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1285025
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
3 1833 00828 5105
HISTORY OF
TULARE and KINGS COUNTIES
CALIFORNIA
Biographical SJ^etches
The Leading Men and Women of the Counties Who Have Been Identified
With Their Growth and Development From the
Early T)ays to the Present
HISTOKY BY
EUGENE L. MENEFEE
AND
FRED A. DODGE
ILLUSTRATED
COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME
HISTOEIC EECORD COMPANY
LOS ANGELES, CviLIFOKNIA
[1913]
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I. 1285025
Introductory to History of Tulare County 5
Earliest White Comers to County Bore Name ot Smith— Indian Records
of Prior Inhabitants—The Year 1S49 Brings Changes— First Real Settler
"^J Locates in 1850 — Other Settlers Follow — Rescue of the Wingflelds —
^ Election of Officers — Derivation of Name Visalia— Survev tor Railroad
^ in 1853.
x3
\
CHAPTER. II.
Indian War of 1856 20
Indians a Factor in Growth of Settlement — Interesting Accounts by
Stephen Barton — Cattle Stealing the Source ot Trouble — Tocsin of War
Continues to Sound — War Is Waged Between Whites and Indians-
Indian Troubles in Owens River District — Hospital Rock.
CHAPTER III.
The Effect of the Civil War on Tulare County 28
Southerners Constitute Larger Part of Tulare's Population— Troops
Sent to Visalia— Whiskey Plays a Part in the Difficulties — Union Meet-
ing Held— Southern Sympathizers Meet— Killing of Vogle— Killing of
Stroble — Rowley Affair — Destruction of Newspaper Plant.
CHAPTER IV.
Visalia 34
Impress of the Vise Family on the Little Settlement — Settlers Who Fol-
lowed — Early Newspapers — View of the Town in Early Days — First
Fireworks— Gas Works and Electric Plant Established— City Hall
Erected — Effect of the Wyllie Local Option Law— Visalia of Today.
CHAPTER V.
Tulare County's Citru.s Fruit. . 41
Eastern Slope of the County Almost Continuous Orange Grove — First
Orange Tree Planted in 1860 — Growth of the Industry — County's Fruits
Displayed at St. Louis Fair — Tulare County Ranks Fifth in Point of
Citrus Production in State — County's Present Area.
CHAPTER VI.
The General Rodeo 46
Cattle Raising in the Early Days — Act of Legislature of 1851— White
River Incident — Interest in Mining Superseded by Cattle Raising — "No-
Fence" Law.
CHAPTER VII.
Exeter and Other Towns - 49
Railroad Reaches Exeter in 1888 — Pacific Improvement Company-
Exeter's Steady Progress— Monson — Kaweah — North Tule — Pixley —
Tipton — Alila- Poplar — Frazier — Woodville — Strathmore — Eshom
Valley— Alpaugh-Tagus— Goshen— Paige— Angiola — Yettera — Piano
—Three Rivers— Springville — Mineral King — Traver— Hockett Meadows
—Redbanks— White River— Giant Forest — Orosi—Naranjo— Monson—
Oriole Lodge— Venice— Klink — Waukena— Woodlake — California Hot
Springs — Terra Bella— Ducor and Richgrove— Farmersville— Camp Nel-
son — Camp Badger — Auckland — Kaweah Station.
CHAPTER VIII.
PORTERVILLE AND OthER TowNS 75
Located on the old immigrant road — J. B. Hcickett. a camper of '49 —
Town named for Royal Porter Putnam — Cattle raising chief occupation
Coming of railroad in 1888 — Porterville becomes a town of the sixth
class in 1902 — Schools — Water system — Packing houses — Library —
Churches — Banks — Newspapers — Fraternal Lodges — ^Dinuba — Tulare —
Lemon Cove — Sultana — Lindsay.
CHAPTER IX.
Anecdotes 88
Adventures with Indians — Poindexter nuptials — Piddling from Donkey's
back — The McCrory Episode — Morris-Shannon affray — Stapleford-Dep-
uty affair — James M'Kinney's High Life — The Magana Butchery — Mis-
cellaneous Items — Crossing Streams in the '50s — County Scrip and Gold
Dust — An Indian Runner — Visalia's First Business Directory — Second
Courthouse — Cemeteries — Visalia's Title — Politics — Arrival of the Tele-
graph — A Vigorous Protest — A Novel Engine — Flood Times — The Lost
Mine — Some Statistics of 1870 — Mankins' Party Arrival — No Fence
Law — As Seen by Fremont.
CHAPTER X.
The Mussel Slough War 110
Early Settlers in the Mussel Slough Country — Land League's Fight
"WMth the Railroad.
CHAPTER XI.
The Kaweah Colony 113
One of the Greatest Community Enterprises Ever Inaugurated in the
United States — Its Chief Promoters.
CHAPTER XII.
The Aborigines 118
Traditions — Creation Myth of the Yokuts— Diet — Indian Weapons^
The Medicine Man— Gathering Salt — Capturing Wild Pigeons — Novel
Fishing — Hunting Deer — Charming a Squirrel — Catching Ducks.
CHAPTER XIII.
National Parks 123
General Grant Park — Sequoia National Park — Mountain Trails — County
Roads During the Late '50s.
CHAPTER XIV.
Development of Industries 130
Electric Power — Irrigation — Alta District — Tulare Irrigation District —
Artesian and Other Wells — Dairying Industry — Deciduous Fruit — The
Watermelon.
CHAPTER XV.
The Railroad Dream 144
Bidding for the Railroad — The Visalia and Tulare Railroad — East Side
Railroad— Coming of the Santa Fe— The Visalia Electric— The Por-
terville NorthEastern.
CHAPTER XVI.
Great Train Robberies 148
First of Five Robberies Occurs at Pixley — The Dalton Gang — The Collis
Robbery — The Evans and Sontag Tragedies.
CONTENTS
V 1 1
CHAPTER XVII.
Churches, Schools, Population 154
The South Methodist— Baptist— Sunday Schools— Presbyterian— Luth-
eran — Episcopal — Catholic — Methodist Episcopal — Christian — Training
of the Young — Population — Property Values.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Tulare's Officers 163
Supervisors — The Judiciary — The Lawmakers — Sheriff — District Attor-
ney — Assessor — Surveyor — Tax Collector — Treasurer — Recorder — Public
Administrator — Auditor — Superintendent of Schools — Coroner.
CHAPTER XIX.
Tulare County Today 167
The County's Boundaries — Nature of the Soil — Towns and Cities— Or-
ange Groves — Forests.
CHAPTER XX.
The Organiz.\tion op Kings County 174
Creation and Organization of the County — Received Its Name from
Kings River- The Division Fight a Feature of the Session of 1892-93—
Area of the County.
CHAPTER XXI.
Lucerne Valley 178
Mussel Slough Rechristened Lucerne Valley — The Founding of the Han-
ford Weekly Sentinel.
CHAPTER XXII.
Early County Politics 179
Political Organization of Kings County— First Election Called — Parties
in Action — Setting Up Housekeeping — No County Building — County
Without Funds — First Tax Rate Fixed — County Elections.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Irrigation . . 192
Beginning of Irrigation in Kings County — Pioneers in the Venture-
Settlers' Ditch — Last Chance — Lakeland Canal and Irrigation Company
— Blakeley Ditch — Kings Canal and Irrigation Company — Rainfall for
Twenty-one Years.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Exit and Return of Tul.vre Lake — 200
An Interesting Natural Phenomenon— Original Area of Lake — Swamp
and Overflow Land Act — "Lakelanders" — Lake Disappears in 1S95 —
Water Returns and Grain Is Destroyed.
CHAPTER XXV.
Railroads 202
San Joaquin Valley Railroad Company — Its Promoters— Upbuilding In-
fluence of Improved Transportation Facilities.
CHAPTER XXVL
Dairy Industry 207
Dairying in County Dates from 1889 — Co-operative Company Formed—
Factories Built— Alfalfa-Raising and Cheese-Making— Butter-Making—
County Has Five Incorporated Creameries.
V i i i CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXVII.
City of Hanford 209
City Laid Out in 1877 — Named After James Hanford — Officers of City
Prom 1891 to 1913— Hanford of Today— Vanisliing of the Saloons-
Churches — Schools of Kings County — Free Public Library.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Lemoore 219
Location and Population — Its Founder — Early Settlers — Coming of Rail-
road — Churches and Public Buildings — Industries.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Evolution of the San Joaquin Valley 220
Address by John G. Covert Upon History of the Valley — First Seen by
White Men in 1772— Mount Diablo— Valley Begins to Attract Attention
in 1849 — Cattle Raising First Industry — Wheat Farming Follows — Area
of Valley — Oil Fields — Improvement in Railroad Pacilites.
INDEX
Abbott. Daniel
Adams. Frank C
Adams, William J
Agnew, Jesse B
Ainsworth, Piancis M
Akin, James M
Alford, Wilham
Allen, Byron
Allen, Geoige E
Antrim, Cabin H
Arnett. Ri. hard H
Ashley, A. N
Askin, Herbert
Askin, Capt Robert M
Atwell, Allen J
Aulman, Phillip
Baca, Sam os
Bacon, Jameb A
Bacon, John
Bagby, Earl
Bairstow, John W
Baker, Chauncej M
Baker, Sands
Balaam, Alfred
Ballou, George A
Bardsley, L W
Barnett, Bught E
Barney, B. L
Barney, Fred M
Bartlett, George
Barton, Orlando D
Bass, Alexandei W
Bassett. Mark
Bassett, AA'iUiam G
Batchelder, Elmer A
Baumann, George W
Baxley, John W
Belz, Andiew G
Bequette, Charles C
Bequette, lames R
Bequette, Louis
Bequette, Paschal, Jr
Bergen, Jaspei N
Bernstein, William P
Berry, R. L
Bertch, Henry
482
534
424
423
Best, Alexander M
621
Bezera, Joseph
597
Biddle, Joseph D
Biddle, Samuel E
315
326
87.5
761
Blain, Frank L
Blain, William H
533
546
364
829
783
832
841
Blair, Thomas H
Blakeley, Frank
Blakeley, James M
418
528
.588
Blamquist, Charles R
Blaswick, Charles F
509
477
513
Bliss, George L
796
687
Blossom, Ira
628
598
784
Blowers, Cassius M
Bloyd, Levi.
298
650
855
Bloyd, William \V
323
527
Bloyd. Winfield S
382
Bloyd. W. W
716
Bondson. Peter
755
752
Booker. Sanford
243
830
Boone, James T
763
839
494
Borgman, Henry J
Bowker, N. B
596
874
602
Bozeman, John W
S33
496
357
Braly. William H
Brazill. M. P
794
689
757
Brewer, Samuel A
481
464
662
Bridges, Geoige
Brooks, Parker R
785
660
702
Brothers, John
502
552
Brown, H. P
871
648
679
Brown, Joseph C
Brown. Philip S
272
75<)
483
Brown. Samuel C
754
505
Brown. Volnej A
272
717
Brown. William S
6b4
715
Brown. William W
756
617
Bruce, Lewis
654
380
Buckbee. Martha J
66S
553
Budd, William
678
276
419
Burgamaster, Julius
Burke, Ivan C
550
374
669
Burke, Richard
835
772
Burnham, John B
580
456
Burr. Walter S
531
858
Burrel, Cuthberl
703
625
695
Burrell, John
Burton, Absalom
615
689
INDEX
Burton. Arthur
724
Bush, Edward E
877
Byron, E. H., M D
404
Byron, Henry W
676
Byron, Lincoln H
485
Byron, William P . M D
426
Campbell, F. D
427
Cann. .Tames M
661
Carle, Charles J
648
Carlisle, Frederick M
776
Carter, David F
880
Cartmill, Wooster B
296
Cartmill, W. F , M D
446
Chance, Edward H
398
Charles, William B.. M. D
868
Chatten. John..
632
Chatten Richard
489
Chatten, Wilmot L
632
Church, Caryl..
492
Church, Elery H
672
Clark, Harry A
.551
Clark, Isaac
309
Clark, William B
590
Clark, William M
867
Clarke, Robert C
381
Clarkson, Thomas J
616
Clement. George S
735
Clemente, .John V
593
Click, Martin
838
Coats, Claude D
657
Cochran, S D
729
Cody, George W
536
Collins. Albert H
468
Collins, Oscar F
554
Collins. William W
425
Colpien, Henry
549
Comfort, Aimer B
417
Comfort, Byron G
650
Conkey, Fred W
800
Cooke, William R
805
Coolidge. Wilbur
518
Cooper, J. R
730
> Cosper, Elias T
654
Courtney, Samuel E
352
Crabtree, James A
516
Cramer, M. L.
855
Crane, Henry A
589
Crawshaw, J. A , M D
629
Creath, John V
658
Crook, Alexander
537
Cutler, A. R
420
Cutler, John
420
D
Daly, Arthur G 486
Danner, John C 441
Davenport, William H 607
Davidson, John W 674
Davis, Andrew J 601
Dean, Gilbert M. L 582
Dean, Jabel M 868
Dean, William F 766
Deardorff, Oscar S 515
Decker, Louis 591
De La Grange, Barney 847
DeMasters, David W 728
Denny, Harvey N 641
DeWitt, E. 665
DeWitt, William M 407
Dibble, A. Leroy 516
Dibble, Judson A .. 721
Dineley, Samuel . 765
Dingley, WiUard E 445
Dockstader, John W 524
Dodge, A. Fred . 524
Dodge, Fred A 307
Donager, Benjamin 637
Donahue, Martin 767
Doyle, John J 801
Dreisbach, A. M 836
Drennen. Winfred D 597
Dungan, A. Cliffoid 807
Dunlap. James E 592
Dunlap, John W 555
E
Eccles, Alexander C 501
Eklof, Charles J 423
Elliott, James M 556
Elster, C. A 771
Erlanger. Edward 726
Esrey, Jonathan 685
Estes. R. J 651
Evans. John F 558
Ewing. John, Jr 690
P
Farmer. George T 586
Farmer. Lyman D 538
Fenwick Sanitarium 493
Ferguson. Josiah M 837
Fickle, Benjamin J 764
Ficklin, Joseph L 535
Fincher, Robert P 666
Findley, William 840
Fine, James W 768
Finn, Daniel 758
First National Bank of Lemoore 308
First National Bank of Tulare 451
First National Bank of Visalia 731
Fisher, Charles 722
Fisher, James 733
Fitzsimons, Frank E 436
Follett, Lyman L 73")
Fontana, M. J 872
Foster, Earl P 642
• Foster, E. C, M D ■ 4:)7
Fowler, Perry D 397
Frans, John 691
Freeman, C E 6U
Fry, Walter 701
Fudge, Edmund J 60 {
Fulmer, Alfred C 348
Furman, William E 514
G
Gallaher, W C 367
Gamble, Da\id 770
Garcia, Mike V 652
Garr, John \\ 430
Gavotto, S 696
Giannini, Frank iJ59
Gibbons, O E 545
GibsoA, E. J 688
Gill, Charles 587
Gill, Fred 584
Gill, Lee 406
Gill, Levi L 686
Gilligan, Michael 846
Glasgow, John M 723
Glover, Louis N 706
Goble, William E 258
Gordon, George 370
Gough, William 566
Grabow, J -639
Graham, R M 643
Gray, Dallas H 759
Gregory, I^evy N 725
- Gribi, All)eit E 673
Griffin, Asa T 484
Griffith, Frank 439
Griswold, Oscar T 544
Guiberson, J W 411
Gurnee, Brewster S 791
Halford. Isaac T
Hall, Albert A
Hall, John E
Hall, Samuel W
Hamilton, Hugh L
Hamlin, Benjamin,
513
871
389
335
Hanford National Bank
636
Hannah, J. A
-23
Hansen, Christ S
653
Harris, G. C
376
Harris, Jesse W
586
Hart, Charles W
458
Hart. Edwin F
793
Harvey, John W
530
Hastings, V i.
720
Hauschildt, John H
4ST
Hawley, Luther C
395
Hayes. Frank P
876
Hays, John N
314
Headrick, Daniel
595
Henley, Sle..rien E
508
Herrin, Daniel M
506
Heusel, Will <iin F
775
Hickman, David H
644
Hicks. Benjamin
261
Hicks, Stephen B
548
Higdon, William J
304
Hight, Frank R
148
Hill, Melvin A
718
Hine, John H
881
Hockett, John 1!
848
Holley, C. H
732
HoUey, H. H
732
Homen, Manuel R
715
Homer, Joseph W
788
Horsman, Henij C
539
Hoskins. Charleb W
802
Houston, George W
719
Houston, James
851
Howard, Charles H
657
Howe, Albert P
705
Howe, Edwin H
532
Howe, Frank E
519
Howe, Fred C
. 490
Howes, Thomas E.
495
Howeth, Lewis W
738
Hubbs, Arthur P
. r&6
Huffaker, Jacob V
. 670
Hunsaker, I. B
. 554
Huntley, John H
. 255
Hyde, Jeremiah D
692
Hyde, Richard E
682
J
Jacob. Elias
737
Jacobs. Hon. Justin
278
1 Jacobs, H. Scott
405
Jameson, Irving L.
414
Jasper. George
461
Jenanyan, Moses S
. . 568
Johnson, James L
81?
INDEX
Johnson. John C
Jordan, John F
Joyner, Charles E
K
Kaehler, Mrs. Ida M
Kanawyer, Napoleon P..
Kellenherg, Frank R
Kelly, Samuel W
Kelsey, Hiram..
Kennedy & Robinson
Kenney, Samuel L
Kimball, S. C...
Kincaid, Roland L
King, Lowery B
Kinkade, Squire H
Kitchel, Elmer L
Klindera, John
Kneeland, Joel
Knierr, Albert
Knight, U G
Knight, Zenias
Knox, Geoige W
Knutson, l\er
Kyle, T. "W
Lafever, Andrew J...
LaMarche, Joseph
LaMarsna, Eber H
LaMarsna, Jeffery J
Laney, Archie F
Lathrop, Ezra.
Leach, John H
Leavens, Peter
Leavens, William A
Lee, Anderson W
Leebon, John A
Lemos, Manuel B
Leonl, Leo
Lewis, D. W
Lewis, Thomas
Ley, Joseph
Light, H. J
Lindsey, Tipton
Lorendo, Gideon
Loucks, Hon. Geo. P
Lovelace, Byron O
Lovelace, Joseph \V
Luce, Eugene A
Lynch, Michael M
M
McAdam. Frank S..
McAdam, James
844
McAdam Ranches
319
331
McAdam, Robert
744
630
McAdam, William J
363
McCarthy, Thomas
512
McClure. Benjamin E
700
496
McCord, William P
345
640
McCracken, W. H
521
859
McParland, Charles G
616
408
361
McFarland, J. H. C
283
McLaughlin, Stiles A
843
455
837
McLean, P. A
336
Macfarlane, W. C
778
789
Machado, Manuel I
497
520
Maddox, Ben M..
362
480
Majors, Columbus P
241
815
795
697
Mardis, Oliver P
361
Marshall, Lionel W
390
Mafhewson, Arthur W
541
696
Mathewson, Earl
625
May, James H
504
694
36S
May, Jonathan W
764
581
Mayer, James B.
511
256
Mayes, Francis M
842
873
Melidonian, E. G
354
392
Michaelis, William
845
Miller, Herman T
747
Milleir Rnliprt W
324
SOS
Miller, William H , M. D
882
434
Miller, William R
360
673
Millinghausen. William H
572
699
Mills, Merritte T
748
565
Mitchell. Adolphus
803
288
Mitchell, Levi
769
Mitchell, S
731
675
Montgomery, Elbert R
518
b75
Montgomery, John
523
S16
Montgomery, Litchfield Y
287
547
Moore, Hiram
529
Moore, Orlando...
379
685
Moore, Robert A
429
707
Moorehead, James A
452
44o
Morgan, John T..
626
852
Murphy, Daniel
569
320
Murphy, Henry and Philena A
656
270
Murphy, Rev. James
812
448
391
Murray, Auram ri
821
Murray, Walter D
645
396
631
N
792
Navarre, Elizabeth
570
521
Newman, Frank A
310
Newman, Robert O
478
Newman, Thomas
613
. 325
Noble, George A
275
. 746
Null, Robert
749
Oakes. James W 853
Ogden, Robert K 864
Ogilvie, Albert G 649
Osborn, Prank 359
Overall, Daniel G 428
P
Parker, Hiram L 781
Parrlsh, P. M 540
Parsons, Ulysses G 573
Peacock, Harrison P 701
Perry, A. J 814
Peterson, Alfred. 347
Peterson, Carl A . 525
Phariss, Tillman B 875
Phelps, A. W 790
Phillips, Perry C . .777
Piatt, Louis P 527
Poe, Prank . 721
Pollock, George W 750
Powell, Prank 385
Powell. Harrison A 634
Powers, Richard 811
Prestidge, J. L 799
Price, James S 788
Putnam, Robert A 620
R
Ragle, Emanuel T 249
Ragle, Henry 752
Ragle. J. Albert ." 609
Raisch. Harry J 604
Ramsey, George U 698
Raney, As,buiv C 883
Ratliff, William P 870
Rea, Prank 814
Reed, Henry W 818
Reed, John R 619
Rehoefer, Samuel 714
Reinhart. William 5,')7
Renaud, Emerie 561
Rhodes, William C 57')
Rice, John C 605
Rice, J. Clarence 606
Rice, J. W B 37,^
Richardson, Preeman 638
Richardson Gustavus A 510
Richland Egg Ranch 778
Rivers, William 883
Robertson Prank P 574
Robinson. William W 820
Robison, George A 567
Rock, Henry P 708
Roes, Henry C
Ross, Ean...
Rosson, Charles T ,
Rourke, Michael P
Russell, J. C C
856
677
290
522
708
Sage, J. M 609
Sahroian, Fred 823
St. Bridget's Catholic Church 462
Salladay, A. J 782
Scher, Rev. Philip G 462
Schimmel Brothers 473
Schnereger & Downing 663
Schueller, John J 824
Sciarone, Andrew 610
Scoggins, Andrew J 269
Scoggins, J. E 884
Scoggins, R. E 886
Scott. Francis C 339
Sears, William A 821
Sellers. Edward G 680
Setliff, James M 469
Shannon, Carleton J 594
Sharp, Benjamin V 543
Shippey, Alvin B 498
Shoemaker. Robert M 472
Shreve, H. M 433
Sickles, Lewis A 571
Sigler, John , 611
Silveira, Joseph , 563
Singleton, M. P 797
Slocum, Alvin H 342
Smith, A. Prank 542
Smith, Cecil H 819
Smith. Charles E 470
Smith. Clark M 709
Smith. Enoch A _ 865
Smith, Frank 711
Smith, Frank P 739
Smith, Henry C 862
Smith. John H 457
Smith. Lewis S 866
Smith, Thomas 819
Smith, W. J 474
Stayton, Charles F 647
Steuben, William N 740
Steves, George H 683
Stokes, John W 2S1
Stokes, S. C 295
Storzback, Fred 'J14
Stubbelfield, William N 806
Sturgeon, Joseph W 710
Swall, Arthur :^8C
Swall, William 849
INDEX
Swan, William 353
Sweeney, James 741
T
Taylor, J. L '"-''^
Teague, George H 825
Thayer, J. Carl ^t;?
Thayer, William H 383
The Old Bank ot Hanford 438
Thomas. F. A 4^^
Thomas, Isaac H 2«3
Thomas, Jesse A "4'-'
Thomas. Louis L "''^
Thomas. Martin V ♦S''
Thomson, Peter "8(1
Tomer, George 341
Tompkins, Charles W "^84
Townsend, Homer C fi'''-
Tozer, Charles W 33P
Tozer, Roy S 'j38
Traeger, Henry G 491
Traut. Mrs. Catherine L 659
Trewhitt, W L) "'^^
Tulare Home Telephone and Tele-
graph Company 376
Turner, Jesse T 668
Turner, Lucius H 622
Tyler, John D 250
Twaddle, Thomas B 404
u
Unger, William 576
V
Vail Brothers 863
Vaughan, William T 313
Vaughn, David A 471
Visalia Plumbing and Sheet Metal
Company . - 309
w
Waddell, George E 242
Walker, John E 6S1
Walker, John and Serepta f"S6
Walker, WiUiani G 0S4
Ward. Harvey L 826
Warner, Erastus F 623
Warren. Isaac H 889
Webb. Octavius H >-6
Weddle, Ethelbert S 608
Weddle, M. E T62
Wegman, George J 442
Weigle. Martin L 579
Wells. James M 888
Wells, Morgan J 599
Wendling, G. X 375
West. Joshua E 889
West. William B 662
Wheeler, Alexander W 646
Whitaker, William .. 634
White, Capt. Harrison 301
Whittington, William, M D 712
Williams, Alpheus C 627
Williams, George W 450
Williams, Joel W 585
Williams, John W 743
Williams, William A 828
Wilson, Henr> L 713
Wilson, John A 851
Wilson. Osborne L 612
Wirht. Martin 834
Wood, Daniel 751
Wood, George 477
Woodard, Homer D 577
Woods, A. J.. 526
Wookey, Sidney H 636
Work, Enoch 507
Wray, George U 563
.Wright, Harland E 330
Wright, Isaac N 351
Wright, James W 500
•Y
Young, J. N .' 887
Z
Zumwalt. Daniel K 401
HISTORICAL
CHAPTER 1.
IXTRODrCTORY TO HISTORY OF TULARE COUNTY
By Eugene L. Meuefce.
A preaclier and a teacher, it appears, curiously enough were the
two first wliite leaders to enter what is now Tulare county. Each
bore the name of Smith. Jedediah S. Smith, the preacher, arrived
in 1825 or '26, accompanied by about fifteen trappers, he being the
first white man to cross the Sierra Nevada mountains. Entry to the
valley was made via the Tejou pass. Thousands of naked Indians
were seen. Tulare lake was observed and successful trai)ping for
beaver was conducted along the upjier reaches of the Kings, San
Joaquin and Sacramento rivers. In 1827 Smith made a return tr\p,
entering through Walker's pass.
It s-hould be understood that Jed was not an ordained minister,
but being a strong and aggressive Christian, he endeavored to con-
vert to that faith the reckless and lawless men who joined his band.
Bible readings, prayers, exhortations mingled with reproofs were
features of each day, no matter how wearisome had been the march.
It is said, however, that h.is efforts at reform were not entirely suc-
cessfuk
"Pegleg" Smith, the teacher, visited our vicinity in 1830, and
was eminently successful. "Pegleg" did not hold a degree nor even
a certificate. He was a horse-thief by profession and he took ujt
quarters among the Indians, establishing friendly relations with
them and thus obtained a place of refuge and a rendezvous for the
round-up of stolen stock when ready to proceed on the return .journey
to the Santa Fe country. In return for the hospitality extended liim,
Mr. Smith allowed some of the Indians to accompany him on raids
to the ranchos of the coast and taught them all the elements of appro-
priation. Due, no doubt, to Mr. Smith's ability as an educator,
these lessons were not forgotten and the practices inculcated by him
were so persistently followed that in the course of time the Indians
gained the merited title of "the horse-thieves of the Tulare."
One of Pegieg's party met a tragic fate. Missed from camp
on Kern river, near the site of the present Keyesville, lie was found
dead alongside the carcass of a huge grizzly, his body mutilated ami
his head crushed. There had evidently been a deadly fight in wliidi
both contestants had succum1)ed. The rude wooden cross wliirli
6 TULARP] AND KIXGS COUNTIES
marked his lonely .urave still stood in 185(), when the Kern river gold
rush took place.
Closely followinii- Jedediah Smith came Ewiug Young and party,
who started trapping in the San Joaquin valley in 1831, finding
beaver plentiful. Young hunted in the vicinity of Tulare lake for a
short time and then took his way northward. During the next
decade several other groups of trappers passed through the San
Joaquin valley. Between the Tulare valley and the Calaveras river
there was at that time an estimated Indian population of 20,000.
For any accurate knowledge of the county as it existed then we
must await the coming, in 1846, of John C. Fremont, an account of
which will be given in a later chapter.
History — human history — began to l)e recorded in what is now
Tulare county at a time long prior to the events just related.
So remote is this date that we of the present day can scarcely
hazard even a guess as to the number of centuries that have elajtsed
since this civilization flourished. Probably it existed co-eval with
that of the mound builders of the Mississippi — with that of the cliff
dwellers of Arizona. It is probable that at that time the waters of
the Pacific filled the valley of the San Joaquin so that the area of
our county was once smaller than it is now. These surmises are based
on the fact that in numerous places throughout the Sierra Nevada
mountains are found picture writings of the origin of which our
latter day Indians have not even a tradition. They cannot interpret
them, nor do they possess any knowledge of the art of making the
indestructible paints used.
On a bluff near the railroad bridge across the Kaweah at Lemon
Cove, at Rocky Hill, near Exeter, in Stokes valley, at "Woodlake, at
Dillon's point, at Hospital Rock on the middle fork of the Kaweah,
some thirteen miles above Three Rivers and in many other places
these pictures are found.
In several instances the arrangement of the figures is in columns.
This would seem to indicate that they are tribal or genealogical rec-
ords. Swords and spears, weapons absolutely unknown to present-
day Indians, are among the objects represented. Others are bears,
birds, pine trees, man, the sun, a fire, circles, crosses, etc. Up to the
present time no key has been found to these hieroghi:)hics. A fac-
simile of the paintings on Hospital Rock has been sent to the Smith-
sonian Institution at Washington, but as yet the learned men there
have been unable to decipher the record. As the fund of knowledge
regarding the sign-writing of all tribes throughout the world is con-
stantly increasing, as they are studied and compared and grouped in
systems, and certain meanings definitely established, it is not improb-
able that at some future time the first chapters of Tulare county's
history may yet lie translated into English. Even so, then would
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 7
elapse a ])eriod of thousands of years without a line. No tradition
existed here among the Indians as to any migration or separation
from anotlier tribe. They believed themselves to be aborigines. Yet
there were trails known to them by whieli the Sierras could l)e
crossed.
No reports from the passing bands of trappers hastened the
coming of settlers. With them a country was good or bad according
as many valuable pelts could or could not be there obtained, and no
note was taken of its adaptability for agriculture. Neither was it by
the accounts set forth by Fremont, which were meager and of a
scientific nature.
The fact was that in the '49 rush to the gold fields of California
many trains came by the southern route and passed through the Four
Creeks country, as this section was then called. Out of a desert they
came, and pursuing their way northward, back into what was then
almost a desert they went. We can well imagine their delight at the
sight of the vast, oak-forested delta covered with knee-high grasses.
We can imagine, too, their chafing at the delay here occasioned by
the necessity of getting their animals in condition to proceed farther.
All were keenly anxious to reach the foot of the rainbow. And when,
after toil and trouble, hardship, misfortune and ill-luck, they failed
to find it, we can imagine them as keenly anxious to return to the
delightful land they had left.
The first to really settle thei'e was a trader named Woods, who with a
party of about fifteen men arrived in Deceml)er of 1850. This party
came, from Mariposa and was well equipped with saddle and pack ani-
mals, arms, implements of building, etc. They located on the south
bank of the Kaweah river, about seven miles east of Visalia, where
they built a substantial log house. Of the fate of this party accounts
vary somewhat. The accepted version is that in the spring of '51, an
Indian bearing the name of Francisco, speaking some Spanish, and
probably one of the renegades from the ranclios of the coast, with
a number of Kaweahs, of whom he appeared to be chief, ordered the
settlers to leave that section of the country within ten days, with
the alternative of death if they remained beyond the allotted time.
The settlers agreed to go and made preparations for their departure,
burying the provisions and such farming implements as they pos-
sessed and proceeded to gather their stock. While thus engaged the
tenth day passed, and the Indians returned to fulfill their threat.
Ten of the .settlers were killed while hunting their stock, two made
their escape, one of whom was wounded.
The savages then approached the house in which was AVoods and
another. They professed friendshiii, and thus removed the appre-
hensions of their victims, wlio were unconscious of the fate of their
fellows. One of the whites was asked to hold uii a target tliat the
8 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
Indians might exhibit their skill with the bow and arrow; he com-
plied, whereupon the treacherous Kaweahs turned their aim upon
him and quickly shot him to death. Woods fled to the cabin and
fastened the door. This the savages attacked with great fury, but it
was strong and resisted their assaults. Woods had a single rifle and
a short supply of ammunition, and with this he attempted to defend
himself. Of all this we have the reports of Indians only, as from the
time the two escaped none other was left to tell the story of the
treacliery and the tragedy. The entrapped man determined to sell
his life as dearly as possible. As opportunity olfered he fired through
the apertures of the logs and with deadly effect, as during the contest
seven of the Indians were killed. At last the scanty ammunition was
exhausted, and the despairing condition of the helplessness overcame
the brave Woods. The assailants, finding their prisoner no longer
able to do them harm, renewed their efforts on the door, until it at
last gave way and the enemy was in their power. Woods had made
a brave defense, had slayed and wounded many of their number and
a revenge in consonance with the Indian spirit was determined upon.
This was nothing less than flaying him alive. The doomed man was
bound down and while defying his torturers, his skin was taken from
his body and afterwards nailed to an oak tree.
According to Stephen Barton the cause of the outbreak as given
by the Indians was that Indians from the north sought the aid of the
Kaweahs as allies, representing that the whites were seizing their
country and driving them out. AYhen the tribes of this valley
declined to assist the visitors, these made war upon them and cap-
tured many of their women. The majority of. them fled to the hills,
the few remaining slaughtering the Woods party. Other accounts
are that from seven hundred to one thousand Indians took part in the
butchery.
A party headed by a man named Lane arrived within a day or
so after the massacre and rescued a woimded man, whose name
was Boden, and carried him Itack with them to Mariposa, where he
recovered. To C. E. Wingfield, Boden gave a detailed account of the
fight at the Woods cabin.
A report of the massacre was taken to Fort Miller, on the San
Joaquin river, and a detachment of troops in command of General
Patten marched to the scene. The log house stood intact and evi-
dence of the l)rave defense, the massacre and the butchery remained.
What was left of the bodies was buried and work was commenced on
the construction of a fort about half a mile from the Woods cabin,
but before its completion the troops were withdrawn.
The above story is essentially as given by Stephen Barton in
Ms early history of Tulare county, his data being obtained from
several of the first settlers. In tlie issue of the Visalia Sun dated
TULAEE AND KINGS COUXTIES :»
September 5, 1860, Abraham Ililliard, wbo arrived iu the spriug of '54
and lived for three months in the Woods cabin, gives practically the
same version, placing the date of the massacre, however, as Decem-
ber 13, 1850.
Gilliert 'SI. L. Dean, wlio arrived in the Four Creeks country
when a lad about twelve years of age, states that his father's family
came from Texas in a party conducted by Nat Vise. Both the Vise
and Dean families remained for a time at Los Angeles, and Vise,
taking young Dean with him, left for the northern country, traveling
on horseback, and with a pack outfit. They remained a few days
near the Kaweah. Vise decided to push onward to the mines and
left the Dean boy with Loomis St. John (for whom the St. John
river was afterwards named), who then had a cabin near the river,
about a half mile from that afterwards constructed l)y the AVoods
party. Thus the general belief that the latter structure was the
first permanent habitation erected by white men within the present
limits of Tulare county is disputed by Dean, who was living in St.
John's cabin when the Woods ]iarty arrived to estalilish their settle-
ment.
St. John and his young companion, who were glad to have neigh-
bors of their own race, went over one day where they had before
seen Woods and his men felling trees and building their house. They
were surprised to hear no wood-chopping or other noise when they
approached, and when near the cabin, which was almost completed,
they were horrified to see the body of a man lying on the ground.
The skin had been removed and was fastened to the bark of a large
oak tree hard by on the bank of the stream. They were unable to
find any other member of the ])arty, alive or dead, and saw no
Indians.
Soldiers and others arrived within a day or two, among them
being some of the men who had been with Woods. They stated that
Woods had gone to the cabin to prepare dinner or had remained
there after breakfast and was attacked by the Indians when alone at
the cabin. The others heard the firing of AVoods' gun and the shout-
ing of the Indians, and being unarmed or poorly armed and unable
to reach the cabin to assist AVoods, they hid their axes and mauls and
saved themselves by flight.
Dean says he never heard of any other person than AVoods having
been killed at that time, but does not remember to have heard
whether any of the survivoi's were wounded or molested by the
Indians. The AVoods cabin was used for a schoolliouse aftei-wards,
and Dean and his brother attended school there later, when, after his
return to Los Angeles, the Dean family came to the Kaweah settle-
ment to reside ]jermanently. Dean was therefore at this ])lace as a
pupil in the first scliool in Tulare county and lie still has a vivid
10 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
recollection of the locality. When visiting the place, with others, a
few years ago he at once recognized the tree on which Woods' skin
was hung by the Indians and pointed out the location of the house
and about the spot where Woods' body lay, and an involuntary
shudder was noticed to pass through the old gentleman's frame as
he stood there. Although the oldest resident of Tvilare county, the
pioneer of Tulare pioneers, he is still vigorous, retains all his faculties
perfectly and remembers distinctly the principal events of that early
time, many of which he participated in.
Apparently unterrified by the fate of the Woods party, settlers
and traders continued to straggle iu. In the fall of 1851, C. R. Wing-
field and A. A. Wingfield arrived from Mari])osa. On the way they
met two men named McKenzie and Ridley, who had been trading
with the Indians for several \ears and who were somewhere in tl.ie
neighborhood when the AVoods party was slain. A bi-idge had been
built across the Kaweah near the Woods cabin, l)ut lliere was no
settlement. The Wingfields settled near the (abiii, laying claim to
the land from the river southward. They found the Indians friendly
and sociable, and although their outfit was Avitliin the reach of hun-
dreds of this people and contained a multii)licity of small articles,
yet they never missed so much as a needle.
In December of the same year, Nathaniel and Abner \'ise came
to what is now Alsalia and built a log cabin on the north bank of Mill
creek. On the site of the camjis of tliese two pairs of brothers were
afterwards built the two towns that contended for the honor of ])eing
the seat of justice of Tulare county. These two pairs of brothers,
between whose camps were seven miles of almost unbroken jungle,
appear to have been the only settlers in the country with a fixed
domicile. They were unknown to each other and ignorant of the
other's whereabouts.
The state legislature was in session. Many first-chiss politicians
at Mariposa were either out of a job or ])0vssessed of one the emolu-
ments of which were not satisfactory. These events and conditions
would not have interested either the brothers Vise or the Wingfields.
Yet so interwoven are the strands of destiny that life or death to the
W^ingfields was later to depend on the activity of the Mariposa schem-
ers and their "])uH" with the legislators. It was at the behest of
this horde of hungry office-seekers that the legislature passed an act
and the same was approved April "20, 1852, as follows:
"The county of Mariposa is hereby subdivided as follows: Be-
ginning at the summit of the coast range, at the corner of Monterey
and San Luis Obispo counties; thence running in a northeasterly
direction to the ridge dividing the waters of the San Joaquin and
Kings rivers; thence along the ridge to the summit of the Sierra;
thence in the same direction to the state line: thence southeasterlv
TULAEE AND KIX(J8 COUNTIES 11
alono- said line to the eouuty of Los Angeles; tlience soutliwesterly
along' the line of Los Angeles county to Santa Barbara ; thence along
the summit of the coast range to the point of beginning.
"The southern portion of Mariposa county so cut otT, shall be
called Tulare county. The seat of justice shall be at the log cabin on
the south .side of Kaweah creek, near the bridge built by Dr. Thomas
Payne, and shall be calied Woodsville, until changed by the people as
provided by law.
"During the second week of July next there shall be chosen for
Tulare county one count. \- ,iudge. one county attorney, one county
clerk, one recorder, one sheriff, one county surveyor, one assessor, one
coroner and one treasurer.
"The county judge chosen under this act shall hold his office for
two years from next October, and until his successor is elected and
(|ualified. The other officers elected shall hold their respective offices
for one year, and until their successors are elected and qualified.
The successors of the officers elected under this act shall be chosen at
the general elections established by law, which take place next pre-
cedinii' the expiration of their respective terms."
James D. Savage, M. P.. Lewis, John Boling and "W. H. McMillen
were a])p()inted commissioners to carry out the law and conduct the
election.
The iirime mover in this scheme to form a new coimty was
William II. Harvey. He and his associates knew of the massacre of
the Woods party and. fully expecting to have to fight their way to
the P^ur Creeks, placed the expedition muler the command of Major
James D. Savage.
Orlando Barton says: "Major Savage's party as it left Mari-
posa was composed mostly of men on horseback. Many men with
families prei)ared to follow with teams. The first general rendezvous
was on Grand Island. A settlement was already forming on Kings
river. I ha\e heard it stated that the office-seekers from Mariposa
liired enough Whigs to come with them to outvote the Democrats on
Arkansas Flat. On tJrand Island, July 8th, the commissioners held
their first meeting. They ordered an election to be held on July 10,
1852, and a])i)ointed William J. Campbell to act as the inspector at
Poole's Ferry and William Dill to act as inspector at Woodsville.
These were the only precincts established. All the wagons with the
women and children stayed on Grand Island, while Major Savage
marshaled the fighting men for the advance on Four Creeks.
' ' Including the board of commissioners they were fifty-two strong
and on the morning of July 9th they started from Poole's Ferry to
cross the jilains. It lacked about an hour and a half of sundown when
they arrived in the outskirts of the timber at the foot of Venice hills.
Here they saw hostile Indians. Major Savage's ]iarty rode along the
12 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
southwest side of tlie Veuic-e hills, tiriiio- right and left at every ludiau
they saw.
RESCUE OF THE WIXGFIELDS
"On the inorniug of July 8, 1852, three hundred armed Indians
came to the "Wing-field brothers' camp and took them and an Indian boy
who was with them prisoners, and marched them across the Kaweah
and St. John rivers. Near the north bank of the St. John, the Indians
tied the Wingfield brothers and their companion hand and foot and
laid them on the ground. The Wiugfields were kept in this place all
one day and the succeeding night. The 9th of July was hot and sultry.
The Indians were morose and sulky. They stayed at a distance from
the Wingfields and talked only to themselves. Neither the Wingfields
nor their companion could understand the cause of their imprison-
ment. They knew nothing of the advance of Major Savage's party.
They did not know that their captors constituted one of the forces
sent to hold tlie fords of the St. John against the men fi'om Mariposa.
"If I were a novelist I would now tell what the Wingfield broth-
ers thought at this crisis in their lives. I would tell how they were
tormented by swarms of flies, armies of ants, and cold lizards with
poisonous fangs. But as I am only an historian I can tell only what I
know. Charley Wingfield said that he did not know what was to
become of them. The fate of Woods was fresh in their minds and we
may reasonably be permitted to guess that they expected to be
skinned.
"The sun was about an hour high in the west when an Indian
came running around the southernmost of the Venice hills holding one
of his arms straiglit ixp in the air. His arm, which was covered with
blood, was shot through with a bullet. Some of the Indians who were
guarding the Wingfields ran forward to meet him. A short palaver
was held. Then three or four of them went to the |)lace where the
Wiugfields were tied down. They untied them and then all the In-
dians suddenly disappeared.
"The Wingfields went to the vWev and after swimming it, were
climbing up on its south bank, when they saw Major Savage's party
coming around the point of the hill from the direction of ]\[ount View
Park. The Wingfields re-crossed the i-iver and joined the party.
THE ELECTION
"As soon as ]\Iajor Savage's party arrived, the couuuissioners
commenced to prepare for the election. For this purpose they selected
the tree that stood farthest out on the open ground. This was done
so that they could get the benefit of any breeze that might be blowing.
There has been recently a sign placed on this tree and any person can
find it. It stands about half way between the Tulare Irrigation com-
pany's flume and the Southern Pacific railroad bridge across the St.
John river. The jiioneers occupied the ground between the election
TULARE AND KIXUS COUNTIES 13
tree and the river, and utilized the shade of several other trees. Mes-
sengers were sent back to Poole's ferry and night found the Mariposa
adventurers in possession of the camp that the captors of the Wing-
tields had so recently occupied."
The poll list of the AVoodsville precinct was as follows: Augustus
John, S. D. F. Edwards, Early Lyon, Martin Morris, J. B. Marsh,
John A. Patterson, T. Hale, Richard Matthews, J. M. Snockters, R.
P. Cardwell, S. P. Carter, C. Keener, Benj. Mettors, A. B. Gordon,
J. M. Jackson, Henry Crowell, Wni. B. Hobbs, John Eeefe, Clark
Royster, S. M. Brown, J. G. Morris, P. F. Hesberp, B. B. Harris,
A. H. Corbitt, L. B. Lewis, William Pedersen, W. C. McDougal,
George H. Rhodes, Joseph A. Tivy, W. H. Howard, Charles J. Jones,
Isaac McDonald, Joshua Sledd, W. H. Erving, James D. Savage,
Robert F. Parks, J. L. Avenill, William Dougle, W. W. McMillen,
William Dill, Penny Douglas, George H. Rogers, L. St. John, James
Wate, A. J. Lawrence, Thomas MeCormick, B. B. Overton, James
Davis, A. A. Wingfield, R. Schuffler, A. M. Cameron. C. E. Wingfield
voted at Poole's ferry, as did Nathaniel Vise.
In looking over this poll list the observer is at once struck witJi
the infrequency of well-known names of early pioneers. This wa<
Ijecause there were few bona fide settlers in the settlement.
After the election the commissioners remained in camp, received
the returns from Poole's ferry and canvass'ed the entire vote. The
following officers were elected: for county judge, Walter H. Harvey;
coimty attorney, F. H. Sanford; county clerk, E. D. F. Edwards;
recorder, A. B. Gordon; sherii¥, William Dill; surveyor, Joseph A.
Tivy; assessor, James B. Davis; coroner, W. W. McMillen; treasurer,
L. C. Frankenberger.
On July 12th, the county officers took the oath of office and tlie
county seat remained for some time under the election tree, although
most of the county officers returned shortly to Mariposa.
Edwards, the county clerk, was killed in a quarrel with a man
named Boli Collins, shortly after his arrival in Mariposa, and soon
afterwards Major Savage was killed by Judge Plarvey. Franken-
berger. in a fit of delirium tremens, wandered ofP into the swamp and
died. Later in the season. Dr. Everett was engaged in gambling at
Woodsville with a man named Ball and a dispute arose about $;!.
Everett asked Ball if he was armed. Ball replied that he was not,
whereupon Everett commanded him to go and arm himself. Ball said
that he would and started for his camp. Everett said he would go
with him and see that he did it, pulling out his pistol at the same
time. Ball then told him that the best way was to leave the matter
till another day and it would probably be settled. "No," said Ever-
ett, "one of us must die now." Ball stooped over and carelessly
rubl)ed his leg, saving, "If I must light, I shall fight for blood," and
14 TULARE AND KIXGS COUNTIES
at the same time suddenly lifting his pantaloons and drawing a
revolver from his boot, shot Everett dead without drawing the pistol
from its scabbard. Ball was examined before a justice of the peace
and discharged. W. J. Campbell and Loomis St. John were justices
of the peace and they, acting as associate judges with the county
judge, constituted the court of sessions by which county affairs were
administered.
At the first meeting of the court of sessions held October 4, 1852,
Judge Harvey presiding, a license for a ferry on Kings river and
for a toll bridge at the Kaweah was granted. Thomas McCormick
was appointed assessor to succeed Everett, and P. A. Rainholt was
named to succeed J. C. J'raukenberger. An election proclamation
was issued for the general election to be held on tlie first Tuesday
of November, 1852, for county and state officers and for ]n'esidential
electors. Bona fide settlers had now commenced to arrive. Among
the first were S. C. Brown, A. H. Murray and family, three Matthews
families, three Glenn families. Colonel Baker and family, Bob Stev-
enson and family, Abraham Hilliard and family, 0. K. Smith, Samuel
Jennings, Tom Willis, Tom Baker, G. F. Ship, J. C. Reed, John
Cutler, Nathan Dillon and Edgar Reynolds.
Nat Vise induced most of these parties to accompany him to
the neighborhood of his claim, where they could, he said, find better
land. They were pleased with this locality and got Vise to release
his title to the claim he had first taken up, with a view to laying out a
town and having it become the county seat. For protection against
Indians a stockade was built large enough to hold the wagons and
supplies and several log houses. This fort was situated on ground
now bounded by School, Bridge, Oak and Garden streets, and was
constructed by setting puncheons upright in a ditch about three feet
deep. An extension of about four feet was made at each corner
which permitted a raking fire on the side to be directed against an
attacking party, should an attempt be made 'to climb over.
The naming of the new settlement appeared to be the occasion
of some dispute. The majority of the citizens favored naming it
after its founder, Nathaniel Vise, l)ut the board of supervisors desig-
nated it Buena Vista. The word Visalia first appears in the record
of the court of sessions in August, 1853, when an order was entered
dividing the county -into townships. Woodsville and Visalia town-
ships were divided l\v a line running north and south from the cross-
ing of Canoe creek.
Its derivation is believed l)y some to be from Vise and Sally or
Salia, the name of V'ise's wife. Others believe it to be a combination
of A'ise with Sa-ha-la, the Indian name for sweat house, and still
others tliink it merely the termination "alia," as in ^'andalia, Cen-
tialia. etc., clioscii on account of its pleasing sound.
TULARE AND KIXCIS COUNTIES 15
In Octol)er of 1853 was held the first session of the board of
supervisors. Town lots were parceled out and the record shows the
entry, "Ordered that the seat of justice be Bueua Vista." In the
records of the court of sessions for Feliruary, 1854, the name Bueua
Vista appeared for tlie last time, all subsequent proceedings being
dated Visalia. On the 11th of March, 1854, the board of supervisors
entered an order granting the prayer of certain petitioners that the
name of the seat of justice be Visalia. So much concerns the dispute
over the name. The election by which the transfer of the seat of
justice from Woodsville was effected was held in 1853. Judge Cutler
was the champion of Woodsville and Judge Thomas Baker of Visalia.
The vote was very close and bribery and corruption were alleged to
have been used. The friends of AVoodsville charged that the result
in favor of Visalia was from the bribery of two or three voters and
there was at least one notable ea.se where one man obtained an eligible
location a half mile south of the site of Visalia and that he thus
seemed to desert his Woodsville friends.
Although Baker carried the day in respect to his choice of county
seat, he was defeated for judge, as Cutler proved far the more pop-
ular. There was constructed a sort of courthouse of rough boards
affording an enclosure and a shelter and records were kept on scra]is
of paper and deposited in a wooden box. Much of the proceedings
and accounts were kept in memory.
At the session of the board of supervisors in March, 1854, many
town lots were sold and an order was entered for building a jail
sixteen feet in the clear inside and ten feet between floors. The
building to be two stories high, to be built of hewed logs eight inches
square, dove-tailed and pinned at the corners; the wall to be double
with a space between six inches wide, to be tilled with In-okeu rock.
The floor was to be of logs of similar size, planked, and the i)lanking
to be held down by "double tens," one nail in every superficial inch.
This order was to l)e published in a Mariposa newspaper. Although
this was the first jail and courthouse in the new county, it was not
built in time to accommodate the first prisoners or to furnish a place
in which to hold the first trial.
The first arrest in the county was that of Judge Harvey for
the killing of Major Savage, but nothing came of it. As prcxionsly
related. Ball was acquitted for the killing of Everett, 'i'lie first
case tried in the county was before a justice of the peace. It was
that of a young Indian charged with shooting an arrow into a
wbrk-ox whereby the animal was more or less disabled. At this
time few persons had allowed themselves to think of a lighter
punishment for an Indian than that of summary execution. All
concurred in the ojiinion that such miscliief should not be toler-
ated. The mass of the Indians wei-e disposeil to be fiiendly. but
16 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
were not disposed to take the same view of the necessity of
adopting a more severe penalty for the Indians than was meted
out to whites for simihir offenses. The chief was anxious to
preserve peace and volunteered his services to aid in the arrest
of the culprit. The officers deputized to make the arrest were
C. E. Wing-field and Jim Hale. They, in company with the chief,
went to Cottonwood creek, near Elder Springs (Woodlake). Here
the old chief suggested the plan of having the officers remain
under a tree wliile he should go and make the arrest.
Among these Indians the province of a chief is to advise
rather than command, and the old chief perhaps regarded it as
uncertain whether the young men of the camp would acquiesce
in the surrender until they knew what the character of the ^nm-
ishment would be. The chief's pony was well jaded and Wing-
field suggested an exchange of horses. After the officers had
remained under the trees until they began to grow impatient,
they saw two or three Indians on foot approaching from a dis-
tance. They came up and sullenly seated themselves under the
tree. Soon after three or four more appeared. They were bounti-
fully supplied with bows and arrows and Wingfield made the
comment that they were going to l)e able to make an arrest quite
beyond the scope of their original purpose. He saw no other
plan, however, than that of awaiting the return of his horse.
Soon tlie chief made his appearance with the prisoner, followed
by aliout forty Indians fully equipped for war.
When they came up, the officers, assuming a ))old front in
an unpleasant emergency, took the prisoner in charge and started
for camp, a distance of about ten miles. Arriving there the pro-
cession halted in front of the office of the justice of the peace,
i.e., under the election tree. The Indians were resolved to allow
no punishment which they did not sanction to be inflicted. The
whites, of whom there were eighteen, were unaccustomed to brook
anything like insolence from an Indian without shooting him down,
and, having started in with the case, they saw no nutans of
retreat without feeling a loss of dignity.
Such an astounding capture, though unexpected, was fully
comprehended and both parties were well assured that the first
display of force on either side until the matter was arranged
would lead to indiscriminate slaughter. For two days and two
nights the matter was angrily discussed and finally the Indians
submitted to having the ease tried in the white man's way. The
evidence on both sides was heard, and a judgment rendered that
the accused Indian pay a fine of fifty buckskins to the owner of
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 17
the ox. The Indians accepted this verdict as being perfectly just,
the fine was at once paid and good feeling re-established.
In the new settlement, by the close of '53 and the beginning
of '54. many enterprises had been undertaken and much activity
along many different lines manifested. Warren Matthews was
building a millrace and a gristmill, using largely Indian labor.
Nathan Baker had opened a store; a man named Ketchem started
a saloon; many settlers made the trip to Stockton for seed, im-
plements and provisions. A school was started with about half a
dozen scholars. Children had been born, Commodore Murray being
the first and "Sieb" Stevenson the second. 0. K. Smith i)ut up
a sawmill for cutting oak timber, about half a mile east of Visalia.
But we will pause here in the narration of historical events,
while we have the opportunity, to survey the conditions in which
the settlers found themselves. In 1853 the Williamson topograph-
ical survey party, in search of a railroad route through the in-
terior of California, passed through this valle>-. The impressions
of mineralogist William B. Blake, set down at the time, are so
vivid and interesting that they are reproduced here.
"Kings river to the Four Creeks, Aug. 1, 40.4 miles: Left
camp on the borders of Kings river and travelled along its right
bank to Poole's ferry, twelve miles lielow.
