The horseman's guide & farrier : a new and improved system of handling and educating the horse : together with diseases and their treatment

REVISED EDITION.

THE

A NEW AND IMPROVED SYSTEM OF

HANDLING AND EDUCATING THE HORSE

Togetlier -svith Diseases aud their Treatment.

BY YORK & WILLIAMS.

ALSO,~A TREATISE on SHOEING ; EDUCATING CATTLF
and Do^S!, with Hints on Stable Mra}a-en^<:r.t.

EIlADrOiiB. Vr.;

A- A. EAKLK. BOOK AND J^:'I> PKIXJ'

TO PURCHASERS.

Persons buying this work have every riglit of
using, but no rigiit of teacliing, or transferring to
otliers, the book or its contents. By so doing
tliey will lay tliemselves liable to prosecution.

Entered accordinoc to Act of Congi'ess in the year A. I), 1866, by
York &. Williams, in the office of the District Court for tlie;
^*uitvict of Vermont-

Tiie writer of tliis little work, entitled The
HoESEMAN'S Guide and Fakriee, lias made it
liis constant business for a term of years of teacli-
ino- one of the best systems by wliicli to handle
wild and vicious horses that has ever been intro-
duced into the United States or Canadas, and has
been so acknowledged by all that have had the
pleasure of seeing the system practically illustrat-
ed by the introduction of the most vicious horses
the States and Canada could produce ) and hav-
ing a familiar acquaintance vvith the wish of* all
lovers of this noble animal — the horse — to bring
the system before the public in printed form, so
that all who favor him with their patronage may
be benefitted by its perusal.

But in treating upon this subject, we are well
aware of the difficulties under which we labor :
vre are conscious of the fact that we are quite apt
to excite the prejudices of men, who, having ^.an-
aged horses to a considerable extent, and having
ways of their own, with which they are satisfied,
are likely to cry humbug to any jdea, which, to
them is new and strange. We are also a^^are ti-at
t'lere already exists in the minds of many inter; i-
gent persons, a settled opposilion to all profession-

als, wliose business is pretendiug to teacli aud im-
prove the horse; an opposition arising from the
many failures among thatclass,and the consequent
damage done to their animals by being handled by
such men, or under their instructions. We have
no reason to expect that we can obliterate these
X>rejudices at once ; but we have faith to believe
that if we are given a careful hearing, and our ad-
vice put into practice, we shall do much to im-
prove the opinions of the people on the subject of
the ^'education of the Horse." We do not expect
to improve their opinion of ^'Horse Taming," — not
at all. It amounts to but little, only for the time ;
its effects are only momentary. The distinction
between tmning and educating is clear and positive,
and cannot be gainsayed by even the most care-
less observer. We think we can make this per-
fectly clear if you carefully peruse our work, and
practice its teachings. We have devoted our time
for the past ten years to the investigation and
study of the subject, and feel quite confident our
efforts have been of value to the public. We do
not by any means claim to be infallible, but we
speak of this to satisfy the public that ours is no
system picked up in a day, but feel that it is the
restflt of incessant labor for years. We do not
claim all of the ideas we advance to be original
with us, but whether they are, or ideas of others,
neither are recommended without first having been
l>ut thoroughly to the test by actual personal ex-
perience. We advise no i)lan which we have not

successfully tried, and found to be valuable. There
is, to a certain extent, a moral resi)onsibility rest-
ing upon authors of works of this nature, which
is embarrassing in a high degree. The rules which
he sets forth are sometimes deviated from without
the knowledge of the operator himself, either from
his not clearly understanding the meaning, or from
his having too carelessly listened to the instruc-
tions received, or perhaps too loosely scanned the
printed, and the desired result is not reached. In
a measure, this leads to a distrust of the system.
Occasionally circumstances may arise in the hand-
ling of the horse, which no foresight could have
provided against, and if the operator does not find
in the instructions given, a remedy for his diffi-
culty, he lays it aside in disgust. Nevertheless we
submit our work, confident of being able to*)e of
great public service. In the forepart of our vol-
ume, we shall almost exclusively treat upon the
education of the colt, and the treatment of his
habits, after which we shall speak of a subject
which, in almost all its aspects, needs to be treated
from quite a different stand-point. The colt is im-
pelled to his awkwardness and bad habits by nat-
ural impulses of timidity and consequent fear ;
while the mature horse is actuated more by a
strong self-will, his habits beifig formed through
mismanagement of his first instruction. There-
fore the rules which apply to the education and
treatment of colts are not, in all instances the rules
necessary to be observed in the education and

reatment ox iie Horse, rfucn governing rules
however, as being liouest with the animal, exer-
cising kindness, forbearance, firmness, and perse-
verance, apply in both cases. Kow, dear reader,
with these introductory remarks, we shall com-
mence our volume, introducing the points in al-
phabetical order, endeavoring to so fully explain
that none need go astray.

THE

HORSEMAN'S GUIDE

AND FARRIER.

History of the Cclebrat«<l Hoi'.*€« Trained
aud £3xliil>itcd by York <& \%'illia.ius.

MORGAN TIGEE.

This famous liorse was bred by Lafayette Kuapp,
Middlesex, Yt; is a beautiful hajj with bla^k
mane and tail, one hind foot white ; weighs 1050
I)ounds; is eight years old, and in style ami ac-
tion is unsurpassed.

He was sired by the *^ Old Flying Morgan," and
in speed and endurance is fully his equal in his
best days.

His dam was a full blooded ''Justin Morgan."

Previous to our purchasing this horse, he had
been under training by the "Rockwell System,"
which failing, left him more vicious and unman-
ageable than before, (he was a sullen, bolting,
plunging, runaway horse, and had become i^v-

8

fectly unmanageable by Mr. Lamsou, of wliom we
purchased liim.) In ten days after applying our
system, he became perfectly tractable, and was
successfully exhibited in Wentworth, N. H., as a
''Trick Horse," and driven through the streets
wltliout reins, by Professor Williams. He has been
on constant exhibition for a little more than two
years, and is judged to be the Most Thoroughlt
Trained Horse in America.

ALARM.

This celebrated colt was raised in North Easton,
Washington Co., E". Y.^ by Jona. Buell and came
into our hands unhandled, in the spring of 1865,,
and although but three years old, he exhibited an
alarming temper, biting, striking, and jumping at
any one who chanced to come within his reach.

After having been under our training two
weeks, he was harnessed to wagon for the first
time in his life} and driven without reins through
the streets of Cambridge, N. Y., by Prof. York, to
the astonishment of all who knew his history.

He was sired by "Kimrod Morgan." Dam, an
English mare. He stands fifteen and three-quar-
ter hands high, weighs 1125 pounds; hi^ color is
a beautiful dark brown.

He is a very stylish driver, and has been exhib-
ited constantly since his training.

GEN'L ^lAC.

This horse was raised by Wm. D. Huntley, at
Mexico, Oswego Co., N. Y., and is eight years old.

9

Tkis horse exhibits the most perfect character-
istics of a full blooded Morgan horse we have ever
seen ; is a blood bay, black mane and tail. His
mane is very heavy and fine, measuring thrc4i fe^t
and six indies in length.

This was a very icicJced^ runaway horse, and per-
fectly ungovernable in harness. He is now under
training, to be driven double, with "Morgan Tiger,'?
without reins, and is making rajnd progress. After
one week training he made a graeeful appearance
in the streets of Bradford, Vt, driven by Prof.
Williams, without reins, amid the cheers of the
throng who had gathered to witness t^e feat.

Gen. Mac and Morgan Tiger, (driven together
without reins,) for beauty, agility and perfect obe-
dience to the requirements of their driver, when
on exhibition, passing through crowded streets,
avoiding vehicles and obstacles of every kind,
stand unrivalled by any effort of the kind on rec-
ord.

YOUNG COLUiyiBUS.

This fine mettled horse is 9 years old, stands 16
hands high, is of a dark chestnut color, and weighs
1140 pounds. We purchased him of Benj. Cum-
mings, North Brookfleld, Mass. He is now under
process of training, and is fast losing the careless
habits inherited from his sire, "Old Columbus,"
who was a terror to his keepers. His Dam,
Woodbury Morgan. For beauty and style he is
unsurpassed.

10

ly 'Ou the 3ci of Ai^ril, 1S63, we commenced
training a wild and nervous Black Hawk horse
for Messrs. Williams & Wilder, who were at that
time receiving instructions from us, preparatory
to giving instructions themselves. In about six
days we -delivered them the horse, and on the fol-
lo'Adng wexik they gave a successful exhibition at
Whitingham, Vt They continued to give suc-
cessful i)erformances for some months, when,
through entire caielessness on the part of the
driver, the horse was severely injured by the
bi'eaking of a vehicle, and has not since been ex-
hibited. We are informed that each of these gen-
tlemen ha\« a horse which they are driving with-
out reins, broke according to our directions.''

We are surprised to see the above fabrication
l)ublished by Messrs. Eockwell & Hurlbut. Any
man who gives his time and energy to the self-
vsacrificing business of teaching rational hoi'se-
manship, should be a man entitled to the rCvSpect
of an intelligent people j but when from jea^wsy,
or malice, they become thus reckless of truth and
honor, they relinquish their manhood, and become
objects of mere disgust and detestation.

We say "God speed" to every man who is la-
boring to increase the usefulness and value of that
noble animal — the Horse.

But, to the facts : We had been teaching Horse-
inanship for several years, successfully, previous-
ly to the 3d day of April, 1863, and prcAious to
our ever having seen Mr. Eockwell, or to his ever

11

liaviiig adopted tlie profession of horsemanship.
The horse, Bhock Hawk Tiger, was neither trained
or ever driven, nor even sesn by Mr. Rockwell,
either then, previous or subsequent to that time,
to our knowledge ; but was trained by Prof. Wil-
liams, and is still owned hj him, and is the same
proud spirited animal, (and driven without reins
at the pleasure of the Professor,) whose reputa-
tion excited Mr. Eockwell to issue the above base
fabrication.

The "injury^' si>oken of was occasioned by the
breaking of the shafts of the wagon in which he
was being driven, in making a short turn, thus
freeing himself from the wagon, and for a mo-
ment losing sight of his driver; but upon the sig-
nal he immediately returned, with the the splin-
tered shafts dangling about his legs, and in doing
so he got a splinter in his foot, and for three
weeks was not exhibited ; but after that was ex-
hibited daily until our famous horse, MoEOAN
TiaEE, was i^ut ui^on exhibition.

Cxenera.! Remarks.

According to the known history of the horse,
he has been the friend and servant of man for
nearly four thousand years. All classes of people,
from the highest rulers and warriors, down to the
lowest peasants on earth, have shared their friend- .
ship and utility. The horse has also had its ad-
mirers and Mends among all classes of men;
even the i)oor Arab treats him as one of his own

12

family by lodgiug him in the tent with his wife
and children. And yet his education is only in
its infancy.

His value has been so estimated from his first
subjugation to the present, that a portion, at least
of all civilized nations, as well as the Indian who
catches him wild, have participated in the pleas-
ure and profits of the horse. And his value at
the present time depends, to a great extent, on the
knowledge and skill we possess in using him ; for
when we call out the finer feelings of his nature
by kind treatment, we are delighted and comfort-
ed in the manner and willingness in which he ren
ders his services for our benefit j while to those
who know no other way of governing him than by
brute force, he often becomes fretful and vicious,
and even a dangerous servant; consequently, we
see that his real value to us rises or falls, acxiord-
ing to our ability and manner of governing him.

He has been imported and transported from na-
tion to nation; he is used to do our hardest
drudgery, as well as to pride himself in honoring
kings ; he is used to convey us to places of amuse-
ment and worship ; in fact, there is no vocation in
which man is engaged that the horse is not made
useful to further his purpose. And in all places,
and among all classes, we find his value corres-
l^onding with the state of society where he is em-
ployed. And here is another idea about the horse
which is worth its weight in gold, viz.: his cultiva-
tion and improvement have a tendency to promote

13

good society. For man, while cultivating the lin-
er feelings of his nature, (as he must, in order to
control the horse properly), arrives to that degree
of refinement in his mind which is so necessary
for a member of good society to i)ossess. I have
known men to buy a pair of horses, paying from
three to four hundred dollars for them, which was
considered by many, an enormous price. The pur-
chaser, after keeping them a few months, vrould
sell them again for double the i)rice he paid, to
the astonishment of those who considered the first
price extravagant. This may be attributable to
the dealer's knowledge of the market, and
his skill in training and improving their condition
while they remained in his hands. So we see, too,
that the stud}^ of the horse is calculated to elevate
the mind of men, as well as to replenish his purse.

How often do we see young men whose almost
first act in life is to buy a horse, and sometimes,
before they are able to pay the purchase money,
and even part with the last cow, and every other
valuable before they will i)art with their horse.
This shows the great attachment man has for the
horse, which can be traced back through history
to the ancient nobleman, as well as the wild Arab.
This will be made more apparent hereafter.

Among all the studs* kept by the ancient no-
blemen, you will find that there was scarcely ever
one found which was not kind and submissive to
his master; the reason of this was because their

' A collf^(?tion of horses.

14

mode of governing tliem was invaruibly that ot
kind treatment. Tlie passion of love, in all ani-
mals, when cultivated and fully developed, is even
stronger than that of fear.

When the Aral) falls from his mare (observes
Smith om breeding), and is unable to rise, she will
stop and ueigh until assistance arrives; if he lies
down to sleep, as fatigue sometimes compels him
in the midst of the desert, she stands watchful
over him, and neighs and arouses him if either
man or beast approaches.

Allow me to give place to the following anec-
dotes (which are well authenticated), partly to
show the love and great attaclimcnt of the Arab
(as well as others) for the horse, as well as that of
the horse for his master :

An old Arab had a valuable mare that had car-
ried him for fifteen years in many a hard fouglit
battle, and in many a rapid, weary march. Al-
though eighty j'ears old, and unable longer to ride
her, he gave her and a scimeter that had been his
fathers, to his eldest son, and told him to appre-
ciate their value, anli never lie down to rest until
he had nibbed them both as bright as a looking-
glass. In the first skirmish that the young man.
was engaged in, he was killed, and the mare fell
into the hands of the enemy. When the news
reached the old man, he exclaimed, /'Life is no
longer worth possessing, for I have lost both my
son and mare, and I grieve as much for one as the
other." and he immediatelv sickened and died.

15

The foliowiiig comes home to the bosom of ev-
ery one possessed of common feeling : The whole
stock of an Aral) of the desert consisted of a mare.
The I"'rench Consul offered to purchase her in or-
der to send her to his sovereign, Louis XIV. The
Aralj would have rejected the proposal at once,
with indignalion and scorn, but he was miserably
poor. He had no means of supplying his most
urgent wants, or procuring the barest necessaries
of lire. Still, he hesitated ; he had scarcely a rag
to cover him, and his wife and children were stiirv-
iug; the sum oifered was great, it would provide
him and his family with food for life. At length,
and reluctantly, he consentod to the separation.
He brought the mare to the dwelling of the Con-
sul ; he dismounted, and stood leaning ujion her
he looked, now at the gold, and then at his favor
ite ; he sighed, he wept. "To whom is it," said
he, "I am going to yield thee up ? To Europeans,
who v> ill tie thee close — who will beat thee — who
will render theo miserable ! Eeturn with me, my
beauty: my jewel ; God preserve thee, my belov-
ed, and rejoice the hearts of my children :" and.
then sprang ui)on her back, and was out of sight
in a moment. Ah, jockey, think of this ; did you
ever x>art with a favorite that caused your wife
and children to weep ?

Sir Jolm Malcom, in his sketches on Persia,
gives several anecdotes, but of a more amusing
character, one of which we will notice here:
"When the eneniV, returning: from his former mis-

. 16

sion, was eucami)ed near Bagdad, an old Arab
rode a bright bay mare, of extraordinary shape
and beauty, before his tent until he attracted his
attention. On being asked if he would sell her,
'What wall you give me V was the reply ,* 'That de-
pends upon her age j I suppose she is past five V
'Guess again,' said he. *Fourf Look at her
mouth,' said the Arab with a smile. On examina-
tion she was found to be rising three. This, from
her size and symmetry, greatly enhanced her val-
ue. The envoy said, 'I will give you fifty tomans,
(a coin nearly equal in value to a pound sterling).
'A little more, if you please,' said the fellow, ap-
parently entertained. 'Eighty,' 'a hundred.' He
shook his head, and smiled. The offer at last came
to two hundred tomans. <Well,' said the Arab,
'you need not tempt me further; it is of no use.
You are a rich elchee ; you have fine horses, cam-
els and mules, and I am told you have loads of
silver and gold. Now,' added he, 'you want my
mare, but you shall not have her for all you have
got.' "

The foregoing is a very humane system of treat-
ing the horse, and one that is attended with the
best success in subjugating all horses for domes-
tic purposes; and yet there is another method by
which they may be trained and subjugated, that
uo less shows the superiority of man, than the
willingness of the horse to obey him, when his
wishes are made known to him ; without medica-
tion. Tijo doii)osticated horse seldom needs anv-

tlimg more tliau kind toatment at our hands to
render liim obedient to our commands, after he has
learned what we desire of him, for his instinct leads
him to love and obey man, although the horso^
not unlike other animals in this respect, is posses-
sed of a kind of wild fear of man (in a natiu'al
«tate), that must be overcome before we can suc-
<?essfully proceed to learn him anj'thing else. This
the Mexicans, as well as the Indians, accomplisli
in their way with the lasso, in catching them wild
by decoying and riding up to a herd of them, and
throwing it over the head of one (around the neck
of the animal), and then follow him in the chase
until he is choked down. After this he is not hurt
but caressed and talked to, when he is hampered
and led to camj) without further trouble, where he
iioon leams to love and obey his master.

]N'ow, we do not expect to be fortunate enough
to make ourselves renowned in relating our expe-
rience or observation of the horse in this respect;
but we trust mainly on the merits of this subject
to become useful to those who feel an interest iu
this important topic. Firstly, the horse is gov-
erned, and receives his instruction through the
live senses, viz.: seeing, tasting, hearing, smelling
and feeling ; the one of seeing seems to rather
predominate. But the most of these are more
acute than even man's, for they partially supply
the i)lacc of reason in the animal. Secondly, lie
is governed (like all other animals) by his instiin-t,
v>']>ich is combined in the live senses: and one oi

18

the qualities of liis instinct is to fear the approacli
of man, wliom lie looks ii\)Oii as his superior. This
1« more especially the case when he is in a wild
state; but when this wild feay is changed to love
by kind treatment, it is increased an hundred fokL
Another of these is to love and obey man when
domesticated and educated, hj which he general-
ly does unless his animal proi^ensities are aroused
by ill-treatiaent j for it is an undisputed principle
in the nature of this animal not to offer resistance
to our mshes when ma^de known t« him in a man-
ner that he can understand us ; and, of course it
Mlows that this must be done in accordance with
the laws of his nature,

Man is not only i)laced at one end of this great
chain, but he forms the hook that hangs it up on
the throne of Jehovah, and the swivel and pivot
also u])on which the whole turns j and it extends
from thence to the — jes, beyond the surface, to
the very centre of the earth, and the bottomless
deep ; and, notmthstanelingits crooks and nooks.,
and all its mysterious windings, there is a current
of electric life running through the whole length
thereof, that proceeds from the great battery from;
wliich all knowledge and instinct iiows. Man
stands at the head of all created beings, for all
^\ ill tremble and crouch with fear at his approach,
c xcei)t when attacked in a warlike manner, or
\ hen there is no chance to ifee. Tlien if man is
}tl<ieed at the head of all these, it shows the im-
(>.ovtance of his studying his own nature, and if

19

he arrives at tlie liigliest state of liis moral cul-
ture, to wliicli he is attainable, all the better, so
as not to abuse the power invested in him, and en-
able him to tiu'n all these things to the best and
most profitable account. What, then* has man to
fear from the brute creation when he becomes ac-
quainted with his ability to govern and control
them all, and when he sees the most ferocious
beasts flee at his approach ? As we stated above,
the domesticated horse loves man, and we very^
much doubt whether there is another creature on
earth that is so universally beloved by man as the
horse. They look ui)on him as their friend, and
when in trouble will run to him for help and pro-
tection. As an evidence of this fact, we need only
relate one circumstance that we w itnessed with
our friend and neighbor in Mich. He had a mare
that owned a colt about a week old, running in a
held wherein was an old Avell fourteen feet deep,
which had been covered with plank, which, bj^
some means had got off, so that the colt fell
mto the well. This happened about the
break of day, and before we had got out of bed
we heard the noise and clatter of a horse's hoofs,
which awoke us. This vras followed by a loud
neigh of a horse at our door. We scrambled out
of bed, and went to the door just in time to sec
the old mare returning towards the well that was
some fort}^ rods distant. Seeing her look down
into the well, and tlien start for the house again,
we anticipated the trouble she was in. We sum-

20

moned lielp, and started for the well j but not
without being met several times by the old maro
(who seemed to be almost fi'antic), as if to huiTy
us on to the i)lace of disaster. When we arrived,
the colt was splashing in the water at the bottom.
AVe immediately got him out with the help of ropes
that we took along with us, when they both fol-
lowed us back to the house j and whenever we
stopped, the mare w^ould stand by us, and even
lick our hands, as well as the colt, in thankfulness
for the assistance we had rendered her in rescuing
her colt.

But to return more direct to the subject in ques-
tion, I will- proceed to show w^hat man should be
to accomplish his purpose with the horse, and then
by what means he can do it. The timidity of
many persons only prevents their becoming suc-
cessful horse trainers, fully equal to the great
Damptius of the i^resent day. It requires almost
a reckless courage, a patience that never tires, and
a temper that nothing can ruffle. With these re-
quisites, any one may enter the pleasing labor of
subjugating and educating the horse, with almost
a certainty of success. All men are not endowed
with this gift ; though any one of common ability
who studies the horse minutely, will soon learn
by his quick perception and judgment, to govern
the horse, notwithstanding the great difference of
organization and temperament that belongs to
this animal, which does not always consist in a
iiiiifonn plan of operating with all, but must be

21

varied according to their individual capacities,
after subduing tlieir wild fear.

This is a study, which, if pursued systematical-
ly, will be one of the most ennobling*, as well as
profitable branches of the industry of breeders
and the farmer's occupation, for it will enhance
their horse's value at least one-half (in some cases),
by rendering them more docile and safe to guide
and handle. In a word, the man should be in ev-
ery respect of good disposition, and the law of
kindness should be fixed in his mind as the key-
stone of all successful theories of treatment to-
wards the horse, and we should look for help only
where help is to be found.

The First Step to l>e Taken \ritli a Colt.

Go to the pasture and walk around the whole
herd quietly, and at such a distance as not to cause
them to scare and run ; then drive them very slow-
ly, and if they stick up their heads and run, wait
until they become quiet, so as not to frighten them ;
then quietly pass around them again, and gently
drive them in the direction you want to go. Do
not flourish your arms, or halloo, but quietly follow
them, leaving the direction free for them that you
wish them to take; thus, taking advantage of
their ignorance, you will be able to get them into
the barn-yard very easily. If colts have always
run in the pasture uncared for, as many do, there
is no reason why they should not be as wild as the
deer, and require the same gentle treatment. If

22

you want to get them without trouble — ^for the
horse in his natural state is as wild as any of the
undomesticated animals, though more easily tam-
ed— the next step will be to drive them from the
yard into the barn, not into the stable, but on to
the barn floor. This should be done as quickly as
possible, so as not to excite any suspicion. The
best way to do this is to lead a gentle horse into
the barn first, and hitch him ,• then quickly walk
round the colt, or colts, as may be, and gently
flrive them in the direction of the door ,* seeing
the horse in the barn, they go in without further
trouble. The next step is to remove the quiet horse
and shut the door. This is the coitus first idea of
confinement, hardly knowing'^how he got into such
a place, nor how to get out of it ; so he must take
it as quietly as possible. See that everything is
so arranged that he cannot jump over, or crawl
under ; also, a clean floor.

