How to make the garden pay

GIFT OF

?, DEPT,

How to Make
the

Garden
Pay

By

/.£s' -
. Greiner

Published by

WM. HENRY MAULE

Philadelphia

1890

Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1890, by

WM. HENRY MATJLE,
in the office of the librarian of Congress at Washington.

Prefatory Remarks

By the Publisher.

A work on gardening, up to the times and fully explaining
all modern methods, has long been needed. Several years ago
I started the rough outline of a treatise on this subject, but
owing to my time being so largely taken up with my varied
business interests, I found it impossible to finish it ; and to tell
the truth I did not feel competent to handle the subject as it
deserved. At this stage of the proceedings my friend,
Mr. T. Greiner, offered to take a hand, and for a year or more he
has been busy writing the following pages, which I take pleasure
in presenting to the public as the very best and most practical
work ever written for the benefit of the American vegetable
gardener.

I am confident it will prove the stepping-stone to successful
gardening for many thousands who are now unacquainted with
this, the noblest calling on earth ; while I know it will give many
profitable common-sense ideas to those who are even now high
up in the profession.

Yours very truly,

WM. HENRY MAULE.

-. ,

INDEX.

Acme, Harrow 42

Ammonia, Sulphate of ... 38

Anise 140

Ants 91

Aphis 91

Aquaculture, Cole's . . . 88

Artichoke, Globe 140

Artichoke, Jerusalem .... 141

Asparagus 142-146

Asparagus Beetle 92

Asparagus Buncher .... 145

Basil, Sweet 147

Bean, Weevil , 93

Beans, Bush 147

Beans, Pole 150

Beet, Mangel and Sugar . . 156

Beets 154

Birds, Injury by 103

Boll Worm 95

Borage 160

Bordeaux Mixture 105

Borecole, or Kale 204

Boy Help .-...' 133

Broccoli 160

Brussels Sprouts 161

Cabbage for Early Market . 161
Cabbage Maggot (see Onion

Fly) 98

Cabbage, Plusia 93

Cabbage, Wintering .... 164

Cabbage Worm 93

Cabbages, Late 163

Caraway 170

Cardoon 169

Carrots 170

Catnip 173

Cauliflower 173

Celeriac 187

Celery, Blanching 178

Celery Bleachers . . . . 125, 180

Celery, Growing plants ... 175

Celery Planting 177

Celery, Southern method . . 183

Celery, Storing 180

Celery, Turnip-rooted .... 187

Celery, Varieties 185

Celery Worm 95

Chervil, Turnip-rooted ... 187

Chicory 188

Chives 188

Cold Frames, How made . . 49

Cold Frames, Use of . . , . 51

Colewort, or Collard .... 1 88

Collard, or Colewort .... 188

Coriander 189

Corn, Pop 193

Corn Salad 189

Corn, Sweet 189

Corn, Sweet Varieties .... 192

Corn Worm 95

Cotton-seed Meal as Fertilizer 39

Cress, or Pepper-grass . . . 193

Cropping Close 116

Cucumber 194

Cucumber Beetle ...... 95

Cucumbers, Under glass . . 71

Cultivation vs. Drought ... 130

Cutaway Harrow 42

Cut Worms ^

Index. — 5

Dandelion 197

Dibbers 43

Dill 197

Distances of Planting and

Thinning . 53

Drainage 83

Draining Tools 84

Drought, Precautions against 128

Egg Plant 198

Endive 199

Fennel 200

Fertilizers, Application of . . 36

Fertilizers, Commercial ... 34

Fertilizers for Quick Action . 40

Fertilizers, Sowing by Hand . 36

Fetticus 189

Fire Hot-beds, Plans .... 64

Firming Board 58

Firming the Roots in Plants . 124

Flats for Hot-beds 60

Flats, Soil for 61

Flea Beetle 97

Forcing Pit, Amateur .... 82

Forcing House, Cold .... 67

Forcing House, Cost of ... 69

Forcing House, Crops in . . 70

Forcing Pit, Heating .... 75

Forcing Pit, Plan of .... 74

Forcing Pits, Simple .... 73

Forcing Vegetables, Profits of 72

Frost, Precautions against . . 130

Fungus Diseases of Plants . 104

Garlic

Germination, Principles of

Gourds

Grading Products . . . .
Greenhouse, Amateur . .

200
109

200
29
82

Greenhouses 73

Grubs, White 98

Hand Cultivator 45

Hand Weeders 119

Harrows 42

Hired Help 133

Hot-bed Heating 66

Hot-beds, Fire 62

Hot-beds, How Made .... 57

Hot-beds, Location for ... 56

Home Gardening 1 1

Home Garden, Profits of . . 14

Horehound 202

Horse Hoes 47

Horse Radish 202

Hyssop 204

Implements 41

Insect Foes ........ 90

Insect Powders 94

Insect Preventives 91

Insects, Rotation for .... 90

Irrigation 87

Kale or Borecole 204

Kitchen Garden, Arrangement

of Beds 21

Kitchen Garden, Plan of . 20-22
Kitchen Garden, Selection of

Site 19

Kohl-Rabi 205

Lavender 206

Leek 2o6

Lettuce 207

Lettuce, Mildew 106

Manure, Composting , . . . 32
Manures for Garden .... 31
Manure, Stable 32

6 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Marjoram, Sweet 210

Markers 43

Market Gardening and Truck

Farming 16

Marketing, Hints in .... 28
Market Gardening : Require-
ments of Success ... 25
Market Gardening : Soil and

Location 24

Martynia 211

Mats, Straw 60

May Beetle 98

Meeker Harrow 42

Melon Leaf Blight .... 106

Melon, Musk 211

Melon, Water 214

Mint 218

Moles, Trapping ...... 103

Monthly Memoranda .... 135

Muck, Fertilizers for .... 39

Mushroom 218

Mustard 219

Nasturtium 219

Nitrate of Soda 38

Nitrates 37

Nitrogen in Fertilizers ... 35

Novelties, Testing 114

Okra 220

Onion 220

Onion Fly 98

Onion Growing. A Novel

Method 226

Onion Set Harvester .... 45

Onion Sets, Growing .... 221

Onions for Market 222

Onions, Growing Bunch . . 222

Onions, Varieties 227

Oyster Plant 251

Parsley 228

Parsley Worm 99

Parsnip 229

Peanut 230

Pea Weevil 100

Peas 231

Pennyroyal 236

Pepper 234

Peppergrass or Pepper ... 193

Peppermint 236

Pit for Wintering Vegetables 160

Plant Box in Window ... 81

Plant Lice 91

Plant Protectors 125

Planting, Deep and Shallow . 127
Planting Spindling Plants . . 126
Plants, Growing Early ... 80
Plants, Starting Early in Hot-
Bed 58

Plowing, Sample of Faulty . 41

Potash for Mucky Soil ... 39

Potato Beetle 100

Potato, Sweet 244

Potatoes, Early Crops . . . 239

Potatoes, Field Culture . . . 240

Potatoes, Garden Culture . . 239

Potatoes, Harvesting .... 242

Potatoes, Soil and Manure . 237

Potatoes, Varieties 243

Potatoes, White 237

Poultry Manure 38

Preliminary Remarks of the

Author 9

Protecting Plants, Devices of 131

Pruning Plants 125

Puddling 124

Pumpkin 246

Putty Bulb, Improved ... 50

Index.

Radish 246

Radishes Under Glass ... 71

Radishes, Varieties 247

Rats, How to Destroy .... 103

Rhubarb 250

Rosemary 250

Rotation 116

Rue 251

Rutabagas 262

Sage 251

Salsify 251

Savory, Summer ..... 252

Savory, Winter 252

Scorzonera 252

Sea Kale 252

Seed Drills 44

Seeds on Commission .... 108

Seeds, Vitality of 112

Shallot ... 253

Shutters for Hot-Beds ... 59

Smoothing Harrow 42

Snails . . 101

Soils, Water Holding Capacity

of 129

Sorrel 253

Sowing by Hand 1 1 1

Sowing in Hard Soil .... no

Sowing with Drill no

Spinach 253

Spinach Under Glass .... 70

Sprinkler, Vine and Plant . . 101

Squash 255

Squash Vine Borer 102

Squash Vine, Layered . . . 102
Strawberry Blossoms, Perfect

and Imperfect 267

Strawberry Culture 264

Strawberry in Home Garden 270

Strawberry Insects and Dis-
eases 271

Strawberry Plants, Quality of 266
Strawberry, Varieties .... 272
Strawberries, Fancy .... 265
Strawberries, Manuring . . . 265
Strawberries, Planting . . . 268
Strawberries, Winter Protec-
tion 270

Sub-Irrigation 88

Sulphate of Copper .... 104

Thinning Plants 121

Thyme 257

Tiles, Laying 85

Tomato 258

Tomato Enemies 259

Tomato Rot ........ 105

Tomato, Winter Forcing . . 258
Tomatoes Under Glass ... 71

Transplanting 124

Trellis for Lima Beans ... 151

Turnips' 261

Tweezers for Killing Bugs . .102

Underdraining 83

Underdraining, Advantages of 86

Vegetable House 26

Vitality of Seeds 112

Water Cress 193

Water Heater, Base-Burning 82

Watering Cold Frames ... 54

Weeding by Hand 119

Weeds, How Managed t . . 118

Wheel-Hoes 45

Wire Worm 102

Wood Ashes 40

Wood Ashes Holding Moisture 1 29

Woodchucks, Destroying . . 103

PRELIMINARY REMARKS

BY THE AUTHOR.

ARDENING, in the minds of average people, is a
dreadful combination in its requirements of skill
and unceasing drudgery. Many, especially
farmers, doubt their ability to acquire the one
without giving more time and thought than they
can afford to devote to the garden, and fear the
other. Hence home gardening is often at a
discount. To disabuse the minds of the masses
of this only too common error, to convince people in rural
districts, and in the suburbs of cities, that gardening in reality is
a very strong combination of pleasure, health and profit, and to
point out the ways and means how to relieve the task of all
semblance of drudgery — that is one of the aims, and perhaps the
chief one, of this volume.

We have no reason to complain of lack of literature on the
subject of gardening at present. Every agricultural paper of the
day has a Horticultural Department, more or less prominent, and
often conducted by good practical men ; and some good monthlies
are almost exclusively devoted to horticulture, the only gap
existing now being a periodical devoted exclusively to vegetable
gardening — a gap which still remains unfilled, less for want of
enterprise on the part of publishers than for lack of sufficient
support on the part of the masses who have as yet not awakened
to the importance of the subject.

Our present rate of progress in the Art of Gardening is a
most rapid one. The methods have changed, and are changing
every day, decidedly in the direction and with the tendency of
cheapening the cost of production, lessening hand labor, and
making gardening more profitable and more pleasant. While
the gardener thus cannot with safety neglect to grasp the
opportunities which the publication of horticultural periodicals
offer to him for keeping himself informed about the progress we
are making, and the methods employed by the most successful
gardeners of the period, on the other hand he needs a guide
giving minute instructions in every department, a guide which
he can consult in an emergency, and from which he can learn
the very latest " cioss-cuts " to success ; a guide pointing out how
different the task of raising garden stuff is, or might be made,

(9)

io — How to Make the Garden Pay.

from old-time and old-style gardening ; how the gardener can
elevate himself above the slave-work of former days, and make
his labors light and pleasant. Knowledge is power. The former
servant of the soil can and should make himself

MASTER OF THE SITUATION.

While in the following pages I shall attempt to teach the
whole of the art, in the aspects that have been revealed to me
during long years of practice, study and experiment, and propose
to conform these instructions with the needs of the new beginner,
both in kitchen and market gardening, I am quite certain that
even the experienced horticulturist can find new truths and
valuable suggestions in it. and it will pay all — novice and expert
— to look these pages over carefully. Any one of my readers
who thus far has remained in the old ruts, let him turn over a
new leaf and try the newer ways that I point out ; for gardening,
like life, is what you yourself make of it — a paradise of pleasure
or a veritable sheol of drudgery. You have the decision in your
own hands. You may leisurely accompany your visitors through
the well-kept grounds that are beaming with thrifty, sparkling
vegetation, as your own countenance is beaming with pleasure
and satisfaction, and that is as free from weeds as your face is
free from care ; or you may crawl through the beds on hands and
knees, piling up stacks of weeds, with a face sour and distorted
in hatred of yourself and the life you are leading. My instruc-
tions, if faithfully followed, will insure you the former conditions,
and save you from the curse of the latter.

I am not dealing with flowers in this work ; hence shall not
attempt to use flowery language. We have to do with plain
substantial things, matter-of-fact conditions, and simple truths.
In these pages a plain every-day farmer and gardener, not a
" Professor of Horticulture," speaks to plain every-day people,
and the language used will correspond with the condition of
writer and reader, plain, practical, common-sense, without useless
flourishes and poetic ornamentation. Let the kind reader look
for beauty and poetry in the garden itself.

From these explanations I think you will readily under-
stand the aim and the scope of this work ; and I only hope it
will aid in making gardening more popular, and a more prolific
source of pleasure and profit to many.

It still remains to be said that the work was composed on
the suggestion of Mr. Wm. Henry Maule, of Philadelphia, who
has undertaken its publication, and if the reader receives any
benefit from its perusal, he is indebted to him in the first place —
more than even to the author.

T. GREINER.
AUTUMN, 1889.

CHAPTER I.

HOME GARDENING.

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, HEALTH, PROFIT AND MORALITY.
" Man shall not live by bread alone."

OW I pity the people who from choice or necessity
are confirmed eaters of hog, and the murderous
monotony of whose scrofulous diet is not broken
or offset by the gratifying changes which the
home garden affords. How I pity the sad-eyed
house-wife with the daily questions on her mind
"What shall I cook for breakfast, what for din-
ner, and what for supper?" with nothing but
the pork barrel, the flour chest and the potato bin from which to
draw material. How I pity the mother whose children are
crying for fruit and vegetables, and who is compelled to hand
them — worse than a stone — a piece of salt meat. And above all,
how I pity the children — the blessed children with their natural
craving for the luscious fruits and the crisp vegetables of the
garden, ever yearning for them as the deer is for salt, or the fam-
ished traveler in the desert for water — but their desire never to be
satisfied, unless they steal the articles that their nature urgently
demands from the gardens of more fortunate neighbors.

With the opportunities that the vast territory of the States,
with its thirty acres of land, six of them arable, to each inhabi-
tant, affords to its people, there is no need of many families
depriving themselves of garden privileges, and there is not the
slightest excuse for people in the rural districts to do without
them.

The physician, the lawyer, the preacher, the book-keeper,
the bank clerk — in short all people whose life occupation confines
them to study or office for a large part of the day, and who for
this reason are in danger of waxing tender and sensitive like hot-
house plants — will find the gratification of the greatest need of
their lives in a little garden of their own, namely, contact with
nature, unadulterated air, relaxation and recreation, pleasure,
health and ruggedness, not to speak of the more substantial and
more immediate results : freshly-plucked berries (not the stale
fruit of the market stands, in the first or more advanced stages
of decay — in other words, half-rotten), crisp lettuce and radishes

12 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

(not the wilted stuff of the dealer), peas and beans, with the
morning dew still on them, and melons in all their perfection,
freshness and lusciousness. With people of this class the
question of profit may have little weight ; but the home-garden
affords a combination of pleasure and health which nobody, and
be he a millionaire, can well afford to overlook or ignore. The
greatest luxuries of the garden cannot be bought with mere
money.

For the hard-working mechanic, on the other hand, who
passes so many hours daily in the dust-laden, gas-impregnated
atmosphere of the shop, the point of profit enters more largely
into this question, with that of recreation in open air, and plea-
surable contact with nature still prominent. The garden need
only be small, for much manual exercise in not often desirable,
although as it comes in a different way from that of the shop,
resting the muscles already tired, and giving exercise to those not
called in operation by the regular shop work (thus serving to
produce the natural balance of the life forces and muscles in the
same way as garden work served to establish the equilibrium
between the mental and physical functions of the office man),
the work of the garden may only come as a pleasant change to
the mechanic, and not at all appear tiresome. His good spouse,
less occupied with household duties than the farmer's wife, will
also find a needed change from indoor life and kitchen routine in
the fragrant atmosphere of the home garden, and the manual
labor for both should not be feared, for an abundant supply of
superior vegetables can be produced on a small piece of ground,
if proper tools and methods are used.

With the farmer the question of raising vegetables is chiefly
one of profit, although other points are not unimportant. Many
farmers who till plenty of good land concentrate all their efforts
upon the production of wheat, corn, oats, wool, cattle or other
so-called " money crops," and pay little or no attention to the
home garden. So we have the astonishing and deplorable fact
that a majority of American farmers have no garden worthy to
be called a "family garden," unless so named because it is entirely
given into the care of the already over-worked farmer's wife and
other members of the family, especially of the half-grown boys,
if they in true appreciation of the good things to be had in
compensation, consent to spend an extra working hour now and
then in hoeing and pulling weeds. Outraged nature, unappeased
hunger for vegetable food often makes them submit without
grumbling to the lesser outrage of imposing an extra amount of
work on their young shoulders.

Fried Pork, fried potatoes, poor bread from poorly ground
flour, lardy pies, and rich cakes — these, with hardly a variation,
are the chief articles of food for thousands of farmer families.

Home Gardening — 13

Can you draw health from a pork barrel ? No more than you
can gather grapes from a thorn bush.

Many a farmer having sown a half acre or so of Black-Eye
Marrowfat or Canadian Field peas, from which his family may
have an abundant supply of green peas for a whole week, and
given them the privilege to help themselves to all the roasting
ears they may desire from the corn field (half a mile away) for
another whole week, is self-satisfied with his generosity, and
boasts that his full duty is done. According to statistics taken
in Illinois in 1888, only seventeen per cent, of the farmers had
the luxury of a strawberry patch. Think of this. Only one
boy in every six knew what it was to pluck the luscious fruit
from the vine, and eat to his heart's content! Without the
stimulating, cooling and cheering effect of fruit and vegetable
diet, what wonder that the blood of so many becomes sluggish
and laden with impurities; what wonder the stomach revolts at
the excess of grease, and becomes nauseated from want of
change ; what wonder the race degenerates, dyspepsia, scrofula,
and similar afflictions are becoming alarmingly frequent and
general, while the concocters and venders of patent quack medi-
cines are making fortunes ! What wonder the sons leave the
farm, and rush to the city, and the daughters have no desire to
sell themselves into new bondage and deprivations by marrying
farmers! Boy nature (and girl nature either) will not long sub-
mit to the daily farm routine of

" All work and no play
All pork and no pay."

Even the dullest kind of a Jack will remonstrate against and
resent this treatment. I have been a boy once, and I have
learned the irresistible attraction that luscious strawberries,
raspberries, gooseberries, currants, plums, pears, nuts, etc., have
for young people — and old ones too, for that matter. Nature
only claims her rights, and will not be outraged with impunity.
I have learned the charms hidden, in crisp lettuce, radishes, green
peas, and the like, in spring when the human internal machinery
is clogged with a winter's excess of animal food.

There is nothing in this wide world, that with just and fair
treatment otherwise will keep the farmer's boys and girls content
with rural life, and make them appreciate the great natural
advantages of their situation as does a good home garden and a
bountiful supply of good fruits, and nothing that will bring the
bloom and happy smile on the good wife's face as the assistance
she will receive from the same source in solving the problem
how to provide the three daily meals to the satisfaction of all.

I have already alluded to the moral side of the question.
The half-starved, lean-faced street gamin standing in front of the

14 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

baker's show window, and longingly contemplating the loaves,
pies, cakes and other dainties displayed in tempting array before
his eyes, is not an uncommon sight, and it has often filled my
inmost soul with pity. Imagine the youngster with an intense
longing for fruit and vegetables peeking through the picket
fence which divides his brute father's possessions from the
garden of his neighbor whose fortunate children he can watch
as they are gathering strawberries, or pulling crisp radishes in
joy and glee. There is the luscious and coveted fruit almost
within his reach, and temptingly displayed. Will you wonder
if the boy, the first chance he gets to do so unobserved, removes
a picket, and crawls into what to him is paradise beyond, and
helps himself to what really is his due ? If the father refuses to
grow these things in his garden, and has " no money to spare for
such luxuries," the boy will have no scruples to take surreptitiously
what is so temptingly put before him. Average human nature
is not built that way, to be strong enough against such odds.
You cannot extract purity from glittering temptation, or morality
from undue restriction, no more than health from the pork barrel.
The man who willfully and needlessly deprives his family of the
privileges of a good vegetable garden fails in one of his fore-
most duties. He cannot possibly be a good husband, nor a
good father, and he certainly is not a good Christian /

Neither does he deserve to be called a good manager ; for
the question of profit also enters in this combination. Self-
interest is a strong motive power. Here I wish I were able to
convince every farmer in this glorious country of the great truth
that an acre of vegetable or fruit garden, properly taken care of,
will be the most profitable acre on the farm , a fact as undeniable
as it is important, and one that will bear the most rigid
investigation.

The amount of " green stuff" that can be produced on a
single acre, well tilled, in a single summer, is simply incredible
— wagon loads upon wagon loads; and there need not be a
single meal from early spring until winter that is not made
more cheerful, more palatable, more wholesome, and altogether
more enjoyable by the presence of some good dishes from the
garden, not to say anything about the canned tomatoes, peas,
berries and the crisp stalks of celery, etc., during the winter
months. I and my family live almost exclusively on the
product of garden and poultry yard during the entire summer,
and we enjoy pretty good health generally. No meat bills to
pay, no nausea caused by greasy food, no dyspepsia ! Think of
sixty meals with big plates of strawberries, and sixty more with
raspberries and blackberries! Think of the wholesome dishes of
asparagus, of the young onions, radishes, the various salads,
the green peas and beans, the pickles and cucumbers, the

Home Gardening — 15

tomatoes, squashes, melons, etc. ! And all this practically with-
out expense, at least, without cash outlay. There is plenty of
good manure in the barn-yard; horses stand in the stable more
or less unused during the gardening season, and the needed
labor can also be had in an emergency. At the same time few
farmers will have difficulty to sell or trade off the surplus to
advantage. The village blacksmith may take part if not all of his
pay in good vegetables. The wagon maker, the carpenter, the
storekeeper, the physician, the banker — all of them need vege-
tables, and often are glad to take what good things you have to
offer in exchange for money, goods, or services. If the working
forces on the farm are insufficient, it will often be advisable to
reduce the area of wheat or oats, and grow an acre of garden
stuff instead; for the same work devoted to the garden will pay
you 500 per cent, profit above that realized from grain culture.

CHAPTER II.

MARKET GARDENING AND TRUCK FARMING.

GARDENING FOR PROFIT ONLY.
" To produce is one thing, to sell another."

)ONEY — and money alone — is the object of the
market gardener ; and the considerations of
pleasure, health and morality are necessarily
subordinate to that of profit. Business, not
pleasure — that is gardening for the man who
tries to support himself and family by growing
vegetables for market. To be successful it
often requires a rare combination of skill and
experience, with a thorough understanding of the wants of his
available market, and considerable tact, if not shrewdness, in the
sale of articles produced. It is no business for the careless, the
lazy, or the stupid.

Neither is it a royal road to fortune, and I feel it my duty to
dispel the cherished delusions of people who wish to engage in
market gardening as an easy and sure way of making a comfort-
able living. Before me is a letter received some time ago from
a " preacher of the gospel," 35 years of age,who having been
compelled to resign his position on account of throat affliction,
has hit upon the idea of growing garden stuff for market.

" Is it possible," he asks, " to make a living on three acres
of ground, 115 miles from Philadelphia? Soil good, and in town,
near railroad station. I am happiest when I am hard at work,
and oh ! I love to work in the soil ! This alone gives me renewed
vigor, and a degree of health. Yet I am not willing to become
a market boy, and I cannot peddle out what I raise off the soil."
Here, evidently, we have met with a wrong conception of
market gardening ; but it is a somewhat common one. I know
of localities where three acres of good ground well-managed
would afford quite a respectable living to a small family, with a
market right at the door, and grocers in the near town willing to
take almost any good garden produce brought them at fair
prices. Advantage might often be taken of a local demand for
certain productions, as berries, onions, celery, etc., and such
articles grown on a larger scale, for sale to retailers, thus avoiding
the " peddling " feature. But kid-glove and silk-hat gardening
(16)

Market Gardening and Truck Farming — 17

will under no consideration fit into successful market gardening
or truck farming; " barter and trade " is one of the essentials of
the business anywhere, and the grower must be in readiness, if
an emergency arises, to take hold and become merchant or
peddler. This feature is an indispensable part of the business in
most cases.

Gardening for money requires unceasing attention, close
and thorough management, considerable hard labor, and often
more or less exposure to the vicissitudes and inclemencies of the
seasons. Nevertheless it is true that the majority of the profes-
sion make altogether too much work of it, especially by neglect-
ing to make use of the newer improved implements of tillage.
The hand hoe is yet left to play a by far too prominent part in
garden, culture, and the advantages of the wheel-hoe are not yet
recognized and made use of as they deserve.

There was a time when even the rudest methods combined
with hard work insured to the market gardener near large cities a
good income. But competition has grown with the demand, and
with cheapened and increased production prices have gradually
declined until now they are far below what only a few years ago
growers would have considered mere cost of production. It is
not so many years since the main crop of strawberries sold at 25
cents per quart; and when the price first dropped down to 20
cents, the cry went forth that "Strawberry growing does not
pay." Then thousands of growers abandoned the business in
disgust. At present, strawberries are grown at 6 and 8 cents per
quart in many localities, and people are satisfied with the profits.
So with vegetables. We have learned to produce much cheaper
than formerly, and we can afford to produce and sell at figures
which did not cover first cost ten or twenty years ago, and yet
realize a fair profit. Hence people who continue to grow garden
crops in the old laborious and unsatisfactory ways, and with old-
style implements, who produce inferior vegetables and fruits at
old-time cost, cannot successfully meet the competition of their
progressive brethren. This is simply a question of the "survival
of the fittest; " and the fittest is the man who by taking advan-
tage of the latest labor-saving methods and devices manages to
raise the best produce at the smallest cost, thus preserving or
even widening the narrow margin of profit which at the present
time characterizes all legitimate branches of business. The spade
must give way to the plow ; the rake, and often cultivator also, to
the harrow ; hand and fingers in sowing seeds to the drill ; the
hand hoe to the wheel-hoe, etc. These changes are imperative
and unavoidable, if the business is to be made profitable. The
grower who has learned to produce most cheaply and can offer
the earliest or best articles in his line, is the one who succeeds ;
and efforts to excel must be made continuously to prevent

i8 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

getting left in this race. This requires the exercise of thought,
study — in short of brains as well as of muscle. Excellence will
have its reward ; but he who neglects a single point, who allows
himself to be excelled by others, is not likely to receive a prize.
Special vegetable crops are often grown on a large scale in
localities especially adapted to their cultivation, or having special
market facilities for such crops. So we have the celery fields of
Kalamazoo, Mich., the onion patches of Wethersfield, Conn., and
Danvers, Mass., and other places, the cauliflower gardens of Long
Island, the tomato fields of New Jersey, the melon patches of
Virginia, etc. To produce is often much easier than to sell the
product at a profit, and it is not safe to engage in a business of
this kind on an extensive scale, or invest much money in it,
unless a local demand is assured for the produced articles.
Wagon and carloads of good vegetables are yearly thrown away
for want of chance to sell them in time at an acceptable price.
Where the enterprise is carried on in colonies, however, there is
always a local market ; for the centre of production is also the
centre of demand.

CHAPTER III.

FARMERS' KITCHEN GARDEN.

SELECTION OF LOCALITY AND ARRANGEMENT OF BEDS.
"Well begun— half done."

HE home garden in a majority of cases is a fixed
affair, and no choice is left as to the selection
of site. While the condition of soil, its fertility,
convenient lay and proper slope, are questions of
no mean import, they are almost always second-
ary to the point of nearness to the house. The
garden may be filled with good things of the
season, but if half a mile from the house, com-
pelling the over-worked and hurried house-wife to tramp such a
distance every time she wants a supply of vegetables fresh from
the garden, the cheering presence of young onions, radishes,
lettuce, tomatoes, egg plants, and other vegetables will be missed
by the family at many a meal that might have been more palatable
and more wholesome by the vegetable addition and by the
change otherwise. What good are the choicest things in our
possession if we cannot make ready use of them ?

The condition of many a home garden seems sufHcienti
excuse for hiding it from sight. The best location for the garden
is in a prominent place where it will crowd itself upon constant
observation from the house. If well kept, it is one of the greatest
ornaments to the premises', and a source of everlasting admira-
tion ; if neglected and left to grow up in weeds, it will be a shame
to the owner, an ever present accuser — a sort of conscience —
and loudly calling for attention. A good garden is a sort of
summer resort, to which the owner can take his visitors, and
show them about with excusable pride ; an inducement for an
after-dinner or after-supper walk, affording opportunities for a few
touches of improvement, for pulling up some stray weeds, or for
the destruction of injurious insects, when thus encountered,
for watching with pleasurable interest the growth and develop-
ment of the things that are " new and curious." Nearness to
the house means nearness to your thoughts and affections ; better
care and closer attention ; more enjoyable and diversified meals ;
increased pleasure, health and happiness for the whole family.
Nearness to the house also increases the chances for convenient

(19)

20— How to Make the Garden Pay.

WEST

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Farmer's Kitchen Garden — 21

and prompt utilization of house slops, washing suds, etc., in the
garden, where they will add to the productiveness of the soil,
and may aid in doing away with the stagnant pools, rank sink
drains and offensive odors found near the kitchen door of many
people, and endangering their health and lives.

Concerning composition, state of fertility and slope of the
ground, there is in many cases little latitude for choice. People
have often to take such as they find, and try to make the best of
it. A rich, warm sandy loam, naturally drained, should always
be given the preference, and if slightly sloping to the south,
south-east or east, all the better. If deficient in drainage,
thorough drainage must be provided ; if too heavy and cold,
applications of sand, coal ashes, sandy loam and plenty of stable
manure will make it lighter and warmer ; if too sandy, the addi-
tion of clay will improve it. Peat and other vegetable matter in
a state of decay will often correct either extreme, and good
compost will ameliorate any soil, both in point of fertility and
mechanical texture. It tends to make clay soil porous and
sandy soil retentive.

The old-style gardens, as a rule, are not up to our modern
ideas as to size. Having in a measure discarded the use of
spade, and particularly that of rake and hand hoe, and substituted
horse-power and machinery for hand labor and hand implements,
we need room to work in with convenience and pleasure. The
farmer has no excuse to stick to his little corner lot. Throw
down the old fences, and enclose an acre or even two, in a field
long and narrow if possible ; then arrange it somewhat as shown
on opposite page. The whole field should be free from trees,
stumps, boulders and other obstructions, and enclosed by a tight
hedge or substantial fence. Neither pigs, hens nor dogs are
wanted in a garden.

Commencing on one of the long sides we might have a row
of grapes, selecting varieties that are known to do well in that
locality, and training them to a suitable trellis or over an arbor ;
next a row of gooseberries and currants ; then a row or more
each of red and black raspberries and blackberries, and one of
asparagus, with a dozen or more rhubarb plants at one end, and
next a few rows of strawberries. Now we come to the real
(vegetable) garden, and this may be arranged as indicated in
diagram, or in any other order according to the fancy or conven-
ience of the gardener. The arrangement of the vegetable garden
proper in this fashion gives abundance of opportunity for rotation,
and the various vegetables may be shifted about as circumstances
demand, and the location of each changed from year to year.
The adoption of this plan gives us long rows which are easily
and cheaply kept under perfect tillage by horse and cultivator,
adjusting width of the latter to suit width of row. The .narrow

22 — How to Make the Garden Pay.
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Farmer's Kitchen Garden — 23

rows at north side alone are to be cultivated by hand, using one
of the modern wheel-hoes, a work also greatly facilitated by the
length and small number of rows, as it is the turning that
requires valuable time and effort.

For a number of years I have practised a plan differing from
the preceding, and I find it superior in many respects. The fruit
patch is entirely separate from the vegetable garden, and will
need no description here. The diagram on opposite page shows
the arrangement and general plan of garden.

One of its chief advantages is the easy access it affords to
all the different kinds of vegetables, especially to the close-
planted, and most frequently visited ones, lettuce, onions,
radishes, carrots, beets, etc., and its only disadvantage the neces-
sity of turning with horse and cultivator in the field and not at
the fence near the highway. This is not a serious matter, how-
ever, as a strip eight feet wide is left next the path at the foot of
the narrow rows, and including it, without planting except with
a single row of squashes or other running vines at the end of the
long rows. This arrangement gives every opportunity for turn-
ing without damage to growing crops, and the empty space will
be occupied by running vines by the time that cultivation by
horse power has to cease. Nor is there any want of chance for
rotation, and the order of both the small stuff and the crops in
the larger section can be changed to suit the requirements of
the case from year to year.

When, as it often happens with me, beans, or early cabbages,
peppers, egg-plants, etc., are planted in the upper part, in rows
two and a-half feet apart, with radishes between each two rows,
the cultivator can here be run right through the whole length of
the garden after the radishes have all been gathered. At the end
of rows, facing the path, short numbered stakes may be driven
in the ground; and if these are not over eight inches high, the
double wheel-hoe can be run right over them without being inter-
fered with in doing its work properly. When sowing seed or
setting plants, the varieties and numbers are carefully noted
down, especially in testing new sorts. The opportunity which
this affords to compare the behavior of varieties, and to speak of
them intelligently, greatly enhances the pleasure of making and
taking care of a garden.

Where there is no lack of land, it may be well to make the
garden of double size, so that each one-half (divided lengthwise)
may be renewed and rendered clean from time to time by seeding
to clover and mowing once or twice before it is cropped again
with vegetables. Or one-half may be planted to potatoes, corn,
or tomatoes, or other field crops, and the two halves used alter-
nately for garden purposes. The great advantage of a thorough
system of rotation can hardly be pointed out too often.

CHAPTER IV.

REQUIREMENTS OF SUCCESS IN MARKET
GARDENING.

SELECTION OF SOIL AND LOCATION.
" Look before you leap."

HILE the home gardener must take the cir-
cumstances as he finds them, and try to make
the most of opportunities ready-made for
him, the prospective gardener " for profit
only " cannot safely do so. He must select
the most favorable conditions, or run the risk
of seeing his proud business structure tumble
down, and his high anticipations wrecked at
the very start. It will not do for him to select a location most
favorable to the production of perfect vegetables, if such loca-
tion has no market for them. Of the two considerations, that of
market opportunity stands first. Before locating anywhere with
the intent of growing garden vegetables for money, the near
markets need the closest study. The difficulty often encountered
of putting stuff already produced on a paying market, and to
turn it into cash, is the chief cause of failure with many other-
wise good gardeners. Vast quantities of choice vegetables are
left to spoil every season simply for want of a local demand for
them. The great cities, as a rule, are well supplied with the pro-
ducts of the garden by growers near by, and the competition
there is large, often ruinous, at least to the extravagant hopes of
the shipper ; hence the dependence on distant city markets to be
reached through the instrumentality of express companies and
railroads as carriers, is not often justified except in case of the
early southern products, and of such vegetables as tomatoes,
onions, sweet potatoes, melons and others that are grown in the
farm garden (truck farm) on an extensive scale.

The growers of vegetables for market may be divided into
three classes, as follows, viz. :

First. — The southern truck farmer who grows early stuff for
northern markets. His location must be selected with especial
regard to his railroad connections with the principal city markets,
nearness to station, and the conditions favorable to earliness and

(24)

Requirements of Success in Market Gardening. — 25

perfect development of vegetables, such as rich and warm soil,
southern exposure, etc.

Second. — The market gardener near the large cities who
raises garden stuff in day-time, and draws his products to the
city, and city stable manure back to the farm, during the night,
leading a life of unceasing toil, in perpetual fight with competi-
tion, but receiving good pay for skillful management.

Third. — The local gardener whose aim it is to fill a compara-
tively small demand in his immediate neighborhood. Sometimes
he gives his goods to grocers in near towns to sell on commis-
sion ; or sells to them to retail to their customers ; or he loads
up his wagon and peddles his crops directly to the consumer.
He has the advantage of cheap land, cheap help, and few expenses
generally, and if he is a good salesman as well as a good
gardener, he may do well.

Localities near summer resorts and watering places afford
special chances. Many of the gardeners near such places, as for
instance along the beach in New Jersey, in the vicinity of Long
Branch, have what might be called a " soft snap " so far as mar-
keting is concerned. The demand for choice vegetables here is
reasonably large at any time, but reaches enormous proportions
when city people have taken up their abode amongst them, and
prices often rise to excessive figures just at a time when the
season is naturally most favorable to the production of these
articles. The established gardens in these sections have their
regular customers, and little trouble in disposing of good pro-
duce. The truckers or peddlers who run their vegetable wagons
during the bathing season, supplying their regular customers
(the cottagers, boarding houses and hotels), make their daily calls
at the gardens, and load their wagons, paying high prices for
produce for which in turn they charge excessive, often outrageous
rates to the wealthy, city-bred consumer. Here money is plenty,
easily earned, and easily spent. Some of these people run
gardens and truck wagons in combination ; they supply the con-
sumer directly, charging for their own produce the high retail
price of the truckers ; and their profit for two months often keeps
them in easy circumstances for the whole year. Others sell both
to the regular truckers and to the grocers in the near towns ; but
there is seldom much difficulty encountered by the good sales-
man to sell what once is produced. Here, as might be expected,
land is high, often $500 to $1,000 per acre ; but considering the
market advantages it is much cheaper at that figure than the
$10 an acre clay lands of Virginia colonies, or the $30 an acre
white sand plains of Central or South Jersey.

As nearness to the house or kitchen (in this case the centre
of demand) is one of the first considerations in the location of the
home garden, so is nearness to a market with good steady

26 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

demand the chief point of importance for every market gardener.
It makes considerable difference whether produce has to be hauled
to market, and manure back to the farm, one mile or ten. Often
a sudden scarcity of a certain article in the market, caused by
delayed shipments, or by other chances, can at once be taken
advantage of by the near grower who is enabled to rush the
demanded article to market at short notice, and to benefit by the
higher prices, while the gardener living at a greater distance
cannot do as well. This advantage alone will outweigh even a
considerable difference in price or rent of land.

The next consideration, and one of scarcely less importance,
is the suitability of the land. The soil should be a warm, sandy
loam, level or slightly sloping to the south or south-east, free
from obstruction, trees, etc., and in a good state of cultivation.

Vegetable House, Windmill and Hotbeds.

Want of fertility can be remedied in time, and is not as grave a
defect as faulty composition of soil would be. Nor should the
soil be excessively weedy, although this defect can also be
remedied by perseverance and painstaking, and at some expense.
Natural drainage is desirable, but if not perfect, should be made
so by thorough underdraining. A piece of drained muck-land
is generally a valuable addition to the upland property.

Plenty of water is one of the chief needs of the market
gardener, and the careful calculator will have an eye on the chance
of supply when selecting his location. A running stream, an
artesian well, or a pond in close proximity to the beds and
buildings, so situated that it can be readily utilized for the various
purposes of watering, irrigating, washing vegetables, etc., is
likely to be worth hundreds of dollars to the owner. If such a

Requirements of Success in Market Gardening. — 27

convenience is not in existence, the next best thing is a good
large cistern near the vegetable house. This latter may be a
cheaply constructed affair, of any desired or needed size, with
frost-proof cellar for storing vegetables, a washing department
above, with tank ; also a storage room for tools, seeds and other
equipments. A good well is a necessary convenience, and will
supply water when the cistern fails.

The degree of success in gardening depends largely on the
abundance and steadiness of the water supply ; for the liquid
element is needed in vast quantities, and must be furnished at
just the time when the crops require it. Hand sprinklers and
force pumps are yet the common means of distributing water
over the often large area of the beds in many market gardens,
but through the employment of a modern windmill, tanks and
rubber hose in their capacities as forcing power, storage room,
and carrier, respectively, this originally tedious job can be made
comparatively pleasant and inexpensive.

This chapter, in my estimation, would not be complete with-
out an earnest word of warning to the new beginner. I only
follow the plain path of duty when I point out the dangers of
engaging in this (as in any other) business on a larger scale than
experience and available capital will warrant. Profits are easiry
figured out on paper, and often allure the novice into a feeling of
unjustified confidence and security. Debts are contracted, to be
paid with the prospective profits ; but such profits do not often
materialize. It is safe to commence on five acres of good land
paid for, and with implements and conveniences also paid for. It
is very risky to start in on twenty acres, mortgaged for half their
value, and to work with tools obtained on credit. The former plan
admits of a gradual increase of the business on a safe foundation,
and as increasing experience and means warrant. The latter
plan leads the gardener into the meshes of the usurer — the foolish
fly into the spider's web — and to ultimate ruin. Step by step
you will rise from the foot of the ladder to the height of lasting
prosperity ; but the pretender who surreptitiously usurps a high
position will come to a sudden, and oerhaos deserved fall.

CHAPTER V.

HINTS IN MARKETING.

SECRETS OF SUCCESS EXPOSED.
" Doing the right thing at the right time."

HE all-important secret might be told in a few
words : " Cater to the demands of the market."
Produce just such articles as the market calls for,
and offer them for sale at just such times as
people want to buy. The more favorable the
combination of circumstances of your own
selection — market, locality, soil, and methods —
the brighter are the chances of success. Start
in modestly to fill a want already existing. Try to have your
vegetables in the market a few days, or even a few hours
sooner than your competitor. Take to market only the
choicest, and keep the poorer stuff out of your customer's sight,
thus making a reputation for yourself and your wares, and your
success will be at once assured and permanent. Study the pecu-
liarities of your market, and try to hit the periodically appearing
demands for certain articles. The best at the right time brings
the profits.

It is hardly ever advisable to attempt educating people's
tastes. Give your customers exactly what they want ; and only
after having gained a firm footing among them, or gained a
reputation for yourself, would it be wise to begin, cautiously, the
work of creating a demand for better things by exposing them
in tempting display to people's attention. There is a rule of
fashion in markets as well as in attire. When a certain kind of
vegetable or fruit is popular in a certain market, it will sell
quicker and at higher prices than even a better kind with which
people are not acquainted. The process of educating people's
taste is always an exceedingly slow one; and the gardener
should not make the mistake of growing any thing new and
superior, but as yet unknown to customers, in the vain hope of
gaining an advantage over his competitors, unless the superiority
lies in outside attractiveness — large size, fine color, perfect shape,
etc. — and thus appeals to the sight. High quality alone, without
" catchy " appearance, is at a discount in the open markets.

Uniformity is one of the chief essentials in making produce
attractive and salable. Particular pains should be taken to have
(28)

Hints in Marketing. — 29

all the vegetables in one bunch or package — the radishes, beets,
turnips, celery, or whatever they may be — as near like each
other as careful selection can make them. Have everything
clean and attractive. If the articles to be marketed are of uneven
size, grade them with greatest care, and put the larger ones in

Radishes, Properly Graded.

Radishes, Not Graded.

one package, and the smaller ones in another. Careful sorting
and packing is just as necessary as skillful growing.

Regularity of supply is still another point of importance.
No matter how good and how abundant your produce may be,

Strawberries, Mixed and Graded.

it will not be appreciated by your customers unless you furnish
them regularly just what they want, and when they want it. This
inspires confidence and reliance upon you, and insures permanent
patronage even at higher prices than customers would be willing
to give to the man who offers his wares spasmodically, at irregular
intervals, or at rare occasions.

It is well worth taking to heart what one of South Jersey's
most successful market gardeners says on this subject:

" If you are catering to the appetites of the town's people,
and desire to extend your list of vegetables, plant but sparingly

3O — How to Make the Garden Pay.

of such varieties as have not yet come into general use, until the
demand for them is created.

" Even to-day there are hundreds of families in every large
town, and thousands of farmers upon whose table spinach, kale,
cauliflower, salsify, and a long list of other vegetables, both tooth-
some and healthful, has never appeared. To encourage this
trade takes time, patience, and no little outlay in labor and cash.

" It has been, and always will be, that each market has its
favorites who can sell more at the same price than other growers.
If to dispose of your load to-day, you sacrifice the price you
would be sure of to-morrow; if to-morrow you find yourself
compelled to make further concessions in order to sell your
products, you may be sure the necessity for making concessions
will continue from day to day, until the prices of all goods in
your line are depressed below the line of profit to yourself and
all other gardeners ; and you will have lost the esteem and good-
will of your competitors without being better thought of by
dealers and customers.

" Retailers like to deal with producers whose word is as
good as their bond. They desire to be sure that in every basket,
box, or barrel the uniform goodness of the contents reaches clear
to the bottom. They like men who, when taking orders to-day
for to-morrow, can be depended upon to live up to their engage-
ments ; whose vegetables are always washed clean, tied tightly,
arranged neatly, and whose call can be counted upon with never-
failing certainty every week-day, and under all conditions of
weather."

CHAPTER VI.

MANURES FOR THE GARDEN.

I. STABLE MANURE AND HOW TO MANAGE IT.
" Of nothing, nothing comes."

HE market gardener can produce in a single season
enormous, almost incredible quantities of vege-
tables on an acre of ground when systematically
and continuously cropped. The quality of most
of this produce depends on its succulence and
tenderness, and its money value is greatly influ-
enced by its size and earliness, all of which
features are the result of rapid, thrifty growth,
which in turn, is only made possible by the presence of an
abundance of available plant food in the soil, especially of the
nitrogenous element, which is the chief promoter of succulent
growth, in bulbous root, leaf, and stalk.

The prices which the gardener obtains for his products,
compared with those realized by the farmer for grain, hay,
potatoes, etc., are such that he can much better afford to use
large quantities of manure, and especially pay out money for
them, than the farmer with whom it is only too often the query
whether he can profitably use any kind of manure which he has
to buy. There is considerable doubt in my mind that wheat,
oats, corn, and products of this sort can be raised at present
market rates with profits worth speaking of when manure,
whether yard or concentrated, has to be bought at the figures
usually paid by the market gardener. The latter, as a rule, finds
that the more and the better manure he uses, whether bought or
home-made, from stable or factory, the larger will be his profits.
Manure, good manure, and plenty of it — that is the corner stone
of successful market gardening.

This assertion is not likely to be disputed. But there are
economical or methodical ways of using it, and there are wasteful
ones. It is not always easy to determine, in which shape, in
what quantities, and to what crops manure can be applied so it
will do the most good. The importance of the subject demands
our earnest consideration, deep thought and study; but we
should look at the question entirely dispassionate, without

(30

32 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

preconceived preferences in favor of one manure, or prejudices
against the other. There are gardeners who claim every thing
for stable manure, and find no good in " fertilizers ; " and there
are others who put their whole reliance in the latter. As in
most other cases we will find the " golden mean " by far the
safest course to pursue.

Stable manure is yet the favorite article with the masses of
gardeners. If reasonably free from weed-seeds and properly
handled, it is a perfectly safe and reliable fertilizer, and when made
from grain-fed animals, as most likely the case in city stables,
well worth $2 to $2.50 per ton, if it can be drawn without incurring
additional expense, or at a time when no other work is pressing.
One ton of ordinary mixed fresh farm or stable manure contains
about 8 Ibs. of nitrogen, 10 Ibs. of potash and 4 Ibs. of phosphoric
acid. At current retail rates for these plant-foods, their
chemical value would be about as follows, viz. :

8 Ibs. nitrogen at 1 8 cents, $i 44

10 " potash at 5 cents, 50

4 " phosphoric acid at 8 cents, 32

Total, $2 26

When thoroughly rotted this manure contains a still larger
percentage of the plant foods, hence is not only more valuable
for that reason but also on account of its readiness for applica-
tion, and immediate availability. When we further consider the
mechanical effect of this manure, the opening and loosening of
the soil, allowing air and warmth to enter it more freely — we
will not be apt to underrate its value.

A different thing it would be, if in addition to first cost, we
were obliged to incur much extra expense in hauling it a consid-
erable distance ; if we were to employ teams, and hire men. I
think I would use stable manure in moderate quantities if the
aggregate cost amounted to $2.50, and very sparingly at a higher
figure. The manure account is a big item with the rank and file of
gardeners near the cities who use from 50 to 100 tons of stable
manure to the acre annually. As we shall see later on, the
application of even the smaller amount is excessive, and often a
sinful and preventable waste.

COMPOSTING MANURE. — Raw manure is not in condition for
the market gardener's purposes, except in rare cases. It may do
for sweet corn, and comes in play for heating hot-beds, or forcing
melons ; but for general garden crops it must be composted, and
made as fine as possible. There need be no loss of fertilizing
materials or elements if the compost heap is properly made
as shown in illustration next page. Pile it up in a square heap
with perpendicular sides and flat top, four or five feet high, and

Manures for the Garden. — 33

as wide and long as may be required. Let it come to a heat,
and fork the mass over from time to .time until it is in the
desired condition. It takes time and labor, adding to the origi-
nal cost, and in deciding on the price he can afford to pay for
raw manure originally, the gardener will have to take this feature
in consideration.

These heaps may be made during autumn and early winter
right on the arable land, and the material will generally be ready
to be spread upon the soil where wanted, when the time for
planting it with spring crops has arrived. It is absolutely neces-
sary that these heaps be of considerable depth, not less than four
feet, in order to prevent the rain-water from leaching clear
through, and washing away valuable food elements.

Composting Stable Manure.

Some farmers and gardeners utilize pig power in composting
manure. The raw material is piled into an enclosed yard having
a solid clay bottom, and here it is continuously worked over by
a drove of pigs in their search for shelled corn which is scattered
over the manure once or twice a day. It may make good manure,
but I think very lightly of this method of raising pork. The
compost heap, while in process of construction, is the most appro-
priate dumping place for vegetable rubbish of all sorts, the car-
casses of animals (larger ones cut in pieces), house and kitchen
slops, and other waste materials. Refuse matter of this kind
often adds greatly to the value and effectiveness of the compost.

For general garden crops this manure, when in the right
condition (well rotted), is applied broadcast and thoroughly
mixed all through the soil, generally by plowing under in lap
furrow style, and by thorough harrowing.
3

CHAPTER VII.

MANURES FOR THE GARDEN.

II. COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS THEIR VALUE AND USE.

" Prove all things; hold fast that which is good."

|OMMERCIAL fertilizers are coming more and
more in general use with market gardeners, and
are now quite extensively substituted for stable
manure — and that not without good reason. If
we examine a good average high-grade com-
mercial fertilizer, analyzing 5 per cent, available
nitrogen, 6 per cent phosphoric acid, and 8 per
cent, potash, we will find that one ton of it con-
tains, besides less valuable ingredients :

icolbs. nitrogen, at 1 8 cents, - $1800

1 20 " phosphoric acid, at 8 cents, - 9 60

1 60 " potash, at 5 cents, - 8 oo

Total, - $35 60

Such a fertilizer probably retails at $40 or $42 per ton, and
is fully worth it. All this large amount of plant food, and per-
haps one-half more, can be drawn in a single load, while it will
take ten such loads of stable manure to supply the same amount
of nitrogen (and that in a far less available condition), sixteen
such loads to supply the same amount of potash, and thirty to
supply the same amount of phosphoric acid. In an average,
therefore, the substitution of the commercial fertilizer for barn-
yard manure will save 14-15 of the labor and expense in hauling
and in application, besides all the additional trouble and labor
of composting.

In a further comparison of the two manures we come to the
following results : A moderately liberal application of compost
requires 50 tons to the acre. This means the application of 400
Ibs. of nitrogen, 500 Ibs. of potash, and 200 Ibs. of phosphoric
acid, at a costof $100 to $125, not taking in consideration the large
expense of handling and applying it.

Men most liberal in the use of commercial fertilizers apply,
and recommend to use, one ton per acre, at a cost of less than
(34)

Manures for the Garden. — 35

$50, expense of handling and application included. Many after
having tried a one-half ton application find fault if the results do
not give as good a showing as a $150 application of compost.
This is not common sense.

Soils that have been utilized for the production of garden
crops for many years, and are yet filled with humus from previous
applications of compost, usually contain considerable potash and
phosphoric acid, which elements of plant food, in these heavy
dressings of yard manure, are always applied greatly in excess of
the needs of crops, and permitted to accumulate in the soil. The
nitrogen alone, however, is taken up by the plants, or leached
out of the soil as fast as rendered available. When we consider
that nitrogen is the chief generator of stalk and leaf, and promoter
of rapid and succulent growth, and that the conversion of unvail-
able forms of nitrogen into available nitrates (the so-called
nitrification) is exceedingly slow in the early (cooler) part of
spring, we have the explanation of the effectiveness of a manure
application holding 400 Ibs. of the most important substance of
plant nutriment, and of the often comparatively meagre results
obtained from a dressing of fertilizer having only one-quarter or
less of that quantity of nitrogen. Bone meal, although rich in
phosphoric acid, which is not superabundant in stable manure,
and therefore frequently used in alternation with the former, gen-
erally with excellent results, has the same scanty supply of
nitrogen as the high-grade complete fertilizers. This nitrogen in
commercial fertilizers, however, is generally in a more readily
available form than that in yard manure ; and, all points taken in
consideration, a rotation of the several manures should be adopted
as it has proved far preferable to the exclusive or continued use
of one or the other of them alone. The heavy tax that the
demands of the crops impose upon the gardener can often be
materially lightened in this way.

Some of our best gardeners go much further. They use
what stable manure is made on the place, and put all the money
to be expended for manures in complete commercial fertilizers,
and nitrates (spoken of in next chapter). I have grown excellent
vegetables of all kinds on poor soil by this system of feeding the
crops ; but I miss the quickening and loosening effect upon the
soil which is found in an occasional ration of compost. Hence
I prefer the rotation system of manuring, and if for some reason
it should become necessary or unavoidable to use commercial
fertilizers uninterruptedly, I would at least grow and plow under
an occasional green crop, such as clover, black peas or southern
cow beans, peas, weeds, etc., merely for the purpose of adding
decaying vegetable matter to the soil, and thus opening it to the
ingress of air and moisture. Its state of concentration fits the
commercial fertilizer especially for application to growing crops,

36 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

or to second and succeeding crops planted between rows of
vegetables still standing.

This question has still another aspect. Market gardeners
obtain the bulk of their manure supply from city stables, and the
demand for the article has raised its price to a figure forcing the
shrewd gardener to consider whether he can afford to use the
article or not. FTere we have a case where supply is not influenced
by demand. Nearly the same quantity of manure would be pro-
duced in cities whether it is disposed of at $2.00, or at 10 cents
a load, or whether the owner were compelled to pay some one
$i.ooaload to take it off the premises. The -competition of
buyers makes the article too high-priced for their own welfare.
Use more fertilizers, and less manure from the city stables, and
let the decreased demand force down the excessive prices.

Even distribution over the area to be enriched is the chief
point of importance in the application of all concentrated
manures. This can be attained in no easier and more perfect
wa'y than by the use of a good fertilizer drill, such as for instance
is attached to the Empire grain drill. The box holds about one
bag (200 Ibs.) of fertilizer. Place the bags at convenient dis-
tances, scatteringly, over the area to be fertilized, fill the recep-
tacle of the drill, and commence operations, refilling as needed.
In heavy applications it may be necessary to go over the area
repeatedly, and preferably in different directions, either crosswise
or diagonally across the preceding application. If such a drill is
not at hand, as Very likely the case with the market gardener, the
stuff may be sown after plowing, and a thorough harrowing be
given afterwards. In sowing a ton to an acre, which is a pretty
heavy application, the operator will have to make close bouts,
scatter with full hand, and then probably be compelled to repeat
the operation crosswise of the first sowing, in order to put on the
full quantity.

For convenience in sowing by hand it is always advisable to
moisten the fertilizer before it is applied. Empty a bagful on a
tight barn floor, or in a tight wagon box, spread the fertilizer out
in an even layer, then sprinkle water over it ; next put on another
layer of fertilizer, apply water as before, and finally shovel the
whole mass over until it is thoroughly mixed, and uniformly
damp. It can then be sowed without filling the air around the
party whose hands scatter it, with the disagreeable dust.

There is no reason to fear ill results from " too much " fer-
tilizer, provided it is evenly distributed or thoroughly mixed
through the soil. Stinginess in this item is poor economy.

CHAPTER VIII.

MANURES FOR THE GARDEN.

III. NITRATES, WOOD ASHES, AND OTHER SPECIFIC FERTILIZERS.
" Cheapest is what serves its purpose best."

'O other single manurial element gives to the
progressive gardener the opportunities and
possibilities that he finds in nitrates, especially
in the form of nitrate of soda or Chili saltpeter,
vast natural deposits of which exist in various
districts of South America. The effect of this
salt on many garden crops is often truly
wonderful, and can generally be observed within
a few days after its application in the darker foliage and remark-
ably thrifty growth. It is readily soluble, and its nitrogen in
the exact form best suited for immediate absorption by the roots
of plants. ,

The body of gardeners move but slowly, and adopt new
things and means reluctantly. So while the merits and possibili-
ties of nitrate of soda have often been pointed out in the columns
of the agricultural press, the great public, fortunately for the
progressive few, knows nothing about it, a circumstance which
gives it into the hands of the shrewd manager to excel his slower
competitor with ease, and to beat him in every market. The
gardener who refuses to use nitrate of soda especially for his
early crops, neglects to take advantage of one of his very best
opportunities.

