingled  with  the  black  sand  which  has  been 
w^ashed  up  from  the  deep  and  deposited  along  the  shores.  The  manner  of  extracting 
the  gold  from  the  sand,  while  it  is  a  species  of  placer  mining,  is  somewhat  different  in 
detail  from  the  ordinary  gravel  mining  on  streams,  inasmuch  as  the  gold  is  finer,  and 
therefore  more  liable  to  be  carried  away  by  the  stream  used  for  separating  it  from  the 
sand.  Besides,  the  gold  is  often  coated  with  a  substance  thought  by  the  miners  to  be 
iron  rust.  This  coating  interferes  seriously  with  the  operation  of  saving  the  gold,  for  it 
prevents  its  amalgamation  with  quicksilver,  which  it  is  necessary  to  use,  because  of  the  fine- 
ness of  the  particles.  In  former  times  the  gold  was  saved  by  washing  upon  blankets  and 
rough  sluices,  with  "  drops  "  containing  perhaps  a  whole  flask  of  mercury ;  but  after- 
wards amalgamated  copper  plates  were  introduced,  as  in  quartz  mills,  which  are  more 
efficacious.  The  miners  are  considerably  troubled  by  the  tides  and  waves,  which  oblit- 
erate their  workings  and  cover  up  the  auriferous  beds  with  layers  of  barren  sand. 
Very  productive  mines  have  at  times  been  discovered  in  the  old  beaches  which  are 
found  many  feet  above  the  present  water  level,  and  these  discoveries — called  bluft  dig- 
gings— can  be  worked  with  comjDarative  ease  and  immunity  from  the  ravages  of  ocean. 


CURRY  COUNTY.  407 

The  principal  beach  mines  thus  far  worked  liave  been  found  on  the  sliore  north  and 
south  of  tlie  mouth  of  Rogue  river,  and  exteniUng  about  twent3'-five  miles  along  tlie 
coast.  This  portion  of  the  shore  is  called  Gold  Beach,  a  name  that  was  given  on  the 
discovery  of  the  ocean  placers  in  early  years.  They  are  still  worked  occasionally  with 
good  results,  and  are  regarded  as  equally  reliable  with  ordinary  placer  mines.  It  is 
thought  that  this  speciea  of  mining,  now  producing  comparatively  little,  could  by  sys- 
tematic endeavor  be  made  to  pay  well.  The  Cooley  claims  on  Ophir  beach  are  of  this 
sort  and  are  proving  signally  successful.  The  placer  mining  of  Curry  county  is  not 
entirely  confined  to  the  beach  and  bluff  diggings  alone,  but  good  prospects  have  been 
found  on  many  mountain  streams,  and  well  paying  placers  have  been  worked  in  many 
locations.  On  Rogue  river  and  its  tributaries,  mining  upon  the  bars  has  long  been  a 
favorite  pursuit,  and  certain  flats  upon  the  main  stream  are  regarded  as  very  valuable 
for  the  metal  contained  therein.  The  Big  Bend  flat,  in  particular,  is  sanguinely  con- 
sidered to  be  rich  in  gold.  Sixes  river  is  a  stream  of  some  note  in  mining  affairs  and 
its  sands  have  been  worked  with  fair  results  for  some  years  and  the  claims  are  not  yet 
abandoned. 

In  quartz  very  little  has  been  done  in  Curry  county.  Several  veins  of  gold-bear- 
ing rock  have  been  prospected,  particularly  about  the  headwaters  of  Sixes  river,  with 
encouraging  results,  but  no  mines  of  great  consequence  have  been  o]iened,  nor  have 
mills  been  built.  A  large  area  yet  remains  to  be  thoroughly  pros])ected,  and  it  is 
highly  possible  that  good  veins  may  be  found. 

Several  other  minerals  of  value  are  found,  The  following  brief  estimate  of  their 
importance  having  been  made  by  Mr.  F.  A.  Stewart,  of  Port  Orford  :  "  Copper  has 
been  found  in  well  defined  leads  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  also  along  it, 
and  on  some  of  its  tributaries,  as  well  as  in  the  'Lake  of  the  Woods'  mountains  just 
back  of  Ellensburg.  Iron  and  chrome  exist  in  fabulous  quantities  in  many  places, 
but  generally  too  hard  of  access  to  attract  capital  for  many  years  to  come.  On  the 
Illinois  exists  a  bed  of  chrome,  which  was  pronounced  in  Swansea,  England,  to  be  the 
finest  in  the  world  ;  but  the  cost  of  getting  it  to  tide  water  precludes  the  idea  of  its 
shipment.  Coal  has  been  found  in  apparently  large  quantities,  two  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Illinois  ;  also  above  the  Big  Bend,  and  in  various  other  localities,  (^uite 
large  j^ieces  have  been  picked  up  on  the  coast,  four  miles  below  Ellensburg,  and, 
although  of  superior  quality,  it  has  never  been  prospected  for.  Freestone  of  the  finest 
color  and  (juality,  constitutes  the  rocky  headlands  that  make  the  summer  harbor  of 
Hunter's  heads,  and  Mack's  Arch.  Yet  these  magnificent  quarries,  although  so  handy 
that  their  hugest  stones  could  be  swung  by  cranes  upon  the  decks  of  vessels,  secure  in 
good  harbors,  are  still  untouched  by  the  vandal,  but  magic  hand  of  trade.  Marble 
also  has  been  found  in  many  ])laces,  but  generally  in  remote  and  retired  situations,  so 
little  liable  to  be  disturbed  that  it  would  make  a  vci'v  aiipnipriate  oinlijem  of  peace — 
especially  for  its  whiteness  and  |)urity.'" 

In  the  production  of  choice  lumber  Curry  county  holds  a  very  eminent  i)lace. 
The  county  generally  is  well  wooded,  with  a  heavy  and  dense  growth  of  various  timber 
trees,  chiefly  soft  woods.  The  Port  Orford  cedar  is  the  most  valuable  and  important 
of  these,  and  furnishes  a  large  quantity  of  the  fine.st  lumber  for  finishing  pur])oses, 
which  finds  a   readv  sale   in   San    Franciseo,  at    hi-li   rates.     Two  saw   mills,  the  Elk 


468  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

creek  and  Hubbard  creek  mills,  bave  dealt  exclusively,  almost,  with  tbis  sort  of  lumber 
and  have  manufactured  an  enormous  amount  in  the  years  of  their  activity.  Secondary 
to  this  variety,  are  two  sj^ecies  of  fir,  both  valuable  and  abundant,  and  a  considerable 
(juantity  of  live-oak  and  other  trees  more  or  less  valuable.  Of  the  varieties  of  fir  and 
cedar  very  large  quantities  exist,  extending  eastward  to  and  beyond  the  borders  of  the 
county.  Each  and  every  stream  is  shaded  by  groves  of  these  monster  evergreens, 
which  exist  in  countless  numbers.  The  most  activity  is  shown  in  manufacturing  cedar 
lumber,  but  considerable  attention  has  of  late  been  given  to  the  pine  forests  upon 
Rogue  river,  some  distance  up  stream.  The  experiment  of  floating  sugar  pine  logs  from 
the  extensive  pineries  of  Josephine  county  was  tried,  but  unsuccessfully.  The  design 
was  to  bring  them  to  the  steam  mill  at  Elleusburg.  Besides  pine  Rogue  river  is  lined, 
particularly  the  lower  portion  of  its  course,  with  fir  timber  of  immense  size. 

The  principal  agricultural  resource  of  the  present  day  is  grazing.  The  farming- 
laud  of  the  county  being  confined  to  the  narrow  valleys  at  the  lower  part  of  the  rivers 
and  creeks,  and  to  a  small  proportion  of  table  land  lying  somewhat  higher  up,  it  fol- 
lows that  the  culture  of  farm  products  can  never  attain  importance  in  corajiarison  with 
other  and  more  extensive  sections.  There  is,  however,  ample  opj^ortunity  for  i-aising 
sufficient  of  the  ordinary  farm  and  garden  products  to  satisfy  the  local  demand,  except- 
ing in  isolated  localities,  which  may  continue  to  require  importations  of  necessaries 
from  outside  places.  The  small  amount  of  tillable  soil  in  Curry  county  is  of  most 
excellent  quality,  producing  immense  croi^s  of  vegetables,  and  yielding  fair  amounts  of 
wheat  and  other  grains.  Dairying  and  stock  growing,  particularly  the  latter,  are  the 
principal  present  and  jjrospective  supports  of  the  small  agricultural  community,  and 
are  the  pursuits  of  prime  importance.  A  very  large  amount  of  grass  of  the  best 
quality  grows  in  the  "  prairies"  (open  spaces  on  the  hills),  and  furnishes  pasturage  for 
a  large  number  of  cattle  and  sheep.  In  the  matter  of  dairying,  Curry  county  has  the 
advantage  that  grass  remains  green  for  nearly  the  whole  year,  kept  so  by  the  ocean 
breezes,  laden  with  moisture  from  the  warm  Japanese  current.  Hence,  the  best  of 
butter  can  be  produced,  even  from  the  natural  grasses,  while  domesticated  grasses  also 
flourish  excellently.  Probably  Curry  county  is  able  to  produce  as  good  a  quality  of 
butter  as  the  far-famed  dairies  of  Point  Reyes,  in  California,  which  owe  their  pre-emi- 
nence to  the  same  fact  of  the  moist  ocean  climate  of  their  locality.  Probably  e(|ual 
facilities  do  not  exist  on  the  Pacific  coast  outside  of  Curry  and  Coos  county,  for  making- 
first-class  butter  and  cheese.  At  present  these  facilities  are  by  no  means  fully  recognized 
and  appropriated,  for  although  several  private  dairies  exist,  they  are  only  sufl[icient  in 
number  to  demonstrate  the  value  of  this  pursuit.  The  lack  of  speedy  and  regular 
transportation  to  San  Francisco,  the  only  reliable  market,  is,  however,  a  very  serious 
drawback  and  difficult  to  be  remedied. 

The  fisheries  of  Curry  county  are  an  important  source  of  -wealth.  The  salmon 
tribe  frequent  all  the  rivers  and  creeks  in  immense  numbers,  and  a  cannery  has  been 
established,  of  which  we  will  speak  further.  In  addition,  there  are  several  fisheries, 
so-called,  where  salmon  are  caught,  and  salted  for  export  in  barrels.  On  nearly  all 
the  streams  similar  establishments  might  prove  profitable,  owing  to  the  abundance  of 
the  fish,  and  to  their  good  quality. 


IkPi- 


M*-'. 


CHAPTER    LVIII. 


EARLY    HISTORY  OF    THE   COUNTY 

First  Exploration  of  the  Coast— Vancouver's  Voyage— The  Natives— Cape  Blanco,  or  Orford  New  Cities 
Founded  Along  the  Coast — Captain  Tichenor's  Design — A  Colony  Formed  -Siege  of  Battle  Rock— Escape 
of  the  Nine  A  Larger  Force  Left  at  Port  Orford- -T'Vault's  Explorations— Sad  Fate  of  Five  Men  -Hero- 
ism of  Cyrus  Hedden  Missionaries  and  Troops  Arrive  at  Port  Orford -Colonel  Casey's  Expedition  -Dis- 
covery of  the  Beach    Placers— Organization  of  the   County. 

It  lias  often  been  said  and  wi'itten  that  certain  Spanish  explorers  of  the  last  cen- 
tury visited  and  examined  the  coast  of  Curry  county,  and  sailing  northward,  entered 
the  mouth  of  the  Umpqua  river  and  refitted  there.  But  this  report  cannot  be  traced 
to  any  source  other  than  that  Don  Martin  D'Aguilar,  sailing  along  this  coast  in  1795, 
or  thereabouts,  discovered  and  named  Cape  Blanco,  since  known  by  that  name  and  the 
name  also  of  Cape  Orford.  The  latter  name  was  applied  by  a  very  celebrated  English 
navigator,  who  visited  these  shores  in  1792.  His  name  was  Captain  George  Van- 
couver, to  whom  the  world  is  indebted  for  the  first  systematic  and  scientific  examination 
of  the  northwest  coast  of  America.  Here  follows  the  story  of  his  voyage  along  the 
coast  of  Curry  county,  told  in  his  own  words : 

"On  Tuesday,  April  24,  1792,  the  northern  point  of  St.  George's  bay  [in  Del 
Norte  county,  California],  bore  east  two  leagues  distant.  With  a  favorable  breeze  at 
southwest,  our  survey  was  continued  northward  along  the  shores,  which  are  composed 
of  high,  steep  precipices  and  deep  chasms,  falling  very  abruptly  into  the  sea.  The 
inland  mountains  are  much  elevated,  and  appeared  to  be  tolerably  well  clothed  with  a 
variety  of  trees,  the  generality  of  which  were  of  the  pine  tribe ;  yet  amongst  them  were 
some  spreading  trees  of  considerable  magnitude.  The  shores  were  still  bounded  by 
innumerable  rocky  islets,  and  in  the  course  of  the  forenoon  we  passed  a  cluster  of  them, 
with  several  sunken  rocks  in  their  vicinity,  lying  a  league  from  the  land,  which  falls 
back  a  little  to  the  eastward  and  forms  a  shallow  bay,  into  which  we  steered.  As  the 
breeze  died  away,  and  a  strong  current  set  us  fost  ashore,  we  came  to  anchor  in  thirty- 
nine  fathoms  water,  bottom  black  sand  and  mud.  The  latitude  of  this  station  was 
found  to  be  42  degrees  o8  minutes;  longitude,  east,  235  degrees,  44  niinutes  [124 
degrees  16  minutes].  In  this  situation  the  outer  rock  of  the  cluster  mentioned  bore 
by  compass  south,  sixteen  east,  six  miles  distant;  a  remarkable  black  rock,  the  nearest 
shore,  was  north,  04  east,  distant  three  and  a  half  miles  ;  a  very  high,  black  dift', 
resembling  the  gable  end  of  a  house,  north,  one  point  ea.st;  the  northernmost  extremity 
of  the  mainland,  which  is  formed  by  low  land  projecting  from  the  high,  rocky  coast  a 
considerable  way  into  the  sea,  and  terminating  in  a  low,  wedge-like,  perpendicular 
cliff",  north,  27  west.  This  I  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Cape  Orford,  in  honor  uf 
my  much-respected  friend,  the  noble  earl  (George)  of  that  title.  Off  it  lie  several 
rockv  islets,  the  outwardinost  of  which  bore  north,  38  west. 


470  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

"  Soon  after  we  had  anchored,  a  canoe  was  seen  pulhng  toward  the  ship  ;  and  with 
the  greatest  confidence,  and  without  any  soi't  of  invitation,  came  immediately  alongside. 
During  the  afternoon  two  others  visited  the  Discovery,  and  some  repaired  to  the  Chat- 
ham [a  tender],  from  diiferent  parts  of  the  coast  in  sight ;  by  which  it  ajjpears  the 
inhabitants  may  have  their  residence  in  the  small  nooks  that  are  protected  from  the 
westerly  swell  by  the  rocky  islets.  A  j^leasing  and  courteous  deportment  distinguished 
these  people.  Their  countenances  indicated  nothing  ferocious  ;  their  features  partook 
rather  of  the  general  European  character  ;  their  color  a  light  olive ;  and  besides  being 
protected  in  the  fashion  of  the  South  Sea  islanders,  their  skin  had  many  other  marks, 
ap23arently  from  injuries  received  in  their  excursions  through  the  forests,  possibly  with 
little  or  no  clothing  that  would  protect  them  ;  though  some  of  us  were  of  opinion  that 
these  marks  were  purely  ornamental.  Their  stature  was  under  the  middle  size ;  none 
that  we  saw  exceeded  five  feet  six  inches  in  height.  They  were  tolerably  well  limbed, 
though  slender  in  their  persons,  and  seemed  to  prefer  the  comforts  of  cleanliness  to 
the  painting  of  their  bodies  ;  in  their  ears  and  noses  they  had  small  ornaments  of  bone; 
their  hair,  which  was  long  and  black,  was  tied  in  a  club  behind.  They  were  dressed 
in  garments  made  principally  of  the  skins  of  otter,  bear,  deer  and  fox.  Their  canoes 
were  wrought  out  of  a  single  tree,  were  of  the  shape  of  a  butcher's  tray,  and  seemed 
unfit  for  use  in  sea-voyages.  They  were  scrupulously  honest,  and  did  not  entertain  the 
least  idea  of  receiving  presents.  We  remained  in  this  situation  until  near  midnight, 
when  a  light  breeze  springing  up,  we  weighed ;  and  at  daylight  we  directed  our  course 
round  the  group  of  rocks  lying  off  Cape  Orford,  comprehending  four  detached  rocky 
islets,  with  several  dangerous  sunken  rocks  near  them,  on  which  the  sea  broke  with 
violence.  We  passed  close  lo  the  breakers,  in  soundings  of  forty-five  fathoms,  black, 
sandy  bottom.  Cape  Orford,  which  is  situated  in  latitude  42  degrees  52  minutes,  lon- 
gitude 235  degrees  35  minutes,  at  the  extremity  of  a  low  projecting  tract  of  land,  forms 
a  very  conspicuous  point,  and  bears  the  same  appearance  whether  it  is  approached 
from  north  or  south.  It  is  covered  with  wood  as  low  down  as  the  surf  will  permit  it 
to  grow.  Some  of  us  were  of  opinion  that  this  was  the  Cape  Blanco,  of  Martin 
D'Aguilar ;  its  latitude,  however,  diftered  greatly  from  that  in  which  Cape  Blanco  is 
placed  by  that  navigator  ;  and  its  dark  appearance  did  not  seem  to  entitle  it  to  the 
name  Blanco.  North  of  this  cape  the  coast  takes  the  direction  north,  13  east ;  and 
south  of  it  towards  Point  St.  George,  south,  18  east. 

"  The  rocky  islets  which  we  had  seen  in  such  numbers  along  the  shore,  ceased  to 
exist  about  a  league  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Orford ;  and  in  their  stead,  an  almost 
straight,  sandy  beach  presented  itself,  with  land  behind  gradually  rising  to  a  moderate 
height  near  the  coast,  but  considerably  elevated  in  the  interior,  and  much  diversified  by 
its  eminences  and  productions,  being  generally  well  wooded,  though  frequenth'  inter- 
rujjted  with  intervals  of  clear  spots,  which  gave  it  some  resemblance  to  a  country  in  an 
advanced  state  of  cultivation." 

In  the  year  1851,  a  great  impetus  was  given  to  business  on  the  northwest  coast  by 
the  discovery  of  the  mines  of  Northern  California  and  Southern  Oregon.  A  great 
emigration  set  in  toward  those  famous  placers,  and  traffic  of  all  sorts  assumed  an  extrav- 
agant liveliness.  Access  to  the  mines  was  so  difficult  that  from  the  first  the  invention 
and  enterprise  of  many  persons  were  stimulated  to  overcome  the  costly,  difficult  and  slow 


CURRY  COUNTY.  471 

land  transit.  Ouly  by  means  of  narrow  mountain  trails  from  the  Willamette  on  the 
one  hand,  and  the  Sacramento  on  the  other,  could  the  valleys  of  Rogue  and  Klamath 
rivers  be  reached.  The  universal  mode  of  locomotion  was  on  horse  or  mule  back,  or 
in  default  of  animals,  by  foot,  and  all  merchandize  was  packed  on  animals  over  the 
steep  and  dangerous  trails  for  hundreds  of  miles,  and  at  fabulous  cost.  Enterprising 
speculators,  realizing  that  there  was  more  money  in  providing  for  the  miners  than  in 
being  miners,  set  about  exploring  the  northern  sea-coast  for  suitable  harbors  near  to 
the  diggings,  from  whence  merchandise  could  be  sent  by  much  shorter  routes  to  the 
camps,  and  trade  being  diverted  to  the  new  sea-ports  would  serve  to  build  them  up  and 
so  put  money  in  the  purses  of  the  far-seeing  individuals  who  owned  the  town.  Crescent 
City,  Trinidad,  Scottsburg,  Gardiner,  Umpqua  City,  and  sundry  other  sea-ports  of 
greater  or  less  prominence  sprang  up,  were  surveyed  and  communication  was  established 
with  the  interior.  Their  fates  have  been  various ;  some  have  passed  from  existence 
entirely,  and  in  no  case  have  they  arisen  to  the  importance  once  prugiiostieated  by  their 
enthusiastic  founders. 

Port  Orford  had  its  birth  under  similar  circumstances,  in  1851.  The  founder  was 
Captain  William  Tichenor,  still  a  resident  of  the  place,  who  has  partaken  of  its  fortunes 
for  thirty-three  years,  and  still  has  the  strongest  belief  in  its  future  importance.  Cap- 
tain Tichenor  was  one  of  the  earliest  to  navigate  the  waters  of  this  coast  in  a  steamship. 
Coming  very  early  to  California,  as  a  sea-captain  he  held  important  positions  in  com- 
mand of  vessels,  and  ultimately  in  1851,  made  cruises  from  San  Francisco  to  the 
Columbia  in  the  steamer  Sea  Gull,  and  became  acquainted  with  the  coast  between  those 
ports,  and  its  various  harbors,  which,  as  every  one  knows,  are  poor,  and  few  in  number. 
Becoming  early  impressed  with  the  belief  that  Port  Orford  was  the  best  haven  of  all 
of  them,  and  thinking  that  it  offered  great  advantages  also  in  being  nearer  the  mines 
to  which  he  doubted  not  an  easy  and  practicable  route  might  be  found,  Ca^^tain  Tichenor 
began  to  interest  other  people  in  his  plan,  and  soon  formed  a  colony  consisting  of  nine 
men,  whom  he  enlisted  at  Portland,  Oregon,  and  set  ashore  from  the  Sea  Gull  when 
that  vessel  reached  Port  Orford  on  her  down  trip  to  San  Francisco.  The  men,  with 
fire-arms,  ammunition,  a  small  five-pound  cannon,  provisions,  tools  and  other  necessary 
tilings  were  landed  on  the  ninth  of  June,  1851,  and  the  steamer  proceeded  on  her  way. 
The  men's  names  were — W.  H.  Kirkpatrick,  J.  H.  Egan,  Joseph  Hussey,  Cyrus  Hed- 
den,  McCune,  Rideout,  R.  E.  Summers,  called  Jake ;  P.  D.  Palmer  and  Slatei-. 

According  to  the  narrative  of  Kirkpatrick,  their  leader,  this  is  what  befell  the  lit- 
tle band  : 

On  landing  they  found  the  Indian  dwellers  along  the  coa.st  aj)parciitly  friendly. 
They  seemed  to  wish  to  trade.  But  when  the  steamer  departed,  difficulties  ai)peareil. 
The  Indians  became  saucy,  and  finally,  taking  offense  at  something,  witlnlrew  in  a  pet. 
The  whites,  now  thoroughly  alarmed,  took  a  position  on  Battle  Rock,  an  isolated  rock 
perhaps  100  yards  from  the  main  land,  and  only  accessible  therefrom  at  low  tide,  being 
surrounded  with  water  at  other  times.  Here  they  brought  their  five-pounder  and  pi-i'- 
pared  to  make  resistance  if  the  enemy  approached  in  a  hostile  manner.  They  luui  not 
long  to  wait.  The  next  morning  the  Indians  returned,  some  forty  in  all,  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows.  They  built  fires  and  performed  what  was  supposed  to  have  been  a 
war  dance.     More  Indians  came,  swelling  the  number  to  sixty  ;  ami  these,  uniteil,  came 


472  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

upon  the  island,  disregarding  the  colonists'  threatening  to  shoot.  The  latter  withdrew 
to  the  highest  part  of  the  island,  and  were  followed  by  the  larger  part  of  the  savages, 
headed  by  a  chief,  who  seized  a  musket  from  the  hands  of  a  white  man,  but  was  clubbed 
and  driven  away.  The  Indians  began  discharging  arrows  at  the  whites,  and  Kirk- 
patrick,  seizing  a  fire-brand,  fired  the  little  cannon  with  considerable  effect.  "  This 
threw  them  into  confusion,  which  we  followed  up  by  a  volley  from  our  small  arms. 
Three  of  them  got  into  cam])  and  were  knocked  down  by  gun  butts.  After  fifteen 
minutes'  fighting  the  Indians  broke  and  fled,  leaving  thirteen  of  their  number  dead 
upon  the  island.  They  fled  to  the  hills  and  rocks  and  shot  arrows  at  us  for  some  time. 
I  afterward  learned  from  an  Indian  at  the  mouth  of  the  Umpqua  that  there  were 
twenty  killed  and  fifteen  wounded.  Four  of  our  men  were  wounded.  The  Indians 
attacked  us  again  in  the  afternoon,  but  without  effect.  Soon  after  a  chief  came  upon 
the  beach,  and  throwing  down  his  arms,  made  signs  that  he  wanted  to  come  into  camp 
We  let  him  do  so,  Avhen  by  signs  he  sought  permission  to  take  away  the  dead.  Tliis 
we  let  him  do,  and  told  him  by  signs  that  we  would  go  away  in  fourteen  days.  When 
they  had  taken  their  dead  they  fired  a  few  arrows  at  us  and  retired.  We  were 
troubled  no  more  by  them  until  the  fifteenth  day,  when  they  attacked  us  again. 
There  were  many  more  in  this  fight  than  the  other,  at  least  fifteen  to  one  of  us.  Their 
chief  came  up  and  urged  them  in  tones  that  could  be  heard-  at  least  half  a  mile,  but 
could  not  prevail  on  them  to  make  a  rush  at  us.  They  shot  their  arrows  at  us  from  a 
distance  of  300  yards  at  least,  but  no  one  was  hurt,  though  several  arrows  fell  in  camp. 
We  were  in  a  critical  condition.  Our  ammunition  was  about  done — only  eight  or  nine 
rounds  being  left — and  we  were  surrounded  by  at  least  150  Indians.  The  only  alter- 
native left  us  was  to  take  to  the  woods  and  make  our  way  to  the  white  settlements. 
Here  fortune  favored  us ;  the  Indians  withdrew,  went  down  to  the  mouth  of  a  small 
creek  and  kindled  fires.  Some  stayed  to  watch  us,  but  we  went  to  work  as  if  to 
strengthen  our  breastwork,  and  they,  too,  departed.  Having  now  an  opportunity,  we 
escaped  to  the  woods,  taking  only  our  small  arms,  and  leaving  the  rest  of  our  property 
in  camp.  We  traveled  through  the  woods  for  about  five  miles,  and  then  went  upon  the 
beach.  We  had  gone  thereupon  but  a  short  distance  when  we  met  a  party  of  thirty, 
all  armed  with  bows  and  arrows  and  knives.  We  rushed  toward  them  to  give  them 
fight  in  open  ground,  but  they  broke  for  the  timber.  Continuing  a  few  miles  further, 
we  crossed  a  large  stream  of  water.  Here  we  took  to  the  woods,  traveling  therein  two 
days  and  nights,  and  then  went  out  upon  the  coast.  When  we  reached  it  we  found  a 
trail  where  a  great  many  Indians  hail  traveled  up  the  coast.  This  we  followed  for  about 
five  miles  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek  ;  here  the  trail  turned  back  again.  We  trav- 
eled on  the  beach  for  about  fifteen  miles  when  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Rogue  river 
[Coquille  probably].  Here  we  found  two  large  villages  of  Indians  who  appeared  to 
number  200,  and  prepared  to  fight.  They  kindled  a  fire  on  the  top  of  the  highest 
bluff"  near  by.  We  had  only  the  river  between  us,  and  had  to  take  to  the  woods  again. 
We  travelled  up  the  river  about  eight  miles  and  crossed  on  a  raft  of  logs.  We  kept 
two  days  in  the  woods  and  then  came  on  the  beach  and  spent  four  days,  living  on  sal- 
mon berries.  On  the  fourth  day  we  procured  some  mussels,  which  revived  us.  We 
lived  on  them  until  we  reached  the  Cowans  (Coos)  river ;  here  we  got  among  friendly 
Indians  and  procured  something  to  eat.     But  we  had  to  give  them  the  shirts  off"  our 


^%  'ot^ 


$ 


^ 


>  J.1-^ 


Capt.Wm.Tichenor. 


CUKRY  COUNTY.  473 

backs  to  get  them  to  ferry  us  over  the  river.  When  we  crossed  the  stream,  thinking  it 
was  the  Umpqua,  we  continued  up  it  ten  miles,  when  we  found  our  error.  We  then 
struck  across  the  sand  hills,  waded  a  swamp  and  got  to  the  coast.  Next  day  we  made 
the  mouth  of  the  Umj^qua — it  being  the  eighth  day  from  camp — where  we  were 
warmly  greeted  and  entertained  by  the  settlers  at  Umpcpia  City  and  Gardiner." 

Captain  Tichenor  returned,  it  appears,  but  one  day  after  the  departure  of  the  nine 
men,  and  was  surprised  and  shocked  to  behold  only  such  evidences  of  bloodshed  and 
violence  as  left  no  doubt  but  that  the  unfortunate  colonists  had  all  been  murdered  by 
the  natives.  He  returned  to  San  Francisco  firm  in  the  belief  that  they  were  dead,  but 
nevertheless,  pi'oceeded  actively  to  colonize  the  place  witn  a  strong  force  of  men.  He 
had  no  trouble  to  procure  adventurers  who  were  willing  to  undertake  anything  that 
promised  excitement,  and  sixty-five  volunteers  presenting  themselves,  he  embarked  in 
the  Sea  Gull  with  those,  and  six  persons  who  had  more  or  less  pecuniary  interest  in 
the  venture,  as  well  as  several  "  agents,''  sj^eculators,  etc.  They  had  an  armament  of 
a  half-dozen  field  pieces,  six-pounders,  and  a  good  assortment  of  small  arms,  and  were 
capitally  provided  for  an  offensive  or  defensive  war  on  a  pretty  large  scale.  James 
Gamble  was  commander  of  the  colonists,  in  Captain  Tichenor's  absence,  for  the  latter 
did  not  cease  his  voyages  and  become  a  regular  inhabitant  of  his  new  town  until  about 
two  years  later.  Fort  Point  was  surrounded  by  pickets,  and  two  block  houses  were 
erected  of  heavy  logs,  whereby  the  defense  of  the  place  was  secured.  Some  of  the  vol- 
unteers proved  insubordinate  and  had  to  be  sent  back  to  San  Francisco,  but  beyond 
tliis  no  trouble  occurred  at  Port  Orford  in  the  subsequent  year  or  two. 

After  landing  the  men  and  stores,  the  ship  proceeded  on  her  voyage  to  Portland, 
and  there  Captain  Tichenor  secured  the  services  of  Colonel  T'Vault,  so  well  known  in 
the  Rogue  river  valley  in  subsequent  years.  The  Colonel  had  just  returned  from  guid- 
ing Phil  Kearney's  force  of  regulars  from  Vancouver  to  their  station  in  California, and 
being  familiar  with  the  Oregon  trail,  was  thought  a  suitable  iudividual  for  the  work 
that  Captain  Tichenor  had  for  him,  which  was  to  explore  the  country  lying  between 
the  coast  and  that  famous  trail,  and  ascertain  and  locate  a  practicable  route  by  which 
the  people  of  Port  Orford  could  communicate  with  the  interior.  He  was  accordingly 
engaged  and  brought  to  the  port  on  the  next  voyage,  and  his  subsequent  adventures 
form  a  chapter  not  less  thrilling  than  the  siege  of  Battle  Rock.  Horses  were  sliipped 
tor  use  in  the  exploring  expedition,  and  the  new  colony  being  well  uuder  way,  T'Vault 
and  his  men  started  eastwartl  about  August  20.  The  sufferings  and  adventures  of  the 
little  party  were  extraordinary,  considering  the  short  distance  they  penetrated  and  the 
amount  they  effected.  They  were  excellently  armed,  each  of  the  ten  explorers  liaving 
a  rifle,  and  there  were  four  pistols  and  sundry  knives  in  the  crowd.  Nevertheless,  tiiey 
allowed  themselves  to  go  hungry  iu  a  land  where  game  and  fish  of  many  sorts  abound 
t(i  this  day.  They  arrived  at  a  point  some  twenty-five  miles  due  east  of  Port  Orford, 
and  being  bewildered  and  desperate,  abandoned  their  horses  and  started  on  foot  toward 
the  north,  living  on  berries  and  roots.  Their  object  was  to  reach  the  settlements  on 
the  Umpqua.  Reaching  the  south  fork  of  the  Coquille,  they  followeil  that  stream  to 
its  confluence  with  the  middle  fork,  near  the  present  town  of  Norway,  and  here  en- 
gaged an  Indian  to  take  them  down  the  river  in  his  canoe.  Arriving  within  two  miles 
of  the  mouth  of  the  river  the  exi)lorers  proposed  to  land  at  a  large  Indian  village  to 


474  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

procure  food.  Some  objected,  fearful  of  the  consequences,  but  the  boat  drifting  into 
shallow  water  near  the  shore,  the  natives  waded  out,  seized  it  and  dragged  it  to  the  bank 
and  entering  the  canoe,  began  an  attack  on  the  whites.  This  is  best  told  in  Colonel 
T'Vault's  own  words  :  "  The  Indians  boarded  the  canoes  and  seized  the  arms,  and  the 
whites  simultaneously  made  a  rush  for  the  shore.  Brush  fired  a  shot — the  only  one 
heard — and  in  less  than  fifteen  seconds,  the  whites  were  completely  disarmed,  there 
being  at  least  three  Indians  to  one  white  man.  I  sprang  into  the  water  while  Brush, 
■who  was  held  by  the  Indians,  was  endeavoring  to  follow,  while  they  were  beating  him 
over  the  head  with  a  paddle.  I  saw  a  canoe  with  a  boy  in  it.  The  boy  helped  me 
in,  put  a  paddle  in  my  hand  and  pointed  down  the  river.  He  helped  Brush  also  in, 
and  then  immediately  jumped  overboard.  AVe  paddled  to  the  southern  bank,  and 
landing,  stripped  ourselves  of  our  clothing  and  crawled  into  the  swamp.  We  traveled 
through  bi'iery  chaparral  most  of  the  day  and  took  to  the  beach  at  night.  With  the 
help  of  Indians  we  reached  Port  Orford.  Mr.  Brush  had  several  inches  of  his  scalp 
torn  away.  The  names  of  our  companions  were  A.  S.  Dougherty,  Patrick  Murphy, 
Thomas  J.  Davenport,  L.  L.  Williams,  John  P.  Holland,  Jeremiah  Eyan,  Cyrus  Hid- 
den and  J.  P.  Pepper." 

Williams  and  Hidden  reached  the  shore,  lighting  as  they  went,  the  former  being- 
engaged  by  a  large  Indian  who  threw  him,  but  Williams'  knife  did  good  work,  and  the 
two  whites  ran  for  the  woods,  Williams  with  an  arrow  shot  into  his  body,  entering  his 
liver  and  emerging  at  the  opposite  groin.  Hidden  drew  out  the  shaft,  leaving  the  head 
and  a  three-inch  socket  in  the  wound.  The  two  made  their  way  along,  holding  their 
pursuers  at  bay  with  their  rifles,  and  eventually  escaping  them.  The  wounded  man 
soon  began  to  suffer  the  most  acute  pains  and  begged  to  be  allowed  to  lie  down  and  die  ; 
but  his  faithful  companion  stayed  by  hira,  bringing  water,  and  supplying  his  wants  as 
best  he  could.  Hidden,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  one  of  the  nine  who  left  Battle 
Rock,  and  being  somewhat  acquainted  with  the  country,  they  eventually  succeeded,  after 
eight  terrible  days  of  exertion  and  exposure,  in  reaching  the  Umpqua  river  and  there 
found  friends  and  assistance.  For  three  years  Williams  lay  helple.ss  from  his  wounds 
and  suffering  intensely,  while  Hidden,  with  almost  unparalleled  devotion,  nursed  him, 
labored  for  the  support  of  both,  and  eventually  brought  him  through  his  troubles. 
The  arrow  head  was  extracted  in  1854,  and  Williams,  as  is  well  known,  lived  a  useful, 
active  and  valuable  life  for  the  remainder  of  his  days.  Hidden  is  now  an  honored  and 
respected  merchant  of  Scottsburg. 

In  August,  1851,  Doctor  Anson  Dart,  superintendent  of  Indian  affaii'S  for  Ore- 
gon, and  Reverends  Spalding  and  Parrish,  two  missionaries,  friends  of  Dr.  Whitman, 
of  Waiilatpu,  came  to  Port  Orford  on  the  Sea  Gull,  in  order  to  investigate  the  Indian 
question  and  pacify  the  natives  if  possible.  On  the  same  steamer  came  a  detachment 
of  troops  of  Major  Hathaway's  command,  at  Fort  George  (Astoria),  under  Lieutenant 
Whymau.  A  little  later  in  the  year  Samuel  Culver,  Indian  agent,  arrived  and  took 
charge  of  Indian  affairs  at  and  near  Port  Orford,  Dart  and  the  two  missionaries  leav- 
ing on  his  arrival.  More  troops  having  been  found  desirable.  General  Hitchcock,  in 
command  of  the  de^aartment  of  the  Pacific,  ordered  Lieutenant-Colonel  Silas  Casey, 
with  a  force  of  regulars,  to  Port  Orford  to  investigate  the  condition  of  affairs  and  over- 
awe the  natives  by  a  show  of  force,  and  to  proceed  to  hostilities,  if  necessary. 


CURRY  COUNTY.  475 

Eeacliing  that  place  with  ninety  men,  Casey  detailed  a  portion  of  his  force  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  Coquille,  as  the  story  of  the  attack  on  T'Vault's  exploring  party  had  become 
known.  Lieutenant  Stoneman,  now  governor  of  California,  was  an  officer  of  the  force^ 
and  to  him  fell  the  duty  of  driving  the  Indians  from  their  principal  village.  This  he 
effected  by  the  fire  of  shells  from  a  howitzer  planted  above  the  village.  A  large  num- 
ber of  natives  were  killed  on  this  expedition  and  the  moral  effect  of  the  operations  was 
very  great.  In  the  same  year  the  troops  built  the  military  post  called  Fort  Orford, 
which  remained  occupied  until  the  removal  of  the  Indians  in  1856  rendered  it  value- 
less, and  it  was  abandoned. 

The  beach  mines  along  the  coast  of  Curry  county  were  discovered  in  18.53,  and 
began  immediately  to  be  worked.  Several  hundred  men  were  employed  there  in  the 
following  year,  and  the  golden  harvest  continued  for  many  years,  but  gradually  fell 
oft'.  The  miners  came  mostly  from  San  Francisco,  landing  at  Port  Orford  or  Crescent 
City,  and  business  found  its  outlet  by  the  same  route.  The  county  has  always  retained 
its  connection  with  the  California  metropolis,  and  seems  rather  a  colony  of  that  place 
than  a  portion  of  Oregon.  When  the  Indian  war  began,  the  mining  interests,  and  in 
fact  everything  in  the  way  of  business  was  prostrated  in  Curry  county,  every  inhabited 
])lace  outside  of  Port  Orford  being  devastated.  Since  then  the  county  has  maintained 
a  slight  but  healthy  rate  of  growth,  and  has  now  a  population  of  about  1,300,  who  are 
all  permanent  settlers,  whereas  the  mining  population  of  the  early  years,  while  their 
numbers  were  probably  greater,  were  only  a  floating  populace,  whose  influence  was  not 
so  valuable  as  that  of  a  fixed  community. 

Curry  county,  originally  a  part  of  Jackson  and  later  of  Coos,  was  sei  off  from  the 
latter  county  by  an  act  of  the  legislature  which  took  effect  on  December  18,  1855. 
This  bill  was  introduced  by  Captain  Ticheuor,  then  a  member  of  the  legislature  and 
in  whose  honor  it  was  i^roposed  to  name  the  new  county  Tichenor ;  but  the  captain 
modestly  objecting,  the  present  name  was  adopted  instead.  The  name  of  Orford  county 
had  been  previously  suggested.  The  boundaries  of  Curry  county  were  changed  some- 
what in  1872  by  legislative  enactment  amending  the  original  act,  and  at  present  they 
are  as  follows  :  Beginning  at  the  south  line  of  section  21,  township  30,  range  15,  west, 
the  line  proceeds  eastward  to  the  dividing  ridge  of  Horse  creek  and  Coquille  river ; 
thence  east  along  said  ridge  to  the  divide  which  forms  the  water-shed  to  the  ea.st  of  the 
tributaries  of  John  Mule  creek  ;  thence  south  to  the  parallel  of  forty-two  degrees  ; 
thence  west  to  the  Pacific  ocean;  thence  northward  along  the  shore  to  the  point  of 
beginning. 


CHAPTER   LIX. 

THE  PRINCIPAL  INHABITED  LOCALITIES. 

The  Northern  Boundary— Denmark— Floras  Flat— Sixes  River- Fort  Orford— Its  Harbor— Proposed  Breakwater 
and  Railway — Saw  Mill— EUensburg— First  Arrivals— Affairs  in  early  years— The  Massacre  of  1856— The 
Geisel  Tragedy— The  Whites  besieged— Battle  at  Skookum  House— EUensburg  at  Present— Hume's  Cannery- 
Pistol  River— Chetco—Winchuck. 

New  river  is  generally  regarded  as  forming  the  dividing  line  between  Curry  and 
Coos  counties.  It  is  a  small  stream,  some  forty  yards  wide  in  the  lower  part  of  its 
course,  but  spreading  out  at  its  mouth  to  several  times  that  breadth.  The  next  stream 
to  the  south  is  Floras  creek,  a  name  of  doubtful  etymology.  This  water-course  drains 
quite  an  extensive  region  of  rich  farms,  whose  residents  form  the  most  important  agri- 
cultural community  in  the  northern  part  of  the  county.  Denmark  post  office  and 
store  kept  by  N.  C.  Lorentzen,  is  the  center  or  rallying  point  for  the  people  of  Floras 
creek,  and  although  no  town  exists  at  present  no  doubt  the  material  growth  of  the  com- 
munity will  soon  build  one  up.  There  are  more  signs  of  enterprise  and  well-directed 
energy  about  Denmark  than  in  any  other  small  locality  in  the  whole  region.  It  is  a 
striking  example  of  the  extraordinary  vigor  and  foresight  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
place  that  a  newspaper  has  already  been  established.  This  is  the  Curry  County  Reconler, 
a  weekly  paper,  edited  and  published  by  J.  H.  Upton,  an  experienced  journalist.  The 
Recorder  deals  mainly  with  local  affairs,  and  is  apparently  well  supported.  The 
publication  office  is  in  Mr.  Upton's  residence,  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  post  office. 

The  Floras  creek  flats,  so-called,  which  constitute  the  greater  part  of  the  agricult- 
ural land  of  this  rich  section,  form  a  triangular  tract  of  land,  extending  along  the  ocean 
beach  for  twelve  miles,  and  having  a  width  of  about  half  that.  The  stream  itself  is 
small  in  summer,  scarcely  ankle  deep,  but  wide  and  swift  in  winter.  In  its  vicinity 
are  the  thriving  dairies  of  Thrift,  Long,  Langlois,  and  others,  some  of  whom  milk  a 
hundred  cows,  and  make  tons  of  excellent  butter.  The  facilities  for  dairying  in  this 
vicinity  are  very  great.  Floras  lake,  a  body  of  clear  fresh  water,  only  300  yards  or  so 
from  the  ocean  verge,  is  a  peculiarity  of  this  region  and  is  one  of  the  thi'ee  small  lakes 
of  the  county.     It  is  stocked  with  trout. 

Sixes  river  enters  the  ocean  some  six  miles  south  of  Floras  creek ;  its  course  is 
nearly  w'est  from  its  head  in  the  mountains  where  rise  the  south  fork  of  the  Coquille 
river  and  Russell  and  Catching  creeks.  Sixes  is  the  transformed  Indian  word  Shix. 
The  stream  does  not  flow  through  a  great  area  of  tillable  land,  but  has  extensive 
resources  in  lumber,  placer  and  quartz  mines,  salmon  fisheries,  and  stock  grazing  lands 
of  great  importance.  None  of  these  sources  of  wealth  have  yet  been  fully  utilized  or 
even  examined;  but  the  influx  of  population  expected  in  the  immediate  future  may 
remedy  the  neglect.     About  the  head  of  Sixes  river  several  quartz  claims  have  been 


fl 


J 


CURRY   COUNTY.  477 

prosjiected,  and  along  the  stream  some  gold-bearing  gravel  has  been  washed.  Here,  and 
on  Elk  creek  also,  immense  quantities  of  the  finest  cedar,  tir,  spruce,  hemlock,  and 
laurel  (mis-called  myrtle),  are  standing,  sufficient  to  feed  the  mill  saws  for  j'ears.  On 
the  latter  stream  is  the  Elk  creek  mill,  owned  by  Joseph  Nay,  which  saws  10,000  feet 
of  white  cedar  daily,  the  lumber  being  hauled  to  Port  Orford,  over  a  wagon  road,  and 
then  loaded  upon  vessels  and  sent  to  San  Francisco.  Mr.  Nay  owns  1,000  acres  of 
land,  mostly  covered  with  a  fine  growth  of  timber.  The  mill  is  four  miles  inland,  and 
the  logs  are  rafted  to  it  by  the  current  of  Elk  creek.  The  mill  and  machinery  cost 
$15,000,  and  commenced  sawing  in  July,  1883.  Its  product  of  white  cedar  brings 
usually  thirty-five,  twenty-five,  and  sixteen  dollars  per  thousand  feet,  according  to 
class.     It  costs  five  dollars  per  thousand  to  transport  to  the  shipping  point. 

Port  Oi'ford  is  situated  in  township  33,  range  15,  west,  in  forty-two  degrees,  forty- 
four  minutes,  north  latitude,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  degrees,  thirty  minutes 
longitude  west  of  Greenwich.  The  name  refers  indifferently  to  the  harbor  and  to 
the  small,  but  important  town  which  has  grown  up  on  the  shore.  The  name  Orford 
was  bestowed  on  Cape  Blanco,  by  Vancouver,  whence  it  was  transferred  to  this  shel- 
tered haven.  Sometimes  the  bay  has  been  called  Ewing  harbor,  and  is  so  marked  on 
certain  maps.  The  haven,  writes  Cajjtain  Tichenor,  is  a  deep  and  capacious  roadstead, 
abundantly  sheltered  from  all  winds  except  the  southwesters,  having  in  the  northwest 
a  headland  150  feet  high,  which  is  perpendicular  on  the  side  toward  the  anchorage. 
The  bottom  is  reckoned  first-class  holding  ground  for  anchorS;  and  there  is  a  minimum 
depth  of  from  seven  to  ten  fathoms  of  water  in  the  channel.  The  engineers  of  the 
governmental  coast  survey  have  pronounced  this  the  finest  and  most  accessible  summer 
harbor  on  the  coast  between  San  Francisco  and  Puget  Sound,  and  a  movement  has 
been  set  on  foot  to  construct  at  Port  Orford  a  stone  breakwater,  which  is  much  needed 
for  comjjlete  immunity  against  the  storms  of  winter.  This  would  necessarily  be  a  gov- 
ernment work,  requiring  money  appropriations  and  official  supervision.  With  the  com- 
pletion of  the  work  the  port  would  undoubtedly  become  of  vast  importance,  second  to 
few  other  towns  on  the  coast.  In  addition  to  this  it  has  been  proposed,  and  urged  to 
some  extent,  to  connect  Port  Orford  by  rail  with  some  point  on  the  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia railroad,  preferably  Roseburg.  Two  easy  and  practicable  routes  are  said  to  exist, 
the  one  leading  north  to  the  Coquille  river,  thence  up  that  stream  to  the  junction  of 
the  south  and  middle  fork,  and  then  by  way  of  Camas  valley  to  the  south  Unqxpia  ; 
the  other  from  the  coast  up  Sixes  river  and  by  way  of  Salmon  creek  to  the  south  fork. 
A  pass  only  1,200  feet  above  sea-level  has  been  found  on  the  latter  route  and  will 
doubtless  be  utilized.  The  road  Avould  pass  through  a  finely-timbered  and  well-watered 
country,  abounding  in  minerals,  such  as  coal,  which  is  found  in  quantity,  iron,  chrome 
and  copper  ores,  and  with  immense  bodies  of  yellow  pine  and  white  cedar.  The  routes 
have  been  "surveyed  and  pronounced  practicable. 

Port  Orford  is  the  most  important  shipping  point  for  lumber,  tlie  supjily  being 
furnished  by  two  of  the  three  sawmills  in  Curry  county,  namely,  the  Elk  creek  mill 
of  Joseph  Nay,  and  the  Hubbard  creek  mill,  located  a  mile  south  of  town.  The  hit- 
ter's capacity'is  17,000  feet  per  day.  Its  beginning  was  a  small  concern  built  in  1874, 
by  E.  J.  (iould  and  Company.  In  1870  the  mill  was  enlarged  by  the  Port  Orford 
Cedar  Company,  N.  C.  Lorentzen,  manager,  and  a  wharf  was  built,  500  feet  long,  reach- 


478  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

ing  to  a  rock  that  extends  160  feet  further.  The  total  cost  of  the  mill,  wharf,  timber 
and  dam  was  |62,000.  Some  ten  or  fifteen  million  feet  of  first-class  timber  yet  re- 
mains on  Hubbard  creek,  after  the  immense  quantity  cut  by  the  mill. 

On  the  discovery  of  gold  along  the  ocean  beach,  Port  Orford  became  a  shipping 
point  for  the  miners  who  flocked  in,  and  achieved  a  high  degree  of  prosperity.  It  had 
hotels,  stores,  billiard  jmrlors,  and  all  the  concomitants  of  a  mining  camp,  and  its  mer- 
chants— of  Avhom  the  firm  of  Tichenor  and  Company  were  the  most  influential — did  a 
large  wholesale  and  retail  business.  There  were  at  one  time,  says  Mr.  Riley,  a  2^10- 
neer  of  EUensburg,  who  once  lived  at  Port  Orford,  six  hotels,  nine  stores,  and  a  cor- 
responding number  of  saloons  and  dwellings.  These  were  but  temporary,  and  on  the 
decay  of  mining  they  mostly  went  out  of  existence.  In  1853  H.  Tichenor  built  a 
saw  mill  two  miles  north  of  town  and  cut  a  great  deal  of  lumber,  but  shut  down  after  a 
few  years.  A  serious  fire  occurred  about  twenty  years  since,  which  swept  away  nearly 
the  whole  town,  since  which  it  has  never  regained  its  former  size. 

EUensburg,  the  county  seat  and  place  of  the  most  importance  in  the  county,  is 
located  on  the  south  side  of  the  embouchure  of  Eogue  river.  When  the  beach  mines 
were  first  worked  that  point  became  a  center  of  population,  and  on  or  near  Gold  Beach, 
as  the  locality  was  called,  there  sprung  up  the  villages  or  camps  known  as  Hogtown, 
Elizabethtown  and  EUensburg,  whereof  the  latter  has  outlived  her  rivals.  Captain 
Tichenor's  daughter  was  the  original  of  this  pretty  name.  There  were  few  families 
in  the  early  years,  the  miners  making  up  the  great  bulk  of  the  population  ;  but 
later  on  jjermanent  settlers  began  to  arrive  and  women  and  children  were  more  fre- 
quently met  with.  The  Waddell  family  is  thought  to  have  come  first,  followed  by 
the  Geisels,  Thorps,  Holtons  (now  of  Josephine  county)  and  Rileys,  the  latter  being 
still  residents  of  EUensburg. 

The  pioneer  merchants  of  EUensburg  were  the  two  firms  of  Augustus  and  John 
Upton,  and  Huntley  and  O'Brien.  They  brought  their  goods  at  first  from  Crescent 
City,  in  the  "Gold  Beach,"  a  small  sloop  which  made  frequent  trips  along  the  coast 
and  furnished  means  of  communication  for  a  considerable  time.  Afterwards  the  firm 
of  Pratt  and  Blake  was  established,  and  owned  or  chartered  a  schooner,  the  Rambler, 
which  traded  with  San  Francisco.  F.  H.  Pratt,  now  of  EUensburg,  organized  and  con- 
ducted the  first  pack-train  between  Crescent  City  and  Gold  Beach.  In  the  subsequent 
Indian  troubles  the  natives  destroyed  his  establishment,  burning  the  store  and  carrying 
off  the  most  of  the  goods.  The  same  fate  befell  the  remainder  of  the  little  settlement, 
and  it  is  reckoned  that  forty-one  white  persons  lost  their  lives  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river  during  those  perilous  times.  The  names  of  twenty-six  victims  are  given  in 
another  place — they  who  perished  in  the  massacre  of  the  twenty-second  of  February, 
1856.  To  these  we  must  add  the  names  of  E.  Huntley  and  John  Clevenger,  who  were 
betrayed  by  Enos  and  murdered  near  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  river,  a  few  days  before, 
the  greater  calamity.  The  most  celebrated  incident  in  the  tragedy  was  the  murder  of 
John  Geisel.  The  Geisels,  father,  mother  and  five  children  dwelt  about  five  miles 
north  of  the  river.  The  Indians  entered  the  house  while  the  inmates  were  in  bed  and 
instantly  attacked  them.  Mrs.  Geisel,  in  endeavoring  to  defend  herself,  was  cut  with 
a  knife,  and  her  husband  was  stabbed  to  death  instantly.  The  three  boys,  aged  nine, 
seven,  and  five  years,  respectively,  Avere  also  butchered,  and  the  female  members  of  the 


CUERY  COUNTY.  479 

family,  comprising  Mrs.  Geisel,  her  daughter  Mary,  aged  thirteen,  and  an  infant,  were 
made  prisoners  and  compelled  to  remain  with  the  savages  for  eighteen  days,  when  they 
were  surrendered  to  the  whites.  Negotiations  were  entered  into  for  their  recovery 
when  it  was  discovered  that  they  were  living  and  were  captives,  and  after  considerable 
diplomacy,  they  were  exchanged  for  a  squaw  held  by  the  whites,  with  some  blankets 
and  money  in  addition.  Mrs.  Geisel,  now  Mrs.  Edson,  is  a  resident  of  Ellensburg^ 
and  her  infant  companion  in  captivity  has  grown  to  womanhood  and  also  resides  in 
that  town.     The  eldest  daughter,  Mary,  now  Mrs.  H.  G.  Blake,  lives  in  Chetco. 

The  whites  fortified  themselves  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  opposite  Sebastopol, 
as  Ellensburg  was  then  called,  and  all  the  surrounding  settlers  drew  inlo  the  protection 
of  the  fort.  The  structure  was  of  logs,  and  stood  in  a  well  selected  site,  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  river,  and  within  gunshot  of  the  ocean.  Around  it  a  ditch  was  dug, 
which  was  filled  with  water  and  crossed  by  a  draw-bridge.  It  proved  an  efficient  pro- 
tection, and  when,  after  a  few  days,  the  natives  assaulted  it,  they  were  able  to  make  no 
impression,  and  soon  withdrew.  Shortly  after,  a  jiarty  of  fifteen  white  men  from  the 
fort  were  ambushed  by  the  Indians  while  endeavoring  to  get  a  lot  of  potatoes  that  had 
been  cached  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Six  of  the  whites  were  killed,  the  names  of 
four  of  them  being  Oliver,  Eichardson,  Schmoldt,  and  Bullem.  Four  more  whites 
were  soon  after  drowned  in  the  breakers  opposite  the  fort,  while  attempting  to  beach  a 
boat  loaded  with  supplies  from  Port  Orford.  When  the  regular  troops  arrived,  the 
settlers  mostly  took  up  arms  to  clear  the  country  of  Indians,  while  the  non-combatants, 
the  women  and  children,  went  to  Port  Orford  for  safety.  The  savages  withdrew  to  a 
fortification  of  their  own,  fifteen  miles  up  the  river,  and  on  the  south  bank.  This 
fort,  called  "  Skookum  house,"  was  perhaps  the  most  carefully  prepared  defensive 
work  ever  undertaken  by  the  Indians,  and  probably  owed  its  design  to  the  notorious 
Euos,  the  moving  sj^irit  among  the  Indians,  and  the  person  to  whom  the  sanguinary 
acts  of  the  time  were  directly  due.  This  fortress  was  taken  by  a  combined  force  of 
regulars  and  volunteers,  the  former  under  Captains  Ord  and  Augur,  the  civilians  com- 
manded by  E.  H.  Meservey  and  Ralph  Bledsoe.  Surprising  the  savages  by  the  unex- 
pectedness of  their  attack,  the  volunteers  drove  them  from  "Skookum  house,"  and  the 
fleeing  Indians  became  targets  for  the  regulars,  who  were  posted  in  the  bushes  on  the 
river.  Many  were  shot  and  drowned,  and  altogether  the  natives  sustained  quite  a 
defeat.     This  action  occurred  a  few  days  after  Smitli's  fight  at  Big  Meadows. 

On  the  conclusion  of  hostilities,  all  the  Indians  in  Southern  Oregon,  save  a  few 
scattering  individuals,  were  removed  to  the  Coast  reservation.  The  few  who  were  left 
were  near  Pistol  river,  and  held  out  against  the  whites  and  committed  various  acts  of 
violence.  They  besieged  Robert  Smith's  cabin,  on  Pistol  river,  but  were  kept  off"  by 
three  miners  inside.  A  company  of  miners  was  then  formed  to  hunt  these  savages, 
and  Lieutenant  Eyre,  of  the  regular  army,  with  a  detachment,  came  to  assist.  The 
Indians  attacked  and  captured  the  military  pack  train,  killed  one  man,  Haybachor,  by 
name,  hamstringed  the  mules,  and  escaped.  Two  of  them  were  finally  captured,  and 
being  taken  to  Ellensburg,  were  despatched  by  the  miuci's,  and  the  other  males  were 
killed,  it  is  said,  by  the  Smith  river  Indians,  in  considei-ation  of  a  ])rice  of  one  hun- 
dred dollars  set  upon  the  head  of  each.  This  was  jn-obably  in  1858.  Other  accounts 
are  to  the  effect  that  these  Indians,  instead  of  being  killed,  were  taken  to  tlie  roscrv;itii)n. 


480  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

The  present  asi^ect  of  Ellensburg  is  moderately  lively  and  flourishing.  There  is 
a  very  good  weekly  newspaper,  edited  and  published  by  Walter  Sutton,  a  journalist  of 
discrimination  and  judgment.  This  is  the  Curry  County  Post,  which  was  established 
at  Port  Orford,  in  May,  1880,  by  J.  H.  Upton  and  son,  but  being  purchased  by  the 
present  proprietor,  was  removed  to  Ellensburg  in  July,  1880.  On  the  following  six- 
teenth of  September,  the  first  number  printed  at  this  place  appeared,  and  since  that 
time  it  has  continued  to  be  published  regularly.  The  Post  is  an  indispensable  institu- 
tion in  the  county,  and  fills  an  important  position  in  the  public  estimation. 

The  Kogue  river  is  noted  for  the  quality  and  quantity  of  the  salmon  caught  in 
its  waters.  There  are  two  distinct  runs  of  these  fish,  called  the  spring  run  and  the 
fall  run,  the  first  taking  place  in  April,  May  and  June,  the  fall  run  occurring  mainly 
in  September  and  October.  The  latter  run  is  most  abundant,  but  the  fish  taken  in  the 
spring  run  are  the  best  in  quality.  A.  F.  Myers  established  a  fishery  at  Ellensburg, 
in  1857,  for  the  i^urpose  of  taking,  salting  and  barreling  salmon.  From  this  compar- 
atively small  beginning,  the  business  has  increased  until  there  are  now  ten  thousand 
cases  of  canned  salmon  shipped  yearly,  as  an  average  product.  This  business  is  the 
most  important  and  lucrative  in  the  whole  county,  and  is  conducted  at  a  single  cannery, 
which  is  owned  by  R.  D.  Hume.  The  necessary  buildings  are  built  over  the  water, 
resting  upon  piles,  and  contain  apparatus  for  cleaning,  cutting  up  and  packing  the  fish, 
as  well  as  for  the  manufacture  of  cans  and  cases.  Mr.  Hume  has,  with  rare  foresight, 
taken  great  pains  to  keep  up  the  quantity  of  living  salmon,  both  by  abstaining  from 
catching  too  many  and  also  by  establishing  a  hatchery  wherein  the  fertilized  salmon 
eggs  can  be  brought  to  maturity,  and  an  immense  number  of  small  fry  let  loose  to 
replace  those  annually  caught. 

Ellensburg  contains  a  court  house,  situated  at  the  lower  extremity  of  the  town  ; 
a  school  house  of  excellent  pretensions  ;  the  ofiice  and  drug  store  of  Dr. Von  Der  Green, 
the  only  physician  in  the  county  ;  Miss  Geisel's  millinery  establishment,  the  post  office, 
three  hotels,  cooper  shop,  blacksmith  shop,  shoe-shop,  store,  saloons,  oflices,  etc.  Gold 
Beach  lodge,  No.  70,  A.  F.  and  A.  M  ,  and  Rogue  River  Grange,  No.  190,  Patrons  of 
Husbandry,  meet  in  Ellensburg.  The  steam  saw  mill  has  been  an  important  factor  in 
the  destinies  of  the  place. 

About  1871  Hastings  and  Sanders  built  a  small  grist  mill  four  miles  above  Ellens- 
burg. They  made  the  mill  stones  from  rock  which  themselves  quarried  out,  and  began 
to  make  flour  to  supply  the  local  demand.  Hastings  was  unfortunately  drowned ;  and 
the  partner  has  since  run  the  mill.  He  does  not  turn  out  sufficient  flour  for  all  the 
demand,  and  the  remainder  is  brought  by  sea  mostly  from  San  Francisco  by  the 
steamer  3Iary  D.  Hume.  The  ruling  prices  of  articles  on  the  coast  of  Curry  county^ 
of  course  vary  with  circumstances  as  elsewhere,  but  may  in  general  be  said  to  conform 
to  this  list,  which  exhibits  them  for  the  fall  of  1883.  Hay,  twelve  dollars  per  ton  ; 
salmon,  twenty  cents  each  ;  potatoes,  cabbage,  wheat,  oats  and  barley,  each  two  cents 
per  pound ;  fresh  pork,  retail,  eight  to  ten  cents ;  fresh  beef,  retail,  twelve  to  fifteen 
cents ;  butter,  twenty-five  to  forty  cents.  Wheat,  flour,  horse  feed  and  even  vegeta- 
bles, are  at  times  brought  from  San  Francisco,  while  hundreds  of  acres  of  excellent 
myrtle  bottom  exist  not  far  from  Ellensburg,  capable,  if  cleared  and  cultivated,  of  pro- 
ducing enormous  crops  of  vegetables,  clover,  grain,   etc.,  and  supplying  ten  times  the 


CURRY  COUNTY.  481 

demand  of  the  small  coast  population.  Were  there  cheap,  .sj)eedy  and  regular  means 
of  transportation  to  and  from  San  Francisco,  Curry  county  ought  to  furnish  that  me- 
tropolis with  many  of  the  above  articles,  instead  of  receiving  them  from  her. 

The  trail  southward  from  EUensburg  crosses  Hunter's  creek,  a  small  stream,  with 
a  narrow  valley,  cultivated  by  a  few  settlers.  The  region  all  about  is  extremely  wild 
and  romantic,  both  ocean  and  niountainward.  Grazing  is  much  pursued,  and  upon 
the  "  prairies  "  many  sheep  may  be  seen.  Between  Hunter's  creek  and  Pistol  river 
the  trail  ascends  a  very  high  mountain,  where  a  splendid  view  of  the  Pacific  may  be 
gained.  Pistol  river  is  larger  than  the  first  mentioned  stream,  and  is  fifteen  miles  by 
the  trail  from  Rogue  river.  Upon  this  stream  also  dwell  settlers  wdio  have  made  valu- 
able improvements.  Near  Whale's  Head — a  remarkable  promontory  bearing  a  resem- 
blance to  that  animal — is  a  considerable  tract  of  fertile  land,  upon  which  R.  Scott  is 
located  and  has  an  excellent  establishment,  devoted  mainly  to  grazing.  Fourteen  miles 
beyond  is  Chetco  (so  called  from  the  name  of  an  Indian  tribe)  where  dwells  quite  a 
c  immunity  of  farmers,  graziers  and  dairymen,  who  make  up  a  section  ranking  fourth 
in  the  county  as  to  population.  The  soil  is  extremely  fertile,  and  within  the  limited 
area  of  the  section  there  are  ample  opportunities  for  a  self-supporting  population  to 
thrive  and  prosper.  The  Chetco  river  or  creek  is  crossed  by  two  feri'ies — Miller's, 
nearest  the  mouth,  and  Smith's,  two  miles  above.  At  the  latter  the  stream  is  about 
120  yards  wide  and  is  fordable  in  summer.  For  a  dozen  miles  or  so  along  the  stream, 
settlers  possess  and  are  clearing  the  rich  soil,  and  so  making  pleasant  homes  for  them- 
selves and  their  posterity.  South  of  the  creek  a  bench  of  level  and  rich  soil  begins,  a 
mile  in  width,  fronting  on  the  ocean  and  backed  by  low,  fern-covered  hills  which  lie 
toward  the  east.  Here  are  some  very  fine  farms,  mainly  devoted  to  wdieat  raising,  but 
possessing  orchards  and  other  improvements  Some  prominent  settlers  are  the  Cooleys, 
Blake  and  McVay.  William  Kirk  keeps  a  store  at  a  point  a  fourth  of  a  mile  south  of 
the  Blake  ranche.  The  port  of  Chetco  hardly  deserves  the  name  of  harbor,  being 
only  a  landing  where  the  steamer  Hume  and  schooner  Ester  Cobos  occasionally  call,  to 
bring  merchandise  and  carry  away  wool,  hides  and  dairy  products.  The  Chetco  coun- 
try has  often  been  called  Egypt,  since  at  one  time  it  supplied  nearly  all  of  Del  Norte 
county  with  wheat.  In  this  region  are  to  be  found  good  roads — very  rare  in  the 
remainder  of  the  county.  There  are  no  mills,  either  for  lumber  or  Hour  making  in 
Clietco,  but  the  wheat  is  hauled  to  Smith's  river,  six  miles  beyond  the  state  line,  and 
there  ground  into  flour.  Lumber  is  also  i)urchased  in  Del  Norte  county.  There  are 
two  small  fisheries  on  Chetco  creek  but  the  catch  is  transferred  to  Del  Noi-te  county 
for  canning  and  shipment.  Dairying  is  quite  an  industry  hereabouts,  and  an  excellent 
article  of  butter  is  made  on  various  ranches,  particularly  J.  A.  Cooley's  "  Fountain 
ranch,"  which  is  well  fitted  up,  having  a  stream  of  running  water  to  propel  the  churn, 
and  also  to  keep  the  temperature  of  the  dairy  house  at  the  right  point. 

Winchuck— an  Indian  word— is  the  nan\e  of  a  snudl  river,  the  southernmost 
stream  in  Curry  county,  and  aimnst  ui)on  the  state  line.  Salmon  swarm  in  the  Win- 
chuck  and  J.  B.  Wilson  has  the  small  beginning  of  a  fi.shery,  where  he  puts  up  a  hun- 
dred barrels  each  year.  Upon  and  about  the  lower  i)ortion  of  the  river  there  are  set- 
tlers, mostly  recent  ones,  who  are  carving  out  hom&s  for  themselves  in  a  promising  local- 
ity, though  a  very  isolated  one. 


482  SOUTHERN  OREGON.; 

Altliough  the  Winchuck  is  looked  upon  as  the  dividiug  line  between  California  and 
Oregon,  its  mouth  is  half  a  mile  north  of  the  true  boundary,  which  is  the  forty-second 
parallel.  Upon  the  beach  can  be  seen  a  stone  post  which  marks  the  line  accurately. 
A  farm  house  near  by  stands  upon  the  line,  and  its  distinguished  owner  enjoys  the 
felicity  of  eating  in  the  one  state  and  sleeping  in  the  other.  Upon  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  and  consequently  in  Oregon,  is  a  grove  of  redwood  trees — the  sequoia  sem- 
pervirens — supposed  to  be  the  only  living  reijresentatives  of  this  species  in  the  state. 


coos   COUNTY, 


CHAPTER    LX. 


THE  SOUTHERN  PORTION  OF  THE  COUNTY 

Boundaries  of   Coos  County— The  Coquille  and  its  Tributaries— Splendid  Forests— Valley  of  the  Coquille— Her- 
mansville  and  its  Founder  -Myrtle    Point— Catching  Creek— Forks  of  the   Coquille — Norway— The  Coquille 
Navigable— Coquille  City— The  Road  to  Coos  Bay— Parkersburg— The  Salmon  Cannery— Grube's  Saw  Mill 
Randolph— Bandon— The  Coquille  Bar. 

Coos  county  is  situated  on  the  coast  of  Southern  Oregon,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
north  and  east  by  the  county  of  Douglas,  on  the  south  by  Curry  and  on  the  west  by 
the  Pacific  ocean.  The  county  is  irregular  in  outline,  and  has  a  length  from  north  to 
south  of  about  fifty  miles,  with  a  maximum  breadth  of  about  thirty.  Its  area  is  ap- 
proximately 1,100  square  miles,  or  about  700,000  acres  of  land.  Its  surface  is  very 
broken  and  diversified,  containing  mountains,  though  not  of  great  altitude,  valleys, 
streams,  swift  or  sluggish,  and  finally  a  bay  of  considerable  extent.  Generally  speak- 
ing, the  contour  of  Coos  county  is  basin-like,  with  hills  completely  surrounding  it,  and 
forming  its  rim,  excepting  on  the  western  edge,  which  terminates  at  the  sea  beach.  At 
this  particular  part  of  the  coast  of  Oregon,  the  Coast  Range  mountains  recede  from 
the  ocean,  leaving  a  comparatively  level  tract  of  land  which  forms  the  greater  portion 
of  Coos  county,  and  approaching  the  sea  to  the  north  and  south  the  mountain  spurs  cut 
off"  and  isolate  the  region  almost  perfectly.  That  part  of  the  Coast  Range  lying  east 
of  Coos  county  is  usually  termed  the  Umpqua  mountains ;  and  those  to  the  south  and 
southwest  are  called  the  Rogue  river  mountains.  The  two  chains  are  continuous,  how- 
ever, their  point  of  union  being  at  Camas  valley,  on  the  headwaters  of  the  middle  fork 
of  the  Coquille,  where  a  low  pass  exists,  whereby  communication  takes  place  from  east 
to  west.  Passes  exist  also  at  other  localities,  but  of  less  flivorable  character  for  ordinary 
communication.  The  most  frequently  traveled  route  between  Coos  county  and  the  val- 
ley to  the  eastward  is  the  Coos  bay  stage  road,  which  ascends  the  north  fork  of  the 
Coquille  and  crosses  the  range  at  the  head  of  Brewster  canyon  and  west  of  Looking- 
glass  valley.  To  the  north  of  the  stage  road  the  mountains  are  exceedingly  rough  and 
mountainous  and  entirely  impassable.  Among  them  several  streams  head,  those  in  the 
west  side  flowing  into  Coos  bay,  while  the  eastern  slope  is  drained  by  the  Umpqua.  A 
still  larger  number  of  streams  rises  among  the  Rogue  river  chain — the  Coquille  and  it.s 
tributaries  draining  the  northern  and  western  slope,  the  South  Umpqua  the  oastcni, 
and  the  Rogue  river  the  southern. 


484  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

Coos  county  is  divided  naturally  into  two  topographical  sections,  the  valleys  of  the 
Coquille  and  Coos  bay.  The  country  drained  by  the  Coquille  foi'ms  about  two-thirds 
of  the  total  area  of  the  county,  and  comprises  the  southern  part.  The  tributaries  of 
that  river  are  its  three  branches,  called  north,  middle  and  south  forks;  Russell,  Catch- 
ing, Hall,  and  other  creeks,  and  many  sloughs.  The  Coquille  itself  is  formed  by 
the  confluence  of  its  forks  at  the  head  of  tide  water  near  Myrtle  Point  and  flows  into 
the  ocean  sixteen  miles  due  west  of  the  point  of  junction,  but  forty-five  miles,  if  the 
meanderings  of  the  stream  be  counted.  For  all  the  distance  it  is  navigable  for  small 
vessels,  and  for  the  lower  twenty  miles  for  craft  of  large  size.  Consequently  the  stream 
is  of  great  importance  to  the  county,  affording  a  reliable  and  cheap  means  of  commu- 
nication. It  serves  the  purpose  of  a  highway,  and  nearly  all  traffic  is  carried  on  by 
means  of  boats  borne  upon  its  waters.  It  forms  the  longest  navigable  highway  in  Ore- 
gon south  of  the  Willamette.  The  Coquille,  as  well  as  its  tributaries,  flows  through  a 
heavily  wooded  country.  Splendid  forests  of  fir,  cedar,  myrtle,  maple  and  other  beau- 
tiful and  valuable  woods  adorn  the  banks,  and  cover  the  hills  and  valleys  as  far  as  the 
vision  can  extend.  The  soil  that  supports  these  growths  is  of  a  rich  description,  being- 
composed  of  the  finely  divided  particles  of  sandstone  worn  from  the  mountains  which 
compose  the  Coast  Eange,  and  brought  down  by  the  torrents  in  winter  and  deposited 
on  the  lower  part  of  their  course,  where,  mingled  with  vegetable  matter,  they  form  a 
soil  of  a  light,  porous  nature,  easily  worked  but  wonderfully  productive  of  nearly  every 
known  crop.  These  are  the  myrtle  bottoms,  so  styled  by  the  settlers  because  the  myi"- 
tle  is  found  growing  thereupon.  The  myrtle  groves  are  extremely  beautiful,  the  stately 
shafts  of  the  trees  resembling,  with  their  spreading  capitals  of  limbs  and  leaves,  some 
imaginative  picture  of  an  ancient  cathedral.  The  shade  is  veiy  dense,  nearly  every 
rav  of  sunlight  being  interrupted  by  the  thick  crown  of  lance-shajjed  leaves  interlock- 
ing from  tree  to  tree,  so  that  a  sort  of  twilight  always  reigns.  The  usual  height  of  the 
myrtle  is  about  sixty  feet  and  the  trunk  is  bare  of  limbs  for  a  great  part  of  its  height. 
The  myrtle  has  great  value  as  an  ornamental  wood  suitable  for  cabinet  making.  It 
grows  in  such  vast  quantities  in  the  low  lands  along  the  coast  that  no  demand  could 
ever  arise  which  could  not  be  fully  met.  It  is  said  that  under  certain  conditions  of 
temperature  that  this  wood  is  liable  to  decay,  but  that  point  is  not  yet  fully  settled _ 
Aside  from  its  value  as  fuel,  this  beautiful,  hard,  dense  and  finely-grained  wood  is  not 
in  extensive  use  or  demand.  The  fir,  of  three  species,  yellow,  red  and  white,  is  being 
converted  into  lumber  as  fast  as  circumstances  require.  Nowhere  in  the  world  does 
the  fir  attain  a  greater  size  than  in  Coos  county.  It  forms  a  resource  of  great  impor- 
tance, though  by  no  means  an  inexhaustible  one.  The  same  remarks  apply  to  the 
white  cedar,  with  the  qualifications  that  this  tree  is  more  in  demand,  as  its  lumber  brings 
a  higher  price,  is  less  abundant  and  likely  to  become  extinct  in  comparatively  few 
years. 