Everything is now properly arrangd for the colt
to receive his first lesson. And how is it to be
accomplished? Some individual, unacquainted
with a correct system of handling wild and vicious
horses, would say the plan we adopt by which to
lialter and lead quietly wild horses, would so
frighten them it would i)rove a failure. But quite
the reverse. Prepare yourselt with a good spring-
top whip, with long switch. Step into the barn ;
close the door; all is now safe. You are alone
with the colt, nothing to attract his attention but
yourself. Stand quietly for a few moments, and

23

lie will ej e you closely ; tlieu take your whip in
right hand 5 give it a sharp crack; at the same
time approach the colt^ so the distance from him
is the length of the whip, and give him some sharp
•cuts around the hind legs, and under the flank ;
never ^tiike him forward of his quarters. After
;aj)plyin^ your whip in. such n manner for about
one minute, then take your whip in your left hand,
at the same time hold out your right, and gently
approach him, saying. "Ho! boy;" but in ai>-
proaching him, if he turns and runs from you,
again ax)ply your whip shari^ly ; then again ap-
proach him saying, ^^ Ho ! boy." In operating iu
that manner for aboat &ve minaites he dare not
turn his quarters, but will staaa*d and face you, and
you can lay your hand upon his neck, pat and ca-
ress him. In doing so you gain his confidence
and when he follows you he comes for protection,
but when he turns to leave you he is sure he will
get punished. By using the whip in that manner
for twenty minutes, he will follow you around the
barn the same as a pet dog, keeping his head close
by your side.

This exercise was fully illustrated by Mr. Jona-
than Smith, of Virginia, which m thus described
by S. W. Cole : A vicious mare was given him to
tame, which it was said he could not manage un-
less he dealt with the devil, for she was a wild,
skittish young thing, high tempered, and dispos-
ed to kick and bite. He ordered her into a barn,
and tlien entered a»d fastened the door. Before

24:

slie had time to Burvey liim, he was giving her the
lash smartly. Around she went, kicking and
jumping; no rest was given ; the sweat flowed j.
and she slackened in her movements. When she
approached him he slackened his whip, held out
his hand, and said, '^Come along;" again she was
oft*, and the lash applied. This was repeated sev-
eral times before she would advance, and when
she moved toward him he approached and patted
her; and as he moved away and said, "Come
alon g," she followed. In a moment she darted off ^
he api)lied the lash smartly ;. she stopped, trem-
bled, and ai)proach.ed him. He patted her neck,,
and said, "Come along," and she followed him sev-
era! times around the barn ; when she lagged, he
was away, and the whip applied. After that, she
would not remain two feet from him. He ordered
the door to be opened, and the mare followed close
to him through the crowd, and back to the stable.
This shows and proves clearly, the first step, and
only correct way of forming an a€quaintance with
wild and vicious horses.

Ho^v to Halter-Break a €6It»

Your colt is now brought up by the use of the
whip, and follows close by your side. The next
step is to teach him to lead with a halter; this can
be accomi)lished in ten minutes by the use of a
cord.

Procure a cord about fifteen feet in length, and
one half inch in diameter, made of cotton or hemp,

or.

cotton is preferable. Make a knot fast at one ei#d;
at tlie other make a loop of 3iiffieient size to slip
your liand tlirougli. Your cord is now ready.
Take the end that lias the single knot, place it
aronnd the horse's neck, jnst back of the head, and
get the exact size ; tie a loop, then place it aronnd
the neck, and make it fast — in the same manner
yon wonld tie a cord aronnd yonr cattle's horns to
make them fast in the stable. After which take
hold of yonr cord one foot beloAv yoiu' horse's
neck, i)ass it throngh between the neck and cord
that is fastened aronnd his neck ; bring it forward
and loop it into his month ; now take yonr hand
into the loop at the other end of the cord, and
yon can control him as yon please. Step back
from yonr horse ; do not get forward or back of
him, hnt stand to one side, abont opposite to the
shoulder; at the same time give him a sudden,
convulsive pull, and then let your cord hang loose.
If he should prance and jump to the opposite side
of you, give him another pull the same as before.
Do not pull your cord, thinking to drag him after
you by steady pulling, but give him a few convul-
si\^e i)ulls, after which let your cord slacken ; and
by exercising him in that manner for ten or fifteen
minutes, he will very i^romptly step up by your
side, no matter in what direction you may turn.
Remove your cord, buckle on your halter, and you
can lead him quietly just where you like.

26

!Ii telling' tSie Colt in .^tall tlic Fir««t Time.

After lialter-breakmg your colt, it is then neces-
sary to give liim a rest before working him far-
ther, and to hitch him in the stall for the first
time, observe the foUoAving rule : Examine your
stable very closely, in order to ascertain that there
are no loose or broken x)lanli: in the floor, also see
that the rack, manger, and lining of the stall is
sound and all right. All is now in readiness ; lead
him quietly up to the stall. If he shows any sign
of fear, let him stop for a few moments, talk gen-
tly ; also pat him on the neck. By so doing, you
will dispel his fears, and he will quietly pass into
the stall. ^Now for the plan of hitching him: If
you should hitch him with the tie-strap, as is gen-
erally practiced, some little noise on the scaffold,
above (such as scratching of hens, or the like),
would cause him to scare, pull, break loose, and
soon he is a confirmed halter-puller. The plan we
adopt for hitching the colt the first time is simple
and effectual. Procure a piece of rein webbing
fifteen feet in length, or a strap one and a fourth
inch wide, of same length. Get the centre of said
web or strap ; now buckle a common web surcin-
gle around his body, just back of the shoulder,
then lay your webbing across his hips, carry one
end forward between the surcingle and body on
the left side, the opposite end between the surcin-
gle and body on the off side of the colt, the centre
rests across his hips, the ends carried forward ;
now take the centre of tlie webbing in your right

hand, give it one turn over ; that leaves it cross-
ed upon his hips ; now carry the centre back, and
pass his tail through the loop that you made by
turning the centre of the webbing over — the same
as crupping with harness ; step forward, reach
your left hand through under the colt's neck j and
tie them snug around the chest ; next, carry the
end of your tie strax^ through the hole or ring in
manger J bring back, and make fast to the web-
bing that passes around the chest. Your colt is
now made fast in the stall by the use of the web-
bing attached to his tail ; you need have no fears
of his breaking the halter or injuring himself.
Place Mm in that position a few times, and there
is no danger of his ever breaking a common hal-
ter. If you should at any time use a rope in i^lace
of webbing, wind the crupper i:>art with a i:)iece of
soft cloth ; otherwise you would injure his tail.
This plan Avill break the worst of halter pullers.

IlaucHin^ tlie Colt's Feet.

We consider it the duty of every one that rais-
es a colt to prepare it for the smith before he takes
it to the shop to get it shod, for many valuable
colts have been made almost worthless througli
this neglect. There are few horses that may not
be gradually rendered manageable for this pur-
pose. By mildness and firmness they will soon
learn that no harm is meant, and they will not for-
get their usual habit of obedience ; but if the re-
membrance of corporal punishment is connected

28

with shoeing they will be more or less fidgity, and
sometimes very dangerous. We wish that it was
a law in every smith-shop that no man should be
permitted to strike a horse, much less to twitch
or gag him without the owner's consent, and that
a young horse should never be struck or twitched.
The x)lan that we adopt to handle the feet is very
simple, and not less effectual. By adopting this
plan, your colt can, in a few moments, be taught
to stand perfectly still to be shod : as soon as you
get your colt thoroughly broken to the halter, get
a strap, or a piece of webbing, eighteen feet in
length ; now tie one end of the straj) or webbing
around the colt's neck, just where the collar
comes ; work it well back to the shoidder ; you
are now standing at the left side of the colt, do
not be in a hurry, work handy, and carefully, be
very uniform in your words and acts; now take
tlie other end of your strap, gently pass it back
between the forward legs, bring it through to the
left side ; now lay it over his back, with your right
hand under his chest, you can draw it through
again to the left side ; now place the end up into
the loop around the neck — you will now find
your strap crossed just back of the left fore-arm
— gently raise the left foot, and lay it into the
strap that comes between the legs — the outside
strap is wound around the ankle; now take the
end that is passed through the loop around the
neck in your right hand, your left holding the
colt by the head ; you will see that vou have the

29

foot secure, with no possible chimce to injure him-
self in the least, as the whole strain comes over
the back, and around the neck ; l^t the colt stand
until he attempts to free the foot, but if you hold
him firm he will soon find it useless, and give up,
and yield his foot to you ; the moment that he
yields, and not till then, relieve him. You have
now fully convinced him that you are not going to
hiut him, and that he cannot get his foot from
you, you will have no more trouble with that foot.
Xow try the right foot in the same manner ; han-
dle each one thoroughly j remember that it is just
as necessary to handle the forefeet as the hind
ones, for a horse that is vicious to shoe forward
is more dangerous than one that is bad behind.
Now handle the hind feet. Have the strap
around the neck, and between the fore legs, as be-
fore, and cany it back through the hind legs,
around the near hind leg beloAv the fetlock, and
bring forw ard thi'ough the loo^) around the neck ;
take the colt by the head with your left hand, and
the strap in your right, pull back on the strap,
which will cause the foot toJbe drawn forward ; this
the colt AA^ill resist by kicking, but diaw tightly on
the strap, and hold him firmly by the head, he will
soon find resistance useless, and will let you han-
dle it a.s you wish. Now step to the right side of
your colt, and proceed as on the left -, remember
that you must be firm, yet kind, and ever willing
to submit to him when he does to you, but never
let him know his strength compared with yom' own,

30

and never let him know that he is the strongest.
By faithfully pursuing this plan as explained and
demonstrated before the class, I am confident that
you will meet with the most favorable results.
Remember that you must be particular and perse-
vering?.

To Ride a. Colt.

You have gained the confidence of your colt, by
the use of your whip, now be very careful that yon
do not betraj^ it, for if very wild he will be veiy
suspicious, and watch every move, therefore it is
very important that you are uniform in all yoiu:
acts and words. The old fashion plan of riding
the colt, we think, veiy wrong. A¥e well remem-
ber of attempting to ride a colt under the direc-
tions of an old experienced horseman. We were
placed upon the colt's back while he was rearing
and plunging, and the next moment found ourself
standing on our head in the snow, some three rods
from the colt, and after maldng several useless at-
tempts to mount him, gave it up as a bad job,
Avhile, by adopting our present plan, in a few mo-
ments the colt could have been ridden with j^erfect
safety, just where we wish to go, and if tliis plan
is faithfully pursued we are sure that any colt can
be mounted, and rode, in a few moments, without
incurring the risk of being pitched ui>on yoiu'
head, and learning your colt a habit that will be
dangerous, as well as very uni^leasant. AYe say
this with gi'eat confidence, for during nine years

31

experience with the wildest colts that could be pro-
duced it has never failed in a single case. Before
you attemx)t to mount a colt it is very important
that you teach him the word ^c^^oa^ which we claHii
to be the most imi)ortant word in horsemanship,
and if you T\ish your horse to learn and obey a
word, you must first learn him the meaning of that
word, and then only make use of it when you want
lum to stop. IS^ever use the word kIioci to call your
horse's attention in the stable, as many j)ersons do,
such as, ^'wJioa, get over ; whoa, hael'; ichoa, come
here,'^ etc., until the horse gets completely confused
with the word, and cannot comprehend yoiu* mean-
ing. Hence the necessity of being uniform in word
and act. In fact, if you wish yoiu" horse to under-
stand and obey you, you must always be honest
^vith him — never tell him what you do not mean —
never deceive him under any circumstances, but
gain his confidence, and never betray it. We would
just as soon think of betraying the confidence of
our brother man as the horse we were training. In
teaching your horse the word ivkoa take a strap,
six or eight feet in length, lay it across his back to
the right side, fasten to the ankle of the right foot,
holding the strap in your right hand, the left on
the halter or bridle ; now lead the colt a few steps
and say whoa^ at the same time pull on the strap,
•which will throw him on three legs, and suddenly
bring him to a stop, and in a vers' short time teach
him that the word wlioa means to stop. After ed-
ucating your colt thoroughly in this manner, then

32

attempt to mount him by placing yoiu' knee to his
side, just baek of the fonvard forearm, and draw
yourself gradually to his back 5 if he should at-
tempt to move, pull on the strap, using the Avord
ichoa^ and he will soon think more of his foot than
of you, for he cannot think of both at the same
time, as it is impossible for a horse to thuik of two
things at once. You must now be very carefiil ; do
not try to work fast, and do not be in a hurry, for
you will frighten him with your quick, hasty
moves. If you will work slowly for five minute?,
you will be on his back, and he ^Yill show no dit-
ix^sition to dismount you. We feel confident in
your success, for we have never failed in mounting
the worst that could be brought in half that time,
move slow and careful until you get your right leg
over his back, and in the same gentle manner get
into an ui)right i^osition. You now have your bii-
dle reins in your left hand, the strap in yoiu? right,
which is attached to the foot, and if he attempts to
make a wrong move the word whoa, and a pull at
the strap, ^411 make all right. Bear in mind, how-
ever, that there is a great difference in the temper
and intelligence of colts, some being quick to learn,
while others are very stupid. Remember that the
more dull and stupid the subject, the jroyq need of
patience and i)erseverence, always bearing in mind
that you are a man, and are dealing with a dumb
brute — that if you are not capable of controlling
yourself, you certainly are not capable of control-
ing a poor dumb brute. Your colt will now allow

33

.YOii to mount and dismount at pleasure. You can
not expect him to be liandy to tlie rein mitil after
he is properly bitted, which is the next step with
the colt.

Bitting tlieColt.

Wheii we speak of bitting the colt, we do not
expect the first lesson to give him a lofty, easy,
graceful carriage of the head, it requires some few
days diiving to so develop the muscles of the neck
to carry it easy and graceful without tiring him.
The first lesson in bitting is to educate him to
come to the rein quick and handy, that is readily
accomplished by the use of what is denominated
a Mexican tie, which is simply a cotton or hemp
€ord.

(Mr. Tidball, tlie originator of this, used a hair
■eord) but ive finding that too severe for a colt with
€1 very sensitive mouth concluded the cotton or
hemp better, cotton is preferable, ^ovr dear
reader let me say to you that this cord if properly
used is very valuable, if not used judiciouvsly it is
dangerous and would have a bad effect. It is one
of the most powerful instruments for controlling
the mouth ever made public. Kow then for its
practical use. Procure a half inch cotton cord
about fifteen feet in leng-tli, tie a knot in each end,
pass the Ciid through twi<3e, so the knot will not
slip (a single tie is apt to slip out) in one end make
a loop about four inches in diameter, or one that
you can pass your hand through easy. This looj*

34

sliould be tied with a sailor's bow-line knot, whicls
is made thus : Hold both hands well out from
you ; take one end of the cord in your right hand
between the thumb and forefinger, the end from
yoi» and the main rope extending toward you in
the palm of the hand and lying across the little
finger, the palm being up, hold out your left hand
with the palm up ; lay the rope across? the fore-
finger of the left hand and' draw it towards you
through the palm until it is drawn through about
two feet from the end you hold in your right hand }
with your right wind the cord once round and
close to the left, pass the end you hold in your
right under the cord on the back of your left hand^
passing it from^ the wrist towards the forefinger
and drawing it through about three inches, leav-
ing the desired loop hanging below, keeping the
palm of the left hand upj pass the end with the
right hand under the cord beyond and outside of
your left, passing it fr^om right to left, then bring
it back over the cord on the back of your left
hand, i)assing it from the fingers towards the wrist^
barely i)assing the ^not on the end through j with
the right hold firmly ui>on the end and the loop
which was left hanging when you passed the end
three inches through, withdraw youT left hand
and with it take hold of the main rope and draw
the knot tight. You may think the directions for
tying this knot rather a comi)licated afiiair but
study the instructions given carefully and you
will have but little difficulty howeverj if you should

35

fail in the first attempt try again, two or three
times trying you will succeed. The small loop is
not used for bitting, but as you will see is used for
different purposes in handling the horse. Now
for the other end of the cord as used for bitting.
Take the other end of the cord, pass it around
the neck of the colt about mid- way between the
ears and shoulder, and get the size of the neck,
then remove from the neck and tie a bowline knot
the same as directions for small looj), now slip it
over the colt's head, and back on his neck as far as
j)racticable, with your right hand take hold of the
cord about eighteen inches below the neck, and
carry it through between the loop and neck for-
ward, and place the running loop so formed into
the colt's mouth ; now you have him in the posi-
tion for bitting. Take hold of the cord that hangs
down from the loox3 around the neck in your right
hand, step directly in front of the colt, place your
left hand upon his nose, gently puU upon the cord
with your right hand, with your lelt press against
his nose, you see by gently pulling with your right
and pushing with your left you carry his nose back
in the direction of his chest, that position gives
him an arched neck, that is the first position of
the head j the second is to carry his head well up.
to accomplish this it is necessary to step about
four feet in front of your colt's head, with the cord
in your right hand, and give a light pull forward
and upward, saying hold up your head sir, anoth-
er pull, at the same time repeating the word (hold

36

ui) your Lead.) The next move is to educate Iiim
to come to tlie rein quick to the rigiit and lefty
now with your cord step to the left side of the
colt (eight or ten feet feet hack) and give him a
sudden pull, and then to the right side and give
him another pull with the cord, hy repeating the
lesson about twenty minutes each day for three or
four days, your colt is well bitted he will come to
the rein quick and handy. The next is to make
him acquainted with the bit.

To get llic Colt nsea to tlie Bit.

^N^othing is mo7e desirable than to have a horse
viiTiy his head and neck gracefully. To eftect a
graceful carriage of the horse's head and neck,
various apparatus have been devised- — one of
which is the common old-ftishioned bitting harness,
and we must say we are bitterly opi)osed to its
use. The practice which has been adopted by most
farmers, of placing the bitting harness on the
horse, and buckling up his head as high as they
well can — also, drawing the side straps very short,
and then turning him out in a pasture field, is not
only cruel, but it gives a very ungraceful stiffness
to the horse's neck. How often it has been the
case where horses tiu^ned out in such a position
have reared and thrown themselves upon the
ground, struck the head upon a log, stone or some
liard substance, and lost their life ? In the first
]>lace, put your cord around your horse's neck,
i'.nd into the mouth, just as recommended for bit-

ting the colt. Lead yoiu' horse out of the stable;
let your cord be about fifteen feet in length ; take
your whip in the right hand 5 touch him lightly
on the quarters with the whip, and occasionally
give him a pull with the cord, but in doing so, if
he should ?tttempt to approach you, wave your
whip to keep him the proper distance ; and as of-
ten as he drops his head give him a sudden pull
with your cord, which will cause him to keej) hi8
head in a proper i^osition. Give him a lesson of
this kind about fifteen minutes each day for three
or four days, after which get prepared a heavy
surcingle. This is placed around your horse vnih
a crotch made the same as the end of a common
sawbuck ; this is fastened, and placed on the top
of the surcingle, and riveted fast, leaving the top
ends about two feet above the horse's back, with
inch buckle attaehed. Your bridle is now put on
with open reins, the end of each fastened to the
buckles above. Have no side reins, but lead him
out with yoiu' cord as before. When he attempts
to crowd on the bit, a little pull will put him in a
right position. When the horse has become some-
what used to the bit, you should buckle the stays
a little sliorter, and let him wear it so for a short
time ; he will very soon find out that he cannot
lower his head, and as his mouth will be rather
tender he Avill naturally raise his head to take off
the pressure of the bit from his mouth. You thus
give voluntary exercise to the muscles of the neck,
and in a short time it becomes natural and easy

38

for the horse to carry his head well up. Every
time you put on the bitting you can shorten your
straps a little, until he carries his head in the right
position.

Hsiruessing' tlie Colt fbr tlie First Time.

If the colt is shy about allowing you to put on
the harness, upon backing him out of the stall first
put the cord around his neck, with running loop
in the mouth, (same as for bitting) and give him a
shari) pull sidewise, at the same time repeat the
word whoa, also gently pat him upon the neck.
]N^ow lead him to the place on the barn floor where
you wish to have him stand while harnessing,
quietly take down your harness from the pegs 5 if
the colt moves from his position, lay down your
harness and give him two or three more sharx^
j)ulls with the cord at the same time with a firm-
ness repeat the word whoa 5 do not speak too loud,
be careful in pulling him around not to hurt him,
a few pulls with the cord, patting and caressing
about the neck and face frequently repeating the
word whoa, mil so quiet him, that you will have no
farther trouble. We well know this operation re-
quires a little time and patience. When the har-
ness is well on, take it off and repeat the process
until he will allow you to harness him without
scringing. In bridling the colt observe the same
rules with cord as for harnessing, with your cord
lead him around the yard for half an hour to ac-
quaint him with the moving of straps and the

39

feeling of harness in his iinaecustomed position^
if lie siiould attempt to escape, one pull with the
cord will bring him to you in a moment. After a
little time you may commence driving him with
the reins^ take the i)re(^ution to attach your web-
bing to the ankles of the left forward foot, bring
it back between the girth and body of the colt,
hold it in your hands as a third rein, if he should
attempt to run pull ui>on your webbing, take his
left foot from Mm ; that leaves him on three feet,
and in your power, at the time repeating the word
whoa ; that brings him to a stop. A lesson of two
or three hours each day for three or four days,
turning him in different directions, to stop and go
at the word, impressing upon his mind that you
are his superior, and can control him at pleasure,
he is now ready for hitching in harness the first
time.

Hitdiing tlie Colt to Hf^agoii tlie First Time.

In hitching the colt to wagon the first time, wc
think it a far better and safer plan to hitch him in
double harness, beside a well broke horse, also, on
the off side, and why 1 The first handling your
colt receives has been mostly upon the near side,
consequently, he being on the off side, and the
broke horse on the near side, where the colt had
received his first lesson, he would not be as apt to.
scringe as he would be to place the broke horse on
the off side. Again, should an accident occur, to
cause you to jumj) from your wagon, it would be

40

more natural for you to jump to the near side, anti
in stopi)ing your team it is more natural to get
out on the near side. The harness being on both
horses, you will now proceed to hitch them to
wagon. In doing this it will be necessary to have
some one to assist you 5 let your assistant lead the
]>roke horse to the near side of the pole } next
place yoiu' colt to the off side; let the person help-
ing you, hold the colt by the head while you
are buckling the reins, hitching the tugs, and
placing the webbing or long line to the anlde of
the left forward foot ; perhax3S it would be better
to buckle a short strap around the pasturn, with
ring attached, to guard against chating. To be
more fully understood, we will explain how it is
made : Take a soft leather strap, one inch and a
half wide, and ten inches long, with the inside
edges shaved thin j then take a strap of firm lea-
ther, fifteen inches long and one inch wide; on one
end place a buckle and loop, with a lap of two
inches on the under side ; in the other end i:)unch
liules for tho buckle-tongue, place the inch strap on
the outside of the wide strai), in the centre, with
one end extending one inch beyond the buckle ;
then stitch the two together, commenciog at the
buckle, and stitching two inches, having the loop
pretty close to the buckle, then sUp a one and a
half inch ring over the outer strap, close up to the
stitching ; then proceed with the stitching, and
close up. This finishes the strap which is ta
1>iKklo around the ankle of the forward foot? A

41

strap or webbiiig fifteen feet in length, is Imckled
or tied in tlie ring, and carried back between tlie
girth and body of the colt, and back into the
wagon, holding it with tlie lines in your hands.
All is now ready, start up slowly, stopioing occa-
sionally, while on a walk, pronouncing the word
"whoa," at the same time pulling up on the foot
strap. You will at once perceive that you have
the most i:>erfect control over the colt's movements.
Should he attempt to run, catch his foot and bring
him to a stop 5 don't halloo at the top of your
voice, but with fii^mness say iclioa. You may think
your colt would stumble and fallj but strange as it
may ai)pear to you it is almost imi)ossible when in
that i)osilion, for him to fall, or even stumble while
in motion. The colt being unused to work, it will
be necessary to give him a short drive the first
time, as you do not want him to get leg- weary, and
become sullen ; after which you can give him short
and lively drives until he becomes way- wised, and
obeys the rein and word quickly. When he has
by this means become accustomed to being han-
dled without scringmg, or shoAving signs of fear,
you may then hitch him up single.

llitcl&ing* tlae Colt isi Single Harness.

