How We Got Into Pekin: A Narrative of the Campaign in China of 1860

This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project
to make the world's books discoverable online.

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject
to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books
are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover.

Marks, notations and other marginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the
publisher to a library and finally to you.

Usage guidelines

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing this resource, we have taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying.

We also ask that you:

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for
personal, non-commercial purposes.

+ Refrain from automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.

+ Maintain attribution The Google "watermark" you see on each file is essential for informing people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liability can be quite severe.

About Google Book Search

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web

at |http : //books . google . com/

, i -T^ -^ n

<'r^

Ctioo.^o

^B^^

^

fc„«

^^H

m&9^si

i^ms^,.^^^^^

Jjartoart CToUrflr librara 1

FROM TRB

J. HUNTINGTO.N WOLCOl T FUND

EjEtubhshcd by Rockh WoEjcdrr (H« (J. 1^70), iti tacraorr

i.ti lii» fathrr, for " the porch juc of book» of pcr^

m«ncnl vatut. the prcfercircc to be j^ivro lo

worVt rtf Hi&lory* Pr^Uticii Economjr^

■ad SiJcielogT** (L«ilcr of RagcT

W«lcott, June 1, 1B91O

K.cfived 3 %re^. 19

0' •

HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

A NARRATI\'E OP

THE CAMPAIGNMN CHINA OF 1860.

BY

/■

V^«.^ .X,. w i'-*'-'^

THE REV. R J.' L. M'GHEE,

C«Art^t> TO TKS fOBCBS, AVD TO HIS KXCKLUCXCT THB BAJX OT CAKLIWLB.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.

LONDON:
R I (^ H A R D B fi N T L E Y,

1862.

[ T%€ JuUtar rrjmrj the rigkt of rnmtlaiwn.]

(iLloo^z

^(Acc?cfc

<^CA./V-CC^»*-

LOKDOW : W. OLOWn AVD SOXS. •TAlCFOia> 0TRSR AKO OIIAUKO CllO«.

DEDICATED,

BT PERMISSION,

TO

HIS EXGELLENOT

THE EARL OF CARLISLE,

BT HIS FAITHFUL AND

GRATEFUL SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR.

PBEFACE.

Having had the good fortune to serve with the
head-quarters of the expeditionary force in China
throughout the whole of the late Campaign, and
to be present upon every occasion of interest ; and
having kept such notes as a man can keep in a
bell-tent, or without any tent, in the hot weather in
China, I may be excused for saying that I have had
as good opportunities of observation, and of record-
ing what I saw, as most men in the force. I have
been repeatedly asked by friends to publish some
account of the campaign, but do so with some
hesitation, on account of my inability to do justice
to the subject, not being a military man.

The following pages were written before I was
aware that Colonel Wolseley had published his work,
or I should never have attempted what he had

a 2

vi PREFACE.

undertaken; but my narrative was written under
the belief that no connected account of the expe-
• dition was in contemplation, and on my return
home I had not the resolution to commit my book
to the flames.

I have felt it to be in better taste not to bring
before the public any especial mention of the work-
ing of my own department during the war ; not that
I do not entertain a full sense of its great importance,
or that I am not disposed duly to " magnify mine
office ;*' but because anything that might savour of
egotism is to be avoided by all, and especially by
one who at all events ought to be a teacher. I say
this, because some persons might expect from me a
work of a character not so secular.

I have been truly glad to give praise when, in my
opinion, it was deserved, and have endeavoured to
be silent where there appeared cause for censure;
leaving the task of fault-finding to others to whom it
may be more grateful than it is to me, being quite
aware that a hasty or ill-formed judgment may be,
and often is, very unjust, and if promulgated may
inflict a wound and an injury which it may never
be possible to repair or to heal. No doubt the
censorious are a useful class of people; I have no

PREFAOE. Tii

ambition, however, to share either their pleasures or
their toils.

If offence should be given to any person by any
thing which is here related, my apology is that it
was utterly unintentional.

My narrative has been written without muoh
arrangement or plan; in part, because for this
purpose moments were taken from days of anxious
occupation, when I was obliged to be contented to
put down the recollections that came unbidden at
such times; and all who have been in China can
testily that the climate often renders it necessary
to do as you can, rather than as you would.

DUBLDT,

/tiii«,1862.

CONTENTS.

CHAPl'ER I.

FAOI

From Home to China— Leaying Home— Malt*— Cairo— The
Red 8ea and ito Fmita— Aden— Gane—PaMengen— The
French— Penang^— Singapore— ArriTal at Hong Kong

ClIAPl'ER II.

IIongKong— Hospitalityof the Troope— Head Quartern— Eow-
loong— Rndenesa of aNaral Officer— Probyn*8 and Fane's
Horse— Tent pegging— 'Si whan*— The Military Train—
The Coolie Corps— Regimental Transport— The ' Happj
Valley ' — ^The Cemetery and the Race Conrse— Sardine's
Warehouses— * Poke Fnllom' — Admiral Hope— Sir Hope
Grant 16

CHAPTER III.

The Loss of the Transport 'Assistance'— Shanghai— The Na-
tire Boat—' Chow Cliow* Water— The Chnrch Mission—
The NatiTe Town— Jesuit College— Pigeon English— llie
American Mission and Miss Fay— Religion in China • 3

CH.U*TER IV.

Leare Shanghai — Chosan — Oor Allies — Pootoo— Beanty of the
Scenery- Buddhist Temples— Hong Kong— Talienwhan—
The Fleet— The Scenery— Heat and Drought— Difficulty
in procuring Country Produce— Confusion amongst the
Snpplies--The Shooting of the Neighbourhood— Our Ride
from Victoria Bay to (^iin Bay — The Soldier's beM
Friend— Hand Bay— Hangkow— The Chief Mandarin . 1^'

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.

FAQB

Weighed Anchor for Pekin— Landing— Our Bivouac—Cock-
roach Broth — Colonel Anson — ^Arrived at Petang— Land-
ing— Tea— Petang^Colonel E088— The Military Train-
Difficulty of Transport . . . .71

CHAPTER VL

Reconnaissance — ^Leave Petang— The Cavalry — ^Advance of the
Allied Forces — The Tartars desert their Camp— The
Second Division— The Tartars charge onr Gnns— The
Tartar Soldier's Hnt— Prisoners— Lines on Moyse's Death
—Chinese Documents— Chinese Policy— Resnlts of the
Expedition . . . . . .92

CHAPTER VII.

Preparations — Trench Digging — Attack on Tankoo — Arm-
strong Guns — ^Floods in the Camp— Bridge over the Peiho
— Dead Animals— Reconnaissance — Breakfast among the
Grapes— Deserted Works— Mr. Parkes, C.B.— Skirmishing
— Ruined House— Takoo Forts— Disposition of our Guns
—Explosions— Storming the Forts — Numbers of Killed . 110

CHAPTER VIII.

Recovery of Guns taken in 1859 — The Wounded— Surrender
of the South Forts— Favourable Weather— Wet Tents
— Camp Dinners— Crimean Steaks— Grumblers at Home
—A dead Horse . . . .131

CHAPTER IX.

Gardens— " Great Kings"— Up the Peiho — Diplomacy— Ad-
vance on Pekin — Transport — A Morning's March — A
Bantam Cock — Hooseewoo — Grapes— Advance from Hoo-
woo — Chinese Treachery — ^Walker's Escape — Our Sur-
prise—Proposed Camping Ground— Battle of Chankea-
whan— Probyn's Charge — A narrow Escape . 144

CHAPTER X.

Burning Camps— Changkeawhan— Looting— Suicides— House
of Refuge— The Field of Battle— Home-like Scenery-
Coolies > Mickey King— Packing Baggage — Advance of
the Tartars- Useless Squares— Charge of the King^s Dra-
goon Guards— Irregulars— Camp and A'illage burnt — An
Armstrong Shell ...... 164

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XI.

FAOI

FiJacfaow— Standing Cunp—Messn. Parkes and Loch— Marble
Tomb— Market— Camp Shayea— Sick and Wounded— Ulti-
matom — Dep6t— Mahometan Moaqne— Major Brown'a
Horaea— BiTonao — Brick Kilns — Skirmishing— Pekin^
Our lost Allies^ Our Caralry miaaing— Head-Quarter
Temple 183

CHAPTEB XII.

Colonel Wolaeley finds the French and Cayalry— How they
came to be lost — ^Lord Elgin and Sir Hope Grant Tisit the
Summer Palace— Entrance— Hall of Audience— Gromids
—French Looting— The Palace— Furs and Embroidery-
Curios and Silk— Gardena and Snmmer-honses — Art and
Nature— Interior of Temple— Golden Idols— A Chinese
Smnmer-hoose— Furniture of Snmmer-hoose— Grardens —
Cblneae Pliind^k^rs 201

CHAFTEIl XIIL

Preparationa for an Assanlt— Plan of onr Position— Colonel
Mann's Anxiety to make a Breach — John Chinaman gives
in— Chinese Treachery— Betnm of Messrs. Parkes and
Lodi— ** The wild Justice of BeTcnge"- Boulliyy a public
Loss — Chinese Perfidy — Kindness of Russian Embassy—
The Russian Burial-ground— Funeral of Messrs. Anderson,
De Norman, Boulby, and Priyate Phipps — Cruel Treachery
of the Emperor— Burning of the Imperial Palace — Bum*
ing of Temple— Antiquity of Chinese Art— A Besfaience
with ito Temples — Gardens — Curios— Halt of Troops-
More Burning— Reflections— Return to Pekin— A neces-
sary Sacrifice— The Days of the Present Dynasty numbered

I of the American Mission . . .217

CHAPTER XIV.

The Auction— DiaooTery of the Treasury— Prise Money— In-
cidents of the Auction— Scarcity of Money— Anting Gate
—London and Pekin— The Walls of PeUn— Butchers*
Shops— ** Chow-Chow** Shops— Coal-yards- Curiosity of
People — Importance of John Chinaman— Description of
Town— Tartar Town— Furs and Skins— Shops— Bargain-
ing— John Bull— Pusiling John Chinaman— The Temple
of the EaHh— The Temple of HeaTcn .292

xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTEB XV.

FAGS

Signing of the Convention— Treaty of Tien-Tsin— Severity
the best Policy— Wintering the Army— The DiflSculty
solved— The French retire from Pekin— Lamah Temple—
The Troops march for Palechow— Peiho Biver— Lady
Grant— Head-Quarter Staff— Efficiency of the Staff— Gar-
rison at Tien-Tsin— Tien-Tsin— Severity of the Winter—
Conveyanoe of Mails most defective— Regularity of French
MaQs . . . . .308

CHAPTER XVI.

Sledges —Horse Marines— Game — Rations— Anecdotes^The
Sick— The Hospital— Home Memories — The Morals of the
Army — The private Soldier— Confectioners — The Auction
— Cramping the Feet— Chinese Ladies— Beggars — Charity
of British Troops— The Lishman and the Coolies— Pointed
Arguments—" Englishe " and * * Flenishe "— " Poke Beno "
— A Jeweller — Horses and Races— Paper Hunts— Read-
ing Room — " Samsho " — Occupation and Amusement-
Tartar General .319

CHAPTER XVII.

The Ice breaks up— Unhealthiness (»f the Climate— Brown's
Stories— A Pair of Ducks — ^Policy of the Pekin Court-
Home Policy— Prudence— Campaigning— China open to
Trade— "The War Party"— Lord Elgin— The Hospital
at Tien-Tsin— Missionary Work . .352

HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER L

From Home to Chioft— Ijeaving Home— Malto— Cairo— The Red Sea
and lU Fniita — Aden — Chdle — Puaengen— The French — ^Penang
—8ing^K>r»— Arrival at Hong Kong.

DuRiKO die last Cafifte war, some companies of die
second battalion of the Sixtieth Rifles, and a sqoad-
nm of the Twelfth Lancers, were sent up die coon-
try on an expedition without tents or baggage, and
a hard time they had of it It was during the wet
season, and one day in a pour of rain, when the men
were trying in vain to light their coi^ng-fires, the
following dialogue was overtieard between two Li^t
Dragoons.

**The Sergeant-major's words has ccnne true; he
says to me the day I volunteered firom my old regi-
ment, the Fifth Dragoon Guards, he says to me, as I
was leaving the gate of Portobello barracks, in Dub-
lin, ' Jinkins,' he says, ^this is the worst days work
as ever you done in the whole course of your life ;*
and so it was, I wish I was back again,**

B

2 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

" Yes,"* was the reply from his comrade. " They
say in my troop as I'm a bad 'un, and I know any
how as I'm a great blackguard, but there's one thing
as is a bahn to my censcience, and that is, that Tm
not a volunteer**

1 can enter into the feelings of the Light Dragoon
as to volunteering. It is a great point when you
find yourself where you would rather not be, if you
are able to console yourself with the recollection that
" you are not a volunteer.'* K you are ordered any-
where, then it is your duty to go, and to take what-
ever comes, and make the best of it ; the path of
duty is in the long run always the best, but if a
man volunteers his services, he takes the responsi-
bility of his fortunes upon his own shoulders.

During the winter of 1859-60, 1 was sitting one
evening reading, with a companion, by a comfortable
fire, in my quarters at home, feeling very well con-
tented with the world at large and with my own lot,
though not without my share of the ordinary trials of
life, when the post arrived ; I opened one letter, the
handwriting of which I knew well as that of a good
and firm friend, when, to my dismay, I discovered
in the first few lines that I was to join the Chinese
expedition (then being organized at Hong Kong)
by the Overland route.

K a shell had fellen at my feet through the roof,
I could hardly have been more startled. " China for
me." I said, holding up the letter ; my companion

LEAYIKa HOME. 3

shut his book and looked np, scarcely less startled
than I was ; neither of as spoke for some minutes ;
what a crowd of thoughts and feelings rushed through
my mind and heart I I have not forgotten them yet
I felt at once that it was the path of duty for me
that I should without hesitation accept the appoint*
ment I had ^ taken the shilling,'' and was under
orders ; and I felt a confidence which is worth a
world of human hopes, and overrules all human fears,
that the unseen Hand which had guided me in many
a difficulty, and had steered my firail bark through
more than one troubled sea, was still at the helm ;
I bowed my head and said, ^'Thy will be done.**
And I felt at peace, though sore troubled.

My hardest task was to make light of the matter, to
treat it rather as a good joke, a pleasant trip, and so
forth, in order to prevent others from exhibiting any
signs of sorrow, which would have been difficult to
bear. I had some weeks before me yet ere I was to
start; I often wished that the time had come, much
as I dreaded its arrival

like all days, whether good or evil, it came at
last, and not long afterwards I found myself on board
the 'Taletta,' at Marseilles, and steaming into the
Gulf of Lyons, where it was rough enough to
make most of the passengers very unhappy ; but as
sea-sickness is one of those evils from which I am
exempt, I had not that additional ill to bear, not that
I should have cared in the least about it I felt too

B 2

4 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

much alone and broken-hearted to think of any lesser
ill I had a major, a Scotchman, in the same cabin
with me, a very good fellow, though a little " cran-
key," as the weather got hot (for we stuck to-
gether all through to Galle). In three days we
arrived at Malta late in the evening ; it was dark,
and as the anchor was dropped, I heard a well-
known friendly voice call out, "Halloa, M*Ghee,
where are you?" "Here I am, where are you?"
" Here, Fve got a boat, come along." My friend
had seen my name down as to be expected in
the * Valetta,' and, like a good warm-hearted fellow,
had come off to meet me. We rowed across the
harbour to the house of another military friend, who
was stationed at Malta, and it seemed to look home-
like to meet with those from whom I had parted not
many months before, at the station where we had
been quartered together ; but such must military life
always be. You are constantly losing your friends,
by other means besides the ordinary casualties of this
world; still they are not lost altogether, they are
sown over every quarter of the globe, and turn up
sometimes when least expected, and most wanted.
Four hours saw us out of Malta harbour, on our
way to Alexandria ; we just missed a heavy storm,
in which the sister-ship to ours (the * Yectis ') left
Alexandria, although no pilot would venture to bring
her out, so much for the enterprise of her com-
mander (his brother commanded the * Yaletta ') ;

CAIBO. 6

and she weathered it safely, although her stem was
80 much damaged that she was obliged to stop at
Malta for repairs. At Alexandria it was hot, al-
though but a few days before we had left France,
bound in a most severe frost; at Cairo, where we
were detained two days, it was hotter stilL Our
delay arose from a storm in the Red Sea, so violent
that our ship could not receive the mails and pas-
sengers until it had abated. Of course I was not
sorry for the detention, which gave me an oppor-
tunity of seeing something of the first Eastern city
which I had ever entered. You need not fear, how-
ever, my readers, that I am going to inflict upon you
a description of Cairo, or any details of the Overland
route. Everyone has read a dozen better than I could
write ; everyone has seen poor Albert Smith's *China;*
and twenty per cent of the readers of a book of this
sort, have had their personal experience of the journey.
Two things however did surprise me very much at
Cairo, one was how such very small donkeys, with
such very thin legs, could carry such large men, six-
teen stone weight ; and the other was how several
young people going out to India to join the Queen's
service there, could make such great asses of them-
selves, as they did at Cairo and elsewhere ; foi^tting
tiiat they were expected, in the service, to tr>% if
possible, and appear like gentlemen, if they were
not really so. But these were what they call in
India "" Competition Wallahs."

6 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

Having been joined by the '* Southampton lot^"
we foond a large party when we embarked at Suez ;
but I think that the two streams firom Marseilles and
Southampton, although confluent firom Suez to Galle,
never thoroughly commingled their waters; the Mar^
seilles folk considering themselves the faster of the
two, and having the latest papers, and the last bit
of club gossip, swaggered a little, while the South-
ampton people did not appear to see this, and on the
other hand looked down upon those who had shirked
the Bay of Biscay as not having done the thing
thoroughly.

I do not intend to insinuate, however, that there
was any bad feeling on board, fiar from it, all was
harmony, except indeed that there was some love,
which whether it afterwards reproduced as a lasting
fruit that harmony from whence it first sprang, I am
not prepared to say; let us hope that it did. If
contrasts agree, it must have been all right, the &ir
one was so exceeding &ir, her hair was a fiery red
(I don't say that I at all dislike the colour myself,
particularly as for a year and a half I have seen
nothing but the black-haired houris of China), but it
VX18 red, — ^the most merciful man in the world could
not hint at auburn, and then she had such a pro-
fusion of it that it added depth to the colour, which
was so warm, that you felt the Red Sea was no place
for her; her skin had paid that penalty which &ir
skins must pay, — it was fi'eckled, and looked like a

THE RED SEA« 7

diamond edition of a very mach &ded leopard!
Then she was (what the Easterns like so much) very
&t| rather short, and some people said ^dnrnpy.**

Bat the ^ he,** who and what was he ? He was a
parson^ and^ as I have said^ a perfect contrast to the
lady, — ^tall and thin, very thin ; his hair, if he had had
any, would have been black, as you could tell by
the ^fringe** which surrounded his head; his &ce
managed to raise about two dozen straggling hairs,
near the ears, and they looked very weak, as if the
soil did not agree with th^n.

How their loves began I am not prepared to say,
unless it was that they sat next each other at table,
^^propinquity again;** the first I heard of it was
one morning on deck, when a lady told me, all in
a titter, that ^ Mr. Billing and Miss Cooing were ab-
solutely engaged 1 ** And true enough, ever after they
sat on two stools side by side all day (I hope those
stools have not become repentant since), and the
session was prolonged until a late hour at night,
only interrupted by the break&st tiffin and dinner-
bells; their thoughts must have been very pleasant,
as they never seemed to q)eak to each other ; she
appeared to be engaged in contemplating the state of
the timbers of the ship's deck, and he that of the
horizon. This was all a week's work in the Red Sea.
Most people would have thought it too hot for any ao
tive occupation, but Master Cupid appears to hold most
uncontrolled sway over human hearts and destinies,

8 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

when the divinities which presided in old times over
other employments have been beaten fix)m the field
by the force of circumstances, or else are asleep. K
idleness be " the mother of mischief/* as the proverb
says, mischief and love must be brothers.

Aden appeared to me more like the evil part of
Hades, as one's ims^ination paints it, than any other
place. lis sterile rocks evidently of volcanic forma-
tion, and those innumerable black boys, like imps of
darkness, tormenting donkeys, in whose bodies might
be supposed to reside the spirits of departed " fools,**
and the sultry heat fiivoured the idea. The only
difficulty was that the said little demons could bathe
and dive for ever in the clear green water, which
ought by rights to have been a sea of fire. Every-
one landed of course, and everyone came on board
again, and everyone was very hot, and no one was at
all searsick, and the captain was very polite, and the
ladies no doubt were all very agreeable, but the only
one (the wife of one of the most gaUant officers who
serves the Queen, she was on her way to India with
her husband) who could have charmed away my evil
humours fell sick at Suez, and we saw her no more
till she came like a ghost fix)m her cabin at Galle.

The sea, I should add, was as polished as the Cap-
tain, and the breeze, what there was of it, as agree-
able as the ladies, and so we arrived at Galle.

One day at Galle I found quite enough, more par-
ticularly as at night I was placed near some " com-

GALLE. 9

petition wallahs," who were anything in the world
bat gentlemen ; besides Galle is very hot and stifling,
and at sea you sometimes have a breeze. I was in-
daced to gp to an hotel by a gentleman, who repre-
sented himself as ^ the only white man in Galle who
kept an hotel,*" and he was certainly most polite and
considerate, and qnite a '^ jolly companion" to those
who liked that sort of thing, singing songs and telling
stories after dinner ; but if fortonate enough to return
home, I think I should try the ^ Old Mansion-house,**
as more suitable to steady, quiet folks. I and my
Scotch nuyor, and several others of our party, drove
out to ^ do ** the cinnamon gardens and the ^^ Wank
Wallah,** some seven miles from the town, and were
amply repaid by the scenery. This was my first
introduction to tropical life ; and all that I had read
of it, and the pictures and illustrations which I had
seen, fiuled to give any adequate idea of its luxuri-
ance, its deep colouring, and the load of varied vege-
table life under which the teeming soU must groan as
it produces it Towering above all are seen the tall
coooarnut trees, laden with fruit, and standing close,
as their stem is branchless: underneath, a matted
jangle of spice trees and flowering shrubs, rich in
varied colours as in fragrance ; and on the ground
rank grasses, which looked like a green-grounded
carpet closely worked in an endless pattern of various
coloured flowers, all in harmony, because all the work
of God« But yon must pay the penalty of such luxu-

10 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

riance in nature, by living in a climate unfriendly to
European life. For my part I prefer home.

We were followed in our up-hill drive by numbers
of boys, offering flowers for sale, and gems of various
sorts (of glass) ; what an unchanging feature " the
boys " are in every country and clime I To these
pretended stones they gave the various names of
beryl, topaz, cats*-eyes, &c., &c. ; they were folded up
very neatly in white papers, and looked very pretty.
My friend the Major was looking at a paper contain-
ing fifteen or twenty, for which the undressed urchin
asked fifteen dollars ; perceiving that the Major did
not bite, he came down to seven dollars, when, to get
rid of him, the canny Scot offered him a rupee, which,
to his intense di^ust, was accepted. I rejoiced to
see Sandy the knowing overreached by the nigger 1

We reached our destination, a summer-house sup-
plied with fruit, &c., and we especially enjoyed the
pines, which though cheap were anything but nasty,
loitered away an hour or two, and drove back again.

Next day we embarked in a much smaller steamer,
which was to take us on to Hong Kong ; but our
party was greatly diminished, as the larger number of
the passengers were bound for Madras and Calcutta.

I was deprived of my old chum " the Major," but
his place was very well supplied by a young captain,
an aide-de-camp (now, I think, brevet-major); almost
all the passengers were military men about to join
the expedition, and several of them as good people

PASSENGERa U

as yoa ooold meet anywhere. We had also some
Russian and some French officers on board, one of
the former, a nayal detain and aide-de-camp to the
Grand Dnke Constantino, was one of the most plear
sant and gentlemanlike men I ever met

The *^ Gaols'* were peculiar, one vras a young
officer, a captain ; the other, an older man going out
as chief in his own department They had both come
from Marseilles, and although not what is ordinarily
termed sea-sick^ they were extremely sick at sea si
intervals during the voyage. It was evident to the
most casual observer that neither of these gentlemen
had been accustomed to the abundant luxuries of the
Peninsular and Oriental steamers ; they went in, like
men, at everything, round the table and back again ;
the junior carrying on the war with two plates at
once, while the senior was contented with one, well
filled and finequently replenished. Then came bilious
attacks, loss of appetite, starvation, recovery, reple-
tion, and so on. We soon learned what a dangerous
thing it was to make inquiry for the colonel's health.
^Ah! man Colonel^ cofnment se ta*M7 oe matin ; fes-
ph^quevausvauspartezmieuxf ^ Ahl maisnon^je
vaus remercieyje suis bien malade; regardez la langue **
(and instantly his tongue was thrust into your foce),
**ah^c est bien sakjuest-ce pas?** I could not help think-
ing that his manners were the most unpleasant of the
twa Fortunately for the rest of the passengers these
gentlemen never used the bath-room, so that there

12 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

were two less on the morning's list But the national
polish of the French is a world-wide proverb 1 We
had several Parsee merchants from Bombay, bound
for Hong Kong, and very nice fellows they were, par-
ticularly polite to Englishmen, whose rule in India
they praised loudly, and I believe honestly ; and we
had also some Jews fix)m Calcutta, very much to be
liked as intelligent and gentlemanlike companions;
and both Jews and Parsees exhibited at least a re-
spect for our religion by asking permission to attend
our Sunday morning service. We had altogether
representatives of fifteen nations on board, including
a Dutchman, who was rather disagreeable.

The captain and ship's officers were not only at-
tentive and polite, as I have invariably found them
in the Peninsular and Oriental service, with one soli-
tary exception, but several of them were of families
and connections such as you would expect to find
rather in the royal navy than in the merchant ser-
vice ; but the Company pays well, and makes lib^ul
provisions of various kinds for its servants, and, as a
natural result^ it gets an excellent class of man as
officers ; you meet some, of course, of the " rough and
ready'* sort, but these are good sailors.

A few hours at that most picturesque spot, Penang,
served to break the monotony of the voyage ; the
hotel was not much of a place, and we did not stay
there very long, but drove up to the waterfall, under-
neath which was a narrow basin where everyone

PENANG. 13

bathed^ and where two officers were very nearly
drowned ; one who coold not swim well having got
hold of another and pnlled him down. I formed the
exception, partly for fear of a very hot san and partly
becanse the place was small, and I am not overfond
of a public batiit The sceneiy well repaid the drive,
it was more picturesque than Ceylon, because the
foliage was not so dense, and therefore you could see
more. Here, too, I was first introduced to a gentle-
man whose acquaintance I was destined to cultivate
for some time, ^^ Mr. John Chinaman,"* Penang is
quite a colony of Chinese, they are much more nume-
rous than the Malay population ; they build houses
alter their own manner, and occupy miles of streets,
planted with rows of trees which form the most deli-
cious shade. I spent some hours in driving to vari-
ous bungalows in search of an officer belonging to
the native regiment stationed there, but having been
misdirected by the Madras soldiers and imposed upon
by the driver of the carriage, who declared that he
knew ^* the officer Sahib and his bungalow,"* I was
warned by a gun from the steamer to return and left
Penang without seeing my friend.

Days wore on in their dull monotony, and Singa-
pore was next hailed as a break in the voyage, where
we spent twenty-four hours. We made an inconti-
nent rush to the hotel, and called for ice in such a
manner as they only can who have been stewed
for a fortnight until they are thoroughly done, and

14 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

have not tasted liquid below eighty degrees ; we ate
lumps of ice, and drank sherry-cobblers ; we iced our
heads and hands and then felt^ as Mark Tapley says,
"quite equal to having our boots took off.** We
supped and slept on shore, and were very well taken
care of by " Madame Esperanza.*' I was awakened
early in the morning by the sound of horses' feet, and
a staff-officer who occupied the same room jumped up,
and opening the jalousies called out to the equestrian
(without waiting to see who it was), " Gtet inside, sir,
get inside, youll be much safer in an inside place and
with the window up," when, as he leaned out of the
window, what was his dismay to discover that he had
been " chaffing ** his own general I Notwithstanding
that the tigers in the woods round Singapore feast upon
one Chinaman per diem, destroying three hundred
and sixty-five on an average every year, still the
Celestials fer outnumber everyone else, and are a
source of uneasiness to the European mercantile popn
lation ; they have a separate town, full of business
and industry, the streets are wide and the houses
good, and it has quite the Anglo-Chinese air which
the native part of the town of Victoria, at Hong
Kong, has.

On board again, some of us having got a private
supply of ice — shame on the Peninsular and Oriental
Company — and as many mangosteins as we could
procure, a most delicious little fiiiit which grows in
perfection at Singapore, the trees yielding three crops

ABBIYAL AT HONG KONG. 15

in the year; five more days, and we reach Hong
Kong, the weather fine all through. As we ronnded
the ^green island** into Hong Kong harbour, I was
much struck with the similarity of the scenery to
that in more than one part of another green island at
home ; the same form of mountain, the same granite
rocks and short herbage, recalled painfully and y ividly
a ^ lou^** where I had spent many a happy day.

16 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER II.

Hong Kong — Hospitality of the Troops — ^Head-Quarters — Kowloong —
Rudeness of a Naval OflBcer— Probyn's and Fane's Horse— Tent
pegging — ^"Siwhan* — ^The Military Train — ^The Coolie Corps —
Regimental Transport— The 'Happy Valley'— The Cemetery
and the Race Course — Jardine's Warehouses — 'Poke FuUom' —
Admiral Hope — Sir Hope Grant.

As we steamed np the harbonr the town of Y ictoria
came in view, stretching along the foot of a moun-
tain for a distance of more than four miles, if you
b^in at the Chinese town and measure up to Jar-
dine's at East Point; then there are terraces rising
over each other up the steep hill-side, and viUa resi-
dences large and small standing in weU laid out com-
pounds, and built in the best English style.

About halfvray down the town, but high on the
hill, stands Gk)yemment House, a handsome building ;
the bishop's residence lower down, to which is at-
tached a Chinese college, is marked by its small round
tower. The barracks are of course low down, in a
most hot and unhealthy position, and the Commander-
in-Chief 's house above the barrack, but still not well
placed. Then the great mercantile establishments
are chiefly near the water, close to the main wharf;
on the left is Dent's house, and most kind and hos-

STAWLBT. ROKO K02rO.

TttfOM Page IT.

VICTORIA. 17

pitable people they are, while Jardine's is &r away
at the extreme end of the town, and is equally noted
for good offices to those who are fortunate enough to
lie introduced ; the club-house, a convenient building,
laces the Post-office in the centre of the town, in the
Queen's Rood ; as you land at " Pittar's Wharf* and
walk up the short distance from the water to Queen's
Road, the right leads you towards .the Chinese town,
the left to the barrack and the English quarter ; but
the chief fitmily residences are on the side of the hill,
which is all tastefully planted.

I most say that there are few more picturesque or
prettier places than the much-abused Ilong Kong;
it has many of the beauties of Naples upon a smaller
scale, and were not the town so situated that no
breath of air can reach it during the hot season, I
do not think that the climate would be so &tal as it
is said to be. It appears now to be felt both by the
Government and the residents that ** something must
be done,** so we have got Kowloong, but more of this
anon. I cannot bring myself, as some people do, to
hate the place; true, I never lived there for any
length of time, but it is so pretty that it is hard not
to like it; perhaps the hearty reception which I
met with firom several people whom I had never seen
before, and the continued kindness of these new
friends lent charms to the place in my eyes which
were not its own ; I can well believe tluit it did. I
did not know a soul when I landed but two,— one, a
field officer in ^ the Royals,** whom I had known in

c

18 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

another batallion, and the other, a staff-officer, Frank
Grant, of the 5th Lancers ; yet I soon was put up,
and had several most hospitable invitations. As to
"the Royals,** their hospitalities were a proverb,
the officers of every regiment that arrived (and they
were pouring in pretty quickly) were invited, and
made honorary members of the Royals* mess, besides
artillery, engineers, and everyone else, so that how
they managed to live at their own mess was a mystery
to me, but it is just the character of the Old Corps.

The troops were quartered in five places, — ^the
Royals and a Madras regiment at Victoria. At Stan-
ley barracks, about seven miles across the island, the
second battalion of the Sixtieth Royal Rifles. At
Deep Water Bay, about halfway between Victoria
and Stanley, on the right, Desborough*s and Govan's
Batteries and the King's Dragoon Guards. At
Siwan, the Military Train. And the remainder of
the forces, at Kowloong. The Greneral Order of the
28th April announced the distribution of the expedi-
tionary force.

•* Head Quarters, Hong Kong, April 18, 1860.
** Genbbal Obdebs.
" The following will be the distribution of the Expeditionaiy Force
to take effect from this date :—

FIRST DIVISION.
Major-Qeneral Sir J. Michel, E.G.B.

Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel Eikington, 6th Foot, Aide^le-Camp.
Captain Green, 77th, Deputy- Assistant Adjutant-General.
Lieutenant Allgood, Bengal Army, Deputy- Assistant Quartermas-
ter-General.
Royal Artillery, Desborough's Battery, Barry's Batteiy (Armstrong).
Royal Bngineers, 18th, Fisher's Company.

GENERAL OBDEB& 19

Colonel SUvdej, OB^ with rank o<^ Br^M^iaL

G^jtoin R. Brooke, OOth Bi^jal ILdts, Br^^oe-IIaJcr.

Isi The BojU Bcgnnmt, Sad Batuilkci, 31st BngxMntt, f^nrwlMna

2ikd RwGAW,
Coland 8«tttoii, with nak of Brigadier.
OftpUin B. van Scnnbenxee, 9ui Foot, Bn^^lUjar,
2al Qneen^s Begiine&t 2ai Baxulioo, ^jch Sojil Bi5es &Mi Btt-
talioo, 15ch PaoJBDb Katire Inikatrj.

SECOND DIVISION.

Major^Gcnml Sr B. Napier. KX; JS.

Captem H. P. Brooke. 4ddi Rectment, Aldenk-Cnsp.

BnrttrMaior W. GicadMid, Baigd En^ineer^ Aide-^de-Omp Ex-
tra.

BtaTci-Major IC DOlon, Biie Brigade, Dgpaty-Awiitint Adja*
tanl-OenenL

C^iUin W. Hamner, 87th lUgimmt, Dpputj-Aflistaat Qoarter-

BOTAX. AmLLSST.

M€mbnf» Batlefy. Govu*! Battery.
Bojal Ei^faom, 23id, Onham'a Company.

OoIqbcI JephaoQ. with imnk ci Brigadier.
BreTet-Majur Hoooormble R. BailUe Hamilton, Brigade-Major.
M Regiment^ the Bofb lat Battalioo, 44th Regiinait, 8th Pim-
j/Koh KatiTO In&ntiy.

4th BrtoAM.'

Colonel Reevei, with xaiik ci Bri^zadier.
Brevet-Major M. Walker, Y.O, 3rd Regiment, Brigade-Major.
67th Begtmant, 99th Bepment, 11th Ponjanb Native Infiuitiy,
19th Prnganb Kativa Iniiuitry.

Catalbt BuoAsn.

lieatenaat-Cokxiel Fattla, with tank of Brigadier.
Lientenant-CokKiel B. Walker, 2od Dn^^oon Goarda, Assistant

Qaartermaater-Geneiml.
lat King'a Dragoon Goanla, 2 Sqnadrona.
Probyn'a Hone, Fane*8 Hone.
Boyal Artillery, Milwaid'a Battery (Anrntfong).

2

20 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

ARTILLERY RESERVE.

Rottoii*8, Beddingfield's, and Penny cuick's Batteries, Royal Artillery.
2 Batteries, Madras Artillery.

ENGINEER RESERVE.

Head-Quarters and one-half of 8th, Fapillon*s Company.
Royal Engineers, 2 Companies, Madras Sappers.

(Signed) " By Order,

*« FREDERICK STEPHENSON,

'* Deputy AdjtUant-Oenend"

Far the larger portion of the army was encamped
at Kowloong, which is on the main land opposite the
town of Victoria, about a mile-and-arhalf across the
harbour, and although there was no shade, and the
sun had full power on the tents, still there was a breeze
at some time of the day, which was refreshing, and
there were comparatively few men laid up.

Kowloong was quite the feshionable resort of the
inhabitants of Victoria. There had never been seen
in China anything like the number of troops en-
camped there, and every afternoon private boats and
sanpans were in requisition to bring over visitors to
see " the pretty soldiers." A curious scene occurred
at the landing place one evening, which illustrates
what little gods, or rather great gods, naval people
thiuk themselves to be; and how much a man
who is in many respects a gentleman, and ought to
be one altogether, may forget himself when he
permits the pride of oflSce to puflf him up.

A gentleman was bringing his wife over to Kow-
loong one afternoon, and a naval officer of rank, I

THE " IRREGULABa- 21

shall not otherwise designate him, was approaching
the landing place at the same time, overtaking the
IMivate boat of the civilian. The civilian landed
first, handed his wife to the shore, and walked up the
beach. What was his surprise, however, to hear
himself accosted in the following style, ^ Who are
yon, sir ; do yon know who I am, sir ; how dare yon
land before me, sir ; why did yon not wait till I had
landed, sir?** and more to the same effect This to
a man (with a lady on his arm), who conld not
have seen that any person was overtaking him, as
he was steering his own boat The gentleman^
for here there was really bat one, was too mnch
of a gentleman to answer sach sea&ring langoage
as it deserved

Probyn's Horse and Panels Horse were the objects
<^ greatest attraction, althoogh the Armstrong guns
excited a good deal of attention. I never saw any-
thing more gay, and yet thoroughly soldierlike, than
those two Irr^olar Regiments. Probyn*s regiment
had been embodied much longer than the other, and
yet Fane*8 fellows were just as well drilled and in as
good order, although they had only been raised for
service in China. The light grey tunic and that
most handsome of head-dresses, the turban (Probyn*s
blue. Fane's red), set off the men to the best advan-
tage, and some of them were not only handsome but
noble-looking fellows on horsel)ack, — for they did not
seem as if they were ever intended to walk, — their
legs were not good and reciuired the lai^ lKX)t to

22 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

hide them. They were armed with pistols, carbine,
lance, and sword ; until I became accustomed to them
I could not help speculating as to what sort of people
they really were, they looked almost kni^tly, when
tilting with the lance, yet there was clearly a dash of
the freebooter about them, so that one was reminded
of Byron's criticism on William of Deloraine, " not
quite a robber, yet but half a knight" Of the
officers commanding both these regiments there was
but one opinion in China, as there had been but one
in India, — ^that they were two of the finest fellows in
the service, and you could hardly avoid finding it out
by looking at them.

Probyn, tall but not slight, with a fine manly
figure, a head of almost classic beauty, and a counte-
nance in which gentle softness of character was so
blended with manly firmness, that you could not say
which had the advantage ; and when you knew him
and spoke to him, the charm of his manner was not
to be resisted ; but if you want to see him to advan-
tage look at him mounted on that exquisite arab, the
chesnut, which, small as he is, has got such shapes
and breeding that he bounds along under his rider
with perfect ease, while his master yields to every
motion with such grace that horse and man seem
one.

Fane is not so tall, his heavy moustache and
beard almost hide the lower part of his fece, and
give him a very soldierly aspect, while a bright blue
eye shines out above, full of intelligence and kind-

PANE AND WATSON, 23

nesSy and of hnmoor too. I have heard that Walter
Fane is considered one of the handsomest men in
India, and I can well believe it ; he is an accom-
plished musician and draughtsman^ a most agreeable
companion, and the efficiency of his newly-trained
corps throughout the campaign proves him to be,
what he has long been known to be in India, a first-
rate cavalry officer. He and Watson of the Irregular
Horse are both a standing reproach to our system.
They are both subalterns in their own regiments,
and therefore cannot get (according to the rules of
red tape) any reward for their services, until they
shall have become regimental captains. They have
been both selected for important cavalry conmiands ;
Watson and Probyn won each their Victoria Cross
in the same campaign, Watson then being senior,
but Probyn having become a captain, received his
brevet, while Watson has got nothing but that
bronze cross, which he so well merits. Why is it,
when the late Charles Nasmyth, of Silistria, was
taken from the Bombay Horse ArtiUery as a subal-
tern, and made a substantive miyor at home, with a
staff ap{)ointment (all of which he richly deserved),
that such men as Fane and Watson are left for years
unrewarded, while men of no comparative worth are
getting over their heads, and are thus acquiring
claims for command which the best men ought to
have if the gix)d of the service was really kept in
view. They are Ijoth men who look rather to earn
Ittomotion than to reap it; there are hundreds who,

24 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

with half their claims would have wrung from the
Horse Guards rewards which have been so honestly
earned, but are stiU withheld.

The junior oflScers of both these regiments were
evidently well up to their work, and about as nice a
set of fellows as you could meet with in the army, —
and there was not a lady in Victoria, who did not
wirn out to see the " tent-pe^ng," and other exercises
which were as novel as they were interesting. But
to describe the tent-pegging to the uninitiated. A
tent-peg is hanunered into the ground, and the object
is to festen your lance in it so firmly, as you ride
past at full speed, that you shall cany it off, and a
very difficult feat it is to accomplish ; it is no easy
matter to strike the peg at all, and if you do, the
shock 19 so great as to carry your lance round, as
you must ride at it with your lance trailed and
grasped about the centre, leaning well over to the
right, and unless you are very expert, a stunning
blow on the head or a dislocated wrist are likely to
prove your rashness, rather than your skill ; in spite
of these dangers ten or twenty officers and sowars
enter the lists ; Probyn leads off, hits the peg but
does not draw it up ; half-a-dozen sowars follow, some
miss it, some touch and splinter it ; one fellow's horae
runs clean away with him, knocks over half-a-dozen
Chinamen, and is lost in a cloud of dust; at last
an old Sikh rides at it like the wind, shouting his
war-cry, and hauls the peg aloft on the point of his
lance. Again the officers take up the game, and

TENT-PEGOING. 25

prove in the long ran their saperior skill in the nse
of their weapons; this superiority in sach exer-
cises is a most valuable adjunct to the officers who
have the command of such troops, as it gives them a
personal weight and influence with their men, which
tends alike to secure subordination and to inspire
confidence in their leaders in the hour of danger. K
we ever should be involved in war anywhere in the
regions of Egypt or Syria (which is not impossible),
I am certain that such troops as those two regiments
would do most efficient service, and probably be
more than a match for any cavalry that we should
have to encounter, while their transit from India
would be an easy matter.

But we must leave the tent-pegging and the ladies,
reluctant though we be, and there are some ladies at
Victoria who would grace in every way any society
at home, to take a glance at some of the preparations
being made to spend that nice little sum of how
many millions !

I ride out to ^Siwhan,"* some six miles east of
Victoria, where there is a tumble-down barrack,
built as a ^ sanatory station,** only that it was found
to be a few degrees more &tal than the barrack at
Victoria, and therefore has been disused; now the
First Battalion Militar}^ Train, jast arrived from
Aldershott, are quartered there. All round the bar-
rack and in the valley aro hundreds of ponies from
Manilla and Amoy, and bullocks from India and
Amoy. The handsome little bullocks aro too fat for

26 HOW WE GOT TO PBKIN.

work, and many of them dying of rapid internal dis-
ease, and the ponies as wretchedly thin as they well
can be. I find that all these animals have been
bought for baggagers, but that there are no men to
look after them, the small number of Europeans in
the battalion (a lai^ percentage being laid up from
overwork, I saw one man on the road that day
struck down by the sun, he was dead the next) was
perfectly inadequate to even feed and water the
animals under their charge, and they had no aid
except that of a few Manilla men and Madrases
whom they had picked up at Hong Kong. There
was no proper provision made for feeding these ani-
mals, and in consequence the larger portion of their
food was trampled upon, and they were living and
dying the most unserviceable-looking beasts I ever
saw. I am not an ardent admirer of that Corps, nor
of the officer whom I saw in conunand at Siwhan,
but I hope that I like &ir play better than most
things, and I maintain that it is not &ir or just to
say that the Military Train " broke down " during
the campaign, when they never had a chance of
doing anything else. It was utterly impossible,
undermanned and overstocked as they were, that
they should not break down, and therefore let the
right horse or horses^ whoever they may be, be
saddled in this case. But if you give one man the
work of twenty, you must not blame him if it is not
done ; yet this was the chief reason why the Mili-
tary Train broke down ; there was also a lengthened

laLTTABY TBAm. 27

contest between the Train and the Commissariat as
to whether the latter was to command the former or
not I do not pretend to decide npon the rights of
the qnestion, bnt nntil it was settled, of course there
was much confusion.

Then there was the Chinese Coolie corps, organ-
ized very well by Major Temple, and officered from
regiments 9^. QcL staff-pay being held out as an
inducement to officers to leave their own regiments
and undertake the dirty work of looking after
Cliinese Coolies. The Military Train received a
considerable addition to its officers in the same way,
but I look upon this system of providing extra
officers for that Corps as very defective, and for
more than one reason ; the best men will prefer to
remain in their regiments, and will be kept there,
and in the transport service, when there is so much
peculiar and unpleasant work to be done, and the
glory is of such a quiet character, that it does not
stimulate men to extra exertion, it is hardly to be
expected that volunteers who have no interest in
that branch of the service, and who desire chiefly
9s. 6(L per diem, will take much trouble to learn
their duties, or use the same exertions to fulfil them,
as officers who have the credit of their corps to sup-
port ; and thus there are a number of men put to
discharge most important duties, which they do not
particularly care about learning or performing, and
men wonder that the scheme does not succeed.

With the Coolie corps it was different, it was

28 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

entirely a new thing ; there was no other way of start-
ing it, and its duties, though laborious, were of a much
less complicated nature than those of the transport ser^
vice. That body requires a thorough reorganization ;
it is useless as it at present exists, for active service,
and we should either do away with it and trust to
luck, as we did in the Crimea, and largely too in
China^ or else reorganize it upon an efficient scale ; at
present every guinea that it costs is thrown away.
For the cavalry I am certain that a system of regi-
mental transport would be found to answer very
well ; light and strong carts could always be horsed
and driven by animals and men not quite fitted for
other duties, and even if this were not practicable
for the heavier baggage of the Dragoons, what a
deliverance it would be if some of those stones*
weight of blankets and kit which bring our " light **
Dragoon up to twenty or twenty-one stone in the
saddle, were transferred to light carts which could
always be up with their regiment Let anyone say
if it would not be worth a trial to relieve our troop-
horses of four or even two or one stone each. A
man who rides fourteen stone to hounds must pay
a good price for a good horse, and does not use him
more than three times a fortnight for six months,
that is, about six-and-thirty days* work in the year ;
while a troop-horse, which costs 30/. or 40/., is required
to carry half as much again, and to do it day after
day ; and on service to work harder than a hunter.
No fox-huntor would risk hLs neck thus, nor ought

inUTABY TRAIN. 29

those vastly important duties, which belong to the
cavalry, to be risked any longer ; the changes which
have been made in modem warfieure, the great range
and accnracy of both gons and rifles, demand that
we dioold have some really light horse, who conld
move with speed and endnre fedgne, which no
baggage animal, as onr present Light Dragoon trooper
is, can do. If there must be some men condenmed
to ride twenty-one stone, have it so, and let their
duties be snch as men riding that weight can per-
form. Often have I seen, and sighed to see, such
hon^es as those in the old Third Light Dragoons and
the Fifth Royal Lish Lancers condemned to be beasts
of burthen; those highly-bred wiry horses of the
newly raised Fifth, better than which money could
not have purchased in the United Kingdom, if they
were only put to carry what they are equal to carry
well, what work could they not do ! Oft^n have I
watched the regiment with mingled pain and plea-
sure, drilling so beautifully, but under such difficul-
ties as it appeared to me, and wished that I could
only fiishion it according to my own ideas.

Out in the direction of ^ Siwhan,'* that barrack
where the Military Train was quartered, is one of
the drives which the inhabitants of Victoria rejoice
in. At the southern end of the town you descend
a gentle slope, the road on both sides tastefully
planted, and before you on the right lies the ^^ Happy
Valley,** running up into a narrow gorge in the
mountains, down which a clear stream of sparkling

30 HOW WE GOT TO PEKK.

waterrushes. A curious place this " Happy Yalley T
to look Qiy it is charming, and the stranger exdaims,
"How lovely I how I should like to live here!"
Would you ? Look at that handsome villa at tihe
head of the "Valley/* and halfway up the lull
you can see, if you put up your glass, that it is de-
sorted and goiug to ruin ; not a soul in it The
builder thought as you think, and built that nice
house for himself, but he died there ; and the next
occupant and the next shared the same &te; so
"Happy Valley" was no more used as building
ground.

But these pe(4)le had not &r to go to their last
resting-place, for the cemetery is in "Happy Val-
ley," and a sad thing it is to walk through it, and to
see how many of England's sons have been doomed
to leave their bones &r away on a foreign shore ;
cut off in the midst of manhood and of vigour, com-
pelled by the stern necessities of the service to a
clime so unfriendly to European life. The polite
circumlocution used at Victoria for that hated verb
to diey has thus become, " to go to Happy Valley,"
" Did you see how ill Thompson looked to-day, he
has been getting worse and worse for some time
past; if he doesn't get home sharp, he'll go to
* Happy Valley/"

The wall of the cemetery bounds the Hong Kong
Race-course, and the Grand Stand, which is the scene
of so much gaiety during the race week, is just out-
side its gate ; one cannot help wishing that it was

HAPPY VALLEY. 31

somewhere else, and although there is no fear that
the slumbers of the departed will be distorbed by the
shout that ^ Blue wins,** still it is scarcely decorous
that Jollity and Death should have their temples so
close together. The race week at Hong Kong is the
week of the year, and keen is the contest for the
great races which is carried on by the leading mer-
chants at Victoria. No expense is spared to procure
good horses, the best arabs are brought from India,
and good second or third-rate horses are brought out
from England at great expense and risk, and strings
of them are daily seen at exercise, proving how John
Boll carries his national tastes with him wherever
he goes, nor grudges to spend the dollars which are
earned at Hong Kong, truly *^ in the sweat of his
free,** in the gratification of them. We may well
hope that as the racing there must be altogether in
the hands of gentlemen^ it is fi'ee from those evils
which dis^i^race the turf so much at home. One
year one great ^ House ** wins, a fi-esh horse fit>m
England is the victor; but before next February
another ^ House ** has got out another horse, which
proves himself better, and the next year a ^ dark
animal ** comes down from Shanghai (where the same
sport is carried on), perhaps a " Waler,** and beats
them both* Far be it from me to say that such ex-
citement, when honest, is unlawful or unhealthy, or
to wish its promoters anjihing but success, so long as
they run &ir, and don't gamble.
Leaving then the beauteous but deceptive ^ Hi4)py

32 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

Valley" on our right, with its cemetery and race-
course and wooded mountains beyond, we arrive at
the handsome house and warehouses of Jardine and
Co^ which lie to the left of the road, between it and
the east-end of the harbour. These gentlemen
have their own pier and village for their workmen,
and their own guard of Indian troops, all armed and
drilled and walking sentry, in regular military style,
and very necessary they are, as the pirates and rob-
bers in China are very daring, and the plunder of
" Jardine's'* would be a rich bait to their cupidity,
and a descent upon this extreme end of the town in
their fest-saiUng junks would be by no means im-
practicable ; while the island is filled with the very
worst characters in the south, many of whom have
made it their abode, in order to escape from justice
threatened by their own magistrates on the main
land. Thus, in the native town at the other end of
Victoria, you see the roofs of the houses covered
with large stones as weapons of defence against
robbers, who fi^quently make night attacks on their
countrymen in spite of a numerous Indian police.
One of these occurred during my short stay there,
in which several lives were lost, and the robbers all
got oSl

The road winds along the margin of the strait, for
about two miles beyond this, and if there is anything
of a northern breeze here, you will meet the rank,
beauty, and fashion of Victoria taking their evening
drive or ride, in carriages of all sorts, fi*om the Lon-

BIDING PARTIES, 33

lion britecha of the Governor, down to the buggy or
wafi^n of the storekeeper. If^ on the other hand, the
wind is soath, yon most go out in the opposite di-
rection on a new road towards ^ Poke Fullom,* made
under the able directions of the lion. G. Cleverly,
the €k)veminent surveyor, to whom Victoria owes
all its present beauty and convenience. This road
is mudi higher, being cut in the mountain side,
and from it you look down the granite cliffi upon
the deep still water beneath. There is Mrs. M.
taking her evening ride ; how well she looks, how
gracefully she sits her horse, and her figure is seen
to advantage in the plain riding-dress. That cunning
old fox. Colonel , her namesake, is riding be-
side her.

But what a contrast comes down the road!
Another ^ party ** riding, and another Mrs. M., a mili-
tary ^ party "* this time, bumping along full canter, well
out of the saddle every step, and down again with a
thump that you hear twenty yards off; well forward
and banging on to the near side of the pony, I can-
not say that die sitSj without an abuse of terms, nor
yet can I call the arrangement between her and the
horse riding. Yet somehow they get along, to the
no small amusement of all beholders. I suppose that
if no one made themselves ridiculous there would be
too little for the world to laugh at This place, which
bears the name of Poke FuUom, is in my opinion
much the most desbable part of the island of Ilong
Kong: it is near the south-west extremity of the

34 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIK.

island, high above the sea, and open to every breath
of the southern monsoon which blows in the hot
season, and between three and four miles from the
town. One house alone has been as yet built there,
which is chiefly used for picnic parties, as it would
be unsafe to live there unless there were a number of
residents, who could afford each other mutual pro-
tection. I cannot but think that if the wealthy in-
habitants would build here, and abandon the tovm
except for business hours during the hot months,
that the health of the colony would improve by a
large percentage. I always felt the better for an
afternoon's ride there, as there was a freshness in the
air which I did not find in any other part of the
island.

I would be glad, as I have said before, to think
as well as possible of Hong Kong, — ^it has great
.natural beauties; the path to Stanley Barracks,
which runs from the head of the Happy Valley
across the mountains, is full of beauty, and resembles
the highlands of Scotland and Ireland; were it more
planted its charms would be multiplied tenfold, and
by the increase of the few deer which it still holds,
it would become a noble forest. The hills are green
and afford good pasture in many places, the valleys
are watered with the purest streams, while the granite
rocks give boldness and grandeur to the scene. I
wish Hong Kong was not in China. But for good or
ill we must soon leave it for the north, as everything
is now nearly ready, and the troops already named

TB£ ADMIBAL A5I> THE GEXTBAl. 3S

for the expeditioiiaiT Ibroe are being eai*.anLeiiL
Admiial Hope has made all the naval arraa^L^L^
with great skill, and has btooght to bar all Li-
energies of mind and body (and both are nr^l <itjiediy
of a high Older) upon his work : he Iix*k? into eTerr
detail himself^ and goes throudli as ma<:4i wr<rk a.^
would kill most men six times orer. I>0Gf/^^ Le
is determined that» as far as he can, th^rre sLill Ije L4>
fiulore this time : and firom what I hare seen of him
I should say that he was one to whom, if £l?-
Iand*s navy ever wants a Commaoder-in^liieC the
honoor of the ooontiy might be safely commltU'd.
It is from no feeling of pen^ooal liking that I have
oome to this oondosicm ; true, I have been introdace<l
to him, but he makes it a point never even to retnm
the salnte of a military officer; and this in 90 marked
a manner, that we soon learned never to salnte him.
He is a tall and large man, of commanding ap^icar-
ance and a handsome bee ; and as brave a sailor as
ever trod the deck.

Sir Hc^ Grant locks qoite the cavalry soldier ;
his figure rathw tall and slight in form, active and
well-knit, and he sits that grey Arab pony, bis
&voarite and a perfect picture, with the ease and
grace of a finished horseman ; his bit is severe, but
his hand is light, and the little horse moves with
full confidence. The General seems about fifty years
of age, but as firesh and fiiU of woric as a man of
thirty. His &ce usually wears a pleasant expression,
and his manners are easy and affable ; but there is

n 2

36 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

a look about his month which suggests to yoa that
his lips are often compressed, and seems to show an
under-current of stronger feelings than those which
usually appear on the surfiswje. His high principle
and kindness of heart are only really known to those
who have been intimately acquainted with him ; and
I have seldom, if ever, met a man who had in the
same degree the art of attaching to himself those
who had served under him. His successful career
in India is too vividly before the public mind, that
I need speak of it It is no mean praise to say
that he shines in private as in public life, and his
fiwje never wears a happier expression than when,
after his day of toil, he solaces himself with his
violoncello, of which he is a perfect master, and
draws forth from it sounds which, if you have a soul
for music, will float for many a day in the ear of
your memory, especially if you hear him play some
of his own compositions His courteous treatment
of all, and the total absence of anything like self-
assertion in his manner, could not but be &vourably
contrasted with the demeanour of the other chief.

THE LOSS OF THE TRANSPORT * ASSISTANCE.' 37

CHAPTER ra.

The Lou of the Twuispart ' Aamgtance '^-Shanghai— The Native Boatr^
• Chow Chow • Water-The Church MiMion— The Native Town-
Jesuit College— Pigeon English — ^The American Miaaion and Miaa
Fay — Religion in China.

Etertbodt has been embarked and shipped ofl^
and that without any accident bat one, the loss of the
screw transport * Assistance ;* she was ran npon a
rock near the shore, between Victoria and Deep
Water Bay at the back of the island. The rock was
unknown, and her captain was, I believe, acquitted of
all blame. No lives were lost, but she sank veiy^
rapidly with all her stores ; and a number of the
Hong Kong coolies whom she was to carry to the
n<Mth, and who had received an advance of pay,
took the opportunity of bolting in the confusion when
they landed. So on Monday, the 11th of June, the
Commander-in-Chief and the staff left Hong Kong,
having seen everyone else off; the northern mon-
soon was Qtill blowing, and so strong was it as to
cause part of the transport fleet to anchor for some
days, unable to beat up against it; the south mon-
soon is in theory supposed to blow from April to
September or October, but north of Hong Kong I

38 HOW WB GOT TO PBKIN.

do not myself believe in it Some of our force has
been already established in the north at Chusan;
the General had left Hong Kong on a former expe-
dition on the 31st of March in the screw steam-
clipper ^Granada,' which was taken up firom the
Peninsular and Oriental Company for his use during
the campaign (and on board of which I sailed),
and arrived at Shanghai on the 6th of April. Not a
very interesting place this said Shanghai except
to those gentlemen who are engaged in making the
" Umighty " dollar. The settlement is built upon the
left bank of the Woosung river, about eight miles
from its confluence with the Yangtse-kiang, into
which it flows from the south. And above the Euro-
pean settlement, on the same side of the river, lies
the ancient Chinese city of Shanghai.

There is a sharp bend in the river, at which a
small river, crossed by a wooden bridge, enters it on
the left side; here lies the American quarter. Next>
and above it, comes the English with the ambas-
sador's residence, a plain house standing in a mode-
rate-sized compound, poorly planted, and with very
yeUow grass growing on it, discoloured for want of
draining ; then along the Bund at the river-side come
the British merchants' residences. Dent's and Jardine's,
of course, and all the rest ; then France, and Prussia,
and Kussia fly their flags at their several consulates,
and numbers of boatr-piers are run out into the river.
The native boat, or ^^ sanpan," here differs from that
at Hong Kong. Here it is propelled by a large scull

THE NATITE DUAT. 39

from the stern, which works with Tery Httfe frictioQ
OD the rounded head of an iroo pin, fitting into an
iron cop imbedded in the oar; while at Hoog Eoi^
oars are used, and women row the boats as freqnoitly
as men ; here men only work in the aanpans^ These
she-saiI<Mfs at Hong Kong live in their boats, and
their children are reared there finom their birth.
While the mother polls her oar, '^the babv** sits
beside her at the edge of the boat, so near the wator
that yoa feel a little nenroos lest he shoold to|^le
over into ^ the briny ;** but not he, he is a knowing
little fellow. I hare seen <Mie a year oM or so, who
could hardly stand, get up, steady himself by the
oar, and begin to row along with his mother, facing
her, he leaning forward asshe polled ; and then when
his exertions had somewhat &tigned him, proceed to
refresh himself finom that soorce with which Nature
had provided him, and lie down to sleep, while the
boat was going at fall speed all the time.

