Full text of "Home dissertations : an offering to the household for economical and practical skill in cookery, orderly domestic management, and nicety in the appointments of home : excerpts from favorite authors"

(LIBRARY j

( UNIVERSITY OF I

1IMAL

SWAIN'S BAKERY

^213 SUTTER STREET
SWAIN BROTHERS.

^i^u^e

fllflOGI'S BOUlhLiON

LIQUID EXTRACT OF BEEF

/"TO HAVE a happy invention is not sufficient. The simplicity with which
(d) "MAGGI'S &OUJLLON" can be used will quickly demonstrate it as
being as indispensable in the kitchen as^alt or pepper.

"MAGGI'S BOUILLON" is simply Liquid Extract of Beef, a teaspoonful
of which put into a cup of hot or cold water makes at once a. perfect "Beef Tea"
that sick or well will relish.

Two tablespoon fuls to a quart of water (adding vegetables, etc.), will make
a better Soup or Potage than hours spent over the fire by the finest cook.

A small quantity added to Gravies, Ragouts^ Stews, Roasts etc. , will improve
their quality to such an extent as will surprise one.

Unlike all other Extracts of Meat, "MAGGI'S BOUILLON" is extremely
palatable, does not need the addition of salt or pepper to make it so, can be used
by the most inexperienced, and will produce a better Broth or Soup than any first-
class cook can turn out otherwise. No soup-stock hereafter will be necessary, as
"MAGGI'S BOUILLON" is better and cheaper, more nutritious for the sick,
convalescent and healthy.

[ Bouillon with Fine Herbs
VARIETIES -j Plain Bouillon

i. Bouillon with Truffles
In 5-oz. and Quart bottles with glass stoppers

MORRIS NEWTON & GO.

AGENTS

CARBONE & MONTI

THE LEADING

FLORISTS

343 KEARNY ST. ^ 619^ VALENCIA ST.

TELEPHONE 903 TELEPHONE 6130

SAN KRANCISCO

Blanding Ave. Nursery

A LAMBDA

THE \VORLE>'S GREATEST RAILROAD

9518 Miles of Track

THE ONLY ROUTE - ,,.

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WITHOUT CHANGE

For maps, rates or other information, address

C. H. SPEERS, W. A. BISSELL,

Asst. Gen'l Passenger Agent General Passenger Agent

Room 61, Chronicle Building, San Francisco, Cal,

THE CALIFORNIA

BUSH ST., NEAR

SAN KRANCISCO, CAL.

THE ONLY STRICTLY EUROPEAN PLAN AND FIRE-PROOF
HOTEL IN THE CITY

IT IS A RECOGNIZED fact that San Francisco has made from time to time the greatest effort
to surpass all other cities in her Hotel accommodations, and it must be conceded that the acme

of perfection has now been reached. The California was opened December, 1890, and there is
nothing on the Pacific Coast, so far as artistic taste, elegance of appointments and lavish^expendi-
ture go, which can compare with it.

The California is unsurpassed in style of service by the best hotels of the United States.
Heretofore there has been no strictly European plan hotel in San Francisco. Select music every
evening in Restaurant between 6 and 8 P. M. Moderate rates.

A visit to this city is incomplete without seeing The California, unquestionably the most beauti-
ful and luxuriously furnished hotel in America.

A. F. KINZLER, MANAGER

PATENT ROLLER

FLOUR

Whitest and Best Flour in the market. Sells for

fifty cents [500.] per barrel more than

any other brand

HOME

DISSERTATIONS:

OFFERING TO THE HOUSEHOLD

FOR

ECONOMICAL AND PRACTICAL SKILL IN COOKERY,

ORDERLY DOMESTIC MANAGEMENT,

AND NICETY IN

THE APPOINTMENTS OF HOME.

EXCERPTS FROM FAVORITE AUTHORS,

COMPILED AND ILLUSTRATED BY

MRS. E. STEVENS TILTON.

V i I

SECOND EDITION

SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.

GOLDBERG, BOWEN & LEBENBAUM, PUBLISHERS

426 TO 432 PINE ST. AND 215-217 SUTTER ST.

1891

MRS. E. STEVENS TII,TON

THE OXFORD PUBLISHING Co.

3 East 14th St., New York

PREFACE.

presenting HOME DISSERTATIONS, it has been our
aim to embody every want, solve every dilemma, and
gratify every wish of a good housekeeper. The in-
formation endeavored to impart, valuable household re-
ceipts for plain and fancy cooking, French names of
all articles of food, and how to prepare them, varied
menus for all kinds of entertainments, etc., has been ob-
tained and arranged with no little effort.

GOLDBERG, BOWEN & LEBENBAUM

529

PURE, FRESH, DELICIOUS,

apd

ORDERS BY MAIL OR EXPRESS WILL RECEIVE
PROMPT ATTENTION,

iei STJ5TE ST., CHICAGO.

Branch of 803 Broadway, N. Y.

"And when night came, amidst the breathless Heavens, we'd guess what star should be our
home when love becomes immortal." * *

HOME.

Home! home! sweet, sweet home!

r "HE household is the home of the man, as well as .of the child. The
events that occur therein are more near and affecting to us than those which
are sought in senates and academies. Domestic events are certainly our
affairs. What are called public events may or may not be ours. If a man wishes to
acquaint himself with the real history of the world, with the spirit of the age, he must not
go first to the state-house or the court-room. The subtle spirit of life must be sought
in facts nearer. It is what is done and suffered in the house, in the constitution, in the
temperament, in the personal history, that has the profoundest interest for us," says Emer-
son, and adds: "Let us come, then, out of the public square, and enter the domestic precinct.
Let us go to the sitting room, the table-talk, and the expenditure of our contemporaries.
Does the household obey an idea ? Do you see the man, his form, genius, and aspira-
tion, in his economy? Is that translucent, thorough-lighted ? There should be nothing
confounding and conventional in economy, but the genius and love of the man so con-
spicuously marked in all his estate, that the eye that knew him should read his character
in his property, in his grounds, in his ornaments, in his every expense. A man's money
should not follow the direction of his neighbor's money, but should represent to him the
things he would willingliest do with it. I am not one thing and my expenditure another,
My expenditure is me. That our expenditure and our character are twain, is the vice of
society.

The progress of domestic living has been in cleanliness, in ventilation, in health, in
decorum, in countless means and arts of comfort, in the concentration of all the utilities
of every clime in each house. They are arranged for low benefits. The houses of the
rich are confectioners' shops, where we get sweetmeats and wine; the houses of the poor
are imitations of these to the extent of their ability. With these ends housekeeping is not
beautiful; it cheers and raises neither the husband, the wife, nor the child; neither the
host, nor the guest; it oppresses women. A house kept to the end of prudence is labo-
rious without joy; a house kept to the end of display is impossible to all but a few
women, and their success is dearly bought.

Let us understand, then, that a house should bear witness in all its economy that
human culture is the end to which it is built and garnished. It stands there under the
sun and moon to ends analogous, and not less noble than theirs. It is not for festivity, it
is not for sleep: but the pine and the oak shall gladly descend from the mountain to up-
hold the roof of men as faithful and necessary as themselves; to be the shelter always open
to good and true persons a hall which shines with sincerity, brows ever tranquil, and a

6 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

demeanor impossible to disconcert; whose inmates know what they want; who do not ask
your house how theirs should be kept. They have aims: they cannot pause for trifles.
The diet of the house does not create its order, but knowledge, character, action, absorb
so much life and yield so much entertainment that the refectory has ceased to be so curi-
ously studied. With a change of aim has followed a change of the whole scale by which
men and things were wont to be measured. Wealth and poverty are seen for what they
arc. It begins to be seen that the poor are only they who feel poor, and poverty consists
in feeling poor. The poor man's son is educated. There is many a humble house in every
city, in every town, where talent and taste, and sometimes genius, dwell with poverty and
labor.

Honor to the house where they are simple to the verge of hardship, so that the
intellect is awake and reads the laws of the universe, the soul worships truth and love,
honor and courtesy flows into all deeds."

" In the true marriage relation the independence of the husband and the wife is equal,
their dependence mutual, and their obligations are reciprocal." The hearts of married
people ought to be types of one another; a husband owes to his wife all the sentiment he
expects from her; and his happiness depends much more on what he is to her than what
she is to him."

" It is well for the women of the household to remember that pleasant homes are
strong antidotes to the practice of looking for enjoyment abroad; for relaxation and rec-
reation will be indulged in somehow by most men, and happy are they who find in the
home circle the diversion they need. A lively game, an interesting book read aloud, or
in musical families, a new song to be practiced, will furnish pastime that will make an
evening enjoyable to all. Our homes should be warm, bright, home-like, and cozy. Every
corner should appear as if somebody made it an especial haunt and had just gone out.

" Let all the members of households ever remember that at home there should be
peace and unity, though all the world be at war. Those bound by the ties of kindred
should uphold each other, and bear with each others foibles and hide them from strang-
ers' eyes. Those who dwell under the same home-roof must fight under one flag or be
defeated. Policy, if not good feeling, should bind together the members of every
household."

I honor that man whose ambition it is, not to win laurels in the State or the army, not
to be a jurist or a naturalist, not to be a poet or a commander, but to be a master of liv-
ing well, and to administer the offices of master or servant, of husband, father, and friend.
Cut it requires as much breadth of power for this as for those other functions, as much,
or more, and the reason for the failure is the same. I think the vice of our housekeep-
ing is, that it does not hold man sacred. The vice of government, the vice of education,
the vice of religion, is one with that of private life. Let religion cease to be occasional;
and the pulses of thought that go to the borders of the universe, let them proceed from
the bosom of the household.

These are 'he consolations, these are the ends to which the household is instituted

HOME. 7

and the rooftree stands. If these were sought, and in good degree attained, can the
State, can commerce, can climate, can the labor of many for one, yield anything better or
half so good ?

Beside these aims, Society is weak, and the State an intrusion. I think the heroism
which at this day would make on us the impression of Epaminondas and Phocion must
be that of a domestic conqueror. He who shall bravely and gracefully subdue this Gor-
gon of Convention and Fashion, and show men how to lead a clean, handsome, and
heroic life amid the beggarly elements of our cities and villages; who shall teach
me how to eat my meat and take my repose, and deal with men, without any shame
following, will restore the life of man to splendor, and make his own name dear to
all history.

Beyond its primary ends of the conjugal, parental, and amicable relations, the house-
hold should cherish the beautiful arts and the sentiments of veneration. Certainly, not
aloof from this homage to beauty, but a strict connection therewith, the house will come
to be esteemed a Sanctuary. The language of a ruder age has given to common law the
maxim that every man's house is his castle: the progress of truth will make every house
a shrine."

" The happy home. ' It is just as possible to keep a calm house as a clean house, a
cheerful house as an orderly house, a happy home as a furnished house, if the heads set
themselves to do so. Where is the difficulty of consulting each other's weakness, as well
as each other's wants; each other's tempers, as well as each other's health; each other's
comfort, as well as each other's character? Oh! it is by leaving the peace at home to
chance, instead of pursuing it by system, that so many homes are unhappy. It deserves
notice, also, that almost anyone can be courteous and forbearing and patient in a
neighbor's house. If anything go wrong, or be out of time, or be disagreeable there, it is
made the best of, not the worst; even efforts are made to excuse it, and to show that it is
not felt; or, if felt, it is attributed to accident, not design; and this is not only easy, but
natural, in the house of a friend. I will not, therefore, believe that what is so natural in
the house of another is impossible at home, but maintain, without fear, that a
husband, as willing to be pleased at home, and as anxious to please as in his neighbor's
house; and a wife as intent on making things comfortable every day to her family as on
set days to her guests, could not fail to make their own home happy. Let us not evade
the point of these remarks by recurring to the maxim about allowances for temper, unless
we could prove that we gained anything good by giving way to it. Fits of ill-humor
punish us quite as much, if not more, than those they are vented upon; and it actually
requires more effort, and inflicts more pain to give them up, than would be requisite to
avoid them."

" The rapid increase of boarding-houses and hotels in all our great cities is attracting
much attention from those who study the various phases of American social life. The
increase is far greater than the natural increase of population would warrant, in many
cases homes are broken up and housekeeping abandoned, not from motives of economy,

HOME DISSERTATIONS.

but from sheer indolence and simply to avoid the management of the household and the
innumerable petty cares inseparable from any establishment, however small.

The boarding house as a temporary accommodation is useful, but it is hardly the place
in which to properly bring up children. The privacy of family life is not an enjoyment
which under natural conditions it would be. The delicate relations and expansion of
home do not exist, and the liens which hold the family together become lax. There is
but little distinction between its intercourse and that which it extends to acquaintances,
through lacking opportunities. We believe that the influence of boarding-house life has
been mischievous to American society, in weakening the home feeling and developing a
gregarious spirit. To live in a crowd has become a habit.

There are comparatively few people of the large cities who have the love of a country
home in their hearts, owing to what they consider its isolation. There is no "society'
there. They depend on others for their daily quota of happiness, and do not think of
drawing on themselves. This is nationally characteristic of both rich and poor.

The money which a family spends in two or three seasons at Newport, Saratoga or
Long Branch would buy a homestead, which, as an educator of manhood and womanhood,
would be worth more than any hotel or boarding-house " society " that ever existed.
Children would grow up with the trees and become natural, like them, instead of the poor
creatures one so often sees in " society." Family ties would become stronger, as well as
home virtues.

" To culti-
possess and to

" The desire
and therefore

' ' Keep noth-

ART AT HOME.

vate and exercise judiciously the Artistic sense, is to be a person of Taste. To

cultivate it in an extraordinary degree, is to be an Artist.

for simplicity and sincerity, and, by means of these, beauty, in our houses,

in the lives that we spend in them.

ing in your house but what you know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."

" \ RT decoration," "Art colors," "Art fabrics," "Art needle-

/~~\ work," and so on ; and, moreover, what is exactly

meant, when people say as I most earnestly wish they

would not that they "go in for High Art." The word seems

really to have lost the power of expressing what those who care

for it in its right meaning would have it express. Let us try to

get at that right meaning, and
learn to use it properly. "Art
decoration," "Art embroidery,"
and the like, are tautological
expressions. If such things ex-
ist at all, they must of necessity

belong to
it, just as
geography
and chem-
istry must
of neces-
sity be sci-
ence, and
belong to
it.

HOME DISSERTATIONS'.

'Lucy Crane, in her lectures on Art and the Formation of Taste, furthermore says:

" Many people think that ' High Art,' as they call it is inseparably associated with affec-
tation, and melancholy, and dull colors, and general darkness, and dirt, and discomfort;
this is certainly not the sort of thing I wish to advocate: the art that those first teachers
originated, is an art of simplicity, of cheerfulness and brightness, of comfort, cleanliness,
and hospitality, and is a help to good healthy living, and not a hindrance to it."

The distinction which has somehow arisen between "Color" and "Art color" is a quite
unreasonable one, and based on false ideas. If a color is of such a nature as to be
inadmissable in Art, it is no color at all, properly speaking; it is a stain, a dye, a pigment.
It is easy to trace these expressions back to their origin. They were invented by shop-
keepers, to characterize a kind of goods got up in a certain style to please that part of the
public that cares for fashion and novelty alone; and has no higher aims or desires, and
wishes to have none. So let us leave such expressions to their inventors, who, by bad
imitations of the good work of our time, seek to catch our fancy, careless or idle, as we
most of us are, or else too busy to pay any regard to such matters. There is, however, no
sort of lasting satisfaction in merely following blindly the fashion of the day, whether it be
in house decoration, or in coloring, or in dress, or in pictures; for it seems there is a
fashion even in these. Ideas hastily caught up, and adopted without reason and consider-
ation, must be shallow and worthless ones. The love of novelty is opposed to the pro-
duction of good art which is in its nature and constitution lasting, living, and in a sense
immortal: in the race for novelty, the last new thing runs down the one before it, only to
perish in its turn, because it deserves no better fate. But for those of us who care for
something more in our lives than fashion and novelty, it is worth while to examine into
the real nature and true meaning of Art, so as to possess ourselves of all the various
knowledge and pleasure it is capable of giving.

So, to guard against any misconception from the beginning, let me attempt to define
what Art is. The word in its original sense meant force, or strength, and it was applied
to mechanical work, and is so still. We speak of the art of weaving, the art of printing,
the florist's art, the art of cooking, and so on; and in these we mean to express the result
of man's putting forth his hand and operating on Nature; and Art in its widest sense has
come to be " human labor regulated by human design."

Art decorative, " The first spiritual want of a barbarous man," says Carlyle, " is
decoration." That want began to develop itself ages before the time of which we have
any certain record; and the same thing is still to be observed among tribes of savage men at
the present time. He the savage, the barbarous man scratches patterns on his weap-
ons, his paddles, his tools and utensils of all sorts, and on his own body as well; next he
begins to weave stuffs for his wearing, and to trace in their texture, patterns first geo-
metric, then imitations of animal and vegetable life in short, he learns to decorate
whatever he wears or uses, and to find pleasure in the object beyond its use, a pleasure of
the eye, a delight in Beauty; and so he gradually creates a new and wonderful thing the
Artistic Sense.

ART AT HOME. ir

I am sorry to say that in these later days of civilization we often see ornament dis-
tinctly hindering use. See to what a pass civilization has brought our fire-irons, things of
every-day use and necessity. A century or so ago they were lightly made, of a size and
shape to be held and used easily, and they did their work well; then, as luxury and osten-
tation increased, the poker, and the shovel, and the tongs became larger and heavier, so
as to look massive and handsome, and as if a good deal of money had been spent upon
them; their shape was altered to suit new and unreasonable notions of elegance they
began to be made of burnished steel and lacquer-work of a lustre easily tarnished -and
laboriously renewed; and finally they left off work altogether, being too fine for it, and
were obliged to be provided with a humble deputy to do it for them. Of the same kind
are candle-sticks that must be preserved like exotics under a glass shade, or call it ex-
tinguisher; curtain-poles so gilded that the real work must be done by iron ones hidden
behind; and cushions and footstools meant for repose, and to that end studded with hard
cold beads. Now such ornament as that is clear waste and folly, and wrong from the
very beginning.

The instinct for ornament in earlier stages of civilization is never found to lead to
such sacrifice. The savage does not so over-decorate his paddle, his knife, his tomahawk,
as to render it useless, and a real and capable workman or workwoman has the same
instinct; and to recur to what I said just now, here should come in the practical knowl-
edge, that I suppose we all of us possess in some direction and in some degree, and which
we should be proud of possessing.

An accomplished needlewoman rejects the highly ornamented and tasselled work-
basket with its tinselled implements; a practiced writer objects to a gilded and elaborate
inkstand and a gimcrack pen-holder; and a really clever amateur cook is not over-anxious
about the trimming of her apron, so that it is of stout material and the shape that will
best protect her dress. To expend labor in disguising use and falsifying material, shows
an utter misconception of Art and ignorance of Beauty. Ornament has come to be, in
these days, a thing of itself, whereas, as such, it has no real reason for existing. I arp not
speaking now of anything of the nature of a picture or statue. The idea has somehow
arisen that a thing, if called an ornament, however useless, cumbrous, and troublesome,
must be prized and taken care of. Now Mr. Morris says: " Nothing is ornamental unless
it is also useful."

This you will think at the first glance condemns all or most ornamental objects; but
on examination it is not so. It condemns groups of wax flowers under glass shades; it
condemns vast crochet antimacassars; it condemns glass fuchsias at the end of curtain-
poles; it condemns huge china pugs and parrots; it condemns all china and glass objects
which will not hold at need flowers or fruit, or other or more substantial things for which
china and glass objects were originally intended. I do not mean that we may not use
china, and glass, and metal, and wooden objects exclusively as ornaments, as their pecu-
liar beauty or rarity may lead us so to preserve them merely to be looked at, but they
should have been originally capable of fulfilling perfectly some function or other, or they

12 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

cannot be truly beautiful; and the aimlessness of their structure would give a feeble
worthless appearance, no matter how much painting and gilding or carving they have re-
ceived, or how much skill of hand has been expended on them.

We are accustomed to recognize the necessity for intelligence and knowledge in every
department of life but that which belongs to Beauty of Decoration, of form and color;
taste in these things is left to take care of itself.

We all readily allow that education and study go to form the literary taste, the musi-
cal taste, and even taste in food or wine; but the artistic taste is left to form itself.
Choice in form or color is usually quite unguided by any principle, and is by many sup-
posed to be unworthy of serious thought. We do not ask the book-seller to guide our
taste in reading, or the music-seller to form our taste in music; still less do we allow the
cook and the wine merchant the uncontrolled management of our table.

Yet the furnishing of a house in many, if not in all, important particulars is commonly
left to the upholsterer, or decorator as he prefers to be called; and as he, not working
with his own hands, takes no pleasure in the work, but has gain for his first object, so h's
only idea is to carry out what he supposes to be the prevailing style, so as to produce the
most show for the most money; and the result of this is likely to be a most unhappy one;
still people are content with it educated and refined people too and they live out their
lives complacently, surrounded by evidences of vulgarity and bad taste, at which they
would be horrified, if they had ever learned to appreciate them.

We have to consider Art as a world of itself, created out of Nature by the hand of the
artist-workman. Art has been called the " flowering of man's moral nature," it is a
natural growth out of, and beyond mere material necessities; to it we owe everything in
the whole range of human productions which appeal to the sense of beauty, and the
thoughts awakened in us by beauty. The artistic sense by which we appreciate these
things may be counted as a sixth sense; it may be possessed in a greater or less degree by
the individual, but it exists in every one, and may be developed by training and cultiva-
tion like the other senses.

As I said that to understand the real nature of Art is to possess ourselves of the
various pleasures it is capable of giving.

For I must premise that the end and aim of Art, and therefore the cultivation of the
Artistic sense, is to give pleasure in the common things of life by giving to them beauty
of form, pattern, color; and next, pleasure of a still higher order by translating and trans-
forming the things of Nature into the beauty of picture, statue, or building.

It is the sort of pleasure that is in all elevated things, and it appeals to the purest and
most intellectual side of our nature; there can be no degradation, no intemperance in the
cultivation, the indulgence of the Artistic sense. The pleasure it subserves lies at the
root, and is the inspiration of music and poetry, as well as of painting, and sculpture, and
architecture. It is Beauty that is sought for in all these; Beauty is the source of the
pleasure we find in them, and without Beauty, any manifestation of these great aits is nothing
worth. We ask of a musical composition, not only that it shall be in strict accordance
i

ART AT HOME. 13

with technical rules, but also that it shall enchant us with the beauty of its melody or the
sublimity of its form; we ask not only that a poem shall be written in faultless language
and rhythm, but it shall appeal with higher beauty to the mind and the heart: so it would
not be enough for a picture to be designed according to the strictest laws of composition
and perspective, or for a statue to obey every rule of anatomy, or for a building to have
every proportional and geometric perfection there must be a soul of beauty and sub-
limity in the picture, the statue, the building, as well as in the musical composition and
the poem; and then by them we shall be made to feel the highest pleasure of which our
nature is capable a pleasure which nourishes the intellect in delighting the senses, and
through them, the heart.

At the head of these greater Arts, the Fine Arts properly so called, Poetry, Music,
Painting, Sculpture, Architecture at the head of each of these stand great names with
which we are all familiar; of their minds and work we know something, and that some-
thing is usually the basis of our knowledge of these Arts themselves. Our admiration of
the music of Handel, and Bach, and Beethoven, grows deeper as our theoretical under-
standing and practical experience of the Art of Music increases; the more we learn
about the nature and powers of language, and the larger our experience of life, the more
we appreciate and admire Shakespeare, and Dante, and Goethe; and with inquiry into a
study of the nature and history of the Arts, joined with as much practical knowledge of
them as may be possible, we shall enter the more fully into the minds and works of the
Great Masters of Sculpture and Painting Phidias and Michael Angelo, Leonardo and
Raphael and Titian, so that they may be something more to us than merely great
names, and their high reputation may be justified to us. So, too, is there much to be
learned and enjoyed in the marvels of the architecture of all ages that the Greek, the
Romanesque, the Gothic, shall be more than barren names; and following in the train of
these great men and periods of Fine Art come a crowd of lesser arts, such as the art of
the potter, the carver in wood, in stone, in ivory, of the metal worker, the weaver, the
embroiderer, and many others arts which lend beauty of form, and pattern, and color,
to the common things of life, each of which has laws and a character of its own to be
studied, in accordance with which Beauty is fitly joined with Use; the one furthering
rather than interfering with the functions of the other.

All this opens a very large prospect. But everything must have a beginning; and it is
this little beginning that I want to make in the minds of those for whom it has not already
been made a little gate into that field, that vast kingdom of Art, which contains within
it things small and great, and of infinite diversity, from the pattern of the door-knob to
the sculptures of the Parthenon.

" Happy is he," says Goethe, "who, at an early age, knows what Art is;" but it is never
too late to learn.

"All Art," says Mr. Ruskin, "worthy the name, is energy, neither of the human body
alone, nor of the human soul alone, but of both united, one guiding the other: good
craftsmanship and work of the fingers, joined with good emotion and work of the heart."

14 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

In Mr. Ruskin's " Two Paths " I find a principle laid down that I am convinced is
perfectly sound, and easy of application in these matters.

" The true forms of conventional ornament consist in the bestowal of as much beauty
on the object as shall be consistent with the Material, its Place, and its Office."

Every object, then, that we admit into our houses should be able to sustain with credit
the following inquiries :

Does it appear to be made of the Material of which it really is, or ought to be made ?

Is it appropriate to the Place for which it is intended ?

Does it declare its use or Office, and seem fit for it ?

Let us examine a little into the application of each separate requirement. The first,
you see, condemns all imitations of a substance, especially when the object is not likely to
have been made of that substance. Such are doors painted in bronze, sham jewelry,
paper flowers, glass colored to look like china, plaster to look like iron and bronze, and
many more. It seems a strange thing, when we reflect, that it should be supposed that
we all take pleasure in a thing that pretends to be something else than it appears, and
that the deception should be pointed out to us as a recommendation. The advertisement
that assures us that Paris diamonds and Abyssinian jewelry cannot be distinguished from
the real thing, the shopkeeper who tells us that some stuff of mixed material has quite the
appearance of silk, and that a silk-finished velveteen could easily be mistaken for velvet;
all this is intended to appeal, and really does appeal, to the tastes and wants of a large
class. But how much better and more honest is it to know what the especial article we
want ought to be made of, and to see that we get it silk honestly silk, and woolen
honestly woolen, and cotton honestly cotton, and linen really and truly linen; and
when the manufacturers find what is expected of them they will supply it accordingly.
It must have been inappropriate and perishable material that first put it into the
careful housewife's mind to provide an extra case or cover for various household
objects oil-cloth or drugget to cover the stair-carpeting, holland covers for the furniture,
and antimacassars over them again, oil-cloth to cover tables, and table-covers to cover the
oil-cloth, and mats to save the tablecloth, and much more of the same kind. In the first place,
the materials used should be appropriate and serviceable, and in the second, people should
not be ashamed of the signs of honest wear in them, still, for my part, if I must cover
things up at all, I would cover them when they were really shabby than while they were
fresh. And when this system of covers extend itself to paper covers for flower-pots, china-
cases and covers for sardine boxes, silvered perforated cardboard cases for match-boxes,
and such like, it seems to express a dislike to the honest plainness and simplicity, really
right and appropriate, of the things themselves, and a false refinement and love of disguise.
It is the same feeling that leads people to call shops rep'ositories and emporiums, and florists
to call themselves " horticultural furnishers." Simplicity and plain dealing in the material
of household goods and appliances will lead us a long way in the direction of taste.

Now as to the second requirement. The various rooms in our houses are intended for
various uses and occasions, and natural instinct for convenience leads us to furnish them

ART AT HOME.

16 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

in accordance with these uses and occasions the dining-room solid and severe, with large
and steady furniture adapted to serious needs; the kitchen, full of useful homely appli-
ances, kept bright and clean; and the drawing-room, with its books and pictures and elegan-
cies, suited for leisure and social purposes, and therefore rightly the. most decorated room
in the house. So bearing the different functions of each room in mind, and furnishing
them in accordance with each, we get a general sense of order and appropriateness. All
this is obvious enough, and is generally sufficiently well carried out. Only very often in
minor appliances, the want of the feeling for appropriateness makes itself felt. A coal-
scuttle is an excellent and useful thing in its way, and in its appropriate place, but
why have it in miniature on our tables, and scoop salt or sugar out of it ? Wheel barrows,
and buckets, rink-skates and perambulators, used for similar purposes are really less con-
venient than a small dish or bowl really designed for use, without any ulterior notion
of ingenuity or conceit. A tea-kettle in the form of a drum, with the sticks for
handles; a toast-rack formed of wreaths of ivy (what has ivy to do with toast?), or rifles
piled up in a very unmilitary manner ; a biscuit-box in the shape of a coal-box ; gilt
chain cabhs for holding back curtains; are examples of the same thing that occur to me,
but a large and very astonishing list could very soon be collected. It is true as Mr. Morris
says, that the best designed and constructed things in a house are generally found in the
kitchen ; but that is because they fulfill their use, and are appropriate to their place,
both of which qualities they lose when transported to the drawing-room.

Now the third requirement, which in its application is closely connected with the
second. All things of common use have their appropriate form, which, when once dis-
covered, should be used and repeated without disguise. Thus a salt-cellar is most really
convenient when made of glass, of a simple oblong shape, so as not to be easily upset,
that the spoon may comfortably rest in it, and the salt be easily renewed; and there are
many modifications of 'form, and even color, that might be introduced without hinder-
ing use in any way, or making the thing seem other than it is ; and so may this principle
be carried out indefinitely; and I cannot see, except for the love of novelty and pretentious
conceit, why anything more should be wanted. It cannot be a very lasting pleasure to
shake pepper out of an owl's head, or help yourself to butter out of a bee-hive ; but it is a
lasting pleasure to have a thoroughly useful and soundly constructed thing made out of a
right and good material, appearing in its appropriate place, and declaring and fulfilling its
proper use and office.

The chief materials of which our household goods are made wood, stone, metals,
glass, china differ widely in quality of texture and substance.

It is a very common objection to what are called artistic colors to say that they are
gloomy, dismal, and unbecoming. If this is true of any particular shade, the fact would
merely go to prove that it is not a color properly so-called, but some muddy confusion of
tints, mistaken for an artistic color for want of a right apprehension and it owes its
existence to a foregone conclusion that everything heavy and dull must be artistic.

Delicacy of effect is gained by suiting exactly the color to the material. To muslin and

ART AT HOME. 17

such like filmy substances full bright tints are most unsuitable ; pale tender hues, and light
tracery of pattern belong to them ; still delicacy in these does not involve insipidity, which
poverty of tone and design would cause. For richer stuffs, in silk and satin and velvet,
fuller hues are quite suitable. The shimmer, the shifting of lights and shadows, the bloom
of the texture modifies the effect of a full color which in a dull common stuff would be flat
and heavy.

It is a immemorial custom that dining-room curtains should be red, with leather chairs,
red tablecloth, and Turkey carpet in which red prevails. There is not much variety in
this time-honored fashion; nor is there sometimes in the manifestations of the new. I saw
a drawing-room the other day with a peacock feather patterned wall-paper, dado and wood
work of peacock blue, and curtains and chair-coverings of peacock patterned chintz, ex-
actly matching the wall-paper. The result was flat and monotonous, in my opinion. Both
these are instances of want of variety. I would never recommend chairs to be covered
with stuff like the curtains, or the walls to be like either. The walls of the dining-room
may be a brownish yellow, the curtains of a mixed red and yellow the yellow a little
pinkish; the chairs plain red, and the carpet brown and yellow and red, and a little green.
A great deal of pleasure can be felt in the variety of these tints, which nevertheless pro-
duce a unity of effect when regarded as a whole. It is a good rule, if the walls have
a pattern on them, that the curtains should be plain, and vice versa; so a dress should not
be entirely figured or embroidered, but only in portions, that the design may show all the
more richly. Red is the color that first attracts the untrained sense. Green has been
said to be a color that is only appreciated by cultivated faculties. Yellow is a color of
which, I am inclined to think, the best effects are neglected; it ought to be more used
in town houses, so as to bring a little artificial sunlight into them. It cannot be used in
masses, but must be broken and mingled with other colors. Yellow and white are as
agreeable in their way as blue and white. Mixed shades of yellow and white and a little
myrtle green form a pleasing combination. Now as blue is called cold, so is yellow said
to be warm. It is the color of the intensest heat we can imagine white-heat; and as
blue cools and chills, yellow warms any color with which it is mixed. Red being neutral.
is incapable of imparting either cold or warm effect to a color to which it is added in
any proportion. In the prismatic spectrum, the original type of color, or the rainbow, are
found what are called the three primary colors yellow, red, blue. Between these, and
composed of them, are the three secondary colors, orange made of yellow and red; pur-
ple, of red and blue; green, of blue and yellow. Of the three primary colors yellow, red,
blue in various proportions, every hue in nature is composed black, in which all colors
are absorbed, being at one end of the scale, and white, in which all are reflected, at the
other end of it. Between the two, the variations may be considered infinite. Some sci-
entific calculation numbers thirty thousand; but I could easily believe them to be twice
as many.

Blue is the only color that can be obtained in a perfectly pure form. Ultramarine the
type of purity, the color of the Virgin Mary.

iS HOME DISSERTATION'S.

Never have a color concentrated in one spot, but take care to repeat it in others. If you
have blue and white chintz in one corner of your room, put some in another corner to
balance it. In these ways, therefore by using either a color-analogy, or a color-contrast
and observing delicacy, variety, and repetition, can harmonious arrangement of color be
brought together and applied. "It is the best possible sign of a color," says Mr. Ruskin,
"when nobody who sees it knows what to call it, or how to give an idea of it to anybody
else."

Even among simple hues the most valuable are those which cannot be defined; the
most precious purples will look brown beside pure purple; and the most precious greens
will be called blue if seen beside pure green, and green if seen beside pure blue. A color
may be very agreeable in its real nature, but lose all its pleasing qualities when wrongly
combined. Harmony not only brings agreeable tones together, but establishes an affinity
between them, both in music and in color.

The most striking effect of the modern revival of taste is the change of public opinion
it has effected with regard to color a change from coldness and rawness to tone and
warmth. And if we compare the magenta, the mauve, the emerald green of a dozen years
ago, with the tints that are now the mode, we shall see that the wide difference between
their effect on the color sense is owing to the adoption in the latter of warm yellow tones
instead of cold blue ones, such as I have described.

" There are not many tints," says Mr. Morris, "fit to color a wall with. Here is a
short list : a solid red not very deep, but rather describable as a full pink, and toned both
with yellow and blue, a very fine color if you can hit it; a light orangy pink, to be used
rather sparingly, a pale golden tint, /'. e., a yellowish brown, a very difficult color to hit;
and a color between these two last, call it pale copper color. All these three you must be
careful over, for if you get them muddy or dirty you are lost."

As the beauty of glass consists in its transparency and lightness, and its capability of
being twisted, or blown, or moulded into a multitude of delicate forms, it early occurred
to the manufacturing mind that, if made thick and solid and cut in facets, it would re-
semble crystal; and thus it has come to be a fixed idea that hard glitter is its most valu-
able quality, and so it is made inches thick, and pounds heavy, to enhance its brilliancy;
and, being one of the most fragile of substances, it must be engraved with people's crests
and monograms, as if it were intended to carry down the name of the family for genera-
tions to come ! Being of its nature transparent, it must be rendered opaque of set inten-
tion by coloring matters, and then painted and gilded ! Since, at the strongest, glass can
never be anything but fragile, at least let it keep the beauty belonging to fragility; since
it is naturally transparent, let the light be seen streaming through it, sometimes delicately
tinted, sometimes iridescent; and, instead of being cut, let it be blown and twisted into
the thousand delicate shapes to which it easily lends itself, and of which, in the Vene-
tian glass of a bygone day, and in its present revival, there are such delightful exam-
ples.

In the word pottery is included every species of earthenware, from the rudest cup of

ART AT HOME.

burnt or baked clay, such as was made a thousand years before the Christian era, to the

finest Oriental and Sevres of to-day.

The taste for blue and white china, so great a feature in modern decoration, has much

to excuse it within due limits. I have never been able to see the fitness of hanging

detached plates, however unique and valu-
able on walls, as if they were pictures; but
on a shelf or ledge where plates can be
arranged in a row, the cool, clean color
of the older Oriental, or even Delf, is very
refreshing and pleasant to the eye. With-
out pretending to connoisseurship in marks,
and periods, and processes, we may easily
learn to distinguish between poor imitations,
and original and good objects in pottery

between Chinese and Japanese, between early and late works in both, and among the
most marked English kinds, Wedgewood, Worcester, Chelsea, Derby, and so on, so to
use the most decorative.

20 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

Emerson says of Art: '' Because the soul is progressive, it never quite repeats itselL.
but in every act attempts the production of a new and fairer whole. This appears in
works both of the useful and the fine arts, if we employ the popular distinction of works
according to their aim either at use or beauty. Thus in our fine arts, not imitation, but
creation, is the aim.

It is a rule of largest application, true in a plant, true in a loaf of bread, that in the
construction of any fabric or organism, any real increase of fitness to its end, is an
increase of beauty.

Hence our taste in building rejects paint, and all shifts, and shows the original g.:ain
of the wood: refuses pilasters and columns that support nothing, and allows the real sup-
porters of the house honestly to show themselves.

We ascribe beauty to that which is simple ; which has no superfluous parts ; which
exactly answers its end ; which stands related to all things ; which is the mean of many
extremes. Beauty rides on a lion. Beauty rests on necessities. The line of beauty is the
result of perfect economy. The cell of the bee is built at that angle which gives the most
strength with the least wax ; the bone or the quill of the bird gives the most alar strength
with the least weight. " It is the purgation of superfluities," said Michael Angelo.

Veracity first of ail, and forever. Rien de beau que le vrai. In all designs, art lies in
making your object prominent, but there is a prior art in choosing objects that are promi-
nent. The fine arts have nothing casual, but spring from the instincts of the nations that
created them.

Still Beauty rides on her lion, as before. Still, "it was for beauty that the world was made. "

But the sovereign attribute remains to be noted. Things are pretty, graceful, rich,
elegant, handsome, but, until they speak to the imagination, not yet beautiful.

Let us understand, then, that a house shall bear witness in all its economy that human
culture is the end to which it is built and garnished.

Honor to the house where they are simple to the verge of hardship, so that there the
intellect is awake and reads the laws of the universe, the soul worships truth and love,
honor and courtesy flow into all deeds.

The ornament of a house is the friends who frequent it. There is no event greater
in life than the appearance of new persons about our hearth, except it be the progress of
the character which draws them. It has been finally added by Landor to his definition of
'the great man, " It is he who can call together the most select company when it pleases him."
Beyond its primary ends of the conjugal, parental, and amicable relations, the house-
hold should cherish the beautiful arts and the sentiments of veneration.

Whatever brings the dweller into a finer life, what educates his eye, or ear, or hand,
whatever purifies and enlarges him, may well find place there. And yet let him not
think that a property in beautiful object 1 ; is necessary to his apprehension of them, and
seek to turn his house into a museum. Rather let the noble practice of the Greeks find
place in our society, and let the creations of the plastic arts be collected with care in
galleries by the piety and taste of the people, and yielded as freely as the sunlight to all.

ART AT HOME.

Meantime, be it remembered, we are artists ourselves, and competitors, each one
with Phidias and Raphael in the production of what is graceful and grand. The
fountain of beauty is the heart, and every generous thought illustrates the walls of
your chambers."

THE HEARTH-STONE.

BLoW HIGH BLoW Low NoT

THE WINDS THA T EVER BLW CAN

QVENCH oVR HEARTH - FIRES RVDDy GLW.

Where thou find'st fires unraked and hearths unswept,
There pinch the maids as blue as bilberry. SHAKESPEARE.

VESTA was the goddess of the household hearth, or rather the fire burning on
the hearth. As, according to the old heathen custom, all men were regarded
as enemies unless by a special compact they had been made friends, so Vesta
presided especially over true and faithful dealing ; and as the household was the centre
of all kindly affections, she was represented as always pure and undefiled.

The influence of Vesta was perhaps more deeply felt, and wrought more good, than
any other Olympian deity. Her worship involved direct and practical duties. She
could not be fitly served by men who broke their plighted word, or dealt treacherously
with those whom they had received at their hearth ; and thus her worship was almost an
unmixed good, both for households and for the State.

The word vesta is often put for fire itself, for it is derived from a Greek word which
signifies a chimney, a house, or household goods. She is esteemed the president and
guardian of houses, and one of the household deities, not without reason, since she
invented the art of building houses: and therefore an image of Vesta, to which they sac-
rificed every day, was placed before the doors of the houses in Rome, and the places
where these statues were set up were cal/ed vestibula, from Vesta.

A perpetual fire was kept in her temple, among the sacred pledges of the empire; not
upon an altar, or in the chimneys, but in earthen vessels hanging in the air, which the
vestal virgins tended with so much care, that if by chance this fire was extinguished, all
public and private business was interrupted, and a vacation proclaimed till they had
expiated the unhappy prodigy with incredible pains; and if it appeared that the virgins
were the occasion of its going out, by carelessness, they were severely punished. In
recompense for this severe law, the vestals obtained extraordinary privileges and respect;
they had the most honored seats at games and festivals; the consuls and magistrates gave
way whenever they met them; their declarations in trials were admitted without the form
of an oath; and if they happened to encounter in their path a criminal going to the place
of execution, he immediately obtained his pardon.

Upon the calends of March, every year, though it was not extinguished, they used to
renew it, with no other fire than that which was produced by the rays of the sun.

A portion of the sacred fire of Vesta was carried away by the colonists, to be kept

VESTA.

24 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

alive forever in their new home; and as long as this fire continued burning, they felt they
had a common interest with the citizens of their old country.

"It was supposed that in the centre of the earth there was a hearth which answered to
the hearth placed in the centre of the whole universe."

Lucy Crane says: "The one indispensable stone in every room of the house the hearth-
stone is, in most old-fashioned houses, of marble, easily kept clean by washing; when it came
to be made of inferior stone, whitening was used at the edges, and black-lead under and about
the grate. In fire-places of this kind, instead of these, I would recommend reddening,
which has an excellent effect with brass fender, and fireirons, and the red ochre for the
purpose can be got everywhere and applied just as easily as whitening or black-lead. As
all the interest and home feelings of a house collect about the fireside, in our climate, in
which winter holds us half the year, a fire being, as Dr. Johnson said, "a living thing in
a dead room," it will be worth while to consider it in other respects carefully.

The earlier household fires were made on an open hearth of logs of wood piled on iron
supports called dogs, which at their ends fronting the room, were ornamented with figures
and devices of wrought metal. As coal became more commonly used, being found
capable of containing greater heat in a smaller compass, a sort of basket grate was made
to contain it. In most cases the open fireplace is a great black hole in our rooms, only
tolerable when there is a fire burning in it, and anything we can do to moderate the black-
ness is a benefit, such as to redden the hearth in the way I have mentioned, or still better,
to pave the hearth with red tiles not tiles with patterns on them, as the ashes obscure
and spoil the effect of the design. In summer great and wonderful efforts are in these
days made to do away with that blackness. I cannot think painted and gilded papers, or
lace bibs and aprons, or a heap of shavings garlanded with artificial flowers, or even cur-
tains or a Japanese umbrella, really comfortable and appropriate. The fireplace itself is
the root of the difficulty, which will last until there is a general reform. A wide fireplace
lined with patterned and colored tiles, the hearth of plain ones, red or brown or green,
and the grate itself a separate and detached object, capable of being removed, and its
place in the summer filled with plants; like the hearth in The Deserted Village,

"With aspen boughs, and flowers, and fennel, gay."
This would be an improvement.

The uselessness is obvious, in every way, of the long-admired bright steel fireirons; but
now it is common to find these things made of more satisfactory material and shape, and
I think there is little doubt that brass is the most beautiful and convenient metal for them,
and for the fender and the coal box as well; it is easily kept bright, and has a cheerful
effect, always supposing these things to be not too large and heavy, and to have as much
elegant shape and delicate detail as are consistent with their use and material.

And so we come to a short consideration of metals. Brass candlesticks, inkstands,
chandeliers, and sconces are new to be had of simple and elegant shapes, many being
reproductions of some of the old good work; and if, in the same room with these, the door-
plates, and handles, and bell-pulls, are of wrought brass-work too, the general effect is so

THE HEARTH-STONEr 25

much the better, as the eye is pleased with the repetition of the brightness in various
forms.

How charmingly Leigh Hunt has written: " My fire has been left to itself: it has full
room to breathe and to blaze, and I can poke it as I please. What recollections does that
idea excite ? Poke it as I please ! Think, benevolent reader, think of the pride and
pleasure of having in your hand that awful, but at the same time artless, weapon, a poker,
of putting it into the proper bar, gently levering up the coals, and seeing the instant and
bustling flame above ! To what can I compare that moment ? That sudden, empyreal
enthusiam ? That fiery expression, vivification ? That ardent acknowledgment, as it were,
of the kindliness of the operator ? "

The utility, as well as beauty, of the fire during breakfast, need not be pointed out to
the most unphlogistic observer. A person would rather be shivering at any time of the
day than at that of his first rising ; the transition would be too unnatural, he is not pre-
pared for it. If you eat plain bread and butter with your tea, it is fit that your modera-
tion should be rewarded with a good blaze; and if you indulge in hot rolls or toast, you
will hardly keep them to their warmth without it, particularly if you read; and then, -if you
take in a newspaper, what a delightful change from the wet, raw, dabbing fold of paper
when you first touch it, to the dry, crackling, crisp superficies which, with a skillful spat
of the finger-nails at its upper end, stands at once in your hand, and looks as if it said,
"Come read me." Nor is it the look of the newspaper only which the fire must render
complete: it is the interest of the ladies who happen to form part of your family, of your
wife in particular, if you have one, to avoid the niggling and pinching aspect of cold; it
takes away the harmony of her features, and the graces of her behavior; while, on the
other hand, there is scarcely a more interesting sight in the world than that of a neat,
delicate, good-humored woman presiding at your breakfast-table, with hands tapering out
of her long sleeves, eyes with a touch of Sir Peter Lely in them, face a little oval and retain-
ing a certain tinge of the pillow without its cloudiness. This is, indeed, the finishing grace
of a fireside.

The evening is beginning to gather in. The window, which presents a large face of
watery gray, intersected by strong lines, is imperceptibly becoming darker; and as that
becomes darker, the fire assumes a more glowing presence. The contemplatist keeps his
easy posture, absorbed in his fancies; and everything around him is still and serene. The
stillness would even ferment in his ear, and whisper, as it were, of what the air contained;
but a minute coil, just sufficient to hinder that busier silence, clicks in the burning coal,
while every now and then the light ashes shed themselves below, or a stronger, but still a
gentle, flame flutters up with a gleam over the chimney. At length, the darker objects in
the room mingle; the gleam of the fire streaks with a restless light the edges of the furni-
ture, and reflects itself in the blackening window; while his feet take a gentle move on the
fender, and then settle again, and his face comes out of the general darkness, earnest even
in indolence, and pale in the very ruddiness of what it looks upon. This is the only time,
perhaps, at which sheer idleness is salutary and refreshing.

26 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

How observed with the smallest effort is every trick and aspect of the fire! A coal fall-
ing in, a fluttering flame, a miniature mockery of a flash of lightning, nothing escapes the
eye and the imagination. Sometimes a little flame appears at the corner of the grate like a
quivering spangle; sometimes it swells out at top into a restless brief lambency; anon it is
seen only by the light beneath the grate, or it curls aronnd one of the bars like a tongue,
or darts out with a spiral thinness and a sulphurous and continued puffing as from a reed.
The glowing coals meantime exhibit the shifting forms of hills and vales and gulfs, of
fiery Alps, whose heat is uninhabitable even by spirit, or of black precipices, from which
swart fairies seem about to spring away on sable wings; the heat and fire are forgotten,
and walled towns appear, and figures of unknown animals, and far distant countries
scarcely to be reached by human journey; then coaches and camels, and barking dogs as
large as either, and forms that combine every shape and suggest every fancy, till at last
the ragged coals tumbling together, reduce the vision to chaos, and the huge profile of a
gaunt and grinning face seems to make a jest of all that has passed.

The entrance of a single candle dissipates at once the twilight and the sunshine, and
the ambitious dreamer is summoned to his tea!

Where the fire is duly appreciated, whether the party be large or small, young or old,
talkative or contemplative. If there is music, a good fire will be particularly grateful to
the performers, who are often seated at the farther end of the room.

This is the finished evening; this the quickener at once and calmer of tired thought;
this the spot where our better spirits await to exalt and enliven us, when the daily and
vulgar ones have discharged their duty.

Bright fires and joyous faces; and it is no easy thing for philosophy to say good-night.
But health must be enjoyed or nothing will be enjoyed, and the charm should be broken
at a reasonable hour.

Far be it, however, from a rational firesider not to make exceptions to the rule, when
friends have been long asunder, when some domestic celebration has called them to-
gether, or even when hours peculiarly congenial render it difficult to part. A single
friend, perhaps, loiters behind the rest; you are alone in the house; you have just got
upon a subject delightful to you both; the fire is of a candent brightness; the wind howls
out of doors; the rain beats; the cold is piercing! Sit down. This is a time when the
most melancholy temperament may defy the clouds and storms, and even extract from
them a pleasure that will take no substance by daylight. Even when left alone, there is
sometimes a charm in watching out the decaying fire. The world around is silent; and
for a moment the very cares of day seem to have gone with it to sleep, then, for imag-
ination's sake, not for superstition's, are recalled the stories of the Secret World and the
midnight pranks of Fairyism. Presently the whole band of fairies, ancient and modern,
the demons, sylphs, gnomes, sprites, elves, peris, genii, and above all, the fairies of
the fireside, the salamanders, lob-lie-by-the-fires, the lemures, larvae, come flitting between
the fancy's eyes, and the dying coals, and Oberon gives his gentle order:

" Through this house with glimmering light Hop as light as bird from briar;

By the dead and drowsy fire, And this ditty, after me,

Every elf and fairy sprite Sing and dance it trippingly."

FLOWERS.

Why does not everybody have a geranium in his window,
or some other flower? It is very cheap; its cheapness is
next to nothing, if you raise it from seed or from a slip;
and it is a beauty and a companion. It sweetens the air,
rejoices the eye, links you with nature and innocence, and
is something to love. LEIGH HUNT.

Flowers are the alphabet of all angels whereby
They write on hills and fields mysterious truths.

A LOVE of flowers has always ranked among
the refined pleasures of a polished people.
Apart from cheerful and hygenic consider-
ations, there is a question of ornamentation in the
presence of plants and flowers about your
^ rooms. Not many of us can afford con-
servatories, but all of us, with the sun's
' aid, can compass the window garden; and
what picture on our walls is apt to
be half so beautiful as a window
where the sun is sifting through the
snow and gold of tropical-leaved
> 4 callas; through the geranium blos-
soms like scarlet fire, through the blue
lobelia and yellow oxalis, and rose,
and carnation, and the net work of all
their leaves.

The window gardens enliven the
dreary wastes of bricks and stone,
showing a marvellous wealth of beau-
tiful plants on its window-sill, and
can be made brilliant with flower-
boxes in every window. The favorite
plants for early spring are pansies
and daisies which send their white
and pink blooms high above all the
rest. Later, scarlet and pink gera-
niums, yellow calceolarias, and blue
lobelias, while hanging from the boxes
in graceful festoons aretrailing-vines

28 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

of English and German ivy and nasturtiums with crimson and golden blossoms. Other
boxes can be arranged with a mass of solid green and scarlet green ivy waving below
and scarlet geraniums all of one shade glowing above.

The most satisfactory window gardens for the entire summer are those where the
plants grow from seeds or slips. These make their natural progress through the season
and are assailed by no premature blight. In the spring the little seedlings may be seen
coming up out of the soft earth. By June some of them are beginning to flower, and in
July and August the little garden is in a glory of color with yellow coreopsis, crimson
petunias and verbenas of every tint. It is surprising how many wanderers from the
winged life of the fields these gardens will attract buzzing bees, saucy yellow-jackets,
and sometimes in June mornings bright butterflies will flutter over the flowers.

It frequently happens that the outlook from some particular room in the house is not
altogether pleasant, or that the window is so placed in relation to the street as that passers-
by can observe what is going on in the interior of the room. In such cases as these,
window gardens will be found exceedingly useful as well as highly ornamental the
plants forming a natural blind of the most elegant description.

For interior decoration, rooms may be made beautiful with potted rare exotics, or
simple flowering plants, placed within fanciful jars. Tulips massed in various colors, pre-
sent a brilliant effect. Primroses make lovely groupings, while hyacinths fill a room with
beauty and fragrance. Ferns, small palms and palmettoes are imposing in Morocco or
majolica pottery, and even a simple ivy placed on a bracket by a window, without the aid
of the sun, will wreath itself in beauty around a room.

Flowers and plants beautify more .than costly furniture. Plants should be showered
once a week, watered every day, occasionally with a dozen drops of ammonia in a pint of
water. Cut flowers should have the water changed every day at least, removing every
decayed leaf as soon as they show any symptoms of decay; and the ends of the stems cut
off keeps them fresh longer. A more efficacious way, however, is to put nitrate of soda
into the water every time it is changed, which will preserve cut flowers in all beauty for
above a fortnight. Nitrate of potash, that is, saltpetre in powder, has nearly the same
effect but it is not quite as efficacious. Too many flowers should not be crowded together,
loose arrangement is more pleasing, and the flowers remain fresh longer. Vines, placed
in large, wide-mouthed bottles filled with water and hung on the back of pictures, will
soon wreath themselves around the frames.

"A lady gardener gathered a handful of forget-me-nots, and to preserve them as long
a period as possible, they were put in a large soup-plate, filled with rain-water. The
flowers were placed near the window, to enjoy the advantages resulting from an abundance
of light and air, and the water was replenished when needful. In three weeks, white,
thread-like roots were emitted from the portion of the flower-stalk in the water; and they
ultimately formed a thick net-work over the plate. The flowers remained quite fresh,
and as soon as the roots began to run in the water the buds began to expand, and, up to
the middle of November, the bouquet was a dense mass of flowers, and a more beautiful
or chaste ornament cannot be imagined."

WIFE.

" She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth rot
the bread of idleness.

" Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her husband also,
and he praiseth her." PROVERBS, xxxi., 27, 28.

\ T 7 HAT do you think the beautiful word 'wife' comes from?" asks Ruskin. "Il

\f V/ is the great word in which the English and Latin languages conquered the
French and Greek. I hope the French will some day get a word for it instead
of that dreadful word femme. But what do you think it comes from ? The great value of
the Saxon words is they mean something. Wife means weaver. You must be either
housewives or housemoths; remember that. In the deep sense, you may either weave
men's fortunes and embroider them, or feed upon and bring them to decay.

Wherever a true wife comes, home is always around her. The stars may be over her
head the glow-worm in the night-cold grass may be the fire at her foot; but home is
where she is; and for a noble woman it stretches far around her, better than houses
ceiled with cedar or painted with vermillion, shedding its quiet light far for those who
else are homeless. This I believe to be the woman's true place and power."

Every woman has a mission on earth. There is "something to do" for every one a
household to put in order, a child to attend to, some degraded or homeless humanity to
befriend. That soul is poor indeed that leaves the world without having exerted an influ-
ence that will be felt for good after she has passed away.