Put on your harness carefully, which should be
strong in every respect, and well fitted to your
colt 5 lead him around for a short time, until he
becomes familiar with the harness, then check
him quite loosely at first. Take your webbing, op

42

the strap, tliat you have used to handle his feetj
attach one end to the ankle of the right forward
foot, carrying it back through between the belly-
band of your harness and the colt. Now take
your reins from the X)ad, and you have three reins,
two to his head and one to his foot. Kow drive
him about a short time j when you want him to
stop, use the word tolwa.) and take his foot. Now
])lace the web or strap between his hind legs, touch-
ing him gently on each leg, if he should attempt
to jumj) or kick, say whoa, pull on the foot strap,
then gently approach him, pat and caress, to let
him know that you are with him, and that he has
done right in stopping. Continue this until he
will start and stop at the wordj come to the right
or left', as the reins indicate. He is now prepared
for the wagon. Do not be tempted under any cir-
cumstances to use an old rotten harness, or to
hitch your colt to an old rotten, rattling wagon,
liable to give way on the first move of the colt.
Many valuable colts have been so frightened
through such (*ferelessness as to become almost
useless.

Make everything safe and sure, as safety and
certainty should be yeur motto.

Before you liitch your colt into the shafts, lead
him around the wagon or sleigh, and let him ex-
amine ever^^ part of it ; then back him into the
shafts ; stand on the left side of your colt ; have
the strap or webbing attached to the right fore-
foot, and over the back, holding it constantly in

43

your baud ; now gently lift the shafts, and make
him fast; if he should attemi)t to move, the word
whoa, and the use of the foot strap, would quiet
him J now step to the right side, take the foot strap,
pass one end over the belly band of the harness,
and carry it back on the right side of the wagon,
over the hold back strap, using that as a third rein
in your hand. You see now that you are all safe.
If he attempts to run, i)ull upon this strap, wldch
instantly throws him on three legs, therefore he is
obliged to stop J if he attempts to rim back, the
same remedy stops him; if he attempts to kick,
call his attention to his forward foot instantly.

is"ow all that is necessarj' is to be careful, and
use a little common sense in teaching your colt
what you want him to do ; in a very short time
you have a colt that you can recommend as pro-
IDcrly broken, safe and kind for any one to drive,
which is almost the first question asked by the pur-
chaser.

We have now taken you through the whole list
of training yoiu^ colt, and we hope you will never
lose sight of all the important principle of our sys-
tem : Patience, Perseverance, and Kindness, with
a good share of Firmness ; and also remember
that colts should be trained not brolxen. Train a
colt in the way he should go, and he will never
need breaking. Do not do as many i^eople do, let
their colts run until they are four or'five years old,
and then undertake to break them the old fash-
ioned way; this is impracticable, for you as ofteii

u

break tlieir constitutions, their coiu^age, their spir-
its, and sometimes their }iecl'Sj and very often the
breakers themselves get hurt. The colt should be
taught step by step, with patience and persever-
ance, what you wish him to do ; not driven to do
what he does not know — what he cannot under-
stand— while smarting under the lash.

We will noAv commence with the old bad horse's
1j arness trick. We have very often remarked that
ninety -nine out of every hundred vicious horses
in harness are horses with ungovernable mouths.
If we govern the mouth we will, in almost every
instance, have a controlable horse. We will ask,
(lid the reader ever see a balky, kicking, bolting,
plunging, runaway horse, with a fine, easy, gov-
ernable mouth ? We never have, therefore we al-
Avays give the vicious horse a thorough training
with the Intting cord before hitching up ; in a short
time he will learn to yield the mouth readily to
the pressure of the bit, after he has been thorough-
ly trained with the cord. We wish to convince
him beyoiul a question that w^e have the power to
handle him just as we wish, and will just s^^ that
we consider it necessary to handle all horses in
a manner to com- ince them that they can be con-
troled 'j let your lessons be thorougii, but not very
long; be gentle and patient with the colt, but make
the old stubborn and vicious horse feel the extent
of your power until he submits ; then repeat un-
til he yields unconditional submission; then be

45

gentle and kind, yet firm, in your treatment af
terwards.

After testing all otlier i^lans that iiave been
brouglit before tlie pnblic, we must say that our
present system for handling a vicious horse — ^to
subdue him — or for performing surgical opera-
tions, that it is far ahead of anjiihing ever made
public, and if we had retired from the business of
teaching Horsemanshii) we would not be deprived
of the use of this one point for ten times its cost.
The first step in the management of a bad horse
is to show him that his willfuilness must yield to
superior iiower. This you can do best with the
use of our surcingle, which we will now explain so
that you need not make a mistake.

IL<csii*]fiiiig- a, Colt to Sack.

Learning the colt to back is the next operation,
and is a matter of great importance, as the future
value of your colt depends upon his being thor-
ougldy broken. It vshould be commenced while
bitting the colt; and before you ever attempt to
liarness youshoidd teach him to back i)rom]3tly at
the word, in the following maimer: Have on bit-
ting bridle, stand in front and a little to the left
of your colt, your left hand on the bridle, in your
right a light spring top whip j now give a quick
pidl on the bridle, at the same moment a light
blow on the nose with your whip and say, '^ back,
sir f eavse w]) on the bridle, your whip at youi' right
side, patting and caressing on the neck with your

46

right hand J in a few moments try it again. By
repeating this a few times he will learn what you
mean by saying "back, sir." He is now ready to
harness.

Su1>diiins; tJte Colt.

The plan for subjugating wild colts and vicious
horses has been experimented upon more than all
other points in horsemanship. At present there
are five different modes of operating, as follows :
Mr. J. S. Earey's plan of strapping the foot ; Mes-
srs. Kockwell & Hmibut's whirling until he stag-
gers, or falls to the ground ; Messrs. D. Magner &
Dudley claim to have an improvement upon the
last named by tieing a loop in the end of his tail ,
taking the tie strap of the halter, pass it through
the loop, bringing his head to his side, and tied
fast to the tail ; he then with a bow-top whip steps
behind the horse, cracks him sharp in the quarters,
and keeps him whirling until he falls. Another
plan, as introduced by Prof. Hamilton, is to pro-
cure a piece of rein webbing ten feet in length, at-
tach one end to the ankle of the left forward foot,
made fast with a timber hitch, which is made thus :
take the end of the webbing, carry it to the inside
of the pastern, bring it around the ankle to the
outside, thence under the main webbing over to the
outside and back of the pastern, then pass the end
under and up through between the ankle and web-
bing, passing the end through tmce, and slipped
up close (a knot tied after that manner cannot slip

47

or injure tlie pastern, and will also untie without
trouble). After the web is made fast to the pas-
tern of the left forward foot, the other end is car-
ried through under the chest, and over the horse-s
back to the near side j a half-inch cord is now tied
around the horse^s neck, about midway between
the head and shoulder, a running looi> is then pas-
sed through between the neck and cord, carried
forward and looi)ed into the mouth. He now lifts
the left forward foot, takes the webbing that is
brought over the back to the near side, draws it
close, winds the webbing around his right hand,
and presses the knuckles hard on the left side of
the back 5 with the left hand reaches to the off side
of the horse's neck, gi'asps the cord that is looped
into the mouth, and carries his head against his
right shoulder. After moving him upon three legs
for a little time, he then throws hira upoii the left
side. All of the above named plans may answer
very well, but we never adopt any of them, only
with the green colt. In handling a wild colt, if he
(at times) becomes stubborn and willful, we grasp
the halter ^ith the left hand, with the right gTasp
the tail, and give him a few sharp whirls to the
left, until he is somewhat dizzy, we then slip to the
opposite side, with the right hand grasp the nose-
piece of the halter, with the left the tail, give him
a few sliarp turns to the right; if he is rather sul-
len and refuses to move, with your left boot give
him a few kicks across the quarter, that will give
him a st^rt, after which you can whirl him either

48

'way as fast as you like. Tliis will have a good effect
upon a wild colt that has acquired no vicious hab-
its ; but for the old horse we use our surcingle ;
vStudy and fully understand its use and you will
not fail to bring them to an unconditional surren-
der. Eead carefully the next point in order, and
its use will be folly exi^lained.

Mo^v to Siil>«liic Si, TicloMs Morse*

Much has been said of Mr. J. S. Earey's systein
of subjugating vicious horses. It is known almost
the world over. He has taught his system in the
United States, Upper and Lower Canada, and has
also had the pleasure of operating before the Eoy-
al Court in England; and as far as our knowledge
extends, his system is met with approval of all
those that have attended his lectures. But after
giving him all the praise that is due, you must
consider Mr. Earey's system for subjugating vici-
ous horses is like all other new inventions that are
brought before the public — in a short time there
are very great improvements.

The plan we adoi>t by which to subdue vicious
horses we consider far superior when compared
with Mr. Earey's. We both accomplish the same
object, but by a different way of operating. And
why do we emi^loy such means by which to sub-
due vicious horses; it is to put Mm in a position
that he is unconscious of the amount of his strength,
satisfy and convince him that we can control him
to our liking, and when once conquered he sub-

49

^its himself to our will, after which he will do al-
most anything we may require of him.

Now, clear readers, before you attempt to do any
thing, it is necessary to know just what you are
going to do, and how you are going to do it ; and
if you are experienced in the art of taming wild
horses you ought to be able to tell within a few
minutes the length of time it would take you te
bring a wild horse perfectly under your control.

We have given you the first step. He is brought
up, and will follow you by the use of the whip,
Now, the next point is to subdue and conquer him.
Let your cord remain upon your horse the same as
for halter breaking. By the use of the cord you
win be able to keep him quiet while i)lacing the
surcingle around liis body, and other steps neces-
sary for his subjugation. Mr. Rarey bedded the
floor with straw, but we think it better to have a
clean floor, and pad well the knees. If your floor
is clean and diy there is no danger of your horse
slipping J if you use straw upon the floor it is apt
to give imder his feet j he would slip, and perhaps
get injured. Now for the plan and use of the sur
cingie :

I>£nieu<>»ioii.s aiiid Use ol* j^urciiigler

This is six feet six inches in length, with twx^lve
rings attached to it 5 the first ring is five . inches
from the buckle on the front edge ; next five inch-
es from the first on the back edge ; next, six inch-
es from the second. (This third riup< js? nvied fo?"

50

the left forward foot.) The fourth ring six inchej?
from the third, placed to the back edge. The fiftli
iind sixth rings are used as pulley rings to bring:
ui) the right forward foot ; the fifth ring five inch-
es from the fourth ; the sixth three inches from
the fifth. ]N"ext is a small ring two inches from
the sixth on front edge J next^ eight inches from
seventh on back edge-, next, nine inches from
eighth; next, three inches from ninth on back
edge ; next, one inch from eleventh on back edge :
the second and seventh rings are attached to the
front edge of the surcingle, used for bringing the
horse's head on his side when performing siu^gical
operations. The first, fourth, eighth, tenth, and
twelfth, are attached to the back edge by the \ise
of short straps fastened with copper rivets ; these
are used for fastening both hind feet to the sur-
cingle when performing operations such as castra-
ting, fireing^ etc.

You are now acquainted with the plan ; now
for its practical use.. Take your surcingle, aj)-
proach your horse on the left side, put it around
his body ; buckle so the third ring will be just in
the position by which to fasten the left forward
foot. Place in the third ring a strap eighteen inch-
es in length, one inch and a quartei wide, with
buckle and two loops, the same as common hame
strap; this put through the third ring, the end
slipped into the loop on the unfinished side, and
drawn through. The strap now hangs by the
third ring, fastened by a loop just back of the lett

51

forward arm. On tlie right side of the horse Just
back of the arm, are the fifth and sixth rings.
You have prex^ared another strap fifteen feet in
length, and one inch wide. One end of this strap
is buckled on the fifth ringj also a small stra])
eight inches in length, with one ring attached.
This is buckled around the ankle of right forward
leg, ring on outside. The other end of fifteen feet
strajo passes through the ring at the pastern, and
brought up through the sixth over the horse's back.
All is now in readiness for handling your horse.

You are standing on the left side of your horse.
Take up the left fore foot, and bend his knee till
his hoof is bottom ujpward, and nearly touching
his body; the strap hanging to the third ring is
Ijrought around* tlie ankle and buckled. The left
foot is now secured, and leaves your horse stand-
ing on three feet, and in j'our ijower. You are
standing on the left side of your horse ; grasp the
bridle-rein on the left side of the horse's neck, six
inches from the bits. Eeach over the horse's back
with your right, holding the strap that comes fiom
the opposite foot ; bear against his shoulder till
you cause him to move. As soon as he lifts his
foot, your pulling with your right will raise it in
the same position as his left, and he will have to
come on his knees ; keep the strap tight in your
right hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if
he rises up. Hold him in this position, and turn
his head towards you ; bear against his side with
your shoulder, not hard, but v>'ith a steady, equal

52

l^ressurCj and in about ten minutes lie will lie down.
As soon as lie lies down lie will be comi>letely
conquered, and you can liandle bini as you please ;
take off tbe strains, and straigbten out bis legs ;
rub biin gently about tbe face and neck witb your
band, tbe way tbe bair lies j baudle all bis le^s,
and after be bas lain ten or twenty minutes ]fet
bim get up j after resting bim a sbort time, lie liim
down again. Repeat tbe operation tbree or four
times, wbicb will be suflacient in most cases, for be
is perfectly conquered, and bas submitted bimself
to your will, and can be educated to do almost
anytbing you may require of bun.

By tbe use of tbe surcingle, you can i>lace your
borse in any position you like, witbout tbe assist-
ance of any one ; be can be castrated in twenty
minutes by one alone, can be educated to know
tbat a Buffalo robe, umbrella, piece of paper, or
any object bowever ffigbtful, is barmless, and af-
ter once educated in tbat manner you bave no
furtber trouble.

Castrating:.

Tbe plan usually adoi^ted for tbrowing and cas-
trating tbe colt bas been attended witb more or
less danger, time and trouble. Tbe operator bas
l>repared a rope about one incb and a balf in di-
ameter, and some twenty feet in lengtb, in tbe
center is made a loop, wbicb is slipped over bis
head and neck down to tbe shoulders, tbe ends
carried back and around tbe ankles of tbe bind

53

feet. One man is placed on each side of the colt,
holding the ends of said rope ; the third man at
his head. The two men holding the ends of the
rope, pull, while the man at his head endeavors to
back him. After some severe struggling, he is
thrown back upon his haunches. I must say the
plan is not only cruel, but attended with a great
amount of danger 5 the colt does not recover from
his injuries for some time. Two valuable colts, to
our certain knowledge, were rendered worthless
by the use of the above-mentioned step in throw-
ing them: one had his thigh broken ; the other
so injured across the loin that he became useless.
By the use of our surcingle as described on pre-
vious page, any boy fifteen years of age can lay
down a horse easily, and place him in any position
for performing surgical operations of any kind,
without the assistance of any one. In sections
where we are travelling in the spring season, colts
are sent to us daily to be castrated, and not in a
single case have we occupied more than ten min-
utes in performing the operation, without any as-
sistance. By the use of our surcingle it can be ac-
plished in ten minutes (alone),easier than adopt the
old fashion way, with half a dozen assistants.

HoTF to I>rive a RiinaTva y Horse.

This is easily effected by buckling a strap eight
inches in length, one inch wide, around the ankle
of the left forward foot, with inch ring attached ;
another strap fifteen feet in length, one inch wide,

54

with one eucl buckled to the haine ring, the other
end slipped through the ring attached to the past-
ern, and from thence under the hii)-strap into the
wagon. By adopting this plan you can remain
seated and control him as you please. When you
move your horse pull on your strap, and by so do-
ing you bend the leg inward, so as to bring the
bottom of the hoof nearly up to his body. Your
horse now stands on 'three legs, and you can
manage him as you please, for he can neither rear,
run, nor do anything of a serious nature. This
simple operation will conquer a vicious horse quick-
er than any other plan that can be adopted ; it
does not hurt him, while it enables him to per-
ceive that you can render him powerless. His
foot claims all his attention, and you can drive
him at your pleasure. He may at first get very
mad, and strike with his knees, but will soon give
over, after which you may go to him, let his foot
down, and caress him. You must bear ifi mind
that he will tire very quickly on tliree legs ; hence
you should let him have his foot as soon as he
seems to be fatigued. You can let him have his
foot without getting out of the wagon ; let your
strap be a little slack, the ring on the pastern slip-
ping backwards and forwards as he travels, so
that no obstruction is in the way. Drive him
with his foot down as long as he is quiet, but if he
attempts to do anything wrong, pull on the strap
and take his foot from him again. If he manifests
a desu-e to run let him have the lines, but keep

tlie strap firm that is attached to liis foot ; lie will
soon tire, and stop at the word. By driving him
in that way a short time, you will have efiectually
mastered his disposition to run, or try to get away.
We have seen hordes, totally unmanageable from
their vicious propensities, so gentled by this pro-
cess that in a few hom^s they might be driven any-
w^here with perfect safety ; and one great advan-
tage of the 'plan is, that the results are perma-
nent.

HoTT to I>i*ive a Kicking' If orsc.

It must be remembered this is a vice foremost
in point of danger. A vicious kicking horse is
more dangerous than one possessed of any other
vice. If your horse is a little nervous, lie him
down with your surcingle, and gently harness him
as though he were ever so kind. Then put on
your ten-cent cord bridle. This is made by taking
a half-inch cord twenty feet in length ; get the
centre, and loop two gang-runners one foot apart ;
now place it on the horse^s head just back of his
ears, with loop on each side ; the ends are brought
down, crossed through the mouth, and back
through the loops above. Kow your bridle is ar-
ranged on his head. Take the ends (after brought
through the gang-nmners) back through the tur-
rets of your pad ; place your horse between your
shafts ; buckle the belly-band close, so your shafts
cannot rise; then place a pidly on the top of the
shafts, each side of the horse's quarters ; make

56

them fast. Then bring the cords fi'om the turret.^
that are attached to the pad under the wheels of
the pulley, over the horse's quarters, and make
them fast. Your horse is in just the right posi-
tion. Have no fear, for you can drive any kicking
horse ^vith it anywhere you please. K he attempts
to raise his quarters, he throws his head violently
into the air, and can dp no harm 5 it has a pecu-
liar advantage over him, for it does not hinder
the traveling, as there is nothing attached to his
feet J and all you have to attend to is your lines..
Drive him_in that manner for three or four days,
after which remove it, and your horse is effectual-
ly broken of the vice.

Auotlier Plan for Driving* a H^clner in Har*

Place him between your shafts as before ; place
your cord bridle upon his head, and arrange
it same as first lesson for driving kickers in har-
ness. Kow get a two inch ring, place it on the
top of the back strap, where the hip straps cross ;,
get a piece of harness leather four inches long and
one inch wide. Stand the ring on the edge, take
the lour inch strap, j)ass it through the ring, and
stitch fast on each side. The ring is now made
fast to the back strap on top of the horse's hips»
Take the ends of your cord bridle (after passing
them through the gag-runners), bring them back
to the horse's quarters, and pass both ends througk
the ring that is attached to the back strap 5 tlxo

cord that is passed througli the g'ag--ruiiner, on the
left side of the horse's head, that hehig passed
through the ring, is brought down across the left
hip, and made fast to the shaft ; the one on the
right side of the head is passed through the ring,
carried down over the right hip of the horse, and
made fast to the off side shaft — drawn close enough
to keep his head well up. We think the explana-
tion given, sufficient to give the reader a full un-
derstanding of the horse's position. Get into
your wagon, start your horse, all you have to at-
tend to is your reins. You see at once if the horse
attemi^ts to raise his quarters, he sends his head
violently into the air. The cord bridle in his
mouth is very severe, and has a powerful control-
ling influence. In hitching him up the first time,
we would recommend hitching him to a two-
wheeled vehicle, with shafts strong, made of poles
some three inches in diameter. Should jou have
a horse of this kind, in kicking should he curb his
mouth against his chest, and kicking almost
straight back, without raising his head but little,
place an iron standing martingale two and a half
feet in length from the hames to the bits ; that
will keep his head well uj), and he can do no harm.
Drive the kicker in that position for eight or ten
days; drive him in such i)laces where he would be
most likely to get frightened and attempt to kick.
We think that length of time will subdue and
conquer the most of kickers.

58

Hoiar to Effaiitllc a KicSiiiag- Horse in Double
llui'iie^^^

In handling a kicking liors^ in double liarness
you can virtually adopt tlie same plan as recom-
mended in single liarness. Hitcli him to pole by
the side of a well broke horse ; procure a heavy
wagon shaft, with a bow at the butt, the same as
for carriage. Step to the side of your horse, pass
the small end through the lug strap (as in single
harness) turning it sidewise, then carry the point
of the crooked end under the end of the evener,
leaving a la}) of some four inches, and make fast
with two half-inch bolts, bend projecting outward,
after which i^rocure a strap four and a-half or five
feet lo\\g (owing to size of horses), one inch and
a-half wide, with billet buckle and loop attached
to each end, the same as your reins are buckled
into the ring of the bits. One end of this strap
is buckled around the false shaft, where it passes
through the tug strap of the harness of the kick-
ing horse ; the other end is passed through under
the chest of each horse, just back of the forward
legs, and buckled into the outside tug buckle of
the opposite horse. That is to prevent the shaft
from raising when the horse attempts to kick.
]N'ow place j^our cord bridle upon the horse's head,
as recommended in single harness ; bring the ends
back, and pass them through the ring made fast
on the top of the hips ; on one side bring one of
the cords down across the hip, and make it fast to
the pole; the other end over the hip, and make

59

fast to the false shaft. He is now in almost tlie
same position as when between the single shafts.
The strap under the chest prevents the shaft from
rising, should he attempt to kick, also the horses
from spreading. We have another plan of work-
ing a Kicking horse in double harness, and why
we do not recommend it in all cases is because the
operator is too apt to get careless, and neglect to
watch closely the moves of the horse. The oper-
ator can always tell by watching him closely ,when
he is premeditating a vicious move : a little scring-
ing, dropping of the ear, frisking of the tail, hog-
ging down on the bit with a sudden start, all in-
dicate something wrong. Consequently, you see
'tis liighly necessary to watch his moves closely.
The plan we were about to speak of is as follows,
and oiu' experience in handling horses wairants
us in recommending it a good one : Hitch your
kicker by the side of a well broke horse, procure a
strong half mch cord fifteen or eighteen feet in
length, pass it around the horse's neck, get the
size', tie your bowline knot, slip it over the head,
and well down toward the shoulder, then take
hold of the cord below, pass it through the loop,
between the neck and cord, and place the running
loop into his mouth, same as for bitting ; then at-
tach the long foot strap to the ankle of the inside
forward foot, carry the other end back between
the girth and bocfy, into the wagon; alsoyourcord.
Get some friend to ride with you the first time, he
driving the team, you handling the cord and foot

60

strap. If he attempts to kick, take his foot from
him, give him a sudden pull ^ith the cord. We
have broken some of the worst kind in a very few
days by adopting this plan. You have a powerful
controlling influence over them, as they can nei-
ther run nor kick. Try it.

Ho^v to use a Bailky Horse.

If ever we felt that the horse deserved the phil-
anthroi)ic sympathy of man, it has been when we
have seen a man ignorant and brutal in his own
nature trying to move a balky horse. We will
have been amply repaid, and will have certainly
given every one who buys this book a rich equiva-
lent for his money, if by its perusal we induce a
more civilized mode of treatment. We are to re-
member that balking is an acquired habit, and
not from any disinclination on his part to pull.
We know that some men will take the very best
pulling horse, and in a short time make him balk,
simply from mismanagement. It is not the dull,
indolent horse which balks, but the high-spirited
and firey horse of blood and mettle ; this is so be-
cause those who undertake to drive them do not
understand them. Notice which horse of a team
it is that balks, and you will mostly find it to be
the one of the highest mettle. He hears the
command to go, and, bemg mo^ ready to obey
than the other, he springs off 5 but, not being able
to start the Avagon, he is thrown back on his
haunches, stopping the other as well as himself.