Woe to the onlucky wretch who fidls into the river
at Shanghai. The sodden bend of the stream, the
river or creek which meets it, and the strong tide,
combine to canse a number of rapid and contrary
corrents and under-currents, known in China as
^Chow Chow water,** and it is generaUy certain and
sodden death even to the best swimmer, — he never
rises. A somewhat ludicrous story is told in China
npon this subject : — A lady, with her husband and a
little boy, her son, was landing in a boat at Ningpo ;
while on board ship she had heard of this ^ Chow Chow

40 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

water/' and learned of course to dread it, and it hap-
pened unfortunately that by some means the boat
was upset, and the whole party immersed in the
water, which luckily was not " Chowchow." This fe^t,
however, she did not know ; her dress kept her afloat,
but she exclaimed at once, " Oh my leg, my leg !"
(she was not a Yankee) " that dreadful Chow Chow
water, it has got a hold of my leg, I feel it pulling me
down ; oh my leg, my leg ! ** When what was her sur-
prise, to find ahnost in a moment the Chow Chow water
creeping up and up, and at last emerging beside her in
the shape of her own little boy, who had caught as he
was coming to the surface at the first thing he came
across, as drowning little boys will ; and as the whole
party escaped with a ducking, the accident turned
into a rather good joke. If it had happened at Shan-
ghai, the result would most probably have been very
different. Add to the danger of the water, that the
sanpans (or three-plank boats, as their name signifies,
one for the flat bottom and one for each side) are
very easily upset, and you will find that boating at
Shanghai is neither safe or pleasant. I myself am
quite of the opinion of the old gentleman who de-
clared that ^^ he had never seen a pleasure boat in all
his life."

The American and European settlements have a
fix)ntage of about a mile-and-a-half on the river, and
the depth is about half-a-mile; roads run through
all this at right angles, they ai^e tastefully planted,
and the houses stand in compounds, planted also, and

TUB tUUBCH MISSION. 41

there are numerons *^ stores** where you can bay
everything yoa can want, but no man will open his
month under ^ a dollar,** if it is only for a needle and
thread or a piece of twine. Yon must pay firom three
to six times the price of every article at home, for
people will not live in China unless they are well
paid for it, and I am not surprised.

There is an English church, for which as a build-
ing I cannot say much ; I believe there is a crack
in it somewhere, and I am not sorry, as they will
have to build another. The singing and music are
excellent, and the service in every way well per-
formed by the colonial chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Hob-
son. His wife takes an equal interest with him in
the Cliurch Missionary School for the natives, and
everything else that is good, and I feel certain
that it is not owing to any want of either skill or
z(id on their part that the mission is not in a more
flourishing condition when compared to either the
Jesuit or American. The former is about seven
miles from Shanghai, and little as I like the folk,
it Ls I must admit, most creditable to thenu The
French priests are shaved and dressed like Chinese,
and of course speak the language well, and they
had some seventy youths under instruction when
I visited the place; some of them were baptized
converts and others were catechumens, some being
simply instructed in Chinese literature, of which the
priests were tolerable masters; the chapel, dormi-
tories, refectoiy, and school-rooms were all clean and

42 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

in character. The stadents seemed happy and cheer-
ful, and were instructed in various arts, such as
modelling in clay, sculpture, wood-carving on our
designs, painting, and music, and you left the place
with the impression that the work was well done,
little as you might like the doers of it, who were
nevertheless as civil and obliging as could be ; but
one loses some of one's religious animosities living in
a heathen land. Our good General even, who has
all the instinctive horror of " holy water " which a
strictly religious Scotchman is likely to have, could
not refuse to use the ^^ aspersorium " at the funeral of
the French oflBcers at Pekin, and to sprinkle the
coffins of the departed with his own hand. Talking
of " holy water," it froze so hard at Tientsin in the
winter of '60-*61, that the Roman Catholic chaplain
to the forces there complained that the holy water
froze while he was saying mass, and became of no
use, and applied to tihe Deputy-Assistant-Quarter-
master-General for a stove to keep it in a fluid state.
I could not help telling him, when he related the
circumstance to me, that I thought if he had tried
the " holy ice " it would have been something new,
and perhaps might prove itself just as efficacious.
This Jesuit College at Shanghai has, I have heard,
been since visited by the rebels, and several of the
priests put to death ; whether this was done in the
zeal of these people as Iconoclausts or not I have not
heard.
The country round Shanghai is a dead level of

THE NATIVE TOWN. 43

ridi land and highly coltiYated, though the crops
are not clean, I mean not free from weeds ; one -is
painfully reminded by the stench which pervades
every field that they are very unclean in another
sense, owing to the free and constant use of liquid mar
nure by the fiumers. I visited the Roman Catholic
cathedral in the native town near the river, and
examined all the pictures, but I could not see the
Blessed Virgin with small feet, and I believe that
such a picture does not exist there.

The native town lies higher up the river than the
Mettlement and on the same side. It is walled, smv
rounded by a wet ditch, and there are some wall
pieces, in very indifferent order ; here and there were
a good many heads of Chinamen hanging up in bask-
ets near the gates as a warning to other evil-doers :
it is not a hundred years since the same thing was
done at home. As the rebels had taken and plun-
dered the place some years before, I was prepared to
find it in not a very flourishing condition, but I was
not prepared for the abominations which I encoun-
tered in the form of evil smells and sights; the attempt
to describe them would be useless, and could I bring
them before you it would only be to make you as
sick as I was myself^ and I don*t see the use of that
Plenty of tobacco smoke was the only antidote, and
perh^)8 that is one reason why the Chinese them-
selves smoke so constantly ; I wish some philanthro-
pist would introduce the use of peat, charcoal, or some
equally good deodoriser into the country.

44 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

There was a goard of imperial soldiers at each
gate ; they were civil enough, and I examined their
arms which were of a wretched description, — old
rusty matchlocks, spears, very harmless swords and
gingals ; these last were the most formidable of their
weapons. The gingal is like a large duck-gun, —
there is a tripodal stand for it, and two men are
required to manage it and carry it The man who
fires it is invariably knocked down by the recoil,
but it carries a very long distance and throws one
or more large balls. The natives at Shanghai are
very confident that we shall be beaten away fiom
the Takoo forts, so also are the Canton and Hong
Kong people; one guild of Chinese merchants at
the former place is said to have offered to back
their opinion to the amount of ten thousand dol-
lars ; and when reminded that we had taken Canton,
their answer was, ^^ Ah I that Mongo too muche top-
side, no all same Canton man," which translated fit)m
^^ pigeon " into real English means, that the Mongo-
lian soldier of the north was not like the Canton
soldier.

This pigeon English which you find spoken at
every port in China, I may as well explain for the
benefit of the unlearned, means business English, or
English in which business is transacted between the
European and the native, as " pigeon" is the nearest
approach which a Chinaman can make to the word
** business." I have tried them over and over again
and I never could get one to pronounce the word

THE AMSRICAN MISSION AND lOSS FAY. 45

bosiness; the pronanciations and idioms of *^ pigeon"
are peculiar, 70a must generally add an ^^ey" to
words ending in a consonant, and in ennmerating it
is necessary not to speak of one, two, &c., bat yon
most say " one piecey,** as, " my wantchey two piecey
coolieman, makey carry four piecey boxey.** Some
classical scholar undertook to translate *^ My name is
Norval" into pigeon, something in this wise : — " My
calley Norvaley, topside that Grampian monntey my
fiUfaer bringey sheep makey catchey chowchow, he
too mnchey likey that dollar, no wantchy my go for
makey that soldierman,** &c. I feel inclined to sus-
pect that a good deal of our Chinese is much of the
same character.

I was much pleased with the American Mission
schools which I saw at Shanghai, especially those
conducted by Miss Fay (I hope I spell the lady's
name correctly); I never met anyone more fitted
for the position which she holds. Her thorough ac-
quaintance with the subject, whatever it may be, helps
to give an ease and force to her instructions which
fiKrilitates the process of learning very much, and it
was quite a treat to hear her first class of boys demon-
strating a difficult problem of Euclid in exceUent
En^ish. Then the girls learn amongst other things
music, and sing both sacred and profane songs very
sweetly, accompanied by one of their own number
on an harmonium. The Chinese classics Miss Fay
has made herself so bt mistress of^ that one of her
pupils had been successfiil in the Chinese competi-

46 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

tiye examinations, and had become a mandarin, and
was then from his knowledge of English attached to
Sankolinsin, the great Tartar Commander-in-Chie^
as a sort of military secretary, which illustrates the
lady's acquaintance with the writings of Confucius
and Menchius. Nor was the most important of all
knowledge, that of God and the Saviour of mankind,
neglected, while of course nothing in the shape of
coercion was used ; but there is fisu* less of opposition
in the Chinese mind to the truths of Christianity than
in that of any other nation.

The Chinaman is very intelligent and is not parti-
cularly devoted to any form of religion, except the
honour rendered to ancestors, and that can hardly be
called a worship. Buddhism is most wide spread, that
came to China from the west, Mahometanism also, and
both are therefore foreign to the soil ; but then the
teacher of true religion has to contend against a gross
materialism and devotion to this life, which is perhaps
as great a foe to practical Christianity as the most de-
termined bigotry in any form of heathenism. In the
one case you have a soil to till in which the seed-
weeds and rootrweeds are so numerous and so rank,
that the good seed has hardly a chance in contendmg
with them for its possession ; pluck them out as you
will, they grow again and again, and nothing but a
perfect fallow appears to promise a crop in the dis-
tant future ; but in the other case you have a ground
unoccupied indeed, but it is because it is such a hard,
stiff, unyielding clay that it will not produce even

RELIGION IN CHINA. 47

weeds of itself^ and those few that grow have little
root John Chinaman is not at all of a religious turn
of mind, he very seldom goes to " Chin-chin,** or pays
his respects to his peculiar divinity, while to the
goods, pleasures, and profits of this life he pays an
unremitting devotion.

I remember finding a handsome little shrine in a
Chinese house where I paid a visit at Shanghai, and
on inquiry I found that it was sacred to the ^^ god of
wealth,** and the owner told me with hearty laughter
that "he worshipped him very much;** I believed
him. We have constantly occupied their temples,
and they never seemed to care much about it, and
only in some cases took the trouble to remove their
deities ; not that we generaUy disturbed their very
ugly images, although I have seen a statue of Con-
fucius at Canton forced to smoke a very short clay
pipe, which he did not seem to like; that was in
the quarters of the gaUant 87th, who were, by-the-
by, greatly di^usted that they did not form a part of
the expeditionary force, having been hurried off trom
India at a moment's notice, on the promise of active
service ; that Eagle which they so gallantly won, and
wear, was supposed by some of us to have stood now
in their way, as it might not be a pleasing reminis-
cence for our alliea I am happy for their sakes that
they have gone to a better place than North China,
dear old Ireland.

48 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Shanghai — Chusan — Our Allies — Pootoo— Beauty of the Soeneiy
— Biiddliiat Temples — Hong Kong — Talen whan — The Fleet—
The Scenery — Heat and Drought — ^DiflBculty in procuring; Country
Produce. — Confusion amongst the Supplies — ^The Shooting of the
Neighbourhood — Our Ride from Victoria Bay Ub Odin Bay — ^The
Soldier^s best Friend— Hand Bay— Hangkow— The Chief Man-
darin.

On Wednesday, the 18th of April, we left Shanghai
in the ^ Granada' and anchored down the river at the
"Ruggeds,*' and the next day reached "Kintang/'
which was the rendezvous for the Chusan expedition.
We found that the 67th regiment had already ar-
rived, also the ^Adventure,' with some marines and
artillery. On Friday the 99 th arrived, and early on
Saturday morning the little fleet set sail for Chusan,
led by Admiral Jones in the *Imperieuse.* The
Chusan group are pretty and for the most part fei^
tile islands, and at about eleven o'clock the Admiral
dropped anchor opposite the town of Ting-hai, in an
excellent harbour, but the tide is so strong that it is
sometimes difficult to manage small boats. Mr. Parkes,
C.B., went on shore and brought oflFthe two chief man-
darins, civil and military, to the * Granada,' when Sir
H. Grant had an interview with them, explained his

CHUSAN. 49

views as to the oocapation of the island and de-
manded the sorrender of some guns which were
mounted in a fort commanding the harbour, giving
assorance that the property of the inhabitants should
be respected^ which was most scrupulously adhered
to. To all this the mandarins readily consented, and
on Sunday morning early Sir IL Grant landed with
his staff, and spent the day in fixing upon quarters
for the troops. Although Chusan did not prove iteclf
as fiktal to our men as during the former occupation,
it was by no means a healthy station. The town
lies in a large plain some miles in extent, which is
surrounded by hills except upon the seaboard. Nu-
merous springs and streams are used to irrigate this
plain, so that it is one sheet of water in which rank
crops of paddy are grown, and, as it might have been
expected, fever was the result But the importance
of the position, as a key to the north of China and
as a depAt for the commissariat, rendered it impera-
tive that the allies should occupy it.

The inhabitants welcomed the English most cor-
dially as old firiends, and as you walked through the
town or in the country round they invited you into
their houses in the most firiendly manner, and some-
times treated you to a few words of English, which
must have been bottled up for many a year. Our
allies did not meet with the same welcome ; the nar
tives did not understand why the French had come,
nor were the Gauls at all so considerate in their
mercantile arrangements as were our people; in foct.

50 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

trade between them and the Chinese was anything
hut freej for is it not contrary to all principles of free
trade that the buyer should fix the price? Their
little playful ways with the natives here and else-
where led John Chinaman to form the opinion "Flen-
ishe, No good," which has often been expressed to me
in the strictest confidence. I need not say how en-
tirely I differ of course, from my fi-iend John China-
man in this opinion. So friendly were the people that
Lady Grant ventured to land on Monday morning,
and walked for a considerable distance round the hills
which overlook the town ; the country people were
very curious with respect to her ladyship's dress, but
quite polite withal ; they invited us to sit down in
their houses, and begged of her to take oflP her gloves,
admiring very much the whiteness of her hands : these
were the " ladies " who took such liberties, nor did
the fi*ankness and condescension of her manners please
them less than her personal appearance.

On Monday afternoon the * Granada ' left Chusan
and dropped anchor for the night among the islands,
and starting at daybreak, on Tuesday arrived at about
9 A.M. at the sacred island of Pootoo, the General
being anxious to inspect it, with a view of convert-
ing the place into a Sanatorium, which it would have
been very desirable to establish in case of a length-
ened occupation of the north of China, or indeed
should a large force remain in any part of the coun-
try. I myself cannot but feel convinced however
that for the European there can be no Sanatorium

POOTOO. 61

in these seas ; a man may presenre his health perhaps
for years as a civilian, not being exposed in that case
to the vicissitudes of the climate as the soldier is,
and living all the time in an excellent house, sur-
rounded by every comfort and luxury which money
can procure, but if he once becomes really ill then
nothing but home can save his life. Pootoo is about
two milcs-and-a-half long by an average of one mUe
in breadth. It is occupied entirely by temples, in
and around which about a thousand Buddhist priests
reside,— ecclesiastics by no means dignified, but on
the contrary very, very dirty. I had forgotten in writ-
ing the above the memorable exception of St Simon
Stylites and some others, in whom the dirt went far
to constitute the saintship; there is a prejudice at
home now, however, in favour of soap and water.
From the landing-place you walk along a flagged
mad which ascends with an easy incline; ancient
temples on your left near the shore, and noble trees
casting a pleasant shade around them ; while on every
side magnificent camellias, twenty and thirty feet
high, are to be seen glistening with their wax-like
blossoms to the top, Azalias innumerable of hum-
bler growth, and wild flowers of various hues form a
ridi carpet of surpassing beauty that springs beneath
yoor feet And there Is a "forget-me-not," — ^jes,
here in China as at home it flourishes, and calls up
many a memory and some that never sleep.

As you advance towards the centre of the island
the trees are less frequent, and rilh of sweet fresh

E 2

52 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

water cross your path towards the shore, and then
you descend through a rich grove to a hollow, or
little valley ; and here the scene is as enchanting as
can well be imagined, and more, &r more so, than
my ineloquent pen can paiut You pass under a
massive old rectangular gateway of stone, tall and
imposing, and carved all over in every conceivable
fentastic form ; time has mellowed the deep and bold
tracery, but not effaced it anywhere ; it seems just
ripe now, and you feel as if it had been keeping
for hundreds of years until you came to see it in per-
fection. Then there is a large pond to your left,
crossed by two marble bridges of the true China
pattern, which (vulgar thought I) reminds you of that
old dinner-set, the longest thing you can remember.
I am not quite sure that if it was one o'clock you
would not &ncy that you smelt that frequent roast
mutton of olden days. What a happy young fellow
you were then, you did not have to come to China
to look for your mutton! Sacred fish swim lazily
and secure in the pond, and sacred birds dream Ustr
lessly upon its surfitce ; your ecclesiastic, upon a good
old foundation, has an easy time of it And here
rests the great central temple of the island, evidently
of remote antiquity. Descriptions of Buddhist tem-
ples you have all read often, if you have never seen
one; the sombre light, the always-burning incense,
the triple Buddha, past, present, and future, of vast
size and rich gilding, and here numbers of other
shrines with their varied images, some of them of

BUDDHIST TEMPLES. 53

oolossal Stature, and one which catches yoor eye and
fixes joor attention. ^ The Qneen of Heaven "* with
the infimt in her arms, the resemblance to another
so-called ^ Qneen of Heaven,'' is startling ; who is the
borrower and who the lender? Did not Israel say
of old to the Prophet, '^ As for the word that thon
hast spoken unto us in the name of the Lord, we
will not hearken unto thee. But we will certainly
do whatsoever thing goeth forth out of our own
mouth, to bum incense unto the Queen of Heaven,
and to pour out drink-ofiTerings unto her as we have
done, we and our &thers, our kings and our princes
in the cities of Judah and in the streets of Jerusalem,
for then had we plenty of victuals, and were well
and saw no evil But since we left off to bum
incense to the Queen of Heaven, and to pour out
drink-offerings unto her, we have wanted all things
and have been consumed by the sword and by the
fiunine.** Materialism is very ancient, but that grafted
upon Christianity is not the oldest; I wish Rome
would be honest and return it, it does not belong
to her.

This group of temples covers a number of acres ; a
Htreet of poor houses where priests live branches off
from it, and there are some shops where cheap and
small wares are sold, and picture-maps of the Sacred
kland, and of the world, which is an elongated
parallelogram ; the Celestial Empire covers nearly the
whole of it, but it has a nice little border all rounds
where the various nations of Barbarians live, each

54 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

having a small square patch in the border ; there is a
printed description of each nation in few words, its
name and chief produce, which it is represented as
bringing to China as tribute. Some of these nations
I had never heard of, nor did I recognize as flatter-
ing the slight mention made of us. I could not help
saying to myself, " Never mind, well see who is to
pay tribute this time." Again you ascend, the
flagged road conducts you along the side of a hill
and towards its summit, the sea on the right; in
front is another temple, very smaU, haif-a-mile from
the central group ; it is perched on the top of a cliff
covered with flowering shrubs and overhangs the
sea, which, deep and blue, rolls against the perpen-
dicular rock hundreds of feet below.

The island stretches something like a mile beyond
this spot, which commands a view of a fertile valley
to the left front, bordered on the right by a sandy
beach, and at its far end another rich grove of deep-
green trees, between whose tops and branches you can
discern the many-coloured roofe of another cluster of
temples. Yes, if there is a sanatorium in the China
seas, it is Pootoo. I can imagine the wounded or
fever-stricken soldier lymg half the day upon its
grassy banks and inhaling the fresh searbreeze, and
imagining himself (for what cannot &ncy do ?), if he
turned away his gaze from its distinctive features,
at home. Oh sweet, oh healing thought, all ills that
have not yet touched the life, can you not cure
them!

But Pootoo kv m davtwk, cr it watM be :
UttD tenoiml; it kts bo baztioiir. nor is like joidior-
age Terr gcMl ; sliips would be expoaed to ibe fell
sweep of buth nvxiioiD^ im^ to ffte^k cif triiiixcis;
and althoQ^ sciQ, aiji cllmue, aiid be&:iiT« < b r^ay
good thing for ack pe<i(»le w ^c ibcif^ m besila ) and
position all reoaauneiided ix, it never ms made a sua-
toTT station, whether on ^xx^am of the andior&rt:. cr
because *^ Bono Fian^ais * did imx like us x^j r:* ibvj^e
without him, and wcnijd but go hlziscl^ cr Sjt b.iih
leamns combined I am not preftitri^d lo s&t. The
barren roc^ and mouiitaiiLS of the O.ra ouast were
repast in three days, its toibolent az>d n^iiiir w&ieis
(Jougfaed ; and on Friday evening, the i:> J:t of AprO,
the ^Granada* felt her way down the n^r-Jx or
Lyeemoon Channel and re-eiiteitd the hsAxr of
Hong K(Nig, while the lights frjm tLe hun^dr&is of
diips resting on its still wateis, azid those froai the
town and from the hill, as they shone in the ckar
air, looked from the distance like the stars in a LrJe
finnamenL

On Tuesday night, the 20th June, we amved in
the 'Granada' at Talienwhan (the bay or harbour of
Talien), and steamed slowly in. The Admiral baA
already arrived, and guided by his ** bri^t partinlar
star,** for he, of course, had a light or lights where no
one else dared to cany them, — though where it is I
cannot tell you, the oflBcer in command of the ship
knew, and that is always enou]di tor me when at sea.
We dr(^)ped anchor in ^ Victoria Bay.** Talienwhan

56 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

is a large bay, some twenty miles long or deep, by
about nine miles wide. It may be described in the
words of Virgil, if my memory does not fidl me : —

" Est in seoessQ longo locus : insula portom.
Efficit objectu latenim, quibas omnis ab alto
FrangitoTy inque sinus scindit sese unda reductos."

The Island is there, doubtless, in the centre of the
harbour's mouth, but I can hardly say that " omnis
unda firangitur," as there is sometimes a swell inside.
Sad would have been our fate if we had dispensed
with the anchor as in the bay Virgil speaks of; there
was no " atrum nemus imminet umbra ** for us there ;
as to the " nympharum domus," there was only one
nymph in the whole fleet, and she was not a classical
one. It was a fine sight as you went on deck in the
morning to look round on that large fleet of trans-
ports and men-of-war and merchantmen of diiSerent
nations, — American, Dutch, French, and English, all
hired by our Government to convey our troops and
stores; and then they had all arrived without a
casualty, either in small fleets, or dropping in by
two or three at a time, and now you might count
them by hundreds.

The General knew that the French would not be
ready for some weeks (we were quite prepared), so
the troops were to be disembarked and encamped.
We occupied three stations in different parts of this
large harbour. Victoria Bay, farthest of the three
from the entrance, and about eight or nine miles fix)m
the point most remote fix)m the mouth, affords excel-

THE SCENERY. 57

lent anchorage. Here the First Division was landed
and pitched their tents close to the shore, on fields
of growing maize. Sir John Michel was in com-
mand, and throughout this campaign maintained the
character which he had previously so well earned
both at the Cape and in India, as a firstrrate officer,
both in cantonments and on service. The Royal
Engineers were very busy in sinking wells and
making reservoirs in the natural watercourses with
which the place abounds, but these beds of streams
were now dry and water was not very plentiful;
still the men managed to get enough. This camp
lay on the left as you come up the harbour. On
the opposite side, or right from the entrance and
nearer to it, lay "Hand Bay," where the Second
Division was encamped ; the ground was more undu-
lating and picturesque. And nearer still to the
harljour mouth and on the same side was "Odin
Bay,** the most sheltered anchorage of all, with an
abundance of water; this was given to the cavalry
and artillery as their station, than which nothing
could be more suitable.

The general character of the scenery is of this sort
The hills are abrupt and rocky on both sides of the
Ijay for a considerable distance, sheltering nothing but
blue pigeons and huge owls ; as the bay recedes they
gradually lose their steep sides, and slope gently for
a mile or more to the water's edge, afiTording a good
lielt of arable land at the foot, and pasture for sheep
to the top. These hiUs are intersected by numerous

58 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

and deep ravines, which give unmistakable signs of
being very heavily flooded at times, but they are now
quite dry ; though when the " wet season *' occurs in
the north of Chma I have yet to learn, as I have had
personal experience of it from June to May, and
I never saw yet two days* rain in succession, nor yet
one whole day's rain even during that period, while
I have known weeks and months when not a drop
has &Ilen. Of dust storms I know too mudi, but
as to rain, when you have not seen it for many weary
weeks, and the very marrow of your bones is parched
up, and your skin has become like a very old shoe,
through the aridity of the atmosphere; when the
paper cracks and peels off the wall, and the best
made, seasoned, iron-bound box will crack, and your
hair, cut short, splits ; then how you do sigh if only
for one shower, a few drops how gratefiiL They must
get rain at some time at Talienwhan, but when, I
know not, and I fancy it is uncertain, as when the
country people at " Wahiway," which is in the neigh-
bourhood, were asked when it would rain, they burst
out laughing and inquired " how they could be ex-
pected to tell that? they could tell when it had
rained last, but who could tell when it would rain
again."

For the last six or seven miles the bay narrows
and shoals considerably, and there are several miles
of arable land on each side between it and the hills,
studded with villages, which are all planted and
shaded with trees, while in the distance, seen as you

IUKFICULTY IN PROCURING COUNTRY PRODUCE. 59

lu>k up towards the far end of the harbour, some
fifteen or twenty miles off, rises a chain of very
resiiectable-Iooking mountains. Three or four miles
from the First Division camp and further inland, a
station was subsequently formed for the military
train.

The country people upon our first approach, had
removed their fiunilies and their stock from every
village within four or five miles of the shore ; but
the men themselves in general remained, apparently
not fearing any personal injury fit)m us. At Victoria
Bay, the camp of the First Division, it was impos-
sible to procure a supply of country produce of any
kind Occasionally, indeed, some villager from a
distance would drop in with a few eggs or fowls, and
he was seized upon and his basket bought up in a
moment The soldiers had their salt rations of course,
but the soldier is not a good cook and cannot get on
so well upon ^^ junk ** as the sailor. The heat of the
sun was very trjing, although generally tempered by
a searbreeze, and the result was that there was a good
deal of dysentery and diarrhoea among the men,
and several deaths occurred. The Second Division
at Hand Bay was rather more fortunate ; there was a
much greater extent of country' under cultivation on
their side of the harbour, and they succeeded in pro-
curing a proportion of fresh provisions, fowls, sheep,
and vegetables. But the best market was at the
cavalry camp at Odin Bay, but even there it was
oeoessar}* to be early in the market if you were

60 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

anxious for a supply. The officers shared the same
0ite as the men. Many regiments had large sup-
plies of preserved meats, and plenty of beer and wine
an, hoard shipy but as usual in such cases, tliat which
was most wanted could not be procured, and the case
was too often similar to that memorable one in the
Crimea, when the medicines were discovered to have
been placed beneath the shot and shell. Thus the
officers were obliged to do without all the supplies
which they had brought on from India, and some
regiments eventually got but a percentage of their
stores, for when they were landed afterwards at
Takoo, quantities of them were put on shore by Jack
Tar, below high-water mark, — cases, containing all
sorts of property, uniform, winteivclothes, wines, beer,
pickles, preserves, were floated out to sea and were
never heard of again, while the confusion consequent
upon such a scene afforded a sort of opportunity for
plunder, and the British sailor was not slow to avail
himself of it I was informed that he might have
been seen seated amidst a chaos of cases, burst open,
diving first into one, then into another; up came a
bottle of champagne (he had had a few already) ; he
looked at it for a moment " I say, BiU, here's more

of that champagne again (flinging away the

flask in disgust) ; I wonder where there's some more
brandy, that's the stuff, lads." I cannot say where
the whole blame of this disgraceful proceeding rested,
but there must have been something very defective
in the arrangements between the two services as to

THE SEOOTINO OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. 61

the landing of these stores, or it could not have
occurred.

The weather was, on the whole, as fine as could
be expected ; we had some showers, a storm or two
of short duration, in one of which many of the tents
of the First Division were blown down in the night ;
while every one, especially the unhappy ones who
were left tentless, was blinded and choked by dust,
for the soil, a peculiarly fine, sandy loam, rose with
the wind in an impalpable powder, and penetrated
wherever the air reached. Drill, which is not exactly
a pastime, was the only occurrence which diversi-
fied the monotony cS the existence of the army for
six weeks at this most dull place ; there was, indeed,
one hare in the neighbourhood of Victoria Bay, and
she afforded much sport, as though always to be
found, no one could shoot her ; I am certain that
many a hungry gaze was fixed upon her as she
cantered up the hill, both barrels having been fired
in vain, salt junk is not good for a constancy. It
was not considered safe to go &r beyond the precincts
of the camp except armed, and with a tolerably strong
porty. S<»ne naval people were near getting into
trouble upon one occasion; they went some distance
up the harbour beyond Victoria Bay, to a village,
where it was asserted by the villagers that they had
been guilty of some outrage and shot one of the peo-
ple ; they were however surrounded, disarmed, their
hands tied, and they were marched back to their
boats ; the arms were afterwards delivered up ; and

62 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

if they were the aggressors, as it would appear that
they were, they escaped much better than they de-
served.

CoL Anson, A.D.C., and I rode one day from
Victoria Bay all round the harbour to Odin Bay,
the cavalry station, and a very pleasant ride it was.
Our friends took a kind adieu of us the night before
we started, and told us that the first inquiry they
would make at Pekin would be for us, as there could
not be a doubt that we should be captured by the
natives, and sent there in cages, unless indeed we
were rash enough to show fight, in which case we
would have our heads cut off, and they would go to
Pekin in our stead. We were undeterred, however,
by their "chaff." We both wanted to go to Odin
Bay, and we felt that a ride would do us all the
good in the world, having been shut up on shipboard
so long (" in prison with a chance of being drowned"),
and there was a shade of adventure in the ride which
made it pleasant, as we should travel in an enemy's
country, by unknown paths where no European had
ever been before.

Having taken some provisions in our saddle-bags
and wallets for ourselves, and some grain for our
horses, and being well armed, we left the camp at Vic-
toria Bay at six o'clock in the morning. The day was
delightftilly fine, although of course the sun was hot;
but our heads were well defended by white felt hel-
mets and large " puggcries," and (no less important
matter) our loins and livers by ample " cumberbnnds."

OUR RIDE. 63

A " puggery,** I must tell you, is a piece of cotton or
silk of any colour (white is the best), some yards long,
which Ls wrapped round the hat or cap to protect the
head from the powerful rays of the sun; and a ^^ cum-
berbund** is ditto ditto, but longer of course, wrapped
round the waist Thus accoutred, we wound our way
for some miles along the border of the harbour until
we reached its extremity inland, when we turned it
to our right, and here we were a little perplexed ; to
keep along the shore would be to lengthen our ride
very much, which must under any circumstances ex-
ceed forty miles, and in many places this road would
not be practicable, as the cliffs were precipitous and
not to be ridden over ; we must therefore strike in-
land, but we did not like to venture too far into the
coontry, as the natives had reported to the consular
interpreters attached to the army that there was a
walled town, some few miles in that direction, gar-
risoned by Tartar troops, in&ntry and cavalry, and
we had no ambition to &11 into the hands of these
Philistines ; we determined therefore to march across
country, on a lofty peak which rises behind Odin
Bay, Sampson's Peak, and not to go through villages
except when we could not avoid it The country was
quite unenclosed, and hilly with patches of cultivation.
For some miles after we had turned the end of the
harbour, the only obstacl'^ which we encountered
were deep watercourses, now dry, through which, at
mme season or other, torrents must rush from the
hills, as their sides and beds bear unmistakable signs

64 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

of the &ct Our resolution about avoiding villages
was soon tried, for as we turned the side of the hill we
found below and in our front a large village, and we
soon perceived that we had been seen, by the com-
motion which took place ; the house-doors were shut,
and the men, collected in groups of ten or twenty,
watched us intently. The guUeys already spoken of
p^vented us from keeping on the hill-side and leav-
ing the village on our left; and to pass it on the
right it would have been necessary to turn about and
make a considerable cuxjuit, which would have be-
trayed our suspicions to the inhabitants, and this we
were too proud to do ; so we turned our horses' heads
down the hill and made for the houses. The first
group we came to we pulled up and saluting after the
&shion of the country, that is, by each man shaking
his own hand ; we asked for some water, keeping our
eyes open all the time, lest our country friends should
attempt any assault upon us. Our request was com-
plied with, with great alacrity and good humour, and
we soon saw that there was nothing but a friendly
feeling towards us ; the ice-cold water, too, from the
shaded well was delicious after a three hours' ride in a
hot morning sun. We soon became excellent friends
with the country folks ; the group became a crowd,
and even some children stole quietly near us, evi-
dently having a great amount of fear to overcome.
Gardens, as usual, were attached to their houses, and
here we saw and smelt the fi'agrant, the delicious
onion, the soldier's best friend (when campaigning).

THE SOLDIER'S BEST FRIEND. 05"

not indeed when at home, he enjoys other sweets
which forbid its use, " Hulloa," I called out, "Anson,
thini*s scallions,'* thinking of a story I had heard of,
as having happened at the Curragh camp. One of the
staff there, who was rather a " bahaudoor,** walked
down to the market one morning, and seeing a large
bunch of green vegetables lying at a vegetable stall,
gave it a kick with his foot, and asked, "Ah I whooafs
tha-aat?** "Thim's scallions, captain,** replied the
native woman. " Scallions ** I rejoined the dragoon,
** whoaat are scallions ? ** "Oh thin be dad, captain,**
said she, " they're an article that if you were afther
atin a fishtfull iv thim, you wouldn't have the face
to be after goin to kiss your mistress.** As we,
however (worse luck for us), had no little chances of
that sort in prospect, we made signs for some glori-
ous little green onions that were growing over the
wall ; off went the natives and produced a bundle of
them, which we divided, and tied to the dees of our
saddles, rejoicing in the prospect of this addition to
our break&st In order to impress the native mind
with the purity and honesty of our intentions, I in-
sisted upon the owner of the garden paying himself
for oar "scallions** out of a string of cash, and I
indulged myself by giving the rest among the chil-
dren in the crowd.

Thus we took leave of the friendly villagers and
resumed our ride ; a few miles brought us to another
cluster of houses, and as we saw that the only chance
of shade and water was among the abodes of the

F

66 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

natives, and nature began to clamour for breakfiust,
we detennined to halt in the village and feed our-
selves and our horses ; so riding up the main street,
we pulled up under a friendly tree and asked for
" sueah,** pointing to our cattie. " Ah 1 sueah, sueah^**
was the friendly reply, and soon the horses* heads
were buried in the buckets of delicious, cold, spring
water; a crowd of course collected round us, and we
at once displayed our confidence in the natives and our
determination to make ourselves at home, by taking
the bits out of our horses* mouths, producing our
grain-bags and slacking our girths. Then having
taken care of our good steeds, we sat down on a wall,
the centre of an admiring throng, pulled out our
bread and meat and began to feed. Curiosity soon
began to display itself on the part of the natives ;
they tasted our sherry, but liked some brandy from
A.*s flask better, especially one old fellow with one
eye, who would have got drunk on the spot if he had
had a chance ; then our food, too, they appeared to
approve of, and our tobacco was quite popular; our
dress, arms, and saddlery, everything, in short, was
minutely inspected, and they readily comprehended
the five-shot revolver ; the native who was looking
at it dropping his arms and opening his mouth, as if
dead, as he pointed to each chamber of the breach.

At length we bade farewell to our numerous friends
and started once more on our journey, nor did we
call another halt until we reached the welcome camp
of the Second Division at Hand Bay, and having been

HAND BAT. 67

hospitably entertained by the General, Sir R Xapi^,
we aooom|dished oar last five mOes to Odin Bar, and
pot op for the night with our friends at the cavaby
camp. This was by fiatr the most picturesque ci our
stations at Talienwhan. The bay was neariy land-
locked, and some of the hills aromxl it were almost
ambitions enon^ to be called mountains, the dopes
leading to their bases undulated in various directions,
which gave a most pleasantly regular irregularity to
the landscape, while you could take in, aknost at one
view, from some points, the camp of every regiment
of cavaliy and each battery of artillery, with the
tents of a wing of the old 99th about the centre ;
while a most diminutive temple, with gods in a ruin-
ous condition, on the sea-shore, marked the head-
quarters of General Crofton.

Those splendid horses picketed by the tents
added much to the beauty of the scene; and some-
how the cavalry soldier is generally a clean, smart,
well got-up man, and on this campaign, whenever
and wherever the £jng*s Dragoon Guards turned
out, whether on parade or in the field, every strap
and bit and buckle was as bri^t, neat, and cor-
rect, as it would have been at a general inspec-
tion at home ; and the turn-out of our artillery was
equally good. The troops here were ako, as I
have said before, much better oflF for fresh provisions.
General Crofton, R.A., who commanded at Odin Bay,
had established a very successful market, and many
a cock and hen was to be seen tethered in the rear

p 2

68 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

of the tents, not that they were destined to remain
there very long, being required to relieve from duty,
salt junk, gone on leave of absence after a long and
arduous (for the eater) service. If I recollect right,
however, Desborough's battery went so &r as to keep
a pet cock, which I and others looked upon as a great
and extravagant indulgence of feelings not at all war-
ranted under the circumstances. If he (the cock) had
been over at the First Division camp, at Victoria Bay,
his life would not have been worth five minutes' pur-
chase, whereas here he strutted about quite safe among
the officers* tents.

This walled town, Hangkow I believe it was
called, and of whose garrison we had heard such re-
ports, was to be the subject of a reconnaissance on the
day after our arrival ; the reserve of the army was to
be left at Odin Bay, batteries were erected on com-
manding positions so as to fortify the place from at-
tack either by sea or land, and it was deemed ex-
pedient that we should know the truth as to the
Tartar force which was reported to occupy Hang-
kow, that we might not have an enemy in any
force behind us when we advanced against the Takoo
Forts. Having procured fresh horses, we started at
about nine a.m., with a party of Fane's Horse, for
this place some ten or twelve mQes oflT, having ascer-
tained the whereabouts of the town. Our appear-
ance, as we cantered along through villages and past
farm-houses, caused no small sensation, but when we
stopped occasionally to make some inquiry or to get

THE CHIEF MANDARIN. 69

a drink of water, the people were all civility. An
hoor^and-arhalf 8 riding brought us in yiew of the
town^ when Fane called a halt, and the ground gave
OS a good view of the place. We could see that
there were a number of guns on the &ce of the wall
next to us, and there was a great excitement created
in the suburbs by our sudden appearance, as the people
hurried towards the town, and the waQs were soon alive
with civilians, and some soldiers among them; we
announced our peaceable intentions by the consular
interpreter, who accompanied the reconnaissance, and
riding on to the town, sent a message to request an
interview with the chief Mandarin. On our arrival
we found the gate shut The ditch had been lately
deepened and widened, and the messenger returned
to the top of the gate to report that the chief Man-
darin was not in the town but outeide, and that if we
retired into the suburb, he could be sent for, and
would no doubt meet us there.

This we knew to be a fidsehood, and returned
an answer pretty much to that effect Another
messenger speedily arrived, requesting us to re-
tire to a temple about half-a-mile off in the plain^
and assuring us that the Mandarin would meet
us there at once. We rode over to the temple
and waited there for half-an-hour, but no one came.
It appeared to have been used as a barrack, for
there were a number of targets l^ing about which
had been recently used for "ball practice,** and
aome other warlike materiel. Wearied of waiting.

70 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

we returned to the town and met "the swell**
coming round the wall, having evidently made his
exit by another gate. He drove up in " a cart and
pair/' a mule leading a pony tandem, but yet not
very sporting-looking, attended by a couple of out-
riders, and a crowd of the inhabitants amounting to
about 2000.

They were all very peaceable and very curious,
the consular interpreter extracted all the information
which was required from the greasy-looking old
gentleman who, although dressed in sky-blue satin,
seemed ignorant of soap and water. He said that
there were no troops in the town except the ordi-
nary force necessary to protect the inhabitants from
pirates, &C., &c. ; and having received friendly assur-
ances from us, and a cordial invitation to trade in
country produce, accompanied by a hint that the
safety of the town and adjacent country might de-
pend upon the liberality with which supplies were
sent into the market at Odin Bay; he took his
leave, and expressed his intention of paying his
respects to General Crofton next day. The next
day accordingly brought him over to camp, and
mutual exchange of presents having taken place be-
tween him and the General, most amicable relations
were established, and the result was a marked im-
provement in the Odin Bay market

OENEBAL MONTAUBAN. 71

CHAPTER V.

Weagbed Anchor for Pekin^Ltnding— Our KTouao— Cockn«ch Brotli

— Colonel AnsoQ — ^ArriTed at Petang — LaDding — ^Tea— Petang —
Colonel Roa»— The Military Train— Difficulty of Transport

Each Division was reviewed by Sir TL Grant ; and
every regiment was foond to be in excellent order;
the C<Nnmander^in-Chief of the French^ having arrived
from Chee Foo, was present at the inspection of the
cavalry and artillery, and expressed himself^ as well
he mi^t» astonished at the neatness and precision with
which both arms of the service tamed out Every-
body was weary oi ^ Talienwhan,** and we began to
fear that winter wonld overtake ns before we should
reach Pekin^ and that we should not ^'get home
this aatomn,'' which appeared to be the grand desire
of everybody ; and anything bat blessing was poured
upon the heads of oor allies who were not ready, and
had thus detained us a month* ^* Why doesn't the
General go oa without them,** cries the enthusiastic
Ensign. *^ We don't want them ; I wish they were all
at home. What's the use of keeping us in this stupid
place to please old Montanban ? Why, we'd have been
at Pekin before now if we hadn't been stuck here,
doing nothing." Such was the feeling of our youth ;

72 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

and at last Thursday, the 26th of July, arrived, and
with just enough breeze and no more, our gallant
fleet weighed anchor, and set sail for the rendezvous,
about twenty miles south of the Peiho. Never did I
witness a more imposing sight, — ships of every build
and tonnage, under canvas and steam, spread over
the water as &r as the eye could reach ; half across
the world from Old England, bearing her gallant
sons to chastise a treacherous and haughty power,
an expedition self-contained and independent of all
contingencies, with stores of every kind ready and
at hand, and wanting nothing which human foresight
could provide, human skill procure, or English gold
could buy. Far off to the south-west, the smoke of the
French steamers was to be seen as their fleet steered
to the same point, and next day, the English first,
and then the French, anchored at the rendezvous.

Early on the 30th the fleet sailed some miles
fiirther inshore and anchored at about ten miles
from the Peiho forts and twelve fix)m Petang, where
we were destined to land. It had been proposed at
first that the Allied forces should take different
sides of the Peiho river, the British landing to the
north, the French to the south, and that thus a com-
bined attack should be made on the forts north and
south at the same time ; but when Major Fisher, RE.,
had completed his valuable surveys of the coast,
this plan was found to be impracticable, but he
gave us the cheerfiil intelligence that the Petang
river was open, unbarred and unstaked, and that

WEIGHED ANCHOB. 73

both the forts which defended its entrance were open
in the rear, and therefore to be thos taken. I do
not know any officer employed upcm this expedition
to whom its good fortune is more to be attribated
than to Major Fisher, R.E., or anyone who performed
as great an amount of hard work and with equal
success. The weather was not pn^itious on the
Slst, the sea was too rou^ for the laundies to be
towed inshore, and so the kmding was put off till
next day; we hailed a heavy fitU of rain oa the
nHxning of the 1st of August, as a good omen, it
*^ beat down the sea ; ** and at about eleven we left the
fleet, the gunboats towing the launches fiUed with
men. I think I counted fifteen of those most useful
little vessels, equally valuable to fight as for their
present employment The Force consisted of the
Second Brigade of the First Division, which com-
prised three regiments, the 2nd (Queen's), the
2nd Battalion 60th Rifles, and the 15th Pmrjaub
Infimtry, together with some Royal Artillery with
rocket tubes, and a company of Sappers. The
French had an equal force, making in all about 5000
men. We crossed the bar of the Petang river all
ri^t, and anchored within less than a mile of the
nearest Fort, which is on the ri^t or south bank of
the river, the other Fort lying half-a-mile further up
oa the c^posite side. Here we remained a weary
two hoars, waiting until the tide should rise to its
hi^iest in order that, if possible, the men might kmd
dry. In this hope the Admiral was disappointed, and

74 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

about four o'clock the signal was given to land. We
had all been ordered to bring the inyariable ^^ three
days' cooked rations ; " mine consisted of some ham
sandwiches, a flask of sherry, and a tin water-bottle
filled ; these I consigned to my Madras boy whom
I managed to smuggle on shore. Those three days'
cooked rations are a delusion, as we all learned after-
wards, as it is absurd to suppose that meat carried in
a haversack, by the side of a marching soldier, could
keep for twenty-four hours in China.

The French landed a short time before us. The
signal to land had been made, but a delay was
ordered by the Admiral when he perceived that the
water on the bank was too shoal to permit the boats
to get near the shore, and by this means our Allies,
who heeded it not, got the start of us by a few
minutes. Soon, however, we followed, and jumped
into the water nearly up to our middle, with a very
soft bottom of sticky mud. I pulled off my long
boots and socks, retaining however my " shorts," and
having waded some hundreds of yards in water and
mud, I had about a mile of mud alone, before I
reached dry ground. Here the troops were halted
for a short time and formed, the French on the left
and we on the right, next the forts and the town of
Petang, which is built on the right bank of the river.
I could not help casting a glance now and then at the
Fort next us (we were within easy range of it), ex-
pecting to see that puff of smoke, which would tell
that the war had indeed began.

LANDING. 76

We presented a rather ludicroos appearance that
eyeniDg as we halted on firm ground. One officer
with a knife scraping the tenacious mud from his
feet and legs before he put on his stockings and
boots; another, less wise, trying the effect of a
fine cambric pocket-handkerchief; while a third
found a small pool of water as large as a slop-basin,
and enjoyed a ** glorious wash.'' One brigadier, a
most energetic officer, had taken the precaution
to remove not only his boots but his ^^what-shall-
I-call-them," and enjoying the advantage of a very
short shirt and a jacket, it was not a sight one
saw everyday ; when thus in *^ undress ** he ordered
the men to ^come to attention and shoulder,** and
marched at their head as boldly as if he had been
attired with the most scrupulous care.

During this halt on terra frmoj we saw a number
of horsemen riding along a bund, or causeway, some
three-quarters of a mile off on our left front ; they
came out of the town over a bridge and rode off in
the direction of the Peiho; this was our first si^tof
the fiu^fiuned Tartar cavahry, which like a whirlwind
was to sweep us bom the &ce of the earth I By the
time we reached the bund it was getting dark ; it was
pretty evident that no resistance was to be offered to
us here, and for obvious reasons it was determined
that we should not enter the town that night : so it
was a dear case of bivouac

This was the first great mistake which the Tartar
generals made in this campaign. If they had op-

76 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

posed OS in force at our landing, they might have
damaged us very seriously, if not driven us back.
They had cover for any number of men and guns
behind the causeway which stretched out from the
town, and up to which we must advance. The right-
hand Fort commanded us from the moment we landed,
their cavaby could have manoeuvred on the last
half-mile of ground over which we had to march ; we
had not a horse with us. The French had some ten
or twenty Spahis mounted on Japan ponies, and a
couple of things like poj^uns on wheels, while we had
not so much as a bush to shelter us, and had they
been aware of our movements, which they mi^t
have been, and taken advantage of their strong posi-
tion, they mi^t have done us more harm than they
were able to do m the whole of the rest of the cam-
paign ; we should have had nothing to oppose them
but the bayonet, as they had almost perfect shelter
from our rifles.

But no, with their extraordinary ideas, they be-
lieved that we were, according to the rules of war,
hound to go direct at the Peiho forts, and there-
fore they did not oppose us at Petang; although
they had to a certain extent contemplated our
landing there, and knew that we had surveyed the
coast, they chose rather to trust to the natural
difficulties which presented themselves, than to arti-
ficial defences. A like train of reasoning led them
afterwards to complain that it was ^extremely vtir
fair ** that we should have brought cavalry in this

BIVOUAC, 77

expedition^ because we never had brought any to
China in any previous war. So much for the morals,
with the arts of logic and war combined, taught
by (^onfiicins, Menchius, and Sangkolinsin.

Xight was coming on, nothing was in sight but
a dreary waste of mud. No friendly tope of trees
offered its shade from the harmful rays of a full moon,
which, as in the country in which the Psahnist David
lived, ^ smite thee by ni^t,** producing effects often
worse than those of a noonday sun.

Some of us had a blanket, some a waterproof sheet,
all had enough to eat, but alas ! we had little or no
water, that first and last of requisites for humto life,
water. I could not help reflecting, as I sat down I
parched with the day's heat, and weary of doing that
most tiresome of all things, nothing^ how often I had
walked along the bank of some sparkling brook, and
never dreamed how precious was the living water
that flowed so abundantly at my feet, nor deigned to
vboop and drink and thank God for it What would
I not then give for just one draught of it 1 How pre-
cious, yet how abundant had it been I Now its true
value was made known and felt because we had
it not These things, I thought, are emblematic.
Reader, can you read what my thoughts pomted to ?

After some time, two energetic young oflBcers <tf
the staff volunteered to return to the boats and en-
deavour to get some water, and we patiently awaited
their return. Sir H. Grant had gone away in the
dusk, and reached the Bund along which the trcx>p6

78 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

were lying. On each side of it was a most offensive
ditch of water, which had, as an Irish soldier
pointedly remarked, a "Ho-goo off of it that was
able to knock you down, so it was/* Some distance
from this we sat down, or lay down, and had recourse
to the solace of the cheroot and pipe.

As I lay a thinking, I heard the cheery voices of a
party of blue jackets approaching us. " I say. Jack,"
said one, " this ere breaker's precious heavy now, but
Fm blowed if it won't be light enough soon." Quickly
I jumped to my feet, and ran, tin tot in hand, to
where I heard the sound. My tot was soon filled,
and, without waiting for my nose to do its duty as
sentry, and challenge and pass the friendly water into
the gate which lay below it, I drained the tot to the
bottom at a draught ; when, oh, horror of horrors !
how my interior rebelled, very nearly mutinied, when
I found I had drunk a very strong infusion of what I
most abhor in the world, cockroaches 1

This breaker had lain empty in the gunboat's hold,
their abode, their banqueting-haU, ball-room, dwell-
ing place, or castle. Jack, in his hurry to give those
" soldiers " a drink, had filled it with water, drowned
all their cares and joys, and churned all the contente
up into strong cockroach-broth, and — I had drunk
it 1 But after the first nausea had subsided, I said
to myself, " It was water at all events," and walked
back to my blanket much more slowly than I had left
it In another hour Wolsely and Wilmot returned
with a limited supply of the pure element, and we sat

WOODEN GUNS. 79

down as cheerily as possible to onr sapper, and soon
after I fell asleep. Meantime the guard of the 2nd
60th Rifles, which had been monnted at the gate
leading into the town, had ascertained that the place
was deserted ; this information was conveyed to Sir
H. Grant : and Mr. Parkes, ever foremost when vrork
was to be done or risk met, volnnteered to enter
the town alone and examine the fort.

He went eventually accompanied by Captain Wil-
liams of the 1st Royals, Depaty-Ajssistant Quarter^
Master-QenenU, and one or two of the 2nd 60th ;
they made their way to the fort, which they found
to be deserted, and having received information
that the place was mined, and that explosive mar
terials had been buried in various places in the fort,
which were so disposed that they would blow up
when pressed upon by a man's weight, they re-
turned to head-quarters, satisfied with some flags as
trophies, and the information that aU the guns had
been removed fix>m the fort except some wooden
^dummies," hooped with iron.

At about one o'clock the Tartars made a recon-
noissance ri^t up to the Bund ; it was impossible
for us to ascertain their force. They were first dis-
covered advancing cautiously along the hard mud
by a sentry of the 2nd 60th, who soon gave them
the contents of his rifle ; this aroused other soldiers
of the same regiment, and they, following his ex-
ample, the Tarters soon retired, leaving, however,
proofe, which were found next morning, that they

80 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

had not got off scatheless, as a dead horse was fonnd
and the accontrements and arms of several soldiers,
whose bodies had been removed dead or wounded.

At about three o'clock in the morning I was
wakened by Anson, who was returning from the
ships, having landed one of the Commander-in-
Chiefs chargers and his own. A hard night's work
he had of it, having traversed back and forwards
several times that weary, wet, and sticky mud, two
or three miles, first on one duty then on another,
but as active, gay, uncomplaining, and untired as a
thorough soldier should be, and I know no man to
whom that title more truly belongs than to him. It
was no easy matter to land highly-bred Arab horses
fresh from shipboard in that horrid mud, where they
sank up to their hocks at every step ; but he brought
them up all right, and being wakened by his cheery
voice, I and Mr. Boulby, who woke at the same
time, got up, and agreed to go on with him about
a mile fiirther, to where Sir H. Grant was, beyond
the bivouac of the 60th Rifles, who were nearest to
the town and on the Bund.

Knowing that I had to cross a deep, muddy,
and stinking ditch (I may as well begin boldly and
use the word at once, as there is no other in the
language of any use while we remain at Petang),
I followed the example of my 'friend the Brig&-
dier, and started in my jacket and shirt, carrying
the rest of my gear. We blundered along in the
dark, and at length reached the ditch, which sepa-

COIiONEL ANSON. 81

rated the flat mod from the raised caoseway ; I made
a bdd plange and floondered through up to my
hips in water and filth, but Anson had a hard time
in palling through with his chargers. Indian syces
are not of much use in a difficulty of that sort, he
had to do everjrthing himself and with a great deal
of floundering and struggling the frightened animals
were got across.

We had to pick our way along the Bund, among
the weary soldiers still asleep and lying in every at-
titude, and scMuetimes were obliged to disturb one
or two to make way for the horses. Having reached
cor destination we lay down, Anson to sleep, I, only
to think how very bad the smell was ! But where
were the Tartars? where the fiunous Sankolinsin
all this time ? Not at Petang, at all events, for
we remained undisturbed until daybreak, got up,
and thanks to Anson's powers as a commissariat
officer (for he presided over all the General's ar-
rangements in that department) and to Sir 11.
Grant's hoqiitality, we had a capital breakfast of
cold meat of all sorts, and claret-and-water to wash it
down with, which, after all the yet unslacked thirst
of the night before, was very gratefiiL It had been
arranged on the previous night that the Conunanders-
in-€3iief of both armies should proceed into the town
at 5.30 to take possession of it, and at the hour
named we marched through the town and up to the
fort The town was divided in rather an irr^^ilar
manner between us and the French, ^ bono Francy,"

o

82 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

as nsoal, not having tiie worst of it You perceive
that he is not modest, and always claims at the least
his right, and that is a great way of getting through
the world.

The Fort we found to be a very strong place, with
embrasures for twelve guns. There were two Cava-
liers joined by a Curtain, the former from 30 to 40
feet high, the latter about 15. It was built of mud
and straw, and finished with great care, and would
have stood a vast amount of pounding. It was sur-
rounded by a wide and deep ditch, crossed by a bridge
in the rear, which opened on the town. Some Sap-
pers set to work and dug up the infernal machines,
which had been laid as traps for us. They consisted
of shells filled with powder and bullets, four or five
shells in each machine ; these were to be ignited by
fuses, set on fire by a flint and steel. The affair was
carefully covered over by a thick mat, and the earth
so well laid down over it that the most cunning eye
could not detect any difference between it and the
surrounding clay. A slight weight pressii^ on the sur-
&ce was supposed to set off a spring, which would
strike the flint and steel, ignite the fiise, and blow
up the unfortunate invaders ; but the fiiendly natives
saved us fix>m this mischance.

Having inspected this Fort, and admired the
wooden guns, the question arose, '^ what is to be
done next?" I bethought me of a certain tea-
shop which I had seen open in the town, not fiur
off, and I had a dim vision of a wash in the dis-

TEA. 38

tance. I oommimicated my ideas to two or three

of oar party, and, among others, to Lord R. Gt^ who /. :,r ' 6^^ j...*,

had joined the expedition at Talienwhan as an

amateur. So, bringii^ oar towels, we returned to

the town, and soon found the teanshop, where we

were moet politely received; and one of the first

things I saw was that roller of cord or twine above

my head, which I used to see long ago when I was a

little boy at the grocer's shop at Oswestry, when I

drove in from the country with my mother, and which

I could not help coveting, although I am sure I was

well taught at the time. Yes, that roller of twine

there it was — ^I heard just the same sound from it —

that first attracted my attention, and then I saw the

whole scene of my childhood in a moment : the iat,

black pony, and the phaeton, and my own little

seat that no one else could sit in, and Benjamin the

groom foUowii^ on horseback, and the dd * Cross

Keys* where the pony used to be fed — ^I wonder is

the * Cross Keys' there yet I I saw all in a moment

I wonder were all boys as covetous of twine as I was

at that age, w was I a sinner above others? Ididnot

want the roller of twine now, I did not covet it the

least; I could not help saying to myself^ ^ Yes, but

there are other things, and forbidden too, that you do

covet, why don't you think of them as of the twine ?

you will by-and-by."

We asked for tea, which is something like ^ char"
or ^^tzar;" and as some of us had a long leaway to
poll up in the drinking line, afler the previous night

o 2

84 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

of droughty the number of bowls of tea consumed
was &bulous. I felt myself just like the old lady
in * Pickwick,' at the temperance tea-party, whom
Mr. Weller declared to be "a swellin wisably be-
fore his eyes." This tea, remember, had none of the
seductions of sugar or milk about it, but then it was
not strong, nor was it good. You never do get good
tea in China; it seems a paradox, but so it ia If you
ask me why, I am sure I cannot tell you. I had
heard so before I came out, but I could not believe
it; now I do. Having laved the inner man, we
b^an to look about for something in the tub way,
and in the back-yard of our host's premises we found
some large earthenware crocks of clear water, cold
and fresh. I don't think I ever enjoyed a tub more,
after the weary day and night it was most refreshing.
Nor would our friend accept of any payment for a long
time, until at last we forced half-a-doUar upon him.

The day was occupied in taking up houses for the
troops, and sending away the unfortunate owners ;
and it was a pitiful sight to seem them going away,
and forced, by the suddenness of their exodus, to
leave their little properties behind them, none of
which they ever saw again. The ftimiture was used
for ftiel, the holes and puddles in the streets filled with
broken crockery, and all their stores of grain were
of course seized upon by the commissariat Sir H.
Grant, with the personal and head-quarter staff, occu-
pied the fort, which was little better than a bivouac
until some heavy rain obliged the use of tents. Pro-

PBTANG. 85

bjn's Rorse were there too, and some few artillery.
Everyone else was boosed in the town ; bat the fort
had this adyaatage, that it was oomparatively finee
from the stench of the streets. Daring the eleven
weary days that we oocapied Petang, it rained heavily
several times, and then the mad was feaifal along
the quay and throngh the streets.

Bat Petang, the vilest place in the world, deserves,
from its saperiative infiuny, a more fall description.
It is bailt apon the right bank of the river to
which it gives its name, and extends along it for
aboat a mile from the fort, which boonds it to
seaward. Like all small towns in China, the streets
are narrow, and sank below the level of the doors
o( the hooses from six inches to two or even three
feet One or two of the principal tboronghfiures
are partially flagged, bat in a rade manner. Into
these sunken streets the drainage of the houses
often flows, and is thas conveyed to an open
ditehf which separates a large portion of the town
into two nearly eqaal parts, and vents frwly every
compound of villanous smell that human nostril
ever was doomed to inhale. An old Irish cook-
maid, who lived with a mistress of a warm temper^
daring one of the visits of the cholera to that country^
was asked if she was much afraid of ^ the sickness,**
she replied, ^ Troth, and I am ; and why wouldn't I
be affeared of it But glory be to the Blessed Yirgin,
shore I say two prayers agin it every day and three
a^ the mistress.'* And if anyone were to compose

86 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

a Chinese Litany, I should propose that there were a
special clause inserted "agin Petang." To walk
through it for two days after rain was impossible
except in long boots, to ride or walk dangerous, as
it was very slippery ; and if you had once fidlen in
that mud you must lose your self-re£fpect for a long
time, if not for ever.

The gun-boats came up the river early on the morn-
ing of the 2nd, and threw a few shells into the fort
on the other side, dislodging some stray Tartars;
and in the course of the day the ^ Granada,' with
Lord Elgin and his staff on board, and the ^ Coro-
mandel,' were moored in the river off the town.
Then, indeed, a busy scene began. Most active pre-
parations were made for the landing of stores, am-
munition, artillery, cavalry, and in&ntry ; and every
credit is due to the Quarter-Master-Qeneral's depart-
ment, as well as to the naval authorities, for their
unwearied diligence, zeal, and skill in this most ardu-
ous and trying work.