We must bear in mind that the natural process of converting
unavailable nitrogenous matter into soluble nitrates is very slow
in early spring ; that, in order to furnish as much as early crops
require at this time, we were compelled -to apply the enormous
quantities of stable compost with its excess of mineral elements
of plant food; and that the deficiency cannot be supplied by the
so-called complete concentrated fertilizers containing only IOO
Ibs. of nitrogen to the ton, except when applied in large quanti-
ties. In nitrates we have just the element of plant-food needed,
and by applying it in small quantities about as fast as the plants
can utilize it, we have it in our power to stimulate a thrifty

(37)

38 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

growth of foliage at comparatively slight expense, and at a time
when the product will bring the most money in market.

Nitrate of soda contains about i6or 17 percent, of nitrogen,
but this in a most soluble form, so that it would not be safe to
use it in large quantities at a time, for what is not at once
converted into plant structure, will gradually sink through the
soil as it would through a sieve, and be lost. The most eco-
nomical and most satisfactory method is the application of not
over 100 Ibs. to 150 Ibs. per acre repeated at intervals of about
two weeks. If lumpy, it should be pounded fine before applying
it. Scatter it over the ground when the foliage of plants is
perfectly dry, as it is apt to scorch the leaves otherwise, or still
better, apply just before or during a rain, when it will be dissolved
and carried into the soil at once. Sprinkling over the land in
solution is a safe but generally less "convenient mode of applica-
tion. It costs from $50 to $60 per ton, and can be obtained from
the large fertilizer manufacturers.

Sulphate of ammonia, a by-product of gas works, contains
about 20 per cent, of nitrogen ; but this is in a more stable form,
as it has to undergo the transformation into nitrate before being
readily available. Its effect is naturally slower, but more lasting,
and it can be applied.in larger quantities, or in single applications,
without fear of loss. It may take the place of nitrate of soda
during the warmer part of the season with gratifying results, and
in combination with that salt at any time, the latter for immediate
effect, the former as a more gradual source of supply.

The price of sulphate of ammonia is a trifle higher than that
of nitrate of soda. Undoubtedly we have in these two salts the
cheapest forms of available nitrogen, and ready means to produce
immediate and often astonishing results. I cannot refrain from
repeating the statement, that the gardener who scorns the use of
these nitrogen compounds will have a hard stand against the
competition of growers who put on the market the crisp, succu-
lent and early vegetables that can be so easily produced in all
their perfection by the judicious application of nitrate of soda and
sulphate of ammonia.

Hen manure might have been mentioned in the chapter on
stable compost. It is especially rich in nitrogen. A ton when
fresh contains more than twice, and a ton of the dry article more
than four times the quantity of nitrogen contained in a ton of
common stable manure. This will give an idea of its value for
the^garden. I always compost it with loam, muck, coal ashes,
leaves, etc., apply after plowing (broadcast) and stir it into the
surface soil by means of harrow, cultivator and rake. My neigh-
bors sometimes ask me what new variety of spinach, parsley, etc.,
I have in my family garden, and request me to procure some seed
of it for them. Yet the " new " and wonderfully thrifty vegetable

Manures for the Garden. — 39

most likely is none other than one of the standard sorts they have
in their own garden, the only difference being that my ground
was manured with one ton per acre of high-grade complete
fertilizer, and a good top dressing of composted hen manure, with
frequent but very light applications of nitrate of soda, while my
neighbors grounds were fed with extravagant quantities of stable
compost. The same method of feeding crops has always enabled
me to grow celery and other plants, and celery for the table also,
in great perfection.

In cotton-seed meal we have another nitrogenous manure of
special value for the market gardener, but as yet very little
appreciated or used. A ton contains about 140 Ibs. of nitrogen,
60 Ibs. of phosphoric acid, and 40 Ibs. of potash, and is
worth fully $3$.oo as manure. When mixed and composted
with stable manure it increases the comparative amount of nitro-

Spinach Fed with Nitrates, etc., and as Usually Grown.

gen of the latter, and therefore its effectiveness. Gardeners who
keep stock should feed cotton-seed meal to the fullest extent that
it is safe to do. It then gives double returns, namely, in increase
of flesh, and improvement of manure. Where nitrate of soda,
on account of distance from source of supply and consequent
high cost, cannot be used advantageously, cotton-seed meal can
often be had at a comparatively low price, and should then be
used in place of the nitrogen compounds.

Potash in any special form is hardly ever needed for the
crops on common garden land, since stable compost and the
average high-grade complete fertilizer supply an abundance, and
often an excess of it, to the crops already. A different thing it
is with peaty and mucky soils. These have already an abun-
dance of the nitrogenous element, although mostly in fixed
combinations, and hence in an unavailable form. On the other
hand, the mineral elements are scantily supplied. Stable manure
would add a comparatively large amount of nitrogen at great
expense to the already vast store, and but small quantities of
phosphoric acid and potash. Such lands, for that reason, can be

40 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

made productive in the cheapest and quickest way by applications
of phosphoric acid and potash, in the form of a plain superphos-
phate, or bone meal, in combination with wood ashes. The
alkaline nature of the latter neutralizes injurious acids, and helps
to make nitrogen available. Unleached wood ashes can be
applied at the rate of 100 bushels and more per acre with perfect
safety, and leached ashes in much larger quantities. As means
of protecting crops against the ill effects of a prolonged drought,
however, wood ashes have no mean value on any soil. I will
refer to this subject in a future chapter.

The question is often referred to me : " Will it pay a renter to
apply manures on land that he will or may have to vacate the next
season ? " This can have but one answer. It stands between
the use of manure and the unsatisfactory outcome of the business.
No manure — no paying crop. But in case of pending removal, it
will always be safest to use the quick-acting commercial fertilizers,
and nitrate of soda in preference to the slower and more lasting
stable manure. The nitrate of soda is all and entirely utilized for
the next crop, or leached out of the soil, and of the commercial
fertilizer only an inconsiderable part will be left to increase the
successor's crops, if the soil is as thoroughly cropped all
through the season as it should be. Stable manure is apt to
donate only a part of its plant-foods for the production of the
same year's crops, and much of the expensive material would
probably be left for the benefit of the renter's successor.

CHAPTER IX.

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS

AND HOW TO USE THEM.
" Only the best is good enough."

T is not many years since the spade was considered the
first requisite in the garden. Now we know that a
good two-horse plow does the work of turning the
soil not only much faster, and with less labor to man
than spade or spading fork, but much better at the
same time. Good plows are now on sale at every
hardware store, and used by all intelligent farmers.
In fact there are more good plows than good plowers ;
for simple as the operation seems to be, but few people know
how to do it to best advantage. Straight lines and even furrows
require much less work than crooked lines and irregular furrows.
There is a knack about this natural to some people, but not
easily acquired by the average " hired man," and the gardener, ii
he desires to have the work done well, must do it himself or

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Sample of Faulty Plowing.

instruct his men how to do it. Suppose we have a strip of land
to plow of shape as here shown, and situated between strips of
standing crops. Even a poor plowman will find little difficulty
of striking out the furrow in centre, and to go on all right for
awhile ; but as the plowing progresses, and the team naturally

(40

42 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

crowds towards the plowed ground when nearing the end of long
furrows on each side, the corners become rounded, and when the
piece is all plowed clear to the sides, the four corners will still be
left untouched, and must be finished with an immoderate amount
of turning, and at last will be poorly done, or left partly unfin-
ished. A good plowman will strike his last furrow exactly on
the very edge of the piece.

The market gardener also needs a good, light one-horse
plow, to plow up smaller patches for second and third crops, in
cultivating and hilling-up celery, and for various other uses.
Every hardware dealer keeps them.

Subsoiling is not absolutely necessary for warm loam with
porous subsoil, but generally of considerable benefit for soils

resting on a heavier and com-
pact lower stratum. Such a
plow following in the furrow
made by the common plow, is
intended to lift and break the
layer next under the top soil.
It is not often used in the home

Cutaway Harrow. garden' Among modern har-

rows we nave some most

excellent tools designed and suited for special purposes. The
" Cutaway " is a deep cutting implement, and in many cases can
almost take the place of the plow, but it is hardly necessary for the
market gardener. The "Disk"
is another good farmer's har-
row, and doing thorough work,
especially on freshly-turned,
tough sod ; but an "Acme "
will answer as well as any
other for breaking up and
fining the mellow lands in the
garden. In an emergency
almost any of the older-style, Acme Harrow-

plain steel-tooth harrows may be used. The " Thomas'
Smoothing" harrow, however, is so useful and effective in
finishing off a piece of land for sowing seeds, in killing
weeds in corn and potato fields early in the season, that
neither farmer nor gardener can well afford to do without it.
The diligent use of this implement will bring the soil in fine
tilth, and often leave it in moderately good shape for sowing or
planting, but it will always be advisable to apply the finishing
touch with a Meeker Disk harrow, which does as good work
as a steel-rake, and much faster and more conveniently. We
also need a good spade ; a spading fork ; sharp, light hoes ; dibbers,
etc. The latter are simply pieces of hardwood, with an iron

Garden Implements — 43

point and a convenient handle. The new style of dibber, here
illustrated, consisting of a flat steel blade with handle, is a great
improvement on the old tool, and I hope will soon be put on sale
generally. The home gardener,
who generally sows seeds by
hand, needs a marker, which may
be a cheap, home-made affair,
constructed from a piece of
scantling 4 by 4, with three or
four sharpened strips of inch
Old-style Dibbers, board securely nailed on in front,
or mortised in, so that the pointed
ends are 15 or 16 inches apart Two poles are
adjusted for handles. The marker may be made
reversible, with another set of teeth, but only 12
inches apart, pointing in the opposite direction.
The market gardener will also need a tool of this
kind for marking the rows where he wishes to plant
onion sets, or to set lettuce plants, etc. The distance
between the teeth must be regulated according to his
purpose. Markers as found in general use are here
illustrated. .Indispensable in the market garden, and
still more so in the farm garden, and convenient to have even

in the home garden,
is a good seed drill.
The leading imple-
ments now in use are
Matthews' and Planet
Jr. garden drills. The
latter is shown in illus-

New- style
Dibber.

Marker for Home Garden.

tration on next page.

For accuracy and regularity of depositing the seed, and ease and
rapidity of operation, the Planet Jr. has hardly a peer. It affords
a safe, easy, and perfect method of sowing smaller seeds over large
or small areas. The
intelligent farmer who
has learned to appre-
ciate the mangels, and
carrots and other root
crops as winter food
for cattle, sheep, hogs
and horses, and makes
it a practice to plant
largely of them every
year, is not unacquainted with the merits of the garden drills,
and often would not consider his assortment of implements
complete without a good garden seed sower.

Marker for the Market Garden.

44 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

But the tool of all tools, the modern weed-slayer, the great
labor-saver, the greatest horticultural blessing of the age — that
is the modern wheel-hoe. This above all others frees the gar-
dener from undesirable work, cuts down the labor account one-
half, and makes tillage, both in the home and market garden, light
and pleasant. It is quite a number of years ago when it was
first introduced, but fortunately for the progressive gardener for
money, the slow moving majority has not yet recognized its
value. The advantages connected with the possession of one of
these tools cannot be over-stated, nor emphasized too strongly,

Planet Jr. Garden Drill.

nor told too frequently. Without the wheel-hoe's help the gar-
dener of to-day cannot hope to hold out against his progressive
competitors. It is the tool that more than anything else has
cheapened the cost of production in garden stuff. The most
perfect implement of this kind, at present, is the " Planet Jr.
Double Wheel-Hoe," illustrated in next Fig., a cultivator, rake and
plow combined, in fact an all purpose tool of tillage, and good
to whatever use you put it. It can be made to hoe both
sides of one row, or between rows, in level culture and in throw-
ing the soil either to or from the row. This tool banishes the
old hand hoe from the garden to a certain extent, and reduces

Garden Implements — 45

the unpleasant task of weeding to a minimum,
suppose that he can safely get along without a
the home garden this implement makes a

Let no gardener
wheel-hoe. In
pleasure of what

Planet Jr. Double Wheel Hoe.

otherwise is a job dreaded by all. Now the half-grown boy runs
the wheel-hoe up and down the rows of vegetables " for fun " and
recreation, and accomplishes in one-half hour what a man with a
hand hoe could not per-
form in a whole day.
As a separate attachment
to this we have the Onion
Set Harvester, illustrated
on next page. As its
name indicates it is used
in harvesting onion sets,
also in cutting spinach
for market. Similar
cheaper tools have also

been put on the market, ^^f^fe" S*^^^^
such as the Planet Jr. ^~~-^ ^ "i-.-TV Sps

Planet Jr. Cultivating with Rakes.

Single Wheel-Hoe, Gem
of the Garden Cultivator,

Gregory's Finger Weeder, and others. They all answer their
purpose very well, but the Planet Jr. Double Wheel-Hoe stands
at the head, and I advise you to use no other. People who garden

Hoeing Between Rows.

46 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

on a modest scale are often tempted to purchase a combi-
nation tool — drill and cultivator combined, such as Planet Jr.
Combined Drill and Wheel-Hoe, seen at work hoeing both sides

of the row below, and as
a cultivator on next page.
Such a combination has
serious objections, how-
ever. Its double purpose
necessarily makes it com-
plicated, and less effective
in either capacity, and
whenever you use it you
are wearing out two im-
plements at the same
time. If you think you
can afford but one tool,
by all means sow seeds
by hand, and buy a
separate double wheel-
hoe. A good horse-hoe can now be purchased at almost any hard-
ware store. The " Planet Jr.," always unsur-
passed, is always the leader in improvements,
and has some novel attractions for the com-
ing season. One for instant adjustment of
width, and another for quickly securing the
handles to one side or the other, is a boon to
grape, hop, and blackberry growers, and when-
ever covering or making up plant ridges is to
be done. The illustration on next page shows
it in a useful form, with a set of teeth which are onlyi^ inches

in width, and such do the best
work in stirring the soil. For
many reasons an even surface
of the soil is most desirable,
and we want no ridges and
furrows. Hilling is required
only in rare cases, such as the
last cultivation of potatoes, or
in the celery field ; and the
hilling blades can then be sub-
stituted for the two narrow
outside blades. If I further
emphasize the necessity of
having the hand hoes bright
clean, and sharp, and hung in the proper angle to a light,
smooth handle ; of keeping the steel and cutting parts of all
implements bright, and well oiled when not in use, and all tools

Combined Drill and Wheel-Hoe.

yx\\ B R A R yT*V

I' OF THE A

^ COLLEGE OF I
• ^r ^ .. ,J3^ /

Implements — 47

in their places under cover, little else remains to be added on
the subject of tools of tillage. Implements for special use, such
as asparagus bunchers, spinach cutters, hand weeders, etc., will
be mentioned elsewhere.
It is hardly necessary to
speak of wagons, etc., as
their selection depends on
local fashions, and special
purposes. A good manure-
spreader may be a con-
venient implement ; but I
question whether it can be
considered indispensable in
even a large market garden.
With the use of many
implements of tillage, such
as the various styles of
hoes, spades, shovels, forks,
etc., the question of "best" is often dependent on the habit of the
user. Some people after having once acquired the " knack " of

Combined Drill and Wheel-Hoe.

Planet Jr. Horse Hoe.

handling a certain tool to advantage will do much better work
with it than with a superior or more modern one. The employer
must humor the whims of the hired help in such cases, and give
them just the tool that they have learned to use with skill and
to best advantage.

The improvement of gardening implements, both large and
small, is still going on at a rapid rate. The leader of to-day may
be crowded into second or third rank to-morrow. This keeps
the progressive gardener on the alert all the time to enable him

48 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

to profit by any new device that may be of unusual merit, and
to keep ahead of his competitors. On the other hand I can
hardly advise the gardener of moderate means to invest in every
new implement as soon as put on the market under high claims.
Progressiveness in this respect may well and profitably be tem-
pered with quite a considerable amount of conservatism. Among
implements not yet in market, but sadly needed, I would mention,
i) a contrivance for mixing paris green and land-plaster in a rapid,
safe, convenient and thorough manner ; 2) a cheap portable pump

Latest Improvements on Planet Jr. Horse Hoe.

or apparatus for spraying plants with liquid poisons and fungi-
cides ; 3) an implement for pulverizing the soil in the bottom of
deep furrows when preparing them for planting potatoes ; 4) a
more convenient garden-marker than any described in this work
— one to be pushed rather than pulled — cheap and simple, etc.

CHAPTER X.

COLD FRAMES.

THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE.
" This is an art that mends nature."

| OLD frames are simple affairs — box-like structures
covered with sashes. The latter are the chief
part, and involve the real expense in the construc-
tion of such frames, but being a staple article of
commerce, and manufactured with special
machinery in special factories, can now be bought
at (or ordered through) any supply store at mod-
erate prices. They usually cost $2.00 each, ready
glazed and painted, and perhaps can be had cheaper in large
quantities. The usual size is 6 feet in length by 3 feet in width,
and the frames are made to correspond, namely 6 feet wide and
3 feet in length for every sash to be accommodated.

The selection of site is important. The proper place for
frames is in convenient proximity to the water supply, and also

,<r • .: •

-

Arrangement of Cold Frames.

in a position sheltered from the north and west, facing south or
south-east. A close and tall hedge of evergreens affords a most
excellent protection, but if such does not happen to be where it
can be utilized for the purpose, a tight board fence, at least six
feet high, must be built at the north side of the beds and
4 (49)

5O — How to Make the Garden Pay.

extending their whole length. A building, hedge or board fence
at the west is also desirable. In this comfortable situation con-
struct your system of frames, making it as easily accessible as
convenient for operation, and as snug generally as circumstances
will permit. The frame is set on top of the ground, no excava-
tion being required. The back is made of boards 12 inches wide,
nailed to stakes driven in the ground at the ends and middle of
each boafd ; the front consists of boards only 8 inches wide, and
fastened to stakes in the same manner, at a uniform distance of 6
feet from the first. When the necessary end pieces are adjusted
we have a close fitting box, 4 inches lower in front than at the
back. Such a system of frames, in process of construction, is
shown on preceding page.

The number of sashes required by the market gardener
depends on extent of business and area, and still more largely on
the particular line of work in which he is engaged. For general
market garden purposes it may take 20 to 25 sashes to each acre
of ground, but when frames are extensively used for the produc-
tion of vegetables, such as spinach, lettuce, carrots, beets, parsley
and soup celery, or in the special line of growing plants for sale,
the number of sashes required will be proportionately larger.
Some gardeners devote their energies almost exclusively to cold-
frame products.

In some cases it is more convenient to buy the sash frames
unglassed, and put the glass in them on the premises. In this
emergency, as also in the work of repairing and patching old

Improved Putty Bulb.

sashes, the newer method of putting on putty in liquid form, and
by means of a putty bulb, can be recommended as quite con-
venient, and preferable to the old way. The mixture used for
this is composed of one-third white lead, one-third common
putty, and one-third boiled oil, all by measure not by weight.
Mix oil and putty thoroughly, add the white lead, and strain. If
too thick, as liable to be in cold weather, add a small quantity
of benzine or turpentine. Paint the sash ; then fill the bulb with
the liquid putty, run a little of it along the sash bars, then bed
the glass on it, and run more of the liquid along the edges of the

Cold Frames — 51

glass, next to the bars ; allow it to harden and you have a neat
and tight joint.

USE OF FRAMES. — Let us suppose that the cold frames are
available in the autumn for regular work. The first use to be
made of them is in wintering cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce
plants for the extra early crops. Some gardeners sow the seed
directly into the frames in rows a few inches apart and thin
afterwards. A better way, undoubtedly, is to sow the seed in
open ground, about i$th of September, and transplant four weeks
later to the frames. It is of greatest importance that each plant
should have its just allowance of space. Cabbage and cauliflower
plants should have 5 or 6 square inches each (plant in rows
3 inches apart and 2 inches apart in the row), and lettuce plants
somewhat closer (i ^ inches apart in the rows). The general
tendency with gardeners is to plant too thickly — and this is a
prolific cause of failure, or of poor plants. A good practice, also,
is to make two sowings in open ground, about September 1 5th
and 2Oth, to be sure of plants. If the first sown get too large,
the others will be just right. Cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce
plants are quite hardy, and can endure considerable cold weather
without injury. The sashes must be put on by the time winter
sets in, and the chief point of importance afterwards is unceasing
and untiring attention to proper ventilation. We should bear in
mind that the object is not, to grow plants during the winter, but
to keep them on a perfect stand-still (dormant), and make them
so hardy that they will at once start into lively growth when
planted out in spring, even in rather cool weather, and be able to
endure late severe freezes without check. For this reason a
moderately low, not a warm temperature is required in the
frames, and also a considerable amount of exposure. On cold
but clear winter days, and when the temperature is not lower
than within a few degrees of zero, the sashes should be partly
raised, by tilting at back or front, or by partial removal, or in
any other convenient way. This requires considerable attention
and good judgment. During moderate weather the sashes had
best be removed entirely. Constant watchfulness, and doing the
right thing at the right time, will insure good plants. Only in
a climate with severe winters are shutters or mats required for
additional protection. What they are, and how made, is told in
next chapter. Deep snow should not be left very many days
upon the sashes, unless the ground in the beds was frozen at the
time of its fall. Early removal is the safer treatment.

With all the progress that we have made of late in horti-
cultural art, and in spite of all the efforts put forth by good
writers and publishers in behalf of the distribution of horticultural
knowledge, it is a facl that the production of good plants is the
exception, and that failure, wholly or in part, is the rule. Hence

52 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

we often find the liveliest demand for well-grown wintered plants
at paying figures, $4.00 to $5.00 per 1,000, being the usual price,
which gives an average of $2.00 to $2.50 for the plants covered
by one sash.

One of the most successful gardeners says : " I would pre-
fer such wintered plants at $10 per thousand to spring (hot-bed)
grown plants as a gift — not to speak of the worthless plants that
are shipped every spring by the hundred thousand from the
South, and palmed off on the public as cold-frame-wintered
plants." If, on account of failure or neglect, the frames are not
provided with plants, and these are needed for early use, the next
best method of growing them is the following : pack a layer of
fermenting horse manure all around the cold frames, and sow the
seed in them in February ; or still better, use hot-beds as directed
under proper heading.

Another, and a very important use of the cold frames is for
the production of spinach, radishes, parsley, soup celery, carrots,
beets, etc., for early market. Spinach may be sown in the
autumn, and marketed during the winter, or as soon as the crop
is large enough, and prices acceptable. The frames can then be
replanted with the same or some other crop. Vegetables thus
grown in cold frames often find ready sale and remunerative
prices in April or May. The extent to which the gardener can
engage in this work depends on local conditions, and these must
be consulted. Make the soil in the frames very rich by mixing
it freely with good compost. Watering the beds with weak solu-
tions of nitrate of soda generally has marked results in pro-
ducing quick growth, heavy development of foliage and excellent
quality, especially crispness and tenderness. Always sow the
seeds in rows across the beds. Early " marketableness " and the
greatly desired uniformity can only be secured by attention to
proper thinning, and this should be given just as soon as the
young plants are large enough to show individual thrift and other
qualities, so the most promising may be left, and the undesirable
ones removed. Growing crops under glass is an expensive busi-
ness on account of the glass and the attention it requires, and
space is valuable. Hence, to attain satisfactory results, we must
aim to cover the whole area under glass with vegetable growth,
yet without undue crowding. Not a single square inch of the
available area should be left unutilized, and yet not a single plant
checked in its development for lack of space. This is a matter
requiring considerable care and judgment, and without these
failure is more certain than success.

The results of a series of careful experiments made by
observing and inquisitive growers of cold frame crops right in my
immediate neighborhood seem to speak in favor of the distances

Cold Frames — 53

named in the following table, as most profitable for this special
purpose, viz. :

Sow spinach in rows 8-9 inches apart, thin to 2 inches.

" beets " 7 " " " 3 "

" carrots " 6 " " " 2 "

" radishes " 4 " " " 2 "
" soup celery" 6
«' parsley 6

Under no circumstances would it be safe to make the rows
still narrower, or leave the plants closer in the rows. If you
vary from these distances, by all means make them larger.
Instead of planting the radishes by themselves, however, it is
generally preferable to sow one row between each two rows of
any of the other vegetables. This makes the rows as close as
three inches apart in some cases; but the radishes will be off in
time for the other stuff to occupy the space when it is needed.

The usual time for sowing these crops is about March 1st
for New Jersey, and correspondingly earlier or later further south
or north; in other words, from two to four weeks sooner than
the same vegetables could be sown in the open ground. This is
late enough to insure safety from injury by the tail end of winter;
it is also early enough to hit the time of brisk demand, and realize
the best prices. The aim is to get these crops from one to four
weeks ahead of the earliest out-door supply. The competition
from the South is generally not very formidable, as their modes of
cultivation, perhaps their soil and climate, and certainly the long
shipment always lower the value of vegetables from there in the
eyes of consumers and dealers. The near-by products often
bring high prices when the southern supply goes a-begging.

This also is the case with head lettuce, so-called. This, like
the other crops, is grown in cold frames during the latter part of
winter for marketing in early spring. Many gardeners make it
a practice to have a number of spare frames without sash, but
covered during winter with litter to keep the ground from freezing.
When the time arrives that the cabbage and lettuce plants in the
regular frames can get along without glass protection, perhaps
by March 1st, the spare frames are made ready, planted with
lettuce plants from the wintered supply, and these set six or
seven inches apart each way. They are then covered with the
sashes taken from the cold frames containing wintered plants, and
tended in a similar way as the plant frames by giving ventilation
when needed. Aim to stimulate early and full development of
the crop in every way possible. Applications of nitrate of soda,
either dry or in solution, or of liquid manure hardly ever fail to
pay well. If it is thought risky to leave the wintered plants,
from which the sashes were removed, entirely without protection,

54 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

simple home-made frames covered with common muslin (or with
the waterproof cloth now made for the purpose), might be sub-
stituted for the glass sashes, and the plants kept thus protected
during the night until danger is past.

WATERING THE BEDS. — It is not necessary to apply water at
this time very frequently, except quite late in the season, and
during clear weather ; but when done the application should be
thorough — no mere sprinkling will do. The most convenient
method is by means of force pump or pressure, and rubber
hose. Later the rains of heaven should be called into service
whenever they happen to occur at an opportune period. The
careful manager, by speedy and entire removal of the sashes
from the beds, can often save much labor otherwise required for
watering the crops by artificial means.

In many localities, especially where the seasons are com-
paratively long, as in New Jersey, the cold frames after having
done duty in the production of vegetables, may then be further
used for growing late tomato plants, or for finishing and harden-
ing off tomato plants raised in hot-beds. Market gardeners in
districts where tomatoes are grown in field culture for the canning
establishments, often have considerable call for plants up to July.
It is true such plants must be sold low, often at no more than
$1.50 per thousand ; but as they are grown as a second or third
crop, and 600 to 800 of them may be grown under each sash,
this feature adds quite considerably to the profits of running cold
frames.

Forcing cucumbers is another industry in which the cold
frame is made to serve a good purpose. After the lettuce or crop
of wintered plants is cleared off, a few cucumber seeds are planted
in center of sash. When the vines are up, ventilation is given as
needed, and the sashes removed entirely as soon as the season
has pretty well advanced, and the vines begin to crowd the
sashes. This crop, coming, as did the other, a few weeks in
advance of the earliest out-door supply, generally brings remune-
rative prices. Melons can be grown in a similar way.

The exact dates of planting, what crops to gro\v, and to what
extent for each — all these are questions of local bearing, depend-
ing on climate, season, demand of the market, and usual price
of products. In every one of these enterprises constant thought
and study, earnest consideration of these questions in all their
intricacy and various aspects and bearings, and pretty good
judgment, are first requisites of success. On these the whole
matter hinges, much more than on rules and instructions which
at best can be only of a general rather than special character.

Southern climate often permits the use of cold frames. where
hot-beds would be required at the north.

Cold Frames. — 55

By taking advantage of the additional protection during the
night that mats or shutters afford, tomato and even egg-plants
can be grown without bottom heat. This question, however,
must also be left largely to the judgment of the individual grower,
who is acquainted with his local conditions.

The use of cold frames in starting lima beans, cucumbers,
melons, etc., by planting on squares of inserted sod, which are
to be transferred to the open ground when the season has
sufficiently advanced, will be referred to at another occasion.

CHAPTER XL

MANURE HOT-BEDS.

THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE.
"A little leaven leaveneth the whole lump."

N outward appearance and arrangement hot-beds resem-
ble the cold frames described in preceding chapter.
In the cold frames no artificial heat was employed,
while the hot -beds have what is called "bottom
heat." The material most generally used by gardeners
for producing this heat is fresh horse manure.

The proper place for the hot-beds is in same
plot with the cold frames, near the water supply,
and under the shelter of a hill, building, or tight, tall fence
or hedge. Make an excavation a little more than six feet
wide (for sash of common length), 24 inches deep, and as
long as needed to accommodate the desired number of sashes,
running east and west, or northeast and southwest.
Set stakes half a board length apart on each side, and enclose

the excavation tightly
with boards clear from
the bottom up, to hinder
the intrusion of moles,
rats and mice. The north
side may be 12 or 1 8
inches high above the
surface, the south side
six inches lower, so as
to give the sashes the

Cross-bar for hot bed.

needed slope to carry off
rain and snow water, and
the sun all the better chance to reach the soil, and stimulate plant
life under the sashes. When the frame is in place, a strip of
inch board, wide enough to serve as rest for the sash edges, and
having a two inch upright in the centre, as shown in illustration,
is then fastened across where each two sashes meet.

The preparation of the manure, although quite a simple
matter, is still a mysterious subject formally gardeners, and the
knowledge of the simple principles involved in this question is
(56)

Manure Hot-Beds. — 57

not general. Many growers fear the uncertainties connected
with this method of heating beds. The yeast fungus, which is
the cause of fermentation, if once introduced into a manure heap
suitable to its growth, spreads quite rapidly, and soon has the
whole mass in a state of heat. Horse manure is the best because
richest or if hottest," for this purpose, and sheep manure comes
next. The manure made from animals fed highly with grain,
bran, oil meal, etc., is most suitable. It should contain plenty of
urine-soaked litter; and the addition of half its bulk of dry forest
leaves, especially after they have been used as absorbents in the
stables, is always of advantage. The object in view is the pro-
duction of uniform and immediate heat all through the bed, and
for this reason the. spores or seed of fermentation should be
spread all through the manure heap, and the latter
thus tempered — leavened, as it were. To do this, draw the
manure to a convenient place near the hot-beds, and pile it up in
a conical heap, leaving it there until fermentation has well started
in. In very cold weather it may be necessary to cover the pile
lightly with straw, hay, or other loose litter to prevent freezing
from the outside before the heating has begun. Before fermen-
tation becomes too lively,
as indicated by escaping
steam, the heap may be,
forked over again, and
piled up as before for a
few days to heat, or
thrown immediately into
the pit, taking pains to
mix the fermenting part
all through the whole
mass, and to break
up all lumps. If the
manure is already very

hot at this time, tread it down firmly; but if fermentation has
only just set in lightly, leave the manure in the pit somewhat
loose, and fill up clear to the top of frames. In settling, a
depression is apt to form all along the middle of the bed, and
right there the manure should be packed more solid than at the
sides. Now put on the sashes, and leave until fermentation
has again become quite active all through the bed; then tread
down solid, even off where needed, and cover with soil about
six inches deep. Soil, to be in best condition for this purpose,
should have been prepared the fall previous, and be kept safe
from freezing until wanted. It must be rich and fine, and consist
of about one-third well-rotted compost, and two-thirds good
loam, rotten turf, etc.

The beds should now be left until the soil has become

Hot-bed cross section.

58 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

warmed through, and the weed seeds near the surface have
had time to germinate. Then remove the sashes, rake the
surface thoroughly to kill the weeds, and make a smooth and
fine seed-bed; and you are ready for planting or sowing seed.
The illustration on preceding page represents a cross-section of
bed.

Sometimes the manure, especially if poor, i. e. from poorly-
fed animals, refuses to come to a heat. Then all you have to do
is to make it richer by mixing it with hen manure, bone dust or
by throwing hot soapsuds, rank liquid manure, etc., upon it.
This treatment will generally bring it to terms. One good load
of manure is about sufficient for two sashes.

The depth of the manure in hot-beds is variously given as
1 8, 24 and 30 inches. This is a question hinging on locality,
season and plants to be grown. For general purposes in a climate
like that of New Jersey or southern Pennsylvania, and late in
February, or beginning of March, an 1 8-inch layer of fermenting
manure may do ; but in a severer climate, earlier in the winter,
or for the production of pepper and egg plants, or other plants
requiring considerable heat, the manure should be 24 to 30 inches
in depth, and the pit be dug deep enough to answer these condi-
tions. The first use in the season made of the hot-beds is in grow-
ing lettuce for early
market. They are got
in readiness and planted
by middle of January.
Plant about 6 or 7 inches
square, cover the beds
with straw mats or light
shutters during cold
nights, and give ventila-
Firming Board. tion in clear, warm days.

Radishes are grown in

same way. Watering, if not done by means of a stream forced
through rubber hose, is facilitated by means of a long-spouted
watering pot or sprinkler. When the crop is taken off, the beds
may be used same as cold frames.

STARTING EARLY PLANTS. — The chief and most important
use of hot-beds is for the production of egg plants, tomato and
pepper plants, also of cabbage plants for early planting when the
needed supply of cold-frame-wintered plants is not at hand.
For starting tomato, egg and pepper plants, the beds are
generally put in readiness in February or March, and the seed
sown rather thickly (best in regular rows), lightly covered
with fine soil, mold or pulverized moss, and firmed by lightly
patting the soil with some convenient implement, as the back

Manure Hot-Beds. — 59

of rake or hoe, or with a piece of board with handle, made
especially for this purpose, of the shape shown in engraving.
In watering, a fine rose sprinkler, or a coarse spray nozzle
and tepid water should be used. It is not safe to let the soil get
dry, or to neglect ventilation on warm clear days. During cold
nights, especially at the extreme North, the beds will need
additional protection by straw mats or board shutters. The
liability of the weather to suprise us with sudden changes must
keep the grower always on the alert. It is never wise to with-
hold protection for the night because the evening is warm, or
neglect the bed for the day because the morning is cloudy.
Sometimes in a dark day, when ventilation does not seem to be
required, the sun will suddenly break through the clouds at mid-
day, threatening to burn the plants if the sashes are not speedily
removed or raised. In short, hot-beds require constant and
careful watching.

SHUTTERS AND MATS. — The shutters used for additional
protection are made of half-inch stuff, and of size of sash. A
stack of them piled up when not in use, is here illustrated.

Stack of Shutters. •

The straw mats can also be made by the most unskilled person
from long rye straw tied with tarred string. Their manufacture
is a simple thing indeed. Make a frame 7 by 4 feet, as seen in
engraving, and tightly stretch four or five parallel stout tarred
strings, ten to twelve inches apart, from top to bottom. Have as
many balls of lighter tarred string, and fasten one end to each
upright string next the bottom, leaving the balls in front of the
frame. Now lay a whisk of straw, cut sides out, in the junction
of the strings at the bottom, and fasten it there by twisting each
of the smaller strings once around the straw and the upright

60 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

string. Next put on another whisk of straw, and continue
until frame is full, and the mat finished. The whole expense
connected with these handy conveniences and effective means of
protecting early tender plants in frames is a quantity of nice,
clean, bright rye straw and some tarred string. The labor
required in making them does not count for much as the work
can be done in a convenient outbuilding, or under a shed during
rainy days at leisure. In the course of a season a large supply
of such mats may be made, and as they can be rolled up, stored
and handled conveniently, and besides give the very best of
protection against cold, they are greatly to be preferred to

Frame for making Straw Mats.

board shutters. Rye cut before the grain has formed makes the
best material for mats, and the gardener in need of them will find
it a good plan to have a piece of rye grown and cut at the period
named for this very purpose.

FLATS, ETC. — When the plants are large enough — perhaps
in five or six weeks — they are transplanted in other newly-made
hot-beds giving space enough for their full development, or 2 to
4 inches square. This is often done (and a superior way it is)
by putting an inch or so of sand or soil upon the new manure,
and placing upon this foundation, close together, shallow boxes
called " flats " into which the plants are set at the proper distance.
If plants are to be retailed by the dozen, it is well to make the

Manure Hot-Beds.— 61

flats hold one dozen plants each, or of various sizes and contain-
ing various quantities as may be desired by the purchaser.
More and more ventilation is given as the season advances, and
the plants must be perfectly hardened off by exposure, transfer
to open cold frames or otherwise, before they can be safely
placed into the open ground. This is a matter of greater
importance than most people imagine. Millions of early started
and well-grown plants are annually set out, that in transplanting
before they have been properly accustomed to the hardships of
outdoor life, receive a check from which they do not recover soon
enough to prevent much later plants, or even natural seedlings,
from getting ahead of them, and producing fruit much the earliest.
The proper hardening off of plants is one of the secrets of success,
and perhaps a leading one, in the production of early crops of
garden fruits.

SOIL FT>R FLATS. — The most important item of annual
expense connected with running manure hot-beds is the manure
used for fuel. But, after all, this costs nothing in reality, since it
loses very little fertilizing substance by the process of slow com-
bustion in the hot-bed, and when dug" out next fall, or in the
spring following, is worth fully as much to the gardener as when
first put in, if not more. It went into the pit — a raw and
unreliable manure ; it comes out — a fine, rich compost, and when
mixed with the soil in the hot-beds, and perhaps still increased
in bulk by additional admixture of sandy loam, then fined and
sifted, makes the very best imaginable soil for the "flats" spoken
of, or for hot-bed and cold frame use generally, and this is worth
to the gardener even more than first cost of the manure.*

While therefore the item of expense alone is decidedly in
favor of manure hot-beds, there are, on the other hand, serious
inconveniences, and sometimes obstacles connected with it. The
right kind of manure is not always to be easily obtained, or not
in the required quantities ; the heat is only partially under the
control of the gardener, and the whftle thing connected with
many uncertainties, especially for the less experienced manager.
Then there is the annual digging, and composting, and refilling,
and with all these inconveniences, your fuel will last only for a
few weeks. For this reason I have always looked with some-
what of disfavor upon manure as fuel for hot-beds, and have had
an open eye for a more steady and controllable heating method.
In some respects I consider the fire hot-bed a great improvement
on the manure hot-bed.

*If hot-bed and cold frame making is a new undertaking, and soil was not prepared, as it should
be, the summer or fall before, nor compost from hot-beds to be had for the purpose, it is often difficult
to find just what is wanted in the winter with the ground frozen solid. It may then be necessary to
look for a supply in the cellar, under barns, sheds, other outbuildings, or under the manure heap.
Cart from any source at hand, mix and sift, through a coarse sieve first, and thrcugh finer ones as the
stuff becomes drier and finer.

CHAPTER XII.

FIRE HOT-BEDS

AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION.
" Nothing is denied to well-directed labor."

HE cognizance of the weak points in the common
manure hot-bed has led progressive people to
try wood and coal heat in beds otherwise
similarly constructed. The heat is generated in
a simple furnace at the lower end of the bed,
and distributed by an ordinary flue beneath the
bed, running its entire length, and ending in a
chimney at the opposite end. To promote the
equal distribution of heat under the soil, the flue at a little
distance from the furnace may be divided in two or three

Fire Hot-Beds.

parallel branches or pipes, uniting again before they enter the
chimney.

For reasons of better utilization of the heat, and convenience

of management, it is preferable to make these beds intermediate

between hot-bed and common greenhouse. For many years I

have had such beds under my observation, and found that they

(62)

"Fire Hot-Beds.— 63

can be run very successfully and economically, and are now
run so in many places for forcing lettuce, radishes, etc., followed
by egg plant, tomato, pepper or sweet potato plants. A bed of
this kind is shown in illustration on preceding page and consists
of a double row of sashes forming a gable roof.

The propei place for the structure is near the cold frames or
regular hot-beds, and running in same direction of compass. A
trench, see illustration, is excavated in centre of bed, slanting
from the surface of the ground where it is nearly as wide
as the bed, to the bottom where it need not be over half that
width. The furnace end should be on lower end of bed and
from three to four feet deep. From there the flue rises gradually,
say one foot to every ten in length, until it enters the chimney at
the end opposite the furnace.

The fire-place may be constructed of fire-brick. Its height
is about two feet, ten inches of which are the ash-pit below the
grate ; its width about twelve inches, and the length of grate
twenty-eight or thirty inches. The bottom of the flue immediately
in the rear of the -furnace

must be somewhat above ..--'"' "~\.

the level of the grate, say
6 or 8 inches, to prevent
ashes and cinders from
getting into the flues. The
first 8 or 10 feet of flue
must be constructed of
brick ; the remainder may
consist of terra-cotta as Trench for Fire Hot-Bed,

used as a substitute for

brick chimneys, or even of lo-inch tile drain. The chimney
may be of brick or of terra-cotta, whatever the builder prefers.
A pit immediately in front of the fire-place, to the depth of
bottom of ash-pit, allows the operator to tend the fire, and when
not in use, is kept covered by a slanting door. A solid
frame-work, well supported underneath, holds a floor of plank
or boards for the soil, and a frame for the sashes to rest upon.
The most common mistake made in the erection of a fire
hot-bed is right in this frame-work. Few people seem to bear in
mind that this has to carry a considerable weight, and being
exposed to the influence of constant dampness, is liable to decay
and give out very soon, unless the timbers are strong, well-put
up, and of a kind not easily affected by moisture. The whole
arrangement of the bed is so simple that anybody of ordinary
understanding should be able to put it up without difficulty.
The gardener's common sense will dictate to him the details not
mentioned. The greatest objection to a hot-bed of this kind —
tendency towards dryness of atmosphere, and necessity of frequent

64 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

watering — may in a measure be overcome by placing shallow
pans upon the flue under the floor of bed, and keeping them
constantly supplied with water.

The Michigan Agricultural College has recently built a fire
hot-bed which comprises some very meritorious features, and the
description given by C. S. Crandall in " Popular Gardening"
well deserves a place here. " Our fire hot-bed," says Mr. Crandall,
" was not alone a hot-bed, but combined a small forcing house
where we could work under the glass, and a tool room twelve
feet square. Depth of excavation, and position of furnace is indicated
in illustration. The hot-bed, six feet by sixty feet,was excavated full
width, one foot deep at the chimney end and three feet at the

Length Section of Fire Hot-Bed.

other, and was fitted with frame same as for an ordinary bed.
Then narrowing the trench to two and one-half feet, it was
continued twelve feet to the furnace, where it was lowered six
feet from the surface, and continued on this level for furnace
bottom and tool room floor. Seen from above, the excavation
would appear as in next figure.

" The dotted line indicates the outline of forcing house portion.
This was 1 1 feet wide. The outer walls consist of pieces of two
by four-inch scantling set into the ground, boarded on both
sides, and the top capped with 2 by 6-inch scantling, on which
the rafters and sashes rest. These walls project above ground
about 1 8 inches, and are banked to the top on the outside with
earth. Upright pieces of scantling placed against the sides of the

TOOL ROOM

t2 X 12 FT

HOT BED 6x60 FT.

Ground Plan of Fire Hot-Bed.

trench served as supports for the rafters. Five sashes are used on
each side. The adjoining tool room wall formed one end, the
other was double-boarded down to the hot-bed frame, with which
it was connected.

Fire Hot-Beds.— 65

" The trench was boarded up as high as the ground level,
and the bottom floored over, a few inches above the flue, thus
forming a passage between the beds. The beds were covered
with boards, and on these were placed our seed and plant boxes.
In the hot-bed frame the floor made of inch-boards was laid
level, being close down to the flue near the chimney end, and
nearly two feet above it at the other end. The sides were ex-
tended above the floor 14 inches in front and 18 inches at the
back,giving slope sufficient to carry the water off the sashes.
At intervals of six feet, and alternating from side to side, spaces
were left between the floor and the sides for the passage of warm
air to the plant space above.

" On a portion of this floor earth was placed to the depth of
eight inches, and some seeds sown here, but nearly all our
plants were started in the forcing house in boxes, and as it be-
came crowded, the boxes were transferred to the hot-beds, placing
the tender sorts at the end nearest the furnace, but cabbage and
similar plants near the chimney.

" The tool room, used also for the storage of coal, potting
soil, etc., was walled with brick and covered with a shingle roof.
The furnace was built of brick. A frame with doors to fire box
and ash pit formed the front, and was set even with the inner face
of the tool room wall, and held in place by rods built into the
furnace wall. The fire box, lined with fire brick, was 30 inches
long, 15 inches wide, and 18 inches high in the centre. The ash
pit, 8 inches deep below the grates, had same width and length as
fire box. We used a single flue of 6-inch sewer pipe running
straight from furnace to chimney. This was supported on brick,
four inches from bottom of trench, and the joints were made
tight with fire clay and mortar.

" On starting the hot-bed we found a difficulty in the
excessive radiation from the flue joints nearest the furnace.
This was obviated by encasing the first twelve feet in an outer
brick flue, which was allowed to open into the air chamber under
the hot-bed. The dryness of heat obtained by this method of
heating renders necessary the maintenance of pans of water over
the furnace, and at intervals along the flue. The experience of
the year proved so clearly the utility and convenience of our
forcing house that we removed the hot-bed frame and converted
the whole length into forcing house, excavating full width of
eleven feet, and running two flues, one under each trench."

" Plants can be successfully grown in fire hot-beds, and in
many cases at less expense than in manure-heated beds. For a
forcing house, such as I have spoken of, the same sashes, the
same furnace and flues required for a hot-bed can be used. The
only difference is in the additional lumber necessary for the
frame, and the extra labor of construction. So I would suggest
5

66— How to Make the Garden Pay.

to anyone contemplating a fire hot-bed, that they carefully
calculate the cost of both hot-bed and forcing house, and then do
not let a reasonable difference in cost prevent them from choosing
to build the forcing house. Very many cheap houses of this
character, varying somewhat in construction, according to the
taste and means of the owner, are built every year. Their utility
has been demonstrated, and their cost is within the means
of gardeners who now depend entirely upon hot-beds."

I have given this detailed description, not to advise the
reader to build exactly in the same way, but to make him
acquainted with the true principles underlying the construction
and management of fire hot-beds and similar structures, general
rules which he will be wise to follow pretty closely while the
arrangement of minor details can be left to his individual taste
and preferences.

Fire hot-beds in some respects are undoubtedly a great
improvement on the old-style manure hot-beds. Yet I believe
there is still room for further improvement. Hot-water boiler
and pipes may yet play a very important part in the make-up of
the hot-bed of the future. As the old flue had to give way to
hot water and steam pipes in green-house heating, so will the
fire hot-bed have to make room for the hot-bed heated by hot
water or steam. Flues will have to go ; but it looks to me that
the hot-bed of the future may be a hot house or forcing pit, and
not a hot-bed at all. But whether the one or the other, now that
we have cheap iron furnaces, some of them self-feeders, for hot
water heating, I can see no reason why the flue beds with their
dry heat should be used. Hot water gives us an easily-controlled,
uniform and altogether unobjectionable heat, and can be used
with perfect safety, and for any purpose of forcing and plant-
growing with far less attendance than afire hot-bed will demand.
The hot-water heating system has the further advantage that it dis-
penses with deep trenches under the beds and with the frame work
needed for fire hot-beds, which is so liable to give out in conse-
quence of the supports rotting away. The only excavation worthy
the name is that for the boiler or furnace, while the pipes can be
imbedded one foot below the surface of the hot-bed soil, or other-
wise arranged in the same way as will be described for the
modern forcing house.

CHAPTER XIII.

COLD VEGETABLE HOUSES.

HOW TO BUILD AND HOW TO MANAGE THEM.
"Make the most of it."

HE management of cold frames for forcing
vegetables naturally involves considerable incon-
venient outdoor work during the season of raw
and chilly winds, cold rains and snows ; and
progressive market gardeners have sought to
relieve themselves of the unpleasant job, and at
the same time of a part of the real hard back-
aching work connected with it, by the substitution of plant
houses for plant beds. Such structures which afford glass pro-
tection not only to the crops but also to those who work among
them, have recently come in use among Eastern market garden-
ers, especially within marketing distance of the large cities near
the Atlantic Coast, and generally give entire satisfaction to the
owner, not only with respect to the personal convenience of doing
the work in them, but also from a financial standpoint. Next figure
presents a full view of a house of this kind — in reality nothing
more nor less than a piece of ground covered and enclosed by a
simple frame-work which supports a roof of common hot-bed
sashes. The sun rays and the protection that the glass affords
are the sole reliance of the grower for the heat needed to produce
his crops. Such houses, of course, will do very well in a climate
like that of the coast section from New York city southward ;
but where the winters are much longer and severer, and clear days
less the rule during the winter months, artificial heat will prob-
ably be indispensable.

The construction of the building is very simple. Each side
of the roof consists of two tiers of common (3 by 6) hot-bed
sashes, the peak being 8 feet high, making the building about
20 or 21 feet in width, and three feet for every four sashes in
length. The sides are two feet high, and made of common rough
boards (of double thickness with building paper between) nailed
from the inside to short stakes driven into the ground at suitable
intervals. Banking with earth nearly up to where the sashes
begin, is a commendable practice. The end facing south or east
is glass, while the opposite end is made of boards, preferably of

(67)

68 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

fe

2

'o
U

Cold Vegetable Houses. — 69

double thickness, like the sides, and with a layer of building paper
between. The door is tightly fitted in this end. A row of stakes
or posts capped with 2 by 3 (or 3 by 3) scantling under the

Frame of Cold Forcing House.

junction of the two tiers of sashes on each side, and a similar
support for the peak, give a solid foundation for the rafters and
sashes, and a cap for the peak completes the structure. The
frame appears as shown in illustration. The sashes are fastened
to the rafters in such a way that they can easily be taken
off to be stored away at the beginning of the warm season.
Every other one of the lower tiers should be arranged so that
it can be slid down, to give ventilation as required, and be held
in place by a simple iron button, as illustrated. I need
hardly say that it is of greatest importance to have the whole
structure snug and tight, for success depends mostly on the
effective retention and utilization of the heat accumulated. As
little as possible of it should be allowed to escape.

COST OF HOUSE. — One of my former neighbors in New Jersey
has two such houses in successful operation, and he is still adding
to his area under glass. They are forty sashes, or a little over
1 20 feet, in length each, covering at
least 2.500 square feet of tillable
ground. The 160 new sashes for
each, ready for use, were bought for
$300. The lumber and the frames STATIONARY SASH
and glass for the south end cost
about $ 100, and figuring the labor ot
putting up at another $100 (in the
present case there was no cash out-
lay connected with it, as the owner
and his help did all the work them-
selves): we have an aggregate expense of $500 for each building,
or $100 for each 5 square feet of tillable ground. The cold-frame

SLIDING SASH.

RAFTER

70 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

system, it is true, gives us about 7 square feet of glass-covered area
for the same money, but considering the waste space (near the front
side of frame for instance) and other disadvantages, the difference
in cost of the working surface is hardly worth mentioning. The
forcing house, on the other hand, gives us a comfortable place to
work in, a chance to work to best advantage in a natural position,
instead of lying over the beds on our stomachs, and to work on
days when the weather would not permit keeping the beds exposed,
or working outdoors without great inconvenience. Considering
all the points — the chances for continuous cropping, the full utili-
zation of all available space, the ease of management, and the
convenient method of planting, sowing, weeding, etc., and the
satisfaction generally which it affords — I do not hesitate to pro-
nounce the house a model of cheapness and convenience. It
may not economize the heat as well as if built lower, and in the
shape of the heated forcing houses described in next chapter,
yet its shape is preferable for many reasons. Comfort, conveni-
ence, avoidance of backache, etc., are worth as much to the
gardener as to people in other pursuits of life. The satisfaction
which the possession of such a house affords is alone worth a
good deal. There are people of means who would rather have a
more costly and more elaborate affair. These when intending
to build a forcing house, should consult agricultural architects,
and the catalogues of manufacturers of greenhouses and green-
house supplies. I have no advice for them. The house which
I have described will also be suitable for localities with longer
and colder winters, but it will need artificial heating, and this can
easily be provided by putting in a furnace and a system of hot-
water or steam pipes. Two one-inch steam, or two-inch hot-
water pipes around the sides and south end will probably give all
the heat required for the purpose of forcing hardy vegetables.

GROWING THE CROPS. — The cold house being put up and
ready for use by the first of November or December, the whole
tillable ground is made very rich by the free application of fine
compost, thoroughly spaded or forked in, with perhaps an addi-
tional top dressing of composted and thoroughly fined hen
manure. If the soil is of a clayey nature, and the compost does
not make it sufficiently porous, spread a few loads of sand over
it, and mix the whole by spading or forking over. The gardener
can afford to prepare the ground well, for his 2,500 square feet
are calculated to give larger returns in cash than a hundred times
that area of farming land can be expected to do. The first crop
to be grown, same as in cold-frame forcing, is spinach. The rows
are marked off 8 or 9 inches apart crosswise of the house, and
the seed sown in the usual way, leaving a path through the
centre from door (at north end) to rear. Watering should be

Cold Vegetable Houses. — 71

attended to when needed, and whenever done should be
thorough, so as not to require over-frequent repetition. In theory
the plants are to be thinned to 2 inches apart in the rows. In
practice they are usually left to grow as they come up ; and with
good seed, a thorougly prepared, almost perfect seed-bed, and
the water supply under entire control, the gardener can sow
thinly enough that the plants will not be unduly crowding each
other, and yet cover the entire space — for this latter, as in cold
frame management, must be the foremost aim. Stimulate the
growth by all legitimate means, give ventilation when needed,
and generally treat like plants in cold frames. Cut, barrel and
market the stuff when the demand is brisk, and prices good.

Towards the end of February, or early in March, every spot
cleared from spinach is at once prepared for the next crop, which
may be lettuce and radishes. These vegetables are planted, and
generally handled and marketed same as if grown in cold frames,
always bearing in mind that they should stand thick enough to
cover and utilize every available inch of space, yet without undue
crowding. On this point hinges the measure of success. And
don't forget the early thinning of the radishes to two inches
apart. Boston Market lettuce is yet a general favorite for glass
culture. Of radishes, the early round varieties, especially Ear-
liest Scarlet Erfurt, Round Dark Red, Maule's Earliest Scarlet,
etc., can justly be recommended for this purpose. All these,
under stimulating treatment, can be put in market in between
four and six weeks from the time of sowing, so that the house,
wholly or in part, will be ready for another crop early in April.
This next crop may be cucumbers, egg plants, tomatoes, or what-
ever promises to give best returns at the time of maturity. Cu-
cumbers (Long Green or White Spine) are usually the crop
selected. They are planted in hills five feet apart each way, leav-
ing two or three plants per hill, soon cover the entire area with
thrifty and generally healthy vines, and produce cucumbers a
number of weeks in advance of the earliest grown in open air,
hence at a time when they always bring a good price. When the
vines begin to bloom, the sashes are removed, first partly during
the day, then entirely both day and night, so that insects have
all the chances needed to fertilize (pollenize) the fruit blossoms,
and the gardener has no need of using artificial means for the
transfer of the pollen to the embryo fruit.

If tomatoes or egg plants are the crop selected, the aim must
be the same as with a cucumber crop, namely, to get the fruit
into a willing market a few weeks sooner than competition from
outdoor growers begins, thus getting the benefit of consumers'
sharpened appetites and readiness to pay a remunerative price
for the product. The Lorillard and Dwarf Champion tomatoes
are probably superior sorts for this purpose. They can

72 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

be planted reasonably close — 2J^ to 3 feet each way — and
should be trimmed to single stalk, and trained to stakes or
strings. The King of the Earlies, the earliest market tomato for
outdoor culture, although some of our best market gardeners
claim it to be the most profitable to grow, is so very poor that I
hesitate to recommend it. Placing such stuff on the market in
advance of the regular season must have a tendency to disgust
consumers with the fruit of the tomato vine from the very start,
and to make them use less of it than they would if the first taste
were wholly satisfactory. The removal of the sashes at the
proper time, as in the other case, will give the dry atmosphere
needed for *' fruit setting."

PROCEEDS FROM SEASON'S WORK. — Some of my readers will
desire to have some estimate of the money that can be realized
from the various crops produced during one season in a building
as described, and covering 2,500 square feet.

The spinach crop, if well grown, should not be less than 30
barrels. I have seen 40 barrels taken off a cold house of this
size, and am sure that 50 can be grown easily enough.
To be on the safe side we call it 30 barrels. Late in
February, or early in March, it usually brings from $2.00 to $3.50
at wholesale in the New York City market. If it nets the grower
$3.00 the crop gives him $90.00. Next comes the radish crop,
consisting of at least 5,000 bunches, netting 2 cents each, or
$100.00 in the aggregate. Lettuce, if grown instead of the
radishes, wholly or in part, will bring approximately the same
figure. The cucumber (or tomato) crop may add $75.00 more
to the net proceeds, which sum up as follows, viz. :

Spinach, 30 barrels, at $3.00 $ go oo

Radishes, 5,000 bunches, at 2 cents, 100 oo

Cucumbers, 75 °°

Total net proceeds, $265 oo

Deducting from this sum the amount of interest on invest-
ment, with $35.00, and legitimate wear and tear, with $30.00, or
$65.00 in all, we have for our season's work in the one cold house
the net amount of $200.00. In most cases the proceeds will be
larger, since I have purposely put the returns low enough, and
the expenses high enough, in order to be on the safe side in
either direction.