Gl

The di^ver wliooi)S aud suaps his whip, and by
the time that the slower horse has started, the free
horse has. made another effort, failed, and now
both are balked. Both horses recognize that
something- is wrong, and neither knows what.
They are alike afraid to move. Then the driver
plies the whii), whoops and slaps the lines, all of
which only tend to make the matter worse. This
has been seen by almost every person. The horse
was willing to go, but did not know how to move
the load j and we ask any sensible man to tell us
if the horse should be beaten for not doing that
which he did not know how to do. You can
make a horse do almost anything which he can
fully understand; and we do contend that by
i>roper education any balking horse can be start-
ed in a few minutes. Some have adopted the plan
of buckling a strap to the ankle of one forward
foot, standing in front, and by pulling the foot
forward the collar i)resses against the shoulder,
and he will move. Others have adopted the plan
of throwing a handful of sand in his eyes, but to
this plan, though it succeeds, we are bitterly op-
posed. We would sooner own a balky than a blind
horse.

If you get hold of a horse that has been long in
the habit of balking, just set apart a day for his
education. Go into some pasture field, hitch your
horse to a light load, something that he can move
easily. If he refuses to pull, get a half inch
cord ten feet in lengtli, tie it around his neck and

62

loop it forward into his month, jnst as recommend-
ed for halter-breaking. Step to one side, give
him a sudden pnll and he will move *a step to-
Avards you. Step to the opposite side ; give him
another sudden pull -, by repeating it ten or twelve
times he will start T^illingly. Then increase your
load, and if he refuses to pull use the cord as
above. We have seen the worst of ballsy horses
in three hours time made perfectly kind— to pull
in any spot or place. The plan is simple. And
why is it so effectual ? There is nothing you can
place in a horse's mouth by which you can control
him with such ease. The cord is*^ placed around
his neck, and brought forward into his mouth,
and by a sudden pull with the other end it is
am^vn suddenly across his tongue, comes m con-
tact with the nerve of his lower jaw, which he can-
not long endure, and he willingly moves off. If
^it any future time he should show any symptoms
of balking, a lesson vrith the cord is all that is
necessarv.

Mow toUrcaLc a IIiilie2-I*iillei-.

Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have
it made so that it will not di-aw tight around his
nose 5 if he pulls on it, it should be of right size
to fit his head easily and nicely, so that the nose
band will not be too tight or too low. Is^ever put
a rope halter on an unbroken colt, or a horse that
is in the habit of pulling at the halter, under any
circumstances whatever. Thev have caused more

G5

iioi-tscs to hurt or kill themselves thau woiikl par
tor twice the cost of all the leather halters that
ever were needed for the purpose of halteriug-
colts. It is almost impossible to break a horse of
the vice with a rope halter. He will pull, rear
aud throw himself, aud thus endanger his life.
And we will tell you why. It is just as natiu'al for
a. horse to try to get his head out of anything that
hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as it would be for you
to try to get your hand out of a fire. The cords
of the rope are hard and cutting j this makes him
raise his head, and draw on it j and as soon as he
pulls, the slip-noose (the way the rope halters are
always made) tightens and i)inches his nose, and
then he will struggle for life. Who would run the
risk of a fine horse breaking his neck rather than
pay the price of a leather halter ? If you have a
horse that, from mismanagement, has acquiied the
habit of pulling at the halter, place your leather
halter on his head; the strap you hitch him with,
have it twenty feet in length. You may hitch
him in a stall, or to a post outside, or any place
where he is in the habit of pulling. If ift a stall, run
the end of yoiu^ rein through the hole in the man-
ger, then back through the ring of the halter ;
and as you pull it through the ring bring his head
within two feet of the manger, then between his
forward legs, and make fast to the ankle of his
left fore foot. AYe think you can see clearly theie
is no possible chance for him to break his halter,
or get loose. If he makes an attempt to pull.

hack ke brings Ms left hind foot forward under
tlie body, is fearful lie will fall, and steps forward
m a moment. After lie lias made tlie attempt to
brealv his baiter tbree or four times, you may take
any object, bowever frightful, and hold it in a
I)Ositionto frighten him, and he will not make an
eifort to pull back. We have seen the worst of the
kind effectually broken of the vice in thirty minutes.

Anotlier and Hettei* l*l»n fov Brealcing- a,
Malter-i*iaier.

Lead your horse to a place most convenient for
hitching him. It don^t matter whether to a post,
in the stall, or elsewhere. Place a common strap
halter upon his head, then i)rociu^e a piece of rein
webbing fifteen feet in length, or a strap one and
a fourth inch wide, of same length ; get the cen-
tre of said webbing or strap. Kow buckle a com-
mon web surcingle around his body, just back of
the shoulder, then lay your webbing across his
)iips, carry one end forward, between the surcin-
gle and body, on the left side, the opposite end
between the surcingle and body, on the off side
of the colt, the centre rests across his hips, the
ends carried forward. Take th^. centre of the
webbing in your right hand, give it one turn over,
that leaves it crossed ui^on his hips ; carry the
centre and pass his tail through the loop yott
made by turning the centre of the webbing over,
the same as cruppering with harness. Step for-^
ward, reach your left baud through under the

65

horse^s neck, take hold of the end of webbing on
the off side 5 with your right hand take the end
on the left side, bring the two ends together un-
der the neck, and tie them around the chest. Then
carry the end of your tie strap through the ring
in manger, or some point where he has been in the
habit of pulling ; bring back and make fast to the
webbing that passes around the chest. Your hal-
ter-puller now is in the right position ; if he re-
fuses to pull, induce him to do so by frightening
him in some manner. Our experience with halter
pullers warrants us in saying this plan is lasting
and effectual. You can hitch him in the stall, let
him remain in that position through the night.
He can lie down, get up,and move around the stall
without injimng himself in any way. Hitch him
each day at different points where he has been in
the habit of pulling, after which you need have
no fears of his breaking a common halter-

A RunaTFay, Bolting, ©r Pliiiig^ing* Horse.

This is a very dangerous vice, one accompanied
with a great amount of danger to limb and life.
If the horse, when making an effort to run, be-
comes very ^vild and desperate, and in bolting",
would jump off some bridge or precipice, it is
highly necessary to have some means of control-
ling him, and to bring him to a sudden stop. To
accomijlish this, use the cord with small loop plac-
ed aroimd the under jaw of the horse; the other
end is carried over his neck, brought back, and

66

passed througli tlie small loop attached to the un-
der Jaw, and tlience back into the wagon. The
running loop over the horse's neck should be kept
well back to his shoulder. Kow prepare two long
foot straps, and attach the end with short strap
to the ankle of each forward foot. The other ends
])ass through between the girth and body of the
horse, outside of the traces and into the wagon.
Hold your long foot straps and cord in your hand
with the reins, then drive him along in places
where he would be most apt to scare. If he at-
tempts to run or bolt, give him a strong pull with
the cord, at the same time say (with firmness)
''what are you doing, sir?" go 'long." That may
cause him to straighten up, and perhaps give him
a sudden start ; if so, give him another pull, and
say, "carefully, sir !" If the second pull does not
check his speed, and you think he may get tlie
best of you, then is the time to pull on the foot
straps 5 take his feet from him, and drop him to
his knees, pronouncing the word whoa. That
brings him to a stop without any failure. Now
ease up on your foot straps ; do not hold him by
the feet after dropping him to his knees, for in so
doing he would be likely to struggle, fall over, and
perhaps break your shafts. Again start him, if
he attempts the same move, take his feet and bring
him to a stop. He will not attempt the same
move but a few times. There is nothing that will
so frighten a horse, as to think he is going to be
pitched on his head. The plan will eifectually

67

conquer and subdue that wilful disposition. Aft^r
driving him. a few times with both w^ebs, you may
then feel safe to drive him with one. Every few
days repeat the lesson with cord, and one long
foot stra]3 ; a lesson each day for a few days will
produce the desu^ed result. The same i)lan is
adopted with colts that are in the habit of running,
and kickiug at dogs, hogs, pieces of paper flying
in the street, and the like. They are constantly
on the lookout for such objects, and the driver or
owner is never safe. Place the cord as recom-
mended above, into the mouth, and the webbing
to the foot, or both if necessary ; for our experi-
ence in handling horses has convinced us that
some horses have the streng*th, und will to run a
foiuth of a mile on three feetj that is the reason
why (in some cases) we use the long strap attach-
ed to both feet. In that case you disconcert them
at once. If the colt is very headstrong when
frightened, place the webbing to both forward feet,
and cord in the mouth. Also with open bridle, so
he can see all around him. Take a dog into the
wagon with you j as you are driving quietly along
toss the dog out on the same side you are driving
your colt. If lie attempts to kick and run, give
him a sudden pull with the cord ; at the same
time take his feet from him, saying ivhoa. Get out,
pat and caress him ; then repeat it again. A tew
lessons will break him.

Pawing iu the 8 tall.

Get a common trace chain, about two feet long f
fasten it to tlie leg that he i^aws with, just above
the knee, with a hame strap, and let the chain
swing to the side of the leg. He will soon be
glad to keep it still.

Kicking iu the .^tall.

Some horses acquire this vice from mere irrita
bility, and uneasiness in the stall. If the horse
kicks with but one foot he can be broken, very
easy, by attaching a wooden clog to the ankle of
the foot that he kicks with. If with both feet,
take the saddle part of a harness, and buckle on
tightly ; then take a short strap, with a ring and
buckle around the forward foot, below the fetlock ;
to this strap attach another strap ; bring ui>, and
pass through the turrets down to the hind foot,
below the fetlock. With this attachment on each
side, the moment that he kicks he will pull his
forward feet from under him, which brings himto
his Iftiees, and he will be careful not to do so
very often. Let him stand in the stall iu this way
until he gives up the foolish habit.

Vicious Biters.

If he is a stallion, with the contirmed habit of
biting and striking at your approach, we can give
you but little encouragement. We vrould not
think it worth while to attempt to brealv him, but
would advise you to castrate him at once. How

'ever, we liave l^ouglit several bad biting stallions,
and effectually cured them of the vice while in our
possession j but on the approach of a stranger,
they would show more or less viciousness. I have
known owners of such horses to whip them until
they would tremble in every joint, and were (seem-
ingly) almost ready to di'op, but have never, in a
single case, known them cured by such treatment.
In twenty minutes he is as determined as ever to
renew the combat 5 he seems unable to resist the
temptation ; I sometimes think it a species of in-
sanity. If you have a mare or gelding in posses-
sion of the vice, you can easily cure them. Plaee
the small loop of the cord round the under jaw,
with running looj) over the neck; have the small
loop fit so close a2?ound the jaw t3iat he canuot
spit it out, also under the tongue ; the other end
carry out of the stall, and hang on the peg where
you hang your harness. Kaw^ as j^ou step uj) tp
the stall, take hold of the cord with one hand, the
other, phice on his quarter, and say, "stand over,'*
if he attempts to frisk, or bite at you, give him a
sudden pull, and say, ^'take care, sir !" then pass
into the stall ; if he again attempts to bite at you,
give him another sharp ]3uU, saying, ^'what are you
doing, sir !" Give him a few lessons of this kind
and a cure is i)erformed.

Bad to Briflle, Harness, or Qroom.

A horse that is bad to bridle, is generally one
that is tender about the ears ; those bad to gToom

70

or harness, are naturally very sensitive skinned,
A sharp curry comb is very irritating, and in the
act of harnessing, should there be a sore or chafed
six)t, it creates a spasmodic, nervous movement of
the skin. Such horses can easily be broken of the
vice by the use of the cord. Place the long
loop around the ne«k, with running loop in the
mouth, as for bitting. Stand by the shoulder,
give him a sharp pull with the cord, at the same
time repeating some word, such as " whoa, boy,^
"' be careful,^' *' be quiet," or the like 5 now step to
his side, pat and caress him about the head, neck
and shoulders. Steadily pull the cord through
the mouth with your right hand ; with your left
softly handle his ears until he becomes quiet. A
few times bridling with the cord will cure him of
the vice. For grooming or harnessing, use the
cord the same. If he will not stand quiet to be
harnessed or gTOomed, a few sharj) i^ulls to the
right and left will bring him to a surrender. Use
the cord each time for a few days, and he will be-
come docile and quiet.

Rolling: 1m tlie Stall.

In the first place break your horse from rolling
in the stable, for it is a habit that cannot be in-
dulged in without a chance of being east. Some
horses will get cast, bruised, and half strangled,
yet he will roll again the next night, and continue
to as long as he lives. Our plan to break up this
habit is to place a thin, soft pad under the sur

«Dingle, with sharp nails so arranged that they will
rnn through the pad, and prick him, when he at-
tempts to rolL

€^ettiii€: CsLst in the «tall.

If there is anything that will vex, and irritate
the proprietor of a stable, it is to have some one of
his horses getting cast in the stall. Every night
a thimdeiing noise is heard, and some one calls
out, '^ you have a horse cast" Up he gets^ hurriei?
to the stable, and with a gTcat deal of hard labor
they finally succeed in getting the horse tG his
feet, stiff, and badly galled. Observe the follow-
ing and you will have no such trouble : Place on
your horse a- five ring strap halter, (a five ring
halter he cannot slip) where the strap comes over^
the head, just back of the ears, attach a one and
a-half inch ring ; do not slip the top piece through
the ring ; you must make it fast, so it will not slip
to the right or the left ; get a strap four inches
long, one inch and a quarter wide, set youi' ring-
in the centre of the strap that comes over the top
of his head, then run the four inch strap through
the ring, stitching both ends, lea.ving the ring fast
in the centre ; with the tie strap of your halter,
make fast to the ring of the manger, leave suffi-
cient length to put his nose within one foot of the
floor. Over his head, and in the floor above, at-
tach a staple and ring ,♦ now put his nose within
one foot of the floor, and get the distance from the
3ing in the top of the halter to the ring in the sta»

72

pie above^ about a foot back from the manger,
Tlie horse has the liberty to lie dowii^ but cannot
lay his head side wise : consequently he cannot get
cast The above never fails.

I^riTing^ on One Rein.

Even the angles of the mouth, with the bitting
cord. Then keep the blinders up so that he can-
not see the driver, for this is often the cause — he
is often watching back with one eye, and carry-
ing his head to that side, constantly pulling upon
the opposite rein. Oftentimes it is caused by the
grinders being sharp ; if so, file them off..

Hard Pullers.

It is often remarked, and hj horsemen, too, if
iyou have a hard i)uller upon the bit,, give him all
the road he wants, and let him go. If he goes too
fast, jerk him up, first with one line, then with the
other. I have known some hard pullers,, by giv-
ing them the rein and all the road they wanted,,
would run until they would falL and repeat the
same thing day after day. The idea is perfectly
absurd j it will amount to nothing but a broken
down constitution. Let me speak of a simple
plan by which you can control such horses at
I)leasure. Get a common snaffte bit, around
which weld two iron rings one inch and a-half in
diameter ; the bit is now placed in the horse's
mouth, with rings slipped close to the cheek bars ;
get a half-inch strap, ten inches in length, with

billet buckle and loop attached to each end, same
as for buckling check reins in bits^ now place it
across the horse's nose, and buckle each end into
the rings that are welded around the bit. That
brings the rings very close each side of the upi)er
jaw 5 stitch to the centre of the strax) across the
nose, one end of another half-inch strap eighteen
inches long ; to the other end attach the buckle on
the top of the bridle and between the ears. This
is to keep the nose piece from dropping over the
nostril; the bit is now arranged. Place your
horse between your shafts ; buckle your reins and
start him along. Drive him with a slack rein as
long as he is quiet ; if he attempts to go very fast
pull ui)on the lines. As you pull, the rings a-
round the bit crowd with more force against the
sides of the face, throwing his mouth wide open,
and causing the most excruciating pain. Drive
him a few days with a bit so arranged, after which
any boy twelve years of age can drive him vdth
perfect ease.

Tongue O^cr the Bit«

Attach to your bridle a cheek bit, as follows : —
Procure a small steel bar bit. A small one, so the
cheek bars will sit close each side of the horse's
face. To this bit buckle checks and cheek pieces
of bridle : through this bit drill two holes, leav-
ing a space between, and in the centre, of two
inches and a half; get a thick piece of harness
leather six inches long ; cut it in the form of a

74

diamond, two and a half inches wide, with ends
iounded off to a point. The centre of this piece
of leather is doubled over the bit, with edges just
covering the two holes; it is now stitched togeth-
er across, and close to the bit j also edges of
points are stitched firmly together, as the bit is
placed in the mouth, the rounded points of the
leather run ba<?k into the horse^s mouth, and top
of the tongue. He is now checked up, and the
bit kept snug in his mouth ; yoiu' reins are not to
be buckled to this check bit, but another is used
tor driving. Get a common snaffle bit. This is
made fast to the check pieces of the bridle with a
couple of small half-inch straps five inches long,
with buckle and loop attached, letting it hang in
the mouth, one inch below^ the check bit ; to this
attach your reins. You now have a driving, as
well as a check bit. If the horse attempts to
work his tongue over the bit, the piece of leather,
so attached, will prevent him at once. Should he
(as is seldom the case) carry his tongue under the
bit and out of the mouth, to the holes drilled
through the bit attach a piece of large wire, paSvS-
ing the ends through; let the centre drop one-half
inch below, same as a wide wire staple. When
you put the bit in his mouth, pull his tongue
through the loop, seeing that the space is large
enough for it to sit easy. These plans will soon
break a horse of the contemptible habit.

75

To 8l£oe a Horse that is Yicious,

We care not liow vicious a horse may be when
shoeing him, we think we can make the worst of
the kind, stand perfectly still in ten minutes, so
that the smith will have no further trouble. The
plan which is adopted by the smiths in general is
not only cruel, but has a tendency to make them
far worse. A colt is taken to the shop, wild and
uneducated; and during the process of setting
the shoes, if he makes a wrong move, the smith
gets in a fearfal rage, gives him a sharp blow with
the hammer or rasp, the horse rears and plunges,
and is so frightened he will not allow a hand laid
upon him. The next move is to fetter or cast him.
A rope is put around his neck, then to the ankle
of each of his hind feet, then forward ; with i>er-
haps two men at each end, they pull on the rope,
and the horse is thrown back ui^on his haunches.
We have seen fine horses so injm-ed across the
loins by adopting this plan of throwing them, that
they were never again ftfc for use. .

Another plan is to put a pair of tongs upon his
nose, then a rope to the ankle of one of his bind
feet, and through a ring made fast to his tail ; his
foot is drawn back ; and made fast to the side of
the shop.

Now, we ask any man if there is any common
sense in emploj^ng such means by which to shoe
a wild horse. If a horse struggles, which he ]h
sure to do, he must get badly injured. In shoe-
ing a bad horse, never confine him. Get a small

76

eord about ten feet in lengtli, place it aronnd his
neck and into liis mouth, just as recommended
for halter breaking, balking, &c. All it will cost
you is five cents, and by its use you enn shoe the
worst of the kind without trouble. In attempting
to raise the foot, if the horse should rear or at-
tempt to kick, let go the foot and give him a sud-
den pull with the cord ; then pat him on the neck,
saying, " Ho ! boy ; ho ! boy f then bold the cord
in your hand, and with the right pick up his foot.
If he does not stand quiet, put his foot down, and
.give him two or three sudden pulls with the cord.
Handle him in that manner ten minutes, and he
will not dare to move. Smiths in many places
have said they would not be deprived of the use
of the above plan for one hundred dollars.

For Teacliing' a Hor^iie lo Bmclc, or a Horse
tlisit is in the Habit ol* Bolting:,

The cord is all that is necessary for teaching
your horse to back. Plac^ a pair of them around
his neck and into his mouth, one on each side. Get
behind your horse, and you can teach him to
back at the word in twenty minutes. For a bolt-
ing horse, use but one. If he is in the habit of
bolting to the right, place the cord on the left
side, and back into the wagon. If to the
left, place it on the right side of the neck and
into the wagon ; and when he attempts to bolt, a
sudden pull will bring him in the right direction.
Drive liim with a cord a short time, and he in

brokeu of tlie vice. To educate him to tlie word
" Wlioa," a little pull, accomi)anied with the words^
" Ho ! hoy," is all that is necessary, aud he will
obey YOU.

'Flic Plan for a Breacliy Horse.

A hreachy horse is oue that costs a farmer a great
amount of time and trouble. He goes to the i)asture
field, but is never sure of finding him where he
perhaps left him the evening previous. Mr. Cole's
Xjlan, by which to prevent a horse from jumpiug,
is to i)lace a leather surcingle tight around his.
body, with inch ring under the chest, fastened to
the surcingle ; also, a strap one inch wide, eight
inches in length, buckled around the ankle of the
left hind foot, with ring attached ; a strap one inch
wide, three and a half or four feet in length, (the
leugth of this strap is governed according 'to the
size of the horse,) one end buckled ui the ring
under the chest, the other end to the ring attach-
ed to the ankle. If the horse should attemj^t to
jump, placed in such a position, he deprives him-
self of the use of the left hind foot, has not power
in the right, sufficient to rise — consequently he
mnst fail in his attempt. In most cases the plan
l^roves quite eflfectual.

To improve this surcingle, and prevent its work-
ing back, attach another ring to front edge, and
under chest j to this ring attach another strap as
follows : procure a strax) one inch and a-half wide
and two feet long j split this strap in the centre t©

' 78

TTithiu four luches of one end, being the same as
the crotch end of an old fashion standing martin-
gale ; the wide end is passed through the ring un-
der the cliest, with two inch lap, and stitched fast,
eight inches fi'om the ends of split strap ; a
buckle is made fast, leaving a billet eight inches in
length. ^Now bring one of the split straps around
the left arm outside ; carry it back between the
forward legs, pass the eight inch billet through tke
ring under the chest, again forward, drawing up
the slack and buckling fast ; the other part of
split strap is carried around the nigh arm of the
horse, and made fast same as left one. You see
the horse has the privilege of Avalking around the
pasture, but cannot easily trot or run, and should
he attempt to jump, in the act of raising forward,
those^straps tighten, he has no use of his forward
legs, and is disconcerted at once. I have known
horses fail to jump a fence four rails high, with
that simple attachment.

IIo^v to Catcli a .Horse in I*as»turc.

The i)revailing opinion of horsemen generally is,
that the sense of smell is the governing sense of
the horse, and that no means can be employed by
Avhich to catch a wild horse in pasture without the
use of strong smelling oils. Sullivan, Faucher, avS
well as others, have got up receipts of strong
smelling oils, to catch and tamo a wild horse —
sometimes using the castor of his leg, which they
dry, grind into a powder, and blow into his nos-

79

ifils; sometimes using the oil of rhodium, cum-
mill, and organum, that are noted for their strong-
smell ; and sometimes they scent the hands with
the sweat fi'om under their arms, and blow their
])reath into his nostrils ; all of which, as far as
the scent goes, have no effect whatever in gentle-
ing or subduing the horse, or conveying any idea
to his mind, though the work that accompany
theseefforts— rhandling him, touching him about
the nose and head, and patting him, as they di-
rect you should after administering the article,
will have a very gTeat effect, which tliey mistake
for the effect of the ingredients used. By using
the oils, you can approach a wild horse in pasture,
and, after caressing him for a length of time, get
your halter on his head, but when you attempt to
lead him, he is off' as wild as ever.

Faucher, in his work entitled The Arabian Art of
Taming Horses, page 17, tells us how to ac<!ustom
a horse to a robe by administering certain articles
to his nose, and goes on to say, that these articles
must 111 St be applied to the horse's nose before you
att<?mi)t to break him, in order to operate success-
fully. Now reader, can you, or any one ei8i\ give
one single reason how scent can convey any idea
to the horse's mind of what we want him to do.
If not, then of course strong scents of any kind
are of no account in taming the imbroken horse :
for everything that we get him to do of his own
accord, without force, must be accomplished by
some means of conveying our idea to his mind. I

80

say to my horse ^'Golong^'^^ndhegoesj '• wlioa/^'
and lie stops, because these two words — of whieli
he has learned the meaning by the tap of the whip,
and the pull of the rein, that first accompanied
t^em — convey the two ideas to his mind of go anfel
stop. Faucher, nor any one else, can never learn
the horse a single thing by means of scents alone.
How long do you suppose a horse would have to
stand and smell of a bottle of oil before he would
learn to bend the knee, and make a bow at your
bidding, go yonder and bring your hat, or come
here and lie down.