The blue-jackets were to be seen toiling f5com day-
light till dark, erecting landingnstages on the muddy
banks of the river, while, all by himself, you saw
some tiny middy, who looked more like a toy sailor
than a real one, issuing orders in a would-be hoarse,
gruff voice (a dead fidlure by-the-by, the voice, I
mean, not the middy), to' some eight or ten sturdy
fellows over whom he presided, and was answered
by the cheery "Aye, aye, sir,'* of the British tar.
Towering above the rest, like Homer's hero, you

QUABTERMA8TEB-0ENEBAL. 87

might see Colonel Boss, of the QnartermasteivQene-
ral*8 department, stalking np and down the bank,
careless alike of burning snn or drenching rain,
watching and directing the landing of everything
and everybody ; one moment you see his head above
the crowd ; you look away for an instant, he is gone ;
where? It was only a tumble in the treacherous
mud of the river. Never mind, he is up and at it
again; don't laugh; ah I there you go down your-
self^ and serves you right fw laughing at other people.
Again ; yon meet, amidst all the bustle and jostling
and mud of the quay, elbowing his way among
saflors, Sikhs, coolies, bullocks, mules, horses, ponies,
stores, and soldiers, ever with a cheerful smile,
a pleasant and kind word for every one, and a
kindness that was not hollow or treacherous, but sin-
cere, Colonel M^Eenzie, Quartermaster^Gkneral of the
army in China ; if there was a joke to be made under
the most adverse circumstances he would make it, or
a bright side to any dark picture, he would show it
to you. "Well, M^Kenzie, what are you doing
oat in such weather as this ; it is impossible to do
anything in this rain?"* "Well, I don't exactly
know what I'm going to do" (with a slight accent
from "over the border," just what you would not
know) ; " all I know is that I'm at present engaged
in * opening up the trade with China,' and it's very
dirty woriL" Williams, too, of the Royals, was sure
to be about somewhere ; you wiU most probably find
him looking after the horses (he is safe to be on

88 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

horseback) ; and if there is a hard day's work to be
done you could not easily find so good a man to do
it While Wolseley, where is he ? Oh, he is making
a reconnoissance perhaps, if he can get half-ardozen
Sikhs (I believe he would just as soon go by hun-
self ), or making drawings of the country to guide
the Commander-in-Chief in his plans.

In the course of ten days every one was landed,
and all the stores and ammunition requisite for pre-
sent use, and the hours were anxiously counted by
every one until we should march out of Petang, and
advance against the forts of Takoo, or as the natives
caU it Hi Takoo (Takoo on the sea). The cavalry
had been disembarked in admirable order ; the deck of
a gun-boat being filled fix)m a transport, she steamed
over the bar and up the river, and the horses walked
out of her on one of the landing-stages. The poor
beasts, however, would hardly drink the half salt-water
of the river even at the lowest ebb, and in a short time
this must have told severely upon them, so that hours
even were of importance. The artillery got on shore
famously, guns and all ; and it was a sight to see the
drivers threading their way through the narrow and
tortuous streets, the horses up to their hocks in mud,
and slipping into one hole deeper than another until
they reached their quarters.

But the xmlucky corps was the Military Train.
Burthened with hundreds of animals, many, nay,
most of them, vicious and unbroken, with very
few Europeans, some Manillamen and Indian Syces,

DIFKICULTY OF TRANSPORT. 89

none of whom will ever do more than they can
possibly help, while not one soldier, and very few
of the officers, knew one word of any language bat
their own except "Jow" and "Jelde;** and yet
this mass of incongrooos materials thrown together
was supposed to be capable of righting itself at
onoe, and by some unknown and inexplicable pro-
cess <^ internal self-regulaticm, to step forth an
organized body and perform the transport of the
army. As reasonable would it be to take some
brass, scxne gold, some steel, scxne china, and a
few diamonds, with a small file or two, a pair of
pinchers, a magnifying-glass, and a man, shake them
up in a bag for five minutes, and expect to find a
patent lever-watch, jewelled in eight holes, sustaining
power, compensating-balance, and all the rest of it

The majority of tihie animals were Manilla and
Ji^nn ponies. The former, I have said already, were
landed at Hong Kong, in wretched condition, never
had recovered themselves, and arrived at Petang aU
but useless. The Japan ponies were larger, stronger,
and very vicious. The only quiet one I saw was
bought by Staff-Surgeon Home, V.C, and he died
very soon after. I believe the brute knew his lat-
ter end was coming, at else he felt too ^ seedy** to
show vice. These also were landed in a most miser-
able state, dying by scores, and filling the air with
a most pestilential stench, as their carcases lay aU
round the town and cm the banks of the river, bloated
and bursting with the damp heat and the powerful

90 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

rays of a vertical sun. The only efficient animals
were the Bombay mules and the Indian bullocks,
and these kept their health and did their work well
throughout the campaign, but they were compara-
tively few in number. The others for the most part
gradually melted away; and when the memorable
sale took place at Tien-Tsin at the close of the canu
paign, when Indian Arabs were a drug at ten pounds
the dozen, few, if any, of the Japan or Manilla ponies
appeared.

The Coolie corps was very efficient and admi-
rably organized by Major Temple, of the Indian
service, but quite unequal by themselves to accom-
plish the transport work. What was to be done ?
Why, in point of &ct, for staff and regiments
there was little or no transport; every man his
own transport was the order of the day. Some of
us had the honorary distinction of having two
coolies told off for our use, but it was purely hon-
orary, and the coolies were " mythical," or paper
coolies you might call them, for they were some-
how always wanted and you never had them.
Sixty or seventy pounds of baggage you were allowed^
but that came to mean the clothes on your back, and
the contents of your saddle-bags or wallets, if you
were fortunate enough to be a mounted officer.
Many officers had bought private baggage-animals
for themselves at Talienwhan, and for these they
were allowed to draw forage at the usual rate. I
remember at Talienwhan it was very amusing to

8MALL BAQGAQEBS. 91

see two or three fine young fellows, who would look
very well rolling down St James's or standing on
the steps of ^ the Rag,** who could tell you the odds
on the Derby to a nicety, and the winners for the
last twenty years, and always had their regular
studs in India, and when at home, a horse or two
and a trap. You know whom I mean. It was very
amusing to see one of them driving a little donkey
before him, by a long string, into camp ; he had
bought it for eight or ten dollars some four or five
miles off in a village, to carry his baggage, and he
was now bringing it home ; he looked rather " sheep-
ish** when he met you, but stiU tried to carry it off
with a swa^er, but it wouldn't do.

92 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER VI.

ReoonuoiaBanoe-^Leave Petang — ^The Cavalry — ^Advance of the Allied
Forces — ^The Tartars desert their Camp — The Second Division —
The Tartars charge our Gnns— The Tartar Soldier's Hut-*Pri-
soners — Lines on Moyse's Death — Chinese Documents — Chinese
Policy — Results of the Expedition.

A Beoonnoissanoe was made on the 3rd ; the force
consisted of about 2000 men, half French and half
English; we had no artillery, the French having
some small guns. Our men were from the 2nd
Queen's, 60th Rifles, and 15th Punjaub Regiment,
commanded by Brigadier Sutton. They marched
out about daylight along the causeway, and met the
Tartars about three miles from the town. The
French being in front received their fire first, and
threw out skirmishers on the r^ht, brought up their
guns, shelled the Tartars, and drove them back very
soon. When we came to the end of the causeway
the mud was tolerably dry, and we advanced, with
the French on the right The enemy stood again
at some houses, and fired upon us fix)m them, endear
vouring at the same time to outflank our force with
a numerous body of cavaby. From this position

LEAVE PETANG. 93

they were again driven by the French guns. We
immediately advanced, with skinnishers in front,
untQ we came to a large entrenched camp, and here
we kept up a game of "long bowls** at each other,
which did very little harm on either side, while we
waited for orders as to the storming of this position
fitHn head-quarters. The Gknerals decided that all
that was requisite had been done, and (although
some of Desborough's guns had arrived) sent the
troops home, as it would have been no use to take
the place without occupying it, and for this we were
not prepared Major Greathed got hit in the leg by
a q)ent ball, and a few of our men were slightly
wounded, also a few of the French ; and Anson was
near losing his charger, as a gingaU-ball went between
his legs.

It was a pitiable sight to see the fisunilies that
were turned out, and others, alarmed for their own
safety, moving off meekly and uncomplainingly with
their bundles of clothes and bedding, the women
walking, or rather tottering (no Chinawoman can
walk), along in strings or rows, led generally by the
eldest — ^the grandmother, then the mother, and last
the younger ones, and the &ther perhaps carrying
his inlant Poor people I they went up the river in
boats or sanpans, Paterfiunilias often up to his mid-
dle pushing the boat before him.

At length we left Petang. The morning was fine.
Sunday, the 12th. *^ Why maroh on Sunday?** some
one remarks; ^why not on Saturday or Monday;

94 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

a day could make no great difference?** It did^
however, make a difference, as the mud would bear
on Sunday, it would not on Saturday, and to get
out of the stench of Petang twenty-four hours
sooner was a very important matter for the health
of the men. Sir H. Grant, being a pious man,
would not, according to his judgment, willingly
desecrate the Sabbath, but I believe it has been
his fortune somehow to have a good many Sunday
fights in India, and we had in this campaign three
or four Sundays that were very un-Sunday like.
I can myself quite imagine the day of the week
being forgotten, and it requires no small effort while
campaigning to keep holy the Sabbath day ; in-
deed, it is sometimes impossible to do so. How-
ever, it happened that on Sunday we took Chusan,
on Sunday we marched from Petang, on Sunday we
marched from Tien-Tsin, and on Sunday first went
to the Ewenming Ewen; a feir proportion of Sunday-
work for a short campaign.

As we marched out of the town on to the Bund
which was to lead us in the direction of the Peiho,
we felt that the work was indeed beginning, and
experienced all the excitement consequent upon that
feeling. It had been highly amusing for many
days before to watch the armourers in Probyn*s
and Fane*s regunents, grinding, grinding, grinding by
day and night at their tulwars and lances; to see
the grim smile of pleasure which would light up the
face of the Sikh when he tried the edge of the blade

HATH I OmCIB: rAKK'S BOICU.

1b/aeeP9gt M.

THE CAVALRY. 95

npon his hand and found it keen as a razor, the amo-
rous glance which he would cast upon it as he con-
signed it to its sheath and gave it a loving pat Some-
times it was the look which told of many a deed of
blood done in former days as the flash of the large,
dark eye, bright still as in youth, lit up the grizzled
brow, and almost shone off the white moustache and
beard ; and scHnetimes it was the blush of hope ; some
as yet untried and youthful warrior saw before him
the path to that fieune and renown which his ancients
had earned since the earliest records of their race,
and which he had sworn should be his also; for
you must know that the sowars in these irregular
foments are men of some standing and position
among their own people ; fighting is their only legi-
timate profession ; it is their walk of life, they are
bora to it, and in it they die.

And right well did our cavalry look that Sunday
morning as they turaed off the Bund to the right
ak>ng with the Second Division, and the Armstrong
guns which wero intended to oppose the large ca-
valry force which was known to be encamped thero.
Probyn*s and Fane*s regiments I could never say,
throughout the campaign, to which, if called upon to
decide the question, I should give the palm, any
more than I could tell which of the two command-
ing officers was the finer soldier or the bettor fellow.
The horses, however, looked a little tucked up that
moraing, and no wonder ; and so did the dear, good,
<dd, stout, and solid King's Dragoon Guards, in spite

96 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

of all the care bestowed upon them, and there was
no lack of that by officers and men ; but then yon
know, as it was remarked afterwards very judi-
ciously, the ^ King's Dragoon Gruards were not used
to be fed upon birdrseed and salt-vxiter,** and so they
had not thriven upon it

We waited for nearly an hour, from about a
quarter-past six to a quarter-past seven, until the
Second Division, with the Armstrong gans, under
Sir R. Napier, and the Brigade of Cavalry, com-
manded by Brigadier Pattle, had filed off to the
right over a narrow pass made for them of planks
and straw over the sott mud near the Bund until
they reached the harder ground, some 150 yards
off. When they were feirly started, the First
Division marched on, commanded by Sir J. Michel,
and accompanied by the General Commanding-in-
Chief, the personal and head-quarter staff. This
weary Bund reached some four miles fit)m the town ;
but as all things human have an end, so we found
its end at last, and a rather moist end it was, for it
terminated in a salt swamp, in which the Royals and
31st, who were thrown out as skirmishers, found
themselves sometimes nearly up to their middle.
The rest of the troops, more fortunate, were able to
pick their ground and keep themselves compara-
tively dry.

After about a mile's march, feeling our way, we
came in sight of an earthwork, defended by the
Tartars. Flags of all sorts and colours waved

Wm^Ms^^^^W^^

CHASGK U# FANB*8 HOBSB.

9to /ao0 Pofft 97.

ADVANCE OF THE ALLIES. 97

above it, and we could see the enemy in some force
behind the work. The French moved up on our
left, and our guns and their rockets were broi^ht into
action. The Tartars replied from gingalls, but with-
out effect, and in a short time the work was de-
serted, and we moved on, the Tartars having re-
treated upon another large earthwork about a mile
further off. From this also we soon dislodged them,
although they made a better stand of it Here one
of the gunners of Desborough Batterj^ had his thigh
broken by a gingall-ball. I was al)Out twenty yards
behind the guns, and just in this poor fellow's line,
and as he fell before me I heard a splash, about the
same distance to the rear, another ball having &llen
in a pool of water behind me. I should have been
right glad at the moment to have been out of range,
but soon one's personal feelings became absorbed in
the larger interests of the day.

We could now both see and hear that the Second
Division and the cavalry had become engaged about
a mile off on our right, but they must wait We
poshed on, and found that our guns had told on some
of the Tartars in the work, and as we entered we
found their camp had been evacuated. The tents were
pitched inside a strong crenelated wall, with a ditch
outside, and they had left^ in great haste, deserting all
their little properties of pipes and "cash" and clothes,
bows and arrows, swords, matchlocks, ammunition,
and half-eooked food, glad to esca))e on any terms.
They fled towards Tankoo, along a raised cause-

II

98 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

way, and we treated them to a few shells and some
rockets as they cantered along. Of their numbers I
could form no estimate.

We marched on through the village of Sinho,
which was deserted except by some few old people
and by the pigs, and halted on a dry plain near a
creek of the Peiho, and close to some gardens, on
the right rear of the village.

The French pushed on along a raised causeway
to Tankoo, in the direction of the Peiho Forts,
supported by the 60th Kifles and 15th Punjaub
Infantry. Our Allies found the fire so hot, however,
and the Chinese guns so well laid along the cause-
way, that they retired upon Sinho, and bivouacked
in front of the village.

The Second Division under General Napier, as I
said, took ground to the right of the Bund some half
mile from the town of Petang. Attached to it, were
Milward's Armstrong Battery, and Sterling's, with
the whole of our cavalry under Brigadier Pattle. The
ground was not so hard as it had been expected, and
the guns and wagons soon got into difficulties in the
mud. But what will not the British soldier do when
he works with a will : the horses might sink to their
hocks, and the guns to the axle, but there were
stout ropes and stout sinews and good hearts enough
to pull them through by main strength, and it was
done, although it was considered more prudent to
dispense with some of the wagons, and they were
sent back.

THE SECOND DIVISION. 99

Nor did the cavalry escape in marching through
the same coontry. Twenty or twenty-one stone is
too much weight for a horse to carry in deep groond,
especially if he is expected to catch a retreating enemy
afterwards, and this the Eang's Dragoon Groards
found to their cost The Irregulars, of course, had
the advantage of lighter weights. Except videttes,
which retired on our advance, no enemy was seen
until the troops had arrived within rather more than
a mile of the town of Sinho, where the Tartar cavalry
swarmed out of their camps in large numbers, and
presented a strong front of more than a mile in
length. Three of Milward*s guns were in the centre
of our line and three more on our left; the cavalry
on the right with Sterling's guns, and the Buflb
skirmishing in front When Milward had got the
range, which he soon did, every shot took effect,
and in about a quarter of an hour, which was as
long as any troops could be expected to stand before
such a fire, the Tartars moved right and left with
the manifest intention of outflanking us both ways.

Their right wing, however, met the deadly Arm*
strong again upon our left, and this time it did
not take ten minutes to give them enough of it
Their left encountered Sterling's guns, with like
effect Still, however, they did not resign the day ;
and finding the fire of Sterling's guns so intoler-
able, they formed the bold, but rash, resolution of
capturing them, and a hundred Tartars rushed
down upon Sterling, who had only twenty-five of

H 2

100 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

Fane's Horse with him. Had the Tartars been more
numerous it might have been an awkward afiair,
and as it was the odds were pretty heavy against
our Sikhs. But this was just the thing for McGregor,
who commanded this little handful of Irregulars;
here was a chance : he charged them home, and was
in the act of spearing his man when he was shot
down by a Tartar, hit in the face and body, but the
sowars gave a good account of them, and soon made
the enemy repent of their rashness.

Meantime, Probyn and Fane, as well as the King's
Dragoon Guards,whose horses had aU suflFered severely
in their struggles through the mud, were drawing
nearer and nearer to the enemy, saving their horses
for the final chaise. Fane was one of the first to
catch them, and quick' as thought his spear flashed
through one Tartar as he fled, and more anon. Probyn
had a most exciting race along a causeway after one
fellow ; they were well matched in point of speed,
and the Tartar kept on the near side of the cause-
way, so that Probyn could not get at him ; at last
he lifted his horse alongside and made his thrust,
but the lance only went through the Tartar's clothes,
he dodged it so cleverly, and Probyn could not
catch him again. Anderson, of the Irregulars, got sur-
rounded by a large body of the enemy's cavalry, and
but that he defended himself vrith the greatest cou-
rage and coolness, ably seconded by the half-dozen
sowars who were with him, must have been victim-
ized. Probyn came to his relief and dispersed his as-

THE SECOND DIVISION. 101

aailants. No troops ooald have behaved better than
our cavaby; and it is only to be regretted that
their horses were not more fresh, as they could
then have done mach more execution. The Tar-
tars showed great steadiness, and when our in&ntry
Icmned the invariable square, came on boldly,
believing, as we afterwards learned, that our men
bad surrendered, and that the front-rank men, who
were kneeling, were actually performing " kowtow**
in token of submission. They soon discovered their
mistake by the noise of the volley which followed.

It was to be regretted that Sir R. Napier did not,
as Lord Clyde did with a much more formidable foe in
his front, form line, and give his infantry a chance of
making the Enfield rifle ti'U upon the Tartar cavalry.
As the action covered a large space of country it was
not easy to estimate the loss of the enemy ; our own
consisted of three oflBcers of the Irregulars wounded,
two sowars killed, and ten or twelve wounded, with
<Hie of the King's Dragoon Ouards, three or four of
the Royal Artillery, and as many of the infantry.
For days afterwards some of the Tartars were found
wounded, and some presented most frightful sights,
as the sun had told upon their wounds ; that they
were all cared for I need not say. Many a month
afterwards I saw some of them in hospital, and they
had gotten an evident partiality for bitter l)cer. It
is curious how easily some tastes are acquired. One
poor fellow was found lying wounded in a ditch, and
him his faithful dog and no less faithful horse,

102 HOW WE GOT TO PEKTN.

which had both remained with him and watched over
him for several days.

After a while the Second Division and the cavalry
arrived at Sinho, marching in by the rear of the vil-
lage, and very mach done ap they seemed, having
had much the hardest part of the day,most marching
and most fighting. B^ht glad was I, as I saw some
poor fellow, pale and exhausted by the heat and
fittigae, to be able to give him a drink of brandy-
and-water or sherry fix)m my flask, as I had an extra
supply with me in my wallets for the purpose, and
several cheaply-earned and hearty blessings did I
thus receive.

It was still early in the day, about one P.M., and
I wandered into a mud hutment which had been
vacated that morning by the Tartar cavalry force,
which had gone out to meet the Second Division.
Everything was there as the poor fellows had left it,
none of them ever to return to claim their little pro-
perties, and many of them, sent by the spears of Fane
and Probyn to the abodes of Orcus, or wherever the
place is that Tartars go to. Various and curious
were the contents of these soldiers' huts. The
Commander-in-Chief had a very nice hut, and very
clean ; and he had tea and all sorts of luxuries.
The common soldier had plenty of grain for self
and horse; and in every hut there were strips of
meat drying in the sun, confirming what the Chi-
nese had told us at Petang, that these Tartars
lived on raw meat and ^* stank" (the Chinese said)

PRISONEKS. 103

** worse tban you do yourselves** — ^not very com-
plimentary to us, the most tabbing nation in the
workL

Having seized some grain to feed my horse I lay
about^ as did every one else, until it was time to
think of settling for the night We had no tents or
blankets. I got a goat's-skin from one of the Tartar
soldiers' huts, and this helped to fend oS some of the
dew which was very heavy, so that when we got up
in the morning our clothes were so wet that we could
wring the water out of them. We found large stacks
of forage on the ground and plenty of com in the
town for the horses.

We lost a small party, consisting of a non-oom*
missioned officer of the 44th, a private of the Buflb,
and eight or ten Hong Kong coolies on this day, and
on this wise. They were bringing some commissariat-
storos to the front, and amongst the rest some ruuL
Whether they had a supply of spirits of their own,
or put a ^ leak" into the keg, I cannot say, but the
soldiers both got drunk, lost their way, stumbled
upon a party of Tartars, and were taken prisoners
(after showing some fight), with the exception of one
coolie who managed to escape. We felt certain that
they would be murdered, and that if the Europeans
had any chance of escape, the Chinamen had none, as
the authorities would naturally be exasperated against
their own countrymen. In a few days, much to
our surprise, the 44th man and all the coolies were
sent in^ but poor Moyse of the Bu& was missing.

104 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

The 44th soldier gave a very uncertain account of
the whole matter, drawing largely upon his Irish
imagination. He said that they had been brought
before the " Gineral," and that Moyse was ordered
to " kowtow," and upon his refiisal to do so was put
to death ; that he had then been forced down, and
had his &ce rubbed in the dust He added that he
and the "Serjeant-major" were great Mends, and
gave details of conversations which he had held with
the " Serjeant-major ;" and when asked how he came
to understand all this, not knowing the language, his
truly Irish reply was, " Ah I sure, thim fellahs has no
saycrits like us," One thing, however, was clear that
poor Moyse had lost his life in a chivalrous spirit;
and I do not scruple to reprint some lines, which must
have been ah-eady published at home, although I have
only seen them in manuscript sent fix)m England.

LINES ON MOYSE'S DEATH.

Last nighty among his fellow xonghs

He jested, quaffed, and swore ;
A drunken private of the Buffs

Who never look'd before.
To-^y^ beneath the foeman's frown

He stands in Elgin's place,
Ambassador from Britain's Crown,

And type of all her race.

Poor, reckless, rude, lowborn, untaught,

Bewildered, and alone ;
A heart with English instinct fraught

He yet can call his own ;
Aye, tear his body limb from limb,

Bring cord, or axe, or flame ;
He only knows that not through him

ShaU England oome to shame,

LIKES ON THE DEATH OF PRIVATE MOTSE. 105

Fftr * Kentish bop-grounds round him nem'd

Like dreams to oome and go ;
Bright leagues of cherry blossoms gleam*d

One sheet of living snow.
The smoke above his father^s door

In grey soft eddies hung,
Must he then watch it rise no more

Doom'd by himself so young ?

Yes, honour calls ! with strength like steew

He puts the vision by ;
Let duskey Indians whine and kneel.

An English lad must die.
And thus with eye that would not shrink.

With knee to man imbent.
Unfaltering on its dreadful brink

To his red grave he went.

Vain mightiest fleets of iron fimmed,

Vain those all-shatt*ring guns ;
Unless proud England keep untamed

The strong heart of her sons.
80 let his name through Europe ring

A man of mean estate,
Who died as firm as Sparta*s king.

Because his soul was great.

CHIXESB DOCUMENTS.

A nomber of docoments of some interest were
foond at the quarters of the Tartar chief. One was
a memofandom from the Council of State addressed
to Sankolinsin and the local Viceroy Hang Foo, in
which the English and French ambassadors are
denounced as " intractable' and " reMUous f and are
likewise designated by name as being *' inseparable
in dishonesty, sanguinary, and treacherous by nature^**
ftc^ &c ; and in which also our army is stated to
amount to 30,000 men, and Sankolinsin*8 attention

* Bofh, or West Kent Be^ent.

106 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

is drawn to our surveys which had been made of the
coast of Petang,

The reply of Hang-Foo and Sankolinsin is truly
characteristic of Chinese cunning. They say that
the ground near Petang is all flat, and overflowed
by the sea, and that we shall find it difficult to land ;
and that, should we effect a landing, there are cavalry
and infantry sufficient to prevent us fix)m advancing
on the Forts.

The Russians are to be sent to Pekin if caught
lurking in the neighbourhood. But it is said that if
we were really increasing our forces to avenge our
defeat last year, we would not have allowed the
slightest rumour of our intentions to get abroad at
Shanghai Our army is sometimes stated to be
25,000, sometimes 30,000, and that contractors have
undertaken at Shanghai to supply us with bread and
beef. " This undisguised exhibition of courage, this
reckless publicity would not have been the game
even of the greatest fools, but they are not the
greatest fools. The cunning of war is this: when
one is going to surprise an enemy 10,000 le off, the
mouth should be gagged and the drums muffled ; the
sally should be made wh«n he is not expecting it,
the attack, when he is off his guard. Who would
give him notice beforehand, so as to enable him to be
in readiness ? They want to sue for peace, but do
not choose to be the first to speak of it ; this is per
fectly plain. Besides, as to the violence of their
language, these Barbarians, for the last twenty years.

CHINESE DOCUMENTS. 107

have been feedii^ up their pride; and it is not to be
expected that in one day they will brii^ down their
heads, and lay back their ears, and wag their tails
and ask for mercy. In their ocHnmnnications, there-
fiMe, it was inevitable that they should oontume to
use language that was extravagant and rebellious.
Should they still persist in their desire to take re-
venge for their chastisement at Takoo, then, of course,
they must go to Takoo, and fight it out''

We discovered also by another document that
one thousand taels was offered by the Govemor^ene-
ral of the Province for the Barbarian chiefs, alive
or dead, and especially for Lord Elgin ; one hundred
fi>r an inferior, and five for each common soldier.

We learn much that is important from these docu-
ments. The thorough &Isehood of their system of in-
ternational dealing; that they considered our **ulti-
matum** to be a lie, because they thought it was not
wise or prudent to speak the truth ; that we were not
giHng to take the Forts, because we gave them notice
that we would do so. How, I would ask, are we ever
to have dipk>matic relations with a Government of
this sort, until we have taught them by some such
severe lesson as they have learned in this campaign,
that we do intend what we say, and that we will
punish treachery upon their part with severity ?

Again : we learn, that with all the cringii^ of their
oiBcials and their polUeiw^ to us, they still preserve
that idea amongst themselves that they are our rulrs^
and that we are ^ t^ehels."* How can we trade upon

108 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

safe or equal tenns with a nation which holds this
view of our relative positions, until we have taught
them that we are at least their equals, and (if we chose)
could be their masters ? They are, no doubt, a rear
soning people; but they start from &lse premises,
that the Emperor of China is Emperor of the world,
and that all nations are " tributaries to him.** These
&lse premises must be beaten down, must be proved
by our strong arm to be felse in fact before it can be
possible that we should meet on terms of equality.
Until this is done all treaties are vain ; they cannot
be held binding by those who regard us as " rebels.**
All trade upon equal or just terms is impossible;
They naturally consider that they have a right to
dictate terms of commerce to their vassals when they
have the power. The lives and properties of Euro-
peans must be alike unsafe in China while this doc-
trine holds; and the barbarism of their mode of
war&re is made sufficiently plain from the offer of
" head-money" for the allies, from Lord Elgin down
to the private soldier.

Let the Expedition be said to be expensive : it is
so, doubtless ; undesirable in some respects ; so it is :
but it is simply a question whether we are to allow
the British nation to be insulted both in word and
by deed by any nation on earth, and especially in
the East ; and whether we are to have trade with
China upon a solid basis, not liable to be interrupted
by every petty accident, even by the temper or
caprice of some third-class Mandarin.

RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION. 109

Holding, as I do, strongly, that England's dignity
has never been acknowledged in China, bat that
both^ in the persons of her subjects and her offi-
cials, she has been subjected to a series of insolts —
or, rather, one continued insult — since the day our
first ship reached the China coast, — insult which
never was submitted to firom any other nation, and
which none other ever dared to offer to us, I hold
this Expedition to have been an absolute necessity.
And believing, as I do, that the people of England are
not prepared to give up the China trade, in order to
gratify the pride of a few insolent old men, — for the
people of China receive us with open arms, and if
they had a voice would welcome us from north to
soutlu And knowing that Civilization and Christ-
ianity can reach the people only through the medium
of western commerce, I believe the Expedition of
1860 to have been unavoidable, and that we are
entitled to look for the best results from it — to our-
selves, to China, and to the great caase of Christ-
ianity and Civilization — if only our policy be carried
(mlt with firmness and unyielding resolution, and that
we never shrink firom that self-assertion which is
most necessary m dealing with the Chinese.

110 now WE GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER VU.

PreparatioM — Trench Digging — Attack on Tankoo — Armstrong Guns
— Floods in the Gamp— Bridge over the Peiho— Dead Animals — Re-
connoissanoe— Breakfast among the Grapes — ^Deserted Works —
Mr. Parkes, O.B*— Skirmishing — Ruined House— Takoo Forts -*
Disposition of our Guns — Explosions — Storming the Forts — Num-
hers of Killed.

We found some hundreds of women and children in
some large junks in a creek, where they had been
left by their natural protectors ; Sir H. Grant im-
mediately placed a guard over them, until they, were
removed, in a few days' time.

There is a causeway leading fix)m the village of
Sinho to Tankoo, a large and strong work, about
three miles distant ; the ground on the left of this
causeway is a perfect swamp ; on the right it is oc-
casionally flooded either by high tides or heavy rain.
This causeway may be said to run parallel to the
river, which is distant fix)m it about a mile-and-ar
half, the intermediate ground being intersected by
numerous ditches and water-courses. Through Tan-
koo alone could we reach the Forts, unless, as General
Montauban desired, we had crossed the river and
attacked the south Forts first ; but this plan was not
deemed the best by Sir H. Grant ; and therefore, on

TRENCH DIGGING. Ill

the 13th, the sappers were hard at work making
bridges over the dykes in the plain between the
causeway and the Peiho, as we were to attack the
place on the next day, and across this ground our
troops must advance. At eight o'clock on the even-
ing of the 13th, the 60th Rifles and 31st were
ordered out to protect a working party of Madras
Sappers, under Colonel Mann, B.E., who were to dig
a trench for riflemen about 500 yards from the wall
of Tankoo.

They soon lost their way in the dark, and missed
the bridges which had been made in the morning,
and were obliged to struggle through the wet ditches
as well as they could, and after some hours wan-
dering about found themselves near the wall, and
close to the river. The strictest silence was enjoined
and observed ; but a watchful Chinaman in a junk
discovered the Barbarians, gave the alarm, and some
random shots were fired, and blue lights burned,
which, whether they discovered us to the enemy or
not, enabled Colonel Mann to see all that he wanted,
and to lay down his tape lines. No men work better
than those Madras Sappers, and while the troops were
lying silently around them, they made a trench which
would hold about two companies in loose order, who
oould keep down the enemy's fire fit)m the walL
In the middle of the night a bang and a whiz was

heard. " What is that, sir ?- called out Colonel ^

as load as he dared to speak, but very softly, to the
officer commanding the company? No answer; he

112 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

listened, all was still, but a gurgling sound that might
mean anything up to the death-rattle in a dying
man's throat " What is that noise, Captain So-and-
So ; what is it, sir ? ** " Noise, sir ; it was my bottle
of beer went off all by itself and Fve just had to
drink it sir, that's all/'

The work being done, the regiments got back to
camp about four o'clock to turn out again at six, and
having neither beds or blankets lay down in their
wet clothes on the ground — such is the soldier's lot
" Take my boots," said my friend V to his ser-
vant, ** and grease them well, they're wet, and, d'ye
hear me, broil that bit of bacon for breakfest" He
lay down, anticipating a nice soft pair of boots to
march out in, and some broiled bacon to build up the
inner man. But, by-and-by, a storm rages in his
tent — ^his boots are brought in hard and dried up,
like a chip, and the bacon cold and raw, or nearly
so. " What did I tell you to do, you stupid Oaf?
I told you to grease my boots and broil the bacon,
and what have you done ? you've broiled my boots
and greased the bacon — ^get away."

Four companies of the 6th Rifles were turned out
at half-past five, under Col. Rigaud, to support two
of Barry's Armstrong guns, and two of Desborough's,
which were placed below an angle of the river, to
keep down the fire of a two-gun battery on the op-
posite side, and which commanded our advance, and
also to silence another battery in some junks at the
very elbow of the river which here turns rather

ATTACK ON TANKOO. 113

sharply to the south. The junks were soon in a
blaze ; Captain WiUs, with Mr. Philip Mayow, R,N,,
and a small party of blue jackets crossed the river
under a heavy fire, very gallantly spiked the guns,
seven in number, and got back again all right.

Our order of advance was as follows: on the extreme
left were Rotton's rocket tubes, then Govan's and
Milward's batteries, Desborough's and Barry's next,
and on the extreme right Hicks's (Madras) rocket
tubes. Behind them the First Brigade, the Royals, and
31st; then the Queen's, a wing of the GOth Rifles,
and the 15th Punjaub In&ntry ; the other wing of the
60th having been withdrawn fix)m the bend of the
river as the guns were moved, advanced in skirmishing
order under command of Colonel Rigaud, in front of
the artillery. At about 1000 yards we opened fire
on Tankoo, which was briskly replied to ; and as the
enemy got our range, we limbered up and advanced
again, until as we neared the trench which had been
made the night before. Sir H. Grant ordered Colonel
Rigaud to send two companies of the 60th into it,
and accordingly Captain Warren and Mr. Shaw
advanced rapidly and sheltered their men, who
picked off any of the enemy's gunners that showed
themselves. Our guns were now advanced to within
about 450 yards, and made splendid practice. I
was standing close to Barry's battery, and it was at
once a beautiful and yet a fearful sight to see
the precision of their fire a^ the shells struck
the exact spot aimed at, and knocked the guns

I

114 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

of the Tartars about their ears, amidst clouds of
dust

In about twenty minutes the enemy's guns were
silenced, and the wing of the 60th Rifles, which had
been skirmishing in front all along, had been gradually
creeping up to the ditch, forward was the word, and in
they jumped, scrambling through the mud and water
as best they might, up the opposite side, and into the
Tankoo work at the angle where it rested on the
river, and thus they were the first of the allied
force in the place.

The Royals and 31st followed rapidly, and some
of our troops had formed and advanced before the
French appeared inside. Our casualties were very
few and not serious ; Sir John Michel lost his charger
from a wound in the hind leg fix)m a gingall ball.
Inside the work was a scenewhich no pen can describe;
fifteen corpses lay stretehed in every variety of ghastly
attitude round one gun, at the angle next the river;
the men had clearly been working the gun by threes,
and by threes had that fearfiil Armstrong shell sent
them to their account ; it was indeed an awfiil sight ;
limbs blown away, bodies literally burst asunder, one
black and livtd mass of blood and wounds ; I wonder
how men could have been got to serve a gun as long
as they did under such a fire. Nor was this a solitary
instance, the same scene was repeated at every gon.
I mention this one because I came upon it suddenly,
and it certainly did strike me with horror, while at
the same time I felt thankfiil that since there were

ARHSTBONO OUNS. 115

such weapons in existence, they were in oar hands,
—oars, who would use them more to preserve the
peace of the world than ever to make an aggressive
or unjust war.

And now John Chinaman sent in a flag of truce,
to saj that he really did not see why we should
fight any more. A soldier of the Buffs, hearing
of this, calls out to his comrade, ^ I say. Jack, did
you hear as them fellars has sent in a flag of truce ?'*

"No; what did they say ?*•

•* Why, they says as they'd rather not fight any
more at present; they finds it so tery disagree-
able.-

I have substituted the word t^en/ for another of
two syllables, stronger, but not so fit for ears j)olite.

The work at Tankoo was about two miles round,
a sort of irregular square, one side resting on the
river; it was a large hut barrack, the huts con-
structed of reeds and mud^ and very comfortable :
there were a good many houses also in the centre of
the place^ plenty of good water and gram, and a small
Jos&-hoose, which afterwards formed the Head-quar-
ters. The First Division was marched back to camp,
and the Second occupied the place ; we returned to
break&st between twelve and one o'clock. And now
the work of transport went on with ceaseless activity,
and the Quarter-Master-General's department had
no sinecure of it The artillery waggons were era-
ployed, as well as everything else available, to bring
op stores and ammunition, and the siege guns had

I 2

116 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

to be dragged along that weary eight miles from
Petang; the weather, however, was for the most
part in our &your, as we had but one flood during
that week.

I shall not easily forget that afternoon ; our camps,
Head-quarters and all, were pitched on a flat plain^
intersected by ditches, and evidently liable to
floods from the high tides. One evening — I had
ridden that day into Petang on duty — ^as I re-
turned I found the tide rising rapidly, and my
horse wading up to his knees, where in the morning
it had been dry. I fixed my anxious gaze in the
direction of our tents, and lo ! they stood like little
ships in the surrounding waters ; here was a pleasant
prospect I one's littie home invaded by the ruthless
element, and all the ditching and shovelling in the
world could not keep it out

I rode off in the direction of the river to ascertain
the state of the tide, and found that it was at the
highest, and had, indeed, just begun to turn. I could
not grumble when I saw the camps of the various
regiments running with a flood of water, and met the
gallant 60th Rifles just returning from a weary march
to Petang for their packs, to find their tents eighteen
inches under water. Whether, if this had been fore-
seen, it could have been prevented by any engineer-
ing on our part, I cannot say ; as the tide fell, the
water went away, and before night we had a foot
of mud vice a foot and a half or two feet of water
retired.

BRIDGE OP BOATS. 117

A vast deal of laboar was expended in bringing
op timl)er from Petang to bridge the river to the south
side about half-armile above our camp. I believe
that this was done chiefly in deference to the views
of our gallant allies, as they held the opinion very
strongly all through, that the attack should be made
upon the southern Forts in the first instance ; Sir H.
Grant, considering that the northern Fort, which we
eventually did assault, was the key of the position,
and which opinion the event certainly justified. 80
strongly, however, did the Conmianders-in-Chief
differ upon the matter, that when at length the
attack was arranged, the French General-m-Chief
consented under a protest

But the bridge was to be built — a bridge of boats.
Junks were seized on the river, but the timber to
connect them had to be brought from Petang, and
certainly the French showed themselves quite our
e<{nals at this sort of work, for although their trans-
port was not as good as ours (as we had our artillery
waggons at work), they made up in skill and energy'
fi>r their other deficiencies.

I had occtision to go into Petang on duty several
times during that week, which we spent at Sinho,
and a more disagreeable ride I never underUx>k ;
all along the road you passed on from one sight and
smell nearly as evil as it could l)e, to another worse.
•*Bono Frana*y" had murdered all the pigs, but
the villain was dainty, and he had cut off the back
and hind-quarters, and left the rest to putrify in the

118 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

sun ; this was all about the town, and round his own
camp, which lay on the Petang road. Here you
passed every kind of transport animal in every state
and stage of decomposition, and at both sides of the
road, so that you could not escape. The wretched
Manilla pony with his pack beside him, perhaps an
officer's kit, or some commissariat stores ; the sturdy
bullock broken down, and bloating in the suil I
was provided with bags of camphor in anticipation
of such circumstances ; with one of them stuffed to
my nose and mouth, I got through, and avoided
the fate from which I have seen a strong man suffer,
being fairly taken off his horse by sheer sickness,
from the abominations of that road.

I had, however, one pleasant ride during that week.
A cavalry reconnoissance was ordered in the di-
rection of Tien-Tsin, along the left, or northern bank
of the Peiho, with the double purpose of discovering
the nature of the road, and seeing if the enemy were
in force in that direction. I joined the party ; we
started at about six a.h., a charming morning, not
too hot at that hour, and rode across the plain, keep-
ing the river on our left. We came to a sort of half-
picket, half-farm house, in about five miles* riding,
and getting on the roof surveyed the country round,
but could see no sign of an enemy in any direction ;
there were some people lurking about the house,
who came forward after a little while from their
hiding places, and were very obsequious in their
conduct. We pushed on for about six miles more

RECONNOISSANCE. 119

through the plain, rich in grass and corn, and
abounding with snipe and ployer round the springs
and ditches. I never saw so many of those birds
anywhere before ; the snipe were constantly gettmg
up in whisps of four, five, and six brace, and we
then verged towards a village on the river, where
we halted for break&st

We left our horses in charge of the dragoons under
some trees, and proceeded into a garden, where we
found the grateful shade of a most lovely arbour of
vines ; anything more luxuriant I never saw ; the
dusters of grapes surpassed, for size form and bloom,
any that I had ever seen in Italy ; and the beautiful
arbour, about seven feet high, into which the vines
were trained, with all the rich clusters hanging from
the roo^ formed a break&st-room that a monarch
might envy. One thing alone was wanting, the grapes
" were sour ;" yet a week or ten days more and their
taste will equal their beauty ; but now, alas I they
must remain untasted. Our ride, however, had created
an appetite which made us very thankful for the
good things we had brought with us, even without
the grapes; each produced a little store from his
wallets — a tin of preserved meat, some ham-sand-
wiches, some Yorkshire pie, and bread too, very
good, baked in our field-ovens. Such was our fare ;
and some sherry or brandy and cold water washed
it down very gratefully. Water and seats and
bowls the villagers gave us ; but tea is a luxury in
which these simple country folks do not indulge, in

120 HOW WE GOT TO PEKlN.

this part of China ; so that my dear young or old
lady, if I have the good fortune to be read by any
such, you must not be surprised when you hear of
the naughty soldiers drinking sherry or brandy-and-
water " so early in the moming.** TeUj the legiti-
mate breakfost beverage, tea I say and repeat,
though in China, was not to be had ; and &iling that,
we were forced to content ourselves with the stronger
beverage.

The villagers were very civil, and most anxious
to get everything for us ; and when we had rested
ourselves, our men, and horses, we pushed on about
four or five miles further, to a large village, where
it was reported that a force of Tartar cavalry had
been posted ; we found, however, no signs of the
enemy : the richest of the inhabitants had deserted
the place, and the poorer sort crowded round us and
** kowtowed." They admired the large horses very
much, and the Sikhs attracted great admiration from
their gaudy dress and martial appearance. The
natives called them "the dark-coloured princes'* —
but we were all princes for that matter. Here we
turned back again, having reconnoitred half the
distance to Tien-Tsin. We kept rather more to the
east on our march back, and came upon one or two
strong entrenchments, which did not appear to have
been ever occupied. Our ride home was hot, but
very pleasant, and I felt I had eiyoyed a delightful
excursion.

After the M of Tankoo, flags of truce, with letr

MB. PARKES, C.6. 121

Wrs for the ambassadors, were sent into camp at
least eveiy other day, and forwarded to Lord Elgin
on board the 'Granada' at Petang, and to Baron
Gros at the fleet On the 18th Lord Elgin sent
his reply by Mr. Parkes, and Major Anson accom-
panied him with a flag of truce. A messenger from
Hang-Foo, the Governor of the province, met them
shortly after they had left Tankoo; and after
some parley, in which he refused to allow them to
cross the river, and Mr. Parkes, with his usual de-
termination, insisted upon seeing the Grovemor-Gen-
eral, the messenger consented to carry back Mr.
Parkes*s ^ ultimatum,'* and soon returned with orders
to usher them into the august presence. Hang-Foo
received them very politely, was extremely anxious
that hostilities should cease, and paraded a good
many very dirty-looking soldiers, which, to a Euro-
pean eye, did not present a very military appear-
ance.

There is no man in China so fit to deal with
the Chinese as Mr. Parkes. He sees through their
double dealings (if any man can &thom their deceit)
With an eagle glance; he is as plucky as a true
British bulldog, and meets their treachery and false-
hood by open, honest, straightforward boldness and
determination, which bothers your thorough rogue
more than anything else, as he imagines that you
are playing the same game that he is. Mr. Parkes
is thoroughly polite, but does not scruple if he finds
the highest official in the realm dealing fidsely, to

122 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

tell him so ; hence the mingled hatred and fear which
his name inspires in the minds of all the governing
powers in the country. He knows them, and they
are quite aware that he does, and as conscious scoun-
drels they hate him in proportion. The usual me-
thods of " managing** and " taming the fierceness of
the Barbarians*' are of no use with him ; he is " tho-
roughly intractable.** I much wish that every one
of our officials in China were of the same stamp ; we
should then have little more trouble with the country.
The Tartars were evidently prepared for an attack
on the south side of the river. The country there
was one continued orchard for a depth of about two
miles from the river. Into this the French, having
crossed the river, advanced, for the purpose of find-
ing a good place for the bridge of boats; they
marched up a road, and found themselves engaged
with some skirmishers in the orchards which lined it ;
these they drove in, and came upon an advanced post,
strongly defended by a deep ditch and some guns,
and occupied by a large number of troops. Though
only about 300 strong, they very gallantly out-
flanked it, and took it, and sent back, by an English
staff-officer who accompanied the reconnoissance
(Captain Brabazon, R.A.), for some reinforcements,
which were at once despatched; and as the Gaul
found that an orchard fiill of finit of all sorts, with
the shade of lovely trees, was a much better
place than a flooded plain, he stayed there,
and he was quite right. A first-rate fellow at

RUINED HOUSE. 123

campaigning is the Gaul; he beats the Briton at
that

There was a charming coontry residence close to this
Tartar post, and it was unfortunately burned I sup-
pose that it had been occupied by tro(^)s, who had fired
upon the French from it ; otherwise they would have
spared it, if for no other reason, for their own sakes.
It was built in the same style that prevails in China,
courtyard after courtyard, each opening into others,
and the rooms on two, three, or four sides of them.
In front was an open lawn, with fine timber, and
fenced in by deep ditches and tall, thick hedges,
which secured privacy, while the house was sur-
rounded by the most exquisite gardens filled with
plants and flowers trained in most fimtastic forms,
and the courtyards were ornamented with flowering
shrubs in pots. No damage had been done except by
the fire ; and it was a melancholy sight to see a place,
so lately no doubt an abode of ease, contentment,
and luxur}% with everything which art and nature
combined could give to gratify the taste, reduced to
ruins, and nothing of it lefl but blackened walls, and
charred ends of what yesterday was costly furniture ;
China vases split and blackened, and flowers, hitherto
so jealously watched and tended like children, left to
be trampled upon and to perish. Wliat would be the
feelings of the owners when they should again see
the remains of their once peaceful home ? I thank
God this was the only instance of this sort of destruc-
tion which I saw in the campaign.

124 HOW WE GfOT TO PEKIN.

Cherish your soldiers, 0, England ! Don't for a
moment imagine that you can dispense with your re-
gular army. Arm, and driU too, ye gallant volunteers.
You are fine fellows, I am sure, though I have not yet
seen any of you. You pay the highest compliment that
you can to the army, for your enrolment pcoves that
you would all be soldiers if you could. But be well
prepared : if ever England's foes should break through
her wooden or her iron walls, there must be a wall
of flesh and blood around her shores, which will be-
come a wall of dead men, if need be, rather than that
a tongue should live to tell of England's shame, or
that an eye of man should ever look upon her dis-
honour. Trust not to professions of friendship and
of peace, come they whence they may ; that which
would be the basest fidsehood and treachery in
the man, is supposed to be but a venial diplomacy
in the Monarch. England's safety and England's
glory must never be risked ; she must rely (under
God's providence) upon herself alone; and if any
eagle is ever brought firom the continent to her shores,
it must meet with the same fate as the eagle which
once left her shores for France. But I am wander-
ing home, and there is yet many a weary mile and
weary day between me and home.

Now for the far-famed Takoo Forts. They are
five in number, two upon the left, or north bank of
the river, and three upon the south bank. The two
upper Forts, north and south, are nearly opposite to
each other. About three-quarters of a mile further

TAKOO F0BT8. 125

down lies the second north Fort, and below it, about
400 yards upon the south bank, the one upon which
our unsuccessful attack was made in 1859, and the
fifth lies close to the mouth of the river upon the
same side ; there is a strong fiatmily likeness among
them all. '

Our attack was to be made upon the upper
northern Fort, and it was on this wise. At day-
light on the 19 th Sir R. Napier, who was to com-
mand the assault, marched out of Tankoo with the
G7th Regunent, Milward's battery of Armstrong
guns, the Royal Engineers, and Madras Sappers, for
the purpose of making roads over the soft jmrt of the
mud, bridging the numerous canals, and throwing up
earthworks to protect our artillery, and no man could
have been chosen more fitted for the task, being
himself an engineer officer of great experience, and
a tried and skilful general.

Our artillery was placed in two lines or ranks, one
in front of the other; Major Pennjxuick and Captain
Bcilingfield commanded two batteries thrown up GOO
yards from the Fort, one containing two 8-inch
howitzers and two 9-pounders; the other, three
8-inch mortars. In rear of them, and at about twice
the distance on the left, were two of Govan's
24-pouud howitzers, three of Milward's Armstrongs,
next an 8-inch gun of Major Rotton*s, and two of
Bany*8 Armstrongs. The French had a few guns
on our right next the river.
Anxiously did I watch for daylight on the 21st,

126 HOW WE GHDT TO PEKIN.

the day of the assault, but somehow I fell asleep
just before dawn, and was awakened by the boom
of the first gun which was fired. I started from
my bed, and called to my servant for a horse; a
naval friend who was staying with me jumped up
with equal speed, and we were soon on horseback
and galloping in the direction of the Forts. We
passed Lord Elgin, who had come up fit)m on board
ship at the Petang river a day or two before, to
witness the attack, riding by himself to the fit)nt

At Tankoo we were gratified by the opening
of a battery right across the river upon us ; this
had been expected, and a couple of Barry's Arm-
strong guns were brought to bear upon it One
chief interest in this campaign has been to watch the
first trial of the Armstrong guns, and I was soon
down at the edge of the river at the south gate of
Tankoo, watching our fire and that of the enemy ;
as usual, the direction of the Chinese guns was good,
but the elevation defective ; they sent their shot either
short or over our heads, and during that morning not
one shot came nearer than within twenty yards of
our guns. Not so the Armstrong shells ; the first few
were short, and burst in the water, but soon they got
the range, and then you could see the dust fly, as
the shell struck the battery, nor was it long until
their fire was slackened, and they were eventually
silent Mr. Hosier, R.A., is the officer who has the
credit of that morning's work at Tankoo.

The force engaged on the 21st consisted of the

EXPLOSIONS. 127

artQlery already named, the 44th and 67th Regiments,
lioyal Marines, aboat 350 strong ; Mdjor ^raham*s
company of Royal Engineers, 200 Miadras Sappers,
and some small Madras guns. The French had
about 1000 men, besides half-a-dozen rifled cannon.
The * Drake,* * Woodcock,' * Clown,' and * Janus,' gun-
boats, were to attack the lower north Fort at the
same time, and also four French gun-boats.

At daylight on the 21st they marched out of
Tankoo, and half-an-hour afterwards the French
column moved off from the same place, to the right
between us and the river, and almost as soon as
we were visible, the enemy opened fire from every
gun which could be brought to bear upon the attack,
not only fix)m the two northern and upper south Fort,
but from several batteries along the river's edge near
the village of Takoo, armed with heavy guns.

Milward's Armstrongs were the first to open
the ball upon our side, and in a short time every
gon we had was in action, and a fearful storm of
shot and shell was poured »into the devoted Forts,
while the Chinese maintained their fire with deter-
mination for more than two hours. A tremendous
explosion took place in the upper north Fort at
about six o'clock, occasioned by the blowing up of
a magazine by one of our shells, and another soon
after was exploded in the lower fort on the same
side; the noise of these was such that the guns
sounded like pop-guns, and I was assured by some
oflBoers who were at Petang that day, which must

128 ■ HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

be six or eight miles off as the crow flies, that it
shook the ground there like an earthquake, and
made the dogs run round and round as if they were
giddy. Still the Tartars stood to their guns bravely,
although their fire was not destructive; our heavy
guns in position were well sheltered, and our field
artillery was not stationary, so that they could move
before the enemy had got their range.

The field guns had now advanced to within about
500 yards of the Fort, and poured their fire on the gate-
way which had been built up with earth and timber.
Partially protected by this fire the 44th and 67th
advanced close to the ditch, which the Engineers and
Royal Marines were endeavouring to bridge with very
nice-looking pontoons, which had doubtless been tried
and answered admirably upon the Serpentine, but
proved themselves of no use here, as being unweildy ;
all the exertions of Major Graham and both the
Sappers and Marines proved unavailing; both he
and the officer commanding the Marines were
wounded, and a large prgportion of their men, before
they desisted fit)m their vain attempts, and at last
a plank was obliged to perform that important duty,
but not before a number of both regiments had
crossed by wading up to their necks and swimming.

A perfect storm of matchlock and gingall balls
was poured firom the walls upon the storming and
pontoon parties,' together with arrows, spears, and
shot, stinkpots, and lime-baskets, enough to have
damped the courage of any troops except those

NUMBEBS OF KILLED. 129

engaged ; but neither the English or French ever
gave way an inch or Mtered for a moment Ladder
after ladder was thrown back upon the assailants or
dragged over the wall ; officers and men were thrust
bock wounded fix>m the embrasures ; at length Mr.
liogers of the 44th managed to scramble through an
embrasure, although wounded in the act, at the same
time as the French entered {h)m the angle next the
river. Ck>Ionel Knox, 67th, Mr. Burslem, Mr.
Lenon, Mr. Chaplin, most of them wounded, were
among the first m, while Captain Gregory, 44th
(whose conduct was distinguished by coolness and
courage throughout the assault), Colonel Mann, B.E.,
Mr. Prichard, R.E., Mr. Kempson, 99th, aide-de-
camp to Brigadier Reeves, and the Brigadier,
(wounded in three or four places,) were equally fortu-
nate. Mr. Chaplin, followed by Kempson, rushed
up to the top of the cavalier to plant the C7th
colours, which they succeeded in doing, although Mr.
Chaplin was twice hit while carrying the colour,
oace in the leg and also in the arm.

The scene inside the Fort is hardly to be described,
the Tartara fighting still with desperation against
fearfiil odds, even their wounded, shooting at our
men as they passed, for numbers of both French and
English were now inside. Colonel Anson and Colonel
Mann cut down the drawbridge across the ditch,
which the former with Captain Grant had swam on
horseback, until their horses stuck, when they left
them there and staruck out on their own account.

130 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

But while some fought thus desperately, others fled,
but only to meet their fate outside the Fort ; many
were shot down and transfixed by the sharp bam-
boo spikes which extended between the wall and the
ditch for twenty or twenty-five feet in width, and
lay there a fearful spectacle ; many were dro¥mcd
endeavouring to cross the river, and the havoc which
our fire had made, caused it to be a matter of
wonder to everyone that they should have held out
so long and so gallantly as they did. Their dead
lay in heaps round their guns and scattered through
the Fort, bearing witness to the excellence of our
weapons, and the accuracy of our fire.

131

CHAPTER VIII.

lUooreiy of Ghui taken in 1859— Tbe Wounded— Surrender of the
South Forte— F»Toarable Weather— Wet Tents — Camp Dinners
— Crimean Steaks— GmmblerB at Home — A dead Horse.

We found above forty gons in this one Fort, many of
them of brass and of heavy metal The cavalier
mounted three, two large brass Chinese guns, and a
32-pounder iron gun (English), taken from the gun-
boats last year. I witnessed an amusing scene
shortly after the Fort was in our possession. Admiral
Hope was looking over the place, and Sir H. Grant
with him ; they arrived at the cavalier. " Ah," said
Sir H., smiling good-humouredly, and patting the
English 32-pounder, "look here, Admiral, one of
your own guns ; very happy to have the pleasure of
giving it back to you again." The reply was not
"apropos," and showed that the subject was not
relb^hcil "Ah, what about the landing of those
horses that have just arrived from Ja{)an."

Our wounded were carried to Tankoo in doolies,
where there was very good hospital accommodution
ready for them. I saw one poor follow, a sapper on
the fiekl, mortally wounded, havmg been shot through

K 2

132 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

the body at the ditch. I knelt beside him and said
sach things as I deemed fit for a man in his state to
hear, words of mercy and of comfort He said, ** Oh,
don't talk to me about those things now, sir ; I am in
such pain that I cannot listen to you/' I could not help
reflecting that of all men in the world a soldier should
ever be prepared to meet his GodL I was surprised
to find a soldier of the 67th reading a small book inside
the fort soon after it was stormed, and on inquiry I
found that the man was reading the morning Psalms
fix)m his prayer-book. The wounded Tartars were
looked after by Surgeon Home, V.C, who was
attached to head-quarters; and it was amusing
and pleasant to see one poor fellow, not very badly
hurt, sitting on a gun in the cavalier beside the
Greneral, and eating ham-sandwiches, and drinking
claret and water fi^om Captain Grant's hand.

The Buffs and 8th Punjaub Native In&ntry had
by this time arrived, and Colonel Wolseley having
reported to Sir H. Grant that the ground between
the two northern Forts was practicable for artillery,
as he had just made a single-handed reconnoissance
close up to the lower one, and had been well " potted "
at, and (more fortunate than he was at Rangoon
and in the Crimea) not touched, an advance was
ordered to be made against it Just at this moment,
however, flags of truce were displayed, and the war-
like banners on the Forts lowered ; upon Mr. Parkes
inquiring fi^om an official who was sent to meet him
and Major Sarel, whether they were prepared to

SURRENDER OF THE SOUTH FORTS. 133

make an unoonditional suirender of all the Forts at
once, he received a very insolent reply, that having
taken only one we had no right to the other
four; that Lord Elgin might indeed pass up the
river, but that if he wanted the other Forts ^^ he
must come and take them.'* Report said at the
time that Mr. Parkes treated this gentleman to a
box on the ear for his impudence. I do not vouch
for the &ct at all, but I am sure I hope that it is
troe ; and I am certain that if he did, it served him
very right

A n4)id advance was now made on the lower
fort; not a shot was fired, and 2000 men sur-
rendered themselves prisoners. They were quite
right, as in addition to our own guns we had those
of the upper fort, commanding them thoroughly and
ready to blow them into the air, as also the two
nearest on the south side. The prisoners were sent
across the river, and again Mr. Parkes with Colonel
Anson crossed to learn the intentions of the Chinese.
After some difficulty, he found the Govemor-General,
who of course endeavoured to gull ^ the Barbarian.**
Bat no, that could not be done ; he said that he had
not got possession of the Forts, and could not there-
fore surrender them, but that he must refer the
matter to the Commander-in-Chie^ who unfortunately
tooB dead. Mr. Parkes, however, brought him to his
senses by telling him that the Forts and the town
and every one in them (as their batteries at the
town had fired on us) would be undoubtedly blown

134 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

up next momiiig. He saw that Mr. Parkes was in
earnest, and not to be done, so he at once signed
the surrender, and the south Forts were that night
occupied by French and British troops.

Thus fell the Takoo Forts on August 2l8t, 1860,
with a loss upon our part of only 200 officers and men
killed and wounded, and on that of our gallant allies
of 100 more, while that of the Tartars was estimated
at 1800. Everyone was anxious to inspect that one,
which had repulsed our brave tars and marines the
year before, and those who could do so availed them-
selves of the earliest opportunity. It was much more
heavily armed than that which we had attacked,
mounting twenty-five large brass Chinese guns — one
68-pounder, three 32-pounders, three 24-pounder
brass howitzers, and one ten-inch gon taken fit>m
our gun-boats, besides a host of smaller guns, above
200 in all. The ditch was twice as wide and twice
as deep as that which we had to cross ; and, worst of
all, the ground around it (with the exception of the
causeway which was of course commanded), a
thorough swamp. It was no wonder that our brave
admiral, for brave he is and thoroughly determined
he proved himself upon that occasion, found it im-
pregnable, and that our marines were repulsed fix)m
a place which three times their number could not
have taken at any sacrifice of life.