" What a blessing to a household is a merry, cheerful wife one whose spirits are not
affected by wet days or little disappointments one whose milk of human kindness does
not grow sour in the sunshine of prosperity ! Such a woman, in the darkest hours,
brightens the house like a piece of sunshiny weather. The magnetism of her smiles and
the electrical brightness of her looks and movements infect everyone. The children go
to school with the sense of something great to be achieved; the husband goes into the
world in a conqueror's spirit. No matter how people annoy and worry him through the
day, far off her presence shines, and he whispers to himself: ' At home I shall find rest ! '
So day by day she literally renews his strength and energy. And, if you know a man
with a beaming face, a kind heart, and a prosperous business, in nine cases out of ten you
will find he has a wife of this kind."

Many a mother by the quiet usefulness of her life fills her children with a desire to be
like her, that makes them in their turn unselfish. It is not those who talk about goodness,
but those who are good that are the light of the world. It may be ours only to sow little
seeds of love and kindness in some neglected corner of our surroundings, or to uproot
from our own hearts noxious weeds which may be thriving there; or it may be our mission
only to suffer the will of God. But, if we be faithful in that which is least, striving in
each little moment to know and do God's will concerning it and us, ours may be a
record of more perfect days, and we shall obtain an enduring crown, a crown far more

HOME DISSERTATIONS.

bright and beautiful than ever rested on the head of an earthly monarch. "We cannot
too honestly study to know ourselves. But we should also aim to look out of ourselves up
to greater and better models, and aim at being like them. When self-examination is
carried too far, it does harm in various ways perhaps by excessive self-condemnation for
not coming up to a supposed standard, perhaps by hypocritical pretensions to a certain
unnatural sanctimoniousness. A sound religion is eminently conducive to that peace and
tranquillity of the mind which favor sanity and sobriety it makes prosperity safe by teach-
ing its dependence on God and on the doing of that which is right and true; and it makes
adversity bearable by pointing out that it is temporary, and if patiently and piously borne,
' will work out good.' "

Oliver Wendell Holmes says: " You talk of the fire of genius. Many a blessed woman,
who dies unsung and unremembered, has given out more of the real vital heat that keeps
the life in human souls, without a spark flitting through her humble chimney to tell the
world about it, than would set a dozen theories smoking, or a hundred odes simmering in
the brains of so many men of genius.

Mr. Cross says of
to women, and to raise
thought, could best be
amateurs. But it was

George Eliot: " She was keenly alive to redress injustices
their general status in the community. This, she
effected by women improving their work ceasing to be
one of the most distinctly marked traits of her character
that she particularly disliked everything generally asso-
ciated with the idea of a ' masculine woman.' She was,
and as a woman wished to be, above all things, feminine
'so delicate with her needle, and an admirable musi-
cian.' She was proud, too, of being an excellent house-
keeper an excellence attained from knowing how things
ought to be done, from her earliest training, and from an
inborn habit of extreme orderliness. Nothing
jf!?:,., offended her more than the idea that because
r. woman had exceptional intellectual powers,
therefore it was right that she should ab-
solve herself, or be absolved, from her
ordinary household duties." " Happy
the house in which character mar-
ries, and not confusion and a miscel-
lany of unavowable motives. Then
shall marriage be a covenant to secure
to either party the sweetness and
honor of being a calm, continuing, in-
evitable benefactor to the other."

She layeth her hands to the spindle, and her hands hold the distaff.

PROVERBS xxxi., 19.

MANNERS.

Life is not so short but that there is always time enough
for courtesy.

Good manners are made up of petty sacrifices.

I THINK Hans Andersen's story of the cobweb cloth woven so fine it was invisible,
woven for the king's garment, must mean manners, which do really clothe a princely
nature. Such a one can well go in a blanket, if he would. In the gymnasium or on
the sea-beach his superiority does not leave him. But he who has not this fine garment
of behavior is studious of dress, and then not less of house, and furniture, and pictures,
and gardens, in all which he hopes to lie perdu, and not be exposed.

Much ill-natured criticism has been directed on American manners. I do not think
it is to be resented. Rather, if we are wise, we shall listen and mend. But in every
sense the subject of manners has a constant interest to thoughtful persons. Who does
not delight in fine manners ? Their charm cannot be predicted or over-stated. 'Tis
perpetual promise of more than can be fulfilled. It is music and sculpture and pictures
to many who do not pretend to appreciation of those arts. It is even true that grace is
more beautiful than beauty. Yet how impossible to overcome the obstacle of an unlucky
temperament, and acquire good manners, unless by living with the well-bred from the
start; and this makes the value of wise forethought to give ourselves and our children as
much as possible the habit of cultivated society. 'Tis an inestimable hint that I owe to a
few persons of fine manners, that they make behavior the very first sign of force, be-
havior, and not performance, or talent, or, much less, wealth.

" Manners are stronger than laws." 'Tis a rule of manners not to exaggerate. A lady
loses as soon as she admires too easily and too much. In man or woman, the face and
the person lose power when they are on the strain to express admiration. A man makes
his inferiors his superiors by heat. Why need you, who are not a gossip, talk as a gossip,
and tell eagerly what the neighbors or the journals say?

State your opinion without apology. The attitude is the main point, assuring your
companion that, come good news or come bad, you remain in good heart and good mind,
which is the best news you can possibly communicate. Self-control is the rule. You have
in you there a noisy, sensual savage which you are to keep down, and turn all his strength
to beauty. For example, what a seneschal and detective is laughter ! It seems to require
several generations of education to train a squeaking or a shouting habit out of a man.
Sometimes, when in almost all expressions the Choctavv and the slave have been worked
out of him, a coarse nature still betrays itself in his contemptible squeals of joy. It is
necessary for the purification of drawing-rooms, that these entertaining explosions should
be under strict control. Lord Chesterfield had early made this discovery, for he says: "I
am sure that since I had the use of my reason, no human being has ever heard me laugh."
I know that there go two to this game, and in the presence of certain formidable wits,
savage nature must sometimes rush out in some disorder.

If a man have manners and talent he may dress roughly and carelessly. It is only when

3 1

32 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

mind and character slumber that the dress can be seen. If the intellect were always awake,
and every noble sentiment, the man might go in huckaback or mats, and his dress would
be admired and imitated. Remember George Herbert's maxim: " This coat with my dis-
cretion will be brave." If, however, a man has not firm nerves, and has keen sensibilities,
it is perhaps a wise economy to go to a good shop and dress himself irreproachably. He
can then dismiss all care from his mind, and may easily find that performance an addition
of confidence, a fortification that turns the scale in social encounters, and allows him to go
gaily into conversations where else he had been dry and embarrassed. I am not ignorant,
I have heard with admiring submission the experience of the lady who declared "that
the sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inward tranquility which relig-
ion is powerless to bestow."

I "Courtesy and politeness are matters worthy the attention of even the honorable and
fortunate, no person whether private or public, ever reached that lofty position, from
whence he could afford to disdain all thoughts of etiquette and manners."

Our gentlemen of the old school, that is, of the school of Washington, Adams, and
Hamilton, were bred after English types, and that style of breeding furnishes fine
examples in the last generation; but, though some of us have seen such, I doubt they are
all gone. But nature is not poorer to-day. With all our haste and slipshod ways, and
flippant self-assertion, I have seen examples of new grace and power in address that honor
the country. It was my fortune not long ago, with my eyes directed on this subject, to
fall in with an American to be proud of. I said never was such force, good meaning,
good sense, good action, combined with such domestic lovely behavior, such modesty and
persistent preference for others. The whole of heraldry and chivalry is in courtesy.

Would we codify the laws that should reign in households, and whose daily transgres-
sion annoys and mortifies us, and degrades our household life, we must learn to adorn
every day with sacrifices. Good manners are made up of petty sacrifices. Temperance,
courage, love, are made up of the same jewels. Listen to every prompting of honor.
"As soon as a sacrifice becomes a duty and necessity to the man, I see no limit to the
horizon which opens before me," says Ernest Renan. Of course those people, and no
others, interest us who believe in their thought, who are absorbed, if you please to say so,
in their own dream. They only can give the key and leading to better society: those
nvho delight in each other only because both delight in the eternal laws; who forgive noth-
ing to each other; who, by their joy and homage to these, are made incapable of conceit,
which destroys almost all the fine wits. Any other affection between men than this
geometric one of relation to the same thing, is a mere mush of materialism.

These are the bases of civil and polite society; namely, manners, conversation, lucrative
labor, and public action, whether political, or in the leading of social institutions. We have
much to regret, much to mend, in our society; but I believe that in all liberal and hopeful
men there is a firm faith in the beneficent results which we really enjoy; that intelligence,
manly -enterprise, good education, virtuous life, and elegant manners have been and are
found here, and we hope, in the next generation will still more abound.

EXTRACTS FROM EMERSON.

CONVERSATION.

Manners first, then conversation.

THE delight in good company, in pure, 'brilliant, social atmosphere; the incompar-
able satisfaction of a society in which everything can be safely said, in which every
member returns a true echo, in which a wise freedom, an ideal republic of sense,
simplicity, knowledge, and thorough good-meaning abide. doubles the value of life. It is
this that justifies to each the jealousy with which the doors are kept. Speech is power:
speech is to persuade, to convert, to compel. It is to bring another out of his bad sense
into your good sense. You are to be the missionary and carrier of all that is good and
noble. Virtues speaks to virtues, vices to vices each to their kind in the people with
whom we deal. If you are suspiciously and deeply on your guard, so is he or she. If you
rise to frankness and generosity, they will respect it now or later.

In this art of conversation, woman, if not the queen and victor, is the lawgiver. If
every one recalled his experiences, he might find the best in the speech of superior women,
which was better than song, and carried ingenuity, character, wise counsel, and afflic-
tion, as easily as the wit with which it was adorned.

They are not only wise themselves, they make us wise. No one can be a master in
conversation who has not learned much from woman; their presence and inspiration are
essential to its success. Shenstone gave no bad account of his influence in his description
of the French woman: " There is a quality in which no woman in the world can compete
with her, it is the power of intellectual irritation. She will draw wit out of a fool. She
strikes with such address the cords of self-love, that she gives unexpected vigor and
agility of fancy, and electrifies a body that appeared non-electric." Coleridge esteems
cultivated women as the depositaries and guardians of " English undefiled; " and Luther
commends that accomplishment of " pure German speech " of his wife.

Madame de Stael, by the unanimous consent of all who knew her, was the most extra-
ordinary converser that was known in her time, and it was a time full of eminent men and
women; she knew all distinguished persons in letters or society, in England, Germany,
and Italy, as well as in France, though she said with characteristic nationality, " Conversa-
tion, like talent, exists only in France." Madame de Stael valued nothing but conversa-
tion. And she said one day, seriously, to M. Mole, " if it were not for respect to human
opinions, I would not open my window to see the Bay of Naples for the first time, whilst
I would go five hundred leagues to talk with a man of genius whom I had not seen."
Ste Beuve tells us of the privileged circle at Coppet, that, after making an excursion one
day, the party returned in two coaches from Chambery to Aix, on the way to Coppet.
The first coach had many rueful accidents to relate, a terrific thunder-storm, shocking
roads, and danger and gloom to the whole company. The party in the second coach, on
arriving, heard this story with surprise; of thunder-storms, of steeps, of mud, of danger,
they knew nothing; no, they had forgotten earth, and breathed a purer air; such a conver-
sation between Madame de Stael and Madame Recramier and Benjamin Constant and
Schlegel ! they were in a state of delight. The intoxication of the conversation had made
them insensible to all notice of weather or rough roads.

34 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

Madame de Tasse said: "If I were queen, I should command Madame de Stael to
talk to me every day." Conversation fills all gaps, supplies all deficiencies.

Politics, war, party, luxury, avarice, fashion, are all asses with loaded panniers to
serve the kitchen of Intellect, the king. There is nothing that does not pass into lever
or weapon. A right speech is not to be distinguished from action. Courage to ask
questions, courage to expose ignorance. The great aim is not to shine, not to conquer
your companion, then you learn nothing but conceit, but to find a companion who
knows what you do not; to tilt with him and be overthrown, horse and foot, with utter
destruction of all your logic and learning. There is a defeat that is useful. Then you
can see the real and the counterfeit, and will never accept the counterfeit again. You
will adopt the art that has defeated you. You will ride to battle horsed on the very logic
which you found irresistible. You will accept the fertile truth, instead of the solemn
customary lie. Let nature bear the expense. The attitude, the tone, is all. Let your
eyes not look away. Let us not look east and west for materials of conversation, but rest
in presence and unity. A just feeling will fast enough supply fuel for discourse, if speak-
ing be more grateful than silence. When people come to see us, we foolishly prattle, lest
we be inhospitable. But things said for conversation are chalk eggs. Don't say
things. What you are stands over you the while, and thunders so that I cannot hear what
you say to the contrary. A lady of my acquaintance said: " I don't care so much for
what they say as I do for what makes them say it."

The main point is to throw yourself on the truth, and say with Newton, " There's no
contending against facts." When Molyneux fancied that the observations of the nutation
of the earths axis destroyed Newton's theory of gravitation, he tried to break it softly to Sir
Isaac, who only answered, "It maybe so; there's no arguing against facts and experi-
ments." But there are people who cannot be cultivated, people on whom speech makes
no impression, swainish, morose people, who must be kept down and quieted as you
would those who are a little tipsey; others, who are not only swainish, but are prompt to
take oath that swainishness is the only culture; and though their odd wit may have some
salt for you, your friends would not relish it. Blot these out. And beware of jokes, too
much temperance cannot be used; inestimable for sauce, but corruption for food; we
go away hollow and ashamed. As soon as the company gives in to this enjoyment,
we shall have no Olympus. True wit never made us laugh. Stay at home in
your own mind. Don't recite other people's opinions. See how it lies there in
you; and if there is no counsel, offer none.

AVhat we want is, not your activity or interference with your mind, but your content to
be a vehicle of the simple truth. The way to have large occasional views, as in a political
or social crisis, is to have large habitual views. When men consult you, it is not that
they wish you to stand tiptoe, and pump your brains, but to apply your habitual view, your
wisdom, to the present question, for bearing all pedantries, and the very name of argument;
for in good conversation parties don't speak to the words, but to the meanings of
each other.

TO-DAY.

Trust no future ; howe'er pleasant !

Let the dead Past bury its dead !
Act, act in the livmg Present !

Heart within, and God o'erhead !

LONGFELLOW.

The days are made on a loom whereof the warp
and woof are past and future time. They are
majestically dressed, as if every god brought a
thread to the skyey web.

<t / * OETHE says somewhere that one should contrive every day to hear some good

\Tf music, to look at a beautiful picture, and if possible, to speak a few sensible words."

" He only is rich who owns the day." There is no king, rich man, fairy, or

demon who possesses such power as that. The days are ever divine as to the first Aryans.

They are of the least pretention, and of the greatest capacity of anything that exists.

They come and go like muffled and veiled figures, sent from a distant friendly party;
but they say nothing; and if we don't use the gifts they bring, they carry them as
silently away.

These roses under my window make no reference to former roses or better ones; they
are for what they are; they exist with God to-day. There is no time to them. There is
simply the rose; it is perfect in every moment of its existence. Before a leaf-bud has
burst, its whole life acts; in the full-blown flower there is no more; in the leafless root
there is no less. Its nature is satisfied, and it satisfies nature, in all moments alike. But
man postpones or remembers; he does not live in the present, but with reverted eye
laments the past, or heedless of the riches that surround him, stands on tiptoe to foresee
the future. He cannot be happy and strong until he too lives with nature in the present,
above time. If we live truly, we shall see truly. If you follow the truth, it will bring you
out safely at last.

How the day fits itself to the mind, winds itself round it like a fine drapery, clothing
all its fancies! Any holiday communicates to us its color. We wear its cockade and
favors in our humor.

In solitude and in the country, what dignity distinguishes the holy time. The old
Sabbath, or Seventh Day, white with the religion of unknown thousands of years, when
this hallowed hour dawns out of the deep, a clean page, which the wise may inscribe
with truth, whilst the savage scrawls it with fetiches, the cathedral music of history
breathes through it a psalm to our solitude. Such are the days, the earth is the cup, the
sky is the cover, of the immense bounty of nature which is offered us for daily aliment.

One of the illusions is that the present hour is not the critical, decisive hour. Write

36 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

it on your heart that every day is the best day in the year. No man has learned anything
rightly, until he knows that every day is Doomsday. 'T is the old secret of the gods that
they come in low disguises. 'T is the vulgar great who come dizened with gold and jewels.
Real kings hide away their crowns in their wardrobes, and effect a plain and poor exterior.

Another illusion is, that there is not time enough for our work. A poor Indian chief
of the Six Nations of New York made a wiser reply than any philosopher, to some one
complaining that he had not enough time. "Well," said Red Jacket, " I suppose you have
all the time there is."

We owe to genius always the same debt, of lifting the curtain from the common, and
showing us that divinities are sitting disguised in the seeming gang of gypsies and ped-
lers. In daily life, what distinguishes the master is the using those materials he has, in-
stead of looking about for what are more renowned, or what others have used well. Do
not refuse the employment which the hour brings you, for one more ambitious. The
highest heaven of wisdom is alike near from every point, and thou must find it, if at all,
by methods native to thyself alone.

The work is ever the more pleasant to the imagination which is not now required.
How wistfully, when we have promised to attend the working committee, we look at the
distant hills and their seductions.

Zoologists may deny that horse-hair in the water changes to worms ; but I find that what-
ever is old corrupts, and the past turns to snakes. The reverence for the deeds of our
ancestors is a treacherous sentiment. Their merit was not to reverence the old, but to
honor the present moment ; and we falsely make them excuses of the very habit which
they hated and defied.

The use of history is to give value to the present hour and its duty. A third illusion
haunts us, that a long duration, as a year, a decade, a century, is valuable. But an old
French sentence says: "God works in minutes;" "Enpcu d'hetire Dicu labcurc." We
ask for long life, but 'tis deep life, or grand moments that signify. Let the measure of
time be spiritual, not mechanical. Moments of insight, of fine personal relation, a smile,
a glance, what ample borrowers of eternity they are! Life culminates and concentrates;
and Homer said: " The gods ever give to mortals their appropriate share of reason only
on one day."

I am of opinion of the poet Wordsworth: " That there is no real happiness in life, but
in intellect and virtue." I am of the opinion of Pliny: "That, whilst we are musing on
these things, we are adding to the length of our lives." I am of opinion of Glauco, who
said: " The measure of life, O Socrates, is, with the wise, the speaking and hearing such
discourses as yours." He only can enrich me who can recommend to me the space
between sun and sun. 'T is the measure of a man, his apprehension of a day.

You must treat the days respectfully, you must be a day yourself, and not interrogate
it like a college professor. The world is enigmatical, everything said, and everything
known or done, and must not be taken literally, but genially. We must be at the top of
our condition to understand anything rightly. You must hear the bird's song without

TO-DAY. 37

attempting to render it into nouns and verbs. Cannot we be a little abstemious and obe-
dient? Cannot we let the morning alone? There can be no greatness without abandonment.

Just to fill the hour, that is happiness. Fill my hour, ye gods, so I shall not say t
whilst I have done this, ' Behold, alas, an hour of my life has gone,' but rather, ' I have
lived an hour." "

And such should be the outward biography of man in time, a putting off of dead cir-
cumstances day by day, as he renews his raiment day after day. The hours should be
instructed by the ages, and the ages explained by the hours.

'T is pitiful the things by which we are rich or poor, a matter of coins, coats, and
carpets, a little more or less stone, or wood, or paint, the fashion of a cloak or hat ; like
the luck of naked Indians, of whom one is proud in the possession of a glass bead or a
red feather, and the rest miserable in the want of it. But the treasures which Nature
spent itself to amass, the secular, refined, composite anatomy of man, which all strata
go to form, which the prior races, from infusory and saurian, existed to ripen; the sur-
rounding plastic natures; the earth with its floods; the intellectual, temperamenting air;
the sea with its invitations; the heavens with deep worlds; and the answering brain and
nervous structure replying to these; the eye that looketh into the deeps, which again
look back to the eye, abyss to abyss; these, not like a glass bead, or the coins or carpets,
are given immeasurably to all. And this is the progress of every earnest mind; from the
works of man and the activity of the hands to a delight in the faculties which rule them;
from a respect to the works to a wise wonder at this mystic element of time in which he
is conditioned; and local skills and the economy which reckons the amount of production
per hour to the finer economy which respects the quality of what is done, and the right
we have to the work, or the fidelity with which it flows from ourselves; then to depth of
thought it betrays, looking to its universality, or, that its roots are in eternity, not in time.
Then it flows from character, that sublime health which values one moment as another,
and make us great in all conditions, and is the only definition we have of freedom and
power.

, That which befits us, imbosomed in beauty and wonder as we are, is cheerfulness and
courage, and the endeavor to realize our aspirations. The life of man is the true romance,
which, when it is valiantly conducted, will yield the imagination a higher joy than any
fiction. All around us, what powers are wrapped up under the coarse mattings of custom,
and all wonder prevented.

It is so wonderful to our neurologists that a man can see without his eyes, that it does
not occur to them, that it is just as wonderful, that he should see with them ; and that is
ever the difference between the wise and the unwise: the latter wonders at the unusual,
the vrise man wonders at the usual.

Shall not the heart which has received so much, trust the Power by which it lives ?
May it not quit other leadings, and listen to the Soul that has guided it so gently, and
taught it so much, secure that the future will be worthy of the past ?

EXTRACTS FROM EMERSON.

HAPPINESS.

" Love is blind, runs the phrase; nay, I would rather say, love
sees as God sees, and with infinite pardon."

Talent is power ; tact is skill. Talent is weight ; tact is mo-
mentum. Talent knows what to do ; tact knows how to do it.
Talent makes a man respectable ; tact will make him respected.
Talent is wealth ; tact is ready-money. For all the practical pur-
poses of life tact carries it against talent in proportion of ten to
one.

TACT is the lubricator of life ; it oils the machinery, it smooths away the trouble,
looks far ahead perhaps to see it, and turns things into another channel. But,
however, tact avoids the necessity of falsehood, it does not suppress the truth ; it
simply prevents references to the facts. It has a sort of self-respect which does not blazon
its affairs abroad ; it does not consider itself as using deceit when merely keeping its
own business in its own breast.

Sidney Smith says, "I have a contempt for persons who destroy themselves. Live on,
and look evil in the face ; walk up to it, and you will find it less than you imagined, and
often you will not find it at all ; for it will recede as you advance. Any fool may be a
suicide. When you are in a melancholy fit, first suspect the body, appeal to rhubarb and
calomel, and send for the apothecary, a little bit of gristle sticking in the wrong place, an
untimely consumption of custard, excessive gooseberries, often cover the mind with clouds
and bring on the most distressing views of human life. I start up at two o'clock in the
morning, after my first sleep, in an agony of terror, and feel all the weight of life upon my
soul. It is impossible that I can bring up such a family of children, my sons and daugh-
ters will be beggars ; I shall live to see those whom I love exposed to the scorn and con-
tumely of the world !

But stop, thou child of sorrow, and humble imitator of Job, and tell me on what you
dined. Was not there soup and salmon, and then a plate of beef, and then duck, blanc
mange, cream-cheese, diluted with beer, claret, champagne, hock, tea, coffee, and noyeau ?
And after all this you talk of the mind and the evils of life ! These kind of cases do not
need meditation, but magnesia. Take short views of life. What am I to do in these times
j with such a family of children ? So I argued, and lived dejected, and with little hope ,
but the difficulty vanished as life went on. An uncle died, and left me some money ; an
aunt died, and left me more ; my daughter married well ; I had two or three appoint-
ments, and before life was half over became a prosperous man. And so will you. Every
one has uncles and aunts who are mortal. Time brings a thousand chances in your favor.
Nothing so absurd as to sit down and wrng your hands because all the good which may
liappen you in twenty years has not taken place at this precise moment. Nothing contri-
butes more certainly to the animal spirits than benevolence.

HAPPINESS. 39

Servants and common people are always about you ; make moderate attempts to please
everybody, and the effort will insensibly lead you to a more happy state of mind. Pleas-
ure is very reflective, and if you give it you will feel it. The pleasure you give by kind-
ness of manner returns to you, and often with compound interest. The receipt for cheer-
fulness is not to have one motive only in the day for living, but a number of little motives;
a man who, from the time he rises till bedtime, conducts himself like a gentleman, who
throws some little condescension into his manner to superiors, and who is always contriving
to soften the distance between himself and the poor and ignorant, is always improving
his animal spirits, and adding to his happiness."

A rule for living happily with others is to avoid having stock subjects for disputation.
It mostly happens, when people live much together, they have come to have certain set
topics, around which, from frequent dispute, there is such a growth of angry words, mor-
tified vanity, and the like, that the original subject of difference becomes a standing sub-
ject for quarrel, and there is a tendency in all minor disputes to drift down to it. Again,
if people wish to live well together, they must not hold too much to logic, and suppose
that everything is to be settled by sufficient reason. Dr. Johnson saw this clearly with
regard to married people when he said: "Wretched would be the pair, above all names
of wretchedness, who should be doomed to adjust by reason, every morning, all the min-
ute detail of the domestic day." But the application should be much more general than
he made it. There is no time for such reasonings, and nothing that is worth them. And
when we recollect how two lawyers or two politicians can go on contending, and that
there is no end of one-sided reasoning on any subject, we shall not be sure that such con-
tention is the best mode of arriving at truth. But certainly it is not the way to arrive at
good temper.

" How a stray sentence, a popular saying, the maxim of some wise man, a line accident-
ally fallen upon and remembered, will sometimes help one when he is all ready to be vexed
and indignant," says Dr. Holmes in his preface to the new edition of "The Professor at
the Breakfast Table." "One day in the time when I was young or youngish, I happened
to open a small copy of ' Tom Jones ' and glanced at the title-page. There was .one of
those little engravings opposite which bore the familiar name of ' T. Nevins ' as I remem-
ber it, and under it the words ' Mr. Partridge bore all this patiently.' How many times
when, after rough usage from ill-mannered critics, my own vocabulary of vituperation was
simmering in such a lively way that it threatened to boil and lift its lid, and so boil over,
those words have calmed the small internal effervescence! There is very little in them
and very little of them, and so there is not much in a linch-pin considered by itself, but it
often keeps a wheel from coming off and prevents what might be a catastrophe."

Happiness is like manna; it is to be gathered in grains, and enjoyed every day. It
will not keep; it cannot be accumulated; nor have we to go out of ourselves or into remote
places to gather it, since it has rained down from heaven at our very doors, or rather
within them.

All cannot be beautiful, but they can be sweet-tempered, and a sweet temper gives a

40 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

loveliness to the face more attractive in the long run than beauty. Have a sm-ile and a kind
word for all. A sweet temper is to the household what sunshine is to the trees and flowers.
What a stimulant kindness is to the most stubborn or dull disposition !

Walter Besants' interesting suggestion for making people good by making them happy,
is commendable.

Nothing could be more appropriate and beautiful than Jennie June's invocation to St.
Valentine: " If I should invoke St. Valentine, it would not be to make havoc in the hearts
of young girls, but to live forever in the homes of married lovers; to bind still closer the
golden cords; to tie up broken threads; to heal occasional wounds; to cast a veil of ob-
livion over the hasty word; to weave into one shining fabric the trust, the love, the peace,
the unity of happy wedded life, and with it invest all who enter the holy order of
matrimony."

MY TALISMAN.

ESTHER G. BARCLAY.

I've a precious little talisman
Lying close upon my heart,

And all the gold of Croesus
Could not buy that little chart.

It keeps me brave and hopeful,

Through the gloomiest, darkest day;

It guides my doubting footsteps
To the safest, surest way.

It makes each toilsome duty

Seem a messenger of love,
That's but fitting and preparing

for the mansions up above.

It brings the dear departed

So very, very near,
That their wondrous songs of rapture

Methinks I almost hear.

It sheds its brightening radiance
Through the vale we long to flee;

It guides the spirit upwards,
Till the Pearly Gates we see.

And this simple little talisman,
By a glorious King is given,

To each and all who ask Him,

As their guide from earth to heaven.

aith's that little talisman
Lying close upon my heart,
And there's naught in life or naught in dying
That can sunder them apart;

Come near me, O, my Father,

Come very near to me ;
Thy guiding hand in darkness

Is all the light I see.

I cannot tell the reason,

I cannot see the way;
The darkness of earth's shadows

Shuts out the light of day.

O, may I learn the lesson
That Thou would'st teach to me,

And trust Thee blindly, simply,
In all I cannot see.

A child should trust a father,
If that father's child it be:

O, make me feel it fully,
And leave it all to Thee.

ORDERLY DOMESTIC MANAGEMENT.

" As order is heaven's first law in the Universe, " Happy in this, she's not yet too old

so should it be the first law of conduct in the But she may learn; and happier than this,

regulation of the household." She is not bred so dull but she can learn."

EVERY woman should understand the elemental, the chemical, principles of cooking,
and an appreciation of geometrical precision requisite for neatness and order in
her own household. No place can be like home unless scrupulously clean
and orderly.

An orderly domestic management securing a selection of wholesome food, skill in
cooking, nicety in the appointments and regularity in the formalities of the table, and that
social intercourse of the well regulated family which not only takes away the grossness of
eating, but adds to the delight of refinement the satisfaction of health, will offer just the
requisites to wholesome living. There will then be no occasion for enquiring as to the
healthfulness of this or that mode of eating or drinking, or the digestibility of this or that
article of food, or the raising of any question which may disturb the mind with anxiety
about the needs and capabilities of the body, which is so apt to derange the functions of
the digestive organs.

With regard to a plan of household work. Whether an establishment be la.rge or small,
positive rules should be laid down for observance in all that relates to the comfort of the
family and the dispatch of the work.

The old adage "A place for everything, and everything in its place," is not half under-
stood or appreciated, until each member of a family puts everything they use in its place
the moment they are done with it. The result will be convincing in the amount of
domestic worry avoided and labor lightened.

" But the tact to manage a household in an orderly manner doesn't always come with
the knowledge of its necessity, nor even with the desire on the part of the mistress to so
manage. She must understand thoroughly how to control her servants." The manage-
ment of the servants being the management of the house itself. In engaging them, try to
discover whether they are competent to fulfill the particular duties to be required of them.
There will be no difficulties in this if they are really competent. Then agree to pay them
what their competency is worth.

RECIPE FOR ORDERLY DOMESTIC MANAGEMENT.

Let the mistress of the house take two pounds of the very best self-control, one and a
half pounds of justice, one pound of consideration, five pounds of patience, and one
pound of discipline. Let this be sweetened with charity, let it simmer well, and let it
be taken daily; in extreme cases in hourly doses, and be kept always on hand, then the
domestic wheels will run quite smoothly.

" Exhort servants to be obedient unto their own masters, and to please them well in all
things; not answering again; not purloyning, but showing all good fidelity; that they may
adorn the doctrine of God our Saviour in all things." TIT. ii., 9, 10.

KEEPING HOUSE.

THE experiences of housekeeping are invaluable. They give a mental and physical
training one can obtain in no other way. , Boarding is a poor way of living as
compared with housekeeping. By all means keep house, even though in a small way.
No young housekeeper need be discouraged if she does not at once succeed in everything
she attempts. With experience only, and with the cultivation of good judgment, will the
desired results be accomplished. No rule, no recipe can be so exact as not to require the
use of judgment. Conditions vary. Circumstances are not always the same. Emergen-
cies will arise when the use of quick wit and tact will be necessary to keep the wheels of
the household machinery from being clogged, or from stopping entirely. Nowhere will
there be so excellent an opportunity for the cultivation of wit and tact as in housekeeping.
It is considered by some to be dull and prosaic, fit only for menials. On the contrary,
the mistress of a household has great resources at her command, and great services to
perform. She is queen of a small realm which she may make an Arcadia, if she will. But
this requires time. . Not all at once do we reach any much desired end. However thor-
oughly a young woman may have been taught to perform various domestic offices at home
with her mother, she will find her knowledge of housekeeping limited when thrown upon
her own resources; and if this be true, how will it be with those who have no knowledge,
no experience, but who have been taught to consider a total ignorance of all the domestic
arts something of which to be proud ?

If girls could look into the future and see how helpless a woman is who is ignorant of
every form of labor, how dependent she is upon poor servants, how she fails when tried
in the balance of adversity, if they could only know the unhappiness in homes, the actual
suffering when reverses come, would they, oh, would they still think it degrading to learn
how to be useful, especially in their own homes ?

Learn to perform all kinds of household labor that you may direct others, and that
you may, at need, be able to perform them yourself. If you have no opportunity to do
this till you are married, then begin at once. At first there will be many failures, and
much cause for chagrin; but patience and perseverance will at length overcome all diffi-
culties. One of the great trials will be that the husband will not be likely to appreciate
the obstacles in the way of immediate success. Try not to mind this. How can he ap-
preciate them ? He is as ignorant of them as a child. Only be patient with him as well
as with yourself, and make him feel that you are trying to learn, and that you fully expect
to astonish him ere long with your efficiency and proficiency in everything pertaining to
his comfort, and to the delightfulness of your home.

Expect failures. The first bread you make will in all probability be poor. The first
time you make jelly, it may not "jell;" but the second or third time the bread will be ex-
cellent, and the jelly delicious. The best way is to experiment upon small quantities, for
cooking must be more or less of an experiment. Whatever happens, be bright, and do not
let the shadows enter your home. LOUISE HEYWOOD REYNOLDS.

EMERSON ON THE BABY.

THE perfection of the providence for childhood is easily acknowledged. The care
which covers the seed of the tree under tough and stony cases, provides for the
human plant the mother's breast and the father's house. The size of the nestler is
comic, and its tiny beseeching weakness is compensated perfectly by the happy patroniz-
ing look of the mother, who is a sort of high reposing Providence toward it. Welcome to
the parents the puny struggler, strong in his weakness, his little arms more irresistible than
the soldier's, his lips touched with persuasion which Chatham and Pericles in manhood had
not. His unaffected lamentations when he lifts up his voice on high, or, more beautiful,
the sobbing child, the face all liquid grief, as he tries to swallow his vexation, soften all
hearts to pity, and to mirthful and clamorous compassion. The small despot asks so little
that all reason and all nature are on his side. His ignorance is more charming than all
knowledge, and his little sins more bewitching than any virtue. His flesh is angel's flesh,
all alive. " Infancy," said Coleridge, " presents body and spirit in unity : the body is all
animated." All day, between his three or four sleeps, he coos like a pigeon-house, sput-
ters and spurs, and puts on his faces of importance ; and when he fasts, the little Pharisee
fails not to sound his trumpet before him. By lamplight he delights in shadows on the
walls ; by daylight, in yellow and scarlet. Carry him out of doors, he is overpowered by
the light and by the extent of natural objects, and is silent. Then presently begins his
use of his fingers, and he studies power, the lesson of his race. First it appears in no
great harm, in architectural tastes. Out of blocks, thread-spools, cards, and checkers, he
will build his pyramid with the gravity of Palladio. With an acoustic apparatus of whistle
and rattle he explores the laws of sound. But chiefly, like his senior countrymen, the
young American studies new and speedier modes of transportation. Mistrusting the cun-
ning of his small legs, he wishes to ride on the necks and shoulders of all flesh. The
small enchanter nothing can withstand, seniority of age, no gravity of character ; uncles,
aunts, grandsires, grandames, fall an easy prey : he conforms to nobody, all conform to
him ; all caper, and make mouths, and babble, and chirrup to him. On the strongest
shoulders he rides, and pulls the hair of laurelled heads. The chiid realizes to every man his
own earliest remembrance, and so supplies a defect in our education, or enabling us to live
over the unconscious history with a sympathy so tender as to be almost personal experience.
The first ride into the country, the first bath in running water, the first time the skates
are put on, the first game out of doors in moonlight, the books of the nursery, are chapters
of joy. "The Arabian Nights' Entertainments," " Robinson Crusoe," and the "Pilgrim's
Progress," what mines of thought and emotion, what a wardrobe to dress the whole world
withal, are in this encyclopaedia of young thinking! And so by beautiful traits, which,
without art, yet seem the master-piece of wisdom, provoking the love that watches and
educates him, the little pilgrim prosecutes the journey through nature which he has thus
gayly begun. He grows up the ornament and joy of the house, which rings to his glee,
to rosy boyhood.

4.3

MR. RUSKIN'S IDEAS OF A MODEL NURSERY.

" A leaf, a sunbeam, a landscape, the ocean, make an analogous impression on the
mind. What is common to them all, that perfectness and harmony, is beauty.
The standard of beauty is the entire circuit of natural forms, the totality of nature."

EMERSON.

BECAUSE a man knows a great deal about art, literature and philosophy is no rea-
son for considering him an expert in caring for babies. But still, Mr. John Ruskin's
ideas of a model nursery are of interest, right or wrong, and so here they are, as
given by him in a letter which has just been published in England.

"I have never," he says, " written a pamphlet on nurseries; first, because I never write
about anything except what I know more of than most other persons; secondly, because I
think nothing much matters in a nursery except the mother, the nurse and the air. So
far as I have notion or guess in the matter myself, beyond the perfection of these three
necessary elements, I should say the rougher and plainer everything the better no lace
to cradle or cap, hardest possible bed, and simplest possible food, according to age, and
floor and walls of the cleanablest. All education to beauty, is, first, in the beauty of
gentle human faces round a child; secondly, in the fields, fields meaning grass, water,
beasts, flowers and sky. Without these no man can be educated humanly. He may be
made a calculating machine, a walking dictionary, a painter of dead bodies, a twanger or
scratcher on keys or catgut, a discoverer of new forms of worms in mud; but a properly
so-called human being never. Pictures are, I believe, of no use whatever by themselves.
If the child has other things right round it and given to it its garden, its cat, and its
window to the sky and stars in time, pictures of flowers and beasts, and things in heaven
and heavenly earth, may be useful to it. But see first fhat its realities are heavenly."

SUNSHINE AND VENTILATION.

Sunshine has been shown to be'one of the most potent and efficacious agents in the
relief and cure of disease, known to the medical profession.

A proper supply of pure air is essential for the preservation of life and health. The
importance of sunlight, for physical development, is much undervalued. Airy, well-venti-
lated sleeping apartments should be regarded as one of the most important requirements
of life, both in health and in sickness.

Bed-rooms, in which about one-third of human life is passed, are generally too small,
and badly ventilated. The doors and windows, and even chimneys, are often closed, and
every aperture carefully guarded to exclude fresh air. The consequence is, that long
before morning dawns, the atmosphere of the whole apartment becomes highly noxious
from the consumption of its oxygen, the formation of carbonic gas, and the exhalation
from the lungs and skin. Due provision for the uninterrupted admission of fresh air, secures
lighter and more invigorating sleep. In whatever way fresh air is obtained, it should be
dispersed as much as possible to avoid currents.
44

CLEANLINESS.

' ' Beauty is valuable ; it is one of the
tics ; and a strong tie too, that, how-
ever, cannot last to an old age ; but
the charm of cleanliness never dies
ifev but with life itself."

CLEANLINESS is
next to Godliness.
This familiar say-
ing has been traced,
we believe, no further
than to John Wesley's
Sermon XCIL, "On
Dress," where it ap-
pears as a quotation.
A possible source is
Bacon's remark in
the " Advancement
of Learning," Book
II., that "Cleanness
of body was ever es-
teemed to proceed
from a due rever-
ence to God."

"The man-
ner of putting
on a dress is
1 no bad foun-
dation for
^. judging
if it be
carelessly,
slovenly,

46 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

if it do not fit properly. No matter for its mean quality; mean as it may be, it may be
neatly and trimly put on; and if it be not, take care of yourself, for, as you will soon find
to your cost, a sloven in one thing, is a sloven in all things.

The country people judge greatly from the state of the covering of the ankles; and if
that be not clean and tight, they conclude that all out of sight is not what it ought to be.
Look at the shoes; if they be trodden on one side, loose on the foot, or run down at the
heel, it is a very bad sign; and as to slip-shod, though at coming down in the morning,
and even before daylight, make up your mind to bachelorhood rather than live with a slip-
shod wife."

" Oh! how much do women lose by inattention to these matters! Men, in general, say
nothing about it to their wives, but they think about it, they envy their luckier neighbors;
and in numerous cases, consequences the most serious arise from this apparently trifling
cause."

Beauty is very much of an art after all. The lily and rose complexions, the perfect
luxuriance of hair, the general perfection of face and form, are very seldom the gift of
chance conditions. The most beautiful woman, as a general thing, is the woman who
knows how to attend to her toilet, and it should form a matter of instruction in the educa-
tion of every young girl. Between the two extremes of artificiality and of reformers'
hygienic notions women get bewildered. The latter, if carried out to the letter, make
women outre in the extreme, and the former tend to disgust delicate and pure-minded
women, so between the two the average woman of home and society lets herself severely
alone, and consequently is not half as pretty as she might be.

Emerson says of the English, "They are positive, methodical, cleanly, and formal,
loving routine, and conventional ways; loving truth and religion, to be sure, but inexor-
able on points of form. All the world praises the comfort and private appointments of
an English inn, and of English households. You are sure of neatness and of personal
decorum. A Frenchman may possibly be clean: an Englishman is conscientiously clean.
A certain order and complete propriety is found in his dress and in his belongings."

Rooms should be thoroughly swept, thoroughly dusted, thoroughly ventilated, and
thoroughly warmed. Beginning fires at the first intimation of chilliness continuing till
the latest breath has vanished.

Carpets should be thoroughly swept once a week. Bits of paper free from printing
ink, saturated with water, is best for sweeping carpets, tea-leaves are apt to stain, and salt
to rot. The first dust should be removed with a feather duster then with a soft cloth.
The feather duster should be well shaken after it is used, and washed frequently, as it
accumulates dust, and if not kept clean it will leave a deposit of dust upon everything it
touches, instead of removing it. Lambrequins, draperies, ceiling, walls, and behind pic-
tures should be thoroughly dusted once a week. Windows thrown open once a day ad-
mitting all the sunlight possible. Table linen should be kept perfectly white, laundried
without starch, beautifully polished and thoroughly dried when ironed. The silver bright,
the china and glass, glistening in their irreproachable cleanliness.

FOOD AND DRINK.

Faces speedily gain beauty under fit care and food. DR. HOLMES.

U "T "*HE saying that every house has a skeleton in its closet has more fact than poetry

about it, if we are to take the evidence of our sense of smell. You come upon

the skeleton behind the door of an unaired clothes-closet press, where soiled things

and stale bedroom odors have their own way week after week, till you wonder nice girls can

bear to put on dresses which hang in them.

Too many pantries and food closets have their spectres, if we judge by the moldering,
unsatisfactory odors about ice-box and meat-safe, and the worst is, that it doesn't stay
there, but comes out in the shape of dull headaches and sore throats and low fevers which
haunt the house.

This is serious talk, but it isn't more serious than the facts call for. Doctors who spend
their lives looking into these things, tell us that every year, out of a certain number in town
or country, beside the old and infirm, those who inherit disease or die of accident, twenty
thousand die needlessly of illness from bad air and bad food. They are not all poor folks
who live in squalid, fever-stricken alleys and must buy the refuse of the markets to eat at
all. The most luxurious homes suffer equally with the poor, and no house is safe until the
skeleton has been hunted out and laid permanently by daily, intelligent care.

Housekeeping is not a mere matter of comfort and respectability, and every woman
and girl must learn their responsibilities ; for the health, strength and life of the family is
in their hands. The food people eat three times a day, the water they drink, the air they
breathe, constantly have more to do with their happiness and success than money or tal-
ents, and more to do with their long life than any other care and medicine.

Pure water is growing scarcer to find as the country is older and more closely settled.
For water may look clear as mountain brooks and taste sweet as the rill from a glacier, yet
be very unsafe to use. One thing you may be sure of, that though water which is bright
and sparkling may be unsafe to drink, water which isn't clear, and looks and tastes un-
pleasant, is sure to be dangerous.

What are you going to do about it ? Use filtered water for drinking and cooking entirely.
You can buy a filter for five dollars, and you will find it the best use you can make of the
money. Let alone health and safety, in a week after using it you will begin to wonder why the
meat and vegetables taste so much better, and remark how much better tea and coffee this
seems to be than the last you had, and after a little you will discover it is owing to the fil-
tered water. Everything cooked in pure water has a finer taste, and tea and coffee are not
the same things made with it. But a filter wants care ; for the sponge which strains the
worst impurities out of the water, should be washed and dried in the sun, or in the oven
every day, or it soon grows foul. The best way is to have two sets of sponge, and let one air
all day white the other is in use. Then the packing of sand and charcoal in time is clogged

48 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

with impurities which begin to wash back into the water, and the sand has to be washed,
sunned and dried and the charcoal burnt over in a red-hot retort to consume the waste
with which it is loaded.

Be sure to get one of the new filters with two sets of strainers, which can be unscrewed
as easily as you take the mold out of an ice-cream freezer, so that one set can be
cleansed while the other is at work. To make sure of pure water, change the packing
once in three months. If you cannot have a filter, and are not certain of the safety of the
water, boil it, and let it cool in a porous earthen jar in the shade and wind. Boiling frees
it from animalcula or vegetable matter, and softens it, and emigrants whose neighbors were
sickening all around them from bad water of ponds and marshy springs, have kept in

- perfect health by drinking no water which had not first been boiled.

J You can't have food fit to eat that is kept in a close cupboard, however clean. If you
have but a closet to keep food in, it must have a window and a gentle draft of air to
carry off the odors which else will spoil all the more delicate flavors. For the odors of
food are its finer parts, and in an airless closet these settle and are absorbed by the wood,
the plaster, the milk and butter, the flour and other eatables. Then you have the butter
turning cheesy or frowy, the cream taking a bad taste, the milk souring sooner than it
ought, the very pies, bread, and flour losing their wholesome sweetness. In the store-
room you can't keep salt fish, sour milk, cheese and onions in all their fragrance, and have
anything else nice.

If you would have wholesome food, keep the pantry window down at the top night
and day, except in the coldest weather.

Food of all kinds keeps better on clean dishes, so don't think it too much trouble to
pour the gravy into a fresh bowl and put the slices of meat on a clean plate, and turn the
few spoonfuls of jam into a saucer, instead of leaving it in the smeary compotier, which
is a better name than our awkward "sauce-dish." Reason why: thin smears and daubs of
food spoil soon and help spoil the rest. Especially see that the milk, cream and butter are
put away in clean ware. Milk will keep longer for this precaution. Then everything must
be closely covered with cloth and small plates. It is well to buy different sizes of cheap
ware for covers, and the odd little pottery mugs, bowls and pitchers are very convenient
for holding bits and ends of food too good to throw away. Besides food keeps better in
this ware than in anything else.

Fat of all kinds needs the nicest care to be sweet and wholesome, for nothing takes
odors more rapidly, and if you leave cupfuls of grease, or drippings, to stand open in the
closet, you must expect to find a queer flavor in your fried potatoes, and several different
savors in the plain pie-crust beside the one you wanted. Keep all fat for cooking in a
small stone jar, well covered, try it out once a week into a clean jar and let it cool uncov-
ered in a draft of air. In winter set it out doors to freeze, which refines it remarkably.
At other times keep it tightly covered in the ice-box. Fat that has absorbed a coarse
taste can be purified by freezing and become good again. Keep butter in a small stone
jar, closely covered top and sides, with clean linen cloths, with a large cloth and wooden

FOOD AND DRINK. 49

cover over all. Butter soon loses its best flavor when open, and becomes not much better
than so much suet. As good butter is the keynote of the table, and as poor butter is a very
unwholesome thing to eat at all, you must pay particular attention to its keeping. A plate
of it that has been shut up in a closet with meat, left-over food and close air, is not fit to
enter the stomach of a human being. Keep milk in the purest, coldest air you can find,
with a thin cloth over it. Don't take the warm new milk that hasn't had time to get cold
since the milkman's cart hurried off with it from the cow, and set it away in a tightly
stoppered can, for all milk wants to stand open to the air, that the animal heat and flavors
may pass off thoroughly; if this isn't done, the particles in the milk decompose, giving the
unpleasant odor you will notice in close cans, and making it unfit to use.

Dairies which keep the milk in huge close tin drawers or cans instead of open pans,
make a great mistake, for neither butter nor milk kept in this way is fit for food, nor will
it keep nearly as long as it should. Never let milk stand near a sink or any refuse. I
have heard of children who took diphtheria from milk which had absorbed sewer air from
the vent of a stationary wash-basin where the nurse kept the pitcher cool at night. If you
must keep milk in a sick-room, nursery, or a close closet, let it cool and air for three hours
in the best place you can find for it, then put it in a tight can, with a flannel case, and set
it in a shallow pan of water in a draft, which will keep it cool and preserve it sweet as
long as possible.

The care of meat is a nice thing, too, and for the health of the family, needs more
attention than it oftens gets. After it has been well-chosen, bright colored, fine grained,
with a firm white fat, freshly cut, with no dried or darkened edges or corners to spoil, and
sent home, it must not lie in paper one moment more than is necessary, for paper, which
is nothing but pulp of rotten rags, glue and lime, spoils food very soon. Take the meat
out, and the first thing, scrape it clean all over. You hear persons, tell you to wash meat
before cooking, and others say it should be wiped only, for water washes away the flavor,
but scraping removes all that is not good, and the meat keeps better for being put away
clean.

Fish should be cleaned and wiped with a coarse towel and lie wrapped in a clean dry
cloth with salt over it.

Meat may be kept without salt by searing the outsides and letting each cook half a
minute. This closes the pores so that the juice does not escape, and the air cannot
readily affect the flesh; it will make the meat tender. Keep it in pure air, away from
sour milk, yeast, salt fish, or any strong flavors, for meat and flour absorb bad air as well as
butter, and spoil the quicker for it. Vegetables need a cool, dark place, where they will
not freeze. They should have clean bins or boxes, and be cleaned themselves when
stored. A furnace-warmed cellar is no place for them. A cold, dark cellar or garret is
the best place for fruit, which should be often sorted and picked over. Apples take bad
flavors from being with other stores. Pick out all inferior and bruised ones first, and
make them into apple butter, which is the best way of keeping them, and is always ready
for pies, and as a compote.

50 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

Potatoes should be picked over in February, and scalded in a kettle of boiling water
for two or three minutes, to prevent sprouting. You will find your spring potatoes much
better for it.

Onions should be kept in shallow boxes, and need as much looking after as choice
fruit, for they are very sensitive to bad air, and, when not in the best condition, are about
as healthy to eat as diseased meat. When perfectly sound there is no healthier food than
onions. Fruits and vegetables should be put up in glass jars exclusively. Sour vege-
tables, or fruit shut up in tin cans six months, cannot be the most wholesome.

The rind of cucumbers contains a very strong purgative, which is the reason why one
should be very careful to pare them perfectly, and soak them in cold water an hour to ex-
tract the drastic juice. One last word : Never serve any dish of whose perfect sweetness
you are not entirely sure. The slightest stale, flat or changed taste is reason enough to
throw it away. I knew a whole family made violently ill by eating a soup which stood a.
trifle too long in warm weather. Not one of those who ate it tasted anything amiss, but
the cook confessed she couldn't be sure whether anything was the matter with it or not,
and she thought it too good to throw away. I don't think any of those persons got well
of the sickness the whole summer for this paltry economy. The reason why such care is
urged in keeping and storing food, and keeping dishes and cooking utensils strictly clean,
is because the little decay or ferment, such as gives the rank smell to ill-washed kettles,
will start a change in food which is very dangerous in the system.

The ice-box or refrigerator requires a good deal of care. The waste pipe should be
in order, so that no water stands in the box, for water melts ice, and moisture spoils food
quickly. The box should be washed thoroughly with strong hot suds, rinsing with cold
water, wiping and airing before fresh ice is put in. It is a good plan to keep lumps
of charcoal in each compartment to purify the air, and absorb any odors that may escape.

"When your mother or aunt complains of dinner not agreeing with her, or one of the
boys calls out in the night for Jamaica ginger, you don't think that the slightly sour bread, or
the canned tomatoes that had grown sharp, or the stew that had changed, "not enough to
hurt," as most cooks say those few drops of cankering acid, or yeastly ferment have
acted on the sensitive juices and tissues of the body like verdigris or calomel. People can
eat food that isn't just right a good while and not notice the effect, but nature always pays
her debts. These things have what doctors call a cumulative effect, which means that it
grows stronger by repetition, till an ulcerated sore throat, or attack of colic, pulls one
down, and he never gets his strength fully back again.

Be thankful if you have senses which quickly warn you of unwholesome air. Never
mind if dull persons tell you that "the smell is in your imagination," for the fault lies with
them not you. If all this watching and looking after things seems too much effort, re-
member that the thing in this world which can be done without effort and care is not
worth attempting, and the best inheritance in this world is an athletic, healthy spirit, in
love with work for its own sake, and which counts its ends worth all the strength and
striving one can put forth."

ENTHUSIASM OF LABOR.

" Labor is God's ordinance." If you have great talents, industry will improve

them ; if moderate abilities, industry will supply
their deficiency. Nothing is denied to well-directed
labor. Nothing is ever to be attained without it.

THE two great efforts of modern times are to dignify labor, and to make it pleasant.
In fact we are every day witnessing the spectacle of the blending together of all
classes. Nobles become artisans, and artisans become nobles. It seems that rnan
has discovered That labor is God's ordinance; that the universe itself exists only by the vir-
tue of everlasting toil. This is seen in all things around us in heaven, in earth, and in the
sea. The brightest and noblest names of this age were made so by skill in the mechanic
arts.

But while efforts, and successful efforts have been made to ennoble labor, but for the
complete accomplishment, there remains to be created what may be termed an enthusiasm
of labor, having the whole system so organized that all kinds of toil, however severe or
disagreeable, will be sought after with avidity, and with the same enthusiasm as men now
aspire to accomplish the most difficult and dangerous feats. It was a noble thought of
Fourier, which gave a favorable idea of his system, to distinguish in his Phalanx a class as
the Sacred Band, by whom whatever duties were disagreeable, and likely to be omitted,
were to be assumed. We see an exemplification of it in our fire department. What labor
is more difficult and disagreeable than the duty of a fireman ? What toil is more danger-
ous ? And yet with what ardor do they rush to their work. See them brave the hottest
fires, scale the loftiest walls, to rescue the helpless one, and work for hours in the summer
heat or the cold of winter, without a murmur ! Nay, sometimes their ardor seems to in-
crease with the necessity of greater exertions, and their strength to increase with the con-
flagration. Why is this ? It is the working of enthusiasm.

" Every great and commanding moment in the annals of the world is the triumph of some
enthusiasm. The victories of the Arabs after Mahomet, who, in a few years, from a small
and mean beginning, established a larger empire than that of Rome, is an example. They
did they knew not what. The naked Derar, horsed on an idea, was found and over-
matched for a troop of Roman cavalry. The women fought like men, and conquered the
Roman men. They were miserably equipped, miserably fed. They were Temperance
troops. There was neither brandy nor flesh needed to feed them. They conquered Asia
and Africa, and Spain, on barley. The Caliph Omar's walking-stick struck more terror
into those who saw it, than another man's sword. His diet was barley bread; his sauce
was salt; and oftentimes by way of abstinence he ate his bread without salt. His drink
was water. His palace was built of mud; and when he left Medina to go to the conquest
of Jerusalem, he rode on a red camel, with a wooden platter hanging at his saddle, with a
bottle of water and two sacks, one holding barley, the ether dried fruit."

If this principle, enthusiasm, could be associated with all labor, a great result would be

5 1

5 2 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

produced. And it may be done, by the conviction that we are working out a noble des-
tiny that we are touching everywhere the springs of life and co-laborers of the Infinite
One, in beautifying, adorning, and advancing the Universe that we are one of the noble
army of industrials, through whose toil the world goes steadily forward, in the way of an
everlasting progress. We will go to our labor with joy ; nay, with enthusiasm ; because
we know our work is a kind of worship, or prayer, through whose mysterious ways we ap-
proach ever and ever nearer to the Perfect !

That kindly old Greek, Plutarch, has in his life of Numa declared his convictions that
there was once a Golden Age, in whose era there was neither master nor slave; such an
era, to be sure, there may yet be in the future, when the race shall have reached a purely
Christian that is to say morally perfect development ; but we doubt if it ever existed to
any extent in the past. For in this country where we claim that the ballot makes all
men who use it sovereigns, we acknowledge at the same time that in one sense all men are
servants.

The multitude who roll over the capitalist's money for him are no more his servants
than he is theirs; for though without question his service is seemingly pleasant and theirs
frequently painful, yet if their hands and their industry make it possible for him to procure
his luxuries, it is his money and his brains that make it possible for them to procure their
necessaries.

The condition of the served and servitor has existed since the earliest records a con-
dition likely to remain until the fullness of time. One cannot be independent of the other.
The whole fabric of society is thus one of interwoven dependence; if the employed cannot be
independent of the employer, neither can the employer be independent of the employed ;
each owes to the other a duty in the complete fulfillment of the tacit contract between
them, so that on the whole it is exactly as honorable to be a good servant as to be a good mas-
ter. And if this be true as between man and man in the outside affairs of the world, it is
equally true in domestic affairs and between woman and woman. It is, if possible, more
true; for the contact of the household is closer than any contact of business or out-door
occupation, and the persons thus brought together are more mutually dependent for com-
fort and happiness. When a woman secures another woman's service, she does not buy
her body and soul also ; and when a woman sells to another woman her honest labor, she
sells the understood value of the money; on the one hand, wages, home, consideration,
and kindness are due; on the other, work, faithfulness, and civility. Let enthusiasm be the
..watchword in the household and mutual obligation thoroughly understood. Recognize
work when conscientiously done, but do not over-praise, which will ruin the best servant.
Repeat the necessary instructions until sufficient skill is acquired, never do yourself a ser-
vant's alloted work because it is ill-done, have them do it over until they are proficient.
The lack of enthusiasm, and neglect of fulfillment of duty on both sides causes the strong
reverberating discord of " Domestic Service," in our households, and can only cease
to ring through the land, and have cause to cease when enthusiasm and mutual obligation
is exemplified by mistress and maid.

TABLE ETIQUETTE.

Meat is much, but manners is more. PROV.
He is a wise man that knows how to eat; a foolish one that don't.

" Clinging to banished customs can only be excused
in old people who are averse to changes and have
earned the right to be humored in these things."

" T T is an excellent custom of the Quakers, if only for a school of manners, the silent
prayer before meals. It has the effect to stop mirth, and introduce a moment of
reflection. After the pause, all resume their usual intercourse from a vantage
ground. What a check to the violent manners which sometimes come to the table, of
wrath, and whining, and heat in trifles! " Take plenty of time to eat.
" Manners require time, as nothing is more vulgar than haste."

" Let us leave hurry to slaves. The compliments of our breeding should recall, how-
ever remotely, the grandeur of our destiny. The compliment of this graceful self-
respect, and that of all the points of good-breeding I must require and insist upon, is
deference. I like that every chair should be a throne, and hold a king. I prefer tendency
to stateliness, to excess of fellowship."

" Never do anything in a hurry," no one in a hurry can possibly have his wits about him.
You may occasionally be in haste, but you need never be in a hurry; take care resolve .
never be so. Negligence usually occasions hurry.

We should be in a happy frame of mind, and appear at the table with light hearts and
pleasant faces.

A little delay between the courses gives time for cheerful conversation, and would be
admirable in preventing our fast eating.

Prompt attention to the hour as an invited guest, or at your own table, is of the great-
est importance.

Let your napkin fall carelessly over your knee, do not spread it over your lap, nor tuck
it under your chin, nor spread it upon your breast.

Some of a certain class of young New Yorkers are awfully proud of ex-President Arthur.
I was saying to one of them how the president's grand manner charmed everyone. Then
he gave me a very knowing look and said:

"Oh, yes; he knows how to eat soup."

" Undoubtedly, and a great many very commonplace people know how to do likewise
myself for instance."

" How do you eat it, pray ? "

" The regular regulation way, to be sure, as laid down in all the standard works on
etiquette. I take it from the point of the spoon, and no matter how much I want more,
never ask for the second plate ! "

" You're out of time; go eat soup with the mummies."

54 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

" A new departure in soup eating and I without the pale! For goodness sake, post me.

" Listen to your preceptor. The newest agony in soup, the aesthetic, the intense man -
ner of imbibing it is to take it up with the spoon away from you and drink it from the side
of the spoon, making a graceful movement from the soup to your mouth."

"As to the small salt-cellars, ' known as individual salts,' there is not a single w:>rd to
be said in their favor. In hotels they are particularly offensive, where we take off the top
only to find suspicious lumps beneath. A friend at my elbow says: ' Oh, do speak of that
dreadful habit of helping one's self to salt on the table-cloth, then taking it up on ;he
blade of the knife, beating a light tattoo over the contents jDf the plate, and finishing v ith
a decided whack!

" Never eat with your knife. Is this unnecessary advice ? Go into any restaurant or
hotel and observe."

"A point in etiquette recently decided a lawsuit in a queer way. A traveler on a Ger-
man railroad train attempted to eat a lunch while on the journey. While putting a piece
of bologna sausage in his mouth the train stopped suddenly, causing his cheek to be badly
cut on the edge of his knife, which he was using. The man sued the company for dam-
ages, but his claim was not sustained, on the ground that it is a breach of etiquette to eat
with a knife."

" A singular will has been probated at Jasper, Tenn. An old man died, leaving a
large property in trust, to be used by the trustees in any manner they may deem best to
suppress the habit prevalent among men of eating with knives when forks should be used.
The deceased says he has always felt the disadvantages of early training in that respect.
He was in the habit of reproving everybody at hotels or elsewhere he saw using knives
for eating, and was a monomaniac on the subject."

It might as well be said here of the marked improvement generally as to the use of
the knife, it is not now as universally sheathed in a man's or woman's mouth, as if they
were sword-swallowers. Thirty years ago in France, the use of the knife at dinner was
almost tabooed. The custom was to divide the food with the fork, rather an awkward
custom, as forks have generally no cutting edge, and to aid the act of conveying food to
the mouth on the fork, by means of a bit of bread ; which, by the way, is very useful in.
eating fish. Long habit makes people amazingly clever about this kind of thing. To eat
with gloves on is female snobbery. Young women who go out to parties may be lavish
, of gloves, and may be indifferent to smearing them with lobster salad, or to have the first
finger and thumb darkened where the spoon touches them. But nothing is prettier than
the freshness of a woman's hand, and the best fitting glove is, after all, but an awkward
thing. Gloved hands that feed, to keep up me whole dignity of the thing, should find
mouths which were hidden behind veils.

How the knife and fork is to be used, or what is to be done with them when the plate
is passed to be replenished ? We think the question divides itself into distinct phases, if
there is a servant, the knife and fork may be left on the plate. It is then the duty of the
attendant who carries the plate to the place of replenishment to take care of the knife and

" EAT AT YOUR OWN TABLE AS YOU WOULD AT THAT OF A KINO," SAID CONFUCIUS.

56 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

tork, putting them on one side of the plate, so as to be out of the way of the new supply
of food. But this leaving the knife and fork is quite optional. To cross, however, the
knife and fork, is inelegant, and gives extra trouble. If, however, there is no one in at-
tendance, it is wisest to retain the knife and fork, and here the individual knife-rests are
serviceable, an article for dinner service considered indispensable by English dinner givers.
As soon as seated, remove your gloves. If raw oysters are already served, you at once
begin to eat; to wait for others to commence is old-fashioned.

" The mouth should always be kept closed in eating, and both eating and drinking should
be noiseless. The mouth should always be wiped with the napkin both before and after
drinking. A wineglass is held by the stem, and not by the bowl. Never drink a glassful
at once, nor drain the last drop. No one should refuse when asked to drink with another.
It is sufficient, however, to fasten your eye upon the eye of the one asking you, bow the
head slightly, touch the glass to your lips, and again bow before setting it down. Bread
is broken at dinner. Vegetables are eaten with a fork. Asparagus can be taken up with
the fingers, if so preferred. Olives and artichokes are always so eaten. Fish and fruit are
served with silver knives and forks. If silver fish-knives are not provided, a piece of bread
in the left hand answers the purpose as well, with the fork in the right. In England, it
is considered to be underbred even to transfer the fork to the right hand. It is well to
observe what others do when doubts exist, as customs differ everywhere. Bread should
not be broken into the soup, nor the "soup-plate tilted for the last spoonful, nor the last
fragment of bread, and last morsel of food eaten. Leave a little for manners.

" Finger-glasses are used for the last course. Remove the d'oyley to the left hand, and
place the finger-glass upon it as soon as the dessert-plate has been placed before you.
The dinner napkin is to be used for wiping the fingers, and never the d'oyley, unless at
family dinners, where colored ones are used."

" Brillat Savarin, in his 'Physiologic du Gout,' speaks of finger-glasses in connection
with the small goblet of water, which is sometimes placed in them, as, 'equally useless,
indecent, and disgusting; useless, for among all those who know how to eat, the mouth
remains clean to the end of the repast; as to the hands, one should know how to use
them without soiling them; indecent, for it is generally a recognized principle that every
ablution should be hidden in the privacy of the toilette.' He brings the goblet under the
head disgusting, picturing the offensiveness of its use in most graphic language."

"The law of the table is Beauty, a respect to the common soul of every guest. Every-
thing is unseasonable which is private to two or three or any portion of the company."

" There are many persons, besides those who sin through ignorance, who seem to be
well bred in other respects, and yet consider table etiquette of too little importance to
keep up with the changes in fashion. They judge wrongly. Things trivial in themselves
go far towards making people attractive to others or otherwise. Besides, it is always un-
pleasant to find one's self ignorant of the usages of polite society."

TABLE-TALK.

If thou be master gunner, speak not all
That thou canst speak at once, but husband it,
And give men turns at speech. Do not foiesta!,
By lavishness, thine own and other's wit,
As if thou mad'st thy will. A civil guest
Will no more talk all, than eat all the feast,

JESSICA. Nay, but ask my opinion too of that.
LORENZO. I will anon; first, let us go to dinner.
JESSICA. Nay, let me praise you while I have a stomach.
LORENZO. No, pray thee, let it serve for table-talk;

Then howsoe'er thou speak'st, 'mong other things,

I shall digest it. THE MERCHANT OF VENICE.

Pray you, sit down;
For now we sit to chat as well as eat.

THE TAMING OF THE SHREW.

HATTED food," says the old proverb, "is half digested," and there is no doubt
that quiet and agreeable conversation at' meals increases enjoyment and facili-
tates digestion. The crisp remark, the brisk banter, the tart gossip, the spicy
anecdote, the sparkling wit and bubbling humor, when served up in the intervals between
the various courses, have all the exhilarating effect of wine without its dangers, prevents
dull pauses, and sustains that lively flow of the animal spirits so favorable to the due per-
formance of every function, especially that of the stomach and its associated organs. The
intrusion, however, of serious discourse and topics of business requiring deep thought
and awakening grave reflection or anxious emotion, is fatal to good digestion.

" Tact never violates for a moment this law; never introduce the orders of the house,
the vices of the absent, or a tariff of expenses, or professional privacies ; as we say, we
never talk ' shop ' before company. Lovers abstain from caresses, and haters from insults.
If you have not slept, or if you have slept, or if you have a headache, or sciatica, or lep-
rosy, or thunder-stroke, I beseech you, by all angels, to hold your peace."

" Shun the negative side. Never worry people with your contritions, nor with dismal
views of politics or society. Never name sickness, even if you could trust yourself on
that perilous topic ; beware of unmuzzling a valetudinarian, who will soon give you your
fill of it."

Among the guests are some, perhaps, of the highest rank, always some of high political
importance, about whom the interests of busy life gathers, intermixed with others eminent
already in literature or art, or of the dawning promise which the hostess delights to dis-
cover and the host to smile upon. All are assembled for the purpose of enjoyment ; the

5 8 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

anxieties of the minister, the feverish struggle of the partisan, the silent toils of the artist
or critic, are finished for the day ; professional and literary jealousies are hushed; sickness,
decrepitude and death are silently voted shadows ; and the brilliant assemblage is pre-
pared to exercise to the highest degree the extraordinary privileges of mortals to live in
the knowledge of mortality without its consciousness, and to people the present hour with
delights, as if a man lived and laughed and enjoyed in this forever. Every appliance of
physical luxury which the most delicate art can supply, attends on each; every faint wish
which luxury creates is anticipated ; the noblest and most gracious countenance in
the world smiles over the happiness it is diffusing, and redoubles it by cordial invitations
and encouraging words, which set the humblest scranger guest at perfect ease.

As dinner emerges into the dessert, and the sunset casts a richer glow on the branches,
still or lightly moving in the evening light, and on the scene within, the harmony of all
sensations becomes more perfect ; a delighted and delighting laugh invites attention to
some joyous sally of the richest intellectual wit reflected in the faces of all.

One happy peculiarity of these assemblies is the number of persons in different stations
and of various celebrity, who are gratified by seeing, still more, in hearing and knowing
each other ; the statesman is relieved from care by association with the poet of whom he
has heard and partially read ; and the poet is elevated by the courtesy, and each feel, not
rarely, the true dignity of the other, modestly expanding under the most genial auspices.

In Mrs. Dodge's " Theophilus and Others," is facetiously recorded a bit of modern
conversation. "You should have seen Hobkins at our table. I'd no idea plain diet
could be so suggestive. He found spectrum analysis in the salt cellars, international
rowing matches in the spoons, balloon traveling in the omelet, and co-operative house-
keeping in the hash. He drew 'survival of the fittest ' from the cheese; and, as John
confidentially remarked, actually shook kindergartens and juvenile delinquents out of the
baby's feeding-apron. He found prison discipline in the bread ; and female colleges,
universal sufferage, and bland opinions generally, in the butter. The calves'-head soup
brought forth capital punishment ; the beef, labor-union systems ; and the dessert was
full of ' Gates Ajar ' and spiritual manifestations. Once, while filling his teacup, I felt
as if I was pouring out the entire Suez Canal, and I am sure I often dropped in a railroad
accident with the sugar. What with iron cars, and elastic platforms, and wide gauges, and
new brakes, car-starters, and compensating expansible rail-joinings, I grew confused in
spite of myself."

Apologies for poor dinners are out of place. Shakespeare says:
And oftentimes excusing of a fault
Doth make the fault the worse by the excuse.

English stories, bon-mots, and the recorded table-talk of their wits, are as good as the
best of the French. In America we are apt scholars, but have not yet attained the same
perfection. Conversation fills up the gaps, supplies all deficiencies. What a good trait
is recorded of Madame de Maintenon, that, during dinner, the servant slipped to her side,
u Please, Madame, one anecdote more, for there is no roast to-day."

DINNER GIVING.

" We ask persons to dine with us because we like them for certain
inherent qualities." Good sister let us dine and never fret.

A table full of welcome makes scarce one dainty dish.
Better cheer may you have, but not with better heart. COMEDY OF ERRORS.
Bid them cover the table, serve the meat and we will come in to dinner. MERCHANT OK VENICE.

'* T F our circle of friends be large we must be acquainted with many who differ ex-
tremely in all their social characteristics, to say nothing of their pursuits, sympa-
thies, and occupations ; and it is, therefore, by a judicious admixture of the guests
that we bring about a successful party.

A bad habit prevails among inexperienced dinner-givers of inviting to their own house
precisely the same company whom they met, only a week or two previously, at the house
of a common friend. If the first party was a great success, the second is more likely to
be a failure, although it was that very success which induced the repetition. The common
friends assembled, however fond they may be of each other, can hardly carry on the bril-
liant or attractive tone of conversation of the first to the second edition, especially when,
as is frequently the case, there has been not more than a week or fortnight's interval. It
is not sufficient merely to change the rooms and the positions of the host and hostess ;
some new elements are needed to season the talk, and so bring in some fresh ideas.

This is no evidence of disregard or unfriendliness ; it is only the natural craving for
fresh whetstones for the tongue, and I must not be understood to mean that it is a desire
for the sake of change. Of course I am assuming if we do meet anyone, to whom we are
only partially or not all known, there will be something in them which will accord pleas-
antly with ourselves.

You may bring all your friends to know each other by turns, to become gradually inti-
mate with each other, and even to like each other by these means.

" A grand dinner cannot be managed to the entire satisfaction of host and guests,
unless it is under the management of professionals, whose trade and business is the sup-
plying of every necessity; they have trained waiters table service, with full knowledge
of the quantity and requirements, in accordance with the entertainer's wishes. By the em-
ployment of professionals, the hostess is relieved of a mountain of care, work, and anxiety.

The fashion is increasing of giving large dinner parties outside of your own house
then all trouble is at an end. The host and hostess, only in name, are enjoying the feast
the same as their invited guests. All invitations should be issued a week or ten days pre-
v.'ously, in the joint names of host and hostess.

R. S. V. P. placed upon invitations, to the refined, would be a reflection upon their
knowledge of etiquette and good breeding ; but nevertheless is used to a great degree,
because of the thoughtlessness or carelessness of the invited to respond at once, accepting
or declining. The necessity of an immediate answer to a dinner invitation is evident, to

60 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

enable the hostess to be sure of the number of guests which she desires. The time of ar-
rival is about ten minutes before the dinner hour, not earlier or later, to enable the hostess
to be fully prepared to meet her guests make introductions and arrangements for escorts
to the table. If already made, gentlemen will be handed, by a servant, upon entering the
house, cards, upon a tray; he takes the one bearing his name and that of the lady whom
he is to escort to the table. Ladies and gentlemen appear in full dress, wearing gloves,
which are removed when seated at the table, and need not be worn again during the
evening.

The chief waiter announces dinner, by bowing to the host, who offers his arm to the
honored lady, proceeding first, with guests following to the dining-room ; the hostess
enters last with the honored gentleman. Each couple find the places assigned them, as
intimated right or left hand of the table and by the dinner card at their plates. A gen-
tleman offers his left arm to the lady he escorts to dinner ; he places her at table at his
right hand.

Guests, after locating themselves at the table, remain standing until the hostess is
seated ; ladies are seated next, their escort arranging their chairs for them, when they
seat themselves.

Small oysters, or clams, when served, precede soups. Soup is passed to all who take
it or pretend to do so. After soups guests may refuse, or take whatever pleases them,
the menu giving the information as to the various dishes.

Custom designates what wines shall be served with each course. No gentleman or
lady, however severe in their ideas of temperance, will manifest their convictions while
accepting private hospitality. The wine is poured sparingly into the different glasses, and
glasses are lifted as toasts are drunk. Accepting hospitality allows no liberty of criticisms
of the conduct of the host. The hostess cleverly arranges the seats of the gifted con-
versers, so they will occupy, as near as possible, the centre of the table, between the host
and hostess, to enable all of the invited to be entertained.

Dinner concluded, the hostess bows to the lady at the right of the host, rises, and all
the party follows her to the drawing-room. If a theatre or opera party follows dinner, the
coffee is served at the dinner-table ; otherwise it is served in the drawing-room, half an
hour after dinner ; the hostess sits by the coffee urn, and the gentlemen carry the cups to
the ladies, a servant follows with a tray, upon which is cream and sugar.

After coffee, guests may at any time take their leave, all going within two hours. If,
after coffee, parties desire to leave at once, it is correct to so announce, unobserved, to
the hostess before dinner, leaving quietly, unnoticed, without formal adieus, to avoid dis-
turbing the pleasure of those remaining. A New York hostess understands this polite
withdrawal, which is one of the pleasant customs of Parisian etiquette.

Etiquette requires that a call be made by each guest upon the hostess, within a week,
on her receiving day, if she has one, to return thanks for the pleasure enjoyed.

If by card left in person, one card for each adult member of the family, with right
hand upper corner turned down.

DINNER GIVING.

" Evening dress is the same, what-
ever the nature of the evening's enter-
tainment, only the gloves are dispensed
with at dinner."

Gentlemen wear black dress suits,
the coat being "swallow-tail," the
waistcoat cut low, the cravat white,
thin patent leather shoes, and kid
gloves of the palest hue, if not
white as prescribed. The shirt front
should be plain ; the studs and sleeve-
links simple. It need not be added
that special attention should be given
to the hair, which, according to the
present mode, is neither very short
nor very long.

" In the evening, though you spend
it alone with your family, wear a black
dress suit ; and if you have sons bring
them up to do the same."

The theory is, that a gentleman
dresses for dinner, and is then pre-
pared alike for calls, opera, or ball.
Sunday evening, morning dress is
worn. No one goes to church in
evening dress, and no one is expected
to appear in it at home or away from
home on that day. In some circles
evening dress is considered an affecta-
tion, and it is well in provincial towns
to do as others do. When invited to
an early dinner or a luncheon, either
in the city or in country, or at a water-
ing-place, the suitable dress for gentle-
men is a black frock-coat, colored
trousers, white or black waistcoat,
and a colored scarf.

HOME DISSERTATIONS.

TABLE RULES FOR LITTLE ONES.

In silence I must take my seat,
And give God thanks before I eat;
Must for my food in patience wait,
Till I am asked to hold my plate.
I must not scold, nor whine, nor pout,
Nor move my chair nor plate about;
With knife, or fork, or napkin ring,
I must not play, nor must I sing;
I must not speak a useless word,
For children should be seen, not heard;
I must not talk about my food,
Nor fret if I don't think it good;
I must not say, " The bread is old,"
" The tea is hot," " The coffee cold."

I must not cry for this or that,
Nor murmur if my meat is fat.
My mouth with food I must not crowd,
Nor while I'm eating speak aloud;
Must turn my head to cough or sneeae,
And when I ask say, " If you please; "
The table-cloth I must not spoil,
Nor with my food my fingers soil;
Must keep my seat when I have done;
Nor round the table sport or run;
When told to rise, then I must put
My chair away with noiseless foot,
And lift my heart to God above,
In praise of all his wondrous love.

FRENCH NAMES OF DISHES USED IN MENUS.

Oysters, raw .' Huitres,crussurdemicoquilles.

" Shrewsbury " de Shrewsbury.

" Rockaway " de Rockaway.

" East River " d'EastRiver.

" Blue Points " de Blue Points.

" Cherrystone " de Cherry Stone.

Saddle Rock " de Saddle Rock.

" stewed " cults si I'etuves.

" Boston style... " " alaBostonnienne.

" fried " frits.

" broiled " grilles.

" roasted " rotis.

" on the spit " a la brochette.

" escaloped " en coquilles.

" fricasseed " fricassees.

" iila Bechamel " a la Bechamel.

Salmon Saumon.

" Trout Truite saumonee.

Brook Trout " d'eaux vives.

Mackerel, Spanish Maquereau, Espagnol.

" Fresh " frais.

Shad Alose.

Striped Bass Bass, rayee.

Sea Bass " de mer.

Black Bass " noir.

Sheep's head Sheep's Head.

Blue Fish Poisson bleu.

White Fish " blanc.

Weak Fish Truite de mer.

Codfish Morue.

Halibut Plie.

Kingfish Poisson roi.

Perch Perche.

Pickerel Brochet.

Smelts Eperlans.

Eels, fried Anguilles, frites.

" alaMatelotc " ala matelote.

stewed, plain " a 1'etuvee, simple.

Flounder Limande-carrelet.

Filet de Sole, fried Filet de sole, frit.

" Tomato Sauce.. " " ;t la sauce tomato.

" Tartar Sauce... " " Tartare.

" au gratin " an gratin.

Smoked Salmon Saumon fume.

' ' Haddock Merluche-EgleSn fume.

" Herring, English Hareng, a, 1'Anglaise.

Salt Mackerel Maquereau, sale.

" Codfish, with bacon Morue au lard fume.

" hashed with cream. .Hachis de morue, a, la creme.
" " " with poached " " aux ceufs

eggs. poches.

" " Ball " " en croquette.

Consomme Soup, plain Potage consomme 1 , naturel.

" with poached ' " aux ceufs poches.

eggs.

Terrapin " " a la terrapin on tortue

d'eaux vives.

Green Turtle " " a la tcrtue verte.

Mock Turtle " " fausse tortue.

Macaroni " " aux macaroni.

Vermicelli " " aux vermicelli.

Rice " "auxriz.

Julienne " " Julienne.

Colbert " "a la Colbert.

Printaniere " " a la Printaniere.

Tomato " "alatomate.

Pea " " aux pois.

Chicken " " alavolaille.

Oyster " " aux huitres.

Clam " " aux moules.

Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Bouilli de gigot de mouton,

sauce sauce aux capres.

" Corned Beef " de boeuf sale.

" " " with Cabbage. " " aux choux.

" " with Spinach. " " aux epinards.

" " Pork with Sprouts.. " de pore sale, aux sprouts

ou bourgeons.

" Jole, with Spinach " joues de pore, au opi-

nards.

" Chicken, with Egg sauce.. " poulet, si la sauce ceuf.
" " with Oyster sauce " " a la sauce aux

huitres.

" Turkey, with Cream sauce " dinde a la sauce creme.
" " with Celery sauce. " " a la sauce celeri.

" Beef a la Mode Bceuf a la mode.

" " braised " braise.

" Ham, Champagne sauce.. -Jambon,alasauce champagne.

Roast Chicken Rots de poulet.

" Duck " canard.

" Turkey '' dinde.

" Lamb, Spring " d'agneau.

" Mutton " mouton.

" Beef " bceuf.

" Veal " veau.

" Milk Pig " cochon de lait.

Chicken, broiled Poulet, grille.

" a la Tartare.. " " alatartare.

" fried " frit.

' breaded,Tomato sauce. " pane a la sauce toinate.

" Maryland style " ala Maryland.

" Viennastyle " a la Viennoise.

" saute a la Marengo " sautu, a la Marengo.

" a la financiere " a la financiere.

" with Mushrooms. . " aux champignons.

6.3

HOME DISSERTATIONS.

Chicken, saute, with Truffles.. Poulet, aux truffes.

" " with Rice " an riz.

" with currie " au curry.

" Fricasseed, with Olives. " fricassee a hi sauce d'ol-

ives.

" " auvinblanc . " " au vin blanc.

" au chasseur.. " " au chasseur.
" a la Creole " " a la Creole.
Breast of Chicken, au vin Supreme de volaille, au vin

blanc. blanc.

" a la Toulousaine. " a la Toulousainc.

" ala Mont pensie.- " ulaMontpensier.

" with Mushrooms- " auxchampignons.

with Truffles " aux truffes.

Leg of Chicken, with Peas Cuisse de volaille, aux petits

I pois.

" ala jardiniere " a la jardiniere.

" alafinanciere " a la financierc.

Coquille of Chicken, ala creme.C'oquille de volaille, a la creine.
" with Mushrooms. " aux champignons.

" with Truffles " aux truffles.

Tame Duck, saute, with Mush- Canard, saute, aux champig-
rooms. nons.

" " with Olives.. " " aux olives.

" " with String " " aux haricots

Beans. verts.

" withTurnips. " " aux navets.

" " a la Borde- " " a la Bordelaise.

laise.
" " a la finan- " "alafinanciere.

ciere.

" " with Truffles. " " aux truffes.

" en Salmi au Chasseur. Salmis de canard, au chasseur.
" " alaBertrand.. alaBertrand.

" " with Olives " aux olives.

Squab, broiled Pigeon, jeune, grille.

Pheasant, English Faisans a 1'Anglaise.

" White " blanc.

Partridge, broiled Perdreaux, grilles.

" saute, with Madeira... " sautes, au vin de Ma-

dere.

" "with Mushrooms... " " aux champig-
nons.

" "with Truffles " " aux truffes.

" "alafinanciere " " alafinanciere.

" "auxChoux " aux choux.

" Saimi, aux Olives Salmi de Perdreaux, aux

olives.

" " a la Bourguig- " a la Bourguig-

nonne. nonne.

" " au chasseur " au chasseur.

" " a la Perrigord " a la Perrigord.

Grouse, broiled Coq de Bruyeres, grille.

" saute au Madeira " saute au Madere.

" " with Mushrooms. " " aux champig-

nons.

" " alafinanciere " alafinanciere.

" " au chasseur... " au chasseur.

Filet of Grouse Filet de Coq de Bruyeres.

" saute, a la Perrigord. " saute, a hi Perri-

gord.

' " with Mushrooms. " " aux cham-

pignons.

" " au gratin " an gratin.

Quails, broiled or roasted Cailles, grillees au roties.

" sautees,with Mushrooms. " sautees, aux champig-
nons.

" " with Truffles " " aux truffes.

" " withPeas " " aux petits pois.

" " alafinanciere " " a la financicre.

" " alapureedemarron. " " a la puree de mar-

ron.

" braised, Celery sauce " braisees a la sauceceleri.

" " with Onions " " " oignons.

" " ala Toulousaine.. " " a la Toulousaine.

" " alaFlamande " " a la Flamande.

Eggs, boiled (Eufs, a la coque.

" fried " frits.

" " with Ham " " aujambon,

" " " Bacon " " au lard fume.

" Spanish style " " al'Espagnole.

" shirred " sur le plat.

" brown butter " " " au beurre noir.

" scrambled " brouilles.

" withParsley " " aux fines herbes.

" " Tomatoes " " aux tomates.

" " Mushrooms.. " " aux champignons.

" " Truffles " " aux truffes.

" " Ham " " aujambon.

" " Bacon " " au lard fume.

" " Smoked Beef. " " auboeuffume.

" Poached " pochcs.

" " with Tomato Sauce. " " a la sauce aux to-

mates.

" " " Anchovis " " aux anchois.

Omelette, plain Omelette, au natural.

" withParsley " aux fines herbes.

" " Tomatoes " aux tomates.

" " Cheese '' au fromage.

" " Kidney " aux rognons.

" " Ham " aujambon.

" " Bacon " au lard fume.

" " Sausages " aux saucisses.

" " Chicken Livers... " aux foies de poulet.

" " Mushrooms " aux champignons.

" " Truffles " aux truffes.

" " Green Peas " aux petits pois.

" " Asparagus Points. " auxturionsd'asperges.

" " Oysters '' aux huitres.

" " Clams " aux moules.

" Spanish style " al'Espagnole.

" Sweet " aux confitures.

" withSugar " simple, au sucre.

" " Jelly. " alagelee.

" " Rum " au rhum.

" ala Celestine... " a la Celestine.

FRENCH NAMES OF DISHES USED IN MENUS.

Ham, broiled or fried Jambon, grille ou frit.

" with Eggs " " auxoeufs.

" deviled " " aladiable.

Bacon, broiled Lard fume, grille.

" with Eggs " auxceufs.

Pork, fried, plain Pore, frit, simple.

with Apples " " aux pommes f rites.

Smoked Beef, plain .Boeuf fume, simple.

" with Cream " alacreme.

" scrambled with Eggs. " brouille aux ceufs.

Pig's Feet, plain Pieds de cochon, naturels.

" breaded, Tomato " panee, a la sauce

sauce. Tartare.

" sauce " e la sauce piquante.

piquante.

" sauce " poivrade.

poivrade.

Sausages, Country Saucisses du pays.

" smoked Frankfort. " fume de Frankfort.

Balls, fried " en boules, f rites.

Calf's Liver and Bacon Poie de veau an lard.

" saut6 with Mushrooms. " saute aux cham-

pignons.

" " a 1'Italienne " a 1'Italienne.

" stewed, American style. " a I'Americane.

Sweetbreads, plain Ris de veau, simple.

" breaded, Tomato sauce. " pane, a la sauce

Tomate.
" larded, with Mush- " pique aux champig-

rooms nons.

" " with Truffles " " aux truffes.

" a la financiere " " a la financiere.

" " Toulousaine " " " Toulousaine.

Calf's Head, fried, Tomato Tete de veau, frite, a la

sauce. sauce tomate.

" a la vinaigrette " frite, a la vinaigrette.

" " poulctte " " " poulette.

" a 1'Italienne " " a 1'Italienne.

" en tortue " " en tortue.

" au gratin " " an gratin.

Calf's Brains, with brown Cervelles de veau, au beurre
butter. noir.

" sauce poivrade " " a la sauce

poivrade.

" Tomatoes " " a la sauce

tomate.

" Re'molade " " a la sauce

Remolade.

Calf's Tongues, sauce Langues de veau, a la sauce

piquante. piquante.

" in paper en papillote.

" a la Provenc.ale... " a la Provenc,ale.

Kidney, broiled, plain, on Rognons, grilles en brochette.
the spitt.

" deviled " " aladiable.

" stewed, plain " saute, simple.

" aux Fines Herbes. " " aux fines herbes.
" with Mushrooms. " " champignons.

Lamb Fries, plain Amourettes d'agneau, simple.

breaded, Tomato " paneealasauce

sauce. tomate.

sause piquante... " a la sauce piquant.

Chicken Liver, on the spitt.. -Foiesdepoulet, a la brochette.

" stewed, plain " sautes, simple.

with Mush- " aux champignons,
rooms.

" " Washington " a la Washington,

style.

Tripe, broiled Gras Double, grille.

breaded, fried " pane, frit.

sauce piquante " a la sauce piquante.

" Tomato " a la sauce tomate.

stewed with Onions " saute aux oignons.

" Cream " alacreme.

" alaLyonnaise " a Li Lyonnaise.

Pork Chops, broiled Cotelette de pore, grille.

" a la maitre d'hotel.- " " a la maitre

d'hotel.
" breaded, sauce pi- " " panee, a la

quante. sauce piquante.

" sauce Toma- " " panee, h la

toes. sauce tomate.

" " poivrade. " " a la sauce

poivrade.

' Robert.. " " a la sauce

Robert.

" deviled " " aladiable.

Pork Tenderloin, broiled Filet de Pore, grille.

" with fried apples. " aux pommes f rites.

Veal Chops, plain Cotelette de veau, simple.

breaded, Tomato ' paneealasauce

sauce. > tomate.

aux Fines Herbes.. " aux fines herbes.

" alaMilanaise " a la Milanaise.

with Madeira " au Madere,

" Green Peas... " aux petits pois.

Asparagus " aux pointes

Points. d'asperges.

in paper . " en papillote.

Vienna Schmitzel Schmitzel de Vienne.

Lamb Breast, broiled Poitrine d'agneau, grillee.

" breaded, Tomato " panee, a la sauce

sauce. tomate.

piquante " a la sauce piquante.

sauce

Lamb Chops, broiled Cotelettes d'agneau, grilles.

" " breaded, Tomato " " paneesala

sauce. sauce tomate.

" " with Mushrooms.. " " aux cham-

pignons.

" with Truffles " " aux truffes.

" with Asparagus " " aux pointes

Points. d'asperges.

" " sautee a 1'Ital- " " saut6es a

ienne. 1'Italienne.

HOME DISSERTATIONS.

Lamb Chops, sautee a la Ly- Cot.elettes d'agneau, sautees a

onnaise. la Lyonnaisc.

" " " alaSoubise. " " sautees a la

Soubisc.

" " " a la finan- " " a la fi-

ciere. nancierc.

" " " in paper. " " en papillote.

Mutton Chops, broiled " de mouton, grillees.

" breaded, Tomato " " paneesala

sauce. sauce tomate.

" with Mushrooms. " " aux cham-

pignons.

" with Truffles " " aux truffes.

" with Green Peas. " " aux pctits

T-ois.

Beefsteak, plain Bifstecks, simple.

" withOnions " aux oignons.

" with Mushrooms... " aux champignons.

Sirloin, plain Entre-cotes de bceuf, simple.

" with Mushrooms " aux champignons.

" with Truffles " aux truffes.

" with Olives " aux olives.

" a la Bordelaise " a la Bordelaise.

" a la financiere " a la financiere.

Tenderloin, plain Filet de bceuf, simple.

with Olives " aux olives.

" with Mushrooms. " aux champignons.

" with Truffles " aux truffes.

" with Tomatoes. .. " auxtomates.

" with Marrow " a la sauce moe'lle.

" with Anchovies " aubeurred'anchois.

butter.

" a la Bernaise " a la Bearnaise.

" a la financiere.... " a la financiere.

Filet de Bceuf Chateaubriand. Filet de bceuf Chateaubriand.
Entre cote de Bceuf, double. .Entre-cote de bceuf, double.

Porter-house Steak Porter-house steak.

' extra cut. tranche extra.

Hamburg Beefsteak Bifsteck a la mode de Ilam-

bourg.

Asparagus Asperges.

Cauliflower Chouxfleurs.

Brussels Sprouts Choux de Bruxelles.

Artichokes Artichauts.

Peas Petit pois.

String Beans Haricots verts.

Lima Beans " de Lima.

Green Corn Mai's de Turquie.

Succotash Succotash.

Mushrooms Champignons.

Oyster Plant Salsifis.

Spinach Epinards.

Parsnips Panais.

Turnips Navets.

Cabbage Choux.

Squash Potirons.

Beets... ...Betteraves.

Egg Plant Aubergines.

Onions Oignons.

Tomatoes, stuffed Tomates, farcies.

stewed " saut6es.

" broiled " grillees.

Celery, au jus Celeri, au jus.

Maryland Hominy Hominy du Maryland, mai's

bouilli.

Rice, boiled Riz, bouilli.

" croquette " encroquette.

" alaMilanaise " a la Milanaise.

Macaroni, plain Macaroni, simple.

augratin " au gratin.

a la Milanaise " alaMilanaise.

Potatoes, boiled or roasted... Pommes de terre, bouillies on

roties.

" fried, plain " frites, sinple.

" Julienne " a la Ju-

lienne.

" alaParisienne, " " a la Par-

isienne.

" " Saratoga style. " "a la mode

de Saratoga.

" griddled " grillees.

" sautees, plain " sautees simple-

ment.
" a la Lyon- " a la Lyon-

naise. naise.

" " Dutch style. " a la IIol-

landaise.
" stewed, a la maitre "alamaitre

d'hotel. d'hotel.

" hashed with Cream.. " enhachi,ala creme.

" browned augratin.

mashed '. " en purees.

" browned " " augratin.

" alaDuchesse " " a la Duchess.

" croquette " " en croquettes.

Sweet Potatoes, boiled or " douces, bouillies

roasted. ou roties.

" " fried " " frites.

" " broiled " " grillees.

Bermuda Potatoes " Bermudes.

Lettuce, Salad Salade de laitue.

Chicken " " de volaille.

Lobster " " de homard.

Dandelion" " de pissenlit.

Cresses " " de cresson.

Celery " " de celeri.

Tomato " " de tomate.

Cucumber" " de concombre.

Chicory " " de chicoree.

Italian " " al'Italienne.

Russian " " alaRusse.

Anchovis " " aux anchois.

Herring " " d'hareng.

Potato " " de pommes de terre.

FRENCH NAMES OF DISHES USED IN MENUS.

Camembert Cheese Fromage de Camembert.

Rochefort " " de Roquefort.

Naufchatel " " de Neufchatel.

Brie " " de Brie.

Stilton " " do Stilton.

Swiss " " de Gruyere.

English " " Anglais.

American " " American.

Jelly, with Champagne Gelee au vin de champagne.

" " Rum " au rhum.

" " Port Wine " a 1' Oporto.

" " Sherry Wine " au sherry.

Meringues of Peaches Me'ringues de pe'ches.

Apples " depommes.

Strawberries " de fraises.

Omelette souffle'e Omelette soufflee.

Meringues, a la Creme Meringues a la creme.

panach6es " panache'es.

Charlotte Russe, & la CrSme.. Charlotte Russe, a la creme.
" alaChantilly. " " a la Chantilly.

Cup Custard Creme cuite.

" Soft Lemon Custard " " au citron.

Fruit Pies, in season Tartes de fruits delasaison.

Blanc Mange Blano mange.

Cakes, Pound Gateaux au beurre.

" Sponge " biscuit cumin.

" Fancy " garnis.

" Lady " a la Dame Blanche.

" Lady Fingers " buscuits a la cuiller.

" Dry, assorted... " sees.

Ginger Snaps " snaps au gingembre.

" Bread " " pain de gingem-

bre.

Croquettes Parisian " croquettes a la Paris-

ienne.

Carlsbad Wafers " gauf res a la Carlsbad.

Macarons, in variety " macarons, assortis.

Ice Cream, VanilJa Glaces a la vaniile.

" Strawberry " aux fraises.

Chocolate " au chocolat.

Pistache " aupistache.

" Coffee " caf6.

Mixed " melees.

Neapolitan " Napolitaines.

Fancy Neapolitan- " moule'es.

Meringues, glacees " me'ringues, glace'es.

Charlotte Russe, glac6e " charlotte "

Tutti Frutti " tutti frutti.

Lemon Ice Glaces a 1'eau, au citron.

Orange " " " a 1'orange.

Strawberry Ice " " aux fraises.

Raspberry " " " aux framboises.

Pine Apple " " " al'ananas.

Remain Punch Punchs glacis, a la Romaine.

Siberian " " " a la Sibe'rienne.

Cardinale " " " a la cardinal.

Mixed Fruits Punch " " aux mille fruits.

Strawberries and Cream Fraises a la creme.

Raspberries " " Framboises "

Blackberries and Cream Mures a la creme.

Peaches " " Peches "

Cantelope Melons cantaloups.

Water Melon " d'eau.

Oranges Oranges.

Bananas Bananes.

Assorted Fruits Fruits assortis.

Hot House Grapes Raisins de serre.

Malaga " " de Malaga.

Native " " du pays.

Apples Pommes.

Pears Poires.

Black Hamburg grapes Raisins noirs de Hambourg.

Coffee Caf<.

" with Cream " a la creme.

" French, a Tass " a la Francaise.

Tea, English Breakfast Th6, dejeuner Anglais.

" Black " noir.

" Green " vert.

" Mixed " mele.

" Mandarin " Mandarin.

Chocolate Chocolat.

Broma Broma.

Cocoa Cacao.

Iced Coffee Cafe, glace.

" " Bavarois " Bavarois glace 1 .

" Tea The 1 , glace.

" " Bavarois " Bavarois glace.

Goblet of Cream Un verre de creme.

Milk " de lait.

Rolls, French Petits pains, Frangais.

" Flutes " flutes.

" Albany, " d'Albany.

" Graham " Graham.

" Corn Bread " dema'is.

Muffins, American Muffins, a 1'Americaine.

" English " al'Anglaise.

Berliner Pretzel Pretzel de Berlin.

Vienna Butter Wreaths Butter Wreaths de Vienne.

Paris Brioche Brioches de Paris.

German Coffee Cakes Gateaux au caf6, a 1'Alle-

mande.
Toast, Dry Pain roti, sec.

" Zwieback " Zwieback.

" Buttered " beurre'.

" Dipped " a 1'eau.

" Milk " aulait.

" Cream " alacre'me.

" Anchovis " a 1'anchois.

" Graham Bread " de Graham.

" Boston Brown Bread. -. " brun de Boston.

Bread, plain, American Pain, simple, Ame'ricaia.

" Graham " " de Graham.

" Boston Brown.. " " brun de Boston.

" French, Split " fendu Franc.ais.

" " Jokos " Jokoa "

Cakes, Buckwheat Crepe de sarrasin.

" Wheat " defroment.

" Indian " Indiens.

"WHERE" IS THE MAN THAT CAN LIVE
WITHOUT DINING?"

We may live without poetry, music and art ;
We may live without conscience and live without heart ;
We may live without friends, we may live without books,
But civilized man cannot live without cooks.

We may live without books what is knowledge but grieving ?
We may live without hope what is hope but deceiving ?
We may live without love what is passion but pining ?
But where is the man that can live without dining ?

Owen Meredith (Lord Lyttori).

SOUP.

y^~^vF all soups the most common and susceptible to variations is one in which
1J the stock is prepared of beef. The trouble with the average American-
prepared meat soup is that it is too greasy and thick. German soups are often
thick, but seldom greasy. Everything is liable to be run across in a Scandinavian soup,
from a small sardine to a raisin or a grain of allspice. But the delicious French soups are
always clear."

" The proper method of extracting the juice of meat for soup is exactly the reverse of
that practiced in cooking meat which is intended to be eaten. The meat must be cut into
small pieces, put into cold water and slowly heated till boiling. Indeed, the more slowly
the better, because cold water is a better solvent of the juice than hot water; the heat being
only necessary to cook the juice after it has been extracted, to coagulate the albumen,
which is separated as scum, and to dissolve the gelatine.

A liquor intended as a basis for most soups and sauces should have its due proportion
of gelatine.

This liquor, if intended especially for white soups, is best made of poultry or veal,
which furnishes more gelatine than any other kind of meat; and to supply flavor, in which
veal is deficient, some lean ham or bacon is used, in the proportion of half a pound to six
pounds of veal and two gallons of water.

For other soups, particularly brown soups, beef is the best, having a richer flavor.
Meat of any sort (except pork), bones, trimmings, etc., may, however, be used, and the
liquor in which boiled meat has been cooked may be used instead of water. The scum
should be removed as it rises, and all fat should be skimmed off. In from three to four
hours the juice will be thoroughly extracted, after which the boiling should cease, because
if the fibres of the meat begin to separate they will destroy the transparency of the soup.
The liquor being then strained is, in the language of the kitchen, called stock, and by
the addition of proper seasonings, vegetables and coloring and thickening substances,
may be converted into almost any kind of soup.

GLAZE.

Stock, when reduced by boiling to a rather thick, yellowish-brown fluid, is called glaze.
This forms a strong jelly when cold, and will keep good in that state for a considerable
time. It is useful among other purposes, for making soups and sauces upon short notice.
Portable soup consists simply of a very strong gelatinous glaze dried in the form of tablets
similar to glue.

The more volatile ingredients, such as ketchup, aromatic spices, etc., should not be
added until the soup is ready, because their flavor evaporates, and if added earlier a
larger quantity of them will be required. All other ingredients should have ample time
to incorporate. fi

70 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

VEGETABLES IN SOUP.

When vegetables are intended to appear in slices in the soup, an hour's boiling will
suffice to cook them, but when intended to flavor and thicken they should be grated and
added early.

BROWNING TO COLOR SOUP.

Broum soup is merely a clear beef soup stock colored. To make the browning fry (saute),
till well browned, a small portion of the meat used, along with some onions, before adding
the water. A very good "browning " consists of sugar heated in a stew-pan until black-
ened, but not burnt, and then melted in water. In this process the sugar loses its sweet-
ness, but does not become bitter unless too much heated. A few drops of this browning
suffices. Flour browned in the oven is a very good coloring substance for soups that
require thickening. Other browning .substances are also employed, such as toasted bread,
or dark-colored ketchup.

TO MAKE SOUP CLEAR.

Should clear stock turn out not so transparent as desired, it may be clarified in the
following manner: Whisk the white of eggs with a little cold water in a basin, to which
add gradually some of the soup, still whisking the mixture. Pour this slowly into the boil-
ing soup, stirring it rapidly. Continue stirring till the soup again nearly boils, then
remove from the fire and allow it to stand till the white of egg separates. Lastly strain
the soup through a clean cloth. About one egg is required for each quart of soup.

Vegetables make a stock sour very quickly, so if you wish to keep stock do not use
them. Many advise putting vegetables into the stock-pot with the meat and water, and
cooking from the beginning. When this is done they absorb the fine flavor of the meat
and give the soup a rank taste. They should cook not more than an hour the last hour
in the stock. Potatoes if boiled in the soup, are thought by some to render it unwhole-
some, from the opinion that the water in which potatoes have been cooked is almost a
poison. As potatoes are a part of every dinner, it is very easy to take a few out of the
pot in which they have been boiled by themselves, and cut them up and add them to the
soup just before it goes to the table. The soup should be seasoned but very slightly with
salt and pepper. If too much it may spoil it for the taste of most of those who are to eat
it; but if too little, it is easy to add more.

A soup stock must be cooled quickly or it will not keep well. In winter any kind of
stock ought to keep a week. That boiled down to a jelly will keep the longest. In the
warm months three days will be the average time stock will keep.

STOCK FOR CLEAR SOUP.

During cold weather the stock for beef soup can be kept on hand. At any season it
should always be prepared the day before using. The shin is a good piece for this pur-
pose, or the lower part of the round. Have the bones well cracked and extract the mar-
row, which should be put in the soup. To each pound of lean beef allow one quart of

SOUP. 71

water. Put five pounds of beef into five quarts of cold water into a close kettle and set
it where it will heat gradually. Let it boil very slowly for six or seven hours. Look at it
once in a while to see if the water is sinking too rapidly. Should this be the case, replen-
ish it with boiling water, taking care, however, not to add too much of it. When it has
boiled seven hours, remove the meat, which can be used for salad with potatoes and
onions. Strain, and set away to cool. In the morning skim off all the fat and turn the
soup into the kettle, being careful not to let the sediment pass in. Into the soup put an
onion, one stalk of celery, two leaves of sage, two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two of
summer savory, two bay leaves, twelve pepper-corns, and six whole cloves. Boil gently
from ten to twenty minutes, salt and pepper to taste. Strain through a fine sieve. This
is now ready for serving as a simple clear soup, or for the foundation of all kinds of clear
soup. Put in such vegetables as are desired. If these are cut fine it is "Julian " soup.
If young cabbage, quartered and boiled, and young carrots and turnips are put in whole
and dished up with the soup, with the addition of toasted crusts, it is the French family
soup, according to the taste. The vegetables are better when cooked by themselves and
added with their juices to the soup. The seasoning, too, is a matter of taste. Vermicelli
or macaroni which has been boiled tender can be added if desired.

There is no more absurd notion in regard to soup-making than the idea that all sorts
of scraps can be thrown into a pot and made into a good soup. A skillful cook can
create a good soup from chicken or turkey bones, but for meat soup only fresh and un-
cooked meat must be used.

Vegetable Soups may be almost infinitely varied, by employing more or less of each
vegetable, or omitting some altogether, so as to have the flavor of one kind predominate.

There is hardly an edible vegetable or herb which may not be introduced.

The vegetable which predominates usually gives its name to the soup; thus we have
tomato soup, turnip soup, cabbage soup, etc. The French cooks name some of them after
the seasons or months in which their vegetable ingredients are perfection; as for instance,
printaniere soup, julienne soup (spring soup, July soup), etc.

Puree of Vegetable Soup is made of any vegetable preferred. The vegetables are cut
very small, and sauted along with some lean ham or bacon. A spoonful of flour is then
added, and afterward the required quantity of stock, with a bunch of parsley and one or
two potatoes; also some boiling milk if desired. When this boils it is seasoned with salt,
pepper and sugar, and then rubbed through a sieve; the ham and parsley being removed.
It now requires to be re-boiled and skimmed. Serve hot with toasted bread, cut in dice,
in it.

Vermicelli, Italian paste, macaroni, sago, semolina, rice, and tapioca soups have no vegeta-
bles, but consist simply of well-seasoned clear stock, with the above substances boiled in it
till softened, but not so dissolved as to thicken the soup. About two ounces of either of
the first four is enough for a quart of stock; rather less of the others will be sufficient,
because they swell. The rice should be washed and drained and put into cold stock, and
then simmer; all the others should be put into boiling stock. Macaroni is better for being

72 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

previously boiled for ten minutes in water and then drained. Instead of stock, brown
soup may be used for these.

Brown soup is merely a clear beef stock colored, if required, by one of the "brownings."
It is seasoned with pepper, salt and cayenne, and a little mushroom ketchup if desired.
Toasted bread in small dice may be put into it before serving.

ASPARAGUS SOUP.

Cut off the green portions of asparagus, as far as tender, sufficient to fill a quart meas-
ure. Boil them in water with a little salt until quite tender, then drain and add them to
two quarts of good beef broth, and serve very hot. Small squares of toasted bread may
be served in the tureen with the soup if desirable.

BEAN SOUP.

The most common of vegetable soups is bean soup. Any kind will do, although the
best are the French beans. Soak a quart of them over night in lukewarm water. Put them
over the fire next morning with one gallon of cold water. Boil for three or four hours.
Add celery, onions if desired, and one or two thinly sliced potatoes. Simmer until the
vegetables are done. Caraway or dill seed is a good addition to the seasoning of bean soup.

BEEF AND OKRA SOUP.

Cut from the bone two pounds of soup beef, crack the bone to release the marrow, and
put both meat and bone over the fire in a large saucepan with eight quarts of cold water,
a level tablespoon of salt, a small dried red pepper finely chopped or grated, and the fol-
lowing named vegetables : six fresh tomatoes and one medium sized onion peeled and
sliced ; one large green pepper finely chopped, four dozen okras washed and sliced, the
stems being rejected, and one cup of shelled Lima beans ; in the winter all these vegeta-
bles can be bought in cans ; cover the saucepan closely, and gently simmer all these in-
gredients together for four hours, taking care that they do not burn. While the soup is
being cooked boil two large hard-shell crabs, and remove the meat from the shells, or, if
live crabs are not available, use the canned crab-meat. After the soup has been boiled
for four hours remove the beef bones, leaving all the meat and marrow in the soup, add
the prepared crab-meat, and if the soup is too thick to be palatable, a little boiling water;
see that it is nicely seasoned, and then serve it hot.

BOUILLON SERVED IN CUPS. \

Bouillon is made the same as the clear stock, using a pint of water to a pound of meat,
chicken or other poultry, and seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve in large cups with

handles.

CONSOMME.

Eight pounds of a shin of veal, eight pounds of the lower part of the round of beer,
half a cup of butter, twelve quarts of water, half a small carrot, two large onions, hair a
head of celery, thirty pepper-corns, six whole cloves, a small piece each of mace and cm-

SOUP. 73

namon, four sprigs of parsley, sweet marjoram, summer savory and thyme, four leaves of
sage, four bay leaves, about two ounces of ham. Put half of the butter in the soup-pot
and then put in the meat, which has been cut into very small pieces. Stir over a hot fire
until the meat begins to brown ; then add one quart of the water, and cook until there is
a glaze on the bottom of the kettle (this will be in about an hour). Add the remainder of
the water and let it come to a boil. Skim carefully and set back where it will simmer for
six hours. Fry the vegetables, which have been cut very small, in the remaining butter
for half an hour, being careful not to burn them. When done, turn into the soup-pot, and
at the same time add the herbs and spice. Cook one hour longer, salt to taste, and strain.
Set it in a very cold place till morning, when skim off all the fat. Turn the soup into the,
pot, being careful not to turn in the sediment, and set on the fire. Beat the whites and
shells of two eggs with one cup of cold water. Stir into the soup, and when it comes to a
boil, set back where it will simmer twenty minutes. Strain through a fine sieve, put away
in a cold place. This will keep a week in winter, but not more than four days in summer.
It is a particularly fine-flavored soup, and is the foundation for any clear soup, the soup
taking the name of the solid used with it as Consomme, au Riz, consomme with macaroni, etc.

CREOLE SOUP.

Garlic is characteristic of Creole dishes, but onions will do. Use a medium sized one,
peeled and sliced, or a clove of garlic for a quart of soup, and a can of tomatoes peeled
and sliced. Put these over the fire and let them begin to cook while you cut up in slices
a small carrot and a small turnip. Make a bouquet of herbs by tying together two table-
spoons of parsley with the stems and roots on, a stalk of celery, half a dozen cloves, about
the same number of unground pepper-corns and a bay leaf. Add this to the soup and
season it with a little salt. The reason for using cloves and unground pepper was to se-
cure their flavor and prevent the clouding of soup or sauce. When ground pepper is used,
select ceyenne or the white. Use the liquid from the tomatoes for the soup, this being
sufficient.

After all the ingredients have been placed in the soup, it is to be allowed to cook very
slowly until all the vegetables are tender enough to rub through a flour-sieve with a potato
masher. If not thin enough, put in hot water or broth. Thin it to the consistency of
cream. If it is not palatable, season with salt and pepper. Put in about two heaping
tablespoons of boiled rice for a quart of soup, half a cup before cooking will answer for
four quarts. If the soup is too thin that depends upon the condition of the tomatoes
it can be thickened with a very little white sauce made like the white soup, but with water
instead of milk, because the acid in the tomatoes will curdle the milk unless there is added
for each quart of soup a saltspoon of baking soda.

CHICKEN CONSOMME.

Clean, draw and truss a pair of old fowls, and roast them until they are slightly
browned, or about half cooked. Put them into a soup-pot and cover with cold water.
Season with salt, pepper, a blade or two of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, a sprig or two

74 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

of parsley, and a bay leaf. Set the pot on the fire and boil slowly until the fowls are
well done and the broth is reduced one-third. Then strain the broth through a fine sieve
and serve it with toasted bread. It is a delicacy served without the bread in cups.

CHICKEN SOUP.

Carefully pluck and singe a chicken weighing about three pounds, draw it without
breaking the intestines, and cut it in small pieces about two inches square ; put the chicken
over the fire in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water, and let the water gradually heat
to the boiling point ; meantime peel and slice a pint of tomatoes, and enough carrots to
measure an equal quantity ; shell enough Lima beans to fill a cup ; put the vegetables
with the chicken when the water boils ; season the soup with salt and cayenne pepper ;
cover the saucepan closely and simmer the soup gently for three hours ; at the end of
three hours mix two heaping tablespoons of flour smoothly with half a cup of water, and
add it to the soup ; add also a pint of milk ; see that the soup is palatably seasoned ; con-
tinue the boiling another hour, taking care that the soup does not burn, and then serve
it hot.

CLEREMONT SOUP.

Cut a dozen white or silver onions, and fry them in butter until well browned. Drain
them. Take two quarts of rich veal or chicken broth, season with salt and pepper, place
it on the fire, and make it very hot. Add the fried onions and two tablespoons of grated
Parmesan cheese. Serve with fried bread cut in small pieces.

CONSOMME WITH POACHED EGGS.

Put into a small pan a pint of water, a teaspoon of salt, and a tablespoon of vinegar.
When boiling hot, break in a saucer two eggs at a time and slip them into the pan. Sim-
mer till firm, and with a perforated skimmer remove and lay them in a pan of cold water.
Having poached the eggs as many as required put them into a tureen and pour over
them some good boiling hot broth; chicken or veal is the best. A minute or two before
serving add a pinch or two of coarse black pepper.

CREAM OF CELERY.

A pint of milk, a tablespoon of flour, one of butter, a head of celery, a large slice of
onion and small piece of mace. Boil celery in a pint of water from thirty to forty-five
minutes; boil mace, onion and milk together. Mix flour with two tablespoons of milk.
Cook ten minutes. Mash celery in the water in which it has been cooked, and stir into
the boiling milk. Add butter, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Strain and
serve immediately. The flavor is improved by adding a cup of whipped cream when the
soup is in the tureen.

CREAM OF SORREL.

Sorrel is a pest to many a farmer, and almost takes possession of his freshly broken
fields. However, sorrel makes a fine soup, albeit, like the pumpkin, it is essentially French.
The cultivated sorrel can be used. To two quarts of sorrel add a good handful of spinach

SOUP. 75

and a few leaves of lettuce. Put them into a frying-pan with a large piece of butter and
cook until thoroughly done. Then put them into a kettle with a gallon of boiling water.
Just before serving add two beaten eggs with a little cream. Have squares of toasted
bread in the soup tureen. This soup is highly esteemed for invalids.

"CREAM OF SPINACH" SOUP.

The spinach must be very carefully washed, so as to get rid of the sand. Then re-
move the leaves from the stalks. Put them into boiling water and salt. Use enough
water to well cover the spinach. Boil until it is tender, three minutes in the spring and
tenor twelve when the spinach is very tough. The moment the leaves are tender enough
to be rubbed away between the fingers they are done, and boiling thereafter makes them
shrink. Half a peck of spinach, if in really good condition, the leaves green, fresh,
and large, will yield about two quarts of leaves ; if poor, sometimes not more than a
quart. A quart of leaves, when done, will be reduced to about a cupful, which will serve
for four quarts of soup.

For a quart, mix in a saucepan over the fire a tablespoon of butter and one of flour,
stirring the flour in as the butter melts. This makes a perfectly smooth paste. Then add
milk a teacup at a time until a quart is in the pan, stirring the mixture while pouring in
the milk, which may be hot or cold. Hot milk is preferable, it saves time. If the
soup has lumps in it the butter had not been melted. When all the milk has been added,
the soup should be seasoned with a teaspoon of salt, a quarter of a saltspoon of pepper,
and the same quantity of nutmeg. In making sauces or gravies, if the butter is melted
there will never be any lumps in them. Soup could be kept hot by setting the kettle in
another containing hot water. It will thicken a little if allowed to stand. Should it be-
come too thick, a little milk or whatever is used in making the soup it will thin it. Spinach
soup can be made of milk, or of milk and water in equal parts, or of meat broth.

ENGLISH PEA SOUP.

Put a marrow bone and one pint of split peas into the soup-pot, cover these with three
quarts of water, simmer slowly for three hours. Season with pepper and salt to taste.
Strain the soup through a hair sieve, and mash and press the peas through and return
them to the soup ; stir well together. Cover the bottom of the tureen with cube-shaped
pieces of buttered toast, and pour the soup hot over them and serve.

GIBLET SOUP.

Giblets of any kind of poultry, consisting of the head, neck, pinions, feet, liver, giz-
zard, and heart. For goose giblet soup two sets of goose giblets maybe used. The pin-
ions and the neck-skin should be scalded and picked free from feathers, the feet scalded
and skinned, the beak removed and the skull split. After this they must be well cleaned,
cut into small pieces, slightly sauted in butter, and then simmered till tender in some good
beef stock or brown soup, with some carrot, turnip, onions, parsley, thyme, and a bay leaf.
Season highly with mushroom ketchup, salt and cayenne, and thicken with butter rolled

76 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

in flour. When the giblets are tender, the soup may be strained, then re-warm it and serve
with the giblets, and, if desired, some vegetables in it.

TO MAKE GUMBO.

For a large family, take two dozen green okras, cut into thin slices, put into a pot with
three quarts of cold water, and start it to boiling. Now take two tender chickens, cut
them up, and with a rolling-pin or mallet, macerate the flesh and bones until almost a
jelly. Add this to the pot of okra. Scald and peel a quart of full ripe tomatoes, and
finely grate four ears of tender green sweet corn, which add to the mass. Stir frequently,
to prevent burning. Season with fresh butter, pepper and salt ; and when nearly done,
add a stalk of finely chopped celery, with a few sprigs of parsley, and one onion. Con-
stantly stirring ; and when the mass becomes ropy, and emits a grateful aromatic odor,
serve up. If you would Frenchify the dish, just before it is taken up, add a gill of
pure wine.

LENTEN SOUP.

Any good domestic red wine, such as currant, cherry or raspberry wine, may be used
for this soup, the quantity of sugar being graduated by the acidity of the wine ; the pro-
portion of sugar here given will serve for any wine as acid as claret ; domestic or Califor-
nia claret makes a very fair Lenten soup at a reasonable cost, the New York price being
thirty-five cents for a large bottle which will make four quarts of soup. Wash quarter of
a pound of small sago in cold water, put it over the fire in three quarts of cold water, with
a level teaspoon of salt, as much cayenne as can be lifted on the point of a small knife-
blade, and a saltspoon of grated nutmeg ; stir the sago frequently enough to prevent
burning, and cook it slowly until the little globules are entirely transparent, adding more
water if it is required ; when the sago is transparent add quarter of a pound of sugar, and
enough boiling water to make three quarts of soup ; then put in a quart of claret, or any
good domestic red wine, and stir the soup until the sugar is dissolved ; when the soup is
quite hot after the addition of the wine, serve it ; or ice it, and serve it cold.

LOBSTER SOUP WITH MILK.

Meat of a small lobster, chopped fine ; three crackers rolled fine ; butter, size of an
egg ; salt and pepper to taste and a speck of cayenne. Mix all in the same pan, and
add, gradually, a pint of boiling milk, stirring all the while. Boil up once and serve.

GREEN TURTLE SOUP. HOW TO KILL A TURTLE.

The day before the soup is to be made hang the turtle up by the hind fins, head down-
wards, and cut off the head. Use a sharp knife, in order to perform the operation quickly
Let him hang till the next day, that he may be well bled. Then separate the upper from
the lower shell, and be careful in this operation not to cut the gall bladder, which if punc-
tured, would completely destroy the flesh over which it ran. Take out the meat of the
breast and cut it into half a dozen pieces. Remove the gall and entrails and throw them
away. Separate the fins as near the shell as possible, take out the green fat and put it in

SOUP. TT

a dish by itself. Break the shell into pieces and put them into a soup-pot, cover with
water, and boil sufficiently long to enable you to remove the mucilage or gelatinous sub-
stance adhereing to the shells. Put this also on a separate dish. Then into the largest
stew-pan you have put the head, fins, liver, lights, heart and all the flesh, a pound of ham,
a dozen cloves, two or three bay leaves, a large bunch of sweet herbs, such as savory, mar-
joram, basil, thyme, a bunch of parsley and an onion cut in slices. Cover all these with
the liquor in which you boiled the shells, place the pan on the fire and simmer till the
meat be thoroughly cooked. Then strain off the liquor through a fine sieve, and return it
to the stew-pan and set aside. Cut the meat into suitable morsels. Put the herbs, onions,
etc., into a separate saucepan with a quarter-pound of butter, two or three lumps of sugar
and a bottle of Madeira. Let this simmer very slowly. While this is doing, melt half
a pound of butter in another saucepan and thicken with flour, then add a pint of the
liquor from the shells. Let this boil gently for a minute or two. When both of these sauce-
pans are ready, strain the contents of the first, containing the herbs and wine, through a
sieve, and this done, add both to the large stew-pan, containing the broth, then add the
meat, the green fat and mucilage. Add the yoke of a dozen hard boiled eggs, the juice
of two or three lemons and a dessert spoon of cayenne. Make all very hot and serve.
If you have more than you require, pour the balance into stoneware crocks, and when cold
cover and put in a cool place. It will keep a good while, and improve in flavor as the in-
gredients have a chance to more thoroughly amalgamate and blend. When wanted for
use, take especial care to make very hot, but without allowing it to boil, as that would spoil
its true flavor. In the re-v:arming more wine may be added if desired. This soup is de-
licious without the wine. The lemons should have a very thin rind ; should be put into
the tureen and the soup poured over it. Cooking the lemon in this or any other soup
often gives it a bitter taste.

MUTTON BROTH.

Take the fat from the liquor in which the leg of mutton has boiled. Add pepper, and
a little salt, bearing in mind that mutton will not bear as much salt as beef or veal ; half a
cup of raw rice, and half an onion. Boil all together half an hour. This is a delicious
broth, and very easily digested.

MUTTON SOUP.

An excellent mutton soup : Take a leg of mutton, trim off all the fat you can get at ;
put it, whole, in a kettle, cover it well with cold water, and set over the fire. When it
boils, add salt enough to taste well ; half a cup of pearl barley ; let it boil four hours, keep-
ing it covered with water all the time. About an hour before dinner-time, add two medium-
sized onions, a sprig of sage, about eight or ten leaves. Some add celery, but it does not
improve it for us. If you dislike the flavor the onions and sage give the meat, remove tne
meat before putting them in. The cold meat, if made into a salad, the same as chicxeu
salarf. is very good, the only soup-meat there is any taste left in that I know of.

*S HOME DISSERTATIONS.

MOCK TURTLE SOUP.

S. R. AUSTIN, CHIEF COOK.

The Stock. Make from bones of any description, beef preferable. Eight gallons
water, ten pounds meat bones, six carrots, onions and turnips, four blades of mace,
one ounce cloves, one ounce of allspice, four laurel leaves, one-fourth ounce whole pep-
pers, allspice whole, about two pounds block bones.

To color stock and assist to flavor, take four pounds small scraps of meat or bones,
eight leaves of sage and summer savory, with one pound butter. Put this in the oven
and let brown slowly, with five carrots, five turnips, five onions, cut fine; when brown,
put in the same two pounds of flour, stir up, and let all brown together; after brown,
scrape it into the stock that is boiling on the fire, with the addition of a large spoon of
salt and a teaspoon of pepper, and carimel enough to color a nice brown. Let all boil
from ten to fifteen hours on a slow fire, until morning, then strain off ; use a very fine
sieve ; let cool ; skim off all grease, then put on the fire and let boil slow ; season with
pepper and salt to taste, and thicken to the consistency of heavy cream.

The Fillings. Take one calf's head and feet ; skin it, wash clean, and boil the skin.
Use the bones of the head in the above stock. Cook soft the day before wanting ;
when wanted, cut up in dice-sized pieces and put in the above stock one hour before the
soup is used.

Take two pounds lean veal, cut small and fry brown ; then put it in the soup.

The Balls. Take two dozen eggs, boil hard. Separate the whites from the yoik ;
mash the yolk up, and all the yolk of three raw eggs with flour to make a stiff paste ;
take three-fourths of this and make balls about the size of marbles ; the other one-fourth
mix with a pound of chopped veal, fine, and make into large-sized balls. Boil all in water
about fifteen minutes; strain off, and put the balls into the soup. Cut the whites in thin
pieces and put them in also. The balls can be made the day before cooked, and put in
cold water until wanted to use.

Peel three lemons, slice in thin slices, cut the skin up in small shreds, throw in the
soup fifteen minutes before ready to use, and one pint of port wine. Be sure and have
the soup thick enough, and a nice brown color.

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.

Cut the meat off three pounds of veal into small pieces, and make a strong gelatinous
stock of the trimmings, gristle and bones, along with a knuckle of veal broken in pieces,
and simmered in about three quarts of water. Fry (saute) the pieces of meat in butter,
in a deep stew-pan, along with some sliced onions and a slice of lean ham. When these
are slightly browned, mix in two tablespoons of flour, and pour over them the stock pre-
viously strained. Simmer this gently for an hour, skimming off the fat as it rises. Then
add two or three dessertspoons of curry powder, with salt and cayenne, and continue the
simmering till the veal is thoroughly cooked. Before serving, remove the ham. Carrot
and turnip may be used in this soup, being sliced and sauted along with the meat aiiL

SOUP. 79

onion; apples also are sometimes employed in the same way. The remains of cooked
fowls or rabbits, cut into small pieces, may be warmed up in this soup and served along
with the veal. Chicken or turkey bones, scraps from roast veal, lamb or mutton may be
used instead of the veal.

OX-TAIL SOUP.

Ox-tail soup may be made of two or three ox-tails divided into joints, slightly sauted
in butter, and then simmered in about three quarts of good beef stock, or brown soup,
till the meat becomes quite tender and loose upon the bones. If water is used instead of
stock, another tail may be required, and some of the smaller pieces left unsauted, to yield
their juice. Season it with whole black pepper and salt at the beginning of the prepara-
tion. Vegetables, namely: carrot, turnip, onions or leeks, and celery sliced, and parsley
and thyme, may be boiled in it, especially if it is made without stock, the onions being
sauted with the meat, and it may be thickened with browned flour.

PALESTINE SOUP.

Wash and peel two dozen Jerusalem artichokes. Cover them with cold water as fast
as peeled. Put them in a saucepan and add a sprig of leek, a sprig of parsley and one of
celery ; salt and pepper. Add two quarts of stock or hot water, and simmer an hour and
a half. Strain ; remove all but the artichokes and press them through a sieve, return to
the liquid and put back on the range. When quite hot, beat into it a pint of boiled cream,
add a little nutmeg, taste for seasoning, and serve with croutons.

PUREE OF VEGETABLE SOUP.

Peel some carrots, turnips and onions, cut them into very small pieces and fry them
slightly with some lean ham or bacon ; a spoon of flour mixed smoothly with water is then
added, together with two quarts of stock or broth, also a bunch of parsley and one or two
potatoes cut into pieces, and a gill of milk. When this boils for twenty minutes, season
with salt and pepper and a teaspoon of sugar; after which remove and strain and rub
through a fine sieve, the parsley and ham being removed. Replace it upon the fire, bring
it to the boil, skim it, and serve very hot, with the toasted bread cut into small pieces in it.

POTAGE A LA KEINE.

Boil a large fowl in three quarts of water until tender ; the water should never more
than bubble. Skim off the fat, and add a teacup of rice, and, also, a slice of carrot, one
of turnip, a small piece of celery and an onion, which have been cooked slowly for fifteen
minutes in two large tablespoons of butter. Skim this butter carefully from the vege-
tables, and into the pan in which it is, stir a tablespoon of flour. Cook until smooth, but
not brown. Add this, as well as a small piece of cinnamon and of mace, and four whole
cloves. Cook all together slowly for two hours. Chop and pound the breast of the fowl
very fine. Rub the soup through a fine sieve ; add the pounded breast and again rub the
whole through the sieve. Put back on the fire and add one and a half tablespoons of salt,

So HOME DISSERTATIONS.

a fourth of a teaspoon of pepper and a pint of cream, which has just come to a boil.
Boil up once and serve. This is a delicious soup.

PUMPKIN OR SQUASH SOUP.

Pumpkin or squash soup is almost a national dish in France. Indeed, the first men-
tioned vegetable is scarcely employed there for any other purpose than for soup-making.
To two quarts of thoroughly cooked pumpkin or squash allow one quart of milk, plenty of
butter, pepper and salt. Serve with toasted bread.

SCOTCH BROTH.

Two pounds of the scraggy part of a neck of mutton. Cut the meat from thus bones,
and cut off all the fat. Then cut the meat into small pieces and put into the soup-pot
with one large slice of turnip, two of carrot, one onion and a stalk of celery, all cut fine,
half a cup of barley and three pints of cold water. Simmer gently two hours. On to the
bones put one pint of water ; simmer two hours, and strain upon the soup. Cook a table-
spoon of flour and one of butter together until perfectly smooth ; stir into soup, and add a
teaspoon of chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper.

SPRING SOUP.

Cut your spring vegetables into neat symmetrical shreds ; boil them separately a f^v
minutes and add them to consomme.

STOCK, OR POT-AU-FEU.

Pieces of fresh beef, bones, briskets, skin, tops, trimmings, bits of cooked beef, mutton,
lamb, veal, fowl, unsalted, anything that will make a jelly; also, slices of carrots, beets,
onions, parsley; avoid spices and herbs, and use salt sparingly. Fill a pot half full ; fill
up with cold water. Don't let it boil for the first half hour on any account; after that, let
it simmer gently, four, five, or seven hours; skim well, and stew till it has reached a rich
consistency; then take it off the fire, strain through a coarse napkin, and set away to cool.
When cold, take off all the fat, and it should pour clear from sediment. If desired to be
very rich, add jelly from a cow heel, or a lump of butter rolled in flour.

Never permit the stock-pot to get empty. So soon as one is placed in the larder, com-
mence another. If it accumulates, boil down to a glaze.

MRS. E. B. BURROUGHS' TOMATO SOUP.

Boil for a few minutes three cups of tomatoes, with a small teaspoon of saleratus. Heat
one quart of milk to near boiling, and into this pour the prepared tomatoes. Season with
plenty of fresh butter, a little salt and pepper, and serve with small bits of toasted bread
cut the shape of dice. An iron spoon should not be used in stirring this soup during its
preparation.

TURKEY SOUP WITH OYSTERS.

Use the carcass of a cold turkey, together with all the cold stuffing and gravy on hand;

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SOUP. Si

put them over the fire with two quarts of water, and boil them gently until the meat falls
from the bones; carefully remove all bits of bone from the soup after it has boiled until
they separate readily from the meat; strain the liquor from the oysters and add it to the
soup; wash and cut in small pieces one root of celery with the stalks and white leaves,
saving the green leaves for drying, and put the celery into the soup; after the celery is
tender see that the soup is not too thick, and season it palatably with salt and pepper;
carefully remove all bits of shell from the oysters, put them into the soup, let it boil once
after adding the oysters, and then serve it hot.

If it is desirable to increase the quantity of soup do it by using more water and season-
ing, and thicken it with bread boiled in it to a pulp, or with flour and butter mixed to a
smooth paste and boiled in it.

VEAL SOUP.

Veal soup can be prepared in a similar manner to beef soup. It is unnecessary, how-
ever, to boil the meat the day before it is wanted. Three hours is sufficient length of
time for it to be over the fire. The same proportions of meat and water are used as for
the beef. Be careful to skim it close, and if not clear to strain it through a colander. If
macaroni i? used, put a little butter in with it before adding to the soup.

VEAL CREAM SOUP.

Boil the remnants of a roast of veal until the meat falls from the bones. Strain and
cool. The next day put on to boil, with a slice of onion and one-third of a cup of raw
rice. Let it simmer slowly for an hour. Add salt and pepper to taste. Just before
serving add one cup of rich milk, or cream if you have it, heated first in a separate dish.
Serve with grated Parmesan cheese.

WINTER PEA SOUP.

Wash two or three pounds of split peas, rejecting those which float, and put them into
a saucepan with four quarts of the liquor in which any kind of meat has been boiled, or
even cold soft water (a very little carbonate of soda will soften hard water), a small bit of
butter or drippings, and any odd scraps of meat and bones well broken. Add some tur-
nip, carrot and onion sliced, a bunch of thyme and two or three heads of celery or a little
celery seed. Boil these slowly till the peas dissolve, stirring them frequently to prevent
burning on the bottom of the saucepan. Then rub the soup through a sieve, season with
pepper and salt, boil again for a few minutes, and then pour into the tureen, in which you
have previously placed some toasted bread cut into dice. Beef or veal, and bacon may
be boiled in it to be eaten, and then it may be made with water only. It is improved by
a day's keeping, the vegetables not being in that case added till it is re-boiled for use, the
longer the peas are boiled, the smoother and mellower the soup.

FRIED BREAD FOR SOUP.

Cut dry bread into dice, and fry in boiling fat until brown. It will take about half a
minute. The fat must be smoking in the centre when the bread is put into it.

FISH.

WITH general directions for Baking, Boiling, Broiling, Frying, and Stewing, one
cannot be at a loss as to how to prepare any kind of fish. Once having mastered
the five primary methods, and learned also how to make sauces, the variety
of dishes within the cook's power is great.

Fish to be prime must be thick and firm, with bright scales and stiff fins; the gills a
very lively red, the eye full and prominent. In the summer they should be cleaned at
once and kept on ice till you are ready to cook them; do not attempt to keep fresh fish
till next day. Mackerel cannot be cooked too soon, as they spoil more readily than any
other fish.

BAKED FISH.

A general rule, that will cover all kinds of baked fish, is herewith given: A fish weigh-
ing about five pounds; three large, or five small crackers, or an equivalent in dry bread-
crumbs, quarter of a pound of salt pork, two tablespoons of salt, quarter of a teaspoon of
pepper, half a tablespoon of chopped parsley, two tablespoons of flour.

If the fish has not already been scraped free of scales, scrape and wash clean; then rub
into it one tablespoon of salt. Roll the crackers or bread-crumbs very fine, and add to
them the parsley, one tablespoon of chopped pork, half the pepper, half a tablespoon of salt,
and cold water to moisten well. Put this into the body of the fish, and fasten together
with a skewer. Butter a tin sheet and put it into a baking pan. Cut gashes across the
fish, about half an inch ' deep and two inches long. Cut the remainder of the pork into
strips, and put these into the gashes. Now put the fish into the baking pan, and dredge
well with flour, salt and pepper. Cover the bottom of the pan with hot water, and put
into a rather hot oven. Bake one hour, basting often with the gravy in the pan, and
dredging each time with flour, salt and pepper. The water in the pan must often be
renewed, as the bottom is simply to be covered with it each time. The fish should be
basted every fifteen minutes. When it is cooked, lift from the pan on to the tin sheet,
and slide it carefully into the centre of the dish on which it is to be served. Pour around
it Hollandaise sauce, tomato sauce, or any kind you like. Garnish with parsley.

BOILED FISH, SAUCE HOLLANDAISE.

Any kind of fish can be used, only it should not be split. Fish-men are possessed
with the insane idea that they must give it a slash down the middle, which, in nine cases
out of ten, makes trouble for the housekeeper, because, if the fish is to be stuffed and
baked, the slash has to be sewed up again; if to be boiled, it is almost impossible to keep
the fish in shape, as it breaks so easily; and if to be fried, it spoils the shape of the slices.
It is just as easy to dress a fish by cutting it at the gills. If fish-men would concentrate
82

FISH. 83

their attention on the fins and remove them it would be better. To boil a fish, use cold
water for a large one and boiling water for a small one, salt being added. A thin fish is
the best for boiling. If you put a large fish into boiling water the outside will be done
before the inside, whereas if you put it into cold water, and heat it gradually, you are sure
to have it thoroughly cooked. A small fish will probably be cooked by the time it is well
heated through. There were many other ways of preparing fish, ways that belonged to
that high art, cooking, which is to come by and by. One is to boil a fish with a
strong stock of bouillon made of cheap wine (claret), which is sometimes imitated by a
combination of vinegar and water. A bouquet of herbs should also be used. Twist the fishf
into a letter "S" by using a string^ and it is better, unless one had a fish-kettle, to tie a cloth
around it so that it can be easily lifted out of the water.

For the Hollandaise sauce use the white sauce seasoned with salt and pepper. After
heating it over a fire, the yolk of three eggs, for a pint, a tablespoon of vinegar or lemon
juice, and three tablespoons of salad oil added. A saltspoon of mustard, dry or mixed,
can be put in, but this depends entirely on one's taste. Fish can be served with the
skin on or off. The latest craze of the Ichthyophagous Club of New York is to serve a
fish with both the skin and scales on. This announcement may be received with surprise,
but the scales and skin do come off together very easily.

The white sauce can be used with macaroni, and a heaping tablespoon of Parmesan
cheese added. When hot the Italians use only enough sauce to moisten the macaroni;
and they sometimes use two or three different kinds of sauce on the same dish. The
cream sauce is made like the white sauce, except that milk is used instead of water. The
macaroni should be dusted with cracker dust, and browned very quickly in the oven.

BOILED FRESH CODFISH.

Lay the fish in cold water, slightly salted, for half an hour before cooking. Wipe it
free from salt water, wrap it in a clean cloth kept for such purposes. The cloth should be
dredged with flour, to prevent sticking. Sew up the sides in such a manner as to protect
the fish entirely, yet have but one thickness of the cloth over any part. The cloth should
be fitted neatly to the shape of the piece to be cooked. Put into the fish-kettle, pour on
plenty of hot water, and boil briskly fifteen minutes for each pound. Prepare a sauce
thus: To one gill boiling water add as much milk, and when it is scalding hot, stir in
leaving the saucepan on the fire two tablespoons of butter rolled thickly in flour; as this
thickens, two beaten eggs. Season with salt and chopped parsley, and when after one
good boil, you withdraw it from the fire. Put the fish into a hot dish and pour over it
white, or oyster sauce. Some serve in a butter-boat, but I fancy that the boiling sauce
applied to the steaming fish imparts a richness it cannot gain later. Garnish with sprigs
of parsley and circles of hard-boiled eggs laid around the dish.

BOILED SALT CODFISH.

Put the fish to soak over night in lukewarm water as early as eight o'clock in the
evening. Change this for more warm water at bed-time and cover closely. Change again

84 HOME DISSERTATIONS^

in the morning and wash off the salt. Two hours before dinner plunge into very cold
water. This makes it firm. Finally, set over the fire with enough lukewarm water to
cover it, and boil for half an hour. Drain well ; lay it on a hot dish, and pour over it
egg sauce prepared as in the foregoing recipe, only substituting the yolks of two .hard-
boiled eggs, rubbed to a paste with butter, for the beaten raw eggs.

This is a useful recipe when fresh cod cannot be obtained. Salt mackerel, prepared in
the same way, will repay the care and time required. Should the cold fish left over be
used for fish-balls as it should be it will be found that the sauce which has soaked into-
it while hot has greatly improved it.

CODFISH BALLS.

One pint pared potatoes, chopped small, one-half pint raw salt fish, torn in small pieces
and put in cold water. Put the potatoes in a kettle, and the fish on top, covered with
boiling water; cook until the potatoes are soft. Drain off the water, mash the fish and po-
tatoes together in the kettle. Add pepper, salt if needed, also one egg well beaten; one
teaspoon butter. Drop tablespoonful into frying-basket and plunge into hot fat. Don't

turn them. N. S. P.

BOSTON FISH-BALLS.

Half a pound of codfish, three ounces suet shred fine, a small lump of butter, a teacup
of bread-crumbs, pepper, salt and nutmeg, and two teaspoons of anchovy sauce. Pound
all together in a mortar, mix with an egg, divide into small cakes, and fry them a light

brown.

FISH ON TOAST.

Take cold boiled fish of any kind, pick it into flakes and heat in enough milk to
moisten it; add a bit of butter, and season with pepper and salt. When it is hot, pour
it on slices of buttered toast, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices.

SCALLOPED COD.

Butter an earthenware pudding dish, and place in it neat flakes of the cold fish with
any of the gelatine which is left; line the bottom of the dish, and then pour over it any of
the sauce or melted butter that you may have. Sprinkle with salt, a very little red pep-
per, and a pinch of mace; place alternate layers of fish and sauce until the dish is full.
Cover the top with fine bread-crumbs, put bits of butter over it, and bake twenty minutes.

OYSTER SAUCE FOR CODFISH.

One quart of oysters (when buying them ask for a little extra liquor), put over the fire,
rub up pieces of butter size of small egg with two even tablespoons flour, stir this in the
oysters till dissolved, pepper and salt to taste, and on no account let it boil but just one
instant the oysters must not be hard. This is enough to serve with cod of eight pounds r
for twelve persons, as first course before meat.

CODS' TONGUES WITH EGG SAUCE.
Wash two pounds of salt cods' tongues in cold water, pour lukewarm water over them,

FISH. 85

and let them remain where the water will retain its heat for two hours or longer; after the
tongues have been soaked put them over the fire in enough cold water to cover them, add
a cup of milk and a small red pepper pod, or a palatable seasoning of cayenne, and cook
them slowly for about half an hour, or until they are tender; meantime boil three eggs
hard, remove the shells and chop the eggs; just before the tongues are done put in a
saucepan over the fire a heaping tablespoon each of butter and flour, and stir them to-
gether until they begin to bubble; then gradually stir in enough of the milk and water in
which the tongues were boiled to make the sauce sufficiently salt, and more milk to bring
it to the consistency of thick cream, put the tongues into the sauce, add the chopped
eggs, and then serve them hot.

FISH CHOWDER.

Peel two quarts of raw tatoes and slice them rather thin; peel and slice two quarts
of onions; skin and clean four large porgies, remove the heads and cut each fish in slices
about three inches thick; soak four sea biscuit for five minutes in cold water; cut one
pound of fat salt pork in thin slices; have ready for seasoning black and red pepper, pow-
dered cloves and a very small bunch of thyme; the thyme is to be taken out of the chow-
der before it is served. First fry one-third of the pork with one-third of the onions; then
take up the fried pork and onions, and put them aside to use presently; wash the kettle
in which the pork and onions were fried, wipe it dry and put in the bottom a layer of raw
salt pork cut in thin slices; on the pork lay some of the fish, and season it with red and
black pepper, salt and a little ground cloves; on the fish pface a layer of potatoes an inch
thick, next a similar layer of the raw onions sliced, then the fried pork and onions and
half the sea biscuit, and season this layer highly with salt, pepper and powdered cloves.
Repeat the layers of fish, potatoes, onions and sea-biscuit until all are used, seasoning
them as directed above; pour cold water into the kettle until it entirely covers these ingre-
dients, cover the kettle closely and boil its contents slowly until the potatoes are thor-
oughly cooked. When the potatoes are done add a quart of claret to the chowder; let it
just reach the boiling point, remove the bunch of thyme, and then serve the chowder in a
tureen.

BROWN STEW OF EELS AND MUSHROOMS.

After two pounds of eels have been dressed and washed in plenty of cold, salted water,
cut them in two-inch lengths, put them over the fire in enough cold water to cover them,
let the water heat to the boiling-point, and then drain the eels and dry them on a clean
cloth; meantime open a can of mushrooms, and put the liquid ready to use in making the
sauce; or, if fresh mushrooms are used, free them from sand and all imperfections, wash
them in plenty of cold, salted water, and cut them rather small ; after the eels are dried,
roll them in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, put them over the fire in a saucepan con-
taining sufficient butter to prevent burning, and brown them evenly; when the eels are
brown add the mushrooms, enough boiling water to cover them, and a palatable seasoning
of salt and pepper; if canned mushrooms are used, add the liquid in which they are pre-

86 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

served ; let the eels and mushrooms cook together for about twenty minutes, or until t>oth
are tender, and then serve them hot. A glass of wine may be added just before serving,
if its flavor is desired.

FRIED EELS.
Prepare as for stewing; roll in flour, and fry, in hot lard or dripping, to a light brown.

BROILED HALIBUT WITH MAITRE D'HOTEL
Butter both sides of the broiler. Season the slices of halibut with salt and pepper,

place them in the broiler and cook over clear coals for twenty minutes, turning frequently.

Place on a hot dish, and spread on them the sauce, using one spoonful to each pound.

Garnish with parsley.

A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Put in a small bowl a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a saltspoon of salt, the same

of pepper, two of chopped parsley, the juice of a small lemon or the same quantity of

white vinegar, and a very little cayenne. Mix all together and keep in a cool place.

This is a good sauce with broiled 'kidneys, or with broiled meats of any kind.

BROILED SALT MACKEREL WITH BUTTER SAUCE.

Soak a salt mackerel overflight, laying it in plenty of cold water, with the skin upper-
most, so that the salt may fall to the bottom of the water after it is disengaged from the
fish. In the morning trim off the tail, fins and point of the head ; dry the mackerel, put
it between the bars of a double-wire gridiron, well buttered to prevent sticking, and brown
the fish over a hot fire; while it is being browned boil some potatoes, as directed in the
following recipe, and make a butter sauce; when the potatoes and sauce are ready, serve
them separately in hot dishes, and serve the fish with some slices of lemon, or a few sprigs
of parsley or water-cresses, on the dish, as a garnish.

BUTTER SAUCE FOR BROILED MACKEREL.

Put in a saucepan over the fire a tablespoon each of butter and flour, and then stir
them until they bubble; then gradually stir in a pint of boiling water, and when the sauce
is smooth season it with a level teaspoon of salt, quarter of a saltspoon of white pepper,
,and a tablespoon of chopped parsley or capers, if either is available; after the sauce has
jboiled for two minutes, add to it three tablespoons of butter cut in small pieces, and stir
the sauce until the butter is melted ; do not allow the sauce to boil after the butter is
added ; when the butter is melted put in the juice of half a lemon, and serve the sauce at
once with the fish.

BROILED TROUT WITH BROWN GRAVY.

After a large trout has been scaled, split it down the back, dress it, wash it in cold
water, dry it with a clean towel, lay it between the bars of a well-buttered double-wire grid-
iron, and broil it over a quick fire; while the fish is being cooked, stir .together over the

FISH. 87

fire a tablespoon each of butter and flour until they begin to brown; then gradually stif
in a pint of boiling water, a tablespoon of any highly seasoned pickle chopped very fine,
a level teaspoon of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoon of pepper; when the sauce boils it is
ready to use; pour a little of it on a hot platter to receive the fish, and serve the rest in a
sauce-bowl ; when the trout is done transfer it without breaking to the platter containing
the sauce, and serve it hot.

BROOK TROUT WITH NEW POTATOES.

Scrape or rub the skin from a quart of small new potatoes of even size, boil them until
tender in salted boiling water, and then drain them and put them into the following sauce
while the trout are being cooked ; to make the sauce, put over the fire a tablespoon each of
butter and flour, and stir them until they are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a
pint of milk, a level teaspoon of salt, and a palatable seasoning of white pepper, and let
the sauce boil before putting the potatoes into it; after the potatoes and sauce are put
over the fire, wash a dozen small trout in cold, salted water, and dry them on a clean towel;
rub a frying-pan with a cut onion, put into it two tablespoons of butter and one each of
chopped parsley and green herb in season; set the pan over the fire, and when the butter
is hot, put the trout, season them with salt and pepper, and shake the pan often enough
to keep the trout from burning; when the trout are done serve them hot with the dish of
stewed new potatoes.

BROILED SHAD.

After a shad has been cleaned and washed in cold water, wipe it with a clean cloth,
put it between the bars of a double-wire gridiron, thickly buttered to prevent sticking, and
place the inside to the fire; as the fish browns moisten it with a little butter seasoned with
salt and pepper and cook it thoroughly on both sides; if the fish contains a roe, lay it in
cold salted water and cook it later, according to the directions given below. Mix together
cold a tablespoon each of finely-chopped parsley and butter, a saltspoon of salt, quarter
of a saltspoon of pepper, and a teaspoon of lemon juice, and use the mixture to spread
over the fish when it is cooked; or butter, salt and pepper can be used to season the shad.
If parsley or lemon is available, either or both may be used as a garnish.

STEAMED FISH.

Secure the tail of the fish in its mouth; lay it on a plate, and pour over it half a pint
of vinegar, season with pepper and salt; let it stand an hour in the refrigerator; then pour
off the vinegar, and put it in a steamer over boiling water; steam twenty minutes, or
longer if the fish is very large; when done, the meat parts easily from the bone; drain
well, and serve on a napkin, garnish with curled parsley; serve drawn butter in a boat.

CURRY OF SHAD ROE.

Boil a pair of roes in slightly salted water; arrange them on a dish, surrounded by a
border of boiled rice; pour over them a curry sauce and serve.

HOME DISSERTATION^
RUSSIAN CAVIARE.

FISH ROE.

Caviare was considered a delicacy, by some in Shakespeare's time, but was not relished by most. Hence,
Hamlet says of a certain play, "'twas caviare to the general; but it was as I icceived it, and otners,
whose judgments in such matters cried in the top of mine an excellent play, well digested in the scenes, set
down with as much modesty as cunning. I remember one said there was no sallets in the lines to make the
matter savory, nor no matter in the phrase that might indict the author of affectation; but called it an honest
method, as wholesome as sweet, and by very much more handsome than fine."

" I dined not long ago at the house of a man famous, and justly so, for giving good dinners, and to my
disgust some superb caviare, the genuine sea-green, unpressed, large-grained caviare was served round at the
end of the dinner as a savory dish on little round bits of toast and made hot. This struck me as actual sav-
a g erv > gi vm g ' lumps of weight ' to the Usbegs and Turcomans. When a mere child I was acquainted with
many of the Polish and Hungarian refugees on whose head a price was set. It was from a some time artillery
officer, a Pole by birth and aide-de-camp to General Bern, that I learned how to deal with sea-green caviare.
The method is to have brown bread well buttered ready and a couple of lemons. When the pot of caviare is
opened it is necessary to judge of its consistency. If of the best quality in the season it will need little if any
addition of the finest lucca or province oil. But if the season is early to add oil to caviare is to ' throw a perfume
on the violet.' When oil or no oil is decided on, then comes the actual preparation which the host had bet-
ter do and perform himself. To a large soup-plate full of caviare add the juice only of two lemons and beat
with a fork. The mass will immediately become pure sea-green with white spots such as we have often seen
in caviare. This famous preparation of sturgeon roe should also be eaten as a hors d'ceuvre or ' whet ' before
dinner and not after it."

SHAD ROE WITH MASHED POTATOES.

After a shad roe has been washed in cold water wipe it dry, put it into a frying-pan
containing two tablespoons of lard, butter or drippings, season it with salt and pepper,
cover the pan to prevent the spattering of the fat while the roe is being cooked, and fry
it for about twenty minutes, turning it several times to insure its complete browning; as
soon as the roe is put over the fire peel and slice a quart of potatoes, put them over the
fire in plenty of salted boiling water, and boil them until they are tender enough to press
through a colander with a potato masher; when the potatoes are soft drain them by pour-
ing them into a colander; when all the water has run off put with them a heaping table-
spoon of butter and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and mash them through the
colander, letting them fall lightly upon a hot platter; lay the shad roe upon the mashed
potato and serve the dish hot. Pickled or fresh cucumbers, or any fresh salad, served
with the dish, is a great addition to it.

PHILADELPHIA PLANKED SHAD.

Boards for planking shad are for sale at most house-furnishing stores in Eastern sea-
coast cities, but when not available in this way they can be made readily. An oaken plank
two inches thick is planed smooth on both sides, and cut about eighteen inches wide by
tiirty long; small staples are driven upon one side, near the four corners, in such a way as
to permit two stout wires, or small iron rods to be crossed over the middle of the board
and have the ends slipped under the staples; sometimes the staples are dispensed with,

FISH. 89

the shad being simply nailed to the board ; the board is placed m front of the fire, near
enough to heat but not to be in danger of burning, and allowed to become very hot; mean-
time the shad is scaled, the fins and tail trimmed off, a cut made down the middle of the
back to admit of the removal of the back bone and entrails, the liver and roe being saved ;
the shad is then rubbed with cold butter and seasoned with salt and pepper; the liver and
roe are placed in a saucepan with half a lemon sliced, two tablespoons each of butter and
flour rubbed to a smooth paste, a dozen whole cloves, hot water enough to cover them,
and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and stewed gently while the shad is being
cooked ; when the shad is done a glass of wine is added to this sauce, the liver and roe
are broken up with a fork, and the sauce is sent in a sauce-bowl to the table with the fish.
When the plank is quite hot the shad is laid upon it, with the skin next the board, and
placed in front of the fire to brown, a prop being put under the upper part of board, and
the lower end being placed in a large pan containing two tablespoons of butter; the board
is turned when the juice begins to run from the fish, so that it may be equally distributed
through it, and it is basted frequently with the butter in the pan; the fish need not be
turned, because the heat of the plank will cook the side next to it; when the shad is
browned it is properly done; the regulation way of served planked shad is to lay the board
on a large platter, remove the wires, and send the fish to the table on the hot board ; but
it can be laid on a hot platter.

STEWED FISH.

Six pounds of any kind of fish, large or small ; three pints of water, quarter of a pound
of pork, or half a cup of butter; two large onions, three tablespoons of flour, salt and
pepper to taste. Cut the heads from the fish, and cut out all the bones. Put the heads
and bones on to boil in the three pints of water. Cook gently half an hour. In the mean-
while cut the pork in slices, and fry brown; cut the onions in slices, and fry in the pork
fat. Stir the dry flour into the onion and fat, and cook three minutes, stirring all the time.
Now pour over this the water in which the heads and bones have been cooked, and sim-
mer ten minutes. Have the fish cut in pieces about three inches square. Season well
with salt and pepper, and place in the stew-pan. Season the sauce with salt and pepper,
and strain on the fish. Cover tight, and simmer twenty minutes. A bouquet of sweet
herbs, simmered with the heads and bones is an improvement. Taste to see if the sauce
is seasoned enough, and dish on a large platter. Garnish with potato balls and parsley.
The potato balls are cut from raw potatoes with a vegetable scoop, and boiled ten minutes
in salt and water in a separate dish. Put them in little heaps around the dish.

SHELL FISH.

TO BOIL LOBSTER.

Have the water boiling hot, slightly salted. Put the lobster in, and from fifteen to
twenty minutes it will turn a bright red, when remove it and set it away to cool.

LOBSTER CUTLETS.

In making them, meat of a lobster weighing two and one-half pounds cut into small
dice and seasoned with salt and pepper, then one heaping tablespoon of flour added to
three tablespoons of butter which has been heated. When the butter and flour are smooth,
a half cup of cream, one well-beaten egg, and salt and pepper mixed with it. When this
boils up once, the lobster is added, the mixture taken from the fire and one tablespoon of
lemon juice added. The mixture is then poured upon a flat dish and set away to cool.
When cold, a tin cutlet mould is buttered and sprinkled with bread-crumbs. The cold
mixture is pressed into the mould and then turned out. This continue until all the cutlet
mixture is used. The mould only buttered once, being well crumbed each time. The
cutlets are now dipped in beaten egg and then in bread-crumbs, and placed in a frying-
basket and plunged into boiling fat for about two minutes. Put part of a small claw in
each one to represent the bone in a cutlet.

LOBSTER CROQUETTES.
Prepare the same as for cutlets, shaped into croquettes.

LOBSTER AND CHICKEN CURRY.

Use any cold cooked chicken, cut in small pieces, and a lobster removed from the
shell, and cut the bits of equal size; peel and slice six white onions, put them in a sauce-
pan with two tablespoons of butter, and stir them occasionally until they begin to brown;
then add the chicken and lobster, a heaping tablespoon of curry powder, enough boiling
water to cover these ingredients, and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper; let the
curry cook gently for half an hour; meantime put a cup of rice over the fire in salted,
boiling water, and boil it steadily for twenty minutes; then drain off all the water, and set
the saucepan in the oven to dry the rice; serve the curry and rice together.

WATER-TURTLES, OR TERRAPINS.

Land-terrapins, it is hardly necessary to say, are uneatable, but the large turtle that
frequents our mill-ponds and rivers can be converted into a relishable article of food.

Plunge the turtle into a pot of boiling water, and let him lie there five minutes. You

can then skin the under part easily, and pull off the horny parts of the feet. Lay him for

ten minutes in cold water, then put him in more water, slightly salted, boil until the shells

begin to separate at the side; then carefully take away the legs and the meat attached to

SHELL FISH. 91

the tail; save the eggs, if the terrapin contains any; if not, make egg-balls according to
them, avoiding the breaking of the gall and rejecting the large intestine which lies near
the directions already given; cut the terrapin meat and the livers in inch pieces, and put
them in a saucepan with a quart of water to a quart of terrapin meat, including the eggs
and liver; add six whole cloves, one grated nutmeg, and half a pound of butter; place
the saucepan over the fire, and stew the terrapin gently for half an hour; meantime brown
a tablespoon of flour in the oven, and add it to the terrapin with a tablespoon of sugar;
add also the juice of a large lemon, cayenne pepper and salt to a palatable point; after it
is cooked a half hour add to the quantity of terrapin mentioned above a half pint each of
port wine and sherry; return the saucepan to the fire just long enough to heat; then serve
the terrapin with a garnish of slices of lemon.

This method of cooking terrapin was as famous as the hospitality of its giver in the
old Washington days of Clay, Webster and Sumner.

SOFT-SHELL CRABS.

Lift the shell at both sides and remove the spongy substance found on the back. Then
pull off the "apron," which will be found on the under side, and to which is attached a
substance like that removed from the back. Now wipe the crabs, and dip them in beaten
egg, then in fine bread or cracker crumbs. Fry in boiling fat from eight to ten minutes,
the time depending upon the size of the crabs. Serve with Tartare sauce. Or, the egg
and bread-crumbs may be omitted. Season with salt and cayenne, and fry as before.

SOFT-SHELL CRABS, BROILED.

After drying and cleaning them well, season them lightly with cayenne pepper and
salt; then drop them into boiling water for one minute, take them up and broil over a clear,
hot fire. Serve very hot, with a la maitre d'hdtel, or sauce Tartare.

DEVILED CRABS.

One dozen fresh hard-shell crabs boiled, pick out the meat from the shells; a quarter
of a pound of fresh butter; one small teaspoon of mustard powder; cayenne pepper and
salt to taste.

Put the meat into a bowl and mix carefully with it an equal quantity of fine bread-
crumbs. Work the butter to a light cream, mix the mustard with it, then stir very care-
fully, a handful at a time, the mixed crabs and crumbs. Wash the crab shells and fill with
the mixture, sprinkle bread-crumbs over the tops, put three small pieces of butter upon
the top qf each, and brown them quickly in a hot oven. They will puff in baking and
will be found delicious. Half the quantity can be made.

OYSTERS.

r f "'HE traditional oyster season ends the last of April. It was formerly against the
law to sell oysters in any months but those having an " R " in their names, but
this statute is long since obsolete, and as good a " broil " or " half shell " may be had
in August nowadays as in January. " In fact/' said a wholesale oysterman, "many kinds
of oysters are in their best condition during the summer months. All along the Connecti-
cut shore of Long Island Sound, where oyster culture has been brought down to a science,
people think oysters are better in summer, and eat more of them than in winter."

It is not as generally understood as it should be that oysters have medicinal qualities
of a high order. They are not only nutritious, but wholesome, especially in cases of indi-
gestion. It is said " there is no ether alimentary substance, not even excepting bread,
that does not produce indigestion under certain circumstances; but oysters, never. Oyster
juice promotes digestion. By taking oysters daily, indigestion, supposed to be almost in-
curable, has been cured ; in fact, they are to be regarded as one of the most healthful ar-
ticles of food known to man. Invalids who have found all other kinds of food disagree
with them, frequently discover in the oyster the required aliment. Raw oysters are highly
recommended for hoarseness. Many of the leading vocalists use them regularly before
concerts and operas; but their*strongest recommendation is the remarkable wholesome in-
fluence exerted upon the digestive organs.

RAW OYSTERS.

It is fashionable to serve these as one of the preliminaries to a dinner party ; some-
times in small plates, sometimes on the half-shell. They are seasoned by each guest ac-
cording to his own taste.

A pretty arrangement for serving raw oysters is to serve them in a block of ice.
Select a ten-pound block, melt with a hot flat-iron a symmetrical-shaped cavity in the top
to hold the oysters ; chip also from the sides, at the base, so that the ice-block may stand
in a large dish on the napkin. When the oysters are well salted and peppered, place them
in the ice, and let them remain in some place where the ice will not melt until the time of
serving. The salt will help to make the oysters very cold. The ice may be decorated
with leaves or smilax vines, and a row of lemon quarters or halves may be placed around
the dish at the base of the ice. It has an especially pretty effect served on the table by
gaslight. Clams may be served in the same manner.

CREAM OYSTERS.

One pint cream, a little more than a pint of oysters, one tablespoon of flour, salt and
pepper to taste; let the cream come to a boil. Mix the flour with a little cold milk and
stir into the boiling cream. Let the oysters come to a boil in their own liquor; then skim
carefully. Drain off all the liquor and turn the oysters into the cream.
92

OYSTERS. 93

OYSTERS COOKED AT TABLE.

Use a chafing-dish, or a metal dish placed over a small alcohol lamp, at the table;
have the oysters carefully freed from all bits of shell ; put into the dish for a pint of
oysters two heaping tablespoons of butter, a dust of cayenne and the oysters; no salt is to
be added unless the butter is very fresh; stir the oysters until their edges begin to curl,
and then put out the lamp and serve them.

FRIED OYSTERS AND ONIONS.

Have ready over the fire a frying-kettle half full of fat, heating, and a large frying-pan
containing two tablespoons of butter and a dust of cayenne ; peel and slice a pint of
white onions, and when the fat is hot drop in a few of the onions at the time, and fry them
like Saratoga potatoes, taking them out of the fat with a skimmer and putting them in a
colander to drain ; meantime carefully remove all bits of shell from a quart of oysters,
and put them into the frying-pan with butter, taking care that the butter is brown ; make
some toast, and lay it on a hot platter ; put the fried onions around the toast ; when the
edges of the oysters curl pour them on the toast, and serve the dish at once.

BATTER FOR CLAMS AND OYSTERS.

One cup milk, one egg, one teaspoon cream of tartar, half teaspoon soda, a little salt,
and flour to make as stiff as for fritters.

OYSTER CROQUETTES.

Scald and chop fine the hard part of oysters after taking the other part and liquor for
a soup ; add an equal weight of mashed potatoes ; to one pound of this add a lump of
butter the size of an egg, a teaspoon of salt, half a teaspoon of pepper, and quarter of a
-teacup of cream. Make in small cakes, dip in egg and then in bread-crumbs, and fry in
plenty of melted lard.

FRIED OYSTERS.

The oysters should be large and the cook not hurried. Drain the oysters in a colan-
der ; sprinkle pepper and mix well, and set them in a cold place for fifteen or twenty
minutes before cooking. Roll, separately, each oyster in sifted crumbs and then in a
batter, made of the yolks of as many eggs as you have dozens of oysters, beaten with a
little clarified butter, or salad oil, seasoned with a pinch of cayenne pepper and salted.
Dip each oyster from the crumb into this, and repeat if crumbs enough do not adhere.
Fry in very hot fat, and have enough to cover the oysters. They will brown beautifully,
without turning.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS.

Three dozen oysters, a large teacup of bread-crumbs, two ounces of butter, pepper,
salt, half a teacup of oyster juice. Make layers of these ingredients, putting crumbs in
the dish first, then oysters, seasoning and butter, and so on until the dish is full, putting

HOME DISSERTATIONS.

crumbs and pieces of butter upon the top, pouring the liquor over all. Bake in a quick
oven about fifteen minutes. These can be put in oyster shells if preferred, and can be
served to each person in that manner.

OYSTERS A LA POULETTE OR FRICASSEE.

All oysters should be very carefully examined to see that no pieces of shell are attached
to them. This is a tedious process, but a necessary one. For a poulette, mix a table-
spoon of butter and a tablespoon of flour in the bottom of a saucepan. Then add the
liquor of the oysters gradually. If there is not enough to make the sauce as consistent as
cream sauce, put in water. Season with salt and pepper, and a very little nutmeg. Let
the sauce boil for one minute, and then put in the oysters. Let them remain until the
edges begin to curl ; then take the pan off the fire and stir into it the yolks of three raw
eggs, three tablespoons of salad oil, and one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice. Add
one tablespoon of chopped parsley, and the oysters will be ready to serve.

M OYSTER FRITTERS.

Drain as many oysters as you want to use, sprinkle some salt and pepper over them,
make a batter of three well beaten eggs, four tablespoons of milk, enough flour to make a
thin batter. Heat enough lard to swim the fritters in, use two large spoons to prepare
them, putting a little batter in one spoon into which put an oyster and drop on it more
batter from the other spoon, then drop it into the hot lard and fry quickly without burning.

M OYSTER CHOWDER.

Put thin slices of salt pork into the bottom of a kettle, then a layer of thin sliced pota-
toes, then oysters over the potatoes, season them with salt, pepper and some butter ; pour
over each layer half a teacup of tomato catsup, put in what you wish in layers, pour over
it the liquor of the oysters, cover tightly and let stew slowly for half an hour.

M OYSTER PIE.

Stew enough oysters to make a pie the size you wish; if the liquor is fresh stew the
oysters in it, that is, let them just come to a boil, season with salt and pepper, and mix
together two tablespoons of corn starch or flour, with two tablespoons of butter to a pint
of the stew; line a deep earthen pie-plate with a rich paste a quarter of an inch thick, then
put in the oysters and cover with an upper crust solid, or ornament with strips of paste.

OYSTER PATES.

In puffs of rich pastry, put two or three oysters stewed in a dressing of cream ; cover
with a round of the pastry, and serve. Both puffs and oysters must be hot.

STEWED OYSTERS.

It is important that oysters be drained and rinsed, taking out every particle of shell.
When canned oysters are used, which is generally the case away from the sea-coast, do
not use the liquor, but if fresh oysters can be had the liquor should always be used.

OYSTERS. 95

To one quart of oysters, heat a pint of cream or milk in a double kettle, or in one vessel
placed in another of hot water. If the oysters are canned use a pint of water, if fresh
boil and skim the liquor, add the hot cream, to which there must be two tablespoons of
flour rubbed smooth in a little milk. If milk is used instead of cream, rub an ounce and
a half of butter with the flour; season with salt, pepper, and mace if liked ; when very
hot, put in the oysters, and serve as soon as they are puffed and curled. If preferred,
the oysters when drained and washed may be stewed in hot milk, without any of their own
liquor, seasoned, and thickened with rolled cracker.

PHILADELPHIA CLAM CHOWDER.

Peel and slice one quart of onions, put them into a saucepan with two quarts of water,
and half a pound of salt pork cut in half-inch pieces, and boil these ingredients together
for half an hour; then add one quart of potatoes, peeled and sliced quarter of an inch
thick, two tablespoons of sugar, one of salt, one teaspoon each of sweet marjoram and
summer savory, and one saltspoon each of ground cloves and red pepper; wash one quart
of clams, chop them medium fine, put them into the chowder, and continue to cook it un-
til the potatoes are done; meantime soak half a pound of sea-biscuit in cold water for five
minutes, and then put it into the chowder. Serve the chowder hot, with a plate of crackers.

PHILADELPHIA CLAM SOUP.

Twenty-five small clams, one quart of milk, half a cup of butter, one tablespoon of
chopped parsley, three potatoes, two large tablespoons of flour, salt, pepper. The clams
should be chopped fine and put into a colander to drain. Pare the potatoes and chop
rather fine. Put them on to boil with the milk, in a double kettle. Rub the butter and
flour together until perfectly creamy, and when the milk and potatoes have been boiling
fifteen minutes, stir this in, and cook eight minutes more. Add the parsley, pepper and
salt, and cook three minutes longer. Now add the clams. Cook one minute longer, and
serve. This gives a very delicate soup, as the liquor from the clams is not used.

SCALLOPED CLAMS.

Butter a deep tin dish, put in a layer of grated bread or cracker crumbs, sprinkle in
pepper and bits of butter; then put in a layer of clams chopped fine, with butter and
pepper, and repeat with alternate layers of crumbs and clams until the dish is full. Let
the last layer be of crumbs, with plenty of butter on top; put a plate on it, after adding
one cup of rich milk, and bake three-quarters of an hour; take off the plate long enough
to brown the top nicely before serving.

M. CLAM STEW.

Drain the liquor from fifteen clams, heat the liquor in a porcelain saucepan, add one
tablespoon of flour stirred into four of butter, one teaspoon of salt, one pint of cream or
milk, let all come to a boil, then add the clams; if very large cut in two. If the clams are
in the shell, place them on a gridiron over hot coals, taking them out of the shells soon as
open, saving the juice.

FRYING, ROASTING, BROILING, STEWING
AND STEAMING.

FRYING means cooking by immersion in hot fat, butter, or oil. There is no English word
for what is called frying in a spoonful of fat, first on one side and then on the other.
Saute is the French word and should be Anglicized. Ordinary cooks instead of
frying, invariably saute everything. Almost every article that is usually sauted is much
jbetter and more economical if fried ; as, for instance, oysters, fish, birds, cutlets, crabs,
etc. The fat should always be tested before the article is immersed. A little piece of
bread may be thrown in, and if it colors quickly, the fat is ready, and not before. Hot
grease reaches a very much greater temperature than boiling water, and consequently the
surtace of anything is almost instantaneously hardened or crisped when thrown in. The
inside is thus kept free from grease and quickly cooked. An article first dipped in egg
and bread-crumbs should be entirely free from grease when thus cooked, as the egg is
hardened the instant it touches the fat, and the oyster or whatever is being cooked is per-
fectly protected. The same fat can be used repeatedly for frying the same thing. After
frying, let the fat stand for about five minutes, strain, and then return it to the kettle,
which should always be kept covered, after it is once cold. The fat in which fish is fried
should not again be used for anything except fish. A little kettle for frying potatoes ex-
clusively should always be at hand.

Now, as to the steak question. I admit that broiled steak is excellent, if the fire is
just right, and the only proper fire is a bed of hard wood coals or charcoal, and even coke;
but it is next to impossible to broil nicely with either hard or soft coal, the universal fuel
in this part of the world. And housekeepers know how difficult it is to have a coal fire
just ready to broil, especially in the early morning, and how often, in spite of their best
endeavors, the gas and smoke will affect the flavor of the meat. Now, I speak of the best
way to do things with the means and appliances at hand, and the best way to procure
uniformly good results. I maintain, and am prepared to prove, that steak can be fried to
qual in flavor and juiciness any broiled steak that ever was cooked. Broiling is a good
way (and I believe has been instituted) to prevent ignorant cooks from overdoing it, and
is certainly better than having it fried to death.

I look you unflinchingly in the eyes while I lift on high the Frying Pan. What is
more, I defy you to taste the difference between your gridironed steaks and the steaks I
cook in a pan except that you would pronounce mine rather the better ! I do not praise
myself. The necessity of having* good steaks without a broiler has developed in me a
capacity to make them so. I keep a pan on purpose for steaks, and into that pan no
butter or lard or fat of any sort ever enters, and it is kept religiously clean and smooth. I
96

M. A. CAHN, President 5. L. COOK, Secretary

COOK & CO.

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FRYING ROASTING. 97

place it over the liveliest kind of a jack-pine fire, and in an instant it is at broiling heat,
I dry two steaks with a napkin, rub a little salt and black pepper on them, and lay them
in the frying-pan, with meantime a platter and a lump of butter waiting in the oven. In
a minute the steaks are ready to be turned, as the point is to brown them on both sides
as quickly as possible, and so retain the juice and flavors that are, alas, too often
sizzled away on the bars of a gridiron. In four minutes the steaks are done sufficiently
for most people they are cut a trifle thinner than for coal-broiling, and are placed on
the platter with another bit of butter on top and kept closely covered for a few moments.
And hereby hangs a tale: One member of my family for a long time scoffed at these
"fried" steaks, and would none of them. One day a thought struck me. I heated the
iron potato-masher to a lively shade of color, and applied it to the top of a tempting
"porter-house," burning bars across it after the manner of a broiler. The relish with
which this steak was devoured by the biased individual, and his wonder that people would
submit to fried steaks when broils were " so superior," was only equaled by my relish of
the joke that had engulfed him so completely. After he had innocently eaten and praised
these steaks for two or three weeks, I disclosed to him in a few impressive words how he
had been decieved. He was staggered, and, of course, naturally irritated at being sold,
but he now, with the native nobility and candor of his soul, acknowledges that my way of
" frying " is quite tolerable, even without the brand of the potato-masher. I recommend
this method to all with whom fuel and time are things to be considered.

Beef stiet salted is quite as good for frying as lard, and is much cheaper; it can be
prepared for use as follows: Skin carefully, chop it fine, add to it any fat you may have
skimmed off of soup or meat boilers, put it on the fire with a little water, boil gently fif-
teen minutes, skim it well during the process, take from the fire, leave it five minutes, and
then strain it; after which, put it in pots, and keep them in a dry, cool place. Cover the
pots well every time you have occasion to use the fat, but never cover them while the
grease is warm. This fat is as good as any other to fry fish, fritters, and other things
that require to be entirely covered with grease in cooking.

There are a few common-sense recipes and rules which the young housewife will do
well to remember: Meat must have a hot fire always to start on to cicatrize the outside
and keep in the juices. Avoid sticking a fork in it as much as possible. When necessary
to turn, if a roast, do it with the aid of a cloth, taking it by the skewers or bone. If boil-
ing meat, leg of mutton for instance, pour boiling water over it and skim thoroughly.
Never expose meat to the action of salt while cooking, it extracts the juice, and leaves
the meat poor; but in making soup, where the idea is to extract all the virtue possible, use
salt. Seasonings must be added to the gravy of the meat, which should always be thick-
ened with a little flour; the old-fashioned way of rubbing flour into the roast before cook-
ing is a good one, or at least does no harm.

Roasting, meaning to heat violently, is cooking before an open fire; it implies the action
of a much greater degree of heat than that employed in any of the previously specified
methods of cooking. In the days of open fireplaces this was the general mode of cooking

9 i> HOME DISSERTATIONS.

large pieces of meat; now but few persons care to take the trouble to have meat so cooked;
consequently baking, or roasting as it is improperly termed, in a very hot oven is found to
be a cheaper and more convenient method, and is more generally adopted. Meat of any
kind is tenfold better roasted than baked. In Europe, all these articles are roasted, and
people there would have great contempt for a piece of beef or a turkey baked. Much de-
pends upon the management of the fire. It should be made some time before the meat
is placed for roasting, so that the coals may be bright and hot. It should also be strong
enough to last, with only the addition of an occasional coal at the top. Basting can be
avoided, without allowing the juice to escape harden the sides by exposure to a hot fire.
The idea of basting must have arisen from the fact that the juice of the meat was allowed
to escape, and then the attempt to restore it by basting. To baste meat when only fat is
in the pan will make it a little fatter. The seasoning of meat before it is brown lets out
a good deal of juice.

Broiling is a very important matter in cooking; too many persons to save time and
trouble fry instead of broiling chops ; steak, birds, and fish; in fact comparisons should
not be drawn between the two modes of cooking, ham being twice as delicate when nicely
broiled as when, as is generally the case, it is fried. We will give a few hints about broil-
ing, which, if carefully followed, will add very much to the comfort of the table. Always
grease the gridiron well, and have it hot before the meat is placed upon it. Anything
egged and bread-crumbed should be buttered before it is broiled. Fish should be but-
tered and sprinkled with flour, which will prevent the skin from adhering to the gridiron.
Cutlets, and in fact every similar thing, are more delicate buttered before broiling. Birds
and other things which need to be halved, should be broiled inside first. Remember that
a hot, clear fire is necessary for cooking all small articles. They should be turned often,
to be cooked evenly, without being burned. Never put a fork in the lean pait of meat on
the gridiron, as it allows the juice to escape. Always cover the gridiron with a tin pan or
a baking-pan. The sooner the meat is cooked without burning, the better. The pan
holds the heat, and often prevents a stray line of smoke from touching the meat. If the
fire should be too hot sprinkle salt over it.

Puddings when boiled should be cooked in boiling water. Wet and flour the cloth
before adding the pudding. In tying the pudding, leave room enough for it to swell. If
cooking in a mould, do not fill the mould quite full. Never let the water stop boiling. As
it wastes away in boiling, replenish the kettle from another containing boiling water.

Stewing is excellent, wholesome, and economical, and is best done on a stove, over a
slow fire. Keep the lid of the stew-pan closely shut, and simmer the contents steadily.
Never bring to a boil.

Steaming. There is one thing I notice, very few seem to think much of steaming. I
like to steam very many things potatoes, puddings, brown bread, etc. When one gets
in tne way of it, it is an easy and a good way for many things. A dish of rice is better so,
ana no trouble with burning.

POULTRY.

TO PREPARE A FOWL FOR COOKING.

First take out the feathers and then singe it. For doing the latter, hold the fowl over
a piece of lighted paper, or a spoonful of alcohol on a plate, the latter is especially rec-
ommended because it gives clean flame. Wash quickly in one water. Take out the pin
feathers with the point of a knife. To cut up a chicken to get as many pieces as possible,
cut off the wings so that a little piece of the breast remains with the wing. Remove
the crop by cutting the skin at the back of the neck. Cut off the neck close to the body.
Next take off the wing side-bones. Having cut them loose from the backbone, bend
them towards the front and they will part at the joint; loosen them with the knife. Take
off the legs next. Instead of making a division between the second joint and drumstick,
cut midway the second joint, and then just below the joint, and trim off the lower end of
the drumstick.

Next cut through the side just where the breast-bone joins the ribs. Then the breast-
bone can be pulled free from the back, and the entrails can be taken out easily without
breaking, which is decidedly a consideration, because if, in drawing a chicken, the entrails
are broken, it becomes necessary to wash the chicken very thoroughly, and you thus
destroy its flavor. Cut off the lower part of the breast-bone without splitting it, because,
while that is a very good piece, it is apt to be a very small one. If there are any pieces
of ribs attached to the sides of the breast-bone trim them off. Cut the upper part into
two pieces right down the middle, or into four, down the middle and then each piece in
two, according to the size of the chicken. Having cut up the breast-bone, the entrails
are to be taken away from the back, cutting around the vent being necessary in order to
loosen them. The oil bag is of course to be removed; the liver also, without breaking
the gall, which can be avoided by leaving a little piece of the liver attached to it. Split
the gizzard, take out the bag of stones within. If there is on it any appearance of the
contents, wash it, not otherwise. Having now reduced the chicken in hand to " first
principles," separate the backbone and neck, and observe the back sidebones, where
are located the " oysters." If the back is split entirely down the " oysters " are cut in
two; but by cutting off the end of the backbone they are preserved. To some they are the
choicest part of the chicken.

HOW TO PREPARE AND TRUSS A CHICKEN FOR ROASTING.

After the fowl has been drawn and rinsed, by deftly cutting the skin at the joint of
the leg, pull out the tendons. Then cut the neck off near the body, being careful to leave
all the skin, and also remove the tips of the wings. These parts, with the heart, liver and
gizzard, can be boiled for gravy. The chicken should be filled with a light dry dressing

ioo HOME DISSERTATIONS.

of a quart of grated bread-crumbs, using the white portion of the bread, and a half cup
of butter, which is seasoned with a tablespoon of salt, a scant teaspoon of pepper, one of
parsley, one of summer savory, and half a teaspoon of sage. The whole should be mixed
lightly. When the chicken is filled the wings and legs should be skewered in place and
the skin of the neck drawn down by a skewer on to the back. The chicken should then
be rubbed with butter, dredged with flour, thoroughly seasoned, and roasted an hour and
a quarter. It should be basted, dredged with flour, and seasoned with salt and pepper
lightly every fifteen minutes during the time it is roasting.

BOILED CHICKEN.

Carefully pluck and draw a tender chicken, singe it, wipe it with a wet towel, cut off
the head and feet, and truss it for boiling; put the chicken over the fire in sufficient water
to cover it, with a level tablespoon of salt and a teaspoon of peppercorns or a small
red pepper; boil the chicken until it is tender, then serve it with cream sauce. A fowl
boiled very gently for about four hours, or until it is tender, and served with the cream
sauce, makes an economical and palatable dish. The chicken or fowl may be boiled until
nearly tender enough to serve, then taken from the broth, put into a saucepan with the
sauce, and the cooking finished in this way.

BROILED CHICKEN.

The chicken should be young and tender. Cut it through the back, clean, wash, and
wipe it dry; spread it 'on the gridiron, and cook slowly with the inside towards the fire;
keep ;t so until nearly done; the chicken cooks more thoroughly in this way, and the sur-
face being seared, the juice is retained. It must be well browned on both sides, then
served on a hot platter with a little butter, pepper, and salt. Pigeons may be broiled in the
same way.

FRICASSEE CHICKEN.

Clean, wash, and cut up the fowls, which need not be so tender as for roasting. Lay
them in salt and water for half an hour. Put them in a pot with enough cold water to
cover them, and half a pound of salt pork cut into thin strips. Cover closely, and let them
heat very slowly; then stew for an hour, or until the fowls are tender. I have used chickens
jfor this purpose that required four hours stewing, but they were tender and good when
done. Only put them on in season, and cook very slowly. If they boil fast, they toughen
and shrink into uneatableness. When tender, add a little parsley chopped, and pepper.
Cover closely again, and, when it has heated boiling, stir in a teacup of milk, to which
have been added two beaten eggs and two tablespoons of flour. Boil up fairly; add a
tablespoon of butter. Arrange the chicken neatly in a deep chafing-dish, pour the gravy
over it, and serve. In this, as in all cases where beaten egg is added to hot liquor, it is
best to dip out a few spoonfuls of the latter, and drop a little at a time into the egg. beat-

POULTRY. ioi

ing all the while, that it may heat evenly and gradually before it is put into the scalding
contents of the saucepan or pot. Eggs managed in this way will not curdle, as they are
apt to do if thrown suddenly into hot liquid.

FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH RICE.

Carefully pluck and singe a plump spring chicken, cut it in small pieces, removing the
intestines without breaking them, and quickly brown it in a hot frying-pan with enough
butter to prevent burning; season the chicken with salt and pepper; take care it is done in
the thickest part before serving it; when the chicken is first put over the fire to cook, put
a teacup of clean rice into plenty of salted boiling water, and boil it fast for twenty min-
utes, or until the kernels are just tender; then drain the rice, lay it on a hot platter, and
serve the fried chicken on it.

CHICKEN POT PIE.

Cut up two large fowls and season them with pepper only, as the ham or pork will salt
it sufficiently. Make a good paste in the proportion of a pound and a half of minced suet
to three pounds of flour; let there be plenty of paste, as it is always much liked by eaters
of pot pie. Roll out the paste an inch thick, and cut most of it into long squares. To pre-
vent the paste sticking and burning, butter the sides of the pot very lavishly, and line them
with paste nearly to the top. Cut up a pound of corned ham or salt pork, lay slices at the
bottom of the pot, and then the pieces of the fowl, interspersed all through with squares
of paste, and potatoes pared, quartered and parboiled, as the first water in which they are
cooked is rank. Pour in a quart of water; cover the whole with a lid of paste, having a
slit in the centre, through which the gravy will bubble up; heat very slowly, and boil two
hours. Half an hour before you take it up, put in through the hole in the centre of the
crust some bits of butter rolled in flour, to thicken the gravy. When done, put the pie on a
large dish, and pour the gravy over it; the ham or pork will salt it sufficiently.

STEWED FOWL WITH RICE.

Truss the fowl for boiling, and stew it in about a quart of mutton broth seasoned with
a little pepper, salt, and half a blade of mace, for an hour and a half, skimming it often.
About half an hour before the fowl is ready to serve add a large cup of rice, and when
tender strain the broth from it, and place the rice on a sieve to dry and swell before the
fire, keeping the fowl hot; then place it in the centre of a hot dish, with the rice arranged
in rather a high border around it. Serve with parsley and butter sauce in a tureen.

CHICKEN CROQUETTES.

One pound of cooked chicken, half a teaspoon of pepper, half a tablespoon of salt, half
a tablespoon of butter, one egg, half a pint of cream, juice of half a lemon, cracker crumbs.
Chop the chicken very fine, mix it with the salt, pepper, butter, egg and cream, have your

102 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

molding board well covered with cracker crumbs, form your croquettes in shape and roll
them in the crumbs, first covering them with well-beaten egg, fry them in a croquette
basket in boiling fat until a light brown. Veal and turkey may be used instead of chicken.

CHELSEA CHICKEN CUTLETS, WITH GREEN PEAS.

Prepare the same as for croquettes, then shape them like cutlets, cover with well-beaten
egg and grated bread, and fry the same as croquettes, serve on a platter garnished with
green peas.

BONED CHICKEN FOR PICNICS.

Bone two chickens, lay upon the table and spread first with a layer of boiled tongue in
slice, then with nicely seasoned veal forcemeat, and lastly wit!n slices of broiled ham. Roll
each up firmly, tie round with tape and simmer on the back of the stove in a deep sauce-
pan with the chicken bones, some herbs, onion, carrot, etc., for flavoring, and enough
water to cover. When tender take out the chickens and let the well seasoned gravy sim-
mer longer until reduced to a pint; then add to it an ounce of dissolved gelatine, and when
the gravy is nearly set into jelly pour it over the chickens. These must have been pre-
viously unbound and cut into slices ready for serving, but still retaining their shape. Gar-
nish the platter with parsley sprigs and sliced lemon.

CANTONS DE ROUEN.

This is a very interesting dish, the little ducks being made from the legs of a chicken.
Select a chicken which has an unbroken skin. Cut the legs off in the usual way, only be
careful to leave as much skin as possible. Remove the thigh bones without cutting the
skin not a difficult thing to do. Replace the bones with some stuffing of bread and
herbs, or mushroons, if you wish. After the thighs are stuffed cut off the lower bones
about an inch below the joint. Then truss into shape. Roast or bake the little ducks and
serve them with green peas, or salad, or mixed vegetables. If you want to make them
very rich, season the stuffing with salt, and pepper, and spices, and add the white of an
egg and about a teaspoon of butter. To make dry stuffing, break up the soft part of
bread fine, soak the crusts and squeeze them dry, and break them up fine, and then season
in any way you like, only don't put in any liquid. Before baking the cantons you can tie
on their backs a thin slice of salt fat pork. That is called " larding," They look pretty
when they have something on them, leaves of parsley, watercresses, or anything of the
kind.

PRESSED CHICKEN.

Boil one or two chickens in a small quantity of water, with a little salt; when thoroughly
done, take all the meat from the bones, keeping the light and dark meat separate; chop
fine and season. Put in a pan a layer of dark and light meat; add the liquor it was boiled
in, which should be about a cup. Press with a small weight. When cold, cut in slices.

POULTRY. 103

CURRIED FOWL A L'INDIFNNE.

One fowl, one pint stock, three dessertspoons of curry powder, six onions, four ounces
butter, one gill milk, three tomatoes, three cloves of garlic, half a lemon, one ounce rais-
ins, weighed before stoning. Rub curry the day before to a paste with a little milk, add-
ing the rest by degrees; let simmer very slowly next day; fry onions, garlic, tomatoes,
sliced in butter, then fry pieces of fowl brown ; put all to stew half an hour, except the
lemon, and add that last before seasoning.

CHICKEN JELLY.

One pair of chickens, two tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce, two tablespoons walnut
sauce, one tablespoon of salt, half a teaspoon of mace, half a teaspoon of cloves and all-
spice, ten eggs, two lemons. Boil the chickens till you can pull the meat from the bones.
Allow the bones to boil half an hour longer, stand it in a cool place and it will jelly. Next
day cut the meat in small pieces, melt the jelly and put the meat in it; add the sauce and
spices, boil the eggs hard and cut in slices, also the lemons, line a mould or bowl with
these slices, pour in the mixture and let it stand in a cool place ; but not to freeze. The
water should just cover the chicken when put to boil. This is a very ornamental dish and
keeps good a long time.

ROAST TURKEY.

Turkey, seasoning, bread-crumbs, quarter of a pound of butter, a little thym<%
Choose a nice fat turkey of eight or ten pounds, clean and singe it, wipe care f u r y Vfh
a damp towel but do not wash in water, and fill with dressing which has been prepared
as follows : Grate enough dry bread to fill it loosely, not packed tightly ; to this add
your butter cut into small pieces, pepper and salt to taste, and about two tablespoons
of thyme rubbed fine ; mix all these well together and your dressing is ready for use ;
stuff your turkey, tie it well in shape; either lard the top or lay slices of bacon over
it ; wet the skin, and sprinkle it well with pepper, salt, and flour. It is well to allow a
turkey to remain some time stuffed before cooking. The secret of having a good roast
turkey is to baste it often and cook it long enough. A turkey weighing ten pounds should
cook three hours and a half at least. The excellence of the turkey depends much upon
the frequency of basting it; occasionally baste it with a little butter, oftener with its own
drippings. Just before taking it up from the fire or out of the oven, put on more melted
butter, and sprinkle over flour; this will make the skin more crisp and brown. While the
turkey is cooking, boil the giblets well, chop them fine, and mash the liver. When the
turkey is done, put it on a hot dish. Put the baking pan on the fire, dredge in a little
flour, and when cooked stir in a little boiling water or stock; strain it, skim carefully, add
the giblets, season with salt and pepper. Besides the gravy, always serve cranberry jelly
with turkey.

104? HOME DISSERTATIONS.

A SIMPLE WAY OF PREPARING BONED TURKEY OR CHICKEN.

Boil the fowl in as little water as possible, until the bones can easily be separated from
the meat. Remove all of the skin, slice and mix together the light and dark parts, pre-
pare a dressing as for roast turkey, put upon the fire to melt the butter, then mould into
a round ball and put the meat all around it. Boil down the liquid in which the turkey cr
chicken was boiled, then pour it on the meat; wrap it tightly in a cloth, press it with a
heavy weight for a few hours. When served, it is cut into thin slices.

BOILED TURKEY WITH CELERY SAUCE.

The best turkeys marketed in New York are those called mutton-fed; they are always
in prime condition, and are worth the slight advance in price over the ordinary turkey. To
boil a turkey have it carefully plucked, singed and wiped all over with a towel wet in cold
water ; after it is wiped cut off the head and neck close to the body, first cutting the skin
down the back of the neck, so as to leave the breast skin entire; throw away the windpipe
and crop. To draw the bird make a cut under the leg where it can be concealed in
trussing the bird, and then loosen the entrails from the body of the bird ; trm can
easily be done by pressing the back of the fingers close against the inside of the car-
cass and cautiously breaking the thin covering of the intestines away from the bones ;
after the turkey is drawn, carefully wash a bunch of celery in plenty of cold salted water ;
cut the tender stalks in half-inch bits, put the celery into the turkey, with a heaping tea-
spoon of salt and a liberal dust of cayenne, and sew up and truss the turkey. After the
turkey is stuffed and trussed, put it into a large saucepan with enough boiling water to
cover it, add two teaspoons of salt and a small dried red pepper, or a teaspoon of pepper-
corns, keep the saucepan covered, and boil the turkey slowly until it is tender, which will
be in about ten minutes to each pound, from the time it begins to boil. When the turkey
is done take it up, remove the cords or skewers used in trussing, and serve it hot, with a
sauce made as follows: When the turkey is nearly done, put in a small saucepan over the
fire a heaping tablespoon each of butter and flour, and stir them together until they begin
to bubble; then gradually stir in about a pint of the broth in which the turkey has been
boiling ; when the sauce is stirred quite smooth season it palatably with salt and pepper
and serve it in a sauce-boat with the turkey.

MINCED TURKEY WITH POACHED EGG.

A very appetizing dish is made of cold boiled or roast turkey. Trim off all skin and
most of the fat, especially that on the back; pick out the little tidbits in the recesses. Cut
off all that will not look neat when sliced cold. Season with salt and pepper, and a table-
spoon or two of minced celery, chop up the meat, put it in a pan with a little butter or
turkey fat, to prevent burning. Moisten with a little broth made from the turkey bones.
Poach one or two eggs for each person; arrange the minced meat neatly on slices of but-
tered toast, place the egg on top and serve. The above mode of preparing a breakfast

POULTRY. 105

dish is not only economical, but produces one of the most delicious dishes that can be
made. Almost any kind of boiled or roast poultry, game or meats can be utilized in this
way.

BRAISED DUCKS.

Truss a pair of fine, young and fat ducks as for roasting and place them in a stew-pan
together with two or three slices of bacon, a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a
little thyme and parsley. Season with pepper, and cover "the whole with a broth, adding
to the broth a gill of white wine. Place the pan over a gentle fire and allow the ducks to
simmer until done, basting them frequently. When done, remove them from the pan and
place them where they will keep hot. A turnip should then be cut up and fried in some
butter. When well browned, drain the pieces and cook them until tender in the liquor in
which the ducks were braised. Now strain and thicken the gravy, and after dishing up
the ducks, pour it over them, garnishing with the pieces of turnip.

ROASTED DUCKS.

Clean and truss them like chickens. For two, make a dressing of half a pound of bread-
crumbs, three ounces of butter, one large onion grated, one teaspoon of salt, and half
teaspoon of pepper. Season the ducks both inside and out with pepper, salt, and a little
sage; put them in the dripping-pan with a little water; put bits of drippings over them,
and as they cook, baste very often. Stew and chop the giblets for the gravy, which must
be made in the dripping-pan, after pouring off most of the fat; thickening it a little with
flour and season well. Stewed cranberries or apple sauce should be served with them.

ROAST GOOSE.

Clean and truss it; and if old, boil half an hour sewed in a clean cloth; then stuff it
with bread-crumbs, seasoned with butter, pepper, salt and sage; dot it with drippings or
lard, and baste very often while baking. The stuffing may be made of mashed potatoes,
instead of bread-crumbs, and sweet marjoram. Stewed apples should be served with it.

ENGLISH GREEN GOOSE.

Green goose, from four to six months old, is dressed in the same way as roast duck, and
similarly backed with plenty of green peas. The giblets afford a nice variety. Foreign cooks,
however, esteem turkey giblets much more highly than those from the goose ; they use the
pinions for garnishing several made dishes, including those of fish. We cannot agree with
their estimate. Goose giblets contain more flavor, fat, and gelatine. After sufficient
stewing with pepper and salt, and perhaps a little onion if liked, they are ready to be con-
verted into soup, a pie, or a ragout. The best giblets of all, we hold, are those of the
cygnet ; unfortunately they are not to be had every day.

GAME.

The game is up.

CYMBELINE.

CORRESPONDENT calls our attention to the large quantities of diseased game which are constantly
sent to this market. There is no doubt that the complaint is well founded. Even when the game is
in a sound condition when it arrives here, the absence of all proper care of it soon turns it into unwholesome
food. It is thrown into a large ice-house, and lies there for weeks together with meat, vegetables,
and all sorts of other articles heaped^ in with it. It becomes sodden with the damp, half decomposed,
and is entirely deprived of its natural flavor. Any of our readers who have eaten a partridge after it has been
recently killed, and then tasted one of our ' store ' partridges, will readily understand the evils caused by the
present system pursued in our markets. Somewhere near the first week of last December, we happened to ask
a dealer whether the canvas-back ducks were in good condition. ' As good as they will be all through the
Winter,' said he, with a peculiar smile. 'What do you mean by that?' we asked. ' Well,' he replied, ' the
fact is that most of the ducks which we depend on for the Winter are here now. Others will come along, of
course, but we have laid in the greater part of our stock. We keep them in the ice-house, and take them out
as we want them.' Now what resemblance can a canvas-back duck thus treated have to the same bird when it
has been carefully kept a few days not frozen or sodden with wet, but hung up in a cool and dry place after
having been properly ' drawn ' ?

" This last point is one of great importance. Much of the game which is sold by our dealers is not ' drawn,'
and consequently is almost entirely spoiled as an article of food. There is no market in the world so well
supplied with game throughout the Winter season as ours, and it is a great shame that this highly nutritious
and valuable food should be ruined, as it now is, by the ignorance or stupidity of those who deal in it.

" It is a matter of surprise that our Board of Health has so long permitted the markets of our City to have
undressed fowl and game exposed for sale therein. In England, on the Continent, and in New England,
although no legal enactments forbid such sale, custom has created a law which is rigidly enforced, prohibiting
the sale of any undressed material not alive "

LARDED GROUSE.

" Clean and wash the grouse. Lard the breast and legs. Run a small skewer into the
legs and through the tail; tie firmly with twine. Dredge with salt, and rub the breast
with soft butter; then dredge thickly with flour. Put into quick oven. If to be very rare,
cook twenty minutes; if wished better done, thirty minutes. If the birds are cooked in a
tin-kitchen, it should be for thirty or thirty-five minutes. When done, place on a hot
dish, on which has been spread bread sauce. Garnish with parsley. The grouse may,
instead, be served on a hot dish, with the parsley garnish, and the sauce and crumbs
served in separate dishes. The first method is the better, however, as you get in the sauce
all the gravy that comes from the birds."

LARDED PARTRIDGES.
" Cook and serve the partridges the same as grouse."

LARDED QUAIL.

"Quails are cooked and served the same as grouse, only that quails cook in fifteen min-
utes. All dry meated birds are cooked in this way. Larding is to give richness to a dry
meat that does not have fat enough of its own; therefore, meats like goose, duck and
mutton are not improved by larding."

106

GAME. 107

BROILED QUAIL.

" Split the quail down the back; wipe with a damp towel. Season with salt and pepper,
rub thickly with soft butter, and dredge with flour. Broil ten minutes over clear coals,
with the inside toward the fire. Serve on buttered toast, garnish with parsley. Wood-
cock, and small birds may be broiled in the same manner, and are delicious and nourishing

for fare for invalids."

REED BIRDS.

" Pick, open, and wash carefully a dozen or more; place them in the folds of a clean
towel, and with a rolling-pin crush the bones quite flat; season with pepper and salt, spread
them in a folding gridiron, put them over a clear fire, broiling the inside first, and when a
light brown turn the gridiron. Serve on buttered toast, season with butter and salt, and
baste them well with fresh butter."

SADDLE OR HAUNCH OF VENISON.

" Wash it in warm water and rub it with fresh butter or lard. Cover the fat with sheets
of paper two double, buttered, and tied on with packthread that has been soaked to keep
it from burning. Or, what is better, cover the first sheets of paper with a coarse paste of
flour and water rolled out half an inch thick, then cover the paste with the second sheets
of paper, securing the whole well with the string to prevent its falling off. The fire should
be steady and strong. Put some butter into the dripping-pan and baste the meat with it
frequently. If wrapped in paste, it will not be done in less than five hours. Half an hour
before it is taken up, remove the coverings carefully, place again in the oven, baste it with
fresh butter and dredge it very lightly with flour. Send it to the table with fringed white
paper, wrapped round the bone, and its own gravy well skimmed. Serve currant jelly with
it. As venison chills immediately, the plates should be warm. Venison should never be
roasted unless very fat. The shoulder is a roasting piece, and may be done without the
paper and paste. Venison is best when quite fresh; but if it is to be kept a week before
cooking, wash it well with milk and water, then dry it thoroughly with cloths till there is
not the least damp remaining on it. Then mix together powdered ginger and pepper, and
rub it well over every part of the meat.' 1

HOW TO COOK A LEG OF VENISON.

This recipe, contributed by the chef S. H. Agneau, was communicated to him by the
cook of the Prince of Wales. Take a leg of venison, leave all the fat and skin on, and
rub it well with a glass of good sherry and brandy mixed. Then sprinkle a few pinches
of marjoram over it. Take some coarse Graham flour and mix it with water, making it
into a good stiff dough. Roll it out and envelop the leg of venison so as to seal it up;
then roast it on a spit or in a good hot oven for three hours. The dough must be about
two inches thick. Outside the dough roll some paper well greased to prevent the dough
from burning. When done and ready to serve, remove the dough. The aroma from the
venison will be something grand, and the juices that will flow from the first cut will be
the sauce that no epicure will say nay to.

BEEF.

BEEF TO ROAST.

The best cut of beef to roast is the second and third ribs. The oven should be very
hot when a roast of any kind is first put in. For a twelve pound roast, one pint of water,
one tablespoon of salt, one teaspoon of pepper. Mix the salt and pepper and rub them
well into the beef; lay it in the dripping-pan with the water, and roast two hours, basting
it often. When the beef is taken up, pour the fat from the dripping-pan, season the
gravy well; put a few spoonfuls over the beef, and serve the rest in a gravy-boat, thickened
if preferred with browned flour.

COLD ROAST BEEF, BROILED.

Cut rare roast beef in slices half an inch thick, lay them for half an hour on a plate con-
taining enough salad oil and vinegar to moisten the beef, allowing one tablespoon of vine-
gar to three of oil ; dust the meat with pepper ; turn the slices at the end of a half hour,
and in an hour broil them over a hot fire; do not wipe off the oil and vinegar before broil-
ing the beef; broil the beef very quickly at a hot fire, and serve it at once; a little butter,
salt and pepper can be used to season the broiled beef, and it may be garnished,
if desired, with lemon, parsley or watercress, or served with a dish of sliced fresh toma-
toes or cucumbers. Freshly-grated horse-radish, dressed with vinegar and salt, is excel-
lent with roast beef, either hot or cold.

R. CORNED BEEF.

What is generally termed the horseshoe, which is the cut next to the round steak, is ex-
cellent corned. It should remain in the pickle three days and nights, and no longer.
Boil till perfectly tender, then let it stand in the water in which it was boiled till cold, or
nearly so. If it is desirable to eat it warm when first cooked, what remains can be returned
to the kettle. One can usually buy the meat and have it corned to order, where he is in
the habit of buying regularly. Meats are usually kept in the brine too long, and after-
wards not thoroughly cooked, and for both these reasons, corned beef is often hard, dry
and unpalatable. It requires five to six hours to boil corned beef. If boiled gently for
this length of time, it will be very tender, have a fine flavor, and cut easily and smoothly.

R. THE HORSESHOE.

This cut of beef previously spoken of as being good corned, is also good boiled fresh,
either with water to cover it, in which case the broth is excellent for either soup or gravy;
or it can be boiled with just water enough in the bottom of the kettle to keep it from burn-
ing ; keep it tightly covered. In either case it is good hot or cold; but it must be boiled

1 08

BEEF. 109

till perfectly tender, fully three and a half hours. If much broth is desired, especially for
soup, the meat, or a part of it can be cut in small pieces, and if taken out as soon as done,
these pieces will make good hash or hash-cakes for breakfast. An excellent stew can also
be made by using a little macaroni, rice, two or three potatoes sliced, a small onion
cut in very small pieces, with plenty of the broth, and what part of the meat is required.
Dumplings, or toasted bread or crackers used with the stew are excellent.

BROILED. BEEFSTEAK.

The first requirement is not so much a tender and juicy steak, though this is always
desirable, but a glowing bed of coals, a wire gridiron, a stout one, with good-sized wires,
and double, so that you can turn the steak without touching it. The steak should be
pounded only in extreme cases, when it is cut too thick and is " stringy." Attempt noth-
ing else when cooking the steak ; have everything else ready for the table ; the potatoes
and vegetables dished and in the warming-closet. From four minutes onward is needed to
cook the steak. The time must depend on the size, and you can easily tell by the color
of the gravy which runs from the steak, when gently pressed with a knife, as to its condi-
tion. If the master of the house like it " rare done," it will be safe to infer that it is done
enough for him, when there is a suspicion of brown gravy with the red ; if, as is generally
the case, the next stage is the favorite one, remove the steak from the gridiron the instant
the gravy is of a light brown. Remove it to a platter, pepper and salt to suit your taste,
put on small lumps of butter, and then for two brief moments, cover it with a hot plate,
the two moments being sufficient to carry it to the table. One absolutely essential factor
in the preparation of good beefsteak is that it must be served at once.

BROILED ROUND OF BEEF.

Use a tender round-steak cut an inch and a half thick, cut it in strips an inch and a
half square and about four inches long; dip the strips in melted butter seasoned with salt
and pepper, put them between the bars of a double wire gridiron, and quickly broil them
over a very hot fire ; when they are done put them on a hot dish, pour the remainder of
the melted butter and seasoning over them, and serve them hot at once.

STEWED ROUND STEAK.

Have two pounds from the round of beef cut in steaks about an inch thick and three
inches square; put them over the fire in a hot frying-pan, and quickly brown them; when the
steaks are brown, if there is no fat on them, add to them a heaping tablespoon of good
drippings or butter, a can of tomatoes, or a quart of fresh tomatoes peeled and sliced, and
a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; cover the frying-pan, and gently stew the steaks
until they are cooked to the desired degree ; then dish them on the tomatoes, and serve
them with plain boiled or baked potatoes. This dish may be varied by boiling and mash-
ing a quart of potatoes, seasoning them with salt, pepper and butter, and then forming
with them a border, inside of which the steaks and tomatoes may be served.

no HOME DISSERTATIONS.

BEEFSTEAK ROLLS.

Use a tender round steak cut an inch thick; remove all gristle; lay the pieces of beef-
steak on the table, sprinkle over the surface of the meat a light seasoning of salt and pep-
per, and either chopped fresh celery or celery salt; cut rather thin slices of the soft part of
bread about half an inch thick, butter the bread, lay it on the meat, put very little pow-
dered cloves over, roll up the bread and meat together fastening the rolls with a string,
cover them with flour seasoned with salt and pepper, put them into a saucepan containing
enough hot water to prevent their burning, and brown them; cover them with hot water,
add a light seasoning of salt and pepper, and stew them gently until the meat is tender.
After the rolls are done, remove the strings, and serve them on a dish, with some of the
gravy poured over them, sending to the table with them a dish of plain boiled potatoes.

HASH.

Chop the cooked meat and twice as much potatoes, cold, in separate bowls. Put a little
water, boiling, and a bit of butter into an iron saucepan, stewpan, or spider; bring to a
boil. Then put in the meat and potatoes, well salted and peppered. Add other vegeta-
bles, if desired. Let it cook through well, under cover, stirring occasionally, so that the
ingredients be evenly distributed and to keep the bottom from sticking to the pan. When
done, it should be not at all watery, nor yet dry, but have sufficient adhesiveness to stand
on well-trimmed and buttered toast, on which it should be served. Hash from cold poul-
try can be made same way.

BEEFSTEAK PUDDING.

Remove all pieces of membrane from half a pound of suet, chop it fine, and mix it with
a scant pound of flour, a teaspoon of salt, half a saltspoon of pepper, and enough cold
water to form a dough stiff enough to roll out about three-quarters of an inch thick; cut
two pounds of round steak in inch pieces, and season it with pepper and salt; thickly
butter a two-quart earthen bowl ; lay the suet crust in the bowl, gently pressing it
against the sides and leaving the crust hanging over the sides of the bowl; put in
the beef, and a gill of cold water; draw the crust up over the meat, wetting the edges
to close them, so that the gravy cannot escape while the pudding is being cooked;
care must be taken to close the crust securely, for the excellence of the pudding
depends upon retaining the gravy; when the crust is perfectly closed over the meat
wet a cloth in hot water, dust it with flour, lay it over the top of the pudding, lift the
bowl, gather the edges of the cloth under the bottom of the bowl and tie them with a cord,
so that the water cannot penetrate while the pudding is being boiled; have ready over the
fire a large pot of actually boiling water, put in the bowl containing the pudding and boil
it steadily for three hours; then remove the cloth, turn the pudding from the bowl upon a
hot platter, without breaking the crust, and serve it hot; as it is cut, a rich gravy will flow
from it, which is to be served on each plate with a portion of the pudding.

BEEF.
MUGWUMP IN A HOLE.

One of the F. F. V.'s thus describes a Mugwump :
In the existence and development of what eventually
becomes a bullfrog there is a state of animal life after
he ceases to be a tadpole and before he becomes a bull-
frog. At this stage of his existence he is called by the
boys of Virginia and the South a " mugwump," viz.,
neither one thing nor the other.

Mugwump in a hole is prepared in the
same way as the English dish, " Toad in a
hole." One pound of fat meat, perhaps with
plenty of bone ; beef is best, veal second best.

One pint of milk, one cup of flour, one egg, and salt and pepper. Beat the egg very
lightly, add the milk, and a teaspoon of salt ; pour this upon the flour very gradually,
beating very light and smooth. Butter a two- quart dish, and in it put the meat ; season
well, and pour over it the batter ; bake an hour in a moderate oven. The mugwump, or
bit of meat can be taken out of the hole and served on a separate dish, accompanied by
vegetables, and the hole itself.

This is a good way of getting all that is to be had out of an underdone joint of cold
meat, especially if fat enough.

FRIZZLED BEEF.

Chip dried beef fine, pour boiling water over it, and let it stand a moment; pour off the
water, add butter, and fry until it curls a little; then serve hot with a little pepper. If
liked, a few eggs may be stirred in just before serving.

DRIED BEEF DRESSED WITH CREAM.

Chip the beef thin and fine; measure a pint of it without pressing down; put it in a
saucepan and pour cold water over it; let it heat slowly, and let it simmer a moment if
very salt; then drain off the water, and add one and a half gills of rich cream, and season
with pepper. Instead of cream, the same measure of milk may be used with an ounce of
butter and a teaspoon of flour. It is excellent laid on split crackers or toast, but for
this way it requires more dressing.

BEEF SAUSAGES.

Mince six pounds of rump beef and two pounds of bacon very fine; pound them; mix
well with six or eight cloves of garlic; season high with spices; fill into very large skins,
tie them in nine inch lengths, hang them in a dry, warm place or in the smoke. They are
eaten raw or broiled.

VEAL.

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.

Take out the bone, and fill the cavity with stuffing of bread-crumbs, seasoned with salt
pork chopped very fine, pepper, salt and sweet marjoram ; make deep incisions in the veal,
and fill them with the stuffing, or press into each a strip of salt pork. If a larding-needle
is at hand, strips of salt pork may be drawn through the veal without previous cutting.
'Bind it closely together with twine ; put it in the oven with a little water in the pan, baste
jOften, and roast until thoroughly done, remembering that no one likes rare veal. When
the veal is cooked make the gravy in the dripping pan, after pouring off the fat ; add broth
or water, if necessary ; season to the taste with pepper and salt, and thicken with browned
flour.

VEAL CUTLETS.

Cut the veal from the round in slices about an inch thick ; put it in a frying-pan and
half cover it with boiling water ; cover the pan closely and let it simmer ten minutes, take
it out and when well drained dip the pieces in the beaten yolk of egg seasoned with pep-
per, salt, grated lemon-peel, and a little nutmeg, then in grated bread, and fry them in
butter and lard. When cooked take them from the pan, pour out nearly all the fat, add
hot water (half a pint for an ordinary dish), thicken with two tablespoons of flour and sea-
son it, adding a little lemon juice. Pour the gravy over the veal, and garnish the dish
with sliced lemon. The lemon and nutmeg may be omitted if preferred.

SHOULDER OF VEAL STUFFED.

Remove the bone from a shoulder of veal without cutting through the outer skin, and
replace the bone with bread-crumbs, chopped thyme and parsley ; a little nutmeg together
with some butter and beef suet ; moisten with milk or hot water and bind with a beaten
egg ; add a few slips of fat pork or ham and seasoned with salt and pepper ; sew and
truss the shoulder in shape, put it into a baking-pan with the bones under it, and brown
fit quickly in a hot oven ; after the veal is brown, season it with salt and pepper, dredge it
with flour, and baste it with the drippings in the pan ; bake the veal about twenty minutes
to each pound, or until the gravy which runs from it shows a trace of red color ; an hour
before the veal is done peel a dozen or more medium-size potatoes, and put them into the
pan with the meat ; turn them occasionally to insure equal cooking, and, when the veal is
done, arrange them around it on a hot platter ; make a gravy for the veal by using the
drippings in the baking-pan ; after the meat is taken up set the pan over the fire, stir into
it a heaping tablespoon of flour and brown it, then stir in gradually a pint of boiling water
and a palatable seasoning of salt.

112

VEAL. 113

VEAL PIE.

" Weal pie," said Mr. Weller, soliloquizing, as he arranged the eatables on the
grass. " Werry good thing is weal pie, when you know the lady as made it, and is
quite sure it an't kittens ; and arter all though, where's the odds, when they're so
like weal that the piemen themselves don't know the difference." DICKENS.

Make an inch paste, roll out an inch thick and cut an oval piece for the bottom crust,
then cut a ring an inch thick and a half inch broad, lay it around the edge of the bottom
piece, put it in a pan and bake it a nice brown; also, cut a lid to fit in the ring and bake
that; keep it hot until you are ready to fill it; cut the veal into small pieces and put it
in a saucepan with half a pint of water; season with salt, pepper and butter, dredge in a
little flour and pour in two tablespoons of cream; let it boil up once or twice, then fill
the crust and cover with the lid. Serve at once.

VEAL LOAF.

Use about three pounds of cold veal, weighed after it is freed from bones and tough
gristle; chop it quite fine; chop fine also a cup of canned mushrooms, or half a dozen fresh
ones of medium size which have been carefully trimmed and washed in cold salted water;
to the veal and mushrooms add two cups of finely powdered crackers or fine bread-crumbs,
three raw eggs, a level tablespoon of butter softened with gentle heat, and a rather high
seasoning of salt, pepper and cayenne; mix all these ingredients together with the hands
until they can be molded into the form of one or more loaves; put the loaves into a but-
tered baking-pan, dust cracker or bread-crumbs over the top, and then quickly brown the
loaves in a hot oven and serve them hot. When the loaves are designed for a coid
luncheon or supper dish, the above named ingredients can be closely packed into buttered
pans or molds, and baked, and then cooled in the molds; they can be sliced after they are
cooled, or served whole and sliced at the table.

CALF'S HEAD BOILED.

Your butcher will clean the head; cut off the ears and dig out the eyes; boil head until
it falls to pieces; separate the meat from the bones; lay the brains in a dish and return
the remainder to water in which the head was boiled, and let it cook four hours; do not
allow the water to get too low; spice it highly with pepper, salt, allspice, cloves, mace;
when done, thicken with a little batter and lump of butter; remove from the fire, and when
tne steam evaporates, add one half pint of wine; take up in a deep dish and garnish with
sliced lemon and hard-boiled eggs.

TM HOME DISSERTATIONS.

BOILED PUDDINGS WITH MEATS.

.f think it is a pity we do not have more English puddings with our dinners. The Nor-
folk dumpling is excellent, eaten with the meat; so is the Yorkshire pudding baked
under the meat; and the English apple-pudding.

ENGLISH APPLE PUDDING.

Make a crust of one-third chopped suet; two-thirds flour; salt well; mix with cold water;
roll out to about three-quarters of an inch thick; butter a pudding bowl (one with a thick
rim); spread the dough over it, and knead into place with the hands till it is about evenly
thin all over; fill full of sliced apples, sugar, and a little nutmeg and cinnamon. Trim the
crust round the edge of the bowl, and roll all that is left, and lay over the top, making it
quite secure round the edges. Now spread the pudding-cloth over the top, and tie it
tightly down under the rim of the bowl; catch up the corners, fold over the top of the
pudding, and secure with a pin; plunge it into boiling water and cook steadily one and a
half hours.

YORKSHIRE PUDDING.

Yorkshire pudding is made the same way, but cooked differently. Remove your roast
when nearly done from the oven; pour the gravy from the dripping tin into a saucepan,
and pour the batter in the pan; set in your meat stand, and place the meat so it will drip
on the pudding; twenty minutes ought to cook it. Must have a good hot oven.

BOILED INDIAN DUMPLING.

Three cups meal scalded with one quart milk; three eggs; salt; boil in a cloth ;y;;e
hour. Good with roasts.

NORFOLK DUMPLINGS.

Norfolk dumplings are made in this way: One quart of milk; four eggs well beat.;'.:;
sifted flour, enough to make rather a thick batter, and salt. Dip the pudding cloth hi
boiling water, and spread it over a large bowl; dust the hot cloth with flour, and pour the
batter in; tie securely, and plunge into a pot of boiling water; boil one and one-fourth
hours; dish it up after everything else is ready, and eat with the meat. In some parts of
England this pudding is served first with the meat gravy, before the joint is brought to
the table. However, it is good no matter when you serve it. But in cooking all boiled
puddings, observe this rule: Keep it well covered with water, and never allow it to get off

the boil.

BOILED RICE.

Rice, too, is excellent for the children, prepared this way: Tie the rice in a strong cloth
loosely, and boil in salted water one and one-half hours; when cooked, it will be firm
enough to cut with a knife. To be eaten with the meat.

VEAL. 115

SWEETBREADS.

Tell me where is fancy bred,
Or in the heart or in the head ?

MERCHANT OF VENICE.

" Sweetbreads are found in calves and lambs near the throat or the heart. All the tough skin should be
carefully pulled off, and the sweetbreads should be allowed to lie in cold water for ten minutes. They should
afterwards be boiled twenty minutes no matter what the subsequent mode of cooking is to be. This makes
them whiter, thicker and firmer.

TO LARD AND BAKE SWEETBREADS.

Through each draw four pieces of pork about the size of a match. Let the sweetbreads
lie in cold water five or more minutes and boil them twenty minutes, after which spread
them with butter, dredge them with pepper, salt and flour, and bake twenty minutes in a
quick oven.

BROILED SWEETBREADS.

Split the sweetbreads," season with pepper and salt, rub with butter and sprinkle with
flour. Broil over a quick fire twenty minutes.

HOW TO CLEAN TRIPE.

The tripe marketed in cities is already cleaned and boiled, and only needs to be scalded
with boiling water and scraped with the back of a knife before finally dressing it for the
table. But in the country it may sometimes be necessary for the housewife to understand
the entire process of preparing it for cooking. Tripe consists of the walls and fatty por-
tions of the stomachs of calves and cows, carefully cleansed and partly cooked by boiling.
It is cleaned both with lime-water and with lye made from wood ashes. When lime is
used it should be mixed with sufficient cold water to make it entirely liquid. After the
stomach is emptied it should be sewed up so that no lime can penetrate it, and allowed to
remain in the lime-water for half an hour before scraping it. The lime must be washed off }
or it will burn the hands. When ashes are used the stomach is to be thickly sprinkled with
them after it is emptied, and washed in plenty of cold water, and it is put into a jar or
firkin with enough boiling water to cover it, and remains in the lye thus formed for five
or six hours before it is scraped. When neither lime nor ashes are available, the tripe
must be repeatedly scalded with boiling salted water, and scraped until it is clear ; after
that it must be laid in cold salted water for a week, the water being changed every day.
In treating the tripe with lime-water or lye, the dark surface can be removed by several
scaldings and scrapings ; the tripe should then be left in salted cold water for twenty-four
hours ; after that it will be ready to be washed in fresh water and boiled in salted boiling
water until it begins to look clear, and is tender enough to permit a broomstraw to be run
through it. After tripe has been boiled it can be kept in an earthen jar, covered with
milk and water in equally mixed, with sour milk or buttermilk, or with vinegar which has
been scalded with plenty of spice, and poured upon the tripe while hot.

n6 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

The tripe bought already prepared should be well washed in plenty of cold salted water,
and then boiled until tender in salted boiling water ; after that it can be pickled in scalding
hot spiced vinegar, or kept in milk or buttermilk for several days ; there are many ways of
cooking tripe, and as it is nutritious and digestible as well as cheap, it is an excellent
winter food when some of the meats most generally used are scarce and expensive ; if it
is prepared for the table immediately after the first boiling, it will require rather high
seasoning.

FRIED TRIPE.

Prepare the tripe for the final cooking as directed in the recipe for cleaning tripe, and
then dry it on a clean towel, cut it in pieces about two inches square, and roll it in flour
seasoned with salt and pepper ; peel and grate an onion of medium size for two pounds of
tripe, put it over the fire with quarter of a pound of lard or drippings, and heat them to-
gether ; when the fat begins to smoke put in the tripe, brown it quickly on both sides and
then serve it hot.

MUTTON.

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON WITH CAPER-SAUCE.

Sir Andrew. Faith, I can cut a caper.
Sir Toby. And I can cut the mutton to 't.

TWELFTH NIGHT ; OR, WHAT You WILL.

Cut off the small bone at the end, leaving the meat to hide the joint and lap under ; put
it in a kettle of cold water, and make it boil as soon as possible, then boil very slowly but
steadily until the meat is cooked. For caper-sauce make drawn butter with some of the
boilings ; put into it two dessertspoons of capers and one spoonful of their vinegar. Stir
together, boil up again, and pour the sauce into a hot gravy-boat.

MUTTON OR LAMB CHOPS.

Trim them nicely ; broil over a clear fire and when cooked season with butter, pepper, and
salt ; serve them, slightly lapping one over the other in the form of an oval, with the bones
standing obliquely. It will greatly improve the appearance by putting a frill of white
paper an inch wide around the ends of the bones.

STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON.

Take out the bone and fill the cavity with stuffing made of bread-crumbs, seasoned with
pepper, salt, a little summer savory, two ounces of salt pork chopped fine, and a bit of
butter half the size of an egg. Skewer the ends, sprinkle the mutton with a tablespoon
of salt and half a teaspoon of pepper ; lay it into the dripping-pan with a little water,
and put it in a brisk oven ; when it begins to roast put a little butter over it, and dredge
it lightly with flour. Watch it very closely ; keep an even heat, and baste it thoroughly
every fifteen minutes.

MUTTON. 117

ROAST MUTTON.
Precisely like the preceding, without the stuffing.

ENGLISH MUTTON CHOPS.

Southdown mutton: Trim off the superfluous fat and skin; the chops cut an inch and a
half thick; sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour, put them in a double boiler. Broil over
or before a fire until one side is done, then broil the other side. Do not turn the chops
but once. The fire for chops should not be as hot as for steak; chops can be seasoned
with salt and pepper, wrapped in buttered paper and broiled ten minutes over a hot fire.

LAMB CHOPS SAUTES.

