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Books by William E. Smythe 



(i 



The Conque^ of 
Arid America'' 

New and Revised Ekiition 



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The revised edition of "Arid America*' contains many illustrations 
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THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

New York and London 




Books by William E. Smythe 



"CONSTRUCTIVE DEMOCRACY. THE ECONOMICS 

OF A SQUARE DEAL" 



**The Remedy for the Evils of Democracy Is More Democracy/* 



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HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 




"WOODS" (Inc.) 

Printers, Engravers and Binders 

l>os AnKcles, C<al. 

1907 



i 



HISTORY 



OF 



SAN DIEGO 



1542-1908 



AN ACCOUNT OF THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF THE 

PIONEER SETTLEMENT ON THE PACIFIC 

COAST OF THE UNITED STATES 

VOLUME I. 

OLD TOWN 

BY 

WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 

Author of "The Conquest of Arid America." "Constnidtive Democracy," Etc. 




SAN DIEGO 

THE HISTORY COMPANY 

1908 



Copyriffht IW by 
WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 



I 1 5864 






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• • « 

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.\ 



FOR THE FRIENDSHIP OF THE 
PEOPLE OF SAN DIEGO 




Contents 

Page 

Dedication 12 

Iiist of Illustrations 12 

List of Works Consulted 12 

Author 's Foreword 17 

Introduction : The Historical Pre-eminence of San Diego 21 

PART ONE 

PERIOD OF DISCOVERY AND MISSION RULE 

Chapter. 

I. The Spanish Explorers 27 

II. Beginnings of the Mission Kpoch 37 

in. The Taming of the Indian 48 

IV. The Day of Mission Greatness 60 

V. The End of Franciscan Rule 71 

Priests of San Diego Mission 76 

PART TWO 

WHEN OLD TOWN WAS SAN DIEGO 

I. Life on Presidio Uill Under the Spanish Flag 81 

List of Spanish and Mexican Commandants 96 

n. Beginnings of Agriculture and Commerce 98 

List of Ran<!ho9 in San Diego County 112 

m. Political Life in Mexican Days 114 

IV. Early Homes, Visitors and Families 131 

Y. Pleasant Memories of Social Life 142 

VI. Prominent Spanish Families 161 

Vn. The Indians' Relations With the Settlers 178 

List of Mission Indian Lands 198 

Vin. San Diego in the Mexican War 200 

IX. Public Affairs After the War 228 

X. Accounts of Early Visitors and Settlers 238 

XI. Annals of the Close of Old San Diego 250 

Xn. American Families of the Early Time 266 

Xin. The Journalism of Old San Diego 295 

XIV. Abortive Attempt to Establish New San Diego 316 

PART THREE 

THE HORTON PERIOD 

I. The Founder of the Modern City 326 

n. Horton 's Own Story 332 

m. Early Railroad Efforts, Including the Texas and Pacific 352 

IV. San Diego 's First Boom 366 

V. Some Aspects of Local Life 376 

PART FOUR 

PERIOD OF **THE GREAT BOOM" 

1. Coming of the Santa Fe 391 

n. Phenomena of the Great Boom 413 



6 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Chapter Page 

]ll. Growth of Public Utilities 435 

lA^. AVater Development 443 

PART FIVE 

THE LAST TWO DECADES 

T. Local Annals, After the Boom 455 

IJ. Political Affairs and Munici]»al Campaigns 464 

HI. Tiater .lournalism and Literature 479 

IV. The Disaster to the Bennington 503 

V. The Twentieth Centurv Davs 507 

VJ. John I). Spreckels Solves the Kailroa<l l*robleni 529 

PART SIX 

INSTITUTIONS OF CIVIC LIFE 

T. (^hurches stiHl Religious Life 537 

11. Scliools and Edu<'ation 568 

III. Records of the Bench and Bar 582 

IV. Growth of the Medical Profession 5^8 

V. The Public Librarv 610 

VI. Story of the City Parks 616 

\ll. The ' Chamber of Commerce 624 

VITl. Banks and Banking 636 

IX. Secret, Fraternal and Otiier Societies 648 

X. Account of the Fire De])artinent .« 665 

PART SEVEN 

MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS 

1. History of the San Diego Climate 675 

TT. San Diego Bay, Harbor an<l River 687 

m. Governmental Activities 697 

rV. The Suburbs of San Diego 706 

V. Political Roster 719 



Li^t of Publications Consulted in 
the Preparation of this Work . . . 

A la California; Sketches of Life in the Golden State, by Colonel Albert 

S. Evans, 1873. 
A Narrative of Voyages and Commercial Enterprises, by Richard J. 

Cleveland, Cambridge, 1842. 
Annals of San »anci8co, by Soul6, Gihon and Nisbet, 1854. 
Argonauts of '49, by David B. Leeper, 1894. 
Argument on Behalf of the Kansas Pacific Railway Company, by Ar- 

temas H. Holmes, New York, 1877. 
Annals of California, 1860. 
Armv of the United States, 1789 to 1896, by T. F. Rodenbaugh and 

W. L. Haskill, New York. 
A Truthful Woman in Southern California, by Kate Sanborn, 1894. 
Before the Gringo Came, by Gertrude Atherton. 
Cabrillo 's Voyage, Appendix to Part I, Translation of the Account of, 

bv Richard Stuart Evans. 
Cabrillo 's Vovage, bv Bartholome Ferrelo; V. S. Geographic Survey, 

Vol. VII,' 1879; Archeology. 
Cabrillo 's Voyage, by R. S. Evans; U. S. (ieographic Survey, Vol. VII, 

1879; Archaeology. 
California 350 Years Ago, 1888. 
California; A History of Upper and Lower, etc., by Alexander Forbes, 

London, 1839. 
California As It Is, San Francisco Call, 1888. 
California for Health, Pleasure and Residence, by Charles Nordhofif, 

1882. 
California Historical Societv, Publications of the 
California in 1837; Diary of Colonel Philip L. Edwards, 1890. 
California In Doors and Out, by Eliza W. Farnham, 1856. 
California Inter Pocula, bv H. H. Bancroft (Vol. 35 in the series), 1848- 

1856. 
California Life, by William Taylor, 1858. 

California Missions and How to Get There; Mrs. A. S. C. Forbes, 1903. 
California of the Padres, by Mrs. E. Hughes. 
California of the South, by Lindley and Widney, 1888. 
California Pastoral, by H. H. Bancroft (Vol. 34 in the series), 1769-1848. 
California Pictures in Prose and Verse, by Benjamin Parke Avery, 1885. 
California Sketches, by Leonard Kip. 

Californien, Land und Leute; von Robert von Schlagintweit, 1871. 
Centennial History of Los Angeles County. 

Charter and By-Laws of the Southern Trans-Continental Ry. Co.; Wash- 
ington, 1870. 
Chinigchinich, by Padre Jerenimo Boscana; New York, 1846. 
Chronicles of the Builders, by H. H. Bancroft. 
City and County of San Diego, by T. S. Van Dyke, 1888. 
Climate, Productions, etc., of San Diego, by Douglas Gunn, Chamber 

of Commerce, 1885. 
Conquest of New Mexico and California, etc., by Colonel Philip St. 

George Cooke, 1878. 
Diary of Father Palou, on Serra 's first journey through A It a California. 
Discovery of Our Pacific Coast, by R. A. Thompson (in Out West Mag- 
azine). 
Documentary History of the Military Occupation of California, etc., 

1846-1849. In the collection of e' W. Morse. 



8 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Early EngliHh Voyages to tbe Pacific Coast of America; Woodes Rogers 
(Reprint in Out West Magazine). 

El Dorado, by Bayard Taylor. 

EI Dorado, by D. A. Shaw. 1900. 

Father Junipero and the Mission Indians of California, by Mrs. H. H. 
Jackson, 19t)2. 

Glimpses of California and Its Missions; Mrs. H. H. Jackson, 1902. 

Historical Account of the Indians of California, Father Boscana *s. 

Historical Society of Southern California, Publications of 

History of Ancient or Lower California, by Clavijero. 

History of California, by H. II. Bancroft. 

History of California, by Hit toll, 4 vols., 1885. 

History of Catholic Missions in the U. S., by J. G. Shea, New York, 1855. 

History of San Diego County, etc.; Wallace W\ Elliott & Co., 1883. 

History of San Francisco, by Hittell, 1878. 

History of Southern California, An Illustrated; The Lewis Publishing 
Company, Chicago, 1890. 

Historv of the State of California, bv John Frost, 1859. 

History of the City of San Francisco, by Jno. W. Dwindle, San Fran- 
cisco, 1866. 

Horton Genealogj*. 

In and Out of the Old Missions, by George Wharton James. 

In the Footprints of the Padres; Charles Warren Stoddard, 1902. 

Information Relative to the City of San Diego (and Business Direc- 
tory); Chamber of Commerce, 1874. 

Kearny, General Stephen W., Life of 

Land of Sunshine. 

Life in California, by Alfred Robinson. 

Manuelita, by Marian C. Wilson. 

Mediterranean Shores of America, by P. <!. Remondino, M. D. 

Memoirs of My Life, by John C. Fremont, 1887. 

Millionaires of a Day, by Theodore S. Van Dyke, 1890. 

Missions of California; Laura Bride Powers, 1897. 

Missions of New California; Charles F. Carter, 1900. 

My First California Pastorate, by Bishop W^m, Ingraham Kip. 

Native Races, by II. H. Bancroft (5 vols.), San Francisco, 1882-3. 

Natural Wealth'of California, by T. F. Chronise, 1868. 

Notes of a Militarv Reconnaissance from Fort Leavenworth in Mis- 
souri to San Diego in California, by W. H. Emory, Washington, 
1848, Senate Document. 

Notes on the Texas & Pacific Railway (official) ; Philadelphia, 1873. 

Noticias de la Nueva California, bv Padre Francisco Palou; Historical 
Documents, Tomes VT-VII. 

Old California Days, by James Steele, 1889. 

On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer; the Diary and Ttinerarv of Francisco 
Garces (Missionary Priest), 1775-1776; 1900. 

One Thousand Liars, bv James Edward Friend. 

Our Centennial Memoirs, by P. J. Thomas, San Francisco. 

Our Italy, by Charles Dudley W^arner, 1891. 

Out West Magazine. 

Overland Monthly. 

Personal Narrative of Explorations and Incidents in Texas, New Mex- 
ico, California, etc., by John Russell Bartlett; New York and Lon- 
don, 1854. 

Phoenixiana, by Lieut. George H. Derby. 

Picturesque San Diego, by Douglas Gunn, 1887. 

Popular Tribunals, by H. H. Bancroft. 



LIST OF PUBLICATIONS CONSULTED 9 

Bamona, by Helen Hunt Jackson. 

BecoUections of Pioneer Work in California, by Bev. James Woods, 1878. 

Beguiations for the Government of the Provinces of California, by 

Governor Felipe de Neve; 8an Carlos, 1779. 
Belacion de la Vida del Junipero Serra, by Padre Francisco Palou; Mex- 
ico, 1787. 
Beport of Survey for the Southern Pacific B. B., by A. B. Gray, 1854. 
Beport of U. S. Geographical Surveys West of the 100th Meridian; 

Vol. VII, Archeology, 1879. 
Report of Viceroy Rcvilla Sigedo on California, 1768-1793 (Reprint in 

Out West Magazine). 
Resources of California, by Hittell, 1879. 
Bhymes of the Missions, by Will H. Holcomb. 

Bomance of the Age, or the Discovery of Gold in California, by Ed- 
ward E. Dunbar, 1867. 
San Diego and Southern California; Chamber of Commerce, 1870. 
San Diego City and County; Chamber of Commerce, 1888. 
San Diego County, California; Chamber of Commerce, 1890. 
San Diego County Illustrated; W. W. Elliott & Co., San Francisco, 1883. 
San Diego Publications: 

Bulletin. 

Golden Era. 

Herald, 1851-1860. 

San Diegan. 

San Diegan-Sun. 

Silver Gate. 

Sun. 

Union. 
Seeking the Golden Fleece, by J. D. B. Stillman, 1877. 
Semi-Tropical California, by Major Ben C. Truman, 1874. 
Serra. Life of the Venerable Padre Junipero, by Ver\' Rev. Francis 

Palou, translated by Very Rev. J. Adam: San Francisco, 1884. 
Sixteen Months at the Gold Diggings, by Daniel B. Woods, 1851. 
Sixtv Years in Southern California, bv William Heath Davis, 1889. 
Southern California, by Douglas Gunn, 1886. 
Southern California, by T. S. Van Dyke, 1886. 
Southern California Guide I^ok: George E. Place k Co., Los Angeles, 

1886. 
Southern California Illustrated, by S. L. Welch; Warner Bros., Los 

Angeles, 1886-7, 1887-8. 
Spanish America, by B. H. Bonnycastle, Captain in the Corps of Boy- 

al Engineers; Ijondon, 1818. 2 vols. 
Spanish Institutions of the Southwest, by Prof. Frank W. Blackmar 

(Johns Hopkins Series of Historical Studies), 1891. 
Stockton. Commodore Bobert F., Life of; Xew York, 1856. 
Story of San Diego, by Walter Gifford Smith, 1892. 
Texas & Pacific Railwav; Route, Progress. Land Grants, etc.; New 

York. 1872. 
The Golden State and Its Resources, by John J. Powell, 1S74. 
The Italy of America: Chamber of Commerce. 18 — . 

The Land of Gold, or Three Years in California, by Bev. Walter Col- 
ton. 1866. 
The Spanish Press of California riS33-44). by Bobert E. Cowan rin 

Overland Monthly). 
The Squatter and the Don. by C. Loyal: San Francisco, 18S5. 
Tour of Dutv in California, bv .Tos. W. Revere 
Two Years Befor** tb<» Mast, bv Richard Hfnrv Dana. Jr. 



10 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Viajje dc la Expedicion de Terra de San Diego de Monterey, by Padre 
Juan Crespi; Documentary History of Mexico, Tome VI. 

Voyage of Discovery to the Pacific Ocean, by George Vancouver, 
London, 1798. 



Li^ of Illustrations 

Page 
Frontispiece, Father Junipero Serra, from Douglas Tilden'a SStatuc 

Medallion given an Indian Girl by Father Serra 24 

Ship of Cabrillo's Time 29 

Juan Rodriqnez Cabrillo 30 

San Diego de Alcala 32 

( arlos III 38 

Facsimile of the Title Page of the Costanso 41 

Father Junipero Serra 44 

I'acsimile of a page from the Diary of Father Serra 46 

Famous Palms of Old Town 50 

Statue of Father Serra at Monterey n5 

The Ohi Mission Dam ' 62 

Old Mission of San Diego de Alcala 67 

Mission Relics 69 

Kuin of San Diego Mission 74 

Rough Plan of Presidio Hill 83 

IVesidio Hill of Todav 86 

Old r'annon, '*E1 Capitan/' and "El Nino" 91 

Burial of James O. Pattie on Presidio Hill 93 

Judge Witherby's Ohair 94 

Richard Henrv Dana 102 

William Heath Davis 108 

Pio Pico 115 

Aquirre House, Old Town 118 

Augustin V. Zamorano 120 

Serrano House. Old Town 122 

Capt. Henry D. Fitch 124 

Juan Bandini 126 

Machado House, Old Town 132 

Kstudilio House. Old Town 133 

Old San Diego in 1846 146 

Bandini House, Old Town 150 

Wrightington House, Old Town 155 

Mrs. Henrv D. Fitch 159 

Viow of Old San Diego 181 

Col. Warner of Warner's Ranch 188 

Col. J. Bankhead Magruder 193 

Robert D. Israel 196 

Capt. Samuel F. Dupont 201 

Mrs. Arcadia de Baker 203 

Miguel de Pedrorena 205 

Santiago E. Arguello 207 

Commodore Robert F. Stockton 211 

Lieut. Edward F. Beale 215 

Sketch of the actions fought at San Pasqual 217 

Ruins of Fort Stockton on the Hill above Old Town 221 

Oen. A ndres Pico 225 

Oen. Stephen W. Kearny 226 

Jose Guadalupe Estudillo 239 

Jose Antonio Altamirano 240 

George A. Pendleton 's House, Old Town 242 

Present Appearance of House in Old Town where Richard Henry 

Dana took dinner with R. E. Dovle in 1859 245 

Alfred C. Robinson ' 246 



12 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Page 

liicliard .1. Cleveland 247 

Mrs. Carson 251 

House of John C. Stewart, Old Town 252 

House and Store of Thomas Whaley, Old Town 253 

John G. Capron 255 

Old Town School 256 

The Famous Bells at the Old Town Church 257 

Louis Rose 258 

House of Albert B. Smith, Old Town 259 

Lopez House, Old Town 260 

View of Old Town in 1906 261 

Remains of Old Jail at Old Town 262 

Jose Antonio Serrano 263 

Philip Crosthwaite 271 

*'Squire*' Ensworth 275 

D. B. Kurtz 278 

Ephraim W. Morse 283 

Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Whaley 291 

James McCov 279 

William H. iSToves 301 

Lieutenant George H. Derby 313 

"The Hermitage'' * 319 

Charles P. Noell 321 

George A. Pendleton 332 

Alonzo E. Horton, as he appeared in 1867 334 

** Father" Horton in his ninety-fourth year 335 

Capt. S. S. Dunnells ' " 338 

Dunnells' Hotel, corner State and F Streets 330 

Comer of Fifth and D Streets, in 1872 ' 341 

Joseph S. Mannasse 348 

James , W. Robinson 355 

Thomas L. Nesmith 359 

Thomas A. Scott 364 

San Diego in 1872 367 

The Horton House, 1870-1905 370 

View of San Diego in 1873 373 

Fifth and B Streets in 1875 377 

North Side of K Street in the early '70^8 378 

Comer of Seventh and A Streets in 1875 380 

Looking up Fihh Street from K, about 1875 381 

View Taken from First and C Streets, about 1875 384 

Gordon & Hazzard *s Store 385 

Frank A. Kimball 395 

D. O. McCarthy 402 

M. A. Luce 403 

Warren C. Kimball 409 

Tlieodore S. Van Dyke 415 

Hotel del Coronado, during Construction 417 

Pierce-Morse Block 420 

Horton Building 422 

The old Marston Store at Fifth and F Streets 423 

Court House as it Originally Appeared 425 

Steamer Santa Rosa 426 

Captain E. Alexander . . ; 427 

Robert W. Waterman 429 

View of the City from Eighth and A Streets in 1888 430 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 13 

Page 

First Band in San Biego, organized in 1878 431 

Waldo S. Waterman 440 

Dedication of the San Diego Flume 447 

Sweetwater Dam in Coul'se of Construction 448 

E. S. Babcock 449 

C. S. Alverson 450 

D. Choate 456 

Jesse Gillmore 457 

H. C. Gordon 457 

Geo. W. Bowler 457 

G. C. Arnold 457 

''Bum" 463 

Douglas Gunn 465 

William W. Bowers 466 

Mathew Sherman 467 

D. C. Reed 468 

A. E. Nutt 469 

D. L. Withington 469 

M. L. Ward 469 

L. A. Wright 469 

Frank P. Frary 470 

Captain John L. Sehon 471 

John F. Forward 472 

Archie F. Crowell 473 

Claude Woolman 473 

Charles Kellv 473 

F. J. Goldkamp 473 

Eugene E. Shaffer 474 

John H. Ferry 475 

Lewis R. Kirbv 475 

M. M. Moultoii 475 

W. H. Francis 475 

Charles S. Hardy 477 

Wm. Jeff. Gatewood 481 

J. X. Briseno 482 

Edward W. Bushyhead 483 

Office of the Union 485 

John R. Berry 486 

James Macmullen 487 

Edmund F. Parmalee 487 

William H. Gould 488 

Major Ben C. Truman 489 

Joseph D. Lynch 489 

Jacob M. Julian 490 

W. H. Porterfield 492 

Walter T. Blake 493 

F. D. Waite 493 

Harr Wagner 495 

Madge Morris (Mrs. Wagner) 495 

Walter Giflford Smith 497 

Rose Hartwick Thorpe 498 

Will H. Holcomb 499 

The ' ' Bennington " 504 

Louis J. Wilde 507 

D. C. Collier 508 

Ralph Granger 509 



14 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Page 

K. Bartlctt Webster 510 

IT. S. Grant, Jr 511 

M. W. Folsom 512 

0. W. Cotton 512 

Ed Fletcher 513 

Frank A. Salmons 513 

L. L. Boone 514 

Henrv Timkin 515 

Charles L. Warfield 516 

F. L. Hieatt 516 

Arthur Cosgrove 517 

M. Hall 517 

Charles L. Josselyn 518 

1. Isaac Irwin 518 

E. Strahlmann 519 

August Sensenbrenner 519 

J. P. Haddock 519 

Melville Klauber 519 

IT. S. Grant Hotel in Course of Construction 520 

E. J. Carter 521 

Grant Conard 521 

I. D. Rogers 521 

E. J. Swayne 521 

Marco Bruschi 523 

A. Klauber i 523 

Levis Brinton 's House 524 

Mrs. Mitchell 's House 525 

The Steele Block 527 

Glimpse of South Park 528 

Front Page of TTnion of December 14. 1906 529 

John D. Spreckels 531 

G . A. D 'Hemecourt 533 

Father Antonio D. Ubach 538 

Father Ubach ^s funeral 539 

First Church building in New San Diego 541 

Daniel Cleveland 542 

Rev. Sidney Wilbur 543 

Henrv B. Restarick 545 

Rev. Charles L. Barnes 545 

First Methodist Church 547 

First Free Methodist Church 549 

Old Baptist Church 551 

First Baptist Church 552 

Rev. W. B. Hinson 553 

Old Presbyterian Church 554 

Rev. R. G. Wallace 555 

Rev. S. J. Shaw 555 

Rev. E. R. Watson 557 

First Congregational Church 559 

Rev. W. E. Crabtree 561 

New Home of the Y. M. C. A 565 

Floral tribute on Father Ubach *s grave 567 

Duncan Mackinnon 572 

Middletown School 573 

B Street School 574 

Sherman School 575 



UST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 15 

Pace 

Lofcan Heights School gyjj 

>'ranktin School 57g 

w. R. o.iy ;;.:;:::;;:::;::;;;: 579 

State Xomial School 580 

Oliver S. Witherbv .'.....'...'. 5Si 

Benjamin Hajes '. ', 585 

AV. T. MeNeaiy , 586 

Levi Chasp 587 

Norman H. Conklin '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 58S 

E. 8. Torrance 589 

Georjte i'nterbaiigh 590 

W. E. AnilrewB 591 

Henn- E. Mills 594 

W. A. Slnane 594 

S. S. Knolcs 594 

E. W. Hendrick 594 

H. "E. Doolittic 595 

Patterann Spriffg 595 

Sam. Ferry Smith 5i»5 

Engene Daney 595 

County ('oiirt IIous^ 597 

Dr. Davi.l B. Hoffman 599 

Dr. John S. (iriffln 60rt 

Dr. "Rnliert .1 Ureeg ft02 

Dr. Thomas C. Stoclitnu 603 

Dr. P. r. Rpnion<1ino 604 

Dr. Freil Baker 605 

Dr. P. J. Parker 605 

Dr. A. J. Elliott 605 

Dr. Joseph C. Hearne 605 

Dr. Davi.l Goehenaner 606 

Dr. r. f •. Valle 607 

Biiil'ling used by Drs. Stockton and Bemondino as a Sanitariiim. . .. 608 

Conntv Hotipitai 809 

Public I>ibrary 611 

George W. Marstou 618 

Georije Ponke 630 

Torrev Pines 623 

W. L. Prevert 627 

George H, Ballon 637 

Homer H. Peters 639 

H. P. Wood 630 

■Tames A. Jasper f(30 

Philip Morse 631 

Simon Levi 631 

J, S. Akerman 631 

Dr Edward Grove 631 

Bank San Diego 6.18 

Commereial Bank of San Diego 639 

Oeorge W. Fishhnrn 640 

J. W. Seftoo 64! 

flaluaha "B. Grow 643 

M. T. Qilmorc 644 

Fred Jewell 644 

A. Blochman 644 

T.. A. Bloi-hmon 644 



16 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Page 

Julius Wangenheini 645 

W. R. Rogers 645 

Charles L. Williams 645 

G. Aubrey Davidson 645 

Carl Alex. Johnson 646 

W. H. Hubbard 646 

Thos. R. Darnall 652 

E. T. Blackmer 656 

Col. R. V. Dodge 658 

John B. Osborn 659 

Herbert A. Croghan 663 

A. B. Cairnes 667 

Richard A. Shute 669 

Ford A. Carpenter 676 

Rain Map of California 677 

Rainfall Chart of San Diego County 678 

Point Loma and the Silver Gate 690 

Battleships in the Harbor 692 

La Playa, showing Quarantine Station, etc 698 

Lighthouse on Ballast Point 699 

Old Government Barracks 700 

Coronado Tent Citv 708 

Automobile Track at Lakeside 710 

C. D. Rolfe 711 

View of La Jolla 712 

Katherine Tingley 716 




AUTHOR'S FOREWORD 

N \VRITIN(i this book I have kept several ob- 
jects prominently in mind. First of all, I 
have aimed to make a faithful collection of 
all essential faet^s pertaining to the history of 
San DiesTo, from the dav of its discovery bv 
Europeans down to the time in which we are 
livinjr. To this end, public records have been 
examined ; scores of volumes of historv, bi- 
ography, reminiscence, even of fiction, have been studied; news- 
paper iiles have been patiently searched ; and living pioueei's have 
been interviewed by stenographers. In this hunt for information 
I have constantly employed one exceedingly competent assistant 
and, for nnich of the time, two or three othei^s. As a result, 
materials have been collected in <\xc(?ss of my ability to use 
them in this volume, but they will be preserved in some public 
place for the benefit of students and of the future historian. 

In the second place, I have endeavored to save from ob- 
livion the rich traditions which cluster about the life of Old 
San Diego, a place which has all but perished from the earth, 
yet which should ever possess an absorbing interest not only 
for those who dwell about the shores of San Diego Bay, but for 
all students of American historv. Plymouth, Massachusetts, is 
a place of no great modern importance, yet it is one of the 
shrines of the Atnerican people and the traditions of its set- 
tlement and growth in the quiet years of the seventeenth cen- 
tury have been written again and again, arid will be read with 
fascinated interest by all future generations. Old San Diego 
pos.sesses much the same historical pre-eminence, Imt its claims 
have been neglected by nearly all w^riters of American history, 
including those who prepare text-books for our children. It is, 
therefore, without apology that a large portion of this work is 
devoted to Old Town, including some accouut of the Spanish 
and American families who were associated with its political, 
social and commercial life. My only regret is that an entire 
volume could not be given to this phase of our annals. 

I am keenly aware of the fact that this book contains much 
which will be chiefly valuable for reference purposes. There 
are many things which must be collected and preserved in a 
local history, but which do not lend themselves to literary 



/ 



18 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

treatment nor belong strictly to the narrative which interests 
the general reader. This observation applies to accounts of 
organizations no one of which includes more than a small part 
of the community, yet each of which has its own peculiar 
public. It should be remembered also that the web of our 
history is woven of many separate threads, and that none of 
these is without influence in making the color and substance 
of the whole fabric. In the department of the work entitled, 
** Institutions of Civic Life,'' the reader will find many of the 
most significant facts of our progress as a community. 

Acknowledginents are due to many persons for assistance 
rendered in assembling the facts for this book. The late E. W. 
Morse was extremely helpful, and the last days of his life 
were given freely to lengthy interviews and the explanation of 
old documents. ''Father'' Horton patiently submitted to 
cross-examination on several occasions, furnishing impressions 
of his own period which might otherwise have been lost. Judge 
M. A. Luce and Daniel Cleveland have been constantly con- 
sulted and have rendered invaluable assistance, with the ut- 
most patience and courtesy. To E. F. Parmelee, business 
manager of the San Diego Union, apologies are due, as well 
as sincere thanks, for he allowed his office to be cumbered for 
weeks at a time with desk and typewriter while the newspaper 
files were being searched in the interest of this work. Mrs. 
Davison, Librarian of the San Diego Public Library, the author- 
ities of the University Librarv, at Berkelev, and the State 
Librarian at Sacramento, co-operated in securing rare volumes 
needed for consultation. To these, and to many other persons, 
who helped in various ways, and especially to living pioneers 
who supplied recollections of men and events (their names 
are mentioned in connection with their stories in the text), the 
author's warmest thanks are tendered. 

The project of writing this work originated not with me, but 
with Nathan Watts, who has long felt a deep interest in our 
local history and w^ho has been strongly impressed wnth the im- 
portance of collecting and preserving authentic records of the 
past, and especially the recollections of old settlers, while it was 
yet possible to do so. Mr. Watts has been the constant friend 
of the enterprise, and is entitled to a very large share of any 
credit that may be due for the performance. 

It is also with much pleasure that I acknowledge my indebt- 
edness to my chief assistant in the preparation of this volume, 
Millard F. Hudson. An indefatigable scholar and worker, 
the book could not have been produced at this time, nor at any 
time with the degree of thoroughness with which I am sure it 
has been done, without the assistance derived from his enthu- 
siasm, intelligence, and devotion. Much of the narrative portion 



AUTHOR'S FOREWORD 19 

of the work stands substantially as he prepared it in his full 
notes of interviews and abstracts from documents and other 
authoritative sources. This being so, he is to be regarded as 
joint-author of the work. 

Finally, grateful acknowledgment must be made to nearly 
one hundred prominent citizens whose generosity and civic 
pride prompted them to subscribe various sums toward a pub- 
lication fund. It was realized at the beginning that the pro- 
duction of a volume entailing an expenditure of several 
thousand dollars, and wholly devoid of **paid biographies" 
and commercial ** write-ups, ' ' could not be hazarded on the 
prospects of sales within a limited field. The financial problem 
was solved by subscriptions for books at prices in excess of the 
publisher's rate to the public. These prices are of various 
amounts voluntarily fixed by the subscribers, but sufficient in 
the aggregate to reduce the risk of publication to a point where 
it becomes feasible. Nothing in the book is influenced in the 
slightest degree by pecuniary considerations. No one has 
been included in text or illustration because he subscribed to 
the publication fund, nor has any one been omitted because he 
failed to do so. The effort has been to produce real history and 
real literature, and to measure men and events by no other 
standard. 

Writing the book in the course of my profession as a literary 
man, it has yet been largely a labor of love, and I hope it 
may be regarded in the future as a service to a people who have 
honored me with constant evidences of their friendship, and 
even as a modest memorial to my citizenship among them. 

William E. Smythe. 
San Diego, California, 

January' 1, 1907. 




INTRODUCTION 

THE HISTORICAL PRE-EMINENCE OF SAN DIEGO 

HE CIVILIZATION of California, and of the 
whole Western Coast now belon<i^ing to the 
United States, bei^an on the shores of San 
Diego Bay. What Plymouth is to New Eng- 
land and the region facing the Atlantic, San 
Diego is to the great empire which faces the 
Pacific. 

This fact is not appreciated as it deserves 
to be by readei-s of history generally, nor by the people of Cal- 
ifornia, nor even by the i)eople of San Diego. Here by the 
Southwestern (iateway of the Republic should be one of the 
great shrines ot historical America, where pilgrims should come 
by thousands to pay homage to the past, and where monuments 
should ])e erected In' this generation, to be bequeathed to the 
keeping of generations yet to come. 

Plymouth and San Diego ! Each the scene of the first en- 
during settlement on its own side of the continent; each the off- 
si^ring of religious zeal ; each i)lanted by those who, building 
better than they knew, became the pioneers of a movement which 
contributed immeasura])lv to the betterment of mankind; and 
each showing the way for millions to carve homes from the 
wilderness — the o!ie ])v clearing the forest, the other bv irri- 
gating the desert! 

Nor is this the whole of San Diego's claim to everlasting dis- 
tinction in human history. Not only was it the birthplace of 
civilization on the Pacific Coast of the United States, but it was 
also the scene of the first discovery of that coast by the Spanish 
explorers of the Sixteenth Century. Thus it happened that 
the first European footprint w^as indelibly impressed on the 
shores of San Diego Bay. Surely, there is no other spot so 
I)recious in the entire continental exi)anse from Plymouth Rock 
to l\)int Loma ! This leads me to ask if there is any logical 
relation between the history of such a city and its future growth. 
It is unquestionably true that mere priority of settlement, 
even w^hen this ])riority is a matter of large historical conse- 
(pience, doi^ not guarantee the growth, nor even the permanence, 
of a community. Jamestown in Virginia, where English-speak- 
ing men first built their homes in America, long since perished 



22 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

from the earth, leaving barely enough ruins to mark the site. 
Kvtin at Plymouth, where the community has enjoyed a vigorous 
and continuous existence since 1620, there was a population of 
h»MH than ten thousand, according to the census of 1900. On 
th<» other hand, the metropolis of New England has grown up 
where John Winthrop colonized his English followers in 1630, 
and the metropolis of the nation has developed where the Dutch 
founded New Amsterdam in 1623. 

There can be little question that priority of settlement and 
its resulting historical pre-eminence are assets of extraordinary 
value when joined to the possession of great natural advan- 
tages. There was no gof>d reason why Plymouth should become* 
a large city, for neither agriculture, commerce, nor manufac- 
tures belonged to it by natural right. Jamestown was destroyed 
in the so-called Bacon's Rebellion of 1676, and never afterwards 
rebuilt, because there were much better locations elsewhere. 
But Boston and New York enjoyed strategic locations and were 
thus able to reap the benefits of their early settlement and the 
fame which it brought them. It is to the latter class that San 
Diego belongs. Hence, its historical pre-eminence ought to 
count heavily as a factor in its future growth and ultimate 
greatness. 

Western cities do not patiently await the slow accretions of 
time. They reckon in decades where the older cities of the East 
measure their growth by centuries. Their effort at advancement 
takes the form of fierce competition among themselves in seek- 
ing to attract the attention of the outside world as a means 
of reinforcing their capital and recruiting their citizenship. 
In California, this competition is more conspicuously in evi- 
dence than anywhere else in the United States. San Diego, 
alone, can challenge the attention of the world by saying: 

Here came the Spanish discoverer to behold for the first time 
the Pacific Coast of what is now the United States. Here, too, 
is the Plymouth of the Westy where the European first built his 
home and reared the Cross. Here was the first town, the first 
irrigation ditch, the first cultivated field, the first school, and 
the first of those historic missions which ushered in the Christian 
era in California. And here we are building a mighty city as 
an everlasting monument to the Pilgrim Fathers of the West. 

If the publication of this work could be attended by a result 
above all others gratifying to me, it would i\x the historical pre- 
eminence of San Diego as firmly and clearly in the public mind 
as the historical pre-eminence of Plymouth has been established 
for many generations by its faithful historians. And if it could 
produce a further result in line with this, it would inspire the 
people of San Diego to the preservation of all the precious 
landmarks of the earlv time and the creation of enduring 



HISTORICAL PRE-EMINENCE 23 

memorials worthy of their history. With the rise of the city to 
a place of commandin*^ influence in the new world of the Pacific, 
and the dawn of a new era in the development of the vast region 
which traces the beginnings of its history to this spot, the time 
has come when San Diego can no longer afford to be careless 
of its past, any more than it can afford to neglect its future. 
And it is quite undeniable that San Diego has been careless of 
its past. Not only so, but it has tamely acquiesced in similar 
carelessness on the part of thase whase business it is to record 
the truth of history and to preserve the priceless evidences of 
civilized man's earliest dcmiinion on these shores. 

p]ven the name of Cabrillo is but little known'* to American 
school children, still less to general readers. What is yet more 
strange, the name of this historic man is neglected by the com- 
pilers of encyclopedias and biographical dictionaries. You 
may consult standard works of reference wdthout discovering 
the man who discovered California. Sir Francis Drake has 
been more fortunate and reaped a larger renown for a perform- 
ance of less value, as historical values are usually reckoned. 
San Diego owes it to its own fame, as well as to Cabrillo 's, to 
celebrate the achievement of the pioneer navigator and to erect 
a splendid memorial in his honor. As Farragut stands guard 
in Madison Square, and as Colonel Shaw^ yet marches among 
his men in St. Gaudens' noble monument fronting the Boston 
State House, so Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo should look upon the 
faces of passing generations of Californians in one of the pub- 
lic places of San Diego. 

The Old Presidio Hill, overlooking Old Tow^n, should be per- 
petually preserved and made the object of sacred and loving 
care, for upon that hill the first home and the first church 
were builded, and there the music of the mission bell first broke 
the silence. 

The hand of decay, now lyins: so heavily upon the Mission 
establishment which dominated San Diego and its surroundings 
for seventy years, should be sharply arrested, for the complete 
obliteration of that eloquent ruin is unthinkable to men and 
women who have any reverence for the past. 

The battle-field of San Pasqual should be marked in some 
appropriate way; and there are a score of other simple acts 
which should be performed by a people w^ho stand between the 
past and the future and whose obligations extend to both. 

Most important and beautiful of all, at some sightly noiiit in 
the great park, a noble monument should be reared by Protest- 
ant hands to the memory of the Catholic Fathers. 

Through these pages, I trust it is given me to speak not only 
to a present citizenship, but to a future citizenship who shall 
hereafter dwell upon the sunny slopes of San Diego and come 



24 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

into a grout heritHj:!' of moumrios niul aetiicv(.-ment. Ami to 
tbc nit^ii iuid u'oiiK'ti of a later tiiti<-, »» to tliosu of tixlay. f 
would say: Guard wdl the City's fame, and the fame of the 
men whose toils and saerifiees yave it birth. 




PART FIRST 
Period of Discovery and Mission Rule 




THE SPANISH EXPLORERS 

■^TAXD upon the heit;litH iit the siiuny afternoon 
and turn your eyi-s to the dazzling waste of 
watera, and, with the slightest exereise of 
imagination, you may see them yet— those 
tjpanish ships that crept up the coast, then 
headed for the Silver Gate, in September, 
1542. Quaint craft they were, with their round 
bows and square stems aud their poop decks 
rising in the air, ho that they seemed about as high as they were 
long. Although small when compared with the standards of 
today — only three or four hundred tons — there was a certain 
grandeur about them which does not attach to the modern liner. 
Hoiiiehow, they suggested the poverty-stricken Spanish gentlt^- 
man who manages to keep his pomp and pride on an empty 
stomach. For there were paint and gold, carvings and embla- 
zonry of armorial bearings, but there was probably very little 
to eat, especially in the forecastle. 

It is a marvel that they could make long voyages in those 
days. The ships were clumsy, hard to handle, capable of carry- 
ing but a small spread of canvas in anything approaching a 
strong breeze, and sailed sidewise almost as well as forward. 
They seemed to invite every peril that goes with the sea. Be- 
sides, the lack of condensed foods, of facilities for refrigera- 
tion, and of sanitary knowledge, entailed hardship and 
privation upon those who set out upon long voyages into 
regions of the earth but vaguely known. It is little wonder that 
sailors died like flies from causes which were comprehensively 
characterized as scurvy, though in many cases the trouble was 
simply starvation. And yet those two .ships which had pitched 
and rolled along their uncertain way from Mexico made a brave 
sight as they swept in upon the smooth waters of San Diego 
Bay and dropped their anchors under the shelter of Point 
Loma. They were the first ships that ever rested on those 
waters — the San Salvador and the Victoria — and a new era 
had dawned upon the world of the Pacific when Juan Rodriquex 
Cahrillo, a Portuguese navigator in the service of Spain, 
looked up and down the bay, around the encircling shores, and 



28 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

theu to the hills and mountains that nuike the noble back- 
i^round. 

It was the last act in the ^reat drama of Spanish discovery 
which beg:an with Columbus fifty years before. A train of 
events in which he had no part made Cabrillo the sUit per- 
former and placed in his hand the laurel of lasting renow^n. 
Hernando Cortes had set his heart on exploring the mysterious 
land which lay to the north of Mexico and was popularly 
believed to be India. lie had expected that this would be 
the ci'owning glory of his career, but Charles V. was unwilling 
to see the fijjure of (V)rtes grow larger, lest he should set up 
an empire of his own and divide the glory of Spain. Thus it 
happened that Mendoza was made Viceroy of the Spanish pos- 
sessions in the New World and Cortes returned to complain to 
the King. He never snw New Spain again, and his dream of 
northern exploration vanished forever. 

One of his former lieutenants, Pedro de Alvarado, had 
cherished the same ambition <ind proceeded to build ships as 
a means of carrying it into effect. He was in favor with the 
court and w-ith Mendoza, and thus enabled to proceed with his 
plans. But Fate did not intend that Alvarado should realize 
the dream of Cortes and become the discoverer of a northern 
realm. He was drawn into a war with the Mixton Indians in 
Mexico and killed while assaulting one of their strongholds. 
Thus it happened that Cabrillo sailed northward from Nativ- 
idad, Mexico, on June 17, 1542, on the long-deferred voyage of 
discovery. 

Fortunate, indeed, is the discoverer in the quality of his 
fame. The achievement of the soldier, of the scholar, of the 
statesman, of the founder of institutions may be surpassed in 
subsequent times and relegated to comi)arative obscurity by 
those who achieve even more greatly; but the claim of the dis- 
coverer cannot be superseded. His distinction endures with 
the lands he brought to light and gains with their growth 
through the centuries. California is yet in its infancy, so that 
it may be said that the day of Cabrillo \s greatest glory will 
come in the future. 

The historic sailor knew a good harbor when he saw it and 
was the first of a long line of mariners to realize that the bay 
of San Diego is a spot favored l)y nature and destined for 
great things. '*A land-locked and very good harbor,'' he 
called it, and gave it the name of San Miguel. On the very 
day of his arrival, Ik* sent a small boat *^ farther into the port, 
which was large.'' While it was anchored '^a very great gale 
blew from the southwest," ])ut this did not disturb the boat 
and its occupants. ''The port being good, we felt nothing," 
says the narrative, which is only too meager. 



CABRILLO AND THE INDIANS 




The explorer sent a party ashore to replenish his supply of 
water. They landed on Point Ijoma and followed the river 
channel until they found a pool. It was the driest season of 
the yciir, and then, as now, the San Diego Hivor was a little 
short of water at that season. It wtm late in the day when the 
party set out, and (hirk when they started to return. Tlii-y 
chaneed upon the shoivs of False Bay and looked in vain for 
the ships. The mistake was natural enontrh under the eireuni- 
Htances. and the traveller who approaches the city by rail 
generally falls into the same err()r of mistaking False Bay for 
the true bay of San Die<;o when he catches his fii-st glimpse 
of the country. Thu sailors eamju'd for the nifrht, but were 
found early thu next morning by another jMirty and guided 
bnek to the ships. 

It was not long before the Indian inhabitants liiseovcred the 
presence of the strangers. Word of the p.\traordinary <;vent 
must have passed rapidly from month to mouth, and doubtless 



30 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

till! story iif it wjis hiiiideil ilinvri fnnii fitther to son f{>r many 
a long year. In the account of the voyage written by one of 
Cnbrillo's eompanioiiH, and translated and published by the 
Government in a report of the United States Geographic Sur- 
veys in 1879, this interesting statement appears: 

And the followiDg day, in tbe moraing, tbere eame to the ship 
three large ladians, and hy aigae thpy said that there were 
traveling in the intprioT men like ua, nith beards, and clothes 



pSti^ 


ISA 


^^ 


^^^S^ 



JUAM RODaiCJUEZ CABRILLO 

Who diicovered the Bur of San Diwo in Septonbsr, 1M2. and Snt expkmd Che coaM of 

CiJIfomla 

end armed like tbose of the ships, and they made signs that 
they carried pross-bows and swords, and made gestures with 
the right arm as if they were throwing laucea, awl went run- 
ing in h jHislnre as if riding on horseback, and made signs 
that they killed many of the native Indians, and that for 
this they were afraid. This people are well disposed and ad- 
vanced; they ^0 covered with the skins of animals. 

Cabrillo remained but sis days in the bay with which his 
name will be forever associated lie took observations with 
such imperfect instruments as he had and located the place 



THE SECOND EXPLORER 31 

in latitude 34"^ 20' North. (The true latitude is, of course, 
32° 41' 57.6".) This mistake led to some embarrassment in 
later times when other navigators tried to find the harbor by 
means of Cabrillo's notes. The discoverer sailed away for the 
North, where he died four months later, or January 3, 1543, 
in consequence of a fall on an island which his companions 
named in his honor, *'Juan Rodriquez.'^ With his last words, 
he directed his party to j^o forward with the original plan of 
exploration. His grave has never been identified, but it is 
interesting to reflect that his dust is mingled with the soil 
which he discovered. 

The accounts of Cabrillo's achievement slowly percolated to 
Spain by way of Mexico, but if they produced any excitement 
it was successfully restrained for a period of nearly two genera- 
tions. In these days, when the news of a fresh mineral discovery 
sends thousands rushing into the desert on automobiles, or to 
the frozen wastes of the Far North in swift steamships, it would 
seem that human nature in the Sixteenth Century must have 
been different if it could receive the news of the discovery of 
a land like California without feeling an irresistible impulse of 
adventure. The difference, however, was not one of human 
nature, but of facilities for spreading information and for 
transporting men and supplies across distances relatively 
greater than any now known in all the spaces of the world. 
The development of new countries waits upon events. Not in 
that time did events call for the utilization of the resources of 
the Pacific. Fortunately, nature provides an ample margin 
of resources for the needs of successive generations. When 
there are no more lands to be discovered, the genius of dis- 
covery seeks other channels of expression, and men find new 
and better ways in which to use lands already in their posses- 
sion. The discoverer is with us yet, and he will be with those 
who come after us; but he explores the realms of science, or 
makes his perilous way to new continents of thought, and so 
he widens man's dominion of the universe. 

It was exactly sixty years before the ships of civilization 
again appeared off the coast of Southern California. Charles 
V. passed away without any serious attempt to colonize and 
develop the region, but during the reign of his son and suc- 
cessor, Philip II., the possibilities of the peninsula of Lower 
California, and of the northern regions known as Alta Cali- 
fornia, were much in the royal mind. It is easy to understand 
why nothing was accomplished. Philip, busy with his European 
politics and with the terrors of the Inquisition, had neither time 
nor money to expend upon the conquest of the wilderness. 
Such efforts as were made came to nothing, but when, in 1598, 
a merciful providence removed the royal fanatic from his blood- 



32 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

stained throne, I'liiiip III. immediately took steps to improve 
the Spanish possessions of what is now the Pacific Coast of 
the United States. 

Don Sebastian Viseaino was chosen as Captain-General of the 
expedition and sailed on Jlay 5, 1602, from the port of 
Aeapulco, with two ships and a frigrate, together with a small 
vessel to lie used in expioi'insj shallow waters. He was aeeom- 
panied by three religious Carmelites, one of whom. Friar 




Antonio di- la Aseension, iK-canie the .journalist of the expedi- 
tion and wrote an aeeount of the voyagf, which extended to the 
northern coast of California. 

Viseaino pursued his h'isurely course northward, stopping; at 
several points in Lower California, and found himself at the 
picturesiiue islands which rise abruptly from the sea olT San 
Diejro on NovcmhiT fi. I(i02, precisely six months after leaving 
Aeapnk'o. He fravc the i.slands the name which they still bear. 
Ihe Coi-onados, It was November 111 when his dccl sailed into 
the harbor which no white man, save Calinllo and his com- 



THE POINT LOMA FOREST 33 

panions, had visited before. A survey of the harbor was im- 
mediately undertaken, for Viscaino was bent on obtaining ex- 
act information as far as it was possible with the facilities at 
his command, and he was able to leave several maps which con- 
stituted a very valuable contribution to the geographical 
knowledge of the time. 

It was he who gave the port its present name, though many 
people suppose that the name originated with the mission which 
was established more than a century and a half later, and others 
suppose it was derived from St. James of the Bible. Because 
his survey was either begun or ended on November 12 — no one 
knows exactly which, though the former seems more probable — 
and because that was the day of Saint James of Alcala (San 
Diego de Alcala) Viscaino gave the port the name of San Diego. 
It would be pleasant to linger on the virtues of this saint, whose 
best monument is the San Diego of today; but space forbids 
the digression. Born in a hamlet of the Archbishopric of Se- 
ville, Spain, in 1400, he died on November 12, 1463, and was 
buried in the chapel of his monastery near Toledo, Spain. His 
sainthood was won by a life of loving service, and may well 
inspire the city which bears his name to lofty effort in behalf 
of humanity. 

On the day after his arrival thd Captain-General organized 
a party to survey a forest lying **()n the Northwest side of the 
Bay," — evidently Point Loma. The party was in charge of 
Ensign Alarcon, and included Captain Pecpiero, Father Antonio 
de la Ascension, and eight soldiers. In this forest they found '*tall 
and straight oaks and other trees, some shrubs resembling rose- 
mary, and a great variety of fragrant and wholesome plants." 
The identity of the spot with Point Loma is further confirmed 
by the report that *'the high ground commanded a view of the 
whole harbor, which appeared spacious, convenient, and well 
sheltered," and by the further statement that **to the North- 
west of the wood is another harbor," which doubtless refers to 
False Bay. The forest is described as bordering on San Diego 
Bay and its dimensions are given as ** three leagues in length 
and half a league in breadth." 

The existence of anything approaching a noble forest on the 
slopes and top of Point Loma in 1602 is a matter of unique 
interest, in view of the fact that nothing of the sort is found 
today. But the story is unquestioned by the oldest settlers: 
indeed, those with whom I have talked confirm it and furnish 
some evidence to sustain the view. Thus Ephraim W. Morsp 
said: 

Many years ago T saw in tlie possession of the late Mr. Ens- 
worth of San Diejjo, a piece of an old book in the Spanish 
language which gave an account of Viscaino 'a visit to, and 



34 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

his survey of, the Bay of Sail Diego in 1602. It had neither 
title-page nor date; consequently I do not know its author. It 
is stated that at the time of Viscaino's visit there was quite 
a large grove of oak trees on the slope of the hill on the 
north side of the bay and flat now known as Roscville, and ex- 
tending around the point towards the North Hay, which is 
now called False Bay, juid that the valley of the San Diego 
Kiver from opposite where Old Town now stands, as far up 
as could be seen from the top of the hill, was a dense wil- 
low grove, and that at high tide the waters of the North and 
8outh Bays met. It further stated that while the bay was 
])eing surveyed, the sailors went up the j)oint of the hill (I 
sup[>ose about where Judge Ko])insoii was buried) and sat 
under the oak trees, and washed and mended their clothes. 



i i 



And Miss j\rar»;aret Macgregor, another old settler, says: 
There is no doubt that Point Loma was covered with trees 
[referring to Viscaino\s time]. There are now old stumps in 
the ground there, charred ))y fire, and the Indians used to dig 
them out for fuel. The Indians said there was once a heavy 
forest there, but that it was destroyed by fire. They were live 
oak stumps. They were not very birge — about the same as the 
other trees on the Point. I would not call it timber. There 
was a good deal of it — the Point was covered with it." 

This testimonv finds vcrv strong corroljoration in the follow- 
ing article published in the San Dkijo Daih/ World. June 12, 
1873 : 

The Gipay yesterday brought into j>ort Captain Bogart. 
In a conversation witli that gentleman some very interesting 
reminiscencfs were develojied. Captain Hognrt first visited 
San Diego in the Blacl: Warrior in 1>534, )>0 yr:irs ;igo. 

In those davs tlie hills about the Plavji, and indeed all around 
San Diego, were covered witli a thick growth of oak, such as 
is found in the .Julian moiuitnins now. This was the case, 
to a very great extent, when Captain Bogart came to San 
Diego in 18.12, as the agent of the Pacific Mail S. S. Co. 

He ascribes tlie destruction of this timber to its liberal use 
]>y the native j)opulation, and by the crews of vessels trading 
for hides, in their tanning operations. 

lie can remember tlie time when the whole flat, where the 
race-course is, was cov< red witli a dense willow growtli. His 
memory also goes back to the davs when Rose's Canvon, clear 
to Captain Johnson's, at Penasquitas, was covered with a 
■liberal forest growth. The tanning operations of the vener- 
able Mr. Rose are responsible for much of this disappearance 
of timber. We asktd Captain Bogart how he accounted for 
the fact that there were no reminders of the forest growth 
at the r*laya. He replied that he had occasion to cut a road to 
the Playa once, and came a<*ross many stumps. Captain Bo- 
gart 's accounts agree with the narratives of the old Mission- 
aries, who say that when thev came lure, nearly a hundred 
years ago, the site of San Diego was covered witli a forest. 

Andrew Cassidy thinks there is no doubt thnt Point Loma 
was once quite heavily wooded, but is of the opinion that the 



THE FIRST "BOOMERS" 35 

Spauiards exaggerated the size of the trees. This is probably 
the ease, for tlie early tales of their explorations are notoriously 
full of sueii exaggeration. The disappearance of the forest in 
the manner described by Captain Bogart, or by fire, is entirely 
probable, and is only another instance of the familiar process 
by which the natural resources of the West have been wasted. 

Viscaino ordered a tent to be pitched on shore for religious 
worship, and then proceeded to clean and tallow his ships. 
His men were also busy getting wood and water, and a few were 
emi)loyed in keeping guard to prevent any sudden attack by 
the natives. They obtained w^ater from **a little island of 
sand," where they dug deep trenches. "During the flood," 
says the account, ''the water w^as fresh and good, but on the 
ebb, salt." 

Viscaino and his men saw much of the Indians during their 
brief stay and found them both interesting and friendly. On 
their first appearance they came in great numbers, armed with 
bows and arrows. For the most part, they were naked, but 
their skins were daubed with black and white. Father Antonio 
went forth to meet them, attended by six soldiers. They 
responded to his overtures for a peaceful conference. Presents 
were distributed by the Spaniards, and the Indians went away 
pleased w^ith the visitors. It is related that ** the kind of 
paint they used looked like a mixture of silver and gold color; 
and on disking them by signs what it wjis, they gave them a 
piece of the metallic ore, from whence they made it." They 
also signified that they had seen men like the Spaniards in the 
interior. In return for the food and trinkets which were given 
them, the Indians left a good many skins of wild animals. 

The explorers were delighted wnth San Diego, and their 
expressions sound much like those of the tourist of today. They 
admired the beauty of the scene and appreciated the remark- 
able climate. Thev declared that the situation offered '*a fine 
site for a Spanish settlement." Of the mineral possibilities 
of the country Father de la Ascension wrote: **In the sands 
of the beach there was a great quantity of marcasite, golden and 
spongy, which is a clear sign that in the mountains round the 
port there are gold-mines, because the waters when it rains 
bring it from the mountains." They also found in the sand 
masses of a gray light substance, which it was thought might 
be amber. Some very heavy blue stones with which, when 
pow^dered and mixed in water, the natives made shining streaks 
on their faces, were thought to be rich in silver. 

But most of all, the visitors were impressed during their ten 
days' stay, with the importance of San Diego as a natural sea- 
port. In their whole voyage they found no more perfect harbor, 
nor any place upon which nature had written more unmistak- 



36 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

ably the prophecy of a great destiny. In fact, it may be truth- 
fully said that Viscaino and his chroniclers were the first San 
Diego ** boomers. ' * And yet for a period of one hundred and 
sixty-seven years after this exploration, which added so richly 
to geographical lore, civilization held aloof from the tempting 
opportunity. For one hundred and sixty-seven yeans — what 
history w^as made elsewhere in that space of time ! — the sun rose 
and set, the seasons came and wxnt, and the ocean roared along 
the shore, while this land, which daring explorers had rescued 
from the unknown, slept in primeval silence. The Indian 
papooses that Father de la Ascension blessed in 1602 grew to 
manhood, and their children and children's children lived and 
passed aw'ay, before the white man came again with sword and 
cross to plant the fir'st seed of institutions which were destined 
to take root and flourish. 




CHAPTER II 

BEGINNING OF THE MISSION EPOCH 

jT WAS in the year 1769 that Spain finally got 
ready to reap where her explorers had sown 
generations before. Carlos III. was King, the 
Marquis de Croix, a man of great energy and 
enterprise, was Vieeroy of New Spain, Don 
Joseph de Galvez was Visitador General. The 
royal order came for oc(»^ipation of the ports 
of San Diego and Monterey. And it was high 
time. Spain could not hope to hold vast territories indefinitely 
by mere right of discovery, and both England and Russia had 
eyes upon the Pacific Coast of North America. It was the 
hitter's aggression which was most feared and which probably 
gave the specific impulse to the new movement. 

It is not, however, the name of king or statesman which 
survives in the popular imagination w^hen the early settlement 
of San Diego, and the coast line which stretches north of it, is 
recalled, but the name of an inunortal missionary. And it is 
a fine tribute to the quality of mind and heart which finds its 
expression in unselfish and loving service that this is so. But 
as I study the records of the past it seems clear enough that it 
was the lust of empire far more than religious zeal which led 
to the pioneer plantings in California. This judgment is no 
reflection on the Missionary Fathers, who simply availed them- 
selves of a favorable political situation to accomplish designs 
unquestionably born of a high conception of duty to God and 
man. But if we seek the motive behind the movement, we find it 
when we ask ourselves the question : If the Spanish King had 
not wanted to hold California for the advantage of his empire, 
would it have been within the power of the Franciscans to 
found a line of missions from San Diego northward, and thus 
to lay the foundation-stones of an enduring civilization? The 
(juestion must be answered in the negative, for the missionaries 
could not have supplied the necc^ssary ships and soldiei's nor 
the other provisions essential to the great undertaking. Put 
the question in another way and ask : If there had been no 
missionaries, and if the Spanish King had still desired to 
occupy the California coast, could he have done so with the men 



38 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

iiiul iiuiiicy lit his ooiiiniiLiul? riiijui'slioiuiliiy. lie cthiIcI; but 
lie wjis \visi.' onoiif-h to utilize the euthusia»iii aiid capacity 
which he found ready to his hand in the shape of the Fran- 
ciscans and who were the more necessary because the Jesuits 
had but recently been expelled from their mission holdings in 
Lower California. 

It is inii>ortant to note the influences which led to the 
founding of San Diego, and it is the simple tnith of history to 
sav that the most vital of these influenees was the need of 




It San Diego, net 



le original Httlcmen 



Spanish statecraft to exert itself in order to hold valuable 
possessions gained in previous centuries by exploration and 
discovery. If this motive had lieen absent, San Diego would 
not have bi-on settled in 17li9. nor perhaps by those who spoke 
the Sjianish tongue. lis history might have been entirely 
differejit. It might have bet-ii settled by Russians, or by 
Englishmen, or it might have slept on until a new nation — 
almost at that hour in travail on the Atlantic Coast of North 
America — sent its pioneers across the plains and monntaina 
to give a new and strange flag to the breeze. 



MOTIVE FOR COLONIZATION 39 

It is true, of course, that for many years the missionaries 
had urged the King to lend his assistance to the conversion 
of the gentiles of the North, and that a Catholic nation like 
Spain, always influenced by the Papacy, would naturally give 
heed to the claims of the faith. But while this was doubtless 
taken into account, it was clearly secondary to considerations 
of empire. Nevertheless, when the time for action came, a 
great man, garbed in the cassock of the priest, stood ready to 
sow the seed of a har\'est which men are now but beginning 
to reap. 

Junipero Serra was fifty-six years old when the opportunity 
came to him. He had been trained from childhood for the 
Avork he was to do. Born on the Mediterranean Island of 
Mallorca, in the humblest circumstances, he was benevolent 
and devout even in his youth and seemed to have had no other 
thought than to do good. He became a Franciscan friar at 
sixteen and the enthusiasm of the boy gradually evolved into 
the burning passion of the man for the salvation of souls. He 
sought the blackest midnight of ignorance that he might spread 
the light of his faith the most widely, and his quest brought 
him to the North American Indian. P'or many years he lalx)red 
in Mexico, among the Missions of the Sierra Gorda, and pene- 
trated to the farthest frontiers. When he heard of the expulsion 
of the Jesuits from Lower California, he feared that the Indians 
in that country would relapse into utter barbarism, and 
hastened to occupy the field before this calamity could occur. 
It was thus that Galvez found him on the ground, ready to co- 
operate in the scheme of settlement and to raise the Cross under 
the protection of the sword. 

In October, 1768, the two leaders met at Santa Ana, Mexico, 
to develop their plans in detail. It seems clear that Galvez 
was the master mind at the conference, but that the priest as- 
sented heartily to all his suggestions. When they separated 
a perfect understanding had been reached and both proceeded 
to push the organization of the expedition with the utmost 
vigor. The early days of 1769 found plans well advanced and 
the hour for the actual beginning of the movement close at hand. 
It was the work of Galvez to get the ships ready for the voyage 
and to direct the organization of the military parties w^ho were 
to go by land and sea; and the work of Father Serra to select 
the priests who were to go, some by s«a and some by land, to 
engage in the founding of the new missions. There was much 
to be done in securing furniture, ornaments, and vestments for 
the churches which were to be established. It was arranged that 
these things, together with implements, live stock, grrain, and 
other food, should be taken from the old Jesuit establishments, 
now fallen into the hands of the Franciscans, and that with the 



40 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

exception of the few articles to be accepted as gifts, they should 
be religiously repaid in kind. Tims the old missions were 
called upon to support the new, after the Jesuit custom. 

On January 9, 1769, the San Carlos sailed from La Paz, 
after the performance of impressive religious ceremonies at 
which Father Serra presided. The ISan Antonio sailed from San 
Jose del Cabo on February 15th, and the third vessel, the San 
Jose, followed many months later, but went to **the Port of 
Missing Ships." It was never heard of again. 

The land parties went forward from points where they had 
been assembled on the Peninsula in the month of March, one 
proceeding under the leadei*ship of Governor Portola, and the 
other under ('aptain Rivera. Father Serra had expected to go 
w'ith Portola, but when the time came it found him suffering 
keenly from an ulcerous sore on his foot, contracted during a 
long journey in Mexico the previous year. He was thus com- 
pelled to see the i)ai'ty start without him, but he followed soon 
after and overtook Portola on May iltli. The effort cost him 
much pain and lends a touch of real heroism to a journey which 
was otherwise unmarked by any special hardship. The sore was 
healed in a single night by an ointment of tallow and herbs such 
as was commonly applied to beasts, but th(» ointment was sup- 
plemented by his own prayers and his touching faith in their ef- 
ficacy. The cure was only partial; he sutf(*red from the in- 
firmity to the day of his death. 

Very good accounts of the progress of the expedition, on both 
land and water, were kept V)y several of the participants, includ- 
ing Father Serra himself. These have been preserved and made 
accessible to students, some of the most important of the trans- 
lation having been accomplished by Charles F. Lummis, the 
most competent and tireless student of early California history. 
But though the accounts are remarkably complete, it is not un- 
til the story reaches San Diego that they are of special inter- 
est to us. 

Although the San Antonio had sailed over a month later than 
the San Carlos, it was the first to arrive at its destination. Mis- 
led by Cabrillo's error in placing the port two degrees farther 
north than its true latitude, both ships went as far as Santa 
Barbara Channel and then turned south on discovering the mis- 
take. The San Antonio sailed through the Silver Gate and 
dropped anchor in the harbor, April 11th. Two of her crew 
had died, and many were ill, from scurvy. But the condition of 
the San Carlos, which followed on April 29th, was very much 
worse. Only four sailoi's were able to stand at their post and 
half the troops were also down with the wretched disease. The 
men were just able to reach port and had no energy left to lower 
a boat and go ashore. Their plight was soon discovered by the 



THE DIARY OF COSTANSO 



f^' 



-J)IARIO HISTORICO 

deiosviages.de MAR,V TIE^RA 
^ llechos al norte db la california 

DE ORD£N 
DEL EXCELENriSSIMO SFNOR 

MARQUES DE CROIX- 

Viffcy. Govcrriador. y Cspitan GcncnJ dc U 
Nucva ElpjfiJ: 
Y POR DIRECCION 

DEL ILLUSTRISSIMO SENOR 

D JOSEPH DEC ALVEZ. 

Del Confcjo, y Camara dc S. M. en cl Supremo de 

Indus, Intcndenic dc Exc.city, Viiitador General 

dccflsRcyno, 

Eiccoudotpoi li Ttopi Jc/llnaib J Jichoobjro.l niiDd« 

DE DON CASPAR DE POR.TOLA. 

Ctfdtu it DtigOMt w ,1 Rfgimicow (Je Erprf,, y C<..c«i(la/ 

in dichi Pcmnrijli 

Y p« Ifc PiqMboc. d S. Clo. , d S. Antonio >l muide 

DE DON VICENTE VILA, 

Mow dtlKnm«o Jcprtmoo.d. |, r„| ArmtJi, 

X DE DON JUAN PEREZ. 

J« It Nncgician de Pbilipiojt. 

»* nTTtimT i nmuu. »fti M it »«nm»Mr 4 tTt 



0%Ut.M DEL EXCiKhSit. vmn 



42 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

captain and crew of the San Antonio^ who proceeded to remove 
the sick sailors and sokliers to a rude hospital which they had 
improvised on the shore. Like the early explorers, they were 
charmed with the port and its surroundings and soon became 
enthusiastic over the prospects of settlement. **A country of 
joyous aspect/' they called it, and no one has improved upon 
the x>hrase. 

One of the most valuable records of the time was that left by 
Costanso, a civil engineer and cosmographer of the expedition, 
who came on the San Carlos. He gives an interesting account 
of the Indians, who were present in large numbers to witness 
w^hat must have been a most exciting scene for them — the ar- 
rival of the first white settlers. The Indians were very shy, at 
first, but it seemed absolutely necessary for the Spaniards to 
make their acquaintance without delay, since they had urgent 
need to obtain a fresh supply of water. The water question ap- 
pears early in the annals of San Diego, and stays late! 

The Indians were finally induced to parley and, after pres- 
ents had been distributed among them, undertook to show the 
strangers where they could find a flowing stream. **They went 
a matter of three leagues,'* says Costanso, ^Sintil they arrived 
on the banks of a river henuned in on either bank by a fringe 
of willows and cotton woods, very leafy. Its channel must have 
been twenty varas wide [about 55 feet] and it discharges into 
an estuary which at high tide would admit the launch and made 
convenient the accomplishing of taking on of water.'* This was, 
of course, the San Diego River, and it is evident that there had 
been a fair rainfall in the Winter of 1769. A good-sized Indian 
village was found in the valley, and Costanso leaves us this item 
of society gossip: "These natives are of good figure, well-built 
and agile. They go naked without more clothing than a girdle 
of ixtle or very fine maguey fiber, woven in the form of a net." 
After a better acquaintance with them, he drew this picture of 
the Indians: **They are of haughty temper, daring, covetous, 
great jesters and braggarts; although of little valor, they make 
great boast of their powei-s, and hold the most vigorous for 
most valiant. They greatly crave whatsoever rag; but when we 
have clothed different ones of them on repeated occasions, they 
would present themselves the following day stark naked." 

The temporary pest house or hospital erected for the accom- 
modation of the sick sailors stood at what is now the foot of H 
street. It was a rude affair, made of canvas. A third of those 
who had come on the San Carlos died l)efore the ravages of the 
scurvy were stayed. They were buried there, and henceforth the 
place was known on the Spanish charts of the harbor as Punta 
de los Muertos, or Dead Man 's Point. 



ARRIVAL OF LAND PARTY 43 

It was on the 14th of May that Captain Rivera arrived with 
the first land party. This consisted of twenty-five soldiers, from 
the Presidio of Lereto; Father Juan Crespi, Jose Canizares, who 
had been designated to write a diary of the land trip, three 
muleteers, and a band of converted natives who had been drawn 
from one of the missions in the South. The natives were brought 
along for the purpose of performing the drudgery. The party 
had been fifty-one days on the march without incurring any 
special hardship. As they approached San Diego they met 
many of the gentile Indians, and when they came in sight of 
the ships and camj) they were welcomed by a salute of fire-arms. 

Rivera proceeded at once to establish a more permanent camp, 
moving it from the present site of the city to the neighborhood 
of what is now known as Old Town, in order to be near the river. 
The exact location of this first attemi)t at a permanent camp is 
not entirely clear. Costanso says it was on the ** right bank of 
the river, '* and, if he used the term as it Is now understood, he 
must have referred to the north bank of the stream. There is 
a tradition in Old Town to the effect that the camp was on the 
north side, though the more general impression seems to be that 
it was on the south side, not far from the famous old palnLs. The 
camp was fortified, a few rude huts built, and a corral made for 
the animals. Here the whole party was busy for six weeks, at- 
tending the sick and unloading supplies from the San Antojiio. 
It was here that the second land party found them when it 
reached San Diego at the end of June. Governor Portola ar- 
rived June 29th in advance of his men, and Father Serra just 
before noon, July 1st. Besides the leaders, the party included 
nine or ten soldiers, four muleteers, two serv^ants of the Gov- 
ernor and the President, and forty-four natives of Lower Cali- 
fornia. 

The personal letter which Father Serra sent to Father Palou, 
his intimate friend and biographer, supplies an account of the 
expedition which will always be regarded as one of the most 
precious memorials of San Diego history. The letter in full is 
as follows: 

My Dear Friend and Sir: 

Thank God I arrived the dav before vesterdav, at this 
port of San Diego, truly a fine one, and with reason famous. 
Here T found those who had set out before me, bv sea as well 
as by land, excepting? such as died on the way. The brethren, 
Fathers Crespi, Viscaino, Parro, and Gomez are here and, with 
myself, all well, thanks be to God. Here also are two ves- 
sels; but the Sa7i Carlos is without seamen, all having died ex- 
cept one and the cook. The .SVi^i Antonio, althoujjh she sailed a 
month and a half later, arrived twentv davs before the San 
Carlos, losing on the voyage eight seamen. In conseqiience of 
this loss^ the San Antonio will return to San Bias, to procure 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

HOHmun for herself and the San Carloe. The cauaes of the delay 
of the Salt Carlos were, first, the waot of water, and, second, 
the error which ali were in respecting the situation of this 
port. They supposed it to bo in thirty-three or thirty-four 
degrees north latitude; and strict orders were given to Captain 
Vila and the rest to kopp out in the open aea till they ahoulil 
arrive in tbirty-four degrees, and tlien make the shore in search 
of the port. As, however, the port in reality lies in 33 deg. 43 
inin. necording to observations which have now been made they 
went far beyond the port, thus malting the voyage much longer 
than was necessary. The people got daily worse from the cold 










^ver, 


" ">f >« 


Idier. PortolB 






and the 


bad w 




(1 th 


V must 


all have 


■erished 


if they 


had not 


diseove 


red 'the 


port 


11 bout 


be time they did; 


for they 






lie to 




the b 






water, 


or to (1u 




B wha 




for the. 


r jitesetvation. Th 


Father 


t'ernandu did e 


■crvthi 


S ■" 


his |iovi 


er to relie 


vo the s 


eh; and 


although 


be »rr 


ved ni 


ch r 


dii.'ed 1 


1 flesh, he 


had not 


the dis- 


order, an 


d is no 


w well 


We 


liiive n 


ot suffered 


hunger 


r priva- 



fat and bealthv. 

The Iract through which we linve pa! 
good land, with plenty of water; and the 



THE PIONEER SETTLEMENT 45 

country is neither rocky nor overcome with brushwood. There 
are, however, many hills, but they are composed of earth. The 
road has been in many places good, but the greater part bad. 
About half way, the valleys and banks of rivulets begrn to be 
delightful. We found vines of a large size and in some cases 
quite loaded with grapes; we also found abundance of roses, 
which appeared to be the same as those of Castile. In fine, it 
is a good country and very different from that of Old Califor- 
nia [meaning the Peninsula]. 

We have seen Indians in immense numbers; and all those 
on this coast of the Pacific contrive to make a good subsis- 
tence on various seeds and by fishing; this they carry on by 
means of rafts or canoes made of tule [bulrush], with which 
they go a great way to sea. They are very civil. All the 
males, old and young, go naked; the women, however, and 
even the female children, were decently covered from their 
breasts downwards. We found in our journey, as well as in the 
places where we stopped, that they treated us with as much 
confidence and good will as if they had known us all their 
lives; but when we offered them any of our victuals, they al- 
ways refused them. All they cared for was cloth; and only 
for something of this sort would they exchange their fish or 
whatever else they had. 

From this port and intended mission of San Diego, in North- 
ern California, 3rd July, 1769. T kiss the hands of your Rever- 
ence, and am your affectionate brother and servant. 

Fr. Junipero Serra. 

Between the lines of this remarkable letter glows the optimism 
of the great missionary, and something of that enthusiasm for 
the region and its possibilities which is felt by all who come 
within its influence. If nothing save this letter had come down 
to us from the memorable summer of 1769, we should not have 
been left in ignorance of the fate of the expedition, nor of the 
aspect of the country and its inhabitants. 

With the arrival of Father Serra, the great project of Galvez 
scored its historic success, a fact which reflected the highest 
credit upon the man who had planned it to the last detail. He 
never saw the country himself, but he set the forces in motion 
w^hich saved it for his king and his flag, at least for a time, and 
thus he deserves lasting remembrance among the fathers of 
California. The success of his plans in uniting the four branches 
of the expedition at San Diego furnished a base from which the 
larerer scheme of settlement could be carried along the coast. 

The w^ork of establishing a real settlement began with the 
least possible delay. The place selected was *'a point of middling 
height," as Costanso called it. a hill overlooking Old Town 
now known as Presidio Hill, on the site of an Indian village 
called ''Cosoy." Standing there today upon the ruins, one can 
w^ell understand why this spot was chosen and cannot fail to 
admire the judgment which dictated the choice. It is conve- 
niently located both as to the harbor and as to the indispensable 




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KAfSIMlLK OF A |-A(;k KRDM TliK [.rAftV l>f FATriKH SKUHA. 



t^IRST MISSION DEDICATED 4l 

water in the river, and it eoniniands the valley on one hand, 
and the shore of the bay, on the other, so as to be reasonably safe 
from attack from either of those directions. It was easy to for- 
tify, and it has a sightly outlook upon land and sea. The soil 
is deep and rich, and therefore well adapted to support the 
gardens and orchards which are always a part of mission 
establishments. 

Here, in the space of little more than two weeks, rude earth- 
works were thrown up as the nucleus of a presidio or fort, 
houses that were little more tlian huts were hastily constructed, 
and the largest one set apart as the missi(m building. Every- 
thing was ready on the IHth of July for the dedication of the 
first mission on the sr>il of California. It was named the Mis- 
sion of San Diego and the old record declares that it was built 
at the expense *'of the Catholic monarch, Don Carlos III., King 
of Spain, whom God prosper, defrayed under most ample 
authority from his Excellency, Don Carlos Francisco de Croix, 
Marques de Croix, ])resent Viceroy, Governor, and Captain- 
General of this New Spain, by the most Illustrious Don Joseph 
de Galvez, of the Council and Chamber of his Majesty in the 
royal and supreme of the Indies, Intendent of the Army, and 
Visitador General of this New Spain, by the religious of said 
Apostolic College, San Fernando of Mexico.'' 

The ceremonies attending the dedication were as elaborate 
and pompous as circumstances permitted. The military and 
naval officers were on hand with their troops, who strove to make 
up in dignity what they lacked in numbers. Father Serra and 
his priests performed their part with the utmost reverence and 
solemnity, praying that they might **put to flight all the hosts 
of hell and subject to the mild yoke of our holy faith the bar- 
barity of the gentile Dieguinos. '' The (,'ross w^as raised, the 
royal standard thrown to the breeze, incense sent up from a tem- 
porary' altar, and, from the branches of a convenient tree, the 
mission bell rang out upon the stillness of the valley. 

This was the true natal day of San Diego — July 16, 1769. 
The life of the settlement dates from that moment. Presidio 
Hill, with its mouldering, tile-strewn ruins, is historic ground 
and should be preserved as such, forever. It is the birthplace 
of civilization on the Pacific Coast of the United States 




CIIAPTKK III 

THE TAMING OF THE INDIAN 

ATIIER SKRRA and his associates now stood 
at the threshold of their real work — the tani- 
inj^ of th(» Indian — and a stupendous task it 
nnist have seemed, even to tlu* optimistic 
minds of the missionaries. They were a long 
distanee from any reliable base of supplies, 
and the means of comnnniieation were most 
uncertain. The country itself produced prac- 
tically nothing, as yot, for their subsistence. The climate, of 
course, was glorious, but it has betMi proved again an<l again 
that men cannot live on climate, even in San Diego. Water 
and fuel they had in abundance, and supplies to last them a 
few months; but bevond this thev must create the situation 
which should make permanent s<*tth*nient possible. In order to 
do so successfully, they nuist convert the Indian in a double 
sense, for it was not enough to bring him to the foot of the 
Cross; he must also be converted to habits of industry and made 
a useful member of civilized society. No one but an enthusiast 
like Junipero Serra, ecjuipped with a fund of experience in sim- 
ilar work, could possibly hav<* contemplated the undertaking 
with anything lik(» confidence in the result, and even the stout 
lieart of that great teaclier and h)V(*r was sorely tried before the 
seed took root and began to tlourish. 

The Indians who swarmed about th(» bav of San Dieiro were, 
apparently, as poor material as ever came to the social mill. 
All the early observers, except the missionaries, spoke of them 
with contempt. Humboldt classed them with the inhabitants of 
Van Diemen's Land, who. of all human beings, seemed nearest 
to the brute. Neither physically nor intellectually did they com- 
pare with the Indians of Eastern America nor with those whom 
the settlei*s encountered in the region of the Mississippi and its 
tributaries. Xo one ever called the San Diego Indian **the noble 
red man," for he was neither noble nor red. but a covetous, 
thievish, and sneaking creature, of a brownish complexion, some- 
thing like the soil. There were no oratoi^s among them and, it 
is to be feannl, very few brave men, for when they fought they 
acted like a pack of cowards. They never attacked an enemy 
except in overwhelming numbers, and they ran like so many 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 49 

curs before the snap of a whip the moment their enemy obtained 
a momentarj^ advantage. 

It is unpleasant to speak hai-shly of the poor creatures, but 
no just appreciation of what the missionaries accomplished in 
later years can be had unless we begin with a true estimate of 
the. human material they had to deal with in building their 
institutions. It was very poor material, and the Mission Fathers 
did exceedingly well in moulding it into some semblance of 
civilization. 

The Indians had their homes in rude huts, made of sticks and 
mud, and generally grouped in villages. Some of these villages 
were large, containing hundreds of huts, with a population 
which often reached a thousand or more. They were governed 
by hereditary chiefs, with a captain in each village. They had 
some simple laws, which were nuide from time to time to meet 
conditions as they arose, and the death penalty was inflicted for 
certain crimes. The method of execution was shooting with 
arrows. Prisoners of war were cruelly tormented in the pres- 
ence of the assembled chiefs. Marriage customs were quite sim- 
ilar to those now common among Southwestern Indians, and pun- 
ishment for infidelity fell exclusively upon the wife. They had 
a vague, instinctive belief in a siipi-eme being, and they showed 
much reverence for certain animals. The owl, for example, was 
held in esteem, and the poi'poise was regarded as an intelligent 
being, intrusted with the duty of guarding the world. 

The men went uaked, but the women wore some clothing, for 
sake of decency, yet furnished scant patroiuige for the dress- 
maker. They wore a single garment of deer skin, or were clad 
in braided strands of rabbit skins, which hung to the knees. 
Frequently the garment was adorned with bright beads or 
grasses, for even Indian women had some concern for their 
appearance and desired to make themselves attractive. They 
painted, of course, after their own fashion, smearing their faces 
with colored mud. 