ThiLS you see the absurdity of trying to break,
or tame the horse by the means of receix)ts for ar-
ticles to smell of, or medicines to give him, of any
kind whatever. The only science which has ever
existed in the world relative to brealdng horses,
that has been of any account, is that true method
which takes them in their natural state of mind,
and improves their intelligence. Consequently, if
you wish to educate your horse in a proper man-
ner, adopt a mechanical process. He will then
fully comprehend your meaning, and obey at the
word. If your horse is wild, and will not be
caught when in pasture, drive him into the barn
and close the doors, and make them fast, after
wliicli adopt Mr. Smith's plan on lifth and sixth
pages it will bring Inm up to you, and he ^ill fol-
low you just where you wish to go; after which
you can go the pasture field, and say " come here,
boy,'' and he obeys the call at once, and gives you
no furtjier trouble.

'81

iTiie period wlien the shoe began to be nailed to
the horse is uncertain. William, the Norman, in-
troduced it into England. Far more than is ima-
gined to the comfort, and health, of the horse,
with tlie safety of his rider, depend upon shoeing.
In taking off the old shoe the clinches of the nails
should always be carefiiUy raised, or filed off, and
where the foot is tender, or the horse is to be ex-
amined for lameness, eaeh nail should be partly
punched out. The edges of the criist ai'e then to
be rasped, to detect whether any stubs remain in
the nail holes, and to remove the crust into which
dii-t and gravel have insinuated themselves. Next
comes the iDij)ortant process of paring out, ^vith
regard to which it is impossible to lay down any
specific rules. It is, however, undoubted that far
more injury has been done by the neglect of par-
ing, than by carrying it to too great an extent. The
act of paring is a work of much more labor than
the proprietor of the horse often imagines. The
smith, unless he is looked to, will fiiequently give
himself as little trouble about it as he can, and
that portion of horn which in the unshod foot,
would be worn away by contact with the gTOund,
is suffered to accumulate month after month, un-
til the elasticity of the sole is destroyed, it can no
loDger descend, its other functions are impeded.

82

and foundation is laid for corn or contraction, ane^
navicular disease, iniiammation. That portion of
horn sliould be left on tlie foot wliicli will defend the-
internal parts from being brui.sed,aud yet suffer the
external sole to descend. How is this to be as
certained? The strong pressure of the thumb' of
the smith will be the best guide— the buttress,-
that most destructive of all instruments, being.
except on very particular occasions, banished
from every resi)ectable forge. The smith sets to
work with his drawing knife, and removes the
growth of the horn until the sole will yield, al-
though in the slightest possible degree, to the
strong pressure of his thumb. The proper thick-
ness of horn will then remain. The quantity of
horn to be removed in order to have the proper
degxee of thickness will vary with different feet.
Prom the strong foot a great deal must be taken.
From the concave foot the horn may be removed
until the sole will yield to a moderate pressure.
From the flat foot little need be pared, ^vhiie the
pummaced foot should be deprived of nothing but
the ragged parts. The crust should be reduced to
a perfect level all round, but left a little higher
than the sole, or the sole will be bruised by ita
pressure on the edge of the seating. The heels
will require considerable attention. From the
stress which is tlirown on the inner heel, and from
the weakness of the quarter there, the horn usual
ly wears away considerably faster than it would
on the outer one, and if an equal portion of hon.

83

were pared from it it would be left lower than the
oiit^r heel. The smith should therefore accom-
modate his i^aring to the comx)arative wear of his
heels, and be exceedingly careful to have them
precisely level. The position of the heels between
the inflection of the bar and the frog should scarce-
ly be touched — at best the ragged and detached
part^ alone should be cut away. The foot may
not look so fair, and open, but it will last longer
without contraction. The bar likewise should be
left fully prominent, (never allow the smith to cut
away the bar, or frog, of the foot) not onlj^ at its
first inflection, but as it runs down the side of the
fi'og. The heel of the shoe is designed to rest
partly on the heel of the foot, and partly on the
bar, for reasons that have been already stated. If
the bar is weak the growth of it should be en-
couraged, and it should be scared}^ touched when
the horse is shod, unless it has attained a level
with the crust. It has been argued by many that
the horn between the crust and the bar should be
carefully pared out, and by so doing give reUef to
the animal lame with corns. If a little spring is
given to the heel of the shoe it gives relief ; also
the practice of weakening the crust of the foot
whore it is so much needed.

We will give you some idea of the young and
healthy foot. Approaching nearly to a circle, and
of which the quarters from the widest part, being
just as wide as it is long. But we are sorry to say
that this shape is not long preserved in many

horses ; but the foot increases, aud narrows in the
quarters, and more particularly at the heel, and
the frog is diminished in width, the sole become^
more concave, and the heels higher, and the lame-
ness, or at least a shortened and feeling action,
ensues.

It must be premised that there is a great deal
more horror of contracted heels than there is occa-
sion for. Many persons reject a horse at once if
the quarters are wiring in, but the fact is that al-
though this is an unnatural form of the hoof, it is
slow of growth, and nature kindly makes that
provision for the slowly altered form of the hoof
Tvhich does in similar cases — she accommodates
the part to the change in form. As the hoof draws
m, the parts beneath, and particularly the coffin
bone, esiDCcially the heels of that bone, diminish ;
or, after all, it is more a change of form than of
capacity. As the foot lengthens in proportion as
it narrows, so does the coffin-bone, and it is as per
fectly adjusted as it was before to the box in which
it is placed. Its laminea are in as intimate and
i:)erfect union with those of the crust as before the
hoof had begun to change. On this account it is
that many horses \^dth very con tra<3ted feet are
perfectly sound, and no horse should be rejected
merely because he has contraction. He should
undoubtedly be examined more carefully, and with
considerable suspicion ; but if he has good acfioii,
and Is otherwise imexceptionable, tliere is no rea-
son that the purchase ^iould not be made. A

85" ■

horse with coiitract€d feet, if he goes sound, is
better than another with ojien but weaK heels.

There is nothing in the appearance of the feet
which would enable us to decide when contraction
is or is not destructive to the usefulness. His man-
ner of going, and his capacity for work, must be
our guides. Lameness usuaUy accompanies the
beginning of contraction. It is the invariable at-
tendant of rapid' contraction, but it does not
always exist when the wiring m is slow, or of long
standing. Experience has taught us to believe
that contraction in the majority of cases is in con-
sequence of bad shoeing. The young and healthy
foot, before shoeing, approaching nearly to a
circle, and of which the quarters form the widest
part, and the inner quarter rather wider than the
outer. But we are sorry to say this shape is not
long preserved in many horses, and why? In
the first place the majority of smiths forge the
shoe in a way calculated to contract the foot at
every step. The shoe is turned with each side
almost straight, upper side concave, with heels
projecting outward, causing the crust of the heel
to turn under, and contraction follows. The shoe
should be turned as round as the foot will admit
of, leaving the upper side perfectly level forward
of the quarters 5 from the nail holes back to the
hq^l, on each side leave the outside the lowest, so
if you should place a rule across the heel on the
upper side of the shoe it would rest upon the
inside corner, but would not touch the outer by

80

one eiglitli of an inch. Your slioe sliould be wide
web. Do not let tlie lieels project outward, but
bring them round with the foot. But if by so
doing the inside corner of the heel should rest
against the frog, by the use of a cold chisel, the
inside corner of the heel can be removed, and all
will be clear. No doubt you see the advantage
of having a horse with contracted feet shod as
above described. A shoe of that pattern will have
a tendency to expand the quarters at every step.

Clips.

These are portions of the upper edge of the
shoe, hammered out, and turned up so as to em-
brace the lower part of the crust, which is usually
pared out a little in order to receive the clip. They
are very useful as more securely attaching the
shoe to the foot, and relieving the crust from that
stress upon the nails which would otherwise be
injurious. A clip at the toe is almost necessary
in every case, and absolutely so in the horse of
heavy draught, in order to prevent the shoe being
loosened by the pressure being thrown upon it in
the act of drawing.

The Hind ISlioe.

In forming the hind shoes it should be remem-
bered that the hind limbs are the principal instru-
ments in i^rogression, and that in every act of pro-
gression, except the walk, the toe is the point on
which the whole fi^ame of the animal turns, and

87

irom wliicli it is propelled. This part, then, should
he strengthened as much as possible, and there-
fore the hinder shoes should he clipped at each
.side as Avell as at the toe.

Xo Prevent Overrcacliiiig-, op Klicking.

Shoe your horse heavy forward — two pound
i>hoe — making the heel of the shoe twice the thick-
ness of the toe. The hind shoe made short, nai'-
row web, and very light, with toe twice the thick-
ness of the heel. Placing the heavy shoes to the
forward feet will cause him to lift his feet with
more energy ; also the heel of his forward feet.
and the toe of his hind feet, will so reverse the
action that in the majority of cases they will
travel clear.

Ittterferiiig- Avitli tlie Hind Feet.

I think we can safely say that more than half
of the horses now in use are animals that cut
their ankles, and it is a great objection. A horse
of that kiftd is rejected by many dealers, but we
argue that if they are i^roperly shod the cause can
be removed. The habit that smiths in general
have of leaving the inside of the toe twice the
'thickness of the outer side is all wrong. The shoe
should be narrow web, and very light, each side ot
the same thickness. The toe calk should be weld-
ed to the toe one-half inch inside of the centre
leading the inside of said calk the highest. Heel
»ealks the same height. By so doing, the outside

of the ^oe is one inch longer than the inside. It
is now necessary to pare the outside of the foot
the lowest. Your shoe is now made fast to the
foot with five nails, three on the outside and two
on the inner ; also tltree clips, one at the toe and
one at each side.

InterfVriiig- T^itli ForM'ard Feet.

We have known valuable horses,, and fast trot-
ting horses, to cut their ankles inside of the leg^
and quite (rften the knee — and badly, too — with
the shoe of the opposite foot, and we think the
plan we adopt a good one. The outer web of the
s^hoe should be narrow and light, the inner wide
and heavy, with the outside of the hoof pared the
lowest. When all other plans have failed this has.
prove<l effectuaL

Tlie Bar Slioe^

The bar shoe is often exceedingly useful. It ist
the continuation of the common shoe around the
heels^ and by means of it tlie pressure may be
taken off fpom: some tender part of the foot, and
thrown on aaiother, which is better 'able to bear
it; or more widely and deeply diffused over the
wliolefoot. It is resorted to in cases of corns^
pumiced feet, sand cracky cracked quarter, &.c.
In such cases the bar shoe can be used- to ad van
tage, but it should be left off as soon as. It can b&
dispensed with,.

i(nart«r Crack.

Much has been said, and various i)lans devised
by which to heal a quarter crack, such as scoring
with a knife, blistering, cutting with a sharp, hot
iron, riveting, and the like. All which, in some
cases, have proved a failure. Kow, let me say, if
you will follow my directions, you may have a
sound foot in three months. Above the cracky
and next to the hair, cut with your knife an incis-
ion one-half inch long, crosswise of the craek, and
one-eighth or one-sixteenth inch deep. Kow, from
the incision, draw a line one-quarter inch each side,
parallel with the crack, down to the shoe; with
your knife follow those lines, and cut through the
enamel or crust of the foot. To see, now, therein
a piece of the crust to be taken out ; this is done
by loosening the toj) of the piece next to the hair
with your knife. Then, with your forceps, take
hold of the piece, and pull it off; that leaves a
space of one-half inch of the crust taken out from
the hair down to the shoe. Fill the cavity with
tar, and lace on on a soft piece of leather, to keep
the tar in its place. Keep him quiet for three or
four days, and he is ready to drive. Shoe with a
bar shoe, leaving some spring to the heel, so it will
not bear hard upon the weak quarter, and in three
months you will have a sound foot. Try it.

90

TEACHING TRICKS.

As many of our scbolars may wish to know how-
to tea^h their horses tricks, we will explain how
itr may be clone. Teaching a young horse a few
tricks greatly serves to keep up an interest in him,
and makes him appear intelligent, fearless, and
affectionate. In teaching your horse to perform
tricks, it is best to give hhn one or two lessons of
half, or three-quarters of an hour each, daily.

To Come at *lie Cracic of tlie M'liip, or at tlie
^Vord. of Cominaud.

As for halter breaking, catching in pasture, and
the like.

To ITIake a Bow.

Take a pin in your r%ht hand, between the
thumb and forefinger, and stand before, but a lit-
tle to the left of your horse. Then prick him on
the bre^'st very lightly, as if a fly biting, which,to
relieve, he will bring down his head, which you
will aecept as yes, and for which you will rewai'd
him by caressing, and feeding him a little apple,
a few kernels of corn, or oats. Then re}.>e^t, and
so contiiuie until he brings the head down the mo-
ment he sees the least motion of your hand to-
wards his brea-st; or substitute some signal whicli
he will understand readilv.

91

To Say Z\o.

Stand by your horse near the shoukler^holdhig
the same pin in your hand, with which prick him
lightly on the withers, and to relieve himself he
will shake his head. You then caress him as be-
fore, and so repeating, until he will shake his head
at the least indication of your touching him with
the pin. You can train your horse so nicely iu this
way in a short time as to cause him to shake his
head, or bow, by merely tirrning the hand a little,
or moving it slightly towards him.

To t.ie I>oTni.

To teach a horse how to do this tiick quickly,
you must lay him down two or three times, or as
often as you will find it necessary to make him
understand your object. If an old horse, strap
the near foreleg up to the arm, then take your lit-
tle strap, previously used to tamper your colt with ,
and jylsLce over the back and strap around the off
fore foot, below the fetlock. Then take the bridle
rein firmly in yoiu- left hand, about eighteen inch-
es from the head, and pull upon it a little towards
you. The moment he st^ps, pull upon the strap
over the body, which will bring the horse to his
knees. Hold him quietly, at the same time talk-
ing to him gently. When he springs, pull sliarp-
ly with the left hand, and the same instant X)ull
down with the right, which will sv^anghim around
you, and prevent his rising high enough to injure
his knees by the momentum of the botly coming

92

down. By being gentle, the horse will usually lie
down in a short time. When down, treat your
horse with the greatest attention and kindness.
After holding him down ten or fifteen minutes,
permit him to get up. Repeat this lesson until he
will come down readily. Then use only the strap
over the back, which have on the near foot, and
bring him on his knees gently, when he will soon
lie down. When he will come on his knees readi-
ly by taking up the foot in this way, take up
the foot with the hand, asking him to lie down.
He will soon come down. When he will come
on his knees readily by taking up the foot
with the hand, simply stoop as if intending to
take it up, saying, " lie down, sir." Then make
him come down by a motion of the hand, and
finally by telling him to lie down. If a colt, use
but the single strap over the body at first, which
will cause him to come on his knees. In teaching
a horse to lie down — be gentle, caress, and reward
him for lying down, and your horse, comprehend-
ing what you want, and finding himself paid for
comi)liance, will soon be as anxious to get down
for the reward as vou are to have him.

To Sit Up.

When your horse will lie down readily, you can
then easily teach him to sit up like a dog. If young,
and not very heavy and strong, you can easily
prevent his getting up, without tjing down. First
cause him to lie down, having on him a common

.93

bridle, with the reins over the neck, then step be
hind him, and x)lac^ the right foot firmly upon the
tail, the reins in your hands. Then say, " get up,
sir." The horse, rising from a recumbent position^
first upon his belly, thro>YS out his forward feet,
and raises himself ui)on them, springs forward,
and raises on his hind feet. Kow, standing upon
his tail firmly, and ])ulling ba€k upon the reins
when he attemi)ts to spring forAvard and up, will
prevent his doing so, and you hold him sitting up,
Hold him firmly a few seconds, talking to him
kindly, before permitting him to rise on his feet.
Bepeat a few times, when, instead of spiinging
up, lie will sit on his haunches a short time, wliicli
you are to accept as complying with your wishes.
Always say, " sit up sir," every time, and hold him
in the position as long as he will bear, by fondling
him, and feeding him from the hand with some-
thing he likes, and your horse will learn to sit up
for you as long as you please.

But if your horse is heavy, and strong, it will
be necessary to rcvsort to other means to hold him
down at first. This you do by putting on his neck
a common collar, and causing him to lie down.
Then fosten a piece of rope, or a rein, to each hind
foot, and bring forward through the collar, and
draw up close, which will bring the hind feet well
forwaril. Then step behind, as before, and when
he attempts to rise on his hind feet he finds it im-
possible to do so, because you hold them firmly
with those straps. Kei>eat two or three time»».

04.

Vt hen it will not be necessary to resort to such
force.

To Teacli a Horse to Kiss You.

Tea^li him first to take an apple out of your
hand. Then gradually raise the hand nearer
the mouth, at each repititioUj until you re.
quire him to take it from your mouth, holding
it with the hand, telling him at the same time to
kiss you. He will soon learn to reach up his nose
to your mouth ; first to get his api>le, but finally
because commanded to do so. Simply repeat un-
til Your horse understands the trick thoroucfhlv.

To .^lftali:e Hands.

Tie a short strap, or piece of cord, to the for-
ward foot, below the fetlock. Stand directly be-
fore the horse, holding the end of this strap or
cord in your hand, then say, " shake hands, su',''
and, immediately after commanding him to do so,
pull upon the strap, which will bring his foot for-
ward, and which you are to acceiit as shaking
hands, thanking him for it by caressing and feed-
ing. And so repeat, until wlien-you make the de-
mand he will bring the foot forward, in anticipa-
tion of having it i)idled up. This is a veiy easy
trick to teach a horse. By a little practice a horse
may be easily trained to approach, make a bow,
shake hands, and follow^ like a dog, lie down, sit
up, and the like, which make him appear both po-
lite and intelligent.

95

Kever lose couragej or coiilidencc in your ability
becanse you may not bring about good result.s
easily. To accomplish anything of importance^
remember, requires no ordinary resolution, and
pei'severeiice. There would be no credit, or im-
portance, attached to mastering and managing
bad horses, if not difficult, and apparantly dan-
gerous. No duty requires more firmness of pur-
pOvSe in the control of the passions, or more fidel-
ity to the principles of firmness and truth, than
that of horsemanship.

If you would really be a successful horseman
you must never seem to forget, by your conduct,
that J ou are a man, and that your real superiority
over the animal consists in the prudent exercise
of your reasoning powers. Brute force in not
your forte, and the instant that you give way to
passion your reason must yield to the control of
blind instinct, and you at once abdicate your in
tellectual superiority over the animal. Try to
prove, by the example of your action in the per
formance of the duty, that to be a good horseman
requires higher qualifications of fitness than tliat
of the huckstering dishonesty, and depravity, so
generally evinced in the conduct of those claimiug
the distinction.

llon^' to T'cll a IIorj$e^» Ag-e.

At two years old, Colt sheds two centre nippers.
At three years old, Colt sheds the adjoining teethe
At four years old, Colt sheds outer or corner teeth.

06

At live years old, bridle tooth is up, and six year*
€ups leave two centre teeth below.

At seven years old cups leave adjoining teeth.

At eight years old cups leave outer or corner
teeth.

At nine years old, cups leave the tw<^ centre nip-
pers above.

At ten years old cui)s leave adjoining teeth.

At eleven years old,cups leave corner upper teeth.

At twelve years old, or j^ast, groove on inside
i>f briddle tooth disappears in horses. >[ares
very seldom have them, and when they do they
are no criterion to be guided by.

JToclccy Tricks.

IfoLC tt) male a horse appear like he was badly
foundered. — Take a fme wire and fasten tight
around a]ikle,between foot and pasturn,and smooth
linir over it. In twenty minutes horse will show
lame. Do not leave it on over nine hours.

To mal'e horse lame— Take a single hair from the
iail, put through the eye of a needle, lift front
fore leg, and i)ress the skin between outer and
suiddle tendon or cord, shove the needle tlirough,
cut the hak'oif on each side, and let the foot down;
horse will go lame in twenty minutes.

How to malce a horse stand hy his food^ and not
take i<^— Grease tlie front teeth, and theroof of the
mouth, with common beef tallaw, and lie will not
eat till you wash it out. Tliis in connection with
the above, will consummate a perfect founder.

97

lioic to stop a horse of the crib, or Sueliny Wind
— Saw between the upper teeth to the gums.

Row to put a young countenance on a horse —
Make a small iucisiou in the sunk place o^er the
•eye, insert the point of a goose quill, and blow it
up J close the external wound with thread, and
it is done.

To cover up the heaves- — Dr<ineh the horse with
one-fourth pound of bird shot, and he will uot
heave until they pass through.

Td mal'e a Horse appear as if he had the glanders.
Melt four oimces fresh butter, ati<l pour it into hi<?
^ar.

To distinguish between disttmper and glanders —
The discharge from the nose in distemj)er will float
•in water ; in glanders it sinks.

llotc to malxG a true pulling Horse balk — Take
tincture cantharides one ounce, and corrosive sub-
limate one drachm ; mix, and bathe his shoidder^
at night.

How to nerve a Horse that is lame — Make a sniafi
incision about half way from the knee to the joint
on the outside of the leg, and at the Ijack part of
the shin bone j you will find a small w^hite tendon
or cord j cut it off, close the external wound with
a stitch, and he will walk off on the liardes^t pave
ment, and not limp a particle.

m

TRAINING STEERS,

is TAtTGHT BY A. H. ROCKWELL,

tlo^r to Teacla Steers to Obey tlie "IVliip..

rirst get your steer into a room, or small yard^
so tiiat ke cannot run from you, tlien approach,
him gently and slowly, and if he runs do not
l)e in a hurry ; wait until he gets to the end of
The enclosure, then approach him slowly, as before..
A steer will often run from you in this way six or
eiglit times, Do not try to stop him with your
whip, or force him to think he will be at all injured, ,
until he will stand and suffer you to approach
him. As soon as this is accomplished, gently tie
a rope around his body, near the shoulders, rather
loosely. Tlien take another rope, or strap, and
gently fasten one end to the near forward foot.,
then pass the other end over the rope, or s]ircingic
beneatli the body. This rope should be sufficient-
ly long to allow him to run to the end of the en
closure without your moving, at the same time
you holding the rope firm to compel him to move
on three legs'. Then approach him again, quietly : .
he will not run off in this way but a few times
before he fully comprehends that he will not be
injured, when he Avill suffer you to approach and
handle him just as you please. ]S'ow take a short
hold of the strap with your left hand, your wliii*
in your right, which, pass over his shoulders, and
quietly touch him. upon thf' off side of his head.

99

at tlie same time saying ''- haw," and continue this
until he moves his head a little towards you.
Then stop and caress him upon and about his neck
and head. Eepeat tliis until he haws around
towards you. If he attempts to run from you, pul.l
upon the strap, saying ^'whoa," and at the same
time hitting him lightly upon the head with the
whip. As soon as he learns in this way to stop at
the word of command, and comes toward you read-
ily, take off the strax) and surcingle, and turn him
out. Then take the mate, and give him the same
course of training until you can accomplish with
him a like result. Then timi lilm out. By this
time the first steer is cool, and rested, ready to re-
ceive another lesson. Xow drive him into the en-
closure, and repeat his lessons with the whip.
Then quietly touching him gently upon the near
side of the head, at the same time saying ^^ gee,"
until he will step around from you, then caress,
and repeat until he will gee or haw readily. Then
re])eat the same lesson with his mate, which is ail
that is necessary to be done the first half day.
Then take both together in the same room, or yard
and repeat these lessons until they have a thorough
understanding of what you have done. Then
take one of them near the wall, standing by his
side hitting with your whip gently over the head,
at the same time saying ''back," until he ^ti^ step
back, for which caress. Kepeat this until he
will go back at the word readily. Then give the
other .steer the same lesson. You will find this

100

course of training will make your steers quite
obedient, and willing to liaw, gee, or back, which
will be all that you should require in one day^s
time. The next morning, or when you have time,
repeat this lesson with both together. Then place
the yoke upon them, and let them go for an hour
or two, or sufficiently long to become fully recon-
ciled to the restraint of the yoke. Then repeat
your lessons in open yard, until they fully under
stand what you require of them yoked together.
This course of training does not excite, while it
conveys the idea most clearly of what is required,
and will enable the trainer to accomplish more m
a given time than has yet been done by any other
system of managing steerft. If yoiu' steers have
learned to run away from you, which is a common
result of the ordinary method of training, put on
the rope and strap, to the foot. If hitched to a
wagon, or stone load, let your man hold the foot
strap, which run back between the steers, and the
moment they attempt to run he pulls up the feet,
while you whip over the head, which will st-op
them immediately, and will very soon break
the habit.