"From the banks of the river at this ferry, there is nothing
to obstruct the vision across the whole breadth of the Tulare
valley, and the coast mountains may be dimly seen rising above
the limits of the far-stretching plains. The Sierra Nevadas also
present a magnificent s]iectacle from this place. The chain ap-
pears to reach a great altitude and to rise abruptly from the
surrounding subordinate ridge. The outlines of the distant chain
were sharply defined and the prominent peaks showed out boldl\-
against the clear blue sky. Snow was resting on the summits in
liroad white fields that glistened under the rays of an unclouded
sun and by its rapid melting kept the rivers well supplied with
water.
"From Kings river to the Four Creeks the surface of the
ground shows but few undulations and may be considered as
nearly level. The soil contains a large proportion of clay and
must necessarily become soft and miry during the rainy season.
Al)out three miles northward of Elbow creek a large area of
surface is composed almost wholly of clay without any admixture
of sand or gravel and has evidently been nearly fluid in llie wet
season. This was shown by the deep tracks of animals in the
then hard, sun-baked surface, and by great numbers of skeletons
of cattle that have sunk in the deep, thick mud and been left
18 ■ TULAEE AND KINGS C(:)UNTIP:]S
there to die of starvatiou. Tlieir whitened bones stood upright
in the clay like posts aronnd a grave. The drying nj) of this
clayey ground has produced deep shrinkage cracks and fissures
similar to those observed in the rich soils around the bay of
San Francisco.
"Four Creeks: From the level of the arid and treeless plain
(what is now our richly productive tree and vine covered Alta
district) bounded on the west by equally barren mountains, we
made a sudden descent of about ten feet to the bottom land of
Four Creeks. Here the aspect of the landscape suddenly changed.
Instead of the brown, parched surface of gravel, to which the eye
is accustomed on the surrounding plains, we find the ground hid-
den from view by a luxuriant growth of grass and the air fi-agrant
with the perfume of flowers. The sound of flowing brooks and
the notes of the wild birds greet the ear in strange contrast with the
rattle produced by the hot wind as it sweeps over the dried weeds
and gravel of the plain.
"The whole scene is overshadowed by groves of majestic oaks
and the eye can wander down long avenues of trees until lost in
the shadows of their foliage. This scene of natural beauty is the
result of natural irrigation, the ground being abundantly watered
by the Pi-piyuna river, which supplies the water that forms the
Four Creeks * * * In fact, a broad delta is here formed between
the Tulare lake and the mountains, and the profuse vegetation
may not only be referred to the presence of water, but to the
fertility of the soil, which is alluvial and is frequently enriched
by overflows of the creeks."
Yisalia at this time was practically situated in a jungle sur-
rounded by a swamp. On the plains beyond and in the more open
portions of the oak forest, deer, elk and antelope abounded. Here,
too, were numerous bands of wild horses.
Capt. Thomas H. Thompson, in his history of Tulare county thus
graphically speaks of these: "The region, too, as early as the summer
of 1850, had been visited by large numbers in the pursuit of wild
horses, these being in droves of thousands on the plains and about the
lake. Westward but a short distance were the great ranchos of
the Spanish period and from these the Indians had driven large
bands of horses which became wild on the plains and increased in
vast numbers. These animals in their wild freedom, their grace and
beauty, their long flowing manes and tails, their speed and numbers,
had attracted the attention and won the admiration of the immigrant
of 1849, as he, with feeble ox or wornout mule, passed from the
southern deserts through the valley on his painful journey to the
mines farther north. He was fascinated with the beautiful and
I
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES i<)
romantic sight, as great troops of the fat and glossy animals gal-
loped past. Many of these immigrants and many other adventurous
spirits returned the following year in the hope of wealth by captur-
ing the wild horses of the Tulare plains. Large corrals of brush and
fence and tule with branching wings were constructed, i^its were
excavated and other devices were essayed; fleet horses witli skillful
riders with lassos were employed, and all the efforts possil)le were
made to capture the wild horses. Many were taken, a comparative
few were tamed and sulxlued to use; great numbers were killed, and
so vigorous was the onslaught that but a year or two elapsed when
the wild horse was a rarity in the valley. They were beautiful
animals, and in numbers a grand sight in their wild state, but when
captured difficult to tame, always dangerous to handle, skittish and
nervous, retaining during life their wild and untamable spirit. At
least, such is the experience the writer of this had with the wild
horses from the Tulare in 1850."
20 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER II
INDIAN WAR OF '56
lu tlie o-rowtli of the settlement Indians materially aided. They
were docile, friendly, willing to work and were employed in taking-
care of stock and in farm and household work. And yet in 1856 the
settlers had trouble with them of so serious a nature as to develop
into what lias been called the "Indian War."
For an account of this we are principally indebted to Stephen
Barton, writing in 1874, when the principal actors in the drama were
still alive and he had every opportunity to obtain an accurate version
of the matter. Additional facts secured ■ through the researches of
George W. Stewart in 1884, are linked in with the narrative which
we present here.
In the spring of this year there came a rumor that a large band
of cattle on Tule river had been stolen by Indians and driven off.
Without investigation hurried preparations for war were at once
begun. Scores of young bloods were ready to spring to the service
of their country at once. Now, the Indians were generally employed
by the settlers in farm work of all kinds, in the care of stock and as
household servants, and were proving themselves honest and trust-
worthy. Therefore, a few of the settlers conceived the idea of hear-
ing both sides of the story and inquired of the Indians what they
knew of the stealing, and were soon astonished to find that as a
matter of fact, no cattle had been stolen. The Indians said a young-
man by the name of Packwood had niarried an Indian girl and that
according to their custom her tribe had assembled for a feast. Pack-
wood contributed a yearling- calf taken from his father's herd.
Thus dwindled to almost nothing the rumor that five hundred cattle
had been stolen.
Nathan Dillon, ^Viley Watson, Mr. Kenney and several others,
feeling that it was an outrage to drive the Indians to the wall on
so slight a pretext, undertook to remonstrate. These men were among
the most high-minded and substantial citizens of the county, but
their arguments proved without avail. The tribe camped a milfe
below Visalia were ordered to surrender their arrows and to move
their camp u]> to the western edge of the town. A party of
mounted men Avent to the camp of the Yokos, near Exeter, and with
yells and shots dispersed the Indians there, who fled, terror-stricken,
to the swamps. A band of ruffians met one Indian on the road near
Outside Creek and killed him without provocation.
A crowd of lawless men in Visalia conceived the idea of be-
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES . 21
sieging a camp of a))Out forty unarmed and friendly Indians of all
ages and sexes, about two miles east of town, and of ))utting tiiem to
death by night. D. B. James and a few others, hearing of this
diabolical scheme, brought the Indians into town where they could
receive the protection of those averse to the shedding of innocent
blood.
Meantime, tlie tocsin of war continued to sound. Settlers and
miners from distant parts gathered and a military organization was
effected under the command of Captain Demasters. These prepara-
tions frightened the Indians and they fled to join their companions
on Tule river. The command of Demasters, numbering fifty or sixty
men, started in pursuit and the same day a jiarty of nine mounted
men followed the trail of a band of sixty Tejon Indians, who were
traveling southward in the direction of the White ri\er. Cai)taiu
Demasters' company, after reaching Tule river, continued up the
north fork several miles, where columns of smoke pointed out to
them the location of the camp. They found the Indians occupying
a strong position, which, to their surprise, was well fortified. The
location was admirably chosen, and the defences would have done
credit to an experienced military engineer. A line of breastworks
from two to four feet high, composed of boulders and brush, extended
a distance of eighty rods along the face of a hill at the head of a
little cove, or plain. Immediately in the front of the position the
ground was rough and broken, but to reach it it was necessary to
traverse the open plain mentioned, exposed to a fire from behind
the fortification. At either end, and in the rear of the defences,
was a dense thicket of chaparral extremely difficult to penetrate.
The position was defended by a force numl)ering in the neighltorhood
of seven hundred warriors.
Demasters, confident of the superiority of his men, small as
their numlsers were, ordered an attack. To protect themselves
against the arrows of the Indians while attempting a breach of this
enclosure, a portion of the troops had uniformed themselves in a
sort of petticoat made of duck, padded inside with cotton, 'i'he
petticoat brigade marched boldly to the fray, but their shields jjroved
more vulnerable than anticipated and the whites made a preci]iitate
retreat to a point about a mile distant to await re-enforcements.
The party of nine men previously spoken of, on the trail of
the Tejon Indians, kept in their saddles all day and niglit, and
about daylight on the following morning, near where the village of
Ducor is now situated, came upon the Indian cain]j. The dogs liegan
barking and one of the Indians, painted and decked with feathers,
stepped forward to a little knoll that commanded a view in all direc-
tions, to ascertain the cause of the disturl)auce. John W. Williams,
afterwaixls citv marshal of \'isalia for several years, directed the
22 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
man nearest bim, who bad a rifle, to sboot. Tbe Indian dropped
dead, and tbe Americans ebarged, firing- rapidly at tbe Indians, wbo
scattered precipitately, leaving five dead. AVilliams and party tben
rode back to Tule river to join tbe force under Demasters. It was
tbe supposition at tbe time that this party of Tejon Indians bad
been implicated in cattle stealing in Frazier valley, and bad gone on
a marauding expedition to White river to massacre the few whites
living along the stream; but nothing was lieard of tliem afterwards,
and as they had a few women with tliem, lliey were proliahly only
returning home to their own tribe.
When the party of whites rejoined the command under Demas-
ters, it was decided to dispatch Williams to Keyesville for assist-
ance. Williams set out immediately, going by way of Loom's valley,
Poso Flat and Greenhorn mountain. At Lynn's valley he changed
horses and William Lynn, after whom the valley was named, agreed
to accompany bim i)art of the way. During their ride, after dark,
through a heavily timbered region, where bears were plentiful, an
incident occurred that is worthy of note. After riding a short dis-
tance into the forest they lieard a noise behind, and turning, saw a
large, black animal following them. Williams was mounted on a
fractious mustang whicli liecame frightened and darted up the steep
movmtain side, luit floundered back into tbe trail. Soon they reached
a small opening and here they determined to try tbe effect of a
shot at the brute, which followed them persistently. hynn dis-
charged a load of buckshot and the bear fell at tbe first fire, greatly
to their relief.
Sixty miners from Keyesville armed themselves and accom-
panied Williams back. On tbe return the "bear" killed by Lynn
was found to be a large black mule owned by a settler. It took
$90 to square with the mule's owner, but that was tbe least of it.
For a long time afterwards tbe mere mention of "bear oil" was
sufficient to cause either Williams or Lynn to stand treat and before
tbe joke wore out it had cost them in tlie neighborhood of $500.
When tbe Keyesville })arty arrived tbe entire force, numbering
one hundred and forty, was jilaced under the command of W. G.
Poindexter, sheriff of the county, and a second assault made. During
this attack two young Americans, Danielson and St. John, were
severely wounded and one other, Thomas Falbert, was shot in
tbe thigh. "^I'bese were tbe only whites injured. The attack proved
futile and Poindexter ordered bis command to fall back. A jiortion
returned to "\^isalia, tbe remainder remaining encamped nearby
awaiting re-enforcements. Of tbe force which returned to Visalia
Stephen Barton says: "Now commenced one of the most disgrace-
ful scenes connected with the history of this valley. Having inglor-
iously fled from the field of battle, this force now soiigbt a cheap
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES -23
plan of retrieving a reputation for heroism by turning on those
citizens who had counseled moderation and fair dealing. Tlie A'isalia
Indians had been compelled to surrender tlieir arms and camp at
the edge of town. The same authority wliidi rccpiircd this now
required that those who opposed the war sliouhl, at the ])erii (if
their own lives, as well as of the lives of the Indians invoh-ed.
convey the Indians out of the settlement. Dillon, Watson, Keeney,
Judge Baker, the Matthews and several others were the men wlio
now found their lives imperiled by the fury of a lawless mob, for
no other reason than that of having used words of moderation during
a moment of popular frenzy. * * * Dillon gave $10 and a
thousand pounds of flour, the Matthews gave flour, and the otiier
parties named gave in proi^ortion and Jim Bell was hired to take
a heavy ox team and haul the ])oor outcasts to Kings river."
The "soldiers" left in camp occupied themselves in searching
out and destroying the caches of provisions which the Indians had
made at different points along the foothills. These were found
without difficulty, as they were usually placed in tlie forks of oak
trees and covered with thatch.
In a few days a company from Miilerton, under command of
Ira Stroud, and one from Coarse Gold Gulch under connnand of
John L. Hunt, arrived. From Fort Miller was sent a detachment
of twenty-five soldiers under Captain Livingston, bringing with
them a small howitzer; and from Fort Tejon half as many mounted
cavalry under the command of Alonzo Ridley, an Indian sub-agent.
Captain Livingston assumed the chief command of tlie force whicli
now numbered about four lumdred and comprised nearly all the
able-bodied men of the A^alley. After all had reached camp a con-
sultation was held and it was agreed to divide the command into
four divisions and attack the Indians at daybreak the following
morning, from the front, rear and both flanks. Parties were sent
out to view the country so that the several divisions might be
guided to their respective positions without confusion, and Captain
Livingston with his soldiers and about sixty volunteers ascended
an eminence commanding the Indian fortification in order to select
the most advantageous position for mounting their howitzer.
The Indians unexpectedly made a vigorous attack on tliis
party, precipitating the engagement. Livingston ordered a charge
and with his ofificers, led the men in. They forced their way through
the brush, at the same time firing upon the Indians, who I)ecame
demoralized and fled from their strong position into the mountains
where they had left tlieir women and children. The Americans con-
tinued the pursuit for several days but,' failing to discover another
camp or any large liody of Indians, retired to tlie valley. Several
dead braves were found inside the fortification and there was evi-
24 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
denee of many liaving beeu borne off througli the brush. This was
the last real engagement and the loss to the Indians in killed and
wounded from the first breaking out of hostilities was estimated
at alK)ut one hundred.
Although the whites posted detachments to prevent the Indians
from returning to the valley, several parties of mounted Indians
succeeded in reaching the plains at night and killed or dro\e oiT
quite a number of cattle. They also burned a few houses in the
foothills, and all but one along the Tule river and Deer creek,
thirteen in number, the owners having deserted them for the time
being. These raids continued for several weeks, until William Camp-
bell, the sub-agent at Kings river, sought the Indians out in the
mountains and found them willing to come to terms. The war had
lasted six weeks, when the Indians returned to the valley and they
have remained friendly from that time to the present day, although
a little more than a decade later, a few murders committed on
Tule river caused the government to send troops from San Francisco
and force the Indians of that section onto a reservation set apart
for them.
George Stewart says : ' ' Thus ended the Tule river war of
1856; a war that might have been prevented had there been an
honest desire on the part of the white settlers to do so, and one
that brought little glory to those who participated therein. Tlie
responsibility cannot now be fixed where it properly belongs. Pos-
sibly the Indians were to blame. Certainly the whites were not blame-
less, and it is too seldom, indeed, that they have been in the many
struggles with the aboriginal inhabitants of this continent."
The period between 1854 and the beginning of the Civil war
was chiefly remarkable for the discovery of gold and the mining
excitement and boom following, and for the Indian war of 1856.
D. B. and Brigham James made the first discovery of the
precious metal in 1853 at Kern river. A stampede followed in which
several thousand miners participated. Nearly all returned disap-
pointed. However, other discoveries at White river, Keyesville,
Owens river, in the Slate range and in the Coso district caused other
mining booms so that for some seven or eight years there was a
large population of miners, and the supplying of their wants became
an important feature of business.
Two trails were cut across the Sierra Nevada mountains over
which pack trains carrying supplies were sent. A wagon road was
also constructed from Yisalia through Keyesville to Lone Pine and
Fort Independence.
As early as 1858 there were three quartz mills in oiteration in
the Keni river district. Tliese, by the way, had a greater value
according to tlie assessor's figures than all the taxable real estate
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES 25
in the comity. A few years later several other stamp mills were
constructed to mill the ore of the Coso and Owens river districts
and the freighting of supplies became a business of great magnitude.
Unfortunately, while rich strikes were found in all these localities,
it appeared that the gold generally was found either in pockets or in
leads that "pinched out," and no permanent wealth ])rodueing canqis
resulted.
INDIAN TROUBLES IN OWENS EIVEK DISTKICT
The war of 1856, with its final engagement at Battle mountain,
settled completely all trouble with Indians in Tulare county proper,
or that portion lying on this side of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
For many years, however, sporadic trouble in the Owens river
valley caused much uneasiness to our people. At times these as-
sumed such magnitude that several troops of regular cavalry were
employed to subject the fighting red men.
Nearly every Visalian of prominence was at this time interested
in either the Coso or ()wens river mines. Valuable cargo trains
were at all times on the road and the menace to these as well as to
the lives of smaller prospecting parties at times assumed serious
l^roportions. These troubles culminated in 1862 and 1863. It is
impossible to obtain sufficient data to give a connected account of
the different uprisings, but the dangerous character of the warfare
and the difficulties in the way of providing protection to settlers
and miners may be judged by the following:
In the s]n-ing of 1862, Visalians sent a party with stores of
arms and ammunition to render assistance and gather information.
Warren Wassen reported in part as follows: "Being unable on
my arrival at Amora to obtain provisions or transportation for the
company organized there to receive the arms sent in my charge, I
was compelled to leave them and proceed, accompanied by Lieu-
tenant Noble and his command of fifty mounted men. We arrived
at the upper crossing of Owens river on the evening of April 6.
On the next morning we met -nath Colonel G. Evans with Lieutenants
French and Oliver; Captain Wynne of his command having been
left with seven men to garrison the stone fort forty miles below. Tiieso
were under Colonel Mayfield of Visalia.
"It appeared that during the past winter the Indians had been
in the habit of killing cattle, which had led to the killing of some
Indians, after which the Indians availed themselves of every opjior-
tunity to kill whites.
"The whites finally collected their cattle a1 a point about thirty
miles above the lake, fortified themselves and sent messengers to
Visalia and Carson for relief. They were reinforced by a ])arty of
eighteen men who left Amora on March 28. About noon on the 6th
there was a verv brisk engagement in which ( '. .1. i'leasaiils of
■26 tularp: and kings counties
Amora. Mr. Morrisou of A'isalia and Sheriff Scott of Mono county
were killed. The whites took refuge in an irrigating- ditch, whence
they fired, inflicting some damage. At night, after tlie moon went
down, the Indians ceased firing and the whites retreated, leaving
behind seventeen or eighteen of their horses and considerable am-
munition and provisions.
"Colonel Evans the next day met this i)arty and persuaded
about forty-five of them to return to the pursuit. The remainder
retreated to the fort. Our party joined that of Colonel Evans and
we camped that night on the battleground of the previous day. The
next day, about noon, the Indians were reported located in a canyon.
The command was divided into three columns, one under Colonel
Evans, one under Lieutenant Noble and the other under Colonel
Mayfield. We proceeded up the mountain, facing a terrific snow-
storm which prevented our seeing three yards ahead of us. Failing
to find Indians, we returned to camp. After dark the Indians were
located by their campfires as being in a canyon about a mile north
of the one we had ascended, and in tlie morning a reconnoitering
party, under Sergeant Gillispie, was sent out. After advancing
some three himdred yards they were fired upon. Gillis|)ie was
instantly killed and Corporal Harris severely wounded.
"Lieutenant Noble was sent to take possession of the moun-
tain to the left of the canyon. This position he gained with difficulty,
facing a destructive fire and, unable to maintain it without severe
loss, was forced to retreat. Colonel Mayfield. who accompanied
him, was killed.
"The whole party under Colonel P^vans were forced to retreat
down the valley, the Indians following. Colonel Evans, being with-
out provisions, was compelled to return to his former post near
Los Angeles. Lieutenant Noble accompanied him as far as the
fort for the purpose of escorting the citizens in tiiis direction out
of the valley with their stock, which numbered about four thousand
head of cattle and twenty-five hundred head of sheep.
"There were not over twenty-five Indians engaged in this fiyiit
but they were well armed and from the nature of their ])Osition
could have held it against any odds."
In the following year numerous other outbreaks occurred. Visalia
again despatched a wagon-load of arms to protect the Coso mines.
In the skirmishes of this season, the whites were generally suc-
cessful.
In one battle the Indians ))osted themselves in a ravine near
the lake, whence they were dislodged and utterly defeated after an
engagement lasting over four hours. ()nl>- a small number made
their escai)e. Of these, ".loaciuin Jim." a noted chief, succeeded
in reaching a raiiclieria iieai- \'isalia where he was killed while trv-
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 27
ing to escape capture by a detachnient of soldiers sent to liriiii;-
him in.
In July, 1863, the Owens river Indians were as a body thor-
oughly subdued. Practically the entire tribe, to the nunilier of nine
hundred, were marched to the Tejon Indian reservation. They
were escorted by one hundred cavalry men under command of Cap-
tains McLaughlin, Noble and l\oi)es.
Minor outlireaks and outrages continued to occur for a few
years following, since which time a lasting i)eace has ensued.
HOSPIT.^^L ROCK
Al)out ten miles above Three Rivers, on the middle fork of
the Kaweah river near the present extensive constitution works of
the Mt. Whitney Power company, stands an enormous rock, under-
cut in siTcli a way as to form a considerable shelter.
It is covered with the ] tainted sign writing of a prehistoric race
and until recent years was the abiding place for a settlement of
Indians. The name "Hospital" rock arose through an accident
that befell A. Everton in 1873 or 1874. Mr. Everton, in company
with George Cahoon, was hunting and trapping in the vicinity and
had out several set guns for bear. One morning the finding of
fresh blood on the trail indicated a wounded bear and Everton
started to return to camp to get dogs. On the way he accidentally
sprung one of the set guns, receiving the load in his leg, a nasty
wound from which he could scarcely have recovered had it not been
for the Indians. These carried him to camp and the scjuaws nursed
him back to health, api)lying such embrocations of herbs as were
suited to the case. As Hospital Rock it has therefore since Iteen
known.
TULARE AXD KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER III
THE EFFECT OF THE CIVIL WAR ON TFLARE COCNTY
When the Civil war broke dut Tulare eoiTiity was peopled lar.uely
l"»y southerners. In addition to the permanent settlers there were
(juite a numlier of stockmen from Texas and Arkansas who had
driven their cattle here for the purpose of fattenin.n' them and of
later driving them on to the Mariposa mines to sell.
S^inpathy for the South was very strong and yet the peo])le
here did not feel called uixm to take an active part in the rebel-
lion. They were now citizens of the sovereign state of California,
which had no cause for revolt. Their homes and property were
here secure; personally they had no quarrel with the government.
The coimsel of the cooler heads was to be moderate in speech and
quiet in demeanor, contining their activities to the passing of resolu-
tions condemning the action of the Republican party, and objecting
to the coercion of the South. This course of action naturally did
not appeal to the younger hot-blooded element. They wanted action
and the young bloods went around with chii)s on their shoulders
and hurrahed for Jetf Davis. There were not lacking among the
supporters of the Union cause those also whose blood ran warm
and who were quick to take offense and eager to resent insults.
If anything more was needed to cause trouble to start it was
whiskey, and there was whiskey galore. At every corner was a
saloon — some Union, some Rebel. Courage and recklessness were
23urchased freely and street brawls became common.
Following a request of the Union men for protection, a com-
pany of troops was sent into Visalia to maintain order. The ar-
rival of these by no means ]:)ut a stop to brawls, altercations and
street disturbances. Many bullies were among the number and these,
knowing the irresistible power that lay behind their organization,
became very insulting and overbearing in their conduct, especially
when under the influence of liijuor.
A jiarticularly disgraceful e])isode occurred on the -J-th of
July. A crowd of drunken soldiers tilled one of their wooden
canteens with whiskey, drai)ed around it the American flag, and
marched up and down the street demanding of each, person they
met that he drink with lliem to Abraham Lincoln and the Union.
Those refusing, among wliom were AViley Watson, Doctor Riley
and Jolm Williams, ])r(iniinent citizens, were arrested and taken to
Camp I'.ahl.itt.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 29
tlXION MEETTNCi HELD
On May 25, 1861, in response to a call which was signed l)y
more than one hundred names, the Union men of Msalia and vicin-
ity met in mass meeting at the courthouse and expressed their
adherence to the cause. The meeting was called to order liy S. R.
Dummer, who nominated W.N. Steulien for president. This motion
was carried and Mr. Steuben took the cliair. Messrs. D. R. Doug-
lass, Joseph H. Thomas, D. G. Overall and Peter Dean were cliosen
vice-presidents and James II. Lawrence and II. G. McLean secre-
taries.
Previous to the regular proceedings of the meeting Miss Louisa
Kellenberg, beautifully attired as the Goddess of Liberty, came
forward and presented on behalf of the ladies of Visalia a beautiful
national flag made of silk. The banner was received by A. .1.
Atwell-, who returned thanks in an eloquent speech.
S. R. Dunnner, J. M. Hayes, E. E. Hewitt, F. Bacon and B. B.
Lawless were ap])oiuted a committee on resolutions and after a
short speech by S. C. Brown, they presented a set wliicli were
adopted. Among the resolutions were these :
"That the constitution of the United States is not a leasiue or
confederacy of states in their sovereign capacity, but a goxernnicnt
of the people of our whole coimtry founded on their a<loi)ti()n. and
creating direct relations between itself and the i>eople.
"That no state authority has power to dissolve these relations.
"That we are opposed in the present condition of affairs to
the formation of a Pacific republic, and will discourage any attempt
to induce Oalifornia to violate her allegiance to the Union."
SOI'THEKN SYMPATHIZERS MEET
In the following month, June, a mass meeting of those es])ons-
ing the cause of the Confederacy, or at any rate believing in the
doctrine of states' rights, was held.
This meeting was held in a grove near the courthouse, where
seats and a rostrum had lieen ])rovided, and was very largely
attended. W. D. McDaniel had been chosen marshal of the day
and the audience formed in i^rocession in front of Warner's hotel
and marched to the scene to the tune of Yankee Doodle.
Thomas R. Davidson was elected president and Messrs. Wiley
Watson, William Coddington, Capt. E. Hunter, Robert Coughran,
R. K. Nichols and R. B. Lawless vice-jiresidents. R. P. Gill and
R. C. Redd were chosen as secretaries. The conunittec on resolu-
tions, consisting of Joseph H. Clark, K. K. Calhoun. \V. A. K'nssell.
William B. Poer, Burd Lawless, L. T. Sliei)pard, James L. Wells
and Wiley Coughran, ])resented the following, which weie aihipted.
"Resolved, That as American citizens imluu'd with a spirit of
fidelitv to the constitution and the laws an<l seeking only the hap-
30 TULAEE AND KINGS (X)UNTIES
piness, prosperity and preservation of our common country, we
deem it our duty in view of the declared hostility to the South and
her institutions by the Rei)ublican administration to oppose the
same by all constitutional means ; that we regard President Lincoln
as the exjjonent of a sectional party whose avowed policy towards
one section of our country, pursued through a series of many years,
has been the fruitful source of all our national evils; that the war
now being waged by the Republican administration is unjust, inhu-
man and unconstitutional, having for its object the subjugation
of states, the obliteration of state lines, the political degradation
of their i)e()])le and the de])rivation of tlieir property, and should
meet and merit the just condemnation of all true friends of con-
stitutional lil)erty; that we believe that the best interests of the
country demand, and her ])olitical existence as a nation depends
upon the speedy inauguration of a peace policy characterized by a
spirit of concession and an honorable compromise as the only pro])er
basis for the satisfactory adjustment of the differences between the
northern and southern states."
On May 23, 1861, a meeting was held at Music Hall in Visalia
for the purpose of organizing a military company. G. A. Botsford
presided. It was decided to call it the Visalia Mounted Rifles, and
the following officers were elected: Captain, G. W. AVarner; first
lieutenant, J. H. Kennedy; second lieutenant, G. W. Roberts; third
lieutenant, Robert Baker; sergeants, William C. Hill, William p]ly,
R. Peppard, G. Francis and T. J. Preston; corjiorals, II. C'ha])man,
H. E. McBride, William Baker, Orrin Barr; ])ermanent secretary,
Horace Thomas.
It will be noted that there was no lack of officers.
In 1863 a volunteer cavalry comi)any called the Tulare Home
Guards, was organized at Outside Creek with sixty-one members.
The following officers were chosen : Captain, W. S. Powell ; first
lieutenant, George W. Duncan; senior second lieutenant, J. T. Col-
lins; junior second lieutenant, William C. Deputy.
Com])any D, Second Cavalry, under command of Lieutenant-
Colonel Elvans, arrived in September, 1862, crossing the mountains
from Inde]iendence by trail. A wagon-load of melons was donated
them. In October they took uj) headquarters at Cam]) Babbitt, a
mile north of A'isalia, now known as the "Cain" tract.
Company I, Second Cavalry, arrived from Plaeerville in Octo-
ber, and Comi)any E, Second Cavalry, called the Tuolumne Rangers
and supi)osed to be the ones who destroyed the office of the Equal
Rights Expositor, completed the brigade of regular troops. It
would appear that three companies of federals and two of militia
should have been auq)le to preserve the iieace. but it seemed that
tliex- lather served to ])rovoke disturbances and many quarrels result-
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIP^S 31
ing fatally were laid directly to their presence.
Id accordance with the appeal of the sanitary commission for
funds to aid the sick and wounded, W. N. Steuben took the matter
in cliaro-e at Msalia, J. M. Harer at Tule River, J. M. Keyes at
White River and J. F. Pawing at Kern River. About $300 was
raised.
On October 27, 1862, Senator Baker, Tulare county's most
prominent citizen, was arrested, charged with discouraging enlist-
ments in the United States army and of uttering treasonable senti-
ments, and being denied a parole, was placed in the guardhouse.
THE KILLING OF VOGLE
On November 29, 1862, Eugene ^"ogle, a soldier of C'omijany
I, Second Cavalry, California Volunteers, was shot and killed by
Frank Slawick, bartender at the Fashion saloon. This place, kept
by "Ki" O'Neal, was known as a "rebel" saloon and threats had
been made by soldiers to do up its proprietor. About midnight, a
crowd of drunken soldiers entered and ordered drinks for which
they declined to ])ay. They then ordered cigars, which Slawick
refused them, saying "I have no cigars for your kind." A row
started and Slawick reached under the bar for bis gun, which was
accidentally discharged. A fusilade followed in which Vogle was
killed. Slawick was shot in the arm and two soldiers were slightly
wounded. O'Neal was struck in the forehead by a glancing shot
and knocked senseless.
Slawick made his escape and was taken by "Uncle" Billy
Cozzens to his place near Lime Kiln (now Lemon Cove) to be cared
for. A meeting of citizens and officers was held in consequence
of the atfray to devise means of keeping the peace. Col. George
S. Evans, in command of Camp Babbitt, said if the soldiers were
the aggressors he would inmish them, or give them over to the
civil authorities, but he would punish none for resenting insults to
them or the flag. He would expect them to protect themselves.
KILLING OF STKOBLE
On August 6, 1863, Charles Stroble, sergeant of Com])any I.
Second Cavalry, California A'olunteers, was shot and killed by
James L. "Wells.
It appears that the trouble started near the corner of Main
and Church streets. Tilden Reid, who afterwards became sheriff,
had been drinking some and yelled "Hurrah for Downey" (the
Democratic candidate for Governor). Jim Donahue, a soldier, told
him that he would shoot him if he said that again. This trouble
caused quite an embrogiio in which Wells joined. Reid was ar-
rested and taken to the guardhouse at Camp Babbitt, and Wells
started home.
32 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
He had been preceded by Douabne and Stroble, "n'bo, foi- the
puri)ose of picking a row, awaited liim at the entrance to Knoble
& Krafts restaurant (near Rouse & Sous' present place of busi-
ness). Donahue here kicked a chair at Wells, which struck him in
the leg, saying "I meant that for you." "Wells declined to take up
the proffered insult -and walked on, Donahue and Stroble following,
making insulting remarks. Wells stepped inside the doorway of a
tin shop at the corner of Main and Court streets, and, sheltering him-
self behind a pillar, secured his revolver. Donahue saw this action
and yelled, "Look out! he's got a gun!" Wells fired, killing Stroble
and took repeated shots at Donahue, who escaped into the Union
saloon across the street. A stray shot is said to have cut G. A.
Botsford's necktie.
Wells ran through the alley to the Overland stables (across
the street from their present location) and secured a saddle horse
which he rode to the edge of the swamp belt near the site of the
sugar factory. While this was going on. Bob Houston and Gordon
Douglass, friends of Wells, drew their six-shooters and were taken
in charge by soldiers. Wells had narrow escapes from capture. At
one time, when he was hiding under a log, several of the pursuing
soldiers came uj) and sat on it. He wandered as far east as the
Cottage postoffice, where his friend, Jesse Reynolds, secreted him
and supplied him with provisions. He later disguised himself, got
to San Francisco and from there went to Mexico. His relatives
took up the matter and secured a change of venue to Merced county,
whereupon Wells returned, submitted to trial, and was acquitted.
During the night following the affray. Wells' house in \'isalia
was burned, a deed generally believed to have been conunitted liy
the soldier comrades of Stroble.
THE ROWLEY AFFAIR
Some time in '63, a half-witted boy named Denny McKay, had
secured a pair of pants from a soldier, and was wearing them. Hugh
McKay, a brother, happened along and said, "Hello, Denny, are you
going to be a soldier?" and made some contemptuous reference to
the soldiery. Richard Rowley, a private of the Second Cavalry,
took up the matter and chased McKay, who was unarmed, firiny
as he ran. A volimteer, seeing the pursuit, also took a shot at
McKay, but he escaped unharmed.
On March 4, 1868, Rowley was assassinated in Porterville while
sitting at dusk before the fireplace in the hotel, the cause being at
first attributed to the war-time incident. It developed, however,
that Rowley had an implacable enemy in one Smith Fine. Rowley,
it was alleged, had gone to Fine's house in his absence and at the
point of a revolver compelh'd Fine's wife to dance for his amuse-
TULARE AND KIXCIS COUNTIES 38
meut. Fine was acquitted of the luurder, however, throuiih hiek
of evidence.
DESTRUCTION OF NEWSPAPER PLANT
In 1862 L. P. Hall and S. J. Garrison established a paper iu
Visalia called the Civil Rights Expositor, later changing the name
to The Equal Rights Expositor. The ofSce was located above the
Visalia House. It was a red-hot secession newspaper, ably edited
bnt extremely radical in its utterances, and at once gained great
favor with its readers and acquired a large circulation.
On account of his open advocacy of the southern cause Hall
was arrested and taken to Camp Babbitt, where he was forced
to take the oath of allegiance. After this incident the editorials
in the Expositor were more bitter and inflammatory than ever
before, angering beyond measure the soldiers aud volunteers. Among
the choice utterances were:
"We have said that Abraham Lincoln lias perjured himself.
and have pi-OA'ed it. We now tell those who i)articii)ate in this
detestable war, to the extent of their support, that they partici])ate
with Lincoln in the crime of perjury."
"Let our states' rights friend look around them and note tlie
])assion slaves of the President, who prate about reliels and traitors,
while they hug their chains with the servility of a kicked and cuffed
hound. ' '
Dr. Davenport, owner of the l)uikling in which the printing-
office was located, fearing that Hall's vituperative utterances would
incite a riot and damage be done to his property, ordered them to
leave the premises. The office was removed to Court street adjoin-
ing the lot on which the Times office now stands.
On the night of March 5, 1863, a party of soldiers from Camp
Babbitt, together with a number of townspeople, entered the office,
tied Garrison up, threw the type into the street and destroyed the
printing presses. Guards were posted at the street corners to
prevent interference with the diversion. So resentful of this act
were Hall and Garrison's friends in Mariposa that a party of
seventy or eighty armed men came down for the purpose of "clean-
ing up" Camp Babbitt. These hid themselves in the swamp, ex-
pecting to be reinforced from Visalia. Cooler counsel among the
leaders of the southern sympathizers here prevailed, however, and
they were induced to disband and return to Mariposa.
Hall and Garrison for several years tried to get a bill through
the legislature compensating them for the money loss incurred,
and, in 1868, succeeded in doing so. Governor Haight, however,
vetoed the bill on the ground that the property had 1)een destroyed
by soldiers und^r the authority and control of the Ignited States,
for which the state was not resp(msible.
34 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER IV
VI SALT A
Necessarily tlie history of Tulare eoiinty was to all intents and
purposes, in the early period, the history of Visalia, as tlie activities
of the entire population centered here.
The early beginnings are familiar. It will be remembered how,
in 1852, alone in the wilderness, Nathaniel and Abner Vise located
for a future homestead the site of the city; how the first immigrants
thought it necessary to build a stockade to defend themselves from
Indians. Also will be remembered Nat Vise's generous offer to
donate his claim to the people if they would locate the county seat
here; how the offer was accepted and liy the election of 185o,
ratified.
The first enterprises tending to making a town here have also
been detailed in the general history; how Baker started a store
and Matthews a mill ; how a school and church and a two-stoi-y log
jail, planked and "pinned with double tens" followed.
Nearly three score years have ])assed since these things were,
and here is only space for the bare mention of the milestones of
progress Visalia has since passed. Many of these, too, marking as
well the progress of the county as a whole, are treated under sep-
arate headings. Thus the first two causes tending toward increased
population were the discovery of gold as early as 1856, and the
establishment of the Overland stage route through the town in
1859. For a number of years following the town showed a rapid,
if what might be, perhaps, termed a hectic, growth.
Those were the days of easy-going ways, the day of dollars
easily acquired, easily spent. Between 1856 and 1860 it was esti-
mated that from five and six thousand miners passed through
Visalia, en route to the gold fields. Outfitting and freighting and
the accommodation and transportation of travelers developed into
a business of magnitude. And the miners, whether going or com-
ing, whether hopeful, successful, or discouraged, were always thirsty,
and. whether they had been lucky or unlucky, were still always ready to
take another chance.
And catering to these wants, saloons and gambling flourished;
dance halls were enlarged, musicians imported. Faro, roulette,
monte, poker and dice games all assisted in the general scheme of
tlie retention of a goodly portion of the traveler's coin, .^nd when
the lull in mining began to make itself felt, the Civil war. with its
l)ay days for soldiers and its grafting quartermasters, again made
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 35
life of this kind pleasant and profitable. New mines in the Owens
River district were discovered and business flourished anew.
Durin.o- these years, of course, the population had been increased
by the addition of all classes of men. Tliere were now keen law-
yers, shrewd merchants, skilled physicians. There were teachers
and preachers. Two newspapers had been established, the Delta,
by John Shannon in 1859, and the Equal Rights Expositor, by S. J.
Garrison, in 1862. The Masons and Odd Fellows had organized.
With it all, however, was lacking the element of stability. The fact
was that although set in the midst of a most fertile section, and
being the only town within a score of miles, the community, while
apparently prosperous, was not really self-supporting. This arose
from its location remote from markets and the lack of communica-
tion and transportation facilities. For a few vears retrogressicm
set in. "I'^SSOVS
And now, before we consider the next era, let us take a survey
of the old town and try to visualize it as it existed before the war.
A view taken from the Palace hotel corner on Main street,
looking east, will serve for a foundation for a correct mental
building of the picture. The Exchange hotel appears on the left
and S. Sweet's store in the right foreground. Certainly it is a
vision of ramshackle neglectfulness, of general unkemptness and
untidiness. No sidewalks, no curbs, no cleanliness.
Commencing on the south side of Main street, at the corner of
Bridge, was located the general merchandise store of 0. Reinstein.
a two-storybuilding, almost the onh' one in this neighborhood. The
Birley and Pierce blacksmith shop adjoined on the west and at
the corner was Swat and Wells emporium.
At the corner now occupied by the balconies was a lirick iniild-
iug used as a general store by John G. Parker. The Cosmopolitan
saloon was next in order, then a little brick drug store, oj^ened by
Henry Bequette. Then came a general store kept by a Mr. Johnson
and at the Uhl corner, an old frame building housing the general
merchandise store of D. K. Douglass. At the corner where is now
located the Citizens bank, stood the Masonic Hall building, then
Hockett's, then Rogers' stores. In the middle of the block was
Keener 's butcher shop, then the Fashion saloon, the Bostwick's tin
shop. Around the corner, where is now the Harrell building, was
Peter Goodhue's stable. The National Bank site was occui)ied by
the dwelling house of John Majors, which later made wa\- foi- a
two-story building erected by H. and I. Cohen, the lower floor used
for the St. Charles saloon and the upi)er for Music Hall.
Commencing once more on Main street, opposite our point of
beginning, we find Turner's blacksmith shop occupying the site of
the Ballon buildins,-. On the TIarvev House corner stood a two-
;^6 TITLARE AXD KINGS COUNTIES
story brick buildiu.a,' run as a liotel oriiiinally l)y L. R. Ketchum
and G. G. Noel. In 1858 G. AV. Warner assumed charge, calling it
the Exchange hotel.
At the American hotel corner was the appropriately named
Deadfall saloon, dance hall and bowling alley. Between there and
the corner was a dwelling house and then a restaurant and two
stores, occui)ying the lower floo)' of a ))uilding located on a portion
of the Visalia House site.
The Delta office, built by Shannon, its first proprietor, stood at
the corner now occupied by the National Bank; in the neighborhood
of Li])scomb's pool hall was a two-story frame building occupied as
the general store of H. Mitchell. At the Palace hotel corner stood
Dick Billip's hotel, which later came to be called the Exchange
hotel. Nyothiug now until about the site of the Carnegie library,
where was located the steam flouring mill originally built by AVagg,
later operated by Jack Lorenz, son-in-law of Dr. Matthews.
On east Main, in the block where now the Santa Fe de]iot is
situated, stood the Eagle hotel, kept by Capt. S. R. Dummer, and
later by G. W. Warner. Matthews & Co. flour mill of hewn oak
timbers, operated by a little turbine wheel set in the race, stood
about where the present flouring mill stands. The wasteway cut
across Main street and emptied into Mill creek near the depot site.
Outside of some minor shops, the above constituted all the business
bouses, although a big stable and barn, surrounded by a high brick
wall, was built at the present location of Armory Hall b.v the Overland
stage company in 1859, when the route was established through Vi-
salia. Townsend's saloon, in the neighborhood of Huffaker's stables,
also came into existence.
It must be remembered that there were no sidewalks exce])!
those of plank in front of the different business establishments;
there were no pavements, no curbs, no sewers, no lights. Remem-
ber that this constituted the entire business section of town and that
the dwellings, with the exception of a few brick residences, such
as Wiley Watson's and A. J. At well's, were mere shacks, scattered,
separated from each other by dense growths of brush, weeds, briars
and a general tangle of vegetation. Streets, while laid out, were
not necessarily strictly followed where cut-offs enabled one to reach
main roads by a more direct route.
Such was Visalia in the late '50s, and it was a good town and
a growing town; there was life and gaiety, brisk business and
abundant money. A spreading oak tree, 'just visible in the back-
ground of the photograph, stood in the street at the corner of
Bridge. The American flag, one made by Mrs. G. W. Warner,
was stretched from it to the Warner hotel and flung to the lireeze
for the first time in Visalia in 1856.
The first lirecrackei-s, iniportod in 1858, were hailed with delight
TULAKE AND K1X(JS ('OUXTIKS 37
by the fun-luviny pupulace and sold readily at from $1 to $1.50
a pack. Horce-raciug was a si^ort in those days entered into with
great enthusiasm. Local stock was used and a large portion of the
available cash was in the hands of stakeholders before the start was
made. Sometimes the races were postponed until late in the day
that visitors from a distance might all have a chance to arrive and
"get their money up." Some pleasures were more expensive then
than now. Seven dollars was the usual price for a ball ticket, al-
though on exceptionally swell occasions, such as tlie opening of the
St. Charles hotel, a $10 charge was made.
That the love of "red licker," while natural, and, in fact, essen-
tial, might be carried to extremes and that therefore the api)etite
should be somewhat curbed, was early recognized. The Visalia
Dashaway Association, for the furtherance of temperance, was
formed and many able citizens joined, and speeches of impassioned
eloquence were made. As some slight stimulant was necessary to
exalt the mind to a degree of inspiration in the ])reparatiou of such
si)eeches, and as it was necessary in some measure to recujjerate
after the violent physical effort of delivery, report hath it that
some of the officers of this association were often inclined to over-
rate their cajiacity for the cup that "l)rig]itens and invigoi'ates the
consciousness."
We pass on. Came the Civil war. Of the duel to the death
in the campaign preceding it; of the organization of home guards
and the- coming of troops; of the street brawls and murders and
house burnings and news])ai)er destroying during tlic ]ieriod. there
are accounts elsewhere.
After the war, the need for rail transportation facilities made
itself severely felt and for a long period of years untiring efforts
were made by Visalia 's leading citizens to secure some such. The
production of wool was becoming important, wheat farming offered
prospects but excessive freights caused development to halt. Wiicn
it became known that the Southern Pacific company had definitely
left Visalia otT the map by leaving it seven miles to the east, R. 1-'.
Hyde, the leading financier of the city, with assistance from many
enterprising citizens, Iniilt the Visalia and (Joslien railroad, com
pleting it in 1875.
In the meantime the city had been incorporated. This measure
had been defeated by vote at an election held in 18()0, but it was not
imtil February 27, 1874, that the a]jpi-ovai of the legislative act gav.'
the rank of city to the town." The first oflicers were: S. A. She)>-
pard, M. Mooney, I. A. Samstag, \V. H. IMsliop and \\". (i. Owen,
trustees; J. C. Hoy, marshal and tax collector; Julius Levy, assessor;
J. A. Nowell, school superintendent and city clerk; S. C. Brown,
S. H. Collins, J. C. Ward and W. F. Thomas, school directors, and
A. Elkins, recorder.
:^8 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
Arthur and James Crowley establislied a water works system
in 1875, gas works soon followed and electric lighting came in 1891.
Increased railway facilities were necessary for growth and
tardily came. The Visalia-Tnlare steam motor road was built
by local capital; the Santa Fe, originally the San Joaquin Valley
railroad, arrived in 1896; the Southern Pacitic made connections
with the east side branch at pjxeter in 1897, shortly afterward
taking over the Goshen- Visalia road; in 1907 the Visalia Electric
road to Lemon Cove, and now on to Woodlake and Redbanks, was
built, and in 1912 was inaugurated the Big Four electric railroad,
which will connect Tulare, Porterville, Woodville and Visalia.
Prior to 1890 municipal improvements were of a very minor
character, In fact, only within the past few years have they become
such as befits a modern, rapidly growing city.
The prevention of the flood waters of Mill creek from over-
flowing the town had always constituted a jirolilem, and in 1891
the channel was deepened and straightened and confined to a plank-
covered flume, which answered with more or less success until the
excessive high water of 1906. During that season the town was
repeatedly flooded and adequate protective measures became neces-
sary. For the purpose of securing immunity from this danger
bonds in the sum of $70,000 were voted, and in 1910 was con-
structed, according to the design of the city engineer, M. L. Weaver,
a cement-lined concrete aqueduct over half a mile in length, the
same covered for nearly all the distance with a re-enforced • concrete
construction.
Prior to this, in 1902. a sewerage system extending throughout
the city had been built at a cost of about $80,000, and a commence-
ment of street paving liad been made in 1895, by the laying down
of twelve blocks in the business section.
In 1909 a very handsome and convenient city hall of mission
design was built in re-enforced concrete, at a cost of $30,000. Among
other recent municipal improvements we may cite the magnificent
new high school, now building in the western ]iart of town, to take
the place of the $40,000 new building com))leted in 1911, and burned
to the ground in the same year.
One of the serious passages in Visalia 's recent history has
been the numerous agitations, controversies and elections over the
liquor question. This matter first came before the voters in 1874,
and the proposed no-license measure was defeated by a vote of
178 to 120. About twenty years elapsed before the sentiment against
saloons reached proportions. This became es]iecially pronounced in
1906, when nearly all the precincts in the county outside of incor-
porated towns voted "dry."
After repeated efforts, the anti-saloon forces succeeded, in 1911,
in inducing the city trustees to call an election for the purpose of
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 39
securing by a test or "straw" vote, the sentiment of .the people.
Twelve hundred votes were cast at this election, the "drys" win-
ning by one hundred and forty-one. At the city election in April
following, city trustees favoring no-license were elected, the ma-
jority in their favor being, however, only about eighty. An ordi-
nance closing saloons was immediately passed.
The state legislature had in the meantime passed the AVyliie
local option law, providing for a submission of the question to the
people upon the filing of a petition signed by twenty-five per cent
of the voters. . The advocates of the saloon cause, confident that
sentiment was changing in their favor, as shown by the recent vote,
and that this would become more pronounced upon the falling off of
business incident to the closing of saloons, determined to avail
themselves of the provisions of the new law.
A petition having three hundred and four signatures was filed
and an election held July 17, 1911. The "wets" obtained a majority
of six votes at this election, there being five hundred and sixteen
votes for license, five hundred and ten against and nine thrown
out on account of being blank or incorrectly marked. The city
trustees decided that as the saloon advocates had not received a
clear majority of all ballots placed in the box, the "drys'' had won,
and refused to issue licenses. Intense bitterness was engendered
by this action and the case carried into court on mandamus pro-
ceedings. Judge Wallace decided that the election was carried by
the "wets," but that as the Wyllie law did not provide that the
liquor traffic must be licensed following a majority vote, therefore
the writ of mandamus would not lie.
It was, in other words, optional with the board to follow the
expression of the will of the people. The trustees, standing on
their legal rights, and justifying their action by the contention that
illegal votes were cast, maintained their ]>osition. The saloons
thereupon gave v]> their fight for a time, but in tlie spi-jiig of J91ll
a final effort was made to secure a lease of life. This took tlie
form of initiative legislation. An ordinance providing for the
licensing of saloons under regulations so strict that it was thought
that they would meet with the approval of the less radical opposi-
tion element was prepared, and the requisite number of signatures
was affixed to a petition asking the trustees to call an election to
determine whether or not it was the will of the people that the
ordinance go into effect. At this election, held in April, 1912,
women for the first time participated in municipal affairs. The
measure was defeated overwhelmingly, thus finally settling a con-
troversy that had existed for years.
The fact that Visalia, the oldest town in the San Joaipiiii vnl
ley, has allowed some to distance it in poinilation and many to out-
strip it in rapid growth has l)een the cause of comment.
40 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
Three principal factors there are which have contributed to
this state of affairs. First, may be placed the fact of its not being
on the main line of railway, although at present the facilities for
shipment, and for travel are the same as if. it were on three main
lines. Second, is the fact that land in the vicinity has been held in
large tracts by owners who did not desire to sell. Not until re-
cently have any tracts suitable for colonization beeu placed on the
market. Third, is the fact that elsewhere the prospective settler
has in the past been able to find cheaper land. In many other locali-
ties, lands of low original value were rendered suitable for settle-
ment by irrigation or other enterprises, and with the cost of this
and promoters' profits added, could still be sold at a low figure.
In the rich delta sub-irrigated district, tributary to Visalia, land
values on undeveloped tracts have been maintained for the reason
that their conversion into income property was at any time an easy
matter. The pressure of a flood of homeseekers is now at the bar-
riers, and an exceeding growth and an increased prosi)erity will
undoubtedly result.
Visalia today is a busy and growing modern city of (iOOO in-
habitants. In addition to the municipal improvements previously
spoken of, such as the new city hall, new high school building, recent
extensive street paving, adequate sewer system, etc., there is a
handsome public library building', a delightful cit.v park, a building
in which are housed the chamber of commerce displays and which
affords a meeting place for all civic bodies.
The city is peculiarly iilcasing to the eye on account of the
extent of shade tree bordered streets. Situated as it is in the
center of the sub-irrigated lielt, natural perennial green grasses
flourish and the lawns and foliage never indicate by failing verdure
the parching effects of summer heat. Many oaks, remnants of the
solid groves that once were a feature of the landscape, remain and
add to the charm.
Quite a large uumber of pretentious residences, with carefully
kept lawns and gardens, grace the environs. Cement sidewalks
have generally been well extended towards the outskirts, and the
streets, outside the paved district, are usually oiled and kejit in
good order.
In a business way, modern requirements are fully met. There
are three banks with deposits of nearly $2,500,000; two cauning
factories; two dried fruit packinghouses; two creameries; two green
fruit packing concerns and a beet sugar factory.
The amount of money expended by these concerns in payrolls
and payments for the products of orchard, dairy and farm reaches
an enormous total, and forms the foundation for permaneut pros-
))erity.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIIOS 41
CHAPTER V.
TULARE COUNTY'S CUFRUS P^RUIT
The eastern slope of Tulare county is covered today witli aU
most one continuous orange grove. In the amount of cajiital in-
vested, tlie culture of citrus fruits is by far tlie most imjiortant
industry in tlie county. In yearly revenue it equals or exceeds any
, other.
Roughly speaking, there are aliout twenty-seven thousand acres
set to oranges and lemons, one-third of which is in hearing. The
production last year was four thousand carloads, having a value
of $2,500,000. A conservative valuation of these orchards with
their equipment would be $13,500,000, and a fair estimate of the
income when the present acreage reaches bearing would be $7,500,000.
This wonderful develo]mient has been wholly accomplished within
the past twenty years, but a few words relative to the very earliest
efforts in this direction may prove of interest.
The first orange tree planted in Tulare county was in 18(50, when
Mrs. H. M. White, in Frazier valley, i)lanted the seed from an
orange brought from the South Sea islands. As one passes now
through miles of groves heavy with golden fruit or laden with odorous
blossoms, the symbolism of this act appeals to the imagination
It seems as if, endowed with the supernatural powers of one of
the fates, she performed the ceremony of transferring to this
inland vale some of the spicy fragrance and some of the easy
opulence of those languorous isles.
Returning to facts, Deming (libben, in 1863, also planted a
few orange trees in his yard at Piano. At dates not exactly known,
Peter Goodhue set out a tree in Visalia and J. W. C. Pogue at
Lemon Cove planted a few. To trace the extraordinary growth of
the inchistry from those days until the ])resent, when trainloads
are shipped daily throughout the season, would fill a volume. And
yet progress in the beginning was hampei-ed in many ways. Few
of Tulare county resiclents believed in it. It was expensive, the
cost even in the beginning reaching $300 per acre for bringing an
orchard into bearing. The area of adaptable laud was thought
to be confined only to certain foothill slopes, or coves with certain
kinds of exposure. Hog-wallow land was deemed unfit. Failure to
obtain water on the first trial in some districts was considered evi-
dence that none was there. But when numerous crops came into
bearing and the fruit was being harvested some six weeks earlier
than that from Southern California, wlum this fi-uit reached llie
eastern markets in time for Thanksgiving and Christmas markets
42 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
and sold for exceedingly high prices, there came visitors from the
southern orange districts who perceived at a glance the great pos-
sibilities of the section.
In 1870 W. J. Ellis, county assessor, in his statistical report
submitted to the surveyor general, listed one hundred oraiige trees
in the county. In making up his large total, however, he had re-
course to including about ninety young trees still in the nursery.