The Indian diet cannot be recommended, for they were fond 
of rats, ground-owls and snakes, and regarded a large, fat lo- 
cust, roasted on a stick, as a particular delicacy. They caught 
plenty of fish, and knew how to cook them; and they had all 
sorts of game, together with many things which grew wild in 
the vegetable kingdom. On the whole, they lived pretty well, 
and it was the life of one large family, generally quite peace- 
ful, but sometimes marred by fierce tribal wars. 

The San Antonio had sailed for San Bias on Julv 9th, leav- 
ing the San Carlos in the harbor to await its return with sea- 
men to take the places of those who had fallen by scurvy and 
now slept in the sands along the shore. Portola had marched 
northward to Monterey on the 14th. The little settlement was 




. of PivBitlui Hill (whi< 



GLOOMY DAYS ON THE HILL 51 

alone in the wilderness. There were forty persons, all told, in- 
chidint^ priests, soldiers, sick sailors, and Indians from Lower 
California. 

With the dedication of the Presidio and the Mission, the first 
institutions had been established in what is now the State of 
California. These institutions were typical of Spanish civiliza- 
tion — the soldier and the priest working side by side, but al- 
ways with the sword above the Cross in point of authority. It 
was essentially a military government, and the commandant 
was empowered to deal out justice, civil and criminal. The 
San Diego garrison was alw^ays pitiably weak and could never 
have protected the Spanish title to the country against any 
serious attack. In fact, the whole military establishment along 
the coast, after the four districts of San Diego, Santa Barbara, 
Monterey, and San Francisco had been organized, was a mere 
shell, with less than two hundred soldiers. There were, in ad- 
dition, a few mechanics and numerous native laborers. Each 
soldier had a broadsword, lanee, shield, musket, and pistols, to- 
gether with six horses, a colt, and a mule. As settlement in- 
creased, the carrying of the mails ])etween the missions was 
the most arduous and useful service the soldiers performed. 

Father Serra and his associate minister, Father Parron, found 
it very difficult to make Indian converts. It was no task to 
assemble the natives, for they swarmed to Presidio Hill in such 
large numbers as to become a nuisance. They had well-de- 
veloped bumps of curiosity and were persistent beggars, but, 
fortunately, they were afraid of the strangers' food. They 
would have none of it, for they imagined it was the food the 
Spaniards ate w^hich made so many of them sick. It is dread- 
ful to think w^hat would have happened to the white men if 
the Indians had liked their food as much as their cloth and 
trinkets — they would have been eaten out of house and home! 
As it was, the Indians became so obnoxious that trouble coWd / 
not be avoided. They tried to plunder the San Carlos, and it 
was necessary to keep a guard constantly on board to protect 
the ship. 

The trouble reached its acut« stage on August 15th, when the 
new settlement was a month old. It was a feast-day and Father 
Parron was saying mass on the ship, with a guard of two sol- 
diers. During his absence, the Indians burst into the Mission 
and proceeded to strip the clothing from the beds of the sick. 
Four soldiers rushed to repel them, but they were greeted with 
a volley of arrows. A boy wa.s killed — he was Jose Maria 
Vegerano, the first person of white blood to die a violent death 
in San Diego — and the blacksmith was wounded. Serra and 
his fellow-priest, Viscaino, had just finished mass and were 
sitting together in the hut. Viscaino rose to shut the door 



52 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

and received an arrow in the hand at the moment when the 
lioy staggered in and fell dead at Serra\s feet. The four sol- 
diei's gave the Indians a volley of musket-balls and the black- 
smith fought like a demon. The Indians ran away, notwith- 
standing their superior numbers, but they had the assurance 
to return soon and request medical aid for their wounded. 

The Indians had made the acquaintance of gunpowder and 
it did them good, for they behaved much better after that ad- 
venture. Nevertheless, the good Fathers had the wisdom to 
(*re(*t a stockade around the Mission and to make a rule for- 
bidding the savages to come inside without first depositing their 
weapons. The Indians continued very neighborly, yet none 
embraced the faith. This does not seem remarkable in view of 
the fact tliat the missionaries could not converse with them in- 
telligibly, having to rely wholly upon sign language at first. 
PiVen when one of their men had mjistered the savage tongue 
sufficiently to act as interpreter, they were still unable to en- 
roll a single neophyte. So far as known, this was absolutely the 
most discouraging experience the missionaries had ever had, 
for nearly a year had passed without one conversion. But that 
was not the worst of it. Converts could wait but mouths must 
be fed. The supplies wen* dwindling while sickness increased. 

Those were gloomy days on Presidio Ilill — the Summer and 
Fall of 1769 — in spite of the smiling sky and genial atmos- 
phere. No converts, no j)i'ogress toward cultivating the soil, no 
white sails on th(» horizon to tell of returning ships from Mex- 
ico — nothing but sickness and death and the chill portent of 
coming disaster. Of the forty whom Portola had left when he 
marched away, nineteen died before he retui'ued, and the sur- 
vivors were heartsick with the sad work of laying them in their 
graves. Of those who died, eight were soldiei's, four sailors, six 
Indians, and one a servant. No wonder the savages wanted 
none of their food ! 

On January 24, 1770, the disheartened party of twenty 
souls living within the stockade on Presidio Hill was startled 
by a discharge of musketry. It was Portola and his men, re- 
turning from their futile search for Monterey. But they brought 
small comfort for Father Serra. Portola had accomplished 
nothing in the North ; he could not see that Serra had accom- 
l)lished anything in the South, and he declared that San Diego 
ought to be abandoned while there were yet supplies enough 
to enable the party to get back to civilization. Poor Jumpero 
Serra was heart-bi*oken nt the decision. lie was not a soldier 
of the flag, seekin»i" to win territory for his King, but a soldier 
of the Oross, seeking to win souls for his (Jod. lie could not 
abandon the gentiles of California to the fate of the heathen, 



THE COLONY SAVED 53 

and while he acknowledged the worldly wisdom of Portola's 
advice, there is every reason to believe that his own private 
decision was to stay at every cost and, if need be, to offer his 
life as a sacrifice on the altar of the Mission of San Diego. 
For Portola spoke from without, and Junipero Serra only 
obeyed the Voice Within. 

Nevertheless, preparations were made for the abandonment, 
and March 19th was fixed as the day for the formal ending 
of the work which had been so auspiciously begun in the pre- 
vious July. But one thing could save San Diego now — not only 
San Diego, but California as well, for Galvez had planned the 
conquest of the whole coast. This one thing was the timely 
return of the San Antonio which had been so long awaited in vain 
that no one now expected it — no one, save the immortal priest, 
lie went up to the hilltop on that fateful morning and turned 
his eyes to the sea as the sun rose. All day long he watched 
the waste of waters as they lay there in the changing light. It 
was a scene of marvelous beauty, and, as he watched and prayed, 
Junipero Serra doubtless felt that he drew very close to the 
Infinite. So devout a soul, in such desperate need, facing a 
scene of such nameless sublimity, could not have doubted that 
somewhere just below the curve of the sea lay a ship, with 
God's hand pushing it on to starving San Diego. And as the 
sun went down he caught sight of a sail — a ghostly sail, it 
seemed, in the far distance. Who can ever look upon the height 
above the old Presidio, when the western sky is glowing and 
twilight stealing over the hills, without seeing Father Serra 
on his knees, pouring out his prayer of thanksgiving! 

Captain Perez had made a quick trip to San Bias, but had 
been long delayed in his preparations for returning. His orders 
vvere to proceed to Monterey, where it was supposed Portola 's 
men would be found in need of help, and it was the merest ac- 
cident which sent him to San Diego at the last moment when 
his arrival could save the colony. This accident was the loss 
of an anchor in Santa Barbara Channel and the consequent 
need of seeking a safe harbor. He had been told by the natives 
at Santa Barbara that the land party had passed south, but 
he would have gone to Monterey, nevertheless, in accordance 
with his strict orders, except for the loss of the anchor. Thus 
it happened that he reached the Bay of San Diego, four days 
after the missionary had caught the first glimpse of his blessed 
sail. 

The arrival of supplies and recruits changed the whole face 
of the situation. Portola thought no more of abandoning the 
settlement, and decided to renew the northern exploration and 
the quest for Monterey. Father Viscaino went to Lower Cali- 
fornia to obtain live-stock and other necessaries. Father Serra 



54 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

proceeded with his work of mission-building with a glad heart 
and renewed vigor. 

Presidio Hill was not destined to be the permanent seat of the 
mission establishment. The story of the two or three years 
immediately succeeding the return of Captain Perez cannot be 
told with any fullness, since all sources of information are bar- 
ren on this period, and since the early mission records were 
destroyed by fire, but the fact that the mission was removed 
supplies convincing evidence that it was not prosperous. How- 
ever, some progress was made and there is good authority for 
the statement that in 1773 seventy-six converts had been enrolled 
and some material progress made. The live-stock at that time 
consisted of the following: forty cattle, sixty-four sheep, fifty- 
five goats, nineteen hogs, two jacks, two !)urros, seventeen mares, 
three foals, nine horses, four riding and eighteen pack mules — 
a total of 233 animals. 

There was now no thought of abandoning the settlement. It 
had begun to take hold both of the natives and the soil, but there 
were evidently imperative reasons for changing its location. 
One important consideration was the fact that the presence of 
the soldiers seriously interfered with the work of interesting the 
Indians, both spiritually and industrially. A removal had been 
suggested by Commandant Fages in 1773, but Serra opposed it. 
Father Jaume, however, who was in charge of the mission, threw 
his influence in favor of the removal. He desired an atmosphere 
which should be wholly free from the distraction of the mili- 
tary, yet not so far removed from the Presidio as to deprive him 
of protection. In his walks a))out the country he had discovered 
the ideal location. In fact, it must have suggested itself, for 
he had but to follow the river a few miles up the fertile valley 
to see where nature pointed with unerring finger to the very 
place which seems to have been created for his purpose. 

Standing now among the relics of that historic settlement, one 
can easily imagine the joy which must have filled the old mis- 
sionary's heart as he took in each detail of the scene and roughly 
outlined the work which his followers were to do. Junipero 
Serra was not himself the builder of the San Diego Mission, 
nor did he personally organize the work which was done there 
for a period of more than two generations. His was the genius 
which could conceive great projects, then set others at work to 
carry them out, inspired with his own confidence in the benefi- 
cent consequences of the work. His name outshines those of all 
his contemporaries, for there were many lieutenants and an 
army of followers where there was but one great leader who 
saw the end from the beginning. When any important work is 
accomplished, all who have a part in it are entitled to their share 
of credit; but it is the man of bold conceptions, the man en- 



SITE OF THE MISSIOK 



55 



dowed with the creative instinct to initiate great undertakings 
and to set forces in motion to secure their execution, who changes 
the face of his times and takes high rank in Ininian history. 

The spot selected for the permanent mission is about six miles 
up the valley from the original settlement on Presidio Hill. It 
jMtssesses every advantage, in the way of soil and water, of shel- 
tering hills and gentle climate, for an agricHltural, industrial, 
and pastoral establishment nnder a patriarchal form of govern- 
ment, like that of the Mission Fathers. If there was a draw- 
back, it was the fact that the river did not furnish water at all 




^M 






STATUE Oi- FATHER SERRA AT 

seasons, and that some engineering skill and a large amount of 
labor were required to secure a reliable supply for the orchards 
and gardens. A perennial stream would have been an impntve- 
ment, yet the water problem was readily solved after a time by 
going a few miles up the river, building a dam, and conducting 
a supply to the place of nse by means of tunnels and ditches. 
This was not done, however, at first, nor was there urgent need 
of it until the community had grown to some size. There was 
good pasturage; grain could be raised without irrigation; and 
water could be had from the natural flow of the stream for one 
crop of v^etables and small fruits each sea.son, while the rich 



56 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

soil along the river, with plenty of undergronnd water not far 
from the surface, encourajiced the growth of trees. Thus the mis- 
sionaries were able to make an early start in their new location 
and could safely reserve the finer forms of development until the 
time when they should be called upon to sustain hundreds or 
thousands by a more intensive cultivation of the soil. 

Aside from these material considerations, the place must have 
appealed powerfully to the devoted priests. It was like their 
native Spain in all its essential aspects; it was in the midst of 
the gentiles wiiom they wished to christianize and to make use- 
ful in field and shop; and the scenery offered by hill and valley, 
by sea and mountains, was as charming as the eye of man ever 
beheld. So there the missionaries went in August, 1774, to make 
a new start and to lav the foundations of a mission which thev 
fondly hoped might last for many centuries. For more than a 
year the work proceeded prosperously, with a constant increase 
in the niimber of converts, with growing herds and increasing 
crops, and with Fathers Fuster and Jaume in charge of affairs. 
All was quiet as the hills and peaceful as the sunshine. The 
converted Indians seemed to enter more and more into the true 
spirit of the work. 

Thus they celebrated the Feast of Saint Francis, founder of 
the Franciscan order, w^ith every evidence of satisfaction, on 
October 3 and 4, 1775. On the fii'st day the priests baptized 
sixty new converts, and on the next day Spaniards and Indians 
assisted in the solemn mass and procession and, later, joined in 
sport and play. There were horse and foot races. The Span- 
iards gave exhibitions in the art of fencing and the Indians dis- 
played their skill with bows and arrows. Everybody seemed 
happy and nothing occurred to mar the harmony of the scene. 
And yet within a month of that time the Indians rose in revolt, 
the mission was w^iped from the face of the earth, and the cause 
of the Franciscans received a staggering blow^ at the moment 
when its promoters felt entirely secure. 

There is no explanation of the event except the innate cruelty 
of the Indian character. They had received nothing but kind- 
ness from the missionaries. The soldiei*s had not attempted to 
oppress them. Those who had accepted the new faith had been 
clothed and fed, while those who rejected the faith had been 
let alone. The Spaniards had been in the country' for more than 
six years, and if the savages resented their presence it took them 
a long time to discover their state of mind. Had they been a 
people of any spirit they could have expelled or annihilated the 
intruders at short notice and killed the seed of civilization 
wherever it touched the soil. Instead, they acquiesced in the 
Spanish occupation, took all they could get from the mission- 
aries, and then, when they had fully established their friendly 



THE MISSION DESTROYED 57 

character, turned into demons and sought to strike down the 
hand that was leading them from darkness to light. Such was 
the wav of the Indian. 

A few days after the feast, two of the new convei-ts slyly left 
the mission and returned to the mountains, where they pro- 
ceeded to agitate for a movement against the Spaniards, visiting 
one raneheria after another to urge an uprising. They found 
most of the villages eager for the adventure, though a few 
declined to have any part in it. November 4, 1775, was fixed 
upon as the date for the attack, and large numbers of Indians 
wended their way toward the seacoast to engage in the affair. 
The plan was to divide the forces and attack the mission and 
Presidio, which were six miles apart, simultaneously, and it w-as 
arranged that the firing of the mission should be the signal for 
the attack on the Presidio. The eagerness of the force assigned 
to the mission saved the Presidio, for the party which was 
headed down the valley saw the flames at the mission and rea- 
soned that the soldiers at the fort would be alarmed at the sight 
and thus prepared to resist attack. They overestimated the 
Spanish soldiei's, who were sound asleep instead of standing 
faithfully on guard; and they slept through that fateful night 
in !)lissful ignorance of the tragedy in progress a few miles up 
Mission Valley. The Indians, however, turned back and joined 
their companions in the assault upon the mission buildings. 
Thus it happened that the savages were eight hundred strong 
when they stealthily surrounded the sleeping Spaniards — eight 
hundred sneaking cowards, marshaled for a battle against eight 
friendly whites under cover of midnight darkness ! Surely, they 
should have made short work of them, vet w^hen dav dawned 
there were white men still alive in the mission and it was the 
savages who were fleeing, laden with dead and wounded. But 
is was an awful night up there in the shadow of the hills, where 
the stars looked down upon a scene which seemed eloquent of 
peace. 

The first move of the Indians was to surround the huts of the 
converts, waken them gently, and command them to remain 
quiet, on pain of instant death; the next, to invade the vestry 
and steal the church ornaments. Evidently, none of the Span- 
iards were troubled with insomnia, for these preliminaries were 
accomplished without rousing them. Then the Indians snatched 
firebrands from the camp-fire which still burned in front of the 
guard-house and applied them to the building, which was soon 
enveloped in flames. At last, the savages were ready to announei* 
their presence, w^hich they did by sounding a horrible war-cry 
with all the power of their eight hundred lungs. 

There were sleeping in the mission the two priests, Fathei's 
Fiister and Jaume, two children w^ho w'ere the son and nephew 



58 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

of Lieutenant Ortega (then absent at Capistrano), four soldiers, 
two carpenters, and a blacksmith — eleven in all, but only eight 
who could fight, as one of the carpenters was confined to his bed 
with illness and the children could do little but shriek. 

The soldiers got to work promptly with their muskets and 
Father Fuster joined them in the guard-house, with the chil- 
dren. The blacksmith tried to do the same, but was killed in 
the attempt. One of the carpenters succeeded in reaching the 
guard-house, but the one who was confined to his bed was ter- 
ribly wounded and died the next day. *'0 Indian, thou who 
hast killed me, may God pardon thee!'* he exclaimed, and when 
he made his testament, the next morning, he left to the mission 
Indians his small savings and belongings. Could there be a 
more striking evidence of the lofty spirit with which the Fathers 
imbued those around them than the Christlike attitude of this 
dying carpenter? 

But it is Father Luis Jaume who will stand out forever in 
boldest relief as men read the story of that terrible night. He 
was (piickly awakened and instantly undei-stood what was hap- 
pening, yet he did not seek the shelter of the guard-house nor 
seize a weapon for defense. He walked straight to the nearest 
and wildest group of savages and, extending his arms and smil- 
ing a gracious greeting, said: 'X^hildren. love God!'* If then^ 
was ever a moment when the phrase, *'Love God," meant **Love 
your fellow men,'' it was the moment when this saintly priest 
stood with(mt fear in the midst of those howling demons. He 
loved them and would not have harmed a hair of their heads, 
but they fell u[)on him in overwhelming numbers, dragged him 
down to the riv(»r, tore liis clothes from his body, tortured and 
stabbed him, and left him a mutilated mass of unrecognizable 
fiesh. 

In the meantime the six men and two children in the gimrd- 
house were fighting for their lives in the midst of roaring 
fiames. The place became too hot for tliem, and they decided 
to move into a slight building adjoining, which served as a 
temporary kitchen. It had only three sides and was wide open 
to attack on the other, and through this open side came con- 
stant volleys of arrows, clulxs, and firebrands. To improve 
their situation, the defenders brought boxers, sacks, and chests 
from the adjoining storeroom and thus barricaded the o[)en 
side. Only three remained to carry on the fight — two soldiers 
and P^ather Fuster — as all the others had been disabled. At 
this critical moment, the [)arty of Indians who had gone to the 
Presidio returned and reinforced the crowd at the mission. It 
was then that tlie priest noticed tliat one of the chests form- 
ing the im[)rovised breastwork contained all the powder that 
remained and was in imminent danger of exploding, for it was 



A STUNNING BLOW 59 

already afire. He seized it, extiuguished the tiames, and, with 
the aid of the two children, proceeded to load the gims 
for the vsoldiers, who shot as fast as thev could, and alwavs shot 
to kill. So the fearful night wore on. Daybreak came, and 
the craven besiegers had not dared to carry the frail shanty and 
overwhelm its two active defenders by bold assault. They 
picked up their dead and wounded and went back to the moun- 
tains, leaving the Presidio untouched, but the mission a smok- 
ing ruin. 

The neophytes crawled out of their huts and, with tears and 
sobs, assured Father Fuster and his bleeding companions that 
they had been closely confined throughout the night and un- 
able to lift a hand in their defense. This was probably true 
enough, yet it seems a pity that they did not avail themselves 
of the opportunity to write one noble page to the credit of 
their race by show^ing some evidence of loyalty to those who had 
befriended them. However, Father Fuster required no ex- 
planations, but sent some of the converts to notify the Presidio, 
and others to find the missing priest. Father Jaume. They 
found the lacerated corpse by the river and identified it by rea- 
son of its whiteness. 

The lazy incompetents at the Presidio listened with wide- 
mouthed wonder to the tale which the Indian messengers 
brought them from the mission. They had heard nothing, seen 
nothing, during the night, but had slept disgracefully well. 

The destruction of the Mission of San Diego was a stunning 
blow to the Franciscans, and, indeed, to the whole scheme of 
Spanish settlement on the coast of California. The vibrations 
of the shock did not stop at Presidio Hill, but went on up the 
coast, and culminated at Monterey in the form of a general 
alarm. A relief party was at once put in motion, and Father 
Serra hastened south to lend the inspiration of his courage and 
of his indomitable persistence in the holy cause. There was no 
serious thought of abandoning the settlement, for this would 
have encouraged both Indian and foreign aggression and might 
have put an end to Spanish dominion much sooner than it came 
in response to the inexorable logic of events. 

The survivors of the mission fight were removed to the 
Presidio and tenderly nursed back to health. The dead were 
buried at the Presidio, but many years afterward the body 
of Father Luis Jaume was removed to the mission and placed 
between the altars, where it yet rests. The place where he 
sleeps should be marked by an imperishable monument, for he 
was one of those rarc»st of heroes who, refusing to do violence 
even in self-defense, look smilingly into the face of death and 
go down to the dust with a prayer for their enemies on their 
saintly lips. 




CHAPTER IV 

THE DAY OF MISSION GREATNESS 

;^11EN PRESIDENT SERRA heard of the noble 
death of Father Jaume, he exclaimed: "God 
l)e thanked ! now the soil is watered ; now the 
rfduetion of the Diegiiiiios will be com- 
pleted." And it was indeed a case where 
the blood of the martyr became the seed of 
the church. The mission was re-established 
und dedicated in 1777, though it was not com- 
pleted until 1784, and was yet to be finally dedicated in 1813. 
But the uprising in which Father Jaiime lost his life really 
marked the end of the first hard period of struggle in which the 
outcome seemed doubtful, while the rapid recovery from that 
disaster signalized the tiesfinning of the long day of mission 
greatness. 

Of that day it is important that we should have n true con- 
ception, for it will ahvHvs supply a romantic and picturesque 
background to local history; but it would be an error to sup- 
jKtse that it is vitally relate*] to the city which finally grew up 
in the neighborhood of the pioneer settlements and which now 
bears the name of San Diego. The real history of the place be- 
gins at a later period than that which saw the passing of the 
Mission Fathers and the crumbling of their works under the 
pitiless footsteps of the years. Nor were their institutions or 
their infiueuce much more substantial tJmn their adobe walls. 
And yet. for a period of about tw{> generations, the Spanish 
soldier and the Franciscan missionary ruled the land and, 
partly by leading and partly by driving, converted many of the 
savages to the ways of religion and civilization. 

Conflicting tales come down to us from the earliest years of 
the joint reign of the soldier and the priest, and the written 
recowls are so bound with red-tape and saturated with conscio\is 
piety that it is frequently diffieiUt to get at the facts; but 
there can be no doubt that the sword was the constant ally of 
the Cross, and that the glory of God and of the King were 
utterly synoiiymoiis to the minils of that generation. Neither ts 
there any doubt of the earnestness of the missionaries in bring- 
ing souls to Christ. They were so deeply in eanu'st that they 
did not hesitate to employ the military ami as a means of 



TREATMENT OF INDIANS 61 

forcible eonversiori. There is reason to believe that whole vil- 
lages were sometimes surrounded and their inhabitants driven 
to the missions. It appears that the soldiers themselves had a 
poor opinion of the Indians, yet co-operated heartily with the 
priests in bringing them under subjection. Apparently, neither 
the military nor ecclesiastical authorities were under any il- 
lusion concerning the inherent unfitness of the Indians for 
real citizenship. Both clearly understood that they could only 
be utilized in connection with a patriarchal establishment. 
Somebody else must think and plan and direct; it was their 
part to labor, and to labor in the fear of (lod. As to the treat- 
ment of the Indians, accounts differ widely. They were better 
clothed, fed, and housed than in their native state. They 
learned useful arts. They caught a spark of industry which, 
had they been made of more inflammable material, might easily 
have been fanned into a fierce enthusiasm for the modes of 
civilized life, and thus have lifted them permanently from bar- 
barism. But there were many impartial observers who re- 
garded their condition as no better than slavery. Thus Alfred 
Robinson, in his fascinating book. Life in California, said 
that **it is not unusual to see numbers of them driven along 
by the alcaldes, and under the whip's lash forced to the very 
doors of the sanctuarv. '* lie adds: *'The condition of these 
Indians is miserable indeed ; and it is not to be wondered at 
that many attempt to esca[)e from the severity of the religious 
discipline of the Mission. They are pursued, and generally 
taken; when they are flogged, and an iron clog is fastened to 
their legs, serving as additional punishment, and a warning 
to others." 

That the good Fathers thought it more important to save 
the souls of the Indians than to spare their feelings or their 
backs, is easily susceptible of belief, for their missionary zeal 
knew^ no bounds. Better a converted soul in chains than a free 
heathen ! There is no doubt that thev sineerelv subscribed to 
this doctrine, and they were no more fanatic than many others 
of their time all over the w^orld. Nevertheless, the fair-minded 
student wmII not forget that while they were saving souls they 
were organizing a mass of eheaj) labor which worked for the 
enrichment of the Franciscan order, and founding settlements 
w^hich they thought would secure th(» permanent possession of 
an opulent land for the benefit of their sovereign. In other 
words, their duty and interest happened to be the same, and 
they had thus a double motive for what they did. They thought 
it was good religion and good statesmanship. 

When the Spaniards came, the whole beautiful western sl()[)e 
of the present San Diego ("ounty belonged to no one — ])ut the 
Indians. With the raising of the royal standard it came under 



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MISSION AT ITS BEST 63 

the nominal ownership of Spain, and it was agreed that each 
of the missions should take so much of the territory as it needed. 
The San Diego ^lission laid under tribute something like forty 
square miles, with its religious and industrial headquarters in 
Mission Valley and its military base on Presidio Hill. It w^as 
expected that tlie mission would become self-supporting, and 
more. This expectation was grandly fulfilled after the first hard 
years had been outlived. But shi|>s arrived each year in the 
harbor with supplies for the military establishment. The day 
came when they were able to depart with larger cargoes than 
they brought, for when the ^lission Fathers had enrolled thou- 
sands of laborers, and when their herds had multiplied, they had 
a surplus of good things for exportation. The boundaries of 
the mission domain seem to hav(^ been quite indefinite, but when 
the property was finally transferred to Santiago Argiiello, in 
1846, the deed covei-ed 58,208 acres; 22 and 21-100 acres, con- 
taining the mission buildintzs and gardens, were reserv-ed for the 
church and still remain in its ownership. 

In organizing the fii'st expedition, in 1769, Galvez supplied 
it with material for [)lanting such field, garden, and orchard 
cro[)s as he thought adapted to th(» climate. It is probable that 
the famous olive orchard, whicli still flourishes, and which is 
recognized as the mother of all the olive trees in California, owed 
its existence to the thought fulness of (ialvez. There were manv 
other varieties of trees of the early planting, such as peaches 
and peal's, but the olive outlives all its contemporaries, and 
those ancient trees in Mission Valley should remain to receive 
the homage of generations unborn. 

By 1783 the San Diego Mission had begun to assume some- 
thing of its permanent appearance. The church occupied a 
space eighty-two feet long by fiftei^n wide, running North and 
South. The granary was nearly as large. There was a store- 
house, a house for sick women and another for sick men. a mod- 
est house for the priests, a good-sized larder, and these (Miclosed 
on three sides a s(|uare one Inmdred and fifty-one feet long, the 
remaining side being enclosed by an adobe wall eight feet high. 
As the years went on the establishment was gradually extended 
to provide a series of small shops around the patio for the arti- 
sans and mechanics and acconnnodations for the increasing num- 
bers of neophytes outside the walls, but close at hand. It w-as 
not until 1804 that the buildings took on the final shape which 
is preserved in the pictures of the mission period. But the plan 
of the Fathei-s was always the sMme, with its low, gently-slanting 
roofs, its interior square, its Koman towers: and the material was 
always adobe, with burnt tile for roofs, windows, and doorways. 
The walls were about four fei^t thick. There can be no question 
that the architeetni*e harmonizcMl with the landscape, for it was 



y 



64 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

the architecture of Spain in a landscape resembling Spain in all 
essential aspects. 

There is a tradition of unusual interest concerning the build- 
hi^ of the San Diejro Mission, which is related as follows in the 
San Diego Wrrkly Union of Sei)tember 24, 1878: 

From an old woman now living near San Luis Rey, named 
.losct'a Peters, and whom we believe to be at least 124 years of 
age, Mr. W. 15. Couts learned that the timber for the mission 
came from Smith 's Mountain, at least sixty miles inland from 
this citv. The old ladv savs that after the timbers had all 
been nieely hewed and pre[)ared, and blessed by the priests on 
the mountain, on a certain day a v:ist number of the stoutest 
Indians were collected and stationed in relavs of about a mile 
apart, all the way from the summit of the mountain to the 
foundations of the mission buildings in the valley near this 
city. At a given signal the timbers were sprinkled l)y the as- 
sembled priests on the mountain, and were then hoisted on the 
shoulders of the Indians, and were thus carried to the first re- 
lays and chang(d to their shouMers, and so on, all the way to 
San Diego, without touching the ground; as it was considered 
sacrilege to have one of them touch the ground from the time 
of starting until it arrived at its final destination in the Church. 
As there are an immense number of these timbers, it shows 
the zeal and devotion of the Indians at that date, and their 
obedience to the Reverend Fathers. 

As the mission ji:rew it became evident that the San Die<|^o 
River could not support the hirj?e connnuiiity without somethin«r 
better than the crude works which had been built at first. This 
condition <<ave rise to some talk about removin^i: the* mission, and 
there are early reports still extant which speak of the *M)arren 
soil.'' But the soil needed only water to make it produce suc- 
cessive crops of hny nnd ve^retables, and annual harvests of 
fruit in <rreat variety. There is nothin^r more remarkable about 
these ])riestlv Imilders than the versatilitv of their talent and 

I • • 

the numner in which thev met all demands. Thus thev were 
able to supply the entrineerintr capacity to solve the problem of 
a permanent water supply. They went ten miles up the valley, 
found bedrock, and proceeded to build a dam of solid masonry 
across the river bed, two hundred and twentv-four feet louGf and 
twelve teet thick. The remains of this work are still in exist- 
ence and exhibit a wall fourteen feet hip:h, as seen from the 
lower side. The water was conducted by means of well built 
ditches and a short tunnel, and supplied the mission at all seasons 
of the year. It is this achievement which crives the ^Fission 
Fathers a hitrh place in the history of irrigation, and the remains 
of that ancient dam should be re^rarded as a hallowed shrine in 
a land where wat(*r is the God of the Harvest. TTavinsr thus 
thoroujrhly possessed themselves of the charminu: valley, and 
established the material life of th<Mr mission upon firm founda- 



ROUTINE OF MISSION LIFE 65 

tions, the Franciscan enthusiasts were at last ready to proceed 
triumphantly with their desi^s, both religious and secular. 

It is pleasant to linger upon the personal character of these 
California Fathers. While they furnished no exception to the 
nile that ** there is a black sheep in every flock/ ^ they were for 
the most part men of the rarest virtues, consecrated to the work 
in which they were engaged. It would be difficult to select 
from human annals two lofticM* characters than Junipero Serra 
ami Luis Jaume, yet these men are but conspicuous examples 
of the spirit which moved the Franciscans in all their labors for 
the upbuilding of California. The early priests came from 
Spain, the later ones from Mexico, and observers a])pear to have 
agreed in the opinion that the former somewhat excelled, both 
in attainments and zeal. It seems verv remarkable that men so 
deeply immersed in spiritual concerns should also have been 
practical men of affairs and eapa])le executives. Had they not 
been very competent in both respects they would have failed in 
their difficult undertakinsr. This verv unusual combination of 
qualities seems to have been common to nearly all the priests, 
and it is little wonder that thev obtained the confidence of the 
Indians to a verA' large degree and became their trusted advisers 
in all their troubles. 

The ordinary dress of the Franciscan was a loose woolen 
garment, of brownish color, reaching nearly to the gnmud. It 
was made whole and i^ut on ov(*r the head. The sleeves were 
wide, and the hood usually rested on the shouldei's, though it 
could be drawn over the head when the weather recjuired. A 
girdle was worn at the waist and was usually tied, with tassels 
hangintr down in front. It was one of the requirements of i\vi 
order that priests should have shaven crowns, the circular spot 
being about three or four inches in diameter. Thus the priest 
was readily distinguished wherever he went, and his benevolent, 
picturesque figure will always stand out clearly in California 
historv. 

As soon as the mission was firmlv established the number of 
neophytes steadily increased, thouerh it fluctuated a good deal 
with the passing years. The life of the place soon settled down 
into a regular routine, but it was ever marked by two predom- 
inant facts — worship and labor. The activities of the day 
began at daylight. Everybody who was able to move went Lo 
mass. Then the invariable breakfast of ground barley or atole 
was served and sunrise found everybody ready for the daily 
task. The middav meal was served between 11 and 12 o'clock. 
Again ground barley did duty in various forms. Sometimes 
mutton was supplied, and frequently the Spanish frijoles, or 
])eans. The sick and aged were fed largely on milk, which was 
something of a luxury. An interesting custom was the dis- 



66 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

tributiou of a liquid made of vinegar and sweetened water, 
which was carried through the fields in the hot afternoon on 
the baclvs of burros and always received with enthusiasm by 
the workers. At six the evening meal was served. This con- 
sisted principally of the inevitable ground barley and of such 
nut« and wild berries as the Indians gathered for themselves. 

The commissary department was organized on a semi-mili- 
tary basis with a keeper of the granary in charge. He dis- 
tributed rations to each individual or family. The unmarried 
neophytes carried their share to a common kitchen where it 
was prepared and then served at a common table. The married 
men took their rations to their homes and shared them with 
their families. 

At sunset the angel us summoned the Indians, the workmen, 
and the priests to the chapel, where the litany was sung and 
the evening blessing pronounced. This marked the ending of 
the long day of devotion to religion and labor. Each night 
found the mission a little richer and the Indian no poorer. 

The life of the Indian girls and unmarried women was some- 
what different and the echo of cheerful laughter comes down to 
us through the years. There was a low building built around 
an open court which served as a sort of nunnery under the 
supervision of a trusted old Indian woman. Here the girls and 
young women lived, weaving and spinning, and making all the 
cloth which was used at the mission. They seem to have been 
happy in this association and to have had many love affairs 
which ripened into lawful marriage with the approval of the 
priests. 

The Fathers ruled their little kingdom with a strong hand, 
which was doubtless necessary. It is easy to understand that 
discipline was indispensabh* and that the failure to maintain 
it must have resulted in speedy demoralization. Imprisonment 
was a common j)unishnient, but the priests did not hesitate to 
use the rod for minor offenses. The most serious cases were 
turned over to the military authorities at the Presidio and some- 
times resulted in the execution of the culprits by shooting. 

Alfred Robinson visited the mission at the time of its great- 
est prosperity and left the following account of the hospitality 
he enjoyed: 

Riding along, following the eoiirse of the river up the valley, 
passing on their way two or three small huts, without anything 
particular to note, they reaeherl the Mission, where they met 
the two Father Missionaries at the door, they having just re- 
turned from a walk around the premises. The visitors were 
welcomed, and alighted to have half an hour's chat before 
dinner — that is, before twelve o'clock, their usual hour for 
that meal; and acc()r<ling]y sat down on one of tiie rude benches 
so generally found at all these establishments. The author's 



68 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

frieud, being an old acquaintance of the Fathers, had consider- 
able to say to them in relation to their travels, which was of 
great interest to them. At length the church bells announced 
the hour of noon, when both the holy friars turned around, 
and knelt upon the ])ench upon which they had been sitting, 
with faces turned to the building, while three or four young 
pages knelt by their side, on the pavement, when the elder of 
the two friars commenced the Angclus Domini, in a very devout 
manner, and led the prayer, which was responded to by the 
brother friar and the pages, the ])ells of the church chiming 
an accompaniment. 

During the prayer a large fly alighted on the wall just in front 
of the Father, who, apparently without any attention to the 
prayer, was watching the course of the fly and following it with 
the large round head of hia cane, as it moved about, sometimes 
up, sometimes dow^n, sometimes to the right, sometimes to the 
left, and ready to annihilate it, when, at the closing of the 
prayer, and pronouncing the word Amen! Jesus! he brought 
his cane dow^n on the poor fly and crushed it, and then turned 
around to renew the conversation, as though nothing had trans- 
pired. This incident was amusing to the beholder, but serves 
to show the simplicity of the reverend Father, who was proba- 
bly not aware of having committed any impropriety. 

Dinner was now announced, when they entered through the 
large reception-room into the dining-room, where the table was 
spread, at which they sat down, and had an entertainment 
of the usual guisadoSf their fritos and acadoSf frijoles, and the 
universal tortilla dc luaiZy and plenty of good native wine, with 
the usual dessert of fruits peculiar to the climate; after which 
the old friars retired to take their siesta, and the author and 
his friend hurried away on their return to the town, where 
they arrived after half an hour's ride. 

The economic life of the Mission was not confined to the 
cultivation of the irrigated fields and gardens in the fertile 
valley or the simple manufacturing that went on in the quaint 
little shops around the patio. The Mission Fathers were the 
merchants, the great stockmen, and even the bankers, of their 
period. They were busy men, indeed, with their spiritual af- 
fairs, their trade, and their management of immense herds of 
livestock. Vessels came to the port in increasing numbers, trav- 
elers constantly passed along the trail from Lower California 
to the north, and ranches were gradually established in the 
mountains. Thus it happened that the mission establishment 
more and more fulfilled the function of an ordinary town as a 
trading center. There were great opportunities for making 
money, and the shrewd priests made the most of them. They 
were bent upon the enrichment of their order because this meant 
a constant increase of their power, including the power to do 
good to the gentiles. 

In those days the waters along the coast swarmed with sea- 
ottei's, a valuable fur-bearing animal. The priests encouraged 
the hunting of these animals bv Indians and others, and thus 



LIVESTOCK INDUSTRY 



69 



built up a profitable fur trade. They also bought other skius, 
usually payiug for them with t^oods from their store, and were 
thus able to make a double [>rofit on the transaction. They were 
the fii"st and best customers of the ships when they began to 
come around the Horn with cargoes from New England, and 
their store became constantly more important as a distributing 
center for all imported goods required in the country, and as 
a clearing house for surplus products available for shipment. 
They sometimes had large amounts of coin, which they kept 
beneath the tile flooring in their rooms. Their reputation for 
integrity was so high that they were implicitly trusted with the 




MISSION RELICS 



savings and property of others, and they were thus able to per- 
form a useful service as bankei's for their neighbors. 

The largest business operation conducted by the ])riests was 
in connection with the live-stock industry. They brought only 
18 head of cattle, but by the year 1800, the}- had six hundred 
cattle, six thousand sheep, and nearly nine hundred hoi'ses. Tn 
1830, the num))er of cattle had risen to fift<Hni thousand, of 
sheep to twenty thousand, and they had thousands of hogs. 
The horses which they originally bi'ought to this country were 
shipped from Spain and wen* of Arabian blood. The annunl 
harvest also reached large proportions, sometimes exceeding 
thirty thousand bushels of grain. The cattle were wastefuUy 
slaughtered, after the nuinner of the time, and w(»re considered 
chieflv valua))l<» for tallow and hides, which were sold to the 



70 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

master's of the ships coining: to the port. Only the choicest 
portions of the l)eef were used for f(K)d. 

From 1777 to 1833 — a period of fifty-six years — life flowed 
smoothly on at the Mission and the Franciscans waxed strong 
and prosperous. Two other missions were established within 
the County, at Pala and San Luis Rey, the latter being founded 
on June 13, 1798, by Father Antonio Peyri, and named in 
honor of Saint Louis, who was Louis IX. of France. These 
Missions also prospered and lent strength to the mother 
settlement in Mission Valley. The total number of baptisms 
from 1769 to 1846 at the Mission of San Diego, was 7126; of 
confirmations, 1726; of marriages, 2051. It would be inter- 
esting to know the total value of property accumulated, and 
the total amount of wealth produced, during the same period. 
These facts are not available, but we know that the half-centurv 
of rule by military and ecclesiastical goverinnent was a day of 
material greatness, as it undeniably was of marked spiritual 
achievement. 




CHAPTER V 

THE END OF FRANCISCAN RULE 

ilE FOOTING of the Franciscans in California 
rested from the beginning upon the i)ower of 
Spain. They could not have come at all with- 
out the financial and military support of the 
Spanish monarch, nor could they have re- 
mained save with the aid of his soldiers. 
When the power of the Castilian began to 
wane, it was inevitable that the Franciscan 
rule should diminish in proportion, and that even the institutions 
which they had founded should begin to crumble and, at last, 
become a mere memory with no monument except mouldering 
heaps of adobe. 

Spain's empire in Mexico lasted for three centuries. It was 
in 1521 that Cortes virtually completed his conquest, and it was 
in 1821 that Iturbide wrested the country from the feeble grasp 
of Ferdinand VII. The ^Fission of San Diego was then almost 
at the zenith of its pros])erity. and as the good Fathei's basked 
in the sunshine or looked out upon their smiling fields, 
thev fondlv believed that their works would endure to bless the 
land and enrich their order for many generations to come. They 
knew that the internal fires of revolution had been blazing in 
Mexico for more than a decade, but had little fear that the hand 
which had held the region for three hundred years would lose 
its hold, at least in their time. 

The Spanish statesmen had given the missionaries the utmost 
latitude because their scheme of converting and utilizing the 
Indian population was admirably adapted to meet the political 
necessities of the Empire in this far country. But Mexico had 
different necessities and naturally proceeded to make different 
plans. It had no time to lose in strengthening itself against the 
rising power of the United States. It could not leave so pre- 
cious a possession as California to the control of an element which, 
at best, could be but lukewarm toward the new-born power 
which had overthrown Spanish control, and thus done viohMiee 
to the great tradition of which the missions were themselves an 
important part. ^loreover. ^lexico had friends to reward as 
well as enemies to punish. Some of the men who had fought its 
battles, and who would be needed to fight its battles again, 



72 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

looked with longing eyes upon the rich dominions of the mis- 
sions and began to dream of founding great families and great 
estates. 

It is a very convenient thing to be able to pay your debts with 
other ])eo])le's property. ]\Iexico was in this fortunate position 
and proceeded to take advantage of it. In 1824 the Coloniza- 
tion Law was enacted. This authorized the government to make 
grants of unoccupied lands to ^Mexican citizens to the extent of 
eleven square leagues. Under this law thousands of acres were 
parceled out among the supporters of the government. These 
grants encroached upon the mission holdings and gave the 
Fathers their first shock of serious apprehension for the future. 
In 1832 the ^Mexican power mustered the full courage of its con- 
victions, its necessities, and its desires. It passed the Act of Sec- 
ularization, which was simply an act of confiscation, from the 
Franciscan point of view. It was the object of this legislation 
to take all the proi)erty of the missions, real and personal, and 
divide it among those who would use their wealth and influence 
for the defense and development of Mexico. The attempt of 
Governor Figiu^roa to put it into effect in 1838 was a failure, 
but it w^as gradually executed, being extended little by little 
until the dav when Mexico lost the country to the United States. 

With the adoption of the policy of secularization, the Mission 
Fathei-s knew that their long day was passing into twilight and 
that it coxdd be a (luestion of but a few \ears when thev must 
relinquish their hold upon California. Some of them were 
utterly discouraged and unwilling to attempt the continuance 
of their work. Ir^ome were franklv hastile to the new rulers and 

• 

went home to Spain. A few persisted to the last and died 
peacefully at their posts. The effect of the new order of things 
on the Indians was demoralizing. Theii' lovaltv could hardlv be 
expected to survive the shattering of priestly power. The only 
government they undei'stood was the patriarchal form, and the 
very foundation of this governmi'ut had now disappeared. Nev- 
ertheless, the Mission of San Diego lived on for more than a 
dozen years, after its ultimate downfall was clearly foreshad- 
ow(»d. It was not until 1846 that the ownei^ship of the property 
was legally and finally taken from the Church. 

The full force of the blow could no longer be staved. Mexico 
was threatened with invasion by the Ignited States and it became 
imperatively necessary that the country should be put in the 
best possible condition of defense. Thus the governors of the 
varitms states and departments were v(\sted with extraordinary 
powei's and instructed to adopt drastic measures to strengthen 
the government, (rovernoi* T*io Pico sold the missions as rapidly 
as possible in order to raise money for the war which impended. 
In June, 1846, he sold to Don Santiago Argiiello so much of the 



PASSING OF MISSIONS 73 

property of the San Diego Mission as had not already been 
granted to Mexican citizens. The deed of sale read as follows: 

Being previously authorized by the Departmental Assembly 
to alleviate the missions, in order to pay their debts and to avoid 
their total ruin; and knowing that Don Santiago Argiiello has 
rendered the government important services at all times, and 
has also given aid wiion asked, for the preservation of the legit- 
imate government and the security of the pe[>artment, without 
having received any indemnification; and, whereas, this gentle- 
man has, for his own personal benefit and that of iiis numerous 
family, asked to purchase the mission of San Diego, with all 
its lands and property belonging to it, both in town and coun- 
try, he paying fully and religiously the debts of said Mission, 
which may be established by the reports of the Committee of 
Missions, binding himself besides to provide for tiie support of 
the priests located at said Mission, and of divine worship. In 
view of all which 1 have made real sale and perpetual alien- 
ation of it forever, to Don Santiago Argiiello, according to, and 
in conformance with, what has been agreed upon, with all the 
appurtenances found and known at the time as belonging to it, 
whether consisting of lands, buildings, improved real estate, 
or cattle. 

The reader will not fail to note the pions terms in w^hich the 
instrument was drawn. Th(» object of the transfer was *'to 
alleviate '* the Mission, and to avoid its **totnl ruin." The pur- 
chaser was required to provide for the su])i)()rt of the priests 
and to maintain divine worship. These di[)loniatic phrases 
deceived no one, and least of all the priests. The idea of a 
proprietary mission dependent for its support upon the bounty 
of an individual, must have been repugnant to their souls. 
Certainly, such an arrangement could never have proven work- 
able, but it was not put to the actual test. The war came on 
with swift footsteps, and when it had passed, Mexico had gone 
the way of Spain and the Missionary Fathers had gone with 
them, so far as the dominion of California was concerned. 

What w^as the net result of Spanish dominion in San Diego 
which nominally began with the discoveries by Cabrillo in 1542 
and VLscaino in 1602, and ripened into actual occupation with 
the expedition planned by Galvez and executed by naval, mil- 
itary, civil, and missionary leaders in 1769? 

They left, of course, a ^reat mi^mory which will endure to 
the end of time and which is likely to grow rather than di- 
minish in the quality of picturesque and romantic interest. 
They left their nomenclature, and this is somehow so pleasing 
to the ear and eye of the composite race which has evolved into 
the American population of today that it seeuLs likely to last 
as the visible expression of the Spanish tradition. Not only 
does it remain in the name of the city and of landmarks to 
which it was given by the Spanish explorers and founders, but 



n 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



it bltxtiiiN pcrcuiiiiilly in many other forms, iDcliiding the names 
uf new i-esidences juul estates, fi)r which it is fre<|uentJy pre- 
ferred to iiaiiies associated with the riieial, iiatiiiiiiil, and fam- 
ily traditions of their owners. Xothiiij; could more strikingly 
illustrate the jtower of the memories of Spanish occupation 
upon the popular imagination. The same intluenee is apparent 
in architecture, and this seems to be growing and likely to 
grow more in the future. The Spanish speech still lingers and 
may do so for a long time, though it tends to disappear and 
will some tlay be no miire in evidence than the speech of other 
European peoples who had nothing to do with the early time. 




RUIK OP SAN 



Aside from this virile traditicni. expressed in the nomcn- 
elatnre and architecture of the city and i\s surrounding coun- 
try. Hie SpaniartI left nothing pcrtainitiir to his imtional life. 
But the value of this contribution to civilization should not be 
underestimated. TIappy is the land which has memories to 
cherish! Twice happy when the memories are associated with 
the pioneers of pioneers! And thrice hap|iy if, as in this ease, 
those memories chanee to be sanctified by the struggle to lighl 
the lamp of spiritual exaltation in the darkness of ignorance 
and savagery! As tinie goes on, the earliest history of San 
Diego will be n-vived in art. More and more, it will supply a 
rich theme for painting, for sculpture, and for literature. But 
the institutions which it sought to plant deep in the soil liave 



THE NET RESULT 75 

perished almost utterly. English law and English speech have 
taken the place of Spanish law and speech, and even the re- 
ligion which the founders brought apparently owes little or 
nothing of its present strength to their teaching or their build- 
ing. The Catholic Church is powerful, of course, but by no 
means as pow^erful in San Diego, whose legitimate child it was, 
as in Boston, which was established by those who deliberately 
fled from its influence. 

What shall be said of the missionary achievement? For the 
most part, the answer to this question depends upon the indi- 
vidual point of view. No mere material concjuest is to be com- 
pared with the salvation of immortal souls. The Mission 
Fathers brought thousands to the foot of the Cross and persua- 
ded them to live in accordance with religious ways. Those 
who believe that these thousands of souls would otherwise have 
been lost justly place the missionary achievement above the 
most enduring things done by the soldier, the law-giver, or the 
founder of institutions. Those who accept distinctly modem 
views of religion may hold more lightly the purely spiritual 
conquest accomplished by Junipero Serra and his fellow priests, 
yet even such must credit them with the noblest aspirations and 
must concede that the Indian population gained much in sim- 
ple moralitj" from the missionary teachings. Nor has this gain 
been wholly lost, even after Father Serra has slept for more 
than one hundred and twenty years in his grave at Monterey. 
The Indian w-as unquestionably elevated by his spiritual ex- 
perience and by his manual training, and, dubious as his con- 
dition seems todav, is still a better man because the Mission 
once flourished under the sunny skies of San Diego. 

The literature of the missions is voluminous and constantly 
increasing. For reasons already stated, it is somew^hat remote 
from the real history of San Diego. It is not the picture itself, 
but the shadowy background of the picture. Nothing more 
finely expressive of the appeal which it makes to the poetic senses 
has been written than the following extract from a sketch of 
the Mission of San Luis Rey, by Will II. Holcomb: 

To behold this beautiful structure for the first time under 
the softening effect of moonlight requires no great stretch of the 
imagination, to believe one's self among the romantic surround- 
ings of some Alcazar in old Spain. Below, among the purple 
shadows of the valley, which half conceal and yet reveal, lies 
the river, a counterpart of the Guadalquiver; ranged about are 
the hills, dreamy, indistinct, under the mystic canopy of night, 
while nearer at hand are the delicate outlines of arches, fa- 
cades, and vaulted roofs, reflecting the pearly light, and appear- 
ing half real, half visionary, against the ambient breadths of 
starless sky. The land breeze wafts down the valley from the 
mountain heights, cool and sweet, and whispers among the col- 
umns and arches, and we are tempted almost to inquire of these 



{ 



76 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

voices of the night something of the tales of adventure, of 
love, of ambitions gratified and hopes unfulfilled, which cling 
to this sacred spot, from the shadowy period of the past. 

PRIESTS OF SAN DIEGO MISSION 

1769. July 16. Mission founded by Father President Junipero Serra. 
Also present: Fathers Hernando Parron and Juan Viscaino. 

1770. Fathers Juan Crespi and Francisco Gomez had been at San Diego 
but departed with the land expedition for Monterey on July 14th. 
They returned January 24, 1770, and all five priests were pres- 
ent until February 11th, when Viscaino went south by land to 
Velicata with Rivera. On April 17th, Serra and Crespi sailed for 

Monterey with Portold (left at San Diego, Parron and Gomez, the 
former in charge). 

1771. April. The San Aiitoiiio came up from Mexico with ten friars 
and left some of them at San Diego, among them Pedro Benito 
Cambon, Francisco Dumetz, and Father Somera. Same ship took 
Gomez to Monterey. Dumetz was in charge. In July, the San 
Antonio arrived with six friars from the north, and Cambon and 
Dumetz went overland to Mexico. 

1772. May. ('respi came from the north and Dumetz returned with 
Father Tomas dc la Pena to take Cambon 's place. Sept. 27th, 
Crespi and Dumetz left for San Carlos and two friars, Usson and 
Figuer, came from Mexico. 

1773. August 30. Father Francisco Palou arrived overland from Mex- 
ico, with Fatiiors Pedro Bonito Cambon, Gregorio Amurrio, Fer- 
min Francisco Lasuon, .Tuan Prestamero, Vicente Fuster, Jose 
Antonio Murguia, and Miguel de la Campa y Cos, assigned to 
different missions. 

September .5. Paterna. Lasuen and Prestamero departed. 
October 26. Palou, Murgula, and de la Pena departed. 
This left at San Diego Luis Jdume, Vicente Fuster, and Gregorio 
Amurrio as 8ui)crnunierary. 

1774. March 3. Serra came bv sea from Mexico. With him came 
Father Pablo Mugdrtegui, who remained for a time, but later 
went north. 

Ai)ril 6. Father Serra departed for Monterey, by land. 

1775. November 5. Destruction of the Mission, Fathers Luis Jaume 
and Vicente Fuster in charge; the former killed, as related. At 
the Presidio, Fathers Lasuen and Amurrio. 

1776. July 11. Serra arrived by sea from Monterey to arrange for re- 
building the mission, 

October 17. Three friars, Fuster, liasuen, and probably Santa 
Maria, occupied the new mission. 

December. Serra de])arted the last days of the year, for the 
north, with Amurrio, and never returned. 

1777. Juan Figuer came and served to December 18, 1784, when he died 
and was buried in the church. 

178."). For about a year after Figuer 's death, Lasuen served alone. In 
November, 17S.'>, he went to San Carlos and his place at San Die- 
go was taken by Juan Mariner (arrived 1785). With him was 
associated Juan Antonio Garcia Riboo (arrived 1783), till Octo- 
ber, 1786, then Tlilario Torrens (arrived 1786). Mariner and Tor- 
rens served till the last years of the centurv. Torrens left Cal- 
ifornia at the end of 1798, and died in 1799; Mariner died at the 
Mission, January 29, 1800. 



LIST OF PRIESTS 77 

1800. Their successors were Jos6 Panella (arrived June, 1797), and Jo86 
Barona (arrived May, 1798). Pedro de San Jos^ Est^van was 
supernumerary, April, 1796, to July, 1797. Panella was accused 
of cruelty to the neophytes and was reprimanded by President 
Lasuen. He left the country in 180.3. Barona remained as 
minister throughout the decade (1800-1810). Panella was replaced 
for about a year after 1803 by Mariano Payeras, and then Jose 
Bernardo S.inchez took the place in 1804. Pedro de la Cueva, 
from Mission San Jose, was here for a short time in 1806, and 
Jose Pedro Panto came in September, 1810. 

1810. Father Sanchez continued to serve until the spring of 1820, when 
he was succeeded by Vicente Pascual Oliva. Panto died in 1812, 
and Fernando Martin took his place. 

** Panto, '' says Bancroft, **was a rigorous disciplinarian and 
severe in his punishments. One evening in November, 1811, liis 
soup was poisoned, causing vomiting. His cook, Nazario, was 
arrested and admitted having put the *yerba,' powdered 
cuchasquelaai, in the soup with a view to escape the Father's in- 
tolerable floggings, having received in succession fifty, twenty- 
five, twenty-four, and twenty-five lashes in the twenty-four hours 
preceding his attempted revenge. There is much reason to sup- 
pose that the friar's death on June 3()th of the next year was 
attributable to the poisoning.'' 

The new Mission Church was dedicated November 12, 1813 
(this is the building whose ruins yet remain). The blessing was 
pronounced by Jos^ Barona, of San Juan. The first sermon was 
by Geronimo Boscaua, of San liuis, the second by the Dominican 
Tomds Ahumada, of San Miguel, and Lieutenant Ruiz acted as 
sponsor. 

1820. Father Martinez served for a time in 1827. 

1830. Fathers Oliva and Martin continued in charge. Martin died Oc- 
tober 19, 1838. He was a native of Robledillo, Spain, born May 
26, 1770. He was a Franciscan, and arrived at San Diego July 
6, 1811. He was regarded as an exemplary frey. He was 
one of the few missionaries who took the oath of allegiance to 
Mexico. 

1840. Oliva remained alone, and was the last missionary to occupy the 
mission, till August, 1846. Upon the secularization of the mis- 
sions in 1835, Jose Joaquin Ortega was placed in charge as major- 
domo or administrator, and 1840 he was replaced by Juan M. 
Osuna. Others served at different times. Some Indians lingered 
at the place, and in 1848 Philip Crosthwaite leased the Mission. 
Oliva went first to San Luis Rey, then to San Juan Capistrano, 
where he died in January, 1848. 




PART SECOND 

When Old Town was San Diego 





CHAPTER I. 

LIFE ON PRESIDIO HILL UNDER THE SPANISH FLAG. 

.OR MORE than a hundred years Old Town 
was San Diego. It began with the founding 
of the fort and mission in July, 1769; it 
ended, as a place of real consequence, with 
the fire of April, 1872, which destroyed most 
of the business part of the town and turned 
the scale decisively in favor of the new set- 
tlement which had sprung up at Horton's 
Addition, or South San Diego, as it was then called. It is rare 
that two historical eras are so clearly marked on the face of 
the earth as in this case. The site of Old San Diego is a thing 
apart from the location of the present city, just as the life of 
the older time is separated from that of the present bj^ a space 
of years. And yet, it was in the soil of Old San Diego that 
the seed of the present city was planted and took root, and 
it was in that mother settlement that civilization began on 
the Pacific Coast of the United States. 

From 1769 to about 1830 — a period of over sixty years — 
San Diego lived within the adobe walls of its garrison on 
Presidio Hill and became a famous dot on the map of the 
world. Nothing now remains on Presidio Hill to show the 
casual observer that it was ever an\i^^hing but a vacant plot 
of ground. Weeds cover the earth, wild flowers bloom in their 
season, and always the ice-plant hangs in matted festoons from 
the scattered mounds of earth. A closer examination of these 
mounds, however, shows them to be arranged in something 
like a hollow square. The soil, too, is found to be full of frag- 
ments of red tile and to show the unmistakable signs of long 
trampling by human feet. Looking more closely at the 
mounds, beneath their covering of weeds and earth, one finds 
the foundations of old walls built of thin red tile and adobe 
bricks. These remains are all that is left of the Spanish Pre- 
sidio of San Diego. 

Standing on this historic spot, one is moved to wonder how 
the manifold activities of the ecclesiastical and military affairs 
of the Southern District, and of the political and social cen- 
ter of one of the four important towns in Upper California, 
were ever carried on for so many years upon this little space. 



S2 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

The eomniaudaut 's residence was the principal building. It 
was situated in the center of the presidial enclosure and over- 
looked the garrison, the Indian village, the bay and surround- 
ing country. On the east side of the square were the chapel, 
cemetery, and storehouses; the guard-house was near the 
gate on the south, and the oflBcers* quarters were ranged 
around the sides of the square. The whole was enclosed, at 
first with a wooden stockade, and later with a high adobe wall. 

It would seem that half a century of life should mean 
a great deal to any community, even to a frontier outpost on 
the edge of the world; but to San Diego, in the period with 
which this chapter deals, it meant very little. Of the mission 
activities the men and women at the Presidio were mere spec- 
tators, while only far echoes of events in the outside world 
came to their eai-s. They had enough respect for the Indians 
to keep well within the shelter of the garrison for all those 
years. Even when they went down into the valley to culti- 
vate a little patch of soil, they took care to keep well within 
range of the guns. They led a lazy, dreamy life, not without 
some social diversions, yet mostly spent in attending to mil- 
itary and religious routine. As the years wore on and the 
nineteenth century dawned, the visits of foreign ships became 
more frequent. These visits must have seemed very grateful 
to the inhabitants, especially those few which were attended 
with sufficient excitement to break the monotony and lend a 
momentary zest to the stagnant life of the community. 

The Spanish soldiers were usually men of good character. 
Among them were many cadets and young men of good fam- 
ilies who had adopted a military career, whose birth and edu- 
cation entitled them to certain exemptions and i)rivileges, and 
who afterward became distinguished in civil life. Officers 
could not marry without the king's consent, and to secure 
this, those beneath the rank of captain had to show that they 
had an income outside their pay. The chief officer was the 
commandant. Discipline was severe. The old Spanish Arti- 
cles of War prescri])ed the death penalty for so many trivial 
offences that, as another writer has remarked, it was really 
astonishing that any soldier could escape execution. There is 
no record of any military executions at San Diego, however, 
except of Indians. 

The principal duties of the soldiers were to garrison the forts, 
to stand guard at the missions, to care for the horses and cat- 
tle, and to carry dispatches. Both officers and men had usually 
a little time at their disposal, which they were allowed to 
employ in pro\ndin£: for their families. Some were shoemakers, 
others, tailors or woodcutters; but after the first few years 
most of them seem to have <riven their leisure hours to agri- 



PLAN OF PRESIDIO HILL 83 

culture. The pHv was small and subject to many vexatious 
dednctions. Supplies were hrouKlit by ship from Mexico and 
the cost wan deducted from the men's pay. 



> 

< 

r 
r 
> 

m 




ROUGH PLAN OF PRESIDIO HILL (Drawn from descriptionB) 



The military establishment i>n I'residio Hill was always the 
weakest in the department. The nide earthworks thrown up 
in July, 1769. jrrew but slowly. In Aiij;iist there seem to have 
been but four soldiers able to assist in repellinfr the first Indian 
attack. But when Perez returned, in the following March, ffood 



84 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

use was made of the time. The temporary stockade was com- 
pleted and two bronze cannon mounted, one pointing toward 
the harbor, the other toward the Indian village. Houses of 
wood, rushes, tule, and adobe were constructed. Three years 
later four thousand adobe bricks had been made and some 
stones collected for use in foundations. A foundation had also 
been laid for a church ninety feet long, but work upon this 
building had been suspended because of delay in the arrival 
of the supply ship. 

When the mission establishment was removed up the river, 
all buildings at the Presidio, except two rooms reserved for 
the use of visiting friars and for the storage of mission sup- 
plies, were given up to the military. In September of this 
year there was some trouble with troops which had been sent 
up from Sinaloa. The following year, at the time of the destruc- 
tion of the mission, related in a previous chapter, the force at 
the Presidio consisted of a corporal and ten men. In the panic 
caused by this tragedy, all the stores and families at the Presidio 
were hastily removed to the old friers' house, the roof of that 
building was covered with earth to prevent its being set on fire, 
and the time of waiting for the arrival of reinforcements was 
spent in fear and trembling. 

The work of collecting stones to be used in laying the foun- 
dations for the new adobe wall to replace the wooden stock- 
ade was begun in 1778 and the construction of the wall soon 
followed. The population of the Presidio was then about one 
hundred and twenty-five. Small parties of soldiers arrived 
and departed, and some oflPort was expended in attempts to 
find improved routes of travel through the country. In 1782, 
the old church within the presidial enclosure was burned. Two 
years later, the regulations required the presidial force to con- 
sist of five corporals and forty-six soldiers, six men being always 
on guard at the ^Fission. 

The visit of the famous English navigator, George Vancou- 
ver, in the Discovery in 1793, was the most important event 
breaking the monotony of these early years. His was the first 
foreign vessel that ever entered San Diego harbor. He arrived 
on the 27th day of November and remained twelve days. His 
presence disturbed and alarmed the Spanish officials, who did 
not relish the sight of the British flag in Californian waters. 
The San Diego commandant, however, treated him with cour- 
tesy and relaxed the rigid port regulations in his favor, so 
far as lay within his power. Vancouver gave Father Lasuen, 
of the San Juan Capistrano Mission, a barrel-organ for his 
church, made some nautical observations, and corrected his 
charts. But the most valuable results of his visit, so far as 



WEAKNESS OF THE PRESIDIO 85 

this history is concerned, are his shrewd obser\'ations upon the 
Presidio of San Diej^o and the whole Spanish military estab- 
lishment in Upper California. He says the soldiers **are 
totally incapable of making any resistance against a foreign 
invasion, an event which is by no means improbable/' The 
Spanish officials knew this; the relations between England and 
Spain, too, were strained and war broke out not long after. 
It is no wonder that Vancouver was regarded with dread and 
suspicion. He goes on : 



The Spanish Monarchy retains this extent of country 
under its authority by a force that, had we not been eye- 
witnesses of its Insignificance in many instances, we should 
hardly have given credit to the possibility of so small a body 
of men keeping in awe and under subjection the natives of 
this country, without resorting to harsh or unjustifiable 
measures. 

And again: 

The Presidio of San Diego seemed to be the least of the 
Spanish establishments. It is irregularly built, on very un- 
even ground, which makes it liable to some inconveniences, 
without the obvious appearance of any object for selecting 
such a spot. With little difliculty it might be rendered a 
j)lace of considerable strength, by establishing a small force 
at the entrance of the port; where at this time there were 
neither works, guns, houses, or other habitations nearer than 
the Presidio, five miles from the port, and where they have 
only three small pieces of brass cannon. 

The ** three small pieces of brass cannon" at the Presidio 
were somewhat like the toy cannon now used on yachts for 
firing salutes. One of the original San Diego Presidio cannon 
is now in the Coronel collection at Los Angeles, and a cut of 
it appears herein. These cannon were far less effective 
than a modem rifle, but, mounted in the bastions of the old 
Presidio, they served their purpose of making a loud noise and 
awing the Indians, who called them ** creators of thunder." 

Vancouver's visit, with its annoying revelation of the weak 
state of the country's defenses, led to the strengthening of 
the military arm. In the same year, upon the Governor's 
urgent request, the Viceroy ordered the Presidio to be repaired. 
A fort was also projected on what is now^ known as Ballast 
Point, then called Point Guijarros (cobblestones), the same 
spot which Vancouver's quick eye had noted as the strategic 
defensive point. Plans were drawn in 1795 for installing there 
a battery of ten guns, but the work proceeded slowly and was 
not completed for five years or more. 



THE FIRST AMERICANS 87 

In November, 1796, the priests were called upon to perform 
the ceremony of blessing the esplanade, powder magazine, and 
flag at the Presidio, and a salute was fired in honor of the 
event. There were neither flags, nor materials for making 
them, in Upper California, and they were therefore sent from 
Mexico This marks the beginning of the fortifications proper 
on Presidio Hill, on the point of the hill below^ the Presidio 
walls. This fort was maintained, in a small way. during the 
Spanish administration, and to a certain extent afterward. 
Nothing whatever of the site now remains, the earth forming 
the point of the hill having been hauled away and used by 
the government engineers in making the embankment for turn- 
ing the San Diego River, in 1877. Some of this earth ^vas also 
used for grading the county road across the valley from then end 
of the Old Town bridge, in later years. These excavations also 
took large quantities of earth from the north side of the hill, the 
extent being measured by the widening of the road from a 
narrow track to its present width. During the year in which 
the fort on the hill was built, twenty-five soldiers and six artil- 
lerymen w^re added to the garrison, making the total force 
nearlv ninetv men. 

The end of the eighteenth century was now close at hand 
and it brought a few events of unusual interest to the quiet 
community. In 1798 the soil of San Diego was first trod- 
den by Americans. Four sailors had been left by an American 
ship in Louver California, whether by accident or design is 
unknown. They tramped to San Diego and applied at the Pre- 
sidio for food and shelter, as well as for a chance to take the 
first opportunity to sail in the direction of home. They were 
not very hospitably welcomed by the Spaniards, w^ho regarded 
them with some suspicion, but there was nothing to do except 
to care for them until a ship .sailed for ^lexico. In the mean- 
time, they were given a chance to earn their bed and board by 
working on the fortifications. Later, they were sent to San 
Bias. The Americans bore the names of William Katt, Barnabv 
Jan, and John Stephens, and w^re natives of Boston. They 
were accompanied bv Gabriel Boisse. a Frenchman, who had 
been left behind, like themselves, from the American ship 
Gallant, — a treatment hardly in keening with the name. 

The next year the English sloop-of-war Mercedes paid a brief 
visit to San Diego, but sailed aw^ay without any hostile demon- 
stration. The last year of the old century found the Presidio 
with a population of one hundred and sixty-seven soids, mostly 
soldiers and their families, according to official report made 
to the Viceroy. During that year a number of foundling chil- 
dren were sent from Lower California, and eight of them 
were assigned to San Diego. As one of them inelogantlv re- 



i 



88 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

marked, long afterward, they were distributed **iike puppies 
among the families." There is no reason to suppose, how- 
ever, that the}^ were not well eared for. 

With the year 1800 the Yankee trader began to east his 
shadow before him. It was the palmy day of Boston's cap- 
tains of commerce, when they used to load their ships with 
the products of New England ingenuity and send them forth 
upon the seas bound for now^here in particular, but looking for 
good bargains in exchange for their cargoes. About all that 
California had to offer at that time was the trade in furs, 
chiefly those of the sea otter Avhich, as we have seen in previ- 
ous pages, was a considerable source of profit to the Mission 
Fathers. These skins were in great demand and the govern- 
ment tried in vain to monopolize the business. The command- 
ants at all the ports did what they could to prevent foreign 
ships from getting any of the furs, but the Yankee skippers 
were enterprising and found many a weak spot in the Span- 
ish lines. 

The first American ship to enter San Diego Bay bore the 
good old English name of Betsy. She arrived on the 25th of 
August, 1800, in command of Captain Charles Winsliip. She 
carried nineteen men and ten guns, remained ten days, secured 
wood and ^vater, and then departed for San Bias. In June, 
1801, Captain Ezekiel Hubbell came in the Enterprise, of New 
York, w^ith ten guns and twenty-one men. All he asked was 
wood and water, witli which he set sail after a stay of a few 
days. If either of these earliest American captains succeeded 
in doing any illicit trade at San Diego, they kept the secret 
successfully, leaving not so much as a rumor of scandal behind 
them. Such was not the case with those who came shortlv after. 

Captain John Brown arrived on Februarv^ 26, 1803, in the 
Alexander, of Boston. He was bent on getting otter skins, 
though he failed to mention the fact to the Spanish command- 
ant. On the contrars% he told a touching tale of sailors dow^n 
with the scurvy, on the strength of which he was permitted to 
land, though required to keep away from the fort. He was 
supplied with fresh provisions and, in vie^v of the condition 
of his crew, granted permission to stay eight days. In the 
meantime, the wily captain was buying all the skins offered 
by Indians and soldiers. On the fifth evening of his stay, the 
commandant sent a party on board the Alexander to search 
for contraband. The search was rewarded, 491 skins coming 
to light. The Yankee was invited to leave San Diego without 
ceremony; also without the otter skins. There was nothing to 
do but to comply, unless it was also to srrumble, w^hich the cap- 
tain did. lie complained that his ship had been visited by 
a rabble before anv demand was made for the surrender of 



AFFAIR OF THE LELIA BYRD 89 

the furs. He also complained that the soldiers relieved him 
of other goods to which they had no rigrhtful claim. The evi- 
dence seems clear, however, that Captain John Brown, of 
Boston, abused the Spanish hospitality by perpetratint; the first 
Yankee trick in the history of San Diego. 

The Lelm Byrd dropped anchor in the Bay on March 17th, 
having sailed by the fort on Ballast Point without arousing 
any protest. But promptly the next day the commandant of 
the Presidio appeared on board with an escort of twelve sol- 
diers. He made himself acquainted with the Captain, William 
Shaler, and with Richard J. Cleveland, mate and part-owner 
of the ship, a character who gains much additional interest 
from the fact that he was a relative of Daniel Cleveland, a 
prominent citizen of San Diego. Captain Cleveland left a 
good account of the exciting events precipitated by the pres- 
ence of his ship. Among other things, he described the com- 
mandant as an offensively vain and pompous man, but it is 
possible that the captain's unsatisfied desire for otter skins 
may have prejudiced his opinion in the matter. The com- 
mandant agreed to furnish needed supplies, but informed the 
visitors that when these were delivered they must promptly 
depart. They were expressly forbidden to attempt any trad- 
ing and five men were left as a guard to see that this injunc- 
tion was enforced. Three days later, the commandant again 
visited the ship, received his pay for the supplies, and wished 
his visitors a prosperous voyage. 

The Yankee crew, in the meantime, had been ashore, visited 
the fort at Ballast Point, and made the acquaintance of the 
corporal in charge of the batterj^, Jose Velasquez. Thus they 
learned that the commandant had on hand something like a 
thousand confiscated otter skins — which he would not sell. The 
corporal hinted, however, that he might be able to deliver some 
of the forbidden goods, obtained from other sources. Captain 
Cleveland was ready for the trade and sent a boat ashore that 
night for the skins. The first trip was successful, but a second 
boat failed to return. When morning came, the Yankee cap- 
tain decided on vigorous action. He disarmed the Spanish 
guards who had been left on his ship, sent them below, and 
went ashore with four armed men. It was found that the crew 
of the second boat, w^hich had failed to return the previous 
night, had been captured by a party of mounted soldiers, headed 
by the commandant himself. They had been bound hand and 
foot and compelled to lie on the shore, where they were cap- 
tured, all night under guard. 

In his account of the affair Captain Cleveland says: **0n 
landing, we ran up to the guard, and, presenting our pistols. 



90 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

ordered them instantly to release our men from their ligatures.. 

This order was readily complied with by the three 

soldiers w^ho had been guarding them ; and, to prevent mischief, 
we took away their arms, dipped them in water, and left them 
on the beach/' 

It w^as now necessary for the Americans to make their escape 
as quickly as possible. The men were full of fight, but their 
situation seemed desperate. There were only fifteen men, all 
told, in the crew, and the armament consisted of six three- 
pounders. Their inspection of Fort Guijarros had shown that 
it contained a battery of six nine-pounders, with an abundant 
supply of powder and ball. The force was probably suflficient 
to work the guns, although Cleveland is doubtless mistaken in 
thinking the ship opposed by at least a hundred men. He 
remarks that while the preparations for flight were making on 
board ship, all was bustle and animation on shore, and that 
both horse and foot were flocking to the fort; and it is a fair 
inference that most of this crowd w^re mere spectators. 

The diflBculties in the situation of the Americans were much 
increased bv various circumstances. It took time to hoist the 
anchor and get up sail. There was only a slight land breeze 
blowing, and the Spaniards were able to fire two shots at the 
ship, one a blank shot and the second a solid one, before they 
began to move. They w^ere under fire fully three-quarters of 
an hour before arriving near enough to reach the fort with 
their small guns. In the hope of restraining the Spanish fire, 
the guard were yilaced in the most exposed and conspicuous 
stations in the ship. Here they stood and frantically pleaded 
with their countrymen to cease firing, but withwit avail. At 
every discharge they fell upon their faces and showed them- 
selves, naturally enough, in a state of collapse. As soon as^ 
they came within range, the Americans discharged a broadside 
at the fort from their six small guns, and at once saw^ numbers 
of the garrison scrambling out of the back of the fort and run- 
ning away up the hill. A second broadside was discharged, and 
after that no one could be seen at the fort except one man who 
stood upon the ramparts and waved his hat. 

There is no record of any blood being shed in this first ** Bat- 
tle of San Diego,'' although the ship was considerably damaged. 
Her rigging w^as stnick several times early in the action, and 
w^hile abreast of the fort in the narrow channel several balls 
struck her hull, one of which was '*betw^een wHnd and water." 
Safe out of the harbor, the terrified guard, w^ho expected noth- 
ing less than death, were set on shore. Here thev relieved 
their feelings, first by falling on their knees in prayer, and then 
by springing up and shouting, '^Vivan, vivan los Americanos!*^ 



VALUE OF OTTER SKINS 




There is no doubt that Corporal Velaiiqnez aud his men did 
everything in their power to sink the Lelia Byrd. The battery 
was stiimilated by the presence of the fiery commandant, and, 
perhaps, the corporal thoiifrht it pnident to make a showin;^ of 
zeal, in view of his previous conduct. Captain Cleveland ex- 
presses the opinion that the contraband skins were offered theui 
treacherously, for the express purpose of involving them in 
difficulties. It is a fact, however, that the corporal was placed 
under arrest for his part in the two affaii-s of the Alejander 
and the Lclia Byrd, accused of enga^ng in forbidden trade. 
The priest in charge of the Mission of San Luis Bey also wi-ote 
the commandant and asked for the return of one hundred and 
seventy skins which his Indian neophytes IukI smuggled an 
hoard the Alexavder. doubtless by his own direction ; but he was 
refnsed. 

The animation of the controversy which raged over these 
otter skins, actnall.\' ending in a battle between an American 
ship and the Spanish fort, naturally suggests a question as to 
what .they were worth in dollars and cents. The (|uestion is 
rather difficult to answer, because the value of these furs fluc- 
tuated over a wide range at different times and varied again 



92 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

with the different markets in which they were bought and sold. 
It is probable that the thousand skins at that time in posses- 
sion of the commandant were worth at San Diego not far from 
$7,000 or $8,000, and that they could have been sold in China 
for five or ten times that amount. The margin of profit which 
could have been made on a successful transaction would have 
represented a good fortune, for those days, for the owners of 
the Lelia Byrd, And now comes the melancholy part of the 
story — melancholy or ludicrous, as the reader pleases. After 
all the trouble they had made, those valuable furs never did 
anybody good. They rotted before they could be legally dis- 
posed of and three years later were thrown into the sea! But 
the dignity of Spain had boon vindicated. 

The affair of the Lelia Byrd, which caused a tremendous^ 
excitement at the time, was long talked of on the Pacific Coast. 
They were still gossiping about it when Richard Henry Dana 
visited San Dies^o, thirtv-three vears later. The storv was 
always told in a way to reflect great credit upon the Ameri- 
cans, though it is likely that they would have preferred less 
credit — and the otter skins. 

In January, 1804, Captain Joseph O'Cain, on a trading expe- 
dition in the O^Cain, ventured to call and ask for provisions. 
He had been mate of the Enterprise when she was at San Diego, 
three years earlier. He had no passport and his request was 
refused. While his ship was in the harbor, a negro sailor 
named John Brown deserted from her and was afterward sent 
to San Bias. Probably he was the first negro ever seen in San 
Diego. There is no record of any American visitors in 1805, 
but there was much perturbation in Spain and Spanish- 
America respecting the supposed designs of the United States 
upon California. 

T'^pon Governor Arrillaga's arrival, early in 1806, more strin- 
gent measures wore taken to prevent contraband trade. It had 
become something of a custom for the American trading ships 
to avoid the ports and, by standing off and sending boats 
ashore, to carrv' on their trade at will. The Peaeoek, Captain 
Kimball, anchored off San Juan Capistrano in April, ostensibly 
for the purpose of securing provisions. Four men were sent 
ashore in a boat, but they were seized and sent to San Diego. 
The ship soon after appearing off the harbor, the men broke 
jail and endeavored to rejoin her, but without success. They 
were therefore obliged to return to the Presidio and later were 
sent to San Bias. The names of these men were : Tom Kilven, 
mate ; a Frenchman, boatswain ; Bias Limcamk and Bias T ame, 
sailors from Boston. They were the first Americans to occupy^ 
a prison in Saji Diego. 