101

TRAINING DOGS.

The dog is the most domesticated, and (next to
the horse) the most intelligent of all animals. He
is easily taught, and if properly treated, is a faith-
fid and willing servant of man ; if misused, and
ill-treated, he is very apt to become disagreeable,
and a nuisance. The dog being a favorite of man-
kind, it becomes a duty to educate him in such a
manner that he will not only reflect credit, but be-
come useful to his master, besides being an agree-
able inmate to all members of the household. We
have given particular attention to this subject, it
being one which cannot fail to interest all readers.
We have at present two of the best trained dogs
in the country — Minnie, an Italian greyhound, and
Tasso, a black and tan. They are made to under-
stand any words of the English language, simply
by teaching them the act, and then the word from
the act. The rules wherby any person can edu-
cate a dog, are simple, and easily understood, but
'tis necessary to be patient, kind, and persevering
(the same as in all things). We give a few rules
sufficient to enable the operator to practice many
more. There are different breeds of dogs, and, of
course, as many different habits and dispositions
as breeds 5 consequently, it will require judgment
to train them to that to which they are best adapt-
ed by nature. For instance, the St. Bernard is a

102

faithful watch dog, while the setter will scent
game without training ; a terrier will catch rats,
and the greyhound takes to running from his birth.
It is necessary, therefore, in attempting to teach
the dog, to bear in mind these natural habits, be-
ing careful not to urge upon him the performance
of any duties, or tricks, which are manifestly not
in his nature to do. When selecting dogs for any
particular lesson, study this subject closely, as
undoubtedly it is the most useful lesson to ])e
taught. In educating the Shei)herd to drive, or
the watch dog, we have not given so much atten-
tion. Not being so fond of this kind as the more
intelligent class of dogs, learning them certain
tricks, &c., but we will give you the knowledge of
the above as we obtained it ft-om a celebrated dog
trainer.

Training: tlie Slieplierd to I>rive.

Take a well-bred Shepherd Dog, about six
months old, reared in some secluded i)lace, hear-
ing no words with a meaning intended to be at-
tached, except his name. He should know no-
thing of the ordinary words in use towards dogs,
and not have be^n handled by boys, or careless
persons. Take him alone with you in a large room.
The first thing to be done is to learn him to lead,
placing a strap around his neck, that cannot hurt
him, to which attach a cord six or eight feet in
leng-th ; stand stillj and hold upon the cord for a
few minutes, until he ceases struggling to get

103

;rtway. It is best to give one lesson each day dm
ing tlie wliole training. The first two lessons
should be devoted to learning him that he eannot
get away. Now, commence learning liim to come
to youj by pulling upon the roi)e, and saying,
**Here," using only the one word. In tlie use of
' (his, as well as all other words used in training
the dog, one word i« all tliat is best to try a^rt
learn him for any one act, it being so difficult to
make him understand, if yon attempt to learn him
more. When he is once fixed in the habit of mind-
i ing the word, you may then use such other word^
in connection therewith, as are pleasant to thi^
ear, as, for instance, '^come here, sir." Without
the word liere he will not know what you mean,
and the others being meaningless to him, do not
puzzle him. He will also be less liable to have
too many masters, as the one word will not be
likely to be used every time by a person unac-
. (juainted with your mode of training. Of course,
if you i^refer it, you may, in giving the lesson,
.substitute other words for those laid down ; but
we give those which are readiest to the tongue.
As the dog comes uj), whether voluntarily or not
.say "Do," and caress him. A lesson of an hour
or two, working slowly and patiently, w ill be
about right, eacli time. Proceed with it until he
will come -to you from any portion of the room, at
the word " Here." He will liave learned by this
time, probably, that the word "Do," is for him to
.understand that you are through with him, W hen

Jje perfectly realizes this, you may tbeiLprefi.^::
words, and say "tliat will do," empliasizing upoi)^
tlie word do each time. You may also now say,,
" come liere," remembering that the words het'e
and do are the only ones he obex's. He camiot
(M3nnect sentences, or be made to understand them
when once connected. You now wish to learn him
the words ''Go," and "Halt." To do this you will
plaice yourself in a portion of the room opposite to.
where the dog would naturally desire to go, (the
door, for instance, or something that would attract
liim, such as food,) say ''Go," and by coaxing and
urging him, start him along; as he gets part of
the way, say "Halt,"^ pull upon the string, stop-
ping liim, and say "Halt" again. Proceed with,
this until he has learned to obey both the words,
"Go," and "Halt." To teach those four words
named, will generally take three or four weeks. .
iS^ow learn him to bark at the word "Speak," by
holding w^ something which he wants very much,
for instance, food, when he is very hungry. You
may now let him loose, and let him run about with
you, (previously keeping him confined, but not in
a narrow place,) being watchful that he does not
stray off, nor be hurt, or handled by others. He
will soon become handy about the house. You
Iluviiig control of him through the words you have
taught him. can keep him in his place by word of
•:omnuind. For instance, if you wish him to go
out of doors, show him the door^ and say, "Gcn
ont:' The word "go" will start him, and in a lit

105

tie while he will become familiar with the word
''out.'' Give hira a fixed place to sleep and learn
him its name. If you have a dog already trained
to drive, and go behind, take him out with him to
drive in the cattle. He will learn that they will
nin from him. Say nothing to him while he is
with the other dog, unless he attempts to go to the
head of any of the cattle. This you must not^nl-
low. After two or three times take him out with-
out tlie other dog, and allow him to run after
the cattle, provided the cattle are used to be-
ing driven by dogs. It will not do to let him run
where there is a chance of his being turned upon.
If he runs them too fast, say "Steady."'^ He wilV'
not know what you mean, but, as you use words
with him only *when they mean something, he will
be apt to pay attention, and go slower. If lie
does not, say ''Halt," then "Go," steadying him
by the word "Steady" if possible. He will grad-
ually learn its meaning by its repetition. If you
have no other dog, you will let him go without,
l)eing more watchful of him, that he does not go
to the head of the cattle ; otherwise say nothing
to him, except "Go," not letting him start until he
gets the word. After a while you may proceed to
practice upon the other words he knows. If he
shows no disposition to bite at the heels, or pull
at the tail, take a rope, and tie a knot a short dis-
tance up, finger out the end, and play with him
with the rope, letting him catch hold of it, and
causing him to bark at it by using the word

106

**speak,'' When lie takes hold of the rope, say
^'Up," and wheu you wish him to let go, "Do."
Yon may then, with a slow cow, civll him up, and
taking hold of the tail, say "Up," and "Speak*" to
teach him to take hold of the tail and bark, when
you say, "Start 'em up," and "Speak to them,"
sind to let go when you say "That will do." Istbw
^icc^stom him to the word "Fetch," for sheep, and
'*Clet," for cattle^ &c., so that when you say "Go
and get the cattle," he knows you mean cattle in-
stead of sheep or horses. You may now teach
him to know the right from the left, and to obey
your orders in that respect, by taking him into a
large room, and by the motion of your right hand
try to have him go to the right, from you, saying
•i^Go,— right,^ If he does not do it, say "Halt,"
and repeat. When he does do it, say "That will
do." Continue this luitil he will go to the right at
the motion of your hand, and the word "Eight,"
then with your left hand making motions, and the
word "Left,-- you learn him the opposite. By
these motions, and an appeal to the intelligence of
tlie dog, 1)y your countenance mul eyes, you can
-<tart him for the fields in any direction you choose,
and he soon learns to do your wants with very
sittle telling. Following these rules will satisfy
you that the dog can be taught indefinitely res-
pc'cting all thing^is which pertain to his ])ecnli;ij-
?)ature.

107
Tlie ^VatcU Dog^.

For a good watch dog, select one of a breed
adapted to tlie business. There is but little that
YOU can teach such an one, as it is somewhat of a
natural trait, and any other than a natural watch
dog, however much you may labor with him, will
never be reliable. A barking dog, one that will
be noisy on the approach of intruders, is the best ;
a dog that bites, but does not bark, is only ht to
l)ut in barns, or other out-buildings nights, chain-
ing him up day-times j and then he is dangerous,
even to his keeper, as a Budden start wdl cause
him to bite any one. To learn your dog, give him
something to watch, saying, ''Take care of it,'' as
you place him near the object. He will soon learn
the word, and upon being directed to any particu-
lar thing, will faithfully guard it. AVhile learn-
ing him, allow no one but yourself to approach
him, without setting him on. You may ha^ e a
stranger approach him and tease him, you iiiging
him to drive the stranger away, and ns soon as lu-
starts, let the i)erson run, you calling the dog 1 tark.
While young, do not compel him to stay too long
at one thing, and when you go up to him and say
''That will do," feed him something. After the
manner si)oken of in the previous illustration.
whenever you wish the dog to bite, or go at any
person or thing, you will teach him tlu^ words the
reverse of what you mean, such as ''Be still."
''Get out," ''Lie down.*' You will see that a per-
son not understanding the dog, will not be vciy

lOS

apt to get near him, as he woukl naturally make
nse of those words, and they wonkl be setting him
on, instead of quieting him. To call him yourself
use such convenient word as you choose, but not
one naturally used by others. As this ingenious
use of words is about the only new idea we can
suggest, to teach Avatch dogs, the master can use
his own ingenuity to render it practical.

TUe Triolc ]>og-.

Many amusing tricks may be taught which will
exhibit in a wonderful degree the intelligence of
the dog: As we have before said, much depends
upon the breed. A dog of one peculiar breed
may be learned a certain class of tricks, while that
of another breed will be entirely different in his
characteristics. A well bred dog is hard to learn
any tiicks except those pertaining to his nature :
wltilf a mongrel cur is quite easy to learn any.
Perhaps a 8|)aniel -poodle dog is the most tracta-
ble of any, a Black-and-Tan is quite apt. We give
a few examples, sufficient to forn) a ground- work
for the intelligent operator to extend his list of
tricks at his pleasure.

Xlie First Ktep to be Xiiken.

^^'hen you are preparing the dog to receive his
lirst lesson, it is necessary to place him where you
can control him. Procure a ])\ouo of cord ten feet
long, and one-fourth of au inch iu diameter, tie a
knot in each end — one that will not slip. Takeoue

100

end, place it around the dog'ts ueck, to get the
size, then tie another knot, and again place it
around his neck, slipping 4he end with knot
through, and make fast. The proi)er way of train-
ing him is with a whip, a small riding whip. In
giving him his fii'st lesson, should he attemi)t to
run fi'om yea, (as he undoubtedly will), give him
a sudden jerk, and say "Come here,'' a-s he comes
back, talk gently, pat and caress him } that is to
show him he has done right in coming back. A
few pulls with the cord, and he will not attemi^t to
leave you.

T© Hiearu IliiR to Sit I>ot^t»,

Press your hand upon his back toward his hind
legs and say, " sit down" at the same time tapping
with your foot upon the floor. If he attempts to
lie down or draw his feet under him, coax him up,
and learn him that " sit down" is what you are
after, tapping him under the chin to keep his head
well up. He will after a few lessons, sit down at
the word and a tapping of your foot on the floor,
or with your whip, holding him by the cord, tap
him lightly on the top of the qnarters saying^ " sit
down," eaeh time a little harder until he sits dowii.
then ]}at him to show ho has done right.

To rHake a Sto\r.

When he gets handy, and will sit down at the
word, then say to him, " make a bow." This trick
you can learn him in a very short time. A^ h»'

no

.sits down, place your riglit hand on the top of bis
head, andAvith a quick move, press down saying^
'^ make a bow." By accompanying tlie Avord with
the act, quite often, each day, for a few days, he
will understand the word without tlie act, and
obey readily.

Xo I^<earii Mim to Sit X'p.

Sit him up in the corner, and with a switch, hit
him lightly under the mouth, snapping your fin-
ger and saying " sit up." As he comes down, put
him ba€k and repeat, until he remains, which he
will do in a few minutes, then say " that will do,''
and coax him down, and caress him. When he
has learned this sufficiently, set him up against a
wall and try the same thing. This will require
more patience, as he can so easily, get over to
either side. When however, he will do it, then
take him out in the centre of the floor; this will
take still longer, but if followed up, kindly, and
perse veriugly, be will learn to perform the tri(>k
at the word and the snapping of the finger.

To Staaid Up*

Take some food in your hands, and offer it to
liim, holding it well up, and say, '^ stand up." Re-
peat this until he will stand up quite readily,
holding out your imoccupied hand for him to sup-
port his fore-feet on. Gradually take away your
hand, each time, that he comes up, saying '' stand
up," Tlien take him. by the forward feet, and lift

Ill

liiin up quite hard, and say, '' stand up/^ I'ow
will soon get him so that when you lift him, ho
will straighten np and show signs of standing ;
then make the effort to learn him to stand up at
tlie word, and the holding out of your hand. You
may now combine this with the last trick, saying,
'• sit ui^/' '' stand up/' That T\ill do. These are
the first tricks he should be taught as they are the
formation for others.

To «et Into a Cliair.

This is easily done, taking your own way to
coax him into the chair, using the word " chair"
whenever you cause him to get into it. When he
becomes familiar with the word, accompanied with
a motion of the hand towards a chair, you may
use other words in connection therewith, '' go and
get into the chair." After he will do this hand}%
you may then learn liim to put his paws upon the
back of the chair, by asking him " to put them
up,'' or, saying up,'' assisting him at first. ^Vhcn
he will do it readily, you may teach him to imt
his head down upon his paws, by placing it tlieie^
and repeating the word '' down" of course cai'css
ing him each time that he complies. To ha^c him
hold up his head, tap him under the mouth antl
say, '* up" remembering to say " that Avill do,"
when you are through the trick. You may leaiii
him to jump over the chair by playluUy coaxing
bim to do so, saying, jump.

112

To :»Iakc Him Go I^ame.

Tap him with a little rod upon the hind foot say-
ing, " lame," learning him to stand and hold it
np whenever you say lame." Now coax him along,
and if he i)uts it down, hit him quite smartly on
the foot, making him. keep it up until he will go
lame, at the word -and a motion of the rod. Now
whenever you send him into the chair, as before,
?is he goes to jump down stop him, learning him
to wait for the word " do," as he comes down with
his fore-feet on the floor say, " steady," and learn
him to stop with his hind legs uj) in the chair. He
is now ready. —

To IS.1121 on lii»For^v«i*<l l^egs.

To learn him this, take hold of his hind legs,
lift them up and walk him around in a circle, and
place them in the chair saying, " round." Do this
every time you perform the trick of having him
get into the chau\ After a while take him by the
tail and lift him up, and switching his hind legs
lightly, walk him around in the same manner,
saying, " round," as before. With patiieiice and
l)erseverence he will learn to lift up his hind legs
at the motion of the whii^, and on the words " go
around," perform a circle, walli;iiig on his forward
feet, and place his hind feet in the chair; of course
the height of the chair must be adapted to the
length of the dog's legs.

To Sit on a, Ntool.

It is now very easy to learn him to *' sit down "
K>n a low stool. You mav then learn him to '' take

1.13

•a seat^' ou the stool by leading him arouud by his
forward feet, and sitting liim on the stool with hts
forward feet held ui) saying^ " seat'' you then have
him learned to go on all fours, and sit down on the
stool, and to go on his hind feet and take a sear
with his forward feet up.

To I^earu Mliu to Fiiiti Tilings.

Take something with which he is accustomed
to play, and after getting him enlivened with play,
call him up to you and blindfold him, and throw
the article a short distance from you. If the dog-
has good scent, tell him you have ^' lost" then re-
move the blindfold and he will search and find it.
Kepeat this, throwing it farther each time, until
you can throw your knife or anything whicli you
liave held in yoiir hanil, at a distance you looking
in the direction and saying, " I havelost my knife."
He will search unil he finds and brings it to you.
If the dog has not good scent, learn him to look
down at the word ^' find" and up at the word ^-up'^
doing as before. We have now given a suflicicnt
number of examples to set forth the important
julefi v>'hich govern the teaching of Dogs. By an
ObsersTtUce of these, you may teach your dog to
climb ladders, fetch things to you, carry baskets,
loll over, lie down, shut doors, and an almost iu
numerable number of tricks. To teacli tlie dog.
however, you must have perfect control over youi
temi^er, never wliip severely, never get out of ])a
Sjence,

M4

TURF CALENDER

^lora Temple, tke fastest trotting liorse in thty
world ; was sired by One Eyed Hunter ; tlie pedi
gree of her dam is not known. Flora is now twen-
ty years old, 18G5 ; is owned by A. Welcli, Esq.y
of Chestnut Hills, Philadephia 5 her best time
was made at Kalamazoo, Oetober 15th, 1859, a full
mile in 2 min. 19 3-4 sec*, which is the best time
ever made by a trotting horse. She beat Geo. M..
Patchen, on the Union Course, in 2.21 j she beat
Ethan Allen, and mate, in 2.20 1-2.

Geo. M. Patchen trotted under the saddle, on
Union Course, Nov. 21, 1859, in 2.24.

Brown Dick beat Patchen in 2.25 1-4.

Ethan Allen best time, single, was 2.25 1-2 ;
trotted with a running mate, Sept. 5, 1861, on
Fashion Course, in 2.19 3-4.

The fastest time on record, for a three year.s
old was made by Cora , in 2.37 3-4.

Gen. Butler's best time was 2.21. Dexter beat
him three straight heats, on the Fashion Course,
Sept. 7, 1865 ; 2.26 1-2, 2.24 1-2, 2.22 1-2.

Toronto Chief beat Vanderbilt, on the Fashion
Course, Sept. 9, 1865, in 2.23, 2.27, 2.27 3-4. Van
derbilt trotted one heat in 2.27 3-4.

115

The fastest running time on record, for a single
mile, was made at Cincinnati, by Legal Tender in
1 min. 44 sec. The best time ever made in Eng-
land is 1.39, made by Gladiator. It is said that
Bay Middleton ran the same mile in 1.30, but there
is no record of such time.

Brown Dick made the best time for three mile
heats, in 5.28.

Pocahontas paced a full mile in 2.17 1-2, which
is the best time on record.

The greatest performance in double harness, on
record, a 2.12 gait to road wag^n. Lady Palmer
and riatbush Mare, driven by their owner, Mr.
Bonner, taken out of his stable untrained, to a
road wagon, in public, May 10th, 1862, one mile
in 2.26 ; May 13th, two miles in 5.01 1-2, the second
quarter of the second mile in 33 seconds, being a
2.12 gait to a road wagon.

Since the TVTiting of this book Flora Temple's
time has been beaten. Dexter in his great match
against time on the fashion course, Oct. 10th, 1865,
trotted a mile under saddle, in the unparallelled
time of 2.18 1-5,

116

STABLE MANAGEMEKT.

Tliis is a very important part of our subject^
even as it regards tlie farmer, altliougli there are
comparatively few glaring errors in the treatment
of the agricultural horse; but it comes more es-
l)ecially home to the gentleman, who is too often,
and too imi)licit]y, under the guidance of an idle,
ignorant and designing groom. We will arrange
tlie most important points of geuera] management
under the following heads:

* AIR.

The breathing of pure air is necessary to the
existence and health of man and beast. It is
comparatively lately that this has been admitted
es^en in the management of our best stables. They
have been close, hot, and foul, instead of airy,
cool and ^vliolesome. The stable should be as
large, compared with the number of horses that it
is destined to contain, as circumstances will allov,'.
A stable for six horses should not be less than
thirty feet in length, and thiity 4'oet Avide, If
there is no loft above, the inside of the roof should
always be plastered in order to prevent direct cur.
rents of air and occasional drojjpings from broken
tiles. The heated and foul air should esca])e, and
cool, pure air be admitted, by elevation of the ceii_
tral tiles; or by large fjubes carried through the
roof, with caps a little above them, to prevent the
beating in of the rain ; or by gratings placed high

117

up in the walls. These latter apertures should be
as far above the horses as they cau conveniently
be plaecd, by which means all injurious draught
will be prevented. If there is a loft above the
stable, the ceiling should be plastered, in order to
prevent the foul air from penetrating to the hay
above, and injuring both its taste and its wliole-
someness 5 and no opening should be allowed above
the manger through which the hay may be thrown
into them ; for they will permit the foul air to as-
cend to the i)ro vender, and also in the act of fill-
ing the mangers, and while the horse is eagerly
gating ui^ward for his food, a grass seed may fall
into the eye," and produce considerable inflamation.
At other times, when the careless gTOom has left
open the trai)-door, a cold stream of air beats
down on the head of the horse. The stable with a
loft over it should never be less than twelve feet
liigh, and proper ventilation should be secured,
either by tubes carried through the roof, or by
gratings close to the ceiling. These gratings or
openings should be enlarged or contracted by
means of a covering or shutting, so that spring,
summer, and autumn, [the stable may possess
nearly the same temperature with the ©pen air,
<ind in winter a temj^erature of not more than ten
degrees above that of the external atmosphere.
A hot stable has, in the mind of the groom, been
connected with a glossy coat. The latter it is
thought, cannot l)e obtained without the former.
To this we reply, that in winter a thin glossy coat

118

is not very desirable. Mature gives to every
animal a warmer clothing when the cold weather
approaches. The horse, the agricultural horse,
especially, acquires a thicker and lengthened
coat, in order to defend him from the surround-
ing cold. Man puts on an additional and a
warmer covering, and his comfort is increased,
and his health improved by it. He who knows
anything of the farmer's horse, [or cares about his
enjoyment, will not object to a coat a little longer,
and a little roughened when the wintry wind blows
bleak. The coat, however, not to be so long as to
be unsightlj^, and warm clothing, even in a eool
stable, will with plenty of honest grooming, keep
the hair sufBiciently smooth and glossy to satisfy
the most fastidious.

The over-heated air of a close stable saves much
of this grooming, and therefore the idle attendant
unscrupulously sacrifices the health and safety of
the horse. When we have presently to treat of
the hair and skin of the horse this will be placed
in a somewhat different point of view. If the
stable is close, the air will not onlji be hot, but
foul. The breathing of every animal contamin-
ates; and when, in the course of the night, with
every aperture stopped, it passes again and again
through the lungs, the blood cannot undergo its
proper and healthy change ; digestion will not be
so perfectly performed, and all the functions of
life are injui^ed. Let the owner, of a valuable
horse, think of his passing twenty, or tweuty-twci

11§

^otrt of tlie twenty -four liours, in this debilitating
;^tmosphere. Nature does wonders in enabling
every animal to accommodate itself to the situa-
tion in wliicli it is placed, and the horse that lives
in the stable, even suffers less from it, than would
scarcely be conceived possible j but he does not,
;and cannot possess the power and hardihood
which he would acquire under other circumstances.
This ah' of the improperly close and heated stable
is still further contaminated by the urine and
Klung, which rapidly ferments there, and give out
stimulating and unwholesome vapors. When a
person first enters an ill-managed stable, and es-
pecially early in the morning, he is annoyed not
only by the heat of tlie confined air, but by a pun-
gent smell, resembling hartshorn^ and can he
be suri)rised at the inflamation of the eyes, and
the clironic cough, and the disease of the lungs,
by which the animal, who has been aH night shut
up in this wretched atmosphere, is often attacked ;
or if the glanders and farcy should occasionally
break out in such stables ! It has been ascer-
tained by chemical experiment that the urine of
the horse contains in it an exceedingly large quan-
tity of hartshorn -, and not only so, but that, in-
fluenced by the heat of a crowded stable, and
possibly by other decompositions tliiit are going
forward at the same time, this ammonical vapor
begins to be rapidly given out, almost immediate-
fy after the urine is voided. ^Yllen disease be-
.-gins to appear among the inhabitants of these ill-

120

Teiitilated places, is it wonderful that itslioiild rap-
idly- spread among them, and that the plague-spot
should be, as it were, placed on the door of such
a stable ? When distemper appears in spring, or
autumn, it is in very many cases to be traced to
such a i^est-house. It is peculiarly fatal there.
The horses belonging to a small establishment,
rationally treated, have it comparatively seldom,
or have it lightly; but among the inmates of a
crowded stable it is sure to display itself, and there
it is most fatal. The experience of every veterinary
surgeon, and of every large proprietor of horses,
will corroborate this statement. Every stable
should i)ossess within itself a certain degree of
ventilation. The cost of this would be trifling,
and its saving in the preservation of valuable ani-
mals may be immense. The apertures need not
be large, and the whole may be so contrived that
no direct current of air shall fall on the horse. A
genileiiiau-s stable should never be without a ther-
momeier. The temperature should seldom exceed
7^)'^ hi the summer, or sink below 40^ or 50^ in the

LITTER.