At this period there was no thought in the minds of anyone that
orange growing would develop as a commercial industry. This did
not occur until 1890. In that year George Frost, a prominent orange
grower and nurseryman of Riverside, took a look at the county. In
Southern California there existed a firm conviction that orange
growing north of Tehachapi was impossible. While Mr. Frost
looked at the country with doubtful eyes, he was more unprejudiced
than the majority. Besides this, he was anxious to find a market
for nursery trees. At the time he had on hand a large stock, which
he was unable to sell. In the San Joaquin valley for Mr. Frost's
inspection there were at the time the following groves only: at
Porterville, five acres; at the ranch of H. M. White, a few trees;
at Piano, one acre; at Lemon Cove, one and one-half acres; at
Centerville, six acres; and at the old General Beale's place, south
of Bakersfield, a five-acre tract planted to a general assortment of
citrus fruits.
The prospects for a new district appealed so strongly to Mr.
Frost that he engaged in a deal with the Pioneer Land comi)any
of Porterville whereby, on laud owned by the corporation, he was
to set out one hundred acres of orange trees and care for them
for two years. Then he was either to buy the property for -$100
per acre or the land company were to rejiay him for the trees and
labor expended.
Immediately following the exjn-ession of opinion of Mr. Frost
that the district was adapted to oranges, numbers iirepared to
engage in it, and the next year witnessed a planting that would
prove a commercial factor. Albert and Oliver Henry of Porter-
ville. who already had a few trees in bearing, became the ]iioneer
enterprising growers and boosters for the Porterville district.
In 1891 Capt. A. J. riutchinson. together with Messrs. Patten
and Glassell, purchased the Jacobs' place at Lindsay and in the
following year set out three acres at Lindsay, which became known
as the home ])lace. In 1893 planting became general. So well
pleased was Mr. Frost with his original venture at Porterville
that he purchased and iiroceeded to sot out an additional tract of
seventy-five acres.
Captain Hutchinson organized tlie Lindsay Land company, and
proceeded to subdivide liis tract into snuiU holdings, agreeing to
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 43
care for the groves of uon-residents. No ditch water for irrigating
was available at Lindsay. Wells were therefore sunk and steam
pumping plants installed, the first in the county. Water in abund-
ance was found at a depth of about seventy feet, which rose to
within twenty feet of the surface. The experiment generally dis-
believed in proved an unqualified success. A high water level in
the wells maintained itself in spite of the drain of constant imniping
and the supply appeared then as inexhaustible.
Thomas Johnson, Joe Curtis and other influential men of San
Jose, became prominent in promoting the Lindsay district. About
four hundred acres, mostly in ten acre tracts, were planted. Be-
tween two hundred and fifty and three hundred acres, also in small
blocks, were planted near Porterville.
Exeter entered the field in li»()4 tlirougb the ojierations of
George Frost. This gentleman, with Messrs. Merryman, Carney,
Hamilton, Davis and others, set out aboiit four hundred acres east
of Exeter, naming it the Bonnie Brae orchard. In ])assing, it may
be noted that Mr. Merryman later absorbed the interests of his
associates and greatly increased his holdings by the purchasing
of adjoining property. In addition to several hundred acres of
undeveloped land and a considerable acreage devoted to oli^•es
and deciduous fruits, there are seven hundred and fifty acres
devoted to oranges. It is the largest grove in the coimty and this,
together with the elegant residence, large, beautiful gardens and
grounds, make it one of the "show places" of the district.
Development at Lemon Cove did not lag behind this move-
ment, promotion work there being first accomplished by Messrs.
Hammond, Berry, Levis, Overall and Jordan of Visalia, who or-
ganized the Kaweah Lemon Company and set some two luiudrod
acres to trees. The Ohio Lemon Company shortly thereafter set
another similar tract to this fruit.
By 1904 development had been thoroughly launclied in the
Poi-terville, Lindsay, Exeter and Lemon Cove districts. \\\' turn
now to the commercial disposition of the product.
In 1892 there were boosters a-plenty for the new industry. It
was deemed desirable to show the world that a new citi'us district,
pi-ndncing fruit unecpialed, had been discovered. The World's Fair
at St. Louis was to open January 1, 1904. Above all things it be-
liduved growers here to make a big showing. P. M. Baier was
selected to prepare such an exhibit. The (irst full carload to
leave the county was the fruit for this disi)lay and it rc(|uir('d prac-
tically all grown in the county to fill it. The exhibit was lirst shown
in the Mechanics Pavilion in San Francisco, and then forwarded to
St. Louis, and received creditable mention at both jilaces.
In 1893 there were four carloads at the Frost orchard, and in
44 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
tlie next season both the Exchange and the Earl Fruit Com-
panies entered the field, getting out a pack of sixteen cars. This
fruit reached the eastern market in time for the Thanksgiving and
Christmas markets and sold for extra high prices. As this period
of ripening is several weeks in advance of Southern California a
great deal of attention was attracted to this locality and many
southern growers came, saw the results accomplished, and invested.
Old residents of Tulare county, however, generally held aloof from
venturing into this field. In fact, the whole business of the promo-
tion of the sale of orange lands and their planting appeared to
them as a rank swindle. The selling of foothill land at $25 to $50
]ier acre, or with water developed at $75 to $100, seemed to them
as merely a scheme to catch suckers. Only within the last few
years, in fact, have numbers of our own citizens taken an active
part m the enterprise, these now freely paying for lands treble the
price that they formerly believed extravagant.
During the first years of the rapid extension of acreage devoted
to citrus fruits investors were very chary of straying far from the
original bearing orchards. Objections inmunerable- were in fact
advanced toward all other lancls.
The Hutchinson tract at Lindsay was held to mark tlie extreme
westerly boundary of the thermal belt; only slojjes and coves in
the hills with certain exposures were suitable; south of Piano
there was no water; hog-wallow land was unfit; failure to obtain
water in the first trial in a new district was considered evidence
that none was there; and so on, endlessly, with able reasons why
the only true citrus lands had been ]ilanted by the first 'growers.
Largely in consequence of this attitude, the bearing orchards today
generally lie in the districts tributary to Porterville, Lindsay, Exe-
ter and Lemon Cove.
Commencing some seven or eight years ago, however, there has
been a bold exi)loitation of new districts, led by jiromoters with caju-
tal, energy and optimism. These have by actual demonstration shown
conclusively that the citrus belt is not bounded by such narrow limits.
Water in (juantities has l>een develoj^ed almost everywhere. Dinnba,
Orosi, Stokes valley, Yettem, Orange Heights, Klink, Venice Cove,'
Redbanks, Woodlake, Naranjo, Frazier valley, Strathmore, Zante,
Terra Bella and the entire district from Piano south to the coimty
line, including Terra Bella, Ducor and Richgrove, are each now capa-
ble of demonstrating by showing hundreds of acres of thriving or-
chards that they are adapted to this culture.
With the exception of Dinuba, Orosi, Yettem and Redbanks,
which have other sources of income, all of these new districts are
solely dependent upon citrus fruit culture for sn])port. In this con-
nection the solid iiii])rovements at Woodlake. Stratlimore and Terra
I'x'lla. iinrticiilni-lv in the wav of substantial business structures.
TULARE Ax\D KINGS COUNTIES 45
hotels, banks, newspapers, municipal water sup|)ly, conient sidewalks,
etc., indicate the confidence of moneyed men in Iho potential produc-
tive capacity of the community.
All of this expenditure in the way of permanent municipal im-
jtrovenients, together with the outlay of capital incident to the installa-
tion and maintenance throughout the entire district of electric power
systems, necessarily forms a portion of the entire sum today invested
in the citrus fruit industry of the county. The estimate of $13,500,000,
given at the commencement of this sketch, is shown, therefore, to be
far too low. Twenty million would perhaps come nearer. Likewise,
with reference to the present income. The estimate of $2,500,000 of
present return was based on a production of four thousand carloads,
four hundred boxes to the car, value $1.50 per box. The cost of lalior
for handling and jiacking and the salaries and profits of the men en-
gaged in this ])usiness were not included. Tims a fairer estimate of
the ])resent revenue from this source would be $3,000,000.
The first plantings were seedlings, but practically all have since
been replaced by Washington navels. The ]3resent pack of four thou-
sand carloads consists of about two hundred and fifty cars of lemons,
four hundred and fifty cars of Valencias and the remainder navels.
There are tliiity-five packing houses in the district, and double that
number will ))e needed as soon as the present new acreage comes
into bearing.
TuJai-c county now i-anks til'th in the state in tlie production of
(■itrus fruits, hut it ajipears certain that within four years it will take
first place.
TULARE county's DIMINISHED ARE.V
The jiresent area of Tulare county is 4,863 square niilcs.
It is still a large county and its diversified topogra]>liy and ]n-o-
ductions cause it to seem a veritable empire. How vast the area once
included in its bounds can be seen by the following slices that have
been taken from its territory : In 1856, Fresno county, witli 6,0.35
s(iuare miles; in 1866, Inyo county, with 10,224 square miles; in 1866,
Kern county, with 1,852 square miles; and in 1893, Kings county,
with 1,375 square miles.
46 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER YI
THE GENERAL RODEO
Three things were necessary in the early days of cattle raising in
Tulare county to insure success. These were a branding iron, a range
claim and a number of active cowboys.
There was a law at tliat time which had been |)assed by the legis-
lature of '51, entitled "An act to regulate rodeos," which caused this
condition. This law provided for a general rodeo on every stock farm,
and if a rancher failed to make it, it could be made by any of his
neighbors at his expense; and provided further that no man should
mark or brand his stock cattle except at one of these general rodeos.
Of tlie law and its workings, Stephen I5arton, writing in 1874,
says: "The cap sheaf of tlie enactment, however, was tliis section:
'All unmarked neat cattle, the mothers of which are unknown, shall
be considered the property of the owner of the farm on which they
may be found.' These provisions of law resulted in this county in
the unoccupied public domain being divided into range claims, and he
that was unable to make a general rodeo soon found that he had no
business to keep cattle, while those who undertook it found that the
business of the year simplified itself to the task of assembling on his
rodeo ground as many unmarked neat cattle without mothers as it
were possible to do. Can it be wondered at that, under such circum-
stances, cattle stealing should rise to the dignity of a science, and
finally to that of a fine art? The business of manipulating a rodeo
was at once more simple than that of stacking a deck of cards or that
of picking the pockets of an unwary traveler. Further, it was more
respectable and required, in one case, less cai)iial, in the othei',
less courage."
In 1907 occurred an incident at White River which at once illus-
trates the wealth once frtniuently found in the gokl pockets of this
section and brought to light a story of a mysterious disappearance,
buried treasure and unfounded susi^icion strange as any fiction.
It develops that in the early '80s Tom Bradford, a miner thought
to have been (juite successful, suddenly disappeared. No clue was
obtained to his whereabouts; it was believed that he had met with foul
play, and suspicion rested on J. M. White. At this time, so the story
goes, Dave Hughes and old man Caldwell were interested believers in
spiritualism and gave seances and table rappings. At one of these
performances they announced that Bradford had met his death at
the hands of White. Great excitement ensued in the cam]i and
White's denial of yuilt was not believed.
I
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 47
Mr. White, by means of letters to almost every town in the state,
finally located Bradford and received letters convincing the neighbors
of his innocence. In one of these letters Bradford stated that he had
buried some gold in Gordon's Gulch, described the location and told
White to get it and keep it to repay him for the trouble he had ex-
perienced. Mr. White and his sons searched Gordon's Gulch over and
over, but failed to discover the treasure.
In 1907 Bradford returned, having lost his eyesight and one arm
through a dynamite explosion, and is now known as "Blind Tom."
Securing a guide, Tom Willard, in Delano, Blind Tom arrived in Gor-
don's Gulch and by describing the location, which was by a chimney
and near a flat rock surface, was conducted to the spot. A little dig-
ging vmearthed gold iu various tin cans to the amount of twenty-five
pounds.
Following the Civil war the failing output of the mines caused a
lessened prosperity. The lack of transportation facilities was severely
felt and many endeavors were made to secure rail connections.
Cattle raising continued profitable and herds were increased.
The discovery of the immense grazing territory of the Sierras gave an
impetus to sheep raising, and wool became the principal product.
The completion of the railroad through Goshen and Tulare in
1872, with the westward branch through lianford in 1877 caused a
rush of settlers. These either purchased land of the railroad or
acquired title by pre-emption of homestead. The population increased
very rapidly and farming on a large scale had its inception. Irrigating
enterprises on a large scale were inaugurated.
It must be remembered that the county by this time had been
greatly reduced in area, Kern having been cut off in 1856, and Fresno
and Inyo in 1866.
The "No Fence" law of 1871, passed just before the coming
of the railroad, rendered farming practicable and now commenced
the era of wheat growing. Immense ranches were sown to the
cereal, an acreage of from five to twenty thousand in one body not
being unusual. A section, or 640 acres, was considered a small farm.
Tulare became the banner wlieat producing county of the state.
Fourteen thousand carloads were shipped in one season. Tiie con-
struction in 1888 of the east side branch of the Southern Pacific,
passing through the Dinuba, Exeter, Porterville and Ducor country,
brought an immense acreage of fine wheat lands into cultivation.
Sheep raising, meanwhile, since the disastrous dronglil of '77. had
l)een declining.
In 1890 the county experienced what may he tci-nuHl its third
boom. The extraordinary yields and prolits of fruit raising had
48 TULARE AND KINGS COrNTIES
been demonstrated by the crop sales of orchards in the two jjreceding
years and now a general rush to ijlant trees took place. Prol)ably
fifteen thousand acres were set to trees and vines in this season.
The discovery of the adaptability of the foothill belt to citrus
fruits, the finding of subterranean rivers, and the exploitation of the
power of the mountain streams were incidents of the succeeding
years. Dairying, conducted at first on a small scale with inconsider-
able profit, became shortly, from the increasing necessities of the
rapidly growing city of Los Angeles, an industry of great im-
portance.
In general, the history of the county duriug tlie last fifteen years
has been the prosaic development caused by the flourishing growth
of industry, accounts of which are given under separate headings.
I
TULARE AND KIXG>S C(3UNTIES 49
CHAPTER VII
EXETER AND OTHER TOWNS
When, ill 1888, tlie railroad coiistraction crew struck tlie town-
site of Exeter they found themselves in the grain field of Jolin W.
Firelniugh. Behind them and hefore them stretched other fields
of wheat. A few farm houses were in sight, but there was no vestige
of a town, nor did it appear likeh' that there ever would be.
The Pacific Improvement Compan}-, who had platted the town
and owned the "city," found the sale of lots slow indeed. A black-
smith shop, opened by John Hamilton, a store conducted by George
W. Kirkinan, a saloon and later a hotel constituted for several years
the Exeter business establishments, and it was not until 1S9'2 tliat
a second general store, opened by R. H. Stevens, liecarae necessary.
At this time there were only two brick buildings in town, and tlie
remainder consisted largely of mere shacks.
Not until 1894 did the first stirring of life manifest itself. George
W. Frost and associates in that year commenced the extensive orange
plantings at "Bonnie Brae," a short distance east of town. Not,
however, until about half a dozen years after this, when these
orchards came into bearing, did the community realize the value
of the land adjoining and since then growth has been very rapid.
A bank, now called the First National Bank of Exeter, became neces-
sary as early as 1901, and in 1912 the banking business had so grown
as to justify the advent of another, the Citrus Bank.
Exeter now has a ]jopulation of thirteen hundred, with an
assessed valuation of city i)roiiei-ty of $388,000. The business section
is constructed almost wholly of brick, many of the buildings l)eing
of two stories with handsome pressed brick fronts. Business is not
confined to a few large emporiums, l)ut distril>uted among a score
of ])rosperous merchants.
At two elections attempts to incorporate Exeter were defeated
because of the opposition caused by the inclusion of much farm
projierty within the i)ro])osed cori)orate limits.
On March 2, 1911, the measure carried and under the leadership
of the following officers the city commenced its career: Boanl of
Trustees, G. E. Waddell, president; W. P. Ballard, J. F. Duncan.
James Kirk, W. A. Waterman; city marshal, C. E. ^lackey; city
treasurer, E. H. Miles; city recorder, W. B. Moore.
The first imi)ortant measure for the city's welfare undertaken
was the establishment of a municipal water system, a public service
previously in private hands and furnishing inadequate service. Bonds
50 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES
in the sum of $42,000 were voted in 1911 and this year witnessed the
completion and commencement of operation on a fine municipal
plant. About nine miles of piping thoroughly cover the city and
provide for its needs for several years. Four wells furnish a more
than adequate supply of pure water and a storage capacity of 100,-
000 gallons gives good fire protection.
Modern school buildings are a feature, the high school liuilding,
constructed in 1910 at a cost of $10,000, being particularly handsome.
The high school has been in operation but four years, yet six teachers
are emj^loyed and a seventh has become necessary. In this connec-
tion illustrative of the city's recent rapid growth it may be stated
that last year's attendance was just double that of the preceding
year.
A very progressive Board of Trade has for many years materially
aided the advancement of city and county interests. Through its
efforts a citrus fair was held in 1909 which attracted great crowds
of visitors, not only from the county but from the large centers of
population. Both financially and as a promotion enterprise this fair
was an unqualified success.
At the present time the Board of Trade is engaged in the con-
struction of a handsome brick structure which will house the city
officers, afford room for meetings both of the board and the city
council and furnish the abode for an exhibit of the products of the
surrounding section.
Hunt Bros., a big firm of fruit cauners who are also owners
of a large orchard in the vicinity, have recently established a large
canning factory which gives employment through the season to
several hundred people.
Prior to the completion, in 1899. of the connecting line with
Visalia, Exeter was quite a stage and teaming center. Even after
this, Exeter remained the terminus for the Lemon Cove and Three
Rivers stages and when the orange and lemon orchards of the Lemon
Cove district came into bearing, the product, amounting to about a
hundred carloads per season, was hauled to Exeter to be placed
aboard ears.
The Visalia Electric Railway, completed in 1907. necessarily
wiped out this traffic, but by increasing trading, traveling and ship-
ping facilities, has been a great benefit to the city.
Exeter now has first class transportation facilities in four direc-
tions. It may be said to be on the main line and two branch lines
of the Southern Pacific as well as having an electric railway.
Aside from these connections and its central location, Exeter is
situated in a peculiarly favorable position by reason of its being
practically on the line separating the farming, dairying and deciduous
fruit district from the citrus belt. Of course, there is no real line of
demarcation and the land immediately surrounding the town is adapted
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES TjI
and devoted to l)otli cultures. Orange groves, alfalfa fields, peach
orchards and vineyards of table grapes adjoin.
Generally the farming and general fruit lands extend from the
lowlands to the west to the neighborhood of the town, and eastward
to the hills orange growing is in almost exclusive vogue.
The result is that the prosperity arising from the vahuibic
productions of the fertile soil is not intermittent, but constant tlnxnigh-
out the year. The facilities for caring for these jn-oducts are of the
best. In addition to the cannery, there is a packing house for the
shipment of fresh fruit to eastern markets, and four orange packing
establishments.
The station of Monson, on the line of the Southern Pacific north
of Visalia, is in a fine farming section and there are a number of
orchards and vineyards in the vicinity. It is a small village; the
school employs one teacher.
Two miles north of Three Rivers is the postoffice and stage station
known as Kaweah. It is located beside a picturesquely tree and vine
bordered streamlet that is a feeder to the north fork of the Kaweah
river. Much tillable land in large part devoted to apple orchards
lies hereabouts and the neighborhood is, for a mountain settlement,
well populated. There is a daily stage to Lemon Cove and during the
summer mouths a stage is run from this point to Giant Forest.
NOKTH TULE
North Tule is the name given to the fertile valley of the Tule
river after it issues from the western slopes of the Sierras, in the
southeastern part of Tulare county. The valley is about thirty
miles long with an average width of five miles and with numerous
side valleys entering it. The soil is very fertile and has long been
known for its fine apples. Many villages and settlements are found
along the valley, among which are Milo, Cramer, Baldwin Flats,
Duncan's Flat, Springville, Globe and China Flats.
Anotlier of the stations of note on the line of tlic Sunt hern
Pacific is the flourishing town of Pixley. It is in a rich farming dis-
trict and is an important point for grain dealers. It is in the artesian
country and large alfalfa fields have been sown, and dairying is
coming to the front. There is a fine school house, hotel and several
mercantile houses. Much of the lands aljout the town were owned by
people of San Francisco and they named it in honor of the talented
Frank Pixley, founder and editor of the Argonaut.
5-_' TULARK AND KIXCJS COUNTIES
TIPTON
The town of Tiiiton liad its origin with the eoniinn' of tlie
Sonthern Paciiic Railway and was made a depot. It is in the midst
of a rich farming and dairying country, and some of the people
have i)lanted orchards. It is the natural shipping point for a large
part of the lower Tule country, but the town has not grown with the
rapidity of other places. It has a number of mercantile and other
business houses and the business men are confidently expecting that
in the next few years there will be a large influx of people. There
are a number of artesian wells in the vicinity and the dairy business
is growing to be of great importance.
The most southerly town in the county on the line of the rail-
road is Alila. It is in the country between the sinks of Deer creek
and White river, and in the artesian belt. It thus has a rich and
\'aluable country around it. There are good warehouses and a large
amount of grain is handled here. The school and church are well
represented and there are a number of business houses in town.
POPLAR
Poplar is not the name of a town, but rather of a rich farming
country west and south from Porterville, and being southeastward
from the Woodville country. It is a famous stockraising section and
also a fine country for grain. In the early days the land owners
here united and brought in a suijjtly of water from the Tule river.
This was by means of the Bid ditch. A co-operative company was
formed and estal)lished a general merchandising house that is still
doing hnsines
FR.\ZTER
One of the most beautiful sections of Tulare county is Frazier
valley, whicJi lies about twenty-five miles east and south of Tulare
City. It l)orders the Tule river above where the river emerges into
the more open plains. It has a postoffice and a number of farms
and orchards. It is, with its side valleys, some fifteen miles long
and five miles wide. The valley is now attracting much attention as
being a choice locality for early fruit and vegetables. It is finely
watered and is comparatively free from frosts.
WOODVTLLE
The name Woodville was given to a rich farming country lying
along the south side of Tule river, eight miles west from Porterville
and twenty miles south of Visalia. It derived its title from the
extensive groves of white oak covering the country. A store was
established at an nwly date and a postoffice located there, besides
TULARE AND TvINGS COUNTIES 5:?
a schoolhouse, and ])eople iu the neighborhood are beginning to put
out orchards and hope in a few years to have a prosperous town
there. The soil is very rich, and alfalfa fields are becoming
numerous and much attention is ])aid of late to dairying.
STKATHMORE
One of the late towns to spring up in Tulare county is Sti'ath-
more, and it lias from the first shown a lusty growth. On the line
of the railway between Lindsay and Porterville it is the depot for
one of the fine orange districts of the county. At the citrus fair held
in Visalia in 1910 Strathmore made a remarkably fine exlnbit of
citrus and deciduous fruits, olives, pomegranates and other products.
ESHOM VALLEY
A few miles east of Badger lies the mountain dale called P^shoni
Valley, one of the beauty spots of the county. The valley is several
miles long and in places a mile wide. Though situated at a high
elevation not far below the edge of the pines, the soil is warm and
fertile and farm crops, vegetables, ])erries, apples, etc., produce
exceedingly well. There is much good grazing land in the vicinity
and the hills being thickly wooded with acorn-bearing oaks, hog
raising has proven a profitable branch of the stock raising industry.
The climate is so tempered by the altitude that it has become
a resort favored by tourists iu summer. Eshom Valley is of historic
interest as being once the home of a great tribe of Indians whose
powerful chief, Wuk-sa-che, more than once led them to victory in
battle with the Monaches. The Indian name of the valley was
"Cha-ha-du," "a place where clover grows the year round." Or-
lando Barton states that when he first visited the valley, in the
'60 's, he saw droves of Indians eating clover there.
The valley was visited as early as 1857 by James Fisher and
Thomas Davis, and derived its name from Mr. Eshom, one of the
first residents, who settled there and engaged in farming. In 1862
Jasper Harrell laid claim to the valley Imt did not succeed in holding
it. His foreman, J. B. Breckenridge, was killed by the Indians
in 1863.
.\LPAUGir
In early days Tulare lake covered a much greater area than at
present. Near its southeastern end existed a large islaud owned
by Judge Atwell of Visalia, and known at Atwell's Island. Long
since the waters of the lake have subsided, the island no longer
exists, but its location is marked by the growing town of Alpaugh.
The whole section hereabouts was for many years used liy Miller &
Lux as a jiastui'e for their immense herds of cattle. The lands were
deemed unlit for agricultural i)uri)Oses.
54 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES
In 1905 a syndicate of Los Angeles capitalists obtained control
of 8861 acres, comprising Atwell's Island, and placed it on the
market in small tracts on easy terms. A large number of purchasers
were found and these, with their families — two hundred and twelve
persons in all — came up to settle. So general was the idea among old
residents of the county that this land ,was worthless that the enter-
])rise was "knocked" on all sides. Every Alpaugh colonist was
told that he was an "easy mark." The Yisalia Board of Trade
seriously considered the passing of a resolution condemning the laud
sale as a swindle, but were dissuaded from hasty action by Ben M.
Maddox.
The colonists did have trouble. With most of them funds were
scarce, and many had to leave temporarily. There was trouble in
getting a supply of good water. Perseverance overcame these
obstacles. A school district was organized in 1906, a church and
school house erected and home building was recommenced. Suc-
cessful experiments in raising alfalfa and vegetables were con-
ducted, artesian wells were sunk and a supply of water obtained,
this not sufficient, however, for irrigation purposes. But the wells
put down were found of double value. Besides water, they sup-
])lied a natural gas that can be used for heating and lighting.
The colonists have increased in numbers and much activity is
shown in raising vegetables. Quite a business has been established
in the canning of tomatoes, peas, etc. The raising of garden seeds
for the market has proved especially profitable and it has been
found that the fine silt soil is peculiarly adapted to the production
of asparagus, onions and other vegetables. The colonists have
arranged to get a bountiful sui)ph- of water for irrigating purposes
from the Smyrna wells, distant a few miles south.
South and west from Alpaugh much work is being done in the
reclamation of submerged lake lands by the construction of levees.
Alpaugh is situated eight miles south and west from Angiola. The
Santa Fe railroad contemplates the building of a spur to connect
Alpaugh with the main line, and this, it is believed, will not lie
delayed, as shipments fully warrant it.
TAGUS
"While the name Tagus, ai)])lied to the switch on tlie Soutliern
Pacific track aliout midway between Goshen and Tulare, is not
worthy of mention, the neighboring country, or Tagus district, is.
The Tagus ranch of several thousand acres devoted to dairying,
alfalfa and grain farming has ])roven exceptionally ])rofitable, espe-
cially since the experiment on it of raising sugar beets. Of neces-
sity cultivation for this purpose was very deep and thorough and
crops since have been extraordinarily large. The neighborhood is
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 55
almost exclusively devoted to alfalfa and dairying. Probably no
district in the county delivers more butter fat to the creameries in
proportion to its area than the Tagus section.
GOSHEN
The town of Goshen, seven miles west of Visalia, dates its his-
tory from the completion of the railroad to that point, in May, 1872
Here the contemplated branch of the Southern Pacitic from San
Francisco by way of Gilroy, Tres Pinos and Huron, was to join
the line of the Central Pacific, proceeding from Stockton south. A
passenger and a freight depot was built, large numbers of lots sold,
and it was thought that before many years Goshen would become
an important city.
The construction, in 1874, of the Visalia-Goshen railway inspired
renewed hopes in the future of the town as a great railway center.
In 1876 work was commenced on the westerly branch, running
through the Mussel Slough country, and supposed to make connec-
tions at Tres Pinos. This road got as far as Alcalde only.
However, Goshen did become the railroad center of the coimty
and of the San Joaquin valley. Geographically, it is admirably
situated, lying midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles,
within touching distance on. the one hand of Visalia and Exeter
and on the other with Hanford and Coalinga. Surrounding it lie
extensive tracts, suitable for fruit, vines or alfalfa. Several produc-
tive and lucrative orchards and vineyards in tiie vicinity attest tlie
adaptability of the soil.
Notwithstanding these apparent advantages, Goshen still re-
mains a small village. The cause of this failure to grow lies no
doubt in the fact that the soil surrounding the depot is alkaline in
character and unfavorably impresses home-seekers looking from the
windows of a ear.
A few years ago Goshen was made a sub-station on the Asso-
ciated Oil Company's pipe line. A number of neat cottages for the use
of employes were erected and these, while situated in the question-
able soil spoken of, are now surrounded by lawns and gardens
creditable to any locality.
Within the last few years the exceedingly fertile character of
Goshen lands has become known to many investors. Orchards and
vineyards have been planted on a considerable scale and it is be-
lieved that rapid and at the same time solid and substantial growth
awaits the village kept so long dormant.
P.4IGE
station (
in
the
S;
lilt;
1 !•'.
the larg
('
settU
'UK
■lit
tlia
Paige is the name of a station on the Santa l'"f. west from
Tulare. It is the deiiot tV
56 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
up on and around the great Paige & Morton ranch, wMch once
claimed the largest vineyard in the world, besides having extensive
orchards and grain lands. A considerable part of it has in the past
few years been sold in small holdings. Thus an important settle-
ment is being made there, and the surrounding country is rapidly
becoming a great dairy section.
ANGIOLA
Angiola dates its history from the coming of the Santa Fe
railroad. It is in the lake region on the main line of the railroad
running south from Hanford to Bakersfield. It is an important
place now for supplying the rapidly growing lake country. It is in
the artesian belt, and tlie surrounding country is very fertile. The
greater jiart of the soil is rich silt, capable of producing all kinds of
crops. Grain and alfalfa predominate, although a considerable acre-
age is being used for beet raising. The large sugar factory at Cor-
coran is largely dependent upon the lake lands for the supply
of beets.
YETTEM
Lying north of Visalia about sixteen miles is a rich farming
district formerly known as Churchill. It is along the base of the
low foothills and has an exceptionally rich soil and comparative
freedom from frosts. A few years ago a colony of Armenians
bought property here and put out vineyards and orchards. From
the fine gardens and rapid growth of tree and vine the Armenians
named the settlement Yettem, "Garden of Eden." There is now a
general store, a school and a fine church as the nucleus of a town,
lying about a mile east of the line of the Santa Fe. The station now
called Yettem was formerly called Lowell.
PLANO
The town of Piano might well be called South Porterville, as it
lies south of that town and just across tlie Tule river. The name
was suggested by its location in the great, beautiful plain sweeping
down from the foothills of the Sierras and extending out westwardly.
This plain is one of the fairest, and the elegant homes that have
been made liere and that still are being established receive an
additional charm from the grand view of the snow-capped Sierras
to the east.
Being on the main stage road leading from Visalia to Los
Angeles, and to the Kern river and Owens valley mining districts, it
was in early times a stage station. William Thompson was its first
pioneer merchant and postmaster. Dr. F. A. Johnson was its
earliest physician. Here it was that the first oranges in Tulare
county were raised. As noted elsewhere, D. Gibbons here planted
TULARP] AND KINGS COUNTIES 57
a few trees in bis yard, and some of them are still bearing fruit.
It is now grown to be a great orange center, with pleasant homes,
schools, churches, etc. As a suburb of Porterville, the social ad-
vantages incident to populous communities are shared, while by its
separation from the bustling city the charm of suburban life remains
unimpaired.
THREE RIVERS
Twenty-eight miles east of Visalia at the junction of the forks
of the Kaweah river in the foothills, lies the village of Three Rivers.
The Three Rivers country may properly be considered to embrace
the territory included in Three Rivers voting precinct, which extends
southerly to Yokohl, westerly to Lemon Cove, northerly to Eshom
and easterly to Inyo county, an area of twenty-one townships.
The first known white man to enter this section was Hale D.
Tharpe, a stockman, who came in the fall of 1858. Tlie Works
family, William Swanson and family, John Lovelace and family,
Joseph Palmer, A. Everton, Ira Blossom and family, followed soon
after and were the ])ioneers of the settlement.
At the time of Mr. Tharpe 's arrival Indians in the vicinity
were very numerous, the population being estimated at two thou-
sand. These tribes are now practically extinct, and in this vicinity
not one remains. The progress of the settlement was very slow,
there being practically no immigration until 1878, when the gold
excitement at Mineral King took place. The mining activities at
Mineral King and the construction of a road to that i^lace caused
a temporary influx of residents, but the mining excitement dying-
down, the population remained practically as before.
In 1886 the Kaweah Co-operative Colony made this tlieir hnse
of operations, establishing a village on the north fork of the Kaweah.
These colonists commenced the construction of a road to the Giant
Forest and completed about twenty miles of it. This project was
abandoned in 1890, most of the colonists leaving the county. Quite
a number, however, remained and have materially aided in the
develo]iment of the district. Settlement has slowly but steadily
increased until tlie present iiojjuhition nuiiilicrs six hundred and
fifteen.
In 1878 a postoffice was established at Three Rivers; in 18!)2 at
Kaweah, on the north fork; in 1905 at Hammond, on tlie main river,
and in 1907 at Ranger (Giant Forest).
P)ritten Brothers, in 1897, opened a genei-nl iiKMclinudise store
and in 1910, the River Inn Com])any, in coiinecticui witli a hotel
situated at the junction of the nortli fork, installed another. In 1S99
the Mt. Whitney Power Comiiany put in ;i large ^lower plant, in
1905 a second was installed iuid at the present wiitinn a third and a
58 TULARE AND KIXGS COUNTIES
fourtli are in course of coustruotion. There are two good schools, a
public hall, two blacksmith shops. Au extensive telephone system
owned by the community unites the memliers of this widely scattered
settlement.
In early days the sole industry of the section was stock raisino',
the foothill country furnishing an abundance of spring feed and tlie
mountain ranges contributing the summer supply.
In the early '70s. Joe Palmer carried in on his back a few ap])le
trees and became the pioneer of an industry that now adds a con-
siderable quota to the prosperity of the region. Apples were found
to do exceedingly well and numerous orchards now dot not only the
river bottom lands of the lower sections, but are successfully grown
as far up as the pine lielt at an elevation of forty-five hundred feet.
The excellent fishing and hunting, the climatic advantages
and the scenic wonders of the higher Sierras, bring through Three
Rivers each year an increasing numlier of tourists and sj^ortsmen
and outfitting and catering to these has become an imiiortant branch
of business here.
A TALE OF INDIAN TROUBLE AT THKEE RIVERS IN EARLY DAYS.
In May, 1857, the A\"orks and Pemberton families had sold a
herd of cattle and had considerable money. A few days after the
sale transaction a band of some eighty or ninety Indians came over
from the Owens River valley and established camp just across
the Kaweah river from the Works' house. Many of the Indians
bore firearms, and amongst them was one man that had recently
killed a white man on the Owens river without cause or provocation,
and was wearing the dead man's clothes at the time. On the 25th
of the month, when the men settlers were away looking after their
stock, a portion of the Indians looted the premises of Pemberton
and Works. When the men returned home and saw what had
transpired, Joseph Palmer, H. Works and Pemberton immediately
started out for the camp of the Indians to adjust matters. Wliile
enroute to the Indian camp they met six Indians and told them of the
depredations they had committed. Immediately the Indian that had
killed the man at Owens river made an attempt to draw a pistol,
whereui)on Josejih Palmer struck the Indian ujion the head with his
gun, instantly killing hiuL Following, several shots were fired at
close range from both sides in wliicli three or four Indians wei'e
killed, and the whites not injured. The Indians all left the country
the same evening, after which 1he dead Indians were all buried by
the whites.
This was the lirst. last, and onlv trouble with tlic Indians.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 59
SPRIXGVILLE
Among the hamlets which of recent years liave attracted umisnal
attention among- residents of the soutiieru end of the county Jis
well as among visiting prospective settlers is the town of Spring-
ville, situated about sixteen miles eastward from Porterville at an
elevation of 1072 feet.
The village lies near the Tule river, below the junction of the
north fork with the main channel, and takes its name from a splendid
soda spring found there, the waters of which are noted for their
agreeable taste and for their curative properties. The town is
frequently referred to as the "Gateway to the Sierras," as from
it diverge roads and trails reaching many mountain points of interest.
Its chief fame, however, rests upon the superb quality of apples
grown in the neighborhood. These have taken prizes wh.erever
exhibited and their jiroduction has l)ecome extensive. Oranges are
also largely grown and with success, comi)arative freedom from
frosts being enjoyed.
Originally the town was named Daunt, from William G. Daunt,
a pioneer settler who ojiened a store during the '60s. The origin
of the present village, however, dates from 1889, when A. M. Coburn,
a lumberman operating a mill in the mountains, purchased a tract
of land originally taken up by John Crabtree, and set aside eighteen
acres as a townsite.
The prospective value of the springs was one of the inducements
for purchasers of the lots, and the town to be was given the name
Soda Springs. A school house and a building intended to be used
as a sanitarium were the only structures on the land. The vision
of a famous "spa" did not materialize, but as Mr. Coburn built a
box factory and planing mill and sold lots and lumber on easy terms
to his employees, a numl)er of houses were Iniilt and a nucleus of a
town started. The "sanitarium" was converted inti) a hotel and
later torn down for the erection of the ]n-esent Springville hotel.
The postoffice was at Mr. Daunt 's place, nearly a mile down
the river. Originally mail had been brought from ^"isalia twice a
week, Charles Lawless being the carrier. Later it was sent from
Tulare by way of Woodville, Porterville and Piano. On the com-
pletion of the railroad to Porterville a daily mail by stage from that
place was established.
In 1890 Mr. Coburn bought out Mr. Daunt 's store and mo\-ed it
and the postoffice to the jn-esent site. The name "Daunt" for the
postoffice was continued for several years by reason of the fact that
there was a Springville jiostoffice in Ventura county. This latter
having lapsed, the name "S]>ringville" applies now to the postoffice
as well as the town.
fiO TULAKE AND KIXGS COUNTIES
MINEEAL KING
Sixty miles east of Visalia, reached via Lemon Cove and Three
E.ivers, at the source of the east fork of the Kaweah river, lies the
mountain valley, Mineral King. Here, at an altitude of eight thou-
sand feet, the summer climate is cool and invigorating, and this,
together with the numerous nearhy scenic attractions, the abundant
wild feed, the good fishing and its position as the furthermost moun-
tain point accessible to wagons, has caused it to become a resort
visited in summer by multitudes of people.
Saw Tooth, a peak of thirteen thousand feet, towers directly
aliove. From its summit a wonderful view of towering peaks,
divides, declivities and nestling lakes are obtained. Monarch lake
and Eagle lake lie close to camp and are readily visited. Soda and
other mineral springs abound.
The valley heads at Farewell Gap, a pass of 10,600 feet elevation
dividing the waters of the Kaweah from those of the Little Kern.
Over it pass the trails leading to Trout Meadows, to Kern Lakes,
to Mt. Whitney and to Inyo county. There are also trails leading
from Mineral King to the Giant Forest over Timber Gap, to the
Hockett Meadows over Tar Gap, as well as one leading directly to
Kern Lakes.
Many people from the valley have l)uilt -cabins and have a per
manent summer camp here. There is a stable summer population
of about two hundred, and the total number of visitors, yearly
increasing, is over one thousand. There is a store, postoffice and
a telephone line to the valley.
But time was when the activities here were of an entirely
different nature. Gold was discovered here in the earh' '70s and
hundreds of miners flocked to the scene. The Mineral King Mining
District was formed and locations and transfers filed under the
Federal laws. A town of about five hundred inhabitants sprung
up and was named Beulah. Stamp and saw mills were erected. A
road from Three Elvers, passing over a very difficult territory, was
built at an expenditure of about $100,000. At one time daily stages
from ^'isalia made the entire distance in one day.
• A clear idea of the glory of Reulali in 1870, the year Avhich
marked its greatest prosi^erity, may be gaineil hy the following, from
the pen of Judge W. B. Wallace:
"Ex-Senator Fowler had purchased the Empire mine and with
characteristic energy was completing the road, erecting a quartz
mill and tramway, and driving a long tunnel into the mountain.
Things were moving that year. A sawmill was in operation and
ealiins were going up in all directions. An assay office was estab-
lished and mines wei'e located bv tlie hundreds. .
TULAKK AX1)KL\(;S COI^XTIES 61
"Tlie N. P]. Tunuel ami Smelting Conipany was incorporated
in 1875, another was organized in 1876, and the White Chief Gold
and Silver Mining Companj^ was called into being in 1880. But the
year 1879 w^as the most fruitful in the production of these artificial
persons for that camp. That year ten companies were organized
with an aggregate capital stock which would put to shame that little
kerosene side issue of the Standard Oil Company. * * *
"At the general election held in 1879, the candidates for
lieutenant governor and chief justice of the supreme court received
one hundred thirty-seven votes for each office and the candidates
for superior judge, assemlilyman and district attorney received one
hundred thirty-six votes in Mineral King.
"There were ten and perhaps twelve places where intoxicating
liquors were sold, and events proved that the recorder, who received
$5 for recording every location notice, and the saloon men worked
the only paying mines. But there was very little riotousness and
disorder. There were no such essentially bad men there as are
usually foimd in new mining camps, with notched pistol handles and
private burying grounds to which they could point with lilood-
curdling suggestions. There was but one shooting affray that I
recall. It grew out of a dispute over the right to the possession of
a small ti'act of land. One of the participants received a slight
wound. * » *
"There are but two graves in Mineral King. In the late '70s,
early in the spring, one of the newcomers went to Kedwood Meadow
on foot, taking no provisions with him. A snow storm came on
which fenced him in. In two or three days he started to return,
crossed Timber 6a]i and struggled through the snow until within a
(|uarter of a mile of the camp. He called for help and was heard,
but his voice was not recognized as that of a human being and the
next morning his frozen body was found where he had evidently
sat down, exhausted, and after vainly calling ha<l given u\t the
struggle.
"When John lleinlen was ])ros])ecting the ^VIlitt' Cliicf mine.
two of his minei-s were carried down the mountainside and hurled in
an avalanche of snow. One was found and dug out alive, but the
body of the other was not recovered until the spring thaw.
"In the early days Orlando Barton was the Nestor of the
cam]), having the most extended and varied fund of knowledge. James
Maukins and John Crabtree were perhaps the best prospectors.
John Meadows was the most enthusiastic and confident of the early
locators, rating his i)ossessions worth a million dollars. He was a
fanner, a stockraiser. a miner, a pi-eadier. and a fightei-. hut withal
a brave, honest and conscientious man.
"J. T. Traugei', who came in l'(n- the New England Company as
6-2 TULARP: and kings C'OUNTIES
its superiuteudeut, aud the last recorder of the district, was known
to all and was a favorite in the district. His wife was for years
the good angel of the camp, whose cheerful disposition, sterling
qualities and strength of character won for her the respect and
admiration of all the curiously assorted denizens of the district.
The trail was never too rough, nor the night too dark to keep her
from the bedside of the suffering miner whose cry of distress was
heard, whether stricken by sickness, crushed in an avalanche of
•snow or mangled In- an untimely blast.
"Politicians early discovered the necessity of winning the
Mineral King voters, and several political meetings were held there
when local orators avowed in various forms their willingness to
forego many personal pleasures that they might serve the country.
"Itinerant ministers also preached to the assembled people, not
from great cathedrals decorated with paintings of the old masters,
nor accompanied l)y the music of grand organs, but in those groves
which were God's first temples, where swaying pine and mountain
streams made music, under a great dome painted by the Master's
hand, set with a thousand gems and softly lighted by the moon's pale
beams, and where all nature joined in anthems of praise.
"Mineral King was a silver camp and many of the old |)ros-
pectors were actually silverized. In white, seamless rock they
would point out wire silver and horn silver. They named the lakes
and the ledges silver and saw and admired the silver lining to every
cloud. The very word had such a fascinatiou for them that they
talked in soft, silvery tones. They pricked up their ears when
silver gray foxes were alluded to and stood at attention when the
old bear hunters spoke of the silver-tipped grizzly, and as they lay
down at night and gazed at the full orbed moon, they viewed it as
the original of the silver dollar, having milled edges and a lettered
fiat surface, and wondered whether what they had looked at from
infancy as the man in the moon might not after all lie a mint im-
in-ession of the American eagle."
But the mines proved but tlie graxeyard of many fortunes.
Notliing came of them but disaster and tlie little town was abou-
(lont'd. Many of tlie homes were left aud for years were used l)y
jieoplo who went u]i into the valley for a summer outing, liut the
snows and tlie rains lia\e destroyed them all.
TliAXEIi
Traver was founded April 8, 1884, or ratlier. that was the date
when town lots were sold at auction. The town owes its origin
entirely to the construction of the '7(i canal and is the only ]ilace
on the line of the Southern Pacific railroad not originally owned
bv thai corporation. However, the Southern Pacilic olitained an
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES 63
interest in the property before they would consent to the estiihlish-
ment of a depot there.
Traver is three miles south of Kings ri\er. Tlie bottom lauds
of the stream are exceedingly fertile and capable of producing- every
known product grown in California. It was named after Charles
Traver, a capitalist of Sacramento, who was interested in the 76
canal enterprise. At the time of the sale of lots, excursions were run
from San Francisco and from Los Angeles. The sales on April 8,
1884, aggregated $65,000. The only house then in Traver was a
small structure that had been moved from Cross Creeks, and occu-
])ie(l l)y Kitchener & Co. as a store. Buildings were soon erected
and a thriving town ensued. Traver has suffered gj.-eatly from fires,
but is still a thriving place, and center of a valuable farming, fruit
raising and dairying section. Fine schools, lodges and churches are
supplied.
HOCKETT MEADOWS
The Plockett meadows, containing about one hundred sixty
acres of land lying on the plateau region near the head waters of
the south fork of the Kaweah, are desirable camping places. The
elevation is about eighty-five hundred feet and in consequence the
climate during the summer is cool and bracing. There is the
greatest abundance of feed, both here and in all the surrounding
country. Lake Evelyn, one of the most beautiful of mountain lakes,
is distant about three miles. There is excellent trout fishing in
Hoekett meadow creek, in Horse creek, one and one-half miles away,
and in the waters of the south foi-k, two miles away.
The park line is distant but a mile and a half, so that hunting
for deer, which are here numerous, is within easy reach. There
are trails to Mineral King and to Little Kern river, each distiint
al)Out eight miles.
EEDBANKS
Eedbanks, the terminal station of the N'isalia electric road, is
situated about fifteen miles northwest of N'isalin, and takes its name
from the pro])erties of the Eedbanks Orchard Company, which
adjoin.
This orchard, one of the largest in the county and the only
one devoted exclusively to the production of deciduous fruits for
the eastern market, is located on the si)ur ol' liill known as Colvin's
Point. Probably no \y.\vt of Tulare county more vividly sets forth
the rai)id change from i)arche(l pasture lands to green gardens and
productive orchards. This orchard venture of some thirteen hun-
dred and fifty acres had its inception in 1!)04. when P. :M. P.aier, Dr.
^\. W. Squires and Charles Joannes purchased a considerable acre-
age, since adding to it. ^Ir. l^.aier, fornierl\- managei' for the Earl
64 TULARI5 AND KINGS COUNTIES
Fruit Company, aud a man of the widest knowledge of deciduous
fruit growing aud marljeting, bad become convinced by observatiou
of vegetable growtli in tbe Aicinit>', tliat bere was a remarkably early
section, tbe products of wbicb sbould bring extremely bigb ])rices in
tbe eastern market.
No care or expense bas been spared on tbe orcbard and tbe
result bas exceeded expectations. Carloads of several varieties of
fruits aud table grapes are now sbipped from bere eacb season
several days in advance of consignments forwarded from any otber
point in tbe state.
WHITE RIVER
Wbite Eiver, situated near tbe junction of tbe middle and soutb
forks of Wbite river, about twenty-six miles soutbeast of Piano,
arrived at early fame tbrougb tbe discovery bere by D. B. James,
of gold. Tbis was followed by a wild stampede of miners and a
typical early day miuing town called "Tailbolt," sprang up at once.
Stores and sbops, saloons, dance balls, gambling bouses, stage
station, a quartz mill and a graveyard became necessary to supply
tbe needs of tbe inbabitants and were provided.
Seven men were soon "planted" in tbe last mentioned place,
all dying witb tbeir boots on. It appears tbat eacb of tbese was
named Dan, but bistory is silent in regard to wby tbe liearing of
tbat name was of peculiar bazard.
In addition to tbe mining conducted in tbe vicinity, tbe town
prosi)ered by reason of being on tbe route to tbe Kern and (Owens
river mining districts. It l^ecame tbe source of supplies to tbou-
sands of miners, and tbe princi])al town in tbe soutberu portion of
tbe county.
In all tbese districts, bowever. wbile considerable gold was taken
out, tbere appeared to l)e no large deposits of tbe precious metal.
Pockets, wbile ricb, soon petered out and tbe glory of tbe village
lasted but a few years. A score or more miners remained to work
claims at a small ])rofit, a business wbicb continues to tbis day.
At one time lumbering developed into tiuite an industry from
tbe saw mills operated in tbe adjacent pineries.
Of recent years stockraising bas been tbe principal source of
revenue to tbe inbabitants of tbe district, altbougb tbe citrus belt
is extending to tbe neigbborbood and tbe jiossibilities of a]iplo
culture afford prospective reasons for future develoinnent.
THE GI.A.NT FOREST
Tbis, Ibe largest grove of giant sequoias in tbe jtark, and in tbe
world, is situated at an altitude of from six to seven tbousand five
bundi-ed feet, on a ])lat('au iving between tbe middle and Marble
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 65
forks of the Kaweali river, at a distance (by road) of about sixty
miles from Visalia. There are within it over five thousand trees
of a diameter of ten feet or more, together with many monsters
whose diameter ranges from twenty-tive to thirty feet. The General
Sherman tree, whose circumference six feet above the ground is one
hundred nine feet, is considered to be the largest in the world. Its
age is estimated at six thousand years. Other large groves are
the Dorst, situated in the northwest corner of the park, and Gar-
field, lying a short distance southeast of the Giant Forest, and the
Muir, which stands on the south side of the south fork of tlie
Kaweah, about twenty miles above Three Rivers.
The Giant Forest was discovered by Hale Tharjie in the early
'60s, and named by John Muir in 1890.
Camp Sierra, as the site chosen for Jiotel and camii grounds
is called, is delightfully situated alongside a little meadow, amidst
groves of sequoias and firs.
Among the nearby points of interest may be mentioned the
Marble Falls, nine hundred sixty feet in height; Admiration Point,
whence precipices of two thousand feet on three sides confront ; Sunset
Rock, affording a beautiful open view of the valley, and Morro Rock,
a monolith eighteen hundred feet in vertical height, which overlooks
the canyon of the middle fork of the Kaweah. From its summit
is obtained a near view of many snow-covered peaks, ranging from
ten to fourteen thousand feet in height, a clear view of the Kaweah,
almost a mile below, of the San Joaquin valley beyond, and of the
coast range of mountains, visible for perhaps two hundred miles of
their length.
Then there are the Ijeautiful Twin Lakes, situated at an altitude
of nearly ten thousand feet, distant eleven miles. Flanked at oai;
side by banks of almost perpetual snow, overlooked by precijiitous
liluffs of granite, the crystal clear waters mirroring ])erfectly tlie
bordering rocks and tamarack groves, they form a picture tliat li\-es
long in memory.
Easy to visit are Log, Crescent and Alta meadows, each having
its peculiar charms; there is the "house tree," so called because
in it Everton lived for five winters while engaged in trapping;
Tharpe's log cabin, a hollow tree fitted with doors and windows and
furnishings, formerly the summer home of Male Tharpe; "chinmey
trees," hollow from ground to crown, etc., etc.
There are four caves in tlio park, as follows:
Cloughs cave, situated aljout tliirteen miles above Tiiree Rivers,
on the south fork of the Kaweah river, was discovered by William
O. Clough in ISSf). Owing to its ease of access and its location on a
main route of tounst travel, it is visited by gi-eater numbers than
66 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
any of the others.
Palmers cave, discovered by Joe Palmer, is situated near Put-
nam canyon on the south fork of the Kaweah. Owing to the almost
inaccessible position of entrance, it has never been explored.
Paradise cave is located on the south side of the ridge which
separates the middle and the east forks of the Kaweah and was
discovered in 1901 by H. R. Harmon. In 1906 it was ex]ilored by
Walter Fi-y and C. W. Blossom, park rangers, and oflicially named.
OROSI
Due west from Dinuba six miles and almost directly north of
Visalia sixteen miles is situated the flourishing town and colony
of Orosi. The foothills curve around the section immediately north
of the townsite, a great deal of the colony lying in the cove thus
formed.
Prior to 1890 grain farming was practically the only industry.
There were few inhabitants. By reason of insufficient rainfall
crops were not sure and there was no material progress. The
extension of the Alta Irrigation district to this section and the
subdivision of the lands into ten, twenty and forty acre tracts
rapidly worked a marvelous change, and the district now is thickly
settled and solidly ]3lanted to orchards and vineyards in small
holdings. The avenues which criss-cross the tracts are well-kept,
many of these are bordered by fig, almond, or other fruit trees of
a different kind from that to which the orchard is set, and as fences
have generally been removed both from the roadside and boundary
lines, a very unique and pleasing effect is produced.
In 1890 or 1891, at the same time as the heavy initial planting
of grapes and peaches, several small orange orchards were set. These
duly came into bearing and demonstrated the adaptability of the
Orosi country for oranges. Quite recently large acreages in the
vicinity have been planted to this fruit and there have been heavy
purchases of land lying in adjoining coves for this purpose.
The town of Orosi maintains three general merchandise stores,
many shops, two banks, handsome school buildings for both granunar
and high school grades, a hotel and branch library.
It was quite a disappointment to the citizens of Orosi when
the Santa Fe passed the town by leaving it a mile and a half from
Cutler, the nearest station. The town and colony continued to grow,
however, and it is now confidently believed by the residents that the
"Tide Water and Southern" will be extended to pass through
Orosi.
XAKANJO
The name Naranjo (Spanish for orange tree) is given to the
citrus district lying along the foothills north of" Lemon Cove and
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES (57
across the Kaweali river. It was tlie first section north of the river
to be set to fruit aud is now a heavy producer of oranges and
grape fruit. The orchardists have their own packing house and are
served by the Visalia electric railroad. There is a store and post-
office. Westward, Naranjo merges into the newer Woodlake district.
MONSON
Situated on the Southern Pacific's east side line and lying nortli
of '\^isalia and southward from Dinuba is a small village with one
general merchandise store, a few shops, etc.
It is (|uite an important watermelon shipping point. Farming
and dairying are the ])rincipal occupations of the neighborhood on
the south, and raisin growing and deciduous fruit cultuie on tlic
north.
ORIOLE I.ODOE
Some fourteen miles alK)\e Three Kivers on the noithern Hank
of the east fork of the Kaweah, nestles heaneath the ])ines a lovely
mountain tarn called Oriole lake. Its outlet forms a picturesque
little stream which abounds in trout.