TROUBLE WITH O'CAIN 93 

In the siuimier of this year another craft whose name is not 
known with certainty, but which is said to have been under 
the command of Captain O'Cain, was off the coast and gave 
the San Diego military establishment some trouble and a good 
deal of fright. The Spanish accounts call her the Seizos. and 
it is possible she was the Racer, which was here in July. 
The captain, having asked for supplies and an opportunity to 
make repairs and been refused, went to Todos Santos, in Lower 




BURIAL OF JAMES O. PATTIE ON PRESIDIO HILL 

tul. Idvinc twcn made from manory to ilLusU 



See Chapter IV. 



California, where he took water forcibly and made prisoners 
of three guards who had been sent to watch his movements. 
He then came back and endeavored to exchange his prisoners 
for the four men from the Peacock; this failing, he threatened 
to attack and destroy the fort and Presidio. Hurried prepara- 
tions were made for meeting the attack, but Captain O'Cain 
thought better of the matter and sailed away, releasing hia 
prisonw^. The Racer was at San Diego again in 1807, and the 



94 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



Mercury. Captain George Ejrea, in the foilowinir year. These 
were the last foreign ships which came for several years. 

Again the annak of the quiet years grow scanty. The mil- 
itary fonre fluctuated slightly, officials came and went, quar- 
relled and liecame reconciled, and the ehh and flow of frontier 
life went on with scarcely a ripple. 

In 1804 the siim of $688 was set apart by the Viceroy for the 
construction of a flatboat, tweiit.v-five feet long, to be used as 
a means of transportation between Fort Gnijarros and the Pre- 





1 



JUDGE WITHERBY'S CHAIR 



A genuine specimen of miuion furniture, made when the mis- 
ions were in their slory. H was used for many yeats by Judse 
). 3. Witherby and Is now in Department One of San Diego Super- 



sidio. This boat was actually built and used many years. Evi- 
dently the San Diego river had not then flUed in the tide lands 
near Old Town. This l>oat was wrecked at Los Adobes in the 
latter part of the year 1827, and in the following year the gov- 
ernor ordered that its timbers should be used for building a 
wharf. In 1812 some soldiers were arrested on a charge of being 
engaged in a plot to revolt and seize the post. Governor Pio 
Pico in his manuscript History of California says that his father. 



THE BOUCHARD SCARE 95 

Sergeant Jose Maria Pico, was one of the accused men, and that 
three of them died in prison. 

The struggle for Mexican independence in the decade from 
1811 to 1821, caused very little disturbance in Upper California. 
The uncertainty of the soldiers' pay and the irregularity in the 
arrival of the supply ships were keenly felt ; but the archives of 
the period are almost silent on the subject of the revolution, 
knowledge of which seems to have been purposely suppressed. 
Officials were blamed for their negligence, and there was much 
unrest and complaint, but the department as a whole, both mil- 
itary and ecclesiastical, was loyal to Spain. The sufferings of 
the soldiers were severe. Their w-ants could only be supplied by 
the missions, which took in exchange for their produce orders on 
the treasury of Spain which they knew might never be paid. 
At the Presidio these supplies were traded to foreign ships and 
sometimes disposed of by less regular methods. Governor Arril- 
laga importuned the Viceroy in vain on the subject of the neces- 
sities of the soldiers, and by 1814 the dependence of the military 
upon the missions was complete. At his visit in 1817, Governor 
Sola found the Presidio buildings in a ruinous condition, but 
apparently nothing was done toward restoring them under the 
brief remainder of Spanish rule. 

In March of this same year, there was a slight revival of for- 
eign trade following upon the visit of Captain James Smith Wil- 
cox, w^ith the Traveller. lie came from the North where he had 
sold cloth to the officials for the Presidios and brought with him 
the share assigned to San Diego. On his departure he took a 
cargo of grain for Loreto, — the first cargo of grain exported 
from California in an American vessel. In June he returned 
and did some trading up and down the coast, seeming to enjoy 
the confidence of the authorities in an unusual degree. 

In December, 1818, occurred the episode of the Bouchard 
scare, which made a deep impression. Captain Hippolyte Bou- 
chard came to the California Coast with two vessels which he had 
fitted out at the Hawaiian Islands as privateers, flying the flag 
of Buenos Ayres. He was regarded by the Spaniards as a pirate, 
although his conduct scarcely justifies so harsh a term. What 
his designs were is not clearly known. He may have intended 
to seize Upper California. The expedition appears to have been 
a feature of the wars then raging between Spain and the South 
American countries, the latter employing the methods of priva- 
teers, which at that time were recognized by the laws of nations. 

After committing some depredations at the north, particularly 
at Monterey, it was reported that the two ships of Bouchard 
were approaching the Mission of San Juan Capistrano. The 
Commandant at San Diego therefore sent Lieutenant San- 
tiago Argiiello with thirty men to assist in its defense. When 



96 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Argiiello arrived he found that the Fathers had removed a part 
of the church property and concealed it, and he and his men 
fell to and did all they could toward completing the work. 
Bouchard arrived the next day and demanded supplies, w^hich 
Argiiello refused. Re-enforcements soon arrived, and after much 
bluster Bouchard drew off without venturing to give battle, but 
not before some damage had been done. For this damage and 
certain other irregularities the San Juan Capistrano Mission 
Fathers accused Argiiello. These charges were the cause of much 
bad feeling and voluminous correspondence, but General Guerra, 
who was friendly to the friars, expressed the opinion that the 
charges were merely trumped up by the priests to cover their 
own neglect of dut}'. 

Extensive preparations had been made at San Diego to receive 
Captain Bouchard, even down to such details as red-hot cannon 
balls. The women and children were sent away to Pala for 
safety. But the insur<rent vessels passed by without stopping, 
and all was soon serene aofain. When the news of this attack 
reached the Viceroy, he determined to re-enforce the ITpper Cal- 
ifornia presidios, at any cast, although he was in extreme diffi- 
culties, himself, on account of the civil war then raging in Mex- 
ico. He accordingly managed to send a detachment of k hun- 
dred cavalr\Tnen, which arrived at San Diego on the 16th of Sep- 
tember the following year, and about half of them remained here. 
They were fairly well armed and brought money for the pay- 
ment of expenses. 

Up to 1819, the military force at the Presidio was about fifty- 
five men, besides a detail of twenty-five soldiers at the Mission, 
and twenty invalids living at Los Angeles or on ranchos. In that 
year the number was increased to one hundred and ten, and in 
1820 the total population of the district wa.s about four hun- 
dred and fiftv. In August of this vear the British whaler Di^- 
covery put in for provisions — the only foreign ship for several 
years, and Captain Ruiz got into trouble by allowing her com- 
mander to take soundings of the bay. 

At the close of the Spanish rule, San Diego was still a sleepy 
little military ])ost on a far frontier. The fortifications were 
dilapidated, the soldiers in rags and destined to lose their large 
arrears of pay, and the invalids their pensions. The missions 
had large possessions, but w^ere impoverished by the enforced 
support of the military for many years. Commerce was dead 
and agriculture scarcely begun. But a better day was at hand. 

LIST OF SPANISH AND MEXICAN MILITARY COMMANDANTS 

AT SAN DIEGO, 1769-1840. 

Lieutenant Pedro Pages, military commandant of California, July, 
1770, to May, 1774. 



LIST OF COMMANDANTS 97 

Liieutenant Jo86 Francisco Ortega, from July, 1771; made lieutenant 
and put in formal charge, 1773; continued till 1781. 

Lieutenant Jos^ de Ziiniga, September 8, 1781, to October 19, 1793. 

Lieutenant Antonio Grajera, Oct. 19, 1793, to Aug. 23, 1799. 

Lieutenant Jos6 Font, temporary commandant of military post, rank- 
ing Rodriguez, Aug. 23, 1799, to 1803. 

Lieutenant Manuel Rodriguez, acting commandant of the company 
from Aug. 23, 1799, till 1803, when he became commandant of the 
post and so continued till late in 1806. 

Lieutenant Francisco Maria Ruiz, acting commandant from late in 
1806 till 1807. 

Lieutenant Jos^ de la Guerra y Noriega, for a short time in 1806-1807. 

Captain Jos6 Raimundo Carrillo, from Jatc in 1807 till 1809. 

Lieutenant Francisco Maria Ruiz, lieutenant and acting commandant 
from 1809 till 1821; then captain and commandant. 

Captain Ignacio del Corral, nominally commandant from 1810 to 1820, 
but never came to California. 

Lieutenant Jo86 Maria Kstudillo, Oct. 23, 1820, to Sept., 1821. 

Captain Francisco Maria Ruiz, 8opt., 1821, to 1827, when he retired 
at age of 73. 

Lieutenant Jos6 Maria Estndillo, from early in 1827 to April 8, 1830. 

Lieutenant Santiago ArgiioUo, from April 8, 1830, to 1835. 

Captain Augustin V. Zamorano, from 1835 to 1840; was here only dur- 
ing 1837-8 and never assumed command of the company. 

Captain Pablo de la Portilla was nominally commandant of the post 
by seniority of rank, whenever jjresent, from lS3r) until he left 
California in 1838. 





CHAPTER II. 

BEGINNINGS OF AGRICULTURE AND COMMERCE. 

HE range steer was the first historical char- 
acter in the commercial life of San Diego. 
He it was who drew the ships from far-off 
New England; furnished material for an 
export trade with the United States, Mexico, 
South America, and the Sandwich Islands; 
and even laid the foundations of social life 
at Old Town by supplyin<r an interest to at- 
tract and support a population, including some families of large 
means, when the military society began to pass away. Every 
early visitor to San Diogo refers to the hide-houses which stood 
out conspicuously near La Playa and which, for many years, 
served as the emblem of its commercial importance. The trade 
in hides and tallow was the significant thing during that quarter 
of a century — 1821 to 1846 — in which San Diego rested under 
the Mexican flag. The cultivation of the soil was a different 
storv, and one full of human interest. 

The members of the first expedition of Spanish settlers 
brought seed with them from Mexico and it was planted in the 
fall of 1769 on the river bottom, directly opposite Presidio 
Hill, probably at a place now known as Serrano's field. This 
first crop was a total failure — the ground was too low and the 
winter rise of the stream in 1770 destroyed the grain. The 
second crop was also a disappointment. It was planted too 
far away from the stream to be irrigated and, as it was a season 
of light rainfall, only a small (piantity of maize and of beans 
was harvested. The third year the scene of operations was 
moved up the valley to a place called Nuestra Sefiora del Pilar, 
near the site subsecjuently occupied by the Mission. The result 
was not immediately satisfactory, as only about twenty bushels 
of wheat were harvested, but the priests now bent their minds 
to the task in earnest, worked out crude methods of irrigation, 
and finally established their agriculture successfully. By 1790 
they were raising fifteen hundred bushels of grain annually, 
and the production rapidly increased. 

There is no record of any further attempts at agriculture in 
the Eighteenth Centur>\ If any of the soldiers tried it, they 
probably had a varied experience. 



THE FIRST GARDENS 99 

It was the Spanish soldiera who made the first gardens at 
Old Town. Doubtless as they looked down from Presidio Hill 
they had an eye for choice spots of land where they would one 
day make a comfortable hcmie for their old age and live under 
their own vine and fig-tree, in the literal sense of the term. 
The very fii'st house in Old Town was doubtless the tule hut of 
a retired soldier. And the pioneer of successful gardeners was 
Captain Francisco Maria Ruiz. He planted the spot which 
afterwards came to be known as Rose's Garden, and his pears, 
olives, and pomegranates lx)re goodly crops for seventy-five or 
eighty years. These trees were planted early in the last century 
and it is only a few years since the last survivors of them, which 
happened to be pear trees, were removed. This pioneer garden 
was in the same block as the residence of George Lyons. The 
olive trees at the Mission, and the famous old palms at the foot 
of Presidio Hill, were the only plantings which antedated the 
orchard of Captain Ruiz. 

There is no possible doubt that the two old palms were the 
first ever planted in California, and as such they constitute a 
most valuable and interesting historical exhibit. The seeds from 
which they sprang were a part of that remarkable outfit with 
which Galvez had thoughtfully supplied his expedition for the 
conquest of the new empire. They were planted in 1769, and 
there is good evidence that they bore a crop of dates in 1869, 
in honor of their one-hundredth birthday. There is a tradition 
that they never bore a crop earlier than that — a freak of na- 
ture, if true. The historic trees were shamefully neglected and 
abused for many years. They were gnawed by disrespectful 
horses, and fell victims to those thoughtless vandals who, for 
some inscrutable reason, never miss an opportunity to carve 
their own unimportant initials u[)on everything which the public 
is interested in having preserved unscarred. In April, 1887, a 
very modest fence was placed about the trees and now they bid 
fair to survive for many a generation. 

By the year 1821 the little patches of cultivated land had 
multiplied at the base of Presidio Hill and even spread up and 
across Mission Valley. Don Bias Aguilar, who was born at 
San Diego, in 1811, recalled fifteen such rancherias, as they 
were called, which were occupied prior to the great flood of that 
year. At two places in the valley there were vineyards. Most 
of the rancherias were washed away or greatly damaged by the 
flood, which occurred in September or October and in a single 
night filled the valley and changed the course of the river. 
Large numbers of ripe pumpkins were brought down from the 
fields in the El Cajon country. Dana was able to buy, in July, 
1836, a bag of onions, some pears, beans, watermelons, and 
other fruits. 



100 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

The fine upper valley of the San Diego, including the El 
Cajon, was monopolized by the Mission Fathers; hence, the 
military were compelled to look elsewhere for their grazing and 
farming lands. For grazing purposes, they took possession of 
that fine district known in later times as the National Ranch, 
but called by the Spanish the Rancho del Rey, or Ranch of the 
King. Their grain-fields were located at the Soledad, twelve 
miles up the coast. This latter valley was treated as the com- 
mons of the San Diego military establishment, and, later, of 
the Pueblo. The land was not divided into individual holdings, 
but farmed in common. A man cultivating a plot one year had 
the option of doing so the next season, an arrangement which 
continued until a short time before the Mexican War. 

Agriculture never acquired any great importance in all the 
years of Spanish and Mexican dominion. True, there is a 
record of grain exports in 1817, as already noted, and this is 
evidence of progress when it is remembered that it had for- 
merly been necessary to import this staple from Mexico; but 
the exports never reached an important stage. The easy-going 
inhabitants were well content if they produced enough to meet 
their own needs, and their methods and implements were 
ridiculously crude. Until the Americans came, there were no 
plows in the country except those made of the fork of a tree 
shod with a flat piece of iron. Grain was cut w4th a short 
sickle, and horses threshed it with their hoofs. 

But while the agricultural experience w^as a hard struggle 
from the beginning, the livestock industry was rapidly devel- 
oped without encountering any difficulties worth mentioning. 
It involved but little labor, and that little was of a kind ad- 
mirably suited to the Spanish disposition, for it could be done 
mostly on horseback with long intervals of rest between the 
periods of activity. The pasturage was usually excellent and 
the cattle took care of themselves and multiplied prodigiously. 
The Mission Fathers were, of course, also the fathers of the 
cattle business. It was not until the community acquired a 
population apart from that sheltered by the Presidio and the 
]\Iission that private herds began to appear, but the success of 
the Fathers inevitably attracted others into the profitable 
business of raising cattle on free pastures. 

The Spaniards were lovers of horses and had them in such 
plenty that it was frequently necessarv' to slaughter them in 
order to prevent serious interference with the cattle industry. 
The Californians — a term which described the whole resident 
population of Spanish or Mexican blood — were noted for their 
horsemanship, yet they seem to have taken no pains to breed 
good stock. This they might easily have done, for they had 
good Arabian stock to start with, and doubtless the horse might 



PIONEER HIDE SHIPS 101 

have become an important item for export. With the exception 
of a few shiploads sent to the Sandwich Islands in early days, 
this opportunity seems to have been neglected. There were a 
few sheep in early times, but they never grew into large flocks — 
perhaps because they required more care than the Califomians 
were willing to give them, or because the Californians were not 
fond of mutton. 

The pioneer ship in the hide trade between New England 
and California was the Sachem of Boston, which first came to 
the coast in 1822. Her Captain was Henry Gyzelaar, while the 
supercargo was William A. Gale, a man of considerable note. 
He had been engaged in the California fur trade, and his 
glowing report of the resources and possibilities of the country 
was very influential in developing a fleet of trading ships and 
giving California its first boom. The Boston merchants who 
became interested included Bryant & Sturgis, Trot, Bumstead 
& Son, and W. B. Sweet. The important San Francisco firms 
engaged in this trade at the time were J. C. Jones, and Paty, 
McKinlay & Co. Captain Henry D. Fitch, the first great mer- 
chant of San Diego, was a member of the latter firm. The 
Sachem did not call at San Diego, securing a cargo elsewhere, 
but she was soon followed by other ships and a thriving trade 
in hides was established, which flourished until the Mexican 
War was well under way. 

It was the custom of the hide ships to remain some time on 
the coast, going from port to port and bringing the hides which 
they collected to the large warehouses at San Diego, there to 
be prepared for shipment and stored until ready for the home- 
ward voyage. These trips up and down the ?.oast occupied 
three or four months and seven or eight trips were required 
for the collection of a cargo, so that two years or more were 
often spent on a voyage. The best account of this trade is that 
contained in Dana's Two Years Before the Mast. 

The cattle were slaughtered from July 1st to October 1st. 
The methods used were wasteful. About two hundred pounds 
of the best part of the beef were dried and put aside for future 
use, and the remainder thrown away, greatly to the satisfaction 
of the buzzards and wild beasts. The hides were prepared for 
shipment by immersing them from two to four days in large 
vats of brine in order to make them immune against the attacks 
of insects. They were then spread out on the beach and dried, 
then hung on ropes and beaten with a flail until all the dust 
and sand were removed, and, finally, stored in the warehouses 
to await the sailing of the ships. A ship-load ranged from 
25,000 to 50,000 hides. 

The tallow was tried out in large pots and poured into bags 
made of hides, to cool, each bag containing from ^\e hundred 



i 



102 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

to a thousand pounds. In securing the tallow, the part lying 
nearest the hide was earefullj' removed and prepared for do- 
mestic use. A great deal of this grade of tallow went to Lima 
and Callao, to be used in making candles. The interior fat, 
weighing from seventj'-flve to one hundred pounds per animal, 
furnished the principal .staple for export trade and was worth 




RlCHAaO HENRY DANA 



r of "Two Yea 



six cents per pound. This now seems very low, but of course, 
was due to the exceedingly small cost of producing cattle on the 
open range and to the heavj' expense of shipping; otherwise 
the business could not have prospered with such enormous 
waste and such low prices for products. 

For the purpose of storing the hides, a number of lar^ 
warehouses were erected by the Boston firms at a point on the 



HISTORIC HIDE HOUSE 103 

shore nearest the anchorage, known as La Play a (the beach), 
near the site of the present government quarantine station. 
These houses were framed in Boston, sent out in the ships 
and set up here. They were named after the ships, and the 
names of four of them are recalled bv old settlers as the Admit- 
tance, the California^ the Sterling, and the Tasso. There 
do not appear to have been more than four in existence at one 
time. For instance, Dana says there were four in 1836. They 
stood until some time in the fifties. E. W. Morse sa>^ he spent 
his first night on shore, in April, 1850, in one of these old 
buildings, which was then used as a warehouse. Andrew 
Cassidy says there was only one of them standing when he ar- 
rived, three years later, and that it stood for several years after. 
Lieutenant Derby, who came in August, 1853, says there were 
then left the ruins of two of the old hide houses, one being the 
Tasso. Bartlett, in his Personal Narrative, states that when 
he was here in 1852, these houses were still standing ** exactly 
as described by Dana in 1836,'' but this is clearly somewhat 
inexact. There were also warehouses in San Diego for the 
storage of the tallow which was to be sent to Peru or Mexico. 
No hides were exported to Peru or Mexico and no tallow to 
Boston. 

The first hide house was built by the carpenter of the Brook- 
line and occupied by James P. Arthur, mate of that ship, with 
a small party, while curing hides, in 1829. The Boston Adver- 
tiser says on his authority : 

They had a barn-Uke structure of wood, . . . which 
answered the purpose of storehouse, curing-shop, and residence. 
The life was lonesome enough. Upon the wide expanse of the 
Pacific they occasionally discerned a distant ship. Sometimes 
a vessel sailed near the lower offing. It was thus that the idea 
of preparing and raising a flag, for the purpose of attracting 
attention, occurred to them. The flag was manufactured 
from some shirts, and Captain Arthur writes, with the just 
accuracy of a historian, that Mr. Greene's calico shirt furn- 
ished the blue, while he furnished the red and white. **It was 
completed and raised on a Sunday, on the occasion of the 
arrival of the schooner Washingtoiif Captain Thompson, of 
the Sandwich Islands, but sailing under the American flag." 
So writes honest Captain Arthur. He further states that the 
same flag was afterward frequently raised at Santa Barbara, 
whenever in fact there was a vessel coming into port. These 
men raised our national ensign, not in bravado, nor for war 
and conquest, but as honest men, to show that they were 
American citizens and wanted company. And while the act 
cannot be regarded as in the light of a claim to sovereignty, 
it is still interesting as a fact, and as an unconscious indica- 
tion of manifest destiny. 

The following is a list of all the American trading ships which 
have been found, known to have called at San Diego during the 



104 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



life of the hide trade. A few of these were doubtless whalers, 
and there were probably others of which no record has been 
found ; but it is believed- this list contains the names of substan- 
tially all the hide ships. 



In 1824, Arabf Mentor. 

1825, Sachem. 

1825-6, Rover. 

1828, Andes, Courier, Frank- 

lin. General Sucre. 
1829-31, Brookline, Louisa. 
1829-32-34, Volunteer. 
1831, Harriet. 
1831-3-6-8-9-40-2-3-4, Alert. 
1831-2-3-7-8-9-40-1-2-3-4, Cali^ 

fornm. 
1832-3, Pla/nt. 
1833, Newcastle. 
1833-38-45, Don Quixote. 
1833-36-43, Bolivar Liberator. 

1833, Harriet Blanchard. 

1834, Boxana. 



1835, Pilgrim. 

1836, Lagoda, Loriotte, Cata- 
Una. 

1836-7, Kent. 

1837, Rasselas, Sophia. 

1839, Morse. 

1840, Alciope. 
1840-1, Monsoon. 

1841, Thomas Perkins. 
1841-2-3-5-7, Tasso. 
1842-4-6-7, Barnstable. 
1839-43-4, Fama. 

1844, Menkar. 
1844-5, Sterling. 

1845, Martha, Admittance. 

1846, Vandalia. 
1847-8, Olga. 



The hide and tallow trade practically ended with the trans- 
fer of California to the United States. This w^as a mere coin- 
cidence, due to economic rather than to political causes. New 
England found that she could get her hides cheaper somewhere 
else. The trade had marked the high tide of prosperity in old 
California days, and supplied an interesting and romantic epi- 
sode in the history of the country. Excellent accounts of this 
period may be found in the writings of Bancroft, Dana, Rob- 
inson, and Davis. The latter, perhaps the most competent 
authority, estimates the total number of hides exported from 
California at about 5,000,000 and the tallow at 250,000,000 
l)0unds. 

Even after the cattle business passed mostly into private 
hands, the missions profited largely from it, by means of tithes, 
a form of ecclesiastical tax scrupulously paid by the rancheros 
and diligently collected by the missionaries. This tax was col- 
lected, in some instances, as late as 1850 or 1851. The missions 
were also the principal customers of the American ships. Their 
cargoes consisted of sugar, tea, coffee, rum, silk, furniture, 
calico, clothing, and blankets for the Indians, which they sold 
to the friars for cash and exchanged for hides. William A. Gale. 
Alfred Robinson, and William Heath Davis did a large business 
with the missions for manv vears. 

In Robinson's Life in California is an interesting account of 
the pains which were taken, upon his first visit to San Diego, 



DISTRIBUTION OF LAND 105 

in 1829, to entertain the good Father Antonio Peyri, founder of 
the San Luis Rev Mission, and especially to impress him with 
the excellence of the stores brought in the Brookline, from Bos- 
ton. This entertainment seems to have proven quite profitable, 
in the end. The missionaries kept the firet, and for many years 
the only, stores, from which they supplied the wants of their 
neophytes and sold goods to such as desired them. Their suc- 
cess soon stimulated emulation in this, as in other, lines and 
private fortunes began to grow. The first storekeeper at San 
Diego, and the only one for some years, was Captain Henry D. 
Fitch, who dealt in furs, hides, and general merchandise. After 
the cattle business began to assume importance and private resi- 
dences were established in the country, at every important 
rancho was maintained a general store and depot of supply for 
the surrounding country. 

With the growth of the hide and tallow trade, land began to 
assume more value and private holdings increased. Under the 
Spanish administration, only the king could make grants of land, 
and it was many years before the right was exercised toward any 
except the missionaries. The general laws of Spain provided 
for the granting of four square leagues of land to newly-formed 
settlements, or pueblos as they were called, upon certain condi- 
tions. As early as 1784, application was made to the Governor 
by private individuals for grants of land, and he issued a few 
Avritten permits for temporary occupation. Two years later he 
received authority to make grants of tracts not exceeding three 
leagues, not to conflict with the boundaries of existing pueblos, 
and on certain conditions which included the building of a stone 
house and the keeping of not less than two thousand head of live- 
stock on each rancho. 

It was considered that vacant lands outside the pueblos and 
missions belonged to the Indians, to be utilized by them when- 
ever they should become sufficiently civilized. In 1793 it was 
reported that no private grants had been made, but a few years 
later a number were made near the presidios, subject to con- 
firmation later on. Several governors in succession preferred to 
make these conditional grants, and at the close of the 18th cen- 
tury the situation was this : The Presidio was without settlers, 
but expected ultimately to become a pueblo, and was entitled 
to four square leagues of land whenever proper organization 
should appear; and there were in the whole department twenty 
or thirty men engaged in raising cattle on lands to which they 
had only such possessory permits, but none of these appear to 
have been at San Diego. In 1813 the Spanish cortes passed a 
decree relative to the reduction of public lands to private own- 
ership, designed to improve agricultural conditions and reward 



106 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

the country's defenders. Lands might be granted to veterans 
and invalid soldiers. 

This decree was unknown in California before 1820. One of 
the earliest of the grants made under this law w^as that of the 
Peiiasquitos Rancho, of nearly nine thousand acres, to the vet- 
eran Captain Ruiz and PYanciseo ^I. Alvarado, on June 15, 
1823. This grant was made against the earnast protests of the 
missionaries, as conflicting with their boundaries. In a report 
made in 1828 are named the Rancho del Rev, now know^n as 
the National Ranch, where the Presidio had 250 cattle and 25 
horses; the San Antonio Abad, which had 300 cattle, 80 horses 
and 25 mules, ])esides producing some grain ; the Penasquitos 
Rancho, with 50 cattle, 20 horses, and 8 mules; El Rosario, or 
Barracas, which had 25 head of live-stock and some grain; and 
the San Ysidro stock range. It also appears from a statement 
of the missionaries in this year that the Temescal Rancho had 
been occupied by Leandro Serrano, majordomo at San Juan. 
In January or March, 1829, Governor Echeandia granted one 
league at Otay to Jose Antonio Estudillo, and another to Maria 
Magdalena Estudillo. 

From about 1832 grants were rapidly made of the public or 
unoccupied lands of California ; and subsequent to the acts of 
secularization of 1833-4, it was the practice of the government 
to grant to individuals tracts of land belonging to the missions, 
but w^hich were no longer used or occupied by them. In spite 
of the opposition of the priests, grants were constantly made 
by the government within the limits of the so-called mission 
domain, and this continued up to 1846, w^hen the dominion of 
Upper California passed to the American Government. And 
so it went on, until the country, except the mission and pueblo 
lands, had passed into private hands. A table showing these 
early land grants is given at the end of this chapter. 

Mr. Theodore S. Van Dyke has written very instructively 
about these land grants in liis City and County of San Diego, 
He says: 

Soon after the estabJishnient of other missions in California, 
and tlio quieting and gathering in of the greater part of the 
Indians around the missions, settlers from Spain and Mexico 
began to come in, and later on a few from the United States, 
England, and elsewhere. Nearly all these settlers obtained 
grants of large tracts of land from the Mexican Government, 
which have since been the cause of much litigation, envy, 
and quarrelling. Those grants were simply Mexican home- 
steads, given to settle the country just as the United States 
homesteads are given, for practically nothing. 

Instead of selling a man, as the United States then did, 
all the land he wanted for $1.2.5 an acre, the Mexican Gov- 
ernment gave it to him by the square league. The grants were 
made large partly as an inducement to the settler to go into 



THE FISHERIES 107 

such a wild and remote country, but mainly because the raising 
of cattle for the hides and tallow being the only industry, a 
large range was absolutely necessary for profit as well as the 
support of the band of retainers necessary for profit and 
safety. . . . 

The first effect of these large grants was to retard settlement. 
The County of San Diego, in common with the rest of South- 
ern California, was then believed to be a veritable desert of 
sand, cactus, and horned toads, fit only for stock range at the 
rate of about one hundred acres to each animal. 

Dairying was practically unknown among the ranchos, and 
often there was no effort even to keep the tables supplied with 
milk. Davis says that he has frequently drank his coffee or 
tea without milk, on a ranch containing from 3600 to 8000 head 
of cattle. Other methods were equally wasteful. The horns 
were not thought worth saving, and the Americans who chose 
were allowed to gather and ship all they cared to, without money 
and without price. These lax methods may be further illus- 
trated by the fact that in 1840 the Mission of San Jose ordered 
the slaughter of two thousand bulls, which were killed simply 
for their hides, none of the meat, and little of the tallow, being 
saved. 

Next to the cattle industry, and the trade in hides and 
tallow, the fisheries made the most important contribution to 
the early commerce of San Diego. And the fisheries included 
the exciting chase for the sea otter, which was very valuable 
for its fur. The otters w^ere far more plentiful in the north, 
yet were frequent visitors to the San Diego coast, especially 
to the kelp beds off Point Loma and La JoUa. The Indians 
were acquainted with the use of their furs when the Spaniards 
came, and one of the early cares of the missionaries was to train 
their converts to improved methods of catching them. The 
Indians do not appear to have been remarkably energetic 
hunters, but enough skins were brought in to form an important 
item of export and a subject of contention between the cam- 
mandants and the missionaries, both of whom thought them- 
selves entitled to a monopoly of the traffic. The heyday of the 
Spanish trade was about the time of the Lelia Byrd affair, 
when virtually the whole population had skins to sell, openly 
or covertly, and the commandant had a collection of about a 
thousand confiscated skins. 

By the time the Americans began to settle at San Diego otters 
were not so common in the bay, but along the coast of Lower 
California and its adjacent islands there was still good hunting. 
Philip Crosthwaite was one of the earliest and best known otter 
hunters. He stated that there were two companies of hunters 
at San Diego, in 1845, which were fitted out each season by 
Captain Fitch. The hunting season was during the spring 



108 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



and summer months, whea the otters could be found among the 
kelp, often asleep, and shot with rifles from boats. This work 
required a peculiar equipment of patience, keen sight, steady 
nerves, and marksmanship. Each company sent out three 
canoes together which hunted in the day and lay up on the beach 
at niglit. There were places on the shore known to the hunters, 
where wood and water could be found, and at night they landed 




WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS 






at such Spots through the surf and made their camp. As late 
as 1857, two otter hunters were drowned in the surf on the 
beach near Point Loma, while trying to land in a small boat. 
Otters are, of course, now extinct in this vicinity. In 1845 the 
skins were worth $40 each at Fitch's store. There are no 
statistics of the extent and value of the otter catch, but it was 
very considerable. 



THE WHALING TRADE 109 

That strange animal, the sea-elephant, was also a native to 
this coast, and for a short time was a victim of the chase. Very 
early settlers tell how, on stormy days, the yelps of the elephants 
lying on the sand at what is now Coronado Beach could be heard 
in San Diego above the roar of the breakers. They were also 
plentiful in the haunts of the otter, along the coasts and islands 
of Lower California. They seem never to have formed an ex- 
tensive object of the chase by the population. The story of 
their destruction is short and sad. Some of the Yankee whalers 
heard of them and conceived the idea that there might be money 
in elephant oil. There was a rush for them; they were 
slaughtered by thousands, and soon exterminated. It is said 
that some of these ships secured an entire cargo of elephant 
oil in a single season's chase. At any rate, these curious animals 
are gone, forever, from these parts. And does the reader ask, 
**What is a sea-elephant?'' Merely a big seal — the biggest of 
his family — with a snout so prolonged as to be suggestive of an 
elephant. 

The Spanish population never pursued the chase, either by 
land or sea, with noteworthy daring and vigor. It was great 
sport for the expert vaqueros to lasso a bear now and then and 
lead him home, to be baited to death by dogs and bulls ; it never 
occurred to their uncommercial souls that this sort of thing 
could be turned into a money-making enterprise. Cattle were 
plentiful and cheap; why should a man incur fatigue and dan- 
ger in the pursuit of articles of luxury which the state of 
society did not require? Such things were left to the restless 
and incomprehensible Americans. Cattle were something the 
Spanish could understand, and it was all very well to shoot an 
otter now and then as it lay asleep in the sun on beach or kelp ; 
but to spend one's days amidst the toil and danger of the ocean 
chase, was much too strenuous. The finest of otter skins were 
worth no more than the hides of four or five bullocks, and 
there was neither use nor sale for whale oil, until the American 
ships came. 

The story of the American whaling trade in the Pacific is 
one of the most picturesque and romantic in our history, and 
the half has never been told. The enterprise, hardihood, dar- 
ing, and skill which made it possible, form a worthy sequel to 
the wonder-tales of England's Elizabethan age. This chase 
began long before the Mexican War and still continues to a 
limited extent. The chief rendezvous of the whale ships was 
first at the Sandwich Islands and later at San Francisco. In 
1855 their number had reached five hundred, but it was not 
until ten years later that San Francisco became the head- 
quarters. Whales were known to exist on the coast from the 
time of the earliest settlements. Father Crespi has left it on 



110 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

record that upon his arrival at San Pablo Bay, in March, 1772, 
he saw whales spontinp, and there is no doubt the same 
phenomenon had been observed here, where whales were no less 
plentiful. 

As late as the early forties, San Diego Bay was a favorite 
resort for female whales in their calving season, and at such 
times, on any bright day, scores of them could be seen spouting 
and basking in the sunlight. On North Island there was a spring 
which the inhabitants of La Playa were in the habit of visiting 
in canoes to get a supply of fresh water. Often when these 
whales were passing in or out, it was deemed unsafe to cross, 
and the boatmen had to wait for hours. But when the chase 
began in earnest and steamers began to visit the harbor, the 
whales abandoned the place and went farther down the coast. 
They still passed by near the shore, however, in the winter and 
spring months, and came in near Ballast Point in great numbers. 
Andrew Cassidy says he has often counted as many as eleven 
whales inside Ballast Point, all spouting at one time, and in 
January, 1872, it is on record that fifteen were seen at one time. 

Dana tells this story regarding an adventure with a whale at 
San Pedro: 

This being the spring season, San Pedro, as well as all the 
other open ports upon the coast, was filled with whales that had 
come in to make their annual v^isit upon soundings. For the 
first few days that we were here and at Santa Barbara we 
watched them with great interest, calling out ** There she 
blows,'' every time we saw the spout of one breaking the sur- 
face of the water; but they soon became so common that we 
took little notice of them. "We once very nearly ran one down 
in the gig, and should probably have been knocked to pieces 
or blown sky-high. \Vc had been on board the little Spanish 
brig, and wore returning, stretching out well at our oars, the 
little boat going like a swallow; our backs were forward, and 
the captain, who was steering, was not looking out, when all 
at once we heard the spout of a whale directly ahead. *'Back 
water! back water, for your lives!'' shouted the captain, and 
we backed our blades in the water and brought the boat to 
in a smother of foam. Turning our heads, we saw a great, 
rough, hump-backed whale slowly crossing our forefoot, within 
three or four vards of the boat's stem. Had we not backed 
water just as we did wo should inevitably have gone smash 
upon him. He took no notice of us, but passed slowly on, and 
dived a few^ yards beyond us, throwing his tail high in the air. 

The whales passed south from December to February, and on 
their return trip north in March and April. The local whale 
companies were formed early in the fifties, at San Diego and 
other places, notably at Monterey, and they continued in 
business for many years and were very successful. The business 
began to assume importance here in 1853. In February, 1858, the 



THE WHALING TRADE 111 

company of whalemen at La Playa had killed ** about a dozen" 
whales since they commenced operations, **only five of which 
they have been able to get into the port." These five yielded 
150 barrels of oil, worth about $2,000. Editor Ames expressed 
the opinion that if some means could be devised to prevent the 
whales from sinking*, a good business could be done in catching 
them within ten miles of the harbor. A little later, they cap- 
tured five in as many days, each of which produced from thirty- 
five to forty barrels of oil. By 1868 the business had grown so 
that there were two companies with twenty men at work in the 
boats and a dozen rendering the oil, and it had become a favorite 
diversion of San Diegans to go out to the lighthouse and watch 
the chase. 

In the season of 1870-1, the yield of oil was 21,888 gallons, 
and in 1871-2 it w^as estimated at 55,000 gallons and two hun- 
dred pounds of whalebone were collected. In 1873-4, 21,600 
gallons, and in 1874-5 four hundred barrels of oil were produced. 
As late as 1886, three hundred barrels of oil were made and 
about a thousand pounds of w^halebone gathered. In the eighties 
the business was declining, however, and soon became unprofit- 
able and was abandoned. 

The trying-works were on Ballast Point. The captured whales 
were towed in and cut up and the flesh thrown into two large 
iron pots, having a capacity of 150 gallons each. At each pot 
was stationed a man with a large strainer, whose business it w^as 
to fish out the pieces of blubber as fast as they became suffi- 
ciently browned. These pieces were then pressed to extract the 
oil, after which the refuse was used for fuel. It seems to have 
burned very well, but made '*a villainous stench." The oil was 
ladled into casks and when cool was stored awaiting shipment. 

The method of killing the w^hales was by a bomb lance from 
small boats. At first the work seems to have been unskillfully 
done, but in later years it was carried to great perfection. The 
whales were of the gray species. No reliable statistics can be 
given as to the total output, but it ran well into the thousands of 
barrels and was an important article of export. Among the 
older citizens of San Diego are several who came here to engage 
in this chase, and followed it for many years. The only remains 
now left of this interesting period are the vertebrae of whales 
which are used as ornaments and may still be seen in many San 
Diego dooryards. The Society of Natural History has also col- 
lected some valuable relics, which are preserved in the public 
library building. 

Such were some of the principal commercial features affect- 
ing the early life of the place. 



112 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

LIST OF LAND GRANTS. 

Following 18 a list of ranchos of San Diego County, showing tne 
number of acres in each rancho, names of grantees, and date each grant 
was confirmed. The names of the grantees do not represent the pres- 
ent proprietors, the ownership having changed, in many cases, since the 
confirmation of the grant: 

Name of Bancho. Owner. Grant Confirmed. Acres. 

Santa Margarita and 

Las Flores Pio & Andres Pico 89,742.93 

Ex-Mission of San 

Diego Santiago Arguello 1846 58,208.00 

San Jacinto Nuevo Miguel de Pedrorena 1846 48,823.67 

El Cajon Maria Autonia Estudillo de 

Pedrorena 48,799.34 

Santa Rosa Juan Moreno Oct. 10, 1872 47,815.10 

San Jacinto Viejo Jose Ant. Estudillo 1846 35,504.00 

Cuyamaca Agustin Olvcrn 35,501.32 

La Nacion (National 

Bancho) John Forster Aug. 3, 1858 26,631.94 

San Jos6 del Valle 

(Warner's Ranch) ..J. J. Warnrr 1846 26,629.88 

Pauba Luis Vignos Jan. 19, 1860 26,597.96 

Tem^cula Luis Vignos Jan. 18, 1860 26,608.94 

Sobrante de San Ja- Miguel de Pedrorena and Ro- 

cinto sario E. de Aguirro 22,195.00 

San Bernardo .lose Francisco Snook 17,763.07 

Santa Ysabel Jose Joaquin Ortega et al..May 4, 1872 17,719.40 

Santa Maria (Valle 

de Pamo) .Tos6 Joaquin Ortepra et al. July 30, 1872 17,708.85 

San Vicente Juan Lopez 1846 13,539.96 

La Laguna Abel Stearns Sept. 3, 1872 13,338.80 

Monserrate Ysidro Maria Alvarado..July 17, 1872 13,322.90 

Valle de las Viejas Ramon & Leandro Osuua 1846 13,314.00 

Agua Hedionda Juan Marfa Marron 13,311.01 

Pauma Jos^ Ant. Serrano, Jos6 Agui- 

lar, & Bias Aguilar . . Aug. 29, 1871 13,309.60 

Guejito George W. Hamley May 24, 1866 13,298.59 

Rincon del Diablo Heirs of Juan Bautista Alvarado 

May 3, 1872 12,653.77 

San Felipe Juan Forster Aug. 6, 1866 9,972.08 

San Marcos Jost^ Maria Alvarado 8,978.29 

Jamacha Apolinaria Lnronzaua 8,881.16 

Jamul Pio Pico 8,876.00 

La Jolla 8,872.00 

San Dieguito Juan Maria Osuna 8,824.71 

Penasquitas Francisco Maria Ruiz & Fran- 
cisco M. Alvarado 8,486.01 

Otav Magdalena Estudillo et al 1846 6,557.98 

Tecate Juan Bandini 4,439.00 

Janal Victoria Dominguez. . . June 30, 1872 4,436.00 

Los Encinitos Andres Ybarra April 18, 1871 4,431.03 

Island or Peninsula Archibald C. Peachv & Wil- 

of San Diego liam H. Aspinwall. . June 11, 1869 4,185.46 

Gua.iome Andres & Jos^ Manuel (Indians) . . . 2,219.41 

Buena Vista Felipe (an Indian) 2,219.08 



LIST OF LAND GRANTS 113 

Potr**ro San Juan 

Capistrano 1,187.74 

El Cariso and La 

Cienega 1,167.00 

Ex-Mission of San 

Luis Rcy Bishop J. S. Alemany, March 10, 1865 53.39 

Ex- Mission of San 

Diego Bishop Alemany May 23, 1862 22.21 




( IIAPTER III 



POLITICAL LIFE IN MEXICAN DAYS 

iLTIlOUGH twenty-three Governors — ten Span- 
ish and thirteen Mexican — ruled California 
lief ore the days of American dominion, only 
two of these impressed themselves upon the 
history of San Diego. Governor Bcheandia 
loved the place so ^vell that he virtually made 
it the capital during his administration, and 
Governor Pico was himself a San Diegan in 
whom his neighbors felt considerable pride. Several of the oth- 
ers appeared for a moment upon the stage of picturesque local 
life, but few exerted any influence upon the course of events in 
this neighborhood. It must be rememl)ered that for sixty-six 
years San Diego lived under military rule and that it was not 
until the establishment of the pueblo in 1835 that civil govern- 
ment l)ecame dominant. Less than a dozen years then remained 
to the Mexican power, but this brief period w^as crowded with 
interesting political episodes. As we study the record, we are 
strongly reminded that the men of that time were of the same 
race as those who have made the turbulent politics of Central 
and South American states, for there is the same story of mimic 
wars and of the rise and fall of ambitious rulers. There w^re but 
few people to govern, but relatively many who desired to govern 
them, and the energies which Americans have given to the devel- 
opment of natural resources the ^Texicans preferred to spend on 
the stormy field of politics. 

When the Spanish flag went down, and gave place to the em- 
blem of Mexico, on April 20, 1822, the people of San Diego 
submitted gracefully, but without enthusiasm. Only far echoes 
of the revolutionary struggle had reached them during the pre- 
vious decade and their sympathies clung fondly to the Spanish 
tradition of the country. It is related that there was no flag- 
staff upon w^hich to hoist the new colors ; that the soldiers grum- 
bled because there was no distribution of money; and that the 
next day they cut off their queues as an ex])ression of their dis- 
gust. In December, the imperial commissioner, charged with the 
change of government in Upper California, stopped in San Diego 
for a wTek on his way homo, but there is nothing to show that 
he transacted any busint^ss at this place. He gambled wath a 



ARRIVAL OF ECHEANDIA 115 

rollicking priest, named Fernandez, (juarreled wifh Santiago 
Argiiello about it, and departed in an unhappy frame of mind. 
It was in 1825 that General Jos4 Maria Etlieandia, who 
was both political chief and military commandant of Upper 
and Lower California, arrived with a detachment of soldiers 
and a number of subordinates and established himself at the 




A noUbleSan Dieiia politician and last MeiicinEovernorof CaJifornia 

Pri-sidio. This was after the fall of the Emperor Iturbide and 
at the very outset of the effort to establish republican institu- 
tions. The task he had undertaken was by no means easy. The 
troops were destitute and mutinous; the old Spanish population 
was still unfriendly to the new order of thin^. and the region 
lacked capital and population and was far from prosperous. 

Late in 182(>. the governor ordered the election of five repre- 
sentatives to meet in San Diego for the purpose of choosing 
deputies charfied with the duty of reorganizing the territorial 
assembly, as well as to si'lect a memlier of the national congress. 
These representatives met in San Diego in February, 1827. 
They were Francisco de Ilaro. for San Frimcisco; Est^van 
Munras, for Monterey; ('arlos A. rarrillo, for Santa Barbara; 



116 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Vicente Sanchez, for Los Angeles; and Augustin V. Zamorano, 
for San Diego. They chose Pablo de Sola as congressman, but 
doubts rose as to his eligibility and the vote was therefore recon- 
sidered and Captain Jose de la Guerra y Noriega chosen, instead, 
with (iervasio Argiiello as substitute. De la Guerra y Noriega 
was a Spaniard, although he had left Spain when quite small. 
Hut the Mexican prejudice against Spaniards at that time was so 
great that, uiK)n his arrival in Mexico, he was not only refused 
admission to the national assembly, but forced to hurrj^ home in 
order to avoid serious trouble. Thus ungraciously did Mexico 
receive the first representative to the national assembly elect^ed 
in I'pper California. Argiiello, the substitute, then took the 
seat and served out the term, in 1827-8. The San Diego 
assembly also chose seven menil>ers and three substitutes for 
the assemblv which later convened at ^fonterev. 

Echeandia's choice of San Diego as his capital was not 
popular with the people of the North. Ilis attempt to hold a 
meeting of the asseni])ly here in the spring of 1827 was barren 
of results. The nienibei*s met, protested that San Diego was 
not conveniently situated for their pur|)ose, and adjourned. 
In October of the same year they again met here, and chose four 
new membei*s. Another futile session of the bodv was held at 
San Diego in January, 1829. Then the Governor issued a 
summons for a meeting at Monterey, but his call was ignored. 

Early in November of this year, from causes arising largely 
out of the prevailing destitution and discontent of the military, 
the Sol is insurrection broke out at Monterey. Echeandia ap- 
pears to have acted with vigor and moderation. He first con- 
vened a council of seven officers, whom he asked for a frank 
criticism of his administration. Fortified by their unanimous 
approval, and assured of the support of the inhabitants of San 
Diego, he set about his preparations for a campaign. Alfred 
Robinson was here at the time and gives some description of 
the bustle of preparation. Guns were repaired, swords sharp- 
ened, and lances manufactured. The troops departed on De- 
cember 1, with the governor at their head, and it was several 
weeks Ix^fore news of his complete success, after an opera houffe 
campaign at Santa Barbara and Monterey, reached San Diego. 

Echeandia was disturbed no more by armed revolts, but 
encountered much opposition in his attempts to carry out the 
ordei's of the ^lexican government directed against the Spanish 
population. A numl)er of laws relative to the expulsion of all 
Spaniards who should refuse to take the oath of allegiance was 
passed, debarring them from office or employment until Spain 
should recognize the independence of ^Mexico. It was undoubt- 
edly intended that he should enforce these regulations and 
expel recalcitrants from the country, but he chose to put a 



THE SOLIS REBELLION 117 

more liberal interpretation upon his instructions. He pro- 
claimed the laws and published lists of resident Spaniards re- 
<piired to take the oath, but does not appear to have used his 
power to persecute those who refused. Some of the missionaries 
surreptitiously tied the country, and others demanded passi>orts 
and left openly, rather than submit. It appears that Echeandia 
rej?arded the presence of these stublx)rn missionaries as undesir- 
able, and even went so far as to ship Father Martinez, of San 
Luis Obispo, out of the country, after a council of war, on a 
charge of having given aid and comfort to the rebels in the 
Solis insurrection. He was also desirous of carrying out the 
w^ishes of his superiors with regard to the secidarization of the 
missions, and discussed plans to that end, but no definite steps 
were taken during his administration. He did, however, issue 
a decree of partial emancipation of the neophytes, permitting 
such as had been Christians from childhood or for fifteen vears, 
who were married or at least not minoi*s, and who had some 
means of livelihood, to leave the missions. 

Trade was brisk on the coast during Echeandia 's adminis 
tration, for it was a time when the hide and tallow business 
was rapidly growing in importiince. In 1828, the revenue col- 
lected at San Diego was $34,000 — nearly six times that at San 
Francisco. In July of that year» Captain John Bradshaw, of 
the Franklin, anchored in San Diego Bay after doing consider- 
able trading on the Lower California coast. A warning had 
come from Loreto, and he was accused of having been engaged 
in smuggling, and other offenses, although his supercargo, Rufus 
Perkins, had been allowed to travel overland from mission to 
mission. Bradshaw was ordered to deposit his cargo in the 
warehouse and await the investigation of these charges. He 
promised compliance, but returned to his ship and, once on 
board, refused to obey any orders given him and changed his 
anchorage to a point near the harbor entrance. The governor 
prepared to place a guard on the ship and applied to a French 
captain then in the port, Duhaut-Cilly, for the loan of a boat. 
The boat was loaned, but Bradshaw was also warned, and on the 
morning of the 16th of July he cut his cable and ran out of the 
harbor, passing the fort, although a shower of cannon balls 
was hurled after him. The Frenchman met Captain Bradshaw, 
later, at the Islands, where he learned that his hull had been 
perforated, rigging damaged, and the gallant captain himself 
wounded. 

The Hawaiian brig Karimoho was also in trouble at San 
Diego, late in the fall. The records seem to make it clear that 
she was engaged in contraband trade, havmg a rendezvous on 
Catalina Island. Her sails were seized and Santiago Argiiello 
was sent to the island to investigate and bring over the goods. 



118 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



In the sHine year, an Aineriuan uamed Lang, with two sailors 
and two Kauakus, was arrested in a boat Dear Todos Santos. 
The prisoners told a story about coming from the Sandwich 
Islands to settle in California; but as Lang's effects included 
a barrel-organ and two trunks of drypoods, they were confiscated 
and sold. Lang had previously been at San Diego and confided 
to a countryman that he was engaged in smuggling. These and 
other irregularities led to the closing of -the way ports to foreign 
vessels and caused considerable inconvenience to legitimate trad- 
ing ships. 

In December, 1830, the rule of Echeandia ended with the 
arrival of Colonel llanuel Victoria, the newly-appointed gov- 




ernor, at San Diego. Victoria pi-oceeded north, where the 
transfer of office was made. With his coming the jurisdiction 
of Upper and Lower Californin was divided iind the governor's 
residence again removed to Konterey. The new governor was 
soon embroiled with his deputies in a fierce quaiTel. He refused 
to convene the assembly.', even when petitioned to do so by the 
members, and a bitter wrangle ensued in which Juan Bandini 
of Ran Diego, then substitute eoufrressman for Upper California, 
and I*io Pico, senior vocal of the assembly from the same place, 
were involved, and incurred the governor's displeasure. It was 
claimed that Victoria was setting up a military dictatorship and 
overriding the pupnlar will. He was severe in the ndminis- 
ti-Htion of justice and sboeked the Californians l>y his strict 
■■nforcenicnt of tlie law's penalties. He also ([uarrelled with 
many prominent men and sent a number of them into exile. 

In .\ovenil)er. ISIU, Ahel Stearns, a naturalized Mexiean 
citizen, and .lose Antonio Carrillo, liolh of whom were among 



FLIGHT OF VICTORIA 119 

the men banished by Victoria, but neither of whom had gone 
farther than the frontier, secretly met in San Diego with Juan 
Bandini and Pio Pico, and laid plans for a revolt. Pico, 
Bandini, and Carrillo set out with fourteen men besides them- 
selves, seventeen in all, to seize the post. Bandini went to the 
house of Captain Argiiello, where he found that officer and 
Lieutenant Valle ])layinp cards, lie presented first an apology 
and then a pair of pistols, and marched the two officers off to 
prison, where they found Commandant Port ilia had preceded 
them. The troops gave no trouble, Echeandia was persuaded 
to head the movement, and soon all San Diego parties were 
agreed to make it unanimous. A long pronunciamento was 
drawn up, which Juan Bandini is credited with having written. 
Portilla was appointed commander, a force was miLstered and 
marched northward and soon took possession of Los Angeles. 
Victoria had placed implicit confidence in Portilla, who had 
given him notice of the movement and promised to aid in its 
suppression. 

The governor had left Monterey before learning of the revolt, 
and even upon hLs arrival at Santa Barbara seems to have re- 
ceived no accurate information of the nature and extent of the 
trouble. lie started for Los Angeles with about thirty men, 
full of confidence in his ability to restore order without delay, 
and spent the night at San Fernando Mission. Next day, the 
6th of December, Portilla moved out toward Cahuenga with 
about two hundred men, and was met by Victoria with his little 
band of thirty. A war of words ensued, followed by a brief 
conflict in which two men were killed, and then Echeandia 's 
men fled. But Victoria, who had shown great personal bravery, 
was badly wounded and a few days later he surrendered to 
Echeandia and agreed to leave the country. This promise he 
kept, arriving in San Diego on the 27th and going at once on 
board the Pocahontas, with the Captain of which vessel Juan 
Bandini had made a contract to ti-ansport the exile to Mazatlan 
for $1,600, silver, in advance. 

On the way down the coast, Victoria had spent some days at 
San Luis Rey, and the venerable founder of that Mission, 
Father Antonio Peyri, decided to leave the country with him. 
He was among the Spanish friars who had suffered ])ersecution 
under Echeandia, and now quit the country rather than submit 
further. The ship sailed on the 17th of January, 1832, and 
Echeandia remained acting governor until the meeting of the 
assembly at Los Angeles. Pio Pico was then chosen governor, 
in accordance with the plan drawn up at San Diego, but the 
officials of the pueblo of Los Angeles refused to recognize him 
and Echeandia, having paid no attention to the notice of his 
election, now^ thought it opportune to repudiate it and declared 



120 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



Pico incompetent and his election illegal. Pico was goverDor 
twenty days, and then the matter was referred to the national 
government, and in the meantime Echeandia continued to act. 
A new rebellion now broke out at Monterey, headed by Cap- 
tain Zamorano, in which quite a number of foreign residents 
were involved. After a wordy warfare, the deputies met at 
San Diego in March at Echeandia '3 call, to consider the state of 
the country. The net result of this meeting seems to have been 
a circular letter to the governing bodies of the pueblos asking 
them to preserve order, to recognize the asaemhiy. and to dis- 




regard the junta of the north. The disaffection continued to 
spread, however, and in a short time the hostile parties were 
arming and drilling recruits for war. The neophytes at San 
Luis Eey were adheri'nts of Echeandia, and came into camp 
in large numbei's. In April he mai-ched north with about a 
thousand Indians, but ;i Iniec was arranged by which the 
political jurisdiction was divided hetween the two leaders and 
the assembly left with no power whatever. 

On May 15, 18:12. thf as-sembly again met at San Diego and 
reviewed the e.xeiting events of tlic year in an address to the 



THE HIJAR COLONY 121 

president of the republic, especially condemning Zamorano. 
In the spring of 1832, General Jose Figueroa was appointed 
governor, but he had an adventurous trip up the coast and did 
not reach Monterey until the middle of January, 1833. With 
his assumption of office, San Diego ceased to figure as the 
political headquarters of Upper California. Echeandia wel- 
comed the new governor and laid down the cares of office, 
with joy. He gave Figueroa valuable aid in the early days of 
his administration, but was required to report to Mexico, and 
sailed from San Diego May 14, 1833, and never returned. 
He lived for nearly forty years longer in Mexico, supporting 
himself by his profession of civil engineer. 

The estimates of his public services as well as of his character, 
vary with the point of view of the writers. As an administrator 
he was inefficient, but personally he was both dignified and 
affable. The early American traders regarded him as a man of 
undecided character, who tried to please everybody; but he 
seems to have had strong republican views which he stubl)ornly 
strove to carrv out in his administration. lie is described as a 
tall, gaunt personage, full of true Spanish dignity. 

San Diego was never the capital of Upper California in the 
proper sense of the term. The political events here during the 
thirties were due simply to the fact that Governor Echeandia 
preferred it as a residence and chose to order the assembly to 
meet here. It was, however, for a few years during and 
following Echeandia 's administration, a hotbed of political 
activitv. 

In 1831, the first revolution, which ended in the expulsion 
of A^ictoria, began here, as related. One cause of this political 
activity seems to have been a local jealousy between the north- 
ern and southern establishments. The people of San Diego 
naturally desired a continuance of the arrangement by which 
their town served as the capital, and many of the disturbances 
of the time arase over such questions as the maintenance of a 
custom house at the port. Monterey was offended by Echeandia 's 
action, as well as by the choice of congressional representatives 
from the south. San Diego w^as gratified by the selection of 
Pio Pico as Governor in 1832 and again in 1845. 

On the 1st of September, 1834, the brig Natalie arrived at San 
Diego, having on board Juan Bandini and Seiior Hijar, with a 
portion of the political colony sent by the Vice-President of the 
Mexican republic, Gomez Farias. Bandini had gone south in 
May, in time to fall in wdth the plans of Farias and Ilijar. The 
failure of the enterprise is a matter of history, but does not 
belong peculiarly to San Diego ; our interest in it relates to the 
brief entertainment of the party here, and to the disappointment 



122 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

of BiiiidiDi at the outcome. \one of his lai^er political ambi- 
tions, of which hf had many, wi're over realized. 

The .\'alatie is said to have been the vi.*ssel in which Xajwleon 
made his escape t'l-om the island of Elba. She was afterward 
wi-eifked hy being driven on the beach at Monterey id a storm, 
December 21, 1834, jflid went to pieces. The passengers in 
Hijar's colony numbered between 130 and 140. For two days 
the families were sheltered in the hide houses at La Playa, and 
fed by the ownere of the hide houses. They were detained in 
quarantine for fear of measles, and a number died and were 
buried at the Mission. Ilijar and his friends were entertained 




THE SERRANO HOUSE, 



by Bandini, and the othci-s were scaltered amoiii; the residents 
of the town and entertained free of cost. 

The colonists were of nearly every occupation except those- 
which the eountr\- lu'eded. There were >!oMsmiths, blacksmiths, 
carpentei-s, Hhoeniakcfs. tailors, painters, printers, musicians, 
and other artists ;nid iriechiniies. but not a single agrTCultur- 
ist. Most of them were flnRlly shipped back to Mexico, but a 
few settled and remained at San Luis Rev and places farther 
north. 

The annals of the Presidio throuKhout these years are scanty, 
and merely a .story of progressive decay. In 1826 a military 
connnission reported the i>residiHl buildin<rs in a "dephirably 
ruinous condition." and estimated the cost of repairs at $40,000. 
Fort r!ui,iarro.s. aj.so, needed repaii-s to the value of $10,000. It 
does not appear (bat auythintr was ilriiie ;it this time, but in 1828 
the battery was repaired. 

In October of this year, the soldiers sent a committee of five 
to the commandant to complain of hunger and lack of clothing- 



RETIREMENT OF VETERANS 123 

aud demand a payment on account of back pay. The command- 
ant began to jmt them in irons, but the threats of their comrades 
compelled him to desist. They appealed to the General, who 
promised them justice, which he soon after administered — by 
distributing the five soldiei's among other presidios. In May, 
1830, a civilian cut a soldier with a knife and took sanctuary in 
the church, raising an interesting question of the right of asy- 
lum. He was sentenced to eight years' labor on the chain-gang. 

The ranks of the presidial company were not kept full, and 
by 1830 the total force had dwindled to 120 men. In this year 
the armament consisted of 13 cannon, 8 of which were brass and 
5 of iron ; 3 eight-pounders, 7 six-pounders, and 3 four- pounders. 
The fort and powder magazines were of stone, situated close 
under the hill at Ballast Point. A reservoir of stone and mor- 
tar was constructed near the fort, but the water soon broke it. 
The ruins were visible for many years after. Nothing whatever 
now remains of the Spanish works on Ballast Point. The last 
traces were obliterated in the construction of the modern forti- 
fications on the spot, in recent years. 

A petty uprising of the local military force in 1833 is of scmie 
interest. A private of the presidial company of Loreto, named 
Antonio Alipas, was placed under arrest and confined in the 
guard-house. On the 26th day of March, Corporal Inocensio 
Arballo, a comrade of Alipas *s, assembled a squad of seven sol- 
diers and, all armed and mounted, rode up and demanded tbe 
release of the prisoner. The sergeant of the guard refusing this 
demand, the soldiers broke into the guard-house, released Alipas, 
and carried him off. This was an exceptional occurrence, and 
anything resembling vigilante proceedings was rare, among 
either the civil or military population. The soldiers were harshly 
treated, but obedience was thoroughly taught. 

The Spanish military system was continued under Mexican 
rule. One of its admirable features w^as a provision for retir- 
ing veterans and invalids on pensions. Privates who had served 
for thirty years could retire on half pay with the honorary rank 
of sub-lieutenant, and those who had served forty years, with 
the rank of full lieutenant, with the privilege of wearing a uni- 
form. The conditions seem hard, but many of the men, includ- 
ing some of the early company of Catalonian volunteers, ful- 
filled them and lived to end their days in peaceful industry. 
Some of the invalids remained at the Presidio, performing such 
service as they were able, and were also permitted to settle out- 
side the Presidio walls. Mention has been made of the fact that 
all soldiers had a little time of their own ; and thus, with the 
pressure of slowly increasing numbers and hard-won knowledge 
of correct methods of agriculture, the Spanish soldiers began to 



124 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



eiittivjiti' suci-essfiillv their little garden plots jit the foot of Pre- 
sidio Hill. 

Till' [iiieblo of Han Diego whs organized l>y an eleetion of the 
nwessiiry officials on December 21. IS'M. These ofBcial» con- 
sisted of an alcaJdf, or mayor, for which the successful candi- 
date was Juan .Maria Osuiia. who was elected over Pio Pico; 




CAPT. HENRY D. FITCH 



a first rii/iiliii: »r alderman, -hian liaulista Alviirado; a second 
riiiklDi; .Inaii Marin JIarri>n; and a xi/iulirii prociirador, or 
lown altoniey, lli'nry 1). Fitch. Thirteen vizi's in all were east, 
anil thi' offieers enti-red u|nui the diwhartte of their duties on 
the first day of January. Ift3;i, which marks the beginning of" 



UNSETTLED GOVERNMENT 125 

civil rule. They constituted the first ayuntamiento, or town 
council. 

The new town was "governed by its own council for only three 
years. The country was not prosperous and population decreased 
until, in 1838, there were not enough people to entitle it to a 
council, the number required being five hundred. Accordingly, 
from the 1st of January, 1838, until the Mexican War, San 
Diego was part of the sub-prefecture of Los Angeles and gov- 
erned by judges appointed annually hy the governor. Jose 
Antonio Estudillo was the first judge, or juez de paz. 

In 1836 a tax was imposed on the hide-salting establishments 
of foreigners, as had been done before in 1834. 

In this year, soon after a revolution at Monterey, as a result 
of w^hich Governor Guiterrez had been banished and Juan B. 
Alvarado selected as governor in his place, San Diego was again 
drawn actively into the political affaii's of the time. There was 
considerable local dissatisfaction with the course of events, and 
Juan Bandini and Santiago E. Argliello w-ere sent to Los Angeles 
and Santa Barbara as commissioners to consult with the coun- 
cils of those tow^ns upon the situation. It was decided to insist 
upon the carrying out of a law already upon the books mak- 
ing Ijos Angeles the capital, to invite the co-operation of 
Los Angeles and Santa Barbara, and a provisional political chief 
was to be selected to act until the national law^s should be again 
in force. Provision for the military support of the movement 
was also anticipated. The report of the commissioners was ap- 
proved upon their return, but obstacles to the program soon 
began to appear. The soldiers showed a disposition to make the 
occasion a pretext for demanding their arrears of pay. The 
Santa Barbara council, too, failed to endoi-se the plan in its 
entirety, and proposed one of its own. It therefore appeared 
that nothing could be done, and at the end of the year as the 
net result, the Los Angeles council awarded the San Diegans a 
vote of thanks. Early in 1837, new^ town councils were elected, 
and that of Los Angeles evolved a new plan which was indorsed 
by the restless San Diego politicians. 

Governor Alvarado left Monterev with an armv of eightv-five 
Californians and foreigners, about Christmas. At Santa Bar- 
bara he was kindly received, and entered Los Angeles without 
opposition about the 22nd of January. Andres Pico was pres- 
ent with a body of twenty soldiers, and Pio Pico and Francisco 
M. Alvarado, also of San Diego, were said to be on the way, but 
did not arrive until all was over. Alvarado succeeded in tem- 
porarily pacifying the Los Angeles town council, and everything 
was quiet in the southern district during February and March. 
On account of disquieting nimors. however, Alvarado thought it 
necessary to send General Jose Castro southward, with orders. 



ATTEMPTS AT REVOLUTION 127 

in case these rumors should prove well founded, to remove or 
spike all the guns, carry off the horses, and distribute the sup- 
plies in siu*h a manner as to prevent their fallin<r into the hands 
of the enemy. A new assembly was gotten together at Santa 
Barbara on April 10, 1837, and submitted a new series of 
propositions for the pacification of the country. Los Angeles 
promptly rejected these proposals, and San Diego, wliih* more 
politic, pleaded for delay. 

During all this time Juan Bandini was acting upon the advice 
of a friend who, on a former occasion, had suggested that he 
should '*go home and keep quiet,'' and a])pears to have taken 
little part in the turmoils of the time, although the Picos and 
other San Diegans were deeply implicated. The matters about 
which the different factions were quarreling were such as would 
form proper subjects of discussion in political campaigns — 
mainly about the form of the civil and political code after which 
the government of the country should be patterned. The south- 
erners were restless and irreconcilable, and Alvarado seems to 
have had cause for his suspicions. 

On May 21, 1837, Bandini, who had been for some time liv- 
ing quietly upon his ranch, came into San Diego with an armed 
force, proclaiming their purpose to engage in hostilities. Again 
he and Argiiello were sent as commissioners to Los Angeles, with 
a ready-made plan for the cure of all the country's w^oes. The 
Los Angeles town council approved, but feared to act, and Ban- 
dini therefore proceeded to inaugurate the revolution himself, 
by seizing the Los Angeles garrison and guns. There was doubt- 
less an understanding with the commandant of the guard, as 
the coup was accomplished without resistance, including the cap- 
ture of a gun which Pico had carried off from San Diego. Three 
commissioners were appointed to treat with Alvarado, and Ban- 
dini was then obliged to hurry home to San Diego, whence 
alarming reports of Indian hostilities had been received. 

Bandini and his men carried the captured gun with them and 
were received with shouts of triumph by a procession of their 
townsmen. The Indian troubles soon came to an end, and then, 
the military spirit running high, the *'Army of the Supreme 
Government," numbering over a hnndred men. w^as recruited 
and left for the north on the 10th of June. Captain Portilla 
was in command of this expedition, which occupied Los Angeles, 
hastilv evacuated bv Castro's forces on the 16th. 

In the meantime Captain Andres Castillero, representing him- 
self to be a commissioner of the general government, arrived at 
San Diego with the new laws of December 29. 1836. which 
were to replace the federal constitution of 1824. The oath of 
allegiance was administered to the San Diego council and citi- 
zens on June 12th, and then Castillero joined the revolutionary 



128 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

iiniiv nt Siui Luis Rev. Arrived iit Los Aimeles he summoned 
the (rouiK'il, as well hh the oflfieials, soldiers, aud citizens, and they 
t(K»k the oath on June 18th amidst festivities and great rejoic- 
ing,'. II«* then proceeded to Santa Barbara, where he met Alva- 
rado in July, and induced him to take the oath of allegiance to 
the new constitutional laws. This the southern contingent re- 
garded as an act of treacher>% hut being left without a cause to 
fight for, the army and the San Diego plan alike melted into 
thin air. Alvarado remained governor under the new laws, until 
in Octob(»r, when Carlos Carrillo succeeded him. 

In JanuarA', 1838, Governor Carrillo chxsed the ports of San 
Francisco and Monterev and established the custom house at 
San Diego. lie was no more fortunate than his predecessors in 
maintaining peace, and was soon involved in a war which cul- 
minated in the battle of San Buenaventura, the latter part of 
^larch. Being defeated, Carrillo with a few friends and the rem- 
nant of his army fled to San Diego. Here he endeavored to raise 
a force to renew the war, and was aided bv Bandini and others. 
A force of alK)ut a hundred men and three cannon was collected 
and met the enemy at Las Plores, on April 21st. A long nego- 
tiation followed which ended in a compromise — the enemy car- 
ried off the cannon and Alvarado again became Governor. 

The result of all this political anarchy was a distressing con- 
dition for the military at the Presidio. For instance, in April, 
1834, Lieutenant Salazar cannot go to Monterey for want of a 
shirt and jacket ! lie has only a poor cloak to cover *4he fright- 
ful condition of his trousers.*' There is no food for prisoners 
and thev are farmed out to anv citizen who will feed them. In 
Febnuiry, 1837, fourteen prisonei-s were engaged on public 
works — three in repairing the plaza road, and several more at 
work on the courthouse and jail, which were deemed more urgent 
than the church. The Presidio imilding was abandoned about 
1835 and bv 1840 was in ruins. A few half-starved soldiers lin- 

« 

gered as a melancholy reminder of former glory. 

There is a tradition that in 1839 the garrison consisted of one 
soldi(»r at the Presidio and eight at San Luis Key, and that they 
disbanded in September of that year, in order to escape death 
by starvation. Much of the building material on the hill had 
by this time ])een carried down and used in the erection of the 
new town at the foot of the hill. At Christmas, 1838, earth- 
works were thrown up on the hill above the Presidio, for protec- 
tion of the town at the time when an attack was expected by 
Jose Castro, and two cannon were dragged up to it from the 
fort, but nothing came of these laboi's. Fort Guijarros had no 
garrison after 1835. In 1839 it was reported that there were 
nine cannon, two of which were serviceable, and fifty canisters 
of grape and three hundred balls. An effort to have a guard 



LAST OF MEXICAN GLORY 129 

provided for this property failed, and on January 17, 1840, 
the content*; of the fort were sold to Juan Machado for $40. 

The secularization of the missions and the political disturb- 
ances of the time had impoverished the country. The church and 
other reniaininjj: buildings were unroofed by the commandant 
and the tiles sold to satisfy demands which he had against the 
government. Robinson says that in April, 1840, he found every- 
thing prostrated, the mission depopulated, the town almost 
deserted, and its few remaining inhabitants miserably poor. 

In June, 1842, there was a rising of the Indians and it was 
repoi'ted that there were only five men at San Diego, three of 
whom were foreigners, while all the rest were absent on rauchos. 
Early in the year, the French traveler, de Mofras, says he found 
a few soldiers and one officer at the pueblo, and that there were 
a few cannon and balls lying in the sand at the Presidio and 
Castillo. In October, Jose A. Estudillo was directed to carry 
away in carts all the useful guns and ball at the fort. The Alert , 
Captain Phelps, was lying at La Plaj^a at this time, however. 
Phelps heard of the capture of Monterey by Commodore Jones 
of the United States Navy, and also that Governor Micheltorena 
had sent a force to seize all property at San Diego and, antici- 
pating trouble, he decided to act promptly. He put his men at 
work night and day to hasten their departure, and in the mean- 
time sent a party to old Fort Guijarros which spiked all the guns 
and threw the copper shot into the sea. Estudillo was therefore 
saved any trouble in the matter. An investigation in the follow- 
ing month showed that there was one officer at San Diego, with 
fourteen men under him, but no arms or ammunition. 

On August 25, 1842, San Diego had a last glimpse of Mexican 
military glory in the arrival of Governor Micheltorena in the 
brig Chato, who remained about a month drilling and outfitting 
his '* battalion of cholos,'' as they have been .iustly called. This 
invasion was the last of the convict colonies sent from Mexico. 
Fortunately, they did not remain long here, but moved on to 
devastate the rest of the country. They showed themselves very 
poor soldiers, but exceedingly expert night prowlers and pilfer- 
ers. Alfred Robinson, who was here at the time and saw a part 
of them land, says : 

They presented a state of wretchedness and misery un- 
equalled. Not one individual amon^ them possessed a jacket 
or pantaloons; but naked, and like the savage Indians, they 
concealed their nudity with dirty, miserable blankets. The 
females were not much better off; for the scantiness of their 
mean apparel was too apparent for modest observers. Thry 
apprared like convicts; and, indeed, the ^eater portion of 
them had been charged with the crime either of murder or of 
theft. . . . The remainder of the ''convict army" arrived 
in course of time, and I had an opportunity of seeing them 



130 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

all, afterwards. . . . They mustered about three hundred 
and fifty men, and their general had given them, since their 
arrival, a neat uniform of white linen. . . . Day after day 
the place resounded with the noise of the trumpet and the 
drums; and a level spot, on the river's margin, was the scene 
of military manoeuvers. At night, the gardens and vineyards 
were plundered, and the neighboring farms sufltered greatly, 
from the frequency of the soldiers' visits. 

lie also says there was no ammunition with which to salute 
the new governor, and that a salute from the Yankee ship in 
which Robinson had arrived, was the only welcome of the kind 
he received. 

The new governor was received with social honors and wa& 
given a reception lasting several days. For a week there waa 
a succession of balls and other amusements, and Micheltorena 
made a speech. There were troubles, too, as well as rejoicing. 
Twenty-five of the men deserted and tried to escape into Mex- 
ico, but were overtaken and brought back. It was found that 
a large part of the balls did not fit the guns, and had to be 
remelted. There were also financial difficulties, but the battal- 
ion finally departed, spreading desolation and terror. There is 
no episode of the days of the Mexican rule which caused more 
lieart-burnings than the coming of this band of desperados. 

De Mofras estimated the population at one hundred in this 
year. Three yeai's later the t/)wn had grown somewhat and was 
made a subdivision of the Los Angeles district and Captain 
Santiago E. Argiiello was appointed the fii'st sub-prefect. 

The political life sketched in tliis chapter ended with the Mex- 
ican War, when an entirely different set of men and influences 
took the stage of local history. The soldiers and statesmen of 
Mexico, in their rule of a (juarter of a century, had added prac- 
tically nothing to the accomplishment of their Spanish predeces- 
sors. To a very large extent, they had squandered their time 
and energies in petty squabbles over personal rivalries. They 
had virtually destroyed the economic structure evolved by the 
Mission Fathers and dissipated the strength of the military estab- 
lishment. If commerce prospered to some extent under their 
rule, the fact was chiefly due to the enterprise of outsiders rather 
than to that of the Mexicans. Their policy of dividing the mis- 
sion lands into private grants undoubtedly gave some impulse 
to settlement, but even this development was conducted in the 
most extravagant and wasteful way. 

Before turning to the brighter days which dawned with Amer- 
ican occupation, we must consider several other aspects of San* 
Diego life in the early time. 




CHAPTER IV 

EARLY HOMES, VISITORS, AND FAMILIES 

8 THE citizens and tourists of today look upon 
the cruml)ling adobe walls of Old Town, they 
naturally wonder in what order the houses 
were built, bv whom thev were inhabited in the 
early time, and what visitors from abroad 
mingled in the life of the place and went away 
to speak the name of San Diego in distant 
parts. It is these quiet annals of the old 
time to which this chapter is given. 

There is no record of the erection of any dwelling outside the 
Presidio enclosure earlier than the year 1800., It seems likely 
that the first house at the foot of the hill was a very humble 
affair, and that it was built by Captain Francisco Maria Ruiz. 
The earliest authentic list of houses that has come down to us 
begins with 1821. At that time the following houses were stand- 
ing on the present site of Old Town: 

The small house of Captain Ruiz, on the tract afterward known 
as *' Rose's Garden,'' where he lived until his death in 1839. 
The house has now disappeared. 

The ** Fitch house," a row of buildings where Captain Fitch 
lived and had his store from the early thirties; this is now a 
heap of ruins. 

A building on the comer of Washington and Juan Streets, 
belonging to the Dofia Maria Reyes Ybaiies, the maternal head 
of the Estudillo familv. This house was afterward used bv Jos6 
Maria Estudillo as a stable. It is now in ruins. 

A two-stor>' house on Juan Street, nearly opposite the one last 
named, belonging to Rafaela Serrano. This is now owned by 
Louis Serrano and was occupied until a recent date. 

A small house on the plaza, owned by Juan Maria Marron. 
This house afterward became the property of Andres Pico, and 
the late E. W. Morse was responsible for its final destruction. 
Some of the early views of Old Town show this building stand- 
ing as it did out of line with the others and quite near the **Rose 
house/' where Morse's store w^as located. Having tried in vain 
to buy it from Pico, Mr. Morse bided his time until the easy- 
going Califomian allowed it to be sold for taxes, then bought 
it and immediatelv had it torn down and removed. He re- 



132 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

marked, with a quiet smile, while tellint; this story, that he sup- 
posed the tax title really gave him no rifrht to act so summarily, 
but he correctly ri'Hsoiied that no trouble would come of it. 

These were the five oldest buildinns, all of which were stand- 
iiiK in 1821 and only one of which (the Serrano house) stands 
today. There were in this .■vear several small gardens, or ranch- 
erias, at the foot of the hill and near by in the valley. Don 
Bias Aguiiar recalled the following names of persons then culti- 
vating such places: 

Ignacio Ijopez, Villobobo, .Miguel Blanco, Pedro Garcia, Teno- 
rio, Jose Manuel Silbas, and Andreas Ybarra who afterward 
owned the Encinitos Rancho; all of whom were soldiers and 
whose gardens were in the valley. R^faela Serrano, whose place 
adjoined "Base's garden"; Juan Maehado. who lived a short 
distance up the valley; Juan Maria Ybarra, a lieutenant 




S MACHADO HOUSE, OLD TOWN, (WEST SIDE OF PUAZA) 



from Mazatlan; el Alfercz Delgado ("the thin lieutenant"), 
whose name Aguiiar did not recall, but who was also from Mazat- 
lan ; Lus Buiz, whose place was aei'oss the river, opposite the 
Presidio: Juan Marine, who had a garden and small vineyard 
on the other side of the river going toward the Tecolote; Los 
Arciaa, who had garden and vineyard adjoining that of Marine; 
Santiago Arguello. whose garden was at the first Canada alwve 
the Presidio, called by the pious Cnnaija dr l>i Cruz, but by 
the wild soldiers Cfiiiad^ del Diablo, just above the present 
waterworks. These little farms were scHnuslv damaged in the 
flood of 1821. as already i-ehitcd. 