The  valley  proper  of  the  Coquille  is  about  four  miles  wide,  and  the  greater  part  of 
the  land  included  in  it  would  be  tillable  if  cleared  of  the  trees.  The  fertility  of  the 
myrtle  bottoms,  which  occur  on  nearly  all  the  streams  in  Coos  county,  as  well  as  Curry 
and  the  western  part  of  Douglas,  is  amazing.  Crops  of  all  sorts  that  are  suited  to  the 
climate  flourish  exceedingly,  and  the  soil  being  deep  and  porous  admits  of  thorough 
drainage  and  easy  cidtivation.     There  is,  however,  great  difficulty  in  clearing  these 


coos  COUNTY.  485 

lands,  for  the  myrtle  is  extremely  tenacious  of  life,  and  after  the  tree  is  felled  the  stump 
retains  its  vitality  for  generations,  and  will  continue  to  put  forth  rank,  green  shoots 
which  grow  rapidly  and  require  to  be  trimmed  off  each  year.  It  costs,  say  the  farmers 
of  the  Coquille,  not  less  than  fifty  doUai's  to  clear  an  acre  of  myrtle  bottom,  and  con- 
sequently comi^aratively  few  acres  are  yet  denuded  of  their  trees.  It  is  the  prevailing 
impression  that  for  vegetables  and  cultivated  crops  of  all  kinds,  and  for  clover  and 
grasses  generally,  these  lands  are  not  exceeded  in  the  world.  This  is  the  belief  which 
thirty  years  of  hard  experience  has  taught,  and  that  no  one  who  has  traveled  through 
the  Coquille  country  will  deny. 

Upon  the  Coquille  and  its  tributaries  are  Hermansville,  Ott,  Gravel  Fort,  Myrtle 
Point,  Norway,  Dora,  Sitkum,  Fairview,  Coquille  City,  Parkersbui-g,  Randolph  and 
Bandou — all_  places  of  note,  and  some  importance. 

Beginning  with  the  tributaries,  we  learn  that  Hermansville  takes  its  name  from 
Dr.  Hermann,  of  Baltimore,  who  led  a  colony  of  industrious  and  intelligent  Germans  to 
Coos  county  in  1859,  and  settled  upon  the  rich  bottom  lands  of  the  south  fork,  a  few 
miles  from  its  mouth.  Here  the  colonists  made  homes  for  themselves  and  prospered 
finely  by  the  exercise  of  industry,  and  acquired  skill  in  their  new  pursuit  of  fiirming. 
The  leader  was  a  gentleman  of  the  highest  integrity  and  the  noblest  impulses.  To  him 
the  country  owes  a  great  debt,  as  he  drew  into  its  borders  an  intelligent  class  of  men 
nearly  all  of  whom  have  proved  most  exemplary  citizens,  and  some  of  them  still  live, 
venerated  and  respected  by  all.  The  younger  generation  of  the  colony  have  grown 
now  to  manhood  and  middle  age  and  occupy  important  positions  in  the  community. 
Hermansville,  the  family  seat  of  the  Hermanns,  is  still  in  the  possession  of  the  family, 
and  is  the  residence  of  the  mother ;  but  Doctor  Hermann  has  passed  over  to  the  silent 
majority,  having  died  on  the  sixteenth  of  December,  186U.  Myrtle  Point,  located  near 
the  mouth  of  the  north  fork,  is  a  village  of  importance  and  promise.  It  has  a  good 
location  at  the  head  of  tidewater,  and  stands  upon  a  plateau  sufficiently  elevated  above 
the  river  to  secure  immunity  from  floods,  and  is  capitally  situated  for  trade,  and  sup- 
plies the  valleys  of  the  south  and  middle  forks  with  merchandize  and  receives  in 
exchange,  the  products  of  those  fertile  regions.  The  population  of  the  village  is  about 
150.  It  has  two  stores  dealing  in  general  merchandise,  a  drug  store,  post  office,  two 
excellent  hotels,  a  lawyer's  office,  butcher  and  blacksmith  shops,  furniture  shop,  and 
other  buildings,  but  no  saloons.   There  is  an  excellent  brass  band,  and  a  literary  society. 

On  the  site  of  Myrtle  Point  was  once  an  Indian  village.  Ephraim  Catching  filed 
a  donation  claim  to  it  in  1853,  and  in  1861  a  village  was  platted  and  laid  out  by  Henry 
Myers,  from  whom  it  was  named  Myersville.  The  great  freshet  of  1801-2  put  a  period 
to  the  progress  of  the  new  town.  In  1876,  another  name  was  bestowed — that  it  now 
holds — and  the  place  was  again  surveyed.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  beautiful 
myrtle  groves  near  by.  A  steam  grist  mill  was  erected  by  C.  Lehnherr,  which  for  a 
time  formed  the  only  business  of  the  place  ;  but  Binger  Hermann,  obtaining  a  valuable 
part  of  the  site,  commenced  building  actively,  and  has  made  the  town  the  busiest  place 
in  the  county.  INIr.  Hermann  has  erected  a  fine  hotel,  thought  to  be  the  best  in 
Southern  Oregon  ;  an  immense  store  100  feet  long,  with  a  concert  hall  in  the  second 
story ;  warehouses,  and  other  buildings.  The  annual  sales  by  the  merchants  of  ^lyrtle 
Point  amount  to  about  |oO,000,  and  the  cost  of  freight  from  San  Francisco  is  eight 


486  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

dollars  per  tou.  The  average  value  of  cleared  farming  laud  uear  the  towu  is  forty 
dollars  per  acre,  and  the  cost  of  clearing  is  supposed  to  average  thirty  per  acre.-  There 
is  so)ne  vacant  government  land  near  by,  but  it  is  hilly  and  covered  with  timber,  tlie 
most  of  which  has  been  ruined  by  forest  fires.  The  lumber  men  of  the  vicinity  sell 
their  logs  at  the  mill,  being  at  the  pains  of  felling  and  peeling  them,  hauling  them  to 
the  stream  and  floating  them  to  the  mill.  Here  they  receive  five  dollars  per  thousand 
for  first-class  fir,  and  three  dollars  for  second-class.  Cedar  commands  ten  and  eight 
dollars  for  the  first  and  second  classes  respectively,  and  ash,  somewhat  more  valuable, 
sells  in  small  quantities  for  twelve  dollars  per  thousand  feet.  Biuger  Hermann  estimates 
that  there  are  50,000  acres  of  timber  standing  upon  the  south  fork,  28,000  upon  the 
middle  fork,  and  75,000  upon  the  north  fork.  This  estimate  of  course  includes  the 
lesser  tributaries  of  these  streams.  The  whole  area  is  thought  to  contain  800,000,000 
feet  of  timber,  the  most  of  it  of  a  good  quality,  and  part  of  it  unexcelled  for  any  uses  to 
which  lumber  may  be  put.  Fir  is  the  most  abundant  kind,  but  there  are  very  fine 
bodies  of  Port  Orford  cedar  upon  the  south  fork. 

Catching  creek  empties  into  the  South  fork,  a  mile  above  Myrtle  Point.  It  is  a 
small  stream,  only  large  enough  to  float  saw  logs,  for  which  purpose  it  is  made  available. 
It  heads  at  White  Rock,  uear  tlie  Curry  county  line;  has  a  course  of  twelve  miles, 
passing  through  a  narrow  valley  in  which  reside  ten  settlers  with  their  families.  These 
are  mostly  farmers,  and  do  some  lumbering  besides.  They  have  a  school  house.  The 
mail  route  to  Denmark,  Curry  county,  passes  up  this  creek  and  through  Lost  Prairie 
near  its  head,  and  over  the  high  divide  leading  to  Floras  creek.  All  about  that  region 
are  grazing  lands  in  abundance — prairies  with  the  richest  grass,  and  streams  of  excel- 
lent water — a  great  deal  of  the  territory  unoccupied  as  yet.  Catching  creek  received 
its  name  from  one  of  the  first  settlers  in  the  neighborhood.  In  the  Indian  troubles  of 
1856  a  stockade  was  built  near  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  by  the  settlers  and  some  vol- 
unteers from  Port  Orford,  who  came  up  with  Captain  John  Creighton,  to  protect  the 
people  living  thereabouts.  J.  B.  Dully,  E.  Catching,  Abram  Hoffman,  William  Myers, 
H.  H.  Woodward,  William  Rowland,  and  Miller  were  among  the  first  settlers  in 
the  upper  Coquille  valley.     Daily's  claim  was  wliere  Ratclift  's  mill  now  stands. 

The  settlers  on  the  middle  fork  with  their  families,  are  thought  to  number  from 
350  to  400  persons.  They  have  a  post  ofiice.  Enchanted  Prairie  by  name,  which  is  a 
considerable  distance  up  the  stream,  and  nearly  due  east  from  Myrtle  Point.  This 
place  was  settled  first  by  George  Barber,  in  1853.  There  is  no  saw  mill  upon  the 
stream,  but  two  grist  mills  have  been  put  up,  owned  by  A.  H.  Fish  and  O.  Reed,  the 
latter's  being  at  the  mouth  of  the  fork,  not  far  from  Myrtle  Point.  For  a  considerable 
distance  above  Enchanted  Prairie  the  middle  fork  passes  through  narrow  canyons,  but 
near  its  head  the  traveler  comes  to  Camas  valley,  on  the  western  edge  of  Douglas 
county.     Here  the  stream  rises,  flowing  thence  in  a  generally  westerly  direction. 

On  the  north  fork  a  considerable  amount  of  cultivatable  land  exists,  mostly  in 
small  and  isolated  sections.  The  myrtle  grows  plentifully,  and  many  clearings  have 
been  made,  but  the  badness  of  the  so-called  road — the  only  one  in  that  part  of  the 
county — prevents  the  pleasant  valley  from  being  settled.  Sitkum  is  the  name  of  a 
stage  station  in  Brewster  canyon,  thirty-two  miles  west  of  Roseburg,  and  an  equal 
distance  from  Coos  City.     Ten  miles  below  is  Dora,  the  residence  of  Mr.  Scofield,  who 


coos  COUNTY.  487 

is  postmaster.  Ne;ir  by  is  a  school  house.  The  stage  road,  leaving  Dora,  turns 
toward  the  Coos  bay  region,  but  here  begins  another  and  equally  bad  trail  which  leads 
along  the  north  fork,  through  a  pleasant  and  sparsely  settled  country  to  the  forks  of 
the  river.  Two  miles  below  Dora,  and  on  the  north  fork,  there  is  a  small  saw  mill, 
built  for  supplying  the  demand  of  the  neighborhood,  and  capable  of  cutting  2,000  feet  of 
lumber  daily. 

Norway,  three  miles  below  Myrtle  Point,  is  usually  reckoned  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion on  the  Coquille,  although  the  small  steamers  in  use  upon  the  river  are  able  to 
ascend  to  Myrtle  Point,  except  in  the  lowest  stages  of  water.  Norway  is  a  small  post- 
office  town,  containing  a  population  of  fifty  or  seventy-five  people,  with  hotels,  a  store, 
etc.,  and  comfortable  and  commodious  dwellings.  Surrounding  the  place  are  quite  a 
number  of  farms,  progressively  and  intelligently  cultivated. 

The  Coquille,  from  Norway  to  the  sea,  is  a  sluggish,  deep  and  comparatively  nar- 
row stream,  well  adapted  for  navigation.  Its  banks  are  lined  with  various  sorts  of  veg- 
etable growth,  of  the  most  luxuriant  description.  The  trees  are  mostly  myrtle  and 
vine-maple,  with  a  considerable  variety  of  other  species.  At  places  on  this  beautiful 
stream  the  spreading  myrtles  form  almost  an  entire  arch,  overhanging  the  water  for 
miles.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  picturesqueness  of  the  scenery  of  the  Coquille  and  its 
tributaries. 

The  Coquille,  as  has  been  said,  is  navigable.  Sea-going  vessels,  mostly  schooners, 
come  in  from  the  Pacific  and  load  with  lumber  at  Parkersburg  or  Coquille  City,  or 
with  salmon  at  the  cannery,  and  by  the  aid  of  a  tug  pass  down  stream  and  put  to  sea. 
Local  traffic  on  the  river  is  already  very  considerable,  for  about  2,000  people  derive 
their  necessary  supplies  of  merchandise  through  this  one  artery  of  commerce.  Two 
steamers  ply  upon  the  river,  the  propeller  Ceres  and  the  stern-wheeler  Little  Annie. 
They  make  alternate  trijis  between  Bandon  and  Norway,  or  Myrtle  Point,  touching  at  all 
the  landings  upon  the  river,  which  are  many.  The  length  of  their  trip  is  forty  miles^ 
and  they  occupy  a  day  in  making  it,  and  return  the  next  day. 

Coquille  City  is  the  most  populous  town  upon  the  river,  and  is  a  place  of  no  moan 
pretensions.  It  possesses  a  paper,  the  Coquille  Herald,  edited  and  published  by  Mr. 
Dean,  who  issued  the  first  number  but  a  year  since,  and  has  already  built  up  a  satisfac- 
tory circulation.  The  Herald  deals  mainly  with  local  affairs,  paying  great  attention  to 
the  resources  of  the  Coquille  region.  It  is  an  accurate  source  of  news,  painstaking 
and  reliable  in  every  respect,  and  considered  as  a  local  paper  has  not  a  superior  in 
Oregon.  The  Coquille  City  steam  saw  and  grist  mills  are  the  most  important  industries 
of  the  town.  They  were  built  in  1880  by  Bunch,  Bennett  and  Company,  but  are  now 
owned  by  B.  Hermann.  The  saw  mill  has  a  capacity  of  15,000  feet  of  lumber  per 
day,  and  contains  circular  saws,  edgers,  and  planing  and  matching  machines.  The 
shipments  are  made  to  San  Francisco,  and  average  one  schooner  load  per  month,  con- 
sisting of  white  cedar  and  planed  fir  lumber.  The  number  of  employees  is  fifteen, 
and  their  wages  range  from  forty  to  one  hundred  dollars  per  month  each.  About 
three  million  feet  of  lumber  is  annually  made  at  the  mill,  for  which  the  local  prices 
are,  for  rough,  second-class  fir,  nir.e  dollars  per  thousand;  fiooring,  eighteen  dollars; 
rustic,  sixteen  dollars  ;  first-class  cedar,  forty  dollars. 


488  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

The  town  contains  two  hotels,  several  stores,  a  drug  store,  post  office  and  the  usual 
assortment  of  blacksmith  and  carpenter  shops  found  in  a  place  of  this  kind.  There  is 
also  a  brewery.  Evan  Cunningham  was  the  pioneer  of  the  place,  coming  in  very  early 
years,  where  very  few  white  men  had  entered  the  country. 

Iowa  slough  enters  the  Coquille  about  twelve  miles  above  the  bar.  Its  former  name 
was  Dead  Man's  slough,  given  on  account  of  the  murder  of  two  white  men,  Venable 
and  Burton,  upon  its  banks  in  1854.  Five  Indians  were  suj)posed  to  have  been  con- 
cerned in  this  act,  and  three  of  them  being  captured,  were  taken  to  Randolph  and 
hanged.  One  of  the  others  was  hanged  on  Battle  Rock  at  Port  Orford,  as  before  men- 
tioned. 

Traffic  between  the  Coquille  valley  and  Coos  bay  is  conducted  very  peculiarly. 
Travelers  may  pass  between  Coquille  City  and  Marshfield  by  means  of  a  road,  difficult 
and  sometimes  nearly  impassable ;  or  they  may  take  the  celebrated  Beaver  slough 
route,  by  which  freight  is  usually  brought  into  the  Coquille  region.  It  is  a  very  pecul- 
iar mode  of  traveling  and  somewhat  beyond  ordinary  powers  of  description.  Poets 
have  sung  the  terrors  and  trials  incident  to  the  Beaver  slough  i^assage,  and  careworn 
passengers  have  compared  the  whole  thing  to  the  horrors  of  the  African  slave  ships. 
Setting  out  from  Myrtle  Point,  the  traveler  is  ordinarily  compelled  to  walk  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  when.  Providence  permitting,  he  is  taken  into  a  small  boat  and  rowed 
to  the  Ceres  or  the  Little  Annie,  and  conveyed  to  the  mouth  of  Beaver  slough,  a  few 
miles  below  Coquille  City  ;  here  awaits  him  a  long,  double-ended  skiff,  manned  by  two 
oarsmen,  whose  business  it  is  to  pole  the  boat  up  the  narrow,  still  and  tortuous,  ditch- 
like slough  for  a  few  miles,  when  the  traveler  gets  into  a  wagon  and  is  transported  sev- 
eral miles  further  to  the  far-famed  isthmus  railway,  where,  on  a  car  drawn  by  a  dummy 
engine,  he  is  brought  to  Isthmus  slough  at  a  point  where  the  water  is  navigable  to  the 
bay  and  he  reaches  Marshfield,  finishing  his  journey  by  steamer,  after  having  exper- 
ienced the  delights  of  travel  on  foot,  in  skiffs,  by  two  different  steamers,  in  a  mud- 
wagon  and  by  train,  at  an  expense  of  a  dollar  or  two  and  a  day's  time. 

The  next  place  of  importance  on  the  Coquille  below  Beaver  slough  is  Parkersburg, 
a  mill  site,  located  on  a  bluff  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river.  The  place  derives  its 
name  from  Captain  Parker,  a  prominent  individual  who  has  inhabited  the  county  for 
many  years,  and  who,  in  company  with  M.  L.  Hanscom,  built  a  saw  mill  at  the  place 
named.  This  mill,  after  producing  a  great  deal  of  lumber,  was  burned,  and  a  new 
one  built  to  replace  it.  The  present  structure  Is  a  very  imposing  one,  being  situated 
at  a  considerable  height  above  the  water's  edge,  and  is  120  feet  long.  It  was  finished 
in  the  fall  of  1883  and  is  provided  with  the  best  of  machinery,  steam  propelled,  and 
has  an  immense  capacity.  Surrounding  it  are  quite  a  number  of  neat  cottages,  the 
residences  of  those  who  are  engaged  in  or  about  the  mill.  This  is  the  station  of  the 
tug  boat  Katie  Cook,  which  is  used  to  tow  vessels  in  and  out  of  the  river.  A  new 
hotel  is  being  built  at  Parkersburg,  and  the  place  has  had  a  postpffiee  for  some  time. 
Near  Parkersburg  is  the  fish  canning  establishment  of  the  Coquille  Packing  Com- 
pany. This  is  an  important  and  quite  recent  enterprise,  begun  in  the  spring  of  1883 
hy  D.  H.  Getchell,  Frank  N.  Getchell,  E.  W.  Getchell,  J.  ^Y.  Hume,  S.  A.  Miller  and 
E.  R.  Hawes,  who  compose  the  association,  the  object  being  to  make  use  of  the  enor- 
mous number  of  salmon  which  run   in  the  Coquille.     Perfect  success  crowned  their 


coos    COUNTY.  489 

efforts,  and  a  business  has  resulted  which  employs  a  hundred  men  during  the  salmon 
season,  and  is  of  great  consequence  to  the  county.  The  cannery  is  first-class  in  its  ap- 
pointments, being  modeled  after  the  Columbia  river  canning  establishments,  where  the 
manager,  D.  H.  Getchell,  has  had  a  large  experience.  The  apparatus  required  was 
shipped  from  Portland,  Oregon,  on  a  steamer,  which  on  her  return  voyage  carried  from 
the  Coquille  a  cargo  of  lumber.  This  voyage  is  the  only  one  ever  made  between  the 
Columbia  and  Coquille  by  a  steamer.  A  short  distance  above  Parkersburg  is  Jens 
Jensen's  fishery,  where  salmon  are  caught,  salted  and  barreled  for  export.  One  or  two 
other  stations  of  this  sort  exist  on  the  Coipiille.  120,000  salmon  are  reckoned  to  have 
been  caught  in  the  river  in  1883. 

The  firm  of  Grnbe,  Pohl  and  Rink  built  a  saw  mill  upon  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  a  mile  above  Parkersburg,  in  18G7,  which  was  the  first  mill  of  importance  erected 
on  tlie  Coquille.  Captain  Tichenor  purchased  and  shipi^ed  in  1801)  the  first  cargo  of 
lumber  ever  taken  over  the  Coquille  bar.  Mr.  .Grube  now  owns  the  mill,  having  pur- 
chased his  partners'  interests.  Several  vessels,  mostly  schooners,  have  been  built  at 
the  mill.  The  mill  firm  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  the  Cordelia,  a  steamer  commanded 
by  Captain  Clemens,  a  resident  of  Coquille,  which  vessel  was  lost  with  several  persons 
in  January,  1878.  The  total  production  of  the  Grube  mill  from  the  beginning  until 
the  present  time  is  supposed  to  have  been  ten  million  feet  of  lumber. 

The  present  village  of  Randolph  stands  at  the  foot  of  a  rather  steep  bluff  a  few 
hundred  yards  north  of  the  Coquille  and  two  or  three  miles  from  the  mouth  of  that 
stream.  The  little  river  steamers  come  to  the  wharves  of  this  small  city,  making  their 
way  up  a  small  but  deep  slough  which  furnishes  sufficient  water  for  that  species  of 
navigation.  Randolph  has  a  jwst  office,  a  store  or  two,  a  brewery  of  very  fair  beer, 
and  a  small  number  of  cosy  residences,  and  contains  perhaps  100  inhabitants,  whose 
chief  occupation  is  lumbering  and  salmon  catching.  Near  town  is  a  lumber  chute 
leading  from  the  brow  of  the  bluff  spoken  of  and  ending  at  the  slough,  where  the  logs, 
launched  from  the  steep  height,  come  down  like  a  flash  of  light,  and  plunge  into  the 
waters.  The  town's  name  is  derived  from  a  preceding  town  of  Randolph,  a  t-elebrated 
mining  camp,  of  which  we  will  speak  later. 

Bandon  is  a  small  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  built  upon  the  bluff  to  tlie 
southward  of  the  entrance.  It  has  a  very  good  location  for  commerce  purposes  and  will 
])r()l)ably  keep  at  least  even  growth  with  the  Coquille  valley,  whose  principal  port  of 
entry  it  may  be.  The  place  was  founded  and  named  by  Cieorge  Bennett,  who  settled 
it  ill  1873,  bringing  from  Bandon,  in  Ireland,  his  two  sons,  J.  W.  and  G.  A.  Bennett, 
now  editors  and  proprietors  of  the  Coo^  Bm/  News,  of  Marshfield ;  and  six  others,  with 
the  intention  of  forming  a  colony.  When  work  began  upon  the  jetty  at  the  Coquille 
bar;  Bandon  took  a  forward  step  in  growth,  and  a  portion  of  the  money  expended 
there  went  directly  to  build  up  the  place.  At  present  there  are  three  hotels,  two  stores^ 
a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  wharves,  a  ferry,  and  other  imj)rovements.  Bandon  is  quite 
a  health  resort ;  and  in  truth  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  locality  better  adapted  to  the 
restoration  or  preservation  of  exuberant  health.  Tlie  climate,  as  shown  in  the  meteor- 
ological tables  accompanying  this  work,  is  favorable,  inasnuich  as  the  annual  variation  of 
temperature  is  a  minimum.  The  sea-breezes  renovate  tlie  atmosphere  and  l)raeeupthe 
system;  the  vicinitv  aboumls  with  beautiful  and  grand  scenery  and  numerous  objet-ts  <»f 


400  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

interest;  there  is  a  chalybeate  spring  near  by;  and  finally  the  neighboring- woods  abound 
with  game,  as  does  the  sea  with  fish. 

Like  all  the  rivers  of  the  northwest  coast  the  Coquille  has  a  bar  at  its  mouth, 
which  has  been  the  means  of  almost  entirely  preventing  vessels  from  entering.  Of 
late  the  United  States  government  has  undertaken  works  that,  although  as  yet  incom- 
plete, have  materially  improved  the  entrance.  Formerly  the  Coquille  ran  out  to  sea 
through  a  channel  comjmratively  free  from  rocks,  but  giving  insuificient  depth  of  water; 
at  a  later  period  the  main  channel  became  choked  up  and  diverted  to  a  rocky  and 
tortuous  course  by  which  for  several  years  vessels  were  effectually  kept  out.  A  few 
years  since  a  survey  of  the  bar  was  made  by  Major  Bolton,  of  the  U.  S.  engineers,  who 
recommended  that  $200,000  be  expended  in  constructing  jetties  upon  the  Eads  system, 
whereby  the  current  could  be  confined  to  a  small  portion  of  the  embouchure  and  its 
wearing  power  be  so  increased  as  to  deepen  the  channel  materially.  About  $20,000 
was  expended  in  accordance  with  this  suggestion,  with  the  most  gratifying  results.  A 
jetty  was  built  out  for  several  hundred  feet,  by  driving  piles  and  filling  interspaces 
with  rocks,  and  the  current  has  returned  to  its  old  channel  which  has  been  deepened 
several  feet.  At  present  there  is  a  suiEciency  of  water  to  allow  small  coasting  vessels 
to  pass,  and  no  doubt  exists  that  with  the  expenditure  of  more  money  and  the  proper 
lengthening  of  the  jetty,  the  largest  deep  water  ships  might  enter.  Formerly 
vessels  were  often  detained  for  weeks,  either  within  the  bar  or  without,  but  at  present 
detention  is  rare.  Freights  and  insurance  are  lower,  the  saw  mills,  which  furnish  the 
most  of  the  freight  have  increased  their  output,  and  beneficial  effect  of  the  government 
work  are  apparent  in  a  variety  of  ways. 


CHAPTER    LXI. 


coos    BAY    AND    ITS    VICINITY. 

Description— Character  of  the   Land— Geographical   Explorations—  Discovery  of  the  Bay— The   Coos    Bay  Com- 
pany-The  Randolph  Mines — The    Coal   Mines. 

The  region  of  Coos  Bay  lies  north  of  that  part  described,  and  is  separated  from  it 
by  a  water-shed  of  low  hills  running  parallel  to  the  Coquille  river.  The  tract  sur- 
rounds Coos  bay,  which  receives  a  number  of  rivers,  creeks  and  sloughs  which  drain 
the  land  of  the  vicinity.  The  bay  is  an  extremely  irregular  body  of  water,  perhaps 
fifty  square  miles  in  area,  and  possessing  a  number  of  arms  which  penetrate  the  land 
for  a  considerable  distance  and  add  materially  to  its  area.  It  is  of  great  value  by 
reason  of  its  navigability,  affording  easy  means  of  communication  between  the  various 
points.  There  is  a  sufficient  depth  of  water,  particularly  in  the  western  portions,  to  float 
the  largest  ships ;  and  even  the  narrow  sloughs  emptying  into  it  are  susceptible  of 
being  improved  so  as  to  float  vessels  of  considerable  size. 


coos  COUNTY.  491 

The  character  of  the  land  is  similar  in  most  respects  to  that  of  the  Coquille.  A 
very  large  amount  of  marsh  laud  is  found  on  the  various  tributary  sloughs  and  creeks, 
most  of  it  being  covered  with  a  heavy  plant  growth.  A  great  deal  of  this  land  is 
susceptible  of  being  reclaimed,  when  it  will  be  enormously  productive.  Myrtle  bot- 
toms of  the  ordinary  description  are  common  upon  the  Coos,  Millicamas  and  other 
.streams  emptying  into  the  bay,  and  a  great  many  settlements  have  been  made  by  enter- 
pj-ising  farmers.  There  is  no  lack  of  fertile  soil  on  which  to  settle,  but  the  great  diffi- 
culty of  clearing  these  lands  is  almost  insurmountable.  If,  in  addition,  they  have  to 
be  dyked  to  keep  the  water  from  overflowing  them,  tho  cost  is  much  increased,  and 
unlimited  labor  and  expense  are  incurred.  In  spite  of  this  the  farming  community 
are  invariably  in  a  fairly  prosperous  condition,  obtaining  satisfactory  prices  for  their 
products,  and  realizing  high  profits. 

The  world  had  its  first  knowledge  of  the  coist  of  Coos  county  from  the  explora- 
tions of  D'Aguilar  and  Cook,  the  former  having  discovered  upon  the  coast  a  headland, 
which  he  named  Blanco,  because  of  its  color,  but  whether  the  headland  was  Cape 
Orford  or  Cape  Arago  it  is  imposssible  now  to  tell.  He  also  discovered  what  he  took 
to  be  the  mouth  of  a  large  river  in  the  latitude  of  Coos  bay,  which  was  doubtless  the 
bay  itself.  This  he  did  not  enter,  but  was  driven  away  by  stress  of  weather.  Later 
on  came  Captain  Cook,  who  named  the  point  of  land  between  the  Coquille  and  the  bay 
Cape  Gregory,  from  the  fact  of  the  discovery  taking  place  on  the  day  devoted  to  that 
saint.  Cape  Gregory  is  now  best  known  by  the  name  of  Cape  Arago.  Captain  Cook 
made  no  attempt  to  rediscover  D'Aguilar's  river,  and,  in  fact,  doubted  that  any  such 
discovery  had  been  made.  After  him  came  Vancouver,  who  likewise  passed  along  the 
coast  without  remarking  anything  except  the  peculiar  features  of  Cape  Gregory.  After 
them  came  many  other  navigators,  but  Coos  bay  seems  never  to  have  achieved  men- 
tion— though  its  existence  probably  was  known  to  the  Hudson  Bay  employees  at  Fort 
Umpqua — until  1852,  when  a  report  concerning  it  was  circulated  in  the  Umpqua  val- 
ley, then  receiving  its  first  settlers,  and  King,  a  venturesome  individual,  got  u[)  a  com- 
pany to  search  for  it.  The  explorers  set  out  from  Winchester  and  went  by  way  of 
Scottsburg  to  the  sea  coast  and  then  southward  to  the  bay.  They  were  P.  B.  ]\Iarple, 
Fitzhugh,  Flournoy,  Peyton,  King  and  two  other  whites,  with  two  Indians  as  guides 
or  interpreters.  Their  expedition  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  the  bay,  but  how  long 
they  remainetl  or  how  minutely  and  extensively  they  examined  the  region  cannot  be 
told.  Probably  this  happened  pretty  late  in  the  year,  for  in  the  following  ^lay  of 
1853  we  hear  of  Marple  lecturing  publicly  in  Jacksonville  on  the  beauties  and  advan- 
tages of  the  Coos  Bay  country,  as  it  was  already  called,  and  endeavoring  to  organize  a 
joint  stock  company  to  go  there  under  his  lead  and  take  possession  of  the  country. 
Ill  this  he  was  successful ;  and  an  association  of  men  calling  themselves  the  Coos  Bay 
Company,  set  out,  with  the  lecturer  as  guide,  for  the  promised  land.  It  was  at  a  time 
when,  as  before  mentioned,  a  perfect  fever  raged  for  discovering  and  settling  seajiorts 
available  for  traffic  with  the  miues,  and  no  difficulty  was  found  in  securing  recruits 
and  selling  stock.  JNIarple  was  to  have  ten  thousand  dollars  for  his  services  as  pilot 
and  for  his  discovery,  providing  that  it  was  as  represented.  The  object  of  the  com- 
pany was  to  thoroughly  explore  the  region,  sound  its  waters,  and  locate  donation  claims 
and  tovvnsites  upon  available  spots,  and  so  gain  control  of  the  bay  and  its  tributaries. 


492  SOUTHERN  OEEGON. 

These  objects  they  carried  out  as  well  as  their  means  would  allow.  These  pioneers  of 
Coos  county  were  W.  H.  Harris,  S.  K.  Belknap,  Solomon  Bowermaster,  A.  P.  DeCuis, 
Dr.  J.  H.  Foster,  A.  P.  Gaskell,  C.  W.  Johnson,  M.  M.  Learn,  F.  G.  Lockhart,  P. 
B.  Marple,  J.  A.  J.  McVay,  Joseph  McVay,  Dr.  A.  B.  Overbeck,  Charles  Pierce, 
David  Rohrer,  H.  A.  Stark,  S.  K.  Temple,  A.  H.  Thrift  and  George  L.  Weeks.  They 
made  their  way  to  the  head  waters  of  the  middle  fork  of  the  Coquille,  in  Camas  valley, 
and  followed  that  stream  to  its  confluence  with  the  main  river  and  then  to  the  ocean 
and  then  up  the  beach  to  South  slough  and  the  site  of  Empire  City.  Captain  Harris 
immediately  filed  a  claim  to  the  latter  locality  as  his  donation,  the  first  taken  in  Coos 
county.  Lockhai-t  took  a  claim  at  North  Bend,  and  the  other  members  of  the  com- 
pany, with  outside  parties  who  arrived  subsequent  to  the  above  named,  took  the  most 
available  claims  very  quickly.  Curtis  Noble  took  the  Coos  City  claim  and  J.  C.  Tol- 
man  the  Marshfield  site. 

The  first  vessel  known  to  have  entered  the  bay  was  a  schooner  bound  for  the 
mouth  of  the  Umpqua,  that  through  mistake,  found  herself  in  the  bay  instead.  This 
was  in  1852.  The  first  vessel  to  bring  a  cargo  to  the  bay  was  the  Cynosure,  a  sailing 
craft,  commanded  by  Captain  Whippy,  which  arrived  in  1853,  soon  after  the  opening 
of  the  Randolph  mines.  The  mention  of  these  famous  diggings  calls  up  a  subject  of 
the  greatest  interest  and  importance.  Before  the  Coos  Bay  Company  and  its  members 
had  got  fairly  settled  on  their  new  claims,  some  half-breed  Indians  prospecting  on  the 
ocean  beach  just  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Coquille,  found  abundance  of  gold  in  the 
black  sand  at  the  mouth  of  Whisky  run,  a  very  small  stream  which  makes  its  way 
into  the  ocean.  They  worked  these  placers  somewhat,  finding  gold  in  very  fine  jmr- 
ticles,  unevenly  distributed  through  the  mass  of  sand,  sometimes  there  being  hardly 
a  color ;  but  at  others  it  was  not  uncommon  to  get  eight  or  ten  dollars  from  a  pan- 
ful of  dirt.  These  men  sold  their  claim  in  the  summer  of  1853,  the  purchasers 
being  the  Macnamara  brothers,  who  worked  it  with  excellent  results.  The  total 
yield  of  this  claim  is  said  to  have  been  f  100,000.  Joe  Crowley,  one  of  the  origi- 
nal discoverers  of  the  Randolph  mines,  made  his  fortune  in  them  and  departed, 
taking  away  a  mule  load  of  gold.  His  luck  was  diversified,  however,  for  he  died  a 
pauper.  The  rumor  of  these  rich  mines  having  spread,  innumerable  miners  flocked  to 
them  and  began  prospecting.  The  ocean  beach  was  staked  off  for  miles  in  every 
direction,  and  not  less  than  a  thousand  men  were  gathered  there.  Besides  these,  an 
indefinite  number  were  prospecting  along  the  shore  from  Trinidad,  in  California,  to  the 
Umpqua  river.  A  town  sprang  uj)  at  Whisky  Run,  and  speedily  became  a  jalace  of 
importance,  containing  saloons,  restaurants,  stores,  lodging  houses,  tents  and  cabins  in 
large  numbers.  The  place  was  named  by  Dr.  Foster  and  Captain  Harris,  for  the 
famed  Virginian,  Randolph  of  Roanoke.  The  Coos  Bay  Company  built  a  trail  from 
Empire  City — their  chief  settlement  and  capital,  as  it  were — to  the  mines.  The  min- 
ing fever  was  of  great  use  to  Coos  bay  and  its  vicinity,  since  it  brought  to  the  attention 
of  the  world  at  large  the  advantageous  situation  of  the  new  port.  After  a  few  months 
of  active  work  the  mines  lost  prestige  and  speedily  sank  out  of  sight,  to  be  replaced 
in  the  public  mind  by  another  sort  of  mining,  and  one  that  was  destined  to  be  of  far 
greater  consequence  than  mere  gold  seeking. 


5  mii«^>»ii' ^  y ' 


■"~>«f*^w^  '^" 


nt^^**^"-" 


i    : 


coos  COUNTY.  493 

The  first  coal  discovered  was  on  tlie  Lockhart  claim,  at  North  Bend.  The  seam 
was  eighteen  inches  in  thickness,  and  was  deemed  so  valuable  that  the  owner  refused 
$40,000  for  it.  .  Veins  were  soon  after  found  near  Empire  City  and  at  other  places, 
but  none  of  them  were  immediately  worked.  The  first  coal  shipped  to  San  Francisco 
was  mined  on  the  Boatman  claim,  near  Coal  Bank  slough,  and  brought  a  price  of  forty 
dollars  per  ton.  A  previous  cargo  had  been  lost  with  the  vessel  carrying  it,  on  the 
Coos  Bay  bar.  In  1855  the  mines  of  Newport  and  Eastport  were  opened  and  during 
the  next  year  shipments  began  to  take  place.  These  were  rival  properties,  the  New- 
port being  owned  by  Lanagan  and  Eogers,  while  the  Eastport  belonged  to  Northrup 
and  Symonds,  who  were  succeeded  by  the  Pershbakers,  who  sold  to  J.  L.  Pool,  the 
present  proprietor.  A.  J.  Davis,  who  distinguished  himself  as  one  of  the  town  pro- 
prietors of  Marshfield,  acting  as  agent  for  a  San  Francisco  firm,  opened  a  mine  near 
the  mouth  of  Isthmus  slough,  in  1856,  expending  money  lavishly  to  construct  a  rail- 
road, storehouses,  wharf,  etc.,  before  the  size  of  the  vein  and  the  quality  of  the  coal 
were  found  out.  The  mine  proved  unsatisfactory  in  these  respects  and  was  abandoned 
after  an  expenditure  of  full  seventy-five  .thousand  dollars.  The  Hardy  mine,  opposite 
North  Bend,  was  opened  in  later  years  at  even  a  greater  expense,  and  ^^roved  equally 
valueless.  The  Henryville  mine,  opened  in  1874,  is  a  still  more  striking  example  of 
the  same  kind.  The  Southport  mine  on  the  contrary,  has  proved  valuable  and  lasting, 
and  is  still  producing  coal. 

Trade  centered  originally  at  Empire  C!ity  and  that  place  had  a  speedy,  but  not 
long  lived  growth.  The  town  is  about  six  miles  from  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  Coos 
bay.  It  now,  after  thirty  years  of  existence  and  innumerable  ^perturbations,  contains 
about  one  hundred  buildings,  mostly  situated  upon  a  beach  about  twenty-five  feet  in 
elevation,  but  the  business  portion  is  built  upon  the  flats,  at  less  height.  Its  buildings 
are  generally  well  constructed,  and  embrace  three  hotels,  four  saloons,  a  drug  store, 
variety  store,  and  two  stores  of  miscellaneous  articles,  a  dilapidated  Methodist  church, 
and  a  school  house  where  thirty  pupils  receive  instruction.  In  front  of  the  town  there 
are  mud  flats  of  considerable  extent,  which  prevent  vessels  from  apjiroaching  near  the 
shore,  and  across  these  flats  some  wharves  are  extended.  Camraann's  is  the  longest, 
and  has  a  railroad  track  for  transjjorting  goods  between  vessels  and  the  town.  Com- 
merce, mining  and  lumbering  built  up  Empire  City,  and  the  gradual  decay  of  the  one 
and  the  busy  rivalry  of  Marshfield  in  the  others  have  been  the  partial  ruin  of  the  place. 
Luse's  large  steam  saw  mill,  wliich  cut  20,000  feet  of  lumber  daily,  has  ceased  its  work 
forever.  The  neighboring  coal  seams,  found  on  the  INIarple  and  Foley  claims,  have 
been  abandoned  long  since.  Empire  City,  notwithstanding  her  decay,  still  remains  the 
county  seat ;  and  this  feet  has  the  most  to  do  with  sustaining  her  existence.  Coos  Bay 
being  a  port  of  entry,  the  United  States  custom  house  is  located  at  Empire  City.  In 
1857  the  Oregon  legislature  petitioned  congress  to  remove  the  ])ort  of  entry  from  Port 
Orford  to  "  Kowes  Bay,"  or  else  to  form  a  new  collection  district  of  the  latter,  whicli 
in  the  fullness  of  time  was  done.  Empire  City  has  apparently  taken  a  new  lease  of 
life  in  consequence  of  the  operations  and  investments  of  the  Southern  Oregon  Improve- 
ment company,  who  have  i)urehased  a  great  deal  of  property  in  and  about  the  place, 
including  17<)  town  lots. 


494  SOUTHERN  OREGON. 

The  iiroraising  and  imijortant  town  of  Marshfieid,  the  einpormm  of  the  Coos  Bay 
country,  and  the  true  capital  of  the  region,  stands  upon  the  southern  shore  of  the  bay, 
nearly  east  from  Empire  City,  to  which  there  is  access  by  land  and  by  water,  the  latter 
course  being  twice  as  long  as  the  former,  since  the  small  passenger  steamers  are  com- 
pelled to  follow  a  course  curved  like  a  horse-shoe,  whereof  Marshfieid  and  Empire 
occupy  the  two  ends.  As  before  remarked,  J.  C.  Tolman  was  the  first  claimant  of  the 
town  site.  He  built  a  log  house  upon  the  land,  which  building  is  now  occupied  by  M. 
Malarkey.  In  order  to  build  up  a  town  Mr.  Tolman  induced  Crosby  and  Williams  to 
put  up  a  store,  which  they  did,  but  failed  to  continue  the  venture.  In  1854  A.  J. 
Davis  became  possessed  of  a  half  interest  in  the  site,  and  hired  to  represent  his  interest,' 
Wilkins  Warwick,  who  was  to  hold  the  claim.  Warwick  entered  the  land  in  his 
own  name,  but  subsequent  to  an  act  of  congress  prohibiting  town  sites  from  being  held 
as  donation  claims,  which  vitiated  the  title  to  the  laud  and  was  eventually  a  source  of 
detriment  to  the  2:)lace.  H.  H.  Luse,  purchasing  Warwick's  title,  got  it  confirmed  at 
great  expense  and  trouble,  and  for  many  years  kept  the  land  (160  acres)  in  litigation. 
Finally,  at  his  death  the  Southern  Oregon  Improvement  Company  purchased  his  title 
and  cut  the  Gordian  knot  by  having  the  land  appraised,  and  sold  it  to  the  uneasy 
occupants  at  one-fourth  discount.  The  name  had  been  given  the  place  as  early  as 
1854,  either  as  descriptive  of  the  surrounding  country,  which  is  somewhat  moist,  or  in 
memory  of  Marshfieid,  Massachusetts,  the  home  of  Daniel  Webster.  Only  a  small 
trading  post  and  a  humble  inn  existed  here  until  1867,  ten  years  after  the  time  was 
surveyed  into  lots.  The  store  was  kept  by  various  persons  at  different  times,  the  best 
known  of  them  being  Charles  Pershbaker.  The  little  tavern  was  kept  by  "  Cap." 
Hamilton.  In  1867  the  Marshfieid  saw  mill  was  built  by  John  Pershbaker,  and  ship- 
building was  actively  begun.  The  vessels  launched  here  were  the  tug  Escort,  the 
schooners  Staff  ho  u/id,  Louisa  Morrison,  Ivan  hoe  and  Annie  Stauffer,  and  the  barkentiue 
Amelia.  The  firm  of  Dean,  Wilcox  and  Merchant  came  into  possession  of  the  mill 
property  about  1873  and  continued  the  building  of  vessels,  of  which  about  a  dozen 
have  since  been  launched  at  the  Marshfieid  yard. 

The  town  has  pursued  a  steady  growth  in  subsequent  years,  bidding  successfully 
for  the  trade  of  the  bay,  and  has  attained  a  population  of  about  800.  There  are  three 
large  stores  of  general  merchandise,  two  drug  stores,  three  blacksmith  shops,  two  furni- 
ture stoies,  two  variety  stores,  a  hardware  store,  two  butcher  shops,  two  millinery  stores, 
three  boot  and  shoe  stores,  two  jewelers,  three  doctors,  a  dentist  and  five  lawyers.  There 
are  three  hotels,  a  restaurant,  two  livery  stables;  also  several  secret  societies — of  whom 
the  Masons  have  a  hall  of  their  own,  two  photographic  establishments,  eight  saloons, 
a  brewery,  the  Marshfieid  Academy  (the  most  westerly  educational  concern  of  a  high 
order  in  America),  a  church  now  being  built,  and  two  newspajier  offices  complete  the 
list.  The  Coos  Bay  News,  was  established  by  John  M.  Siglin,  being  the  first  news- 
paper issued  in  the  county.  It  is  now  conducted  by  the  Bennetts,  J.  W.  and  G.  A. 
The  Coast  Hail  is  also  a  weekly  issue,  but  of  comparatively  recent  foundation. 

The  firm  of  E.  B.  Dean  and  company  own  and  conduct  a  varied  business,  embrac- 
ing merchandise,  the  manufacture  of  lumber  and  ship  building.  The  steam  saw  mill 
has  a  capacity  of  cutting  50,000  feet  of  lumber,  daily,  this  being  the  largest   in  the 


coos  COUNTY.  495 

country.  At  the  yard  have  been  built  a  hirge  number  of  vessels,  those  launched  Ijefore 
the  year  1879  aggregating  5,500  tons. 

Marshfield  wears  quite  an  imposing  appearance  as  seen  from  the  water  front.  The 
large  mill,  the  bay  steamboats  lying  at  the  long  wharf,  the  sailing  vessels  loading 
there,  the  active  business  portion  of  the  town,  and  the  pleasant  residences  in  the  back- 
ground shaded  by  lofty  evergreens,  make  up  a  picture  which  is  at  once  unique  and  en- 
livening. There  are  quite  a  number  of  settlements  on  or  near  the  bay,  of  importance 
secondary  to  the  two  mentioned.  At  North  Bend  the  large  saw  mill  and  ship  yard  of 
A.  M.  Sim23Son  and  brother  are  located.  The  senior  partner  of  the  firm  is  the  pio- 
"neer  manufacturer  of  lumber  upon  Coos  bay,  and  laid  here  the  foundation  of  his  wealth 
and  influence.  Up  to  the  year  1878  twenty-two  vessels  have  been  built  at  the  yard 
with  a  total  tonnage  of  nearly  10,000.  One  of  these,  the  ship  Western  Shore,  was  the 
largest  craft  ever  launched  on  the  Pacific  ocean.  This  yard  is  the  most  important  in 
the  state. 

Coaledo  is  located  at  the  head  of  boat  navigation  on  Beaver  slough,  five  meander- 
ing miles  from  the  Coquille.  The  town,  as  its  name  may  imply,  took  its  rise  from 
coal  mines,  for  William  Utter  opened  the  mine  which  bears  his  name,  situated  a  mile 
away,  and  directly  the  village  of  Coaledo  became  a  reality.  A  great  deal  of  money 
was  expended  in  the  search  for  coal,  and  a  railway  was  built  for  its  transportation  ;  but 
the  prospector  failed  and  Coaledo  lost  the  greater  part  of  its  population.  It  is  now 
nine  years  since  work  ceased,  and  time  and  fire  have  made  many  ravages  in  the  village. 
It  now  has  a  hotel,  a  saloon  and  a  few  residences.  A  mile  and  a  half  away  are  the 
ruins  of  a  saw  mill  built  in  1874  by  Mr.  Dunham.  Some  logging  is  done  on  the  isth- 
mus, as  the  locality  is  called,  and  the  lumber  is  transported  to  the  bay,  being  taken 
on  the  isthmus  railway,  previously  mentioned,  to  deep  water  on  Isthmus  slough,  a 
branch  of  Coos  bay.  The  northern  terminus  of  this  miniature  railroad  is  Utter  City, 
named  for  the  indefatigable  coal  prospector.  Across  Isthmus  slough  from  the  last 
mentioned  locality  are  the  works  of  a  very  extensively  but  unsuccessfully  prospected 
coal  mine,  which,  like  Utter's,  broke  the  fortune  of  its  owner.  Further  down  the 
slough  is  Coos  City,  a  place  of  only  prospective  importance,  and  the  terminus  of  the 
stage  road  leading  to  Roseburg.  The  Aaronville  saw  mill  is  located  a  short  distance 
below  Coos  City  and  not  far  from  Marshfield. 

Sumner  stands  at  the  head  of  Catching  slough,  a  quiet  and  diminutive  hamlet  of 
no  distinguishing  peculiarities.  North  of  the  slough  is  the  inhabited  portion  of  Coos 
river  valley,  a  wealthy  and  important  section.  The  mouth  of  that  river  is  three  miles 
northeast  of  Marshfield.  The  stream  is  noted  for  its  lumbering,  which  has  been  car- 
ried on  for  years,  until  the  low  lands  have  been  denuded  of  their  trees,  and  falling  into 
the  hands  of  industrious  farmers  have  been  cleared  of  stumps -and  brush  and  converted 
into  fields  of  the  smoothest  descri2:)tion.  A  great  deal  of  the  rich  bottom  land  has  been 
dyked  to  prevent  overflow,  and  its  value  is  much  enhanced  by  the  treatment.  \  part 
of  the  valley  is  highly  cultivated,  and  many  valuable  fjirm  products  are  raised,  includ- 
ing vegetables  and  fruit,  for  which  an  abundant  market  is  found  at  the  various  .settle- 
ments around  the  bay. 


CHAPTER    LXIL 


RESOURCES   AND    BUSINESS. 


Derivation  of  the  Name— Incorporation— Coos  Bay  Bar —Resources— Forests— Statistics— Outlets  for  Business— 
The  Southern  Oregon  Improvement   Company. 

The  word  Coos  is  judged  to  be  an  Indian  name,  of  doubtful  signification,  which 
being  heard  by  travelers  in  the  wilds  to  the  west  of  the  Coast  Range,  was  conferred 
either  uj^on  Coos  river  or  bay,  and  afterward,  on  the  formation  of  the  county,  was 
given  to  it.  The  first  printed  matter  which  relates  to  the  word,  gives  it  as  Cowes' 
river ;  and  the  name  Cowan's  river  was  in  use  for  the  same  stream.  Some  have  thought 
that  the  word  was  an  eastern  im23ortation,  coming  from  Coos  county,  New  Hampshire. 
Until  of  late  years,  the  spelling  of  the  word  was  not  fixed,  and  Coose  was,  perhaps, 
its  most  common  form.  Coos  is  also  regarded  as  the  Indian  imitation  of  coast,  which 
the  natives  may  have  attempted  to  speak.  In  this  connection  we  may  remark  that 
the  derivation  of  the  name  Coquille,  although  much  has  been  written  and  said  con- 
cerning it,  admits  of  no  doubt  whatever  :  it  is  a  French  word  meaning  shell  or  husk — 
a  reasonable  enough  origin  considering,  first,  that  the  French-speaking  trappers 
undoubtedly  penetrated  to  the  Coquille  valley;  and,  second,  that  shell-fish  of  various 
sorts  exist  in  the  ocean  near  the  river's  mouth.  It  may  be  worthy  of  remark  that  the 
Indian  name  of  the  Coquille  river  was  Nes-sa-til-eut . 

The  act  incorporating  Coos  county  became  a  law  on  the  twenty-second  of  Decem- 
ber, 1853.  The  boundaries  of  the  new  county  comprised  "all  that  part  of  Umpqua  and 
Jackson  counties,  with  the  following  boundaries,  to-wit :  Beginning  at  a  point  on  the 
ocean  eight  miles  south  of  the  Umpqua  river;  thence  southeast  to  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  waters  of  the  Umpqua  and  Coos  and  Coquille  rivers ;  thence  along  the' 
summit  of  the  divide,  to  the  southwest  corner  of  Douglas  county  ;  thence  south  to  the 
source  of  the  south  fork  of  the  Coquille ;  thence  south  to  the  forty-second  parallel ; 
thence  west  to  the  Pacific  ocean  ;  thence  north  to  the  place  of  beginning."  Rather 
more  than  half  of  this  area  was  erected  into  a  separate  county  three  years  later,  under 
the  name  of  Curry. 

The  bar  at  the  mouth  of  Coos  Bay,  like  that  of  the  Coquille,  has  always  been  a 
serious  detriment  to  navigation,  inasmuch  as  the  depth  of  water  is  naturally  only  suffi- 
cient to  admit  the  smaller  class  of  vessels,  such  as  schooners,  coasting  steamers,  and 
the  like,  most  of  which  draw  less  than  ten  feet.  But  the  general  governmentappropriated 
large  sums  for  permanent  improvement  of  the  bar,  and  by  extending  a  jetty  into  the 
channel  near  Rocky  Point,  the  course  of  the  current  has  been  changed,  with  the  most 
beneficial  effects.  At  present  there  is  a  minimum  depth  of  eighteen  feet,  which  is  a 
vast  improvement  over  its  former  condition. 


V 


'^A 


YT^h' 


:»f 


M   0 


coos  COUNTY.  497 

A  large  number  of  casualties,  many  of  them  very  severe,  have  occurred  at  this 
entrance.  The  Cohansa,  Jackson,  Cyclops,  Noyo,  New  World,  Fearless  (tug),  D.  31. 
Hall,  Ida  Rogers,  Gussie  Telfair,  Charles  Devens,  Energy,  aad  other  vessels, have  been 
wrecked  at  various  times,  and  several  persons  and  much  property  lost.  The  wreck  of 
the  schooner  Quadrat  as  cost  the  lives  of  Mrs.  McDonald  and  her  child,  and  Mr. 
Simpson,  a  member  of  the  lumbering  firm  of  A.  M.  Simpson  &  Company.  When,  in 
1852,  the  brig  General  Lincoln,  with  a  detachment  of  soldiers  from  Vancouver,  had 
nearly  reached  Cape  Arago,  on  her  way  to  Port  Orford,  she  sprung  a  leak  and  was 
beached  a  mile  from  the  Coos  Bay  bar,  and  the  troops  completed  the  remainder  of  their 
journey  on  foot.  In  the  early  history  of  the  bay  there  is  a  recollection  of  a  boat's 
crew  of  youug  men  being  drowned  on  the  bar  while  endeavoring  to  j)iiot  an  incoming 
vessel,  said  to  have  been  the  Cynosure.  Dewey,  Brooks,  Starr,  Winters  and  two  others, 
were  the  unfortunates.  With  such  a  series  of  fatal  accidents,  many  of  which  have  not 
been  mentioned,  it  is  no  wonder  that  Coos  Bay  bar  is,  or  rather  has  been  regarded  as 
dangerous.  The  late  improvements  have  materially  decreased  the  danger  at  this  date, 
and  there  is  every  prospect  that  the  harbor,  otherwise  an  excellent  one,  will  become 
eminently  safe  of  entrance  and  exit. 

The  Coos  Bay  region  and  Coos  county  in  general  have  been  justly  regarded  as 
possessing  unlimited  wealth  and  resources.  It  is  questionable  if  nature  ever  concen- 
trated upon  so  small  a  section  so  many  and  such  various  sources  of  material  prosperity. 
The  county,  as  we  have  seen,  is  circumscribed  and  hemmed  in  by  the  Coast  Range, 
which  nearly  cuts  off  communication  from  the  east.  The  area  of  farming  land  forms 
but  a  small  proportion  of  the  total  surface,  and  even  this  small  area  is  encumbered 
with  woods  of  the  densest  description,  and  therefore  the  lands  are  very  difficult  to  clear. 
But  these  objections  are  of  small  consequence  when  weighed  against  the  corresponding 
advantages.  The  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  abundance  of  its  productions,  the  extent  and 
value  of  the  forests,  the  aids  to  communication  presented  by  the  Coquille  river  and 
Coos  Bay,  the  apparently  exhaustless  beds  of  coal,  and  innumerable  other  resources 
impossible  here  to  enumerate,  outweigh  the  present  difficulties  of  travel,  the  super- 
abundant moisture  of  the  climate  and  the  isolation  of  the  county,  by  a  thousand  fold. 
To  dilate  upon  the  manifold  resources  would  require  a  greater  space  than  we 
have  at  command  ;  and  even  to  barely  mention  the  various  products  and  manufactures 
which  either  form  articles  of  trade  or  soon  will  do  so,  would  be  a  work  of  considerable 
magnitude.  The  two  industries,  the  salmon  canning  trade  and  the  manufacture  of 
lumber,  only  have  reached  a  condition  where  it  is  possible  to  judge  adequately  of  their 
future.  There  seems  no  sufficient  reason  why  the  former  should  not  always  continue, 
with  proper  management,  to  be  at  least  as  productive  as  it  now  is,  and  with  reference 
to  the  lumber  business,  mathematical  demonstrations  are  comi)etent  to  show  how  long 
the  lumber  supply  will  continue,  and  at  what  date  it  may  be  exhausted  and  that  now 
most  important  industry  brought  to  an  end.  Minor  occupations,  such  as  procuring 
match-wood,  staves,  ship  knees,  masts  and  spars,  and  other  articles  of  the  sort,  will 
necessarily  be  of  shorter  continuance.  At  the  rate  at  which  the  myrtle  bottoms  are 
being  denuded  by  their  trees  in  order  to  clear  the  land,  that  timber  will,  in  the  not  dis- 
tantfuture,  become  a  rarity.  The  forests  around  the  bay,  and  throughout  the  county 
in  general,  are  composed  mainly  of  fir,  cedar,  myrtle,  hemlock,  chittim  and  many  less 


498  SOUTHEEN  OKEGON.' 

imjjortaut  species.  The  fir  predominates  largely,  and  about  Coos  Bay  is  found  perhaps 
the  finest  timber  of  the  sort  that  exists  in  the  world.  The  trees  of  a  single  acre  will 
often  yield  200,000  feet  of  excellent  lumber,  of  the  sort  called  in  California  Oregon 
pine,  but  what  is  really  fir.  There  is  a  considerable  quantity  of  cedar  in  all  parts  of 
the  county,  but  around  the  bay  it  is  mostly  of  a  different  species  from  the  Port  Orford 
variety,  which  exists  there  but  sparsely,  though  abundant  enough  in  the  southern  por- 
tion of  the  county.  Thousands  of  acres  of  myrtle  and  maple  of  excellent  quality 
stand  upon  the  low  lands  about  the  bay  and  form  a  small  article  of  present  export, 
being  shipped  in  the  log.  The  total  area  of  timber  on  the  bay  and  the  streams  tribu- 
tary to  it  is  judged  to  be  100,000  acres,  from  which  for  nearly  thirty  years  vast  sup- 
plies have  been  drawn,  but  still  greater  ones  remain. 

In  1878  the  business  men  of  Coos  Bay  published  some  very  valuable  statistics 
relating  to  the  productions  of  that  vicinity,  whose  re-publication  will  serve  to  throw 
light  on  the  resources  of  the  section  and  the  comparative  extent  to  which  they  liave 
been  utilized.  From  them  it  is  ascertained  that  the  total  amount  of  coal  and  lumber 
exported  during  the  years  1871-1878,  and  including  but  two-thirds  of  the  latter  year, 
was  $2,924,000  ;  the  entire  exports  amounting  to  $167,000.  Ship  building  was  repre- 
sented for  the  same  time  by  the  construction  of  forty  vessels,  aggregating  16,350  tons 
burden.  Of  these,  twenty  were  built  at  North  Bend,  total  tonnage  9,955;  thirteen  at 
Marshfield,  tonnage  5,550 ;  six  at  Empire  City,  tonnage  795 ;  and  one  at  Coos  river, 
tonnage  fifty.  The  arrivals  and  departures  of  vessels  aggregated  1,388,  or  at  the  aver- 
age rate  of  180  per  year,  and  their  total  carrying  capacity  was  565,550  tons.  The 
report  referred  to  states  further :  "  The  quantity  of  coal  that  is  conveniently  accessible 
from  the  navigable  waters  of  Coos  Bay,  is  almost  incalculable.  Within  an  area  of  ten 
miles  of  the  bay  there  is  not  less  than  75,000  acres  of  good  coal  land,  which  will  pro- 
duce, from  the  strata  generally  worked,- 450  million  tons  of  coal.  This  is  an  estimate 
of  the  production  of  only  one  seam,  while  in  some  parts  of  this  coal  field  there  are 
known  to  be  as  many  as  six  workable  veins.  The  area  of  lands  known  to  contain  coal, 
but  not  fully  prospected,  lying  in  the  vicinity  of  the  bay,  may  be  estimated  at  250,000 
acres,  and  at  no  great  distance  east,  a  vein  of  eleven  feet  in  thickness  is  reported,  said 
by  persons  who  have  tested  it  to  be  of  a  sujjerior  quality,  suitable  for  the  manufacture 
of  gas,  and  for  use  in  the  foundry  or  forge.  With  such  improvement  of  our  harbor  as 
is  now  contemplated,  the  coal  of  Coos  Bay  can  successfully  compete  with  any  other 
part  of  the  world.  There  are  five  coal  mines  already  opened  on  the  bay,  of  a  total 
capacity  of  about  1,800  tons  daily.  Some  of  these  mines  are  now  suspended  on  account 
of  the  fact  that  the  small  class  of  vessels  that  carry  from  Coos  Bay  cannot  compete  in 
the  price  of  freights  with  the  large  vessels  in  which  the  Puget  Sound  and  foreign  coal 
is  carried,  but  are  ready  to  resume  work  whenever  the  market  improves,  or  when  the 
harbor  is  so  improved  as  to  accommodate  a  larger  class  of  vessels.  There  are  other 
articles  of  export  besides  coal  and  lumber  which  are  exported  regularly  from  Coos  Bay, 
aggregating  many  thousand  dollars  in  value.  Among  these  are  included  lath,  broom- 
handles,  pickets,  ship-knees,  match-wood,  staves,  hides  and  fruit.  In  the  production 
of  such  fruits  as  do  not  require  very  warm  weather  to  mature  them,  our  climate  is 
unequaled.  Though  our  surplus  fruit  crop  has,  in  former  years,  been  mainly  shipped 
while  fresh,  the  introduction  of  evaporators  is  doing  away  with  the  shipment  of  fresh 


coos  COUNTY.  499 

fruits,  and  establishing  a  lucrative  business  in  the  export  of  the  dried  product  of  these 
factories." 

At  present  the  Bay  is  the  scene  of  renewed  activity.  The  ordinary  traffic  upon 
this  body  of  water  is  of  no  small  consequence,  and  five  steamers,  the  3Iyrtle,  Come/, 
Wasp^  Bertha  and  Lulu,  make  regular  and  frequent  trips  between  the  various  acces- 
sible inhabited  localities,  transporting  passengers  and  merchandize,  and  towing  rafts  of 
logs  to  the  various  mills.  The  outlet  for  the  commerce  of  the  bay  is  seaward  to  San 
Francisco.  Communication  with  the  interior  takes  place  by  the  Roseburg  stage  route, 
a  considerable  amount  of  travel  passing  that  way.  By  means  of  the  route  along  the 
ocean  beach  north  of  the  bay,  travelers  find  their  way  to  Gardiner,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Umpqua,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  Scottsburg,  and  finally  by  stage  to  Drain,  on  the 
Oregon  and  California  railroad.  From  Bandon,  on  the  Coquille,  a  wagon  road  pro- 
ceeds southward  along  the  beach  into  Curry  county.  By  these  means  communication 
is  kept  up  with  the  outside  world,  but  it  is  almost  unnecessary  to  say  that  freight, 
except  to  .a  very  limited  extent,  does  not  take  these  routes.  All  articles  of  merchandize 
except  of  home  manufacture,  are  brought  from  San  Francisco,  which  has  a  monopoly 
of  the  trade  of  the  whole  region  lying  west  of  the  Coast  Range. 

The  most  important  innovation  which  has  taken  place  in  Coos  county  since  its 
settlement,  by  Marple,  Harris  and  their  associates,  is  the  inauguration  of  the  Southern 
Improvement  Company's  works.  In  1883  and  1884  this  association  of  capitalists, 
represented  by  Captain  Besse,  of  New  Bedford,  Massachusetts,  as  president,  purchased 
a  large  amount  of  property  in  Coos  county,  consisting  of  6,680  acres  of  land  lying 
near  the  bay,  the  Warwick-Luse  claim  to  the  site  of  Marshfield,  and  certain  property  in 
Empire  City,  including  a  large  amount  of  land  fronting  on  the  bay,  and  the  saw  mill. 
The  grant  of  land  made  to  the  incorporators  of  the  Coos  Bay  Wagon  Road,  so-called, 
was  also  purchased.  These  investments  have  been  made  with  the  ultimate  intention  of 
building  a  railroad  from  the  bay  to  Roseburg.  The  enterprise  meets  with  the  emphatic 
approval  of  the  people  of  Coos,  Douglas  and  Curry  counties,  who  will  mainly  be  ben- 
efited by  it,  and  work  is  expected  to  begin  soon.  The  road  is  to  connect  the  terminus 
on  the  bay  with  Coquille  City,  the  middle  fork  of  the  Coquille,  Camag  valley, 
Looking-glass  valley  and  Roseburg.  Details  of  its  construction,  length,  probable  cost, 
etc.,  are  not  yet  known. 


^i!^^^-;^ 


■^'^^^^^i^ 


APPENDIX 


BIOGRAPHICAL  BREVITIES, 


JACKSON   COUNTY. 


Dr.  G.  H.  Aike.n  :  was  born  in  the  town  of  Ipswick,  X. 
H.,  January  6,  1845  ;  is  one  of  the  leading  physicians  of 
Jacksonville  ;  here  he  arrived  in  1871  ;  in  1879  he  married 
Miss  Ida  Martin  of  this  county.  Their  only  child,  True, 
was  born  March  15,  1882. 

Joseph  Alnutt:  was  born  in  Clay  county,  Missouri,  1833  ; 
he  moved  to  California  in  1S53  and  to  Jackson  county  in 
1874;  Mr.  Alnutl  follows  the  occupation  of  salesman  and  is 
thus  engaged  in  Ashland,  where  he  resides  with  his  family  ; 
in  October,  1882,  he  was  married  to  Nattie  Mitchell.  Chil- 
dren, Wm.  C.  and  Alva  J. 

E.  K.  Anderso.n:  lives  near  Phcenix;  is  afarmer and  miner; 
was  born  in  Monroe  county,  Indiana;  came  to  California  in 
1849;  and  to  this  state  and  county  in  1852;  was  married 
January  9,  1S56,  to  Elizabeth  N.  Myer.  Children,  Laura  V., 
Mary  H.,  George N.,  Lena,  Anna  Bell,  Dora  E.  and  Sarah  E. 

Frederick  Barneberg:  lives  three  miles  north  of  Phoe- 
nix ;  is  a  farmer  ;  was  born  at  Hesse  Casael,  Germany,  1836  ; 
came  to  America  in  1838  and  to  this  county  in  1854  ;  he  was 
married  January  i,  i860,  to  Electa  Norton,  a  native  of 
Iowa.  Children,  Laura  A.,  Sanuitl  P.,  Daniel  H.,  Ida  J., 
Mary  and  John. 

Herman  V.  Batcheller  :  resides  in  Ashland  and  is  a 
saddler  by  trade  ;  he  was   born    in    Madison   county,  N.  V., 

1835,  ^nd  was  married  in  1864  to  Mary  A.  Fuller,  who  died 
soon  after  their  marriage  ;  Mr.  Batcheller  is  a  pioneer  of  1854. 

Geo.  H.  Bavlev  :  is  a  native  of  London;  came  to  Amer- 
icA  in  1S41  at  the  age  of  nine  years;  he  resides  six  miles  east 
iif  Ashland  and  is  engaged  in  farming  and  stock  growing;  Mr. 
liaylty  is  a  pioneer  of  1854;  came  to  county  in  1871;  he  was 
niarrie<l  in  1S62  to  Julian  Johnston.  .Children,  Hattie  and 
Henry. 

Joshua  Beaumoni-;  is  a  resident  of  Ashland  and  a  cloth 
finisher  by  trade;  he  is  a  native  of  Yorkshire,  England;  in 
1855  he  went  to  California  and  came  to  this  state  in  1857. 

Merritt  Bkllincer:  came  to  Oregon  in  1830;  he  is  a 
native  of  Pennsylvania;  born  February,  1833;  is  one  of  the 
earliest  pioneers  of  this  county,  having  first  arrived  in  Ore- 
gon in  1850  and  in  this  county  in  1852,  finally  settling  where 
he  now  lives,  two  miles  east  of  Jacksonville;  in  1861  married 
Caroline  Ritler.  Children,  Lucinda,  Rachel  R.,  Emma  and 
Eva,  twins,  John  and  Francis. 

WELBORiN  Beeson  Esrj.:  whose  residence  is  on  Wagner 
creek   near  Talent,  was  born  in   Lasalle  county,  111.,  July  23, 

1836,  is  only  son  of  John  and  AnnWelborn  Bteson  of  Linceln- 
shire,  England.  At  the  age  of  17  Welborn  came  to  this  state 
and  county  in  rSS?.  In  1S66  he  was  married  to  Mary  C. 
Brophy.  Children,  Ira  E.,  Welborn  J.,  Jessie  E.,  John  D., 
Fannie  E.  and  Annie  M.  John  Beeson,  father  of  our  subject 
is  also  a  native  of  Lincolnshire,  England.  Was  a  man  of  some 
literary  ability  and  somewhat  radical  in  his  view.,. 

Da.n.  L.  Benja.min:  lives  at  Grant's  Pass;  is  dealer  in 
cigars  and  tobacco;  is  also  a  barber;  was  born  in  Stevens 
county,  Illinois,  1854;  came  to  state  1871  and  to  county 
1884;  married  Joana  Brown  .September  26,  1875. 

James  G.  Birdsey:  is  one  among  the  first  births  of  Jack- 
son county,  being  born  April  25,  1854;  is  a  blacksmith  by 
trade  and  carries  on  an  extensive  business  in  Jacksonville, 
where  he  resides;  November  15,  1SS2,  married  .Miss  Katie 
Kuoh.      Child,  Geo.  R.,  born  October  23,  1SS3. 


Wallace  G.  Bishoi':  resides  two  miles  north  of  Phoenix; 
is  a  farmer;  was  born  at  Antwerp,  N.  V.,  July  26,  1830; 
moved  to  Oregon  in  1854;  in  September,  1859  was  married 
to  Miss  Nancy  Scott,  a  native  of  Jefferson  county,  Iowa. 
Children,  Leonora,  Oman  N.,  Ada  J.,  Ida  May,  Alexander 
and  Etta. 

George  Black:  lives  on  Poor  Man's  creek;  is  a  native  of 
county  Down,  Ireland;  came  to  Oregon  in  1851  and  to  Jack- 
son county  in  1852;  is  one  of  the  pioneer  miners  of  this  coun- 
try, which  calling  he  still  pursues. 

R.  L.  Blackwood:  was  born  in  Chester  county,  Pennsyl- 
vania, in  1854;  resides  nine  miles  east  of  Ashland,  where  he 
cultivates  his  farm  and  raises  stock;  in  1877  he  came  to  Cali- 
fornia and  in  1879  moved  to  this  county;  was  married  August 

13,  1881,  to  Lillie  D.  Caldwell.  Child,  Jesse  M.,  born  Sep- 
tember 17,  1882. 

Henry  Bi.echer:  is  a  pioneer  of  Southern  Oregon,  hay- 
ing opened  one  of  the  finest  butcher  shops  in  Jacksonville  in 
1852;  is  a  native  of  Siegen,  West  Phalen,  Prussia,  and  agen- 
tleman  now  nearly  retired  from  active  life,  living  on  his  farnr 
on  Poor  Man's  creek. 

D.  P.  Brittain:  resides  on  Wagner  creek;  post-office  ad- 
dress. Talent;  is  a  farmer  by  occupation;  was  born  June  25, 
1832,  in  Putnam  county,  Indiana;  in  October,  1853,  he  emi- 
grated to  Oregon,  where  he  was  married  April  28,  1859,  to 
Miss  M.  L.  Garrison.   Children,  Louisa  E.,  Ora  A.  and  Ida  B. 

J.  J.  Brown:  was  born  in  Douglas  county  in  1854;  is  now 
a  resident  of  Grant's  Pass;  is  a  farmer  by  occupation.  Child, 
Robert  E.,  bora  April  20,  1S75. 

Henry  R.  Brown:  one  of  the  earliest  pioneers  of  South- 
ern Oregon;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  in  York- 
shire, England,  in  1829;  came  to  this  county  in  1852,  where 
he  was  married  in  i860  to  Martha  Blamsley.  Children,  Jen- 
nie C,  Mary  M.,  Emogene,  H.  Lee,  Olive  and  George  B; 
Lee  and  Olive  are  now  deceased.  Mr.  Brown  has  long  been 
a  resident  of  Butte  creek  and  was  the  founder  of  Browns- 
borough. 

Chas.  W.  BrobacK:  has  heretofore  been  farming  and 
stock  raising;  he  is  now  one  of  the  proprietors  of  Medford,  a 
new  town  soringing  up  on  the  O.  &  C.  R.  R.,  a  few  miles 
north  of   Phoenix;  is  a  Virginian   by  birth,   being  born  July 

14,  1S35;  came  to  California  in  1852  and  to  Oregon  in  1S64; 
was  married  December  25,  1859,  to  Francis  A.  Haigh.  Chil- 
dren, Fernando  W.,  Waher,  Charles.  Clarence.  Ettie  and 
Allie. 