Near the lake is quite a bit of comparatively level land origin-
ally the homestead location of "Uncle Dan" Highton. The location
possessed such natural advantages for a delightful summer resort
that a number of local residents, under the leadership of A. 6.
Ogilvie, formed, in 1910, a stock company, purchased a site and are
at present engaged in the erection thereon of artistic bungalows and
other equipment. They have installed a sawmill and are cutting
the material on the groimd. The new road to Mineral King, soon
to be com])]eted. will' render the place easy of access.
VEXICE
The town of "Woodville had, in 1857, dwindled to almost nothing.
when its revival was attempted by D. B. James under the name of
\^enice. The new town was not to be on the site of the old, but
further north near the southwestern corner of the Venice hills, and
on the north side of the St. John river. At that time the St. John
river extended but a short distance furtlier west, tlicre sinking into
a swamp.
By reason of the fact that in hauling freight from Stockton
to Visalia, in order to avoid bogs and swamps, it was preferable
to travel by this route to Visalia, the new town grew and prospered.
In addition to James' store and postoffice there came to be a
saloon, boarding house, blacksmith shop, chair factory, distillery,
butcher shop and billiard hall.
In the flood of 1862, however, almost the wliole of tlie town was
destroyed, and a continuous channel was opened from the sink of
the St. John to Canoe creek and thence to Cross creek, thus forming
68 TULARP] AND IvIXGS C'OUNTIES
tlie St. Jolui river of today. Just below tlie site of the town, where
the cement rook formation in the bed of tlie river became thinner, a
fall eight feet in height was formed. During the flood of '68 this
fall was entirely channeled out, and the stream was so broadened
as to occupy much of the former townsite.
No attempt was made to rebuild the town and the settlement
in the neighborhood decreased until once again the region became
almost abandoned, and remained so until very recent years, when
the discovery of the thermal belt lying round these hills has placed
growth on a sul)stantial and |)ermanent basis, and Venice Cove,
still further north, became the center of the district's iiopulation.
Northwesterly from Venice Cove, on the Southern Pacific branch
line, is the station of Klink, lying between Taurusa on the north
and Kaweali on the south. For many years it was only a spur from
which occasional shipments of wood and fruit were made. The suc-
cess of the orange groves at Venice Cove has stimulated planting
in the similar soil abutting the railroad near Klink, so that now
quite a district is embraced by the new planting of the neighborhood.
A general store has been established and it is expected that the
railroad company will soon erect a suitable depot and install a
regular agent.
WAUKENA
About ten miles southwestward from Tulare City was a noted
stock grazing country known as the Crossmore ranch. Several
years ago a syndicate of Los Angeles capitalists purchased this
ranch of twelve thousand acres and arranged a great colony scheme.
The lands lie in the artesian belt, and there are a number of flowing
wells. Besides dividing the lands up so as to be sold in small hold-
ings, a town was laid out with broad boulevards and parks. The
place — this on-coming city — the proprietors named Waukena, the
beautiful. The tracts did not sell as readily as anticipated. On
the completion of the Santa Fe railroad from Tulare to Corcoran,
passing through the tract, a depot was established, and a small
village has grown up there. The soil in the vicinity is well adapted
to alfalfa and the rai:)idly developing dairy industry is making for
the increased pros[)erity of the neighborhood.
WOODLAKE
Woodlake, situated some fifteen miles northeasterly from ^'isalia.
between Naranjo and Redbanks and near the north shore of Bravo
lake, is a town whose growth during the three or four years of its
existence has been so phenomenal as to merit especial mention.
The town is now solidly and substantially built, having a hand-
some two-story hotel with pressed brick front; several shops, a large
TULARE AND KlX(iS COUNTIES (59
courrete iiarage, a general store, a iiewsi)ai)er, a ))ank and oilier
features. During the present year an auction sale of town lots was
held and quite liiiih prices were realized. Cement sidewalks and
graded avenues are in evidence here as in the suhurhs of a large
city.
Development of this district began in 1907, when Jason Barton,
J. W. Fewell and Adolph Sweet purchased a large tract on the east
side of Cottonwood creek, in Elder and Townsend school districts,
and situated about three miles north of Bravo lake. These men
commenced extensive development work with the view to selling off
tracts for colonists. A])undant water was found and cement pipe
built and laid to carry it to the subdivisions. A considerable acreage
was planted. This colony was called Elderwood and a store aud
postoffice of that name was established.
Now appeared on the scene Gilbert Stevenson of Los Angeles,
a man of means and of great enterprise who, greatly impressed with
the showing the young trees had made in growth and the fact that
they had remained untouched by frost, purchased a large tract to
the southward, started a colony and founded a town, calling it
Woodlake. The two districts, which merge into one are now called
by this name, although South Woodlake and North "Woodlake are
sometimes heard.
The entire section has developed with magical rapidity and the
brown hills that a few years ago were held worthless except for
a scant spring iiasturage are now set to groves and handsome
residences are building in great number.
(WLIFORXIA HOT SPRINGS
The California Hot Sjirings, formerly known as the Deer
Creek Hot Springs, were long used by the Indians, and have for
many years been a favorite camjiing s))ot for ])eople in (juest of game
or health.
These si)rings are located about thirty miles southeast of Porter-
ville, and twenty-two miles from Ducor. The s]n'ings are large
streams of water, clear and sparkling and hot, gushing out of the
rocks. Thousands of barrels run off daily into Deer creek. The
daily How is estimated at 190,000 gallons. The springs are in the
edge of the pine forest, and are surrounded ])y groves of live oak
and pine. The waters are highly charged with minerals.
The lands surrounding the si)riugs were originally taken up
by the Witt family, early settlers in that section of the county. In
1898, it was owned by T." J. and N. B. Witt. In that year the prop-
erty was sold to L. S. Wingrove, G. K. Pike and J. F. Firebaugh.
These men were from Lindsay and Exeter. In April, ItK)], Dr. C. E.
Bernard of ^'isalia, bought out the Firehaugh-Pike interests, and
until 1904 conducted the ])roperty under the name of Bernard and
70 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
"Wiugrove. Dr. Bernard having died, bis interest was in 1905 pur-
chased by S. Mitchell of A^'isalia, and J. H. Williams of Porterville.
In the following- June the owners incorporated under the name
California Hot Springs, Inc. The ])resent owners are Mrs. Edith H.
Williams, of San Diego; S. Mitchell, of Visalia; L. S. Wingrove and
Joseph Mitchell of Hot Springs.
The springs are far and widely known for their curative prop-
erties, especially for relief from rheumatic troubles, and a host of
other complaints. Some of the springs have a temi)erature of one
hundred and thirty degrees, while others are cold. The waters are
used for drinking and bathing.
The springs are reached by stages from Porterville or Ducor,
or by automobile or any other vehicle. The roads are kept in good
condition. Many from Visalia make the trip thei-e In* auto. Lying-
back in the mountains are tine streams for trout and ranges for deer.
Not being in the National park, hunting is a luxury in which one may
here indulge.
TERRA BELLA
Years ago, before the establishment of warehouses in various
towns on the east side of Tulare county, Terra Bella was the largest
wheat shipping point in the state of California. The country was
farmed in immense tracts, whole sections being included in a single
piece of grain. The homesteaders had found this virgin stretch of
country, but, later, many had deserted it, having experienced a suc-
cession of "dry" years, several in number, much to their disappoint-
ment. Wheat raising continued profitable in good years, but the
possibilities of the fertile soil, extending for many miles in every
direction from the station at Terra Bella (beautiful earth), appealed
to the keen insight of the promoter, who, fortified with results ob-
tained in a small way by citrus ]ilanters, appreciated the fact that
with the development of water at reasonable cost, the entire area
could be transformed into profitable orange and lemon orchards.
Accordingly, the subdivision of several sections of land in and
about Terra Bella was taken up three years ago by the Terra Bella
Development Comi>any, which corporation later passed from the
hands of P. J. S. Montgomery and associates to a coterie of wealthy
Los Angeles men, including Marco H. Hellman, G. A. Hart, W. H.
Holliday, F. C. Ensign, W. A. Francis, and others. Since that time
rapid strides have been made, both in the i)lautiug and imj^rovement
of orange groves and in the building of a town, modern in every
respect, — the pride of its builders and the envy of many ambitious
contemporaries.
Several thousand acics of oranges have been planted in the
Terra Bella district with very good results, and the planting is
being continued every year, with many iu>w residents coming in.
TULAEP] AND KINGS COUNTIES 71
Teri-a Bella as a town is, for its age, in a class by itself, having
graded and oiled streets, cement walks and cnrLing, circulating water
system, septic sewerage system, electric power and lights, teleplione,
a fine new $15,000 grammar school building, a $30,000 two-story brick
hotel, a two-story brick business block erected at a cost of $45,000,
a two-story brick structure housing the First National Bank of Terra
Bella, a growing financial institution managed by T. M. Gronen,
cashier; a mission style passenger station on the Southern Pacific,
perhaps the handsomest station on that line in the county; a weekly
newspaper; Wells Fargo express, etc. The population is growing,
and indications are favorable for a splendid town. Terra Bella is
situated about eight miles southwest of Porterville and five miles
nortli of Ducor, another growing town in the new citrus belt which
is also being transformed from wheat fields to a |)rospei-(ius little
city.
DUCOK AND RTCIIGROVE
The town of Ducor is on the line of the Southern Pacific, south
from Terra Bella about four miles. It is the point of departure
for stages to the California Hot Sjiriugs. The princii)al improve-
ment at Ducor at this time is the construction of a large two-story
brick building, in which will be housed the First National Bank of
Ducor, financed by leading citizens of that community. A fine two-
story hotel and a two-story school house have been built, street
improvements made, two churches erected, a fine park laid out and
planted in trees and shrubbery. Numerous fine orange groves have
been set out in the vicinity of Ducor, with more planting this year,
while several large tracts are now being sul)divided for sale to citrus
planters.
Both Terra Bella and Ducor are wideawake towns, with com-
mei'cial organizations, and the planted area will demand shortly
the construction of citrus packing houses in both places.
South of Ducor, in Tulare county, is another rich citrus section,
Richgrove, where extensive improvements are being nuide by the
same people who are promoting Terra Bella. Numerous tracts are
being set in orange groves this spring.
All of this territory has the benefit of reasonable water conditions
for irrigation, thermal climate for the growing of citrus fruits, and
olives, good transportation and ]3ower facilities.
There is every reason to believe that the country from Terra
Bella south to Richgrove will be one of the most productive and
most prosperous sections in the early orange belt of Tulare count}'.
FAKMERSVILI.K
Farmersville, sc\eii miles easterly from \'isalia, is next to
Visalia the oldest settlement in the countv.
72 TULARE AXD KINGS COUNTIES
Tlie eavly settlers naturally made their homes in clearings
along the ei-eek bottoms, and near Outside creek and Deep creek
farming operations commenced in the early '50s, and a larger
number of farmers settled in this vicinity than in any other.
The townsite was located in 1860 by John W. Crowley, and a
relative named Jasper established a general merchandise store. The
overland stage passed through the burg and a postoffice was located
in the store. T. J. Brundage succeeded as manager of the store and
as postmaster and has made this his home ever since, aiding by
every means in his power all enterprises tending to increase the
welfare of the community. One of his sons still conducts the store
and is heavily interested in farm lands and active in the develop-
ment of the surrounding territory.
The first great factor in Farmersville's prosperity was the
construction of the People's ditch. The Consolidated People's Ditch
Company had obtained water rights dating from the '60s, and early
in the '70s their canal throiagh this section was completed. At the
time the town was established, thousands of acres of land were under
irrigation, and the vicinity soon became known as one of the choicest
garden sjDots of the county.
The name Farniersville somehow fits the jilace, not that here
are more farmers than elsewhere, but that the typical old-time prod-
ucts of the farm, siich as corn and pumpkins and potatoes grow to a
degree of size and perfection seldom obtained. Chinese gardeners
quickly selected the locality as best adapted to their purpose and as
.soon as the growth of the other communities warranted, established
fine vegetable gardens here, distril»uting the jtroduct over a wide
territory.
The Briggs orchard, some tlu'ee miles west of Farmersville,
was the first extensive one in the county to come into bearing, and
its first crops of 1888 and 1889 brought such a phenomenal return
that a veritable boom in deciduous tree planting resulted.
Pinkham & McKevitt, large fnait packers of Vacaville, with
some associates, bought and set out the Giant Oak and California
Prune Company orchards of several hundred acres each; scores of
individuals planted smaller tracts and in '91 A. C. Kuhn, a San Jose
dried fruit jiacker, purchased the Arcadia Eanch of ahout one
thousand acres and set the same to fruit. This orchard has since
l)assed into the hands of the California Fruit Canners Association,
and has become one of the largest, l>est and most jirofitalile in the
state.
Farniei-sviile has become a fruit center of no mean iirojjortiou,
hundreds of carloads of fruit going forward auunally as the product
of its groves. The Farmersville prunes have coinc to be recognized
TULAEE AND KIXCS ("OUXTIES 7:!
by dealers as of superior grade, second in size and (juality to none
produced in the San Joaquin valley.
The Visalia electric road, which passes througii this section
and makes stops at nearly every cross roads, as well as at Farniers-
ville i)roper, is a great convenience to the residents. One section of
the town clusters at the old site on the county road, where are the
stores and schoolhouse, but near the railroad station, about a mile
north, another village nucleus is forming which soon, no doubt,
will require trading facilities of its own.
CAMP NELSON
Above Si»riugville about seventeen miles, between the south
and middle forks of the Tule river, at an elevation of about 4500
feet is the delightful summer resort known as Nelsons. At present
the place is reached by a trail about eight miles in length connect-
ing with tlie wagon road at the forks of the river.
While the retreat is surrounded by pines, there is much tilhible
hind and berries, vegetables and fruits are raised to perfection. The
meaddw land grows timothy hay and there is quite a large a[)p]e
orchard. At this elevation the summer climate is cool and pleasant.
Not alone for the outing pleasures in the immediate vicinity,
however, has Nelsons become noteworthy. By reason of its location
on the route to the Little Kern, Big Kern, Kern Lakes, Mt. Whitney
and other points of interest in the higher Sierras it has grown to
be an equipping station for tourists. A hundred pack and saddle
animals are maintained foi' tiiis sei'vice.
CAMP BADGER
Away up in tlie Sierras, east of the Dinuba country and near
the Fresno county line, is Camp Badger. This is a stage station
and a small village surrounded by a fine grazing country. It is on
the road into the high Sierras and to some of the big hnnlier camps.
It is an im))ortant place for summer campers to spend a time in tlie
cool mountain air away from the heat of the valley. Some of the
wildest and grandest scenery in the world lies in the Iiigh Sierras
beyond, points which are readily accessible from ("amj) Badger.
It lies in the edge of the pine belt and in the early days was a
very important camp for teamsters and lumbermen. The first saw-
mills in the county were set up in tlie pineries near Badger. At
one time there were as many as two Inindred and fifty teams hauling
hmiber from the mills through Camp liadger and down the Cotton-
wood creek to Visalia.
There is little of the farmer gloi-y left to Uadgcr. a store, post-
office and scliool being the only industries of today. The surnmnd-
ing country is lai-gely devoted to stockraising.
74 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
AUCKLAND
On the old Millwood road, going- up Cottonwood creek, the first
station was Auckland. As early as 1866 Mr. Harmon preempted
the lands where the postoffice and store are. Soon afterward James
Barton preempted the adjoining place. Stockraising was the princi-
pal business of the early settlers and is likewise that of most of the
present settlers. General farming is carried on to a limited extent. A
postoffice, general store and school make up the town.
Several thrifty apple orchards producing fruit of an excellent
(|uality are in the vicinity and this culture is engaging the attention
of a number of new settlers.
KAWEAH STATION
Kaweah is not yet a town, merely a railroad station without an
agent, but so rapidly is a thickly settled community clustering to
the north of this station that a store has already been established
and a little town will probably result. If so, it will be very close —
within a stone's throw almost — of the site of Woodville, the historic
village first founded in the county.
The school and voting precinct are called 'H'eniee and the district
is well adapted to general farming, fruit and dairying. The reten-
tion of several large tracts by wealthy non-resident owners' has here-
tofore retarded development somewhat.
The Jacob Bros, farm, orchard and nursery is located about a
half-mile east of the station. This farm, comprising several hundred
acres, has such a diverse number of products that a constant income
throughout the A-ear is secured.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER VIII
PORTERVILLE AND OTHER TOWNS
In the southeastern part of Tulare county, situated on a branch
of the Tule river and connected with the cities of Los Angeles and
San Francisco by a branch line, which joins the main Southern Pa-
cific at Fresno and Famosa, lies the city of Porterville; conceded by
those who have visited it to be one of the most progressive towns
of its population in the state. While Porterville is in close proximity
to the mountains, the foothills do not tend to retard development,
but add to the picturesqueness and prosperity of this thriving com-
munity of thirty-two hundred people.
Porterville was, of necessity, on the olden immigrant road, and
on tlie overland stage line, by reason of the fact that in those days
it was necessary to keep to the higii ground to avoid the marshes of
the lowland. Along the base of the spur of hills which here projects
into the valley lay the only natural route. Then, as now, i)assersby
found th.e place attractive and many immigrant trains found along the
banks of the Tule river i)leasant camping and resting places, the first
encountered for days.
J. B. Hockett and party camped here in 1849. Mr. Cla])p settled
here in 1856 or '57. In the late '50s a number of settlers had made
locations and when the Overland Mail from San Francisco to St.
Louis was established, in 1859, a stage station was located here. Royal
Porter Putnam was placed in charge of this station at the i)rincely
salary of .$30 per month and board. Mr. Putnam easily took a \n-om-
inent i)lace, became familiarly known by his middle name and the
stopping place was soon called Porter's station. When the stage
rovate was abandoned, in 1861, Mr. Putnam established a hotel and
store and then, as befitting the newly-acquired dignity of the place, it
came to be entitled Porterville.
Cattle raising constituted the chief occuiiatiou of the peoi)le in
this district, in the days before the Civil war. The era of the cereal
commenced in 187-4, but floods, followed by drought, disheartened
some of the settlers. Not until th.e coming of the railroad in 1888
did Porterville lift her head and allow iirosi)erity to enter, the latter
then coming to remain for all time. The orange now began to i)er-
form a very imi)ortant function. The first grove, of sixty trees, was
planted in 1870 by Deming Gibbons on his i)roperty, where now stands
Piano. These trees were seedlings and for twelve years oranges of
(luality or quantity failed to mature. Added impetus, however, was
given citrus culture by A. R. Henry of Pasadena, who has long since
l)assed to his reward, and in the year 1892 three hundred scattering
acres had been bnmglit undei' the reign of the citrns Tniit. During
76 TULARE AND KIXGS COUNTIES
'this year a bill proposing the segregation of the Porterville district
from the rest of Tulare county was introduced in the state legislature,
but was defeated in 1893. To demonstrate the possibilities of Porter-
ville, orchardists installed an exhibit of citrus fruit and apples at
Sacramento. Orange experts and many men prominent in the fruit
world lu'onounced the fruit equal to any grown south of the Tehach-
api, and Porterville retains this distinction to this day.
Porterville became a town of the sixth class in 1902, when a
number of enterprising citizens appeared before the solons at Sacra-
mento. After due legal red tape the charter was granted and Porter-
\-ille entered upon a period of united development. Porterville now
marched rapidly forward until 1908, when by a heavy majority, Por-
terville citizens voted for the abolition of saloons within the incor-
|)orated city of Porterville. Two years later voters again declared
the saloon an outlaw. On April 15, 1912, a drastic ordinance against
the selling of intoxicants received the unanimous sanction of the city
council.
Porterville ranks second to none of Tulare county cities in fine
business blocks and residences. Itemized building figures would be
useless, for in Porterville the progress of today is history tomorrow.
Within the past four years two three-story blocks, several two-story
and numerous single business blocks have been constructed, all of
fire-proof material and representing a total valuation of $1,750,000.
The business district covers an area of six blocks, the business
hoiTses being of brick and reinforced concrete. More beautiful and
substantial residences are seldom seen, $500,000 being represented in
residences erected within the i)ast three years.
Few, if any, towns of the county can present a more imposing
and practical school structure than has just been completed at a cost
of .$-i-5,000, situated at the west end of Olive street, in the center of
a district destined to become the residential section of Porterville.
It is an eight-room school building of mission design, with the latest
and most approved methods of heating, ventilating and fire-escapes.
The structure is the most modern of four grammar school buildings,
in which more than six hundred children receive instruction. Aside
from adequate primary and elementary departments, Porterville is
provided with a massive high school building of granite, with a total
enrollment of over two hundred students and every probability of
twice that num1)er within the next two years. Practical courses are
the specialties of instruction. The cost of Porterville 's schools aggre-
gate a total of $120,000.
Porterville 's municipal water system is one of the best, $90,000
having been expended in obtaining the most improved service. In
1908, the plant was purchased from the Pioneer Water Company for
$50,000, incidentally reducing the water rate twenty-five pev cent.
Since the purchase of the system, $45,000 worth of ini])rovements have
TULARE Ax\l) KINGS COUNTIES 77
been added. Located upon Scenic Heights, one hundred sixty-three
feet above Main street, is a 300,000 gaHon water tower, into whicli
is pumped pure water from two modern plants, the maximum capa-
city of the plants being 1,250,000 gallons every twenty-four hours.
Two auxilary tanks, one containing 75,000 gallons and a 100,000-
gallon reservoir, add ample pressure for fire protection. The domes-
tic supply is furnished by four, six aud eight-inch laterals, fed from
a ten-inch main, the total length of which is eighteen miles. The foot-
hill lands near Porterville are abundantly supplied by the Pioneer
Water Company, whose system is capable of irrigating seven thou-
sand acres, the main canal being sixteen miles in length. De^p well
pumps are fast displacing the old irrigation methods, the past year
witnessing the installation of one hundred and fifty plants.
Within the 'past year a $75,000 sewer system has been com-
])leted. Nineteen miles of sewer pipe, together with a thirty-acre
sewer farm, are adequate accessories for years to come.
Facts and figures show two miles of asphalt streets and ten miles
of sidewalks, the former having been constructed during the past
year at a cost of $90,000. Five of the principal thoroughfares. Main,
Olive, Mill, Putnam and Roche, are the paved streets.
With the completion of street paving, the necessity for efficient
fire apparatus was pre-eminent. A chemical engine and a hose cart,
propelled by gasoline, were purchased for $10,000. Porterville was
the first city in Tulare county to ado])t the modern fire-fighting
device and therefore has a minimum insurance rate.
In resi)onse to the demand for adequate shipping and packing
facilities for the citrus industry, eight packing-houses in and near
Porterville have lieen established. These employ a small army of
]3eople during the fruit season. Aside from one thousand cars of
oranges shipi)ed annually, Porterville ships many peaches and prunes.
Apples rivaling those of the eastei-n states are grown in tlie moun-
tain districts.
The thriving condition of two creameries, one in Porterville and
the other nearby, attests the statement that the dairy industry has
))ossil)ilities as great as those of the orange.
A Carnegie library, valued at $10,000, is another of Porterville 's
a((|uisitions. The building is filled with the latest productions in
science, art, general information and fiction.
Eight religious denominations. Congregational, Methodist, Chris-
tian, Baptist, Christian Science, Catholic, P]pi.scoi)al and German, are
represented in Porterville, all these institutions being in a flourishing
condition. Seven of the denominations possess buildings of more than
l)assing attention. The Congregational church, erected at a i-ost
of $25,000, is one of the most beautiful edifices of its kind in tlie
valley. A total of $()0,000 is represented in these sanctuaries.
The First National Uank of Porterville, one of the strongest bank-
78 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
ing institutions in Tulare county, was organized June 9, 1903, with a
subscribed capital of $25,000. At present the capitalization is $100,000,
and it has the largest deposit of any bank in the county. The older
institution, the Pioneer Bank, was organized April 19, 1889, with a
subscribed capital of $70,000. At the present time this bank is cap-
italized for $105,000.
Among the factors which tend to advance Porterville. of most
importance is the Chamber of Commerce. This is the largest organ-
ization of its kind in the San Joaquin valley, its membership totaling
two hundred and fifty. Aside from a continuous and ])rogressive
advertising campaign, a club room for the members is maintained,
and also a large reading room, banquet hall and billiard parlors. In
co-operation with the Chamber of Commerce is the Ladies Improve-
ment Club, a by no means small factor in the development, improve-
ment and maintenance of a clean city.
A public park of thirty acres is situated at the eastern limits
of the city. The land for this park was donated l)y pultlic-spirited
citizens and $10,000 has lieen expended in its maintenance and
improvement. A pul)lic luncli pavilion, i)ulilic play grounds for chil-
dren and other attractive features have lieen installed.
An important factor in Porterville's advancement is the char-
acter of its newspapers. Two of the most consistent boosting journals
in the county are represented in the Porterville Daily Recorder and
the Porterville Daily Messenger. Both have weekly editions as sup-
23lementary publications and their tinancial future is assured.
Lodges of Porterville include all the leading orders, both l)ene-
ficiary and insurance. Ancient Order United Workmen, Porterville
Lodge No. 1999; Foresters of America, Court Porterville No. 181;
Fraternal Order of Eagles, Porterville Aerie No. 1351; Independent
Order of Odd Fellows, Porterville Encampment No. 89, Porterville
Lodge No. 359, Canton Porterville No. 6, Golden Rod Rebekah Lodge
No. 200; Knights and Ladies of Security, Porterville Council No.
1917; Knights of Pythias, Porterville Lodge No. 93; Pythian Sisters.
Callamura Temple No. 66 ; Ladies of Maccabees ; Masonic, F. & A. M.,
Porterville Lodge No. 303; Royal Arch Masons, Porterville Chapter
No. 85; Order of Eastern Star, Palm Leaf Chapter No. 11-1; Modern
Woodmen of America, Porterville Camp No. 9064; Royal Neighl)ors.
AVhite Rose Camp No. 5333; Woodmen of the World, Orange Cani]t
No. 333; Women of Woodcraft, Pomelo Circle No. 292.
Porterville never has been or never will be a boom town. It has
grown consistently, and it will continue its advancement, as the neces-
sary resources, now in their infancy, will always be behind it. To
the east lie many hundred acres of foothill land yet to feel the orch-
ardist's hand. Farther east and up into the mountains are the famous
redwood foi-ests, unhindered by nu)noi)olists. These forests, together
with th>' I'icli iniiieral resources yet to be developed, form a held of
TULARE AND KIXGvS COUNTIES 79
inestimable wealth. Excellent mountain resorts, such as the Califor-
nia Hot Springs, whose mineral waters equal those of the famous
Arkansas Hot Springs, lieckon tlie tourists from the hot sunnners
of the valley. The feeding and fattening of beef cattle also forms
an important occupation of the hill districts. To the south are thou-
sands of bare acres unequaled in orange culture. Agricultural and
dairy industries are assured in the broad i)lains to the west and to
the north are i)roduced tlie finest of navel oranges. — CUnuJc M.
ChapUii.
DINUBA
Dinnba is the largest city in northern Tulare county, situated
along the foothills on the eastern side of the great San Joaquin val-
ley. It was nearly thirty years ago that the first settlers made their
home here, at a time when Traver was a flourishing community and
Dinnba was but a cross-roads corner. The country was one vast
wheat field, and it was not thought then that in a generation the entire
district would be revolutionized and made to bud and lilossom with
fruit and flower as it does today.
The site where Dinuba now stands was originally owned b\-
James Sibley and E. E. Giddings, and at the time the surveyors
of the Pacific Improvement Company laid off the towusite was but
a vast stubblefield. Later W. D. Tuxbury bought out Mr. Sibley's
interest and Mr. Giddings also sold his interests to Mr. Sibley. The
first lot in the new town was sold by the Improvement Company to
Dr. Gebhardt, and this was later occupied by the doctor's office,
opposite the depot and at the rear of what is now the Alta Garage.
Homer Hall and H. C. Austin bought four lots on the corner where
the Central Block is now located and on the corner where McCrack-
en's drug store is situated, Mr. Hall built a $1500 frame building —
the finest in the district at that time. The lots cost him $250 each
and cannot be bought today for much more than that amount per
front foot. Here Mr. Hall engaged in the real estate business in
the fall of 1888. The building was so arranged that there was a
room adjoining the realty office and this was occupied by Dave and
Charles Cohn with their general merchandise store. Later the Cohn
Brothers bought the corner where the United States National Bank
now stands, and a year later the old "adobe" on the corner where
the First National bank is now housed in its splendid $20,000 home.
This adobe M'as a land mark in the comnmnity for years, and was
occupied with general stores, saloons and other lines, until a little
over a year ago, when it was taken down for tlie modern structure
wliicli has replaced it.
As stated, the next luiildiug to lu> erected after tlie Hall Imild-
ing was the office of Dr. Gebiiai'tlt. Then Frank Klaiti Imilt a black-
smith shoip on the corner where the Akei's shop and inacliine works
80 TULARE AXD KINGS COUNTIES
are now, Init this later . burned down. As was nsual with a pioneer
town, the saloon found a place in the growth of the community, and
remained here until five years ago.
A building was moved from south of town liy Mrs. Smith, who
later became Mrs. Toler, and was located on the rear of the Hall
and Austin lots, and this became the postoffice. Homer Hall was
the postmaster, and Mrs. Toler was his deputy, later succeeding to
the office of the growing little town.
About this time the Dinuba Hotel was erected by Sibley and
Tuxbury and Mr. and Mrs. Henry Kirkpatrick were the first lessees.
They are still living south of town. Mine Host Kirkpatrick was
succeeded by Matthews and Wheeler as landlords. This same year
the Southern Pacific depot was built and the public auction of town
lots by the railroad took place in the latter part of January, 1889,
the auction being "cried" by Mr. Shannon, the railroad auctioneer
from Fresno. The railroad i)eople gave the peo]jle gathered a big
dinner that day, and the new town of Dinuba was given its start.
The "Seventy-Six" Land Company had already commenced the
development of water for irrigation here, and later the Alta Irriga-
tion District was formed, with 130,000 acres and absorbing the "76"
system. From that time the district began to develop, until five
years ago the city was incorporated and has grown until today
there are 1800 people here and Dinuba is the largest city between
Visalia and Fresno along the foothills. The city has fine schools,
both grammar and high, , and seven churches: Baptist, Methodist
Episcopal, Christian, Methodist Episcopal South, Presbyterian, Ad-
ventist and Church of Christ, Scientist. There are eighteen teachers
in the public schools and nearly six hundred pupils. The city has
miles of cement sidewalks and paved streets and is reputed as one
of the cleanest and most attractive cities in the entire west.
TULARE
Tulare, the second eit?^ in size in the county, is situated on the
main lines of both the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe, at their inter-
section, some ten miles south from Yisalia. AVith a population of
about 4000, rapidly growing; with the modern facilities and conven-
iences common to up-to-date cities of its size ; surrounded by a thickly-
settled, fertile, well-watered and productive farming section. Tulare
does not present in aspect striking peculiarities.
Historically, however, Tulare possesses distinctive prominence.
A checkered career, marked by a series of staggering misfortunes,
has been her lot. The adage, "It never rains but it pours," seemed
peculiarly apiilicable at one time. That " 'Tis always darkest just
l)efore dawn" proved true at last. The record of these events reads
more like a story tlian the sobei- chroni('h> of liistory.
The earliest settlers of the countv ])asscd by tlio section in tlie
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 81
vicinity of Tulare, because it did not lie in the path of water-courses.
A few real pioneers there were, notably W. F. Cartinili, .1. A. More-
head, J. W. Hooper, 1. N. Wright, the Powell, McCoy, Hough and
Wallace families, whose homesteads were tributary to what is now
Tulare, but no settlement existed in this neighborhood i)rior to the
coming, in 1872, of the Southern Pacific Railroad.
Unlike the other railroad towns of the county, however, an im-
mediate growth followed the sale of lots. In fact, Tulare commenced
with a boom. There was occasion for this, because, according to
the railroad's plans, which were duly heralded, it was to be the end
of a division, the site of great railway repair shops, and not least,
the county seat of Tulare county. In the plats submitted to pros-
pective investors, the many projected enterprises, as factories, rail-
road yards, and shops and the courthouse, were outlined. And there
were many purchasers anxious to get in on the ground floor; the
town started amidst a general whoop and hurrah. It came to pass
that the railroad shops were erected, perhaps not on (]uite as exten-
sive a scale as anticipated, but still there they were, and so, too, were
several hundred employees, all of whom had to be housed and clothed
and fed. Consequently there was need for merchants of all kinds,
and these came. To be sure, the courthouse did not materialize.
This for the reason that Yisalia influence secured the passage by the
legislature of a bill permitting Tulare county to issue bonds for the
l>ur])ose of erecting a new courthouse at Yisalia. Flourishing enoiigh,
liowe\er, were conditions to cause the town to grow apace. Among
the pioneers of industry at this time may be mentioned J. O. Lovejoy.
who built the first residence in the town, also a mill and a hotel, and
I. H. Ham, who erected blocks of buildings, both in the business
and residence sections.
Many of the railroad employees were men of family and these
in numbers purchased lots and erected dwellings thereon, to l)e paid
for on the installment plan. Now were planted gardens and lawns
and on the sides of many of the princi])al streets shade trees, and
all thrived. An ever-growing beauty and an ever-greater [irosperity
characterized the town. Monthly came the pay car with $:!i),0()() to
$40,000.
In July, 1883, a disastrous fire swept tiie business section, enlail-
ing a loss of about $150,000 and destroying about twenty-five places
of business. From the effects of this fire Tulare rajndly recovered.
Better buildings almost immediately took the place of those burned,
and bustling progress was promptly resumed.
Prosperity was uninterrupted for three years only. In 188(5, on
the night of August Ifith, the business i)ortion of the city was entirely
destroyed by fire. The magnitude of this second disaster can scarcely
now be realized. Notliing was left except, to (piote from the Tulare
Register of the time, "a fiiuge of residences around a fire-swept
82 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
gap." In the published list of the business liouses destroyed are
enumerated seventy-seven — practically all.
The loss occasioned by this fire was so great, so nearly did it
take the accumulated savings of all the business men, and so closely
did it follow the former conflagration, that it might seem that
endeavor would be paralyzed.
Knowledge of the town's resources, supposed to be permanent,
inspired hope and courage, howev^-r, and the town was relmilt in
lietter and more substantial form than before.
xVud now, indeed, in the latter part of the '80s, secure once more,
enjoying renewed prosperity, the inhabitants may be pardoned for
believing that their troubles were over ; that, having weathered safely
the storms, they were to have for the remainder of the voyage fair
weather and fine sailing.
However, the Fates held the most crushing bolt yet in their hands.
In 1891 it fell. In that year the railroad company removed its shops
to Bakersfield, taking tenants and trade. Most dismal and discourag-
ing was the situation for the villagers who remained. A score of
merchants found their patronage insufficient to make them a living.
Ai-tisans and other craftsmen were without employment. Rents
dropped to almost nothing; business houses suspended and closed;
gardens were neglected and rioted in weeds; dwelling houses dis-
played first the sign "For Rent," then "For Sale."
A dreary stagnation ensued for several years, a retreat, as it
were, before the overwhelming forces of adversity. Houses by the
score were sold very cheaply and moved to different portions of the
county. Tulare was looked upon as dead beyond hope of recovering.
And yet to the sturdy resident who refused to be a quitter came
the insistent query. Why! He looked around at the vast expanse of
fertile land surrounding the town and again asked, Why?. The
answer that farming tried on a big scale, wheat farming, had failed,
because of insufficient rainfall or insufficient sub-irrigation did not
satisfy him. He said "If it is water that is lacking, why, we will
get water. We will make this land produce the abundant crops
Nature intended and we shall become a rich and prosperous com-
munity, self-supporting, independent of railroad patronage."
And from this resolve a great irrigation system was planned
with wide canals and far-reaching laterals. To carry out this project
the people in the territory to be embraced formed the Tulare Irriga-
tion District and voted bonds in the sum of $500,000.
AVith the bonds selling readily, the vast irrigation enterprise
giving emploAmient to an army of men well under way, the vast
benefits that would accrue on its completion readily foreseen every-
one again felt encouraged and hopeful. All troultle was now thought
to be over.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 83
As a matter of fact, it had just begim. Litigation over watei-
rights involved the new district from the start. Finally, largely from
this cause the money was all spent and there was no water, or at
least, not sufficient water.
Eemember, all this occurred just as the general hard times and
financial depression of '93 were being most severely felt. The result
was that default was made on the interest on the bonds. Conditions
became almost intolerable. Lack of funds prevented proper ui)keep
of the canals. There was no water to speak of and yet there was
an ever-increasing indebtedness that with the dragging weight of
an incubus prevented any onward progress.
Land depreciated in value until it practically became unsalable.
Discouragement gave place to despondency and despair.
Joe Goldman and other progressive citizens of Tulare finally
evolved a plan to try to compromise with the bondholders. They suc-
ceeded in securing a concession whereby the bonds and accrued inter-
est, aggregating $750,000, could be wiped out for about $273,000.
An assessment was levied in the fall of 1902 upon the real estate
of the bonded district sufficient to cover the amount, the bonds were
placed in escrow and strenuous efforts, ultimately successful, were
made to collect the money.
October 17, 1903, was the day appointed for the exchange. A
monster celebration was held in honor of the event and the cancelled
bonds were burnt in the presence of the assemblage amidst the great-
est rejoicings. That day marked the turning point in Tulare's career.
Progress since has been rapid and increasing. The irrigation system
is now the i^roperty of the district and the only e.xpense for water
is the cost of maintenance. Pumping plants, irrigating lands not
reached by the ditches, have also been installed in great numbers,
bringing into production thousands of additional acres.
Having become the center of the dairy district of the county,
possessing three of the largest creameries, Tulare city now enjoys
a permanently assured large and increasing income. Vineyards, de-
ciduous fruits of all kinds and many other products contribute also,
but the sum received from the sale of cream, now over $100,000 per
month, is of first importance, not only because of the amount, but
because it is paid in cash each month.
Tulare merchants enjoy the benefits of a cash trade and their
customers partake of the benefits by i-eason of lower prevailing pi-ices
than in towns where a credit system is in greater vogue.
The present rajiid growth of Tulare is well indicated by the build-
ing o])eratii)ns, which for the jiast two years have run about $2.")(),000
per year.
Tulare possesses a first-class sewer system, an abundant supi)Iy
of absolutely pure water piped everywhere, electric jiowcr and lights.
84 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
gas for fuel and lighting. There is a large cannery, tliree creameries,
a flour mill and a planing mill and furniture factory. A handsome
free library building houses a six thousand volume collection of books.
New school buildings with the best modern equipment and with ex-
tensive surrounding playgrounds and experimental plats are a feature.
There are two banks, two daily newspapers and corresponding
business facilities of all kinds. Ten churches of as many denomina-
tions minister to the religious needs of the people.
Of the early improvements made in the days of the railroad shop
and "before the tire" one only remains, and that is the shade trees
planted along the streets. These, now about thirty years old, have
grown to be of great girth and, wide-spreading, their tops almost
meet above the broad streets.
LEMON COVE
Eighteen miles east of Visalia the foothill slopes to the north
and soutli of the Kaweali river approach at an angle to form a
sheltered vale, which with the village and postoffice there located,
is called Lemon Cove.
Originally the settlement and postoffice went by the name of
Lime Kiln, from the early discovery of lime in the vicinity by Wil-
liam Cozzens.
J. W. C. Pogue, one of the earliest settlers, was the founder of
the town and the father of the great development in citrus culture
that has taken place in recent years. The first orange orchard in
Tulare county was planted by him. The successful growth of these
first few orange and lemon trees and the entire freedom from frost
noted during the years up to their coming into liearing, led him to
l^lant a second orchard and to become a whole-souled, energetic ])ro-
nioter for the section.
In the early '90s a consideralile acreage was planted to citi'us
fruits, mostly lemons. In addition to many small tracts, the large
groves of the Kaweah Lemon Company and the Ohio Lemon Com-
pany were set.
A little story must be told here, for at this time the learned Mc-
Adie, our well-known weather prophet, in company witli a number
of friends, paid a visit to the high Sierras, reached by way of
Lemon Cove. On the return the large plantings of young lemon
groves attracted attention and Mr. McAdie proceeded to comment
thereon in the presence of Mr. Pogue and other residents.
McAdie explained that citrus fruits would not mature in the
localitj'' and that it was a foolish waste of time and money to plant
them. Reasons scientific, technical and meteorological were given
to prove it. Old Jim Pogue, boiling inwardly and scarcely able to
contain himself, finally inteiTupted and said, "Come here a minute;
got something to show you." Taking McAdie by the arm he led him
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 85
to the rear of his residence, where stretched a full-hearing- orange
and lemon grove, the branches loaded with the yellowing fruit and
said, "Tliere, you dad blame fool, there they be."
About a thousand bearing acres now add their testimony to that
of Mr. Pogue. The lemon has a more delicate nature and more sus-
ceptible to frost than the orange. Lemon (\)\e is one of the few
jilaces in the state where sufficient frost ])rotection is obtained.
Lemon Cove is the outer gateway to the Sierras of the Kaweah
watershed and in consequence enjoys a considerable tourist trade.
The town, though small, is thriving and growing. Citrus fruit
packing and shipping causes much activity during the season. Three
packing houses handle the crop, which now amounts to about four
hundred carloads annually.
A two-story hotel, large general store, livery stalile. blacksuiith
shops, bakery and butcher sho]) make up the town.
SULTAN.A.
Sultana, one of the new towns created by the construction of
the Santa Fe Railroad in 1896, lies three miles due east from Diimba
and is just half-way between that city and Orosi.
Sultana, situated as it is in the very midst of a solidly planted
area of orchards and vineyards, has become an important shii))iing
point, both for fresh and dried fruits and raisins and for water-
melons.
Being so near the larger city, which has the advantage of lying
on both lines of railroad, Sultana will jn-obably never grow to l)e a
large city. On the other hand, its existence is amply justified by
the large and rapidly increasing rural poi)ulation surrounding it.
LINDSAY
Lindsay is situated in the very center of the most extensively
developed section of Tulare county's orange belt, lying about twelve
miles north of Porterville and eighteen miles southeast from \'isalia.
on the east side branch of the Southern Paciiic.
Orange groves in solid formation and stretching miles iu all
directions, approach to and extend into the city.
Unlike any of the other towns of the county, diver.sified jiroducts
do not contribute to the enrichment of city and country here. Oranges
exclusively are now grown and this fact, in connection with the
large area of land in the vicinity suited to this culture, has made
Lindsay the greatest orange shijjping point in the county and many
lielieve tliat within a few years it will be the most important in the
state.
Thirteen large packing houses, equipped with the best nuHlern
facilities and machinery, and having a combined capacity of eiglity
carloads ]ier day, are required to handle Ww oulimt. which now
amounts to about two thousand carloails.
86 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIP^S
Business diiriug the harvest season, when the handling of the
immense crop requires the labor of an army of pickers, packers,
box-makers, etc., is, of course, especially brisk.
The city now contains a poi^ulation of about twenty-five hundred
and is growing rapidly. There are two daily newspapers, two banks,
three machine shops, a foundry, a planing mill, two cement works
and a talcum powder mill. Two electric companies give power foi
lighting, heating and pumping. Gas mains will be laid in the near
future.
Lindsay was incorporated as a city of the sixth class February
28, 1910, the corporate limits containing an area of nine hundred
and sixty acres. The government was placed in the hands of a city
council, composed of W. B. Kiggens, president; Allen McGregor. P.
T. Ostrander, Basil Pryor and Charles 0. Cowles, and Marshal
William Gann; city clerk, W. H. Mack; treasurer, G. V. Eeed.
In 1911, bonds in the sum of $130,000 were voted for the pur-
pose of acquiring a municipal water plant and for the construction
of a sewer system.
Fifty-five thousand dollars was devoted to the purchase of the
plant of the Lindsay Water and Gas Company and the better-
ment and enlargement of the system. An additional pumping plant
was installed, mains extended to cover the entire city, and other
improvements effected.
The sewer system, to which $7.3,000 was devoted, is of modern
type and substantial construction, built by Haviland & Tibbetts of
San Francisco. Provision for the disposal of sewage was made
by the purchase by the city of a ninety-acre tract, situated some
two and a half miles from the city. Preparations for farming this
tract directly by the city is now being undertaken.
Lindsay possesses school facilities considered superior to those
of any city of similar size in the state. These consist of three
grammar school and one high school buildings, with extensive
grounds, representing an investment of $70,000.
The appearance of Lindsay is made attractive bj' the nearly
uniform excellence of both business structures and residences. There
are six miles of concrete sidewalks and the streets are generally
well graded, firm and smooth.
The growth of Lindsay, while never of a mushroom character,
has been exceedingly rapid, about fifteen years only having been
required for it to reach its present status as one of the most
important cities of the county.
Nowhere else in the county has a more complete, radical and
rapid transformation in characteristics been effected than in the
section around Lindsay.
When the overland stage line to St. Louis was established in
TULARE AXD KINGS COUNTIES 87
'59, a station called the Eighteeu-Mile House was erected a little
south and west of the present town on the old Porterville road.
Between Outside creek near Farmersville and Porterville this was
the only house, and it remained so for many years. The country
between was a dreary hog-wallow waste considered worthless except
for spring feed.
As stock raising became a more important industry ranches
were located in the foothills where water from springs or creeks
was to be found and in the spring-time the flocks were removed to
the adjoining plains and temporary camps established there.
This constituted all of the development until the early '80s,
when the coming of the railroad through the valley gave an impetus
to wheat growing.
After a few good crops had demonstrated the profits to be made
in this culture some enterprising men of the period jumped in and
proceeded to raise wheat on a large scale.
In the Lindsay district J. J. Cairns, G. S. and W. S. Berry, and
others, as the Keeley's and William Mehrten (known as Dutcli Bill)
farmed practically the entire territory from north of Exeter to
Porterville, including a large area to the west of Lindsay.
J. J. . Cairns alone put in in one year 25,000 acres and was
reimted to have cleared up $50,(K)I) on the crop. The lands upon
which these wheat kings operated were not owned by them, but
were leased, usually upon shares, and lay in separated tracts. Al-
though most of the country thus came under cultivation, no material
progress resulted. Plowing and seeding outlits with temporary
camps moved from place to place during the winter season and
temporary movable quarters also sufficed for the harvest time.
Neither did any permanent profit inure to the few men engaged in
this lordly farming, as seasons of drought wiped out the profits
from years of plenty.
In 1888 the east side branch of the Southern Pacific railroad was
completed and Lindsay was made a station and given a siding.
Capt. A. J. Hutchinson donated fifty-one per cent, of the townsite
for this concession, but this was not considered sufficient inducement
for the erection of a depot and it was not until two years later, when
Mr. Hutchinson donated more land, that one was built.
In 1889, however, the McNear company erected a large grain
warehouse on the track and a few business houses sprang up to
care for the wants of the sparse and largely floating population.
Charles Rankin opened a general store and Ed and George Hauna-
ford started a hotel and a few other shops followed.
The new era began in 1891 when Captain Hutchinson began the
active promotion of the section for orange culture, i)lacing twenty-
five hundred acres of land on the market for this i)urpose.
Previouslv John Tuohv, on his Lewis creek ranch, had iilanted
88 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
a number of orange trees, the growth of which liad shown the
adaptabihty of soil and climate. J. J. Cairns had set out a small
orchard, and Captain Hutchinson himself had the previous year
set out an experimental grove of five acres. Mr. Cairns also had put
down a well, the first in the district for irrigating purposes, and
had ]iroven the existence of a great available water supply.
To Mr. Hutchinson, however, properly belongs the credit for
being the founder of the community, as tln-ough his enterjirise de-
velo])ment on a larger scale was undertaken and the district's merits
exploited in a way to attract attention from many men of prominence
who became identified witli the section's develo]nnent.
Thomas E. Johnson of San Jose and C. J. Carle were among
the first outsiders to whom the locality made a strong appeal and
these, both by their own efforts and through their influence, became
important factors in furthering the growth of the community.
About four hundred acres were set out in 1891, more than
double that in 1892, and considerably more in the years following.
Not until 1896 and 1897, however, when returns came in from the
first orchards planted, did the boom, as it may be called, set in that
has lasted until the present day and gives no signs of abating.
Southern California growers in general had not thought it
possible that oranges could be grown commercially north of Tehachapi.
When the Lindsay groves first began to produce oranges and get
them east in time for the Thanksgiving mai-ket, the fact attracted
wide attention in the south. Many growers visited this section, fore-
saw its possibilities and invested.
Lindsay has proven an exceptionally fine locality for hustlers
of limited means. By reason of the rapid rise in land values and
on account of the prevailing activity in all lines of business due
to tlie rush in leveling, ])lauting and installation of pumping plants
unusual ()])i)ortnnities have offered themselves. Lindsay boasts a
large number of citizens who, entering the field without a dollar,
now measure their wealtli in five figures.
CHAPTER IX.
ANECDOTES
ADVENTURES WITH INDIANS
In the adventures of the earh' settlers with the Indians, there
was frequently an element of humor, sometimes of tragedy. There
are no other instances, however, that quite equal for the mixture of
these two elements the two misadventures that befell Fred or "old
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 89
man" Steinman. In 1854 or '55 Steinman, who lived southwesterly
from Visalia a few miles, went on a hunting trip near wliat is now
Corcoran on the Mahuran slough. He was looking for deer, and
the timbered country near this slougli looking good to him, he tied
his team and proceeded cautiously afoot. He liad not traveled far
when he espied five or six deer, whereupon he dodged into the
slough, and stealthily made his way to a point which he judged to
be directly opposite them. Eaising cautiously up, he discovered one
liig buck witliin range, the rest being some distance beyond. He
fired, and at the crack of his rifle what was his horror and dismay
to hear an Indian scream with agony. It was a dying shriek. The
Indian was himself stalking deer, clothed in deer skin and carrying-
antlers. There was no more hunting for Steinman that trip. Fearful
of revenge, he hurried home and kept exceedingly close for some
time. Either, however, the Indians failed to learu the slayer's
identity or were satisfied that the shooting was inirely accidental,
for no reprisal was ever attempted.
Equally, or rather more, serious and at the same time more
amusing, was his next trouble. Steinman was an old bachelor and
had peculiar habits. His house, which was within half a mile of the
Indian rancheria, was of clapboards split and smoothed. Above his
living-room was a loft reached by a ladder. It was Steinman 's
custom on warm afternoons to re])air to tliis loft, divest himself
of all clothing, and spend a few trancpiil liours in smoking, meditation
or repose.
For some time he iiad lieen missing articles fi'om his cabin with-
out a clew to the pilferer or his method. On one afternoon, however,
while taking his ease in the loft in a state of nature he heard noises,
and looking down through tlie hole in the floor saw two Indians
enter. They had discovered some loose weather l)oards, ;uid by
removing the nails had made an ojjening wliich later could l)e
closed and leave no sign.
The table, on which was a variety of eatables, was dii-cctly below
tiie hole in the ceiling, and Steinman 's anger rose as ho watched
the Indians make free with his grub and then examine the caliin for
things of use. He determined to scare them into fits, and .jumi)ed
to tlie table, giving as he did so a wild yell. Instead of fleeing in
consternation at this frightful ai)parition, as he had anticipated, tlie
Indians grabbed knives from the table and attacked liim fiercely.
Steinman, though severely wounded, managed to reach the lirei:)lace,
where he got hold of a long-handled shovel, with which he killed one
of his antagonists and drove off the other.
This time Steinman knew that only by iinincdiatc flight could
he secure his safety. To his neighbor Willis he thcret'ore went. A
numl)er of men were here eiiiployeil mnkiug rails and these i»i-ouiised
90 TULARE AND KIXG8 COUXTIES
him protection. After consultation it was decided that the best
method to pursue would be to endeavor to square the matter with
the chief.
All came to town and secured the siO"d offices of Horace Thomas,
"Uncle Dan," to act as mediator. The result of the powwow was
that in consideration of a beef, a horse and a number of trinkets
it was agreed that there should be no harassment of Steinman.
THE POINDEXTER NUPTIALS
John Barker tells this story of W. L. Poindexter, sheriff of Tulare
county in the late '50s.
Poindexter was a big, jolly, good-natured fellow, exceedingly
popular, having hosts of friends not only in the county, but throughout
the valley from Stockton to Bakersfield. A decided weakness for the
fair sex was one of his characteristics and when a young lady school-
teacher from San Jose, Miss Helen S , who was a most
bewitching blonde, made her ap]iearance in Visalia, Poindexter liecame
deeply enamoured. Upon her he lavished alnindant affection and pres-
ents of a substantial nature.
When after a long but ardent courtship he finally secured her con-
sent and the day for the wedding was set, preparations on a grand scale
went forward and from Stockton to Bakersfield friends were invited to
attend. Barker says :
"There was a jolly crowd and one of which any man might feel
justly proud to number as his friends on that occasion. The wedding-
was to take place Saturday and the bride and groom were to take
passage for San Jose on the overland stage immediately thereafter.
In the meantime, Poindexter had to make a trip to the Kern river
mines. ' '
On his return Friday Barker brought his mail to hiiii at his
room. Of this he says: "I noticed a letter in a feminine liand that
had been mailed him at Visalia. When I handed him his mail I felt
a sort of premonition that all was not light. As lie read the letter
I saw a change come over his features ; he turned pale as death.
I saw his hand quiver and thought lie would faint. In a few
moments, by a great effort, he called me and said, 'Jack, read this,
but never on your life lireathe a word of it to anyone else.' He
added, 'That is from a woman that has ruined me financially and
now she has completed the job.' "
The letter was couched in cold blooded, delilierate language.
It stated that she had made up her mind not to marry him, did not
love him, never had and never could, advised him to get some one
nearer his own age, etc., and suggested that he make no attempt to
see her.
"Poindexter told me that he had squandered $8,000 on her.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 91
We tried to keep things secret that nig-ht, but by the next morning
everyone in town knew it. Of course, there was a general feeling of
indignation among Poindexter's friends, and by noon a Saturnalia
had commenced. Nearly all of the guests liad bought new suits of
clothes, good ones, to honor the occasion, and they organized what
they called a 'Lodge of Sorrow.' After installing officers, com-
mittees went around among the guests and invited them to meet at
the lodge. As fast as they arrived they were put into an ante-room
and as their names were called, they were blindfolded and led by
the arm by a man on each side. The A'ictim was marched around the
room and then led to the center facing the presiding officer. His
attention was directed to the awful example of our friend Poindexter,
and he was then cautioned never to allow himself to succumb to the
wiles of a siren. He was then requested to repeat after one of liis
guides the following formula :
" 'Then shall we stand such treatment? No! As soon seek roses in
December, ice in June, seek constancy in wind, or corn in chatf.
" 'Believe a liar or an epitaph or any other thing tliat's false
before
" 'We let a woman play us such a score.'