Having spoken of the vapor of hartshorn, which
is so rapidly and so plentifully given out from the
mine of the horse in a heated stable. We next
i ake into consideration the subject of litter. The
lirst caution is frequently to remove it. The early
extrication of gas shows the rapid putrifaction of
iliC urine ; and the consequence of which will be

121

rapid putriiartion of tlielittertliat iuis been moi8t-
er.ed by it. Everytliiiig hastening to (lecomi)osi-
tion slioukl be carefully removed wliere life and
liealth are to be preserved. The litter that has
been much wetted or at all softened by tiie uriiK?
and is beginning to decay, should be swept away
every morning ; the greater part of the remainder
may then be piled under the manger ; a little be-
ing left to prevent the i^ainful and injurions press-
ure of the feet, on the hard floor during the day.
The soiled and soaked portion of that which was
left should be removed at night. In the bettei-
kind of stables, however, the stalls should be
completely emptied every morning. Xo heap of
fermenting dung should be suifered to remain dur-
ing the day, in the corner, or in any part of the
stable. AVith regard to this, the directions of the
master should be peremptory. The stable should
be so contrived that the urine shall quickly run otf
and the offensive and injurions vapor from the de-
composing iiuid and the litter will thus be materi-
ally lessened, but if this is effected by means of
gutters, and a descending floor, the descent must
be barely sufficient to cause the fluid to escape, as
if the toes are kept higher than the heels, it will
lead to lameness, and is also a frequent cause of
contraction of the^ loot. Stalls of this kind cer
tainly do best for mares j but for horses we mu<]i
prefer those Avith a grating in the center, and a
slight inclination of the [floor, on every side to-
wards tbe mi<ldle, and short branch mav comnui

122

nicate with a larger drain, by means of which the
nrine may be carried off to a reservoir outside the
.stable. Traps are now contrived, and may be pro-
duced at a little expense, by means of which neith-
er any offensive smell nor current of air can pass
through the grating. Humanity and interest as
well as the appearance of the stable, should induce
the proprietor of the horse to place a moderate
quantity of litter under him during the day.

LIGHT.

This neglected branch of stable-management is
of far more consequence than is generally imagin-
ed 5 and it is particularly neglected by those tor
whom these treatises are principally designed.
The farmer's stable is frequently destitute of any
glazed window, and has only a shutter, which is
raised in warm weather and closed when the weath-
er becomes cold. When the horse is in the stable
only during a few hours in the day, this is not of
*so much consequence, with regard to horses of
slow work 5 but to carriage-horses, and hackney's,
so far, at least, as the eyes are concerned, a dark
stable is little less injurious than a foul and heated
one. In order to illustrate this, reference may be
made to the unpleasant feeling, and the utter im-
possibility of seeing distinctly, when a man sud-
denly emerges from a dark place into the full
blaze of day. The sensation of mingled pain and
giddiness is not soon forgotten ; and some minutes
pass before the eye can accommodate itself to tlie
increased light. If this were to happen every day,

123

or several times in tlie daj-, the sight would be irre-
parably injured, or i:)ossibly blindness would ensue.
Can we wonder, then, that the horse, taken from
a dark stable into a glow of light, feeling, proba-
bly, as we should do under similar circumstances,
and unable for a considerable time to see anything
around him distinctly, shoukl become a starter or
that the frequently repeated violent effect of sud-
den light should induce inflamm ation of the eye so
intense as to terminate in blindness? There is in-
deed, no doubt that horses kept in dark stables are
frequently notorious starters, and that abominable
habit has been traced to this course. If plenty of
lightis admitted, the walls of the stable and especi-
ally that portion of them Avhich is before the horse's
head must not be of too glaring a color. The color
of the stable should depend on the quantity of
light. Where much can be admitted, the walls
should be of a gray hue when darkness would
otherwise prevail, frequent whitewashing may in
some degree dissii)ate the gloom. For another
reason, it will be evident that the stable should not
possess too glaring a light 5 it is the resting-
place of the horse. The work of the farmei's
horse, indeed is confined principally to the day.
The hour of exertion having passed, the animal
returns to his stable to feed, and to repose, and
the latter is as necessary as the former in order t(»
I)repare him for renewed work. Something a])-
proaching to the dimness of twilight is requisite
to induce the animal to compose himself to sleep.

124

This lialf-iiglit more partwularly suits horses of
iieavy work. In the quietness of a dimly-lighted
stable, tliey obtain retx>se, and accumulate ile«h
and fat.

CIEOOMINCi.

Of this much need not be said to the agiicultur-
ist, since custom, and apparently without ill effect,
I»as allotted so little of the comb and brush to the
farmer's horse. The animal that is worked all day,
and turned out at night, rerpiires little more to be
done to him than to have the dirt brushed off his
limbs. Eegular grooming, by rciidering his skin
more sensible to the attraction of temi)erature,
and the inclemency of the weather, would be pre-
judicial. The horse that is altogether turned out,
needs no groonnng. The dandruff, or scruff, which
accumulates at the roots of the hair, is a provision
of initure to defend him from the wind and the
cold. It is to the stabled horse, highly fed and
little or irregularly worj^ed, tlnit grooming is of vSO
iiiuch consequence. Good rubbing with the brush,
or the curry-comb, opens tlie pores of the skin,
circulates the blood to the extremities of the body,
produces free and healtliy perspiration, and stands
in the room of exercise, ^'"o horse will carry a fine
coat ^^ itliout either unnatural heat or dressing.
They both effect the same purpose; they both in-
crease the insensible perspiration ; but the first
does it at the expense of health and strength,
while the second, at tlie same time that it produ-
ces a qlovr on the skin, and a determination of

125

blood to it, lou.ses all the energies of the fraiiU'.
It would 1)0 well for the pro])rietor of the horse if
he were to insist and see that his orders are really
obeyed, that the fine coat in which he and his
groom .so much delight, is produced by hand rub-
bing, and not by a heated stable and thick cloth-
ing, and most of all, not by stimulating or injii-
lious spices. The horse should be regularly dress-
ed everyday, in addition to the grooming tluit is
necessary after work.

When the weather will permit the Jiorse to b^
taken out.lie should never be gi'oomed in the stable ,
u.nless he is an animal of i^eculiar value or placed
for a tiijie under peculiar circumstances. Wit! i out
dwelling cm the v^-ant of cleanliness, v\hen the
scurf, and dust are brushed from the horse, lodge
in his manger, and mingle with his food, experi-
ence^ teaches, that if the cold is not too great the
animal is braced an.d invigorated to a degree tluit
cannot Ix^ attained in the stable, from being dress-
ed in the op»en air. There is no necessity, hov, -
ever, for half the punishment which many a groom
iniiicts upon the horse in the act of dressing; and
particularly (tu one whose skin is thin and sensi-
blet The curry-com.b should at all times be light-
ly ap])!ied. ^Mtli many liorses its use may be al-
most dispensed with ; and even the brush rxced
not be used very hard, on the points" of the bris-
tles so irregular, as they often are.

A soft brush, with a little more weiglit oi»thc
Jmnd will l;e eouallv effectual. Odid a 2cod deal

126

more pleasant to tlie liorse. A hair-clotb, while
it will seldom irritate, and tease, Avill be almost
siifiicient with horses that have a thin skin, and
that have not been neglected. After all it is no
slight task to dress a horse as it ought to be done.
It occupies no little time, and demands considera-
ble patience, as well as dexterity. It will be rea-
<lil3^ ascertained whether a horse has been well
dressed by rubbing him with one of the fingers.
A greasy stain w*ill detect the idleness of the
groom. Where, however, the horse is changing
his coat, both the curry-comb and brush should be
used as lightly as possible. Whoever would be
convinced of the benefit of friction to the horse's
skin, and to the horse generally, needs only to ob-
serve the effects produced by well rubbing the legs
of a tired horse. While every enlargement sub-
sides, and the painful stiffness disapix^ars, and
the legs attain their natural warmth, and become
fine, the animal is evidently and rapidly reviving ;
he attacks his food with appetite, and then quiet
ly lies down to rest.

EXERCISE.

Our observations on this important branch of
stable-management must have only a slight refer-
ence to the agricultural horse. His work is usual-
ly regular and not exhausting. He is neither pre-
disposed to disease by idleness, nor worn out by ex-
cessive exertion. He, like his master, has enough
to do to keep him in health, and not enough to
distress or injure him j on the contrary, the regii-

127

larity of his work prolongs life to in extent rarely
witnessed in the stable of the gentleman. Our
remarks on exercise, then, must have a general
hearing, or have principal reference to those per-
sons who are in middle stations of life, and who
contrive to keep a horse for business or pleasure,
but cannot aff3rd to maintain a servant for the ex-
press purpose of looking after it. The first rule
we would lay down is that every horse should
have daily exercise. The animal that, with the
usual stable feeding, stands idle for three or four
days, as is the case in many establishments, must
suffer. He is i)rG-iisi)osod to fever, or to grease,
or, worst of all, diseases of the feet ; and if, after
three or four days of inactivity, he is lidden far
and fast, he is almost sure to have inflammation
of the lungs or of the feet. A gentleman's or a
tradesman's horse suffers a great deal more from
idleness than he does from work. A stable-fed
horse should have two hoar's exercise every day,,
if he is to b3 kept free from disease. Nothing of
extraordinary, or even of ordinary labor, can be
effected on the road or in the field, without suffi-
cient and regular exercise. It is this alone which
can give energy to the system, or develop the power
of any animal. In training the trotter and the
running horse, regular exercise is the most impc r-
tant of aU considerations, however, it may be for-
gotten in the usual management of the stable.
The exercised horse will discharge his task and
sometimes a severe one, with ease and pleasure ;

128

Nvliilc the idle and neglected one will be f^uigiieil
ere lialf liis labor is accomplislied, and, if lie is
])usiied a little too for, dangerous inflamation will
ensue. How often, nevertheless, does it happen,
that the horse which has stood inactive in the sta-
l)le three or four days, is ridden or driven thirty-
or forty miles in the co'arse of a single day ! This
rest is often purposely given to prepare for extra-
exertion : — to lay in a stock of strength for the
])erformance of the task required of him, and then
the ovrner is surprised and dissatisfied if the ani-
hial becomes stiffened or seriously ill. Xothing is
so common, and so preposterous, as for a person
to buy a horse ti'oni a dealer's stable, where he
has been idly fattened for sale for many a daj-,
and immediately to give him a long drive, and then
to complain bitterly and thiidv he has been impos-
ed upon, if the animal is exhausted, before he ar-
rives atiiis destination, and is compelled to be led
jiome, suffering from violent inilamnmtion. liegu-
jar and gradually increasing exercise would have
made the same horse appear a treasure to his own-
er. Exercise should be sonu^vdiat proportioned
to the age of the horse. A young horse requires
11 fore than an old one. Kature has given to young
animals of every kind a disposition to activity, but
1 he exercise must not be violent. A great deal
depends upon the manner in which it is given.
To preserve the: temper and promote health, it
should be moderate, at least at the l)eginning and
the termination. The rapid trot or even the gal-
lop, may be resorted to in the middle of the exer-
cise, but the horse shoidd be brought in cool. There
are many other points in stable-management we
would like to mention but the size ot our litth'
volume Trill not admit of it.

129

CLOSING REMARKS.

Now dear reader, a word with you, and we are
kloiie. We have endeavored, in writing the sys-
tem, to fully explain it, so that none need go as-
tray 5 but it must be remembered, in handling wild
and vicious horses, yon have different divSi^osition.s
to contend against. Every one who understands
the true philosophy of horsemanship, knows when
we have a horse that is high mettled, wild, and
lively, we can train him to our will in a very short
time, for they are generally quick to learn, and al-
ways ready to obey. But there is another kind
that are of a stubborn or vicious disposition, and
although they are not wild, requiring no taming
in the sense that is generally understood, they are
just as ignorant as a wild horse, if not more »o,
and need to be educated just as much. And in
order to have them obey quickly, it is necessary
that they should be made to fear their masteis^
for in order to obtain perfect obedience from any
horse we must first have him fear us, for our mot-
to is, '' Fear, love, and obey," and we must have
the fulfillment of the first two, before we can ex-
pect the latter; and it is by our philosophy of
^'reating fear, love, and confidence, that we goverM

13a

to our will duj kind of a horse whatever. Theii^
in Older to take horses as we find them, or more
particuhirly if they are of a stubborn or muUsh
disposition — if he lays back his ears as you ap-
proach him, or turns his heels to kick you— he has-
not the regard or fear of man that he should have
to enable you to handle him quickly and easily..
In such cases give him a few sharp cuts with the
whip about the legs, pretty close to tlie body. It
will crack keen as it plies around his legs, and the
crack of the whi^) will effect him as much as the
stroke. Beside, one sharp cut about the legs will
affect them more than two or three over the back,
the skin or inner part of the legs, or about the
flank, being thinner and more tender than on his
back. But we do notwhip him much— just enough
to scare him. It is not because we want to hurt
thejiorse that we whi}) him, we only do it to scare
the bad disposition out of him. But whatever
you do, do quickly, sharply, and with a good deal
of force, but alwa.ys without anger. If you are
going to scare him at all, you must do it at once ;
never go into a pitched battle with your horse, and
whip him until he is mad, and will fight you. You
had better not touch him at all ; for you will es-
tablish, instead of fear, and regard, ii feeling of
resentmeuit, hatred, and ill-will. It will do him no
good, but an injury, to strike a blow, unless you
can scare him ; but if you succeed in scaring him
you can whip him without making him mad, for
fear and anger never exist together in the horse •.

131

and as soou as one is visible, you will find tliat the
other has disappeared. As soon as you have
frightened him so that he will stand up straight,
and pay some attention to you, approaeh him again
and earess him a good deal more than you have
whipped hini; then you will excite two controll-
ing passions of his nature — love and fear — and
then he will fear and love you too, and soon as he
learns what to do, he will quickly obey. With
these remarks upon the principles of our theory,
we have endeavored to teach you how to put th.em
in practice, and all of the instructions written you
may rely on as having been proven practically by
our own experiments j and knowing from expe-
rience just what obstacles we have met with in
handling bad horses, we have tried to anticipate
them for your good, and assist you in surmount-
ing them, by commencing witS the first steps tak-
en with tlie colt, and accomi)anying you through
tlie whole task of breaking'.

132

THF. OLD KNCiUSH

iVI J' ij^tei*iou.s; Iloi-.se I^^ai-riei'^

1>R, TIDBAI.L,,

Offers }iis valuable work on the Horse to
tlie citizens of this country — all comprised in this
one copy of 78 recipes. The old Doctor has liad
forty years practice in the different diseases of
the horse, and his success has induced him to of-
:^r the result of his experience to the public.

No. 1. Vistula and Foil Einl before hreakifig. —
Eowell from the bottom to the top of the swelling
with tape, wet the rowel with tincture can tharides
every third day. Move the rowels every morning-
washing them clean with soap and water. Leave
them in until the swelling has gone dov/n, then
(iraw out, and the cure is performed. Bleed one
vaiion when the operation is performed.

]^^o. 2. Aft^r Brealcing. — Rowel from the top of
the pipe down through the pipe, then bleed, and
aiLnoint the rowels with Blue Ointment every day
uatii it runs a bloody matter. This is never
known to mW.

No. 3. Blue Oinlment — Take half an ounce of
verdigris, one ounce of blue vitriol, four ounces of
ointment of rosin, one ounce spirits of turpentine.

i:i3

I^Tind all fiue, mis: well with one pound lard, and
it is fit for use. Common rosin will do if the
ointment is not convenient-
No. 4. The HoolSy or Weal' Eyes. — Eowel in
the jaw, or under the eyes, then bleed. Apply tiie
eye lotion every third day, with a feather. Move
the rowels every morning. Leave them in foi"
fifteen or twenty days ) feed on corn.

No. 5. Eye Lotion. — Take one pint of linseed
oil, add two ounces of gum camphor, one ounce of
either. Shake it wtII, and it is fit for use. This
cures all weak eyes that are curable.

No. 6. Sj^avin and Bingicorm Ointment. — Take
two ounces cantharides, one ounce gum ophor-
bonm, two ounces turpentine, one ounce tincture
of idoine, and three drachms corrosive sublimate.
Grind all fine, and mix with two pounds of lard.

No. 7. Hoof Bound. — Ha^ e horse shod with
shoes narrow at the heel. Have them made with
calks one inch long, fiaring out from bottom to
the top. Use the Hoof Ointment every third
day.

No. 8. Roof Ointment. — Take half a pound of
lard , and foiu^ ounces rosin. Heat them over a
slow fire until molted, take the pot off the. fire, add
one ounce of pulverized verdigris, stir well to pre-
vent it running over, AYhen partly cool add two
ounces turpentine. Apply it fi'om the hair down
one inch. Work tlie horse all the time.

No. 9. Big Leg. — Apply the Liquid Blister every
Ihird hour until it blisters. In three hours grease

134

the leg with linseed oil. In six days wasli it clean
with soap and water. Repeat every six days un-
til the swelling goes down. If there should be
any callous left, apply the spavin ointment.

I^To. 10. Liquid Blister. — Take half pint linseed
oil, one pint spirits turpentine, and four ounces
aqua ammonia ; shake well, and it is fit for use.
Apply every third hour until it blisters.

Ko. 11. Hoof Evil or Thrush. — Physic and bleed,
then poultice the foot with boiled turnips. Re-
new every twenty -foiu^ hours, for three times, then
apply the Blue Ointment every third day, merely
anointing the sore parts. Wash clean before ap-
plying. Keep the horse out of the mud and wet.
This will never fail to cure in four or five weeks.

No. 12. Founder. — Bleed in the neck until the
horse staggers or falls down. Turn up his feet,
and fill them with boiling lard. Give him a phy-
sic-ball, and foment his legs with hot water every
five or six hours. Give him a mash of Scalded
bran. This will cure in twenty -four hours.

No. 13. Lung Fever. — Symptoms : The horse is
taken suddenly ill, either after being taken from
the stable, or on returning to it. He gives evi-
dence of pain by looking around at his side. He
never offers to lay down j his nostrils are distend-
ed ; he breathes hard ; his chest is sore, or over
his lungs ; he connot bear you to press your hand
hard on his chest; very dry, but cannot drink.

Cure. — ^Bleed three gallons. Take one ounce
of lavender, two ounces spirits nitre, half pint wa

135

ier, drench him. Repeat every four hours until
better. Blanket him as warm as possible. Then
:api)ly the liquid blister all over the chest opposite
the lungs every third hour until it blisters. If ]ie>
is not better in six hours repeat the bleeding, and
inject with the folio wing clyster : half gallon warm
water, half pint linseed oil, and a small handful
salt. Xever physic, or he will die.

]Sro. 14. Bupon Farcy. — Symptoms: Swelled
legs, and running sores on the legs.

CuEE. — Bleed largely, then physic ; then give
clie following ball or i>ills, in forty-eight hours aftei'
the physic has operated. Take two ounces gen-
tian, and four ounces of ginger ; make this in a
paste with honey or molasses. Divide it into ten
parts, "add to each part ten grains arsenic. Roll it
in paper, and give one morning and evening, until
it physics or makes him slobber, then omit, and
give him one ounce of laudanum. Feed on green
or light food. Wash the sores clean, and apply
the Blue Ointment every other day. If there
should be any swelling left in the legs, api^ly the
general liniment every day or two.

No. 15. Water Farcy. — Symptoms: The horse is
dull and loses his appetite, and swells along the
body or chest, and between the fore legs.

Cure. — Rowel in the breast and along each side
of chest as far as the swelling goes. Leave the
rowels in until the swelling goes down. Give a
^spoonful of cleansing powders morning and night.

No. 16. 2^asal Gle^t, or running at the nose, or to

136-

dry up distemxier.— Take half a pound of alum,
half a pound of rosin, half a pound of hlue vitriol,
four ounces of ginger, and enough fenugreek to
scent ; grind all fine. Give the horse a spoonful
two or three times a day. This will cure all dis-
charges or distempers, if not glanders.

No. 17. Chronic Covr/h. — Take powdered squills
one ounce, ginger two ounces, cream tartar one
ounce, mix well, and give a spoonful each morning
and evening, in wet bran. This is good after hard
riding or driving. It cures all coughs and colds,
and will prevent the lungs from swelling.

No. 18. Cleansing Potvders. — Take of ginger two
ounces, four ounces fenugreek, one ounce black an-
timony, and two ounces rhubarb. Grind all fine,
mix it well, and it is fit for use. Give a large
spoonful morning and night. This is the best con-
dition powder ever used. It gives a good ai)petite
:^nd fine coat,. and life to the animal.

No. 19. Fit^. — Symptoms: The horse commences
Jerking his head, and falls down -, in a short time
he will get up, and is apparently well.

CuEE. — ^Give two ounces of the tincture of asa-
IVetida every morning for ten days. Tie the gum on
liis bit, and make him wear it for six or eight days,
lie will never have a fit after the first dose.

No. 20. Jaundice Yellow Water. — Symptoms:.
The hair in the mane and tail gets loose, the white
of liis eye turns yellow, and the bars of his mouth ;
ho refuses to ent, and limps in his right fore leg.
lienerallv.

137

CusE. — ^Physic, bufc never bleed; then everr
Biorniug give him one drachm of calomel in on(^
ounce of spirits of camphor, for eight or ten days,
also give him a dose of the cleansing powders ev-
ery night.. This is a sure cure.

Ino. 21. NlcMnr/ Balsam. — Take a half pound of
fresh butter, add to this one ounce oil organum.
and half an ounce tincture of iodine. IMix well.
and it is fit for use. This is used on the tail after
nicking, and on bruises, saddle galls, corks, and
all kinds of si)raius and rheumatism.

^0. 22. Thmnyfs^ or Palpitation of the Heart. —
Symptoms , The horse is almost exhausted, breath-
ing is very hard. The difference between thumps
and lung fever is the distress of the heart, which
you may hear flutter at a distance of twenty feet.

Cure. — ^Bleed largely, and it will suddeidy stop.
Dissolve one drachm of nitre and a large sx^oonfut
of salt in half a pint of water. ]>rench three timej>
every six hours. Do not work the horse for a week.

Xo. 23. Shouldey Jam, or Sweeney. — Eowel from
the top of the shoulder blade down, as aiiected-
Put in a few drops tincture cantharides every third
day. .Move the rowels every day, keepnig them
clean with soap and water. Keep them in from
twenty to thirty days, and the cure is performed.

Xo. 21. Stopimge of the Urine. — Sym])toms ; Fre-
quent attempts to urinate, looking round at hi.<
sides, lying dov, n, rolling and stretcliing.

Cure. — Take half a pound hops, three drachms
nil of camphor, grind, and mix. Make this into

X

138

tlirec pills. Give one every day, witli a dieiicli
made of a small teaspooiiM of saltpetre and two
ounces of water. This generally cures.

No. 25. Fhysic Ball. — Take tvro ounces aloes, one
ounce turpentine, and an ounce of Hour. Make into
a paste witli a few drops of w^ater, wrap in a paper,
iind give with a bailing iron.

No. 20. To Be move ]Varts. — Cut them out by the
roots, and if they bleed much, dissolve one grain
of nitrate of silver in two ounces of water, bathe,
and it will stop immediately. Tlien ai)ply the blue
ointment every day until it heals.

No. 27. Inflammation of the Kidneys. — Symx)toms:
The horse is vreak across the back, and passes
urine very often, which is very highly colored.

