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/c^

The Home
Vegetable Garden

« »
» •• • .

ADOLPH KRUHM

ILLUSTRATED

NEW YORK
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY

LONDON
KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRUBNER ar CO., Limittd

1917

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY

Bntbrbd at Stationbrs' Hall, London, England

Printed in U. S. A.

PREFACE

[^ Notwithstanding the fact that we are a

'^iv^ nation of tillers of the soil, dependable in-

^ formation on the subject of gardening is

scarce. Most books available are either too
^ technical or too theoretical. Many years of

^ practical experience as both seedsman and

^ gardener have taught me the needs of the

average home gardener. This book is in-
tended to fill these needs.

The second part contains the most reliable
and up-to-date advice obtainable on the
varieties of vegetables. Strictly unbiased
judgment is exercised in my recommenda-
tion of the various sorts for several seasons,
sections and soils. The descriptions are dic-
tated by experience, which has proved the
truest teacher of all.

That this book may help to convert many
would-be gardeners into true gardeners and
cause others to get started in the work is my
fond hope.

Adolph Kruhm.

Columbus, Ohio, February ist, 1914.

315440

TABLE OP CONTENTS

Thb Location «-«-«-»i
Thb Soil _.--«-«-2
Preparing thb Ground « « - . • 3
Spading or Plowing ----- « 4

Making a Plan -----«-4

Fixing the Planting Season - - - - 6

Putting Seeds in the Ground - - - - 7

Depth to Sow Seeds - - - « - - 9
Keeping Records -------9

Successive Planting ------ 10

Crop Rotation ------_i2

Intensive Cultivation - - - - - 14

Cultivation Throughout the Season _ - 16
Save Everything ------- 20

Clear the Ground - - - _ - -21
Prepare Rest of Garden ----- 22

Hotbed Construction and Management - 23
Up-to-Date Vegetables ----- 40

Asparagus -------42

Beans --------43

Bush Beans ----.--44

Pole Beans -------47

Lima Beans ------- 4^

Beets --------49

Swiss Chard -------51

Brussels Sprouts ------ 5^

Cabbage --------52

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

Cauliflower ----,«_ 56

Carrots -__----. 58

Celery ._-»_. ..59
Sweet Corn - _ -. _ « _ -61
Cucumbers --__.._ .64
Eggplants ------« 65

Endive ------_. 66

Kale- -----.--« 67

Kohlrabi ----.___ 68

Leek ---.-_-._«69
Lettuce -----_-«69

Muskmelons ---_--« 74
Watermelons --_-_..- 76
Mustard -------'« 78

Okra ---_---- 79

Onions - - - - - - _«8o

Parsley - - - - - - - -.83

Parsnips -------.84

Peas --------85

Peppers --_--..--. 89
Pumpkins - - - - - - -9i

Radishes --------92

Rhubarb --------95

Salsify -------.96

Spinach - -'- - -- - -97

Squashes --------98

Tomatoes ------- 100

Turnips and Rutabagas _ - _ - - 1 03
Vegetablb Planting Table - - - - 105

PART I
THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

IN connection with gardens, learn to take
things as they are, rather than to wait for
things as they should be according to the
opinions of many writers. There will then
be more and better gardens. Few places are
ideally adapted to garden making. But this
should not prevent anyone from making a
serious attempt to have a home garden, for
in no other way can really fresh and whole-
some vegetables come within the reach
of all.

The Location. Take any piece of bare
ground, size 20 by 20 feet and larger, and it
may become the basis of a garden. Only
one requisite is absolutely necessary — that is
a certain amount of sunlight. Good gardens
may be seen even in crowded city yards
where the sun shines only a few hours each
day. If the garden gets sun from 9 o'clock
in the morning until 3 o'clock in the after-

THB HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

noon, almost any vegetable can be grown in
it and, by actual experiment, it has been
proved that many standard vegetables are
satisfied with less.

An ideal home vegetable garden would
be a piece of ground, size 50 by 100 feet,
away from trees or house, gently sloping
toward the south. By careful management
and intensive cultivation, such a garden can
be made to supply all the vegetables a fam-
ily of six can eat, besides offering chances
to grow some flowers and berries.

The Soil. Most writers on gardening
topics discourage the beginner at the start
by laying too much emphasis upon the
"proper" soil. Few people have access to
ideal soil, but all can improve what they
have. Actual experience with and study of
the soil at one's disposal will soon reveal
what is needed. If the soil is heavy and
sticky clay, it needs sand or ashes and humus.
If soil is thin and sandy, it needs plenty of
barnyard manure, supplemented by green
cover crops, such as winter vetch or rye dur-
ing the winter. A good sandy loam is the

TH£ HOM£ VBGETABLfi GAtU)fiK

ideal soil for a garden. One season's experi-
ment should teach what the soil needs.

Preparing the Ground. Most soils are
devoid of humus, which is another name for
decomposed vegetable matter. In humus
develops those bacteria essential to thrifty
vegetation. No better thing exists for
putting humus in the soil than plenty of well-
rotted stable manure. On most soils too
much of it cannot be used, though with some
crops, like tomatoes, it develops more vine
than is desirable.

Scatter the manure evenly over the gar-
den. A liberal application would be a two-
bushel wheelbarrow load for everv 4 sq uare

jards. This wi n rnver th^ ^^ jl 4 inrli^c r^#>^p

with manure which, when dug into the
ground, will raise the beds 2 to ^ inches
above the p aths. In addition it pavs^ in con-
nection with certain crops, to use some good
commercial fertilizer. These should be ap-
plied either broadcast after the soil is dug,
and raked carefully into the surface, or they
may be scattered along the rows of vegeta-
bles during development. Specific direc-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

tions for this will be found under the various
chapters on up-to-date vegetables.

Spading or Plowing. Where tl>e limits
of the garden do not exceed 40 or 50 feet
(the size of an average kitchen garden) it
pays well to dig by hand. Never spade
more on any one day than can be planted
that day, for should it rain overnight on
ground not planted, the spading will have
to be done over again. If the garden is
larger, have it plowed and see that the man
sets his plowshare at least 10 inches deep,
provided the soil is deep enough to stand
such a depth. Then smooth the ground with
a rake, getting it as level as possible so heavy
rains will not leave water on the beds. Such
portions of the garden as receive drenching
rains after plowing, should be stirred deeply
with a wheel hoe or a cultivator before rak-
ing, as a hard subsoil will prove detrimental
to many crops. Be particular about the
preparation of the soil. It saves hard, back-
breaking cultivation afterwards.

'Making a Plan. No other factor in gar-
den making is as sadly neglected as the plan-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

ning of the work on paper. Most planters
underestimate the importance of this phase,
yet none would think of building a house
without blueprints. Haphazard planting is
responsible for most of the indifferent re-
sults met with in home gardens. A well
thought out plan is necessary in order to
take care of proper crop rotation — one of
the most vital factors in connection with
home gardens where a small area has to bear
several crops in the course of a season.

On a piece of paper draw the outline of
the garden to a definite scale — say one-
fourth inch for every foot. Mark in the
white space the various rows and beds of
every vegetable to be grown. Keep a mem-
orandum book besides and mark down dates
when crops mature and second sowings are
made. In this way only can one hope to
make the best out of gardening opportuni-
ties.

PLANTING THE GARDEN

All vegetables may be divided into two
broad classes according to the manner in

THE HOME VEGETABLE GAltDEN

which they bear their products : Root crops,
those which bear their edible product be-
neath the soil; and bushes or vines, which
yield their product above ground. "Vin-
ing" vegetables are used sparingly in most
home gardens because the space they occupy
is sadly out of proportion to the value of the
crops they bear. Almost everybody grows a
few cucumbers, but there is little excuse for
growing melons, pumpkins and vining
squashes in the limited area of the home
garden.

Fixing the Planting Season. The root,
plant and bush vegetables may, in turn, be
subdivided again in early, midseason and
late kinds according to their season of plant-
ing and maturing. Nearly all important
vegetables, like beans, radishes, lettuce, in-
clude types for all seasons. Special refer-
ence to this is made under the respective
chapter heads.

The first vegetables that may safely be
planted in all sections as soon as the ground
can be dug and raked, are onion sets, rad-
ishes, lettuce, mustard, smooth-seeded peas,

Cucumber (top), Cantaloupe (middle), Watermelon (bottom)

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

spinach and early cabbage. The average
planting date for these in the latitude of
New York is April lo. These are the hardi-
est of all vegetables^ which stand light frosts
without injury and thrive well in cool
weather. A week to lo days after that beets,
carrots, endive, kale, onion seed, wrinkled
peas and early turnips may follow.

Any time after May first, some of the
earliest and hardiest varieties of sweet corn,
bush beans (not Limas) , okra, parsley, pars-
nips and salsify may be sown. Finally, be-
tween May 15 and Decoration Day, it be-
comes safe to plant out all the rest of the
vegetables the plan calls for, winding up
the operations by setting out tomatoes, pep-
per, and eggplants about the last of May.

None of the vining plants, such as cucum-
bers, melons and squashes, should be planted
before May 15. Most gardeners are in too
big a hurry to start these things and as a re-
sult often court disappointment and failure.

Putting Seeds in the Ground. With a
few exceptions, as mentioned below, make
it a rule to plant everything in long, straight

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

rows. The advantage of planting in straight
rows is so obvious that it is really surprising
why people adhere so long to the old method
of making "beds." Straight rows simplify
planting, facilitate cultivation and eliminate
much back-breaking work. If a horse cul-
tivator is available, place rows 3 feet apart.
If cultivation is done by wheel hoe put rows
from 12 to 24 inches apart, according to the
vegetables.

A safe rule to follow is to allow as much
space between the rows as the plants are tall
"when fully grownu For instance, if bush
beans grow 12 inches tall, allow 12- inches
space on either side of the row or 24 inches
between two rows. The planter will be on
the safe side to apply this rule to all dwarf
vegetables. Tall plants, like staked toma-
toes, pole beans or tall varieties of peas,
should have 2j^ to 3 feet between the rows
or hills. Vining plants, such as cucumbers
and muskmelons, may be planted in hills 3
feet apart each way, and the plants pinched
back as soon as they reach the limit of their
allotted space.

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

Depth to Sow Seeds. To reach the true
solution of this question requires years of
study and the cultivation of a gardening in-
stinct. It is logical that seeds may be sown
deeper in light sandy soil than in heavy clay.
In midsummer it is necessary to plant seeds
deeper than early in the spring. It is best
to press the soil in firm contact with some
seeds after sowing, while others should be
covered very lightly or the seedlings will
never reach the surface.

However, here is a general rule, which, if
followed, will prevent the making of serious
mistakes. Except with peas, beans and corn,
never cover seeds deeper than twice their
tmcKness. The seeds mentioned mav be
sown a uniform depth of 2 to 3 inches. A
radish seed averages % inch in diameter.
Twice this thickness is J4 ii^ch — cover rad-
ish seeds % inch deep. This rule is not in-
fallible, but it is safe to follow with all sorts
of coarse-grained vegetable seeds.