Iluitding in the tu'w town began to progress as the military 
establishment decayed and commercial prosperity increased. lo 



HISTORIC OLD HOUSES 133 

1824 the "I'ico house" was built, i>ii Junn street, and between 
that year and 183(1 several large and substantial residences 
were eoustrncted. Alfred Robinson, the earliest American 
visitor who has left h good account, says that on his first visit 
in 1829 the town "consisted of about thirty houses of rude 
appearance, mostly occupied by retired veterans." The house 
of Don Juan Bandini, then in an unfinishetl state, excited his 
admiration. This house is one of the utmost historical interest, 
having been the center of soeial gaiety and political affairs 
for nearly twenty \ears. It was the headquarters of Com- 
modore Stockton during the Mexican war. Soon after the civil 
war it was purchased by A. L. Seeley, who added n second story 
of wood and used it as a hotel (the Cosmopolitan) in connection 
with his stage line between San Diego and Los Angeles. It is 
now occupied by Ackerman & TufHey, who iise it as an olive 
pickling works, and it is still in a state of very good repair. 



Jlfe^ 


^■« 


I^HHmi^ 


tMMif^ \m 


i^M' 




'.±.. ^ii^^^^t 



other houses built before the year W30 were: the bouse of 
Jnan Rodriguez, adjoining the Franklin house in later years; 
the house of .lose Antonio Estudillo. later the residence of Josf 
Ouadaliipe Estudillo, and lon^f an important landmark, (this 
house is the picturesfiue niin at the south end of the plaza 
popularly, but erroneously, called the "Ramona house"); the 
house of Dona Tnmaso Alvarado; the "French bakery"'; the 
house of Rosario Aguilar which was situated on what is now 
a vacant lot adjoining the house of Louis Rose; and the Carrillo 
house in "Rose's Garden." adjoining the Serrano house on the 
east. Bandini and Estudillo vcero granted a lot in common in 
1827, which doiditlcss marks the time of their beginning prepara- 
tions to build. 

Some of the accounts of foreign visitoi-s at this time, though 
not always accurate, are worth quoting. Vancouver and Capt. 



134 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Cleveland have already been mentioned. Benjamin Morrell, 
junior, on the American schooner Tartar^ arrived in April, 
1825. He remained twelve days, and in a book which he pub- 
lished in 1832 told some remarkable stories. According to this 
veracious chronicler, the form of the Presidio was ** nearly cir- 
cular, and it is surrounded by a wall about 20 feet in height, 
which formg. the back sides of the houses. There are about 250 
houses erected in this manner, from one to two stories high, built 
of freestone and neatly finished. There is also a large church, 
one nunnery, and a very neat little court-house. This town con- 
tains about 1,500 inhabitants, principally natives of the coast." 
Does the reader care for more? Well, it seems that while here, 
he and seven Spanish comi)anions had a desperate hand-to-hand 
conflict with fifty mounted Indian warriors of whom they killed 
seventeen^ while on a hunting expedition. Notwithstanding^ 
the gallant captain's evident weakness for drawing a long bow, 
his statement that a whale boat was built during his stay here 
is perhaps entitled to belief. 

In December, 1826, the American explorer and trapper, 
Jedidiah S. Smith, and party, who had crossed the desert, follow- 
ing down the Colorado river and reached San Gabriel, were 
brought to San Diego to be dealt with by Governor Echeandla. 
They had a somewhat unfriendly reception, but were allowed to 
secure supplies and depart. The accounts of this visit do not 
seem to include anything of interest regarding the town or people 
of San Diego. 

The next visitor was the French Captain Duhaut-Cilly, who 
came in 1827 and liked the harbor better than the town. He 
writes that the port is ** without doubt the best in all Cal- 
ifornia,'* safer than that of San Francisco even, and that this 
is due to natural advantages rather than to artificial improve- 
ments. He continues: *'A sad place is the Presidio of San 
Diego, the saddest of all that we had visited in California, ex- 
cept San Pedro. It is built on the slope of an arid hill and 
has no regular form. It is a shapeless mass of houses, all the 
more gloomy because of the dark color of the bricks of which 
they are rudely constructed. Under the presidio on a sandy 
plain are seen thirty or forty scattered houses of poor appear- 
ance and a few gardens badly cultivated.'' 

The American, James 0. Pattie, claimed to have spent the 
greater part of the year 1828 in the Presidio prison, and after- 
ward published a narrative in which he described only his 
prison, thus: **My prison was a cell eight or ten feet square, 
with walls and floors of stone. A door with iron bars an inch 
square like the bars of window sashes, and it grated on its iron 
hinges as it opened to receive me. Over the external front of 



THE PATTIE CASE 135 

this prison was inscribed in capital letters Destinacion de la 
Caitivo.*' 

The episode of the Pattie party in 1828 is a most interest- 
ing one and not as well known as it deserves to be. These eight 
Americans occupied a prison on Presidio hill for several months, 
and the leader died there. The feeling of the Californians was 
not particularly hostile to Americans, perhaps rather less so 
than to Spaniards; but all foreigner's were regarded with 
suspicion and kept under as strict a surveillance as the inefficient 
administration of the time could contrive. The earlier visits of 
sea rovers on the coast were now being followed up by incursions 
of trappers and semi-military parties from the interior. Many 
books had appeared giving glowing accounts of the country, and 
the mysterious ichor in the blood of the American pioneer 
which still draws him ever toward the setting sun was full of 
potency. The Californians had just cause for alarm, as events 
soon proved. Some acts of violence and injustice resulted, at 
other places, notably the arrest and deportation to Tepic of a 
large number of foreigners at Monterey and other places in 
1840. But on the whole, considering the volatile temperament 
of the ruling class and the difficult situation in which they found 
themselves, it must be said that they acted toward foreigners 
for the most part with moderation and good sense. The treat- 
ment of the Pattie party, if Pattie \s narrative is to be believed, 
is the single notable exception to this rule, so far as events at 
San Diego are concerned. 

Sylvester Pattie was a Kentuckian, an Indian fighter, lumber- 
man, and trapper. In 1824 he and his son, James 0. Pattie, a 
young man of about twenty, went on an expedition to New 
Mexico, where they remained three years. In September, 1827, 
a company was organized at Santa Fe for the purpose of opera- 
ting on the Colorado river, ^nd the elder Pattie became its cap- 
tain. Eight of this company, including the two Patties, reached 
the junction of the Colorado and Gila rivers on December 1, 
1827, in desperate straits for food and supplies. After floating 
down the Colorado to tide water in a vain search for a mvthical 
settlement of white men, they buried their traps and furs and 
started westward across the desert. They reached the Mission 
of Santa Catalina, in Lower California, on March 21, 1828, 
after suffering severely, and arrived at San Diego, under guard, 
by Echeandia's order, on the 27th. The names of the com- 
panions of the Patties appear to have been James Pnter, Jesse 
Ferguson, Isaac Slover, William Pope, Richard Laujrhlin, and 
Nathaniel M. Pryor. 

The governor, for some reason, chose to regard the unfor- 
tunate men w^ith suspicion and disfavor. lie accused them of be- 
ing Spanish spies, tore up their passport, and ordered them to 



136 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

pi'ison. They were quite willing to die resisting this indignant 
treatment, hut they were disanned, carefully guarded, and locked 
up in separate cells, so that there was never an opportunity to 
attempt an escape. The elder Pattie died within a month, and 
if the account of the son is to be believed, they were all fed on 
insuflScient and nauseating food and subjected to continual 
taunts and insults. It is clear that he totally misunderstood the 
character of the Californians, and in the printed accounts can- 
not sufficiently express his scorn and contempt for the supposed 
cowardice and treachery of his captors. Through the grated door 
of his prison he could see the governor at his residence in the 
center, of the Presidio, and the sight filled him with bitterness. 
**Ah,^' he exclaims, *'that I had had but my trusty rifle well 
charged to my face! Could I have had the pleasure of that 
single shot, I think T would have been willing to have purchased 
it with my life." And again: **IIow earnestly I wished that he 
and I had been together in the wild woods, and I armed with my 
rifle!'' 

But Echeandla's mood was not always inflexible. Within a 
month he allowed young Pattie, who had picked up a little 
Spanish in New Mexico, to leave the prison for the purpose of 
acting as interpreter during the trial of Captain Bradshaw, of 
the Franklin. The governor also employed Pattie as an inter- 
preter and made friendly overtures to him, which the young 
man regarded from the first as *'vile and deceitful lies." He 
took advantage of the op])ortunity to plead his cause and debate 
questions of international law, as well as to endeavor to secure 
permission to return to the Colorado and recover the buried traps 
and furs. He even carried the matter, in his own words, to the 
extent of ' 'teasing him with importunities." But when he re- 
fused to translate any more letters, Echeandia lost patience, 
struck him on the head with the fiat of his sword, and had him 
returned to prison. 

In the following September the governor released the prisoners 
and proposed a plan by which the buried traps and furs might 
be recovered. A military escort was to be provided, greatly to 
the delight of the prisonei-s, who at once formed the resolution 
to overpower the guard and escape at the first opportunity. 
Pattie 's vindictiveness shows itself in his instant resolution to 
**rise upon them, take their hoi*ses for our own riding, fiea (flay) 
some of their skins to show^ that we knew how to inflict torture, 
and send the rest back to the general on foot." At the last 
moment, however, the shrewd old general spoiled the whole plan 
by refusing to send any horses and by keeping the young fire- 
eater hinLself as a hostage for the safe return of the party. **At 
this horrible sentence." he declares, '* breaking upon us in the 



THE GOVERNOR'S ATTITUDE 137 

sanguine rapture of confidence, we all gazed at each other in the 
consternation of despair/' 

The expedition returned in the latter part of September and 
reported that the furs had been spoiled by a rise of the river and 
the traps had to be sold to pay mule-hire. While his comrades 
were gone, Pattie seems to have had a stormy time of it in his 
prison cell, where he lay under constant expectation of a violent 
death. He had some consolations, however; Captain Bradshaw 
had been kind to him, and W. H. Cunningham, A. W. Williams, 
and Seth Rogers are named as captains of American vessels who 
befriended and gave him money. He also had a guardian angel 
in a Spanish young lady whom he calls Miss Peaks, but whom 
Bancroft says was Miss Pico. His ungovernable tongue seems 
to have been largely responsible for most of his troubles, as he 
would not leave off from importuning and disputing with the 
governor. There is no doubt his conduct and language greatly 
exasi)erated the proud old Spaniard. 

There is nothing to show that the six men who went after 
the outfit were incarcerated after their return. The final release 
of the whole party was due to an e])idemic of smallpox which 
broke out in the northern missions. It chanced that Pattie had 
a small quantity of vaccine matter with him, and he resolved to 
use it as a means of obtaining their liberty. As he tells the story, 
he now became master of the situation and dictated terms, re- 
fusing to be set at liberty or to vaccinate the governor or even 
Miss Pico, unless his demands were granted. In return for the 
liberty of himself and men, he would undertake to vaccinate 
everybody in Up])er California. The stories of Pattie and 
others do not agree about this and many other matters. He 
would have it that vaccination was a mvsterv to the Californians 
and Russians, which is not correct. It seems strange, too, that 
if he had this vaccine matter among his effects, the Californians 
should possess neither the intelligence nor the power to find it 
for themselves. After his release he vaccinated everybody at the 
Presidio and Mission and on his arrival at San Francisco, in 
June, 1829, he claimed to have operated on 22,000 persons. 

The truth of the matter probably is that Echeandia was tired 
of the whole business, perhaps convinced that the men were 
hannless, and anxious to find an excuse for releasing them, and 
that Pattie 's threats and violent tongue did him more harm than 
good. At any rate, the governor seems to have seen in Pattie 's 
possession of the vaccine virus and ability to use it, an opportu- 
nity to get rid of his unwelcome visitors and to do something for 
the public health at the same time. 

The principal points in this story, as related above, are in 
accordance with Pattie 's Narrative. Considerable doubt has 
been thrown upon Pattie 's veracity, however, and the present 



138 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

writer cannot vouch for it all. Indeed, it seems highly prob- 
able that the party was not badly treated at San Diego, at all. 
Pryor, Laughlin, and Ferguson remained in California and lived 
in Los Angeles, and the stories they told differed materially 
from young Pattie's. It seems that young Pattie (or, more 
probably, the man who wrote his Narrative, had an unreason- 
ing hatred of Catholics and Spaniards, and the whole book is 
colored by it. For instance, he entirely suppressed the fact, 
which is well authenticated, that the elder Pattie became a 
Catholic before his death and was buried in consecrated ground 
on Presidio Hill, although the picture of *'The Burial of Mr. 
Pattie/' in his Narrative, itself betrays the fact that the inter- 
ment took place on the hill. 

From 1830 onward, the town jrrew rapidly and was soon, for 
the time and country, an important commercial and social center. 
When William Heath Davis first came, in 1831, he found it 
quite a lively town. 

Caj)tain J. C. Bojrait was in charge of the Pacific Mail Steam- 
ship Company's coal hulk, Clarissa Andrews, for many years. 
His reminiscences of the country at that period relate chiefly to 
trees, agriculture, and live stock. He says: **In 1834 it was 
good to see the hills about San Diego. Wild oats grew upon 
them to a height which reached above the head of a man on horse- 
back. Cattle were abundant and rolling in fat. Whenever any 
of the crew of the Black Warrior wished to use a horse, the 
animal was furnished bv the native Calif ornians for a whole dav 
for a dollar. It made no difference if the rider pressed the horse 
to death, so he packed the saddle back. HoT-ses were too plentiful 
to be a matter of any eonsefjuence. " 

The next visitor, in in-dor of time, was the well known Richard 
Henry Dana, who was here in 1830, and whose story has already 
been drawn upon in earlier pages. 

In 1838, there were nine foreigners in San Diego, among whom 
were Thomas Russell and Petov Weldon, who were concerned 
in a search for treasure supposed to be buried at the Mission. 

In the early })art of 1839, a Mr. Spencer came here as one of 
the crew of the Boston ship Sophia. In 1873 he revisited San 
Diego, and in his recollections given at that time recalled the 
San Diego of his earlier visit as **a few miserable huts." He 
may have had a disagreeable exj)erience here which influenced 
his opinion of the place. During their stay, they purchased 
6800 hides of very fat cattle. ''San Diego," he said, ''was at 
that time a beautiful picture of fertility. A luxuriant vege- 
tation graced the mesa. Chaparral and mesquite grew abun- 
dantly and countless herds of cattle pastured around the edge 
of the bay. 



WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS 139 

The decline of San Diego began about 1836 and continued 
steadily until the Mexican War. In 1840, the population was 
the smallest for fifty years. De Mofras estimated it at one 
hundred and Bancroft thinks it was about 150. Late in 1841 
the newly appointed Bishop of the Diocese of Upper California, 
Garcia Diego, came with the intention of making San Diego his 
residence. He abandoned the idea, however, and located at 
Santa Barbara, instead, chiefly on account of the poverty of the 
Mission and town of San Diego. In 1844-6, in an effort to 
raise troops for the defense of the country in the pending Amer- 
ican invasion, there were only about seventy men capable of 
bearing arms. 

The foreign settlers living in San Diego in 1845, according 
to Crosthwaite^s recollection, were: Himself, Henry D. Fitch, 
Don Juan Warner, Abel Stearns, John Porster, Captain John 
S. Barker, Thomas Wrightington, John Post, Peter Wilder, John 
C. Stewart, Thoraa.s Russell, Caesar Walker, Captain Edward 
Stokes, an English carpenter known as ** Chips," Enos A. Wall, 
^ Albert B. Smith, and two negroes named Allen B. Dight and 
Richard Freeman. 

Frequent reference han been made to Alfred Robinson and 
William Heath Davis. Robinson was a native of Massachusetts 
who came here in 1829 as clerk of the ship Brookline. lie was 
baptised as Jose Maria Alfredo before 1833, and early in 1836 
married at Santa Barbara, Ana Maria, daughter of Captain 
Jose de la Guerra y Noriega. This wedding is the one described 
in Dana's book. The following year he and his wife went to 
Boston. He returned in the Alert in 1840, and remained two 
years. His employment in these days was as clerk and super- 
cargo of different ships. In 1849 he returned to California as 
agent for the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, and in later 
years was engaged in some real estate transactions in San Fran- 
cisco. His Life in California is a standard work and one of the 
best of its kind. They had eight children. Mr. Robinson, al- 
though of a somewhat reserved disposition, was a competent man 
and his standing in California was good. Tie deserves to be 
remembered among the pioneers who saw clearly, and judged 
with common sense. 

William Heath Davis was born at Honolulu in 1821. and 
came to California as a boy on the Louisa, in 1831. In Novem- 
ber. 1847, he married Maria de Jesus Estudillo, daughter of 
Jose Joaquin Estudillo. His wife lived in San Diego when 
young, and Mr. Davis's book is full of infoT*mation about the life 
here in earlv da vs. For manv vears he was one of the most 
prominent merchants in San Francisco, and engaged in some of 
the largest trading ventures on the coast. He took little part 
in public affairs, but was a thorough and successful business 



140 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

man. lie resided at San Diego for a short time and part of his 
account of his life here is used in the following chapter. He was 
one of the founders of New San Diego, and built the first wharf 
there in 1850, a circumstance of which he was always proud, 
although the venture was not a financial success. In 1889 he 
published his Sixty Years in California^ which is one of the 
most interesting and informative books ever written about Cal- 
ifornia. In this book, like Alfred Robinson, he stands up man- 
fully in defense of the Californians — that is, of the better 
families, such as that into which he married. 

lie is still living in Oakland, California, and has a new 
set of reminiscences written and ready for publication. 



A DANCE IN OLD SAN DIEOO 

It is on the bough-roofed dancing-floor, 

'Way back in the brave days now no more: 

It is among the cavaliers, 

A -tripping with the lissome dears 

That bared those famous ankles, down 

In gay old San Diego town. 

The viols strike up and the guitar. 

And yonder, as comes the evening star, 

Her filmy skirt a little lifted — 

A curling cloud afloat, wind-shifted. 

Blown now to the left, and now to right — 

Glides Josefita into sight. 

Yon rider, he to every dear 

The boldest, gayest cavalier. 

Is rocking, rocking in his seat, 

Keeping the motion of her feet. 

He turns his horse, he runs him round 

The circuit of the dancing-ground. 

The earth is heaving like an ocean. 

Witched with Josefita 's motion. 

He comes again, he comes a-riding, 

And comes, too. Josefita gliding. 

The bamba! Brighter shines the star; 

He claps his spurs, he leaps the bar. 

Dancing! Sweet heavens, look on her now! 

Not so light are the leaves that dance on the bough. 

The brimming glass upon her head 

Dreams like a lily upon its bed! 

See! Something she whispers in his ear 

That you would give the world to hear. 

Aha! Somebody will come down, 

Tonight, in San Diego town; 

But Where's the shape that he would fear, 

He, Josefita ^8 cavalier! 

— John Vance Cheney. 




CHAPTER V 

PLEASANT MEMORIES OF SOCIAL LIFE 

J)I1ATEVER was lacking in Old Sau Diego, the 
social life was rich and beautiful. This is 
the tcstiimmy of all visitors and all th« old 
renidents who have lived to tell the tale. 
I'eople did not take life too seriously in those 
days. They made the most of their oppor- 
tunities for happiness, and eoltected large 
dividends of eontent, whether they had any 
other sort or nol. The echo of their laughter still rings down 
the pathway of the yeara, and suggestji to the nervous Americans 
of today that there might be some [jleasant compromise between 
the extremes of enei^y and indolence which would result in 
forms of life peculiarly suited to the rare environment of this 
southern land. 

The different classes of society were quite distinct in the 
early time, the division ninninf; <»n lines of birth. Natives of 
Spain or direct deseendants of such natives, constituted the 
upper class and prided themselves ii|ion the piirity of their blood. . 
Aside from this, they had other and better elaims to consider- 
ation, for the,v were usually well educated and always possessed 
of considerable culture. In a society accustomed to caste, they 
naturally assiimed a position of leadei-ship. Some of them were 
gentlemen in reduced circumstances who had taken to soldiering 
in the hope of retrieving their fortunes. Others were men of 
good families who had secured official appointments. All of 
them were proud and dignified in bearing, even when they hap- 
pened to be very poor. 

The lower classes consisted, first, of Mexicans with more or 
less Aztec and Indian blood, and. last of all. the native Indian. 
Most of the Mexicans were soldiers, some of whom brought their 
wives, while othei-s married Indian women after coming here. 
Tbey were a elass corresponding to tlie Spanish peasantry and 
furnished the labor of the country. 

The social customs which flourished in the midst of these 
conditions were so deeply marked with the spirit of common 
kindness that one can hardly esea|>e the tbonsrht that something 
has iieeii lost, as well as liained, in our present-day struggle to 
s:et iihi'ail. as individuals and eommunities. Take, for instance, 



SPANISH HOSPITALITY 143 

the matter of hospitality to strangers. To offer to pay for enter- 
tainment was an affront. The traveler was supplied with a fresh 
horse at everj^ stage of his journey, and had no care or expense 
in the matter of returning them to their owners. On a table 
beside his bed he found a quantity of silver, to which he was 
expected to help himself, according to his needs, and no questions 
were asked. If a man needed a bullock, he might send a vaquero 
to lasso one from the herd of his wealthy neighbor, and pay for 
it when convenient — and if it did not become convenient, it was 
no matter. If a horse were borrowed and not returned, it was 
of no consequence — there were plenty more. The average of 
wealth among the cattle owners was large and their bounty was 
as free as air. 

Incivility was absolutely unknown. Even the poorest peasant 
saluted you politely and was prepared to carry a message or do 
any little courtesy without charge and with an air of cheer- 
fulness and good humor. The kindness of the people was gen- 
uine and unaffected. It was the custom to call all persons by 
their Christian names, with an easy familiarity. Older men re- 
ceived the prefix of Don or Renor Don, and ladies of Dona or 
Senorita Dona, if unmarried, and Senora Dona, if married. It 
was also quite usual to playfully nickname one's intimate friends 
in a humorous manner to which the Spanish language lends it- 
self most happily. For instance, Wm. A. Gale was known as 
Quatro Ojos (four eyes), on account of his wearing glasses. 
He was also called Torinenta (gale), and Camhalachf (barter), 
both for obvious reasons. 

One of the most remarkable characteristics of the Californians 
was the very great respect shown to parents by their children. 
This deference was not abandoned with the passing years, but 
even a grown man coming into the presence of his father or 
mother always removed his hat and remained standing until 
invited to sit. No man, whatever his age, ever smoked in the 
presence of his father or mother. If a young man met an elder 
in the street, he would throw away his cigar and lift his hat, 
whether to his parents or a stranger. Servants showed the same 
deference to their employers. One scarcely knows what to say 
about the current stories of old men chastising their grown sons, 
and the latter, although themselves the fathers of families, 
kneeling meekly to receive the punishment. They may be true, 
and do seem fairly well authenticated. 

The better class of Californians were temperate, with few ex- 
ceptions. They were fond of smoking, however, and the habit 
was almost universal with them. The Mexican ladies were also 
fond of tobacco, and brought the custom of smoking cigaritos to 
California. 



144 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Notions of propriety were strict and young people, even when 
engaged, were not left to thenLselves. Courtships were usually 
arranged by the mother or aunt of the young lady. This was 
followed by a written proposal for the young lady's hand, from 
the suitor to her father, and the reply was also given in writing. 
Weddings were made the occasion of much social gaiety. Davis 
says that at a wedding which he attended in 1838, he was met on 
the road by a brother of the groom, gorgeously attired and 
splendidly mounted. Horses were lassoed for the wedding 
cavalcade. He had brought his own saddle, according to the 
custom, even though a guest. There were two cavalcades for the 
use of the party, one of red roan horses and the other of twenty- 
five blacks. On returning from the Mission and approaching 
the house of the groom's father, the old gentleman fired a salute 
with a brass cannon which ho kept in the plaza in front of the 
dwelling. 

It was customary for the Californians to marry young. One 
reason for this was in order that the young men might thereby 
escape being drafted into the army. It was not uncommon for 
boys of sixteen, or seventeen, and girls of fifteen or sixteen, to 
marry. Balls given at the celebration of the nuptials usually 
lasted three days. Arbors were carefully prepared, with beaten 
earthen floors, and lined with sheets and other articles to exclude 
the wind. The feasting and dancing did not cease, night or 
day. 

One of the best descriptions of the wedding customs is that 
contained in Dana's Two Years Before the }fast, wherein he 
describes the wedding of Alfred Robinson and Sefiorita de la 
Guerra y Noriega, at Santa Barbara in 183^i. He says: 

At ton o'clock tlic briflo wont up witli her sister to tho con- 
fessional, dressed in deep black. Nearly an hour intervened, 
when the great doors of the mission-chnrch opened, the bells 
ran^ out a loud, discordant peal, a private signal was run up for 
us by the captain ashore, the bride, dressed in complete white, 
came out of the church with the bridegroom, followed by a long 
procession. Just as she ste])ped from the church door, a small 
white cloud issued from the bows of our ship, which was in 
full sight, a loud report echoed among the surrounding hills and 
over the bay, and instantly the ship was dressed in flags and 
pennants from stem to stern. Twenty-three guns followed in 
regular succession, with an interval of fifteen seconds between 
each, when the cloud cleared away, and the ship lay dressed in 
her colors all day. At sundown another salute of the same 
number of guns was fired, and all the flags run down. 

After su|)per we rowed ashore, dresseil in our uniforms, beached 
the boat, and went up to the fiindanpo. As we drew near 
we heard the accustomed sound of violins and guitars, and saw 
a great motion of the ])eople within. Going in, we found nearly 
all the people of the town — men, women, and children — collected 
and crowded together, leaving barely room for the dancers; 



A TYPICAL WEDDING 145 

for on these occasions no invitations are given, but every one is 
expected to come, though there is always a private entertain- 
ment within the house for particular friends. The old women 
sat down in rows, clapping their hands to the music, and 
applauding the young ones. After the supper the waltzing be- 
gan, which was confined to a very few of the gente de razon and 
was considered a high accomplishment and a mark of aristoc- 
racy. The great amusement of the evening — which I suppose 
was owing to its being carnival — was the breaking of eggs 
filled with cologne, or other essences, upon the heads of the com- 
pany. One end of the egg is broken and the inside taken out, 
then it is partly filled with cologne, and the hole sealed up. 
The women bring a great number of these secretly about them, 
and the amusement is, to break one upon the head of a gentle- 
man when his back is turned. He is bound in gallantry to find 
out the lady and return the compliment, though it must not 
be done if the person sees you. A tall, stately don, with 
immense grey whiskers and a look of great importance, was 
standing before me, when I felt a light hand on my shoulder, 
and turning round saw Dona Augnstia (whom we all knew, as 
she had been up to Monterey and down again in the Alert), 
w4th her finger on her lip, motioning me gently aside. I stepped 
back a little, when she went up behind the don, and with 
one hand knocked off his huge sombrero, and at the same 
instant, with the other, broke the egg upon his head, and 
springing behind me was out of sight in a moment. The don 
turned slowly round, the cologne running down his face and 
over his clothes, and a loud laugh breaking out from every 
quarter. He looked round in vain for some time, until the 
direction of so many laughing eyes showed him the fair of- 
fender. She was his niece, and a great favorite with him, so 
old Domingo had to join in the laugh. A great many such 
tricks were played, and many a war of sharp manoeuvering 
was carried on between the couples of the younger people; 
and at every successful exploit a gen^pral laugh was raised. . . . 
The next day two of us were sent up to the town, and took 
care to come back by the way of Captain Noriega's. The 
musicians were still there, scraping and twanging away, and 
a few people, apparently of the lower classes, were dancing. 
The dancing is kept up at intervals throughout the day, but 
the crowd, the spirit, and the ^litc come in at night. 

A more intimate view is given by Robinson himself, in his 
account of the wedding of his wife's sister, a little earlier, both 
the contracting parties, in this case, being Spanish : 

On the marriage eve, the bride went with her father to 
the Mission, dressed in her usual church costume, which was 
deep black; where the joining of hands took place towards 
morning, and, at a later hour, the church ceremonies were per- 
formed. Breakfast was served with considerable taste, a task 
to which the worthy friar was fully competent. At its conclu- 
sion the bride and bridegroom were escorted to the house of 
her father. Padre Antonio had made his Indians hap|)y by 
distributing presents among them; and many of the younger 
ones, well attired for the occasion, joined in the procession. 
They approached the town without any regular order, until 



« HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

arriving almost witliia its preciactB; whtn, under the dirce- 
tinn of tlif frinr. thoy formed and man-bed in tbe following 
maimer. First i-anie the militarj band, consisting of ab*)!)! 
twenty [>er formers, who were Jressed in a new uniform of 
red jaehets trimmed with vetlnw cord, white pantaloons made 
after the Turkish fashion, 'and red caps of the Polish order. 
Then followed the bride and bridefrroom. in an open English 
baruuehe. aerompanied by the sister of tbe former. After these, 
in a close carriage, came Don Jos^ and Father Antonio; in 
another the 3fa<lnna Igodmotber) and consin; and lastly, num- 
bers of men and women on horseback. Guns were fired, alter- 
nately, at the MiBsiou and in the Presidio, until tbeir arrival 
at tbe house, to the fiesta df boda [nuptial feast]. .At 
one o'clock a largo number of invited guests sat down at a 
long table, to partake of iin eic-plleni dinner. The married 




OLD SAN DIEGO IN 1S46 



couple were seated at tbe head willi the father spiritual on 
the right, and the father temporal on tbe left. Dinner being 
over, part of tbe company retired to their homes, whilst some 
of the younger adjourned to a booth, which was prepared in 
the eourlyard. snftirieutly large to contain several hundred 
people. Here they tlsneed awhile, and then retired. Early in 
the evening, people, invited and uninvited, began to till up 
the booth, and soon dancing commenced. The music consisted 
of two violins and a j;n'tar. on which were performed many 
beautiful waltzes and contra danees. together with a great 
number of local metodies. During the evening all took active 
part in the amusement, and as the poorer classes exhibited 
their graceful performances, tbe two fathers, from an ele- 
vated position, threw at their feet, silver dollars and doub- 
loons. The fandango . lasted until the morning light 



FUNERAL CUSTOMS 147 

appeared, accompanied with all the variety customary on such 
occasions. 

On the next day, Father Antonio, as a further compliment to 
the bride, had dinner prepared in the corridor of the Mission 
— the table reaching from one end to the other, and the place 
being adorned with flags. Here all the town was invited to 
participate, when old and young, rich and poor, lame and blind, 
black and white, joined in the feast. For several succeeding 
nights the fandango was repeated at the booth, and they had 
enough of feasting and dancing intermingled with the amuse- 
ments of the Carnestolendas [shrove- tide] to last them for 
some time. 

The usual season for Carnestolendas is during the three days 
previous to Ash Wednesday, but here they commence two weeks 
earlier. Whilst these amusements last, it is dangerous for one 
to go into a house where he is acquainted, for he is liable to 
' be well drenched with Cologne or scented water. This is accom- 
plished by the following preparatory process. As many eggs as 
may be required, are emptied of their contents, by perforating 
a hole at each end, through which they are blown by the 
mouth. The shells are afterwards immersed in a large basin 
of prepared essences, with which they are partly filled, and 
the holes then sealed with wax. Thus made ready, they are 
broken upon the heads of individuals; but it must be under- 
stood, that this is done only where great intimacy exists be- 
tween the parties. Oftentimes invitations are given for a 
select company to assemble at a specified place, when all 
attend at the time appointed, ^* armed and equipped " for a battle 
with the eggs. On such occasions, as the excitement grows 
warm, and the ammunition becomes nearlv exhausted, thev 
resort to wet napkins, which they slap at each other. From 
these they have recourse to tumblers of water, and from 
these to pitchers, and from pitchers to buckets, until, tired 
and exhausted by the exercise, they desist! 

Even a funeral was made the occasion of feast int< and danc- 
ing. Dana thus describes his first encounter wnth this custom 
in Santa Barbara: 

Inquiring for an American who, we had been told, had mar- 
ried in the place, and kept a shop, we were directed to a long, 
low building, at the end of which was a door with a sign 
over it in Spanish. Entering the shop, we found no one in 
it, and the whole had a deserted appearance. In a few min- 
utes the man made his appearance, and apologized for having 
nothing to entertain us with, saying that he had had a fan- 
dango at his house the night before, and the people had eaten 
and drunk up everything. ''Oh, yes!'^ said I, .** Easter holi- 
days." *'No, " said he, with a singular expression on his 
face, *'I had a little daughter die the other day, and that^s 
the custom of the country." 

At this I felt a little strangely, not knowing what to say, 
or whether to offer consolation or no, and was beginning to 
retire when he opened a side-door and told us to walk in. 
Here I was no less astonished; for I found a large room filled 
with young girls from three or four years of age up to fif- 
teen or sixteen, dressed all in white, with wreaths of flowers 



148 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

on their heads and bouquets in their hands. Follow- 
ing our conductor among all these girls, who were play- 
ing about in high spirits, we came to a table at the end of 
the room, covered with a white cloth, on which lay a coffin 
about three feet long with the body of his child. Through 
an open door we saw in another room a few elderly people in 
common dresses; while the benches and tables thrown up in 
a -^orner and the stained walls gave evident signs of last 
night's "high go.'' 

Later in the dav, the sailors rode out to the Mission and 
overtook the funeral procession. The coffin was borne by 
eight girls, who were continually relieved by others, running 
forward from the procession and taking their places. Behind 
it came a straggling company of girls, dressed as before, in 
white and flowers, and including, I should suppose by their 
numVjera, all the girls between five and fifteen in the place. 
They played along on the way, frequently stopping and run- 
ning altogether to talk to some one, or to pick up a flower, 
and then running on again to overtake the coffin. There were 
a few elderly women in common colors; and a herd of young 
men and boys, some on foot and others mounted, followed 
them, or walked or rode by their side, frequently interrupting 
them by jokes or questions. But the most singular thing of 
all was that two men walked, one on each side of the coffin, 
carrying muskets in their hands, which they continually 
loa<led and fired into the air. 

Some of the things at Avhich Dana wondered seem natural 
and ])eantifnl enou^^h. Mrs. Whaler describes a funeral at Old 
San Die«(o, which was very similar, except that the body was 
carried on a bier and not phieed in the coffin until the cemetery 
was reached. A priest walked before, sayin«: prayers, and the 
musicians walked on both sides playin<? violins, guitars, and 
other instruments. At the rear followed a man with firecrack- 
ers whicli he was settinj; off as they moved. 

The last interment in the cemetery within the presidial 
enclosure was that of Captain Fitch, in 1849. Nothing now 
remains to show that the spot was ever used for such a purpose. 
The Catholic cemetery on the mesa was used until February, 
1874, when the large new cemetery, on the hill above the town, 
was laid out under Father Ubach's direction, and has been in 
use ever since. 

On the subject of dancing and other amusements, it is again 
convenient to draw upon Robinson. Don Juan Bandini had 
his house blessed during the stay of Gale and Robinson at San 
Diego in 1829. and they were invited to attend. 

The ceremony took place at noon, when the chaplain pro- 
ceerlcd through the different apartments, sprinkling holy water 
upon the walls, and uttering v^erses in Latin. This concluded, 
we sat down to an excellent dinner, consisting of all the lux- 
uries the place afforded, provided in Don Juan's best style. 
As Foon as the cloth was removed, the ^litar and the violin 



BLESSING BANDINI'S HOUSE 149 

were put in requisition, and a dance began. It lasted, how- 
ever, but a little while, for it was necessary for them to spare 
their exertions for the evening fandango. So poco a poco 
[little by little], all gradually retired to their homes. 

At an early hour the different passages leading to the house 
were enlivened with men, women, and children, hurrying to 
the dance; for on such occasions it was customary for every- 
body to attend without waiting for the formality of an invi- 
tation. A crowd of leperos [dependents] was collected about 
the door when we arrived, now and then giving its shouts of 
approbation to the performances within, and it was with some 
difficulty we forced our entrance. Two persons were upon the 
floor dancing el jarabe. They kept time to the music, by 
drumming with their feet, on the heel and toe system, with 
such precision, that the sound struck harmoniously upon the 
ear, and the admirable execution would not have done injus- 
tice to a pair of drumsticks in the hands of an able professor. 
The attitude of the female dancer was erect, with her head 
a little inclined to the right shoulder, as she modestly cast her 
eyes to the floor, whilst her hands gracefully held the skirts 
of her dress, suspending it above the ankle so as to expose to 
the company the execution of her feet. Her partner, who 
might have been one of the interlopers at the door, was under 
full speed of locomotion, and rattled away with his feet with 
wonderful dexterity. His arms were thrown carelessly behind 
his back, and secured, as they crossed, the j>oint of his scrape 
[sash], that still held its place upon his shoulders. Neither 
had he doffed his sombrero, but just as he stood when gazing 
from the crowd, he had placed himself upon the floor. 

The conclusion of this performance gave us an opportunity 
to edge our way along towards the extremity of the room, 
where a door communicated with an inner apartment. Here 
we placed ourselves, to witness in a most favorable position 
the amusements of the evening. The room was about fifty 
feet in length, and twenty wide, modestly furnished, and its 
sides crowded with smiling faces. Upon the floor were accom- 
modated the children and Indian girls, who, close under the 
vigilance of their parents and mistresses, took part in the 
scene. The musicians again commencing a lively tune, one 
of the managers approached the nearest female, and, clapping 
his hands in accompaniment to the music, succeeded in bring- 
ing her into the centre of the room. Here she remained 
awhile, gently tapping with her feet upon the floor, and then 
giving two or three whirls, skipped away to her seat. Another 
was clapped out, and another, till the manager had passed the 
compliment throughout the room. This is called a son^ and 
there is a custom among the men, "when a dancer proves par- 
ticularly attractive to anyone, to place his hat upon her head, 
while she stands thus in the middle of the room, which she 
retains until redeemed by its owner, with some trifling pres- 
ent. During the performance of the dances, three or four male 
voices occasionally took part in the music, and towards the 
end of the evening, from repeated applications of agiiardiente 
[brandy], they become quite boisterous and discordant. 

The waltz was now introduced, and ten or a dozen couple 
whirled gaily around the room, and heightened the charms of 



150 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

thf dance hy tbe introduction of Dumeroua and interesting 
figiircD. Between tlie dances refreshmenta were handed to the 
ladies, whilst in au adjoining apartment, a table was prepared 
for the males, who partook without ceremony. The moat inter- 
estiug of all their dances is the contra danza, and this, also, 
may be eonsidered the most graceful. Its figures are intri- 
cate, and in connection with the waltz, form a charming com- 
bination. These fandango» usually hold out till daylight, and 
at intervals the people at the door are permitted to introduce 
their jarabeg and j'oliu. 

The bamha was a favorite dance, in which the lady would 
ofteu dance with a glass of water poised on her head, or with 
her fi'ct nmSIed in a haadkerchief. The jota and the zorrita 
were danced by couples and accompanied by Hinjting. The coit- 
trn-d<iiiza was indidped in by the better classes and young persons 
seldom participated. 

Before 1800. few houses had other than an earth floor, and 
the dancing was done ujwn tbe ground, which from constant use 
became very hard. A wooden platform was constructed, upon 




BANDINI HOUSE, OLD TOWN, (PRESENT APPBARANCB) 

which the women and more skillful males might dance. After 
the ball was over, the men in grtrnps accompanied the women to 
their homes, playinfr mnsic as they went. After this, they would 
sometimes ride about the streets and sing or indulge in rougher 
sports. 

"How often." exclaims Doiia Refu^ria de Baudini, "did we 
spend half the night at h trrlutia till 2 o'clock in the morning, 
in the most agreeable tiiid distinguislied society. Our house 
would be full of company — thirty or forty persons at the table; 
it would have to be set twice. A single fiesta might cost $1,000, 
but in those daj-s the receipts at my husband's store were 



THE GAY FIESTAS 151 

$18,000 a month. The prettiest women were to be found at 8au 
Diego." 

'*Ah, what times we used to have," exclaims another, ** every 
week to La Playa, aboard the ships — silks! officers! rehozos! 
music! dancing! frolic!" 

These **good times" continued until long after the American 
occupation and formed the pleasantest part of the recollections 
of old settlers now living. * * We used to have great times here, ' ' 
says one, *'real jolly good times. The people didn't think of 
anj-thing else, then, but pleasure and amusement. We used to 
have fandangos, or little parties, at night. We could get up 
one of these balls in a couple of hours. There was horse-racing, 
too." Mrs. Whalev relates that on the dav of her arrival, the 
8th of December, 1853, there was a festival and ball at the Gila 
House and she was prevailed upon to go. **We had splendid 
dances there," she says. **The musicians were Californians and 
played only Spanish airs. They looked as if they were asleep 
while they played. I remember particularly the cascoroues — 
eggs filled with tinsel and cologne water, which were broken 
over the heads of the dancers. I have had manv a cascarone 
broken on my head. The suppers were also fine, but at first I 
found the Spanish cooking too highly seasoned for my taste." 

The frequent fiestas were one of the most highly prized fea- 
tures of the social life of early days, and one which persisted 
after nearly all the other characteristic amusements had passed 
away. In the Herald of September 3, 1853, Lieut. Derby wrote : 
^*The. great event of the past week has been the fiesta at San 
Luis Rev. Manv of our citizens attended, and a verv large num- 
ber of native Californians and Indians collected from the vari- 
ous ranchos in the vicinity. High mass was celebrated in the 
old church on Thui-sday morning, an Indian baby was baptized, 
another nearly killed by being run over by an excited individ- 
ual on an excited horse, and that day and the following were 
passed in witnessing the absurd efforts of some twenty natives 
to annoy a number of tame bulls, with the tips of their horns 
cut off. This great national amusement, ironically termed bull- 
fighting, consists in waving a serape, or handkerchief, in front 
of the bull until he is sufficiently annoyed to nin after his tor- 
mentor, when that individual gets out of his way, with great 
precipitation. The nights are passed in an equally intellectual 



manner." 



On August 28, 1858, Editor Ames says: **Our quiet village 
was nearly deserted during the whole of last week, the greater 
portion of our citizens being absent at the Feast. We have 
heard it estimated that 3,000 persons were present at San Luis 
Rey during the Feast week." 




152 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Horse-racing was a common source of diversion and was in- 
dulged in by all classes. No feast day passed without a num- 
ber of races, which were always attended with great interest 
and sometimes large sums of money were lost and won. They 
were usually run by two horses, in short heats of from two to 
four hundred yards. Dana found the population greatly inter- 
ested and excited by these events. The Old San Diego race- 
course was on the flat ground between the town and San Diego 
Bay, and in the fifties and sixties some famous races took place 
there. 

In its first number, October 3, 1868, the Union says: ** To- 
morrow at two o'clock a two-mile race will be run over the Mis- 
sion track. Alfredo Carrillo names b. h. Muggins, Jesus Mar- 
ron names b. h. Buck. We are not advised as to the amount of 
the stakes, but learn that besides a large amount of money 
already up, the winner takes the lasing horse.'' In early times, 
when money was scarce, the stakes were more often in cattle. 

It is to be feared that bull-and-bear fights were not unknown 
here, although not so connnon as in other i)arts of the territory. 
The animals were placed in a strong enclosure and the whole 
population went to see tlie combat, seats being provided for 
women and children. A hind Jeg of the bear and a fore leg of 
the bull were strapped together, and the combat sometimes 
lasted for hours before one of the animals succumbed. 

Far more pleasant to recall are tlie picnics, in which it was 
the custom to indulge with joyous abandon. The married ladies 
rode on their own saddles, while the young women were carried 
on horseback by the young men. This service was considered a 
post of honor, and discharged in the most polite and gallant 
manner possible. A bride was often carried to church in tliis 
manner. Sometimes the picnickers would ride in wagons drawn 
by oxen, and, if one of tlieir number could play, there would 
be both instrumental and vocal music, going and coming. At 
the picnic grounds, mats were spread and a feast held, after 
which games were played. In the evening, after the return, 
the day would be finished with the inevitable dancing. 

The only tiling resembling dramatic performances were the 
past ores, or sacred comedies, in which the inhabitants took a 
deep interest. On Christmas niglit, 1837, such a pastorcla was 
performed, and Alfred Robinson has left an account of it. 
Among tlie performers were Guadalupe Estudillo, Felipe Mar- 
ron, Isadora Pico, and other girls. He thus describes the per- 
formance and the midnight mass which preceded it: 

At an early hour illuminations commenced, fire-works were 
set off, and all was rejoicing. The church bells rang merrily, 
and long before the time of mass the pathways leading to the 
Presidio were enlivened by crowds hurrying to devotion. T 



A MEMORABLE CHRISTMAS 153 

accompanied Don Jos6 Antonio [Estudillo], who procured for 
me a stand where I could see distinctly everything that took 
place. The mass commenced, Padre Vicente de Oliva offici- 
ated, and at the conclusion of the mysterious sacrificio he pro- 
duced a small image representing the infant Saviour, which 
he held in his hands for all who chose to approach and kiss. 
After this, the tinkling of the guitar was heard without, the 
body of the church was cleared, and immediately commenced 
the harmonious sounds of a choir of voices. The characters 
entered in procession, adorned with appropriate costumes, and 
bearing banners. There were six females representing shep- 
herdesses, three men and a boy. One of the men personated 
Lucifer, one a hermit, and the other Bartolo, a lazy vagabond, 
whilst the boy represented the arch-angel Gabriel. The story 
of their performance is partially drawn from the Bible, and 
commences with the angel's appearance to the shepherds, his 
account of the birth of our Saviour, and exhortation to them 
to proceed to the scene of the manger. Lucifer appears among 
them, and endeavors to prevent the prosecution of their jour- 
ney. His influences and temptations are about to succeed, 
when Gabriel again appears and frustrates their effect. A dia- 
logue is then carried on of considerable length relative to the 
attributes of the Deitv, which einls in the submission of Satan. 
The whole is interspersed with songs and incidents that seem 
better adapted to the stage than the church. For several days 
this theatrical representation is exhibited at the principal 
houses, and the performers at the conclusion of the play are 
entertained with refreshments. The bovs take an enthusiastic 
part in the performance, and follow about from house to house, 
perfectly enraptured with the comicalities of the hermit and 
Bartolo. 

In later days there was an occasional circus, which must have 
been a godsend to the laughter-lovinp: people. The late Mrs. E. 
W. Morse, who arrived here in July, 1865, says: 

A Spanish circus visited San Diego soon after my arrival. It 
exhibited in the evening in a corral with high adobe walls, the 
company having no tents. The place was lighted by strips of 
cloth laid in cans of lard and then set on fire. The primitive 
lanterns were set on high posts and at best furnished a poor 
light. The spectators included nearly all of the population of 
the town who could pay the admittance fee of fifty cents. I 
think the Indians were admitted at half-price. The Americans 
and Spanish occupied one side of the corral, and the Indians 
squatted on the ground on the other. The performances on 
the trapeze and tight-rope looked especially weird and fantas- 
tic in the smoky light of those primitive lanterns. 

The Californians were famous horsemen, as everyone knows. 
Indeed, the Californian who was not a good rider was looked 
upon with contempt. The greatest tribute which could be made 
to friendship, was a present of a good horse. The usual gait in 
riding was a hard gallop, which was not slackened even when 
lighting a cigar. The trappings were heavy and gorgeous and 




154 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

covered the horse from neck to tail. Many of the ladies were 
skillful riders. Their saddles had no stirrup, but they rested 
their foot in the loop of a silken band, instead. 

The only other means of locomotion was in the primitive ox- 
carts of the time, which were truly a survival of ante-diluvian 
days. They had either two or four wheels, which were made 
of the section of a tree about four feet in diameter, sawed off 
about a foot thick. The body of the vehicle was set upon the 
axle, with no springs. A light canopy was erected over this. 
They were all wood, no metal at all being used. The cart was 
drawn by oxen, the tongue being attached to their horns by 
ropes. The driver walked in front, to guide the t^am, and the 
women and children in the body of the cart prodded them with 
sticks. This primitive contrivance was the only means of con- 
veyance, besides horseback riding, for many years. All freight- 
ing was done in this manner and many long journeys performed, 
as well as nearby picnics. Considerable skill was required to 
guide these carts safely over the crude roads. It is said that 
the Californians were somewhat negligent about keeping the 
axles greased and did not mind the frightful shrieks which 
usually accompanied their progress. It is said, too, that it was 
not uncommon for the oxen to be trained to run races, and that 
this diversion was ofttMi indulged in on the way to and from 
church. 

E. W. Morse related that one Pedro Gastelhum left his home 
in Ensenada, with his family, and traveled in such a conveyance 
to the homes of friends and relatives in Sonora, fully a thousand 
miles. **It may have taken them six months to reach their des- 
tination,*' says Mr. Morse, **but what of it? Unlike the Gringos, 
they saw no need of hurrying and worrying through this life. 
Their countrymen occupied ranches all along the route, to which 
they were heartily welcome, without money and without price, 
whether their stay was long or short. This family returned in 
the same manner, having been gone about two years, and, I 
doubt not, have always looked upon that trip as the most enjoy- 
able of their lives." 

This was the only vehicle in the country until the fifties. 
In 1853, Abel Stearns imported a carriage from Boston, which 
was looked upon by the Californians as a deplorable and dan- 
gerous piece of vanity. At Santa Barbara, where there was 
more wealth, we have seen that Captain de la Guerra y Noriega 
owned a barouche several years earlier. 

The Californians were not, as a rule, fond of hunting al- 
though they sometimes indulged in such branches of the sport 
as could be pursued on horseback. It was great fun to lasso 
a bear and lead him home, gagged and foaming, to be kept for 
a bull-and-bear fight on the next feast day. For game which. 



WHEN GAME WAS PLENTIFUL 



155 



had to be stalked on foot, or in boats, however, they had small 
taste. There was nothint; of the spirit of the pot-hunter about 
them. The testimony concerning the abundance and variety of 
game in the country is quite eonclusive. Besides those which 
have been previously mentioned, antelope were very plentiful. 
In the early fifties. Captain Bogart sowed a field of barley on 
North Island, but reaped nothing, for the antelope came along 
the peninsula at night and ate it up. In 1853, a party of four 
San Diegans, who had been camping on the hills for ten days, 
brought into town forty deer and "a cord" of smaller game, 
and this was only one instance out of many. As late as 1868 
deer and antelope were plentiful at the Encinitos. In March, 
1869, a son of Captain Enirlish, assisted by a Californian. cap- 




WRIGHTINGTON HOUSE, SHOWING THE COURT 



tured a lar^e wildcat on the mesa between old and new San 
Diego, and in December, 1871, the San Dietro markets were well 
supplied with venison. 

Dana tells how, while left in charge of a hide house in San 
Diego for some weeks, a part of his duties was to gather wood 
for use in cooking. This fuel consisted of scrub oak trees, 
which they brought in on a hand-cart, from the hills back of 
La Playa. While so engaped, they had considerable sport with 
various kinds of game. Coyotes (which Dana calls coatis) were 
80 plentiful that the pack of dogs kept at the hide houses fre- 
quently caught and killed them. They also shot hares and 



156 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

rabbits, and Dana makes quite a story of the killing of a rattle- 
snake. 

The rodeos, or '* round-ups ' ' of cattle, were held frequently for 
the purpose of keeping the herds together, as well as of brand- 
ing the cattle. They were more in the nature of sport than of 
labor and gave fine opportunity for the display of horsemanship. 
As the importance of the cattle interest increased, regulations 
were enacted by the territorial assembly for the due government 
of these important functions, which were presided over by the 
juez del campo, or judge of the plains. These officials were 
continued under the American administration and regularly ap- 
pointed for several years. 

The houses in which the Calif ornians lived were of a type 
peculiarly adapted to the climate and to their habits of life. 
The walls were of adobes, or large, thin, sun-dried bricks. Us- 
ually there was no frame-work, and no wood in the structure 
except the doors, window frames, and roof timbers. The walls 
were laid up and cemented with mud and whitewashed without 
and within. The roof timbers were laid upon the walls, usually 
without other support, and the roof covered with thin red tiles 
so shaped and laid a.s to be an effectual protection against rain. 
The poorer people used tule or earth instead of tiles, for their 
roofs. The wealthier classes had board floors, either at first or 
later on, but othei*s were content with the hard-packed ground. 
Doors were sometimes of wood, but not infrequently consisted 
of a dried bullock's hide, especially on ranchos. When carefully 
built, these houses were very comfortable as well as durable; 
but when exposed unprotected to the weather, they soon decayed. 
There were no stairs to climb and no plumbing to get out of 
order; they were cool in summer and warm in winter; and the 
extent to which the later comers are reverting to the Mission 
type of architecture shows how sensibly they were built. 

Some of these houses — the simplest — consisted of only four 
walls and one room. The next better ones had a partition, mak- 
ing two apartments, and a little farther up the scale, a very long 
building was erected, with numerous rooms and entrances. But 
the highest type of house was built in the Spanish fashion, in 
a square, with an inner court. This patio was surrounded by 
a corridor, off which doors opened into the rooms. Several of 
the houses in old San Diego were of this kind. 

The furniture was simple — in the earliest days quite primitive. 
Later, the wealthier families secured furniture from Spain and 
bought that made at the missions. A good deal of this old Span- 
ish and mission-made furniture can still be found at the country 
seats of the principal ranchos. When the Boston ships began 
to pursue their profitable traffic in hides, they brought quantities 
of New England-made furniture, which became the rage and 



THE DIET OF THE TIME 157 

was preferred in San Diego to the plainer and more substantial 
Spanish and mission products. 

The Californians ate a great deal of meat — almost subsisted 
upon it. The staple food was beef broiled on an iron rod, or 
steak with onions, and sometimes mutton, chicken, and ej^rgs. A 
lunch put up for Alfred Robinson in San Diego consisted of 
one boiled chicken, one smoked beef tongue, half a dozen hard- 
boiled eggs, a loaf of bread, a small cheese, a bottle of wine, and 
a little paper of salt and pepper — not bad, if one were not a 
vegetarian. The bread was tortillas, sometimes made with j-east. 
Beans they knew how to cook admirably, also corn and potatoes. 
Their tamales and chili con came (meat cooked with chili 
peppers) are too well know^n to require description. The use 
of soups was understood, and fish were considerably eaten, 
especially on Fridays. 

Duhaut-Cilly says that the Californians considered venison 
unfit for food. We also learn that they cared little for mutton, 
pork, or bear's meat, but were exceedingly fond of veal. They 
were famous makers of sugared pastry. The cooks were largely 
Indians who had been trained for the work, and some of whom 
became quite expert. This was something to which the later 
comers found it hard to become accustomed. Mrs. Moise said 
respecting this matter: **The cooking at the hotel was quite 
unlike the cooking at the Hotel Del Coronado at the present 
time. I sat at the table alone, being the only woman in the 
house. An Indian boy waited on me at the table, and also gave 
me the news of the town. The landlord, an Irish gentleman, 
kindly told me that I could go into the kitchen and cook what- 
ever I wished, if I did not like the Indian style. I availed my- 
self of the privilege and there were some interesting discoveries. 
The cook was sitting on a bench in front of an open sack of 
flour, vigorously scratching his head. This brought unpleasant 
suggestions to mind, as did also his stirring of the food while 
it was cooking with his long hair dangling over it.'* 

When diet is mentioned, one naturally thinks of the fondness 
of Californians for high seasoning. The use of red peppers in 
meat was quite general. In hot countries, these peppei's serve 
a highly important use and are to the Spaniard very much what 
his pork and beans are to the Boston ian. In the cool climate 
of San Diego, their use would not appear to have been so 
necessary. 

The women were neat and cleanly in their housekeeping. The 
bedding, especially, was much praised. The coverlids and pillow- 
cases were frequently of satin and trimmed with beautiful and 
costly lace. Except in a few of the wealthiest families, no 
table was set, but the family would proceed to the kitchen where 



158 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

food was passed around in plates or clay dishes. Forks and 
spoons were of horn. 

The subject of dress is another of those topics which can 
scarcely be touched without the temptation to write a volume, 
but to which only a paragraph can be given. The dress worn 
by middle class women was a chemise with short sleeves, em- 
broidered and trimmed with lace. A muslin petticoat was 
flounced with scarlet and secured at the waist by a scarlet band. 
Shoes w ere of velvet or blue satin, and with a cotton scarf, pearl 
necklace and earrings, completed the costume. The hair was 
worn plaited and hanging down the back. Others substituted a 
silk or satin shawl for the reboso. 

The English style of dress was early adopted, especially by 
the better class. When Robinson first came, the picturesque 
Spanish costumes were almost universally worn by both sexes. 
The ordinary dress of the men was in short clothes and jacket 
trimmed with scarlet, a silk sash about the waist, botas of orna- 
mented and embroidered deer skin, secured by colored garters, 
embroidered shoes, the hair long, braided and fastened behind 
with ribbons, a black silk handkerchief around the head, sur- 
mounted by an oval, broad-rimmed hat. The ''best clothes'* of 
both sexes were very gorgeous and expensive, Init cannot be de- 
scribed in detail here. A glimpse of the ordinary dress and 
diversions of the soldiers is afforded by Robinson, at his first 
visit to the San Diego Presidio. lie savs the soldiers w^ere amus- 
ing themselves at the guard-house, ''some seated on the ground 
playing cards and smoking, while others were dancing to the 
music of the guitar. ... At the gate stood a sentinel, with 
slouched hat and blanket thrown over one shoulder, his old Span- 
ish musket resting on the other; his pantaloons were buttoned 
and ornamented at the knee, below which, his legs were pro- 
tected by leggings of dressed deer-skin, secured with spangled 
garters. ' * 

With the coming of the Americans and the setting of the 
tide of business toward New England all these things soon began 
to be affected and, in time, pa,ssed into complete eclipse. Man- 
ners and customs went with the tide, especially after the Mexican 
War, and left only loving memories. It took some time to thaw 
the natural reserve between two peoples who did not under- 
stand each other. This thawing process, marking the period at 
the beginning of which Americans were regarded with distrust, 
if not dislike, and the time when they were received with marked 
favor, may be said to have occurred between 1830 and 1835. At 
the beginning of this period, intermarriages between the two 
races were rare and when they did occur created a sensation ; at 
the end, they were too common to excite comment. In this con- 
nection, and to illustrate what has been stated, the story of Henry 



MARRIAGE OF CAPTAIN FITCH 159 

D. Fitch's eloperaeut and the troubles which it brought upon 
him, is worth telJiug. 

Josefa Oarrillo, eldest daupbt^r of Joat|uiu Carrillo, of San 
Diego, was one of the beautiful women of the place in 182G 
when Captain Fitch first came here, and he soon surrendered to 
her charms. He gave her a written pn)mise of marriage in 1827, 
according to the custom of the country, and the family consented 




MRS. HENBV D. 



to the match, provided the impediments could be removed. The 
first impediment was that Fitch was a foreigner and a Protestant. 
He announced his intention of becoming a Mexican citizen, and 
was baptised by Father Menendez on April 14, 1829, at the- 
chapel in the Presidio, Lieutenant Domingo Carrillo acting as 
godfather. Menendez had promised to marry the couple the fol- 



160 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

lowing day, but at the last moment he weakened. The governor 
had decreed that no foreigners should marry within the territory 
w^ithout his special license, ^nd this could not be secured. 
Domingo Carrillo, uncle of the bride, also refused to serve as a 
witness, and the case looked hopeless. But Menendez w^as a man 
of resources; though not willing to get into trouble himself, he 
was not averse to helping the lovers, and so suggested an elope- 
ment. This was soon arranged and Fitch hastily made ready for 
a voyage. He bade adieu to his friends, including Miss Carrillo, 
and got under way in the Vnlture. But the departure of the 
Captain and the ship was only a blind, and in the darkness of 
night they were hovering close to the shore. Pio Pico, the cousin 
of Seiiorita Carrillo, took her on his saddle and carried her 
swiftly to a spot on the bay shore where a boat was in waiting, 
and soon the lovers were reunited on the deck. All went well, 
and they were married at Valparaiso on the 3rd of July, by the 
Curate Orrego. 

This elopement caused considerable scandal, and, the matter 
having been arranged with some secrecy, various rumors were in 
circulation. One account had it that the lady was forcibly 
abducted. Fitch re-appeared the next year with his wife and 
infant son, and after touching at San Diego proceeded to San 
Pedro where he was arrested by Echeandla's order and sent to 
San Gabriel for trial. Mrs. Fitch w^as at first kept under sur- 
veillance in a private house and later sent also to San Gabriel. 
It was alleged that the marriage was a nullity, and technical 
flaws were picked in the certificate. The couple were repeatedly 
interrogated before the ecclesiastical court, Fitch acting as his 
own attorney, and offering to marry his wife over again. The 
vicar finally decided, in December, that the charges were not 
substantiated; that the marriage, though irregular, was valid; 
and ordered that the wife be given up to the husband. **Yet 
considering the great scandal which Don Enrique has caused in 
this province, I condemn him to give as a penance and reparation 
a bell of at least fifty pounds in weight for the church at Los 
Angeles, which barely has a borrowed one.'' Certain other easy 
penances were provided and poor Menendez 's conduct was the 
subject of an investigation. The troubles of the couple were not 
quite over, for on Jan. 31, 1831, Captain Fitch, writing to his 
friend. Captain Cooper, complained of the conduct of his wife's 
parents, who, he says, abused his wife and would not leave her 
with him. However, although the historian cannot record that 
they did literally ''live happy ever after," it is pleasant to know 
that they had many years of life together and brought up a 
large family. 




.1 




CHAPTER VI 

PROMINENT SPANISH FAMILIES 

HE names and annals of Spanish families, con- 
spicuous in the social, commercial, religious, 
and political life of Old San Diego, will al- 
ways be treasured as an interesting and vital 
part of local history. It would be quite in- 
vidious to attempt to present them in the order 
of their importance. Hence, the alphabetical 
plan is adopted in this arrangement of facte 
obtained from a great variety of sources : 

AGUILAR, Bias, son of Corporal Rosario, born at San Diego, 
1811, outside the Presidio walls. Was majordomo at Temecula 
in 1834. Settled at San Juan Capistrano and was a petitioner 
for land in 1841. Was alcalde there in 1848. Married Antonia 
Guiterrez. 

AGUILAR, Rosario. Corporal of the mission guard at San 
Diego soon after the year 1800. Had a house on site of the pres- 
ent town, in 1821. Majordomo of San Diego Mission, 1838. 
Juez de paz in 1841. Removed to San Juan Capistrano soon 
after and obtained land there. Died there in 1847 leaving 
several children, of whom Bias Aguilar, mentioned above, was 
one. His daughter Rafaela was married to Jose Antonio 
Seri'ano. 

AGUIRRE, Jos6 Antonio. A native of Basque, Spain, born 
about 1793. At the time of the Mexican revolution he^was a 
merchant at Guaymas. Remaining loyal to Spain, he was driven 
out of Mexico and settled in Upper California. Owned brigs 
Leonid^is and Joven Ouipuzoana, and engaged in coast. Island, 
and China trade. On arrival of the Hijar colony at San 
Diego in 1834, gave a ball in Hijar 's honor. It was at this 
ball that certain modem dances are said to have been first 
introduced into California. lie divided his residence between 
San Diego and Santa Barbara, at which latter place he owned 
the finest residence in 1842. In 1843, he was grantee of the 
Tejon rancho. In 1848 and 1849, engaged in trade with Wil- 
liam Heath Davis, and in 1850 he and Davis, with four others, 
founded new San Diego. He was at San Diego April 1, 
1850, and appears in a list of the voters at Old Town. In Sep- 
tember of the latter year he served on the first grand jury 



162 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

in San Diego county under American rule. He married Fran- 
eisca, daughter of Prefect Jose Antonio Estudillo, of San Diego, 
and after her death married her sister, Maria del Rosario 
Estudillo. He was a large man and on that account was some- 
times called ^'Aguirron'* (big Aguirre). He was a fine type of 
the old Spanish merchant and left a large estate to his widow 
and four children. A son, Miguel Aguirre, lives in the neighbor- 
hood of the San Jacinto rancho. A daughter was married to 
Francisco Pico and lives in the same vicinity. His widow 
married Colonel Manuel A. Ferrer, of San Diego. 

ALIPAS, Damasio and Gervasio ; mentioned by Juan Bandini 
as members of the revolutionary junta of fourteen which began 
the revolt against Governor Victoria in November, 1831. A 
third brother, Santos Alipas, was one of the men killed in the 
Pauma massacre, in December, 1846. 

Damasio Alipas married Juana Machado, daughter of Jose 
Manuel Machado, and had three daughters: Ramona, whose 
first husband was William Curley and her second William 
Williams (** Cockney Biir'), and who is still living, in Los 
Angeles; Josef a, who married John Peters, and left San Diego 
in 1854 or 1855; and Maria Arcadia, who became the wife of 
Captain Robert D. Israel and lives in Coronado. Damasio 
Alipas went to Sonora before the Civil War, and was killed 
there. His widow then married Thomas Wrightington. 

ALTAMIRANO, Jos6 Antonio, was the son of Tomas 
Altamirano and Dolores Carrillo, and was born at La Paz, 
Lower California, May 31, 1835. His mother was a sister of 
Joaquin Carrillo, the father of Mrs. Henry D. Fitch; another of 
her brothers was Pedro C. Carrillo, who once owned the San 
Diego (Coronado) peninsula and sold it for $3000. Jose Ant. 
Altamirano came to California in 1849 and was first engaged 
in mining. In 1859 he went into stock raising on a large scale 
near San Jacinto. He owned the Valle de las Palmas rancho, 
near T^ia Juana, in Lower California, which is still in the family, 
and was at one time the owner of the Algodones grant, on the 
Colorado river, near Yuma. In the Mexican War, he served on 
the American side. He lived at Old Town, where he married 
Ysabel de Pedrorena, daughter of Miguel de Pedrorena, and had 
a large family. 

Miguel is unmarried, and lives on Las Flores rancho; Antonio 
is married, and lives at Paris, France, was formerly a San Diego 
councilman; Jose is unmarried, and lives in San Francisco; 
Robert, died at the age of twenty ; Dolores, married, first Harry 
Neale, of San Diego, and had three children, second, Robert 
Burns, of Sacramento; Ysabel, married E. W. Ackerman and 
lives in Old Town; Tula, Victoria, and Mary, unmarried; and 
Maria Antoinette, who died. 



SANTIAGO ARGUELLO 163 

ALVARADO, Francisco Maria. First regidor of San Diego, 
1837. Treasurer, 1840-1. Juez de paz, 1845. Grantee of 
Peiiasquitas rancho in 1823, 1834, and 1836, on which he lived ; 
and grantee of Soledad rancho in 1838. Was an elector at San 
Diego, April 1, 1850. 

ALVARADO, Jiian Bautista. First regidor of San Diego, 
1835 ; comisario de poUcia, 1836. Daughter Maria Antonia was 
married to Captain Joseph F. Snook. 

ARGUELLO, Jose Ramon, son of Santiago Argiiello. Second 
alcalde (juez de paz) in 1845. Davis related that on a trip into 
Lower California with Don Ramon as guide, he found that gen- 
tleman addicted to eating rattlesnakes. 

ARGUELLO, Santiago. Son of Jose D. Argiiello, bom at 
Monterey 1791. Paymaster at San Diego in 1818, and in 1821 
had a garden in Mission Valley. His i)art in the Bouchard 
invasion has been related. In 1827-31 he was lieutenant of the 
San Diego Company, and commandant from 1830 to 1835. 
From 1831-5 was captain of the company and took part in the 
revolt against Victoria. In 1833-4 he was revenue officer at 
San Diego. In 1836 he was alcalde, and held several other 
offices. During the IMexican war he was friendlv to the Ameri- 
cans and gave them considerable aid. Soldiers were quartered 
at his house and he held a commission as captain in the Cal- 
ifornia battalion. Was a member of the Legislative council in 
1847 and made collector of the port. 

In 1829 he was granted the Tia Juana rancho, in 1841 the 
Trabujo, and in 1846 the San Diego Mission lands. He 
married Pilar Ortega, daughter of Francisco Ortega, of Santa 
Barbara, by whom he had 22 children. Among the children who 
lived and had issue were: Francisco, Ignacio, Jose Antonio, 
Jose Ramon, Santiago E, Refugio who was married to Juan 
Bandini, Teresa who was married to Jose M. Bandini, Maria 
Louisa, who was married to A. V. Zamorano, and Concepcion, 
wife of Agustin Olvera. 

He died on his Tia Juana ranch in 1862, and his widow in 
1878. The ranch is still owned by the family. Davis takes pains 
to state that his sons were finely-formed, well proportioned men. 
He was a man of abilitv and left an honorable record. His 
disposition was somewhat reser\^ed and he was not universally 
personally popular. 

ARGUELLO, Santiago E. Son of Santiago, was bom August 
18, 1813. Collector of revenue at San Diego, 1833-4. Took 
part against Alvarado in 1836-7. Deputy in assembly and juez 
de paz in 1845-6. Aided the Americans in Mexican War and 
had a claim for $11,548 for damages to his property. Was in 
charge of the Otay and San Antonio Abad ranchos in 1836-7, 
and majordomo and landowner at San Juan Capistrano in 1841. 




164 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

He was an elector at Old San Diego, April 1, 1850. He married 
Guadalupe Estudillo, daughter of Jos6 Antonio Estudillo. He 
died at the Rancho de la Punta, October 20, 1857, and left two 
sons and a number of daughters. One daughter, Maria Antonia, 
was married to A. H. Wilcox and another, Refugia, to William 
B. Couts. One son, Francisco, lives at Tia Juana and has a 
family. 

BANDINI, Juan. Any sketch of this interesting figure in 
the early life of San Diego must necessarily fail to do him entire 
justice. For nearly forty years he was an honored citizen of 
California, saw it pass from Spanish into Mexican hands, and 
lived to take a prominent part in wresting it from the control of 
the Californians and making it an American State. Through all 
the intervening days of struggle, he took an important part, and 
narrowly missed the highest political honors of his time. Esti- 
mates of his character and services varv somewhat and have been 
influenced by the financial misfortunes which pursued him. But 
it seems clear that his long residence and eminent public services 
in San Diego entitled him to be considered the first Spanish 
citizen of his day. 

The name of Bandini is not originally Spanish, but Italian, 
the family originating in Italy and there being a family of 
Bandinis of princely rank now^ in existence in Italy. 

He was the son of Jose Bandini, who was a native of Anda- 
lusia. He w^as born at Lima in 1800, and received his education 
there. His father came to California as master of a Spanish 
trading vessel in 1819 and 1821, and it is possible Juan was with 
him. The father took an active part in the Mexican revolution 
and was made a captain. Soon after peace came, the father and 
son came to San Diego and built a house. His public services 
began in 1827-8 as a member of the assembly, and from 1828 to 
'31 he was sub-comisario of revenues. His house at San Diego, 
which is still standing in a good state of preservation, was 
erected in 1829. In 1830 he was chosen substitute congressman. 
In 1831 he took a leading part in the revolt against Governor 
Victoria, as related elsewhere. In 1832, he was appointed comi- 
sario principal ad interim ^ but Victoria refused to recognize his 
authority outside San Diego, and he soon resigned. In 1833 he 
went to Mexico as congressman and returned the following year 
as Vice-President of the llijar colonization company and in- 
spector of customs for California. His elaborate entertainment 
of Hijar has been alluded to. The colonization scheme was a 
failure, however. The California officials also refused to rec- 
ognize his authority over the customs and brought a counter 
charge of smuggling which they succeeded in substantiating, 
technically, at least. These failures of his hopes were a severe 
blow to Bandini, from which he never fully recovered. In 



JUAN BANDINI 165 

1836-7-8 he was the leading spirit in the opposition to Governor 
Alvarado, and on one occasion, at least, had the satisfaction of a 
great public reception when the whole poi)ulation of San Diego 
turned out to meet him on his return from the capture of Los 
Angeles, in 1837. His return at this time was due to Indian 
troubles. He was the owner of the Tecate rancho on the Mexican 
border, which was pillaged by the hostiles and the family re- 
duced to want. But peace having been made, Alvarado made 
him administrator of the San Gabriel Mission, and he was also 
granted the Jurupa, Rincon, and Cajou de Muscapiabe ranchos, 
besides land at San Juan Capistrano. He held other offices, but 
continued to oppose Alvarado and was present with troops at 
the battle of Las Flores, in 1838. On Christmas night, 1838, 
while the Pastorela was being performed at his house, all the 
prominent citizens of San Diego being present, the house was 
surrounded by General Castro, acting under Alvarado 's orders, 
and the two Picos and Juan Ortega taken prisoners. Bandini 
was absent at this time, and thus escaped arrest. 

In 1845-6 he was Governor Pico's secretary and supported his 
administration. After the ^lexican War began, however, he 
adhered to the American cause and Hindered valuable services. 
He furnished supplies for the troops, and did everything in his 
power to aid them. 

In 1847 he was a mem})er of the legislative council, and in 
1848, alcalde. On April 1, 1850, he appears as an elector at 
San Diego, and was elected treasurer, but declined to serve. In 
this year he was keeping a store at San Diego, and also erected a 
large building for a hotel, the Gila House, which is said to have 
cost $25,000. Soon after this he removed to a rancho which had 
been granted him in Mexico and resumed his Mexican citizenship. 
Here he took some part in politics, and was a supporter of 
Melendres, and had to quit the country with his belongings, in 
1855. He died at Los Angeles, whither he had gone for treat- 
ment, in November, 1859. 

His first wife was Dolores, daughter of Captain Jose M. 
Estudillo, and their children were: Arcadia, who married Abel 
Stearns and afterward Colonel Robert L. Baker. She lives at 
Santa Monica and Los Angeles. Ysidora, who was born Septem- 
ber 23, 1829, was married to Cave J. Couts, died May 24, 1897, 
and is buried at San Diego. Josefa, who was married to Pedro 
C. Carrillo, who was alcalde and a mem})er of California's first 
legislature in 1847. Jose Maria, who married Teresa, daughter 
of Santiago Argiiello ; and Juanito. His second wife was Refugia, 
daughter of Santiago Argiiello (a sister of his son Jose Maria's 
wife). They had: Juan de la Cruz, Alfredo, Arturo, and two 
daughters, one of whom, Dolores, was married to Charles R. 
Johnson, and the other, Victoria (Chata), to Dr. James B. Win- 



166 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

ston and lives in Los Angeles. Bandini's daughters were famous 
for their beauty. All his family are in comfortable circumstances, 
and several are wealthy. They live principally in Southern Cal- 
ifornia, have married well, and are much respected citizens. 

Perhaps the story of Bandini's personal appearance and char- 
acteristics can best be told by a few extracts from writers who 
knew him. Dana, whose opinion of Californians was intelligent, 
if not always sympathetic, saw him on a voyage from Monterey 
to Santa Barbara in January, 1836, and writes thus : 

Among our passengers was a young man who was the best 
representation of a decayed gentleman I had ever seen. He 
was of the aristocracy of the country, his family being of pure 
Spanish blood, and once of great importance in Mexico. His 
father had been governor of the province [this is an error] and 
having amassed a large property settled at San Diego. His 
son was sent to Mexico where he received the best education, 
and went into the first society of the capital. Misfortune, 
extravagance, and the want of funds soon ate the estate up, 
and Don Juan Bandini returned from Mexico accomplished, 
poor, and proud, and without any office or occupation, to lead 
the life of most young men of the better families — dissolute 
and extravagant when the means were at hand. He had a 
slight and elegant figure, moved gracefully, danced and waltzed 
beautifully, spoke the best of Castilian, with a pleasant and re- 
fined voice and accent, and had throughout the bearing of a 
man of high birth and figure. 

Upon the arrival at Santa Barbara, Bandini danced at the wed- 
ding of Alfred Robinson and Seiiorita de la Guerra y Noriega, 
concerning which Dana says : * * A great deal has been said about 
our friend Don Juan Bandini ; and when he did appear, which 
was toward the close of the evening, he certainly gave us the most 
graceful dancing that I had ever seen. He was dressed in white 
pantaloons, neatly made, a short .i^cket of dark silk gaily figured, 
white stockings and thin morocco slippers upon his verv small 
feet.'' 

Lieutenant Derby was well acquainted with the name and fame 
of Don Juan, and in his first letter from San Diego, in 1853, he 
pauses in his fooling long enough to write: **San Diego is the 
residence of Don Juan Bandini, whose mansion fronts on one side 
of the plaza. He is well known to the early settlers of California 
as a gentleman of distinguished politeness and hospitality. His 
wife and daughters are among the most beautiful and accom- 
plished ladies of our State.'' 

Davis bears testimony to Bandini's worth. *' He was," he says, 
**a man of decided ability and fine character." 

Bancroft admits that he was one of the most prominent men 
of his time in California, of fair abilities and education, a charm- 
ing public speaker, a fluent writer, and personally much beloved. 



THE CARRILLO FAMILY 167 

He thinks, however, that in the larger fields of statesmanship he 
fell somewhat short — an estimate which is one of the penalties 
paid by those who, whatever their ability or deserts, fail of the 
largest success. 

There is also contemporary testimony to the fact that Don 
Juan possessed a gift of sardonic humor and was somewhat 
given to sarcasm. 

CARRILLO, Domingo Antonio Ignacio, son of Jose Rai- 
mundo Carrillo. Bom at San Diego, 1791. Gentleman soldier 
in the San Diego company from 1807, cadet from 1809, etc. 
Left service in 1818, but afterward restored and at San Diego 
in 1821. Was revenue collector, 1825-8, promoted to lieuten- 
ant, 1827. Transferred to Santa Barbara in 1830, and later 
in political troubles. Married Concepcion Pico, sister of Pio 
and Andres Pico, in 1810. Their sons were Joaquin, Jose 
Antonio, Francisco, Alejandro, and Felipe. Daughters: Maria, 
wife of Jose M. Covarrubias; Angela, wife of Ignacio del Valle; 
and Antonia. 

CARRILLO, Jose Antonio Ezequiel. Son of Jose Raimundo, 
and brother of Domingo Antonio Ignacio, above. Born at San 
Francisco in 1796. Was a teacher at San Diego in 1818 and 
afterward. At Los Angeles, 1827-31. Having been exiled by 
Victoria, became a loader in movement against the governor at 
San Diego in 1831. Was deeply implicated in trouble of the 
time at Santa Barbara, where he lived, and where he died in 
1862. His first wife was Estefana Pico, and his second Jacinta 
Pico, both sisters of Pio and Andres Pico, of San Diego. A 
daughter was married to Lewis T. Burton. Don Jose Antonio 
was a man of natural ability, but was dissipated. 

CARRILLO, Jose Raimundo. Founder of the Carrillo family 
in California. A native of Loreto, bom in 1749. Son of Hilario 
Carrillo. Came to California as a soldier, probably with the first 
expedition in 1769, and rose to rank of captain. Was command- 
ant at San Diego, 1807-9. He married Tomasa Ignacia, daugh- 
ter of the soldier Francisco Lugo, the ceremony being |y^r- 
formed by Junipero Serra at San Carlos, on April 23. 1781. 
His early services in California were at Santa Barbara and Mon 
terey, coming to San Diego in 1806. He was buried in the 
chapel on Presidio Hill, on November 10, 1809. His only 
daughter, Maria Antonia, became the wife of Jose de la Guerra 
y Noriega. His sons, Carlos Antonio de Jesus, Jose Antonio 
Ezequiel, Anastasio, and Domingo Antonio Ignacio, were all 
prominent in the early history of California. 