E.  C.  Brookj:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  !■=  a  jeweler  and 
dealer  in  watches,  clocks,  etc. ;  was  born  in  Hancock,  Hills- 
bourough  county,  N.  H.;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1864; 
was  married  in  1849  to  .Miss  Hannah  Porter,  since  deceased: 
was  again  married  in  1S82  to  Mrs.  A.  Hauck.  Children, 
Annie  (deceased),  Lizzie,  Charles  (deceased),  Susie  and  Girtie. 

Wm.  H.  Bri;nk:  resides  in  Phoenix;  is  a  clerk;  was  born 
near  Louisville,  Ky.,  November  13,  1848;  came  to  California 
in  1849,  and  to  Oregon  in  1851;  to  this  county  in  1883. 

James  D.  Buckley:  lives  on. \pplcgate  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1S54;  was  married  June  13, 
1871,  to  Margaret  Riely.  Children,  Rosa  A.,  John  D., 
James,  Francis,  Kale  M.  and  David.  Mr.  Buckley  is  a  native 
of  county  Cork,  Ireland. 

I.  W.  BuRRLss:  resides  in  Ashland:  is  a  >a|.Mm  keeper;  was 


APPENDIX. 


born  in  Monroe  county,  Mo.,  March  30,  1839;  came  to  Ore- 
gon in  1879,  in  which  year,  October  29th,  he  was  married  to 
Jliss  F.   Erb. 

Ghen  S.  Butler:  is  a  merchant  in  Ashland;  was  born 
near  Jacksonville,  Oregon,  January  19,  1854;  was  married 
November  2,  1879,  to  Miss  Alice  Adeline  Barron,  daughter  ol 
H.  F.  Barron,  Esq.,   of  this  county. 

Wm.  Bvr.EE:  one  of  the  largest  land  owners  in  Southern 
Oregon:  resides  near  Jacksonville;  was  born  in  Clark  county, 
Ky.,  1S30:  came  to  Oregon  in  1853  and  to  this  county  in 
1S54:  was  married  in  November,  1854,  to  Miss  Elizabeth  A. 
Walker.  Children,  Kyland  (deceased),  James  \V.,  Florence 
(deceased),  Liilie  M.  (deceased)  Effie,  Jefiferson,  (deceased), 
Frank  E.,  Alexander  M.,  (deceased),  Minnie  I.,  Robert  L., 
Minerva  M.  (deceased). 

RonERT  J.  Cameron:  lives  at  Uniontown;  is  a  farmer; 
was  born  in  Madison  county,  N.  Y.,  1831:  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1S52;  was  married  April  7,  1863,  to  Esther  Le  Fever; 
children,  Franklin,  Helena,  Clara,  Anna,  Bernice  and 
Warren  L. 

Theodoric  Cameron  :  an  early  pioneer  of  this  county 
arrived  in  1S52,  he  has  since  been  engaged  in  the  mercantile 
and  mining  business ;'is  a  native  of  Madison  county,  N.  Y., 
and  now  P.  M.,  at  Uniontown,  on  Applegate  creek,  where  he 
keeps  a  general  merchandise  store. 

John  C.\rd\vei.L:  died  in  Sam's  Valley;  was  a  farmer,  born 
in  Trealds,  Lancashire,  Eng. ;  came  to  state  and  county  i860; 
married  Jan.,  1S56  to  Ellen  Rouark:  children,  Annie  Catherine 
(deceased)  Ellen,  John  A.,  Francis  H.  Martha  (deceased)  Jane 
A.,  Martha,  Edw'ard  R.,  Lawrence  R..  David  S.,  Eva  L.' 

M.\jOR  A.  Carter:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  painter  and  paper 
hanger;  was  born  in  Watertown,  Wisconsin;  came  to  state  and 
county,  1S71;  married  June  29,  1883,  to  Mary  R.  Givan;  they 
have  one  child,  Leman  Claude. 

J.  A.  Carter:  Hves  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  painter;  was  born 
in  Watertown,  Jefierson  county,  Wisconsin;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1864;  was  married  Nov.  27,  1877,  to  Martha 
J.  Helman;  one  child,  Bradford. 

G.  W.  Catching:  lives  in  Grants  Pass;  is  a  carpenter;  was 
born  in  Douglas  county.  Or  ,  1855,  came  to  this  county  18S3; 
married  Oct.,  23,  1879,  to  Lou  Webber;  one  child,  Grace, 
born  Jan.   11,  1881. 

MiLO  C.ATON:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  came  to  this  state  in 
1S52,  and  to  this  county  in  1853;  was  married  November  17, 
1S47,  to  Sybil  A.  Freeman,  Children.  Edwin  B.,  Jennie  O., 
Emma  E.,  Robert  M.  and  Mary  BeU.  Mr.  Catton  participated 
in  the  Indian  wars  of  1S53-6,  and  the  late  civil  war. 

Dr.  J.  H.  Chitwood:  lives  in  Ashland  ;  is  a  physician  and 
surgeon;  was  born  in  Jefferson  county,  Ind. ;  came  to  this  state 
1853  and  to  county  1871  ;  married  May  28,  184S,  to  Sarah  J. 
Gaskill ;  children,  Ella  J.,  Olive  Irene,  Hampton  T.,  Kat'ie 
B.,  Charles  G. 

Wm.  Chambers:  lives  at  Central  Point; is  a  farmer;  was 
born  Scotland  county.  Mo.,  came  to  state  and  county  1852; 
married  Dec.  18,  1862  m  Marv  A.  Wilson;  children,  John  W., 
Ida  M.,  Florence  L.,  A.iv^n'iAvcr.i.vd),  Mary  L.,  Wm.  H., 
Eveline  R.,  Waity  A.,  .iiid  MinriK  M. 

Dr.  J.  A.  Chastain:  lives  in  I'hu-ni.x;  is  a  physician;  was 
born  in  Meggs  county.  East  Tenn.,  April,  1834;  came  to  slate 
in  1875:  was  married  March  i,  1S66.  to  Mary  J.  King;  children, 
Wm.  I.,  Charles,  George  L.,  Cora,  Price,  Adah,  Ann  E., 
Etta,  Claudius  and  Sarah  J. 

Daniel  Chapman:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
grower;  was  born  in  England;  came  to  America  in  1832;  to 
state  and  county  in  1853;  was  married  March  9,  1865,  to 
Sarah  A.  Neil;  children,  Alvin  B.,  Sarah  L.,  Minnie  E., 
Daniel  T.,  Cora  A.,  Elsie  V.,  Homer  R.,  Virgil  H.,  and  Guy. 

Geo.  W.  Cooksey:  lives  near  Central  Point;  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  grower;  born  in  Clinton  county,  Ky. ;  came  to  state 
1S53  and  to  county  1858;  married  Sep.,  21  i86g,  to  Mrs. 
Martha  M.  Roe;  children,  Marcellus,  John  L.,  and  Rosie, 
George,  only  child  of  Mr.  Cooksey,  born  May  21,  1872,  died 
Nov.,  30,  1883. 

Samuel  Colver:  lives  at  Phcenix;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
grower;  was  born  in  Union  county,  Ohio,  Sep.,  10,  1815; 
came  tostate  in  1850,  to  county  in  i85i;married  Nov.  1845  to 
Huldah  Callender,  born  in  Madi.son  county,  Ohio,  1823; 
children,  Luellyn  and  Isabell. 

Louie  Colver:  was  accidentally  shot  in  Feb.  1884,  at 
Phcenix,  his  home;  was  a  farmer;  was  born  in  Union  county, 
Ohio,  March  28,  1847;  came  to  state  in  1850,  to  county  in  1852; 


married  Dec,  31,  1875  to  Miss  Minnie  Doliarhide;  children, 
Lita  and  Loyd. 

M.  Colwell:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  proprietor  of  a 
livery  stable;  was  born  in  Edrigole,  county  Caven,  Ireland; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1S61;  was  married  March  2,  1867 
to  Mary  Corcoran,  who  died  July  23,  18S3. 

Robert  A.  CooK:  lives  on  Foot's  creek;  is  a  miner  and 
farmer;  P.  O.  address  Draper:  was  born  in  Blunt  county,  Tenn., 

1833:  came   to  stale    is;:;.  : ii,:\    invk  married  Feb.,  20, 

1S53  to  Almira   W.  -     ,ih  E.  (dec),   John 

A.,  Wm.  A.,  Tho,,  j  .    I  ;    ,  -    ,;,    E. 

Nicholas  Cooki':  U-..-.  ■  \\i|...\  >:iiii-s:is  a  merchant; 
was  born  in  county  Limerick,  Ireland;  ca'me  to  state  and  county 
in  1853;  was  married  Sep.,  16,  1876,  to  Ann  McNamara,  born 
in  Philadelphia. 

J.  A.  Crain:  lives  near  Medford;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
grower,  was  born  in  Warren  county,  Ohio;  came  tostate  185 1, 
to  county  in  1852,  was  married  in  1861  to  Susannah  Wright: 
one  child,  Elmira  May. 

David  Cronemiller:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  blacksmith; 
was  born  in  Centre  county,  Penn.;came  to  state  and  county 
in  1862:  married  Nov.,  10,  1S61,  to  Annie  Anderson;  children, 
James,  Kate,  Mary  and  Carrie. 

Mrs.  Ki;i  r  ■'  \  11,  <  it-^ip;  lives  on  Poor  Man's  creek;  is  a 
farmer;   1',  '   .  I   ,  ksonviUe;  was  born   in  Monmouth 

countv,    N.     I,;  -late    1864,10    county  1867;  married 

Jan.,  8,  KSiJ:.  in  in,  W  m,  E.,  Thomas  A.,  John  H.,  Elmina 
"v.,  Firmnn  S.,  |.i,i.,h  F,,  Clara  A.,  Charles  J,,  Perry  E., 
Olive  v.,  Ethel  I.  and  Harry  L, 

Thom.as  Curkv:  lives  in  Sam's  Valley;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  near  Louisville,  Ky. :  came  to  stale  1853;  to  county  1854; 
was  married  Oct.,  1S63  to  Mary  E.  Sutton;  children,  Walter 
F.  (dec),  John  W.,  Elfie  L.  (dec),  and  Thomas  F.  (dec.) 

A.  J.  Daley:  lives  at  Eagle  Point;  is  a  miller;  was  born  in 
Erie  county,  Ohio;  came  to  Oregon  1S64,  and  to  county  1871; 
married  Rachel  Peacock  July  X,  1855.  Children,  Rosetla, 
George  W,,  .Mary  and  Sarah  (twins,  and  deceased),  John  H. 
and  Francis  C. 

W.  C.  Dai.ev:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  an  architect  and  builder; 
was  liorn  in  Eiie  county,  Ohio;  came  tostate  1864,  and  to 
countv  in  1S69;  was  married  in  1S68,  to  Levinnia  Hamilton; 
Children,  George  W.,  Leora  E.  and  Irvin. 

John  D.alev:  formerly  a  resident  of  Ashland  and  Eagle 
Point,  now  deceased,  was  born  in  Onondago  county,  N.  V,; 
came  tostate  1S64,  to  county  in  1S67:  ivas  married  to  Lavona 
Carter  in  1832;  was  a  millwright  and  miller.  Children,  Ado- 
niram  J.,  Willard  J.,  Willian,  r    ;  ,;  1  r,l„i„  J. 

Jeptha  Davison:  lives -.  !'    1  nix  :  is  a  lumber- 

man; was  born  in  Perry  cm.  I,     ,         i^',;5;  came  to  State 

and  county  in  1S59;  marriL-l  M;-  In     n  ,n   .Nleppy  in  1864. 

Andrew  Davison:  lives  near  Jack.M.nville;  is  a  farmer; 
born  Fountain  county,  Indiana,  1S32:  came  to  Oregon  1852; 
married  Mary  A.  Wright,  December  25,  1855.  Children, 
Evaline,  Amelia,  Jlary  L.,  William  E.,  Annie  A.  and  Fred- 
erick E. 

RohertH.  Dean:  lives  near  Jacksonville;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Jackson  county  November  10,  1855;  was  married  to 
Miss  Lydia  Tuffs  September  II,  1878;  Children,  James  N. 
and  Robert  A. 

Nathaniel  C.  Dean,  died  near  Jacksonville,  June  4, 
1876;  was  a  farmer;  was  born  at  Whitesborough,  N.  Y., 
came  to  State  and  county  1851;  married  Annie  Huston,  Nov. 
15,  1852.  Children,  Rebecca  (deceased),  Robert  H.,  Brad- 
ford W.,  William  (deceased),  Abigail  S.,  Ralph  F.,  Alice M. 
(now  deceased),  Clara  and  Annie  H.  (deceased). 

Henry'  P  Deskins:  lives  near  Fort  Lane;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office  address  is  \\'illow  Springs:  was  born  in  Taswell 
county,  Virginia;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1858;  was  mar- 
ried March,  1S57,  to  Mary  Hill. 

Fir\R:'i.R  I'lMicK:  lives  near  Grant's  P.ass;  is  a  farmer 
;n,  :  .  :  1  ,.  1;  Lorn  in  Morgan  county,  Ohio,  1S36;  came 
!ii  --in  is^_\  ihl  in  county  1859;  was  married  i860  to  Sarah 
1,1  n  .i-H|.  (  liil, hen,  Edward  D.,  Joseph W.,  Frank  (deceased) 
Hannah.  Harry  and  Ina. 

H.  Clay  Dollarhide:  lives  at  Toll  House  foot  of  Sisk- 
iyou Mts.,  which  place  he  keeps;  postoffice,  Barron;  was 
born  July  16,  1844;  came  to  Cal.,  1861,  to  this  county  in  1869; 
married  Julia  A.  Fendes  in  i87o,  and  May  E.  Shidlerin  1873. 
Children,  Julia  A.,  Florence  M.,  Minnie  S.,  Naney  D.,  Myrtle 
E.  and  H.  Clay  Jr. 

John  W.   Dollarhide:    lives  south  of  Ashland;  is  pro- 


APPENDIX. 


prietor  of  a  saw  mill;  was  born  in  Jasper  county,  Indiana, 
November  13,  1846;  came  to  stale  and  county  in  1869;  was 
married  March  24,  185?,  to  Sarah  J.  Campbell.  Children, 
Elizabeth  (deceased),  Wesley,  Jesse,  Hattie  B.,  Lena  S., 
Marry  B.,  John,  Claude  and  Ole  B. 

Jesse  Doi.i,AKmi>K.;  Hms  in  Ashland;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  raiser;  was  born  in  Wayne  county,  Indiana,  in  1815; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  iS6g;  was  married  1836  to  Miss 
Nancy  Murphy.  Children,  Amanda,  Lavina,  H.  Clay,  John 
W.,  Mary  N.,  Lucy,  Jeniini.i,  I'riscilla,  Matilda  and  L.  Dudly. 

Patrick  Donei;a\:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  blacksmith; 
was  born  in  County  Louth,  Ireland;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1854;  was  married  first  to  Margaret  Lynch  (deceased);  sub- 
sequently to  Maiy  Fieininsj.  Children,  Margaret,  John  (de- 
ceased), Hugh,  Elizabeth,  James  and  Mary  (twins),  Patrick 
(deceased),  and  Annie.  Second  wife's  children,  Kate  (de- 
ceased), Fannie,  Patrick  and  Josephine. 

M.  H.  Drake:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  merchant  and  stock 
grower;  was  born  in  Steuben  county,  New  York;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  i860;  was  married  in  1858,  to  Miss  Mar- 
tha Preater.  Children,  Ida  (deceased),  FredM.,  Belle,  May, 
and  Ella. 

Patrick  Dunn:  lives  east  of  Ashland;  is  a  farmer;  address 
is  Ashland;  was  born  in  Wexford  county,  Ind.,  March  24, 
1824:  came  to  Oregon  and  this  county  in  1851;  was  married 
in  1854  to  Mary  M.  Hill.  Children,  Elizabeth  J.,  Amy  L., 
Ottilia,  George  W.,  and  Mary  E. 

Eber  Emery:  lives  at  Eagle  Point;  is  a  merchant;  was 
born  in  Bedford  county,  Pennsylvania,  July  20,  1819;  was 
married  November  9,  1841,  to  Sophia  Hoover;  they  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1852. 

H.  S.  Emery:  lives  in  Ashland:  is  a  mechanic  and  builder; 
is  a  native  of  Ohio;  came  to  this  place  in  1853;  married  Miss 
A.  Colvig,  March  i,  1873.  Children,  Nina  B.,  Kattie  P., 
Harry  C.  and  Melvin  S. 

Mrs.  E.  R.  Erb:  lives  near  Ashland;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Virginia;  came  to  state  in  1864,  to  county  in  1867; 
maiden  name  was  Elizabeth  K.  Sively.  Children,  Melissa, 
Elizabeth  A.,  Margaret,  Phoebe  J.,  William  W.  and  Frosine. 

J.  S.  EwBANKS:  lives  in  Ashland,  is  a  blacksmith;  was 
born  in  Gallatin  county,  Illinois;  came  to  California  in  i860; 
to  Oregon  1S74:  was  married  to  Miss  Hannah  Sloan,  Decem- 
ber 30,"  iX^i^  <  liiMi.n,  Hnrtense,  Pauline,  Rosamond,  John 
S.,  Janu,  1...  1;.    .1,;,    I,.,  E<igar  C,  Mnry   E.  and  Albert  A. 

E'liWAKii  |..  1  \i;i.iV\:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  merchant;  was 
born  ill  Kock  l,l,uiJ  county,  Illinois;  came  to  state  in  1852;  to 
county  in  iSoS;  was  married  October,  1875,  to  Mary  D.  Colver. 

Damei.  F.  Fisher:  lives  near  Willow  Springs;  isafarmer; 
w.is  born  in  Virginia;  came  to  state  in  1849,  and  to  county  in 
1S50;  was  married  in  1864,  to  Mrs.  Mary  Peninger;  Mrs.  Pen- 
inger  had  ten  children,  only  two  of  whom,  David  and  Wil- 
liam, are  living. 

Heaton  Fox:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  farmer  and  black- 
smith; was  born  near  Bradford,  England,  January  10,  1830; 
came  to  America  in  1S56,  and  to  Oregon  in  i860;  married  lirst 
time,  1S52,  Sarah  A.  I'iokard  (since  deceased);  they  had  four 
cnildren,  viz:  William  C,  Nattic  A.,  Eddy  A.,  and  .Min.ly  A. 
Mr.  Fox  was  again  married  October  i,  1S66,  to  Marietta 
Kennedy.     Children,  Otto  W.,  and  Hiram  N. 

James  D.  Fountain:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  merchant; 
was  born  in  Boone  county,  Missouri;  came  to  Oregon  in  1852 
and  to  this  county  in  1866;  was  married  in  1878,  to  Grace 
Russell.     Children,  Claude  C.  and  Lylse. 

Pleasant  L.  Founiain:  lives  in  Ashland;  was  born  in 
Linn  county,  Oregon,  in  1853;  came  to  this  county  in  1872; 
was  married  September  20,  18S2,  to  Rebecca  Hockersm.th. 
Their  only  child,  Ray,  was  born  October  18,  1883. 

James  J.  Fryer:  lives  at  Eagle  Point;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  was  born  in  Norwich,  England,  October  19, 
1828;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1852;  was  married  March 
5,  1868,  to  Vira  J.  Lewis.  Children,  Arglee,  Gladius  and 
Lelah. 

Samuel  Furry:  lives  near  Phccnix;  isafarmer;  was  born 
in  Schuylkill  county,  Pennsylvania,  February  15,  1822:  came 
to  stale  and  county  in  i860;  was  married  in  1853,  to  Amelia 
Barneberg.  Children,  Enoch  F.,  Donna  M.,  Leona  G.,  Ed- 
mona  M.  and  Arthur  S. 

I.  Cornelius  Gage:  lives  near  Central  Point;  is  a  farmer; 
was  born  in  Polk  county,  Oregon,  in  1852;  came  to  this 
county  in  1867;  was  married  August,  1876,  to  Mary  Cromer. 
Children,  Gilliam  P.  and  Sarah  G. 


K.  H.  Gabbert:  lives  at  Grant's  Pass;  is  proprietor  of 
drug  store;  was  born  September  22,  1856;  in  Lane  county, 
Oregon;  came  to  county  in  1883;  married  Dec.  25,  1878,  to 
Kittie  Wiley.     Only  child,  Effie. 

Robert  Garrett:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  contractor;  was 
born  in  Benton  county.  Arkansas,  March  1840:  came  to  state 
in  1853,  to  county  in  187 1;  was  married  October  20,  1877,  to 
Miss  .Sarah  E.  Thornton.     Children,  Frank, Gracie  and  Laura. 

O.  O.  Ganiard:  lives  in  Sam's  valley;  is  a  merchant;  was 
born  in  Bristol  New  York,  in  1832;  came  to  state  in  1852;  to 
county  in  1872;  was  married  July  5,  1858,  to  Lucinda  Gani- 
ard. Children,  Lottie,  Fred  and  Oscar;  the  two  boys  are 
deceased. 

Dr.  E.  p.  Geary:  lives  in  Medford;  is  a  physician  and 
surgeon;  was  born  in  Brownsville,  Oregon,  April,  1859;  came 
to  Jackson  county  in  1882. 

James  F.  Gregory:  lives  on  Sticky  Flat;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office  address  is  Central  Point;  was  born  in  Carroll 
county,  Tennessee;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1872;  was 
married  in  1S65,  to  Louisa  Cochran.  Children,  J.  Frank,  El- 
mira,  Lillie,  Jessie,  Josephine,  Tamer  and  infant. 

W.M.  J.  Gregory':  lives  on  Sticky  Flat;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  jasper  county,  Tenn.,  1836;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1864;  was  married  November  24,  1859,  to  Elizabeth  March. 
Children,  Lucinda,  Jennie  (dec),  Henry  L.,  Lavma  (dec), 
Wm.  W.,  Mary  E.  and  James  F. 

Absolf.m  F.  Giddings:  is  a  farmer;  Hves  in  Ashland;  was 
born  in  Ashtabula  county,  Ohio,  in  1833;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1853;  was  married  July  3,  1859,  to  Eliza  E.  Million. 
Children,  Henry  and  Millie  M. 

A.  V.  Gillette:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  carpenter;  was 
born  in  Harlford,  Connecticut;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1857;  was  married  March,  1855,  to  Martha  L.  Hill.  Chil- 
dren, Charles  H.,  Edgar  L,  Almon  C,  Carrie,  Effie  E., 
George  V.  and  Hugh  H. 

H.  A.  Grigsry:  lives  at  Grant's  Pass;  is  a  liquor  dealer; 
was  born  in  Jersey  county,  Illinois;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1859;  married  Dec.  1855,  to  Ann  M  Pearce.  Children,  Flor- 
ence A.,  Ora  X.,  La  Forest  C,,  Basil,  Durthulia  L.,  Kate, 
(deceased),  Caddie  C.  (deceased),  Sarah  A.  (deceased),  Owen 
P.  and  OIlie  M. 

Wm.  Harris:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  butcher,  was  born  in 
Hardin  county,  Ky.,  1825;  came  to  Cal.  in  1852,  to  this  state 
and  county  in  1877;  was  married  in  1849,  to  Eliza  Chenoweth; 
children,  John  C,  Rhoda  R.,  Sarelda,  Lorina,  Lizzie,  Alice 
C.  and  Charlie  A. 

Samuel  Harkness:  lives  at  Grant's  Pass;  is  a  farmer: 
was  born  in  Salein,  New  York,  1818;  came  to  state  1852  and 
to  county  in  1856;  was  married  first  time  to  Marietta  Chap- 
man (deceased),  in  1842;  second  time  to  Mrs.  Susan  Davis,  in 
October,  1877.  His  children,  Morris  M.,  Homer  D.,  Francis 
M.,  Samuel  E  and  Ida  M.;  hers,  Frank,  Lou,  Gain  (de- 
ceased), Knmici,  Mcllie,  David  G.,  Belle,  Loren  and  Susie  L. 

Bfm  \m!  .  II  \i  .hiND:  lives  in  Rock  Point;  is  a  merchant; 
bom    I    I      V  .  Va.;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  county 

in  IS;;:       •  i      li  1868  to  Hattie  T.  Beach. 

A.  I',  llwiM  >-!':  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  lawyer:  was  born 
in  Walcoit,  Wayne  county,  N.  Y.;  came  to  slate  and  county 
in  1877;  was  married  in  1852  to  Elizabeth  Schermerhorn  (de- 
ceased); was  subsequently  married  to  Mrs.  Emma  Howard. 
First  wife's  children,  Albert  E.,  Sarah  J.  and  John  M.;  .sec- 
ond wife's,  Grace,  Frank,  Kate,  Nellie,  Thomas  and  Rob- 
ert. 

John  E.  Harvey:  lives  in  Central  Point;  is  a  hotel  keeper: 
was  born  in  Lincolnshire,  England;  came  to  stale  and  county 
in  1867;  was  married  to  Mrs.  Aiilelta  L.  Buzan  injure,  1872. 
Children,  Margery  and  Addie  Buzan,  and  John  A.  and  Wil- 
liam H.  Harvey. 

Mrs.  Martha  W.  Hargadine:  daughter  of  James  Kilgore, 
resides  in  Ashland;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower,  was  born  in 
Stark  county,  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1854,  and  was  married  in 
1856  to  R.  B.  Hargadine  (deceased);  children,  Chas.  H., 
Mariett.a,  Elizabeth  E.,  George  R.  and  John  F. 

James  W.  Hayes:  lives  in  Rock  Point;  is  a  blacksmith; 
was  born  in  Barren  county,  Ky.,  1S42;  came  to  slate  in  1854, 
to  county  1868;  married  first  Jime  April  19,  1865,  to  Ellen 
Wallace  (deceased);  one  child,  Ellen  May.  Married  second 
lime  Dec.  22,  1870,  to  Sophrona  J.  Cook:  children,  Elizabeth 
N.,  Lillie,  James  W.,  John  .\L,  Carrie  and  Hattie. 

Newton  Haskins:  lives  at  Sterling  creek  post  office 
Jacksonville;  is  a  miner;  born  in  Knox  county.  111.;  came  to 


state  in  1854,  to  comity  in  1S60;  married  October   15,  1S77,  to 
Arzie  Saltmarsli;  children,  Lavina,  Edna,  and  Wallace. 

Jeremiah  Heckethorn:  lives  on  Butte  creek;  post 
office,  Brownsborough:  is  a  larjiier  and  stock  grower;  born  in 
Wayne  county,  Ohio;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1854; 
married  June  1851,  to  Annie  B.  Gressley;  children,  JIary  C, 
Annie  C",  Ida  A.,  Dora,  George,  Martin,  (Henry  and  Etta 
twins)  Emma,  Elsie,  Florence  (deceased),  Francelia  and  Wil- 
liam. 

G.  T.  Hershbarger:  lives  in  Central  Point;  is  a  specula- 
tor and  farmer;  was  born  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  W.  T. ;  came  to 
Oregon  in  1857,  and  to  this  county  in  1877;  was  married 
August  6,  1877,  to  Olive  Kendig. 

H.  \".  Helms:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  liquor  dealer;  was 
born  in  Holstein,  Germany,  August  18,  1832;  came  to  this 
state  .and  county  in  1S56;  was  married  April  26,  1862,  to  Au- 
gusta Engelbrecht.  children,  Lizzie,  Edward  H.,  Minnie, 
(deceased),  Amanda,  Matilda,  Bertha,  Emma  E.,  Annie  and 
Henry  H. 

A.  D.  Hellm.\N:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  farmer;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1852;  was  born  April  10,  1824,  in  Ashland 
county,  Ohio;  w^as  married  April  23,  1849,  to  Martha  J. 
Kanagy.  Children,  Almeda  S.,  John  K.,  Marv  E..  Martha 
J.,  A.  Lincoln,  B.  F.  Butler,  U.  S.  Grant  and  Otis  O. 

John  S.  Herren:  lives  near  Ashland;  is  a  stock  grower; 
WdS  born  in  Hopkins  county,  Kentucky,  November  15,  1S27, 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1S55;  was  married  in  1S53,  to 
Nancy  C.  Walker.  Children,  William  F.,  John  W.,  Mary  A., 
David  C.  Edward  W.,  .A-nnelta  M.,  Enima  G.  Carrie  and 
Freddy. 

Charles  B.  H|(;h:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  teamster;  was 
born  in  Montgumeiy  county.  111.,  in  1S46;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1S7S;  married  Feb.  22,  T870,  to  Carrie  Bradford. 
Children,  .Marion  G.,  Lewis  N.,  Charles  F.,  Jesse  L.  and 
Daisy  A. 

Desto.n'  High;  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  saloon  keeper;  was 
born  November  9,  1849,  in  Montgomery  county.  111.;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1877;  was  married  in  l'S68  to  Luella 
Cooley.  Children,  Ernest,  Lester.  LiHan  and  Luty.  Mr. 
High  was  again  married  in  1879,  to  .Miss  Laura  Barneberg. 
Her  children,  Mary  E.  and  Lizzie. 

R.  F.  High:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  barber,  was  born  in 
Montgomery  county.  111.,  May  14,  1852;  came  to  state  and 
county  1877;  was  married  to  Laura  A.  Thompson,  Aug.,  24, 
1879:  children,  Herbeil  X.  and  Harrv. 

Hansell  C.  Hill:  lixc.  in  A4il,in,l:  i.  a  furniture  dealer; 
was  born  in  Charlciton.  .\Ia.-.>aLliu>cll>.  in  1821;  came  to 
California  in  1S49,  and  to  this  state  and  county  in  1854;  was 
married  in  1S44  to  Mary  C.  Nowell.  Children,  William, 
Annie  M.,  Charles,  George  and  Susan. 

John  Holton:  lives  on  Wagner  creek  post  office  Talent;  is 
a  farmer;  born  in  Westminster  Vt.,  July  6,  i8l7;came  to  state 
and  county  in  1853:  was  married  April  2,  1848,  to  Mrs. 
Hannah  C.  Chandler;  one  child,  Ira  P. 

Jasper  Houck:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  hotel  keeper;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1852;  was  married  January  1857,  to 
Johannah  Horn.  Children,  Teresse  (deceased),  Henry  (de- 
ceased), Jesse  J.,  Grace  and  Frederick. 

S.  Houser:  lives  at  Grant's  Pass;  is  a  railroad  employe; 
born  near  Mogodore,  Pennsylvania;  came  to  state  in  1864;  to 
county  in  1883;  married  December  19,  1S79,  to  Ella  Cham- 
berlain.    Child,  Ella. 

J.  W.  Howard:  lives  at  Grant's  Pass;  is  a  merchant;  was 
born  in  Warren  county,  Kentucky,  in  1851;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1877;  was  married  January  1,  1884,  to  Eudora 
Godfrey. 

E.  B.  Hunsaker:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  merchant;  was  born 
in  Lane  county,  Oregon;  caine  to  this  county  in  1882:  was 
married  Feb.  19,  1879,  to  Cecelia  L.  Parker;  one  child,  Carrie. 

J.  B.  R.  HuTCHiNGS:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  gentjral  trader; 
was  born  in  Madison  county,  Mo.,  1840;  came  to  state  in  1877; 
to  county  in  1878;  was  married  in  1S72  to  Martha  Patton. 

J.  W.  Ingram:  lives  at  WilloW'  Springs;  is  a  miner;  was 
born  in  Cole  county.  Mo.,  in  1837,  came  to  state  and  county 
in   1870. 

F.  B.  INI.OW:  lives  in  Eagle  Point;  is  a  merchant;  was  born 
in  Bourbon  county,  Ky.;  came  to  state  in  1854;  to  county  in 
1875;  married  December  1858  to  Matilda  Zumwalt  (deceased); 
children,  Isabel  (deceased),  Frank  B.,  John  H.,  Nadis  A. 
and  Ada  A. ;  was  again  married  to  Mrs.  Ellen  Morrison;  one 
child,  Freddie  E. 


George  W.  Isaacs:  lives  on  Little  Butte  creek;  post-office 
address,  Brownsborough;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  born 
in  Lincoln  county,  Tenn.,  1831;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to 
county  in  1858;  was  married  December,  1S70,  to  .Mary  A. 
Sevedge.  Children,  George  W.,  Mary  E.,  John  S.  (deceased) 
William  T.  and  Charles  W. 

Abraham  S.  Jacobs:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  present 
sheriff;  by  trade,  stonemason;  born  in  Johnson  county,  Ind.; 
came  to  state  in  1S65  and  to  county  in  1867;  married  March 
28,  1855,  to  Rebecca  E.  Mathes  (deceased);  was  again  mar- 
ried December  2,  1876,  to  Mrs.  May  Smith.  Children,  New- 
ton A.,  Lanes L.,  John  \V.  and  Mary  F. 

Dr.  Will  Jackson:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  dentist; 
was  born  near  Huntsville,  Mo.;  came  to  state  in  1866,  to 
county,  1869;  was  married  April  27,  1871,  to  Hattie  Thomp- 
son.    Children,  Jennie,  Jessie,  Will  Ray  and  Ruth. 

Stoughton  p.  Jones:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  saloon 
keeper;  was  born  in  Toncanic,  Penn.,  May  25,  1S31;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1856;  was  married  October  26,  1S66,  to 
Elizabeth  V.  Twogood.     Children,  Carrie  B.  and  Lulu  T. 

Georc.e  R.  Justus:  hves  at  Grant's  Pass;  is  a  livery 
keeper;  was  born  in  Jackson  county,  Iowa,  1852;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1854;  married  November  8,  1881,  to 
Sarah  J.  McKnight. 

Dr.  Geo.  Kahler:  lives  at  Phoenix;  is  a  physician;  was 
born  in  Morgan  county,  Ohio,  February,  1843;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1852;  was  married  October,  1S67,  to  Sylva 
Oglesby.     Children,  Orange,  Earl,  Albion,  Fred  and  Linn. 

Charles  \V.  Kahler:  lives  in  Jack.sonviile;  is  a  lawyer; 
was  born  in  Morgan  county,  Ohio,  November  4,  1840;  ar- 
rived in  state  and  county  October,   1852. 

Chas.  Keeton:  lives  in  Jacksonville:  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Cass  county.  Mo.;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1878; 
married  November,  iSSi,  to  Ada  Killahan.     Child,  infant. 

W.  W.  Kentnor:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  wagon  maker; 
was  born  in  Illinois,  November  27,  1828;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  18^5:  was  married  October  20,  1861,  to  Sarah  -•\. 
Million.      Childicn,  Ma  F.,  Johnnie  and  Albert. 

T.  J.  Kknm\:  livc^  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  saddler  and  har- 
ness maker:  w.Ts  liorn  in  Jackson  county,  Oregon;  was  mar- 
ried December  22,  1S7S,  to  Rosa  Ulrich.  Children.  Daniel, 
Katie  J.  and  Christian  J. 

William  G.  Kenney:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  stage 
driver;  was  born  in  Jackson  county,  Oregon. 

T.  T.  McKfnzie:"  Hves  in  Jacksonville;  was  born  in  Inver- 
nesshire,  Scotland;  came  to  state  in  1855;  to  county  in  1S65; 
married  March  27,  1866,  to  Rebecca  Hopwood.  Children, 
May,  (deceased),  Percy,  Selina,  Thomas,  Monroe,  William 
and  Charles  P. 

William  R.  Kincaid:  lives  near  Ashland;  is  a  former 
post-master  of  Ashland;  was  born  April  6,  1843,  in  Augusta 
county,  Va. ;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1864;  married  June, 
20,  1869,  to  Ophelia  J.  Evans.  Children,  William  D.,  May 
Ann,  Alice  M.,  EttieF.,  Archie  R.,  Daisy  O.  and  Martha  J. 
Simon  Klingle:  lives  on  Little  Butte  creek;  post-office  is 
Brownsborough;  was  born  in  Pike  county,  111.;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1866;  married  1868  to  Anna  M.  Sullivan. 
Children,  Katie  (deceased),  Charles  and  Ellen. 

C.  K  Klum.  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  dealei  in  saddlery  and 
harness,  was  born  m  Franklin  count),  Ind  ;  came  to  state  m 
1847  and  to  count)  in  1853;  was  mairied  lune,  1S75,  to  Lu 
cinda  H  Finlt).  Children,  Hypatia.  Chailes  W  and  Blaine 
C.  Kleinhammer  lises  neai  Ph  it.ni\  i^iliimei;  was 
born  in  Hano\er,    German),  OctuKi      1     in,  i  to  state 

and  county  in  i860;  married  in    I  11  1  1S05, 

to  Francis  A.  Saltmarsh.      Children  imc  M  , 

Arthur  S  ,  Mary  I.,  Augusta,  MazLit  W  1 

Frank  Krause.  lues  in  Jackson\ille,  is  a  piintei  and 
telegraph  opeiator;  was  boin  m  Burlington,  Iowa,  March  5, 
1851;  come  to  state  and  county  in  i860;  married  March  5, 
1879,  toMissMollie  S.  Bilger.  Children,  Ella  L.  and  Frank  O. 
Kasper  Kum.i:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  hardware  mer- 
chant; was  born  in  Canton  (ilarus,  Switzerland;  was  mairied 
December  27,  1857,  to  Lienor  J.  Newcomb.  Children, 
Ellen  Watson,  Henry,  Minerva  (deceased),  Francis  (deceased), 
Kasper,  Lulu  and  \'aline. 

Geo.  W.  Lance:  lives  at  the  mouth  of  Foot's  creek;  post- 
office  address  Rock  Point;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was 
born  in  White  county,  Tenn.,  i\Iarch  11,  1S32;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1870;  was  married  October,  1870,  to  -Mrs. 
Esther  Fitzgerald,  daughter  of  John  Robb.     Children,  George 


nd  marriage,  William.  Lillie  and 


\V.  and  Francis  M.;  by 
Mary. 

William  T.  Leever:  lives  near  Central  Point;  is  a 
farmer;  was  born  in  Clermont  county,  Ohio,  February  27, 
1829;  came  to  state  in  1853  and  to  county  in  1854;  marr  ed 
January  I,  1857,  to  Elizabeth  M.  Constant.  Children,  Wm. 
C,  Lavinia  Ida,  EdmondsonC,  D.  Carlos,  Thomas,  Ada,  Lu- 
cinda,  Nellie  and  Lizzie. 

James  R.  Little:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  dealer  in  tobaccos, 
confectionery,  etc.;  born  in  Jacksonville. 

David  Lin.N:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  contractor  and 
furniture  manufacturer;  was  born  in  Guernsey  county,  Ohio, 
October  28,  1826;  came  to  state  in  1851  and  to  county  in 
1852;  married  Anna  S.  Huffman  August  30,  i860.  Children, 
Corinne,  Maggie,  William,  Fletcher,  George,  Mary  and  James. 
Tobias  L.  Linkwiler:  lives  on  Antelope  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
post  office.  Eagle  Point;  born  in  Rockbridge  county,  Virginia; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1S52;  married  in  1859  to  Mrs. 
Hannah  Riley.  Children,  George,  William,  Joseph,  James, 
Ellen  and  Catherine. 

Charles  W.  Logan;  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  photographer; 
was  born  in  Davenport,  Iowa;  came  to  state  in  1868  and  to 
county  in  1871;  married  September,  1879,  '"  Hattie  M. 
Reeser.     Child,  Blanche  D. 

E.  H.  LOFFTUS:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  stock  raiser;  was 
born  in  Christian  county,  Kentucky  in  1827;  came  to  state  in 
1853  and  to  county  in  1859;  was  married  in  1852  to  Elizabeth 
Banta.  Children,  Mary  F.,  Columbus  C,  Edward  H.,  John 
W.  and  Oscar  D. 

Patrick  Lvttleton:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  gardener  and 
horticulturist;  was  born  in  Pennsylvania  June  8,  1837;  came 
to  the  state  and  county  in  1879. 

G.  H.  Lynch:  lives  on  Wagner  creek;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
offtce.  Talent;  born  in  Brunswick  county,  Vh'ginia;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1S69;  married  November  12,  1866,  to  Rosa 
Lynxwiler.  Children,  W.  M.  F.,  Mary  E.,  Lillie  R.,  Clara 
E.,  Travis  H.,  Harry  S.,  and  Warren. 

Carrel  B.  Matney:  lives  on  Applegate  creek;  is  a  farmer 
and  blacksmith;  was  born  in  Redford  county,  Tenn.;  came  to 
state  in  1850,  to  county  1852;  was  married  July  24,  1859,  t» 
Margaret  A.  Maupin;  children,  Samuel  (deceased),  Jefferson 
D.,  Alvis  M.,  Carrel  B.  (deceased),  Nancy,  Martha  J.,  Thomas 
F.,  .Mary,  William  W.,  George  W.,  John  N.,  May,  Isaac  D., 
Millie,  Icy  B.  and  infant. 

John  .Mathews;  lives  at  Eagle  Point;  is  a  farmer;  was  born 
in  Montgomery  county,  X.  C,  March  2,  1816;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1S53;  wa^  married  October  1S37,  to  Eliz.ibeth 
Wooley;  children,  Willi.ini  (deceased),  Drucilla,  Millie,  Dud- 
ley P.,  America,  Ruth.  Hczekiah,  Juda  R.,  Mary  E.,  Elizabeth 
.1.  (deceased),  .Martha,  Maria.  Green  B.,  Champion  G.  and 
Minerva  (deceased). 

CoL.  Reuben  F.  Maury:  lives  near  Jacksonville,  is  a 
farmer,  was  born  in  Bath  county,  Ky.  ;canie  to  state  and  county 
in  1852;  was  married  December  14,  1856,  to  Elizabeth  Cham- 
bers: children,  L.  P.,  G.  L.,  Mary  P.,  H  C,  Sallie  A.  and 
Effie  (deceased).  Mrs.  Maury  died  August  27,  1878.  Col. 
Maury  was  in  Mexican  war  in  1846  and  promoted  during  war 
to  Second  Lieutenant.  In  l86l  raised  first  regiment  Oregon 
cavalry." 

Simon  McCallister:  lives  at  Soda  Springs  on  Butte 
creek,  is  a  school  teacher;  post  office  Brownsborough;  was 
born  in  Sangamon  county.  111.,  i83l;caine  to  state  in  1852, 
to  county  in  1861;  was  married  September  21,  1853,  to  Eliza- 
beth Ogle; children,  Mary  E.,  Celia  A.,  James  A.,  John  G., 
Elizabeth  H.,  Minnie  G.  and  Joseph  M. 

C.  C.  McClendon:  lives  in  Sam's  Valley;  is  a  farmer;  post 
office  Sam's  Valley,  was  born  in  Bledsaw  county,  Tenn.,  1832, 
came  to  state  in  1852,  to  county  in  1864;  married  October  6, 
1S58,  to  Susan  Brown:  children,  William  P.  (deceased),  Ben- 
jamin F.  (deceased).  Mary  1.,  Joseph  B.,  .Samuel  W.,  Susan- 
nah (deceased:,  John  II.,  Rosa  .\I.,  Lillie  B.  and  Nora  B. 

John  Wilmk.k  .\IcCri.i  v:  formerly  of  Jacksonville,  now  of 
Joseph,  Oregon,  is  a  physician,  was  born  in  New  Brunswick: 
came  to  state  in  1851,  and  to  county  1852;  was  married  June 
28,  1848,  to  Miss  Janet  Mason,  of  AUowa,  Scotland;  children, 
James  C,  Mollie  Bell,  (Merretl  died  January  1SS4),  and  Issic. 
J.  P.  McDaniel:  lives  in  Jacksonville:  is  a  miner;  came  to 
s;.-ite  in  1S52,  and  to  county  in  1854;  was  married  November 
20,  1872,  to  Catherine  Parker;  children,  Fred,  James,  Ida, 
Ella,  (Eddie  and  Emma  twins). 
James  .McDonoi'ch:  lives  near  Willow  Springs;  is  a  farmer 


and  carpenter;  was  born  in  Greene  county,  Penn.,  Jime  8,  1826: 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1852;  was  married  August  18, 
1855,  to  R.  M.  Kahler;  children,  Sarah  C.  (deceased),  Carlos, 
Helen,  Harriett,  John  W.,  Martin  C.  and  George. 

John  W.  McKay:  lives  near  Willow  Springs;  is  a  farmer; 
was  born  in  Iredelle  county.  North  Carolina;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1852:  was  married  December  I,  1861,  to  Sarah 
A.  Slagle;  children,  Robert  L.  (deceased),  Martha  A.  (de- 
ceased), Hughey,  Nancy  C.  George  G.  and  John  H. 

Robert  McLean:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  Presbyterian  min- 
ister; was  born  Oneida  county,  N.  Y.,  February  22,  1846; 
came  to  state  ,!i,  !  -  ■'.:r\  m  1S83;  married  August  29,  1877,  to 
Lucy  R.  Noi  n   :        :    I     1.   I :  iv  .McGregor,  and  Robert  N. 

Mrs.  Ari'    I  -'  1  \n:  lives  near  Central  Point;isa 

farmerpostolli.  r  J,;,  i.,  ii.illc;  was  born  in  Champagne  county, 
Ohio  in  1S30;  came  10  state  1851,  and  to  county  in  1856; 
Artinecia  (Riddle)  Merriman  was  married  February  22,  1848, 
to  James  Chapman  deceased;  children,  John  W.,  Lucinda  J., 
George  F.,  Laura  A.,  Maria  E.,  Annie  A.,  Isaac  A.,  Mary  B., 
Isabel,  Effie,  Josephine  and  \Villie;  Mr.  Merriman  had  one 
daughter  Anletta  L.  ;Mrs.  Merriman  has  buried  four  children, 
Chas.  H.,  Walter,  Prudence  and  Winaford. 

William  H.  Merriman:  died  in  Jackson  county,  Sep- 
tember 16,  1877;  was  a  cabinet  maker  and  joiner;  was  born 
in  Kentucky;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1856; 
was  married  February  10,  1853,  to  Mrs.  A.  Chapman. 

H.  C.  Messenger:  lives  in  Ashland;  proprietor  of  saw 
mill;  was  born  in  Chenango  count)',  N.  Y. ;  came  to  state  in  1858 
and  to  county  in  1879;  married,  July  5,  1882,  to  Bessie  L. 
Marsh.     Only  child,  Walter  J. 

Bennett  Million:  lives  at  Ashland;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  .\dair  county,  Ky.,  February  12,  1812;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1854;  was  married  March  24,  1841,  to  Miss 
Armilda  Beam.  Children,  Eliza  E.,  John  B.,  Sarah  A., 
Laura  J.,  Martha,  Kizzie  A.,  Phebe  A.,  Jackson  M.,  Caetha  E., 
William  B.,  Joseph  T.  and  Charles  C,  all  living  in  the  same 
vicinity. 

John  S.  Miller:  lives  on  Applegate  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
born  in  Clay  county.  Mo.,  in  1824;  came  to  stale  in  1846  and 
to  county  in  1852;  was  married  May  27,  1852,  to  L.  Mar- 
garet Griffin.  Children,  Josephine,  Nancy,  Richard  (de- 
ceased), Louisa,  John,-  Anistasia,  Burrel,  Lydia  (deceased) 
and  Walter.     Mr.  Miller  was  in  the  Cayuse  war. 

CoL.  J.  N.  T.  Miller:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  grower;  born  in  Kentucky,  1826;  came  to  state  in 
1845  and  to  county  in  1854;  married  August,  1S52  to  Bessie 
H.  Awbery.     . 

John  Miller:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  gunsmith  and 
hardware  merchant;  born  in  Barbaren,  Germany;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  i860;  married  March,  1854,  to  Mary 
Shmutz.  Children,  Melia,  Sarah  M.,  Philip,  Katie,  John, 
Mollie  and  Henry. 

David  H.  Miller:  lives  at  Medford;  is  a  merchant;  was 
born  in  Jefferson  county,  Iowa,  May  10,  1859;  came  to 
county  in  1875;  was  married  July  2,  1871,  to  Elmira  Brons. 
Benjamin  F.  Miller:  lives  near  Rock  Point;  is  a  horti- 
culturist; was  born  in  Hamilton  county,  Ohio,  July  31,  1832; 
came  to  Oregon  in  1854;  married  May  14,  1857,  to  Martha 
J.  Sutton.  Children,  Mary  E.,  Benjamin  C,  John  T.  and 
Maggie  A. 

A.  S.  Moon:  lives  in  Sam's  valley;  is  a  merchant;  born  in 
Susquehanna  counry,  Penn.;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1859;  married  April  11,  1865,  to  Melissa  Cox.  Children, 
Laura,  Grant  (deceased),  Charles,  Ralph,  Newman  and  Tru- 
man (twins),  Beulah,  George,  Andrew,  Martha  and  Clara 
(deceased). 

Raphael  Morat:  lives  near  Jacksonville;  is  a  grape  and 
wine  glower  and  distiller;  was  born  near  Pyrenees  mountains, 
France;  came  to  California  in  1859  and  to  state  and  county 
in  1S70. 

Samuel  Morgan:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  blacksmith;  wa.s 
born  in  Stark  county,  Ohio,  August  23.  1832;  came  to  state 
September  15,  1850;  to  county,  1851;  was  married  first  to 
Miss  Wells,  (deceased),  and  wa.s  again  married  to  Martha 
Ilendrix  in  1878.  Children,  William,  William,  Francis, 
James,  Myrtle  B.,  John  B.  and  S.amucl. 

Edwin  Morgan:  lives  at  Phoenix;  is  proprietor  of  a 
saloon  and  livery  stable;  was  born  in  Little  Dean.  Gloucest- 
ershire, Eng.;  came  to  stale  and  county  in  1S52:  marrie<l, 
1857,  to  Lucrelia  Oden.  Children,  Sarah  I",..  Mary  C, 
Charles  D.,  Walter  S.,  Richard  M.,  Mark  P.  and  William  II. 


APPENDIX. 


Lorenzo  I).  Montcomery:  lives  in  Ashland;  was  bncn 
in  Hancock  county,  Ind.,  August  l8,  1823;  came  to  Califor- 
nia in  1849,  'o  state  in  1854,  and  to  county  in  1858. 

P)nLi.iP  Mullen:  lives  in  Phoenix;  is  a  miner  and 
assayer;  born  in  Sullivan  county,  N.  V.,  June  14,  1839; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1S75. 

Max  ilULLER:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  merchant;  born 
in  Reckendorf,  Germany;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1S55; 
married  Jmie  II,  186S,  to  Louise  Hesse.  Children,  Ike, 
Emily,  PJetla.  Will  and   Sophie. 

Gran\ii.le  Xavlok:  lives  near  Jacksonville;  is  a  farmer; 
was  born  in  Jackson  county,  Ind.,  Feb.  16,  1822;  came  to 
state  in  iS5i;"to  county  in  1853;  was  married  June,  1848,  to 
Minerva  Seris.  Children,  Adolphus,  Malvina,  Melvin,  Net- 
tie, Alta,  Minerva  and  Ida. 

Claiborn  Xeil:  lives  near  Ashland;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Claiborn  county.  East  Tenn. ;  came  to  state  in  1853, 
and  to  county  in  1854;  was  married  Dec.  5,  1839,  to  Louisa 
C.  Gibson.  Children,  James  R.,  John  H.,  William  L.,  Sarah 
A.,  Leander  A.,  Robert  P.,  Louisa  C,  Thomas  S.,  Tennessee 
v.,  Mary  A.,  J.  C.  and  Gertrude. 

Leander  A.  Neil:  lives  near  Ashland:  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  raiser;  was  born  in  Tennessee;  came  to  state  in  1853, 
and  to  countvin  1854:  was  married  Nov.  14,  1880,  to  Augusta 
R.  Sisson.     Children,  Elmore  S.  and  Ellis. 

M.  NiCKKLSON:  lives  at  Ashland;  is  a  blacksmith;  was 
born  in  Holland  county,  Norway,  May  26,  1831;  came  to 
America  July,  1S49,  and  to  Oregon  in  1854. 

J.  H.  Oatman:  lives  near  Phrenix;  is  a  farmer;  was  born 
in  Ogle  county.  111.,  Jan.  28,  1849;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1853;  was  married  Dec.  31.  1875,  to  Priscilla  Dollarhide. 
Children,  Olive  1.  and  Te'=sic. 

Bartleit  Ohenchain:    live-    near   Central    Point;    is  a 


farmer  and  stock  grower 
came  to  state  and  counl\ 
Nancy  Morse.  Childrn 
ram  N.(decea5ed),  Eli/V 
Silas  H.,  .Sarah  M.,  X,i 
John  Orth:  lives  in 
in  Bavaria,  (jermany,  M 
county 


iH.rnin  Bantontot  county,  Va. ; 
S()2;   m.iiried  June  23,    1850,  to 
\,     ieeeased),  Alice  I.,  Hi- 
i  :-ed),  Maldoren,  Jennie, 

,  1.  '  L.  and  George  E. 
■  I  '.iIm  ;  1-  a  butcher;  was  born 
,  1S14:  came  to  state  1857,  and 
ed  March,  1S62,  to  Ella  Hill. 
Children,  Flora,  Celia,  Charles  S.  (deceased),  Josephine,  John 
S.  (deceased),  Annie,  Henry  and  Ella. 

Whliam  Patton:  lives  near  Talent;  is  a  farmer;  came 
to  Slate  in  187?  and  to  county  in  1874;  was  born  in  \'ermilion 
county.  111.,  1827;  married  June  13,  l852,  to  Marena  A. 
Parha'm,  born  Decembers,  1834.  Children,  Mary  F.,  Geor- 
getta  C,  Annie  B.,  Emma  E.,  Willie  S.,  Laura  M.,  Alpha 
C.  and  Nathan  F. 

Jacob  Parks:  lives  near  Sterling  creek:  proprietor  of  saw 
mill;  post-office  address,  Jacksonville;  was  born  in  Powshiek 
county,  Iowa;  came  to  state  in  1875,  'o  county  in  1S80;  was 
married  in  1871  to  Lizzie  Waters.  Children,  Edna  M.,  Mat- 
tie  A.,  Ethel  v.,  Ella  A.  and  Hollis  I. 

Wm.  H.  Parker:  lives  at  Brownsborough;  is  a  school 
teacher;  ivas  horn  in  Knox  county:  III,  in  1845;  came  to 
state  in  1852;  to  county  in  1854;  was  married  August  11,  1867, 
to  Fannie  Jones.  Children,  Jennie,  Iva  M.,  George,  Day, 
Otis,  Joseph   Watt. 

Charles  C.  Parker:  lives  on  Cain's  creek;  is  a  farmer 
and  lumberman;  post-office.  Willow  Springs;  was  born  in 
Marion  county,  Oregon;  came  to  county  in  August  1854;  was 
married  October  13,  1880,  to  Mrs.  Mary  M.  Marshall.  Chil- 
dren, Charles  S  and  Delbert  H. ;  children  by  (irst  marriage, 
Joseph  E.  and  Hartie  Bell. 

James  A.  Pankey:  lives  in  Sam's  valley;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Hickman  county,  Tenn.;  came  to  state  in  1853,  and 
to  county  in  1859;  was  married  March  1842,  to  Fannie  Strick- 
lin.  Children,  Catherine  (deceased),  Sarah  J.,  Martha  L., 
Lydia  (deceased),  Thomas  L.,  Mary  A.,  Emily  and  Emma, 
twins,  and   Ross  (deceased). 

J.  S.  Parson:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  physician  and  surgeon; 
was  born  in  Lycoming  county.  Pa.,  in  1850;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1881;  was  married  October  11,  1882,  to  Olive 
Belle  Drake. 

Rev.  Martin  Peterson:  lives  at  "Mound  Ranch,"  on 
Sticky  Flat,  is  a  minister  and  farmer;  post-office,  Jackson- 
ville; was  born  near  Cincinnati,  Ohio;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1864;  was  married  in  1842,  to  Sarah  Arrowood  (de- 
ceased), leaving  one  child,  Mary  E.  Was  again  married  Sep- 
tember   18,  1844,   to  Elizabeth  Hamrick.     Children,   Lorena 


(deceased).  Kittle,  Silas  (deceased),  William  G.  (deceased). 
Smith  (deceased),  Frank  (deceased). 

Enoch  Pelton:  died  in  Sam's  valley;  was  a  farmer;  was 
born  near  Little  Rock,  Ark,;  came  to  State  and  county  in 
1853;  married  Mary  S.  Rowe.  in  1857.  Children,  Horace,  I. 
James  W.  and  John  E. 

David  Peninger:  lives  near  Willow  Springs;  is  a  farmer; 
was  born  in  Lewis  county,  Virginia;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1852;  was  married  March  1869,  to  Louisa  Cox.  Children, 
John  and  Charles,  twins,  George  (deceased),  Fred  and  Hattie. 

George  F.  Pennebaker:  lives  at  Talent;  is  a  farmer;, 
was  born  in  Shelby  county,  Ky.,  April  i,  1821;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1879;  was  married  April  8,  1858,  to  Sarah  A. 
Predmore.  Children,  E.  Delia,  John  S.,  George  W.,  Mary 
B.  and  Edwin  R. 

Samuel  Phillips:  lives  on  Applegate  creek;  is  afarmer 
and  stock  grower;  post-office,  Uniontown;  was  born  in  Wayne 
county,  Ky.,  in  1819;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was 
married  January  I,  1858,  to  Mrs.  Elizabeth  J.  Finley.  Chil- 
dren by  first  marriage,  Lucinda,  Williaii!,  Henry  and  Grant;  by 
second  marriage,  Adaline  and  Charles  R. 

Arthur  Pool:  lives  at  Eagle  Point;  is  a  blacksmith  and 
hotel  keeper;  was  born  in  Bedford  county,  Penn. ;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1873;  was  married  September  4,  1S52,  to 
Lettie  Apger.  Children,  Carinda  E.,  James  M.,  Josephine, 
Chester  W.,  Rhoda  A.,  Dora  M.,  Wintield,  Belle  (deceased), 
Carrie,  Benton,  Arthur  and  Lottie  (deceased).  Mrs.  Pool 
died  at  Eagle  Point  August  1882. 

M.  PuRIiIN:  lives  at  Eagle  Point;  is  a  blacksmith;  was 
born  in  Linn  county,  Mo.;  came  to  state  in  1864,  and  to 
countv  in  1S73;  was  married  Sept.  1874,  'o  Lizzie  Worlow. 
Children,  Irn  E.,  Iva,  Lindsay  and  Lottie. 

Will  lAM  K  w:  lives  on  Applegate  creek;  isa  farmer,  post  of- 
hce  lark^jinille;  bi.rn  in  Buller  county,  Penn.;  came  to  state 
and  iouniv  in  lS^7:  was  married  October  23,  1872,  to  Mr.s. 
Loui-.i  Knu'^ii  \\ard  (deceased I;  children,  William,  Robert, 
Mary  1;.  and  Matliew. 

Gij'.  \\ .  Km  KiK:  lives  on  South  fork  of  Butte  creek;  is  a 
farmci  anil  -li  ^ck  i;iower;  was  born  in  Loudoun  county,  Virginia; 
«ame  to  the  stale,  and  county  in  1S60;  was  married  January 
15,  1872,  to  Sarah  Swingle;  children,  Henry  H.,  Edith  O., 
May,  and  Ida  .S.       Post  office  Brownsboro. 

Alfred  F.  Ragsdale:  lives  on  Salt  creek;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  raiser;  post  office  is  Brownsborough;was  born  in  Jackson 
county.  Georgia,  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1872; 
was  married  July  2,  1872,  to  Malinda  W.  Taylor. 

James  R.  Rea.ms:  lives  near  Phcenix,  is  a  farmer;  was  born 
in  Gracen  county,  K.,  January  6,  1844,  came  to  state  and  to 
county  in  1853;  married  May  16,  1S75,  to  Lavica  A.  Strong; 
children,  Lillie  M.,  Elsie  A.  Harry  W,  and  Nellie. 

C.  H  Reed:  lives  in  Jacksonville,  is  a  painter;  was  born  in 
Howard  county.  Ky.,  came  to  state  in  1853,  and  to  county  in 
I,S'54;  was  married  Tune  23,  1863,  to  Calista  Smith;  children, 
Edd,  Dell,  Myrtle  "and  Frank. 

Miller  G.  Royal;  lives  in  Ashland;  is  principal  of  .Ash- 
land College;  was  born  October  6,  1S53;  in  Roop  county, 
Nevada;  came  tostatein  1853;  was  m.arried  .\ugust  19,  1877,  to 
Tirzah  H.  Bigelow.     Only  child,  Ethel. 

Louis  A.  Rose:  lives  in  Pheenix,  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
grower;  was  born  in  Lee  county.  Iowa.  June  12  1846;  came  to 
state  and  to  county  in  1S52:  was  married  November  16,  1871, 
to  Isabel  Colver;  children,  Effie  L.,  Ella  M.,  Louis  .\.  and 
Bertha  M. 

Samuel  M.  Robison:  lives  on  Wagner  creek;  isa  farmer, 
post  office  Talent,  is  a  native  of  Indiana;  came  to  state  and  coun- 
ty in  1853;  was  married  April  13,  1864,  to  Hannah  E.  Barne- 
berg;  children,  John  R.,  Susan  A.,  George  M.,  William  G., 
Ella  D.  and  Delia  M. 

Carl  G.  B.  Rostel:  lives  in  Jacksonville,  is  a  tonsorial 
artist;  was  born  November  25,  1849,  in  Filehne,  Germany; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1877;  was  assistant  surgeon  in 
Franco- Prussian  war. 

James  R.  Russell:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  marble  cutter;  is 
a  native  of  Tennessee:  came  to  state  and  county  in  1851;  mar- 
ried May  9.  iSi4.  to  Ann  Hasseltine  Hill.  Children,  James 
B.,  Grace,  Xellie.  Martha,  Marv,  Hortese,  Docia,  Bertha  E., 
Mabel   E.,  Cail  MaiMn,  rcail  H. 

H.  D.  Russell:  lives  on  Forest  creek,  is  a  miner;  post  office 
Jacksonville;  was  born  in  Wabash  county,  Ind.,  in  i847;cnnie 
to  state  in  1878,  to  county  in  18S1:  married  November  i,  1878, 
to  Eliza  J.  Morgan;  children,  Edward  and  Nathan. 


507 


Joseph  15.  Saltmarsh:  lives  on  Sterling  creek;  is  a 
miner;  post-office  is  Jacksonville;  was  born  in  Kipley  county, 
Inil.,  1825;  came  to  state  in  1851  and  to  county  in  1852;  was 
married  first,  February  19,  1852,  to  Mary  E.  Khmm  (de- 
ceased). Children,  Annie  and  Charles  JI.  (deceased),  Ar- 
thur, Arzie,  Lillie  and  Edward.  Was  again  married,  Novem- 
ber 24,  1881,  to  Mrs.  Ella  Cameron.  One  child,  Madison. 
Mrs.  Cameron  at  time  of  last  marriage  had  two  children,  Ola 
B.  and  Mary   J. 

Viet  Schutz:  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  brewer;  came 
from  Bavaria,  Germany;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county 
i)i  IS53;  married  Hannah  Libge.  Children,  Gurtof,  Delia, 
William  aiul  Emma.  Mr.  Schutz  keeps  the  largest  brewery 
in  Southern  Oregon 

J.  A.  SiiARS:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  barber;  was  born  in 
Ashland  October  10,  1863;  is  the  son  of  Joseph  and  Eliza 
Sears,  who  came  to  Oregon  from  Iowa  in  1854. 

Conrad  S.  Seriient:  lives  in  Phcenix;  is  a  merchant: 
was  born  in  Western  Virginia,  July  21,  1832,  came  to  stale  and 
county  in  1853;  was  married,  August,  1856,  to  Loetta  Houck. 
Children,  Maggie  E.  and  Laura  U. 

Peter  SiMO.N:  lives  at  Eagle  Point;  is  a  tavern  keeper 
and  farmer;  was  born  in  Hesse  Cassel,  Germany,  in  1827; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1854;  was  married  August  11, 
1S50.  to  Elizabeth  Etzenhauser,  of  Hesse.  Children  living 
are  John  H.,  Alice  C,  Daniel  M.,  Emma  S.,  Peter  C.  and 
Edward  F.;  deceased.  Conr.id  F.,  Edward,  Mary  A.,  Cath- 
erine E.,  Peter,  Chaiies  W.  and  Margaret. 

Pi.KASANT  Smmii:  lives  in  Sam's  valley;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Cock  county,  Tenn. :  came  to  state  in  1874  and  to 
county  in  1S76;  was  married  in  1845  to  Sarah  Hackney. 
Children  living,  Darthula,  William  L.,  Alexander,  Martha 
A.,  Lot  C.  and  Lewis;  children  deceased,  Henry  C,  Lycur- 
gus,  Nancy  J.,  Margaret,  and  Absolom. 

John  W.  Smith:  lives  on  Big  Sticky;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
oflice.  Central  Point;  was  born  in  Cass  county,  Mich.;  came 
to  state  and  countv  in  1S70;  was  married  December  22, 
1S59,  to  Melissa  A.  Norton.  Children,  Cieo.  B.,  Arthur  A., 
Charles  H.,  Kiank  D..  R.llin  E.,  Alfred,  Lewis  E.  and  Le- 
roy  A.  (twins),  and  j..hn   W. 

J.  A.  Si,o\  KK;  lives  in  Jacksonville;  is  a  minister  and 
hotel  keeper;  was  born  in  Jet^'erson  county,  East  Tenn.,  1824; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  l88i;  was  married  first  time  to 
H.  Ingram.  Children,  John  E.,  Thomas  J.,  Elizabeth  J., 
Russetl  H.,  and  Melvina.  Was  married  second  time  to  Mrs. 
Josephine  M.  Rogers.  Children,  Mary  E.,  Fannie  I.,  James 
A.,  CJeorge  H.  and  infant  (deceased). 

William  F.  Songer:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  was  born  in  Washington  county,  1826;  came  to 
state  in  1S52  and  to  county  in  1854;  was  married  in  1869  to 
Mrs.  Cecelia  Slade,  whose  children  were  Charles  W.,  Frank 
O.   and  Belle.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  Songer's  only  child  is  Mary   E. 

Dr.  a.  C.  Stanley:  lives  in  Sam's  valley;  is  a  physician; 
post-office  is  Sam's  Valley;  was  born  in  Berry  county.  Mo., 
September  30,  1835;  came  to  slate  and  county  in  1875;  was 
married  first  to  Miss  Sarah  Burns  (deceased),  in  1856,  and  to 
Miss  .Susan  Martin,  October  24,  1862.  Child,  Ledoth  Ellen. 
Dr.  Stanley  was  in  the  state  legislature  in  1880  and  1882. 

Jacou  Stone:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  a  carpenter;  was  born 
in  Virginia,  August  24,  1844;  came  to  state  in  1869  and  to 
county  in  1873;  "^^  married  in  1868  to  Rachel  Wimer. 
Children,  Daniel  W.,  Eva  May,  Sarah  E.,  Pearly,  Jennie 
F.,  Mary  L.  and  Cora  E. 

Mrs.  M.  E.  Sturgis:  lives  near  Uniontown,  on  Apple- 
gate;  is  a  farmer;  was  born  in  Quincy,  111.;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  i860;  was  married  in  1861;  maiden  name,  M.  E. 
Talley.     Ch  Idren,  Winter.  Albert  (deceased),  and  FredT. 

John  SwindeN:  live-  on  Cain's  creek:  is  a  miner  and 
farmer;  post-office,  ko,l.  ['.:;)■;  xva-:  1;;  \n  \:.:l-],'u.  .  I!ng.; 
came  to  stale  in    1851  .1:  i^;j;    •  1        .uried 

May  9,  1849,  to  Mrs.  1  :  I  ,    -  :        :,    h.ad 

one  child,  James.  Chiliin.  ^  :  ;li  \.  1  i.ii  1'.  \l.u\  A., 
Georgia  A.,  William  H.,  kubert  F.,  [ohn  K.,  Olive  E., 
George  W.,  Charles  L.,  Kate,  Rhoda  J.  and  Agnes  I. 

Robert  Tayi.or:  lives  at  Ashland;  is  a  saloon  keeper; 
was  born  in  Philadelphia,  June  M.  1853;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1869;  was  m.irried  July  3,  1876,  to  Louisa  Briltain. 
Children,  Eva  and  Jay. 

A.  P.  Talent:  lives  in  Talent;  is  a  merchant;  was  born  in 
Blunt  county,  Tenn.,  May  15,  1836;  came  tostate  and  county 
in  1S75;  "-IS  married  in  1859,  to  Mrs.  .Martha  A.  Phifer.     Chil- 


dren, W'.  A.,  John  T.,  Sigourney  A.,  Margaret  J.,  lames  O., 
Ella,  S.,  Bertha  M.,  Charles  T.  and  Martha  M. 

Jacob  Tho.mpson:  lives  in  Ashland;  is  proprietor  of  livery 
stable;  was  born  in  Greene  county,  Ind. ;  came  to  stale  in 
1847,  and  to  county  in  1855:  was  married  September  10,1863, 
to  Mrs.  America  E.  Butler.     Step-son,  Gwin  S.  Butler. 

James  Thornton;  lives  at  Ashland;  is  general  superin- 
tendent of  Ashland  woolen  mills;  is  a  native  of  Indiana; 
came  to  state  in  1850:  to  county  in  1854;  was  married  in  1848, 
to  Isabel  Wallace  (ileceased,  1862).  Children,  Kale  A., 
I-aura  B.,  Sarah  E.,  L.  H.;  was  again  married  June  1863,  to 
Miss  Lizzie  Patterson.  Children,  Fred  S.,  Hattie  M.,  James 
E.  and  Ole  A. 

Job  R.  Tozer:  lives  at  Ashland;  is  a  mechanic  and  builder; 
was  born  in  December  30,  1842,  in  Pennsylvania;  came  to 
state  1S65,  and  county  in  1868;  was  married  July  18,  1867,  to 
Harriet  Briggs  (deceased).  Only  child,  Albert  B.  Was 
again  married  June  14,  1874,  to  Louisa  C.  Neil. 

John  R.  Tyce:  lives  near  Jacksonville;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Covington,  Ind.,  August  15,  1832;  came  to  stale  in 
1851,  and  to  county  in  1853;  was  married  Junes,  '856,  to 
Margaret  Wright.  Children,  Fred,  Annie  A.,  Walter  A., 
Nettie  L,  Charlie,  Harry  F.,  Effie  F.,  Maggie  L.,  John  J., 
Thos.  R.  and  Paul. 

John  Watson:  lives  near  Central  Point,  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower  post  office  Jacksonville  born  in  St.  Stephens,  New 
Brunswick,  came  to  state  and  county  in  1854;  married  1861, 
to  Phelie  Hill. 

John  P.  Walker:  lives  near  Ashland;  is  a  farmer;  was  born 
in  Christian  county,  Ky.;  cnnie  to  stale  and  county  in  1853; 
married  January  26,  is;;.  \li  M.uvA.  Walker;  children, 
Mary  E.,  Milo  A.  (  ;.  '  \ii,,ieT. 

Jacob  Wagner;   I:  \         :  I;   is  a  miller;  was  born 

September  26,  1S20.  lu  I'l;.  :i,  ijluo;  came  to  state  in  I850, 
and  to  countv  in  1851;  was  married  in  i860,  to  Ellen  Hendrix. 
Children,  Annethi,  John  M.,  Frederick  N.,  Mabel  E..  Ella 
T.,  Jessie  N.  and  Jacob  Ernest. 

John  W.  Well's:  lives  near  Ashland;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
raiser;  was  born  in  \'an  Buren  county,  Iowa,  October  26, 
1843;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was  married  June  4, 
187S,  to  Mrs.  Phebe  J.  Walker.  Only  one  child,  Spratt.  Mrs. 
Walker's  children,  Camilla  E.  and  Phebe  M. 

Charles  E.  White:  lives  near  Rock  Point:  is  a  farmer; 
was  born  in  Hillsdale  county,  Michigan;  came  to  .stale  in  1858, 
and  to  county  in  1859;  w^as  married  December  24,  1878,  to 
Mollie  Farra.     Children,  Corlies  and  Harry. 

H.  L.  White:  lives  in  Rock  Point,  is  a  hotel  and  livery 
keeper,  was  born  in  Hillsdale  county,  Michigan;  came  to  slate 
in  1858  and  to  county  in  1859;  married  October  13,  1880,  lo 
Hattie  A.  Tuffs.     Children,  Charles  T.  and  William  M. 

L.  J.  White:  died  at  Rock  Point  October  25,  1877;  was  a 
native  of  Livingston  county,  N.  V.  ;came  to  slate  in  1858,  and 
lo  county  in  1859;  was  married  June  27,  1844,  to  Jane  E. 
Ganyard.  Children,  George  (deceased),  Julius  (deceased), 
Leicester,  Henry,  Charles,  Colonel,  and  Ella  (deceased).  Mr. 
While  was  the  principal  founder  of  Rock  Point. 

George  M.  Willard:  livesin  Ashland;isamercliant;  was 
born  in  Orange  county,  Vl.,  February  26,  1853;  came  lo  stale 
in  1882  and  to  county  in  1883;  was  married  December  23, 
187610  Lottie  C.  David,  of  Minneapolis,  Min. 

Wise  Bros.  :  lives  in  Ashland;  are  merchants;  Solomon 
was  born  September  26,  1854,  and  J.  M.  July  5,  l856in  New 
Vork  city;  Solomon  came  to  slate  and  county  in  1878;  J.  M. 
came  lo  state  in  1877  and  to  county  in  1882. 

John  Wintjen:  lives  in  Jacksonville,  is  a  liquor  dealer; 
was  born  in  1823,  in  Kahstidl,  (Jermany. 

James  P.  Woodson:  lives  in  Ashland,  is  a  teamster  and 
farmer;  was  born  in  Richmond,  Virginia,  June  7,  1830;  came 
to  state  in  1859;  was  married  November  7,  1864,  to  Laura  J. 
Million.  Children,  Flora  A.,  Delia  M.,  Phebe  A.,  Maggie, 
George  B.-and  Nellie  B 

H.  H.  Wolters:  livesin  Ashlaml:  is  a  Inilchcr;  is  a  na- 
tive of  New  Vork  city;  came  t'     :  1  •   m  '    my  in  1861. 