Keeping Records. In putting out the
various seeds and plants suggested above, go
at it with a system. Before a thing is done in

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

the garden, it should be decided to keep
records. Garden records require a note-
book and wooden labels. Each sort of vege-
table planted should have an allotted space
in the notebook. Each vegetable row should
be properly marked in the garden with an
inch-wide foot label, such as can be bought
for lo cents a dozen. On each label should
be the name of the vegetable and the date
when seeds were planted or plants set out.
As the rows bear crops, mark in the note-
book additional dates, quantities harvested,
special observations, etc. Those who prac-
tice this will soon learn to look upon garden-
ing as a mighty educational factor. It is
safe to state that the knowledge acquired in
this manner will be worth quite as much as
the value of the garden product

Successive Planting. The ideal garden
will furnish a continuous supply of the best-
liked vegetables throughout the season. Two
methods are open by which this ideal may be
realized — either successive plantings, or
selection of sorts that cover the season from
early to late. Many factors make the first

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

way the easier and more desirable. Few
persons are sufficiently familiar with the
number of days required by certain varieties
to reach maturity. True, one reads that this
is a "6o-day corn," the next sort a "midsea-
son variety" and the next a "late kind." But
such terms mean little even to the experi-
enced gardeners, because local conditions,
soil, climate, amount of moisture, etc., alter
circumstances to such an extent that a
"science of gardening" cannot be estab-
lished.

Make successive plantings of the varieties
best enjoyed, governed by the amount of
crop one would like to secure. For instance,
if snap-beans are a favorite, plant 30 feet of
row every other week from May 15 until
August I for a family of four. Even this
rule will vary according to the variety
planted. Many of the choicest strains of
vegetables are shy yielders, so if a taste is
cultivated for some of them, it requires a
year's record to figure correctly how much
and how often they should be planted for
successive crops.

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

The question of successive crops should
really be considered when the original plan
is made. It will be necessary to reserve cer-
tain space for later plantings; should the
garden be planted completely at the start,
there would be a surplus of vegetables one
week, and a dearth the next

Crop Rotation. In connection with suc-
cessive plantings it pays to give attention to
the proper rotation of crops. Make it a rule
never to plant the same vegetable on the
same piece of ground two years in succes-
sion. This rule alone makes the keeping of
records and the drawing of a plan a neces-
sity, for memory cannot be depended upon
to tell correctly what occupied one spot or
another the year before.

Each vegetable takes certain elements out
of the ground. Plant the same vegetable on
the same spot for several years and soon the
soil will become exhausted of that special
plant food, depriving the vegetable of one
quality or another. Only one garden crop I
know seems indifferent about the enforce-
ment of this rule — the onion. But even on-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

ions become subject to attacks by the onion
maggot if planted in the same location year
after year.

One of the best suggestions, which will
help greatly to solve the problem of crop ro-
tation, is offered in Watts^s book, "Vegetable
Gardening." Before planting and while
planning the garden, group the various
vegetables according to their habit of
growth, root crops, salad plants, vegetables
forming bushes, etc. Then plant them in
groups and the following season shift the
groups to different rows. This will save the
endless job of marking many rows in the
notebook.

Within the limited area of the home gar-
den, the strain on fertility is naturally great.
Good farmers, in addition to practicing
crop rotation, give their field? a rest after a
number of years by putting them in sod,
clover or pasture. Good gardeners should
likewise give their garden a rest. One of the
best means to accomplish this is to sow the
garden patch to rye or hairy vetch during
the fall and winter. Besides proper crop

«3

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

rotation, nothing will help more to keep the
garden in tip- top shape than the employ-
ment of these humus- furnishing field crops,
which may be dug under in the spring as
green manure or utilized as chicken feed.
The vetch will also furnish considerable
nitrogenous plant food because it collects
such from the air.

Intensive Cultivation. These two words
spell the secret of successful home vegetable
gardening. No other phase is so sadly
neglected and no other factor offers such big
chances as this. To make each square foot
of soil yield three to four crops in a season
of six months is a fascinating problem, the
solution of which carries with it rich re-
wards to the planter. Wasteful methods
have been the rule in gardens in the past;
but, strange to say, it has remained for the
city man to show the country gardener what
really can be accomplished by concentrated
effort on a small piece of ground.

Suppose radishes, lettuce, onions, spinach,
etc., are planted on April lo. All these are
what might be termed "short season" crops*

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

By the middle of May, some of the rows will
have done their duty, borne their crops and
be ready for either weeds or other crops.
Where space is abundant, the tendency exists
to stretch out the garden. Don't do it, but
as soon as a row stops bearing, plant some-
thing else in that row. Decide on a little
program something like this : Radishes, ex-
hausted May 20, follow with summer let-
tuce exhausted August i, follow with snap-
beans exhausted by frost. Sow ground to
vetch or rye. Or early peas exhausted June
15, follow with bush beans exhausted Au-
gust 15, follow with turnips exhausted by
October 15. Spade and trench soil deeply.

Any number of programs of this type may
be made up. The soil which after Decora-
tion Day will carry the tomato plants, .can
be made to yield abundant crops of all the
early vegetables before that date without
detriment to the tomatoes. In fact, continu-
ous working will improve the condition of
the soil considerably.

Another factor that will aid in working
out the program of intensive cultivation is

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

a knowledge of the time required by certain
crops to reach maturity. Summer lettuce
may be planted by the end of May in rows 2
feet apart Before the plants spread, a crop of
quick-growing radishes may have been har-
vested between the rows. The benefit in a
case of this kind is threefold — ^you get the
radishes, the lettuce gets extra cultivation
and the taller radish tops will temporarily
and partially shade the young tender lettuce
plants.

Cultivation Throughout Season. From
the time the first seedling plants peep
through the soil until Jack Frost nips be-
lated crops, the watchword in every regu-
lated garden should be constant cultiva-
tion. Not only should hand or wheel hoe be
kept going all the time, but the work should
be done thoroughly.

Experiments hare proved that gardens
can get along nicely with less moisture if
they receive more cultivation. This fact
alone should make cultivation look more at-
tractive to most planters. Close observation
will prove that in wet seasons all plants show

ii6

Onions: Top— Prize Taker. Middle— Left, Southport Yellow
Globe; right, Yellow Globe Danvera. Bottom — South-
pori White Globe,

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

more or less of a tendency to make big foli-
age growth, to the detriment of the crop of
vegetables desired. Some vegetables, of
course, like cabbage, cauliflower, etc., can
hardly get too much water. But this chap-
ter on cultivation is intended to convince
planters that it pays better to work the hoe
than to use the hose overtime.

Briefly, the constant use of the hose clogs
up the pores of the soil, produces big foliage
growth, washes away pollen and is detri-
mental to the formation of normal crops
with most vegetables. The benefits of con-
stant cultivation are the elimination of
weeds, thorough airing of the soil and the
formation of a dust mulch which conserves
the moisture below. Eliminating the weeds
gives each useful plant in the garden a
chance to develop in an ideal way and bear
the best crops possible.

The amount of cultivation a garden
should receive varies with different kinds of
soil. Stiff clay soil should be hoed more
freely than light sandy soil. Every crust
that forms after a rain should be promptly

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

broken. After the soil throughout the gar-
den is once brought into good condition by
deep and thorough cultivation, a stout, nar-
row rake is as good an instrument to keep
the surface loose as can be found. With it
there is less chance to do damage among
plants which have feeding roots close to the
surface than with a hand or a wheel hoe.
Early in the season, deep cultivation among
all garden crops is advisable. As the season
advances and plants spread, keep away from
their bases and cultivate shallow. Each
plant has a root system equal to more than
its top growth. Work around the base of
plants with a rake or some of the various
weeders that will not cut. Any serious dis-
turbance of the root system will affect the
productiveness of the plant.

Level cultivation is now practiced by
many planters in preference to hill methods.
Some of the reasons for this logical change
are that a hill will dry out quicker than a
row with a dust mulch. When hoeing a
hill to kill weeds, one is very apt to strike
deeper than around a plant receiving level

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

cultivation — to the detriment of important
feeding roots. The drainage which the hill-
method provides may easily be secured by
keeping the path between rows a little lower
in the center. This is a common occurrence,
since constant tramping will settle the soil
there most. Tall plants, such as tomatoes,
corn, bush Limas, etc., may be hilled slightly
to resist the wind. But otherwise keep
everything level as possible.

FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN

Part of the reasons why the home garden
does not yield all it should lies in the fact
that, with the approach of cold weather,
most people lose interest in the garden.
Weeds are allowed to grow rampant, corn
stalks, dead vines and plants, rubbish, stakes,
etc., are left on the ground to become the
plaything of wind and weather, to furnish
welcome hiding places for all kinds of in-
jurious insects.

It is safe to state that the efficiency of the
average garden would be increased 25 per

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

cent if proper attention were paid to fall
management. The fall is really the time to
lay the foundation for a better garden the
next season. No urgent planting or cultivat-
ing is pushing then, as in the spring. The
days are cool and work can be done quickly
with comfort. Briefly, fall operations in the
garden may be divided into three parts: i,
Taking care of crops on hand; 2, clearing
the ground and digging for extra early
spring crops; and 3, putting the soil in such
shape that it gets the most benefit out of a
short rest period.

Save Everything. Soon after repeated
frosts play havoc in the home garden all
sorts of vegetables become more expensive.
Save every fruit and every root and store
in safe, frost-proof places. Pick all green
tomatoes before they are touched by frost,
wrap in paper and put on a dry shelf. They
will ripen and color up nicely. Dig all root
crops, such as carrots, beets, and turnips, and
either bury them in trenches in the garden or
put them in boxes with sand in the cellar.
Parsnips and salsify are improved by frost,

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

SO you can let them wait until the last, or
some of them even until spring.

Celery should have been hilled through-
out August and September. With the ap-
proach of very cold weather put boards
along the rows, place straw over these and
throw soil on top to hold the straw in place.
Cut and burn all stalks of asparagus and
cover the bed, also the rhubarb bed, with
4 inches of coarse manure. Where winters
get severely cold without snow, it pays to
scatter marsh or salt hay over the strawberry
patch likewise. This is better than manure
because of its freedom from dry land weed
seeds.

Clear the Ground. Don't permit dead
plants, branches, vines, etc., to remain in the
garden all winter. Rake everything into a
pile and burn it. Then prepare several beds,
the same as in the spring, by carefully spad-
ing and raking the soil. The next year's
garden may be started in the fall by sowing
kale and spinach seeds in September. Soon,
the young plants will make a good growth ;
with the approach of severe cold weather

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

(Thanksgiving Day in the latitude of New
York), cover these plants with several
inches of straw or coarse strawy manure.

In October, secure some large onion sets,
averaging i to i J/^ inches in diameter. Plant
these in furrows 5 inches deep and fill in the
furrow gradually as tops grow up. When the
sprouts reach the top of the ground and the
weather becomes very cold, scatter some
coarse manure over this bed. These onions
will furnish the first scullions in the spring.

Finally, when the warm days of Indian
summer are past and winter starts seriously,
plant the rest of the prepared beds with a
few rows each of lettuce and smooth seeded
peas. This may seem like a radical de-
parture. But it is an established fact that
these seeds are perfectly hardy; they will lie
dormant in the ground all winter and start
to grow with the first signs of spring, long
before the soil can be put in shape in the
regular course of events.

Prepare Rest of Garden. Such portions
of the home garden as are not occupied by
standing vegetables, storage pits or newly

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

made beds should be dug or plowed deeply,
with deep trenches or furrows erery 5 feet,
These will provide quick drainage in the
spring and give the air a chance to sweeten
the soil. The ground can remain in rough
condition, because the influence of the frost
will make all lumps work up mellow in the
spring. This kind of work, if started early
enough, say by October i, pays one to sow
rye in unoccupied spaces.