"At the command 'Restore him to the light' the bandage was
removed from his eyes, the skirts of his Prince Albert coat were
seized on each side by his guides and the coat split up the back to
the collar and the victim turned loose. Of course, his first impres-
sion was that he wanted to punch the heads of the fellows who tore
his coat, but when he saw that everyone else in the room had been
served the same way, his only alternative was to laugh with tliem
and wait for the next victim. This Saturnalia was kept n\> until
Sunday morning, when they all struck out for their homes."
FIDDLING FROM DOKKEy's B.\CK.
Many tales are told of tlie "devil may care" s])irit tliat animated
Visalia during the mining boom days. Gambling, boozing, fighting
and frolicking were the occupations of the miners, especially, as liap-
pened in the fall of '56 and '57, when their pockets were full of dust
and they were otf on their way to San Francisco to spend the winter.
Visalia offered such attractions that they got no further. At
one lime about twenty-five of these took practical jiossession of the
town. Wide open and in full blast the attractions were kejit going,
night and day. Tliis crowd had among them a tall and lanky
Missourian named Ben Biggs, who could ]3lay tlie fiddle, and that liis
talents might be exercised in a manner calculated to attract the most
attention they purchased a jackass for him to ride and were accus-
tomed to march around the town, lialting in front of tlie different
saloons, treating all bystanders while the fiddhn' ]ilaypd lustily. The
sum of $60 per month was paid the musician l>y tlic jiarty.
92 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
Needless to say, due eelat was secured. Judge Sayles, later of
Fvesuo, who was the leader of this crowd, concluded that this sport
had become somewhat stale and arranged for a glorious finale.
At the crossing at Mill creek at Garden street was a ford, below
which was a ^■ery deep pool. A halt was called here one day and
Biggs, at the request of the audience, was sawing out a selection
when a [ireconcerted rush of the spectators dumped both him and his
steed into the water.
THE M-'CEORY EPISODE
"^'isalia in tlic '70s numbered among its inhabitants a genuine
"bad man." This was one James McCrory, who at the time of his
death had tlie reputation of having killed or wounded thirteen men.
McCrory, when sober, was ])leasant and companionable and
gained many friends. When drunk, he was cross-grained and surh-
and inclined to shoot on little or no provocation. His first serious trou-
ble occurred here in October, 1870, when without apparent cause he shot
and killed Manuel Barcla, a Mexican barkeeper in the Fasliinn
saloon. For this murder he was at his first trial, sentenced to fifteen
years imprisonment. On the second trial he was acquitted on
technicalities. As the nmi-der was peculiarly cold-blooded and brutal
this caused much unfavorable comment.
The culminating incident of his career, however, and the means
by which he gained a large amount of such fame as lay within his
reach, occurred on the night of December 24, 1872. McCrory had
just returned from a prospecting trip to Arizona. He had met with
no success and arrived broke, actually in rags, in fact. Charles
Allen, a barkeeper in the Eldorado saloon, had been his good friend
for years and to him McCrory appealed for assistance. Allen re-
plenished his wardrobe, purchasing at Sweet's store a $10 i)air of
trousers and other articles of good quality. After making the neces-
sary purchases, the two chums proceeded to carouse around together
all day. Allen went to bed in the saloon, but McCrory continued to
celebrate. He became so boisterous that the Mexican barkeeper
became frightened and woke Allen. When Allen suggested that he
make less noise, McCrory pulled his pistol and, without a word, shot
Allen .iust below the eye. There were numerous witnesses to the
dastardly act and feeling against McCrory was intense. Allen died
in about an hour.
McCrory made his escape through the rear of the saloon and
Jiad hid himself in an outhouse, whence he was coaxed to come out
by "Picayune" Johnson, a citizen, who placed him under arrest.
When being taken to the jail by de])uty sheriff Jesse Reynolds, there
wei-e h)U(l and t're(iueiit cries from tiie crowd of "hang him! hang
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 93
hini!" MeC'rory yelled back, "Yes, you , vou dasseut
liaiig me."
It was Christmas eve. The cliurch bells were riugiug tlieir call
to attend the Christmas trees festivities at the Methodist cliiircli on
Court street, but there were few men who answered this summons.
They attended a graver and sterner meeting on Main street at !) ]>.
m., and as a result marched en masse to the jail where sheriff A. II.
Glasscock with armed deputies were found guarding the prisoner.
The sheriff asked the crowd not to act hastily and do things of which
later they would be ashamed, and requested them to at least wait
an hour before taking any action. This was agreed to and at the
end of that time they returned with an eighteen foot piece of timlier
with which they broke open the outside iron door of the jail. After
reaching the hall they had to pass the sheriff's office where eight or
ten armed men were on guard. These were forced to give way and
were shoved into the office and held there. The keys were taken
from Reynolds and the cell door opened.
]\[cCrory had heard them coming and, determined not to "die
witli his boots on," had removed them. When the leaders entered
the cell they foimd him lying on his face. Tliey caught him by the
hair, raised his head up, placed a noose around his neck and half
dragged, half carried him to the hall. A railing blocked the way
here and in order to prevent premature strangulation, he was lifted
over this. Outside, he was taken to the Mill creek bridge on Court
street, the rope tied to a post of the railing, and he was thrown over.
A man made a motion that he be left there for one hour, which
was duly seconded and carried. During the interim, a collection to
defray funeral expenses was taken uji, and arrangements made witli
the imdertaker. At the end of the hour "Fatty Johnson," the under-
taker, appeared witli a spring wagon. Six men pulled McCrory up
and got him ])artially into the wagon. The incident was closed.
Certainly there had been no delay or miscarriage of justice and not
a cent of expense to the county.
THE MORRIS-SHANNON AFFRAY
On November 15, 1860, AVilliam Governeur Morris shot and killed
John Shannon, editor of the Delta. This affray grew out of tiie
bitterness engendered in the political cam])aign which had just been
brought to a close, and for a correct understanding of the motives
actuating the men, it is necessary to relate some of the verlial ])ass-
ages between them.
The Visalia Sun had been sta-rted during this campaign as an
organ of the Republican party, the Ddfa supporting Breckenridge.
]\rorris, it was stated, controlled tlH> jiolicy of the Smi and contributed
to it editoiiallv.
94 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
In the first issue of tlie Delta after the election there appeared
a statement from Shannon as follows : "To the Public : In the last
issue of the Sun I find a card signed by William Governeur Morris,
in which is the following language: 'I have endeavored to obtain
satisfaction from Mr. Shannon for his personal abuse of me in his
paper, but have been unable to do so.' " After this follow copies
of a portion of the correspondence. "On the loth of September
last I received a note from Mr. Morris by the hands of two men,
who immediately left without stating the object of their visit or the
purport of the note of which they were the bearers, thus affoi'ding
me no opjiortunity to give them a written answer or to refer them
to my friend. Regarding this conduct on the part of these messengers
as a deliberate insult, and finding one of them on the streets, I com-
menced, without any ceremony, to chastise him for his imi^ertinence.
(This was A. J. Atwell.) In so doing I injured my right hand, an
injury which has since proved to be more serious thau was at the
time supposed. Mr. Morris was informed of the fact through Mr.
Beckham, and requested to wait until such time as I could have the
full use of my hand." Shannon goes on to state that Morris agreed
to tliis and was to await an answer from Mr. Beckham, which had
not been given because Shannon's hand was not yet well, and also
that both Morris and Tate knew that he had also met with an accident
to his other hand. He accuses them of violating the rules of the code
and concludes by saying, "Inasmuch as Mr. Morris has chosen to
retire from his position, I have only to say that hereafter, should
he or any of his kind feel aggrieved by any act or word of mine, they
have only to call \\\Kn\ me, with the assurance tliat I will be prepared
to arrange matters with them very summarily, and without the inter-
positions of friends or a resort to the code."
November 15, 1860, a card appeared ' from Morris denouncing
Shannon as a liar, coward and blackguard and stating that he would
]3ay him no further attention. The affair occurred the same day.
The version given by both the Sun and the Delta was :
"On Thursday evening Shannon entered the office of W. P.
Gill, Esq., where Morris was sitting. Shannon held in his hand a
cocked pistol, and on entering raised the pistol, at the same time
saying, 'Morris, are you armed?' Morris sprang to his feet and
grappled with his o])ponent. Shannon being the taller of the two
Morris was unable to disarm him and Shannon beat him severely
upon the head with the jiistol, inflicting nine severe scalp wounds. At
the first or second blow Shannon's, pistol was discharged accidentally.
After receiving these blows, Morris fell to the floor, covered with
blood, whereuiKin Shannon gazed u]ion him several seconds and
Innieil and left the room. ISiorris, thereupon, s]»rang to his feet and.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES iC)
drawing his i-evolver, rushed out of the south door of the building
so as to intercept Shannon before reaching his office. The ])arties
here exchanged shots ineffectually. Morris then left his position
and proceeding to the north side of the building, climbed on the
fence (Shannon retaining his position) and took deliberate aim
and fired, the ball striking Mr. Shannon in the abdomen. At this
instant Shannon had raised his pistol, but lowered it without firing
and put his hand to the wound and walked to his office, whei-e he
died in about an hour and eighteen minutes.
Shannon was a man highly respected by a large circle of friends
and sincerely mourned. He was one of the pioneer journalists of the
state, having previously edited the Placer Democrat and the Calaveras
Chronicle.
Morris later became United States marshal of California.
STAPLEFORD-DEPUTV AFFAIR
One of tlie most bizarre and at the same time most outrageous
crimes known in the annals of any county was committed in the sum-
mer of 1858. The heavy villains were one J. D. Stapleford and
"William Governeur Morris, known as "bloody" Morris, the same
gentleman who afterwards killed Shannon, the editor of the Delta,
and later became United States marshal.
It appears that Stapleford, who hailed from Stockton, had there,
in order to defraud his creditors, deeded his property, said to amount
to $30,000 or $40,000, to his uncle, William C. Deputy. Deputy had
handled this property for some time, selling and reinvesting, and, as
he claimed, repaying to Stapleford such sums from time to time
as to cancel the indebtedness. Deputj', however, remained ]iossessed
of much property and Stapleford demanded of his uncle that he deed
all his i)roperty to him, claiming that the old score remained unsettled.
Deputy refused and then Stapleford offered a reward of $1,000 to
anyone who would compel him to sign an instrument to that effect.
There being no takers for this offer, Stapleford caused Dejiuty's
arrest on a charge of swindling, and he was confined in the old wooden
jail and court house and chained to a ring-bolt, fastened in the fioor.
Apparently fearing that some attempt at the use of violence might
be committed on the prisoner, Sheriff Poindexter placed two men,
Ed Reynolds and Frank Warren, on guard to protect the old num.
On the 28th of July, a mob headed by Mori-is, who was a lawyer
and notary, broke into jail, took Deputy to the outskirts of town,
swung him up to a tree by a noose around his neck until he was
nearly strangled, let him down, and then requested hiui to sign a
deed that had been prei)ared. Upon his refusal he was again swung
up and lashed by Morris with a blacksnake until almost uuconscious.
He then consented to sign, but after being taken back to jail, showed
9() TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
signs of renewed stubbornness. However, after being chained again
to the ring-bolt and threatened again with the lash, he did sign a
deed by which he transferred to Stapleford any and all real estate
of which he might be possessed in the state of California.
This pro]»erty included that on which the Visalia floui-ing mills
are now situated, a tract east of town and a hotel and ranch property
in San Bernardino. The property' was immediately retransferred to a
supposedly innocent third party and when Deputy brought suit to re-
cover, the supreme court held that there was no law empowering it to
reinstate Deputy in possession.
Stapleford, Morris and four others of the ]irinci]ial men com-
posing the mob that had committed the outrage were later arrested
on a complaint signed by many prominent citizens. Morris was
convicted and sentenced to pay a fine of $500 and serve six months
in jail. Owing to secret influences of some kind, he successfully
evaded doing either one, and escaped scot free.
JAMES :\i'k[XXEy's high LIFE
On Sunday morning, July 1^7, 190l', James McKinney, an ex-con-
vict, murderer and all round bad man, ran amuck in Porterville,
shot fi\'e men, one fatally, lield uji a livery stable for a team and
made his escape.
McKinney at the time was employed at tlie Mint saloon as night
manager. About 'midnight he and Ralph Calderwood, known as
"Scotty," proprietor of a saloon and chop house, got together in
the Mint saloon. Both had been drinking and McKinney was bois-
terous. He tired a shot from his revolver at random from the door
of the Mint and then adjourned to Scotty 's ])lace where more
promiscuous shooting was indulged in.
City Marshal John Howell, his deputy, Jolni Willis, Dejnity Con-
stable W. L. Tompkins and a railroad employe named Lyons ajv
proached for. the purpose of arresting McKinney, who began shooting
when the officers were within fifteen feet of him. They returned the
fire and Willis called, "Jim, stop your shooting." A shot was fired
in rei)ly. Attem})ting to fire again, the gun snapped and Willis
remarked, "Come on, boys, he has no more ammunition, we will get
him now." McKinney fled, pursued by the officers. Willis, who was
in the lead, fired two shots, one of which hit McKinney in the leg.
Willis, out of ammunition, continued the chase and got close enough
to strike McKinney with his cane. McKinney had reloaded while
running and upon being struck, turned and shot Willis, the liall
taking effect in the upper lip, knocking him down.
The chase then ceased, but McKinney continued the flight to the
house of his mistress, where he procured a shotgun and rifle. Start-
ing to return to town, he encountered William Linn, a gambler, at
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 97
whom without provocation he discharged a load of buckshot, fatally
wounding him. Linn had previously been accidentally shot and
slightly wounded in the exchange of shots with the officers. McKin-
ney then went to the Arlington stables, roused the hostlers, and,
covering them with his rifle, demanded a team, threatening to kill
them if they did not liurry. While the team was being harnessed
McKiuney fired eight or ten shots towards the main part of town.
He then got into the buggy and drove up through town, shooting at
every person he saw.
George Barrow, a compositor in the Enterprise office, received
a charge in the right arm and in the small of the back, and W. B.
West was shot in the right arm and hip. West was slightly and
Barrow very severely wounded. After shooting Barrow and W^est
McKinney drove through the main part of town to the residence of
D. B. Hosier, whom he roused. He said, "I have killed four or five
men down town and must leave here. I want you to give me all the
money you have. Take these keys and you will find in the locker at
the safe at the Mint saloon, $100. Tell the Indian, referring to Ed
Isham, to give you that money. Tell Ed that I have gone, that they
will never take me. Tracy won't be in it with me, I will kill anyone
that looks at me."
Mosier gave McKinney all the money he had, about $()(). Mc-
Kinney drove again to Main street and took a parting shot at "Kid"
Tatman, but without effect. He drove north then from Porterville,
passing through Lindsay, and in the vicinity of Lemon Cove secreted
himself near D. McKee's home.
■ Sheritf Parker was soon on the trail but failed to locate him,
as McKinney had numerous friends who assisted him in keeping his
whereabouts a secret. In August, and until October, he was seen
in the Randsburg district, whence he disappeared to parts unknown,
not being heard of until June of 1903, when he was reported in
Mexico. Sheriff Collins secured extradition papers and went after
him. McKinney, however, escaped and. went to Kingman, Arizona,
in which vicinity he murdered two men. Fleeing from the scene
of these crimes he again appeared in the Randsburg region, being
hotly pursued by Sheriflf Lovin of Mojave county, Arizona, as well
as by Sheriff Collins and ex-Sheriff Overall of this county and
sheriff's possees from Kern county. McKinney, evading these, made
his way successfully through the Sierras to Kernville and there
narrowly escaped being killed l)y Rankin and McCrackeu, who recog-
nized him and in a running fight, wounded him.
On April 19, 1903, McKinney was located in a Chinese joss
house in B.akersfield. The house was surrounded by a cordon of
officers, and Jeff Packard, city marshal, and Will E. Tibbett, special
deputy sheriff, were killed in an attempt to enter it. IMcKinney ap-
<)8 TULAKE AND KINGS COUNTIES
peared at the doorway aud was shot and instantly killed ))y deputy
sheriff Bert M. Tibbetts.
THE MAGAIJA BUTCHERY
The last of the long list of bloody crimes that has cursed the
comity that will be noted was that committed in Porterville, February
17, 1911. On that day, just before dark and as the stores were closing
for the night, Juan Magana, a Mexican laborer who had been at work
in the county, entered the Lambkin-Graham clothing store. It hap-
pened that J. B. Lambkin was still in the store and Magana asked to
look at some shoes. While Lambkin was looking for the shoes the
Mexican demanded money and on being refused, drew a butcher knife
and stabbed the merchant to death.
Some one entered the store just then and gave the alarm. Ma-
gana broke through a rear window and escaped in the darkness. In
the tussle in the store he had cut his own hand and he left a trail of
blood. He escaped to a small settlement of Mexicans near the out-
skirts of town, and there gave away the knife, but escaped. Early
the following morning the officers followed the trail to the Mexican
camp, but there lost it and during the forenoon were beating the
surrounding country for the criminal. He was soon found by Orral
Kilroy of Porterville and turned over to the town marshal, E. B.
Isham.
Sheriff Collins had gone over in an automobile and immediately
took the marshal and the prisoner into the machine and started for
Visalia. The people were greatly incensed over the crime, and a
move was started to wrest the fellow from the officers and execute
him on the spot. The driver of the machine speeded through the
streets of Porterville at a sixty-mile clip, and distanced all pursuers.
When a few miles from town there was a long bridge to be crossed.
The driver kept up speed, and striking some obstruction, one of the
axles broke and the machine careened to one side and toppled off
the bridge to the dry bed of the creek below. The parties in the
machine jumped out before -it landed and thus escaped any injury
more than a severe jolting. The gasoline exploded and the machine
was burned. The officers, with their prisoner, walked to a nearby
house, telephoned for a new machine and finally arrived, late in the
afternoon, at the jail at Visalia.
Magana made a full confession, was found guilty, and on June
16, expiated his crime in San Quentin. His is the only case in the
history of the county when an execution was effected on the day
first set by a judge.
MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS
The Dcliii January G, 1861, speaks of a sale of Visalia building
lots held (in the ilav tircvious bv J. E. Wainwright & Co. The sale
TULARE AXD KINGS COUNTIES 99
was largely attended and the bidding spirited. One hundred and
fifteen lots were sold at prices ranging from $5 to $30. The lots were
in Aughinbaugh's Addition, to Visalia.
As late as 1891, lands near Visalia were by no means held at high
prices. J. H. Thomas advertised forty acres three-quarters of a
mile south of town for $60 per acre. The same year, Sontag &
Evans, who afterwards became famous criminals, advertised thirteen
lots, and half a block in Aughinbaugh's Addition to Visalia. orchard
and vineyard on the land, for $1,600.
As a showing of the importance of sheep-raising in Tulare in
early days it is noted that the fall clip of wool of 1872 was 1,-174,.500
pounds. The winter following was the most severe one ever ex-
perienced by sheei^men and yet the spring clip of 1873 was 047,375
pounds.
J. P. Majors of Visalia was the first postmaster in Tulare
county, being appointed in 1855 and serving three years. He was
succeeded by Zane Steuben.
In 1891 the lumber business was very active. Atwell's mills on
the Mineral "King road was operated by the Kaweah colonists ; four
saw mills were located on the Upper Yolo, two of which were run-
ning; the Comstock mills, above Camp Badger; the Sequoia mills,
just across the line in Fresno comity. The total cut of these mills
that year was over three million feet of lumber.
CEOSSING STREAMS IN THE FIFTIES
The business of maintaining ferries across different streams in
the county appears to have been a profitable one in early days, judg-
ing from the number engaged in it.
At one of the first meetings of the board of supervisors in 1853,
A. B. Gordon was granted the privilege of maintaining a ferry across
Kern river, free of taxation for a period of eight months. The fol-
lowing rates were authorized: six-horse team or four yoke of oxen,
$6; four-horse wagon, $4; two-horse wagon, $2; horse and man, $1;
pack mules, fifty cents; loose horses and foot men, twenty-five cents
each.
In 1855 the court of sessions granted licenses to L. A. Whitman
to conduct a ferry on Kings river, at a point two and one-half miles
west of Crumley's ranch, and to I. S. George to run a ferry boat at
the Poindexter crossing; granted to Jolm Pool the right to continue
his ferry and gave to Crumley and Smitli tlie i>rivilege of conducting
another.
COUNTY SCRIP AND GOLD DUST
In August, 1855, at a meeting of the board of supervisors, it
was "ordered that the treasurer pay to S. C. Brown tlio balance still
100 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
due on onlor tliirteen county spriji, valuin.^- liold dust at $14 jier
ounce. ' '
AN IXDIAX ErXNER
"Captain George, an Indian and a 'big Injun heap' at that, has
commenced running as an expressman between this place and Coso.
For his services he gets very well paid and would be better pai-d
had he a touch of Yankee in his system. He makes the trijj now in
al)()ut four tlays and packages of light weight of any description may
be safely entrusted to his care." — Delta, 1861.
In September, 1862, Mr. Van Water is credited with having a
factory in operation in Visalia, making a fine article of sorghum
syrup.
In 1863 Nathan Baker init in a field of about twelve acres, near
Visalia, to tobacco.
"Splendid deer skins, dressed, were offered for sale in this place
yesterday morning at $19 a dozen." — Delta, Oct. 20, 1861.
"Boating — People who have not been here for a .year or two
will be suri)rised to hear that navigation is now open just north of
town. The first boat arrived near S. Davenport's, on Saturday last,
with four tons of freight on board. Since that some thirty tons have
arrived by the same means, and regular trips will be made until the
water subsides." — Delta, May 15, 1867.
"Two hunters, living in the foothills on the waters of the Tule
river, have killed over one hundred and twenty deer during the
present winter." — Delta, 1866.
VISALIA 's FIKST BUSINESS DIEECTOKY
The business directory of Visalia in 1861 was as follows : Saloons :
Cosmopolitan, Gem, Fashion, St. Charles. Wholesale and retail dealers :
H. Cohn, H. Green. Hotels : Exchange, corner Court and Main streets ;
Visalia House, corner Main and Church streets. General merchandise,
etc., Sam Ellis, D. R. Douglass, Reinstein & Hockett, Sweet & Ja.-olis.
Weinshank & Sinclair, M. Reinstein. Stage lines: Hice & Wilson. ^\\<
cellaneous : Bossier & Townsend, saddlers and harness makers ; Knoble
& Kraft, bakers and confectioners; G. W. Rogers, jeweler; B. M. Bron-
son, gunsmith; Johu II. Richardson, painter; Douglass & Magary.
contractors and builders; Samuel Dinely, barber shop and bathhouse;
Joseph II. Thomas, lumber yard; George W. Sutherland, tailor shoj);
Justices of the Peace : S. W. Beckham, Robert C. Redd. Attorneys : W.
M. Stafford, A. J. Atwell, Morris & Brown, S. A. Sheppard. Physi-
cians: Dr. M. Baker, Dr. J. D. P. Thomason, Dr. W. A. Russell. Dr.
James A. Roberts, Dr. T. O. Ellis. Sr.
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES loi
SECOND COURTHOUSE
Tulare county's second courthouse, built in 185!!, was a l)rick struc-
ture 40x60 feet in size, of two stories and a basement. In the base-
ment was a jail, one half being divided into six cells, lined with boiler
iron. In 1873 an additional jail as a separate bnilding- was constructed.
As to the building of the present court house without the wings
(which were added in 1906), there hangs a tale. The Southern Pacific
had completed its line through the county in 1872, leaving Visalia side-
tracked and therefore destined to become a "deserted village." At tiie
site of Tulare, the railroad had ])latted a town in which plat provision
was made for a court house, and the general expectation, both among
buyers of town lots in Tulare and citizens generally was that Tulare
would become the county seat. But the legislature of 1875-1876 passed
an act authorizing the county of Tulare to issue bonds in the sum of
$75,000 for the purpose of building a court house in ^"isalia. This
naturally aroused intense opposition, not only from Tulare and the
southern end of the county, but even from Yisalia. The Dfltu de-
nounced it as a job, stating that the then existing court house was good
enough and that the building of another would be burdensome on the
taxpayers.
A "People's Convention" was called to meet in Visalia, July 15,
1876, to take action in the matter. Resolutions were passed denouncing
the methods used in the passage of the bill through the legislature, etc.,
and agreeing to use every legal means to prevent its operation. How-
ever, the citizens of Visalia regarded it as vital to their welfare, if not
to the very salvation of the town ; the majority of the board of super-
visors were favorable to Visalia and pushed the matter forward as
rapidly as possible, issuing bonds, advertising for bids for the sale of
the old structure and the construction of the new, etc.
A. D. Glasscock bought the old courthouse for $686, and R. E. Hyde
the jail for $205. Stephens and Childers of Santa Rosa were awarded
the contract for construction for $59,700, and on Octoi)er 28, 1871,
under the auspices of the Grand Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons
of California, the cornerstone was laid.
CEMKTElilES
Tulare county's first cemetery was started in Visalia in 1857, near
where the Tipton Lindsey schoolhouse is now situated. The lirst occu-
pant was a Dutchman who was drowned in Mill creek and whose only
known name was Pete. On the rough pine box containing the remains
was therefore duly inscribed "Pete in the box," the same inscription
being placed on the headboard.
Among others whose bodies were laid to rest here and later re-
moved to the new cemetery were Jack Lorenz. Mrs. Thomas P)aker.
Mrs. Nathan Baker, and a man called Salty.
102 TULARE AND KINGS COUXTIES
VISALIA S TITLE
There was for many years a cloud upon the title to lots in Visalia
and at one time there was serious trouble feared. It appears that after
Nat. Vise gave up his preemption in favor of the on-coming city, noth-
ing- was done to comply with legal forms necessary to perfect a title.
On August 9, 1857, the board of supervisors passed an order asking
congress to grant the board the right to preempt the town site of
Visalia, and the clerk was ordered to file in the land office, then located
in San Francisco, the necessary application. The application was not
received, the land office claiming that there was no evidence that the
supervisors were the agents of Tulare county. The matter was drop-
ped till about 1867. The A^isalia Land District had been formed and
one George Garish appointed receiver. Discovering the lack of title
to the townsite, he made application for the lands. This aroused the
people and stejDS were taken to perfect the title to the county for the
lands. The matter had to be taken before the land commissioner at
Washington, but it was finally settled to the benefit of the people.
BEFOKE VISALIA BEAUTIFUL CAME
In the sirring of 1860 a correspondent to the local paper speaks
thus of Visalia : ' ' This region, including the town, is little more than
a labyrinth of crooked creeks, ditches, fences, brush, weeds, etc. A
quarter of a mile out of town one is in the wilderness to all intents and
purposes. Streets are straight and square as far as they go, but they
don't go, and it takes a very uncommon owl to get to his regular roost
in the burg after dark. Wonder what the 'Beau Brummel' of the
Mariposa Gazette, who was here about two weeks ago, thinks about it,
inquiring the way to Visalia at a house about a hundred yards from
the Court street bridge."
IX THE FIFTIES
June 25, 1859 — "We hope to be able soon to give the latest tele-
graphic news received at St. Louis, by the stages as they pass through
town. ' ' — Delta.
"A protest against the contemplated reduction of the overland
mail service is now in circulation. * * * This is the only direct
and speedy (sic) connection we have with the east and its promptness
and regularity have made it an enterprise of the utmost importance to
the people of California." — Delta, 1859.
SOME ADVICE COUPLED WITH A PKEDICTION
"I would advise the merchants and citizens of Visalia and Tulare
county to encourage as much as possible men to go into the mountains
east of this valley and prospect there thoroughly, as nothing but the
discovery of mines close to us that we can supply without fear of com-
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 10:i
petition will save us from inevitable Babylonie ruin that will change
most of our fine buildings into nothing but a shelter for a lot of lousy
Indians in a few years." — (Newspaper corres])ondent in 1859.)
The following appeared in the Delta in 1859.
"We can safely pledge the county of Tulare to give seventy-five
Democratic votes to one Eepublican or mixed. * * * In Fresno
county there was never but one abolitionist and he has now left for a
more congenial clime. His portrait is to be seen at the Millerton
hotel. Mr. McCray has had the portrait framed at a heavy expense
that the passerby may look upon the Lone Republican of Fresno.
Whence he came or whither he went no one knoweth."
THE BUSY BEE
June 21, 1859. — "J. B. Stevens arrived iu Visalia with ten hives
of bees, the first ever brought to the county.
J. H. and C. G. Hart had an apiary east of Visalia in 1860, and
inserted the following advertisement in the Delta: 'Bee Advertisement
— For sale on and after the first of September next a choice lot of
honey bees in as good condition as any the county affords. Price $50
a swarm. A farm or grain will be taken as pay where it suits luir-
chasers better than to pay money.' "
ARRIVAL OF THE TELEGRAPH
On June 18, 1860, the Atlantic and Pacific telegraph line entered
Visalia and the occasion was celebrated in a fitting manner. Abe Rape-
ly, agent of the Overland mail company, took the matter in charge.
A procession consisting of every horse and vehicle in town, with all
spare stage coaches, decorated with flags and bunting, set out to meet
the linemen. A large banner on which was painted a representation of
the earth surrounded by a chain of telegraph wires with the motto "I'll
])ut a girdle round about the earth in forty minutes," was carried by
T. V. Crane who made the address of welcome and escorted back iuto
town the superintendent, James Street.
ELECTIONS HELD IN SALOONS
"Pursuant to notice a primary election was held iu the Msalia
precinct at the new saloon of A. O. Thoms, on Saturday last, and the
following gentlemen chosen as delegates to attend the Union county
convention"^ of Saturday, August 2nd: Stephen Davenport. Henry
Hartlev, W. M. Johnson, G. A. Botsford, John Cutler, Hi ISrorrell,
I. H. Thomas, S. Cadv, T. Lindsey, William Baker. S. G. George,
Lvtle Owen. John (ViW}'— Delta, July, 1862.
104 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
A VIGOROUS PROTEST
Dr. AVebb, the eeoeutric individual who obtained a deed to the
upper story of a building erected in Visalia, as related elsewhere, later
became county physician and manager of the county hospital at a sal-
ary of $500 per year. In 1871 the supervisors ousted Webb from his
position and gave to his successor a salary of $2000 per year. The
following card appeared in the Times of November 11, 1871, which
seems to indicate that the reverend doctor was somewhat jjeeved:
"Rev. James A. Webb to the perjured supervisors of. Tulare
county, California.
"Perjured villains, rebel devils and fools;
"While unscrupulous and jjerjured rebel devils hold political sway
in our demented rebel county no honest man or christian can expect
any favors from their nefarious hands.
"I would lie glad to keep the county hospital for $500 a year,
but because I am a Union man, and not a perjured rebel devil, you
will rob me of my only means of support and give my hospital to
rebel traitors of your own kind for four times the price for which I
offer to keep it.
"Therefore, I, the only true physician in Tulare county, Cali-
fornia, and the only true Gospel minister in Tulare county, and the
only Bible poet in Tulare county, and the only Advent i)rophet in
Tulare county and the only Christian patriarch in Tulare; Therefore,
in the name and service of the Great Jehovah, I offer my services to
God and him only to continue my tifty years Bible task.
"Where is your oath of office. Oh! ye perjured Democratic
demons? Where is your conscience, you ungodly devils? Have you
any reason why I should not damn you all together?" And follows
more, signed "Alonzo, the Advent Prophet, Bible Poet and Christian
Patriarch."
A no\t:l engine
• A correspondent, writing about Visalia in the '90s, thus speaks
of the engine that hauled the passengers from Visalia to Goshen:
"The engine doing service on the Visalia railroad is one of the most
novel arrangements we recollect to have seen in railroading. It has
engine, tender and car all aggregated together, will carry ten or fif-
teen passengers and baggage, and can doubtless be run at half the
cost of an ordinary stage coach. We place no high estimate on its
speed, but the engineer tells us that it has the power to move any
train likely to lie loaded at any point in the valley."
THE FLOOD TIMES
There are a great many people who never lived in Tulare county
that have a fixed idea that this is a waterless county, where the
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES ]()5
unfortunate denizens are ever parched with thirst. But there have
been many years wlien there was more water than was necessary for
drinking puritoses.
That abused individual, tlie "oldest inhabitant," tells of wcmder-
ful times back in the early '50s. But the flood of 1867 is one in tlie
memories of a great many peo^ile, and was surely bad enough. In the
winter of that year all the streams in the county were on a rampage.
Tule river spread all over the Poj^lar and Woodville sections. Deer
creek and the White river merged their waters in their lower course,
and the Kaweah and St. Johns made a vast expanse of waters. Boats
bearing supplies passed freely from Visalia to places in Kings and
Fresno counties. The herds of cattle and sheep looked sad. Many
hair breadth adventures are recorded and tliere was great loss of
property.
An account of the experiences at two farm houses will serve to
indicate prevailing conditions during this flood. Eastward from Vi-
salia, near where Packwood creek crosses the Mineral King road,
there resided but three families, those of A. H. Broder, Ira Van
Gordon and W. H. Mills. Broder suggested that all get together at
his place, that being situated on higher ground. This was done and
the men proceeded to build an embankment about three feet high,
enclosing about half an acre of ground. The siding from the barn
was removed and a raft built, their labors extending into the night.
The women, likewise, were busily employed preparing supplies, cook-
ing beans, etc. The plan was to move to a still higher sand knoll
which lay to the south and west. By nine o'clock the following morn-
ing, Broder, who had been keeping tab on the water level by means
of sticks, reported that it had receded half an inch and that it would
not be necessary to move.
About two hundred Indians took refuge on the same high mound,
and made a gala festival of the predicament. Squirrels and rabldts
in great numbers were caught and hung on lines to dry, the flood
affording both amusement and provender.
At the residence of the Evans family, near Visalia, whicii was
also located on high ground, there were exciting times this night.
The water, after a i^revious raise, came suddenly, surrounding their
house and almost engulfing some of their neighbors' homes. The
Protliero family lived on the Beutley place and there the water ran
through the windows. Mr. and Mrs. Prothero with three children
were assisted to move to tlie Evans house and then came a call for
help from the home of Mrs. "Williams, wlio lived adjoining. This was
about one o'clock in the morning, pitch dark and the swirling waters
icy cold. Mrs. Williams had a baby but four or five days old and
was unable to walk. Samuel and James Evans waded over, and iilac-
ing her in a rocking chaii-, carried her to safety. Tom Robinson,
106 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
with his wife aud family, also took refuge with the Evanses, making a
total of twenty-five gathered there. The l)arn, several hundred yards
away, half full of hay, provided the only place for sleeping quarters
for so many people. Between it and the house the water ran two or
three feet deep. Luckily, a boat had previously been constructed in
which to go to Visalia, and so the half-dried refugees cuddled around
the stove in the Evans's kitchen were enabled to get to bed without
again getting wet. Jim Evans, acting as gondolier, conducted his
guests to their hay mow lodgings.
. HARVESTING WHEAT
In the days of the early '50s harvesting grain was anything but
a rajnd process. No reapers or combined harvester then. The labor
of cutting was done mostly by Indians, with old-fashioned reap hooks.
The grain was drawn to the threshing yard liy rawhides, and the
threshing done by tramping the straw with horses in the same old
style that was in vogue in the days of Noah.
THE LOST MINE
Tulare county, like many other sections of the state, has had its
Lost Mine legend. This i^articular one has had many variations in
the narrative, and many were the people who gave time and means
in searching for the lost mine. One of the legends was that a party
of Spaniards had a mine somewhere in the mountains in the head-
waters of the Kaweah river, that the mine was immensely rich, and
that going out to Sonora with a pack train all the miners were killed
and the packs were all of gold. The Indians claimed to know of the
location of the mine, and several exi)editions were made to tind it
but with the usual success. Floods had washed away landmarks, or
something was wrong, so the Indians never quite found the right
spot.
Andrew Ilarrell, familiarly known as "Barley" Harrell, did not
owe his nickname to the great acreages of the cereal that he was
accustomed to i)laut, but to the fact that in his courting days when
visiting his sweetheart he told his parents that he had been to see
Mr. Bacon about that l^arley. The excuse served well for one visit,
but the use of it a second time caused much laughter and he was
ever after designated "Piarley."
SOME STATISTICS OF 1870
W. J. Ellis, county assessor of Tulare county in 1870, submitted,
as was the custom in those days, a statistical report to the state
surveyor-general showing the number of live stock of different kinds,
areas devoted to different cultures, quantity of different productions,
etc. On account of the small cultivated area in those days, and on ac-
count of the conscientious care Mr. Ellis brought to the task, a degree
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES * 107
of accuracy was obtained greatly in excess of present day statistics.
For example, there were one hundred and eight orange trees in
the county, one hundred of which were in a nursery. Today there
are in the neighborhood of 2,7D0,000. The area devoted to wlicat
was 2500 acres. In the '80s, when the production of tills cei'eal
reached its height, scores of ranches each contained a greater acreage
than this.
The butter production was 8,150 pounds; today over four )nil-
lion.
While cattle raising was one of the great industries of thai time,
we find but 28,60-t head of stock cattle, a number almost e(]ualed now
by dairy cows.
Of sheep, now almost extinct within this county, there were 158,-
631, and the annual production of wool was given as 872,670 jjoundii
This, by the way, was more than doubled in the next four succeeding
years.
In all, there were but 30,000 acres of enclosed laud, 20,000 of
which was cultivated.
In a letter to the surveyor-general accompanying this report, ^Ir.
Ellis qualified as a prophet by using the following language: "Stock
raising has ever been and is yet the leading interest in Tulare county,
but a change is taking place. We have to look but a short distance
ahead to see the plains of Tulare county covered with beautiful
farms, nice farm houses, waving fields of grain. The locomotive's
whistle will thou be heard."
MAX kins' party ARRIVAL
The following is quoted from the descrijition of Hie cmtry of a
party of pioneers into Visalia in 1854, written by one of tlieiii — J. H.
Mankins :
"Late in April, 1854, had one been standing on ^lain street, Vi-
salia, he would have witnessed the entry of a iini(|ue cavalcade. 'I'here
were ten riders traveling in single file — your humble servant one of
them.
"That l)road-sliouldered man, weighing above two hundred and
twenty pounds is 'dad.' He is always in the lead and is dressed
throughout in smoked buckskin with fringes up the legs, and a lumt-
ing shirt, also fringed roundabout. Add to the costume a very higli
plug hat, imagine him then with a mop of raven black hair falling
over his shoulders, with coal black, piercing eyes, seated on a large
dapple gray horse. A hunting knife is at his girdle, a six-shooter on
either side of the saddlehorn and he carries a 'sharp-shooter' rifle in
front. Such was J. B. Mankins, forty-niner and iiioneer of pioneers.
"After Dad came next two boys, nearing manhood, one girl
of eleven, a young Indian I>oy, two Jews and then three boys aged
108 " TULAKE AND K1N(JS COUNTIES
fourteeu, eight and six. We were all, except the Jews, dressed
wholly iu buckskin, well fringed. For hats we wore bearskin caps.
"We pitched our camp just across Mill creek, north of Visalia.
The tules then came very close to town and the mosquitoes were
very numerous. The town consisted of one store, kept by John
Pemberton, a blacksmith shop and a tavern. 0. K. Smith was
sheriff and Judge Louis Van Tassell, under sheriff.
"I remember quite well Mrs. John Keener, Sr. She had gotten
sight of us and perceived that we were sadly in need of repairs,
for you see, we were half-orphans. So she had Dad get some
cloth, and she made us up some clothes, for it became necessary for
us to conform to the usages of civilization."
In 1859, the following time schedule was xmblished: Overland
i^age from San Francisco to St. Louis arrives Sunday and Wednes-
day morniitgs, departs on arrival. From Stockton to Visalia, arrives
Tuesday and Friday nights, departs Monday and Thursday mornings.
From Visalia to Los Angeles, via Kingsbury, Petersburg and Keyes-
ville, arrives eighth and twenty-fifth of month and departs first and
fifteenth. Tri-weekly to Honitos — 120 miles, made one day. return
next. Tri-weekly to Linns valley.
In July, 1867, Messrs. Thome and Davenport established a
saddle and pack train over the Hockett trail to Lone Pine and Inde-
pendence.
In July, 18fi4, Messrs. Bellows, Lown and Badger, of Owens
river, started a regular (>argo train over the new trail from "Visalia
to Owens river.
W^e are informed that the services at the camp groimd near
town were disturbed on Sunday by some unregeuerate heathen who
persisted in singing John Brown, The Star Spangled Banner, Hail
Columbia, and other airs, which were decidedly offensive to the
majoritv of those present. This is verv wrong." — Delta , Sept. 3,
1862.
"Wild mustangs seem to be (]uite ]ilenty in our vicinity. A
company of young men went out on the plains near the head of Cross
creek on Saturday last and succeeded in securing sixteen of the
quadrupeds." — Delta . June 12, 1862.
NO FENCE L.A.W
It is probal)le that no measure ever passed by the legislature
of Oalifoi'uia had more beneficial effect on the agricultural interests
of the state than the "no fence" law enacted in 1874.
This law i-ciiuii-ed cattle owners to ])revent their stock from
trespassing on the land of otliers when same was in use. In Tulare
county the agitation in favor of tlie ))assage of sucli a law was in-
augurated by Stepben iiai-toii. editor of the Delta, in 1870. As
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES 109
stock raising was tlie principal industi'v here at that time, and there
were manj' men heavily interested in it whose revenues would be
injuriously, affected, the proposed measure was bitterly opposed.
The election of 1873 for senator from the district comprised of
Fresno. Kern and Tulare counties turned upon the question of
"fence" or ''no fence," Thomas Fowler, on the Democratic ticket,
oiiposiiii;- the law, and Tipton Lindsey, running as Independent,
favoring it.
The Times opposed the law on the ground that no time was
allowed the stockmen in which to make such changes in their methods
as to permit them to sustain a minimum of loss.
The Delta pointed out the rapid development of fanning which
would ensue and the eminent justice of the measure.
The issue was presented in stirring speeches to the voters of
almost every precinct by the opposing candidates, the result in this
county being a majority of votes for Fowler. Lindsey was, how-
ever, elected, as was a "no fence" assemblraian, and tlie enactment
into law followed at the next session of the legislature.
AS SEEN BY FREMONT
Fremont, when homeward bound, in 184-1, passed through the
San Joaquin valley and Tulare county. He speaks frequently of the
numerous bands of wild horses encountered enroute. Elk were
frequently started near the San Joaquin river, and wolves were seen
chasing the young antelope.
(^n April 8th, the Eiver of the Lake, elsewhere denominated the
Rio de los Reyes, or Kings river, was reached. Here the Indians
l)rouglit in otter skins to trade. His ford is located at latitude 36-
24-50, longitude 119-41-40. Of the trip from Kings ri\er to the
southern end of what is now Tulare county, Fremont says:
"^Vpril 9th. — For several miles we had very bad traveling over
what is called rotten ground, in which the horses were frequently
np to their knees. Making toward a line of timber, we found a
small, fordable stream (Cottonwood creek), beyond which the coun-
try imjiroved and the grass became excellent. * * * AVe traveled
until late through o])en oak groves, and encanqicd among a collection
of streams." Was this near the Kaweah and Canoe creek and Deep
creek ?
"April loth. — Today we made another long journey ol' nliont
forty miles, through a country uninteresting and Hat, witli very little
grass and a sandy soil, in which several branches we crossed had lost
their water. In the evening the face of the c(umtry became hilly,
and, turning a few miles uj) towards the mountains, we found a
good encampment on a i)retty stream hidden among the hills, and
handsomely 1im])ered. ))rijicii)ally with large cottonwoods."
"April nth.— A broad trail aloiig tlie river here takes us out
110 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
among the bills. Buen camiuo (good road) said one of the Indians,
of whom we had inquired about the pass, and following it accord-
ingly, it conducted us beautifully through a very broken country.
* * * The country had now assumed a character of aridity, and
the luxuriant green of the little streams wooded with willow,
oak, or sycamore, looked very refreshing among the sandy hills."
CHAPTER X
TPIE MUSSEL SLOUGH WAK
J. J. Doyle, one of the oldest settlers of the Mussel Slough
country, in whose charge the settlers later placed all actions under-
taken to protect their rights, gives this version of the controversy
in which he took a prominent part.
"In 1870 I was living on the west side of the San Joaquin river.
In the Rural Press I saw a letter written by W. S. Chatman, a
land lawyer of San Francisco who claimed a section of land near uie
which was also claimed by the railroad company as being included '
in their ten mile float.
"In this letter Chatman stated that as a lawyer he had inves-
tigated the matter and found that the railroad had no right to an
acre of this land for he reason that it was a state corporation and
was to receive similar lands granted to the Atlantic & Pacific rail-
road company. Their charter provided that they should build a road
from the bay of San Francisco running through the counties of Santa
Clara, Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Tulare, Los Angeles and San
Diego, to the town of San Diego' and thence east to the state line.
"Chatman showed in his letter that according to the Grant
act they were to file a map of the proposed route, which they had
not done.
"Upon investigation I found that there were three hundred and
fifty-four Spanish land grants between San Francisco and San Diego.
Of course they would get none of this land. I also foimd that the
west ten miles of lieu lands was nearly all in the Pacific ocean. They
knew, however, of the great San Joaquin valley, in which the Laguna
de Tache was the only land grant, and therefore had changed their
route near Tres Pinos so as to enter the center of the San Joaquin
vallev and go over the Tehachapi pass, as the road now runs.
"T came into the Mussel Slough countrv in 1871 and myself and
brother located on lands bordei'ing the Mussel Slough. As T be-
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES HI
lieved from Chatinan's letter and from my own investigations tliat
the railroad had no right to a title to these lauds, I petitioned Con-
gress in the fall of 187-t, but getting no immediate relief, I offered a
filing in the Visalia land office. This was rejected and I appealed
my case with thirty others to the Department of the Interior. All
told, I appealed nearly all of three hundred cases from the Visalia
land office. We were beaten in these and I then took a case through
the state courts, the United States courts and to the supreme court.
Twelve separate decisions were rendered, no two of which agreed.
"After this, for the purpose of acting unitedly in our fight with
the railroad, we settlers organized the Land League, wliich at one
time attained a membership of six hundred. In 1875 I was sent to
Washington, where I remained six months. I got a bill on the
calendar, but through manipulation it was defeated. In 1879 I went
to Washington again, but accomplished nothing. A decision against
lis had been handed down by the Federal courts and the railroad was
eager to dispossess us, but as we were so strong and well organized,
they hesitated to do so.
"I sent a resolution to Sacramento to Governor Stanford, wlio
was then president of the road, and at his request we appointed a
committee composed of Major McQuiddy, J. M. Patterson, and
myself. We called on the governor and persuaded hiin to visit our
country, which he did in April, 1880. We started then a negotiation
for a settlement of the matter with Governor Stanford, and had lieen
engaged for about a month in a discussion of an equitable arrange-
ment when suddenly, without a warning and without our knowledge,
the United States marshal appeared, coming for the avowed purpose
of dis])ossessing some of our men. We were that day to have a big
meeting at Ilanford to listen to Judge Terry give an exposition of
our rights in the i)remises.
"The marshal was accompanied ])y men named Hart. Clark and
Crow, who were all loaded down with arms. The marshal, i)rior
to serving any papers, desired to confer with us, which was granted.
In the meantime, a number of our men, more through curiosity
than anything else, went over to the wagon where (^row and Hart
were. Of these only two, viz., Harris and Henderson, were armed.
"All at once during the conference shooting conunenced witiiout
any special i)rovocation and Harris was killed. According to the
evidence it appeared that he and Hart had fired almost at tiie same
time. 'Harris hit Hart in the groin and he died within four days.
Then Crow shot Harris with a number ten shotgun loaded Avitli twelve
bullets. He hit him right in the breast. Then he shot Knutson, who
was on horseback, shot him with twelve bullets and Hien turned his
-iun (in Dan Kelly, whose horse, just as Crow lired. had become
nnrnlv and whirled aiound so tliat the charge entered Kelly's side
n2 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
and pi'actieally blew it off. Crow was ont of the wagon at this time,
the team having previously run away as Hart was attempting to get
out. Crow and Hart and Chirk each liad a couple of British hull-
dog pistols, a number ten shotgun and a Winchester rifle of the
largest size.
"After Crow left the wagon he walked about forty steps for
the purpose of killing McGregor, who was holding the marshal's
horse. McGregor got behind the horse and Crow reached around in
front of the horse and shot him with his pistol twice, the bullets
entering the breast and coming out at the back.
"This i>ut Henderson into it, who, seeing McGregor murdered
in that way, ruslied for Crow. They exchanged four shots and
Henderson fell dead. Then Crow left the grant and attempted to
get to his home, which was distant about a mile and a half, but was
shot dead on the way.
"On accoi;nt of this, seventeen of us, myself included, were
indicted l)y the United States grand jury for resisting the United
States marshal, and tried and convicted. I was not within three
miles of it when it happened and yet we were convicted and served
eight months in the San Jose jail for resisting the marshal, who as a
matter of fact was resisted by no one. The marshal, indeed, had
not attempted the exercise of any authority or the enforcement of
any order.
"A remarkable thing about the fight was that every man l)ut
one who fired a shot or was struck by a bullet was killed.
"This trouble was simply a legal fight on our part for our
homes. I think and always shall think that the railroad had no
legal right to the land, but that they ac(|uired .their title while we
were fighting.
"While we were serving our time, a petition of forty-seven thou-
sand names was sent to the President; the states of California and
Nevada passed resolutions in our favor and there were numerous
other petitions, etc. No one of them was listened to any moi-e than
if it had been a piece of blank brown paper.
"After we had served our time, the matter dragged on for about
two years before it was finally settled. In my case, after being in
the contest over nine years, I had to pay the railroad company $30.60
an acre for mv land."
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER XI
THE KAWEAII COLONY
One of the greatest community enterprises ever inaugurated in
the United States had its inception in Tulare county in 1886.
This was the Kaweah Co-operative Commonwealth, which in
spite of certain failures in forethought and some incompetence and
perhaps some dishonesty in management, flourisjied until 1891. wjien
it met the same heart-breaking dissolution tliat hail liccn the fate of
all its predecessors.
There is little doubt but tliat disruption would have occurred
sooner or later, on account of the impossibility of harmonizing the
discordant elements of which it was composed. There is also a
grave question as to whether e\en if successful for a time in the
acquisition of lands and timber, mills and other property, the ])rod-
ucts of the united labor of the colonists would not have been in large
part alienated by some of its iirst officers. There seems, however,
to be no doubt but that these colonists were treated by the United
States government in a manner so outrageously unjust as to merit the
severest condemnation.
J. J. Martin and B. F. Haskell of San Francisco, and C. F.
Keller of Traver, Tulare county, were the chief early promoters.
Martin and Haskell were in 1885 prominent members and office
holders in different unions or workingmen's societies. Haskell was
attorney for several of these, and coupled with a pleasing address,
possessed unusual gifts of language and persuasion. He was the
advocate of many more or less impractical schemes for the lietter-
ment of the workingman's condition and had assisted in organizing
the California Land Purchase and Colonization association, and the
Fish Rock Terra Cotta Co-operative company. Keller was a mem-
ber of several socialistic societies in San Francisco and conducted a
small store in Traver.
In October of 1885, Martin informed members of the two asso-
ciations referred to and also others that their agent had found a
large body of splendid timber land in Tulare county, and that an
association would be formed to acquire it. The first i)lans were vague
but seemed to be in the nature of a mutual company to get possession
of this tract and hold it for speculative ]nirposes. Between forty
and fifty applications were at once filed on lands lying along the
north fork of the Kaweah river, eastward across the :\rarble Fork
and including what is now known as the Giant Forest. Tlie govern-
ment price for these lands was $2.50 an acre, and as but few of the
api)]icauts were possessed of the requisite $400 to comi)lete the
114 TULARE AND KINGS C'OITNTIES
purcliase of a quarter section, a plan was in view to raise part
of tlie money by hypothecating lands to which title had been
secured. This, of course, would be a violation or evasion of the law,
but was considered justifiable.
It was agreed by the applicants that one-half the proceeds of
the iirst sales of timber l)e devoted to a fund for publicity and pro-
paganda.
The Tulare Valley and Giant Forest railroad company was
also organized and its stockholders assessed $60 each for the cost
of a preliminary survey. Many were unable to pay this small sum,
but the difficulty was met by some contributing more liberally. It
will be seen that the undertaking, however profitable potentially,
bade fair to be wrecked at the launching by reason of lack of capital.
Then another snag was struck. Land Commissioner Sparks
became suspicious at the large number of entries made within three
days for lands lying in one body, especially as seven of the appli-
cants gave as their residence one San Francisco lodging house. He
therefore suspended the lands from entry pending an investigation.
Upon this action each of the applicants tendered to the receiver of
the Visalia land office the sum of $2.50 per acre, which was of course
rejected. This money was secured by using the same sum over and
over again.
Undeterred by these difficiilties, the enthusiastic colonists pro-
ceeded. As to the action of the government, they believed that the
report of the special agent sent to investigate would be favorable to
them, that he would approve their claims and bear witness to their
good faith so that they could soon claim title. As to finances, a co-
operative plan was thought out by which some capital for immediate
use could be obtained through membership fees of non-residents,
and by the labor of those on the ground rapid results be secured in
the way of getting salable goods to market.
The Kaweah Co-operative Commonwealth Colony was organized.
Plans in great detail were elaborated. There were to be tliree di-
visions i;nder the control of managers; these subdivided into thirteen
departments under superintendents and these again into fifty-eight
bureaus under chiefs and the last into sections under foremen.
The grand divisions were those of production, distribution and
commonweal, and in their ramifications these included almost every
activity, whether mental or bodily, known to man. The purposes of
the association, it was set forth, were to insure its members against
want, to provide comfortable homes, to educate and to maintain har-
mony, upon the principles of justice, fraternity and co-operation.
It was the intention to place within the reach of all members "a
cultured, a scientific, an artistic life." An idea of the high aspira-
tions of the embryo colony can be obtained by the following extracts
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES 115
from au article by Haskell, wliieli appeared in the ofiicial orgau,
' ' The Commonwealth. ' '
"We shall have schools there — not for the children alone, but
for youths and maidens, for the babes and for the men and women.
We shall have songs and a band and the music of tinkling gniitars
under summer stars bv tlie rushing waters of. the wliite Nortli
Fork." * *• *
"It may well be that among us alone of all the people of the
earth shall be tavight courage as a creed, fidelity as a dogma, truth
as a commandment, love as a law, and purity as a truth." * * *
"We shall tell our children of the heroes of the world, not the
butchers; of the moralists, not the priests." * * "The measured
dances of Athenian days to teach them grace, the quaint ceremonials
of the middle ages to teach them beauty, modern wonders of light
and electricity to show them truth, the songs of old Sparta to move
their hearts to valiant deeds; the cruelly pitiable histories of the
modern wage slave to stir their hearts to heroic ire and bind their
wills to freedom's cause and creed alone."
"We shall have painters and sculptors, I hope, in time, though
it will be enough now for us all to be humble students." * * *
"Upon one of the flats by the river we shall build, out of the
colored marble of Marble canyon, a temple and a theater for our-
selves alone, and here also will we pursue the Beautiful, the True
and the Good."