Thomas  W'righT:  lives  ne,,:  W  1:  -  -n  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  raiser;  was  born  in   M  \.  Ky.,  came  to 

stale  and  county  in  1852;  »a-  miii;  M.iy  27,  1863,10 
Elizalielh  Coojier.  Children,  Laura  (decea>eil),  William  N., 
Marv  M.  and  Margaret  E. 

liKciKC.E  Vawdes:  lives  on  Sterling  creek;  is  a  miner  anil 
farmer  post  office,  Jacksonville;  is  a  native  of  Tenn.;  came  to 
state  and  counlv  in   1S52;  was  m.irried   December    I,  1872,  10 


508  APPENDIX. 

Mrs.  Annie  Comstock.       Mrs.  C.  had  one  child,  Oda;  by  last  came  to   state   and   county  in    1S52;  was  married  in  1865,  to 

marriage  has,  Letta  M. ,  Aaron  B.  and  Albert.  Willimina  Shriner   (deceased   1882).     Children,    Anna,   Peter 

NiCHOL.vs  A.  Young:  hves  near  Eagle  Point;  is  a  farmer  F.,  Thomas  F.,  Katie,  Nicholas  and  Clara  M. 
and  stock  grower;  was  born   in  Lorraine,    France,   in   1824; 

JOSEPHINE  COUNTY. 


Mrs.  M.4RY  Adams:  lives  on  Deer  creek,  is  a  farmer; 
post-office  is  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Washington  county, 
Ohio,  in  1830;  came  to  state  in  1S53  and  to  county  in  1S54; 
married  William  Guest  in  1848,  who  was  killed  in  the  Rogue 
river  war.  Children,  John  R.,  Lucy  and  William  H.  Was 
again  married  in  i857  to  Edwin  Potter  (deceased  1770);  since 
married  Mr.  Adams. 

James  W.  Baine:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office  is  Althouse;  was  born  in  Somerset  county,  Afaine;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1869;  married  November  22,  i860,  to 
Sarah  A.  Wesscott.  Children,  Elizabeth  E.,  Josie  B.  and 
Emma  B. 

William  H.  Basye:  lives  on  Missouri  flat  on  Applegate 
creek;  is  a  farmer;  post-oftice  address,  Applegate;  was  born 
in  Tippecanoe  county,  Ind.,  in  1S30;  came  to  state  in  1847 
and  to  county  in  1S62;  married,  March  3,  1850,  to  Elizabeth 
Streithoff.  Children,  Thomas  E.,  Miranda  (deceased),  Ce- 
celia, Charles  H.,  Theodore,  Jenette  and  Lucius  C. 

Melchi  Baughman:  lives  in  Kerbyville;  is  a  miner;  w^as 
born  in  Columbiana  county,  Ohio,  in  1831;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1852;  was  married  December  27,  1882,  to  Lottie 
Cheatham.     Only  child,  John  J. 

C.  H.  Beach:  lives  on  Democrat  gulch;  is  a  merchant  and 
miner;  post-office,  Althouse;  is  postmaster;  was  born  in  Nor- 
folk, Conn.;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1S54. 

Rial  Benedict:  lives  on  Applegate  creek;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  raiser;  post-office,  Applegate;  was  born  in  Genessee 
county,  N.  Y.,  1828;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in 
1853;  was  married  January  i,  1845,  to  Mary  J.  Congle  (de- 
ceased May  6,  1880.) 

John  M.  Bour:  lives  on  Illinois  river;  is  a  miner;  post- 
ofiSce,  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Lorriane,  France,  18 14;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1852;  married  Barbara  Dessinger,  Sep- 
tember, 1861.  Children,  Joseph,  Frank,  David,  Peter,  Mary, 
Victor,  Charles  and  George. 

John  O'Brien:  lives  on  Applegate;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
raiser;  post-office,  Applegate;  was  born  in  county  Galway, 
Ireland,  1828;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1S52;  w-as  mar- 
ried March  19,  1862,  to  Sarah  S.  Barkdull.  Children,  Emniett 
John  E.,  James  A.  and  Sarah  R. 

A.  H.  Carson:  lives  on  Applegate;  is  a  nurseryman;  post- 
office  is  Murphy;  wa?  born  in  Washington  county,  Ohio,  in 
IS43;  came  to  state  and  county  in  I874;  was  married  April 
24,  iS56,  to  Miss  M.  E.  Donnelley.  Children,  Alice  and 
Lewis;  May  and  infant  are  deceased. 

LvMAN  Chappell:  lives  on  Applegate;  is  a  hotel  keeper 
and  farmer;  post-office,  Applegate;  was  born  in  Livingstone 
county,  N.  Y.,  1816;  came  to  state  in  1854  and  to  county  in 
i858;  was  married  December,  1850,  to  Sarah  Fritz. 

William  Chap.man:  lives  near  Kerbyville;  is  a  stock 
grower;  was  born  in  Devonshire,  England;  came  to  state  in 
1850  and  to  county  in  1853;  was  married  May,  1849,  to  Mary 
A.  How  (deceased  June,  188I.)  Children,  William  H. 
(drowned  at  Corvallis,  1875),  Mary  A.  (deceased),  Arthur  J., 
Annie  A.  (deceased)  and  Thomas  H. 

Andrew  J.  Cook:  lives  on  Applegate;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  post-office,  Applegate;  was  born  in  Blunt 
county,  Tenn. ;  came  to  state  in    1852   and  to  county  in  1861. 

M.  D.  L.  Crooks:  lives  on  Deer  creek;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office,  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Wayne  county,  Kentucky,  in 
1S29:  came  to  state  and  county  in  1854;  married  March, 
1864,  to  Mary  J.  Ditmars.  Children,  Nora,  Annie,  Joseph- 
ine (deceased),  Francis  M.,  Tletha,   Sophia  and  Lenora  J. 

Isaac  Custei;:  lives  on  Applegate;  is  a  farmer  and  car- 
penter: post-office,  i\Iurphy;  was  born  in  Champagne  county, 
Ohio,  in  1830;  came  to  state  and  county  in  iS7l;  was  mar- 
ried November  28,  1852,  to  Abigail  Hayes.  Children,  Laura, 
Lydia  J.,  Alice  M.,  Franklin  (deceased),  Alonzo,  Ida  A., 
John  W.  and  Boardman  H. 

Charles  Duncan:  lives  near  Kerbyville;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Indiana  county,  Penn.,  1S45;  came  to  state  in  i860 
and  to  county    in    1866;  married   April    24,  1867,   to  Sophia 


Horner.  Children,  Ida  M.,  Ella  A.,  George,  Fred,  Sophia, 
Charles  and  infant. 

Thomas  F.  Floyd:  lives  on  Illinois  river;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office,  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Chemung  county,  N.  Y.; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1855;  married  July  4,  i860,  to 
Julia  M.  Briggs  (deceased).  Children,  George  E.,  Lucy,  Har- 
riet and  Thomas  F. 

SOMERVILLE  FoRBES:  lives  on  Althouse  creek;  is  a  miner; 
post-office,  Althouse;  was  born  on  an  English  vessel  off  the 
coast  of  England;  came  to  state  in  1870  and  to  county  in  1872. 

John  Goings:  lives  on  Illinois  river;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office,  Kerbyville;  born  in  Memphis,  Tenn.,  in  1S37;  came  to 
state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1S54;  married  first  time,  July, 
1858,  to  Phebe  Goodwin  (deceased);  second  time  in  1866  to 
Mary  Yarbrough.  Children,  Sarah  J.,  Amanda  E..  JohnG., 
Alice  (deceased),  James  T.  (deceased),  Serelda  J.  (deceased), 
Mary  E.  (deceased)  and  George  F. 

Lewis  Haves:  lives  on  Applegate:  isafarmer;  post-office. 
Murphy;  was  born  in  Cuyhoga  county,  Ohio;  came  to  state 
in  1852;  to  county  in  1865;  was  married  October  18,  '853,  to 
Charlotte  Abbott.  Children,  Rachel,  Nancy  E.,  Francis  M., 
Jefferson,  Joanna,  David  O.  Samuel  (deceased),  William  L. 
and  Ira  E. 

O.  D.  HoxiE:  Died  on  Bear  creek  January,  1876,;  was 
born  in  Sandwich,  Massachusetts,  in  1806;  went  to  Jackson 
county,  in  1S52;  married  in  1S25,  to  Eliza  Stevens.  Children, 
Joseph,  Hannah,  George  W.,  James  M.,  Charles  H.,  Obe- 
diah  and  Abram. 

Dr.  D.  S.  HoltoN:  lives  in  Kerbyville:  is  a  physician; 
was  born  in  Monroe  county.  New  York,  in  1829;  came  to 
state  in  September,  1852;  to  county  in  1803;  married  Sep- 
tember, 1852,  to  Nancy  M.  Pea  (deceased  1863).  Children, 
Josie  (Nickerson),  James  D.  and  Ira  E.  Dr.'  Holton  was 
assistant  surgeon  ist  Oregon  cavalry,  in  IS61;  was  elected 
senator  from  Josephine  county  in  1S60:  was  a  member  of  the 
Oregon  territorial  legislature  of  185S. 

Daniel  Hunt:  lives  on  Illinois  river;  is  a  farmer  and 
carpenter;  post-office,  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  1827;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  185S. 

Charles  Hughes:  lives  in  Kerbyville;  has  been  clerk  of 
county  twelve  years;  was  born  in  County  Armagh,  Ireland; 
came  to  state  in  1S64;  to  county  in  1866;  married  August 
14,  1842,  to  Margaret  Hughes.  Children,  Alice  J.,  Charles, 
James,  Mary  A.  and  Florence  M.  Mr.  Hughes  is  one  of  the 
most  prominent  men  in  the  county. 

James  Hughes:  lives  in  Kerbyville;  is  a  liquor  dealer;  was 
born  in  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  in  1849;  came  to  state  in  1864,  and 
to  county  in  1866;  married  August;  1873,  to  Lizzie  E.  Baine. 
Children,  Margaret  E.,  Rosetta  A.  and  James  W. 

Alex  M.  Jess:  lives  on  Applegate  creek,  near  Wilderville; 
is  a  farmer;  was  born  in  Oneida  county.  New  York;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  l8S4;  was  married  April,  1864,  to  Martha 
Moore.  Children,  Belle,  Sherman,  Alexander,  Willie,  Lot- 
tie and  Malvina. 

Alex  N.  Jones:  lives  at  Wilderville;  is  hotel  keeper  and 
post  master;  was  born  in  Knox  county,  Ohio,  in  1830;  came 
to  State  in  1867,  and  to  county  in  1S80;  married  September  I, 
1S67,  to  Hannah  Hoxie.     One  child,  Edwina. 

Henry  Kelley:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office,  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Morris  county,  N.  J.;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1852;  was  married  December,  1870, 
to  Sarah  E.  Bowman.      Children,  Charles  and  Edwin. 

J.  L  Knioht:  died  February  9,  1S84.  at  his  residence  and 
hotel  on  Slate  creek;  was  born  in  New  York  in  1830;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1S71;  was  married  September  25,  1867,  to 
Louisa  Austin.  Children,  Ida  M.  (deceased),  Frank  E.,  Jen- 
nie M.  and  May.     Mrs.  Knight  is  conducting  the  hotel. 

Joh.n  T.  Layton:  lives  on  Applegate;  owner  of  Faris 
Gulch  mines;  post-office,  Applegate:  was  born  in  Lincoln- 
shire, England;  came  to  state  in  1851,  and  to  county  in  1852; 
has  followed  trading  and  mining  since  1851  in  Jackson  antl 
Josephii 


George  \V.  Lewis;  lives  on  Applegate;  is  a  fruit  and 
vegetable  grower;  post-office,  Murphy;  was  born  in  Linn 
county,  Mo.,  1842;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in 
1878;  married  Mary  C.  Sears,  August,  1865.  Children,  Wil- 
liam H.  (deceased),  Harry  L.,  Viola,  May  and  James. 

George  S.  Mathewson:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a 
farmer;  post-office,  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Wayne  county. 
New  York;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1855;  married,  De- 
cember 7,  1869,  to  Sarah  Hatcher.  Children,  Harriet  E., 
Annie  E.  (deceased),  and  George.  Mr.  Mathewson  is  one  of 
Josephine's  largest  land  owners. 

Joseph  S.  McFadden:  lives  on  Applegate;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office,  Murphy;  was  born  in  Fairfield  county,  Ohio; 
came  to  state  in  1872,  and  to  county  in  1876:  married  June 
3,  1880,  to  Kate  Kubli.     Children,  James  and  Joseph. 

James  Neely:  lives  on  Jump-off-Joe  creek;  is  a  farmer 
■  and  stock  raiser;  post-office,  Grant's  Pass;  was  born  in  Mor- 
gan county,  Mo.,  1837;  came  to  state  in  1854  and  to  county 
in  1855:  married,  July  ,5  1877,  to  Elizabeth  Gibson.  Chil- 
dren, Florence  M.,  Evert  A.  and  Edward  C. 

Lawrenxe  E.  Nelson:  lives  on  Althouse  creek;  is  a 
miner;  was  born  in  Calmer,  Sweden;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1870. 

William  M.  Miller:  lives  on  Applegate  creek;  is  a 
farmer;  post-office,  Applegate;  was  born  in  Galoway  county, 
Mo.,  in  1829;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1855; 
was  married  January  15,  1854,  to  Mary  A.  Miller  (deceased 
July  29,  1880).  Children,  Corilda,  Frederick,  John,  Lewis, 
Francis,  Sarah,  Viretta,  Arininta,  Nancy,  Mollie  and  Wil- 
liam E. 

Peter  Miller:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a  sawyer;  post- 
office,  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Morgan  county,  Ohio;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1856. 

James  P.  Mills:  lives  on  Deer  creek;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office,  Kerbyville;  is  a  native  of  New  York;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1857. 

Fra.nk  M.  Nickerson:  lives  in  Kerbyville;  is  county 
clerk;  was  born  in  Litchfield,  Medina  county,  Ohio;  came  to 
state  in  1876;  married,  December  24,  1878,  to  Jo.sie  A.  Hol- 
ton.     Children,  Sherman  L.,  Frank  and  Earl  D. 

T.  G.  Patterson:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a  farmer  and 
teamster;  post-office,  Kerbyville;  born  in  Howard  county, 
Mo.;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1867;  married,  July  3,  1876, 
to  Jessie  Fiester.    Only  child,  Edward  D.,  died  February,  1884. 

William  Pernoll:  lives  on  Applegate;  is  a  merchant  and 
farmer;  post-office,  Applegate;  was  born  in  Hamburg,  Ger- 
many; married,  July  8,  1876,  to  Nancy  Miller.  Children, 
John  W.,  Martin  V.,  Lillie  H.  and  infant. 

A.  H.  Platter:  lives  at  Alehouse  on  Democrat  gulch;  post 
office  Althouse;  is  a  miner:  was  born  in  Miama  county,  Ohio; 
came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1854. 

M.  Ryder:  lives   in    Kerbyville;    is  sheriff   of  Josephine 


county;  also  liotel  proprietor;  was  born  in  New  York  c.ty; 
married,  March  3,  1873,  'o  Mrs.  Elenor  Lind.  Children, 
Mary  S.,  Elenor  and  Ralph.  Mrs.  Lind  had  three  children  at 
time  of  last  marriage,  Elmer,  Florence  and  Alfred. 

George  Si.mmons:  lives  at  Waldo;  is  proprietor  of  mine; 
born  in  Muskingum  county,.  Ohio,  in  1832;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1855,  married,  June,  1859,  to  Jane  Revenaugh; 
Only  child,  Ella. 

Henry  Smith:  lives  at  Wolf  creek;  is  a  merchant,  came 
to  California  in  1850,  to  state  in  1853  and  to  county  in  1858; 
was  born  December  7,  1S20,  in  Wyoming  valley,  Luzerne 
county,  Penn. ;  was  married  in  1844  to  Phoebe  Smith.  Mr. 
Smith  is  a  large  land  owner,  having  1,800  acres. 

Dr.  James  SpencE:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a  physician; 
post-office,  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Yorkshire,  England;  came 
to  the  state  and  county  in  1874;  married.  May,  1874,10  Su- 
sannah Higgins.  Children,  Mary  A.,  Laura  E.  and  Eva  L. 
(deceased),  James  C.  and  William  C,  living. 

Henry  Thcjrn ton:  lives  at  Fort  Hays;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  post  office  Kerbyville;  was  born  at  LaFayelte 
Ind.,   l83.'';  came  to  state  in  1853,  and    to  county  in  1874; 

James  Turner:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a  miner  and 
blacksmith;  post  office  is  Althouse;  was  born  in  Buckingham 
county,  Virginia;  came  to  state  in  1851,  and  tocounty  in  1S53. 
married  June  25,  1865,  to  Fenie  Haines.  Children,  Charles 
H.,  Kate  S.,  George  L.,  Fred  L.,  John  W.  and  Alice  F. 
Mr.  Thornton  was  first  treasurer  of  Umpqua  county. 

L,  Vance:  lives  at  Wilderville;  is  a  merchant;  post  office 
Wilderville;  was  born  in  Todd  county,  Ky. ;  came  to  state  in 
1865,  and  to  county  in  1869. 

Alexander  White:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
post  office  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Hillsdale  county,  Michigan; 
came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1855;  was  married 
October  29,  1S77,  to  Sarah  E.  Tycer.  Children,  May, 
Fredrick  C.  (deceased),  and  William  R. 

Samuel  W.  White:  lives  on  Sucker  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
post  office  Kerbyville;  was  born  in  Livingston  county,  N.  Y.,  in 
1812;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1854;  married 
November  5,  1837,  to  Cynthia  Corbus.  Children,  Job 
(deceased),  Alexander,  Janett,  Hariett  A.  and  James  R. 

Jacob  Wimer:  lives  on  Applegate  creek;  is  a  miller  and 
proprietor  of  a  mine;  post  office  Murphy;  was  born  in  Hunt- 
ington county,  Penn.,  1816;  came  to  state  in  1863,  and  to 
county  in  1867;  married  July  16,  1835,  to  Catherine  Markle. 
Children,  Mary  A.,  Adam  A.,  George  W.,  Catherine,  Wil- 
liam J.,  J.  Henry  (deceased)  and  James  A. 

Henry  York:  lives  on  Applegate  creek;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  post  office  Aj^plegate;  was  born  in  Clay  county, 
Ky.,  in  1834;  came  to  state  in  1S52,  and  to  county  in  1854; 
was  married  July  4,  1862,  to  Sarah  E.  Slagle.  Children, 
William  B.,  Martha  A.,  Ida,  Albeit  S.,  Joseph  S.  Emily, 
.\lice  (deceased),  Francis  M.,  Bertha  M.  (deceased)  and  Jacob. 


DOUGLAS    COUNTY. 


Henry  A.  Adams:  lives  on  Missouri  bottom;  post-office, 
^lyrtle creek;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  came  to  the  state 
in  1850  and  to  the  county  in  1851;  was  born  in  Blunt  county, 
Tcnn.,  August  29,  1828;  was  married  October  22,  1854,  to 
Jestcnn  Wright;  was  again  married,  April  6,  1880,  to  Mrs. 
jane  Cornutt. 

Mrs.  Sekrena  Adams:  was  born  in  Park  county,  Indiana, 
March  4,  1840;  crossed  the  plains  with  her  father,  John 
Sutherlin,  in  1850;  was  married  to  Mack  Adams  in  1852,  be- 
ing only  twelve  years  old;  lives  on  South  Deer  creek,  nine 
miles  east  of  Roseburg;  post-office,  Roseburg. 

William  S.  Ada.ms:  lives  eight  miles  south  of  Roseburg 
on  Robert's  creek;  post-office,  Roseburg;  was  born  in  Doug- 
las county,  Oregon,  June  31,  1853;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
raiser;  formerly  engaged  in  teaching  school;  was  married  to 
.Sarah  Willis,  April  11,  1880. 

Solomon  Ady:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1859;  was  born  September  19, 
1826,  in  Jefferson  county,  Kentucky;  married,  October  26, 
1862,   to  Mary  J.  Ireland. 

John  Aiken:  lives  in  S.ilem,  .Marion  county,  Oregon;  is  a 
farmer;  came  to  state  in  1S47  and  to  county  in  1S49;  was 
born  in  Smith  county,  Tenn.,  in  1861. 

.Vmiert  Applegate:  one  of  the  earliest  Oregon  born  citi- 
zens; was  born  at  the  "  Old  Mission  "  near  Salem,  December 


6,  1843;  '^  ^  farmer;  lives  near  Drain;  c.ime  to  Douglas 
county  in  1850;  married  Nancy  J.  Johnson,  February  17, 
1869.  Children,  Mercy  D.,  Nellie  M.,  Gr.int,  Charles  W., 
Lulu  B.  and  Lucy  I. 

Enoch  P.  Anderson:  lives  on  Deer  creek;  is  a  farmer 
post-office;  Roseburg;  was  born  near  Fayetteville,  Ark.,  .-Vpril 
19,  1845;  came   to  stale  and  county  in  1S53. 

Tlios.  .\pplegate:  lives  near  Yoncalla;  is  a  (.inner  and 
saw  mill  proprietor;  was  horn  in  Polk  county,  Oregon,  -■Aug- 
ust 21,  1S47;  W.-IS  married  to  Hortense  Reed,  September  24, 
1875.     Children,  Agnes,  Carl,  Beatrice  and  infant. 

John  .\pplegate:  lives  ne.ar  Yoncalla;  came  to  Oregon  in 
1843  and  to  county  in  1850;  was  born  March  12,  1842,  in  St. 
Clair  county.  Mo.;  was  married  to  Miss  Laura  Bridges.  Chil- 
dren, Annie,  Lola,  Bertha  and  Charles. 

Milton  Applegate:  lives  at  Yoncalla;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Douglas  county  in  1854;  was  married,  February  17, 
1872,  to  Sarah  M.  Tracy.  Children,  Adalaine,  Arita  and 
infant. 

Francis  Archambeau:  lives  in  French  settlement;  post- 
office.  Looking-glass;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born 
in  Canada,  December  17,  1823;  c.ime  to  state  in  1S47  and  to 
county  in  1851;  was  married,  December  28,  1850,  to  Joseph- 
ine Birdcn. 

J.  T.  Arant:  lives  in   French  scttlemeni:  is  3  farmer  .ind 


510 


APPENDIX. 


stock  grower;  was  born  April  19,  1S23,  in  Davison  county, 
Tenn. ;  came  to  coast  in  1S02  and  to  county  in  1S53;  was 
married  in  1844  to  Mary  J.  Enimitt.  Children,  eight  boys  and 
four  girls;  deceased,  three  boys  and  two  girls. 

Vincent  L.  Arkixgton:  lives  en  Civil  Bend  on  Umpqua 
river;  is  a  merchant  and  post-master;  was  born  September  12, 
1845,  in  De  Kalb  county,  Mo.:  came  to  coast  in  1851  and  to 
county  in  1S52;  married,  April  22,  1877,  to  Miss  Sidna  C. 
Anderson. 

J.\MEsM.  Arrington:  lives  in  Civil  Bend;  was  born  in 
Livingston  county,  Ky. ;  April  7,  1S14;  was  married  to  Kittie 
A.  Halpain,  March  14,  1841;  is  a  farmer  and  surveyor. 

Lewis  Ash:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  post-office,  Canyonville; 
is  a  farmei;  came  to  state  in  1861  and  to  county  in  1878;  was 
born  January  7,  1857,  in  Bedford  county,  Penn. ;  married, 
Septembers,  1875,  '°  I''^  Harmon. 

Tho.mas  Banks:  lives  near  Cinnabar  mines;  is  a  black- 
smith; post-office,  Oakland;  was  born  August  2,  1819,  in 
Hawkins  county,  Tenn.;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853; 
married  August  28,  1850,  to  Catherine  Davis.  •  Children,  Isa- 
bel, John  and  Sarah. 

Castillo  Ball:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  lawyer  and  editor 
and  proprietor  of  Independent;  was  born  in  Jefferson  county, 
Ohio,  in  1848;  came  to  coast  in  1872,  to  state  and  county  in 
J876. 

T.  R.  Baldwin:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  peddler: 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1879;  was  born  March  4,  1840,  in 
Decatur  county,  Indiana;  married  Martha  M.  Ross,  October 
6,  1866. 

Smith  Bailey:  is  proprietor  of  the  Eighteen-Mile  House, 
on  the  Coos  Bay  wagon  road,  eighteen  miles  west  of  Rose- 
burg; was  born  in  Ohio,  in  1S35;  came  to  Oregon,  in':i875, 
and  to  this  county  in  1882;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower; 
married  P.  N.  Belieu,  in  1855. 

Timothy  Barnard:  l.ves  on  Calapooia;  post-office,  Oak- 
land; is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  in  Jo  Davies 
county,  Illinois,  May  10,  1830;  came  to  state  in  1850,  and  to 
county  in  1851;  was  elected  representative  to  the  legislature 
in  1880:  married  to  Margaret  Harper  October  20,  i860. 
Children,  LiUie  D.,  Byron  L.,  Elmer  E.,  James  M.,  Cole  D. 
and  Elizabeth  A. 

James  H.  Be.\ne:  lives  on  North  Myrtle  creek:  is  a  stock 
grower;  came  to  state  in  1S50.  and  to  county  in  1S51;  was 
born  in  Preble  county,  (Jhi...  November  I,  1830;  was  mar- 
ried to  Miss  Harriet  Wright,  September  II,  1853. 

Wm.  F.  Benjamin:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  register  of  the  U. 
S.  land  office;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1859;  was  born 
April  2,  1827. 

Charles  Bealman:  lives  at  Canyonville;  is  a  stock 
grower;  came  to  state  and  county  in  i8s7;  was  born  in  Berne, 
Switzerland,  in  1831. 

A.  M.  Beaty:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  post-office,  Riddle;  is 
a  farmer;  came  to  stale  in  1S58,  and  to  county  in  1866;  was 
born  January  12,  1837,  in  Champagne  county,  Ohio. 

Philip  Benedict:  lives  at  Roseburg;  is  an  undertaker; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1874;  was  born  Januaiy  I,  1838, 
in  Harrison  county,  Ohio;  was  married  to  Elizabeth  Bu- 
chanau.  Children,  Oscar  N.,  Emma  T-,  Cora  L.,  Ida  M. 
and  James  E. 

Louis  Belkii.s;  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  watchmaker  and 
dealer  in  variety  goods,  &c.;!sa  native  of  France;  came  to 
America  in  1854;  to  the  state  in  1S56,  and  to  the  county  in 
1872;  was  married  April  i,  1859,  to  .Miss  F.  M.  Krieschbaum. 
Was  again  married  in  1872,  to  Miss  Belle  Dorr,  who  died  in 
1875.  Again  married  in  1876,  to  Miss  Lizzie  M.«ilda  Shone. 
Is  owner  of  valuable  coal  mines  in  Douglas  county. 

Simpson  Beckley:  lives  at  Drain;  is  a  hotel  keeper;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1874;  was  born  January  25,  1845,  in 
Indiana;  was  married  to  Mary  M.  Major.  Children,  Laura 
A.,  Sarah  E.,  Major  S.,  Eveline,  Henry  E.,  Ada  L.  and 
Edna. 

Frank  W.  Benson:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  present  county 
school  superintendent,  and  teacher  by  profession;  came  to 
state  in  1864  and  to  county  in  1880;  was  born  in  Santa  Clara, 
Cal.,  March  20,  1S58. 

Myron  Bidweli.:  lives  near  Drain  ;  occupation  cabinet 
maker  and  painter;  wasbdrn  in  Ransom  county,  Ohio,  August 
10,  1S34:  came  to  state  in  iS^V.  married  to  i:ilen  Bonner 
October  20,  1864.  ChiMixii.  William  L..  Emilv  A.,  Addie, 
Maggie  J.,  John  M.,  Nor.i  .in, I  Iri.na  A. 

Ja.mes  E.  Bllndell:    li\c>   on    Cow    creek;    post-office. 


Canyonville:  is  a  school  teacher;  came  to  state  in  1S65,  and 
to  county  in  1871:  was  born  May  7,  1843,  in  Bridgeport,  Ct.; 
married  .Slay  i,  187 1,  to  Susan  A.  Thrush. 

Edward  Bland:  lives  in  Canyonville;  was  born  Feb.  23, 
1864,  in  Douglas  county,  Oregon. 

Samuel  P.  Blakely:  lives  on  North  Umpqua;  is  a 
farmer:  post-office,  Mt.  Scott;  was  born  in  Wayne  county. 
New  York,  August  24,  1831;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1852;  was  married  to  Matilda  Mallard,  April  13,  1865. 

W.  R.  Bi.evins:  lives  in  Canyonville;  is  a  butcher  and 
farmer;  came  to  state  in  1843,  and  to  county  in  1878;  was  born 
October  16,  1842,  in  Polk  county.  Mo.;  married  September 
I,  1870,  to  Louisa  Poteet. 

OiEY  Boon:  was  born  in  Franklin  county,  Va.,  Dec.  9, 
1818;  crossed  the  plains  in  1849;  came  to  Douglas  county  in 
1S51;  was  married  in  1862  to  Cintha  Parris;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  raiser,  and  owns  a  large  farm  nine  miles  southeast  of  ■ 
Roseburg;  post-off.ce,  Roseburg. 

John  S.  Bonebrake:  resides  on  South  Deer  creek;  is  a 
farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  in  Fountain  county,  Ind., 
in  1830;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1864. 

IsA.AC  Boyl:  resides  near  Canyonville;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  in  Taswell  county,  Va.,  March  24,  1818;  arrived  in  state 
and  county  in  1851;  married  to  Phoebe  Thrush  December  15, 
1859. 

Daniel  J.  Bollenbaugh:  lives  near  Canyonville;  is  a 
farmei  and  miner;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in 
1854;  was  born  April  9,  1831,  in  Fairfield  county,  Ohio; 
married  October  30,  1853,  to  Katherine  Swartz. 

J.  Brock:  lives  near  Wilbur;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser; 
was  born  in  Madison  county,  Ohio,  March  10,  1821;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1866;  married  to  Delilah  Baldwin,  de- 
ceased, March  26,  1843.  One  child,  Cowen  B.  Mr  Brock 
was  again  married  March  10,  1866,  to  Eletha  Ridenour. 
Has  five  children  by  second  wife,  Eliza,  Lury  and  Lucy, twins, 
Daly  and  Ethel. 

John  T.  Bryan,  Jr.:  lives  at  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  jeweler; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1874;  was  born  in  Logan  county, 
III.,  August  24,  1858. 

T.  V.  Bradley:  lives  at  Nonpareil;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
grower;  post-office,  Oakland;  born  December  3,  1829,  in  Cal- 
oway  county.  Mo.;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1852:  mar- 
ried March  22,  1857,  to  Miss  Cynthia  S.  Tipton.  Children, 
William  D.,  Cynthia  J.,  Rosa,  Viola  S.,  Benjamin  L.,  James 
P.,  Ira  R.  and  Lillie  V. 

A.  F.  Brown:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  merchant  and  town 
proprietor;  was  born  in  Stratford,  county,  N.  IL,  August  31, 
1836;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1859;  married  in  Boston, 
November  9,  1854,  to  Miss  Ada  Lamkin.  Children,  Minnie 
A.  (deceased),  Edgar  L.  (deceased),  Frederick  A.,  William 
H.,  Charles  H.  and  Joe  H. 

Thomas  Brown:  lives  7  miles  northwest  of  Roseburg;  is 
a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  March  25,  1812,  near 
Elgin,  Scotland;  married  Miss  Sarah  Flett.  Children,  James, 
George,  Maria,  John,  Thomas,  Frank,  May  and  Agnes;  came 
to  state  in  1847,' and  '«  county  in  1851. 

Mrs.  Nancy  Browning:  lives  on  North  Myrtle  creek; 
was  born  in  Canton,  Fulton  countv.  111.,  February  19,  1834; 
was  married  January  24,  1853,  to  Dr.  E.  G.  Browning;  came 
to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in   1855. 

RuFUS  BtrrLER:  was  born  in  Massachusetts  in  1812;  came 
to  this  coast  in  1849;  and  arrived  in  this  county  in  1S50; 
w^as  married  first  time  to  Miss  Henrietta  Jones,  and  the  sec- 
ond time,  in  1S53,  to  Miss  Sarah  Wells. "  Two  children  were 
born  by  his  first  wife,  and  eleven  by  his  second  wife.  He  ilied 
of  paralysis  November  9,  1883. 

Thomas  B.  Burnett:  lives  in  Round  Prairie,  ten  miles 
south  of  Roseburg;  post-office,  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  was  born  in  Douglas  county,  Oregon,  Septem- 
ber 10,  185S. 

Leonard  Buell:  lives  in  Looking-glass  valley;  is  a  farmer 
and  mail  contractor;  was  born  July  4,  1813,  in  Genessee 
county,  New  York;  came  to  coast  in  1849,  to  Oregon  in  1852, 
and  to  county  in  1854:  married  March  13,  1836,  to  Julia  A. 
Giles.  Children,  four  girls  and  eight  boys;  one  son  deceased. 
G.  A.  Burt:  lives  at  Yoncalla;  is  a  farmer  and  town  pro- 
prietor; was  born  in  Bristol  county,  Mass.,  in  1827;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1850;  was  married  November  27,  1852,  to 
Ellen  .\pplegate.  Children,  Perit  H.,  John,  Henry,  Fosco, 
Lucy  and  Sue. 

James  D.  Burnett:  lives  on   Round  Prairie;  is  a  farmer 


APPENDIX. 


511 


and  stock  raiser;  came  to  state  in  1850,  and  to  county  in  1852; 
was  l>orn  March  12,  1822,  in  Blunt  county,  Tenn. ;  was  mar- 
ried to  Margaret  Love.  Children,  Martha  (deceased),  Fran- 
cis (deceased),  Mary,  Lydia,  Thomas  B..  Lucy  and  Virginia  C. 
(deceased). 

D.  .S.  K.  BtiiCK:  lives  at  Myrtle  Creek;  is  a  hotel  keeper; 
came  to  state  in  1872,  and  to  county  in  1876;  was  born  m 
Scotland,  in  1827;  married  Janet  Brown,  July  9,  1852. 

Linus  Biishnell;  lives  on  Ten-Mile  creek;  post-office, 
Ten-Mile;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1854:  was 
born  in  Greene  county.  New  York,  March  23,  1815;  was 
married  October  12,  1842. 

James  Byro.v:  lives  on  .South  Ten-Mile  creek;  post-olifice, 
Ollala;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1868;  was 
born  October  18,  183S,  in  Ireland;  was  married  to  Mary 
Cloake,  January  26,  1S71. 

O.  K.  P.  Cain:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  post-office,  Riddle; 
is  a  miner;  was  born  November  29,  1821,  in  Niagara  county. 
New  York;  married  Cyntlia  J.  Nichols,  March  15,  1858; 
came  to  state  in  1851  and  to  county  in  1873. 

George  J.  Callahan:  lives  in  French  settlement;  post- 
office.  Looking-glass;  is  a  farmer;  was  born  in  Boone  county, 
"        "'  No- 


Mo.,  May  7, 
vember  29,  i 

JOH.N    G. 
farmer;  canit 


1*50; 


?d    to  Sophronia    Holri 

11!  y  in  1864. 

■    on  South   Myrtle   creek;  is  a 

>3;  was   born   in    Lane  county, 

iried  Annie    Lewis,    November 


Oregon,  Augu 
30,  1882. 

W.  K.  Caldwell:  lives  in  Cole's  valley;  is  a  carpenter; 
came  to  this  coast  in  1850,  to  state  in  1S59  and  to  county  in 
1S6S;  was  born  in  Paris.  Bourbon  county,  Ky.,  August  22, 
1831;  was  married  to  Ella  Perkins.  Children,  Alwilda  E. 
(deceased),  Horace  (deceased),  Edgar  M.  (deceased),  Robert 
E.,  Ida  .\I.  and  William  B. 

W.  H.  Caldwell:  lives  in  Canyonville;  is  a  farmer  and 
butcher;  came  to  state  in  1857  and  to  county  in  1867;  was 
born  February  17,  1849,  in  Andrew  county.  Mo. ;  married.  Oc- 
tober 25,  1877,  to  Martha  A.  Jennings. 

JOH.N  Canady:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  farmer;  was  born. 
September  15,  1841,  in  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to 
county  in   1854. 

C.  D.  Cary:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  came  to  state  in  1865 
and  to  county  in  1874;  was  born  in  Madison  county,  Iowa, 
July  7,  1854. 

Joseph  W.  Carlon:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  proprietor  of 
livery  stable;  came  to  state  in  i860,  and  to  county  in  1864; 
was  born  July  12,  1837,  in  Lawrence  county,  Penn.  ;was 
married  to  Nancy  Stevenson.  Children,  Hannah,  Ernest, 
William  E.,  Joseph  R.,  Belle  and  Bertha. 

John  H.  Cakier:  lives  in  Looking-glass  valley;  is  a 
farmer;  was  born  July  30,  1830,  in  Washington  county.  East 
Tenn.;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1859;  married 
F"ebruary  22,  1852,  to  Eveline  Etherton. 

Sa.muei.  C.4SEBEER:  was  born  June  8,  1824,  in  Wayne 
county,  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1853; 
was  married  to  Jemima  Brown,  October  26,  1847;  was  a 
farmer;  lived  in  French  settlement,  where  he  died  in  1870. 

John  L.  Casebeek:  lives  in  French  settlement;  post-office, 
Roseburg;  is  a  teacher  and  farmer;  was  born  February  22, 
1862,  in  Douglas  county,   Oregon. 

John  Catching:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  post-office,  Riddle; 
is  a  farmer  and  miner;  came  10  state  in  1845  •">"''  '"  county  in 
1851;  was  born  September  18,  1820,  in  Kentucky;  was  mar- 
ried May  9,  1847,  to  Margaret  Wilson. 

R.  L.  Cavkti:  lives  seventeen  miles  east  of  Roseburg; 
post-olfice,  Roseburg:  is  a  stock  raiser;  came  to  state  in  1858 
and  to  county  in  1S59:  was  born  in  Tennessee  in  1S36. 

James  F.  Chahwick:  lives  near  Wilbur;  is  a  farmer;  came 
to  state  and  county   in   1879;  was  born  in  England,  April  7, 


1837;  married  in  1868 

Joseph  Chami'Acne 
er;  was  born  August  10, 
state  and  county  in  185 1 


Agnes  Foran.  One  child 
lives  in  French  settlement ;  is  a  farm- 
1825,  in  Eastern  Canada;  came  to 
married,  February  27,  185",  to  Ann 


.\.  E.  Champagne:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  proprietor  of 
Cosmiipoliian  hotel;  was  born  June  15,  1836,  near  Montreal, 
Cana<la;  was  married  to  Nancy  R.  Bradley;  came  io  slate 
and  county  in  1867. 

William  R.  Chenowkth:  lives  si.\  miles  northeast  of 
Roseburg;  is  a  farmer  and  gardener;  was  born,  August  2, 
1826,  in  I'ike  county,   Ohio;  married,  .May  29,  1853,  to  .Maria 


-McKinney.  Children,  Joseph,  and  James  (deceased). 
Came  to  state  in  1S50  and  to  county  in  1852. 

James  Chenoweth:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  merchant;  was 
born  in  De  Kalb  county,  Missouri,  September  22,  1850;  came 
to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1803;  wa-s  elected  to  the 
legislature  in  1878. 

Joseph  L.  Churchill:  lives  in  Cole's  valley;  is  a  farmer; 
and  stock  raiser;  post-office,  Umpqua  Ferry;  was  born  in 
Columbia  county.  New  York,  in  1840;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  li;66;  married  Miss  Willia  A.  Emmitt,  June  I, 
1873.     Only  child,  Frank. 

Jesse  Clayton:  lives  on  Calapooia;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
raiser;  post-office,  Oakland;  was  born,  October  16,  1828,  in 
Perry  county,  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1847;  was  in  Cayuse 
war;  married  Mrs.  L.  E.  Heckathorn,  August  10,  1869. 
Children,  Lizzie,  Susie,  Jesse  R.,  Franklin  and  Maud. 

Thomas  Coats:  lives  on  Ten-mile  creek;  post-office,  Ten- 
mile;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1853;  was  born 
in  Louisville,  St.  Lawrence  county.  New  York,  September  3, 
1823;  married  Caroline  Carter,  December  3,  185 1. 

C.  F.  Colvin:  lives  near  Drain;  is  a  lumberman  and  stock 
grower;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1858;  married 
Caroline  Zufult,  January,  1843.  Children,  Lydia  F.,  Wil- 
liam F.   and  Sarah  J.   (deceased). 

Joseph  Comelison:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a 
farmer  and  stock  grower;  came  to  state  in  1850  and  to  county 
in  1853;  was  born  July  10,  1829,  in  Coffee  county,  Tenn.; 
married.   May,  1851,  to  Mary  J.  Adams. 

A.  W.  Co.mpton:  lives  in  Roseburg;  was  born  October  10, 
1S29,  in  Maryland;  came  to  this  coast  in  1848,  to  state  in 
1849  and  to  county  in  1865;  Mrs"T  Compton  has  a  dress-mak- 
ing establishment  in  Roseburg. 

Henky  Conn,  Sr:  lives  in  French  settlement  si.x  miles 
west  of  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer  and  breeder  of  fine  stock;  was 
born  October  12,  1816,  in  Lycoming  county,  Penn.;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1854;  was  married,  February  28,  I838,  to 
Mary  J.  Stultz. 

Plinn  Cooper:  lives  six  miles  south  of  Roseburg;  post- 
office,  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser;  was  born  in 
Es.se.x  county.  New  York.  December  19,  1836;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1857;  was  married  to  Hannah  E.  Ivelly  in  i860. 

James  Co.X:  lives  eight  miles  east  of  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  grower;  post-office,  Roseburg;  was  born  in  Whitley 
county,  Ky.,  March  21,  1815;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to 
county  in   1853. 

Noah  Cornutt:  lives  in  Riddle;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
grower;  came  to  state  in  1853  and  to  county  in  i860;  was 
born  February,  5,  1836,  in  (jrayson  county,  Virginia. 

Augustus  O;  Co>roN:  lives  in  Looking-gla.ss  valley,  one 
mile  nortlie,i-i  ~r  iIi.  •.\"j^:-:  post-office.  Looking-glass;  is  a 
farmer;  wa^  1     1  <  ^o  county.    New  York,  in   1844; 

came  to  stale     ,1^^  •  county  in  1857;  married,  April 

2,  1871,  to  Mi--    1    n;i,i,     Mirvin. 

T.  J  Critesek:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  proprietor  of  flour- 
ing mills;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1S63;  was  born  in 
Marion  county,  Indiana,  January  25,  1845;  's  married.  Chil- 
dren, Lottie,    Walter,  Thomas  and  Lillie. 

Francis  M.  Criteser:  lives  in  French  settlement,  ten 
miles  west  of  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer;  was  l>orn  .March  13,  1840, 
in  Fulton  county,  Ind.;  came  to  this  co.-ist  in  1854  and  to 
county  in  l866;  married,  June,  1859,  to  Mary  Spray.  Chil- 
dren, six  boys  and  one  girl;  one  son  deceased. 

William  P.  Day:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  is  a  farmer  ami 
stock  grower;  came  to  state  in  1845,  and  to  county  in  1851; 
was  born  at  Fort  Edward,  Washington  county,  N.  Y.,  .-Vugust 
26,  1822;  w.as  married  in  1S51,  to  Fhebe  Culver,  the  family  of 
six  children  are  all  decea.sed. 

-Michael  Dean:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  post  office  is  Riddle; 
is  a  farmer;  came  to  .state  in  1S65,  and  to  county  in  1866;  was 
born  December  10,  1833  in  Jackson  county,  -Mo.;  w.is married 
February  3,  1858,  to  Margaret  Dyer. 

W.  H.  B.  Deardoi"!':  lives  on  Camas  swale;  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  grower;  post  office  Oakland;  was  born  .March  28, 
1828,  in  Union  county,  Ind.;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1853;  was  married  March  20,  1853,  to  Georgia  .\.  H.-irl. 
Children,  .Albert  G.,  Josephine,  .Marcena,  Isabella,  Horace, 
John  W.   and  Katie. 

George  Dement:  lives  on  Myrtlccreek;  is  a  farmer;  came 
to  stale  and  county  in  1858;  was  born  February  2,  1S35,  '" 
Randolph,    III.;    was   married  June    lO,   1S65,   10    Eliz.ilieth 


APPENDIX. 


James  M.  Dillard:  lives  in  Civil  Bend  on  Umpqua  river; 
is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  September  14,  1S42, 
in  Greene  count)'.  Mo.;  came  to  state  in  1850,  and  to  county 
in  1851;  married  April  17,  1864,  to  Mary  E.  Co.x. 

John  Dillard:  lives  at  Dillard  station;  post  office  Rose- 
burg;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  born  August  16,  1813  in 
Kno.v  county,  Ky. ;  came  to  state  in  1850,  and  to  county  in 
1852;  was  married  January  22.  1S32,  to  Jane  Martin. 

Raphael  B.  Dixo.\:  lives  on  Deer  creek,  eight  miles  east 
of  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  post  office  Rose- 
biirg;  was  born  in  Andrew  county.  Mo.,  November  12,  1847; 
croised  the  plains  in  1852,  and  came  to  this  county  in  1853; 
married  to  Miss  Nancy  M.  Li\'ingston,  May  1873. 

William  G.  B.  Dixon:  lives  north  of  Roseburg;  is  a  stock 
grower;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1853;  was 
born  in  Fulton  county,  111.,  August  22,  TS44;  married  Septem- 
ber 12,  1878. 

Samuel  H.  Dodson:  lives  twelve  miles  southeast  of 
Roseburg;  post  office  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser; 
was  born  in  Missouri,  December  21,  1849:  came  to  siate  and 
county  in  1852;  was  married  to  Martha  Hervey,  November 
29.  1877. 

\V.  B.  Drake:  lives  on  Myrtle  creek,  and  runs  an  express; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1875;  was  t'O"'"  •"  Penn.,  February 
22,  1831;  married  December  6,  lS66,  to  Mrs.  Francis  Ritchey. 

William  P.  Dunham:  lives  on  Deer  creek;  is  a  stock 
raiser;  post  office  Roseburg;  was  born  in  Warren  county.  Mo., 
September  16,  1847;  came  to  state  in    1864,  and  to  county  in 

H.  Dyer:  lives  at  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  merchant;  was  born 
in  Douglas  county.  Or.,  May  7,  1856. 

Jefferson  Dyer:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  post  office  is  Riddle; 
is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  in  1865,  and  to  county  in  1866;  was 
born  March  18,  1818,  in  White  county,  Tenn.;  married 
November  6,  1842,  to  Mrs.  Jane  Lovelady. 

Moses  T.  Dyer:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1852;  was  born  March  14,  1819, 
in  Madison  county,  Vermont;  was  married  December  1848,  to 
Sarah  Ross. 

Hardy  Elliff:  lives  eleven  miles  south  of  Canyonville; 
post  office  Galesville;  is  the  largest  farmer  and  land  owner  in 
the  county  having  3640  acres  of  land;  was  born  December  7, 
1822,  in  Sumner  county,  Tenn.;  came  to  California  in  1849, 
and  to  state  and  county  in  1851.  Mr.  Elliff  was  the  first 
settler  in  Cow  creek  valley,  July  2,  1852. 

Joseph  Ensley:  lives  on  Calapooia;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
grower;  post  office  Oakland;  was  born  in  Montgomery  county, 
Ohio,  April  20,  1824;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in 
1855;  married  May  14,  1844,  to  Eliza  A.  Knutt.  Children, 
Samuel,  Rosa  J.,  Henry,  Abram,  Sarah,  Aleck,  James,  John 
and  Washington.  William,  Grant,  Susana,  Joseph  and 
Christopher  are  deceased. 

Allen  A.  Engles:  resides  on  the  east  fork  of  the  North 
Umpqua  river;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser;  post  office  Patter- 
son's Mill;  was  born  in  Independence  county,  Arkansas,  March 
4,  1832;  arrived  in  state  and  county  in  1853;  married  Char- 
lotte Simmons  July  11,  1858,  who  lived  only  a  short  time,  and 
was  married  a  second  time  to  Mary  McDonal,  October  3,  1S61, 
■who,  also,  has  since  died. 

Edwin  A.  Estes:  lives  in  Drain;  has  a  variety  store  and  is 
postmaster,  and  agent  for  Wells,  Fargo  &  Go's.  e.xpress;  was 
born  in  Lee  county,  Iowa,  August  13,  1846;  came  to  Oregon 
in  1S50,  and  to  county  in  1852;  was  married  to  Flora  Clark 
June4,  1874.    Children,  Edwin, William G.,  Lenora and  infant. 

P.  G.  EuB.\NKS:  lives  at  Camas  swale;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  post  office  Oakland;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and 
ito  county  in  1854;  was  born  in  Cooper  county.  Mo.,  Septem- 
ber 26,  1838;  was  married  to  Sarilda  Young  (deceased),  Octo- 
ber 1862,  by  whom,  had  two  children.  Was  again  married 
January  1877,  to  Polly  Sutherlin  who  had  three  children,  all 
deceased. 

S.  D.  Evans,  Sr. :  formarly  of  Cole's  valley;  was  born  in 
Madison  county,  Ohio;  arrived  in  this  state  and  county  in  1853; 
was  married  March  2,  185 1,  to  Louisa  A.  Thompson;  S.  D. 
Evans,  Jr.,  their  only  child  was  born  November  6,  1861;  Mr. 
Evans  was  killed  by  Indians  August  I,  1861,  in  Northern  Cal- 
ifornia. 

Samuel  D.  Evans,  Jr.:  lives  at  Umpqua  Ferry  in  Cole's 
valley;  post  office  Umpqua  Ferry;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1863;  was  born  in  Washoe  county,  Nevada, 
November  6,  1861 . 


David  Fate;  resides  on  Day's  creek,  near  Canyonville; 
is  a  farmer;  was  born  in  Perry  county,  Ohio,  July,  1823; 
came  to  this  stale  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1853;  married 
Mary  A.  Ward  in  Ohio,  September  15,  1850. 

Joshua  Fawcett:  lives  on  North  Myrtle  creek;  is  a 
farmer  and  miner;  came  to  state  and  county  in  :S68;  was  born 
August  3,  1833,  in  Gallia  county,  Ohio;  was  married  March 
24,  1864  to  Mrs.  Nancy  C.  Sharp. 

William  Ferguson:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  post-office, 
Camas  valley;  is  a  saw  mill  proprietor;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1879;  was  born  in  Canada  in  1835. 

George  B.  Finch:  lives  on  South  Deer  creek;  was  born 
in  Hamilton  county,  Ohio,  in  1820;  is  a  farmer:  came  to 
state  in  1845  ^nd  'o  county  m  1850. 

Adam  Fisher:  lives  near  Winchester;  post-office,  Rose- 
burg; is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser;  came  to  state  in  1870  and 
to  county  in  1871;  was  born  February  15,1841,  in  Bavaria, 
Germany;  married  Melissa  Jones.  Children,  Emma,  Ellen, 
Chester  and  infant. 

John  Fisher:  lives  on  Ten-Mile  creek;  post-office.  Olalla, 
is  a  farmer;  was  born  May  22,  1828,  in  Germany;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1855. 

Judge  J.  S.  Fitzhugh;  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  mer- 
chant; was  born  August  27,  1833,  in  Morgan  county,  Illinois; 
was  married  to  Mary  J.  Flowers.  Children,  Josephs.,  Sam- 
uel E.  and  Clinton  C.      Came  to  state  and  county  in  1857. 

Fred  Floed:  was  born  at .  Winchester,  Douglas  county, 
1859;  is  a  merchant;  is  a  son  of  the  late  Creed  Floed,  of 
Roseburg. 

Ferdi.n.\nd  Fortin:  was  born  in  Quebec,  Canada;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1855;  was  married  to  Mary  kidenour 
October  12,  i860;  lives  in  Cole's  valley;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office,  Umpqua  Ferry.  Children,  Josephine  (deceased),  Timothy 
R.,  Louis  S.,  Margaret  A.  (deceased),  Harvey  B.  (deceased), 
and  Ferdinand. 

Hon.  James  C.  Fullerton;  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  re- 
ceiver of  land  office;  was  born  December  16,  1848,  in  Butler 
county,  Ohio;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was  married 
in  1874  to  Miss  Clara  Bunnell,  of  Roseburg.     One  child. 

F.  M.  Gabbert:  lives  at  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  merchant;  came 
to  state  in  1855,  and  to  county  in  1858;  was  born  in  Cham- 
pagne county.  111.,  January  14,  1832;  married  Miss  Louisa 
Browning  in  December,  1855. 

Crawford  Gaddis:  lives  in  Roseburg;  was  born  in  Daven- 
port, Delaware  county.  New  York,  in  1824;  came  to  state  in 
1852,  and  to  this  county  in  1868;  was  married  October  24, 
1861,  to  Miss  S.  A.  Imbler.  Children,  Cassius,  Winfield  C, 
Echo,  Clyde  and  E.  C.  JNIr.  Gaddis  tilled  the  position  of 
county  judge  and  treasurer,  for  several  terms. 

T.  C.  Gaunt:  lives  in  Canyonville;  is  a  saloon  keeper; 
born  in  Hopkins  county,  Kentucky,  January  29,  1830;  arrived 
in  state  and  county  in  1865;  married'  Elizabeth  Wright,  April 
4,   1871. 

James  P.  Gilmore:  lives  nine  miles  south  east  of  Roseburg; 
post-office  Roseburg;  was  born  in  Clay  county.  Mo.,  April  13, 
1830;  was  married  to  Nancy  Barnes  in  1851;  settled  in  Doug- 
las county  in    1852. 

Francis  M.  Good:  was  born  in  Lee  county,  Va.,  January 
24,  1831;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was  married  to 
Caroline  Pierce,  September  12,  i860;  lives  at  Cleveland;  is 
the  postmaster,  merchant  and  miller  at  that  place.  Children, 
Mary  A.  (deceased),  Nellie  J.,  Martha,  Edna,  Addiel.,  Carrie 
A.,  Francis  O.  and  Daniel  Garfield. 

Jeptha  Green:  lives  four  miles  south  of  Roseburg,  on 
Umpqua  river;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser;  came  to  state  in 
1S52,  and  to  county  in  1853;  was  born  in  1828,  in  Richland 
county,  Ohio.  Children,  OUie  F.,  Ellis  M.  (deceased),  Rosa 
B.,  Robeit  and  Roscoe  N. 

Jesse  Gross:  lives  at  Drain; occupation  wagon  maker;  born 
March  8,  1S30,  in  Randolph  county,  Virginia;  came  to  Oregon 
in  1874,  and  to  Douglas  county  in  1883;  was  married  to  Miss 
Ellender  Gates,  September  9,  1852. 

Benja.min  J.  Grubbe:  lives  in  Wilbur;  was  born  in  Wash- 
ington county,  Virginia,  November  26,  181 5;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1850;  married  Ehzabeth  Legget  (deceased), 
March  13,  1835.  Children,  Melissa  J.,  Charlotte,  Sarah  A., 
George  W.,  William,  James  B.,  Angeline,  QuincyA., 
Emma  (deceased),  Luetta,  Jeptha  and  Luella.  Mr.  Grubbe 
was  again  married  January  17,  1S71,  to  Mrs.  Rachel  Reed. 
One  child,  Minnie. 

George  V.  Gurnev:  lives  on  Ten-mile  creek;  post-office. 


513 


Ten-mile;  is  a  lumbennan;  came  to  state  and  county  in  185S; 
wasL)oinin  Lee  county,  Iowa,  December  22,  1851;  was  mar- 
ried January  i,  1876,  to  Jane  Fisher. 

James  VV.  Gcjrney:  lives  on  Ten-mile;  post-office,  Ten- 
mile. 

Charles  M.  Hall:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  tinner;  was 
born  in  Stark  county,  111.,  March  4,  1850;  came  to  state  in 
1853  and  to  county  in  1S54;  married  December  19,  1875, 
-S.irah  .M.  Bair.     Children,  Carrie  and  William. 

John  IIall:  lives  on  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1859;  was  born  October  3,  1837,  in 
Champagne  county,  Ohio;  married  Susana  Weaver,  October 
17,  1862. 

RonKRT  Hanev:  lives  near  Elkton;  is  a  farmer  and  stock- 
raiser;  was  born  September  12,  1833,  in  Chester  county, 
Penn.;  came  to  slate  and  county  in  1874;  married  Mary  A. 
DaviN.  Children.  Julia  A.,  George  W.  (deceased),  Charles 
B.,  Oliver  l>.  (deceased),  Fred  T.  (deceased),  John  E.,  Min- 
nie B.  and  Nettie  M. 

Geori;e  Hanan:  died  on  his  farm  near  Roseburg,  May 
1878;  was  a  boot  and  shoe  maker;  was  born  in  city  of  Cork, 
Ireland,  May  S,  1822;  came  to  co.ist  in  1844  and  to  county  in 
1852.  His  widow,  Eliza  J.  Hanan,  resides  on  farm;  post-of- 
fice, Wilbur;  was  born  in  New  Vork  city,  March  31,  1829; 
came  bi  state  in  1844  and  to  county  in  1852. 

William  K.  Han.va:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  stock  grower 
and  butcher:  came  to  state 'and  county  in  1853;  was  born 
March  8,  1838,  in  Monitor  county,  Mo;  married  November 
8,  186S,  to  Lucy  M.  Smith.  Children,  Eliza  M.,  Robert  K., 
Henrietta  V.,  Carl  F.,  Stella  and  infant. 

Thomas  Hancock:  lives  near  Elkton;  post-office,  Elkton; 
is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1850;  was  born  in  Australia  in  1842. 

James  H.  Hari'HAM:  lives  on  Deer  creek;  is  a  stock 
raiser  and  school  teacher;  post-office,  Roseburg;  was  born  in 
Oregon  city,  Ogle  county.  111.,  in  1847;  came  to  state  and 
county  in   1863. 

Albert  W.  Hart:  lives  in  Drain;  is  an  engineer;  was 
born  in  Onandago  county.  New  Vork,  July  3,  1845;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1874;  married  March  12,  1865,  to  Mary 
A.  Conway.     One  child,  Rosa  B. 

John  H.  Hartin:  lives  on  Looking-glass  creek;  post- 
office,  Civil  Bend;  is  a  farmer;  was  born  June  30,  1829,  in 
Lincoln  county,  Tenn. ;  came  to  state  in  1850  and  to  county 
in  1S53;  married  Miss  Mary  Flournoy,  September  25,  1856. 
Children,  four. 

Job  Hatfield:  lives  near  Scottsburg;  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  .\ugust  31,  1?I3,  in  Nova  Scotia;  came  to  state  in  1849 
and  to  county  in  1850. 

William  S.  Hervey:  lives  on  Clark's  Branch;  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  grower;  came  to  state  in  1864  and  to  county  in 
1S65:  was  born  in  Greene  county,  Tenn.,  July  3,  1833;  mar- 
ried November  20,  1856,  to  Miss  H.  Bowman. 

J.  1'.  Hervey:  lives  on  Clark's  Branch;  post-office.  Myrtle 
creek;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  came  to  state  in  1S64 
and  to  county  in   1865. 

N.  Herington:  lives  near  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  in  1879  and  to  county  in  1880;  was  born  in  Van 
Buren  county,  Iowa,  August  5,  1851;  married  Samantha  L. 
Berry,  June  6,  1880. 

John'  D.  Hewitt:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  photographer; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1871;  was  born  in  Shelby  county, 
Ind.,  April  28,  1845;  married  Flora  B.  Imbler,  of  Douglas 
county. 

L.  C.  Hill:  lives  in  Missouri  bottom;  post-office.  Myrtle 
creek;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1863;  was 
born  in  -Scioto  county,  Ohio,  November  I,  1S3S;  married 
Nancy  A.  (ilaze,  January,  1878. 

Fi.emmin(;  R.  Hill:  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was 
born  in  Overton  county,  Tenn.,  October  17,  1824;  came  to 
state  in  1844;  was  in  Cayuse  war;  came  to  county  in  1851; 
was  sheriff;  has  been  hotel  keeper  since  1856;  married  .Miss 
Delinda  Reed  .March,    1S53.     Children,  Mary  A.  and  Fannie. 

John  T.  Hinkle:  lives  ten  miles  east  of  Roseburg  on 
Deer  creek;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  post-office,  Rose- 
burg; was  born  in  Perry  county.  Mo.,  July  29,  1837;  was 
married  to  .Sarah  P.  McNeal  in  1861;  came  to  slate  in  1852 
and  to  county  in  1855. 

Jesse  M.  Hockett:  lives  on  Garden  bottom;  is  a  farmer 
and  school  teacher;  was  born  May  25,  1840,  in  Henry  county, 
Iowa;  was  educated  at  Willamette  University;  married  Sarah 


F.  Booth,  August  22,  1877.  Children,  Claud  Gatch,  Clyde 
T.,  Guy  and  Jesse  .M.  .Mr.  Hockett  came  to  Oregon  in  1S47 
and  to  county  in   1865. 

M.  B.  Holmes:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  is  a  stock  raiser; 
crime  to  state  and  county  in  1854;  was  born  in  Herkimer 
county,  New  Vork,  January  8,  1824. 

Dr.  G.  W.  Hoover:  lives  m  Roseburg;  is  a  physician; 
came  to  state  in  1850  and  to  county  in  185S;  was  born  Octo- 
ber 17,  1822,  in  Scott  county,  Kentucky;  was  married  to 
Huldah  E.  Williams.  Children,  Mary  E.,  Lawrence  E., 
William  H.  (deceased).  Rose  E.,  G  W.  Jr.,  Clarence  M., 
Clara  S.  and  Elmer  V. 

George  Hoover:  lives  on  Ten-mile  creek;  post-office, 
Olalla;  is  a  fanner  and-  stock  grower;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1866;  was  born  in  Holmes  county,  Ohio,  January 
2,  1832;  married  Eliza  J.  Peebles,  December  20.  1853. 

John  M.  Hovvaku':  lives  on  -South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a 
farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1880;  was  born  October 
9,  1832,  in  Knox  county.  111.;  was  married  April  2,  1851,  to 
Nancy  A.  Bonner. 

William  Hutson:  lives  on  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1852;  was  born  in  Clay  county, 
Mo.,  January  22,  1813;  married  April  7,  1S44,  to  Louisa 
Crowley. 

James  C.  Hutchison:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1839;  was  born 
October  10,  1835,  in  Henderson  county.  111. ;  was  married  to 
.Sarah  Copeland.  Children,  Myrtle,  Arthur,  Lucy,  James  R. 
and  Fred. 

John  M.  Hunt:  lives  at  Nonpareil;  post-office,  Oakland; 
was  born  January  15,  1826,  in  Wayne  county,  Ind.;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1871;  married  -Sarah  A.  Argabrite.  Chil- 
dren, James  L.,  Rebecca  B.,  Arthur  F.,  Charles  H.,  George 
W.,  Jeptha  V.  and  Herbert  W. 

Nedom  Imbler:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  carpenter  and 
wagon  maker;  was  born  Julyi6,  1820,  in  Rowan  county,  N.  C. ; 
married  October,  1831,  to  Margaret  Jones;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1852.  Children,  J.  W.,  Sarah,  Florence,  Eddie, 
Warren  C.  and  Alvis. 

J.  M.  Ingram:  lives  on  South  Deer  creek;  is  a  farmer;  post 
office  Roseburg;  was  born  in  Arkansas,  December  I,  1847; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1852;  married  Nancy  McLaughlin 
September  24,  [871. 

Kennkr  B.  Ireland:  lives  on  Ten-mile,  post  office  Ol.illa; 
is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower. 

James  D.  Johnson:  lives  in  Riddle;  is  a  merchant;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1874;  was  born  January  14,  1859,  in 
Clay  county,  Missouri;  was  married  December  20,  l88l,  to 
Julia  Ellenburg. 

Harvy  Jones:  lives  five  miles  north  west  of  Roseburg;  is  a 
farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  January  iS,  1839:  in  Boone 
county,  Ind.;  came  to  county  in  1852;  married  August  14, 
1868,  to  Miss  Mary  A.  Duta. 

Isaac  Jones:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  miller;  came  to  state 
in  1852;  was  born  October  22,  1816.  in  Morgan  county,  Ohio. 
Children,  W.  S.,  Nelson  D.,  James  O.,  Nicholas,  Libbie, 
Clarinda,  Sarah  E.  .-^nnie  E.  and  Etna. 

John  Jones:  lives  near  Roseburg,  on  Umpqua  river;  is  a 
farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  in  tJuernsey  county,  Ohio, 
Februarys,  i8i2;'came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  comity  in  1853; 
married  in  1841,  to  Louisa  Imbler. 

Lakayette  Jones:  is  a  carpenter  and  farmer;  came  to 
coast  in  1853,  to  county  and  state  in  1871;  was  born  May  30, 
1833,  in  Boone  county.  Mo.;  was  married  to  .Mrs.  Mary 
Hamilton,  who  at  time  of  last  marriage  had  three  children, 
William,  Allen  and  Margaret. 

John  Kelly:  lives  five  miles  south  of  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer; 
post  office  Roseburg;  was  born  in  county  Donncgal,  Ireland  in 
1842;  arrived  in  this  state  and  county  in  1879. 

George  W.  Kimball:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  county  clerk; 
was  born  in  Orange  county.  New  Hampshire,  in  1847;  came  to 
state  in  1859;  was  married  in  1877,  to  .Miss  May  Moore,  who 
died  three  years  later,  their  only  child  .Maud  died  in  March 
1884. 

James  A.  Kirkendai.L:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  i860;  was  born  in  tirundy  county. 
Mo.,  June  23,  1839;  married  Missouri  Belieu,  January  3,  1864. 

W.  Koamer:  lives  onMyrtle  creek;  is  amiller;came  to  stale 
and   county  in  1877;  was  born  in  Wayne  county,  Ohio,  May 


W.  J.  Kre\ 


a  mcrcha 


APPENDIX. 


state  and  county  in  1866;  was  born  in  Licking  county,  Ohio, 
March  16,  1832;  was  married  to  Ann  E.  Miles.  Children, 
Orrin,  Lucy;  George,  Thomas,  Hannah  and  Clara. 

G.  J.  KuNS:  lives  on  North  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer  and 
miner;  came  to  the  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1853;  was 
born  in  Carroll  county,  Ind.,  March  20,  1838:  was  married 
July  5,  1866,  to  Rebecca  Holland  (deceased),  and  again  mar- 
ried April  2,  1876,  to  Minnie  Mulkey. 

John  Kuykendall:  lives  in  Drain;  is  a  carpenter;  born 
April  14,  1820,  in  Vigo  county,  Ind.;  came  to  state  in  1852, 
and  to  county  in  185^;  married  Janu.ary  20,  1842,  to  Malinda 
.Stark. 

Dr.  William  Kuykendall:  lives  at  Drain;  is  a  physician; 
was  born  at  Wilbur,  Douglas  county,  Oregon,  March  i,  1855; 
was  married  May  18,  1876,  to  Miss  M.  A.  Alysom;  has  four 
children. 

Elihu  J.  Kyks:  lives  in  Looking-glass  valley;  address  is 
Looking-glass;  is  a  mill  right;  was  born  in  Crawford  county, 
Penn.,  in  1832;  came  to  this  state  in  1857,  and  to  county  in 
1865;  was  married  to  Miss  Jane  Sneed,  May  2,  1869. 

Henry  Lander:  lives  south  of  Roseburgon  Umpqua  river; 
is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  post-office  Roseburg;  born  Sep- 
tember 29,  1824,  in  Cornwall,  England;  came  to  coast  in  1853, 
and  to  county  in  I860;  married  May  10,  1863,  to  Nancy  E. 
Jones. 

E.  E.  Laerie:  lives  in  Garden  bottom;  post-office  Wilbur; 
is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser;  is  a  native  of  Douglas  county,  was 
born  September  4,  1858;  married  Miss  Kate  Beale;only  child, 
Ferdinand. 

N.ARCISSE  Laraut:  lives  in  (iarden  bottom;  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  grower;  was  born  near  St.  Johns,  Canada,  May  7, 
1823;  married  March  1856,  to  Amy  B.  Rowley;  came  to  state 
in  1850,  and  to  county  in  1851.  Children,  Jennie  V.,  Clin- 
tona  A.,  Steven  A.,  Alva  R.,  Narcisse,  Charles  T.,  Ida  V., 
Leland,  Ethel  M.  and  Lucy. 

Louis  Langenberg:  lives  at  Roseburg:  is  a  boot  and  .shoe- 
maker, and  dealer  in  boots,  shoes,  etc. ;  was  born  in  Hersfeld, 
Germany,  in  1841;  married  Elizabeth  Goetz,  September  2, 
1S66;  caine  to  state  in  1870,  and  to  this  county  in  1871. 
Children,  Mary,  Sophia,  George,  Daniel,  LaFayette  and 
Edmond. 

David  Lenox:  lives  in  Civil  Bend,  on  Umpqua  river;  is  a 
farmer;  born  March  24,  1S35,  in  Schuyler  county,  111.;  came 
to  Oregon  in  1843,  'o  Douglas  county  in  1878;  married  first 
time  in  1865,  to  Sarah  I.  Campbell;  was  again  married  in  1S79, 
to  M.  A.  Boslinger. 

John  F.  Levens:  was  born  near  Elkton,  Douglas  county, 
September  15,  i852;  is  a  grocery  merchant;  married  Martha 
V.  Snyder.  Children,  Imo  J.,  Walter  F.,  Fannie  A.  and 
Guy  W. 

Jacob  Ledgerwood:  lives  on  Roberts  creek;  post  office 
Roseburg;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  in  Clay 
county.  Mo.,  January  iS,  1844;  came  to  state  in  1866,  and  to 
county  in   1867. 

John  Letsom:  lives  in  Scotts  valley;  post-office  Youcalla; 
occupation  farmer  and  blacksmith;  was  born  in  England, 
March  13,  1828;  came  to  the  United  States  in  1845,  to  state 
and    county  in    1850;  married    Mrs.  Sarah  Lewis,  August  10, 

James  H.  Mahoney:  lives  in  Oakland;  was  born  in  Boone 
county,  Missouri,  December  28,  1829;  came  to  state  in  1853 
and  settled  in  Oakland  in  1861;  married  July,  1866,  to  Mary 
Perdue. 

OrvilleA.  Malton:  lives  near  Drain;  is  a  farmer;  came 
to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1879;  was  born  in  La  Grange 
county,  Indiana,  July  8,  1844;  w.as  married  to  Eliza  Rhodes. 
Children,  Orange,  John,  Angeline,  Catherine,  Hattie,  Annie 
and  Oscar. 

William   Manmnc;:  lives    in  Canyonville;  is  a  merchant. 

Ashkr  Marks:  a  pioneer  merchant  of  Roseburg;  was 
born  in  Poland;  came  to  this  coast  in  1853  and  came  immedi- 
ately to  this  county  and  has  been  closely  identified  with  the 
county  affairs  ever  since;  he  has  always  withstocd  the  charms 
of  the  gentler  sex  and  we  find  him  yet  a  single  man. 

S.  Marks:  lives  in  Canyonville;  is  a  merchant  and  general 
speculator;  was  horn  in  Poland:  came  to  America  in  1850,  to 
California  in  1852  and  to  Oregon  in  1853. 

Albert  A.  Matthews:  lives  in  P'lournoy  valley;  is  a 
me'chant  and  farmer;  was  born  in  Williston,  Chittenden 
county,  Vt.,  November  12,  1822;  was  married  in  1859  to 
Alice  B.  Whisler: 


William  McBee:  lives  six  miles  south  of  Roseburg  on 
South  Umpqua;  is  a  farmer;  was  born  September  11,  1842, 
in  Ray  county,  Missouri;  came  to  coast  in  1852  and  to  county 
in  1857;  married  July  7,  1880,  to  Caroline  A.  Rose, 

D,  C.  McCarty:  lives  in  Canyonville;  is  a  druggist;  came 
to  state  in  1876  and  to  county  in  1878;  was  born  March  15, 
1850,  in  Toronto,  Canada;  married  Miss  Ora  Park,  August 
2,  iSSi. 

Robert  T.  McCulloch:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  carpen- 
ter; came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was  born  October  14, 
1836,  in  Lee  county,  Iowa, 

Daniel  T.  McGuire:  lives  on  Ten  mile,  fifteen  miles 
west  of  Roseburg;  post-office.  Ten-mile;  is  a  farmer;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1853;  was  born  February  28,  1843,  in  Lee 
county,  Iowa. 

Peter  McKinney:  lives  near  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer;  came 
to  state  in  1850  and  to  county  in  1852;  was  born  in  Wayne 
county,  Indiana,  in  1830. 

James  T.  McLain:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a 
farmer;  came  to  state  in  1847  and  to  county  in  1872;  was 
born  February  7,  1832,  in  Boone  county,  Mo.;  married  Olive 
Linville,  October  20,  1864. 

Joseph  McLaughlin:  lives  on  South  Deer  creek;  is  a 
farmer  and  stock  raiser;  post-office,  Roseburg;  was  born  in 
Bourbon  county,  Kentucky,  July  5,  1812;  came  to  state  in 
1853  and  to  county  in  I854. 

George  F.  Merriman:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  black- 
sinith;  was  born  in  Douglas  county,  Oregon,  September  16, 
1856;  married  November  8,  1877,  to  Mary  Murray.  Children, 
Thomas  C,  Mary  L.  and  Creed. 

John  H.  Mires:  lives  on  Calapooia;  post-office,  Oakland; 
is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser;  was  born  January  8,  1823,  in 
Licking  county,  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1853  and  to  county  in 
1854;  was  married  March  27,  1S51,  to  Mrs.  Anna  Byars,  who 
had  at  time  of  this  marriage  three  children,  W.  H.,  Rebecca 
and  Mary.  Mr.  Mires'  children  are  Austin,  Benton.  Anna, 
Maggie,  Addie  and  John. 

Jacob  S.  Miller:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a 
farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1880;  was  born  August 
II,  1862,  in  Vernon  county,  Wis.;  was  married  January  i, 
1883,  to  Miss  Anna  Rader. 

William  T.  Morrison:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a 
fanner;  came  to  state  in  1865  and  to  county  in  1873;  was 
born  April  2,  1850,  in  Jefferson  county,  Iowa. 