HOTBED CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT

(By M. G. Kains)

Every home garden should have its hot-
bed to supply the various needs of the ama-
teur. Among the advantages to be gained
by starting plants under glass are the follow-
ing : The crops may be secured before their
normal season. Such plants as eggplants,
watermelons, and tomatoes may be devel-
oped so as to be transplanted and thus en-
able them to mature their fruits before frost
in the autumn. Time may be gained by hav-
ing plants such as lettuce, cabbage and many

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

of the annual flowers started for transplant-
ing and thus getting results earlier in the sea-
son than could be done were the seeds sown
out of doors. By forwarding plants under
glass two or more crops may be secured
from the same area during the season. A
great gain is made in combating weeds when
plants of good size are set from the hotbed
in the garden. Some plants, especially to-
mato, eggplant and pepper, produce larger
crops when started in this way. Crops
which normally finish their season in early
fall may be hastened so the ground may be
sown to a cover crop for supplying humus
when turned under the following spring.

One special advantage about the hotbed is
that when the gardener is a renter he need
not be at great expense to supply glass ; the
hotbed will take the place of a greenhouse
to a certain extent. As hotbeds are inex-
pensive, the amount of space devoted to
them may be increased from year to year
without much outlay. Then, too, they re-
quire less attention at night than do furnaces.
It must be remembered, however, that they

Papa's Little Brick Gaiheriii); Stone Tomaroea

Snowball Cauliflower (above), All Seasons Cabbage (below)

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

are inferior to greenhouses in every particu-
lar, though with skillful management they
can be made to produce excellent results.

The first requisite of a hotbed should be
an easily accessible water supply. Prefer-
ably the water should reach the hotbed
through buried metal pipes. The next best
plan is to have a spigot and hose. Always
such arrangements should be provided with
underground cutoffs so as to prevent injury
from frost, especially when not in use. The
beds should be as convenient as possible to
the house or the workshop where sowing,
potting and transplanting are to be done in
unpleasant weather. They should be pro-
tected from north and west winds either by
the wall of a building or a tight board fence
5 or 6 feet high. Hedges are fairly good
substitutes for walls and fences.

Where possible the exposure should be
directly south so as to get the full sun. The
next best exposure is southeastern, so the
morning sun will reach the frames without
obstruction. Where two rows of hotbeds
are used, ample space should be allowed be-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

tween them so the sash may be easily moved
into the alleyways. Eight feet is none too
much for alleys between the frames.

The time to make a pemianent hotbed is
in the autumn, before the ground is frozen.
Thus work and time can be saved. In order
to prevent the ground from being frozen
deeply in the pit, the hole should be filled
with fallen leaves or litter which may easily
be moved when the filling for femientation
is to be applied late in the winter or early
in the spring. This pit should be the same
width as the frame of the hotbed. The first
essential of the bed is that drainage should
be good either naturally or artificially. The
latter may be provided by tile running from
the bottom to some lower point. In most
soils, however, this precaution is unneces-
sary as the seepage of water will be good
enough. Stiff soils, however, usually need a
tile drain.

The proper depth for a hotbed pit will de-
pend largely upon the climate. In the lati-
tude of New York City and northward, the
depth may vary from 15 to 30 inches. In

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

the latitude of Washington, lo to 15 inches
may be sufficient. In the south the pit may
be dispensed with entirely. Depths of fer-
menting material from which the heat is de-
rived should be the full depth of the pit in
the North and from 6 to 12 inches in the
South.

The hotbed frame may be of brick, stone
or concrete. Where the gardener is owner
of the place, it is usually advisable to have
a permanent bed of masonry ; where he is a
renter, a wooden frame will answer all pur-
poses. Preferably locust, cedar or chestnut
should be chosen for the frame, as these
woods are most durable. The popular plan
is to use either locust or cedar for the posts
and chestnut or other less durable wood for
the sides and crossbars. The frame may be
of any desired length, preferably a multiple
of 3 feet, plus half an inch to allow for the
shrinking and swelling of the frames when
damp. Width should be half an inch less
than 6 feet, so that there may be no crack be-
tween the sash and the frame. These dimen-
sions are suggested because sash are made in

THE HOME yEGETABLE GARDEN

Standard sizes, 6 by 3 feet They can be pur-
chased at all seed supply stores.

The upper north side of the frame should
be 6 inches higher than the lower south side,
so as to give a good slope to the sash. The
easiest way to get this is to use boards 6 and
12 inches wide, respectively — usually one 6-
inch and two 12-inch boards on the upper
side and two 12-inch ones on the lower side.
These boards should always extend to the
bottom of the pit. At the corners the posts
should be made of 2 by 4-inch or heavier
scantling. The best frames are made when
the length of the boards is not more than 1 2
feet, with posts driven at the corners and
midway on each side. One hotbed of this
size will require four standard sash and will
supply the needs of an ordinary sized ama-
teur garden.

Cross bars or slides are not essential but
they are so convenient that they should al-
ways be used. A 2 by 3-inch piece of wood
is perhaps the most convenient size. It
should be smooth on the upper side so the
frames will slip easily across them. Some

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

gardeners like to have a ^-inch strip in the
middle of the upper side of each cross piece
to prevent binding of the sash. This is a
convenience. When placing the crossbars,
great care should be exercised to prevent
their being too close together, otherwise the
sash will stick and bind and be hard to man-
age. If the sashes are 3 feet wide the distance
from center to center of the crossbars should
be at least J4 inch greater.

None but the most durable wood should
be used for sash. Cypress is considered best,
with cedar second. White pine and other
soft woods are not desirable. Better buy
standard frames than have them made
locally, provided, of course, that the expense
of delivery is not excessive. Light sash are
easy to handle, but heavier ones are more
economical, since they prevent breakage to a
greater extent. Always the sash should be
thoroughly painted with white lead and oil
before the parts are put together. This is
usually done with standard sash. A light
iron rod across the middle adds greatly to
the strength of the sash, prevents spreading ,

29 :.

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

and breakage of glass. A priming coat of
paint should be applied before glazing.

None but glass of good quality should be
used. It is a matter of personal preference
whether the glass should overlap or come
end to end. By the former method a good
deal of shade is cast, especially after dirt
works in the cracks. By the latter method
there is likely to be leakage unless the edges
are very closely put together. After glazing
the sash should be again painted, and this
work should be repeated every year, prefer-
ably as soon as the season closes. They
should then be stacked in a dry place until
needed again.

Double glass sash have recently been
placed on the market. Their chief advan-
tages are that plants are given almost as thor-
ough protection as when single glass is used
and covered with straw mats. The labor of
managing the frames is reduced because
mats do not have to be handled morning and
evening. The plants under double glass
may receive light during the entire day be-
cause no mats are there to obstruct it !A

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

growing temperature is secured earlier and
maintained longer unless the sunshine is de-
ficient

Against these advantages are the disad-
vantages that double glass sash are heavier
to handle ; they cost about 30 per cent more
than single glass sash ; they accumulate and
retain moisture between the two layers ; are
not considered as durable as single glass
sash ; the two layers gather dirt between the
panes and thus reduce the amount of light
which should enter, and in consequence pro-
duce weaker plants.

The management of a hotbed is a compar-
atively simple matter. Anyone can do it
The principal things to remember are that
attention must be given at proper times both
to watering and to ventilating as well as to
the manual care of the plants. In each of
these lines there is nothing difficult, but un-
less the ventilation is properly managed, the
plants are likely to grow tall, spindling and
comparatively weak, at least unable to with-
stand the changes of temperature they will
naturally be exposed to when transplanted to

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

the garden. As to watering, there is nothing
difficult at alL The main thing is to see that
the plants do not suffer at any time. The
manual part consists merely in weeding and
thinning out the plants where the seeding
has been too thick.

In the latitude of New York city the time
to begin work with the amateur hotbed is
the latter part of February or the early part
of March. In the latitude of Boston work
may start somewhat later, and in that of
Washington, and southward, earlier. A
good rule by which the gardener may gauge
his time to start is to remember that for each
ICO miles north or south of the points men-
tioned he may allow a week in time. For
instance, at Albany the beds may be started
about lo days later than around New York
city, because Albany is about 150 miles
north. The reverse case need not be given.

The first thing to do is to remove the
leaves or litter which were placed in the pit
during the fall. The object of this litter is
to prevent deep freezing of the ground. The
labor of removing such material is much less

Green Curled Endive (abnve), Brussels Spro

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

than that of getting rid of earth, because
both leaves and litter being somewhat dry
will not freeze as much as soil. Of course,
where no pit has been dug the fermenting
material may be piled directly on the
ground. This, however, is not as advanta-
geous a method as the pit method. It should
be employed only when no pit can be made
in the fall.

The material most popularly used for
producing heat is horse manure which has
not been exposed to the weather. It must be
fresh or at least only a few days old. Spent
hops from breweries, tanbark and forest
leaves are sometimes used separately. They
are occasionally also used when mixed with
manure, the object being to lighten up the
fermenting material and prevent its becom-
ing either too compact or too loose. Where
the material is composed almost exclusively
of the manure, it may either fail to heat or
it may become too hot very suddenly and
then subside too quickly. In either case fail-
ure is almost sure to result. Perhaps the
best mixture for success is to use two parts

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

of manure with one part of litter consisting
either of leaves or straw. It is never satis-
factory to use shavings, especially those of
pine and other resinous woods for this pur-
pose.

Preparation of the composition should be-
gin at least a week before the time when the
beds will be wanted for seed sowing or trans-
planting. Ten or 1 2 days would be even bet-
ter. It is necessary, or at least advisable, to
have the shed in which the material is kept
during this time well protected so the mix-
ture may not be exposed to cold weather,
hard rains or other influences that would
hinder or even prevent fermentation. If the
material must be secured from cities and
shipped on railways or boats to the point of
use, it may already be in proper condition
for the pit upon arrival. Usually, however,
it should be piled and turned as described
below. This turning and piling is especially
necessary where the source of supply is close
at hand ; as, for instance, on one's own place
where a horse is kept

The piles should be made 4 or 5 feet wide

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

and 4 feet high. They may be any conveni-
ent length according to the quantity to be
handled. The material as thrown in the pile
should be firmed somewhat but not tramped
very compactly. If it is rather dry, and
especially if the weather is cold, an applica-
tion of hot water will be found advantageous,
since this will quickly start fermentation.
Under ordinary conditions the pile will be-
gin to emit steam in a day or two. After it
has steamed for one or two days, it should
be re-piled. In doing this, the outside parts
of the pile should be removed first and
placed so as to be inside of the new pile with
the inside of the old pile outside of the new
one. Two or three days later the whole
mass will have become warm or even hot.
It will then be ready for placing in the pit.
The principal care in filling the pit is to
see that the manure is evenly spread and
firmly packed. Special attention should be
given to the corners and to the sides. After
a layer of 4 to 6 inches has been thrown in
and spread around evenly it should be
firmly tramped down. Extra manure

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

should be placed along the sides and in the
corners at this time and firmed even more
than any other part of the bed. Two, three
or more layers should be added and tramped
down in similar fashion. After the tramp-
ing has been done, every square foot of the
bed should be gone over and every hollow
spot filled up so the whole mass may be of
even thickness. In spite of all this precau-
tion of tramping, the mass will settle as fer-
mentation progresses, so it is advisable to
have an abundant thickness to offset this
settling. A foot to even 30 inches is used,
according to the latitude or the altitude of
the locality, and somewhat to the character
of plants to be grown in the beds.