I will only add that the cold forcing house as here described,
is a contrivance which gives the gardener an opportunity for
employment at very fair paying rates during a time of more or
less enforced idleness, thus also enabling him to keep a good
hired man, if he has such, permanently the year round, instead of
discharging all hands at the beginning of winter, and beginning
with an entirely new set of raw hands next spring.

CHAPTER XIV.

FORCING HOUSES OR PITS.

SIMPLE, SENSIBLE STRUCTURES, SUCCESSFULLY MANAGED.

COST, CONSTRUCTION, ETC.
" What you do, do with your might."

'OW that I have told the reader in one of the
preceding chapters how to construct and manage
hot-beds, I go a step further, and advise him not
to build them. When any one wants hot-beds for
use in commercial plant and vegetable growing,
let him build the more convenient, more econom-
ically managed, and more controllable hot-houses
or rather forcing pits, which in reality are some-
what intermediate between hot-bed and hot-house, and now in
use by some of our leading market gardeners. Of elaborate,
fancy, and therefore expensive structures, I shall not speak.
Cheapness in construction of his buildings and in their operation
must always be a leading consideration with the average market
gardener, but he can combine quite a large element of conven-
ience and comfort with it. If he values convenience sufficiently
to forego for its sake slight advantages of economy, the cold
house, which I have previously described as " a model of cheap-
ness and convenience," can easily be arranged for a forcing
house as already suggested. When run as a regular hot-house,
for forcing lettuce, strawberries, cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.,
during the winter, more heat and conseqently more piping or
greater boiler capacity will be required than if used merely as
related for the cold house, but for the purposes of propagating
and plant growing, it will certainly be preferable to have the
whole system of heating pipes underground, in order to warm
the soil somewhat in the congenial fashion of the manure hot-
bed. In growing plants for sale, we consider the root the chief
part, and for root development bottom heat is essential. With
lettuce and spinach, and all the other forcing crops except rad-
ishes, the grower wants top, and is not in the least concerned
about the root, and in that case he will prefer to let the heat
come upon his plants from above, in the natural way. It is a
general principle that bottom heat favors root growth, heat from
above top growth, and we must make our arrangements in accor-
dance with the intended use of the forcing house.

(73)

74 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Economy and absolute safety will always be the weightiest
considerations with market gardeners. I think the great merits
or advantages of the hot-houses or forcing pits in use, for instance,
by my friend, Mr. Theo. F. Baker, of Cumberland County, N. J.,
and of the similar structure erected by Mr. R. Bingham, of Cam-
den, N. J., will be readily appreciated by every reader, and give
many of them a clue to the satisfactory solution of the problem :
How shall I build a hot-house ?

THE MODEL FORCING PIT. — A sectional view of the most
sensible forcing pit yet constructed is here presented, the great-
est difference in outward appearance between it and the cold-
house shown on page 68, being in the arrangement of the sashes.
In the cold-house, as described, the four tiers of sashes form a
single roof and a single building, while the sash arrangement in

Market Gardener's Forcing Pit — Sectional View.

our forcing pit divides the house in two sections lengthwise,
making, we might say, two parallel buildings of it, the roof of
each being formed by two single tiers of sashes. In the former
we had a pathway in the centre of house, ami an opportunity to
walk all over, and work upon the beds. The forcing pit, on the
other hand, has two alleys or walks (AA), one under the centre
of each roof, dug into the ground 1 8 inches wideband 18 inches
deep ; and standing in these the operator, reaching over to each
side, in same way as in any green-house, manipulates the beds
and plants. The sides of the alleys are either walled or boarded
up. The beds or " benches," as in the cold-house, are even with
the surface of the ground, but the glass is pretty close to them,
as the peak of the roofs is only 4^ feet above the level of the
ground, and consequently 6 feet from the bottom of the alleys.
The sashes should be 7 or 75^ feet long, and of any convenient
width, although the common size of hot-bed sash (3 by 6) might

Forcing Houses or Pits. — 75

be made to answer. Large-sized glass is preferable, say 12 by
1 6 inches. The sides, consisting of boards nailed to stakes,
double if possible and banked up, are only one foot from level
of ground to eaves. The width of the whole double structure is
26 feet. In the centre, at B, where the two roof sections meet,
the sashes rest on a plate or plank 2 inches thick and 12 inches
wide, gathered out ^ by 8 inches to catch and carry off the
water, and these centre planks, as shown in engraving, rest upon

Centre Plank and Support.

two rows of 2 by 3 inch posts, 2^4 feet long and 12 inches above
the beds. These posts in each row are 4 feet apart.

METHODS OF HEATING THE PIT. — -The old method of
heating by means of a brick (or similar) flue has a slight saving
in the expense of construction in its favor, but it requires a
much greater running expense, especially in the items of fuel and
attendance. Hot-water and steam heating give us superior
advantages for the one single drawback of greater cost of con-
struction, to such an extent, indeed, that the gardener who lays
the least claim to progressiveness, has only his choice between
the hot-water and the steam system. While the battle
between the advocates of hot water and those of steam is still
raging, I can state it as a fact, that either method may be made
use of with perfect success. Florists and gardeners who work
on a very extensive scale, and can afford to employ a night
watchman, generally favor the steam system, and claim that it

76 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

not only saves fuel, but also gives the operator better control of
the heat, since there is but very little of it stored up in the cir-
culation ; but nearly everybody admits that hot water is prefer-
able for small houses, especially on account of safety, the pipes
distributing heat just as long as the water in the boiler is hot,
whether actually boiling or not. From the standpoint of the
average market gardener, who has but a few thousand square
feet under glass at most, I have no objection to the heat stored
up in circulation by the hot-water system, especially since any
objection can be partly if not wholly met by the insertion of a
single stop-cock into the pipes at any place. This gives the
operator power over the circulation. When the temperature "in
the house is getting up higher than it is desired, the circulation
can at once be interrupted by turning the stop- cock, and the
whole pipe system will cool off, although not as fast as in steam
heating, yet fast enough for the purpose. The advocates of
steam always talk as if the whole heat supply of the boiler had
to be exhausted before the pipes could be cooled off, while the
use of the simple expedient spoken of really leaves the differ-
ence between the heat stored up in the circulation of the one and
that in the other system very inconsiderable.

My own preference is for hot water; but the use of a large
boiler with low pressure will render steam heating also perfectly
safe and probably satisfactory ; only be sure to have the boiler
low enough, the chimney high enough, and the pipes at such
gradual inclination from the boiler upwards, that the condensed
water will freely return to the boiler and not accumulate in any
part of the pipes. If the latter is the case, the trouble makes
itself known by what is generally termed "hammering," which is
a sound repeated at regular intervals somewhat like that made by
striking a hard article against the pipe. The use of steam
also involves a smaller outlay than that of hot water, since one-
inch pipes will do, and are often preferred for the one system,
while two-inch pipes are usually considered the smallest suitable
for the other.

The boilers used for steam heating are generally bought
second-hand, of four or five-horse power, such as have faithfully
served for high pressure, and are condemned for that purpose.
Hot-water and steam furnaces and boilers of any desired size,
from the simple self-feeding, base-burning water heater, to that
for heating buildings covering many thousands of square feet,
may be bought at reasonable figures from manufacturing firms
who make a specialty of them, as Hitchings & Co., of New
York City, and others.

MR. BAKER'S METHOD OF HEATING. — Mr. Baker's forcing
pit is constructed on the plan given on page 74, 26 feet wide by

Forcing Houses or Pits. — 77

100 feet in length. The boiler is a second-hand four or five-
horse power, and at an outside temperature of zero has to carry
about 5 pounds of steam in order to maintain a temperature of 65
to 70 degrees inside. Two-inch pipes conduct the heat from
the boiler, one line of pipe running up on each side of the house,
and both returning through the centre back to the boiler. The
furnace room is an excavation 10 feet by 12 feet, and 6 feet deep
at the north or northwest end of the house, walled up or cemented,
and covered with a roof. Length of pipe required is 450 feet.
The entire cost of a structure of these dimensions, boiler and
pipes included, amounts to $450 for the material, to which the
cost of steam-fitting by a plumber will have to be added. Any
man of ordinary intelligence can do all the rest of the work on
the house.

For the purpose of vegetable forcing, the pipes are laid all
above ground, as shown at E and B page 74. If wanted for
starting seedlings, and for general propagating purposes, how-
ever, the pipe had better be placed from 10 to 12 inches under the

Mr. Bingham's Method of Heating.

surface, encased in an ordinary 3-inch drain tile, as shown at D,
or perhaps still better in the manner employed in Mr. Bingham's
house, and shown on this page. Mr. Baker tells me that he has
been most successful in growing lettuce, radishes and such vege-
tables by running the pipes above the benches, fastened to the
outside posts, and in the centre the same way, thus heating the
air and letting it warm up the soil in Nature's own way, rather
than drive out the moisture by bottom heat, which he thinks is
the chief cause of " damping off" and of mildew.

MR. BINGHAM'S METHOD OF HEATING. — The house here
shown is constructed exactly like the one shown and described
on page 74, but 1 24 feet in length. The paths or alleys A A are
somewhat narrower so that the outside benches are 5 feet
8 inches in width. The boiler is second-handed, with upright
flues and iQ-inch grate, rated four-horse power. The direct heat
from the furnace is perfectly utilized by means of an under-

78 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

ground terra-cotta flue C, 10 inch diameter, which runs from the
boiler room to the smoke stack B at the north end. The steam
pipes are placed from 18 inches to 6 inches under the centre
of each bench, as shown in D D D D, resting on a concrete and
covered with a 5 -inch horse-shoe tile. The concrete is made
of one part Portland cement and 5 parts gravel, laid two feet
wide and two inches in thickness. Two lines of I- or i^-inch
pipe under each bench would be an improvement, but the heat
radiation is good, and the surface of the benches warmed pretty
uniformly, certainly much more so than by Mr. Baker's plan of
simply encasing the 2-inch pipe with a 3-inch tile. With the
hot-water system the distance of underground pipes from the
surface should be more uniform, but a double line of pipes in
this case is still more desirable.

While theory and the opinion of expert growers gives
preference to heating from above ground for forcing purposes,
Mr. Bingham has, practically, most excellent success with the
underground system. "The ground is thoroughly warmed
several inches deep," says Mr. B., " and retains the heat much
better than the air, which comes in contact with the cold glass.
By keeping our source of heat lower, we get a much larger per
cent, of its value than by air-heating systems. Theoretically we
claim to save 50 per cent, of heat which is wasted by other plans,
and our trial has practically proved it." This is a matter yet
open for investigation ; but in the meantime it will be advisable
to place the pipes in the cheaper, handier and entirely safe way
in use in Mr. Baker's forcing houses, when the house is
intended chiefly or wholly for forcing vegetables. There is no
objection, however, to introducing the underground system for one
of the benches, as shown at D, page 74, mainly for plant growing
and propagating purposes, as also to try forcing for the com-
parison of results between the two systems.

Provision has to be made for ventilation. The simplest
method consists in hinging every alternate outside sash, so that it
can be lifted, or in arranging it as explained for the cold plant
house, allowing every alternate outside sash to slide down or be
removed entirely. Mr. Bingham's house is also constructed in
such a way that the caps, rafters and sashes can be entirely taken
off* during the warm season, and stored in a convenient place
under shelter. At the approach of another forcing season, the
benches can thus be enriched and otherwise prepared for
cropping as easily and conveniently as beds in the open ground.

I do not think that a simpler, cheaper, and safer forcing house
could be conceived than one built on the same general principles
here described. It combines the best features of the hot-bed and
the greenhouse, and will tend to elevate the undertaking of
growing vegetables and plants during the winter and early spring

Forcing Houses or Pits. — 79

from drudgery to be dreaded to a pastime and pleasure. The
cost of heating a house of this kind is inconsiderable — a few
tons of coal go a great ways, and the management of the furnace
is so simple that any boy can tend it. The vegetable crops are
grown in the same way as described for the hot-beds. Lettuce
is the first crop, and can be gotten ready for market from
Christmas on. This is followed by radishes, or any other
vegetable which the market may usually call for, or by straw-
berries, and perhaps later on, by egg-plants, tomatoes, peppers,
etc. Boston Market, a strain of Tennis Ball, is yet considered
the safest lettuce variety for early winter forcing. Mildew and
aphis (or green louse) are the two dreaded enemies of the crop,
and must be fought with the means named in the chapter on
" Insects and Plant Diseases,"

CHAPTER XV.

EARLY PLANTS FOR THE HOME GARDEN.

VARIOUS MEANS AND DEVICES FOR EVERYBODY.
"A will — a way."

|OR the average-sized kitchen garden only a
comparatively very small number of early plants
are needed, so few, indeed, that people often
come to the conclusion it is cheaper to buy
them than to raise them, especially when plants
are to be had as cheap as they are now. Yet we
cannot always, nor even often, get what we want.
Professional plant-growers frequently are very
careless about the seeds they sow. The plants are for sale, and
a tomato plant will sell, if well grown, no matter what fruit it
will produce afterwards. So in the purchase of plants we
always run a risk, and at best have to deal with uncertainties.
Then we may wish to try a new tomato, or pepper, or egg-
plant, etc., and plants of high-priced novelties cannot often be
purchased. Furthermore, while poor plants, grown in crowded
hot-beds, and consisting of much stalk and little root, are
abundant and cheap, really first-class, well-grown, well-rooted
and well-hardened plants are generally rare, always dear, and
often not on sale. Take it on the whole, therefore, I think
every home gardener who takes the least interest in his garden,
will of necessity have to dabble in the business of plant growing.
He can go at it in a variety of ways.

Where a sunny kitchen window is at disposal for the
purpose, some tomato, pepper and egg-plants can easily be
started in a box or in boxes placed in front of it, as shown in
illustration. A common soap box, obtained from the nearest
grocer will furnish material for two or three such boxes. Suitable
soil is prepared by mixing one-third of well-rotted compost and
two-thirds sandy loam or rich garden soil, and of course it should
be got in readiness in the autumn before the ground freezes. The
boxes are filled with this nearly to the top, and the seeds sowed
thinly in shallow furrows. Each variety should be plainly labelled,
or the name written on outside of box facing each row. Sift a
little sandy loam, leaf mould or pulverized dried peat moss upon
the seeds, pat it down gently to firm the seed, then water with
(80)

Early Plants for the Home Garden. — 81

hot water from a fine rose sprinkler, and as often afterwards with
tepid water as the soil becomes dry, and needs it. Thus treated
the young plants should make their appearance in about a week's
time. A few cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce plants may be
grown in a similar way, but the box should be set in a colder
room, or in a less sunny exposure. It generally falls to the lot
of the good housewife to care for such plant boxes, and in most
cases she will enjoy the task. The chief aim must be to make
the plants strong and stocky by giving each sufficient space, and
thin out the surplus at an early stage of development. Tall,
over-grown things are not desirable. Where there is sufficient
window room, and if possible, any way, the plants should be
transplanted once or twice, and more space given at each time.
Nothing is more servicable than empty tomato cans (with a hole
punched in the bottom) for setting
in tomato and egg plants, one in
each, from there to be trans-
planted to the open ground.
The true lover of a good garden,
and the man who has a large
family to supply with vegetables,
will sorely miss the convenience
and aid of a hot-bed, and the best
thing for him to do is to invest
the amount of $4.00 or $6.00
in sashes, and put up a little
frame. The excavation may be
made for only one-half or two-
thirds of the bed, if this is three
sashes in size, so that a part of it
is managed as hot-bed, and the
other as cold frame. Plants must
be ranged according to their
degree of tenderness, and begin-
ning at the hot-bed end, as fol-
lows : egg-plant, pepper; tomato, cauliflower, cabbage and lettuce;
and ventilation given more freely and frequently on the cold
frame side than on the other. For directions as to general
management I can only refer the reader to Chapters X and XL
The well-to-do home gardener who can afford to spend a
little time and money for the privilege of running a miniature
green-house or forcing pit, which will not only give him an
abundance of plants such as he may desire, but also a chance to
raise a few nice, crisp vegetables in the winter months, may
construct a building, answering one of the two sections of the
forcing pit described in preceding chapter. Such structure is
here shown, and will need no detailed explanation. Hot water
(6)

Plant Box in Window.

82 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

will be found the proper method of heating, and a base-burning
water heater that manufacturers furnish for from $25.00 upwards,
will do good service.

The people of Hammonton, New Jersey, use a boiler of this
kind for heating the brooders in their chicken houses, and it may
be arranged ^^O^HU^.

somewhat in
the same man-
ner, and as
shown in next
figure. When
the house is
all made snug
and tight, and
where winters ;|j
are not ex-
ceedingly
severe, it
seems that a
single pipe for
each bench, Amateur Green-House.

either in an air-chamber under it to provide bottom heat, or near
the outside would be fully sufficient.

To make the arrangement perfectly clear, I will say that the
barrel B is used merely to give pressure to the water in the stove ;
C is the faucet for drawing water from the barrel ; D the faucet
for emptying water out of stove, pipes and barrels. E is a cock
for letting out air from the pipes in order to prevent it from
interfering with the water circulation. F and G are cocks by
which the connection between stove and water pipes can be broken.

If one of them is shut, the
circulation stops, and the
pipes will gradually cool off.
If it should be desired to
heat or boil the water in the
barrel, it can be done by
shutting off the two cocks,
F and £, and opening the
one in the vertical pipe lead-
ing from the upper heating
pipe to the barrel, thus com-
pleting the water circulation
through boiler and barrel.
Base-burning Water Heater and An arrangement of this
Arrangement of Pipes. kind, simple and inexpen-

sive as it is, sometimes may come handy, even if not entirely
necessary for the regular purpose of green-house heating.

CHAPTER XVI.

DRAINAGE.

WHERE NEEDED AND HOW DONE.
" The ability to overcome obstacles is a certain guarantee of success."

HE best garden soil — that adapted for the
production of early vegetables, and composed of
a dark, sandy loam resting on a porous subsoil
— needs no artificial drainage. My experience
with red sandy subsoil in New Jersey was highly
satisfactory. The soil water moves freely up
and down through subsoil of this character, and
the air has a chance to warm it deeply and
quickly. The possession of such land (without a single under-
drain on it) gives advantages against which the proprietor of
clayey loam underlaid with stiff blue clay will find it utterly
impossible to compete successfully, no matter how much money
he may expend for drainage. Whatever may be said in favor or
greater fertility and the retentiveness of clayey loam, and the
leachy character of " lighter" soil, the fact remains that vege-
tables grown on the former will be days if not weeks later than
on the latter. This only shows the importance of selecting a
more or less sandy loam with porous subsoil for general garden-
ing purposes, and of steering entirely clear of clay on clay
foundation. Muck resting upon blue clay meets with the same
objection. Still such cooler soils, when properly drained, can
generally be utilized with advantage for certain crops, such as for
instance, onions and celery. If a piece of such land belonging
to the gardener is yet in an undrained condition, he should lose
no time to make it available, and often exceedingly profitable by
preparing a thorough system of drainage. In some cases an
otherwise fine garden soil is underlaid with a fairly porous loam
which, however, offers some obstruction to the free passage of
surface water. Then drainage will improve it wonderfully, and
perhaps render it equal to the best garden land in earliness and
productiveness.

The first concern is to find an outlet 2^/2 to 4 feet below the
lowest part of the field, as a starting point for the main ditch
that is to be carried right along the lowest line of the surface
across the whole field, with a gradual rise of not less than

(83)

84 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

J^-inch (more is better) to the rod. The laterals begin from this
main, are 2 or 2^ rods apart, and closer if it can be afforded
or is thought necessary, 3 to 4 feet in depth, and also rise
gradually at least ^-inch to the rod. As the only object is to
places the tiles into the bottom, we have no need for wide
ditches, and in order to save labor, aim to make them as narrow
as possible. With the improved ditching tools now on sale in
every hardware store, such drains can be cut quite conveniently
to the depth of 4 feet with only one foot across on top and
6 inches at the bottom. The work is begun with common spade,
shovel and if needed pick-axe, perhaps with the assistance of a

common plow and subsoil plow; but
the last 12 inches of depth are dug
with the long narrow spade shown at
the left in engraving, and the finishing
touches given with the draining scoop
shown in centre of same figure. This
scoop, which is drawn towards the
operator, only finishes the perfect
cleaning out of the bottom, correcting
faulty grade, etc. , and leaves a concave
bed for the tile. Scoops of this kind
are made in different sizes to fit the
tile. Too much care cannot be be-
stowed on the grading. To secure
perfect working order, and durability
of the drains, their every part should
have a slight incline towards the out-
let ; and everything that might tend
to obstruct the continuous flow of
water in the tiles must be carefully
Set of Draining Tools. guarded against. Common sense in
the whole matter must dictate the details, and will be found a
safe guide throughout.

SIZE OF TILES. — The amount of water that runs off in an
even and continuous stream, after the first rush from the newly
ditched field, determines the size of tile. Two-inch tile are
generally preferable for the lateral drains, while the main must
have a size fully capable of carrying off the water that collects
from the laterals above, at the time of greatest supply. The flow
from a well-arranged system of underground drains, when in
perfect working order, is pretty nearly uniform through the whole
year, only of greater volume in winter than in summer. For water
containing iron larger sizes are necessary, as the deposits adhere,
and are liable to fill up the tile after awhile. The extreme upper
end of the main, for a short distance, may be arranged as a lateral,
and laid with small tile, but it should then be made larger by using

Drainage. — 85

3 or4~inch tile, and for the lower half or one-third 6-inch andperhaps
even larger sizes may be necessary. The number and length of
laterals, and amount of water passing through them, determines
this question.

LAYING THE TILES. — Next to perfect grading of the bottom,
the effectiveness and permanency of the whole draining operation
depends on the careful laying of the tiles. The work should never
be entrusted to a raw hand, unless the latter is endowed with an
unusual amount of common sense, skill and intelligence. It is
much safer to employ a man used to such work, and pay him
good wages by the day, not by the rod or job. It is not safe to
run the least risk of having this important job slighted. Laying
the tile should follow immediately upon the levelling (grading)
of the bottom, and in order to perform this task without stepping
into the ditch, a six foot pole with a % inch iron rod fastened to
the end and bent in the form of an elbow, is used to handle section

Tile on Soft Bottom.

Tile on Clay Bottom.

after section of tile, and placing it in its proper place. The ends
should be closely fitted together, and clay subsoil firmly packed
around them to hold them in their place, until the ditches can be
filled up again to the top. Fine surface soil or anything that will
decay, should not be put immediately in contact with the tiles.
It is also essential that the point of discharge in the laterals
should be a few inches above the level of the main, to insure a
good flow. It is obvious that the tile can be laid directly upon
the bottom of the ditch when the subsoil is perfectly hard and
solid, especially if of stiff clay. Soft muck or quicksand in the
bottom of drains makes it necessary to rest the tiles upon a line
of narrow (6 inch) boards placed in the drain, as here illustrated.
In some instances' tile cannot be readily obtained, at least not
without paying heavy transportation expenses, and other means

86 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

of constructing the drain have to be found. I have used board
troughs with excellent results. The poorest kind of lumber may
be utilized for this purpose. Two boards are nailed together at
right angles, and held firmly in place by strips nailed diagonally
across. Such troughs may be placed directly upon a carefully-
graded, hard, stiff clay bottom, or upon a line of boards placed
upon soft bottom, in same way as the tile. Stones and pebbles,
where plentiful, can be used to good advantage also; but to get a
properly constructed drain with such material, the inexperienced
owner will always find it safest and cheapest to have the work
done by somebody that understands it. Tile is always best, and
drains thus made will be of more lasting value. All stone drains
are quite liable to get choked up after awhile, since it is almost
impossible to keep the soil from washing and working among the
stones, and finally fill up the throat.

THE ADVANTAGES OF UNDERDRAINING. — As one of the most
beneficial results of good underdraining on many soils, the crops
are given more root room. The roots of almost all our garden

crops (and field crops
also) thrive in moist soil,
but not in that which is
wet or water-logged, and
they are stopped when
they come to the soil
water. Underdraining
lowers the soil water
level, allows the roots to
go deeper, and therefore

gives them more room to
Board Trough In Bottom of Drain. WQrk fn Each plant

needs a certain amount or weight of soil for its best development.
If it can feed deeper it will not require as much surface, and hence
plants in well-drained soil can be planted closer than in undrained
land. But good drainage gives still other benefits. It warms the
soil by admitting air more freely, lengthens the season at both
ends, and by promoting the circulation of air and moisture,
furnishes chances for chemical action by which insoluble plant
food is rendered available.

But, after all, tile drains, if ever so well laid, cannot be
expected to last forever, and often they give out quite unex-
pectedly, making it necessary to take up parts of them for
repairs In an emergency of this kind it is quite convenient to
know the exact location of every drain, and to be able to find it
without having to dig over a large area. A map showing the
location of every tile drain put down, with distances marked in
rods and feet, will be of great advantage, and a valuable assist-
ance sooner or later.

CHAPTER XVII.

IRRIGATION.

SURFACE-SOAKING AND SUB-EARTH FLOODING.
" More powerful than art is Nature."

RRIGATION, while a necessary and common practice
under the rainless skies near the Pacific coast, is
hardly ever thought of at the east. I have made a
few trials on a somewhat limited scale, and the
results fully convinced me that the chances are not
rare where the eastern gardener might employ some
system of irrigation with as telling effect. The first
requisite, of course, is a sufficient water supply, one
which can be controlled or made available without great
expense. The amount of liquid needed for thorough work — and
this alone gives satisfactory results — is so immensely large, that
I have little respect for any source of supply of less magnitude
than a pond or small stream. I cannot do better than quote
from a paper read before the American Horticultural Society,
by Mr. J. M. Smith, Wisconsin's noted and successful gardener,
and President of the Wisconsin State Horticultural Society :
"A few things should be remembered by those who contemplate
artificial watering. Suppose that you have one acre of cabbage
that you wish to water. To do this fairly well requires at least
30,000 gallons of water, and this will need to be repeated at least
once a week until rain comes. To make strawberries do their
best in dry weather, requires considerably more than for
cabbages, and to be put on oftener. To merely sprinkle the
ground when it is very dry, is, in my opinion, a damage rather
than a benefit. It has a tendency to form a thin, hard crust,
both air- and water-tight. Neither the damp air nor the rains
will pass through it, neither will a light shower. It requires a
heavy rain to dissolve it. Thus you shut out the benefits to be
derived from the cool, damp night air, the. heavy dews that we
often have, also the little sprinkles of rain that are almost sure to
come occasionally. For a couple of years after my water-works
were put up, I was at a loss to understand why our watering had
so little effect. I had a piece of early cabbage that was suffering
for want of rain. The men were told to put on water until the
ground was thoroughly soaked for at least six inches deep. They

(87)

88— How to Make the Garden Pay.

did so, and I learned two things by it. One was that a thorough
watering would make the plants grow; the other was that it
took a great deal of water to make it thorough.

" Hence if you water at all, do it well. No system of arti-
ficial watering that I have ever tried is equal to rain from the
clouds. I do not state these things to discourage any one, but
because I believe them to be facts that should be known to those
who contemplate some improvements of this kind. My water-
works cost me nearly $1,000, and I have no doubt but that they
have more than once paid for themselves in a single season."

Where a pond or other body of water is available, so that a
stream can be run directly to the highest line of the field, irriga-
tion is a very simple matter. Make light furrows down the slope,
8 or 10 feet apart, between the rows of plants, and let the water
run down in one after another, long enough in each, to soak up
the ground pretty thoroughly to the lower end, before turning

Slope Sub-irrigated after Cole's method.

off the flow into the next furrow. The application should not
(or need not) be repeated until the ground becomes quite dry
again, but it is absolutely necessary for best results, and lasting
effects of the operation, to cultivate the ground thoroughly just
as soon as the surface is again dry enough for such work. Always
make the water channels in the higher places, and the lower ones
are apt to take care of themselves. In irrigating a J acre lot of
celery one season, between 6,000 and 8,000 gallons of water
were needed to give the ground one thorough soaking, but this
had a most excellent effect on the plants.

SUB-IRRIGATION. — Another system often mentioned but
rarely employed, is that of placing tiles in close, parallel, shallow
ditches all through the field, so the tiles are just out of reach of
the plow, and then introduce the water from some source into
these tiles, one line, after another, soaking up the land from below

Irrigation. — 89

the surface, otherwise in the same fashion as by surface irrigation.
Reports of wonderful crops produced on slopes of soil by
no means rich, under a new system called by the inventor (A. N.
Cole) " aquaculture " (water culture), or new agriculture, have
recently attracted considerable attention ; but since this method
is quite expensive, and possible only under certain conditions,
namely, on a slope with impervious clay subsoil, it is not of
general utility, nor excessively meritorious. Mr. Cole gives the
following description of it : " A ditch is opened on a water level
along the hillside or slope, say a yard wide, and from three to
five feet deep. At the bottom of this ditch are loosely placed
cobble and blocky stones, for a loot or two, then flat stones are
laid over these, then a quantity of smaller stones ; these are
covered over with weeds, briars, brambles, fine brush, straw,
corn stalks or other available material, to prevent the fine earth
from falling among and filling the crevices between the stones.
A heavy coating ot manure may follow, and then the excavated
soil is spread over it, and a terrace is graded if desired. What-
ever course the trench may take, the surface of the hard pan at
the bottom of the ditch must never vary from a water level. A
series of such ditches, one above the other, are dug a rod or so
apart and similarly filled, over as large a surface as is to be
improved, each forming an elongated reservoir which will be filled
by the water-courses cut off, or by the melting snows and early
rains ; and if the subsoil is firm clay, or hard pan, it will be
retained, and as the surface soil dries, absorbed by capillary
action, and brought within reach of the roots of vegetation.

" The connecting overflow trenches should be in the subsoil,
and filled with fine stone to the depth of a foot at least, and
shingled with flat stones in the same manner as the reservoir
trenches. This shingling should be of sufficient depth to escape
the plough or the deepest spading. The head of the overflow
trenches at the base of the slope should be at least twelve or
eighteen inches above the bottom of the reservoir."

Cross-section of slope thus sub-irrigated is presented in
engraving. A is the surface soil ; B, the reservoir trenches ; C,
the sub-soil ; D, the connecting overflow trenches (which might
be laid with tile, where that can be had conveniently and cheaply),
and E, the outlet of drainage trench. I have given this for
information more than in the expectation that many readers will
make practical use of it.

CHAPTER XVIII.

INSECTS AND OTHER FOES.

THEIR WAYS OF DOING MISCHIEF AND HOW TO KEEP THEM IN CHECK.
" Eternal Vigilance — the Price.1'

F all the obstacles to the successful production of
choice garden vegetables, none has ever shown itself
in a more serious aspect than the multiplication
of injurious insects. The problem how to get rid
of them often sorely puzzles the ingenuity of even
the best gardener. Frequently our plants come
up nicely, and we are pleased with their apparent
health and thrift, and perhaps pride ourselves on our skill ; only
to find, at our very next visit to the garden, soon after, that the
whole plantation is badly damaged, if not already ruined beyond
any chance of recovery, by an unexpected attack of insect foes.
Occasionally we have to admit our utter defeat.

The question how to deal with insects is a serious problem.
The best of talent has been, and still is, engaged in the attempt
to find a satisfactory solution. Columns upon columns on the
subject have of late been published by the agricultural press.
Lectures upon lectures on insect lore have been delivered by
specialists, and bulletin upon bulletin touching upon this matter
are issued by the Experiment Stations, and sent out by the
thousand, and yet I am asked more questions on " insects and
what to do for them," than on any other subject. So I will
endeavor to give pretty plain and full instructions.

As a general rule it may be stated that the most satisfactory,
and often the only effective measures are those of a preventive
character or tendency. The aim should be to keep our crops
entirely out of reach or observation by their insect foes, and
success in this can more generally and more easily be achieved
by a judicious system of rotation ("wide" rotation, as I am
tempted to call it), than by the application of drugs, etc. The
gardener knows, or should know, the exact location of the
breeding places of the various bugs and beetles. Where their
food plants had been grown the year before, right there we may
confidently expect to see the foes reappear this season. In last
year's cabbage and radish patches the flea beetle will be
found plentiful this year ; and where we had cucumber and squash
vines then, we will find the yellow-striped squash beetle, the black

(90)

Insects and Other Foes. — 91

squash bug, etc. Wherever circumstances allow, therefore, each
crop should be planted at considerable distance from any place
where the same or a similar crop was grown the year before.
This practice, although it may not prevent insect visits entirely,
must at least put enough of the depredators off the track to
materially moderate the amount of damage coming from that
source. For the home garden, and for smaller operations
generally, such a course cannot often be followed, and other
means of protection have to be sought.

Foremost among preventive measures stands the often
employed practice of hiding the plants, in boxes or open frames,
or under mosquito netting, or by surrounding them with other
quicker-growing plants (buckwheat, beans, etc.), which not only
serve as a screen, but also disguise their scent. Strong-smelling
substances, such as carbolic acid, kerosene, turpentine, etc., are
also quite frequently used to hide the natural scent of the exposed
plants, thus removing one of the chief means by which insects
are enabled to find their food plants. Another quite common
preventive consists in covering the endangered plants with some
substance (plaster, lime, etc.), that is distasteful to their enemies,
and this, unless they come in excessive numbers, or are
exceedingly hungry, is often effective in driving them off. Either
hand-picking and mashing, or poisoning, must be resorted to
where preventives cannot be employed, or have not proven
effective. That all the natural enemies of our injurious insects —
birds, toads, snakes, cannibal insects, such as the useful and pretty
little ladybird, the colosoma (ground or tiger beetle), the soldier
bug, etc. — should be encouraged and given shelter, need hardly
be mentioned. A list of the most destructive and common
insect enemies and the most improved ways of preventing their
mischief, will be found in the following :

ANTS (Formica], — Although not generally directly destruc-
tive to garden vegetables, they are sometimes quite obnoxious
in consequence of their manner of throwing up hills. Destroy
their nests by pouring boiling water, or hot strong alum water
over the hills. The ants can also be trapped very easily by
placing a coarse sponge moistened with sweetened water near
their haunts, thus attracting them in large numbers. When the
sponge is black with the creatures, throw it into boiling water;
then wash it out and reset the trap. Poisoned molasses placed
near their haunts, will also soon make an end to their existence.

APHIS OR PLANT LOUSE. — Of the hundreds of species of green,
black, and blue aphis in existence, quite a number are trouble-
some to the gardener. Fortunately the whole tribe is quite
tender ; and lettuce, cabbages and cauliflowers seriously infested,
perhaps almost wholly covered by these lice, are sometimes
entirely cleared of them by a cold spell or a hard rain, etc , and

g2 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

for this reason their injury to such crops in the open ground is
less feared and serious than to those under glass, where they
often become a real source of danger.

In tobacco we have a simple preventive and remedy. Apply
tobacco dust freely, both directly to the soil, as a means of
prevention, and upon the infested plants as a cure. Strong tobacco
tea, made by steeping tobacco stems in water, if sprinkled or
sprayed on plants, will also quickly rid them of lice. Fumigation
(burning dampened tobacco stems two or three times a week) is
quite generally practiced, and universally successful as a preventive
measure in greenhouse culture.

A simple and effective remedy for this and other injurious
insects is the kerosene emulsion, made by churning one quart of
soft soap (or one quarter pound of whale-oil soap), one pint of

kerosene oil, and two
quarts of water, until a
perfect union or emulsion
is formed. The operation
of churning can be per-
formed in an easy and
convenient manner by the
use of a good force pump,
forcing the liquid back
into the vessel containing
it. The emulsion should
be diluted with two gallons
of water, and applied with
a force pump and spray
nozzle over the infested
plants. The fine spray
makes the operation eco-
nomical as well as safe,
and if thrown with suffi-
cient force, is more liable
to touch all lice. It is
sure to kill eggs as well as
lice.

ASPARAGUS BEETLE
(Creoceris asparagi] — .An
Asparagus Beetle, Larva and Egg. asparagus branch infested
with this comparatively new insect enemy in its different stages
of development, natural size, with enlarged specimen of beetle
and larva at the lower right hand corner, is here shown. This
insect has a natural enemy in the cat-bird, which feeds on both
beetles and larvae, and sometimes greatly reduces their number.
Dusting the infested plants when wet with dew, with air-slacked
lime on a quiet morning, is probably the simplest, and a reason-

Insects and Other Foes. — 93

ably sure remedy. Hand-picking is a rather tedious operation,
and only practicable in a small patch. Cutting the affected tops,
removing and burning them is often practiced with good effect.
Dusting with tobacco dust, or spraying with the kerosene emul-
sion, are also reasonably safe remedies.

BEAN WEEVIL (Bruchus obsoletus). — This insect has become
a really more formidable foe to the grower of beans, peas, and
other leguminous plants, than even its much larger relative, the
pea weevil. It devours the seeds of nearly all plants of the
pulse family with apparent equal relish, but is easily enough
managed. Simply throw the beans or peas as soon as gathered
and threshed for a few seconds into boiling water. This will
kill the larvae of either weevil contained in them. Seed beans
and peas should always be treated in this way to guard against
injury to the next crop. Old seed is always free from bugs, and
by its use all danger of carrying the pest to new fields in the seed
is averted. It may be a good plan to tie up beans and peas
intended for seed tightly and securely in stout paper bags, and to
keep them over without opening the bags, until the second year.
The bugs will then have died without living issue. The larvae
can also be destroyed by exposing the seeds in a closed vessel,
box or barrel, to the fumes of turpentine, or bisulphide of
carbon, or by mixing with them a small quantity of fresh insect
powder.

The Ohio Experiment Station finds that the exposure of
the infested seed for one hour to a temperature of 145 degrees
Fahrenheit destroys the larvae without injuring the germinative
quality of the seed. An ordinary gasoline stove oven, with a
lighted kerosene lamp beneath it, was used in conducting the
experiments. Only a very small flame is needed to produce the
required amount of heat. To be of most benefit, this remedy
must be applied as soon as possible after the beans or peas are
fully ripe.

CABBAGE PLUSIA (sometimes called green lettuce worm). — It
is the caterpillar of a pretty moth (Plusia Brassicce), and sometimes
does serious injury to cabbage, lettuce, celery, endive, sage and
some flowers. It is a ravenous eater, and in cabbages and lettuce
bores clear through to the hearts, and prefers to feed from the
inside rather than the outside. For this reason it is not so easily
reached with insecticides as the green cabbage worm. Try
buhach and careful hand picking.

CABBAGE MAGGOT. — See Radish Fly.

CABBAGE WORM. — The larva of the cabbage butterfly (Pieris
raphce), shown on next page, has for many years been the
most serious obstacle to the home production of cabbages, and
yet few insect foes are so easily kept in check as this. The
butterfly is double-brooded. The first brood is seen flitting about

94 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

the fields in May, the second in August, and the progeny of
the latter causes the most trouble.

The sovereign remedy for this pest is fresh Pyrethrum pow-
der, generally called Persian or Dalmatian insect powder. The
imported article, when in full strength, is perfectly reliable, but
\ f when stale (and this is the usual

condition of the powder on sale in
drug stores) gives rather uncertain
results. Buhach is a California
product, the ground flower of
Pyrethrum cinerariczfolium, gen-
erally fresh, and put up in tight
tin cans, and in my experience has
never failed to give entire satisfac-
tion. While the imported article

Butterfly of the Cabbage Worm,

may be bought for less money, pound for pound, the California
product, on account of greater strength and certain death-dealing
effect, is by far the cheaper in the end, and every gardener should
try to get buhach in preference to the common insect powder.

The remedy can be applied in various ways. When to be
used in liquid form, take a tablespoonful of the pure powder, and
with a little water work it into a paste, then dilute with two
gallons of water, and sprinkle it on the plants with a watering
pot, or still better, apply in a fine spray with considerable force,
so that every worm will be reached.

A very convenient mode of application for the home garden
is that in dry form, by means of a simple dusting apparatus or
pocket rubber bellows, as for instance shown in illustration. This,

Simple Powder Bellows.

or a similar and just as effectual one, can undoubtedly be had of
our friend, Win. Henry Maule, of Philadelphia, Pa., or most other
seedsmen, at a mere nominal price. During the summer months
I generally carry one of the bellows charged with a mixture of
one part of buhach, and four or five of flour or air-slacked lime
in my pocket, and apply a few puffs here and there, wherever I
notice the effects of cabbage or similar worms. That puts a
sudden stop to their mischief. The whole matter is so simple,
inexpensive and certain, and requiring so little time or effort,
that I would hardly give any man 10 cents to insure me perfect
immunity from worms for each 100 head of cabbages.

Insects and Other Foes. — 95

When we have at hand a remedy so highly effective and
satisfactory as buhach, there is absolutely no reason why we
should search for other means, and I believe it is simply fooling
away time to experiment with hot water, ice water, solutions of
saltpetre or alum, or with pepper, road dust, or the many other
remedies of like nature recommended. Mr. A. S. Fuller also
reports that he has had the very best success in killing the worms
by sprinkling the infested plants with tar water.

CELERY WORM. — The caterpillars found on celery, parsley,
etc., which are the progeny of the asterias butterfly (Papilio
asterias} can be got rid of by the remedies recommended for the
cabbage worm ; but since they are hardly ever numerous, I have
always disposed of them by hand-picking.

CORN OR BOLL WORM (Heliothis armigera}. — The moth of this,
like the cabbage butterfly, is double-brooded ; the first brood
generally attacking the very early varieties of sweet and other
corn varieties, and the second brood doing
considerable damage to the late varieties, so
that the intermediate sorts usually escape
altogether. The fruit of tomatoes, bean and
pea pods, and vine fruits are also occasion-
ally attacked. The only remedy that prom-
ises relief, is to hand-pick the first brood of
larvae, found on early sweet corn, and to
destroy them, thereby rendering the attacks
of the subsequent brood less serious. It is
sometimes recommended to bait and catch
(drown) the moths by means of a mixture of molasses and vinegar.
CUCUMBER BEETLE (Diabrotica vittatd}. — Of all the insects
in the garden, the little creature that wears a yellow-striped suit,
and troubles young cucumber, melon, squash and pumpkin plants
is probably the worst, and difficult to deal with. Hiding away

the whole patch so the
beetles cannot easily
find it, by changing
location (the "wide
rotation " spoken of)
is yet one of the very
best methods ; but this
cannot well be prac-
ticed in the home gar-
den, and here we may often adopt the plan of hiding away
individual plants or hills, either by placing a simple frame or
bottomless box around them, as here illustrated, or by
covering them with muslin-covered plant protectors, or with
little pieces of muslin fastened down to the ground at the four

Corn, Boll or Cotton
Worm.

Frame for Protecting Young Vines.

96 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

corners, or by similar devices. A ring of buckwheat or beans
sown around the vines when the latter are planted, is another
expedient sometimes employed for the purpose of hiding the
vines. The period of danger is only while the plants are young,
especially in seed-leaf, and. our first aim should be to push the
plants by rich stimulating food, liquid manuring, if needed, past
the stage when they are liable to ruinous attacks.

The young plants are so tender and succulent, and there is
so little of them, that the first visit of a number of striped beetles
usually means little less than destruction to the victims. Treat-
ment must positively be begun in advance of the insects' first
appearance.

The usual method, suited especially for larger plantations,
but having considerable merit for the home garden also, consists
in keeping the plants from the day they first begin to break
ground until they are beyond the period of danger, well covered
with plaster or bone dust The coating must be renewed
promptly whenever washed off by rains or heavy dews. Air-
slacked lime is sometimes used, but it is always risky, on account
of its still caustic nature. In all cases where plaster is made to
serve as insect repeller, I would prefer to have it flavored with
carbolic acid, by mixing a pint of the crude article with a bushel
of plaster. The acid can do no possible harm, and it always
adds to the effectiveness of plaster or air-slacked lime.

Another equally meritorious remedy is the following : Mix
a tablespoonful of kerosene in two quarts of plaster, sifted wood
ashes, or bone flour, rubbing it with the hands until the oil is
well distributed, then sprinkle this over the vines, and repeat as
often as required. It is also worth while to try this trick of
repelling the marauders by placing little heaps of ashes, saturated
with kerosene, turpentine, or carbolic acid, or pieces of corn-cobs,
soaked in coal tar, among the vines to be protected. Should the
insects find the vines in spite of all precautions, we yet have a
remedy to apply, and this consists in spraying the vines with a
weak solution of Paris green at the rate of 1 5 gallons of water
to one ounce of poison. Apply in a fine spray, so that the
poisonous liquid will reach the upper and lower surfaces of every
leaf, and the stems also. If a spraying apparatus is not at hand,
a small quantity of poison may be mixed with the plaster or bone
dust, and applied dry.

CUT WORMS (Agrotis). — A large number of species of cut
worms make themselves highly obnoxious to the gardener by
the impudence with which they attack and cut down almost
every kind of newly-set plants. They are mostly clumsy and
greasy-looking caterpillars of some dull shade of color (grayish,
brown, greenish), remain in their hiding places on bright days,
and come to the surface at night or in cloudy weather, to seek

Insects and Other Foes. — 97

what green stuff they can devour. The illustration presents both
worm and moth of one of the species.

Cut Worm — Moth and Larva.

Fortunately these worms have many natural enemies,
among them the robin, thrushes, quailf wren and other birds,
toads, etc., which together keep their numbers down quite well.
Fall plowing serves to bring many of the worms to the surface,
and to expose them to " bird's-eye view " and perhaps to
destruction by frost.

The fresh effects of their night's work can best be noticed
bright and early in the morning, and they can then be found near
the place of mischief, hunted up and killed. Before a piece of
plowed ground is planted, we can often dispose of the majority
of the worms by placing pieces of sod, sprinkled with a
poisonous solution, at regular intervals over the ground. The
remedy is simple, and may be repeated, thus making the way
clear for setting plants. Beans are sometimes planted for bait,
and in advance of the real crop, whatever that may be. The
field is looked over on several mornings after the beans are up
and the worms hunted up where plants are seen cut off. The
regular crop is planted after most of the worms are destroyed.
A practice often resorted to, is to encircle
each plant to be set out, with a piece of
paper, which should reach down into the soil,
as the worm cannot crawl under it, and extend
several inches above the surface, so it cannot
crawl over it.

The picture shows how this is done, and
how the plan works. I often use plant pro-
tectors somewhat resembling bottomless flower
pots, which I had made for the purpose, as a
mechanical obstacle to the cut worm's progress.

FLEA BEETLE (Halticd). In this we have
another, and often a very troublesome enemy.
On soil where cabbage, radishes or turnips were grown the year
before, or in the vicinity thereof, these little jumping things
appear often in such numbers, that it is difficult to make headway
against them. Change of location is, therefore, to be recom-

Cut Worm and Pro-
tected Plant.

98 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

mended as the chief preventive measure. Ordinarily we can
succeed in preventing serious damage to our young plants of the
Brassica family, by dusting them, when first appearing above
ground, with plaster, air-slacked lime, sifted wood ashes, soot,
tobacco dust, or in fact any dust-like material. When the beetles
appear in very large numbers, and consequently are very hungry,
mere grit will not repel them, and a little admixture of Paris
green — one part to a hundred parts of plaster — to such appli-
cations will be necessary. The insect is hardy and resistant
enough not to appear to be inconvenienced by even the best of
buhach in full strength, nor by strong vapors of naphtaline.
Little chicks will catch these insects in great quantities, and so
will toads when they happen to come across an infested patch.

Of late these insects have appeared in vast numbers in our
potato fields, and often entirely ruin the foliage, greatly reducing
the crop of tubers. The only remedy that thus far has seemed
to give relief, is spraying the vines freely with a strong decoction
of tobacco stems or dust. Very likely, also, the free use of
dry tobacco dust may drive these beetles away.
GRUBS — White. See May Beetle.
MAGGOT — Cabbage, Onion, etc. See Onion Fly.
MAY BEETLE. (Lachnosterna) In the perfect or beetle
state, this does not usually damage the gardener's crops very
seriously; but its larva, the well known
and much feared " white grub " is often
very destructive to the roots of straw-
berries, corn and other
garden plants, especially
when grown on sod land
recently brought under
cultivation. Both beetle
and larva are shown in
May Beetle and Grub. illustration. Fortunately

these fat grubs have many

natural enemies, especially brown thrushes, robins, crows, and a
number of other birds; also moles, pigs, skunks, etc. Fall plow-
ing and continued cultivation will soon rid the field of their
undesirable presence. It is also recommended to make some
artificial breeding place, by covering piles of fresh cow manure
with fine earth during latter part of May or June. Many beetles
will select these for a place to deposit their eggs, and the heaps
may be turned over and spread out exposing the young larvae to
sure destruction by frost, birds and other natural enemies.

ONION FLY. (Anthomyia.) More generally known as radish
or cabbage fly. In general appearance it resembles a small
house fly. It is the parent of the maggot, which troubles the
roots of cabbages, radishes, onions, turnips, etc., and makes itself

Insects and Other Foes. — 99

so exceedingly obnoxious to the gardener. Plenty of lime in the
soil, or its free use about the plants, or ashes from the burnt rub-
bish heap, tend to keep them away. Wood ashes moistened
with kerosene oil and scattered around the plants are said to be
especially effective in repelling the fly. Change of location is a
reasonably safe and simple preventive, and although not an abso-
lute one, should always be employed where practicable. In some
years it is almost impossible to raise early radishes and cabbages
free from the disgusting worms, and again the next season on
same soil, and all over the whole vicinity, the trouble from this
source will be so slight as not to be worth mentioning. The
insect seems to prefer radishes to cabbages, and either of these to
onions, so that the latter, if some cabbages or radishes are planted
in the same field with them, will generally escape attack, as all the
maggots will concentrate on the cabbage and radish plants.
These must be pulled up and destroyed. Where onions are
affected, as may be seen by their tops turning yellow, they should
also be gathered and destroyed.

During last spring it has been discovered that lime-water is
a reasonably sure remedy, where plants are just beginning to
suffer. Slack a peck of caustic lime in 20 gallons of water, pre-
ferably diluted liquid manure, stir
long and thoroughly, and apply to
the plantation at the rate of a pint
to each cabbage plant, or a quantity
sufficient to soak the ground closely
to the roots, so that every maggot
there at work will be reached by
the caustic liquid, the mere contact
of which brings sure death to all
soft-bodied worms. The occasional
application of lime-water to plants
in seed bed, and also to those in
open field, at least during their
earlier stages, deserves to be gener-
ally adopted as a precautionary
measure.

PARSLEY WORM. — This is the
larva of the Asterias butterfly
(Papilio asterias), and feeds on the
leaves of parsley, parsnip, celery,
carrot, dill, and allied plants. It is
a disagreeable fellow, with a most
disgusting odor, and the best way

Parsley Worm, Butterfly and
Chrysalis.

to treat it is to pick off the leaf-stalk on which it is found, throw
it on the ground, and put your foot heavily upon it. Butterfly,
caterpillar and chrysalis are shown in accompanying illustration.

ioo — How to Make the Garden Pay.

PEA WEEVIL. — This is the bean weevil's larger brother, and
must be treated in same way. For directions see Bean Weevil.

POTATO BEETLE. (Doryphora decemlineata) — This has
become far too common to need description. Change of location
for the patch can again be recommended as a means to mitigate if
not entirely avert its fearful ravages. Paris green will have to be
used in nearly every case, however, if serious damage is to be
avoided. Hand-picking is seldom reliable, except where the
beetles are not usually very numerous. The remedy can be
applied either in dry or in liquid form. The beetles, hungry after
a long fast, generally appear as soon as the potatoes are coming
up, and the first application of poison — preferably in a dry form —
should promptly be made, to dispose of this old stock, and pre-
vent not only the destruction of the first tender foliage and con-
sequent weakening of the plants, but also the propagation of the
destructive pest.

The preparation of the poison is quite simple. Pure Paris
green is mixed with at least ioo times its weight of plaster, flour,
or air-slacked lime — the first named preferred. Make the
mixture thorough, and if convenient, prepare it a few days in
advance. In the absence of better means of application, a simple
tin-can, with handle and perforated bottom, will answer the
purpose, especially when the plants are yet small. Give each
plant, as soon as up, a dash of the dry poisonous mixture, and
thus protect it from harm. Later on, when the first brood of
eggs hatch, the young larvae or slugs concentrate in the tender
centres of the stalks, and another dash of the poison should be
applied without delay, for if neglected more than a few days, the
slugs will scatter all over the plants, and make fighting them
more inconvenient, necessitating the distribution of the poison-
ous material over the entire surface of the plant. Repeat the
dose as often as required. Various new devices for putting
poison in dry form on potatoes, by hand or horse power, have
now been introduced, and the grower must select those that suit
his case.

When the poison is to be applied in liquid form, one pound
of the pure article should be stirred into 150 gallons of water,
and under constant stirring, be sprayed over the plants with force
pump and spray nozzle. An effective application cannot well be
made by the quite common method of using a garden sprinkler,
or any similar sprinkling device, without more or less injury to
the foliage, in consequence of the uneven distribution over the
foliage. The liquid gathers here and there in drops, especially
on lower end of leaves, and evaporating, leaves the poison often
too concentrated for the good of the plants. This danger may,
at least in a measure, be avoided, by having the liquid weak, and
keeping it constantly stirred to hold. the poison well suspended

Insects and Other Foes. — 101

in the liquid. Its natural tendency is to sink to the bottom.
The recently introduced " Vine and Plant Sprinkler," invented by
F. A. Tyler, Rome, N. Y., and kept on sale by leading hardware
dealers, is the only cheap device now known to me, which makes
the hand sprinkling method comparatively convenient, safe and
effective. I am using it myself, and am well pleased with it.
The annexed figures will make the arrangement and use of the
sprinkler plain. In normal condition the escape of the liquid in
bottom of reservoir is prevented by the tight fitting rubber cap
B (see interior view) pressed against the orifice by means of the
spiral spring D. When the rod A is pulled upwards (by
operator's middle finger) the liquid enters tube D, falls into the
fine rose C, and is forced upon the plant below it, in a fine rain.
The same machine, by the interchange of some of the parts,
can also be used for sifting the dry mixture, but does not work
quite so well.

In use. Exterior view. Interior view.

A convenient vine and plant sprinkler.

Potato beetles are very destructive to egg plants, especially
late in the season, after potatoes have matured, and the beetles
find no more food except the egg plants of which they are very
fond. The slugs can easily be kept off by Paris green applica-
tions ; but the beetles often come in such numbers that no matter
how many may die from the effects of the poison, their places
are at once filled by others, and it is impossible to save the plants
from entire annihilation.

RADISH FLY AND MAGGOT. — See Onion Fly.

SNAILS. — The only effectual way of dealing with these, where
troublesome, is to set traps by scattering pieces of orange-peel
over the ground. The snails are so fond of this delicacy that
they will remain clinging to the peel rather than go back to
their hiding places at break of day. Examine the traps every
morning, and destroy the marauders.

102 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

SQUASH VINE BORER. (Algeria cucurbitce.} — Our first aim
should be to repel the moth, and prevent her from depositing
her eggs on the plants. Perhaps this may be successfully ac-
complished by placing corn cobs smeared with coal tar, turpen-
tine, kerosene, or carbolic acid near the roots of the plants. If
we have not been successful in keeping the moth off, we should
hunt up and destroy the larvae (borers) when they first begin to
tunnel through the main stock near the surface of the soil. They
give the preference to pumpkins, squashes, and similar members
of the gourd family, but also attack melon and cucumber vines,
riddling the stem near the ground, and often cutting off all com-
munication between top and root. Discover their location and
dig them out with the point of a sharp knife. With squash and
other plants which readily strike root from the joints, it is the

easiest thing in the
world to practically
prevent all injury. All
you have to do is to
cover the first joints
firmly with fresh soil
as soon as the vines
begin to run. The
be made entirely inde-

Layered Squash Vine.

then

plants, as shown in picture, can
pendent of their original roots.

SQUASH BUG, BLACK. (Anasa tristis^) — In July the patches of
dark brown eggs may be found on the underside of the leaves
of pumpkins, squashes, etc., while the bugs are hidden under
rubbish, clods of soil, stones, etc., near the plants. Few things
seem to be repulsive enough for them to keep or drive them off
the plants, but plaster flavored with kerosene or carbolic acid
may be tried. It may at least tend to lessen their numbers.
Trapping is yet the only sure remedy. Place pieces of shingles,
small stones, or rubbish of some sort about the hills, and examine
them for bugs every morning, dispatching them by shaking
into a dish containing some kerosene, or mashing them with
home-made tweezers consisting of a simple piece of band iron,

Tweezers for killing bugs.

and bent as here shown. The bug is repulsive and has a most
disagreeable odor, but should be fought with persistency.

WIRE WORM. (Julus) — These are the offsprings of various
snapping beetles or elaters, hard, smooth-skinned, white or yel-
lowish, worm-like creatures, feeding on potatoes, carrots, the
roots of herbaceous plants, etc., and often doing considerable
damage to these crops. As beetles, they live on the tender leaves

Insects and Other Foes. — 103

of various plants. The name " wire- worm" is often wrongfully
applied to the generally larger and darker-colored centipede or
thousand-legged worm. Trapping or baiting is about the only
method of fighting them which promises any success whatever.
Sliced potatoes or other vegetables are buried beneath the ground
here and there over the area to be freed from the pest, and each
place marked with a stick, for convenience of examination. Look
these baits over carefully every morning, and gather and destroy
the worms.