William  N.  Moore:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  county  treas- 
urer; was  born  in  Douglas  county,  January  15,  1858;  is  the 
son  of  the  late  Rev.  Samuel  C.  Moore. 

Henry  Morton:  lives  on  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  saloon 
keeper;  came  to  state  in  1851  and  to  county  in  1867;  was 
born  in  Independence  county,  Arkansas,  in  1833. 

Thomas  W.  Morgan:  lives  at  Roseburg;  is  a  dealer  in 
confectionery,  tobaccos,  etc.;  was  born  May  19,  l858,  in 
Douglas  county;  married  October  17,  1883,  to  Cora  L.  Jones. 

James  Murray:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  is  a  stock  grower; 
came  to  state  in  i860  and  to  county  in  1862;  was  born  in 
Greene  county.  Mo.,  April  14,  1829;  married  Sarah  A.  Friend, 
October  14,  1854  (deceased). 

Watson  Mynatt:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  is  a  farmer;  came 
to  state  in  1853  and  to  county  in  1854;  was  born  July  22, 
1822,  in  Knox  county,  Tenn. ;  was  married  June  6,  1852,  to 
Susan  Dean. 

Byron  R.  Mynatt:  lives  on  Ten-mile  creek;  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  raiser;  post-office,  Olalla;  was  born  in  Douglas 
county,  Oregon,  April  19,  1856;  married  April  27,  1881,  to 
Miss  Nancy  McCulloch. 

Sergeant  J.  J.  Nanry,  U.  S.  Army:  was  born  in  New 
York  City;  lives  at  Roseburg  and  is  in  charge  of  the  Signal 
service  station  at  that  place;  was  married  July  8,  1874,  to 
Mary  J.  South,  who  was  born  in  Middlesex  county,  Va.,  March 
4,  1856.  Children,  Edward  S.,  Walter  J.,  George  L.  (de- 
ceased), and  Clara.  Mr.  Nanry  served  a  regular  course  at 
Fort  Myer,  Va.,  where  all  employees  of  the  department  have 
to  be  schooled. 

Thomas  W.  Newland:  lives  on  Ten-mile;  post-office  Ten- 
mile;  is  a  miller;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1853; 
was  born  in  Tyler,  West  Virginia,  November  4,  1S32;  mar- 
ried Anna  Flook,  March  7,  1869. 

David  J.  Noah:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  is  a  farmer; came  to 
state  and  county  in  1855;  was  born  in  Sheridan  county.  Mo., 
July  31,  1842;  married  Mary  A.  Wiley,  October  27,  186S. 

Joshu.^  Nol.\nd:  lives  in  Canyonville;  is  a  miner;  came  to 


515 


slale  in  1851,  and  In  county  in  1858;  was  born  Seplember  ii, 
1831,  in  LaFayette  county,  Mo. 

\V.  G.  W.  Orr:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  in  1853,  and  to  county  in  1869;  was  born  April 
13,  183S,  in  Hardin  county,  Tenn.;  married  Hannah  Strong, 
October  11,  1868. 

1'.  H.  O'Shea:  lives  on  Catchen  creek,  near  Canyonville; 
is  a  farmer;  born  in  Ireland,  in  i843;cameto  America  in  1853; 
arrived  in  Oregon  in  1868,  ami  in  county  in  1878;  married 
Kate  Burke  in  1S76:  has  one  child,  Kate  F. 

Dr.  E.  J.  Pace:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  physician  and  sur- 
geon; was  born  in  Greene  county,  Tenn.,  October  21,  1849; 
graduated  at  Louisville  Medical  and  Jefferson  colleges  F'eb- 
ruary,  1S74;  came  to  Oregon  in  1877;  married  Miss  Theresa 
A.  Lewis,  December  17,  1874.  Children,  Lillie  Lee,  Dora 
F.  and  Edward  J. 

William  E.  Palmer:  was  born  January  6,  1857,  in  Wil- 
bur, Douglas  county,  and  is  a  son  of  Hon.  P.  P.  Palmer,  of 
.Scoitsburg;  was  accidentally  killed,  December  25,  1883,  by 
a  falling  limb  near  Drain,  where  he  was  proprietor  of  sawmill; 
manieil  Jennie  E.  Coats,  .September  19.  1876.  Children, 
Thomas  'E.   and  Carrie  E. 

P.  C.  Parker:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  minister;  was  lieu- 
tenant in  McNican  war;  has  filled  official  positions  from  county 
judge  to  legislator;  was  horn  in  Humphreys  county,  Tenn., 
Octolier  16,  1S09;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in 
1853;  married  October  18,  1828,  to  Mary  H.  Scantling  (de- 
ceased); was  aeain  married  November  8,  i875,  to  Lucy  A. 
Bodyfell,  cousin  of  the  late  James  A.  Garfield. 

W.  R.  Palterson:  lives  at  Scottsburg;  is  a  hotel  keeper; 
was  born  in  Kentucky,  August  24,  1833;  came  to  state  antl 
county  in  1S53;  was  married  February  5,  1864,  to  C.  H.  De- 
laney.  Children,  Annie  E.,  May,  Thomas  and  Edward 
(twins),  and  Lillie. 

Ho.N.  W.  A.  Perkins:  Uves  at  Drain;  is  agent  and  tele- 
graph operator  for  the  R.  R.  Co. ;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1875;  *'^s  born  May  18,  1835,  in  Johnson  county,  Tenn.; 
was  elected  representative  in  1882;  married  Rebecca  J .  Mc- 
Reynolds  March,  1853.  Children,  Leonard,  William  and 
Ernest. 

Philip  Peteks:  lives  on  Deer  creek  five  miles  east  ol 
Roseburg;  is  ;i  ini.ri  mi  ,  lock  grower;  was  born  in  Mont- 
gomery count . ,  \  \  ,  ::  isj:;;  came  to  state  in  1845  and  to 
county  in  185 1  ;  •        :  ■_•  war  in  1848. 

Robert  1 1 -:  li.  .  ,i\  miles  south  of  Roseburg;  post- 
office,  Roseburg;  was  born  in  Chester  county,  Penn.,  May  2, 
1829;  came  to  state  in  1851  and  to  county  in  1852;  is  a 
farmer;  is  married. 

James  S.  Pickeit:  lives  near  Canyonville;  is  a  lumber- 
man; came  to  state  and  county  in  1877;  was  born  November 
15,  1830,  in  Davidson  county,  N.  C.;  married  December  8, 
1853,   to  Martha  Pool. 

J.  E.  Pike:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  merchant;  was  born 
September  5,  1815,  in  Cincinnati,  Ohio;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1872;  married  March,  1838,  to  Miss  A.  D.  Abbey. 
Children,  two.  Married  again  February  29,  1852,  to  Eliza- 
beth Haynes.     Children,  Alva,    Frank  A.  and  Cora. 

William  Pitchkori):  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  painter; 
was  born  in  Hillsborough,  III.;  came  to  state" in  1875  and  to 
county  in  1876;  was  married  March  18,  1876,  to  Viola  M. 
Harmon.  Children,  Mabel  (deceased),  Beatrice,  (deceased), 
Charles  and  Agnes. 

Drury  a.  ProcK:  lives  in  Olalla  valley;  is  a  fanner; 
came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1866;  was  born  in 
Fayette  county.  Mo.,  in  1849. 

Martin  Purkevimle:  lives  near  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  car- 
penter; came  to  slate  and  county  in  1874;  was  born  in  Cham- 
pagne county,  Ohio,  February  25,  1842;  married  September 
II,  1864,  to  Maria  Hall. 

Charles  F.  Putnam:  lives  west  ol  Drain  in  Tin  Pot 
valley;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  was  born  July  7,  1824, 
in  Fayette  county,  Ky.;  is  an  early  arrival  in  the  state;  was 
married  December  7,  1846,  to  Rozella  Applegate.  Children, 
Charles,  Lucinda,  Horace,  Edward,  Cynthia,  Susan  and  Jo- 
seph (twins.) 

W.\i.  Rader:  lives  on  North  Myrtle  creek;  post  oftice  Myr- 
tle creek;  is  a  stock  grower;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1878; 
was  born  in  Van  Buren  county,  Iowa,  January  14,  1861. 

John  RameY:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1879:  was  born  June  iC,  1857,  in 
Pike  county,  Kentucky:  married  Elva  Stewart  March  25,  1SS3. 


Richard  A.  Raper:  lives  on  Oak  creek;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  was  born  in  Guilford  county,  North  Carolina, 
December  30,  1827;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was 
married  to  Mrs.  Rebecca  Thornhill,  January  18,  1855. 

Ephraim  Raymond:  lives  on  Day's  creek;  post-office 
Canyonville;  is  a  farmer;  was  born  in  .Steuben  county.  New 
York,  August  31,  1823;  arrived  in  this  state  in  1851;  married 
Caroline  M.  Leverich,  October  24,  1864. 

D.  Gay  Reed:  lives  on  Garden  Bottom;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office  Wilbur;  was  born  May  14,  1S49,  in  Iowa;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1850. 

James  E.  Rice:  lives  near  Oakland;  is  a  farmer  and  stock 
grower;  came  to  Oregon  in  1S44,  and  to  county  in  1861;  was 
born  in  Upper  Canada,  February  iS,  1812;  was  married  to 
Nancy  Bear. 

Martha  A.  Rice:  lives  on  Rice  creek;  post-office  Civil 
Bend;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853. 

John  A.  Richards:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer;  came  to 
state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1853:  was  born  in  Franklin 
county,  Virginia,  August  30,  181 1;  married  Francis  McCor- 
mack,  April  11,  1829. 

Akner  Riddle:  lives  in  Riddle;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1851;  was  born  October  29,  1841,  in  Sangamon 
county.  III.;  was  married  December  31,  1865,  to  Alice  Rice. 

W.  H.  Riddle:  live.s  on  Cow  creek;  post-office  is  Riddle; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1S51;  was  born  in  Bourbon  county, 
Kentucky. 

Georc.e  Risch:  lives  on  North  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  miner; 
came  to  state  in  1867,  and  to  county  in  1871;  was  born  near 
Strasbourg,  France,  December  15,  1827. 

J.  R.  Roberts:  lives  on  Rice  creek;  post-office  Civil  Bend; 
is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1875;  "'^s  born  in 
Logan  county,  Ky.,  January  30,  1836;  married  December  23, 
1864,  to  Anna  McGee. 

Henry  Roc.ers:  lives  in  Drain,  is  a  carpenter;  came  to 
state  in  1874,  and  to  county  in  1876;  was  born  March  20,  1847, 
in  Canada  West  near  Toronto;  was  married  in  1876,  to  Mary 
Clendenning. 

N.  H.  Rone:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  lumberman;  was  born 
January  3,  1837,  in  Ray  county  Mo. ;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1865;  married  Mary  A.  Copeland,  Januaiy  27,  1857, 
(decea.sed),  they  had  two  children,  one  living;  Sarah  A.; 
married  again  October  6,  1867,  to  Miss  Eliza  J.  Rice,  who 
had  three  children,  America  M.,  Edgar  L.  and  Frank. 

Randolph  T.  Rose:  lives  on  Roberts  creek,  eight  miles 
south  of  Roseburg;  post-office  Roseburg;  was  born  in  Schuyler 
county.  111.,  January  26,  1840;  came  to  coast  in  1847,  and  to 
Douglas  county  in  1855;  was  married  to  Miss  Beaver  in  i86l. 

M.  C.  Buckle:  lives  at  Oak  Grove;  post-office  Myrtle 
creek;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in 
1858;  was  born  in  Baltimore,  Maryland;  married  Mary  Steven- 
son, September  16,  1861. 

E.  C.Sacry:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  an  accountant;  was  born 
October  3,  1831,  in  Greene  county,  Ky.;  came  to  state  and 
county  January  9,  1S78;  married  November  25.  1852,  to 
M  ss  Lucy  J.  Fortune.  Children,  William  A.,  Addie  M., 
Susan  \'.,  Harry  B.,  Maggie,  Carl  B.  and  Edward  C. 

Simon  Selig:  lives  at  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  merchant;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1863;  was  born  in  Prussia  January  7, 
1837;  was  married  February  6,  1866,  to  Helen  Solomon. 

Henry  C.  Shafe:  lives  on  the  North  Umpqua  fourteen 
miles  east  of  Roseburg;  post-office,  Mt.  Scott;  is  a  farmer; 
was  born  in  Wayne  county,  N.  V.,  December  23,  1829;  came 
to  state  and  county  in  1862;  was  married  to  Elizabeth  Kelsey, 
February  27,  1877. 

(Jeoroe  ShamhrooK:  lives  in  Cole's  valley;  is  a  farmer 
and  merchant;  w.is  born  at  Cambridge,  England,  in  1828; 
came  to  state  in  1847  and  to  county  in  1852;  was  married 
November  5,  1855,  to  Lucretia  Ridenour.  Children,  John 
C,  Daniel  R.,  Eli  (deceased),  .Marv  J.,  George  H.,  Hannah 
E.,  Jesse,  Olive  B.  (deceased),  Benjamin  F.,  Wel'.hy  A.  (de- 
ceased), Martha  E.  and  Maud  C. 

David  R.  Shambrook:  lives  in  Cole's  v.illey  about  twenty 
miles  west  of  Ro.seburg;  is  a  farmer;  posl-office,  L'mpi|ua 
F'erry;  was  born  in  Douglas  county,  .\pril  19,  i860;  was 
married  to  Mary  King,  October  18,  1880.  Children,  Flossie 
P.  and  infant. 

Dr.  J.  C.  Shamhrook:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  physician; 
was  born  in  Douglas  county  September  3,  1856;  graduated  in 
Louisville  medical  college.  February  25,  1881. 

R.  L.  SiiEi.l.V:  lives  in    Drain:  is  a  mini>ter:  was  born  in 


516 


APPENDIX. 


Lane  county,  Oregon,  April,  1853;  was  married  to  Miss 
Mary  Gross,  May  7,  1876.  Children,  Daisy  M,,  Jesse  M.  and 
Nettie  B. 

James  F.  Sheffield:  lives  on  South  Umpqua;  -post-office, 
Roseburg;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853; 
was  born  August  5,  1825,  in  Huron  county  Ohio. 

R.  S.  .Sheridan-:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  hardware  mer- 
chant; was  born  in  Roseburg  .September  5,  1859.  Mr.  Sheri- 
dan, with  his  brother,  J.  C,  occupy  the  first  brick  built  in  the 
town. 

Joseph  C.  Sheridan:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  hardware 
merchant;  was  born  in  San  Francisco  February  i,  1855;  was 
married  June  20,  1883  to  Miss  Sarah  Flournoy. 

Thomas  R.  Sherida.n:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  hardware 
merchant:  was  liorn  in  Rochester,  N.  Y.;  is  married.  Chil- 
dren, Minnie  and  Grace. 

John  P.  Sheridan:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  hardware 
merchant;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1857;  was  born  in 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  November  2,  1852. 

Thomas  P.  Sheridan:  lives  on  his  farm  one  mile  south  of 
Roseburg;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1855;  was  the  first 
tinner  that  opened  business  in  the  county;  was  born  in  Cairn 
county,  Ireland,  in  182  j. 

Ed.  F.  Shekidan:  lives  in  Roseburg:  is  a  farmer;  was 
born  May  16,  i8s7,  at  Scottsburg,  Douglas  county;  married 
November  27,  1881,  to  Miss  Alice  Neeves. 

L.  Shori  :  lives  in  Wilbur;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower; 
was  born  in  Hart  county.  Kentucky,  in  1841;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1865;  married  November,  1867,  to  Miss  Annie 
Lii.xon,     Children,  Eliz.ibeth  and  Nellie. 

John  H.  Shupe:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  merchant;  was 
born  in  Cass  county.  Mo.,  April  26,  1850;  came  to  state  in 
1853  "infl  to  county  in  1854;  married  September  16,  1877,  to 
-Miss  .Mary  E.  Kruse.  Children,  Leona  E.,  .Marsjaret  \Y.  and 
Rachel  G.' 

William  Silvers:  lives  on  Ten-mile  creek;  post-office, 
Olalla;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was 
born  April  25,  1S33,  in  Wayne  county,  Ind,;  married  Mary 
Simmons  September  29,  1S62. 

J.  B.  Smith:  lives  on  Cl,,!  '.  1;,  ,,,!,:  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office.  Myrtle  creek;  was  I  ,  I  ,  I  ^,  1 8 16,  in  Madison 
county,  Ky.;  came  to  st.ii.  i\:  ,,  i  lo  county  in  1870; 
married  February  6,  1S40.  1-  !  ur.]^  I  :,..,p.  Children,  Cin- 
derella. William  O.  (deceased),  Melissa  J.,  Mary,  Emily, 
Ellen,  G.  D.,  John  D.,  Fleeta,  Lennie  L.,  Louisa,  Marcus  B. 
and   infant. 

B.  D.  Smith:  lives  at  Wilbur;  is  a  teacher;  was  born  in 
La  Salle  county.  III.,  November  25,  1854;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1S74. 

George  A.  S.mith;  lives  in  Camas  valley;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  in  1857  and  to  county  in  1870;  was  born  in 
Genesee  county,  N.  Y.,  February  3,  1835. 

Mrs.  Susan  Smith:  lives  on  South  Umpqua  near  Myrtle 
creek. 

Charles  W.  Smith:  livps  li,,-  milns  south  of  Roseburg; 
post-office,  Roseburg;  is  :,  I  ■■.'..,■  1  ,,<  i.ck  raiser;  was  born 
in  England,  February  17,  l-j;;  ,,  ,  ,  siate  in  1850  and  to 
county  in  1851;  wasemll^.^  .i  -,,  ,:i-,  i;iuspaper  published  in 
Oregon. 

W.  R.  Smith:  was  born  March  4.  1812,  in  Shenandoah 
county,  Virginia;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1864;  post-office, 
Oakland;  married  May,  1843,  t"  Winnie  H.  Williams.  Chil- 
dren, Edward  M.,  Henrietta  (deceased),  Adolphus,  Lucy  M., 
Alonzo  M.,  Alfonzo  A.,  Flavins,  Nancy  A.,  Alice  G.,  Susan, 
Eliza  F.  and  Walter  S. 

Jacob  B.  Spaur:  lives  five  miles  south  of  Roseburg;  post-" 
office,  Roseburg;  is  a  farmer;  was  born  in  Lewis  county,  Va., 
January  9,  1825;  came  to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1S53. 

A.  F.  Stearns:  lives  at  Oakland;  is  a  merchant;  was  born 
October  24,  1854,  in  Douglas  county,  Oregon;  was  married 
October  2,  188 1,  to  Miss  Nannie  E.   ChenowetlV. 

(iEORCE  W.  Stephens:  lives  on  Calapooia;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office,  Oakland;  was  born  in  Douglas  county,  Oregon, 
November  19,  1856;  married  October  22,  1S82,  to  Miss   Belle 

G.  H.  Stevenson-:  lives  at  Oak  Grove;  post-office.  Myrtle 
creek;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1853;  was  born  in  Hopkins  county,  Ky..  May  4,  1836; 
married  Mary  A.  Roberts,  October  19,    1866. 

Thomas  Strode:  lives  on  South  Myrtle  creek;  was  born 
July  2,  1863,  in  Polk  county,   Oregon. 


Dr.  D.  S.  Slrvker;  lives  in  Drain;  is  a  physician  and 
dentist;  was  born  in  Strykerville,  Wyoming  county,  N.  Y., 
June  19,  1835;  came  to  slate  in  1866  and  to  county  in  1876; 
owns  first  brick  building  built  in  Drain;  was  married  to  Miss 
Celia  M.  Stone,  February  22,  1864.  Children,  Stanton  W., 
Ola  M.,  George  W.,   Guy,  Ray  S.  and  Pearl  D. 

Sampson  Sutherlin:  lives  at  Fair  Oaks  near  Oakland;  is 
a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1850; 
married  June  23,  1861,  to  Lucy  A.  Parris.  Children,  Irene 
J.  (deceased).  Lulu  A.,  John  H.,  William  F.,  Emma,  .Mary 
A.,  Charles  E.  and  Sampson. 

G.  A.  Taylor:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  telegraphist  and 
postmaster;  was  born  near  Albany,  Oregon,  February  22, 
1S55;  came  to  county  in  1872;  married  May  7,  1874,  to  Miss 
E.  J.  Hall.     One  child,  Eva. 

L.AWSON  Thomas:  lives  in  Canyonville;  is  a  mail  contrac- 
tor; came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in  1854;  was  born 
July  3,  1839,  in  Harrison  county,  Indiana;  married  September 
1S65,  to  Mrs.  Isabella  Dysart. 

Louis  T.  Thompson:  lives  in  Coles'  valley;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office,  Umpqua  Ferry;  was  born  in  Logan  county,  Illi- 
nois, December  14,  1842;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1S58; 
was  married  September  8,  1867,  to  Missouri  A.  Wright. 
Children,  Olive,  Minnie,  Laura,  Edward,  Leonora, William  O., 
Mary,  Louis  and  John  M. 

W.  H.  Thompson:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  post-office 
Camas;  was  born  in  Douglas  county,  Oregon,  August  4,  1S61. 

Ja.mes  W.  Thornton:  lives  in  Looking-glass  valley;  is  a 
farmer;  post-office.  Looking-glass;  was  born  in  DeKalb  coun- 
ty, Missouri,  in  1839;  was  married  in  1865,  to  .Mary  A.  Scotl. 
They  have  a  family  of  eight  children. 

JOSEPH  B.  TiPTON:  lives  on  North  Umpqua;  post-office, 
Mt.  Scott;  is  a  farmer  and  miller;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1854:  was  burn  in  Blunt  county.  Mo.,  August  16,  1847; 
married  [uly  10,   1866,  to  Ellen  Strader. 

Ferdinand  M.  Tip-rON:  lives  on  North  l'mpt|ua:  is  a 
farmer,  miller  and  stock  raiser:  post-v^lTicc.  Mt.  Scutu  «as 
born  in  Benton  county,  .Mo.,  May  24,  1S51:  came  to  --u  le  in 
1853,  and  to  county  in  1854:  was  married  to  Linnie  .Miller 
June  30,  1880. 

William  C.  Tipton:  Uves  near  North  Umpqua;  is  a 
farmer  and  stock  raiser:  post-office,  Mt.  Scott;  was  born  in 
Benton  county.  Mo.,  June  12,  1852;  came  to  state  in  1853, 
and  to  county  in  1854;  was  married  to  Eliza  A  May,  Septem- 
ber 19,  1883. 

William  Trask:  lives  on  North  Umpqua;  is  a  farmer 
and  stock  raiser;  post-oflice,  Mt.  Scott;  was  born  in  Franklin 
county,  Mass.,  in  1814;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1852;  was 
married  to  Lucy  P.  Doolittle,  August  10,  1851. 

James  A.  Velzian:  lives  in  Civil  Bend;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office,  Roseburg;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1859;  was  born 
February  22,  1837,  in  Nova  Scotia;  was  married  November 
6,  1862,  to  Sarah  McBee.     Six  children  in  family 

James  Ward:  lives  on  Pass  creek,  near  Drain;'  is  a  farm- 
er; came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was  born  February  3, 
1841,  in  Johnson  county,  Iowa;  was  married  to  Rosa  ^nlauf 
One  child,  Clara. 

C.  L.  Walk:  lives  in  Canyonville;  is  a  physician;  came 
to  state  in  1873,  and  to  county  in  1882;  was  born  1857,  in 
Placerville,  Eldorado  county,  Cal. 

John  L.  Watson:  lives  on  the  east  fork  of  North  Ump- 
qua, about  twenty  miles  east  of  Roseburg;  post-office,  Mt. 
Scott;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser;  was  born  in  Garnavilla, 
Iowa,  June  4,  1852;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1S53. 

Mrs.  Emily  Watson:  was  born  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  N. 
Y.,  March  26,  1818,  and  was  married  to  James  Watson,  Octo- 
ber 15,  1835.  In  company  with  her  husband  and  family  she 
crossed  the  plains  in  1853,  and  settled  in  Lane  county,  but 
came  to  this  county  in  1854,  and  setted  on  her  farm  on  the 
east  fork  of  the  North  Umpqua,  where  she  has  since  lived. 
Her  husband,  James  Watson,  died  some  years  ago. 

Edwin  Weaver:  lives  on  Myrtle  creek;  post-office,  Myrtle 
creek;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  raiser;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1853;  was  born  in  Washington  county.  III.,  in  184S. 

William  W.  Wells:  lives  in  Elkton;  is  a  lawyer  by  pro- 
fession; was  born  in  Rock  Island  county,  Illitlois,  January  17, 
1830;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1851;  has  served  as  treas- 
urer and  school  superintendent;  commenced  the  practice  of 
law  in  1861,   but  has  since  withdrawn  from  practice. 

Solomon  II.  Way:  lives  southeast  ol  Roseburg;  post- 
office,  Roseburg;  i«  a  farmer;  came  to  state   in   1869,  and  to 


APPENDIX. 


517 


county  in  1S70;  was  born  in  Clinton  county,  Ohio,  in  iSli; 
was  married  in  1834  to  Mary  Hodson  Koone. 

Davih  S.  West:  lives  in  Garden  valley,  west  uf  Rose- 
burg;  is  a  farmer  and  stock  grower;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1S55;  was  born  in  1S47  in  Deliance  count\,  Ohio. 

JosiRUs  Wkst:  lives  on  Ten  Mile;  is  a  miner;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1861;  was  born  in  Harrison  county,  Ken- 
tucky. May  28,'  1825;  married  May,  1875,  '«  Mrs.  Elizabeth 
Higgins. 

William  R.  Wells:  lives  on  Ten-mile  creek;  is  a  mer- 
chant: post-office.  Olalla;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to 
coiiiiix  111  1S5;:  wa^  liorn  in  Des  Moines  county,  Iowa,  Aug. 
8,  iN4J.   iniiMi   i  liiialine  Tedrow,  April  12,  1S63. 

I  AMI  I.  W  I  w  1  K:  lives  on  Missouri  bottom;  post-office, 
MmiIc  .  i.:Lk;  I,  .1  lanner:  came  lo  state  and  county  in  l85o; 
wa>lH.ni  ill  W.llianis.in  iMunU.  Tennessee,  April  13,  1832; 
married  May  3-   'SS".  t..>ara!i  A.   Ilailey. 

Si.MF.ON  W  IIF.EI.KU:  idricascdi  Inrmerly  lived  at  Roseburg; 
was  a  I'armer;  and  born  near  Boston,  Mass..  September  I, 
iSj;;  came  to  state  and  county  in  l853;was  married  February 
14.  iS^o,  to  Esther  Clark.  Children,  Levant  C,  Walter, 
Kmiiia'and  Elmer. 


August    1870.       riiiMi.    ,  I    ,      .     \|ii..;ai-et    A.,    Joseph    I.., 

Charles  W.,  John  1'..   I  ~           -  li  and  George  F. 

E.    F.   Whisi.ek:     i  1         mij-glass;   is  a  carpenter; 

came  to  state    in  1852.  ji    i    : miiyin    1S54;  was    born  in 

Tii'i  .    \\ .    \\iNNii--ORD:    lives    on    Calapooia:   post-office 
Oaklaii'l;  i-  a  liiin.r:  born  in  Addington,  Washington  county, 
iS:;r,:  rame  to  state   and  county  in  1871; 
11.   1^    |.   to  Margaret  E.  Bruner.     Chil- 
I  ,  John  A.,  Mary  E.,  Joseph   E., 


Virginia,  .Vii; 
married  iJc^ 
dren,  Gemi; 
Robert  L.,  ^ 
Enoch  W 
and  stock  rai 
county,  M.I., 
state  in  1S40 


on  North  Umpqua;  is  a  faimer 

Is  Mt.  Scott;  was  born  in  Lincoln 

,.   I     ;  >:  arrived  in  Marion  county  of  this 

iM   I..  I  Ins  county  in  1854;  was  married  to 

Aaiii;,    \     \1  :i      .    s,  ,„ember3,  1857. 

W  :  I      \,  i\siON:  lives  six  miles  south  of  Roseburg; 

is  a  h  1  :   Ais  born  April  29,  1838.  in  Albany  county, 

N.  \    ;  I,  in   1862,  and  to  county  in   1866;  married 

Fil'i  I  .  ;.  i  VI,  10  Agnes  M.  Rice.  Mr.  Winston  is  ex- 
toii-i  ;:  Iruit  growing. 

\\     i     \\  lives  in  Riddle;  keeps  a  grocery  store;  came 

tn  sii:,  .ml  1  iiiityin  1880;  was  born  June  11,  1811,  in 
Kanauiia  county.  West  Virginia;  married  August  1833,  to 
Mary  F.  Henson. 

W.  L.  Wil.so.N:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  post-office  Riddle; is  a 
farmer  and  stock  grower;  came  to  state  in  1845,  and  to  county 
in  1853;  was  born  May  3,  1832,  in  Clay  county,  Missouri; 
married  to  Iludda  Mynatt  (deceased)  December  24,  1854;  was 
again  married  May  5,  1861,  to  Harriet  Haskins. 

FoREY   A.  Williams:  lives  in   Looking-glass   valley;  is  a 


farmer  and  tinsmith;  botn  November  12,  1854,  in  Looking- 
glass  valley;  married  November  21,  1878,  to  Julia  E.  Buell, 
only  child,  Jesse,  born  August  23,  1879. 

Henry  Wiley:  lives  on  North  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  in  1S52,  and  to  county  in  1853;  was  born  in  I'ike 
county,  Ohio,  December  13,  1S21;  married  June  9,  1S59,  to 
Mrs.  Daisy  A.  Milliken. 

Jekffrscn  Wiley:  lives  on  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1872;  was  born  in  Logan  county, 
111.,  August  24,  1849;  was  married  to  Henrietta  Jones,  Novem- 
ber II,  1874. 

William  T.  Woodson:  lives  on  Round  Prairie;  post-office 
Roseburg;  is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  in  1S50,  and  to  county  in 
1851;  was  born  in  Benton  county.  Mo.,  July  2,  1841;  married 
November  19,  1876. 

A.  W.  W'OOLLY:  lives  on  Day's  creek;  is  a  boot  and  shoe- 
maker; post-ofF.ce  Canyonville;  born  in  Norfolk,  Virginia, 
July  10,  1821;  came  to  Oregon  in  1842,  then  in  the  employ  of 
the  American  Fur  Company;  married  to  J.  Chamberlain  in 
1868. 

Willia.m  J.  WORLEV:  livfes  at  Canyonville;  is  a  miner; 
born  in  Buncombe  county.  North  Carolina,  July  4,  1834; 
1111.  i  in  state  and  county  in  1859;  married  Jane  Fiddes, 
[  S,  1863.     Children,  Joseph  W.  and  Mary  J. 

'  IN  W.    Wright:  lives   in   French  Settlement;  is   a 

liiiiMi;  Has  born  July  7,  1859,  in  Douglas  county,  Oregon; 
married  May  I,  iSSr,  to  Nettie  Williams. 

Hiram  F.  Wright:  lives  on  Cow  creek;  post-office  Can- 
yonville; is  a  farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1S74;  "iis 
born  November  9,  1850  in  Ohio;  married  Octrdjer  9,  1875,  'o 
Mary  BoUenbaugh. 

Joshua  Wright:  lives  on  North  Myrtle  creek;  is  a  miner; 
came  to  state  and  county  in  1853,  was  born  in  Lincoln  county, 
Ohio,  November  12,  1827;  married  to  Miss  Emma  Jones, 
November  9,  1877. 

William  F.  Wright:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  book  keeper; 
was  born  February  8,  1848,  in  Linn  county,  Missouri;  came 
to  state  in  1852  and  to  coimty  in  1853;  married  November  22, 
1868,  to  Miss  Amanda  E.  Williams  who  died  February  22, 
1871,  had  one  child;  married  again  September  25,  1872,  to 
Miss  \Larietta  Williams,  who  died  December  18,  1879;  children, 
William  W.,  Una.M.,  Esther  P.  and  Lester.  Married  third 
time,  to  Fannie  E.  Wright,  July  14,  1883. 

Ambrose  C  Young:  lives  in  Oakland;  is  a  livery  stable 
keeper;  .         •     .-  .     ^   .  « 


1853,   and  to  county  m    i> 
Pauline  Reed;  have  .an   rh, 

J.  C.  VoONG:liN.sa.  II, 
Illinois,  February  4.  1S44; 
March  20,  1865.  Childr 
(deceased),  and  Manna. 

L.  H.  ZiGLRR:  lives  in  Roseburg;  is  a  hotel  keeper;  came 
to  state  in  1850;  and  to  county  in  1873;  was  born  in  Detroit 
county,  Virginia;  inarried  Sarah  Plymale.  Children,  Charles 
P.,  Zelia  Kate  (deceased),  Fred.M.,  Michael  (deceased),  Lew, 
Paul  and  Claud. 


July  13,  1830;  came  I 

»  IS  married  May  6,    1866,  to 

ivniisH. 

\v  IS  liorn  in  Christian  county, 
married  to  Miss  Agnes  Shaw, 
Margaret    (deceased),   Jos'^ph 


COOS  COUNTY. 


'  C.  Andrews:  a  resident  of  Coquille  City,  where  he  is  en- 
gaged in  the  general  grocery  business,  in  connection  with 
which  he  is  the  postmaster  of  that  town;  he  came  to  Coos 
county  in   1872. 

Samuel  Ai'pleton:  lives  on  Coi|uille  river:  came  to 
county  with  his  mother  in  1873;  is  about  twenty-four  years  of 
age. 

H.  M.  Backensto:  lives  in  Marshfield;  is  a  music  teacher; 
was  born  in  Albany,  Oregon. 

Rev.  C.  p.  BaileY:  lives  at  Sumner;  is  a  minister;  came 
to  state  in  1852  and  to  county  in  1874;  was  born  ni  Missouri; 
married  December  1871,  to  Mary  J.  Stephenson.  Children, 
Winnie  G.,  Martha  J.,  Charles  E.,  Samuel  M.  and  Cassie  M. 

J.  F.  Barrows:  lives  on  the  Coquille;  is  engaged  in  sal- 
mon canning;  came  to  state  in  1847  and  to  county  in  1883; 
went  to  relieve  the  Whitman  party  after  the  memorable  mass- 
acre; has  six  children. 

S.  L.  Bei.ieu:  lives  on  the  Coquille  river;  post-office, 
Norway;  was  born  in  Piatt  county,  Mo.,  in  1837;  is  married; 
has  four  children,  Ella,  John  1).,  Lulu  and  Lloyd. 


George  Bennett:  came  to  Coquille  in  1873;  settled 
about  one  mile  below  Bandon  ferry  on  land  first  selecte<l  by 
Thomas  Low,  being  the  first  donation  claim  taken  in  this  sec- 
tion of  country;  is  a  native  of  Ireland  and  a  man  of  large  in- 
telligence, author  of  the  history  of  Bandon,  Ireland,  a  very 
creditable  work;  he  is  justice  of  peace  (or  the  precinct. 

J.  D.  Bennett:  lives  at  Coquille;  is  a  miller;  came  to 
county  in  1879;  was  born  in  Fayette  county.  III.;  is  married; 
has  two  children. 

W.  A.  Border:  was  born  in  Pennsylvania  in  1832;  came 
to  slate  and  county  in  1877;  married  in  1854  to  Miss  Marie 
Hopkins,  of  London,  England.  Children,  Alonzo,  Albert 
and  Eva. 

G.  Browne:  lives  with  his  family  in  Coquille  city;  is  a 
painter;  came  to  the  coast  in  1873. 

G.  A.  Brown:  was  born  in  Lyon  county,  Ky.,  in  1S33; 
came  to  state  and  county  September,  1861:  was  married  to 
Miss  M.  J.  Hill,  of  Lyon  county,  Ky.  Children,  John  W., 
Tames  C,  Ann  E.,  Daniel  IL,  R.  E  L.,  G.  S.,  Glenn  .ind 
Cora. 


APPENDIX. 


W.  H.  BuNCH:  lives  in  Coquille;  is  a  native  of  Kansas; 
married  Miss  Lizzie  Roberts,    June  i6,  1881.     One  child. 

A.  L.  BUEI.L:  was  born  in  Cincinnatti,  Ohio,  in  1S47; 
came  to  Oregon  in  1852,  and  to  his  present  location  on  Catch- 
ing creek  in  1881,  where  he  is  engaged  in  sheep  raising;  mar- 
ried and  has  two  children,  Eva  B.  and  Nora. 

John  W.  Caldwell:  lives  in  Eckley;  is  a  stock  raiser; 
post-office,  Eckley;  was  born  May  11,  1853,  in  Missouri; 
came  to  state  in  1864,  and  to  county  in  1871;  married  March 
29,  1879,  to  Christenia  B.  Majory.  Children,  Grace  B., 
Mary  M.  and  infant. 

William  Carothers:  lives  in  Coquille  city;  is  a  mer- 
chant and  a  native  of  Douglas  county;  came  to  Coquille 
in  1871. 

K.  K.  CoLWELL:  lives  at  Coquille;  is  a  boot  and  shoe 
maker;  came  to  county  in  187 1. 

John  Church:  lives  in  MarshfieM;  is  publisher  of  a  news- 
paper; came  to  state  and  county  in  iSSi;  is  a  native  of  Indi- 
ana; married  in  1S67,  to  Mary  B.  Parker. 

Charles  E.  G.  Deitz:  lives  at  Myrtle  Point;  was  born 
in  Hanover,  Germany,  in  1829;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1865;  married  March  30,  1868,  to  Mary  E.  Wilber.  Chikh'en, 
Joseph,  Lizzie  E.,  William  E.,  Samuel  E.,  Grace  E.,  Jane 
E.  (deceased),  and  Johanna  E. 

W.  L.  Dixon:  was  born  in  Maine  in  1849;  came  to  county 
in   1875;  is  a    merchant;    was  married   in    1881  to    Fanny  G. 
Lehnherr.     Children,  M.  M.  and  Merrilk 
.    D.  DoNELSON:  lives  on  the    Coquille   where  he  settled  in 
1868;  is  a  mechanic;  was  married  in  1872  to  Miss  Thrush. 

David  Drew:  lives  in  Coquille  city;  is  a  blacksmith;  is  a 
nephew  of  T.  B.  Willard,  the  lounder  of  Coquille  city. 

John  B.  Dudley:  lives  in  Sumner,  and  was  the  founder 
of  that  town;  is  a  merchant;  came  to  state  in  1850  and  to 
county  in  1854;  was  born  in  Pittsburg.  Penn. ;  and  married 
in  January,  1875,  to  Henrietta  Higley.  Children,  Charles, 
Willie,  Minta,  Herbert  and  Edward. 

Dr.  George  D.  Elgin:  lives  at  Myrtle  Point;  was  born 
in  Kentucky;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1870;  isaphysician. 

Jacob  Fouts:  lives  near  Coquille  city;  is  a  logger;  was 
born  in  Douglas  county,  Oregon;  came  to  this  county  in  186S 
and  has  a  farm  on  Cunningham  creek. 

Martin  L.  Friend:  lives  at  Camas  valley;  is  a  mechanic; 
was  born  in  Iowa;  came  to  state  in  i860. 

J.  F.  Fuller:  lives  in  Bandon;  is  a  carpenter;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1877. 

George  Grube:  lives  at  Grube's  mill;  post-office,  Ran- 
dolph; was  born  in  Germany;  came  to  state  in  1859  and  to 
county  in  1866;  is  single  and  54  years  of  age;   is  a  merchant. 

William  Hall:  fives  at  Marshfield;  is  a  surveyor;  was 
born  in  Green  county,  Tenn. ;  came  to  state  in  1850  and  to 
county  in  1870;  was  married  October  5,  1851,  to  Martha  Cox. 
Children,  J.  F.,  J.  T.,  A.  J.,  Ida  P.,  Sarah  A.,  Mary  M. 
and  Walter  St.  Clair,  an  adopted  son. 

John  Hambloch:  lives  on  Coquille  river;  was  born  in 
Seigne,  West  Phalin,  Prussia,  July  9,  1829;  came  to  America 
in  1849  and  to  county  in  1854;  was  married  in  Port  Orford  in 
185610  Miss  Jane  A.  Long.  Children,  Mary  E.  (deceased), 
Malinda  N.,  John  A.  and  Mary  C. 

ThoiMAS  p.  Hanley:  lives  on  the  Coquille  where  became 
in  1868;  married  Miss  Dora  A.  L.  Schroeder,  in  1881.  One 
child,  a  son. 

Captain  W.  H.  Harris:  lives  on  South  Coquille  river; 
post-office.  Myrtle  Point;  was  born  in  Howard  county.  Mo., 
January  9,  1823;  came  to  state  in  1850  and  to  county  in  1853; 
married  December  24,  1858,  to  Margaret  Romanes.  Chil- 
dren, Mary,  Elizabeth  and  Christenia.  Captain  Harris 
served  in  the  Mexican  and  Southern  Oregon  wars. 

Richard  Haughton:    lives  near   Norway;    came  to  the 
was  born  in  England. 


1 1       I  III.;  lives  near  Norway;  is   a  log   contractor; 

III  SSo;  was  born  in  France. 
-     I  I  :   lives  in   Coquille  city;    is  a  painter;  was 

^      '  II        11  Territory;  came  to   Oregon   in  1868  and 
arried  August  17,    I882,  to  Julia  C. 


A'owel.     One  child,  George. 

E.  Henkendorff:  lives  on  the  Coquille;  is  a  mechanic; 
came  to  county  in  18S0;  married  Miss  Clara  Gillman. 

Frank  P.  Hermann:  lives  at  Myrtle  Point;  is  a  clerk  and 
photographer;  was  born  in  Lonaconing,  Alleghany  county, 
Md.,  came  to  state  and  county  in  1S59;  married  Emma  K. 
Hull  March  13,  1883. 


Joseph  Hudson:  lives  at  Sumner;  is  a  carpenter;  came  to 
state  in  1847  and  to  county  in  1875;  was  married  April, 
1867,  to  Margaret  Wheeler.  Children,  Mary,  Abbie,  Eliza, 
Josephine,  John,  Inez  and  Joseph. 

Thomas  N.  Johnson:  Uves  in  Sumner;  is  a  blacksmith; 
came  to  state  in  1S70,  and  to  county  in  187 1;  was  married  in 
1857  to  Frances  M.  Stevens.  Children,  Thomas  W.,  George 
W.;  Katie  J.,  Ira,  Russell  and  Sadie  F.  Three  of  the  family 
are  deceased— Sarah,  Ira  and  Cora  B. 

Edward  Jennings:  lives  at  Empire  City,  is  a  school 
teacher;  came  to  state  in  1847,  and  to  county  in  1870;  mar- 
ried November  20,  1880,  to  Maud  Fetter.  Children,  Law- 
rence B.  and  Clara  E. 

James  Jenson:  lives  in  Parkersburg;  is  a  fisherman;  was 
born  in  Denmark  in  1850;  came  to  the  United  States  in  1868, 
and  to  Coquille  in  1875. 

William  Jenkins:  lives  on  Enchanted  Prairie;  post-of- 
fice, Angora:  is  a  farmer;  was  born  in  Hopkins  county,  Ky., 
in  1S32;  came  to  state  in  1844  and  to  county  in  1S53. 

Alexander  Jackson:  lives  on  Coquille  river;  was  born 
in  Illinois  in  1834;  married  to  Miss  Williams,  in  1859;  came 
to  Oregon  in  1879.     Children,  Mary  A.  and  Agnes. 

George  W.  Lanieve;  came  to  the  Coquille  in  1864;  is  a 
hotel  and  saloon  keeper;  was  married  January  18,  1877,  to 
Susan  F.  Wagner,  one  child,  Daisy. 

Jesse  Lanievr:  lives  on  Bear  creek  near  Coquille;  is  a 
farmer;  post-office  Parkersburg;  was  married  in  1878,  to  Miss 
Pruit. 

James  Laird:  was  born  in  Jefferson  county,  N.  Y.,  in 
1832;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1875;  was  married  to  Mrs. 
C.  A.  Harry,  in  1875.  Children,  Walter  M.,  Joseph  L. 
and  Carl  E. 

Milton  R.  Lee:  was  born  in  Looking  Glass,  Douglas 
county,  Oregon,  March  29,  1863,  and  moved  with  his  parents 
in  1873,  to  Coquille  in  Coos  county,  where  he  is  engaged  in 
farming. 

T.  A.  Lewis:  came  to  the  county  in  1S64;  post-office,  Ban- 
don; was  for  eight  years  mail  carrier  between  Gardiner  and 
Port  Orford. 

John  Lever:  lives  at  Sumner;  is  a:  logger;  came  to  state 
and  county  in  1862;  is  a  native  of  New  Brunswick;  was  mar- 
ried December  7,  1856,  to  Betsey  M.  Chase.  One  child,  Per- 
cy Chase. 

Judge  D.  J.  Lowe:  came  to  Coquille  river  in  1856,  and 
brought  his  wife  in  1858.  They  have  six  children,  all  of 
whom  were  born  on  the  Coquille,  the  eldest  daughter,  Mrs. 
Walcot,  was  born  April  1859  and  was  the  first  white  child 
born  on  the  Coquille. 

A.  J.  Mack:  lives  near  Norway;  is  an  engineer:  post-office 
Norway;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1874;  has  a  wife  and  five 
children. 

Geo.  W.  Martin:  lives  on  Coos  river;  is  a  logger;  post- 
office  Marshfield;  was  born  in  1858  in  Iowa;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1874;  married  September  2,  1883,  to  Laura  E.  Ben- 
nett. 

Robert  L.  Marti  ndale:  lives  in  Camas  valley;  is  a 
farmer;  post-office  Camas  valley;  is  a  native  of  Douglas  county, 
Oregon . 

R.  Mathison:  lives  in  Coquille;  is  a  shoe  maker;  came  to 
county  in  1874;  is  a  married  man,  and  doing  an  extensive 
business  in  the  boot  and  shoe  line. 

Sol.  McClosky:  lives  near  Norway;  came  to  Coquille  river 
October  1876,  has  held  office  of  justice  of  the  peace  and  post- 

JOHN  McIsaacs:  lives  at  Marshfield;  is  a  teamster;  was 
born  in  British  America  in  1835;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1864. 

G.  Mehl:  was  born  in  Germany,  in  1823;  is  a  brewer; 
arrived  in  Philadelphia,  Penn.,  in  iS44;cameto  state  in  1850, 
and  to  Coos  county  in  1876;  was  married  in  1868,  to  Mary 
Harney.  Children,  Fred,  Mary,  William,  Thomas  and 
George. 

Hon.  William  Morris:  lives  near  Coquille  city;  where  he 
located  with  his  family  in  December  1872;  he  is  a  native  of 
England;  was  nominated  by  the  republicans  in  1880  for  legis- 
lature and  elected;  was  re-elected  in  1882. 

John  T.  Moulton:  lives  at  Coquille  city;  is  a  merchant; 
came  to  Coquille  in  1S65,  is  a  native  of  Maine. 

Oden  Nelson:  lives  at  Norway;  is  one  of  the  founders  of 
this  place,  located  here  in  1873:  i>  a  merchant. 

William    Oddv:    lives   at    Myrtle     Point;  is  a  telegraph 


APPENDIX. 


519 


operator,  clerk  and  salesman;  came  to  the  Coquille  in  1875; 
has  had  some  experience  in  mail  contracting. 

T.  G.  Owen:  is  a  lawyer;  came  to  this  county  in  1S73;  was 
admitted  to  the  bar  in  1874. 

C.  F.  \V.  Von  Peuert:  was  born  in  Prussia;  is  a  mechanic; 
post-office,  Coquille;  came  to  Coos  bay  in  1869,  ?ince  which 
time  he  has  resided  there;  married  to  Miss  Perkins  in  1874. 

Otto  H.  1'rey:  lives  at  Myrtle  Point;  is  a  merchant;  was 
born  in  Prussia  March  20,  1S39;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1877;  was  married  in  1873  to  Louisa  Plitt.  Children,  Au- 
}»u=ta  Emily,  i!.  Frank,  Bertha  and  Otto. 

Cai'TAI.n  O.  Reed:  lives  at  Norway,  a  little  "burg" 
named  by  the  Captain  in  honor  of  his  native  country;  has  a 
general  merchandise  store  at  this  place;  he,  wiih  his  brother, 
built,  in  1878,  the  little  craft   Ceres. 

J.  C.  RoiiiNSON:  lives  on  North  Coos  river;  is  a  farmer: 
post-office,  Marshtield;  came  to  state  in  1850  and  to  county 
in  i860;  was  married  in  1873;  has  eight  children. 

Stephen  Rogers:  lives  on  South  Coos  river;  is  a  farmer 
and  merchant;  post-office,  Marshfield;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  i87o;  was  born  in  Danbytown,  Vt.;  married  in 
1S60  to  Adelia  Parker.  Children,  H.  H.,  Cynthia  A.,  Frank 
E.,  Emma  J.  and  Xellie  J. 

James  \V.  Rooke:  lives  on  North  Coos  river;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office,  .Marshheld;  came  to  state  in' 1S52  and  to  county  in 
1853;  was  born  in  Dublin,  Ireland;  married  in  1863  to  Helen 
Gurney.  Children,  Thomas  R.,  Eliza  E.,  James  W.  and 
Rosaltha  E. 

AuRA.M  Rose:  lives  at  Black  sand  mines;  is  a  miner;  post- 
office.  Kand.jiph:  c.-ime  to  state  in  1858  and  to  county  in  1871: 
is  man  1.  ■!:   !i.i-  \w.  .laughters. 

li.   I      I  "11    Ross   slough    near   Marshfield;  is  a 

faiiiiLi  ,::,  .  :.  :,.  I ;  came  to  state  in  1850  and  to  county  in 
1853;  u.i,  ...:.'.:  11,  Indiana;  was  married  October  10,  1864,  to 
Rhoda  1;.  Duncbrakc.      One  child,  George  F. 

A.  H.  Sak(;ent:  lives  on  Coquille  river;  is  a  farmer; 
came  to  county  in  1874,  where  he  has  since  resided. 

EiJWARD  E.  Scales:  lives  in  Coquille  city;  is  a  clerk  and 
broker;  came  to  state  in  1S56;  has  lived  in  this  county  twenty- 
seven  years. 

F.  E.  SCHOFIELU:  lives  at  Dora,  Coos  county;  was  born 
in  1843;  came  to  Oregon  in  1876;  married  Miss  Emmons,  of 
Iowa.     Children,  Ida,  Edna,  Ivan  and  Clara. 

J.  H.  SCHROEDER:  was  born  in  Baltimore,  Md.,  in  1840; 
came  to  county  in  1859;  is  a  farmer;  was  married  to  Miss 
Emily  Perry,  December  30,  1861.  Children,  Dora,  A.  L., 
Mary  E.,  William  T.,  Ella  J.,  George  T..  Alice  May,  Walter 
v.,  Clarence,  Ralph  and  Gustave. 

J.  Frederick  .Schroder:  lives  near  Norway;  is  a  farmer; 
was  born  in  Baltimore,  Md.,  September  15,  1844;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1859.  was  married  December  25,  1866  to 
Mary  Perry.  Children,  Clara  B.,  Charles  A.,  Frank,  E, 
Finley  and  Eva  L. 

Samuel  B.  Sherwood:  lives  in  Sumner;  is  proprietor  of 
a  livery  stable,  teamster,  &c. ;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1871;  was  born  in  Onondaga  county,  N.  Y.;  was  married  Oc- 
tober 30,  i860,  to  Eliza  J.  Finch.  Children,  Mary  E.,  Starr 
K.  and  Mattie. 

Harry  Simmons:  lives  at  Bandon;  is  a  ship  carpenter; 
came  to  county  and  state  in  1883;  is  unmarried. 

J.   M.   Sku.lN:  lives  at  Marshfield;  is   a    lawyer;  was  born 


in  Monroe  county,  I'enn. ;  came  to  state  and  county  in  fanuar. 
1S72,  married  March  22,  1863.10  Nellie  Sherman.  One  child 
Kate  M. 

A.  J.  Smith:  lives  in  Sumner;  came  to  state  in  1859,  and 
to  county  in  1883;  was  born  in  Canada  West. 

John  .Snyder:  was  born  in  Germany  in  1S42;  came  to 
America  in  1852,  to  Oregon  in  1869,  and  to  county  in  1873; 
was  married  to  Miss  Amanda  Hayes  in  1865.  Children, 
Alice,  Ada  and  John. 

Russell  Stevens:  lives  on  Catching  slough;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office,  Marshfield;  is  a  native  of  New  York;  came  to 
state  in  1868,  and  to  county  in  1869;  was  married  in  1866,  to 
Nancy  J.  Darling.  They  have  an  adopted  child,  Francis  L. 
Stevens. 

Edwin  E.  Stillwell:  Hves  in  Coquille  city;  is  a  native 
of  Douglas  county;  has  lived  in  Coquille  eighteen  years. 

S.  E.  Steward:  lives  in  Coquille  city;  is  a  log  contractor; 
came  to  county  in  1865;  w-as  married  to  -Miss  Moulton,  by 
whom  he  had  five  children,  two  living  and  three  dead. 

Dr.  J.  W.  Starr:  lives  at  Bandon;  is  a  physician;  was 
born  in  Belmont  county,  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1S53,  and  to 
county  in  1883;  married  February  22,  1872,  to  Adaline  Wil- 
liamson.    One  child,  Luri  W. 

John  F.  Tim.mermaN:  Hves  at  Webster's  Point;  is  a  farmer; 
post-office  Marshfield;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1870;  mar- 
ried in  1873,  to  Louisa  Schroeder,  one  child,  ^Iax. 

J.  P.  Tupper:  lives  at  Bandon;  is  a  hotel  keeper  and  mer- 
chant; came  to  state  and  county  in  1869;  was  born  in  Nova 
Scotia;  married  October  3,  l86l,  to  Martha  A.  Lynch,  only 
child,  Benjamin  F. 

Carl  H.  Volmar:  lives  at  Myrtle  Point;  is  an  atlorney-at- 
law,  graduated  in  University  of  Maryland,  in  1877;  originally 
came  to  Coquille  in  1859;  was  born  in  Baltimore,  Maryland, 
September  18,  1856. 

George  Wasson:  this  gentleman  is  said  to  have  built  the 
first  house  in  Enpirecity,  Coos  county,  in  the  summer  of  1S53. 
Mr.  Wasson  was  born  in  New  Brunswick,  and  came  to  this 
state  in  1850,  and  to  Coos  county  in  1853. 

James  A.  Waller:  lives  at  Coquille  city;  is  a  carpenter; 
came  to  county  in  1868;  was  born  in  Tennessee;  is  a  promi- 
nent member  of  the  order  of  Odd  Fellows. 

Joseph  W.\ltser:  lives  at  Randolph;  is  a  brewer;  was 
born  in  Germany.  Mr.  Waltser  has  acquired  a  good  reputa- 
tion as  a  brewer. 

William  M.  Way:  hves  wiih  his  family  at  Norway;  is  a 
clerk  and  telegraph  operator;  came  to  slate  and  county  in  1875. 

Mathew  Whoberg:  was  born  in  Howard  county,  Missou- 
ri, in  1825,  and  came  to  Oregon  in  1852;  settled  on  liis  present 
farm  of  160  acres  on  Catching  creek  in  1872;  married  and  has 
ten  children,  Margret  Ann,  Mary  E.,  Catharine,  James  A.  M., 
Willis  G.,  Amelia  J.,  John  .M.,  William  G.,  Joseph  C,  ami 
Samantha. 

T.  B.  Willard:  lives  in  Coquille;  was  the  original  prop- 
rietor of  (he  town;  was  a  pioneer  of  1853;  came  to  this 
county  in  1866 

Jasi'ER  a.  Yorkam:  lives  on  Coos  river;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office,  Marshfield;  came  to  state  in  1853  and  to  county  in 
1S54;  was  horn  in  Illinois;  was  married  February  14,  1S71, 
to  Marian  A.  Rogers.  Children,  Edwin  R.  (deceased), 
George  H.  (deceased),  Lydia  E.,  Stephen  J.  (deceased)  and 
Jasper  A. 


CURRY   COUNTY. 


D.  L.  Anderson:  was  born  in  Warren  county,  Tennessee, 
and  came  to  Oregon  in  1S50,  and  in  .May,  18S1,  located  on 
his  present  farm  near  Denmark,  Curry  county,  and  engaged 
in  farming;  married  a  daughter  of  ex-Judge  F'itzhugh.  and 
has  eleven  children,  George,  Mira  (deceased),  Emxrh.  Dickey 
(deceased),  John,  Fi'.zhugh,  Lee,  Solomon,  Phebc,  Hannah, 
Eva  and  Nancy. 

Wm.  H.  H.  Averill:  a  native  of  Illinois,  and  in  1852 
emigrated  to  Oregon,  and  in  1880  came  to  Curry  county,  lo- 
cating on  Flora's  Flats,  two  miles  from  Denmark;  owns  200 
acres  of  land,  where  he  also  keeps  a  merchandise  store;  is 
fi>rty  years  of  age  and  married.  Has  a  family  of  four  chil- 
dren,   Euphonia  A.,  James  .S.,  Lawrence  A.  and  Edgar  F. 

W.  H.  Bagnell:  "lives  four  miles  above  EUensburg;  is  en- 
gaged in  fishing  and  farming  ;  is  a  native  of  Troy,  New  York; 
came  to  the  stale  and  county  in  1855. 


M.  M.  Bates:  lives  at  Port  Orford;  is  a  lawyer;  was  born 
in  Massachusetts;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1864;  married 
in  1869  to  Fannie  M.  Dyer.  Children,  Ida  May,  Blanche 
and  B.  W. 

Morris  L.  Bennett:  is  a  native  of  Ohio;  was  born  Oct. 
II,  1854,  and  came  to  Coos  county,  Oregon,  in  1877,  and 
with  his  mother  located  on  his  present  ranch  in  Curry  county 
in  March,  1878;  has  320  acres  of  land,  and  engage<l  in  sheep 
raising. 

Jesse  W.  Carev:  lives  on  Mussel  creek;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  raiser;  post-office,  Port  Orford;  was  born  in  Hamilton 
county,  Ind. ;  came  to  county  and  slate  in  1869;  married  Jan- 
uary II,  1880,  to  Alice  Bledsoe. 

Asa  Carman:  lives  at  Port  Orford;  is  a  saloon  keeper; 
was  born  in  1831;  came  to  st.ate  in  1871,  and  was  sheriff  of 
Curry  county  one  term. 


APPENDIX. 


Capt.  Peter  Cauiihei.L:  lives  on  Smith's  river,  Cali- 
fiirnia;  is  captain  of  the  tug  Pelican,  at  mouth  of  Rogue 
river;  he  is  a  native  of  Canada,  and  about  sixty  years  or  age. 
His  family  consists  of  James,  John,  Fannie,  (WilUam  and 
Mary,  twins),  Hugh  and  Robert. 

JosEi'H  Ch.apman:  lives  in  EUensburg;  is  a  teamster;  was 
horn  in  Monroe  county,  Mrginia;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1S79;  was  married  in  1S33  to  Miss  Rachel  Hatfield.  Chil- 
dren, Carrie,  Joseph,  Cintha  S.,  Katie,  Barbara,  Caroline, 
Perry  and  Edward. 

H.  Clarno:    lives   four   miles   above  EUensburg;  keeps  a 

dairy;  was  born  in  Illinois;  came  to  siate  and  county  in  1873. 

John'  Colton:  was  born  in  Missouri;  is  26  years  of  age;  is 

married;    in    1883   settled    on   his    present   farm   on   Flora's 

creek;  post-office,  Bennett. 

D.  J.  COLLI-Ns:  lives  on  Hunter's  creek;  was  born  in  Bos- 
ton, Mass.;  post-office,  EUensburg;  is  a  stock  raiser;  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1871;  married  Miss  H.  McCarty  in  1850. 
Childien,  James,  Fannie,  Jeremiah,  Johanah  and  Katie. 

James  A.  Coolev:  lives  in  Chetco  valley;  is  a  dairyman; 
post-nffice,  Chetco;  is  a  native  of  Missouri;  came  to  state  in 
iSSj.  and  to  county  in  i860;  was  married  in  1867,  to  Ma- 
tilla  .'^tanton.  Children,  Minnie,  Alice  N.,  Matilda  E.,  Ber- 
tha A.,  Mary  E.,  Hester  M.  and  Ida  M. 

H.  M.  CoOLEV:  lives  near  Chetco  river;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  grower;  post-office,  Chetco;  is  a  native  of  Missouri; 
came  to  state  in  1853,  and  to  couniy  in  1S60;  was  married  in 
1878,  to  Florence  Howland.  Children,  Millie  N.,  Walter 
and  Abbie. 

WiLLl.'iM  Cox:  was  born  in  Illinois;  is  45  years  of  age ; 
came  to  Oregon  in  1845  ^'^^  settled  in  Curry  county  at  an 
early  dav;  resides  on  Flora's  creek;  is  married.  Children, 
Sarah  C.,  Ralph  E.,  John  I.  E.,  Mary  Ann.  Effa  J.  and 
Davis  L. 

Glenn  B.  Cox:  was  born  in  Polk  county,  Oregon,  in 
1857;  came  to  Curry  county  and  settled  on  Flora's  creek;  is  a 
lumberman. 

Chari.es  Dewey :  lives  three  miles  above  EUensburg  on  a 
farm:  was  born  in  Pembroke,  Genesee  county,  N.  Y. ;  came 
to  state  in  i860  and  to  county  in  1862;  owns  a  valuable  mine 
on  the  beach  and  divides  his  time  between  mining  and  farming. 
William  Ferris:  lives  near  Port  Orford;  is  a  miner;  came 
to  Curry  county  in  1853. 

George  FiTZHUOH:  lives  at  Denmark;  came  to  state  in 
1850  and  to  county  in  1852;  is  married.  Children,  Melvin, 
Fanny,  Charles,  John  and  Robert. 

S.  B.  Gardener:  lives  near  EUensburg;  is  a  farmer  and 
stock  raiser:  was  born  in  Iowa;  came  to  state  in  1863  and  to 
county  in  i866;'was  married  in  1866  to  Catherine  Chapman. 
Children,  Edwin  L.,  Ellen  M.,   Reuben,  Delos  and  Viola. 

William  Gauntlett:  lives  at  EUensburg;  is  sheriff  of 
Curry  county;  was  born  in  Scotland;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1859;  married  June,  1880,  to  Annie  Winsor.  Children, 
George  and  Clinton. 

W.  S.  HiGGixs:  lives  on  Winchuck;  is  a  farmer;  post- 
office,  Chetco;  was  born  in  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1850  and 
to  county  in  1877;  was  married  in  1S58  to  Miss  Abbott.  ChU- 
dren,  Henry  Robert,  Emily  J.,  Elizabeth  Daisy,  Martha, 
fames,  Rosa  and  Louis. 

N.  Huntley:  is  a  farmer  and  fisherman;  lives  eight  miles 
above  EUensburg;  was  born  in  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1848 
and  to  county  in  1870;  married  Mary  J.  King  in  1847. 

W' illiam  a.  King:  was  born  in  Illinois;  is  37  years  of 
age;  came  to  state  in  1854;  is  a  stock  grower;  lives  on  Flora's 
creek  ten  miles  from  Denmark;  post-office,  Denmark. 

WiLLiA.M  KiRK:  lives  near  Chetco  river;  is  a  merchant; 
post-office,  Chetco;  was   born    in    Belfast,    Ireland;  came   to 

Lot' IS  Knait:  lives  with  his  mother,  who  is  now  80  years 
of  age;  is  proprietor  of  Knapp's  hotel  at  Port  Orford;  they 
were  among  the  first  settlers  of  that  town.  In  connection  with 
their  hotel  they  own  1,200  acres  of  land. 

D.WID  Liuby:  lives  nine  miles  above  EUensburg,  at  which 
place  he  owns  a  fine  farm;  post-office,  EUensburg;  was  born 
in  Maine,  in  1831;  came  to  state  and  county  in  1853;  was  in 
Indian  wars  of  1855-6  and  fought  bravely  for  the  defense  of 
his  country. 

C.  Long:  was  born  in  Illinois;  is  now  46  years  of  age; 
owns  1,000  acres  of  good  grazing  land  twelve  miles  from 
Bandon  where  he  is  extensively  engaged  in  the  dairy  business; 
is  married.     ChUdren,  Alice  M.,  Rosa  J.,  Ormelia  and  John  M. 


NiLiiOLAS  C.  LORENTZEN:  lives  near  Denmark;  is  engaged 
in  the  lumber  business;  came  to  county  in  1S75;  was  born  in 
Denmark,  Sweden;  is  38  years  of  age;  is  married.  Children, 
Anna  M.,  Lena  C,  Thyra  H.  and  Camilla  F. 

P.  McCrefry:  lives  at  EUensburg;  is  foreman  in  R.  D. 
Humes'  cannery;  was  born  in  Ireland;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1874. 

John  McVay:  lives  four  miles  from.  EUensburg;  is  a  stock 
raiser;  is  a  native  of  Ireland;  arrived  in  this  state  in  1867,  and 
came  to  this  county  in  1868;  was  married  to  M.  A.  McCreery, 
in   1866. 

William  McVay:  lives  near  Chetco;  is  a  dairyman  and 
farmer;  came  to  state  and  county  in  i860;  was  married  in  1854, 
to  Emiline  McCormac.  Children,  Mary  E.,  Emma,  Henry, 
Benjamin,  Laura,  William,  Minnie  and  Augustus. 

E.  H.  Meservev:  resides  at  EUensburg;  is  engaged  in 
farming  and  is  watchman  in  Humes  mill;  was  born  in  Maine; 
arrived  in  the  state  and  settled  in  this  county  in  1853;  was 
Lieutenant  and  subsequently  Captain  in  the  Rogue  river  war, 
and  v\as  engaged  in  several  bloody  battles. 

W.  C.  -Miller:  lives  four  miles  above  EUensburg,  where 
he  has  a  farm;  is  a  native  of  Dayton,  Ohio;  arrived  in  this 
state  in  1847,  and  to  county  in  1S68;  married  Miss  P.  A. 
Turner,  in  May  1S55. 

A.  H.  MOORR:  resides  at  EUensburg;  is  a  blacksmith  by 
occupation;  was  born  in  Highland  county,  Ohio;  arrived  in 
this  state  in  1850,  and  came  to  this  county  in  1857;  was  mar- 
ried in  i860,  to  Miss  S.  C.  Morrison.  Children,  Frederick 
and  Dora  E. 

H.  S.  MooRE:  is  a  native  of  Iowa;  came  to  Curry  county  in 
1S76,  now  resides  in  Port  Orford;  is  a  farmer. 

S.  D.  MORRISO.N:  resides  near  EUensburg;  where  he  is 
employed  at  sheep  raising;  address  is  EUensburg;  is  a  native 
of  Vermont;  arrived  in  this  state  and  settled  in  this  county  in 
1868. 

Joseph  L.  Nay:  resides  five  miles  north  of  Port  Orford; 
and  proprietor  of  Nay's  Lumber  mUls,  and  owns  1,000  acres 
of  land;  is  a  native  of  West  Miland,  New  Hampshire;  and  as 
yet  unmarried. 

A.  B.  Sabin:  is  a  farmer;  lives  five  mUes  from  Denmark, 
Curry  county;  is  a  native  of  New  Jersey;  is  married  and  has 
one  child,  Walter  J. 

Raleigh  Scott:  lives  at  Mountain  Ranch;  is  a  stock 
grower;  post-office,  Chetco;  is  a  native  of  Lane  county.  Or.; 
came  to  county  in  1872;  married  Nettie  Cooley,  October  4, 
1874;  ~S\x.  Scott  is  an  extensive  stock  grower — sheep  a 
specialty. 

Willard  F.  and  Walter  Shoemaker:  live  with  their 
mother,  Mrs.  Mary  A.  Shoemaker,  on  Knott  hill,  five  miles 
from  Denmark;  own  a  large  tract  of  land;  were  born  in  Mis- 
souri; are  25  and  23  years  of  age,  respectively. 

Henry  Smith:  lives  at  Smith's  Ferry;  post-office,  Chetco; 
is  a  farmer  and  ferry  keeper;  is  a  native  of  Prussia:  came  to 
state  and  county  in  1857;  was  married  in  1865  to  Hanah  J. 
Riley. 

Frank  Smith:  was  born  in  New  \  ■ '  '  :  i-  1'.  >  ■  ir^  of  age; 
came  to  county  in  i860;  is  a  retail  liijr,    1  1  ,      I     it  ( )rford. 

H.  Strahan:  resides  at  EUensburg;  ,  .  1  ,  ,  ,..i>cr;  was 
born  in  Philadelphia,  Penn.;  arrived  in  ihi.-.  ^uii^  .lud  county 
in  1S71:  was  married  to  Miss  Mary  Eubcrg,  in  1S68.  ChUdren, 
Charles  G.  and  William  H.      Mr.  Slr.ihan  has  a  good  farm. 

Walter  Sutton:  publisher  and  proprietor  of  the  Curry 
county  Post,  of  EUensburg,  is  a  native  of  Illinois,  and  in  1854 
came  to  Oregon,  and  to  Curiy  county  in  1870;  married  Feb- 
ruary 14,  1877,  to  Miss  Louisa  A.  Smith.  Children,  Louisa 
A  ,  Walter  F.  and  John  A. 

Edward  Svpher:  born  in  Rogue  river  valley,  in  1865, 
and  has  ever  since  resided  in  Curry  county. 

C.  W.  Thomas:  was  born  in  Pennsylvania;  is  53  years  of 
age;  is  manager  of  the  sawmill  formerly  owned  by  the  Port 
Orford  Cedar  Co.,  at  Port  Orford,  where  he  resides;  is  mar- 
ried; has  three  children. 

A.  H.  Thrift:  lives  on  Flora's  creek;  is  a  dairyman  and 
stock  raiser;  post-office  Denmark;  was  born  in  Fredericktown, 
Kiii.N  r.iiiiii\ ,  I  )hio;  came  to  state  in  1852,  and  to  county  in 
1S3;;  ni.iiih/i  lime  5,  1S67,  to  Mary  J.  Goodman.  Children. 
Annie  (..  iiUici^L-d),  Edgar  B.,  Rosabel,  Alexander,  Hattie 
.\.,  .Mviu  \.,  E\a  J.,  and  (Eola  and  LeRoy  twins). 

J.  H.  Ui'TON:  w"as  born  in  Ohio;  came  to  state  in  1853  and 
in  1880  located  at  Port  Orford,  where  he  established  the  Port 
Orford  Post,  which  he  sold  in    1882   and   moved  on   his  farm 


APPENDIX. 


521 


iic-ar  Denmark,  where  in  August,  1SS3,  he  established  the 
Curry  County  Recorder;  is  niairied.  Children,  J.  M.  and  Ar- 
thur \V. 

Frederick  Unican:  is  a  resident  of  Port  Orford;  came  to 
Curry  county  in  July  i85i;has  a  farm  three  miles  north  of 
Port  Orford. 

Dr.  F.  O.  Von  der  Gree.n:  lives  at  Ellensburg;  is  a  phy- 
sician; was  horn  in  Munich,  Germany;  came  to  state  and 
county  in  1S68;  was  Uiarried  to  Miss  B.  C.  Noon,  June  6, 
1S60.     Children,  Mary,  Blanch,    Florence   and   lk-rtl>"a.     Dr. 


Von  der  Green  is  the  only  physician  in  Curry  county  and  has 
a  large  and  lucrative  practice,  and  is  highly  respected . 

ROKERT  Walker:  was  born  in  Canada;  lives  at  Ellens- 
burg; is  engaged  in  merchandising;  came  to  state  and  county 
in  1869;  was  married  to  Miss  Mary  li.  Frime  in  1874.  .Mr. 
Walker  was  sheriff  of  the  county  one  term. 

G.  B.  Wilson:  lives  on  Winchuck;  is  a  fisherman;  post- 
office,  Chetco;  came  to  state  and  county  iu  1868;  was  born 
in  Pennsylvania;  was  married  in  1855  to  Eunice  Violet.  Chil- 
dren, L.  F.,  G.  F.,  Belle,  Lizzie,  Nettie  and  John. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


.11  1S57;  wa,  ,.     I  -  I  ■,    I-  -    ■      I  !   ,.  luirt. 

Children,    (n-i--    N  .     1  ili,    I  m,,   :     \    .   \  v.,  ^    A  .  |..|,n    li., 
Fred  J.  and   Florence  A. 

Richard  Cook:  is  a  native  of  England;  was  born  Febru- 
ary 19,  1S36;  at  the  age  of  about  forty  years  he  arrived  in 
this  state,  settling  in  Jacksonville,  Jackson  county,  where  he 
has  since  followed  mining;  he  is  at  present  proprietor  of  a 
mine  in  this  county;  Mr.  Cook  was  married  August  9,  1S60, 
to  Elizaljeth  Harris.     They  have  one  son,  Richard  Jr. 

James  W.  Collins:  this  old  pioneer  was  born  in  Pettis 
county.  Mo.,  June  13,  1S25;  when  seven  years  old  his  parents 
moved  to  Reves  county,  (now  Henry  county)  in  that  state; 
thence  to  St.  Clair  county,  and  to  Bates  county,  all  in  Mis- 
souri. On  the  6th  of  May,  1850,  he  started  for  California, 
overland,  arriving  in  Sacramento  on  September  I,  1S51. 
He  mined  for  gold  on  Feather  river  about  two  weeks,  then 
went  to  Chico,  and  his  uncle  who  resided  there,  gave  him  an 
outfit  of  six  Indians  and  seven  mules  with  suff.cient  provisions 
for  a  trip  to  Scott  river.  He  remained  there  until  February  5, 
1852,  when  he  came  to  Rogue  river  valley,  where  he  arrived 
the  same  month,  sleeping  the  first  night  under  an  oak  tree  on 
the — now — Gordon  ranch.  Here  he  took  a  donation  claim, 
where  he  lived  until  the  fall  of  1853,  then  sold  out  and  went 
to  Dry  creek,  stock  raising.  He  next  moved  to  Table  Rock 
precinct,  where  he  purchased  a  farm,  and  lived  until 
coming  to  his  present  ranch  near  Phreni.x.  He  claims  to  have 
sown  the  first  grain  in  Jackson  county,  and  erected  the  iirst 
frame  house,  the  one  now  on  the  Gordon  ranch.  He  married 
Martha  Ann  Stow  on  August  10,  1855.  She  is  a  native  of 
Sangamon  county,   Illinois. 