CuEE. — ^Bleed one gallon, then blister across the
kidneys, and give the following x>owder: Two
ounces rosin, one ounce of hellebore, one ounce
gentian. Mix, and ai>ply the general liniment.

No. 28. Stifle Sxyrains. — If it has never been out
of place, bleed two gallons, then physic, and bathe
with hot water every twenty-four hours, and ap-
ply the general liniment j will cure all cases in ten
or twenty days. Never put on a stiflje shoe.

No. 29. Loss -of Appetite. — Bleed half a gallon,
then give a fevr doses of cleansing powders; if he
lacks life, then give him a few drops of the restor-
ative liquid.

No. 30. Jxcsiorative Liquid. — This will give life to
all that is not dead. Take oil of cloves one ounce,
oil of anise one ounce, tincture cantharides one

139

ounce, tincture asafoetida two ounces, oil o1' ros<'-
uiary one ounce j sluike well and it is lit for use ;
give ten or fifteen drops in a bucket of water.

^o. 31. Hoof Liquid. — This is for contra(!ted feet
or bruises in tbe soles of the feet, or after joint
sprains : take four ounces oil of spike, four ounces
spirits turpentine, and J pint linseed oil j shake
well, and apply over the crust of the foot e\'er\
day. This will remove fever and soreness of tlie
foot, and hoof bound, but the ointment is best.

Xq. 32. General Liniment. — Take half a i)int lin-
seed oil, half pint turi)entiue, oil of origanum four
ounces; shake well, and it is fit for use. This is
for all sprains and a general liniment. It is used
in the different diseases spoken of.

Xo. 33. ^<ore Mouth or Tongue. — First take his
grain from him, then half an ounce of alum, t^^<)
drachms sugar of lead, one pint vinegar, and a
half gallon of water, open the mouth and swab it
out with this every morning and night. This will
cure in all cases in five or six days.

Xo. 3-4. Mange. — Symptoms: The liair will rub
off, and the skin break out in scabs.

CrRE. — Physic and bleed, for this is a huinor iti
the blood, then make the following ointment, and
grease well every day wherever he is aft'ected for
three or four tlays, and let him stand in the sun.
For killing lice take half pound of sulphur, two
ounces spirits turpentine, and mix well with threti
pounds of lard; do not let him get wet ; give a
few doses of the cleansing powders.

140

3vo. 35. Jo >SYo^> Mood-^li you can get hold of
lite artery or vein, tie it np. ]f not, take tlie fol-
lowing: ten gTains of nitrate of silver and four
ounces of watei, apply it to the wonnd, and it will
stop immediately. Apply this to warts after cut-
ting them out.

jS^o. .'36. — Chest Iwunder. — Symptoms: isot unlike
lung fever; Ihe horse is st^l!*, Imt has no fever in
Ins feet, very sore in his chest, inclines to stand
very vride with liis fore legs.

CiTEE. — Bleed, physic, and rowel in the breast,
then commence bathing his breast and chest with
iLot water every six houis, and blanket him -, this
will cuie, if not of too long standing.

Xo. 37. MeJcmders is a disease of the feet and
pasterns. It commences after the grease heals*
Symj^toms : The hair stands out.

CuEE. — Apply the spavin ointment every six
days for two or three times, it will run the callous
oif, their apply the blue ointment until well.

Xo. 38. JSoaj) lAniment, for si)rains and swellings.
Take J gallon of alcohol, one pint soft soap, four
ounces spirits of camphor, and four ounces spirits
tuipentine, stir over a slow fire. This is cheap,
and good when you cannot get the general liniment.

Ko. 39. OpcdeJdoc. — Take J a gallon of alcohol,
two ounces gum cami)hor, and J an ounce of rose-
inai'y. Heat this l)y setting a jar or pot on the
stove. Take pure Castile soap, shave it tliin, and
pnt in as long as the liquid will eat it. This is sure.

No. '10. Jserre and Bone (Jinimeni. — To one quart

Ul

clarified uoa-ts foot oil, add two ounces oil tiirpeu-
tiuo, four ouuces oil origanum, and one pint alco-
liol ; shake it, clean with red sanders, and strain it.

Xo. 41. Lock Jaw. — Uleed largely, and apply
chloroform to the nose until the jaws tly open, put
a gag into the mouth, and give two ouuces tiiict.
asafcBtida every six liours, and a dose of physic.
This will cure if there is any cure.

Xo. 42. ReavG Powders to Trade on. — Half a
pound of Spanish brown, and half a pound of gin-
ger ; give a teaspoonful three times a day.

Ko, 43. Gravel in the Foot. — If it is of long stand-
ing, poultice the foot with boiled turnips, or any
other drawing poultice, until it dravrs, then dress
with blue ointment a few times. If there is much
fever apply the hoof liquid for a tew times.

IsTo. 44. I?i McMngy if much swelling follows,
bleed, and use the nicking balsam every other day
on the root of the tail. Xever apply watei to tht«
tail. Let it stay up four vreeksj let the blood dry,
and rub it off, then dock, and put in the piuley?;
live or six days.

No. 45. Cure for CgUc. — Take two ouuces sweet
oil, two ounces laudanum, one pint warm water,
and (.Trench. It never fails while there is life.

2^0. 4G. Bifj Head. — One ounce oil origanum, tw(t
ounces sweet oil, tvv^o ounces aqua ammonia, two
ounces tincfiu'e cantharides, two ounces spirits tur-
pentine, and one ounce oil rosemary. Give one
spoonful saltpetre ever}'- third day; rub tlie mix-
tui*e in twice a day.

142

Ko. 47. BoU. — As mucli red precipitate as will
lie ou a ten cent i)iece -, mix with clongli,aiid make
into a pill. If oue don't relieve, repeat in an lioiir.

Fo. 48. Gravel. — Steep lialf a pound of liops in
a quart of hot water, give it as hot as the horse
can stand it.

No. 49. — To Remove the Scum from the Bye in
Twenty-four Hours. — Take five cents worth of pul-
verized lunar caustic, and mix well v^ith one
ounce of lard, and it is fft for use.

No. 50. Wealc Eyes. — One spoonM of honey,
two spoonfuls fresh butter, one spoonful black x>ep-
l>er, and the yolk of an egg. Stew it for fifteen
minutes over a slow fire, and strain through a
vvoollen cloth. Ai)ply in and above the eye.

No. 51. ^Younds. — One quart cf alcohol, one
ounce cayenne i)epper, one pint spirits turpentine.
Shake well, and it is fit lor use.

No. 52- Scratches. — Two ounces Castile soat>,two
ounces rosin, one ounce lard, two ounces copperas,
and white of an egg ; stew it for fifteen minutes,
and it is fit for use. Bind it on the part for 24
hours, then wash it well, and tl>e cure is performed.

No. 53. Sweating Liniment. — Take the yolks of
six dozen eggs, and one pint of salt ; beat them
together until it forms a paste j rub the affected
part well with the paste, leaving it from four to
six hours ; wash it off with strong salt and water,
as hot as you can i)ut it on. Then blanliet it well
' for ten hours. It cures all sprains.
N. No. 54. Dope to Trade on. — One ounce of black

^^3

antimony, iiiixed witli au ounce orcanlliarides. A
small spoonful twice a da^^ will fatten a horse \n
ten (lays to trade on.

No. uo. ToBemove Callousness hy Ahsorptlon in a
shorter time than by liniment. One ounce of alco-
hol, and one ounce of xndverized sal ammonia ;
bathe the leg every two hom\s; bind the leg vvith
straw bands from the hoof to tho topof the callous,
till a sponge with the liquid^ aud^ place it on for
twenty -four hours ; for spavin, add to this liquid
half an ounce of cantharides.

Ko. oG. Fistula after hreaking. — Take lye fron^
the small black hickory and-the roots of the prick-
ly ash, burnt together j boil down to potash j put
a small portion into the hole, and let it remain f®ur
or five days ; remove it, and put in about twenty
d!»Dps of aqua fortis.

No. 57. ^alve to heal irounds. — Take a piece oi
polk root about the size of an egg^ and two Indian
turnips ground fiue^ and stew one minute witli a
pound of iard. Put it on every third day.

No. 58. Fistula and Foil Evil before breaking or
matter is formed. — Two ounces oil of turpentine,
two ounces A^enice turpentine, tvro ounces golden
tincture, one ounce oil origanum, and half a pint
alcohol ; mix well, and apply every twenty-four
hours for three times.

No. 5t). Heaves.-— Take one quart sweet milk, add
one tablespoonfal oil of vitriol ; take four quarts ot
mash feed, wet the same Avith one half the pre-
scription ; next day give the balance. In one
week repeat the prescription ; so on for six weeks r

144

Xo. GO. For Curhs, — Take benoidide of mercury
i:hree draclims, laixl Wo ounces, mix it well; clip
The iiair close, just tlie size of the enlargement,
I'ub the ointment on with the finger. In tliree or
lour days the matter which oozes from the enlarge*
ment will form a thick scab ; soften with treshlard
and i>ick it off ; rub dry with the hand, and apply
as above. Five or six apx)lications Avill remove any
curb. For splints apply in the same manner.

^o. Gl. 2[u(l Fever and Craclced Keels. — Take
equal parts lard, gunpowder, and glass; jmlverize
the glass and powder as fine as flour, and make
into an ointment ; wash the diseased parts with
Castile soap and soft water ; rub dry, and apply
the ointment once a day till cured,

Xo. (>2. InfaUibJe cure for Bin glonc and t^ixmtu

Li<)iucl Aiuiuoiiia 1 oz., 9l};.

Rod Profipitatc 1 oz., Stii.

V» hito Pino Tuipcntiuc, J oz., 3)'(!.

Hjiauis^li Flics, 1 oz., 7t]-..

Oriftaiium Oil, 1 oz., Grh.

Iodine, 2 dracljins, 5tl.\

Corrosive SiiWiniate, 2 drachms, -itb.

Strong Mercurial OiBtment, 3.i oz., 1 ^^t.

Lard'3^oz., lioney f lb., gum foibium, 1 oz., x.'d.

The reader asks why this recipe is written i)i
iiucli a. form. It is prepared just as Avritten : 9th is
first placed in the mortar ; 8th is next, and well
mixed with 9th ; 3d is then thoroughly mixed witli
Sth and 9tli. Thus each article is applied separate
ly, and thoroughly mixed. 7tli is the next, and st)
on until your ointment is finished. This is the best
spavin and ringbone ointment known. Clip the
liair, and apply the same as for curbs; lem.ovethe

145

scale with lard, and wash with Castile soap au'd
«oft wat<3r. Eub dry, and apply again.

No. 63. Physic Ball for Horses. — Cape aloes from
six to ten drachms, Castile soai) one drachm, sph^-
its of wine one drachm, syrup to form the ball. If
mercurial physic be wanted, add from one-half a
drachm to one drachm of calomel. Previous to
physicing a horse, and during* its operation, he
should be fed on bran mashes, allowed plenty of
chilled water, and have exercise. Physic is always
useful ; it is necessary to be administered in al-
most every disease. It improves digestion, and
gives strength to the lacteals by cleansing the in-
testines and unloading the liver : and, if the ani-
mal is afterwards properly fed, will improve his
strength and condition in a remarkable degree.
Ph^ic, except in urgent cases, should be given in
the morning, and on an empty stomach ; and if re-
quired to be repeated, a week should intervene be-
tween each dose. Before giving a horse aball, see
that it is not too hard, or too large. Cattle medi-
cine is always given as a drench.

No. 64. Physic for Cattle. — Cape aloes, four
drachms to one ounce. Epsom salts, four to six
ounces, powdered ginger three drachms. Mix, and
give in a quart of gruel. For calves, one-third of -
this will be a dose.

No. 65. Tonic for Horses and Cattle. — Sulphate
of .copper one ounce to twelve drachms, white su-
gar J ounce. Mix, and divide into eight powders,
And give one or two daily in the animaPs food.

14€

^0. C6. (jordialfor Horses mid Cattle. — Powder-
ed opium one draclim, ginger powdered two
drachms, allspice powdered tliree draclims, cara-
way seeds powdered four draclims. Make into a
ball with molasses, or give as a drench in gruel.
For Gripes and Hove in Cattle^ add to the above a
teacupM of spirits or oil ; and repeat every two
hours until the animal is found to be relieved.

Ko. 67. Diuretic Ball. — Hard soap and common
turpentine each four drachms, oil of juniper twen
ty drops, powdered rosin to form the ball. For
Hrojysy, Water Farcy, Brolcen Wind, or Fehrile Dis-
eases, add to the above allspice and ginger, of each
two drachms. Make four balls, and give one morn-
ing and evening.

]N"o. QS. Diuretic Powder. — Powdered rosin and
nitre each four ounces ; mix, and di\ade into 12
parts; give one daily.

No. 69.' Alterative or Condition Powders. — Eosin
and nitre each two ounces, levigated antimony one
ounce. Mix for eight or ten doses, and give one at
night and morning. When this is to be given to
cattle, add glauber salts one pound.

No. 70. Fever Ball. — Oape aloes two ounces, ni-
tre four ounces, molasses to form a mass. Divide
into 12 balls, and give one morning and evening,
till the bowels are relaxed ; then give No. 6S or 72.

No. 71. Sedative and Worm Ball. — Powdered
white hellebore one-half drachm, linseed powdereti
one-half ounce. If necessary, make into a ball
with molasses. This ball is specific for weed, in
korses and cattle.

U7

No. 72. Anodyne Ball. — Opium one drachm.^
<!ainplior 2 di-achms, ginger powder one and a half
drachms; molasses to form a ball. Give night
and morning after the bowels are opened, in te-
tanus, or lodgaw. With the addition of powder-
ed catechu two drachms, this forms an excellent
cure for diarrhoea, or purging.

2s 0. 73. Cordial Astringent Drench, for Diarrhoea,
Purying, or Scouring. — Tinctm^e of oi)ium one-half
ounce, allspice two and a half drachms, powdered
caraways one-half ounce; catechu powders two
drachms, strong ale or gruel one pint. Give every
morning till the purging ceases. For this will
make four doses.

, Xo. 74. Blister Ointment. — Hog's lard four ounces,
oil of turpentine and Spanish flies, ' each 1 ounce ;
«iix. This ointment is strong enough for every
purpose.

Xo. 75. Boicder of Angleberries. — After cutting"
them off, when they exist in clusters, sprinkle them
daily with equal parts of muriate of ammonia and
i:>owdered savin.

No. 76. Fever Powder for Rorses, — Nitre from ^
ounce to 1 ounce, camphor and tartar emetic each
from one to two drachms ; powder and mix. T»
lye used after the bowels have been opened.

No. 77. Astringent Ball for Horses. — Opium liom
one-half to one di'achm, ginger 1 J diachms, pre-
pared chalk three drachms, flour two drachms.
Powder and make it into a ball with molasse«.

No. 78. Stomachic Purgative Ball, for thin, ill-

T4:s

conditioned Morses. — ^Vloeii 1 ^ ounce, rhubarb twct*
clracliams, calomel one draclim, ginger 1 A dracliinfc;,
oil caraway ten drops, Castile soap two dracliniH ;
molasses sufficient to make it into a ball.

E'o. 79. For Fermenting Swollen or Stocked Legs. —
Procure one pound of smartweed^ place tlie same
in an eight gallon kettle — add four gallons of soft-
water, place over a slow fire and boil down to
two gallons, strain the solution into another iron
or tin vessel, get one pound of alum, place in a
mortar and pulverize "fine, sift the alum into the
liquid, again place over the fire and stir until w^ell
dissolved. Now wind the limb tight with a hay
rope, pour one pint of the solution in at the top
of the bandage when blood warm, I'epeat every
hour for forty-eight hours. This is the best fer-
mentation used it will remove all inflamation and
swelling in two days. If there is a cut or wound
after fermenting, apply blue ointment ^o. 3 until
healed. In case of strain or bruise, apply the gen
eral linement ^o. 32.

Ko. 80. For Distemper. — Oil of origanum one
ounce, oil cedar one ounce, tincture cantharides
one ounce. Olive oil four ounces. Shake well
and bathe the throat and glands morning and eve-
ning for six days, rub in well with the hand, he
Avill throw out freely and the cure is performed,

iSTo. 81. To Remove Splint — Croton oil half an.
ounce, quick silver one drachm, clip the hair close,
ttie size of the enlargement. Shake the bottle
wpU or it will not mix, (the quicksilver being so

140

mtich heavier than the oil,) immecliately after the
bottle is well shaken take two or three drops on
the ends of your fingers and rub on the point of
the enlargement, be careful of getting it on the
other parts of the leg for you must remember it is
one of the most powerful blisters known, in six or
eight days after applying it to the enlargement,
wash off ^yith castile soap and warm water, do not
pick the bunch off, let it loosen and work off grad-
ually— after it comes out apply the blue ointment
once a day until healed.

No. 82. For Worms in Horses. — Take ten grains
of arsenic, place in a short ounce vial with mouth-
piece large, take on the point of your pocket knife
about as much as would lay on half of a three
cent piece and mix in two quarts of dampened
shorts, in two or thiee days, repeat the same, and
so on, for ten or twehe days, this recipe will ef-
fectually destroy all worms in horses.

^o. 83. The hest Spavin Preparation Known. —
Spirits turpentine, half ounce, oil origanum half
ounce, citric acid, half ounce, oil wormwood half
ounce, Spanish fly to thicken, clip the hair, scarify
and apply about the thickness of a piece of note
paper, let it remain without touching untU it stops
running, then carefully wash with soft water and
soap, let the horse remain idle for four weeks.

No. 8tl. For the Eye. — Calomel three scruples,
olive oil one ounce. BoUadonia three scruples,
bathe with an eye brush or feather once a day un-
til cured.

loO

85. For Wind{jaUs and JSoft Puffs. — Oil origanum
four ounces, oil hemlock, one ounce ; oil lavender,
one ounce, oil wormwood, two ounces, oil spike,*
one ounce, sweet oil eight ounce^ apply to parts
effected morning and evening, and rub well with
the hand.

86. For Thrush. — Poultice the foot vrith turnip
poultice for twelve hours, wash clean with warm
water, then with a stiff feather apply iodine forte
around the frog once a day for three or four days,
after which appl;^:sT)irits of salts two or tliree times.
In one week the cure is performed.

87. Hoof Hot. — Get a strong solution of white
oak bark then add equal parts of tobacco and gun-
l^owder, let it stand until you get the strength,
bathe the foot night and morning for ten days ;
then apply the hoof ointment to grow them out.

88. Heave Ecmedy. — Balsam of fir and balsam
of copeiva ecjual portions, add calomel and niag-
nesia equal parts to thicken, make into rolls the
size of yolk to an i'gg, giA'c t^^•ice a day morninj*-
and evenins,.

ir>i

T£il>le or Oontei^ts-

To Piu'chasers.
Preface.

History of Celebrated liorf«08
trained and exhibited by York
& Williams.

Morgan Tiger.

Alarm.

Oen. Mae.

Toimg Columbus.

Also, Mis-statements Corrected
by C. H. C. William.s.

General l\emarks.

First St(^i> to be taken witli a
Wild Coif.

How to Halter-break a Colt.

HoAv to Hitch u Colt in the Stall
the tirst time.

Hajidling the Colt'.s Feet.

Ho^v to Eide a Colt.

Bitting the Colt.

To get the Colt used to the Bit.

Harnessing the Colt the First
Time.

Hitchiiig him to "Wagon the
First Time.

Hitching the Oftlt in Single Har-
ness to Wagon, First Time.

Learning the Colt to Back.

Subduing the Colt.

How to Subdue Vicious Horses.

Dimensions and Use of Siu-ein-
gle.

Castrating.

How to drive runaway horses.

How to DriTe-ii Kicking Horse.

Another plan tor driving a Kick-
er in Harness.

How to break a kicker in double
Harness.

How to use a Balkv Horse.

How to Break a Halter Puller.

Another and Better Plan for
Breaking a Halter Puller.

A Runaway, Bolting, or Plung-
ing Horse.

Pawing in the Stable.

Kicking in the^Stall. "

Bad Biters.

Bad to ifarness, or CrrooiM.

Kolling in the Stall.

Oettiiig Cast in tln-> Stall.

Driving on one Ecin.

Hard I'ullors.

Carrying Tonglie Over Bit, and
Out of Mouth.

How to shoe a Horse that is Vi-
cious.

For Teachuig a horse to back, or
a Horse that is in the habit of
Bolting.

The Plan for a Breachy Horse.

How to Catch a Horse in Pasture

On Shoeing.

Clips. •

The Hind Shoe.

To Prevent Over-reaching or
Clicking.

Interferiug with the Hind feet.

Interfering with the Forward
feet.

The bar shoe.

Shoeing the trotting horse.

Quarter Cracks.
Teaching tricks.
To come at the crack of th«

whip, or word of command.
To make a bow.
To say No.
To Lie Down.
To Sit Up.

To teach a Horse to kiss You.
To shake Hands.
How to tell a horse's age.
Jockey Tricks.
Ti'aiuing Steers.
Training Dogs.

Training the Shephevdto Driye.
The Watch Dog.
The Trick Dog.
The First step with the te^itk

Dog.
To learn him to sit dow».

irjn

I'u iiMiti'u blui fo make u bow.

To learn him to tind tlaug».

'To ait up.

Turf Calender.

To dtaud up.

Stable Mahagemeut.

lo get into" a chair.

Closing Remarks.

To make him go la/).< .
To run on his forward legs

The old English horsd Fairlor

Dr.Tidball.

To sit on iX stool.

Recipea.

RECIPE^.

1. Vistula and Poll Evil before

44. Nicking.

hreakiug.

45. Cure for Colic.

'J. After breaking.

46. Big Head.

3. Blue Ointment.

47. Botts.

-i. Hooks, or Weak Eye^j.

4«. Gravel.

5. Eye Lotion.

♦9. To Remove Scum from Eve

6. S}>avin «fe Eing"worm Oiatm't

.3.3. Weak Eves.

7 Hoof Boinid.

51. Wounds'.'

8. Hoof Oiutment.

52. Scratches.

9. BiiT Lee.

53. Sweating Linimeni..

ii). Liquid 151ister.

5i.. Dope to Trade On.

11. Hoof Evil, or Thrush.

55. To Remove Calious^esa.

J:.!. Founr-r,

56. Fistula after Breaking.

'•-. A.\u^ 'j rcr.

57. Salve 'to Heal Woifada.

14. Bi.tii':i V.acy.

58, Fistula and Poll Evil.

15. ^Vat!■l■ i'arcY.

59. Heaves,

IG. NfsalGleety

60. For Curbs.

17. Chronic Cough.

61. Mud Fever & cracked heeli.

18. Cleansing Powdero.

Bj. Cure ibr Ringbone & Soavin

19. Pits.

63. Physic Balls.

20. Jaundice Yellow Water.

64. Physic for Cattle.

21. Nicking Balsam.

65. Toiiic for Horses & Cattlo.

22. Thumps, or Palpitation of

66. Cordial " "

the Heart.

67. Diuretic Ball.

23. Shoulder Jam or Sweney.

68. Diuretic Powd^s.

69. Condition Powlers.

94. Stoppage of the Urine.
25. Physic Ball.

70. Fever Ball.

26. To Remove Warta.

71. Sedative and Worm Ball.

27. Inflammation of ELindneys.

72. Anodyne Ball.

28. Stifle Sprains.

73. Cordial a.stringent drench.

29. Loss of Appetite.

74. Blister Ointment.

30. liestorative Liquid.

75. Powder of Angloberries.

31. Hoof Liquid.

76. Fever powder for Horses.

32. General Liniment.

77. Astringent ball for Horses.

33. Sore Mouth or Tongue.

78. Stomach Purg^ve ball.

34. Mange.

79. For fermenting swollen log».

35. To Stop Blood.

80. For Distemper.

36. Chest Founder.

81! To Remove Splints.

37. Melanders.

82. For Worms in Horses.

38. Soap Linement.

83. Spavin Preparation.

39. Opedildoc.

84. For the Eye.

40. Heave and Bone Ointment.

85. For windgaUs and soft puff*.

41. Lockjaw.

86. Thrush.

42. Heave Powders to Ti-ade on.

87. Hoof Rot.

48. Gravel in the Foot.

88, Hottv© Remedy.

1

/