The membersliip fee in the colony was $500, $100 payable in
cash and the reiiiaindci', if desired, in labor or material. C. F.
Keller was made general manager, J. J. Martin, secretary, J. Wright,
purchasing agent, and B. F. Haskell, legal adviser.. Besides these,
J. H. Bedstone, P. N. Kuss and H. T. Taylor were among the first
on the ground.
About the last of 1886, work was commenced on a wagon road
to the forest, and on March 1, 1887, articles of incorporation of the
"Giant Forest Wagon and Toll Road" were filed. The plan was to
pay the men in time checks at the rate of thirty cents per hour, or
$2.40 per day, redeemable in such supplies or material as the asso-
ciation had or in labor at the same rate. It was pointed out that
while nominally working for a low wage, the workers, on account of
sharing in the wealth created by the labor of all, would, in reality,
be laying up fortunes. For example, the material for a house,
valued in the outside world at $1,000, could be secured for time
checks equal to the hours that had been consumed in felling the
trees and sawing and hauling the lumber, which would not amount
at the thirty-cent rate to over $200.
Plans of the propaganda were distributed throughout the ((.uiilry
and manv persons joined the colony. Some of these were workingmen
socialists, others had wealth, culture, refinement. The beautiful i)en
116 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
pictures of Haskell served to throw such a glamour over the propo-
sition, that statements as to lands owned were not investigated before
the entrance fee was paid in. On the north fork of the Kaweah, about
three and one-half miles above Three Elvers, a town was started
which grew until it contained upwards of one hundred dwellings.
There was the company store, a blacksmith shop, planing mill, box
factory, postoffice, newspaper, etc. Work on the road was actively
prosecuted, and a survey made for the projected railroad.
There were brains and brawn and energy a plenty and excellent
work resulted. Homes, too, were made on the level land, by the river,
crops were sown, jiastures fenced, orchards planted and barns built.
Troubles, however, soon commenced. The laborers were insufficiently
supplied with food, their diet at times being confined to flour, beans
and coffee. There was a deficiency of clothes and supplies of all
kinds at the company's store. Dissensions arose, and there was gen-
eral dissatisfaction with the management. The commonest necessities
of life were secured from outsiders in return for time checks ridicu-
lously discounted.
A number of disaffected members demanded to see the 1)ooks
and especially the membership rolls, but were refused by the officials
in charge. The disgruntled ones considered that this was because
they feared exposure to the non-resident members of the arbitrary,
incompetent and perhaps dislionest way in which the affairs of the
colony were being conducted. Martin was an executive of ability,
energetic to a degree and his sincerity and honesty of purpose were
questioned by Irat few. Haskell, however, was generally regarded
as a slick rascal whose aim was to sell all the bites jiossible from
the rosy apple before a sign of its rottenness reaclicil the surface.
In spite of these troubles, the road had by 18',IIJ been completed
to a point about twenty miles from the townsite of Kaweah and at
an elevation of 5,400 feet had entered the pine belt. Here a little
saw mill was erected, and a small q^^antity of lumber cut. This road,
passing through a difficult mountain region, had l>een solidly con-
structed at a good grade and had cost approximately $100,000.
Modern tools were not employed and powder was used sparingly. In
places the grade traversed precipitous mountain sides, making long,
liigh rock restraining walls necessary. No better evidence of the
equal and good faith of the colonists is needed than the fact that most
of these walls have stood without repair to this day.
In the meantime, land patents were still withheld, although B. F.
Allen, the special agent sent here, had reported favorably. As late
as 1891 Land Commissioner Groff recommended that the colonists
should not be deprived of their lands, stating that they had com-
plied faithfully with the law under which tliey had made filings;
that they had expended over $100,000 in roads and improvements
and had for five years guarded the giant trees, saving them from
TUI.AKE AND KINGS COUNTIES 117
damage or destruction by tire, quoting details from Allen's i-eport.
However, the congress of 1890 had created the Sequoia National
Park, which included these lands, and Secretary of the Interior Noble
denied all claims of the colony, but expressed the opinion that the
settlers should be reimbursed for the improvements they had made.
In addition to the internal dissensions mentioned, the officers
quarreled among themselves and factions took sides in a row Ijetween
Haskell and Martin. The former was accused of the misappropria-
tion of colony funds and was in '91 arrested on a charge of em-
bezzlement preferred by Thomas Kennedy, but the case was dis-
missed. The greater portion of the colonists perceived that the end
was at hand and disbandment began.
Bitter hard it must have been, this giving up of home and friends
and bright dreams of hapi)y future after the sacrifice of former ties
and after the giving of years of toil and devotion to a cause. How
sickening the thoughts of what might have been! Plow bitter the
thoughts of the false men who had betrayed their confidence and
of the government that had unscrupulously confiscated to its own
purposes the magnificent road they had builded!
Early in 1891 a troop of cavalry imder Captain Dorst was des-
patched to guard the park and these ejected the colonists from gov-
ernment land. In April, Henry S. Hubbard, Henry T. Taylor, James
J. Martin, B. F. Haskell and William Christie were tried in the
United States district court at Los Angeles on a charge of cutting
timber on government land, and found guilty. On appeal the ease
was dismissed.
A few of the remaining colonists leased as a private enterprise
a quarter section of land on the Mineral King road, from Isham
Mullenix and started another sawmill. Work here was stopped by
the soldiers, but when the Interior Department learned that it was
on deeded land they were allowed to proceed.
Quite a number of the colonists remained in tlie vicinity of
Kaweah, many having secured other land locations or perfected
entries made on lands outside the park. These have all proven
worthy, industrious citizens and now possess comfortable homes
and a fair share of worldly goods.
118 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER XII
THE ABOKIGINES
At the time of the eutry of whites into the Sau Joaquin valley
the territory comprising what later became Tulare county had a
dense Indian population. These consisted of two distinct races, one
called the Yokuts. more than twenty sub-tribes of which ranged the
country between the Fresno river and the Tejon pass; the other a
Piute branch of several sub-tribes living on Mill creek and in Eshom
valley.
Among the former were the Ta-chi (whence Laguna de Tache)
in the Tulare lake district, the Ta-lum-ne, of Visalia, the Wik-tsum-
ne. near Lemon Cove; other settlements were on Poso creek, Tule
river. Deer creek, one near Porterville, one near the forks of the
Tule river and one on the present Indian reservation, others at Three
rivers, Dry creek, Woodlake, the Yokohl valley. Outside creek, etc.
The Piute tribes were the Wuk-sa-chi, of Eshom valley, the
Wo-po-noich and the En-dim-bits. An idea of their numbers may be
gained from the fact that the Wik-tsum-ne chief alone could muster
a thousand armed warriors from his own and other Yokut tribes
of which he was the ruler. While the above roughly indicates the
home locations of the larger Indian settlements, it must be under-
stood that their residences were far from permanent. The hot sum-
mer found them high in the Sierras stalking deer, eating straw-
berries and enjoying the climate; in the fall, the harvest season for
acorns, he was either in the foothills or in the oak belt of the plains,
according to the crop; in the winter, duck hunting by the lake
furnished good sport.
The limits of this history prevent anything approaching a com-
plete outline of their manners, customs, habits, etc., but the follow-
ing bits were chosen as interesting sidelights on a mode of life that
has passed away forever.
TRADITIONS
Among these Indians no traditions of migrations existed. They
believed themselves aborigines— the tradition as to their origin was
that man was created by the joint effort of the wolf and the eao-le
and brought forth from the mountain peaks— different tribes from
different peaks. The Wutchumnas point to Homer's Nose, on the
south fork of the Kaweah, as the place of their origin, while the
Kaweahs point to the foothill peak near Redbanks, <>alled Colvin's
Point, as the cradle of their tribe. These Indians believed that the
eagle makes it his especial care to guard the welfare of the human
race, and the eagle on our coin is accepted as evidence that the
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 119
whites recognize tlie sacred character of the bird. The wolf is held
to have repented the part he took in the jwodnction of man. and to he
constantly seeking the destruction of the race.
ANOTHER CEEATION MYTH OF THE YOKUTS
The following tradition was obtained by George W. Stewart in
1903, from Jim Herrington, an Indian then ill and now dead, of the
Wnkchamni or Wiktsumne tribe of the Yokuts. This tribe lived on
the Kaweah river, in the vicinity of the present town of Lemon
Cove :
"Long ago the whole world was rock and there was neither tire
nor light. The coyote (kaiyu) sent his brother, the wolf (ewayet,
iweyit), into the mountains, telling him: 'Go upward until you come
to a large lake, where you will see fire. Then take some of it.' The
wolf did as ordered by the coyote, and after some fighting, obtained
a part of the fire. From this he made the moon and then the sun,
and put them in the sky. Then it was light, and has been so ever
since.
"The eagle (tsohit, djokhid) kept the coyote at work, and the
latter made the panther (wuhuset, wohoshit) and the wolf help him.
The coyote made the springs and streams. He worked very hard
to do this. Then he and the eagle made people. They also made deer
and elk and antelope and all game animals, and put fish into the
water. They gave these animals to the people who went everywhere
and killed the game for food.
"The coyote, the wolf and the panther said: 'In time there
will be too many people and they will kill us.' Now the coyote was
sorry that he had helped the eagle make the people. The panther
said: 'They will kill us if we do not go away.' 'Then go up,' the
eagle told him. The panther answered: 'I have no feathers, I cannot
fly, I cannot go up.' 'Then go to the mountains,' said the eagle. To
the wolf he said: 'Go to the hills,' and the coyote: 'Go to the plains.'
The three went where they were told and have lived there ever since. ' '
Acorns, of course, were the staple, but it is a mistake to suppose
that the Indians' diet lacked variety. In addition to game of all
kinds and fish, there were various kinds of seeds, nuts, berries, roots,
and young shoots of the tule and clover.
Acorns were stored in harvest time in cribs made of woven
withes, usually placed on the top of a large stone and securely
roofed over with a rainproof mat to protect them from the elements.
In making bread, these, after being shelled, were ground in a mortar
and placed in water in a shallow bed of sand near a stream. The
action of water running in and out of this depression removed the
bitterness. Placed then in their water-tight baskets this gruel was
120 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
cooked by means of hot rocks and formed a dish esteemed by whites
as well as natives.
One of the rarer delicacies of the Indian's table was roast
caterpillar. When tlie variety used — a kind of measuring worm — •
was not found near camp, long trips were made for the purpose
of collecting them in quantities. A fire of fagots in a hole in the
ground was allowed to burn down to coals. These removed and the
hole nicely dusted of ashes, a few quarts of the juicy larvae were
poured in, which, quickly crisping, were soou ready to serve.
IXDIAN WEAPONS
Tlie bow and arrow was the only weapon. The bow was made
of ash or mahogany, strengthened by the laying over it of the sinew
taken from the backbone of the deer. Arrows were constructed in
three different ways, according to the purpose for which they were to
be used. For warfare and for large game they were flint-tipped.
An intermediate weapon was made of button willow to which a hard-
wood point was spliced. For birds and other small game, a peculiar
construction was in use. These were about three feet long with a
blunt point. About half an inch from the end four crossbars, each
about an inch long, were fastened. Two of these were at right angles
to the other two and four j^rojecting points were thus formed, ren-
dering accurate shooting less essential.
THE MEDICINE MAN
As with otlier tribes, the medicine man was a person of great
importance, luit woe unto him if he failed to effect a cure. A few
instances of death following his treatment was cause for his summary
execution.
A sojourn in the sweathouse was usually prescribed, but bleeding-
was also common. An incision was made, either at the temples or
the forehead, and he sucked the blood and spat it out.
His dress was gorgeous. The foundation for the robe was a
kind of netting made from the inner bark of trees. Through the
meshes of this was interwoven the brightest colored feathers of
many species of birds, together witli topknots, fox and coyote tails,
rabbit ears, etc.
At a death there were chants from dusk till dawn. The corpse
was buried usually in a high, dry place in a round hole in a sitting
posture, the ankles tied to the thighs. All personal belongings were
placed with it. Members of the family of the dead smeared their
faces black, in mourning.
GATHERING SALT
In order to gather salt, a unique method was followed. In the
mornings, when the salt grass was wet with dew, a squaw would
go forth armed with a long smooth stick. This she would ply back
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 121
and forth through the wet grass and wave in the air. The result
was a deposit of salt a quarter of an inch thick on the stick, which
was then scraped off.
CAPTURING WILD PIGEONS
Wild pigeons helped fill the Indian's larder and the nietliods
which were employed in their capture are of great interest. It
seems that the pigeons preferred mineral water, whether it be
effervescent from soda, or salty, sulphurous or combining the tonic
properties of iron and arsenic, to the ordinary spring water of the
mountains. At all mineral springs pigeons came in flocks. The crafty
buck who held first place among those who lay snares, taking ad-
vantage of this trait, made his preparations accordingly.
In front of the spring a large smooth low mound was heaped.
Next the mound, directly facing it, was dug a trench of the size and
depth to accommodate a man lying down. The front end of this
trench towards the mound was open, but screened with grasses; the
top was covered. In this he lay in wait. An innocent brown willow
stick, at its end a little noose of sinew, lay on the mound. When
the pigeons congregated an unobserved motion of the wrist, a little
raise of the stick sufficed to place this loop over the head of an
unlucky bird. Silently the game was drawn to the trench, the head
jerked off and shortly another and yet another fell victim until
sufficient fresh pigeon meat for the band was secured. It is stated
that, snared in this way the pigeon does not flutter or raise a dis-
turbance — he merely, like a stubborn mule, pulls back. To insure
another flight and alighting at the same place for the following day,
should occasion require, a few of the birds are kept alive and picketed
out as decoys.
NOVEL FISHING
In the capture of fish, the use of the hook and line was unknown
to the Indians. Three effective methods were in use. In the narrow
streams, which were numerous in the valley, weirs were made by
driving a row of willow sticks diagonally across the stream and in-
terlacing the fence thus formed with tules. On the upper side of
this structure, near one bank a semi-circular trap of like construction
was built. The fish going down stream, finding their way blocked
by this barrier, worked along it until they found their way into the
traj) through a small opening. A larger door whicli included this
opening allowed the entrance of Mr. Indian to secure the spoil.
In the pools or sloughs or other places where water was con-
fined to holes without an outlet, balls of certain kind of weed were
thrown, which exerted a stupefying effect on the fisb. They sickened
and would rise to the surface, gasping, when they were easily cap-
tured.
122 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
In the fall of the year wheu the water iu the main Kaweali river
was low, and long still pools were formed having shallow outlets,
still another method was employed. After damming the outlet, mullen
weed was thrown in until the water was so roiled that the fish, unable
to see, could be caught by hand. Scores of Indians, both bucks and
squaws, would wade into these holes and grope for fish, attesting
their success by loud shouts of laughter.
HUNTING DEER
The weapons of the Indian being to our modern eyes puerilely
inefficient, needs be that he must make up in personal skill their
shortcomings. One of our modern sportsmen, for example, could
never get close enough to a deer to hit it with an arrow, and if by
chance he should do so the wound would be too slight to be effective.
The Indian knew how. The method, as told by Jason Barton, who
as a boy found his playmates and companions among the Indians,
was this : Waiting ready, we will say at the edge of a mountain
meadow, watched the huntsman, bow in hand. When the wary l)uck
came for his morning browse, his keen-flashing vision included naught
of danger, for nothing moved. A peculiarity of a grazing deer is that
while at short intervals he throws up his head to see or smell any-
thing that may warn of danger, he precedes this by a flick of his
tail. As he grazes the Indian advances a step, perhaps two steps,
without a sound; the tail twitches and he is frozen into immobility.
There is not a flicker of an eyelash. Assured of safety, the deer once
more grazes and once more his enemy takes a step. An hour, per-
haps two hours, go by and the hunter is within bow-shot. The arrow
is loosed, and the aim is true, but the deer does not fall dead in its
tracks. This is beyond the capacity of the weapon. The shot is for
the groin, where eventually, sickening trouble for the deer must ensue
and he be forced to lie down. That is enough for the Indian. At
closer range next time, after an arduous pursuit lasting perlia]is a
day, the quarry is finally despatched.
CHARMING X SQUIRREL
In approaching to within bow-shot of a squirrel a similar caution
was exercised. With bow bent, arrow set and aimed, the Indian would
take his stand and without the slightest movement except that of a
gradual advance, would ajiparently so hold the squirrel's attention in
a sort of trance that a distance near enough to speed the missile with
surety was gained.
CATCHING DUCKS
Without a doubt, white men would find it (piite imi)ossible with-
out a wea]Jon to secure a mess of wild ducks. Not so our Indian.
Around the borders of Tulare lake existed labyrinths of water lanes
bordered with tules. Covered entanglements of these tules were
formed and the ducks herded into 1hem bv Indians on tule rafts.
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES 123
CHAPTER XIII
NATIONAL PARKS
GENERAL GKANT PARK
The General Graut National Park containing 2,560 acres, situated
northeasterly from Yisalia about sixty miles, was set aside by act of
congress in 1886. It contains a fine grove of sequoias of which the
largest, named General Grant, has rival claims with tJie General
Sherman tree of the Secjuoia National Park to being tlie largest
tree in the world.
There are fine camping sites which are taken advantage of by
large numbers of tourists and sightseers during the summer months.
The government has treated this park generously, having fenced it.
built eight miles of fire break, piped water to the camp grounds, built
a ranger's cabin and a building for the postoffice, which was estalt-
lished in 1910. Accommodations for tourists are provided by Mrs.
Cooksey.
SEQUOIA NATION.AL PARK
The Sequoia National Park, containing about 170,000 acres of
land, was set aside by the congress of 1890. Within the park are
seven large groves of monster sequoias, a score or more of excellent
trout streams, glacial lakes, caves, other natural wonders of a varied
character and mountain scenery of surpassing beauty.
Its control and management are vested in the Secretary of the
Interior, with military assistance in supervision during the summer
months. Shortly after the government assumed control, improvement
work in the way of rendering its attractions accessible to the publi(>,
and facilitating its jDrotection from fire, commenced, and have liccn
carried on ever since.
In the summer of 1900 the Colomy Mill road was repaired and
widened, and in 1903 the extension of this road to the forest was
completed. New trails to the extent of three hundred and twenty
miles have been built, the most important being the "south fork"
trail, Quinn's Horse Camp trail, the Black Oaks trail connectiuu tlie
Sequoia and General Grant parks, Alta meadows trail, seven mile hill
trail, Clough's cave — Cold Si)ring trail.
In 1907 a telephone line connecting Three Rivers with the
General Grant forest was built and in 1908 and 1910 Quinn's Horse
Camp and Atwell's mill were resjiectively connected with Three
Rivers by telejihone.
In addition, five ranger cabins have been built, horse }iastures
for the use of rangers fenced, and one hundred and twenty-nine miles
liM TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
of streams stocked with trout. In 1904 a herd of elk were introduced
in the territory lying along the middle fork of "the Kaweah, their
egress being prevented by the erection of three and one-half miles
of strong, high fence. These have thrived and nmltiplied. Wild
turkeys and pheasants have also been introduced.
A })ostoFfice called Ranger was established at Giant Forest in
li)07. and in 1911 a commodious postoffice building was erected.
A segregation and classification of the land in both the Sequoia
and General Grant parks shows: merchantable timber, 92,160 acres;
grass land, 5,760 acres; desert, 4,477 acres; woodland, 62,768 acres.
The first ranger for park duty was appointed in 1900, and the
force has since been increased to five as follows : Superintendent, "Wal-
ter Fry; rangers, C. W. Blossom, stationed at Hockett meadows;
John von Gruningen, stationed at Ranger ; H. T. Britten, stationed at
Quinn's Horse Camp; Milo Decker, stationed at General Grant
park.
The number of tourists visiting the park regions has increased
annually as year by year the knowledge of the natural beauties and
scenic marvels therein became general, and as the facilities for reach-
ing the. points of interest and remaining there with comfort have
improved. These now number from four to eight thousand.
In 1902 Messrs. Broder and Hopping established a stage and ]iack
train service to the Giant Forest and operated a boarding house
there, but gave up the enterprise in 1908.
In 1910 the River Inn Company was formed and established
hotels at Three Rivers and at the forest to cater to the tourist trade,
also operating a stage line between the two points and maintaining a
saddle horse and pack train service to points of interest beyond. This
company planned the erection in 1912 of a new hotel at the forest
and general extensive improvements in service, but a profitable
showing not being made during .the two years of operations, the
enterprise was abandoned, the property of the company sold, and its
activities distributed.
THE SEQUOIA NATION.tL FOREST ITS HISTORY, ORGANIZATION AND OBJECT.
The Sequoia National Forest includes the greater part of the
mountain region of Tulare county. It extends from Poso creek on
the south across, and includes the upper Deer ci-eek, Tule river and
Kaweah river basins, and is bounded by the Kings ri\(>r on the
north. Kern river and Tyndall creek constitute the east boundary,
while a somewhat irregular line following roughly the lower foothill
line marks the west.
Tlie forest has an area of 1,220,000 acres, roughly 2,000 square
miles, or about five-twelfths of the area of the county. It includes
within its borders the Secpioia and General Grant National Parks,
but is wliollv distinct from tlieiii in its administration. The parks
TULAEE AXD KINGS COUNTIES 125
are iiuder the Department of the Interior, while the Forest is nnder tlie
Department of Agriculture.
The tirst proclamation creating the Sequoia National Forest
was made July 1, 1908. It then included a territory extending from
Bakersfield on the south to Kings river on the north. By the procla-
mation of July 1, 1910, all of this territory east of the Kern river and
south of Tyndall creek was cut off and made the Kern National
Forest. At the same time small patented tracts were eliminated,
while other unpatented lands were added.
The Sequoia National Forest as a whole is under the manage-
ment of the forest supervisor, who is assisted by the deputy forest
supervisor, forest assistant and forest clerk. It is divided for admin-
istrative purposes into five districts, each in charge of a district
ranger, with one or more assistant I'angers. During the fire season
the force is increased by the addition of several forest guards to
each district. ,
The work carried on by the rangers and guards may be bfcst
described under the headings, timber sales, free use, special use, fire
patrol and fighting fire, surveys of boundaries and administrative
sites, June 11 examinations, grazing, forest planting, improA-ements
and miscellaneous executive duties.
All mature timber on the Forest not needed for seed trees is for
sale, either in small quantities or large. You can buy shake, post or
]3icket timber up to $50 in value directly from the district ranger, or
if you want more than this amount the supervisor will negotiate the
sale. A long term saw timber contract is usually made by the district
forester through the supervisor.
The Forest Service recognizes a certain right of the home builder
residing in and near the Forest to the use of its natural resources,
and it encourages and aids him in the development of his home by
giving him free of charge post, picket or shake timber, or fuel up to a
value of $20 annually. Each district ranger usually has his free use
area staked out, and the trees to be given away are blazed and
stamped "U. S." An ap])licant is then given a free use permit for
the quantity of timber desired under the limit above mentioned and
is directed to the marked area.
If you wish to enclose a pasture, build a corral, a residence, a
shop, a ditch or a road on National Forest land you apply for a
special use permit. If the use is found to be feasible and not likely
to become detrimental to tlie interests of the Forest a permit for the
use of the land involved will be granted. A charge may or may not
lie made for this i)ermit, dejuMiding upon the nature of the use con-
templated.
Fire fighting is the grcvit hug bear of the forest oHicer. lie is
on the (jui rirr from about .luiic 1. when the grass liegins to turn
brown and llie underbrush to crackh' dryly under his feet, until lnt(
]2(i TULABE AND KINGS COUNTIES
Sei)tember or October brings the first welcome rains. During this
trying season lie ever strains his eyes for fire, sniffs the breeze for
smoke and listens anxiously for rumors of fire within the borders of
the forest. Even his vslumbers are disturbed l)y visions of the
haunting demon.
He is well iirepared, however, to cope with it when the fire does
break out. The areas of greatest fire danger are swejit In- the
watchful eyes of the lookouts, who are usually equipped with field
glass, sight compass and contour map fastened upon a table properly
oriented, so that a bearing may be taken upon the point where smoke
is sighted, telephoned to the next lookout, who likewise takes a bear-
ing upon the fire from his view ]ioint. Thus data are obtained which
enable the lookouts to locate the fire accurately and report it to the
ranger in whose district it is. Fire tool boxes are placed at con-
venient points throughout the district, and, where needed, caches
of food. The district ranger is thus enabled to call up the nearest
forest guard, per diem guard, state fire warden or citizen and start
tools, provision and men to the fire within a few minutes after he
receives the alarm.
When the reserves were first established no provision was made
for the utilization by homesteaders of the available agricultural land.
This was for the time being virtually locked up. However, this defect
was remedied by the Act of June 11, 1906. Under this act a person
qualified to make homestead entry may make application to the dis-
trict forester for any tract of vacant land within the forest which
he believes to be agricultural in character. A careful field examina-
tion will then be made by the ranger in charge of the district, and if
the land is found to be chiefly valuable for agriculture and not needed
for public purposes it will be listed as such, and thus restored to
entry. Many such tracts liave been and ai'e l>eiug listed and reo]iened
to entry.
Grazing is one of the most important branches of the forest
ofiicer's work, and occupies a large portion of his time. 10,000 head
of cattle are yearly pastured upon the Sequoia, while at the same
time tourist pastures and reserves are being maintained from which
all cattle are excluded.
Considerable areas have already been planted to big tree, yellow
pine and sugar pine seed, while experimental plots have been ]ilanted
at various places throughout the Forest with a view to determining
the method of tree propagation best adapted to this region. This
branch, however, is still in the early stages of its development.
Since the creation of the Sequoia two hundred and uinety-eiglit
miles of new trail have been built at a cost of :}^22,392; two hundred
and seventy-two miles of telephone lines costing $10,SS0; eight bridges
at a cost of $2,000 ;• three and sevent.v-five-hundredtlis miles of
road, $750; besides numerous tourist pastures, drift fences and cor-
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 127
rals for the proper liaudliug of stock. Each district rauger has his
house, barn and other buildings at his winter headquarters in the
low country, as well as a cabin at his summer headquarter's in the
high mountains.
Unlike the National Parks the National Forest imposes no
unusual restrictions upon fishing and hunting within its borders.
Only the just laws established by the state of California for the regu-
lation of these sports obtain here. As every statutory ranger is a
state deputy game and fish commissioner, it is his duty to enforce
these laws, and he usually does his duty. — G. W. Purdy.
MOUNTAIN TRAILS
The first trail across the Sierra Nevada mountains within the
limits of what now constitutes Tulare county was partially constructed
in 1861 by John Jordan. It took its origin in the Yokohl valley,
crossed the Blue ridge, wound around by Peck's canyon through
Quinn's Horse Camp and following down Little Kern to Trout mead-
ows, thence up Big Kern to a point below where Kern lakes now are,
crossed the river and, proceeding eastward via Monache meadows, was
to strike Owens river below the lake.
The pressing need of a shorter and quicker route for the host
of prospectors eager to reach the new mines warranted the project.
Mr. Jordan secured a charter to maintain it as a toll road and com-
pleted nearly all the work on this side of Kern river in 1861. In 1862,
while attempting the passage of Kern river on a raft, he was drowned.
There were four in the party, the others being his two sons, Allen
and Tolbert, and a man named Gashweiler. Allen remained on shore ;
Gashweiler, as the raft liocaiiio uiiiiianageable in the swift current,
jumjx'd onto a rock. Tolbcil ^i;il)l)('d a limb of a tree which lay on
the water and swung himself to safety on its trunk. Mr. Jordan was
tipped off, and although a jjowerful swimmer, was sucked under by
the strong current and drowned, the body never being recovered.
In the following year the sum of $1,600 was raised by suliscriji-
tion in Msalia to complete the trail. G. W. Warner undertook the
work and finislied it, building a bridge across Kern river. Tlie magni-
tude of this latter undertaking will be better realized wlien it is
understood that all chains, harness, stretcliers and implements liad
to be ])acked from Visalia.
In 1863 J. B. Ilockett built the trail which bears his name. This,
commencing at Three Bivers, proceeded up the south fork of the
Kaweah, passing the Hockett lakes and meadows and joined the
Jordan trail, continuing on its route to Big Kern. Instead of cross-
ing the river at the same point, however, it continued up the stream to
a jioint near the lower Funston meadows, whence crossing and ascend-
ing the wall of tlie Kern canyon, it made its way via the Wliitney
meadows to the crossing of Cottonwood creek, near tlie hikes, and
128 TULARE AXD KINGS COUNTIES
thence down to Independence. This trail, though altered to eliminate
steep pitches and other difficult sections, is followed today, practically
as laid out fifty years ago.
The trail from Eshom valley through to Owens river by way of
Kings river canyon, was an old Indian trail, as in part the others
were.
COUNTY EOADS DURING THE LATE FIFTIES
At this i)eriod roads were few in number, the principal being
these: The stage road to Stockton, which proceeded westerly as far
as the old white house, on the Goshen road and then turned in a
northwesterly direction to Cross creek; the two immigrant roads to
Los Angeles; the road to Woodville which passed what is now the
Mineral King orchard, crossed the Ship bridge and continued on to
the Thomas mill in the mountains; a road through the Packwood
district which proceeded in a westerly direction from near the south
city limits of Visalia ; a road proceeding west from the Ship, or
Cutler bridge to the old Warren Matthews place on Elbow creek, and
thence by the Bass Parker (now Rush) place to Smith's on Kings
river and known as the upper Stockton road.
Due north of town lay a swamp, the St. John's river not yet
having been formed. The first road made to cross this proceeded by
the Joe Roger's (now Pratt) place and connected with the Stockton
road. The Pacheco Pass, or Gilroy road, proceeded west through
"tin can alley," now West Oak street, crossed Kings river at Mat
Isely's point, then turned west four miles to Kingston, thence in a
northwesterly direction by the head of Fresno slough, passing Fire-
baugh, where the ferry was located, and on to the St. Louis ranch,
at the mouth of Pacheco Pass.
One of the roads to Los Angeles left town at the old Wiley
Watson place, ran due south to Dry creek, thence east about what is
now Tulare avenue to the Evans' place (now Evansdale orchard).
After passing this it ran due east to the Pike Lawless place on Pack-
wood creek, thence easterly to near the site of the former Deep
Creek schoolhouse, thence southeasterly to Outside creek and on in
the same direction to Porterville.
The other road to Los Angeles crossed the old Kelly place just
south of town, followed in a general way the route of the Tulare road
and passed through the Buzzard's roost.
The road from the western portion of Tulare county to the
coast, crossing the coast range through the Lawless Gap, follows
essentially the route taken by John Hawpe, Bert T^awless and W. H.
Mills, who in 1856 traveled to the coast and thence to Los Angeles,
with many yoke of o.xen. which they there exchanged for stock
cattle, securing eight head for each voke.
TULARE AND KIXGS COUNTIES 129
A road from Warren Matthews place on Elbow creek through
Visalia to Kern river was surveyed and ordered built in 1857. Five
district overseers were appointed by the supervisors in charge of
sections as follows: First district — north of Kaweah and Mill creek,
W. Matthews; Second district — Kaweah river to Elk bayou, Wiley
Watson; Third district — Elk bayou to White river, I. S. Clapp;
Fourth district— White river to North Fork of Posey creek; Fifth
district — Posey creek to Calwell's ferry.
In 1863 a franchise was granted by the legislature to John
McFarlane, Peter Goodhue, William P. Poer, H. A. Bostwick, E. E.
Calhoun and others, under the name of McFarlane & Co., to build
a toll road to Owens valley. This road, via Keyesville and Walker's
pass, was completed in 1864 and proved of great benelit to the pub-
lic. About one million pounds of freight passed over it the first
year, and it carried a heavy traffic for some time, but financially the
venture was a failure.
130 TULABE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER XIV
DEVELOPMENT OF INDUSTRIES
ELECTRIC POWEE
One of tlie most potent factors in the development of Tulare
county has been the electrical energy developed on the Kaweah and
Tule rivers. Electricity has materially aided the orange and lemon
industry and made more productive thousands of acres of valley land
that was worth but little prior to the introduction of pumping plants.
About twenty-five per cent of the valley and foothill land in Tulare
county may be irrigated by ditches leading out of the streams that
flow from the Sierra Nevada mountains. As the water from these
rivers is all appropriated the only way to make the rest of the land
of any value is to pump the water from wells. The practicability of
this method was first demonstrated at Lindsay in 1890, the motive
power employed being steam or gasoline, which were found incon-
venient and expensive.
In 1891 the Tulare County Times began advocating the building
of a power plant on the Kaweah river and persisted in setting forth
tl'.e value to the county resulting from the completion of such a
project. AVilliam H. Hammond became interested in the matter and
he, together with Ben M. Maddox, editor of the Times, sought to
interest local capital in the enterprise, but got no encouragement.
In 1897 A. G. Wishon became associated with Mr. Hammond in the
management of the Yisalia Water company, and these two again took
up the proposition. Filings were made on the water of the east fork
of the Kaweah and surveys showing the head obtainable were made.
Renewed efforts to enlist the support of capitalists were made, but
without success. Mr. Hammond then went to London and explained
the proposition to his brother, John Hays Hammond, the famous
mining engineer. He at once agreed to put up one-half the money
needed and on the strength of this, Leo]iold Hirsch agreed to supply
the remainder. Mr. Hammond at once cabled the good news to
Visalia and it was received here with nmch rejoicing.
In the fall of 1898 the work of building a flume for the No. 1
power house was begun and the plant was completed in June, 1899.
The water was diverted from the east fork of the Kaweah river at a
point below Cain's Flat, on the Mineral King road, carried by flume
seven miles, whence a drop of nine hundred feet to the power house
was secured, developing about two thousand horse power.
In 1902 John Hays Hammond bought out the interest of Mr.
Iliiscli. the latter gentleman being dissatisfied on account of failure
to ]>a\- dividends. Ben M. Maddox, in 1902, succeeded A. G. Wishon
TULAKE AND KIN(iS COUNTIES l.!!
as business manager, a i)08ition lie holds at the present time. William
H. Hammond remained president of the company until he died, in
1908, when he was succeeded by John Coffee Hays, the present chief
executive. The company now has sub-stations at Visalia, Tulare,
Tipton, Delano, Ducor, Porlerville, Lindsay, Exeter, i.emon Cove and
Venice.
The No. 2 power house on the Kaweah was completed in lito."),
as was the auxiliary steam plant in Visalia. The Tule river plant
was finished in 1!)()9, which made a combined installation of six
thousand kilowatts. Nine hundred pumping plants are operated. An
addition of one-thousand horse power is now being added to the steam
plant in Visalia and two more plants on the Kaweah river are in
course of construction, which will add ten thousand horse power to
the system. The conservation of water for the operation of these
plants has necessitated extensive engineering works in the high
Sierras. Eagle lake has been tajjped and its stored supply is ready
for use at seasons of low water. Wolverton creek has been dammed,
creating an immense reservoir at Long Meadows.
In addition to the pumping load, the company supplies light
and power for all jmrposes in the cities of Visalia, Tulare, Porter-
ville, Lindsay and Exeter, and in the towns of Tipton, Delano, Rich-
grove, Ducor, Terra Bella, Strathmore, Lemon Cove, Woodlake and
Klink. It also supplies the power to operate the Visalia electric
road. The company has recently completed a large, substantial and
finely equipped office building on West Main street, in Visalia.
The San Joaquin Power Company, a Fresno institution, supplies
power at Dinuba and Orosi, in the northern end of the county, and
also southeast of Tulare along the Santa Fe railroad. This company
is building a water-power ]ilant on the Tule river.
The Pacific Light and Power company is building a tower line
across the county to take current from Big creek in Fresno coiintx-
to Los Angeles.
The Tulare County Power Company is building a steam plant
at Tulare, the current to be used in the cities of Tulare, Exeter and
Lindsay, and the surrounding neighborhoods. This company has
a filing on the Tule river and work is being done on the conduit that
is to take the water from the river to the power-house, which is
to be located near Globe. This is a joint-stock company with co-
operative features, financed locally. Messrs. Holley & HoUey, of
Visalia, promoted the enterprise and its success seems assured.
Stockholders were secured in large part among the users of power
for pumping and to these is granted a lower rate than that ac-
corded to non-stockholders.
IRKTGATIOX
Irrigation in Tulare cduntv dates almost from the countv's or-
131' TULARp] AND KINGS COUNTIES
g-anizatiou. Tlie waters from a ramitied network of ditches, from
several lumdred artesian wells, from thousands of electrically oper-
ated pumping plants, is now distributed to almost every portion of
the foothill and valley section.
No estimates may be made of the increased productivity, in-
creased value due to more profitable kinds of crops, increased capa-
city for supi)orting population and the other incalculable benefits
accruing from the distribution of water and its intelligent use. Yet
the hisory of irrigation development here and the causes thereof
differ so materially from that of the reclaimed districts that a few
words of explanation and comparison are necessary.
In the first place, water did not here cause "the desert to blos-
som as the rose," for the reason that no desert ever existed. True,
there were originally vast semi-arid plains. These in later years,
without a drop of water artificialh' applied, produced banner wheat
crops. In 1886 this yield amounted to fourteen thousand carloads,
and for many seasons Tulare held first rank in wlieat production
among California counties.
But in the sections favored by the early settlers — the delta lands
of the Four Creeks country, there was not even semi-aridity. Here
was a vast, eye-delighting oasis. Here, beneath groves of oak ex-
tending miles and miles in either direction, lush, rank meadow grass
thrived. Here, as far as the eye could follow was a tract where
verdure was perennial, where riotous growth almost unceasingly
persisted. Both in the winter by reason of the rains, and in May
and June by reason of the melting snow of the mountains, much
land was subject to overflow. Swamps and sloughs were numerous,
and a system of drainage would have been beneficial.
The activity of the pioneers in taking out water was usually for
the purpose of securing stock water on lands not bordering' streams,
and to irrigate lands for a second or fall crop of corn and i)umpkins
after hay had been cut. It was not until a much later day. when
a general influx of new .settlers desirous of farmdng and jilanting
to vineyards and orchards, lands hitherto held suitalile only for
grain farming, that the value of the water rights secured l)y these
early diversions was realized.
The first effort to irrigate lands about Visalia was made in
1854, when Dr. Reuben Matthews, assisted by his neighbors, cut a
ditch from Mill creek to his mill near town. The ditch was intended
to bring water not only to run the mill, but also to irrigate lands
for gardens. In later years the Jennings' and one or two other
ditches obtained their water from this sluiceway. The Persian ditch
dates also from 18o4, the Evans and Fleming from '58. the Watson
from 1855 or 1856. and the Birch from the early '60s. In the period
from 1865 to 1872. a numl)er of irrigation jirojects were inaugurateil.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 133
chief among- which were the Pioneer, the People's Consolidated and
the Wutchumma ditch companies. The pioneer, organized in 1866,
took its water from the Tule river, well np into the hills, and cov-
ered the territory adjacent to Porterville. The People's Consoli-
dated Ditch Company bnilt its big canal of about twenty feet in
widtli in 1871, the head being taken from the Kaweah, a few miles
west of Lemon Cove. While the first work of this system did not
begin until this date, many of the water rights secured dated as far
back as the '50s, and were obtained by a consolidation of the interests
of the owners with the new organization.
In 1872 the Wutchumma company organized, and commenced the
construction of a sj'stem which now consists of about forty miles of
main and branch ditches. The water is taken from the Kaweah near
its intersection with the St. John about eighteen miles east of
Visalia, and is carried to points ten miles west of Visalia. Bravo
Lake, situated near the intake of this canal, is used as a stor-
age reservoir for flood waters so that a supply is maintained
throughout the year.
Numerous other diversions, including- tlie Tulare District Com-
pany, under the Wright Act, have been made from the Kaweah and
St. John rivers so that today twenty-nine corporations divide their
waters. All but two of these secure their flow below the point of
divergence.
The amount of water in the river at this point probabh- aver-
ages during the three months of April, May and June in the neigh-
borhood of twelve hundred cubic feet per second, rapidly dropping
then until mid-summer, when it is negligible. Necessarily, the ap-
portionment to each company of its proper share has been fraught
with difficulties, and consideral)le expensive litigation has resulted.
In order to best secure their rights by being able to act unitedly and
harmoniously, the ditch companies taking water from these two
streams have formed the Kaweah River Watei- Association and the
St. John River Water Association. A spirit of compromise has
been fostered and in 1907 a threatened law suit of enormous pro-
portions was settled in this way; one of the features of the agree-
ment being that the water in the two streams is divided equally
until such time as a low stage of eighty cubic feet is reached. The
entire flow is then diverted into the Kaweah and runs there until
the first day of October. Then, if the flow exceeds eighty cubic feet,
or as soon thereafter as it does, the stream is again equally divided.
Diversion dams at the confiluenee of these streams and some
kind of a division of water tliere, date from 189l'. In 1911 a struc-
ture of cement dams and confining walls was completed so that now
perfect control and equitable di^^sion is made possil)le.
The next great irrigating enterprises were the Alta and Tulare
134 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES
irrigation districts, organized nnder the Wriglit law, which pro-
vides for the issuance by a community of l)onds which become a
lien on the property in the district.
ALTA DISTRICT
In the early '80s, along Kings river and near Traver there lay
some large tracts of land owned by Darwin & Ferguson, who were
engaged in stockraising. Their brand was "76," and the country
was called the 76 country. Considerable attention was also given
to grain raising, and good crops could generally be had with the
usual rainfall.
In 1881 P. Y. Baker and D. K. Zumwalt conceived the idea of
bringing water onto the land and organized the 76 Land and Water
comiiany. A main canal one hundred feet wide on the bottom and
deep enough to carry a stream of water five feet deep, together with
several large laterals, was constructed, the point of diversion being
on Kings river, about fourteen miles northeast of Eeedley.
Now, in 1888, an irrigation district under the Wright law was
projected in the northern part of the county and at an election bonds
were voted in the sum of $675,000. Bonds were only issued to the
amount of $410,000, that sum proving sufficient. This district was
named Alta, and embraces one hundred and thirty thousand acres,
four-fifths of which is now under irrigation. The property and
water rights of the 76 company were purchased and various exten-
sions have from time to time been made, so that now, including
laterals of a width of ten feet or more, there are over three hundred
miles of ditch system. A territory is covered lying within the fol-
lowing described extremities: southeasterly to a point six miles east
and four miles south of Monson; southwesterly to points three miles
west and three miles south of Traver; easterly to a point one mile
north of Orosi. Portions of Kings and Fresno, as well as Tulare,
counties are included in this area.
This district has been a success from the very beginning. In
twenty years after its formation the number of land owners within
its boundaries had increased about three hundred per cent.
From early spring until the middle of summer there is water in
the greatest abundance for the needs of its dense population of
orchardists, vineyardists and alfalfa growers, which is secured at a
cost of fifty cents per acre.
TULAEE IRRIGATION DISTRICT
This district was organized in 1889, and in 1890 bonds in the
sum of $500,000 were voted and placed on sale. Work on the main
canal, which had a width of sixty-four feet and a depth of six feet,
was commenced in 1891. This canal had a capacity of five hundred
feet per second and took its water from the north side of the St.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 135
John river. It was to be about twelve miles long with seven laterals
varying- in width from ten to forty feet, carrying the water to all
portions of the district.
In one sense of the word, this district was a disheartening failure
and for many years proved a heavy incubus to every landowner in
the district embraced. The causes leading to this condition were
many, chief among them being the depressed condition of business
in Tulare resulting from the removal of the railroad shops, the panic
of 1893, and the failure to get water. This latter difficulty was oc-
casioned by litigation involving the water rights of the district; by
the series of dry years immediately following the construction of the
canal and perhaps also by reason of the lack of sufficient funds to
complete fully the plant as originally projected. At any rate, the
payment of a heavy tax to meet the interest on and provide a sink-
ing fund for the bonds, without receiving any benefits was universally
resented. The validitj^ of the bond issue was attacked and, acting
under the advice of attorneys, farmers refused to pay the tax, a
condition lasting about six years. An injunction preventing execu-
tion on lands to satisfy judgment for default of taxes was obtained.
Accrued interest by this time amounted to $150,000, making a total
indebtedness of $650,000.
In the meantime land greatly depreciated in value became, in
fact, unsalable by reason of this cloud on the title. It became ap-
l^arent that some agreement between bondholders and landowners
must be reached if general bankruptcy was to be avoided. Joe Gold-
man, a large landowner in the district and also a heavy bondliolder,
took the initiative. He agitated the submission by the bondholders
of an offer to surrender the bonds on payment of fifty per cent,
of their face value, all interest to be remitted. It took months of
hard work to secure the consent of each individual bondholder, but
it was finally accomplished and the bonds placed in escrow in a
Tulare bank. The plan then was to raise the $250,000 by one direct
tax. Assessors were appointed and another long tug of war ensued,
many property owners at first refusing to consent to the assessment
or to pay the tax.
Eventually all were, however, brought into the fold, the levy
was made and the money collected. October 17, 1903, was set as
the day for the transfer and a monster celebration was planned
and carried out, to signify the universal rejoicing at the lifting of
the load.
Some six thousand people, including Governor Pardee, ^layor
Snyder of Los Angeles, numerous bankers from San Francisco and
Los Angelefe and other notables were in attendance. Dramatically,
the bonds were consigned to the flames of a big bonfire. Land values
immediately doubled, trel)led, quadrupled. A delayed prosperity
136 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
proved swift in action after its arrival. The ditch system of the
company became the unencumbered property of the district. No tax
is levied for its maintenance, running expenses being secured by
water tolls.
It will doubtless be a matter of great surprise to many to learn
that in all the foregoing in which is indicated the development of a
very extensive system, no mention has been made of other sources
of supply equal to or in excess of that obtained from the Kings,
Kaweali, St. John and Tule rivers combined. This is the under-
ground flow, belief in which seems to have existed in very early
days. Not until 1890, however, when at Lindsay, in wells but seventy
feet deep, water rose to within twenty feet of the surface and main-
tained that level under constant pumping, did the people begin to
realize the fortune that lay below ground.
AETESIAlSr AND OTHEK WELLS
The efforts to get water from artesian wells for general use in
Tulare county were first made in 1859. At that date some of the
citizens of Visalia and vicinity sank a well, about the present cross-
ing of Main and Court streets in Visalia. But nothing came of it,
for after boring two hundred and twelve feet and finding no stratum
that would rise to the surface, the work was abandoned; but the
well was long used by the fire department.
The Southern Pacific, in 1875, bored a well near the track south
of Tipton. At a depth of two hundred and ten feet a stratum of
water was found that flowed to the surface in a strong stream. Many
other flowing wells have since been bored. But the water is tepid,
with a slight smell of sulphur and rather insipid. In 1881 another
well was bored on the Paige and Morton ranch, and at a depth of
three hundred and thirty feet a grand flow of water was obtained.
The completion of this well was made the occasion of a great cele-
bration. It established the theory that there is an artesian belt in
the county. There are at the present time about four hundred flow-
ing wells used for watering stock and for irrigation. This belt of
flowing wells seems to be mostly west of the main line of the rail-
road, and to extend to the westerly line of Tulare lake.
But the wells along the great plain sloping westerly from the
eastern foothills, though none of them are flowing, might justly be
termed artesian. The water is inexhaustible, of fine quality for
domestic use and for irrigation, and has wrought that wonderful
miracle of transforming those drj' plains to gardens teeming with
fruits and flowers.
DAIRYING INDUSTRY
Coincident with the arrival of the first family cow, tied behind
a prairie schooner, the dairy industry started in Tulare county, but
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 137
it was not until tlie introduction of alfalfa and the realization of its
adaptation to the climate and soil that there was any idea that dairy-
ing could be conducted as a separate and profitable business.
The Delta, in its issue of February 4, 1860, under the head of
Alfalfa, thus speaks : ' ' Those desirous of trying the adaptation of tliis
clover to the soil of this valley can now have an opportunity of so
doing by calling at McLane's drug store for the seed. There is no
doulit in the minds of those who have seen this clover growing that
it will be one of the most productive crops in the valley. When it
becomes once rooted, the drought will never atfeet it in the least.
In this light soil it will root fifteen or twenty feet, at which depth
water can always be found in abundance in every place in the valley
in the dryest season. Farmers, try it."
The farmers did try it and wonders have been accomplished.
It early became apparent that dairying should pay' and so a number
of farmers about Visalia formed a joint stock company and built a
creamery. This was a two-story wooden building, situated on the
Visalia-Goshen railroad about a mile west of the city limits of Vi-
salia, and was completed in 1890. W. H. Blain was president, and
S. M. Gilliam secretary.
Shortly afterwards D. K. Zumwalt erected a cheese factory and
creamery on the Tulare-Goshen railroad about midway between the
two towns. Strange as it seems now, both of these early enterprises
were destined to failure. Several causes contributed to this result,
chief among them being the apathy of farmers toward engaging in
the business, owing to the publicity of the extraordinary profits made
by the early orchards, at this time just coming into bearing. Dairy-
ing appeared much too slow. The one business appeared as a
tedious, arduous method of extracting nickels; the other a leisurely,
gentlemanly waiting for a shower of golden eagles. Then came the
panic of 1893, and the great railroad strike. The latter, especially,
proved disastrous. Mr. Zumwalt at this time had twenty tliousand
pounds of cheese on hand which he was unable to move. Much of
this spoiled. The delay in getting the product converted into cash
necessitated a stoppage of payments to the farmers and caused them
to become suspicious and uneasy and disinclined to continue deliver-
ies. Then, markets were not good. Los Angeles produced nearly
all it consumed. The result was that both enterprises were aban-
doned.
In 1898 W. B. Cartmill leased the Zumwalt and Visalia plants
and operated them as skimming stations, and in 1901 Thompson and
Futtrell conimenced in Tulare the operation of a creamery of small
capacity. Tlie skimming stations were abandoned, but in 1906 Mr.
Cartmill was instrumental in launching the Tulare Co-Operative
138 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
Creamery, the capacity of this in its first years of existence heiug
about one thousand pounds per day.
The entire growth of the industry dates from that time, only
five or six years ago. Today the industry ranks as one of the most
important in the county. The county ranks, according to the state
dairy board, as third in the state. According to figures given out
hy the creameries, it ranks second. At any rate, there is an annual
production of four million pounds of butter fat. A conservative
estimate of the value of dairy products, including skimmed milk, is
two million dollars per year.
An idea of existing conditions is obtained by quoting the Tulare
Register of May, 1912: "The creamery disbursements here today were
$97,191.26. The fifteenth of the month in tliis city is much like the
regular montlily pay days in factory districts. * * * Business
jammed at the local banks all through the day and it was simply a
question of waiting one's turn at the windows of paying and receiving
tellers.
"Nearly every horse-drawn vehicle which comes to this city
will have the cream cans somewhere about it. Even autos are used
to convey the cream and milk."
Dairying has centered particularly al)out Tulare, which includes
Tagus, Paige and Swall's station; about Porterville, WoodviUe, Tip-
ton and Poplar, all of wliich may be combined as constituting one
immense connected district; about Visalia, including Farmersville
and Goshen; about Dinulia, westerly and southerly to Traver.
There are now within the county one thousand dair^^nen with
herds aggregating between twenty and twenty-five thousand animals.
The Holstein is the favorite breed, and the grade is constantly im-
proving by reason of the importation of numbers of registered bulls.
A factor of importance bearing on the relation of this industry
to general prosperity is the fact that there are few large herds. In
fact, there are only two in the county numbering as many as three
hundred. The remainder range from five to two hundred.
The monthly creamery pay check has become a factor in bixsi-
ness circles. It pays bills of all kinds promptly; it contributes to
savings bank balances; it steadies and enhances land values.
The one thing that has rendered this extraordinary development
possible and one of the causes for the belief that the industry is
at present only in its infancy, is the phenomenal growth of the city
of Los Angeles. And as this metropolis bids fair to maintain a
healthy growth and as the towns of the citrus district and of the
oil fields are also rapidh' growing, it appears that a widening and
increasing demand assures to the industry a stable future.
Tliere are now eight creameries in the county, each provided
with the best modern facilities, machinery and etiuipment. These,
TULARE AND KINGvS COUNTIES 139
with their managers are : Tulare Co-Operative, W. B. Cartmill ;
Dairymen's Co-Operative, J. P. Murphy; Good Luck Creamery, J.
W. Drew, all of Tulare; the Visalia Creamery, W. B. Cartmill;
Visalia Co-Operative Creamery, N. J. Beck; Sun Flower Dairy at
Poplar, Ridgeway Bros.; Porterville Co-Operative Creamery, C. T.
Brown; Tipton Co-Ojierative Creamery, J. H. Drew.
DECIDUOUS FEUIT
From its vineyards and orchards of deciduous fruits Tulare
county now annually receives about three million dollars. The de-
velopment of this industry, within the county presents peculiarities.
Thus, at a time when the vineyards of Sonoma and Napa counties,
the orchards of Santa Clara, Vacaville, Suisun and Ventura were
in full bearing and iiroducing profitable returns, here, one of the
richest fields remained until comparatively recent years unknown
and undeveloped.
This neglect did not proceed so much from doubt as to the
adaptability of the section for fruit growing as from the ignorance
of the earlier inhabitants of the large profits in the business. Life-
long farmers and stockmen did not readily undertake a change.
Tlien there was doubt of finding a market, in view of the exorbitant
freight rates charged in early days.
Apparently, the very first settlers, however, planted some fruit
trees and vines. In 1859, the Delta speaks of having received some
fine apricots from Mr. Goodale, also some api^les of the Summer
Queen variety that measured thirteen and one-half inches in cir-
cumference. In another issue mention is made of a vineyard near
town belonging to Dr. Matthews that was producing grapes "equal
to those grown in Los Angeles." The doctor brought in a bunch
weighing nine pounds. Horace Thomas also was bearer to the editor
of a large cluster of grapes. Again, in the issue of August 7. 1867,
the editor acknowledged the receipt from Rev. Mr. Edwards of some
peaches of fine flavor that measured three inches in diameter and
some lemon clings eleven and three-fourths, inches in circumference.
Mention, in the '60s, is also made of samples of wine made near
Visalia, and on the assessment roll of 1860 there appeared one thou-
sand gallons of wine on hand.
Humble beginnings, truly, and containing no suggestion of the
wonderful expansion that was to come.
The first impetus to the growing of fruit commercially in Tulare
county was given by I. H. Thomas, since called the father of the
industry. This gentleman, about 1880, planted near ^'isalia a ten-
acre orchard of peaches, pears, plums, pruues, aiiricots and nectar-
ines. Mr. Thomas was a "fruit man," a careful, intelligent observer,
a member of the state board of horticulture, and very enthusiastic
140 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
about the adaptability of soil and climate here for the growing
of f I'll it.
Mr. Thomas exhibited specimens of his products at the meetings
of the state board in San Francisco and they were regarded as
phenomenal. The district was recognized as possessing most favor-
able qualifications. Mr. Thomas, however, met with difficulties in
the disposition of his product. The fruit was sent to Los Angeles
by express, the greatest care being exercised in packing. Exoi'bitant
charges absorbed the profits. However, Frank Briggs and Thomas
Jacob, the latter an experienced fruit grower and nurseryman from
San Jose, planted acreage orchards which came into bearing in 1888.