William  Hoff.man:  popularly  known  as  "Father  Hoff- 
man," is  an  early  pioneer  of  Jackson  county,  and  has  always 
been  one  of  her  most  prominent  and  respected  citizens;  is  a 
native  of  Baltimore,  Maryland;  came  to  state  and  county  in 
1S53;  was  married  in  1S36  to  Caroline  Shafer.  Children, 
Mary  H.  (Vining),  Julia  E.  (Beekman),  Annie  I.  (Linn),  Em- 
ma A.  (Dorris),  Florence  E.  (Shipley)  and  Kate  F.  Mr. 
Iloffiuan  was  first  county  auditor  of  Jackson  county,  and  has 
ever  since  held  some  office  of  trust. 

JcHN  Mavitv:  an  early  pioneer  of  Jackson  county,  Ore- 
gon, now  a  horticulturist  and  resident  of  St.  Helena,  Napa 
county,    Cal.;  was   born    in    Ripley  county,  Ind.,    .\ugust  3. 


1829,  and  came  to  Oregon  in  1852,  settling  in  J.ackson  county 
in  the  fall  of  that  year;  in  1870  he  moved  to  his  present  home 
in  Napa  county,  Cal. ;  was  married  October  22,  1857,  to  Miss 
Amelia  W.  Hull,  They  have  four  children.'viz:  Katie  A., 
John  M.,  Willis  W.  and  Carrie  B. 

Lewis  Shideler:  was  born  in  Marion  county,  Indiana, 
on  November  7,  1827.  When  twelve  years  old  his  parents 
took  him  to  Carroll  county,  in  that  state,  where  he  was  edu- 
cated, and  raised  on  a  farm.  Here  he  married  Diana  Harler 
on  September  14,  1848.  He  came  to  Oregon,  overland  route, 
in  June,  1870,  settling  in  Linn  county.  In  October  1872,  he 
moved  to  Jackson  county,  settling  on  his  present  farm.  John 
H.,  a  resident  of  Linn  county,  Oregon;  Etta,  Emma,  Henry 
L.,  .A.lice,  Lucinda,  Rebecca  and  Frank,  are  his  children. 

Thomas  McF.  Patton:  an  early  resident  of  Jackson 
county,  but  now  a  member  of  the  legal  profession  in  Salem, 
.  Oregon;  is  a  native  of  Carrelton,  Ohio,  and  at  an  early  age 
began  the  study  of  the  law;  a  short  time  after  his  admission  to 
the  bar,  he  started  for  the  Pacific  coast,  selecting  Oregon  for 
his  future  home,  arriving  within  its  borders  in  the  fall  of 
1851;  in  1853  Mr.  Patton  located  in  Jacksonville  and  in  that 
year  was  elected  to  the  office  of  county  judge,  he  being  the 
first  to  fill  that  position  in  Jackson  county;  two  years  later,  on 
the  expiration  of  his  term  of  office,  he  removed  to  Salem 
where  he  has  since  resided.  Mr.  Patton  was  united  in  mar- 
riage in  1854  to  Miss  Francis  M.  Cook. 

GusTAF  Wilson:  is  one  of  the  early  pioneers  of  California 
and  Southern  Oregon;  was  born  June  6,  1828,  in  Uleaborg, 
Finland,  Russia;  left  that  country  in  the  year  1842  as  a  sailor 
and  came  to  the  United  States;  in  1845  he  returned  to  his 
native  country.  The  following  year,  October,  1846,  he  set  him- 
self westward  again,  and  landed  in  New  Orleans,  March, 
1849;  in  March,  1850,  he  left  New  York  on  ship  Albanin, 
Captain  Crowell,  by  way  of  Cape  Horn,  for  California,  arriv- 
ing at  San  Francisco,  October  loth  of  the  same  year.  Went  at 
once  to  the  gold  mines  and  prospected  and  worked  in  almost 
every  mining  camp  from  Mud  Springs,  (California,  to  Jackson 
county,  Oregon.  At  the  organization  of  Josephine  county  by 
the  territorial  legislature  in  1855  he  was  appointed  coroner 
and  the  year  following  was  re-elected  to  the  same  office.  In 
1862  he  was  elected  clerk  of  Josephine  county,  and  again  re- 
elected in  1864;  at  the  expiration  of  his  second  term  he  re- 
moved to  Portland  and  has  resided  there  ever  since;  is  Vice 
Consul  of  Russia  in  Oregon . 


BIOGRAPHICAL   SKETCHES. 


BENJAMIN  C.  AGEE  was  born  in  Osa^e  county;  Missouii,  September  27,  1837.  When  but  two  years  of  age  his 
parents  moved  to  DeKalb  county,  same  state,  where  his  father  engaged  in  farming  until  April  6,  1852,  when  he,  with  his  par- 
ents, ten  brothers  and  four  sisters,  started  with  ox  teams  to  cross  the  plains  to  Oregon,  some  of  the  time  being  with  a  large 
train  of  emigrants,  but  most  of  the  distance  being  accomplished  alone,  and  after  six  months  of  continuous  travel  they  arrived  in 
Yamhill  county,  this  state,  where  his  father  purchased  land  on  Deer  creek,  and  he  now  resides.  Our  subject  remained  under 
the  parental  roof  until  the  age  of  .21  years.  He  then  engaged  in  farming  on  his  own  account  in  Yamhill  county  until  1869, 
when  he  came  to  Douglas  county  and  purchased  his  present  place  of  650  acres,  seven  miles  south  of  Roseburg,  and  is  now  en- 
gaged in  general  farming  and  stock  raising.  A  view  of,his  residence  will  be  found  in  this  history.  Mr.  Agee  is  married  and 
has  an  interesting  family  of  ten  children,  viz. :  Oscar,  Holland,  Norman,  Miles,  Minnie,  Millie,  May,  Asher,  Rosie  and  Frederick. 

ANDREW  G.  AIKEN,  the  subject  of  this  sketch  a  well  known  and  popular  resident  of  Coquille  City,  Coos  county, 
is  a  native  of  Law^rence  county,  Penn.,  and  was  born  January  12,  1837,  and  then  resided  on  his  father's  farm  unlil  16  years  of 
age.  :March  18,  1853,  he,  with  his  two  brothers,  John  and  James,  set  out  to  cross  the  plains  with  ox  teams,  and  after  a  weary 
trip  of  six  months  they  arrived  in  this  slate,  first  locating  near  Albany.  After  a  short  time  our  subject  went  to  Washington 
Territory,  where  he  remained  until  the  fall  of  1854,  when  he  again  returned  to  Oregon,  this  time  locating  in  Coos  county,  and 
engaged  in  mining  near  the  present  site  of  Newport.  On  the  breaking  out  of  the  Indian  war  on  Rogue  river,  Mr.  Aiken 
joined  Captain  Harris'  company  and  took  part  in  that  memorable  campaign.  On  the  cessation  of  hostilities,  Mr.  Aiken 
returned  to  the  coal  mines  on  the  bay,  and  followed  mining  there  and  on  Sixes  river  until  1858.  He  then  engaged  in  the  lum- 
ber business  on  Coos  bay  as  partner  with  his  brother  James,  wdiich  he  continued  until  1S75,  with  the  exception  of  two  years 
spent  in  Idaho.  In  the  fall  of  1S75  he  paid  a  visit  to  his  old  home  in  Pennsylvania,  and  on  his  return  to  Coos  county  in  the 
spring,  was  nominated  on  the  Democratic  ticket  for  the  office  of  sherift"  of  that  county,  a  position  he  was  elected  to  at  the  fol- 
lowing  election,  and  two  years  later  was  re-elected  to  the  same  oflfice.  On  the  expiration  of  his  term  of  office,  Mr.  Aiken 
located  in  Coquille  City,  and  in  1882  built  his  present  commodious  residence,  in  which  he  now  resides,  a  view  of  his  home 
being  placed  in  this  work.  Mr.  Aiken  is  a  gentleman  whom  it  is  a  pleasure  to  meet,  being  generous  and  hospitable  to  a  fault. 
He  now  enjoys  the  comforts  of  a  happy  home,  and  the  respect  and  confidence  of  the  entire  people  of  the  county  in  which  he 
resides.  He  was  united  in  marriage  in  Coquille  City,  May  25,  1874,  to  Miss  Augusta  Cunningham.  By  this  union  they  have 
one  son  and  one  daughter,  Charles  G.  and  Ahce  O. 

ALBERT  ALFORD. — The  subject  of  our  memoir  is  a  native  of  Chariton  county,  Missouri,  and  born  May  4,  1833. 
Here  he  was  educated.  In  1S50  he  crossed  the  plains  to  Oregon,  accompanying  his  parents,  who  settled  in  Linn  county, 
where  he  married  Catherine  Brinker,  on  December  iS,  1853.  She  was  born  in  Missouri,  on  December  24,  183S.  Mr.  Alford 
continued  to  reside  in  Linn  county  up  to  1869,  when  he  came  to  Jackson  county,  Oregon,  and  settled  near  Table  Rock.  In 
1874  he  moved  to  Talent,  and  is  now  a  resident  of  the  place.  He  was  elected  county  commissioner  from  Eden  precinct  in 
1880,  and  re-elected  in  1882,  which  office  he  still  holds.  A  view  of  his  residence  can  be  found  in  another  part  of  this  work. 
His  children  are:  Russell  A.,  born  March  16,  1855,  Masas  L.,  born  April  27,  1857,  Alice,  born  February  13,  1859,  and 
Amanda  O.,  born  February  7,  1862. 

HASKELL  AMY: — Born  in  Vermont,  on  August  19,  1831.  When  quite  young  his  parents  took  him  to  Knox 
county,  Illinois,  where  he  was  reared  on  a  farm  and  educated  in  the  laiblic  schools.  In  the  spring  of  1S52  he  crossed  the  plains 
to  Oregon,  and  settled  at  that  time  in  Jackson  county.  In  the  fall  of  1858  he  purchased  his  present  farm  and  took  up  his 
residence  thereon,  where  he  has  continuously  lived  to  the  present  time.  He  went  to  Illinois  on  a  visit  via  the  ocean  route  in 
1866,  returning  the  same  year  overland  with  a  team.  He  married  Mahala  McDaniel  on  May  3,  1859.  She  died  on  Sep- 
tember 19,  1861.  The  maiden  name  of  his  present  wife  was  Jessie  Bledsoe,  to  whom  he  was  married  in  1874.  One  child  by 
his  first  wife,  whose  name  is  Frank.  Two  children  by  his  second  marriage,  Laura  and  Albert.  A  view  of  the  residence  of 
this  old  settler  is  in  this  history. 

HONORABLE  LINDSAY  APPLEGATE.  The  subject  of  this  sketch,  whose  portrait  appears  in  this  work,  was 
born  in  Henry  county,  Kentucky,  September  18,  1808.  In  1820  the  family  emigrated  to  Missouri  and  settled  near  St.  Louis, 
then  a  small  French  village.  Educational  advantages  were  poor,  and  as  a  consequence  young  Lindsay  had  received  but  little 
education  up  to  his  fifteenth  year,  when,  with  a  few  young  associates,  he  escaped  from  home  and  enlisted  under  General  Ashley, 
of  St.  Louis,  for  a  trapping  expedition  to  the  Rocky  mountains.  One  division  of  the  expedition  with  the  heavy  baggage 
ascended  the  Missouri  river,  while  the  remainder  with  pack  trains  proceeded  by  land.  At  the  Pawnee  town  the  river  party 
was  attacked  and  defeated  by  the  Indians  and  driven  back  to  Council  Bluffs.  Here  young  Applegate  and  others  were  taken 
sick  and  sent  with  the  wounded  back  to  St.  Louis.  After  this  he  returned  home,  but  his  restless  spirit  longed  for  a  more  adven- 
turous life  than  was  there  afforded  him,  and  he  followed  trading  on  the  Mississippi  river  for  a  time,  then  worked  for  a  while  in 
the  newly  discovered  lead  mines  at  Galena,  Illinois,  and  afterwards  served  as  a  volunteer  in  the  famous  Black  Hawk  war  under 
General  Whiteside.  In  January,  1831,  he  was  mairied,  in  Cole  county,  Missouri,  to  Elizabeth  Miller,  and  soon  after  moved  to 
southwestern  ilissouri,  where  he  erected  the  first  sawmill  built  in  that  part  of  the  state.  In  1843  he  crossed  the  plains  to  Ore- 
gon, and  became  a  settler  in  Polk  county,  where   in    1S44   he  served   as  a  member  of  the  first  volunteer  company  organized  to 


APPENDIX.  523 

protect  tlienew  settlements  against  the  Indians.  In  1S46  he  was  one  of  tlie  fifteen  men  who  hunted  out  the  South  Road  from 
the  Willamette  valley  to  Fort  Hall.  He  went  to  the  newly  discovered  gold  mines  in  Calilornia  in  1848,  making  the  trip  by 
land  and  returned  the  same  year  by  water.  In  1850  he  raised  a  company  and  went  with  General  Lane  in  pursuit  and  to  the 
capture  of  the  deserting  regulars  from  Oregon  City.  In  1850  he  moved  to  the  Umpqua,  where  he  served  as  special  Indian 
agent  under  General  Palmer.  Captain  Lindsay  Applegale  raised  a  detachment. of  Mounted  Oregon  Volunteers  and  was  mus- 
tered into  the  service  of  the  United  .States  for  the  war  against  the  Rogue  River  Indians  on  the  22d  of  August,  1853.  The 
detachment  marched  on  the  24th  of  August  from  Winchester,  Umpqua  valley,  to  Camp  Alden  near  Table  Rock,  Rogue  river 
valley,  the  headquarters  of  General  Lane,  and  thence  to  Myrtle  creek,  Umpqua  valley,  where  September  7,  1853,  it  was  dis- 
charged from  the  service.  Mr.  Applegate  was  mustered  as  captain  of  the  company  and  was  with  (Jeneral  Lane  when  the 
treaty  was  made  with  the  Indians  near  Table  Rock.  In  1859  he  moved  to  the  Toll  House,  Siskiyou  mountains,  Jackson  county 
and  took  charge  of  the  toll  road  from  that  place  to  the  California  state  line  which  he  then  owned.  In  1S61,  as  a  captain  of 
the  Rogue  river  volunteers,  he  went  to  the  plains  east  of  the  Siskiyou  mountains  to  protect  the  emigrants  coming  to  Oregon. 
Mr.  .•\pplegate  was  selected  from  among  his  compeers  to  represent  Jackson  county  in  the  assembly  of  Oregon  in  1862,  and 
acted  under  Superintendent  Rector  as  special  Indian  agent  for  Southern  Oregon.  In  1864  he  was  interpreter  at  the  Klamath 
and  Modoc  treaty  and  in  the  ensuing  year  was  appointed  sub-agent  and  served  at  Klamath  until  1869,  when  he  was  removed  to 
mal;e  room  for  a  military  agent.  As  a  proof  of  Mr.  Applegate's  unswerving  honesty  while  acting  as  Indian,  agent  we  quote 
from  his  final  discharge  and  last  settlement.  "  Vour  account  for  disbursements  in  the  Indian  service  from  January  I,  1868,  up 
to  January  i,  1869,  has  been  adjusted  and  a  balance  found  due  you  of  $42.or,  differing  that  amount  from  your  last  account, 
as  explained  in  the  accompanying  statement.  Signed,  E.  B.  FRENCH,    Auditor." 

There  are  those  who -believe  had  Lindsay  Applegate  remained  in  charge  of  the  Lake  Indians  all  would  have  gone  well 
and  that  the  bloody  drama  of  the  Modoc  war  would  never  have  been  played.  Mr.  Applegate  resides  at  his  old  home  in  Ashland, 
Jackson  county,  Oregon.  He  has  one  of  those  restless  and  strong  spirits  which  hew  out  the  way  for  civilization  in  the  wilder- 
ness and  who  are  nevertheless  willing  to  aid  liberally  in  promoting  the  refining  influences  of  an  advancing  people. 

CHARLES  APPLEGATE.— This  earlypioneerofOregon  and  Douglas  county  was  born  in  Henry  county,5Kentucky, 
January  24,  1806,  and  died  in  Yoncalla,  Douglas  county,  Oregon,  August  9,  1879.  If  ail  the  eventsand  experiences  of  this  pioneer 
could  be  chronicled  they  would  make  interesting  reading  for  the  occupants  of  the  happy  homes  that  now  dot  the  country 
which  he  found  a  wilderness  and  inhabited  by  little  else  than  the  savages  and  wild  beast.  Suffice  it  to  say  thai  now  that 
his  labors  are  ended,  let  the  thronging  thousands  who  shall  enjoy  this  beautiful  land,  remember  that  his  strong  arms  helped  to 
subdue  this  far  western  wilderness  and  prepared  it  for  civilized  man.  When  he  was  15  years  of  age  Mr.  Applegate's  parents 
moved  to  St.  Louis  county,  Missouri,  and  in  1829  our  subject  was  united  in  marriage  to  Miss  Malinda  Miller,  and  with  her  and 
a  small  number  of  emigrants  started  on  May  15,  1843,  for  Oregon.  The  fall  of  that  year  found  them  settled  in  the  Willamette 
valley  where  he  resided  until  1850  when  he  came  to  Douglas  county  locating  near  the  present  site  of  Yoncalla,  where  he  resided 
until  his  death. 

W.  H.  ATKINSON.— Among  the  prominent  settlers  of  Ashland  is  the  subject  of  this  memoir;  he  was  born  near 
Bradford,  England,  November  30,  1844.  When  two  years  old,  his  parents  emigrated  to  the  United  States,  and  settled  in 
Onondaga  county.  New  York.  In  the  year  1849  the  family  settled  in  Racine  county,  Wis. ;  thence  to  Walworth  county  in  that 
state  in  1856,  where  he  was  married  to  Eugenia  L.  Curtis,  November  15,  1868.  In  the  year  1874  with  his  wife  he  crossed  the 
plains  by  rail,  and  settled  at  Ashland,  Jackson  county.  On  his  arrival  here,  he  purchased  an  interest  in  the  "Ashland  Flouring 
mill,"  and  soon  after  entered  into  partnership  with  General  J.  M.  McCall,  in  the  mercantile  trade.  In  1879,  he  became  one  of 
the  partners,  and  business  manager  of  the  Ashland  Woolen  Manufacturing  Company,  which  position  he  has  maintained  to  the 
present  writing.  He  has  held  prominent  offices  in  the  Masonic  fraternity,  and  was  one  of  the  instigators  in  bringing  about  (he 
erection  of  the  Masonic  block  of  Ashland. 

H.  F.  BARRON  resides  at  Barron  and  is  a  farmer,  stock  raiser  and  hotel  keeper.  He  was  born  in  Lee  county,  Vir- 
ginia, and  came  to  Jackson  county,  Ogn,  in  Oct.,  1851.  He  was  married  August  18,  1856,  to  Martha  A.Walker.  Their  children 
arc  Alice,  Edgar,  George  and  Homer.  Mr.  Barron,  whose  two  residences  are  elsewhere  illustrated  in  this  book,  possesses 
lari;c  landed  and  stock  interests,  his  stock  being  mainly  horses,  cattle  and  sheep. 

HON.  THOMAS  FLETCHER  BEALL;  born  in  Montgomery  county,  Maryland,  on  the  27th,  of  August  1827.  He 
with  his  parents,  moved  in  1834,  to  Springfield,  Sangamon  county  111.  Here  was  educated  and  resided  until  1852, 
he  crossed  the  plains  with  his  brother  R.  V.  Beall,  with  miUe  teams,  arriving  in  Oregon  on  July  18,  I852,  and  settled 
in  Rogue  river  valley,  at  Central  Point,  September  27,  1852,  on  a  donation  claim.  He  purchased  his  present  place,  south  from 
Central  Point,  in  1858,  where  he  has  since  lived.  In  1853,  he  was  engaged  in  packing  between  Jacksonville  and  Scottsburg. 
On  one  of  his  return  trips  from  Scottsburg,  a  Spaniard  stole  one  ol  his  mules.  He  followed  him  into  Lane  county,  caught  him 
and  got  possession  of  the  mule,  chastising  the  Spaniard,  and  on  his  return  to  Rogue  river  valley  fell  in  company  with  (Jeneral 
Lane,  Pleasant  Armstrong,  Michael  Hanly  and  others,  taking  the  Kearney  route.  After  making  a  three  days  journey,  the 
party  found  themselves  without  provisions,  and  although  it  was  strictly  against  orders  to  discharge  fire  arms,  Mr.  Beall  came 
across  a  deer-after  they  had  camped— and  disobeying  orders,  killed  the  deer,  brought  it  to  camp,  and  fortunately  for  him  was 
not  punished  other  than  seeing  his  companions  partake  of  the  deer  meat.  They  proceeded  on  their  journey  safely  to  Rogue  river 
valley.  Mr.  Beall  continued  the  packing  business  until  1856,  and  has  followed  farming  and  stock  raising  since  that  time,  he 
and  his  brother  being  the  largest  wheat  growers  in  Jackson  county,  owning  jointly  and  severally  2,548  acres  of  land.  He  was 
elected  to  the  Assembly  of  Oregon  in  1864,  holding  the  office  one  term.  He  married  Ann  Hall  on  November  10,  1859;  she  is 
a  native  of  Champaigne  county,  Ohio,  and  was  born  January  3,  1838.  Children,  Benjamin,  Asbury,  Clara,  Carrie,  Thomas, 
Lee,  Tvscm  and  Lucind.-v. 

ROBERT  VINTON  BEALL  was  born  on  the  isth  of  June  1831,  in  Montgomery  county,  Maryland.  He  with  his 
parents  moved  to  Sangamon  county.   111.,  in   1S34.      Here  he  was  educated.     With  his  brother  T.  F.  Beall  hc  emigrated  to 


524  '    APPENDIX. 

Oregon,  arriving  at  Oregon  City  July  i8.  1852.  He  came  to  this  county  on  the  27th  of  September  of  that  year  and  settled  on 
his  present  farm  south  of  Central  Point.  Here  he  has  lived  ever  since  with  the  e.xception  of  six  months.  He  has  been  engaged 
in  farming  and  stock  raising.  He  married  Ann  Maria  Riddle,  on  the  19th  of  April  1864;  she  was  born  in  Sangamon  county, 
111.,  on  April  19th,  1S47.     Children,  Mary  and  Robert  V. 

HON.  C.  C.  BEEKMAN. — The  reminiscences  of  the  early  pioneers  of  the  Pacific  coast  must  ever  possess  a  pecu- 
liar interest  for  the  Oregonian.  Green  in  their  memory  will  ever  remain  the  trials  and  incidents  of  early  life  in  this  land  of 
golden  promise.  These  pioneers  of  civilization  constitute  no  ordinary  class  of  adventurers.  Resolute,  ambitious  and  endur- 
ing, looking  into  the  great  and  possible  future  of  this  western  slope,  and  possessing  the  sagacious  mind  to  grasp  true  conclu- 
.sions,  and  the  indomitable  will  to  execute  just  means  to  attain  desired  ends,  these  heroic  pioneers,  by  their  subsequent  career, 
have  proved  that  they  were  equal  to  the  great  mission  assigned  them,  that  of  carrying  the  real  essence  of  American  civilization 
from  their  ea.stern  homes  and  planting  it  upon  the  shores  of  another  ocean.  Among  the  many  who  have  shown  their  fitness  for 
the  tasks  assigned  them,  none  merit  this  tribute  more  fully  than  the  subject  of  this  sketch,  whose  portrait  appears  in  this  w^ork. 
He  was  born  in  New  York  city,  January  27,  1828.  He  received  his  education  in  the  public  schools,  and  while  yet  in  his 
minority  he  learned  the  carpenter's  trade.  In  the  year  1850  he  sailed  from  New  York,  coming  via.  the  isthmus  of 
Panama,  and  arrived  in  San  Francisco  in  the  fall  of  that  year.  He  went  to  Sawyer's  Bar,  where  he  was  engaged  as  a  miner; 
tlience  to  Yreka  working  at  his  trade,  after  which  we  find  him  at  Scott's  Bar,  mining;  returning  to  Yreka,  where,  in  1S53,  he 
entered  the  employ  of  Cram,  Rogers  &  Co.,  as  express  messenger  between  that  pkce,  Jacksonville  and  Crescent  City.  He 
was  often  obliged  to  cross  the  Siskiyou  mountains  under  cover  of  darkness  on  account  of  hostile  Indians.  He  retained  this 
"position  until  the  failure  of  Adams  &  Co.  in  1856,  which  carried  down  with  it  the  house  of  Cram,  Rogers  &  Co.  He  then 
commenced  carrying  express  on  his  own  account,  resuming  his  perilous  trips  across  the  mountains  until  a  stage  road  was  built 
and  the  stages  of  the  old  California  Stage  Company  put  on  the  route.  In  1863,  when  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  completed  their 
overland  connections  with  Portland,  they  tendered  Mr.  Beekman  the  agency  at  Jacksonville,  which  he  accepted,  and  has  been 
retained  up  to  the  present  time  with  credit  and  ability.  During  Mr.  Beekman's  term  of  service  as  express  messenger  on  his 
own  and  others'  account,  he  has  handled  millions  of  money,  and,  in  fact,  more  than  any  other  man  in  Southern  Oregon;  and 
his  retention  and  promotion  by  his  employers  is  a  sufficient  guarantee  for  his  unswerving  honesty  and  integrity.  Investing  his 
earnings  judiciously,  Mr.  Beekman  has  amassed  a  fortune,  not  by  miserly  conduct;  not  by  oppressing  the  poor;  not  by  taking 
advantage  of  the  necessities  of  his  fellow  men,  but  by  strict  observance  to  business  principles,  and  a  careful  management  of  his 
own  affairs.  As  a  financier  and  a  man  of  ability,  he  is  the  peer  of  any  man  in  Southern  Oregon.  To  prove  this,  if  proof  was 
necessary,  we  call  the  attention  of  our  readers  to  the  (acts  that  Mr.  Beekman  has  been  repeatedly  elected  one  of  the  trustees  of 
Jacksonville,  and  for  several  terms  held  the  honorable  position  of  mayor,  or  president  of  the  board.  He  has  also  held  the 
office  of  school  director  for  nine  years,  and  it  was  mainly  through  his  business  tact  that  the  commodious  school  building  was 
erected,  and,  withal,  his  love  for  educational  advancement  has  placed  the  standard  of  education  for  the  young,  on  a  plane  that 
would  do  credit  to  a  larger  town.  The  year  187S  wdl  be  ever  memorable  to  him,  for,  without  the  slightest  effort  on  his  part, 
he  was  selected  by  the  republican  party  from  among  his  compeers  and  placed  in  nomination  for  governor  of  Oregon.  This  was 
a  closely  contested  and  hard  fought  battle.  Mr.  Beekman's  popularity  was  so  great  that  he  was  supported  not  only  by  repub- 
licans, but  by  a  large  number  of  democrats  in  Southern  Oregon.  He  was  defeated  by  his  democrat  opponent.  Gov.  W.  W. 
Thayer,  \>y  forty-nine  votes.  The  closest  scrutiny  into  the  life  of  Mr.  Beekman  demonstrates  the  fact  that  no  man  can  find  a 
blemish  in  his  character.  Notwithstanding  he  is  wealthy,  you  could  not  observe  that  from  his  conduct.  He  is  not  like  many 
men  of  means — supercilious.  He  knows  himself,  and  that  is  half  the  battle  of  life.  He  tries  to  do  no  man  wrong,  having 
lived  up  to  the  golden  rule  all  his  life.  He  resides  in  Jacksonville,  Jackson  county,  one  of  the  prettiest  spots  in  Oregon,  where 
he  has  made  many  warm  friends  and  keeps  them.  He  often  says  with  Sydney  Smith:  "  Let  every  man  be  occupied,  and 
occupied  in  the  highest  employment  of  which  his  nature  is  capable,  and  die  with  the  consciousness  that  he  has  done  his  best." 
It  were  well  if  our  young  state  had  many  such  generous  and  enterprising  men  as  C.  C.  Beekman.  He  married  Julia  E.  Hoff- 
man, daughter  of  Wiliam  Hoffman,  and  by  this  union  they  have  one  daughter  and  one  son. 

HENRY  BECKLEY. — In  the  gentleman  whose  name  heads  this  brief  sketch,  v\'e  have  one  of  Douglas  county's  most 
energetic,  prosperous  and  generous  business  men.  Mr.  Beckley  was  born  in  Switzerland  county,  Indiana,  January  4,  1833, 
and  at  the  age  of  twenty  years  came  to  the  Pacific  coast,  and  arrived  in  Douglas  county  in  1859,  and  engaged  in  farming  near 
the  present  site  of  Elkton.  In  1864  he  was  married  to  Miss  Mary  M.  Woodson.  In  connection  with  the  management  of  his 
large  farm,  consisting  of  1,700  acres,  he  is  engaged  in  the  saw  and  grist  mill  business,  and  also  in  the  genera!  merchandise  trade 
at  Elkton  ;  a  view  of  his  mill  and  store  property  being  placed  in  this  work.  He  has  a  family  of  ten  children.  Their  names 
are  :  John  W.,  James  H.,  Charles  L.,  Mary  J.,  Susan  K.,  Virlena,  Margarette,  Pitsor  W.,  Jessie  L.  and  Clyde  P. 

JOHN  OWEN  BOOTH,  is  the  son  of  Rev.  Robert  Booth  a  well  known  minister  of  the  Methodist  church,  is  a  native  of 
Lee  county,  Iowa,  born  January  18,  1S47.  When  John  was  about  five  years  of  age  his  parents  concluded  to  seek  a  milder  climate 
than  that  of  Iowa  and  selected  Oregon  as  their  future  home,  leaving  Iowa  April  13,  1852,  and  with  ox  teams  set  out  to  cross  the 
plains  to  the  Pacific  coast,  and  after  an  unusually  severe  journey  of  six  months  they  arrived  at  The  Dalles  October  7,  of  the  same 
year.  His  parents  first  located  near  the  Grand  Ronde  reservation  in  Yamhill  county  and  there  our  subject  attended  school  and 
resided  until  1864,  when  they  changed  their  residence  to  Sheridan  in  the  same  county  until  1867  when  he  with  his  parents  came 
to  Douglas  county  first  locating  near  Wilbur  where  his  father  now  resides.  There  our  subject  finished  his  education  and 
resided  until  1871.  In  June  1870,  Mr.  Booth  was  elected  on  the  Democratic  ticket  to  the  office  of  county  school  superinten- 
dent, an  office  he  filled  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  the  people.  October  8,  1871,  he  was  united  in  marriage  to  his  estimable  wife 
Mrs.  Ann  Eliza  Labrie,  a  native  of  111.,  by  whom  he  has  two  daughters  and  one  son,  viz:  Nettie  Blanch  born  October  14,  1872, 
Annie  L.  born  May  16,  1874,  and  John  M.  born  September  17,  1S76.  In  1871  Mr.  Booth  took  up  his  residence  in  Garden 
valley,  since  which  time  he  has  been  engaged  in  general  farming  and  fruit  raising  on  his  present  well  improved  farm  of  480 
acres,  on  which  he  built  in  1878  a  fine  residence  a  view  of  which  will  be  found  in  this  work. 


APPENDIX.  525 

HON.  BEMAN  B.  BROCKWAY.-The  subiect  of  this  sketch,  a  view  of  whose  residence  will  I,e  found  in  this 
work,  was  born  in  Chataqua  county,  New  York,  February  12,  1829,  remaining  in  the  place  of  his  birth  and  under  the  parental 
roof  until  attaining  the  age  of  twenty-two  years.  Mr.  Brockway  then  concluded  to  seek  his  fortune  in  the  golden  west,  and 
consequently  on  April  23,  1852,  he  started  from  his  home  in  company  with  his  brother  Burban,  and  came  to  Naperville,  111. 
At  this  point  they  secured  ox  teams  and  joining  a  large  train  there,  set  out  to  cross  the  plains  to  the  Webfodt  State,  arriving 
in  Josephine  county  some  six  months  later.  Our  suhject  then  embarked  in  mining  in  the  above  county  and  Jackson  for  about 
eight  years.  He  then,  in  i860,  gave  up  the  occupation  of  miner,  and  concluded  to  become  a  tiller  of  the  soil,  and  selected 
Douglas  county  as  his  future  liome,  and  at  that  time  purchased  his  present  valuable  farm  consisting  of  400  acres,  located  in  the 
Civil  Bend  district,  on  which  he  has  built  a  handsome  residence  and  made  many  valuable  improvements.  Do'iglas  county 
has  twice  been  honored  by  the  services  of  Mr.  Brockway  in  an  official  capacity.  First  as  n  county  commissioner,  and  at  the 
June  election  of  iSSo,  he  was  elected  to  the  state  legislature  as  representative  of  Donglas  county,  a  position  he  filled  with  the 
utmost  satisfaction  to  his  constituents. 

HON.  HENRY  G.  BROWN,  is  a  prominent  farmer  and  stock  grower,  living  four  miles  west  of  Elklon,  and  pos- 
sesses a  valuable  farm  of  1,280  acres,  on  which  he  located  in  1852.  Mr.  Brown  is  a  native  of  Coos  county.  New  Hampshire, 
born  January  15,  1833.  He  left  New  Hampshire  in  the  spring  of  1852,  to  come  to  Oregon.  On  arrival  in  this  state  he 
came  direct  to  Douglas  county,  and  located  on  his  present  farm.  At  the  Republican  convention  of  Douglas  county  in  1882, 
Mr.  Brown  was  nominated  as  candidate  for  the  legislature,  and  at  the  subsequent  election  was  chosen  by  a  handsoitie  majority 
to  an  office  he  filled  with  abiUty  and  good  judgment,  and  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  his  constituents.  He  was  united  in  mar- 
riage to  Miss  Pricilla  .Stearns.  They  have  five  children,  viz  :  Hattie  S.,  .Samuel  H.,  Ellen  M.,  Caroline  and  M.arthee.  -A  view 
of  Mr.  Brown's  fine  residence,  built  in  1S83,  is  placed  in  this  work. 

JAMES  D.  BURNETT,  a  prominent  farmer  and  stock  grower  of  Round  Prairie,  Douglas  county,  is  a  native  of 
Blunt  county,  Tenn.,  and  was  born  March  12,  1822.  When  28  years  of  age  he  started  for  the  Pacific  coast  and  came  to 
Oregon,  first  locating  in  .Salem.  In  1852  he  came  to  Douglas  county  and  settled  on  part  of  his  present  valuable  farm,  a  view  of 
which  appears  in  this  work,  to  which  he  has  since  added  until  now  he  owns  some  1,200  acres  of  land.  Mr.  Burnett  was  mar- 
ried in  Tenn.,  to  Miss  Margaret  Love,  by  wliich  union  they  had  seven  children,  vis:  M.artha,  Francis,  Mary,  Lydia,  Thomas  B. 
and  Virginia  C.  the  latter  now  deceased. 

JOSEPH  CELLERS. — A  w  ell  known  and  popular  merchant  of  Drain,  Douglas  county,  was  born  in  JefTerson  county, 
Ohio,  June  3,  1834,  and  there  resided  until  eighteen  years  of  age.  He  then  went  west  and  resided  in  Iowa  and  Missouri,  until 
his  coming  to  this  coast,  which  event  occurred  in  1875,  and  selected  Douglas  county  as  his  future  home.  Mr.  Cellers  first 
engaged  in  farming,  and  a  few  years  later  started  his  present  general  merchandise  store  in  Drain,  but  still  retains  his  valuable 
farm  two  miles  east  of  the  latter  town.  An  excellent  view  of  his  farm  residence  will  be  found  in  this  work.  Mr.  Cellers  is  a 
member  of  the  Masonic  and  Odd  Fellows  orders,  in  both  of  which  he  has  taken  an  active  interest  ;  and  is  a  pleasant  and 
affable  gentleman  with  whom  it  is  a  pleasure  to  meet.  He  was  married  in  1865,  to  Miss  Mary  J.  Barber,  and  has  a  family  of 
nine  children. 

JOHN  H.  CHAPMAN,  a  view  of  whose  valuable  farm  and  residence  will  be  found  in  this  work,  is  a  native  of  Galia 
county,  Ohio,  born  August  15,1825.  He  was  married  April  23,  1S50,  to  Miss  Martha  A.  Eells.  In  1854  crossed  the  plains 
and  came  direct  to  Douglas  county  and  in  that  year  located  on  his  present  farm,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  North  Umpqua 
river  nineteen  miles  east  of  Roseburg  where  he  is  engaged  in  general  farming  and  stock  raising. 

ISAAC  CONSTANT,  born  in  Clark  county,  Ky.,  on  the  Sth  of  April,  1809.  The  family  started  for  the  stale  of 
Illinois  about  the  year  1812,  but  stopped  at  Green  county,  Ohio,  and  in  the  year  1820  arrived  in  Illinois,  and  settled  in 'San- 
gamon county.  Here  Mr.  Constant  lived  and  was  raised  on  a  farm.  He  crossed  the  plains  to  Oregon  in  1849,  and  being 
pleased  with  the  couhtry  returned  to  Ills.,  in  1850.  In  1852  he  brought  his  family  overland  to  Orcg<m  and  settled  on  his 
present  ranch  at  Central  Point.  He  married  Lucinda  Merryman,  on  the  14,  of  February,  1833.  Mrs.  Levenia  Robinson, 
Mrs.  Elizabeth  Lever,  Mrs.  Julia  Owens  and  Mrs.  Maria  Magruder,  are  his  children. 

JUDGE  S.  J.  DAY. — Silas  J.  Day,  residence  Jacksonville,  occupation.  County  Judge  of  Jackson  county,  Oregon, 
was  elected  thereto  in  June  1S76.  Born  in  Ann  Arundel  county,  Md.,  April  3,  1826;  came  to  San  Fr.incisco,  Cal.,  April 
1S49,  and  to  Oregon  in  April  1S51.  Married  in  Portland,  Oregon,  May  22,  1871,  to  Mary  E.  McGce,  who  was  born  in  Boon 
county.  Mo.,  November  22,  1841.  Children,  Mary  L.,  Edward  M.,  Silas  E.  and  Elsie  C.  Judge  Day  was  elected  Orderly  Ser- 
geant in  Captain  Miles  F.  Alcorns  Co.  "G."  9th  Regiment  Oregon  Militia,  October  10,  1855,  and  mustered  in  pursuanceof  the 
proclamation  of  the  Governor,  to  serve  against  the  \'akima  and  other  Indians.  March  21,  1856,  was  promoted  to  First  Lieut. 
of  the  Co.,  in  place  of  James  M.  Matney  resigned;  was  mustered  out  of  service  June  13, 1856.  By  an  act  of  the  legislative  assem- 
bly of  the  state  of  Oregon,  approved  October  23,  1872,  Judge  Day  was  appointed  one  of  the  board  of  commissioners  for  the  laying 
out  and  constructing  a  wagon  road  through  Jackson,  Grant,  and  Baker  counties,  (known  as  the  Southern  Oregon  wagon  ro.-»d); 
he  was  elected  chairman  of  the  board,  on  its  organization,  and  continued  as  such  until  July  1874,  at  which  time  said  board  dis- 
banded having  completed  the  purposes  for  which  it  was  forined. 

PHILIP  DA  MOTTA. — This  well  known  tonsorial  artist  of  Roseburg,  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  Verde  Islands,  and 
some  seven  years  ago  came  to  Roseburg  and  opened  a  Barber  Shop,  when  after  a  few  years  of  close  application  to  business  he 
was  enabled  to  purchase  a  lot  on  which  he  erected  his  present  business  building  a  two  story  frame  structure,  the  upper  part 
being  used  by  the  United  States  Signal  Service,  while  the  lower  part  he  has  fitted  up  in  an  elegant  manner  as  a  Barber  Shop 
and  Bath  rooms.  Mr.  DaMotta  has  invested  in  land  from  time  to  time  in  the  vicinity  of  Roseburg  until  he  owns  some  1,500 
acres  located  on  the  Deer  creek  valley  road. 

B.  F.  DOWELL. — Benjamin  F.  Dowell  was  born  in  Albemarle  county,  Virginia,  October  31,  1826.  He  was  named 
in  honor  of  the  great  philosopher,  Ben  Franklin,  who  was  an  uncle  to  his  grandmother.  The  parents  of  the  subject  of  thi": 
sketch  were  both  natives  of  the  state  in  which  their  son  was  born— both  having  been  born  within  a  mile  of  e.ach  other.     Mr. 


5'26  APPENDIX. 

Dowell's  mother,  originally  Miss  Fannie  Dalton,  was  a  lady  of  culture  and  refinement,  and  was  of  Scottish  descent,  while  the 
Dowells  are  traced  back  to  English  nativity.  When  but  a  child  young  Benjamin,  with  his  parents,  moved  to  Shelby  county, 
Tenn.,  where  he  acquired  a  liberal  education  at  the  male  academy.  After  having  finished  his  academic  studies,  he  returned  to 
Virginia  and  entered  the  State  University,  where  he  graduated  in  law  in  1847,  before  he  was  twenty-one  years  old.  After  com- 
pleting the  course  young  Dovvell  went  back  to  Tennessee,  where  he  practiced  his  profession  with  good  success  until  1S50,  when 
he  was  imbued  with  the  spirit,  "  W.estward  the  course  of  empire  takes  its  way,"  and  accordingly  followed  the  human  tide  into 
the  gold  regions  of  California.  Having  taken  the  cholera  soon  after  his  arrival  in  Sacramento,  he  was  advised  by  his  physician 
to  go  north.  Mr.  Dowell  started  for  Portland,  Oregon,  in  a  small  schooner,  which  after  being  driven  back  to  sea  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  finally  reached  its  port,  seriously  damaged,  after  thirty-five  days'  sailing.  Mr  Dowell  stopped  in  the 
Willamette  valley  a  short  time,  and  then  moved,  in  1852,  to  Southern  Oregon.  Here  he  engaged  in  trading  and  packing  until 
1856.  In  1857  he  again  resumed  the  practice  of  law,  settled  in  Jacksonville,  where  he  still  resides,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
widely  known  attorneys  in  the  state.  In  1861  our  subject  married  Miss  Anna  Campbell.  They  have  now  a  family  of  three 
children,  Fannie,  Annie  and  B.  F.  Jr.  In  iS62he  was  elected  prosecuting  attorney.  In  1865  he  bought  the  Oregon  Sentinel, 
which,  under  his  administration,  was  the  first  Pacific  slope  paper  to  advocate  the  enfranchisement  of  the  negroes,  and  the  first 
to  nominate  General  Grant  for  the  presidency. 

JAMES  RUFUS  DODGE,  was  born  in  Lanesboro,  Berkshire  county,  Massachusetts,  August  29,  1S17,  and  is  a 
descendant  of  poor  but  honest  parents  that  were  unable  to  give  him  the  advantages  of  a  good  education,  but  at  the  tender  age  of 
nine  years  James  was  placed  as  an  apprentice  with  a  Mr.  Butler  in  his  native  town  to  learn  the  clothiers  trade.  After  three 
years  of  faithful  work  at  this  business  he  concluded  to  try  and  better  his  condition  and  young  as  he  was  he  was  impressed  with 
the  belief  that  he  could  do  better  so  he  conveyed  his  ideas  to  his  employer  but  was  met  with  a  rebuff  and  a  contemptuous  "what 
can  you  do?"  But  on  consultation  of  his  parents  and  employer  it  was  agreed  to  let  our  subject  try  something  else.  His  first 
venture  was  into  the  hay  fields  where  he  hired  with  a  man  for  one  month  for  which  he  received  as  compensation  seven  dollars  ; 
with  this  as  his  capital  he  started  for  Troy,  N.  Y.,  from  whence  he  went  to  Canandagua  county  and  worked  on  a  farm  for  one 
year  and  the  following  summer  hired  for  $12  per  month  as  a  driver  on  the  Erie  Canal.  And  in  the  fall  went  in  the  employ  of  a 
Dr.  Wells  for  one  year  at  a  salary  of  four  dollars  per  month.  His  next  move  was  to  enter  the  employ  of  a  manufacturing  firm 
to  learn  the  carriage  and  coach  trimming  trade  but  on  account  of  a  weak  wrist  was  compelled  to  give  this  up  at  the  end  of  one 
year.  He  then  served  a  term  of  four  years  at  the  blacksmiths  trade  in  Leroy,  N.  Y.,  receiving  as  salary  thirty  dollars  per  year, 
and  furnish  his  own  clothes  but  while  others  slept  Mr.  Dodge  could  be  found  at  his  forge  and  by  night  work  he  made  an  average 
salary  of  sixty  dollars  per  year.  On  the  expiration  of  his  time  he  returned  to  Massachusetts  and  was  employed  in  a  rail  road 
blacksmith  shop,  he  now  being  a  first  class  workman  received  full  pay  and  the  world  began  to  look  brighter  and  he  continued  at 
his  trust  in  different  places  among  which  were  Rochester,  Cincinnati,  Dayton  and  Columbus,  finally  locating  in  Montezuma, 
Indiana,  here  he  engaged  in  business  for  himself  and  here  it  was  that  he  formed  the  acquaintance  of  the  lady  who  afterwards 
became  his  devoted  companion  through  lifes  journey.  He  was  married  on  March  7,  1840,  to  Helen  Mary  Allen,  a  daughter  of 
Dr.  John  Allen.  He  resided  in  Indiana  for  twelve  years,  when  failing  health  made  it  necessary  for  him  to  seek  a  milder  climate, 
so  consequently  on  March  17,  1852,  he  started,  with  his  family,  towards  the  setting  sun  and  crossed  the  great  plains  with 
out  any  serious  accident  and  arrived  in  Linn  county,  Oregon,  about  the  first  of  November,  of  that  year.  Remaining  in  that 
county  but  a  short  time  he  moved  to  the  forks  of  the  Santiam  river  and  there  started  a  blacksmith  shop.  After  a  short  stay 
here  he  was  advised  by  his  friend  Morgan  Keys  to  come  to  the  Umpqua  country  and  he  there  settled  at  the  mouth  of  Green 
\alley  creek  on  the  Calapooia  in  what  was  then  Umpqua  county.  And  now  for  over  thirty  years  Mr.  Dodge  has  been  a  resident 
of  the  Umpqua  valley,  and  since  his  arrival  has  been  engaged  in  blacksmithing,  merchandizing,  farming  and  stock  raising,  being 
extensively  engaged  in  the  latter  at  the  present  time,  and  is  now  a  gentleman  of  large  means  owning  some  6,000  acres  of 
rich  farming  land  near  Oakland,  Oregon,  where  he  resides.  A  view  of  his  town  and  country  residences  will  be  found  among  the 
illustrations  of  this  work. 

HON.  CHARLES  DRAIN,  whose  portrait,  together  with  that  of  his  estimable  wife,  very  approjiriately  finds  a  place  in 
this  history,  was  born  near  Lancaster,  Lancaster  county,  Penn.,  December  28,  1816,  and  was  the  second  son  of  Charles  and 
Esther  Wilson  Drain.  When  Charles  was  but  five  years  old  his  parents  moved  to  Shelby  county,  Indiana,  with  the  intention  of 
embarking  in  agricultural  pursuits.  But  on  entering  the  then  almost  wilderness  of  Indiana,  little  did  they  dream  what  a  few 
short  months  would  bring  forth,  for  at  the  end  of  the  second  month  in  Shelby  county  the  head  of  the  family  was  taken  sud- 
denly with  a  congestive  chill  and  a  few  days  thereafter  died.  And  six  short  weeks  from  the  death  of  her  husband  the  mother  of 
our  subject  passed  away.  Thus  the  home  circle  was  broken  up,  and  the  children,  three  sons  and  one  daughter,  found  homes 
among  strangers,  and  from  that  time  the  recollections  of  the  one  living  (our  subject)  are  of  a  transient  dwelling  place,  sepa- 
arated  from  each  other  and  of  an  early  necessity  to  look  to  their  own  resources  for  that  which  other  children,  more  fortunate, 
-instinctively  seek  through  the  affections  of  a  mother.  Charles  first  found  a  home  for  two  years  with  a  Mr.  Mitchell  and  then 
was  adopted  by  Mr.  John  Duncan,  an  I  with  him  went  to  reside  in  Marion  county,  same  state,  where  he  lived  until  sixteen  )-ears 
of  age.  Then,  on  account  of  his  guardian  not  being  disposed  to  allow  him  to  attend  school,  he  concluded  to  leave  and  first 
found  employment  on  a  farm  which  he  followed  for  the  three  succeeding  years.  He  then,  in  1836,  went  to  Quincy,  111.,  and 
here  learned  the  trade  of  plasterer  and  resided  until  1838.  He  then  returned  to  Shelby  county,  Indiana,  and  the  scenes  of 
his  early  childhood,  and  in  February,  1839,  was  married,  and  then  leased  land  and  engaged  in  farming  until  the  spring  of  1842. 
We  next  find  him  with  his  family  in  Van  Buren  county,  Iowa,  engaged  in  farming.  In  the  spring  of  1850  Mr.  Drain,  like 
many  hundreds  of  others,  concluded  to  brave  the  dangers  of  a  trip  across  the  plains,  to  seek  his  fortune  in  the  gold  fields  of 
California,  and  set  out  from  his  home  in  Van  Buren  county,  Iowa,  with  some  fifteen  companions  and  with  good  outfits  and  an 
abundant  supply  of  provisions,  but'being  of  generous  disposition,  qualities  which  he  still  retains,  he  was  too  free  to  give  to  the 
needy  whom  he  met  on  the  plains,  and  consequently,  on  arriving  at  the  sink  of  the  Humboldt  our  little  party  found  their  supply 
of  provisions  exhausted,  and  then  began  sufferings  and  privations  w  hich  only  those  who  have  been  placed  in  like  situations  can 


APPENDIX.  ry27 

understand.  Mr.  Drain  then  followed  mining  at  Hangtown,  now  I'lacervillc,  for  a  short  time  and  then  engaged  in  rtercanlile 
business  in  Nevada  county,  which  he  continued  until  1851,  when  he  returned,  via.  Panama,  to  his  Iowa  home.  But  being  so 
favorably  impressed  with  the  climate  of  the  Pacific  coast,  he  concluded  to  make  his  fulure  home  on  her  shores.  April  20,  1852, 
found  him  with  his  wife,  two  daughters  and  one  son,  again  on  the  road  across  the  piains,  this  time  to  seek  a  home  in  one  of  the 
fertile  valleys  of  Oregon,  and  arrived  in  Marion  county,  September  20,  1852,  and  settled  on  a  farm  some  ten  miles  from  Albany, 
and  there  followed  farming  for  eight  years.  Mr.  Drain,  in  1854,  -was  elected  a  member  of  the  territorial  council,  and  re-elected 
in  1867,  and  on  the  admission  of  the  territory  into  the  Union  as  a  state,  Mr.  Drain  was  elected  to  the  state  senate  for  four' 
years,  he  having  drawn  the  long  term.  While  a  member  of  the  senate  Mr.  Drain  was  elected  by  his  colleagues  to  the  respon 
sible  position  of  president  of  the  senate.  In  i860  he  leased  his  farm  in  the  Willamette  valley  and  resigned  his  seat  in  the 
state  senate  and  selected  Douglas  county  as  his  future  home,  at  that  lime  locating  on  his  present  valuable  farm,  then  consisting 
of  320  acres,  to  which  he  has  since  added  by  purchase  some  1,7000  more.  In  1S71  Mr.  Drain  donated  sixty  acres  (o  the 
Oregon  and  California  Railroad  Company  for  depot  purposes  and  at  that  time  laid  out  the  beautiful  and  thriving  town  which 
now  bears  his  name.  Mr.  Drain  has  many  warm  personal  friends  throughout  tHe  state,  and  no  man  stands  higher  in  all  those 
principles  retiuired  to  mark  the  true  man,  and  now,  after  an  active  life  of  almost  thiee-quarters  of  a  century,  he  is  prepared  to 
take  the  comforts  of  a  well  spent  and  prosperous  life.  Mr.  Drain  was  united  in  marriage  in  Bartholomew  county,  Indiana 
I-Vl)ruary  12,  1839,  to  Miss  Nancy  G.  Ensley,  a  daughter  of  John  and  Catherine  Gates  Ensley,  and  was  born  in  Venango 
cijunty,  Penn.,  May  20,  1817,  and  when  eight  years  of  age  moved  with  her  parents  to  Indiana,  locating  in  the  county  in  which 
she  was  married.  By  this  union  they  have  had  eight  children,  five  of  whom  are  deceased.  Those  living  are  John  C,  the  lead- 
ing merchant  of  Drain,  and  who  has  already  been  a  member  of  the  assembly  for  Douglas  county,  and  while  there  filled  the 
honorable  position  of  speaker  of  the  house,  Catherine  A.,  now  Mrs.  Simon  R.  Lane;  and  Charles  D.,  also  in  the  mercantile 
business  with  his  brother.  In  conclusion,  we  would  say  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  l5rain  have  raised  a  family  of  children  in  a  manner 
that  reflects  credit  upon  them  as  persons  possessing  practical  sense.  Each  and  every  one  of  their  children  has  beeif  educated 
to  look  upon  life,  not  as  the  idle  drones  upon  the  honey  srored  for  them  by  the  working  bees  in  the  hive;  but  as  a  period  blocked 
out  of  time  in  which  they  are  to  accomplish  something  by  their  own  acts  that  will  not  be  a  discredit  to  themselves  and  the  name 
they  bear.     To  Mr.  Drain  and  men  of  his  kind  Southern  Oregon  owes  its,present  prosperity  and  future  success. 

JOHN  EMMITT.— This  influential  and  wealthy  farmer  and  early  resident  of  Cole's  valley,  is  one  of  those  who 
came  to  Douglas  county  with  small  means,  but  through  industry,  -integrity,  and  correct  business  principles,  he  has  acctmiulated 
a  fortune  sufficient  to  retire  from  the  active  pursuits  of  agriculture.  Mr.  Emmitt  was  born  in  Northumberland  county,  Penn- 
sylvania, October  12,  1S27,  and  came  to  Douglas  county,  Oregon,  m  1852,  and  at  that  time  located  on  the  farm' where  he  now 
resides.  The  incidents  that  have  come  under  Mr.  Emmitt's  observation,  and  in  some  of  which  he  took  a  part,  would  not  be 
least  among  the  great  mass  that  constitute  the  advance  guard  of  civilization  west  of  the  Rockies.  There  are  hundreds,  yes, 
thonsands,  of  similar  experiences,  varying  only  in  the  kind  of  danger  or  misfortune  that  hovered  along  their  trail.  With  ore 
it  was  sickness,  and  anothtr  poverty,  while  a  third  met  starvation  or  the  Indian  onslaught,  and  a  record  of  them  in  full  would 
make  another  Alexandrian  library.  Does  not  a  pioneer  deserve  all  the  benefits  that  fortune  has  dealt  out  to  him,  and  in  many 
cases  much  that  the  fickle  goddess  has  withheld  ?  A  view  of  the  premises  where  Mr.  Emmitt  resides  is  placed  among  the 
illustration  of  this  work.  In  connectfon  with  his  home  farm  he  possesses  a  large  tract  of  rich  farming  land,  some  four  miles 
south  of  his  residence.  Mr.- Emmitt  was  married  in  1847,  to  Miss  Caroline  Thompson.  By  this  union  they  had  twelve 
childreri,  three  of  whom  are  deceased.  Those  living  are  :  Robert  A.,  John  F.,  Willie  A.,  Letha  E.,  Edward  E.,  Rosaline 
M.,  Samuel  E.,  Canira  J.  and  Kittie  R.  • 

MRS.  SARAH  A.  FARNHAM,  lermerly  Miss  Billings,  and  wile  of  the  late  Allen  F.  Farnham,  was  born  May  12, 
1S33,  in  Litchfield,  Maine.  Here  she  grew  to  womanhood,  receiving  a  liberal  education.  Local  facilities  did  not  furnish  the 
means  for  a  thorough  education,  such  as  she  resolved  to  possess,  so  she  went  to  Charleston,  Mass.,  and  entered  the  Female 
Seminary,  where  she  graduated  in  the  class  of  1856.  Two  years  later  Miss  Billings  married  Allen  F.  Farnham,  who  was 
born  in  Woolwich,  Maine,  December  7,  1822.  Her.husband  had  ligtn  a  student  in  the  Bowdoin  college,  but  was  turned  from 
his  purpose  of  taking  a  degree  by  the  gold  excitement  in  CaliforiAi  in  1849.  In  May,  1850,  Mr.  Farnham  arrived  in  California 
and  finally  reached  Scott's  bar,  on  Scott's  river,  Siskiyou  county,  where  he  anchored  permanently,  engaging  in  minmg.  Imlus- 
try  and  enterprise,  coupled  with  good  judgment  made  hirr»one  among  a  tliousand  to  make  mining  a  success.  The  builders  of 
tlie  Eagle  mills  near  Ashland  borrowed  money  from  him  to  complete  that  enterprise,  which  means  were  never  withdrawn,  but 
afterward  applied  on  stock  in  the  company;  later,  Mr.  Farnham  became  sole  proprietor  of  this  property,  which  he  retained  and 
operated  until  his  death,  August"  16,  1876.  Mr.  Farnham  went  to  Jackson  connly,  Oregon,  in  November,  1S64,  and  has 
since  made  several  trips  across  the  continent.  Mrs.  Farnham  lives  in  her  commodious  residence  near  Ashland,  an  illustration 
of  which  appears  in  this  volume.     The  family  consists  of  three  children,   Emma  Eugenia,  Clarence  and  Walter. 

JAMES  L.  FERREY. — In  the  gentleman  whose  name  heads  this  sketch,  we  have  one  of  Marshfield's  most  enter- 
prising business  men;  and  few  who  sojourn  in  Coos  county  but  will  recognize  the  name  as  thai  of  one  of  the  proprietors  of  the 
well  known  and  popular  hostelry,  the  "  Blanco  Hotel."  Mr.  Ferrey  was  born  in  Schuylkill  county,  Penn.,  February  9,  1841, 
and  there  resided  until  sixteen  years  of  .age.  His  parents  then  moved  to  Luzerne  county,  same  stale.  At  the  .age  of  nhiclcen 
years  our  subject  began  the  catpenter's  trade,  at  which  he  continued  until  1862.  He  ihen,  at  the  call  of  his  country,  enlisted 
in  company  A.  136th  Pennsylvania  volunteers,  infantry,for  the  term  of  three  years,  serving  some  tfli  monljis  with  his  regiment. 
Mr.  Ferrey  was  then  transferred  to  the  construction  corps  of  the  western  army,  and  at  one  lime  had  charge  of  building  roa<ls 
anil  bridges.  On  his  return  from  the  war,  Mr.  Ferrey  again  began  to  work  at  his  trade  of  carpenter,  in  diflerent  places,  until 
:S69,  when  we  find  him  in  New  York  city,  where  he  was  joined  by  his  brother  Joseph,  who  had  been  out  to  this  coast,  and 
returned  east.  By  him  our  subject  "Was  induced  to  come  to  Oregon,  arriving  in  Coos  Bay  March  1871.  The  first  few  years 
were  spent  in  diflerent  parts  of  the  county,  and  at  diflerent  employments,  until  1873,  when  he,  with  S.  S.  Bailey,  came  to 
Marshfield  and  leased  a  small  building  for  a  hotel,  located  on  the  present  site  of  the  "  Blanco  Hotel."    After  ten  years  of 


528  APPENDIX. 

patient  toil  and  close  application  to  businesss  Mr.  F.  has  changed  from  the  smail  building  in  which  he  began,  to  his  present 
commodious  and  first  class  hotel,  a  view  of  which  will  be  found  in  this  work.  Mr.  Ferrey  is  ably  assisted  in  his  eflbrts  to 
accommodate  by  his  partner,  Mrs.  Holland.  He  was  married  in  Roseburg,  Douglas  county,  to  Miss  Henrietta  Trott.  They 
have   three  children,  viz:  George  W.,  Eva  E.  and  James  L.,  Jr. 

PATRICK  FLANAGAN. — This  pioneer  of  the  Pacific  coast  and  well  known  resident  of  Southern  Oregon,  is  a 
native  of  county  Antrim,  Ireland,  and  is  now  in  his  fifty-ninth  year.  When  eighteen  years  of  age  he  came  to  America,  and 
first  settled  in  New  York.  The  year  1849  found  him  among  the  Argonauts  coming  to  the  gold  fields  of  California.  He  fol- 
lowed mining  in  that  state  until  1S53,  when  he  came  to  Coos  county,  and  with  Mr.  S.  S.  Mann,  purchased  the  now  wellknown 
Newport  coal  mines.  The  partnership  lasted  over  thirty  years,  and  to  our  subject  belongs  the  greater  part  of  the  credit  of 
opening  and  development  of  the  Coos  bay  coal  fields.  Mr.  Flanagan  sold  out  his  interest  in  the  mines  in  January,  1S84,  to 
the  Newport  Coal  Company,  but  is  still  retained  as  superintendent.  Mr.  F.  is  a  genial  and  hospitable  man,  highly  respected 
and  honored  by  the  community  in  which  he   lives — is  married  and  has  an  interesting  family  of  seven  children.   - 

A.  R.  FLINT. — The  genealogy  of  Mr.  Flint's  family  extends  back  to  Thomas  Flint,  whose  first  record  appears  in 
Salem,  Massachusetts,  in  1650— conclusive  evidence  showing  that  his  mother  was  there  in  1642 — and  that  they  came  from 
Wales  in  Great  Britain.  A.  R.  Flint — the  subject  of  this  sketch — is  in  the  seventh  generation  from  Thomas  Flint,  and  was 
barn  in  North  Reading,  Massachusetts,  August  17,  1808.  While  attending  the  Teacher's  seminary,  at  Andover,  Massachu- 
setts, particular  attention  was  given  to  surveying  and  engineering.  While  there.  Colonel  Long,  of  the  U.  S.  army  (discoverer 
of  Long's  Peak  in  the  Rocky  mountains),  permitted  him,  with  his  class,  to  take  part  in  the  preliminary  survey  of  a  railroad 
fro.n  Belfast,  Maine,  to  Quebec — thus  putting  theory  into  practice.  In  1846  engaged  in  a  preliminary  survey  of  a  railroad  from 
fro.Ti  Valparaiso  to  Santiago,  Chili,  from  which  place,  with  his  family,  he  sailed  for  California,  attracted  by  the  gold  excite- 
ment, ariiving  in  San  Francisco  in  184S.  In  1848-9,  he  surveyed  Goat  island,  and  laid  out  what  was  then  known  as  South 
San  Francisco.  Came  to  Oregon  in  1850  to  lay  out  the  town  of  Winchester  ;  returning  to  San  Francisco  came  again,  with 
family,  on  the  first  steamer  that  came  into  Umpqua  river.  Was  postmaster  at  Winchester,  and  also  appointed  clerk  of  the 
court  by  Judge  Deady.  Had  charge  of  Wilbur  academy  in  1856-7,  and  of  Roseburg  academy  one  year  following.  Was 
appointed  receiver  of  the  land  office  in  Roseburg,  holding  the  position  seven  years  ;  since  which  time  he  has  been  principally 
employed  in  surveying  government  lands;  Was  married  March  26,  1840,  to  Elizabeth  Cragin,  of  East  Douglas,  Massachu- 
setts.    Children,  Helen  Azrebah,  Sarah  Elizabeth,  Isabel  Cragin  (deceased),  Martha  Virginia  and  Samuel  Collins. 

JOHN  CREED  FLOED,  prior  to  his  death  was  a  resident  of  Roseburg,  and  one  of  the  most  successful  merchants  in 
Southern  Oregon.  He  was  born  in  Amherst  county,  Virginia,  in  1816,  and  was,  therefore,  at  the  time  of  his  death,  which 
occurred  in  18S3,  sixty-seven  years  old.  He  was  married  to  Miss  Sarah  E.  Lane,  daughter  of  Gen.  Joseph  Lane,  July  10, 
1851,  and  in  1852  they  came  to  this  state  arriving  first  at  Oregon  City.  A  brief  stoppage  there,  and  they  started  for  the  then 
wild  region  of  the  Umpqua  valley,  where  they  arrived,  during  the  fall,  at  Winchester.  At  this  place  Mr.  Floed  entered  into 
business  as  a  merchant,  being  one  of  the  pioneer  merchants  of  this  county.  When  Douglas  county  was  organized  Winchester 
was  designated  as  the  county  seat  until  a  suitable  county  seat  had  been  selected  by  the  citizens  at  the  polls.  Roseburg  having 
been  selected  as  county  seat,  Mr.  Floed  moved  his  stock  of  goods  to  that  place,  where  he  entered  into  business.  Mr.  Floed's 
success  in  life  and  business  has  been  mainly  achieved  by  the  proper  exercise  of  economy,  industry  and  business  integrity,  guided 
by  intelligent  financial  ability.  The  following  are  the  names  of  his  children,  Mary  present  wife  of  Hon.  F.  P.  Hogan,  Emma 
(deceased),  J.  C.  Floed,  Jr.,  S.  Fred,  Lavina  (deceased),  and  Maggie  (deceased). 

JOHN  FULLERTON.— This  well  known  resident  of  Douglas  county,  was  born  in  Warren  county,  Ohio,  May  iS, 
1S20,  and  resided  with  his  parents  on  a  farm  until  his  sixteenth  year.  He  then  went  to  Jacksonburg,  Butler  county,  same  state, 
and  there  served  an  apprenticeship  at  the  wagon  and  plow  making  trade.  At  the  ex]iiration  of  his  apprenticeship  he  moved  to 
Rossville  and  engaged  in  business  for  himself  in  the  manufacture  of  wagons  and  plows,  doing  a  large  and  successful  business 
until  February,  1849,  when  he  closed  out  and  started  for  the  golden  state  via  Panama.  On  arriving  at  the  latter  place  he  was 
compelled  to  remain  some  four  months,  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  vessels  coming  to  San  Francisco,  and  engaged  in  the 
survey  of  the  Panama  railroad  across  the  isthmus.  Arriving  in  San  Francisco  July  12,  1849,  he,  like  most  all  the  Argonauts, 
immediately  proceeded  to  the  mines  and  first  worked  on  the  American  river,  and  later  in  Shasta  county,  until  March  1S51, 
when  he  with  his  present  near  neighbor  and  old  friend,  Hon.  James  F.  Gazley,  came  to  Oregon  with  the  intention  of  purchasing 
cattle  to  drive  back  to  the  mines,  but  being  so  favorably  impressed  by  the  beauties  of  the  country  he  concluded  to  locate,  and 
(Ook  up  his  donation  claim  where  he  now  resides,  to  which  he  has  since  added  by  purchase  until  now  he  has  a  farm  of  over  400 
acres,  situated  near  Canyonville.  A  view  of  his  residence  will  be  found  in  this  history.  Mr.  FuUerton  held  the  office  of 
sheriff  of  Douglas  r:ounty  from  1S58  to  1862,  and  is  a  gentleman  well  and  favorably  known  and  highly  respected  by  the  citizens 
of  the  county  in  which  he  resides.  Was  married  in  Rosvislle,  Ohio,  December  15,  1843,  to  Miss  Jane  Rolfe,  a  native  of  Butler 
county,  Ohio,  by  which  union  they  have  six  children,  viz:  James  C,  the  present  receiver  of  public  moneys  of  the  U.  S.  land 
office  at  Roseburg;  Eva,  now  Mrs.  John  O.  Mocine;  Addie  Alice,  now  Mrs.  Wm.  R.  McKenzie;  Delia  and  John  B. 

OSCAR  OVID  GANIARD.  The  subject  of  this  sketch,  whose  home  is  illustrated  in  this  history,  is  one  of  the 
prominent  farmers  and  merchants  of  the  northern  part  of  Jackson  county,  and  was  born  in  Genessee  county.  New  York,  on 
January  28,  1833.  He  was  raised  on  a  farm  until  he  reached  the  age  of  fifteen,  and  accompanied  his  parents  to  Jonesville, 
Hillsdale  county,  Michigan,  in  1842,  where  the  family  commenced  building  up  a  new  home  in  the  wilderness.  Oscar  caught 
the  gold  fever  and  emigrated  to  Oregon  in  1852,  reaching  Oregon  City  in  the  fall  of  that  year  and  remained  there  a  few- 
months.  In  October,  1852,  he  came  to  Jackson  county  and  mined  on  Jackson  creek,  but  during  the  starvation  times  of  1852-3 
he  was  forced  to  return  to  Portland,  where  he  remained  until  1856,  in  which  year  he  settled  near  Democrat  gulch,  Josephine 
county,  Oregon,  where  he  purchased  a  farm  and  afterwards  established  a  mercantile  business  which  he  conducted  in  connection 
with  farming.  In  1858  Mr.  Ganiard  went  to  visit  his  parents  at  his  old  home  in  Michigan  and  married  Lucinda  Ganiard  on 
July  5,  1858.     She  is  a  native  of  Rochester,  New  York,  and  was  born  November  10,  1838.     In    1872   Mr.    Ganiard  became  a 


APPENDIX.  529 

a  resident  of  Jackson  county,  purchasing  the  "Leslie"  ranch  in  Sam's  valley,  and  has  since  added  to  thai  property  until  he  now 
owns  four  thousand  acres  of  valuable  land.  lie  has  a  store  on  the  place  and  is  engaged  in  merchandising  as  well  as  farming 
Mr.  Cianiard  is  regarded  as  an  intelligent  financier,  liberal  in  all  matters  where  the  judgment  of  others  is  to  be  regarded,  al- 
ways according  to  his  neighbors  their  full  rights.  He  is  considered  one  of  the  progressive  farmers  and  business  men  of  the 
county,  and  always  interests  himself  in  the  prosperity  of  the  community  in  which  he  resides.  Their  only  living  child  is  Lottie. 
Their  two  sons,  Freddie  and  Oscar,  died  in  1883. 

ORLANDO  COOLIDGE  lives  at  Ashland,  and  is  extensively  engaged  in  the  nur.sery  business.  He  was  born  in 
O.xford  county,  Maine,  and  came  to  this  state  and  county  in  1851.  In  1857  he  was  married  to  Miss  Mary  J.  Foss,  in  the  slate 
of  Illinois.  One  child,  Minnie  J.  Mr.  Coolidge  established  a  nursery  in  Ashland  in  1S69.  He  has  introduced  almost  every 
variety  of  fruit,  forest  and  ornamental  trees,  also  nearly  every  desirable  variety  of  plants  and  flowers.  To  Mr.  Coolidge's  un- 
tiring energy  and  industry,  and  to  Mrs.  Coolidge's  taste  and  love  of  flowers,  is  Southern  Oregon  indebted  for  very  much  of  the 
beautiful  and  useful  that  enriches  and  adorns  the  country.  Their  home  is  a  home  of  fruits  and  flowers,  and  is  the  admiration  of 
every  beholder.     A   view   of  this  beautiful  residence  will  be  found  among  the  illustrations  of  this  work. 

HENRY  GATES:  this  well  known  and  popular  resident  of  Roseburg,  proprietor  of  the  Roseburg  Flouring  mills,  is  a 
native  of  Dunkirk,  N.  V.,  born  January  26,  1832;  residing  on  his  father's  farm  until  he  attained  the  age  of  20  years.  He  then 
started  to  learn  the  trade  of  carpentering  which  he  followed  for  four  years.  Mr.  Gates  then  in  his  native  town  learned  the 
trade  of  a  miller.  Being  master  of  two  good  trades  he  concluded  to  come  west  and  a  few  months  later  found  him  in  Perry 
county,  111.,  where  he  worked  at  carpentering  for  some  three  years.  In  i860,  he  moved  to  Fillmore  county,  Minn.,  where  he 
resided  until  1870.  In  the  early  part  of  1865  our  subject  returned  to  Ohio  where  he  enlisted  in  Co.,  K.  195th  Ohio  Vol.,  and 
served  during  the  remainder  of  the  war  being  discharged  December  24,  of  the  same  year.  On  receiving  his  discharge  Mr.  Gates 
immediately  returned  to  his  home  in  Minnesota.  In  the  fall  of  1870,  on  account  of  the  severe  winters  in  the  northwest  he  con- 
cluded to  seek  a  milder  climate  and  selected  Oregon  as  his  future  home.  On  his  arrival  here  he  came  direct  to  Douglas  county, 
locating  in  Roseburg  and  for  the  following  si.\  years  engaged  at  his  trade  of  carpenter  and  builder.  In  August,  1876,  Mr.  Gales 
leased  the  Roseburg  Flouring  mills,  and  three  years  later  purchased  a  half  interest,  the  firm  name  being  Jones  &  Gates.  In 
June,  1882,  this  firm  was  changed  by  the  purchase  of  Mr.  Jones'  interest  by  Mr.  T.  J.  Criteser.  This  new  firm  of  Gates  & 
Criteser  have  made  many  valuable  improvements  in  the  old  mill — as  it  was  one  of  the  very  first  mills  built  in  Southern  Oregon. 
A  view  of  the  mill,  and  also  of  Mr.  Gates'  residence,  will  be  found  in  this  work.  Mr.  Gates  was  married  in  Fillmore  county, 
Minn.,  September,  1S61,  to  Miss  Sarah  M.  Bean,  by  which  union  they  have  two  children,  Daisy  A.  and  Lafayette  O. 

THOMAS  K.  GARDNER,  a  resident  of  Putnam  valley,  and  engaged  in  farming;  is  a  native  of  Licking  county,  Ohio, 
born  May  15,  1S43.  In  1S53  his  parents  crossed  the  plains  to  Oregon  and  came  to  Douglas  county  direct.  His  parents  first 
settled  on  the  Siuslaw,  where  they  remained  until  i860,  when  they  moved  to  the  neighborhood  where  our  subject  now  resides, 
five  miles  west  of  Drain.  Here  Thomas  K.,  engaged  in  farming  for  himself  in  which  he  has  been  successful,  now  owning  a 
valuable  and  well  improved  farm  of  920  acres.     A  view  of  his  residence  is  placed  in  this  work. 