OTHER FOES. — Moles, although living entirely on worms and
insects, and never destroying crops directly by eating, often, par-
ticularly in sandy and mucky soils, become a source of much
annoyance to the gardener by tunneling under the plant beds,
lifting out, and killing many young plants, indirectly by expo-
sure and drying up. Good traps may now be had at very reason-
able prices of almost every hardware dealer. When persistently
kept set according to directions which accompany each of these
traps, they will soon reduce the numbers of the burrowing pests.

RATS, MICE, ETC. — When troubling hot-beds, hot-houses, etc.,
are also easily enough trapped or poisoned. Cheese crumbs are
a favorite bait for them ; but there is hardly anything that will
more surely entice the rodents than Sunflower seed. If a steel
trap is used to catch rats, a large piece of very thin muslin should
be covered over the trap when set, strewn with cheese crumbs,
sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, etc., and perseveringly kept set.
This will clear the premises of rats after awhile. Woodchucks
are frequently very troublesome to beans, and occasionally
to squash and pumpkin vines, corn, etc. One of the surest
ways of getting rid of them, is to find the burrows, insert a one-
quarter or one-half pound charge of dynamite with a long fuse,
stop up every opening, then fire the end of the fuse outside, and
leave the animal to its fate. A mixture of tar, sulphur and salt-
petre, burned inside the burrow, with all the openings closed, will
also hardly ever fail to produce the desired effect.

BIRDS are sometimes troublesome in the strawberry patch.
Try to scare them away rather than shoot them, unless there is
no other alternative. Exploding small fire crackers sometimes
has good effect. It is said that birds eat berries only because
they get dreadfully thirsty ; and that a pan kept filled with fresh
water where birds can have easy access to it, will save the berries
from this source of danger.

CHAPTER XIX.

FUNGUS DISEASES OF PLANTS.

HOW TO PREVENT AND CURE THEM.
" An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure."

ECENT investigations have acquainted us pretty
well with the true nature, modes of propagation,
etc., of most of the fungi which attack and
damage many of our garden crops, and cause the
various rots, blights and mildews. Among them
we have the potato rot, the tomato rot, the celery
blight, the bean rust, the strawberry rust, the
lettuce mildew, the melon vine disease, etc.
Heat ancf moisture favor the germination of the spores of these
fungi, and consequently the diseases generally develop on hot
days after rains, or during damp sultry weather. Unfortunately
there is hardly a cure for any of them yet suggested. The only
safety for the gardener, in this matter, lies in prevention, and here
again, as in the case of insects, we must look to change of loca-
tion— planting at the greatest possible distance from any ground
where the same vegetable was grown before, as to the first
feasible preventive measure to be adopted. Even this, as in the
analogous case of insects, is not an absolute protection, and the
great difficulty here is that we have no means to anticipate an
attack of such diseases with any degree of certainty.

In all localities where diseases of this character are prevail-
ing to some extent, we may generally expect them late in July
or August, when hot weather is following after warm rains, and
here prudence would dictate the use of precautionary measures.
The trouble again is that so little definite information on the most
effective germicides, and the most convenient mode of application
is yet developed, and I will have to content myself with merely
making suggestions.

SULPHATE OF COPPER. — This salt (blue vitriol or blue
stone), in simple solution or in various compounds, has just been
recognized as a preventive of the dreaded mildew and black rot
in grapes, and also shown its efficacy in destroying the vitality
of other fungus spores. It must be remembered, however, that
this kills the germs and prevents their starting into life, but has
(104)

Fungus Diseases of Plants. — 105

no effect on them after the thread-like mycelium (as the roots of
fungi are called) has once entered the tissues of the attacked
leaf, stalk or berry.

The copper and lime compound (Bordeaux mixture or copper
mixture of Gironde) is now regarded as the most effective means
against infection in case of grape diseases. For the vegetable grower
who wishes to employ blue vitriol as preventive of potato rot,
celery blight, melon vine disease, etc., I would advise to use the
modified form of eau celeste, as most convenient to apply, safe
and, I believe, effective. I have made and used it as follows,
viz. : One pound of copper sulphate is dissolved in a gallon of
hot water, and liquid commercial ammonia, a little at a time,
added until the copper is all precipitated at the bottom of the
vessel. Now three gallons of water are added, and the whole
allowed to settle. The clear liquid on top, which contains sul-
phate of ammonia — the substance liable to burn tender foliage
even worse than rust — must be poured off, when the precipitate
(copper) is dissolved by the addition of a little more ammonia.
This gives us a clear liquid of a beautiful deep-blue color ; and
when ready for use, it is diluted to 22 gallons. The gardener
fortunate enough to have a spraying apparatus, can now apply it
to potatoes, celery and melon and cucumber vines, or other
plants subject to the attacks of fungus diseases. This should be
done early in the season, before the germination of any of the
spores can take place, and repeated at least every ten days or two
weeks during the period of danger. Celery leaf blight develops
most rapidly during hot and dry weather, but having once
obtained a firm foothold in a plant or patch, remains sometimes even
during the cool and moist fall weather, otherwise so well suited
to the wants of celery. Applications of eau celeste may check,
but will not eradicate it, and the only hope is in making
them early and often enough, i. e., using them merely as a
preventive.

In the absence of a spraying apparatus the application can
be made with a whisk broom, the vine and plant sprinkler
mentioned in preceding chapter, or with a fine rose garden
sprinkler, but will be more wasteful and expensive.

Tomato Rot. — The abundant use of stable manure seems to
predispose tomato plants to the attacks of rot, but some varieties
appear to be more liable to take the disease than others, and
feeble plants less so than very vigorous ones. Sulphate of
potassium in solution (one-half ounce to the gallon of water)
applied by means of a spraying apparatus, taking care to
thoroughly wet all parts of the fruit, is recommended as a remedy.
The first application should be made on the half-grown fruit,
and the operation repeated at intervals of ten days or two weeks
until the fruit begins to color.

io6 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Lettuce Mildew. — The mildew which is often so very trouble-
some and destructive on lettuce grown under glass will have to
be treated in a different way. In the first place we should aim
to surround the crop in greenhouse or hot-bed with the same
conditions which nature provides in early spring to the outdoor
crop, in other words, grow them in a natural way, especially in
a cool atmosphere. Heat from the air, I believe, is better than
bottom heat. The temperature should not be much above 40
degrees at night, nor 70 degrees during the day. Lettuce needs
plenty of moisture, but water should be withheld on cloudy
days, and drainage be perfect. Always water in the morning of
bright days. Applications of nitrate of soda, and perhaps of
potash also, will render the plants vigorous and mildew-resisting.

A sure and easily applied remedy is the one suggested by
the Massachusetts Experiment Station (Prof. Maynard), and
consists in keeping a kettle or basin of sulphur (brimstone)
heated to nearly the boiling point, in the forcing house for three
or four hours twice or three times a week. Enough sulphur
must be evaporated to fill the room with vapor so that it will
be visible, and give a perceptible odor of sulphur. It might be
well to advise great caution in the use of sulphur to avoid its
taking fire, for the fumes of burning sulphur will quickly destroy
all plant life, and a few .minutes of burning might result in the
loss of the whole crop in the building.

From the testimony of Prof. Thos. B. Meehan we have no
reason to doubt that a paint of sulphur and linseed oil, put on
the hot water or steam pipes in the greenhouse, will effectively
prevent the appearance of lettuce and other mildews. Besides
these there are other promising preventives worthy of trial. I
think that the mildew will be likely to stay away if the ground
is given a liberal wetting with a one per cent, solution of sulphate
of iron (green copperas) before or shortly after setting the plants.
The new germicide naphtaline, costing only a few cents per
pound, may also be given a trial. It is not soluble, but very
volatile, and a little box of it kept in the room will fill it with
its penetrating vapor, and unquestionably prevent the germina-
tion of the mildew spores. The odor, however, like that of
carbolic acid, is offensive to many persons.

Melon-leaf Blight. The fungus disease which attacks mel-
ons, cucumbers, and other vines, and is as destructive as it is a
common visitor all over the United States, is often confounded
with the work of the squash borer. The vines, generally on a
hot day after a rainy spell, show signs of wilting, and gradually
wither away, the leaves appearing as scorched, and soon death
ensues. Wetting the ground with the copperas solution as
mentioned for lettuce mildew, and naphtaline scattered among the
vines, may prove effective as preventives, and these measures

Fungus Diseases of Plants. — 107

deserve a trial. Vines under glass, or otherwise under cover, are
exempt, as are grape-vines, similarly protected, exempt from
attacks of mildew and rot. Covering the plants lightly with hay
or similar material is said to be a reasonably sure preventive.

CHAPTER XX.

SEEDS AND SEED SOWING.

BY MACHINE AND BY HAND.
" Good seed brings a glad harvest."

OOD seed is one of the essential conditions of suc-
cess in growing garden stuff, and to secure it is
well worth considerable trouble and effort. Com-
pared with the results, particularly with the great
difference in the outcome of one kind of seed and
of another, the greater expense of a reliable article
is not worth taking into consideration. A few
cents' difference in cost of seed may make many
dollars' difference in the returns. When a whole crop and its
quality is at stake, there is no wisdom in running the slightest
risk for the sake of a small saving in the expense. Cheap seed
'is not necessarily poor; but poor seed is always a costly invest-
ment. The fact is that seed of really first-class quality cannot be
grown profitably at very low figures, and the only judicious
course to follow is to buy of a strictly reliable source, and be
willing to pay a reasonable price. Would you take a medicine
that happens to be on hand, merely for the sake of saving it ? It
is a no more foolish proceeding than to use seeds because you
happen to have them, or can get them at little or no expense.
Never plant a seed of the superior character and quality of \\hich
you are not reasonably certain. Little difficulty will be exper-
ienced if any one is anxious to purchase reliable garden seeds, since
there are many firms of established reputation whose goods can
be depended upon for quality and purity. All the larger repu-
table houses send out no seed except that of the purity and
reliability of which they are tolerably sure, and only after testing
and approving of its vitality.

I cannot warn too emphatically against putting reliance on
the seeds sold on commission by grocers and hardware dealers.
It is obvious that in buying such seeds you will have to pay for
the services of the middleman, while a direct deal with the
seedsman will probably insure some saving in the expense. But
this is only a minor benefit derived from this direct deal. When
only one-third of the packets contained in the commission boxes
are sold, it is plain that the dealer cannot afford to throw the
two-thirds left over away, but, as a matter of self-preservation,
(108)

Seeds and Seed Sowing. — 109

must put the stale stuff on sale again and again until sold. Con-
sequently, you are never sure whether the seeds you buy from such
sources are one or five years old, and this also accounts for the
frequency of the complaints about "seed that will not grow."
While it is true that we run little risk of obtaining stale seeds
when dealing directly with our reputable large firms, complaints
about the lack of vitality in seeds are by no means uncommon;
but I am quite sure that more generally the responsibility rests
with the party who sows the seed, rather than with the seed itself,
or the man who sold it.

PRINCIPLES OF GERMINATION. — Much stress has recently been
laid upon the importance of using the feet in firming the soil
over the newly-sown seed. I am inclined to deem the use of
the head in seed sowing of still greater consequence. Any one
who has a thorough understanding of the principles involved,
and follows the dictates of common-sense in their practical
application, will have no difficulty in getting live seed to ger-
minate, whether he makes use of his feet in sowing the seed and
firming the soil, or not. Yet in a large number of cases the
practice is decidedly commendable, and will often insure success
where the unskilled would otherwise fail. What are these
principles ?

Moisture, a certain degree of heat (varying with different
seeds), access of air, and absence of light — these are the chief
requirements. How can we best supply them ?

The warmth generated by the sun rays is. our chief reliance
for the needed high temperature in open-air culture, without
artificial assistance ; and only in culture under glass do we resort
to various devices to save, augment or supplement this heat,
either by the prevention of loss through radiation from the soil,
by sash covering alone, or in combination with additional arti-
ficial heat from fermenting manures, flues, or pipes.

Constant but moderate supply of moisture is another chief
point, and to insure it, the seed should be bedded in mellow
soil, and this packed around it just firm enough to bring it in
actual contact with it, and facilitate and make sure of capillary
action. If left loose over and around the seed, the capillary
movement of the soil water would here come to a stop, the
pulverized soil dry out in a sunshiny day and, depriving the seed
of the needed moisture, prevent its germination, or kill the sprout
if this has already started into life. Excess of moisture should
also be avoided. v

On the other hand, the soil must not be compact enough
above the seed to hinder the upward passage of the young sprout.
This is a prolific cause of failure with seeds. While having
considerable force, yet the tiny plants only too often choke and
die because unable to penetrate a hardened crust of soil. This

no — How to Make the Garden Pay.

consideration makes it necessary that the ground be well pre-
pared, and thoroughly mellowed before seed is sown, and that
the latter be not placed deeper than would correspond with its
vital force. Large seeds, of course, have greater life force, and
for this reason can be planted deeper than small seeds, from
which comparatively weakly sprouts are issuing.

Seeds will not sprout in the absence of air, and if planted
very deep, may remain dormant in the soil for years, but when
brought nearer the surface, and thereby exposed to the oxidizing
influence of the air, will at once start into life. This explains
why only the weed seeds near the surface grow, while those
lying deeper wait until plow or other implements bring them up
within the life-giving influence of air and warmth.

The rule usually given is to plant all seeds as deep as their
own diameter, but it is a rule more or less deviated from. Most
of the common garden seeds are planted about one inch deep,
except such as celery, small herb seeds, etc., that are left very
near the surface. Peas may be put from 2 to 4 inches deep,
potatoes trom 3 to 4 inches, corn from 2 to 3 inches, etc.

PLANTING IN HARD SOIL. — It is comparatively easy to make
seeds germinate in sand, sandy loam, muck, or soil rich in vege-
table mold. But when the ground is clayey, and it must be
feared that it will pack so tight and close, or bake so hard, that
the tiny plants will not be able to break through, the shrewd
gardener can yet succeed by means of the more liberal use of
seed. What a single plant is unable to accomplish, may be but
play for the combined efforts of a number of them. The safest
way when dealing with soil in this unfavorable condition, is to
sow the seed very thickly ; and while this involves a greater
expense for seed, it insures a full stand, and chances for a full
crop without adding other disadvantages, as thinning is needed
in either case and requires about the same amount of labor
whether you have three plants to the inch or six.

The dried out soil in and after mid-season sometimes proves
quite an obstacle to the ready germination of seed sown at that
time ; but the grower who takes the precaution to sow immedi-
ately after the ground is prepared for it, to deposit the seed
somewhat deeper than generally done in early spring sowing, and
to firm the soil very carefully after sowing, will usually have no
difficulty to make good seed come up speedily. Always sow in
freshly stirred ground — this is a most excellent rule, and deserves
to be strictly followed in all cases, and for spring, summer, or
autumn sowing. It will seldom fail to insure success, as long as
there is life in the seed, and the least moisture in the soil.

SOWING SEED WITH GARDEN DRILL. — When the ground is
prepared so thoroughly that the drill works to best advantage, it is
usually also in best condition for the germination of seeds. Let

Seeds and Seed Sowing. — in

the whole surface be mellow and even. This is easily accom-
plished in a clean loam, sand or muck. Often the only tools
required are plow and smoothing harrow. In most cases the
roller can be used alternately with the harrow to good advantage,
and the surface thus made perfect ; but on less friable soil, and if
no Meeker disk harrow is at hand, the finishing touch must be
given with a good steel rake. On clayey and very lumpy
ground the preparation will require more labor, if not a greater
variety of tools. The Disk or Cutaway harrow can be used to
break up the lumps, and to bring the surface in proper shape for
the smoothing harrow. This may be followed with a Meeker
(small disk) harrow, and the latter, if properly used, leaves the
ground as smooth as if raked over by hand.

Straight rows make the garden attractive, hence it is always
preferable to mark off the rows of the desired width, or at least
make a perfectly straight mark, or draw a line for the first row,
and then use the
marker attached to
the drill, always
trying to correct
any deviation from
the straight line.
The small roller
back of the seed
coverers firms the
soil, when properly
prepared, suffi-
ciently to make the
use of the feet for
this purpose en-
tirely superfluous.

SOWING BvH AND.
— For the home
garden, and where
only small quanti-
ties of any one
variety are planted,
as in test plats for
instance, the use of
the drill is hardly desirable, and hand sowing is far preferable.
A little practice will enable any one of average skill to make a
clean job of it. The rows are marked out with the garden
marker, and the operator, taking the seed paper in left hand,
walks along the row and drops the seed evenly from the right
hand held in the position shown in picture. The little finger
and its neighbor form a sort of receptacle for a quantity of. seed
which gradually works down, and is evenly dropped by the

Sowing Seed by Hand, Covering and Firming.

ii2— How to Make the Garden Pay.

other three fingers, through a rubbing motion of the thumb
against the next two fingers. A person can easily learn to sow
in this way nearly as evenly and uniformly as is done by the use
of the drill.

The covering is done by simply drawing a steel rake length-
wise over each row, and the firming either by the use of the feet,
or by patting with the back of the rake. My favorite practice is
to rake in the seed of the first row, then while plying the rake
over the second row, to walk on the first row, thus firming it,
next, while covering the third row, to walk on the second, etc.
Covering and firming all at one time, can also be done without
rake, and by the use of the feet alone.

Some of the very fine seeds, like celery, need particularly
careful handling. The drill marks are made very shallow, the
seed sown rather thickly, and the soil merely firmed by the use
of the feet, or back of rake. Special devices are sometimes used
for very small seeds, such as covering the soil after seed is sown
and lightly covered, with a pane of glass or piece of cloth, etc.,
and this left on until the young plants appear above ground.

VITALITY OF SEEDS. — In a general way I am by no means
opposed to the use of old seeds, when such are at hand, and a
thorough test proves that a large per cent, of them will grow
readily. This latter is the chief point of importance. Much
theoretical matter has recently been written upon the different
behavior of plants from new and old seed, as for instance, that new
seed tends to produce foliage, and old seed, fruit and seed, etc.
This difference in practice, however, is too small to deserve more
than passing notice. As a rule, new seeds germinate more promptly
than old seeds do, and this is one advantage at least in favor of
the former. I have not been able to discover that the new cab-
bage seeds produce larger heads than seed. of the same variety,
grown by the same person the year before ; nor that old melon
seed gives ripe melons a day in advance of new seed of the
same variety. The different kinds of seed vary greatly in the
time they retain their vitality, and much also depends on the
condition in which they are gathered and stored. Onion seed,
for instance, is not considered reliable the second season ; yet I
have known a sample kept over until second season in a tight
paper bag in the garret, to contain 85 per cent, live, vigorous seed.
Properly ripened and gathered seed, preserved under average
favorable conditions, will retain its vitality as follows :
Anise 3 years. Borage 8 years.

Artichoke, Globe 6

Asparagus 5

Balm 4

Basil 8

Bean 6

Beet . 6

Borecole or Kale 5

Broccoli 5

Brussels Sprouts 5

Cabbage 5

Caraway ... .... 3

Cardoon 7

Seeds and Seed Sowing. — 113

VITALITY OF SEEDS. — Continued.

Carrot ........ 4 to 5 years.

Cauliflower 5

Celery 8

Chervil 2 to 3

Chicory 8

Coreander 6

Corn 2

Corn Salad 4

Cresses 5

Cucumbers 10

Dandelion 2

Dill 3

Egg Plant 6

Endive 10

Fennel 4

Hyssop 3

Kohl Rabi 5

Lavender 5

Leek 3

Lettuce 5

Sweet Marjoram 3

Martynia I to 2

Melon 5

Mustard 4 years.

Nasturtium 5

Okra 5

Onion I to 2

Parsley 3

Parsnip i to 2

Peas 3

Peanut i

Pepper 4

Radish 5

Rhubarb 3

Rosemary 4

Rue 2

Sage 3

Salsify 2

Summer Savory 3

Scorzonera 2

Sea Kale i

Spinach 5

Squash 4 to 5

Thyme 3

Tomato 4

Turnip 5

Some of these seeds, like melon, pumpkin, etc., often grow
readily even after having passed the stated limit of years ; but all
are liable to fail much sooner if indifferently kept. Such seeds
as onions, parsnips, egg plant, for instance, should always be
regarded with suspicion except when strictly fresh.

In the matter of quantity of seed to be required for a certain
length of drill, it is usually safer to follow common sense than
any of the directions found in books, papers and catalogues. The
aim must be to insure a full stand in the drill. Fairly heavy
seeding will be the means to this end ; but a sufficiency may mean
more or less, according to conditions of soil and seed itself. The
gardener's own good judgment should be the best safeguard
against his going to either extreme.

CHAPTER XXL

NOVELTIES,

AND WHY WE TEST THEM.
At our gates are all manner of pleasant fruits, new and old."

iAN'S mind was not intended to rest content
with any thing short of perfection — hence his
ardent and never-ceasing desire to better all
his surroundings and conditions. Not idle
curiosity merely, but the almost divine longing
to do away with imperfections wherever we
find them, is what makes us take such an
interest in promising novelties, and look so
kindly upon every effort toward the improvement of fruits and
vegetables, and what renders the " testing of new things " so
attractive and charming. It is true that the great majority of
novelties introduced with high claims of superior merits develop
such shortcomings, after thorough test, that they are quickly
thrown aside again, and soon forgotten. But the acquisition of
a single worthy new thing often pays a royal compensation for
all the disappointments caused by a large number of novelties
that prove without value. I will cite as one instance, that of the
" Prizetaker " onion, introduced by Mr. Wm. Henry Maule, of
Philadelphia, in 1888. The little package of seed I got then
enabled me to raise about one-half bushel or more of the most
beautiful bulbs that it had ever been my pleasure to see growing,
and the satisfaction I got out of their possession, and out of the
opportunities to show the growing crop to visitors, would have
made up very largely for many failures. I think I would not
have missed the chance of growing the Prizetaker in 1888, and of
planting more largely in 1889, for a number of times the cost of all
the novelties I planted that season. It was a similar thing with
the Emerald Gem Melon, Dwarf Champion Tomato, etc.

Some of these novelties mark more or less decided steps in
advance. Let us look back upon the tomato varieties of 30 or
even 25 years ago — small, poor, seedy, irregular, late. Then
came novelty upon novelty in quick succession, each better than
its predecessor — General Grant, Canada Victor, Trophy, Paragon,
Acme, Perfection, Potato Leaf, Dwarf Champion, Lorillard, etc.,
until now we have reached a state of perfection in tomatoes that
leaves room for distrust in our ability to originate anything
better than we at present possess.
(H4)

Novelties. — 115

Verily there is pleasure in testing novelties, and the fact that
some turn out good, and others not, only adds interest and spice
to the undertaking. We have the satisfaction, also, to know
that nobody has better things in vegetables than we have, and
that we get the very best just as soon as anybody else has it.
It gives us the proud consciousness of belonging to the better-
situated and progressive minority.

For the market gardener quite often there is money in test-
ing novelties. If a new radish comes out that is a day or two
earlier than any we had before, or a new spinach that will stand
the summer heat a few days longer than the older sorts, he may
by another season be enabled to turn such knowledge to best
account financially. The home gardener, of course, gets only
his satisfaction and pleasure for his pay, and the depth of his
purse must determine to what extent he can afford to invest in
novelties. People who find it extremely difficult to make both
ends meet, and are forced to practice strictest economy, should
not attempt to test novelties except on a small scale, and in a
cautious manner.

CHAPTER XXII.

SYSTEM AND ROTATION OF CROPPING.
" Gardener's, like woman's, work is never done."

N various occasions in this work I have already
alluded to the necessity of maintaining a strict
system of cropping, changing every year, if
possible, or with some crops, like onions, at least at
intervals of a reasonable number of years. Rota-
tion is useful in the prevention of fungus diseases
of plants, and in rendering it more difficult for insects
to discover our patches of just the vegetables they
live on, thus in a measure insuring the safety of our crops. For
the latter reason we should not plant vegetables in succession
which are subject to the attack of the same insect or insects, like
radishes, turnips, cabbages, cauliflower, kohl-rabi and onions.
All these are attacked both by the flea beetle and the maggot.
Egg plants cannot be safely planted where potatoes were grown
the year before, etc.

CLOSE CROPPING. — A system of close cropping, advisable even
in the home garden for the sake of keeping it in best order and
most attractive all through the season, and the weeds in subjec-
tion in a very convenient manner, is absolutely necessary for the
market gardener who must make the most of his opportunities.
High-priced lands cannot be left to lay idle even a small part of the
season. The early peas, and lettuce, and radishes, and spinach,
and early potatoes and other first early crops can be followed by
cucumbers, melons, celery, spinach, summer and winter radishes,
late cabbage, sweet corn, turnips, tomatoes, peppers, sweet pota-
toes, or whatever crop having yet time to come to maturity may
be thought to pay best. New Jersey gardeners often plant a late
crop of common (Irish) potatoes after strawberries. In fact, the
ground can, and should, be kept producing some useful crop from
early spring until winter, and then it may be made to carry
spinach or kale, further south, onions, lettuce, cabbages, etc., either
in actual growing condition, or dormant until spring.

A rotation of crops is also demanded in the interest of strictest
economy in feeding them. Different crops need different propor-
tions of the food elements, and the same crop grown to the
exclusion of others is liable to exhaust the soil of just the
(116)

System and Rotation of Cropping. — 117

element which it prefers to others ; in other words, to disturb
the proper balance of soil fertility. A judicious system of rota-
tion prevents all this. The home gardener should also pay
attention to this point, and change the location of each particular
crop as far as the limited extent of the area will permit.

CHAPTER XXIII.

WEEDS AND HOW TO MANAGE THEM.
" A stroke in time saves nine."

| LOSE cropping with thorough culture as practiced
by every good market gardener, and worthy of
imitation by every home gardener, gives very
little chance to weed growth ; and where weed
seeds are not carelessly scattered over the land, in
manure or by other agencies, soon renders the
originally tedious and disagreeable task of weed
destruction mere child's play. The weeds grow
less with every year of thorough cropping and cultivation. On
the other hand, they increase in number, and become more and
more troublesome with every year of neglectful culture, and with
every year of using manures that are full of foul seeds. Such
manure is a bad investment at any time, and for any crop, but
almost ruinous to some crops, especially onions and strawberries.
Rather than use weedy manures I would prefer to operate
exclusively with concentrated fertilizers, supplemented by clover
manuring, thus avoiding all this serious risk. The old and
somewhat stale saying, " One year of seeding makes nine years
of weeding," is in no way an exaggeration of the truth.

Weed destruction is not the sole, nor even the principal
object of cultivation ; but weed growth may often be considered
almost a blessing to the more shiftless manager as it reminds him
of the necessity to stir the surface, and imperatively demands, at
the peril of the whole crop, that this be done.

Where cultivation is given as it should be, namely, as a mere
stimulant, not a destroyer of plant growth, and for the purpose of
making the surface soil answer for a mulch, and admitting air
freely to the roots of plants, this constant stirring will not allow
any weed seeds to do more than just germinate and die. To
kill all weeds at this early stage, really before any signs of them
can be detected above ground except perhaps to an unsually
sharp eye and close observer/is the " one stitch in time that saves
nine."

Some weeds I refuse to regard as a blessing under any cir-
cumstances. One of them is the Canada thistle. This curse of
the farmer of which it is next to impossible for him to rid his
fields and farm crops, after a neighborhood has once become
(118)

Weeds and How to Manage Them. — 119

infested, is easily eradicated in the garden by constant cultivation,
and if necessary by the use of hoe and knife, preventing all
growth of the weed above ground for a single season. No thistle
root — nor any other perennial root — can live long without a
chance to breathe. Deprive it of foliage (its lungs), and it must
die from asphyxiation. Just for this reason, the larger biennials
and perennials, the thistles, the docks, asclepias, etc., give the
gardener much less trouble than a number of annuals. Among
the latter, we have the
purslane as one of the
most troublesome ; and
in July and August, the
gardener frequently has
hard work to make head-
way against the immense
power of recuperation and
multiplication of these
weeds. Sometimes there
is . only one sure way — to
gather up every plant in
baskets or a wheel-barrow,
and remove them from the
garden, or dig holes here
and there over the patch,
fill up with the weeds, and cover with soil. Chickweed is another
troublesome thing, and it should be treated in the same way.
Wild mustard is abundant in some fields ; but it can easily be
eradicated by pulling up every plant for a few years, allowing
not one to ripen and scatter its seed.

It is a most fortunate thing for the gardener that weeds do
not take an early start in spring. Any crop sown in the cool
weather of March, April or early May has therefore a good
chance to outgrow the weeds. This is one of the reasons, also,
that speak in favor of very early sowing of onions, carrots,
parsley, parsnips, celery and similar vegetables, which appear
somewhat feeble at first. The wheel-hoe will take care of the
weeds between the rows of all such crops, and it is only necessary
to pull out the weeds in the rows by hand or slash them out

Lang's Hand-weeder in use.

Lang's Hand-weeder. Hazeltine's Hand-weeder.

with a hand-weeder, such as Lang's, Hazeltine's or Noye's, or
with tools similarly constructed.

To learn to use any of them to best advantage requires a
little practice, same as the proper use of almost any implement
in garden or field. As a substitute for the patented concerns, I

i2o — How to Make the Garden Pay.

have often used (or given to my weeders) common iron spoons,
broken case knives properly ground to an edge on both sides and
bent in the shape of a curve, etc. In fact, any small sharp-edged
tool can be utilized as a hand-weeder, and in very mellow soil the
ringers alone will do very well. The process of hand-weeding, of
course, has to be repeated as often as weeds re-appear, and if the
first weeding was thoroughly done, the subsequent ones do not
require so very much time and pains-taking labor. But every
weed must be removed ; they are no blessing in any sense, and
only deprive the crop of moisture (which feature is their worst)
and of food.

Many of the annual weeds become very persistent in their
efforts toward seed ripening in latter part of summer and early
fall. They should not be allowed much rest ; for if you give
them an inch they will be sure to take an ell.

CHAPTER XXIV.

THINNING AND TRANSPLANTING.

" CROWDED— CRIPPLED ! "

HE liberal use of seed gives us the desirable full
stand; but also the less desirable feature of a
great surplus of plants. Every plant, not required
for making the crop, is practically a weed, as it
deprives those that are to remain of moisture,
food and room. To remove the superfluous,
useless eaters and drinkers at an early period of
development is just as essential as the early
removal of weeds. Uniformity of vegetables-radishes, beets, onions,
etc., — and an even development cannot well be obtained except
by giving each plant in the row a uniform and reasonably large
amount of space. The annexed figures illustrate the contrast
between a section of rows where the crop (onions) was thinned at
an early stage of growth, and one where thinning is neglected.
The market gardener whose aim is in the direction of an early
crop — of beets, radishes, etc., which he can gather all at once,
clearing the rows as
he goes along, and thus
having them ready for
a successive crop — has
no other way but thin
early and thoroughly.
The home gardener
may do this work grad-
ually with best results.
So for instance in case
of table beets. Instead
of thinning all at once
to the generally recom-
mended distance of 4
to 6 inches apart, the
plants may at first be
left 2 or 3 inches apart ; and when the roots have grown of some
size, and begin to crowd each other in the row, every other one
be removed, giving the choicest young and tender table beets,
greens, etc. A similar course can be adopted with lettuce, and

(121)

Onions properly thinned.

122 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

people who obtain their supply of vegetables in the open market
have no idea what luxury the small and tender hearts of half-grown
lettuce afford. Try it once by thinning drilled lettuce to three
or four inches apart, and when they have nicely begun to head,
pulling up every other plant, and preparing just the young
hearts for the table. These are some of the pleasures in the
garden that mere money cannot buy.

In a general way I have yet to add that the proper distances
among thinned plants, when these are yet very small, appear
comparatively large ; and sometimes people have not the nerve
to slash down and throw away thousands of nice plants which
as yet, appear to have an abundance of rocm. But this has to
be done. Whatever distance is decided upon as the best for the
particular crop, and in any particular case, should be strictly

adhered to, and no
foolish sentimentality
stand in the way of
making the distances
large enough. It is
much safer to err in
favor of giving too
much space, than in
favor of too little.

TRANSPLANTING. —
I am not a particular
friend of transplanting,
and avoid it wherever
I can. In theory, transplanting, which is a sort of root pruning,
induces early fruit production in tomatoes, egg plants, etc., early
heading in lettuce, cauliflower, cabbage, and root development,
such as is indispensable in good plants for setting outdoors. For
this reason, gardeners practice, and writers advocate, repeated
shifting, repotting or transplanting of all sorts of vegetable plants,
in particular, also, of tomato, egg plant, peppers, cabbage, celery,
etc. In practice, transplanting, with its unavoidable root
mutilation, is a stab at the plant's vitality, and acts as a more or
less serious check to its growth, thus invariably dwarfing it in
some measure. Sometimes, if the operation was done under
favorable circumstances — in a moist atmosphere, arid absence of
direct sunlight — it is certainly followed by earlier fruit production
or earlier heading. At the same time it also and invariably
results in reduced size of plant or head, and reduced aggregate
yield of fruit. Should less favorable conditions be ruling at the
time of the transplanting operation, however, the atmosphere be
dry and the sun bright, the plant will receive a set-back which
cripples and retards it for a long time, so that the untransplanted
plant will come even sooner to maturity.

Onions left unthinned.

Thinning and Transplanting. — 123

The great advantage that transplanted plants have over
untransplanted ones, is the greater amount of space which people
generally allow to the former. Seedlings are grown thickly in
the row, and left thickly. In transplanting, the space is given to
each plant that properly belongs
to it. Let this be done with
the seedlings, by early thinning
to the proper distance ; or, let
the seed be planted in a pot or
can large enough, leaving only a
single plant to grow ; and we
can thus produce plants with a
well-developed root system, and
fully the equal to transplanted
plants in every respect. This
comparison, of course, refers to
plants started from seed at the
same time. Much higher rates are
always asked for " transplanted "
cabbage and celery plants, than
for common seedlings. The

Celery plants thinned to two
inches apart.

former, it is true, are usually fine plants, with large roots and
stocky tops, and well worth their price. I obtain just as good
plants by growing seedlings thinly in drills. All seems to
depend chiefly on the amount of space given to each plant, as
may be seen in illustrations of celery plants. Well grown, untrans-
planted plants appear to
be as hardy and as liable
to take hold of the soil
in their new quarters, as
those that have been
' transplanted once or
oftener, and they cer-
tainly can be grown
much more cheaply
rand more conveniently.
Strong, stocky seedling
ITT^N. plants are good enough
in any case, and prefer-
able to poorly -grown
transplanted plants. In
determining the fruiting
time of tomatoes, pep-
pers, egg plants, etc., rapid growth of the seedling, favored by
proper allowance of space, however, is not the only, and perhaps
not even the chief factor. Age of the plant is certainly of equal,
if not superior, influence. For this reason, the plants must be

A

Celery plants irregularly thinned.

124 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

started early, and as the production of seedlings is more difficult,
and requires so much longer time than that of cabbage plants,
they must properly be started in " flats " or hot-bed, thickly
together, and planted out at an early age, giving the space
required for the production of good plants. Even in this opera-
tion it is always safest to select the most favorable conditions —
moist atmosphere and least root disturbance — and thus to limit
the unavoidable check to plant growth to the smallest amount
practicable.

CONDITIONS OF SUCCESS IN TRANSPLANTING. — In a wet season,
or during a wet spell, setting out plants in the open ground is an
easy enough operation, and anybody, no matter how unskilled,
can succeed without effort. During a prolonged spell of heat
and drought — and we are apt to have such at the season for setting
celery and late cabbages — the gardener often finds his skill and
experience put to a severe test by the task. A supply of first-
class plants, i. e., such as were grown with proper allowance of
space to each plant, and consequently possess a fully-developed
root system and a short, stocky top, makes success reasonably
certain even under otherwise unfavorable conditions, especially
if some soil be left adhering to the roots in lifting and shifting.
The most essential requirement, however, in any case is that the
soil be moist, not wet or sticky, but so that it will easily crumble
between the hands. If the soil be dry, it must be freshened and
moistened by artificial watering, or failure will be the sure result.
Planting in dry soil is usually fatal, even if water be applied
afterwards. Always plant in freshly -stirred soil, is as good a rule
as the similar one relating to seed sowing.

PUDDLING. — Simply dipping the roots of plants in water just
before setting them, is fully as effective as the famous manipula-
tion known as " puddling " (dipping in thin mud), and it is much
cleaner, more convenient, and generally preferable. I, myself,
have no use for " puddling," neither for vegetable, nor small fruit
plants and trees ; but dipping the roots in clear water, just before
setting the plants, is a precaution which I, or any other gardener,
can not afford to neglect.

FIRMING THE ROOTS. — Another indispensable requisite in
successful transplanting is the thorough firming of the soil around
the roots. It should be packed so tightly and closely that parts
of the plant would sooner tear off than allow the plant to be
pulled up by them. It is advisable, however, to draw a little
loose soil as a kind of protection and mulch up over the firmed
soil and around the plant, and in very dry weather the latter may be
well-nigh covered up with loose soil to prevent rapid evaporation.

SHORTENING TOPS AND ROOTS. — Another sensible precaution
in dry weather is the trimming or shortening in of the tops of
cabbage, celery and other plants when getting them ready for

Thinning and Transplanting. — 125

setting out. It is done in the most convenient manner by taking
a bundle of plants in the left hand, and removing about half of
the tops by a twisting motion of the right hand. Celery plants
with excessively long roots should have the tips cut off with a
sharp knife. Plants treated in this way, after being planted out,
appear as here illustrated.

Cabbage. Beet.

Plants properly trimmed.

Celery.

TIME OF DAY. — Cloudy weather permits of setting out plants
safely and with equally satisfactory success at any time of day or
night ; but when the sun shines hot and bright, and the soil is
somewhat dry, the proverbial " after 4 p. m." is the right and
proper time, and better than earlier in the day. If a little shade
can be provided for newly-set plants, it is certainly worth some
trouble to do so — soiled
and discarded berry boxes,
broken pots, etc., answer a
good purpose, and leaves of
large weeds, burdock, for
instance, will be much
better than nothing. Good
celery plants are quite
sure to survive the fiercest
heat, on first being trans-
planted, if shaded for some days with a line of boards resting
upon blocks or little stakes, and held there a few inches
above ground. Bottomless plant pots (5 inch) which I had made
for the purpose of bleaching celery, make first-class plant pro-
tectors, and plants thus covered for a few days, as appearing in
picture, generally pass safely over the critical period. Tomatoes,

Plant Protectors and Celery Bleachers.

126 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

egg plants and sweet potatoes, all of which rather enjoy heat,
and are somewhat indifferent to drought, require less care in
the selection of cloudy weather, or moist soil when planting
out, and may often be set safely when cabbage and celery plants
could not be transferred to the open ground without suffering
considerable loss.

SPINDLING PLANTS.— Even the most ill-looking, spindling,
almost rootless plants of tomatoes, cabbages, cauliflowers, etc., can
be transplanted with entire success under average conditions of

Planting Overgrown Tomato Plants.

soil and season. All that is needed is to insert the plants into
the ground up to their very hearts. Overgrown tomato plants
may be laid down in slanting position, care being taken to bring
the moist earth in firm contact with the soil where underground.

,,,* m-

Planting Spindling Cabbage Plants.

Cabbages may be set either straight down or slanting, according
to depth of surface soil and length of stalk. In either case roots
will form all along the stems, and the heads will grow closely

Thinning and Transplanting. — 127

above the ground, instead of being held high up as if on stilts.
The contrast between deep and shallow planting here illustrated
speaks plainly in favor of the former. The advantage which

Results of Deep and Shallow Planting.

deep-feeding roots give to a plant by establishing a direct com-
munication with the stratum of uninterrupted moisture is so
great that some gardeners even prefer setting tall, spindling
plants to short and stocky ones,

CHAPTER XXV.

MEANS OF PROTECTION AGAINST DROUGHT AND

FROST.

SIMPLE AND PRACTICAL DEVICES.
" Saving is Earning."

N most localities of the United States the gardener
rarely passes through a season without encountering
one or more longer or shorter periods of dry weather.
Sometimes these periods assume the aspects of a
serious drought, and the average crops of vegetables
and fruits are often greatly reduced by these period-
ically repeated occurrences. Irrigation is the
expedient most naturally thought of for meeting
such emergencies ; but as we have seen in the chapter treating on
that subject, artificial applications of water — irrigation or sprink-
ling, etc. — are useful only under rare conditions, and mere
sprinkling can never supplant the rains from the skies, in fact,
is often more hurtful than of benefit. But we are not left without
means of passing safely over any period of drought of reasona-
ble duration.

PRECAUTIONS AGAINST DROUGHT. — During the colder part of
the season, when the evaporation from the soil is slow, and the sup-
ply of moisture from the clouds abundant, the movement of the soil
water is chiefly downward, while during the summer evaporation
is usually much faster than rainfall, and necessarily the soil water
in the main moves upwards. In other words, the soil forms a
sort of reservoir that is filled every winter, and gives off its sup-
ply for the use of vegetation (and by evaporation) during the
growing season. If this reservoir is shallow, as in case of soils
resting upon an impervious clay stratum, the surplus is carried off
by surface wash, or in the drains, and the supply is liable to give
out when most needed ; but if deep, as in the case of a naturally
porous subsoil, or one loosened by subsoiling, the available water
supply is large, and not liable to become soon exhausted. It is
true that capillary action is also going on in the clay hard-pan,
but it is far too slow to satisfy the combined demands of surface
evaporation, and absorption by plant roots in a dry time. Hence
our first aim must be to secure depth of reservoir. It is essential
(128)

Means of Protection against Drought and Frost. — 129

to supply the conditions which favor a free movement of the soil
water up and down, and especially capillary action between
surface soil and subsoil, namely, perfect drainage, and subsoiling
wherever this action is stopped by an impervious character of the
subsoil.

Having once secured these conditions as a foundation, the
task before us is rendered comparatively easy, and we can now
pay attention to the mechanical structure of the surface layer.
Some soils absorb more moisture, and part with it more reluc-
tantly, than others. The following table will make this plain :
Each 100 Ibs. of clear Sand is able to absorb and retain 25 Ibs. of water.

Limestone and Sand

Sandy Loam

Clay and Limestone Soil

Clay Loam Soil

Clear Clay Soil

Rich Garden Soil

Peat Soil

29
40
45
So
70

85
175

Soils, therefore, suffer most from dry weather in the order
given. Peat never suffers from an ordinary drought, but gorging
itself with moisture, which fills all its pores, is much more liable
to suffer for want of air. The addition of sand, limestone soil,
and even clay, will correct it in this direction. The absorptive
and retentive character of sand can be improved by the addition
of clay, peat, or more naturally, as in the legitimate way of crop
feeding, by the incorporation of coarse manure, or plowing under
of green crops. The beneficial agent in the latter cases is vege-
table mold. Soils filled with humus absorb and hold water well ;
a rich soil consequently stands drought better than a poor one.
Judicious selection of soil, or improvement of its composition by
the addition of clay, manure, peat, etc., are among the most
effective precautionary measures against drought.

Applications of wood ashes, (carbonates of potash and lime)
also serve to make soils more retentive, and to counteract the evil
consequences of a prolonged drought. Some of our best garden-
ers use them very largely, at the rate of 100 bushels or more per
acre, as much with this object in view, as for their fertilizing
qualities. I believe that nitrate of soda, and the potash salts also,
serve to attract moisture, and to retain it for the use of the crops.
Suppose we have paid proper attention to all the points before
mentioned. We then find ourselves in first-class shape at the
beginning of the season. The subterranean reservoir is well
filled, and all we will have to do, to defy even a protracted
drought, is to use the supply economically, and prevent its undue
waste.

Our aim now is, and should be, to retard evaporation from the
surface, and reduce it to the smallest possible amount Tihs
might be done by a mulch of hay, straw or other litter ; but the

130 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

most convenient material at hand for the purpose is the soil
itself. We simply pulverize the surface, for an inch or two in
depth, by stirring it freely with cultivator, harrow, hoe, or what-
ever implement of tillage we may find most convenient and most
effective. This covering of pulverized soil we must try to keep
on top all through the season. The capillary action from below
stops when it meets this loose material with its large interstices ;
and moisture cannot pass through and beyond it except by the
method of slow evaporation ; so that our supply is held for the
use of plants below the stirred portion of the soil.

Hard rains, of course, again pack the soil tightly, and when
this happens, capillary action is at once resumed, and moisture
brought up by it clear to the surface. Therefore it is of the
greatest urgency that we begin work again with the cultivator and
hoe, as soon after each rain as practicable, to replace the import-
ant mulch of loose soil. When this point is properly attended
to, and with the fundamental conditions spoken of in our favor,
we will have little to fear from any drouth of average dura-
tion ; and even an unusually severe one will not be likely to
cripple us. Our yields may be reduced, but thoroughness and
promptness in cultivation on judiciously selected and wisely
managed land will not admit entire failure on account of drought.

PRECAUTIONS AGAINST FROST. — Quite frequently spring begins
with a long mild spell, lulling the gardener into a sense of
security, and inducing him to plant all sorts of tender things in
the open ground. Suddenly a cold rain sets in, and on clearing,
is followed by a night frost or two that make a clean sweep
among all unprotected tender vegetation. In an early warm
spring the gardener must take some risk, for there is no gain
without. So we may plant some sweet corn, and set a few
tomato plants, but never more of the latter than we will be able
to protect by covering, or replace, should a late frost occur. If
the plants were well-grown and properly hardened, they will
often pass through the ordeal of a cold spell or a very light
frost without suffering injury, where plants not so hardened
would succumb at once.

The main crop of tender plants, however, should not be
transferred to the open ground until the soil has become
thoroughly warm, and all danger of late frost is past. This for
the latitude of Philadelphia will be about May I5th, and further
north not until June 1st. Tender plants up to that time are
generally much better off in a protected place, frame or green-
house, where with proper allowance of space they continue to
grow uninterruptedly, than when exposed to the comparative
hardships of cool soil and occasional chilly days and nights of
early spring, conditions which will not permit much growth, and
more generally keep the plants at almost a perfect standstill,

Means of Protection against Drought and Frost. — 131

retarding them to such a degree that the plants set at a more
congenial time often overtake the coddled things set two or three
weeks earlier.

Should an unusually early and warm spring induce you to
plant more largely before the usual time, one precaution must
never be lost sight of, namely, to hold a supply of good plants
in reserve for the very possible emergency of a mishap to those
set out first. Here is just where so many growers come to grief
annually, and almost every year we see people, after having lost
their plants by a late frost, anxiously hunting the country over
in June, for a new supply, and finally being compelled to take up
with a poor lot of late-grown plants, or go without.

DEVICES OF PROTECTION. — Some afternoon in early spring the
weather reports announce the rapid approach of a cold wave,
and all the indications point to a coming freeze. Then comes
the anxious inquiry : How can we save our nice tomato plants,
our sweet corn, potatoes and beans, all of which were growing
so finely ? It will not do to stand by with folded arms, complain-
ing of the weather, and bad luck. Our only safety lies in cover-
ing the plants. This may be done by sheets of cloth or paper,
litter, or by boxes, large flower pots, etc. The number of boxes
and pots on hand in average gardens may not go very far, and I
would advise to make use of common manilla paper bags (the
two or three pound sacks of grocers) for placing over tomato,
and egg plants, etc. Smaller sizes will answer for pepper and
smaller plants generally. Round off the corners at the open
end slightly, and fasten the bag to the ground by a little wooden
pin thrust through each of the two flaps and into the ground, or
by a small chunk of soil or a stone placed upon each flap, as
may be seen in the accompanying figure.

Devices of Protecting Plants.

Another mode of giving protection to tomato plants in an
emergency, and one which I have seen practised with excellent
success on a larger scale, consists of covering the bent-over plant
with earth. Sweet corn can also be treated in same way, although
it is much less liable to suffer serious damage, even if left unpro-
tected. The soil must be carefully removed next morning,

132 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

and the plants again straightened up. Early potatoes can be
protected by simply hilling up, entirely hiding the plants from
sight.

When you have marsh hay, or coarse litter of any kind on
hand, a much better material for covering strawberry patches,
and exposed vegetation of a tender nature generally, need not be
looked for. Spread the litter thinly over the rows, and remove
again next morning. It may be left as a mulch between the
rows, or gathered up and drawn off for other uses if desired.

Smoke has often been mentioned as a safeguard against
frost, and writers often give the advice to burn rubbish heaps, or
heaps of a mixture of coal tar and moist sawdust, placed at
intervals over the area to be protected. But this is another case
where theory is better than practice, and I do not recommend it
either for spring or fall.

Covering with hay, straw, jpaper, muslin, etc., is about the
only feasible plan of protecting crops against the first early fall
frosts. The home gardener can often save a few tomato and
pepper plants, melon and cucumber vines, etc., by such means,
and thus prolong his season of .fresh fruits of these tender garden
plants for several weeks, for a warm spell usually follows closely
upon the first, and (often only) early fall frost. A few tomato and
pepper plants may also be lifted with all the soil that will adhere
to the roots, and placed in tubs or boxes in the cellar, or under a
shed ; or they may be simply pulled up and hung up somewhere
out of the reach of frost. They will then ripen all the larger
fruit that is on them, and give a full supply some time after all
the plants left in the open ground are killed by frost.

The crops of winter squashes, late melons, and all others
which even the slightest touch of frost would render worthless
for keeping, should of course be gathered and stored in a safe
place before such mishap can befall them. Full-grown green
melons, if properly stored, may be kept for some time, and yet
come to full maturity.

CHAPTER XXVI.

HIRED HELP.

EMPLOYMENT AND TREATMENT OF LABOR.
" The laborer is worthy of his hire."

HE finer quality of garden work, with its many
somewhat delicate operations, calls for greater
mechanical skill, wider experience and riper intel-
ligence than required for the performance of the
simpler and more primitive manipulations of aver-
age farm management.

Really first-class help is scarce even on the
farm. If we watch the average plowman in the field,
or the hired man as he wields the hoe, we will soon find that there
is a wonderful difference in the quality of such work, and that the
man who does a perfect job, like a true friend, is a rara avis
indeed. More than in any other respect is it a truism of the labor
market, that the " best is always the cheapest." The simplest
manipulations in the garden are more than doubled in value and
lasting benefit when directed by a fair amount of intelligence.
One thorough hoeing, for instance, will keep the ground in better
condition and free from weed -growth for a longer time than two
or three of the average kind of so-called hoeing. The former
(thorough hoeing) may require more " elbow grease," but very
little more time. The same with other operations.

Years ago I had my onion-weeding done by young boys,
picked up wherever they could be found willing to work for 50
cents a day. The poor quality of the work done by the great
majority of them, the unceasing and close supervision and dis-
cipline they required,the damage caused by the careless destruction
of many of the finest plants, the general inclination to slight the
work,and the frequency of hand- weeding rendered necessary thereby
— all these drawbacks made boy-labor at 50 cents a day come pretty
high. Grown persons might have been employed at the same
time at $1.00 a day, and they would probably have done the work
25 per cent, faster and 50 per cent, better, and that without
damage to the crop, consequently at a large saving of expense, of
supervision and of considerable annoyance. Verily, the good
laborer is worthy of his hire : but the poor one certainly is not.

(i33)

*34 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

The gardener everywhere has to face this difficulty of get-
ting intelligent labor — labor which alone is worth having, and
worth paying for. It is well worth the trouble — perhaps an ab-
solute necessity — for the market gardener to educate his work-
hands, and then try to keep those permanently that suit his
requirements. In the first place he must plan to have work
all through the year, summer and winter, and to engage his men
by the year, and year after year. We can better afford to give a
good price to thoroughly skilled workmen, than to employ care-
less and unintelligent raw hands at a one-third rate.

To make our good hands still more contented to stay, and
willing scholars, good books and treatises on gardening, and the
better class of horticultural periodicals should be freely provided
for them, and the employer should not neglect to acquaint them
with his plans of operation, and the reasons for the adoption
of the various courses in garden management.

Everything, in short, must be done to make them feel as if
it were their own work they are engaged in, and to make them
do it with an object in view other than the mere passing away
the time, and getting their pay for "time." If this latter is the
only consideration for which their work is given, it will most
surely be of inferior quality, and not worth its price.

CHAPTER XXVII.

MONTHLY MEMORANDA.

A CHRONOLOGICAL SUMMARY OF THE YEAR'S WORK.
'• Doing the right thing at the right time — that is success."

T would be a futile attempt to give specified chrono-
logical directions strictly applicable to all the gardens
over the different sections of the United States with
their varied climatic and atmospheric conditions. In
the following chronological schedule of garden opera-
tions, the latitude and general climate of Philadelphia
(Southern Pennsylvania, South Jersey, etc.), is taken
as a basis. The growing season of the greater part of
New York and the New England States, etc., is several weeks
shorter at each end, with a month or two more of hot-house and
cold frame management, comparative leisure and opportunity
for planning, studying books, papers, catalogues, etc., during the
winter. Gardeners must govern themselves accordingly, and
make every effort to do the right thing just at the right time.

JANUARY.

Attend to cold frames, hot-beds and greenhouses, giving all
the fresh air possible during pleasant hours of the day, closing
again as a change of temperature occurs. Some days the sashes
may have to be opened and closed severa 1 times. Cold-frame
wintered plants need all the light that can be given, unless the
plants are frozen, when they may remain covered with shutters
or snow for two weeks without injury.

Market celery or any other vegetable that you may have on
hand from last year's crop.

Draw manure to the compost heap, and compost to the
fields. Order fertilizers.

During a thaw secure soil for your beds, protecting well
with litter or coarse manure, to have it ready for use in making
hot-beds.

Plan the season's work, aiming to have the ground occupied
all the time, embracing crops that are most profitable, yet do not
encroach upon each other.

(i35)

136 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Order seed catalogues of leading dealers, and study them
carefully ; then make your selection of seeds, providing for all
possible wants, and send in your order without unnecessary
delay.

Select and engage the required hired help. Now you have
choice — later you will have to take what others have refused.

FEBRUARY.

Attend to frames, and greenhouses, as in January. Venti-
late freely in fine weather.

Test the vitality of seeds on hand, and order a new supply if
necessary.

Inspect all implements, harnesses, wagons. Repair where
needed.

First of month sow cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce in well
protected cold frame or hot-bed for earliest planting, if no win-
tered plants are on hand.

Latter part of month sow tomatoes, egg-plant and pepper in
a strong hot-bed, or in greenhouse.

Continue drawing manure. Fork over the compost heaps.

Last of month, if season is favorable, begin setting wintered
plants of cabbage and lettuce in open ground.

MARCH.

Attend to frames, greenhouses, etc., as in February.

Cart and spread manure on the fields to be planted. Plow,
harrow.

Sow seeds of radish, lettuce, onion, spinach, early beets,
turnips, carrots, celery, hardy peas, parsley.

Dig around the rhubarb plants, and apply fine compost,
liquid manure, or nitrate of soda.

Pulverize the asparagus patch, hilling up the rows. Apply
nitrate of soda at the rate of 200 to 300 Ibs. per acre.

Continue setting cold frame plants of cabbage, cauliflower,
lettuce.

Plant onion sets and first early potatoes.

Prick out tomato seedlings in flats or on greenhouse benches
three or four inches apart each way.

APRIL.

First of month sow seed of all hardy vegetables — radishes
beets, carrots, peas, spinach, celery ; the last of the month the
first planting of the tender kinds, beans, sweet com, etc., can be
made.

Sow onion seed for sets.

Thin all the drilled crops planted last month.

Cultivate freely between rows.

Monthly Memoranda. — 137

Continue " spotting " (transplanting) tomato seedlings.

Apply nitrate of soda to the early crops.

Sow peppers in hot-bed.

Whitewash sashes of greenhouses, etc., to protect plants
from excess of light and heat. Begin hardening off the earliest
tomato plants.

Market earliest crops — spinach, bunch onions, radishes,
lettuce.

MAY.

For succession sow radishes, beets, peas ; also cabbages and
cauliflowers for late crop. By middle of month sow mangels for
stock, carrots and salsify for main crop.

After first week of month sow seed of beans, cucumbers,
melons, corn and lima beans.

After middle of month set tomatoes, peppers and sweet
potatoes in open ground.

Plant common potatoes.

Mellow the soil around plants set last month, to keep them
growing vigorously.

Keep celery bed well cultivated and free from weeds.

Market early crops — onions from sets, lettuce, radishes,
spinach, beets, cabbages, earliest peas.

JUNE.

Plant peppers, tomatoes, egg-plants, sweet and white potatoes,
winter beets, late cauliflowers and cabbages.

Clear ground of early spring crops — onions, radishes, lettuce,
spinach, etc. — and prepare it for second crops.

Keep celery plants growing vigorously by frequent cultiva-
tion. Thin plants as needed.

Thin carrots, beets, onions from seed, parsnips, salsify.

Stir the surface of soil frequently among all crops.

Poison the potato beetles and slugs.

Plant cucumbers for pickles.

Set celery plants for early crop.

Market radishes, lettuce, onions, celery, cabbage and other
vegetable plants, peas, string-beans, cauliflower, etc

JULY.

Finish marketing early crops, clearing and preparing the
land for succeeding crops.

Plant out late cauliflowers, cabbages, peppers.

Plant tomatoes on the discarded strawberry patch.

Set celery for main and late crops.

Sow seed of winter radish, early beet for winter, ruta-bagas,
turnips ; last of month kale, spinach.

138 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Harvest onion sets.
Market early potatoes.

Keep the ground among all crops well stirred to guard
against drought.

AUGUST.

Early this month finish setting celery.

Sow for late crop spinach, radish, turnip, kale.

Keep ground well cultivated and hoed.