CARRILLO, Joaquin. Native of Lower California and a rel- 
ative (probably a cousin) of Jose Raimundo. Was living as a 
retired soldier at San Diego in 1827. He is said to have been 
a good performer on the violin, and was once put in the stocks 



168 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

by Capt. Ruiz because the latter thought him too slow in tuQ- 
ing up to play his favorite tune. He died before 1840. His 
widow was Maria Ignaeia Lopez, and their sons were Joaquin, 
Julio, and Jose Ramon. The daughters, Josefa, whose elope- 
ment with Henry D. Fitch has been narrated; Francisca 
Benicia, wife of M. G. Vallejo; Maria de la Luz, w^fe of Sal- 
vador Vallejo; Ramona, wife of Romualdo Pacheco and later 
of John Wilson, who lived in San Francisco; Mabel Pacheco, 
who was married to Will. Tevis; Juana; and Felecidad, wife 
of Victor Castro. 

DO.MINGUEZ, Cristobal. Soldier at San Diego before 1800. 
Died in 1825. Rose to rank of sergeant, and was grantee of 
San Pedro ranch in 1822. His wife was Maria de los Reyes 
Ibaiies, at whose house Alfred Robinson resided while in San 
Diego, in 1829, and to whom he refers as *^>ld lady Dominguez.*' 
Part of the American troops were quartered at her house in the 
Mexican War. Their children were !Maria Victoria, who was 
married to Jose Antonio Estudillo; Luis Gonzaga; Manuel, who 
is mentioned by Robinson as Gale's brother-in-law at San Diego 
in 1829; ^laria Francisca Marcelina, who was married to Wil- 
liam A. Gale and went to Boston to live; Maria Elena Ramona; 
Jose Xasario; and Pedro Juan Agapito. 

ECHEAXDIA, Jose ^laria. Quite a little has been said 
about this, the only governor of California who made his res- 
idence in San Diego. A few more personal details will be given 
at this place. 

Before coming to California, he was a Lieutenant-Colonel 
connected with a college of engineers in ^lexico. Besides Rob- 
inson's statement that he was ''a tall, gaunt personage,'* who 
received him 'Svith true Si)ani8h dignity and politeness," we 
learn from Bancroft that he was ''tall, slight and weU 
formed, with fair complexion, hair not quite black, scanty beard 
. . . and a pleasing face and expression. His health was 
very delicate. In his speech he affected the Castilian pronun- 
ciation, noticeably in giving the Ml,' 'c' and *z' their proper 
sounds." He was somewhat absent-minded at times. Some of 
his contemporaries regarded him as a capricious despot, who 
would carry out a whim without regard to results; others 
thought he lacked energy ; and still others say he was popular, 
but overindulgent and careless. Pio Pico found him affable, 
but apathetic. Alfred Robinson, the son-in-law of Captain de la 
Guerra y Noriega, who strongly opposed Echeandia in the mat- 
ter of the secularization of the missions, calls him '*the scourge 
of California, and instigator of vice, who sowed seeds of dis- 
honor not to be extirpated while a mission remains to be 
robbed." Wm. A. Gale found him a man of undecided char- 
acter, trying to please everybody. 



THE ESTUDILLOS 169 

After leaving California he was very poor until 1835, when, 
an earthquake havings damaged a number of buildings, his ser- 
vices as engineer were in demand and he became prosperous. 
In 1855 he was arrested by Santa Ana for some political cause, 
but released. Two step-daughters took care of him in his old 
age, and he died before 1871. 

ESTUDILLO, Jose Antonio. Son of Jose Maria, born at Mon- 
terey, 1805. Grantee of house-lot at San Diego, 1827. In 1828-30 
was revenue collector and treasurer. Grantee of Otay rancho, in 
1829. Member of the assembly in 1833-5. Received a grant of the 
Teraecula rancho in 1835. In 1836-8 alcalde and juez. Admin- 
isirador and majordomo at San Luis Rey in 1840-3 and owner of 
land at San Juan Capistrano in 1841. Treasurer in 1840. Jtiez 
de paz in 1845-6. Collector in 1845. Neutral in Mexican War. 
First county assessor, 1850. lie died in 1852. lie was a man of 
excellent character and large influence. His wife was ^laria 
Victoria, daughter of Sergeant Cristobal and Maria de los Reyes 
Dominguez, whom he married in 1825. Their children were: 
Jose Maria, who mai'ried a daughter, Luz, of Juan ^laria ]\lar- 
ron; Salvador, married Piedad Altiimirano, sister of Jose Ant.; 
Jose Guadalupe; Jose Antonio, who is a rancher at San Jacinto; 
and Francisco, who lives at San Jacinto. He married first, Car- 
men Roubidoux, daughter of the celebrated trapper; second, a 
daughter of Don Jesus ^Machado. They had two daughters, both 
of whom were married to Jose Antonio Aguirre; Francis(*a being 
his first wife, and Maria del Rosaria his second, and afterward 
marrying Col. Manuel A. Ferrer. Another daughter, Maria Anto- 
nia, was married to Miguel de Pedrorena, and another, Concep- 
cion, was the first wife of George A. Pendleton. 

ESTUDILLO, Jose Guadalupe. Son of Jose Antonio, one 
of the most prominent citizens of San Diego in earlier Amer- 
ican days. County Treasurer from 1864 to 1875. City Coun- 
cilman of San Diego. Treasurer of the State one term. Cash- 
ier of the Consolidated Bank, etc. lie now lives in Los Aiig(»les. 
He married Adelaide Mulholland. 

ESTUDILLO, Jose Maria, Tiieutenant of the Monten^y Com- 
pany in 1806-27, and captain of the San Diego (^om[)any from 
1827 till his death in 1830. He may be said to have l)een the 
founder of the Estudillo family in California. His wife was 
Gertrudis Horcasitas. Jose Antonio, mentioned above, was the 
best known of his children. He also had Jose Joacpiin, who lived 
on the San Leandro rancho, near San Francisco bay, whose three 
daughters all married Americans — Maria de Jesus becoming the 
wife of Wra. Heath Davis. He also had a daughter, Magdalena, 
who was grantee of part of the Otay ranch 1820, and a daugh- 
ter who married Lieutenant flannel Gomez. 




170 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

GUERRA y NORIEGA, Jose Antonio de la. Native of Spain, 
born March 6, 1779. Became lieutenant of the Monterey 
Company and came to California 1801. Here he married, in 
1804, Maria Antonia, daughter of Captain Jose Raimundo Car- 
rillo. In 1806 came to San Diego, and was acting commandant 
for a short time in 1806-7. Had difficulty with Capt. Ruiz. 
Acted as agent for sale of his uncle's goods, shipped from Mex- 
ico, in 1808, and profited largely. After 1817, resided at Santa 
Barbara, where he was commandant and took a prominent part 
in public affairs. He was congressman from California in 1827, 
and the following year named by Echeandia in a list of those 
Avho had taken the oath of allegiance. Candidate for position 
of political chief, in 1837. In Mexican War w-as unfriendly to 
U. S. but remained quiet. Died in 1858. 

Of his daughters, Maria de las Angustias, bom 1815, was 
married to Manuel Jimeno Casarin, and later to Dr. J. D. Ord. 
Her first marriage is described by Robinson in his Life in Cali- 
fornia, page 142. Ana Maria, born 1820, was married to Alfred 
Robinson, and died in 1855. Maria Antonia, born 1827, mar- 
ried Cesario Lataillade, and later Caspar Orena. He had at 
least seven sons; Antonio Maria, born 1825, never married; 
Francisco, born 1818, died in 1878; Joaquin, born 1822, died 
before 1870 ; Jose Antonio, born 1805 ; Juan J., born 1810, died 
unmarried; Miguel, born 1823; Pablo, born 1819. 

Captain de la Guerra y Noriega left a large estate, which Ban- 
croft says his sons dissipated. He was a man of very great influ- 
ence to the day of his death. His opinions on California polit- 
ical affairs strongly color the views expressed in the book of 
his son-in-law, Alfred Robinson. 

LOPEZ, Bonifacio. Son of Ignacio. Juez de campo at San 
Diego, 1835. In charge of the Mission, 1848. Grand juror, Sep- 
tember, 1850. His daughter, Josefa, married Philip Crosthwaite. 

LOPEZ, Ignacio. Soldier, living in Mission Valley, 1821. 
Father of Bonifacio and probably othei-s. First district elector 
of San Diego, 1822, and elected to legislature. Took part in 
revolution of 1881. Jose and Juan Lopez, involved in same, 
probably his sons. Juez de campo, 1836. 

LORENZANA, Apolinaria. Was one of the foundling chil- 
dren sent to California from Mexico in 1800, and lived in San 
Diego. The name, Lorenzana, was that of the archbishop of 
Mexico, given to all foundlings. She never married, but was 
very charitable and knowTi as La Beata [the sister of charity]. 
She claimed the Jamacha rancho, but lost it. She was in San 
Luis Rey in 1821-30, and later assisted Father Vicente at the 
San Diego Mission. In later life she lived at Santa Barbara, 
was poor and blind and supported by charity. She dictated for 
Bancroft her memoirs. 



A ROLLICKING PRIEST 171 

MACHADO, Jose Manuel. Corporal of the San Diego Com- 
pany. Had quite a family of children, among them daughters — 
Guadalupe, whose first husband was Peter Wilder, and her sec- 
ond Albert B. Smith; and Juana, who was first married to 
Damasio Alipas and second to Thomas Wrightington ; Rosa, who 
was the wife of John C. Stewart; and Antonia, who was mar- 
ried to Enos A. Wall. 

MARRON, Juan Maria. Had a house at San Diego, 1821. 
Took part in revolution of 1831. Second regidor 1835; first 
regidor 1836, and owner of the Cueros de Venado rancho, which 
was attacked bv Indians. Juez, 1839-40-44. Owner of land at 
San Juan Capistrano, 1841. Grantee of the Agua Hediona 
Rancho, 1842. Died, September 19, 1853. Married Felipa, 
daughter of Juan Maria Osuna and Juliana Lopez. Daughter, 
Maria Luz, married Jose Maria Estudillo. Had a son, Sylvester. 

MARROX, Sylvester. Son of Juan INIaria and Felipa Osuna 
Marron, married Leonora Osuna. They had children : Felipa, 
who was married to J. Chauncey Hayes, now of Oceanside ; and 
another daughter became the wife of John S. Barker. He mar- 
ried a second time, and lives at Buena Vista, Cal. 

MENENDEZ, Father Antonio. Was a Dominican friar who 
came from Mexico with Echeandia in 1825 and was chaplain 
and cure at the Presidio until 1829 at an irregular salary of 
$15 a month. His part in the Fitch-Carrillo elopement has been 
related. In December, 1828, his name appears in a list of Span- 
iards who had taken the oath of allegiance. From August to 
December of this year he taught a school in San Diego, had 18 
pupils enrolled, and was paid the same munificent salary. He 
was chaplain of the assembly which met at Santa Barbara 
from Julv to Oct^>ber, 1830. 

His character seems to put him in the class with the 
coarser Mexican priests who followed the Spanish mis- 
sionaries. In fact he illustrated the old saying of *'the world, 
the flesh, and the devil,'' in an unusual degree. ''Men's souls 
for heaven," says Bancroft, **but women for himself he loved, 
and wine and cards." Pio Pico, who was then a young man 
engaged in trading with Lower California, played cards with 
him, with var^'ing fortune. On one occasion in San Diego, after 
Menendez had, in a game of cards, despoiled Pico of all his 
stock of sugar, he added insult to injury by hurling at him a 
couplet which may be translated: 

''Christ came to ransom man of woman born ; 
He sought his sheep, himself departed shorn." 

OSUNA, Juan Maria. Bom in California before 1800. A 
soldier and corporal of the San Diego Company, and later a set- 
tler. District elector in 1830, and took part in revolution of 



172 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

1831. Was the first alcalde of Saii Diego, 1835, juez de paz in 
1839-40 and 1846. Grantee of San Diegnito in 1836-45. Died 
about 1847. Daughter Felipe married to Juan Maria Marron. 
Had sons Leandro and Ramon. 

OSUXA, Leandro. Son of Juan Maria ; took part in fight at 
San Pasqual, December, 1846. He committed suicide by shoot- 
ing himself through heart, April 3, 1859. His son Julio married 
Chipita Crosthwaite. 

OSUNA, Ramon. Comisario do polivia, 1839. Collector of 
tithes, 1839. Grantee of Valle de los Viejas, 1846. Member of 
first grand jury at San Diego, September, 1850. 

PEDROREXA, IMiguel de. The best biographical sketch of 
this nuich respected citizen is that contained in Wm. Heath 
Davis's ^ixty IVrtr.s in Cidifornia. lie says: 

In 1838 Don Miguel de Ptdroiena, a resident of Peru, ar- 
rived here, being at the time part owner and supercargo of 
tlie Dehuira. . . . Don Miguel was a native of Spain, and 
belonged to one of the best families of Madrid. After receiv- 
ing an education in his own country he was sent to London, 
where he was educated in English, becoming a com])lete schol- 
ar. Most of the Castilian race of the u[)per class are proud 
and aristocratic; but Don Miguel, though of high birth, was 
exceedingly affable, polite, gracious in manner and bearing, 
and, in every respect, a true gentleman, lie married a daugh- 
ter of prefect Estudillo, and resided in San Diego until the 
time of his death in 1850, leaving one son, Miguel, and two 
daughters, Elena and Ysabd. He was a member of the con- 
vention at Montcrev in 1849, for the formation of the state 
constitution. He owned the Cajon Rancho and the San Jacinto 
Xuevo Rancho, each containing eleven leagues, wMth some cat- 
tle and horses. Notwithstanding these large holdings of lands 
he was in rather straitened circumstances in his later years, 
and so much in need of money that when T visited San Diego in 
the early ])art of ISoO he offered to sell me thirty-two quarter- 
blocks (102 lots) in San Diego at a low^ figure. He had ac- 
quired the ]>roperty in the winter of 1849-r)0, at the alcalde's 
sale. I did not care for the land but being flush, and having 
n large income from my business. ] took the land, paying 
him thirteen or fourteen hundred dollars for it. 

In Madrid he had several brothers and other relatives, one 
of his brothers being at that time a Minister in the cabinet of 
the reigning monarch. During the last two or three years of his 
life those relatives became aware of his unfortunate circum- 
stances and wrote to him repeatedly, urging him to come home 
to Spain and bring his family with him. They sent him means 
and assured him that he w^ould be welcomed. Though poor, 
his ]»roud dis|)Osition led him to decline all these offers. Popu- 
lar with everybody in the de|>artment, the recollections of him 
by those who knew him were exceedingly pleasant. 

He settled at San Diego in 1845, having married Maria Anto- 
nia Estudillo, daughter of Jose Antonio Estudillo. He strongly 



THE PICOS, FATHER AND SONS 173 

favored the American side in the war of 1846, and had a cav- 
alry command with the rank of captain. He built one of the 
first frame houses in Old Town, which is still standing near the 
parsonage. In the late 60 's it was used as the office of the Union. 
He was collector of customs in 1847-8. In 1850, with Wm. Heath 
Davis and others he was one of the founders of new San Diego. 
He died March 21, 1850. His only son was Miguel de Pedro- 
rena, born at Old Town in 1844, and died at his ranch 'in Jamul 
Valley, December 25, 1882. He married Nellie Burton, daugh- 
ter of General H. S. Burton of the U. S. Armv, at the Horton 
House in New San Diego, Dec. 25, 1875. His sister Ysabel was 
married to Jose Antonio Altamirano. She was born at the verv 
moment when the American flag was raised at Old Town (July 
29, 1846), a circumstance of which the family is very proud. 
Victoria was married to Henry Magee, an army officer from the 
state of New York, of excellent family. Elena married Jose 
Wolfskin and lives at Los Angeles. 

PICO, Andres. Son of Jose Maria, born at San Diego, 1810. 
In 1836-8, was elector and receptor of customs, and in charge of 
Jamul rancho. Took an active part in the uprisings against the 
Monterey government and was several times a prisoner. In 
1839-42 was lieutenant of the San Diego Company, served as 
elector, was in charge of San Luis Rey, and obtained lands at 
Santa Margarita, San Juan Capistrano, and Temecula. Was in 
command at the battle of San Pasqual and in subsequent oper- 
ations. Made treaty with Fremont at Cahuenga which ended 
the war. Did not return to San Diego, but engaged in mining 
and land litigation. Represented the counties of Los Angeles, 
San Bernardino, and San Diego in the State Senate, in 1860-1. 
Was a Democratic presidential elector from California, 1852. 
He never married. He was a brave and popular man, but coarse 
and unscrupulous. Died in 1876. 

PICO, Jose Antonio Bernardo. Son of Jos6 Maria. Born at 
San Diego about 1794. Member of the San Diego Company, 
and clerk in 1817. Sergeant, 1828, lieutenant, 1834, and com- 
missioner to secularize San Juan Capistrano, 1834-6. Went to 
Monterey, 1838. Grantee of Agua Caliente Rancho in 1840 and 
left the military service. Grantee of San Luis Rey, 1846. Mar- 
ried Soledad Ybarra, 1828 ; died at San Diego, 1871. He was a 
lively old man, full of jokes, and nicknamed Picito [Little Pico] 
by reason of his small stature. Wilkes ridicules him in his ac- 
count, 1841. He was a soldier in the Mexican War and second 
in command under his brother Andres, during the operations 
around San Diego. 

PICO, Jose Maria. Founder of the Pico family of Southern 
California. Son of Santiago Pico of Sinaloa. Soldier of the 
San Diego Company from 1782, also at San Luis Rey. Died at 



174 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

San Gabriel in 1819. His wife was Maria Estaquia Lopez, a 
native of Sonora, whom he married in 1789. Their three sons 
were Andres, Jose Antonio Bernardo, and Pio. They had seven 
daughters: Concepeion, who was married to Domingo A. I. Car- 
rillo; Estefana and Jacinta, who were married to Jose A. E. 
Carrillo, the brother of Domingo; Ysadora, who became the 
wife of John Forster; Toniasa, who married an Alvarado; and 
Feliciana. 

PICO, Pio. As a resident of San Diego who became gov- 
ernor, Pio Pico is a figure of much interest. He was bom at 
San Gabriel in 1801, and removed to San Diego after his father's 
death, in 1819. He kept a small shop there. Gambled with 
Father Menendez with varying fortune; lost all he had at San 
Vicente, Lower California, and later won twelve mules and 
stripped the padre, at San Diego. Built a house at old San 
Diego in 1824. Once on going to Los Angeles for a visit, he 
was ordered by Alcalde Avila, described as an ignorant fellow 
who ruled by the sword, to go to work on an aqueduct; but 
being on horseback and armed with a musket, he escaped and 
returned to San Diego. In 1821 he put up a hide hut at Los 
Angeles and opened a dram shop, the price of a drink being 
** two-bits." Introduced the use of an ox-horn to drink from, 
with a false wooden bottom to reduce the quantity of liquor. 

Mrs. Carson once met him going to the races ; he had his mule 
panniers loaded down with silver which he was taking to bet 
on the horse. 

Was clerk in a trial at San Diego, 1826. Senior vocal of assem- 
bly, 1832, and chosen political chief after expulsion of Victoria 
same year, but only acted twenty days. Majordomo San Luis 
Rey Mission, 1834. Candidate for alcalde, December, 1834, but 
defeated. Elector, 1836. 1837-9, active against Alvarado 's 
government and more than once a prisoner. Played an active 
and not always creditable part in troubles of this time. Became 
governor in 1845, and was the last Mexican governor. 

In 1841, grantee of Santa Margarita and Las Flores. Ranchos. 
Conveyed the former to his brother-in-law, John Forster, and 
there was a noted contest for it in later vears in the courts, but 
Forster won and retained the valuable propery. He married 
Maria Ignacia Alvarado in 1834. He spent his later years in 
Los Angeles and wrote quite a little concerning California his- 
torv\ His character has been variously estimated and he has been 
much abused for various causes. It is not possible to discuss 
these matters here. He seems to have been a man of little edu- 
cation and only moderate intelligence: fairly honest but with- 
out any gifts of statesmanship which would have cjualified him 
for important achievements in the difficult times in which he 
lived. Nearly all the magazines have contained, at various times. 



FATHER UBACH 175 

** write-ups'' of the Pico family, and attacks or defenses of his 
administration. 

ROCHA, Juan Jose.^ Mexican lieutenant who came with 
Echeandia in 1825, under sentence of banishment from Mexico 
for two years. Held different commands, at Monterey and else- 
where. Gave a ball in honor of the Hijar colony, 1834. Mar- 
ried Elena Dominguez. Spent his last years in San Diego. 
Father of Manuel Rocha, who was a member of the first grand 
jur>' at San Diego, in September, 1850. 

RUIZ, Francisco Maria. Native of Lower California. At 
Santa Barbara from 1795, and from 1806 commandant at San 
Diego. Made captain in 1820 and retired in 1827. Grantee of 
the Penasquitas Rancho, and died in 1839, at age of about 85. 
Never married. 

He was the son of Juan Maria Ruiz and Isabel Carrillo, both 
of distinguished families. His father was killed by a lion. His 
brother, Jose Manuel, was governor of Lower California. He 
was a man of violent temper and quarrelsome disposition, and 
had serious difficulty with his relative, Captain de la Guerra y 
Noriega, whom he knocked down. He was also somewhat dis- 
sipated. He seems to have been well liked locally, notwithstand- 
ing his many faults. 

SERRANO, Jose Antonio, son of Leandro Serrano. Married 
Rafaela, daughter of Rosario Aguilar. Their children were: 
Jesus, who is about seventy-five years of age and lives at Ven- 
tura; Luis, born March 12, 1846. married Serafina Stewart, 
daughter of John C. Stew^art, and lives in San Diego; Rosa, 
who was married to Andrew Cassidy; and Adelaide, who was the 
first wife of Sam Ames, of Old Town. 

Jose Antonio Serrano was a horse and cattle man. He served 
under Pico in the Mexican War, and was engaged at the battle 
of San Pasqual. 

UBACH, Father Antonio D. Native of Catalonia. Edu- 
cated for a missionary priest at Cape Girardeau, Missouri, and 
had traveled thousands of miles as a missionary among the Indi- 
ans. He came to San Diego in 1866, and had been in charge 
of the Catholic parish here ever since. Had a dispensation 
which allowed him to wear a beard. He had Moorish blood in 
his veins. He brought the first organ to San Diego. In early 
days after the morning services were over, he would bring out 
a football which he brought with him here, and play with the 
boys on the plaza. He had the dagger of the celebrated bandit, 
Joaquin Murietta. He had also had charge of a large number 
of valuable relics of early Spanish days, including vestments, 
books of record, etc., from the old mission. 

He was the **Father Gaspara'' of Mrs. Jackson's Bamonay 
a circumstance which gave him wide fame and made him an 



176 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

object of extraordinary interest to all strangers. For many 
years he refused to discuss the truth of the incidents of the 
story, but in the San Diego Union of June 25, 1905, he spoke 
of the marriage of Ramona as follows! 

*' Although it took place forty years ago, I remember it very 
well — how the couple came to me and asked me to marry them 
and how I was impressed with them. But it w^as not in the 
long adobe building which everybody points out as the place 
— that is the Estudillo place — but it took place in the little 
church which stands not far away, near the old cemetery where 
the old mission bells are. Why, I would not marry them out- 
side of the church ; Catholics know that. Mrs. Jackson herself 
says that the wedding took place in the chapel, and I can't 
imagine why the other building is the one that is usually 
pointed out. 

**Do I know who Alessandro iand Ramona were? Yes, but 
those were not their real names. I know w^hat their right 
names were, but I do not care to tell. Mrs. Jackson suppressed 
them because she did not care to subject the families to the 
notoriety that they would be sure to get from the publication 
of the book. They were native families who lived in the coun- 
try, and I was well acquainted with them. I have never men- 
tioned their names to anyone and of course I don't want to 
do so now." 

In 1874 he laid out the ])resent Catholic cemetery on the hill 
back of old San Diego. In 1878-80, he went home and visited 
his people in Catalonia. A large part of his work here has 
been among the Indians, with whom he has had great influ- 
ence. The corner stone of the unfinished church at Old Town 
was laid in July, 1869, but he was destined to be unable to 
finish it. Three years later, a movement for a new building in 
new San Diego was commenced, and in 1875 he had the satis- 
faction of occupying a comfortable building on what was then 
mesa lands west of the new town. The present brick church 
was completed and occupied in 1894. 

Father Ubach died at St. Joseph's Hospital on the afternoon 
of Saturday, March 27, 1907. Tie had been in failing health 
for several months, Imt insisted upon pursuing his accustomed 
tasks until he could no longer appear in public. His death, 
though not unexpected, impressed the community profoundly. 
It was the sundering of the last link which connected the new 
day with the olden time, for Father I-baeh was in truth '*the 
last of the padres." His funeral, which occurred in his 
church on the forenoon of Wednesday, April 2d, was exceed- 
ingly im])ressive. Bishop Conaty conducted the elaborate cer- 
emonies and pronounced the eulogy. The church was filled to 
overflowing, while thousands of mourners remained outside the 



ZAMORANO 177 

building. Among the mass of tioral emblems nothing was more 
touching than the wild flowers sent by the Indians from the 
mountains. The historic priest sleeps in the Catholic cemetery 
on the mesa, which overlooks the scene of his labors. 

ZAMORANO, Augustin Vicente. Was a native of Florida, 
his parents being Spaniards. He received a good education and 
entered the army May 1, 1821, as a cadet. After service in 
Mexico he came to California in 1825 with Echeandia, and 
serv^ed as the governor's secretary for five years. In February, 
1827, he married Maria Luisa, daughter of Santiago Argiiello. 
In 1831, he was made captain of the Monterey company. He 
left California in 1838, but returned in 1842 and died the same 
year in San Diego. His children were: Dolores, born 1827, 
married to J. M. Flores; Luis, born in 1829 and now lives in 
San Diego; Gonzalo, born in 1832; Guadalupe, born in 1833, 
married to Henry Dalton ; Josefa, born in 1834; Augustin, 1836; 
Eulalia, married to Vicente Estudillo. 

Ilis political career was an active and stormy one. In 1827-8 
he was a district elector for San Diego; candidate for congress 
1830; secretary to Figiu^roa in 1833-5. Proclaimed commander 
general and governor ad interim in 1837, and divided the juris- 
diction of the territory with Echeandia for a time. He left Cali- 
fornia at the fall of Guiterez, but returned to take part in the 
campaign against Alvarado, without achieving anything of 
consecpience. 




CHAPTER VII 

THE INDIANS' RELATIONS WITH THE SETTLERS 

HE relations of the Indian population with the 
^lission Fathers have been sketched in earlier 
chapters, but we have still to study the natives 
as they appeared to the people of Old San 
Die<ro. The general observations made upon 
the Indian character hold good in both cases, 
and we nuist never forget that the course of 
local history might have been very different 
if the natives of this region had possessed the warlike traits and 
organizing genius of their brothers in most other parts of North 
America. In that case, 8an Diego could not have been settled 
at the time and in the manner it was. It would have taken 
more than a handful of indifferent soldiers to hold it against 
such pressure from without. 

The Indians of this locality belonged to a number of tribes, 
varying somewhat in language and customs. Those living 
around the bay furnished most of the mission converts, and 
proved far more tractable than the hill tribes. The latter were 
** rounded up** and brought in by force occasionally, but had 
a habit of escaping at the first opportunity. The destruction 
of the Mission in 1775 was due to these half -wild Indians, and 
they also provided the Spanish and Mexican soldiers with their 
excuse for being, in the brief intervals between their own petty 
revolutions. But the Indians were slow to give up their own 
language, much as it has been derided. It is of record that the 
friars failed utterly for several years to teach them Spanish, 
and had to resort to the expedient of learning the Indian dia- 
lect, themselves. Some of them became somewhat expert and 
able to preach to the Indians in their own language. An inter- 
esting relic of this circumstance exists in the shape of the Lord's 
Prayer done into Dieguino, as follows: 

Na^ia anaU amai tacagiiach naguanetunxp mamamulpo 
eiiyuaca amaibo nianiatam nieyayam, cannaao amat aniaibo 
quexuic ochasau nagiiagui nanaoaohon naqiiin nipil meneque 
pao echcyuchapo uagiia quexiiic naguaich nacagiiaihpo, nama- 
chamolan upchuch-giielioli-cuiapo. NacuiuchpampcucbUch cuitpo- 
namat. Nepouja. 



THE DIEGUENOS 179 

lu Bartlett's Personal yarrative, is a brief aoeount of his 
stni«:gle with this laugiiage, while here in 1852 : 

No event that is worthy of mention occurred, except a visit 
from a band of Diegueno Indians. The chief and several of 
his tribe were sent to me at my request by a Californian gen- 
tleman. They were a miserable, ill-looking set, with dark- 
brown complexions and emaciated bodies; and, though the weath- 
er was cold, they were but slightly clad. Articles of old and 
cast-off clothing, such as a tattered shirt and pantaloons, were 
all that the best could boast of. One. I think the chief, had a 
piece of horse-blanket around his cadaverous-looking body. I 
managed to get from them a vocabulary of their language: 
though 1 must confess that, with the exception of the Apache, 
1 never found one so difficult to express, in consequence of the 
gutturals and nasals with which it abounded. I finally got the 
words so correct, that the Indians could recognize them, and 
give me the Spanish equivalents. I tried to write down some 
short sentences, but was obliged to give up the attempt as un- 
successful. I could not combine the words so as to be under- 
stood, in a single instance. These Indians occupy the coast for 
some fiftv miles above, and about the same distance below San 
Diego, and extend about a hundred miles into the interior. They 
are the same who wore known to the first settlers as the Comcva 
tribe. 

Dana has also left his opinion on record, which is worth 
reproducing: **The language of these people ... is the 
most brutish, without any exception, that I ever heard, or that 
could be conceived of. It is a complete slabber. The words fall 
off at the ends of their tongues, and a continual slabbering 
sound is made in the cheeks outside the teeth. '^ 

Not only had they no written language of their own, but they 
were provided with no facilities for acquiring one from their 
new masters. The friars were not merely indifferent to the edu- 
cation of the Indians — they w^ere inflexibly opposed to it. Not 
even their favorite neophytes were permitted to learn to read, 
and their servants learned only such things as would aid them 
in providing for their masters' comfort. At a time when the 
territorial governors were utterly unable to provide for the edu- 
cation of the gente de razon, it was scarcely to be expected that 
they could do an\i:hing for the Indians, w^ho were under the 
especial care and jurisdiction of the missionaries. To the sol- 
diers, the Indians w^ere despised foes; to the citizens, they were 
inefficient and troublesome servants. 

The employment of Indians as house servants was general, 
for they were verv- cheap. They were held under a strict dis- 
cipline and not infrequently thrashed, as it was claimed that 
in many cases they would not work without their regular casti- 
gation. While Wm. H. Davis and Captain Paty were dining 
with Captain Thomas W. Bobbins at Santa Barbara in 1842, he 




180 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

told them about an Indian cook whom he had had in his employ 
for years, but who had to be soundly thrashed about twice a year 
to keep him in order the rest of the time. To prove this to his 
incredulous guests, he called the cook, a man weij^hing 200 
pounds or more, who laughingly confessed the truth of the 
statement. It is related that Philip Crosthwaite had a number 
of Indians working for him, and sometimes they grew lazy and 
refused to work. Then he tied them up one at a time, and gave 
them a good whipping, whereupon they went to work again. 
They did not appear to resent such treatment, but acquiesced 
in its necessity. It seems to have been the custom to beat tliem 
for other causes, without '^due process of law," in earlier days. 
In 1843, a San Diego man was fined fifty dollars because his 
wife had severely beaten an Indian servant. The missionaries 
did not hesitate to j)unish them for a variety of trivial offenses. 
Solitary confinement was a favorite form of discipline, but 
sometimes the good fathers would take them across their knees 
and administer the sort of castigation that is suppased to be 
the exclusive penpiisite of small boys. In a few instances, the 
mission discipline was so severe as to lead to bloody rebellions, 
but nothing of this kind occurred at San Diego. 

The story of the Indian, since known to white men, is largely 
a story of insurrections, crimes, and executions. There were men 
of good character among them, but they were ^'as two grains 
of wheat hid in a bushel of chaff.'' The storv of these earlv 
troubles can onlv be briefiv sketched. 

Their first raid on the Mission seems to have been inspired by 
a desire to plunder, coupled with pn>found ignorance of the 
white man's methods of warfare. 

The destruction of the first mission, in 1775, was followed by 
an aftermath of troubles of various kinds. An Indian called 
Carlos, who had been a leader in the revolt, professed repent- 
ance and took refuge in the Presidio church. General Eivera 
ordered Father Fuster to deny the fugitive the right of asylum, 
and upon his refusal, forcibly entered the church and carried 
the Indian off. Fuster thereupon excommunicated Rivera and 
was sustained by Serra when the matter came to his attention 
at Monterey. An excommunication was a verv' serious thing, 
in those days, even with the military, and Rivera was finally 
obliged to submit and return the Indian to Fuster. 

Four Pamo chiefs concerned in this uprising, named Aaaran, 
Aalcuirin, Aachil, and Taguagui, were convicted but pardoned 
upon promise of good behavior. Two years later, at the time 
of an Indian scare, when it was reported that the hill tribes 
were making arrows with the intention of again attacking the 
whites. Commandant Ortega sent a message of warning, and 
Aaaran defiantlv invited him to send his soldiers into the hills 



TWENTY PAIRS OF EARS 181 

to be slain. Eight soldiers went forth, surprised the savages 
at Pamo, killed two of them, biinied a few more, and flogffod 
the rest. The four chiefs were taken to San Diego for trial, 
along with 80 bows, 1500 arrows, and a large number of clubs. 
The men were condemned to death and execiited by shtioting 
on the 11th day ot April, 1778— the first public execution in 
California. It turned out that this first execution was illegal, 
Ortega having no right to iufiict the death penalty without the 
approval of the governor. 

After this, matters seem to have been quiet for several years. 
On October ^0, 1824. an Indian whs execntcd by shooting, his 
r)ffense not lieing disclosed bv the ri'cords. Two \-ears later. 




VIEW OF OLD SAN DIEGO 
n Presidio Hill, taken u 



Lieutenant Ybarra, with a small force of Mnzatlan men, had 
a battle with the Indians and lost three men, while killing 
twenty-eight of the foe. After the barbarous custom of the time, 
he sent in twenty pairs of ears. On April 23rd of this year, an 
Indian who was an accomplice to the killing of three soldiers 
and a neophyte was publicly executed. There was also a battle 
between the Indians of San Felipe Valley and spntiles from 
the surrotinding rancherias, in which eighteen of the hill Indi- 
ans were killeil and their ears cut off. 

The troubles and petty wars with the Indians during these 
years were chiefly due to their raids on the missions and ranches 
for the purpose of stealing horses and cattle. Occasionally 



182 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

some of their number who had been at the missions returned to 
their old haunts and led these raids. The rancheros got together 
after such a raid, and went into the hills in parties of ten or 
twelve, well armed, to punish the thieves and recover the live 
stock. They were usually successful in recovering the stolen 
property, but often had fierce fights in which as many as eight 
or ten of the Indians were killed, as well as an occasional 
ranchero. After the secularization of the missions, the condi- 
tion of the Indians became very miserable, and w^hile large 
numbers of them continued to live in rancherias and to practice 
the rude arts which they had learned of the missionaries, others 
were forced by want, and doubtless also led by inclination, to 
get their living by joining in these raids. When Alfred Robin- 
son was here in January, 1832, they were in a miserable condi- 
tion and daily reports were received of robberies and murders. 
From February to June of the following year there was much 
excitement due to rumors of a plot on the part of the Indians 
to unite and seize the mission proi>erty. A corporal was sent 
with a small force to El Cajon, where he seized Chief Jajochi and 
other malcontents, who were sentenced to terms of imprisonment. 

Between the years 1836 and 1840, nearly all the ranchos in 
the country were plundered, at one time or another, and agri- 
culture fell to a very low ebb. In the spring of 1836, there 
w^ere loud complaints and the soldiers could furnish no protec- 
tion, being without arms and ammunition. Juan Maria Marron 
w^as attacked in January, on the Cueros de Venado rancho, but 
the hostiles were driven off with the help of friendly Indians, 
and several of them killed. The savages became so bold that 
they even made raids into the town. An unsuccessful effort 
w^as made to have a garrison established at Santa Ysabel. In 
March, Don Sylvestre Portilla proposed to conquer the Indians 
at his own expense, on condition that he be allowed to keep those 
made prisoner, for servants. 

The year 1837 was one of great anxiety for the San Diego 
people — a year of blood and terror. One of the best accounts 
of some of these disturbances is that in Davis's book, his wife 
having resided here as a girl at the time of their occurrence. It 
gives us such a vivid picture of the life of the times that it is 
worth quoting: 

About the year 1S37 there was an Indian outbreak in what 
is now San Diego county. A family by the name of Ybarra, 
consisting of the father, the mother, two young daughters, and 
a son about twelve years of age, lived at the rancho San Ysidro. 
They had in their employ an old Indian woman, who had been 
christianized at the Mission, a very faithful and good woman, a 
cotnadre to her mistress, the godmother of one of the Indian 
woman's children. This relation was frequently assumed by the 
California ladies, it being a mandate of the Catholic church 



MURDER OF YBARRA 183 

everywhere, that any child that is christened shall be attended 
by a godfather and a godmother, and the Californians performed 
this religious duty toward the children of the poorer classes, 
including the Indians. The serving woman got information of 
an attack on the rancho which had been planned by Indians in 
the mountains, and a week before the occurrences here men- 
tioned she warned the family of their approach. She urged and 
begged that they at once remove to the Presidio of San Diego 
for protection. Her mistress was anxious to follow the advir-c, 
but Ybarra himself disregarded it. Ho did not believe that the 
Indians contemplated a movement. The Californians were a 
brave people, especially in opposition to the Indians, whether 
they went out in pursuit of them to recover stolen horses, or 
otherwise. They were always prepared to resist an attack by 
them in tht-ir own homes, and did not fear them, but considered 
that three or four, or eight or ten of their number were suf- 
ficient to vanquish ten times that many Indians. Ybarra had 
with him two vaqueros on the ranch, and did not think it 
necessary to pay heed to the statement of the woman, who, the 
night before the attack, repeated, with emphasis, her advice for 
the family to leave, saying the next day the Indians would 
siirelv be there and carrv out their plans. 

The next morning at nine o 'clock, while Ybarra and his 
vaqueros were at the corral, about 150 yards from the house, 
engaged in lassoinsj horses, with the intention of starting for 
San Diego, the Indians stealthily approached, to the number of 
75 or 100. The throe men in the corral, seeing them very near, 
immediately ran toward the house to secure arms. This design, 
however, was thwarted by a little Indian boy employed in the 
family, who, seeing them coming as they neared the house, shut 
and barred the door and prevented them from entering. He 
must have had knowledge of the designs of the Indians, and 
been in complicity with them, as by this act of the little villain, 
the three unarmed men were left outside at the mercy of the 
miscreant savages, and were speedily killed. The Indians then 
broke into the house, and made a movement immediatelv to 
kill Dona Juana, the mistress, but the old Indian woman de- 
fended her at the peril of her own life; interceded with the In- 
dians and supplicated them to spare her mistress. This they 
did. The two daughters were also captured by the Indians and 
made prisoners. All the houses of the rancho were also burned. 
The mother was ordered by the savages to leave the house, and 
go on foot to San Diego. She set forth entirely disrobed. On 
approaching San Diego Mission she w^as clothed by a friendly 
woman, who came out and met her. In proceeding through a 
wheat field on the rancho she met her little son, who had gone 
out in the morning and had not encountered the savages. He 
now learned from his mother of the murder of his father and 
the two vaqueros, and the capture of his sisters. He was sent 
ahead to give information of the attack to the first Galifornian 
he might meet. 

News of what had happened was immediately communicated 
to the Rancho Tia Juana, owned and occupied by Don Santiago 
ArgUello, a beautiful piece of land having a fine stream of liv- 
ing water running through it. At that time several California 
families were encamped there, spending a portion of the sum- 



184 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

mer; the Bandinis, Alvarados and others. There were also sev- 
eral young ladies and girls, one of them Miss Estudillo. 

At the Rancho Tia Juana the intelligence created much con- 
sternation, and the camps of the several families were im- 
mediately broken up. They proceeded to San Diego, accom- 
panied by the Argiiello family, who took with them as many of 
their horses as they conveniently could. The Indians shortly 
after reached the place, burned the houses, and secured the 
stock which the owner had left behind in the fields. 

The third night the Indians intended to fall upon the Rancho 
Jesus Maria, occupied by Don Jose Lopez with his wife and 
two daughters. News of the Indian outbreak reaching San 
Diego, it was resolved to send out a force for his protection and 
to rescue, if possible, the two girls captured at San Ysidro. 

Don Jos^ Lopez had a large vineyard and manufactured wine, 
of which he occasionallv imbibed more than was consistent with 
a well-regulated head. On the evening when the Indians were 
to attack him he was filled with wine, which led him to some 
extraordinary demonstrations. He went out and built a num- 
ber of large bonfires in the vicinity of his house, and then- com- 
menced shouting vociferously, making a great noise for his own 
entertainment only. As the Indians approached the place they 
sent out a spy in advance to reconnoitre and ascertain if every- 
thing was favorable for attack. The spy seeing the fires burn- 
ing, and hearing this loud and continued shouting, concluded 
that the Calif ornians were there in force, and so reported to 
the main body of Indians, who deemed it prudent to re- 
tire. . . . The next <lay the force arrived, and Lo])ez and 
family were escorted to San Diego, the main body of the troops 
going in pursuit of the Indians. 

Ybarra, at the time he was murdered, had in San Diego two 
sons, who joined the com[)any in jjursuit, as they were anxious to 
learn everything possible regarding the fate of their sisters. 
They were soon informed by a captured spy that two of the 
chiefs had made them their wives. The company followed into 
the mountains, until they reached a rugged and broken country 
wholly inaccessible to horses, and were obliged to stop, the nar- 
row defiles affording innumerable hiding places for Indians and 
;iiving them an advantage over the apjjroaching enemy. Had 
the Califoruifins attempted to advance on foot they would have 
met with certain death, for the Indians swarmed in force, knew 
the region intimately, and would have picked the troops off 
one by one. The two brothers Ybarra, however, urged on by 
desire to rescue their sisters, advanced further into the moun- 
tains than the rest of the company, actually saw the girls in 
the midst of the savages, and got within a short distance of 
them, but were so badly wounded by the arrows showered upon 
them that they were compelled to return. After that, up to the 
time Miss Estudillo left San Diego in 1842, nothing further 
was heard of the two girls. 

Opposite the house where she was living with her aunt was 
the residence of Ybarra 's two sons and their families. Dona 
Juana, the mother, lived with them in San Diego up to the time 
of her death, which occurred about a vear after her husband 
was murdered; this terrible occurrence and the loss of her 
daughters also, proving too great a blow for her. During this 
time she never ceased to lament their sad fate. It was heart- 



A PLOT FOILED 185 

rending to listen to her expressions of grief, weeping and wail- 
ing for the loss of her husband and children, like Rachel refusing 
to be comforted. Her distress often made the people weep who 
heard her lamentations. 

Prior to this occurrence, the hostile Indians had made several 
attacks upon San Die^ro for plunder and the capture of women, 
but without success. They now be^an to grrow still bolder, and 
to plan their enterprises upon a large scale, and soon after 
formed a plan for the reduction of the settlement. Again the 
clearest account is contained in Davis ^s book: 

One of the daughters of the Alvarado family married Captain 
Snook. After her marriage two of her younger sisters resided 
with her a part of the time. One of them had acquired consid- 
erable knowledge of the Indian language. Several of these fam- 
ilies had Indian men for cooks. One evening after supper, the 
young lady just mentioned. Dona Guadalupe Alvarado, over- 
heard the cooks in earnest conversation in the Indian language. 
As soon as the words were caught by her ear she was startled 
and surprised, and drawing nearer heard all that was said. 
She discovered that the Indian cooks from the different fam- 
ilies had gathered in the kit^-hcn of the house and were discuss- 
ing a plan of attack upon the town by members of their tribe. 
It appeared that arrangements had been completed for tlie cap- 
ture of the town the following night, and that the cooks in the 
several families wore to lend their aid. 

In the council of the cooks, it came out that each on the fol- 
lowing night was to communicate with a spy from the nmin 
body of tlie In<liaus, and take stations for this purpose on top 
of the hill overlooking the* town, where the old Presidio and 
first garrison quarters of the Spaniar<ls in California formerly 
stood. They were to inform the ^'pies of the condition of each 
family, whether or not it was sufficiently off guard at tho time 
to- warrant an attack. There happened to be present in the 
house Don Pio Pico and Don Andres Pico, who were making a 
friendly call on the family. They were a good deal startled at 
the statement made by the young lady, and represented that 
they would give the conspiracy immediate attention. The peo- 
ple of San Diego at that period had their houses well supplied 
with arms and were always on the watch for Indian movements. 
Accordingly, during the night they organized a company of 
citizens and arranged that at daylight each house should be 
visited and the cook secured. This was successfullv accom- 
plished. As each of the conspirators came out of the house in 
the early morning he was lassoed, and all were taken a little 
distance from town, where it was proposed to shoot them. They 
expressed a desire to be allowed to die as Christians, to con- 
fess to the priest, and receive the sacrament. This request 
was granted; the priest heard the confessions of each, and ad- 
ministered the rites of the church. A trench of suitable depth 
was then dug, and the Indians made to kneel close beside it. 
Then on being shot, each fell into the ditch, where he was buried. 
Eight or ten Indians were executed at this time. 

While these proceedings were taking place a messenger was 
sent to one of the Boston hide-ships lying in port, requesting 



186 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

that a cannon might be loaned to the town, to assist in its de- 
fense. The cannon was sent over, with a suitable supply of ani- 
nuinition. At night a party of citizens visited the spot where 
the Indian spy was to appear, and succeeded in capturing him. 
He steadily refused to confess, though assured that he would 
soon die, as his friends had done before him. One of his ears 
was cut off, and he was given to understand that the other 
one would follow, and that he would be mutilated little by little 
until he made the statement required of him; whereupon, his 
resolution gave way, and he made a confession indicating where 
the Indians were encamped, and telling all that he knew. . . . 

After the spy had divulged all he knew, he was shot with- 
out further ceremony, he being an unconverted Indian and not 
desiring the services of a priest. 

The next day the citizers went out in force, found and sur- 
prised the Indians, and engaged them in battle; numbers of 
them were killed, but none of the Californians. 

In December, 1846, soon after the battle of San Pasqual, 
eleven men were killed in an Indian uprising at Pauma. Their 
names were: Sergeant Francisco Basualdo, Jos6 M. Alvarado, 
Manuel Serrano, Ramon Aguilar, an old man known as **Domin- 
guito'' but whose name was Dominguez, Santiago Osuna, Jose 
Lopez, Santos Alipas, Estaquio Ruiz, Juan de la Cruz, and a 
New Mexican whose name is not known. 

These men were Mexican rangers and they were taken pris- 
oners by the Pauma Indians, whose chief, at the time, was Man- 
uelito. It is not known why the Indians captured them, but it 
is possible they had some grievance on account of past ill treat- 
ment. The Indians were at first in doubt what to do with their 
prisoners; then came Bill Marshall, a white man living with a 
neighboring tribe, w^ho will be mentioned again later, and told 
the Indians that, since the Mexicans and Americans were at war, 
it would please the latter if they would execute these prisoners. 
This bad advice was taken and the men put to death. Man- 
uelito later became general over nearly all the Indians living 
in San Diego county. He was a man of fine character and had 
many friends, among the warmest of whom w'cre some of the 
relatives of the murdered Spaniards. 

Antonio Garra, a San Luis Rey Indian, received a fair edu- 
cation at the San Luis Rey Mission. He w^as a man of energy, 
determination, and influence. He was chief of the tribe resid- 
ing in the neighborhood of Warner's Ranch, i. e., the Cupenos^ 
and had large herds of cattle and horses. 

The first sheriff of San Diego County, Agostin Haraszthy, 
conceived it to be his duty to collect taxes on the live stock of 
the Indians, and in his effort to do so came into conflict with 
Garra. The Indians also claimed the whites were settling on 
their lands and trying to take the hot springs away from them. 
Living with Garra 's tribe at this time was one William Mar- 



ATTACK ON WARNER'S 187 

shall, a renegade sailor from Providence, R. I., who had deserted 
from a whale ship at San Diego in 1844, taken up his habita- 
tion with the Indians, and married the daughter of a chief. 
This man took an active part in the subsequent proceedings, 
and w^as hanged for his pains, as we shall see. It was also 
believed that he was in a large measure responsible for filling 
the head of Garra with the dreams of destiny which proved 
his undoing. 

Within the circumference of a circle having a radius of 150 
miles, with Warner's Ranch as its center, there were supposed 
to be then living about ten thousand Indians. The num])ers 
were formidable enough, but the thing was, to unite them. 
Garra quickly grasped this point and set about making his 
preparations accordingly. But the Americans were on the 
alert, and when he left for a tour among the neighboring tribes, 
his movements were watched. Besides rumors of trouble on the 
Colorado river, word came from Bandini's ranch (the Tecate, 
in Lower California), that the Indians there had been invited 
to join in a movement for the annihilation of the w-hites. In 
consequence of these rumors and of warnings from friendly 
Indians, Colonel Warner employed Judge Sackett, who was 
then stopping at his ranch, to make a tour among the tribes 
with two Indians, in the disguise of a trader, and to report 
upon conditions. This party was out ten days and on their 
return reported themselves unable to discover any evidences of 
an intended uprising. Warnings continued to come in. how- 
ever, and about ten days after Sackett 's return three messen- 
gers reached Warner's in one day. all sent by Chief Lazaro, of 
Santa Ysabel, by different routes, that the Indians would surely 
make an attack on the following morning. 

Warner was still incredulous, but concluded to send his fam- 
ily away to San Diego. They departed on November 21st, a 
little after midnight, together with all the white servants and 
some visitors, leaving only Colonel Warner, an Indian boy 
about sixteen years old, and a mulatto boy w^ho had been sent 
there to be treated for rheumatism — the servant of an armv offi- 
cer of San Diego. Nothing happened the following day. but in 
the evening four Americans, invalids and others who were stoy)- 
ping at the hot springs on the rancho, were murdered. These 
were Levi Slack (E. W. Morse's partner), Joseph Manning. 
Ridgley and Fiddler. They were surprised, mutilated, and 
butchered in cold blood — a work in which Bill Marshall is said 
to have been a leader. 

That night Colonel Warner slept, not knowing what had 
occurred ; but the next morning at sunrise he was awakened by 
the yells of an attacking party, which had already killed the 
Indian boy when he went out to milk the cows. Upon rising. 




188 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



he foiiiiil the house surroimdeti h.v a lar^e party of Indians, 
part in the rear of the house and others at the corral. A Hijiht 
of arrows was shot at him, and he narrowly escaped injury. 
He was an excellent niarksniaii and qiiicklj' killed three Indians 
with as many shot)*. In the panic caused by this fusillade, he 
f!:ot the invalid boy out of the house, mounted a horse, placed 
the boy on another, rode off unharmed and heavily armed, and 




COL. WARNER OF WARNER'S RANCH 



safely reached the rancheria of San Jose, where his va^jueros 
had taken refuffe. Here he left the lioy, and, after instructing 
his vaqueros about ^ratheriuf; up the cattle, rode back to his 
house which the Indians wen- busy phindering. Here he met 
an Indian who tried to shoot him, and only Warner's superior 
quickness saved him. Convinced that he could not save his 
property, he rode away for San Diejio, and left his rancho to 
itii fate. 



THE GARRA UPRISING 18» 

The arrival of the Warner refugees at San Diei^o, coming 
as they did about the same time as rumors from the Colorado 
river and Bandini's ranch, caused intense excitement. A let- 
ter from Antonio Garra to Jose Antonio Estudillo, clearly show- 
ing that the Indian chieftain expected the help of the Califor- 
nians in the uprising, was also made public and added to the 
excitement. A translation of this letter follows: 

Mr. Jose Antonio Estudillo — 

I salute you. Some time 
past, I told you what T thought, and now the blow has been 
struck. If I live I will come and help you because all the In- 
dians are invited in all parts. Perhaps the San Bernardinos 
are now rising and have a man named Juan Berus. He tells 
that the white people waited for me. For that reason I gave 
them my word, an<l be all ready by Tues<lay to leave this for 
the Pueblo. You will arrange with the white people and the 
Indians, and send me your word. Xothing more. 

ANTONIO GARRA. 

The people of San Diego at once held a mass meeting, pro- 
claimed martial law, with the aid of Major Samuel P. Ileint- 
zelman, who was in command of the district, and began the organ- 
ization of a voluntec^r company to go on a punitive expedi- 
tion. Sentinels were posted to guard every approach to the 
town and a strict watch kept. Deputy Sheriff Joseph Reiner 
was sent out as a scout and found the hostiles in force at Agua 
Caliente, three miles beyond Warner's. In the meantime, the 
town filled with refugees from the country. The Indians at 
Temecula, after refusing to join (larra, came in for protection. 
The white residents of the various ranchos did likewise, many 
of them abandoning their household goods. Many citizens ren- 
dered important services at this time. Don Joaquin Ortega, 
owner of the Santa Maria rancho, offered to donate horses for 
the use of the volunteers, and Philip Crcxsthwaite undertook ta 
go after them. With him went Albert B. Smith, Enos A. W^all, 
John C. Stewart, and Dr. Ogden. They made the trip in 
safety and returned with the horses, although it was considered 
a hazardous service. Don Jose Antonio Estudillo also furnished 
horses and mules from his El Cajon rancho. 

The volunteer company w^as known as the ** Fitzgerald Volun- 
teers,'' in honor of ^lajor G. B. Fitzgerald, an army officer, who 
was given the command. Two or three other army officers, who 
were in San Diego for their health, also volunteered and served 
as privates. Cave J. Couts was made captain, Agostin Ilarasz- 
thy first lieutenant, Lewns A. Franklin second lieutenant, Rob- 
ert D. Israel first sergeant. Jack Hinton second sergeant, Philip 
Crosthwaite third sergeant, Henry Clayton fourth sergeant, 
and George P. Tebbetts ensign. The single men only were 



190 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

allowed to ^o, leaving the married men, under the command of 
Sergeant Hinton, to guard the town. Those who went were 
forty in number, all mounted. 

The line of march was by way of the Soledad, Penasquitas, 
San Pasqual, Santa Maria, and Santa Ysabel. They arrived at 
Warner's Ranch without meeting any Indians, and found the 
place entirely ruined. Advancing to Agua Caliente, they found 
the rancheria deserted. The bones of the murdered white men 
at this place were gathered up and buried and the village burned. 
No Indians were seen, and the next day the return march began. 
A scouting party captured Bill Marshall and two Indians, who 
were taken along as prisoners. The company was detained two or 
three d«vs at Santa Ysabel bv rain and snow% and arrived at 
San Diego and was disbanded, early in December, after an 
absence of two weeks. The campaign was a failure, from a 
number of causes. Garra was awav in the San Bernardino 
mountains, trying to rally the Indians in that region to his aid. 
It was the policy of the Indians to avoid an open engagement, 
and when the troops approached they scattered in the moun- 
tains. The men were also chiefly armed with condemned army 
muskets loaned by Colonel ^lagruder, and an ins[)ection of 
arms w^as not held, by some strange oversight, until they arrived 
at Agua Caliente, when it was discovered that only about one- 
fourth of the guns could be fired. 

Colonel J. Bankhead Magruder, in command of the troops at 
the Mission, did everything in his powder to help, but was much 
hampered by the lack of men and arms. A company of infantry 
was sent to Yuma, for the relief of the garrison there, which 
was thought to be in danger. On December 11th two compa- 
nies of troops arrived and immediately went out under Lieuten- 
ant Patterson. Knowing the Indians would avoid an engage- 
ment with his troops, he took them out some distance and then 
brought them l)ack on the Yuma i*oad, disguised as a wagon- 
train of emigrants. The Indians took the bait, charged upon 
the wagons which, to their dismay, proved to be full of soldiers, 
and a bloodv skirmish ensued in w-hich thev lost many killed. 
Patterson then led his men on to Agua Caliente, where thev 
went into camp; in the night, however, leaving their camp fires 
burning, they went over the mountains to Los Coyotes, whither 
the Indians had fled, and surrounded their camp. A large num- 
ber of Indians were killed and captured, and those who escaped 
were subdued. A drum-head court-martial was held at once 
and the following prisoners, known to have been active in the 
murders, were shot: Francisco Mocate, chief of the San Ysi- 
dro; Luis, Indian alcalde of Agua Caliente; Jacobo, or Ono- 
Sil ; and Juan Bautista, or Coton. The regulars returned to 



THE LEADER'S CAPTURE 191 

San Diego early in January and, everything being quiet once 
more, the refugees returned to their homes. 

Bill Marshall and the two Indians confined in the San Diego 
jail were promptly tried by court-martial. One of these Indi- 
ans was Jose Lacano, Marshall's father-in-law, an old man. As 
it appeared that, while he knew of the uprising, he had taken 
no part in it, he was discharged. Marshall's mother-in-law 
gave testimony against him. An Indian boy who had been a 
servant of Warner's was convicted of giving false testimony 
during the trial and punished with twenty-five lashes on his 
bare back. 

Marshall was found guilty and condemned to death, as was 
also the second Indian prisoner. His name was Juan Bero or 
Berus. He appears to have been the man named as a leader 
in Garra's letter to Estudillo. The trial was concluded on 
December 10th and the men were hanged at two o'clock, Decem- 
ber 13th. The Indian acknowledged his guilt, but Marshall 
insisted he was innocent. A scaffold was erected near the old 
Catholic cemetery, the men placed in a wagon, the ropes ad- 
justed about their necks, and the wagon moved on, leaving' 
them to strangle to death. 

What the course of events would have been had Garra been 
personally present with his warriors, can only be conjectured. 
Ilis misfortunes were not yet at an end. The Cahuilla chief 
whom he hoped to win over proved loyal to the whites, and 
while they sat discussing the matter, he caiused his men to slip 
up behind Garra and seize and bind him, and delivered him to 
the authorities at Los Angeles. He was brought to San Diego 
under guard on Januaiy 8th, and a court-martial was assembled 
for his trial on the charges of treason, murder, and theft. The 
board consisted of General Joshua H. Bean, of Los Angeles, 
Major Myra Weston, Lieutenant George F. Hooper, Major M. 
Norton, Captain T. Tilghman, and Major Santiago E. Argiiello. 
Cave J. Couts was judge advocate. Major McKinstry counsel 
for the prisoner, and J. J. Warner interpreter. 

In the course of the trial it was brought out that Garra had 
expected aid from a number of Californians, but this was 
doubtless a mere fancv of his own. The court-martial took 
occasion to publish a signed statement that nothing whatever 
had been brought out at the trial reflecting upon the mer> 
accused. Captain Israel says: 

I never understood Garra very well. With his education, he 
ought to have known he would have no chance in fighting the 
Americans. He had told the Indians he would turn the bullets 
into water, and it looked as though he himself believed he 
could do this, as he certainly was not afraid of them. While 
he was in jail here he told me about an Indian chief, somewhere 




192 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

off in the 8an Bernardino mountains, who, he said, had promised 
to send him three hundred warriors. He also accused Argiiello 
and Ortega of promising to helj) him. If Argiiello ever made 
any promises of that kind, it must have been when old Antonio 
had him scared — Argiiello ^s explanation wJis that he was trying 
to find out what the Indians were up to and that he never prom- 
ise d them any help. 

At three o'clock on January 10, 1852, it was announced to 
Garra that he must die. Father Juan Holbein remained with 
him from that hour until the end. At half past four, the fir- 
ing squad of ten men paraded before the cell, the provost mar- 
shal, Robert D. Israel, informed Garra that his hour had come, 
and the march to the grave was begun. Garra 's bearing was 
cool and he showed a determination to die like a man. The 
priest thought his conduct unbecoming, and tried to insist upon 
his praying all the way. Garra refused to do this, saying: 
**What is the use? That is of no account!'' The priest stopped 
the procession and stood (juarrelling with Garra about it, until 
he gave in and began to pray. **Then," says Israel, *'we found 
that Garra knew more Latin than the priest did." This by- 
play continued all the way, the priest continually insisting upon 
Garra 's praying and Garra refusing and declaring there was no 
use in it, but muttering a prayer now and then to rid himself 
of his importunities. 

Arriving at the open grave, Garra took his station at its head, 
and then a new difficulty rose. P^ither Juan commanded him 
to ask the pardon of the people assembled; Garra at first 
refused, and only after repeated commands and entreaties did 
he lift his eyes and say, calmly and with a contemptuous smile : 
** Gentlemen, I ask your pardon for all my offenses, and expect 
yours in return." When a soldier advanced to tie a handker- 
chief over his eyes, he laughingly refused to permit it, but at 
Father Juan's request he again yielded and allowed his eyes to 
be bandaged. The [)rovost quickly gave the command: ** Ready! 
Aim! Fire!" and Antonio Garra fell into his grave. He actu- 
ally died laughing. His firmness was real, lacking all bravado, 
and excited the admiration of all who witnessed it. Editor 
Ames said: **In an instant the soul of a truly * brave' wnnged 
its flight to the regions of eternity, accompanied by the melan- 
choly howling of dogs, who seemed to be aware of the solemnity 
of the occasion, — casting a gloom over the assembled hundreds, 
who while acknowledging the justness of Antonio's fate, felt the 
need to drop a tear o 'er the grave of a brave man and once pow- 
erful chieftain." But notw^ithstanding Ames's real admiration 
for Garra 's courage, he could not refrain from indulging his 
propensity to joke, and, in the next issue of his paper, under 
the head of ** Departures," inserted the following: ^'Antonio 



LANDS SET APART FOR INDIANS 



193 



Garra, Ticrra C'lilU'titv" (liter«lly, tor a hot eoiiutrj', i. e., hell). 

A large Dumber of Indians Hitiii-Kaed thi- execution and were 
doubtlfss duly impressed; at any rate, there was never auother 
Indian upHsiug, of like [)n>|)orti<ins, in the South. 

But although there were no more Indian "wars," occasional 
murders, robberies, Hud pillaging still occurred. A large num- 
ber of Indians lived in and near San Diego all through the 
50's, KO's, 70's, and even far into the SO's, and there was an 
encampment in Switzer's Canyon for many years. In 1876, an 
effort which had been going on for some time to have the Indi- 
ans settled upon reservations, took definite form in an execu- 
tive oriler liy President Grant, setting apart a large area of 




COL. J. BANKHEAD MAGRUDER 



lands in San Diego County "for the pennanent use and occu- 
pancy of the Jlissiou Indians of Lower California." A copy 
of this order, giving a description of the lands set apart, is 
given at the end of this chapter. This was the foundation of 
the present Indian reservations. 

One of the customs of the Mission Indians in early days was 
to camp on the seashore near Ocean Beach, about the time of 
Lent, and remain till Easter, drying mussels, clams, and fish. 
They formed the principal resinirce of the white population for 
laborers, and were tolerably satisfactory so long as they did not 
get drunk. While Lieutenant Derby was turning the Ran 
Diego river, in 1S53. be employed a large number of Indian 
laborera. He found it necessary, however, to offer a reward for 



_ A 



194 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

the apprehension of any person selling liquor to the Indians. 

During the 50 's, there was something like a reign of terror 
in Old San Diego, due to the lawless acts of drunken Indians. 
Severe measures were taken, but without very much effect. 
There was an Indian alcalde who had a sort of authority over 
these Indians, and occasionally punished offenders by tying 
them up to the old cannon which then stood muzzle downward 
in the ground in front of a store at Old San Diego and was used 
for a hitching post, and whipping them with a blacksnake whip. 

During the years from 1853 to 1860, stabbing affrays were 
of nightly occurrence, and very little effort was made to appre- 
hend or punish the offenders. Editor Ames waxed by turns 
indignant and grimly humorous over the matter. On one occa- 
sion, **our able district attorney, instead of subjecting the 
county to about a thousand dollars expense by having the slab- 
ber sentenced to the state prison, had a ball and chain put to 
him and * farmed him out' to the highest bidder for cash.'' A 
short time afterward: 

Since the opening of the new meat market, the Indians about 
town have gone into the butchering business on quite an ex- 
tensive scale — killing about one a week. An Indian boy, be- 
longing to Mrs. Evans, walked up to another Indian boy on Sat- 
urday night last, and with a long knife ripped him open as 
quietly as if he were cutting a watermelon. Who comes nextT 

Sometimes the whites suffered. In August, 1857, John Min- 
turn was severely cut in the arm l)y an Indian, w^hom, how- 
ever, he succeeded in ** knocking out" with a stick of stove- 
wood. On April 10, 1858, the Herald declares: 

There must be something done to * 'clean out" the cattle 
thieves in this county. Whipping has got to be of small ac- 
count in deterring the Indians from thieving, and we have come 
to the conclusion that the delectable and efficacious remedy 
of hanging is about the best, after all. One fellow whom they 
whipped out at Santa Ysabel, got so mad about it that he just 
walked off a hundred yards and laid down and died! . . . 
It has been ascertained that there have been 311 bead of cat- 
tle stolen in this vicinity, Ramon Carrillo alone, having lost 
108 of that number. 

That the citizens endured this state of affairs as long and 
patiently as they did, may well excite w^onder. Oniy one inci- 
dent of vigilante work in San Diego proper has come to light. 
There was a poor old tailor in the town who used to get drunk 
quite often. One day, having borrowed a dollar from a friend, 
on the plea that he was suffering from w^ant of food, he was 
soon seen in an intoxicated condition. The next morning, his 
body was found lying on the side of the hill just above the town. 
He had been beaten to death with stones and the jawbone of 



WORK OF VIGILANTES 195 

a bullock, stripped naked, and left lyin^ there. The manner of 
his death and the fact that he was known to be poor and had 
evidently been killed for his clothes, gave rise to the belief that 
it was the work of Indians. A search of the ground near the 
body resulted in the finding of a knife which was known to 
belong to an Indian called Manteca [fat, or tallow], and with 
this clew the names of a number of Indians who had been seen 
with the tailor on the evening of his death, were soon discov- 
ered. The murderers had decamped, but about six months 
afterward some of them ventured back to town, and with the 
aid of other Indians, three of them were arrested and lodged 
in jail. 

The citizens now thought it time to act, and also that it was 
just as well to save the county the expense and trouble of legal 
proceedings. The vigilante party consisted of Robert D. Israel, 
E. W. Morse, John Van Alst, and one other man whose name 
has not been learned. These four men went to the jail and took 
the three Indians out with the intention of hanging them. 
Israel, who was a veteran of the Mexican war and knew some- 
thing of military affairs, protested that the party was too small 
to handle the Indians all at once, and suggested that the.y be 
dealt with one at a time. He was overruled, however, and the 
result was that as soon as the Indians learned the intention of 
the party, they began to fight hard and two of them succeeded 
in getting away. One of these two escaped and was never re- 
captured, and the other would have done so had not Mr. Morse 
shot him and broke his leg. They then hanged one of them in 
a vacant building which had belonged to Agostin Ilaraszthy, 
and the other in an old adobe building built by Crosthwaite 
near the American cemetery. ^Irs. Carson says that on look- 
ing out the next morning, she saw the body hanging in the 
Haraszthy house, mistook it for an effigy and called to her hus- 
band that the Spanish had been ** hanging Judas'^ again. 

Mrs. Carson tells many interesting stories about the Indians 
of San Diego in early days. They kept an Indian servant who 
one day was missing, and after two days was found in the bot- 
tom of a dry well. He was taken out, very much bruised, his 
wounds dressed, and an Indian employed to nurse him. He 
improved and was thought to be out of danger; but one day 
the nurse went away and left a blind Indian in charge of the 
patient, who thereupon crawled out of bed and proceeded to 
treat himself by the Indian method. This consisted of taking 
a brand from the fireplace and scorching himself on the side with 
it, to set up a counter irritation by burning. He burned him- 
self so severely that he only lived a few hours afterward. 

Thomas Whaley bought an Indian girl from her parents, giv- 
ing them something like $100 worth of goods from his store in 



196 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

exchantje for their ciHiseut for the {lirl to live in his family. 
The girl stayed about a month and then disappeared and re- 
tiinied to her parents. When Mr. Whaley went after her they 
were willing to let her tro, but wanted to be paid over again, 
and thi,s eontinned as lonjt as the kind-hearted merchant would 
allow himself to be "worked," the girl ninning away as often 
as h<'r parents felt the need of supplies from the store. 




ROBERT D. ISRAEL 



There was an Indian rancheria near the palm tret's in Old 
Town where they were aceustomed to hold danoes. "It was like 
an old-fashioned spelliufr bee," says Mrs. Whaley; "the Indians 
woidd stand up in two long ntw.s and danee, and the one of each 
opposite pair that conld danee best won the other's clothes. I 
dressed this girl well, but she would go to those dances and 



EL CAPITAN OF SAN DIEGO 197 

always came home in rags, having lost the clothes I gave her, 
at the dance/' 

On May 26, 1869, the Union contained this item: *'We 
noticed a half dozen or more of the Lo family parading the 
streets last week, dressed after the fashion of Adam and Eve 
before they left the garden of Eden. If there is an old clothes 
society in this part of the moral vineyard, we w^ould suggest to 
its members that these children of the forest receive a little of 
their attention/' 

This was a common occurrence for many vears before and 
after. Mrs. Morse speaks of **wild Indians, nude, w4th the 
exception of a cloth about the loins/' who, ''stalked majestic- 
ally across the plaza, their long hair streaming in the wind, 
or, if in mourning, plastered up with paste made of grease 
and ashes. The rings in their noses were equally as useful and 
ornamental as the rings in the eai-s of white ladies." 

In 1873, the Indians about new San Diego made themselves 
so objectionable by petty thieving and niglitly brawls, that City 
Marshal Gassen and Jase Guadalupe Estudillo were sent to 
notify them to move their camp out of town. Their old chief, 
El Capitan, was found in the midst of a harangue, which he 
broke off to hear the message of the alcaldes, and promised 
obedience. In the following month he entered an indignant 
protest against putting out poisoned meat for the purpose of 
killing dogs, a practice which, it appeared, had led to the denth 
of two of his warriors. 

This venerable chief was one of the best of his race, and long 
an interesting figure about San Diego. The words El Capitan 
mean simply the captain, or chief, and give no clew to his name. 
He was once a chief of the Cahuillas. He always wore a ''plug" 
hat and carried a cane, aiul in his vounger davs was a manlv 
figure. He exerted considerable influence over his turbulent 
people, and aided the authorities in keeping them in order. He 
died in San Diego on December 10. 1875, at an advanced age. 

In March, 1880, there was complaint of "too much pistol- 
shooting around town after dark" by Indians. And on May 
18, 1886, Constable Rice shot and killed an Indian on lower 
Fifth street in new San Diego. The Indian was drunk and 
attacked Officer Kerren with a knif(\ Rice interfered, where- 
upon the Indian turned upon him and was shot. 

In October, 1883, the only surviving daughter of Chief 
OTay, of the Diegueno Indians, died at Old Town. She was 
among the first of the Indians converted by the missionaries. 
Father Ubach thought her to be at least 120 years old. About 
tw'O years before her death, she cut a third set of teeth. 
Another of these first converts, a man named "Nevos," lived 
to the age of 125, dying at Old Town on January 23, 1887. He 



198 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

was a native of Lower California and was brought to San 
Diego with the first expedition, in 1769. He bore his age well, 
was never crippled, and although blind for years could hoe 
corn and beans, cut wood, and wash dishes, to the last. The 
characteristic old age of San Diego Indians has been alluded 
to by Dana: 

Here among the huts, we saw the oldest man that I have 
ever met with; and, indeed I never supposed a person could re- 
tain life and exhibit such marks of age. He was sitting out in 
the sun, leaning against the side of the hut, and his legs and 
arms, which were bare, were of a dark red color, the skin withered 
and shrunken up like burnt leather, and the limbs not larger 
around than those of a boy of five years. He had a few gray 
hairs, which were tied together at the back of his head, and he 
was so feeble that, when we came up to him, he raised his 
hands slowly to his face and, taking hold of his lids with his 
fingers, lifted them up to look at us; and, being satisfied, let 
them drop again. All command over the lids seemed to have 
gone. I asked his age, but could get no answer but **Quien 
sabe?** and they probably did not know. 

There is an aged Indian yet living who is one of the land- 
marks of Old Town — Rafael Mamudes. He is a native of Her- 
mosillo and has led an adventurous life. He was once a baker 
and followed his trade at Monterej-. He also mined in Calaveras 
County, and made a sea voyage to Guaymas. He claims to 
be over a hundred years old, but it is not possible to verify 
this, and his real age is probably less. He came here about fifty 
years ago, and has supported himself by day labor. He has 
been married but is now alone, save for an aged sister. He 
owTis the little plot on which the old jail stands. 

MISSION INDIAN LANDS 

Extracts from Executive Order, dated V^ashington, D. C, 
January 7, 1876, making reservation of tracts for the permanent 
use and occupation of the Mission Indians in Southern Cali- 
fornia: 

**Potrero'' — ^Including Rincon, Gapich, and La Joyo: Town- 
ship 10, south range 1 east; sections 16, 23, 25, 26, 31, 32, 33, 34, 
35, 36, and fractional sections 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 27, 28 
and 29. 

**Cahuilla'' — township 7, south range 2 eastj sections 25, 26, 
27, 28, 33, 34, 35. and 36; township 7, south range 3 east; sec- 
tions 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 3n, 34, and 35; township 8, south 
range 2 east; sections 1, 2, 3, and 4; township 8, south range 3 
east, sections 31 and 32; township 15, south range 2 east, sec- 
tions 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. 

"Capitan Grande*' — township 14, south range 2 east, sections 
25. 26, 27, 34, 35, and 36; township 14, south range 3 east, sec- 
tions 31 and 32; township 15, south range 2 east, sections 1, 2, 
3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10; township 15, south range 3 east, sec- 
tions 5 and 6. 



MISSION INDIAN LANDS 199 

"Santa Ysabel*' (including Mesa Grande) — township 11, south 
range 2 east, south half of section 21, northwest quarter and 
east half of section 28, and sections 25, 26, and 27; township 11, 
south range 3 east, sections 25, 26, 27, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, and 
fractional sections 29, 30, and 32; township 12, south range 2 
east, sections 3, 10, 14, 15, and fractional section 13; township 
12, south range 2 east, sections 1, 2, 12, and fractional sections 
3, 4, 10, 11, 13, and 14. 

"Pala" — township 8, south range 2 west, northeast quarter 
of section 33, and north half of north half of section 34. 

"Agua Caliente*' — township 10, south range 3 east, south- 
east quarter of section 23, southwest quarter of section 24, west 
half of section 25, and cast half of section 26. 

'^Lycuan'' — township 16, south range 1 east, northeast quar- 
ter of section 13. 

*'Maja'' — township 13, south range 3 east, northeast quarter 
of section 35. 

**Cosmet'* — township 13, south range 3 east, north half of 
northeast quarter of section 25. 





CHAPTER VIII 

SAN DIEGO IN THE MEXICAN WAR 

HE people of San Diego lived through an anx- 
ious and exciting experience during the war 
with Mexico. As the only important port in 
Southern California, the town was of obvious 
strategic importance, and both sides tried to 
hold it as a base of operations. The most 
conspicuous Americans identified with the 
war in the West, Stockton, Fremont, Kearny, 
participated in movements in this neighborhood, and the hard- 
est battle which marked the progress of the struggle in Califor- 
nia was fought at San Pasqual. The town itself was taken, 
lost, and taken again by the American forces before the new 
flag went up to stay. In the midst of it all, the stream of social 
gaiety flowed on with only slight interruptions and the joy of 
it was actually increased, at times, by the presence of gallant 
soldiers from abroad. 

The pleasantest memory of the period which comes down to 
us is the attitude of native Americans who had married Cal- 
ifornian women and become Mexican citizens. Beset on one 
hand by the claims of their native land, and on the other by 
their obligations to their adopted country and the natural sym- 
pathies of their wives with the race to which they belonged, 
these Americans were certainly in a very embarrassing situa- 
tion. Without exception, and with little or no hesitation, they 
declared for the United States. What is yet more beautiful and 
touching, from the American point of view, their Spanish wives 
stood by them, even when their own fathers and brothers were 
in arms on the Mexican side. If blood is thicker than water, 
love is thicker than blood — the love which these men felt for 
their country and these women for their husbands. The native 
population divided between the two sides, while some remained 
neutral. The most prominent Spanish families, the Argiiellas, 
Bandinis, and Pedrorenas. promptly espoused the American 

cause when thev found that war was inevitable. Thev clearlv 

• • • 

recognized that Mexico could not hold the country in the face 
of the growing power of the United States, and wisely decided 
to throw their influence on the side which could ofl'er personal 
security, material prosperity, and liberal self-government. 



THE STARS AND STRIPES 201 

Oh July 29. 1846, Captain Samuel F. Diipoiit armed from 
Monterey in the sloop-of-war, Cyanc. With him were Johii C. 
Fremont and his company of 80 men. and a like number of 
marines; also, Kit Carson, Alexis Godcy, and four Delaware 
Indians. The whole composed the "California Battalion" of 
volunteers, with Fremont as major and Archihald H. Gillespie 
as captain. This formidable party received a friendly preet- 
ing from leading citizens, and lost no time in hoisting the Amer- 
ican flag on the Plaza at Old Town. The log of the Cyane 
shows the follnwinjr entries: 




CAPT. SAMUEL F. DUPONT 
to San Dieiro, in command of tht fl]«>i>-of-wBr Cyan 



July 29.-8 to nii^ritliBn. At 10:30 liauleil up coiiraos, stand- 
ing in for harbor of Sao Diego. At 11:30 t-amp to in S\<> fatli- 
odib; hoiated out boats. Found the Mexican brift Jiiaiiila at 
anchor in the harbor. At ll:4o sent Lieutenant HiKgius along- 
eide vith instruetionB to overhaul her papers. At 3:40 the 
launch and Alligator, uniier command of Liputenant Rowan, anJ 
the Marine Gnanl under Lieutenant Maddox. left the ship to 
take possesBion of the town of San Diego and hoist the Ameri- 
can flag. From 4 to 8, Major Fremont left the ship with a de- 



202 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

tachment of his men. At 9 p.m. launch returned and at 10:50 
the Alligator with Lieutenant Bowan, after taking possession 
of San Diego and hoisting the American flag, leaving all our 
marine guard, under Lieutenant Maddox, on shore to defend 
the flag and town. 

July 30. — Crew employed in landing Major Fremont's Bat- 
talion with their equipments. 8 to meridian. Finished land- 
ing Major Fremont's troops and baggage. 

August 9. — Lieutenant Maddox and the marine guard came 
on board; also, Lieutenant George L. Selden. Meridian to 4 p. 
m. Beating out to seaward. 

The flag used on this occasion was a naval flag. One of the 
first American flags used in San Diego was made by the three 
daughters of Juan Bandini, — Josef a, Ysabel, and Arcadia, of 
red and blue flannel and white muslin sheets. The onlv one of 
these ladies now surviving is Mrs. Arcadia Bandini de Baker 
of Santa Monica. Their flag is preserved in the archives of the 
government at Washington, together with the history of its mak- 
ing and use. 

Fremont's orders were to use San Diego as a base for the 
capture of Los Angeles. After collecting cattle, horses and 
other supplies, he marched north Aug. 8th, riding **an uncom- 
monly beautiful sorrel horse/' which had been presented to him 
by Bandini. A small garrison was left behind, but it did not 
remain long, or was regarded by the citizens as inadequate, for 
about the middle of September twelve men under Captain Eze- 
kiel Merritt came down from Los Angeles to assist in the pro- 
tection of the town, in response to a demand which had been 
voiced by Henry D. Fitch. Prominent citizens aided in pre- 
serving order and accepted offices under the election which was 
ordered by Stockton, and took place on Sept. 15th. Miguel de 
Pedrorena became justice of the peace, and Pedro C. Carrillo 
was appointed collector of customs. 

Los Angeles promptly surrendered to Stockton and Fremont, 
who joined forces when the former arrived from San Pedro and 
the latter from San Diego. The victory was not lasting, how- 
ever, for in a short time the Californians rose and recaptured 
Los Angeles. Thus encouraged, they determined to regain San 
Diego also. For this purpose Francisco Rico was sent south 
early in October with fifty men. Rico did not reach San Diego, 
being recalled in haste after reaching the Santa Margarita, but 
S6rbulo Varela was soon after sent in his stead. A number of 
Merritt 's men had been sent from San Diego to Los Angeles 
from time to time with dispatches, so that there were at that 
time but six or seven left. On the approach of Rico's forces, 
John Bidwell, who had been left in charge at San Luis Rey, left 
that place and joined Merritt 's party at San Diego. The little 
garrison were alarmed by the approach of the Mexicans, as well 



MEXICAN FLAG AGAIN HOISTED 203 

as by apparently well-founded raruore of a plot of the Califor- 
nians to kill the Americans. They therefore embarked on board 
the Stonington, a whale-ship then lying in the harbor, which 
had been chartered by the government. The refugees included 
the garrison, the American residents and their families, and a 
number of Califomians who had reason to fear for their safety. 
The town was immediately occupied by the enemy, and, looking 
out the next morning, the refugees saw the Mexican flag float- 
ing from the flagstaff above the plaza. 

In this emergency, Bidwell was sent to San Pedro with four 
men in a small boat to ask for reinforcements. He returned 
after a dangerous vo\age and steps were immediately taken to 
recapture the town. It often happens that we worry most about 




MRS. ARCADIA DE BAKER 



>f the daughters of Juan Bandini. who m 



Southern Call fan 



things that never occur, and the refugees in the whale-ship wor- 
ried about the fact that two of the old cannon lay at the Pre- 
sidio, and that the Mexicans might mount them on ox-carts, 
bring them down to the shore, and bombard the ships. To ren- 
der such a disaster impossible, Albert B. Smith was put ashore 
at La Playa, and succeeded in reaching Presidio Hill by a cir- 
cuitous route. He found the guns, spiked them, and returned 
in safety. Relieved of anxiety on this score, and emboldened 
by Smith's exploit, Captain Merritt the next morning landed 
all his available force, together with the whalers and two can- 
non from the ships, and marched upon the town. The Mexican 



204 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

troopei*s were formed in battle array but soon ^ave way and 
ran off over the hills. The Mexican flag: was hauled down by 
Maria Antonia Machado, who carried it off to save it from the 
Americans. Albert B. Smith then climbed the flaprpole, attached 
the new halyards and hauled up the American fla^. Since that 
day, it has never been hauled down. The Mexicans shot at 
Smith during his daring feat, and he replied by waving his hat 
at them in defiance, lie was not hit and none of the Americans 
were wounded. 

Though driven out of town, the Mexican rangers retired but 
a short distance and continued the siege. They were reinforced 
late in October by 100 men from Los Angeles under command 
of Captains Cota and Carrillo. Their tactics were to avoid 
engagements and cut off supplies. Every day they appeared 
on the hills and shot at anyone in sight, and on one occasion 
drove some cattle away from the flat in town. As a conse- 
quence, provisions grew short and suff'ering increased. 

Commodore Stockton, awakened to the fact that California 
had not yet been con(|uered, came to San Diego early in Novem- 
ber in the 6()-gun ship Congretis. 

The situation of the place was foniul to be miserable and de- 
plorable. Tl»e male inhabitants had abandoned the town, leav- 
ing their women and children dependent upon us for food. He 
at once sent Cai)tain Samuel Gibson, of the Battalion, in the 
Stouington to Ensenada, and this expedition returned in a few 
days overland, driving about 90 horses and 200 head of cattle 
into the town. Stockton had in the meantime made a trip to 
San Pedro in the Conffrrfts^ and on his return the ship grounded 
and was in danger of tumbling over. While the crew were en- 
gaged in staying the ship with spars, the enemy, irritated, I 
suppose, by the loss of his animals, rame down in considerable 
force an<l made an attack; they were, however, soon driven back 
with the loss of two men and horses killed, and four wounded. 

The date of this report, November 23rd, marks the time when 
vigorous measures were begun for clearing the country of the 
enemy. Up to this time the American losses were one man killed 
and one wounded. Varela had brought a cannon, with which 
he attacked the post from the hill. Earthworks had been thrown 
up at this place in 1838, at a time when an attack was expected 
from General Jose Castro, and from this protection the rangers 
menaced the town. They were so near that Juan Rocha could 
be heard shouting to his aunt for ropa [clothing] and chocolate. 
From this coign of vantage J. M. Orozco amused himself by 
shooting at Miguel de Pedrorena while he was escorting a young 
lady. But this all came to an end in consequence of a gallant 
exploit, led by Captain Santiago E. Argiiello. 

This officer assailed the hill, his company dragging a cannon 
with them, drove the Calif ornians from the trenches, captured 



FORT STOCKTON EQUIPPED 205 

theit piin. and turned it ajrainst tliem. The enemy made a new 
stand behind the oUl Presidio walls, but simn retreated up the 
valley toward the mission. Arjriiello having been wounded in 
the lee. Captain Pcdrorena led the men in pursuit, and al)ont 
a mile up the valley exehanfred shots with a party under Lean- 
dro Osuna. A little farther on an American, poing to water 
his horse in a caiiada, was killed. A skirmish occurred at the 
old mission, where a few ranprers were taken prisoner. The 
enemy then scattered, a part deserted, and the rest retin'd to 
the Soledad. 

One of Stockton's first cares was now to place the town in a 
state of defense. The captured earthworks were speedily im- 




MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA 
A Icsdarof tbcSpuiiBh funilies who aupporltd the Aniericmn cauKin the war with Uanlco 

proved by the sailors and named Fort Stockton. It consisted 
of a ditch or moat, behind which casks filled with earth were 
placed at intervals of two feet. Twelve puns were mounted in 
the spaces l>etween these ca-sks in a manner to command the 
approaches from Los Angeles and Mission Valley. One hun- 
dred men, under Lieut. Minor, were placed in the fort as a gar- 
rison. The work was well done and constituted a formidable 



206 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

defense for the town. The remains of the earthworks stand 
today, in a fair state of preservation. 

Stockton now bejran preparations for an advance upon Los 
Angeles. The first thin^r to be considered was a supply of cat- 
tle and horees. The enemy had swept the country' clean of live- 
stock and the horses brought in by Captain Gibson were in such 
poor condition that they required weeks of rest to become fit 
for service. The Sioningion was therefore sent once more down 
the coast, about the end of November, with a force under Cap- 
tain Samuel J. Ilensley, of the Battalion, to secure supplies. 
In this w^ork, Bandini, Pedrorena, and Argiiello, were active. 
Stockton had landed his force and, while awaiting the return 
of this expedition, he improved the time by organizing and drill- 
ing at the old Presidio. Ilis men consisted of sailors and 
marines from the fleet, members of Fremont's '* Battalion of 
California Volunteers,'' and volunteers who enlisted here. Fre- 
mont was operating elsewhere, but Major Gillespie, Captains 
Hensley, Gibson, and Bell, Alexis Godey, and some Delaware 
Indians of his command, w^re here. John Bidwell was quarter- 
master of the entire force, a man named Fisher was commissary, 
and ]\Ierritt and his twelve men were already here. Among the 
local volunteers, Santiago E. Argiiello and Miguel de Pedrorena 
were made captains of cavalr3\ Philip Crosthwaite, who was 
on an otter-hunting expedition to Lower California in October, 
reached the Rosario Mission and was surprised there to meet 
the fugitives, Covernor Pico and his secretary, and to learn of 
the breaking out of the war. lie hurried home and enlisted in 
the volunteers, under Captain Alexander Bell. William Curley, 
John C. Stewart, Julian Ames, John Brown, A. B. Smith. John 
Post, and Thomas Wrightington were members of the same 
company. 

It is claimed that no muster rolls of these volunteer compa- 
nies were ever sent to Washington, and not a man who served 
in them was ever able to secure a discharge. This afterward 
Avorked considerable hardship in the case of San Diego Volun- 
teers, making it impossible to obtain the pensions to W'hich they 
were entitled. It is difficult to understand how, without turn- 
ing in any muster rolls, the officers secured the money to pay 
their men. The late Dr. Winder made some investigation of 
the matter, as well as the present w^riter ; but without result. It 
is therefore impossible to give anything like a complete record 
of the services of San Diegans in this war, the only informa- 
tion available being that disclosed by the participants w^ho were 
thoughtful enough to set dow^n their recollections. Gillaspie 
Avrote that the force in Stockton's camp mimbered 450 men. 
Strict discipline was established, the men were thoroughly 



SOCIAL GAYETY IN WAR TIME 



207 



drilled, and even the marines soon began to preseot a soldierly 
appearance and to enjoy the new work. 

Bandini offered his house to the Commodore, and it was made 
headquarters. There was soon considerable gaiety. Stockton 
had his band play during the dinner hour, and invited the Ban- 
dini family and the ladies of San Diego to dine with him. There 
were also dancing parties in which the officers participated and 
many courteous attentions were shown the ladies, who after- 
wards spoke of this period with prreat enthusiasm. 




SANTIAGO E. ARGUELLO 
Whonoguind thg property of Che HiMion of San Diesofrnni tl 



kB pruminent in political, military and sociai life 



while, an Indian scout had been sent out to ascertain 
where the Californian forces lay. lie returned with the report 
that about fifty of them were encamped at San Bernardo, 
some thirty miles out. This force in reality numbered about 
eighty and was under the command of General Andres Pico. 
Captain Gillespie was immediately ordered to take as many men 
as he could mount, with a piece of artillery, and endeavor to 
to surprise them. On December 3rd, before this espedition 
departed, however, two deserters from Pico's camp came in and 



208 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

reported that Pico had been reinforced by 100 men. While 
Stockton was examininjr these deserters at his headquarters, 
with his aid-de-camp, Lieut. Andrew F. V. Gray, of the Con- 
gress, Captain Edward Stokes arrived from the Santa Ysabel 
raiicho, brinj^ing the followiuj^ letter from (ieneral Stephen W. 
Kearny, j^iving the information that he was approaching by 
wav of Warner's: 

« 

Headquarters Army of the West, Camp at Warner's. 

December 2, 1846. 

Sir: I (this afternoon) reached here, escorted by a party of 
the First Regiment Dragoons. I came by orders from the Presi- 
dent of the United States. We left Santa F6 on the 25th of 
Se[)tember, having taken possession of New Mexico, annexed it 
to the United States, established a civil government in that ter- 
ritory, and secured order, peace, and quietness there. 

If you can send a party to open communication with us, on 
the route to this place, and to inform me of the state of affairs 
in California, 1 wish you would do so, and as quickly as 
possible. 

The fear of this letter falling into Mexican hands prevents 
me from writing more. 

Your express by Mr. (.'arson was met on the Del Norte, and 
your mail must have reached Washington at least ten days 
since. You might use the bearer, Mr. Stokes, to conduct your 
party to this place. 

Very respectfully your obedient servant, 

S. W. KEARNY, 

Brigadier-General, U.S.A. 

This hotter ^rreatly surprised Stockton, who had previously 
known nothing of Kearny ^s approach. It did not occur to him 
that Kearny mi*rht be in any danger, but on the contrary he 
seems to have thought that the junction of these new forces 
with the expedition he was about to send out might afford an 
excellent opportunity of carrying out his own plan for the sur- 
prise and defeat of the enemy. He therefore hurried the prep- 
arations for Gillespie s departure, and in the meantime sent the 
following reply: 

Headquarters, San Diego, December 3, 1846, 

half-past six o'clock p. m. 
Sir: 

I have this moment received your note of yesterday, by Mr. 
Stokes, and have ordered Captain Gillespie, with a detachment 
of mounted riflemen and a field-piece, to your camp without 
delay. 

Captain Gillespie is well-informed in relation to the present 
state of things in California, and will give you all needful in- 
formation. I need not, therefore, detain him by saying anything 
on the subject. 1 will merely state that I have this evening re- 
ceived information, by two deserters from the rebel camp, of 
the arrival of an additional force in this neighborhood of one 



OFF TO RESCUE KEARNY 209 

handred men, which in addition to the force previously here, 
makes their number about one hundred and fifty. 

I send with Captain Gillespie, as a guide, one of the deserters, 
that you may make inquiries of him, and, if you see fit, en- 
deavor to surja'ise them. 

Faithfully, vour obedient servant, 

ROBT. F. STOCKTON. 

Commander-in-chief and Governor of the Territory of California. 

The expeditiou left the same evening, December 3rd, about 
7 o'clock. It consisted of Captain Gillespie in command; Cap- 
tain Samuel Gibson, with a company of twenty-five volunteers, 
among whom were Philip Crosthwaite of Captain Bell's com- 
pany, Alexis Godey, Burgess, and Henr>^ Booker ; and 

ten carbineers from the Congress under Acting Lieutenant Ed- 
ward F. Beale and Midshipman James M. Duncan; thirty-nine 
men in all. Captain Stokes also returned with the party and 
one of the desertei*s, Rafael Machado, was sent as a guide. 

They took all the available horses in San Diego and a brass 
four-pounder piece. The mountings of this gun were made by 
the ship's carpenter, but it proved impossible to secure harness 
for hitching horses to it, and the men were obliged to drag it 
along by lariats attached to the pommels of their saddles. The 
route taken was by way of the old mission and, El Cajon to the 
Santa Maria Rancho. The trip was full of hardships, rations 
giving out and the expedition moving over rough and unbeaten 
trails. On the second day out, December 5th, at about one 
P. M., they joined General Kearny's force at Ballena, between 
the Santa Ysabel and Santa Maria ranchos. without having met 
the enemy. The junction of the forces was effected in the midst 
of a cold, pouring rain. 

A council of war was now held. It was certain that the 
enemy was between the Americans and San Diego, but in what 
force was not known ; he might have 80 men or he might have 
double that number. It appears that Lieutenant Beale strongly 
advised avoiding an engagement, and suggested that an effort 
be made, instead, to capture the horses of the Mexicans. It is 
highly probable that in giving this advice Beale was influenced 
by the reports of the numbers and e(|uipment of the Califor- 
nians, and also bv the wretched condition of Kearny's force. 
Both the men and their mounts w^ere emaciated and w^eak, and 
the cold rain which had been falling all dav and which contin- 
ued to fall all night caused them to suffer extremely and ren- 
dered them almost unable to walk. 

Keamv, however, determined to attack. Without doubt, he 
was influenced to this course largely by the advice of Kit Car- 
son, who declared that the Californians were cowards and would 
not fight. At first he planned to send Captain ^Nfoore wnth sixty 



210 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

men and make a night attack, but for some reason changed his 
mind and sent Lieutenant Thomas C. Hammond, with ten men, 
including Sergeant Williams and Private George Pierce, with 
Machado as guide, to reconnoiter. They succeeded in getting 
near the Indian huts at San Pasqual occupied by Pico's men, 
and the guide and Sergeant Williams advanced to the door and 
saw the men asleep on the floor and a lone Indian keeping 
guard. They beckoned the Indian without the hut and began 
to converse with him, when a sentinel hailed the main party, 
and they all retreated precipitately. In this retreat they lost a 
blanket and jacket, which betrayed the presence of the force 
to Pico. 

Hammond returned about 2 A. M. and reported that he had 
found the enemy and had been seen, but not pursued, by them. 
Notwithstanding the misfortune to the reconnoitering party, 
the General seems still to have expected, as Dr. John S. GriMn 
naively says in his journal, to ** surprise" the enemy. Camp 
was broken at once, and soon all were upon the road, in the 
following order: First rode an advance guard of twelve men, 
on the best horses, under Captain Abraham R. Johnston. After 
them came General Kearnv with Lieutenants Wm. II. Emorv 
and Wm. H. Warner, of tlie engineers, and four or five of their 
men. Then Captain Benjamin D. Moore and Lieutenant Ham- 
mond, with about fifty mounted dragoons. Next Captains Gil- 
lespie and Gibson, with twenty volunteers. Then Lieutenant 
John W. Davidason, in charge of the artillery, with a few dra- 
goQps. The balance of the force, some fifty or sixty men 
broiight up the rear under ^lajor Swords. The rain ceased with 
daylight, but it was very cold and the men, having had no shel- 
ter during the night, were stiff and jaded. And, strangest of 
all, iheir arms were not recharged! 

As day dawned on the morning of December 6th, the advance 
came out on the hillside above the village of San Pasqual, and, 
looking down into the valley through the fog, saw the camp- 
fires of the Californians burning brightly and the lancers mov- 
ing, about three-(|uartei-s of a mile away. Without waiting for 
the main force to come up, Kearny ordered a trot, then a charge, 
and Captain Johnston and his twelve men dashed down the hill. 
After them rode the General and his little party. It was not, 
as a rule, the policy of the Californians to stand still and receive 
a charge. They were superb horsemen and skilled lancers, but 
not beef-eaters. But, seeing only twenty men coming, they 
stood firm, discharged what muskets and pistols they had, and 
received the Americans upon their lances. Captain Johnston 
fell at the first fire with a ball through his forehead, and a 
dragoon was badly wounded. The men kept on, there was a 
confused struggle for a few moments, and then the Americans 



212 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

fell back. A ranger now dashed by; it was Juan (or Francisco) 
Lara, and Lieutenant Beale fired several shots at him and 
brought him down with a broken leg. Six months later Lara's 
leg was amputated by a French physician and he lived in Los 
Angeles many years. By this time the main body of the troops 
came in sight and, seeing them, the Califomians drew^ off and 
retreated rapidly down the valley. 

Captain Moore, seeing the Calif ornians retreating, now ordered 
Lieutenant Hammond and his men to follow, which they did, 
in a wild charge. The statement has been made that a recall 
was sounded which the men did not hear, but there is no oflBcial 
confirmation of this statement. Kearny ordered the troops to 
close up in support, and they did so to the best of their ability. 
But the tired and balky mules could not be hurried and only 
those having the best mounts, about fifty in all, came up in time 
to take part in the second conflict ; the balance of the men never 
saw the enemy until after the fight was over. The charge was 
made without any attempt at order; the men rushed dow^n the 
road at full s[)eed, pell-mell, hurly-burly, strung out in a line 
half a mile long. 

At a distance of about half a mile from the village the road 
divided, the main road leading out upon the plain toward the 
San Bernardo and Rineon ranchos and a branch leading up a 
ravine on the side of the valley. Upon reaching this point, part 
of Pico's men kept straight ahead on the main road and the 
remainder turned up this side road, where they were concealed 
by a rocky spur, and waited for the Americans to come. Those 
of the troops who were riding the best horses soon reached and 
passed this ambuscade, among them General Kearny, Captain 
Moore, Lieutenant Hammond, Captain Gillespie, and a number 
of the men ; then Pico suddenly wheeled his lancers and charged 
back on their front, and the detachment in ambush rode out 
and attacked them on the side and rear. A brief but terrible 
butcherv ensued. 

• 

The miserable condition of Kearnv's men and mounts was 
evident enough to the Calif ornians, who are said to have 
exclaimed, as they saw them coming, ''Aqui hnmos hacrr 
matanza!" [''Here we are going to have a slaughter!'']. The 
Americans found their arms useless, but defended themselves 
as best they could with sabres and clubbed muskets. A scene 
of the greatest confusion followed, the chief feature of which 
w^as the ruthless slaughter of the almost helpless troops by the 
rangers. This lasted about ten minutes; and then, the strug- 
gling troops on their lagging mules beginning to come up and 
the howitzers approaching, the Califomians again put spurs to 
their horses and galloped away, part going down the valley and 
othei^ over the hills. 



THE CRUELTY OF WAR 213 

The story of this terrible conflict was never known in detail, 
even by the participants, but a few of the incidents and a rec- 
ord of results have come down to us. Captain Moore was killed 
early in the fight, in a combat with Pico. The General was 
armed with a lance and the captain with a sword, which broke 
at the hilt while parrying the lance. Moore then reached for 
his pistol, seeing which, two rangers rushed in and killed him 
with their lances. One of these men was Jos6 Antonio Serrano, 
the other Leandro Osuna, both residents of San Diego. Moore's 
body w^as found near a pond of w^ater, his sword hilt still in his 
hand, and the blade broken in tw^o pieces. 

Captain Gillespie, a skillful swordsman, was attacked by 
Dolores Higuera, commonly called '*El Guero.'^ Gillespie re- 
ceived first a slight wound in the chest, and was then struck 
full in the mouth and had two of his teeth knocked out. He 
w^as thrown from his horse where he lay still and feigned death. 
Higuera seized his horse with the saddle and bridle, also Gilles- 
pie's fine zerape, and made off with them. Had he not been in 
such haste to secure this loot, he would probably have discov- 
ered that his antagonist was shamming, and have killed him. 
He afterward offered to restore this property to Gillespie, who 
refused to receive it, since its loss had saved his life. General 
Kearny was singled out by a young Californian, who twice 
wounded him, but spared his life. Wliile in San Diego at a 
later date the General inquired for this young man, had him 
call, greeted him warmly, and praised his brave and soldierly 
conduct. Carson was thrown from his horse and his rifle was 
broken. 

Davis says that in this fight General Pico's conduct was 
brave and honorable; that he watched the conduct of his men, 
and whenever he saw a soldier unhorsed and wounded, called 
upon his men to spare his life. Kearny says in his report, how- 
ever, that most of the killed and wounded were lanced while 
unhorsed and incapable of resistance. They all had as many 
as three lance thrusts and some as many as ten. An instance 
of unsoldierlv conduct is related bv Fremont as having been 
told him in Los Angeles by an eye-witness: **One of the Cal- 
ifomians in the melff ran his sword through the body of a 
Christian or Mexican Indian who was fighting on the American 
side. When he felt the sword going through him the Indian 
knew that he w^as killed and called out, 'Basta!' [enough]. 
'Otra vez,* [another time], said the soldier-murderer, and ran 
him through the second time. 'AM estd' [there it is], said he. 
'Si, senor' [yes, sirl. said the dying man, with the submission 
of an Indian to his fate." 

Conspicuous among the rangers were Captain Juan B. 
Moreno, Juan Lobo a ranchero of ^lission Vieja, and Dolores 



214 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Higruera. Casimiro Rubio was wounded, one account says 
fatally. The horse of Pablo Vejar fell early in the second fight, 
and he was taken prisoner. Gabriel Garcia killed Henry 
Booker, one of the men in charge of a howitzer, which was cap- 
tured by the Californians. This gun came up at full speed near 
the close of the fight, the mules being frightened and the men 
unable to control them, and plunged madly after the retreat- 
ing enemy. Seeing this, the rangers closed in on the gun, cap- 
tured one of the men in charge of it, wounded the second, killed 
Booker, and made off with the howitzer. 

The Americans rallied around the remaining howitzer in a 
circle to protect it from attack. As soon as it was ascertained 
that the Californians had drawn off, Kearny's first thought was 
of his rear guard, following at some distance under Major 
Swords, with the baggage. Some of the Californians were still 
seen in the rear, and Lieutenant Emorv was sent back with a 
few men. He met Major Swords at the foot of the first hill, in 
the rear of the enemy's first position. Returning, they took up 
the body of Captain Johnston, which was partially plundered, 
his watch being gone, and carried it into camp. 

It was a sadlv demoralized bodv of men who now stood on 
their guard waiting to see what would happen next. The first 
report sent in by Kearny stated that he had 18 killed and 14 
or 15 wounded. His oifieial report places the killed at 19 and 
the wounded at 15. Griffin 's diarv savs 19 men were killed, one 
missing supposed to be killed, and 17 wounded. The best con- 
clusion appears to be that 19 was the correct number of the 
killed ; that 19 were wounded and 3 of these died later, 
making the' total deaths 22; and one missing; making the total 
casualties, 39 — every man, save two, engaged. The discrepancy 
is only in the number of wounded, General Kearny having 
apparently failed to take any account of a number of slight 
wounds. Only one death and one wound were caused by fire- 
arms, all the rest being due to lance and sabre thrusts. Fol- 
lowing is a list of those killed and wounded. 

Killed: Captains Johnston and Moore; Lieutenant Ham- 
mond ; Sergeants Moore and Whitness ; Corporals West and 
Ramsdale; privates Ashmead, Campbell, Dunlop, Dalton, Lucky, 
Repsoll, Gholston, Fiel and Gregory, of the dragoons, and 
Booker, of the, volunteers ; farrier Johnson ; and Menard, of the 
engineers. 

Missing and supposed to have been killed : McKaffray, of the 
dragoons. 

Waunded: General Kearny; Captains Gillespie and Gibson, 
of the volunteers; Lieutenants Warner of the engineers and 
Beale of the navy : Sergeant Cox, dragoons, who died December 
9th; Roubidoux, interpreter; Kennedy of the dragoons, who died 



THE MEXICAN LOSSES 



215 



at San Diego December 21st, David Streeter, who also died; and 
ten other dragoons. 

Of the two prisoners taken by the Americans, Lara and Vejar, 
the latter was placed nnder the care of Philip Crosthwaite, who 
soon had to protect him from attack by one of the Delaware 
Indians. This Indian apparently did not believe in taking pris- 
oners, and therefore proceeded to try to massacre V^jar, hut was 
prevented from doinp so. 

Kegarding the losses of the Californians, the accounts are very 
conflicting. General Kearny, in his official rei>ort, expressed the 
opinion that "the number of their dead and wounded mnst have 
been considerable," althoutrh he adds that they carried off 
all but a few. Jndjre Benjamin Hayes, who was personally 




. EOWARD F. BEALE 



WhoucompaniedKn 



acquainted with many of the Californians. and their friend for 
years, was never able to discover Ihnt a single one of Pico's men 
was killed. The prisoner, Vejar, thought that Lara was killed 
and twelve men wounded. He had probably seen Lara fall from 
his horse at the time he was shot: but as Vejar was taken pris- 
oner early in the second action, he could have known little about 
the casualties. Pico himself reported to General Flores that 
he had eleven men slightly woiinded. Two days later, upon 
Kearny's offering to send Dr. Griffin to Pico's camp to care for 
his wounded, the latter replied that he had none. Doubtless this 
was a piece of bravado, but it is clearly the fact that not more 
than eleven or twelve were wounded, and there is a strong doubt 



216 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

whether a single man was killed. A ranger named Andrado was 
shot in the thigh ; he lived at Old Town in after years. Another 
wounded ranger was named Alvarado ; he was shot in the thigh, 
but recovered. 

Camp was made and the dead and wounded collected and cared 
for. Kearny first gave orders that the eighteen bodies should be 
packed on mules, to be carried to San Diego; but it was found 
there were not enough strong mules to carry both the dead and 
the wounded, and it therefore became necessary to bury the dead. 
They w^ere interred at night, under a willow tree to the east of 
the camp. The burial was hurried and secret, as it was believed 
that if the graves were found the bodies would be disinterred 
and stripped. The bodies were afterward removed to the Amer- 
ican cemetery near Old Town, but now rest in the military bury- 
ing ground in the government cemetery at La Playa. **Thus/' 
says Emory in his diary, with deep feeling, **were put to rest 
together, and forever, a band of brave and heroic men. The long 
march of two thousand miles had brought our little command, 
both officers and men, to know each other well. Communitv of 
hardships, dangers, and privations, had produced relations of 
mutual regard which caused their loss to sink deeply in our 
memories. ' ' 

The Generars wounds were so serious that it became neces- 
sary for Captain Turner to take command. The day was spent 
in caring for the wounded and making ambulances. It took Dr. 
Griffin all day to dress the wounds. The situation of the camp 
was on a little height, surrounded by cactus, in a defensible posi- 
tion, but without water. The ground was covered with rocks and 
cacti, so that it was hard to find a place where the wounded could 
rest comfortably. The provisions were exhausted, the horses 
dead, the mules on their last legs, the men worn out and suffer- 
ing from the cold, and the Calif omians on guard near by. Pico 
reported to Flores that he only awaited the arrival of Cota to 
attack, and that the Americans could not escape. 

Among the matters to which Captain Turner gave early atten- 
tion were the questions of reinforcements and transportation for 
the w^ounded. Being informed by Beale that there were wheeled 
vehicles in San Diego, he determined to send there for help. 
Godey, Burgess, and one other man were selected for this service 
and started early in the day, bearing the following letter: 

Headquarters, Camp near San Pasqual, December 6, 1846. 
Commodore R. F. Stockton, U. S. Navy, San Diego. 

Sir: T have the honor to report to you that at early dawn this 
morning Gen. Kearny, with a detachment of the United States 
Dragoons and Captain Gillespie's Company of mounted riflemen, 
had an engagement with a very considerable Mexican force near 
this camp. 



SKKTCH 

Of THE 

ACTIONS 

FOi;ClfT AT 



HTKH TAI-II-ORNIA 

BrD.-i-ciiih.'.AniiTiiniLs 
nnd M.->;j.viii^.- 




218 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

We have about eighteen killed and fourteen or 'fifteen 
wounded, several so severely that it may be impracticable to 
move them for several days. I have to suggest to you the pro- 
priety of despatching, without delay, a considerable force to 
meet us on the road to San Diego, via the Soledad and San Ber- 
nardo, or to find us at this place; also that you will send up 
carts or some other means of transporting our wounded to San 
Diego. We are without provisions, and in our present situation 
find it impracticable to obtain cattle from the ranches in the 
vicinity. 

Gen. Kearny is among the wounded, but it is hoped not dan- 
gerously; Captains Moore and Johnston, First Dragoons, killed; 
Lieutenant Hammond, First Dragoons, dangerously wounded. 
I am, sir, very respectfully, 

Your obedient servant, 

II. S. TURNER. 

Captain, U.S.A., Commanding. 

Of the adventures of these men on the way we know little, 
but they reached San Diego safely the following day, December 
7th. Another messenger had preceded them; this was Captain 
Stokes who, after witnessing the beginning of the battle and 
without w^aiting to see the close, hurried aw^ay to San Diego and 
gave a highly-colored account. He saw a great many men 
engaged and was sure the Americans had suffered defeat. Very 
little attention seems to have been paid to this vague report, but 
when Godey and his comrades arrived the next day the gravity 
of the situation began to be realized. This incident has been 
much discussed, and one writer goes so far as to say that Stock- 
ton only left a fandango at Bandini 's house long enough to hear 
Godey 's story, gave a contemptuous refusal to do anji;hing, and 
returned to the merry-making. It may be true that the Commo- 
dore was found at a ball, and also that he showed irritation and 
made use of hasty w^ords, as he might be excused for doing. It 
appears, how^ever, that he at once set about the sending of a 
relief expedition with two pieces of artillery, and at first in- 
tended to have it leave on the evening of the 7th and to join it 
himself the next day, but it was found that it could not move 
so soon. Gillespie's party had taken all the good horses, Hens- 
ley had not yet returned from the south w^ith more, there were 
no carriages for the guns, and supplies of all kinds w^ere scarce. 
Godev and his men returned wnth letters to Kearnv, but seem 
to have carried with them the impression that no relief w^ould 
be sent. 

At 10 P. M. on the 9th a messenger arrived who made the 
urgency of the situation unmistakable. This was Lieutenant 
Beale, bleeding, exhausted, reduced to a skeleton, and scarcely 
recognizable. He was so weak that the pickets had to carry him 
in, and soon after telling his story became delirious. Of his two 
fellow messengers, Carson and the Indian alcalde Panto, the lat- 



THE FLIGHT OF KEARNY'S MEN 219 

ter arrived a short time before, and the former soon after, he 
came in. It was now imperative that the relief column should 
start, at once. The effort to get the artillery ready was there- 
fore abandoned, and 215 of the sailors and marines who had 
been drilling on Presidio Hill were started off, with one field- 
piece, under Lieutenant Andrew F. V. Gray, of the Congress. 
Lieutenant Jacob Zeilin, also of the Congress, was in charge of 
the marines. They marched until nearly daylight on the 10th, 
then camped in a secluded spot, and remained concealed during 
the day. They succeeded in evading Pico's men and joined 
Kearny's force at 2 P. M. on the 11th. 

After burying their dead on the night of the 6th, the Amer- 
icans spent a sleepless and uncomfortable night. **Day dawned," 
says Emory, **on the most tattered and ill-fed detachment of 
men that ever the United States mustered under her colors.'' 
Kearny was able to resume command, and at an early hour gave 
the order to march. The wounded were placed in six litters 
made by **the mountain men," Peterson, Londeau, and Perrot, 
formed of poles placed like the shafts of a wagon and each 
dragged by a mule, one end of the poles resting on the ground 
and the men reclining on a bed of willow branches woven 
between. This was but a crude conveyance and the roughness 
and stoniness of the ground caused the wounded great suffering, 
despite the utmost care. The wounded and baggage were placed 
in the center. 

The route taken was toward the San Bernardo rancho, along 
the hills to the right of the stream. The enemy retired as they 
advanced, keeping near the bed of the stream, on the opposite 
side. At Snook's San Bernardo rancho the horses and mules 
were watered and a few chickens killed for the sick. Thev also 
found a number of cattle here and proceeded to drive them 
along, moving toward the bed of the stream in the hope of find- 
ing grass. About a mile from the ranch house, near the foot of 
a detached hill, the Californians suddenly appeared in the rear 
and a body of thirty or forty of them dashed off to take posses- 
sion of the hill. Kearny sent Captain Gibson with six or eight 
volunteers, who drove these horsemen from the hill with a few 
volleys and without loss. The booty in this skirmish consisted 
of three spears, abandoned by the foe. The cattle had been lost 
in this movement, and as it appeared that any attempt at a fur- 
ther advance would bring on a fight and might cause the loss 
of the wounded and the baggage, it was determined to halt for 
the night. The men were now dismounted with the intention of 
performing the rest of the journey on foot. An insufficient sup- 
ply of water was secured by digging and the fattest of the mules 
was killed for meat. The enemy took up a position across the 
creek and threw out pickets and the siege began. 



220 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Knvly the next inoriiiiig (December 8th) a ranger came in with 
u Hag of truce, l)ringing some sugar, tea, and a change of cloth- 
ing foi* C'aptain Gillespie, sent by his servant from San Diego. 
He also hi-ought from Pico a proposal for the exchange of pris- 
oners. (Jodey, Hurgess, and their companion had been captured 
by the ('alifornians. Pico treated these prisoners well and 
in(|uired for the welfare of the wounded, particularly for Captain 
C}illes|)ie, wh(mi he knew. He had four prisoners, Gk)dey, Bur- 
g(»Hs, their unnamed companion, and the man captured with 
the howitzer. Kearny had only Vejar and the wounded Lara. 

Kmory\s simi)le and straightforward account reads as follows: 

In tlic morning a flag of tnice was sent into our camp, in- 
forming ns that Andres Pico, the conimandrr of the Mexican 
forcM'H, had just captured four Americans, and wished to ex- 
cliangc tliem for a like number of Californians. We had but 
on<' to exchange (this was Pablo Vejar), and with this fellow I 
was sent to meet Andres Fico, w^hom I found to be a gentle- 
manly looking and rather handsome man. The conversation 
was short, for I saw the man he wished to exchange was Bur- 
jress, one of those sent on the morning of the 6th to San Diego, 
and we were very anxious to know the result of his mission. 
Taking rather a contemptuous leave of liis late captors, he in- 
formed us of tlic safe arrival of himself and Godev at San 
Diego. He also stated that when captured, his party, consist- 
ing of himself and two others, on their return from San Diego, 
had previously ^^ cached'' their letters under a tree, which he 
pointed out; but on subsequent examination, we found the let- 
ters had been abstracted. 

The remaining prisoners were sent to Los Angeles by Pico. 
The letters buried by Godey and his comrades to keep them 
from falling into the eiK^my's hands, having been found and 
seized, Kearny failed to receive them; and Burgess, ignorant 
of their contents, gave the general to understand that help was 
refused. The situation now seemed more desperate than ever. 
The wounded were in no condition to move, and starvation was 
drawing near. It was therefore determined to send another 
party to San Diego with despatches, in the hope of having 
Stockton underatand the true situation, and of prevailing upon 
him to come to their relief. Lieutenant Beale volunteered for 
this service, and Carson and the Indian alcalde Panto were 
also sent. The command settled down to await the result of this 
mission, though not hopeful of its outcome, and determined ta 
cut their way through as soon as the w^ounded were in condi- 
tion to move. In the meantime, the baggage was burned, as 
it was thought there was no longer any hope of getting through 
with it. 

The dispatch-bearers began their hazardous journey at night, 
creeping past the sentinels inch by inch, so close they could 



222 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

hear them whisper and smell the smoke of their cigaritos. At 
one time Beale thought all was over. Pressing Carson's thigh 
to get his attention, and putting his mouth upon his ear, he 
whispered: ''We are gone; let us jump and fight it out/' 
Carson said: *'No; I have been in worse places before and 
Providence saved me." His religious reliance encouraged the 
sinking hopes of Beale, and they got through. After passing 
the sentinels they took different routes, and, as we have seen, 
all arrived. The Indian, being acquainted w^th the country, 
arrived first and in best condition ; but Beale and Carson suf- 
fered terribly from the rocks, thorns, and fatigue. 

This night, December 8-9th, was one of the hardest the little 
company had spent. Emory tells one of the incidents with 
touching simplicity': 

Don Antonio Robideaux, a thin man of 55 years, slept next to 
me. The loss of blood from his wounds, added to the coldness 
of the night, 28 degrees Fahrenheit, made me think he would 
never see daylight, but I was mistaken. He woke me to ask if 
I did not smell coffee, and expressed the belief that a cup of 
that beverage would save his life, and that nothing else would. 
Not knowing there had been any coffee in camp for many days, 
I supposed that a dream had carried him back to the caf^s of 
St. Louis and New Orleans, and it was with some surprise that 
I found my cook heating a cup of coffee over a small fire made 
of wild sage. One of the most agreeable little offices performed 
in my life, and I believe in the cook ^s, to whom the coffee be- 
longed, was to pour this precious draft into the waning body 
of our friend Robideaux. His warmth returned and with it 
hopes of life. 

In gratitude he gave me the half of a cake made of brown 
flour, almost black with dirt, and which had, for greater se- 
curity been hidden in the clothes of his Mexican servant, a man 
who scorned ablutions. T ate more than half without inspec- 
tion, when, on breaking off a piece, the bodies of several of the 
most loathsome insects were exposed to my view. My hunger, 
however, overcame my fastidiousness, and the morceau did not 
appear particularly disgusting. 

The annals of the following day (December 9th) are pathet- 
ically brief. Dr. Griflfin^s diary says: **Iu camp; nothing 
going on ; the enemy parading the hills on the other side of 
the valley. We are reduced to mule meat." Sergeant Cox died 
in the night, and was buried on the hill in a deep grave and 
covered with stones. He was a young man and married a pretty 
wife .just before leaving Fort Leavenworth. 

On the 10th, while the horses and mules were grazing near 
by, the Californians tried to stampede them by driving up a 
band of wild horses and mules, some with dry hides attached 
to their tails. This movement was seen, and by active work, a 
stampede prevented. One of the enemy's mules was shot, and, 
proving fat, was butchered and eaten and proved, in the Ian- 



GENERALSHIP AT SAN PASQUAL 22a 

guage of Dr. Griflfin, **a godsend." The wounded were now 
improving, and Dr. Griffin reported that most of them could 
ride. General Kearny therefore determined to move the next 
day. About two o'clock the next morning, however, when 
everji:hing was quiet in camp, one of the sentries reported that 
he heard voices speaking in English. This was shortly followed 
by the tramp of feet, and soon Lieutenant Gray and his men 
were welcomed into camp with joy. They busied themselves 
until day in distributing food and caring for the wants of their 
comrades. The jack-tars were delighted with the adventure 
and only sorry they had no opportunity to fight. When the 
sun rose the enemy had disappeared, leaving the cattle behind. 
At ten o'clock, camp was broken and the march commenced, in 
close order. At night they arrived at Alvarado's Penasquitos 
rancho, w^here they camped and made free with the turkeys, 
chickens, goats, and wine. A good night's rest followed, and 
on the morning of the 12th they set out gaily for San Diego, 
which thev reached about 4 P. M. and received a warm welcome 
from the troops and inhabitants. 

The wounded men were distributed among the private fam- 
ilies in San Diego, taken in charge by Dr. R. F. Maxwell, sur- 
geon of the Cyane, and very tenderly nursed back to health. 
All but two recovered : Streeter, who was cut in sixteen places, 
and Kennedy, who died December 21st. Wm. Heath Davis, 
who visited the invalids, says that they all had the utmost hor- 
ror of the Californians. He spoke particularly of one young 
man who lapsed into delirium during his visit and called out in 
terror, thinking the Californians were upon him. 

How shall Kearny's encounter with Pico be characterized? 
Kearny himself called it a ** victory," and thought it might 
** assist in forming the wreath of our national glory." Looking 
back to it over a period of sixty years, it is impossible to regard 
it otherwise than as a defeat, even though it is true that the 
Americans finally reached San Diego, which was their objective, 
with the major portion of their forces. The performance of a 
commander must be judged by the use he makes of his oppor- 
tunities, and it is difficult to imagine how General Kearny could 
have made worse use of the opportunity which he had, after the 
union of his forces with the first relief party, under Gillespie, 
to overwhelm the Mexican commander and end the war in Cal- 
ifornia at San Pasqual. 

Had he chosen to avoid a fight he might have found excuse 
for such a course m the fact that his men and hoi-ses were 
utterly w^orn out by a long and arduous journey across the des- 
erts, and that the way was open, as shown by Gillespie's march. 
There are times when the avoidance of battle is good general- 
ship. Beale advised this course and there w^re surely some^ 



224 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

arguments in its favor, yet it seems clear that most command- 
ers in General Kearny 's situation would have chosen the oppor- 
tunity to strike a decisive blow at the enemy and thus crown 
the long adventure of the Army of the West with a victory of 
lasting importance. 

Choosing the latter coui*se, Kearny should have planned and 
fought his battle in thorough, soldierly fashion, instead of neg- 
lecting every precaution and exposing his followers to every 
danger. On the night before the battle he had a good knowledge 
of the situation and numbers of the enemy, and knew that his 
own presence had been discovered through the detection of his 
scouts. He knew Pico had separated himself from his horses, 
and he had the benefit of the suggestion that it would be well 
to capture the animals, then make a night attack on the Mex- 
ican camp. Failing to adopt this ])lan. it was obviously his 
duty to prepare his forces for battle in the morning by having 
them recharge their water-soaked guns, form in a compact col- 
umn, and advance in such a manner that they could be readily 
disposed to advantage and so meet the situation as it should 
develop. Think of sending men into battle with guns that could 
not be fired, mounted upon horses that could scarcely be ridden, 
and scattered along over a distance of half a mile in helter- 
skelter fashion ! That is what General Kearny did. The result 
was inevitable — nearly every one of his men actually engaged 
was horribly slaughtered or grievously wounded, and his own life 
was saved only by the magnanimity of a gallant young foeman. 
lie was able to inflict almost no damage in return for this fierce 
assault, and there is a strong probability that he would have 
been utterly annihilated, or compelled to surrender before reach- 
ing San Diego, except for the timely arrival of a second and 
powerful relief ])aii;y from Commodore Stockton with ample 
ammunition and provisions. 

The only possible explanation of Kearny's incapacity was that 
he underestimated the strength and ability of his chivalrous 
opponent. This fault is very serious in a soldier under any 
circumstances; in Kearny's ease, with the information supplied 
by Stockton, by a deserter from Pico's camp who came with 
Gillespie, and by his own scouts, it was utterly inexcusable. All 
the glory of the battle of San Pasqual belongs to General 
Andres Pico and his Mexican rangers. They made a hard and 
skillful fight with nothing but lances and swords against a more 
numerous enemy armed with muskets and howitzers, and with- 
drew in good order prepared to renew the attack at any favor- 
able moment. The issue was finally determined by the arrival 
of reinforcements, not by the skill of the American commander. 
If Kearny be judged by the use he made of his opportunity, he 
met iuflrlorious defeat at San Pasqual. It is hard for a soldier 



END OF THE WAR 



225 



to confess his mistakes, and Kearny made no attempt to do *to. 
In his official report, he suppressed material facts and tried to 
regain the lost battle on paper. Doubtless he suffered some 
injustice at the hands of his rivals for supreme authority in 
California, but the undisputed facts of the ease leave no room 
to doubt his failure. 

The war ended, so far as California was concerned, with the 
battle of San Gabriel, near Los Angeles, January 9, 1847, and 




the treaty signed four days later by John C. Fremont for the 
United States, and Andres Pico, for Mesieo. Prom that day 
henceforth San Diego was undisputed American soil. 

The 29th day of July, 1906. the sixtieth anniversary of the 
first raising of the Americau Hag, was observed by the people 
of San Diego with fitting ceremonies. Fully four thousand 
people assembled on the plaza at Old Town and gave earnest 
attention to the proceedings. In the procession were included 
the Mexican War Veterans, the Loyal Lesrion, Confederate Vet- 



226 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

erans, Sous of the Revolution, the Grand Army of the Repubiic, 
Spanish War Veterans, a battalion of the IT. S. Coast Artil- 
lery, Company B Seventh Infantry National Guard of Califor- 
nia, Masonie and other fraternal societies, and public officials. 
Mayor John L. Sehon, chairman of the committee on arrange- 
ments, acted as master of ceremonies. After the invocation, a 
large new Hag, donated by the sons of George Lyons, was raised 




GEN, STEPHEN W. KEARNY 



on the flagpole already standing on the old plaza, by Major 
Charles G. Woodward, U. S. A. Following this, a large gran- 
ite boulder, designed to mark the spot where the first flag was 
raised sixty years before, and bearing a snitable inscription, 
was unveiled by Miss Fremont, daughter of John C. Fremont, 
assisted by Mayor Sehon, U. S. Grant Jr., ilajor Edwin A. 
Sherman, president of the Mexican War Veterans, Colonel E. 
T. Blaekraer, Captain Joseph D. Dexter, and others. A salute 
was fired, and the oration of the day was delivered by William 



SIXTIETH ANNIVERSARY 227 

E. Smythe. Another feature of the day was the planting of 
a large date palm by Dr. T. C. Stockton and a committee of 
citizens, to commemorate the work of Commodore Stockton at 
San Diego. Hon. W. W. Bowers made appropriate remarks at 
this ceremony. 




CHAPTER IX 

PUBLIC AFFAIRS AFTER THE WAR 

OON after the formal euding of the war in 
California the famoiLs Mormon Battalion 
reached San Diejro bv wav of Warner's. 
They eamped for a tew days at the old 
mission, and the jonrnal of their colonel 
supplies the followiu*!: description of the his- 
toric spot as it appeared on January 29^ 
1847: 

The building being dilajiidatcd, and in use by some dirty In- 
dians, I eamped the battalion on the flat below. There are 
around us extensive gardens and vineyards, weHs and cisterns, 
more or less fallen into decay and disorder; but also olive and 
picturesque date trees, flourishing and ornamental. There is 
no fuel for miles around, and the dependence for water is some 
rather distant pools in the sandy San Diego, which runs (some- 
times) down to the ocean. 

The Mormons remained but a short time at first, but were 
reorganized at Los Angeles and a company of 78 returned to 
Fort Stockton, where it served as a garrison for a period of six 
months. They were under the eonmiand of Captain Jesse D. 
Hunter, whose wife presented him w^ith a son having the dis- 
tinction of being the first child whose parents were both Amer- 
icans, to be bom in Old San Diego. The boy was named Diego 
Hunter and lived for several years in San Diego. He died, sev- 
eral years ago, at San Luis Rey, where his father w^as Indian 
agent. 

The Mormons, then as now objects of unusual interest, appear 
to have performed their duties successfully while in San Diego. 
These duties w^ere not arduous — merely those of a garrison in 
time of peace — and they had time to ply their trades, burning 
bricks, dijrging w^ells, making log-pumps, and doing other things 
really more useful than soldiering. One of their number, Henry 
(t. Boyle, relates in his diarv: **T think I whitewashed all San 
Diego. We did their blacksmithing, put up a bakery, made and 
repaired carts, and, in fine, did all we could to benefit ourselves 
as well as the citizens. We never had any trouble with Cali- 
fornians or Indians, nor they with us." 

One thing they did which the present historian regrets, as 
those of the future are likely to. Quartered in an old build- 



FIRST AMERICAN VOTERS 229 

ing in which public documents were stored, they used some of 
these documents for fuel and thereby destroyed the records of 
the past. 

Upon the departure of the Mormons, they w^ere succeeded by 
Company I of the famous Stephenson Regiment. This com- 
pany was raised at Bath, New York, and its officers were: 
captain, William E. Shannon; lieutenants, Palmer B. Hewlett, 
Henry Magee, and William II. Smith; sergeants, Joshua S. 
Vincent, Joseph B. Logan, and Joseph Evans. The company 
was mustered out here on September 25, 1848, and this was the 
end of the military occupation of San Diego. 

Jose Ramon Argtiello, who was appointed sub-prefect April 
3rd and took office on the 12th, 1846, was the last Mexican pre- 
fect. The last Mexican juecrs de paz, or alcaldes y were Jos6 
Antonio Estudillo and Juan i\I. Osuna. In August, Miguel de 
Pedrorena took Estudillo 's place, the latter being absent. On 
September 15th, at the election ordered by Stockton, Henry 
D. Fitch and Joaquin Ortega were elected alcaldvs^ the first 
under American rule. At the custom house, Henry D. Pitch 
was in charge but resigned in April ; Pedro C. Carrillo was 
acting as collector when the Americans came and was reap- 
pointed by Stockton upon taking the oath. 

Pedrorena was appointed collector on June 24, 1847, but as 
military orders required the commanding officer in each port to 
serve in that capacity. Lieutenant Robert Clift, of the Mormon 
company, filled the place. 

The constitutional convention met at Monterey in Septem- 
ber, 1849, Miguel de Pedrorena and Henry Hill representing 
San Diego. The legislature met the following winter and 
launched the great American State of California. San Diego 
was the first county created under the act of February 2, 1850, 
and San Diego and Los Angeles made up the first judicial dis- 
trict. The first legislature also provided for a custom house 
at San Diego. Two voting precincts were established under a 
law providing for the first elections in the new state, one at Old 
Town, the other at La Playa — and the official record of the elec- 
tion held here April 1, 1850, reads as follows: 

FIRST PRECINCT— VOTES FOR OFFICERS. 

The undersigned judges and clerks of election held in the first 
precinct of the county of San Diego, State of California, on the 
first day of April, 1850, do hereby certify, that at said election 
there were eighty-eight votes polled, and that the following state- 
ment presents an abstract of all the votes cast at said election for 
the officers designated in the third section of an act entitled 
**An Act to provide for holding the first County Election,'' 
and that the accompanying Poll List gives the names of all 
persons so voting. 



230 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



8. 



Clerks. 



San Diego, April 2, 1850. 

Enos Wall, i 
John Conger, ( •^^'^^^^^ 

P. H. HOOFF, I 

C. H. Fitzgerald, j 

For Clerk of the Supreme Court — No Candidate. 
For District Attorney— William C. Ferrell, 79; Miles K. Cren- 
shaw, 4. 
For County Judge— John Hays, 80; William C. Ferrell, 1, 
For County Clerk— Richard Bust, 82. 

For County Attorney — Thos. W. Sutherland, 71 ; Wm. C. Ferrell, 4. 
For County Surveyor — Henry Clayton, 85. 
For Sheriff — Agostin Haraszthy, 45; Philip Crosthwaite, 42. 
For Recorder — Henry Matsell, 50; A. Jay Smith, 34. 
For Assessor — Jose Antonio Estudillo, 81. 
For Coroner — ^.Tohn Brown, 45. 
For Treasurer — ^Juan Bandini. 

First Precinct — Poll List. 

Poll list of an election held for county officers at San Diego, 
California, April 1, 1850 (1st precinct): 



1. Thos. W. Sutherland. 

2. John Snook. 

3. Andrus Ybarra. 

4. Don Juan Bandini. 

5. Juan Machado. 

6. Jos6 T. Moreno. 

7. Philip Crosthwaite. 

8. Henry C. Matsell. 

9. L. G. Ingalls. 

10. David A. Williams. 

11. Charles Morris. 

12. William Tongue. 

13. Ramon Rodriguez. 

14. John Post. 

15. Andrew Cotton. 

16. James Murphy. 

17. Luther Gilbert. 

18. Agostin Haraszthy. 

19. William Leamy 

20. John Semple. 

21. Daniel Con. 

22. John A. Follmer. 

23. Benjamin F. McCready. 

24. William Power. 

25. Peter Gribbin. 

26. James Campbell. 

27. Ernest Schaeffer. 

28. Edward H. Fitzgerald. 

29. W. F. Tilghman. 

30. George F. Evans. 

31. George Viard. 

32. W. A. Slaughter. 

33. B. Bangs. 



45. Robert Peterson. 

46. A. Jay Smith. 

47. F. M. Holley. 

48. Joseph Whitehead. 

49. John Peters. 

50. Albert B. Smith. 

51. Charles C. Varney. 

52. Augustus Ring. 

53. Leandro Osuna. 

54. Francisco Maria Alvarado. 

55. E. G. Brown. 

56. William Curly. 

57. John C. Stewart. 

58. James Tryong. 

59. Darius Gardiner. 

60. Adolph Savin. 

61. Antonio Moreno. 

62. Lorento Amador. 

63. Jos6 Lena Lopez. 

64. Francisco Lopez. 

65. Tom&s Lopez. 

66. Jos6 Moreno. 

67. John B. Reid. 

68. Jos6 Briones. 

69. Juan Diego Osuna. 

70. John Hays. 

71. P. H. Hooff. 

72. Enos Wall. 

73. George Gaskill. 

74. Jos6 Escajadillo. 

75. Francisco Rodriguez. 

76. Peter Faur. 

77. John Woodfir. 



FIRST STATE ELECTION 231 

34. Philip Garcia. 78. Raphael Machado. 

35. David Ferguson. 79. Abel Watkinson. 

36. Thomas W. Sweeney. 80. Santiago E. Argiiello. 

37. Henry Hiller. 81. Jo86 Antonio Aguirre. 

38. John B. Pearson. 82. Santiago Argiiello. 

39. David Shepley. 83. C. P. NoeU. 

40. John Conger. 84. .Toseph P. Israel. 

41. William White. 85. William H. Moon. 

42. Henry Adams. 86. Lewis R. Colgate. 

43. Thomas Patrickson. 87. Josd Maria Argiiello. 

44. Frederic Hutchins. 88. Salvador Aguzer. 

We the undersigned, Clerks of Election held in the first pre- 
cinct of the county of San Diego, State of California, on the 
first day of April, 1850, do hereby certify that the foregoing 
Poll List gives the names of all persons voting at said election. 

C. H. Fitzgerald, ) ^„ , 

Clerks. 



1*. H. HOOFF, 



[c, 



San Diego, April 2, 1850. 

SECOND PRECINCT— VOTES FOR OFFICERS. 

List of votes polled at the Playa, Precinct No. 2, San Diego, 
April 1, 1850, pursuant to an Act of the Legislature passed 
March 2, 1850. 

(Here follows the tally list, which is omitted, the aggregate 
vote for each candidate being given in the anncAed certificate.) 

We the undersigned, Judges of said Election, do hereby certi- 

fv that \Vm. ('. Ferrell had 6S votes for District Attornev; that 

John Hays had 68 votes for County Judge; that Agostin 

Haraszthy had 62 votes for Sheriff; that Philip Crosthwaitc 

had 5 votes for Sheriff; that Henry C. Matsell had 53 votes 

for Recorder; that A. Jay Smith had 14 votes for Recorder; 

that Thos. W. Sutherland had 66 votes for County Attorney; 

that Richard Rust had 64 votes for County Clerk; that Jos6 

Antonio Estudillo had 62 votes for Assessor; that Juan Ban- 

dini had 63 votes for County Treasurer; that John BroTin had 

65 votes for Coroner; that Albert B. Grav had 56 votes for 

County Surveyor; that Henry Clayton had 12 votes for County 

Surveyor; and that Festus G. Patton had one vote for County 

Clerk. 

John R. Bleecker, , 

Election. 



John Henslet, 



V Judges of 



D. Barbee, / 

■n T r^.»,>TVT,:.» r Clerks of Election. 
D. L. Gardiner, ) 

Second Precinct — Poll List. 

Pursuant to notice from the Prefect of the District of San 
Diego, the electors, residents of the Playa San Diego, met at 
the store of Messrs. Gardiner and Bleecker at ten oVlock a. m. 
on the 1st of April, and proceeded to elect Edward T. Tre- 
maine Inspector of Election, who forthwith proceeded to appoint 
John R. Bleecker and John Hensley Judges of Election, and 
David L. Gardiner and Daniel Barbee Clerks, whereupon the 
polls were declared open, and the following is a list of the 
voters: 



232 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 
14. 
15. 
16. 
17. 
18. 
19. 
20. 
21. 
22. 
23. 
24. 
25. 
26. 
27. 
28. 
29. 
30. 
31. 
32. 
33. 
34. 
35. 



George P. Tibbitts. 


36. 


Albert B. Smith. 


37. 


Samuel P. Heintzelman. 


38. 


John E. Summers. 


39. 


John B. Bleecker. 


40. 


David L. Gardiner. 


41. 


Frederick Emmil. 


42. 


Edward T. Tremaine. 


43. 


William B. Banks. 


44. 


Jonas Cader. 


45. 


Thomas D. Johns. 


46. 


Festus G. Patton. 


47. 


Francis Mason. 


48. 


William II. Hemmeuway. 




Peter S. Keed. 


49. 


John Adams. 


50. 


William Pearl. 


51. 


William Botsford. 


52. 


Jacob Gray. 


53. 


John Ke^ey. 
John Latham. 


54. 


55. 


James Reed. 


56. 


Patrick McDonnah. 


57. 


Patrick Symcox. 


58. 


Henry Wilber. 


59. 


John Brown. 


60. 


James Johnson. 


61. 


Peter Mealey. 


62. 


John Gorbett. 


63. 


Peter McCinchie. 


64. 


James McCormick. 


65. 


Thomas McGinnis. 


66. 


Frederic Toling. 


67. 


John McHue. 


68. 


John Edwards. 


69. 



An tern Giler. 
Timothy Quin. 
Tobias Bedell. 
George B. Tallman. 
James White. 
Edward Eustis. 
Joseph Cooper. 
Edward Daily, 
Joseph Kufter. 
Michael Leahy. 
Bartholomew Sherman. 
John Warner. 
Patrick Newman, (objected 
to). 

Henry Hopp (objected to). 
Thomas Fox. 
Daniel Barbee. 
Oliver Dupree. 
Edward Brennan. 
Michael Vickers. 
Michael Cadle. 
James Blair. 
Thomas Kneeland. 
Francis Dushant. 
Edward Murray. 
Lawrence Kearney. 
John Hensley. 
Michael Fitzgerald. 
Sylvan us Gangouare. 
Moses O'Neil. 
James McGlone. 
William Nettleton. 
Allen Inwood. 
Rudolph Richner. 
James Sullivan. 



We hereby certify that the whole number of votes polled 
at this election was 68. 



John Hensley. 



} 



John R. Bleecker, f'^"^«^^ ^^ ^1^^*^^°- 

D. L. Gardiner, | 

D. Barbee, ^^^''^^ ""^ Election. 

The followinti: is a list of the first county officials elected: 
district attorney, Wm. C. Ferrell : county judge, John Hays ; 
county clerk, Richard Rust; county attorney, Thos. W. Suth- 
erland ; county surveyor, Henry Clayton ; sheriff, Agostin 
Haraszthy; recorder, Henry C. Matsell; assessor, Jose Antonio 
Estudillo ; coroner, John Brown ; treasurer, Juan Bandini. The 
first district judge was Oliver S. Witherby, who was appointed 
by the legislature and not voted for at the election. For some 
reason Bandini refused to qualify as treasurer, and Philip 
Crosthwaite was appointed in his place. 



THE FIRST GRAND JURY 233 

The first term of the district court was held May 6, 1850. 
The judge and the clerk were present, but no business was 
transacted, as it was found that the laws had not been received 
nor the officers properly qualified. On the 2nd of the follow- 
ing September the court was duly organized, grand and trial 
jurors summoned, and six cases tried. Two other cases were 
continued. 

The seal of the District Court was designed by Wm. H. Leigh- 
ton, the other seals by Chas. H. Poole. 

The names of the first grand jurymen were : Charles Harasz- 
thy, Ramon Osuna, James Wall, Loreto Amador, Manuel 
Roeha, J. Emers, Bonifacio Lopez, Holden Alara, Seth B. 
Blake, Louis Rose, Wm. H. Moon, Cave J. Couts, Jose de Js. 
Moreno, Cristobal Lopez, and Antonio Aguirre. This body 
found no indictments, but made one presentment. The prac- 
ticing attorneys enrolled in this year were: James W. Robin- 
son, Thomas W. Sutherland, John B. Magruder, and Wm. C. 
Ferrell. At the session of the District Court held in April, 1856, 
Messi^. D. B. Kurtz and E. W. Morse were examined and admit- 
ted to practice. 

San Diego was incorporated as a city by the legislature of 
1850 and the first election under the charter took place on June 
16th of that year. Joshua H. Bean was chosen the first mayor, 
while the councilmen wore Charles Haraszthy, Atkins S. Wright, 
Chas. P. Noell, Chas. R. Johnson, and William Leamy; treas- 
urer, Jose Ant. Estudillo ; assessor, Juan Bandini ; city attor- 
ney, Thos. W. Sutherland ; mai'shal, Agostin Haraszthy. The 
council met and organized on June 17th. On July 20th, Henry 
Clayton was chosen city surveyor, and on August 12th, George 
F. Hooper was elected councilman in place of Johnson, resigned. 
On August 24th, Nooll resigned, and on Sept. 8th, Philip Cros- 
thwaite was chosen to fill the vacancy. Bandini refused to serve 
and Richard Rust became assessor in July. 

On June 29th, an ordinance was passed, against the protest 
of Noell, fixing the amount to be appropriated for salaries of 
city officers at $6,800 per annum. There were $10,610.54 in the 
treasury. The mayor vetoed this ** salary grab," and a new sal- 
ary ordinance was passed, fixing the total sum to be appropri- 
ated at $2,400 per annum. 

The mayor and council appear to have been at loggerheads in 
September, but the cause of the trouble is not apparent at this 
day. On October 14th, the council appropriated $500 for a com- 
plimentary ball to be given to the officers of the U. S. Coast Sur- 
vey, and on October 18th, they set aside $300 for a ball in honor 
of the admission of California into the Union. 

In 1852, the city charter was repealed and the government of 
the town vested in a board of trustees. The Herald savs of this: 



JSM HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

' * bhvia and after Monday next our hitherto busy, bustling city 
dNundles into a ([uiet village. A little less than two years ago, 
with some $12,000 or $13,000 in the treasury, and when land 
s|HH?ulation was rife throughout the city, our precocity showed 
itself in a wonderful manner. . . . Now, with an empty 
ti'easury and in debt deeply, we return to * first principles.' " 

There were no more charter changes until the new town grew 
up at Ilorton's Addition. Elections were held from time to 
time, but frequently the trustees held over. The business of 
both town and county was small and several oflSces were often 
held by one man. It is said that in 1852, Philip Crosthwaite, 
who was then county clerk and recorder, was deputized by all 
the other county officers to act for them while they went to 
attend a buU-and-bear fight, and thus for a short time held all 
the county offices, at once. Captain George A. Pendleton, who 
was county clerk and recorder for many years, also held for a 
time, in addition to these offices, those of auditor, clerk of the 
board of supervisors, and county superintendent of schools — all 
this regularl>', not as deputy. 

On March 18, 1854, a public meeting was held at the court 
house to consider the state of the country. Col. Ferrell made 
an address, referring to the failure to secure a share of the State 
school funds, the neglect of persons elected to qualify for their 
offices, etc. It seems that the sheriff had resigned and the asses- 
sor declined to serve ; the county judge was absent and had been 
so for several months, while the refilling judge first called an 
extra session of the court of sessions and then declined to go on 
with it. April 8, 1854, Editor Ames complains that ** we are now 
without judge, assessors, supervisors, or any proper legally qual- 
ified officers, except trustees and attorneys, and the clerk and 
county treasurer; and to sum up, a term of the district court 
soon to be held, with prisoners out on bail." 

The administration of justice in these early days presents 
many features of interest. In the first state laws, district and 
county courts were provided for and two years later a court of 
sessions was created. Oliver S. Witherby, the first judge of the 
district court, was a prominent citizen of San Diego for many 
years. John Hays, the first judge of the county court, was not 
a lawyer. He served four years. The first justice of the peace 
in San Diego was Charles TTaraszthy, a Hungarian. The story 
of how Squire TTaraszthy gave judgment for costs against the 
defendant, because the plaintiff was impecunious, has become a 
classic in the annals of San Diego. The best account is that of 
Captain Israel, who was an interested party: 

Agostin TTaraazthy was the first sheriff. His father was 
a justice of the peace, and he was the man who told me we 
must always give the judgment to the man who paid the costs. 



SOME PECUUAR JUSTICE 235 

I was city marshal, and a Mexican named Morales came 
to me and told me that Blount Gouts owed him money and he 
wanted to sue him for it. We agreed that I was to have $15 
for my services if he won the suit. I went to Haraszthy and 
got out a summons and sent it out to the Soledad, and Gouts 
came in when the cause was to be tried. He began to cross- 
question Morales: He would say: ** Didn't I pay you so much 
on such a date?'' And Morales would say, **Yes, sir, so you 
did." And in a little while I saw my $15 going glimmering. 
I said to Morales, ^^Shut up, you fool, he'll have you owing 
him money, in a minute!" ^^Well but, Senor," says he, **it 
is true." Gouts kept on until he had proved by the plaintiff's 
own evidence that he was the one to whom money was owing, 
and not Morales. **Vell," says Haraszthy, **vat ve goin' to 
do now!" *^Well, " said I, 'Hhere is nothing I can see to do 
except to enter judgment." **Vell, " says Haraszthy to Gouts, 
**I shall gif shudgment against you for twenty -five cents." 
(That was the balance which Morales owed Gouts.) **I'll be 
damned if I'll pay it," says Blount **the man has acknowl- 
edged himself indebted to me! " and he got up and left. *'Vell, " 
says Haraszthy to me, **vat ve goin' to do, now?" *'Well 
enter judgment against this Mexican for twenty -five cents." 
**Vell, but dis man, he got no moneys. Ve must gif de shudg- 
ment to de man vat gifs us de pizness. " Gouts was mad, and 
he found out that this Mexican had a fine horse, saddle and 
bridle in my corral. I tliought Gouts would be after this horse, 
so I told Morales his horse would be seized. He wanted to 
know what he should do. 1 told him perhaps he could find some- 
body to buy them. "Well, why don't you buy them?" **Well, 
I don't want them, but to kerj) them from being seized, I will 
take them at $65, and pay you $50 cash, if you will allow me 
the $15 I was to have out of the case." So he agreed and the 
barkeeper made out a bill of sale and the Mexican made his 
mark, and I had just paid him $50 and put the bill of sale 
in my pocket when in steps Agostin Haraszthy with an at- 
tachment. He asked me if Morales had a horse, saddle, and 
bridle in my yard? I said *'No. " *'Well, he did have." 
**Yes, but he has none now; he has just sold them," and I 
showed him the bill of sale. He threw it down and swore that 
it was ^*one of our damned Yankee tricks!" He always hated 
me, after that. 

E. W. Morse is authority for the followin«ir storv : 

Philip Grosthwaite was county treasurer in 1850, and as 
the law then required each county treasurer to appear in per- 
son in Sacramento and pay over the money due the State and 
settle with the State treasurer, he proceeded to Sacramento at 
the required time, and paid over the funds due the State — 
somewhat less than $200. As his traveling fees amounted to 
$300, he returned with more money than he took up, having 
made his annual, and, to him, very satisfactory settlement. 
But it is said the State treasurer suggested to him that under 
similar conditions it would be more satisfactorv to the State 
if he should play the role of the embezzler and run away with 
the State funds before settlement day. 



236 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

The political life of the early days was thoroughly character- 
istic of pioneer conditions, yet many able and high-minded men 
were engaged in the public service, though there were doubtless 
others who were illiterate and incompetent. Social customs have 
improved since judges adjourned court in order to take a drink 
or to witness a bull-and-bear fight. It was the customs rather 
than the courts that were to blame for such things. 

In 1851 a strong agitation began in favor of dividing the state 
and organizing Southern California as a separate territory. Pub- 
lic sentiment in San Diego supported the movement, and a com- 
mittee was appointed to co-operate with Los Angeles, Santa Bar- 
bara, and Monterey in bringing it to fruition. In 1859 the legis- 
lature submitted the question to a referendum vote in the six 
Routhern counties. It was carried by a two-thirds majority, but 
the legality of the vote was questioned, much opposition arose, 
and the effort was abandoned. 

Under date of Feb. 13, 1849, James Buchanan, Secretary of 
State, issued instructions for running the international boundary 
line between the United States and Mexico. The head of the 
Commission, who came to San Diego in connection with the 
work, was Colonel John B. Weller, of Ohio, afterward governor 
of California and one of its representatives in the United States 
Senate. He was accompanied by Andrew B. Gray, surveyor, 
Wm. II. Emory, astronomer, and Oliver S. Witherby, quarter- 
master and commissarv\ The instrnctions of the Commission 
were to **run and mark that part of the boundary consisting of 
a straight line from a point on the coast of the Pacific Ocean 
distant one marine league due south of the southernmost point 
of the port of San Diego, to the middle of the Rio Gila, where 
it unites with the Colorado.'' The initial point of the boundary 
was fixed 18 miles south of San Diego, on a spot 500 feet from 
the ocean and 42 feet above its level. The monument was erected 
in June, 1851. 

There was some disappointment in California at the failure 
of the United States to obtain the Peninsula in the settlement 
with Mexico, and genuine dissatisfaction with the result on the 
part of some citizens of Lower California. As a consequence, 
there was some sympathy with William Walker when he made 
his filibustering attempt upon the Peninsula in 1853-4. When 
the effort collapsed, some of Walker's associates, among them his 
secretary of state, were arrested in San Diego and taken to San 
Francisco for trial. 

The politics of San Diego city and county was strongly Dem- 
ocratic in the early days of American rule. Many, probably a 
majority, of the fii-st American settlers were from the South- 
ern States, and the following incident shows the social temper 
of the time. 



SOLVING A SCHOOL PROBLEM 237 

Miss Mary C. Walker arrived in San Diego on the morning 
of July 5, 1865, having been sent from San Francisco by the 
state superintendent of schools to till a vacancy as teacher. 
She was a native of New England and entertained no prejudices 
against negroes. On the voyage from San Francisco, she suf- 
fered from mdl de mer and was attended by the stewardess, a 
quadroon. Some weeks later, while her school was in progress, 
she found this negress in Manasse's store, eating a lunch of 
crackers and cheese, and feeling a friendly interest in the 
woman, invited her to take dinner with her at the Franklin 
House. When they entered the dining-room and sat down at 
the table together, a number of people who were there at once 
got up and left, and Miss Walker and her guest had the table 
and the room to themselves. 

There was a storm, at once. The teacher's dismissal was de- 
manded and most of the children were taken out of school. The 
Yankee school-ma'am did not understand things clearly, and 
made the matter worse by some unguarded remarks comparing 
the complexion of certain of the protesting Californians with 
that of her guest. The school trustees at the time were Dr. D. 
B. Hoffman, E. W. Morse, and Robert D. Israel. Hoffman felt 
that, whatever the merits of the case, the school money could 
not he wasted keeping an empty schoolroom open. Israel was an 
old soldier and a Republican, and his sentiments are best ex- 
pressed in his own words: '' 'Morse,' said I, *I'll be damned if 
I wouldn't take that school money and throw it in the bay as 
far as I could send it, before I would dismiss the teacher to 
please these copperheads ! You may do as you please, but I will 
never consent to her dismissal.' " It is easy to believe that the 
Captain would have stood his ground, but it proved that the 
third trustee, Morse, was a diplomatist. He was then a wid- 
ower and had matrimonial designs upon the teacher. She ten- 
dered her resignation and became Mrs. E. W. Morse, and thus 
the countrv was saved once more. 




CHAPTER X 

ACCOUNTS OF EARLY VISITORS AND SETTLERS 

HE Panama Steamship Line was established in 
1849, and San Diego became a port of call. 
By 1850 it had nearly 500 population, with 
as many more at La Play a, and with a new 
settlement sprouting on the site of the pres- 
ent city. It was a period of fluctuating hopes 
and fortunes, but without important achieve- 
ment. In the two decades which separated 
the war with Mexico from the beginning of the great Horton 
enterprise, the steamers brought many visitors as well as settlers 
who became citizens of note. Several of these men and women 
left interesting accounts which furnish a clear idea of the 
appearance of town and country and of the features of local life. 
Thus, Philip Crasthwaite tells us that in 1845, there was not 
a house between Old Town and the Punta Rancho, owned by 
Don Santiago E. Argiiello. The San Diego Mission was partly 
dilapidated, but the main church edifice and some of the wings 
were in good condition. The priest then in charge of the mis- 
sion was Father Vicente Oliva, and he came to the presidio on 
Sundays to celebrate mass. Besides olive orchards and vine- 
yards, the mission owned some horses, cattle, and sheep. Near 
the mission was a large Indian village or ranchena. The prin- 
cipal business was the raising of cattle for their hides and 
tallow. 

Major Wm. H. Emory, who came with General Kearny in 
December, 1846, made these observations: 

The town consists of a few adobe houses, two or three of 
which only have plank floors. It is situated at the foot of 
a high hill on a sand-flat, two miles wide, reaching from the 
head of San Diego Bay to False Bay. A high promontory, of 
nearly the same width, runs into the sea for four or five miles, 
and is connected by the flat with the main-land. The road to 
the hide-houses leads on the eastward of this promontory. . . . 
The bay is a narrow arm of the sea indenting the land for 
some four or five miles, easily defended, and having twenty 
feet, making the greatest water twenty-five feet. . . . 
feet of water at the lowest tide. The rise is said to be five 

San Diego is, all things considered, perhaps one of the best 
harbors on the Coast, from Callao to Puget Sound, with a 



VISIT OF BAYARD TAYLOR 239 

Bingle exception, that of Sau FranciBco. In the opinion of 
some intelligent navy officers, it is preferable even to tliis. 
Tlie harbor of Sau Francisco has more water, but that of ^an 
Diego has a more uniform climate, better anchorage, and per- 
fect security from winds in any direction. 

One of the moat famous visitors of early days was Bayard 
Taylor, who was here in 1849, and managed to impress his lit- 
erary genius upon his record. In his book. El Dorado, or. Ad- 
ventures in the Path of Empire (dedieated. by the way, to Lieu- 
tenant Edward F, Beale), he says: 




Two momings after, I saw the sun rise behind tbe moiin- 
tains back of San Diego. Point Luma, at tbe extremity of the 
bay, came in sight on the left, and in less than an hour we were 
at anchor before the hidc-hoiiaes at the landing place. The 
southern abore of the bay is low and sandy; from the bluff 
heights at the opposite side a narrow strip of shingly beach 
makes out into the sea, like a natural breakwater, leaving an 
entrance not more than three hundred yards broad. The har- 
bor is the finest on the Pacific, with the exception of Acapuico, 
and capable of easy and complete defense. The old hiile- 
faonses are bnilt at the foot of the hills just inside the bay, anil 



» HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

a. fine road along tbe shore leads to the town of San Diego, 
which is situated on a plain, three milee distant and hardly 
visible from the anchoragp. Above thp houses, on a little 
eminence, several tents «-ere planted, and a short distance fur- 
ther were several recent graves, surrounded by paling. A num- 
ber of people were clustered on the beach, and boats laden wttli 
passengers and freight, instantly put off to us. In a few mo- 
ments after our gan was fired, we could see horsemen coming 
down from San Diego at full gallop, one of whom carried be- 
hind him a lady in graceful riding costume. Tn tbe first boat were 




Colonel Weller, U. S. Bouudory Commissioner, and Major Hill 
of the Army. Then followed anumber of men, lank and brown 
as is the ribbed sea-sand — men with long hair and beards, 
and faces from which the rigid expresBion of suffering was 
scarcely relaxed. They were the first of the overland emi- 
grants by the Gila route, who had renched San Diego a few days 
before. Their clothes were in tatters, their boots, in many 
cases, Tcplaci'il by moccasins, and except their rifles and some 
small packages rolled in deerskin, they had nothing left of the 
abundant stores with which they left home. 

We hove anchor in half an hour, and again rounded Point 
Loma, onr number increased by more than fifty passengers. 



PRESIDIO IN 1850 241 

The Point, which eonies down to the sea at an angle of 60 
degrees, has been lately purchased by an American, for what 
purpose I cannot imagine, unless it is with the hope of specu- 
lating on the Government when it shall be wanted for a light- 
house. . . . 

The emigrants we took on board at San Diego were objects 
of general interest. The stories of their adventures by the way 
sounded more marvellous than anything ] had heard or rea<i 
since my boyish acquaintance with Robinson Crusoe, Captain 
Cook, and John Lrdyard. Taking them as the average expe- 
rience of the thirty thousand emigrants who last year crossed 
the plains, this California crusade will more than equal the 
great military expeditions of the Middle Ages in magnitude, 
peril, and adventure. The amount of suffering which must have 
been endured in the savage mountain passes and herbless 
deserts of the interior, cannot be told in words. Some had come 
by way of Santa Fe and along the savage hills of the Gila; 
some, starting from the Red River, had crossed the Great Stake 
Desert and taken the road from Paso Del Norte to Tucson in 
Sonora; some had passed through Mexico and after sj)ending 
one hundred and four days at sea, run into San Diego and given 
up their vessels; some had landed, weary with a seven months* 
voyage around Cape Horn; and some, finally, had reached the 
place on foot, after walking the whole length of the Califor- 
nian Peninsula. 

The reminiscences of E. W. ^lorse are anionjo: the richest we 
have and are necessarily drawn upon in many connections. 
He says: 

When I first saw the jiresidio (in 1850), the adobe walls of 
the church and portions of other buildings were still standing. 
The roofing tiles and most of the adobes and other building 
materials had been utilized in building up the new town, on the 
flat. It was not long, however, before even the churcn walls 
were carried away, probably by some undevout ** gringo." 

There was then no doctor at Old Town, either American or 
Spanish. The army surgeon at the Mission Barracks did some gen- 
eral practice, and he was the only physician in the country. 
There was literally no agriculture, and most of the live stock 
business was in the hands of the Spanish. Abel Stearns, in 
Los Angeles county, and Don Juan Forster, had large ranches. 
The biggest fenced field in the country was in the San Lui3 
Key Valley; it contained about ten acres and belonged to 
some Indians. The only bridge in the county was out near 
Santa Ysabel, and it was built by the Indians. Some years 
later we had an assessor who was a cattleraiser, and in his re- 
port to the State Comptroller he said that no part of the coun- 
try was fit for agriculture. That was what people honestly 
thought, at the time. 

The river then ran in close to the high ground at Old Town, 
making a bluff of ten or fifteen feet near the McCoy house, 
where it undermined and caved down an old adobe house. 
There were a good many people who came here by the overland 
rente, on their way to the mines. 



242 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



J. M. JuHhi], in later days editor tif the San Divgiin. was in 
San Diego Bay on Jlay 4. 1850, on hoard the steamer Pan- 
ama, en route to the Isthmus. The steiinicr stopped to bury a 
passenger who had died *■» roitle and to examine the bay in the 
interest of the steamship company. Julian records that tlie 
site of the present city was "as green and pretty as any |>lace 
we had ever seen, and covered with a growth of small trees." 
He carried away the impression that Old Town was a flourish- 
in}; place. 

Mrs. Carson can only recall one American woman who was 
living at Old San Diego when she came, 1864. That was Mrs. 
Robinson, the wife of J. W. Robinson. There were several 
American men, but most of them were married to Californian 
women. 




GEORGE A. PENDLETON'S HOUSE 
Whare Lieutenant Dsrby (John Phoenix) liv« 



The old road to the miBBJon crossed the river at Old Town 
and went up on the north aide, instead of the south Hide, as it 
now nins. It irossed the river again near the misBton and 
went out by way of what is now CJrantville. The San Diego 
River emptied into the harbor then, and for some years after. 
There were some houses on the west aide of the river, mid one 
man had a house and garden in its bed. People told him he 
would be washed away, but he did not believe it. One morn- 
ing, when he got up his house was floating down to the bay. 

Lieutenant Derby, famous as "John Phoenix," made the fol- 
lowing delightful record i>f hia first impressions of the place: 

The Bay of San Diegn is shaped like a boot, the leg forming 
the entrance from the sea. and the toe extending some twelve 
miles inland at right angles to it, as a matter of course, points 



DERBY'S FIRST IMPRESSIONS 243 

southward to the latter end of Mexico, from which it is dis- 
tant at present precisely three miles. 

The three villages then, which go to make up the great city 
of San Biego, are the Playa, Old Town, and New Town, or 
** Davis's Folly/' At the Playa there are but few buildings at 
present, and these are not remarkable for size or architectural 
beauty of design. A long, low, one-storied tenement, near the 
base of the hilis, once occupied by rollicking Captain Magruder 
and the officers under his command, is now the place where 
Judge Witherby, like Matthew, patiently **sit8 at the receipt 
of customs. '* But few auftomers appear, for with the exception 
of the mail steamer once a fortnight, and the Goliah and OMOf 
two little coasting steamers that wheeze in and out once or 
twice a month, the calm waters of San Diego Bay remain un- 
ruffled by keel or cut-water from one year's end to another. 
Such a thing as a foreign bottom has never made its appear- 
ance to gladden the Collector's heart; in this respect, the har- 
bor has indeed proved bottomless. Two crazy old hulks riding 
at anchor, and the barque Clarissa Andrews (filled with coal for 
the P. M. S. S. Co.) wherein dwells Captain Bogart, like a 
second Kobinson Crusoe, with a man Friday who is mate, cook, 
steward and all hands, make up the amount of shipping at 
the Plava. 

Then there is the Ocean House (that's Donohoe's), and a 
store marked Gardiner and Bleecker, than the inside of which 
nothing could be bleaker, for there's ** nothing in it," and an 
odd-looking little building on stilts out in the water, where 
a savant named Sabot, in the employ of the U. S. Engineers, 
makes mysterious observations on the tide; and these, with 
three other small buildings, unoccupied, a fence and a gprave- 
yard, constitute all the *' improvements" that have been made , 
at the Plava. The ruins of two old hide-houses, immortalized 
by Dana in his Two Years Before the Mast, are still stand- 
ing, one bearing the weather-beaten name of Tasso. We ex- 
amined these and got well bitten by fleas for our trouble. We 
also examined the other great curiosity of the Playa, a nat- 
ural one — being a cleft in the adjacent hills some hundred 
feet in depth, with a smooth, hard floor of white sand and its 
walls of indurated clay, perforated with cavities wherein dwell 
countless numbers of great white owls. . . . Through 
this cleft we marched into the bowels of the land without im- 
pediment for nearly half a mile. . . . 

From present appearances one would be little disposed to 
imagine that the Playa in five or six years might become a 
city of the size of Louisville, with brick buildings, paved 
streets, gas lights, theaters, gambling houses, and so forth. It 
is not at all improbable, however, should the great Pacific Rail- 
road terminate at San Diego . . . the Playa must be the 
depot, and as such will become a point of great importance. 
The land-holders about here are well aware of this fact, and 
consequently affix already incredible prices to very unpre- 
possessing pieces of land. Lots of 150 feet front, not situated 
in particularly eligible places either, have been sold within the 
last few weeks for $500 apiece. . . . While at the Playa 
I had the pleasure of forming an acquaintance with the pilot, 
Captain Wm. 6. Oliver, as noble a specimen of a sailor as you 
would wish to see. He was a lieutenant in the Texas Navy, 



244 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

under the celebrated Moore, and told me many yarns concerning 
that gallant commander. . . . Leaving the Playa in a 
wagon drawn by two wild mules, driven at the top of their 
speed by the intrepid Donohoe, Mac and I were whirled over 
a hard road, smooth and even as a ballroom floor, on our way to 
Old Town. Five miles from La Playa we passed the estate of 
the Hon. John Hays, County Judge of San Diego, an old Texan 
and a most amiable gentleman. The Judge has a fine farm of 
80 or 100 acres under high cultivation, and ... a private 
fish pond. He has enclosed some twenty acres of the flats 
near his residence, having a small outlet with a net attached, 
from which he daily makes a haul almost equalling the mirac- 
ulous draught on Lake CJennesaret. 

The old town of San Diego is pleasantly situated on the 
left bank of the little river that bears its name. Tt contains 
perhaps a hundred houses, some of wood, but mostly of the 
adoban or dresan order of architecture. A small Plaza forms 
the center of the town, one side of which is occupied by a lit- 
tle adobe building used as a court room, the Colorado House, 
a wooden structure whereof the second story is occupied by the 
San Diego Herald, . . . and tlie Exchange^ a hostelry at 
which we stopped. This establishment is kept by Hoof (fa- 
miliarly known as Johnny, but whom I at once christene<l 
** Cloven") and Tibbetts, who is also called Two-bitts, in hon- 
orable distinction from an unworthy partner he once had, who 
obtained unenviable notoriety as ** Picayune Smith.'* On enter- 
ing, we found ourselves in a large bar and billiard room, fitted 
up with the customary pictures and mirrors. . . . Here 
also 1 made the acquaintance of Squire Moon, a jovial middle- 
aged gentleman from the State of Georgia, who replied to my 
inquiries concerning his health that he was **as fine as silk but 
not half so well beliked by the ladies." After partaking of 
supper, which meal was served up in the rear of the billiard 
room, al fresco, from a clothless table upon an earthen floor, 
I fell in conversation with Judge Ames, the talented, good- 
hearted but eccentric editor of the San Diego Herald, of whom 
the poet Andrews, in his immortal work. The Coeopa Maid, 
once profanely sang as follows: ^, 

** There w'ff^^lnan whose name was Ames, 
His aims were aims of mystery; 
His story odd, T think, by God, 
Would make a famous history." 

I found the Judge exceedingly agreeable, urbane and well 
informed, and obtained from him much valuable information 
regarding San Diego and its statistics. Snn Diego contains at 
present about 700 inhabitants, two-thirds of whom are "native 
and to the manor born," the remainder a mixture of Ameri- 
can, English, German, Hebrew and Pike County. There are 
seven stores or shops in the village, where anything may be 
obtained, from a fine-toothed comb to a horse-rake, two public 
houses, a Catholic (Church which meets in a private residence, 
and a Protestant ditto, to which the Rev. Reynolds, Chaplain 
of the military post six miles distant, communicates religious 
intelligence every Sunday afternoon. 

San Di'^go is the residence of Don Juan Bandini, whose man- 
sion fronts on one side of the plaza. He is well-known to the 



DANA'S LAST VISIT 246 

early settlers of California as a gentleman of distingiiisbed 
politenesB nnd liospitality. Hin wifp and dau^lilera arp among 
tbe moat braotifiil and Bfcomplialieii ladiea in our State. 

In 1859. Richard Henry Daii« revisited the place he had 
known and written abrnit so charmingly, twenty-three years 
before. lie was deeply touched by reiiewinn his associations 
%vith old scenes. 

As we made the high point off San Die^io, "^'Point Loma." 

he writes, we were greeted by the clieeriug jireseiice of a light- 
house. As we swept around it in the early morning, tliere, be- 
fore ns lay tlu' little harbor of San Diego, its low spit of sand, 




PRESENT APPEARANCE OF HOUSE IN OLD SAN DIEGO 
Where Richard Henry Dana took dinner with R. E. Doyle, in ]ie» 



where the waters run bo deep; the opjiosite flatu where tlie 
Alert grounded in starting for home; the liiw hillK without 
trees, and almost without brush; tbe quiet little beaeh; but the 
chief objeets. the hide-houses, my eye looked for in vain. They 
were gone, all, and left no mark behind. 

I wished to be alone, so t let the other paaaengern go up to 
the town, and was quietly pulled ashore in a boat, and left to 
myself. The reeidleetions and emotiena all were xud, and 
only sad. 

"Fuyit, inlfria fu'lit irrciHiruble tempnu." 

The past was real. The present, all about me. was unreal, 
unnatural, repellant. I saw the big ahija lying in the stream, 
the Alert, the California, the Sana with her Italians; then tbe 
bandsonie Ayacuchu, my favorite; the poor dear old Pilijrim, the 
home of hardship and helplessnesn; the boats passing to and 
fro; the cries of tbe sailors at the capstan or falls; the peo- 
pled beaeh; tbe large hide-houses with their gangH of men; and 
the Kanak.is IntentperHed everywhere. All, all were gonel not 
a vestige left to mark where our hide-house stood. The oven, 



S HISTORY OP SAN DIEGO 

too, waa gone. I searched for its site, and found, where I 
thought it should be, & few broken bricks and bits of mortar. 
I alone was left of all, and bow strangely was I here! What 
changes to met Wliere were they alll Why should I care for 
them — poor Kanakas and sailors, the refuse of civilization, the 
out -laws and beach-eombers of the Pacific t Time and death 
seemed to transfigure them. Doubtless nearly ail were dead; 
but how had they died, and wheret In hoBpitnls, in fever- 
climes, in dens of vice, or falling from the mast, or dropping 
exhausted from the wreck — 




ALFRED C. ROBINSON 

Author of a nouble book on urly Callfomia life. 



with bubbling groan, 

Without a grave, unknelled, uncoffined, and unknown." 

The light-hearted boj-s are now middle-aged men, if the seas, 

rocks, fevers, and the deadlier enemies that beset a. Bailor's 

life on shore bad spared them; and the then strong men have 

bowed themselves, and the earth or sea has cavercd them. 

Even the animals are gone — the colony of dogs, the broods 
of poultry, the useful horses; but the coyotes ntill bark in the 
woods, for they belong oot to man and are not touched by his 
changes. 



OLD MEMORIES 2 

I walked elonl^ up the hill, finding my way aiiuing tlie few 
bushes, for the path was long grown over, and sat down where 
we used to rcHt in carrying our burdens of wood and to look 
out for vessels that might, thotigli so seldom, be coming down 
from the windward. 

To rally myself by calling to mind my own better fortune 
and nobler lot, nnd eheriaheil xiirronndingB at home, was im- 
possible. Borne diiwn by depression, the day being yet noon 
and the sun over the old point — it is four miles to the town, the 
presidio; I have walked it often and can do it once more — I passed 
the familiar objects, and it seemed to me that I remembered 
them better than those of any other place 1 had ever been 




in — the opening of the little cave; the low hills where we cut 
wood and killed rattlesnakes, and where our dogs chased the 
coyotes; and the black ground where so man> of the ship s 
crew and beach-combers used to bring up on their return nt the 
«nd of a liberty day and spend the night sub loie 

The little town of San Diego has undergone no change what 
ever that I can see. It certainly Ims not grown It is still like 
Santa Barbara, a Mexican town. The four principal bouses 
of the geitte de raeon — of the Ban dims hstudilloa, Arguelloa 
and Pieos — ^are the chief houses now, bnt all the gentlemen — 



248 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

and their families, too, I believe, are gone. . . . Fitch 
is long since dead; and I can scarce find a person whom I re- 
member. 1 went into a familiar one-story adobe house, with its 
piazza and earthen floor, inhabited by a respectable fam- 
ily ... by the name of Machado, and inquired if any 
of the family remained, when a bright-eyed, middle-aged wom- 
an recognized me, for she had heard 1 was on board the steam- 
er, and told me she had married a shipmate of mine, Jack Stew- 
art, who went out as second mate the next voyage, but left the 
ship and maiTied and settled here. She said he wished very 
much to see me. In a few minutes he came in, and his sincere 
pleasure in meeting me was extremely grateful. We talked over 
old times as long as I could afford to. I was glad to hear that 
he was sober and doing well. Dona Tomaso Pico I found and 
talked with. 8he was the only person of the old upper-class 
that remained on the spot, if I rightly recollect. T found an 
American family here — Doyle and his wife, nice young peo- 
ple, Doyle agent for the great line of coaches to run to the 
frontier of the old States. 

I must complete my acts of pious remembrance, so I took a 
horse and made a run out to the old mission, where Ben Stim- 
son and I went the first libertv dav we had after we left Bos- 
ton. The buildings are unused and ruinous, and the large gar- 
dens show now onlv wild cactus, willows and a few olive trees. 
A fast run brings me back in time to take leave of the few I 
know and who knew me, and to reach the steamer before she 
sails. A last look — yea, last for life — to the beach, the hills, 
the low point, the distant town, as we round Point Loma and 
the first beams of the light-house strike out towards the setting 
sun. 

It is an interesting fact that in March, 1880, Richard Henry 
Dana, Jr., son of the author of Two Years Before the Mast, 
visited San Diego. 

The impressions of Mrs. Morse, in 1865, are also interesting : 

Oh, the strange foreign look as I stepped from my state- 
room and stood upon the deck as the steamer came to an- 
chor! . . . The hills were brown and barren; not a tree 
or a green thing was to be seen. The only objects to greet the 
sight were the government barracks and two or three houses. 
I said to the Captain in dismay, ^^Is this San Diegof He re- 
plied, * * No, the town is four miles away. ' * 1 saw a merry 
twinkle in his eye, which T afterwards interpreted as mean- 
ing, "Won't the Yankee schoolma'am be surprised when she 
sees the town.'* 

Wild looking horsemen, flourishing their riatas, were coming 
from different directions toward the landing, and the very 
gait of the horses seemed different from anything I had ever 
seen before. There were no wharves at the time. Passengers 
were carried in the ship's boats to shallow water and then car- 
ried on the backs of sailors to the shore. Fortunately for me, 
a little skiff was over from the lighthouse, which saved me 
the humiliating experience meted out to others. 

Once on shore, I was placed with my trunk on a wagon await- 
ing me, and we started for Old Town. The prospect as we 



MRS. MORSE'S IMPRESSIONS 249 

neared the town was not encouraging, but the climax was 
reached when we arrived safely at the plaza. Of all the dilap- 
idated, miserable looking places I had ever seen, this was the 
worst. The buildings were nearly all adobe, one story in 
height, with no chimneys. Some of the roofs were covered 
with tiles and some with earth. One of these adobes, an old 
ruin, stood in the middle of the plaza. It has since been re- 
moved. The Old Tow^n of today is quite a modern town, com- 
pared with the Old Town of 1865. 

I was driven to the hotel, which was to be my future board- 
ing place. It was a frame structure of two stories, since burned. 
The first night of my stay at the hotel a donkey came under 
my window and saluted me with an unearthly bray. I wondered 
if some wild animal had escaped from a menagerie and was 
prowling around Old Town. The fleas were plentiful and hun- 
gry. Mosquitos were also in attendance. The cooking at the 
hotel was quite unlike the cooking at the Hotel del Coronado 
at the present time. I sat at the table alone, being the only 
woman in the house. An Indian boy waitoel on me at the table 
and also gave me the news of the town 




(CHAPTER XI 

ANNALS OF THE CLOSE OF OLD SAN DIEGO 

,N 1850, the first steamship line between San 
Francisco and San Die^o was established, 
touchinj^ at San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San 
Luis Obispo, and Monterey. The first line 
was owned by a San Franciscan named 
Wright. In 1856, he transferred it to the 
California Steam Navigation Company, and 
they soon sold to the Pacific Coast Steamship 
Company. The first steamers were the Ohio, Ooliah, and Fre- 
mont, while the Southerner, Senator, and lliomas Hunt also 
ran at times. In later years the Ancon and Orizaba were the 
regular coastwise steamers. They were all side-wheelers of small 
tonnage. As they approached the wharf at San Diego, it was 
the custom to fire a cannon-shot from the bow, to give notice 
of their arrival. 

The Pacific Mail Steamship Company's steamers from Pan- 
ama also called twnce a month. Among those calling in 1851 
were the Northerner, Tennessee, Antelope, and others. The fare 
from New York to San Francisco was, first class, $330; second 
class, $290; and steerage, $165. 

The coastwise trade opened briskly under American rule. In 
the first number of the Herald, Mr\ 29, 1851, the marine list 
for ten days shows eleven vessels of all classes arrived and ten 
cleared, and the following week four arrived and three cleared. 
In December, traffic was so brisk that the steamer Sea Bird was 
chartered from the Pacific Mail Company, and put on the route 
between San Diego and San Francisco by Captain Haley. 

In 1857 two packets ran regularly to the Sandwich Islands. 
The fare for passengers was $80, and the trip was made in about 
twelve days. 

The first boat of American build regularly used on San Diego 
Bay is believed to have been the one brought here in 1850 by 
Lieutenant Cave J. Couts. It was built for the use of the 
boundary survey expedition under Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, 
and first launched in Lake Michigan. This boat was 16 feet 
long and 5 feet 6 inches wide. It was equip j)ed with wheels on 
which it traveled overland, and was used for crossing rivers on 
the w^ay. At Camp Calhoun, on the California side of the Col- 



FIRST VESSEL BUILT HERE 251 

orado River, late in the year of 1849, Coiits purchased this boat 
and used it for a terry. On his return to San Diego, he brought 
it with him and used it to navigate the waters of San Diego Bay. 

On August 13, IS'il, occurred one of those historically iin|iort- 
ant "first events." The schooner Loma, the first vessel ever 
built on the San Diego Bay, was launched. She was built at 
the shipyard of Captain James Keating, and was christened, as 
the Herald informs us, "in due and ancient form." 

As traffic increased, and as there were neither lighthouse nor 
buoys, it was inevitable that wrecks should occur, although a 




Has. CARSON, (FORMERLY MRS. GEORGE A. PENDLETON) 



storm seldom ruffled the surface of the bay. The first wreck 
at San Diego was that of the pilot boat Fanny, on the night of 
December 24, 1851, She had been out cruising for the North- 
erner, was anchored just outside Ballast Point, and, a gale ris- 
ing, was driven ashore and lost. 

The only other wreck during this period of which there is any 
record waa that of the Golden Gate, Captain Isham, in January, 
1854. This steamer came up from Panama with a large number 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



f^ 1 


1 rok a h ft 1 1 San Die^ro, and came in 


1 1 


1 k >n AWdnrt^tlay the 18th. 


I 


1 I a t 1 lid the i)ass<'n^'ers verj 


ut 


n 1 1 1 es h put to svn anam on the 


t tl 


ia a t Her engine ^'ave out, and. 


t t tt It 


t 1 h n Irivei) ashore on Zuninga 


1 11 oil 


tl 1 1 a i went to her assistance. 


II 1 tl 


11 t n ly the passengers, after 


It ft 


tak ft f ty with the exeeption of 


I Al ( 1 


h k !1 (1 1 fallinji down the steam- 


111 th 


1 1 Tl I K rs were distributed among 


1 -R f 11 


t a i 1 1 le difficulty was experi- 




HOUSE OF JOHN C. STEWART, OLD 1 



enced in providinfr aecomniudiitioiis for them all. One of their 
luimber was the Very Reverend Wm. I. Kip, then on his way 
tl) take charj;e of the new Episcopal bishopric of California. 
The use of the coitrt-hoiiBe was secured for him and he preached 
one sermon while here. The SoiitiifrHer arrived the next day, 
and with the Gotia/i carried the passengers away soon after. 

The steamer Cotiimbia arrived on the 20th and. the storm 
iiliatin^, succeeded after hartl work in puiling the Golden Gale 
safely off the sand-bar. just a week from the day of her arrival. 
She had three feet of water in her hold, but was not badly dam- 
aged, and soon left for San Francisco and arrived there safely. 

In the days of .Mexican nile. the mails were carried twice a 
week between San Diego and San Francisco, on horseback, by 
way of the old "('amino Real," from mission to mission. The 
service was fairl\' well performed, in a leisun^ly way: or. if it 
was not, little complaint was made. In March, 1S47, General 



POOR MAIL SERVICE 253 

Kearny establislii'd, for military piir|iOMes, it seiiii-weL'kly hoi-se- 
iiiail between the same jxtiuts. The ulviihiis jieted as jMistmas- 
ters, and a.s there were no other jHistal fai-ilitifs. it was ordered 
that tlie citizens "be aeenmnuKlated by lmvii)<r their li'tters ant) 
papers sent free of ex|H'nse.'* 

The beKiiininpi tif resinlar niail service were sh>w and itnsat- 
isfnetnry. The semi -month I v Panama steamer carried the mails 
fn>m ISiO. The local service was such as to cause the Htrald 
to complain bitterly. On Keptemln'r 11. ISfd, it declared that 
"diirinfi a period of more than two years then' has been no ri'n- 
ularly appointed postnianter at San Die^o. nor to thoae who have 
acted has there been more than a pittance allowed for the per- 




H0U8E AND STORE OP THOMAS WHALEY, OLD TOWN 



formance of their duty. Sometimes the mails no, and when this 
happens, the.v are taken to the landin<; by some transient con- 
veyance, which admits of no certainty or secnrity in their deliv- 
ery to the proper a^ent for iveeiviny them. We advise the cit- 
izens of San Diefro tJ> place no dependence upon the mails, bnt 
to send their letters throufrh by any other channel." This last 
seatenee doubtless n'ferred to the e.tpress companies, between 
whom and the postoffice department there was considerable riv- 
alry at the time. The same complaints as to insnflficient pay 
and poor service came from all parts of the Pacific coast. 

In Jnne, 18i'>l, the rate of postage on letters was rediiciHl from 
forty cents to six cent». Com|)laints alwnt poor service contin- 
ued and Kditor Ames made a practice of getting his exchanges 
from the pursers i>f the steamei-s. instead of depending upon 
the mails. 



254 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Soon after the United States took possession of the Gadsden 
Purchase, a semi-weekly mail service was put on between San 
Antonio and San Diego, by G. H. Giddings and J. (1 Woods. 
The first mail by this line left San Diego on August 9, 1857, 
carried on pack animals under the care of R. W. Laine, a young 
man of San Diego County. The first overland mail to arrive 
was on the Slst of the same month, under the care of James E. 
Mason, and was the occasion of great rejoicing. It had made 
the unprecedented time of 34 days from San Antonio. 

In September, 1857, the government entered into a contract 
with John Butterfield and his associates for carrying the mails 
between St. Louis and the Pacific Coast, at a cost of $600,000 
a year. The preparations were very elaborate, and the regula- 
tions read curiously at this day. Each passenger on the mail- 
coach was required to provide himself with a Sharp's rifle, 100 
cartridges, a Colt's revolver, belt and holster, knife and sheath, 
a pair of thick boots and woolen pants, underclothing, a soldier's 
overcoat, one pair of woolen blankets, an India rubber blanket, 
and a bag with needles, thread, sponge, brush, comb, soap, and 
towels. The coaches w^ere drawn most of the way by six hoi'ses. 
The sub-contractors were Jennings and Doyle, and in 1859 Dana 
speaks of Doyle as living in San Diego. When the Civil War 
came on, the military posts in Arizona and New Mexico were 
withdrawn and the Southern mail route abandoned. There had 
been much trouble with Indians, especially in Arizona w^th the 
Apaches, and the protection was never adequate. 

In 1865, the overland mail by the Southern route was resumed, 
but it went to Los Angeles by way of Warner's Pass, and thence 
to San Francisco, missing San Diego. In 1867, Major Ben. C. 
Truman was appointed postal agent for California and used his 
influence to have the route changed to run by way of San Diego. 
The contractors, Thompson & Griffith, had been losing money, 
and took advantage of this change to abandon their contract. 
Mr. John G. Caj)ron, who was then living in Tucson and had 
been engaged in the mail route business for some years, driving 
for Jennings & Doyle and others, thereupon went to Washing- 
ton and secured the contract between Los Angeles and El Paso, 
913 miles. He then moved to San Diego, and continued to oper- 
ate this line for seven years, from 1867 to 1874. The portions of 
the route between El Paso and Tucson, and from San Diego to 
Los Angeles, were sublet. Mr. Capron tells many interesting 
stories of his troubles with the Apache Indians in Arizona, but 
the California Indians never gave him much trouble. 

In 1847, a census of San Diego County w^as taken by Captain 
Davis of the Mormon Company, by order of Colonel Stevenson. 
It showed the following: 



CENSUS OF 1850 2 

Population of whites 248 

Tame Indiaas or iieo[ilivtes 483 

Willi Indianx or goiitiles 1550 

Saniiwieh lalanders 3 

NegropB 3 

Total population of county 2287 




The seventh national census, taken in 1850, gave San Diego 
County a population of 798 and the town (including La Playa) 
650,^ — this, of course, not ineludint; Indians. In 1860 the county 
had 4,324 and in 1870, 4,951. 

The first county assessment roll, in 1850, shows the value of 
taxable property to have been: 

Banch lands $255, 2S1 

10 storea with capital of 65,395 

6 vineyards, value not stated 

87 houses 104,302 

6789 head of cattle 93,280 

Total $517,258 



266 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

The aBsessmeiit mil for the city of San Diego gave the foUow- 
iug valuations: 

San Diego (Old Town) *264,210 

New Towu (Gray town, or Davis 'a Folly) 80,050 

Middletown 30,000 

Total $375,260 

In January, 1852, the Herald said there was not a vacant 
house in the town, and that over 200 people had recentl.v arrived. 
In 1853, flour sold at *22 per barrel, pork from 32 to 35 cents, 
barley at 4 cents, rice at 10 cents, sugar from 14 to 20 cents, and 
jwtatocs from 5 to 5V-! cents, per pound. 




OLD TOWN SCHOOL 



By the next year (1854) the town was not so prosperous, and 
a public meeting was held to consider the state of the country, 
at which a proposal to constrnct a good road to Temcimla. for 
the purpose of securing the Mormon trade, was considered. In 
Slay, 1855. eggs sold for 50 cents per dozen and butter at 50 
cents per pound. The best Hour came from San Bernardino and 
was preferred to that from Chilf. The HerahJ comiilnins of a 
want of enterprise and says the town is going down hill. 



SOME EARLY ADVERTISERS 



257 



In 1856, flour was worth $6 per ewt. at the mill, wheat 22y2 
cents per pound, barley 4 cents per pound, and hay $35 per ton. 

In 1859, times were hard and the town dull. The Herald says 
a tailor, shoemaker, watchmaker, and gunsmith are needed, but 
is gratified to learn that "several of our merchants and mechan- 
ics, who intended to leave this place on account of dull times, 
have come to the conclusion to remain a little while longer." 

On May 29, 1851, the following Old Town advertisements 
appeared in the first number of the HernM: 




THE FAMOUS BELLS AT THE OLD TOWN CHURCH 



Marks and Flel 



■Ikt. 



gPIH' 



nf thp 



ExchnnRe llotft an.i RiHinnl Snioon, C. l\ TpbI.etts & Co.. 

Pantoja' Hiiiiso, t'haa. .T. I.atiing, I'Hst Rule of plji/.a; 

Colorado Hoiis^. II. J. Cuutx. \i\o.7.a; 

Frederick J. Painter. M.D,. iilaza. 
Nearly all the flour and frrain used in the eoiiiifry at this 
period was imported, althonph most ranches had small patches 
of corn, beans, and wheat for home consumption. In 18r)3, more 



V 



258 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

grain, principally barley, was raised in the little valley of Viejas 
than in all the rest of the countrj'. It was hauled in to Old 
Town, in Mexican carts, over a wild, broken country, without 
roads a great part of the way. Captain Bogart was not dis- 
couraged by the destruction of his crop of barley by antelope 
and rabbits on North Island in 1852, but persevered and raisod 
good crops at that place, in 1855 and 1856. 

Among the first to practice agriculture successfully were 
Colonel Eddy and Rol)ert Kelly, owners of the Jamacha Rancho, 




LOUIS ROSE 



d by Rose Canyon 



who planted 300 acres to rye, wheat, oats, barley, and potatoes 
in 1852. and made a success of it. 

One of the most interesting ventures of the time was the tan- 
nery of Louis Rose, established in 1853. It was situated in 
Rose's Canyon, about six miles from town and was quite com- 
pletely fitted up. There were 20 bark vats, 2 cisterns with a 
capacity of 500 gallons each, ti lime and water vats, a bark mill, 
an adol)e house for curr,vint,' leather, and several force pumps. 



A MAN OF ENTERPRISE 



259 



The vats had a capacity of from 80 to 100 hides. The head tan- 
ner was Mr. Rose's nephew, N. J. Alexander. Bark was hauled 
8 distance of ten mites and cost $12 to $15 per ton. Hides, of 
course, were plentifnl, and wen' obtained in exchange tor leather 
products. He employed a Mexican workman who made up the 
leather into shoes, botas, and saddles. lie used in one year 3,500 
hides and 1,500 skins of deer, goat, sheep, and sea-liou, and sold 
$8,000 worth of products. It is not easy to determine whether 
the business paid, but Alexander died in 1854, and it was aban- 
doned soon after. 

Mr. Rose was an unusually enterprising man and engaged in 
many undertakings. At one time, he iindertook the manufacture 
of mattresses from sea-weed ; he pnispeeted for coal at the mouth 




HOUSE OF ALBERT B. SMITH. OLD TOWN 



of Rose's Canyon, and thoiiijht he had a deposit of valuable clay. 
He gave considerable attention to coi)per and silver mines in 
San Diego County, and in January, 1858, it was stated that he 
had sold a half interest in these mines for $30,000. At that 
time, there were about 1,000 tons of ore ready to ship. Mr. Rose 
is also remembered as the founder of Roseville. 

One of the most interesting episodes of the early da\-s was the 
work of some Mormons, bent upon the enterprise of mining eoal 
on the north shore of Point Loma, late in 185;"). in response to a 
"revelation." Obtaining a lease of land from the city tmsteea, 
they proceeded to make borings which penetrated several strata 
of coal, ranging from three inches to a foot in thickness. In 
April, 1856, they announced that they had discovered a vein of 
good coal four and a half feet thick near the old light-honse on 



260 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Point Lonia, and Iw^ran to sink ii shaft. Cniisiderahle niaehinery 
was installed ami a few expericnewl miners, as wull as engineers, 
employed, lint nothing came of thi' enterprise. Naturally, it 
excited hiifh hopes while it lasted. 

A i-nrions aftermath of the Garra uprising in 1851 was the 
belated arrival of a party of roiitrh characters from San Pran- 
eiseo in the role of volunteers for the protection of the country 
agaioKt the Indians. At the beginning of the outbreak, the gov- 
ernor had been asked for assistance and had enlisted a large 
company to go to Snn Diego in response to this appeal. Just 
as they were about to sail, the governor was notified that the 
trouble was over, but abont fift>' of the volunteers reftised to 
be (leprivetl of their adventure. They arrived in San Diego in 




LOPEZ HOUSE, OLD TOWN 



Deceniher and went into camp in ^Mission Valley. A variety of 
trouble ensued, until the San Diegans began to fear that their 
deliverers from San Francisco constitntetl a worse menace to the 
public peace than the Indians themselves. Horses were forcibly 
taken from the settlers and rows occurred in the plaza. Philip 
Crosthwaite received an ugly wound, but responded by shooting 
one of the volunteers named Watkins. who lost a leg iu the 
encounter. At last, the roughs chartered a vessel and returned 
to San Francisco, to the great relief of the community. 

Thieving became so common and so annoying in the early days 
of American nde that in 1851 a law was enacted fixing a pen- 
alty of imprisonment from one to ten years, "or by death, in the 
discretion of the jury," for taking property to the value of fifty 
dollars or more. A hard character named James Robinson. 







H 


i$ 




1 


- ■ 


ll 



262 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

familiarly known as " Yankee Jim," suffered the extreme pen- 
alty for stealing the only row-boat in the bay. The verdict of 
the jury was as follows : 

"Your jurors in the within case of James Robinson have the 
honor to return a verdict of 'guilty' and do therefore sentence 
him, James Robinson, to be hanged by the neck until dead. Cave 
J. Couts, foreman of the jury." 

The poor fellow could not believe that he was to be han^red 
until the very last moment. He appeared to think it ail a grim 
joke or, at the worst, a serious effort to impress him with the 
enormity of his evil ways. He was still talking when Deputy 
Sheriff Crosthwaite gave the signal. Then the cart was driven 




from beneath him and he was left dangling in the air. Surely, 
the punishment was far more wicked than the crime, yet the 
example must have proved very effective in discouraging theft. 
There are other instances of frontier justice which, when com- 
pared with the methods of today, show that society has grown 
much kinder with the passing of time. Such testimony as the 
following item from the Herald indicates that there was much 
excuse for rough justice: 



BUILDING THE JAIL 263 

A lot of greasers bad a baitr the utiier eveniUK. niid aa tliat 
was not enough for une night, tlu'.v turned to and atonoil a jioiir 
Indian, brIoDging to Mrs. Marron, until hp quietly laid down 
and died. TbiB is roneidered fine apart, and as our magistrates 
don 't trouble about sneh little matters, it will probably be re- 
peated on tbe next occasion, with (lerhapy alight variation. 

And here 13 a gruesome memory of the fierce old times related 
by Mrs. Carson : 

One day 1 stood at the eorner of tbe old Franklin House and 
saw one man shoot another, and I was the only witness. Just 
aa I was going to tell about it, Mr. Pendleton, who came up 




JOSE ANTONIO SERRANO 
It Spanish funily. He eervrd undt 



and saw that I had seen what had occurred, gave me a wink 
and I stopped myself in time. I did not know, then, why he 
wanted me to keep quiet, but I did so. He explained after- 
wards that he thought it would be unpleasant for me to have 
to be a witness. This was in January or February, 1865, and 
before we were marritd. 

The storj' of the building of tbo cobblestone jail at Old Town 
8 one of the most interesting in the annals of San Diego. It 



264 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

was one of the first things undertaken when the Americans came 
into possession of the city government. The contract was let 
for $5,000 to Agostin Haraszthy, who was city marshal and sher- 
iff at the time and whose father was president of the city coun- 
cil. The bid of Israel Brothers, $2,000 lower, was rejected. The 
cobbles were laid in ordinary mortar, without cement, and the 
building was seriously damaged by a heavy rain while in the 
course of construction. The contractor demanded a further 
allowance or relief from his contract, and they allowed him 
$2,000 more, making $7,000 in all. It soon appeared that there 
was not enough money in the treasury to complete the payment, 
whereupon city scrip was issued for the balance, in denomina- 
tions of $100. It read as follows : 

No. 45, $100. 

San Diego, March 28, IS.')!. 
To the treasurer of the City of San Diego: Please pay to 
Agostin Haraszthy or bearer, the sum of one hundred dollars 
out of the General Fund, with interest at 8 per cent, per month, 
until advertised for payment — on account of contract for build- 
ing jail. 

By authority of an Ordinance of the Common Council ap- 
proved March'^28, 1851. 

G. P. Tebbetts. 

Treasurer of the Common Council. 
A. J. Matsell, 

Clerk of the Common Council. 

But little of this scrip was ever paid, thou^rh some of it was 
exchanged for city lands. In 1858, the town trustees resigned 
in a bodv in order to defeat a suit which had been begun to 
enforce payment of this and other serij). This unusual course 
seems to have been justified by the wretched job which had been 
foisted upon the town. The jail was practically worthless, and 
the very first prisoner sent there promptly dug his way out. It 
still stands as a picturesque reminder of old times. It is within 
the enclosure of an old Indian. Rafael Mamudes, and is often 
visited by a cLiss of people who do not ordinarily hunger to see 
the inside of a jail, and would not in this case save for his- 
toric interest and the easy exit afforded. The only prisoner ever 
successfully confined within the walls is a fine pepper tree, cheer- 
fully growing in one of the cells. 

The cobblestone jail was succeeded by an iron cage, 5'7"x8'6", 
with a height of 7'. It had a wood roof and floor and was lined 
with sheet iron. It is now in use as a city jail, at Coronado 
Tent City. While not imposing in appearance, it has the merit 
of holding the bad men consigned to it. 

The end of Old Town as a community of any importance was 
the great fire of April 20, 1872. It began in Mrs. Schiller's 



THE ANCIENT CANNON 265 

kitchen, spread to the Gila, Franklin and Colorado houses and 
consumed all the business places on the plaza. This disastrous 
event turned the scale in favor of the vigorous young commu- 
nity which was growing up on Horton's addition. 

The most elo(iuent reminders of the time that is gone are the 
two old cannon, one lying on the plaza at Old Town, the other 
treasured by the San Diego Chamber of Commerce. Both be- 
longed to the Spanish fort on Ballast Point and were removed 
to Old Town in 1838. The one which lies in the plaza long stood 
upright in the earth and was irreverently used as a hitching post 
for horses and a whipping-post for naughty Indians. The 
bronze gun, ^*E1 Jupiter/' now in the Chamber of Commerce, 
w^as cast at Manila in 1783. These ancient cannon did duty 
under three fiags and typify the history of San Diego. If their 
iron lips could speak the language of human tongues, they could 
tell the whole storv of the Plymouth of the West, with its varv- 
ing fortunes under the dominion of Spaniard, Mexican and 
American. 




CHAPTER XII 



AMERICAN FAMILIES OF THE EARLY TIME 

T WILL now be in order to ^ive some account 
of the early American settlers of San Diego, 
before proceeding to tell the story of the new 
city. A few w^ho came before^ the Mexican 
War have already been sketched and the 
Spanish families are grouped in Chapter VI, 
Part II. Some of the names appearing in this 
chapter may be strange to the present gener- 
ation, though familiar to older settlers. The necessity of com- 
pressing this histor}' into one volume of moderate size renders 
it impossible to do full justice to all these pioneers. The most 
essential facts have been condensed and arranged with a view 
to giving as much information as possible concerning them, in 
a brief and impartial manner. 

AMES, Julian. Was a sailor from Amesbury, Mass., and 
said to have been an uncle of the well known Oakes Ames. He 
married, in Lower California, a lady named Espinosa. lie was 
an otter hunter in 1846. and served as a volunteer in the Mex- 
ican War. He held some offices at an early day, including that 
of city trustee in 1853 and 1855. About 1859 or 1860. he set- 
tled on El Cajon ranch, where he died in February, 1866. His 
children were: Francisco, who lives in Lower California; Sam, 
who married Adelaide, a daughter of Jose Antonio Serrano, and 
lives in Lower California; Jose, who married Maria, daughter 
of Jose Machado, and lived and died at Lakeside; Mary, who 
married James Flynn ; and Nievas, who married Charles Green- 
leaf, of Lakeside. 

BEAN, Joshua II. Settled in San Diego during the military 
occupation and was a prominent citizen. He served as alcalde 
in 1850 and as mayor in the same year, being the last alcalde 
and the first mayor of San Diego. While mayor, he signed the 
deed for the ' ' Middletow^n Addition, ' ' May 27, 1850. He removed 
to Los Angeles in 1851, and at the time of the Garra Insurrec- 
tion was major-general of State Militia and came to San Diego 
to preside over the courtmartial. lie kept a store at San Gabriel 
and was a prominent citizen of Southern California. He was 
killed, in November, 1852, by Mexican ruffians, near Los Angeles. 



JUDGE THOMAS H. BUSH 267 

BOGART, Captain J. C. Captain Bogart was one of the earli- 
est visitors, touching here in 1834, in the ship Black Warrior. 
In 1852 he became the agent of the Pacific Mail Steamship Com- 
pany at La Playa, with headquarters on the hulk Clarissa 
Andrews, and held the position many years. lie represented the 
county in the State Senate in 1862-3, and was actively connected 
with the San Diego & Gila Railroad project. He was unmar- 
ried. In 1873 he revisited San Diego and gave some interesting 
reminiscences. 

BUSH, Thomas Henry. Judge Bush was born in Pennsyl- 
vania, June 8, 1831, and came to California in 1853. He learned 
the bookbinder \s trade, which he followed in San Francisco, and 
also engaged in mining and kept a store in Low^er California. 
He came to San Diego in 1865, where at first he kept a store, 
and in 1868 became postmaster. In the same year he was 
appointed county .judge to fill the unexpired term of Julio Osufia, 
and held the office eight years. He was also school trustee and 
city trustee; in the latter capacity, he was instrumental in sell- 
ing the city lands to Ilorton, and signed the deed. From 1878 
to 1887, he was absent from San Diego, prospecting and visiting 
in his native state. In his later days, he engaged in the real 
estate business, was a notary, and secretary of the San Diego 
Society of Pioneers. He died December 17. 1898. 

He married Pollen Augusta Porter. They had one daughter, 
Bertha, born in San Francisco in 1863. Miss Porter was an 
early teacher at Old Town. 

Judge Bush was not a lawyer, and might, perhaps, have made 
a more satisfactory record as a judge had he been one. At the 
time of the agitation for the removal of the county seat from 
Old Town to Ilorton 's Addition, he showed decided bias in favor 
of the Old Town faction, and the people of New San Diego 
always remembered it. 

CASSIDY, Andrew. A native of County Cavan, Ireland. He 
came to America when 17 and was employed three years at West 
Point, in the Engineering Corps, under General George B. 
McClellan. He then went to Washington and entered the employ 
of the Coast Survev Office, under Professor Bache. About a vear 
later, he was one of a party sent to the Pacific Coast under 
Lieutenant W. T. Trowbridge. They reached San Francisco in 
July, 1853, and a month later came to San Diego, established 
a tidal gauge at La Playa, and left Cassidy in charge. He 
remained in charge of this tidal gauge, and of meteorological 
observations, for seventeen years, and also gave considerable 
attention to collecting specimens for the Smithsonian Institution. 

In 1864, Mr. Cassidy became owner of the Soledad Rancho, 
containing 1,000 acres, w^here the tow^n of Sorrento is situated, 



268 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

and engaged in the live stock business until in 1887, when he 
sold the property. lie is also a property owner in San Diego. 

His first wife was Rosa Serrano, daughter of Jose Antonio 
Serrano, who died September 10, 1869. He married, second, 
Mary Smith, daughter of Albert B. Smith, who is now deceased. 
They had one daughter, Mary Winifred. ^Ir. Cassidy is still 
living, a respected citizen of San Diego. He held several public 
offices at an early day. He was a member of the Board of Pub- 
lic Works as late as his 88th vear. 

« 

CLAYTON, Henry. Came to San Diego with the boundary 
commission as a surveyor. He married the widow of Captain 
Joseph F. Snook (Maria Antonia Alvarado de Snook). They 
are both deceased and left no children. Clayton held the office 
of city surveyor for a short time in 1850, and was the first county 
surveyor, serv^ing for several terms in the 50 's and 60 's. 

CONNORS, James W. A soldier who came to San Diego with 
Magruder's Battalion in 1850. He married Harriet Vandergrift, 
sister of Richard Kerren's wife. He was deputy sheriff seven 
years under James McCoy and still lives in Coronado. His son, 
George A. Connors, married Isabel Smith, daughter of A. B. 
Smith. She is now deceased; he is still living; they had three 
children : James W. Connors. Jr., married Helen Minter and 
lives in Old Town. Has four children. William E. Connors, 
married first, a Minter, who died ; married second, Dolores Alva- 
rado. Has one child, living at Whittier; employed at reform 
school. Paul S. Connoi*s, married Mary N. Stewart, daughter 
of John C. Stewart. Lives at Old Town. Is night watchman 
at the court house, San Diego; has been postmaster at Old Town, 
where he keeps a store. Has two children living, one dead. 
Ilattie Connors, married Ben Lyons; lives at Coronado. Sarah 
Connors, married first. Dr. Edward Burr; second, Angelo 
Smith. Dead. ^lary J. Connors, died in a Los Angeles school. 
Unmarried. 

COUTS, Cave Johnson. Born near Springfield, Tennessee, 
November 11, 1821. His uncle. Cave Johnson, was Secretary of 
the Treasury under President Polk, and had him appointed to 
West Point, where he graduated in 1843. He serv^ed on the fron- 
tier until after the Mexican War, and was then at Los Angeles, 
San Luis Rey, and San Diego from 1848 to 1851. In 1849 he 
conducted the Whipple expedition to the Colorado River. 

On April 5, 1851, he married Ysidora Bandini, daughter 
of Juan Bandini, of San Diego. In October of the same 
year he resigned from the army, and was soon after appointed 
colonel and aid-de-camp on the staff of Governor Bigler. 
In the Garra insurrection he served as adjutant, and at 
the courtmartial was judge-advocate. He was a member 
of the first grand jury September, 1850, and county judge 



CAREER OF CAVE J. COUTS 269 

in 1854. In 1853 he removed to a tract known as the Gau- 
jome grant, a wedding gift to his wife from her brother-in- 
law, Abel Stearns. Having been appointed snb-agent for the 
San Luis Rey Indians, Colonel Couts was able to secure all the 
cheap labor needed for the improvement of his property. His 
business affairs were managed with skill and military precision, 
and he became one of the wealthiest men in Southern Califor- 
nia. He purchased the San Marcos, Buena Vista, and La Jolla 
ranchos, and also government land, amounting in all to about 
20,000 acres. His home was widely celebrated for its hospital- 
ity. He entertained Helen Hunt Jackson while she w^as collect- 
ing materials for Ramona, and part of the story is supposed to 
be laid at the Gaujome rancho. As Colonel Couts 's wealth con- 
sisted largely of cattle, the passage of the ^*no fence" law^ was 
a severe blow to him, and one from which he never fully recov- 
ered. He died at the Ilorton House, in San Diego, June 10, 
1874. He was over six feet tall, perfectly straight, and weighed 
165 pounds. He was a man of good education, strict integrity, 
and gentlemanly mannei*s. His widow continued to live on the 
rancho and manage it until her death. 

Their children were ten, of whom nine lived to maturity: 
Abel Stearns, who died in 1855, aged nearlv four vears; Maria 
Antonia, who was married to Chalmers Scott, and still lives in 
San Diego; William Bandini, who married Christina, daughter 
of Salvador Estudillo, and is a farmer living near San Marcos; 
Ysidora Forster, who wns married to W. D. Gray; Elena, mar- 
ried to Parker Dear and lived severnl yeai's on the Santa Rosa 
rancho; Robert Lee; John Forster; and Caroline*. 

COUTS, William B. Brother of Cave J. Couts, married a 
daughter of Santiago E. Argiiello. He was county clerk and 
recorder in 1855-6-7-8, postmaster in 1858, justice of the peace 
in 1861, etc. In 1857 he seems to have held nearlv all the countv 
offices at one time, if credit is to be given the Herald of April 
27th in that year. His son, George A. Couts, is a San Diego 
city policeman. 

CROSTHWAITE, Philip. Was born December 27, 1825, in 
Athy, County Kildare, Ireland, where his parents were visiting 
their old home, they having emigrated to the United States some 
years before. On their return to America, Philip was left in the 
care of his grandparents, and lived with them until IG, when 
he visited his mother. In 1843 he returned to Ireland to com- 
plete his education, and entered Trinity College. Dublin. His 
grandmother died in 1845 and he thereupon came to America 
for a second visit, intending to return and complete his educa- 
tion. But while in Philadelphia, he met a young man from Bos- 
ton with w^hom he struck up an acquaintance, and for a *'lark'' 
these two determined to take a short sea voyage. Going to New- 



270 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

port, R. I., they shipped on board the schooner Hopewell, Cap- 
tain Littlefield, supposing they were bound on a fishing trip to 
the Newfoundland banks. To their dismay, after reaching the 
open sea, they found the ship was booked for San Francisco. 
They begged so hard to be put ashore that the captain finally 
promised to allow them to return by the first ship they met ; but 
Crosthwaite related it as a singular circumstance that they never 
saw another sail from that day until they reached the Bay of 
San Diego. 

Crosthwaite and his friend, Rhead, deserted here and waited 
until the Hopewell had departed. A ship bound for the East 
came along soon after, but there was room for only one; there 
was a toss-up for the vacant berth, and Crosthwaite losing, he 
gave up all thought of leaving San Diego. He was strong and 
adventurous and made his way. In 1846, when the Mexican War 
broke out, he was on an otter hunting expedition on the Lower 
California coast, with Julian Amos, John Post, John C. Stew- 
art, and William Curley. LeHrning of the war at the Santa 
Rosario Mission, they all returned to San Diego and served in 
the San Pasqual campaign. They reached the town late at night, 
and early the next morning were awakened by a thundering 
knock at the door. It was Captain Gillespie, who said: ** There 
can be no neutrals in this countrv; vou must either enlist for 
three months (as the war will probably be over bv that time), 
or be imprisoned on the Congress/' He intended to enlist, any- 
way, but the choice wa,s made easy. A good deal of the local 
color concerning the San Pasqual campaign has been derived 
from his accounts of it. He was in the midst of it from begin- 
ning to end, and was slightly wounded by Pico's rangers in the 
slaughter of December 6th. After the troops left for the capture 
of Los Angeles, he performed garrison duty until the close of 
the war. 

In 1851, Crosthwaite served in the Garra Insurrection, with 
the rank of third sergeant. After these troubles, he was the 
mainstay of the citizens in preserving the peace, at the time 
when the San Francisco ** Hounds" were terrorizing the town, 
and was seriously wounded in the discharge of his duty, as has 
been related. 

He held a number of offices at an early day, being the first 
county treasurer, deputy sheriff several years, and sheriff one 
or two terms. He was also school commissioner in 1850, county 
clerk and recorder in 1853-4, and justice of the peace in 1854. 
He lived for several years in Mission Valley, al)ove Old Town, 
and later owned the San Miguel Rancho in Lower California. 
He was lessee of the San Diego Mission in 1848, and later went 
to the mines. He also kept a store in Old Town, and later in 



272 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

new Han Diegro, in partnership with Mr. Whaley. His old ledger, 
kept in 1853, is now owned b\' Mr. Joseph Jessop, and shows 
many curious things. The first entry in it shows the sale of over 
$200 worth of provisions to Lieutenant Derby, for the use of 
the Indians working on the San Diego River dam. The prices 
charged are also very interesting, now. 

He purchased the San ^liguel Rancho in 1861 and removed to 
Lower California, hut still spent much of his time in San Diego. 
He was an active and earnest Freemason, and the first Worehip- 
ful Master of San Diego Lodge \o. 35 — the oldest lodge in the 
Southwest. When Lieutenant Derby left San Diego, he pre- 
sented Crosthwaite with the Past blaster's jewel, which the lat- 
ter later gave to his beloved lodge, and which is now a cherished 
item of their furniture. 

He married Josef a Lopez, a daughter of Bonifacio Lopez, of 
San Diego, 1848. They had a large family, of which seven sons 
and two daughters sur\Mved him. His daughter Mary was mar- 
ried to J. N. Brisefio, of San Diego, but the others live in Lower 
California. He died in San Diego, February 19, 1903. Mrs. 
Wm. Jeff Gatewood was his sister. It is said he had nearlv fiftv 
grandchildren at the time of his death. 

Crosthwaite was a well built man, with a full beard and a 
remarkably deep voice. It is related that an uncle by marriage, 
Mr. Hempstead, stopping off at La Playa on his way to San 
Francisco in the 50 's, recognized him by his voice, though he had 
not seen him for vears. He was known to be an utterlv fearless 
man, whose courage was proved in many hard encounters. 
He was a man of strong character and had enemies as well as 
friends. Part of these troubles were due to religious differences, 
he being an Episcopalian and his wife a Catholic. He was fond 
of telling his recollections of early days and his stories were not 
always accurate or free from prejudice. He was fond of a joke, 
and it has been said that he carried this propensity into his 
tales of old times; but a careful studv of them shows clearlv 
enough that the inaccuracies and discrepancies are no more than 
was natural with one who talks a good deal and whose memory 
is not remarkable for its accuracy. That Crosthwaite had some 
faults is doubtless true, but he was beyond question a strong, res- 
olute man, well fitted for the rough life of his time. 

CTJRLEY, William. Was an otter hunter with Crosthwaite 
and othei^s, in 1846. Served as a volunteer in the Mexican 
War. He was an elector at San Diego, April 1, 1850. Mar 
ried Ramona Alipas, daughter of Damasio and Juana Machado 
de Alipas (later the wife of Thomas Wrightington), in 1844. 
He was drowned in December, 1856, on the beach near Point 
Loma, while out otter hunting with an Indian. His widow after- 
ward married William Williams, and moved to Los Angeles. 



FERRELL QUITS THE COUNTRY 273 

DARNELL (or Darnall), Thomas R. Kept a store in San 
Diego in the early 50 's; his store was robbed in February, 1856. 
In the following March he was chosen city trustee. He was an 
organizer of the San Diego & Gila Railroad Company. He was 
unmarried. Was Worshipful Master of the ^L'lsonic Lodge in 
1858. He left San Diego soon after the latter year. 

ENS WORTH, A. S. 'Squire Ensworth came to San Diego 
as a teamster in government employ. He was elected justice of 
the peace in 1856 and assemblyman in 1859. He was a **self- 
made man/' who studied law after being elected justice, and 
later engaged in the practice of law, with considerable success. 
He was quite a reader and had a large library, for the times. 
He died in a hospital at Los Angeles. 

FERRELL, W^illiam C. This pioneer came from North Caro- 
lina, where he had two daughters living. He settled at San 
Diego about 1850, and at the first election, held in that year, was 
chosen district attorney. He was a lawyer of ability and a use- 
ful member of the community, lie was one of the founders of 
new San Diego, with Davis and othei-s. In 1852 he was appointed 
collector of the port and served one year. In 1854 he was asses- 
sor and school commissioner, and, the following year, served as 
assembl>nnan. In 1858 he was a city trustee, and in 1859 dis- 
trict attorney again. In December of the last named year, he 
went to Reventadero, near Descanso, Lower California, where 
he lived the life of a recluse until his death. The reason for this 
action is somewhat obscure, but the traditional reason is at least 
plausible. It is said that, being a somewhat testy man and hav- 
ing set his heart upon winning a certain case, it was decided 
against him; whereupon, he became enraged, banged his books 
down upon the table, and declared that, since he could not get 
justice in this country, he would quit it, and proceeded to do so. 
There is evidence that he left in haste a document on file in 
the county clerk's ofTHce containing directions for the settlement 
of a number of small accoiuits, for the disposal of his personal 
effects, etc. His San Diego friends kept him supplied with read- 
ing, and when they visited him, found him always well informed 
and, apparently, happy. The newspapers of the time contain 
many references to Ferrell, how he watched over San Diego from 
his mountain fastness, etc. He died June 8, 1883. 

FRANKLIN, Lewis A. Came to San Diego in the summer of 
1851, with George H. Davis, in a trading vessel from San Fran- 
cisco. They decided to remain, and their San Francisco repre- 
sentative, Thomas Whaley, followed in October, and he and 
Franklin opened the Tienda California (California Store). This 
partnership was dissolved in April, 1852, Franklin retiring. 



274 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

In 1851, he served in the Garra campaign, as a second lieuten- 
ant. With his brother Maurice, he built the Franklin House, 
which was long a prominent landmark. He also practiced law 
in the 50*8. 

FITCH, Henry D. Captain Fitch was a native of New Bed- 
ford, Mass. In 1826-30, he was master of the Mexican brig 
Maria Ester, calling at California ports. In 1827 he announced 
his intention of becoming a Mexican citizen and was naturalized 
in 1833. He was baptized at San Diego in 1829 as Enrique 
Domingo Fitch. His elopement with Senorita Josefa Carrillo is 
related elsewhere. In 1830-31 he was master of the Leonor and 
brought 50 Mexican convicts to San Diego, where 23 of them 
remained. lie kept a general store in Old Town for many years 
and in 1845 this was the only store in the place ; there had been 
some other small shops previously. He bought and sold hides, 
tallow, and furs, outfitted otter hunters, and made trading voy- 
ages along the coast. At different times he was a partner of 
Stearns, McKinley, Temple and Paty. He was San Diego's first 
syndico, in 1835, and held other jHiblic offices. In 1845, he made 
the first survey and map of the pueblo lands. In 1841 he received 
a grant of the Sotoyomi Rancho, in Sonoma County, and began 
to develop his interests there. He died in San Diego in 1849, 
and was the last person buried on l^residio Hill. The family 
removed to the ranch near Healdsburg soon after his death, and 
continue to reside there. Fitch Mountain, in Sonoma County, 
was named for him. Mrs. Fitch died at the age of 82, having 
kept her faculties remarkably to the end. 

Their children were eleven in number, as follows: Henry E., 
born in 1830; Fred., 1832; William, 1834; Joseph, 1836; Josefa. 
1837; John B., 1839; Isabella, 1840; Charles, 1842; Michael, 
1844; Maria Antonia Natalia, 1845; and Anita, 1848. 

The estimates of his character vary somewhat, but are mostly 
favorable. Dana hints that he was coarse, and perhaps he was 
somewhat so, according to that young man s standards; old sea 
captains were not then noted for their polish. The testimony is 
clear however, that he was an honorable, popular, and influential 
man and a useful citizen. 

FORSTER, John. Often called Don Juan Foi-ster, was born 
in England in 1815. He came to Gnaymas in 1831 and two years 
later to California, settling at Los Angeles. In 1844 he removed 
to San Juan Capistrano and purchased the ex-mission lands 
there, where he lived for twenty years. In 1845 he was grantee 
of the National Rancho. In 1864, having sold the latter place, 
he bonght the Santa Margarita Rancho from Pio Pico and spent 
his remaining days there. He was for many years a man of 
great wealth and lived and entertained in generous style ; but in 
later years his affairs became involved and he died compara- 



LIEUT. ANDREW B. GRAY 



275 



lively poor. He had not niiieh liking for politics, but gave con- 
siderable attention to a number of colonization schemes, none of 
which he was able to carry to a successful conchision. lie died 
February 20, 1882. lie was a useful and highly respected 
citizen. 

In 1837, he married Isadora I*ieo, sister of Pio and Andres 
Pico. They had six children, some of whom are still living in 
San Diego County. 

OITCIIELL, J. R. One of the ablest of early lawyers. Was 
the first attorney of the San Diego & liila Railroad, and drew 
its charter. lie was district attorney iu 1856-7-8, and was a 
prominent member of the JIasonie order. He left San Diego 
and settled in Ix>s Aujreles. 




'squire" ensworth 



(jRAY, Andrew B. In addition to his service on the boundary 
commission, Lieutenant Oraj' was one of the founders of new 
San Diego, and probably the original initiator of the project. 
He was a surveyor of more than ordinary ability, and made a 
survey for the old Southern Pacific Railroad on the 32d parallel 
in 1854, as far as the Colorado River; from that point, he made 
only a reconnaissance into San Diego, but it was sufficient to 
demonstrate the feasibility of the route. His report was pub- 
lished in 1856, and is a very valuable document. During the 
Civil War, he became a major-general in the Confederate Army, 

GROOM. Robert W. Was a competent surveyor and a roan 



276 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

of good sense and high standing. He filled the office of county 
surveyor in 1856, 1859, 1861-2-3, and was assemblyman in 1858 
and 1860. lie then went to Arizona. 

HAYS, John. P^irst county judge of San Diego County, and 
county treasurer in 1853. He came from Texas, where he had 
been an actor in the early troubles. His farm and fish-pond on 
Point Loma are described by Lieutenant Derby. He died May 
24, 1857, having broken his neck by walking over a steep bank 
while on his way home, at night. 

He w^as an elector in 1850, and a director of the San Diego 
& G\\'t\ Railroad from its organization in November, 1854. 

HOFFMAN, Dr. David B. This name first appears on the 
records on December 1, 1855, and in that and the following years 
he served as coroner. He was admitted to practice law, April 1, 
1856, and in 1859, 1860, and 1861, served as district attorney. 
In 1857 he was town trustee, in 1862 assemblyman, in 1865 school 
trustee, and in 1868 Democratic presidential elector for Cali- 
fornia. He was collector of the port from 1869 to 1872, and 
also acted as tidal ganger. His wife's name was ]\Iaria Dolores, 
daughter of Peter Wilder and Guadalupe Machado, who died 
August 12, 1887. He died in 1888, leaving a son named Chaun- 
c«3y, also a daughter, ^liss Virginia Hoffman. He was a good 
physician and a much respected citizen. 

ISRAEL, Captain Robert D. Is one of the few **real pio- 
neers'' still living. He is a native of Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. 
Served in the Mexican War, in the Second Division, in the Rifles, 
and saw much hard service. Immediately after being mustered 
out, in 1848, he came to San Diego. He lived at Old Town sev- 
eral years, engaged in blacksmithing, keeping a saloon, and doing 
contracting with his brother, Jaseph H. Israel. He became 
keeper of the lighthouse on June 14, 1871, and served until Jan- 
uary 6, 1892. He was orderly sergeant in the Garra campaign 
and in charge of the firing squad which executed that brave man. 
He served as policeman and jailor in the early 50 's, in 1858 was 
justice of the peace, and in 1865 school trustee. He married 
Maria Arcadia Alipas, daughter of Damasio and Juana Machado 
de Alipas, Their children are: Henry C, Joseph P. (died 
young), Robert L., and Joseph P., second. Since 1895 he has 
lived in Coronado. His memory is clear and his stories of early 
days most interesting and valuable. 

JOHXSOX, Captain Cleorge A. Captain Johnson is one of 
the best remembered of old San Diegans. He owned the Penas- 
quitas Rancho and was a large rancher and cattle raiser, and 
also largely interested in the Colorado Steam Navigation Com- 
pany. He served as assemblvman for San Diesro Countv in 1863 
and 1867. 



GEORGE LYONS AND FAMILY 277 

KELLY, Robert. A native of the Isle of Man, where he was 
b«>rn in 1825. Came to America while young and lived in New 
York and New Orleans. In 1850 he came west to the Colorado 
River and built a ferry-boat for the use of the government engi- 
neers. It was made of cottonwood timber, sawed by hand, lie 
soon after came to San Diego and helped build the Davis wharf, 
in 1850-1. In 1852 he became, with Colonel Eddy, the owner 
of the Jamacha grant. They raised rye, wheat, oats, barley, and 
potatoes on 300 acres, and this was among the earliest success- 
ful agriculture in San Diego County. In 1857 he sold his ranch 
and engaged in mercantile business with Frank Ames at Old 
Town. In 1860 he again engaged in cattle raising with F. Ilin- 
ton, on the Agua ITedionda Rancho, and later became sole owner 
of the rancho and made it his home. lie served as jiicz dc paz. 
In 1856 he was attacked by bandits and seriously wounded. He 
owned considerable real estate in new San Diego and was an 
enterprising and jmblic spirited citizen. lie was never married 
Mr. Charles Kelly, at present a member of the common council 
of San Diego, is his nephew. 

KURTZ, Daniel Brown. Mr. Kurtz was the second mayor 
of San Diego, succeeding General Bean in 1851. He was 
born in Pennsylvania in 1819, and came to San Diego in June, 
1850 ; studied law under J. R. Gitchell and was admitted to prac- 
tice in 1856. He was state senator in 1852 and 1855, county 
judge in 1855-6, but resigned in the latter year; assemblyman in 
186i and 1865-6, and ])resident of the town trustees in 1862. He 
was appointed brigadier-general of State Militia by the governor 
in July, 1856. Was a director of the old San Diego & Gila Rail- 
road in October, 1855. He was a carpenter and did considerable 
contracting at Old Town and elsewhere. He removed to San 
Luis Rey in 1866, and resided there until his death, which 
occurred' March 30, 1898. 

LYONS, George. A native of Donegal, Ireland, who came to 
San Diego in 1847. He had been carpenter on board a whaler 
on the Northwest coast. He kept a store in Old Town from 1851 
to 1858. In the latter year he was elected sheriff and served two 
terms, until 1862, when he was succeeded by James McCoy. 
He was city trustee and postmaster in 1853-4, trustee again in 
1855, etc. He was also a director of the San Diego & Gila Rail- 
road from its organization in 1854. 

In 1850, he married Bernarda Billar, daughter of Lieutenant 
Billar, at one time commandant of the San Diego Presidio. 
They had ten children, seven sons and three daughters. Their 
eldest son, William J. Lyons, married Sarah Ames. He was asso- 
ciated with H. A. Howard in the real estate business in boom 
days, and the Sonvenir, published by the firm of Howard & 



278 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



Lyons, consisting of advertisements written for them by Thomas 
L. Fitch, is famous. lie has also been largely interested in min- 
ing in the Alamo district, Lower Califoniia. His daughter, Mary 
Dolores, was married to J. B. Hinton. She is now deceased. 
They had no children. 

Son, Benj. Lyons, married Hattie Connors, daughter of Jas. 
W. Connors. They live at Corouado and have three children 

Georpe Lyons is one of the best known of the few a 
of the days before the 50'3. 




D. B. KURTZ 



MAXNASSE, Joseph S. A native of Prussia, who came to 
San Diego in 18.53 and opened a store. He began with small 
capital, but prospered and soon became a large dealer. In 1856 
he formed a partnership with .Marcns Schiller, which continued 
many years. In 18f>8 the finn started a lumber yard at the foot 
of Atlantic and E Streets, and soon after bought and stocked 
the Encinitos Rancho. They built up a large business, but suf- 
fered severely in the drought and hard times and the early 70's, 



ACCOUNT OF JAMES McCOY 



279 



also in the great fire at Old Tdwn in April, 1872. The.v laid out 
aod sold Mannasse & Schiller's Addition, one of the earliest addi- 
tions after Horton came. In later years, Mr. Maimasse's prin- 
cipal business was that of broker and collector. He was a public 
spirited citizen; served as city tnistee two or three terms, and 
was president of that bod,v when ITorfon made his purchase, bnt 
did not sign the deed. On acconnt of his small stature he was 
called Mannasse Chico, or Mannasito. 

He married Hannah Hchitier. a sister of his partner. They 
had one daughter. Ciiita .Mannasse. Mr. .Mnnnas-se died Decem- 
ber 26. 1897. 




JAMES MCCOV 



San Diero. filling varioui officn 



McCOY, James. A native of Conntv Antrim. Ireland, iKirn 
August 12, 1821. Came to America in 1842. and in 184!) became 
a member of ilagnider's Batter.v. and aeeoiripanicd it to San 
Diego. He was stationed at San Lnis Rev, with a small s()uad. 
for over two years, and had some e.xperience in Indian warfare. 
In 1859 he was elected county as-si-s-sor and in 1861 sheriff. To 
the latter office he was re-eleeted live times and ser\'ed until 1871, 
when he l>eeame state senator. He was a city tnistee for four- 
teen years aiid took an active part in the public movements of 
his day. 

In 1868, he married Winifred Kearny, who survived him. 
She is now Mrs. F. D. Murtha. They had no children. 

Mr. McCoy was a man of strong personality. He had his 
friends, also some bitter enemies. While city tnistee he was 



280 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

deeply involved, with Charles P. Taggart aud others, in the tide 
lands speculation, over which a political controversy raged. The 
**tide landers" won at the polls, but the courts finally decided 
that the city had no title to the tide lands. Mr. McCoy was a 
man of considerable ability and a stanch friend of Old Town. 
MINTER, John. According to the Herald, this man was 
attacked by an Indian and seriously cut in the left arm, in Aug- 
ust, 1857. He married Serafina Wrightington, daughter of 
Thomas Wrightington, and they had a family of six children. 
He died several years ago. Had two daughters, one of whom, 
Ellen L., married Jas. W. Connors, Jr., and the other married 
his brother, William. 

MOON, William H. A Georgian who settled at San Diego in 
1849. He was an elector April 1, 1850, and a member of the first 
grand jury in September of that year. The records show that 
he was a justice of the peace and ex officio associate justice of 
the court of sessions, in 1850-1. He was a quaint character. He 
died February 3, 1859. lie is the "Squire" to whom Derby 
refers, who 

**Goes 'round a-walkin' 
And sasses all respectable persons 
With his talk of pills he's invented 
To give a spirit of resentment." 

MORSE, Ephraim W. This sterling pioneer is deserving of 
more space than the limits of this work allow. He was not only 
one of the earliest American settlers, but one of the most public 
spirited and active workers for the building of the new city. 

Mr. Morse was born October 16, 1823, in Amesbury, Massa- 
chusetts. Tie was a farmer a*nd school teacher until the discov- 
ery of gold in California, when he caught the fever and joined 
a company formed for the purpose of emigrating to the coast. 
**This company," he said, *Svas intended to be, and was, a select 
company. No one could join without presenting satisfactory 
recommendations from the selectmen of the town, the mayor of 
their city, or some prominent preacher." There were 100 of 
these associates. With their joint funds they bought the ship 
Leonore and freighted her with such goods as they thought 
would be salable. The constitution of the company was dated 
December 28, 1848. and stated that the organization was **for 
the purpose of buying and chartering a ship, and freighting her 
as the directors shall see fit. for the coast of California, and 
engaging in such trading and mining operations as shall be 
deemed most advisable. ' ' The capital stock was $30,000, divided 
into 100 shares of $300 each. Each member undertook to give 
his personal time and attention to the interests of the company, 
not to engage in speculation on his own account, nor to assume 



ARRIVAL OF E. W. MORSE 281 

any pecuniary liability without the company's consent, nor to 
engage in any game of chance or skill by which money might be 
lost or won, nor to use any intoxicating liquors unless prescribed 
by a physician, all under penalty of a fine. Members were to be 
sustained and protected in sickness and interred at the com- 
pany's expense in case of death. No stockholder was to be 
allowed or required to perform any labor on the Sabbath, 
*' except works of necessity and mercy.'' 

This company of highly proper young men were chiefly friends 
and neighbors of Mr. Morse's. Among their occupations were 
the following: Fanners, teachers, carpenters, clerks, bookkeep- 
ers, bookbinders, masons, seamen, hatters, blacksmiths, geologists, 
sail-makers, joiners, stair-builders, traders, moulders, brass fin- 
ishers, machinists, soap-makers, truckmen, hiborers, curriers, 
civil engineei*s, shoemakers, tailors, chemists, harness-makers, 
saddlers, and weavers. (This reminds one of the days of the 
Hijar colony.) Before sailing, they attended a special religious 
service at Tremont Temple, in Boston, where th«» Rev. Edward 
Beecher delivered an address full of solemn admonitions; he 
seemed to regard them as the leaven of a moral reformation, of 
which California stood particularly in need. Mr. Morse's papers 
include a copy of a pamphlet containing this address, with a 
list of the passengers, and much other curious information. 

The Leonora sailed February 4, 1849, and, after an unevent- 
ful voyage, reached San Francisco on July 5th. Here the ship 
and cargo were sold and the company dispersed to the mines, on 
the Yuba River. Mr. Morse had for a partner a man named 
Levi Slack. Thev found the hot weather and other climatic con- 
ditions trying, and after four or five months returned to San 
Francisco to recuperate. They had read Dana's Two Years 
Before the Mast, and also met a man who had lived in San Diego 
and told them something about its climate. The partners there- 
fore concluded to come to San Diego, and to bring w^ith them 
a ** venture," consisting of a stock of goods for a general 
store, a ready-framed house, etc. They came on the bark Fre- 
mont, and arrived in April, 1850. Liking the place, they put up 
their house at Davistown and opened their store. The building 
was 20x30 feet, with an upstairs room, where they slept. Within 
a month after his arrival, Mr. Morse found his health completely 
restored. In 1851, he returned to Massachusetts by way of the 
Nicaraugua route, having a stormy and adventurous trip, but 
arrived safely. He married Miss Lydia A. Gray, of Amesbury, 
and while preparing to return to California with his wife, 
received news of the death of Mr. Slack and therefore hurried 
back to California, alone, leaving his wife to follow. lie was 
absent all together six months, and returned in May, 1852. Mrs. 



282 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Morse came out with Thomas Whaley and wife, the following 
year. 

By April, 1853, the new town had begun to dwindle and, hav- 
ing an opportunity to become a partner with Mr. Whaley at 
Old Town, Mr. Morse removed to that place. They kept a gen- 
eral merchandise store in one of the adobe buildings on the plaza. 
In 1856 this partnership was dissolved and Morse kept his store 
alone for three years. He then disposed of his stock and went 
to Palomar to engage in stock raising and farming. In 1861 
he returned to San Diego and again engaged in business as a 
merchant, in the old Rose House, beneath the Herald office, and 
was also agent for Wells, Fargo & Co. 's express. In June, 1869, 
he sold out his stock at Old Town to Philip Crosthw^aite and 
removed to Ilorton's Addition, taking the express office with him, 
much to the disgust of his old neighbors. From this time onward 
he was a resident and active worker for the new city. 

In 1852, he was elected and served as associate justice of the 
court of sessions. He also became secretary of the board of 
trade and held the office twelve years. April 21, 1856, he was 
admitted to the practice of law. In 1858-9 he served as county 
treasurer, and again in 1861-2-8. In 1866-7 he was city trustee, 
and in the latter year was instrumental in selling the city's lands 
to A. E. Horton. He had shown his faith in the new town by 
settling there upon his first arrival ; and he now stood by Hor- 
ton and did everything in his imwer to aid in building up the 
new addition. 

From the time of his removal to Horton 's Addition he began 
to prosper and became a vital element in the life of the new 
town. In 1870 he was a leading spirit in the organization of the 
first bank in San Diego, the Bank of San Diego, w^hich later was 
merged in the Consolidated National Bank, in both of which, as 
wtII as in the San Diego Savings Bank, he was continuously a 
director and officer. In 1871, he w^ent to Washington city to rep- 
resent San Diego in the matter of its pueblo lands, and argued 
the case with skill and ability. In company with James M. 
Pierce he built the handsome and substantial Pierce-Morse block 
on the northwest corner of Sixth and F Streets, and, in com- 
pany with Messi^s. Whaley and Dalton, the Morse, Whaley & 
Dalton block. At one time he was quite wealthy, but the collapse 
of the great boom hit him very hard, and he never fully 
recovered. 

He was one of the prime movers in the organization of the 
San Diego & Gila Railroad and acted as a director and officer 
as long as the organization continued. He was also prominently 
connected with all other railroad projects from that time until 
his death, and probably knew the story of San Diego's struggle 




Onaof ttM orliMt AnxHeu uttlcn at Old Toi 
DIaco. who flilad ■ pU« of mat prominsnct 
from hie urlvsl in 1810 anti 



hi* death In IWG 



284 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

for railroad facilities better than any other man. At the time 
the representatives of the Santa Fe came to San Diego, in Octo- 
ber, 1879, he was secretary of the Citizens' Committee, charged 
with the duty of furnishing the visitors with information. This 
duty he performed in a remarkably efficient manner, promptly 
producing everything called for, and answering all questions 
clearly and accurately. His associates testify that his great 
knowledge and untiring energj' on this occasion were among 
the strongest elements contributing to the bringing of the 
railroad. 

Among other activities, he was a member of the real estate 
firm of Morse, Nooll & Whaley from 1880 to 1886, and for about 
a year longer of the firm of Morse, Whaley & Dalton. He was 
also connected with the San Diego Flume Company and made 
a considerable investment in it. He was public administrator 
in 1876-7. He had little taste for office, however, and only 
served when he felt it to be a duty. One of his greatest ser- 
vices was in connection with the park, which he was instru- 
mental in having set aside. With characteristic steadfastness, 
he was a friend of the park to the end and stood up for its pres- 
ervation and improvement, even when others weakened. He 
was a truly public spirited citizen, to whom no worthy enter- 
prise or charity appealed in vain. He was an old and active 
Freemason and a member and officer of the first lodge formed 
in San Diego. He early learned the Spanish language and was 
regarded as a friend by the native population. Personally he 
was one of the most lovable of men, full of unaffected kindness 
and so unassuming that his real worth and the true value of 
his services were often not appreciated. He passed away on 
January 17, 1906, retaining his faculties in a remarkable degree 
to the last. 

His first wife died at Old Town, in 1856. In 1865, while act- 
ing as school trustee (an office which he filled for several terms), 
he was instrumental in bringing here Miss Mary C. Walker, of 
Manchester, New Hampshire, to teach the Old Town school. The 
storv^ of her troubles, and final resignation, has been told. On 
December 20, 1866. Mr. ^lorse and Miss Walker were married. 
By his first wife, he had one son, Edward W. Morse, who is a 
resident of Merrimae, Mass. 

NOELL, Charles P. Bom in Bedford County, Virginia, Feb- 
ruary 20, 1812. Came to California in November, 1848. He 
wfus a merchant in San Francisco until December, 1849, when 
he lost all he had in one of the great fires. In February, 1850, 
he came to San Diego and put up the first wooden building in 
the place. Here he conducted a general store, in partnership 
with Judge John Hays, for eighteen months. In company with 
M. M. Sexton and James Fitten, he bousrht a schooner in Saih 



NOELL'S ENVIABLE RECORD 285 

Francisco, loaded it with a miscellaneous cargo, and went on 
a trading expedition up the Gulf of California. They bought 
a band of sheep in Sonora, shipped them across the gulf, and 
drove them to San Diego overland. This was the first large 
band of sheep ever brought to San Diego County. In 1853, he 
sold his interest in the store to Judge Hays. The following 
year, he was elected and served as assembl\Tnan. He then went 
to South America and remained two or three years, prospecting 
for gold. In 1870 he came back to San Diego, but returned to 
Texas where he had a brother, and three years later settled in 
San Diego for good. 

In 1850, he was one of the purchasers of the addition kno^^'n 
as Middletown, and, some years later, this proved a profitable 
investment. lie was in the real estate business in partnership 
with Morse and Whaley, from alK)ut 1880 to 1886, when he 
retired. He wa.s a public spirited citizen and did much to aid 
in the development of the city. In 1850. he was chasen one of 
the first councihnen ; while servinjr in that capacity, he did 
everything in his power to prevent the looting of the city treas- 
ury by the ring which were then in the majority. Finding he 
could accomplish nothing, he resigned, in disgust. Two years 
later, when the treasury was empty and the town impoverished 
by the folly of his oj)ponents, he was chosen a member of the 
first board of tnistc^^ (the city charter having been alwlished). 
He was never married. He died December 30. 1887, leaving a 
valuable estate, and a richer leiracy in the esteem of his neigh- 
bors. On his monument is carved the words: **An Honest 
Man Ls the Noblest Work of God." He deserves everlasting 
remembrance as the one honest and fearless man in San Diego's 
first reign of graft. 

XOYES, William II. Noyes was editor of the Herald on 
several occasions during Ames's temix)rary absence, and once 
conducted the paper for a long period. He joined a company 
of volunteers and went to Arizona with them, a short time before 
the Civil War, and was killed in a battle with outlaws. 

PENDLETON, George Allan. Born at Bowling Green, Vir- 
ginia, in 1823. He was appointed to West Point in 1842. and 
was there at the same time as Grant, Sherman, Stoneman, and 
others. Cave J. Couts was also his classmate. He was appointed 
first lieutenant in the Seventh Regiment. New York Volunteers, 
August 29, 1846. This was the famous *' Stevenson Regiment." 
The appointment was signed by Governor Silas Wright, of New 
York, and bears on its back the certificate of Colonel Stevenson 
that Pendleton had taken the oath. The regiment was stationed 
at La Paz more than a year and then came to California, see- 
ing little active service in the Mexican War. Lieutenant Pen- 
flleton resigned and settled at Sonora. Tuolumne Countv. where 




286 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

he engaged in business. In 1849 he represented the San Joaquin 
district in the State Constitutional Convention. In 1855 he 
came to San Diego and made it his home. 

In the following year he organized the San Diego Guards, 
was chosen captain, and remained at the head of the organiza- 
tion until it was disbanded, shortly before the Civil War. In 
1857 he was elected county clerk and recorder (the two offices 
being combined in one), and continued to fill the position until 
his death, in 1871. He also held various other offices, being at 
times the only official in the county. 

Captain Pendleton was a nephew of Colonel J. Bankhead 
Magruder and a descendant of the last British governor of Vir- 
ginia. He was a man of capacity and culture. He married, 
first, Concepcion B. Estudillo, daughter of Jose Antonio Estu- 
dillo. He married, second, Clara F. Flynn, who survives him. 
He died March 3, 1871. His widow is now the wife of William 
Carson, and lives in San Diego. She relates that during the 
boom times, after Horton came, Mr. Pendleton would sometimes 
have as many as 400 or 500 deeds on hand at a time, waiting 
to be recorded. She was his deputy several years. His part in 
the conveyance of the city lands to Horton has been related. 
He was a steadfast friend of Old Town. 

POOLE, Charles Henr>\ Born in Dan vers, Mass., February 
5, 1835. Entered West Point but resigned before completing 
course. Engaged in newspaper work and surveying at Salem 
and Boston. In 1853 was appointed assistant to Lieutenant 
Derby in the survey of the river and harbor of San Diego. His 
wife came out with Thomas Whaley, Mrs. Morse, and party, in 
1853. He made some surveys of lands on the desert, and two 
or more sur\'eys for the San Diego & Gila Railroad (the first 
of the kind ever made in San Diego County). He was county 
surveyor several terms, and made an official survey and map of 
the San Diego pueblo lands which is well known. His report to 
the Surveyor-General is a most interesting document, full of in- 
formation, to say nothing of its humor. He was a very bright 
man. After leaving San Diego, he had a checkered career. 
From the year 1867, he was located in Washington, D. C, as 
assistant topographer in the P. O. Department, until his death, 
which occurred Januarv 25, 1880. 

ROBINSON, James W. Jiulge Robinson was, perhaps, the 
only early settler who had a distinguished career before coming 
to San Diego. He was a native of Ohio, went to Texas at an 
early day, and in 1835 was living in Austin. In November of 
that year he was a member of a convention which met at San 
Felipe, and was by that body chosen lieutenant-governor of 
Texas. In the following January, as the result of a long quar- 



GOVERNOR ROBINSON 287 

rel between Governor Smith and his eoiineil. Smith was deposed 
and Robinson became governor of Texas. The independence 
of Texas was proclaimed on March 2d and the republic organ- 
ized. In December, 1836, he was commissioned judge of the 
41st judicial district and became a member of the San Antonio 
bar. A short time after, Santa Aria had the whole court 
seized and carried away prisoners, and confined in the fortress 
of Perote. In January, 1843, tiring of his imprisonment, Rob- 
inson sent a letter to the Mexican president proposing to use 
his good offices in the negotiation of peace between the two coun- 
tries. His offer was accepted and he was released and sent 
as a commissioner from Santa Aiia to the Texan authori- 
ties. There was never any chance of such a proposition being 
accepted by the Texans, and Robinson knew it; but he had 
gained his object — his liberty. 

In 1850, Governor Robinson came to San Diego with his 
wife and son, and settled. From th(* fii-st he took a leading part 
in public affairs. It was stated by Mr. Morse that Robinson 
and Louis Rose wen* the originators of the San Diego and Gila 
Railroad project, lie was district attorney in 1852-3-4-5, and 
in the latter vear delivered the Fourth-of-Julv oration at Old 
Town. He was school commissioner in 1854, and rendered many 
other important services. He died late in October, 1857. His 
son, William X. Robinson, was a child when he came to San 
Diego with his parents. He was a well known citizen of Jamul, 
where he died Octol)er 30, 1878. He sers-ed in the Confederate 
army. In 1869-70 he represented th(» county in the assembly. 
Mrs. Robinson (his mother) was for niaiiv vears the onlv Anier- 
ican woman living in San Diogo. 

ROSE, Louis. ]\lr. Rose's business undertakings hav(» been 
mentioned. He came to San Diego in 1850, from Texas, with 
Governor Robinson and party. He was a member of the first 
grand jury, in 1850, city trustee in 1853 and, later, interested 
in the San Diego & Gila Railroad and its treasurer from organ- 
ization. Served as a volunteer in the Oarra uprising. About 
1866, he bought the tract known as ^* Rose's Garden'' from 
Judcre Hollister. He laid out Roseville on lands purchased by 
him, partly from Governor Robinson and partly from the city. 
At one time he was offered $100,000 for the townsite, but 
refused it, believing it would be the site of the future city. He 
was a Mason and one of the founders of Lodge No. 35. He was 
a most enterprising citizen and at times had considerable means. 
In June, 1883, he resigned as postmaster at Old Town, after 
having served nearly ten years. He died February 14, 1888. 
His only child. Miss Henrietta Rase, is a teacher in the San 
Diego public schools. 



288 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

SCHILLER, JMarciis. Born in Prussia, October 2, 1819. 
Came to America when 17, and in 1853 to San Francisco. Three 
years later, broken in health and fortune, he came to San Die^o. 
In 1857 he formed a partnership with Joseph S. Mannasse. The 
activities of the firm of Mannasse & Schiller have been sketched. 

Mr. Schiller was city trustee in 1860-1 and 1868, and in the 
latter year aided in establishing the irdvk. He was superintend- 
ent of schools in 1868-9. Also served as stockholder and director 
of the San Diego & Gila R. R. He married Miss Rebecca Bar- 
nett, of San Francisco, in September, 1861, and left a family. 
He died March 19, 1904. 

SLOANE, Joshua. If this work wore a collection of enter- 
taining anecdotes, instead of a sober and veracious history, it 
would be easy to fill it with stories about the various charactei's 
who once lived here. Among them all there is, perhaps, none 
more interesting than Joshua Sloane. He was the butt of many 
jokes and the ** fresh ^' young newspaper writers of the early 
70 's took such liberties with his personality that it is diflRcult 
to disentangle him from their fairy tales. But enough has been 
gathered from the records and from the recollections of his 
friends to show that he was somethins: more than merely an 
eccentric old man. 

He was a native of Ireland, came of a good family, and had 
advantages when young. He came to San Diego in the early 
50 's and earned a livelihood by various pursuits. At one time 
he was a clerk in Morse's store and later a deputy in Captain 
Pendleton's office. He owned a wind-power mill near the old 
Mission and had some real estate. In 1858 he was deputy post- 
master and in the following year postmaster. When his term 
was about to expire, the people of San Diego, who were nearly 
all opposed to him in politics, signed a protest against his reap- 
pointment. When the letter containing this document was 
deposited in the postoffice, Sloane 's curiosity was aroused by its 
appearance and address, and he opened it and read the enclos- 
ure. Having done this, he coolly cut off the remonstrance, 
wrote on similar paper a petition for his own reappointment, 
pasted the signatures below it, and forwarded the altered 
enclosure in a new envelope. The people of San Diego were at 
a loss to undei'stand why their almost unanimous petition passed 
unheeded, and it remained a mystery until Sloane himself told 
the storv, vears after. 

In the campaign of 1856, Sloane voted for Fremont, and is 
said to have l)een one of two or three in San Diego who did 
so. In the campaign of 1860 he was very active, organized a 
Republican club, and became known to the party leaders in the 
East. For this service he was made collector of the port in 
1861, and served one term. A famous storv about those da\^ 



JOSHUA SLOANE AND THE PARK 289 

was to the effect that he appointed his dog, ** Patrick/' deputy 
collector, and carried him on the pay roll. He was an auto- 
graph collector and delighted to show the letters he had received 
from notable persons. 

His greatest service to San Diego was, undoubtedly, his work 
for the park. He was secretary of the board of trustees at the 
time the question of setting aside the park came up, and was 
one of the earliest, most tireless, and most earnest advocates of 
a large park. One of his friends says regarding this: **He 
was the man who first proposed having a big park here and he 
urged it upon the trustees till they let him have his way. There 
were people here who wanted it cut down and it was due to 
his efforts that this was not done. He often said to me: ^They 
want to cut up the park, but I'm damned if they shall do it!' 
He stood like a bulldog over that big park and, some day, peo- 
ple will be grateful to him for doing so. His mission here seemed 
to be to save that park, and he did it.'' 

While Joshua Sloane was a sliv man, he had a few warm 
friends who understood him and speak of him to this day with 
respect and affection. There is no doubt that he was (H^eentric 
and much misunderstood. ITe died, unmarried, January 6, 
1879. 

S^IITH, Albert. B. This was one of the earliest American 
settlers, cominir to San Dioiro before the Mexican War. Tie was 
a native of New York. His service in the Mexican War has 
been described. In 1S56, 1858-9 he was superintendent of 
schools. He married Guadalupe Maehado de Wilder, widow 
of Peter Wilder and dausrhtor of Jose Manud Maehado. Thev 
had several children: Angelo Smith, ])orn 1851 ; married Sally 
J. Burr, widow of Dr. Edward Burr; they had five children. 
Lives in the old Burr place at Old Town. Mrs. Smith died 
recently. Estes G. Smith, married first, Joseph Schellinger; sec- 
ond, Richard Kerren, both of whom are dead. She lives at Old 
Town. Albert H. Smith, married first, Mary Pond ; they had five 
children ; second, Julia Cota, who had four children. Lives in 
the old A. B. Smith house at Old Town. Mary Smith, first wife 
of Andrew Cassidy. Ysabel Smith, married Geo. Lyons and 
had three children ; she is dead. 

STEWART, John C. Was a shipmate of Richard Henry 
Dana in 1834, and settled at San Diego in 1838. Dana speaks 
of meeting him when he revisited San Diego, in 1859. Tie was 
born Sept. 2, 1811, and died Febniarv 2, 1892. He married 
Rosa Machado, daughter of Jose IManuel Machado ; she was born 
November 15, 1828, and died May 4, 1898. John C. Stewart 
was second mate of the Alert. He was a pilot and was called 
*'E1 Pilato." He served in the Mexican War and with the Fitz- 



290 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

gerald Volunteers in 1851. Children: John B., married; lives 
at San Bernardino ; has five children. Manuel, unmarried, Uvea 
at Old Town. James, unmarried, lives at San Diego. Frank 
J., unmarried, lives with Paul Connors at Old Town. Rosa, 
unmarried. Serafina, married Louis Serrano. Mary N., mar- 
ried Paul S. Connors. Susan, married Ben F. Parsons, lives at 
Old Town ; has three children. 

SUTHERLAND, Thomas W. Was one of the earliest, if not 
the very first, attorney to make San Diego his home. He was 
alcalde March 18, 1850, on which date he signed the deed to 
Davis and associates for the new San Diego tract. He was the 
first city attorney under the American administration, and dis- 
trict attorney in 1851. He removed to San Francisco in 1852. 

TIBBETTS (or Tebbetts). George P. Was an elector at La 
Playa, April 1, 1850. A member of the ^* Reform'' council 
elected in 1851, and mayor in 1852, being the last mayor before 
the abolition of the city's charter. He was associated with the 
San Diego & Gila R. R. from its inception, and was its secre- 
tary from 1854 to 1858. He served as an ensign in the Garra 
campaign, and in 1853 was a captain of militia under Kurtz. 
He left San Diego before its new prosperity began and settled 
at Santa Barbara, where he was for many years the publisher 
of the News, 

WALL, Enos A. Born at Freeport, Maine. Was an elector 
at San Diego, April 1, 1850. Married Antonia Machado, 
daughter of Jose Manuel Machado. He died in new San Diego, 
Januarv' 2, 1885, and left a family, none of whom lives here 
now. A daughter, Refugia, married Capt. William Price. He 
was a shipmate of John C. Stewart's, and is said to have been 
in charge of one of the old hide houses when Dana was at San 
Diego in 1836. 

WARNER, Jonathan T. Better known as Don Juan Warner, 
was born at Lyme. Connecticut, November 20, 1807. He 
came to California in 1831 and settled at Los Angeles. In 
1848 he removed to what is known as Warner's Ranch and 
lived there until 1857. His adventures in the Garra insurrec- 
tion have been mentioned. In 1836, he married Anita Gale, 
daughter of William A. Gale. His later years were spent in 
Las Angeles. He was San Diego's first state senator, serving 
in 1850-1-2. 

WHALEY, Thomas. Mr. Whaley was born in New York 
City, October 5, 1823. He received a good education at Wash- 
ington Institution, and then travelled two years in Europe with 
his tutor, M. Emile Mallet. At the breaking out of the gold 
fever he sailed for California in the Sutton, — the first ship to 
leave that port for the diggings, — and reached San Francisco 



THOMAS WHALEY AND FAMILY 



291 



July 22, 1849. In the summer of 1851, Lewis A. Frauklin aud 
George H. Davis chartered a vessel and with a cargo of goods 
started down the coast on a trading voyage. Mr. Whaley had 
an interest in this venture, but remained in San Francisco as 
agent. Reaching San Diego, they liked the place so well that 
they determined to remain. Mr. Whaley followed in October, 
and, in partnership with Franklin, opened the Tiendii Cdl'ifor- 




MR. AND MRS. 



Ilia (California Store), In the following April the firm was 
dissolved and in partnership with Jack Hinton, Mr. Whaley 
bought the interest of R. E. Raymond in the Tienda General 
(general store). This partnership continued a year and in that 
time the firm cleared $18,600 — quite a sum for those days. In 
April, 1853, Hinton retired and E. W. Morse entered the firm, 
Mr. Whaley went to New York and married Miss Anna E. 
Lannay, August 14, 1853. Mrs. Whaley is of pure French 
extraction, being a descendant of the De Lannay and Gode- 
frois families. On the return of the party to San Diego a num- 



292 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

ber of others, including Mrs. Morse and Mrs. Poole, came with 
them. 

In 1856 Mr. Morae retired from the firm and Mr. Whaley con- 
tinued alone, also engaging in brickmaking in Mission Valley 
— the first burnt bricks made in San Diego County. In that 
year, also, he erected his residence and store building, which is 
still standing at Old Town — the first burnt brick building on 
the coast south of San Francisco. In 1858 he was engaged in 
mercantile business with Walter Ringgold, but the store and 
goods were destroyed by an incendiary fire. 

Upon the breaking out of the Garra insurrection, Mr. Whaley 
joined the Fitzgerald Volunteers and served in the campaign. 
In 1859 he quitted San Diego and was in different employments, 
at San Francisco and in Alaska. Soon after Horton came, he 
returned from New York, bringing a stock of goods with him. 
He bought out Mr. Morse, who removed to new San Diego, and 
took into partnership Philip Crosthwaite. By February, 1870, 
it had become quite evident that the new town would prevail 
as the citv of the future, and the firm removed to Horton 's 
Addition. The enterprise did not prosper, however, and the 
connection was a disastrous one for ^Ir. Whaley. In 1873 he 
again went to New York and remained five years. In 1879 he 
once more settled in San Diego, and in the following fall 
engaged in the real astate business with E. W. Morse. Charles 
P. Noell was soon after admitted to the firm. In February, 
1886, Mr. Noell sold out to R. H. Dalton. Mr. Whaley retired 
from active business in 1888. He was a large property owner 
at Old Town, new San Diego, and La Play a. lie was a public 
spirited citizen, but took little part in politics, only holding the 
office of city trustee in 1885, city clerk in 1881-2, etc. He died 
December 14, 1890. 

WILDER, Peter. One of the American residents in 1845. 
He married Guadalupe Machado, daughter of Jose Manuel 
Machado. They had two daughters : Dolores, who was married 
to Dr. David B. Hoff'man, and Refugia, who was the wife of 
Captain Samuel Warren Hackett. Wilder died and his widow 
was married a second time, to Albert B. Smith. 

WITHERBY, Oliver S. Judge Witherby was one of the 
most important men in the community, in his day, as he is yet 
one of the best remembered. He was born near Cincinnati, 
Ohio, February 19, 1815. Received his education at the Miami 
University, where he graduated in 1836. Studied law in Ham- 
ilton, Ohio, and was admitted to practice in 1840. At the 
breaking out of the Mexican War, he was appointed first lieu- 
tenant and served a])out a year, when he was invalided and dis- 
charged. Served as prosecuting attorney of Hamilton County 



JUDGE WITHERBY 293 

and acted as editor of the Hamilton Telegraph. In February, 
1849, came to San Diego as quartermaster and commissary of 
the U. S. Boundary Commission, reaching San Diego June 1. 
Liking the country, he decided to remain, and the people of San 
Diego County elected him to represent them in the first assem- 
bly, at Monterey, in 1850. He was appointed by this legislature 
judge of the newly created first district court and served the 
full term of three years. In 1853 he was appointed collector 
of customs for San Diego and adjoining counties and filled a 
term of four years. In 1857 he purchased the Escondido Rancho 
and for more than ten years was a successful farmer and stock 
raiser. In 1868 he sold his ranch and removed to San Diego. 
He was a stockholder and director of the earlv banks of San 
Diego, and in 1879, upon the consolidation of the Bank of San 
Diego and the Commercial Bank, he was chosen president of 
the new institution and served several years. He invested 
largely in real estate and showed his faith in the city's future 
at all times. He was prominently connected, as an investor and 
executive officer, with most of the important enterprises of his 
day. At the collapse of the great boom and the subsequent 
bank failures, he was ** caught hard'* and lost practically his 
whole fortune, although he had been rated at half a million. 
He died December 18, 1896. 

Besides the offices mentioned, he served as public administra- 
tor from 1860 to 1867. He w^as also intimately connected with 
the San Diego & Gila R. R., and was its president in 1858 and 
for some years after. Judge Witherby was a genial and pop- 
ular man. 

WRIGHTIXGTON, Thomas. With the possible exception of 
Henry D. Fitch, Thomas Wright ington was the first American 
settler in San Diego. He came with Abel Stearns, on the 
Ayucucho, in 1833, and settled, while Stearns went on up the 
coast. Wrightington was supercargo of the vessel. He was 
from Fall River, Mass., was a shoemaker by trade, and had a 
good education. He applied for naturalization in 1835 and got 
provisional papers in 1838. He served as a volunteer in the 
Mexican War. He held several minor offices, both under the 
Mexican and American governments. Bancroft spells his name 
Ridington, which is erroneous. 

He married Juana Machado de Alipas, widow of Damasio 
Alipas and daughter of Jose Manuel Machado. Their children 
were Jose, Serafina, and Luis. Jose was sent to Boston with 
the intention that he should be adopted and brought up by an 
uncle; but, having taken offense at a colored footman in his 
uncle's house, he went off to sea on his own account. He was 
a whaler all his life and married a Chilean woman. Serafina 



294 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

was married to John Miuturn. Luis was killed by a horse, at 
San Juan. 

Mrs. Wrightington was a widow several years, and a well 
remembered character of Old Town. She was a mother to all 
the unfortunates around the Bay. She spent her last days with 
her daughter, Mrs. Israel, at Coronado. 




CHAPTER XIII 

THE JOURNALISM OF OLD SAN DIEGO 

IIP] first paper published in the city of San 
Die^o was the San Diego Herald. The ini- 
tial number appeared on May 29, 1851, only 
twelve days after the first publication of La 
Estrella de Los Angeles (The Star of Los 
Andrei es). In September of the preceding 
year a small sheet called the San Luis Rey 
Coyote had ])een issued by some army officers 
stationed at that mission, purportin^: to be edited by one C. 
Senior (Si Senor). It was a comic journal neatly written, and 
contained a map and some useful information; but it was not 
in any proper sense of the word a new^spaper, and only one 
number was published. It is not known how many copies were 
issued. 

^The Herald was at first a four-pafce four-column paper, pub- 
lished every Thursday. The subscription price was $10 per 
annum, and the advertisinfr rates were: 8 lines or less. $4 for 
the first insertion and $2 for each subsequent insertion ; busi- 
ness cards at monthly rates and a discount offered to vearlv 
advertisei's. The readintr matter in the first number, including 
a list of 320 letters which had accumulated in the San Diego 
postoffice, filled five and three-fourths columns. The local adver- 
tisements made two columns, and those of San Francisco adver- 
tisers eight and one-fourth columns. The paper contained quite 
a little local news and was well set up and printed. 

The editor and proprietor of this paper was John Judson 
Ames. He was bom in Calais, Maine, May 18, 1821, and was 
therefore a few days past his thirtieth birthday when he set- 
tled in San Diego. He was a tall, stout, broad-shouldered man, 
six feet six and one-half inches high, proportionately built, and 
of great physical strength. His father was a shipbuilder and 
owner. Early in the 40 s young Ames's father sent him as 
second mate of one of his ships on a voyage to Liverpool. I^pon 
his return, while the vessel was being moored to the wharf at 
Boston, a gang of rough sailor boarding-house runners rushed 
on board to get the crew away. Ames remonstrated with them, 
saying if they would wait until the ship was made fast and 
cleaned up, the men might go w^here they pleased. The run- 



296 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

ners were insolent, however, a quarrel ensued, and one of the 
intruders finally struck him a blow on the chest. Ames retal- 
iated with what he meant for a light blow, merely straighten- 
ing out his arm, but, to his horror, his adversary fell dead at 
his feet. He was inamediately arrested, tried for manslaughter, 
convicted, and sentenced to a long term in the Leverett Street 
Jail. The roughs had sworn hard against him, but President 
John Tyler understood the true facts in the case, and at once 
pardoned him. After this, he was sent to school to complete 
his education. A few years later, being of a literary turn, he 
engaged in newspaper work, and in 1848 went to Baton Rouge, 
Louisiana, and started a paper w^hich he called the Dime 
Catcher, devoted to the cause of the Whig party, in general, 
and of General Zachary Taylor's candidacy for the presidency, 
in particular. 

After the discovery of gold, he joined the stream of immi- 
grants and came to California viu Panama, arriving at San 
Francisco October 28, 1849, without . a penny in his pockets. 
Borrowing a handcart, he engaged in the business of hauling 
trunks and luggage. He always kept as a pocket-piece the first 
quarter of a dollar he earned in this way. His financial con- 
dition soon improved and he formed a number of valuable 
friendships, especially among his Masonic brethren at San Fran- 
cisco. He was present at the first meeting of any Masonic lodgp 
in California, that of California Lodge (now No. 1) ; on Novem- 
ber 17, 1849. On the following 9th of December he became a 
member of this lodge, presenting his demit from St. Croix 
Lodge No. 40, F. & A. M. of Maine. He also became interested 
in newspaper work, writing under the pen name of ** Boston.'* 

The question naturally occurs at this point: What was it 
which induced a man thus situated to leave these friends and 
settle in a little town of five or six hundred inhabitants! 
Ames's own writings may be searched for the answer, in vain. 
It is scarcely sufficient to suppose that it was due to his desire 
for independent employment, for at that time the region could 
not support a paper which would pay its publisher a living. 
The matter has excited wonder in other quarters. Thus, a 
writer in the Sacramento Union says: 

A number of young but well-defined interests called for the 
publication of an orjjan in this end of the Western American 
seaboard, though San Diego at that early day, no less than in 
later times, offered very little encouragement of the quality of 
local support to a newspaper. Any person who was willing to 
accept the chances of an easy living, and endure the dull routine 
of a little out of the way place, holding on for advantages that 
must certainly come by and by, might publish a newspaper in 
San Diego successfully; and such a person seems to have been 



DESIGNS OF SENATOR GWIN 297 

found in the conductor of the organ at that place. To him 
belongs the merit of establishing the press on that lonely shore. 

The answer to this ([uestion rests upon the testimony of liv- 
ing: men, to whom Ames disclosed it in confidence, and is strik- 
ingly confirmed by the whole j>olicy of the Herald. Ames estab- 
lished the Herald as the organ of United States Senator William 
M. Gwin, who expected to bring about the division of the state, 
the annexation of Lower California and the Sandwich Islands, 
and the constrncfion of a Southern transcontinental railway ter- 
minating at San Diego. This, of course, would have made San 
Dieoro the capital of the new state, and probably the most im- 
portant city on the Pacific coast. That Gwin had the purposes 
mentioned, and that the first transcontinental railway project 
was for a line on the 32nd parallel and intended as an outlet 
for the Southern states, are historical facts too well known to 
require proof. From the first, the Herald vijarorously supported 
Senator Gwin's policies, the project of state division, and the 
Southern transcontinental railway. Moreover, the surprisingly 
lar«re volume of San Francisco advertisements in the Herald 
can scarcely be accounted for on any theory except that the 
paper was subsidized by means of these advertisements. It is 
scarcely reasonable to suppase that there was business enough 
here to justify San Francisco merchants in using more than 
half of Ames's space for their advertisements, at the start, and 
to keep this up for years. As a matter of fact, Ames took only 
a slight part in the pnblic life of San Diego, and spent all the 
time he possibly could in San Francisco. Gwin failed in all 
these schemes, although he served as senator from California 
two full terms from 1840 to 1860. Tie also failed to keep his 
promi.ses to Ames, and the editor's end, broken in health, for- 
tune, and ambition, was tnily a sad one. But this is antici- 
pating; at the present point in our story, our editor is young, 
strong, and full of hope. 

In getting his paper established at San Diego, he had to over- 
come obstacles which, as he himself says. ** would have disheart- 
ened any but a 'live Yankee.' " He issued a prospectus in 
December, 1850, and took subscription and advertising con- 
tracts on the strength of it. Had his plans prospered, the 
Herald would have been the first new^spaper printed south of 
Monterey; but delays and diflRculties followed. He says in his 
first number: 

We issued our prospectus in December last, and supposed at 
the time that we had secured the material for our paper; but 
when we come to put our hand on it, if waj<n*t there! Deter- 
mined to lose no time, we took the first boat for New Orleans, 
where we selected our office, and had returned as far as the 



298 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Isthmus, when Dame Misfortune gave us another kick, snagged 
our boat, and sunk everything in the Chagres River. After fish- 
ing a day or two we got enough to get out a paper, and pushed 
on for Gorgona, letting the balance go to Davy Jones' Locker. 
Then comes the tug of war, in getting our press and heavy 
boxes of type across the Isthmus. Three weeks of anxiety and 
toil prostrated us with the Panama fever by which we missed 
our passage in the regular mail steamer — the only 'boat that 
touched at San Diego — thereby obliging us to go on board a 
propeller bound for San Francisco. This boat sprung a leak 
off the Gulf of Tehauntepec — came near sinking — run on a sand- 
bank — and finally got into Acapulco where she was detained a 
week in repairing. We at last arrived in San Francisco, just 
in time to lose more of our material by the late fire. 

Some side lij^hts are thrown upon his adventures, by the way, 
by thase to whom he related them more in detail. On arriving 
at Chagres, he found much difficulty in getting his outfit trans- 
ported across the Isthmus. The only means of conveyance was 
by barges or canoes up the Chagres River to the head of nav- 
igation at Gorgona or Cnices, and thence on the backs of mules 
to Panama. He engaged a bungo w^ith a crew of native boat- 
men and started up the river. When the boat was snagged, the 
standard of the press, a casting weighing alw)ut four hundred 
pounds, was part of the sunken material and. although the river 
was shallow, the boatmen were unable to lift it up on the boat 
again. After watching their futile efforts for half a day, Ames 
lost his patience completely and, jumping overboard in a frenzy 
and scattering the boatmen right and left, he seized the press 
and placed it upon the boat, himself. Arriving at Cruces, he 
experienced great difficulty in getting his goods transported by 
mules, and had to pay exorbitant prices. When he reached 
Panama, he was compelled by the attack of fever to remain 
some time, along with a number of California immigrants wait- 
ing for a steamer. During this time of waiting, he set up his 
plant and published a paper called the Panama Herald, half in 
English and half in Spanish. 

It would seem that a man of so much strength and tenacity 
of purpose was of the sort to make a success of his newspaper 
venture at San Diego; and, indeed, though the Herald was 
somewhat erratic, it never lacked in vigor. 

Ames cast in his lot with the new town (Graytown, or Davis's 
Folly), which was then just starting. He had met William 
Heath Davis before coming, and the latter aided him to the 
extent of almost $1,000 in getting his press set up — a debt which 
was never discharged. The office of the Herald was over the 
store of Hooper & Co., at the corner of Fourth and California 
Streets. About two years later, when the new town had proven 
a temporary failure, the Herald was removed to Old Town, and 



TRIPS OF EDITOR AMES 299 

for the greater part of its life occupied the second floor of a 
building owned by Louis Rose, at the northwest corner of the 
plaza. 

Ames's frequent trips to San Francisco, doubtless made for 
the purpose of looking after his political fences as well as his 
advertising patronage, began soon after his settlement in San 
Diego. It has been suggested that his readers, as well as him- 
self, needed an occasional rest. Having no partner, it was his 
custom to leave the paper in charge of his foreman or some 
friend whom he could induce to undertake the burden. This 
course led to trouble on more than one occasion. It was quite 
the usual thing for an issue or two to be skipped at such a time. 
While he was away on these and other trips, it was Ames's cus- 
tom to w^rite long letters to the Herald, which he signed ** Bos- 
ton," and hence he became locally known as ** Boston." 

His first trip to San Francisco seems to have been on Octo- 
ber 30, 1851, when he left his foreman, R. M. Winants, in 
charge of the paper, ^Svith a good pair of scissors and a vast 
pile of exchanges." 

On January 24, 1852, he went to San Francisco again, leav- 
ing '*tho amiable trio, Vaurian & Co.," to occupy the editorial 
chair. Vaurian was the pen name of a contributor to the 
flfrahl, whose identity is unknown. 

In the latter part of August, 1852, Ames left for the Atlan- 
tic States, and did not return until the following March. He 
left the keys of his office with Jiulgt* James W. Robinson, but 
in December a man named William N. Walton came to San 
Diego and, representing to Judge Robinson that he had 
arranged with Ames in San Francisco to publish the paper, 
was allowed to take possession. He proceeded to publish the 
paper in his own name from December 4 until Ames's return, 
March 19-21, 1853, when he suddenly disappeared. The only 
allusion Ames made to this affair upon his return was this: 

During our absence in the Atlantic States, last winter, a 
friend to whom we loaned the keys of our office allowed a 
usurper to enter there, who made such sad havoc with our 
working tools, to say nothing of the injury done to the reputa- 
tion of the Herald, that it will take some time yet to get things 
established on the old basis. 

Six years later this Walton was arrested in Portland, Oregon, 
on a charge of robbery, and the Herald, in commenting on this, 
says that at the time of the Walton episode he had closed the 
office **for the season.'' 

The Herald of August 13, 1853, contained the following 
announcement : 



300 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

We shall leave on the first steamer for San Francisco, to be 
absent about two weeks. A friend of acknowledged ability 
and literary acquirements will occupy the Old Arm Chair 
during our absence. 

This was the prelude to the most amusing scrape that Ames's 
absences led him into, as it was the occasion when Lieutenant 
Derby edited the Herald for six weeks (instead of two) and 
changed its politics, as related farther on. Ames seems to have 
learned something from this experience, for upon starting again 
for San Francisco, a]w)ut December 3rd, of the same year, leav- 
ing one ** Borax'' in charge, he gave the editor pro tern, of the 
paper '^strict injunctions not to change its politics," as Derby 
had done. 

In April, 1855, Ames went East again. It is said this trip 
was made on public business, but nothing has come to light to 
show what the public business was. Ames himself states that 
he was present at the convention of the American (Knownoth- 
ing) party, in Philadelphia, when Fillmore was nominated for 
president. It is a matter of record that he brought out Phoe- 
nixiana at this time, and it is also understood that he married 
and brought his wife to San Diego with him upon his return, 
some time the following spring. 

During this prolonged absence, Ames left Wm. H. Noyes in 
charge of the paper, who took good care of it, not only at this 
time, but also on several subsequent occasions when Ames went 
to San Francisco. In April, 1857, when about to depart on 
such a trip, Ames left the following savage attack upon certain 
officials for insertion in the next issue: 

Malfeasance in Office: . . . We have for a long time 
been aware of the utter unfitness of our Countv Clerk and Be- 
corder for the position which he occupies. ... It is well 
known that this County is deeply in debt, but it is not so well 
known that the greatest portion of this debt has gone into the 
hands of county officers. . . . The salary of the County 
Judge of this county is fixed by law at' $1000 and yet for a 
long time Mr. Couts, the County Auditor, has been issuing 
scrip to him at the rate of .$1200 per annum. 

He then goes on to say that a party had a bill against the 
county, of long standing, which after some trouble he got ap- 
proved, and demanded the issuance of scrip to him first, so that 
it would be the first paid when the county had any money. He 
charges that Couts promised to do this but evaded it and issued 
scrip clandestinely to his friends ahead of it. 

It is to be regretted that there are not other offices in the 
county to which he (Couts) could be elected or appointed, as he 
at present only fills the following: County Clerk, County Re- 
corder, County Auditor, Clerk of the Court of Sessions, Clerk 



SOME EDITORIAL APOLOGIES 301 

of the First DiBtritt Court, (.'lerk of the Boaril of 8up«rvi8ore 
and Clerk of the Board of KqualizHtioa; the income of nhich 
offices is greater than that of any other officer in the county. 

This looks as though Gilbert had been reading the Sav Diego 
Herald when he drew his character of Pooh Bah, in the opera 
of the Mikado. In the next issue of the Herald Noyes ri'piidi- 
ates this blast and "wishes it distinctly understood that it owes 
its paternity to the reffular editor." 

The issue of May 30, 1857. eontains an apology for its lean- 
ness in the matter of news, "the editor being absent in San 




Francisco, the sub-editor gone into the country, and, to crown 
all, the 'devil' having sloped, leaving iis 'alone in our glory,' 
with an overabundance of labor to perform, and a dearth of 
local news." 

It is probable that on account of his relations with Senator 
Gwin, Ames had free steamer transportation during the first 
two or three years of the Herald's life. Derby seems to have 
had some such thought in his mind when writing this: 

"Faeilis descensux Ai'erni, which may be liberally translated; 



302 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

It Ih easy to go to San Francisco. Ames has gone." 

During the last year or two of the Herald's publication in 
San Diego it was not so **easy/' for the paper severely criti- 
cises the Ilolliday steamship line, complains of its poor service 
and high fares, ** which prevent the editor from going to San 
Franciseo on pressing business,'' indicating, possibly, that the 
fr(H» pass had been called in. 

The political complexion of the paper w^as changed several 
times. The first issue announced it to be ** Independent in all 
things, neutral in nothing,'' but soon afterward it supported 
BigK»r for governor, and the full Democratic ticket nominated 
by the Benieia convention. But Ames was independent enough 
to kick over all party traces when he felt like it. He opposed 
President Pierce and severely criticised him at times; one rea- 
son for this doubtless being the fact that Pierce had vetoed a 
bill appropriating money for the improvement of the San 
Diego River. In April, 1855, he hoisted the name of General 
Sam Houston for president. In May, 1856, he came out for 
Fillmore and Doiu^lson for president and vice-president, and 
went over completely to the Knownothing party, sul)stituting 
for his original motto the following: ** Thoroughly American 
in principle, sentiment and effort." This bolt to the Know- 
nothing party appears not to have produced any results. The 
town and county were Democratic up to the time that Horton 
came, and for some little time thereafter. When the Know- 
notliing movement died out Ames returned to the Democratic 
fold. In 1857 his motto was changed to: ** Devoted to the 
inten»st of Southern California.'* 

It is clear that Anu^ su]>pn^sed many things which he 
thought might hurt the reputation of the town. The trouble 
with the San Franeis(»t> volunttvrs, followiuir the Garra insur- 
rtvtion, is seanvly mentioned in the HtmUI. Asrain. while 
Anu*s was away on t>ne<>f his trips, the etlitor pro tem. thought 
pn>|H»r to write up and condemn certain disorders. Some of 
the citizens pn>tt»sttHl against this publicity in a letter in which 
they dtvlartnl it was inuitrary to Anu^s's |wliey to have such 
items appear. It may Ih^ infemnl fnmi this that much inter- 
t^sting historical material has Invn lost, on account of this pol- 
icy <»f suppression — a |H>licy which is not yet extinct. 

The nuuiy difficulties under which the pa|>er stnisrgled wanld 
make an intensting story tHnild Ames hims^^lf tell it. Tb^r^ 
was no telei:raph. no telephone, no railnvad in those da.A^ and 
for news of the outside world he was de|x*ndent U[H>n a semi- 
monthly mail serviiV by steamer, which st^rviiV was p^x^r and 
im^gular. He stvms to have deivndeil for his exchanges aliiK^ 
entirely u|vn the pursers of the steamers calling at this port. 



THE PASSING OF AMES 303 

In almost every issue of the paper he acknowledges the receipt 
of bundles of papers, or yrrowls about the neglect of those who 
should deliver mail and do not. After the transcontinental 
stage line was opened to the East (August 31, 1857) matters 
went somewhat better. 

In the latter part of 1855 the Herald ran for some time a 
list of all the postoflfices in California and at all times it was 
found necessary to fill up wnth miscellaneous matter. 

Another source of trouble was the difficulty of obtaining sup- 
plies of print paper, and several issues were printed on com- 
mon brown wrapping paper, for the reason that the paper 
ordered had, through some neglect or blunder at San Francisco, 
not arrived. 

The failure of Gwin^s schemes had a very depressing effect 
upon Ames, whose hopes and expectations had been very high, 
and other causes tended to discourage him. His wife died 
March 14. 1857. and not long after unknown parties mutilated 
and destroyed the monumt^nt at her grave. On October of this 
year, while he was absent in San Francisco, a gale blew down 
and com[)letely demolished his house at Old Town, known as 
**Cosy Cottage. ^^ These things saddened and embittered him 
and, already somewhat given to indulgence in liquor, he became 
dissipated and broken in health. He married again, about 1858 
or 1859. Soon after this. Brigham Young ordered the Mormons 
living at San Bernardino to come to Salt Lake to aid him in 
resisting the United States troops under Albert Sydney John- 
ston, and most of them sold out in haste for whatever thev could 
get. The influx of Americans who ])ought them out, together 
with the discovery of gold in ITolcomb Valley, made San Ber- 
nardino fpiite lively and Ames determined to remove his paper 
to that place. The last number of the San Diego Herald was 
issued April 7, 1860, and then Mr.-IIarvey C. Ladd, a Mormon 
w^ho had been a resident of San Diego, hauled the outfit to San 
Bernardino, and Ames began the publication of the San Ber- 
nardino Herald. The new paper did not prosper, however, and 
in a short time he sold out to Major Edwin A. Sherman. Ames's 
end was now near, and he died on the 28th dav of Julv, 1861. 
He had one son, called TTuddie, born in San Diego, November 
19. 1859, and died in San Bernardino March 27, 1863. TTis 
widow married again, and she is now also deceased. 

The ]>ress which was used in printinir the San Diego Herald 
was an old-fashioned Washington hand press, made by R. TToe 
& Co., New York, and numbered 2327. It is still in use, in Inde- 
pendence, Inyo County, where it ])rints the fnyo Independent. 
After using it for a time to publish the San Bernardino Patriot, 
at the beginning of the Civil War, ^lajor Sherman employed 



304 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

Mr. Ladd to haul it across the mountains to Aurora, then in 
California, but now in Nevada, where in May, 1862, he com- 
menced the publication of the Esmeralda Star. Three years 
later he sold the outfit to other parties, and it was later taken 
to Independence. It should be brought to San Diego to form 
the nucleas of an historical collection. There may be a few 
scattered numbers of the Herald in the hands of old residents, 
but the only collection known is that in the San Diego public 
library. A few numbers are missing, but it is almost complete. 
The preservation of this invaluable file is due to the care of 
Mr. E. W. Morse. 

In estimating the character and achievements of John Jud- 
son Ames, there are some things to condemn, but, on the whole, 
much to praise. He was large-hearted, generous, and enterpris- 
ing. For that time, his education was good and he wrote with 
clearness and fluency. He had opinions of his own and was not 
backward about expressing them. In speaking of the New Eng- 
land Abolitionists, he refers to them as **such men as Garrison 
and Sumner, who are distracting the country with their treason- 
able and fanatical preachings.'' Like other journalists, he 
found it impossible to please all the people all the time, and 
there was frequently local dissatisfaction with his utterances. 
June 10, 1852, he published a letter, signed by nine residents 
and business men of San Diego, discontinuing their subscriptions, 
and made sarcastic comments on it ; and a few months later he 
savs: **There are several individuals in this citv who don't like 
the Herald. We don't care a damn whether thov like it or not." 

On another occasion he broke out thus : 

JnsoU'nce. — Thore is .n man in this town, holding a pubUc po- 
sition, who has got to using his tongne pretty freely of late, 
and but that we esteem him beneath the notice of responsible 
citizens, we have been half inclined, on several occasions, to 
knock him down and give him a good sound thrashing. If we 
thought the better portion of the community would justify us, 
and the District Attorney would not bear down too hard upon 
us for a fine, we would try what good a little pummeling would 
do an insolent official. 

It is probable that Ames's immense size kept him out of trou- 
ble, as no one cared to tackle him. There is no record of his hav- 
ing been engaged in a duel, or in any personal combat, except 
the mythical one with Lieutenant Derby, but an item in the 
Herald of August 13, 1853, shows that he was a valuable peace 
officer and something of a sprinter as well. 

Indinn Bows. — There is scarcely a day passes that there 
is not some fight among the Indians about town, in which one 
or more is cut or otherwise mutilated — and all through the di- 
rect influence of whiskey or some other intoxicating drink sold 



THE ADVENT OF DERBY 305 

to them by Califomians or Americans. ... A row occurred 
last Sunday night in which some fifteen or twu^nty drunken In- 
dians participated, some of whom got badly beaten or cut with 
knives. Sheriff Conway called u[>on a number of citizens about 
12 o'clock to go and arrest these disturbers of the peace. They 
succeeded in capturing eleven of the tribe, who were arraigned 
the next day before Justice Franklin. One was fined $10 and 
sentenced to ten days imprisonment, another to receive 2.1 
lashes each for two offences; and two were fined $5 and costs. 
On arresting the last '* batch'' the ringleader was put in charge 
of Judge Ames, to canvey to the 'Mock-up.'' They had ad- 
vanced but a few" rods from the rest of the party when the 
Indian made a sudden spring from his leviathan escort and 
made tracks towards the river. The Judge commanded him to 
stop, but he kept on, and was fired at twice — the last ball tak- 
ing a scratch at his side just under the left arm. Having no 
more shots, legs were put into requisition, and then came the 
tug of war. The Indian held his own for about fifty yards, 
when the Judge began to gain on him, and when he had got 
within striking distance, that ponderous arm of his came down 
twice with a ** slung shot," breaking the Indian's right arm 
and his left collar bone, which brought him to the ground, 
when he was secured and taken to the calaboose. 

Soon after this oceiirrenee, Amos advertised for the return of 
a sword cane. It also appears that he had some difficulty with 
Major Justus McKinstry, which nnitual friends thoup:ht it nec- 
es.sary to arran<re before Ames's departure for the East, in April, 
1853, and J. R. Gitchell published a card statin^r that a recon- 
ciliation had been effected. It is clear that, notwithstandin<r his 
grigantic size, our fii^st editor was not alto*rether a man of peace. 
It is also a fact that he was very remiss in the payment of his 
debts. That he had enemies in San Diciro and vicinitv is shown 
by the fact that he held but one elective office, and that 
a minor one. 

Lieutenant Cicorge H. Derby made San Die<?o his home for 
about two years, from 1858 to 1855, and left behind him mem- 
ories which the people of San Die<?o cherish to this day. This, 
not merelv because the scene of so manv of the funnv thin<rs in 
Phoenixiava is laid here, but quite as much on account of his 
lovable personality. It may be assumed that the reader is famil- 
iar with that delectable ])ook and it will therefore not be profit- 
able to reproduce any considera])le part of it; but it is believed 
that something about Derby's life and personality, with a few 
selections of local interest from Phoemriana and others from the 
old TIerald files not so familiar to the pu])lic, will prove of 
interest. 

George Horatio Derby was born in Dedham, ^Massachusetts, 
April 3, 1823. lie attended school in Concord and is remem- 
bered by Senator Hoar, who says in his AiifohiograpJnf that 
Derby was very fond of small bo vs. Afterward he tended store 



306 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

in (Vnieord, but failed to please his employer, '*\vho was a 
sniiiT and avaricious pei-son/' During the proprietor's weekly 
absonci^s in Hoston, Derby would stretch himself out on the 
counter and read novels, and at such times did not like to be 
disturl)ed to wait on customers and was quite likely to tell them 
the ^oods thev wanted were out. He afterward entered West 

• ^ ft 

Point and fjraduated with distinction, in 1846. He served 
throuirh the Mexican War. was wounded at Cerro Gordo, and 
was made a first lieutenant. 

In April, 1849, he arrived in California on board the lawa, 
with General Bennett Riley and a part of the Second Infantry 
Regiment. He was employed on different tours of duty in the 
Topogra[)hical Corps, until July. 1853. when he was detailed 
to superintend the turning of the San Diego River to make it 
del)()ueh into False Bay. His description of the voyage down 
and of the appearance of the town of San Diego at that period, 
in rhocnixianay are among the funniest things he ever wrote. 
He met Judge Ames, and has this to say about him: **I fell 
in convei'sation with Judge Ames, the talented, good-hearted, 
but eccentric editor of the San Diego Herald. ... I found 
'the Judge' exceedingly agreeable, urbane and well informed, 
and obtained from him much valuable information regarding 
San Diego.'' Ames appears to have proposed to Derby almost 
inuniHliately to take charge of his paper for two weeks, while 
he made one of his frequent trips to San Francisco. Ames and 
Derby had probably met in San Francisco. At least, it is quite 
certain they were acquainted, for Derby had been in San Diego 
durin*r the preceding April, on business connected with the 
work on the river, and at that time visited the Masonic Lodge, 
of which order they were both mem])ers. He was undoubtedly 
well accjuainted with Derby's reputation as a writer, as his 
sketches had appeared in the San Francisco papers over the pen 
names of 'Mohn Phoenix" and ''Stpiibob." Derby readily fell 
in with the proposal, doubtless fon^seeing opportunities for no 
end of fun. The situation is developed thus in the Herald-. 

Ill his issue of August 13th, Ames said: 

Our Absence. — Wo shall leave on the first steamer for San 
Francisco, to be absent abont two weeks. A friend of acknowl- 
< <lge(l ability and literary acqnirements, will occupy the **old 
arm chair" during our absence. 

I)»Mby writes, in his letter to a San Francisco paper: 

Lo, / am an editor! Hasn't Anics gone to San Francisco 
(with this very letter in his pocket), leaving a noti<;e in his 
last edition, *'that during his absence an able literary friend 
will assume his position as editor of the JJeraW, " and am I^ 
not that able literary friend? (Heaven save the mark). "YouM 



GOING BACK ON BIGLER 307 

better believe it/^ I've been writing a 'Meader'' and funny 
anecdotes all day . . . and such a *Meader'' and siwh anec- 
dotes. I'll send you the paper next week, and if you don't al- 
low that there's been no suoh publication, weekly or serial, 
since the days of the ** Bunkum Flagstaff^* I'll crawfish^ and 
take to reading Johnson 's Dictionary. 

In the Ilrrald be made the following announcement: 

Next week, with the Divine assistance, a new hand will bo 
applied to the bellows of this establishment, and an intensely 
interesting issue will possibly be the result. The paper will 
be published on Wednesday evening; and, to avoid confusion, 
the crowd will please form in the plaza, passing four abreast 
by the City Hall and Herald office, from the galleiy of which 
Johnny will hand them their papers. **E pluribu,H unum/* (»r 
**A word to the wise is hasiante.^^ 

Ames neglected to ask what Derby's politics were, or to give 
instructions respecting the policy of the pa[)er during his 
absence. The result was disastrous, for Derby immediately 
changed its politics from Democratic to Whig. The mingling 
of fun and seriousness in his political leaders of this time is 
inimitable. He sometimes mixed up the two gubernatorial can- 
didates, Waldo and Bigler, ref(»rring to them as **Baldo and 
Wigler,'' or ^^Wagler and Bildo.^' 

**01d Bigler,-' he declares, ** hasn't paid the people of this 
county anything for supporting him (though judging ])y the 
tone of the Inchpcndi nt l^rrss, he has been liberal enough 
above). We think therefore they will do precisely as if he had, 
— vote for a better man.'' 

Again : 

Frank, our accomplished compositor, who belongs to the 
lighting wing of the Unterrified Democracy, ** groans in spirit 
and is troubled,'^ as he sets up our heretical doctrines and opin- 
ions. He says ''the Whigs will be delighted with the paper 
this week. ' * 

We hope so. We know several respectable gentlemen who arf- 
Whigs, and feel anxious to delight them, as well as our Demo- 
cratic friends (of whose approval we are confident), and all 
other sorts and conditions of men, always excepting Biglerites 
and Abolitionists. Ah! sighs the unfortunate Frank, but what 
will Mr. Ames say when he gets back? Haven't the slightest 
idea; we shall probably ascertain by reading the first Uerahi 
published after his return. Meanwhile, we devoutlv hope that 
event will not take place before we've had a chance to give 
Mr. Bigler one blizzard on the subjects of ** Water-front ex- 
tension,'' and ''State Printing." We understand these schenu;^ 
fully, and are inclined to enlighten the public of San Diego with 
regard to them. Ah! Bigler, my boy, old is J. B. but cunning, 
sir, and devilish fit/. Phoenix is after you, and you 'd better 
pray for the return of the editor de facto to San Diego, while 



308 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

yet there is time, or you're a goner, as far as this county is 
concerned. 

On 8ei)t ember 17th, Derby says that Ames had promised to 
writx^ to the Herald regularly. **We present to our readers 
this week the only communieation we have received from him 
for publication, since his departure. It contains the speeches 
of William Waldo, advocating his own election ; the remarks 
made by the Judge himself before the Railroad meeting, in 
favor of San Diego as the Western terminus; and the political 
principles in full of John Bigler. Apart from these matters of 
interest, it may be considered in some respects a model commu- 
nication, for it contains no personal alhusions whatever, nor 
anything that could cause a blush on the cheek of the most mod- 
est maiden, or wound the feelings of the most sensitive or fas- 
tidious. As a general thing, it may be considered the most 
entirely unexceptionable article the worthy Judge ever com- 
posed. Here it is: 

''Letter from J. J. Ames, Esq., for the San Diego Herald." 

(A l)lank space.) 

But although Ames was strangely silent for a time, he did 
write Derby, at last, protesting against his policy. This letter 
was not received, however, until after the election, and remem- 
bering this fact it is interesting to note how Derby treated it: 

We have received by the Goliahj an aflfectingr letter from 
Judge Ames, beseeching us to return to the fold of Democracy 
from whicli he is inclined to intimate we have been straying. 
Is it possible that we have been laboring under a delusion — 
and that Waldo is a Wliig! W'hy! lorl How singularl But anx- 
ious to atone for our past errors, willing to please tlie taste 
of tlie Editor, and above all, ever solicitous to be on the strong 
side, we gladly abjure our former opinions, embrace Democracy 
with ardor, slap her on the back, declare ourselves in favor 
of erecting a statue of Andrew Jackson in the Plaza, and to' 
prove our sincerity, run today at the head of our columns, a 
Democratic ticket for 1855, which we hope will please the 
most fastidious. Being rather hard uj) for the principles for 
our political faith, we have commenced the study of the back 
numbers of the Democratic Bevieu\ and finding therein that 
** Democracy i.s ihc supremacy of man over his accidents/* we 
hereby express our contempt for a man with a sprained ankle, 
and unmitigated scorn for anybody who may be kicked by a 
mule or a woman. That's Democratic, ain't it? Oh, we un- 
derstand tlieae things — Bless your soul. Judge, w^e're a Demo- 
crat. 

The ticket which he ^^ran up'' was as follows: 

Democratic State Nominations. 
Subject to the Decision of the State Democratic Conven- 
tion, May, 1855. For Governor, John Bigler. For Lieutenant- 
Governor, Samuel Purdv. 



COMMENTS ON ELECTION 309 

Concerning the Whig ticket he says: 

The ** Phoenix Ticket'' (jenerally, appears to give general 
satisfaction. Jt was nurely put forward suggestively, and not 
being the result of a clique or convention, the public are at 
perfect liberty to make such alterations or erasures as they 
may think proper. 1 ho])e it may meet with a strong sup- 
port on the day of election; but should it meet with defeat, I 
shall endeavor to bear the inevitable mortification that must 
result with my usual equanimity. 

Like unto the great Napoleon after the battle of Water- 
loo, or the magnauimous Boggs after his defeat, in the guber- 
natorial campaign of Missouri, 1 shall fold my arms with tran- 
quillity, and say either '^CUst fini/* or **0h shaw, I know'd it!*' 

The Whig ticket cnrried the county, Init the Deniocrnts car- 
ried the state. His connnents upon the result of the election 
are interesting: 

Seivs of the t\'r(k. — We pul>lish this week the gratifying 
intelligence, sohrc la izqiiicrcia (over the left), of the trium- 
phant re-election of Jolm liigler to the chief magistracy of 
this commonwealth. The voice of the Democracv has been 
heard, pealing in thunder tones throughout the length and 
breadth of the State, waking the echoes on Mokelumne Hill, 
growling in sub-bass from the Han Joaquin {Be publican), re- 
verberating among the busy and crowded streets of Monterey, 
and re-echoed from the snow-capped summits of San Bernar- 
dino, w^ith extensive sliouts of Kxtension and John Higler for- 
ever! While wo of San J)i(»go, through the culpable negligence 
of the Goliah (which put the Voice aboard but left it at 
San Pedro), have gone on unhearing and unheeding and voted 
for William Waldo, just as if nothing extraordinary was taking 
place. Many reasons are assigned by tiie Independent Press 
of San Francisco, and our Wiiig exchanges, for tiie election 
of Bigler. I am inclintd to attribute it principally to the de- 
feat of Waldo, and the fact that the San Diefjo Herald took 
no active part in the CUibcinatorial election. Had Waldo been 
successful, or our course been of another character, there is 
every reason to suj)j>ose that the result would have been diflfer- 
ent. But "whatever is, is right,'' as the old gentleman sweet- 
ly remarked, when he ch(>p])e(l oflf the end of his nose with a 
razor, in an endeavor to kill a flv that had lit thereon while ho 
was shaving. '^Tiiere is a I'rovidence that shapes our ends 
rough — hew them as we niay. " Governor liigler is still 
Govern(tr Bigler, tin re Ml be no Kx. to his name (unless it be 
ex-tension) for the next two years; the people are satisfied, he 
is gratified, and T am delighted, and the Lord know^s that it 
makes very little difference to me individually, or the peofjle 
of this county at large, whether the water front of San Fran- 
cisco remains unaltered, or is extended to Contra Costa. San 
Diego boasts a far finer harbor at present than her wealthier 
rival, and when that of the latter is entirely filled up. it will 
be more generally known and appreciated. **It's an ill wind 
that blows nobody any good." If this election should, how- 
ever indirectly, cause San Diego to assume its proper position 
as the first commercial city of California, I shall reverence 



310 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

the name of John Bigk-r forever, and I will bestow that hon- 
ored appellation upon my youngest child, and have it engraved 
upon a piece of leather or other suitable material, and sos- 
pended about that tender infant 's neck, until such time as he 
shall be old enough to learn and love the virtues of his hon- 
orrd OodKire. 

Derby never wrote anything more delicious than his account 
of the combat (which did 7iot occur) between himself and Ames 
ui)on the latter 's return, when **we held 'the Judge' down over 
the press by our nose (which we had inserted between his teeth 
for that purpose)/' until '*we discovered that we had been 
laboriuf^ under a 'misunderstanding,' and through the amicable 
intervention of the pressman, who thrust a roller between our 
faces (which gave the whole affair a very different complexion), 
the matter was finally adjusted on the most friendly terms.'* 
The people of San Diego took the change of politics of the 
Herald rather seriously, greatly to Derby's delight. One old 
gentleman, still living, admits that he hurried to the Herald 
office and paid a year's subscription in the belief that the change 
was genuine. There was quite a little speculation as to **what 
Ames would do to Derb\' when he got back," and Derby played 
upon this apprehension and purposely let it be understood that 
he was awaiting Ames's return in trembling terror. Thus,. 
he savs: 

Though this is but my second bow to a San Diego audience, 
I presume it to bo my last appearance and valedictory, for 
the editor will doubtless arrive before another week elapses, 
the gun w^ill be removed from my trembling grasp, and the 
Herald will resume its great aims, and lieavy firing, and I hope 
will discharge its debt to the public with accuracy, and pre- 
cision. Meanwhile '*The Lord be with you." **Be virtuous 
and you will be happy.'' 

The friendly relations })etween Ames and Derby were never 
broken, and the combat which Der})y describes was purely 
imaginary. The editor was a very large man, and had a rep- 
utation as a fire eater, while the lieutenant was small, and such 
a combat would have been a very unequal affair. Ames's own 
comments, in the first number after his return, show that, if 
he did not entirely relish the joke, he n^eoneiled himself to 
bear it: 

Turned Vp Affain! Here we are again I Phoenix has played 
the '^dcvil" during our absence, but he has done it in such a 
good humor(*<l niannrr, that we have not a word to say. He 
has (lone things which he ought not to have done, and has left 
undone things which ho ought to have done; but a? what evil 
he has done cannot })e undone, we mav as well ''dry up"" 
and "let it slide." 



PUBLICATION OF "PHOENIXIANA" 311 

He has abused Captain Wright, and like David of scripture 
memory, he has killed off the Goliah, lie has abused our noble 
friend, CJovernor Bigler, but as the people in this region con- 
sidered it only a faint echo of the Independent (?) Preas of San 
Francisco, it had a contrary effect from that intended, and 
we are perfectly satisfied with the result. Notwithstanding 
the great hue-and-cry throughout the State, that Gov. Big- 
ler was the father of the ** Extension Scheme,'' and every 
imaginable outrage against the rights of the people, and that 
hired emissaries were sent down here from San Francisco, to 
stir up discord in the ranks of the Democracy, Waldo got but 
about thirty majority in the county — and these votes were 
all cast in one precinct. Well, it's all over, Bigler is Gov- 
ernor, and the country is safe for the next two years, at least. 

The files of the Herald give incontrovertible proof of the 
friendship which continued to exist between these two men, so 
lon«r as they both lived. In 1855, Ames compiled Phoenixiana 
and superintended its pu])lication. This was done against 
Derby's judgment, he apparently thinking the matter too 
ephemeral for such a setting. It is possible that he also doubted 
Ames's competency, and if so, he was justified, for a more slop- 
pily gotten-up book has seldom been issued. Notwithstanding 
this, the naive humor and exfpiisite drollery with which it 
abounds made it a success and todav it is a classic. It was witli 

« 

considerable pride that Ames announced, in 1859, that he had 
re-engaged the services of 'Mohn IMioenix" to write for the 
Herald exclusivelv. 

The fun which Derby had while conducting the Herald, aside 
from the famous political bouleversfmeut, has received too lit- 
tle attention. In his first number, he added to the editorial col- 
umn, under the name of Ames: '*Slightlv assisted bv IMioenix." 
He had fun with ex-Governor McDougal. who clianced to visit 
the citv: 

DisUnf/uishid Vittitors. — His ex-Excellency, the Hon. John 
McDougal, and Col. J. B. Wells, from San Francisco, have ar- 
rived among us on business, which will detain them until 
the arrival of the next steamer (as they have no other means 
of getting away). 

The (lovernor looks as hale, hearty and roseate as ever: 
don^t think Bigler stands much chance of election, and wouldn't 
be quite inconsolable if he should be defeated. He has ]^OQn 
engaged in a theological and polemical controversy with the 
Rev. Dr. Reynolds since his arrival, in which they have had 
it "Nip and Tuck,'' the Gov. taking an occasional *'Nip'' 
to clear his mind and fortify his spirits as '* Friar Tuck" 
would get a little advantage in the argument. At their last 
sitting, the discussion turned upon the '* Divinity of the Scrip- 
tures," and was closed by a remark of the Governor's, *'that 
the Bible (like his adversary's nose), was a good deal read/' 

Governor McDougal goes to the Flaya today to wait for the 
Northerner to take him to San Francisco. The Gov. ex- 



312 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

j>re88es himself much gratified with his visit; and we are pleased 
to hear that it is his intention to purchase an elegant man- 
sion lately erected at New Town, bring his family here in the 
spring, and make San Diego his permanent residence. He will 
devote himself to the profession of the law, and will be a 
most valuable acquisition to our bar. 

The Herald having received a letter from the resident phy- 
sician of the Stockton Insane Asylum, asking for a copy of the 
paper, Derby says he will send it, and anxiously inquires 
whether two could not be used? He also asks whether the idea 
of sending for the Herald was the doctor's or the patient's; 
and if the latter, *' they 're sensible to the last," ** there's 
method in their madness," and *'they ought immediately to be 
discharged, every mother's son of them." 

Derby was fond of San Francisco, and his writings abound 
with allusions to it. This remark mav aid somewhat in the 

« 

appreciation of the following: 

The Press of San Francisco. — The steamer of the Ist from San 
Francisco brought no papers, none whatever — Some three or 
four weeks since, two little papers, called, we believe, the *' Alia 
California*' and the ** Herald/* wore published regularly in 
that village, and we used occasionally to receive them. They 
were made ])rincipally of excerpts from the San Diego Herald, 
and we cannot but regret that the failure of the Goliah, and 
the uncertainty of the mails, preventing our paper reaching 
them with its customary regularity, should have caused their 
publication to be discontinued. 

San Francisco is a place of little business or importance, but 
in a large city like this, country intelligence is occasionally 
amusing, and should either of the above papers be republished 
or a new j)re8S started in San Franrisco, we shall be willing to 
exchange. We are just informed that two little political sheets 
called the *^ Commercial Adveriiser/* and the '* Placer Times and 
Transcript/* are occasionally published yet in San Francisco. 
Ah, we dare say; we have never seen them, however. Willing 
to encourage the humble efforts of any individuals if exerted 
in a proper direction, we shall not object to an exchange with 
either of these little affairs, if they think proper to request it. 

While tlie work on tlie San Diego River was progressing, he 
allowed liimsolf the luxury of a few jibes about it. Upon his 
arrival, he wrote: 

Here 1 saw I^ieut. Derby [himself], of the Topograph- 
ical Engineers, an elderly gentleman of emaciated appearance 
and serious east of features. Constant study and unremitting at- 
tention to his laborious duties have reduced him almost to a 
skeleton, but there are not wanting those who say that an un- 
r<<]uitMl nttachment in his earlier days is the cause of his 
careworn appearance. 

He was sent out from Washington some months since **to 
dam the San Diego River," and he informed me with a deep 



TURNING THE RIVER 



A littlo later he noted tlint: "The report that Lieut. Derby 
has sent to San Francisco for a lathe, to be used in turning the 
San Diego River is, we understand, entirely without foundation, ' ' 

The Indians at work on the river behave well and shovel 
with great ardor con amore. There are nt preseot 47 of them 
at work, anJ 50 more are expected early in the week. They 
are under the control of Mr. Conroy and Charles Gage, over- 
seers, and their own chiefs, Maonelito and old Toin&s. Tents 




LIEUTENANT GEORGE H. 



have been pitched for them, and with an nnlimited anpply of 
beans, and the flesh of bulls (a burnt offering they do not des- 
piae), they are aa happy as circunistanceB will admit, and "doing 
aa well as could ho expected." 

The shanty occupied by the workmen on the San Diego 
Bivcr has been chriatencd "The Phoenix Hotel," out of com- 
pliment to the brevet editor of the lian Diego Herald. 



i 



314 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

One more iiuotation from his writhigs must suffice. In 1856. 
Colonel Warren, seen-tary of the California State Agricultural 
Society, invited Derby to deliver an oriprinal i)oem at the annual 
meeting of the society, in September. Derby accepted the invi- 
tation by letter, and wrote the following as a sample of what 
he could do: 

Here's to the land of potatoes and oarrots, 

Whose banks grow wild, rich baron and parrots; 

Where each apple and pear a dollar apiece is, 

And a man may devour just as much as he ])loaH('s (Spoken — 

if he*s the money to pay for them.) 
Where the soil is teeming with vegetable treasures. 
And a pumpkin ten feet in circumference measuns; 
Where to root up a turnip, an ox employ* d is; 
By each laborer a very large salary enjoyed is; (77//// on 

the word celery) 
And kind Colonel Warren with interest watches 
The growth of parsley and marrowfat squashes. 
And stirs up the farmers, and gives them rules of action and 

incentives to exertion, and constantly teaches 
How they ought not to let Oregon get ahead of them, but 

establish nurseries at once, where they could raise at 

very trifling expense, all kinds of grafted fruit, 

pears and apples, and cherries, and the most delirious 

peaches, &c, &c, &c. • 

Listening to the stories told about him by old San Diegans, 
it becomes clear that Derby was an incorrigible joker and 
player of pranks. One lady recalls that, having one day- 
climbed into an empty crockery cask, for fun, Derby sli]>ped 
up and started the (task rolling with her, so that her dress was 
sadly torn on the projecting nails. She and her hus])and lived 
in ui)stairs rooms at the old Gila House, and Derby used to 
come into the room below, when he knew she was alone, and 
rap on the ceiling with his cane, to frighten her. Once while 
he and ^Mrs. Derby were calling on this lady and all sitting on 
the hotel piazza, Derby climbed upon the head of an em[)ty 
barrel and began to make a burlesque speech. While he was 
in the midst of this, waving his arms and talking loud, the head 
of the barrel suddenly fell in with him and he took a tumble, 
to the great amusement of his audience. The house in which 
he and .Mrs. Derbv lived is still standing. He had a verv 
remarkable m(*mory, could recite chapter after chapter of the 
Bible, and. after hearing a sermon, could repeat it from begin- 
ning to end. It is said that he r.xpected the appointment to 
make the Pacific Railroad survey and was gn^atly disappointed 
when he did not receive it. 



DEATH OF DERBY 315 

III later ytjai-s he was employed in the erection of li^^hthouses 
on th(» coasts of Florida and Alabama. He died May 15, 1861, 
in the prime of his yeai-s, and his friend Ames died at San 
Bernardino two months later. His son. (ieor»re Mcriellan 
Derhv, is now a lientenant-colonel in the armv. 




ClIAPTKR XIV 

ABORTIVE ATTEMPT TO ESTABLISH NEW SAN DIEGO 

IIE site of old San Diego was by no means 
favora])le for a seapoit town. The presidio 
was located on the hill above the river, at the 
outlet of ^lission Valley, merely because the 
place could be easily fortified and defended 
against the savapes. Old Town grew up 
upon the Hat below Presidio Hill because it 
was originally only an overflow fnmi the 
garrison itself. La Playa took on some size and importance and 
flourished for a time because it lay close to deep water, but its 
topogra[)hy was such as to offer no encouragement to the growth 
of a large city. San Diego simply could not have come into 
being with anything like its present consequence and future 
promise where the Spanish j)lanted the seed of the city in 1769, 
nor where the seed was wafted and took root, on l*oint Loma, 
in the. orief day of ^Mexican dominion. 

These conditions wei*e sure to become manifest when men of 
energy and ambition sliould arrive and begin to study the pos- 
sibilities of the region. Such men came with the American 
flag and but little time elapsed before they were i>lanning a new 
San Diego at a far more eligible point on the shores of the 
beautiful bay. And yet, though these men had the judgment to 
choose the best spot for the city and the imagination to behold 
its possibilities, they lacked the constructive capacity re<[uired 
for its building. Ilence, their effort goes into history as an 
unsuccessful effort to take advantage of a genuine opportunity. 
Andrew B. Gray, who served as surveyor with the boundary 
commission, and who was afterward a major-general in the 
Confederate Army, is entitled to the distinction of having first 
selected the present site of San Diego. In June, 1849, the offi- 
cials of the survey camped near the spot where the army bar- 
racks are now located, on what is now II Street. It occurred 
to (iray at that time that this was the true location for such a 
city as would inevitably develop in connection with this great 
natural sea])ort. He discussed the matter freelv and found 
sev(M-al San Diegans who indorsed his conception, but the enter- 
j)rise recjuinMl (*apital. 



GRAY FORMS A SYNDICATE 317 

In February, 1850, William Heath Davis came to town and 
Gray promptly laid his scheme before him. Davis thouirht well 
of it and a<i:reed to co-operate. On March 16, an aj2:reement was 
made by which Gray, Davis, Jose Antonio A<ruirre, ^Iip:iiel de 
Pedrorena, and William C. Ferrell entered into a partnership 
for the purpose of developin<r a new townsite. Before the 
papers were si«:ned, however, a vessel arrived at La Playa with 
materials for the new (government buildinp:, in char^re of quar- 
termaster and commissary for the Southern Department, Lieu- 
tenant Thomas D. Johns. Gray and his associates saw that the 
location of the provernment buildings at La Playa would make 
.it very difficult to attract population to their townsite. Hence, 
they lost no time in waiting: upon Lieutenant Johns and ur.iring 
the advanta<res of the new location upon him. They artrued so 
convincingly that Johns reshi[>ped the matei'ials which had been 
landed at La Playa and brought the vess(*l across the bay, 
anchoring off the new townsite. Johns evidently joined the 
syndicate, for he received one of the eighteen shares. The oth- 
ers were distributed four each to Gray, Davis, Aguirre and 
Pedrorena, and one to Ferrell, the attorney. Thid(*r the agree- 
ment, Davis undertook to build a wharf and warehouse, retain- 
ing the ownership of the land and improvements. The scheme 
seems to have been very well '^put up,'' combining capital, 
influence, and the necessary expert knowledge in engineering. 

On March 18, 1850, the associates were granted the land for 
which they applied to the city, the deed being sign(»d by Alcalde 
Thomas W. Sutherland. The tract contained 160 acres, was 
bounded on the east bv what is now Front and on the north bv 
what is now D Streets and cost Ji^2,304 — a nice little townsite 
which is now worth considerablv more than it was 56 vears ago. 
It was long supposed that it included the adjacent tide lands, 
lying on the bay shore between the lines of high and low water, 
but this const nu*t ion proved to be incorrect. The terms of the 
grant called for ^^a new port,'' and stipulated that a wharf and 
warehouse should be built within 18 months. 

New San Diego certainly started with bright prospects. The 
country was prosperous, had recently become a part of the 
United States, and was receiving constant recruits in the way 
of American settlers. The gold boom in the north was at full 
tide and people were nishing to California from all parts of 
the world. It would seem the new town should have depop- 
ulated Old Town and La Playa. attracted a reasonable share 
of the newconiei-s. aiul quickly establishcHl itself on a sure 
foundation. 

Toward the end of the summer, the brig Cffhrll arrived at 
San Fran(*isco from Portland, Maine, loaded with lumber and 



318 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

(•rirrii-d also eight or ten houses already framed and a quantity 
of bricks. Davis bought this cargo and sent the ship at once 
to San Diego, where all but 80,000 feet of the lumber was used. 
The wharf and warehouse were begun in September, 1850, and 
finished in August of the following year. The wharf extended 
from the foot of Atlantic Street for some distance, then turned 
and extended at a right angle to the stream. Its total length 
was 600 feet, and with the w^arehouse it cost about $60,000. 
The l)arracks were built in 1851, on a block given for the pur- 
pose, and two companies of troops from the mission moved in. 

The first house was built by Mr. Davis — one of the framed 
houses sent on the Cyhell. It was on State Street, between G 
and II. About 1855, this house was purchased by Captain 
Knowles and removed to its present location on 11th Street, 
between K and L. Davis also put up a number of other build- 
ings, among them one at the corner of State and F Streets 
known for years as the **San Diego Hotel.** Gray also put up 
a house, which is still standing, on State Street between H 
and I and was known as the '^Hermitage.*' Some array oflScers 
also bought lots and built houses, among them Captain Nathan- 
iel Lyon. A short time before the Civil War, a number of these 
houses were removed to Old Town, being either moved bodily, 
or taken down and re-erected. 

The coming of the Herald in May, 1851, was an important 
event. At that time, the foUow^ing were in business at new 
San Diego, as shown by the advertisements in the Herald: 

George F. Cooper, general merchandise, corner 4th and Cali- 
fornia Streets. The office of the Herald was upstairs over this 
store. 

Ames and Pendleton, lumber and merchandise, California 
Street. 

Slack & Morse, general merehau'^ise. 

The Boston House, Slack & Morse. 

J. Judson Ames was the notary public. 

On July 31, 1851, the Herald states that Davis's new wharf 
would be completed in about a week. This wharf w*as used by 
the irovernment for several years, and was for a time a profit- 
able investment. The government buildings w-ere designed as 
a military storehouse and depot, and formed the government 
de|)ot of supplies for several posts. The supplies were senl out 
by shij), unloaded at Davis's wharf, and sent out by wagon 
trains to Tejon, Yuma, Mojave, San Luis Rey, Chino, Santa 
Ysal)rl, and other places. 

One of the difficulties with which the new town had to con- 
tend from the start was the absence of fresh water. The oflR- 
oei's sent a water-train to the San Diego River, near Old Town. 
evpi'v day. ^Fajor MeKinstry contracted with a Mr. Goeus. 



A THREE CORNERED FIGHT 



319 



who had sunk a wl'II at La 1'hi.Vii, to do the same at tho iimv 
town. Up sunk about 'iOU ffut on the govi>riiiiieiit 's Iniid, and 
then, for some unknown reason, suddenly abandoned the job 
and (|nit the country. However, it was not long until a good 
• supply of fresh water was stnick near the location of the pi-cs- 
ent courthouse, Front and B Streets, and soon after at State 
and F, where Mr. Horse had sunk a well, and by Captain Sher- 
man on his new addition. The future of the new town now 
seemed assured. 




HOUSE KNOWN AS "THE HERMITAGE" BUILT BY LIEUTENANT GRAY 



That this opinion did not prevail in every quarter. how<-ver, is 
elear. The pi^iple of La I'laya were naturally disappointed at los- 
ing the wharf and government buildings and the access of busi- 
ness and population going with them. Old Town was the ennnty 
seat and the largest eentor of wealth and population, but began 
to fear the loss of that distinction. This three-eornen-d fight 
eontiniiiMl for some .vears, and it was difficult to prophesy which 
would win out. People in other places also had opinions. Thus, 
the Kan Franeiseo Alta California said in September. ISolr 
"The establishment of the new town at the head of the bay was 
certainly a most disastrous speculation, an immense amount 
having been sunk in the operation." 



320 HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 

But the **in()st unkindest cut of air' was that of Bartlett, who 
saw the place in February, 1852, and wrote thus: ** Three miles 
south of San Diego is another town near the shore of the bay, 
which was surveyed and plotted by ^Ir. Gray, U. S. surveyor 

to the boundary commission, while on duty here 

There is no business to bring vessels here, except an occasional 
one with government stores. There is no water nearer than the 
San Diego River, three miles distant. Efforts indeed are being 
made to find it with an artesian well ; but with what success 
remains to be seen. There is no timber near, and wood has to 
be l)rought some eight or ten miles. Without wood, water, or 
arable land, this place can never rise to importance.** 

At the time of the Indian uprising, late in 1851 and early 
in 1852, considerable anxiety was felt for the safety of the gov- 
ernment stores at new San Diego, it being suggested that the 
depot would be a natural point of attack for the loot-loving sav- 
ages, and the number of regular troops being small. Levi M. 
Slack was one of the victims of the massacre at Warner's ranch. 
^Fr. ^Moi'se was absent in INIassachusetts at the time and their 
store remained closed until his return, in May, 1852. It does 
not appear that the uprising had any lasting effect upon the 
new settlement. 

About this time there was a considerable settlement at new 
San Diego of immigrants who came by the Southern route, by 
way of El Paso and Yuma. At Warner's ranch they divided, 
part going to Los Angeles and part coming here. In October, 
1887. while some laborers were digging a culvert on B Street 
Ix^tween 7th and 8th, they found an old, forgotten graveyard 
and removed five coffins which were reinterred in the cemeter\\ 
E. W. ;Morse was of the opinion that these were graves of mem- 
bers of this party of immigrants, eight of whom died while they 
wore here. lie appeared not to know what had become of these 
]>e()ple, and it has been found impossible to ascertain who they 
were or whnt became of them. The best o])inion appears to be 
that they were a party of gold hunters who, after remaining 
long enough to recruit, went on to the northern diggings over- 
land or by ship. 

Strange as it may seem to us in view of what has since hap- 
pened, the new San Diego of Gray and Davis, in spite of the 
natural advantage of its site and the improvements which gave 
it the benefit of ship])ing facilities and irovernment headquar- 
ters, could not hold its own in the struggle for supremacy with 
old San Diego. Early in 1853. less than two years after the 
completion of the wharf, E. W. ^lorse and the Herald establish- 
ment had removed to the Old Town of the Spanish fathers. 
There is no doubt that this marks the date when the tide turned 
tlefinitely aw^ay from the new undertaking, though there was a 



THE MIDDLETOWN PROJECT 



321 



slight revival in 185!!, on account of army activities. Soon, 
howpvpr, the Civil War came on and the troops went East, leav- 
ing new Sau Diego to fall into decay. The wharf and ware- 
lionse ended ignominioiisly as fuel for the volunteers assembled 
there in the cold winter of 1861-2, and the toredos cleaned up 
the piles. Many years Inter (1886) Mr. Davis obtained $6,000 




for the loss of his wharf. The site is now occupied bv the Santa 
Pe wlinrf. 

The "Middletown" tract of 687 acres was the scene of au 
enter[)riRe inaugurated bj' the prospects of new San Diego. It 
was granted by Alcalde Joshua H. Bean to Oliver S. Witherby, 
Wm. 11. Emory, Cave J. Couts, Thomas W. Sutherland, Atkins 
S. Wright, Agostin Haraszthy, Jose Maria Estudillo, Juan Ban- 



322 



HISTORY OF SAN DIEGO 



dini, Charles P. Noell, and Henry Clayton, on ]May 27, 1850. 
It became dormant with the new town, but in later years revived 
and became valuable property, and there was a suit for its par- 
tition. It is now one of the most important additions in the 
new city. 

The true and endurinfr San Diej^o — the city of today and 
tomori^ow— 7does not date from 1850, nor is Andrew B. Gray its 
father. When Gray and his associates had ^rone and counted 
their labor lost, the sunny slope and the blue waters had yet 
many years to wait before the real founder and builder should 
arrive. 



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