George A. and Charles F. Fleming, known as Fleming Bros.,
dried fruit packers and speculators of San Jose, noted the event
of a new district's production, entered the field and in 1889 and
1890, purchased the output for drying. The phenomenal yield of
the new orchards in the latter year, coupled with the high ]irices
prevailing, started a boom for the industry which resulted in an
almost universal desire to enter the game. The year 1890 wit-
nessed a general planting of fruit trees all over the county. The
Orosi colony of forty or fifty ten and twenty-acre tracts was launched ;
near Tulare the Oakland colony, the Bishop colony, the Chicago
ranch, the Oakdale colony, the Emma orchard and ni;merous others
were set out; near Porterville, Dr. W. A. AYitloek, Jim Bursell and
others made plantings.
In the district tributary to Visalia and Farmersville the most
remarkalile showing was made. The Fleming Brothers and J. K.
Armsby purchased four hundred acres, ])lanting about one-half the
first year; Pinkham & McKevitt, ^"acaville fresh fruit packers, with
associates from that section, set out the Giant Oak and California
Prune Company orchards, each of several hundred acres. Visalians
organized the Evansdale, the Encina and the Yisalia Fruit and Land
Co. San Joseans formed the Mineral King Fruit Co.; J. P. Morton
and William Swall began planting on what is now known as Swall's.
This furore extended to 1891, when A. C. Kuhn, fruit packer of San
Jose, purchased about eleven hundred acres near Farmersville, all
to be set in fruit. Exclusive of these orchards, each of which con-
sisted of hundreds of acres, scores of smaller plantings were made
in these two years, so that in the Visalia district alone the acreage
now amounted to some seven thousand acres.
The main cause of this extraordinary planting rush, resembling
a "stami)ede" to a mining camp, was the yield and return from the
Jacobs' and Briggs' orchards in 1889. Mr. Jacobs, from one hun-
dred and thirty-tive four-year-old prune trees, received about $800
net, the trees averaging four hundred pounds each and the fruit
being sold for $35 per ton. At tlie Briggs orchard the old trees
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES Ul
averaged eiglit hundred pounds and one tree, which was picked in
the presence of witnesses, who made affidavit to the fact, produced
eleven hundred and two pounds.
Preceding this excitement a few years there had been a general
though quiet movement of vineyar.d planting, particularly about
Tulare and in the Dinuba-Orosi district.
The limits of this article forbid a detailed history of the ex-
periences of these thousands of fruit and \dne growers. Suffice to
say that before the present stable basis was attained, many lessons
were learned by hard experience. It was found that orchards gen-
erally did not produce such phenomenal early yields as the Briggs'
and Jacobs' places; that some soils were not at all adapted to the
culture; that periods of depression in the market, if occurring co-
incident with a season of heavy yield and of small grade, eliminated
profit entirely. In the district tributary to Visalia, came, in 1906,
the misfortune of a flood which practically destroyed thousands of
acres of trees, especially those on peach root. Other lessons, too,
the years have brought.
It has been learned that Malaga and other table grapes in the
Alta or Dinuba-Sultana-Orosi district ripen very early, reach an un-
usual degree of perfection and command higher prices in the eastern
market than those grown elsewhere. It has been found that cling
peaches of all varieties do exceptionally well and are in great de-
mand at advanced prices by canners throughout the state. This was
forecasted in 1895, when peaches from Visalia orchards took the
gold medal at the Atlanta World's Exposition. Of this exhibit it
may be stated that one orchard contributed three hundred peaches,
no one weighing less than a pound. Jars were tilled with peaches
weighing twenty-two and one-half ounces each.
It has been found that the earliest and therefore the most profit-
able district in the state for the production of fresh fruits destined
for the eastern market lies in our elevated foothill section. 'I'lie
Redbanks orchard of five hundred acres, situated fifteen miles north-
east of Visalia on the Visalia electric railway, produces peaches,
plums, Thompson's seedless and Tokay grapes coincident with or
earlier than any oflier.
It has been found that in the A'isalia and in the Farmersville
districts, French and Robe de Sergeant prunes are of a grade and
quality superior to any others in the San Joaquin valley and on
account of the early maturity and heavy yield are to be depended
upon for large average annual returns.
A woi-d now as to the growth of facilities and the pi-esent status
of the industry. The first need felt by the new fruit producing dis-
trict was for a cannery. Enter])rising Visalians, under the leader-
shiji of ^Martin l\'ouse, succeeded in inducing the Sacramento Can-
142 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
ning and Drying Company to establish a plant here in 1895. This
has since been taken over by the California Canners' Association,
and made into one of the largest and best equipped plants in the
state. A few years later, the Central California Canners' Company
located in Visalia; in 1910 local fruit growers built a cannery in
Tulare, and in 1912 Hunt Brothers of Haywards opened a factory
in Exeter. Northern Tulare county growers found a ready market
for canning fruits in Fresno.
Similarly, in the handling of fresh and dried fruits and raisins.
Located at Dinuba and Visalia are now packing-houses for raisins
and dried fruits second in facilities to none; the leading green fruit
shippers have receiving and foi'warding accommodations at nearly
every station on the railroad.
Tor the Los Angeles market, which consumes about one hundred
and tifty carloads of Tulare county fruit, the Klein-Simpson com-
pany have been especially active and make carload shipments from
Dinuba, Sultana, Visalia, Exeter, Porterville and Tulare.
The shipment of fresh fruit and grapes to the eastern markets
may be roughly estimated at about eight hundred carloads, of which
Visalia, Eedbanks and Swall's contribute a little less than one-half
and the northern or Alta district, including Dinuba, Sultana and
Cutler, a little more than one-half. This large shipment from the
Alta district has been entirely developed within the past eight years,
as it was not until 1904 that carload lots were shipped from Dinuba.
For several years prior to that time, N. W. Miller of Orosi, the
pioneer in the industry, had been shipping small lots by local freight
to Visalia, at which point cars were made up.
In 1903 Frank Wilson and G. W. Wyllie, who were the only
growers of table grapes near Dinuba, packed their Emperor grapes
at their ranches and forwarded the same to Fresno in quarter car
lots. LTntil 1906 no grapes were shipped other than those produced
on these two vineyards, although in 1905 a few Malagas wore set
out.
In 1907 the Earl Fruit Company rented a house to be used for
packing purposes. Grapes were still the only fruit shipped, and of
these there were only a few cars of the early variety. The pack-
inghouse was open for a period of four weeks only. It was not
until 1908 that shipments of any volume were made. Many new
vineyards had then arrived at the bearing age. Prices for early
Malagas were alluring, and many growers disposed of their fruit
in this wav. Plums, peaches and Tokav grai>es were added to
tlic list.
This, ill (uilhiie, is the rapidly made early history of the
deciduous fruit shii)i)iiig iiidustr\' in wliat is now its center in
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 143
Tulare county. From this district shipments as follows were made
in 1910: From Dinuba and Monsou, two hundred and eleven car-
loads; Cutler, sixty-one carloads; Sultana, one hundred and forty
carloads; North Dinuba, seventeen carloads; making a total of
four hundred and twenty-nine carloads, having a value to the
grower of over a quarter of a million dollars.
In dried fruits, raisins easily lead in volume and value of
shipments. A conservative estimate of the annual value of the
product is $750,000. There are two separate portions of the county
in which the production of raisins heavily increases bank balances.
These are the district from Dinuba to Yettem, and the section lying
around Tulare and Paige. Connecting somewhat these two are
numerous vineyards located near Traver, Goshen and Tagus.
The prune belt of the county lies almost exclusively in the
Visalia-Farmersville district, although Tulare and Porterville each
furnish a considerable quota. The annual production is about
five thousand tons, carrying a growers' return of about $450,000.
The actual value for shipment, which would include cost of boxes,
labor and packers' profits, would lie much more.
The production of apples is confined to the foothill region
centering about Three Rivers and Springville. As transportation
facilities improve the profitable enlargement of the area devoted
to this culture may be made.
Wine grapes may be said to be grown commercially only in the
Alta district, where are located two large wineries. Small plants
near Tulare and Visalia assist in supj^lying the imlilic demand for
liquid refreshment.
THE WATERMELON
Though apparently of minor importance, the industry of rais-
ing watermelons in Tulare county has exerted such an effect on
the development of lands into thriving vineyards and orchards
that it is deserving of especial mention. This by reason of the
fact that, affording as it does, quick, profitable returns, the fruit
grower is easily enabled to make a living while awaiting tlie coming
into bearing of his orchard or vineyard.
The industry has been confined, on a commercial scale exclu-
sively, to northern Tulare county. The Alta district has now be-
come the largest watermelon shipping center in tlie state. The
earliest melons are grown there and the highest prices realized.
It all started ten years ago. In 1901 Mrs. J. E. Driver, a very
bright, energetic business woman, set out forty acres. The venture
was successful, and by 1905 interest in the growing of melons be-
came general and large plantings were made from then on.
In 1908 the Dinuba Melon Growers' Association was formed
for the purpose of secui'ing higher prices through co-ojierative
144 TULABE AND KINGS COUNTIES
action iu marketing. The association was inunediately successful
and has remained so.
The estimated acreage devoted to melons is twelve hundred, of
which tlie association controls three-fifths. Shipments from the
district commence the last week in June and continue well into
August.
CHAPTER XV
THE RAILROAD DREA:\I
In 1861 a mass meeting was held in front of the courthouse for
the piirpose of considering the project of building a road to San
Simeon. The proposition was endorsed and William Q. Morris,
A. H. Mitchell, S. AV. Beckham, Thomas Baker and E. Jacob were
appointed a committee to view the route and solicit subscriptions.
The board of supervisors also took up the matter and appointed
A. 0. Thorns, H. Bostwick and A. J. Atwell to view the routes
and estimate the probable cost. Altogether, eleven men, including
ex-Governor McDougal, went on this expedition. The Delta of
the time says: "They will probably be gone from two to three
weeks and have taken all the necessary provisions and refresh-
ments for a trip of that sort."
BIDDING FOR THE KAILE0.A.D
A railroad meeting was held in Visalia on the 10th of Decem-
ber for the purpose of hearing the demands of the Central Pacific
railroad. The meeting was addressed by J. Ross Brown and Wil-
liam M. Stewart, senator from Nevada. Tulare county was asked
to issue seven per cent twenty-year bonds as a gift to the railroad
company, at the ratio of $6,000 per mile, an aggregate of .$378,000.
The road was to cross the county via Visalia, a distance of sixty-
three miles, and it was agreed that the railroad should be taxed at
the rate of $5,000 per mile. The average time in the receipt of
merchandise from San Francisco was fifteen days and the rate $60
per ton. The railroad was to do it in eight hours and at the rate
of $10 per ton. There were about three thousand tons of freight
leaving Visalia for the north and about five hundred coming in
annually. On account of the increase in taxation and the reduc-
tion in freight it was figured that the bonds would pay for them-
selves in seven years.
Resolutions were adopted a))i)roviug the jtroject and pledging
assistance in the construction of the road. The committee was
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 145
composed of Dr. W. A. Russell, A. J. Atwell, B. G. Parker, Hugh
Hamilton, T. J. Shackleford, P. W. Blake, Y. B. Stokes, A. H.
Murray, Tipton Lindsey and J. B. Hockett.
Popular sentiment was in favor of the issuance of bonds, and
the legislature passed a bill authorizing Tulare and other counties
to issue bonds, but it was vetoed by Governor Haight. The people
of Visalia were still confident that the road would pass through
the town and speculation and prediction of the exceeding prosperity
that would ensue were rife. Prices of property soared, and it
was therefore a most crushing disappointment when the survey of
1870 was made, which passed through Tulare county at a point
about eight miles west of Visalia.
Shortly after the road reached Merced, in February, 1872, an-
other effort was made to induce the railroad to pass through
Visalia. A meeting was held and a connnittee consisting of Tip-
ton Lindsey, R. PL Hyde, Elias Jacob and T. L. B. Goodman were
api)ointed to obtain the right of waj^ to the route through Visalia.
The rights of way were quickly obtained and the committee visited
Sacramento, where they were told to await the action of Engineer
Montague. On a subsequent visit to Sacramento in April, at which
conference they were prepared to oEer a large bonus, the committee
were informed by Governor Stanford that he could conceive of no
inducement that lay in their power to grant sufficient to influence
a change in the route. This was by reason of the fact that the
railroad was entitled by act of Congress to the alternate sections
of unoccupied land lying on each side of the right of way. Should
the route be changed to pass through Visalia, in which neighbor-
hood nearly all the lands were deeded possession, the railroad would
be forced to relinquish this immense domain.
Hyde and Jacob, the members of the committee attending the
latter conference, telegraphed to Visalia: "Ephesians, chapter two,
verse twelve." Reference to this disclosed: "Cut off from the
Commonwealth of Israel."
It now being an established fact that they were to be cut off
from the main line, the people of Visalia called a mass meeting
on May 11, 1872, to take measures of last resort. At this meeting,
Tipton Lindsey presiding, S. C. Brown introduced the following
resolution, which was adopted: "Resolved, That it is for the best
interests of the people of Visalia to take steps looking to the con-
struction of a branch railroad leading from the town to the main
trunk of the San Joaquin Valley railroad at its nearest jwint to
this town."
Tliis was the iucei>tion of the Visalia and Goshon railroad, arti-
cles of incorporation for which were filed May 19, 1874. The direc-
tors were R. E. Hyde, S. A. Sheppard, E. Jacob, S. C. Brown, Tip-
146 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
ton Lindsey, John Cutler and Solomon Sweet. It was completed
and put in operation in the following August, amidst great rejoic-
ing. The first depot of this road was in the western part of the
town, but subsequently moved to the present Southern Pacific depot.
This road continiied to operate, but upon the completion of the
San Joaquin Valley railroad, now the Santa Fe, the company sold
out to the Southern Pacific. The latter company then extended
the road from Visalia to Exeter, making through traffic in 1898.
THE VIS.ILIA AND TrLAKE KAILKOAD
The Visalia and Tulare railroad was built by local capital in
1888, at a cost of $130,000, and proved a gTcat convenience to the
inhabitants of the two cities. It never proved profitable, however,
and after the coming of the Santa Fe in 1897 its usefulness was
over. In 1898 the rolling stock and rails were sold and the enter-
prise abandoned.
EAST SIDE EAILEOAD
On December 5, 1887, the Southern Pacific, the successor to the
Central Pacific in the San Joaquin valley, commenced what is
locally known as the East Side Line. This road runs east from
Fresno to Sanger, then southeasterly through Dinuba, Lindsay,
Porterville and connects with the main Hue at Famosa. Work on
the road was jjushed forward rapidly and completed in November,
1888. The road is about one hundred and four miles in lengih, of
which sixty-eight are in Tulare county. It passes about eight miles
eastwardly from Visalia and is the only road through the rich
citrus country.
THE COMING OF THE SANTA FE
In 1895, when the San Francisco and San Joaquin Valley
railroad was organized and the project of building a road from the
northern metropolis to Bakersfield was set forth, Visalia residents
determined at once to put forth every effort to get upon the route.
A mass meeting was held in the old engine house and S. Mitchell,
Harry Levinson and William H. Hammond were appointed a com-
mittee on finances and depot sites and Ben M. Maddox a committee
of one to secure rights of way. Tulare city also eagerly undertook
to help and agreed to secure rights of way from a point midway
between Visalia and Tulare south to the county line.
About $12,000 was raised in Visalia, and with this sum, after
a strenuous labor of over a year, all rights of way of a present
probable value of a quarter of a million dollars were secured.
Construction work was commenced in 1896 and on Admission
Day, September 9, 1897, the road was completed to Visalia and a
monster celebration in honor of the event was held. Excursion
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 147
trains from Fresno, Hanford and other points, carrying upwards
of two thousand people, came; residents from the most remote sec-
tions of the county, as well as those from the near-by towns, crowded
to see the first real railroad train enter Visalia.
A significant coincidence of the occasion was that on that day
the first Southern Pacific agent to set foot in Visalia also arrived.
A short time previous the Visalia-Goshen railroad had been pur-
chased by the Southern Pacific, and at once, upon the com]3letion
of the competing road, active efforts were made, through better-
ments of service and equipment, to retain a share of the public's
patronage, and in a very short time the Southei-n Pacific expressed
itself as desirous of extending its road to Exeter to connect with
its branch line. George W. Stewart and John F. Jordan were ap-
pointed by the Visalia Board of Trade to assist in this matter.
These gentlemen worked heartily, soon secured all rights of way
and the road was built the following year.
Soon after the Valley railroad passed into the hands of the
Santa Fe. A singular fact in connection with the sale of the little
railroad from Goshen to Visalia was that E. E. Hyde, its ]3rincipal
owner, believed that the coming of the Valley railroad would render
his property practically valueless, and considered seriously offering-
it for sale for $30,000, about one-fifth the sum he received from the
Southern Pacific. There is no record, however, of the latter com-
pany regretting the bargain.
THE VISALIA ELECTBIC
In 1906 the Visalia Electric railroad was commenced. A cor-
poration with Mr. Crossett at the head was formed to build and
operate an electric road from Visalia to Lemon Cove, by way of
Exeter. The tracks of the Southern Pacific between Visalia and
Exeter were used. From Exeter the line was extended along the
foothills through some of the fine orange orchards, and in 1907
reached Lemon Cove. The road has since been extended up the
river to the property of the Ohio Lemon Company, and it is expected
that it will soon be extended up the river to Three Elvers. LeaA-ing
the main line a short distance northeast of Lemon Cove, a branch
was constructed, crossing the Kaweah river near McKay Point, and
thence extending westerly to Eedbanks, with a spur runnint!,- nortli to
Woodlake.
THE PORTERVILLE XORTH EASTERX
In 1909 a company was formed with the avowed jiurpose of con-
structing a railroad from Tulare City to the town of Springville, by
way of Woodville and Porterville. F. U. Nofziger was president of
the company and Holley & Ilolley of Visalia the engineers.
148 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES
The people all along the way were anxious for such a road, and
very little trouble was offered to the securing of the rights of way.
Work was immediately commenced on that portion of the project be-
tween Porterville and Springville, called the Porterville North Eastern
road, and it was pushed vigorously. On the 9th of September, 1911.
the people of Springville celebrated the completion of the road. It
was a great day for the little town. There were crowds of people
from the other towns in the county, from Fresno and from Bakersfield.
The road has been absorbed by the Southern Pacific, and is now run
as a part of that system.
CHAPTER XVI
GREAT TRAIN ROBBERIES
The first of a series of five train robberies occurred near Pixley,
on the morning of February 22, 1889. As train No. 17 was leaving
that place, two masked men climbed over the tender to the cab and
ordered the engineer to stop the train at a point two miles distant
from the station. There the engineer and fireman were compelled
to dismoimt and were placed as shields, one in front of each robber,
and marched to the express car. J. R. Kelly, the express messenger,
was ordered to open the door, which he did, and one robber entered,
the other keeping guard.
Ed Bently, a deputy constalile of Modesto, who was a passenger
on the train, got off and proceeded forward out of curiosity and was
shot and seriously wounded, the robbers firing between the fireman's
legs. Another ci;rious passenger, Charles Gubert, was shot and
killed.
After securing their booty, the amount of which was never made
public, the robbers returned the engineer and fireman to their ]iosts
and disappeared.
The railroad and express companies immediately offered rewards
of $2000 each for the arrest and conviction of the robbers, and
special trains with officers, men and horses, left Tulare and Bakers-
field for the scene of the robbery. Trails were disclosed leading to
the coast, but the robbers were not found.
January 24, 1890, as the train was leaving Goshen about four
a. ni., the role of the Pixley robbery was re-enacted. Five masked
men again climbed to the engine from the tender, stopped the train,
marched engineer and fireman to the door of the express car. The
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES U9
messenger was told not to shoot, as the engineer and fireman were
being held as shields. As these train officers also urged compliance
the messenger opened the door and one of the robbers entered and
tilled a sack with valuables. Then dismounting, they compelled Love-
joy, the fireman, to extinguish the headlight and carry the sack before
them a few hundred yards down the track. In the meantime, a Dane
named Christensen, who was riding under the baggage car, thinking
that the train had been stopped on his account, got off, and was
fatally shot. The robbers were supjjosed to have secured in tlie
neighborhood of $20,000 this time.
As before, they were followed liy officei's toward the west, l)ut
not captured.
THE DALTON GANG
In the third instance, which occurred at Alila. as train No. 17
was pulling out of that station at 7:50 a. m., on Feliruary 6, 1S91,
exactly similar tactics were pursued.
The express messenger, a man named Haswell, was not so tract-
able as the others had been. The engineer, J. P. Thoni, and the
fireman, G. S. Eadelitfe, were marched to the express car door; the
order to open was given, but not obeyed. Instead, Haswell
extinguished his light and with a repeating rifle fired several shots
through the door, one of which fatally wounded Radcliffe. The
shots were returned by the robbers and a fusilade ensued. The
contest frightened the bandits and they fled. Under-sheritT Bennett
of Los Angeles, a passenger on the train, went forward to assist
after the robbers had fled and was fired on by a third man wlio was
holding the horses.
Sheriff Kay immediately i^roceeded from Visalia to Ihe scene,
and at daylight next morning found the trail of three horsemen,
leading to the northwest, which, with a posse, lie followed. No
ca])ture was then made, but in May following William and Grattan
Dalton of San Luis Obispo county, were arrested and charged with
the crime. In August, the trial of Grattan Dalton was held and he
was found guilty, but in September, before receiving sentence, he,
with two other prisoners. Beck and Smith, broke jail and escaped.
William Dalton was tried in October and acquitted.
In the meantime a fourth attempt at train robbery in the San
Joaquin valley had been made. The Los Angeles express, on
September 3, 1891, was stopyied by higliwaynien when seven miles
south of Modesto. Two masked men boarded the train at Ceres,
compelled the engineer to pull out n mile and a half and stoj).
Engineer Neif was forced to put out tlii" headlight, get a pick and
attempt to open the express car door, which tlie messenger refused
to do.
150 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES
Two bombs were then exploded under the car, the first one
making a hole in the door through which the fireman was compelled
to crawl and light a lamp.
Len Harris, a detective who was on the train, sneaked up to tlie
robbers and fired four shots without efTect. He was shot in the neck
and dangerously wounded. More shooting ensued and the robbers,
becoming frightened, left in the direction of the coast range. After
this robbery, it was reported in Visalia that it was done with a view
to diverting the attention of officers so that the escape of Grrattan
Daft on could be effected, and at Sheriff Kay's request. Captain
Byrnes, N. G. C, placed details of men from Comi:)auy E to guard
the jail from 3 p. m. until the following morning.
William Dalton and Riley Dean were arrested for this crime on
the Sunday following, being found in a ranch house near Traver, but
the case was dismissed for lack of evidence.
Before relating the particulars of the fifth and last robbery,
which occurred at Collis in August of the following year, it will be
well to finish the history of the Dalton brotliers, who at this time
were supposed to be the only participants in the whole series of
robberies.
The prisoner Beck, a month or so after his escape in company
with Grattan Dalton, was trailed by Sheriff Kay to the state of
Washington, and there captured. On his promising information
leading to the capture of Dalton he was granted immunity, providing
such information proved to be reliable. It was ascertained that
Dalton had never left the vicinity; that he ranged on Kings river
and that a number of people were protecting him and supplying
him with food.
On the 24th of December, Kay, with Deputy Sheriffs Wilty and
Hockett, Fred Hall, Cal Burland," Ed McCardie, Sheriff Hensley of
Fresno and his men, discovered the camp of Dalton and Dean on the
upper reaches of Kings river. Dean was captured and shots were
exchanged with Dalton, who escaped on a horse which he forced a
farmer to furnish him. Grattan Dalton was never captured.
THE COLLIS BOBBERY
The Southern Pacific train, due to arrive in Fresno at 12:10
a. m., was held up by four robbers near Collis shortly before mid-
night of August 3, 1892.
The robbers mounted the tender of the engine and, covering the
engineer and fireman with arms, compelled a stop. A stick of
dynamite was placed on the piston rod and exploded. The engineer
jumped and ran, making his esca^ie, but the fireman was held by
the robbers, who marched back by tlie side of the train, firing to
intimidate passengers. When the express car was reached, a stick
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 151
of giant powder was placed ou the sill of the door, and in exploding,
wrecked the car, breaking three doors, blowing a bole in the roof,
and scattering the contents in every direction.
The messenger, George D. Roberts, was lying on the floor, rifle
in hand. The shock of the explosion threw him across the car, dis-
located his shoulder and rendered him senseless for a few moments.
As soon as Roberts recovered his faculties he stuck his hands through
the open door to announce that he gave up. The robbers went intc>
the car and compelled him to open the safe. Three bags of coin con
taining between $10,000 and $15,000 were taken.
THE EVAXS AND SOXTAG TRAGEDIES
On August 4th Chris Evans appeared in Yisalia after a consider-
able absence, stating that he had just returned from the mountains.
George Sontag also reappeared, stating that he had just returned from
the east.
These were suspected by the railroad detectives and George
Sontag was placed under arrest, and Deputy Sheriff George Witty
and Detective Will Smith went to the Evans house for Evans and
John Sontag. Smith entered the door and faced a double barreled
shotgun in the hands of Evans, another gun being handy for the use
of Sontag. Unable to draw his revolver on account of his coat being-
buttoned, Smith fled, as did AVitty, Sontag giving chase to the one and
Evans to the other. In their flight they were forced to leave the
sheriff's team and rig. Smith was slightly wounded in the back and
hands, but managed to get to town unaided. Witty was more unfor-
tunate, receiving some forty shot wounds and a pistol bullet which
passed through his body, and almost proved fatal. Similar material
to that of which the masks were made was found at the Evans home.
Sontag and Evans drove off in the sheriff's vehicle, but returned
early the next morning. The house was surrounded by a party con-
sisting of former Sheriff D. G. Overall, Oscar Beaver, W. H. Fox,
constable Charley Hall of Lucerne, detective Thatcher and sheriff
Cunningham of San Joaquin county. About one o'clock, Evans and
Sontag were seen in the barn harnessing the horses and were ordered
to stop by Beaver, who fired two shots, one of which disabled a horse.
The bandits returned the fire and Beaver fell, mortally wounded. In
the excitement which ensued the robbers effected their escape on
foot, walking twelve miles to the Harvey Ward place, where they
procured a cart and team, and made tlieir way to the mountains by
way of Badger.
The result of the posse's efforts were criticised and ridiculed by
the press generally. Posses followed the trail and ou Sei)teiiil)er
14, 1892, the bandits were located at Samjison's flat in a log lionse.
As the posse approached the house a volley was fired from the inside
152 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
which killed Victor C. "Wilson of El Paso, and Andy McGinnis of
Modesto, and slightly wounded Al Witty.
Not until the following spring were the rohbers and murderers
again seen by officers, although many attempts were made to track
them down. On April 19, 1893, SherilT Kay received information
that Evans and Sontag would pay a visit to Visalia that evening.
A posse consisting of the sheriff, E. A. Gilliam, John Broder, Ed
McVeagh, Morgan Baird, J. P. Carroll and E. J. Fudge, surrounded
the house early in the evening, and about eleven o'clock thej' heard
the barn doors open and discerned the men attempting to escape.
Kay, Gilliam and Broder fired, but without effect. The cordon around
the house proved ineffectual and for some time the bandits were not
again seen.
On May 26, 1893, deputy United States Marshal Black, standing
at the door of his cabin near Badger, was shot in the leg and hand,
and identified his assailant as Evans.
Not until June 11, 1893, were the outlaws again located. A i)osse
composed of United States Marshal George E. Gard, F. E. Jackson,
Hi Rapelje and Tom Burns had, while hot on the trail, taken up quar-
ters in a deserted cabin at Stone Corral. The robbers were seen
approaching and the posse stationed themselves outside. In the battle
that ensued both Sontag and Evans were shot, the former fatally.
Evans again escaped, but was soon after found at the home of E. H.
Perkins, and placed ^^nder arrest. Sontag died within about three
weeks after the Stone Corral fight.. Evans' trial was held in Fresno
in November and December. He was found guilty of murder in the
first degree and sentenced to life imprisonment. Within two weeks,
however, he escaped from the Fresno jail, being assisted by a man
named Ed Morrell. After getting out of jail, the pair held up a boy
with a horse and cart, took it, and successfully eluding the guards,
which were immediately stationed on the roads leading out of town,
succeeded in again getting into the mountain country. This escape
was hailed with great glee in Visalia because the Visalia officers had
been severely rated for inefficiency in the Fresno papers.
A period of several months ensued, most of which was consumed
by the officers in following false clues. Evans terrorized the flume
men in the hills, and the sheep herders, threatening them with death
if they revealed his whereabouts.
On February 13, 1894, Sheriff Scott of Fresno county, and posse,
came upon Evans' and Morrell's camp in Eshom valley. Three shots
were fired ineffectually, the bandits escaping hurriedly, leaving nuich
ammunition and camp equii)ment.
Evans wrote several letters to friends in '^^isalia, and on March
7th, visited John March, who resided near Orosi, fourteen miles from
^^isalia. As far as the officers of the law were concerned, however, all
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 153
trace of the bandits was lost after the exchange of shots with Sheriff
Scott's posse, until the following year. The mountain settlers all
denied seeing or hearing anything of the outlaws.
After these exploits, wliich constituted one of the most spectacu-
lar criminal careers in the history of the county, it seems strange that
Evans should have submitted tamely at the last, but he did.
On Saturday, May 18, 1894, the bandits came to A^isalia, and on
Monday the officers learned of their jiresence. and a posse, including
Sheriff Kay, United States Marshal Gard, deputy sheriffs Witty and
Robert Broder, night watchman Byrd and constable English, sur-
rounded the house. The news brought crowds to the vicinity who
watched behind houses and barns at as near range as they dared to
get.
A young man named Beeson offered to take a note to Evans for
twenty-five cents. He was given $1 and sent in, lint did not return.
At 10 a. m., an eight-year-old son of Evans came out of the house
with a note to Sheriff Kay, which read :
"Sheriff Kay — Come to the house without guns and you will not
be harmed. I want to talk with you. Chris Evans."
Kay, replying, recpiested Evans to come out and give himself nji, in
answer to which he received the following:
"Sheriff Kay — Send the crowd away and bring Will Hall with you
to the gate and then we will talk. I will not harm you. You are the
sheriff of the county, and I am willing to make terms with you, but
with no one else. I will ste]) out on the jiorch when you come to the
gate. Chris Evans."
The crowd had not shown any inclination towards violence, but
apparently the bandits were more afraid of it than of the officers.
Accordingly, the crowd was persuaded to move away and Kay and
Hall met Evans and Morrell on the ])orch and shook hands with tliem
and then ]ilaced both under arrest.
Young Beeson related that when he knocked at the door he was
covered with guns and told to come inside, where he was searched.
No weapons were found on him, but he was regarded as a spy and
told to sit down and keep his mouth shut.
By the next evening, when Sheriff Scott took Evans back to
Fresno, so many threats of hmching had been exjjressed that it was
decided not to take the risk of waiting until midnight for the train,
but to proceed by team. When news of the departure of the officers
with the prisoner became kuouii a crowd of determined men, con-
tained in twelve or fifteen livery rigs, started in ]mrsuit with the in-
tention of lynching Evans. .\t Goshen they learned that the officers
had taken another road an<l wei-e practically beyond pursuit, so the
chase was abaniloned.
Evans was sentenced to life imprisonment at Folsom and served
154 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES
seventeen vears and two months, being released on parole, May 1,
1911.
Morrell also received a life sentence but was pardoned after serv-
ina;' fifteen vears.
CHAPTER XVII.
CHURCHES, SCHOOLS. POPULATION
Tlie early settlers in Tulare county ever made the establish-
ment of schools and the organization of clnirches keep even pace
with the forming of settlements. If a full history of the churches
in Visalia could be written it would show a long line of suflferiug
heroes; little comedy but much tragedy. There is a pathos about
the lives of the pioneer preachers that is wanting in later times.
The pastor of the city church, who devotes his week days to study
in his library, with recreation in the garden, and social intercourse
with his parishioners, can little appreciate the exalted self denial
and often severe suffering that generally accompanied the circuit
riders. Surely a person, to meet the exigencies of a juoneer
preacher, with conditions as they were in Tulare eoiinty in the
'50s or even '(30s, nuist be ablaze with a Pauline passion for souls.
It is with a feeling akin to reverence that one calls up the
visions of pioneer days, and the keenest interest is aroused by the
pioneer and his weal. This is especially true when considered
along with the struggles and victories of the early churches. The
days of the circuit rider, picturesque in his missionary zeal, have
passed away, but they have left an afterglow that fills the heart
with thankfulness and devotion.
THE SOX'TH METHODIST
TJie first church in tlie county was the Methodist Episcopal
South. In 1852, when Visalia consisted of undignified shacks and
magnificent distances, before it was even selected as a county seat,
a congregation of this faith was organized here.
Eev. O. P. Fisher, the presiding elder of the Pacific Congress,
and the Eev. M. Christianson took charge of the congregation and
held services as opportunity presented itself. The first house of
worship, however, was not constructed until 1857. James Persian,
a leading member and himself one of the largest donors, undertook
the task and a small lirick church was erected on Church street,
near Acequia, about where tlie telephone exchange is now situated.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 155
At that time the Rev. E. B. Loekley was pastor in eharoe and the
membership was fifteen souls.
The present church building, ou the corner of Court and
School streets, was erected in 1872, and enlarged and improvetl
in 1905- '06, and a new parsonage built in 1911.
There have been twenty-four pastors in charge of the flock
here since the organization. The present membership is about one
hundi-ed and fifty. Rev. W. J. Fenton took charge in 1911, and
under his care all branches of tlie work are i)r()gressing.
THE BAPTIST CHUECH
The Baptist church has had a varied experience in Visalia.
There was a small congregation in the '50s that held services in
the oak-grove west of the schoolhouse, and later, jointly with the
South Methodists, occupied the first chiirch building erected in
Visalia.
The Rev. James A. Welti), the "Bible Poet" as he called liim-
self, occupied the ])ulpit at the times when services were held.
This eccentric individual was engaged in, and it is said, finished,
the translation into verse of the entire Scriptures.
Not until the early '70s was a building erected. This, located
on Main street between Court and Locust, was later destroyed by
fire and the congregation disbanded.
In 1907 the Rev. E. M. Bliss came to Visalia as a missionary
and in March of that year succeeded in organizing a congregation
with twenty-one charter members. The congregation rented Good
Templars Hall and there held services until the completion of the
present commodious and attractive building. This is an impos-
ing structure of concrete blocks, on the corner of Garden street
and Mineral King avenue. The north transept has two stories.
The cornerstone of this building was laid April 18, 1910, and the
dedicatory services held February 1, 1911. Rev. J. M. Couley
preached the sermon at the laying of the cornerstone and at the
dedication. The Rev. Robert J. Burdette of the Temple Baptist
church at Los Angeles assisted at the dedication. The membershii>
has increased rapidly and now numbers about ninety.
SrXDAY SCHOOLS
About the time of the founding of the first church in Visalia
came the organization of a Sunday school. All the church people
united in maintaining a Union Sunday school. In its issue of
December 11, 1863, the Delta said this school was in a flourishing
condition with about one hundred children in attendance. There
were at the time only eighty children in the day schools. A little
later a school was maintained by each denomination separately.
156 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES
THE PFESBYTEKTAN CHURCH
On December !), 186G, a band of fourteen men and M'omen
organized a Presbyterian church in Visalia. This was of the Ohl
School order. Rev. William Edwards was in charge, and the con-
gregation met in the small building on the corner of Church and
Willow streets. Later this building was destroyed by fire and, the
membershi]j being small, the congregation disbantled.
The Cumberland Presbyterian people had become so strong
that, under the pastorate of the Rev. Mr. Smith, they organized
a church in 1878, with a following of about sixty. They purchased
the property of the Baptists, consisting of the lot on the corner
of Main and Locust streets and the building thereon. An oppor-
tunity presented and the property was sold and two lots on the
corner of Oak and TiOcust streets purchased. The building was
moved and is still used. This property was jjurchased by the Cum-
berland Presbyterian Church, incorporated. But the decision of
the churches at Decatur, 111., in May, 1906, announcing the union
of the two branches of the Presbyterians, has caused trouble in
the congregation. Some hold that the title should be in the Pres-
byterian Church and others that it still remains in the Cumberland.
The former have jjossession, and a few of the Cumberland brethren
are meeting in a rented hall. The others have arranged to erect
a fine new building of concrete blocks, and the congregation, under
the leadership of Rev. C. H. Reyburn, is growing.
THE LUTHERANS
The Lutheran Church organized a congregation in Visalia in
1907, under the care of William Grunow, pastor. A commodious
church building was erected on South Court street. About a year
later a i)arochial school was opened with about forty pupils.
THE EPISCOPAL CHURCH
The Episcopal church is one of recent date in Visalia. Previous
to 1880 occasional services were held as circumstances permitted.
Revs. W. H. Hill, Powell, and D. O. Kelley, were the principal mis-
sionaries that conducted these infrequent services. In May, 1880,
the Mission St. John was organized for the entire county, and
comprised the towns of Visalia, Tulare City, Hanford and Lemoore.
The Mission was under the charge of Rev. D. O. Kelley, with
headquarters in Hanford. On February 9, 1887, the Mission of St.
l*aul was organized in Visalia. During the same year, under the
care of Rev. C. S. Lindsley, a building was erected on a lot donated
by Mr. Jacobs, on North' Church street. In 1898 the Rev. C. M.
Westlake, the pastor in charge, secured the advantageous corner of
Kncina avciiuc and Center sti'eets. The old building was moved
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 157
to the new location. In 1904, under the care of Rev. II. C. Carroll,
the rectory was built and in 1!)0!) and 1<)]0 the church was enlarged
and improved and the parish house built. The St. Paul's Mission,
Visalia, and the St. John's Mission, Tulare, have been associated as
one charge. To these was recently added St. John's Mission, Porter-
ville. The church has a membership of al)out ninety. Nine priests
have served the local church.
THE CATHOLIC CHITRCH
The Catholic church existed for several years in Visalia before
a building was erected. Rev. Father D. F. Dade was the priest who
for many years cared for the flock. As early as 1860 he is reported
to have celebrated mass in the old courthouse. In the late summer of
1861 he obtained the use of an old barn and opened a parochial school.
In memory of the birthplace of the Savior, he named his school the
Academy of the NatiA'ity. On October 18, 1868, at the corner of
Church and Race streets, he laid the cornerstone of the brick church
now standing there, and dedicated it. Church of the Nativity. March
28, 1909, the Rt. Rev. Thomas J. Conaty, of the diocese of Uos
Angeles, laid the foundation of the present imposing church building
on the lot south of the old building. The erection of this fine
structure of concrete blocks was due largely to the devotion of the
Rev. Father Foin. The church in Visalia has l)een ministered to by
eleven i)riests.
METHODIST EPISCOPAL
The Methodist Episcopal church was among the first Protestant
bodies to establish themselves on the Pacific slope. August 15,
1851, eleven preachers met in San Francisco and held the first
Methodist Conference on this coast. Their field of labor was from
Canada to Mexico. But it was not until 1858 that an organization
was made in Visalia. The class was organized by Jolm McKelvey,
in charge of this circuit. W. N. Steuben and wife and Mrs.
Lucinda Kenney were tlie first members. The congregation had no
settled place of worshiji until 1867, when, under the pastorate of T.
P. Williams, there was a building erected on the corner of Court
and "Willow streets. A Sunday school was organized in 1869 by
D. K. Zumwalt. In 1902 C. A. Bunker was pastor and work was
commenced on a new church building. The building was not finished
until the pastorate of Mr. Livingston, Mr. Bunker's successor. In
Novemlier, 1908, the church, with A. L. Baker as pastor, celebrated
its fiftieth anniversary, called the (ioldeu Jubilee, in a week of special
and api)ropriate services, at which many of the previous i)astors were
present and assisted.
158 TULABE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHRISTIAN CHURCH
The Disciples of Christ were represented at au early date in
Visalia. Some previous efforts had been made by them to form an
organization, but nothing was accomplished until in August, 1857,
when fourteen men of this faith under the leadership of William
Higgens, met and organized the First Christian Church in Visalia.
They met under a shelter of willow boughs in the lot between Court
and Locust and Center and Oak streets, west of the present residence
of Mrs. S. C. Brown. For lack of chairs, trunks of trees were used
for seats. Of the fourteen charter members, C. P. Majors of near
Visalia, is the only one on this side of the Great Divide.
At the organization, William Higgins was chosen minister and
elder, and John K. Morris, elder, and W. E. Owen and C. P. Majors
deacons. The congregation made the shelter of willows the place
of meeting till late in the fall of that year, and then used the school-
house. For lack of a church bell. Elder Higgins improvised a cow's
horn and by the sonorous blasts from this unique instrument, called
the humble worshipers together.
The congregation later met in various places, among which were
the courthouse. Centennial hall. Good Templars' hall, the South
Methodist church, the Presbyterian church, and the City Hall. An
unfortunate controversy arose among the members over the use
of the organ in the services, and for some time the ill feeling
engendered by this controversy greatly retarded the growth of the
congregation. After several years of rather acrimonious feelings.
by the efforts of E. B. Ware, then state evangelist, the members
"forgot it," got together, liought the lot on the northwest corner
of Court and School streets and in 1890, dedicated the present line
Iniilding.
Among the early ministers were: T. N. Kincaid. ^^lex. Johnson.
A. W. DeWitt, H. Tandy, J. E. Denton. Since the building was
erected some of the ablest ministers in the state have been stationed
here. Among these ministers were W. H. Martin, now of Southern
California, Peter Colvin, of Santa Rosa, T. A. Boyer of Oakland,
and J. A. Brown, in the evangelistic field. Frederic Grimes took charge
of the church in 1911, and has been a strong man in the Bilile school
and all departments of church work. The Bible school, numlieving
nearly three hundred, is an enthusiastic one.
THE TRATXTXG OF THE YOUXG
In tracing the history of Tulare county, it is found that the
l^eople have ever been promjit in the nuitter of i)roviding educational
facilities for the children. Tlie scliool and the cliui-ch have attended
the early jiioneers.
We of todav iivovidc our cliildron with the best modern educa-
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 159
tional facilities by the simple expedient of readily voting "yes"
on all propositions for school bonds. There was a time in Tulare
county when, other problems of life far less involved than now, the
solution of this question was one of great difficulty. Within the
hearts of the early pioneers, however, the determination was strong
to give to their offspring a greater measure of learning than they
themselves had enjoyed, and it came about that in 1853 a school
was established in Visalia. Remember that this was at the very time
in which each settler, surging with ambition, was busy inaugurating
his individual enterprise. One was building a sawmill, another a
store, another a gristmill, others were sending afar to ])rocur(' tlio
seed for farming; some were guarding their stock; the first furrows
were being turned.
Remember, too, that in a county extending from Mariposa on tlie
north to Los Angeles on the south and from Nevada on the ens', to
the summit of the coast range in the west, there were but eighteen
children, between the ages of five and seventeen. You can readily
imagine liow much these children were needed to help at home.
But they started a school. There was no building yet, just a school,
and thirteen pupils attended.
In 1854 the first school district, embracing the entire county, wa.-^
organized, and the first schoolhouse, made of rough boards set on
end, was erected near the site of the present Tipton Lindsey grannnar
school in Visalia.
The population of Tulare county increased by leaps in the next
succeeding years, but it was largely transient, composed of the horde
of miners flocking to the new gold fields of the Kern. The school
census of 1860 exhilnted a healthy, but of course, not a corresponding
growth. By that year there had come to be five schools in the
county, which cared for four hundred and sixty- five children, dis-
tributed as follows: Visalia, two hundred and eighty; Elbow, one
hundred and twenty-four; Woodville, one hundred and fifty-two:
Persian, eighty-five.
The public school system was developing normally, keoi)iug
pace with the needs of the people, but it was deemed insuflicient.
The following notice about a proposed seminary for Visalia api)eared
in the Delia of December 31, 1859, and shows that jx-ople tluMi were
thinking of higher education:
"Seminary. A subscription is in circulation for tlic jmrpose
of building a seminary near town on a lot donated for the purpose
by J. R. Keener. The subscription list we saw was liberally signed.
Attached to about half a dozen names was the sum of $3,700. The
proposition is to make it a joint stock company. Rev. B. W. Taylor,
and a lady are to take ciiarge of the institution."
In 1859 Rev. B. W. Tavlor, of Los Angeles, arrive.l an<l l)r()aclied
l()0 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
a project for opening a private school, in which the higher branches
of learning should be taught. His plan met with immediate favor
and a joint stock coni])nny was formed to finance it. Henry Keener
donated a lot, and siilisci iptions in an amount sufficient to erect and
equi}) a large two-story Ituildiug were soon secured. The building
was erected in the southwestern part of town at the corner of Watson
avenue and the Tulare road and the institution named The Yisalia
Select Seminary. For a time the Reverend Taylor and his wife
were the only instructors, but later M. S. Merrill, of Los Angeles,
was added to take charge of the newly created primary department.
In 1861 Rev. Father Dade opened a private school called The
Academy of the Nativity. The title was suggested by the fact that
the building which it occupied, located about where Visalia's Catholic
church now stands, was originally designed as a stable. Father
Dade's scholarly attainments were such as to well qualify him for
his position. Modern languages and Latin were among the branches
taught, and the elements of a classical education, so highly esteemed
in those days, was imparted. This school, though taught l\v a priest,
was strictly non-sectarian, and its patrons, sending their children
there solely on account of the educational facilities afforded, became
numerous. The boys and girls were instructed separately, the
reverend father tutoring the former and Miss Hattie Demiug the
latter.
Tlie establishment of these two schools at so early a day amidst
a population so sparse, clearly indicates the progressive spirit of
the early pioneers and exhibits anew the cropping forth of the
cherished longing to jilace their children on a higher intellectual
plane than it had been the lot of the fathers and mothers to ascend.
And Visalia became the educational center of the valley. From
as far south as Tejon and as far north as the Merced river, students
came, for everywhere the idea was strong to secure for their children
the best.
The seminary and the academy flourished for a num})er of years
— in fact, until their usefulness was over, which came to pass from
the betteruient of the public schools and the establishment near the
l)ig centers of population of colleges, universities and normal schools
of liigh order.
Tulare's schools are now among the best in tiie state. T];ere
were at the close of 1911 one hundred and fourteen primary and
grammar schools in the county, employing two hundred and twenty-
six teachers. There are also seven high schools in tlie county and
three joint high schools, employing sixty-one teachers. There were
in 1910-1911, 6,845 pupils in the grammar and primary grades and
89:2 in high schools. There were 528 graduates from tlie <jrnmmMr
grades and ninety-six fi'om the high schools.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES Ifil
POPULATIOK
For a nuiiiber of years the population of Tnlai-e county did not
increase very rapidly. When the county was (jriiaiii/.cil, in IHoi'. the
total white population was estimated at one hnudnMl. ;',y the cen-;us
of 1860 it was given as three thousand; in 1S70, 4,:):!;:; isSO, 11,281;
1890, 24,574; Kings county was cut off in 1893, and still, the census
for 1910 gave old Tulare 35,543. The present population has been
closely estimated at 47,500. The census figures for 1910 of some
of the ditferent cities and villages are given below. To arrive at
their present population add from thirty to forty per cent: Angiola
44, Auckland 22, Badger 13, Dinuba 970, Exeter 660. Frazier 29,
Hot Springs 22, Kaweah 28, Lindsay 1814, Orosi 590, Pixlev 64, Por-
terville 2696, Tulare 2758, Visalia 4550. White Eiver 94. Woodville,
76, Farmersville 550.
One thing was very noteworthy by the last census, and that
was the rapid increase of population of rural districts as coni|)ared
with the incorporated towns. All showed a marked rate of increase,
but the country's, rate was much larger. It would seem that the
cry "back to the farm" is being heard; The whole county showed
a rate of ninety-three per cent, increase in ten years.
PROPERTY V.VLUES
The best index to the prosperity of a peoi)le is the assessment
roll. As that ebbs or flows, so will the prosperity of the citizens.
The tirst assessment roll of Tulare county, in 1853, consisted
of a single sheet of foolscap paper and there was not a single piece
of real estate assessed. The property in the county consisted entirely
of horses and cattle. That year, when the county treasurer went to
Benicia to settle with the state, the state comptroller and the state
treasurer had no knowledge that there was such a county as Tulare
in exisence. However, the state officials accepted the small sum
(about $75) that Tulare county tendered toward the sup]iort of the
state government.
The assessment roll of 1855 is a curious document. It coutaius
three hundred and forty-two names, this including those to whom a
poll tax only was assessed. It totals $437,225. Tljree parcels only
of real estate were included. These were Jones & Robedee, 320
acres — $()40; San Ameli;i ranch, eleven leagues, $50,000; Ignacio Del
Vallo. acreage not given, $100,000.
S. C. Brown was rated at $550; John Cutler at $960. and Richard
Chatten at $410. In the roll of 1858, Andrew G. Han-ell's name
appears; he possessed forty head of Spanish cattle and one horse, of
a valuation of $1,040.
The wealthiest residents of 1855, according to the assessment,
outside of Mi'. Del Vallo and the San Amelia rnncli owners were:
162 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
Elisha Packwood, $23,735; Pemberton Bros., $14,075; S. A. Bishop,
$21,875 ; Reuben Matthews & Co., $10,070 ; Patterson & Hazelton were
given as worth $1,210.
The assessment roll of 1860 showed the following: Acres of
improved land, 20,313; number of horses and mules, 4,245; number
of cattle, 42,373; number of sheep, 16,521; number of swine, 32,546;
bushels of wheat, 40,268; bushels of corn, 6,355; bushels of Irish
potatoes, 4,067; bushels of sweet potatoes, 1,656; pounds of wool,
16,900; pounds butter, 30,380; pounds cheese, 14,970; gallons of wine,
1000; tons hay, 980; schools, five. Real estate valued at $372,835;
machinerv, $32,763; livestock, $1,212,381. Total debt of the coimtv,
$33,262.46.
In 1880 the values had increased somewhat and the total assess-
ment roll showed property values to be $6,411,378. In the next ten
years property had taken a double somersault. The assessment roll
showed for 1890, $21,740,817. In 1893, Kings county, with the rich
towns of Hanford and Lemoore, was cut off from Tulare, yet the
assessment roll for 1910 showed the people of Tulare still possessed
$37,475,140 worth of property listed by the assessor. Surely the
people are to be felicitated. Each year sees an advance in the rate
of increase.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 163
CHAPTER XVIII
TULARE'S OFFICERS
For the miniber of years since orgauization, Tulare has liad
a long list of official servants. Yet there are few counties in any
state that can jioint to a list with fewer unworthies and a larger
numlier of honorable and devoted men.
SUPERVISORS
Under ditferent statutes the board has consisted of five and
again of three members, and sometimes the fully authorized number
was not elected. The following have, served, being either elected or
appointed in the year set before their names.
1853 — Loomis St. John, A. J. Lawrence, John Poole, Henry
Burroughs, Warren S. Matthews.
1854— J. T. Pemberton, C. G. Sayles, Anson Hadley, W. S.
Matthews, A. H. Murray.
1855— Anson Hadley, J. C. Reid, D. L. De Spain.
1856 — James Persian, William Packard.
1857— P. Goodhue, R. W. Coughran, J. C. Reid.
1858— G. E. Long, A. A. Wingfield.
1859— E. Van Valkenberg, J. C. McPherson.
I860— William Campbell, R. K. Nichols, H. W. Niles.
1861— Pleasant Byrd.
1863— A. M. Donelson, R. K. Nichols, Tipton Lindsey.
1865— W. R. Jordan.
1869— C. R. Wingfield, D. Stong, James Barton.
1871— W. E. Owen, C. R. Wingfield, James Barton.
1873 — E. N. Baker, James Barton, Samuel Huntling, Edwin
Giddings.
1877 — J. H. Grimsley (succeeding Baker).
1879 — J. H. Shore (succeeding Barton).
1882— S. M. Gilliam, W. H. Hammond, J| W. C. Pogue. C. Tal-
bot, S. E. Biddle.
1884— T. E. Henderson, M. Premo, J. W. C. Pogue, D. V. Robin-
son, G. E. Shore.
1886 — James Barton, J. W. Newport.
1888— J. H. Woodv.
1890— James Barton, S. L. N. Ellis, J. H. Fox.
1892— T. E. Henderson, T. B. Twaddle, S. M. Gilliam.
1896— Robert Baker, T. B. Twaddle, J. W. Thomas.
1898— D. V. Robinson, R. N. Clack.
1900— R. W. McFarland, T. B. Twaddle, W. II. Moffett.
1902— W. E. Hawkins, J. M. Martin.
164 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
1904— R. AV. McFarland, T. B. Twatldle. George Birkenliauer.
1906— E. Tout, J. M. Martin.
1908— A. C. Williams.
1910— Robert Horbacb.
1912— Fay Siiigletou.
THE JUDICIARY
Under tbe old constitution the judicial system ])rovi(led for dis-
trict courts, tbe districts composed of a num])er of counties, and
county courts.
District Judges: In tbe organization of Tulare county it was
attached to tbe fifth judicial district, which included all tbe San
Joaquin and Tulare valleys and tbe Sierra Nevada south of Cala-
veras county. Charles M. Cramer was district judge, holding court at
Mariposa.
In 1858 the thirteenth judicial district was created, which included
Tulare, Fresno, Mariposa, Merced and Stanislaus counties. For this
district tbe following were elected: Etbelbert Burke in 1859; A. M.
Bondurant in 1863; Alexander During, appointed in 1865; A. C.
Bradford in 1867, and re-elected; A. C. Campbell in 1875; W. W.
Cross in 1877.
County Judges: 1852, Walter H. Harvey; 1853, John Cutler.
1858, Robert C. Redd; 1859, William Boring. E. E. Calhoun was
appointed May 9, 1860. In 1860 C. G. Sayle was elected ; 1863, Nathan
Baker; 1867, S. J. Garrison, who resigned, and S. A. Sbeppard was
appointed; 1873, John Clar-k, who served until tbe adoption of tbe
new constitution when tbe office was merged in tbe superior court.
Superior Judges: W. W. Cross, 1879, and re-elected. Tbe
legislature of 1891 authorized a second superior judge, and Wheaton
A. Grav was apjjointed. This act was repealed by the next legislature.
W. A. Gray, 1892; W. B. Wallace, 1898, 1904, 1910.. The legislature
of 1910- '11 created a second department and J. A. Allen was appointed
by the governor in 1911.