Pull the late weeds before they mature and shed their
seed.

Hoe cabbages frequently, also apply pyrethrum (buhach)
wherever worms are troublesome.

Dig and market potatoes. Market cucumbers, melons,
tomatoes, peppers, etc.

SEPTEMBER.

Stimulate growth of celery by cultivation, hoeing and appli-
cations of nitrate of soda.

Handle celery for early use.

By middle of month sow seed of spinach, and kale for
spring.

By twentieth of month sow in drills, cabbage and cauliflower
for plants to be wintered in cold frames.

Harvest onions, and sell them at the earliest possible date.

Clean up the hot-beds and cold frames, and get them ready
for use.

Watch turnips and drive off flea beetles by application of
proper remedies.

Market tomatoes, peppers, lima-beans, egg-plants, melons,
cucumbers, pickles, etc.

OCTOBER.

Market the second crops planted in July : radishes, cabbages,
endives, string-beans, beets, carrots, cauliflowers, sweet corn,
celery.

Handle late celery, earth up gradually.

During middle of month sow lettuce for plants to go in cold
frames.

Before frost pick green and half-ripe tomatoes, peppers, etc.

House squash. Harvest sweet potatoes before vines are
injured by frost.

Harvest root crops and store in cool, moist cellar, or pit.

Set cabbage plants in cold frames, leaving beds open until
hard freezing or snowy weather.

Monthly Memoranda. — 139

NOVEMBER.

Finish gathering and storing late crops.

Set cabbage and cauliflower plants in cold frame, and harden
them by exposure.

Mulch spinach for spring lightly.

Protect parsley from snow and extreme cold by a board cap
or inverted trough.

Celery not well protected is to be gathered early and
trenched in, or stored in root cellar.

Market the bleached celery.

Harvest and store root crops. Gather salsify and leeks for
winter use, and store like celery.

Top-dress rhubarb with manure, bone meal, muriate of
potash.

Clear up the garden generally, and get ready for spring
crops.

Draw manure to compost heap or to the field.

DECEMBER.

Look to frames and forcing houses.

Keep cold frame plants dormant. Too much protection is
worse than exposure.

Mulch spinach. Draw soil lightly over the tops of salsify.

Market celery, cabbage, onions, beets, hot-house lettuce.

Draw material for the compost heaps from city or town.

Look over the credits and debits of each crop. Figure
which are the profitable and which are the unprofitable ones, and
study the causes of failure wherever it occurred, to learn how
to avoid it in future.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

CULTURAL DIRECTIONS.

HOW THE VARIOUS CROPS OF OUR GARDENS ARE GROWN MOST
EASILY AND PROFITABLY THEIR LEADING VARIETIES.

" Care brings crops."

N the following pages I have attempted to describe the
best methods of growing the various vegetables, as
practised by myself and good gardeners generally.
Of varieties, I can only mention the leading or typi-
cal ones, and of the newer sorts those that have
passed examination creditably, or at least give
promise of value. Concerning untried novelties, I
must refer the reader to the annual catalogues of our
progressive seedsmen.

ANISE.

Pimpinella Anisum. German, Anis. French, A nis. Spanish,
Ants. — Anise is one of the half-hardy " sweet herbs," and almost
as easily grown as a weed. Sow seed in April or May where it
is to remain, in warm and well drained soil, drills to be 12 or 15
inches apart. It is but little grown in American gardens.

The seed has a delicate flavor and perfume, and is prized
for its medical properties. Germans use it quite commonly for
flavoring apple-sauce.

ARTICHOKE— GLOBE.

Cynara Scolymus. German, Artichoke. French, Artichaut.
Spanish, Alcachofa. — The Globe Artichoke is propagated from
seed, division of roots, or from suckers. In order to obtain a
stock of plants, seed may be sown early in hot-beds, and plants
transferred to open ground in May, setting in rows three feet
apart, with two feet distance between plants. The rich black
soil of river bottoms, moist but well-drained, answers the
requirements of this crop best. A bed once established will
remain in bearing for a number of years, but needs protection in
(HO)

Cultural Directions. — 141

the northern states ; and for this reason leaves or coarse manure
should be applied between the plants from three to six inches
deep, according to the usual severity of the winters.

The part used, generally in the raw state, is the base of the
scales of the flower. Sometimes they are boiled and served
as a salad. The term " Artichoke Salad," however, is more
frequently applied to the side shoots, which are loosely tied and
bleached somewhat after the fashion of endive. The vegetable
is rarely found in American home gardens.

VARIETIES.

European seedsmen catalogue a number of varieties. The
Green, or Green Globe, is probably as good as any other, and
the one offered by American seedsmen.

Jerusalem. Helianthus Tuber osus. German, Erdapfel.
French, Topinambour. Spanish, Namara. — The Jerusalem arti-
choke or Tuberous-rooted sunflower is easily
grown from the tuber, and where the latter has
once taken possession of a field, is hard to
eradicate. Poor, gravelly soil, too dry for most
any other crop, suits this artichoke very well,
and will soon be filled with tubers. Plant in
open ground in April or May, in rows three

feet apart, placing the seed tubers 12 or 15 ~

*V ~, D Green Globe

inches apart, in the rows. They require no choke.

especial attention until dug, and are not
affected by frost if left in the ground. The varieties only differ
in the color of their tubers, and are named accordingly, Red-
skinned, White-skinned, etc.

USES. — The tubers, like potatoes, can serve as food for man
or beast. Sometimes they are eaten in the raw state, as pickles
or salad; sometimes they are boiled like potatoes ; but however

served, they can by no means be con-
sidered a great delicacy for the average
American taste. Flesh sweet and
watery. Hogs are very fond of the
tuber. I think that on a piece of land
having little value otherwise, the crop
would be quite a profitable one for
turning into pork, especially since we
can leave the job of harvesting entirely
to the pigs themselves. Hog snouts
are also the most convenient tool with
which to rid a piece of land of the

Jerusalem artichoke, when this becomes a nuisance, which it is
liable to do.

Arti-

JERU?A£M ARTICHOKE ROOTS1

142 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

ASPARAGUS.

Asparagus Officinalis. German, SpaygeL French, Asperge.
Spanish, Asparrago. — Asparagus not only gives us a most
excellent, wholesome and palatable vegetable, but also a great
quantity from a comparatively small area, and this at a time
when other fresh succulent vegetables are scarce, and the average
person's appetite sharp for just that kind of food after a long
period of " much meat and little vegetable." No wonder the
demand for the crop, in spite of heavy annual plantings, and
a steadily increasing area, has until now been larger than the
supply. Very little of it has thus far found its way to the
canning establishments, and it seems that these would be glad to
work up quantities of it, if a steady supply at reasonable rates
were available. The crop, in short, is, and probably will continue
to be, a paying one, both for the home gardener, whose little patch
supplies his table bountifully from April or May to July, for
eight or ten weeks, and for the market gardener near town or city
whose crop nets him from $200 to $400 per acre, and under very
favorable circumstances even more, and all this with comparatively
little labor and expense, and year after year when a bed or patch
has once been established, and reached bearing age. Yet many
home growers, especially among the farmers, have not yet learned
to appreciate this crop as they should for their own and their
family's good, and thus far fail to grasp the opportunities that it
offers.

GROWING THE PLANTS. — In order to grow a supply of first-
class plants, it is only necessary to sow seed thinly in drills one foot
apart, giving to each plant about two or three inches space in the
row. Of course, the soil should be well enriched, and thoroughly
prepared, and after sowing, well stirred between the plants by
means of hand wheel-hoe, hoe, rake, hand-weeder, etc. Weeds
must not be tolerated. In this way on rich, moist, mucky or sandy
soil I have often grown plants as large, and fully as good, as the
average two-year-old plants purchased of nurserymen. A surplus
of good plants can in most cases be disposed of to neighbors or
towns-people at a good price, say from 40 to 100 cents per 100
plants.

STARTING THE BED. — The price depends largely on earliness
and especially on size and general appearance. The earliest
" grass " brings the highest price, and market quotations taper off
gradually as the season advances. Large first-class stuff always
brings almost double what is paid for an inferior article. These
considerations should guide us in the selection of soil and site,
manuring, planting, etc. No factor that might have a tendency
to promote earliness, and size and quality of the " grass," can be

Cultural Directions. — 143

safely ignored. On the other hand we give the cold shoulder to
the old style of digging deep trenches, and filling the whole soil
with manure to a considerable depth as formerly practiced — as a
waste of labor and manure. Neither do we consider it necessary
to apply a great deal of manure when first setting the plants in
the permanent bed.

In the selection of soil and site, however, we will be apt to
exercise the greatest care. Our first choice will be a deep, warm,

Asparagus Grown Above Ground.

sandy loam, preferably slightly sloping to south or southeast,
our next choice a light clay loam. Porous subsoil is almost a
necessity, and the use of subsoil plow will be a great advantage
where this condition is not perfect. Prepare the ground thorougly
by plowing, harrowing, rolling.

The two ways of growing the crop, both for market and
home use, are illustrated in the accompanying figures. In the
first, the plants are set shallow, perhaps three or four inches
deep, and the stalks broken or cut off near the surface of ground,

green " grass,"

Asparagus Grown for City Markets.

when six or eight inches high. This gives us

always tender, but of a somewhat pronounced flavor. It is a

favorite way with the home grower, and in some particular

markets.

For most larger markets, especially that of New York city,
the stalks are grown under ground, as above illustrated, and
thus naturally blanched. It is true that the lower end of each
stalk is apt to be somewhat tough, and need* peeling and perhaps
shortening, but the flavor is decidedly milder, and of a more
refined character than that of the stronger-flavored green stalks.

144 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

The market gardener, of course, has to comply with the
demands of his available market ; the home grower may consult
his own individual taste and preference. I will only add that the
bleached " grass," when poorly grown in hard, starved soil, is
poor indeed ; but under good culture, in warm, mellow soil, it is
a superior article.

The preparation of the ground, setting the plants, and after-
culture, are much the same for both methods, except that the plants
are placed only three or four inches deep in one case, against
six or eight inches deep in the other.

DISTANCE OF PLANTS. — The size and consequent market value
of the stalks is influenced more by the amount of space allotted
to each plant, than by any other single circumstance, and for this
reason I consider wide planting the only sensible and safe course
for the market grower. Some of our most successful gardeners
make the rows six feet apart, with three or four feet distance
between the plants. Even then the roots completely fill the soil,
and interlock between the wide rows. Planting at this distance
admits of cultivation both ways. The least distance that should
be given in a bed expected to yield fine large stalks for many
years is five feet by two, requiring between 4000 and 5000 plants
to the acre; and nothing can be gained by planting closer.
Fifty plants thus set in good soil will furnish an abundant supply
of " grass " for a large family.

PLANTING. — Plow out furrows in well-prepared soil, at least
five feet apart, and 10 or 12 inches deep, or if less, at least as
deep as depth of surface soil will allow. Then scatter a few

inches of rich, well-rotted
compost into the furrows,
fill in about as much soil,
mixing this well with the
manure, and set the plants,
good, strong, one-year-old
to be preferred, at least
two feet apart, each upon
a little mound of soil and
with roots nicely and
evenly spread, in the man-
ner shown in picture, and at such a depth that the crowns will
be about 7 inches below the ground level. Then cover with two
inches of soil, and another dressing of fine rich compost. As the
plants grow, and in the due process of cultivation by horse, the
furrows are gradually filled up level with the surface.

AFTER CULTURE. — The bed should be kept well cultivated,
and free from weeds. The first season some hoed crop, like
potatoes, cabbages, radishes, turnips, etc., might be grown
between the rows, but in that case the application of the fertilizer

Planting Asparagus in Furrow.

Cultural Directions. — 145

required to make up for the removed plant food must not
be neglected. In the fall, and every fall afterwards, the tops
are to be cut before they shed their seed, taken off the field,
or piled up and burned. The young plants, that spring up
from seed carelessly left to drop, are sometimes worse than
weeds. Winter protection by covering with coarse litter or
otherwise is not needed except at the extreme north. The
stalks should all be left to grow the next (second) season,
and same thorough cultivation and general treatment given
as in the first. In the spring apply a top dressing of good
compost.

With careful planting in the way described, and strong
plants to begin with, the bed will yield a fair crop the third
season, and a full one every year afterwards. The wise grower
will cut sparingly the first cropping season, and always and
every season stop cutting at the first indication of weakness of
the plants. Long-continued cutting is a great strain on the
roots, and some rest is
absolutely needed to keep
them in health and strength.
Some kind of manure is
to be given every spring,
according to the needs of|
the soil. Compost may be
alternated with commercial
fertilizers. A good practice
followed by growers in

New Jersey and elsewhere, " Home-made Asparagus Buncher.
is to open a furrow with a

one-horse plow between each two rows, fill this with compost, and
turn the soil back upon it. Excessive manuring will hardly ever
be required. Salt may be beneficial in some cases, but generally
has little or no effect. Being a salt-water plant, asparagus can
stand almost any quantity of salt without injury, but it does not
show any partiality for it. All manures should be applied in
the spring, and an annual top-dressing of nitrate of soda, at the
time that the first shoots begin to start (in March or April), and
at the rate of 200 or 300 pounds per acre, is one of the surest-
paying investments.

When the time of cutting the stalks draws nigh, the rows
are nicely rounded off, as was shown on page 143, and the crop is
gathered every morning. Cutting has to be done with a careful
hand in order to avoid injury to the tops of other stalks that have
not yet reached the surface.

MARKETING. — Reject all the ill-shaped and under- sized stalks,
and using one of the modern asparagus bunchers now on sale
in every hardware store, make neat, firm bunches, which should

146 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

be about eight or nine inches long, and four or five in diameter,
holding two or three pounds of " grass". Rubber bands are
now coming in use in place of raffia or other tying materials ;
they save time and make a neat, salable package. The butt ends
of each bundle are squared by a smooth, clean cut. People
who have only a comparatively small area in asparagus, may, if
they prefer, bunch their stalks by means of a home-made
buncher, such as, for instance, is illustrated on page 145. It
needs no further description.

If the product is to be shipped to market, the bunches, to
insure their arrival in market in best condition, are packed in
some soft material, and pressed firmly and tightly into the package
to prevent injury by jarring or shaking about. Knives for cutting

Asparagus Knife.

the crop are kept on sale by hardware dealers, seedsmen, etc.
One of the various shapes is illustrated above. In an emergency
a common sharp kitchen knife will answer.

SUPERIOR METHOD FOR AMATEURS. — The home grower who
is after extra quality, can well afford to take a little extra pains in
the preparation of his bed. Instead of filling the furrows with
soil simply, he may prepare a very light, very porous compost
of fresh horse droppings, muck, wood,, or chip dirt, chaff, fine
sawdust, rotten forest leaves, etc. This material lies very loosely
over the crowns of the plants, and is warmed through very
easily by the sun rays, at the same time affording a good protec-
tion from cold. Instead of cutting the stalks with a knife, the
hand can be easily pushed down along them into the loose soil,
and the stalks snapped off at the base with a pressure of the
finger. Asparagus grown in this way is very superior, and it
may even be profitable when thus grown on a larger scale for
market. I have been well pleased with the results of one trial.

VARIETIES.

Conover's Colossal is the variety now generally grown
by both market and home growers. Philadelphia Mammoth,
recently introduced as an extra large and prolific sort, Palmetto,
and a few other newer varieties, have not been generally tested,
but deserve further trial.

BALM.

Melissa Officinalis. German, Citronen Melissc; French,
Melisse Citronelle; Spanish, Toronjil Citronella. — Although a
perennial, balm is usually cultivated as an annual. Sow seed in
finely prepared soil, in April or May, having drills one foot apart,

Cultural Directions. — 147

and thin or transplant to six or eight inches. It can also be
grown by division of the root. In that case plant in spring one
foot apart each way. All the green parts of the plant have
a most agreeable aromatic odor, especially
when bruised. The leaves are used for seasoning.

BASIL— SWEET.

Ocymum Basidcum. German, Basilienkraut;
French, Basilic; Spanish, Albaca. — Select light,
warm, rich soil, and sow in May, in drills one
foot apart, thinning or transplanting to 6 or 8
inches apart. The leaves have an agreeable
perfume and flavor and are used for seasoning.

Sweet Basil.

BEANS.

Phaseolus. German, Bohne ; French, Haricot; Spanish,
Judia. — Horticulturally we divide the varieties of this important
vegetable in two great sections — the Bush and the Pole varieties.
In the former we include all those usually grown as a field crop
for dry shelled beans, as also the various green-podded snaps,
and the yellow-podded wax beans. A more practical classifica-
tion could hardly be adopted, since the cultivation of all the
varieties of each section is pretty much the same.

BUSH BEANS.

The modest requirements of the crop are proverbial, and so
it is nothing uncommon to hear farmers speak of land " too poor
to raise white beans." Yet the fact which this suggests, is true
only in a very limited sense. Their cultivation is decidedly easy
and simple, and a crop can be grown on soils of most widely-
difTering character; but a crop worth growing cannot be produced
on soils exhausted of available mineral elements of plant food,
especially of potash. Wood ashes and other potash fertilizers
are generally of especial benefit to this crop.

All beans are somewhat tender, and should not be planted
until danger of late spring frosts is past, or until the time farmers
usually plant corn. For a field crop, on a large scale, seed is
best sown with a one or two-horse drill ; but it can also be done
with the garden drill. I prefer to lay off the land in furrows, three
feet or so apart, made with a common field marker, and to follow
with the drill in these marks. This deposits the seed just
about right, two or three inches deep, and if any of the beans
remain uncovered in the rows, I follow, cover and firm them
with the feet. In the garden I simply open furrows, either with
a hand plow, or with the hoe, or in any other convenient way,
scatter the seed an inch or two apart in the furrow, and

148 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

immediately cover the soil in over the seed with the feet, firming
the soil as I go, in one operation. For the first crop we may select
land just cleared from early radishes or spinach, and for successive
crops, any ground as it becomes vacant, continuing the planting
every two weeks until July or August. The width of rows may
be varied between one and one-half and three feet, according to
the gardener's convenience and the fertility of the soil. For it
is a very general rule, applicable to all crops, that for best results
we must plant the closer the poorer the ground, and the wider
the richer it is.

After-culture consists in simply keeping the ground well
stirred, either with horse or hand cultivator, and free from weeds
and in drawing up the soil slightly to the rows when the plants
have attained some size. An old precept warns against hoeing
or working among beans when the leaves are wet with rain or dew,
as rendering them liable to become affected with rust under this

treatment. The statement is
periodically passed around in
the agricultural press. Profes-
sional writers, who are not
always practical gardeners, love
to repeat it. I am not afraid to
hoe my bean vines any time that
it is convenient for me to do so ;
and I have never yet noticed
the bad results prophesied.

HARVESTING DRY SHELLED
BEANS. — The field varieties, or
any of the garden sorts grown
for seed on a large scale, are

harvested as soon as ripe, best
Round Pod Valentine. by means of Qne of the modern

devices constructed for the purpose, and operated by one or two
horses, or the plants are pulled up by hand, laid in rows on the
ground, and when sufficiently cured, put in small stocks, or
taken to the barn and in due time thrashed out and cleaned.
Beans intended for market must be picked over by hand — a some-
what tedious operation, which, however, can be performed during
the winter and winter evenings at leisure, and by cheap labor.

Along the coast, near the principal shipping places, from Vir-
ginia to Florida, string or snap beans are quite extensively grown
for northern markets ; and there they generally pay quite well.

VARIETIES.

Early Round Pod Valentine resembles the older Early
Red Valentine in every way, but is somewhat earlier. In this we
have probably the best variety for market garden purposes.

Cultural Directions. — 149

Early Valentine. The pods are fleshy, tender, succulent,
and remain on the vines in condition for table use longer than
those of most other varieties. Seeds speckled.

Yellow Six Weeks. — Very early, with straight flat pods.

Early Mohawk. A hardy, early sort, and of oldrestablished
reputation. Color of seeds, a kind of drab, spotted with purple.

Refugee. (Thousand -to-one.) — Somewhat later than the
preceding two, but very productive; pods tender; seed speckled.
Largely grown for pickling.

Nonpareil Green Pod. — About the very last bean to
mature ; a wonderfully vigorous grower ; vines being always full
of numbers of long dark green pods.

Best of All. A medium early, thritty and productive
variety. Pods are long, stringless and of good quality.

The leading sorts grown in field culture as dry shelled beans
are White Marrowfat, Navy or Pea Bean, Prolific Tree
Bean, Red and White Kidney
Bean. The newly introduced
Burlingame Mediums is
claimed to be the earliest,
hardiest and most productive
field bean in America. The
wax sorts, with their tender,
delicate yellowish pods, are
especially suited for culture in
the home garden. The list of
varieties has been swelled very
largely by recent introductions.
We may choose among a large
number and hardly make a miss. Maule s Butter Wax"

Black Wax is one of the older standard sorts, with tender,
waxy, yellow pods. Seed black.

White Wax differs from the preceding chiefly in color of
the seed, which is white.

Yosemite. — No other dwarf bush bean approaches Yosemite
in size; the pods being often eight to ten inches long, and as thick as
a man's finger. The pods are nearly all solid meat, and stringless,
always cooking tender and delicious. It is enormously prolific.

New Prolific German Wax. — A decided improvement on
the old German Butter Wax, and more than twice as prolific.
The very handsome, golden yellow pods, entirely stringless, are
borne in immense quantities on every plant.

Golden Wax, one of the newer introductions, is early,
prolific, and altogether reliable both for market and home use.

Maule's Butter Wax. — A very early wax bean of superior
quality ; full of solid meat, as a pithy or hollow pod can seldom
be found.

150 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Perfection or Flageolet Wax resembles the preceding, but
is characterized by remarkable vigor of plant and productiveness.

Ivory Pod Wax. A moderate grower only, but producing
tender, exquisitely delicate, white, waxy pods in great profusion,
and during a longer period than most other bush sorts.
Especially valuable for the home garden.

POLE OR RUNNING BEANS.

The running or pole varieties are still tenderer than the
bush sorts, and should not be planted until the weather has
become thoroughly settled, and the ground warm in spring.
Seed, when planted in cold, wet ground, is much more liable to
rot than to germinate. All, especially that king of beans, the
Lima, need high culture, and succeed best in rich, sandy
loam, but can be grown in any rich, warm soil. The Limas
are one of those crops that find ready sale in almost any
larger market, and in suitable localities are grown with fair profit.

The usual way of proceeding is to set poles four feet
apart each way. These poles, as used by most growers, are
from eight to ten feet high, which I think is from two to four
feet more than is really necessary, or even of advantage. The
height of pole should correspond with the length of the season
in any given locality, five or six feet being fully sufficient, and
better than more, for the short northern season. At the south
they might be a foot or two longer, as this will have a tendency
to lengthen the bearing period.

The hills, previous to setting the poles, should be made
rich and porous, by mixing a shovelful or two of well-rotted
compost with the soil. Five or six seeds are then to be planted
in a circle around each pole. Press each one firmly into the
soil, nearly or fully two inches deep. All our old precepts
agree in recommending to place the seed eye downward. Prof.
Halstead, upsetting this old theory, proves that the seeds should
always be planted flat on their side. In practice, however, it
seems to make little, if any difference, and in drill planting I
simply scatter the seed in the furrow and cover them up with
feet or hoe.

Thorough cultivation and frequent hoeing will make the
young plants grow rapidly and vigorously, and soon the vines
will require tying to the poles. The pods are gathered as the
seeds in them get large, and shelled for market or the table.
In some localities the beans are sold in the pod. The ripe beans
also find a willing market at from $4.00 upwards per bushel,
and the crop is generally a profitable one in either case.

In my own practice I prefer to grow the Limas and
other running sorts on a trellis instead of poles. The
illustration on next page shows a small section of what

Cultural Directions. — 151

I am tempted to call a model trellis for this purpose.
Heavy posts are set firmly and deeply into the ground
at the ends of each row, and smaller or stout stakes at intervals
of 1 8 or 20 feet between them. The upper end of posts and
stakes is sawed off square at a height of five feet, and in line, so
that a perfectly straight wire (10 or 12 size) can be run from end to
end over the tops, where it is held by simple wire staples, but
firmly fastened to the end posts, which, for safety's sake, should
be firmly braced. A lighter wire or twine is run from post to
post at a height of about 6 inches from the ground, and common
white cotton yarn wound zig-zag around the two wires (or the
wire and twine). Usually I have a row of Limas, etc., in this
shape on one side of my kitchen garden, running its entire
length, and fully four feet away from other vegetables, in order
to give a fair chance for thorough horse work. I also aim to set
the posts straight and uniform, to stretch the wires reasonably
tight, and to adjust the yarn regularly; and I can assure you that
this trellis is not only useful, but when vine-clad, also quite an

Trellis for Lima Beans.

ornament to the garden. With such a trellis the vines require
very little attention in the way of fastening to the strings. The
latter are so temptingly near, that the runners take hold without
much coaxing.

One of the most important advantages of this trellis style
over the pole method, I find is the opportunity which it affords
us to plant the Limas in a continuous row. Here I use
plenty of seed, for I am anxious to secure a full stand, and prefer
pulling up plants rather than have vacant spots that spoil the
looks of the whole, and materially diminish the yield. Should a
bare space occur after all, it is easy enough to fill it with plants
taken up from where they stand pretty thickly. Lima beans
transplant quite readily, especially if lifted after a rain. Care-
fully take up a clump of soil with a few plants on it, on a spade
or trowel, and set where needed to fill a gap.

The royal Lima requires a pretty long season. Many
gardeners pinch the ends of the runners after they have made
five or six feet of growth, for the purpose of hastening the crop.
This treatment is not needed, especially with short poles or the

152— How to Make the Garden Pay.

five-foot trellis, since the forced downward course of the vines,
after they have reached the highest point of the comparatively
low support, gives us practically the same effect as pinching back.
The great fault of the Limas in the northern states is their
lateness. We often only get a small part of the crop to reach
table size, not to mention the difficulty of getting them to mature
on the vines. To make the crop earlier by a week or two, the
seed can be planted in a cold frame or hot-bed, either in pots or
on pieces of inverted sod, about two or three weeks before it
could be safely planted in the open ground. At the proper time,
the sods, or the plants turned out of the pots, are then set 4 feet
each way for poles, or 2 feet in the row if for trellis.
Three or four good plants are left to grow in each hill in the
former case, and two plants only in the latter. When seed is
planted in drills, as described for my trellis method, the plants, of
course have to be properly thinned, one to every 9 or 12 inches.

VARIETIES.

I have tested about a dozen different varieties of the Lima
bean, but found next to no difference in time of giving earliest
picking.

Large Lima. — This is the old standard sort, reliable and
productive. Salem Improved is introduced as a selected and
superior strain of this.

Extra Early, Early Jersey, or Extra Early Jersey. —
Proves to be slightly earlier than the Large Lima, and is claimed
to be the earliest of this class. Pods are quite long, and well
filled. I have picked pods containing seven and eight seeds each
in New Jersey.

Dreer's Lima gives quite short, but closely-filled pods.
The seeds are rounder and plumper than those of any other Lima,
and of superior quality. A fine variety for the home grower, and
profitable for the market gardener who sells the shelled bean, or
for the consumer who buys in the pod.

King of the Garden. — Pods of enormous size, beans
large. The reverse of Dreer's — profitable to sell in the pod,
and to buy shelled.

Red and Speckled Lima are newer introductions of
strong and vigorous growth, about as early as the earliest, and
decidedly prolific. Seed of fine, rich flavor, but objectionable
in color, and consequently not wanted for market.

Small Lima or Sieva. — I cannot see that this makes up fc.
earliness for what it lacks in size, productiveness and flavor. So
I have no use for it in my garden.

Henderson's Bush Lima might be included in this list.
It appears to be a dwarf sport of the Small Lima or Sieva,
resembling it in every respect except habit of growth. Its bush

Cultural Directions. — 153

form, great product-
iveness and extreme
^arliness are its chief
points of merits. The
Large Lima is now
also reduced to bush
form in Burpee's
Large Bush Lima,
and Dreer's Lima in
the Kumerle Lima.

Of other pole vari-
eties, I will mention
White Creaseback, a
green-podded pole
string bean, claimed to
be the earliest of that
Lazy Wives. cjags Golden Cluster.

German Wax, Golden Wax and Golden Cluster are
yellow-podded running sorts for both string and shell beans.

154 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Lazy Wives. — Pods are wonderfully broad, thick, fleshy,
and above all entirely stringless, retaining their stringless and
tender qualities until they are almost ripe. The vines cling
remarkably well to the poles. Pods are rather flattish, oval
shape, and when fully grown are from four to six inches long.

Horticultural, Speckled Cranberry or Quail Track, much
esteemed for the home garden. Seeds oval, speckled.

Improved Dutch Runner has many of the characteristics
of the Lima in growth, and is very productive. Beans clear
white and of largest size. Next to the Lima, the best for market.

Scarlet Runner. — A strong grower; flowers of beautiful
scarlet, and produced in great abundance. Probably more
ornamental, than useful for the table.

BEETS.

Beta Vulgaris. German, Rothe Rube ; French, Betterave.
Beets for early bunching are a leading crop of the market
garden, and generally quite a profitable one. I have already in
a former chapter alluded to their cultivation under glass, in cold
frames, and cold houses. In open air they are grown in a
similar way, only more space is usually given,
and no radishes are grown between them as
a secondary crop. Rich warm soil (sandy
loam) is the chief requisite. It is well-
manured with rotted compost, and prepared
as for other small vegetables, that is to say,
plowed well, harrowed well, and made thor-
oughly smooth, if necessary with steel rake.
In early spring when soil conditions and
weather will permit, the seed is sown in drills
from 12 to 1 8 inches apart, and clean and
thorough cultivation given from the start.
The crop is especially grateful for one or more
applications of nitrate of soda, and can be
largely increased or made earlier by this
means.' The market gardener's aim is to get
a uniform lot of roots, bunch them for market
while small (two to three inches in diameter),
clear the land at the earliest possible date, and
replant to some other crop. From this stand-
point he must thin to a uniform distance of
three or four inches soon after the plants
have made a few leaves ; and since he does not intend to let the
plants grow to large size in the bed, he can make the rows as
close as he may desire, 12 inches distance between them being
ample. In the kitchen garden we usually have the rows 15 or

Cultural Directions. — 155

1 8 inches apart, since we prefer to use up the crop gradually,
perhaps thinning at first for greens, then beginning to pull the
roots when yet small, and continue using them as we desire for
the table, thinning all the time,
and perhaps leaving the last of
the crop to attain quite a res-
pectable size. For a succession,
seed can be sown every two
weeks until midsummer, if
desired. A supply for winter
use may be stored in boxes, =
barrels or heaps in the cellar,
but should always be kept cov-
ered with sand, soil, sods, etc.,
to prevent evaporation, and
consequent wilting, and shriv-
elling of the roots. The pitting j
method, as hereafter described

for mangel wurzels, can hardly be
improved upon for keeping beets
fresh, crisp, and in best table condi-
tion generally, until spring.

VARIETIES.

Extra Early Egyptian, Early
Egyptian or Egyptian Turnip. —
This and the Eclipse are now almost
the only kinds grown for early
market in many localities. Tops
small. Roots of a uniform deep

, _ blood color, and of rapid growth.

Improved Blood Turmp. ^ for forcjng

Eclipse. — This is now preferred to the Egyptian by many
gardeners. Flesh much lighter in color. About as early, and
idecidedly a good variety.

Bastian's Early Turnip,

Philadelphia Lentz Early Turnip,

Blood Turnip,

Improved Blood Turnip,

156 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Early Bassano,
Edmand's Turnip, etc.

All these belong to the class of " Blood Turnip Beets," ana
are good early or intermediate sorts for the home garden every-
where, and for market in many places. All are so reliable, it
would not be easy to choose the best among them.

New Market Gardeners, is very symmetrical, with small
tap-root, and but few fibrous roots. One sowing only is
necessary to produce early beets for market and main crop for

winter use. Color outside is deep
red; inside layers of blood red
and light red alternately.

Half Long Blood is in shape
what the name indicates. Good
for second early, late fall or winter.
(Long or) Improved Long
Blood still remains a standard
late and winter variety, excellent
for the kitchen garden. Color of
root a dark crimson.

Swiss Chard forms no edible
root, and is cultivated mainly for
its leaves, which make very fair
greens, like spinach. The coarse
midribs of the leaves are some-
times served like asparagus, and
by some pronounced a good sub-
stitute for it. There are also
varieties having variegated and quite ornamental foliage, and we
sometimes meet them in flower gardens and borders.

BEET. — Mangel-Wurzel and Sugar.

Root crops for stock (horses, cattle, sheep, swine), chief
among them the mangels, sugar beets and carrots, are not yet
appreciated as a farm crop by our people as they deserve to be.
I have grown such crops for many years, to a greater or smaller
extent, and can assure my friends that they are exceedingly
profitable. Such immense amounts of succulent food for winter
and spring feeding, in the shape of mangels, can be produced on
comparatively small areas, when well managed, that I am con-
vinced any farmer who keeps stock, but makes no use of the
silo method, will never again omit planting mangels, carrots or
both, after having once made a thorough trial in the right way.
This latter is the important point ; for if mismanaged, the first
trial is apt to result in utter disgust. Begin cautiously ; plant a
small area, and never more than you are sure you can give

Cultural Directions. — 157

prompt attention when needed. This will show the novice
how to proceed, and insure his success, even on an enlarged
scale.

PLANTING MANGELS. — The safest way, especially for the
beginner or when cultivating a somewhat large area, is to plant
wide enough for easy cultivation by horse power — say in drills
three feet apart. Select any piece of good, clean farm land, but
giving a young clover sod the prefer-
ence. Cart on plenty of good fine
manure ; 40 loads to the acre is not
too much, and even more will pay.
This is plowed in ; or composted
poultry manure, in smaller quantity,
may be applied after plowing, and
harrowed in. Get the land in good
condition for sowing the seed, by the
use of roller, smoothing harrow, or, if
you have it, of the small disk (Meeker)
harrow. The surface should be smooth
and fine. A good way of sowing seed
is with a grain drill, with part of the
discharge tubes thrown out of gear, so
that those in operation will leave the
drills somewhere near three feet apart.

Or the field may be marked off in shallow furrows, of distance
mentioned, with a common field marker, and seed sown with
the garden drill, following in the marks and sowing about four
pounds of seed to the acre. If you have no drill, you can
simply drop a pinch of seed (three or four) every 1 2 inches
apart in furrows made same as for planting corn, preferably
one and a half inches deep. Then cover with the hoe or foot,
and firm by stepping upon it, or pressing soil upon it with the

158 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

back of hoe. A few radish seeds might also be scattered along
the rows with the beet seed. The radishes will better indicate
the rows, so that we can begin to cultivate a few days after sow-
ing. The radishes may be pulled up when of table or market-
able size.

CULTIVATION. — Prompt action is the all important point.
Weeds should never be allowed to crowd. Cultivate with a
narrow-bladed horse-hoe or cultivator; hoe as often as needed,
and while the plants are young, run the hand wheel-hoe astraddle
the rows, to keep them as near as possible free from weeds with-
out much hand hoeing or hand
weeding. Thinning should be
attended to before the plants
begin to crowd one another.
Most of this work can be done
with a hoe, and since we desire
but one good plant to 10 or 12
inches of drill, we can easily
strike out the plants and weeds
growing on the spaces between.
Of course there may be a num-
ber of plants left on each clump
near the plant we wish to save,
especially where the seed was
sowed like corn (in pinches).
We then have to pull up the
surplus plants by hand.

GATHERING AND STORING. —
Thorough cultivation and timely
attention on good and well-
manured land is pretty apt to
bring a crop that will astonish
the novice, as a yield of 40, 60,
and even more tons to the acre
is not uncommon under favor-
able circumstances. Before frost,

in autumn, the beets are pulled by hand and thrown in heaps to be
topped (i. e.y foliage cut off with a sickle or corn cutter) and drawn
to the cellar or pit. The best storage place, undoubtedly, is a reg-
ular root cellar in the basement of the barn. A separate root or
potato cellar, such as a dug-out in a hill-side, or the root cellar
described for the winter storage of celery, also makes a very good
place for beets, carrots, etc., to be fed out during winter and spring.
If we have neither of these conveniences, we must store what we
want to use during winter in the cellar we have at our command,
although it is not a wise nor safe-practice to store many vegetables
and fruits under the rooms in which we live, and rear a family.

Cultural Directions. — 159

No difficulty will be experienced in carrying root crops over
until spring in pits outdoors, in same way as farmers frequently
winter apples and potatoes. Select a dry spot or one for which
drainage can easily be provided, and dig an excavation about a
foot or 1 8 inches deep, 6 feet wide, and of the length required to
hold the quantity of roots to be wintered over. They are placed
in a conical heap, as shown in illustration on page 160, covered
with six, eight, ten or twelve inches of straw,
according to the severity of the winters in the
particular locality, and with a foot of soil
upon the straw. A whisk of straw or a sec-
tion of common tile drain, reaching from the
straw covering through the soil to the outside,
should be adjusted in the centre of every eight
or ten foot section to provide the required
ventilation. If such a pit is opened before the
cold weather has entirely passed, the roots
remaining in it need careful covering to guard
against freezing.

VARIETIES.

Long Red. — This with its various strains
and improvements, Prize Long Red, Jumbo,
etc., is the variety for rich, deep soil, where it
grows to enormous size.

Yellow Tankard, Golden Tankard.— A
beautiful, solid and prolific variety. Flesh rich,
deep yellow all through.

Yellow Globe and its various strains,
Champion Yellow Globe, Kinver Globe,
etc., are preferable for shallower soil, and
reliable for all. Roundish in shape, beautiful,
solid, and altogether desirable. When young
they make very fine table beets; by many
people even preferred to the Blood varieties.

Giant Yellow Intermediate. — This new
variety has a magnificent root, which is easily
lifted from the ground. Produces very large
crops, and has proven itself to be a most
excellent keeper. Has a fine neck, large
leaves with green stems, and very smooth skin ;
sweet.

Gatepost. — One of the very finest mangels,
heavy, handsome and clean, with single tap-root. Very rich
and nutritious. With good cultivation crops at the rate of 2500
bushels per acre have been grown.

flesh firm and

The roots are

160 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Imperial Sugar, like all other sugar beet varieties, does
not yield quite as handsomely as the mangels, but makes up in
richness what it lacks in yield. Especially profitable for cows.

W':<:':-:' •'•'•-

Pit for Wintering Potatoes, Root Crops, etc.

BORECOLE (See Kale).

BORAGE.

B or ago Officinalis. German, Borretsch ; French, Bourrache ;
Spanish, Boraja. — This annual, which is of free-flowering habit
and grows to a .height of a foot or 18 inches, is rarely found in
American gardens. It can be grown as easily as a weed, by
sowing the seed in any corner or waste place in spring or
summer. Some uses, not known to me, are made of it in
cookery, and also in medical science.

BROCCOLI.

Brassica Oleracea (Botrytis). — German, Spargel Kohl;
French, Chou-fleur d'Hiver; Spanish, Broculi. — In broccoli we
have little more than a cauliflower under another name. It thrives
under the same conditions of culture, namely,
moist, fertile soil and cool atmosphere, and is
always grown for fall and winter use. Seed is
sown in seed bed in May, or later further
south ; and plants may be set in July (August
or September in southern latitudes) in well-
^^ manured and well-prepared soil, 2^4 to 3 feet
by \y2 feet apart. Cultivate and hoe fre-
quently. Heat and drought are the great
enemies of the crop, and often prove fatal. A good crop, like
that of the cauliflower, however, hardly ever fails to be very
profitable,

Cultural Directions. — 161

VARIETIES.

White Cape and Purple Cape are the varieties generally
grown in America. More than forty different forms or varieties
of broccoli are known to English gardeners.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

Brassica Oleracea. — German, Bt usseler Sprossen Kohl ;
French, Chou de Bruxelles. — The " head " of this cabbage variety
consists of a few loose, crumpled leaves borne on a tall stalk, and
no culinary use is made of it. The stalk itself, however, is
surrounded and often completely covered by the " sprouts/'
which are miniature cabbage heads, seldom much larger than a
walnut, and of choicest quality, not inferior to cauli-
flower. While it is as easily grown as a cabbage, it is
seldom found in American gardens. There seems to
be a good demand for it in city markets, and the crop
can be made as remunerative as cauliflower. Sow
seed in April or May, and in July set the plants about
two feet apart in soil prepared as for late cabbages,
giving about the same cultivation. The sprouts will
be ready for use in autumn, and until severe freezing.
Where, as in the south, the plants endure the winters Brussels
in open ground uninjured, a supply of sprouts can be Sprouts,
had until spring. In gathering, they should not be broken off,
but cut off the stems with a sharp knife, leaving as much of the
spur as possibl-e, in order to induce the formation of successive

SPrOUtS' VARIETIES

Dwarf Brussels Sprouts. — This is the variety generally
catalogued by American seedsmen. It is of low, compact growth,
and produces the little heads closely all around the stalk.

Tall Improved. — The stem of this is much taller, and the
heads grow more scatteringly around it.

CABBAGE.

Brassica Oleracea. German, Kopfkohl ; French, Chou;
Spanish, Col Re polio.

GROWING FOR EARLY MARKET. — Early cabbages are one of
the foremost crops of the market garden, and usually yield a fair
profit. The plants are started in September, and wintered over
as directed in chapter on " cold frames," or grown in hot-houses or
hot-beds during the second half of winter. When grown in the
latter way, great pains should be taken to have the plants
thoroughly hardened off, for they are to be set as soon as the
ground can be put in working order, and in all probability will
have to endure considerable cold and uncomfortable weather.

162 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Selection of soil for the crop is also of utmost importance.
Nothing can be better than a rich calcareous or sandy loam,
naturally drained, and manured with at least 40 tons of good com-
post to the acre, or in the place of it a proportionate quantity
of wood ashes (a most excellent fertilizer for cabbages, by the
way), complete concentrated (commercial) fertilizers, etc. Fall
plowing, throwing up the soil in ridges to better expose it to
freezing and thawing, always tends to improve the mechanical
condition of the soil, and to get it in planting condition much
earlier in spring than could be expected otherwise. Mark off
rows from 2 to 2^4 feet apart, and set the plants 16 or 18 inches

apart in the rows, and down
into the ground to the heart.
Cultivate and hoe frequently
to keep the ground mellow,
moist, and free from weeds.
Occasional dressings of
nitrate of soda, at
the rate of 250 to
300 pounds in the
aggregate, will sel-
dom fail to pay
exceedingly well. It
is not necessary,
either, as is often
recommended, that
these applications
should be made dur-
ing or just before
a rain. When the
ground is reasonably
moist, the effect is
sure, and all the
more lasting; even
if it should not rain
for a week or longer after applying it. Look out for the maggot,
and if necessary resort to the remedies found in the chapter on
"insects.''

This is the market gardener's method. The home gardener
is less anxious to get cabbages for the table in May or June.
If he is content to wait until nearly July for a really superior
article, he may adopt my method of sowing early in the spring
(March or April) in open ground, in drills 2 or 2^2 feet apart,
and thinning to 15 or 18 inches in the drills, leaving the best
plants. For a second early crop the market gardener can also
sow seed in April, and transplant in May to the permanent patch,
or thin to the proper distance apart.

Wintering Cat

Cultural Directions. — 163

LATE CABBAGES. — These are much more a farm than a market
garden crop, and as a farm crop are often quite profitable. A
possible surplus, as well as the waste and all the unmarketable
part of the crop can generally be put to good use in the cattle
yard. Sow seed during May in seed bed, and transplant during
June in well-prepared and liberally-manured soil, making rows

Wintering Cabbages in Pit.

three feet apart, and plants from I y2 to 3 feet apart in the row,
according to vigor of variety, and strength of ground ; or sow
thinly during June in drills three feet apart, and afterwards thin
to the proper distance. In either case thorough cultivation
and frequent hoeing are conditions of best success. The inter-
mediate varieties, such as Winningstadt, Fottler's, etc., will
often give good heads for winter, at least in a moist season,
even if sown as late as July. A handful of good fertilizer, bone-
dust, potash, etc., (according to the needs of the soil) or a some-
what larger quantity of wood-ashes or composted hen manure,
scattered around the plant after
it has become well established
after transplanting, as also light
dressings of nitrate of soda, are
always a great help. All of
our hard-heading cabbages, when
they are approaching maturity,
and are not soon gathered, are
liable to burst open or crack,
which spoils them for market
if not for use. Heads show- Express,

ing this inclination may be pushed or pulled over to one
side. This breaks or loosens part of their roots, and for some
reason appears to counteract the undesirable tendency. I still
have to add that cabbages should not be grown soon after
cabbages on the same land. Club-root — a disease which attacks
the root, and hinders the full development of the plants — is the
usual penalty of a violation of this rule.

164 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

METHODS OF WINTERING. — There are numerous ways in
which cabbages can be kept successfully for home use, or the often
good market during latter part of winter or early spring. A
general rule is applicable to all methods. It is this, to pull the

crop on a dry day, and
pack it only when per-
fectly dry. Also put off
the final covering, or
storing in buildings, cel-
lars, etc., as long in the
fall as can be safely done.
One of the most com-
monly practised methods
is to wrap the outer
leaves of each plant
firmly around the head,
and stand root side up
closely together, either
in single line or in a
close double row, with
Early Wakefield. Qr without another layer

on top; then plow a furrow from each side to the ridge of

cabbages thus formed, and finish covering up with soil, using

shovel or spade, leaving only the extremities of the roots sticking

out. The illustration on page 162 represents a cross section

of each of the three arrangements. Another good way to store

cabbages is to put them in pits, like root crops. The excavation

is made 6 or 8 inches deep, 4 feet wide, and as long as needed

to make room for the

quantity of cabbages

desired to store. Here

the heads are packed in

a conical heap, roots

inward, and covered

with 8 or 10 inches of

soil, packed firmly. In

case we should want to

use all or part of them

during the winter, it will

be a good precaution to

cover the south side of

pit with straw or other

dry litter deep enough

to keep the soil from freezing, and thus secure easy access to the

cabbages whenever wanted. An improvement on this method

was recently published in the Rural New Yorker. Boards or

slabs are placed on bottom of pit. The cabbages, well trimmed

Etampes.

Cultural Directions. — 165

and dry, are packed in, as was illustrated on page 163. Tri-
angular frames of 2 by 4 scantling are then set upright into
the pit, one at each end only if pit is less than 8 or 9 feet long,
one additional in the centre for a pit of from 9 to 15 feet in
length; and common
fence boards are nailed
to them, thus forming
something like a large
three - cornered crate
around the cabbages.
This is lightly covered
with straw, and 4 to 6
inches of soil upon
that. The ends need
only be stuffed with
dry straw, which will
give free access to the
contents of pit at any
time. I know of no simpler or better method than this. For
wintering a few dozen heads only, a barrel may be sunk into
the ground to the brim, rilled with trimmed heads, covered
with dry forest leaves, chaff, etc., and a simple roof to exclude

Midsummer.

rain and snow. The cellar under the dwelling house is, for sani-
tary reasons, hardly a place for storing cabbages ; but a very few
after removal of the coarse outside leaves, may each be wrapped
in several thicknesses of common newspaper, so that only the

i66 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

roots are showing outside, and hung up in a convenient place in
the cellar. Farmers might put a load of cabbages in some corner
of the barn, on the floor, hay-mow, etc., and keep them lightly
covered with loose straw, and thus have them ready for use at
any time during the winter that they may desire them. The
regular root cellar is also a good storing place for cabbages.

VARIETIES.

Of these we have an endless number, and among them
quite a good many that are very good. In fact, we have so
much choice that the selection often puzzles us. Of many
varieties again, we have almost as many strains or selections as
we have leading seedsmen. Often the difference between many

of these strains and the original type are decidedly "strained,"
and too nice for us clumsy observers ; again, they are. often so
strikingly distinct that they give us the difference between very
indifferent and quite complete success, and this, I repeat, merely
from different selections — strains — of one and the same variety.

A serious fault of many of the cabbage seeds that I have
bought of various sources during recent years, is their somewhat
<4 mixed " condition. We often get too many sorts in one and
the same lot, and the consequence is a mixture of all sorts. The
evil seems to be on the increase, too. In justice to the publisher
of my work — Mr. Maule — I have to say that I have been much
pleased with both the high quality, and the purity of all the
cabbage seeds I have had of him. I cannot agree with him and

Cultural Directions. — 167

other leading seedsmen, however, in regard to the wisdom and
propriety of their nomenclature, especially their methods of
multiplying names by adding their own for the sake of distin-
guishing strains.

EARLY VARIETIES.

Early Wakefield. In this we have yet the leading early
market variety, making solid, conical heads, with few loose outer
leaves. For both home and market garden it has no superior as
an early sort. Seed of this is grown quite extensively on Long
Island, and I have
always had excellent
success with it

Earliest Etampes.
Much spoken of as a
good market variety,
earlier than the preced-
ing, while it is decidedly
reliable. I have never
been able to discover

Flat Dutch.

more than a slight difference in
earliness between the two kinds (in
favor of the Etampes), nor other
points of merit above those of the
best strains of Wakefield.

Early Express. Another early
variety of the Wakefield type, intro-
duced as considerably earlier than
that variety, and profitable for early
market. Said to produce heads in

70 to 75 days from time of sowing seed.

Early York, and Early French Oxheart, being extremely

early, were formerly the leading sorts for market ; but since their

heads are little more than loose bunches of leaves, they have

deservedly lost favor with the growers.

INTERMEDIATE VARIETIES.

Early Winningstadt should be planted by all who have
usually but indifferent success with other varieties. As a sure
header, even under adverse circumstances, it has no peer ; and in
spite of its earliness, it forms large cone-shaped heads, which are
of good quality. It is emphatically the home grower's and the

Surehead.

168 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

novice's sort, and can be planted for early, intermediate and late,

by planting at different times, sometimes as late as July, even at

the north.

Early Summer comes a week or two after Wakefield, is

much larger with round, flat heads, of excellent quality, and

altogether one ol the best am most reliable second early market

sorts, and desirable in the home garden also.

Midsummer. — Very nearly as early as the Early Summer,

and at the same time producing very much larger heads, which

for solidity and compactness cannot be surpassed. It is a

remarkably sure header, and for a market crop is one of the

most profitable varieties.

Fottler's Improved, or Improved Brunswick. — This

large, hard-heading and reliable sort can be grown alike for

summer, fall or win-
ter use, and is the
earliest of the large
Drumheads.

Early Bleichfield
Giant also makes
large, solid heads,
with dark green
leaves, and is reliable
for second early.

Early Flat Dutch
is a good early sort
of the Flat Dutch
class, with good-
sized heads, and
can be recommended
especially for the
south, as it seems

to stand heat better than many other varieties.

Blood- Red Erfurt makes extremely solid heads of a deep

red color. Used for pickling. May be planted for both early

and late.

LATE VARIETIES.

Prize Flat Dutch, Large Flat Dutch, Excelsior Flat
Dutch, etc., is a thoroughly reliable short-stemmed late variety,
forming large flat heads. Good for both market and home use,
and deservedly popular.

Surehead is introduced as an improved sort of the Flat
Dutch type, and I find it pretty much what its name indicates.
Can be planted with entire confidence.

Red Dutch is the best late pickling sort, with round and
extremely hard heads, and dark red in color.

Cultural Directions. — 169

Mammoth Red Rock. This is the largest and hardest
heading red cabbage in cultivation. Successful Long Island
market gardeners will raise no other kind of red cabbage, for
they consider this the best of all. The heads frequently average
1 2 pounds each, and it is a very sure cropper.

Stone Mason, much grown in New England States, makes
very solid heads, and is quite popular at the north.

Large Late American Drumhead, with its various strains
(Louisville Drumhead, Short-Stemmed Drumhead, etc.), is a late
sort with very solid heads of good quality. Decidedly a good
variety, both for market and home use.

Felderkraut. — A German variety, especially desirable in
making krout; heads large, hard and solid.

Drumhead Savoy. — Few cabbages have given us as much
satisfaction in the home garden as the Savoys. In quality they
are far ahead of the common varieties, and not so very inferior
even to the cauliflowers. The Drumhead Savoy, in addition/can
be depended upon to yield large, solid heads under fairly favor-
able conditions, and also stands high as a winter keeper. It
deserves to be more generally planted.

Marblehead Mammoth is undoubtedly the largest of all
our cabbages, and makes firm heads of good quality ; but need:]
high culture and the entire season to come to perfection. It n
especially recommended for warmer latitudes.

CARDOON.

Cynara Cardunculus. German, Spanische Artischoke ,
French, Car don ; Spanish, Cardo. Cardoon is one of the
many vegetables quite commonly grown on
the Continent of Europe, especially in
France, yet almost entirely unknown to
American cultivators. Neither is there any
prospect for its coming in general use. I
confess I have not yet seen it in a single
American kitchen garden. It belongs to
the same species as the Artichoke. Its leaf-
stalks, blanched like celery, are used for
salads, in soups, etc. Sow seed in early
spring, in very rich, and moist soil, having
rows 3 feet apart ; then thin the plants to
I y2 or 2 feet apart in the rows. Give good
cultivation, and in autumn tie up the leaves Cardoon.

with matting or bands of straw or hay,
covering them up entirely almost to the tips of leaves, then earth
up like celery. In four or five weeks the hearts will be blanched
enough for use. Take up before frost and store like celery.

170— How to Make the Garden Pay,

CARAWAY.

Carum Carui. German, Kummel ; French, Carvi Cumin;
Spanish, Carvi. A common European biennial meadow weed.
Seeds used in flavoring bread, cheese, pastry and sauces. Seed
may be sown in spring or fall, in drills. Little or no culti-
vation is required except to thin, and keep reasonably free from
weeds.

CARROTS.

Daucus Car ota. German, Mohre, Mohrrube ; French,
Carotte ; Spanish, Zanahoria. I have already referred to the
carrot as a vegetable grown in cold frames, etc., for early

market. See Chapter on " Cold Frames."
As a market vegetable, carrots are tied
up in bunches, in same fashion as early Danvers.

beets, bunch onions, etc., and generally prove profitable. When
grown as an early outdoor crop for market or family use, seed
is sown as soon in spring as the ground is in proper working
order, in rows 12 to 15 inches apart, and the plants thinned to
2 or 3 inches apart in the rows. The ground need not be as
heavily manured as required for most other garden crops ; but
early attention must be given, for the plants have a small begin-
ning, and start somewhat feebly, and if neglected are liable to
get crowded out by weeds or lost among them. Keep the
wheel-hoe going from the very first, and pull up every weed.

Except in the limited way of bunch carrots, the vegetable is
more of a farm than a garden crop. Carrots, although good
culinary material in the hands of skilled cooks, are not used so

Cultural Directions. — 171

extensively for a kitchen vegetable here as they are in Europe ;
but we are learning to appreciate them more and more as a root
crop for stock, especially for horses and milch cows. In many
places, especially near larger cities, carrots for stock feeding arc
one of the best paying farm garden crops, being in ready demand
at $1.00 to $1.50 per barrel; and since 300 barrels and upwards
can be produced per acre with good culture, the reader may draw
his own conclusions concerning the profits.

The crop can be grown as a second one after spinach,
radishes, early beets, and even strawberries, early cabbages, etc.,
without further manuring. One of the best selections of soil

CHAN

on the farm is a piece of good, strong, well-drained, clean clover
sod, manured with twenty-five or thirty tons of compost or 1000 to
1500 pounds of fertilizer, or a ton or two of wood ashes per
acre. The cultivation which carrots require will also fit such
land admirably for a succeeding crop of onions, or vegetables
of that class. The ground should be deeply worked and
thoroughly prepared. For home feeding I prefer the White
Belgian. For market sale the Long and Half Long Orange
sorts must be grown. Mix a few radish seeds with the carrot
seed, and sow in drills 18 to 24 inches apart, using about six
pounds of seed per acre. The radishes come up quickly,

172 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

and the wheel-hoe or cultivator should at once be brought in
use. When the radishes are of fair eating size, they have
fulfilled their mission, and may be used, or thrown away.
Again let me emphasize the necessity of timely weeding and
early thinning. Weeding on weedy soil will require a great deal
of labor ; hence weedy soil and weedy manure should be care-
fully avoided. The large late varieties need three, and on rich
soil perhaps even four inches space in the row to each plant.
After once having taken a good start they grow fast, and do
not need so very much attention. Gather the crop before
severe freezing. This is best done by running a one-horse plow
close to each row on one side, thus almost laying the roots
bare on that side, and then prying them out with a spade, or
simply pulling them up by hand. Top, and store in same way
as described for mangel wurzels. The roots should be perfectly
dry when put away, or when packed for sale.

VARIETIES.

Early Scarlet Horn. — This is most generally used for
forcing for early market. Deep orange with small tops, and of
good quality. Adapted for shallow soils.

Oxheart. — An intermediate between the Early Horn and
Half Long varieties. In quality it is extra good, and will prove

profitable in both the
home and market
garden. Where other
sorts require dig-
ging, Oxheart can
be pulled.

Early Half Long
Scarlet. — A stump-
rooted sort, well
adapted for shallow
soils, and good for
table use.

New Chantenay
is an improvement on
the Half- Long Scar-
let, of same general
characteristics, and
rich orange color.
Danvers. — A Half Long variety of large size, is deservedly
popular for general uses — a sort of all-purpose carrot. I have
grown it for years and still consider it one of the best. It gives
greatest bulk with smallest length of root of any of the orange
sorts. Roots handsome, smooth, easily gathered, and of rich
dark orange color.