HON.  JAMES  F.  GAZLEY. — In  the  gentleman  whose  name  heads  this  short  memoir,  we  have  a  ha])py  combina- 
tion of  law7er,  statesman  and  a  most  successful  farmer.  He  is  a  man  whom  nature  fitted  in  her  happy  mood  with  a  combina- 
tion of  qualities  that  could  hardly  fail  to  guide  its  possessor  to  success — qualities  which  especially  fit  him  to  deal  with  men. 
With  manners  suave — a  disposition  to  accommodate,  and  generous  promptings  toward  his  fellows — he  greets  the  stranger,  the 
customer,  or  the  friend,  in  that  peculiar  way  which  carries  with  it  an  impression  of  a  kind  wish  implied,  which  seldom  fails  to 
leave  a  desire  with  the  recipient  to  do  him  a  favor  if  he  can.  It  is  a  happy  faculty,  and  it  gives  the  possessor  what  he  deserves, 
a  friendship  and  respect  among  men  that  is  bounded  only  by  the  e.xtent  of  his  acquaintance.  Such  are  the  qualities  of  the 
gentleman  of  whom  we  write.  Mr.  Gazley  is  a  native  of  Courtland  county,  New  Vork,  and  first  saw  the  light  of  day  Septem- 
ber 12,  1822,  and  in  that  county  lived  on  his  father's  farm  until  the  spring  of  1840.  He  with  his  parents  then  moved  west, 
locating  in  Bradford  county,  Penn.  Having  the  advantage  of  a  good  education,  he  began  reading  law,  and  a  few  years  later 
was  admitted  to  the  bar,  in  which  honorable  profession  he  continued  until  the  spring  of  1849,  when  he  concluded  to  seek  his 
fortune  in  the  new  Eldorado.  Casting  aside  Blackstone,  with  seven  companions  and  with  o\  teams,  made  a  safe  transit  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  arriving  in  California  in  the  latter  part  of  July  1849.  Mr.  Gazley  immediately  proceeded  to  the  mines  in 
Shasta  county,  and  embarked  in  mining  for  two  years  with  fair  success.  In  March  1851,  he,  with  his  present  near  neighbor, 
John  FuUerton,  came  to  Oregon  to  purchase  cattle  with  the  intention  of  returning  to  California;  but  on  passing  through  the 
county  where  they  now  reside,  they  were  so  favorably  impressed  with  the  advantages  presented  that  they  concluded  to  locate, 
and  at  that  early  date  settled  on  the  fine  farm  which  he  now  possesses,  located  at  Canyonville,  Douglas  county,  and  engaged 
in  agriculture  and  stock  raising.  In  1852  our  subject  returned  to  his  old  home  in  Pennsylvania,  for  ihe  purpose  of  bringing 
out  his  young  wife  and  son,  to  their  Oregon  home.  Mr.  G.  has  always  taken  an  active  part  in  politics,  and  in  June  1S54,  was 
elected  to  the  territorial  legislature,  and  again  elected  in  1858.  In  i860  he  was  elected  to  the  state  senate,  and  while  there 
used  his  voice  and  influence  in  favor  of  the  Union  cause.  In  1862  JMr.  G.  was  elected  to  the  office  of  district  attorney,  for 
Douglas,  Jackson  and  Josephine  counties,  and  was  twice  elected  delegate  to  carry  the  presidential  electoral  vote  to  Washington 
In  1868  we  again  find  him  representing  Douglas  county  in  the  state  legislature.  In  every  office  that  Mr.  Gazley  has  filled  he 
has  always  used  his  best  endeavors  for  the  advancement  of  his  county  and  for  the  benefit  of  the  state  at  large.  It  is  no  flattery 
to  say  he  filled  them  with  credit  and  satisfaction  to  his  constituents  and  honor  to  him.self.  Mr.  Gazley  was  united  in  marriage 
in  Crawford  county,  Pennsylvania,  in  August  1848,  to  Miss  Adaline  Adams,  a  native  of  that  slate,  by  which  union  they  have 
five  children,  viz:  James  F.,  Jr.,  Clarence,  Helen,  now  Mrs.  G.  W.  Riddle;  Minnie  and  Elmer.  A  view  of  .Mr.  Gazley's 
place  will  be  found  in  this  work. 

THOMAS  J.  GILLAM  was  born  in  Huntington  county,  Pennsylvania,  September  2,  1833^  When  he  was  six 
years  of  age  his  parents  removed  to  Virginia,  and  there  resided  until  1840,  when  they  moved  west,  locating  in  Henry  county 
Iowa,  and  embarked  in  farming.      In  April,  1852.  he,  with  his  father  (his  mother  having  died  during  their  residence  in  Iowa), 


530  APPENDIX. 

two  sisters  and  tliree  brothers,  started  with  ox  teams  for  Oregon,  and  arrived  at  The  IJalles  October  7,  and  from  there  came 
direct  to  Douglas  county.  Locating  at  Winchester  he  engaged  in  farming,  and  for  two  years  was  a  partner  with  Mr.  John 
Aikin,  Sr.,  in  a  ferry  at  that  place.  About  1868  yU.  Gillam  purchased  a  farm  of  700  acres  in  Garden  valley,  w^here  he  resided 
until  1880,  when  he  leased  his  farm  and  removed  to  the  town  of  Wilbur,  induced  to  do  so  to  secure  the  advantages  of  a 
better  school.  Purchasing  some  twenty-five  acres  of  land  adjoining  the  town,  he  built  a  beautiful  residence,  where  lie  now 
lives.  A  view  of  his  dwelling  will  be  found  in  this  volume.  Mr.  Gillam  was  married  Sept.  15,  1859,  to  Miss  Elizabeth 
Ingram.     They  have  four  children:  James  C,  Minnie  L.,  John  and  Emily. 

JOHN  L.  GRUBB — a  view  of  whose  residence  is  placed  among  the  illustrations  of  this  work — was  born  in  Louisa 
county,  Iowa.  When  but  a  small  boy,  Mr.  Grubb  emigrated  with  his  parents,  in  1852,  to  Jackson  county,  Oregon,  On  attain- 
ing his  majority  our  subject  engaged  in  farming  for  himself,  to  which  he  has  since  added  stock  raising.  The  latter  pursuit  he 
is  now  largely  engaged  in  on  his  farm  near  Jacksonville. 

GEORGE  V.  GURNEY.  The  subject  of  this  sketch,  who  in  partnership  with  his  brother,  J.  W.  Gurney,  owns  and 
operates  the  sawmill,  a  sketch  of  which  appears  in  this  work,  known  by  the  name  of  Gurney  mill,  which  is  situated  on  Bear  creek  in 
Ten-mile  valley,  Douglas  county,  was  born  in  Lee  county,  Iowa,  on  December  22,  1851.  At  the  age  of  seven  years  he  was 
taken  to  Oregon  and  settled  among  the  first  arrivals  in  the  district  of  Ten-mile.  Mr.  Gurney  was  married  January  I,  1876,  to 
Miss  Jane  Fisher.  Mr.  Gurney,  by  the  exercise  of  industry,  enterprise  and  good  judgment,  has  acquired  a  first-rate  financial 
standing  among  the  people  of  Ten-mile,  and  has  done  much  to  develop  the  resources  of  that  section.  He  possesses,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  mill  property,  a  farm  of  280  acres.  Mrs.  E.  Gurney,  the  revered  mother  of  the  above  named  gentleman,  now  re- 
sides a  mile  distant  from  the  mill.  An  elegant  illustration  of  her  well  cultivated  homestead  appears  herein.  This  farm  may  be 
said  to  be  one  of  the  principal  ornaments  in  the  vicinity  of  Ten-mile. 

HON.  BINGER  HERMAN.— Mr.  Herman  was  born  in  Lonaconing,  Pennsylvania,  in  1843.  The  son  of  that  Dr. 
Henry  Herman,  who,  as  narrated  elsewhere  in  this  work,  founded  the  colony  of  Baltimore  immigrants  on  the  headwaters  of 
the  Coquille.  The  son  received  a  suitable  education  at  various  country  schools,  and  at  the  Irving  college  in  Winchesier,  Md., 
graduating  from  the  latter  institution  at  the  age  of  seventeen.  In  1859  the  Hermans  set  out  with  about  twenty  other  families, 
like  themselves  of  German  descent,  and  after  a  long  voyage  came  to  Port  Orford,  and  eventually  found  their  way  to  the  fertile 
and  beautiful  countiy  about  the  south  fork  of  the  Coquille,  and  there  located  permanently,  colonizing  the  region  and  doing 
their  utmost  to  bring  out  its  capabilities.  Binger  Herman,  in  i860,  being  then  eighteen  years  old,  opened  a  school  for  the 
instruction  of  the  neighboring  youth,  it  being  the  first  ever  established  in  the  Coquille  valley.  A  short  time  later  we  find  him 
pursuing  his  profession  of  teaching  in  Yoncalla  valley,  and  in  Canyonville.  Successful  as  a  teacher,  he  was  not  satisfied  with 
the  inducements  the  pursuit  offered,  and  in  1865  he  turned  to  the  profession  of  the  law  and  began  preparation  for  that  arduous 
yet  successful  career  which  he  has  since  follow^ed.  In  1866,  he  was  admitted  to  the  bar,  and  in  the  same  year  received  his  first 
civic  honor  in  being  elected  to  the  lower  branch  of  the  legislature  of  Oregon.  Shortly  after,  Mr.  Herman  proceeded  to  San 
Francisco  and  entered  the  law  office  of  Hon.  John  B.  Felton.  the  great  civil  lawyer,  and  continued  there  his  studies  in  juris- 
prudence, with  ihe  greatest  profit.  In  1S68  he  was  elected  joint  senator  for  Douglas,  Coos  and  Curry  counties,  and  three  years 
later  was  appointed  by  the  president  Receiver  of  the  Roseburg  land  office.  This  position  he  held  for  two  years,  relinquishing  it 
to  enter  upon  the  practice  of  the  law  at  Roseburg,  which  he  has  since  pursued  with  success  and  an  increasing  reputation.  Mr. 
Herman  was  married  in  Douglas  county  in  1868,  to  Miss  Flora  Tibbetts.  They  have  four  children:  Cyrus,  Schiller,  Milton 
and  Mabel. 

PATRICK  HUGHES.  The  subject  of  this  sketch  is  a  native  of  Ireland,  and  at  the  age  of  seventeen  years  emi- 
grated to  America,  locating  in  Massachusetts.  He  came  to  California  in  1856,  where  he  engaged  in  mining  until  1S57.  He 
then  came  to  Oregon  and  located  on  his  present  ranch,  now  consisting  of  two  thousand  acres,  where  he  is  largely  engaged  in 
the  stock  and  dairy  business,  near  Cape  Blanco  Light  House,  and  a  short  distance  from  Sixes  river.  Mr.  Hughes  is  married 
and  has  seven  children:  Edward  T.,  James  S.,  John  C,  Thomas  P.,  Francis  J.,  Alice  J.  and  Mary  E. 

HENRY  JONES  was  born  in  Preble  county,  Ohio,  April  27,  1827,  and  there  resided  until  1852,  when  he  came 
across  the  plains  to  Oregon  direct  to  Douglas  county  and  engaged  in  agriculture  and  stock  raising  on  the  farm  where  he  resides, 
now  consisting  of  680  acres,  located  on  Myrtle  creek,  three  miles  from  the  town  of  Myrtle  Creek.  A  view  of  this  fine  farm 
will  be  found  among  the  illustrations  in  this  work.     Mr.  Jones  is  a  gentleman  highly  respected  in  the  community  where  he  lives. 

JOSEPH  JONES;  this  well  known  farmer  of  Looking-glass  district,  a  view  of  whose  handsome  residence  appears  in 
this  work,  is  a  native  of  Gurnsey  county,  Ohio,  and  was  born  February  20,  1840.  When  but  eight  years  of  age  his  parents 
started  to  cross  the  plains  to  the  Pacific  coast,  but  on  arriving  in  Marion  county,  Indiana,  were  persuaded  by  relatives  to  dis- 
continue their  trip  and  remain  in  the  latter  named  county,  ilr.  Jones'  father  then  located  on  a  farm  on  which  they  resided  for 
four  years.  April,  1852,  he,  with  his  parents  and  six  sisters,  again  started  to  complete  their  interrupted  trip.  When  near  Fort 
Laramie  the  family  sustained  an  irrepairable  loss  in  the  death  of  the  mother.  They  finally  proceeded  on  their  way  and  arrived 
in  Portland  in  November.  After  a  short  residence  our  subject  started  for  Astoria  where  he  remained  two  years.  In  the  spring 
of  1855,  came  to  Douglas  county,  where  he  has  since  resided  with  the  exception  of  four  years  from  1862  to  1866  spent  in  the 
mines  of  Idaho.  On  his  return  Mr.  Jones  again  took  up  farming  and  in  the  fall  of  1 881  purchased  his  present  beautiful  and 
valuable  farm  located  on  ]  .ooking-glass  creek,  three  miles  from  the  town  of  Looking-glass,  where  he  now  resides,  highly 
esteemed  by  his  neighbors  and  the  people  of  the  county  in  general.  Mr.  Jones,  was  united  in  marriage,  in  the  French  Settle- 
ment, October  27,  1867,  to  Miss  Roena  Wright,  daughter  of  John  W.  Wright,  a  highly  respected  citizen  of  Douglas  county. 
They  have  a  family  of  six  children,  viz:  Joseph  E..  Emma,  John  M.,  Ralph,  Sarah  R.  and  Elizabeth. 

HENRY  KLIPPEL;  born  in  Germany,  December  11,  1833.  His  parents  brought  him  to  America  when  four  years  old, 
and  .settled  at  Cincinnati,  Ohio.  His  father  died  here  and  the  family  moved  to  St.  Joseph,  ilo.  In  1851,  Mr.  Klippel  crossed 
the  plains  to  Oregon,  arriving  August  i6th,  of  that  year.  After  remaining  in  the  Willamette  valley  about  six  weeks,  he  came 
across  the  state  to  Yreka  with  a  gentleman  who  was  going  to  that  place:  arriving  in  the  fall.     Here  he  mined  during  the  winter 


APPENDIX.  531 

and  in  February,  1852,  came  to  Jacksonville,  Jackson  county.  He  mined  first  al  Galice  creek,  Josephine  county,  but  soon 
returned  to  Rich  Gulch  where  he  engaged  principally  in  mining  until  1S57,  after  which  time  he  followed  various  occupations 
until  i860,  when  the  Gold  Hill  mine  was  struck.  He  then  gave  this  mine  his  entire  attention  and  put  up  on  that  mine  the  first 
quartz  mill  built  in  Oregon.  In  1864  he  went  to  Idaho  and  mined  successfully— returning  in  the  fall  of  that  year.  In  1868, 
engaged  in  the  hardware  trade  in  company  with  Wm.  Hoffman.  This  business  he  followed  for  six  years.  At  the  incorporation 
of  Jacksonville,  he  was  elected  recorder,  and  afterwards  president  of  the  board  of  trustees.  In  1870  was  elected  sheriff  of 
Jackson  county,  holding  the  office  one  term.  In  1872,  he  was  appointed  one  of  the  capitol  commissioners,  and  after  the  first 
year  was  elected  president  of  the  board.  In  1S74,  the  legislature  met,  and  Mr.  Klippel  was  elected  to  the  office  of  capitol  com- 
missioner, and  resigned  about  November,  1874.  Returning  to  Jacksonville,  built  another  quartz  mill  with  Mr.  Beekman  on  the 
Jewett  claim.  He  was  also  one  of  the  discoverers  of  the  Emeline  cinnabar  mine,  which  yielded  a  fair  per  cent,  of  quicksilver. 
In  1S74,  he  was  chairman  of  the  democratic  state  central  cojnmittee  and  in  1876  nominated  for  a  Tilden  elector.  In  1872,  he 
was  nominated  by  the  democratic  party  to  represent  Jackson  county  in  the  legislature,  but  was  defeated.  In  1S77,  he  with  a 
company  built  a  water  ditch  from  Swan  Lake  to  the  mines  they  owned  on  Applegate  and  run  a  hydraulic  mine.  These  mines 
he  took  charge  of  after  the  completion  of  the  ditch,  and  followed  this  business  until  18S0,  when  he  was  elected  county  clerk; 
-elected  in   1882  and  is   the  present  incumbent.     Mr.  Klippel  married  Elizabeth  J.  Bingham,  January  24th,  i860,  and  they 


have  five  childr 


nng. 


GENERAL  JOSEPH  LANE.— Joseph  Lane  was  born  in  North  Corolina  on  the  14th  of  December.  1801.  The 
years  of  his  childhood  and  youth  were  spent  in  the  family  circle  of  his  father,  who  was  for  some  years  a  resident  of  Henderson 
county,  Kentucky.  At  the  age  of  twenty  years  Joseph  Lane  married  Miss  Polly  Hart,  and  settled  in  Vanderburg  county,  In- 
diana, and  there  for  more  than  twenty-five  years  led  the  life  of  a  farmer.  At  that  early  age  he  began  to  assume  prominence 
among  men,  and  his  mental  and  moral  qualities  were  recognized  by  his  fellow-citizens,  who  made  him  their  representative  in  the 
legislature  of  the  state  of  Indiana,  and  he  filled  this  position  during  nearly  all  his  residence  among  them.  When  the  -Mexican 
war  began.  State  Senator  Lane  resigned  his  seat  and  made  preparations  to  take  part  in  hostilities,  and  was  elected  colonel  of 
the  second  regiment  of  Indiana  Volunteers,  then  on  its  way  to  the  seat  of  war.  Before  his  departure  he  received  a  commission 
as  Brigadier-General  of  Volunteers,  and  was  ordered  to  report  for  duty  at  General  Taylor's  headquarters  at  Brazos,  Texas. 
During  the  campaign  which  preceded  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  General  Lane  was  actively  employed  and  in  the  glorious  vic- 
tory achieved  by  the  American  troops  he  took  a  very  important  part,  commanding  the  left  wing  of  Taylor's  army.  He  was  se- 
verely wounded  by  a  bullet  in  the  shoulder,  but,  in  spite  of  pain,  remained  upon  the  field  until  victory  was  assured.  Distin- 
guished by  his  conduct  in  this  battle,  and  praised  by  his  commander,  General  Lane  immediately  attained  a  position  in  the  pub- 
lic estimation  second  to  no  other  officer  in  the  service.  The  period  of  enlistment  of  his  brigade  had  now  expired,  and  the 
General  accompanied  it  to  New  Orleans,  where  the  troops  were  mustered  out.  This  duty  performed,  he  returned  to  General 
Taylor's  army,  but  was  almost  immediately  ordered  to  join  General  Scott,  who  was  now  on  his  celebrated  march  from  Vera 
Cruz  to  Mexico.  General  Lane,  leading  a  brigade  composed  of  the  Fourth  Ohio  and  Fourth  Indiana  Volunteers,  with  several 
independent  organizations,  numbering,  altogether,  3,000  men,  set  out  upon  his  march  to  reinforce  the  American  army  then 
fighting  its  way,  step  by  step,  from  Pueblo  to  the  City  of  Mexico  General  Lane's  services  were  arduous  in  the  extreme.  The 
route  swarmed  with  guerrillas  and  organized  bodies  of  Mexican  troops,  who  resisted  his  advance  and  were  successfully  defeated 
by  him  at  Huamantia,  on  October  9,  1847;  at  Atlixco  on  the  19th  of  the  same  month,  and  at  Tlascala  on  the  29th.  Matamoras, 
fifty-four  miles  from  Pueblo,  was  taken  by  assault  on  the  22nd  of  November,  and  on  the  14th  of  December  the  headquarters  of 
General  Scott  were  reached.  Subsequently,  General  Lane  and  his  soldiers  were  actively  employed  in  the  closing  battles  of  the 
war,  and  in  clearing  the  country  of  guerrillas.  In  January,  1848,  an  attempt  was  made  by  his  division  to  capture  General 
Santa  Anna,  but  unsuccessfully.  General  Lane  took  Orizaba  in  the  same  month,  and  on  the  24th  of  February  defeated  the  in- 
famous Padre  Jarauta,  the  guerilla  chief,  at  Tehualtaplan.  This  action  closed  the  war,  and  the  General  returned  to  the 
United  States,  having  attained  an  enviable  reputation  as  a  military  officer,  and,  what  was  dearer  to  him,  the  unbounded  regard 
of  his  fellow  soldiers.  It  has  been  customary  to  call  him  the  "Marion  of  the  Mexican  war" — a  fit  designation  for  an  officer  so 
liolil,  courageous  and  full  of  resources,  and  withal  so  patriotic  in  mind  and  acts.  The  government's  appreciation  of  his 
career  was  marked  by  the  bestowal  of  the  rank  of  Brevet  Major  General  of  Volunteers,  his.  commission  dating  from  the  battle 
of  Huamantia.  It  has  well  been  said  that  no  officer  of  his  rank  who  served  in  the  Mexican  war  rendered  such  important  ser- 
vices to  his  country  or  gained  greater  fame  by  his  abilities  and  courage.  Returning  to  his  quiet  and  peaceful  home  in  Indiana, 
General  Lane  sought  rest  from  the  fatigues  of  military  life,  amid  the  pleasant  surroundings  of  his  rural  abode.  But  he  was  not 
destined  to  remain  long  in  inactivity,  for  his  unsolicited  and  unexpected  appointment  to  the  governorship  of  the  newly  organ- 
ized territory  of  Oregon,  drew  him  from  his  former  mode  of  life  and  cast  his  lot  with  those  who  were  henceforth  to  be  his  fellow 
citizens.  He  came  to  the  Pacific  slope  by  way  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  accompanied  by  a  military  escort  and  arriving  in 
San  Francisco  in  February,  1849,  '00k  p.assage  to  the  Columbia  on  a  sailing  vessel  and  arrived  at  Oregon  City,  on  the  Wil- 
lamette, OP  the  evening  of  March  2,  1S49,  and  next  day  issued  his  proclamation  as  governor  of  the  territory  of  Oregon— her 
first  and  by  far  her  most  distinguished  executive.  The  duties  of  his  office  were  discharged  with  uncommon  tact  and  justice  un- 
til in  August  of  the  following  year,  when,  a  new  political  party  having  come  in  power,  his  successor  was  appointed.  The  Gen- 
eral now  spent  a  short  time  as  a  miner  in  Northern  California  and  also  participated  in  Kearney's  campaign  against  the  Rogue 
River  Indians  in  1851.  In  the  latter  part  of  that  year  he  was  chosen  territorial  delegate  to  Congress.  In  185.5  he  distinguished 
himself  greatly  in  the  Rogue  river  war  of  that  year,  and  he  received  a  severe  wound  at  the  battle  of  Evans'  creek.  The  subse- 
quent treaty  with  the  savages  was  brought  about  largely  through  his  influence,  as  related  elsewhere.  Subsequently,  until  the 
admission  of  Oregon  into  the  Union,  General  Lane  served  the  people,  as  their  delegate  in  Congress,  with  distinguished  fidelity. 
In  1857  the  state  festified  her  appreciation  by  his  election  as  United  States  Senator,  a  position  which  he  held  until  1861.  In 
i860  the  Democratic  convention  at  Baltimore  nominated  the  popular  General  and  Senator  for  the  office  of  Vice-President  of 
the  United  States  on  the  ticket  with  John    C.    Breckenridge.     The  details  of  the  ensuing  canvass  are,  after  the  lapse  of  over 


532  APPENDIX. 

twenty  years,  still  fresh  in  the  popular  mind.  General  Lane's  political  beliefs  led  him  to  throw  the  weight  of  his  influence  in 
favor  of  the  South,  in  the  beginning  of  the  mighty  struggle  that  was  about  to  commence,  and  yielding  to  his  honest  convictions 
of  justice  and  right,  he  retired  to  his  home  near  Roseburg,  and  never  again  entered  public  life.  The  remaining  years  of  Joseph 
Lane's  career  were  spent  on  his  farm  and  in  the  bosom  of  his  family.  Having  w  ithdrawn  from  politics  and  from  the  public  service  of 
his  fellow  men,  he  concentrated  upon  agricultural  pursuits  the  powers  of  mind  and  energies  which  had  distinguished  him  in 
previous  occupations.  His  character  may  be  compared  to  that  of  Washington,  who  was  content  to  hide  in  the  placid  retreat  of 
jVIount  Vernon  the  qualities  which  had  shone  in  the  highest  station.  Not  having  had  the  advantages  of  a  thorough  education  in 
his  youth,  the  General,  at  the  age  of  three  score,  set  about  making  up  the  deficiency  by  a  course  of  systematic  study,  and  by 
most  uncommon  ])erseverance  and  resolution  acquired  a  st(3re  of  the  most  valuable  of  all  learning,  the  facts  which  modern 
science  teaches.  In  such  a  manner  the  General  passed  the  later  years  of  his  life,  surrounded  by  his  children  and  grandchiliren 
who  were  bound  to  him  by  ties  of  more  than  ordinary  affection  and  regard.  In  the  exercise  of  the  most  cheerful  hospitality 
and  in  the  society  of  his  relatives  and  friends,  the  fitting  termination  of  a  life  so  eventful  and  laborious  was  rounded  to  com- 
pleteness. His  work  was  done,  and  as  his  long  and  well  spent  existence  drew  to  a  close,  it  was  with  no  thought  of  regret  at 
wasted  opportunities  that  the  old  General  looked  back  upon  the  dead  years.  Joseph  Lane  died  in  April,  1881,  having  nearly 
attained  the  great  age  of  eighty  years.  He  left  but  few  of  his  companions  behind  him,  and  of  all  the  officers  who  reached 
eminence  in  the  Mexican  war,  he  was  the  last  to  bid  adieu  to  earth.  General  Lane  was  a  man  whose  unyielding  integrity,  sub- 
jugation of  personal  prejudices  and  determination  to  speak  the  truth  under  all  circun- stances,  were  the  rarest  things  in  political 
or  public  life.  His  perfect  frankness  did  not  take  the  form  which  it  assumes  in  worse  balanced  minds  of  a  desire  to  speak  un 
palatable  truths  in  season  and  out  of  season.  Perhaps  there  never  was  a  politician  who  was  so  little  of  an  egotist,  and  whose 
judgment  was  so  little  swayed  by  personal  feelings.  He  belonged  to  that  class  of  statesmen  who  deal  with  persons  rather  than 
with  principles,  but  he  showed  little  ambition  to  be  merely  a  popular  statesman.  The  student  finds  in  his  life  much  that  is 
commendable — unbounded  patriotism,  integrity  that  has  never  been  impeached,  and  a  wise  judgment  that  always  left  his  con- 
stituents satisfied.  In  all  his  intercourse  with  the  world  there  were  acts  of  the  finest  and  most  delicate  feeling  which  may  well 
command  the  respect  and  admiration  of  all.  Never  acting  for  effect,  but  always  consciously  and  laborously  striving  fur  the 
good  of  others.  This  great  patriot,  whose  career  was  so  manly  and  noble  as  any  that  have  ever  been  enacted,  attained,  with- 
out seeking  it,  a  place  in  the  hearts  of  his  countrymen,  which  the  masters  of  popular  applause  might  envy.  He  wdio  has  now 
gone  from  among  his  kindred,  full  of  years  and  of  honors,  was  a  good  and  a  great  man,  genial  in  his  nature,  wise  in  judg- 
ment, truthful  to  the  last  degree,  and  doing  with  might  whatever  his  hand  found  to  do. 

CAPT.  JOSIAH  B.  LEEDS.— The  subject  of  this  sketch  was  born  in  Leedspoint,  Atlantic  county,  New  Jersey, 
December  I,  1829,  and  is  a  son  of  Clayton  and  Jemima  (Higby)  Leeds.  His  father  being  a  native  of  Leeds,  England,  and  for 
forty-seven  years  a  sailing  master  on  the  briny  deep.  Our  subject  learned  his  vocation  from  his  father,  with  whom  he  went  to 
sea  when  but  eight  years  old.  From  1837  to  1865,  he  followed  a  seafaring  life,  filling  every  position  on  board  a  vessel  from 
cabin  boy  lo  master,  attaining  the  latter  position  when  twenty-two  years  of  age.  In  June,  1851,  Captain  Leeds  sailed  into 
San  Francisco,  as  mate  of  the  schooner  Frances  Helen— \iv,  eldest  brother  being  captain.  On  arriving  in  the  metropolis  of 
CaUfornia,  Josiah  was  made  master  of  the  above  named  schooner,  and  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade.  May  10,  1853,  he 
crossed  the  Umpqua  bar  and  arrived  for  the  first  lime  at  Gardiner,  where  he  now  resides.  At  that  time  but  one  house  was 
standing  where  now  is  a  thriving  town.  In  the  fall  of  1S65  Captain  Leeds  concluded  to  give  up  the  sea  and  settle  on 
terra  firma.  He  selected  the  present  townsite  of  Gardiner  for  his  future  home,  and  in  that  year  purchased  some  300  acres  of 
land.  In  1876  he  laid  out  the  town,  and  in  partnership  with  G.  .S.  Hinsdale  and  Edward  Breen,  began  the  erection  of  the 
well  known  Hinsdale  mills,  now  the  property  of  the  Gardiner  Mill  Company.  In  1882  Mr.  Leeds  severed  his  connection  with 
the  Hinsdale  Mill  Company  and  has  since  been  engaged  in  the  stock  and  butchering  business.  Afler  many  years  of  toil  on 
Innd  and  sea  he  is  anchored  in  a  snug  harbor,  surrounded  by  the  comforts  of  a  happy  home.  Mr.  Leeds  was  united  in  mar- 
riage in  San  Francisco  to  Miss  Eliza  Bartholomew,  a  native  of  Pennsylvania,  by  which  union  they  had  a  family  of  eight 
children,  four  of  whom  are  living,  viz:  Mary  K.,  Clayton  J.,  Bertha  J.  and  Ida  E.  A  view  of  Mr.  Leed's  residence  is  among 
the  illustrations  of  this  work. 

D.  A.  LEVENS,  a  leading  and  wealthy  citizen  of  Douglas  county  and  a  resident  of  Canyonville;  is  one  of  the  men 
whose  success  in  life  and  business  has  been  mainly  achieved  in  the  country  where  he  now  lives  by  the  exercise  of  economy, 
industry  and  business  integrity,  guided  by  intelligent  financial  ability.  He  is  now  a  capitalist,  who  twenty  years  ago  was  a  poor 
man.  What  he  has  came  gradually  through  those  years  as  the  result  of  correct  business  calculations,  and  not  by  chance  of  the 
favorable  turn  of  fortune's  wheel.  Mr.  Levens  was  born  in  Erie  county,  New  York,  October  5,  1828,  and  is  the  son  of  Abiel 
and  Rhoda  (La  Suer)  Levens.  When  Mr.  Levens  was  six  years  of  age  his  father  died.  His  mother  continued  to  manage  the 
farm  in  New  York  until  1845,  when  she  sold  out  and  with  her  family  (our  subject  then  being  seventeen  years  old)  emigrated 
west,  locating  on  a  farm  in  DuPage  county,  Illinois,  where  D.  A.  remained  until  March,  1852.  With  one  companion  and 
horse  teams  he  started  for  California,  across  the  plains.  After  a  few  weeks  out  they  joined  a  large  train  bound  for  Oregon,  and 
by  them  was  induced  to  change  his  course  and  come  to  this  state;  but  on  his  arrival  he  concluded  to  continue  on  to  California. 
For  four  years  he  mined  around  Yreka  with  good  success.  Having  concluded  to  engage  in  farming  and  stock  raising,  and  being 
favorably  impressed  with  the  advantages  of  Douglas  county  on  his  trip  through  on  his  way  to  the  mines,  he  now  returned  to 
locate  within  her  borders.  He  first  purchased  320  acres  of  land  where  now  stands  the  village  of  Galesville,  and  there  formed 
the  nucleus  for  his  piesent  large  business.  In  t868  Mr.  Levens  began  merchandising  in  Canyonville,  in  which  he  continued 
until  1880,  when  he  retired  from  mercantile  business  to  give  his  entire  attention  to  the  management  of  his  large  estate,  now 
consisting  of  4,500  acres  of  land.  He  is  successfully  and  extensively  engaged  in  the  raising  of  horses  and  cattle,  having  large 
herds  of  each  in  Eastern  Oregon.  In  1882  Mr.  Levens  built  his  elegant  hotel  at  Galesville — a  view  of  which  will  be  found  in 
this  history.  At  this  place,  in  connection  with  his  sons  Douglas  and  Henry,  he  is  engaged  in  general  merchandising.  Mr.  Levens 
held  the  office  of  county  commissioner  from   1868   to   1870.      He  was  united   in  marriage  in  1855,  '«  Miss  Fannie  I.  White,  a 


APPENDIX.  533 

native  of  Michigan,  by  whicli  union  ihey  have  a  family  of  four  sons  and  one  daugluer.  Their  names  are:  William,  Douglas, 
Henry,  Jessie  and   Grant. 

CONSTANTINE  MAGRUDER;  born  in  (Jreen  county,  III.,  on  the  iSth,  of  .May,  1835.  Parents  left  m  1838  for 
Andrew  county.  Mo.,  where  they  resided  until  1S44,  in  which  year  they  came  to  Oregon;  settled  at  Oregon  City  and  lived  there 
until  the  fall  of- 1848.  That  fall  Mr.  M.  went  through  this  valley  on  his  way  to  the  gold  mines  on  Feather  river,  Cal.  Next 
spring  returned  to  Oregon  by  water,  and  in  1849  went  back  to  California.  In  the  spring  of  1850  relumed  to  Oregon,  and  in 
the  spring  of  1851  went  through  the  valley  for  the  third  time  on  the  way  to  the  gold  mines  at  Vreka.  Followed  mining  at  Yreka 
and  in  Northern  California  and  Southern  Oregon  until  August  1854,  when  he  finally  settled  in  this  valley.  Married  April  21st, 
1875,  to  Miss  Marjary  E.  Constant,  of  Central  Point,  also  a  native  of  Sangamon  county.  111.,  and  who  crossed  the  plains  in  1852- 
Went  jinto  a  mercantile  business  at  Central  Point  in  October  186S,  where  he  still  resides.  Ills  father  took  up  a  donation  claim 
on  Foot's  creek  in  .\ugust,  1854.  His  mother  died  near  Oregon  City,  .March  9,  1846;  and  his  father,  in  Jackson  county  July. 
7.  1875- 

FREDERICK  MARK.  The  well  known  furniture  manufacturer  of  Marshfield,  Coos  county,  is  a  native  of  Copen- 
hagen, Denmark,  born  June  19,  1830.  At  the  age  of  fourteen  Mr.  Marks  began  to  learn  the  cabinet  maker's  and  piano  manu- 
facturer's trades  both  of  which  he  mastered,  and  worked  at  ditferen^  places  in  Europe  for  thirteen  years.  When  32  years  old  he 
returned  to  Copenhagen,  a  master  workman.  He  concluded  to  start  in  business  for  himself  and  opened  a  furniture  factory  in 
the  above  place  where  he  remained  until  July  1867,  he  then  came  to  .\merica  and  worked  at  his  trade  in  Chicago  for  four  years. 
In  May,  1870,  Mr.  M.  came  to  San  Francisco  and  a  fewweeks  later  to  Portland,  where  he  worked  in  the  Oregon  Iron  Works  as 
pattern  maker  for  two  years.  In  February  1873  ^^  came  to  Marshfield,  Coos  county,  and  started  a  furniture  factory  and  in  (he 
fall  of  that  year  puchased  his  present  property  on  which  stands  his  residence  and  factory  consisting  of  over  half  a  block  and 
bounded  by  Front,  Church  and  Pine  streets.  A  view  of  his  property  will  be  found  in  this  work.  Mr.  Mark  was  married  in 
Copenhagen,  to  Miss  Mary  Eickworth,  a  native  of  Bremen,  they  have  one  daughter,  Jennie. 

WILLIAM  M.  MATHES,  who.se  home— one  and  a  half  milles  northeast  of  Phcenix— is  illustrated  in  this  volume, 
was  born  in  Westmoreland  county,  Penn.,  November  9,  1829.  At  the  age  of  eight  years  his  father  died,  when  his  mother  with 
the  children  removed  to  Huntington  county,  on  the  Juniatta  river,  and  from  thence,  when  William  was  twenty,  came  to  Fulton 
county.  111.  In  1852  he  crossed  the  plains  to  Oregon.  At  John  Day's  river  his  company  was  broken  up  and  managing  to 
secure  a  pony  on  which  to  pack  his  clothes  and  a  single  Ijlanket  he  procured  two  pounds  of  flour  and  started  out  by  himself  to 
complete  the  journey.  Arriving  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Deschutes  river  he  learned  of  a  new  crossing  and  hurriedly  hearing 
the  directions  pushed  forward  hoping  to  cross  before  night.  But  losing  the  way  he  traveled  on,  he  new  not  whither,  until  late  in 
the  night.  Finally  all  appearance  of  a  road  disappearing,  and  groping  his  way  through  darkness  and  brush  he  esjiied  what 
seemed  to  be  an  impenetrable  gloom  of  darkness  just  in  front  of  him.  Deeming  it  wise  to  halt  here  for  the  balance  of  the  night, 
and  hastily  fastening  the  pony  to  a  tree,  he  wrapped  himself  in  his  blanket  and  was  soon  in  the  arms  of  morpheus.  At  early 
dawn  he  awoke  from  his  slumbers  and  was  horrified  to  find  himself  on  the  very  brink  of  a  huge  precipice  whose  yawning  cavern 
below  was  the  impenetrable  gloom  of  the  night  before.  On  the  i8th  day  of  August,  he  left  Barlows  in  a  rain  which  increased 
in  violence  all  day  and  continued  all  the  succeeding  night.  At  nightfall  he  came  across  a  camp  of  emigrants  consisting  of  one 
man  and  his  wife  and  seven  children  and  also  the  grandmother  of  the  children.  Of  the  team,  "  one  ox  "  only  was  alive.  The 
women  and  children  were  all  piled  in  the  wagon.  The  man  was  trying  to  keep  comfortable  by  a  log  fire  he  had  kindletl  for  the 
purpose.  Here  Mr.  Mathes  concluded  to  spend  the  night  anil  with  this  unhappy  emigrant  kept  sleepless  watch  all  that  night  of 
storm  and  rain  without  food  or  shelter — the  pony  sharing  the  fire  with  the  men,  turning  first  one  side  and  then  the  other  to  the 
fire.  At  early  dawn  the  journey  was  resumed,  and  breaking  a  piece  of  bread  from  the  cake  he  had  made  of  his  two  pounds  of 
flour,  he  ale  it  as  he  traveled.  At  ten  o'clock  he  encountered  a  company  of  emigrants  from  Peoria,  III.  Arriving  at  this  place 
the  evening  previous,  eleven  of  their  horses,  poor  from  the  long  trip  of  scanty  feed,  exhausted  from  the  travel,  and  chilled  by  the 
rain  of  the  previous  day,  had  perished  during  the  night.  Still  pressing  on,  at  the  crossing  of  a  rapid  mountain  stream  he  saw 
two  men  leading  and  supporting  a  poor  horse  upon  whose  back  a  woman  and  three  children  were  being  carried  across  the  water, 
and  to  their  destination,  all  other  means  of  travel  having  been  previously  lost  in  the  terrible  journey.  This  day  he  crossed  Little 
Sandy,  whose  swollen  waters  carried  him  and  his  pony  some  distance  below  the  ford  where  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  the 
latter  made  the  land.  The  rain  having  ceased,  the  second  night  was  spent  in  comparative  comfort,  barring  hunger.  Here  the 
balance  of  his  little  store  of  provisions  was  eaten.  The  next  evening  he  arrived  at  Foster'.s  where  there  was  plenty  lo  eat,  and 
his  sufferings  for  the  time  being  were  at  an  end-  -but  not  the  journey.  Starting  from  home  for  the  mines,  he  never  slopped  until 
he  reached  them  at  Jacksonville  in  September  of  that  year,  (1852).  From  Jacksonville  he  went  lo  Jackass  creek  where  he  spent 
the  memorable  winter  of  1852-3,  living  for  two  months  on  very  poor  venison  without  sail,  even.  Returning  in  the  spring  to 
fackson  creek  he  barely  escaped  striking  a  fortune  there,  which  so  disgusted  him  that  he  left  the  mines  forever  and  settled  on 
the  land  where  he  now  resides,  in  May,  1853.  In  1861,  Mr.  .Malhes  returned  lo  the  Atlantic  stales;  was  married  October  3rd 
of  that  year  and  with  his  wife  returned  to  Oregon  and  the  homestead  in  1863.  In  1873,  ''«  returned  lo  Wisconsin  and  brought 
his  mother  to  the  coast.  Mrs.  Mathes'  maiden  name  was  Christina  Riddle.  She  was  born  in  Edinburg,  Scotland,  January 
16,  1842.     The  children  are  Hany  G.,  Bertha  L.,  Mary  S.,  George  W.,  Jessie  A.  and  Donald  Clyde. 

GENERAL  JOHN  MARSHALL  McCALL,  who  represented  Jackson  county  in  ihe  a.sscinbly  in  1S76,  ami 
whose  portrait  appears  in  this  work,  to  use  the  language  of  Professor  Huxley,  is  "a  man  so  trained  in  youth  thai  his  body  is  ihc 
ready  servant  of  his  will,  and  does  with  ease  and  pleasure  all  the  work  that  as  a  mechanism  it  is  capable  of;  whose  inlellecl  is 
a  clear,  logical  engine,  with  all  its  parts  of  equal  strength,  and  in  smooth  working  order,  ready,  like  a  sleani  engine,  lo  be 
turned  to  any  kind  of  work,  and  spin  the  gossamers  as  well  as  forge  the  anchors  of  the  mind."  And  ihi.s,  indeed,  is  the  man 
so  familiarly  called  General  McCall.  He  is,  so  to  speak,  one  of  those  men  whose  brain  is  well  proportioned  to  his  body.  He 
never  stops  to  consider  trifles,  and  never  reaches  after  the  impossible  or  impracticable.  He  gives  proper  attention  to  the 
details  of  his  business,  but  would  not  like  to  be  detailed  lo  do  so.      He  has  a  powerful  mind,  and  what  adds  to  its  strength  is 


5a4  APPENDIX. 

the  fact  that  it  is  his  own.  It  will  not  brook  insult  nor  be  dictated  to.  It  abhors  presumption  and  detests  flattery.  In  short, 
he  is  a  self-made  man.  He  was  born  in  Washington  county,  Pennsylvania,  on  January  15,  1S25.  He  emigrated  to  Louisa 
county,  Iowa,  in  1842,  and  from  there  crossed  the  plains  with  ox  teams  to  Oregon  in  1850,  and  in  the  year  1852  settled  in  Jack- 
son county.  It  was  in  1859  he  located  at  Ashland,  where  he  purchased  an  interest  in  the  Ashland  Flouring  Mill.  The  year 
1861  will  be  ever  memorable  as  the  period  when  a  great  dissension  between  two  vast  sections  of  the  country  threatened  the  dis- 
memberment of  the  nation.  The  consequence  was,  that  in  many  places  throughout  the  coast,  military  regiments  were  organ- 
ized for  the  emergency  that  was  expected  to  arise  at  any  moment.  Among  other  organizations  of  this  character,  the  1st  Ore- 
gon cavalry  was  raised,  and  the  subject  of  this  sketch  was  the  first  to  respond.  He  was  commissioned  second  lieutenant  of 
company"D,"  and  in  1865  was  promoted  to  captain.  It  was  during  this  year  that  he  commanded  an  escort  to  B.  J.  Pengra. 
that  gentleman  having  in  charge  a  surveying  party  in  laying  out  the  wagon  road  from  Eugene  City  to  Stein  Mountain.  General 
McCall  remained  with  the  party  at  Fort  Klamath,  and  in  the  following  spring  was  honorably  discharged  at  ^'ancouver,  and 
immediately  returned  to  his  old  home  at  Ashland.  In  the  spring  of  1867,  at  the  solicitation  of  many  citizens  of  the  place,  he 
founded  the  woolen  mills,  which  to-day  is  one  of  the  prominent  enterprises  of  Ashland.  In  1883  he  was  commissioned  briga- 
dier-general of  the  Oregon  Stale  MiUtia  by  Governor  John  L.  Moody,  which  position  he  has  maintained  to  the  present  writing. 
CJeneral  McCall  has  been  twice  married;  the  first  was  to  Miss  Theresa  R.  Applegate,  on  April  30,  1868.  The  second  was  to 
Mrs.  M.  E.  Brown,  nee  Mary  E.  Anderson,  on  July  4,  1S70.     His  children  are:     Lydia  T.,  Elsie  May  and  John  A. 

DAVID  C.  McCLALLEN  was  born  in  Essex,  Chittenden  county,  Vermont,  October  27,  1829,  and  there  resided 
until  seventeen  years  of  age.  He  then  went  to  Kingsville,  New  York,  and  entered  a  large  manufactory  there  as  apprentice  to 
the  carriage  makers'  trade,  at  which  he  served  a  regular  term  of  four  years.  He  then  concluded  to  go  west,  and  located  in 
Urliana,  Illinois,  and  there  engaged  in  the  carriage  and  wagon  making  business  until  May,  1859,  when  with  his  wife  and  one 
son,  he  started  via.  New  York  and  Panama  to  Oregon.  After  a  voyage  of  some  two  months  they  arrived  within  the  borders 
of  Douglas  county,  first  settling  at  Oakland,  where  he  again  engaged  at  his  former  business  until  1865.  After  engaging  in  the 
hotel  business  in  Canyonville  for  two  years,  he  transferred  his  interest  to  Roseburg,  and  in  1867  purchased  the  "Metropolitan 
Hotel"  of  that  place,  and  was  himself  its  genial  landlord  until  1875,  when  he  retired  from  business  and  leased  ^is  hotel.  .At 
the  present  time  he  is  taking  the  comforts  of  a  prosperous  life,  mainly  engaged  in  looking  after  his  real  estate  interests  in  the 
town.  A  view  of  "The  Metropolitan"  will  be  found  in  this  work.  There  are  but  few  of  the  residents  of  Douglas  county  who 
do  not  know  D.  C.  McClallen,  and  few  men  stand  higher  in  the  community  in  which  he  lives,  as  he  is  justly  known  for  his  uni 
form  kindness  and  generosity.  Mr.  McClallen  was  married  in  Milwaukee,  Wisconsin,  October  I,  1857,  to  Miss  Electa  Bur- 
dick,  a  native  of  New  York  state.  By  this  union  they  had  eight  children,  three  of  whom  are  living,  viz:  Harry,  Ernest  and  Roy. 
JOHN  MURPHY. — A  little  way  off  the  road  leading  from  Ashland  to  Major  Barron  s,  and  nestled  among  the 
mountains,  is  the  home  of  this  old  pioneer.  It  is  a  lovely  spot  and  we  have  selected  it  as  one  of  the  illustrations  in  these 
pages.  John  Murphy  was  born  in  county  Cork,  Ireland,  in  December,  1820.  He  came  to  the  United  States  in  May,  1847, 
and  located  in  Orange  county.  New  York;  thence  to  Iowa  in  1852,  settling  in  Lee  county.  The  following  year  he  crossed  the 
plains  to  Oregon,  with  some  of  the  settlers  who  are  now  his  neighbors,  and  located  in  Jackson  county.  After  working  for  a 
short  time  at  the  Mountain  House  ranch,  he  settled  on  his  present  farm  which  consists  of  twenty-two  hundred  acres.  In  1853 
Mr.  Murphy  joined  Captain  Williams' company  and  engaged  in  the  war  whh  the  Rogue  River  Indians,  remaining  until  its  close- 
in  1854  a  band  of  marauding  Indians  came  near  Mr.  Murphy's  house,  where  they  killed  an  ox  belonging  to  Myron  Sterns.  A 
party  of  settlers  followed  the  Indians,  and  coming  up  to  Murphy's  cabin  and  not  finding  him  there  they  supposed  he  had  been 
killed.  But  when  they  had  proceeded  a  little  way  up  the  creek  there  was  Mr.  Murphy  planting  potatoes  and  he  knew  nothing 
of  the  Indians  having  been  in  the  neighborhood.  The  subject  of  our  sketch  joined  the  settlers,  who  followed  the  trail  of  the 
Indians  to  Grizzly  Rock,  put  them  to  rout  and  broke  up  their  camp  at  that  place.  In  July,  1858,  Mr.  Murphy  went  to  San 
Francisco  and  married  Mary  Goodwin.  Mrs.  Ann  Murphy,  the  mother  of  the  subject  of  this  sketch,  is  now  residing  near 
Ashland  with  her  daughter  and  enjoys  good  health,  her  reasoning  faculties  are  well  preserved  and  she  is  now  ninety-two  years  old. 
W.  C.  MYER. — W.  C.  Myer  and  Elizabeth  Nessly  were  born  in  Jefferson  county,  Ohio,  the  former  April  22,  1818, 
and  the  latter  June  17,  1S20.  They  were  married  on  the  3rd  of  April,  1849,  and  set  out  immediately  for  Iowa,  to  which  place 
Mr.  Myer  in  company  with  his  father's  family,  had  removed  in  1843.  In  1853  the  numerous  Myer  family,  including  the  subject 
of  this  sketch,  took  up  the  line  of  march  to  the  Pacific,  arriving  in  Rogue  river  valley  on  September  3rd,  of  that  year,  and  set- 
tling three  miles  north  of  Ashland.  Engaging  in  the  stock  business  Mr.  Myer  soon  found  himself  surrounded  with  a  large  herd 
of  horses.  Wishing  to  improve  the  stock  of  this  herd  he  went  East  in  1865,  and  brought  out  the  noted  horse  Capt.  Sligart.  In 
1869,  not  altogether  satisfied  with  his  adopted  home,  and  desiring  to  find  a  market  for  his  rapidly  increasing  stock,  he  deter- 
mined to  return  to  the  Western  states,  which  he  reached  in  the  autumn  of  thai  year  and  settled  in  Kansas.  Here  he  disposed 
of  his  horses  and  betook  himself  to  farming.  One  year,  however,  of  the  climate  of  that  countr)-,  with  its  doubtful  crops  satis- 
fied him  that  he  had  made  a  great  mistake  and  turned  his  longing  eyes  and  glad  feet  again  toward  the  Pacific.  During  his 
Kansas  experience  however  he  never  for  a  day  even — forget  his  favorite — the  horse.  Industriously  searching  the  records  and  the 
country,  he  found  his  ideal  in  the  Percheron,  and  hastily  selling  his  Kansas  farm,  bought  White  Prince,  Doll,  Maggie  and  Perche 
and  returned  to  this  country  December,  1870.  So  rapid  was  the  increase  of  this  stock  and  so  great  the  demand  for  it,  that  Mr. 
Myer  found  it  necessary  to  make  new-  importations.  In  1872  he  returned  East  and  brought  out  Napoleon.  With  this  importa- 
tion he  also  brought  out  four  Jersey  cattle  :  one  bull  St.  Louis,  one  cow  Nacky,  and  two  heifers.  To  these  he  has  added  from 
time  to  time  by  importations  from  the  best  milkers  in  California  as  the  nature  of  the  case  demanded.  Mr.  Myer's  fourth  impor- 
tation of  stock  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  was  made  in  1876  when  he  brought  out  Pride  of  Perche,  Gen.  Fleury,  White  Rose 
and  Jennie.  In  187S  the  fifth  importation,  consisting  of  an  Arabian  Percheron,  named  Arabian  Boy,  and  the  filly  Juanita, 
was  made.  This  filly  which  appears  elsewhere  in  the  book,  in  Mr.  Myer's  group  of  fine  stock,  was  raised  by  Colon  Cameron 
of  Brickersfield,  Penn.  Arabian  Boy  was  sired  by  the  pure  blooded  Jenifer  Arabian  imported  from  Arabia  by  Col.  Jenifer  an 
American  Officer  of  Egyptian  Cavalry  fame.     He  is  the  only  Percheron  Arabian  in  the  United  States.     He  may  be  seen  in  the 


APPENDIX.  535 

group.  With  this  importation  Mr.  Myer  brought  out  a  small  lot  of  Cotsvvold  sheep  for  J.  P.  Walker  and  a  small  lot  of  Durham 
cattle  for  E.  F.  Walker.  Also  for  himself  four  Sheltand  Ponies.  Two  of  these  were  brought  from  the  .Shetland  Islands  that 
year  and  two  were  bred  in  the  United  .States,  the  Stallion— Bobby  Burns— by  Alexander,  of  Kentucky.  Taking  advantage  of 
the  invitation  given  by  the  N.  P.  R.  R.  Co.,  in  ihe  autumn  of  1883  to  the  pioneers  ol  the  Pacific,  Mr.  Myer  made  his  sixth 
importation  of  fine  slock,  bringing  the  celebrated  horse  Gambetta  and  a  .Shetland  stallion  both  imported  to  America  the  same 
year  and  both  of  which  also  appear  in  his  group.  In  this  importation  there  were  six  Jerseys,  one  bull  and  five  heil'ers,  all  directly 
descended  from  the  best  butter  producers  in  the  United  States.  Some  of  their  anscestors  have  sold  as  follows:  several  for  $z,ooo 
each  and  one  for  $12,500.  These  Jerseys  also  appear  in  the  group.  Percheron  horses  bred  from  Mr.  Myer's  importations  have 
found  their  way  to  British  Columbia  and  Southern  California,  and  from  the  Pacific  throughout  Oregon  and  \Vashington  and 
Montana  territories,  and  in  all  this  territory  are  giving  the  very  best  of  satisfaction.  As  additional  evidence  of  tlie  enterprising 
character  of  this  gentleman  we  record  the  fact  that  to  him  belongs  the  credit  of  introducing  to  Rogue  river  valley  the  first  gang- 
plow,  tlie  first  improved  Haines  header  and  the  first  screw  pulverizer;  and  to  him  and  his  brother  Frank  the  first  horse  fork  for 
hoisting  and  stacking  hay,  Though  more  th.an  a  decade  past  the  meridian  of  life,  Mr.  Myer  is  more  active  and  energetic  than 
many  other  men  at  that  very  desirable  epoch.  The  children  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Myer  are  Frances,  now  Mrs.  Billings,  and 
William. 

ANDREW  NASBURG  was  born  July  8,  1839,  in  the  parish  of  Forsa,  near  Hudixwall,  Sweden.  At  the  age  of 
ten  years  he  emigrated  with  his  mother  and  one  sister  to  America,  (his  father  had  died  some  years  previous),  where  they  settled 
first  in  Henry  county,  Illinois.  About  the  time  of  our  subject's  departure  from  Sweden,  two  of  his  brothers,  John  and  Olif, 
embarked  from  another  port,  and  during  their  oceanic  trip  a  remarkaljle  coincidence  occurred,  in  which  the  respective  vessels, 
carrying  the  family,  met  in  mid-ocean,  where  the  mother,  sister  and  brothers  were  permitted  to  communicate  with  each  other. 
After  ten  years  residence  in  Illinois,  Andrew,  in  company  with  his  brother  John,  started  for  the  Pacific  coast,  April  6,  1859. 
They  came  via  Panama,  and  arrived  at  their  destination.  Port  Orford,  May  20,  1859.  Here  young  Nasburg  engaged  his  ser- 
vices to  H.  B.  Tichenor  &  Co.,  proprietors  of  a  saw  mill,  and  continued  with  the  company  between  four  and  five  years,  except- 
ing a  portion  of  several  winters,  which  time  he  employed  in  attending  school.  By  the  spring  of  1864,  through  industry  and 
economy,  Mr.  Nasburg  had  saved  enough  to  embark  on  his  own  account  in  the  mercantile  line  at  Port  Orford,  being  subse- 
quently appointed  postmaster  at  that  place.  Three  years  experience  satisfied  our  young  merchant,  when  he  purchased  a  farm 
near  Marshfield,  which  he  cultivated  until  December  3,  1869.  The  next  move  was  to  open  a  general  merchandise  store  in 
Marshfield.  In  the  spring  of  1873  he  formed  a  copartnership  with  Thomas  Hirst  in  the  same  line.  These  gentlemen  in  1875 
erected  a  commodious  store  building,  (a  view  of  which  appears  in  this  history),  40x60  feet,  where  they  are  now  doing  business. 
Mr.  Nasburg  married.  April  19,  1S71,  Miss  Emma  Hirst,  who  is  a  native  of  Hanging  Rock,  Ohio.  By  this  union  they  have 
had  five  children,  viz:     Louisa  C,  Willie,  Chester  (now  deceased),  Harry  and  Claude. 

ISRAEL  BOYDE  NICHOLS.— There  are  few  men  in  Oregon  to  whom  more  credit  is  due  for  its  development  and 
settlement  than  the  subject  of  this  sketch  who  came  to  Oregon  in  its  very  infancy.  Mr.  Nichols  was  born  in  Muskingdum 
county,  Ohio,  near  the  town  of  McConnisville,  September  22,  1824.  His  father  being  a  salt  manufacturer,  Mr.  Nichols'  boy- 
hood was  spent  in  his  father's  works,  where  he  remained  until  nearly  twenty-one  years  of  age.  In  the  fall  of  1842  he  located 
in  the  southern  part  of  Iowa  and  engaged  in  farming  one  year,  and  then  joined  a  train  coming  to  Oregon  with  ox  teams.  On 
arriving  on  the  Humboldt  river  the  train  separated — three  of  the  wagons  taking  the  California  trail.  With  the  latter  c^impany 
was  Mr.  Nichols.  With  but  few  mishaps  they  arrived  at  Johnson's  ranch  in  October,  1847,  and  made  his  first  home  in  the 
"olden  state  at  the  Santa  Clara  mission.  In  the  spring  of  1848  he  went  to  Santa  Cruz  county,  where  he  remained  until  the 
gold  discovery.  Mr.  Nichols  was  among  the  first  to  enter  the  mining  district  at  Sutter's  Fort,  and  for  the  following  two  years 
engaged  in  mining  and  keeping  store  at  the  diflferent  camps,  until  the  spring  of  1851,  when  he  came  ivith  a  [pack  train  lo  Ore- 
gon. He  at  that  time  passed  through  the  beautiful  Cow  creek  valley,  which  he  has  since  made  his  home.  On  his  first  arrival 
in  the  state  Mr.  N.  engaged  in  the  stock  business,  and  m  1852  concluded  to  locate,  and  then  took  up  a  donation  claim  where 
he  now  resides,  and  still  continues  in  the  stock  business.  He  has  since  added  to  his  estate  by  purchase  until  now  he  has  1,500 
acres  of  land  in  the  Cow  creek  valley,  on  w^hich  he  has  recently  built  himself  a  fine  residence,  a  view  of  which  appears  in  this 
work.  During  the  Indian  wars  of  1853-6,  Mr.  Nichols  took  an  active  part,  serving  under  Gen.  Phil.  Kearney  and  Gen. 
Lane.  A  detailed  account  of  the  many  narrow  escapes,  trials  and  privations  that  Mr.  Nichols  passed  through  in  those  years 
would  fill  a  good  sized  volume.  Suffice  it  to  say,  there  were  few  men  in  the  Rogue  river  wars  possessing  more  true  courage 
and  daring,  and  who  would  sacrifice  more  for  his  fellow  man  than  Mr.  Nichols.  After  a  residence  of  almost  forty  years  on  the 
Pacific  coast— thirty-three  of  which  were  spent  where  he  now  resides— he  has  collected  sufficient  of  this  world's  goods  lo  be  able 
to  take  the  comforts  allowed  an  honest  and  well  spent  life,  enjoying  the  confidence  and  esteem  of  all  who  know  him.  Mr. 
Nichols  was  united  in  marriage  in  1852  to  Miss  Isabelle  Riddle,  a  n^uive  of  Ohio.  By  this  union  they  had  a  family  of  twelve 
children— eleven  of  whom  are  living.  Their  names  are:  Artenicia  J.,  now  Mrs.  Owen  Willis;  Rhoda  E.,  now  Mrs.  David 
Thompson;  Lewis  W.,  Henry  H.,  .\bner  E.,  Ulysses  S.,  Israel  B.,  Jr.,  Ben.,  Clara  (now  deceased),  George  E.,  Maximilian 
M .  and  Maria. 

HON.  JAMES  W.  F.  OWENS,  whose  portrait  appears  in  this  history,  is  a  true  pioneer  of  the  Pacific  coast.  Born 
in  Platte  county,  Missouri,  February  22,  1843,  and  is  the  son  of  Thomas  and  -Sarah  (Damron)  Owens.  When  but  an  infant 
his  parents  started  in  June,  1S43,  «'''i  "hat  is  known  as  the  second  Oregon  immigration  to  cross  the  then  almost  unknown 
and  trackless  plains,  and  with  ox  teams  they  pursued  their  weary  journey,  finally  arriving  in  The  Dalles  in  November  of  that 
year.  They  there  secured  canoes  and  came  down  the  Columbia  river  to  Astoria,  and  there  his  father  concluded  to  locale,  se- 
lecting a  farm  on  Clatsop  plains  where  he  resided  until  the  fall  of  1853,  when  they  came  to  Douglas  county  ami  located  on  ihe 
place  now  owned  by  Rev.  J.  R.  N.  Bell,  a  short  distance  from  Roseburg.  Here  our  subject  attended  school,  and  at  the  age 
.jf  fifteen  years  was  placed  in  a  high  school  at  Dallas,  Polk  county.  On  his  return  from  school,  although  yet  a  boy,  he  spent 
two  years  in  the  mines  of  Southern  Oregon,  and  again  returned  to  Rosebui^  and  engaged  in  farming  and  stock   raising,  which 


536  APPENDIX. 

the  foilowei  until  1S77.  In  the  latter  year  the  "Grange  Business  Association  of  Koseburg"  was  organized  and  Mr.  Owen 
was  elected  its  manager — a  position  he  still  holds — and  to  whose  able  management  is  due  the  present  success  of  that  large  or- 
ganization. In  June,  1S74,  Douglas  county  honored  Mr.  Owens  with  a  seat  in  the  state  senate,  an  office  he  filled  with  ability 
and  to  the  utmost  satisfaction  of  his  constituents.  Mr.  Owens  belongs  to  that  class  which  thinks  that  those  who  will,  may  win. 
As  a  business  man  he  has  the  confidence  of  all  who  know  him;  as  a  citizen,  the  respect  which  his  character  and  actions  in  life 
have  entitled  him;  and  what  he  possesses  of  this  world's  goods  is  the  result  of  judicious  labor  prompted  by  his  early  surround- 
ings, and  not  the  reward  of  chance  [or  birth.  Mr.  Owens  was  married  in  Roseburg,  August  7,  1864,  to  Miss  Nannie  L. 
•Stevens,  a  native  of  Ohio.  By  this  union  they  have  one  son,  Lafayette,  and  two  daughters,  Esther  and  Effie.  In  conclusion 
we  would  say  of  Mr.  Owens  that  the  fortune  which  in  the  autumn  of  life  surrounds  him  has  been  gathered  by  worthy  hand, 
and  properly  rewards  the  life  labors  of  a  pioneer  of  his  country.  It  is  not  infrequent  that  those  who  struggle  less,  and  are  fa- 
vored according  to  their  efforts,  are  envious  of  those  who  succeed;  but  we  can  only  say,  success  is  generally  the  result,  as  in 
,  this  case,  of  intelligent  and  honorable  endeavor  to  succeed.  In  his  wanderings,  seeking  a  favored  spot  for  a  life  home,  he  has 
woven  into  his  history  some  strange  adventures  and  hair  breadth  escajies — when  want  of  food,  and  the  Indian  scalping  knife 
has  lurked  close  upon  his  trail— but  which  to  detail  would  require  more  space  than  is  admissible  iii  this  work. 

P.  P.  PALMER. — This  well  known  gentleman  and  highly  respected  citizen,  is  a  resident  of  Scottsburg,  Douglas 
county.  Mr.  Palmer  was  born  in  Sussex  county,  Delaware,  October  5,  1826,  and  resided  on  his  father's  farm  until  twenty 
years  of  age.  He  then  went  to  Madison  county  and  there  found  employment  as  a  salesman  in  a  store  for  two  and  one  half 
yeirs.  He  then  started  west,  and  on  April  i,  1850,  joined  a  train  at  St.  Joseph,  Missouri,  to  come  to  Oregon,  arriving  in 
Portland  on  the  loth  day  of  October  of  that  year.  Mr.  Palmer  then  proceeded  to  Yreka,  California,  where  he  followed  min- 
ing, but  for  a  short  time;  returning  to  Yamhill  county  and  in  the  fall  of  1851  came  to  Douglas  county  and  first  located  in  Gar- 
den valley.  In  1857  he  moved  to  the  place  now  owned  by  Levi  Kent,  and  there  resided  for  five  years.  In  1863  Mr.  Palmer 
was  appointed  inspector  of  customs  at  Gardiner,  and  conseejuently  transferred  his  residence  to  that  place,  where  he  remained  in 
that  capacity  (for  a  time  post  master  of  Gardiner)  until  1871,  when  he  purchased  and  moved  to  his  present  property  at  Scotts- 
burg and  engaged  in  the  mercantile  business,  which  he  followed  successfully  for  ten  or  twelve  years.  He  then  closed  out  and  in 
1884  opened  his  present  hotel  at  Scottsburg,  the  "Palmer  House,"  a  view  of  which  appears  in  this  work.  If  present  indica- 
tions can  be  relied  on,  the  Palmer  House  is  sure  to  succeed,  as  with  Mr.  Palmer  and  his  hospitable  family  the  weary  stranger 
always  finds  the  comforts  of  a  w^ell  conducted  hotel.  Mr.  Palmer  was  united  in  marriage  at  Wilbur,  Douglas  county,  March 
6,  1856,  to  Miss  Mary  Slocum,  a  native  of  Kentucky,  by  which  union  they  have  had  eleven  children,  all  of  whom  are  living  except 
one,  William  E.,  who  died  December  25,  1883;  AUie,  now  Mrs.  Captain  J.  Hill;  .\lbert,  Elmer,  Edith,  Gussie,  Annie, 
Mary,  Elsie,  Minnie  and  Pursey. 

CAPT.  JUDAH  PARKER.— The  subject  of  this  sketch  a  well  known  and  highly  respected  citizen  of  Coos  county, 
and  resident  of  I'arkersburg,  on  the  Coquille  river,  is  a  gentleman  of  whom  a  very  respectable  volume  might  be  written  could 
the  facts  of  his  changing  and  energetic  life  be  fully  given.  Mr.  Parker  was  born  in  Essex  county.  New  Jersey,  July  17,  1829, 
and  there  resided  until  his  fifteenth  year.  His  parents  then  removed  to  New  York,  locating  in  Seneca  county;  there  our  sub- 
ject assisted  his  father — the  latter  being  a  contracter  and  builder — for  a  period  of  six  years.  On  reaching  his  majority  Mr.  Parker 
concluded  to  see  some  of  the  world  and  consequently  shipped  on  board  a  whaling  vessel  bound  for  the  Arctic  ocean.  After  a 
cruise  of  eighteen  months  they  arrived  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  our  subject  shipped  on  board  the  bark  Bayard  and 
returned  to  America,  following  coasting  until  the  fall  of  1853,  when  he  shipped  on  board  the  ship  Parthenon  and  came  around 
Cape  Horn,  arriving  in  San  Francisco  in  February,  1854.  He  not  unlike  all  the  early  Californians  immediately  pioceeded  to 
the  Gold  fields,  and  for  four  years  prosecuted  his  search  for  the  precious  metal,  in  Nevada  county,  meeting  with  moderate  suc- 
cess. We  next  find  Mr.  Parker  in  the  employ  of  the  Pacific  mail  steamship  company  in  the  capacity  of  ship  carpenter,  and 
remained  in  their  employ  plying  in  that  capacity  between  San  Francisco  and  Panama  until  1862.  In  the  (all  of  that  year  Mr- 
Parker  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Wm.  Ireland  concluded  to  try  to  recover  the  immense  treasure  of  the  lost  Golden  Gate,  which 
foundered  ofl^  the  coast  of  Me.xico.  Accordingly  they  fitted  out  the  schooner  Wm.  Ireland,  and  sixty  days  later  found  them  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  lost  vessel — they  being  the  fifth  expedition  that  undertook  to  secure  the  Golden  treasure.  Through  the 
admirable  management  and  use  of  hydraulic  pressure,  a  method  discovered  by  Capt.  Parker,  they  were  enabled  to  secure  $640,- 
000  of  the  two  millions  lost,  and  returned  to  San  Francisco.  On  two  subsequent  occasions  Capt.  Parker  went  in  pursuit  of  the 
treasure  ;  the  second  time  being  the  winter  of  1863-4,  on  which  occasion  he  succeeded  in  raising  some  $6o,ckX).  The  third 
attempt  was  made  in  187D,  when  he  found  the  wreck  to  be  buried  in  twenty  feet  of  sand.  He  then  returned  to  San  Francisco 
and  fitted  out  the  steamer  Mary  Taylor,  and  again  started  in  pursuit  of  the  lost  treasure — this  time  to  South  America — with  the 
intention  of  raising  an  immense  amount  of  money  that  had  gone  down  with  the  wrecked  Leo  Cadia,  a  vessel  that  had  foundered 
in  the  year  1802.  In  this  undertaking,  we  may  also  mention,  was  Jlr.  G.W.  Cooley,  now  a  resident  of  Ellensburg,  who  had  the 
misfortune  of  losing  one  of  his  eyes  while  performing  the  services  of  a  diver.  Capt  Parker  secured  about  five  thousand  Spanish 
dollars  but  on  account  of  the  long  period  in  which  they  had  lain  in  the  salt  water,  were  utterly  worthless.  He  then  returned  to 
Calao  with  the  intention  of  selling  his  vessel,  but  failing  in  this  he  returned  to  San  Francisco,  and  in  1875  came  to  Coos  county, 
first  locating  at  Eastport,  and  about  one  year  later  moved  to  the  present  site  of  Parkersburg,  and  began  the  erection  of  a  saw 
mill  which  he  has  since,  and  at  the  present  time  operates — a  view  and  history  of  which  will  be  found  in  this  work.  Mr. 
Parker  was  united  in  marriage  in  San  Francisco,  April  6,  1863,  to  Miss  Ottile  Frederick,  a  native  of  Germany;  by  this  union 
they  had  four  children,  three  of  whom  are  living,  viz:  Ottile  E.,  Georgianna  and  Warren. 

JOSHUA  PATTERSON  was  born  in  Eaton  county,  Michigan,  December  2,  1857.  His  parents  took  him  to  Iowa 
when  quite  young,  and  from  Belfountain  they  crossed  the  plains  to  Oregon  in  1862,  being  five  months  and  five  days  making  the 
journey  to  Ashland.  The  family  first  settled  on  the  Holton  ranch,  where  they  resided  about  one  year,  then  took  up  a  residence 
on  a  farm  five  miles  north  of  Ashland,  where  the  father  lived  up  to  the  time  of  his  death.  The  subject  of  this  sketch  went  to 
California  in  the  fall  of  1S72,  and  engaged  in  farming  and  running   a  threshing  machine  for  about  nine  years.     He  there  made 


APPENDIX.  537 

the  acquaintance  and  married  Ella  Jane  Fewel  on  the  iSth  of  September,  iS8i.  They  came  to  Oregon  that  fall  and  settled  on 
the  old  homestead  where  he  has  since  lived.     His  children  are  Myrtle,  born  July  4,  1882,  and  Henry  Clay,  born  Nov.  12,  1S83. 

C.  T.  PAYNE.— Among  the  early  settlers  of  Oregon  is  the  subject  of  this  sketch,  and  a  view  of  his  residence  is  one 
of  the  illustrations  in  this  history.  He  was  born  in  Keystville,  Chariton  countv,  Missouri,  on  the  ISth  of  December,  1831. 
Here  he  grew  to  manhood  and  married  Elizabeth  McCollum,  April  15,  1852;  She  was  born  in  Chariton  county,  Missouri, 
October  21,  1834.  They  emigrated  to  Oregon  with  ox  teams  in  1852,  via.  overland  route,  and  arrived  in  Linn  county,  where  Ihey 
settled  August  loth  of  that  year.  Here  he  maintained  a  permanent  residence  until  coming  to  Jackson  county  in  June  1668, 
and  the  following  Februaiy  settled  on  his  present  ranch.  John,  James  M.,  David,  Sarah  E.,  Martha  J.,  Minnie  May,  Stacy, 
Champ  T.,  Taylor,  Mandy  Lee  and  Richard  F.  are  the  names  of  their  children. 

CYRUS  H.  PICKENS,- -(deceased.)— Mr.  Pickens  was  born  in  Green  county,  North  Carolina,  November  8,  iSot. 
and  is  a  descendant  of  that  branch  of  the  family  which  is  so  well  known  in  that  state  to-day.  He  emigrated  to  California  in 
l?49,  crossing  the  isthmus  of  Panama.  In  1865  he  came  to  Jackson  county,  and  settled  on  the  ranch  now  owned  by  his  son, 
Elijah  P.  Pickens,  and  died  there,  aged  seventy-seven  years.  He  married  Helen  Moore,  who  was  born  in  Landon  county,  Vir- 
ginia, July  6  1808.  Elijah  P.  Pickens,  son  of  the  above,  was  born  in  Pleasants  county,  Virginia,  August  3,  1841.  In  1858 
Mr.  Pickens  came  to  California,  settling  in  Siskiyou  county  where  he  lived  until  1878,  then  moved  to  Jackson  county  and  set- 
tled on  the  farm  of  his  father  in  Table  Rock  precinct— a  view  of  which  is  found  in  this  work.  He  married  Elizabeth  A. 
Everill,  a  native  of  England. 

FRANCIS  M.  PLYMALE,  bom  in  Giles  county,  Va.,  March  17,  1833.  He  went  to  Kno.x  county,  III.,  about 
the  year  1835.  and  there  was  educated  and  raised  on  a  farm  until  the  j-ear  1852,  when  the  family  crossed  the  plains  with  ox 
teams,  and  settled  in  Jacksonville,  where  his  fathe.r  died.  In  March,  1853,  Mr.  Plymale  settled  on  his  present  ranch  six  miles 
northeast  from  Jacksonville,  where  he  has  since  lived.  He  married  Jane  E.  Nickols,  December  28,  1865.  Anna,  Norah, 
Cassie,  Francis  G.,  John  S.  and  Medie  are  the  names  of  his  children. 