After the mass has been put in place a
layer of soil from 4 to 6 inches deep must be
placed upon it. Preferably this material
should have been kept under cover where it
has not been frozen. Where the soil has
been frozen, a much longer time must be al-
lowed for thawing out and getting the bed
in order for planting. When seeds are to be
sown in flats or seed pans, a depth of only

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

2 inches of soil need be placed over the fer-
menting material. This will be sufficient, as
a general thing, to absorb steam and to keep
the air comparatively pure and free from
the gases of fermentation. Nothing is bet-
ter than soil as an absorber of such gases. It
is a good plan to bank the outside of the hot-
bed frame with the same material as used in
the bottom, so as to aid in maintaining the
temperature inside. This material should
be tramped down very thoroughly. It may
extend even to the top of the frame outside.
No seeds should ever be sown and no
plants should ever be placed in a hotbed un-
til after the fierce temperature has settled to
90 degrees or less. At first there will be an
almost sudden rise of temperature to per-
haps 100 degrees or even more. This will
subside in a week or two. If plants or seeds
are put in before the subsidence the chances
are they will be ruined. With such plants
as cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower and other
vegetables that germinate at comparatively
low temperatures the heat of the hotbed may
be allowed to subside to 60 degrees or even

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

less. Of course, these temperatures imply
that the hotbed has been covered by the sash.

In the latitude of New York city it is
usual to sow in February or early March
seeds of such plants as tomatoes, cabbage
and other subjects that either require a long
season or must be set out early, and then to
pick out the seedlings when they show the
first or the second true leaves. Preferably
the seedlings should be placed in flats an
inch or so apart each way and later trans-
planted into flower pots from which they
may be set in the garden.

Many crops other than those started in the
hotbed for transplanting may be grown by
this method. Among the principal are set
onions, radishes, lettuce, mustard and pep-
pergrass. These may be started at any time
and utilized as rapidly as they reach edible
size. A convenient way for economizing
space is to sow the lettuce (which when full
grown occupies most room) in alternate
rows with peppergrass, mustard, radish or
onions, each of which may be expected to be
out of the way before the lettuce will require

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

all the Space. By this method it is also un-
derstood that the lettuce plants shall be
thinned frequently, the first time to stand an
inch apart. Each subsequent thinning
should remove the alternate plants, thus leav-
ing those that remain respectively 2, 4 and
lastly 8 inches apart.

By the time the plants have been reduced
to 8 inches the first sowings in the open
ground should be ready for use and the crop
in the hotbed may be rapidly cleared out,
the soil raked over and made ready for a
crop of cucumbers, melons or tomatoes.
Plants for these crops may be started in a
corner of the hotbed, preferably in flower
pots or berry boxes. These plants should
yield fruit three weeks to two months earlier
than those started in the open ground.

PART II

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

THE great majority of American plant-
ers dislike to try new things. Part of
the blame must be put on those seedsmen
who either pushed novelties prematurely or
promulgated inferior sorts with new names.
The result has been distrust which cannot
be wiped out in one generation. Many gar-
deners are thus very backward when it
comes to taking advantage of new things.

Another reason for the existence of this
condition is the attitude of our agricultural
and horticultural educators. Most writers
on gardening dislike to make positive state-
ments with reference to varieties, preferring
to follow the footsteps of others. To pursue
an absolutely safe course they constantly
recommend such things as Golden Wax
beans, Marblehead Mammoth cabbage,
Advancer peas, etc. As a matter of fact, pro-
gressive planters and seedsmen throughout
the country are discarding these and many

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

Other sorts on account of their shortcomings
when compared with newer sorts of better
quality.

So, with a limited knowledge of garden-
ing to begin with, and certain sources of
information giving antiquated advice, it is
small wonder that the amateur gardener is
groping in the dark most of the time, feeling
his way along and learning slowly at ex-
cessive expense of time and money. To
remedy to some extent the existence of these
conditions is the purpose of the following
discussions on individual vegetables.

On account of the long life which a work
of this kind enjoys, great care has been exer-
cised to recommend only such sorts and
types as are firmly established and will come
true to descriptions and ideals of planters.
Special reference has been made, where
possible, to highly specialized character-
istics and tendencies of certain kinds. No
one sort of vegetable will do equally well on
all soils or in all climates. Not all the strong
characteristics of a sort will show up equally
well under various conditions. But merit

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

will show everywhere and a good kind will
always do better than a poor kind under the
same conditions.

ASPARAGUS

While an asparagus bed bears only a short
season, the fact that the product can never be
bought cheaply, makes it worth while to
have a few rows in even the small garden.
Moreover, some short-season crops like
curly lettuce, radishes and onions from sets
may be grown between the rows early in the
season should garden space be very limited.

An asparagus bed can be started in two
ways — sowing seeds or setting out roots. A
5-cent packet of seed will produce all the
plants needed for a small home garden.
Seeds should be sown in rather sandy soil,
in rows, half an inch deep, with 12 inches
between the rows. When they are 4 to 6
inches tall, they may be thinned out to stand
6 inches apart in the row. The next year
they should be lifted and transplanted in
their permanent place, 1 2 inches apart in the
row, with at least 2 feet between the rows,

TomaiocB, Stone (above), Chalk's Early Jewel (beli

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

Experiments have proved that two-year-
old roots are the most practical size to set
out. Where quick results are wanted, three-
year-old roots deserve the preference. A bed
of two-year-old roots should not be cut the
first year. A well-established bed will bear
many years.

Good sorts for the home garden are Early
Argenteuil, Palmetto and Columbian Mam-
moth White.

BEANS

Three broad divisions and numerous sub-
divisions make beans interesting! The ama-
teur is usually acquainted with the three
broad divisions: Bush, Lima, and Pole beans.
These are named here in order of their im-
portance to the planter. No other vegeta-
bles will yield more profitable crops in the
home garden. To get the most out of them,
a clear analysis of one's likes and dislikes as
well as a thorough understanding of varie-
ties is absolutely necessary. Most people
think of beans as "string beans." Please be-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

gin to think that beans with strings do not
deserve to be planted or cooked. Thanks
to the efforts of American plant breeders we
have now a splendid assortment of both
green and yellow podded beans free of
strings. To these achievements of American
horticulture due credit shall be given here.

BUSH BEANS

Nature divided bush beans into two dis-
tinct classes, viz.: Wax podded and green
podded sorts. In both classes are found
round podded and flat podded kinds. So
far as flavor goes, experts disagree whether
there is a difference or not between the wax
and the green podded sorts. But more good
quality points, such as brittleness, stringless-
ness, productiveness, etc., are found among
the round podded sorts. Those sorts among
the flat podded beans worthy of being put
in the "quality" class are mentioned below.

In the home garden, quality is easily the
most important point to be considered. At
the same time, the question of quantity or

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

productiveness cannot be disregarded be-
cause each row should bear maximum
yields. The selected list below contains the
foremost sorts possessing both points in a
large degree.

Green Podded Sorts. According to their
season of bearing pods fit for table use, sorts
are divided into early, mid-season and late
kinds. The title for the earliest good home
garden bean is disputed by Stringless Green
Podded and Bountiful. The latter is a very
productive, flat podded sort, of superb qual-
ity, while Stringless Green Podded is round
and very meaty. Early Round Podded Red
Valentine is often recommended. While
it is, perhaps, a few days earlier than either
of the above sorts, it does not deserve a place
in the home garden, because its pods are
short and soon become stringy.

Two good midseason kinds are Longfel-
low, a round podded sort, about lo days later
than Stringless Green Podded. It should be
picked regularly, as old pods have some
strings. Full Measure, with long, perfectly
round, brittle pods is a splendid sort, of great

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

productiveness and good quality. The most
popular late green podded sort is Refugee
or I, (XX) to I. While it is very productive,
it is stringy and has lots of fiber in the pods.
The new Stringless Refugee, now firmly
fixed and sold by most seedsmen, is devoid
of this unpleasant feature and bears hand-
some, light green, semi-round pods about
4j4 inches long.

fFax Podded Sorts. In Brittle Wax we
have the earliest of all round podded wax
beans. The lemon yellow pods average 5
inches long; are slightly curved, very brit-
tle and absolutely stringless. Following
Brittle Wax comes Hardy Wax, with
slightly shorter pods, but more of them.
Round Podded Kidney Wax belongs in the
same class with above two. All these early
sorts have perfectly round pods and are
stringless. For a succession in crops Bur-
pee's New Kidney Wax should be used in
place of WardwelPs Kidney Wax. It out-
yields this old sort two to one, and has hand-
somer pods and no strings whatever. New
Kidney Wax is a flat podded sort, but re-

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

markably meaty, and from 5J^ to 7 inches
long.

The latest of the wax beans is Stringless
Refugee Wax, sometimes called Pencil Pod
Wax. It is a full-blooded brother of String-
less Refugee, described under green podded
sorts, and possesses all the good points found
in that kind.

The above limited list contains some of
the best bush beans in cultivation today.
For the home garden these varieties are un-
excelled. They are just as easily grown and
managed as some of the old standbys. A
row 15 feet long, planted every week up to
August I, will supply all the beans a family
of five can use. Plant bush beans in rows, 30
inches apart, place beans 4 inches apart in
row and hill plants slightly to keep pods
off the ground. Do not pick while vines are
wet ; it causes blight. One pint of seeds con-
tains enough for the average home garden.

POLE BEANS

To get the best out of pole beans, the
ground should be made very rich. A good

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

method is to set the stakes 3 feet apart each
way and pile well-rotted manure around
them. Cover with 4 to 6 inches of soil and
plant seeds, four to a hill, eye down, about 2
inches deep, after nights become thoroughly
warm. Where poles are scarce, set a post at
each end of the row and connect tops of posts
with a stout wire. From the wire run
strings 6 inches apart to the ground, fasten-
ing them on small stakes stuck in the row.

Twenty hills are ample for the home gar-
den. Plant either White Creaseback, Bur-
ger's Stringless or Lazy Wife's Pole — the
three best green podded sorts. The best
known yellow podded sort is Golden Cluster
Wax. For shell beans for winter use, Horti-
cultural or Speckled Cranberry is the most
popular.

LIMA BEANS

There are bush and pole varieties of
Limas. None should be planted until the
trees are out in full leaf. As they are by far
the latest maturing of all beans, it pays to
start some in paper pots in the house for ex-

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

tra early use. Plant two beans to a 3-inch
pot and, when cool nights are past, set young
seedlings in the hills, pots and all, tearing
out the bottom before setting. When plants
reach the tops of the poles, pinch out the
center so as to throw the strength back into
the plant and hasten the formation of pods.

The best Bush Limas to date are Burpee's
Bush Lima, Fordhook and Burpee Im-
proved. The last named will, in time,
take the place of Burpee's Bush Lima, while
Fordhook is the best form of the type with
fat beans as represented by Dreer's Bush
Lima.

The earliest and best pole Lima for the
home garden is the small but very prolific
Sieva Lima — the butterbean of the South.
Henderson's Leviathan is a heavy bearing
sort of good quality. King of the Garden
will be the standard late pole Lima until
Burpee's Giant Podded becomes better
known.

BEETS

Beets are one of the most profitable crops
in the home garden. They are easily man-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

aged and grown, have no insect enemies of
any account and are not at all particular as
to soil. For a constant supply from the mid-
dle of June until frost, plant 15 feet of row
every other week from early spring until the
end of July. If this advice is followed, one
of the early sorts mentioned below should be
selected for the successive sowings.

Sow the seeds thinly in rows 12 to 18
inches apart, half an inch deep. Soak the
seeds in warm water overnight and be sure
to walk over the rows after covering the
seeds. Doing so presses the soil in firm con-
tact with them and insures quick and even
germination. This is especially important
during the summer when the soil is dry.

When the young seedlings are 2 inches
tall, thin them out to stand 4 inches apart in
the row. Hoe close to the row when culti-
vating. [As beets depend mostly upon long
tap roots, the soil in the bed should be kept
loose all the time to a considerable depth.