Cultural Directions. — 173

Long Orange, Improved Long Orange, is another good
sort for general purposes, and especially adapted to deep soils.
Very productive; roots smooth and
handsome.

Saint Vallery. — Very straight roots,
broad at the top. Of superior quality for
table use. Of deep orange color.

White Belgian. — In this we have a
somewhat coarse, but excellent variety for
stock, attaining largest size, and for this
reason the most productive of all sorts.
Grows partly above ground and can be
gathered by hand.

Yellow Belgian, another fine variety
for stock, resembles the White Belgian,
but is perhaps richer, and less productive.

White Vosges is introduced as an
enormously productive field carrot,
adapted for shallow soils. Can be pulled
up without the use of tools. Not recommended for the table.

CATNIP.

Nepeta cataria. German, Katzminze ; French, Menthe de
Chat. This perennial weed is quite common here, and more
generally considered a nuisance than fit for cultivation. The
leaves and young shoots are sometimes used for seasoning, and
the plant has valuable medical properties. It is also appre-
ciated as a honey-bearing plant, and cultivated on that account.
It grows easily from seed sown in drills 1 8 or 20 inches apart, in
almost any soil, and will need little or no attention.

CAULIFLOWER.

Brassica Oleracea (Botrytis). German, Blumenkohl ; French,
Chou-fleur ; Spanish, Coliflor. High culture, deep, rich, moist
soil plentifully provided with humus, and cool atmosphere, are
the chief requisites for best success with this crop. Nice heads
cannot be grown in hot, dry weather and soil ; hence gardeners
always aim to have the plants head up either in early summer
or in late autumn. For early crop the plants are wintered over
in cold frames, or grown in greenhouses or hot-beds during the
winter, in the same way as already described for early cabbages ;
but being less hardy, they need more protection, by mats,
shutters, etc.

Good cauliflowers always find ready sale at paying prices,
$15.00 to $25.00 per one hundred not being an unusual figure;
and for this reason it would be very unwise to attempt econo-

174 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

mizing in the manure account. Fifty tons or more of good
stable compost per acre, besides liberal dressings of fertilizers,
wood ashes, nitrate of soda, etc., are no more than can be applied
with profit. Plow deeply and pulverize the ground thoroughly.
In early spring, as soon as the ground is ready (March or April,
earlier at the south) the plants are set 30 by 1 5 or 1 8 inches apart,
and cultivated and hoed frequently. This is the crop of all crops
with which irrigation, by any of the natural methods, if it can be
adopted without unreasonable expense, will pay. A plentiful
supply of moisture, either by such means, or in consequence of
frequent rains during the time of heading, insures a good crop.

When the heads
begin to form, be
sure to clear out
the worms that may
be on the plants, by
the prompt use of
buhach, tar water,
or thymo-cresol,
and then gather
up some of the
large leaves over
the head, and tie
loosely to exclude
the direct sun rays.
__ This treatment

Prize Earliest. k,eePS th,f. headj

clean, white and

delicate. For late crop, seed is sown in May or June, the plants
set out at same time as late cabbages, 3 by 2 or 3 feet apart,
according to variety. Same general treatment as for cabbages is
required, but soil should be richer.

VARIETIES.

Until now seed of all sorts had to be imported from abroad,
very little being grown near the Atlantic coast. An effort is
now being made to grow it on the Pacific coast, and it seems with
entire success. The American- grown seed is remarkably large
and plump, and gives strong plants. The heads I had from such
seed were not inferior to any from foreign seed. I have no doubt
that American seedsmen will soon offer only the home-grown,
especially since this promises to be the cheaper of the two. The
best foreign seed has always been excessively high-priced.

Early Snowball, now recognized as the leading sort for
early use, probably is good for late also. A very reliable
header.

Cultural Directions. — 175

Prize Earliest has recently been introduced as earlier even
than Snowball or Early Erfurt ; desirable alike for forcing and
open-air culture.

Earliest Dwarf Erfurt. — One of the old stand-bys, and a
sure header.

(Extra) Early Paris. — Popular for forcing.

Autumn Giant, Veitch's Autumn Giant. — A large, late,
vigorous growing sort, with large firm heads, well covered by the
inner leaves.

CELERY.

Apium Graveolens. German, Sellerie ; French, Celeri ;
Spanish, Apio. — Celery fits so admirably into the crop rotation
of market as well as home gardens, that it has become indispens-
able in both. It affords an opportunity, after early crops are
taken off, to make profitable use of the ground from mid-
season until winter, and brings money to the market grower, and
a daily relish of unsurpassed deliciousness for fall and winter to
the home gardener. The newer methods and newer varieties have
now greatly simplified its culture, and rendered quite easy what
formerly was an awkward and laborious task.

GROWING THE PLANTS. — A supply of good plants is the very
foundation — an indispensable requisite of success. It is true,
plants are freely advertised for sale by good growers at very
reasonable rates ; but my experience with such plants, after they
have been packed for shipment, and gone through the hands of
express companies, is far from satisfactory. I find that they come
pretty high in the end, and often they cost more than the crop
is worth after it is grown. The average quality of celery plants
sold by growers, in my estimation, is rather poor. I grow
annually a few thousand plants above what I need for my own
use, and usually sell the surplus. After the best plants are picked
out for planting, I consider those I sell of no more than fairly
passable quality ; yet the buyers hardly ever failed to compli-
ment me upon the fine plants that I furnished them. This shows
that they are not accustomed to buy really first-class plants, and
for this reason I am sure that the wisest, in fact the only safe,
course for celery growers is to raise their own plants. If my
instructions are followed to the letter, it is a comparatively easy
thing to do.

In early spring prepare a rich, but clean, moist, and some-
what protected patch of ground. Put on plenty of fine compost,
which should be free from weed seeds ; and fork, spade or plow
it into the soil. A top-dressing of composted poultry manure
(wood-ashes, fertilizer, or whatever is on hand and thought of
benefit to the land) may then be applied and mixed with the

176 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

surface soil, using harrow or steel rake. In short make an
extremely rich and perfectly mellow seed-bed. Now mark out
shallow drills one foot apart, and in these sow the seed, at the
rate of one ounce to about 200 feet of row, firming it afterwards
thoroughly with the feet. Next smooth the surface by drawing
the back of rake lengthwise over each row, or, holding the rake
perpendicularly, handle upwards, pat the ground by pressing or
striking the teeth flat and firmly upon the row. Rolling, although
not strictly necessary, is, however, a good precaution. A small
patch may be kept supplied with moisture by occasional water-
ing, by covering with a slatted screen, providing half-shade, or
by spreading a piece of cloth directly upon the soil until the
seeds have germinated. Water, when required, may in the latter
case be given upon the cloth, and soaking through it will provide
the soil with moisture. The cloth must be removed as soon as
the plants begin to show themselves above ground.

My own practice differs from this in so far as I grow the
plants in my regular vegetable patch. The ground is prepared
in the usual way and as required for sowing onions, radishes,
lettuce, and similar crops ; marked out with the common garden
marker and in same distance as for the other crops. I walk upon
the rows to firm the seed, and otherwise treat as above described ;
but without shading and rarely watering. The wheel-hoe is
promptly and persistently brought into use, and the ground kept
loose and free from weeds from the very start. Early thinning
is of the utmost importance, and I refer the reader to what is
said on this subject in the chapter on " Transplanting and
Thinning." Give the plants room enough if you want them to
grow large, stocky, and to make strong roots. Narrow the row
down with the blades of the wheel-hoe, or slash into them with
a hand weeder, until not more than 40 or 50 plants are left
standing to the running foot. An occasional light top-dressing
of nitrate of soda (in its absence perhaps of saltpetre, preferably
in solution) will do wonders in giving you rapid growth of the plants.
Once or twice the tops may be cut back with a sharp sickle
or knife, to induce still increased stockiness, and by the time the
plants are wanted for setting out, you will have a stock that for
its excellence must astonish people accustomed only to see and
handle the average plants of the professional plant grower. I
have not yet seen a place so far back that a few thousand good
celery plants could not find ready sale amongst neighbors and
towns-people at 50 cents per 100, or $4 per 1,000. I can grow
them profitably even at a lower figure.

Southern people who need their plants so much later,
namely, in September or October, generally depend on northern-
grown plants. To supply this demand the seed should be
sown toward the end of May. A somewhat shady, moist piece

Cultural Directions. — 177

of land will be best, and shading may be required in most cases.
But it seems to me that southern people, if they take these same
precautions in the selection and treatment of a patch, could grow
their own supply of plants without much difficulty.

In the foregoing I have given you one of the " secrets " in
horticulture that are of money value to those who make a
proper use of it. The knowledge of " how to grow celery
plants " brings me at least a little money every season.

PLANTING. — Now we have the plants, and good ones, too.
The next thing is to set them so they will make a good crop.
The soil selected is usually such as is cleared from an early crop,
or, in the home garden, any available spot in composition between
sand and clay. If the first crop, as is very likely the case, was
well supplied with feed in the shape of compost, there will be
enough left of it to carry the celery crop through all right. In
practice, I prefer to apply additional manures or fertilizers even
then, and I do this in various ways, according to the particular
circumstances of the case. To plant a patch, even if not larger
than for a few hundred plants, furrows are opened with a one-
horse plow, going twice in same furrow to get the desired depth.
These furrows are made three feet apart for the self-bleaching
sorts, and somewhat more (from 4 to 5 feet) for the common
sorts that have to be bleached by " banking " or earthing-up.
They are partly filled with fine, thoroughly-rotted compost — '
preferably of cow manure — , fine barn-yard scrapings, etc., and
some soil mixed all through it. More soil is then filled in, and
the rows made nearly level with the surface.

If only a single row of celery, and a short one at that, is to
be planted, as sometimes happens when a small strip of the vege-
table garden becomes available, I merely apply the compost
along the row to the width of about a foot, and fork or spade
this nicely in. A little fertilizer or wood-ashes is scattered on
top, and the soil raked smooth and even. After the ground has
been prepared by either method, the garden line is tightly
stretched along the row, and the plants set six inches apart.

At the north our usual time of setting celery plants is early
in July, and for winter use up to August. Gardeners in the
middle and southern states plant correspondingly later. The
plants should be lifted from the seed row when the ground is wet,
or at least moist. In a dry spell I always give the plant rows a
thorough soaking an hour or two previous to pulling plants. The
ground where plants are to be set should also be moist. Let me
again call attention to the general rule (which especially is not
to be disregarded during a dry time) : Always sow and plant in
freshly-stirred soil ; then firm thoroughly. The plants after being
pulled are properly trimmed or clipped at both ends, the roots
dipped in water and planted with a dibber, which is also used to

178 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

press the soil firmly against the roots, so that a leaf would tear
off quicker than allow the plant to be pulled up by it To apply
a half pint of water to each plant after setting is a good
precaution.

AFTER-CULTURE. — The ground must be kept clean and
mellow, and the plants in growing condition by the frequent use
of wheel-hoe, horse-hoe, steel-rake, and hoe. Next comes what
is called " handling." When the plants have made a good
growth, and the nights begin to get cool, late in August, the
ground near the plants receives a thorough loosening, either by
plowing a shallow furrow towards the row from each side, or by
drawing soil up to it with the hoe. The gardener now gets
down on his knees, straddling the row, and gathering up all the
stalks of one plant after another in his left hand, packs the soil
firmly around with his right, to retain them in this compact
and erect position. More soil is then drawn up, or hoed up, to
them.

» Celery after Earthing-up.

BLANCHING. — No further treatment is necessary for the self-
blanching sorts to blanch them for market ; yet we can greatly
improve their flavor by earthing them up like the common
varieties. Various methods are employed to blanch the crop.
The one, though old, but yet commonly used, is by earthing
up or " banking." This had best be done gradually, in two or
three operations. Soil is dug up from between the rows, and
banked up against the plants from each side, at the last
operation almost to the tips of the leaves, as shown in above
illustration.

Blanching by means of boards is coming more and more
into favor with market gardeners, and well deserves recommenda-
tion. The plants are first " handled " in the usual way, and
boards 10 inches wide are then set on edge against the rows
from each side, as illustrated on next page, and held in that
position by tying a string around each set of two at each end, by
pegs driven into the ground, by clamps, or in any other con-
venient way.

Cultural Directions. — 179

Common drain tile, 4 or 5 inches in the clear, are some-
times used and recommended for bleaching celery; but this
method does not always give satisfaction. I have thought to
improve on it, and had some " bleachers " made, 5 or 6 inches
high, with 5 inches inside diameter, in shape like bottomless
flower-pots. These are placed over the plants, one only for each
plant of the self-blanching kinds, and two, or even three — one
above the other — for each plant of the common sorts. This

Blanching by Boards.

method in its different phases is illustrated on next page.
I have had good success with it, and grown some fine blanched
celery ; but it seems to me that the expense connected with the
purchase and breakage of the pots, and the labor required for
storing and taking to and off the field, must prevent the more
extensive or general use of this method.

Early in the season, and while the plants are yet growing
rapidly, celery bleaches beautifully in from 2 to 3 weeks after
banking or boarding up, and is then in first-class condition for
use or market. Later it will take 4 or 5 weeks, perhaps even
more, to bring the plants out in marketable shape.

PREPARING FOR MARKET. — When the crop is ready for
market, draw the soil away from the plants desired, take hold of
the top with one hand and pull, at same time prying under the
root with a spade. Thus one plant after another is easily lifted
out without breaking a stalk. Shake the soil off the roots, and
take the plants to the vegetable house, to be properly prepared
for sale. Trim the main root smoothly with three or four
sloping cuts ; remove the coarse outer leaves, and on one side
open the stalks sufficiently to expose the heart in its tempting
whiteness. From three to five, or even six of such plants,
according to size, are then tied in a neat flat bunch, the exposed
hearts all showing on one of the flat sides. The price depends
very much on the tempting appearance of the bunches, on neat
trimming and skillful tying. Such a bunch, properly put up is
shown on page 181. Of course the plants when dug should be

i8o — How to Make the Garden Pay.

guarded from freezing; and in cold weather the boxes in which
the crop is taken to market, must be provided or lined with
matting, coarse cloth, etc.

When speaking of cold frame management, I have already
alluded to celery as a crop grown for early marketing as " soup
celery," in same way as parsley is handled. During fall and
winter, the better outer leaves of the regular crop, and the plants
too small for market otherwise, are bunched and sold for soup
celery in the same manner. The thinnings from the seed-bed,
as well as tops shorn off to induce stockiness, are often similarly
utilized during summer.

STORING FOR MARKET. — Celery intended for winter use or
winter market only requires handling, but no earthing up, since
it blanches perfectly, and with no extra labor, in winter store.
Necessary precautions that must be observed are to lift the plant

Celery Bleachers.

on dry days only, and never touch a frozen plant. If these rules
are violated, speedy decay will usually follow. The method of
winter storage in general use in the market gardens of New
Jersey and vicinity is as follows :

On a well-drained spot a trench is dug as narrow as possible,
and deep enough that the tops of the plants standing in it will just
about reach to the level of the surface. The crop is then taken up,
the soil shaken off, and the plants placed perpendicularly, and
as closely crowded together as possible in the bottom of the
trench. Here they are left until there is danger of severe freez-
ing. Light frosts will do no hurt. The plants thus trenched in
early (middle or end of October) may be used directly from the
trenches, as wanted, during December. Except at the extreme
north, no covering will be needed for them until this time. Roots
trenched in during November, which will not be ready for use

Cultural Directions. — 181

before January, need protection. During forepart of December
boards a foot wide are laid in single line directly upon the trench,
resting with an inch or two on the sides, and in the centre per-
haps directly upon the foliage. When a cold night is expected
a few inches of soil are drawn or shovelled upon the boards and
allowed to freeze. Afterwards (early in the morning) litter of
some sort is put over this crust to keep the, frost in ; and this
covering, during severe weather, must be increased to perhaps a
foot in thickness.

Celery kept in such trenches generally comes out beautifully
bleached, crisp and tender. The chief point is thorough drainage^
for if water is allowed
to stand in the trench,
celery is sure to rot.
The trench method is
probably the best, sim-
plest and safest for a
mild climate like that
of New Jersey ; but in
colder localities I would
give a genuine root
cellar the preference.
This gives us easy
access to the crop at
any time when wanted,
and when it would not
be safe to open a trench
or expose the plants
even for the shortest
period outdoors. A
dug-out in a hill-side,
covered over with a
substantial roofing of
rails, poles, litter and a
foot of soil, will answer
quite well. Celery
houses similarly con-
structed on the level are used quite extensively by the large
growers near Rochester, N. Y., and elsewhere.

Mr. Theo. F. Baker, of South Jersey makes use of a struc-
ture of this kind, and says it proves a great convenience, keeping
the celery in perfect condition almost any length of time, and
saving him a large amount of labor. The stock can be inspected
at any time, taken out in cold and rainy weather, or at night, at
pleasure, cleaned, washed and packed all under the same roof.
Celery once handled can there be bleached in three weeks, and
be free from rust or earthy flavor.

Bunch of Celery ready for Market.

182 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

The cellar is 40 feet long, 16 feet wide, and 3 feet deep.
The walls> which are 18 inches thick, rise I foot above ground.
The rafters reach clear to the ground, where they rest on plates
placed there to keep the roof from spreading. The ends are
weather-boarded on both sides of six-inch studs, and filled in
with sawdust. The roof is also double with a sawdust filling. A
number of partitions well-lined with paper, and forming two or
three, perhaps even four dead-air spaces of two inches each in
width, would probably be still more effective and convenient.
The height of the house inside is 4 feet at the eaves, and n at
the peak. A ventilator at the peak admits air when needed, and
gives a chance for the escape of heat that may be generated
by the mass of celery. A door at each end, a small window
over each to admit light, and steps to get down, complete the
house.

" In storing the celery," writes Mr. Baker, " posts are set in
the ground about 16 inches apart, beginning at each side on one
end of the house, and coming toward the centre, giving seven
posts or alleys to a side, and leaving a passage-way two feet wide
the entire length of the building. Three sets of posts on one
side of the passage-way, and four on the other will suit 16 feet
boards, two and a half lengths on one side, and two lengths on the
other. This leaves a space 8 feet square for washing tank, and
room to prepare the stuff for market/'

" Beginning next to the wall, we nail a board a foot wide to
the post, so that the top of the celery will be even with the top
of the board, leaving a space of four to six inches between the
bottom of the board and the ground, through which one hand
can be thrust to pack the roots firmly while the other holds the
tops of the celery over the board. Some loose rich soil is thrown
over the roots after the box or trench is filled from end to end.
With a hose from the hydrant the soil is given a thorough
wetting, and settled around the roots, causing them to throw out
new fibres in a few days, when a new growth of the heart
commences. Considerable heat will at first be generated by the
mass of celery thus stored, and proper ventilation must be given,
else rot will surely follow. After the one heating we have no
further trouble from this cause."

STORING FOR HOME USE. — A few hundred plants may be
stored in a common cellar, standing them upright on a couple of
inches of moist soil or sand upon the floor, and dividing them in
narrow sections between upright boards, in a similar way as
described for celery-house storage. Instead of placing directly
upon the cellar bottom, we can make use of narrow boxes (shoe
boxes, for instance) putting in a little moist soil or sand, and
standing the plants upon this. An improvement on this plan is,
to bore inch holes at the ends and sides of the box, four inches

Cultural Directions. — 183

from the bottom, and in packing the plants cover their roots with
sand or soil. Keep this moist by watering occasionally through
the holes near the bottom.

Unquestionably the simplest, and I find quite a safe method
of storing a supply for home use is by packing the plants, already
trimmed, almost as closely as for market, in boxes between layers
of moist moss, and keeping the latter moist by occasional

A Southern Celery Bed.

sprinkling. This plan permits of packing celery in the smallest
possible space for keeping, and it does keep well even until spring.
As a further precaution, however, I would advise to moisten the
moss before packing with a weak solution of salicylic acid (a
teaspoonful dissolved in a gallon of hot water).

Whatever method of storage is adopted, attention must be
paid to two points, namely, to keep the foliage dry, to prevent
rotting, and the soil moist, to prevent wilting.

A SOUTHERN WAY OF GROWING CELERY. — The method which
I found in general use from Maryland south, is almost entirely
unknown to the northern cultivator; yet its many decided ad-

Southern Method of Handling and Banking Celery.

vantages strongly recommend its adoption, at least for trial, in
every northern kitchen garden. I is especially suited for
growing the self-blanching sorts.

The ground is laid off in beds 5 or 6 feet wide, with alleys
of the same width between them. These beds are usually lowered
3 or 4 inches by shovelling the soil off the surface and throwing
it in the alleys.

184 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

An outline of such bed is shown on the preceding page.
Fine compost is then applied to the depth of several inches, and
spaded or forked into the soil, after which the plants are set in
rows one foot wide across the bed, and 6 inches apart in the
rows. This is crowding the plants so closely together that they
will grow pretty nearly upright without handling. They will

need hoeing once or twice,
and in a dry time can easily be
watered, or provided with half
shade, since the area is so
ridiculously small for the num-
ber of plants. For convenience
in earthing-up, two boards each
10 inches wide, and 7 or 8 feet
long, with ends tapering for a
handle, are set up on edge
between two rows of plants,
one to each side, as shown to
the right of illustration. Pegs
driven into the ground on the

outside at each end hold the boards
in position. The space between
them is then filled up with soil
from the alleys. This work — and
earthing-up celery generally — can
be done to best advantage by two
men, one standing at each side of
the bed. When the space is shov-
elled level full, each man grasps
the boards by the handles on his
side and presses the upper ends
together with a few smart raps,
then proceeds to take the boards
out, and to insert them in the next
row. Thus the soil is left in a sort
of ridge between each two rows of

plants, and the handling is done afterwards by hand in the usual
manner. The boards are then again brought into use in same
way, and the process of earthing-up continued as needed. For
winter protection the whole bed is covered up with a thick
and well-rounded layer of earth, and further protected with

Crawford's Half-Dwarf.

Cultural Directions. — 185

leaves or litter of some sort. Northern growers who wish to
adopt this method, may have to vary it in some respects to
suit the circumstances.

VARIETIES.

There is more difference in quality between different lots of the
same variety when grown under different conditions and differently
managed, than there is between different
varieties grown exactly alike and at the
same time. As I grow it year after
year, forcing rapid succulent growth
by the free use of nitrogenous fertil-
izers, especially of composted hen
manure and nitrate of soda (concen-
trated fertilizers alone will not do for
me), I nave celery in perfection — white
as snow or yellow as gold, brittle as
glass, and sweet as a nut. But it is
always at its best when freshly dug

Golden Heart.

from the bed, in late
fall or winter. The
early stuff brought to

Golden Se1f-Blanchmg.

September, whether home-grown or from Kalamazoo, is not to
my taste. The self-bleaching celeries need higher culture than
the common sorts, otherwise they iire liable to be more dwarf
than desirable. Their flavor is improved by earthing-up same as
other celeries, but they can be made fit for the table by mere

186 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

"handling," hence are sometimes, and justly so, called "the busy
(or lazy) man's celery." The red or pink celeries are charac-
terized not only by greater vigor of growth than the other
classes, but also by very superior flavor, hence deserve to be
much more largely grown than they actually are.

The tall sorts formerly grown for market to the exclusion
of all others, are now almost gone out of cultivation, and the

dwarf sorts have taken their places —
very deservedly so, too.

White Plume. — The general favor-
ite among the self-blanching varieties,
and especially valuable for early use,
both as a table sort and for market.
It is quite dwarf, but compact, and
decidedly attractive. No grower for any

Fern-Leaved.

purpose should neglect to make the acquaintance of White Plume.

Golden Self- Blanching, of beautiful golden color, but of
too dwarfish habit of growth except under highest culture.

Crawford's Half-Dwarf, Henderson's Half-Dwarf, until
recently the most popular sort among market gardeners ; yellowish
white when blanched, of compact habit of growth, and fine
quality; very solid.

Giant Pascal. — This variety is an offspring of the Golden
Self Blanching, most carefully selected. It partakes of its nutty
flavor, and has no bitter taste at all. The stalks are very large,
solid, and not stringy, in fact it is the largest celery yet known as
to width of stalks. It blanches very easily.

Cultural Directions. — 187

Golden Heart is constantly gaining in popularity, both as a
market variety and for the family garden, and well deserves it.
Of beautiful golden color when bleached, and fully the equal of
Crawford's Half- Dwarf in every other respect. Can be planted
with entire confidence. Kalamazoo is probably identical with
Golden Heart.

Large White Solid. — Popular among growers who plant
the taller kinds.

Boston Market. — A somewhat branching or suckering sort
of rich, nutty flavor. Very popular among the gardeners near
Boston. Stalks solid.

Dwarf Large Ribbed. — Very solid, of crisp nutty flavor ;
pearly white and an extra good keeper. Largely grown in the
Kalamazoo celery districts.

Fern-Leaved, Bouquet. — Very attractive during growth on
account of finely-serrated leaves ; apparently a strong grower.

New Rose. — Beautiful; vigorous in growth; superior in
flavor. Decidedly desirable for the home garden.

CELERIAC OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY.

Apium Graveoleus ; German, Knollen Sellerie ; French,
Celeri Rave; Spanish, Apio nabo. — Celeriac is merely a
variety of the common celery with abnormal root
development, and like others, requires good, rich,
mellow soil. It is sown in seed-bed in early spring,
and planted out in rows 18
inches apart and 6 inches
apart in the rows. Keep free
from weeds and well culti-
vated, neither handling nor
earthing-up being required.
The tuberous root is the part
used, especially for flavoring Celeriac.
soups, etc. Boiled, sliced, and
served with oil and vinegar, etc., it forms the celebrated dish
known as " Celery Salad." Of the various varieties the newer
Apple- Shaped deserves to be mentioned as one of the best.

CH ERVI L— TURN IP-ROOTED.

Chcerophyllum bulb o sum. German, Kerb el ; French, Cerfeuil
Tubereux ; Spanish, Perifollo.

The root of this hardy vegetable resembles a short carrot
or parsnip; somewhat smaller, of dark gray color, and with
yellowish white flesh, which is sweet and mealy, reminding of sweet
potato. Chervil, if fresh seed is sown, either in autumn or early
spring, is of easy culture, being managed and used in same way

Chervil.

Collard.

188 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

as parsnips. It succeeds everywhere, and is improved by frost.
The stalks grow tall and vigorous, and die down early in the
season, indicating that the tubers have reached maturity.

CHICORY.

Cichorium Intybus ; German, Cichorie ; French, Chicoree ;
Spanish, Achicoria. — Chicory is generally known as a substitute
for coffee. For this
purpose the root is
roasted and ground.
The vegetable is
easily grown, some-
what like carrots.
Seed should be sown
in spring, in drills a
foot apart, and plants
thinned to about 4
inches distance in the
drills. The leaves are
sometimes blanched

and used as salad.
Chicory. The blanching is

done in the cellar. The plants should be taken up at the begin-
ning of cold weather, the leaves cut off ^-inch or so above the
root crown, and placed horizontally in layers, alternating with
layers of sand or soil, the root crowns all pointing outward of
the sloping heaps, to give them a chance for free growth. If the
soil is rather dry, a slight watering may be given. In a few
weeks, if the temperature of the cellar is high enough, the
leaves will have made considerable growth, and may be used.

* CHIVES.

Allium Schoenoprasum ; German, Schnittlauch ; French
Civette ; Spanish , Cibellino.

A plant of the onion family, growing in large tufts, perfectly
hardy, and requiring no attention after being once planted.
Bulbs, oval and small, forming a compact mass. Leaves numer-
ous and slender, and generally used in the raw state as a relish,
with bread and butter, etc. Propagated by division of the root.
Planted in permanent border, 6 or 8 inches apart.

COLLARD OR COLEWORT.

Brassica Oleracea. Nothing more nor less than common
cabbage used while young. It seems to me that one might
be satisfied with the good American name " cabbage greens,"
and as such they are known and used quite commonly in the

Cultural Directions. — 189

southern states. Cabbage seed is sown thickly in rows a foot
apart, cultivated as if grown for plants, and cut and used when
about 8 inches high. English gardeners cultivate a distinct
variety under the name of ' 'Green Rosette Colewort " or Gollard.

CORIANDER.

Coriandrum Sativum. German, Coriander ; French, Cori-
andre ; Spanish, Culantro. — An annual herb of easy culture, with
branching stems, grown for its aromatic seed. It likes light and
warm soils. Sow seed in spring, in rows a foot apart, and keep
free from weeds.

CORN SALAD OR FETTICUS.

Valerianella Olitoria. German, Acker Salat, Lammersalat ;
French, Mache ; Spanish, Canonigos. — This hardy plant is much
grown and used for salads, and freely offered
in large city markets. For summer use, sow
early in spring, in rows one foot apart, and
keep the ground well cultivated and free from
weeds. For early spring use, seed is sown in
September, and same treatment and protection
given as for spinach. Several varieties are
quoted in English catalogues, of which Corn Salad.
Large Round-Leaved is as good as any.

CORN.

Sweet Corn. Zca Mays. German, Mais; French, Mais
Sucre ; Spanish, Mais. — Sweet corn for market is emphatically a
farm garden crop, but rarely grown in the market garden, since the
area required for its culture is by far too large to fit into the market
gardener's limited space. On the other hand, really good sweet
corn furnishes such a delicious and wholesome dish, one that
graces our table, and gratifies our palates for several months
every year, that a large part of the kitchen garden (if it be a large
one) may be profitably devoted to this crop. In that case it
should be our aim to have an unbroken succession all during the
season ; and we can easily have it by planting the early, inter-
mediate, and late kinds at one time, and then continue to plant
a patch of the latest every two weeks until middle of July.
Farmers, who usually have but a small garden (certainly much
smaller generally than they ought to have), had better plant it
with garden crops requiring less room, and devote a quarter or
half acre of the regular cornfield to the production of sweet corn
for the table. I know there is considerable prejudice in the minds
of most people against the free use of " green " corn. I consider

igo — How to Make the Garden Pay.

it decidedly wholesome, almost in the light of a natural and
needed medicine, and consequently we indulge in it to the fullest
limit of our natural appetites, without ever experiencing the ill
effects so dreaded by the masses.

As a farm or farm garden crop, I place it far ahead in
profitableness to common field corn or potatoes. There are few
localities in which a reasonable quantity of good boiling ears
could not find ready sale at 75 cents or $1 per hundred. Where
grown for canning or evaporating, of course, the ruling price has
to be accepted. I find that I can plant sweet corn closer, and
grow at least one-half as many more ears to the acre than I can
of field corn, and this even with less labor and risk, and with no
greater amount of manure. Consequently the grower easily
realizes two or three times the profits on sweet corn that he
would on the other.

Sometimes I have wondered why farmers living in a locality
where there is a steady and sure annual demand for " roasting "
ears at the prices mentioned, go on planting their whole available
ground with field corn, which they have to sell at 25 cents per
bushel ears, or 50 cents shelled, while so much better opportunities
are offered to them in the cultivation of sweet corn.

SOIL AND CULTURE. — Corn delights in warm, well-drained
soil ; and none is better for it than a rich clover sod. The plant
is a quick grower and a powerful eater, and not in the least
particular as to the kind of food. Anything in the shape of
plant food comes acceptable, even fresh, coarse stable manure.
Good crops can be grown in thin soils, if dressed broadcast with
from 400 to 800 Ibs. of some high grade complete fertilizer per
acre, harrowed or plowed in. Sometimes we may plant corn on
unmanured land, in the supposition that it is rich enough for
the crop ; only to find out our mistake afterwards, by seeing the
plants at almost a complete stand-still. Even at this late period
the matter can be easily remedied in most cases, and a fair crop
obtained, by applying a few hundred pounds of the fertilizer per
acre as a top-dressing between the rows.

Planting in hills for the purpose of cultivating both ways
may be admissible on rough, stony, or gravelly farm land, and
for farm crops ; but we want none of it in the garden, provided
it is such as it should be — long and narrow in shape, and of
clean, well-tilled soil. The drill method with corn, and most
other crops, gives us an increased yield at no increase of labor ;
for with skillful management of the narrow-toothed cultivator or
wheel-hoe, going twice (back and forth) between each two rows,
each time close to the one at the right, the entire surface of a
reasonably level and smooth piece of land can be so thoroughly
and effectively stirred, that the field will appear as if it had been
harrowed all over. While the plants are yet young, in good

Cultural Directions. — 191

192 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

mellow soil, there will be absolutely nothing left to be done with
the hand hoe, nor will there be, or at least only very little, later
on, if skillful cultivator work is persistently and timely done.

The early dwarf sorts may be planted in drills 2^/2 or 3 feet
apart, one stalk every 6 or 8 inches, or two to three plants every
12 to 1 8 inches; the intermediate varieties need a little more
space; and the late tall sorts should have the rows 3^ or 4 feet
apart, one stalk every 8 or 10 inches, or two to three stalks every
1 8 inches. The ears are of best table quality when freshly
broken off the plants, and greatly lose in this respect by standing
about and becoming wilted.

VARIETIES.

Cory Sweet. — I have grown this fora number of years, and
consider it by far the best of the earlies, and the earliest of all
that are worth growing. Stalk remarkably dwarf, and ear
remarkably large for such a small sort. Easily grown and
always satisfactory. Tender and sweet.

Early Minnesota, Early Marblehead, and Crosby's
Extra Early, are early sorts with small ears, but largely grown
for earliest market and home use.

Mexican Sweet, Black Mexican, Blue Mexican. — A
second early sort with fair-sized ears. Kernels extremely sweet
and tender, and of a dark bluish purple when ripe. Good only
for the home garden.

Perry's Early, of vigorous growth, fair-sized ear, and good
quality.

Maule's XX Sugar. — Fit for the table in 9 to 10 weeks
from planting, and of a most delicious sweet and sugary flavor.
It is of comparatively dwarf habit, stalks seldom growing more
than 4 to 5 feet high. Remains long in an edible condition, and
matures in a comparatively short time for such a large-eared sort.

Everbearing. — Ears are of good size, and covered with
kernels clear to end of the cob. Ripening a few days after the
Amber Cream, each stalk will produce one to two, and at times
four to five, well-developed ears.

Amber Cream. — Medium early, of strong growth. Ears of
good size. Kernels amber colored when ripe. Held in high
esteem wherever grown.

Evergreen, Stowell's Evergreen. — This is probably the
most popular late variety, both for market and home use, of strong
vigorous growth, and with large tender ears, that remain in
condition for table use for a long time. Also much grown for
fodder purposes.

Egyptian, in all its valuable characteristics somewhat
similar to Evergreen. Ears very large, tender and sweet. Much
grown for canning purposes.

Cultural Directions. — 193

Gold Coin. — A recently-introduced variety, with as large
an ear as Evergreen, but maturing a few days earlier.

Mammoth Sugar is very late, and produces the largest ears
of any variety. Of good quality and superior for canning.
Remains long in the green state.

POP CORN.

VARIETIES.

Pop Corn is emphatically a crop for the children, and they
would hardly consider the garden complete without a row or two.
It is as easily grown as field corn, and while the ears are not very
large, their number, especially with somewhat close planting,
will go far to make up for lack of size.

White Rice is more generally grown than any other.
Ears quite large, a number' of them growing on one stalk.
Kernels sharply pointed. Superior for popping.

Queen's Golden Pop Corn.

Golden Pop, Queen's Golden Pop. Handsome, prolific
and reliable.

Marblehead Prolific. — This new variety is claimed to be
the m6st productive pop corn in cultivation. Ears are eight to
ten inches long, filled out to the end with bright handsome white
grains.

CRESS OR PEPPERGRASS.

Lepidium Sativum. German, Kresse ; French, Cresson ;
Spanish, Mastuerzo. No vegetable starts quicker from seed, or
is easier to grow if the flea beetle is kept off. The leaves have a
very pungent taste, and are much used as a salad, usually as a
condiment with lettuce and other salad materials. Sow seed
thickly in drills one foot apart, guard against flea beetle depreda-
tions while the plants are small, and cut as desired. The plants
run to seed quickly, and frequent successive sowings must be
made, if a constant supply is wanted.

Of the several varieties, the Curled or Normandy Garden
Cress and the Extra Curled Dwarf are generally grown in
America.

Water Cress. — Nasturtium officinale. German, Brunnen-
kresse ; French, Cresson de Fontaine ; Spanish, Berro. This
hardy perennial aquatic plant roots readily both in water, and wet

Water Cress.

Gather
spring.

194 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

or moist soil, and after once being introduced, will thrive in
almost any small stream of clear, cold water, ditch or pond,
without care or culture. On account of the pleasant pungency
and hygienic properties of the leaves, it is highly esteemed as a
table delicacy, and extensively grown for
market near all the larger cities. It makes
a superior salad, and fine material for garnish-
ing. To introduce it in any stream or body
of water, sow seed or a few cuttings or pieces
of root in the mud, along the margin, and it
will increase rapidly, often entirely overrunning
ditches and small brooks. Flooding is the
best winter protection,
and market in
It also grows
well on a moist green-
house bench, and on any
upland that can be kept
continuously moist.

Upland Cress, Amer-
ican Cress. — Barb are a
praecox; German, Amer-
ikanische Winter Kresse ;
French, Cresson de terrc.
— Native biennial of
Europe, resembling
Upland Cress. Water Cress in taste,

and used for seasoning and garnishing, 4 Easily grown from seed.
I have no high opinion of it, and do not recommend it

CUCUMBER.

Cucumis Sativus. German, Gurke ; French, Concombre ;
Spanish, Cohombro. Under heading of " Cold Forcing Houses "
(Chapter XIII) I have already alluded
to cucumbers as a profitable crop for
culture under glass. Otherwise the bulk
of cucumbers and pickles grown for
market is produced in the farm garden
rather than the market garden, simply
because the market gardener has not
sufficient space. Almost any kind of
well-drained soil will produce cucum-
bers, provided it is rich enough, or made
so. Young clover sod is good. The
selection of new ground — wide crop rotation — is always a good
precautionary measure, and liable to lessen the dangers from
insect and disease attacks.

Cultural Directions. — 195

Plow deep and thoroughly, and mellow the surface in the
usual manner. Then mark out the ground four feet apart, both
ways ; put a large shovelful of good compost in each intersec-
tion, and mix it thoroughly with the soil. When danger from

Peerless.

Chicago Pickle.

Tailby's Hybrid.

late frosts is past, plant into the hills thus made, using plenty of
seed to make allowance for injury by insects, etc., and when the
plants begin to run, thin to the best three or four in each hill.
From the time they begin to come up until several leaves are
made, they should be kept dusted with plaster or a poisoned
plaster mixture, as a preventive for insects. Occasional water-
ing with washing suds during dry weather is of great benefit
Keep the ground well cultivated and free from weeds. It is not
desirable to plant or hill up in great mounds, since cucumbers

Evergreen Cucumber.

need considerable moisture to do well. Gather the fruit regularly,
without leaving any specimens to ripen, or the vines will stop
bearing. For early market, and as a safeguard against insect
depredations, the plants may be started on inverted sods under

196 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

glass in same way as mentioned for Lima beans, and also prac-
tised with melons and squashes. This is done two or three
weeks before the usual period for outdoor planting.

The demand for pickles is largest in the fall, and the planting
for pickles is usually postponed until latter part of June or fore-
part of July.

VARIETIES.

Maule's Extra Early. — A cross between the Early Russian
and Green Prolific ; as early as the former, while it combines the

fine pickling qualities of
the latter.

Early Russian. — The
earliest variety. Fruit
small, growing in pairs,
and produced in great
number. Good for small
pickles.

Early Cluster, Green
Cluster,

Early Russian.

Green Prolific,

Early Frame,

Short Green,

"White Japan,

Jersey Pickle,

Chicago Pickle,
all these are intermediate sorts,
reliable for pickling purposes.

Peerless White Spine,

Evergreen,

Long White Spine,

Improved Long Green,
are popular varieties for table
use and large pickles.

Nichol's Medium Green,
recently introduced, is a good
all-purpose cucumber.

Tailby's Hybrid. — A
hybrid of White Spine with one of the large English Frame
varieties. Very large and solid, containing but few seeds. A
really fine and handsome sort, but not as prolific as I would
wish.

Nichols' Medium Green.

Cultural Directions.— 197

Snake Cucumber (C. Flexuosus). — More of a curiosity than
of practical usefulness. Several feet in length, and always
growing in a coil.

Giant Pera. — A newly
introduced sort of great length
and solidity, having but few
seeds.

Small Gherkin, Prickly
Gherkin, West India Gherkin,
Burr (C. Angurid). — A strong-
growing plant bearing its small,
prickly fruit in great abundance.
It is largely used for pickles.

Should be planted in hills not Snake Cucumber,

less than 5 feet apart each way, with two or three plants to the
hill.

DANDELION.

Leontodon Taraxacum. German, Lowenzahn ; French,
Dent-de-lion. — This common weed of our fields and meadows is
often gathered and prepared for <4 greens." Esteemed especially
for its hygienic properties. Careful selection of seed has resulted
in a number of improved varieties, which are cultivated in
European gardens, both for spring greens and salad.

Americans are only just beginning to introduce its cultiva-
tion into their gardens. I have a mammoth variety from Penn-
sylvania under trial.

The cultivation is simple. Sow seed in early spring in hills
one foot apart, and thin or transplant to from 10 to 12 inches.

Keep free from weeds. Leaves
may be cut for use in fall ; and
the plantation will continue to
yield during the spring of next
year. European gardeners often
improve the flavor of this vege-
table by blanching the leaves,

Dandelion. eit.her b/ covering the bed with

a layer of sand or by putting
a large flower pot, inverted, over each plant

DILL.

Anethumgraveolens. German, Dill ; French, Aneth ; Spanish,
Eneldo. — An annual herb of easiest culture, much used by
Germans as a condiment, or flavoring for pickled cucumbers,
beans, etc. Sow seed in spring or summer, in drills one foot

igB — How to Make the Garden Pay.

apart, and keep free from weeds. Where seed was left to ripen
plants will spring up in great abundance the season following
Little attention in the way of manuring or cultivation is required.

EGG PLANT.

Solanum melongena. German, Eierpflanze ; French, Auber-
gine ; Spanish, Berengena. — In the cultivation of the egg-plant
we have to face several serious difficulties, among them chiefly
its half tropical nature, which calls for the
display of especial skill in raising good plants,
and the great fondness of the potato bug for
this particular food.

GROWING THE PLANTS. — First of all we
need strong plants. To start the seed and
cause thrifty plant growth, a higher degree of
heat and that of longer duration is required
than for tomatoes or peppers. A good green-
house, with heat under full control, is a great
convenience in this emergency. The temper-
ature should not be allowed to fall below 70
degrees Fahr. during any of the stages of
development. Sow seed during March or
when plants are

about an inch high, prick them
out in pots or old tomato cans, in
good rich potting soil. Where no
warm greenhouse is at hand, a
fresh hot-bed will have to answer
for sowing seed; but the young
plants as soon as potted off should
be transferred to another, freshly-
made hot-bed. Better plants are
usually grown in tomato cans, or in
large boxes, than in ordinary flower
pots.

PLANTING AND CULTIVATION. —
Well-drained, warm, rich soil is an
indispensable condition of success
with this crop. Good compost, or
other good fertilizer, should not
be spared. When the ground
has become thoroughly warmed
through, and not before, set the plants 2 or 3 feet apart each way
— the latter distance in rich soil — and keep well cultivated and
free from weeds. Dusting the plants frequently with plaster,
especially if a little carbolic acid is mixed with it, has a decided

Long Purple,
early April, and

New York Purple.

Cultural Directions. — 199

tendency toward making bug visits less frequent; but where
these are very troublesome, applications of the Paris green mix-
tures will be necessary. For a number of years, while in New
Jersey, I have tried in vain to save a few plants from utter
destruction by bugs in early autumn. When the tops of the
late potatoes have died down (in August) it becomes a matter
of life and death to the hordes of hard-shell beetles to find a
little food. So they all at once pounce in full force upon the
egg-plants in the neighborhood, and will devour them even to
the stalks, in spite of all the applications we might make. In
such cases the only hope for success lies in extensive planting
and close watching. If any one can tell me a practical method
of protecting a few plants I shall be glad to hear.

VARIETIES.

New York Improved, New York Improved Purple. —
This is more generally grown for market than any other ; and on
account of its mammoth size, handsome shape and color, a great
favorite. A selection of this naturally very prickly sort, much
grown among New Jersey market gardeners, is entirely free from
spines.

Earliest Dwarf Purple. — Too small for market, otherwise
resembling the New York Improved, only considerably earlier,
and for this reason valuable for home gardens at the extreme
north. Here I have little use for it.

Early Long Purple. — Two or three times as long as it is
broad. Color varies somewhat. Not much grown for market,
but good for the home garden, as it is early and comparatively
of easy culture.

Black Pekin. — Almost round in shape, and very dark in
color. Quite early for so large a variety.

Japanese Varieties. — Of these I have two under test. They
appear to be much hardier and easier to grow than other egg-
plants, but fruit is small and only valuable for the home garden.

ENDIVE.

Cichorium Endivia. German, Endivien ; French, Chicoree
Endive ; Spanish, Endivia. — Endive, one of the best of fall and
winter salads, is not yet appreciated in America as is deserves.
Practically unknown in the average home garden, it is found only
in larger markets, and often there in but limited quantity. If my
readers will once try it, and bring it on the table well bleached,
crisp and tender, as a salad, in late fall or winter, I think they
will continue to grow it, thus adding to the luxuries of their
table.

200 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Its culture is simple ; its requirements as to manure and soil
are modest. For summer use sow seed in April or May ; for fall
and winter use in June, July, and early August. Have drills one
foot apart, and thin or transplant to same distance in the drill.

Hoe occasionally to keep
free from weeds; and
when the plants have
made about their full
growth, gather up the
leaves and lightly tie at
their tips. In from one to
three weeks the hearts

______ will then bleach beauti-

lEndiveT" fully* when the crop

should at once be mar-
keted or used. Do not tie faster than the crop can be disposed
of; for if left after blanching, the hearts will soon begin to decay.
I have succeeded in bleaching endive in less than a week's
time, and much more beautifully than usually seen, by simply
placing one of my celery bleachers (largest size) over each
plant.

VARIETIES.

Green Curled. — Generally grown for market and home use,
and good for salad, greens or garnishing. European catalogues
list and describe nearly a score of other varieties, among them
the Moss-curled, Rouen or Stag's Horn, Green Curled
Upright, Broad Leaved or Batavian, etc. ; but the Green
Curled will do me.

FENNEL; LONG SWEET FENNEL.

Anethum Foeniculum. German, Fenchel ; French, Fenouil
Doux ; Spanish, Hinojo. — The seeds of this easily-grown herb are
used in the manufacture of liquors, and the leaves for various
culinary purposes. Sow in drills one foot apart, like Dill, and
keep free from weeds.

GARLIC.

Allium Sativum. German, Knoblauch ; French, Ail Ordi-
naire ; Spanish, Ago vulgar. — A well-known bulbous perennial
of peculiar strong taste, mostly used by the foreign part of our
population, and valued more in southern countries than at the
cold north, for the simple reason that it has much less of the
biting flavor when grown in a warm than in a cold climate.

Cultural Directions.— 201

This vegetable — if it deserves that name — is only propagated
by means of its sets or " cloves," of which each full-grown plant
has about ten. In early spring plant them in shallow one-foot
drills, about 5 or 6 inches apart in the drills, one clove in a place,
and cover lightly. The crop ripens about the same time as
onions, and is harvested in a similar manner.

Garlic Sets.

GOURDS. Fancy Gourds.

None of these are grown or used here for culinary purposes.
Fruit of various shapes and sizes, often quite ornamental, and
unique. Plant in hills, and train on trellis.

Nest Egg Gourd (Cucumis colocynthis oviformis). — Plant
strong growing. Fruit white and resembling a hen's egg in size
and shape. Often used as a nest-egg, and answering this purpose
admirably.

Dipper Gourd.

Dipper Gourd (Cucurbita lagenaria),

Sugar Trough \Cucurbita lagenaria),

Dish Cloth ( Cucurbita lagenaria},

The fruit of all these is sometimes used for the purpose
indicated by their respective names. When bruised, all the green
parts of the plant emit a strong odor which is far from agreeable,
while the flowers are quite fragrant. All are of rapid growth,
and valuable for covering trellises, arbors, and unsightly places
of any description, but of no use to us as a kitchen vegetable.

2O2 — How to Make the Garden Pay.
HOREHOUND.

Marrubtum vulgar e. German, Andorn ; French, Marrube
Blanc. — A perennial hardy plant easily grown from seed sown in
spring, or propagated by a division of the tufts. The plant is
much used as a cough remedy, especially in the form of " hore-
hound candy." Plant in drills one foot apart.

HORSE-RADISH.

Cochlearia (Nasturtium] Armor acia. German, Meerettig ;
French, Raifort Sauvage ; Spanish, Taramago. — Horse-radish is
hardly ever found in the home garden as a cultivated vegetable.
It is allowed to propagate itself at will from pieces of root left in
the ground where a plant had once been set out, or otherwise
obtained a foothold, usually in the back-yard or some out-of-the-
way place. From this source the family gets an abundant
supply year after year, without ever bestowing care or attention
to it.

For both the market and farm garden, however, horse-
radish is a most important crop, and almost invariably a profitable
one. It delights in deep, rich, moist soil; and requires but a
minimum of cultivation, since it makes a very large amount of
top, thus giving the weeds little chance, at the same time keeping
the ground well-shaded, moist and mellow.

PLANTING AND CULTIVATION. — Horse-radish produces no
seed, but is always grown from "sets" or pieces of the smaller
roots, cut 4 to 8 inches in length, with upper end slanting and lower
end square. For culture in the farm garden, the ground is well-
manured, deeply plowed, and otherwise thoroughly worked ;
then marked out in rows from 2 to 3 feet apart. Here the root
pieces or sets are planted 15 to 18 inches apart. This is done
by making a hole with a long slim dibber or planting stick, or a
small, light iron bar, and dropping the set, square-end down, into
it, so that the top end is left slightly below the surface. The
soil is then pressed firmly against the set. With cultivator
(or wheel-hoe) and hand-hoe the ground is kept free from weeds,
until the heavy top growth makes further working among the
crop unnecessary.

The eastern market gardener adopts a somewhat different
course. With him horse-radish is chiefly grown as a second
crop, . yet planted almost simultaneously with a first crop.
It usually is made to follow early cabbages, cauliflower or
early beets. Just as soon as the first crop is planted, the
horse-radish sets are put out, in the manner described, in a
row midways between each two rows of the first-crop vegetables,

Cultural Directions. — 203

so to stand 2 or 2^/2 feet one way by 16 or 18 inches the other.
The sets are put in deep enough so the upper or slanting end
will be about 3 inches below the surface of the ground. This is
done to give the first crop time to get out of the
way before the horse-radish appears on the scene.
In the cultivation of the former no notice is taken
of the presence of the horse-radish underneath,
except to clip off any sprout foolhardy enough to
come to the surface prematurely. Horse-radish
makes the most of its growth during the cooler
and moister weather of early autumn. When the
first crop is taken off, its opportunity has come, and
it generally makes the most of it. It will need one
thorough hoeing, and may then be left to take care
of itself. The crop is dug late in the fall, or after
all other crops are taken care of, freed from its
small roots and large tops, and stored in root
houses or pits, to be marketed during winter. A
root when ready for market, appears as in annexed
Horse-radish, illustration. Being trimmed at both ends, it is
given a thorough washing, and a number of them are then tied
together in a bunch, and thus put on the market. It is usually
sold by weight, and one of the best paying late crops.

The small roots are used for sets. When removed from
main root they are at once cut of the proper length and shape,
tied in bundles, and buried in sand in the cellar or pitted in the
open ground until wanted in spring.

AN ENGLISH METHOD. — I
here also illustrate a so-called
improved way of growing horse-
radish, described some time ago,
in the Garden (London). The
discoverer of this method claims

A New Way of Growing Horse-radish,
that the roots, being so much nearer the influence of the sun,
and in warmer soil than those planted perpendicularly (in the
usual way) grow to a much larger size, and are harvested with
much less labor than they would otherwise. The sets are planted
only from 2 to 3 inches deep, almost horizontally, as indicated in
illustration, and given the cultivation as described for those
planted in the usual way.

204 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Hyssop.

HYSSOP.

Hyssopus officinalis. German, hop;
French, Hyssope ; Spanish, Hisopo. — A low-
growing, evergreen perennial, preferring warm,
calcareous soil. In cold climates it is usually
grown from seed sown in the open ground in
April or May. The leaves and other parts of
the plant have an aromatic odor, and pungent,
bitter taste.

KALE OR BORECOLE.

Brassica oleracea acephala. German, Braunkohl, Grunkohl ;
French, Chou-vert ; Spanish, Breton. — This vegetable of the
cabbage family is grown and used in various ways, most usually
as " sprouts " for winter greens, similar to spinach or collards.
Sow seed in early autumn, having drills one foot apart, and
leaving the plants five or six inches apart in the row. South of
New York City it is hardy enough to endure the winters without
protection. In spring the plants are cut, dead leaves trimmed
off, and put up in barrels for sale, or used for greens. The
Germans usually plant kale as
one would late cabbages.
Seed is sown in spring, and
the plants set out in June or
July, in rows three feet apart,
with two or three feet distance
between the plants. Same
cultivation is given as for cab-
bages. During early winter Kaje
the leaves, which grow to a

considerable size, are gathered frequently when frozen, or to be
dug from under the snow, and used for greens. If properly
prepared they are exceedingly palatable, especially as they come
at a time when fresh green stuff is quite scarce. The young
sprouts issuing in spring from -the stumps are also utilized for
greens ; and when boiled and served with vinegar, make a very
popular and palatable salad.

VARIETIES.

German Greens, Dwarf Curled, Sprouts, Green Curled,
Canada, Labrador, with beautifully curled, dark green leaves,
which usually rest on the ground, the plant being quite dwarf.
Usually grown for market as " sprouts." Tender and of superior
flavor, almost equaling Savoy cabbages.

Cultural Directions. — 205

Green Curled Scotch, Winter Greens. — Very hardy, two
to three feet high, has many large and beautifully curled leaves,
which, after exposure to frost, make excellent winter greens, and
sprouts for spring salad. The plant is one of the hardiest of
the whole tribe.

European seedsmen list a large number of varieties, little
grown in America, among them the following :

Intermediate Moss Curled.

Tree Cabbage, or Jersey, which grows four to five feet
high in the first year ; for cattle.

Marrow Kale, a large, coarse sort, with thickened stem, for'
cattle.

Dwarf Purple Curled, with very dark, curled leaves, much
used for winter greens.

KOHL-RABI.

Brassica Caulo-rapa. German, Kohlrabi ; French, ChouRabe;
Spanish, Col de Nabo. — In this we have another vegetable much
less cultivated in American gardens than it deserves. As easily
grown as any member of the cabbage family, it yields in its
swollen, fleshy stem a most palatable dish, which
combines the cabbage and turnip flavors, but in
a more refined degree. It is'deliciously tender,
especially when used just when fully grown;
but when old, becomes hard, tough and unfit for
the table. The usual, method of culture is to
sow seed in drills, 15 or 18 inches apart, and

thin to 6 or 8 inches in the row. The time for ^ , , „ ,.
- .. Konl-Rabi.

sowing is from early spring until summer, so

that a succession may be had from early summer until winter.
Keep the ground loose and free from weeds. With careful
handling, kohl-rabi can also be transplanted successfully.

VARIETIES.

Early Vienna, Improved Imperial. — This, unquestion-
ably, is the best for forcing, late planting, and for general table
use. The tops are very small and leaves short, with slim stalks ;
the balls (bulbs, heads or whatever we may call them) handsome,
forming very early, and retaining their delicious tenderness for
a long time. There is also a purplish variety of this in cultivation.

Large White. — The balls form much later in this than in
the preceding and grow to a large size. The leaves also grow
large, with stout leaf-stalks, so that it is easily distinguished from
the Vienna by its much heavier top. Requires nearly the whole
season to come to full development. For the kitchen garden it
will be found a good companion to the Vienna. If both are

2o6 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

planted at the same time, in early spring, the one will supply you
with tender balls in the forepart, and the other in the latter part
of the season.

LAVENDER.

Lavandula Spica. German, Lavendel ; French, Lavande ;
Spanish, Espliego. — Lavender leaves are sometimes used for
seasoning, but the chief value of the plant is in its flowers, which
are used in the manufacture of the well-known perfumery.
"Grows in compact tufts with numerous stalks two feet high.
Perennial, and generally propagated by division of the tufts,
sometimes by cuttings, and in rarer cases from seed. Set the
plants 15 or 18 inches apart, and keep free from weeds. They
will last a number of years, succeeding best in light calcareous
soil.

LEEK.

Allium Porrum. German, Lauch ; French, Poire au ;
Spanish, Puerro. — Leek, although but rarely found in American
home gardens, is quite extensively cultivated as a second crop,
to follow early beets, cabbages, etc., in the market gardens near

cities having a large for-
eign population. The
ground should be rich
from previous manurings,
and receive an additional
dressing besides.