" Use chops from the loin of lamb for sautes; have them cut in accordance with your
desire to have them cooked, three-quarters of an inch thick for medium and an inch for
rather rare; heat a frying-pan; if the chops are fat you don't need any butter; put them
in and brown them quickly, first on one side and then on the other; cook as you like them.
Season them, after they are cooked, with salt and pepper; then, if they are not as good as
broiled chops, it will be because you have not done them right. They are a great deal
better than most broiled chops, because meat cooked over a fire, unless care is used, is
very apt to get smoked. On many accounts it is absolutely impossible to broil."

LAMB STEWED WITH GREEN PEAS.

Cut the scrag or breast of lamb in pieces and put into a stewpan with just enough water
to cover it. Cover it closely and let it stew for twenty minutes. Take off the scum; add
a tablespoon of salt and a quart of shelled peas; cover and let them stew for half an hour;
mix a tablespoon of flour and butter and stir in and let it simmer ten minutes; then serve.
If you mix the flour with the cream it makes it better. Would recommend this recipe to
our friends who keep bachelors' hall. Veal is good cooked in the same way, with half a
dozen small, new potatoes added with peas.

IRISH STEW.

About two pounds of the neck of mutton, four onions, six large potatoes, salt, pepper,
three pints of water and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Cut the mutton in handsome
pieces. Put about half the fat in the stew-pan, with the onions, and stir for eight or ten
minutes over a hot fire; then put in the meat, which sprinkle with the flour, salt and
pepper. Stir ten minutes, and add the water, boiling. Set for one hour where it will
simmer; then add the potatoes, peeled, and cut in quarters. Simmer an hour longer, and
serve. You can cook dumplings with this dish, if you choose. They are a great addition
to all kinds of stews and ragouts.

PORK.

A DISSERTATION UPON ROAST PIG.

i speak not of your grown porkers things between pig and pork those hobbydehoys, but a young and
tender suckling, under a moon old, guiltless as yet of the sty, with no original speck of the amor immunditia-,
the hereditary failing of the first parent, yet manifest his voice yet not broken, but something between a child-
ish treble and a grumble the mild forerunner, or prceludium of a grunt. He must be roasted. I am not ignor-
ant that our ancestors ate them seethed or boiled ; but what a sacrifice of the exterior tegument ! There is no
flavor comparable, I will contend, to that of the crisp, tawny, well-watched, not over-roasted, crackling, as it is
welx called, the very teeth are invited to their share of the pleasure at this banquet in overcoming the coy,
brittle resistance, with the adhesive oleaginous O, call it not fat ! but an indefinable sweetness growing up
to it, the tender blossoming of fat fat cropped in the bud taken in the shoot in the first innocence the
cream and quintessence of the child-pig's yet pure food, the lean, no lean, but a kind of animal manna, or,
rather, fat and lean (if it must be so) so blended and running into each other, that both together make bi-t CT.-J
ambrosian result, or common substance. . . . His sauce should be considered. Decidedly, a few bread-crumbs
done up with his liver and brains, and a dash of mild sage. But banish, dear Mrs. Cook, I beseech you, the
whole onion tribe. Barbecue your whole hogs to your palate, steep them in shalots, stuff them out with plan-
tations of the rank and guilly garlic ; you cannot poison them, or make them stronger than they are, but
consider, he is a weakling a flower. Charles Lamb.

A DELICATE ROAST PIG.

Lay a nicely-dressed pig in a tub of cold water all night; in the morning change the
water, and let it remain until it is time to roast it ; then wipe it dry, rub the inside well with
sage, cayenne and salt mixed, and stuff it with a dressing made of bread-crumbs, salt pork
chopped fine, pepper, salt, sweet marjoram, and an egg. It should be roasted on a spit be-
fore the fire ; but, lacking convenience for this mode, the pig must be placed (the feet
turned under) on a rack in the dripping-pan with some water, in which are some sprigs of
sage and marjoram tied in muslin. Keep it well floured until half done ; then take it out,
wipe off the 1 flour, return it to the oven, and baste well with butter, repeating this several
times until the pig is roasted. Serve on a large platter with a potato or small ear of un-
husked green corn in its mouth. The herbs may be taken from the dripping-pan, the
gravy thickened with flour and seasoned to taste with pepper and salt. Then serve in a
boat. Allow three hours for roasting.

BAKED FRESH PORK.

If the skin is left on the pork, as it is in some markets, scrape it with a dull knife, wash
it thoroughly with a wet cloth, and score it in little squares ; if the skin has been removed
trim oft some of the superfluous fat ; using a sharp, thin knife cut out the chine or back
bone, disjointing it from the ends of the ribs, so that the meat may be carved with ease ;

118

PORK. 119

CORNED HAM, BAKED.

Choose a perfectly sweet corned ham, testing it by running a sharp, thin knife-blade
close to the bone, and making sure that the odor is pleasant ; let the ham stand over night
in enough cold water to cover it ; in the morning trim off all bruised and torn portions,
inclose the ham in a dough made of rye or wheat flour and water, lay it in a large pan,
and bake it in a moderate oven, half an hour to a pound ; when the ham is done remove
the paste, and the skin, if this is desired ; dust the ham with cracker or bread crumbs, sea-
soned with salt or pepper, and quickly brown the crumbs in a hot oven ; when the ham is
done put a frill of white paper around the bone, and serve it hot or cold ; when the ham is
served hot, a brown gravy or sauce usually accompanies it ; pickles of any kind, olives, or
cold slaw are good with cold ham.

BROILED LIVER.

Cut in slices, dip the slices first in butter melted, then lightly in flour, and broil eignt
or ten minutes.

PICNIC SANDWICHES.

Cut thin slices from a tender, cold roast leg of lamb. Lay the slices together and cut
them into very small bits. Lay them on thin slices of fresh bread and butter ; spread the
corresponding slice with thick mint sauce, and put the two together.

DELMONICO RECEPTION SANDWICHES.

Two pounds of cold, lean, boiled ham, and one boiled beef tongue ; chop and mince
them up very fine ; season with a good pinch of ground cloves, and the same of black
pepper. Work two pounds of the very best butter into a softish mass, and blend with it
half an ounce of ground dry mustard or a dessertspoon of curry powder, and the minced
ham and tongue, and work all together into a paste. Cut the bread, which should be of
the very best quality, into thin slices, spread each slice liberally with the meat paste, put
together, and, with a sharp knife, cut off the crusts so as to make the pieces perfectly
square, then cut them from corner to corner, crosswise, into four, so as to make small
triangular pieces of each square. Build these up on dishes in fancy pyramidical forms.
Turkey or chicken sandwiches can be made by taking the meat of a cold roast turkey or a
pair of roasted chickens and an equal quantity of cold boiled beef tongue ; chop them up
into very small pieces, and then pound them in a mortar, with a lump of butter, to a paste.
Season this with a little cayenne pepper and salt. Spread this paste on thin slices of fine
Vienna bread, cut square, put together, and cut crosswise into triangles.

SALADS.

To see if I can eat grass, or pick a sallet another while, which is not
amiss to cool a man's stomach this hot weather. And I think this word
" sallet" was born to do me good : for many a time, but for a sallet,
my brain-pan had been cleft with a brown bill ; for many a time, when
I have been dry, and bravely marching, it hath served me instead of
a quart pot to drink in : and now the word " sallet " must serve me to
feed on.

SECOND PART OF KING HENRY VI.

CHICKEN SALAD.

Cold roasted or boiled chicken free of skin, fat and bones. Place on a board, and cut
in long, thin strips, and cut these into dice. Place in an earthen bowl; there should
be two quarts, and season with four tablespoons of vinegar, two of oil, one teaspoon of
salt, and one-half of a teaspoon of pepper. Set it away in a cold place for two or three
hours. Scrape and wash enough of the tender white celery to make one quart. Cut this,
with a sharp knife, in pieces about half an inch thick. Put these in the ice-chest until
serving time. Make the mayonnaise dressing. Mix the chicken and celery together, and
add half of the dressing. Arrange in a salad bowl or on a flat dish, and pour the remain-
der of the dressing over it. Garnish with white celery leaves ; or, have a jelly border, and
arrange the salad in this. Half celery and half lettuce is often used for chicken salad. If.
when the chicken or fowl is cooked, it is allowed to cool in the water in which it is boiled,
it will be juicier and tenderer than if taken from the water as soon as done.

LOBSTER SALAD.

Cut up and season the lobster the same as chicken, break the leaves from a head of
lettuce one by one, and wash them singly in a large pan of cold water. Put them iu
a pan of ice-water for about ten minutes, and then shake in a wire basket, to free them
of water. Place them in the ice-chest until serving time. When ready to serve, put two
or three leaves together in the form of a shell, and arrange these shells on a salad dish.
Mix one-half of the mayonnaise dressing with the lobster. Put a tablespoon of this in
each cluster of leaves. Finish with a tablespoon of the dressing on each spoonful of
lobster. This is an exceedingly inviting dish. Another method is to cut or tear the
leaves rather coarse, and mix with the lobster. Garnish the border of the dish with whole
leaves. There should be two-thirds lobster to one-third lettuce.

POTATO SALAD.

Peel and boil one pint of potatoes, mash them through a colander, letting them fall
lightly on a platter ; while the potatoes are being boiled, wash and shave enough from a
head of firm, white cabbage to fill a pint bowl ; boil three eggs hard, remove the shells,

1 20

SALADS. 12 c

and chop the eggs fine ; chop one large pickled pepper fine, or use in its place a large
pickled cucumber cnopped fine and seasoned highly with cayenne ; mix together two
tablespoons of vinegar, six tablespoons of good salad oil, one level teaspoon of salt, and
half a saltspoon of pepper ; when the potatoes are ready, mix all the ingredients together
quickly and lightly, put them into a salad bowl, and serve the salad at once.

SHRIMP SALAD.

Peel the boiled shrimps, and when thoroughly cold arrange them in a circle upon leaves
of fresh lettuce. Pour a mayonnaise sauce in the centre, and serve at once. Sometimes
a tablespoon of chopped parsley is added to the dressing for this salad.

SALAD DRESSING.

OIL SALAD DRESSING.

Put in a bowl the yolks of two raw eggs, one level teaspoon of mustard, two tablespoons
of vinegar, quarter of a saltspoon of pepper, and as much salad oil as is required to make
about half a pint of dressing.

EGG SALAD DRESSING.

Mix thoroughly together, by beating, four tablespoons of vinegar, one heaping table-
spoon of moist sugar, and the yolk of one raw egg.

MAYONNAISE DRESSING.

A tablespoon mustard, one cup of sugar, one-tenth teaspoon of cayenne, one teaspoon of
salt, the yolks of three uncooked eggs, the juice of one-half of a lemon, one-quarter cup of
vinegar, one pint of best olive oil, and one cup of whipped cream. Beat the yolks and
dry ingredients until light and thick. Place the bowl in which the dressing is made in a
pan of ice-water during the beating. Add only a little of the oil at a time. When the
dressing becomes so thick that the beater turns hard, add a little of the vinegar. When
the last of the oil and of the vinegar has been added, the dressing should be very thick.
Now add the lemon juice and whipped cream, and place on ice till needed for use. The
cream may be omitted without injury.

FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.

Mix half a saltspoon of pepper with one of salt ; add three tablespoons of olive oil, and
one even tablespoon of onion, scraped fine ; then one tablespoon of vinegar ; when well
mixed, pour the mixture over your salad and stir all till well mingled. The merit of a
salad is that it should be cool, fresh, and crisp. For vegetables, use only the delicate
white stalks of celery, the small heart leaves of lettuce.

SAUCES.

" It is a desideratum in works that treat de re culinarid, that we have no rationale of sauces, or theory of
mixed flavors : as to show why cabbage is reprehensible with roast beef, laudable with bacon ; and why
the haunch of mutton seeks the alliance of current jelly, the shoulder civilly declineth it ; why loin of veal
(a pretty problem), being unctuous, seeketh the adventitious lubricity of melted butter, and why the same part
in pork, not more oleaginous, abhorreth from it ; why the French bean sympathizes with the flesh of deer ;
why salt fish points to parsnip, brawn makes a dead set at mustard ; why salmon (a strong sapor per se) forti-
fieth its condition with the mighty lobster-sauce, whose embraces are fatal to the delicater relish of the turbot ;
why oysters in death rise up against the contamination of brown sugar, while they are posthumously amorous
of vinegar ; why the sour mango and the sweet jam by turns court and are accepted by the compliable mutton-
hash, she not yet decidedly declaring for either. We are as yet but in the empirical stage of cookery. We
feed ignorantly, and want to be able to give a reason of the relish that is in us ; so that, if Nature should
furnish us with a new meat, or be prodigally pleased to restore the phoenix, upon a given flavor, we might be
able to pronounce instantly, on philosophical principles, what the sauce to it should be, what the curious
adjuncts."

ANCHOVY SAUCE.

For a pint of anchovy sauce put over the fire in a saucepan a tablespoon each of butter
and flour and stir them until they are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a pint of
boiling water a teaspoon of anchovy paste, quarter of a saltspoon of pepper, and a pal-
atable seasoning of salt ; stir the sauce over the fire until it boils and is perfectly smooth,
and then serve it in a sauce-bowl.

Potted anchovies, or those packed in small glass jars, can be used instead of anchovy
paste, but they must first be reduced to a smooth pulp by pounding them in a mortar, and
removing all the bones ; a larger proportion of this paste will be required for the sauce
than of the anchovy paste, which is put up in small blue china jars ; enough must be used
to properly season and color the sauce.

APPLE SAUCE.

Pare, core, and slice half a dozen juicy apples, and cook them till tender, along with the
yellow rind of a lemon, in an earthenware jar placed in a pot of boiling water. The pot
should be closely covered, and care taken that none of the water enters the jar containing
the apples. When softened and perfectly tender remove the lemon peel, and beat the
apples to a smooth pulp, along with a little butter, sugar, and a little grated nutmeg.

BECHAMEL SAUCE.

Chop one pound of lean veal and half a pound of lean ham in small pieces, a half-dozen
mushrooms, and one small onion sliced, two cloves, one blade of mace, a pinch of thyme,
and the same of sweet marjoram, and two tablespoons of butter ; add one pint and a half

122

SAUCES. 123

of white stock or gravy, and stew all gently for an hour and a half ; then mix some of the
gravy with a teacup of flour, make very smooth, and add to it a pint of rich cream. Add
this to the sauce, let it boil for a quarter of an hour, stirring constantly, then strain and
season with salt and pepper.

BUTTER A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.

Quarter of a pound of fresh butter, one and a half tablespoons of parsley, chopped fine,
half a teaspoon of salt, one pinch of white pepper, and the juice of two lemons. Cream
the butter perfectly, beat in the salt, pepper and lemon juice, add the parsley, and serve.'
If preferred, a tablespoon of vinegar and a tablespoon of mixed mustard may be added.

CURRY SAUCE.

One tablespoon of butter, one of flour, one teaspoon of curry powder, one slice of onion,
one large cup of stock, salt and pepper to taste. Cut the onion fine, and fry brown in
butter. Add the flour and curry powder. Stir for one minute, add the stock, and season
with the salt and pepper. Simmer five minutes ; then strain and serve. This sauce can
be served with a broil or saute" of meat or fish.

CELERY SAUCE.

Wash and cut into inch pieces a fresh young head of celery, and boil it till tender in
veal stock or in milk and water. Season this with white pepper, nutmeg and salt, and
thicken it with a mixture of butter and flour. Another simple celery sauce consists of
drawn butter, made with a decoction of celery seeds, and seasoned as above.

CAPER SAUCE.

Caper sauce is made by mixing a gill of capers, with some of their pickle-vinegar, into
the drawn butter prepared as follows :

DRAWN BUTTER.

' ' When I made my first attempts at becoming a cook it seemed as if every recipe for certain dishes ended
with these words, ' Serve with drawn-butter sauce. ' How to make it I did not know, and I dared not ask.
I felt that if I did, every older housewife would regard me as we used to the dull boy in school who begged us
to tell him how many eighths there were in a whole, and how we knew. ' Intuitive knowledge ' of anything
pertaining to keeping house was denied me, but after many experiments rules were evolved, and have never
failed to give satisfaction."

Take two large tablespoons of butter and one tablespoon of flour, and nearly one cup of
milk ; before putting in the milk, mix the butter and flour thoroughly with a wooden
spoon ; then add the milk or the same quantity of water, a teaspoon of salt and a little
white pepper. Set this over the fire, and stir it continually till nearly boiling. This is
melted butter, or drawn-butter, as it is called in the language of the kitchen ; being the basis
of a number of sauces, its preparation is important.

124 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

EGG SAUCE.

Two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and added to hot drawn butter. This is an excel-
lent sauce for fish. It is also good on potatoes, and one of which children are very fond.

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE.

Half a teacup of butter, the juice of half a lemon, the yolks of two eggs, a speck of
cayenne, half a cup of boiling water, half a teaspoon of salt. Beat the butter to a cream ;
then add the yolks, one by one, the lemon juice, pepper and salt. Place the bowl in
which these are mixed in a saucepan of boiling water. Beat with an egg-beater until the
sauce begins to thicken, it will take about a minute, and add the boiling water, beating all
the time. When like a soft custard it is done. The bowl, if thin, must be kept over the
fire only about five minutes, provided the water boils all the time. The sauce should be
poured around meat or fish when it is on the dish.

LOBSTER SAUCE.

One small lobster, four tablespoons of butter, two of flour, one-fifth of a tablespoon of
cayenne, two tablespoons of lemon juice, one pint of boiling water. Cut the meat into
dice. Pound the "coral" with one tablespoon of butter. Rub the remaining flour and
butter to a smooth paste. Add the water and pounded " coral," and butter and flour paste,
and the seasoning ; simmer five minutes, and then strain on the lobster. Boil up once and
serve.

MINT SAUCE.

Fresh young leaves of mint finely minced and mixed with vinegar and sugar.

OYSTER SAUCE.

Boil half a pint of small oysters with their liquor in one pint of water until the flavor is
well extracted, then strain, pressing the juice well from the oysters ; put in a pint of small
oysters, and stew until puffed ; take them out, skim well, and make drawn butter by adding
flour and butter ; put back the oysters, and when thoroughly heated, serve.

PARSLEY SAUCE.

Boil till tender a bunch of well washed and picked parsley, remove the larger stalks
mince the leaves finely, and stir them into hot drawn butter, made as above.

ROBERT SAUCE.

Two cups of stock, two small onions, four tablespoons of butter, one heaping tablespoon
of flour, one teaspoon of dry mustard, one of sugar, a speck of cayenne, two tablespoons of
vinegar, salt. Cut the onions into dice, and put on with the butter. Stir until they begin
to color ; then add the flour, and stir until brown. As soon as it boils, add the stock and
other ingredients, and simmer five minutes. Skim and serve.

SAUCES. 125

SAUCE FOR STEAK.

Equal parts of red wine catsup, a small piece of butter, a little pepper, a tablespoon of
shallot vinegar; stir altogether in a small saucepan on the fire and pour it very hot over
the steak. It is also good with mutton chops.

SAUCE A LA TARTARE.

Chop an onion, two shallots, a little parsley and tarragon, and a few capers very fine;
two yolks of hard-boiled eggs rubbed down to a paste with a tablespoon of water. Mix
all these well together, and add a dessertspoon of tarragon and one of plain vinegar; beat
it well with a wooden spoon, adding by degrees a spoonful of the best olive oil and mus-
tard to your taste. This is an excellent sauce with broiled fowl, grouse, or with cold
meats of all kinds.

TOMATO SAUCE.

Put in a stew-pan a quart can of tomatoes, two cloves, a sprig of thyme, two sprigs of
parsley, half a bay leaf, three peppercorns, three allspice, two slices of carrot, one small
onion, and boil about twenty minutes; then strain through a sieve. Melt in another pan
one and a half ounce of butter, and as it bubbles, sprinkle in half an ounce flour; stir
till well cooked. Mix with the tomato pulp, and it is ready for the table.

TARRAGON VINEGAR.

Fill a pickle bottle one-quarter or one-third full of sprigs of tarragon, or merely with the
leaves picked off the stalks. Fill the bottle with good vinegar, and stop it down with a
good cork. Let it stand a few days to make a cold infusion, and it is fit for use. No
salt, spice or boiling are needed. The leaves are so full of their peculiar flavor that, after
the first brewing of vinegar has been used, a second may be poured over them. This
simple relish is exceedingly useful to have in store.

PICKLES.

P. CUCUMBER PICKLES.

Make a brine of one gallon of water and one teacup of fine salt. Pour the brine hot
over the cucumbers for nine mornings, then rinse in cold water, and scald in alum water ;
put them in vinegar with spices, and nearly boil. Add peppers and onions if liked.

CHILI SAUCE.

Thirty tomatoes, three large onions, three peppers, one tablespoon allspice, cloves, cin-
namon, two nutmegs, two tablespoons of salt, one quart of vinegar, one cup of sugar.
Chop onions and peppers very fine, Cook tomatoes some first. Mix thoroughly.

126 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

PICKLED LEMONS.

Take eight lemons, thick skins, one-half pound of fine salt, two quarts of vinegary
one-quarter of an ounce each of cloves, nutmeg, mace, and cayenne, two ounces of mus-
tard seed, and a small onion. Put all this in a muslin bag, the whole to be put in a tight,
covered jar. Set in a kettle of boiling water and let it remain till the lemons are tender.
It is better to keep them three months before using.

MUSTARD PICKLE.

One peck of green tomatoes, half as many onions, three or four cauliflowers ; boil until
tender ; slice, cover with salt, and drain over night. Add one and a half boxes of mus-
tard, two or three red peppers ; cover with vinegar, and simmer all day.

GRAPES SPICED.

Five pounds of fruit, four pounds of brown sugar, one pint of vinegar, one tablespoon
cloves, allspice, a little pepper ; cook slowly three or four hours.

PICKLED PEACHES.

Take as much vinegar as will cover the quantity of peaches you have. After it has
boiled sufficiently, sweeten it to your taste ; put in your spices, cloves, cinnamon, or mace.
Boil together for a little while, then put in your peaches ; peeled or with the skins on, as
you prefer. Boil for fifteen minutes, or until they are tender. Take them out, and boil
the vinegar down until it is strong enough to keep them. Put them in a cool place.

PICKLED LILY.

Three pecks ripe tomatoes, three pecks green tomatoes, five heads of cabbage, one dozen
onions, one ripe pepper, one green pepper, half a pound of celery, all chopped fine. Cover
with brine two days, drain off, cover with vinegar, three pints of brown sugar. Scald an
hour ; add one cup grated horseradish, two tablespoons white mustard seed, one tablespoon
of cloves, two tablespoons of allspice, two of ginger, and one tablespoon of mustard.
Cover close and put away for a month before using.

TOMATO KETCHUP.

Boil ripe tomatoes one hour ; strain through a sieve. To one quart of juice add one
tablespoon cinnamon, one tablespoon black pepper, one-half tablespoon cayenne, one table-
spoon ground mustard, one-quarter cup salt, two onions chopped fine. Boil three hours.
Then to each quart of juice add one pint cider vinegar and boil half an hour longer.
Bottle hot.

VEGETABLES.

Whatever advantages, real or imaginary, may attend the consumption of raw vegetables, it is abundantly
evident that peril must beset the use of this description of food, unless the articles eaten are most thoroughly
cleansed. Asparagus, lettuce, and especially water-cresses, spinach, and all greens used for boiling or salads,
-.should be scrupulously washed, and nothing less than the most painstaking brushing under water can cleanse
them. Summer vegetables should be perfectly fresh, cooked the same day they are gathered, if possible.
Look them over well, cutting out all decayed or unripe parts. Lay them when peeled in cold water for some
time before cooking. Always let the water boil before putting them in. Cook thoroughly, raw vegetables are
neither good nor fashionable. Drain well, serve hot.

Potatoes keep best buried in sand or earth. They should never be wetted till they are washed for cooking.
If you have them in the cellar, see that they are well covered with matting or old carpet, as the frost injures
them greatly.

PUREE.

As there is no English word to express a substance that has been rubbed through the colander, or pounded
to a pulp, the French -word, puree is used. Where cream is used with vegetables, mu"k slightly thickened with
an additional bit of butter may be substituted.

ASPARAGUS.

Large full-grown asparagus is the best. Before you begin to prepare it for cooking, set
on the fire a pot with plenty of water, and sprinkle into it a spoonful of salt. The
asparagus should be all of the same size, reject the woody or lower portions, and scraping
the white part which remains. Throw it into cold water as you scrape them. Then tie
them up in small bundles with bass or tape, as twine will cut them to pieces. If very
young and fresh, it is well to tie them in a piece of coarse net to protect the top. When the
water is boiling fast put in the asparagus for twenty or forty minutes, according to age.
When it is nearly done boiling, toast two or three slices of bread, cutting off the crust,
and dip it in the asparagus water in the pot, butter and lay in in a hot dish. When you
take up the asparagus, drain, unbind the bundle, and heap it upon the toast, the stocks all
one way, with bits of butter between. Serve with drawn butter.

BURR ARTICHOKES.

Strip off the outer leaves, and cut the stocks close to the bottom. Wash well, and let
tnem lie two or three hours in cold water. Put them in a pot of boiling water, the stock-
ends uppermost, with an inverted plate upon them to keep them down. They must boil
steadily from two to three hours, or until very tender ; take care to replenish the pot with
additional boiling water as it is wanted. When tender all through, drain them, and pla .:e
whole on a napkin; serve with drawn butter. In eating them take off the leaves y.e
by one, dip the large end in the drawn butter, and eat only the soft, pulpy part.

197

HOME DISSERTATIONS.

BOSTON BAKED BEANS.

" For many generations this has been New England's Sunday dish. The little bean-pots bustling to the
bakery Saturday evening and returning the next day in quietness and solemnity for the Sunday dinner, have
become a part of history. So many associations cluster around this little crock, that even were its place sup-
plied by a new invention better adapted to the purpose, we could not abandon it. But there is nothing better,
nor so good. It is broad and low, the mouth about two-thirds the diameter of the crock, but wide enough to
admit the piece of pork, put in endwise, then turned. It is easily covered, which is a great advantage, as it is
highly important to prevent the escape of the steam and to preserve the flavor of the beans."

First obtain a Boston bean-pot and some small white beans ; the small beans are the
jbest. Pick over and wash a quart of beans, pour over them a quart of tepid water, and let
Jthem soak all night ; in the morning take them out of the water, and put them in a kettle
jwith two quarts of water, and boil half or three-quarters of an hour, or until the skin
begins to crack ; skim them out of the water, and put them in the " bean-pot" ; score a
pound of salt pork, part fat and part lean, in small squares, and put it in the centre of the
beans, sinking it to the rind ; pour a quart of hot water over it, add one and a half table-
spoons of molasses, cover the pot, and bake slowly three hours.

LIMA BEANS.

Put one quart of shelled beans into a pan of cold water, and let them remain an hour ;
put them in boiling water, more than enough to cover them ; when tender pour off
the water ; add two ounces of butter and half a gill of cream ; season with pepper and
salt ; let them simmer a moment, then serve. All shell beans may be cooked in this way-

STRING BEANS.

With a sharp knife snip off the ends into small pieces about an inch long, removing the
strings as you break them. Boil them until tender in plain salt and water. When tender
remove with a skimmer, and season with a little butter, salt and pepper ; or, after they are
drained, return to the saucepan, add a little sweet cream or milk, and heat to boiling.

BOILED BEETS.

Wash, but do not touch with a knife before they are boiled. If cut while raw, they
bleed themselves pale in the hot water. Boil until tender ; if full-grown, at least two
hours. When done put them into cold water for a moment ; then rub off the skins, slice
Around if large, split if young, butter well. Salt and pepper to taste. A good way is to
slice them upon a hot dish, mix a tablespoon of melted butter, with four or five of vinegar,
pepper and salt, heat to boiling, and pour over the beets. The cold ones left over, pour
vinegar over them, and use as pickles.

CARROTS.

Wash and scrape them well. If large, cut them in two, three, or four pieces. Put
them in boiling water, with a little salt in it. Full-grown carrots will require three hours

VEGETABLES. 129

boiling ; smaller ones two hours, and young ones an hour. Try them with a fork, and
when thoroughly tender, take them up and dry them in a cloth. Divide them in pieces
and split them, or cut them in slices. Season with butter, pepper and salt. They should
accompany boiled beef or mutton.

STEWED CARROTS.

Boil one and a quarter pound of carrots. When tender, slice very thin in a saucepan,
add two ounces of butter, stir two teaspoons of- salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper in two
gills of cream, and pour it over the carrots ; let them stew fifteen minutes ; then put them
into a vegetable dish, and leave the saucepan with the cream on the stove ; when it boils,
stir in the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and pour over the carrots.

BOILED CAULIFLOWER.

Pick off the outside leaves ; cut the stalk close to the flowers ; lay it in cold water for
half an hour ; if very large, quarter it ; put it in boiling water ; salt a little ; cook until
tender ; drain well ; place it on a hot dish ; pour over plenty of drawn butter ; remove
it from the water as soon as it is done ; serve quickly ; it darkens while standing.

CABBAGE WITH SALT PORK.

Carefully wash a head of white cabbage, tear the leaves apart, and let it lay for half an
hour in plenty of cold salted water ; meantime cut a pound of fat salt pork in inch pieces,
put it over the fire in two quarts of cold water, and let the water gradually heat and boil ;
in half an hour put in the cabbage, after cutting it in rather small pieces, and boil it
steadily for half an hour ; then drain off the water, see that the pork and cabbage are
palatably seasoned, and serve them together. An onion quartered, and put on top of the
cabbage while boiling, will prevent its being indigestible.

HOT SLAW.

Mix together four tablespoons of vinegar, one of sugar, and the yolk of one raw egg ;
add this dressing to as much cabbage as it will moisten, season the cabbage palatably with
salt and pepper; put it over the fire in a covered saucepan, and let it come to the boiling
point; when the cabbage begins to boil remove it from the fire, and serve it hot.

COLD SLAW.

Remove the outer green leaves from a firm head of white cabbage, cut the cabbage
through the centre, cut out the tough stalk, put the cabbage into a large pan of salted cold
water and let it stand for at least half an hour; then drain it, shave it on a cabbage-cutter,
or chop it rather fine, and dress it with any of the salad dressings for which recipes are
given.

130 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

RED CABBAGE AND APPLES, PENN. STYLE.

Wash a medium-sized head of firm, red cabbage, shave it rather fine, put it into a sauce-
pan with a tablespoon each of butter and sugar, a gill of vinegar and a level teaspoon each
of salt, whole cloves and peppercorns; set the saucepan on the back part of the stove,
where its contents will steam gently, and let it cook; peel, quarter and core half a dozen
tart apples, lay them on the top of the cabbage, and continue the cooking until the cabbage is
tender; when the cabbage is done drain off the liquid portion, and make a sauce by boiling
it with a tablespoon each of butter and flour which have been stirred together cold until
they form a smooth paste; slip the cabbage out of the saucepan upon a deep dish without
disturbing the apples; pour the sauce over them, and serve the dish hot, as a vegetable.
The same kind of dish can be prepared with less danger of burning by baking it in the
oven and putting the ingredients into an earthen jar or disn.

BOILED GREEN CORN ON COB.

Choose young sugar corn, full grown, but not hard, test with the nail. When the grain
is pierced, the milk should escape in a jet, and not be thick. Clean by stripping off the
outer leaves, turn back the innermost covering carefully, pick off every thread of silk, and
recover the ear with the thin husk that grew nearest it, tie at the top with a bit of thread,
put into boiling water salted, and cook fast from twenty minutes to a half ar. hour, in pro-
portion to size and age. Cut off the stocks close to the cob, and send whole to table
wrapped in a clean napkin.

STEWED GREEN CORN.

Cut from the cob, and stew fifteen minutes in boiling water. Turn off most of this,
cover with cold milk, and stew until very tender, adding before you take it up, a large
lump of butter cut into bits and rolled in flour. Season with pepper and salt to taste, boil
five minutes and serve.

CELERY.

Scrape and wash well, and let it lie in cold water til} shortly before it goes to the table;
then dry it in a cloth, trim it, and split down the stocks almost to the bottom, leaving on a
few green leaves. Send it to the table in a celery glass, with a little cold water and bits of
ice. Or the white parts may be chopped fine and served with a salad dressing.

CUCUMBERS.

Pare from end to end, and lay in ice-water an hour. Wipe them and slice thin ; put
them in cold water well salted for a few moments, turn the water off; season with pepper,
salt, vinegar and oil, if you wish putting some pieces of ice between them, add thin slices
of onions if desired. Cucumbers should be gathered while the dew is upon them, and eaten
the same day. Leave them in a cool place until you are ready to pare them.

VEGETABLES. 131

EGG PLANT FRIED.

Pare and cut in slices half an inch thick; sprinkle with salt; cover, and let stand with a
weight upon them for an hour. Rinse in clear cold water; wipe each slice dry; dip first
in beaten egg, then in rolled cracker or bread crumbs, season with pepper and salt, and fry
brown in butter.

STUFFED EGG PLANT.

Parboil to take off their bitterness. Then slit each one down the side, and take out
the seeds, fill the cavity with a stuffing made of grated bread-crumbs, butter, minces
sweet herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Bake and serve with drawn
butter.

TO BOIL ONIONS.

Peel medium-sized white onions and let them stand in cold water one hour; then put
them into boiling water, and boil fifteen minutes; pour out this water and put in more boil-
ing water, and cook till soft; then pour off the water and put in a little milk; season with
butter and salt, and let them cook in the milk about five minutes; thicken the gravy with
a little flour and water. This way of cooking will take away the strong taste of the onions
and make them tender outside as well as inside.

BAKED ONIONS.

Peel large onions, and boil one hour in plenty of water, slightly salted. Butter a shallow
dish or a deep plate, and arrange the onions in it. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, put a
teaspoon of butter in the centre of each onion, and cover lightly with crumbs. Bake slowly
one hour. Serve with cream sauce.

BOILED PARSNIPS.

If young, scrape before cooking. If old, pare carefully, and if large, split. Put into
boiling water, salted, and boil, if small and tender, from half to three-quarters of an hour.
If full grown, more than an hour. When tender, drain and slice lengthwise, butter well,
and serve very hot.

FRIED PARSNIPS.

Prepare as for boiled parsnips, cut in thick slices lengthwise. Dredge with flour, dip in
a batter and fry in hot dripping or lard, turning when one side is brown. Drain off every
drop of fat; pepper and serve hot.

PARSNIP FRITTERS.

Boil tender, mash smooth and fine, picking out the woody bits. For three large pars-
nips allow two eggs, one cup of rich milk, one tablespoon of butter, one teaspoon of salt,
three tablespoons of flour. Beat the eggs light, stir in the mashed parsnips, beating hard,
then the butter and flour, next the milk, lastly the salt. Fry as fritters or as griddle cakes.

132 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

GREEN PEAS.

Green peas are unfit for eating after they become hard and yellowish; but they are better
nearly full grown than when very small and young. They should be laid in cold water as
soon as they are shelled. It will require about a half hour to boil them soft. When quite
done, drain them, mix with them a piece of butter and a little pepper. A little cream or
good milk added after they are drained and returned to the stew-pan and allowed to
simmer a few moments is liked by some. Peas may be greatly improved by boiling with
them two or three lumps of loaf-sugar.

BAKED POTATOES.

To bake potatoes quickly, pour boiling water over them and let them stand a minute or
so before putting them into the oven. The excellence of baked potatoes depends upon
eating them as soon as done, and not before. They are worthless till cooked, and dry
rapidly so soon as baked through.

BOILED POTATOES.

Water enough to cover the potatoes put on the fire to boil. Then cut a ring around the
potatoes to make them " mealy," and to render easy the removal of the remaining sections
of skin. Put the potatoes into the water, when it begins to boil, or a little before, salt
should be added liberally, a tablespoon to a quart or so of water. a Let them boil about
fifteen minutes; the time, however, depends upon the size of the potatoes, and the season
too, because later in the year potatoes take longer to boil, as the fibre is a little tougher
and harder. Try them with a fork. If it pierces them easily pour off the water. Do not
let them boil until they break open. Cover them with a dry towel, and set the pan con-
taining them on the back of the stove, where the potatoes will keep warm without burning,
until they become mealy, which will be in five or perhaps ten minutes." A brick should
be placed on the stove for the tin to rest upon. Potatoes can be kept hot in that way for
a couple of hours. Peeled potatoes should be boiled in the same way. The best of the
potato is just under the skin; therefore, pare very thin.

BROILED POTATOES.

Cut boiled potatoes in slices, put the slices on the gridiron to broil. Have ready a
heated platter, with melted butter to put them in. Broil quickly, season with pepper and
salt, and serve hot, and as soon after broiling as possible.

DUCHESS POTATOES.

Boiled potatoes cold, cut into cubes. Season with salt and pepper, and dip in melted
butter and slightly in flour. Arrange them on a baking sheet, and bake fifteen minutes in>
a quick oven. Serve very hot.

VEGETABLES. 133

LYONNAISE POTATOES.

Three tablespoons of butter put in a frying-pan, and when the butter is melted, a table-
spoon of chopped onion fried in it till it is of a pale straw-color, then add a quart of
cooked potatoes, sliced and thoroughly seasoned with salt and pepper. When they are
hot a tablespoon of chopped parsely added and cooked two minutes. The onions may be
omitted.

SARATOGA POTATOES.

Pare the potatoes, slice them thin as possible on a potatoe-cutter, leave them for an
hour, in cold water, then dry them in a towel. Have a deep kettle of lard for frying them;
when it is hot cover the surface with the dried slices, sprinkle a little salt over them, turn
them with a skimmer, and when done lay them on a double brown paper in the oven
open. Fry them all in this way, putting them upon the paper as they come from the lard.
They are eaten both hot and cold, for breakfast, lunch, tea, sometimes with a fork, but
oftener with the fingers.

STEWED POTATOES.

Pare, quarter, and soak in cold water an hour. Stew in enough salted water to
cover them. Before taking up, and when they are breaking to pieces, drain off the water,
and pour in a cup of milk. Boil three minutes, stirring well; put in a lump of butter the
size of an egg, a little salt and a pinch of pepper; thicken slightly with flour, boil up well
and turn into a covered dish. This is an excellent family dish. Children are usually fond
of it, and it is very wholesome. Cold boiled potatoes may be served in the same manner,
and are excellent.

ROASTED SWEET POTATOES.

Sweet, as well as Irish potatoes, are very good for picnic luncheon, roasted in hot ashes.
This, it will be remembered, was the dinner General Marion set before the British officer
as " quite a feast, I assure you, sir; we don't often fare so well as to have sweet potatoes
and salt." The feast was cleansed from ashes by the negro orderly's shirt-sleeve, and
served upon a natural trencher of pine bark.

SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT FRIED.

Having scraped the salsify roots, and washed them in cold water, parboil them. Take
them out, drain them, cut them in small pieces and fry them in butter.

STEWED SALSIFY.

Stew slowly till quite tender, and then serve with melted butter. Or it may first be
boiled, then grated, and made into cakes to be fried in butter. Salsify must not be left
exposed to the air, or it will turn blackish.

134 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

NEW SPINACH WITH POACHED EGGS.

Trim off the roots and tough stalks of half a peck of new spinach, wash it in plenty of
cold salted water until it is quite free from sand, put it over the fire in salted boiling water
enough to cover it, and boil it fast for three minutes or longer, until it is just tender; do
not allow it to become soft and watery; drain the spinach, throw it into a large pan of
cold water until it is cool, then chop it very fine, or rub it through a colander with a
potato masher; put it again over the fire to heat, with a palatable seasoning of salt and
pepper; while the spinach is being heated poach half a dozen eggs soft, and when it is
dished lay them upon it, and serve the dish hot.

SUMMER SQUASH OR CYMLINGS.

If the nail presses easily through the skin, do not remove it, or the seeds, which should
be done if not young and tender. If quite small the cymlings may be cooked whole.
Summer squash should be steamed and not boiled, as it will be less watery if steamed.
When tender mash soft in a colander; then put them in a stew-pan, add butter, salt, and a
little cream. When very hot serve.

BAKED HUBBARD SQUASH.

Wipe a squash with a wet towel, cut it in two-inch pieces, remove the thin outer skin
and the seeds, but not the soft pulp in which the seeds are imbedded; put the pieces of
squash in layers in a buttered earthen dish, seasoning each layer lightly with salt and
pepper; midway of the dish, and on the upper layer of squash, put a tablespoon each of
butter and sugar; place the dish in a hot oven and bake the squash for an hour; serve it
hot, as a vegetable, in the dish in which it was baked.

WINTER SQUASH.

Pare it, take out the seeds, cut it in pieces, and steam it till quite soft. When tender,
mash it with a little butter, pepper and salt.

SUCCOTASH.

Ten ears of green corn, one pint of Lima beans, or you can substitute for the latter
string or buttered beans (have a third more corn than beans). Cut the corn from the cob
and put it into boiling water, stew gently with the beans until tender, using as little water
as possible; pour off nearly all the water, stir in a lump of butter, a teaspoon of flour wet
with cold water, pepper and salt to taste. Milk may be added if you choose.

BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES.

Choose large, uniform size ripe tomatoes, remove the stem, and with a sharp knife cut
off a slice from the stem end ; take out the core, place the tomatoes in a baking-dish and
fill the orifice with bread-crumbs seasoned with butter, salt, pepper, a little sugar, and

VEGETABLES. 135

grated onion if liked ; replace the tops and bake in a slow oven. When done remove
them very carefully from the baking-dish and arrange on a hot dish; garnish with sprigs
of parsley.

BROILED TOMATOES.

Select three large Florida tomatoes; split each in two, strew a little cracker-crumbs over
the cut part, brush a little butter over all, broil over a slow fire and serve with melted
butter, salt and pepper.

STEWED TOMATOES.

In stewing tomatoes, pour away the surplus water, so soon as they begin to boil, and
add a small piece of butter, a very little sugar, pepper and salt ; cook about fifteen minutes,
when stir in bread-crumbs, if you like them.

BOILED TURNIPS MASHED.

Peel and lay in cold water, slightly salted, put them in boiling water, and boil gently for
an hour and a half, or until tender, Try them with a fork, and when tender, take them
up, drain them on a sieve, and either send them to the table whole with melted butter, or
mash them in the colander with a wooden spoon ; stirring in a little butter with pepper
and salt to taste; serve hot. Setting in the sun after they are cooked, or on a part of the
table upon which the sun may happen to shine, will give to turnips a singularly unpleasant
taste, and should therefore be avoided. When turnips are very young, it is customary to
serve stewed whole in milk. Mutton, either boiled or roasted, should always be accom-
panied by turnips.

BOILED MACARONI.

Put it into boiling water and salt enough water to cover it, and a tablespoon of salt
to a quart of water. Boil it until it is just tender enough to break easily between the
fingers without being boiled in pieces. Then drain it and put it in cold water, and keep
it there just long enough to cool it. It will then be ready to dress with any kind of sauce
or cheese. Italian macaroni is recommended because it does not break in boi-ling, and,
besides, has a very mild, pleasant taste and is more nutritious, since it is made of better
wheat than the American, German, or French macaroni. Never wash macaroni before it
is boiled. If it is dusty, wipe it off with a dry cloth.

MACARONI WITH TOMATOES.

Boil macaroni in a little water with a piece of beef until tender. Take out the meat,
season the gravy with salt and pepper ; thicken with a little flour, and add the tomatoes
strained.

136 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

BOILED RICE.

To boil rice so that all the grains will be separate and the mass perfectly dry, pick it
over and take out any husks there may be in the rice ; wash it in cold water and drain it,
and then put it into plenty of boiling water salted. Boil it for twelve minutes ; then
drain it and cover it with the lid of the kettle or a thick towel. Let it stand ten or twelve
minutes longer, until it is dry and the grains crack just a little. Then it will be ready
to use.

RICE CROQUETTES.

To half a pound of rice, one quart of milk, one teacup of sugar, a very little butter,
yolks of one or two eggs beaten, flavoring, and a little salt. Soak the rice three or four
hours in water ; drain, and put into a basin with the milk and salt. Set the basin in the
steamer, and cook until thoroughly done. Then stir in carefully the sugar, the yolks of
one or two eggs, very little butter, and flavor with extract of lemon or vanilla. When cool
enough to handle, form into small balls ; press the thumb into the centre of each ; insert
a little marmalade, or jelly of any kind, and close the rice well over them. Roll in the
beaten eggs (sweetened a little) and bread-crumbs. Fry in boiling hot lard.

EGGS.

" An egg is a good example of the different way in which the different substances which serve as our food
are acted on by heat. Put it on the fire in a saucepan, with cold water ; let it heat gradually and slowly ; and
you will find that the yolk is set before the white, and also before the water boils. The white becomes fixed soon
afterwards, and at the temperature of scarcely boiling soft-water. You will, therefore, employ quite a moderate
degree of heat for sauces thickened with yolk of egg, while a very little more heat will serve for dishes com-
posed of the whites and yolks together. You understand why, if baked custards, rice puddings, and the like
boil in their baking-dish, they are ruined, running into whey ; why boiled custards and creams containing eggs
should be done in a bain-marie, or jar immersed in a saucepan of hot water ; why an omelette, left long enough
in the pan to get penetrated by the heat of the butter in which it is fried, becomes leathery. Quick boiling
converts the white of the egg into something very like gutta-percha, even though the yoke is not yet hard.
Poached eggs, on the contrary, in which it is desirable to set the white speedily, in order to keep them whole
and shapely, should be dropped not only into boiling water, but into water hotter than ordinary boiling water,
i. e., quite fresh water. Now the boiling of water may be delayed ; that is, it may be made to get hotter
before it comes to a boil, by dissolving in it any solid body less volatile than itself, such as common salt, when
eleven or twelve degrees higher of Fahrenheit are required to produce ebullition. This is why plunging fish
into boiling salt and water renders it firmer by suddenly coagulating the albumen. The greater heat so
obtained also cooks vegetables more thoroughly. And the same hot liquid is best for poaching eggs ; they
come out of their bath with smooth and clean, instead of ragged and untidy jackets."

PROPER WAY TO COOK EGGS.

Butter a tin plate and break in the eggs ; set in a steamer ; place over a kettle of boil-
ing water and steam till the whites are cooked. They are more ornamental when broken

EGGS. 137

into patty tins, as they keep their form better. The whites of the eggs, when cooked in
this manner, are tender and light, and not tough and leathery, as if cooked by any other
process ; they can be eaten by invalids, and they certainly are very much richer than by
any other method. If cooked in the shell, they taste of the lime contained in them ; and
if broken into boiling water, it destroys their flavor.

M. EGG BALLS.

Take the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, mash them on a plate, with one large tablespoon
of flour and some pepper ; when mixed to a paste, use enough raw egg to make it suffi-
ciently moist to roll into balls or cakes. Put the balls in a dish and pour over them some
cream and butter heated together ; cut the whites in rings and garnish with them.

M. SOFT-BOILED EGGS.

Wash the shells clean, put them in cold water over a quick fire until it comes to a boil
when they will be just right for soft-boiled eggs if desired hard, let them boil two or three
minutes longer. The flavor is more delicious if put in cold water first, instead of hot water.
When, boiled in hot water, it should be boiling hot four minutes for soft-boiled, six to
seven minutes for hard-boiled. Eggs cook in the shell, after being taken from the water,
if not removed from the shell at once. Serve boiled eggs in a napkin.

EASTER EGGS.

Easter morning would be incomplete, for the children at least, without the brightly-
colored eggs typical of the day. There are many ways of coloring the eggs, the easiest
being the boiling of them with various colored dyes sold in small packages at the chem-
ists'. An old-fashioned method was to tie each egg in a piece of figured chintz or calico,
which would leave its imprint on the egg after it was exposed to the action of boiling
water. Another good way to produce a variegated reddish purple color was to boil with
the eggs the skins of red onions. To color the eggs with original designs, a provincial
method was to trace figures upon the shells of raw eggs with a bit of hard tallow candle,
thus covering the part of the shell which was desired white, and then to put the eggs in
boiling dye-water. Sometimes the eggs are entirely dyed, and then designs are engraved
upon them with a sharp knife or a strong trussing or darning needle. When the prepared
dye stuffs are not available, varied colors may be produced by using the following named
chemicals, boiling a small quantity with the eggs : red, Brazil wood ; yellow, Persian
berries, or a very little turmeric ; brown, a strong dye of turmeric ; claret color, logwood ;
black, logwood and chromate of potash ; blue, a mixture of powdered indigo, crystals of
sulphate of iron, and a little dry slacked lime. The eggs should always be boiled for ten
minutes at least.

138 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

POACHED EGGS.

Have over the fire a large shallow frying-pan half full of boiling water, salted; put in half
a cup of vinegar and a teaspoon of salt, and then drop in the eggs, which must previously be
broken in cups ; small rings may be set in the pan, an egg being poured into each one
without breaking the yolk, or an egg-poacher of perforated tin may be used ; when the
eggs are done to the desired degree take each one up separately on a skimmer, trim off
the uneven edges, and then serve on toasted bread.

FRIED EGGS.

After frying ham, drop the eggs one by one in the hot fat, and dip it over them until
the white is set. They may be served alone, or on the ham ; or they may be fried in
other fat and served on broiled ham. An egg on each piece of ham to be served together.

SCRAMBLED EGGS.

Heat two ounces of butter in a frying-pan ; break six eggs in a bowl, and throw a half
teaspoon of salt over them ; pour them, unbeaten, into the hot butter, and as they cook,
scrape them from the sides and bottom of the pan. Cooking them in this way leaves
strips of the white and yellow through the dish. If this is not liked, the eggs may be
beaten before they are put in the frying-pan, and stirred constantly while cooking to avoid
the large pieces. Be careful not to let them get stiff, nor have the dish on which they are
served too hot. When served, sprinkle with pepper. One gill of milk or cream may be
added to the beaten eggs, in the above recipe, and they may be scrambled in a baking
dish, and sent in to the table.

SHIRRED EGGS.

Butter as many small dishes, which come for the purpose, as you wish to serve, one for
each person ; into each dish break two eggs, taking care that each is whole, and does not
encroach upon the other so much as to disturb the yolk. Sprinkle sparingly with pepper
and salt, and put a bit of butter on each. Put them into an oven and bake until the whites
are well set. Serve immediately in the same dish in which they are cooked. Each per-
son shirs or mixes them together, according to taste. Or the eggs may be shirred alto-
gether in one large earthen or silver dish.

OMELETTES.

An omelette pan should be used exclusively for the purpose. When the omelette is made the pan should be
put away in a clean, dry place, bottom up; when needed, warm on a slow fire and wipe clean with a towel, but
do not wash it unless something unclean gets into it.

PLAIN OMELETTE.

Porportions : One ounce of butter and a pinch of salt to four eggs.

Process : Beat the eggs and salt ; the eggs should not be beaten too much, as it makes them thin and
destroys the appearance of the omelette. Place the butter in the pan over a good fire, melt the butter quickly

EGGS. 139

without allowing it to brown, turn the eggs in ; as it cooks raise the edge with a knife, and press it slightly
towards the centre ; the moment it is thickened or " set " fold the omelette by turning one half over the other,
then turn the pan upside down upon a warm dish, so that the under side of the omelette when in the pan will
be the upper side when on the dish. It should be soft, juicy and smooth. It is unnecessary to add water or
milk if cooked properly it is soft enough without any liquid being mixed with the eggs. Omelettes are often
spoiled by making too slowly. An omelette can not be made too quickly.

VEGETABLES IN OMELETTES.

If vegetables are to be added, they should be already cooked, seasoned, and hot ; place in the centre of
the omelette, just before turning : so with mushroom, shrimps, or any cooked ingredient.

ASPARAGUS OMELETTE.

Prepare same as plain omelette. When ready to fold, place a cup of asparagus points
cooked, hot and seasoned, in the middle of the omelette, double it, and finish the same as
jelly omelette.

BLAZING OMELETTES.

When made and turned on the warm dish, sprinkle with sugar, and with the end of a
red-hot poker touch it on the top here and there, or in fanciful shapes, according to taste.
Pour over it a wineglass of good Jamaica rum or brandy, and set it on fire with a match ;
serve at once and dip the liquor with a silver spoon over the omelette as long as it will
burn.

KIDNEY OMELETTES.

Wipe half a beef kidney with a wet towel, cut it in small slices, rejecting all veins and
membranes, put it over the fire in a frying-pan with two heaping tablespoons of butter and
fry it quickly. Meantime break three eggs, beat them with a saltspoon of salt and a
little pepper ; put a heaping dessertspoon of butter in a frying-pan over the fire, and
when it is melted pour in the beaten egg ; break the omelette a little while it is cooking,
so that the uncooked portion may run to the bottom of the pan; when the uncooked
portion is sufficiently done, pour the kidney in the middle of it, fold it together, turn
it out on a hot dish, and serve it hot.

PARSLEY OMELETTE.

A few sprigs of parsley chopped fine, add a little grated nutmeg, and mix with the
beaten eggs, finish as directed. Parsley and chives prepared as above is called Omelette
aux fines herbes.

HAM OR BACON OMELETTE.

If the ham is raw, cut in small pieces ; put it in the butter, when cooked, turn the beaten
eggs over it ; finish as directed. If boiled ham is used, cut in small pieces and mix with
the beaten eggs. Bacon may be used in the same manner.

140 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

CHEESE OMELETTE,

A little cheese grated, or cut in thin square pieces ; mix it with the beaten eggs ; finish
as directed. The best kind of cheese are Swiss cheese, Gruyere Parmesan and pine-apple

cheese.

JELLY, JAM, OR MARMALADE OMELETTE.

Rub off the yellow part of the lemon with a piece of loaf sugar ; pound the sugar in a
mortar and mix it with the beaten eggs. When the omelette is ready to double up place a
few spoonfuls of apple jelly on the middle of the omelette, and double it so the jelly is
concealed. Any kind of jams, or marmalades, and, in fact, any kind of sweetmeat, may be
used in the same way.

BREAD.

" Give us this day our daily bread."

" In the English language there is no nobler word than lady. But go back to its origin, and what do we
find that it means ? We find that it means she that looks after the loaf, the guardian of the bread. And to
look rightly after the loaf, must not the ' lady ' herself have been able to make it, and able to teach her maids
how to make it ? Most certainly.

" In our day ' lady ' has, indeed, a wider meaning than this its early sense. But there is not a lady in the
land who would not add to her accomplishments in the ability to make good bread."

Bread, good bread, is of pre-eminent importance and should receive our first consideration. If you have
good bread other food can be added, very easily; but, without good bread everything else is as nothing,
bread being the numeral, and all other adjuncts, units as it were. There need be no morsel of bread wasted,
recipes will be given for using all that has become dry and stale.

HOW. TO DISTINGUISH GOOD FLOUR.

To make good bread you must have the best flour, which is far more satisfactory and economical in the
end. The best flour is yellowish white ; when handled it is lively and will stick to the fingers.

TO MAKE GOOD BREAD.

Next in importance to good flour, is good yeast or emptings. Flour should always be sifted and put in a
warm place, to get thoroughly warmed and dried before the sponge is made. Bread is much better and more
tender wet with milk than with water, and requires less flour and less kneading. Some prefer a little shorten-
ing. In making good bread, great care must be taken of it, mixing, kneading and baking all require the closest
attention.

If milk is used, it must be new, and in warm weather it must be scalded, and then cooled until but luke-
warm ; the batter must be of the right temperature when the yeast is put in ; if hot, . the life of the yeast is
destroyed ; if cold, much time is lost in rising.

If you cannot use all milk for wetting the flour, a part milk is better than all water. If liked, put half a
cup of shortening melted in the wetting, to one large loaf, or added to the sponge after it has risen the first
time. One cup of yeast to every two loaves. The dough should be kept warm from the time it is mixed until
it is baked, it will rise quicker and be better for it. Mix the sponge stiff, if set at night in cold weather, put it
where it will keep warm, otherwise you had better wait until morning in summer the natural heat is sufficient.