WILLIAM  J.  PLYMALE,  whose  portrait  appears  in  this  work,  was  born  in  Knox  county,  Illinois,  February  9, 
1S37.  In  the  year  1852  his  parents  emigrated  to  Oregon,  arriving  in  November  at  Jacksonville,  Jackson  county.  Here  Mr. 
Plymale  received  his  primary  education,  and  finished  a  course  at  the  Willamette  University.  He  first  engaged  in  farming  in 
this  county,  and  followed  this  occupation  about  twenty-three  years.  He  has  resided  in  Jacksonville  about  ten  years.  He  was 
twice  elected  county  surveyor  of  Jackson  county,  and  to  the  legislature  in  1874.  He  married  Josephine  L.  Martin,  daughter  of 
William  J.  Martin,  formerly  register  of  the  land  office  at  Roseburg.     Has  a  family  of  nine  children  living. 

JOHN  W.  PRICE. — This  well  known  and  substantial  farmer  of  Oak  creek  valley,  Douglas  county,  was  born  in 
Richland  county,  Ohio,  near  the  town  of  Shelby,  November  18,  l'S32.  When  nine  years  old  his  parents  moved  to  Bellville, 
same  county.  Mr.  Price  resided  on  a  farm  with  his  parents  until  March,  1852,  when  he  conluded  to  seek  his  fortune  in  the 
golden  state.  With  three  companions  he  left  his  home  and  went  to  Monroe,  Michigan,  where  they  purchased  horses  and  a  light 
wagon,  and  with  this  outfit  they  undertook  to  cross  the  plains  to  California.  On  arriving  at  Green  river,  Wyoming  Territory, 
they  were  induced  to  change  their  route  and  consequently  came  to  the  "Webfoot"  country,  arriving  in  Oregon  early  in  Septem- 
ber, 1852.  Mr.  Price  immediately  went  to  Vreka,  Cahfornia,  where  he  found  employment  with  a  pack  train- -remaining  in 
this  situation  some  four  years.  He  then  located  on  the  ranch  now  owned  by  James  Short,  seven  miles  east  of  Roseburg,  and 
engaged  in  farming  and  stock  raising  for  the  period  of  seventeen  years,  meeting  with  abundant  success.  In  187S  he  purchase<1 
his  present  homestead,  then  consisting  of  700  acres,  to  which  he  has  since  added  some  700  more;  and  now,  after  many  years  of 
patient  toil  has  a  finely  stocked  and  well  improved  farm,  consisting  of  1,400  acres  located  on  Oak  creek,  twelve  miles  north  of 
Roseburg.  In  the  summer  of  1883  Mr.  Price  built  one  of  the  finest  farm  residences  to  be  found  in  Southern  Oregon — .1  view 
of  which  will  be  found  in  the  body  of  this  history.  Mr.  Price  is,  indeed,  a  true  gentleman,  with  whom  it  is  a  pleaiure  to  meet, 
and  it  would  be  a  fortunate  thing  for  Douglas  county  if  it  had  more  such  men  with  the  same  energy,  perseverance  and  integ- 
rity, as  Mr.  John  W.  Price.  He  was  united  in  marriage  on  the  place  where  he  now  resides  November  I,  1857,  to  Miss  Deliah 
Oden,  a  native  of  Missouri.  By  this  union  they  have  nine  children,  viz:  James  N.,  Charles  A.,  John  E.,  Ida  L.,  Asher  L., 
Sarah  E.,  William  F.,  Samuel  F.  and  Dora. 

HON.  PAINE  PAGE  PRIM  was  born  in  Wilson  county,  Tennessee,  in  1822.  He  followed  the  plow  on  his  father's 
farm  until  well  along  in  years,  graduating  in  the  law  department  of  the  Cumberland  University  at  Lebanon,  Tennessee.  He 
came  to  Oregon  in  1851,  the  means  of  transportation  being  the  primitive  wagon  of  the  day.  He  first  settled  in  Linn  county, 
but  moved  to  Jackson  county  in  1852,  where  he  was  engaged  as  a  miner,  and  afterwards  commenced  the  practice  of  law  at 
Jacksonville.  His  knowledge  of  the  profession  and  keen  perception  of  technicalities  soon  attr.icted  the  attention  of  litigants, 
and  he  found  himself  possessed  of  a  lucrative  practice.  The  year  1857  marked  two  important  epochs  in  his  life,  the  first  being 
his  marriage  with  Teresa  M.  Stearns,  which  event  was  closely  followed  by  his  election  as  a  member  of  the  slate  constitutional 
convention.  He  continued  the  practice  of  law  until  the  organization  of  the  state  government  in  1S59,  when  he  was  appoinle<l 
supreme  judge  and  ex-officio  circuit  judge  of  the  first  judicial  district.  This  position  was  held  until  the  act  in  1878  wasp.assed 
making  a  separate  supreme  court,  when  he  was  appointed  one  of  the  associate  judges.  He  was  nominated  for  the  san)c  position 
in  iSSo,  but,  being  defeated,  again  resumed  the  practice  of  his  profession,  and  is  now  acknowledge<l  as  one  of  the  leading 
attorneys  of  the  first  judicial  district.  He  was  elected  senator  from  Jackson  county  in  1S82,  and  was  the  Democratic  caucus 
nominee  for  United  States  senator,  receiving  thirty-three  votes  for  that  honorable  position.  He  is  a  gentleman  who  has  been 
prominenily  connected  with  the  history  of  our  state  for  many  years  and  is  held  in  high  esteem  by  relatives  and  friends. 

JOHN  G.  RAST,  the  well  known  proprietor  of  the  Roseburg  brewery,  is  a  native  of  Luzerne,  Switzerland,  born 
May  10,  1S38.  In  the  spring  of  1854  with  his  parents  and  three  sisters  he  sailed  from  Havre  (or  America,  arriving  in  New- 
Orleans  in  May  of  that  year.  They  proceeded  direct  to  St.  Louis,  where  John  was  placctl  as  an  apprentice  in  a  furniture  man- 
ufactory, and  he  remained  one  year  and  then  moved  to  Independence,  Missouri,  where  he  continued  his  trade.  Two  years 
later  he,  with  his  parents,  moved  to  Davis  county,  Kansas,  where  they  engaged  in  farming  until  May,  1859,  when  he  joined  a 


APFEXDIX. 


OBBiS&eet  to  Dotglis  oaosal^,  >Ir.  Rss  aode  hfe  hone  fat  &e  Ibsi  tkree  t«£is 
«i&3b:.CIradisHeaas!<Gr,  eaiataeeb.  b  tfte  &JI  oT  lS&(  >&;.  R^  cune  ta  Ras^M^  and  indeed  aa  iMenst  ib  tbe 
8e^&iB^&K«aT«^3iE.  G.  Mdl.  ■>  «ftach  ^  laBtBed  udl  iS^t.  «iaa  m  th&  j«ar  Aer  si&nd  tdte  Ioes  of  dieir 
bRWEij^&e.  >b.K3SEaas  pa(Aa3d)b.MdrsiHE!SBsai>lfel«)f>a^sBdiididtdKl)nnrarf-^^ 
aes.  ATO»ijf  feiiw»gifcgaig|aMigtfet«e«<aqf  propati-Ea»iMiglite  jjhslinniinfs  of  dfe  IfeBary.  He.  Kst  «ss  ■oiried 
Bft)K£iase»]iisGlim  J<»8siBlS^  Tk^ks^iesfa^of  fcwcU&ea.  Ri^ebb,  SuhkIJ,  Auoe  3L  aadGei«rade^ 
THUtASG.  REAMS  «aeEnna>IJttdi&f^KeKBd^,I>eoaiybctf  IS  ^«%a  le  «s  aboat  ax  jkiis  old 

«a£  ai]|iftH«d  W  tie  Hb&sbTs  fi^  Confm^-  d>^  Ae  wiiAai;,  aad  aa  ds 

b^  aaeill  iSSf.  vies.  h£  twdt  op  lE  E^iiac 


&ef  taaK  to 


;of  RaaiB&iSMa^^iJimirtMnilfaagyaas.    Thea.  ia  Twjwarrioa  wiA 

ffirTTT-nnnii  iif  nfti    iTi  ii  Buri^iiill    ifftiii  jni  iiiiiiiiiii  fij  rum  iiiiia  Thiijni      Retared  Ae  awJaaHiM 
I  ftf^  K.  P.  Eadkolt  hg  191  n«e£.     He  is  s  pm^neaC 
espastsgi^B^Berct  JlzaoKBUnasw-     Hs  portizk  ^{lens  a  d^  woifc.    >lained  Ijaoiida  VfiHiaas,  and  ks  a  fatulf 


^SMEKAI.  JOBH  £.  ROSS.— Ik  alijox  of  tiiE  st^k  os  ban  b  Madfeoa  coatr.  CMo^  Fdnmr  is  181S. 
^  &!&a  novei  to  FaoisB  oart^  bfian.  ska  he  arasfia  leas  oU;  AesKe  to  Cook  cnaaq;  IKwis^  m  iSlj.  He  mai- 
iii4,raiSm.^^B^szarAIei3a&rKa{na8au,afaacis^slȣed  afert^^hadbeeaBond  In 

l^  Ga!a:dK<[KcametoOB^tB.zadarase3iCnBof  a  coHfoairaiUdk  cn^  the  p^^.  CoL  Ross,  Jol  Eb^  and  an 
igaayatGprfRtmte,agA8ie^gMmofc«»i.ganlfciM-,hABadof  aem.  On  the  raad  bejoid 
led  «haea  eiana  had  bea  aoacfced  19^  Ae  Infims.  TheroreitEnkdiee^iaalsaileri 
Btax^Eiv^vfio  praraitobeths  Waoapami    Tfan- had  beat  robbed  of  a 


po^.  «i£h  H.  A.  &  les,  cxfieaiB 
Amm^  ThetfaB^oaehe 
1  of  the  tnapnr.  fai>lA«  chE  pes 
«ZE.     HeieGa(BiadtoOkescnCkr3fe^AeCgnBeraiBiSsS;aad«3seBSQedB 

Bless  RsahadftaB  of  tAi£  dBoaaeEj' of  gaid  h  OSKhjib 

«a<fe-^waffitodE»MsoaFi3^hgriiei^arfthaee^siSrf»iwriiiriiii,iii*inAe&Bofi»aL»haihei 
«giE6Mfctoae^BsiBrjianram^»the^p«»gogi^n^aadw!asoae  of  AeSist  djjmtnai.  of  gnM  on  Stntt's  rirar.     In 
i^teE3BKtoTis&2.^aBcetoJase^&sa£ciedH,aBdlmsOBeaf  the&s^samKasof  gold  od  Canpon  oedk,  in  Josqifeme 

cBBttT.     rfi   II I  III  ■!  il  I  III  nil  TTiilaaii  lili    1  iFIl  j  iiii  tin    iiiiiir ffftjliiiilji II il  11  tiiiial  if  1  iiirr\  .  ifii  11  ih  iinrii  ih  Pii^ii 

rtio^dej^B^Biraj,  iSsa^a^opaedzbuchsrs  ^apatJadksasnagL    In  Ae  faB  of  1833.  Geneial  Rass  nbed  a  00*- 

pi^  a£  ^Hkj  mea  ad  «^  to  Rscae  waiaij who  ««e  aptrairfcipd  at  BktaOf  Pone  oa  Tale  IiLe.     Thef  joned  Ben. 

^K£  a  ]^uu&t  of  naiBagianls  btAnus  dsar  and  Goose  ^^^^^  icCHaaag  wiA 
OffiEfeetaaatieybii^driMMfaaaemof  tie  MMiy  iiir  „  «ho  fad  beatiJBedhylndfaas.     Roes  and  he  < 

<^  Ae  Oican  le^xtme.     In  Jannaiy,  iSjs  k 


iKO&g.  Oalfe^fcof  jMieof  tb8tje»he»as  iii^iiiiia  1  coiaael  of  the  9A  itginiat 
brGoir.JateW.DtEis.  In  Ae&Bof  183s  a'^xE^-oBe' Ae  Ib^™^  "ot  obIfb  tin  oooi^bae  m  Ae  noidieiB  pan  of 
ehesiresvES^iesdi^DsseaieczEwa^  Cofaad  Ros  boag  n  oniiii  aiinrf  of  Ae  gA  i^ael.  toot  die  fidd,  fa^t  3er- 
oal  ieisEe  "n»fTr.~;L,  aad  sas  le  lai^  sagaseded  m  iiiiiiiiihiibiI  bf  CoL  J.  K.  T^mnTJi-i  At  a  spedal  rilpftinn  hdd  Deceadier 
IS  iSgj,  he  acK  eaajai  to  i^besebe  Jafaoa  oamii^  m  the  HmtieimiA  nwimril,  to  SB  araeaacy  caBid  jyiemoralof  Dr.  Cle«e- 
ls»l,sni£aE:t<hegpBaEddla£BBiajBmec  iS66^toAe^^!ane3SSBBfalf.     la  1SS6-7  ahem  the  CaKonia  and  OiEgan  Rziboad 


APPEXDIX.  539 

coimty  in  Lbe  suie  ££Bai£,  and  was  faoeored  hf  hang  a^ipomted  ili-i'Minim  of  ^^  js^Sasir  conunsiee.  H£  «s$  tBoamtoi  cac 
of  -be  icTes-igiiiig  committee  to  report  j:5>ca>  the  acts  cfl  the  preoe&i^  adnmiElxsicic.  Gee  Roe"  psmait,  and  a  Tie*-  of  Ins 
resideiice  -^-31  -t  firaid  in  tMs  wort 

TOBIAS    STILLEY    RIDDLE  was  bora  in   EHnok,  Angua  31,    1S49.  and   «ien  bm  i  was 

broa^iit  by  his  pzrt^.r-   across  iht  plains   10  Ortgon.       Arriviijg  in  Dongias   canntr  earlr  in  1852,   M  r  .-ja* 

located  on  lbe  prDpeny  tier  now  omn.  near  the  town  thai  beajs  ias  iannh-  -ng-m..    '"kiddle."     Our  st":   ;  ~  ibe 

pa:emal  roof  cnti;  :Ji£  age  of  siceen  yeari^  He  then  started  oot  to  do  for  'HiTva'H  At  that  ear>5-  z^t  th  :t:^i.-  ;:-,.;  -sadk 
basines?  and  laid  the  fanidatjon  for  his  preseni  sarxess.  At  the  age  of  e^hteoi  Mr.  RiddJe  was  nniied  in  marriage  to  Miss  S. 
Smith,  a  daogiueT  of  George  C.  Smith,  an  old  readeot  of  Engene,  and  later  a  readem  erf  Mrnlt  Crt-tt.  T'  .iic'.a.-  conatr.  [Mr. 
Smith  and  his  son  John  msl  iheir  death  whiie  engaged  in  the  stock  boan^s  in  Happr  TaQev,  -  ■  the  hands  ol 

the  Bannock  Indians.]    From  sma-]  t.>egir.nTngs  Mr-  Riddle  has  bnih  np  a  large  =it>H  proatabl;  -  -  -^dd  of  oier- 

alion^  no*  erteoiSng  aH  over  Sonthem  Orsgo:^     He  also  oims  a  ralnable  farm  in  Cov  creet  r  _  c  of  440  acres, 

and  a  beantifal  readence  in  Canyioniine  There  he  now  reades,  a  tiew  of  vUdi  wiD  be  fcnmd  i::  tl.?  hif.-  .r-. .  Mr.  Riddle  has  a 
family  of  ai  children,  irhose  names  are:  Carrie  I_,  Walter  C,  Fred,  Eva,  Benjajidn  and  f^esler. 

ANDREW  SAWYERS  was  bom  near  St.  Johns,  Xew  Ersmswick,  April  lo,  1&22,  of  Scotti-Irish  descent.  Wfaes 
be  was  fom  years  of  age  his  parents  mcrred  to  Philadelphia.  Bang  ls6  mcaherless  at  an  early  age  be  was  placed  by  ins  iatber 
on  a  iarm  where  be  remained  tmiil  his  sereaisenifa  year,  then  retBmed  10  Phil^elphia  and  sored  an  apprenticeship  at  the 
carpenlex  rrade,  which  be  followed  in  the  Qaaia  City  mail  1S43,  when  he  went  to  Xew  York.  A  Jew  months  later  he 
moved  to  Xew  Orleans,  there  working  at  his  trade  imtil  Octoiber,  1&49.  He  ihea.  with  his  -wHt  and  two  r-'h^TA-j-n  took  pas- 
sage on  the  -Wiri-  Waitermjai  via.  Cape  Horn,  for  Sao  Francisca  arriring  there  in  May,  1850.  Mr.  Sawyas  immediately 
fonmd  empJorment  at  his  trade,  which  be  foUywed  til!  rbe fall  of  185a  when  he  •^■"^  to  Or^an,  ists.  Iccaling  at  Sccstsbm^.  A 
fern  weeks  later  he  settled  ob  his  p*"eseHi  pioii>errv,  lune  mil^  east  of  Scotlsbiag.  now  coosistii^  of  a  ^^^^  ^axm  of  640  acres. 
A  liew  of  his  &rm  r^dence  wiD  be  focnwd  in  this  history.  Mr.  Sawyeas  was  wTttr^rt  13  niarri^e  in  Xew  Orleans,  December 
25.  1S44,  to  Miss  Fannie  McDowell,  a  natrre  of  Fliiladelpihia,  Tbey  hare  ><»fl  ten  dnldren,  Sve  of  wbom  are  £vri^  vie 
Catherine,  now  Mis.  Josiah  Stevens;  Annie,  now  Xlrs.  Joseph  Reed:  Margaret,  now  Jfe.  Peter  Xeboo;  Famoe  and  Wm.  S. 

JAMES  F.  SHEFFIELD,  is  a  native  of  Hnrom  comniy,  Ohis;  was  bom  Ai^nst  5,  1S25,  and  there  resided  mail 
the  spring  of  1S50.  On  bearing  of  the  wonderfiil  wealth  to  be  foamd  on  the  PaciBc  coast  he  started  in  the  s^wii^  of  '^i'  year 
for  Califcmia,  and  there  followed  minii^  iinti]  1852,  when  he  r-^-T^  10  OregOfn.  ^•"^  in  1S53  to  Douglas  coiimtT,  and  pm^ciiased 
his  present  valnable  farni,  consjstii^  of  470  acres  two  and  a  half  ■mTl.-s  soath  of  Roseinng.  an  the  ba-nt-t.  erf  lie  Umpqna,  00 
which  he  has  erected  a  5ne  farm  readesce;  a  view  of  which  appears  in  this  work. 

THOMAS  SHRUM- — This  wd]  known  diizen  ca  Donglas  coomy,  and  earJy  poomesr  of  ORgom,  is  a  naiire  of  linooiia 
connty,  Missom,  and  was  bom  December  &,  1827:  residing  cm  las  fether's  isna  nntil  tlie  sfiiig  of  1S46.  In  .^pril  of  dia: 
Tear,  accompanied  bv  t^is  father.  XDOtber.  three  sasters  aT>d  ^«'e  brotl>*!^  ^^tarre^  ^nt*^  -"t  'ea^r^  **stTcsf  tV?  T^lains"  to  ^^■^  •Jsr 
west.     After  six  months  of  travefij^  and  many  hi' '  'rcenvei^e 

east  of  Salem  where  they  located  an  a  farm.     Ti  -  .>  "aeo  he  with 

one  brother  hastened  to  the  now  Eldorado  and  f :  _  ■  fi    He  thea 

rem-Tied  to  his  hc.tne  near  Salem  and  redded  the: .    lz:..    i>54_      .-ii~.r.;  t;-_..e.        .;..-•  :'  be  sdecscd 

Donglas  county  for  his  niture  home  and  at  that  lime  pnrdiased  160  aaes  one  mile  north  o:  In  1864  1* 

pnrchased  his  present  hotnestead  coinaaiEg  cf  600  acres  on  the  banks  of  the  Cjnpqna  rrver.  :  ^e  many  asd 

valaable  improremenls — a  view  of  which  wiH  be  ioansd  in  '>'ts  wciri.     .\3d  now,  a/: .  r  '>lr.  SbrSB  is 

prepared  to  take  the  cosifotts  that  only  attend  those  who  lead  an  hooest  and  well  spitr.  -  ;-d  in  MsioB 

connty.  October  2<x.  iS57,  to  Miss  Casandra  Kams,  a  native  ci  Indiana.     They  hav-  1  .   .  »ic  De£a  J. 

bom  .\agast  2Q.  1S5S,  Stephen  J.  bomjanaary  24,  iS5q,  .\vTiJia  W.  born -\agiis:  l^.  i^^l.  ^.^rir.  z^  ."r:.  Slay  21,  l96^ 
Mary  R.  bom  May  17.  1S65,  EopimmaE.  bora  .\pril  30.  1867,  and  George  W.  bom  Xovemher  15,  1S69. 

THOMAS  J.  SINGLETON.— This  old  and  well  known  lesiiieat  of  Rosebarg.  and  Dooglas  aianiT.  was  bora  in  Lin- 
coln county,  Keotncky, -\pril  30,  I S35.     Wheabe  was  bot  foor  yc--    -•'  -7   "■        ■--      "         -    --     -- ■      ■•  H  in 

Sheridan  coonty,  and  a  few  years  later  located  in  Linn  coenty,  »  ■  ha> 

be  with  his  parents  and  brothers  started  across  the  plains  to  Or  ^  i» 

Marion  ooeniy.  near  Salem,  fee  —  -  --      ^-     -     ^'^--     '  "■■i         .__=..       .  ■ ' 

creek.     Mr.  Sii^letoo  Bred  w  .  21,  1855^  whtr 

E  Tayior,  ot  Marioa  coonty,  l  t.iace  he  now  o» 

slead,  «!«  Jsner  whjdj  be  DOW  i.>,    .  ,^,— ,.     -,  -,---;  .  .  ,^  _    _^,_ 

wife  he  roored  his  home  into  RoseDoig  wtwre  he  cow  resiits  w-:.-  J  csuJdrea,  tic  Mair  » .,  oow 

tbe  wife  of  S.  L  Thomlosi.  Thomas  £.  .\da  M..  William  L..  Er. 

WILLIAM  B.  SINGLETON. -This  well  and  hvc^ 
coianty,  Kentadry,  bom  .\agosi  16.  1S37.     In  the  sprii^  cf  1S52.  !■:      - 
arrivii^  at  Portland  in  the  fall  erf  that  year.     In  1S54.  they  cam; 

years  later  Mr.  S.  was  aaited  in  marriage  to  ifiss  Martha  T.  Co:,-;.  . 

creek  Taller;  a  Tiew  of  which  appears  m  this  History.  Mr.  Sii^laoa  tus  made  ausy  laprcrvmects  oe  a  ait-rA....  ^^^^^ai 
place,  tmdl  now  be  poss^ses  ooe  of  tbe  aosl  desaabk  ftras  to  be  kmad  is  Do«$Us  ccsoty.  He  is  ei^^ed  i£  {Tcoeral  &iv- 
ii^  and  stock  niai^. 

CAPTAIN  THOMAS  SMITH  was  bcwn  in  CampbeB  ooDty  K  «i 

when  Tbocoas  was  bsn  sinteea  years  of  ^c.      .\t   the  ^c  of  twemr-diri--  ■  -ae 

ocumiy.  where  he  reraained  workii^  at  tbe  carpenter  trade  sntil   1S3Q.    whe-  . .-  re- 


540  APPENDIX. 

mained  in  Texas  ten  years,  and  the  lessons  there  learned  in  frontier  life  were  of  great  advantage  to  him  in  his  subsequent  pio- 
neer life  on  the  Pacific.  In  1849  he  came  to  California,  crossing  the  plains  by  way  of  Fredericksburg  and  El  Paso,  Texas, 
New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  and  the  great  desert  through  Lower  California  and  arrived  in  the  mines  in  October  of  that  year.  At 
Fredericksburg  he  was  elected  captain  of  a  company  of  seventy-live  men  who  were  the  pioneers  over  this  route  for  50c  miles  to 
El  Passo.  After  his  arrival  in  the  mines  he  took  sick  and  was  not  able  to  work  any  that  year.  The  ne.xt  summer  he  went  to 
Feather  river  where  he  was  again  taken  sick,  but  managed  to  make  his  way  to  Reading,  where  in  the  fall  he  was  broken  up  by 
robberies  by  the  Pitt  River  Indians.  In  the  spring  of  1851  he  came  to  the  Yreka  mines,  where,  hearing  of  the  Oregon  mines 
down  in  what  is  now  Josephine  county,  crossed  the  Siskiyous  on  the  7th  of  June  and  engaged  in  mining  on  Josephine  creek 
until  October.  When  returnmg,  he  prospected  for  and  found  gold  in  considerable  quantities  at  Blackwell  and  Willow  Springs. 
Believing  that  good  mines  would  soon  be  found  at  these  places,  he  at  once  determined  if  possible  to  raise  a  crop  of  vegetables 
in  the  valley  to  sell  to  the  miners.  He  at  once  located  on  the  place  until  recently  known  as  Capt.  Smith's  ranch,  and  went  to 
Yreka  to  find  some  other  parties  who  were  wiUing  to  join  him  in  such  an  enterprise.  David  Earl,  Fred  Albuding  and  Patrick 
Dunn  agreed  to  take  the  chances  and  at  once  began  to  prepare  for  the  enterprise.  Mr.  Smith  returned  at  once  to  his  claim 
where  he  remained  alone  eleven  days  before  the  arrival  of  the  other  m^n.  It  was  on  the  nth  day  of  November  of  that  year 
(1851)  that  the  Captain  pitched  his  tent  in  this  beautiful  valley,  and  the  same  spot  was  his  home  for  twenty  years,  when  tiring 
of  farming  he  sold  the  old  home  and  remos'ed  to  Ashland.  During  the  early  years  of  his  life  in  this  home  he  passed  through 
many  exciting  experiences.  For  several  years  Indian  Chief  Tiusu  and  band  were  his  near  neighbors  and  made  themselves  more 
sociable  than  agreeable  to  the  Captain.  In  the  wars  of  1853-5,  he  was  frequently  called  upon  by  neighbors  to  assist  in  chastis- 
ing the  Indians  for  robbery,  and  in  the  adoption  of  measures  to  prevent  this  band  from  engaging  with  the  balance  of  the  Rogue 
Rivers  in  active  hostilities  against  the  white  people.  Mr.  Smith  was  called  by  his  constituents  to  represent  them  in  the  territorial 
legislature  of  1S55-6.  In  186S  he  was  elected  to  the  state  legislature,  and  again  in  1880  re-elected  to  the  same  position.  He 
was  married  to  Margaret  J.  Harrison,  daughter  of  William  Harrison,  of  Crawford  county,  Missouri,  in  August,  1857.  Harrison 
county,  Kentucky,  was  named  in  honor  of  her  grand-father,  who  was  a  relative  of  President  William  H.  Harrison.  Mrs.  Smith 
died  December  22,  1874.     Ella  C.  is  the  only  child. 

H.  C.  STANTON,  or  as  he  is  more  familiarly  known,  "Hardy"  Stanton,  was  born  in  the  town  of  Westerlon,  Albany 
county.  New  York,  September  27,  1826.  In  the  fall  of  1851,  he  came  to  Moultrie  county.  111.,  and  during  the  summer  of  1853 
crossed  the  plains  and  settled  in  that  beautiful  spot  known  as  Garden  valley  of  this  county.  From  1862  to  1865  Mr.  Stanton  mined 
on  Salmon  river  and  in  the  Boise  basin.  In  the  spring  of  i865,  he  settled  in  Roseburg,  and  was  commissioned  post-master  for 
the  Roseburg  post-office  by  Alex.  W.  Randall  Post-master  General,  December  6,  1867,  upon  the  duties  of  which  position  he 
entered  on  the  9th,  of  January,  1868.  This  position  he  has  held  continuously  ever  since  his  appointment  by  the  Post-master 
General,  until  May  22,  1883,  when  the  office  was  designated  a  third  class  office,  and  he  was  re-appointed  post-master  by  Presi- 
dent Arthur.  In  September,  1872,  he  commenced  the  mercantile  business,  and  on  July  23,  1873,  he  was  married  to  Jennie  M. 
Sinclair,  a  daughter  of  James  Sinclair,  formerly  a  factor  or  governor  for  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  Mr.  Stanton's  children 
were  born  as  follows:  Lucy  M.,  May  24,  1874;  Edwin  Cole,  February  7,  1876,  and  Lillian  A.,  August  22,  1883.  A  view  of  Mr. 
-Stanton's  residence  will  be  found  among  the  illustrations  of  this  history. 

HON.  DANIEL  W.  STEARNS,  a  prominent  capitalist  of  Oakland,  Douglas  county,  Oregon,  and  a  native  of  the 
town  of  Chesterfield,  Cheshire,  county.  New  Hampshire;  born  December  31,  1821.  Resided  with  his  parents  on  a  farm  until 
twenty-two  years  of  age,  receiving  his  education  in  part  at  the  common  schools  and  afterward  taking  an  accademic  cource.  At 
the  above  age  Mr.  .Stearns  went  to  Palmer,  Mass.,  where  he  found  employment  in  a  mercantile  house  for  one  year.  He  then 
engaged  in  business  for  himself  in  Ware,  Mass.,  until  1847,  when  he  closed  out  and  went  to  Boston.  That  ever  memorable 
year,  1849  found  Mr.  Stearns  among  the  Argonauts  coming  by  the  way  of  the  Isthmas  to  California,  to  seek  fortunes  in  the  rich 
'l'gg>"gs  of  which  all  had  heard  so  much.  He  arrived  in  San  Francisco,  July  4th,  and  proceeded  at  once  to  the  mines,  where 
he  engaged  in  difi'erent  pursuits  until  1852,  when  he  w^as  called  East  on  the  serious  illness  of  his  wife.  Having  once  enjoyed 
the  delightful  climate  of  the  Pacific  coast,  on  the  recovery  of  his  wife  he  again  set  sail  in  1853,  for  California — this  t'me  via.  the 
Nicuragua  route.  Shortly  after  his  arrival  in  San  Francisco  he  came  to  Scottsburg,  Douglas  county,  and  engaged  in  business 
in  the  mercantile  firm  of  Brown,  Drum  &  Co.,  in  which  he  remained  but  a  short  time,  when  he  drew  out  his  interest  and  opened 
a  general  merchandise  store  in  Jacksonville,  Jackson  county,  and  continued  until  1857,  when  his  store  was  entirely  consumed 
by  fire.  Mr.  Stearns  returned  to  Umpqua  county,  locating  on  a  farm  near  Elkton,  and  there  remained  for  two  years.  In  1867 
Mr.  Stearns  was  elected  to  the  office  of  county  treasurer  of  Umpqua  county,  for  two  years;  at  the  end  of  which  time  he  removed 
to  Roseburg,  and  in  1874  was  elected  by  a  large  majority  as  representative  to  the  state  legislature  for  Douglas  county.  In  1875 
Mr.  Stearns  removed  to  Oakland— where  he  now  resides— and  in  1880  was  elected  state  senator.  Mr.  Stearns  was  married  in 
Massachusetts,  January  3,  1847,  to  Miss  Almira  Fay,  by  whom  he  has  five  sons,  viz:  George  J.  at  present  a  leading  merchant  Of 
Oakland,  Oregon;  Loyal  B.  a  prominent  attorney  of  Portland  and  the  present  county  judge  of  Multnomah  county;  A.  F.,  at 
present  merchandising  in  Oakland,  Oregon;  John  W.  merchant  in  Walla  Walla,  W.  T.,  and  Ralph  S.  in  the  employ  of  the  O. 
&  C.  R.  R.  Co.  A  view  of  Mr.  Stearns'  nice  residence  in  Oakland,  together,  w^ith  that  of  his  son  George  J.  is  placed  among 
the  illustrations  of  this  volume. 

FENDAL  SUTHERLIN. — The  largest  land  owner  and  recognized  wealthiest  resident  of  Douglas  county,  is  a  native 
of  Indiana,  where  his  younger  days  were  s]>enl  until  1848,  when  he  came  with  his  parents  to  Oregon  and  began  the  battle  of  life 
for  himself.  By  economy,  industry  and  hard  work  he  has  accomplished  that  which  other  men  with  less  energy  would  fail  to  do. 
Mr.  Sutherlin  is  married  and  has  a  family  of  five  children.  He  now  resides  in  Oakland,  Oregon,  and  has  retired  from  the 
active  pursuits  of  life  with  the  exception  of  the  managing  of  his  large  financial  business.  A  view  of  Mr.  Sutherlin's  early  home 
is  placed  in  this  work. 

STEPHEN  CLARK  TA'VLOR,  born  in  Franklin  county,  Massachusetts,  September  17,  1828.  When  two  years 
oldhis  parents  emigrated  to  Ashtabula  county,  Ohio.      Here  they  lived  seven  years,  then  moved  to  Winnebago  county,  Illinois, 


APPENDIX.  541 

settling  in  Pecalonica.~  Here  he  married  Mary  A.  Prescott,  October  24,  1850.  They  came  to  Oregon  in  1853,  crossing  the 
plains  with  ox  teams,  and  after  a  journey  of  six  months  they  arrived  in  Jackson  county,  locating  on  their  present  farm  four 
miles  northeast  of  Phoenix,  November  8,  1853.  Here  Mr.  Taylor  erected  a  cabin,  the  only  tools  he  had  to  do  the  work  with 
being  a  jack-knife  and  ax.  This  cabin  was  16x20  feet,  made  of  pine  logs  four  high,  covered  with  "shakes."  In  this  rude 
dwelling  they  lived  during  the  winter,  the  only  furniture  being  two  tin  plates,  a  few  knives  and  fork.s,  and  wooden  benches. 
The  method  for  cooking  bread  adopted  Ijy  Mrs.  Taylor  was  novel  as  well  as  original.  A  fire  was  made  on  the  earth,  and  when 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  coals  had  accumulated  to  make  the  ground  hot,  they  were  removed,  and  two  stones  were  set  on  either 
s'.de,  edgewise,  and  on  these  another  flat  stone  was  placed  (having  been  previously  healed),  and  in  this  oven  the  iron  pan  hold- 
ing the  dough  was  placed  and  baked  to  a  turn.  They  lived  on  this  ranch  about  four  years  (it  being  a  donation  claim),  and  then 
took  up  their  abode  on  an  adjoining  piece  of  property,  owned  by  Mr.  Taylor's  father,  and  in  after  years  the  subject  of  our 
sketch  became  its  owner.     Mr.  Taylor's  children  are:     Henry  H.,  Willis  W.,  Ellen  Elizabeth  and  Corey  Clark. 

S.  I.  THORNTON  is  a  son  of  Jeptha  Thornton,  an  old  and  highly  respected  citizen  of  Oak  creek,  Douglas  county, 
and  is  a  native  of  DeKalb  county,  Missouri,  born  March  2,  1855.  When  ten  years  old  his  parents  crossed  the  plains  to  Oregon 
and  settled  in  Douglas  county,  in  1866.  At  the  age  of  twenty  years  S.  I.  started  out  to  do  for  himself — with  what  succe.ssmay 
be  seen  in  the  valuable  farm  he  now  possesses,  consisting  of  300  acres  located  in  one  of  the  most  fertile  valleys  (Deer  creek),  to 
be  found  in  Douglas  county,  on  which  he  has  built  himself  a  fine  residence — a  view  of  which  appears  in  this  work.  At  the 
present  time  Mr.  Thornton  is  engaged  in  a  profitable  livery  business  in  Roseburg,  where  he  now  resides;  and  although  yet  a 
young  man,  he  has  through  his  energy  and  business  ability  secured  a  comfortable  compettfney.  and  is  a  fit  subject  for  other 
young  men  to  imitate.  Mr.  Thornton  was  united  in  marriage  January  26,  1878,  to  Miss  Jennie,  eldest  daughter  of  Mr.  T.  [. 
Singleton,  by  which  union  they  have  one  son  and  one  daughter — Arthur  Lee  and  Lena  V. 

RICHARD  THOMAS,  is  a  native  of  .Schuylkill  county,  Pennsylvania,  born  November  25,  1837,  and  there  resided 
until  1853,  when  he  came  to  this  coast  via  Nicauragua,  and  first  settled  in  California,  where  he  followed  mining  until  1856.  He 
then  came  to  Oregon  in  the  fall,  direct  to  Douglas  county,  and  engaged  in  farming,  in  which  he  was  successful,  acquiring  some 
1,700  acres  of  land.  In  1872  he  moved  his  family  to  Oakland,  and  there  opened  a  hotel,  which  he  has  successfully  managed 
ever  since.  Is  at  present  the  proprietor  and  owner  of  the  Depot  Hotel,  a  first  class  house,  a  view  of  which  may  be  seen  in  this 
history.  Mr.  Thomas  was  married  in  May,  1864,  to  Mrs.  Sarah  E.  Cozad,  a  daughter  of  Dr.  L.  Hall.  They  have  two  chil- 
dren, Fannie  and  Mary. 

GEN.  JAMES  CLARKE  TOLMAN.— One  of  the  leading  citizens  of  Jackson  county  and  foremost  among  the 
representative  men  of  Oregon,  is  (Jen.  James  Clarke  Tolman,  Surveyor  General  of  this  state.  A  man  of  great  decision  of 
character  and  executive  ability,  he  has  always  occupied  the  position  of  leader  of  his  fellowmen,  and  after  fifty  years  of  active 
participation  in  the  aflfairs  of  his  country,  retains  the  confidence  and  respect  of  not  only  his  political  associates,  but  of  adherents 
to  the  opposing  party.  From  his  youth  an  enthusiastic  whig,  he  has  been,  during  the  lifetime  of  the  party,  a  consistent  and 
unswerving,  republican.  He  comes  of  a  family  of  patriots  and  pioneers,  and  inherited  the  genuine  pioneer  instincts,  those  of 
the  higher  type — not  the  feeling  that  makes  one  shun  the  intellectual  advantages  and  refinements  of  older  communities  because 
of  a  lack  of  sympathy  with,  and  appreciation  of,  them,  but  that  nobler  sentiment  which  impels  its  possessor  to  carve  out  his  own 
fortune  from  the  crude  material  and  to  develop  and  improve  the  wilderness  in  accordance  with  the  creator's  jjlan  of  upward 
progression.  His  father,  Seth  Tolman,  was  of  Holland  extraction  and  Mary,  his  mother,  English,  a  daughter  of  Captain 
Clarke,  a  veteran  of  the  Revolutionary  war,  serving  in  the  ranks  of  the  Continentals  from  the  lioston  tea  party  till  the  close  of 
the  long  struggle  for  independence.  When  the  war  was  over  his  parents  settled  in  Washington  county,  Pennsylvania,  but  by 
discreet  conduct  managed  to  escape  ruin  from  the  devastations  of  the  Tom  Tinker  whisky  insurrectionists.  They  next  removed 
to  Marrietta,  Ohio,  where  they  were  frequently  compelled  to  "fort  up"  in  block  houses  with  their  neighbors  to  defend  them- 
selves from  hostile  Indians.  Judge  Tolman  was  born  in  Washington  county,  Ohio,  March  12,  1813,  and  eight  years  later 
moved  with  his  parents  to  Champaign  county,  in  the  same  state.  Those  were  the  pioneer  days  of  Ohio,  when  log  houses  were 
the  only  habitations,  and  these  few  and  far  between,  and  when  the  little  log  school  house  hektsway.  In  such  a  house  he  lived, 
and  in  such  he  received  his  education — and  it  might  be  said  that  from  such  have  sprung  many  of  the  greatest  men  of  our  nation, 
not  the  least  of  which  are  Lincoln,  Chase,  Grant  and  Garfield.  At  the  age  of  seventeen  he  apprenticed  himself  to  Jesse  C. 
Phillips  (a  cousin  of  Tom  Corwin),  and  spent  three  years  in  learning  the  business  of  manufacturing  leather.  He  then  entered 
the  university  at  Athens,  Ohio,  pursuing  English  branches  with  characteristic  assiduity  for  a  year,  during  which  time  he  also 
imbibed  much  knowledge  of  a  useful  and  practical  nature  by  the  exertion  of  his  great  powers  of  observations.  For  several  years 
he  engaged  in  various  pursuits,  lending  to  each  his  full  energy  and  enthusiasm,  and  being  an  earnest  supporter  of  General  Har- 
rison and  the  unsuccessfiil  whig  ticket  in  1836.  The  family,  consisting  of  father,  mother,  two  brothers  and  himself  (a  sister  and 
brother  having  died),  removed  to  Iowa  in  1839,  and  settled  in  Van  Buren  county,  began  again  a  genuine  pioneer  life.  Land 
claimants  were  bought  out  and  200  acres  of  land  were  bid  in  at  public  sale  in  Burlington,  and  the  Gen.  engaged  in  farming, 
encountering  all  the  trials  and  hardships  of  a  frontier  life.  Iowa  at  that  time  was  strongly  democratic,  yet  he  adhered  firmly  to 
his  whig  principles.  He  was  placed  on  the  ticket  of  that  party  for  the  territorial  legislature,  and  though  party  lines  were  closely 
drawn  and  a  warm  canvass  followed,  during  which  he  was  the  only  whig  speaker  on  the  ticket,  he  obtained  400  democratic 
votes  and  only  missed  60  voles  of  being  elected.  In  the  fall  of  1845  he  removed  to  Otlumwa  and  engaged  in  the  manufacture 
of  leather.  Here  he  was  again  placed  on  the  whig  ticket,  contrary  to  his  desires,  but  accepted  the  nomination  at  the  solicita- 
tion of  friends  who  urged  that  his  opponent  was  hard  to  defeat.  The  whole  county  ticket  was  elected,  though  the  .lemocralic 
territorial  ticket  received  125  majority.  In  1844  his  thoughts  turneil  towards  the  Pacific,  and  when  news  of  the  gold  discovery 
reached  Iowa  in  the  fall  of  1848,  he  began  preparing  to  seek  the  El  Dorado  in  the  spring.  In  due  time  he  starlc.1,  and  as  sole 
pilot  of  an  ox  team  he  arrived  in  the  mines  on  the  seventh  of  October,  1849.  Declining  several  advantageous  business  offers,  he 
went  to  work  with  the  i>ick  and  shovel  .as  a  genuine  miner.  His  usual  energy  and  attention  to  his  business  won  him  success, 
and  he  returned  to  Iowa  in  the  fall  of  1S51  well   rewarded  for  his  California  venture.     Ill  health  during  the  winter  causeil  him 


542  APPENDIX. 

to  wind  up  his  business  and  prepare  to  again  seek  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  On  the  twenty-seventh  of  April,  1852,  he  was 
married  to  Elizabeth  E.  Coe,  of  Oskaloosa,  Iowa,  and  within  forty-eight  hours  was  again  enroute  across  the  plains,  the  pilot  and 
general  adviser  often  wagons  of  emigrants.  The  train  reached  Vreka  in  82  days  without  the  loss  of  an  animal,  notwithstanding 
they  had  to  fight  their  way  through  the  Modoc  country.  Gen.  Tolman  crossed  the  Siskiyous  into  Rogue  river  valley  with  a 
portion  of  the  train,  arriving  the  last  of  August,  and  bringing  the  first  families  to  the  valley  from  across  the  plains  direct.  He 
purchased  the  rights  of  two  squatters  and  began  preparing  for  raising  stock.  Early  in  1853,  perceiving  the  impending  tiouble 
with  the  Indians,  he  look  his  stock  to  California  and  sold  them.  He  then  went  to  Coos  Bay  to  look  after  some  investments  he 
had  made  there  for  two  young  men,  and  returned  to  the  valley  in  time  to  sit  on  the  coroner's  jury  which  investigated  the  death 
of  the  first  white  victim  in  the  Indian  war  of  1853.  When  the  war  was  over  he  sold  out  his  place,  and  with  his  wife  and  one 
child  took  a  mule-back  ride  to  Empire  City,  on  Coos  Bay.  He  soon  withdrew  from  the  company  without  realizing  anything 
on  his  investment,  and  took  up  a  half  section  of  land  upon  which  is  located  the  town  of  Marshfield,  where  he  erected  a  rude 
house  for  his  family.  He  spent  the  spring  of  1S54  in  exploring  that  region,  being  the  first  white  man  to  open  a  trail  across  the 
isihaius  between  Coos  Bay  and  Coquille  river.  In  August,  1854,  he  returned  to  Rogue  river  valley,  leaving  his  claim  in  charge 
of  another  man,  who  sold  it  out  and  vamoosed.  The  Judge  upon  his  return  to  the  valley  purchased  for  $8,500  the  ranch  he 
now  owns,  including  the  stock  thereon  and  again  engaged  in  stock  raising.  When  the  Indian  war  broke  out  in  1S55,  he  hastily 
gatliered  his  stock  and  drove  them  to  California,  and  sold  them  for  what  they  would  bring.  It  was  two  years  before  he  could 
resume  his  business.  He  then  purchased  blooded  stock — English  turf  horses,  Morgans  and  Lionhearts — and  in  a  few  years 
realized  handsomely  on  his  investment.  The  severe  winters  of  186 1-2  almost  annihilated  his  band  of  cattle.  When  the  state 
government  was  organized  in  1858,  Mr.  Tolman  was  elected  Judge  of  Jackson  county  by  a  large  majority  although  three-fourths 
of  the  voters  were  democrats.  He  was  re-elected  in  1862,  defeating  his  opponent  two  to  one.  In  this  important  position  he 
was  enabled  during  the.  critical  times  of  the  civil  war  to  do  more  than  any  one  else  to  prevent  open  hostilities;  also  to  reduce 
taxation  fifty  per  cent.,  and  rescue  the  county  from  threatened  bankruptcy.  He  was  nominated  for  governor  on  the  republican 
ticket  in  1874,  but  the  formation  of  a  third  party  gave  the  administration  into  the  hands  of  the  democracy,  and  he  accepted  his 
defeat  with  becoming  resignation.  In  187S  Judge  Tolman  was  appointed  Surveyor  General  of  Oregon  by  President  Hayes,  and 
re-appointed  by  President  Arthur  in  18S2.  His  administration  of  the  affairs  of  that  office  meets  with  the  hearty  approval  of  the 
administration  and  of  the  people  generally.  He  is  firin  and  prompt  in  the  discharge  of  his  official  duties,  and  never  has  his 
integrity  or  motives  been  impeached.  During  half  a  century  of  active  business  and  official  life  he  has  won  and  retains  the 
respect  of  all  with  whom  he  has  come  in  contact,  irrespective  of  their  political  opinions;  and  though  he  has  never  sought  election 
or  appointment  to  office,  they  have  both  come  to  him  unsolicited.  In  these  days  of  machine  politics  and  corruption  in  office,  it 
should  be  Oregon's  boast  that  she  possesses  an  official  who  occupies  a  higher  plane.  Gen.  Tolnian's  portrait  appears  in  this 
work. 

JOHN  P.  TUPPER,  was  born  in  Colchester  county,Nova  Scotia,  August  22,  1829.  At  the  age  of  si.xteen  he  entered 
a  ship  yard  to  learn  the  trade  of  ship  carpenter.  After  serving  an  apprenticeship  of  four  years,  he  worked  at  his  trade  in  his 
native  country  until  1869,  when  he  came  to  California,  arriving  in  San  Francisco  June  12.  He  there  found  employinent  at  his 
trade  for  a  few  months,  and  then  came  to  Coos  Bay  to  take  charge  of  the  building  of  a  schooner  at  Marshfield,  where  he 
resided  until  1877.  In  the  spring  of  that  year  Mr.  Tupper  concluded  to  try  his  fortune  in  the  Black  Hills,  but  after  a  short 
stay  in  Colorado  returned  to  Coos  county,  fully  convinced  that  "all  is  not  gold  that  glitters."  In  the  spring  of  1881  Mr.  Tup- 
per was  employed  to  take  charge  of  the  government  improvements  at  the  mouth  of  the  Coquille.  While  on  this  work  he  was 
so  impressed  with  the  beauties  of  the  place  where  he  now  resides  that  he  purchased  160  acres  at  the  mouth  ot  the  Coquille 
river,  and  in  1882  built  his  present  hotel,  the  "Ocean  House,"  a  view  of  which  will  be  found  in  this  work — and  in  18S3  laid 
off  the  town  of  Seaside  City,  which  promises  to  be  a  leading  summer  resort  in  Southern  Oregon.  Mr.  Tupper  was  married  in 
Falmouth,  Nova  Scotia,  October  3,  1861,  to  Miss  Martha  A.  Lynch,  a  native  of  Nova  Scotia.  They  have  one  son,  Ben- 
jamin F. 

HON.  JACOB  WAGNER,  of  Ashland,  who  is  owner  and  proprietor  of  the  Ashland  Flouring  Mills,  was  born  at 
Dayton,  Ohio,  September  26,  1820.  With  his  parents,  John  and  Hester  Wagner,  he  removed  to  Elkhart  county,  Indiana. 
From  thence  he  came  to  Louisa  county,  Iowa;  and  from  thence  to  Oregon  in  1850,  and  settled  on  Wagner  creek,  Jackson 
county,  in  the  spring  of  1852.  (n  1862  he  moved  to  Ashland,  where  he  resides  at  this  writing.  He  was  state  senator  from 
June,  1862,  to  June,  1866,  and  was  at  the  extra  session  of  the  legislature  called  together  to  adopt  the  13th  amendment  to  the 
constitution  of  the  United  States — was  county  commissioner  in  1874-5,  ^"<^  ^^  ti^^n  ^  prominent  and  honored  citizen  from  the 
first.  In  i860  he  returned  to  Iowa  and  was  united  in  marriage  to  Miss  Ella  Hendrix.  Their  children  are:  Annettie,  John 
M.,  Fred  D.,  Mabel  E.,  Ella  T.,  Jessie  N.  and  Jacob  Ernest. 

JOHN  P.  WALKER,  was  born  in  Christian  county,  Kentucky,  and  is  now  in  his  sixty-second  year.  In  1S27  he, 
with  his  parents,  moved  to  Illinois,  and  in  1839  to  Iowa.  There  he  engaged  in  farming  until  1849,  when  the  gold  fields  of 
California  lured  him  across  the  plains  to  the  golden  state.  However,  he  sojourned  in  the  gold  fields  but  a  few  months,  when 
he  returned  to  Iowa.  Like  most  others  who  once  enjoyed  the  beautiful  climate  of  the  Pacific  coast,  he  concluded  to  come 
to  Oregon,  which  he  did  in  1S53,  by  the  southern  route,  direct  to  Jackson  county,  where  he  has  since  lived,  amassed  a  com 
petency,  and  built  up  a  reputation  for  truth,  honesty,  and  integrity.  Mr.  Walker  was  married  January  26,  1855,  to  Mary  A. 
relict  of  C.  F.  Walker,  and  daughter  of  Nathaniel  Myer,  late  of  Ashland.  His  family  now  consists  of  his  wife  and  four  chil 
dren,  viz:  Mary  E.,  Milo  A:,  Cassius  C.  and  Annie  T.  His  home — a  view  of  which  appears  in  this  history — is  situated  on 
mile  south  of  Ashland,  is  among  the  most  valuable  and  best  improved  farms  in  Southern  Oregon.  Mr.  Walker  is  ever  ready, 
both  by  means  and  counsel,  to  assist  in  the  advancement  of  every  good  cause.  Thus  distinguished  for  all  the  virtues  that 
adorn  the  character  of  friend,  neighbor,  and  citizen,  he  lives  in  his  own  quiet  way  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  fruits  of  his  own 
industry. 


APPENDIX. 


543 


FRAZIER  WARD,  was  born  in  Warren  county,  Missouri,  May  lo,  1832.  At  the  early  age  of  thirteen  years  he  was 
left  an  o,phan-h.s  father  dying  when  Frazier  was  but  six  years  old.  On  the  death  of  his  mother  he  was  adopted  into  the 
family  of  Mr.  John  Wjatt,  with  whom  he  lived  until  twenty-one  years  of  age.  He  then  concluded  to  come  to  the  Pacific  coast 
and  in  the  spring  of  1853  joined  a  party  of  emigrants  to  Oregon.  On  his  arrival  in  this  state  Mr.  Ward  came  direct  to  Doug- 
las county,  first  locating  in  the  French  settlement,  and  in  the  fall  of  that  year  located  his  present  farm,  consisting  of  320  acres, 
some  four  miles  north  of  Looking-glass,  where  he  has  since  resided,  successfully  engaged  in  general  farming  and  stock  raising'. 
In  addition  to  his  splendid  farm  on  which  he  resides,  Mr.  Ward  owns  some  900  acres  north  of  Coles'  valley,  A  view  of  his 
residence  will  be  found  in  this  work.  Mr.  Ward  was  married  in  the  French  settlement  in  1S57,  to  Mary  A.,  the  youngest 
daughter  of  H.  B.  Flournoy,  now  deceased,  an  early  and  highly  respected  citizen  of  Douglas  county,  and  the  firs't  settler  in  the 
valley  that  now  bears  his  name.  They  had  nine  children,  of  whom  three  are  deceased.  Those  living  are:  Howard  I,., 
Lillie  N.,  Mary  V.,  Thomas  F.,  Winnie  O.  and  MaggieA.     Those  deceased  are:  Oscar  A.,  Samuel  H.  and  Whafie  W. 

COLONEL  JAMES  WATERS,  was  born  February  22,  1797,  in  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania.  Fought  in  the  war 
of  1812  as  a  volunteer;  enlisted  in  regular  army  in  1818,  served  five  years  and  was  discharged  in  1823;  fought  under  Colonel 
Taylor  in  Seminole  war  in  1S36-7.  In  the  fall  of  1837  he  was  under  the  command  of  General  Deniphan,  in  the  fight  against 
the  Mormons  in  Missouri.  Came  to  Oregon  in  1843.  Entered  the  Cayuse  war  as  lieutenant-colonel,  and  at  the  death  of 
Colonel  Gilliam  was  promoted  to  colonel.  He  moved  to  Douglas  county  in  1S53,  and  is  now  living  on  Looking-glass  creek 
about  one  and  three-fourth  mile  from  Looking-glass  village.  He  was  married  in  1825  to  Miss  Mary  Wills,  to  whom  were  born 
si.x  children. 

JOHN  W.  WEAVER,  a  resident  of  Douglas  county,  Oregon,  since  1850,  was  born  in  Blunt  county  Tennessee, 
February  28,  1832.  When  he  was  three  years  old  his  parents  moved  to  Clay  county,  Kentucky,  where  he  received  a  common 
school  education,  and  resided  until  1842.  After  a  short  stay  in  Van  Buren  county,  he  with  his  parents  moved  to  Taney  county, 
Missouri,  and  there  resided  until  April  22,  1850,  when  Mr.  Weaver,  with  his  father,  mother,  one  brother  and  twosistens,  started 
with  O.X  teams  to  Oregon.  After  a  tedious  trip  of  six  months— to  a  day— they  first  entered  the  boundaries  of  Oregon.  July  8, 
1851,  the  family  came  to  Douglas  county  and  settled  on  the  place  now  owned  by  Mr.  Weaver,  and  one  year  later  built  the 
residence  in  which  Mr.  Weaver  now  lives,  and  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  oldest  frame  house  in  Douglas  county— a  view  of 
the  same  will  be  found  in  this  history.     Here,  for  the  past  thirty-two  years,  Mr.  Weaver  has  resided,  and  through  honesty  and 

industry  has  accumulated  a  sufficient  amount  of  this  world's  goods   as  to  allow  him  to  enjoy  the  comforts  of  a  happy  home 

made  doubly  so  by  the  presence  of  his   wife  and   family  of  three   children— whose  names  are:  George  Walter,  Lulie   .\I.  and 
Frank. 

DANIEL  WELKER,  was  born  in  Perry  county,  Missouri,  December  3,  182S.  At  the  age  of  sixteen,  his  father 
being  badly  hurt  by  a  vicious  horse,  Daniel  was  sent  to  live  with  an  uncle  until  April  I,  1852,  when  he,  in  company  with  Rob- 
ert Henkle  and  family,  and  an  uncle,  Wm.  Fulbright,  started  with  ox  teams  to  cross  the  plains  to  Oregon.  After  and  une- 
ventful trip  of  six  months  they  arrived  in  Marion  county,  Mr.  Welker  locating  some  ten  miles  southeast  of  .Salem,  where  he 
resided  until  June,  1855.  He  then  came  to  Douglas  county,  and  fii-st  located  on  land  now  owned  by  Mr.  Tipton,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  North  Umpqua  river,  remaining  there  until  1864,  when  he  purchased  his  present  place,  consisting  of  900  acres  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  North  Umpqua  river,  some  fifteen  miles  from  Roseburg.  Mr.  Welker  has  a  well  improved  farm,  and  is 
highly  respected  by  his  neighbors  and  the  county  people  in  general,  and  is  considered  one  of  Douglas  county's  solid  men.  A 
view  of  his  home  will  be  found  in  ths  work.  Mr.  \V.  was  united  in  marriage  in  June,  1855,  to  Miss  Mary  J.  Tipton,  a 
native  of  Tennessee.  They  have  five  children  living,  viz:  Sarah  E.,  now  Mfs.  Edward  Smith;  Martha  A.,  Ida  May,  £^da  J. 
and  William  W. 

L.  L.  WILLIAMS. — In  all  animate  life  there  are  grades  of  intelligence  so  plainly  marked  that  the  difference  is  evi- 
dent at  a  glance.  Between  men  this  gradation  is  so  distinguishable  and  universal  that  attention  has  only  to  be  called  to  the  fact, 
to  secure  its  unquestioned  recognition.  Among  the  Australian  Bushmen  or  in  the  court  circle  of  kings,  the  geniu^  of  a  few 
men  lead,  while  the  many  follow.  These  are  but  truisms,  facts  old  as  the  human  family;  still,  it  is  not  out  of  place  to  call 
attention  to  them  and  the  addtional  truth  that  it  is  not  infrequent  for  many,  who  follow  some  distance  in  the  rear  to  forget,  when 
the  smoke  of  battle  has  passed,  that  they  were  not  in  the  van.  Nature  designs  some  men  for  active  service,  and  for  such  to 
fall  short  of  becoming  an  important  element  in  the  progressive  eperations  of  whatever  sphere  circumstances  places  them,  would 
be  something  theycould  not  do.  It  would  be  impossible  for  comprehensive  minds  to  dwell  upDn  that  which  failed  to  possess 
the  charm  of  intricacy  or  magnitude  something  beyond  the  ordinary;  and  those  jiossessing  such  faculties  move  off  in  the 
advance,  plan  and  execute  where  others  hesitate  and  fail  to  act.  Every  community  has  widiin  it  characters  of  this  kind  more 
or  less  marked,  who  arc  termed  the  leading  men  or  minds.  In  Southern  Oregon  there  was  one  of  this  class  who  stood  so  far 
in  the  van  of  progress,  that  his  name  has  but  lo  be  mentioned  to  elicit  a  universal  approval  of  the  assertion  from  all  except  his 
personal  enemies,  or  the  envious,  whose  opiniorisare  of  little  value.  We  refer  to  the  gentleman  whose  name  heads  this  me- 
moir, and  the  reader  has  but  to  learn  what  his  operatiims  iii  this  county  have  been,  to  cheerfully  accord  him  the  meed  of 
approval.  He  did  not  derive  as  much  personal  benefit  from  the  result  of  his  labors  as  the  people  o(  the  county  have,  and  his 
business  efl!brts  were  all  of  a  nature,  calculated  to  inure  to  the  public  advantage  more  than  his  private  advancement.  .Mr. 
Williams  was  born«in  Vermont  in  1831,  and  with  his  parents  moved  to  Michigan  in  1833,  »"''  'i  that  stale  resided  some  sixty 
miles  from  Detroit  until  fifteen  years  of  age.  That  reguon  was  then  newly  settled,  and  young  Williams  never  attendeil  schi>i>l. 
At  the  age  above  mentioned  he  joined  a  party  of  trappers  and  hunters,  and  from  that  time  he  became  a  self-reliant  frontiersman, 
which  character  he  well  maintained  until  the  time  of  his  death.  He  reached  California  in  .1850,  and  the  following  year  came 
to  Port  Orford  with  Captain  Tichenor.  In  1851  he  was  seriously  wounded  in  an  engagement  with  the  Indians,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Coquille  river,  from  the  effect  of  which  it  is  doubtful  if  he  ever  fully  reco\;pred.  A  few  years  later  he  served  as  treasurer 
of  Umpqua  county  for  two  terms,  and  ofter«»rds  was  twice  elected  county  clerk  of  the  same  county.  .After  the  consolidai  inn 
of  Umpqua  and  Douglas  he  was  three  times  elected  and  twice  appointed  to  the  office  of  cnuntv  rl.-rk,  lu.l  was  one  of  the  ni..>.i 


5U  APPENDIX. 

faithful  and  capable  officers  that  county  has  ever  had.  In  1863  he  became  captain  of  a  company  of  Oregon  vohmteeis,  and 
served  about  three  years  against  the  Indians.  During  the  last  ten  years  he  traveled  much,  \nsiting  the  Black  Hills,  the  Yel- 
lowstone park,  and  the  various  portions  of  the  British  possessions.  AVhile  on  a  visit  to  California  he  was  taken  sick  in  San 
Fr.incisco,  and  after  a  short  illness  died  March  25,  1881.  His  remains  were  taken  charge  of  by  the  Odd  Fellows,  of  which 
society  he  was  an  exemplary  member — and  conveyed  to  Roseburg,  where  they  were  deposited  in  the  Odd  Fellows'  cemetery, 
and  by  that  order  a  beautiful  monument  was  erected  to  his  memory,  a  view  of  which  appears  among  the  illustrations  of  this 
work.  He  was  a  man  of  superior  abilit;-,  a  self-taught  scohlar,  rigidly  temperate  and  virtuous  in  his  habits,  and  scrupulously 
honest  in  his  dealings  with  his  fellow  men. 

REV.  W.  A.  WILLIS. — There  are  probably  few  men  in  the  state  of  Oregon  who  have  worked  with  more  zeal  in  the 
vineyard  of  the  Lord  and  at  the  same  time  looked  after  agricultural  interests  with  more  energy  than  the  subject  of  this  sketch. 
Mr.  Willis  was  one  of  the  very  first  settlers  in  Deer  creek  valley,  having  selected  and  located  his  present  valuable  farm  in  1852, 
and  in  that  year  built  his  present  residence — a  view  of  which  appears  in  this  history.  Mr.  Willis  is  a  Kentuckian  by  birth, 
born  in  Todd  county,  November  15,  1822,  and  in  his  early  childhood  was  taught  the  strict  religious  principles  of  the  M.  E. 
church,  the  fruits  of  that  teaching  culminating  in  his  becoming  a  minister  of  that  denomination.  In  1S52  he  crossed  the  plains 
to  this  coast,  since  which  time  he  has  resided  on  his  present  place,  consisting  of  4CX3  acres,  seven  miles  east  of  Roseburg.  Mr. 
Willis  is  married,  and  has  a  family  of  three  children. 

ANTHONY  H.  WOODRUFF,  now  resides  on  a  farm  one  mile  north  of  Cleveland,  Douglas  county,  on  the  border 
of  which  runs  the  Unipqua  river.  This  place  is  counted  among  the  most  valuable  in  the  county;  contains  some  900  acres;  is 
well  fenced  and  cultivated;  has  a  fine  new  residence  and  a  large  orchard.  For  general  appearance  and  adjacent  scenery  the 
reader  is  referred  to  a  view  of  it  accompanying  this  work.  Mr.  W'oodruff  was  born  in  Ontario  county,  New  York,  October  12, 
1815,  and  is  now  (1S84),  in  his  sixty-ninth  year,  but  is  still  hale  and  vigorous.      He  is  married  and  has  raised  a  large  family. 

JOHN  M.  WRIGHT. — A  prosperous  and  well  to  do  farmer  of  the  French  Settlement,  is  a  native  of  Kanawha  county. 
West  Virginia,  born  June  12,  1826,  Residing  in  his  birth-place  until  1843 — '"  'he  meantime  learning  the  trade  of  cooper — he 
with  his  parents  moved  to  Linn  county,  Missouri  and  there  embarked  in  farming  until  the  spring  of  1S50,  when,  with  his 
brother,  Louis  F.,  he  started  for  California.  On  his  arrival  he  at  once  proceeded  to  the  mines  on  the  American  river  where  he 
mined  with  good  success  until  March,  1851,  and  then  returned  to  his  home  in  Missouri  via.  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  with  the 
intention  of  bringing  his  family  to  California.  April  20,  1852,  found  Mr.  Wright  again  ready  to  brave  the  dangers  of  a  trip 
across  the  plains  accompanied  by  his  wife  and  three  children,  and  his  brother-in-law,  John  P.  Bowyer.  On  arriving  in  the 
Black  Hills  they  were  met  by  Mr.  H.  B.  Flournoy  then  on  his  way  East,  and  by  him  induced,  on  account  of  the  bad  roads  on 
the  California  route,  to  change  their  course  to  Oregon.  After  a  weary  trip  of  some  six  months  they  arrived  at  The  Dalles, 
September  6,  1852.  Mr.  Wright  first  located  near  Corvallis,  where  he  remained  until  February,  1853,  and  then  located  in 
Douglas  county,  first  settling  on  land  now  owned  by  J.  Flournoy,  where  he  resided  until  1857,  when  he  purchased  of  E.  il. 
Moore  his  present  valuable  farm  consisting  of  600  acres,  five  miles  north  of  Looking-glass.  A  view  of  his  farm  residence,  which 
will  compare  favorably  with  any  in  Douglas  county,  will  be  found  in  this  work.  Mr.  Wright  is  a  highly  respected  and  influential 
citizen,  and  now  after  many  years  of  toil  and  hardships  is  prepared  to  reap  the  comforts  of  a  well  spent  and  prosperous  life. 
Mr.  W.  was  united  in  marriage  in  Missouri,  June  17,  1846,  to  Miss  Emily  Simmons,  a  daughter  of  Thomas  Simmons,  of  How- 
ard county;  they  have  a  grown  family  of  three  sons  and  four  daughters,  as  follows:  W'illiam  W.,  Roena  L.,  now  Mrs.  Joseph 
Jones;  Missouri  N.,  now  Mrs.  L.  T.  Thompson;  Alice  G.  V.,  now  Mrs.  Van  Buren;  Emily  M.,  now  Mrs.  David  West;  Calvin 
W.  and  Lee  S.  Alson,  and  one  adopted  daughter,  Lizzie. 

JOHN  B.  WRISLEY.— A  man  whose  almost  entire  life  has  been  spent  on  the  frontier,  was  born  in  Middlebury, 
Vermont,  August  16,  1819.  During  Mr.  Wrisley's  early  life  his  father  was  proprietor  of  a  large  manufacturing  establishment 
at  Hoosac  Falls,  but  being  called  upon  suddenly  for  the  payment  of  a  large  security  debt  he  was  financially  broken  up,  and 
removed  with  his  family  to  the  Genesee  valley  in  the  state  of  New  York.  When  John  was  only  thirteen  years  of  age  his  father 
moved  to  Silver,  Washlinau  county,  Michigan,  then  a  wild  territory,  settling  with  his  family  at  a  point  from  which  their  nearest 
neighbor  was  eighteen  miles  distant.  Here  John  B.  Wrisley  learned  blacksmithing  and  the  rudiments  of  farming,  and  in  1S40, 
the  family  scattered,  he  went  to  the  territory  of  Wisconsin  and  commenced  work  in  the  lead  mines  at  Mineral  Point.  On 
June  15,  1845,  he  married  Eliza  Jane  Jacobs,  by  whom  he  has  raised  ten  children,  the  eldest  daughter,  Mrs.  Alice  Goddard, 
being  the  first  white  child  born  in  the  Rogue  river  valley.  In  1849,  Mr.  Wrisley  crossed  the  plains  alone  to  California,  working 
at  Auburn,  Placer  county,  at  Yankee  Jim's  on  the  North  Fork  of  the  American  river,  and  on  the  Trinity,  being  one  of  the  first 
miners  on  the  latter  stream.  Returning  to  Auburn  from  Trinity,  he  found  an  extremely  rich  claim,  but  being  in  bad  health  and 
unable  to  work,  he  returned  to  his  family  in  Wisconsin  in  1S50.  He  did  not  remain  long,  however,  and  yearning  for  the  free 
wild  life  of  the  early  days  on  this  coast,  he  started  across  the  plains  with  his  family  and  a  large  band  of  cattle,  arriving  in  Yreka 
with  but  two  yoke  of  cattle  and  one  cow  out  of  the  whole  band.  Mr.  Wrisley  remained  but  a  short  time  in  Yreka.  Coming 
to  the  Rogue  river  valley  in  1852,  he  located  a  donation  claim  on  the  north  side  of  Rogue  river  where  he  resided  for  thirteen 
years.  In  1865,  Mr.  Wrisley  bought  a  farm  near  Central  Point,  which  now  comprises  four  hundred  and  eighty  acres  of  rich 
land,  and  as  near  the  frontier  as  he  wishes  to  be.  John  is  truly  a  pioneer  if  there  is  one,  and  knows  the  danger  of  pioneer  life. 
He  has  voted  for  the  state  constitution  of  Wisconsin,  California  and  Oregon.  He  has  passed  safely  all  the  Indian  wars  of  this 
section  as  a  high  private,  never  accepting  military  or  civil  office.  John  B.  Wrisley  still  continues  to  reside  on  his  farm  near 
Central  Point— a  view  of  which  can  be  found  in  this  work — and  is  noted  for  being  an  honest,  upright  gentleman,  a  care- 
ful industrious  farmer,   honored  by  friends  and  beloved  by  his  family. 


i 


APPENDIX.  545 

MARSHFIELD  SAW  MILLS  AND  SHIP  YARD,  a  view  of  which  appears  in  this  work.  This  is  one  of 
the  ra  ost  extensive  industries  in  Southern  Oregon  and  will  compare  favorably  with  any  other  enterprise  of  the  kind  in  the  state. 
Situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  town  of  Marshfield,  the  main  mill  building  being  two  hundred  by  two  hundred  feet,  and 
supplied  with  all  the  latest  improved  machinery,  it  having  a  capacity  of  thirteen  millions  feet  of  lumber  per  year.  This  mill  was 
first  built  by  John  Pershbaker  in  the  year  1867  and  run  by  him  until  1871,  then  having  a  capacity  of  twenty-five  thousand  feet 
per  day.  It  then  passed  into  other  hands  until  1873,  when  the  present  firm  of  E.  B.  Dean  &  Co.,  purchased  the  property,  this 
firm  is  composed  of  the  following  gentlemen:  E.  B.  Dean,  David  Wilcox  and  Charles  H.  Merchant,  the  latter  being  the  resident 
partner  and  manager  and  to  whose  business  ability  its  present  success  is  due.  In  connection  with  the  mill  they  have  a  ship 
yard  where  two  or  more  vessels  are  built  per  year,  and  many  of  the  well  known  schooners  plying  in  the  coasting  trade  were  built 
at  this  yard.  At  the  present  time  they  emyloy  forty-five  men  in  the  mills  and  about  one  hundred  in  their  logging  camps,  they 
owning  a  large  tract  of  timber  land  in  Coos  county.  The  lumber  sawed  at  these  mills  is  fir,  spruce  and  white  cedar,  the'  most 
of  which  is  shipped  to  California  and  foreign  ports.  In  connection  with  their  mill  and  ship  yard  they  run  a  large  general  mer- 
chandise store  situated  a  short  distance  from  the  mill,  and  carry  a  stock  of  goods  valued  at  thirty  thousand  dollars. 

SEASIDE  CITY. — This  town,  the  last  in  Coos  county  to  the  southwest,  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  level  plain  at  the 
mouth  cf  the  Coquille  river,  and  having  an  elevation  of  200  feet  above  the  sea  level.  It  was  laid  out  in  March,  1S84,  by  Mr. 
J.  P.  Tapper,  and  at  the  present  time  consists  of  one  hotel,  the  "Ocean  House,"  kept  by  J.  P.  Tupp3r,  a  view  of  which  will 
he  found  in  this  work,  and  one  store.  Seaside  City  promises  to  be  a  place  of  considerable  importance  in  the  near  future,  as 
at  the  present  time  it  is  considered  one  of  the  most  pleasant  summer  resorts  in  Southern  Oregon,  having  all  the  natural  advan- 
tages of  scenery,  a  beautiful  beach,  and  a  delightful  climate,  and  in  the  hands  of  its  present  owner,  Mr.  Tupper,  Seaside  City 
is  Ijound  to  become  a  resting  place  for  the  weaiy. 

RANDOLPH  BREWERY.— This  enterprise  is  located  at  Randolph,  Coos  county,  and  first  began  in  January,  18S3, 
liy  its  present  proprietor,  Mr.  Joseph  Walser,  it  having  a  capacity  at  that  time  of  300  barrels  per  month,  to  which  he  has  since 
added  to,  until  now  the  brewery  has  a  capacity  of  over  400  barrels  per  month.  At  the  present  time  there  is  not  over  one-half 
the  capacity  of  the  brewery  made.     The  beer  manufactured  by  Mr.  Walser  is  pronounced  to  be  of  the  finest  quality. 

CAPE  BLANCO  LIGHT  HOUSE.— This  is  one  of  the  most  important  lights  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  was 
established  in  1870,  and  lies  in  latitude  42'  50'  07",  longitude  124'  32'  29".  The  light  tower  itself,  a  massive  structure,  built 
entirely  of  brick  and  iron,  and  readies  a  height  of  about  eighty  feet,  stands  on  the  extreme  outer  edge  of  the  Cape  after  which 
it  is  named.  Cape  Blanco  is  the  most  westerly  point  of  land  in  the  United  States,  and  has  a  light  of  the  first  order,  using 
what  is  termed  the  white  lights.  The  cost  of  the  structure,  together  with  the  large  brick  residence  for  the  keepers  adjoining, 
a  building  90x100  feet  and  two-stories  high,  was  close  to  $100,000.  Lieutenant-Colonel  R.  A.  Williamson  superintended 
the  Iniilding  of  the  structures,  and  the  first  keeper  appointed  was  H.  Burnap,  he  having  charge  until  1874  ;  when  in  that  year 
C.  W.  Terry  was  appointed,  and  he  in  turn  was  relieved  by  C.  H.  Pierce,  who  was  the  custodian  of  the  lights  until  Septem- 
ber, 1S83,  when  its  present  efficient  keeper,  Mr.  James  S.  Langlois,  who  had  served  as  under  keeper  for  some  six  years,  was 
appointed. 


209G 


I