I must not omit to mention a fact which all felt much
at the time, and which the Chinese as well as ourselves
took notice of. The state of the mud round the north

FAVOUBABLE WEATHER. 135

forts depended upon two things, the tides and the
run. Daring a high tide, the ditches were over*
flowed and the ground swamped, so that the lightest
guns coold not cross it ; this was guarded against by
choosing a time of low tides for the assault, but a
heavy fidl of rain (and it knows how to rain in
China when it does come down) would produce a
like effect For dry weather we were dependent
upon the will of Providence, and we were &youred
with it for some days before, so that the mud got
hard and baked by the hot sun. But no sooner
were our operations over, and the forts ours, than a
tremendous storm of thunder and rain broke from
the heavens. If it had come a few hours earlier, it
would have rendered us perfectly helpless. " Ah,"
said the Chinese, ^ you took the Forts because the
heavens were against us." I hope and believe that
we were thankful for the aid which we received ; and
it was certainly made very plain to us that we
should have been unable to do anything had the
weather been adverse, by the sudden change which
took place in the state of the ground from one
heavy shower. An Irish soldier, attached to me, de-
scribed it in the hearing of a friend of mine after-
wards to his servant, thus, — ^*^And there was the
master gallopin home like mad, to get out if the wet,
and there was I, wid mee boots off and down to mee
knees in mud every yard I*d travel" This tickled
my friend Colonel R.'s fiuicy, who insists that when
an Englishman (as he i?) travels in a country of that

136 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

sort he is up to his knees in mad, not dawn. I was
not exactly " galloping like mad ** either, for the road
was too deep for that

A precious state we found our camp in when we
returned; my Madras boy, idle like most of his race,
had neglected to shut my tent and clear the drain
round it, so I found it full of water, a pleasant place
to spend the evening in. I make it a rule, however,
not to grumble about what I cannot help, and as our
little party lay round the sides of another bell tent
(the owner of which,* our worthy mess manager,
allowed us to dine there), at eight o'clock that even-
ing, in every possible and impossible attitude, we soon
forgot our little " d6sagr^ments," rejoiced to meet
again all unhurt, although some of the party had
been in the hottest of the fire.

Those dinners in a campaign, what curious and
uncertain things they are! Today, luxury, posi-
tive luxury, fresh mutton, fowls, vegetables, per-
haps a salad; tomorrow, a piece of ration beef as
hard and tough as the sole of your boot, and some
biscuit very fit companion for it ; but never mind,
you get used to these things campaigning. We
had a most cunning dish every day, it was a stew ;
I never knew or asked what was put into it,
that would have been unwise. My impression,
however, is that it had everything in it that could
be got, and when the meat was "ratipn," the dis-
guise which the stew gave it was so strong (ration
meat requires a disguise sometimes), that you could

CBIMEAN STEAKS* 137

not recognize it We never were reduced to sacli
an extremity in our *' cuisine,'' as a friend of mine
was in the Crimea during the hard winter there.
He told me the story, thus —

Two officers (whose names I do not mention as they
are both alive and well now, and in command of two
cavalry regiments, so I spare their feelings) came to
his tent one evening on their return from the front,
wet and weary, and received a cordial invitation to
share his dinner, which no one gave with a better
grace or warmer heart than he did, and gives still,
I am glad to say, for a worthier fellow does not live ;
he is now settled down quietly in the country, and
^ soldiers ** no longer. He was known to have a good
supply of whatever was to be had (as he was not
fiir from Balaclava), and a very clever Maltese pri-
vate servant who was such a good cook that he
could make the most of anything, so that it did not
require much pressing to induce the two dragoons
to stay.

He went out to his servant's little hut to desire
him to get dinner for three instead of for one, when,
to lus horror, he found that there was only some
wretehed morsel cooking for himself which it would
have been a mockery to place before his hungry
guests, and that there was nothing more, not a tin
of soup, or of meat of any sort, or a morsel that could
be converted into food.

He was determined that come what might his
guests should be fed ; so he told his servant to go

138 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

first to this, then to that other friend, and so on ;
and fiiiling all these, he cast him npon his own re-
sources, giving him one strict injunction, not to return
empty-handed^ which order the man knew was not to
be disobeyed with safety. In due time, and sooner
than he expected^ notice was given that the dinner
was ready, and a good dish of steaming hot steaks
appeared, which looked very well, and though not
very feit, were, in those days, by no means to be
despised. Ample justice was done to them, and
though the larder had been empty the cellar was not
dry, so, when the second dish of the same appeared^
the first having been washed down by liquor more
welcome from its scarcity, the two dragoons felt that
their host never had treated them better, and a veiy
pleasant evening they had of it

At night, in his bed, something struck a suspicion
into my friend*s mind as to the origin of the steaks,
and he could not get rid of the idea or sleep for
thinking of it There was something about the shape
of the steaks, which struck him as peculiar, and he
could not think of anything else. When daylight
came he found his way to the road at a short dis-
tance fit>m his tent, and then, oh, horror of horrors I
his worst fears were confirmed : a horse which had
dropped there on the previous afternoon (he had
seen it) had been visited, and, being in tolerable
condition, several long steaks had been cut from his
chine, the identical shape of those with which he had
entertained his two fiiends the night before. Di&-

gust and fzrr wdmi Yobl Z-f rmsi^-l m.^ v ^^
tent, bat the fwz-r.rt Mlj-^^h mi *--l
tke CMBBt of kk 1k» imi it lOr:^ ii<r
aftenruds sea ir 3«r rzisi s umia. :2c Mser ir
him I flhoBld ST.

case,* who hire j-inr ir!acais:& a^-l ^ni Li ii-
iieatii€9B and 'pc^r^aklTr wi^rt int r^- -l xasci.:?-
ment of toot tXf>zIlrrLi wr-^ ^^rrsc^ ii ^x. aii.
who do Dot scmrir ;: rrr'vi if at* nini^ * -asr?' -um
hard or too soft, or •^ frrs ii^i 7^ss^:r7 or i^
cutlets not qoite te^«>^ :r u**^ rA* !• r tt rr m
it might bCp Te wb> Ii^». -in* ic * -if* 'mi.* tk

fimova dri>din:-*T! wrlous im:: *€ -^ocs^ff •

da" AjA \xita^ hr ^'jev.^ ^lI^ j^ynii wr^ ^'^^nrt
OD TOOT retnni fra T.nr i-f*? ▼ rt '7 e ^i-ti-^'
of little feet, with the MrrmzWkUueir^ * r ira^ ;«-i::t-*
and the pleaaut szlZ^ *.( iiiai »r-»^ in-* ▼■::.. a
robbed too of toot peve rf m^i*! 7-^2* i:^'- loc
has paid it all back asaci v* -3:iiHL;i'>-i •■: «n.-^
(God bless all such rood &«<!. wi> '•» «z«f
voor hat (voa doci*t like thas» fir a saa ?*«c»-'!8
his hat), another yoor doT«. iircir j-ior ^u-x.
another jour dost-ooai, aifl r^>9 2!l^. tji^j ^dr:r
aboat joo, and dance befce j n. as f 7-fc laiL
been away fsr a month, vet t*'«i aw ui»^ iZ is
break&st •*Yon knk tired, Jir: wZ j--* ia-^
a biscuit and a ^ass of wine, or wC j-it wiis iH
dmner r ** YoaH waiL" •*Ka:-, tj Y^k it xd
tell the cook to be ponctoal with diuner*

140 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

little Johnny runs up to yoor dressing-room and
is ready with the bootjack, and puts his tiny foot npon
the toe of your boot, chattering all the while about
Fan's pups ; one of them has both eyes open ; there's
news for youl and tells you how Thompson, that
keeps the livery-stable, his great, big cock flew over
the waU at dinner-time, and went to beat " Charley,"
the bantam, and how Charley flew at him and he at
Charley, " till I ran out with the hearth-brush, and
gave him such a beating you never saw; wasn't
he a nasty, cowardly bird to go and try and beat a
little bird, and wasn't Charley plucky ? Only think,
he tried to fly over the wall after Thompson's cock.
I love Charley ; but I don't think the big cock will
come here again ; I gave it him, I did ; didn't I
serve him right, papa?"

You have washed your hands and fiw^e (Johnny
had the towel ready for you) and changed your
clothes. Do look pleasant and be cheerful ; things
are not as square as they might be in the city,
but don't you be sour, whatever you do ; be thankful
for the goods you have, and bless your stars
that you are not soldiering at Takoo, or some
equally agreeable place; and if the plates are not
hot, and the gravy does " freeze," don't get savage,
and tell your wife, "It's always the same." And
when you lie down in your comfortable bed, with
weU-aired sheets and carpeted floor, think some-
times of those, as weU-bom and delicately brought
up as you, who are stretched on a wet rug, with

A DSAD H0B8B. 141

heavy boots on, and a foot deep of mud all lonnd
them, with a dose heat which causes an unwholesome
damp steam that you could sit upon, and never
grumble at your hard lot, or at the Army Estimates.

From such a sleep as only the weary know, and
in such an atmosphere, and fit)m such a couch as I
have hinted at, I was awakened next morning after
the &11 of the Forts by a dusky vision of a soldier
standing at the tent door, and thus addressing me.

^ rd like to get that pony away, sir, as soon as I
could.''

I sat up, rubbed my eyes, and made a strong call
upon my memory to try and find out the meaning of
what he said. Whose pony did I borrow, thought I,
that he wants to get rid of; but I could not recollect
having anybody's animal in use except my own.

"What are you talking about?" I replied, sadly
mystified as to what he could mean.

•* Nothing, sir ; only I was just sayin* that I'd like
to get that pony away as soon as I could ; only I'd like
to take the shoes off iv him first, for sure it was
only a couple of days ago I got him shod beyant at
Captain Desborough's batthery."

I began to think that I must be asleep, so I gave
myself another shake.

" What are you saying, man ; what are you talking
about ? Sending away a pony and taking his shoes off.
I don't understand a word you say, nor do I think you
know what you are talking about yourself. Whose
pony ; what pony do you want to send away ?"

142 HOW WE OCT TO PEKIN.

" Why, your pony, sir, that that other gmtleman
was ridin* yistherday; only I was saying Td like
to take his shoes off first ; for why would I lose them,
and they so dear T

Deeper and deeper stilL One of us must be mad
or drunk, I thought He wants to send away my
bay cob, the pick of 200 ponies, and to take his
shoes off that I was so particular about^ as he never
had been shod before.

"Are you drunk?" I said, "or what do you mean?
K you are sober, explain yourself; I don't understand
one word you say. So, if you cannot explain what
you mean, go away."

Touched by my insinuation as to his sobriety, he
replied — " Why, thin, I am as sober as I was the day
I was bom, sir ; and as to dhrink, long as Fm wid
you, when did you ever see the sign of liquor on me ?
and, indeed, if I wouldn't git hearty on the dirihy
water, its little else Fd be in danger of drinkin' here.
But sure your Kivirence can do as you like, and keep
him as long as its plazin' to you. But I was only
saying J'd like to get him away soon, for he'll begin
to smell directly; isn't he swelled as big as two
already ; shure didnt he die on me last night?**

Sorry as I was to lose my pony, one of the finest
cobs I had ever seen, I confess that I burst out into
a hearty fit of laughter till I shook again at the
strange mode in which my Paddy had chosen to
communicate the " sad intelligence."

On inquiry I found that an officer's servant at

A DEAD HOBSE. 143

Tankoo, where my naval Mend had pat up the oob
the day before, had given him his fill of Indian oom
(and he was a glatton and very fat), and then as
much water as he chose, and the result was as might
have been expected He was one of the finest beasts
I ever saw ; I had got him about ten days before,
from a lot of about 200 Tartar " remounts,** which
Probyn*s or Fane's horse had captured in the plain
on the 12tL These animals, which the Chinese
cavalry are mounted upon, are from thirteen and a
half to fourteen and a half hands high, well and
strongly made, though not often handsome ; of great
endurance, fast and very sure-footed. One which
Probyn got, taken by one of his own sowars at
Changkeawhan, a piebald, was about fifteen hands
high, and by fitr the handsomest horse I have seen
in China. He was perfect Probyn took him to

From our damp camping-ground at Sinho we were
moved into Tankoo, which was a change for the
better, inasmuch as anything ahnost is to be pre-
ferred to a bell tent, and there we got into a house ;
but the place was very dirty, and had an evil smell,
and eveiyone rejoiced in the prospect of a speedy
change of quarters to Tien-Tsin.

144 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER IX.

Gardens — "Great Kings"— Up the Feiho— IMplomacy—- Advanoe on
Pekin— Transport — ^A Morning's March — ^A Bantam Cock — Hoosee-
woo— Grapes ^Advance from Hooseewoo— Chinese Treachery-
Walker's Escape — Our Surprise— Proposed Camping Ground —
Battle of Changkeawhan — Prohjn's Charge — A narrow Escape.

The country on the south bank of the river jfrom the
Forts, up beyond the bridge of boats, for a distance
of some miles, was one continued garden and orchard ;
vegetables of various sorts were cultivated with great
care, sweet potatoes, bringalls, chillies were abun-
dant, while above on standard *trees hung peaches,
nectarines, apples, and pears in the richest profusion.
These fruits were just now ripe, and as the owners
had deserted them, we paid our respects to them
very diligently. The French were encamped in
these gardens, and they certainly had much the best
of it, as they had abundant shade, while our poor
fellows were still on the arid plauu A few days
after the capture of the forts a commission was sent
round to ascertain the number of the guns taken,
and to divide them with our allies. It was a busmess
which occupied more than one day, and the officers
were obliged to sleep on some straw in a joss-house,

UP THE PEIHO. 145

and get proyisions as they could. They had sent
out by a native overnight to get any sort of the
country produce that could be had, and these pro-
visions were to be brought in next morning. So, as
they lay in the straw very much tumbled, very
unwashed, and looking anything on earth but their
best, about six o'clock a Chinaman thrusts his head
into the room through a trap-door, and calls out in
m most respectful tone in his native tongue, *^ Arise,
great kings, fish and fowl have arrived.** When
they were made aware of the Chinaman's address,
the eflTect was irresistible. Feeling anything but
royalf very dirty, and very mean, they could not
but laugh at the idea of such mighty monarchs
lying unwashed and uncombed on a couch of straw.

Bat we were not destined to remain long at Tan*
koo, and so much the better. Admiral Hope went up
the river in a gun-boat to Tien-Tsin, and meeting with
no enemy, the way was clear for Sir H. Grant and
stafl^ or rather a part of the staff, to proceed up the
river on the 25th. The rest of the staff followed in
a few days. I shall not soon forget the kind hospi-
tality which we met with firom Captain on

board the * Carthage.' We were to have brought our
own provisions and received merely a passage from
him, but he would not hear of such an arrangement ;
he provided a most sumptuous repast for us on deck
under a double awning, supplied abundance of
champagne for those who liked it, and draught beer
for those who preferred that, — an unheard-of

146 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

luxury in those days, — ^and above all, we had a
snow-white table-cloth, a sort of thing to think of
and hold on by, so that really upon the whole you
felt quite inclined to pull up the gills of your shirt, if
you had any, or at all events to go through the form
of diving for them, like " Mr. Montague Tigg did 1 **

The * Carthage ' was about as large a vessel as
could navigate the Peiho, drawmg about thirteen feet
of water, but by good management she was brought
up. We arrived next morning at Tien-Tsin (having
anchored in the river at dark), took up our quarters
in a temple near the river, and remained there until
the 9th September. The interval was passed in in-
glorious rest. It was beyond doubt the universal
opinion at the Embassy that the war was at an end,
and of course the army took their view of politics
from the diplomatic circle. The siege-train was to
be embarked; the Royals were under orders for
home^ and various dispositions of the army were
announced, which all spoke peace, and which were
made doubtless from representations received by
Sir H. Grant from Lord Elgin.

The question anxiously discussed at Tien-Tsin
was this, who was to go to Pekin as the escort to
Lord ElgiQ, for in that light alone the advance of
a part of the army was viewed. It was said (and I
believe not without foundation) that Lord Elgin
(never backward to incur personal risk in any form)
had determined to proceed to the capital with an
escort of 1000 men, but, however this may be, it ia

DIPLOMACY. 147

certain that it was definitely arranged between
the Ambassador and the Commander-in-Chief that
an escort should proceed with Lord Elgin to Pekin,
and I know that the arrangements were so &r
matured as that the King's Dragoon Guards were
named for that service as part of the force ; the
French having no cavalry, were to have taken the
horses fix)m their gons, and had began to train them
to cavalry movements. Guns were not to form any
part of this force.

The Commissioners sent from Pekin to treat with
Lord Elgin stipulated that all our artillery should
remain behind, as they said our guns were so formid-
able that they would ^^ disturb the minds of the
inhabitants ** if they were brought northward. Sub-
sequent events proved what fearful treachery the
Chinese Government was then plotting against us,
and how a good and gracious Providence was watch-
ing over us to prevent us from falling into the snare.
("Draw me out of the net that they have laid
privily for me.") On the 6th the Commissioners
Kiuliang and Hang-Foo announced, through Mr.
Parkes, C J3., when it could no longer be concealed,
that they had exceeded their authority in the pre-
liminary arrangements which they had made with
reference to the signing of the Treaty, and that they
ooold not vouch for their views being carried out by
the Chinese Government

Great was the surprise caused by this announce-
ment, bat in the army the feeling was in general one

L 2

148 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

of satisfeiction, expressed thus, " Hurrah 1 now we
shall all go to Pekin !" And truly enough the ad-
vanced part of the force marched out of Tien-Tsin on
Saturday the 8th and Sunday the 9th September,
and on Sunday night we all encamped at Pookow.
Sir H. Grant and his staff having ridden out after
divine service on Sunday. Lord Elgin accompanied
the force, which consisted of the King's Dragoon
Guards, Fane and Probyn, the 99th, Royal Marines,
one Punjaub regiment, with Desborough*s, Barry's,
and Sterling's guns. The country through which we
marched on Sunday and Monday was flat and unin-
teresting, except the amount of interest which the
soldier must ever feel in a country which he at one
glance perceives is competent to supply him with
any amount of fresh provisions, vegetables, and
fruit

I do not think that the everlasting " three days'
cooked rations " were much relied upon during this
journey. Fowls were to be had in any number for
love or for money, and I imagine that the former
generally ruled the market, as Scott says that it
rules " the court, the camp, the grove." On Mon-
day we encamped at Yangk-Tsun, close to the river,
whieii ran upon our right, and we were obliged to
remain there on Tuesday, because the drivers of a
large number of country carts, which had been hired
at Tien-Tsin to convey the baggage and stores of
Lord Elgin and Sir H. Grant, decamped in the
night, taking their mules with them, but leaving be-

A MORNING'S MAKCH. 149

hind the carts, which they could not remove, as
they were under sentries.

Here was a difficulty. How was the array to pro-
gress without these stores ? Parties were sent into
the country to press all the animals and carriages
they could find, and with some success ; but Colonel
Anson walked quietly down to the river's bank, and
seeing a string of boats passing by, jumped on board
one of them and seized the whole number. John
(liinaman yielded at once, was charmed at the sight
of the " tf mighty dollar,** and engaged himself body
and boat to his country's foes, and all the stores,
&C., Ac, not required for immediate use, were put
on board the boats, and thus conveyed up the river
under escort, and we were enabled to march the next
morning.

Out we turned at about five a.m., the usual cup of
tea having been administered with the customary
success, tents struck while you are drinking it, and
the tea cup or tin tot put in your haversack or wal-
let A ride of this sort in the early morning, before it
gets too hot, is not without its enjoyment You
start with your next neighbour, and when the con-
versation begins to flag, drop your heel into your
horse, and ride on along the line, and a varied pic-
ture it presents ; with so many Indian troops as we
had in China you gain something of an idea of an
Indian campaign, but only somethbig. There were
the Punjaubees, and very fine fellows they are, tall
and muscular, though small, very small, in the leg,

150 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

and this small leg exaggerated by the tightest pos-
sible cotton trowser, tighter than the skin, but some-
how they can march on those limbs, and march weU
even better than some of our own battalions. You
certainly would not think so to look at them. Then
Probyn*s Horse and Fane's Horse, that one is never
tired of looking at and admiring, they seem to be
such thorough soldiers, and a beau idial of light
cavalry ; you cannot help wishing that we had some
light cavalry in our own army.

Then there are any amount of camp followers, nig-
gers of all sorts, carrying most awkward loads in a
most ungainly manner; others driving the most
wretched of Manilla ponies, ten to one he never gets
to the end of the march. Happy is the man who has
renounced all except private carriage, and puts his
trust in two Tartar beasts, mules, ponies, either or
both, and a snug country cart, got, obtained, bought
{perhapsy but not at all likely), still gotten however,
and carrying his baggage, that man will be well off
at the end of the day ; nor am I bold to say that
when you are at war it is untenable in morals that
you should impress private carriage. Our commis-
sariat impressed every beast they could lay their
hands on, took them bodily away from the owners
without leave or licence except from the Commander-
in-Chief, and if they had not taken them our army
would never have got to Pekin.

I recollect being greatly amused by a little bantam
cock on that very march. He was tied by the legs,

A BANTAM COCK. 151

00 that he coald not perch on the top of a mixed
load of tent-poles and tin pots and more snch furni-
ture, and this load was on a pony's back ; his head
was as oflen hanging down as in any other position,
but by a vigorous flutter he sometimes got upright,
and then he let off a succession of crows, dwelling
on the final note, as much as to say that he felt him-
self equal to any other cock in creation, and did not
care one button for all the iUs of life.

I could not help admiring him, and thinking what
a pattern little cock he was to bear all his troubles
in such a triumphant spirit. We encam))ed at Nant-
sai-Tsun and marched next morning, Thursday, for
Hooseewoo, a considerable town on the river; wo
did not take up quarters in the town, nor were our
men permitted to enter it ; we camped outside, and
some few of us got into temples, which was much
pleasanter than being exjKDsed to the sun in a bell
tent

Ceres is, I believe, the goddess, not exclusively of
com, but of fruits, and therefore I would seek her
inspiration to tell of the wondrous fruits which we
found here. Bacchus presides especially over the
grape, but his inspiration is of too spirituous a cha-
racter, and here where I write at this present you
might, if so ^ dispoged,** as Mrs. Gamp says, seek it
m vain, as there is no wine to be had but *^ wink-
ler*s ** stufl^ which is as innocent of the grape as a
bunb. Never did I see such an abundance of splen-
did grapes in my life as at Hooseewoo. I went out

152 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

early in the morning before the son was strong, and
wandered into a garden near the town, taking a
coolie, a basket, and some Chinese cash, which, as
all the world knows, are the current coin of the
Empire, a round bit of brass about half-a-&rthing's
weight, with a square hole in the centre by which
they are strung in knots of a couple of hundred.
You get about a thousand of them for a dollar.

I saw a " little hut among the bushes," and found
three or four men in it, and one old fellow who was
evidently the master. They "chinchinned" very po-
litely, and I showed them some cash to prove the
honesty of my intentions, when they unlocked an-
other door out of the hut which opened into such a
grapery as I never saw before or since. It was an
arbour composed completely of vines, so thick that
the densest rays of the sun could not penetrate it ;
about forty yards long by fifteen wide and fifteen or
twenty feet high, and fi*om the roof and sides hung
clusters of the firuit, for size, bloom, beauty of form
and flavour, surpassing anything I had ever seen. In
a minute several of the finest bunches of different
sorts were placed in a basket at my disposal, and I
began to dispose of them pretty fast, — they were as
cool as the night dews, and I am almost ashamed to
reflect upon the quantity of them that I devoured.
While feasting thus, I selected a very large basketful
of the finest clusters for our mess, somewhere about
thirty or forty pounds weight, and I then went out
into the garden and got another basket of vegetables

HOOSEEWOO. 153

of various sorts (but I cannot praise the vegetables
in the north of China), and then came the important
question of payment ; these unsophisticated folks did
not vet know that mighty question which John China-
man so soon learns from the European ^^ how much "
" combineno ; " so I laid before the old gardener a
quantity of cash and made signs to him to help him-
self; he had previously weighed both the grapes and
vegetables, and to my no small amazement he took
about half-a-dol]ar*s worth of cash for all that I was
carrying away and all I had eaten, and seemed quite
pleased with the bargain. I tell this story at length
to show that there is one honest Chinaman in the
Empire, as some people doubt it

Hooseewoo is rather a picturesque place. The
town itself is, like all other towns of its class in China,
poor and dirty, with nevertheless some good houses
in it Lord Elgin had a ver}' excellent house on the
outskirts of the town ; but the ground in the neigh-
bourhood is undulating and well planted, which was
a great relief after the flat and monotonous country
through which we had hitherto marched. Here we
remained until Monday morning, and between the
scenery around and everything else, we liked the
place very well. Our delay was caused by the nego-
tiations which were being carried on between the
Chinese Government and the Plenipotentiary, also
we waited the arrival of some more troops, and it
was finally arranged between Mr. Parkes and the
Prince of I, or Ai, that we were to encamp on a

] 54 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

place marked out by the Chinese authorities within
three miles of Changkeawhan, six of Tungchow, and
fifteen of Pekin, and that from thence the Ambassa-
dor was to proceed to Pekin with an escort

From this place (Hooseewoo), it was that, with a
confidence unwarranted, as the event proved^ and
fatal, alas ! to several, Mr. Parkes and his party pro-
ceeded to Tungchow; but this event must not be
anticipated.

On Monday the 17th we marched fix)m Hooseewoo
to Matow, where we encamped ; and next morning
struck our tents before daylight to march, as we
imagined, to our permanent camp ; and so little did
we anticipate anything in the way of fighting,
that the customary revolver was put up. The
French were marching in advance of us, and one of
their staff came back in haste to inform us that the
Tartars were in position in front, some two or three
miles off. Still, few believed that they could intend
to oppose us, as the pacific assurances of " the Prince
of I *' were of such a definite character. Our bag-
gage was all parked at a village, supposed to be out
of range, and we marched on to within about half-a-
mile of the Tartar army ; but the General and the
staff rode on to a mound within about 400 yards of
the enemy's guns, fi*om which a good deal of their
movements could be seen.

A Mandarin, whether civil or military I do not
know, came into our lines in a chair to say that all
was right, and that we were to encamp where

CHINESE TBEACHEBY. 155

we were. Now, I must relate how our position
was complicated* Mr. Parkes had gone on from
Hooseewoo, accompanied by Air. Loch, secretary to
Lord Elgin, Mr. De Norman, and Mr. Bonlby, the
* Times' correspondent, whom a too great zeal, alas !
betrayed to a cruel fete. Poor fellow I Little I
thought, when he and I waded through the mud
together at Petang, how fearful his end would be.
They had a small cavalry escort, conmianded by
Mr. Anderson, Adjutant of Fane's Horse, — another
victim of Chinese barbarity, an officer who was
deeply regretted by all who knew him. Colonel
Walker, of the Quarter-Master-Gencral's department,
was also sent oa to examine and take up ground for
our standing camp, and Mr. Thompson, Deput}'-
Commissary-GreneraL They arrived at Tungchow,
and were put up and entertained by the authorities
for two days; and on the morning of the 18th rode
out of Tungchow to meet us, as they supposed, at
the camping-ground ; but when they had arrived at
the further side of the town of Changkeawhan, they
were surprised to find a laif;e Tartar army drawn up,
with a number of guns, in position, behind a road,
with a small fordable river in their rear.

Mr. Parkes determined immediately to return to
Tungchow, and demand from the Prince of I what
the meaning of all this might be. Colonel Walker
and Mr. Loch promised to await his return where
they were. Colonel Walker was also accompanied
by Mr. Thompson, of the Commissariat department

166 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

He retained an escort of some three or four of the
King's Dragoon Guards. Mr. Loch rode through
into our ranks and reported the state of aflkirs,
announcing his intention of returning to meet Mr.
Parkes ; and it was suggested that it might be use-
ful if an officer of the Quarter-Master-General's de-
partment were to go with him, as he might have an
opportunity of observing the enemy's position. This
was said in the hearing of poor Brabazon, of the
artillery, and I rather think it was suggested to him
to volunteer for the duty. Ever ready for service of
this sort, and full of zeal in his profession, poor fellow,
he started, alas ! never to return.

Colonel Walker felt himself in a very precarious
position ; and so also did one or two French officers
who were within the Tartar lines. They were not
exactly prisoners, but they felt that if they made a
move in our direction they might be seized, as they
were followed and watched. The rest of the party
had not left Tungchow.

With so many of our people in the enemy's power,
Sir n. Grtint felt that he could take no decided
step ; but he was not kept long in suspense. The
French had marched off to the right to turn the
enemy's left, and with them a squadron of Fane's
Horse, commanded by Mr. Catley, while we waited
quietly in front of their guns, the Commander-in-
Chief and staff, as I have said, on a mound within 400
yards of them. The staff had, for the first and only
time during the campaign, brought a small box of

WALKER'S ESCAPE. 157

provisions with them, ready for use at any moment,
imagining that it would be a long business getting
up the standing camp, and about half-past nine we
were quietly break&sting, waiting the course of
events, when, without a moment's notice of any
sort, a heavy fire was opened on the right of the
Tartar position, in front of which their own cavalry
were swarming.

" What are they firing at ? " we asked in amaze-
ment ; there was no enemy in front of their right.
" Fools, they are firing on their own cavalry,** as we
saw two empty saddles, and the horses galloping for
our lines. While we were speaking, however, a
retreat was made by the Gkneral and staff torn
their elevated post ; and, as they reached the troops,
the cause of the firing was explamed. Colonel
Walker and Mr. Thompson galloped up with three
or four of the King's Dragoon Guards. They had
escaped firom the Tartars, and run the gauntlet of
their fire fi*om large guns, gingalls, matchlocks, and
everything that could be brought to bear oa them,
Mr. Thompson being slightly wounded by a spear,
and one man and one horse shot, but not dan-
gerously.

Colonel Walker's story in brief was this. He had
begun to feel more and more anxious about the &te
of the five men with him, as he was of course bound
to consult their safety, as well as his own; he
observed active preparations for an attack going on
in the Tartar lines, while there was a growing dis-

158 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

position to control his movements ; once his sword
was taken away, but returned to him again; at
length a French officer, who belonged either to the
Scientific Mission or to the Commissariat, and who
had got into the same position as Colonel Walker,
was roughly handled by the Tartars, and the back
of his head laid open by a sword-cut Colonel
Walker hastened to interfere on his behalf, made
signs that he was his Mend, and that they should
desist fix)m their attack upon him; supported the
French officer's head, as he was badly wounded,
and spoke some words of comfort and encourage-
ment to hiuL This appeared to bring matters to
a aisis, as to Colonel Walker's own fete and
that of his little party; he was surrounded, the
scabbard of his sword tilted up and the sword
snatohed out, his legs were seized and a vigorous
attempt made to unhorse him, and two minutes
more would probably have made a vacancy in the
lieutenant-Colonelcy of the Bays ; but it was not so
to be ; his resolve was taken in a moment, and as
promptly carried out ; he waved his hand to his men,
and called to Mr. Thompson to follow him ; they
rode through the lines, and forcing their way out to
the fit)nt were obliged to cross the line of fire of
some twenty guns in position before they could
reach our army. While Colonel Walker was giving
in few words his story to the Commander-in-Chie^
a very heavy fire was opened upon us, converging
upon one place fix>m guns laid in such a maimer

PBOPOSED CAMPING GROUND. 159

along nearly all their front as to command this spot ;
some in front, and some raking the whole position
from both flanks.

Thisy know, O Englishmen^ was the ground
marked out by the Chinese for your army, where
we were to have been encamped and butchered in
cold blood, only that they were thrown off their
guard by the attempt to detain Colonel Walker;
and we were not quite so foolish as to encamp with
an army and sixty guns in position in our front,
within easy range. Colonel Walker had had a serious
dispute with the Chinese authorities as to this very
{dace ; he said that we must camp along the river,
as water was necessary. ** Yes," they replied, " but
we will carry the water for you." But, no, Colonel
Walker would not at all agree to any place that did
not give us perfect command of our supplies ; they,
on the other hand, would not give up the river, as, if
they had, they must have lost the strong position in
front of it, a raised road along which their guns were
laid.

Then, as they kept up till the last moment the
pretence of peace, when asked what the meaning
of that large cavalry force was which was gradually
Btealii^ away to our left, evidently to outflank us,
cot off our bi^gage, and interrupt our communica-
tions. The answer was pat, " Oh ! they are going
to collect provisions for you in the country.** And
yet with all their villany they were shallow rogues ;
it was easy to see through this trick. They thought.

160 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

no doubt, that as we had been gulled upon former
occasions, so we would be now.

Orders were now given to Desborough's guns and
Barry's Armstrongs, protected by the King's Dra-
goon Guards, to open upon their artillery to the front,
while Sir John Michel took Sterling's light six-
pounders to the left, along with some of Probyn's
Horse and the Queen's, to prevent their cavalry
from outflanking us on that side, or reaching our
baggage, which was in the rear. The 99 th were on
the right centre, and the 15th Punjaub on the left.
The Tartar cavalry was so numerous that it was im-
possible to do more than guess at their numbers, and
you may add to this, that they enjoyed the advan-
tage of being partially covered by the tall millet
which was as yet uncut on the ground which they
occupied, whereas we were in the open, and our
horses galled and lamed frequently by the strong
stalks of that com stickmg up everywhere, like
pointed stakes, from two to three feet high ; and, as
they had been all cut with a slope, they were very
nasty things to ride through ; you were safer gallop-
ing than at any other pace.

The Tartars had With their cavalry some gingalls,
carried between two horses, and trailing along the
ground with its stand, a tripod ; one unlucky soldier
whose duties required him to stand behind the piece,
was invariably knocked over by its recoil; these
&lls we imagined to be the effect of our own fire,
until seeing the men always jump up again, we

PROBYirs CHARGE. 161

learned how it was ; with these and their matchlocks
they kept up a smart fire, bat did not do as mnch
damage, as in order to secare a long range they
ose great elevation ; the conseqaence is that the ball
dfc^ and does not ricochet, so that instead of
sweeiHng over an immense space, as oar more direct
fire does, and catching anything within its range;
the gingall ball will not toach you unless you are
unfortunate enough to be on the spot where it drops.
We opened fire upon them with our six-pounders, and
no doubt astonished them not a little, as we could
see by the dust that they were on the move ; and after
a few rounds Probyn's Horse, who had, man and steed,
been standing chafing and champing on the bit with
impatience, were let go at them, and anything more
brilliant or chivalrous I am at a loss to conceive. I
saw it, and were I to witness another battle, I should
say let me see such a sight once more. To be
counted by tens, they sped like a thunderbolt against
thousands of the enemy, and irresistible was the
shock ; they went through and through them like a
cannon shot through a deal board, charged back
again, through them again, and then wheeling right
and left, pursued*

It was a noble sight, the very thought of it
makes the heart bound Fast, very &st and strong
are the Tartar horses, and well was their speed tried
by Probyn's «aowars ; dodging fellows are the Tartai-
soldiers, well trained as the Indian to stretch along
this fdde of the horse or that, to avoid a shot^ a cut.

162 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

or a thrust, and all their arts were tried that day,
but by many tried in vain, as the ground showed as
I rode over it after it had been swept by the little
handM of irregulars. In every attitude of death
they lay, and many unhorsed and wounded, who
feigned death ; nor was it safe to go near these fel-
lows, expecting no quarter, they would fire at you
from behind, if possible, and in this way several of
our men were wounded. I had rather a narrow
escape; I was sitting on my horse looking at a
Tartar, a remarkably powerful man, stretched in
death apparently at my feet, beside him lay a spear
decorated with a very handsome flag, and as it
happened, being quite unarmed (as no one expected
when we marched in the morning that there was to
be a fight), I contemplated arming myself for the
remainder of the day with the lance of the prostrate
enemy.

But just as I was in the act of dismounting, my
right foot out of the stirrup, the dead Tartar
stretched out his hand, seized the lance, and with
one movement sprtog to his feet ; unarmed, I lost
no time in placing three or four horses* lengths
between myself and the Tartar, and it is difficult to
say which of the two was more alarmed, for the
Tartar bolted for a village at hand as &st as he could
run, he was unwounded; having been simply un-
horsed in the charge, he feigned death, but imagin-
ing, no doubt, that I was dismounting to despatch
nim (having discovered the feint), he determined to

A NARROW ESCAPE. 163

fi^t for it : whereas I, having nothing to fight with
(and very glad I am that I had no weapon), and seeing
a dead man, as I imagined, come to life, thought that
a quick retreat was just the thing for the occasion.
The poor fellow, however, was not destined to
survive, another officer rode at him and shot him
in the back with a revolver, he fell, and the officer
drew his sword, but the undaunted Tartar sprang
again to his feet, unhorsed the officer with his lance,
and again fled ; but a sowar of Probyn's (orderly to
Colonel M^Eenzie) gave him the &tal throst ^Fm
awful civil to that orderly of mine,** said my friend.
Colonel M^Kenzie, to me, ^ I have a great respect
for the man since I saw the way he polished off
that Tartar; he*s the last man in the army Fd like
to quarrel with ; Fve a great respect for him, I assure

ye."

Probyn's Horse returned, and no more was seen of
the Tartar cavalry on that day, but in the distance.

M 2

164 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER X.

Baming Camps— Cbangkeawhan — ^Looting — Suicides — House of Re-
fuge — The Field of Battle— Home-like Scenery — Coolies— Mickey
King — Packing Baggage— Advance of the Tartars — Useless Squares
— Charge of the King's Dragoon Guards — Irregulars — Camp and
Tillage burnt — An Armstrong Shell.

Meantime in the centre, our artillery having nearly
silenced the enemy's guns, Sir H. Grant moved on
with the 99th and 15th Punjaub Native Infentry and
turned the right flank of their position, without any
very great loss to them ; and the rest of the day was
occupied by us in burning several large camps, which
lay to the left beyond the town of Changkeawhan, a
range of about four miles ; while Probyn's Horse and
the King's Dragoon Guards, with the six-pounders,
were occupied in pursuing the distant dust of the
Tartar cavahy, having spent several hours in endea-
vouring to catch them, led by Sir John MicheL We
could not perhaps safely have left them unwatched,
as our baggage was still in the village in our rear,
supposed to be out of range of the enemy's fire ; but
those large Chinese guns carry a long way, for an
officer of the Military Train, Captain Goodall, was
knocked ofif his horse and badly wounded by a round

CHANGKEAWHAN. 165

shot, and more than one priyate soldier also of the
baggage guard.

And here, knowing what we now know but did
not know then, it appears to be matter of regret that
the cavalry and some of the guns were not pushed
on to Tungchow, only eight miles from the scene of
action, to invest or watch it, or blow in a gate and
take it, as they might have done ; for then the lives
of all the prisoners might have been saved ; there
was nothing to prevent this, nothing at least when
weighed against the safety of so many valuable lives,
which were, alas I lost by this one day's delay ; but
this did not occur to the Commander-in-Chief, or did
not suit his plans.

On the right the French, having turned the
enemy's position, swept their whole left, and usmg
their in&ntry more and their guns less, inflicted
a more severe chastisement upon the Tartars, as
the ground showed when we rode over it the
day but one after. Lieutenant Cattley, with a
squadron of Fane's Horse, having been attached to
the French, highly distinguished himself. The Tar-
tars could not stand against our Armstrong sheUs,
and they had made a clean bolt of it before our in-
fimtry could catch them ; whereas with the French
they fought more, and suffered more in proportion.

About three miles from the scene of action lay the
town of Changkeawhan. Through it the road to
Tungchow lay, and by that road Sankolinsin retreated
his beaten army of 30,000 men, minus killed and

166 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

wounded a considerable number ; that he commanded
in person we learned afterwards, and the amount of
his force we learned also from a reliable source. Sir
H. Grant had made an accurate calculation of the
number of the enemy, as their own authorities sub-
sequently gave that number. Changkeawhan is a
large and straggling town, walled, with a river sur-
rounding a large portion of it It contains, or rather
did contain many large warehouses and excellent
houses, inhabited by wealthy people ; they had nearly
all fled, and few remained but the poorer people, and
of course the ^^ budmashes ; " it had also one mighty
pawn-shop. Into this town we marched about 6 P.M.,
having been in the saddle since 5 A.M., a long day
under a baking sun. The in&ntry were quartered
in houses in the town, the cavalry and artillery were
encamped just outside it

This was the first place given up to the troops to
plunder by the C!ommander-in-Chiefi and every one
thought very justly, as a punishment to the Chinese
for their treachery. The Indian troops, the Hong-
Kong coolies, and the Indian camp-followers, showed
their superiority to the British soldier in the practice
of looting. The natives "^and Indians knew where to
look for valuables, and would turn a house inside out
while the soldier was thinking how he should get in.
I did not hear of an3rthmg of real value being found,
nor did the benefit which accrued to our force fit)m
their plunder equal the one-thousandth part of the
punishment mflicted upon the Chinese by their losses.

SUICIDES. 167

Some people imagined that tea of great valae had
been found in two warehouses in the town ; it was
brick tea, I made some tea of it, but could not drink
it, it was so bad. It was, however, all eventually left
there when we were returning fix)m Pekin. Many
of the women and young girls had been left behind
in the houses, and were found by our troops in the
quarters which they occupied, and they were treated
by oar officers and men with the greatest considera-
tion and kindness. Many had destroyed themselves ;
one young girl flung herself from the stone bridge
as the troops were marching over it, on to the dry
part of the river's bed, and died with (me convulsive
shudder. Several fitmilies of women were found
wholly oc partially poisoned by opium ; some we suc-
ceeded in recovering, but many died.

I took possession of a large house containing seve-
ral courtyards surrounded by rooms, and from which
the owner, a wise man, had not removed. He was
promised protection, and a sentry placed on the door ;
and here I collected all the &milies which I could
find in the town, and had them supplied with provi-
sions during our stay. One fat lady, who had a
young daughter and a crowd of about fifteen subor-
dinate women, refused to move from her own house,
where it was totally unsafe to leave her. Mr.
Swinhoe, the interi»*cter, exhausted in vain all his
eloquence upon her ; she said that ^^ our hearts were
not true," and " that she did not want to live.**
At length we lifted her into a cart, her daughter

168 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

followed, and the other women also, like sheep. Bat
so inveterate was her distrost, that she had very
nearly succeeded in strangling her daughter before
the cart reached the house of refuge ; the girl was at
her last gasp. These poor people, however, soon
found out that " our hearts were true," and that we
intended nothing but kindness to them. Great con-
sideration was shown by the old gentleman of the
house towards his compulsory visitors, he supplied
them wilii attendance, &c., &c. ; and the surgeon of
the 2nd Queen's was most kind in his endeavours to
recover those who had endeavoured to poison them-
selves with opium, and succeeded in several cases.

We remained at Changkeawhan until the mommg
of Friday the 21st. The country round it was to
from uninteresting, and each day of our stay I rode
out for an hour or two in the afternoon ; on the 20th
I rode over the ground of our engagement on the
day but one before. Soon after we left the southern
gate of the town we came upon the first traces of the
battle, unhappy Tartars who had been wounded and
come so far in their retreat, but had dropped and
died, unheeded and unburied; the sun had in that
short time blackened them and swelled their corpses
to a frightful size. As we went on, and came to
their line of defence, we could not but admit that it
was well chosen and very strong; a raised road,
fourteen or sixteen feet wide and varying fix)m six to
eighteen feet in height, made an admirable parapet;
through this they had cut embrasures, and their line

THE FIELD OP BATTLE. 169

of defence extended, I should say, for about a mile-
and-Brhalf ; they had about sixty large guns in po-
sition, besides a large number of smaller fi6ld-
{Heces on carriages, moveable by horses from point to
point as occasion might require.

Round each gun were the bodies of the un-
fortunate artillerymen in every attitude of fright-
ful death, mangled first by our Armstrong shells,
and rendered tenfold hideous by the effect of
forty-eight hours of a Chinese climate, which ap-
pears to possess a singular potency in putre-
fiftction. The telling effect of our fire was more
palpable as we came to their centre, where our guns
first opened upon them, and where they made the
longest stand ; their breastworks of trees torn and
shattered like grass by the Armstrongs, and those
fatal firagments dealing death wherever they touch,
now tearing away the side of a head, so that you
could hardly tell it was a head except fix>m its rela-
tive position to the other members of the corpse ;
now striking the body, and tearing a canal fix)m
abdomen to shoulder as it burst upwards, exposing
all the viscera ; again, a limb, and leaving nothing
but a fine shred of skin at the &tal spot It was a
sight (though seen before) never to be forgotten,
and one that while you gaze upon you say, God for-
bid I should ever see such an one again.

The enemy*s left, which the French outflanked
and took, was backed all along by villages, which
rendered that part of the position stronger, and

170 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

while the guns were not so numerous, the ground
upon the whole was more tenable, and that the
Tartars had made a better fight was, as I said
before, made evident by the greater number of
killed. Here you saw that the rifle and the bayonet
had been brought into play ; a courtyard where
a stand was made by the Tartars was strewn with
dead, for whose wounds you would have to look
till you saw the small dark spot Beautiful these
villages were, once so peaceful, now forsaken, blood-
stained, blackened by fire ; the abodes once of rural
happiness, now become charnel-houses.

The country all round fi*om this to Pekin is
thickly dotted with these very pretty villages ; and
I cannot pay the Chinese a greater compliment than
to say that they reminded me in a measure of some
of your own most picturesque villages, my dear John
BulL Yes, / have been reminded of England in this
part of China. The delusion was oh, how delightful !
It is almost worth while going away to find out
how much you love home. The dream passed
away hke a flash of lightning, but I blessed it as
it shone out to lighten the darkness of my heart.
You required, as the " Marchioness " says, to " make
believe very much," and then it was delicious ; the
orange-peel-and-water tasted quite like wine. There
was the grateful shade of over-hanging trees, richly-
cultivated gardens, and something very Uke the
" haulm** fences which you meet with in some of the
Eastern counties round the fiumyards, and the wells

HOME-UKE SCENERY. 171

of delicious cold, cold water which we have found
everywhere since we left Hooseewoo; draw it up
with the cord and bucket, and, if you are really
thirsty, say if you ever drank anything more deli-
cious ; go on another hundred yards and youll find
another well, just as cool and as good.

You must not look at the houses, or you are unde-
ceived at once ; not the comfortable red-brick cottage
(I hate light-coloured bricks) with tiled roof. No;
a mud-wall with a door in it, and inside the door a
courtyard, and round that the dwelling-rooms. But
now you find the whole place deserted, except per-
haps by an old and decrepit man and woman, who
" kowtow,** expecting to be killed ; you " chinchin,**
and pat them on the back, and they are very much
pleased. In the next courtyard you will probably
find half-a-dozen blackened corpses; it has been
occupied by the Tartar troops, and the French have
attacked them, with the usual result; matchlocks
and soldiers' caps, decorated with two tails of some
animal of the martin kind, sticking out behind hori-
zontally, strew the ground. War is an awful scourge.
Treachery of the deepest dye was meditated against
us, but it was mercifiQly firustrated. How did I join
in my heart in those deeply-expressive words of our
liturgy every Sunday, "Strengtlien her that she
may vanquish and overcome all her enemies ;** and
not less in those that follow, ** And finally after this
life that she may attain everlasting joy and felicity
through Jesus Christ our LoixL Amen.**

172 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN

Back we ride in the evening to Changkeawhan, and
find a very good dinner awaiting us, thanks to our
" number one** mess president, who fed us as well as
possible through the whole campaign ; a stem and
sturdy fellow he tms (and I hope is, and long will be),
who, if he did not see his way clearly as to the car-
riage of his supplies, would not hesitate to put us on
" rations,** and limit us with the most Spartan severity.

At Changkeawhan I became a gentleman. Start
not, gentle reader, you have not hitherto been read-
ing the effusions of a full private, or a travelling
gent I repeat, that here I became a gentleman, as
to the conveyance of my baggage. The town was
fall of all sorts of things; and carts, mules, and
ponies amongst the rest I had hitherto been de-
pending upon a pack-pony and two coolies (lazy
fellows they were, except under the stem rule of the
Coolie Corps), and my fellows had acquired so much
property of their own of all sorts, that, what between
cooking-pots, " chowchow,'* bedding, and loot of all
kinds, they rather required, than gave assistance, in
the general move. Remember, I had my tent to
carry as well as all other things required, besides
sundry official matters. In vain I had remonstrated
from time to time with the soldier attached to me as
to the increased, and ever increasing, "bundles**
which I saw each morning in the grey dawn beside
my own baggage when mustered for the march.
The answer I got was to this effect " It*s the coo-
lies, sir; and bad luck to them coolies I say, they*re

PACKING BAGGAGE. 17:!

the plagae of my life. One of them's sick, anyway
he says he is, and divil doubt him, I wouldn't won-
der. Didn't I see him makin' a baste of himself
with the little pig he cotch onbeknownst last night.
No wonder he wouldn't be able to walk, let alone to
carry his load this momin'. Here, coolie, you sick
fella; d'ye hear me talkin' to you. I say, 'you
savey,' come talkee master; you get up do master
pigeon, you savey." Here the coolie would grunt,
and pretend to be very lame ; and I was obliged to
put an additional load on my pack-pony, who, of
course, resented the injustice by kicking everything
off. Of this I was happily ignorant, for having seen
a fidr start I rode on. At the end of the march I
found my baggage had not arrived ; no tent, *' no
nothing." Bode back three or four miles, and found
the soldier sitting beside the baggage, remonstrating
in turn with the coolies and the pony, all of whom
had ^struck work;" and vigorous exertions were
required to bring up the baggage, I having had
nothing to eat or drink but a cup of tea at day-
break. Now, however, I again repeat, I became a
gentleman.

My Madrassee, on the day after we came to
Changkeawhan, when he brought me my morning's
cop of tea, addressed me thus, ^' Suppose master hab
kort, master get all baggages well, suppose I find
kort, master can take." The scamp had been out
kiotang at daybreak or before it, I have no doubt, as
when I got up he led me direct to the yard of a

174 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

house, which had been turned inside out, where
there was an excellent cart, and having taken care
to provide myself with an order from the Quarter-
Master-General to seize a cart, I brought it to my
quarters and felt happy.

lieutenant-Colonel Wolseley was sent on to recon-
noitre, and reported that the enemy were in force
about five miles ofif to the left of Tungchow ; and
all things being ready, we marched on the morning
of Friday the 21st directly on their position, at six
o'clock.

The baggage was parked in a village about three
miles from Changkeawhan, and we halted for about
an hour-and-a-half in a tope of trees, as the General
would not proceed until he was well assured that
the baggage was all safe, and there was some delay
in bringing it up. The French were on the right,
the country through which we were marching was
becoming more wooded every mile, and it was by
no means an easy matter to find your way in it, nor
could you see, &r in advance as the topes of trees
and large planted cemeteries, irregularly dispersed,
obstructed the view. Thus it occurred that we
came rather unexpectedly upon the Tartars. Sir
Hope was riding in front of our little force with
some of his staff, and the marines, 99 th, and the
Armstrong guns were advancing, the in&ntry in
column, and the cavalry on the left, when we were
surprised, as we marched down upon a road on the
left of a large cemetery, to see the General and staff

ADVANCE OF THE TARTARS, 175

come back to us at a round canter, and a dond of
dost in their rear about 400 yards off. They had
ridden forward under the impression that the sol-
diers whom they saw in their front were French
skirmishers (as the French had already engaged
the enemy), and discovered just in the nick of time
that these troops were Tartars ; the tall millet pre-
vented the General from perceiving whether they
were infimtry or cavaby at firsts

The Tartars seeing but a small party, rushed on ;
encouraged when they witnessed the retreat of five
or six officers fix)m as many thousands, on they came
in full career, charging up to our infimtry and guns.
How it occurred matters not; but it certainly was
a pity that our infantry did not receive this charge
in line ; no doubt the troops had pluck enough for
anything, but somehow the ideas of ^ cavalry " and
*^ square " seem so inseparably connected in the mind
of the British soldier and officer, that it has become
almost an instinct with him ; the word of command
"prepare to receive cavalry" is all very well, but
what cavalry ? What sort, how armed, how numer-
ous, ever^'thing else of this sort should he taken
into account before that everlasting square is formed.
Our tactics, it seemed to the ignorant, should have
been to let these Tartars come on, to encourage them
in every way to do so; their numt)er8 could not
avafl against our weapons, and what we wanted was
to reach them ; they had never yet had a good taste
of our infimtry, and now would have been the time

176 HOW WS GOT TO PEKIN.

to give it to them ; they knew an Armstrong shell
when they saw it, and they knew something of our
cavalry, but we never had such a chance in the
whole war of allowing the Tartars to feel the im-
pression of a Minie rifle, and it was lost ; the infantry
formed square, and fired a volley ; the artillery un-
limbered in an incredibly short space of time, and
two or three rounds of course drove away the Tar-
tars ; but if the guns had kept quiet, and the infan-
try had received the charge as the Highlanders
were prepared to do at Balaclava, the Tartars would
have known more than they do now about our
soldiers and our arms.

The infiintry fired, and the guns fired ; and that
was very nearly the last the guns or the infentry
saw of the Tartars durmg the day, for they moved
off to our left to a village, where some skirmishing
took place between the 99 th and the enemy. And
they showed a determined front about a quarter of
a mile beyond the village, and a very strong body
of cavalry, some 3000 at least, were formed in a
particularly advantageous position.

They were drawn up on the further side of a
deep sunken road, too wide for a horse to charge
across; and about 100 to 150 yards further on in
their front was another road of a similar description,
so that any cavalry charging them in fit>nt must pull
up, in order to get over both these serious obstacles,
while they were all the time subject to a galling fire
fix)m the matchlocks and gingalls of the enemy.

USELESS SQUARES. 177

Across this groand onr cavalry was ordered to charge,
the King's Dragoon Guards {ue. one wing of the
regiment, all that we had daring the campaign)
bemg in front, Fane's next, and Probyn's in reserve,
— ^the brigade led on by Brigadier Pattle.

They started in a good, easy canter, at about 400
yards bom the enemy, in complete ignorance, of
course, of the nature of the ground before them ; and
while the King's Dragoon Guards, commanded by
Colonel Sayer, were just beginning to press their
horses to the gallop, they were thrown on their
haunches at once, by road number one. Several
horses went down in the road, but the Brigadier got
them through, and started agam ; when, just as they
reached the enemy (who stood gallantly to receive
them), they came upon the second road. Into and
through it they dashed. No pulling up this time ;
a good many unavoidably went down, but the fortu-
nate ones, when once across, got a real good *^go in**
at the Tartars.

They had calculated that we could not get over
their "obstacles," or that their fire would throw
us into confusion while we were getting across.
But little did they know the mettle of the old
King's Dragoon Guards. Rest assured that the
Tartars never will make such a mistake again as to
receive a charge of British cavalry. Down they
went like ninepins as our long-armed " heavies" gave
them the pomt ; the weight of horse and man car-
ried everything before it, as, according to Homer,

N

178 HOW WE GOT TO PBKIN.

when the bursting of a dam, or the melting of the
snows on the mountains, floods the valley below.
No doubt the old heavies can do the work when
they reach the enemy ; but the difficulty is that the
horse has so much to carry, if the previous march
has been long, or the ground deep, as at Sinho; he
is done up before he encounters them. Here, how-
ever, they were all fresh ; and no troops could have
done better than they did, as the ghastly spectacle
proved to those who saw it at the time. One poor
fellow with the back of his head clean cut off; an-
other cleft from the shoulder, half-way down the
chest ; the next run right through and through, from
shoulder to chest, as he fled, caught by the superior
stride of the high-bred troop-horse ; another villain
with a frightful flesh-wound in the arm tries to pot
you with his matchlock from a little stook of millet
in which he has taken shelter, but perceiving that
he is discovered, and hoping for no mercy, he endea-
vours to have the first throw in the game for life ;
ah I a 99th man sees it, and bears down on him with
his bayonet You turn away in disgust ; but what
can you say ? the savage Tartar fights as a savage,
and if you don't kill him he will kill you.

A staff-officer told me that he had counted on the
day but one after, 140 Tartars on the ground ; a very
large number when you recollect that we had but a
handfrd of dragoons, and that the Tartars bolted as
soon as they discovered what stuff the British sol-
dier is made of.

CHARGE OF THE KING'S DRAGOON GUARDS. 179

The infimtry moved off to the right The Queen's
and 15th Ponjaub were on the extreme right of our
force^ the marines m the centre, and the 99th on the
left But Fane and Probyn had a smaU account to
settle with the wily Tartar. Probyn was in reserve ;
and Fane, in snpport of the King's Dragoon Guards,
charged on the left, and thus managed to catch a
number of them after they had been broken by the
heavy cavalry. He did not, however, escape the
sunken roads ; and from the impetuosity of the Sikhs,
and the independent mode in which they fight when
once let loose, they could not be brought so safely
through such diflScult groAnd as were the English
horse. Probyn, on the left again of Fane, cut off
their retreat completely from the direction of Chang-
keawhan, and so secured our rear and our baggage ;
but the worst of it was that, wherever those turbans,
either red or blue, were seen, or those lances glistened
in the sun, it served as a notice to quit to any Tar^
tars that were within sight They could not well get
at them.

While the irregulars were manoeuvring and pur-
suing on the extreme left, the Eing^s Dragoon
Guards, 99th, and Royal Marines, with one or two
of Barry's guns, advanced against a very strong
camp and village on the right of the light cavalry.
A well-maintained fire was kept up on the King's
Dragoon Guards, who were unable to penetrate into
the camp, as it was not only ditched, but was placed
in one of those groves of treee which are surrounded

N 2

180 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

by a growing palisade of pines, planted so close
together that even a foot-soldier could hardly squeeze
his way between them. Brigadier Pattle having
sent word to Sir H. Grant to this eflPect, the 99 th,
under command of Colonel Dowbiggin, were ordered
to carry the place, which they did in gallant style,
but not without an obstinate resistance from the
Tartars, who kept up a galling fire from the windows
and roofe of the houses in the village, until they were
dislodged at the point oi the bayonet The camp
rested on the village, and it was one of those village-
barracks, if you may so call them, which are found in
the neighbourhood oi Pekin, and are the permanent
residence of Tartar regiments, as the &milies of some
of them live there, and there are stores of grain and
provisions of all sorts. No doubt it was the feet of
its being the home of these soldiers that inspired
them with the determination which they showed m
encountOTmg the 9 9th, and fighting to the very last
The camp was a most charming place, deeply
shaded, and perfectly fenced ; it was as cool as the
thickest covering of the interwoven branches of the
dark pine could make it The tents were excellent,
like our Indian palls, and those of the commanding
officers were red or blue. They had been disturbed,
poor fellows, as they were preparing their morning
meal ; the stoves still burned, but the food was sadly
overdone ; all their properties, spare anus, and am-
munition were in their tents, which were soon in a
blaze ; the magazines blew up, and a large part of

AN ARMSTRONG SHELL. 181

the village was burnt also. Two other camps, much
like this, within aboat a mile of it, were also bnmt;
and a number of guns taken, in all three; Sir
H. Grant remained on the spot until the guns were
brought out of these camps and moved off towards
Palechow, our next camping-ground«

Captain Green, Assistant-Deputy- AdjutantrGene-
ral, First Division, captured some banners upon this
occasion of the imperial yellow, and bordered, which
proved that the picked troops which Pekin could
[Nxxluce had been brought against us, commanded
by princes of the Imperial fieunily ; and we heard a
rumour some time afterwards that one of them had
been wounded upon that day, and that this had cost
poor Captain Brabazon his life.

I have mentioned that we had one or two Arm-
strong guns along with the 99th and marines. Im-
mediately before the assault upon the camp and
village took place, as detailed already, we saw, at the
distance of about a mile-and-a-quarter, some Tartar
cavalry moving oflP past the end of a grove of trees,
which, as a background, caused them to stand out in
clear relief. A gun was immediately laid upon the
spot and there was time but for one shot ; we could
see that it had taken effect, but not until later in the
day was it known to what extent I happened to
pass the spot in the evening as we came near our
camping-ground, and I recognized it at once by the
grove of remarkably fine trees, and I never saw a
more ghastly sight than that which presented itself;

182 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIK.

three horses, or rather the limbs of three horses, lay
scattered on the ground, the hindlegs of one animal
were blown away several feet fix>m him, all were
shattered^ and one wretched heap of cotton tinder
and hnman cinder lay smouldering near; the other
bodies had been carried off, for no trace was to be
seen of the riders of the other horses. Then it was,
I fear, that riding in the rear of his troops, our Arm-
strong shell, which just caught the last of the colunm,
wounded the ignoble wretch who gave the brutal
order to put his prisoners to death upon the spot
Here, we suppose, that poor Brabazon died.

The sun was setting when we reached Palechow,
our baggage was just arriving, and it was only by a
struggle, and a vigorous one, that tents were pitched,
and horses picketed before the night fell.

PALBCHOW. 183

CHAPTER XL

Palechow— StondiDg Camp— Mettra. Paikis and Look— Marbl« Tomb
—Market— Camp Shaves — Sick and Wounded— Ultimatum— DepOt
— -Mahometan Mosque — ^Mi^or Brown's Hones — Bivouac — Brick
Kihis-— Skirmishing — ^Pekin— Our lost Alliet— Our Cavaliy miss-
ing — Head-quarter Temple.

We encamped on the evening of the 21st at Pale-
chow, about four miles fipom Tungchow, half-a-mile
or three quarters on the left of the great flagged road
which leads from that city to Pekin, and thus within
about eleven miles of the capital The ground chosen
was very good, a large canal close at hand supplied
abundance of water, as did the wells also, unlesfi, as
sometimes hapj)eneil, they were 8topi)ed up with the
bodies of Chinese women who had either thrown
themselves in, or been thrown in by others, I re-
member one well which was very central and a good
deal used, a ** beestie *' dropped his bucket or can into
it^ and sent down a hook to try and fish it up again,
but he brought up instead the Ixxly of a Chinawo-
man ; nor was it by any means the stem severity of
their virtue which led these poor women to conunit
suicide, it was the fear of being put to death by us,
after having been otherwise illtreated ; as when the

184 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

Chinese make war upon one another (as for instance
in the present rebellion), their practice is to put the
women to death eventually, so that it was to avoid
death in perhaps, as they feared, a worse form along
with other evils that they drowned themselves ; poor
things 1 had they only known it, they would have
been very safe. There were numerous topes of trees
in which general officers usually placed themselves,
while the unfortunate head-quarter staff were en-
camped on a small hillock surrounded by roads along
which every horse in the force went to water twice
a day, so that they must have eaten their peck of
dust at once. There were numerous villages all
round, from which almost all the inhabitants had
fled ; indeed, fh)m Palechow to Pekin the country is
studded with villages, and along the grand road it
is almost one continued town the whole way.

A large canal runs from Tungchow to Pekin and
appears to be a good deal used for the conveyance oi
grain; this canal lay between our camp and the
grand road. There was a bridge at the village of
Palechow, and we bridged it with boats about
three-quarters of a mile nearer to Pekin, as the nar
tive bridge would not carry our guns. Here we
were destmed to remain for some days, and weary
days of disappointed expectation they proved to be ;
we were however obliged to wait for reinforcements
and for our siege train before we made our final ad-
vance upon Pekin, while we held out our delay to
the Chinese as a boon granted to them to induce

MES8B8. PARKES AND LOCH. 185

them to deliver up their prisoners. Flags of trace
arrived every day with messages fix>m Pekin or else-
where, one more &lse than another, all assuring ns
that our fellow-coontrymen were safe and well Of
Mr. Parke8*s and Mr. Loch's safety we were assured,
as a communication came from them to the Embassy,
as Lord Elgin had come to the front from Hooseewoo ;
and in sending some clothes which they asked for, a
written communication was conveyed from the Em-
bassy to Mr. Parkes, by being sewed to his shirt as
if it had been a mark to fix the ownership of that
article ; it was written in Hindustanee.

About two miles fix)m our camp in the rear, on the
road to Tungchow, the French camp lay ; the canal
was here spanned by a splendid bridge of white
marble, but going to decay like everything else in
China, and not improved by a few shots from the
French guns, as this had been the scene of the hotr
test part of their fight on the 21st I rode over on
the 22nd to their lines, and the banks of the canal
were strewed with the bodies of the unfortunate
Tartars, while weapons of all sorts covered the
ground in some places. The Tartars had made a
retreating fight of it for about two miles with the
French, and this bridge had been the scene of their
final stand ; they had clearly exix^ctod that the allied
force would advance by the direct road from Chang-
kcawhan to Pekin, which led across this bridge.
They had laid their guns and stationed their force
accordingly. This, in fisu^t the French did^ and so

186 * HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

the J came in for the largest share of the fighting ;
whereas, onr force being provided with cavalry, was
better fitted to engage their cavalry and to prevent
them fix>m turning the left of the allied army, which
it had been clearly their aim to accomplish* It was
no difficult matter to trace back the French advance
fix)m their camp to the place where they were first
engaged; indeed, you might have hunted the trail
like a hound, as the unburied Tartars and their
horses already tainted the air &r and wide.

About a mile from the bridge was a most beautifiil
marble tomb, fenced about with cypress trees, planted
so close together that you could hardly force your way
between them, and thus forming a living palisade,
the space enclosed being some five or six acres in
extent, and beautifully planted with ornamental tim-
ber and shrubs ; you entered by a white marble gate,
outside was a moat, now dry, and a massive column
of white marble, richly chiselled, about twenty feet
high, and resting (as all the monuments of the great
do in this part of China) on the back of a huge tor-
toise in marble. This was evidently the burial-
ground of some great people, and stood in a grove of
fine trees. Here the Tartars had made a long stand.
Their guns here were trained on the road firom
Changkeawhan, and it was a very strong position ;
but the silent testimony of splintered trees, scores of
dead horses, and ghastly corpses of Tartars which
lay on every side, proved that the French rifled
cannon is a weapon before which no enemy, not

MARKET. 187

equally armed, can stand, and when they were once
made to feel the power of their guns they dreaded
the encounter again.

The Hon. Colonel Foley, who was with the French
army as ICnglish Commissioner, and no man could
be better fitted for such a post, where tact and good
sense are required, told me that at first the Tartars
advanced on the French so boldly and came to such
close quarters, that he drew his revolver, feeling cer-
tain that it was going to be a hand-to-hand encounter,
but this rashness upon their part was not repeated.
It is no use to repeat the details of horrid sights
which I witnessed from day to day in taking an
evening's ride ; it might not have been safe to take
the Pekin direction, and in every other you were
met by sad illustrations of the horrors of war.

Mr. Wade established a market in the camp ; the
authorities at Tungchow, some four miles off, were
only too glad to be civil to us, as their city was at
our mercy, and a little gentle pressure upon them
socm procured a good supply of fruit and vegetables,
the former as good as could be, but the latter, like
all Cliinese vegetables, in my opinion coarse and
bad. Oh I how often have I longed for a real potato ;
yes, and a piece of good English cabbage, despised
at home. Mutton also was brought to market, but
oar commissariat was still more dependent upon a
** foray ** with a party of Fane's or Probyn's Horse,
making a sweep some miles off in the country.

In this service, as in every other, these irregular

188 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

troops proved invaloable throughout the campaign,
in j&ct we could not have done without them. Their
own habits at home rendered them adepts in various
most important branches of cavahy duty ; they could
find their way so well in a strange country, were so
independent, that for keeping up conununications
they were invaluable, as well as for foraging, and
we had a long seventy miles of communication to
keep up with Tien-Tsin, and all our foraging to do
besides ; and then they were always as ready for a
fight as if they had nothing else to do.

Now, the British ^dier never having anything to
get or do for himself, being always used to have his
meat found and cut up for him at a certain hour, and
to be spoon fed with it, must be spoon fed always ;
then he wiU fight for you like a man.

So we went on existing at Palechow. " Shaves " of
aU sorts flew through the camp every day, so that no
one was surprised at anything he heard. As the
Brigade Major of the twentieth brigade (we will call
it so) walked into the tent of his Brigadier one morn-
ing he was met by the welcome words, " Well, Jones,
it's aU right, I'm glad to tell you it's all right; I
have it on the best authority it's all right.** Jones,
of course, thought of but one thing, that the pri-
soners were to be given up, the treaty signed forth-
with, and began to see visions of dulce, duloe domumy
and Mrs. Jones in esse or in posse^ or perhaps,
naughty man, of " the Bag." " Well, I'm sure, sir,
I'm very glad to hear it; we've been long enough

CAMP SHAVES. 189

in this beasUy country for my mind, and if it's all
right now, as you say it is, I suppose we shall get
away at once,** Brigadier : ** My dear fellow, what
are you talking about, did I say we were going away ?
I said, my toe was ^all right,' at least I meant to say

so, for T d told me so this morning, he has got

the bullet out" The dear old gentleman had been
shot in half^-dozen places at the storming of the
forts, and he thought that all vxis right when the last
ball was extracted So, of course, the shave for the
rest of the day was, " Did you hear it's all right ? "

"No; is it?" "Yes; Brigadier 's toe is all

right-
It was very hot in the bell-tents during the day,
and we had no others even for hospitals ; the conse-
quence was that the sick and wounded men suffered
a good deal; all that could be done however was
done. The Queen's secured some houses in a village
near their camp, where they had an excellent hospi-
tal, cool and comfortable, and those who were not so
fortunate shaded their hospital tents with millet straw.
Dr. Muir, our excellent principal medical officer,
joined us here, and took measures at once to send
the invalids and wounded to Tien-Tsin by boat down
the river from Tungchow. Among the former was
Brigadier Sutton, who was reluctantly obliged to
leave from ill health, and among the latter Captain
Bradbury, of the King's Dragoon Guards, who was
severely wounded between the shoulders in their
gallant charge on the 21st

190 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

I see no reason why I should detain you any longer
at Palechow. It is true that the army remained
there until the 3rd of October, but why need you
stay there an equivalent time ? There is nothing of
any great interest about it, except you like the
eflQuvia of horse and Tartar exposed to the sun for
days; all the thousands of ducks (beautiful white
ones, just like our own Aylesburys) which covered
the canal when we first arrived, have been killed;
they hardly lasted two days. Officers, soldiers,
sowars, sices, and Hong Kong coolies, all took a turn
at them ; all the mules and ponies in the neighbour-
hood have been driven in ; the sweet potatoes and
onions are nearly all gone ; the fiimiture of all the
houses in the deserted villages has been biunt for
firewood; sick and wounded have been sent away
down the river to the hospital ships. The siege-
train has arrived, plenty of ammunition been brought
up, "ultimatums** been sent in like the end of the
Presbyterian minister's sermon, "finally,** "lastly,**
" and in conclusion ; ** in short, there is nothing to
stay for.

A dust storm or two have rendered the place
rather disagreeable, so we will move on; it is
not fer, only about a mile-and-a-half to Chankian-
ying ; it is not my fault if they will give such out-
landish names to places in China. In order to get
there we cross one of the bridges over the canal,
march on to the paved road, ride along it for a mile
and then turn off to the right, and there yon are.

DEPOT. 191

This is the dcpdt, where all our reserve ammunition
is to be left, all baggage, packs, tents, and everj^thing
else, as we are to advance on Pekin quite unencum-
bered, and are to rejoice once more, as at Sinho, in
the bivouac, vice bell-tent, stored. Well, never mind,
we can do without the tenta

The depdt was formed in a very well chosen spot,
and withal a very pretty one ; it was one of the
splendid burying-places which abound on this side of
Pekm ; it was walled in and thickly planted, an<l
in a day the sappers made it very defensible. This
cemetery contained the handsomest sarcophagus
which I have seen in China, shaped very perfectly,
from white marble, and covered with sculpture
emblematic of the riches and virtues, &c^ of the
deceased I thought of Kuskin when I looked u|)on
it, and wondered what fault he would find with it
It was placed upon most graceful supports, and what
with the cool Cyprus which overhung it, and the
solemn tone which it imparts to the feelings, and the
classic beauty of the work itself, I felt greatly im-
pressiHl by it; such feelings, however, are not of
long duration in war time, the hard and stem realities
of life leave but little time or thought or care for the
gentler emotions.

The head-quarters and Lord Elgin, who advanced
with the army, were quartered in a Mahomedan
mosque on the extreme right of our line, of which
the camp of the King's Dragoon Guards, feeling the
dep6t on its right, formed the extreme left It was

192 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

interesting to watch the Sikhs, who formed part of
the body-guard, endeavouring to fraternize with the
Chinese Mussulmen, nor were the latter anything
loath. ^^ Mussehnan " is a word in constant use
among the Chinese followers of the Prophet, and I
have little doubt that its use saved the lives of some
celestials in this campaign from the sword or lance of
the irregulars. This mosque was of good size and in
good repair, but not handsome, and you could easily de-
tect firom some of the gear that lay in the storehouses
round the court-yard, that some purely Chinese obser-
vances, and not relating to the feith of the Prophet,
had been engrafted upon the Moslem's creed.

On Friday, October 5th, we marched from the
dep6t for some brick-kilns, about three miles from the
north-east angle of the city of Pekin. I never can
think of that dep6t without a laugh, as it reminds me
of one of the most ludicrous scenes I ever witnessed
in my life, and although I anticipate the date of its
occurrence, I will relate it here, as there is a fearful
dust storm to-day, and you are grinding the grits in
your teeth, even in your quarters, and consequently
I am glad to tell a merry story by way of contrast
to the weather.

A few days before we left Pekin, a court-martial
was ordered to assemble at Tungchow, to try one of
the marines who were quartered there, and a field-
officer. Major Brown we wiU call him, of the
— ^ty — ^th, was appointed to act as President, and
ordered to proceed from Pekin to Tungchow for

HAJOR BROWN*S HORSES. 193

the porpoee. A couple of sowars were to go with
him by way of a guide and escort, as we had lost
several men who had been, no doubt, caught strag-
gling by the natives and murdered.

The scene is laid outside the Deputy- Adjutant-
General's office ; Major Brown rides up, followed by
the sowars, while the Major's servant, private
Hagarty or Hanlon, walks behind his master in
order to see the Major make a "clean*' start of it
for Tungchow, which he is to do from the Deputy-
Adjutant-GeneraFs door. There is a strong sus-
picion that private Hagarty had been drinking his
master's health* Half-a-dozen people are standing
about ; you would have seen me there if you had been
there yourselt

Deputy-AdjutanlrGeneral, loc. — " Well, Brown,
arc you off for Tungchow?" (With his usually
bland manner and winning smile.)

Brown. — "Well, colonel, I suppose so, but I
really don't know the way there, and I just came up
here to ask you about it How am I to go ? I don't
even know whether these sowars know the road, for
I crannot talk their language."

Deputy-Adjutant-General. — " Oh, you can easily
find the road ; let me see, the best thing for you to
to do is to make for the depot, and then you will
see the tower of Tungchow from that"

Brown (who does not appear to see his way to
going there at all). — " Yes, but where is the de|K>t ?
I don't know my way there."

194 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

Private Hagarty (confidentially cum Hibemice). —
" Is it the depdt, major ? You don*t know the dep6t ?
don't you mind the place where you stole the first
horse?"

Brown. — ^** Eh-hem, eh-hem." Evidently much put
out by his servant's system of mnemonics.

Deputy- Adjutant-Gfeneral (biting his lips to keep
in his laughter, yet not appearing to have heard
Hagarty's remark). — " Oh, you won't find any diffi-
culty ; take the south-eastern road, and about twelve
miles off you'll strike the dep6t on your left."

Brown. — " Well, I'm sure I wish I knew rather
better where the depot is. You see, I don't know
the place at all ; there's the difficulty."

Hagarty. — " Ah, major, dear, ia it not know the
dep6t? Don't you mind what I am sayin' to you
about the horses ? You remember the place where
you stole the first one ; the white-fexsed horse I mean ;
well, thafs the dep6t''

Frowns were of no use ; even " a kick under the
table" would hardly have stopped Mr. Hagarty, who
appeared to forget that if the Major had stolen "a
white-faced horse," and others afterwards, as he im-
plied, the Adjutant-Gkneral of the army was not
the man to tell it before, as looting was at that time
only lawful for the Commissariat, and not, as at the
palace, open to all. Before he had well delivered
himself of the last sentence I have recorded, Msgor
Brown had " gone away," and it was well he had,
for the Deputy-Adjutantr(}eneral would certainly

BIVOUAC. 195

have either burst a blood-vessel, or forgotten his pro-
prieties and burst out laughing before Brown, as
everyone did when his back was turned.

In due time, after a march of about five miles, we
came to the brick-kiks, and here, after a halt of about
two hours, the army was ordered to bivouac I don*t
like a bivouac, especially when you have a hot day
and a chilly night, and very little in the way of
bedding.

One cart was all that each regiment was permitted
to bring by way of transport, and one only was
allowed to Uio staffl Some of us built huts of millet-
straw, and some got into a few Chinese houses scat-
tered about, which were deserted. Lord Elgin,
advancing with the army, was forced to share its fate.
We did not oversleep ourselves next morning. All
were astir before daybreak, as we ex|)ected to sit
down before Pekin, to have a fight perhaiis, or it
might be to storm the place ; no one knew how it
would be, but all were alive with expectation. We
marched at daybreak. Sir H. Grant had received
information from various quarters that there was a
large Tartar army encamped under the walls of Pekin,
and holding a very strong position on a bund, some
distance from the city wall. He, therefore, took a cir-
cuit to the right and approached the city nearly due
north, in order to turn any works which might have
been thrown up. This precaution the event proved
to have l)een unnecessary, although, at the time,
most prudent and right. Having marched al>out

o 2

196 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

two miles the army was halted in a plain more open
than the rest of the country, which, as I said before,
is covered with clumps of trees; and the General
ascended a brick-kiln more tall that its fellows, from
which he might learn something of the country,
and perhaps get a peep at the enemy, as we had not
as yet seen even a vidette or a skirmisher.

" Why are you not up there, M ? *' I said,

addressing a staff-officer; "that's your place, with
the GreneraL"

** Ah, I don't care to go," he replied, with that
dry, humorous smile which his friends know so
well. "There's too many generals and would-be
generals and amateurs there for me. I'll just stay
where I am."

So long did we halt that it became apparent to
the meanest capacity that break&st must be the
result. So it was a case of cold meat, biscuit, and
beer for those who had it ; anything else they might
happen to have for those who were denied that first,
I will not say of luxuries, but of necessaries in the
East

At about eleven or half-past eleven we (as Cap-
tain Wills remarked upon another occasion) ** got
the army under weigh" (I remember his asking me,
with a very grave fece, at one of our camps, ** if I
could show him where the King^s Dragoon Guards
were anchored," and whereabouts General Michel's
"moorings were"), and marched direct on Pekin.
The French were on our left rear ; and, except a

8KIBMI8HINQ. 197

sqoadron of the Eing^s Dragoon Guards, who formed
part of the advanced guard, the cavahy on our right
flank. We marched through narrow and deeply-
sunken roads, in which it would have been impos-
sible for troops to act ; and, besides, the country was
thickly studde<l with topes of trees and bramble-
underwood; so that our force might have been
greatly harassed had we been opposed even by
matchlock-men and gmgalls. We were constantly on
the ** qui r/iv," and frequently the word was passed
that the Tartars were in force in front; and so I
l)elieve they were ; indeed, I saw them more than
once, but they made no stand ; and just as the 60th
Rifles had been hurried on in skirmishing order, to
endeavour to catch them, they disappeared in this
most intricate of countries.

As we nearcd the large bund, which nearly sur-
rounds the city, at a distance of about a mile and
a half from the walls, in approaching a village, the
King's Dragoon Guards were fired upon, and some
skirmishing took place; but the Tartars speedily
bolted, and only one of our men was wounded slightly
in the back of the head by a gingall-ball

We crossed the bund by a cut through it, and
found ourselves in sight of the long-thoupht-ofi fer-
famed city of Pekin. Yes, there before us, right
down that road is one of the gates. We are halted
on the outskirts of a long street of suburb which
runs up to the gate, under the grateful shade of
numerous groves of trees; and the men, most of

198 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

them, having secured plenty of large ducks and fowls,
proceeded to dress them, making good use of the
present moment. The Commissariat seized a flock
of 500 or 600 sheep which were being driven away ;
so we expect to be fed well for one day or two, at all
events. "Far niente," but not in a very "dolce**
manner, was now the order of the day for some
hours.

Two or three of Barry's Armstrong guns were
rattled up with great parade, and laid on the opposite
gate, a splendid shot down the suburb street, which
was very wide, and a number of Tartars crossing and
recrossing in fix)nt of the gate as if they were mount-
ing guard. " Tartars, but are they Tartars ?" some
one says, " they are the French.*' The guns are loaded
and laid ; " but don't fire, they may be the French ;"
" they are the French ;" " they are not the French,
they are Tartars;" "well, if those are not the
French 111 eat my hat ;" " eat it then as fest as you
like." Such was the difference of opinion, but the
guns were not fired, and they were not the French
whom we saw. Our gallant allies, while we marched
on PeMn, crossed in our rear and marched on the
Ewen-ming-Ewen, some six or seven miles off on
our right. How this came to pass, how we lost our
allies, or how our allies lost us, whichever you like ;
how we lost our cavalry brigade, or they lost us,
happen how it might, it was unfortunate.

When the allied army was advancing upon PeMn,
the French found themselves at the Ewen-ming-Ewen

OUR LOST ALUES. 199

palace, six mfles off by a flank movement in the
rear of our army. How it was that when in every
other engi^ement or march each force had felt the
other, upon this occasion they had acted quite inde-
pendently, I do not know ; the result was that we
sat down before the city, where we ought to have
been, and they in the summer palace. Our cavalry
obeyed their orders in marching in the direction of
the summer palace. They searched for us until
night, and eventually bivouacked, without anythmg
in the shape of baggage, two miles from the French
and from the Ewen-ming-Ewen.

The question with us during the rest of the day
was, where are the French ? where are the cavalrj' ?
there was no fighting, or we should have heard some-
thing of it ; where could they be ? they might be
close at hand, and yet we might know nothing of it,
for although by no means a forest, the country was
so studded with small groves of trees, each so like its
brother, that you might be within a quarter of a mile
of your dearest friend on earth, and yet never sus-
pect it ; so by way of endeavouring to let them know
our whereabout, all, or nearly all, the bands of the
force were ordered to the top of the bund, some
hundred feet high in this spot, to beat off tattoo with
their united power ; but no result followed ; we heard
nothing that night of the French or of the cavalry ;
so we tried to sleep as well as we could in our igno-
rance, but before going to bed it is as well that I
should say something of the disposition of the troops.

200 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

At the entrance of this long street of suburb lead-
ing to the gate of which I have spoken, and on its
right, stood a large temple of Buddah, covering with
its various shrines and dwelling-places for the priests
(such a dirty and shabby lot) not less than twenty
acres of ground, all enclosed by a good twelve-feet
wall, and very defensible. The gates were all barred
within, but a few blows from a ram in the shape of
a large beam of timber soon pursuaded the men of
peace inside to open one of them; and here Lord
Elgin and suite, Sir H. Grant with his personal
staff, and the Head-quarter staff, took up their abode.
None of the " religious *' were disturbed, except those
whose quarters were required, and these were of
course quietly told to " depart,** nor was there any
wanton destruction of their gods, furniture, or
property. Outside in the rear were the artillery
head-quarters and most of the guns, but Greneral
Crofton subsequently moved into the temple with
his staff; Sir J. Michel occupied another temple
to the right front of the head-quarters, while Sir
B. Napier took up his abode in a house in the
suburb street on its left front The Queen's were
marched to an advanced post hatf-way to the gate
on the right of the street, the 60th Rifles occupied
quarters close to Sir J. Michel, the 99th and 67th
in the suburb street, near Sir R. Napier, the 15th
Punjaubees in advance in the same street, while the
8th formed the rear-guard.

THE FRENCH AND THE CAVALRY FOUND. 201

CHAPTER Xn.

Colonel Wolieley finds the French mnd Cavalry— How they canie to be
lo8t--Loni Elgin and Sir Hope Grant Timi the Summer Palace-^
Entrance— Hall of Audience— Gronnda— French Looting— The
BaUu»— Fun and Embroidery — Curioe and Silk — Gardens and
Summer-houses— Art and Natars— Interior of Temple— Golden
Idols^A Cliinese Summer-house— Fumituie of Summar-honse-^
Gardens — Chinese Plunderers.

Early next morning a salnte of twentyone gons
was fired from the bund in order to let the allies
know our whereabouts, and to find out, if possible,
our lost cavalry; but a more certain method was
adopted at the same time. Colonel Wolseley, with
an escort of sowars, is sent off to the Ewen-ming-
Ewen to seek for them, as it is just possible the
French may have gone there,

Nothmg loth, he starts off at daybreak. lie
only knows the direction of the palace ; that is quite
enough for him, rather more, in fi^ct, than he requires ;
if there is an officer in the army that can find his
way, he is the man. The Tartars may be in force
in the neighbourhood ; no doubt they may. It would
give double pleasure to his ride if there was a good
smack of danger about it He returned with the
news that he has found the French at the Ewen-
ming-Ewen, and our cavalry in the neighbourhood.

202 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

The French having, as I have already stated^
executed a flank march in our rear, had arrived at
the Summer Palace ; found it unoccupied, save by a
guard of eunuchs, although there were swarms of
Tartar soldiers in the villages for miles around it ;
indeed these villages appear to be the barracks of a
large army. They met with but little resistance;
one or two French officers were slightly wounded; and
that night General Montauban occupied the Palace.

It was a curious accident that we should be sepa-
rated but once during the campaign, and that upon
that occasion the French should march to the Ewen-
ming-Ewen. And another curious fact is, that while
General Montauban assured Sir H. Grant that " no-
thing had been touched" (which, of course, he be-
lieved to be the case), any number of richly-jewelled
watches were to be bought at that moment in the
French camp, " with a very large portion of silver and
gold," while the soldiers' tents and the ground around
them was a perfect blaze of silk and embroidery.

The Commander-in-Chief had, doubtless, sent a
message to General Montauban, by Captain Far-
quharson, A.D.C., to the eflfect that if he did not
meet with the Tartar army outside Pekin he would
march on the Ewen-ming-Ewen ; and this expressed
intention was not carried out, and it may be that we
were ourselves the defaulters, in not adhering to this
arrangement.

Between twelve and one o'clock on Sunday Lord
Elgin and Sir H. Grant rode out to the Ewen-ming-

HALL OF AUDIENCE. 203

Ewen with a strong escort of sowars and some of the
King's Dragoon Guards. Lord Elgin was accom-
panied by his suite, and Sir H. Qrant by his personal
staff, Sir R. Napier and staff, and Qeneral Crofton
and staff, one or two of the Head-quarter staff, and
some naval officers. After a brisk ride of some six
miles, guided by Colonel Wolseley, they arrived at
the Palace. It is approached by a grand causeway
road, which divides a large sheet of water. The
outer gate is not very imposing, it is of the same
form as that used for all large public buUdings in
China, and with those leans-to, or supports, of wood,
without which it would &11 of its own accord.

Inside the first entrance-gate there is a large,
flagged courtyard, some hundred yanls wide by
eighty deep ; at each side, both within and without^
are guard-rooms. Fronting the grand entrance stands
another gate of similar construction ; then another
court, in which stands the " Hall of Audience," a
magnificent building, in which, in his imperial chair,
the Emperor gave audience to those few and great
ones who were honoured bv admission into the " ver-
million** presence.

This courtyard is about the same size as the outer
one, and the Hall of Audience stands at the side
farthest fi^m the gate ; one door by which the minis-
sters or others were admitted faced that gate ; while,
at the opposite side of the hall was the imperial
entrance, approached firom the palace.

This hall was a separate building, not attached to

204 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

any other ; its length was about 120 feet, its breadth
about 80. At each end stood one of those enormous
and splendid enamelled bowls, which the army has
presented to Her Most Gracious Majesty, at Major
Probyn's request, who took them from the hall himself
— ^minor spirits, being deterred from touching them by
their vastness, were contented with some smaller and
more suitable memento. But a difficulty is just the
thing for Probyn ; he contrived to get them away
when no one else thought of attempting it A large
and most elaborate plan of the Palace Gardens nearly
covered the wall at one end of the room. About half-
way down one side stood the imperial dais, which
was ascended by three steps, and upon it was placed
the chair of state, richly carved in dark wood, and
cushioned in rich embroidery.

The ceiling was of wood, deeply carved, very rich
and massive ; and there was an air of state, a solemn
dignity, about the place which impressed you not a
little, and rendered it most suitable to the purpose
for which it had been built Behind this hall was a
passage leading to the right and left, one side of it
being formed by the wall of the Hall of Audience, the
other by a large rockery. Following the path to the
right you found yourself in a labyrinth of courtyards
and buildings, frill of all sorts of curiosities, silks, and
stores of every kind of property ; while proceeding
to the left, and turning again to the front, you arrived
at an artificial piece of water, one of hundreds in the
grounds, and nearly all connected by a slow-flowing

GROUNDS. 205

Stream, surronnded by rockeries and bridged at each
end, where it narrowed. I need hardly say that all
aroond noble trees of various sorts cast their luxu-
rious shade ; and on the opposite side of this minia-
ture lake stood the imperial apartments, entered by
none save members of the imperial family. K you
can imagine fairies to be the size of ordmary mortals,
this then was fairyland. Never have I beheld a
scene which realized one's ideas of an enchanted
land before; would that its lord had not been
proud, &lse, and cruel, and he might yet have en-
joyed it

The party who accompanied Lord Elgin and Sir
H. Grant on the first visit to the palace were de-
tained here beside the water for several hours at
Gkneral Montauban's request ; he sent a message to
Sir Hope, begging that he would not bring a large
party into the palace, as none of the French officers
had yet been permitted to enter. So that Sir R. Na-
pier, General Croflon, Miyor Anson, and Captain
Grant only entered with Sir H. Grant, and Lord
Elgin introduced his attach^ The rest were left
to ruminate under the trees beside the small lake.
The Commander-in-Chief had a long conference
with General Montauban, and was assured that
nothing had been touched. It was agreed that, prize
agents being appointed, they should select such arti-
cles as they deemed fitting as prize for each army,
and that, when their selection was complete, the rest
of the property might be taken as individual spoil.

206 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

Bat on that afternoon Sir H. Grant gave permission
to such officers as were of the party to cany away
a memento with them, — anything they pleased, pro-
vided that the prize-agents did not object Of this
privilege everyone appeared to avail themselves ; and
while one became enamonred oi a gadestone vase,
another lost his heart to an embroidered robe, while
a third, with an eye to the fdtore, selected a fiir-
coat

Strange, is it not^ but nevertheless true, that we
sometimes cannot see things that are being done un-
der our very nose ! General Montauban was no doubt
sincere in his assertion, that ^^ nothing had been
touched ;" but it was passing strange that he could
not have seen that his own camp outside the palace-
gate was blazing with silk of every hue, and the
richest embroidery ; nor did he know that^ at the
same moment, you could buy a richly-jewelled watch,
enamelled and set round with pearls or brilliants, or
with both, for five or six and twenty dollars. How
cheap must watches have been in France when the
army started for China ! for how could they have
got them fix)m the palace when General Montauban
declared that he had placed sentries all round it ?

But how came it that when the officers who ac-
companied Sir H. Grant were detained outside the
imperial apartments, they were accosted by French
officers passmg and repassing them, thus, **Mais
pourquoi n'entrcz-vous pas, messieurs, cen'est pas
d^fendu d'entrer, majs regardez;" and diving into

FRENCH LOOTIKO. 207

the capacious pockets of his overalls, he would pro-
duce a bar or plate of gold. " C'est de Tor, voyez-
vous,** and he would proceed to bend it to prove its
ductility. Now, General Montauban did not know a
word of all this, although it went on under (as I
have said) his very nose; nor did he know that
although not in the imperial apartments, neverthe-
less in other rooms of the palace in which there was
valuable property to any amount, the French gun-
ner was to be seen with a large sack, filling it with
all sorts of things which struck his fancy.

And while on this subject, which has been so much
canvassed at home, I add and am moreover prepared
to assert that by far the greatest part of the property
acquired by officers and soldiers in the English force
was purchased from the French ; so that were you to
ask an officer where he had procured such or such
a curio, or dress, or watch, the chances were five to
one that he would tell you that he bought it in
the French camp. We had Indian allowances, and
they had the plunder, and we bought some of it ;
with very few exceptions, no officer or soldier in the
English force got a single article of intrinsic value
from the palace; although everything that came
fit>m the place has no doubt a decided value from
its associations; but the difference was just this,
that while the British officer looked for articles of
virtu, as a memento of the place for himself^ or fw
his friends at home, the Frenchman had an eye to
more solid advantages, and he reaped them.

208 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

And now let us take a look at the palace, L e. at
the imperial apartments. They were built, as every
Chinese house is, from the lowest to the highest, in
what I must call the courtyard plan. You enter
through a passage and one or two doors, one of the
state-rooms, furnished in the richest manner with
tables and seats of black or very dark wood — ebony,
or a wood of equal beauty, — carved in the most
elaborate manner, so that figures and landscapes are
made to stand out completely, and are often only
attached to the background by some one or two
points, which you do not see until you look for
them. No more perfect display of the art of wood-
carving could be conceived. Wainscots of the same
adorned the walls, while the seats and couches were
draped with the richest silk-embroidery, all of the
imperial yellow, and adorned with dragons in gold.

On the opposite side of the courtyard, about fifty
feet square, and flagged with marble, stood another
room, of larger dimensions, and furnished in a simi-
lar manner ; and all round it, on tables and stands,
were placed vases and cups of the most choice and
beautifiil gadestone, china, and enamel : clocks, gilt
and many of gold, several of French manufacture ;
mirrors of large size set in costly frames, while splen-
did glass chandeliers hung firom the ceilings. Boom
here opened off room ; and while they varied in size
and shape, the style and furniture were similar. This
suite of apartments stretched right and left ; the ex-
treme left of the building was sacred to the ladies

PURS AND EMBROIDERY. 209

of the court ; and here were some exquisite boudoirs,
fitted up with the perfection of Eastern luxury and
taste ; and a spiral staircase, the only one in the
building, led to a similar suite of apartments over-
head, a great part of whose ornament consisted in
the most rare and costly of Chinese works of art,
with a few, French in manufiu^ture as in design and
taste. These suites of a|)artments fronte<l another
sheet of water, surrounded by rockeries on a gigantic
scale (all planted), and opened out upon a gravelled
walk or drive, whUe, behind them, small courtyards
innumerable were surrounded by store-rooms filled
with boxes of furs, china, embroidered dresses, shoes
(which proved that the ladies of the palace were not
cursed with small feet, — I mean Chinese small feet).
The furs were ermine (but not valued much by
us, as the tails were wanting), sables, squirrel, un-
born camel, a very curious and beautiful grey skin
with very minute curls of hair, unborn lamb, black
astrachan, and others which none of us appeared
even to have seen before, and which we were
unable to name. But the imperial robes ; how am
I to describe them? Rich silk, blue or yellow,
brown or purple, covered with delicately-worked
embroidery, exquisite in colour and shading, as unri-
valled in execution, with the golden, five-clawed
dragon blazoned over the embroidery. Truly these
imperial dresses were a sight which conveyed lofty
ideas of the splendour of the court to which they
belonged.

210 HOW WB OCT TO PBKIN.

To the right of the imperial apartments the build-
ings of the palace stretched for about half-a-mile,
and consisted of the residences of officials, with ser-
vants' apartments, and rooms Ml of silk dresses, in
which, having been pulled out of their boxes and
thrown on the floor, you would sink above your
knees as you entered the room. Large rooms there
were too, with shelves divided into compartments all
round, and in each compartment was placed some
work of Chinese art, in gadestone, enamel, bronze,
or china, or some valued gift of the "barbarian"
relics of an English mission of the last century, or
some importation from France through Russia, each
article carefully labelled, and the label describing,
not only its age and origin, but the exact position
in the room which was assigned to it

In this wing of the building also the silk was
stored, and there seemed to be enough of it to clothe
half the population of Pekin. When the palace was
opened to indiscriminate plunder, these rolls of silk
attracted much attentibn fix)m the Sikhs, who carried
them off in cartloads ; they sold them in camp for
two dollars a roll at first, but their value was soon
raised to fix)m ten to twenty dollars. Various were
its colours and texture, satin or silk, plain or figured,
white, blue, yellow (the Imperial colour), purple,
stone, or fiiwn colour; there they were to be had
for carrying away, or if you chose to buy them,
8^. 4d. for fifteen or twenty yards ; all good husbands
who were there have no doubt got a supply for their

CURIOS AND SILK. 211

wives ; brothers and cousins, too, have no doubt done
likewise for the fiur ones who belong to them at
home. Oh ! what a pleasure it is to look at a gift,
whatever it may be, which you intend to present to
some dear one at home, and to imagine the pleasure
with which it will be received : but to return to the
palace.

The grounds extended for six or seven miles in
every direction, and further towards the hills. If you
can, yon must imagine a vast labyrinth of picturesque
rocks and noble timber, lakes and streams, summer^
houses roofed with porcelain of the imperial yellow,
theatres and their store-houses, filled with all the
paraphernalia for masquerades upon a gigantic scale,
one theatre and its belongings covering fit^m five
to ten acres of ground, all richly planted around ;
temples more numerous still, fiill of quaint deities
(some of them, as it has since turned out, of gold),
and every building within view of at least one other,
and all these filled with works of Chinese art of
great age, beauty, and value, and in the background
a range of hills, their outline cut clear against the
sky ; you must think of all the best gifts of nature,
in colour and in form, of trees, shrubs, and wild
flowers ; wood, water, rock, hill, and mountain you
must add ; then deck the scene with all the world-
fiuned skill of the Celestial in landscape gardening,
thrown in here and there so well that it looks like
nature's own hand ; scatter those beautiful buildings
round, with their gorgeous roo& peeping through the

p 2

212 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIK.

dark forest timber ; see, there is an imperial stag
bomiding across your paths ; conjure up the quaint
old Chinese bridge here and there, to cany you
across the feeder of some placid lake, with its orna-
mental waterfowl : and you may be able to form some
yery fiednt and indistinct idea of the Ewen-ming-
Ewen, which you can no more conceive than I can
describe.

I wandered one day for hours through its cool
shades and winding paths, from building to build-
ing, and here and there a terrace on the side of a
hill, with summer-houses, so cool, each containing
suits of richly-furnished apartments, now deserted,
most of them untouched, although I met scores of
Chinese carrying away heavy loads of plunder from
the outbuildings of the palace (chiefly cloth and

china). "Come,** I said to S j who was with

me, ^let us look at this place/' We ascended a
flight of some seventy or eighty marble steps, a
gentile stream of water at each side Ming into a
large marble basin at the bottom, bridged with
marble also ; we reached a terrace surrounded by
dark pine trees ; in the centre stood a temple, a large
circular building; we entered it, there was the triple
Buddah, and before him the ashes of the sticks of
incense, the last that ever were to smoke at his
shrine*; he was, or rather they were, huge, and in
gilded wood ; numerous smaller shrines were placed
round the building, with smaller deities.

"What is this?'' said S ; " gold, is it not?"

GOLDEN IDOLB. 213

taking up with some litde difficulty a deity about
two feet high. ** Gold, my dear fellow, do you think
gold is so plentiful in China that they have golden
gods in a remote temple like this, where anyone might
cany them off ?*' " It's precious heavy then,'* he said,
^ if it is not gold, let us smash him and see ;"* and down
went the divinity, with a heavy thud on the marble
floor, but no sign of a smash in him. ^ I'm sure it

is gold,** said S . ** Bring it home then,** said I,

laughing. ^^ I wish I had that lazy syce here,** was his
rejoinder, as he stood looking at his idol, ^ I should
make him carry it** So we left it there, but when
the burning came it was found, or another like it^
and was brought home, and it made a fortune. I feel
sure that multitudes of such things were thrown
away and burnt, because it was incredible that th^
could be made of gold, and yet they were. On
another shrine the incense-burners were of ircm,
plated with gold ; on another, of rich enamel of eveiy
colour in the rainbow, with gilded mounting, while
every shrine was draped and curtained with yellow
satin, richly embroidered.

Proceeding along the terrace we arrived at a sum-
meivhouse embosomed in shade, — and by a summer*
house I don*t mean a small octagonal or hexagonal
building, with a deal table and some benches for the
convenience of a picnic party, distempered walls,
rectangular windows (such as Ruskin loves), and a
slate root Nor do I mean a bower covered with
moss, and roses and jessamine trained over it, and

214 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

thatched with reeds or heather. No, I mean a
house with ten or twenty rooms in it, sleeping rooms
and sitting rooms, all fully furnished and " fit for
the immediate reception of a nobleman's or gentle-
man's fiimily ;" yes, or of an emperor, — ^for to some
one of these cool retreats we are told that Hein
Fung loved to retire and pass his days with one or
more of the reigning favourites.

Let us enter. The door is fiastened inside, never
mind, a vigorous kick sends it flying open firom
the centre, and we stand in a marble courtyard.
Two small rooms, one on each side, where the
wooden sword denotes the eunuch's dwelling ; three
steps of marble opposite bring us to another door.

" Your turn now, S ;" and in it goes, for S

has a strong leg. Another marble courtyard, larger
than the first, and steps ascending, for it is built
on the face of a hill, and the house is terraced;
two long buildings at each side containing three
rooms each, those at the ends opening off the
centre one, which is a sitting-room furnished just
like the palace, dark or black carved wood and
crimson or yellow embroidered satin, nicknacks and
ornaments the same. What would Wardour Street
say if it were here? Why the furniture of this
one smnmer-house would sell, at home, for a
prince's ransouL One larger building fi*onts the en-
trance of the courtyard ; bang goes the door, in we
go. Much larger rooms, three of them on the same
plan, a splendid French clock in gold enamel, the

CHINESE 8UMMEB.HOU8E. 215

furniture is more gorgeous, the ornaments more
rare, and in a carved cupboard in the wall there
are boxes of the imperial yellow china, each cup
wrapped in soft paper and in a compartment by
itself, so precious is it deemed. Some, of the finest
*' cracle,** so minute that you must get a good
light to see it in. Some with the five-clawed dragon
finely worked in it, not visible when you look
directly at it Some curious old grey ** cracle,** too ;
imperial sceptres in green and white gadestone;
two tall jars in porcelain, painted in the richest
colours, representing a series of hunting scenes in
which the tiger and stag are pursued.

Tablets adorn the waUs, one or two yards square, in
which sylvan scenes of landscape or of hunting are
represented, in which the figures, trees, water, beasts^
Ac, are made of gadestone, green and white, and of
other coloured stones. Sleeping-rooms to the right
and left, satin embroidered hangings, and the raised
bed-place universal in China, which doubtless the
imperial person has e*er now pressed. A garden
adorns the centre of the courtyard; some of the
shrubs are still in flower. Trees ftom outside over^
hang it all, while a stream, cool as the rock it springs
fi!om, flows through it, caught here and there in
deep, pure white marble basins. To the right and
left passages leading to other buildings of similar
stamp, and some storerooms, one filled by several
gilded chairs of state, another with large enamels,
a third with quaint masks and lanterns for an even*

216 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

ing entertainment; but if I was to write a whole
book on the subject I could not describe it, nor could
you even then imagine it

Reluctantly we descended again from the terrace
and &jry palace, and wandered along the shores of
a lake ; but " time (in our case) was short and art
was long." Here, lying at the bottom near the
shore, were porcelain jars and vases which had been
thrown there by some overloaded plunderer, to be
brought away at some more convenient time ; and
standing above his middle in water, is an unfortu-
nate coolie, bleeding from a wound in his chest,
which he has received who can tell how, but no
signs that we can make will induce him to come on
shore. As we near the palace again, we meet large
parties of Chinese, plundering their own Emperor;
we examine their baskets and bundles, — china vases,
felt, and coarse wadded clothing, are all that we can
find ; they have not got into the best buildings ; they
are afraid of us, or else they have gone in for the
things which will be most useful to themselves, or
are least likely to be recognized, in which case, off
go their heads at once.

But we must get back to Pekin for this time ; we
shall see the palace more than once perhaps again.

PKEPARATIONS FOR THE ASSAULT. 217

CHAPTER Xm.

Preparations for an Assault — Plan of our PoriUon— Colonel Ifann's
anxiety to make a Breach— John Chinaman gives in — Chinese
Treachery— Retom of Messrs. Parkes and Loch—** The wild Jus-
tice of Revenge" — Bonlby^a public Loss — C*hinese Perfidy — Kind-
ness of Russian Embassy — ^The Russian Burial-ground— Funeral of
Messrs. AnderMm, De Norman, Boulby, and Private Phipps — Cruel
Treachery of the Emperor — Burning of the Imperiid Palace —
Burning of Temple — Antiquity of Chinese Art— A Residence with
its Temples— Gardens — Curios— Halt of Tro(^»— More Burning —
Reflections — Return to Pekin — ^A necessary Sacrifice— The days of
the Present Dynasty nnmbersd— Success of the American Mission.

No time was lost by the Allies in making prepara-
tions for an assault npon Pekin^ should it be neces-
sary to do so in onler to get possession of the gate
which they had demanded. Messengers passed to
and &o between the Chinese authorities and our
chiefe, which I forbear to reprint^ as they have long
ago been made public, and are not of sufficient in-
terest to be reproduced here ; suffice it to say, that
they exhibited upon the one hand firmness, dignity,
and truth ; and upon the other, every low art which
base cunning and fidsehood could bring to bear.
But all to no purpose, Lord Elgin knew them tho-
roughly, nor could they again deceive him.
To the left fit>nt of our then position before Pekin

218 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

lay a large open plain, of uneven sur&ce, it had been
used as a parade-ground for the Tartar anny, it is
about a mile-and-a-half square ; on the right, as you
fece the city, this plain is bounded by the broad road
and suburb leading to the north gate of the Tartar
city ; on the front, by the city wall ; on the rear, by
the great Llama temple and its extensive grounds
and buildings ; and on the left, by the suburb and
broad road leading to the Anting gate ; this gate the
allies had determined to make their own.

Beyond that again, to the left of this last-named
suburb, stood the magnificent Temple of the Earth.
Its various buildings (for one temple in China often
includes a large number of separate edifices) were
enclosed by a brick wall about eighteen feet high, and
covered a space more than a quarter of a mile square ;
up to this temple the siege guns were at once brought,
and as the wall approached the city to within about
three hundred yards and formed an excellent mask
for our battery, no more fitting place could have been
chosen fix)m which to breach the fer-&med wall of
Pekin, The sappers went to work under Colonel
Mann, a most energetic and painstaking officer ; so
anxious was he, indeed, to make the breach that a
fexjetious young subaltern in the Sappers declared
one morning, " that he had been seen the night be-
fore under the very wall, sitting on a barrel of gun-
powder, and grubbing at the wall with his naib ; '*
but in a few days the battery was finished, and on
Friday the 12th a proclamation was issued by us

8URR£KD£B OK THE GATE. 216

threatening to bombard the town if the Anting g^te
was not given up witfiin twentj-four hoars.

It was fietted^ however, that the wall was not to be
breached; every preparation had been made, the
Second Division under Sir R Napier was told off
for the assault, while the First Divisicm was to be
under arms in reserve, when at the last moment, as
usual, when he finds himself driven to the wall, J(^
Chinaman gave in ; the gate was placed in our hands,
and our troops had the honour of planting their
colours upon its summit For some days no one was
permitted to enter the city, or even the gate, without
a pass from the Deputy- Adjutant-General, so that I
shall take this opportunity, as we cannot yet get
into Pekin, to mention some other matters which
are yet to be spoken of.

And first, as to the prisoners. Great was the
anxiety felt by every one on their behalf; to many
of us they were personal firiends. Mr. H. Parkes
had secured the good will of all by the frank urbanity
of his manners, although there was a strong opinion
in the army that he had been too confiding, and too
much disposed to yield to the Chinese Government,
and that therefore his sufferings were to a certain
extent brought on through his own mistake, while
personally the deepest sympathy was felt for him.
The old proverb, " Deceive me once it is your fiiult,
deceive me twice it is mine,** ought to have been
borne in mind more than it appears to have been.
For, not to speak of the one-hundred*«nd-one tricks

220 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

that have been played upon us by the Government
of China, of former date, the falsehood of their deal-
ings at Tien-Tsin, as previously related, was so pal-
pable, that every one in the army felt that there was
a degree of blame to be attached to those who placed
themselves, or anycme else, in the power of men so
fidse and treacherous. I record this as the impresr
sion in the army ; how &r it was justified I cannot
decide.

Eweileang and Hang Foo had solemnly assured
Messrs. Wade and Parkes, on September 1st, that
they had full power to treat with us, all our demands
were to be complied with ; but when it came to the
point, and the production of their credentials was
demanded on the 6th, their fidsehood was made evi-
dent Had they been able to carry on the deception
so far as to have induced us to do as they desired,
and Lord Elgin had gone up to Pekin with a small
escort and no guns, it might have been that, instead
of the prisoners whom they did take at Changkea-
whan, they would have captured the Ambassador ;
for that the Government intended treachery when
they stipulated that the Allies were to leave their
guns behind them, ^^ as the minds of the people would
be disturbed at Pekin if guns were brought there,'*
there cannot now be the smallest shade of doubt
And thus their subsequent conduct has proved to us
what an escape the interests of the Allies had, as who
can tell what the results would have been had the
Plenipotentiaries Mien into any well-executed snare.

RETURN OF PARKES AKD LOCH. 221

For Mr. Loch's safety all who knew him felt most
painM anxiety. Prayers were oflfered up at our
services on behalf of all, and I am sore that our con-
gregations most heartily joined in their petitions.
Soon after our arriyal at Pekin oar fears as to Messrs.
Parkes and Loch were put an end to by their arrival
at head-quarters, and many a hearty shake of the
hand it was their lot to feeL Their statements as to
their sufferings are so interesting that they are here
subjomed.

Of the fete of the other prisoners we were still in
ignorance, and deep was the feeling of anxiety on
their behalf; but on the 12th nine of Fane's sowars
were sent back, and they informed us of the sad fete
of De Norman and Anderson, nor had we much hope
after this for Boulby and Brabazon. The sowars can
tell best their own tale.

EVIDENCE OP 80WALLA SING, DUFFADAR.
FirU TVtM^ Fnw^i Harm.

•* When Messrs. Parkes and Loch left us to go to
Sankolinsin, the Chinese CommandeMu-Chief, there
remained in our party Mr. Boulby, Lieutenant
Anderson, Captain Brabazon, Mr. De Norman, one
man of the King's Dragoon Guards, one man of
1st Sikh Irregular Cavahry, and our own party of
seventeen men. We stood waiting for half-an-hour,
when lieutenant Anderson asked to be taken where

222 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

the other gentlemen were gone. He was told to
remain till they came back. After another half-hour
the Chinese army assembled in large numbers and
surrounded us, made us get off our horses, and
(leading them) follow them. Then about 10,000
men accompanied us to Tungchow, and made us
rest for a quarter of an hour and give up our arms.
They then made us remount and paraded us through
the whole of the army, and then took us on the road
to Pekin and rested that night in a Joss-house.

^^ In the morning they again mounted us on our
horses and took us to Pekin. In Pekin they made us
dismount and fed us, they then took us through the
city to a place about two miles beyond it, then they
made us dismount and gave us tents. The English
officers, and natives separate. Then they took us
away one by one and bound us, lying on the stomach,
with hands and feet behind our backs. They kept
us iir this position for three days, and gave us food
only three times^ and then but a mouthful at a time ;
they then threw us, bound as we were, into carta,
and took us, as I should think, about thirty miles.
The mules were trotting and galloping all night
We arrived in the morning at a Fort, and were there
put into prison, confined in a cage, and loaded with
chains. At that time we were seven in all. Lieute-
nant Anderson, Mr. De Norman, one duffiular, and
four sowars. I know nothing of the others, they
were taken further on. We were kept in this place
three days so tightly bound, we could not move.

SOWAB'S 8T0RT. 223

The sowars bound with one cord, the Englishmen
with two.

** The first day we got nothing to eat, after that
they gave us a little as before. After the first day
at the second place Lieutenant Anderson became
delirious, and remained so with a few lucid intervals
until his death, which occurred on the ninth day of
his imprisonment Two days before his death his
nails and fingers burst finom the tightness of the cord,
and mortification set in, and the bones of his wrists
were exposed. Whilst he was alive worms were
generated in his wounds, and crawled over and eat
into his body. They left the body by us three days
and then took it away. Five days aft^r Lieutenant
Anderson's death a sowar. Bam Chun, died in the
same state. Three days afl;erwards Mr. De Norman
died.

** On the evening of the day of Lieutenant Ander*
son's decease the cords were taken off our hands,
and fium that time we were better treated ; our feet
were unbound two days afl;er this, and kept so until
our release yesterday evening. When Lieutenant
Anderson and our comrades called on us to help
them by biting their cords (the only way we could
assist them), the Chinamen kicked us away. When
we arrived at the joss-house between Tungchow
and Pekin, Captain Brabazon and a Frenchman went
back, and Lieutenant Anderson told us they were
going to the Commander-in-Chief to give information
and obtain oar release.**

224 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

EVIDENCE OP MAHOMED KHAN,
Fourth TVoqp, Fane's Hone,

" Taken prisoner by the Chinese, 18th September,
1860. When we got to the camp of the Chinese
near Changkeawhan, we heard the firing commence.
Messrs. Parkes and Loch left ns, as also one sowar
of Major Probyn's Horse. Mr. Anderson waited for
about half-an-honr, and then wanted to go in search
of the two gentlemen, but he was stopped by the
Chinese. We were eventually taken outside Tung-
chow and our arms taken away from us. We then
remounted, and went over the stone bridge of the
canal, along the paved road to a joi^house, about a
mile or two miles on this side. The next day Cap-
tain Brabazon and a Frenchman left us, and we
were taken throi^h Pekin to a garden on the other
side. This place was near a lake, and temples round
about it We were then put into tents, six men in
each; Mr. Anderson told oflP the number to each
tent This was about two o'clock in the day.

" About half-an-hour after our arrival Mr. De Nor-
man was taken out under the pretence of having his
fietce and hands washed. He was immediately seized,
thrown on the ground, and his hands and feet tied
together behind. Mr. Anderson was then taken out
and tied up in the same manner, then Mr. Boulby, then
the Frenchman, and then the sowar. After we had
all been tied, they put water on our cords to tighten

CRUELTIES TO THE PRIS0KEB8. 225

them^ they then lifted ns ap and took us into a
courtyard^ where we remained in the open air for
three days exposed to the sun and cold. Mr. An-
derson became delirious the second day from the
effects of the son and want of water and food ; we
had nothing to eat all that time, but at last they
gave us two square mites of bread and a little water.
In the daytime the place was left open, and hun-
dreds of people came to stare at us, and many men
of rank among them.

^ At night a soldier was placed on guard over each
of us. If we spoke a word or asked for water, we
were beaten and stamped upon. They kicked us
about the head with their boots, and if we asked for
anything to eat they crammed dirt down our throats.
At the end of the third day irons were put on our
necks, wrists, and ankles, and about three o'clock
of the fourth day we were taken away in carts. I
never saw Lieutenant Anderson again. In our two
carts there were eight of us, inz. three Frenchmen,
four Sikhs, and myself; one Frenchman died on the
road, he was wounded by a sword-cut on the breast
We were aft;erwards taken away towards the hills
that night, and stopped to eat and rest, and then
travelled on all the next day. We stopped again
at night, and late the next day arrived at a walled
town, with a lai^ white fort outside of it The
place was surrounded on three sides by high hills ;
we were taken into the jail outside the town.

^ A Frenchman died after we had been in jail eight

Q

226 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

or nine days, and sowar Iren Singh three or four
days after that They both died from maggots eat-
ing into their flesh, from which mortification ensued^
The Mandarin in charge of the jail took off our irons
about ten days ago. The Chinese prisoners were
very kind to us, cleaned and washed our wounds,
and gave us what they had to eat

(Signed) " W. Fane, Captain,

** dm. Fane't Horse.
"PBmr,

" October 13, 1860."

DEPOSITIONS OF BUGHEL SING, SOWAR, First Tncp, Fan^s
Horse; also of KAN SINGE, SOWAR, Third TVoop.

^^ The first day we stopped in a joss-house on the
side of the road to Pekin. We tied our horses up
and went inside. The Chinese then took them away
but brought them back again in the morning, and we
again mounted. Then two gentlemen. Captain Brsr
bazon, R. A., and a French oflBcer, left our party. We
went through Pekin to the other side about half a
koss and pulled up at a serai, from here one of the
Chinamen went away to ask if we should dismount
there, on his return we were taken to some tents.
This place had barracks inside, and we went through
a large doorway.

^* We had been there an hour-and-a-half^ when
we were ordered out, one by one, to wash, our hands
and fiu^es. They took out the gentlemen first,
threw them down, and &8tened their hands behind

CRUELTIES TO THE PRI80NEB8. 227

them. Afterwards we were taken out They then
made ns kneel down in the middle of the yard, tied
OUT hands and feet behind, and threw ns over on onr
hands on the ground. From this position if we at-
tempted to rest on onr right or left side, they kicked
and beat ns. We remained in this position all night,
during which time they poured water on our bonds
to tighten them. Mr. De Norman spoke to one of
the Chinese officers during the night, and told him
that we came to treat and not to fight, and they
then gave us a little water and rice. The Hindoos
would not eat it until Mr. Anderson persuaded them,
when some of us ate.

^The next day a white-button Mandarin came
to see us. He had many orderlies with him, and
took down in writing some answers to questions
put by him to Mr. De Norman. About two hours
after he was gone we were loaded with irons. We
got nothing more to eat or drink, and remained
in this way for three days. Lieutenant Anderson's
hands were swollen to three times their proper size
and turned as black as ink. The whole weight of
his body, chains, and all were thrown on his hands.
They looked ready to burst As long as he was
sensible he encouraged us and rebuked us for calling
out When he was insensible he constantly called
out on Fane and many others. He became delirious
when the chains were put on. On the afternoon of
the third day they took four of us (Bughil Singh,
War Singh, Sonah Sinp, and Mr. Boulby) away in

Q 2

228 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

carts, travelled all that night, gave us no food or
water, and beat us when we asked for any. Mr.
Boulby's hands were not so much swollen. He spoke
no Hindustani, so we could not understand him.

" About ten a.m. the next day we arrived at a Fort
with a few buildings near it. There was no town.
Another cart was with us. There were in it DuflEsi-
dar Mahomed Khan, a French officer very tall and
stout with a brown beard, and a dragoon, whose
name was Phipps. We were taken into the forts,
and for three days were out in the open air in the
cold. They then pulled us into a kitchen and kept
us there eight days. They never allowed us to stir
for three or four days. Mr. Boulby died the second
day after we arrived. He died fix)m maggots form-
ing in his wrists. He was dressed in a kind of grey
check. His body remained beside us nearly three
days, and was then tied to a kind of iron beam and
thrown over the walL

" The next day the Frenchman died, he was
wounded slightly on the head and shoulder, appa*
rently by a sword. Maggots got into his ears, nose,
and mouth, and he became insensible. He had on a
black coat, red trousers with black stripes. This officer
was tall and stout Two days after this Sowahir Sing,
1st Sikh Irregular Cavalry, died ; his hands burst from
the rope wounds ; maggots got into the wounds and
he died. Four days afterwards Phipps died ; for ten
days he encouraged us in every way he could, till
one day his hands became swollen and maggots were

MB. PARKES*S NABRATIVE. 229

generated the next One maggot increased a thoa-
sandfold in a day. Mahomed Rux^ DoffiBular, died ten
days ago. He remained very well till the time of
his death, and abused the Chinese for bringing him
pig to eat Maggots formed on him four days before
his death, and his hands were completely eaten away.
I should have died had my irons not been taken off.
The Chinaman who brought us here was very kind.
When he was present he dressed our wounds and
gaye us what we wanted ; when he was absent, we
got nothing.

(Certified) "W. Fane, Captam,

^ Cam. Famiii HwmT

MR. PARKES'S NARRATIVE.

^* We had just passed Changkeawhan, and were
hoping to be clear in ton minutes of the Chinese
lines, when a fire of Chinese artillery opened along
their fix>nt, and showed that the engagement had
begun. As soon as we were observed a number of
Tartar horse moved into the road to intercept us,
and, halting the party, I informed the officer whom
we were, and asked him to aUow us to pass on. He
desired us not to proceed until orders arrived from
a superior officer close at hand, upon which I sug-
gested that time might be saved if I visited that
officer myselC He assented, and I therefi>re nxle
towards the spot, accompanied by Mr. Loch and
one sowar, carrying a white flag. The remainder

230 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

of the party, namely, Captain Brabazon, Lieutenant
Anderson, Messrs. De Noiinan and Bonlby, one
dragoon, and, I believe, eighteen sowars, remained in
the road, and were also provided with a white flag.
^' On passing a field of tall cane, which hid ns from
onr party, we suddenly came upon a body of in-
fentry, who were with difficulty prevented fix>m fir-
ing upon us, and we were directed to a mounted
Mandarin, evidently one of rank, and wearing a red
button, who was standing on the opposite side of
the canal referred to in the early part of this report,
and near to the spot where one of the bridges had
been removed. The crowd of soldiers called on us
to dismount and cross the canal in a boat I tried
to avoid this, but as the Mandarin referred to would
not speak to me unless I did so, and seeing that
we were surrounded by rude and excited soldiers,
who clearly looked upon us as their prisoners, I
advised Mr. Loch and the sowar to comply. By
this time another Mandarm had ridden up to the
former one, and hearing, as he approached, the cry
raised of " The Prince ! the Prince ! " I inquired bom
an officer what Prince it was. He told me Prince
Sang (Sangkolinsen), and I therefore hoped that the
use which this personage had himself made in the
late hostilities of flags of truce would induce him to
respect the one under which we were now acting.
We therefore dismounted, in order to cross to him,
and directly we did so the soldiers fell upon us, tore
ofif several of the things we had on, dragged us

MB. PABK£S*S NARRATIYE. 231

acrosB the canal, and hurled ua prostrate on the
ground before the Prince.

** The moment the Prince gave me an opportunity
of speaking to him, which he did by asking me my
name, I at once clearly informed him who I was, and
of the whole character of my mission to Tungchow,
adding that I was returning to my ambassador when
I was stopped by his troops.

^ I was proceeding with a remonstrance against the
treatment I was receiving, when the Prince inters
rupted me by saying, * Why did you not agree yes-
terday to settle the audience question ? '

^* Because I was not empowered to do so,' I
replied

" The Prince then continued, in a very forbidding
tone, * Listen I You can talk reason; you have
gained two victories to our one. Twice you have
dared to take the Peiho forts ; why does not that
content you ? And now you presume to give out'
(the Prince here aUuded to the proclamation of the
Commander-in-Chier) Uhat you will attack any
force that stops your march on Tungchow. I am
now doing that You say that you do not direct
these military movements, but I know your name,
and that you instigate all the evil that your people
commit You have also used bold language in the
presence of the Prince of I, and it is time that
foreigners should be taught respect for Chinese nobles
and ministers.'

^I endeavoured to explain the mistakes of the

232 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

Prince ; told him distinctly what my functions were ;
that I had come to Tungchow by express agreement
with the Imperial Conmiissioners, and solely in the
interest of peace, and I again begged him to show
the same respect to an English flag of truce that wc
had always paid to those so repeatedly sent in by
the Chinese.

" The Prince, however, simply laughed at all this,
and going towards a house that was close by directed
the soldiers to bring me after him.

^^ On arriving at the house, I was again thrown on
my knees before him, and the Prince asked me if I
would write for him.

" Having asked what it was that he wished me to
write, he said, * Write to your people, and tell them
to stop the attack.'

" * It would be useless for me to do so,* I replied,
^ as I cannot control or influence military movements
in any way. I will not deceive your Highness by
leading you to suppose that anything I might write
would have such an effect*

" * I see you continue obstinate,* he said, * and that
you will be of no use to me.*

" I then heard him give directions to take Mr. Loch,
the sowar, and myself to the Prince of I, but to con-
duct the escort into Changkeawhan. While the neces-
sary preparations were being made, two high oflBcers
in his suite, wearing red buttons, took me aside into
a tent, and told me to sit down and talk with them.
*Take our advice,' they said, *and don't think of

MB. PARKES'S NARRATIVE. 233

denying that you can do this or that, or yon will get
into trouble/

^ I again explained to them who I was, and how
far my powers extended ; but they replied that they
did not believe me.

^ Having expressed surprise at the engagement
then going on, and inquired how it had commenced,
they observed, * It does not matter how it commenced ;
perhaps you began it, perhaps we did : but you have
at last gone too far, and will now get your deserts/

" * But we have not gone too far,' I replied * It
has been agreed between our ambassadors and your
conmiissioners that we are to occupy ground up to
five le south of Changkcawhan/

***0h, we are not particular to a few fe,' said
the officers. ^It would have been quite the same
if you had come within five, ten, or twenty fc of our
army. You have gone too &r, we tell you.'

^ The cannonading now became heavier, and the
two officers had to follow Prince Sang, who rode
away to the front Mr. Loch, the sowar, and myself
were ordered to get into an open cart of the roughest
description, and two French soldiers, whom we had
not before seen, were put in with us. A few
moments before I had observed a French officer,
whom I knew to be the Commissariat Intendant,
being led up to the house ; he had evidently been
ill-used, but I could not see to what extent, nor had
I any opportunity of speaking with him.*"

234 HOW WE OCT TO PEKm.

Imprisonment in Pekin.

" It was about half-past two o'clock when we were
put into the cart, and the son was setting as we
reached the Chaon-yang, or eastern gate of the city.
The streets were crowded with people, and our
captors made the best use of us they could to give
their return the character of a triumph. We con-
tinued to be driven through street after street, passing
through the eastern and southern, and into the
western quarter of the city, until we entered, at about
eight P.M., a large court, and I saw with a shudder
that we were in the hands of the Board of Punish-
ments.

^^ After we had been kept waiting in a dense crowd
for half an hour longer, I was taken from the cart and
carried before a tribunal composed of examiners of
small rank, who made me kneel, and after treating
me in a very tyrannical manner, and questioning me
on a few unimportant points, they loaded me with
chains, and gave me over to a number of ruffianly-
looking gaolers. These men conducted me through
several long courts, and, happening to halt for some
purpose, I knew by the clank of chains that another
prisoner was approaching. It proved to be Mr. Loch ;
but they would not allow us to converse, and hastily
sent us away in different directions. At last we
nUnn] l)efore a building which I could see was a
^mmmi prison, and as the massive door opened and

MB. PARKE&TB NABRATXYE. 235

dosed on me, I found myself in a throng of seventy
or ei^ty wild-looking prisoners, most of them offen-
siye in the extreme, as is usual in Chinese jails, fix>m
disease and dirt, and who were naturally anxious to
gaze on the new comer.

^ I was again carefully examined and searched by
the jailers, who also saw that my chains were properly
secured, and bound my arms with fresh cords, not so
ti^tly, howeyer, as to prevent circulation, or to
occasion serious inconvenience* At the same time,
however, they removed, to my intense relief^ the cords
from my wrists, which being very tightly tied had
caused my hands to swell to twice their proper size,
and wero now giving me great pain. They then laid
me on the raised boarding on which the prisoners
sleep, and made me &st by another large chain to a
beam overhead. The chains consisted of one long
and heavy one stretching from the neck to the feet,
to which the hands were fiistened by two cross chains
and handcuflfa, and the feet in a similar manner.

^ Being exhausted with &tigue and want of food^
which I had not tasted for upwards of twenty-four
hours, I fell asleep, but was soon made sensible of
my position by being called up, and again carried
before the same board of inquisitors. It was then
about midni^t, but the hour did not prevent the
collection of a large crowd, composed, however, in
this instance, of police-runners, jailers, lictors, and
the other numerous myrmidons of Chinese law. The
Mandarins, as I was placed kneeling in my chains

236 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

before them, warned me that they would force the
truth fix)m me if I did not give it willingly, and, in
proof of their earnestness, they ordered four torturers
to seize me, even before they began to put their
questions, by the ears, and the hair of the head and
fiM5e. They first asked me if I were a Chinese. I
told them they had only to look at my face and hair
to see that I was not Their next questions related
to my age, length of residence in China, how and
where I had been employed, &c They then pro-
ceeded as follows : —

** Inquisitors. — State the name of your head man.

" Answer. — ^Which one do you mean — ^the ambas-
sador, general, or admiral?

" Inquisitors (angrily). — ^You have no such fimo-
tionaries. Don't presume to use such titles.

" Here the torturers suited their action to the tone
of the Mandarins, by pulling simultaneously at my
hair, ears, &c.

" Inquisitors. — ^Now give the name of your head
man*

« Answer. — ^Which one ?

** Inquisitors. — ^The head of your soldiers.

"Answer (in English). — ^Lieutenant^jeneral Sir
Hope Grant

" Inquisitors. — ^What ?

"Answer (in English). — ^Lieutenant-General Sir
Hope Grant

" Inquisitors. — Say something that we can under^
stand.

MB. PARK£S*S NARBATIYE. 237

** Answer. — ^I am obliged to use the English terms,
as you will not let me give you these in Chinese.

** They attempted to write down, in Chinese sounds,
* Lieutenant-Greneral Sir Hope Grant,* but not suc-
ceeding, they asked the name of another head man«

" Answer (in English). — Ambassador Extraordi-
nary the Earl of Elgin.

^* Finding it equally impossible to write this down
in Chinese, or to get on with the examination, they
told me I might revert to Chinese names and titles,
and I then gave them those of the Ambassador and
the Commanders-m-Chief. • ♦ ♦ • ♦

^* They then proceeded to examine me in the same
strain as to the number of our cavalry and artillery,
ships, steamers, horses, Chinese coolies, &c^ and, in
particular, of the range of our field and siege guns,
which I gave them at three miles and upwards, to-
gether with other particulars of their destructive
properties. Hearing that the horses of the force came
from India, they questioned me as to the resources
of that countr}% and were much displeased with my
statement that it was within twenty days' sail of
China, and had an army of upwards of 300,000 men,
and a population of more than 100,000,000. They
also equally disapproved of my estimate of the popu-
lation of Great Britain, which I stated at alx)ut
30,000,000. But the remark which probably gave
them most displeasure, and caused me some pain at
the hands of the torturers, was the use, on my part,
of a term for her Miyesty denoting equality of rank

238 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

with the Emperor. They had inquired after our
* Prince/ to which I had replied, by stating that we
had many princes, both in England and India, but
that they were all nnder one sovereign, as in the
case of the empire of Ohina.

" * What do you mean by using such language,'
they said, * you have yourself shown that you have
been long in China, that you can speak our language
and read our books, and you must know, therefore,
that there is but one Emperor who rules over all
lands. It is your duty to communicate your supe-
rior knowledge on this subject to your countrymen,
instead of encouraging them in their extravagant
ideas.*

" They then insisted that I had often been in Pe-
kin ; that I had confederates here, and that they would
force me to reveal their names. I firmly denied all
this, and told them that I knew but three persons in
Pekin.

" Inquisitors. — ^Name them.

"Answer. — ^The two Imperial Commissioners —
Prince of I and Muhyin, and the Assistant-Commis-
sioner Hangki.

" Towards the close of the examination, throughout
which I was compelled to remain kneeling on the
stone floor, I obtained their permission to make a
statement on my own account I then told them
why I and the other gentlemen of my party had
come to Tungchow ; that we were all employed in
the cause of peace, and not of war ; but, although

MB. PABK£8*8 NARRATIVE. 239

acting under a flag of trace, and admitted to inter-
views with the Imperial Commissioners^ we had been
seized and were now being treated, not even as pri-
soners of war, but as common felons, and as offenders
against Chinese law. I was urging that this great,
and to me unacconntable, mistake should not be pei^
sisted in, when they interrapted me by saying,
* That is your account, but we have another story.
Besides, iS^ as you state, you are a civilian, and have
nothing to do with soldiers or their movements, why
are you always seen with the advance ? ' To this
I answered, that we always kept an interpreter in
the front to be ready to receive overtures or com-
munications from the Chinese authorities, and to look
after the interest of the people. The examination
ended, I was ordered back to prison. ♦ ♦ •

^ But it was only fix>m the prisoners that I obtained
sympathy or a hearing. Many of these unfortunate
men were glad, when so permitted, to come round
me to listen to my story, or any description that I
would give them of foreign countries and usages.
Instead of following the example set them by their
authorities, and treating me with abuse or ridicule,
they were seldom disrespectful, addressed me by my
titie, and often avoided putting me to inconvenience
when it was in their power to do so. Most of them
were men of the lowest dass and the gravest order
of offenders, as murderers, burglars, &c Those who
had no means of their own were reduced by prison
filth and prison diet to a shocking state of emaciati<»

240 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

and diseaae, but those who conld afford to fee the
jailers, and purchase such things as they wanted,
lived in comparative fullness and comfort

" The Mandarins of the board having ordered that
I should be supplied with food that I could eat, my
maintenance, which cost, as I was told^ 1^. a day,
was carried to the charge of the man who held this
position, but instead of taking a dislike to me on
account of the increased expense which I occasioned
him, he was one of the foremost in showing me
kindness or consideration. My meals consisted of
two meals a day of boiled rice, or a kind of macca-
roni seasoned with a very sparing allowance of meat
or vegetables ; also cakes or the bread of the country,
and a little tea and tobacco.

" In the prison-roll which was hung up on the wall,
I found myself returned as " a rebel," and that I
was one out of five, out of a total of seventy-three,
who were ordered to wear the heaviest chains.

" On the 22nd September I was removed fix)m the
common prison to a separate ward about eight feet
square, on the opposite side of the court; the four
jailers appointed to watch me crossing at the same
time, and putting up in the same little room. This
was scarcely done when I receive a visit from the
inspector of the prison, who, instead of making me
kneel before him, as he had done on previous visits,
desired me to be seated, and introduced another
Mandarin of small rank as his relie£**

MR. PARKES'S NARRATIVE. 241

Interview with Haxq-ki.

•* Shortly after they had gone, the head jailer
asked me if I knew a Mandarin named Ilang-ki.
* Ho would like to see you,* he said, * but cannot come
into the pirison on account of the stench, and I do
not see how you can be allowed to go out to him/
I told the jailer to act as he pleased, and a few
minutes afterwards Hang-ki entered ; I have by mc
the following note of our conversation, which I suc-
ceeded in making shortly after he had left me."

[The conversation here described is interesting,
but does not contain any point of special unpor-
tance.]

" At about two P-M., 26th September, received a
visit from Ilang-ki, attended by two prison inspectors,
Gan and Choo Laou-yays. I first spoke al)out being
put in the same prison with Loch ; a small request,
and easily granted if they wished to show us any
humanitw

** Ilang-ki followed with a long speech. * Grand
councils had l>een held,' he said, * on the subject of
foreign relations. It was considered that the hos-
tilities of the allies are very different on this to
all previous occasions, as by advancing on Pekin
they are attacking the Emperor himself, and not, as
heretofore, the Emperor's viceroys. The Emperor is
therefore on his defence, and must fight for his

R

242 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

throne and dynasty. He has therefore determined
to retire to the Hunting Palace at Jehol, in Tartary,
and to call in the aid of the forty-eight Mongol
Princes, each of whom can furnish, probably, 20,000
men. But, supposing that all is lost — that is, Pekin
taken — and the Imperial forces retreat, fighting be-
yond the fix)ntier, the dismemberment of the Empire
will follow, and all trade will be at an end. Is this
the course that must be adopted or not ? The ma-
jority of Princes and Ministers are for it The Prince
of Ching, Prince of I, Sankolinsin, and others say
that peace cannot be made with the allies, because
they always make negotiations an opportunity for
putting in fresh demands ; also that commercial rela-
tions are far more costly than profitable to China^
for, although some 4,000,000 of taels are received
fix)m foreigners annually as duties, the claims for in-
demnities—first, 21,000,000 dollars in 1842, then
6,000,000 taels in 1858, and now 10,000,000 taels
more — ^almost equal the amount that has reached the
Imperial Treasury fix)m the same source during the
above period. The personages just named, together
with a large majority of then* advisers, urge war.
The Prince of Kung, the brother of the Emperor,
who has now the direction of the foreign question,
would be glad to see some other course, but, unless I
point one out, no alternative presents itselfl K I
will not do this, and affidrs continue to go wrong, I
shall make myself a mark for the public fiuy, which
cannot be restrained at a moment of extremity.* "

MR. PARKES'S NARRATIVE. 243

[After some farther conversation, in which Mr.
Parkt^ suggested that deputies should be sent to
open negotiations.]

" * It is of no use/ said Hang-ki, * for me to return
to the Prince of Kung with a set speech of this kind.
Business presses, and I doubt whether I shall l>e
able to see you again. Have you nothing eLse to
say ? Do you still refuse to suggest a plan ? * Here
the Prison-Inspector, Gan-Laou-yays, interposed the
remark that I ought to write a letter. * Yes,* said
Hang-ki, * write to your Ambassador or to Mr. Wade,
engaging that the Mandarin who takes the letter
shall be well treated, and that there shall be a ces-
sation of hostilities.

" I replied that it was quite out of my power to
say anything about the discontinuance of hostilities,
and that were I to make such a proposal it would
be wholly useless, as it would have no effect upon
the proceedings of the English Ambassador. * I have
suggested a plan,* I added, * namely, that you should
send out your deputies, and return Mr. Loch and
myself with them, in which case we would be
answerable for their safety, and they could make
any representations or overtures that you might
desire. I cannot undertake to do more. As to
your menace, I know that I am in danger as long
as I am in your hands, becaase it is no uncommon
thing for the Chinese to deal cruelly with their
prisoners, or even to take their lives. But while I
should prepare for the worst, I know also that my

R 2

244 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

fete will be determined, not by your will, but by
that of God. On the other hand, it is for you to
bear in mind that, although you would do the allied
force but little injury by killing the few prisoners
who have fellen into your hands, you would by such
an act, bring down upon yourselves a terrible ven-
geance/ I also reminded Hang-ki of the different
treatment which he received when detained as a
prisoner by the allies at Canton in 1858 ; and I
again begged that, in view of whatever might hap-
pen to us, Mr. Loch and myself might at least have
the satisfex^tion of being put into the same prison..

*^ Hang-ki replied that his imprisonment and mine
were not parallel cases, that he could not say
whether Mr. Loch and myself could be allowed to
be together, and that he felt he was returning to the
Prince of Kung without having anything to tell
him. * You will be in no danger, however,' he added,
* during the next two or three days.' "

Confinement in a Temple.

" Having been put into separate vehicles, we were
conveyed, in the charge of Hang-ki and a strong
escort, to the temple spoken of. Here we were
placed in a room about twenty feet by ten, which
was entered by another room of the same dimen-
sions, in which eight of the jailers of the board
were stationed. These rooms looked into an open
court about forty feet square, in which we were

MB. PARKES'S NABRATIVB. 246

allowed to take exercise, but a etrong party of
soldiers guarded the outer entrance into this court,
and we soon became aware that military were put
up, in and about all parts of the building. Ilang-ki
exphiined the presence of the jailers, by saying
that they had been brought here to act as our ser-
Tante. With a degree of consideration for our com-
fort, not usually shown by Mandarins, he had sup-
plied us not only with such essentials as good food,
beds, &c^ but also with the luxuries of writing
materials, soap, and towels, &c He left it to our-
selves to order our meals whenever we chose, and
these, I may mention, were abundant and good
during the time of our stay in the Kaowmean tem-
ple. As soon as he had seen us located in our new
quarters, I gave him, according to my promise, the
following note : —

** * The Chinese authorities are now treating Mr.
Loch and myself well, and we are informed that
this is done by direction of the Prince of Kung.
We are also told that his Highness is a man of de-
cision and great intelligence, and I trust that, under
these circumstances, hostilities may be temporarily
susi)ended to give opportunity for negotiation.*

"/Sf/>te//iAer 30. — One of IIang-ki*s head servants
delivered, in the name of the Prince of Kung, a largo
present of fruit and confectionary. Ilang-ki followe<l
himself at 2 P.M., and talked at considerable length,
without having any apparent object He maintained
that the invasion of a country and a march upon the

246 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

capital was altogether contrary to justice and reason,
and that was what we were now doing.

" October 1. — Hang-ki called at 11 a.m^ and was
accompanied by Lao, formerly Taoatai at Shanghai,
and a high literary Mandarin. Lau had been sent
by the Prince of I to Hooseewoo with despatches
for the Ambassadors at the same time that Mr. Wade
and myself had visited the Prince at Tungchow.
In a half-serious tone I compared the different treat-
ment in the two cases. On the 16th of September
I had careftdly escorted Lau past our lines, and on
the 18th I had been seized and brutally ill-treated
by the Chinese in theirs. Hang-ki came forward in
defence. The seizure of myself and party was almost
a necessity, he said, arising out of the exigency of
the moment : hostilities had been resumed, I was in
their hands at the time, and it is contrary to all
reason, he added, to put a sword into the hand of
your enemy at the very time when you are going
to give him combat. True, I had at one time to
complain of ill-treatment, but that had been cor-
rected, and I was now well taken care of. They all
blamed Sankolinsin and the Prince of I for fighting
at Changkeawan instead of concluding peace; but,
although they admitted that my detention was an act
of treachery, they would not see in my present deten-
tion a continuation of the injustice. * The Prince of
Kung does not approve,* Hang-ki said, * of Mr. Loch
going out with the deputies; but we wish you to
write a note to Lord Elgin proposing that your army

MR. PARKES'8 NARRATIVE, 247

should retire for ten or twenty le, and that deputies
firom both sides should then meet upon some neutral
ground.' I pointed out that such proposals should
be made by them to your Lordship direct, and not
through me, and that I could not lower myself in the
eyes of my own people by proposing that our troops
should fall back previous to negotiation. I consented,
however, to note the proposal they made as to a
meeting on neutral ground, and accordingly wrote
to your Lordship the annexed letter. Mr. Loch and
m3rself also prepared private notes to be used in the
event of Prince Kung allowing these to be forwarded
with the former.**

Liberation of Parkes and Loch.

** October 7. — At daybreak this morning, we heard
the sound of a cannonade, which lasted for a few
minutes, and then ceased. It seemed to come from
no considerable distance, and^ as the information
conveyed to us, both publicly and secretly, from our
friends in the camp, had warned us that an attack
might take place at any time, we thought that this
critical moment had now arrived. At a quarter to
eight Hang-ki came in to learn from us the meaning
of the firing. He could no longer conceal from us
that our army was before Pekin, and admitted that
Ewen-ming-Ewen — the Emperor's summer palace —
had been taken by the allied troops yesterday after-
noon* The Prince of Kung, who had been staying

248 HOW WE GOT IX) PEKIN.

there all along, had managed to escape; bnt he,
Hajag-ki, had been nearly taken, as he was going out
to the palaxje, yesterday afternoon. Returning to
the city, in the evening, he found all the gates
closed and the walls manned, and his only means of
getting into the city was by being hauled up in a
basket. He feared that my note, statmg that we
should be sent out on the 8th, and the official letter
from Prince Kung covering it, could not have reached
the English camp.

^^ I told him that, during the whole time of our con-
finement, both in the prison and in the temple, we
had never ceased to warn them against the danger
of delay, and all that we had foretold seemed now to
be coming to pass. Their only chance of escape lay
in the immediate surrender of their prisoners.

" * How is that to be done,' said Hang-ki, * in the
face of firing ? and how can I now get the authority
of Prince Kung for your surrender ? Your immediate
departure would also interfere with the interview he
intended to give you to-day.*

" * The interview,* we replied, * was of little import-
ance, and danger to the city, in case of delay, was
imminent.' We advised him, therefore, to arrange
for our being sent away at once, regardless of whe-
ther we had to go out in the face of fire or not, as
we were very willing to risk that danger.

" He left us, promising to retmn shortly, and we
counted the minutes, until these became hours and
the day began to wear away. We did not again

MK. PARKES'S NARBATIYE. 249

hear the sound of attack, but detected, now and then,
some stir, as the movement of troops, in our vicinity,
and could observe looks of concern on the fiaces of
our guards and jailers. We sent to Hang-ki's house
to inquire about his movements, but all we could
learn from his servants was that after leaving us he
had been lowered over the city wall, and had gone
as they supposed in quest of Prince Eung. It was
impossible to tell when he would return.

" We anxiously looked forward for the next morn-
ing, and felt some relief when no cannonade was heard
as daylight broke. By sending to IIang-ki*s house
we learned that he had returned home at 3 am^
and would be with us shortly. He came at nine,
and the glimpse obtained of his countenance, before
he had put on the look he wished to assume, showed
considerable dejection and anxiety. He explained
to us why he had not returned yesterday. * I left
you full of concern,' he said, * as I knew that the city
and your lives were both in danger. Had the city
been assaulted, the first crj^ raised by the soldiers
would have been, " Away with the foreign prison-
ers.** When I inquired for Prince Kung, I found
that he was too fiir off for me to hope to reach hinou
I therefore despatched a note, proposing that you
should be given up at once, on condition that the
foreign troops should retire from £wen-ming-Ewen,
which they had begun to plunder. At the same
time I received an invitation from Mr. Wade, to
meet him outside the Tihshing gate at fimr o'clock ia

250 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

the afternoon. I went, and we had a long disens-
sion. He demanded not only the immediate sur-
render of the prisoners, but also one of the city gates,
and he handed me this letter, in which you see he
states the same in writing. It is quite impossible to
comply with such a demand, and what therefore can
be done under such circumstances ? *

" I read the note which ran in the names of the
allied Commanders-in-Chief demanding the liberation
of all the prisoners who had been seized, and the de-
livery into their hands of one of the gates of the city,
as a precaution against further acts of perfidy on the
part of the Chinese. I could only tell Hang-ki that
this step was rendered necessary by their previous
acts of bad feith, and that the allies could no longer
put any trust in them. It was useless to hope that
the allied generals would alter their determination
when they had once taken it, nor did I see any course
open to the Chinese except compliance.

" At this moment the prospect before us seemed
darker than ever, but Hang-ki, after some hesitation,
relieved us from our suspense by remarking that he
had agreed with Mr. Wade that we should be given
up to-day as already promised, and that we should
be sent out at four o'clock in the afternoon. Unable
to rely upon the assurance of any Mandarin, we
anxiously awaited the hour named, and could see
that considerable uneasiness was evinced by Hang-ki,
who visited us several times in the course of the
morning. At one time he whispered to me, ' I am

lilt PABKKfirs NABRATIYE. 251

particolarl J anxious to get you away for reasons that
I will tell you of at a future time, and I will not wait
for the hour named to send you oflf/ He was now
willing to give us some information respecting the
other prisoners. Upwards of twenty had been taken^
he said ; but with a view to their safe custody, they
had been divided into small parties and sent away
to different district cities in the interior. It would
take some days to get them all back, and he had
heard that four or five of them had sickened and
died. Those in Pekin numbered eight in all, inclu-
sive of Mr. Loch and myself^ and we were all to be
sent out together.

*^ At last, at two o*clock, he told us that all the
prisoners had been assembled, and that we could take
our departure. We were placed in covered carts,
without being allowed to see each other, and were
escorted by a large party of soldiers and Mandarins
through streets which wore a deserted appearance to
the Se^^he, or north-western gate of the city. We
soon saw, with thankful hearts, as those great por-
tals openiMl, and then immediately closed behind us,
that we were already free men, for our guard, not
daring to follow us out of the city, had left to our-
selves the pleasant task of finding our way to the
allied camp.

** I must not close this report without endeavouring
to express my gratitude to your Lordship for the firm
and uncompromising manner in which you insisted,
fifom the first, upon our surrender, and which, under

252 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

the blessing of Divine Providence, has mainly con-
tributed to our liberation. Nor should I omit to
acknowledge the great debt I also owe to my fellow-
prisoner, Mr. Loch, for the warm support I invari-
ably received from him whenever a moment of trial
or of danger presented itseK I have, &c.

"Harry S.Parkes;'

I never saw a more pitiable sight than the return
of the sowars ; having read their own statements,
you can well imagine the state of those who sur-
vived such brutal and cruel treatment Hardly able
to walk, they drs^ed their legs along and held
their hands before their breasts in a posture de*
noting great suffering, and such hands as they
were, crumpled up and distorted in every possible
way; some with running sores at the wrists, some
in which the bloated appearance caused by the
cords had not yet gone away, and some were shri-
velled like a bird's claw and appeared to be dead and
withered.

Having seen these poor fellows as they came in, I
was not much surprised with a scene which I wit-
nessed a few days afterwards.

I was standing near the entrance of the head-
quarter temple on the evening of the first day of the
burning of the palace, when a Chinaman came up
to me and kowtowed most submissively, and b^ged
of me by signs to accompany him. He made s%ns

•*THE WILD JUSTICE OF REVENGE." 253

that his tail would be cut off, which tail John Chinar
umn values very much, as the loss of it is the loss of
character, although I believe there are as many false
tails iu China as there are forged characters at home ;
he also intimated something about cutting off heads,
and being lK)nnd ; my curiosity was excited so much
by his gestures and by his vehemence, that I went
with him. On the way he made a gesture of winding
something round his head, this intimated a turlian,
and as the quarters of Fane's llorse were close at
hand, I imagined that one of the sowars had alarmed
him and would not let him pass out of the lines.
Suddenly, however, he darted into the courtyard of a
house and beckoned me to follow him, and in the court-
yard I found a sowar walking about as if on sentry,
and I heard groans proceeding from two rooms.

One of these rooms I entered, and found a China-
man lying on his &ce, with his hands and feet tied
together in one knot and meeting all together behind
his back, exactly in the position in which the unfor^
tunate prisoners had been tied ; his taU had been cut
off, and water had been poured on the cords to
tighten them, as it had been in the case of the
prisoners.

While I was looking at the unfortunate wretch,
the sowar quietly walkeil away. My first impression
was that these men had been imprisoned by us
for some theft, and that the sowar, as sentry, had
secured them thus out of revenge ; but when I found
that he had gone away, I understood at once that it

254 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

was a private " pigeon " of his own. In the second
room I found another poor fellow in the same plight,
and here the Sikh had lit a fire and had his kettle
boiling, and was preparing to spend a pleasant even-
ing contemplating the safferings of the Chinamen.
Probably some relation of his in Fane's Horse had
suflFered or perhaps died under the hands of those
barbarians, and he took this method of inflicting re-
tribution. There was something of what Mr. O'Con-
nel used to call " the wild justice of revenge ** about
it. I contented myself with setting the unfortunates
at liberty, for which they expressed their gratitude by
rubbing their noses and foreheads in the dust at my
feet, or " kowtowing " in the most approved style.

The bodies of De Norman, Boulby, Anderson,
and private Phipps, of the King's Dragoon Guards,
were sent in ; they were indeed wretched remains,
not to be recognized, but by some part of the dress.
Poor De Norman's leather coat, which we all knew
so well, remained, and Boulby's socks were marked
with his name. He was, indeed, a public loss, and
much regretted by all in the force who knew him ;
he was most laborious in gathering information, very
observant, and altogether as good a man as could
have been sent out to chronicle the events of the
war; our tents were often pitched close to each
other, and I have watched him hard at work, in the
early morning, as the mail time drew on, and
thought with what interest those lines would be read
by the people at home ; how many millions of pairs

TBEACHERT OF CHINESE GOVEBNMENT. 265

of eyes would drink in the story which they carried.
What mysterious purpose was answered by the
sacrifice of so many valuable lives, and so much
misery both to the sufferers and those left behmd,
can only be known to that wise and merciful Power
which rules the affairs of men, and without whom
" a sparrow does not fall to the ground.'* We may be
sure that some dire necessity existed which was not
to be averted, or the God of mercy would not have
permitted his servants to fall into the hands of such
wretches.

We may, perhaps, conjecture that in the good
&ith of our own hearts we were fools, and slow to
believe the daring fitlsehood and treachery of the
Government with which we had to deal ; and that
some lesson must be learned by the allied powers
which would teach them this, and bum it indelibly
by bitter sorrow into the heart and memory of those
at home as of those in China that an Asiatic, and
above all a Chinese Governor will not keep &ith
except through fear, and that if you are to have any
dealings with him at all, yon must first terrify him,
and flog a certain amount of truth into him by
making him associate the idea of lies and suffering.
It may be that had we not learned at the cost of
such a sacrifice, the un&thomable duplicity and
cruelty of the Pekin Government, we might have
&llen in greater numbers into some wily snare, and
lost not perhaps only subordinates, but the chiefe of
oar mission.

256 now WE GOT TO PEKIN.

On Wednesday, the 17th of October, the funeral
of Messrs. Boulby, Anderson, De Norman, and pri-
vate Phipps, took place. The Russian Embassy had
given permission in the kindest manner that their
burial-ground should be used for the interment of
those unfortunate victims of Chinese treachery and
barbarity, and I would here bear most willing testi-
mony to the kindness and courtesy of the Russian
authorities in China, throughout the whole cam-
paign ; whatever information it was in their power
to give, they were ever ready to afford, and the
cordial good feeling which they evinced upon every
occasion, was enough of itself to contradict the silly
idea put forth in 1859, by the marines at Takoo, that
they had seen Russian feces and heard Russian voices
at the south fort from which they were repulsed.

The Tartars fought just as well in 1860 as they
did the year before, and had the forts been at-
tacked in the same way in that year as they were
in the previous by the same number of the best men
in the world, the result must have been similar;
there is therefore no need to imagine that there
were Russians there upon that occasion. More than
one Russian officer, high in rank, told me during
the campaign, that we were rendering immense ser-
vice to Russia, and there can be no doubt that their
conduct to us was in accordance with that idea.

The Russian burial-ground is outside the north
wall of the city, about a quarter of a mile from it,
and on the verge of that large parade ground already

VIDKTTK OP VAXfc'A HOUtK DKFOBR PKXJN, 1860.

To foot Page 3S7.

THE FUNERAL- 257

described, it is walled in and planted, and an old
Chinaman lives there, and takes care of it, so that
the friends of those whose fote it has been to take
their last earthly rest here, may feel secure that the
remains of those whom they loved, and still love,
will rest in peace till that great day when earth and
sea shall alike yield up the dead that they have
hidden, at the voice of Him who has ** redeemed us
and washed us in his blood,*' when time shall be no
more. May we meet them then in peace through
Him who has '* made peace by the blood of his (Jruss.**

The funeral was an impressive sight Lord Elgin
and Sir II. Grant were chief mourners ; ever}"^ one
made a point of attending, as it wa^ a gratification
to the feelings of all, to show the last tribute of re-
spect to the memory of the departed, and to mark
their sympathy with the cruel fate, which had car^
ried them away in the midst of a career of usefulness
and honour ; nor was there less sympathy for the pri-
vate soldier than for his superior. Poor Phipps, of
the King's Dragoon Guards, with the true spirit
which marks not only his own corps, but the British
army at large, while he was himself suffering the
most cruel tortures, being preyed upon while yet
alive, had not only bonie cheerfully his own agonies,
and who can imagine them! but cheered his com-
panions in suffering up to the very moment that he
sank under his own.

The funeral service was read by me, as princifial
chaplain, and the priest of the Russian church having

258 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

requested me to pemdt him to take part in the ser-
vice, bore the cross, the emblem of the fidth of Christ,
at the graves, while the service was being read.

Winter seemed to have set in on that day; the
heavens were black, and bitter was the cold north
wind, which cut into the very marrow of our bones,
as it swept fix)m the snow-capped mountains down
over the plain, but the sun shone brightly on the
next day, when by the General's order the First
Division marched out under command of Sir John
Michel, to bum the Ewen-ming-Ewen, and all
imperial property within a circuit of several miles.
Never did a Division march with a better will to
perform a more just and loudly called for act of retri-
bution, upon an imperious, treacherous, and cruel
power. There at that palace were the horses and
property of the prisoners found ; there had the fiendish
usage to which they had been subjected begun ; who
was answerable for it ? If you say that Sankolinsin
was the author of the crime, he was but a subordi-
nate, and acted in concert with the Prince of I, who
was befooling us with negotiations at Hoseewoo and
Tungchow, while Sankolinsin was getting his army
into order and arranging his treacherous attack. No,
the imperial power was to blame in this most dis-
graceful act, which stains the page of modem history ;
and most justly did Lord Elgin and Sir H. Grant
devote to destruction the imperial property, and I
hope that England feels that they deserve, as they
most certainly do, the thanks of the country for this

CHINESE STATE PAPERH. 259

performanoe of a special duty, as well as for eveiy-
thing else in their conduct of the missicMi and the
campaign.

Among other important docoments found at the
imperial palace were some *^ Memorials,*' addressed
by officers of state to the EmpenH*, of a very pressing
nature and of a very important diaracten They
have much interest, as they illustrate the views of
those in power in reference to us ; and the arguments
which were used to induce the Emperor to adopt the
policy which he pursued ; and as state papers they
are of no mean character. Haying been fortunate
enough to obtain copies of the translations, made by
Mr. Wade, I insert them here, as they haye not, I
belieye, been as yet made public They proye that
the flight of the Emperor to Jehol was against the
adyice of his ministers.

Na I.— MEMORIAL BY 8ANK0LIK8IN.

7M McnO, lOa da^ (26<A Aupui).

^Tour slaye Sankolinsin, kneeling, presents a
Memorial, judging that the changeable disposition of
the barbarians will make it impossible to carry into
effect the pacific policy, he, in the name of the princes
and dukes of the six leagues, pra}^ your Majesty to
proceed on a hunting tour, in order that measures
for attacking and destroying the bariiarians may be
fiicilitated.

8 2

260 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

" Your slave lately lost the position at Takoo, where
he commanded, in consequence of the unforeseen
explosion of the powder magazines at two of the
north forts simultaneously, and not from any slack-
ness in the defence or insufficiency of means ; there-
fore he apprehends that now it will be difficult to
make the barbarians submit, yet that their demands
can haixily be granted.

^^ Your slave has made the necessary dispositions
along the road between Tien-Tsin and Tungchow.
K fighting should take place near Tungchow, it is to
be feared that the minds of the inhabitants of Pekin
would be greatly agitated. Victory or defeat may
depend on the circumstances of a moment Should
a reverse possibly occur, the trading people who con-
gregate in the capital would desert in multitudes,
and if perchance the hearts of the soldiers should fail,
the consequences might be momentous. (This means
that the Emperor might be made a prisoner.)

" Your slave has received the greatest favours from
your Majesty, and has shown no return for them.
After the most anxious reflection on this present
critical state of affairs, the best course which has
suggested itself to him, and which he has adopted,
appeared to be to write to the princes and others
of the six leagues, desiring them to repair to the
capital with the elite of their troops, so that they
might attend your Majesty on your route, with the pro-
per honours, and there join the rest of the forces. He
humbly begs your Majesty to follow the precedent of

CHINESE STATE PAPERS. 261

making a hunting tour in the autumn, and accordingly
to leave the capital for a time ; and further, that the
princes and state officers left at the head of affairs
may be commanded to see that the army keep the
city in the most perfect state of defence, until they
are joined by the troops of the six leagues, when, all
together, they may attack and exterminate the enemy.
If at that time your Majesty should be in the capital,
not only might the execution of needful plans be
impeded, but also alarm might unfortunately be
excited in your own mind. Your slave does not
shrink fix)m thus, in the name of the princes and
others of the leagues, rashly expressing his and their
obscure views, and which he yet urgently solicits
your Majesty to permit to be carried into effect He
would then be set at liberty to choose his own time
and mode of attack, and might advance or retire as
events should make necessary. Without any doubt
ho would exterminate the vile brood from off the earth,
and redeem his previous shortcomings. He addresses
this secret Memorial to your Majesty for your decision
thereupon. He does not venture to forward this by
the regular express, but, reverently sealing it, he en-
trusts it to Run Sing to deliver it in person.**

No. II.— MEMORIAL BY KIACHINO, AND SIGNED BY
TWENTY-FIVE OTHERS.

1th Mmih^ 24th day (Septemh^r M).

^ Your minister, Kia Ching, and others, kneeling,
present a Memorial, plainly expressing, in obedience

262 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

to the imperial command, their (pinions on the present
critical conjuncture. On this 24tli day of the month
(9th Sept), they have received a vermillion decree,
together with a secret Memorial by Sankolinsin,
which they were directed to peruse. In the decree
they reverently read that their Emperor proposed to
command in persoa the battalions of the empire, and
to proceed to Tungchow to exterminate the vile
brood of barbarians, aqd in this they observed the
firm resolution of the sacred son of heaven, who
governs and tranquillizes the universe.

^^ But they remember that the place in question is
not Tanquen, and at this time Kan Chun has not come
forward. (In allusion to a circumstance in Chinese his-
tory, A.D. 1000, when the then reigning Emperor took
the field against the Mongol Tartars, and defeated
them.) The mist of the sea should be dissipated
by the celestial wrath, but still they consider that the
course proposed is not that which would best conduce
to the interests of the state, and they deem that it
ought not on any account to be lightly adopted. And
Sankolinsin's propositions regarding a hunting tour
your ministers hold to be even more objectionable.
If the capital, which is encompassed with a strong
and uninterrupted line of fortifications, is not secure,
what shelter is to be looked for in open and unfenced
hunting grounds ? But further, your Majesty's de-
parture would excite the wildest agitation in the
people's minds. (Here a reference to Chinese history
is inserted to convey a suggestion that the Emperor,

CHINESE STATE PAPER& 263

after paasing the Great Wall, might perhaps be un-
able to return.)

** Since the barbarians have been able to reach the
post of Tien-Tsin, what is there to prevent them from
likewise penetrating to the Loon River (at Jehol) ?
Your ministers cannot endure to dwell on the ideas
which these reflections awaken in their minds. To
their dull perceptions it seems that men must act in re-
ference to calculable ccmtingencies, while they await in
submission the inscrutable decrees of Heaven. They
cannot but think that Providence has guarded their
humane and beneficent Government during the 200
years of its time, of the empire, and they would take
courage to exert themselves strenuously in the emer-
gency which has occurred. They purpose that your
Majesty should issue an edict, to reassure the people
and incite them to courageous action; that high
rewards should be promised to all who distinguish
themselves, and that special attention should be given
to placing the army in a perfect state of efficiency.
They request that your Majesty will charge the
princes and others charged therewith, speedUy to
mature and carry out the arrangements fw the war of
defence and extermination* They humbly beg your
M%jes^'s decision as to whether their proposals are
right or wrong.-

264 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

No. m.— MEMORIAL BY TSINEN YUNG AND FORTY
OTHERS.
7ih Monih, 21th day (I2th September).

*^ Your ministers consider that the project of a
hunting tour is likely to endanger the stability of the
Government, and they therefore pray that your
Majesty will remain in the capital. Your ministers
have heard, with the greatest surprise and alarm,
that, in consequence of the failure of the attempt
to bring the barbarians to terms, your Majesty has
resolved on making a tour to Jehol, and that orders
had been sent to the various corps of the banners to
make the necessary preparations. As the safety of
the empire might be compromised by such a proceed-
ing, your ministers, under a deep sense of responsi-
bility, desire to submit in detail various reasons which
they conceive to weigh against its adoption.

^^ More than 200 years have elapsed since the esta-
blishment of the empire by Shunche, and the founda-
tion of the ancestral temples. A time of general
distress and difficulty having now arrived, it is of the
utmost consequence that the minds of the people should
be kept tranquil ; but for your Majesty to undertake
so universal a journey at the very moment when the
approach of the outside barbarians is imminent, would
be a thing which must cause extreme alarm and con-
fusion. The daily accounts of the impressment of
carts and carriages along the route have already
produced much agitation amongst the people, but,

CHINESE STATE PAPEBS. 265

after your Majesty shall have started, a saocessioQ of
disorders will arise.

** So great a distorbance of the ancestral and tate-
laiy spirits, this voluntary provocation of dangers,
most surely hereafter produce bitter, but unavailing
regret in your Majesty's mind — and these consi-
derations constitute the first ground which your
ministers have to adduce against the project of
the hunting excursion. The autunmal hunting tour
has hitherto been undertaken, when the occasion
seemed expedient, only at periods of tranquillity, and
in this manner it has been an institution of our
august dynasty. But now, when the barbarians are
raising commotions, when the rebels are spreading
over the countr}% all people both at the capital and
in the country look to your Majesty, pn\sent at
the seat of Government, as the centre finom which the
plans of Government must emanate, and the support
of authority and order. This sudden departure with-
out any apparent reason (although called a hunting
tour) will bear the aspect of a flight; not only will
it tend to shake the resolution of the tnx^ and their
officers, near the capital ; but the commanders of the
various armies at a distance will also be filled with
doubts and alarms, nor can it be asserted that the
intelligence will not greatly raise the courage of the
rebels. Thus all the great interests of the empire
will be endangered, and perhi^is beyond a chance
of remedy; herein is the second ground of your
ministers* objection to the tour.

266 HOW WE GOT TO PBKIN.

" The imperial residence is securely guarded, and it
is the honourable seat of Majesty. At such a moment
as this, when it is the sovereign's only proper place of
residence, is not the time suddenly to propose a tra-
velling tour. Moreover, when turmoil everywhere
prevails, the police of the roads cannot be expected
to be perfect A journey to Jehol has not been made
smce that of the late Emperor Tao Yunang, forty years
ago; and the crowd of carriages and horses will greatly
surprise the inhabitants of the places through which
they pass. It is said that the people about Jehol are
far from being as orderly as they formerly were.
Robberies on the highway have become very nume-
rous. The people, who are distressed through the
falling off in the yield of the mines, herd together in
tens and hundreds, and go about creating distur-
bance. Should some unlooked-for mischief befiall
your Majesty, or should spies carry the informati(Mi
of your absence, the barbarians might be emboldened
to attempt some fresh enterprise. If the discussions
respecting the exchange of treaties should be brought
to a successful conclusion, it would cause great incon
venience to be long delayed in waiting for your
Majesty's commands: thereupon the above are a
third reason against the tour.

^^ Since the time of the commencement of the war,
the rebellion, the treasury has daQy become more and
more embarrassed, and it is very difficult to meet the
regular expenditure of the capital. Jehol is a great
resort of the Mongols, and we have heard that upon

ClilNESK STATE PAPEIC8. 267

thesep whenever an imperial toor. was made in the
times of Yuen Lung and Yai Yoing, presents amount-
ing to no less than several tens ct millions were be-
stowed. The state of the finances would not admit of
this rule being now followed, and it would be difficult

^ Again, the requisite escort of officials, troops, and
followers would have to be over 10,000 persons,
numbers of whom, should there be any deficiency in
the supplies, could not be prevented fix)m deserting.
Lastly, much of the route is along the fix)nticr, where
banditti roam about at will, by whom some unex-
pected mischief might be conunitted : these conside-
rations make a fourth ground of objection to the
proposed tour.

^ Let it not be supposed that your ministers desire
to parade grand arguments, regardless of your
Miyesty*s danger in a critical emergency ; nor that
they would have anything to allege against an ordi-
nary peaceable tour, such as has been practical in
former times. Taking the most practical view of the
subject, they cannot see that any necessity has now
arisen to enter precipitately upon the undertaking in
question. Granting that the whole force of the
barbarians hardly exceeds 10,000 men, and that
Sankolinsin conunands more than 30,000, they make
no question that the many might defeat the few.
They desire to notice the fieu^t, that the barbarians
who have come across the ocean have hitherto
shown that their only object is to trade. Their
creeping into Shangtung, Fokien, Sh a ngha i, and

268 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

other places was only to seize the ports, and not to
take possession of the country, nor have they at-
tempted any conquest of China. Even the point of
entry into Pekin is one which might be satisfiictorily
disposed of. In all which is going on, there is no-
thing to make one apprehend great misfortune, but
if, before the appearance of the barbarians, a flight
should take place, it is impossible to say what revo-
lution in affairs might not be the immediate conse-
quence. The mind recoils from speculation on the
subject Far better would be due forethought and
deliberation before the event, than unavailing re-
grets after. *

" Another consideration is, that in your Majesty's
present happy state of convalescence, it would be
undesirable to expose yourself to the fetigues of tra-
velling during the yet hot weather of autumn.
Such are your ministers* obscure views, Ac, &c., &c.**

No. IV.— MEMORIAL BY TSINEN YUNG, A PRESIDENT OF
THE BOARD OP CIVIL OFFICE, SIGNED BY TWENTY-
THREE OTHERS.

7th Month, 2Sth day (IZth September).

"Your ministers, Tsinen Yung and others, kneel-
ing, present a Memorial. They again state in detail
their opinions, to show that the departure of your
Majesty to a place to the northward of Pekin^ must
create great agitation in the metropolis ; and that the
best means of restoring tranquillity, and confirming

CHINESE STATE PAPEKS. 269

the spirit of the army, would be for yoar Majesty to
remain at Pckin. At a period of public distress,
the man of heroic character is prepared to die at his
post, and at such a time, the most perfect sincerity
and truthfuhiess only befit the conduct of either high
or low. Your ministers have to-day respectfully read
the Vermillion decree, stating that the arrangements
for your Majesty's proposed hunting expedition are
to serve as preparations for taking the field in per-
son, and that if the enemy is met in the vicinity of
Matow or Tungchow, your Majesty will proceed
with a strong force as originally intended to a place
to the northward of Pekin, and there take up a
position.

^ They admire the inspiring demeanour and the
strategic ability thus displayed. But the common
people are extremely slow of comprehension ; they
easily suspect, and with difficulty appreciate, and
they will say that as the barbarians are to the south-
eastward of the capital, the change of plan from a
hunting tour to taking the field in person should
induce your Majesty to remain at Tungchow for
the support of Sankolinsin; that the taking up a
post to the northward of the a^ital would be a
departure from the seat of war, and accordingly that
what in name was campaigning, was in reality a
hunting tour. The people's mind would be disturbed,
and the spirit of the troops would fail If defence
and holding out in words are to mean flight and
desertion in foct, your ministers will not urge on

270 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

your Majesty. Thus the temples of your ancestors
and the altars of the tutelary gods will be aban-
doned {u e. the empire lost).

" But they ask where else could your Majesty's per-
sonal safety be better assured than at the capital?
Beyond the Hoopee-kow pass (in the Great Wall) is
the haunt of Russian barbarians, and these have been
constantly pretending to deliver communications to
the Government at Pekin for the furtherance of some
treacherous designs. That region is also frequented
by bands of mounted robbers, who suddenly collect
in hundreds and thousands, and attack traders and
officials, respecting whom, however, all reports have
been suppressed by the local Mandarins. Although
the barbarians may be near the capital^ yet its
fortifications being strong, and its garrison large, in
it no danger need be feared ; wherefore, then, should
your Majesty go into the dens of tigers and robbers ?
If it be said that your Majesty's departure would
balk the barbarians' scheme, and contribute to &r
cilitate either peace or war&re as might be expe-
dient, it should not be forgotten, on the other hand,
that if commotions were to arise within the capital,
the authors of our calamities would not be the bar^
barians, but ourselves.

" There may be some about your Majesty's person,
who will say that the repeated attempt of so many of
your ministers to dissuade your Majesty fh)m the
hunting tour, proceed from personal motives and a
desire to lessen their own danger. To this they would

CHINB8B STATE PAPERS. 271

reply that sach a tour has never been known to occa-
sion inoonvenience to the whole body of officials ; bnt,
on the contrary, that did they desire their own advan-
tage, they woold iavoor the project, for it wonld give
themselves the means of escaping danger. These
three questions present themselves : — What if your
Majesty should find yourself in a place without any
retreat ? What if your Majesty's departure should
lead to commotions within the capital? What if
your Majesty should be in the midst of more serious
dangers than when at Pekin? Your Miyesty is
well fiuniliar with the maxim, that the Prince is
bound to sacrifice himself for his country. But far
be it fix)m your ministers at such a time as this to
desire to wound your Majesty's feelings by adverting
to such thoughts; and, indeed, the crisis is in no
degree so serious as to make it necessary to dwell
on them.

^ The great danger now to be avoided is that of
disturbance arising firom within. At all risks your
ministers make the above reverent exposition of
their sentiments^ and they await your Majesty's
commands, AcJ"

Xo. V.^M EMORIAL BY AI JIN. A CEKSOR, AND SEVENTY-
F1)UR OTHERS.

Itk N<mth, Zith duy (\2ik Sepiemher}.

^ Your ministers, Ai Jin and others, respectiully
submit their (pinion that the capital and court ought

272 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

not to be forsaken on light grounds. On the 24th
day of this present month the princes and ministers
of the inner council received a vermillion decree,
stating that your Majesty intended proceeding for a
time on a hunting tour. Your ministers heard of this
with extreme astonishment and alarm; they would
humbly remark that, although the barbarians* vessels
may have reached Tien-Tsin, the circumstance has
not excited much fear in the capital The throne is
that in which all things centre, and to which the eyes
of all men turn: one step of the Emperor's foot
shakes the earth. The project in question, then,
must have originated without due thought of the
dangers which would ensue therefrom. It is impos-
sible that your Majesty's household, and the princes
and grandees who will form j^our escort and live in
Pekin, can be well disposed, and who leave a place of
security, even in attendance on the imperial person.
^' CommeDcing in haste and confusion, the crowd
of followers would be alive to everything which
excite their fears; and if they should disperse
in mid-journey, no means might be found of going
back or forward. Since 1820, the year in which
his late Majesty discontinued the hunting tour, it
is said that the country has become very deso-
late, and that the travelling places have fellen now
into disrepair and are unfit to live in. Your
ministers do not know what the character of the
inhabitants may now be, but they may safely say
that it cannot be as loyal as that of the inhabit-

CHINESE STATE PAPERS. 273

ants of the capital city, which has been established
for 200 years. Agun^ Jehol is at no great distance
from the Shanghai Ewane (pass near the terminus
of the great wall), and other places which are quite
accessible to the barbarians.

^ It is also near the Russian barbarians ; and such
l)eing the case, who can deem it secure ? Our troops
now are several times more numerous than those
of the barbarians, but if your Miyesty were to leave
the Court, every-one would be disheartened, a panic
might break out, the barbarians would use the oppor-
tunity to take the city, and we should become victims
to their wiles in a worse degree than when the men
of Kin in ancient times installed Lein Yu and Chang
Pang Chang in the Government (about aj>. 1127).
Thenceforward the capital would not belong to us,
and the empire would share its fate.

^ As to a council of regency, composed of princes
and ministers appointed to act during your Miyosty*s
temporary absence, your ministers would remark
that the present time may not be compared with that
of the Kia Ching reign. By no possibility could the
proper management of domestic as well as foreign
afiairs be safely confided to it From of old it has l)een
seen that it could never be certified that the conclusion
of such a regency would match with its beginning.

•* Although Tai-Tsung, of the Ming dynasty ( a j).
1457), was not a disloyal prince, yet when Jing-
Tsung returned from his northern journey to the
Sha Mo, it was by a slight chance that he escaped

T

274 HOW WE GOT TO PBKIN.

passmg the remainder of his days in retirement in
the south of the country. The experience of all
former regencies is calculated to inspire the utmost
caution with reference to such a mode of adminis-
tration.

" From the first establishment of our dynasty there
has been a great intermingling of natives and
foreigners, and they have flourished in mutual pros-
perity; of this we have had a previous example.
The barbarians of the present day are nothing com-
parable in ferocity to those of the time of Yung Eoa,
in the Tsin dynasty (a.d. 309), or Tsing-Kang, in
the Sung dynasty (a.d. 1127). If then, giving ear
to base gossip and on the impulse of the moment, the
empire of the world is to be thrown away like a
weed, the duty to the spirits of the saints in the
other world wiU have been left undone, and no
response will have been made to the aspirations of
governing or governed throughout the universe. Let
the Emperor's dear intelligence decide how he could
bear such a thought We know how in the 18th
Kia Ching year (1813), while his Majesty the then
reigning Emperor (Kia Ching) was on a hunting tour,
the revolt of Lin Tsing broke out ; the alarm it oc-
casioned, causing all traffic to be suspended and the
shops to be shut, and bow the Emperor's return
diffused general delight and restored the tranquillity
of the city. The danger was then most threatening,
as need not be proved. A puff of breath is now
sufficient to decide the balance in which hangs the

CHINESE STATE PAPERa 275

loss or preservation of the saccession of yonr ancestors,
and the repose of the tutelary gods (L e. the &te of
the dynasty).

" We humbly entreat your Majesty of your sole
motion to determine that the project lately contem-
plated shall be renounced, and so make your empire
to rejoice. Your ministers ask one more act of grace.
As your Majestj'*s intention to travel was publicly
announced, and men*s minds have been so much dis-
turbed, that it would be difficult to reassure them,
they beg that you will promulgate your determina-
tion to return to your palace, that &lse rumours may
be at once extinguished and tranquillity restored,
the national decline may be arrested, and the
Grovernment may recommence a course of success.
Your ministers and the others, being by their office
obliged to call attention to national evils, have ac-
cordingly thus expressed their imperfect views with
all humility, and they await your Majesty's com-
mands, &C., kQr

No. VL— MEMORIAL BY AI YIN, A CENSOR ; AND TWENTY-
SIX OTHERS.

7M MmUh^ 28M da^ (13<A Sejpttfnhef).

"Your ministers having yesterday presente<l a
Memorial in their joint names to yonr Majesty, then
received with reverence a vermilion decree. On
perusal of it they were deeply and gratefully im-
pressed by the solicitude it showed to have been

T 2

276 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

excited in your Majesty*s mind ; but the propositioa
it contained was one in which they cannot concnr,
and therefore they do not dare to refiuin fix)m again
rashly urging their views. For the Emperor to
command the army in person is a thing which may
not be lightly undertaken. In 1853, when the
Cantonese rebels overran the country, advancing im-
petuously towards the north, the alarm occasioned in
the capital was many times more serious than that
now manifested. Happily your Majesty appointed
generals able to cope with the enemy, and the ram-
pant outbreak was quelled. Why should not now
the barbarians, hardly 10,000 in number, be easily
vanquished and expelled firom the country by the
many times larger army under our generals ?

^ Would not the assumption of command be a de-
rogation from the Imperial dignity, and likely to
astonish all who should hear of it ? Moreover, your
Majesty's intention to go hunting having been first
published, would the announcement of your change
of purpose be certain to meet with universal belief?
Again, the tranquillity of people's minds depends
upon your Majesty's presence at the seat of govern-
ment, and it would be subverted by your departure
therefrom. Again, your Majesty proceeding to the
northward, while the enemy was at the south, would
be another circumstance, producing much doubt and
disturbance.

" In former journeys of the Emperor, it has been the
practice to appoint sundry princes and state officials

CHINESB STATE PAPERS. 277

to cany on affairs while he was absent Matters of
great moment being still referred to his Majesty, and
the arrangement was an excellent one. Bnt this
troublous season is not at all to be compared with
peaceful times. It would be most difficult to find to
whom the superintendence of the government could
be safely entrusted. The greatest evils might arise
if a little excess of authority were given to thenu
While the mischief resulting from negligence might
be easily remedied, those springing j&om abuse of
power would be impossible to control, and it is fear-
ful to think of them. On all these points jour
ministers have most maturely deliberated, and they
now state their views, &C., &€.**

No. VIL— MEMORIAL BY TSAO TANG YUNG. A CENSOR
OF THE HOD YUNANG PROVINCES.

7th Month, 2dM day (i3M September),

** Your minister, Tsao Yung, kneeling, presents a
Memorial The barbarians being on the advance,
and the plans with respect to peace having been
found difficult of accomplishment, he urgently entreats
your Majesty to return to your capital, and so to
yield compliance with men*s wishes, to maintain the
dignity of the throne, and to pacify the spirits of your
ancestors and the tutelary divinities. Since the
stealthy entry of the rebellious barbarians into
Tien-Tsin district, although the Imperial councils
have been shrouded in secresy and not known to the

278 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

public, yet all kinds of confused rumours have been
everywhere producing great disturbance. Lately it
appeared that Sankolinsin had retired to Yang-Tsien,
and then to Tsas^Tsun^ and again that he was de-
prived of his commission. After that, that his
Majesty had appointed Tunci Chang and Hang Foo,
Imperial Commissioners, to settle affidrs. Subse-
quently expresses at the rate of 600 le incessantly
arrived. One report was that peace at any price
was determined on. Another, that 20,000,000 taels
were promised, of which the payment in ready money
of 2,000,000 was a matter undecided. Another,
that several tens of thousands Mongol soldiers had
been ordered down, and that war was determined on.
Another, that your Majesty's design of carrying on
the war was opposed by some persons. The confu-
sion and alarm are indescribable. But there has been
nothing so strange as the report now heard, that your
Majesty intended making a tour to Jehol. This has
caused the utmost consternation, but your minister
does not believe in it, still, as many oflBcials have
repeatedly prayed your Majesty to return to your
palace, without obtaining a &vourable reply, an un-
definable fear cannot be resisted. li^ indeed, the
report is true, the effect produced will be like a con-
vulsion of nature, and the mischief must be irreparable.
" In what light does your Majesty regard your
people ? In what light the shrines of your ancestors,
or the altars of the tutelary gods ? Will you cast
away the inheritance of your ancestors like a damaged

CHINESE STATE PAPERS. 279

shoe ? What would history say of your Majesty for
a thousand years to come ? It has never been known
that a sovereign should choose a time of danger
and distress to make a hunting tour, supposing that
thereby he would prevent trouble. If the capital
should be disturbed, your Majesty is besought to
return without delay to your palace, in order that the
people's minds may be reassured. The a^)ital is
most strictly guarded. The spirit of all the inhabit-
ants is raised to the highest pitch, and even women
and children are determined to fight to the last
Al)ove all, Sankolinsin is now at the head of several
tens of thousands of Mongol troops, who have brought
their supplies with them, and who take nothing from
the Imperial treasury. Their fidelity and valour are
completely proved. If on the first approach of the
rebellious barbarians Takoo and Petang had been
equally defended, and the barbarian vessels attacked
as they advanced, they would have been unable to
ascend the shallow and narrow creeks. It was those,
be they who they might, who directed the pacific
policy, who embarrassed our plans and caused their
&ilure, leading to the occupation of Tien-Tsin, and
who are the persons responsible for tilus.

** In the time of the southern Tung dynasty, when
the people of Kin raised disturbances, Yo Yei re-
conmiended war, and Tsinhung opposed him, and
was the cause of national calamities. If now there
are some like Tsinhung near your Majesty's person,
it would be befitting that the law should overtake

280 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

their crimes. Your Majesty might make a public
confession of your own error, and thus fortify the
national resolution. Moreover, the supreme control
of the war might be placed in the hands of Sanko-
linsin. When Te-tseing, of the Taing dynasty, made
a public confession of error, the mutinous soldiery of
Shan Tung were converted to obedience and sub-
ordination. The enrolment of volunteers in the Tien-
Tsin district is a step to be recommended. They
were found serviceable in the incursion of the
Cantonese banditti in 1853, and also when the re-
bellious barbarians invaded Tien-Tsin last year.

" Your Majesty is prayed to command that they
may be employed as auxiliaries to Sankolinsin's
regular forces. The barbarians do not exceed a few
thousands in number, and a considerable portion
of their force consists of hired traitorous Chinese,
gain being the motive which chiefly actuates
this heterogeneous mob. K money were judi-
ciously employed, and an appeal made to the pa-
triotism of the mercenaries, the whole of this body
might be dispersed without recourse to arms. Your
ministers cannot imagine why this has not been
attempted. Should any object to such an expendi-
ture, one need not refer to the 20,000,000 proposed
to be spent in carrying out the pacific measures, but
only ask that the 2,000,000 ready-money should
be so used. When once the pacific policy should be
accomplished fresh demands would be made every
year, for which the barbarian rebels would always

CHINESE 8TATE PAPERS. 281

fiiid a pretext When Swochow and Hang Chow
fell this year, several millions of Government money
went to swell the rebels* booty, and of private
property, the amoont sacrificed was incalculable.
Your Mcyesty is prayed to command that the money
required be issued from the privy purse, to be re-
funded as may be found expedient after the restora-
tion of peace. If the outside barbarians are to be
duly controlled, it is certain that peace must not be
accorded before they have been defeated in battle.
His late Imperial Majesty, in his last testament,
speaks with shame and contrition of the peace with
the Ijarbarians. May your Miyesty take this to heart,'*
[The Memorialist here digresses into a personal
narrative to excuse his addressing the Emperor with-
out proper authority.]

Postscript.

" While your minister's Memorial was being written
he reverentlv read the Vermillion edict of this dav, as
follows : — ^ Considering that the approach of the bar
barians and the various circumstances of the present
crisis demands from us a course of action calculated
to fortify the resolution of our people, we have
directed that the arrangements for our proposed hunt-
ing tour shall serve as preparations for our taking the
field in person against the enemy. Let the (Huns
Tsin Wang) the Emperor's micle give orders for the
proper distribution of the garrison of Pekin. If the
enemy is met between Tungchow and Matow we

282 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

shall proceed, as originally intended, to the north*
ward of the capital, and take up a position with a
strong force. The spirit of our army leaves us no
reason to fear that the handful of barbarians, not
amounting to 10,000, shall not be completely de-
stroyed Let this decree be read by the princes and
other officers of state.' From the above it appears
that your Majesty's northern tour is positively decided
upon. Does our Emperor then think nothing of his
people, of the temples of his ancestors, and of the
altars of the tutelary gods ? If he really means to
command in person, why does he speak of proceeding
to the northward to take up a post with a strong
force ? Such language wiU not meet with any faith
on the part of the people. But the grand army under
Sankolinsin is quite suflficient to conclude the war
with success; and why, therefore, should your
Majesty expose yourself to the fatigues and dangers
of a campaign ? The gravity of the crisis does not
allow of much speech. Your minister only entreats
that you will consent to the advice and desire of
all, and return to your Court to superintend the
affairs of Government, and regretting doubtful coun-
sels, &C., &C."

I have given these documents at length, partly on
account of the ability with which the various points
put forward are argued by the Imperial Ministers;
and in part because they give us the real light in

BURNINO OP THE PALACB. 283

which our policy was viewed by the existing minis-
try ; we see in them also a high tone of independence,
which could hardly have been expected from men
whose life depended upon one stroke of the ** Vermil-
lion pencil.**

Not having had an opiwrtunity of comparing my
copy with the original documents, I am not certain as
to some of the names. But I must now describe the
burning of the palace.

My duties did not permit me to be present on the
first day when this work of destruction was l>cpun ;
the troops were spread over the country by one and
two companies, and fired every building in four
palatial "gardens,** as they are called^ beginning
with the Ewen-ming-Eweu ; next, and to the west,
the Whan-shaw-Ewen ; then the Chin-ming-Ewen ;
and last, the Heang-shaw, which mean respectively
the " enclosed and beautiful garden,** " the birthday
garden,** " the golden and brilliant garden,** and the
** fragrant hills.**

On the second day I arrived at about eight o'clock
in the morning, at the Ewen-ming*Ewen, and started
witli Fane's and Probyn's Horse, three guns, and
the Queen's, to the farthest of these places, the
Ileang-shaw. We marched through scenery of the
most enchanting beauty, planted hills lakes, tem*
Ijles, with villages interspersed, which were the
abodes of the Imperial troops; many a matchlock
was to be seen in their houses, but they thought
only of conciliating us by "chin-chining,** **kow-

284 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

towing/' and offerings of hot tea and cold water. I
never experienced more mingled feelings than upon
this occasion. As I rode along through scenes
which (if anything can compensate for the absence
of those " looks that we love," as Moore calls them)
it was worth while coming all the way from home to
see ; I could not help giving to them all the admi-
ration of my heart which their beauty demanded. A
tribute so due that you must perforce pay it

I turned the comer of a high wall round which the
paved road led, and before me was a dense mass of
smoke, and the fierce blaze of the raging fire tower-
ing above it, and far above the trees. A temple,
which means not one building, but a whole cluster of
separate edifices, circling round one great shrine, was
in flames, and communicating destruction to the
noble trees, in and around it, which had shed their
grateful shade over it for many a generation: its
gilded beams and porcelain roof of many colours, in
which of course the Imperial yellow claimed the
superiority — ^all, all, a prey to the devouring ele-
ment You could not but feel that although devoid
of sympathy for its deity, there was a sacrilege in
devoting to destruction structures which had been
reared many, many hundred years ago ; nor was it
the buildings only, adorning as they did the scenery,
which claimed your sympathy, but every building
was a repository of ancient and curious art, enamels
made before the present dynasty of China, books to
no end, engravings of all sorts of scenes, historical,

A RESIDENCE WITH ITS TEMPLES. 285

illustrating the wars of the Chinese and Tartars,
some the production of purely native talent, and
others by Jesuit missionaries, and drawn in the
Chinese style. These missionaries are generally
learned in something else besides religion, and thus
they beat ours out of the field altogether. Em-
broidered hangings of enormous value, altar fur-
niture plated with gold, things, which, apart alto-
gether from their value, were full of interest from
their beauty and rarity, all devoted to destruction ;
some few were saved by officers, but as carriage was
difficult, but few.

The most remote point that we nmde that day,
and which bounds the Imperial gardens here, was a
residence, with its temple and dependencies among
the hills. It was about eight or perhaps nine miles
fix)m the Ewen-ming-Ewen. It lay embosomed in a
richly planted hollow on the side of the hill ; close
by was a strong work like one of those martello
towers which you see on our coast, only of much
larger dimensions, while a large village, a barrack of
Tartar troops, was about half^i-mile distant Yon
entered a walled enclosure by five or six gates
placed at short intervals ; the wall was just like one
of our deer-park walls at home, built of stone and
mortar, and it reminded me of more than one home
scene, as I traced it up the hill-side in the distance.

First came a court-yard with buildings as usual
on three sides, then terraces succeeding each other,
and ascended by easy flights of steps, and shaded.

286 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

all deeply shaded, by luxuriant timber, grateful even
now, for the sun is hot to-day ; down the hill, by the
side of the steps, flows a cool stream received in
successive basins, how delicious is this "living*'
water. As you ascend, you arrive at buildings once
the abode of the fair ones who graced the Imperial
court ; open that box, or rather look into it, for it has
been opened already, there are their dresses, there
are the " pypimahs," the petticoat richly embroidered,
and not like those at home an unbroken circle, but
opening at eadi side to the waist, and put in "full,"
I declare, into the waistband ; it ties with strings ; put
it on ; there you are, it touches the ground nearly on
you, and you are five feet ten. These Tartary prin-
cesses must be tall ; no doubt they are. The men
are fine, tall fellows, and their mothers cannot be
dwar& ; there is the cloak, too — ^take them all, they
will be burned in half-an-hour if you don't ; this is a
case of " salvage," not plunder.

More gadestone, «more books, carpets, pictures,
enamels, everything you can imagine. There are
the Sikhs, carrying off any amount of thick doth
and carpet for warm sheeting for their horses, for the
nights are cold now. What campaigners those
fellows are, fit to go anywhere; and when led by
such men as Probyn and Fane, fit to do anything.

The troops are halted here for about an hour, and
the various corps receive their orders fix)m Sir. J.
Michel as to where they are to carry on the work of
destruction. Looking up from the entrance of the

BUBNING OF THE PALACE. 287

park, the groaps of buildings which were scattered
through the thickly wooded hollow in the hiU-side
extended for about a mile and a half up the hill, and '
reached about half-a-mile right and left of tlie en-
trance ; soon after the order was given, you saw a
wreath of smoke curling up throng the trees that
shaded a vast temple of great antiquity, which was
near the centre of the park, and roofed with yellow
tiles that glistened in the sun, moulded as the}- were
in every grotesque form that only a Chinese imagi-
nation could conceive; in a few minutes other
wreaths of smoke arose from half-a-hundred different
places, each like the smoke from some gamekeeper's
cottage, hidden in the woods on a hill side in some
park at home.

Soon the wreath becomes a volume, a great black
mass, out burst a hundred flames, the smoke ob-
scures the sun, and temple, palace, buildings and all,
hallowed by age, if age can hallow, and by beauty,
if it can make sacred, are swept to destruction, with
all their contents, monuments of imperial taste and
luxury. A pang of swrow seizes upon you, you
cannot help it, no eye will ever again gaze upuu
those buildings which have been doubtless the admi-
lation of ages, records of by-gone skill and taste, of
which the world contains not the like. You have
seen them once and for ever, they are dead and gone,
man cannot reproduce them* You turn away from
the sight ; but befinre you arises the vision of a sad,
solemn, slow procession. Mark that most touching

288 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

sight, the dashing charger led, not ridden ; the saddle
is empty, the boot is in the stirrup, but it is empty
also ; the limb that filled it forms now a part of the
skeleton that lies in the coffin on that gun-carriage.
You saw that sight two days ago, you see a vision of
it now ; you turn back and gaze with satisfaction on
the ruin firom which you had hidden your fiice, and
say, " Yes, thank Grod, we can make them feel
something of the measure of their guilt;" and if
there were another building left to bum, you would
carry the brand to it yourself.

Fane, with a troop or two of his sowars, takes a
circuit on our return, and fires some outlying build-
ings which had escaped on the march out, and on
our return to the Ewen-ming-Ewen we find that the
60th Bifles and Punjaubs had made the best use of
their time and burned &r and wide, and all that now
remained was the Hall of Audience already described,
and the lodges and buildings between that and the
grand entrance ; they were spared to the last, as in
them the troops had been quartered. It is three
o'clock, and we have to march back to Pekin; the
order is given, fire soon found, and a few smart rifle-
men soon set the Audience Hall in a blaze ; its pomp
and state, and it was a noble chamber, are going &st
before the devouring flame ; the roof must soon go
in, it has been alight some time, you feel the heat a
hundred yards off ; there down it goes, with a terrific
crash. Now for the gate and the lodges, don't
leave one, no, not one — ^not a vestige remains of the

REFLEcnoxa 289

palace of palaces, the Ewen-ming-Ewen. Now Ixick
again to Pekin, a good work has been done.

Yes, a good work, I repeat it, though I write it with
regret, with sorrow; stem and dire wa^ the nee<l
tlmt a blow should be struck which should l)a felt at
the very heart's core of the Government of China, and
it was done. It was a sacri(i(*c of all that w&s most
ancient and most beautiful^ but it was offered to tho
manes of the true, the honest, and the valiant^ and it
was not too costly, oh no! one of such lives was
worth it alL It is gone, but I do not know how to
tear myself from it I love to linger o\er the rea)l-
lection and to picture it to myself, but I cannot make
you see it. A man must l>e a poet, a painter, an
historian, a virtuoso, a Chinese scholar, and I don't
know how many other things besides, to give you
even an idea of it, and I am not an approach to any
one of them. But whenever I think of lieanty and
taste, of skill and antiquity, while I live, I shall see
))efore my mind's eye some scene from those grounds
those palaces, and ever regret the stem but jast
necessity which laid them in ashes.

I do not believe that the present djk'nasty will
ever survive the shock which it has received from
GOT advance on Pekin; I look upon its clan's as
numbered, and I believe that a new and much
brighter era Ls about to open upon that vast and
glorious country under some new rule. Those whom
we now call " the rebels *• being then in the a^'oend-
ant» they have, while I now write, but a few oKNiths

r

290 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

after the events described, beaten by themselves
the armies of Sankolinsin, already thrice beaten
by us ; and the ambassador, Mr. Brace, who is now
at Pekin, may yet, in a short space of t^nie, have
to renew or alter with them (not to circumscribe)
the treaty just concluded with the powers that now
exist; and I would hope that the future rulers of
that vast empire may learn a lesson from this ex-
pedition and its events, which will teach them for
ever to respect the name of England, and of all that
she represents in the world, of troth, of honour, and
of justice, without having the bitter reflection, whidi
ever must remain did the present dynasty endure,
that it was taught to them in their own persons.*

And though I am not one of those who call the
Tae-pings Christians, yet I am sure that their re-
ligion is intended by them for Christianity, and that
there is a good deal that is Christian about it, and
I believe that they detest images, which is a good
thing, and that they circulate the sacred Scriptures,
and profess their anxiety to learn the way of God
more perfectly; and I feel convinced that should
they gain the ascendancy in China, there will be
such an opening for the spread of Christianity as
there has not been on earth since the days of Con-
stantine. Let England be ready for the day when it

* Since the above was written the Emperor has died. Prince Kung
has become Regent, and our neutrality has been broken by our oon*
flict with the rebels at Shanghai ; all which circumstances much alter
the prospects of the dynasty.

REFLECTIONS. 291

comes, France will be, and she has a good footing in
the country already. America has done ten times
as much in China as we have ; one of the first people
who came to Tien-Tsin was an American missionary,
Mn Blodgott, a gentleman who appears to be very
well suited for the work which he has chosen^ and it
is no easy task, — ^a minsionary here does not sleep
upon a bed of roses. But England ought to have
both men and means to do at least as much as other
countries. Gladly would I know that, if need ))e,
resources were diverted from that country which
(like its own sands) has drunk up so much of our mis-
sionary labour, and like them has yielded so little —
India; and that they were made to flow into this
diannel, where I feel certain that the return would
be infinitely greater.

V 2

292 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER XIV,

The Auction— Discovery of the Treasury— Prize Money— Incidents of
the Auction — Scarcity of Money — Anting Gate— London and
Pekin— The Walls of Pekin— Butchers' Shops —" Chow-Chow *'
Shops — Coal-yards— Curiosity of People — ^Importance of John
Chinaman— Description of Town— Tartar Town— Furs and Skins
— ^Shops — Bargaining— John Bull — Puzzling John Chinaman —
The Temple of the Earth— The Temple of Heaven.

Before we entered Pekin it was dull enough sitting
down before that great wall and looking at the out-
side of it : but we had some amusement at the auction,
where all the articles taken from the palace were
sold for the benefit of all the troops which had ad-
vanced on Pekin ; two-thirds to be given to the men,
and one to the officers. To this fund was added, by
Sir H. Grant, a quantity of gold and silver, found in
the palace three or four days after it had been in the
hands of the French. It is a very curious circum-
stance, that a strong room with an iron door, in the
very centre of the building, close to the imperial
apartments, should have escaped the notice of our
gallant and clever allies for three or four days. We
were but visitors there for an hour or two in the day,
but our allies held the place, and it seems little short
of a miracle that a thing so obvious should have re-

THE AUCTION. 293

mained solong nndisoovered, bat most unacooantable
things do sometimes happen. Great was the excite-
ment when it became known that the treasury had at
length been discovered. The French put a guard
over it» whose instructions appear to have been to
admit French officers, not English. A message was
sent to Sir H. (rrant, informing him of the fiict that
treasure had been found. Major Anson was des-
patched to act on our part, and carts, with an escort
of Probyn's Horse, sent to bring in our share. But
a portion, however, could be sent that night, and
Anson was obliged to mount guard all night, revolver
in hand, and it was a work of no small danger; an
attempt was even made to fire the place, anything to
get up a row, and then for a scramble.

This treasure, which of ri[dit belonged to the
Crown, Sir II. Grant undertook to divert to the fund
for prize-money for the troops, and at the same time,
with his usual generosity, he gave up all share in the
matter himself, an example which was followed by
both the Generals of Division. Their sense of the
kindness of their general officers and of the Com-
mandei^in-Chief was expressed by the army in a
suitable present made to each of them.

Every officer who had visited the palace had
brought away something with him as a memento of
the place, and had probably not forgotten the ^ old
folks at home,*' as ever>*one would expect a trophy
of some sort or another. These things were all
called in by the Commander-in-('hie( and ordered Ui

294 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

be sold by auction, the proceeds to be distributed in
prize-money. Two non-commissioned officers were
selected as auctioneers; the prize agents, Majw
Anson, Colonel Walker, Major Wilmot, and Captain
Lumsden, in a few days arranged everything ; a few
articles were returned to each officer at a valuation,
if he chose to take them, and everything else was
ticketed for sale.

There was the usual amount of amusement that an
auction affords when everyone knows everyone else;
it went off very merrily, and though the things ap-
peared to sell for very high prices, still they did not
reach anything like the value they would bear in
Europe, Ten, twenty, or thirty pounds for a piece
of gadestone, a bowl, or a cup, perhaps, was nothing
extraordinary ; enamels, too, were in request, and as
one gallant officer was understood to have an un-
limited commission firom Baron Rothschild, you may
suppose that there was a good deal of competition,
and fiir dresses were sold from ten pounds up to fifty.
The rolls of silk which had been taken fiT>m the
store-rooms were assorted in lots, an imperial yellow
or a silk of more than ordinary value was placed in
each, and I know I paid twenty pounds for one lot
because there was a piece of white crape in it But
there was a satisfaction in knowing that the money
which you paid was not lost to you altogether, the
soldiers got two-thirds of it, and the remainder went
to swell your own prize fund, which after all did not
amount to much, a field-officer got altogether about

ANTUru OATE. 295

fifty pounds, and other ranlra in proportion, bat then
it was made doably valnable by being paid down on
the spot Some received the shoes of silver taken
from the treasory, weight for weight, instead of dol-
lars ; while others had some hundreds of dollars to
pay, having swallowed np prize-money and all the
rest by sporting bidding for ** cnrios ** at the sale.

The said ^ flmighty dollar ** was ^ Mmighty scarce,**
it was all very well to say that yon had so many
months' pay, the question was, how were you to get
it ? The military chest had not been broi^t up, and
there was no money to be had. At length some dol-
lars arrived at the commissariat from Tien-Tsin, and
we got a driblet of what was due to us, and of coarse
rashed frantically into Pekin, for the city was now
open, and spent it all in curios and in furs. I am
sure that you must be anxious for a ride throngh
Pekin ; I was very much so before I had been there.
So come along. Let us order the horses ; bring your
revolver, it is always safer to do so ; a stick is a good
thing to have, or the Chinese policeman's baton, a
long-hLshed whip, and if you muster a party of five
or six so much the better, for we have heard a great
deal from time immemorial of the jealoiLsy which the
inhabitants feel as to the entrance of strangers into
their town.

We enter, of course, by the Anting Gate, in our
own possession ; this gate is double and well capable
of defence; inside the first gate there is a quad-
rangular space about one hundred and fifty yards

296 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

square ; to the left is the second gate, which &ces a
main street leading through the Tartar city ; we turn
sharp to the right as we pass the second gate to
ascend the wall, and ride up it by a steep paved in-
cline. A vast prospect of town stretches out before
us, but the number of trees scattered through all the
buildings make it more like the " rus in urhe ** than
anything I have seen before. As you fe«e the city
with your back to the ditch and suburb, the first thing
which strikes you is a wooded hill about a mile and
a half distant on your right front ; this stands in the
grounds of the Imperial Palace within the "For-
bidden city," occupied alone by the Imperial femily,
the ladies of the court, and their attendants ; of this
I can tell you nothing, for I was never there, and al-
though Prince Kung undertook to permit a select
few to visit part of it, they never got beyond the
walls. To the left you see the roof of the Confucian
Temple, how picturesque these tiled roofe are with
the overhanging eaves, and graceful curves, not like
our angular affairs at home ; no one could look from
a height over the roofs of the houses in London, and
say that it was picturesque. Not but that I much
prefer London to Pekin, but I quite agree with
Ruskin that our modem domestic architecture re-
quires great improvement In the courtyards of the
houses, trees are planted, a weeping ash or two, or a
large elm-like timber tree, and these overshadowing
the roofs of the houses, and partially concealing them,
add much to the appearance of the city. The wall

TARTAR TOWN. 297

on which we standi what an immense work it is, but
how useless against the weapons of modern warfare ;
it would crumble into powder before our guns, while
ourtliworks would remain comparatively intact But
against such weapons as the rebels can bring to bear
u]H>n Pekin it is an excellent defence, and for my
jxirt I do not see how the rebels can enter the city,
unless, as it Is believed in China now, they have con-
federate's in every city in the empire, and that it
only ncHHls that the standard should be raised and
the gates will fly open.

We all remember learning, as little boys and girls,
that the wall of the city was sixty feet high, and
bnxul enough at the top for ever so many coaches-
and-six to drive upon it abrea^^t, and so it Lh. I
thought at that time that it must be a wonderful
placT, and I formed at once the notion that the
favourite amusement of the inhabitants was to drive
their coachc^and-six all abreast round the walls ; for
what, I arguetl, would be the use of having a wall
u|K)n which thus could l)e done, and not doing it ?
I did not then know that I should have an oppor-
tunity of judging for myself, and cornK*ting in more
mature age the notions of childhood ; liut although I
know now that they do not drive round the walks I
cannot help seeing the coache$^and^ix still, and a
very gay sight it is, much prettier than the real
view. From the gate a wide street loads as
through the heart of the Tartar city, other streets
ec|ually wide crossing it at right angles; the houses,

\

298 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

all one-storied, are not in what we should call good
order; they are shops, with open fronts, or with
windows of close lattice, covered with thin white
paper in the inside. The shops are of all sorts
nearly ; butchers, where you see, as at home, meat
hanging in carcases, chiefly mutton and pork, and
in joints also cut up much in the same way, and I
noticed those two or three graceful cuts which our
butcher at home makes in the skin of the side of the
sheep just behind the shoulder, where the skin has a
sort of red appearance, and made, I suppose, to dis-
play the whiteness of the fett underneath. How did
this come to pass that the London and Pekin
butchers should hit upon the same touch of their
art? Any person who can answer this question
can also tell, I presume, how the porcelain seals,
which are clearly Chinese, came to be found in the
bogs of Ireland.

Then there are the "Chow-chow" shops, where
meat-pies are made and dressed, and very good
no doubt they are, although, not being of an en-
terprising disposition, I never tried them, but they
are very cleanly made; the meat is there before
you, boned and chopped up on a block, or rather
minced, ditto vegetables, and the paste cleanly
rolled, a small portion of each laid on a round piece
of paste, and then the pie closed by pinching up the
sides of the paste into a button at the top, and the
whole then either fried in oil, baked or boiled, to
suit any taste. Next you have a wheelwri^t;

TABTAB TOWN. 299

he its patting a new pair of wheels on a cart There
is no aristocratic conveyance in Pekin, no coach-
and-t)ix, or coach at alL His next neighbour sells
candlesticks of pewter and of brass, which he makes
himself, or rather his woricmen do; they are turned
in a lathe which never makes a complete revo*
lution, but two halftones, backwards and forwards,
and is worked by both feet. Then there is a large
yard and a coal-store. The coal is broken small ;
it Ls hard, heavy, and anthracite, and the dust is
wetted and made up into round balls as large as a
goose egg ; this with charcoal is the national fuel,
and b burned in small earthen stoves ; wood is not
much used, and millet stalks serve for cooking pur-
poses. Then you have a ca]>-8hop^ where you can
get a Cliina head-dress, from that of a red-button
mandarin down. Then there comes a druggust*s
shop, with all sorts of native drugs and medicines,
many of them the same as our own ; you can buy
as much camphor as you can carry for half-ardoUar
in this shop. And listen, there is a smith at work,
and he has got just the same tone in his craft that
the smith has at home ; there are two of them play-
ing away with their hammers upon a piece of iron,
one of them stops an instant and yet continues to
mark time with his hammer by a mild stroke on the
anvil until he is wanted again, just the same sound it
has as in the village smithy in England.

The streets are full of people, men, boys, and
women, but no very young ones ; these are generally

300 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

kept shut up in China, even in ordinary times. The
people are curious, but not rude, the boys sometimes,
as all boys will, laugh at the foreigner, but the men
take no great notice of you ; if they don't get out of
the way, which they are not very ready to do, the
consequence simply is that your horse's shoulder
shoves them out of it, and, perhaps, a tap from your
riding-cane warns them to look out next time. This
is necessary everywhere in China, because their own
mandarins travel about in chairs, with a large retinue
of servants, carrying aU sorts of umbrellas, poles,
weapons of gilded wood, and gongs, so that the street
is cleared at once for the Mandarins, while John Bull^
who is sixteen times as great and as good a fellow,
walks along the street without a soul to proclaim his
grandeur.

John Chinaman cannot see that John Bull is a
great man when he has no retinue with him, so he
never moves out of his way, jostles against him with
his unsavoury person, and naturally John Chinaman
gets the worst of it. But the best way is to carry a
stout stick and raise the point to the level of John
Chinaman's face, take resolute possession of the right
hand side of the road, and point your stick "slanten-
dicularly " about a foot clear of your left arm ; then
if the passer-by will not look out, he gets a poke
in the jaw, or somewhere thereabouts, by walking
against the point of your stick.

About a mile and a half of this street is quite
straight; then you turn to the left for a few hun-

CHINESE TOWN. 301

dred yards, and then to the right and straight on
again for another mile. If you want to go to the
British Embassy, torn down that wide street to
yoor left, and you arrive at it in half-a-mile. But
we go right on, as we are going to the Chinese
town, and turn to the right at the end of that
other mile. Here the street Is broad indeed, three or
four times as wide as Regent'^treet ; there are no
8hoi)s here ; on the right is the wall of some of the
outer grounds of the {lalace, and on the left the wall
of the grounds of a temple ; we ride on to a bridge
over a dry nullah, turn up along it to the left, then
to the right, whieh brings us past the Bas^^ian Em-
bassy, and 80 on, with one turn more to the left, we
arrive in aI>out four and a half miles at the gate of
the old Chinese town : look out that you are not inside
it alter nightfall, for the gate is then shut and out you
cannot get A i)arty of our officers were trapped
thus, and were obliged to spend the greater ])art of
the night in the street, or rather in the sho])s, for
the i)eople were verj* civil to them, before they could
get the gate opened at about three in the morning.

The gate and wall is similar to that of the Tartar
town, nor are you struck with much difference either
in the people or the town. Here is a little covered
in bazaar or arcade, where the best sets of chopsticks
and the best ^ chutmucks,** or strikelights, are to be
had, steel, flints and tinder, all excellent ; ever}^ono
buys them as a memento of ^ Pekin.**

On we ride and turn up a wide street to the left,

302 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

one of the chief streets of the city. Here too are all
sorts of shops, but you find more silk, tea, and ready-
made clothes shops than you see in the Tartar town«
Purs too are to be had here, especially up a little street
to the right there are several good shops, where you
may buy a sable or searotter, or as the Chinaman
calls them, " Deowpie " and ** Ghoulung," up to 1501.,
if you choose to spend so much. Ermines too are
to be had, but you must buy the skins not made up
into coats, else you will get no tails ; the taU, which
is half the battle at home, is flung away by the
Chinese; there are dyed furs too, and tiger-skins,
and the white unborn lamb, which is very pretty,
and a great fevourite with the natives and worn by
the Mandarins, and the grey unborn lamb (or as
some people insist that it is the unborn camel) ; this
is a very beautiful skin, a silvery grey, of the most
minute and crisp curl. I am, however, informed by
the natives that it is the skin of the Iamb of a peculiar
breed of sheep, which are found only in one remote
district in the mountains of Tartary. It is one of
the most valued furs in China.

This street divides public attention with ** Curi-
osity" street, as we have called it,a narrow lane, which
turns off fix)m the broad street to the right, and here
you will find everybody, from the Commander-in-
Chief down to the junior ensign, investing in curios ;
enamels, bronzes, and gadestone form the chief at-
traction. Each shop consists of two or three apart-
ments, running back from the street, the third

BARQAININO. 303

separated from the rest by a small coortjrard^ and
here the best thmgs are to be found ; the least valu-
able being invariably placed next the street in the
most conspicuous place, and the best things of all
invariably hidden away in some quiet drawer, or,
perhaps, in the box upon which yon are sitting,
which, as it has a cushion on it, you take to be only
a stooL If the owner cannot persuade you to buy
anjTthing in the outer shop, every article in which
he asserts to be *^ hondie,** or tall, sticking up his
thumb at the same time ; he takes you into another
apartment, and then a third, where everything yon
see is "ting gowgowdie,** or exceedingly tall, and
up goes the thumb again* In a few days he learns
from us the (^anton phrase, ^ number one,** or, as he
caUs it, "lumbila onede.** He seeks to propitiate
you by showing you a book of most di^nisting pic-
tures, which you probably shy at his head, whereat
he laughs. He, or rather they, for there are from
three to eight men in a shop^ according to its size,
watch your eye as it travels over their shelves or
tables, and instantly detect you if you appear to
notice any particular object ; and if you are the least
impetuous, up goes the price to double or quadruple
what they have asked some one cIhc half-an-honr
before, who was either really careless or more on his
guanl than you have been, and did not permit the
cunning dealer to discover that he was the least
anxious to buy«

Making the sign of a dollar, which is done by

304 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIK.

bringing the top of your forefinger and thumb
together, and forming a circle, you point to a gade-
stone vase or a set of enamels, two candlesticks, an
incense-burner, and a pair of vases for holding
what we call " jossHSticks ;*' he is sharp enough
to know that you want to know the price, a few
days later, and he will say "combieno,** or "my
much," as he conceives you to be a Frenchman or an
Englishman; here he stands before you with both
hands open, and all the fingers spread out before
your fitce and fix)nting you; then he repeats the
same gesture, turning this time the backs of his
hands ; there is twenty dollars, and so he goes on
until he has arrived at the numbers of tens which
he demands, and then he generally ends with a
three or seven, or some such number, to show
you the accuracy with which he has priced the
article.

There are two ways of dealing with him now : you
are quite aware (hat he has asked you a great deal
more than the selling price, although he points out
to you, hanging up in a conspicuous place, that there
is ** no second price ;•* you may therefore, if you
choose, begin by oflPering him about one-fourth, and
so go on advancing until you arrive at what you
mean to give him ; then the proper thing for you to
do is to make a gesture with your right hand, as if
you were drawing a tooth fix)m your own mouth
with considerable pain; this means in China that
you are now offering the last farthmg, and that it

BARGAINING. 305

is like losinjr a t<H)th that you should {dvc so much ;
then make your linal bid on your hands in the same
manner as he has asked you his price.

This is what he exj)eets you to do. But John
Bull has often a different way of debating, he makes
up his mind at once what he will pive, offers it, and
there is an end of the matter. If vou do this vou
will get nothing until you are leaving the shop, and
then he calls you t)ack, and the bargain is made ;
or, perhaps, you are allowed to go away, and wh(»n
he finds that on the next day you make no advance,
or the next after that, he will give you the artichs
unless some richer, or greater fool than you are,
has offered him more in the meantime.

His cupidity, however, sometimes makes him
overshoot the mark ; on comparing notes with Jones
you discover that he has bought something just the
same, for a less price than you have offered, in
another shop. You return and find your friend the
curio man in a more pliant mood ; he has come down
in price, and is ft^rfully disgusted when you offer
him ten or twenty dollars less than you were willing
to give yesterday ; he does not know what to do, so
if you want to puzzle him completely and drive him
half frantic, put your cheek down on yi>ur hand and
shut your eyess that means to-morrow, and then
offer him ten dollars less than you are ready to give
to^y. This will often alarm him, and he puts the
article into your haml If you are not provided
with a liag of dollars he will send a man with you

X

306 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

out of the town to your own quarters for the money ;
he is not the least afraid of you.

Thus were our leisure hours passed while before
the town, riding about the streets and visiting the
most interesting parts of it, and spending all the
dollars that we could get in the various shops. But
indeed the city is soon seen, nor are you long in
making the discovery that every street is exactly
like its brother, and that after having come 15,000
or 16,000 miles you are sadly disappointed in the
place ; however you wiU be able to say that you
" have seen Pekin/' It looks better from the wall
than anywhere else.

An exception must be made as to some of the
temples, which are really very interesting. The
Temple of the Earth is outside the city, and at
present occupied by the Royals and Desborough's
Battery, while its corelative, the Temple of Heaven,
is inside the wall of the Chinese town. Turn to your
right, as you come down " Curiosity *' street, and ride
on for about a mile, and you arrive at a large quad-
rangular space nearly a mile square ; through this, in
a direct line, a paved or rather flagged road is carried,
and leads on to a gate of the city. On your left a
wall of about twenty-five feet high bounds this open
space, that is the wall of the grounds of the Temple
of Heaven ; halfway down is the entrance gate, you
ride in and feel almost as if you were in an English
park; those mighty elms through which you ride,
planted down each side the road, look very home-like.

THE TEMPLE OP HEAVEN. 307

Now for a gaUop on the grass ; away we go, like
men who have not seen a bit of grass like this for an
age, and we make for the great and many-coloured
dome, which rises above the dark-green palm trees
that surround it A stretch of about a mile brings
us there, and, riding up a long flight of easy steiis, we
reac*h a large marble-flagged platform standing nearly
as high as the tops of some of the trees, and some
hundred yards across. On the left another flight of
marble steps brings you to the entrance of that vast
dome-shaped building; the tiles of the roof of yellow
porcelain, and the eaves painted in most brilliant
colours, give it a gorgeous appearance, but the wood-
work is decaying, and grass grows on the ste|KS and
terrace, and it has altogether a dilapidated and neg-
lected air. On the opposite side another flight of
steps leads you through a door. Inside this plac^e it
is clear that victims arc sacrificed. There is an altar,
and a place something like a small lime-kiln, where
it appears that the victim is burned, and there are
meat-safes of large dimensions; but I leave it to
those who have had opportunities of studying the
subject, which were not vouchsafed to me, to explain
these sacred mysteries, at which the Emperor assists
in person every year, and to which these two vast
Temples of Heaven and Earth are devoted. We
rode on to other terratH.'s and other buildings within
this vast iwirk, and left the place, after a long ride,
without having ascertained its extent.

X 2

308 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER XV.

SigDing of the Convention — ^Treaty of Tien-Tsin— Severity the best
Policy — Wintering the Army — The Difficulty solved— The French
retire from Pekin — Lamah Temple — ^The Troops march for
Palechow — Peiho River — Lady Grant — Head-Quarter Staff— EfiS-
ciency of the Staff— Garrison at Tien-Tsin — Severity of the Win-
ter — Conveyance of Mails most defective— Regularity of French
Mails.

The signing of the Convention took place on Wed-
nesday, the 24th of October. There was a large
guard of honour, as some rumours had been spread
that treachery was intended by the Chinese; the
procession marched through a great part of the
Tartar town to reach the Hall of Ceremonies, a not
very splendid building ; Prince Kung was punctual,
and received Lord Elgin, with a sort of sulky dig-
nity, and between the examination of documents,
&c., &c^ a great deal of time was spent, all very
necessary no doubt, but wearisome to those who
looked on; nor were you repaid by the sight of
Prince Kung, with his horde of Mandarins and fol-
lowers, some of them of very questionable clean-
liness.

It is as yet too soon to form an opinion as to how
the treaty of Tien-Tsin will work : its success will

SEVERITY THE BEST POLICY. 309

howeyer, I believe, depend upon the firm front pre-
sented by oar minister at the court of China. Con*
sideration for the feelings of others is a very laudable
thing, but if those feelings are put forward as a blind
behind which to make a covert assault upon our
rights, then they must be disregarded. Now I do
not conceive that the feelings of the Chinese (Jovem-
ment or nation are peculiarly sensitive. Pride and
c|uiet swagger they have enough of; the self-assertion
of that lie that ^^ all the world pays tribute to the
Government of China** speaks for itself, and if we
are to back all this up, and not offend their pride by
asserting ourselves, then the sooner we give up the
trade the better, or else prepare to spend more mil-
lions on another expedition.

WTion the British army was in force before the
city no dog dared to wag his tongue against the
least of her Majesty's servants, those were the days
in which the palace was burned ; if we would hold
any relations with China, we must treat her as if we
had an army l>efore the pates of her capital^ eke she
will forget the fact that we were ever there, nor be-
lieve that we can ever go there again. Pride and
self-assertion in the Asiatic must be met in a corre-
ponding manner; and if from a mistaken gentleness
you yield to him one inch^ he attributes it to fear
and impotence upon your part, and by further en-
croachment at length reproduces hostilities, and you
arc obliged again to master him or else to leave him
alone. Most sincerely do I trust that after the lives

310 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

hat have been sacrificed, and the money that has
been lavished upon this expedition, the treaty may,
to a certain extent, repay the British nation; but
all will depend upon the attitude assumed by us at
first.

The question as to where the army should winter
was much debated before the signing of the con-
vention, both in a military and political point of
view; and while it was maintained upon the one
hand that everything that was requisite for the army
could be procured in abundance in Pekin, others
thought that unless a winter's supply of stores could
be brought up fi^om Tien-Tsin before the river was
shut up (as all our supplies came now by boat to
Tungchow), it would be hazardous in the extreme
to winter the army at Pekin ; and that it would be
much easier to advance again in the spring if neces-
sary, than to provide for all contingencies of a
winter occupation. The commissariat chief, Mr.
Turner, declared that it would be impossible to bring
up the stores which would be requbed in the short
time that now remained, so the more prudent counsel
was adopted of a return to Tien-Tsin,

Opinion was divided also as to the political advi-
sability of a wmter's occupation. On the one hand
it seemed that our residence at the capital would
exhibit our power to do as we pleased in China, and
would familiarize the people with the sight of the
foreigners ; while on the other it was argued, that if
we remained there, we should prevent the return of

THE FRENCH BETIBB FBOM PEKIK. 311

the Emperor, embarrass the existing Qovemment
to a very great extent, and possibly take the last
prop from under the reigning dynasty, and so en-
cumber ourselves with fresh and intricate nego-
tiations. Happily the agreement of the (Government
to our moderate demands solved the difficulty.

Lord Elgin, however, determined to reside for the
remainder of his stay inside the city, and a residence
having been provided for him, he took up his abode
there on Saturday, 27th of October, and remained
there until Friday, the 9th of November, when he
left for Tungchow to proceed by boat to Tien-Tsin.
Nothing could be more tranquil than the town ; one
or two companies of infantry formed Lord Elgin's
guard, and he rode through the town, as did every
one else, unattended and unmolested.

The French convention having been signed in
similar form to ours, they began to move away their
forces to Tien-Tsin, and we in consequence conso-
lidated our force by moving up from the first position
which we had occupied near the Bund, and the
whole British force now occupied the suburb outside
the Anting Gate, with the exception of the cavalry,
who were quartered in the Great Lamah Temple,
whose extensive grounds bounded upon the side op-
posite, to the city wall, the great parade ground
already described. Numerous buildings were ccm-
tained within this enclosure, which was about a mile
long by half-a-mile deep, shrines or temples, sur-
rounded by squares of buildings where the priests

312 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

resided ; some of these temples had an upper story,
and in manjr of them were figures of that disgusting
character which stamps heathen worship everywhere.
The grounds were planted with noble trees, which,
while they stood thick enough to form a shade almost
perfect over the walks, lawns, and buildings, were ne-
vertheless permitted space and light sufficient so that
each could grow to its natural size ; the true secret of
successful planting, which one does not always see
carried out at home. Here the French ambassador
had taken up his quarters ; also a Punjaubee guard
had been placed over some of the buildings, as they
were supposed to contain some silver and enamels.

The great feature of the Temple was the monument
to the Lamah of Thibet^ which was without exception
the grandest and most beautiful marble structure
I have ever seen. It stands upon a platform of
white marble, of great purity, which is ascended by
flights of steps. The monument is of the same stone,
some forty feet in height, and of perfect proportion ;
it is covered with rich sculpture of animals and
imaginary Chinese monsters, and is surmounted by
a gilded capital, which towers over the surrounding
trees, and is seen as a land-mark for some miles
round.

The weather was now cold and often dreary;
there was nothing more to be seen or done, and we
were all anxious for Mr. Bruce*s arrival, which was
to be the signal for our departure. On Monday the
5th of November he came, having ridden up, without

orriccBs: rAini's uoebk.

To fact PoQt 3ia.

THK TROOPS MARCH FOR PALECHOW. 313

a luilt, from Tien-Tsin, lie was introduceil to Prince
Kung, who apiR^ars to have lost some of his reserve.
Visits were exchanged, and all went on as well as it
could be wished ; so that on Wednesday, the 7th of
November, part of the troops marched for Palechow
on their way to Tien-Tsin, and the remainder on
Friday, with the (\)mmander-in-Chief. On the same
day Lord Elgin left Pekln for Tnngchow, where a
little fleet of boats was engaged to carr}* the Embassy
to Tien-Tsin.

Oh, happy ! thrice happy I they who were per-
mitted to proceed home at once, in the seartraversing
ships. With what pangs of envy and uncharitable-
neas did we, to whom a winter in Tien-Tain was
decreed, regard the happy homeward bound* Again
the banks of the Peiho river are all bustle and life.
There are M^Kenzie, and Ross, and Wolseley, and
Williams, all at work in turns, landing stores or
embarking troops ; it is touch and go whether the
la^t of them will get down the river ; it is freezing
hard, but no pains are spared to carry out the Com-
mander-in-Chief's views.

The Hong Kong coolies and Indian followers feel
the cold very much, the btter especially ; they arc
all supplied w ith warm clothing ; but no, they sell it,
or fold it up in a bundle, will not put it on, and shiver
in their cotton rags — so much for the perverse native
of India. The Chinese coolie will put on sixteen
coats all at once if he can get them.

The King's Dragoon Guards and Probyn's Horse

314 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

had a very taying march of it, in fix)8t and snow, to
the Takoo Forts, where they were safely embarked,
without accident Nor was it until everyone else
had left that Sir Hope Grant took his departure, on
Thursday, the 29th of November, thus proving that
he was not forgetful of those duties which devolve
upon a general after a campaign, which Lord Clyde
calls " the dirty work of an army."

Lady Grant had come up firom Hong Kong to meet
the Commander-in-Chief at Tien-Tsin ; and, while he
was directing the movements of the army in the
North, her Ladyship was, like a truly good soldier's
wife, looking after the comfort of the sick, the women,
and the soldiers' children at Hong Kong. Nor did
the heat of the climate prevent her from gomg about
herself, and visiting those to whom she could render
any service, considering at once, as every Christian
should, both the bodily and spiritual good of those
by whom she was surrounded. She was thus a most
useM aid to the Rev. W. R. Beach, the Mihtary
Chaplain at Hong Kong.

The Head-quarter Staff left Tien-Tsm the day
before the Commandeivin-Chief to proceed, some to
Hong Kong, en route for England, some to Shanghai
and Japan ; and the majority of them carried with
them the best wishes of the army. Most of the staff
were young men, junior to those whom you generally
see in similar positions ; and a more able or effective
staff I believe it would be difficult to pick from the
British army. And if it is individually a hardship

EFFICIENCT OF THK 8TAFF. 315

that janiors shonld be placed in staff appointments,
which seniors in the army might ask for in vain^ it
is, on the other hand, for the benefit of the service
that yoong men shonld serve in such positions if
their talents and acqoirements render them capable
of filling those posts : because such officers will then
have ae<|uired in their youth that experience which
is usually the lot only of age, and thus be doubly
capable of rendering good service upon a future
occasion^ should their country require them to act
again in a similar capacity.

At all events, there was no one in the force in
China who did not think that Sir IL Grant had made
an excellent selection in the officers who had served
under him in India ; and the manner in which their
various duties were performed proved to all who
had opportunity of observation that he had chosen
well There are men on the list that, if an oppoiv
tnnity of dlstinguLshbg themselves offers at a future
day, will add largely, I doubt not, to the laurels
which they have ahready earned in the two great
struggles in which England has been engaged within
the last seven years ; and there are one or two firom
whom those who know them look for great things
when their time comes.

And now the troops that were left to garriscm
Tien-Tsin set to work in earnest to make themselves
snug for the winter, which had set in with great
severity in the last days of November. Captain
Grordon, K.E., an active and clever officer in com-

316 HOW WE GOT IX) PEKIN.

mand of his company of sappers, employed a large
number of Chinese workmen in altering and adapting
the Chinese houses, which had been taken at a rent,
to the wants of the British soldier. Soldiers' barracks
first was the order of the day, nothing to be done
for the officers until the soldiers are made comfort-
able, and an excellent arrangement it was. The
67th, Desborough's and Govan's batteries, the Slst,
2nd Battalion 60th Rifles, with a company of Royal
Engineers, 1st Battalion Military Train, and Fane's
Horse, were selected to form the garrison, under the
conmiand of Brigadier Stayeley, C.B., who had com-
manded all along at Tien-Tsin. Fane's Horse and
the Royal Engineers were quartered in the eastern
suburb of the town, the Military Train just inside the
east gate on the right, the 2nd 60th in East Street,
right and left. Royal Artillery beyond them in the
same street, 31st in West Street and South Street,
and the 67th in the north-eastern suburb. With the
exception of the Military Train, Royal Engineers,
and Royal Artillery, each corps was quartered in
five or six separate, and sometimes rather distant,
buildings, so that the men suffered, as well as the
officers from the distances which they were obliged
to go in the severe weather, but this could not well
be avoided.

Tien-Tsin is a large and important town on the
right bank of the Peiho ; the walled town is about
a mile square, but the suburb has grown into a much
larger and more important town than the original.

SEVERITY OF THE WINTER, 317

owin^r^ no doubt to the increased and increasing traile
of the phice, as all imports to the capital iVoni the
south must find their way through Tien-Tsin, either
as formerly, by the grand canal, which strikes the
river above the town, or, as at present, along the
coast from the Yangtsekiang, and up the riVer from
Takoo. Between suburb and town it stretches along
the river's bank on both sides for a distance of
about six miles.

Tien-Tsin is a great salt depdt, and from the salt
pans at the Peiho mouth all the interior of the north
of China is said to be supplied.

The river is crossed by two bridges of boats &nd
our allies occupy the led bank, while we hold the
right; their force consist of some of the 10 1st and
102nd Regiments, and some artiller>% commaiidiMl
at first by General Colteneau, but as he unfortunately
fell a victim to small-pox, which was very prevalent
during the winter in both armies, he was succeedetl
by General O'Malley.

At the end of November the winter set in with
great severity ; the river was closed up completely,
and in a few days the sea was frozen for several
miles beyond the bar, so as to prevent all communi-
cation between the fleet and the garrison at the south
Takoo Fort, which consisted of a wing of the 31st«
Some officers of that regiment were very ninirly lost
in a junk, in a gallant attempt to land the maiU
which was lying off in a gunboat, unable to come in
on account of the drift ico. And here I must sav

318 HOW WE GOT TO PBKIN.

that the English arrangements as to the conyeyance
of mails was most defective throughout the whole
winter ; six mails were due at one time. I am not
prepared to saddle any one department with the
blame, as I have yet to learn with whom the arrange-
ment rests, but I should suppose that it was the duty
of the Adjutant-General to arrange with the Admiral
for the landing of the mail at some practicable place^
and that then it rested either with the local military
authorities, or with the Ambassador to have it
promptly conveyed to its destination. Who was to
blame I know not; whether no arrangement had
been made with the naval authorities, or whether the
navy had fitiled in carrying them out when made.
That there was nothing impossible in the matter is
proved by the regularity with which the French
mails were sent from Chefoo ; and it is a sorry con-
clusion to be reduced to, that we are unable to meet
a contingency which our gallant allies can easily
provide for ; that an army of 3500 Englishmen 16,000
miles fi*om home should be left for three months with-
out communication either with Europe or the Com-
mander-in-Chief, while a much smaller force of
Frenchmen receive their mails at the same place, is
a &ct which, until it is accounted for, is a di^race
to us, and is alike a grievance to all the officers and
men of the force, and detrimental to the public
service.

SLEDGES. 319

CHAPTER XVI.

SleJgt s — Horse Marines — Game — Ratiom — Anecdotal — ^The Sick^>
llie Hofiiiitid — Home Memories — The Morals of the Army-— The
private Soldier ^Confectioners — ^The Auction — Cramping the Feet
— Chinese Ladies — Ikv^rars — Charity of British Troc>ps—Tbe
Irishman and the Coolies — Pointed Arguments — ** EngiUahe **
and ''Klenitibe**— **Poko Beno **— A Jeweller— Horses and Races
— Paiier Hunts— Reading Room — "Samsho** — Occupation and
Amusement — Tartar General.

The river was frozen with a vengeance, and a busy
scene it presented. John Chinaman no longer
needed his bridges of boats ; Tien-Tsin, or ** the
Heavenly Ferry," as the name means, now was
frozen together, and everyone who wished to cross
the river walked across. The natives nse small
sledges about six feet long by four wide, which
travel upon two runners shod with iron. They are
capable of carrying two people, seate<l, and a third
who propels the sledge from behind, standing up,
with a stout spiked pole passed out behind him
between his legs. This is the conveyance of the
country at this time of year, and the British soldier
tries his hand at it also ; there he is working away
just as hard as if he was paid for it, whereas he
gives the native a string of cash for the hire of the
^ conveniency ; ** he gives a vigorous push or two,
loses his balance, the sledge goes from under him,

320 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

and down he comes on his back ; never mind, he is
up and at it again.

Some long-sighted individual brought a pair of
skates to the North, and they were soon the fruitful
parents of a numerous offspring; John Chinaman
got them as a "muster" or pattern, and he made
skates just as good ; so did a wheeler in the Boyal
Artillery, and there are a large party of officers
starting down the river on sledges to the skating-
ground, where the ice is smoothest some two or
three miles down the river. Three miles further
down the * Slaney * gun-boat lies, housed in for the
winter ; she got aground just as the river dosed, and
Jack Tar has had to spend the winter nearly high
and dry, but he does not care much ; the deck of the
gun-boat is one long larder, whole sheep, a side of
beef, ten or twenty brace of pheasants, thirty or
forty brace of pintail grouse, lots of wild ducks,
hares innumerable, and a deer or two, are always to
be seen there ; Jack has no need to eat much salt
junk now ; much good may it do him, for he is a fine
fellow. The officers of the gun-boat have become
regular horse-marines, every man has his nag or
two, and they turn out quite the correct thing in
long jack-boots and leather-strapped overalls. Jack
also takes to riding ; now that he cannot ride the
billows, he mounts a donkey, and an attendant
crowd of these animals is always in waiting, where
for a few cash he can indulge in that exciting pas-
time, with a Chinaman as runnmg-groom.

GAME. 321

Of meat and game there is a superabundant sup-
ply at Tien-Tsin ; the mutton is excellent, at from
two dollars to two dollars and a half per sheep, and
this is no doubt far al>ovo its real value ; l)eef at a
similar price, and pork for those who are adven-
turous enough to eat it, but knowing the ha1)its of
the animal and his mode of life in North China, I
question whether I would not nearly as soon eat a
piece of his dirty master as of him.

Hares abound all round the town, and many a
good gallop they gave us ; we have no dogs except
latterly a few Chinese greyhounds, but we ride them
to view with our " bouA-fide's,** (you don't knt )w what
a ** bon&-fide ** is yet, but you shall hear,) and tlie
natives take them in such numl)ers in the country
that they are sold for almost anything that you like
to offer ; the market is overstocked with them ; how
they can catch so many I could not discover, vla I
can hardly believe that the hawk, hound, and gun,
could provide such a supply. They do hawk them,
and very fine falcons they have, and these bother
the hare until the dog takes them, and they shoot
them akK), as you find the shot in them; but
Leadenhall Market cannot boast such a supply as
*♦ Charing Cross " market, Tien-Tsin.

Then, as to pheasanta, ei(^t for a dollar is the
price. Ah ! but they would taste much better at
home at two dollars for a brace. I assure you
they would, I have tried both* The pintail grouse
are a very pretty bird, of a sort of drab and black

Y

322 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

plumage, with a pointed tail, feathered legs and
feet, the toes scarcely separated at all, and the
soles quite hard; these, too, are taken in vast
numbers, and in a curious manner, which we had
opportunities of observing. In the plain which
surrounds Tien-Tsin for miles, I don't know how
many, but as far as you can see, the crafty native
sets his long net in the flight of these birds, which
are going south every hour of the day. He baits
it with a row of blocks of ice, some thirty feet long,
and connecting his net with the string which he
holds in his hand, conceals himself at a convenient
distance ; the birds supposing (I presume) the ice
to be water, of which they are in search, alight,
and are thus easily taken ; they are very good to
eat, and worth about two or three pence each.

Then there is the rice bird or ortolan, very
small, and of exquisite flavour; he is as plenti-
ful as need be, sold in bunches of ten or a dozen
ready plucked, and is cheap in proportion. The
men shared in all these good things to their hearts*
content I remember seeing a young soldier of the
60th Rifles one afternoon carrying a piece of excel-
lent mutton, some three or four pounds in weight,
and asking him if that was ration meat, for that it
seemed very good. " No, sir,*' said he, " this is not
ration meat, I bought this myself; this is for my
supper." But I again asked, ^^ How is it that you can
eat all that along with your rations ? '* " Why, sir,** he
replied, " the fact Ls, we don't eat our rations, we've

RATIONH. 323

got a little dainty like, and our rations is made oat
of them old cows ms nsed to be carrying oar baggage
all throagh the campaign, and we finds 'em a little
toagh and rather strong like now, so the Chinese
eats them and we eats this.**

True enough it was that our soldiers were very
charitable to the Chinese poor; whenever rations
were given out or anything in the shape of eating
going on among our people, the Chinese pauper
got his share. This became quite an institution,
80 much so that the sentries at the comrauoariat
stores had a hard game to play sometimes. I re-
member upon otie occasion a soldier was brought up
for stabbing a Chinaman in the leg with his bayonet
He was a Scotchman, and he had been sentry the
day before at some place where rations were being
given out ; he was asked how he came to wound the
Chinaman ? Ills explanation was this : —

" Why you see, sir, this Chinaman was wanting
to press past me up to the stores, so I told him to
* woilo,* and he would'nt woilo, so then I told him to
woilo again, and I woiloed him that time ; but as
soon as I turned my back to walk sentry again, he
slips up behind me, and I seed him over my
shoulder, so I turned round and woiloed him the
8/icond time, and I thought I had woiloed him then ;
but round he turns again as I turns my back, and
he wouldn't woilo this time ; so I brings my bayonet
to the charge, and then he woilos on to the bayonet
with his leg ; that's all I know about it, sir.** A

T 2

324 HOW WE GOT TO PBKIN.

Chinaman is quite like the hungry Greek, " in
coBlum jusseris ibit"

"Well, Bill,'' said one 'soldier on the main-guard
to another as I was passing by, through the east gate,
"have you got a good dinner for us to-day ?**
" No, that I havn't, lad," was the reply ; " there ain't
nothing but some hare-soup and two or three phea-
sants ; and what's the use of that ? " There never
was an army so well fed as this army has been ; and
the exhausting effect of the climate m Northern
China, both in summer and in winter, requires it
In summer you are sweated down to almost nothing,
and in winter what is left of you is dried up with
cold which freezes the marrow of your bones ; and
if your food fails, or (what comes to the same thing)
your digestive organs become seriously wrong, it is
rare that a recovery is made.

All the sick and invalids had been sent away from
Tien-Tsin before the river was closed, and had been
put on board the hospital-ships, but it was surprismg
how soon the general hospital fOled again. We
imagined that the bracing cold would be the very
thing for us all, and set us up again, after the relax-
ing heat of sunmier; but experience taught us
another lesson. Any weak part was seized upon by
the cold, and it was only the man who had no
such point about him that kept his health unim-
paired. Diarrhoea, dysentery, chest complaints, and
fever were the prevalent diseases; and through-
out the greatest part of the winter we had ten per

liOSPITALS. 325

cent of the force in hoepital, and I was informed,
upon the best authority, that the month of
January at Tien-Tsin was more &tal to the troops
than the worst month in autumn had been at Hong
Kong.

Nothing, however, could be better than the hos-
pital and its arrangements, commenced by Dr. Muir,
and afterwards carried out by Dr. Gordon, who fol-
lowed him as principal medical officer. A large
yah-moon was taken in the eastern suburb, and four
or five and twenty wards were fitted up in a very
comfortable manner, containing from six to twelve
biHls each; and as experience pointed out some
defect, it was promptly and effectually remedied.
Medical comforts had been supplied from home with
a most liberal hand. Milk, which could not be pro-
cured in the country, was freely used in the hospital ;
beer, port-wine, and champagne were always at hand
when neediHl by the sick ; and it will be a satis&c-
tory thought to those at home to know that if they
have had a large bill to pay for this war, the sick,
at all events, have ))een well and liberally provided
for. To the relatives of those who have been doomed
to leave their bones in a foreign land, it will be a
hap[)y thought that nothing which skill or liberal
kindness could do to rally a sinking frame, or soothe
the hist moments by gratifying every little want, was
left undone. And this was not unfelt by the patients
themselves, as I have often heard words to this
effect, ^ God bless the Queen ; she didn't forget us

326 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

this time anyway/' Or, " Boys, this isn't like the
Oim^A, where you*d lie may be a whole day, and
never get more nor a dhrink of the black water"
(black standing for plain, unmingled).

Newspapers had been sent out also by every mail
for the use of the sick, and most acceptable and
valuable they were. No one can tell the avidity
with which they were sought after, except those who
witnessed it ; but by some fsiult or mismanagement
in the purveyor's department at Hong Kong, they
were not forwarded to the North after the month of
November, and their want was much felt Officers,
however, contributed fix)m their small libraries, and
I supplied some books that were at my disposal, and
thus a certain amount of reading was found for the
men.

As the spring opened, and the weather grew warm,
the convalescents were sent out to drive in spring-
waggons ; and if there was a race-meeting going on,
or soldiers' games, you were sure to see these poor
feUows looking on ; and right pleasant it was to see
a &ce wasted, wan, and worn by months of constant
suffering, flush with the little excitement, after the
dreary monotony of the sick ward.

Little do civilians know how many tender feelmgs
are concealed under the breast of a soldier's tunic;
how much gentleness and goodness of heart are
covered by that off-hand and sometimes rough man-
ner. But see one poor fellow, weak and ill himself^
watching by the bed of a comrade, more heavily

HOME MEM0RIS8. 327

afl9icted; see how tenderly he smooths the pillow,
laises the aching head with almost a woman's care,
bears with all the querolons complaints that are
made against him while he is doing his best, and
forgets his own ailments in his anxiety to ease the
sufferings of another, and assumes a cheerfulness,
which he is fiBtr from feelmg, in order to try and
make his comrade think the less of his own woes ;
and if next day Jack is a little better, Bill*s baro*
meter rises at once in proportion, and, before you
have time to inquire, he anticipates you with the
good news, ^ Oh I he's a deal better to-day, sir; he
slept some last night, and he ate a ^hegg' this
morning ; hell come round again soon now.**

Or, if chancing to ask some question which relates
to home, or recalls the hamlet from which the band
and gay colours and the wily old recruiting ser-
geant tempted the youth, who has now become al-
most an old soldier, often have I seen a tear start
unbidden into the eye and trickle down the sun-
burnt, furrowed cheek. And I have felt that what-
ever a soldier's life may have done to harden and
dull the finer, softer feeUngs of our nature, it has
also its discipline for good, and that there is many
and many a one who has been improved by it, even
if some should have found their road to ruin in that
path, who would have found it under any circum-
stances, only perhaps not quite so fi&st

I am persuaded that great misapprehensions pre-
vail at home in civil life with respect to the tone of

328 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

feelings and of morals both among officers and men
in the army. Paterfamilias thinks that the officers
of the 250th, quartered in the town, are a set of rare
wild young dogs, and that if " Tom " should come
to know them it would be a great misfortune, for he
might be asked to dine at mess (Tom is such a plea-
sant, gentlemanly fellow), and then he would pro-
bably be induced to play high, and would be sure
to come home " screwed *' at the very least The
dear old gentleman does not know that to be
" screwed " is considered a disgrace in the army now-
a-days ; and that if an officer gave way to such habits
he would be forced at least to exchange or sell, and
would most probably lose his commission ; and that
high play is put down with determination both by
commanding officers and generals.

Sixpenny or shilling whist will not injure dear
Tom's pocket or morals much, and that is what he is
most likely to be invited to. No, my dear sir, your
son is much more likely to meet with bad company,
and contract bad habits in a smaD coterie in civil
life, or in his club, where there is no supervision
exercised by seniors, no " esprit de corps," no pub-
lic character, which all feel must be supported,
and which the senior officers are determined to
uphold.

Yes, but Mrs. Grundy is convinced; she never
dined at a mess, Heaven forbid ! (I think the mess
would say so too, she is not likely to get a chance.)
How could you ask such a question ? Because, my

MORALE OF THE ARMT. 329

dear lady, I have met some of the most elegant
women in the world at dinner at a r^mental mess,
ladies whose acquaintance yon would be rather proud
of than otherwise. She is convinced that a conver-
sation at a moss table is something very shocking,
not of course when ladies might happen to be there
upon some rare occasion, but as a rule very bad, low,
and full of cursing and swearing.

You are quite mistaken, my dear madam; it
is true indeed that Ensign Snooks has brought
some bad habits with him from the Dep6t Batr
talion, where he has been without restraint, ming-
ling with other boys fresh from school; his bad
language he picked up most probably at Doctor
Meeks select academy, "for the reception of a
limited number,** &c^ &c^ where his anxious mother
sent him, for he would go into the army, and the
Depdt Battalion has not improved him (I wish
there were no such things as Dep6t Battalions) ; but
wait for a year or two, and you will be astonished
to find how much Snooks is improved, his regiment
will " lick him into shape ;** he is not a very promis-
ing subject, but he will learn to show his manhood
in some other way than by the use of bad language,
and he will discover that conversation which is not
fit for ears polite is not considered good taste at a
mess table. There are black sheep everywhere, but
if one of this colour finds his way into a regiment, he
is more quickly discovered, and made to change his
tone, than he would be anywhere else ; or fitiling that,

330 flow WE GOT TO PEKIN.

he is safe to be put into Coventry or something very
like it, and ^^ got rid of" as soon as possible.

Military men live more in public than other men
do, and thus the faults of the few are sometimes
attributed to the many, but the habits of sixty years
ago are no more preserved in the army of the present
day, than they are in private life. Major Rattler, of
the 41st light Dragoons, that exceedingly fiast corps,
is a much better conducted man than your grand-
father the banker was, my dear Mrs. Grundy, and he
would no more tolerate at his mess the scenes which
used to occur nightly at your grand&ther's table than
that most sober of mortals, your own Grundy, would
tolerate them now.

Then as to the private soldier and the non-com-
missioned officers, it is only by good conduct that
the private can be advanced ; he knows this, and he
knows that he is sure of " a rise " if he deserves it
Here then is at once a strong motive for steadiness and
propriety, which you do not meet with in private life.
Who can ensure promotion to the journeyman boot-
maker if he is sober and well conducted ? and the
same steps which raised the private by degrees to
be, perhaps, Serjeant-Major of his regiment, can alone
preserve for him his rank, with its emoluments and
immunities. There is a direct help to virtue in ihe
army, " sentence against an evil work " is execated
with mudi greater speed and certainty there than
among civilians. Compare the petty tradesmen of a
large town, or the younger labourers in a country

THE PRIVATE SOLDIER. 331

village, as to their moral o(mdact» why the soldier
cannot do what the other may do» and very often
does, every week of his life.

" Why were my boots not sent home yesterday ?"
Your bootmaker tells you that this is only Tuesday
morning, and but very few of his workmen have
come back as yet to their work, having, as is usual,
been drinkmg since Saturday night A soldier can-
not live that sort of life, even if he would. Recol-
lect too m every judgment that you form of soldiers,
that they are generally taken from the least orderly
walks of life ; and that it is for the most part the
wildest and most adventurous spirits who find a
charm in the idea of a soldier*s life ; recollect too that
they are, while subject to many wholesome restraints,
without many of those gentler and better mfluences
which their brothers in civil life, may enjoy, long
after they, poor fellows I have nothing but the rules
of the service to guide them.

The main streets of the town of Tien-Tsin are
occupied by the usual amount of shops chiefly for the
sale of ^ chowchow,** that is, food of various sorts.
Butchers and cookshops abound; then there are
fruiterers, these are very nice shops, the various
wmter fruits of the country, including apples, pears,
lichees, and walnuts, chesnuts, ground-nuts, and fifty
other sorts, the names of which I never learned, are
neatly ranged on shelves and on the ground in clean
baskets, and for a few ^cash** (900 of which you
get for a dollar) you may purchase more than yoa

332 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

can eat The sweetmeat shops too are very tempting,
sagared wahiuts are capital, and a new sixpence will
buy you about five-and-twenty sponge cakes, very
nearly, if not quite, as good as^ you get at home,
though sometimes a little " stodgy." What a country
for the youth of England, if it only possessed other
advantages in like proportion! "Pocket-money*'
would be a perfect fortune. But the best confectioner
is in the north-eastern suburb, near Charing Cross, he
has picked up a great deal of English and French,
and is a most popular character ; " walk in, sit down,
have some tea, have a sponge cake," thus he salutes
you as you enter the shop, and he can talk to you
upon most of the ordinary subjects of the day, not
in the " pigeon English " of Canton and Hong Kong,
but with a correct diction ; this has all been learned
since our occupation.

The four main streets of the walled town running
north, south, east, and west, are devoted to shops,
and public buildings. A few temples unworthy of
notice, except perhaps the " Temple of Horrors," in
West^street, in which the various tortures which are
supposed to be awarded to persons guilty of various
crimes, in the next world, are represented by figures
made of clay and pamted. They are not at all com-
plimentary to the softer sex, as much the greater
number of sufferers are females, and the tortures are
too horrible to describe. The dwelling-houses are in
streets which branch off fi*om these, and yon pass
between high walls, meeting every twenty or fifty

CHINESE LADIES. 333

yards with a door, which is kept most religiously
closed, as the domestic habits of the natives are very
exclusive ; they do not seem to place much reliance
upon the virtue of the female sex, and will give you
as an explanation of the custom of cramping their
feet, that it prevents them from straying far from
home ; they do not adopt the poet's advice : —

*' Lei all her wmjB be nnoonfioed.
And put your padlock on ber mind."

The ordinary story which you hear about their small
feet is, that the wife of one of the Emperors was dis-
covered by her lord near the d(K)r of the apartment
of one of the ministers of state, and when questioned
as to how she came there she replied, ** That her ktrgc
feet had carried her there against her will ; ** where-
upon half of each foot was ordered to be cut oflT, and
she, in order to cover her own disgrace, " introduced
the fashion,** which has prevailed ever since. It is,
I think, the most barbarous of aU customs m the
world, and destroys that which is perhaps the chief
beauty of woman, the grace and pot^try of her mo-
tion. These wretched beings hobble and stump
along like 5000 lame ducks boiled down into one,
which, if they were as many Venuses in every other
respect, would disenchant them at once. They have
their toes, except the great one, turned rfrnm, so
that they walk upon the heel and the upper part of
the foot, finom the instep to the toe ; how any nation
could expect the blessing of Heaven while it thus

334 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

destroys one of the most beautifiil of his works, I
cannot understand.

I am wandering far from Tien-Tsin; but whfle
upon the subject of Chinese ladies, I may say that I
have seen some very good-looking faces among them.
I do not think they would be at all an ugly race if
they were educated and were allowed the use of
their limbs; but there is an expression of vacancy
and cunning, the result of their position in society,
which spoils their prettiest faces. And then, when
you see the creature, you know it cannot walk, and
that its legs are like a goat's, and there is an end
of it.

Shut up within these walls they live ; nor do their
lords give them much of their society ; they never
dine together after the wedding-day; the women
live apart from the men of the family, and there is
nothing of that sweet social fitmily intercourse which
is the chief delight of home. The ladies spend their
time chiefly in playing cards and smoking tobacco ;
nor is it the delicate cigarette in which they indulge,
but the pipe, — ^yes, the same as the man's pipe, a
small brass or silver bowl, a long, thin stem, and a
gadestone mouth-piece or else an onyx one.

Whenever you go in the town you meet a num-
ber of beggars, and that of all sorts, — lame, blind,
and diseased in every possible way ; and the great
majority of them are no doubt professionals. The
rich people in the town have some charitable institu-
tions in which the poor are provided with bread.

CHARITY OF BRITISH TROOPS. 335

clothing, and coffinsj but still there appears to be a
mass of unrelieved distre&s. The officers and sol-
diers of the garrison collected the sum of 150/. at
Christmas for the poor of the town, and announced
that it was given in honour of that festival. The
Chief Magistrate promised, through the Consul, that
he would recommend the most deserving objects of
charity, and a day was fixed for the distribution of
the money at the church ; but on the previous day
he announced that he could not undertake the re-
commendation of paupers, as his house would l>c
beset by an unruly crowd, and suggested that the
funds should be handed over to the existing Chinese
charities. This, however, the committee determined
not to do, as they had no fiiith in the honesty of the
managers. They were, therefore, driven to distri-
bute their fund (to which Admiral Hope had libe-
rally added 50/. unsolicited) on their own renponsi-
bility, and they postetl a placard inviting pauper
women of fifty years of age, and the blind of both
sexes, to present themselves at the church (a Confu-
cian temple) on a given day, when, notwithstanding
a strong guard of soldiers and of Chinese police, some
unfortunate women, who could not stand on their
wretched *^ small feet,** were absolutely trampled to
death by the crowd.

The charity of the British troops, however, so fer
from decreasing the number of paupers in the town,
appeared only to augment them, and everywhero
you were beset by the cries of ** Chowchowah,

336 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

cashah, sheliung sheliung, chowchowah" (food, food,
money, cold, cold, food) ; but you had the satis&c-
tion of seeing that many of these supplicants were
in very good case.

The coolies are a most industrious race, and work
hard, as porters and water-carriers, through the sum-
mer's sun and the winter's cold. I have often seen
them panting, and almost staggering along, under a
wheel-barrow which would carry almost a horse-
load, and perspiring freely on a cold winter's day,
though stripped to the waist These wheel-barrows
are of an excellent make. They are like an Irish
jaunting-car, with one large wheel in the centre, and
the load is placed at the sides, and by this means
the weight of the burden is thrown upon the wheel ;
a boy, or sometimes a donkey, assists, in tracing, in
front All the water used in the town is carried
from the riyer thus, and in pairs of buckets hanging
from a bamboo across the shoulder. All merchan-
dise, including ftiel, is carried m the same way. So
that the industrious coolie population has an abun-
dance of employment

Talking of cooUes, I bad an increasing source
of amusement during the campaign in the conver-
sations between an Irish soldier and the Hong
Kong coolies, two of which were supposed to be
in my employ. He and the two coolies Uved a
good deal together, and in general their quarters
were quite near enough to me to enable me to hear
the discourse of Paddy. He appeared to think that

IRISHMAN AND THE COOLIES. 337

the employment of those words so common in the
flOQth^ « you savey,** was a sort of talisman wherewith
to reach the Chinese mind, and formed a perfect
nmning commentary (in Chinese) upon the (other-
wise obscore) English text, so that if his discourse
was plentifully interlarded with "you savey** no
Chinaman, however duU, could miss of his meaning.

Imagine him and the two ugliest coolies in the
army (and none of them are handsome) seated at
the midday meal, a dish of meat and a dish of sweet
potatoes or yams on the table (or its substitute)
before them, Paddy (loquitur) : " Do you call thim
potaties" (contemptuously); **you never was in a
place called Ireland, you savey, bccasc, if I had you
there, Fd show you what potatios is, you savey.
Pure the people has to live on potaties in Ireland —
that*s where I come from, this piecey man, you
savey ; — ^but sure no one could live on the likes of
them, you savey. It's all very well for you now,
you savey, becase you get mate every day for your
dinner, you savey, number one chowchow, you savey,
that's becase you're at war now, you savey, with the
Emperor of Churn, this piecy country, you savey,
and the innimy has to feed you, you savey, but
if you were at pace, and livin' quiet and aisy at
home in your little bit of a cabin in Ireland, you
savey, do you think you'd get mate for your dinner
then every day ? Oh, divel a bit, you savoy."

So the bithful Paddy would db*(M>urse his cHK)Iies
for hours, eliciting an occasional grunt, not that they

338 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

understood one word he said, bnt jnst as well pleased
with his audience and himself as Dr. Gumming at
Exeter HalL They were generally the best of friends,
arid they were of more use to him as recipients for his
ideas than in any other way. Sometimes, indeed,
the coolies turned sulky, and when desired to do
some work, instead of doing it growled out, " My no,
sabey,** which was a sort of refusal under the pre-
tence of not understanding the order. This he would
not stand. " You no, savey, don't you ; well, then,
do you know what 111 do. 111 make you, savey, and
then when I maJce you, savey, youll have to savey
then." He has, since the peace, been reduced to one
Tien-Tsin coolie, who he affirms " knows a great deal
of English." " Sure you might hear me tallrin* to
him every day." Which is quite true I do, and
many a good laugh it gives me, when I am not much
disposed to laugh.

The best shops are to be found in " High Street,"
as we have named it, which runs nearly parallel with
the river in the northern suburb. Here was the
fashionable lounge for the exiles of Tien-Tsin in the
afternoon ; and here several of the Pekin curiosity-
dealers established themselves, having tasted the
sweets of the Barbarian dollar in the autumn. The
street is narrow, and an awning is spread across the
greater part of it You can always tell when there
is any foreigner in the shop by the crowd of basket-
boys that surround the door, ready to carry home
anything which he may purchase.

POINTED ABGUMENTS. 339

You most expect to be well jostled if yon don t
take means to prevent it» as the Chinese here have
no idea of making way for anybody. Their own
great people never walk, and their chairs are pre-
ceded by runners to dear the way, so that the
street population have not yet thoroughly imbibed
the idea that ^ a swell ** can walk at all, although
we tried all winter to drive it into their heads,
and that with very pomted arguments. It is neces-
sary to carry a stick ; and so to carry it, that if
a Chinaman chooses deliberately to walk against
yoti, he also walks his own tacQ against your cane^
and however much his self-sufficiency might be
gratified by the former, he would hardly' like the
latter — a very pleasant thing, no doubt, for the Celes-
tial to feel that he has asserted his superiority over
the Barbarian in a quiet manner, by not making
way for him, but not an unmingled pleasure when
he acquires along with it a poke m the head ; he will
not jostle you again ; and thus you have the satLsfiic-
tion of feeling that you have taught one disciple of
Confucius a lesson which he never learned before,
and have contributed your mite to impress upon the
Asiatic mind the fiau^t that, when the European re-
quires it, he must, as the negro melodist so poetically
remarks, " get out of the way."

I know that this is treason in certain quartern,
and that the correct thing is alwa>^ to make way for
the Chinaman, and never to allow him to walk
against your stick, but always to leave your stick at

z 2

840 HOW WE GOT TO PBKIN.

home ; but I confess that I am not enoi^h ^ilightr
ened as to " our Chinese policy " to appreciate the
idea that we are first to pay millions for the privi^
lege of establishing the &ct that we are nationally
superior to the Chinese, and capable of enforcing
our just demands, and then to do our utmost to
wipe out this impression by "kowtowing" indi-
vidually to every Chinaman we meet in the street

In the curiosity-shops much the same scene ia
enacted as at Pekin; but a decided prderence ia
given to the " Engilishe" over the " Flenishe." The
Chinaman is not yet quite sure which is one and which
is t'other, so he asks you " Engilishe ? '* if you affirm,
he immediately says " Gow-gow,** and holds up his
thumb, " Engilishe ting gow-gowdie ; *' if you say
" Flenishe," he says " ah," and proceeds to business.
His experience, no doubt, is that John Bull has
more dollars, and parts with them more freely, and
perhaps, also, there is a little gentle force used by
the Gaul in making his bargain, which we never us&

The shopkeepers are civility itself, and the best
feeling prevails upon both sides, we being quite con-
scious that we are doney yet contented so that we get
what we want, and pass a dull hour or two in spend-
ing our money.

On the right, as you go down High Street, lives
old " Poco Beno," as we call him, from his frequent
use of the words, which signify in his language that
your offer for his goods is not sufficient He deals
in ftirs. You cannot pass his door any day, if you

« POKO BENO.- 841

are a customer, without going in* Toa are aalated
by him, his son, and his grandson with such a flow
of ^ dun-chins^ that yon must go in, if onl j for polite*
ness. Tea is produced, and yon oflTer him a cheroot,
which he tries to smoke, bat it is too many for hinu
He is a very handsome old man, with a nose alm^ist
aqniline, a rare feature in China. You do not pf;r«
haps want furs, but out of idleness ask the prir:e
of one or two, and are answered in the usual way
upon the fingers, unless you have ^studied the lan«
guage,** and know the numerals. He aeks 160 dol*
lars, and you offa* him 10 by way of a beginning;
he almost goes into a fit as he throws him.%4f back
and calls out "^ Poko Beno, Poko Bin^" You lor>k
unconc^ned ; and before you leave the shop, having
drank your tea, and advanced a few dollars at a
time, you draw a tooth, and offer him 20 or 25 dol-
lars, never believing for a moment Uiat he will take
it, when, just as you are stepping into the street, he
calls out that your offer is accepted, and yon walk
home, and boast of your bargain, whif^h you did not
in the least want

Numbers of gadestones and enamels found their
way bom the Ewen-ming-Ewen down to Tien-THin,
and were exposed for sale in the shops ; at first the
vendors strenuously denied that thene articles had como
from the palace, but they soon found that we were
not to be deceived, and made no further secret of the
matter, and only laughed when we told them that
they would have their heads cut off if these things

342 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

were found with them, as a proclamation had been
issued from Pekin, threatening with death any person
who exposed imperial property for sale. This threat,
however, had no effect, as, although when we first
came down from the capital the natives would kow-
tow to a piece of imperial silk which a Sikh carried
in the street, and hustle you and it out of the house
if you brought it in, after a time they appeared to
become familiar with the idea, yet still they would
sell such an article for less than its value, and appear
rather glad to get rid of it.

Fur shops and curiosity shops were the rage for
the winter, but as spring came on every one appeared
to have bought as much as he could bring home, or
as much as he wanted, and a fresh excitement was
required ; so some one found out a jeweller, and gold
rings were made from patterns, by men who never
made a ring befora Then a simple massive chain
appears, and everyone goes in for those, only the gold
is so pure that they are too soft ; never mind. Then
gold charms of all sorts, English and Chinese, sQver
cigar cases and snuff-boxes, cups, stick mountings,
everything in short that could be made of gold or
silver, until the native mind was almost bewildered
with the multiplicity of articles it was called upon to
conceive and execute. You had ordered your two
cigar boxes and a gold chain fully a fortnight ago ;
you had called about them every day, and had been
told in so many days to call again ; at last it came
down to " mingtein " (to-morrow) ; you arrive, having

HORSES. 343

nearly burst your pockets with the dollars to pay
for them, when, with a mefol fitce, the jeweller tells
yon that they have all ^ woilahd,** and by signs as to
some pecnliarity of dress or manner, he makes yon
understand who it is that has taken them ; and yon
discover that your bosom friend, finding them finished
in the drawer that morning, has taken them and paid
for them* You go and remonstrate, but he only
laughs at you, and tells you that he will value them
the more for your sake, and adds insult to injury by
reminding you that you will have all the summer to
get others, whereas he (lucky dog, how you hato
him I) is going home by the next mail, and if he had
not got them must have gone without I think I
should know almost any officer of the Tien-Tsin
garrison by a glance at his watch-chain.

But the great excitement, of course, here, as every-
where else, was horses and the races. Imagine how
insane the ensigns must have become when each of
them could purchase and keep his stud of two or
three horses without anything extra in the way of
expenditure. Yes, imagine, oh ye loss fortunate ones I
buyng Arab horses fresh from India for 12,v. lUL
each, or about eight pounds the dozen ; fiincy living
in a land where that could be done, and where you
could keep him for about 2s. (k/L per week on giKxl
hay and com. But you want to hear this explaininL
You must know then, that when the King*s DmgDon
Guards, and Probyn*s Horse, and several liatteric^ of
Artillery were ordered back to India, it was not

344 HOW WE GOT. TO PEKIN.

deemed worth while to ship any but the very best of
their horses, and thus a large number of very good
horses were placed at the disposal of the commisr
sariat

Besides these, just at the conclusion of the war,
several ships arrived at Takoo with remounts fbom
Bombay, which would have been most necessary
if we were to have another campaign, but, as it
turned out, were not wanted. It would not pay to
send them back agam, so they must be sold at any
sacrifice. The sale included a large number of ponies
and mules which, the commissariat had taken in
the country on our march to Pekin ; in fiwjt, every
animal that we had in China was sold that could
possibly be spared firom the service, and a great day
it was for the subalterns. Despite of cold and sleety
there they were buying their studs day after day,
and if to-day's purchase could not " go in good form,"
or " was not likely to do the trick,** or " turned out a
bad fencer," he was put up again to-morrow, and a
Chinaman bought him perhaps for three dollars in*
stead of four, his original price, and Tomkings got a
another ; he lost a dollar to be sure, but 4s. 6d was
not much to lose in a horse, when you have made up
your mind that he does not suit you.

Then when the studs were complete, and no more
" bona fides " to be sold (as these horses were called^
from having been " bona fide " bought at the Govern-
ment sale to distinguish them fix)m chargers brought
from India or elsewhere), the getting into condition

PAFE2 ElT^S. ^45

and the truning gare greu occ=p&:5:c » it^ FiLOil-
tern's mind ; there was Tasi cor.jftrrr -:^ ui^i^ zA
trials, strictly private, azid t^Ik a:»=x dtzk L:g^
and all Boats of stablt^^uk — %b^ a o^v^ cr tw-j,
and a Tien-Tsin auiTuija iir^tJLz Sucxwl^s^ a>.*il
Christmas.

A fine, healthr, maxJr air.Tyrtgi f :c Uie jciig
oflkersy and very prc-perij pourcclzied bj ue
brigadier and the sexiior oScers 3. cskTri^'x.

Paper honts were H-o a g?e^ r^f^>:iry:>^ aid tiiere
was a good dtal of t:-«.ii^ as ali* -" ji tlrr o --iitry
is notendoeed, there are L::r.-^.-^ 27avf:T;krL* wL-:h
extend for miles rcKwd tLe ^/w::, ail tlr^e are
generallv fenced, so iLat a r»i *^^iz *• f ^x *
could show scMne 5porL J^n2kr p^^cl-^ if tLrj Lad
any speed (and sooie of tifcia were T<&rT &st;, were
ejccellent for this work.

Bat in spring iL-re waa sr-rije nal f^-xAizz.^.z.z-
There were plt^tT of ijU^^ uzi u.^ 'I^T.- ';Itj wij- to
get the homids ; we were •VrA^ w>Ji rail proirilres
of beagl€S from Shaizbai all tLe wii.:£rr, aid at last
Mr. Llovd, an enterprl-iiz jooig oC5..w of the 67*Jb,
procored some Ctii^^e boci-t, H^:u^\hli.2 like the
Peraan greyhound, or a cr>-r Iw^^ra a pn;. l>^7r.d
and a Sornch cr^!>y. Thfj ran 1^/ih hy •;;:hi arid
scent, and often pall*-d d/^wn the ** wily ot^ ;** ih^ry
ran hares aba, an^l in a pLu< wb-re th^^re was no
society, and nr>thiL/ to'lo li^yoi.d th^ diill rtputiu: of
garrison-daty, sar.h s^p/rt/- w^re ^/ jmiat valr^-; n^ir
were the amof^ement' ^4 the ru' n wv^'-^^^L fine of

346 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

the first things done was to tell off a room in each
barrack as a reading-room for the soldiers, which
was comfortably famished, warmed, and lighted,
and crowded with men in the winter evenings,,
drinking a fabulous amount of coffee, and smoking
no end of pipes over their games (no gambling per-
mitted), books, and newspapers.

Then there was the garrison theatre in a central
place, * The Grotto * in East Street What employ-
ment there was in getting it up, and painting the
scenery I Fane, who is nearly as good an artist as
he is a soldier, painted the drop-scene, a lady reclin-
ing on a couch in an old ^ Baronial Hall ;" she was
asleep, her book had &llen firom her hand; how
much you would like to give a cough, which would
waken her; introduce yourself and have a chat;
but she is sleeping there still for aught I know.
Then the Royal Artillery had a theatre of their
own, very creditably got up, and the scenery painted
very well by Sir John Campbell and a bandsman of
the 31st, who has a most extraordinary talent for
painting, and who will, I hope, when he goes home,
turn altogether into a painter.

We had some plays written for the Tien-Tsin
stage, and amongst them ' The Irish Othello/ The
words from Shakespeare, the music (for it was an
opera) from Christy's Mmstrels. Othello was a
colonel in the Tipperary Militia; Cassio, his ad-
jutant; and Desdemona, the daughter of a Cork
wine-merchant Scene laid at Cork and the Cur-

THEATRE. 347

iBgfa camp* Every one admitted that it was yeiy
clever, but some people thought that Desdemona
really transgressed the boonds of propriety, and
actually had heea gnilty, as Othello poetically ac-
cused her: —

«* It is beeaote, U b becAiiM
She's broke a most important daose
In British matrimootal laws.

Whoop ds dooden do.

Sho now most pay for her laiix pas. •

Whoop de dooden do *

While others affirmed that she was innocent, and
took the lady's part very warmly, calling poor
Colonel Othello a jealous brute, &c^ Ac No doubt,
too, it was wrong, very wrong, of Lieutenant and
Adjutant Cassio, of the Tipperary Crushers, to get
drunk and kick up a row, which he confesses that
he did, in the following lines, to the tune of *^ Kiaa
me quick, and go : ** —

** The other ni^^ht while wa were drinking
We sll got screwed as flies.
We came to blows and foogfat Uka winking.
And I bungtsd up Roderick's eyes.
I did not know the Cokmel knew it.
For drinking was forbid.
When I hesrd his footsteps on the stalrk
And what do yoa think ha did,
He took the adjutancjr from ma.**

But if Cassio does get drunk, does that make the
play immoral, as it was affirmed? Here, again,
some thought that the cause of morality was rathc-r
served than otherwise, because Othello singH, in
chorus : —

848 HOW WB GfOT TO' PEKIN.

** Get oat of my way, Mr. Canio^
Youll soon see if I don't smash yon.
Get out of my way, Mr. Casdo,
Yoa'll soon see if I don't smash yon.**

Clearly showing that dmnkenness in an officer
might lose him his commission. * The Irish Othello/
however, fell into disrepute, and was withdrawn fbom
the Tien-Tsin stage, regretted by a large number of
the garrison.

" I tell you what, Tom,** one soldier-servant said
to another, " * Othello * an*t to be acted any more,
cause Shakespeare's plays isn't moral."*

There is not much to offend in the following
songs, while they give a specimen of the Tien-Tsin
operatic talent : —

OTHELLO AND BRABANTIO.

AsA^NeRy Blis^.

Brab, Othello, low fellow, you harefaoed thief,
You've heen and gone and stab my child,
And I shall die of grief.
You took advantage of her sex.
You knew that she was rich,
And in a pot of double X her senses did bewitch.

Othello, low fellow, &c. &o.

Oih. Brabhy, why pipe your eye, don't you be a goose,

The thing is done, we're man and wife, and gnunUing is

no use;
You'd better far shake hands with me and give up all this

law;
'Tis true you've lost a daughter, but you've gained a i

in-law.

Brab, No, fellow, low fellow, oh you barefaced thief,
I'll have you up before the mayor.
And you'll be brought to grief.

8AMSH0. 34d

OTHELLO AND CHORUS.

Am^Luey Long*

Oik. Tha alderman ha liked me, and I liked his port wine,
And often he inyited me at half-paai dx to dine ;
And aometimei after dinner, as Miss Desdy sot between,
I talked to him of hatUe-fields that I had never seen.

And sometimes after dinnar, te.

I told him how at Badajos I took aa Annstrong gnn.

And how I stormed the great Badan and made tha Bossians

nm.
I told him how hi China, too, as strong as sndent M ilo^
I cot off Sangolinsin's tail and made his army ** whilo.**
Chorus — I told him how, Sto,

Oik. To hear me tell those little fibs Miss Desdy would indina.
So on that hint I spoke and aha declared she would be mine.
Shell have a thousand pounds soma day and Vm as poor as

sin;
She lores ma for tha hrtm Tto got ; I lora her for her Mi.
Chorus — She'U have a thousand, ico*

The men required all the watchful care that could
be bestowed upon them to keep them from the temp*
tations of that most vile of intoxicating drinks^
^ Samsho.** A most powerful spirit, which maddens
as it intoxicates, and in the piercing cold of the
winter, and the depression which always follows a
campaign, it was no easy matter to prevent men from
drinking it : every house in which it was proved to
have been sold to our men was pulled down by the
Provost-Marshal, but still it was sold, and one native
of ** Italy,** when remonstrated with by the captain
of his company for drinking such abominaticm, the
very smell of which was enough to turn you sick,
replied, ** Oh, captain, darlin, did you ever taste it
with a drop of hot wather and a grain of sugar?**

350 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

" The natives,** with their quaint ways and curious
use of English, and French also, afforded a good deal
of amusement to the men for some time : while their
manners and talk with the natives amnsed ns not a
little ; at Charing Cross market the vendor of fowls
and game persisted in calling them " feesh,** inviting
you to buy, by saying " my much *' feesh, " eight
piece one dollar ;** or if he thought you were a French-
man, " Combieno feesh, sacre mille combieno.** The
Gaul generally picked up a few Chinese words,
^hile the British soldier was contented to talk Eng-
lish in a loud voice, or if he tried the other, he gene-
rally gave an English commentary on the Chinese
text Thus, soldier loq. : " I say, my man, there's no
use, you see, in your talking to me, because I don*t
understand your language, but just you listen to
what I say to you ; if you don't bring lots of * suiah,'
that is plenty of water ; * ming tien,' that's to-morrow
morning, at six o'clock, 111 just knock saucepans out
of you, that's all ; now " woilo,' i. e. * go away.' "

The troops had abundance of occupation, the guards
were numerous, and there were fatigues of various
sorts, route-marching twice a week, and in early
spring we had brigade field-days, in the plain on the
south side of the town ; upon one occasion there was
a Tartar general of high rank at Tien-Tsin, he had
been engaged at the forts, and was rather proud of
the honour of having been defeated by us ; and it
happened just then that the Victoria Cross was to be
presented by Brigadier Stavelly to Lieutenant Heath-

A TARTAR GENERAL. 351

ooty second Battalion 60th Rifles, who had distin-
goished himself very mnch at Delhi on several occa-
sions, and had thus reaped the highest reward which
a soldier can earn.

The presentation was to take place in presence of
all the troops in garrison; a parade was ordered
accordingly, and the Tartar general hearing of it,
expressed a wish to attend, which was, of course,
complied with ; and a curious scene it was, a num-
ber of Chinese magnates accompanied him, some in
chairs, with the usual crowd of attendants, and the
General himself mounted on a Tartar horse, while
some of his aide-de-camps rode mules. One does not
expect to see a warrior clothed in blue satin furred
and wadded, down to his heels, and loose satin
'^ dittos,** but so he was attired with his peacock's
feather, &c^ &c^ all complete, and very short stirrups.
Whea informed of the presentation that was to take
place, he at once concluded that the cross had been
won at Takoo, and that Mr. Heathcot had been the
fortunate individual who had blown up the magazine
in the North Fort, and asked if it were not so, and
seemed rather disappointed when he was informed
that his acts of bravery had been performed else-
where.

352 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

CHAPTER XVn.

The loe breaks up— TJnhealthiness of the Climate — ^Brown's Storie
A Pair of Bucks— Policy of the Pekin Court — Home Policy — ^Pra-
denoe-— Campaigning — China open to Trade — ** The War Party *• —
Lord Elgin— The Hospital at Tien-Tsin — Missionary Work.

Time wore on and wearily, oh how wearily I about
the 15th of March the ice broke np, and it was a fine
sight to see it go crashing down the rapid river, and
right welcome too, because now we were to be again
in communion with the outer world. Soon the son
became hot, too hot to go out in the middle of the
day, and then it began to get fittal, and all the dis-
eases that are induced by it appeared ; the hospitals
filled and overflowed, more hospital accommodation
was taken up, and the " healthy climate of North
China" with which we had been deluded at home
turned out to be as great a myth in summer as we
had found it to be in winter. At one period, about
the middle of July, we lost as many as ten men in a
day, which, in proportion to its usual garrison^ is
a number that never has been reached at Hong
Kong. A draft of about 200 men belonging to the
second Battalion 60th Rifles, which had been at Hong

UXHEALTHINE8S OF THE CLIMATE. 353

KoDg ginoe the previous December, or rather en-
camped in tents at Kowloong opposite to the town
of Victoria, lost but one man in six months, and
he had been for a long period an invalid, as I have
been informed. This draft arrived at Tien-Tsin, and
in less than three months no less than ten of their
onmber fell victims to the climate.

The Commander-in-Chief, Sir John Michel, arrived

from the South in July, and upon consultation with

the Ambassador at Pekin, it was determined that

Fane 8 Horse, one battery of Artillery, the Military

Train, and 2nd Battalion 60th Rifles, should leave

Tien-Tsin in the autumn, some for India, and some

for ^ home, sweet home;** and that the 31st, 67th,

and one battery of Artillery (French's), should form

the garrison of Tein-Tsin for the winter.

Great was the joy among those who were destined
to leave the North of China. We would have done
or submitted to most things, short of being tried by
court-martial, to get away.

There was a man in the — th Regiment of the
name of Brown ; ho was a facetious fellow, and the
men of his company were firequently in the habit of
asking him to tell them stories. ^ Come, Brown, tell
OS a yam, will you?"* was an invitation he fre-
quently received. like most popular characters he
was coy, and required nearly as much persuasion as
a young lady does to sing. ^I don*t know no
stories.- ** Yes, you do.- •• No, I don't" " Yes,
you do; tell us about the ducks." *' Oh^ about the

2 A

354 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

dncks, yes: why, you see, this was the very way
that happened.

" I was servant to Captain for a long time,

and we got on very well ; I was very comfortable,
till what should he do one fine day but go and get
married. Well, you see, that altered things a good
deal, for when there's a lady in the quarters she
always wants twice as much done as a master does,
and I didn't like how things was going on ; so I up
and I says to the Captain one day as I'd like to go
back to my duty."

" * No,' says he, * Brown,' says he, * I shall n't send
you back to your duty, you've been so long with
me now/ says he, * and I don't feel as if I should
get on comfortable without you now.'

" Well, that didn't do me much good, so things
rubbed on a while longer in the same way, till one
day there was a pair of ducks for dinner, and there
was a mutton hash, and the ducks wasn't touched
hardly, for the Captain ate the hash, he always liked
it, somehow ; and m the evening I was sitting along
with Elizabeth the cook, and I says to her, * I wish,'
says I, * as I was back again with the company, the
place is not the same since Missis come into it ; bat
the Captain, he won't let me go to my duty.'

" * Won't let you go,' Elizabeth says ; * well, if I was
you, I'd soon make him let me go, and glad enough,
too. I'll tell you what to do,' she says. * You just
take them pair of ducks as is in the larder, and eat
'em up, and you'll be at your duty to-morrow.'

BROWN'S STORIES. 355

" Well, I got the ducks ; I wam't very hungry,
but I at€ 'em up ; I didn't leave as much as would
feed a beetle on their blessed bones; I scraped all
the stuffing out of the inside, lads, and then I left
their carcases on the dish on the shelf. Well, the
Captain, he was always an early man, and he comes
out in the morning in his dressing-gown, to see
alx)ut breakfast *Elizahoth,' he says, * what's for
breakfast? I tell you what, Elizabeth,' he says,
^ I think as a leg of them ducks as was at dinner
yestenlay, if it was grilled, wouldn't be a bad thing
for breakfast'

^ * Ducks, sir,* says Elizabeth, ^ there ain't none
left, sir/ *Xone left,' says the Captain, *why,
they wasn't touched.' *No, sir,' says Elizal)eth,
* no more they wasn't, at table, sir, but then Brown
had them for his supper arter, sir.'

^ Them ducks did the business for me ; Elizabeth
was right, I was bundled off to my duty ftiBt enough
that veiy^ morning."

We would have eaten any amount of ducks to
have been sent away from Tien-Tsin*

•* Thank Providence," said my fnend Jones to
me one day, ^ they never can send us to so liad a
quarter again, and as to sending us further oS^ that's
impossible ; for if they send us any further away, we
shall be nearer home." (Jones's mother was an Irish-
woman«) The prospects of those who renuune<l
were none of the brightest, indee<l ; bad as the pre-
vious winter bad been, great as bad Ix^en the dearth

2 A 2

356 HOW WB GOT TO PEKIN.

of amusement, how much more dull would it be
when so large a portion of the garrison had been re-
moved ; I rejoiced that I was not to be among the
number of those left in penal servitude.

Those who are unacquainted with all the intricar
cies of the politics of the Pekin court are not, of
course, in a position to form the best opinion upon
the subject ; but to plain soldiers it seemed that a
couple of gunboats was all that would be required
to remain in or near the Peiho in order to keep up
our communication with Pekin. In winter the Chi-
nese could not rebuild the forts, as the mud would
not adhere in frost ; and when the river is open they
could not do so if two gunboats were at the Peiho
mouth. Moreover, we argued that two regiments
and a battery could be of no use whatever as an
aggressive force, as they could not march ten miles
out of their barracks with safety. To keep open the
way to Pekin this force was not requisite ; and to
advance, or make any movement, except to hold
the key of Pekin, the force was quite inadequate.
Thus in our ignorance we argued, but *^ Dis aliter
visum."

As to the soundness of the policy which eventu-
ated in the Chinese expedition, there can be no doubt
upon the mind of any one who has made himself
acquainted with the case, and who views it apart
from all connection with sectional politics. We had
been wearied and nauseated by the fitlsehood, trear
chery, and overbearing insolence of Chinese officials

POUCY OF PEKIN COUBT. 357

in the South, &r removed torn the seat of Grovem-
ment; we thought that such vice could not exist
at the fountain-head ; that the spring itself must be at
least comparatively pure, although the waters far fix)m
the source had contracted such evil, and to the foun-
tain of authority we determined at length to pene-
trate; we had no option between that course and
the abandonment, not only of our Chinese trade, but
of the political prestige of England abroad, if not
at home, and the giving up of that mission of reli-
gion and of civilization in that vast empire, with
which we seem to have been endowed by Provi-
dence; that such abandonment would only have
opened the field to other of the European powers
more adventurous and less scrupulous or more fiu>
sighted than ourselves, was apparent

It had, in short, become manifest to all those
whose interests gave them a keen perception of the
state of aflbirs between England and China, that it
was impossible for amicable relations to exist be-
tween the two countries while the latter kept no
&ith, and evaded every obligation, and the former
was obliged to submit to such treatment, alike de-
grading to her own honour, and destructive of her
commercial interests.

The unfortunate repulse which we experienced at
the Takoo forts m *59, much as it was to be deplored
m every way, was however, productive of this
benefit, that it filled the mind of the English nation
with a firm determination to avenge the defeat of their

358 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

arms, and to chastise the falsehood of the Pekin
Grovemment And thus the expedition of 1860,
being quite in accordance with the feeling of the
British nation, the Government could prepare for it
in a manner suitable to our own dignity, to the
magnitude of the interests at stake and the objects in
view, unshackled by party opposition. Everyone
who has been in China of late years, or who has
made himself informed of the mode in which state
craft is practised there, must have learned that the
Pekin Gk)vemment rarely if ever learns the truth,
even as to their own internal aflFairs, from the go-
vernors of far-distant provinces, that couleur de rose is
the only tint they make use of: and if this is true as
to the home policy it is even more true as to foreign-
Such a system occasionally eventuates in the loss of
a head, but then the loser calculates on that, and
playing his head against place and wealth, if he
loses he has simply lost the game; if he wins, he
retains his high position, with all its luxuries. That
we were therefore bound by the motives of the most
ordinary prudence, bound for peace sake, for our own
honour sake, even for the spread of civilisation, and
for the sake of the cause of our religion, to insist
most firmly upon a free entrance for our Minister into
Pekin, I cannot see the shadow of a doubt, and I
believe that this one point would never have been
really yielded unless the Gk)vemment of China had
been taught to feel that it was not in their power to
prevent it.

HOME POLICY. 359

Backed by the whole force of public opinion at
home, our authorities prepared an expeditionary
force, worthy of the nation and fitted to perform its
work, and they may well reflect with satis&ction
upon its complete success. The force was not so
large as to be cumbrous, and large enough to secure
a sufficient supply of troops for at least one campaign^
the country has already pronounced its opinion of
the Commander-in-Chie^ and his success speaks for
iteelf. The two Grcnerals of Division were chosen with
equal judgment, and the former services both of Sir
John Michel and Sir R. Napier fully warranted the
choice, and the staff, as I have already said, was, on
the whole, all that could be desired to secure the
performance of its important duties.

There was an abundant suf^ly of medical men,
under the able direction of an experienced Inspector^
General of Hospitals, and the supplies placed at his
disposal were more than ample for all the contin-
gencies that could arise, and having had ample
opportunities of observation, both during the cam-
paign and in the subsequent residence at Tien-Tsin,
I never saw any deficiency in the medical arrange-
ments or in the attendance to the wants and comforts
of the patients.

Campaigning in a country of whose rcsounx's we
were entirely ignorant rendered the commissariat
arrangements very difficult and involved, as it was
imiH)ssible to know beforehand what it was neceKtmry
to supply, and what provisions we might expect to

360 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

find upon the spot; and it was desirable to avoid
the cost of transporting stores which might not be
required, while it was needftd to provide against every
contingency. That department also was greatly en-
cumbered by the provision which it was necessary to
make for the natives of India who composed sudi a
large portion of our force, and who required, both
fcom religious ^^ views '' and national habits, food of
a peculiar character. All this, I believe, was as well
done as it could have been.

I have already said that the energy and skill of
the Admiral was the admiration of every one who
was aware of the amount of the personal work which
he went through; and he was certainly most ably
seconded by all under his command, while the rare
concord which prevailed between both branches of
the service, and the harmony in which they worked
together, while it was owing no doubt to the high
principle of both chiefe, was felt to be especially
due to the urbanity and self-command of Sir H.
Grant.

That benefits of vast importance to England and
to China are likely to result fi*om this expedition is
manifest. The most fertile part of all China, the
great valley of the Yanktsekiang is now open to our
trade, and already numbers of steamers of light
draught of water are speeding up and down its broad
waters, carrying our merchandise into the heart of
that vast continent, while the tea and silk whidi
found its way before by slow and uncertain means of

CHINA OPEN TO TRADE. 361

transit to the ports can now descend with speed, and
thus anticipate by months the date oi former markets.
The full benefit of this open trade cannot, however,
be felt until some settlement of the great rebellion
takes place, which, unhappily, rages chiefly in this
most important and fertile district

Some part, I believe, we shall soon be obliged to
take in this struggle. If the present Dynasty can
stand it may be needful that we should support it
against its foes, in order to secure our own interests ;
but it may not be impossible that a sudden amp
might place the supreme authority of the empire in
the hands of the insurgents, along with the scat of
government, and then, according to our universal
policy, we must recognize the powers which exist

The latest news which we have received from
China is of the most satisfactory' character. Our old
enemies, •* the War-party,** have been dismLssiHl from
office, and Prince Kung, who has tn^en for some time
our friend, Ls now at the head of afSiirs, so that so
long as the present ministry lasts we may be secure
of friendly relations with the empire, more es|)ecially
as the ^ opposition '* have, according to the n'gime
in China, lost their heads along with their fxists
there Ls no danger of their "coming into jiower**
again in their own permns ; and, unless we beix>me
involved with the rebels, or some unforeseen event
disturb further the government of the country, 1
l)elieve that we may look confidently for the contina-
ance of pcaa' with the empire, and such a peace as

362 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

we have never known before, fraught, I would hope,
with good to them, and very soon to repay us two-
fold for the expenses of the expedition by the in-
crease of our commerce and the stability of our rela-
tions with that empire.

Of one thing I feel certain that the moral impres-
sion produced upon the mind of the country has
been highly feivourable, although our visit was of a
hostile character. The firmness displayed by Lord
Elgm, under circumstances of a most trying and
embarrassing character, must have impressed them
with an idea of our dignity and strength. The per-
fect good fedth which was observed by the Pleni-
potentiary — ^when feith was broken with us in the
most flagrant manner, and all international law had
been trampled upon, as well as the open and above-
board character of all his dealings — could not but
exhibit a picture of truth and honesty to their mind
which must have struck even their fiwjulties, obtuse
in their perceptions.

I have already said that the dealings both of our
officers and men with the natives were marked not
only by strict justice and propriety, but by modera-
tion, kindness, and charity. This was no doubt owing
to the strongly-expressed views of the Commander-
in-Chief; but we must not forget the good feeling
which, I maintain, pervades our army as largely as
any other body of men in the world, when it is pro-
perly called forth and directed. So marked was
this throughout the whole campaign, that some

TIEN-TSIN HOSPITAL. 363

officers of a more severe school maintaiueil that we
did not make the war half disagreeable enough,
and thus our moderation only tended to prolong the
contest.

Too great praise cannot be given in this matter
both to the Commander-in-Chief and to the army,
and the good fruit of such conduct was manifest in
the gratitude of the natives, and the abundance of
the supplies which they brought in. There were
occasions, of course, upon which it was a matter of
necessity to seize upon private proiK»rty, but tliat
was chiefly where no owner prcsentoil himself from
whom it could be purchased. Yet, at the same time
that we respected both their rights and feelings, the
army very properly refused to submit to anything
like undue self-assertion, or what is vulgarly called
** cheek,** upon the part of the vain celestials, and I
have upon various occasions seen with satisfaction, a
Mandarin and his chair overturned in the street,
when he dared to call upon a British officer to make
way for him.

A hospital was established at Tien-Tsin by private
subscription for the natives of the town and district ;
and notwithstanding the arduous dutii^s which they
were called upon to perform in their own regiments
Dr. Lamprey of the tiTth took charge of it, and was
ably seconded by Dr. Young of the fJOth Royal Kifli^
Not to dwell upon the amount of personal relief fh>m
disease (often of long standing, and totally incurable
by native skill), which was thus aflbnled to thousands.

364 HOW WE GOT TO PEKIN.

and every humane person must rejoice in such a
result, the moral effect upon the minds of all the
inhabitants was very great It manifested to them
that whatever our motives might be in our descent
upon their shores, and of which they could hardly
be expected to form an adequate estimate, they were
not unmingled with kindness and goodwill to them-
selves; as such tangible proof of this was given
to them by our unrequited efforts for their bodily
welfare.

That a good foundation has been laid by our last
Chinese expedition for future missionary exertions
in the country I ftdly believe ; a certain amount of
respect for us, which shall render such labours at least
tolerably safe, must be secured ; I think that this has
been done, and all friends to that great and most
important cause may rejoice in the &ct ; it remains
for us now to use proportionate exertions in order to
reap the vast extent of harvest-ground which has
been thus opened to us. And I conceive that no
more fitting thank-offering could be given to that
Great Power which directed and prospered us in this
matter than a renewed and more vigorous exertion
in this great cause, upon our part

I have but one word to say of a personal nature,
and that is to express my sense of the kindness and
consideration which I met with fix)m many with
whom I was brought in contact during the war. It
was with heartfelt sorrow that I took leave of the
Headquarter Staff, my companions during the cam-

THE END. 365

paign; and I found a home afterwards with the
Second Battalion of the 60th Royal Rifles with
whom I lived for nearly a year at Tien-Tsia, I hope
that I shall never forget the brotherly kindness which
I received from the officers of that corps.

THE EKD.

New BcBLiifOTOir Snx^g: Jnne, 1M3.

MB. BENTLEY'S
RECENT PUBLICATIONS.

Austen's (Miss) Novels. A Library Edition. 5 vols. Ten lUnstrationa. 15^.
Andersen's (Hans) Stories from the Sandhills of Jutland. Crown 8to. Ts. 6d
Auckland's (Lord) Diary and Correspondence. 2 vols. 8yo. Portrait SOs.

Vols. 3 and 4. 8vo. SOs.

Anecdotes of Animals. With Eight spirited Illastrations by WdifL 5s.
Browne's (Professor) History of Bonian Classical Literature. 8to. 128.
Barrera's (Madame) Gems and Jewels : their History, Ana, &c. Post 8yo. 7b. 6d.
Bentley's Standard Novels. Sell 28. 6d. each ; claret cloth, Ss. each.

1. RITA : BD Autobiography. 6. EASTON. By the Hod. Leo* Eden.

3. The SEMI-DETACHJED HOUSE. 8. The SEASON TICKET:

4. The LADIES of BEVEB HOLLOW. 9. The SEMI-ATTACHED OOUPLE.
6. TILLAGE BELLES.

Bentley's Standard Novels. Sell 8s. 6d. each ; claret oloth« 48. each,
a. ANTHONY TROLLOPE'S THREE CLERKH.
7. QUITS. By Author of " InlttalB."

Bentley's Family Series. Sell 2s. 6d. each.

Mra. WEBB'S MARTYRS of CARTHAGE.

MlM KAYANAGH'S MADELINK

Rev. C. B. TAYLER-S NOT OF THE WORLD.

Bentley, Tales from. 4 vols.. Is. 6d. each, sold separately.
Bentley Ballads, from Bentley*S Miscellany. Entirely new Edition. Con-
taining the gema of Proat,Magiixn, Lover, Longfellow, Albert Smith, &c.&c. Crown Sto. 6e.
Buckland's (Francis) Curiositiee of Natural History. Ist Series. 6s.

2nd Series. 68.

Cumming^s (Bev. Dr.) The Millennial Best; or, the World as it will be.
Crown 8T0. f b. 6d.

The Oreat Tribulation Coming on the Earth. Grown

8V0. 7b. 6d.

Redemption Draweth Nigh. Crown 8?o. 78. 6d.

Readings on the Prophet Isaiah. Fcp. 8vo. Ts. 6d.

Answers to the Essays and Reviews. Fcp. 8to. is.

Channings, The. By the Author of ** East Lyone.** 3 vols. £l. lis. 6d.
Oreasy's (Sir Edward) The Fifteen Decisive Battles of the World. 8vo.

Twelfth Edition. 10b. 6d.

History of the Bise and Progress of the English Oon-

■titntion. Sixth Edition. PMtSro. 78. 6d.

Chatterton's (Lady) Selections from the Writings of Plato. Fcp. 8vo. 4b.

Collins's (W. Willde) Bambles beyond Bailways. Crown 8vo. 58.

Clifford's Life of the Greatest of the Plantagenets. 8vo. 128.

Cliamier's (Capt.) The Saucy Arethusa. 2s.

Davis's (Dr.) Discovery of Carthage. 8vo. Thirty Plates. 2l8.

I>elany's (Mrs. Mary Granville) Autobiography. Ist Series. 8 voIb. Thirteen

F&rtrait*. £2.28.
2nd Series. 8 yola. Nine

Fdrtraito, and oopioos Index to whole woxfc. £2. lOs.
Dundonald's (Earl) Autobiography. Library Edition. 2 vols. 8vo. Portnits.

218.

Popular Edition. Portrait 58.

East Lynne : a Novel. By Mrs. Henry Wood. Crown 8vo. 68.

Edward's Andromache of Euripides. Used at Eton. A Greek Play prepared

forSohoola. 48. 6d.

MIL BENTLErS RBCENT PUBUCATI0N9. 367

ST0iybody*8 Padding Book. Fcp. Bra 2a. 6d.

Xd«il*8 '^Hon. Him) Antobiognipby of a NftTry. It.

SUia*s '^Hra.) The Mothers of Great Men. Uandaomely bound, for a Preaent
Bouk. OownHTo. 6c.

Chapters on Wives. Crown 8to. 9a.

XU«t*a 'Mrs.) Women Artists of all Agea and Conntries. Post 8to.: hand>

•omrly btiund. 6«.

SUiott'a 'Mm. Dalrymple) Narrative of her Life daring the Great French

RpTulation With 3 b6Mii(hil iVrrtnlU. 6to. St.
Fnuicatelli*s Modern Cook. 60 Blastrations and 1600 Rcoeipta. 8to. 12s.
Cook's Guide and Butler's Assistant Crown 8to. 5sl

Vorster** (Rov. Cliarlen) Btnai PhotographMl : or. Inscriptions in the Bocks of
the WiktrnicM by Um ItrsrlilM who came oot of EfTpt, with pboU»Knpti«, gljpbiJKnplM, and
UUKifcr»|>tiB. Folio £3.3*.

Ouisot** < M.; (ImbaMSjT to the Court of 8t. James in 1840. 8to. 14s.

Pemnal Memoirs. Vols. 1,2, 8, 4. 8to. I4s.eaoh. Sold separately.

Church and Society in 1801. 2s. 6d.

Life of OliTcr Cromwell. Crown 8va 6a.

OayoVa Lectures on Physical iGeography. Bentley's Edition, the only on*

alirldiH Kditloa. PmI 8to. Si. 64.

Graham** ^Col.^ Uistory of the Art of War. Being a Histoiy of War ftom

Um Kvllrat Tliu««. IHwt trro. M.

Qrmy^B (Gen.) Life of Lord Grey. Bwxk 14s.

Oordian Knot* By Shirley Brooks. 8to. Twenty-two Illustntkxia by

TennleU 10«. 64.
HaU, Life of Dr. Marshall. By his Widow. 8to. Portrait 14s.
Hamilton** Payne Collier's Sliakespeare Examinc'd. Crown 8to. 8a
Hook*8 (Dean) Lires of the Arobbisliopa of Canterbury. Vol. I, 8to. 15a.

Vo1.2,8to. IRs.

Hodgson's Japan and Residence at Nagasaki. Post 8to. Illustrations. lOa. 6d.
Hayss's Arctic Boat Voyage. Crown Hvo, handsomely bound, 5a.
Harvey's Hinta to Christians on the l^se of the Tongue. Po»t Sro. 6s.
Irwing's (Pierre) Life of Washington Inring. Vol. I., 7a Cd. To be completed

iD3 vnU.

Ingoldsby (The'. Legends ; or. Mirth and Marrels. Crown 8to. 5a.

bound in calf or morocco, 12s.

2 ▼ols. 8TO, with all the Illustiations

of CraUulMBkaiMlJolin LmcIi. 16c

Jesse's f Hcneagc) Life of Richard III. and Memoirs of some of his Contem-

purmiirs. 8ro. Ite.

Jameson's Essays on Art and Litersture. Crown. 2a 6d.

Handsomely bound, 4s.

James's Naral History of Great Britain. 6 toIs. 5s. each Tolume. With a

Pbrtralt lo ««cli ▼olmiM,
Jenkins's ( Hot. C. ) Life of Cardinal Julian. 8to. 14a.
KilTert's Rot. Fmncis. Life of Bishop Hurd. 8to. 12a.
Kawanagh's (Julia', Bfadeline : a Tale of AuTcrgne. 2s. 6d.
^^-^-^~~-^— ^— ^— ^— The same, bound as a prvtient, 4s.

Lee's ^Br.) liut Days of Alexander of Russia, and Pirrt Days of Kicl.olaji

SnuUHTti. aiuSil.
Lamartine's R<*markable Characters : Kvlson, Boasnet, Milton, Oliror Cmm-

«rll,^te. 1 Tol. IHi«t8To. 6«.

M 'Ohee (Rev. Robert Leslie^ How we Got to Pi kin. With Una engrariags

•nd tSTOft woodcQU. Sto. 1I«l
Kommsen's History of Roma Vols. 1 and 2. Crown 8ro. 18sl
Karsdsn'sDiotiooary of Christian Churehea. Sro. 900pag«a 12s.

368 MB. BBNTLBTTS RECENT PUBLICATIONS.

Malmeabnry's (Eaxl) Diaries and Cozrespcmdence. 4 vols. 8to. 428.

Harkham's (General) Sporting in the Himalayas. 8yo. LithographB. 218.

UacCauslaiid's (Dr., Q.C.) The Latter Days of Borne and Jerusalem. 8?o.
lOft. 6d. 500 pages.

Sermons in Stones ; or. Scripture confiimed by

Q«olosr. Ninth EdiUoD. 4m,

Kaginn's (Dr.) Shakespeare Characters. Crown Svo. 5s.

Maxwell's (W. H.) Erin-go-Bragh : Stories of Irish Life. 2s.

Mignet's Life of Mary, Queen of Scots. Two Portraits. Crown 8yo. 5s.

Mitford's (Mary Russell) Selections from her Choice Poets and Prose Writers,

andMemoinofberliitemiyLife. OownSvo. Portrait. 6b.
Kaidenthorpe : a Novel. 2 vols, post 8yo. 2Is.
Notes on Koses. By Eden Warwick. Fcp. 8yo. 2s. 6d.
Pichot's (Am4d^) Life of Sir Charles Bell, the celebrated Surgeon. Post 8yo. Ss.
Polehampton (Henry), Life of (The Chaplain of Lucknow). Small Svo. 5s.

(Arthur), Kangaroo-Land ; or, life in the Bush. Post Syo,

Yignetteg. 78. 6d.

dilits* By Author of *' Initials.** 8s. 6d. ; or, in claret cloth, 4s.

Bussell's (Earl) Life ofCharles James Fox. Vols. 1 and 2, crown 8yo. 218.

Baikes's Correspondence with the Duke of Wellington. 8yo. 14s.

Beal and Beau Ideal (The). By the Author of ** Visiting my Relations.'* 4s.

Sirenia : a Past Existence. Second Edition. Post 8yo. lOs. 6d.

Bpence's American Union. Fourth Edition, reyised, 8yo. 10s. 6d.

Btebbing's (Dr.) Liyes of the Principal Italian Poets. Crown 8yo. 78. Gd.

Salad for the Social. Contents : Bookcraflr— Money— The Toilette—Pulpit
Pecoliaritles— Mysteries of Medidne— The Hmnoars of lAw—LttroealeB of Litontnre, itc kc
Fq>. 8vo. 2s. 8d.

Sylvantis's Bye-Lanes and Downs of England. With a Portrait of Lord George

Bentinck. Fq>. 8vo. 38. 6d.
Say and Seal. By Author of ** Wide Wide World.*' 2s. 6d. Rose cloth. 3a. 6d.
Smitli's (J. S.) Book for a Rainy Day. Fcap. 8yo. 3s.

Ramhles through the Streets of London, Crown. 5s.

Story of Italy (The). By Author of " Mary Powell.** Crown. Ss. 6d.
Staunton's School and Family Geography. Crown. 3s. 6d.
Simmonds's Curiosities of Food in all Countries. Fcp. 8yo. 5s.
Scott's (Lady) Types and Antitypes of the Old and New Testament Post

8vo. 6s.

Timbs's Aneodote-Liyes of Wits and Humourists. 2 yols. Post Svo. 18s.

Painters. Post 8yo. 08.

i Statesmen. PobtSyo. 6s.

Truth Answers Best. Fop. 8yo. Is. 6d.

Taylor's (Rey. C. B.) Not of the World. Fcp. Bound as a present Ss.
Vonvedthe Dane, the Royer of the Baltic. 2 yols. PostSyo. 21s.
Whately (Archhishop), Selections from the Writings of. Fqp. 8yo. 5s.
Webb's (Mrs.) Mart^ of Carthage. Bound as a present 5s.
Yonge's English-Latm Dictionary. Post 8yo. 9s. 6d.

Latin-English Dictionary. Poet 8ya 7s. 6d. Or the two together,

wtXQDf^ bound in roan, Kb.

New Virgil, with the Notes of Hawtrey, Key, and Munio, Post 8yo.

Ts.6d.

RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.

t

;i

^i

4» ^.^ ^^^^^^^^H

i

fef:;:^'\- J

■:\ '^' *. .'/^ %;^