THE LAWMAKERS
State Senators: At first Tulare county joined with Fresno in
electing senators, but later the senatorial district was confined to
Tulare, Kings and Kern counties. Tbe following have served tbe
county, the date following tbe name being tbe date of election : James
I-I. Wade, 1852; J. A. McNeil, 1854; Samnel A. Merritt, 1856; Thomas
Baker, 1861; J. W. Freeman, 1863; Thomas Fowler, 1869; Tipton
Lindsev, 1873; Chester Rowell, 1879; Patrick Reddy, 1882; John Roth,
1886; George S. Berrv, 1890; AV. A. Sims, 1894; H. L. Pace, 1898;
E. 0. Miller, 1906; E. O. Larkins, 1910.
Assemblymen: In tbe assemblj^ district Tulare and Inyo counties
have for a long time ])een united. Tbe following is a list of those
elected to tbe assembly, the date being that of the election : John T.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 165
Tivy, 1853; Thomas Baker, 1854; Robert R. Swan, 1855; (). K. Sinitli,
1856; A. H. Mitchell, 1857; James M. Roane, 1858; Thomas M. Heston,
1859; 0. K. Smith, 1860; Jas. C. Pemberton, 1861; J. W. Freeman,
1862; Joseph C. Brown, 1863; E. W. Doss, 1869; John Burkhalter,
1871; W. Canfield, 1873; J. A. Patterson, 1875; W. S. Adams, 1877;
A. B. Dn Brntz, 1879; Rufus E. Arriok, 1880; Allen J. Atwell, 1882;
E. L. De Witt, 1884; A. B. Butler, 1886; George S. Berry, 1888; W. S.
Cunningham, 1890; W. H. Alford, 1892; D. V. Robinson, 1894; W. P.
Boone, 1896-98; H. Levinson, 1900; A. M. Lumlev, ]902-()4; P. W.
Forbes, 1906 ; G. W. Wylie, 1908-1910.
SHERIFF
William Dill, 1852; O. K. Smith, 1853; W. G. Poindexter, 1855;
J. C. Reid, 1859; J. C. Pemberton, 1860; W. C. Owen, 1861; John
Meadows, elected but did jiot serve; John Gill, 1864; Tilden Reid,
1865 ; W. F. Thomas, 1867 ; A. H. Glasscock, 1869 ; Charles R. Wing-
field, 1873; J. H. Campbell, 1877; M. G. Wells, 1879; W. F. Martin,
1882; Alfred Baalam, 1884; George A. Parker, 1886; D. G. Overall,
1888; E. W. Kay, 1890; A. P. Merritt, 1894; B. B. Parker. 1898;
W. W. Collins, 1902-06-10.
DISTEICT ATTOKNEY
J. B. Hatch, 1852; D. W. C. French, 1853; S. C. Brown, 1856;
Samuel W. Beckraan, 1865 ; S. A. Sheppard, 1863 ; S. C. Brown, 1865 ;
A. J. Atwell, 1867; R. C. Redd, 1869; A. J. Atwell, 1871; George
S. Palmer, 1873; W. W. Cross, 1874; E. J. Edwards, 1877; Oregon
Sanders, 1882; W. B. AVallaee, 1884; C. G. Lamberson, 1886; W. R.
Jacobs, 1888; M. E. Power, 1890-92; F. B. Howard, 1894; J. A. Allen,
1898; Dan. McFadjean, 1902-06; Frank Lamberson, 1910.
ASSESSOR
Dr. Everett, 1852; J. B. Hatch, 1853; C. G. Sayle, 1855; T. C.
Hays, 1859; R. B. Savles, 1861; E. H. Dumble, 1863; A. H. Glas.s-
cock, 1865; T. H. Hawkins, 1867; F. G. Jefferds, 1871; Seth Smith,
1882; D. F. Coffee, 1890; J. F. Gibson, 1894; Arthur Crowley, 1902;
T. H. Blair, 1910.
SURVEYOR
J. T. Tivy, 1852; Early Lyons, 1853; George Dyer, 1854; J. E.
Scott, 1857.
The election of surveyor was neglected at times, and the office
temporarily filled by appointment by the supervisors, 0. K. Smith
being appointed on several occasions.
J. F. Lewis, 1865; J. M. Johnson, 1867; G. W. Smith, 1871; T. J.
Vivian, 1875; J. M. Johnson, 1876; Seth Smith, 1877; Thomas Creigli-
ton, 1882; John S. Urton, 1886; A. T. Fowler, 1888; A. G. Patton,
1892; D. L. Wishon, 1894; Seth Smith, 1898; Byron Lovelace, 1910.
TAX COLLECTOR
This office, until 1892, was held ex-officio Ity the sheriff with
166 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
the exception of the term from 1877, when H. A. Keener was elected.
Since then the following: J. S. Johnson, 1892; G. V. Eeed, 1898; J
W. Fewell, 1902.
TKEASUKER
J. C. Fraukenberger, 1852; Charles R. Wingtield, 1853; W. G.
Eussell, 1854 ; Erwin Johnson, 1860 ; John C. Eeid, 1861 ; T. T. Hath-
away, 1863; Paschal Bequette, 1865; J. E. Scott, 1867; Wiley Watson,
1869; Pleasant Byrd, 1871; John W. Crowlev, 1873; Philip Wagv,
1877 ; H. A. Keener, 1879 ; W. W. Coughran, 1882 ; C. E. Wing-fieW,
1886; D. S. Lipscomb, 1888; J. W. Crowley, 1894; J. E. Denny, 1898;
H. Newman, 1902.
RECORDER
A. B. Gordon, 1852; County Clerk .ex-officio, 1853; Louis L. Be-
quette, 1861; T. J. Shackleford, 1863; W. F. Thomas, 1871; J. E.
Denny. 1875; C. S. O'Bannon, 1877; J. E. Denny, 1882; W. F. Thomas,
1884; J. M. Johnson, 1888; C. E. Evans, 1890; J. E. Denny, 1892; Ira
Chrisman, 1894; J. O. Thomas. 1898; Ira Chrisman. 1902.
PtTBLIC ADMIXISTKATOR
This office has usually been combined with that of coroner. In
1854 L. Meadows held the office independently, as did W. G. Daven-
port in 1861 and H. A. Bostwick in 1862.
AUDITOR
The clerk and recorder held this office ex-officio until 1877, when
the following served as noted: W. L. Kirkland, 1877; J. F. Jordan,
1879; Ben Parker, 1882; D. G. Overall, 1884; C. T. Buckman, 1886; W.
W. Rea, 1892; E. M. Jefferds, 1894; T. H. Blair, 1898; Austin
Foucht, 1910.
SUPERINTENDENT OF SCHOOLS
During several years the county clerk has been ex-officio super-
intendent of schools. In 1855 W. G. Eussell was elected, after which
the clerk tilled the office until 1861, when the following served: B.
W. Tavlor. 1861; J. W. Williams, 1863; T. 0. Ellis. 1865; M. S. Merril,
1871 ; S. G. Creighton, 1873 ; E. P. Merril, 1875 ; W. J. Ellis, 1879 ; C.
H. Murphy, 1882; S. A. Crookshank, 1890; J. S. McPhaill, 1894; S. A.
Crookshank, 1898; C. J. Walker, 1902; J. E.Buckmau, 1910.
CORONER
W. H. McMilleu. 1852; I. N. Bell, 1853; S. T. Corlev, 1856; H. C.
Townsend, 1859; M. Baker, I860; J. D. P. Thompson, 1860; AV. A.
Eussell, 1863; J. E. Hamilton, 1865; Joseph Lively, 1867; D. L.
Pickett, 1871 ; E. P. Martin, 1873 ; W. A. Eussell, 1875 ; L. D. Murphv,
1877; L. M. Lovelace, 1879; T. W. Pendergrass, 1888; 0. S. Higgius,
1890; T. A. Sheppard, 1892; J. C. McCabe, 1894; T. C. Carrutiiers.
1898; E. E. Du Brutz, 1902, died in office; T. M. Dungan, 1904; filled
vacancy; L. Locey, 1910.
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES 167
CHAPTER XIX
TULARE COUNTY TODAY
Jnst a trifle over fifty years ago tlie schoolboy who knew hi.s
lesson said, "Tulare county is bounded on the north by Mariposa
county, on the east by tlic state of Nevada, on tlie south by Santa
Barbara county and on the west by the summit of the coast range of
mountains." The schoolboy's father, well informed for his day,
would have replied in answer to a query as to the county's resources
and productions: "It's a derned good cattle country and mel)be, if
what I hear about the feed in them mountains is so, it might be a
blame good sheep country; and they've found gold up there and the's
lots of good farming country along the creek bottoms down here."
True and simple answers, these — how much more difficult today
to render such! For now, although a vastly smaller area is embraced
within the county, the continued discovery of marvels of nature, the
finding of unexpected stores of wealth, the effects of man's assaults
upon the fastnesses of the Sierra and of his energy and toil apjilied
to the fertile diversified plain have made of it a task difficnit and
complicated in the extreme.
When the boy and his father, fifty years ago, described the county
and told us to what it was adapted they did not mention that down
from those mountains came streams of such volume that the waters,
spread over hundreds of thousands of acres of plain, would increase
fertility enormously and render possible a diversified culture of fruits
and grains and forage. This they could know but vaguely. They
did not tell us that beneath the parched plains and worthless hog-
wallow land below the foothill slopes ran subterranean streams of
ceaseless exliaustless flow, which tapped and tlieir waters spread on
the surface would succor and liring to glorious maturity groves of
orange and lemon and lime. This they did not know at all.
Now could they foresee that season and soil and water distribu-
tion would combine to cause certain portions of the county to become
famous for the production of the earliest fruits and grapes of the
season, that here the French prune and the cling peach, reaching
early maturity and producing extraordinary crops, would become
wealth producing factors. Nor could they imagine the thousands
upon thousands of acres that were to become iierennially green with
alfalfa, today supporting great herds of sleek dairy cattle and causing
the county to rank almost first in butter production.
And oh, how little of the splendors and the beauties and the
awe-compelling wonders that were hidden in that lofty eastern iiioiin-
tain range! They said no word of Mt. Whitney, towering above all
168 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
other peaks witliiu the uatiou's boundaries; they did not tell of the
immense groves, or rather forests, of giant sequoias, larger, older,
than any other trees on earth.
No tale was there of gem-like clusters of glacial lakes, of vast
caverns from whose ceilings depended glistening stalactites; naught
was said of gorges and chasms, of tumbling cascades or of bright
flower-strew meadows.
Overlooked, too, as a factor of future wealth were the miles
upon miles of unbroken forest of yellow pine, sugar pine and fir.
And little thought was there of a day when the dashing, leaping,
whirling waters of the Kaweah and the Tule would be led quietly
through cemented conduits to points of vantagne, whence they could
be released in almost uncontrollable force to move the wheels of
industry throughout the county. Yet these things have come to pass.
And there was a day, that also just a little more than fifty years
ago, when Indian George, or Captain George, "big Injun heap," ran
as expressman, carrying letters and small packages from Visalia
to Owens river, the trip occupying four days. It is a far cry from
then to the daily visit of the mail carrier, a distant retrospect from
then to the luxuriously appointed through trains that now whisk
you to Los Angeles or San Francisco during a night.
Some fifty years ago a freight team from Stockton came bringing
twenty thousand pounds of goods. This enormous load aroused great
interest. Today without comment train load lots of oranges leave
the county daily throughout the season. And so we find that in every
branch of endeavor giant strides have been made, and a partial record
of the steps is foimd within these pages.
A few of the events that have transpired witliiu the county's
boundaries within the past six decades are recorded here. It is well
to take a rapid trip over the territory, view it as it exists today, and
form a mental picture of its present condition.
Tulare county, situated about midway between San Francisco
and Los Angeles, at the head of the San Joaquin valley, is one of
the largest in the state, having an area of 4935 square miles, or
3,158,400 acres. It has for neighbors Fresno on the north. Kings on
the west, Inyo on the east, and Kern on the south.
Its topography, as may be seen by the outline map, is about
one-half mountainous, the eastern boimdary being the summit of the
Sierras. Two lai'ge sti'eams, the Kaweah and the Tule, each gathering-
its waters from an extensive watershed, debouch into the valley
portion of the county and permit of a vast irrigating ditch system.
As the sources of these streams lie at great elevations, the flow is
high during the first of summer on account of the melting of the
snow. The detritus from these streams has formed throughout the
valley section a deep bed of alluvial soil varying somewhat in the
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 169
admixture of saud but always friable and productive. A large ]iortion
of this delta land is subirrigated to the extent that for the growtli of
alfalfa, grape vines or fruit trees no surface irrigation is necessary.
Back nearer the hills from this lowland belt the land is found
less sandy; there is an admixture of clay, decomposed granite, in
some places gravel. These soils range from a light red and very
friable to a black dry bog, through red, black and yellowish clay
formations. Lying in a strip near but not adjacent to the hills, a
peculiar formation known as "hog wallow" land exists. Hummocks,
little hills of two or three feet in height, here cover the land. This
latter soil, formerly held to l)e worthless, has been found highly
fertile and is now being leveled and cultivated so that in a short time
the sight of a "hog-wallow" field will be a curiosity.
Naturally, each ty])e of soil has proven itself particuhirly adapted
to certain cultures and the great variation in soils and elevations has
produced a very great diversity of production.
Before speaking further of these we will take a survey of towns,
cities and railroads that have been built in consequence of them.
Again referring to the map we find two almost parallel lines of
railroad extending from north to south across the countj'. These
are the main line of the Southern Pacific and the branch or loop line
of the same company which extends from Fresno to Famosa. These
two lines are connected by a cross line between Exeter and Goshen,
which passes through Visalia and over which a number of the through
trains run. The Santa Fe line enters the county near Dinuba and
after paralleling the Southern Pacific a short distance cuts south
across the county to Corcoran and thence southeasterly across the
southwest corner of the county.
Between Visalia and Woodlake, passing through Lemon Cove,
an electric line is in operation and between Porterville and Spring-
ville is a short Southern Pacific branch. The Big Four, an electric
road to connect the towns of Visalia, Tulare, Woodville and Porter-
ville, is in course of construction.
The present population is estimated to be about 47,500, tliis
figure being based on the census of 1910, showing 35,440, taken in
connection with the increase of election registrations since that time.
A fact worthy of note in this connection is that in the decade 1900-
1910, the increase in population of Tulare county was 93.4 per cent.
Visalia, the county seat, with a population of about 6000, is
situated at the intersection of the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe lines.
Tulare, southward about ten miles on the main line of the South-
ern Pacific, and Porterville thirty miles southeast on the branch line
of the Southern Pacific, each having a population of about 3500.
Dinuba, Exeter and Tjindsay, witli i)opula1ions respectively of
370 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
1500, 1200 and 2500, are also situated on the east side brancli line.
These are the six incorporated cities of the county.
Dinuba, the most northerly, is the center of the raisin belt,
which extends easterly through Sultana and Orosi and southerly
to Cutler and Yettem. Tliis district also has demonstrated its peculiar
adaptability to the growing of early and late grapes for the eastern
markets, and for the production of a general variety of deciduous
fruits. Oranges also are produced extensively, particularly near
Orosi, and south and west of Dinuba one enters a section devoted to
dairying. But as a whole, this entire district is a checkerboard of
orchards and \'ineyards. These, all in small tracts, well-kept and
generally well-provided with comfortable country homes, present a
picture both beautiful and impressive of assured prosperity. This
district is well and cheaply irrigated by the waters of Kings river,
distributed through the canals of the Alta Irrigation District, which
covers 130,000 acres.
Proceeding southward one enters a belt of undeveloped land,
contiguous to Monson on the Southern Paciiic branch line. A little
dairying is practiced here, but in general this section has been neg-
lected. Some leveling of "hog-wallow" land and deep cultivation
and drainage would doubtless transform it.
Passing on southward one comes into the rich diversified farming,
fruit and dairying section tributary to Visalia. This, too, is the prune
belt of the county. Ditches taken from the Kaweah and the St. Johns
rivers cover the entire district, whicli may be said in a general way
to extend from Goshen on the west to a point some twelve or fifteen
miles up the Kaweah river on the east and to include the territory
within a radius of five to ten miles from the city. No oranges are
grown in this district, no table grapes and very few raisins. All
general farm products, such as haj', grain, corn, pumpkins, Egyptian
corn and sugar beets, as well as peaches, pears and prunes, thrive
exceedingly and are grown in large quantities. This jiart of the
former wooded belt of the county still retains numbers of fine speci-
mens of natural oak trees and many groves, either in their original
condition or merely thinned by the woodman's axe. In every direction
the vista is bounded at a short distance by what appears to be an
unbroken line of timber. On approach this merges into groups of
oaks or single trees, perhaps far apart, or consists of the growth of
Cottonwood and willows growing on the margin of stream or canal.
Soft greens of many shades relieve the landscape no matter what be
the season. Not only alfalfa, but natural grasses continuously present
the colors of springtime. And in midsummer gayer hues, for every-
where, by roadside, by fence line or ditch bank or in unplowed fields
sunflowers flaunt their yellow lilossoms. And the summer's lieat
striking this fallow moistui-e-soaked loam causes sucli a riotous growtli
TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES 171
of all kiuds that a general unkempt appearance is presented. Ort-hard
alternates with wood lot and salt grass pasture with corn field and
dairy farm. Many tracts of fertile land remain undeveloped.
Yet this section contributes heavily in yearly revenue. Two
creameries in Visalia handle about one-fourth of the cream output of
the county; nearly all the prunes, having an annual value of about
half a million dollars, are produced; there are canning peaches for
two large factories, large quantities of fresh and dried fruits are
shipped; the beet sugar factory is located here and exports of hay
and live stock are constantly made.
Pursuing our way still further south we enter the territory
tributary to Tulare without perceiving any change in general charac-
teristics of scene, soil and productions. The oak groves, the alter-
nate farm and orchard continue. A change, however, has taken
place as we soon discover. We encounter fewer orchards, alfalfa
fields adjoin, making vast meadows. We find that we are in the
center of one of the great dairy sections. Fruit growing, frequently
in colony tracts, remains a feature, however, and ^-ineyards of con-
siderable acreage are noted. The dairy region here, besides taking
in the territory contiguous to Tulare, Tagus and Swall's, joins with
the Dinuba country by a narrow strip, passing through Goshen and
widening at Traver. This on the north. Southerly and westerly it
merges also with the Woodville and Poplar sections.
These latter districts possess some of the richest alluvial soil
as yet undeveloped in the county, but so far, dairying, general farming
and grain raising have been the only industries. Fruit growing, with
every facility of the most favored sections available, has not been
engaged in because of the lack of railroad acconnnodations. The
advent of the Big Four will doubtless change this.
From Tipton, on passing through Pixley and Earlimart to the
county line, we find vast grain and hay fields, little alfalfa, few fruit
trees, much land apparently fertile, unplowed. Also we find large
tracts being subdivided, settlers in numbers building homes, water
being pumjjed and alfalfa and orchards being planted. Only in
recent years has it been discovered that very cheaply could the fertile
lands in these vicinities be made to produce alnuidantly by pump
irrigation. A very rapid increase in population seems assured.
Westward now. towarils the lake in the neighborhood of Cor-
coran, Augiola and Ali)augli, ciitii'cly ucw characteristics confront
us. AVe enter again a great alfalfa belt, not only supjilyiug its
dairies with feed, but furnishing enormous quantities of hay for
shipment. Great grain fields there are, iiroducing extraordinary
yields. Some natural swampy meadow land lies here. In i)laces.
instead of irrigation, leveling and drainage are practiced. Artesian
wells in manv localities suiiplv wafer for in-igafion and for stock.
172 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
But we must turn now and look at the country lying along the
east side branch railroad. Surprises most extraordinary here await
us. So great a difference exists that we can scarcely believe that
we are in the same county. Merged indeed the two separate regions
are at Orosi, but as one jjroceeds southward through Exeter, or if
he choose, first through "Woodlake, Naranjo or Lemon Cove and
then on and stops off at either Exeter, Lindsay, Stratlunore or
Porterville, a scene wholly strange greets the eye.
Orange groves and yet again orange groves, one practically
continuous stretch. Not even a fence divides them. The chain of
footliills is their background, but it is a rampart up which they climb
and into whose recesses all along the way they cluster. No canals or
ditches here, no alfalfa, no green mats of salt grass pasture, no oaks
nor cottonwoods. Parched and dry, hard and l)arren looking is the
soil in the places unset to orchards. And yet, within them everywhere
trickling in little furrows between the rows run streamlets of water,
the moisture from them soaking and permeating the soil.
The system of irrigation here is almost wholly that of pumps
operated by electric motors, and while this lielt lacks the natural
beauty of the wooded lowland, it is fast coming to be the most pleas-
ing and attractive to the eye. Avenues lined with palm or other
ornamental trees lead to country homes surrounded by handsome
lawns and exquisite flower plots.
From Porterville the district extends south through Terra Bella,
Ducor and Richgrove to the county line. This i)ortion, however,
is of newer development and the process of converting grain ranches
into orange groves is but now beginning. Thousands of acres of
young orchards are set and thousands more liave lieen purchased
for the purpose of planting to citrus fruits, but liere and almost
only here within the county remains enough land sown to grain to
keep harvesters busy and fill warehouses with wheat.
Eastward back of the orange belt extend thousands of acres of
foothill grazing range, supporting vast hei-ds. This region is wooded
and springs furnishing stock water are numerous. Two gateways
there are to the higher Sierras, viz: Three Rivers for the Kaweah
watershed and Springville for the Tule river.
In both of these comumnities apples of fine (luality are grown
and orange groves reach to their gates. Beyond and between them
the grazing belt extends for many miles, and still beyond, throughout
the range of mountains are found extensive meadows and other
feeding grounds which furnish pasture for many cattle during the
sunmier months.
At an elevation of about noOO feet one enters a 1)elt of i)ine
timber. This, mixed with the Sequoia gigantea, and, as one reaches
the higher altitudes, with tir and tamarack, extends tliroughout the
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTl KS 173
county almost niihrokeuly. Several sawmills ai'c in operation with
an annual cut of about three million feet, but on account of the lack
of roads, most of this timber is inaccessible and will probably remain
so for many years.
On the way to the higher mountain rcijions one passes on ])otli
the rivers extensive works of electrical power companies. Dams,
reservoirs, long high-perched flumes, lines of steel pipe down the
mountain side, and the whir of immense djTiamos are evidences of
the enterprises by which the mountain torrent is harnessed ajid the
river converted into a laborer of the field.
J^or these utilitarian piirposes of producing milling timber and
electric energy, for furnishing feed for droves of cattle and for
storing the snowfall of winter and returning it to the valley in
time for need, the Sierra Nevada mountains are an incalculably
valuable asset of Tulare county.
The mountains also constitute a cool summer retreat and are
frecfuented by throngs of health and pleasure seekers each year.
Trout fishing in the mountain streams generally is excellent, the
Kern lakes and the u]iper Kern rivers and their tributaries being
especially famous in this respect. Hunting for deer and bear is
good and the sport has many devotees.
The mountain scenery is of so marvelous a character as to iiive
it a wide-spreading and rapidly increasing fame. For beauty and
grandeur the canyon or gorge of the Kern river is comparable only
to the Yosemite or to Kings river canyon. Throughout the higher
Sierras the effects of volcanic and glacial action, of erosion, disin-
tegration and other forces have caused formations strangely l)eautiful,
impressively awesome, wierdly fantastic. Combining to charm and
please are ferns and flowers, silent forests, lawn-like meadows, placid
lakes. Streams drop in roaring cascades or fall in sheets of misty
vapor. Th(fy tinkle, or murmur, or rhythmically roar. Snowy peaks
of jagged outline mark the skyline.
Many groves of the giant sequoia are found tln-oughout the
range at an elevation of between 5500 and 7500 feet, the largest
being known as the Giant Forest. About 5000 of the trees are here
located, among them being what so far as known is the largest tree
in the world. Plot springs, caves, mineral springs, are other features
of attraction. Wholly within the county lies the Sequoia National
Park, containing seven townships. The Tule river Indian reservation
is located in the southerly mountain section. There are many peaks
of thirteen thousand feet and over, several exceeding fourteen thou-
sand feet, and crowning all, Mt. AVhitney, 14,502 feet above sea level.
174 TULAEE AND KINGS COUNTIES
CHAPTER XX
THE ORGANIZATION OF KINGS COUNTY
Bij F. A. Dodge
Tlie creation aud organization of Kiug-s count}' as a political
division of the state was the accomplishment of the spirit of develop-
ment and jirogTcss which has ever conquered the wilderness and
caused the deserts to vanish.
Until the spring of 189o the territory which we are to consider
was a part of Tulare county, and therefore the early history of
settlement and development is a part of the history of that county
and the reader will find in this volume an interesting and instructive
accounting of those early days when men and women of small means
but determined will, laid the foundation of what today is one of the
most prosperous and enlightened agricultural divisions of beloved
California.
People who build an imperishable state have always com-
menced at the foundation, and all enduring foundations ever yet
constructed have been begun by a community bound together by that
greatest common tie — Necessity. Those who today behold with
admiring eye the broad vineyards, prolific orchards and expanding
meadows of this central valley of California should have jn-eserved
in some historical form the story of the past that they and their
children may appreciate the hardy, brave and self-sacrificing ones
who grappled with the problems which confronted them in an isolated
desert at a time when even Tulare county was no longer a child
among the counties of the state; and along with that history it is
right and proper that mention of those people, with some of their
personal history, should be written, and this volume is intended to
accomplish that end. In the department devoted to Tulare county
the author has dealt with what now is the county of Kings up to the
date of its organization and what is to be chronicled here will there-
fore relate to events of comparatively recent occurrence, for this
county is among the youngest in the state. The efforts of its people,
however, to secure their independence date back into the year 1886.
At that time the center of population of the western portion of
Tulare coimty was the country in the immediate vicinity of the then
small towns of lianford, Lemoore and Grangeville. This comnumity
had been made possible through the application of water to the soil
for purposes of irrigation. Long before the stirring times of
the Mussel Slough tragedy recounted at length in this work, the
life-giving waters of Kings river had been taken out upon tlie dry
plain, and the earliest demonstration of irrigation as practiced in
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 175
central California was made in the vicinity of Grangeville. Fiom
that time development was as rapid as was possible, considerin.y tlie
lack of finances possessed by those who had located on the barren
soil. The story of hardship, deprivation and suffering experienced
by the early settlers, their struggle with land barons who sought to
monopolize the great plains for cattle ranges during the short season
when wild feed was abundant; the fight with the railroad corporation,
and finally the struggle for and the triurajiliant victory realized for
mdependent county government are all worthy of record; but the
progress of the people during the past nineteen years is to foi-ni the
basis of tliis contrilmtiou.
ORGANIZING FOR A COUNTY
Successful agriculture, wherever irrigation had been practiced
in tlie "Mussel Slough" country, was proclaimed by the early irriga-
tionists to their friends beyond the Sierras. The letters written
"back home" to be read and reread around the old firesides brought
from the states of the Mississippi valley and from the Atlantic
states many settlers. Californians by adoption who had settled in
Yolo, Sacramento, San Joaquin and other counties to the north also
were attracted hither by the stories told of the prolific soil and tlif^
opportunities offered in the rich country south of Kings river. (Ir.-iin
farming was soon made companion to alfalfa, and stockraising was
undertaken iu a more domestic manner than that which jirevailed
when the herdsman held sway and laid claim to all the plains his
vaqueros could survey. Then the planting of the grape and the
deciduous fruits followed, each step demonstrating the adaptability
of the soil and climate to diversified husbandry. All of this resulted
in the western portion of Tulare county acquiring a more rapid
settlement than those other districts where irrigation had not been
introduced. This condition was the inspiration to the movement
to organize a new county government, and in the fall of 1886, Dr.
A. B. Biitler, who was at that time a practicing ]ihysician located
at the town of Grangeville, and a very popular gentleman, as well
as one of the leading physicians of the district, was put fortli as a
candidate for member of the assembly from the district comprising
Tulare county. Butler was a Republican, and the county was a
Democratic stronghold. But Dr. Butler was also an astute politician
and that portion of the county in which he lived was the Republican
stronghold of the county. That his successful election to tlie
Assembly of Cahfornia at Sacramento meant tlie liegimiing of a
plan to form a new county either did not appear on tlie surface,
or if it did it was viewed with complacency by those who considered
such a possibility unworthy of the least attention. Butler was elected,
and there began the story of liow Kings county caTiic to b(> on tlie
maj) of California.
176 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
During tbe session of the California legislature in February, 1887,
Assemblyman Butler introduced a bill to cut off a portion of western
Tulare county and add to it a portion of Fresno county south
of the fourth standard parallel line. The movement immediately
met with opposition and a strong lobby was set to work by Visalia
and Tulare interests, and the county division measure failed. It
was, however, the beginning of a long campaign, and the editorial
prophecy made by the Hanford Sentinel of February 17. 1887, that
"The seed of county division has been planted which will in tlie
course of events sprout a new county," came true.
In the legislative campaign of 1888, W. S. Cunningham, a well-
known citizen of Lemoore, and a Democrat, was elected assemblyman.
On the strength of a desire for a new county the candidate received
much hearty support from Republicans during his campaign. Mr.
Cunningham introduced a county division bill at the twenty-ninth
session, but, it too, met with strong opposition from the mother
county, and failed. The next legislative campaign saw the question
of creating a new county thrust to the fore. Population had greatly
increased, and the demand for facilities for the transaction of public
business nearer the center of that population had received new
impetus, and a Hanford citizen was agreed upon for assembhanan.
Frank A. Blakeley, a Republican, and a man well known and popular,
was the chosen candidate. He won the election, and immediately
preparation was begun for the final fight. A strong committee
composed of business men of all political faiths was formed in
Hanford, and included citizens from Lemoore and Graugeville, and
farmers. A bill was drafted by Dixon L. Phillips, an attorney of
Hanford, and a committee headed by such men as George X.
Wendling, E. E. Busli, Richard Mills, Justin Jacobs, Frank L. Dodge,
R. W. Musgrave and others established the committee headquarters
in Sacramento, and assisted Assembl}^nan Blakeley in his fight.
In the early struggles the name proposed for the new coimty
was Lorrain, but that name was abandoned and Kings was adopted
in its stead, as being more significant. The name Kings was well
received and the county was thus christened after Kings river, the
principal source of the irrigation for the district, which stream was
discovered in 1805 by an exploring expedition and named Rio de Tjos
Santos Reyes (The River of the Holy Kings).
The Kings county division fight was regarded as the ureat
struggle of the session of 1892-93. William H. Alford, a lirilliant
young attorney from Tulare county, and a Democrat, was assembly-
man from the eastern Y>art of Tulare county, while Stockton Berry, an
influential landowner, was senator from the district, and both stood
solidly opposed to division. At this session Fresno county had a
similar contest on. and the effort to create the countv of ^Madera
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 177
from Fresno was made simultaneously, and succeeded. Riverside
county was another of the new county movements at this identical
session. Of course, the leaders who were interested in all of these
fights sought to comhine their forces, and succeeded in doing so.
The contest was long-drawn, and much hitterness was engendered,
but all the wounds have, been long since healed with the salve of time
and the admitted wisdom of permitting communities possessing suf-
ficient wealth and population to enjoy those measures of home -rule
which by right belongs to them.
The Blakeley bill, after a turbulent, and at times almost hopeless
history, finally passed both houses. The vote in the assembly was
forty-five ayes to twenty-seven noes, and in the senate it received
twentv-four aves to fifteen noes. The senate's action was taken on
March 11, 1893.
As originally created the county had an area of 1257 square miles
and when organized in 1893 had an estimated population of 7325.
The assessable acreage at that time was 427,281 acres. Ten years
after organization the county had a bonded debt of only $32,000,
and ten years later, or now, it has no bonded debt. The United
States census of 1900 gave the population as 9871, and the thir-
teenth census, 1910, gave it 16,230, and an assessed valuation of
$14,283,622. By the addition of a strip of territory from Fresno
county through the operation of the Webber bill passed by the
legislature in 1908-9, the county today has a total area of 1375
square miles or 118 square miles more than it originally possessed.
TULARE AND KIXG8 COUNTIES
CHAPTER XXI
LUCERNE VALLEY
In tlie year 1886 Frank L. Dodge, a newspaper man from
Iowa, arrived with his family in Hanford, ostensibly on a visit
to brothers and sisters who had located near that town in the
pioneer days. Mr. Dodge became enamonred of the country and
there being at that time no newspaper published in Hanford, with
his oldest brother, the late David Dodge, he founded the Hanford
Weekly Sentinel. Like many other people from the East he had
a distaste for the term "slough" as applied to a country, the
name suggesting mire and miasma to one unacquainted with the
term as applied to Mussel Slough which, it is known, is the name
given to the natural channels which in early days were open and
in flood times were flowing streams. Mr. Dodge sought for a more
attractive name for this district and in his paper of xipril 21, 1887,
gave Mussel Slough a new christening and called it Lucerne Vallej^,
a name which stuck to it until the formation of Kings county. We
c[uote from the article naming the district the following: "Nestled
among the heights of the storied Alps, fanned by the breezes of
Switzerland, is a favored spot, the name of which adorns the page
of story and gladdens the minstrel's song. 'The Sweet Yale of
Lucerne' is a canton containing 474 square miles, a beautiful country
noted for its great production of fruit, stock, grain, and lucerne, or
alfalfa clover. It has the River Reuss, the placid Lucerne Lake
and the never-fading Alps for prominent geographical features.
In 1870, 'The Sweet Vale of Lucerne,' Switzerland, contained 132,338
people.
"This beautiful country of ours about Hanford with its Kings
river, its Sierra Nevada and Coast Range mountains, and its glit-
tering Tulare Lake, with its superior fruits, stock, grain, alfalfa
and climatic advantages is eminently worthy to be a namesake of
that old, rich and venerable Lucerne of Europe. This has about
the same area and the elements of greater possibilities. Had this,
our district, the population of the Lucerne of Europe the spindles
of manufacture and the wheels of commerce would thrill the land
with active life; the thorough cultivation which would be put upon
the land would make it a lovely garden of vegetable luxury; homes
would bloom amid floral bowers and fruited branches.
"The Lucerne of California has all the possibilities that fancy
may ]iicture for an earthly dwelling place. Let our people awaken
and hasten on the march of improvements — work to reach that
grand develo])inent which should enrich, endear and exalt a country
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 179
which kind Nature has so richly endowed with the elements of
greatness. ' '
The suggestion made by the editor fell on fruitful soil and
took root and grew into a sentiment which finally changed the
name of the judicial township from Mussel Slough to Lucerne; and
under a euphoneous and attractive name the glories of this produc-
tive western country were heralded abroad, doing a share of the
good work of development.
CHAPTER XXII
EARLY COUNTY POLITICS
As a political organization Kings county dates from May 2."?,
1893. The bill creating the county was signed by Governor H. IL
Markham March 23, 1893, and the governor appointed a commis-
sion for the purpose of carrying out the act. This commission was
composed of the following named citizens of the now county:
Samuel E. Biddle, E. E. Bush, William J. Newport, William Ogden
and John H. Malone. Both Mr. Biddle and Mr. Newport had been
members of the board of supervisors of Tulare county.
This commission appeared before Dixon L. Phillips, a notary
public, on April 3, 1893, and were sworn into office. They imme-
diately organized by electing S. E. Biddle chairman and by select-
ing George X. Wendling secretary, then adjourned till the following
day, Tuesday, April 4, when the commission met and accepted an
offer from the Farmers and Merchants Bank for an office room free
of rental in which to hold the meetings of the board. On April 5
another meeting was held and the county was formed into five
supervisoral districts, as follows: District No. 1, embracing the
southwestern portion of the county with three voting precincts, viz:
West End, Kings River and Lemoore; District No. 2, embracing
the southern portion of the county with three voting precincts, viz.:
Paddock. Lakeside and Dallas; District No. 3, embracing the north-
eastern and eastern portion of the county, with three precincts,
viz: Lucerne. Excelsior and Cross Creek; District No. 4. embracing
the northern ' and northwestern portion of the county with three
precincts, viz: Armona, Grangeville and Lucerne; and District No.
5, embracing the city of Hanford.
THE FIRST ELECTION CALLED
On the 18th day of April the county commission issued the first
call for an election. This call embraced, besides the electi(»n of a
180 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
full set of coiiuty officers, the vote upon the question of ratifying
the act of the legislature in creating the county, said measure re-
quiring that the vote necessary to ratification must be two-thirds of
the electors of the county voting in the affirmative. The call fixed
the date of the election on May 23, 1893.
PARTIES GOT INTO ACTION
As there had been unity of action between the members of all
political parties within the boundaries of the new proposed county
in the effort to secure the county there was much harmonious spirit
prevailing among the parties when it came to placing tickets before
the people. The one great effort to be made was to secure the
county and toward that end the politicians worked in harmony
yet with much zeal for their respective candidates.
The first political conventions were held in Hauford on Wednes-
day, April 19, 1893, the Republicans holding their gathering at
Pythian Hall, a framed structure on East Fifth street, which was
subsequently burned and never rebuilt, and the Democrats convened
in Baker's Hall, at that time the most popular lodge and society
hall in the county, but long since abandoned for public meetings.
The People's Party also held a convention and placed in nomination
a few candidates. So enthusiastic were all parties in their desire to
ratify the legislative act and secure the county, that committees
were appointed by each convention for the purpose of conferring
and securing the nomination of candidates that would lend the most
strength to the cause of county formation. The results of the
convention day were that the following nominations were made to
be placed on the Australian form of ballot : For Superior Judge —
Justin Jacobs, Republican; Dixon L. Phillips, Democrat. For Dis-
trict Attorney— Cosmer B. Clark, People's Party; C. W. Talbot,
Republican. For County Clerk — Francis Cunningham, Democrat;
Fl-ed R. McFee, Republican. For Sheriff — W. V. Buckner, Repub-
lican; R. E. McKenna, Democrat. For Tax Collector — Jesse Brown,
Democrat; Frank J. Peacock, Republican. For Treasurer — Stiles
McLaughlin, Republican; W. H. Slavin, Democrat. For Recorder —
Louis Decker, Republican. For Auditor — C. C. Farnsworth, Demo-
crat. For Assessoi- — John Rourke, Democrat; John Worswick, Re-
publican. For Suijeriutendent of Schools — A. P. Keran, Repul)lican;
C. A. McCourt, Democrat. For Surveyor — E. P. Irwin, Republican;
Joseph Williams, Democrat. For Coroner — B. R. Clow, Democrat ;
Charles W. Sullivan, Republican.
These were the convention nominations, but the ticket was not
entirely filled, leaving the way open for independent candidates
and these were supplied as follows: For district attorney, M. L.
Short and B. C. Mickle went on the 1)allot as independents, as did
TULAKE AND KINGS COUNTIES 181
F. M. Frazer for recorder, C. W. Clark for auditor, Gooryo AV.
Murray for auditor and A. S. Bryau for coroner.
Supervisors were nominated from four districts. J. II. Fox,
who was a member of the Tulare county board of supervisors at
the time held over, and his residence being at Leraoore, which was
in District No. 1, no nominations for supervisor were made in
that district.
The party nominations in the four remaining districts were:
District No. 2 — For supervisor, Robert Doherty, Democrat; R. G.
White, Republican, and Frank McClellan, People's Party. District
No. 3 — For supervisor, George A. Dodge, Republican; J. G. Mackey,
Democrat. District No. 4 — For supervisor, Horace Johnson, Peojile's
Party; W. A. Long, Republican. District No. 5— S. E. Biddle.
Democrat; Frank J. Walker, Republican.
The election resulted in the choice of a mixed set of comity
officers, politically, and the carrying of the cause of county creation
by an overwhelming majority, the vote on the formation of tlie
eountv being 182-1, of whicli 1412 were recorded as "Yes" and
412 as "No."
The first set of county officials elected in the county was as
follows: Superior .judge, Justin Jacobs; county clerk, Francis Cun-
ningham; sheritT, W. V. Buckner; tax collector, Frank J. Peacock;
W. H. Slavin, treasurer; recorder, Frank M. Frazer; auditor, C. C.
Farnsworth; district attorney, M. L. Short; assessor, John Rourke;
superintendent of schools, C. H. McCourt; coroner, B. R. Clow; public
administrator. Mace Allen ; surveyor, E. P. Irwin ; supervisor, 1st dis-
trict, J. H. Fox; supervisor, 2nd district, Frank McClellan; supervisor,
3rd district, J. G. Mackey; supervisor, 4th district, W. A. Long; super-
visor, 5th district, S. E. Biddle.
SETTING UP HOUSEKEEPING
(_)n Monday morning. May 9, 1893, the commissioners met and
canvassed the returns of" the election and declared the results. The
official count gave the total number of votes as 1919, thus showing
that there were 55 who failed to vote either for or against county
division.
Superior Judge Jacobs received his commission from, the gov-
ernor on May 31, and filed the same with the clerk of the county
commission, Mr. Wendling. The supervisors-elect were given cer-
tificates of election and were sworn into office, each member giving a
bond of $5000. On June 1 the board of supervisors organized by
electing J. II. Fox, of Lemoore, chairman. The several county
officers-elect api^eared before the board and were sworn in on
that day, and the machinery of government for the new county
was in working order.
TULAKE AND KINGS COUNTIES
lyTQ COUNTY BUILDINGS
Having- finally formed a new county and installed the officers,
the next stej) was to secure office rooms for the transaction of
business, until such time as county grounds could be purchased
and buildings erected. The supervisors immediately set to work
and in a short time had the several officials housed, although the
limited number of vacant ofHce buildings in the county seat necessi-
tated the scattering of the offices all about the city. The Hanford
opera house block which had recently been completed at the corner
of Irwin and Seventh streets, afforded room for several officials
and their I'ecords, and on the second floor of that building the re-
corder, auditor, surveyor, district attorney, county clerk, superior
judge and supervisors were temporarily located. The Farmers
and Merchants Bank gave accommodations for the tax collector and
the treasurer; the assessor and superintendent of schools were
located in a one-story brick structure on West Seventh street.
Later the sheriff's office and county jail were located on West Sixth
street to the west of the corner of Irwin, and the superior court
and county clerk were given quarters on the second floor over the
jail.
While the arrangements were far from convenient, the county
business was carried on economically and well. A steel cage was
purchased which answered for a jail for a number of years, and
while some desperate criminals were at times confined there, there
was never a jail delivery even from that temporary structure.
COUNTY WITHOUT FUNDS
At the final meeting of the board of county commissioners just
prior to turning over the affairs to the board of supervisors. Com-
missioner J. H. Malone offered a resolution which was adopted
and made of record, that the new county possessed a population of
5900 souls, and tliat Kings county be declared a county of the
Forty-third class, and when the supervisors took up their work
they found themselves with that much of a county to legislate for,
but there was not a cent in the treasury. The first matter, there-
fore, to attend to was to provide the means for carrying on the
county business, and the first act of the board of supervisors was
to apply to Tulare county for that portion of the road and school
funds belonging to the territory Avithin the boundary of the new
county, and it was resolved to demand from the old mother county
such funds due Kings county on the 1st day of June, 189.3, the
amount being $14,655.58, and accept that amount from Tulare,
provided that the latter woi;ld stipulate an agreement that no suit
to contest the legality of the Kings county election would be brought.
This deuuuid was met by Tulare coimty to the extent of $13,289.2fi.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 183
of which $1U,;)1().16 was from the road fund, and $2,370.10 from
the school fund. With this small amount of ready money. Kings
county began its own official career, and faced the promise made
during the division campaign to so conduct the affairs of the
county that the tax rate under the new order of things would not
exceed the tax rate which had prevailed when the new countv was
a part of Tulare.
RATIFICATION
On the 6th day of the following July the citizens of the county
held a celebration in the city of Hanford at which the creation of
the county was joyously ratified in conjunction with the celebration
of the one hundred and seventeenth anniversary of the Independence
of the United States. The pleasing feature of the celebration was
the appearance as orator for the occasion of James H. White, a
prominent citizen of Tulare county who refused to remonstrate
against the formation of the new county. He was introduced by
the Hon. F. A. Blakeley, the assembhTiian who introduced and car-
ried through the Kings County bill. Sberitf Buckner was the grand
marshal, and conducted a memorable parade, there being many
splendid floats displayed in commemoration of the independence of
Nation and County.
DISPUTING VALIDITY OF THE COUNTY
As an outgrowth of the heated contest waged between the
mother county and the people of the new county, the question as to
the validity of the act and the proceedings followed out in the
creation and organization of Kings county arose. This question
was settled by an opinion issued by Deputy Attorney General
Oregon Sanders, approved by the Attorney General W. H. H. Hart,
on the 19th day of June, 1893. In the opinion the State Department
set forth at length that the three counties created during the legis-
lative session of 1892-93, viz: Riverside, Madera and Kings, were
legally formed, and the acts under which said counties were formed
are constitutional. This set at rest for all time any question of the
legal standing of those three counties.
FIRST TAX RATE FIXED
At the regular meeting of the supervisors held September
25, 1893, the fixing of the tax rate for the fiscal year 1893-94 was
ordered. This was the first action of the kind in the new county,
and the rate was made as follows: State, fifty-nine cents and six
mills, road eighteen cents, hospital five cents and county general
forty-six cents and four mills, making a total rate of $1.45 on the
$100 valuation.
184 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
COUNTY POLITICS IN SUBSEQUENT YEARS
In the niontli of June, 1894, the several political parties con-
fronted the first regular nominating campaign to place candidates
in the lield at the general election, which was held in November
of that year. The Republicans of the county nominated the follow-
ing ticket: Superior judge, Justin Jacobs; sheriff, W. V. Buckner;
county clerk, F. L. Howard; recorder and auditor, F. J. Peacock;
treasurer and tax collector, J. N. Hoyt; assessor, G. W. Follett;
superintendent of schools, J. W. Graham; district attorney, A. G.
Park; coroner and iDublic administrator, J. A. Moore; surveyor,
E. P. Irwin; supervisors: B. L. Barney, W. A. Long, J. M. Hamilton,
George B. McCord and Styles McLaughlin; constables, H. M. Bern-
stein, O. G. Bryan, J. H. Thompson; justices of the peace, J. B,
Lewis, G. W. Randall, G. Harrington.
The Democrats placed in nomination the following ticket:
Superior judge, Archibald Yell ; sheriff, L. E. Hall ; county clerk,
Francis Cunningham; recorder and auditor, C. C. Farnsworth;
treasurer and tax collector, W. H. Slavin; assessor, John Rourke;
superintendent of schools, C. A. McCourt; district attoi'ney, M. L.
Short; coroner and public administrator, B. R. Clow; supervisors:
D. Gamble, Jesse Brown; John Dawson, C. D. Coates, H. Clawson;
constables: A. E. Blakeley, George E. Goodrich; justices of the
peace : Rufus Abbott, Joseph Williams, Frank Bullard, G. N. Furnish.
The People's Party also placed nominees in the field, as follows:
For sheriff, J. C. Goar; county clerk, John Gerow; recorder and
auditor, P. M. Frazer; treasurer and tax collector, John Wyruck;
assessor, F. E. Howe; superintendent of schools, N. Z. Woodward;
district attorney, Cosmer B. Clark; coroner and public adminis-
trator, T. J. McQuiddy; survevor, David Ross; supervisors: S. H.
Von Schmidt, E. J. Gibson, T. F. Dillon, Frank McClellan, T. W.
Standart; constables, J. K. Davis, C. L. Pritchard, G. L. Meadows,
Bascom Runyon; justices of the peace: J. P. Ford, James Shay.
The election was held November 6, and there was a total of
1843 votes cast. That year Kings county cast its plurality vote for
M. M. Estee, Republican candidate for governor, giving him 696.
James H. Budd, the Democratic candidate, received 598; J. V. Web-
ster, People's Party candidate, received 400, and Henry French,
Prohibition candidate, received 93 votes.
The county contest was strenuously fought. That was the year
when Populism was strong in this and Tulare county, and James
McClellan, Populist nominee for assemblyman, was elected, the dis-
trict then being composed of Kings county and a portion of Tulare.
The final count of the votes cast elected the following county
officials: Superior judge, Justin Jacobs (R.) ; sheriff. W. Y. Bnck-
ner (R.) ; clerk, Francis Cunningham (D.) ; recorder and auditor.
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 185
F. J. Peacock (R.) ; treasurer aud tax collector, W. H. Slavin (D.);
assessor, G. H. Follett (R.) ; superintendent of schools, J. W. Graham
(R.) ; district attorney, M. L. Short (D.) ; coroner and public admin-
istrator, J. A. Moore (R.) ; surveyor, E. P. Irwin (R.) ; supervisors:
B. L. Barney (R.), W. A. Long (R.), T. F. Dillon (P.P.), Frank
McClellan (P.P.), Styles McLaughlin (R.) ; constables: H. M. Bern-
stein (R.), George E. Goodrich (D.), G. N. Furnish (D.) ; justices
of the peace: George W. Randall (R.), J. B. Lewis (R.), G. L.
Meadows (P.P.).
These officials took office on the following January ]st.
EI.ECTIOK OF 1896
The election of ]S96 concerned only National and district matters,
with the exception that in the second supervisoral district of the
county there was a A-acaney to be tilled. Supervisor Frank McClellan
resigned his office, aud the contest for the vacancy was between
George W. Clute, Republican, and F. M. Frazer, People's Party.
The latter won the election. Kings county at this election went
with the Fusionists, the McKinley electoral ticket receiving but 673
votes to 863 for the Bryan electoral ticket. The county also voted
a plurality of 118 for C. H. Castle, Fusion candidate for congress,
defeating W. W. Bowers, the Republican candidate. The county
cast forty-seven independent votes for W. H. Carlson, and twenty-
two for J. W. Webb, Prohibition candidate. James McClellan.
Fusionist, carried the county for assembhanan against George ]',.
McCord, Republican, by a majority of 203. The total registration
of the county at this time was 1883, and the total vote cast was 1613.
ELECTTOlSr OF 1898
On account of tlie death of Superior Judge .Justin .lac()l)s, wliicli
occurred on September 18, 1898, some new interest was injected into
county politics. Upon the vacancy on the bench being created. Gov-
ernor James H. Budd appointed Dixon L. Phillips, of Hanford, to
fill out the unexpired term. Mr. Phillips had been prominent in the
work of organizing the county, and being strong with the governor
politically, his application met with executive approval. lie took
his seat on the bench Se]3tember 29.
M. L. Short, who was then district attorney, liled his ^x'tition to
become an independent candidate for judge at the coming election.
Horace L. Smith, an attorney, who shortly prior to this time had
located in Hanford, also came out for judge as an independent, and
Dixon L. Phillii)s ai)i)eared in the race as a Fusionist suppoi-ted
by the Democrats, Po])ulists and Silver Republicans. The campaign
was a lively one, but the Repulilicans had no candidate for the
judgeshi]). There was no regular Democratic ticket for the county
this year, but all opposition to the K("i)ublican i)arty went by the
186 TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES
title of Fusionists. The race for the judgeship resulted in a victory
for M. L. Short, he receiving a clear majority of 219 votes over
his competitors.
The Republicans nominated AV. V. Buckner for sheriff, while
George E. Shore was the Fusion candidate. Buckner was elected;
F. Cunningham (F.) (;iefeated B. A. Fassett (E.) for clerk; F. J.
Peacock (R.) and J. M. Bowman (F.) ran a neek-aud-neck race for
recorder, each receiving 900 votes. The result of this tie caused
the board of supervisors to call a special election to decide the tie.
The date of said election was Decem])er 6, and the total vote which
was cast at that election was 1537, of which Mr. Bowman received
827 and Mr. Peacock 710, and Bowman was declared elected.
Rowen Irwin (F.) defeated A. G. Park (R.) for district attorney,
and S. M. Roseuberger (R.) won the anditorship against S. Sensa-
baugh (F.). For treasurer W. H. Slaviu (F.) was successful, his
opponent being A. M. Stone (R.). Peter Van Valer (R.) tried con-
clusions with John Wyruck (F.) for tax collector, the former win-
ning. G. W. Fojlett (R.) defeated Frank McClellan (F.) for asses-
sor, and W. M. Tliomas (R.) won the race for coroner and public
administrator over Dr. Foley (F.). J. "W. Graham (R.) was chosen
superintendent of schools, his apponent being J. J. Duvall (F.).
E. P. Irwin (R.) defeated C. W. Talbot (F.) for surveyor.
The supervisors elected were J. T. McJunkin, Styles McLaugh-
lin and George Tomer, Republicans, and L. S. Chittenden and W. S.
Burr, Fusionists. The unsuccessful candidates were S. B. Hicks.
C. H. Brooks, James McDonald, all Fusionists, and George Curry,
Independent.
Township officers were elected as follows : Justice of the peace
— George W. Randall, C. M. Smith and Bert Goldsmith, Repub-
licans, and H. J. Light, Fusionist. Constables chosen were H. M.
Bernstein (R.) and George Goodrich and Granville Furnisli, Fu-
sionist.
The county gave a slight majority for J. C. Needham, Repub-
lican, for Congress. Also a plurality of twenty votes for Henry T.
Gage, Republican, for governor. The total vote of the countv was
192L
ELECTTOX OF 1900
In November, 1900, the total vote of the county as counted was
2082. The county contest was over the election of superior judge,
member of the assembly and surveyor. The Presidential election
of this year also called upon the county to vote for a member of
congress. In the county election the principal fight was between
E. T. Cosper, an ex-assemblyman, and M. L. Short, the incumbent
on the bench. Mr. Short was the Democratic nominee, and won
the election over Mr. Cosper, Reimblican, l)y a vote of 1048 to 950
TULARE AND KINGS COUNTIES 187
R. H. Myers (R.) for the assembly, received 997 votes; R. Mills
(D.), 887, and W. R. McQuiddy (Pro.), 99 votes. The county gave
J. C. Needham (R.), for congress, a plurality of 144. The presidential
electors on the Republican ticket carried the county, the vote being
1032, to 877 for the Democratic electors, 42 for the Social Demo-
crats and 48 for the Prohibitionists.
COrXTV ELECTION OF 1902
This campaign was between the Republicans and Democrats,
the former Populistic organization having passed out of the run-
ning. The Republicans nominated the following tirhct : Slieriff, W. V.
Buckner; clerk, Samuel Mullin; recorder, Clark Apiilfizaith ; tax col-
lector, Peter Van Valer; auditor, S. M. Roseubcrgcr; district attorney.
H. Scott Jacobs; assessor, George W. Murray; treasurer. J. M.
Camp; superintendent of schools, J. W. Graham; surveyor. John
Benedict ; coroner and public administrator, W. M. Thomas.
For supervisors the following were nominated: S. McLaughlin,
F. P. Watson, H. D. Barton, John Worswick and James Manasse.
The township officers nominated were: For justice of the peace,
C. M. Smith and George W. Randall. For constable, H. M. Bern-
stein and C. E. Kendall.
R. H. Meyers, who had been elected two years lu-evious to the
assembl.v, succeeded during his term to get through a bill making
Kings county an assembly district by itself and he was, therefore,
given the Republican nomination for that office for a second term,
not, however, without much opposition in the county convention.
The Democrats placed before the people the following ticket:
For sheriff, L. S. Chittenden; clerk, F. Cunningham; district atto 