CULTIVATION. — In April
or early May sow seed in
seed bed, having rows one
foot apart, and cultivating
same as onions from seed.
In July, the young plants,
then about as thick as a
goose quill, are planted
out on soil cleared from
the earlier crop and well
prepared, in rows one foot
apart, with five inches distance between the plants. They should
be set deeply (with a dibber) since their market value depends
on the bleached condition of the root and stalk. For the same
reason, the soil, in hoeing, is drawn up towards them. Leeks
transplant very easily at any time while the soil is moist, but the
loose roots and leaves should be trimmed back, and the roots
dipped in water, previous to setting.

Giant Italian Leek.

Cultural Directions. — 207

The crop may be stored and wintered somewhat similar to
celery, in trenches or root-houses, or marketed directly from the
field in the fall. The decayed leaves are to be removed, roots
and tops cut back, and the plants, after washing, tied in bunches
of half a dozen or more, and marketed.

VARIETIES.

Long Flag, Large Flag, Broad Flag, London Flag. —
Often ten inches long, and nearly two inches wide. A good
early, productive sort, and popular with our market growers.

Scotch Flag, Musselburgh. — A form of the common
long leek, somewhat hardier than the Large Flag, and with a
stem sometimes 10 or 12 inches long, but only an inch in diameter.

New Giant Italian is introduced as a variety of very large
size, hardy, and of mild flavor. Perhaps identical with the
Giant Carentan introduced in England.

LETTUCE.

Lactuca Sativa. German, Salat ; French, Laitue ; Spanish,
LecJuiga. — The production of lettuce in hot-beds and hot-houses
during winter, and in cold-frames and cold-houses in early spring,
is one of the chief resources for money for a large number of
market gardeners. The chapters on " Cold Frames " and " Cold
Forcing Houses " deal more fully with this subject. As an early
market garden crop for outdoor culture it is, perhaps, of still
greater general importance.

GROWING FOR -MARKET. — Plants are usually grown from
seed sown in open ground in latter part of September, trans-
planted into cold-frames (allowing 4 to 5 square inches space to
each) toward end of October or early November, and wintered
over in same way as early cabbage plants. Just as soon as the
ground is in working order in early spring, the plants are set
out in warm, rich, well-manured and well-prepared soil, 12 by 10
to 12 inches apart, all by themselves, or in rows between early
cabbages or cauliflowers. The latter plan is often adopted by
good market gardeners for the sake of utilizing space. The
lettuce crop comes off in time to give to the other crop the entire
space, long before it is needed, and for this reason is almost clear
gain. To a more limited extent lettuce is also grown for summer
and fall market from seed sown in one foot drills in open ground ;
the drills one foot apart, and the plants thinned to about the
same distance.

In favored localities in the middle states, and almost every-
where further south, lettuce sown or planted out in open ground
in the autumn will usually winter all right, especially if protected
(when thought necessary) by lightly covering with evergreen

2o8 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

boughs, or coarse litter, and will give a crop much in advance
of that planted out in spring. It should go without saying that
the stimulus given to plant growth by free use of the hoes
cannot be safely dispensed with in the lettuce patch.

GROWING FOR HOME USE. — People who know lettuce only
as loose leaves (cut-lettuce, leaf-lettuce) grown in close rows or
masses, as usually found in American kitchen gardens, have not
yet learned to appreciate the possibilities of this vegetable as
salad material, nor all its inherent virtues. My method of
growing it for home use brings out all its best points.

At the earliest possible date in spring I sow seed of various
varieties in drills 12 to 15 inches apart, and give clean and
thorough cultivation from the start by means of the hand wheel-
hoe, same as all the other closely planted vegetables in the patch.

Hanson.

Strict attention is given to early thinning, the most vigorous plants
being left, so they stand about 3 or 4 inches apart in the drills.
Rapid growth is forced by occasional light dressings of nitrate
of soda (a little saltpetre will give similar results); and as soon
as the heads have fairly begun to form, we commence using them
for the table, thinning the plants as we go along, until they stand
10 or 12 inches apart in the rows. By this time they have
developed into large heads, sometimes of mammoth size, and of
the delicious crispness and tenderness which only rapid growth
can give us. Thus we have always the very best quality of
salad, the little partly-developed heads at first, and later the hard,
solid, large ones. As we always have it in great abundance, the
crisp inner hearts alone are used, and the large outer leaves go
to the fowls. Thus grown, lettuce makes a most excellent salad,
indeed, above all comparison with the stuff usually found in the
markets, or in most people's kitchen garden. Repeated sowings
should be made for succession.

Cultural Directions. — 209

For earliest use I often set a row of cold-frame-wintered (or
hot-bed-grown) plants between two rows sown with early
cabbages, which is merely a modification of the method of grow-
ing lettuce for early market in alternate rows with cabbages.

VARIETIES.

These are exceedingly numerous ; and many new varieties,
both for market and home use, are being introduced every year.
Indeed we have so many really good sorts that the selection of a
few is not without difficulty. Yet we can take any one out of
dozens of them, and feel perfectly satisfied with our bargain.

Tennisball9 Boston Market.
— Well adapted for forcing under
glass ; very early, of medium size,
and a reliable header.

Salamander. — A favorite with
eastern market gardeners, and yet
in the front rank as a market

Green Fringed Salamander.

variety, as it makes
large and firm heads,
and endures the sum-
mer heat well, although
in the latter respect
it is now surpassed
by many newer intro-
ductions.

Hanson. — An old
favorite for market in
the New England
States. A good, reliable
header, but perhaps
surpassed in many
characteristics by the recently introduced Improved Hanson.
Boston Curled and

Green Fringed. — These form somewhat loose heads, and
therefore not adapted for market purposes ; but their curled or
fringed masses of foliage make them attractive for the home garden.
Buttercup. — The most delicate appearing of any lettuce I
am acquainted with. Only medium in size, but the heads are
firm, and foliage of a most pleasing beautiful golden color, which
would naturally suggest the name given it. It is one of the
varieties that has come to stay in my garden.

Ohio Cabbage. — A beautiful summer lettuce, of very large
size, firm head, tender and reliable. Also good for early.

Ohio Cabbage.

2io — How to Make the Garden Pay.

California Butter. — A long-standing summer variety,
making large, firm heads with dark foliage.

Marblehead Mammoth,

New York. — Those two are newer sorts of remarkable thrift,
giving us heads of the very largest size, but somewhat lacking in
compactness. Beautiful and well worthy a place in the home garden.

Stubborn-Head, Stubborn-Seeder. — Introduced as a fine,
firm-heading variety, able to endure the summer heat and drouth
for a long time, and without running to seed.

Prize Head. — Forms a large, tender and crisp mass of
leaves of superior flavor.

Passion. — A California variety that stands the heat remark-
ably well, and at the same time forms a very large solid head.

Philadelphia Butter. — Produces fine heads of large size ;
very certain to head.

Cos Varieties.— These are favorites in England, but little
grown in our gardens. Leaves elongated, with a large thick
mid-rib. The hearts are blanched by tying the tips of the leaves,
which have an upright habit of growth.

MARJORAM (Sweet.)

Origanum Majorana. German, Majoran ;
French, Marjolaine ; Spanish, Mejorana, — The
leaves and young shoots of this perennial
sweet herb are highly esteemed by many
people as a seasoning, and Mother's marjoram-
flavored "veal pot-pie" will not easily fade
out of my memory. The plant is cultivated
as an annual, and of easy culture. Early in
spring, sow seed in shallow drills, one foot
Sweet Marjoram. apart, and keep free from weeds.

Cultural Directions. — 211

MARTYNIA.

Marty nia proboscidea. German, Gemshorner; French, Mar-
tynia; English, Unicorn Plant. — An annual of easiest culture;
plant large, strong-growing
rather coarse, yet decidedly
interesting. Flowers large
and similar to catalpa in
shape; fruit curved, and ter-
minating in a long, hooked
point. While young and
tender it is frequently used
for pickles. Sow seed where
plant is to grow, giving each a space of 2 or 3 feet square. If
seed is allowed to ripen on the plant, and to scatter upon the
ground, plenty of plants may be expected to spring up the
following season.

MELON— MUSK.

Cucumis Melo. German, Me lone ; French and Spanish, Melon.
— Where climatic conditions in the northern states, and shipping
and marketing facilities at the south are favorable to their cul-
ture, melons constitute a very important money crop of the farm
garden. For the home garden they are almost indispensable
everywhere. I believe there are few things, if any, that are a
more general object of desire for the younger members of the
family, or would be more painfully missed by them, than a good
supply of fine melons ; and I am sure no household that has
once had its fill of the fruit, in all its freshness and lusciousness
as it comes directly from the garden, will ever wish to forego
the pleasures of the melon patch again, even for a single season.

SOIL AND CULTURE. — A rich, warm loam, more or less sandy,
and plenty of good compost or fertilizers are required. New land
— on the wide rotation system — is always preferable, in order to
reduce the dangers from insect and disease attacks to a minimum,
^nd nothing better could be found very easily than a young
clover or old pasture lot. Plow deep, and otherwise prepare the
ground well, then mark off rows from 4 to 6 feet apart each way,
according to the strength of the soil, and vigor of variety to be
planted. A shovelful or two of well-rotted compost is mixed
with the soil at each intersection, and a large broad hill formed
with the hoe.

Next drop a dozen or two of seeds scatteringly over the hill,
and cover with half an inch of soil, pressing it firmly over the
seed with the back of hoe. Only the three or four thriftiest
plants are left in each hill; the rest must be pulled up at the

212 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

first or second hoeing. Cultivate frequently with the horse
wheel-hoe, and hoe afterwards, drawing fresh soil up to the plants.
Guard against the attacks of the yellow-striped cucumber bug,
the squash borer and other insects ; and keep free from weeds.

I usually pinch off the ends of
leading shoots when they have
grown several feet in length, for
the purpose of forcing out the
laterals, on which the fruit is always
borne. In early September I also
remove the later settings of fruit,
which cannot be expected to come
to maturity before frost. For ship-
ping and marketing, melons must
be picked when yet green, but fully
matured, so that they will be in
best condition for the table when
they reach the consumer. In order
to make the crop earlier, and at the
same time protect the plants from bug attacks, they are fre-
quently started on pieces of inverted sod, in hot-bed or cold-
Irame, in the same way as described for Lima beans. Care
should be taken to make the transfer from frame to open ground
on moist, cloudy days only; then cultivate same as directed for
plants started in open ground.

Perfection.

VARIETIES.

Hackensack. — The most popular market sort among
growers near New York City and
in New Jersey. Large, round ;
depressed at the ends ; deeply
netted and productive.

Cassaba.— A large, long,
green-fleshed melon of same
excellent quality as Nutmeg.
Can be recommended for market,
as well as the home garden.

Nutmeg. — Green-fleshed, of
delicious flavor. Size medium;
round in shape; prolific; good
for market and home use.

Early Christiania. — Very
early, of fair size; productive,
and valuable for early market.

Netted Gem. — Quite small, thick-meated, of fine flavor,
and extremely early.

Cultural Directions. — 213

Perfection. — Nearly round, and of good size, frequently
weighing 8 to 10 pounds. Of a dark green color outside, heavily
netted, while inside they are of a rich orange color. Flesh very
thick, there being scarcely room for the seed. Can be recom-
mended alike for either home or market use.

Starn's Favorite. — This variety is nearly round, just a little
oblong, thickly netted, with thick green flesh ; rich and spicy
and one of the best- flavored in cultivation. They are shy
seeders ; the cavity for seed in many of them is so small that if
they were all seed inside the flesh, they could not contain many.

if
I

Jenny Lind. — It is surprising that this, a
most delicious small melon, is so little known
outside ot the State of New Jersey. There it is
more largely grown than any other, and thou-
sands upon thousands of baskets are annually
shipped to the Philadelphia and New York mar-
kets. It is the earliest of all green-fleshed sorts.

Superior. — Ripens about the same time as
the Jenny Lind, a strong and vigorous grower.
So attractive in appearance that it is sure to
command good prices.

Emerald Gem. — Plant and fruit small.
The latter has a smooth, deep-green skin and
salmon-colored flesh, unsurpassed for sweetness,
richness, and lusciousness. Almost solid, con-
taining but few seeds, and ripening thoroughly
clear to the thin skin. When ripe it separates
from the stem ; but being of inconspicuous color, and inferior
size, the " small boy " is apt to pass it by. This feature, com-
bined with its unexcelled high quality and sweetness, renders it
indispensable for the home garden. The markets also are just

Banana.

214 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

beginning to appreciate its fine qualities. It can be planted in
hills only 3 or 4 feet apart each way, two or three plants to the
hill.

Bay View. — A white-fleshed, oblong variety, with green,
netted skin. Medium sized.

Montreal, Montreal Nutmeg. — A mammoth variety, much
grown under glass at the northeast. I did not find it of much

value for outdoor culture in New
Jersey.

Osage. — A Western market
sort ; green fleshed, small, round,
netted.

Banana. — Grows 18 inches and
upward in length, and only 2 to 4
inches in thickness. Flesh thick,
solid, reminding somewhat of
bananas.

Hardy Ridge. Algerian Canteloupe.— Flesh

thick and juicy, sweet and having a delicate aroma. Fruit
round, slightly elongated, with many roundish dark green warts
or scabs, which change to an orange color when fruit is ripe.

Prescott, Hardy Ridge. — Thick fleshed, salmon colored ; few
seeds. This and the preceding are favorites with Paris (France)
growers. Not grown to any extent in America, except as curiosity.

MELON— WATER.

Citrullus Vulgaris (Cucumis Citrullus). German, Wasser-
melone ; French, Melon deau; Spanish, Sandia. — Culture of the
water-melon is very similar to that of the musk varieties, except

that the soil, if anything, should be warmer and richer, and the
hills made from six to ten feet apart each way, according to vigor
of variety and strength of soil.

Cultural Directions. — 215

The chief difficulty for the novice is to tell when the melons
are fit for market or consumption, as they should not be picked
too soon, nor left on the vines after the proper stage of maturity
has been reached. The tendril or curl on the vine opposite the

melon generally dries up and dies just about at the time when
the melon ripens ; but this is not always the case, and hence the
sign is not infallible. A safer indication even than this is the
turning of the whitish underside of the fruit (where it rests upon

the ground) to a sort of cream color. Experienced growers and
dealers simply snap the melon with the middle finger, and tell the
ripe from the immature melon by the difference of sound. The
skin of the melon also becomes somewhat duller in color when

2i6 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

approaching maturity, and somewhat firmer. The novice should
compare ripe and green specimens, and try to note all these
differences.

VARIETIES.

Mountain Sweet,

Mountain Sprout,

Black Spanish. — In these
we have three old, but reliable
sorts, still much grown for market.
They are large, sweet and good.

Vick's Early. — A small,
early, solid melon, valuable for
the home garden.

Kolb's Gem. —
Much grown for market
on account of its earli-
ness. Nearly round,
flesh bright red.

Scaly Bark (Flor-
ida Favorite),

Seminole,

Georgia Rattle-
snake,

Pride of Georgia,

Cuban Queen,

Gray Monarch,

Mammoth Ironclad.— All these are large melons, exten-
sively grown at the south for northern market.

Colorado Preserving.

Hungarian. — Introduced a few years ago as a superior
sort for the home garden. Medium size ; skin dark green ; flesh
sweet, melting, brilliant red. Vine strong grower, productive.

Cultural Directions. — 217

Volga. — After two seasons' trial I am disposed to place this
ahead even of the preceding as a reliable sort for the home
gardener. Distinguished by the light color of its rind. A
thrifty grower, enormously prolific, early, of medium size, and to
my taste unsurpassed in quality. If I could plant but one variety
in the home garden, this is the one I would unhesitatingly
select.

Prize Jumbo. — This new melon is a cross between the
Ironclad and Cuban Queen. In color dark-green, striped with
lighter shades of the same color ; flesh of a rich cardinal color,

Prize Jumbo.

free from strings. The rind, while unusually thin for so large a
melon, is so tough it will bear transportation in first-class condi-
tion for very long distances.

Green and Gold. — Name comes from its rich green color
outside, while the flesh is of a golden orange color, free from any
tinge of white, even around the seeds. In productiveness it
equals any of the red-flesh varieties ; has a thin rind. It makes
a desirable ornament for the table, if arranged in contrast with
the red flesh of other varieties.

Christmas. — None surpasses this in vigor of vine. Fruit
late, large, and of most remarkable keeping qualities. I had
them last season in December, kept in a common cool room
upstairs, and they were sound and palatable.

Colorado Preserving. — A productive sort for preserving
and sauce. Flesh firm and solid ; seeds few ; vine thrifty.

2i8 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

MINT.

Mentha viridis. German, Krauseminze ; French, Menthe. —
A hardy perennial, often found in great masses along moist road-
sides, near swamps and low places. Easily propagated by
division of the creeping root-stock. In a small way it is forced
under glass, for winter and spring market, and the growers find
it very profitable. The leaves and young shoots are used for
seasoning, mint sauce, and for flavoring liquors.

MUSHROOM.

Agaricus campestris. German, Champignon; French,
Champignon ; Spanish, Seta. — The very first and most important
requirement for the successful production of mushrooms is a
dark, damp place with an even temperature ranging from 50 to
70 degrees. This may be a common cellar, a cave, railroad or
other tunnel, under the greenhouse benches, or in a building
constructed or arranged for the purposes and heated with pipes.

In proper situation mush-
rooms can be raised the year
around, and it is done on a
large scale in natural caves or
abandoned tunnels in this
and other countries. One of
these mammoth mushroom
factories is said to be in
Mushroom Spawn. successful operation near

Chicago, run by a stock company ; and more chances equally
good for starting an enterprise of this kind might be found in
various parts of the country. It is reported to be a paying
business.

For culture in a common cellar or other place, on a limited
scale, the best time for active operations is from the beginning
of September until January. Take fresh horse droppings without
long straw or litter, and mix it with one-third of its bulk of fresh
loam, or finely cut-up sods from an old pasture, and put in a heap
to heat Turn frequently (perhaps once a day) until the first
violent heat has nearly subsided. Then spread a layer of it,
four feet wide and as long as desired, upon the place intended
for the bed. This may be on the ground or on shelves. Beat
the layer down firmly with a wooden mallet, or other convenient
implement ; spread another layer of the manure mixture upon
the first, and beat down solidly once more, repeating this,
if necessary, so the bed, when finished, will be about 8 or lo
inches in thickness.

Cultural Directions. — 219

Now insert a thermometer in the centre of the mass, and
again allow the first violent heat to subside. When the tempera-
ture has been reduced to 85 or 90 degrees, the bed is ready for
planting the spawn.

Break the bricks of spawn into pieces of the size of a small
egg; then make holes 2 inches deep, and 10 or 12 inches apart
each way, all over the bed, and drop a large piece, or two smaller
ones, into each, afterwards filling the holes with the manure
mixture, and again beat the beds down smoothly and evenly.
Then cover the whole with two inches of fine loam firming it
with the back of spade or shovel.

In a dark cellar and even temperature of from 55 to 60
degrees the mushrooms will appear in from 5 to 8 weeks.
If the cellar is rather light, the bed had better be covered with
6 inches of hay or straw. In a reasonably damp cellar watering
will not be necessary ; but in a dry one warm water should
occasionally be sprinkled over the bed with a fine rose sprinkler.
A little nitrate of soda, or saltpetre, dissolved in the water will,
I think, be found of great advantage in lengthening the bearing
period of the bed. The spawn can be obtained of any large
seed house.

MUSTARD (White Mustard.)

Sinapis Alba. German, Gelber Senf ; French, Moutarde
blanche ; Spanish, Mostaza blanca. — Annual of rapid growth and
easiest culture. The leaves while young are used for salads and
for garnishing, and are of pleasant pungency. Sow seed in drills
one foot apart, and keep free from weeds.
The ripe seed is variously used in the prep-
aration of pickles, and when ground makes
the chief ingredient in the well-known condi-
ment on sale in groceries under the name
" Mustard." Some years ago I saw a variety
of mustard in the south, where it was grown
under the name " Curled mustard " for greens
and for salad. Each plant formed a great
mass of beautifully curled leaves, and I grew it for two seasons,
then accidentally lost the seed, and have not been able to find a
new supply. Probably this is a sport or selection of the Chinese
Cabbage-Leaved mustard.

NASTURTIUM. (Indian Cress) Dwarf.

Tropaolum Minus. German, Kapuziner Kresse ; French,
Capucine petite ; Spanish, Capuchina pequena. — Annual of easy
culture, and like the climbing form (T. Majus) more frequently
found in the flower garden and border than in the kitchen

Nasturtium.

Okra.

220 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

garden. The flowers of both forms are sometimes used for
garnishing, and the young seed pods, pickled in vinegar, for
seasoning. Sow seed in border, or in rows one foot apart,
thinning to 4 or 6 inches apart in the rows.

OKRA.

Hibiscus esciilentus. French, Gombaud ; Spanish, Gombo
(Quimbombo). — The plant succeeds in almost any soil, being an

annual of easy culture.

Little grown in the north,

but quite popular in the

southern states, where the

young and tender seed

vessels are used as a table

vegetable, in the form of

soups and stews, to quite

an extent. These pods are

apt to grow somewhat

tough at the North. Sow

seed in rows 2^/2 to 3^

feet apart, and thin to
9 or 12 inches apart in the row. Cultivate same as corn.

VARIETIES.

Dwarf Green, Improved Dwarf Green. — An early and
productive sort of low growth.

Long Green. — Plant dwarf; pods long and ridged.

White Velvet. — Introduced as having very large, round
smooth pods. Very productive.

ONION.

AlliumCepa. German, Zwiebel ; French Oignon ; Spanish,
Cipolla. — Onion growing presents itself to our consideration in
three materially-differing aspects, namely, culture in the market
garden, culture in the farm garden, and culture in the kitchen
garden. This vegetable, as a crop, is of value to the market
gardener chiefly in the role of " bunch onions," /. *., grown from
sets, pulled and bunched in the green state when only partly
developed, and thus put on the market. The sets, like mature
onions for market, are chiefly grown by people who make it a
specialty, and in farm gardens more remote from the larger
market centers. Some of our market gardeners, however —
probably induced by the high price which they are often com-
pelled to pay for sets—, now grow not only enough to supply their
own needs, but a surplus for market besides.

Cultural Directions. — 221

GROWING SETS. — The selection of soil is of greatest import-
ance. It should be of a sandy nature, or even clear sand, free
from weed seeds, rubbish and coarse gravel, and at least
moderately fertile. A good top-dressing of some good fertilizer
may be sufficient. Weedy manure must be scrupulously avoided.
Such land needs thorough preparation. After plowing, the
harrow and roller should not be spared, and the Meeker small
disk harrow, or a steel rake, is needed to put on the finish. What
we want is a perfect, smooth, mellow seed-bed. The seed is
sown thickly in rows, either by hand or with the drill. The rows
may either be made 9 to 12 inches apart, and sown in the usual
way, only more thickly, or from 15 to 2O inches apart, and sown
scatteringly in a strip 2 or 3 inches in width. I prefer the drills
12 inches apart, and to sow in a strip of about i}£ inches in
width, which allows of the convenient use of the wheel-hoe.

SOWING. — The easiest method of sowing onion seed for sets
is with one of the common garden drills, and in doing so, I
usually let the seed run moderately free, and go twice or even
three times over the same row, thus sowing the required quantity,
and at the same time spreading it over the desired width in each
row. To give a full crop, the plants have to stand pretty thick.
It is always an advantage to roll the ground after sowing.

For sowing by hand, the rows should be marked out with a
marker having wide blunt teeth, in order to make wide marks,
and allow the seed to be scattered over a wider space across the
rows. The covering is done with both hands, the gardener
moving along over the rows on his knees, and drawing the soil
over the row from both sides, or with the feet in the way quite
commonly practiced for covering the larger seeds.

The amount of seed needed ranges between 40 and 60 pounds
per acre, according to distance between the rows, and width
of sowing. The aim is to grow bulbs of less than y2 inch in
diameter, and the largest bulk without undue crowding. The
varieties used for this purpose are Extra Early Red, Yellow
Dutch, and Silver Skin.

CULTIVATION AND HARVESTING. — Cultivation is given in the
usual way, with wheel-hoe ; and weeds are pulled up by hand
without thinning the crop.

When the tops begin to die down, in August, the bulbs are
harvested, either by lifting out with the onion set attachment of
the Planet Jr. wheel-hoe, or by raking in windrows, 5 or 6
ows together, care being taken, of course, to get the teeth well
under the bulbs. They are left on the ground for 2 or 3 days
to cure, and then taken under shelter, and spread out on a dry
floor to be cleaned at leisure. This is done by rubbing the sets
between the hands, to remove remnants of tops and roots, and
adhering soil or sand, and by running through fanning mill

222 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

afterwards. All bulbs that will not readily pass through a grain
sieve with ^-inch meshes are too large for sets and should be
sold or used for pickling onions.

Another method of harvesting consists of running a large
garden trowel lengthwise under the row, lifting up the bulbs, with
soil adhering to them, and throwing into a small-meshed sieve
to sift out the sand and soil.

STORING. — In storing for winter the bulbs (sometimes mixed
with chaff) are piled up 4 or 5 inches deep in a dry loft, there
allowed to freeze, and covered with a foot or so of straw or hay
until spring. Or they may be stored in shallow open crates, and
protected from alternate freezing and thawing.

GROWING BUNCH ONIONS. — The ground should be put in
best possible condition. Use 50 or more tons of good compost
per acre, besides top-dressings of poultry manure, wood ashes,
fertilizers, etc., not to forget of nitrate of soda. The same
thorough preparation is required as for growing sets. Then
mark out the ground in rows 9 to 12 inches apart, and plant the
sets 2 or 3 inches apart in the rows. This is best done by pick-
ing up the set between thumb and forefinger, top up, and press
firmly down into the soil. Thus they can be planted quite rapidly.
Then cover still more soil over them with the feet, firming at
the same time, and roll. Afterwards keep the ground loose and
free from weeds by the frequent use of wheel and hand hoes, and
at earliest date commence to bunch and market. While small,
a dozen bulbs may be required for a bunch ; later on 6 or 7 will
be sufficient.

There is still another method of growing early bunch onions,
and when successful, is more convenient, and often more profit-
able than the one described, as it requires less labor and expense,
and gives an earlier crop. Seed is sown during August or Sep-
tember (perhaps later at the South), in drills one foot apart, and
at the rate of 6 or 8 Ibs. of good seed per acre. At the north
this method is risky, and the whole crop may winter-kill ; but
even in an exposed situtation in Western New York, I have
occasionally succeeded in carrying the crop through without any
effort at protection, and without loss. Covering with evergreen
boughs, or coarse litter may be a wise precaution. In the middle
and southern states there is nothing, to my knowledge, that could
hinder growing bunch onions on this plan with complete success.

GROWING THE BULB FOR MARKET. — This, as a business,
sometimes pays, and sometimes it does not. The financial out-
come depends on management, and on the season's prices. Onion
growing in the farm garden can easily be overdone. Only last
year thousands of barrels of as fine onions as were ever grown
had to be left to spoil, or were fed to stock, for want of buyers at
even 25 or 30 cents per barrel.

Cultural Directions. — 223

An average onion crop is not likely to ever yield big returns,
but a large one (the result of plenty of manure and high culture
generally) with a fair market price, always pays the grower
reasonably well. The premium in this, as in all other under-
takings, is invariably awarded to skillful management.

SOIL. — A good crop can be produced on soil of almost any
composition (sand, sandy loam, clay loam, clay, muck), provided
it contains a fair amount of decaying organic matter; but it
should be free from weed seeds. Use the richest soil you have ;
thin soil if no other can be had ; and sandy loam in preference to
others. Muck lands sometimes produce enormous crops, but the
bulbs are not as firm as those grown upland. Land in fine tilth,
perhaps having been cropped with carrots, beets, cabbages, or
other vegetable crops, is usually given the preference, and justly
so ; but a young, rich, clean clover sod, thoroughly worked, is
seldom less profitable, and often more so, than old ground.

Manure and prepare the land as thoroughly as described for
the production of bunch onions, being particularly careful to
avoid manure which contains live weed seeds, for the greatest
expense connected with onion growing is the destruction of weeds.

SOWING SEED. — The torrid heat and prolonged drought of
August should find the crop ready for harvesting. Consequently
it is absolutely necessary for best success to sow as early in spring
as the ground can be got in working order, perhaps by the help
of fall plowing and laying off in beds. In the middle and
southern states fall sowing may be practicable, and should at
least be tested in every locality there. Here we usually sow in
April, seldom in March.

When the Meeker disk-harrow (or the steel-rake) has left the
ground perfectly smooth .and fine, good, plump, water-cleaned
seed, that stands at least 75 per cent, germination test, is sown
with the garden drill in rows 1 2 inches apart, at the rate of four
or five pounds per acre. Most growers sow further apart, 16, 18,
or even 20 inches ; but I consider this a useless waste of space
and opportunity, since the yield per row will be the same,
whether the rows are 12 or 20 inches apart, and the narrower
planting, with no greater outlay for manure and tillage (weeding
excepted), increases the crop in exact proportion to the increased
number of rows. The style of wheel-hoe to be used perhaps
influences the question of width of row somewhat. A Ruhlman,
going between the rows, works to best advantage when the rows
are 14 or 16 inches apart; while the Planet Jr. (and any other
row-straddler) can be profitably run among rows that are only
12 inches apart. The roller in the rear of the distributing
tube and hopper, in our modern seed drills, firms the soil
sufficiently to insure prompt germination of seed under common
circumstances.

224 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

CULTIVATION. — Usually the young plants will begin to
appear above ground inside of two weeks, and now an energetic
and unceasing fight against weeds begins, which lasts all through
the larger part of the growing season. Use the wheel-hoe early

and often, and never
attempt to do without one
of these tools in the onion
patch, as this would
almost exclude any possi-
bility of making it pay.
The weeding has to be
done on hands and knees,
early and often enough to
suppress all weed growth.
One of the hand-weeders,
a common table knife with
blade sharpened on both
sides and bent in a curve,
or a common iron spoon,
can be used to advantage
in scraping away the soil
from the growing plants,
and with it all weeds just
starting in the row. Never
draw the soil up to the
onions, as they grow best
on top of the ground. A
second top-dressing of fer-
tilizer, or of wood-ashes, at
the time when the bulbs
have made about half their
growth, often has the happi-
est effects. Still I consider
repeated applications of
nitrate of soda, say at the
rate of 100 pounds per acre
each time, of more conse-
quence than any other
top-dressing I know of.
Early attention should be
directed to the proper
thinning. At the second
weeding the plants must be left to stand not less than 2 inches
apart in the rows. Remove the weaker — always leave the
strongest plants. In subsequent weedings a narrow-bladed hoe
may be used, thus allowing the work to be done in a standing
position.

^
CaLQBB

DANVERS

Prizetaker.

Wethersfield.

Cultural Directions. — 225

I cannot lay too much stress on the great importance of
timely action in every stage of the proceeding. A few days'
neglect in cultivating or weeding may increase the amount of
labor required to such an extent as to double the cost of crop, at
the same time greatly reducing the yield.

HARVESTING. — When the bulbs have reached their full size
and maturity, as indicated by the dying down of the tops, the
crop is ready to be harvested.
Pull the onions by hand, or rake
them out by means of a dull
steel rake ; taking great care to
avoid cutting into them ; then
leave in windrows on the ground
to cure. Afterwards twist or cut
off the remnants of tops and
roots, if there be such, and try
to sell the crop immediately from
the field. If this cannot be done,
store in a rather thin layer on a
dry floor or loft, until they can
he disposed of. I would not
advise the novice to attempt

wintering even a part of the crop, as this is a task which involves
risk even for the more experienced.

ONIONS IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. — For home use we want
variety at all times, consequently we should plant a few sets to
give us an early supply of bunch onions. This we do in the way
already described for market growing, setting them in a row or
two among our regular patch of closely-planted vegetables. We
also desire onions for late use, and so we must also sow seed of

various varieties, a row or so of
each. Here the general rules
given for culture in the farm
garden should be closely fol-
lowed. The thinning can be
done gradually, and the young
plants thus pulled out of the
rows will supply the kitchen
with onion material and onion
flavor during the larger part of
summer, and until the bulbs mature. For convenience and uni-
formity's sake we allow the same space between rows as adopted
for all the other small stuff, 1 5 inches being the usual and most
convenient distance between the teeth of the hand marker designed
for use in the home garden. Seed is usually sown by hand, but
if a garden drill is handy, and seed is to be sown in larger
quantities than single small packages, by all means use the drill.

Yellow Dutch.

226 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Extra Early Red.

I have discovered still another method for growing onions,
both for early and late use, and I consider it of the greatest value.
I am sure it is by far the safest and best way of raising mammoth
bulbs for exhibition purposes, and it has other important
advantages besides.

A NOVEL METHOD. — In February, March or April, start
plants by sowing seed thickly in a well-prepared cold frame, and

as soon as the open ground can be
worked, prepare it in the same thor-
ough way as directed for bunch and
seed onions, using the best of manure
without stint. Mark out the patch
with a hand- marker at the usual
distance, and set the young plants

3 inches apart in the row, or even

4 inches for the large foreign sorts
which succeed admirably under this
treatment. The part intended for
early use as "bunch" onions need
not be planted further than 2 inches

apart. Every other one may then be pulled up and used in an
early stage of growth, and the remaining ones be left to come to
maturity.

I recommend this method with fullest confidence as a most
excellent one, and I believe that even the market gardener (and per-
haps the farm gardener also) may
find points of merit in it which
will recommend it to him for trial.
It reduces the expense for seed to
a minimum ; and while requiring
considerable labor in setting the
plants (although youngsters might
be employed for this purpose to
advantage, and with a saving in
wages), it dispenses with most of
the tedious and delicate hand-
weeding. This work can be done
very conveniently by means of
wheel-hoe and hand hoe alone.
My new method also makes the
crop uniform, and by lengthening
the growing season of the fra-
grant bulb, adds to its individual size, and to the aggregate yield.

I practice this novel method myself— am not merely preach-
ing it. Under this season's most unfavorable circumstances my
Prize-taker onions, grown in this way, yielded at the rate of
considerably above 1000 bushels per acre.

White Globe.

Cultural Directions. — 227

VARIETIES.

Our list of standard market sorts is not so very large, and
often we have but little choice in this respect. On the other
hand the strains and selections of the different kinds are numer-
ous, and greatly differing in merit. Of the Danvers Yellow, for
instance, we have strains of almost perfect globe shape, others
more or less approaching it, and from this every grade to the
flat shape of the Yellow Dutch. Some strains are so improved,
by careful selection, that the scallion is a
rare occurrence among them, while others

Rocca. Top Sets. Silver Skin.

give a large proportion of thick-necked bulbs. Our first concern,
therefore, is not only to getfres/i seed, but also the best strain of
the best varieties. Repeated trials of the seeds offered under
guarantee by leading seedsmen will give you the desired infor-
mation about their worth.

Wethersfield, Wethersfield Red. — The leading red
market variety, large, coarse, reliable and exceedingly prolific.
Skin deep purplish-red ; flesh white ; flavor strong. Unsurpassed
as a keeper.

Danvers Yellow, Yellow Globe Danvers. — Undoubtedly
the most reliable market variety, and one of the most prolific.
Early, good-sized, as round as a ball, and smooth as an apple,
neck very small, flesh fine-grained. Cannot be praised too
highly.

White Globe, Southport White Globe. — The most popu-
lar white market sort. Beautiful silvery-white in color, and of
perfect globe shape. Large, prolific, reliable. Should be cured
in the shade, otherwise it is apt to become discolored. Keeps
well.

Red Globe, Southport Red Globe,

Yellow Globe, Southport Yellow Globe. — These resemble
the White Globe in every way except color.

Yellow Dutch, Yellow Strassburg. — Prolific and of fine
flavor. Shape rather flat. Largely grown for market, and
almost exclusively for yellow sets.

228 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Extra Early Red. — Desirable for early market. Hardy,
reliable, growing quickly to fair size, A good keeper, and
especially valuable for red sets.

Silver Skin, White Portugal, Philadelphia White.—
Largely grown for pickling and for white sets. Of mild pleasant
flavor, and decidedly handsome appearance.

Maule's Prizetaker. — This I consider the finest of all
onions with which I am acquainted. I have grown almost every
variety listed by seedsmen ; but have never found one as large
in size nor as handsome in shape and general appearance. This
variety looks for all the world like the imported Spanish onion,
which is sold in our fruit stores at five cents or more per pound.

White Barletta. — The earliest and smallest onion ; excel-
lent for pickles.

New Queen. — Another small, handsome early pickling
onion, good keeper. White.

Silver King, Mammoth Silver King. — Introduced as the
largest of all onions. Skin silvery-white, flesh remarkably sweet
and tender.

Giant Rocca of Naples,

Giant Pompeii,

Mammoth Red Tripoli,

Giant White Tripoli, etc., etc. — All these are Italian
varieties of quick growth, large size, remarkably mild flavor,
but not long keepers.

Potato Onions. — These produce no seed, and are always
grown from the bulbs, which when planted, increase in size, and
also produce a cluster of bulbs around the one planted. I have
had excellent success with it in New Jersey, and seen it do well
in southern Pennsylvania and sections south of these localities.
Profitable for market, and entirely reliable.

Egyptian Perennial Tree Onion. — This is probably
grown more for its tops, to be used during winter for soups, etc.,
than for its bulbs. It is entirely hardy, and after once planted,
can be had from the garden almost the entire year. I do not
value it very highly.

PARSLEY.

Apium Petroselinum. German, Peter silie; French, Persil ;
Spanish, Peryil. Grown to a limited extent in market and home
gardens. The leaves are used for seasoning soups, and for gar-
nishing. Market gardeners sow for early supply in cold frame,
or between rows of other vegetables. Seed is slow to germinate,
and an early crop like radishes or lettuce can be taken off in
time to give to the parsley the needed room. When large
enough, the tops are repeatedly cut, and tied in little bunches for

Cultural Directions. — 229

market, each containing about as much as can be encircled by

thumb and forefinger. For later use, seed may be sown in open

ground, in drills 12 inches apart. A little patch will go a great

ways towards overstocking

the market, and half a

dozen plants, well fed, will

be sufficient for a family

garden. For winter use

the leaves may be dried ;

or a few plants taken up and

trenched in like celery.

Or you may have a few Double Curled.

plants growing in a box

or keg in the kitchen or cellar, or under the greenhouse bench.

To grow it in the latter way, the plants should be started from

seed in the fall.

VARIETIES.

Plain or Common. — Somewhat hardier than the curled sorts,
and good enough for seasoning.

Double Curled, Extra Double Curled. — A beautiful
variety with thick, curled foliage, and suitable both for flavoring
and garnishing.

Fern-Leaved. — Foliage most beautifully serrated, excel-
lent for garnishing.

PARSNIPS.

Pastinctca Sativa. German, Pastinake ;
French, Panais ; Spanish, Chirivia. — Parsnip
culture is very similar to
that of the carrot, and the
vegetable has about the
same value as a garden and
farm crop, and for stock
feeding. Sow in April or
May in rows 12 to 18
inches apart, being careful
to use new seed only ; and
thin the young plants to
3 or 4 inches apart. The
plants start slowly and
feebly at first, somewhat
like Parsley, but soon get
strong and able to take
Soil should be clean and moderately rich.

Early Short Round,
care of themselves.

Parsnips are perfectly hardy, and their flavor is improved by

230 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

frost. That part of the crop which is wanted for use or market
during the winter, should be dug before the ground freezes solid,
and stored in root cellar. The balance is left in
the ground, and will carry through the winter
without loss. For stock in early spring it is
very superior — equal to carrots — and the easy
way of wintering gives to parsnips a great
advantage over all other root crops.

VARIETIES.

Long Smooth. — The old standard variety,
with very long roots. Large and reliable.

Hollow Crown, Student, Improved Half
Long. — Roots handsome, and very clean-
skinned; crown despressed or hollow. A
superior half-long table variety.

Round, Early Short Round. — Very early ;
roots short and chunky, somewhat like a turnip
in shape. Decidedly the best for very shallow
soils.

Long
Smooth.

PEANUT.

Arachia hypogcea. German, Erdnuss ; French, Arachide,
Spanish, Chufa. — The peanut is an important farm crop for Vir-
ginia and other south-
ern states; and while
interesting everywhere,
it is very unreliable
north of Philadelphia,
as it requires a long
season to bring it to
maturity. In the north-
ern home garden it
will especially interest
the young people,
and the newly intro-
duced " Spanish " or
"Improved" nut should
be tried just on this
account where the com-
mon Virginia peanut
cannot be expected to
ripen. Select warm
soil, if possible of a cal-
careous nature; mark
out rows 3 feet apart, and drop the nuts about a foot apart in the

Improved "Ground Pea" or Peanut.

Cultural Directions. — 231

rows, one in a place, and cover with 2 inches of soil. It is not
necessary to remove the hulls or shucks before planting. Culti-
vate and hoe freely, leaving but one plant in a place ; and keep
the soil well mellowed up around the plants when seeds (nuts)
are forming. It is quite interesting to observe the flowers as they
insert their ovaries into the mellow soil, where they complete
their growth and form nuts. Before freezing weather the plants
are dug, or pulled up. Hang under a shed to cure ; then gather,
clean and sort the nuts.

VARIETIES.

Common Virginia. — The common market sort of the
south, and found in every fruit store in America. Prolific, nuts
large and well scattered.

Spanish Improved. — Several weeks earlier than the pre-
ceding. Nuts all growing in a compact cluster near the main
stalk, and can be harvested by simply pulling up by hand. Pods
small but well filled. Worthy of trial at the north.

PEAS.

Pisum Sativum. German, Erbse ; French, Pois : Spanish,
Guisante. — In green peas we have an important crop for both the
garden and the farm. The profits may not be so very large, but
the product is always salable, and brings early money. Nor is it
necessary that the soil be so very rich
or heavily manured. I found no garden
crop that I can grow with greater ease
and certainty merely by a moderate
application of some good complete fertil-
izer— say 500 or 600 pounds per acre.
Peas seem to be partial to potash, and
this in some form alone, or togetherwith
phosphate (in ashes) frequently give as
good results as complete manure. Peas
do best in the fore-part of the season,
and should be planted early, as those
planted late for " succession " hardly ever
turn out very satisfactory. Sow in drills,
2 to 3 inches deep, and 2^ to 3^ feet
apart, according to vigor of variety and Earliest of All.

strength of soil. When grown for market the first aim should be
to get the crop ready for sale at the earliest possible date.

For the home garden I prefer to sow the best sorts — early,
medium, late and latest — as early as I consider it safe, and often
all at one time. This gives me a succession for 3 weeks or more,

232 — How to Make the Garden Pay,

which is fully sufficient for my purposes. I also look with dis-
favor upon the practice of brushing; hence plant chiefly the more
dwarf sorts which do not require support.

The sowing is usually done by hand in drills opened to the
proper depth, and seed scattered pretty freely to insure a full
stand.

VARIETIES.

Garden peas are classed in three great sections ; namely,
(i) the round or smooth peas ; (2) the wrinkled peas ; and (3)
the edible-podded or sugar peas. The round or smooth sorts
are hardier than the others and can therefore, be planted earlier.
Although all peas are usually classed as perfectly hardy, it is
nevertheless a fact that a large percentage of the seed annually
planted rots in the ground, merely because the ground at the
time of planting is not warm enough for germination.

The majority of farmers plant only the common smooth
kinds, chiefly Black-Eyed Marrowfat, both for home use, and for
market ; and neither they, nor their village customers are aware

MAULE'S

EXTRA EARLY

THE MOST PROFITABLE PEA
FOR MARKET GARDENERS

tenderness of some
wrinkled peas. I

confess I have no appetite for the Black-Eyed Marrowfats, and
others of that class, and do not want it on my table, so long as I
can just as well have wrinkled sorts, that are as much superior
to them as cream is to skim-milk. Besides this the wrinkled
sorts have larger and better-filled pods, and peas of very much

as

Cultural Directions. — 233

larger size, while the plants perhaps are only 12 or 18 inches
high. Our children, for instance, would pick thiee baskets of
Stratagem, or Yorkshire Hero, etc., as quickly and easily
they could fill one of the
Black-Eyed Marrowfats.

Earliest of All,

Maule's Improved
Extra Early. — These two
sorts are the only ones of
the very early smooth
kind, with which I have
been entirely pleased.
Pods are good-sized and
well-filled, and the peas
of very good quality. A
few days earlier than
Little Gem, and decidedly
prolific. Good for both
market and home use.

Alaska,

Daniel O'Rourke,

Philadelphia Extra
Early,

First and Best. — In
these we have other
and very popular market Bliss' Everbearing.

varieties of the first early
smooth class. All of this
kind are somewhat similar in
general characteristics, and
grow from I % to 2 feet high.

Black- Eyed Marrowfat. —
Very popular with farmers for
general use, and as a field
variety. Good bearer; pods
large and well-filled. A late,
smooth variety.

Blue Peter, McLean's
Blue Peter,

Blue Imperial, Dwarf
Blue Imperial,

Blue Beauty. — These blue-
seeded smooth varieties bear
numerous and well-filled pods;

and the peas are large and handsome, but not equal in flavor to
the wrinkled kinds.

American Wonder.

234 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Little Gem, McLean's Little Gem. — A leading and
reliable first-early wrinkled sort, with well-filled pods, and of fine
quality.

Premium Gem. — Resembles the preceding, and is said
to be an improvement on it.

American Wonder.— A very dwarf, very early wrinkled
pea, of unsurpassed quality. Grows seldom
more than 6 to 8 inches high ; and should be
planted only on very rich soil, where highest
culture is given.

Abundance, Bliss' Abundance. — Half-
dwarf, branching, exceedingly prolific. Pods
large, well-filled, I might say overcrowded.
Wrinkled and of fair quality. Late.

Bliss' Everbearing. — Similar in outward
appearance to the preceding, but of vastly better
quality. In this respect really one of the very
best of all peas. Late.

Stratagem. — One of the finest peas in
existence. Plant dwarfish, branching. Pods of
very largest size, and crowded with peas which
are of largest size and remarkably rich and
sweet. Late.

Prince of Wales,
Yorkshire Hero,

Telephone. — These beautiful wrinkled sorts
should be tested in every garden ; pods and
seeds large and the latter sweet and rich. Late.
Champion of England. — The old popular
late wrinkled sort. Plant 4 or 5 feet high. Pods
and peas of fair size and numerous. Peas of
choicest quality.

New Perpetual. — A real summer pea,
worthy its name. A strong grower, branching,
and seemingly inexhaustible in productiveness.
Late, and continues to produce its large and
well-filled pods until fall. Peas very large and
Stratagem. Qf ^ne quaiity, tender, rich and sweet.

Dwarf Sugar. — A low growing sort, bearing edible pods.
None of this class are used to a very large extent in this country.

PEPPER (Chili Pepper.)

Capsicum Anmmm. — German, Piment Pfeffer ; French,
Piment ; Spanish, Pimento. — Easily grown in almost any
rich soil, and almost any location of the United States.
Plants should be started early in hot-bed or green-house,

Ruby King-.

Cultural Directions. — 235

and treated similarly as tomato or egg-plants; but they do

not require near as long a season as either of them to

produce a crop. I usually sow seeds in boxes or flats, often

rather crowded, and in

early June transplant

from there directly to

open ground, 2 or 2^/2

feet apart, and plants 1 5

inches apart in the rows.

Soil of a warm, sandy

character is given the

preference. I stimulate

the plants to thrifty

growth with liberal

dressings of hen manure,

and perhaps wood ashes,

and thus have rows that

for thrift and amount of

fruit are beautiful to

behold. I usually sell some of the peppers; a very few are

utilized in the household, in preparing pickles and chowders,

etc., and the rest are chopped up and mixed with other stuff to

be prepared as a warm breakfast for the hens during fall and

early winter.

VARIETIES.

Ruby King. — Too much cannot be said in its praise both
a market and family variety. Fruit very large, brilliant

red, well-shaped, always
smooth, and of mild flavor.
Prolific.

Large Bell, Bullnose,
Sweet Mountain. —
These are the principal
older market sorts; early,
bright red, mild, thick-
fleshed and prolific.

Golden Dawn. — Re-
sembles Bullnose, except
in color, which is a beau-
tiful yellow. Sweet and
Red Cluster. productive.

Golden Upright. —

Fruit large, golden yellow, smooth, thick-fleshed, mild and
always upright. Plants and foliage of remarkable thrift.

Golden Queen. — Resembles Ruby King, except in color
which is a fine yellow.

236 — How to Make the Garden Pay

Procopp's Giant. — Largest of all, being two or three times
as long as widest diameter ; pointed. Will need a few years more
of careful selection for seed to make it more uniform and smooth,
when it may be-
come one of the
grandest sorts in
existence.

Red Clus-
ter.— A small
plant, perfectly
covered with
coral-red, small,
thin peppers,
all growing in

bunches on the top of branches,
and pointing upward and outward.
Useful for hot pickles. Plant quite
ornamental.

Long Red Cayenne. — Fruit
small, long, very pungent. One of
the old standards.

Celestial. — Fruit about I y2
inches long, conical, at first of
beautiful waxy yellow, then chang-
ing to purplish scarlet. Plant a free grower and thrifty bearer,
and at any stage of development, after fruit has begun to set, a
most attractive thing, worthy to be cultivated as a pot plant in
greenhouse or conservatory.

PENNYROYAL.

Mentha Pulegium. German, Krausemunze ; French, Menthe
Pouliot. — Perennial of the mint family, easily propagated by
division of the creeping root-stock, often found growing wild in
moist, clayey soils. Leaves have an agreeable odor, and are
used for seasoning and for medical purposes.

PEPPERMINT.

Mentha Piperita. German, Pfeffermunze ; French, Menthe
poirree. — Grows wild along the margins of swamps and streams,
and other wet places. In a few localities it is largely cultivated
and utilized in the manufacture of peppermint oil and essence.
Propagated by division of root-stock or stem, and is easily grown.
Plant pieces of root in rows 2 feet by I, and give it a fair chance
to grow, when it will soon take care of itself even on upland.

Cultural Directions. — 237

POTATOES (WHITE.)

Solatium Tuberosum. German, Kartoffel; French , Pomme-de-
terre ; Spanish, Batatas. — The invention of potato planters and
diggers, and the adoption of simplified culture generally, with
consequent greatly increased production and greatly diminished
average prices, have rendered potato growing for fall and winter
market on a small scale much less profitable than it was a few
years ago, and are more and more taking the business out of the
hands of the small grower, and concentrating it in the hands of a
few who plant large areas. The extensive grower has immense
advantages in the opportunities afforded him to make use of all
the modern improved implements ; and the small-scale operator
can hope to stand up against this ruinous machine competition
only by adopting a highly intensive system of cultivation. It is
an unfortunate development, but seems to be the natural out-
growth of all our present industrial conditions, and in entire
conformity with those in other branches of business. Potatoes
may yet be grown on a similar plan as wheat growing is now
carried on at the west by the Dalrymples ; but while the yields
on the large-scale plan may be a little above 100, and certainly
less than 150 bushels per acre, the small grower, by careful
selection of soil, varieties, manures, etc., should aim to bring his
crop up to double the yields named, which together with the far
smaller cost of getting the crop to market, must more than offset
all large-scale advantages.

The production of late potatoes for market is a farm (not a
garden) operation, but the cultivation of early varieties often fits
nicely into market-garden rotation, and, of course, belongs to the
family garden also.

SOIL AND MANURE. — Under proper treatment, the crop can
be grown on soil of almost any composition, provided it has a good
natural or artificial drainage Sandy loam, however, is always
considered best — best for the yield and best for quality of tuber.
All soils for potatoes, however, should be generously provided
with humus (decayed vegetable matter), the more the better ;
hence a young clover sod is always given the preference.

Where the humus supply in the soil is scant, nothing better
in the way of manure could be applied than thoroughly-rotted
compost. Raw stable manure is to be avoided unless it can be
applied a year in advance, or on a preceding crop. As a general
thing, it is much safer to depend on soil in good fertility rather
than on manure applications ; but on soils containing a sufficiency
of vegetable matter I would use a good high-grade complete
fertilizer, such as now made by most large fertilizer concerns
especially for potatoes and other vegetables (a " special potato

238 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

manure ") in preference to even the best of stable manure. It is
pure nonsense and poor economy, however, to waste large
quantities of such fertilizer on utterly run-down land, in the
expectation of growing very large crops right away. I have often
found out that this will not work. Accumulated fertility in the
soil appears to be indispensable for a full measure of success. At
the same time, it will be proper to state that these high-grade
fertilizers, applied at the rate of from 800 to 1600 Ibs. per acre,
have sometimes given me an increase in the yield sufficient to
pay two or three times the cost of manure, besides leaving the
ground in better condition than before.

ROTATION. — To diminish the danger of attacks by potato
beetles, flea beetles, and other insect foes, as well as by the
diseases peculiar to the crop, its frequent change to a location
as far as possible remote from any place where potatoes had
been grown the year before, is to be heartily recommended
as a safe and most practical means. This may not usually
prevent the attacks entirely; but it will tend to render them
far less serious and intense. Although perhaps not generally
recognized, it is nevertheless a fact that few potato crops are
now grown the foliage of which escapes considerable injury
by beetles, blights, and poisonous applications, resulting in
great reduction of the yield. Strictest adherence to the " wide
rotation " principle, therefore, is a practice dictated by ordinary
prudence.

AVERAGE YIELDS. — The average yield of the crop in the
various states is ridiculously low. Some of the reasons for this
fact have already been alluded to. Another is the yet common
practice of planting in check rows, which, besides, are often
needlessly wide apart. A change to drill planting, with not more
than 3 feet space between the rows, and 12 to 18 inches between
the seed pieces, frequently doubles the yield.

The size of seed pieces also has its decided influence upon
the yield. Large seed pieces under average circumstances give
the largest crops. Most growers use pieces too small for their
own good. Let us make an examination of the potato fields a
few weeks after planting time, in spring, and we see the great
majority of the plantings come up slowly and weakly, with a
single stalk growing from each hill, and many gaps in the rows.
We may be sure the yield will be accordingly. Larger pieces,
even whole tubers, have always given me the heaviest yields, and
this to such an extent, that this extremely heavy seeding (some-
times over 30 bushels per acre) has turned out to be very profit-
able on good soil, and under average fair conditions.

The condition of seed is another factor in determining the
yield. A full crop can only be grown from fresh, plump, seed-
tubers that have not been weakened by the emission of spindling

Cultural Directions. — 239

sprouts before planting. Here we probably have the secret why
"northern-grown" seed gives so much better satisfaction to
southern planters than seed from their own localities.

EARLY CROPS. — The same methods suited for the production
of early potatoes in the market garden may also be adopted for
the family garden, and for small-scale operations generally.

The southern states supply the chief markets of the north
with young potatoes long before the northern near-by grower
can get his crop ready. It may be true that the southern potato
grower takes the cream ; but the milk that is left is yet very
acceptable to the northern grower, who manages now to get his
crop into market a little in advance of the rush, thus securing
quite remunerative prices in spite of all southern competition.
Earliness must be the foremost aim.

As means to this end we have (first), a judicious selection of
soil, which should be well-drained, warm, somewhat sandy, and
full of vegetable matter ; (second), the selection of earliest good
varieties, such, for instance, as Early Ohio and Early Sunrise ;
(third), the use of well-preserved seed tubers ; (fourth), reasonably
heavy seeding ; (fifth), early planting, in a sheltered situation if
possible ; (sixth), stimulation of the plants by high feeding and
high cultivation to induce rapid development ; (seventh), digging
and marketing j ust as soon as the tubers are in merchantable
condition.

GARDEN CULTURE. — Early in spring the ground is thoroughly
plowed and harrowed, and the furrows marked out with a one-
horse plow, 2*4 or 3 feet apart. Market gardeners, following
their natural instincts and habits of close planting, usually have
the rows 2l/2 feet apart. I find it more convenient for cultivation
to make them for early sorts at same distance as for the late ones,
3 feet apart. If any fertilizer is applied in the bottom of the
furrows — say a dressing of fine compost, wood ashes, hen manure,
or " special potato manure," it is well mixed with the soil, and the
latter at the same time nicely pulverized, by running a shovel-
plow once or twice along in each furrow. On a small scale this
may be accomplished by plying the hand hoe.

The seed pieces are then dropped 10 or 12 inches apart in
the furrows, and covered about two inches deep with the hoe.
Some good special potato fertilizer may now be scattered along
the rows above the covered seed pieces, say at the rate of from
400 to 800 Ibs. per acre; and if the land is not rich in accumu-
lated plant food, a small dressing of nitrate of soda, broadcast,
will assist in bringing out an early and thrifty growth of foliage.
The cultivator (Planet Jr., or a similar narrow-bladed wheel-hoe)
should be used very freely ; and as the plants grow, the furrows
are filled up level with the surface. Hilling is neither required
nor beneficial. The old style of ridging by means of a winged

240 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

shovel-plow is out of date ; but the soil must be kept well stirred
and mellow until the plants cover the ground. When the tops
begin to die, or even sooner, the crop is ready for digging, and
if the price is acceptable, should be marketed at once, since prices
are usually declining very rapidly just at that time.

FIELD CULTURE. — The market gardener, on account of his
larger yields and the better prices he receives, can well afford
to take more pains with his crop ; and so can the home grower,

who will hardly miss the
few hours he spends on his
patch plying the hoe. In
growing potatoes for main
(late) crop, however, with
the prospect of continued
low prices for an average
crop before us, we are forced
to adopt a more economical
system, especially in the
employment of labor. The
work must be done almost
exclusively with horse and
Early Sunrise. machine, and without call-

ing on hand hoes and spading forks or potato hooks for assistance.
Thus it is yet possible, even at the present low average prices, to
make the crop one of the most profitable for the farm in favor-
able locations.