R. T. ACRES

H. E. P. WILLIAMS

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BREAD. 141

If the sponge is set at night and kept warm it will be light in the morning and should be kneaded at once in one
large lump, then let it stand to rise again, when light mould into loaves. The more bread is kneaded before
forming the loaves, the better it will be, but it should be kept soft as possible, using as little flour as you can ;
when the loaves are formed put them into well-buttered pans or in rows in one large pan. Set the pans in a
warm place for an hour, with a cloth thrown over them to exclude the air and dust ; then bake in an oven not
hotter than you can hold your hand in while counting thirty ; keep a uniform fire. When baked, which will
require about an hour, let it stand in the pans a few moments, then turn out and place in an upright or stand-
ing position.

Do not cover the bread up in cloths ; it spoils the taste ; turn the pans, and let i-t rest against them
without covering.

When cold put it away in a well-aired, clean stone crock, and keep it closely covered. Keep it in a cool
place. All kinds of yeast bread is made by this method. You can add mashed boiled potatoes to any kind of
bread and it will improve it, one teacup of potato to every loaf. Dry bread can also be used, first remove
the crust, then moisten it in the wetting, proportioning a half loaf of the dry bread to two of the new.

HOP YEAST.

This yeast will keep a long time. Six potatoes, double handful hops, three tablespoons
flour, three tablespoons salt, three tablespoons yeast, two tablespoons sugar, one table-
spoon ginger. Tie the hops in a coarse muslin bag, boil in two quarts of water. Grate
the potatoes ; pour on them the hop water, boiling hot, of which there must be one quart,
which forms a starch, add the flour, salt, sugar, ginger, stir thoroughly and set aside until
lukewarm, then add three tablespoons of good yeast, set it in a warm place to rise ; when
light and spongy, which will take about three or four hours, put it in a jug that can be
corked air-tight, and keep it in a cool place. After the first time some of the yeast can be
saved to raise the next with.

SALT RISING, OR EMPTINGS.

Pour a pint of boiling hot water into a two-quart bowl or pail, on a half teaspoon of
salt, half teaspoon of sugar ; when the finger can be held in it, add enough flour to make
a stiff batter ; mix well, and set it in a kettle of warm water ; keep it at the same temper-
ature until the batter is nearly twice its original bulk, which will be in from five to eight
hours. It may be stirred once or twice during the rising. The salt rising, or empting,
can be set at night, the kettle being left in a warm oven, and will be risen by morning.
Add this to a sponge made of one quart of warm water and two and a half quarts of flour,
adding as much more as may be necessary to make a soft dough ; mix well, and leave it
in a warm place to rise ; when light mould into loaves, keeping them soft as possible ; lay
them in buttered tins, and when light, prick and bake.

R. BEST STEAMED BROWN BREAD.

Three cups sour milk or buttermilk, two-thirds cup of molasses, three eggs, one tea-
spoon ginger, two teaspoons soda heaped a little, a little salt, one-third part flour, two-
thirds part corn meal. Make a soft batter, put it into a tin pail, put this pail into a kettle

142 HOME DISSERTAIONS.

of boiling water, not letting the water come high enough to boil into the pail or wet the
bread in the least. Cover the kettle tight. It is not necessary to cover the pail. Boil
four hours, taking care that there is always water in the kettle. Hot water must be used
to keep up the supply, being careful not to wet the bread. This makes also an excellent
pudding to use with sauce.

GRAHAM BREAD.

One cup of milk and one of water ; bring to scalding point, and remove from fire ; add
small piece of butter, same as you would for the white bread ; add half a cup of coffee-
sugar, or clean, dry, yellow sugar ; salt, and when cool enough stir into the Graham
flour. And here let me say you want the best no spring-wheat Graham flour without
you want a sticky bread. Sift the flour, if it seems to have an undue proportion of
bran. One-fourth of a cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in half a cup of water ; stir
the batter as stiff as possible with a spoon. When light, stir in half a saltspoon of soda,
dissolved in a little water. Do not add anymore flour, but turn it in the pan, and sponge
not quite so much as the white bread. Bake in one loaf, in a long, deep tin. When
baking brown bread, do not open the oven until it is nearly done, for it is very sensitive
to the cold air, and will fall, and no amount of baking will make it rise again.

RYE BREAD.

One cup of rye meal ; one of Indian meal ; one of molasses ; two of flour ; one pint
and a half of sour milk ; a teaspoon of soda ; an egg ; one teaspoon of salt. Mix the
dry ingredients together. Dissolve the soda in two tablespoons of boiling water. Add
it and the milk to the molasses. Stir well and pour on the other mixed ingredients.
Beat the egg and add it. Mix thoroughly, and pour into a well-buttered tin pan that
holds two quarts. Steam two hours, and then put in the oven for half an hour.

SODA BISCUIT WITHOUT MILK.

One quart flour ; two heaping tablespoons butter, chopped up in the flour ; two cups
cold water ; two teaspoons cream tartar, sifted thoroughly with the flour ; one teaspoon
soda, dissolved in boiling water ; a little salt. When flour, cream of tartar, salt and butter
are well incorporated, stir the soda into the cold water, and mix the dough very quickly,
handling as little as may be. It should be just stiff enough to roll out. Stiff soda biscuit
are always failures. Roll half an inch thick with a few rapid strokes, cut out, and bake
at once in a quick oven.

SOUTHERN RAISED BISCUIT.

Heat a pint of milk to melt a heaping tablespoon of butter, and then cool it until it is
lukewarm ; beat an egg smoothly, add to it a level teaspoon of salt, a gill of good yeast, a
quart of flour and the lukewarm milk ; cover the bowl or pan containing this sponge with

BREAD. 143

a folded towel, and let it stand over night in a place warm enough to insure its rising
properly ; the next morning knead the dough gently for five minutes, using enough flour
to prevent its sticking to the hands ; make it up in small biscuit, put them into a buttered
baking-pan, cover them with a folded towel and put the pan in a warm place for half an
hour, or until the biscuit have swollen to twice their original size ; do not put the pan
where it is too hot to hold the hand ; when the biscuit are light brush them over the
surface with a little sugar dissolved in milk, or with melted butter, and then bake them
brown in a quick oven and serve them hot.

VIENNA ROLLS.

One quart flour ; half teaspoon salt ; two teaspoons baking powder ; one table-
spoon lard ; one pint milk. Sift together flour, salt and baking powder, rub in the lard,
which must be cold, add the milk and mix into a smooth dough in the bowl easy to be
handled without sticking to the hands or board ; flour the board, turn it out and give it a
quick knead or two to equalize it, then roll it out to the thickness of half an inch; cut with
round cutter, fold one half on the other, doubling it; lay it on a greased baking sheet with-
out touching ; brush with a little milk to glaze them ; bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes.

FRENCH ROLLS.

One pint of milk ; one small cup of home-made yeast ; flour enough to make a stiff
batter ; raise over night ; in the morning add one egg, one tablespoon of butter and flour
enough to make it stiff to roll. Mix it well and let it rise, then knead it again to make
it fine and white ; roll out, cut with a round tin and fold over, put them in a pan and
cover very close. Set them in a warm place until they are very light, bake quickly, and
you will have delicious rolls.

K. ENGLISH JOHNNY CAKE.

Boil a pint of sweet milk ; pour it over a teacup and a half of Indian corn meal and
beat it for fifteen minutes. Unless well beaten, it will not be light. Add a little salt, half
a teacup of sour milk, one beaten egg, a tablespoon of melted butter, a tablespoon of flour,
and a teaspoon of carbonate of soda. Beat well together again. This cake is best baked
in a spider on the stove. When browned on the bottom, turn it into another spider, or
finish it off on the pan-cake griddle

R. AMERICAN JOHNNY CAKE.

Two cups buttermilk or sour milk ; one half cup of molasses ; two eggs ; one half tea-
spoon ginger ; one teaspoon soda ; butter half the size of an egg ; a little salt ; one part
flour ; two parts corn meal ; make a batter of medium thickness, bake thirty to forty
minutes in hot oven.

i 4 4 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

BOILED INDIAN MEAL MUSH.

Put over the fire a saucepan containing about two quarts of water and a level tablespoon
of salt ; into this water, when it boils, stir enough Indian meal to make a mush
thick enough to hold the pudding-stick upright in it when it boils ; about two pounds
of Indian meal will thicken two quarts of water ; unless it seems quite easy to sift
the meal gradually into the boiling water with the left hand, while the right is used
constantly for stirring, the meal may be mixed to a thin batter with cold water and
then poured and stirred gradually into the boiling water; the addition of two heaping
tablespoons of flour to each pound of Indian meal before cooking will make the
mush easier to fry, because the flour will hold the slices of mush together during the
frying ; after the mush has been stirred quite free from lumps let it boil for an hour,
stirring it often enough to prevent burning, and using only enough heat to maintain it at
the boiling point ; when the mush is sufficiently cooked pour it into pans or earthen
dishes wet with cold water, and let it cool; it will then be ready to slice and fry. Mush
made in this way not quite so stiff is excellent with milk, or cream and sugar.

FRIED MUSH.

When prepared aS above, cut in slices about half an inch thick. Beat an egg and put it
in a shallow dish; wet the pudding in the egg and fry brown in hot lard, of which there
should be sufficient to keep the pan from getting dry. This is excellent for breakfast,
with maple syrup or sugar.
P. GRAHAM GEMS.

One egg, one tablespoon molasses, two cups buttermilk, one teaspoon soda, a little salt,
Graham enough to make a stiff batter. Bake in hot gem pans.

R. FLOUR OF THE WHOLE WHEAT.

This contains all the nourishing substance of the wheat, and is better than Graham flour, tne hull
being entirely removed. It makes good bread, but muffins and griddle-cakes made of it are especially good.
It is brown, but as fine as the white flour. Ask for flour of the whole wheat.

R. MUFFINS.

One quart of flour, one and one-fourth pints of milk, one tablespoon of sugar, one tea-
spoon salt, two teaspoons of baking powder; bake in hot oven about thirty minutes. They
are good with part water and part milk if the supply of milk should fall short. Double or
treble the quantity at pleasure. Also good baked in loaves as well as in muffin rings or
patty pans. Bread like white bread only mixed softer.

R. SALLY LUNNS.

One quart flour, one teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking powder, two-thirds cup
butter, four eggs, one half pint of milk ; rub the butter into the flour ; mix to a firm
batter ; bake in two round cake-tins twenty-five minutes in a hot oven.

BREAD. 145

WAFFLES.

Beat carefully into one quart of flour one quart of sweet milk, one cup of melted butter,
half a teaspoon of salt, and a scant half cup of good home-made yeast. When raised
add two eggs well beaten, and let the batter rise half an hour longer. Bake as soon as
light in hot greased waffle-irons. Waffles are much better made with yeast than with soda
and cream-tartar, or any yeast powder.

DRY BREAD.

GRIDDLE CAKES FOR SUNDAY BREAKFAST.

It is a mistake to suppose that bread-pudding, like broiled steaks, are necessary to existence. It is very
melancholy to see so many ways divulged for using " stale " bread, whereby dry slices and crusts might

suffer a sea-change
Into something rich and strange.

I am not very much interested in these ways, there are so many better puddings than "bread puddings " to be
had at less expense. I've never been able to see the economy of wasting eggs, milk, raisins and spices just for
the sake of " saving " a few crusts ! The best way to deal with stale bread is to resolve not to hare any that is
too stale to be agreeable. Good bread baked twice a week and kept in a stone jar in a cool, dry place will
generally be eaten as bread, but if a few crusts accumulate each week they can be merged into palatable griddle-
cakes for Sunday breakfast. Let them soak in three cups of rich, sweet milk until soft, then stir in two or
three well-beaten eggs, a dessertspoon of baking powder, and enough flour to create the right consistency.
They will be found as delicate and tender as rice cakes ; and eaten only once a week, will not preceptibly
shorten life.

QUICK BUCKWHEAT CAKES.

Any one can make delicious Buckwheat Cakes by using Hecker's Self -Raising Buckwheat
as follows: Have the griddle hot. Measure two even cupfuls of Hecker's Self-Raising
Buckwheat and two of the same sized cupfuls of cold water or milk. Stir the buckwheat
with part of the water or milk until it forms a soft dough; then add the balance of the
liquid the less stirring the better. Bake or fry immediately. Keep the batter in a, cool'
place if not wanted for immediate use. Two teaspoonfuls of good molasses mixed in the
batter will give the cakes a rich brown color.

OATMEAL GRUEL.

FOR INVALIDS.

Take from two to four ounces of Hecker's Rolled Oats, two quarts of water, one
teaspoonful salt. Soak the oatmeal over night in half the water. In the morning strain
through a coarse tarletan bag, pressing through all the farinaceous matter that will go.
Add the rest of the water with the salt, and boil down until it begins to thicken perceptibly.
Let it cool enough to become almost a jelly, and eat with powdered sugar and cream. It
is very good for others besides invalids.

146 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

OHIO OATMEAL.

Put into plenty of boiling water as much oatmeal as is required, if there is not an
abundance of water at first the oatmeal will not be very good no matter how much
is added during cooking. Allow two quarts of boiling water to one cup of oatmeal which
has been wet with cold water. Boil one hour, stirring often, and then add half a teaspoon
of salt, and boil an hour longer. Some soak it over night to hasten the cooking. This
makes it clammy. It is also clammy when it is allowed to cook after it is thoroughly done.
The oatmeal must be bought of a reliable grocer who will not furnish a stale article.
Cracked wheat may be cooked in the same way.

. SCOTCH OATMEAL PORRIDGE.

Scotch oatmeal porridge is made with milk and water, in proportion of one part of the
former to two of the latter. Allow two ounces of oatmeal to a pint and a half of milk
and water, and boil half an hour.

STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE.

Make a soda-biscuit crust with one quart of flour ; divide it in two equal parts ; it is to
be served on a platter, roll the crust the shape and size inside the rim ; if a dinner-plate
is to be used, make the cakes round. Roll them half an inch thick, prick well, and bake
in a hot oven. Split the cakes, lay one half on the plate, crust down ; butter, and put
over it a thick layer of strawberries and sugar ; then another half cake, butter, strawberries
and sugar and so on ; the last half may be a cover, the crust side up, or it may be turned
and covered with fruit like the others. Leave it in the oven from five to ten minutes, and
serve smoking hot. Epicures prefer the strawberries crushed with sugar before putting
between the cake layers.

CREAM TOAST.

One quart milk ; two tablespoons of flour dissolved in a little milk ; the spoon should
be heaped ; salt to taste. Let the milk come to a boil ; add the flour, stirring till it boils.
Let it boil four minutes. It should be as thick as cream. Vienna bread makes the best
toast. Brown it, and pour the thickened milk over it just before it is served. It is better
not to pour it upon the bread while boiling, for it makes the bread too soft to be palatable.
If made just right it is delicious.

BREAD-CRUMBS.

The pieces of bread should be dried thoroughly by placing them in a pan on a shelf
over the stove. "When dry, roll them with a rolling-pin and sift them through a flour
sieve. The fine crumbs will be as fine as meal, and are used for what is called breading,
covering chops or oysters, or croquettes by dipping them first in the crumbs, then in egg
beaten up, and again in the crumbs, and then frying them. The coarse crumbs are very
much better than flour for plum or bread pudding." Keep in paper bags.

CAKE.

/Pandarus. He that will have a cake out of the wheat must needs tarry the grinding.

7'roiius. Have I not tarried ?

Pandarus. Ay, the grinding, but you must tarry the bolting.

Troilus. Have I not tarried?

Pandarus. Ay, the bolting, but you must tarry the leavening.

Troihis. Still have I tarried.

Pandarus. Ay, to the leavening ; but here's in a word ' hereafter ' the kneading, the making

of the cake, the heating of the oven and the baking ; nay, you must stay the cooling too.

or you may chance to burn your lips.
Troilus. Patience herself, what goddess e'er she be.
Doth lesser blench at sufferance than I do.

TROILUS AND CRESSIDA.

Ail the* ingredients for making cake must be of the best quality. Good flour, dry white sugar, remember-
ig that there is no intermediate degrees of quality in butter and eggs, they are either good or bad. " English
currants come to us with so much of their native soil, that they should be thoroughly cleansed. " The process is
necessarily so long and troublesome that it is better to wash several pounds at once ; a year's supply. Put
them in a milk-pan with a quantity of warm water ; after rubbing them thoroughly pour off the water and put
the currants into the colander; rinse the pan, set the colander in it, and pour over the fruit as much cold water
as the pan will hold, then wash the currants well, and stir them about so that the clean water may run in as the
dirty water runs out. If needfaj take another water, and still another. Persevere until the fruit does not
change the color of the water, then let it drain in the colander for half an hour. Spread a large cloth on the
table, pour the currants in the centre, and rub them with the sides and ends, absorbing as much of the water
as possible ; when the cloth is quite damp spread a dry one, and cover it thinly with the fruit. This work
should be done in a good light, that all foreign substances may be seen and removed. Through the whole
process keep a constant "lookout for breakers" fo<tf/-breakers. Wash the currants in the afternoon, and
leave them on the second cloth in a warm room to dry over night ; in the morning put in jars and cover closely.

A "Raisin Stoner " saves the old tedious process of stoning raisins with a knife. They must first be
stemmed, then one by one put through this ingenious little machine ; the work is quickly and well done v
with comparatively clean fingers. Thanks also to this labor-saving age, we are no longer obliged to
grate sugar or grind spices. For beating eggs, use a large earthen bowl, and this kind of egg-beater a
wooden handle with wire loops in the form of a spoon. Blanch almonds by pouring boiling water over them
and stripping off the skins.

In preparing ingredients for cake, weigh the sifted flour, first, slide it on a piece of clean brown paper, then
weigh the sugar, arrange the scales for the additional weight of butter and lay this carefully on the sugar ; the
cutter can then be creamed in the cake-bowl, and the sugar added by degrees from the tin receiver, which then
being quite clean, need be only wiped, whereas, had the butter touched it, it would require washing. It is
a:so a good plan to have a couple of paper bags near the scales marked " Flour, " and "Sugar," have them
large enough to hold two quarts each. It is easy to slide the flour and sugar into them from the end of the tin
receiver, and in every way they are better than plates or bowls. "

To cream butter is to stir it with a spoon until it is of the consistency of thick cream.

147

i4<5 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

TO MAKE CAKE.

W" the Jlour oefore measuring. Be accurate in your measuring. Attend to the oven, which must, for
mo ( ;ake, be of the heat required for baking bread. See that the fire is in condition to ensure heat for three-
fourths of an hour from the time the cake goes in, neither increasing nor decreasing. It is bad to add coal
while cake is in the oven, and it is equally bad to open oven-doors for cooling. A basin of water put into the
oven with cake or pastry will keep them from burning. Prepare the baking-pans. These must be thinly
buttered , and the lower part covered with paper ; many butter the paper also, but it is not necessary. Collect
all the ingredients, measure or weigh, as the recipe requires. Should the butter be quite salt it must be washed
in cold water ; press out the water and cream the butter, when the sugar may be gradually added and thor-
oughly beaten in. Beat the yolks of the eggs until they are thick and smooth and add them, beating well, to
the butter and sugar ; add the spice, then beat the whites of the eggs to so stiff a froth that they will adhere
to the bowl when it is turned upside down. If the recipe requires milk it should now be stirred in alternately
with the whites of the eggs and the flour, leaving a little of the flour to go in last ; if no milk is used, add the
whites of the eggs, then the flour, after which it should be stirred as little as possible. Add the fruit last.
Flour the currants, raisins, and citron before adding to the mixture, which prevents the fruit from falling to
the bottom. Fill the pans but little more than half their depth, and if possible do not move them while the
cake is baking. Test whether a cake is done by running a clean straw into the thickest part. It should come
out clean if the cake is done.

Icing can be made while the cake, if in ordinary loaves, is in the oven. If the icing be ff>r jelly-cake,
which bakes in a few moments, it should be ready when the cake goes into the oven. The whites of three
eggs will make sufficient icing for two loaves of cake. Icing will keep for weeks, closely covered in a cool
place. If too stiff from partial drying, add a little water. The whites of eggs will keep several days. The
white of a common-sized egg weighs one ounce.

Cake should be wrapped in a thick cloth as soon as cool, and kept in tight tin boxes. Do not cut more at
a time than you are likely to use, as it is not good when dry. Jelly-cakes are best set away on plates, cicfhs
wrapped oioseiy about them, and a box enclosing all.

ANGEL CAKE.

Whites of eleven eggs, one and a half cups of granulated sugar, one cup of pastry flour,
measured after being sifted four times, one teaspoon cream of tartar, one teaspoon extract
vanilla. Stir the flour and cream of tartar together. Beat the whites to a stiff froth.
Beat the sugar into the eggs, and add the seasoning and flour, stirring quickly and lightly.
Beat until ready to put the mixture in the oven. Use a tubed pudding pan, eleven inches
in diameter on top, eight and a quarter inches on bottom ; height, four and a quarter
inches. Three legs, equal distance apart, to project one and a half inches above top of
pan and riveted to the outside. Tube five and one-eighth inches long. Use this dish for
(no other purpose. Do not butter the pan. Bake forty minutes. Keep a pint di. c L of hot
'water in the oven while baking. Do not open the oven door for at least twenty minutes
after being put in. Avoid jarring the oven while the cake is baking. When the forty
minutes have passed, take out the tin, turn it bottom side up, and leave the cake to fall
out itself.

CAROLINA CAKE.

One pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of butter, one pound of flour, half a pint of
cream, one teaspoon of soda. Cream the sugar and butter, work the flour smoothly in,

CAKE. 149

next the cream, and lastly the soda, stir lightly and rapidly together, and bake quickly, in
small patty-pans. Eat while fresh.

COCOANUT LAYER CAKE.

One cup sugar, one cup flour, one-half teaspoon cream of tartar, one-quarter teaspoon
soda, one tablespoon of boiling water, three eggs ; beat the yolks of the eggs, stir in the
sugar, then the whites beaten to a stiff froth, then the flour with cream tartar mixed
through it, then the soda dissolved in the boiling water; bake in three or four cakes in layer
pans in a quick oven. Make an icing of the whites of two eggs, and six heaping table-
spoons of pulverized sugar ; spread the icing on one cake, then a layer of cocoanut, then
icing, then another cake, and so on ; soak the cocoanut, before using it, in a little milk.

BOSTON CREAM CAKES.

Into one pint of boiling water stir four ounces of butter, six of flour, and when cool,
add five eggs, well beaten, and one-half teaspoon of baking powder ; beat up thoroughly,
and bake in patty-pans in a very hot oven. When cool, with a sharp knife cut a small
opening and fill with the custard, which you will make in this way : One pint of boiling
milk, one cup of sugar, three beaten eggs, one-half cup of corn-starch, and flavored with
lemon or vanilla, as preferred.

HICKORY-NUT MACCAROONS.

One cup of hickory-nut meats, pounded in a mortar ; one cup of sugar, one egg and a
half, and two tablespoons of flour; bake on a greased paper; put very little in a place.

CUP CAKE.

Four eggs, four tumblers of sifted flour, three tumblers of powdered white sugar, one
tumbler of butter, one tumbler of rich milk, one nutmeg, one teaspoon powdered cinna-
mon, one small teaspoon soda. Warm the milk and put in the butter, keeping it by the
fire until the butter is melted. Beat the eggs very light and stir into the milk, in turn
with the flour, add the spice, and lastly the soda dissolved in a little vinegar. Stir all
very hard. Butter small tin pans, half fill them, and bake in a moderate oven of equal
heat throughout.

R. COOKIES.

One quart flour, one cup milk, two heaping teaspoons baking powder, one and one-
half cups sugar, two eggs, butter size of an egg, half a nutmeg. Beat sugar, butter
and eggs together. Roll out thin and cut in whatever shape is desired.

COOKIES WITHOUT EGGS.

Two cups white sugar, one cup butter, one cup sour milk, three cups flour, one small
teaspoon soda, lemon extract, more flour to roll out. Bake in a hot oven.

150 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

P. GINGER COOKIES.

One cup molasses, one cup brown sugar, one egg, one cup lard, one-half cup warm
water, one teaspoon soda, ginger and salt to the taste.

CRULLERS.

One cup sour cream, one cup sugar, one egg, small teaspoon soda, a little salt ; spice to
taste. Mix soft with flour. Fry in boiling lard.

P. COFFEE CAKE.

One cup sugar, one cup molasses, half cup butter, one cup coffee, one cup raisins, one
teaspoon soda, two eggs ; spice as you please. Add flour to make stiff batter as for cup
cake.
R. DOUGHNUTS.

One egg, one cup of sugar, one cup of milk, one tablespoon of butter, salt and spice to
taste, two teaspoons of baking-powder, one quart of flour. Roll out and cut with cake-
cutter, making a hole in the middle with a very small cake-cutter. Fry in boiling lard.
Turn as soon as brown. These will not soak fat if taken out as soon as done.

ECLAIRS.

Put one cup of boiling water and one-half cup of butter in a large saucepan. When it
boils up, turn in one pint flour. Beat well with the vegetable masher. When perfectly
smooth, remove from the fire. Break five eggs into a bowl. When the paste is nearly
cold, beat the eggs into it with the hand. Only a small part of the eggs should be added
at a time. When the mixture is thoroughly beaten, spread, on buttered sheets, in oblong
pieces, about four inches long and one and a half wide. Place about two inches apart.
Bake, in rather a quick oven, for about twenty-five minutes. As soon as they are done,
ice with frosting made of the whites of two eggs and one and a half cups of powdered
sugar. Flavor with a teaspoon of vanilla. When the icing is cold, cut the eclairs on one
side, and fill them.

Filling. Put one and a half cups milk in the double boiler. Beat together two-thirds
cup of sugar, one-quarter cup of flour, stir the mixture into the boiling milk. Cook
fifteen minutes, stirring often.

A chocolate icing may be made by putting two squares of scraped chocolate with five
tablespoons of powdered sugar and three of boiling water. Stir over the fire until smooth
and glossy. Dip the top of the eclairs into this, as they come from the oven.

B. FRUIT CAKE WITHOUT BUTTER OR EGGS.

Thirteen ounces of fat pork chopped very fine, one pint of boiling water poured on the
chopped pork ; two cups of sugar, one cup of molasses, one tablespoon of saleratus, one
tablespoon of cloves, one tablespoon of cinnamon, four cups of flour, and one pound of
raisins.

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San Francisco, Aug. 26, 1891

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CAKE. 151

R. FRUIT CAKE, PLAIN.

One cup sugar, one-half cup molasses, two-thirds cup of butter, three eggs, one-half
cup of milk, two even teaspoons soda one cup raisins, one-half cup currants, a little
citron, flour to beat stiff.

R. WEDDING FRUIT CAKE.

One pound sugar, one pound flour, one pound butter, eight eggs, two pounds raisins,
one pound currants, one pound citron, one tablespoon molasses, one cup sour milk, two
even teaspoons soda, one teaspoon each of spices of all kinds ; flour for stiff batter.
Bake two hours in a moderate oven, sprinkling a little flour over the cake, and put on
frosting while the cake is hot.

Frosting. Nine teaspoons sugar to the white of one egg, one teaspoon of powdered
starch, one teaspoon strained lemon juice ; add a little sugar, then beat thin ; add a little
more sugar, beat till it is stiff enough. This cake will keep a year.

R. FEATHER CAKE.

One egg, one cup of sugar, one cup of milk, butter the size of an egg, two teaspoons of
cream tartar, one teaspoon of soda, flour for thin batter. Beat the egg, sugar and butter
to a cream ; then add milk and flour ; mix cream tartar with the flour, and dissolve
the soda in the milk. Bake in a quick oven twenty to thirty minutes. This cake is
simple but excellent.

R. GINGERBREAD.

One cup of molasses, one cup of sour milk or buttermilk, one-half cup of sugar, one-
half cup of butter, one egg, one teaspoon ginger, one teaspoon soda. Mix the egg, sugar,
and butter thoroughly together ; dissolve the soda in the molasses ; add flour enough for
stiff batter ; bake about forty minutes. Excellent.

B. ICE CREAM CAKE.

The whites of eight eggs, two cups of sugar, two cups of sifted flour, one cup of corn-
starch, one cup of butter, one cup of milk, two teaspoons baking powder. Bake in thin
layers.

Preparation to put between the Cakes. The whites of four eggs, four cups of sugar ; pour
half a pint of boiling water over the sugar ; boil until clear, hard and candied ; pour the
boiling hot sugar over the eggs, stirring until a stiff cream, then add a teaspoon of citric
acid or juice of a lemon also flavor with vanilla : when cool, spread between and over the
cakes. This makes a delicious white cake.

JELLY ROLL.

Beat the yolks of four eggs with half a cup of powdered sugar ; beat the whites to a stiff,
dry froth, and add to the yolks and sugar ; add a cup of pastry flour, and stir quickly and

152 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

gently ; bake in a shallow pan twenty minutes. While it is yet warm cut off the edges,
and spread the cake with any kind of jelly ; roll up, and pin a towel around it ; put it in
a cool place till ready to serve ; cut it in slices with a sharp knife.

JUMBLES.

One pint of sugar, half pound of butter, one quart and one jill of flour, one teaspoon of
soda dissolved in one and a half jills of sweet milk, one nutmeg, two teaspoons of cream
of tartar sifted with the flour, four eggs. Stir the butter and sugar until very light, and
beat the eggs one by one ; add the rnilk, nutmeg and flour. The hands must be floured
for molding the jumbles ; make a roll about the size of the little finger, and five inches
long ; lap the ends, and lay in a slightly buttered pan, giving plenty of room, as jumbles
spread very much in baking.

B. LEMON CAKE.

Three eggs, one cup of sugar, one and a half cups flour, even teaspoon cream tartar,
half teaspoon soda, two tablespoons cold water. Bake in layer pans.

Lemon Cream to put between the Cakes. One lemon grated and juice, one cup sugar, two
tablespoons water. Beat all together, and put on the fire and let boil, then spread
between the layers of cake.

P. MARBLE CAKE.

White part : one cup butter, three cups white sugar, beaten to a cream ; one cup sweet
milk, one-half teaspoon soda, five cups flour, whites of eight eggs beaten to a froth added
last. Brown part : one cup butter, three cups brown sugar, beaten together ; one cup
molasses, one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda, the yolks of eight eggs and one egg
besides beaten, four cups flour, spice of all kinds that is liked. Put into the baking-pans
first a layer of the brown part, and then of the white; finish with the brown part. This is
excellent, and makes three or four loaves.

WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE.

Five eggs, beat whites separately, three cups granulated sugar, one cup butter, one cup
sweet milk, three cups flour, one-half teaspoon of soda, two teaspoons cream tartar, a
pinch salt. Beat the butter, sugar, and yolks of the eggs to a cream ; mix the soda in the
milk, and cream tartar in the flour; add the whites of the eggs just before the flour.
Bake in jelly-cake tins, browning lightly. Take the white of one egg, a little sugar and
water, beat together and with a knife spread over the top of each cake, grate one cocoa-
nut and mix it with sugar, sprinkle it over- the cakes, and pile them one on top of the
other, finishing the top in the same way. This is delicious with ice-cream.

CAKE. 153

ORANGE CAKE.

Two cups sugar, one-half cup butter, mixed together; two eggs, three cups flour, one
cup milk, one-half teaspoon soda, teaspoon cream tartar. For the cream, grate the peel
of one orange in the frosting, whip the whites of three eggs, add one cup powdered sugar,
the juice of two oranges. Make six cakes, on jelly tins, spread therewith the frosting, and
put them together, making two loaves of three layers each.

R. OUR CAKE.

One quart flour, two teaspoons baking powder, two cups sugar, one cup butter,
three eggs, one cup milk, a little salt, half a nutmeg, or two teaspoons of vanilla. Bake
thirty to forty minutes in a hot oven.

PINAFORE CAKE.

One cup of butter stirred to a cream, one and a half cups of sugar, half a cup of milk,
one teaspoon of soda in it, four beaten eggs, half a cup of corn starch, one and a half
cups of flour, with two tablespoons of cream tartar in it. Barke in sheets.

P. MY RAISIN CAKE.

One cup of butter, one cup of brown sugar, one cup of molasses, one cup of sweet milk,
three cups of flour, four eggs, two teaspoons baking powder, one pound of raisins seeded
and chopped, one teaspoon each of cassia, cloves and nutmeg. Beat butter and sugar to
a cream, then add beaten eggs, then other ingredients, add raisins last rolled in flour, stir
well. This makes two loaves.

B. RAISED CAKE.

Three cups of bread dough, three cups of flour, three eggs, one cup butter, one teaspoon
of soda; spices and fruit.

P. SPONGE CAKE.

Whites of three eggs, one cup sugar, one cup flour, two tablespoons sweet cream, two
teaspoons baking powder. Beat eggs, add sugar and cream, then baking powder mixed
with flour.

P. SPONGE CAKE.

Whites of five eggs beaten well, half a. tumbler of flour, half a tumbler of white sugar,
haif a teaspoon cream tartar, quarter teaspoon soda ; put the soda and cream tartar in the
eggs before the sugar, and add last. This cake is delicious.

SILVER CAKE.

Two coffee cups of sugar, one-half cup of butter, two and one-half cups flour, three-
quarters cup sweet milk, one-half teaspoon soda, one teaspoon cream tartar, whites of
eight eggs ; flavor with lemon or almond extract ; frost with white icing.

154 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

GOLD CAKE.

One cup sugar, three-quarters cup butter, two cups flour, one-quarter cup sweet milk,
one-half teaspoon soda, one teaspoon cream tartar, the yolks of eight eggs ; frost with
golden icing.

CARAMEL FROSTING.

Scrape fine one square of chocolate, add one cup of brown sugar, put these with one tablespoon of water
in a saucepan. Simmer gently twenty minutes, being careful not to let it burn. Spread on the cake while
hot.

GOLDEN FROSTING.

Stir the yolks of two eggs with enough powdered sugar to thicken, and flavor with lemon. The flavor is
not so good as other kinds of frosting, but it makes a change.

MARKING CAKES IN GOLD.

Bake round cakes for the children, and when the frosting on them is hard, dip a small brush into the yolk
of an egg and write a word or name upon the cake. It pleases the little ones very much.

WHITE FROSTING.

Over one pound of the best white sugar, pour just enough water to dissolve the lumps. Take the whites of
three eggs and beat them a little, but not to a stiff froth, and add these to the sugar and water. Put it in a
deep bowl, and place in a vessel of boiling water, and beat the mixture. It will at first become thin and clear.
When it becomes quite thick, remove from the fire and continue the beating, until it becomes quite cold and
thick. Then spread it on with a knife. It will be perfectly white.

FROSTING.

To the white of one egg add a teacup of powdered sugar by degrees, beating with a spoon. When all has
been added, stir in a tablespoon of lemon juice. If the white of the egg is large it will require a very full cup
of sugar, and if small, a rather scant cup. The egg must not be beaten until the sugar is added. This gives
a smooth, tender frosting, which will cover one small sheet of cake. The same amount of ingredients, prepared
with the whites of the eggs unbeaten, will make one-third less frosting than it will if the eggs are beaten to a
stiff froth before adding the sugar; but the icing will be enough smoother and softer to pay for the extra
quantity. It may be flavored with half a teaspoon of vanilla.

CHOCOLATE ICING.

Beat one and two-thirds cup of sugar into the unbeaten whites of two eggs. Scrape two squares of Baker's
chocolate and put it with one-third of a cup sugar and four tablespoons of boiling water into a small frying-pan.
Stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy, and then stir into the beaten whites and sugar. With the quantity
given two sheets of cake can be iced.

PASTRY.

Two pints of flour, one and a half pints of butter, chopped in the flour ; a half pint of cold water. Mix
with a knife. The dough should be dry and handled as little as possible, keep it very cold ; roll out and bake
in a quick oven.

TART PASTE.

Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour ; add the yolk of an egg, a little lump of sugar, and
enough milk to mix it properly.

PUFF PASTE.

One quart of pastry flour, one pint butter, one tablespoon salt, one tablespoon sugar, one and a quarter
cups ice-water. Fill a large pan or bowl with boiling water, and a moment later substitute cold water, leaving
the bowl half full. Wash the pint of butter in this water, and work with the hands until light and wavy ; this
frees it from buttermilk and salt and lightening it, so that the pastry will be more delicate. After shaping the
butter into two thin cakes, put it in a pan of ice-water to harden. Mix the flour, sugar and salt together, and
with the hands rub a third of the butter into the flour ; add the water, stirring with a knife, and continue
stirring quickly and vigorously until the paste becomes a smooth ball. Sprinkle the molding-board lightly
with flour ; turn the paste on the board and pound it quickly and lightly with the rolling-pin. Be careful not
to break the paste. Roll from you and to one side ; or if you prefer to roll from you all the while, turn the
paste round. When it has been rolled down to the thickness of about quarter of an inch wipe the remaining
butter, break it into bits and spread these on the paste. A light sprinkling of flour should follow, and the
paste should be folded, one-third from each side, so that the edges meet. Next fold from the ends, but do not
have these meet. Double the paste, pound lightly, and roll down to the thickness of about a third of an inch.
Fold as before and roll down again. Repeat the operation three times for pies, and six vol-au-vents, patties
or tarts. When it has been rolled the last time place upon ice. It should remain at least an hour in the ice-
chest before it is used. In hot weather if the paste sticks when being rolled, put it on a tin sheet and on ice.
As soon as it has been chilled it will roll easily. The smaller the quantity of flour used when rolling the
better the paste will be ; indeed, no matter how carefully all the work is done, the paste will not be good if
much flour be used.

APPLE PIE.

Make a thick sliced apple pie, seasoning with cinnamon or nutmeg, and a little butter.
No sugar. Make a small opening in the centre of the upper crust. Bake until thoroughly
done. Cook one cup or one and a half cups sugar, according to the sourness of the
apples, till it becomes a syrup, adding water, as necessary, lest it be too thick. When
the pie is done, but still hot, pour the syrup carefully through the opening in the crust.

APPLE LEMON PIE.

Rind and juice of one lemon, piece of butter size of a walnut, two apples chopped fine,
one egg, one cup of sugar. Bake with upper crust.

BLACKBERRY PIE.

Line a pie-dish with pastry and fill with ripe berries, sweetening plentifully. Cover
with paste and bake in a moderate oven. Eat cold with white sugar sifted over it.

155

156 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

CHERRY PIE.

Line the pie-dish with paste ; fill with a mixture of sour and sweet cherries ; sweeten
plentifully ; cover with paste printed at the edge and slit in the middle, and bake a light
brown. Eat fresh, but not warm, with white sugar sifted over the top.

B. CURRANT PIE.

One cup of washed currants, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon of flour, yolks of two
eggs, use the whites of eggs same as lemon meringue pie.

CREAM PIE.

Three cups of milk, two eggs, two tablespoons of corn-starch, butter the size of a walnut,
a pinch of salt, two tablespoons of sugar. Have the crust ready baked. Then scald one
and one-half cups of the milk, with the butter and salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs with
the corn-starch and the other one-half cups of milk, with one teaspoon lemon extract.
Put it in the crust and bake till done. Then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth
with a little sugar, and spread over the pie. Return it to the oven and brown slightly.

BOSTON CREAM PIE.

One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, four eggs. Beat the yolks and sugar together to a
cream, add the flour, then the whites well beaten, and one teaspoon of milk with one of
baking powder. Bake in round tins so that the cake will be one inch and a half thick.
For the custard, take two eggs beaten separately, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon of corn-
starch, add a little cold milk, then turn the mixture into less than a pint of scalding milk,
and stir constantly until cooked. When the cake is cold, spread with the custard. Flavor
with vanilla or lemon.

FRUIT PIES IN SEASON.

Have the fruit ready ; line with pastry the sides only of a deep dish, yellow-ware pre
ferred, but an ordinary cake-tin will do; place a small cup in the centre of the dish one
that will sit flat with the rim down; pour the berries or fruit all round the cup; pile as-high
as means will allow ; cover thickly with sugar ; cover with pastry ; make one or two little
slits in it for the steam to escape, and bake a light brown. When serving, remove
a piece of the top crust, and insert a knife under the rim of the cup and raise it. It will be
found to be full of the richest juice, which generally runs over in the oven from the flat
pies. This does away with the soggy bottom crust, and will keep a day or two. Fruit is
always better mixed for pies ; such as strawberries and cherries, raspberries and carrants
etc. Always stone the cherries.

LEMON MERINGUE PIE.

One lemon, grate the rind and squeeze the juice, one tablespoon of corn-starch dis-
solved in cold water, one cup of sugar, one egg, piece of butter size of an egg, one cup

PASTRY. 157

of hot -yater ; boil a few minutes, bake on an under crust. Make a meringue of the
whites of two eggs and two tablespoons of pulverized sugar, beaten to a stiff froth. Put it
on the top of the pie after it is baked, and return to the oven a few minutes until it is a
light brown.

RICH MINCE-MEAT.

One cup chopped beef or fresh tongue, one and a half cups of raisins, one and a half
cups of currants, one and a half cups brown sugar, one cup of granulated sugar, three
cups of chopped apples, two teaspoons of cinnamon, half a teaspoon of mace, half a tea-
spoon of powdered cloves, half a cup of sliced citron, half a cup. of brandy, half a cup of
wine, one cup of cider, one orange rind and juice, one cup chopped suet. Mix in the
order given, and after it is all well mixed let it stand a few days before using so that it may
become well flavored.

PUMPKIN PIE.

One quart stewed pumpkin, rubbed through a fine colander; six eggs; two quarts of
milk; one teaspoon of mace; one teaspoon of cinnamon and the same of nutmeg; one and
one-half cups of sugar. Beat the eggs light and whip in the sugar, then the pumpkin and
spice. At last mix in the milk, stirring up well from the bottom. Bake in open shells of
pie-crust. Eat cold.

SQUASH PIES.

rive pints of stewed and strained squash, two quarts of boiling milk, one and a half
nutmeg, four teaspoons of salt, five cups of sugar, nine eggs, four tablespoons of Sicily
Madeira and two of rose-water. Gradually pour the boiling milk on the squash, and stir
continually. Add the nutmeg, rose-water and sugar. When cold, add the eggs, well
beaten, and just before the mixture is put in the plates, add the Madeira. Butter deep
plates and line with a plain paste. Fill with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven
for forty minutes.

WASHINGTON PIE.

One teacup of sugar rubbed to a cream with butter of the size of an egg. Beat four
eggs separately, and stir in one heaping cup,of sifted flour, with a full teaspoon of cream-
tartar, and one teaspoon of soda dissolved in one small teaspoon of milk. Divide the
mixture on two shallow tin plates well buttered; put in a moderate oven. When baked,
put preserves or jelly between the cakes; and, when on the plate, sprinkle some fine pow-
dered sugar over the upper cake.

T. PIES AT A MOMENT'S NOTICE.

Bake under crust, or open shells of puff paste, or flaky pie-crust. Keep them in a dry,
cool place. When wanted, fill with stewed fruit, preserves or jam of any kind. It is a
dainty and delicious pie.

PUDDINGS.

A mould, a basin, or a pudding-cloth, will be required for boiled or steamed puddings. The mould should
have a close cover, and be rubbed over the inside with butter before putting the pudding in it, that it may not.
stick to the side ; the cloth should be dipped in boiling water, and then well floured on the inside. A pudding-
cloth must be kept clean and in a dry place. The water must be boiling hot when the pudding is put in, and
continue to boil until it is done. If a pudding is boiled in a cloth it must be moved frequently whilst boiling,
otherwise it will stick to the saucepan. There must always be water enough to cover the pudding if it is
boiled in a cloth ; but if boiled in a tin mould, do not let the water quite reach the top. To boil a pudding in
a basin, dip a cloth in hot water, dredge it with flour, and tie it closely over the basin. When the pudding is
done, take it from the water, plunge whatever it is boiling in, whether cloth or basin, suddenly into cold water,
then turn it out immediately ; this will prevent its sticking. If there is any delay in serving the pudding, cover
it with a napkin, or the cloth in which it was boiled ; but it is better to serve it as soon as removed from the
cloth, basin or mould.

Gelatine should be soaked in an equal quantity of cold water for an hour. Tapioca washed and soaked in
cold water over night, or in lukewarm until thoroughly soaked.

APPLE BUTTER ROLL.

Make dough as for biscuit, only a little shorter, roll until one-half inch thick, spread
with apple butter, roll up, then put a cloth around it, tie at each end with a string, leav-
ing the cloth loose enough to have room to rise, and boil it one hour, or one hour and
a quarter if large. It is to be rolled the same way as jelly roll, and eaten warm
with sweet cream. Cherries and berries can be used instead of apples.

APPLE SOUFFLE PUDDING.

Take six or seven fine juicy apples, one cup fine bread-crumbs, four eggs, one cup
sugar, two tablespoons butter, nutmeg, and a little grated lemon peel. Pare, core and
slice the apples, and stew in a covered double saucepan, without a drop of water, until they
are tender. Mash to a smooth pulp, and, while hot, stir in the butter and sugar. Let it
get quite cold, and whip in first the yolks of the eggs, then the whites beaten very stiff
alternately with the bread-crumbs. Flavor, beat quickly three minutes, until all the
ingredients are reduced to a creamy batter, and bake in a buttered dish in a moderate
oven. It will take about an hour to cook properly. Keep covered until ten minutes
before you take it out. This will retain the juices and prevent the formation of a crust
on the top.

APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING.

One teacup tapioca; six apples, juicy and well-flavored, pared and cored; one quart
water, one teaspoon salt. Cover the tapioca with three cups of lukewarm water and set in
a warm place to soak thoroughly, stirring now and then. Place the apples in a deep
158

PUDDINGS. 159

dish, adding a cup of lukewarm water; cover closely and steam in a moderate oven until
soft all through, turning them if they cook at the bottom. If the dish is more than a third
full of liquid, turn some of it out before you pour the soaked tapioca overall. Unless the
apples are very sweet, fill the centre with sugar. Bake, after the tapioca goes in, one
hour. Eat cold with cream, or warm with hard sweet sauce.

R. BAKED APPLE PUDDING.

One quart flour, two heaping teaspoons baking powder, butter size of an egg, milk
enough to mix it to roll, stir baking powder well into the flour, work the butter into the
flour, add the milk slowly, being careful not to get it too soft. Roll out two-thirds of it
for the bottom and sides of a deep baking dish holding not over one quart. Fill it with
sliced sour apples. Cover it with the remaining crust, cutting a hole in the centre, through
which pour two tablespoons of water just before putting in the oven. Bake forty minutes,
or until the apple is thoroughly cooked. Serve with your favorite pudding-sauce. This
is better and more healthful than apple-pie.

BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS.

Pare and core smooth apples of uniform size, and fill the cavity of each with sugar and
a little cinnamon. Divide the paste into as many parts as there are apples; roll each piece
out square, and enclose an apple in it, slightly wetting the edges to make them slide.
Bake in shallow pans, steam or boil, and serve with hard sauce.

R. CUSTARD PUDDING.

Six eggs, one quart milk, six teaspoons sugar, heaped, salt and nutmeg to taste. Bake
thirty minutes.

R. INDIAN PUDDING.

One quart boiling milk, one teacup white corn-meal, one quart cold milk, three eggs, one
cup sugar, one small teaspoon salt, butter size of a hen's egg, a little nutmeg. Stir the
meal carefully into the boiling milk, letting it fall slowly through the fingers; there must
be no lumps; beat the eggs and mix them with the cold milk; let the meal cook in the
milk about five minutes, then put into a baking dish, and add the other ingredients, the
cold milk and eggs last. Bake slowly about two hours; if properly baked it is delicate
and delicious. It can be easily spoiled by baking in too hot an oven. Raisins improve it.

DELICIOUS FRUIT PUDDING.

Line a mould with slices of sponge cake, then put in a layer of fruit, strawberries, rasp-
berries, blackberries, currants or ripe pineapple torn into bits rich, tart, ripe fruit is best;
put over this a layer of hot custard, then another layer of cake and another of fruit and of
custard until the mould is full; put away to get cold and firm and serve when turned out of
the mould with sugar and cream; for the custard bring to boiling point in a farina kettle a

160 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

pint of milk; add an ounce and a half of dissolved gelatine, the yolks of four eggs and
four ounces of sugar. When the custard has thickened be sure it doesn't curdle take
it off the fire and stir in half a pint of cream and the juice of a lemon.

LEMMON PUDDING.

Three eggs, one scant cup of sugar, two liberal teaspoons of corn-starch, one lemon,
juice and rind; two cups of milk, one heaping teaspoon of butter. Scald the milk, and
stir in the corn-starch wet up in four teaspoons of cold water. Cook stirring all the
time until it thickens well; add the butter, and set aside until perfectly cold; then beat
the eggs light, add the sugar, the lemon juice and grated peel, and whip in, a great
spoonful at a time, the stiffened corn-starch milk. Bake in a buttered dish and eat cold.

P. ORANGE PUDDING.

Two oranges sliced, one cup sugar sprinkled on them, yolks of two eggs, two table-
spoons corn-starch, and half a cup of sugar stirred in one pint milk; cook and turn on the
oranges, then beat the whites of two eggs with a little sugar. Turn on top and brown in
the oven.

QUINCE ICED PUDDING.

Three eggs beaten very light, add a cup and a half of sugar, and continue beating until
the mixture is foamy. Two cups of sifted pastry flour put into a teaspoon of cream-
tartar, and a half teaspoon of soda with half a cup of cold water stirred into the beaten
egg and sugar, and the flour sifted into the same bowl. A double oval mould,
tapering, should be used, about four inches high, and the measurement at the top
where it opens, six inches by eight. The space between the outer and inner walls is
about an inch and a half. When the mould has been buttered the cake mixture should be
turned into it, and baked slowly twenty minutes. Allow it. to stand in the mould until nearly
cold, and then turn out on a flat dish. Into the whites of two eggs beat a cup of pow-
dered sugar, seasoned with half a teaspoon of vanilla extract. The cake should be iced
with this and set away. In the meantime a generous quart of cream, a cup of sugar, a
pint of soft custard and a tablespoon of vanilla extract and combine and freeze like ice
ream. A large tumbler of quince jelly should be spread on the inside of the cake, and
(he frozen cream put in the centre ; whipped cream should be heaped on the top
and at the base, making an elegant dish. The ice cream should not be put into the pud-
ding until just before it is to be served.

R. RICE PUDDING.

Three-fourths of a cup of rice, one-half cup of sugar, two teaspoons of vanilla,
two quarts of milk, salt to taste. Nutmeg or raisins can be used for flavoring instead of
vanilla. It requires one-half cup of raisins. Bake in pudding-dish about two hours,

PUDDINGS. 161

slowly, and take out immediately when the rice is done. This can be ascertained only by
tasting. Do not stir the rice. If properly baked it will be creamy and delicious. If
baked in too hot an oven, or too long-, it will be spoiled.

T. MY MOTHER'S RICE PUDDING.

One pint of rice thoroughly washed, rubbing it well through several waters; mix with it
half a pint of good-sized clean raisins; put it in a conical pudding-bag. Boil three-quar-
ters of an hour. To be eaten hot with sauce, a gill of butter well-creamed, and beaten
until light, with two gills of brown sugar. Serve with nutmeg thickly grated over the
peaks.

To prepare a pudding-bag, sew firmly strong canvas in the shape of a sugar-loaf; sew within four inches
of the top a strong string. Before putting in the pudding dip the bag in boiling water, turn the bag on the
wrong side, and dredge it well with flour. Have ready a pot of water boiling hard, slightly salted; put in the
pudding, allowing one-third room for swelling, and tie firmly. Turn a plate in the bottom of the pot, and be
sure that there is enough boiling water to completely cover it. Keep the teakettle boiling all the while the
pudding is in the pot, and fill up often. Fifteen minutes after the pudding is put in turn it over in the pot.

I?. RICE MERINGUE PUDDING.

Half a cup of rice boiled to a pulp, one pint of milk, yolks of four eggs, grated rind
of one large lemon, or two small ones. Bake lightly in moderate oven the same as a
custard. When cold add the meringue which consists of the whites of four eggs, the
juice of the lemon, and one pint of powdered sugar, well beaten, which spread over the
top and return it to the oven until it has browned and formed a crust.

R. CORN-STARCH PUDDING.

One quart of milk, four tablespoons of corn-starch heaped a little, one egg, salt to taste.
Beat the egg and add to it a little of the cold milk and the corn-starch ; mix thoroughly;
put the rest of the milk in a kettle and let it come to a boil; stir in the mixture, and con-
tinue to stir till it boils; let it boil four minutes. It is good either warm or cold, and is to
be eaten with milk or cream, with sugar for those who like; jelly is often eaten with it
also. It is much better made in this simple way than in the usual way one finds it prepared.

CUSTARD FOR PUDDINGS.

Heat in a saucepan till nearly boiling a pint of new milk; beat together in a basin the
yolks of two eggs, a little cream and some pulverized loaf-sugar. Over these pour the hot
milk, and then pour it from the basin into the saucepan and back again until thoroughly
mixed. Lastly, stir it over the fire till nearly boiling. It can be used on puddings, fruit
pies, or served cold in a glass dish, with nutmeg grated over it.

i6 2 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

FRITTERS.

Beat three eggs well together, add alternately flour and milk, salted, till a pint of each
be used, beating quickly all the time. To the above add immediately a pint of pre-
served fruit and drop spoonfuls into boiling hot lard. If oysters or clams be used, chop,
not too fine, about twenty-five, and mix as above. So of green corn, ripe or canned ap-
ples, pears, cored and halved, or stoned peaches. When the fritters are done and
drained, sprinkle sugar over them.

FRUIT CUSTARD FRITTERS.

For fruit syrup use either the juice of any canned or preserved fruit, or make a syrup of
fresh fruit as follows: Pick over a pound of any juicy fruit, put it into the preserving ket-
tle with a pound of granulated sugar, boil it until the sugar is all dissolved and the juice
of the fruit runs freely; then strain the syrup through a fine sieve or a jelly-bag, and cool
it before using it for the fritters. Put into an earthen bowl half a pint each of fruit syrup
and milk, and mix them thoroughly with an egg whip; then add half a pound of granu-
lated sugar and six eggs, one at a time, beating the mixture constantly while the eggs are
being added; strain the custard thus made, put it into a shallow earthen dish large enough
to make the custard an inch thick; set the dish in a pan of hot water and put it into a
moderate oven; watch the custard, and occasionally test it by running a small knife blade
or a broom straw into it; as soon as it does not adhere to the knife or straw it is done;
take the custard from the oven, and cool it in the dish in which it was baked. When the
custard is cool put over the fire a fry ing-kettle half full of fat to heat; turn the custard
from the dish upon a pastry board covered thickly with fine bread-crumbs, and cut it in
pieces about two inches long and one inch wide, or in any fanciful shape; roll the pieces
of custard in the crumbs, dip them in beaten egg, and again in the crumbs, and then fry
them golden brown in the hot fat, putting them in when it begins to smoke; when the
fritters are fried a golden brown take them out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them on
brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, and then dust them with powdered
sugar and serve them hot.

FLORIDA ORANGE FRITTERS.

Peel and slice two or three oranges, about quarter of an inch thick, and remove the
seeds, taking care not to break the slices or squeeze out the juice; put a frying-kettle over
the fire, with enough fat to half fill it, and let the fat get smoking hot; put a cup of flour
into a bowl with the yolk of a raw egg, a level teaspoon of salt and a tablespoon of
good olive oil; mix these ingredients smoothly together, then gradually stir in enough
water to make a batter thick enough to hold a drop let fall from the mixing spoon; beat
the white of the egg to a stiff froth, mix it lightly with the batter; put two or three
slices of oranges in the batter, and when the fat begins to smoke lift them from the batter
with a fork, drop them into the hot fat, and try them golden brown; take the fritters out
of the fat with a skimmer, lay them for a moment on brown paper to free them from
grease, and then dust them with powdered sugar, and serve them hot.

SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS.

R. BRANDY SAUCE.

Put quarter of a pound of butter into a large bowl and beat it with a fork unth it is
smooth and soft, gradually mix with the butter a cup of powdered sugar, beating con-
stantly; when all the sugar has been beaten into the butter add the white of an egg un-
beaten and beat the mixture for a minute, next place the bowl in a basin of warm water,
gradually add half a gill each of brandy and boiling water, and beat the sauce for two
minutes longer, then pour it into a sauce-bowl.

CREAM SAUCE.

Beat a half cup of fresh butter to a cream, add gradually a cup of powdered sugar,
beating thoroughly all the while; when all is reduced to a light, creamy substance, add
gradually, and still beating, a quarter of a cup of rich cream and a teaspoon of vanilla
extract. This is inviting and delicious.

NUN'S BUTTER.

Beat and stir a quarter of a pound of butter and three or four ounces of the finest pul-
verized sugar together to a cream; add and stir well in a tablespoon of brandy and flour,
and flavor with pure vanilla extract, or grated nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon.

HARD SAUCE.

Beat one quarter ot a pound of butter to a cream, add gradually one pound of white
sugar, one wineglass brandy, and half a small nutmeg; beat until light and white, and
then pile up in a pyramid; set it on ice or a cool place.

SABYLLON.

Beat two yolks and one whole egg a few minutes with a scant half teacup of sugar in a
small saucepan; place the saucepan into another containing boiling water over a fire; beat
briskly with a whisk while you pour in gradually a scant half teacup of sherry ; when the
eggs begin to thicken remove and add the juice of half of a lemon.

SOUR SAUCE.

Half a cup of butter and stir in a tablespoon of flour and one pint boiling water, nearly
one cup of sugar, two spoons good vinegar; spice to taste.

STRAWBERRY SAUCE.

)ne cup sugar, half cup butter; beat them well together and add a cup of strawberries,
well mashed.
R. WINE SAUCE.

One half pint of Madeira wine, one-fourth pint of sugar, yolks of six eggs, dessert-spoon
of lemon juice or vanilla to taste. Dissolve the sugar in the wine; make it hot but do not
let it boil; pour it hot over the yolks of the eggs well beaten; keep it over the fire until it
is well thickened and highly frothed, then add the flavoring.

163

DESSERT.

There's half a dozen sweets.

LOVE'S LABOR LOST.
The hero is not fed on sweets,
Daily his own heart he eats.

EMERSON.
AMBROSIA.

One pine-apple chopped quite fine, half box of strawberries, six bananas and six oranges
sliced and the slices quartered, one lemon cut fine. Sweeten to taste ; add one wineglass
of sherry or Madeira, and set away until very cold.

BLANC-MANGE.

One tablespoon and a half of sea-moss farina, three pints of milk, four tablespoons of
sugar, half a teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of extract of vanilla or of lemon. Put the farina
with the milk and let it stand in a cold place for two hours ; then put it in the double
boiler, and heat quickly. Do not let it boil. Stir often; and as soon as the farina is melted,
take off, and add the sugar, salt and flavor. Strain and partially cool before putting it
into the moulds. It should stand six hours before serving, and it is even better, especially
in summer, to make it the day before using.

CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE CUSTARD.

Chocolate and coffee custards are made by incorporating chocolate with, or adding
strong coffee to, the milk which enters into custard.

BAVARIAN CREAM.

Whip a pint of cold cream to a froth, which will lie on a sieve. Boil another pint of
cream, or rich milk, with a vanilfa bean and two tablespoons of sugar, until it is well
flavored. Remove it and add half a box of gelatine, which has soaked an hour in half a
cup of water in a warm place. When slightly cooled stir in the well-beaten yolks of four
eggs. When it has become quite cold and begins to thicken, stir without cessation until
it is very smooth. Then stir in the whipped cream lightly until well mixed. Place in
moulds and set on ice, or in a cool spot. To this you can add almonds, chocolate, peaches,
pine-apples, strawberries, or any seasonable fruit.

BOILED CUSTARD.

Beat the yolks of five eggs and five dessert-spoons of sugar to a froth, and stir into a
quart of boiled milk. Put into a double custard boiler, of boiling water, stirring con-
stantly till thickening commences. If it be well stirred, the custard will be a smooth
cream ; but not otherwise. Add flavors after it is cooked; except a vanilla bean, or peach
leaves, which cook with the custard.

BOSTON BAKED CUSTARD.

Pour a quart of hot milk over five well-beaten eggs. Add a teaspoon of butter. Season
with vanilla, rose water, or nutmeg, and sweeten to taste. Bake in cups or pudding dish.
164

DESSERT. 165

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Dissolve one ounce of good isinglass in a cup of new milk ; beat the yolks of six eggs
and one pound of fine sugar together ; whip to a froth one pint of good cream, and beat
to a froth the whites of twelve eggs. Strain the isinglass into the yolks ; add the cream,
then the whites, and beat it altogether lightly. Flavor it with vanilla ; set it on the ice to
stiffen a little; line the moulds with spongecake; turn in the cream, and set in the ice five
or six hours.
R. FLOATING ISLAND.

One pint milk, three eggs, three heaping teaspoons sugar. Beat the yolks of the eggs
well; add the milk and heat while stirring till it thickens a little like cream; then remove
it at once; beat the whites of the eggs to a froth, put on the top of the custard in round
shapes like little islands, and set in a cool place. Sometimes the froth is set in the
oven an instant to stiffen it so that it will better keep in place. To be eaten cold.

"HOME PYRAMID OF KISSES."

Make a pasteboard frame, and stick the kisses together as fast as they come from the
oven; as soon as cold, or just before using, remove the form carefully.

FRUIT GLACE.

Boil together for half an hour, one cup of granulated sugar and the juice of a lemon;
dip the point of a skewer into the syrup and then into water, and if the thread thus formed
breaks off brittle, the syrup is ready for the use on fruit. Pare some oranges, divide them
into eighths, and wipe the parts free from moisture; part of the syrup turn into a small cup,
which put in a basin of boiling water; take the pieces of orange up separately on the point
of a skewer and dip them into the syrup, and afterwards place on a dish that had been
buttered slightly. Grapes and nuts can be prepared the same way. Special pains must
be taken to avoid stirring the syrup, for stirring will spoil it.

B. RUSSIAN CREAM.

Half a box of best gelatine, cover with cold water fifteen minutes, one quart of milk,
four eggs, one cup of sugar; beat yolks and sugar together, stir in the gelatine and pour
into the milk when boiling; let it cook a little more than custard; let it cool a little and
stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth and pour into moulds, rinsed in cold
water, and place them on the ice. When ready to serve, loosen the edge, lay a small
platter over the mould, and turn it upside down; shake the mould if the cream does not
come out easily, but be careful to keep it in the centre of the platter.

B. TAPIOCA CREAM.

Four tablespoons tapioca soaked over night in one gill of cold water, boil one quart of
milk, add the tapioca, let it boil, add the yolks of three eggs beaten well with half pint of
crushed sugar, boil and stir until like thick custard, flavor and turn into a dish; when
cold, cover with the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth with four tablespoons of
sugar; brown lightly. To be eaten cold.

ICES.

PREPARATION SUITABLE FOR ALL ICE CREAMS.

This foundation is suitable for all kinds of ice cream. Having heated a generous pint of milk to the boil-
point, stir into it a cup of sugar, a scant cup of flour and two eggs, all beaten together ; and the mixture
allowed to cook twenty minutes longer, stirring it frequently. Strain the mixture into the freezer

DIRECTIONS FOR PACKING ICE CREAM.

The ice should be broken the size of a walnut. After the can containing the cream has been
properly adjusted in the freezer, a layer of ice five inches deep should be packed around it.
A liberal sprinkling of rock salt should be added next. Continue with alternate layers of ice and salt
until the tub is full ; the packing being pounded with a paddle. The crank of the freezer being turned a
few times, causes the ice to settle somewhat, and more should be added. For if the packing be solid
at first there need be no repacking. Especial stress is laid on the fact that the water must not be drawn
off. It fills all the crevices and gives the can a complete cold envelope. For a gallon freezer about ten
quarts of ice and three pints of salt are required. With more salt it will take less time to freeze, but the
cream will not be so smooth. At first the crank should not be turned very fast, but the speed should be
increased as the work becomes harder. When the cream is frozen as indicated by the extreme difficulty
with which the crank is turned wipe the salt and ice from the cover of the can and remove the cover without
displacing the can itself. Remove the beater and scrape the ice cream from it. With a large spoon work up
and down in the can until the cream is light, and the space left vacant by the removal of the beater is filled.
Replace the cover of the can, put a cork in the hole from which the handle of the beater was taken. Set the
freezer in a cool place. When the cream is to be served, place the can for a few seconds in a pan of warm
water so that the heat causes the cream to slip out easily upon a dish. If the cream is to be moulded, it should
be removed from the can when the beater is taken out ; and when it is put into the mould it should be worked
up and down with a spoon, so that it shall be lightened, and worked into every part of the mould as well. A
sheet of white paper should be placed over the cream before the cover of the mould is put on, and the mould
should be repacked in fresh ice and salt.

CARAMEL ICE CREAM.

Put a small cup of sugar into a small frying-pan and stir over the fire until it turns liquid and begins to
smoke, then turn it into the boiling mixture or foundation, which put away to cool. When it becomes cold
Add a quart of cream. The flavor of the ice cream can be varied by browning the sugar more or less. Strain
the mixture in a freezer.

COFFEE ICE CREAM.

Pound two ounces of freshly roasted coffee in a mortar, just enough to thoroughly crush
the berries without reducing them to powder. Put them into a pint of milk with six
ounces of loaf sugar ; let boil, then leave it to get cold; strain it on the yolks of six
eggs in a double kettle, and stir on the fire until the custard thickens. Be sure that
it does not curdle. When quite cold work into it a gill and a half of cream whipped
to a froth. Freeze the mixture in the ice-cream freezer, then fill a plain mould with it
and put it in the freezer till time to serve it. This is a delicious dessert in hot weather.

B. LEMON ICE CREAM.

Half a box of gelatine dissolved in a little water, strain and pour over half a
pint of boiling milk, add one quart of cream, two quarts of milk. The rind of a lemon
grated in while boiling; juice added while it is freezing.
166

ICES. 167

PEACH ICE CREAM.

Select rich, ripe peaches, peel and mash them to a pulp; make them very sweet; a
pound or more of sugar to a pound of fruit, and add to every pint a pint of cream.
Remember in using sugar that much sweetness is lost in the freezing. Coddled apples
may be used in the same way.

PINE-APPLE ICE CREAM.
Choose a very ripe pine-apple, pare it, take out all the eyes, then grate it, and make after

the above rule.

PISTACHE ICE CREAM.

To prepare pistache nuts for ice cream, pour boiling water over them; let them stand
a few moments, drain, and cover again with boiling water, when the skins will slip off
quite easily. They are then pounded to a paste in a mortar and mixed with the cream.

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM.

Pour a pint of scalding milk on a well-beaten egg and an even tablespoon of corn-
starch mixed smooth in a little cold milk ; stir it over boiling water until it begins to
thicken; when cold, mix it with a pint of strawberries that have been mashed with a half
pound of sugar and rubbed through a colander.

CURRANT ICE.

To one pint of currant juice add one pound of sugar, and one pint of water; when
partly frozen, add the whites of three eggs whisked to a stiff froth.

LEMON ICE.

To one pint of lemon juice add one quart of sugar, and one quart of water in which
the thin rind of three lemons has been steeped until highly flavored; when partly frozen,
add the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

ORANGE ICE.

Grate the rind of four oranges and steep it ten minutes in a pint and a gill of water;
strain a pint of the water on one pound of sugar, add a pint of orange juice, and when
cold, pour it into a freezer, and freeze; when half frozen, add the whites of four eggs

whisked to a stiff froth.

PINE-APPLE ICE.

Pare good, ripe pine-apples and cut out the eyes; grate them and pass the pulp through
the colander; to one quart of this add one and a quarter pounds of sugar and one pint
of water; whisk the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth and add the above little by little,
beating well to make them mix; freeze.

STRAWBERRY ICE.

Crush two quarts of strawberries with two pounds of sugar; let them stand an hour
or more, squeeze them in a straining cloth, pressing out all the juice; add to it an equal
measure of water, and when half frozen add the whisked whites in the proportion of three

to a quart.

TUTTI FRUTTI.

Rich vanilla cream with cherries, raisins, currants and citron. Fruit to be added when
the cream is nearly frozen.

BEVERAGES.

TEA.

T He W A TeR B oI LING . B e
FILLING . T He . T e A . P o T . SP^LS . TH e T e A. " Molly, put the kettle on,

Molly, put the kettle on,
Molly, put the kettle on,
And we'll all take tea."

" The water in which the tea is steeped must be boiling.
The water used for filling the pot must be boiling.

I speak within bounds when I say that I could tell on the fingers of my two hands the tables at which I
have drunk really good, hot, frech tea. Sometimes it is made with boiling water, then allowed to simmer on
the range or hob until the decoction is rank, reedy and bitter. Sometimes too little tea is put in, and the
beverage, while hot enough, is but faintly colored and flavored.

Oftenest of all, the tea is made with unboiled water, or with water that did boil once, but is now flat and
many degrees below the point of ebullition.

Scald the china, or silver, or tin teapot from which the beverage is to flow directly into the cups ; put in
an even teaspoon of tea for each person who is to partake of it, pour in a half-cup of boiling water and cover
the pot with a cozy or napkin for five minutes. Then, fill up with boiling water from the kettle and take to
the table. Fill the cups within three minutes or so and you have the fresh aroma of the delicious herb."

BEAUTY BEHIND THE TEAPOT.

The teapot simmers in scores of houses every afternoon, and tea-drinking is now the popular mania and
dissipation. In some houses one member of the family is generally kept busy occupied all the afternoon in
making and pouring tea, and of Miss Tillie Frelinghuysen, who is always enthroned behind her tea-table at
entertainments in her father's house, Mr. George Bancroft says that she is entitled to a coat-of-arms all her
own, bearing the device of a teapot. A pretty woman never looks better than when seated behind a tea-table,
set with a shining equipage and rows of dainty cups. English breakfast tea is the fashionable leaf now, and
as many of the fair brewers say, there is more pleasure in making than in drinking that herb-flavored stuff.
In general the tea is steeped in a small silver pot and made of triple strength, so that each cup has to be filled
up with boiling water from the silver or brass teapot that is always steaming over an alcohol lamp in the
middle of the table. Mrs. Ilitt and Mrs. Adams, whose teas are famous, make each cup separately, the dry
tea leaves being put in a perforated silver ball pendent from a long chain. The ball is dropped in the cup,
boiling water poured in and the tea ball is stirred about until the decoction assumes the right color and
strength. This is quite the prettiest way of making tea, and girls who appreciate the chance for coquetries
and tableaux that the rite affords, are enamored with the tea ball, providing always that there is some gallant
man about to handle the burning silver when it is necessary to empty and refill the ball. Huge brass somovars
for boiling water on the table have been brought over from Russia for several families, but the bother of
lighting the charcoal in the central cylinder and getting steam up in time renders them really a nuisance to the
owners. The wife of the Russian Minister banishes the somovar from her tea-table and substitutes a pretty
silver pot over an alcohol flame. Washington Letter.
1 68

BEVERAGES. 169

THE STYLE IN TEA.

CHEESE STRAWS AND SALTED ALMONDS.

There are some conservatives who still take sugar and even cream in their tea, but these heresies are fast
giving way to the newer styles. The real connoisseur takes his tea without any modifications, and fashion,
although it allows a lump of sugar, rather ordains a slice of lemon or a spoonful of preserves, according to
Russian style. About half the people who sip tea these afternoons do it because it is the fashion, and not
because they care for the drink itself. Last season the cheese straws were prominent on every tea table, and
the indigestible little strips of pie-crust filled with grated cheese and sprinkled with red pepper were supposed
to be just the thing to spur up a jaded appetite. This year the salted almond is the favorite dish of the after-
noon nibblers, and confectioners are doing a great business in roasting almonds and then turning them over in
a pan with a little butter and a great deal of salt. A man who knows tells me that there is nothing like the
almond anyhow to clear the brain and steady the tongue when there have been loo many wines at dinner, and
the salted almond is even more of a restorative than the fresh nut. The almonds are naturally prominent on
every dinner table and now have found their way to the tea tray to clear the Clouded brain of tea drinkers.

A CUP OF GOOD COFFEE.

" It is one of the simplest things in the world to make a cup of good coffee, and this can easily b accom-
plished by using a little common sense. If you put boiling water on coffee and not let it boil, you will have
all the good qualities preserved. One reason why dyspeptics cannot drink coffee is because it is boiled. The
style of coffee-pot is just a matter of fancy. I have made as good coffee in an old tomato can as I have ever
sipped from a cup filled from the finest French coffee urn. We should take lessons in these matters from the
Turks and Arabians, who grind their coffee to a fine powder. When the coffee is ground as fine as possible
put it into a little bag of unbleached muslin, which should be tied tightly enough to prevent the escape of the
grounds. If you use a cup of unground coffee you can make over a quart of very strong, black coffee. In
making coffee many persons sacrifice flavor for strength. Bitterness comes from boiling. When boiling
water is placed on the bag of ground coffee it should stand at least three minutes before serving. Remember
the longer it stands the stronger it becomes. Be careful not to allow the watered coffee to boil."

K. COFFEE AS IN FRANCE.

Coffee should be roasted of a cinnamon color, and coarsely ground when cool. For one pint of boiling
water take two ounces and a half of coffee. Put the coffee into boiling water; close the coffee-pot, and leave it for
two hours on a trivet over the fire, so as to keep up the heat without making it boil. Stir now and then, and
after two hours remove it from over the fire and allow it a quarter of an hour to stand near the fire, to settle.
Then pour it off to serve. Loaf sugar should be used for coffee.

R. BROMA.

One cup of hot water, one cup of milk, one even tablespoon of broma; save a little of
the warm milk and water in which to dissolve the broma. When the milk and water boil,
pour in the dissolved broma, and boil two minutes, stirring a little. This is a delicious

drink.

CHOCOLATE.

In preparing chocolate cut off two inches in length of the cake to one quart of water;
stir it in a little cold water till soft, then pour on the boiling water; after it has boiled a
short time, add a pint of milk, bring to a boil, and then serve. The French put two cups
of boiling water to each cup of chocolate. They throw in the chocolate, just as the water
commences to boil. Stir it with a spoon so soon as it boils up, add two cups of good
milk, and, when it has boiled sufficiently to cook, serve.

i 7 o BEVERAGES.

P. ELDERBERRY' WINE.

Two quarts of the juice of the berries, three pounds of sugar, two quarts of water ; stir
all together and put in a jug, keep it full with extra juice till it is done working, then
scald and put in a jug, cork when cold and keep in a cold place.

HOT APPLE TODDY.

Take the pulp from a hot baked apple of medium size, using a teaspoon to free it from
skin and core; put it into a tumbler, with an equal measure of apple-jack, a pleasant addi-
tion of sugar and grated nutmeg, and a little boiling water. A usual proportion for a
single toddy is one finger of baked apple, two each of apple-jack and boiling water, a
tablespoon of sugar, and a grate of nutmeg on the top.

HOT COFFEE AND SODA.

For temperance advocates hot black coffee mixed with soda, is a good substitute for the
spirituous winter drinks; make black coffee as follows: Quarter of a pound of good coffee
infused in boiling water, but not boiled, will make medium strong coffee. Use hot black
coffee and soda in equal proportions, with a palatable addition of cream syrup, or
condensed milk and sugar.

PEACH AND HONEY.

A good winter drink is made by mixing together one tablespoon of honey and a wine-
glass of peach brandy.

ROMAN PUNCH.

Grate the rinds of four lemons and two oranges in two pounds of white sugar, adding
their juice; cover and let stand until next day, when strain through a sieve, adding a
bottle of champagne and the whites of eight eggs beaten very stiff; freeze like ice cream.

SOUTHERN EGG-NOGG.

Beat thoroughly the yolks of eight eggs, with one pound of granulated sugar, with
which mix one half gallon of fresh, rich milk; then pour upon it, very slowly, stirring the
eggs and milk briskly, a pint and a half of best Jamaica rum; if not sweet enough, add
more sugar; have ready the whites of the eggs, beaten to a froth, with a little pulverized
sugar; stir in about one half; put the other on top; place it on ice. This is first-class
Virginia egg-nogg.

RASPBERRY SHERBET.

Two quarts of raspberries, one cup of sugar, one pint and a half of water, the juice
of a large lemon, one tablespoon of gelatine. Mash the sugar and berries together and
let them stand two hours. Soak the gelatine in cold water to cover. Add one pint of
the water to the berries, and strain. Dissolve the gelatine in half the water, add this to
the strained mixture and freeze.

FOOD FOR THE SICK.

MILK.

When using milk in dishes for the sick, the disease of the persons \Vho are to consume the food should be
considered. Long boiling hardens the albumen and makes the milk constipating ; hence, if the patient be
already constipated, great care should be exercised not to allow the milk or cream to heat above the boiling
point; also one cannot use seasoning for a sick person that would suit a well person. More salt and acid can
and should be used in most cases when seasoning food for the sick, while less sugar or other sweet flavor
should be used. Do not send a too bountiful supply of food to the patient, nor set any one dish before him
frequently just because it has tasted especially good at first. We emphasize the desirability of serving all
dishes in the daintiest and most attractive ways, so as to induce an appetite which may be dormant.

GRUEL OF BOILED FLOUR.

Make a bag of white cotton cloth about six inches long, and four inches wide ; fill
it with white flour pressed down hard; tie up the bag firmly. Put it into boiling water ;
boil four hours; take it out of the bag, remove the wet skin, and a hard white ball
will be left which, if kept in a dry place, will be good several months. Grate a little
of it, stir it up in a little milk or water, then cook it in boiling water or 1 milk about four
minutes, stirring constantly. It is more palatable made with milk. This is excellent for
diarrhoea, but must be used cautiously at first, for it is medicine as well as food.

APPLE PIE FOR THE SICK.

Slice up one or more nice, tart apples, in a saucer, sweeten with white sugar, and cover
with a moderately thick slice of bread, buttered slightly on the underside; when the bread
is browned, the apples, if of a tender kind, and thinly sliced, will be done.

APPLE WATER.

One large juicy pippin, three cups of cold water one quart if the apple is very large;
pare and quarter the apple, but do not core it; put it on the fire in a tin or porcelain
saucepan with the water, and boil, closely covered, until the apple stews to pieces;
strain the liquor at once, pressing the apple hard in the cloth; strain this again through
a finer bag, and set away to cool; sweeten with white sugar, and ice for drinking.

BEEF STEAK AND MUTTON CHOPS.

Choose the tenderest cuts and broil over a clear hot fire with your wisest skill. Let the
steak be rare, the chops well done. Salt and pepper; lay between two hot plates three
minutes, and serve to your patient. If he is very weak, do not let him swallow anything
except the juice, when he has chewed the meat well. The essence of rare beef, roasted
or broiled, thus expressed, is considered by some physicians to be more strengthening
than beef tea prepared in the usual manner.

BOILED RICE.

Half a cup of whole rice, boiled in just enough water to cover it, one cup of milk, a little
salt, one egg, beaten light. When the rice is nearly done, turn off the water, add the milk
and simmer, taking care it does not scorch, until the milk boils up well. Salt, and bea
in the egg. Eat warm with cream, sugar, and nutmeg.

171

172 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

BEEF TEA FOR THE SICK.

One pound lean beef, cut into small pieces. Put into jar without a drop of water,
cover tightly, set in a kettle of cold water. Heat gradually to a boil, and continue this
steadily for three or four hours, until the meat is like white rags, and the juice all drawn
out. Season with salt to taste, and when cold, skim. The patient will often prefer this

ice-cold to hot.

CELERY CURES RHEUMATISM.

" New discoveries or what claims to be discoveries of the healing virtues of plants are continually being
made. One of the latest is that celery is a cure for rheumatism ; indeed, it is asserted the disease is impossible
if the vegetable be cooked and freely eaten. The fact that it is always put on the table raw prevents its
therapeutic powers from being known. The celery should be cut into bits, boiled in water until soft, and the
water drank by the patient. Serve warm with pieces of toasted bread, and the painful ailment will soon yield.
Such is the declaration of a physician who has again and again tried the experiment, and with uniform success.
At least two-thirds of the cases named ' heart disease ' are ascribed to rheumatism and its agonizing ally, gout.
Here, in Germany, we boil the roots and stalks, as the root is the principal part of it, and afterwards eat it as
salad, with oil and vinegar. I received such immediate benefit that I am anxious to let all the rheumatic
sufferers know of it." German Correspondent

BACKER GRUEL.

A scant half-pint of boiling water poured upon four tablespoons of powdered cracker,
and, after a pint of milk and half a teaspoon of salt is added, the mixture should be

stirred until it boils up once.

EGG-NOGG.

The white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth ; a teaspoon of sugar beaten in ; then the
yolk of the egg, and finally a tablespoon each of milk, water and wine.

PANADA.

Six Boston crackers, split, two tablespoons white sugar, a good pinch of salt, and a little
nutmeg, enough boiling water to cover them well; split the crackers, and pile in a bowl in
layers, salt and sugar scattered among them ; cover with boiling water and set on the
hearth, with a close top over the bowl, for at least one hour. The crackers should be
almost clear and soft as jelly, but not broken. Eat from the bowl, with more sugar sprin-
kled in if you wish it. If properly made, this panada is very nice.

PORTEREE.

Pint bottle of porter, two glasses pale sherry, one lemon peeled and sliced, half
pint of ice-water, six or eight lumps loaf sugar, half of a grated nutmeg, pounded ice.
This mixture has been used satisfactorily by invalids, for whom the pure porter was too
heavy, causing biliousness and heartburn.

SOFT BOILED EGGS.

Fresh eggs for invalids, who like them cooked soft, should be put in a pan of boiling
water, and set on a part of the range where they will not boil for several minutes. At the
end of that time they will be like jelly, oe.rfectly soft, but beautifully done, and quite
digestible by even weak stomachs.

FOOD FOR THE SICK. 173

SOFT TOAST.

Toast well, but not too brown, a couple of thin slices of bread; put them on a warm plate
and pour over boiling water; cover quickly with another plate of the same size, and drain
the water off; remove the upper plate, butter the toast, put it in the oven one minute, and
then cover again with a hot plate and serve at once.

THICKENED MILK.

With a little milk, mix smooth a tablespoon of flour and a pinch of salt. Pour upon it
a quart of boiling milk, and when it is thoroughly amalgamated put all back into the
saucepan, and boil up once, being careful not to burn, and stirring all the time, to keep it
perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Serve with slices of dry toast. It is excellent for
diarrhoea, and becomes a specific by scorching the flour before mixing with the milk.

CHICKEN JELLY.

Half a raw chicken, pounded with a mallet, bones and meat together, plenty of cold
water to cover it well, about a quart. Heat slowly in a covered vessel, and let it simmer
until the meat is in white rags and the liquid reduced one-half. Strain and press, first
through a colander, then through a coarse cloth. Salt to taste, and pepper if you think
best; return to the fire, and simmer five minutes longer. Skim when cool. Give to the
patient cold just from the ice with unleavened wafers. Keep on the ice. You can
make into sandwiches by putting the jelly between thin slices of bread spread lightly with
butter.

INDIAN MEAL GRUEL.

One tablespoon of fine Indian or oat-meal, mix smooth with cold water and a saltspoon
of salt; pour upon this a pint of boiling water and turn into a saucepan to boil gently for
half an hour; thin it with boiling water if it thickens too much, and stir frequently; when
it is done, a tablespoon of cream or a little new milk may be put in to cool it after strain-
ing, but if the patient's stomach is weak it is best without either. Some persons like it
sweetened and a little nutmeg added, but to many it is more palatable plain.

MILK PORRIDGE

Two cups best oat-meal, two cups water, two cups milk. Soak the oat-meal over night
in the water; strain in the morning, and boil the water half an hour. Put in the milk
with a little salt, boil up well and serve. Eat warm, with or without powdered sugar.

ICE IN THE SICK ROOM.

Cut a piece of flannel about nine inches square, and secure it by ligature round the mouth of an ordinary tum-
bler, so as to leave a cup-shaped depression of flannel within the tumbler to about half its depth. In the flannel
cup so formed ice may be preserved many hours all the longer if a piece of flannel from four to five inches
square be used as a loose cover to the ice cup. Cheap flannel with comparatively open meshes, is preferable,
as the water easily drains through it, and the ice is thus kept quite dry.

174 HOME DISSERTATIONS.

SCOTCH BROTH.

A two-pound piece of scraggy part of a neck of mutton. This particular cut is em-
ployed because the muscles of a sheep's neck are in constanc use as to make that part of
the animal better flavored and more nutritious than those parts through which the blood
has run less freely. Cut the meat from the bones and remove all fat. Cut the meat into
small pieces and put it into a soup-kettle, together with two slices of carrots, a slice of
turnip, a stalk of celery and an onion all cut fine ; half a cup of barley and three pints
of water; allow the broth to simmer gently two hours. The bones, with a pint of water allow
the same time for simmering, then strain into the soup-kettle. A tablespoon each of butter
and flour should be cooked together until perfectly smooth, and then stir into the broth;
after which salt and pepper, and a teaspoon of chopped parsley should be added. Do
not cook too rapidly or at too high a temperature, as it hardens the fibres of the meat,
whereas a slow bubbling renders the meat tender and secures a better flavor for the broth.
Mutton is so nutritious, and so easily digested as to deserve much attention as a food
during convalescence. If it be properly cooked, the peculiar flavor that is disagreeable
to some persons is concealed, though the meat remains palatable.

MUTTON BROTH.

Mutton broth recommended for patients whose food must be light, is made with a
pound of meat like that used for Scotch broth, freed of fat, cut into small pieces and put
into a saucepan containing a quart of cold water. When this water has become heated to
a boiling point skim it carefully, add a teaspoon of barley, and allow it to simmer slowly
two hours.

LEMON JELLY.

Soak one-fourth cup of gelatine in an equal quantity of cold water for two hours.
Pour upon the gelatine a cup of boiling water, and add half a cup of sugar, one-fourth
cup of lemon-juice, and after straining the jelly through a napkin into a mould, set it
away to cool.

CREAM TOAST.

Half a cup of cream heated to the boiling point, and seasoned with salt. In the mean-
time toast two slices of bread to a light-brown, then dip them in the cream and place on a
dish, the remaining cream pour over them.

ENGLISH SNIPE.

Clean them, cut off the wings and legs at the first joint. Then cut the birds open in
the back, season with salt and pepper, dip in melted butter, then dredge with flour. Broil
eight or ten minutes, and serve on buttered toast.

WINE WHEY.

Sweeten half a pint of milk to suit the sick one's taste. Let this come to the boiling
point, then pour in a wineglass and a half of sherry wine. Let it stand on the stove to
simmer until a curd forms; then strain it through a muslin cloth laid in a colander.
Let it stand until it is cool. Serve in a pretty cup, and on the saucer lay two or three
wafers.

CONTENTS.

HOME, .......

ART AT HOME, . . .

THE HEARTH-STONE, .

FLOWERS, . .

WIFE

MANNERS, . .

CONVERSATION, . . . . .

TO-DAY

HAPPINESS,

ORDERLY DOMESTIC MANAGEMENT,

KEEPING HOUSE, ,..-.- .

EMERSON ON THE BABY,

MR. RUSKIN'S IDEAS OF A MODEL NUR-
SERY, . . . , i .

CLEANLINESS, . . .

FOOD AND DRINK, . . .

ENTHUSIASM OF LABOR, .

TABLE ETIQUETTE,

TABLE TALK, . . .

DINNER GIVING,

TABLE RULES FOR LITTLE ONES,

FRENCH NAMES OF DISHES USED IN
MENUS, . . .

V/HERE IS THE MAN THAT CAN LIVE
WITHOUT DINING, ....

PAGE

sou.v, .

6 9

FISH, ..*,..

SHELL FISH, . .

OYSTERS, ......

9 2

FRYING, ROASTING, BROILING, STEWING

2 9

AND STEAMING, . . . . ,

POULTRY,

GAME, . . . . . . . .

106

BEEF,

1 08

VEAL, . . ... .

112

MUTTON,

116

4 1

PORK, . .

118

SALADS

120

SALAD DRESSING

121

SAUCES

122

PICKLES, . . . . . .

I2C

VEGETABLES,

^j
127

EGGS, . .

I 3 6

BREAD, . . . . .-',:.

140

CAKE, . . . . . . . .

c.<r

PASTRY,

r 55

PUDDINGS, . . . .

158

SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS,

163

DESSERT, . . . . . .

164!

ICES, .......

L\Jt+

166

**j

BEVERAGES, . ' . . .

1 68

FOOD FOR THE SICK, ....

171

THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS

Acacia, Friendship

Achimenes Cupreata, Such worth is rare
Almond (flowering), Hope

Amaranth (globe) Immortality, Unfading love
Amaryllis, Pride, Timidity, Splendid Beauty
A nemone (garden), Forsaken
Apple (blossom;, Preference

Arbor Vilce, Unchanging Friendship, Live for me
Aster (China), Variety, Afterthought
Auricula, Painting
Azalea, Temperance
achelor's Button, Celebacy
Bay Leaf, I change but in death
Begonia, Deformity
Belladonna, Silence, Hush
Bell Flower (small, white), Gratitude
Cactus. Warmth

Calceolaria, I offer you my fortune
Camelia Japonica red, Unpretending excellence
Camelia Japonica white, Reflected loveliness
Canary Grass, Perseverance
Candy Tuft, Indifference
Cedar Leaf, I live for thee
Chestnut 'tree, Do me justice
Chrysanthemum, red, I love
Chrysanthemum, white, Truth
Chrysanthemum, Slighted love
Cineraria, Always delightful
Clematis, Mental beauty
Clover, four-leafed, Be mine
Clover, red. Industry
Clover, white, Think of me
Cowslips, American, Divine beauty
Crocus, Abuse not
Cypress, Death, Mourning
Daffodill, Regard
Dahlia, Instability
Daisy, Innocence
Daisy, parti-colored, Beauty
Daphne Odora, Painting the Lily
Dew Plant, A serenade

Eglantine (sweetbriar), Poetry, I wound to heal
Everlasting, Never-ceasing remembrance
Fern, Fascination, Magic, Sincerity
Fir, Time

Fleur-de-lis, Flame, I burn
Forget-me-nots, True love
Fuchsia, scarlet, Fast
Geranium, horse-shoe leaf, Stupidity
Geraninm, ivy. Bridal favor
Geranium, lemon, Unexpected meeting
Geranium, nutmeg, Expected meeting
Geranium, silver-leaved, Recall
Gillyflower, Bonds of affection
Hawthorn, Hope
Heartsease, or Pansy, Thoughts
Heliotrope, Devotion, or I turn to thee
Hibiscus, Delicate beauty
Honeysuckle, Generous and devoted affection
Honeysuckle, (Coral), The color of my fate
Honeysuckle, (French), Rustic beauty
Hortensia, You are cold
Hoya, Sculpture
Hyacinth, Sports, Game, Play
Hyacinth, purple, Sorrowful
Hyacinth, white, Unobtrusive loveliness
Hydrangea, A boaster
Ice Plants, Your looks freeze me
Ivy, Friendship, Fidelity, Marriage
Jasmine, Amiability
Jasmine, Transports of joy
Jasmine, Sensuality
Jasmine, Grace and Elegance
King-cups, Desire of riches
Lantana, Rigor
Larkspur, Lightness, Levity
Laurel, Glory
Laurestina, A. Token
Lavender, Distrust
Leaves (dead), Melancholy
Lemon Blossoms, Fidelity in love
Lilac, purple, First emotions of love
Lilac, white, Youthful innocence

N. B. If a flower be given reversed, its original

mea

Lilv imperial, Majesty

Lily, white, Purity, Sweetness

Lilv of the Valley, Return of Happiness

Lobelia, Malevolence

Lupine, Voraciousness

Magnolia, Love of Nature

Magnolia, Swamp, Perseverance

Marigold, French, Jealousy

Marigold and Cypress, Despair

Mignonette, Your qualities surpass your charms

Mint, Virtue

Mock Orange, Counterfeit

Musk Plant, Weakness

Myrtle, Love

Narcissus, Egotism

Nettle, common stinging, You are spiteful

Oleander, Beware

Olive, Peace

Orange, blossom, Your purity equals your loveliness

Orange, flowers. Chastity, Bridal festivities

Pansy, Thoughts

Passion Flower, Faith

Peach B nssom, I am your captive

Periwinkle, blue, Early friendship

Petunia, Your presence soothes me

Finn, Boldness

Pink, carnation, Woman's love

Pink, Indian, double, Always lovely

Pink, Indian, single, Aversion

Pink, red, double, Pure and ardent love

Pink, single, Pure love

Pink, variegated, Refusal

Pink, white, Ingeniousness, Talent

Plumbago, Larpenta, Holy wishes

Poppy, red, Consolation

Poppv, white, Sleep

Primrose, Early youth and sadness

Rhododendron (rosebay), Danger, beware

Rose, Love

Rose, bridal, Happy love

Rose, cabbage, Ambassador of love

Rose, daily, Thy smile I aspire to

Rose, damask, Brilliant complexion

Rose, deep red, Bashful shame

Rose, single, Simplicity

Rose, thornless, Early attachment

Rose, white, I am worthy of you

Rose, white, withered. Transient impressions

Rose, yellow, Decrease of Love, Jealousy

Rose, white and red together, Unity

Rosebud, red, Pure and lovely

Rosebud, white, Girlhood

Rosebud, moss, Confe'sion of love

Rosemary. Remembrance

Sage, garden, Esteem

Salvia, blue, Wisdom

Salvia, red. Energy

Sensitive Plant, Sensibility

Stock, Lasting beauty

Sunflower, tall, Haughtiness

Sweetbriar, American, Simplicity

Sweet Pea, Delicate pleasures

Syr ing a, Memory

Thorn, branch of, Severity

Tuberose, Dangerous pleasures

Tulip, red, Declaration of love

Tulip, variegated, Beautiful eyes

Tulip, yellow, Hopeless love

Verbena, pink, Family union

Verbena, scarlet, United against evil

Verbena, white, Pray for me

Veronica, Fidelity

Vervain, Enchantment

Violet, blue, Faithfulness

Violet, sweet, Modesty

Viscaria Oculata, Will you dance with me ?

Wall-flower, Fidelity in adversity

Willow, weeping, Mourning

Wisteria, Welcome, fair stranger

Woodbine, Fraternal love

Xanthium. Rudeness, Pertinacity

Yew , Sorrow

Zinna, Thoughts of absent friends

signification is understood t> be contradicted, and the opposite
ning to be implied.

A, DUHEM, FLORIST AND DECORATOR, 121 SUTTER ST., S.

OFFICE OF

Goldberg, Bowen & Lebenbaum

The first edition of Home Dissertations met with such universal
approval by all who received copies, and the books were so soon distributed
that we immediately set to work to issue this second edition.

Since issuing the first edition the consolidation has taken place of the
two oldest Grocery Establishments on the Pacific Coast, and we. now present
this modest offering to housekeepers, to a clientele comprising the best fami-
lies in this city and every city and town of the Pacific Coast, who have been
patrons of one or the other of the houses.

Thus il may not be inappropriate to give a few details concerning the
business.

The two stores will remain as heretofore, on Pine street just below
Kearny and on Sutler just above Kearny.

San Francisco is a cosmopolitan city and the whole Pacific Coast is
cosmopolitan in its inhabitants, and in order to cater to the various nation-
alities a stock must include the delicacies from every climate and civilized
nation.

On the two following pages are enumerated some of the articles
imported from the different producing countries, although it would be
impossible to classify anything like the entire list.

France sends the greatest variety, followed by Germany, England, Italy,
Holland, Switzerland, India, China, Japan, etc.

Importations from

GENUINE
CHATEAU
CLARETS

Chateau Lafite, 1875 & 1879
Chateaux Margaux, 1881

and 1888
Chateau Leoville, 1874 and

1881

Brown Cantenac, 1874 and
( 1881
Mouton Rothschild, 1881

and 1882

Pichon Longueville, 1881
Rausan Segla, 1887
Latour, 1887
I^Pontet Canet, 1887

{ Romance Conti, 1881
Chambertin, 1881. qts.
Montrachet, 1881, qts.
Clos de Vougeot, 1878, pts.
and qts.
^Chablis, 1881, qts.
( All the after dinner drinks
I Creme de Men the, Curacoa,
1 Parfait Amour, Assorted
[ Liqueurs in Paniers
( Fruits Preserved in Juice
{ Fruits Preserved in Brandy
^ Candied and Glace
C Champignons, Petit Pois,
Harricot Vert, Harricot
j Flageolet, Marrons Rotis
et au Sirop, Asperges,
Pimeintes Morrones et
Truffles, in glass and tin
Pates in terrines and tin
Pate de foie Gras
Foie Gras Pique aux Truffles
Bird Pates in Bijou tins
Puree de foie Gras
(^ Saucisses et Saucisson
["Society Roquefort
I Camembert, in glass jars
CHEESE { Roquefort, in glass jars
| Coulomnier, in glass jars
t Fromage de Brie,in glass jars
f Sardines a' la huile, boneless
Sardines Royanau Truffles
Puree de Poisson
FISH { Anchovies a 1'huile

Anchovies au sel
I Thon Marine
I Mackerel a 1'huile

GENUINE
CHATEAU
BURGUN-
DIES

CORDIALS

FRUITS

VEGE-
TABLES

MEATS

Importations from

f Wiesbaden Fruits
FRUITS \ Melange in Arrack

^Preserved Cranberries

MEATS

FISH

( Westphalian Hams

j Braunschweiger Sausage

J Ganseleber Sausage Truffled

Cervalatewurst

Pommersche Gansebrust,
smoked

Brabant Sardellen
Eels, Smoked and in Gelee
Appetit Sild
Keiller Sprotten
Krauter Anchovies
k Marinirte Herring

CHEESE - Limburger

PICKLES

f Dill Gherkins
\ Senfgurken
' Salt Pickles

f Nuremberg and Brunswick

SUNDRIES -< Hone y Kuchen

l^Gall and Almond Soap

SUNDRIES <

Importations from Italy

Olives

Olive Oil

Parmesan Cheese

Gorgon zola Cheese

Thon

Mackerel in Oil

Macaroni, Vermicelli, etc.

Currants

Chestnuts

Mortadella Sausage

Castile Soap

Lachryma Christi Wine

Marsala Wine

Vermouth

Importations f r m

f Milchner Herrings

Cocoa

SUNDRIES < Edam Cheese
j Cucumbers
l^

SUNDRIES
3

Importations f r W Switzerland

f Neufchatel Cheese
I Emrnenthaler Cheese
SUNDRIES ^ Coffee Extracts
I Chocolate
^Condensed Milk

Importations from JHungary

C Paprika (Pepper)
J Ansbruch Tokayer

< j rv j-

Burgundy, bzegszardi
t Hock Wine, Szamorodni

Importations from n?' ai ?d

f Stilton Cheese
Cheddar Cheese
Yarmouth Bloaters
Anchovy, Bloater, and

Shrimp Pastes
Kippered Herring
Bol g na Sausage
Oxford Sausage
Yorkshire Game Pate
Jams and Jellies
Pickles and Sauces
Malt and Crystal Vinegars
Ale and Porter

.Glenfield Starch

Importations from Ireland

f Belfast Bacon
SUNDRIES ^ Dublin Porter
I Irish Whiskies

Importations from Scotland

f Dundee Marmalade

J Jams and Jellies

SUNDRIES < J Oatmeal

[Scotch Whiskies

Importations from Mia

f Malaca Pine Apple
| Chutnies
SUNDRIES-^ Sauces

| Ceylon Tea

i, Darjaling Assam Tea

Importations from

( Hankow Russian Chop,
J English Breakfast
] Formosa Oolong
(^Souchong and Congou

Importations from Japan

( Preserved Ginger
SUNDRIES -{ Rice
( Spices

f Natural Green
j Natural Uncolored Basket
TEAS Fired

| Spider Leg
t. Pekoe Teas

Importations from Spain

f Cadiz Sherries

SUNDRIES -j Olives and Olive Oils
[ Raisins

Importations from Arabia

COFFEE j Mocha

Importations from Portugal
PORT j Oporto

Importations from

CUBA j Havana Cigars

PHIL- f .

LJPINE 1 S P 1C6S

CEYLON | Cinnamon
JAVA | Coffee

Referring to the foregoing list of delicacies and the countries of their
origin from which we import direct, buying only from first hands and in
large quantities upon most advantageous circumstances, we are enabled
to own our stock in trade at a margin very close to that of the producers.

We pay no profit to the wholesale dealer or middleman and buy every-
thing for spot cash.

These advantages enable us to offer to the consumer the very finest high
class of goods the world pi oduces at very low prices.

We publish a monthly Catalogue of Prices (5,000 copies] which will be
sent free to anyone upon application (send postal). It enumerates the entire
stock, comprising a greater variety of lines, necessary for the table, kitchen
and boudoir, than any other regularly published price list.

Keen judges of value and careful buyers are invited to inspect our stock
and compare prices with those asked by others for inferior goods.

Very respectfully,
GOLDBERG, BO WEN & LEBENBAUM

Hires' Improved Root Beer

One 25c Package makes 5 gallons of a Delicious, Sparkling and
Wholesome Beverage

HIRES' ROOT BEER has grown in such popular favor, a number of imitations
have appeared upon the market. The manufacturers thereof representing to dealers
that their goods are j ust as good as Hires', and their inducements offered to dealers of a
much lower price, occasionally induce a dealer to invest in these inferior goods, and for
the sake of more profit, misrepresent them to their customers.

If you intend purchasing a package of Hires' Improved Root Beer, do not be put off by such
dealers telling you that any other article is just as good. Insist upon getting Hires', and take no
other.

WHEN YOU HAVE A
COUGH OR COLD, USE

TTTDCQ'

HI K co

TTTP17

LUKc

HUCKINS

Tomato,
Ox Tail,
Pea,

Beef,
Vermicelli,

Mock Turtle, Terrapin,
Okra or Gumbo, Macaroni,
Green Turtle,
Julienne,
Chicken,

RICH and PERFECTLY SEASONED.

Consomme,

Sou p and Boii ill! ,
Mullagatawny,

Require only to be heated, and I Prepared with great care from I Have enjoyed the highest reputa-

are then ready to serve. | only the best materials. | tion for more than 32 years.
r^^^~im*mi^^m Send us SO cents, to help pay express, and receive, prepaid, two 8am-
I TCCT CDpE I Pie cans of these Soups, your choice.
| JEOI TREE | j H w j^Cj^j^g & C Q ^

SOLD BY ALL LEADING GROCERS. Sole Manufacturers, Boston, Mass.

The Santa Fe Route

PERSONALLY CONDUCTED

Overland Excursions

San Francisco, Oakland, Modesto, Merced,

Sacramento, Santa Rosa, Madera, Fresno,

Stockton, San Jose, Selma, Kingsburg,

Lathrop, Tulare and Bakersfield

EVERY WEDNESDAY

THROUGH TO

BOSTON

WITHOUT CHANQE

Every Excursion is Accompanied by a, Santa Fe
Route Excursion Manager, Through to Boston

Byron Mauzy's Piano Warerooms

51?e

arjd

U/arqrooms or? tfre pacific C^oast

INTERIOR VIEW OF WAREROOMS

SOLE AGENT FOR

SOHMER & CO,

CHASE BROS.

HALLETT & CUJVISTON

NEWBY & EVANS

TABER REED ORGANS

Pianos Sold on very EASY TERMS at CASH PRICES

PIANOS XUBJEO <* REPAIRED. I'lA XS XO

308, 310. 312, 314 POST STREET, SAN FRANCISCO

IVVCH IC-l >!< CI^ITB 1M I I,IIX.

Coast Representative for Hook & Hastings, Pipe Organ Manufacturers

SHEET MUSIC DEPARTMENT

Branch of
White-Smith Music Publishing Company

Boston
L. BUDD ROSENBERG, Manager

SMALL GOODS DEPARTMENT

Guitars, Violins, Mandolins, Banjos, Accor-
dions, Zithers, etc. Best Quality Strings.

Something about Pianos

In these days of art and culture, a piano is an almost indispensable article in the
household. In selecting so expensive an article it is advisable to patronize some well
established firm. Byron Mauzy, 308 to 314 Post street, in the Pacific-Union Club
Building, has the largest and finest warerooms in the city, and as he is agent for many
of the leading makers, one would have no trouble in making a proper selection. We
noticed Grands and Uprights in Rosewood, Mahogany, Oak, Walnut and Hazelwood,
and prices according to style and maker.

Music and the trade therein finds its most worthy representative in San Francisco
in Mr. Byron Mauzy. Mr. Mauzy has done for local amateurs and lovers of the tune-
ful art what no other dealer has ventured to attempt to do. He has given them a
handsome and spacious hall, appropriately fitted up with all the accessories for a pub-
lic performance. This, added to the fact that Mr. Mauzy is agent for the Sohmer Piano,
has gained him a great popularity in the music-loving community a feeling which in
nowise interferes with the steady growth of his successful business. As agent of so
peerless an instrument as the Sohmer, which a large number of people think the very
best piano made, Mr. Mauzy would naturally have his hands full; but it is only his due
to state that he has done more for the advancement of a popular taste for good music
than any other dealer in the city, and deserves proportionately better of all music-lov-
ing people.

The Delbeck

Champanes

DRY

THE PERFECTION OF A DRY WINE

THE VIN BRUT

The Highest Grade of Champagne, without
Sweetness

The Barton & Gaestiet*

(Established 1725, Bordeaux)

CLARETS, WHITE WINES
*P OLIVE OIL

James de Fremery & Co.

SAN RRANCISCO
Qeperal /l<$er>ts for tl?<? pacific C^oast

O'HALLARAN & GO.

MANUFACTURERS OF

FINE CLEAR

FACTORY Nos. 86, 42 & 206

KEY WEST, FLA.

P. O. Box 193

BUY
THE

ONLY
BEST

THE GAIL BORDEN

Has maintained its high reputation for ABSOLUTE
PURITY for over a QUARTER OF A CENTURY.

AS A FOOD FOR INFANTS IT HAS NO EQUAL

FOR SALE By-
Grocers and Druggists Everywhere.

THE

American Biscuit

COMPANY

FRANCISCO

Largest and Most Complete Biscuit
Manufactory in the World.

Constantly Introducing Novelties

TRY THE LATEST

Saline Snow Flakes
High Teas, $

fjand-made

Qrackers

Crackers Fresher and Better than any imported

OICE EXTRA
STARR&CQ.

16 CALIFORNIA ST
FRANCISCa

This Brand of Flour Leads all others! Try It

OAKLAND DEPOT: FOOT OF FRANKLIN STREET.

CHAMPAGNE

THK importations into this countty during
1890 show 90,130 cases of C. H.

MUMM & GO'S EXTRA DRY,

^T being an increase of 27,000 cases over
I the previous year, evidencing the high
appreciation in which this wine is held for its
xcellent quality, ft is recommended by the
most eminent physicians in this country for its
purity, small amount of alcohol and whole^ome-
ness, while for a fine dry champagne, "G. H.
MUMM & GO'S EXTRA DRY" is consid-
ered by connoisseurs as unsurpassed.

TRADE SUPPLIED BY

JONES, MUNDY & CO.

K> F ront Street, San F raivcisco, Cal.

ANHEUSER AND BUDWEISER BOTTLED
LAGER BEER

ANHEUSER-BUSCH

BREWING ASSOCIATION
ST. LOUIS

CELEBRATED BOTTLING OF
WM. EDMONDS JR. & CO.- LIVERPOOL

GUINNESS' STOUT, BASS' ALE

PIG BRAND

VAL BLATZ'S CELEB "

"WEINER" ** "PRIVATE STOCK"

RED RIBBON BEERS

TRADE SUPPLIED BY

JONES, MUNDY & CO.

Street . gan. KrartciSCQ, Cal.

FREERECLIIHKG Cn/UR CARS

COLONIST SLEEPERS,

AND
DRAWING ROOM StEEPIN<5 CARS

AND SUPERB DINING CARS.

2O6 &2O3GL.ARK ST

-* PASSENGER. STATION
*^< COA. "WELLS A XINZJE

GHIGAGO 1*0

OAVAHA 15% MRS.

DENVER 33/ 2

PORTLAND 32

SAN FRANCISCO 85

ST. PAUL 13/2 ,,

AINNEAPOLIS 1*
nULVTH 16

3rd ^ ce Eresidfflt

TIKE

Fastest Trains in America,

SCHEDULED FOR PASSENGER TRAFFIC,

KTJN VIA

Baltimore & Ohio R, R,

BETWEEN

Pullman Buffet Cars on Day Trains. Pull-
man Sleeping Cars on all Night Trains.

The Baltimore & Ohio R, R,

Maintains a Complete Service of Vestibuled
Express Trains between

New York, Cincinnati,

St. Louis and Chicago,

-EQUIPPED WITH-

' \/DJ

|h*

Pullman Palace Sleeping Cars

RUNNING THROUGH WITHOUT CHANGE,

All B, & 0, Trains Between the East anJ West Rnn

WASHINGTON.

211 Washington Street, Boston, Mass.

415 Broadway, New York.

9th and Chestnut Streets, Philadelphia, Pa.

Cor. Baltimore and Calvert Streets, Baltimore, Md.

1351 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington, D. C.
Corner Wood Street and Fifth Ave., Pittsburgh, Pa.
Corner 4th and Vine Streets, Cincinnati, O.
101 North Fourth Street, St. Louis, Mo.

J. T. ODELL,

General Manager.

193 Clark Street, Chicago, 111.

CHAS. O. SCULL,

BALTIMORE, MD. General Passenger Agent

The INGLENOC
tected by its trade m
the Wines. None g<

IICE

^, *

Eav f

the vineyard in California: pro-
aarantees the absolute purity ot

and Purity

TILED ATTHE CELEBRATED
^OOK VINEYARDS

FORNIA

First Award of Merit

and Medal, International
Exhibition, Melbourne,
Aust., 1888.

Cal

cest Production

BURGUNDY. SAUTERNE
DEL. HOCK. BURGER. RIESLING
PRIVATE STOCK BRANDY

Absolute Purity Guaranteed by the Legal Pure Wine Stamp

For Sale by GOLDBERG, BOWEN & LEBENBAUM, and all leading

Wine Merchants and Grocers in every

City in the Union
FOR PRICES APPLY TO

F, A, HABER, OFFICE AND DEPOT INGLENOOK VINEYARD

122 SANSOME ST., SAN FRANCISCO

THE CALIFORNIA

BUSH ST., NEAR

SAN KRANCISCO, CAL.

THE ONLY STRICTLY EUROPEAN PLAN AND FIRE-PROOF
HOTEL IN THE CITY

IT IS A RECOGNIZED fact that San Francisco has made from time to time the greatest effort
to surpass all other cities in her Hotel accommodations, and it must be conceded that the acme

The California is unsurpassed in style of service by the best hotels of the United States.
Heretofore there has been no strictly European plan hotel in San -Francisco. Select music every
evening in Restaurant between 6 and 8 P. M. Moderate rates. OTF

A visit to this city is incomplete without seeing The California, unquestionably the most beauti-
ful and luxuriously furnished hotel in America.

A. F. KINZLER, MANAGER