'A perfect succession of fine tender beets
may be assured by paying some attention to
varieties. Best earliest sorts are Electric,

Radish (above), Peas (below)

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

Crimson Globe, and Detroit Dark Red.
These have small foliage and mature, under
favorable circumstances, in about two
months. Following these come Early
Model, Crosby's Egyptian, Dewing's Im-
proved Blood and Bastian's Half Long. In
the order mentioned these mature in 70 to
100 days. For repeated sowing late in the
season, use only the earliest sorts.

Swiss Chard is a variety of beet grown
only for the tops, which make excellent
greens during summer. Rows of Swiss
Chard should be placed at least 2 feet apart
and the plants thinned to stand 6 inches and
finally a foot apart in the row. A well-
developed individual plant will contain at
least a dozen fine leaf-stalks. Use the foli-
age part for greens and prepare the center
ribs like asparagus. Always cut the largest
sidestalks. If the center of the plant re-
mains undisturbed, it will continue to bear
all season. A 20-foot row will furnish an
abundance of greens during July and Au-
gust for a family of four.

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN
BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Just why this wholesome vegetable is not
better known, remains a puzzle. Perhaps
one of the reasons is that people think it
hard to grow because the sprouts sell usually
at 25 cents a quart. Brussels sprouts are as
easily grown, in the same way, as late cab-
bages. In most sections heat, dry weather
and insects cause early sowings to fail.

Set the plants 2 feet apart each way in
well-enriched ground. Cultivate freely,
hilling slightly and if the cabbage worms
bother the plants, sprinkle occasionally with
a weak solution of bordeaux mixture. The
most desirable sorts in cultivation are Paris
Market, Long Island Improved and Danish
Prize.

CABBAGE

With careful management, home garden
cabbages may be enjoyed the year round.
Before the stored supply of winter cabbages
becomes exhausted, the earliest new cabbage
should mature in the garden. During July,

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

August and September, the midseason sorts
will be fit to use and the winter sorts in Oc-
tober will again round the circle of contin-'
uous supply from snow to snow.

The question of a year's cabbage supply
depends largely upon three things: The
amount of space at one's disposal, the
thoughtfulness of the planter in starting
plants at the proper time and the selection
of the correct varieties for various seasons
and purposes. Cabbages take up consider-
able space and the value of the finished
product to the square foot does not come up
to that of beans, for instance. It pays well
therefore, to do some careful figuring in
connection with this crop early in the sea-
son. After a decision is reached, prepare
for a succession by making timely sowings as
follows :

About March ist, sow seeds of early sorts
and midseason varieties in a hotbed, in rows
a quarter-inch deep with 4 inches between
the rows. When the seedlings develop the
second pair of leaves, transplant into a cold
frame 4 inches apart each way. Harden the

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

plants gradually by airing the frame freely.
By April 15 they may safely be set in the
open ground. Slight, subsequent frosts will
not injure them. Set the small extra early
sorts 2 feet apart each way and cultivate
both ways. Dust with tobacco dust, ground
lime or slug shot to prevent damage by the
little green cabbage louse or aphis. When
setting the plants in the open ground, watch
that they are planted deeply so most of the
stem will be submerged.

By the end of May, seeds of the best win-
ter varieties should be sown in the same
manner as described above, in a carefully
worked over cold frame or a thoroughly
prepared seedbed outdoors. It is customary
to sow seeds very thinly in rows 4 inches
apart and to thin out the seedlings to stand
4 inches apart in the row. This saves trans-
planting. Late in July or early iji August
these seedlings are transplanted into their
permanent place, 2 feet apart in the row and
2 J^ to 3 feet between the rows. When setting
them, pour about a pint of water into each
of the holes opened to receive the plants.

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

Fill the holes with loose soil, which should
be pressed in firm contact with the plants.

In some sections of the East, a final sow-
ing of cabbage is made in September. Early
sorts are used; the young seedlings are
transplanted and wintered over in cold
frames to be set out very early in the spring.
Plants handled in this manner will mature
heads lo days to two weeks sooner than those
started in the hotbed in March.

Undisputedly the best of all early cab-
bages for the home garden is Jersey Wake-
field, a pointed-headed small sort of splen-
did quality. Allhead Early, is a close suc-
cessor with slightly larger round heads. In
Succession and All Seasons we have the two
best midseason sorts. These, as well as All-
head Early, are also splendid keepers.
Many growers treat them just like winter
sorts later in the season because on account
of their compact growth they yield more
heads to the acre than the late, large-spread-
ing sorts.

The two best winter cabbages in cultiva-
tion today are Premium Flat Dutch and

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

Danish Ballhead One strain or another of
either of these two sorts is sure to give satis-
faction in all sections of this country.

Finally, try a few Savoy and a few red
cabbages. The Savoy varieties are of dis-
tinctly delicate flavor — ideal for the home
garden. As plants of these can rarely be
bought, they usually have to be started by
the private planter. Perfection Drumhead
Savoy is the recognized leader in this class,
while among Red Cabbages, Danish Round
Red possesses the most desirable qualities.

CAULIFLOWER

The high price which this vegetable com-
mands in the market will cause any space
devoted to it to bear a handsome revenue.
Two factors are absolutely necessary to in-
sure success with cauliflower: Very rich soil
and lots of water. Seeds should be started
with those of late cabbages. Set plants in
the garden the end of June or the beginning
of July. Don't get them mixed with cab-
bages, as the young plants cannot be told
apart.

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Where hand cultivation is employed,
plants may be set as close as 2 feet apart each
way. For horse-cultivation, leave 3 feet be-
tween the rows, with plants 2 feet apart in
the rows. Hoe freely and water often. Let
the ground be soaked through and through
at least once a week during the development
of heads. A lack of moisture at that period
causes stunted heads. Hill slightly, to sup-
port the stems.

When the heads get the size of an orange,
gather the largest outside leaves loosely and
tie them together at the tips, forming little
hoods over the heads. This will keep off the
sun, insects and at the same time blanch
them. Two dozen plants are usually all one
wants in the home garden.

Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt is a splendid
but small sort for first crop. It is closely fol-
lowed in season of maturity by Snowball, a
well-known, highly satisfactory kind of
good size. Dry Weather or Gilt Edge is,
perhaps, the most drouth-resisting sort,
though a little later and larger than either
of the other two.

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

CARROTS

These should be grown more because they
are so wholesome and so easily managed.
As the seeds sprout very slowly, it is advis-
able to sow them with some quick-growing
short-season crop like spinach or radishes.
Sow both kinds of seeds in the same drill, a
quarter inch deep with 12 to 1 8 inches be-
tween the rows. The strongly germinating
radish or spinach seeds will break the hard
crust for the carrot seedlings, which will
likewise be benefited by subsequent thin-
ning and cultivation of the short-season
crop.

For a continuous supply sow a 15-foot
row of Early Scarlet Horn as soon as the
ground can be worked. Two weeks later
sow Chantenay and two weeks after that
Danvers. This will insure carrots that are
just right throughout the summer. During
July make a second sowing of Chantenay
and Danvers, which will furnish the winter
supply of this delicious vegetable.

t Podded Pole Lima Bean

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES
CELERY

Too many home gardeners neglect this
crop, which offers one of the opportunities
to make garden space pay extra dividends.
A good practice is to buy plants about the
first week of July and set them in rows
which formerly grew beans. Those who
prefer to start at the beginning, should pro-
ceed as follows :

For the early crop sow seeds of an extra
early sort in the middle of February in the
hotbed in rows, a quarter inch deep, with 3
to 4 inches between the rows. As soon as
the seedlings are large enough to be handled,
transplant into a cold frame 2 to 3 inches
apart each way. Water freely and fre-
quently throughout development of plants.
By the middle of May, these plants will
usually be large enough to be set in the gar-
den, 6 inches apart in the rows, with 254 to
3 feet between the rows. The variety espe-
cially suitable to be grown in this manner
is White Plume.

Along in April, make a carefully pre-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

pared seedbed in a sheltered corner of the
garden, to start plants for successive and late
crops. Sow seeds in the same manner as de-
scribed above and transplant seedlings later
on to another bed. At least one transplant-
ing should be practiced with celery, or the
plants will not have that well-developed
root system which is so essential to produce
the plump, finished stalks. When trans-
planting the seedlings, and also when finally
setting out the plants, trim both roots and
tops. It will help them to recover quicker
from shock. Use Paris Golden Self-Blanch-
ing and Giant Pascal for successive and late
crops.

Begin blanching in August by drawing
loose soil up to the stalks, which should be
gathered carefully. Be sure not to get any
soil into the heart of the plants and never
hill while the plants are wet from rain or
dew. Celeriac is a turnip-rooted kind of
celery grown for its fleshy roots, which make
elegant salad. It is handled exactly like
stalk celery, but should receive level culti-
vation.

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES
SWEET CORN

The introduction of several dwarf, com-
pact-growing sorts of corn makes this lus-
cious vegetable available for even the small-
est garden. True, these small sorts bear
small ears. But their flavor, as a rule, is
delightful, and the opportunity of having
delicious sweet corn within one's reach at
the critical moment well compensates for
loss of size in ear. The critical moment
with sweet corn is between the time the ears
are pulled and the time they are dropped
into boiling water. Six weeks of work reap
often poor rewards when this point is over-
looked.

For earliest ears, sow seeds of Peep o'
Day and Golden Bantam in rows, 2 inches
deep, 4 inches apart in row, with 2 to 2j^
feet between the rows, as soon as danger of
frost is over. When the young plants are 4
inches tall, thin them to stand i foot apart
in the row. As they grow taller, hill
slightly. A common practice among home
gardeners to secure extra early corn is to

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

Start several dozen paper pots with two or
three seeds each in the house by the middle
of April. Kept in a warm temperature and
well watered, these pots will soon contain
several young plants each. Set them out by
the middle of May in hills 2j^ to 3 feet
apart each way and protect during cool
nights.

Cultivated all the time, corn will stand a
remarkable amount of dry weather,provided
a dust mulch is maintained between the
rows. Two rows each 1 5 feet long of these
two sorts will provide at least 3 dozen ears
during the middle of July.

For successive crops the planter may
either make repeated sowings of these small
sorts every other week up to the middle of
July or sow some larger, later sorts. Two
splendid midseason sorts, which will mature
ears between the extra early and late kinds,
are Kendel's Early Giant and Cosmopoli-
tan. Crosby's Early, another well-known
second early sort, should be used with cau-
tion in the home garden, because its flavor
does not come up to that of other sorts dur-

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

ing the summer ; planted late to mature dur-
ing the cdol fall months, it is unsurpassed.

Three splendid late types, which furnish
the sweet corn season, are Red Cob Ever-
green, White Evergreen and Country
Gentleman. All these late sorts should
be planted deeper than the early, small
kinds, so as to give them the benefit of
a firmer foundation and deeper root-
ing. Also, put 3 to 4 feet of space be-
tween the rows and hill them more to resist
wind. Few if any of the late sorts surpass
a good strain of the old-fashioned Red Cob
Evergreen in flavor. White Evergreen is
the most highly developed form of the pop-
ular StowelPs Evergreen, which sort it sur-
passes in color and uniformity of ears.
Country Gentleman is, perhaps, the most
widely grown of the three. Many people
call it Shoe Peg corn on account of the ir-
regularity of the grains in the ears. This
has always been considered an indication of
excellent quality.

TH£ HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN
CUCUMBERS

The rather compact space to which the
cucumber may be confined by pinching out
the tips of the vines make it available for
even small gardens. While cucumbers are
generally grown in hills, they may likewise
be trained to trellises, thus economizing
space. Where space is plentiful, build hills
about 6 inches above the surface of the
ground, placing them 2 to 3 feet apart each
way. Make the hills of well rotted manure
or compost and cover these with about 4
inches of good soil. Sow a dozen seeds to
each hill, planting them a quarter inch deep
in heavy soil and from J/^ to i inch deep in
light sandy soil, which cucumbers like best.
After the young plants make the fourth leaf,
and danger from insects is past, thin them
out to three strong plants in the hill. Pick
the fruits regularly, to insure a continuous
growth. Great care should be exercised
in gathering the fruits, since pulling or jerk-
ing the vines will prove injurious. Cut,
don't pull.

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

The first planting may be made as soon as
the nights are thoroughly warm ; late pickles
should be planted toward the end of June.
The best sorts for the home garden are of the
White Spine type. While the Early Russian
is the earliest of all cucumbers, it is not
recommended for general use on account of
its insignificant size, short bearing season,
and indifferent quality. Fordhook Pickling,
Davis' Perfect, and London Long Green are
all good strains of the White Spine cucum-
ber, and prove satisfactory with planters
throughout this country. Japanese Climb-
ing cucumbers rank first for training vines
to trellises, because numerous tendrils
cause them to climb readily. The only seri-
ous insect pest endangering cucumbers is a
small, yellow and black striped beetle. As
soon as it appears, dust the plant with slug
shot or paris green mixed with land plaster.
It attacks only young plants and is easily de-
feated if attacked in time.

EGGPLANTS

Being of tropical origin, the seeds require
a very high degree of heat for proper ger-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

mination. On account of this, and because
a dozen plants are usually all required for
the home garden, it pays best, perhaps, to
secure plants from some near-by florist or
seedsman. Eggplants like rather sandy soil,
enriched with plenty of well-rotted manure,
Set out plants any time after Decoration
Day in rows, z feet apart, with 3 feet be-
tween the rows. Hill slightly, to support
the plants and keep the fruits off the ground.
Dust young plants with slug shot or paris
green mixed with 50 parts of flour, to pre-
vent the potato beetle from doing damage.
New York Improved Purple is the standard
in all parts of the country, while .Black
Beauty is a somewhat earlier sort of great
popularity in the east

ENDIVE

While endive may be had very early in
the season by sowing seeds and treating
plants exactly like early lettuce, it is far
better treated as a fall crop, because then
other salad plants are scarce. Sow the seeds

tIP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

early in June in a well-prepared bed, the
same as lettuce. When the seedlings are 2
to 3 inches high, transplant them to stand
4 inches apart in a shaded bed or a cold
frame. In the middle of August they should
be transplanted to the garden a foot apart,
with 2 feet between the rows. Fifty to 75
plants are all an average family would use.
When the plants are a foot across, gather
the leaves and tie the tips together to blanch
the heart of the plant. Be sure to open the
plants after a rain to permit drying. Do not
blanch more plants at one time than can be
used. Two distinct types — Green Curled
and White Curled — are available. There
is very little, if any, difference in their qual-
ity and time of maturity.

KALE

A very hardy variety of cabbage, form-
ing flat, spreading plants with many curly
leaves. As a winter vegetable for greens it
has few equals. Start the seeds at the same
time and in the same way as late cabbage.

THE HOME J^EG£TABL£ OAtlDEN

The end of July transplant the seedlings into
rows I foot apart with 2 feet between the
rows. Cultivate the same as cabbage. With
the approach of cold weather gather the
plants, hill slightly and protect with straw
and boards. They stand considerable frost,
which improves the quality. Dwarf Ger-
man is the best sort for home use. A row
30 feet long, furnishes an ample supply for
an average family.

KOHLRABI

This member of the cabbage family is
grown for its fleshy stems which make an
excellent dish, boiled and stewed like tur-
nips. Kohlrabi is a distinct cool season
vegetable, doing its best only early in the
spring and towards fall. Treat seeds and
plants like early and late cabbage. For late
crops it is best to sow the seeds in rows
where the plants are to mature. When 4
inches tall, thin the seedlings to stand 6
inches apart in the row. Use the stems while
young and tender. For winter use, store in

Ufi-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

a frost-proof cellar in boxes with sand.
Early White Vienna is the most popular
sort in cultivation today.

LEEK

Highly esteemed for soups and as a salad.
Sow at the same time and treat exactly like
onions. Transplant the seedlings to stand
4 inches apart in the row, and permit about
2 feet space between the rows. When the
stalks are nearly full grown — about ij4
inches in diameter — hill them to blanch. A
row 20 feet long furnishes an ample supply
for all purposes. Leeks keep splendidly
and as they are hardy may be left where they
grow, with a protection of boards; or they
may be taken into the cellar, where they may
be stored in the same manner as celery or
carrots.

LETTUCE

Notwithstanding the fact that lettuce is
one of the easiest grown vegetables, it is sel-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

dom one finds it of good quality in the home
garden throughout the season. The reason
is partly hot weather. Then again, planters
do not pay enough attention to the proper
selection of varieties for different seasons of
the year.

No other vegetable shows as distinct char-
acteristics as lettuce, adapting its various
classes to different seasons. Most books state
plainly which sorts do best during spring,
summer, or fall. Still, planters disregard
these facts, and thus secure bitter, tough let-
tuce, unfit for culinary purposes. The ques-
tion of good lettuce in the home garden may
therefore be sifted down to two points:
Proper growing and correct sorts. The best
of cultivation would not help May King to
form good heads during July and August,
while Iceberg would make only a fair
growth during its proper season if cultiva-
tion were neglected.

For a succession of lettuce start the seeds
of the earliest sorts in a cold frame by
March 15. By April 15 these plants should
be set in the garden, possibly between rows

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

of slower growing vegetables, placing plants
a foot apart to permit of perfect develop-
ment. Between April 5 and 15, depending
upon the condition of the soil and the season,
the first planting should be made outdoors,
selecting, again, early sorts. About May i,
sow seeds of solid heading, midseason varie-
ties which will stand the heat of July and
August without detriment to their quality.
Finally, during July, sow again seeds of
early sorts, which will head rapidly during
the cool fall months and furnish the last let-
tuce of the season.

While lettuce is a shade-loving plant, and
thrives best in cool, moist weather, proper
cultivation will overcome unfavorable
weather conditions every time. Lettuce
likes plenty of hoeing, and more hoeing.
Keep a dust mulch around the plants and
they will stand a surprising amount of dry
weather and hot sun. No other vegetable
will respond more gratefully to. individual
attention than lettuce. A well-grown, solid,
crisp head is well worth all the trouble one
takes to grow it

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

One of the points necessary to grow per-
fect lettuce, is timely thinning of the young
plants to stand the proper distance apart in
the row. As soon as seedlings are 3 to 4
inches high, thin them to stand 4 inches
apart in the row. When their spreading
leaves begin to crowd, cut out every other
plant. Eight inches is usually enough space
for the small, early sorts. But sorts like Ice-
berg and New York should have another
thinning, leaving the plants finally 12 to 16
inches apart in the row. Do not delay this
work, for as soon as lettuce plants become
crowded they cease developing and tend to
form seed stalks before becoming fully de-
veloped.

The earliest sorts are divided into loose-
leaved and heading varieties. Early Curled
Simpson, Black Seeded Simpson, Bon Ton
and Prizehead are the best of the loose-
leaved type. They mature in the order men-
tioned. Head lettuce of earliest maturity
are Wayahead, May King, Golden Queen
and California Cream Butter. All form
heads within a week of each other if sown

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

outdoors by the middle of April, following
closely those that were transplanted from
the cold frame at the same time.

Among the midseason sorts are two dis-
tinct divisions: Butterhead and crisphead
— one with smooth, fatty leaves and the
other with brittle, crisp leaves and promi-
nent midribs. The best butterhead lettuce
in this class is All Seasons, with Deacon as
a close rival. All Seasons may be described
as a black-seeded Deacon. There is very
little difference in the quality of the plants.

The list of good crisphead sorts is long
indeed, but any of the three sorts mentioned
here will come up to quality requirements.
Iceberg heads the list, with its handsome,
light green, shapely heads. Denver Mar-
ket is noticeable on account of its peculiarly
"savoyed" or curly outside leaves. New
York or Wonderful is the latest, but largest
of this trio, forming remarkable heads of
dark green outside color.

Finally, the Cos or Romaine lettuces de-
serve a few words of recommendation.
Their upright, compact growth adapts them

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

ideally to the home garden. When planted
between tomatoes or in the cabbage patch
they will form upright, elongated heads,
which should be blanched like celery for
best quality.

MUSKMELONS

The only way to get muskmelons that
are just right in quality is to grow them in
one's own garden. While they take up more
space than other vegetables, and returns to
the square foot are not so large, they may
be confined to certain limits by pinching off
the ends of the main shoots early in the sea-
son. This causes a more compact growth
with many lateral branches and likewise in-
duces plants to bear earlier.

Muskmelons are usually planted in hills,
5 feet apart each way, placing about a dozen
seeds in each hill. As soon as young plants
appear, sprinkle them slightly with slug-
shot, to defy the insects. After seedlings
have become well established, reduce them
to three of the strongest plants in each hill.

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

Weed the hills cautiously, and never hoe
deeply, as muskmelons resent the least dis-
turbance of their root systems. Some extra
early fruits may be secured by starting
plants in paper pots or boxes early in the
house or frames. When setting these in the
garden watch that the rootball remains un-
disturbed.

So long as only a limited number of hills
can be accommodated in the home garden,
it pays to give serious thought to the selec-
tion of the proper sorts at the start. Two
distinct classes, one green-fleshed, the other
salmon-fleshed, contain muskmelons for
everybody's taste. The green-fleshed sorts
are perhaps the more popular, though many
yellow or salmon-fleshed sorts possess a qual-
ity not met with among the green-fleshed
kinds. The highest quality is usually found
among the small kinds, which -are also the
most productive. v v

Rocky Ford or Netted Gem is the nttdst
popular greeri-fleshed cants^i|upe in cultiva-
tion. Jenny Lind is an oldy very luscious,
small, early sort, of great favor in many sec-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

tions in the east. Those who want a larger
green-fleshed melon should try either
Matchless, Acme, or Ohio Sugar. All are
of fine quality and ideal for the home
garden.

The salmon-fleshed sorts possess that
peculiar musky flavor responsible for the
name of this fruit. Their requirements as
to culture and soil do not differ from those
of the green-fleshed varieties. Emerald
Gem is a small, deeply ribbed, very sweet
sort of great popularity in all sections.
Fordhook, a small but very delicious new
sort of recent introduction, embodies table,
as well as shipping qualities in an unusual
degree. Burrell's Gem may be described as
a salmon-fleshed Rocky Ford. It is more
oval in shape and runs a little larger than
that popular sort.

WATERMELON

The general management of watermelons
in the home garden differs little from that of
muskmelons, for which explicit directions

Lettuce, May Kinf; (above), Wayahead (below)

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

are given in the preceding chapter. Owing
to their rampant growth, it is almost impos-
sible to confine them to any boundary —
hence watermelons are not recommended for
home gardens with limited space.

The hills of watermelons should be placed
9 to 10 feet apart each way. The thinning
process, and general care of plants, while
young, does not vary to any extent from that
of the muskmelon. Cultivate just as long as
you can do so without disturbing the vines.
Stepping on them will stop their growth, and
in this respect watermelons are easily the
most sensitive of all the vining plants.
About a dozen hills will provide all the
fruit the average family needs for home
consumption. As watermelons require a
long growing season, successive plantings
are rather out of the question, so an early
and a late variety should be grown in order
to make sure of a continuous supply
throughout the season.

The earliest watermelons of good size,
and one that is ideal for the home garden, is
Fordhook Early, a round melon with dark

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

green skin, weighing 8 to lo pounds. It is
one of the sweetest melons grown, and as it
is only a few days later than some of the
poorer flavored kinds, better wait for it
Next in season, and perhaps better in qual-
ity than Fordhook Early, are Halbert
Honey, Kleckley Sweets, Tom Watson and
a recent introduction called Sugar Stick.
This last is the only light-skinned melon in
the collection. All the rest have a dark
green skin faintly striped with a lighter
green. They range from lo to 20 pounds
each. There are showier melons, but for
quality these few sorts are the ideal kinds to
plant in the home garden.

MUSTARD

Mustard is a short-season crop, used in
connection with other vegetables. It should
be sown in small quantities only, and used
up quickly, as it goes to seed in a short time.
Sow seeds of varieties recommended below
thinly in drills 18 inches to 2 feet apart.
When the seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall,

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

thin them to stand 6 inches apart in the row.
Constant cultivation promotes rapid and
continuous growth. As soon as the plants
are fully grown, use them, as seed stalks
form rapidly and they become unfit for use.
One of the best ways to use mustard is in
connection with endive or spinach, which
vegetables are greatly improved by the
peculiar pungent flavor mustard lends to the
dishes. Varieties especially recommended
for home growing are Fordhook Fancy,
with handsomely curled leaves, Southern
Giant Curled, a variety freely used in the
south, and Elephant Ear, a large sort with
fine fleshy leaves. Make it the rule to sow
mustard frequently, planting little at a time.

OKRA

Few people north of Mason and Dixon's
line are acquainted with this easily
grown vegetable, which forms the basis for
many splendid southern dishes. Okra grows
2 to 5 feet tall, with a spread of 2 to 4 feet,
according to the variety. Sow the seeds

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

toward the end of May in the latitude of
New York, dropping them 4 inches apart in
rows 3 feet apart When the plants begin to
crowd, thin them out to stand 2 to 3 feet
apart in the row, according to the kinds
grown.

The earliest and choicest of Okras is
White Velvet, a variety with many hand-
some, smooth, velvety, white pods. Perkins'
Perfected Long Podded is the tallest of all
kinds, with handsome green pods of excel-
lent quality. Okra has no insect enemies, is
of easy culture and bears freely on all kinds
of soil.

ONIONS

The earliest supply of green onions the
home garden yields is usually produced by
planting onion sets late in the fall previous.
These onion sets, which can be secured in
white, red, and yellow, are really small on-
ions grown from seed the summer before.
Onion sets may be planted in the fall, just
before the ground freezes, and left out in the
garden all winter with but a slight protec-
tion of coarse manure.

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

As early in the spring as the ground be-
comes fit for digging, plant an additional
supply — say 20 feet of row, every other
week up to May i. This should provide
green onions for all purposes up to the time
the onions from seeds become large enough
for use.

Since it is now a recognized fact with
all experienced growers that large onions
may be grown from seed in one season, on-
ion sets are being utilized only to furnish
green onions, also called scullions or seal-
lions in many sections of the country. To
raise large onions from seeds, two methods
may be employed. Early in March, sow
seeds of large varieties, like Prize Taker,
Gigantic Gibraltar or Ailsa Craig, in a hot-
bed in drills 4 inches apart. As soon as the
ground can be put in good condition, trans-
plant these seedlings in rows 4 to 6 inches
apart with 18 to 20 inches between the rows.
Keep the seedlings free of weeds, and culti-
vate thoroughly and often. By August i
you should have fine large bulbs, ranging

81]

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

from one and a half pounds to two pounds
each.

Those who haye no facilities to pursue
this method, may start growing onions by
sowing seeds directly in the open ground in
a well-prepared bed early in April. Sow
the seeds thinly in rows 12 to 18 inches
apart) and when the young seedlings are 3
to 4 inches tall, thin them out to stand 4
inches apart in the row. Give shallow cul-
tivation throughout the season and keep the
row free from weeds. In the fall, when the
tops begin to bend over, which is an indica-
tion of ripening, pull the onions and leave
them in rows exposed to the sun for several
days, so they may dry thoroughly. After
they are dried, trim the necks and store in a
cool room for winter use. They will stand
cold air better than warm air, which is apt
to cause them to sprout and spoil.

The onion is one of the few vegetables
that may be grown on the same piece of
ground for several years without detriment
to quality. It is not always wise to do this,
however, because of the possibility of dam-

:7^}'

UE-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

age by the onion maggot The earliest va*
rieties are the so-called Queen and Barletta
onions, seeds of which are imported from
France. Next to these in season of ripen-
ing come the earliest American varieties, of
which the Southport White Globe and
Southport Yellow Globe are easily the most
beautiful and most productive. The Yel-
low Globe Danvers onion, enjoys great pop-
ularity in many sections of the east, while in
the central west, Southport Red Globe and
Red Wetherfield are the most popular.
These last two are the largest of all Ameri-
can onions. Prize Taker, Gigantic Gibral-
tar and Ailsa Craig are the largest onions in
cultivation today. They are a peculiar
greenish-yellow, distinct from any other va-
riety of American origin.

PARSLEY

Parsley comes in so handy in connection
with such a great variety of dishes, that a
short row should be found in every garden.
The seeds are of rather slow germination.

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

Best results are obtained by soaking them
in warm water 24 hours before sowing.
When the seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall,
thin them out to stand 6 to 8 inches apart in
the row. Even if cut freely, parsley will
come again from the roots. A few roots
dug in the fall and planted in pots will pro-
vide an ample supply during the winter.
The earliest varieties and the best for the
home garden. Moss Curled and Dwarf
Double Curled, combine beauty with util-
ity. Dwarf Perfection is a beautiful, com-
pact-growing sort, ornamental enough to be
utilized as a border plant around flower
beds.

PARSNIPS

A wholesome vegetable grown for its
fleshy roots, which form a delicious dish
when boiled and fried. The seeds are rather
fine and should be sown thinly in drills not
more than % inch deep, with 2 feet between
the rows. Two rows, 15 feet long each, will
furnish an ample supply for the average
family. Transplant the seedlings to stand

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

6 inches apart in the row. The roots are
very hardy and as frost improves their
quality, they may be left in the ground all
winter. Long Smooth or Hollow Crown
is the standard variety for all purposes in
all sections of the country.

PEAS

The garden pea is one of the compara-
tively few vegetables that can be grown
with a fair degree of success on nearly all
soils, and in all sections of the country. It
does best in cool climates anu revels in rich,
moist soil, containing plenty fertility. As
it is a short-season crop, repeated sowings
should be made, and as it takes a long row to
furnish a mess sufficiently large for an aver-
age family, it must of necessity, occupy con-
siderable space during the season. But this
is amply compensated by the rich, luscious
peas one may gather. No peas bought on
the market can compare with those grown in
the home garden, picked at the right mo-
ment and cooked soon after they are gath-
ered.

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

Smooth-seeded peas are sown as early in
the spring as the ground can be put in shape.
The early wrinkled kinds should be sown
about two weeks later, when the soil has be-
come warm. Sow peas in drills, dropping
the seeds about 2 inches apart in the row,
and permitting 2 to 2j^ feet between the
rows for the tall varieties. The dwarf kinds
may be planted as close as 1 8 inches apart.
It is a good scheme to sow them in double
drills with 4 inches between the drills.
These broad rows will then support them-
selves and require no staking. For the tall
kinds, drive a stake at each end of the row,
or if the rows are very long, place the stakes
about 10 feet apart. Then run twine from
the base of the stake and between the stakes,
placing the rows of twine 4 to 6 inches above
each other.

Peas appreciate liberal manuring. Ex-
cellent results are obtained by digging deep
trenches in the bottom of which manure is
placed. On top of this spread a layer of soil
an inch or so thick and sow the seeds and
cover with about 2 inches of good, loose soil.

XJE-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

As the vines push through the soil, fill in the
trench until it is level with the ground, then
supply supports. Splendid crops of all good
varieties may be raised if this method of
planting is employed. Should the green
aphis attack the vines, spray with a weak
solution of kerosene emulsion, or a solution
of whale oil soap. Both will prove effec-
tive.

Two distinct types of peas deserve con-
sideration — the dwarf and the tall kinds.
The dwarf are, perhaps, most suitable for
home garden culture. However, the tall va-
rieties which should always be staked, yield
so much bigger crops, and bear so much
longer, that they, too, deserve the planter's
full attention.

The earliest among the dwarf peas is the
smooth-seeded type, represented by Pedi-
gree Extra Early, Prolific Early Market,
and First and Best. As all these are very
similar in both habit of growth, and char-
acter of pods, only one variety need be
grown. The quality of these smooth-seeded
early kinds is only fair. About five days

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

later, if planted on the same day, the first
of the sweet-flavored sorts will be ready for
use. This is Gradus or Prosperity, a large-
podded kind with very large sweet peas.
Following closely in season come Sutton's
Excelsior, Little Marvel and Thomas Lax-
ton. Experts pronounce the last named
the finest all-around American pea in cul-
tivation today. In most sections of this
country, none of the varieties mentioned
will grow vines taller than 1 8 to 30 inches,
according to variety. Gradus, in cool sec-
tions, will prove ideal in the home garden,
since it will furnish a continuous supply of
sweet luscious peas from the middle of May
until the first week of July, if sowings have
been made not later than the middle of
April. Foremost among the tall varieties
are Alderman and Boston Unrivaled, both
maturing four to five days after the last
picking of the early kinds has been used up.
These varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall, and
should be staked.

Following these midseason varieties,
come the late kinds, the three best of which

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

are British Wonder, Champion of England
and Potlach. Potlach is a decided improve-
ment over the popular Nott's Excelsior.
These late peas are dwarf, making vines 2
to 2^ feet tall. All are very prolific and
mature pods in the order mentioned. After
they mature, the weather usually turns so
hot there is little use to attempt to grow
peas for succession. But along in August
several sowings of early kinds may be made,
which will again provide the table with de-
licious peas just before frost. While the
yields at that season will not compare fa-
vorably with those recorded in the spring,
the quality secured in home-grown peas will
make the extra effort worth while.

PEPPERS

Pepper plants are usually started by sow-
ing seeds in the house or in hotbeds toward
the end of February. The young plants are
potted when they get large enough, in which
shape they are kept under cover until cool
nights are a matter of the past. A dozen

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

plants provide usually an ample supply of
peppers for all purposes. Set them in well-
enriched soil, 2 feet apart each way, and cul-
tivate freely. Hill the stems slightly to re-
sist wind and weather. The best way in
which to secure a succession of peppers is
to pick out suitable varieties which bear at
different seasons.

The earliest of all peppers of good size is
Early Neapolitan, a medium-sized, elon-
gated kind, of sweet flavor. Following Nea-
politan in season comes Ruby King, which
is easily the most popular and most widely
grown sort in all sections of the country.
Bell or Bull Nose follows Ruby King in sea-
son. Chinese Giant is the latest of all, but
the largest of the large-fruited peppers suit-
able for making "mangoes." It is not
recommended to grow Chinese Giant in
sections of the country having a shorter sea-
son than northern Ohio, as its fruit requires
a rather long season to mature.

A few plants of a small hqt variety will
be found useful for flavoring. The most
popular of these is Long Red Cayenne, pods

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

of which become 4 inches long by about 2
inches in diameter. Hottest of all small hot
peppers is Tabasco, the kind used in the
manufacture of Tabasco sauce. Another
good kind belonging to this class is Red
Cluster. Any of the above three will serve
the purpose admirably.

PUMPKINS

Pumpkins were formerly grown in con-
nection with field corn ; since the advent of
modem cultivators this practice is less gen-
eral. As they are of rather spreading
growth and are apt to "mix" with melons,
squashes and other vining plants, they are
rarely grown within the limited area of the
home garden.

When sown with corn the pumpkin seeds
are planted when the corn is thinned out
and hoed for the last time, which is about
the latter part of June. As the corn has usu-
ally made considerable headway before the
pumpkin vines begin to run, these two crops
may be produced on the same piece of

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

ground without any detriment to either.
Pumpkins have practically no insect ene-
mies and are remarkably free from disease.
They fail in hot dry seasons only when the
corn absorbs all the moisture in the soil,
causing a stunted growth of the pumpkin
vines, and injury to the fruit Pumpkins
should be gathered before severe cold
weather sets in. If they are handled care-
fully, they will keep for a considerable
length of time. Among the best varieties
for home use are Small Sugar and Crook-
neck of the early sorts ; Cushaw and Golden
Oblong among the winter varieties.

To grow extra large pumpkins for fairs,
care should be taken to make the soil extra
rich by incorporating plenty of well-rotted
stable or cow manure. Water freely, and
reduce the number of fruits to two to the
vine. Later in the season, remove one, per-
mitting only the larger to develop.

RADISHES

The short season in which they mature if
grown on correct soil and under proper con-

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

ditions makes radishes adaptable to cultiva-
tion between other crops. Space that will
be occupied by crops of later maturity may
be utilized for the production of early -va-
rieties.

As early in the season as the ground is
in fit condition to be worked, seeds of early
spring varieties may be sown in the open
ground in rows 8 to 13 inches apart. It is
very important that radishes be thinned out
to stand the proper distance in the row, so
they may develop properly. The smallest
kinds should be thinned to stand i to 2
inches apart in the row; larger and later
varieties require 3 to 4 inches for proper
development

With proper management, radishes may
be enjoyed from early in the spring until
well into the winter. As the crops of early
spring radishes deteriorate very rapidly, it
is advisable to plant short rows often, rather
than to plant one long row. Make repeated
sowings of the earliest kinds and larger sow-
ings of the summer and winter varieties
which will stand the heat readily.

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

Among the earliest spring radishes, sev-
eral varieties will mature in 20 to 24 days.
Rosy Gem is one of the earliest as well as
one of the most beautiful of this extra early
type. Ne Plus Ultra, Scarlet Globe, Snow
Ball and Hailstone are all extra early round
or turnip-shaped varieties. Among the so-
called olive-shaped sorts, French Breakfast
is easily the handsomest, while Twenty-Day
Forcing is a splendid sort of solid scarlet.
Next in season of maturity are the early
long sorts, of which Wood's Early Frame,
Long Scarlet Short Top, White Icicle and
Cincinnati Market are the best. These ma-
ture in the order mentioned.

As hot weather approaches all these varie-
ties become unfit for use. Beginning in
June, sowings should be made of summer
varieties, which have a firmer texture, and
stand the heat better. The best known red,
long, summer radish is Chartiers, while
Long White Vienna and White Strasburg
are the choicest white sorts of this type.
These mature in July.

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

Two distinct classes of winter radishes are
found in the Chinese and the California
types. California Mammoth Winter and
White Celestial are the largest growing of
the California winter radishes. Round
Black Spanish and Long Black Spanish are
of much firmer texture. They will keep well
until spring if properly stored in sand in
the cellar during the winter. Sowings of
winter radishes should be made in July and
should be treated in the same manner as
turnips.

RHUBARB

Sow seeds thinly in drills about half an
inch deep with i foot between the rows. Be
sure to press the soil firmly over the row to
insure even germination. Keep the row free
of weeds and give frequent cultivation to en-
courage rapid growth of the seedlings.
Early in the spring, before they start to
sprout, take up these seedlings and trans-
plant them to their permanent location, 2
to 3 feet apart each way.

Since rhubarb occupies the same piece of

THE HOME VEGETABLE OAKDEN

ground for yeacs, it pays well to make the
soil very rich, by incorporating plenty of
well-rotted manure. A dozen plants sup-
ply usually an ample amount of stalks for a
small family.

Rhubarb is easily forced by taking up a
large clump late in the fall after all top
growth has disappeared, and the clumps are
frozen. Bring it into the house and place
it in a barrel in the cellar. Soon, long deli-
cate stalks will appear, which will make
delicious sauce and extend the season for this
delicious vegetable late into the winter.

SALSIFY

Often called oyster plant and vegetable
oyster. Seeds should be sown in very shal-
low drills, 15 inches apart, during May, in
fine, loose soil. Transplant seedlings to
stand 4 to 6 inches apart in the row and cul-
tivate freely to insure good size. The roots
of this vegetable are very hardy and can be
left in the ground or stored in the cellar dur-
ing the winter. The best known variety

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

for all sections is Mammoth Sandwich
Island

SPINACH

Spinach is a short-season crop which may
profitably be grown in the same row with
regetables of later maturity, such as carrots
and parsley. It does well only in cool sea-
sons, although some of the newer sorts stand
heat so well they extend the season of these
delicious greens well into the summer.

Sow the seeds thinly in rows 12 to 18
inches apart. While it has been customary
to let spinach grow in a solid row, much
better results are obtained by thinning the
seedlings to stand 6 to 8 inches apart in the
row, thus giving each plant a chance for
perfect development. In this fashion, large
plants are raised, and are not only easier to
clean, but also furnish more and better
leaves.

Plantings made early in the spring are
usually exhausted by end of June, when
Swiss Chard, described under the heading of
beets, will begin to serve the purpose of spin-

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

ach greens. There is little use of planting
spinach during July or August, but by the
end of August sowings may be made for fall
use. Repeated sowings during September
will supply the table with spinach right up
to cold weather.

The best varieties for the home garden are
Victoria, Long Season and Triumph. The
last sort produces fine, crisp plants of rather
flat, spreading growth. New Zealand spin-
ach, although not a member of the spinach
family, may be considered another excellent
substitute for greens during the hot summer
months. This peculiar stranger from the
southern hemisphere develops plants of re-
markable size, some attaining a spread of 6
to 8 feet

SQUASHES

Two distinct types of squash, the summer
and the winter varieties, make this vegetable
useful during a long season. Squashes have
the advantage over pumpkins in having a
number of bush varieties, which, on account
of their compact growth, are adaptable to

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

the small area of the home garden. There
is very little difference in the requirements
and cultivation of pumpkins and squashes,
with the exception that squashes are always
planted as a distinct crop.

Foremost among the bush squashes, rank
the popular White Bush and Yellow Bush,
the former being better known under the
name of Patty Pan. Fordhook, a variety
found in both bush and vining form, is like-
wise highly recommended on account of its
excellent quality. While some of these early
varieties are good keepers, they cannot com-
pare with the winter squashes, which grow
to much larger size and have a very hard
shell. The most important of all winter
squashes in most sections of the country is
Hubbard, and a strain of it called Warted
Hubbard. Another very popular variety in
many sections of the east is Boston Marrow,
A handsome sort of finest quality introduced
in late years is Delicious.

Squashes, like pumpkins, should be stored
before heavy frost makes its appearance. If
they are put away in good condition and

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

properly taken care of, they will keep almost
until the next season's crop is ready.

TOMATOES

Tomatoes are among the most profitable
crops in the home garden. Few other things
yield as handsome returns to the square foot.
With careful management, a constant sup-
ply may be secured from the middle of July
until frost Tomatoes are not particular as
to soil. They thrive to perfection in nearly
all parts of the country. The seeds are usu-
ally sown in a box in the house in February.

When the seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall,
they should be transplanted into other boxes
4 inches apart each way, or they may be set
into individual paper pots. After the trans-
planted seedlings have become well rooted,
they should be kept in a somewhat cooler
temperature, in order to encourage a sturdy,
stocky growth. Any time after the middle
of May, or when all danger of night frost is
past, the plants may be set in the garden,
2j4 to 3 feet apart each way. Where stak-
ing and pruning, as advoqated below, is

•
* »

100

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

practiced, they may be planted as close as 2
feet apart each way, and good results may
be gotten.

As a rule three dozen plants of the right
sorts will furnish an ample supply for a
constant succession from early in the season
until frost. The tomato is a long-season
crop. For this reason the planter should
depend for a successive supply on varieties
maturing at different seasons, rather than to
make subsequent sowings of seeds. In pre-
paring the soil in which plants are to grow,
keep in mind that the danger lies in getting
the ground too rich. This is apt to create
too much foliage growth, to the detriment
of the fruits.

The ideal way of planting tomatoes in the
home garden is to set them to stakes 2 to 2^
feet apart each way, and reduce the number
of branches on each plant to three of the
strongest. These branches should be tied to
the stakes with raffia or rags. When they
reach a height of 4 feet, the tops should be
cut off, to throw all the strength of the plant
into the three branches. This mode of treat-

lOI

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

ment will produce an abundance of hand-
some fruits that will ripen uniformly and be
free of all defects.

Constant succession of fruit from early in
July until frost may be secured by planting
the following varieties: Spark's Earliana,
the earliest of all bright red tomatoes, ma-
turing in some sections as early as the first
week in July, from plants set in the ground
the middle of May. It is closely followed
in season by Chalk's Early Jewel, another
bright red sort of large size and somewhat
milder flavor. When Chalk's is in full bear-
ing, the first of the late kinds, of which Stone
is the main representative, will become fit
for use. By the time Earliana is exhausted.
Chalk's should be in bearing. Chalk's as
well as Stone will bear till frost. Of the
pink or purple sorts, June Pink is the earli-
est It resembles in many respects Earliana,
among the bright red sorts. In Beauty we
have the best main crop and midseason pur-
ple sort for all purposes. It bears during a
long period and the fruits are of uniformly
good size, shape and fine, mild quality. For

1 02

UP-TO-DATE VEGETABLES

those who like rather large-sized fruits, Pon-
derosa will fill all requirements.

Tomatoes hare few insect enemies. Dur-
ing the middle of the season, large green
tomato worms are apt to appear. They
should be carefully picked off and de-
stroyed. Should blight attack the vines, it
may be well to spray with bordeaux. How-
ever, the safest course is to destroy blight-
stricken vines by removing them from the
garden and burning them. In planning the
garden, care should be taken that tomatoes
will not occupy the same piece of ground
two seasons in succession. Disregard of this
precaution is responsible for most of the
blight.

TURNIPS AND RUTABAGAS

Extra early crops of turnips may be se-
cured by sowing seeds of early kinds in the
spring, as soon as the ground can be put in
condition. The main plantings, however,
are usually made at the end of July, with a
view of storing the roots for winter use. Sow
the seeds very thinly half an inch deep in

103

THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

rows 1 8 inches apart Thin out the seedlings
when they are about 4 inches tall, and culti-
vate the rows freely and thoroughly. The
old way of broadcasting turnip seed is not
recommended as practicable for the home
garden, since too many of the roots will not
develop properly.

Rutabagas, or Swedish turnips, are much
later than common turnips, but have flesh
of much firmer texture. They also keep bet-
ter. Besides being grown for home con-
sumption, both turnips and rutabagas fur-
nish excellent stock feed.

Among the earliest varieties of turnips,
Extra-Early White Milan and Extra-Early
Purple-Top Milan are the most popular.
Good main crop varieties of turnips are
Purple-Top Strap-Leaved and Purple-Top
White Globe. Excellent rutabagas are Yel-
low-Fleshed Neckless and Elephant, which
latter reaches a good size. Both turnips and
rutabagas should be stored in frost-proof
cellars or buried in pits, to furnish a supply
during the winter.

104

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