A young, rich clover field, as already stated, is undoubtedly
a superior selection for a site. In regard to the application of
manures, I confess we are as yet
quite ignorant. A number of
ways are open to us, namely :
(i) to apply the compost or
fertilizers broadcast and plow it
in; or, (2) to broadcast them
after plowing and simply harrow
them in ; or, (3) to put the fertil-
izing material into the bottom of
the furrows under the seed ; or,
(4) to scatter it over the lightly
covered seed. Myself and other
people have made various tests to find out which of these
methods will give us the best results ; but the outcome thus far
has been of a rather negative character, and I believe the conclu-
sion is justified that the mode of application is of far less influence
upon the yield than the quantity of fertilizer. The indications,
also, are that fertilizer applied above the seed usually gives
slightly better returns than when applied in the bottom of the

Chas. Downing.

Cultural Directions. — 241

furrow before planting. My own practice — satisfactory to myself
— is to spread the compost, if any is applied, evenly over the field
before plowing ; but to apply only half of the fertilizer broadcast,
either before or after plowing, and to scatter the other half over
the rows above the covered seed pieces.

I believe in planting early, say one or two weeks before the
customary time for planting field corn. But it can also be done
later in the season, and even up to July, provided that good seed
is on hand. To preserve seed tubers until that time in best con-
dition, they may be spread thinly upon the floor in a well-lighted
room, or kept in cold storage until wanted for planting.

Size of seed pieces and distance of placing them in the drills
depend somewhat on local conditions. Some growers report
good results from planting single-eye pieces rather close. I
have never been able to raise a full crop from single eyes, or
small seed pieces generally ; and in order to insure a chance
for a good crop, always find myself obliged to resort to pretty
heavy seeding. When plant-
ing time approaches, plow
the ground 8 or 10 inches
deep, or at least to the whole
depth of the surface soil, if
this be less. Fall plowing
is seldom of much benefit
except on heavier soils ;
neither is double or cross-
plowing. Mellow the ground
thoroughly by means of one
of our modern deep-cutting
harrows (Cutaway, disk, etc.) *°' l'

and drill in the seed by means of an Aspinwall, or other good
potato planter, in rows 3 feet apart, and 12 to 18 inches apart
in the rows. Of course, the potato planter is usually available
only to large operators; and where the planting has to be
done by hand, furrows must be laid out with a single-horse
plow, 4 inches deep and 3 feet apart, and the seed, consisting
of good-sized pieces, or whole small or medium-sized tubers,
deposited at intervals of 12 to 18 inches in the bottom of the
furrow.

In most cases, especially when the soil is not as mellow as
it might be, the treatment of the furrows, which has recently
become famous as the " Rural (New Yorker) trench system,"
will be found to give good results. It consists in mellowing up
the soil in the bottom of these furrows very thoroughly, either
by means of a common shovel-plow, going at least twice in each
furrow, or by devices constructed for the purpose, such as I
hope will be invented before long and put on sale in every

242 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

hardware store. This is done in order to give to the roots
of the vines, and to the tubers also, the best possible chance for
development.

The seed is to be covered with about two inches of soil, and
this should be firmed in same manner as other seed, best by
setting the foot firmly and squarely upon each piece. The
fertilizer is then scattered along in the half-filled trenches, and
this finishes the planting.

Cultivation should be begun within a week. I have never
found a method of cultivating the potato field during its earlier
stages more effectual, cheaper and easier than by the early,
thorough, and repeated use of a Thomas' smoothing harrow.

It gives us every advantage without a single drawback. The
first harrowing, shortly after planting, had better be given in the
direction of the rows ; the next one four or five days after, across
the rows; and one or two more, at intervals of four or five days

each, in the same way. This
treatment renders the surface
smooth and even, mellows and
pulverizes the soil thoroughly,
and so utterly discourages the
weeds, that they will not
venture to show themselves
for a long time. Now the
young plants have probably
grown several inches high ;
and the cultivator (Planet Jr.,
for instance) must take the
place of the harrow. In the
manipulation of the cultivator,
we aim to crowd the row at
the right-hand pretty closely, and going twice between the same
two rows, stir the entire surface of the soil without leaving
anything for the hand hoe to do. Cultivation is kept up until
the vines cover the ground.

DIGGING, HARVESTING AND STORING. — In clean, mellow soil
our modern potato diggers do good service. Where none is avail-
able, a common one-horse plow (or a shovel-plow) often answers
very well. Small patches may be dug with a potato hook, or a
digging fork, or even a common hand hoe. If dug by machine
or plow, the ground, after the crop is picked up, can be harrowed
over with the smoothing harrow, thus bringing the few tubers,
that had been covered up and hidden, into sight for gathering.
The tubers may be left on the ground for a short time, and
are then gathered in box-crates holding a bushel each, and thus
drawn to market, cellar, root-house, or pit. The simplest,
cheapest, and generally most satisfactory manner of storing for

Cultural Directions. — 243

wintering over, next to that in root cellar, is in pits, provided the
potatoes are covered up when cool, and protected sufficiently to
keep them from contact with frost.

VARIETIES.

The most sensible way of classifying
our hundreds of potato varieties, it seems
to me, would be by bringing them under
the head of types or families — Early Rose
type, Burbank type, Beauty of Hebron
type, Peerless type, etc. — The following
list includes the leading sorts :

Early Ohio. — Yet the earliest good
sort with which I am acquainted. Needs
high culture, and is emphatically a garden
potato ; especially valuable for the market
garden. Cooks dry and mealy even before
fully ripe. Quality best. Keeps well, much
better than its parent, the Early Rose.

Early Sunrise. — Another seedling of
Early Rose, much resembling it, but con-
siderably earlier. Good for home and
market garden.

The People's. — A promising new
seedling. In shape it is oblong to
round; flesh, white; eyes, shallow; tubers
remarkably large and handsome, of great
uniformity. They cook dry and mealy.
Mature about the same time as the Empire
State.

White Prize. — A very smooth, hand-
some potato and a great yielder. Flesh,
white; and always cooks dry and mealy.

The Potentate. — This fine new variety
originated in Iowa. It is a fine keeper, and
claimed to resist rot better than most other
sorts

The Chas. Downing. —A very early
and promising variety of recent intro-
duction. An excellent table sort, as it
equals the well-known Snowflake in
quality.

The Polaris. — A new extra early of
unusual promise. It is of oblong shape,
white skin; eyes few and shallow, always
cooks dry and mealy. Matures a week ahead of either the
Early Rose or Beauty of Hebron,

244 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Badger State. — Originated by Mr. Huebner, of Wisconsin.
It promises to make a place for itself at the top of the list. Of
large size, oblong shape and firm skin. Proves to be an excellent
shipper.

Early Rose. — The well-known early market variety. So
many of its seedlings have been introduced in recent years,
and are being marketed under the name of " Early Rose," that
it may be difficult to procure the pure old variety under that
name.

Prince Edward Island Rose is being sent out as the well-
preserved old sort, and having retained all its original good
qualities.

Beauty of Hebron. — Equals the Rose in popularity as an
early market sort, and ripens at about the same season.

Clark's No. i. — An early sort of the Rose type.

Early Mayflower,

Early Maine,

Morning Star,

Beauty of Beauties,

Conqueror. — All these are worthy of trial.

Peerless. — An old sort, much grown for market, especially
in sandy soils ; very productive, but usually quoted lower than
other leading market sorts. Food for the south.

Mammoth Pearl,

Mammoth Prolific. — These are of the Peerless type, but
preferable to the old Peerless.

White Elephant. — A large, late and immensely productive
Beauty of Hebron ; of fine quality, and well thought of in
market.

Burbank. — The old standard market sort. Of Rose-shape,
and pure white color ; prolific ; a good keeper ; but of good
quality only when grown on light soils.

White Star. — Might be called an Improved Burbank, as it
resembles that sort in general appearance, but seems to be
superior to it in almost every respect. Now, next to the Rose,
the leading market sort.

Dakota Red. — A large prolific red sort, well thought of
in most localities.

Empire State. — Very promising ; superior in yield and
quality.

POTATO (SWEET).

Convolvulus Batatas. German, Batatc ; French, Patate
Douce ; Spanish, Batata — In sweet potatoes we have a most
important crop for the middle and southern states ; but one
which will hardly ever succeed in the short seasons north of New

Cultural Directions. — 245

York city, although by coddling a comparatively few plants, the
tubers can be brought to some size. The crop, however, will not
be a profitable one for market in such northern localities.

GROWING THE PLANTS. — To start the beds we need a good
strong hot-bed, although not as early in the season as for egg-
plants or even tomatoes. The manure is but lightly covered with
soil or sand, and the tubers are spread out in single layer, the
larger ones split in halves, cut-side down, as closely as possible
without overcrowding. The layer is then covered with 3 or 4
inches of sand. Water and ventilation have to be given as for
egg plants or peppers. In five or six weeks the first plants will
be large enough to sever from the seed tubers, which is accom-
plished by simply pulling them up. New plants continue to start,
and may be pulled, and planted out as they grow large enough.

GROWING THE CROP. — Warm, well-drained soil of medium fer-
tility is best. Rich soil is apt to produce too rank a growth of vines,
and make it almost impossible to prevent them from rooting all
over the ground, and thus wasting their energies in the formation
of large numbers of tubers too small for use, instead of concen-
trating them on the development of the tubers in the hill.

Mark out light furrows 4 feet apart, and fill them rounding
full with good manure, or scatter a liberal quantity (say 800
pounds or more per acre) of good special potato fertilizer in them.
Next with a one-horse plow throw a furrow to the manure
from each side of the row, forming a pretty good ridge, which is
to be smoothed nicely with the hoe, and thus got ready for
setting the plants. The proper time for doing this is when the
ground has become thoroughly warm, say from May I5th to
June 1 5th. Set the plants firmly on top of the ridge, about 24
inches apart, leaving them in the centre of a slight depression.
I need hardly repeat that the roots of the plants, just previous to
setting out, ought to be dipped in water. A half-pint of water
should also be poured into the depression around each plant.
Afterwards keep well cultivated and free from weeds, and occa-
sionally lift up the vines to detach them from the ground, where
they have begun to strike root between the hills and rows.

HARVESTING. — After the first light frost, the vines are to be
cut off close above the ground, and the roots carefully lifted out
by means of a spading fork. Great care is necessary in order to
avoid bruising the tubers. The latter may be left out on the
ground for a few hours to dry, and should then be stored in a dry
and warm loft. To keep well, they should not be exposed to much
change of temperature, or a lower temperature than 50 or 55

decrees Fahrenheit.

VARIETIES.

Yellow Nansemond. — The leading market sort in the
middle states. A red sort is now gaining in popularity.

346 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

PUMPKIN.

Cucurbita. German, Kurbiss ; French, Potiron ; Spanish,

Calabaza. — The cultivation
of pumpkins is the same as
described for squash, which
see. Have the hills about
12 feet apart each way, with
2 or 3 good plants in a hill.
Farmers generally plant
pumpkin seeds in the hills
with their corn, and often
have a large crop, both for
stock and for pies, in the
corn-field.

VARIETIES.

The following are excel-
lent for pies :

Japanese Pie. — This
new pumpkin originated in
Japan, and is said to surpass
every other variety in flavor.
Flesh is unusually fine
grained, and when cooked
is almost as dry and mealy
as a sweet potato. They
grow to a medium size ; are
very productive, and excel-
lent keepers.

Large Cheese,
Mammoth Etampes,
Potiron,
Yellow Sweet Potato, etc. — All these are popular sorts.

RADISH.

Raphanus Sativus. German, Radies (Rettig) ; French,
Radis ; Spanish, Rabanito. — Radishes are one of the chief
market garden crops for forcing under glass, and for
early outdoor culture, and so easily grown that there is
no need of giving lengthy directions. The whole crop can
often be produced and disposed of within thirty-five or forty
days from sowing seed, and, for this reason, it is often sown
between the rows of other vegetables that occupy the ground

Cultural Directions. — 247

for a longer period, but, starting slowly, give the radishes all the
opportunity needed to come to full size. In outdoor culture
broadcast sowing is not unfrequently practiced ; but it is a method
hardly worthy of consideration by good gardeners, and I neither
practice nor recommend it. For culture
under glass see the hints given in the
chapter::; on cold-frames and forcing-
houses. In open air culture, avoid new
manure and old ground, i. e.y ground on

Early Deep Scarlet Olive.

Earliest Deep Scarlet Turnip.

Mammoth Chinese.

which radishes, turnips, cabbages, and other plants of the same
family have been grown the year before. Stimulate growth by
light applications of nitrate of soda. In the market garden, to
save space, the rows can be crowded very closely together, 6
inches between them being ample; in the home garden we
usually plant twice that distance, or more, for convenience in
cultivation. In either case, however, it is a good practice to
utilize the space between widely planted crops — cabbages, beans,
etc. — when first set out or sown, by growing a row or two of
radishes between each two rows of the others. The great enemy
of this crop is the maggot, which often entirely ruins whole
patches. Rotation and avoidance of rank manure are our best
weapons. Don't neglect early thinning to make the crop
uniform.

VARIETIES.

These are divided in three classes, (i) early or forcing
radishes, (2) summer and autumn radishes, (3) winter radishes.

248 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

EARLY OR FORCING SORTS.

Earliest Deep Scarlet Turnip. — One of the very earliest.
I have had it fit for the table in less than twenty days after
sowing. Round, handsome, of bright color, and fine quality.

Early Erfurt. — Another extra early sort, and one of the very
best. Somewhat similar in general characteristics to the preceding.

Early White-Tipped Scarlet Turnip. — A handsome,
early, round sort, bright carmine in color with white at tip end.

Early White Turnip. — Roundish or flattened, white,
pungent

White Box is sent out as an improved White Turnip.

Early Deep Scarlet Olive. — Considered one of the best
and handsomest of the small or
forcing varieties. Flesh tender
and of mild flavor. Very early. .^^V.K^K™.,™.,,,

m

White Turnip.

French Breakfast. — Handsome and early, and quite
popular as an early market sort. Remains in condition fit for
table use but a few days after the bulbs or roots are fully formed,
hence it cannot be recommended for the home garden.

All these early varieties are suitable to be planted for
succession all through the season.

SUMMER AND AUTUMN VARIETIES.

Long Scarlet Short-Top. — A handsome second early,
long-rooted variety, suitable both for forcing and out-door culture.

Long Vienna,

White Ladyfinger. — Two fine, long, white sorts, of tender
flesh and superior flavor.

Large White Summer Turnip. — Grows to a large size,
and remains in condition fit for the table longer than most other
summer varieties.

Stuttgart Giant White Turnip. — Grows still larger than
the preceding, and in flavor and otherwise has many of the
characteristics of the winter varieties, and may be served in the
same manner.

Cultural Directions. — 249

Yellow Summer. — A good, strong, long-standing summer
variety with dark russety -yellow skin. Its flavor reminds of that
of winter radishes.

Golden Summer is introduced as an improved Yellow
Summer.

White Strassburg Summer. — One of the finest half-long
varieties, very productive, growing to large size ; skin and flesh
pure white ; of superior tenderness and quality.

1834. — Similar to the above, but of American origin.

Chartier. — One of the largest of this class, smooth, hand-
some, long roots ; somewhat late, and of considerable pungency
but crisp and tender when well-grown.

Chartier.

White Lady Finger. Long Scarlet.

WINTER VARIETIES.

China Rose Winter. — Early, handsome, tender, of some-
what sweetish flavor. Quite popular.

Black Spanish Winter Long. — Very black, flesh white,
firm, tender, pungent.

Large White Spanish Winter. — A quick grower, skin
and flesh white. Firm and pungent. A good keeper.

Large White Russian. — A mammoth in size, but lacking
in tenderness and crispness.

California Mammoth White Winter, Mammoth Chinese.
— Of very rapid growth, large, tender, and of mild flavor. I
prefer it to all other winter varieties.

250 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

RHUBARB.

Rheum Hybridum (Rhaponticum}. German, Rhabarber ,
French, Rhubarbe ; Spanish, Ruibarbo. — Rhubarb, or pie-plant,
is largely grown for market near all larger cities, and found in
almost every American home garden. It is usually propagated
by division of the roots, each eye or bud with a piece of the
fleshy root attached being capable of producing a large plant
within a year's time. It also grows readily from the seed, at a
year's delay in producing the crop. Plants grown from seed
also vary very largely in habit of growth. Seed is sown in drills,
12 or 15 inches apart, and the plants thinned to a few inches in the
drills. In fall or spring following they are to be set out in same
way as pieces of roots from older plants.

Select warm, well-drained soil, plow deeply, if possible
following with a subsoil plow, and mark out furrows four feet
apart each way. A few shovelfuls of rich compost should be
mixed with the soil at each intersection. Then set the plants
carefully and firmly, and from this time on keep the ground
cultivated and free from weeds. In spring following, the stalks
may be pulled freely. A plantation will last many years, but the
plants should be given a good dressing of rich compost every
year or two. Home gardeners sometimes place boxes, or kegs
with heads removed, over the hills in early spring, and by this
means produce extra long and tender growth of stalk.

For winter and early spring use, Rhubarb is often forced
in greenhouses and cold-frames, and usually with very fair profit.
The roots are taken up in the autumn, crowded together in boxes
or barrels with a little soil between them, and placed in any con-
venient place in the greenhouse (under the benches, for instance),
where they soon start into growth. For cold-frame culture the
roots are planted closely together in a deep frame in the autumn,
and covered with a heavy layer of dry forest leaves. In February
or March the leaves are removed, and the sashes put on. Forced
Rhubarb is usually more tender and succulent than that from
open ground.

VARIETIES.

Victoria, Wyatt's Victoria. — Stalks red, and very thick.
Leaves broad. Productive. Late.

Linnaeus, Wyatt's Linnaeus. — Stalks deep green, early.

ROSEMARY.

Rosmarinus Officinalis. German, Rosmarin ; French,
Romarin ; Spanish, Romero. — A shrub-like perennial, the leaves
of which are used for seasoning. Propagated from seed, or

Cultural Directions. — 251

more generally from division of the root-stock. A tuft or two of
it planted in any convenient, well-drained spot, will furnish all a
family may possibly want, without requiring further attention.

RUE.

Ruta Graveolens. German, Rante ; French, Rue. — The
leaves of this little perennial shrub, although bitter and very
pungent, are nevertheless sometimes used for seasoning. Plants
are easily grown from seed, or from division of the tufts. Set
the plants 20 or 24 inches apart each way in well-drained but
rather moist soil. Little or no further attention is required.

SAGE.

Salvia Officinalis. German, Salbei ;
French, Sauge ; Spanish, Salvia. — A perennial
shrub of easiest culture, the leaves of which
are largely used for seasoning sausages, meat,
etc. Readily propagated from seed as well
as by layering. Sow seed in early spring in
drills, in well-drained soil. The plants will
last for many years without requiring much
attention. It is largely grown for market as
a second crop. The Broad Leaved is an
improved variety.

Sage.

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT.

Tragopogon Porrifolium. German, Haferwurzel ; French,
Salsifis ; Spanish, Salsifi. — It is only recently
that people have begun to like salsify, and to
cultivate it more generally. It is becoming so
important as a market crop that some market
gardeners near the large cities of the east now
grow acres of it.

CULTURE. — Seed is sown in spring in drills 12
inches apart, and the plants thinned to 3 or 4 inches
apart in the rows. The soil should be rich and
well prepared, and kept well cultivated and hoed
during the growing season. The crop may be dug
late in the fall, and stored away like other root
crops for use during the winter. Frost improves
its flavor. That part of the crop which is intended
for spring use, may safely be left in the ground
over winter, and only at the extreme north it
may be necessary to draw a little soil over the rows for winter
protection.

252 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

VARIETIES.

Until recently only one variety was catalogued, sometimes
under the name of White French. Three years ago a much
larger sort was introduced as Mammoth Sandwich Island.
This is so much more productive, and generally so superior to
the old sort, that we have no further use for the latter.

SAVORY (SUMMER).

Satureia Hortensis. German, Bohnenkraut ; French, Sar-
riette (annuelle) ; Spanish, Ajedrea. — The leaves of this bushy
annual are frequently used for seasoning. Sow
seed in spring in good, warm soil, and keep free
from weeds. Sometimes grown for market as a
second crop.

SAVORY (WINTER).

Satureia Montana. German, Winter Bohn-
enkraut; French, Sarnetta (vivace) ; Spanish,
Hisopillo. — A small perennial shrub, the leaves
of which are used in same manner as those of
the summer savory. Seed may be sown in
spring in any convenient, well-drained spot

Savory.

where the plants are to remain. They need very little attention.

SCORZONERA.

Scorzonera Hispanica. German, Schwarzw urzel ; French,
Scorsonere ; Spanish, Escorzonera. — A perennial, cultivated either
as annual or biennial, exactly like Salsify, with this difference
that the roots, if left in the ground, will continue to grow in size
and to remain fit for use. Used like salsify, but grown in
America only to a very limited extent.

SEA-KALE.

Crambe Maritima. German, Metrkohl ;
French, Crambe; Spanish, Soldanella ;
Maritima. — Sea-Kale is found in very few
American gardens. When well-grown, it
makes such an excellent dish that it is well
worth the trouble required to raise it.
Propagated both from seed and root cut-
tings. Make the soil very rich and mellow.
Then plant a few seeds, or a four-inch piece
of root, in hills, three feet apart each way,
and keep well cultivated and free from weeds.

Sea-Kale.
If more than one

plant grows from the seed, all but the strongest are pulled up as

Cultural Directions. — 253

soon as the one remaining has attained sufficient size. At
the extreme north the crowns must be protected during winter
by a covering of leaves or litter. The second season from
root cuttings, or the third season from seed, the plants are strong
enough to yield a supply. To make sea-kale fit for use, it has
to be blanched. For this purpose the crowns must be covered
in early spring with sand or muck, to the depth of at least
twelve inches; or an inverted flower pot, with hole in bottom
entirely stopped up, be placed over each crown, and further
covered with leaves or dry soil. The bed will last quite a
number of years, but should be manured with good compost
every fall or spring.

SHALLOT.

Allium Ascalonicum. Ger-
man, Schalotte ; French, Echa-
lote ; Spanish, Chalote. — Used
to some extent as a °ubstitute
for green onions in early spring.
Tht bulbs are usually divided
and planted in early autumn, in
rows one foot apart, and five
or six inches apart in the row.
Perfectly hardy, and coming
earlier than onions, they are
often quite a profitable crop for
market. Shallot.

SORREL (BROAD-LEAVED).

Rumex Acetosa. German, Sauerampfer ;
French, Osei/te.—Used to a limited extent
r soups and salads. Usually grown from
'seed, which is sown in early spring in good
soil, having rows one foot apart. Thin the
plants to stand five or six inches apart in the
rows. The leaves are the part used. Cut
out the seed-stalk, as soon as it appears.

SPINACH.

Spinacca Oleracea. German, Spinat ; French, Epinarct ;
Spanish, Espinaca. — In spinach we have a most important market
garden crop, valuable alike for open air culture and for forcing
under glass. There is hardly a time during the entire year that
spinach could not be produced, or find ready sale in the city
markets. Southern truck farmers grow it quite extensively as

Sorrel.

254 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

an early spring crop for shipping to the north. Within reason-
able distance from New York city and Philadelphia spinach is
largely grown in cold-frames and forcing houses, and usually
affords the grower very fair returns. For fuller information on
this point see the respective chapters.

As early in spring as we can get the ground in working
order, we begin outdoor culture by sowing seed in drills in the
usual way, and in very rich and well-prepared soil. Nitrate of
soda, applied in small and repeated doses, tends to produce large fol-
iage. Use the hand wheel-hoe freely, and keep the ground free from
weeds. When ready for gathering, run a sharp scuffle or push hoe
along the rows under the plants, thus cutting them off close to
the ground. They are then picked up, freed from dead and
decaying leaves, and washed clean, when they are ready for use
or market. For longer distances, spinach is usually packed in
barrels, having openings in bottom and sides. In many market

gardens spinach is sown
as a secondary or auxiliary
crop between rows of early
cabbages, etc. It comes
off in time to give the cab-
bages the needed space.
For fall market, seed is
sown in August, for win-
ter and earliest spring
crops, in September and
early October. Make the
land very rich, using the
best of compost freely. Top dressings of poultry manure and
nitrate of soda seldom fail to increase the yield largely, and some-
times immensely.

Plant in drills one foot apart, using seed very freely (twelve
or fifteen pounds to the acre), and firming it very thoroughly.
At this time of the year it is often so hot and dry, that seeds
refuse to germinate, unless extra precaution is taken in sowing.
Keep the ground well cultivated and free from weeds. Should
the plants come very thick, they may be thinned late in October
or in November, and the thinnings used or sold. The main
crop usually winters over without loss, but in exposed situations
should be lightly covered with coarse litter or leaves. The crop
is cut and marketed in early spring.

VARIETIES.

We have now quite a number of varieties, varying slightly
in habit of growth, and formation of leaf.

Round- Leaf. — Very popular with market gardeners on
account of its great hardiness,

Cultural Directions. — 255

Long-Standing Summer. — Closely resembles the Round-
Leaf, but runs to seed a week or more later. For this reason it
is decidedly preferable, especially also for the home garden.

Thick- Leaved. — An old market sort, both for spring and
fall sowing.

Viroflay is said to be a more productive strain of this.

Savoy-Leaved. — Leaf somewhat curly, reminding of the
Savoy Cabbages. I do not see in it any merits above those of
other sorts.

Prickly. — So named from the prickly character of its
seeds.

SUBSTITUTES. — Various plants are now used as substitutes
for spinach, among them the following :

New Zealand Spinach, Tetragonia expansa. — An annual
with spreading stem, and thick, heavy leaves. Seeds large and
prickly. Stands the summer heat* remarkably well, and is
therefore frequently used in place of spinach during June, July
and August, or in very hot and dry locations.

Orache, Atriplex Hortensis. — Annual with broad, arrow-
shaped leaves; stands the heat remarkably well, but succeeds
best in rich, moist soil. Otherwise treated like spinach.

Sprouts. — Much grown at the south for home and northern
markets. See Kale.

Strawberry Elite, Blitum Capitatum. — An annual weed,
extremely hardy, and sometimes recommended as a substitute for
winter spinach at the extreme north. When loaded with its
bright-red, berry-like fruit in spring, it is quite ornamental.

SQUASH.

Cucurbita. German, Speise Kurbiss ; French, Courge,
Potiron ; Spanish, Calabaza. — Their rank growth and demands
for space exclude squashes from the market garden, but they can
usually be made a profitable crop for'
the truck farm. All squashes thrive
best in a warm, highly-enriched soil
and in a warm location. An old pas-
ture or clover field is one of the best
selections. Apply good compost lib-
erally, plow and harrow well, and plant
after the weather has become thor- Summer Crookneck.
oughly settled and the ground warm.

Striped bugs are usually so destructive to the young plants,
that it is frequently considered the only safe way to start plants
on inverted sods under glass in April or May, in same manner as
described for Lima beans, and afterwards plant out in the open
field, Mark out rows four feet apart each way for the bush or

256 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

summer sorts, and eight to twelve feet each way for the running
or winter • varieties, and mix three or four shovelfuls of rich
compost with the soil at each intersection ; then plant a dozen

seeds, or set a sod with plants in slightly
raised hills. Afterwards cultivate and
.hoe frequently, always drawing some
fresh soil up to the plants. Pull up all
but two or three of the most vigorous
plants, and continue fighting the cucum-
ber beetle and squash bug. Also guard
against the attacks of the squash borer.
Covering the first one or two joints, after
the vines have begun to run, should never
be neglected. The summer varieties are
gathered and marketed while young and
yet tender. The winter sorts must be
harvested before frost, and marketed in
bulk or in barrels. If carefully handled
H TV j and stored in a dry room, like sweet

potatoes, they may be kept until spring.
Winter squashes thus kept can generally be marketed during
winter or spring at prices that make the crop a very profitable
one.

SUMMER VARIETIES (C. Pepo).

White Scallop, White Bush,

Yellow Scallop, Yellow Bush. — These are leading sorts
for market, differing only in color of the skin.

Summer Crookneck. — Quite popular, especially for the
home garden.

Brazilian Sugar. — A running variety, fine for late summer
and fall. Prolific and of superior quality.

WINTER VARIETIES (C. Maxima).

Hubbard. — The leading market variety. Fruit dark green,
sometimes marked with red. Unexcelled for quality, and as a
keeper.

Marblehead. — Similar to Hubbard, except in color, which
is ashy-gray.

Boston Marrow. — Much grown for market, and highly
prized for quality.

Prolific Marrow has been introduced as an improvement
on Boston Marrow. Both are fine autumn sorts.

Sibley, Pike's Peak. — A new introduction, highly recom-
mended.

Bay State. — Another new sort of great promise.

Cultural Directions. — 257

Olive. — Fruit of medium size, elongated. Vine remarkably
vigorous.

Essex Hybrid. — Fruit thick, almost cylindrical ; of salmon
pink color.

Red China. — A beautiful fruit of recent introduction. Its
bright color makes it especially attractive, and desirable for the
home garden.

Chestnut,

Perfect Gem,

Cocoanut. — Three vigorous growing varieties with small
but numerous fruits. Quality good. Vines seem to be as hardy
as those of the bush sorts. Worthy a place in the home garden.

No. i, White Bush. No. 3, Marblehead.

No. 2, Boston Marrow. No. 4, Cocoanut.

Yokohama. — A variety of Cucurbita moschata, from Japan,
of most rampant growth, and fully as hardy as the summer
sorts ; also apparently less subject to injury from bug attacks.
Fruit flattened, of very dark green color, deeply lobed or ribbed.
Quality good.

THYME.

Thymus Vulgaris. German, Thymian;
French, Thym ; Spanish, Tomillo. — A small
perennial shrub, the leaves and young shoots of
which are often used for seasoning. Generally
raised from seed sown in April in permanent
bed and border, or to be transplanted to the
permanent patch. For market, near large cities,
it is grown as a second crop, planted out in June
or July, in rows one foot apart.

Broad-leaved is the only variety in profit- Thyme,
able cultivation.

258 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

TOMATO.

Solanum Lycopersicum. German, Liebesapfel ; French and
Spanish, Tomate. — In many sections of this country, tomatoes are
a leading farm crop, and grown almost more extensively than
potatoes. The market garden has little use for them, except as
an early or a forcing crop ; for this vegetable, to do its best, requires
more space than high feeding and high cultivation. With good
plants to start with, tomatoes are one of the easiest crops to
grow where the climate is warm enough to bring the fruit to
maturity.

GROWING THE PLANTS. — It is of especial importance to start
the plants early (not later than in March) in hot-bed or green-
house, in order to get an early crop. Give the plants all the
space they need for full development, during every stage of
growth, in order to make them stocky ; then harden them off
thoroughly before their transfer to the open ground.

CULTURE. — To give the best results, tomatoes require the
soil in a. fair state of fertility ; but the richer it is, the wider
should the plants be set, 4 feet square usually being the very

Dwarf Champion. Turner Hybrid. Trophy.

least distance, except perhaps for some of the very dwarf sorts.
Keep the crop cultivated and hoed, same as a good farmer
would his corn.

WINTER FORCING. — For forcing the crop in greenhouse,
plants may be obtained by rooting cuttings of old plants in the
fall, then planting out in beds in greenhouse, or in large pots or
boxes, giving each plant a space of about 2 ^ or 3 feet each way. All
laterals are removed and the main stalks tied to stakes, or wires,
or strings. During the time of fruit-setting the atmosphere
inside of the building has to be kept dry. This is sometimes ac-
complished by cementing the bottom, and placing kegs or boxes
with pulverized dry charcoal or freshly-burned lime about the
house. Attention must also be paid to secure proper fertilization
(fecundation) by striking lightly against the wires, stakes or
strings, from time to time, in order to scatter the pollen-dust

Cultural Directions. — 259

ENEMIES, MARKETING, ETC. — The potato stalk-borer some-
times attacks the tomato vines, and the green tomato-worm the
foliage. Both enemies, when appearing, should be hunted up
and destroyed. Tomato rot and blight appears very destructive
in some localities, and the proper precautions, of which " wide "
rotation is safest, must be taken. The far-
mer and market gardener can hardly afford
to stake or train his thousands of plants;
neither is this of any special benefit. It is
different in the home garden, where a few
plants, nicely trained, can easily be made an
interesting and attractive feature of the
vegetable patch. A simple way of training
the plants is by single stake. Set the stake
at time of sotting the plant, and keep the Strawber~ Tomato.
latter tied up from the very beginning.

In packing for distant market, be sure to send only nice, smooth
specimens, and sort out all the rough and otherwise faulty ones.

VARIETIES.

Our list now includes a large amount of most excellent sorts,
and if I were restricted to a single one, I would hardly know which
to choose. Leaving a few early dwarfish sorts out of considera-
tion, there is but little difference between all our really good
varieties so far as earliness and productiveness are concerned.
They vary greatly in color, size, shape, solidity, as well as habit
of growth, and character of foliage.

Dwarf Champion. — One of the best for the home garden
and for early market. Fruit of purplish color, fair size, solid,
smooth and uniform. Vine of remarkably stiff and compact
growth; foliage heavy, of dark bluish-green. Earlier than other
standard sorts, but fruit holds out well to the end of the season,
and specimens seem to grow larger as the season advances. Can
be planted as close as 3 feet each way, and if staked when first
set out, will be apt to remain in an upright position right
through.

Earliest Advance,

Early King,

Atlantic Prize. — These three sorts somewhat resemble each
other, in so far as they are of dwarfish but spreading growth,
lacking in vigor and productiveness, but will bring the bulk of
fruit to maturity much earlier than the other varieties that have
value for market. Fruit only of medium size and not exces-
sively solid. Should be given high culture.

Matchless. — This new tomato is certainly matchless in
form, regularity of growth, and desirable shipping qualities.

260 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

Fruit very free from core ; in color, a rich cardinal red, and less
liable to crack in wet weather than any other large tomato. It
is good every way.

Trophy. — An old favorite on account of superior solidity
and quality of fruit, which, however, is not always smooth.

Acme. — A popular sort for early market. Of purplish
color; round, smooth, solid and productive.

Beauty seems to be an improvement on it.

Paragon,

Perfection,

Favorite,

Mayflower,

Cardinal. — All these are excellent for market and canning
factory use, varying but slightly in their leading characteristics.
Fruit large-sized, red, smooth, solid.

Turner Hybrid, Mikado. — Mammoth in plant, foliage, fruit,
and productiveness, but fruit not always smooth.

Potato Leaf Tomato.

Potato-Leaf. — Similar in habit of growth and foliage to
the preceding ; fruit of good size, purple color, and uniformly
smooth. One of the best for home use or early market.

Essex Hybrid,

Volunteer,

Optimus, and many others might be named that prove to
be good and reliable sorts for all purposes.

Golden Queen. — One of the best of the yellow sorts.

Peach. — Quite distinct. Foliage much serrated and deli-
cate. Fruit small, fine color and shape, growing in clusters.
More interesting than practically useful, however.

Lorillard. — Superior for forcing, but also does well in
open air. Fruit early, large, smooth and solid.

Strawberry Tomato (Alkekengi), Phy salts. — Fruits yel-
low, of size of cherry, growing enclosed in a husk ; of sweetish,
fruity flavor. Sometimes grown for preserves. The plant, when
once grown, is apt to reproduce itself year after year from self-
sown seed.

Cultural Directions. — 261

TURNIPS.

Brassica napa (campestris). German, Steckrube, Kohlrube ;
French, Navet ; Spanish, Nabo. — The market gardener has but
little use and room for turnips, except to a limited extent for the
early flat varieties, which are grown and marketed in the same
manner as early beets. The ground is made very rich by applica-
tions of thoroughly-rotted compost, supplemented, if convenient,
with some good, plain superphosphate strewn in the drills, and
seed sown as early in spring as the soil can be got *in readi-
ness, in drills 15 inches apart, using seed at the rate of two
pounds per acre, and firming the soil in the often recommended
manner.

CULTIVATION, ETC. — Use the wheel-hoe as needed, and thin
the plants, when danger from flea beetle injury is past, to 2 or 3
inches. When the roots are about 2 inches in diameter, pull,
trim, wash and bunch for market.

TURNIPS AS FARM CROP. — These turnips are of still greater
importance as a fall crop for the farm. Sometimes they find

ready sale at very acceptable prices for
table use, during late autumn and win-
ter, but usually the swedes or rutabagas,

I nproved Purple Top Swede. Extra Early Milan.

with their richer flavor, are grown for this purpose in preference
to the quicker-growing flat turnips.

As a crop for stock feeding this vegetable is not yet appre-
ciated to its full value by the average farmer. I have not yet
seen the farm where suitable pieces of land are not annually
available for turnip growing in the latter part of the season,
and after the main crop is removed- An early potato field,
an old strawberry patch, a pasture lot, etc., after the crop
is harvested in July or August, may yet produce many hundreds
of bushels of flat turnips (or of rutabagas either, if early enough)
per acre the same season, with very little labor and trouble.
Being easily wintered, they will materially aid in carrying stock
through the winter in good condition, and with a saving of grain.

262 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

But even if such land should not be available, the farmer
can at least provide fora superior lot of fall feed, just when
pastures are short, by scattering the seed of the flat turnips all

Extra Early Munich.

over his corn fields immediately after the last working. The
turnip crop will make its best growth after the corn is cut, and
entirely cover the ground with foliage and crisp roots — alike
acceptable to cattle, sheep, and hogs. Here the simple expense
for a few pounds of seed, without any other trouble besides the
little effort it takes to scatter it, will greatly add to the aggregate
income of the farm.

RUTABAGAS. — The rutabagas or Swede turnips are quite an
important crop for the farm garden ; but while the flat varieties

in the latitude of Philadelphia will give a crop even if sown as
late as the middle or end of August, the rutabagas must go into
the ground 4 or 6 weeks earlier. The drills should not be less

Cultural Directions. — 263

than 1 8 inches apart, and the plants be thinned to 6 or 8 inches
The same cultivation and attention to weeds is required as for
other crops of similar character. Gather before settled cold
weather; trim off the tops, and ship in barrels, or store as directed
for other root crops.

VARIETIES — FLAT EARLY SORTS.

Extra Early Milan. — Earliest of all, and just the variety
for early bunching. In general appearance like Red-Top Strap-
Leaf, only smaller and earlier.

Extra Early Munich resembles this very closely, perhaps
a few days later and less reliable than the Extra Early Milan.

Red-Top Strap- Leaf.— The
old reliable fall turnip, flat, white
with red or purplish top. Red-
Top White Globe is introduced as
a round, consequently more pro-
ductive sort of this type.

Early Flat Dutch. — A fine
white garden turnip, resembling
Red-Top in shape.

White Egg. — Of egg shape
and quite handsome and productive.

Large White Norfolk.— Valu-
able for stock.

Among other sorts worthy of
planting, we have

Cow Horn,

Large Yellow Globe,

Yellow Aberdeen,

Jersey Lily, etc.

White Rock.

VARIETIES OF RUTABAGAS OR SWEDES.

Improved Purple Top Swede — Of fine quality, prolific,
reliable.

Maule's Heavy Cropping. — An extra good sort.

Sutton's Champion. — Very productive.

White Rock.

Hardy Imperial.

Large Wttite French, and others.

CHAPTER XXIX.

STRAWBERRY CULTURE.

IN THE HOME AND MARKET GARDEN.
" And it was called the Queen of Fruits."

'O work on vegetable and market gardening could
justly be called complete if it had refused to
take notice of the strawberry and its culture,
not only because this is the most luscious, the
most desired and desirable, indeed the queen,
of all fruits, and indispensable in any well-
regulated home garden — coveted alike by young
and old, a most enjoyable luxury, and a most
potent medicine at the same time — but also because it often fits
so admirably in the crop rotation of the market garden. The
skilled market gardener, who retails his own garden stuff to local
or near-by customers, always finds it a most useful crop, which
adds many dollars to the cash receipts during a period of two or
three weeks annually, without requiring extra time to dispose of
it. A single crate of berries, occupying but a few square feet of
room on the wagon, and adding comparatively little weight to
the load, will sell quickly along with the other products, and
increase the day's sales by $3 or $4. This, however, is true also
of raspberries, blackberries, and all other small fruits. Indeed,
I think the grower for local market can generally combine
vegetable gardening and small fruit growing to the best
advantage.

During the entire strawberry season we usually find the
city markets abundantly supplied with this fruit — such as it
is — poor, coated with dust, jammed, ill-looking, and anything
but inviting to people who are used to getting them fresh from the
garden, in all their prime and glory. I have never been tempted
to buy the average fruit as I saw it on the market stands of the
cities. It averages poor, and so, usually and deservedly, does
the price, which the grower realizes for them.

On the other hand, really first-class fruit — large, even, fresh,
packed neatly in attractive and clean packages — is rare, and
always in good demand at paying prices. The premium here is
on superiority. There is no overproduction of fine berries, and
I do not think there ever will be. Large, well-colored, perfect
264

Strawberry Culture.— 265

berries have always been scarce, always commanded good prices,
and consequently always proved profitable to the producer, and
to the dealer as well. Like the onion among vegetables, so the
strawberry among fruits is the great money crop for the skillful
grower, but a source of annoyance, disappointment, and even
loss to the shiftless manager.

The chief aim of the grower must be directed towards
growing fine berries, picking them when just right, and bringing
them to market in best possible shape. Mr. John Burdett who
lives seventeen miles from Buffalo, and is known to fruit growers
as the originator of the " Long John " strawberry, a particularly
prolific sort, equaling the Wilson in its best characteristics, picks
his berries very early in the morning (from 3 to 7 A. M.), grades
and arranges them, all of uniform size and appearance in each
package, upon fancy plates or in fancy baskets ; takes his morn-
ing's product to Buffalo, on train at 8 A. M., and delivers this
fancy article at fancy fruit stores an hour later — only a few hours
after they came from the patch — and always receives 25 or 30
cents a quart for them. As he is the only one furnishing this class
of goods, and only in limited quantities at that, he virtually controls
the market, and gets his own price for his fancy article.

SOIL. — In the selection of soil for strawberries I would give
a deep, well-drained clay loam the preference, although a good
crop can be grown on any soil adapted for the production of a
good crop of corn. The lay and composition of the land has a
great influence upon the season of ripening. Among the chief
factors favoring earl iness of crop are sandy composition of soil,
porous subsoil, south-eastern exposure, and selection of early
varieties; while the following conditions, viz., muck or clay soil,
clay subsoil, north or north-western exposure, heavy mulch left
on until late in spring, and selection of late varieties, tend to
make the crop a very late one. The market gardener who has a
variety of soils and situations may make such selections and
combinations which suit his particular purpose. By proper selec-
tion of conditions, the berry season can be greatly lengthened, or
the bulk of crop ripened in just such season as the market may
be expected to be most favorable.

Old sod should be avoided, as it is usually infested with
white grubs (the larvae of the May beetle), and with other
insect enemies. Nothing will fit a piece of ground so nicely for
planting to strawberries, as cropping for a year or two with
onions, beets, carrots, or other close-planted vegetables, which need
high manuring and thorough cultivation, and leave the land in a
high state of fertility, and reasonably free from weeds.

MANURING. — Really fine strawberries can only be grown on
fertile soil, and poor ones are hardly worth growing. Too much
manure cannot well be applied, although an overdose is not

266 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

necessary. Well decomposed stable manure is always a reliable
fertilizer, provided it is free from weed seeds, and if we only have
enough of such, we have no reason to look for anything else.
Under no circumstances use manure liable to befoul the land
with weeds, as the latter are the great curse of the strawberry
grower. I believe it is easier to grow a good crop of onions on
weedy land (although not an enjoyable task) than to keep a
strawberry patch clean when once well stocked with weeds. The
latter invariably interfere very seriously with the strawberry crop.

On fairly good soil I have had most excellent success with
concentrated commercial fertilizers. They have the advantage
of being free from weed seeds, and may be used alone, or in
combination with smaller quantities of stable compost. They
also lessen the dangers from fungus diseases, and make a firmer
and better berry than the stable manure alone.

Potash fertilizers are of especial benefit to all fruit crops,
and I would recommend, as a good, safe ration for strawberries
on most soils, 400 pounds of muriate of potash and from 6, o to
1000 pounds of bone-meal per acre. Wood ashes, especially if
unleached, are also a most excellent manure for strawberries,
being rich in the mineral plant foods, particularly in potash — the
one substance most urgently needed.

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. — The roots of strawberries go
down deeply into the ground without spreading a great deal.
Consequently the soil must be loosened up deeply. Stable
manure, if applied, is to be plowed in. The use of a good sub-
soil plow, after the common plow, is always advisable, and time
spent in cross-plowing and in thorough harrowing is always well
employed. If ashes and concentrated fertilizers are used, they
should be put on the surface after plowing, and then thoroughly
mixed with the soil by means of a Disk harrow, cultivator, or hoe.
If soil is lumpy, roller or Meeker harrow may be brought
into use. In short, no means should be neglected by which the
desired mellowness and smooth surface of the soil can be secured.
The next thing is to mark out furrows four feet apart, either with
a corn-marker or a one-horse plow, taking particular pains to run
them straight and even.

QUALITY OF PLANTS. — Early fall, or even summer, is the time
usually selected for planting strawberries in the southern states.
At the north we oftener prefer to plant in spring, unless we have
a chance to get good plants — the first runners made after the
fruiting season — not later than August. If these plants are " pot
grown," or taken up with a clump of soil, they may be expected
to do all the better.

The quality of the plants influences the result, both immed-
iate and permanent, very materially. I believe in " pedigree "
with strawberry plants as well as with vegetable seeds, or with

Pot Grown Plant.

Strawberry Culture. — 267

live-stock. If the first, most vigorous runners from young
vigorous plants that have not yet been weakened by fruiting, are
used, and this method of propagation is continued for some time,
the strain will be improved, and stock of such strain is likely to
give better results than the later, and
less vigorous runners taken from old
plants, debilitated by years of fruit
production. The grower also has to
take in consideration that there are
sorts with perfect flowers, and others
with imperfect flowers. The former
possess both male and female organs
of reproduction, and are called her-
maphrodite or bi-sexual, sometimes
(although erroneously) staminate

sorts, and will produce fruit, even if a single plant or variety is
standing all by itself. The imperfect or pistillate varieties have
a perfect pistil (female organ), but no stamens, or these but imper-
fectly developed. Consequently they cannot
be depended upon to produce fruit, at least
not in profusion and perfection, unless planted
in proximity to varieties that have perfect
stamens (male organs) and can furnish pollen
(the principle of fecundation) to the pollenless
pistillate sorts. Purely staminate plants —
Perfect Strawberry those having no pistils and always barren —
Blossom. are more rarely met with. In buying and
setting plants these facts must be kept in
mind, and whenever imperfect varieties, which usually are the
most fruitful, when pollen is furnished by others, are planted, a
row or two of some suitable and perfect sort
should always be alternated with every four
or five rows of the pistillates. I might make
this statement still stronger by saying that lack
of proper pollen is the chief cause of barrenness,
or of improper development of seed or fruit, in
many plants. Putting many varieties in close
proximity usually seems to prove beneficial to
all, with strawberries as well as with many other bush and tree
fruits.

SELECTION OF VARIETIES. — No " best " variety can be named.
One that is doing elegantly in one locality often turns out to be
an utter failure when transferred to another location. Each sort
seems to have a combination of soil, climate and treatment that
suits its nature best, or special requirements of its own. The
grower must try to learn what sort or sorts are best adapted to
his surroundings. Those giving the best results in one's nearest

Pistillate
Blossom.

268 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

neighborhood are usually the ones to plant and experiment

with. The highly-lauded, expensive novelties had better be

touched very lightly, and in a cautious, experimental way only.
PLANTING. — Where, in accordance with these suggestions,

really good plants are procured from a grower near-by, success

will be rendered much more
certain from the very start,
than where one has to depend
on plants purchased from a
distance. Reliable nursery-
men send out a pretty fair
lot, such for instance as
shown in annexed illustra-
tion ; and if these are well
packed, and suffer no unusual
delay in transportation, they
will do well enough. Often
such plants, when received
by express, are not exactly
what we would wish them
to be. Immediately after
arrival place them in a damp,
cool place, (cellar or the
like), and keep their roots
covered with moist sand
until wanted for setting out.
When this time has come,

and the field is all in readiness, trim off about one-third of the

roots with a slanting cut, using a sharp knife, and remove all

partly-decayed leaves ; next dip the roots in water, and let a boy

scatter the plants along the rows, one

plant to every twelve or fifteen inches,

and follow (or let your man follow) on

hands and knees, taking up each plant in

its turn, spreading the roots carefully,

and plant it in the bottom of the furrow,

on a little mound of soil, filling in mellow

earth around it, so the crown will be the

veriest trifle below the surface of the

ground, but not covered. This is done

because the crown-growth has an upward

tendency, and the plants gradually rise

higher out of the ground as the seasons

go by. The annexed illustration shows a fine sample plant, well

planted. As always in setting plants or other growths, the most

important point, and the one making success reasonably sure in

any case, is the thorough firming of the soil around the roots,

Bunch of Strawberry Plants.

A Good Plant Well
Planted.

Strawberry Culture. — 269

not merely around the crown. It need hardly be said, that the
soil, when moist, but yet crumbly, is in exactly the right con-
dition for the operation of setting plants. Where only shallow
marks, no deep furrows are made to indicate the rows, the
planting may be facilitated by the use of a gardener's trowel, or
one of the improved dibbers illustrated on page 43.

TREATMENT AFTER PLANTING. — Now comes the tug-of-war.
Weed growth must be prevented all through the season, and to
do this the cultivator should be started soon after planting, and
used at short intervals pretty much during the entire season.
Weeds appearing in the rows are to be pulled up by hand, or cut
out with the hoe.

Spring-set plants should not be allowed to fruit, as this
would be a great strain on them so soon after the check received
by the rough treatment of transplanting. The little labor
required in picking off every fruit-stalk as soon as noticed, and
the exercise of a little patience on the part of the grower, will
always be well repaid in increase of crop the year following.
The whole vital force of the plant is thus thrown into vigorous
growth of the plant itself, and the production of runners.

The amateur frequently, and the market grower rarely,
practices what is known as the " stool " or hill method, which
consists in growing large individual plants or " stools," and pre-
venting the full development and rooting of runners by their
early and careful removal. This method requires much atten-
tion, but gives fine plants, and very large and perfect fruit, but
not so much of it as can be produced by the so-called matted-
row system. This is the one commonly practiced by market
growers, and the more popular everywhere. The runners are
allowed to strike root on a strip from one to two feet wide. As
the season advances the cultivator has to be gradually narrowed
down until, at last, we have a strip of cultivated ground only
about two feet in width. The cultivator should also be run in
one and the same direction, not back and forth between each two
rows, so that the runners will not be disturbed or torn out more
than necessary.

This frequent stirring of the soil by means of hoe and
cultivator serves another good purpose, and performs a most
important office. The strawberry succeeds best when the soil
is moist. In rare cases only can irrigation be made use of.
Usually we have to depend on moisture already stored up in
the soil, and supplied by rains. The underground-reservoir is
always well filled during winter, and all we have to do during
the growing season is to prevent waste by over-rapid evapora-
tion. Of the means at our command to retard this evaporation,
mulching with a few inches of mellow soil is probably the simplest
and most inexpensive, and, I believe, also the most efficient We

270 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

might accomplish this same object by mulching with litter —
straw, hay, saw-dust, tan-bark, etc. — but it always involves more
expense and is usually less convenient. It also affords undesir-
able hiding places for vermin, prevents the needed airing of the
soil, and favors the propagation of fungi. Altogether, the loose
soil mulch, which is the result of good tillage, is usually the
most satisfactory. A clean straw or hay mulch, however, comes
very acceptable during the picking season. It then protects the
berries from contact with the soil, and keeps them bright and
clean.

WINTER PROTECTION. — Strawberry plants are quite hardy,
yet liable to heave out by the freezes and thaws of winter, and
for this reason should be given a winter overcoat. Without
protection of some kind, say by a mulch of litter or snow, best
results ought not to be expected, as great loss of plants, and
damage to fruit buds and roots will be unavoidable. If you have
a nice strawberry bed, whatever you may do with it, don't neglect
to provide a winter mulch. It is not enough to apply fine
compost to the patch in the fall. Coarse, strawy manure will do
very well, and should be put on all over the ground (not only
over the rows) as soon as the ground is frozen hard enough to
hold a wagon. Evergreen boughs are often quite serviceable ;
but nothing in the shape of winter mulch can be superior to salt
or marsh hay. This is to be had quite cheaply in many
localities. Evenly spread over the ground it will afford a perfect
protection, and the grower may feel at ease concerning his
strawberry bed when thus covered, in the most trying kind of
winter weather.

GATHERING THE FRUIT. — At the approach of spring the
winter mulch should be removed, or rolled aside until the patch
can be given a thorough stirring up with cultivator and hoe.
Whatever weeds start up, are pulled up by hand or killed with the
hoe. Afterwards the clean mulch may be put carefully around
the plants on each side of the rows to keep the fruit clean.

The berries, when ripe, are picked in clean quart baskets,
level full, and if for market, only nice, clean, sound, good-sized
and well-colored berries are wanted in the baskets. Leave the
imperfect fruit on the vines, or throw them away. Neither is
there any place in the baskets for leaves and rubbish. Straw-
berries are perishable, and do not improve in any respect after
being taken off the vines. The sooner they are us"ed or disposed
of, the better.

STRAWBERRIES IN HOME GARDEN. — Farmers and towns-
people who grow only their own home supply, usually plant a
little patch in their garden, and here the plants are set quite
close, perhaps fifteen inches each way, and all tended with the
hand hoe. Here the ground is almost always very rich, and a

Strawberry Culture, — 271

large crop can be grown on a small area. In all other ways
the plants should be treated as already directed for general
culture. This plan, although well enough suited to the narrow
limits of the average village garden, is not the one which I would
advise the fanner to adopt. The size of his kitchen garden is
(or should be) in correspondence with the greater opportunities
in regard to area, manure supply, and available labor which the
firm affords, and with the greater demands of the farmer's largo
household for vegetables and fruits. One acre — rather more
than less — is just about the proper area, and it should be arranged
somewhat similar as shown in the diagrams on pages 20 and 22.
This will give him the largest possible results with the least
possible demands for hand labor. By all means let the farmer
plant his strawberries, and his other small fruits in same plot
also, in long rows, as advised for the market grower, and cultivate
by horse power, early, often, and thoroughly, to save hand labor.

ROTATION. — Many growers, especially market gardeners,
take off only a single crop, plow up the patch after the fruiting
season, and plant it to potatoes, turnips, celery, or other crops.
But if to be kept for another year, the matted rows after fruiting
should be narrowed down again, using a one-horse plow, a sharp-
cutting cultivator, or wheel-hoe, and left not over 6 inches in
width. New runners are now allowed to occupy the whole space
of the original matted row, thus renewing the plantation. Guard
against weeds. I do not believe in fruiting a patch more than
two years, or three at most, and new beds should be planted every
other year to take the place of the old ones.

INSECTS AND DISEASES. — The larvae of the sawfly is some-
times and in some sections very destructive to the foliage. Fora
remedy try a solution of hellebore, one ounce to two gallons of
water, and sprinkle or spray it on the plants.

The strawberry leaf-roller is another destructive foe, the larvae
of a moth which is two-b;ooded. The presence of this worm is
easily detected by the rolled-up leaves. The simplest remedy is
to mow the field after fruiting, and when the stuff is dry enough,
set fire to it.

For the crown-borer, troublesome in the west and far north,
and the strawberry root-borer, a small caterpillar, I know no
remedy except plowing up the whole patch and starting a new
plantation elsewhere.

The white grub has been already mentioned. The larvae of
the goldsmith beetle resembles it in appearance and life habits,
and should be managed in the same way.

The tarnished plant-bug, and the dusky plant-bug are very
unwelcome visitors to many strawberry plantations, and little
can be done to keep them off Spraying with the kerosene
emulsion, or solution of buhach may do some good.

272 — How to Make the Garden Pay.

These and all other insect foes can most easily be kept in
check by a frequent renewal of the plantations (wide crop rota-
tion), and by mowing and burning the foliage after fruiting. This
treatment will also tend to prevent the strawberry diseases, such
as scald, rust, etc.

VARIETIES.

The following is a list of the leading sorts :

I. PERFECT FLOWERING.

Atlantic.

Belmont.

Bidwell.

Captain Jack.

Chas. Downing.

Cumberland Triumph.

Kentucky.

May King.

Miner's (Prolific).

Neunan's (Prolific).

Old Ironclad (or Phelp's Seedling).

Parry.

Prince of Berries.

Sharpless.

Wilson (Albany).

2. IMPERFECT FLOWERING.

Must have one or more of the preceding list planted with
them.

Bubach (No. 5).

Champion (or Windsor Chief).

Crescent.

Jewell.

Jersey Queen.

Manchester.

Warfield No. 2.

The most popular and most reliable of the list are the
following :

Chas. Downing.

May King.

Neunan's Prolific. (For the South).

Parry.

Sharpless.

Wilson.

Bubach.

Crescent.

Manchester.

Warfield No. a.

YC

290342

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY