HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
Photo by}
[ Rawlings.
THE AUTHOR.
[Frontispiece.
HUMANE
HORSE-TRAINING
BY
PERCY F. T:HORN
HUMANE HORSE-TRAINER. JUDGE AT THE NATIONAL TROTTING
HORSE-BREEDERS' SHOW, 1920.
WITH AN
INTRODUCTORY LETTER BY
LORD LONSDALE
WITH 46 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
LONDON: HUTCHINSON 6- CO.
PATERNOSTER ROW
T5
MAIN LIBRARY-AGRICULTURE
DEDICATED TO
TOM EDWARDS
AND THE INIMITABLE
" CURLY "
571J03
FOREWORD
14, Carlton House Terrace,
Pall Mall,
London, S.W.
July 5, 1922.
DEAR MR. THORN,
Thank you very much for your letter of the
29th ultimo, and I hasten to return to you the manuscript
that you so kindly left for me to look over.
I have now gone over the largest part of it, and find
it not only most interesting but exceedingly instructive,
and I am sure that the knowledge it imparts would be
of the greatest value to those who break horses.
Some of the theories are, of course, really acting on
the lines of Sample, whom I knew years ago, and
very valuable these theories are. I think the photo-
graphs you enclosed are splendid for illustrations.
There are one or two points in the work on which
I rather differ, but they are so slight that I really think
ix
x FOREWORD
they are not worth mentioning. The only danger of
such practices is in the hands of those who try to carry
them out but fail from want of confidence and also from
not adhering strictly to the instructions laid down, and
if you get these ideas instilled into a man who is partly
nervous and very rough they are somewhat dangerous.
But then, of course, there are difficulties in all such
books.
Anyhow, I have not the slightest hesitation in con-
gratulating you on the work and the extraordinary
common sense shown and the excellent description you
give in regard to the breaking of animals.
I wish you every success with your book, and also
as regards your journey to New Zealand, where I hope
you may be fully repaid by the training of your horses.
Believe me, with many thanks for allowing me to see
your manuscript,
Yours truly,
LONSDALE.
PREFACE
THE subject of this book has long been of vast im-
portance to horsemen.
I wish to impress upon my readers that this work is
the outcome of much practical experience of one who has
studied the horse and the conditions under which
he is born, reared, broken, trained and fitted for his
everyday life, whether intended for the hunting-field,
polo, racing, show-ring, the farm or the road. It grieves
me when I see horses who have worked and served their
masters faithfully for years, being finally led to " the
Boat/' Surely our Government, in the interests of
humanity, should make it compulsory to have these
poor decrepit animals humanely destroyed in England,
and to prohibit exportation, which, after all, only benefits
callous men who are devoid of all feeling.
I have oft-times suffered at the many hopeless sights
T have seen brought about through thoughtlessness
and ignorance, and I have often felt it my duty to take
up my pen and write something for horsemen to read
that will in the end benefit my favourite animal, the
horse.
PERCY F. THORN.
CONTENTS
PACK
FOREWORD - ix
PREFACE xi
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - xvii
CHAPTER I
The Stable Foreword to Colt-training How to Break a Colt
Confidence in Man Mouthing and Driving in Long
Reins The First Drive in Harness Shoeing the Colt - 21
CHAPTER II
Breaking the Colt to Saddle How to Teach the Colt to Jump - 55
CHAPTER III
" Gee-ology " or Phrenology in Horses The Strait Jacket
The Master Hand The Pulling Rope The Master Rein
The Way to Throw a Horse - 65
CHAPTER IV
The Kicking Horse The Nappy Horse, or Jibber Breaking a
Runaway Horse Biting and Snapping The Rearing Horse
The Nervous Horse Shying 81
CHAPTER V
Dealers' Tricks and How to Avoid Them Type Conformation
Sound Legs Broken Wind The Roarer Unnerving
The Use of Drugs Advertising Unsound Horses The Age
xiv CONTENTS
PAGE
of the Horse Bishoping Yorking The Oldest Horse
The Story of Hollyrood Alice The Way to Shoe a Horse
that Brushes or Clicks The Dragsmen Unveiled The
Value of a Veterinary Surgeon The Herring Head - 115
CHAPTER VI
Shoeing a Vicious Horse The Horse that "Paws" During the
Night The Horse that Will Not Lie Down The Fence-
jumper When Difficult to Crupper The Stable-kicker
A Difficult Horse to Mount The Tongue-loller The
Side-puller The Way to Groom or Dress a Vicious Horse
The Tail-switcher The Use of Gag-bits Irish Martingale
The Over-check The Wind-sucker Stabling Colts
The Temperature The Way to Drive a Puller A
Cruel Twitch - 135
CHAPTER VII
Training a Horse to Perform To Teach High-school Gaits
To Teach a Horse to Kneel To Teach a Horse to Pose
-The Pivot Act To Teach a Horse to Say " Yes" And
"No" Teaching to Jump To Teach a Horse to Stand
Erect To Teach a Horse to Take a Handkerchief out
of the Coat-pocket To Carry an Article in the Mouth
Teaching to Kiss Teaching to Mount a Pedestal
Teaching to Teeter-Totter Teaching to Subtract The
Cruel Practice of Docking - - 145
CHAPTER VIII
The Welsh Pony The Welsh Mountain Pony The Lowland
Pony Satisfaction Emlyn Cymro Llwyd Trotting Comet
The New Forest Pony The Highland Pony The Fell
Pony The Exmoor Pony The Hackney Pony The Cape
Horse The Old Road Hackney - - - 177
CONTENTS xv
CHAPTER IX
PAGE
The Pre-Victorian Coaching Days Joe Tollit James Selby's
"Old Times" Splan's Reply to Archer Personality in
Horsemanship Jesse Beery Everard Calthrop Thelndian
Cowboy The Late Willie Lane -The Likes and Dislikes
of Horses Lord Lonsdale's Record Drive The Late
Walter Winans Lady Dalmeny The Late Richard Bain-
bridge Dr. H. W. Darrell George Warman A Perfect
Horsewoman The Wheelwright Horse-breaker Horse-
men I Met in the Army Driving The Ordinary Careless
Driver The Way to Hold the Reins The Journey Horse
How to Avoid Colic Types and Characters of the Harness
Cob A Drive Behind Cashmere James W. Packman
Jack Skinner The Trotter Mary Shawbay Richmond
Fred Metcalfe The Woild's Champion, Lee Axworthy 195
CHAPTER X
The Necessity of Soundness and Correct Training Balancing
Badly-fitting Harness The National Trotting Horse
Breeders' Show The Rascal Wins the Pacer Class
Harvest Star Wins the Cup for Trotters Prince Gayton
Wins the 1,000 Handicap Archibald by Alvander
Some Famous Trotting Stallions : Their Records The
Improvement of the Welsh Trotter The North London
Road Matches The Tradesman's Champion Welsh Mare
The Dark Horse from Wales The Late Walter Winans'
Harmony and Discord The Iceland Pony, Little Bill
The World's Champion Trotting Pony, Solomon The
Trotting Stallion Neglected Lord French and His Charger
Govair The Midland Buggy Horse - - 231
CHAPTER XI
The American Pacer The Greatest Sire, Peter the Great
Champion Trotters as Sires British Records and Perform-
ances Pony Records Flying Start Records Pair-horse
Records Guideless Records The London Trotting Club
The Colour Question Foals Picture Horses - - 253
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
The Author Frontispiece
Facing page
Colt-training The Confidence Lesson - - 34
The Sluggish Colt 35
The Humane Method of Mouthing - 46
Training the Colt to Unfamiliar Objects - 46
The Old Method and Jaw-breaking Bit - 47
The Indian War Bridle - 56
First Time in Long Reins - 57
The Strait-jacket - 70
The Master Hand - 71
The Master Rein - 80
The Pulling-rope - 81
"Throwing" a Horse - 90
The Horse on His Side, after "Throwing" 91
The Master Rein and Long Reins Ready for Action - 100
The Runaway Under Control - - 101
The Rearing Horse Taken by Surprise - no
The Rearing Horse On the Knees - in
Teaching Colt the Use of the Breeching - 124
The Nappy Horse with Pulling Rope - - 125
The Shetland Pony, "Jean" - - 134
The Nerve-pressure Bridle Capt. Meeke and the Author - 135
Handling the Colt's Legs - 154
Gaining the Colt's Confidence - 155
British-bred Trotting Stallion^ "Lord Hummer" - 164
American Trotting Stallion, "Sir Todd II." - 165
A Robinson Hooded Buggy - 165
Welsh Pony Stallion, " Emlyn Cymro Llwyd " - - 180
Champion Welsh Pony Stallion, "Bleddfa Shooting Star" - 181
xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Facing page
Champion Highland Pony Stallion, " Glencruitten " - 181
The Late Walter Winans with "Harmony" and "Discord" - 234
"George Hummer, " American Trotting Stallion - 235
The Champion Hackney Stallion, Ch. "Albin Wildfire" - 235
The Author Catching a Pony to Drive to Market - 250
"Mathrafal Brenin" and "Young Solomon" - - 251
Chapter I
The Stable Foreword to Colt-training How to Break a Colt Con-
fidence in Man Mouthing and Driving in Long Reins The First
Drive in Harness Shoeing the Colt.
HUMANE HORSE^TRAINING
Chapter I
THE STABLE
THE home or stable of the horse is the first thing I should
like to deal with, and as briefly as possible. Some
horses, like human beings, are more fortunate than
others. Whilst some stables are little palaces in them-
selves, others are roughly constructed and are not
so comfortable by a long way. The stall should, always
be roomy, at least six feet wide, to give the horse enough
room to lie down in comfort. The floor should not
slope downwards that is to say, made high in front
and low down towards the hind feet as it is not the
natural position for a horse to stand in.
The floor should be level, with a proper drain-grating
in the centre of the stall. The hay-rack should be
low; in order to prevent the hay-seed from dropping
into the horse's eyes a net is an excellent idea, and
prevents waste. A manger, of course, is necessary, and
also a small drinking-trough, so that the horse can drink
22 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
when he is thirsty. The most important thing in the
stable is ventilation, and the correct place for a ventilator
is above the horse's head not behind him, as a great
many architects think correct. I have seen some stables
without any ventilation at all. The ignorance of some
grooms is surprising, and when you draw their attention
to it they will say : " We like to see the horses' coats
shine like silk, and you must have a warm stable and
plenty of rugs to keep their coats down." But natural
ventilation is the best for the horse's coat, and imparts
health. They forget the danger incurred when the
horses leave the close, unhealthy stable on a cold, wet
day probably to stand about and take cold. The groom
then wonders why the horses are coughing, and the
following morning he will be seen giving cough-balls
and elixirs. The stable should be reasonably warm, free
from draughts, roomy and clean. If these simple
details were adhered to, then the horse would be com-
fortable and far less trouble to his master.
Having given a brief outline of how a stable should
be designed, I will proceed to the management of the
horse in the stable. By kindness alone can we make
a horse love, fear and obey. No horse was ever born
vicious, and he only becomes so through bad
management and teasing. Horses, of course, differ in
THE STABLE 23
temperament, like men ; some are more teachable than
others. The horse should be at all times treated kindly in
the stable, spoken to kindly and not bullied. Some
stablemen are too fond of shouting at the horses entrusted
to their care, and apparently think it is clever and a good
point in horsemanship to well master the horse by
continual shouting and bullying.
Early rising is the important point in stable manage-
ment. Six o'clock is the best time to open the stable
door. The first thing to do is to go up to all the horses
and see if they are well and if they have cleared their
food up. Water first, except, perhaps, in very cold
weather, when a handful of hay could be given first.
The morning feed should consist ot corn and sweet chaff,
which should be well digested before the horse is taken
to his work. It is a good plan to let him walk the first
half-mile ; this aids digestion, hardens the muscles; and
balances the horse for his day's work. I am a great
believer in the old adage, " Little and often/' If the
horse is fed at six a.m., then he will require a short feed
at ten a.m. ; this will stay him until dinner-time, when
he should have a nourishing feed of best corn and good
clean chaff not forgetting to water first. He will require
a nice tea, as well as his master, and also a feed the
last thing. A great many horsemen feed in for the last
24 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
time at about five p.m., leaving a long wait till the
following morning. If the horse is given a feed at about
eight or nine p.m., together with a rack of hay, he will
always look well and be ready to perform any duties
expected of him.
I do not wish to bore my reader with my system of
feeding ; every horseman has his own way, and all the
reading and advice on feeding would not budge him,
especially if his horses look well. But I think a great
many cases of colic would be avoided if horses were
watered more frequently and fed more often. Patent
condiments I do not recommend, but boiled linseed,
linseed oil, or linseed cake can all be given with good
results, especially to horses in poor condition.
FOREWORD TO COLT-TRAINING
I cannot emphasise too greatly this very important
factor. If the colt is correctly trained, then he will grow
up to be a very useful horse without giving his master
any trouble ; if he is badly trained or broken, then you
must expect to have accidents and broken limbs. Bad
horses are not born. They are made through the
ignorance of self-opinionated horsemen. I have broken
and trained scores of colts of good, bad and indifferent
dispositions, and they have all turned out good, sensible
FOREWORD TO COLT-TRAINING 25
horses. My greatest success is usually with an un-
broken three-year-old ; I can teach the wild, unhandled
colt anything I choose to. My most difficult tasks have
been to handle and train colts that have been badly
handled and developed vices and bad habits. These I
have succeeded in curing, but I have had to use an
enormous amount of patience to make them forget their
bad habits and learn good ones.
I have several remarks to make before I give the
exact description of correct colt-breaking methods,
after which I will explain how I break and train an older
horse with a bad habit, such as a kicker, a runaway, a
shyer, a nappy horse, a vicious horse, a side-puller. Of
course these bad horses would never exist if they had
been properly broken and trained.
I was invited to visit a farm near Ilford some time
ago to handle a three-year-old half-bred hackney filly.
This filly had never been handled, and was quite wild.
The spectators, including the farmer and his family,
four farm-hands, a member of the R.S.P.C.A. and others,
were all wondering how I was going to catch the colt
in fact, they thought it was an impossibility. After
the colt had been driven into a fair-sized loose-box, the
door was closed and I was quite alone with her for twenty
minutes. I then opened the door and led her out, using
26 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
a simple rope bridle. The onlookers had never seen
anything done like this before. Usually when catching
a colt they employ six or seven yokels to throw ropes in
all directions with a view to lassoing him ; then when the
colt is secured by the ropes he plunges wildly and pulls
three or four men over on the ground. The men are
afraid, and the colt is also afraid, and he takes a dislike
to the ropes and fights until he is beaten, and oft-times
loses confidence in man. But my method inspires
confidence, and the colt follows like a child and does
not plunge or gallop away. This wonderful yet simple
method I will fully explain later under the heading,
" Confidence in Man."
Man is governed by education, while the horse is
governed by fixed laws and instincts. Most men think
a horse is the most intelligent of all animals. Under this
misapprehension they undertake to manage him from
an intellectual standpoint. For instance, if he stumbles
or slips down, the whip is applied as a corrective ; if he
runs away he is severely punished and told that if "he
runs away again he will be half killed/' If he jibs or
" naps " in the street he is petted and caressed when he
stands still, and when he attempts to move or make a
start he is severely lashed with the whip. Then he stops
again and receives more caressing. Then the so-called
FOREWORD TO COLT-TRAINING 27
horseman (for I have seen many do this) jumps up into
the cart or buggy and uses the whip to look manlike and
to impress the onlooker that he is the boss. Of course,
the horse refuses to start, being confused. The result
is that the horse soon learns to stop to be petted and
refuses to go because he is whipped as soon as he makes
a move.
I will deal further with the nappy jibber and the way
to make him go without cruelty or violence.
Man's ignorance is further displayed in the black-
smith's shop. The colt or horse is taken to the forge to
be shod. As soon as the farrier attempts to touch the
foot a clever kick sends him flying across the shop. The
groom who holds the horse pets him and pulls his ears,
strokes him and speaks kind words whilst the farrier
lands a few useful jabs with his hammer. The groom
tells the farrier off for hitting the horse, and goes to
another smith, who is also kicked. The groom will not
allow the horse to be ill-treated or knocked about because
his master has told him that he must treat the horse
kindly and never allow anyone to be cruel to it.
Now the horse should be properly broken and trained
and prepared for his first visit to the farrier's shop,
when he will soon get used to the new surroundings and
allow the farrier to handle his feet carefully and put
28 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
well-fitting shoes on, instead of hurrying and driving a
nail in which might cause lameness.
Another absurd idea that exists all over the world
is that, when the horse is approached by the owner or
groom, they think it necessary always to use the word
" whoa/' even when the horse is standing quite still.
If they go to harness the horse they say "Whoa!" or
if they go to take the harness off " Whoa ! " Whatever
the horse does they will say " Whoa ! " It is a bad habit
on their part ; the word " whoa " should only be used
when the horse is trotting and is required to stop, for
" whoa " means stop and nothing more. Other words
should be used when harnessing or grooming a horse.
The eye should always be trained ; both sides of the
horse should be trained. Horses are usually approached
on the left or near side, and when approached on the
off side are nervous and peculiar, the fact being that
they are only used to being approached on the left side.
Their left eye is trained, but not their right eye. The
same thing is true of the cow that is used to being milked
on the off side ; if she is approached on the near side,
and an attempt made to milk her, she will probably kick
the milk-pail over.
Some people some quite clever men, too will
insist that the horse's eye magnifies. If this were so, a
FOREWORD TO COLT-TRAINING 29
horse about to jump a four-foot gate would be sure
to jump twice the height, or if going to bite an apple that
was two inches in diameter he would open his mouth
fourteen inches to receive it. I might enumerate dozens
of cases, but I think the above is sufficient to illustrate
to the reader that the theory is incorrect.
The horse has five senses, just like the human being :
feeling, seeing, hearing, tasting, and smelling feeling
being the strongest. He feels with his nose or tip end
of the upper lip. He examines everything he wishes
to understand with the tip end of the upper lip or his
nose. For instance, if a horse is afraid of any strange
object, he will snort and approach it nervously, but
when he carefully draws nearer and nearer you will see
him touch it or feel it with his nose. After feeling it
a few times he will become satisfied that it is harmless
and will not hurt him. He can be trained to allow any
object to touch him on any part of the body, but if it is
moved quickly about him, operating on the sense of
sight, he will become nervous.
If the object makes a noise, which operates on the
sense of hearing, he will again become frightened. There-
fore, if you want a horse to understand things thoroughly,
you must educate all the senses. If all the senses were
educated accidents would not be so numerous. Accustom
30 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
your horse to everything that might tend to annoy
any one of the senses ; then, and only then, can he be
considered thoroughly trained.
In presenting this work I am well aware of the severe
criticism it will be obliged to undergo at the hands of
horsemen and others ; but having seen a great many
horsemen at work, and carefully studied their various
systems and their good and bad results I feel that I
am quite justified in writing something on the subject.
I am quite familiar with the methods employed by the
numerous horse-trainers throughout the United States
and Europe : such men as Rarey, Powell, Sample,
Hutchinson, Everard Calthrop, Galvayne, Beery and
Captain Rimington ; these great horsemen have
trained the most vicious horses.
I have made a great study of the temperaments of
horses, and I can usually read the character of any
horse I am consulted about. There used to be a horse
in Surrey who was very vicious. I remember seeing
him, and I could not detect anything really wicked
from the phrenological point of view. I made many
inquiries about the horse, and eventually learned that
once upon a time the horse was a quiet, sensible, docile
animal. It appears that his groom, in order to show the
intelligence of the horse, would put his arm up to the
FOREWORD TO COLT-TRAINING 31
horse's mouth, coaxing him to take hold of it ; in doing
this the groom succeeded in getting the horse to bite his
arm in play. One day the horse bit harder than usual.
This enraged the fool of a groom, who tied the horse to
a post and thrashed the poor animal unmercifully with
a whalebone-twisted cutting-whip until the unfortunate
brute squealed with pain. When the horse got up again
he turned savage, for self-preservation is the first law
of nature, and this poor horse, who was once kind and
gentle, turned into a vicious brute, thinking it was
correct to protect himself against such savage attacks
by man.
Some people are of opinion that a horse knows when
you are afraid of him ; as a matter of fact, he knows
nothing about the thoughts of man. He only knows
what you can do with him, and if he finds out by
experience that he can handle you he will continue to
do so as long as he finds your inability to force his
submission ; as soon as he finds your ability to force
submission scientifically he will in consequence yield at
once to your commands.
I have been rather nervous at times with bad horses
when they have kicked at my head with vicious intent,
but my system has overpowered them, and I have
made them submit.
32 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
I have heard men say they have never seen a horse
they were afraid of, but I feel sure they would hustle
away from some I have had to deal with.
Great judgment and care must be used in handling
these vicious types. Dealers generally give these horses
a strong drug, because they are not horse-trainers and
they do not know how to handle a troublesome horse,
although their friends often say, " If old Joe or old George
can't drive him, well, nobody else can, that's a certainty/'
I once bought a beautiful pure-bred hackney mare
from a horse-dealer ; he had purchased her a day previous
from a wealthy gentleman. The mare was " nappy "
at least, I bought her with that character. She was all
that could be desired, especially to a hackney lover.
When she arrived home I put her in a comfortable loose
box; her mouth looked tender, so I placed three thin
chains in her mouth (the same as you would a bit).
I covered the chains with soft soap and vaseline; by
the morning the mare's mouth was soft and comfort-
able in fact, she had a new mouth. I put a nice false
collar on under the ordinary collar, a light set of Garnett's
harness, and I drove her with an easy-fitting india-
rubber bit. She looked a beautiful sort in my Robinson-
hooded buggy.
Now, presuming she was nappy, and judging by her
FOREWORD TO COLT-TRAINING 33
countenance that she only wanted gentle handling, I
left two nice warm rugs on her back ; when I jumped
in the buggy the groom ran alongside, ready to pull
them off. I took the reins gently, just holding them
lightly between my little fingers. I dropped my hands
and said, " Come along, little woman " ; she pricked
her ears, blew her nose, cocked her tail, gave one little
plunge, and off down the road, trotting a three-minute
gait . The mare was the admiration of everyone wherever
she went. I soon got her to go quite easily, because she
had always been used to a big, ugly Liverpool port bit
with a bearing rein and full set of fittings that go with
these absurd devices, and probably a big uncomfortable
collar. She had been kept in a warm, stuffy stable (I
suppose with the idea to keep her coat nice and sleek),
harnessed, and driven to the front door, where she stood
and got cold ; her mouth was snatched by the rough-
handed, mutton-fisted coachman, and by the time the
owner was ready to start the mare was cold and in a
little temper, and unwilling to go. Then she was sold
because she jibbed, and I was very pleased, too, for no
man could wish for a better trapper sweet- tempered
and willing in the right hands. The mare was sold
to a lady, who may, for all I know, be driving her
to-day.
34 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
However, I must not lose sight of my main subject,
and will return to the education and training of the
horse.
HOW TO BREAK A COLT. CONFIDENCE IN MAN
Presuming that the colt has been got up from the fields
into the stock-yard or loose-box, we will now proceed
to gain his confidence.
Turn him into an enclosure about twenty feet square ;
if this is not convenient, a good roomy loose-box will do
just as well.
At the present moment I am training a thoroughbred
colt ; he is a big, handsome chestnut gelding, seven years
old and quite unhandled, so he requires more patience
and a thoroughly good system with which to work. In
spite of so-called horsemen expressing their opinions as
to the impossible task I have undertaken in attempting
to break a seven-year-old wild, unhandled colt or horse,
when I got him safely home, I stabled him in a large loose-
box. It was dark, so I had the use of a lamp. When
Bobby saw his own shadow on the wall he became so
infuriated that he fought at it viciously, kicked his
heels up, and tried to bite it, the result being a full stop
when his teeth bit the wall. I was obliged to remove
the lamp and close the door. This will show his pluck ;
Photo by]
\Sport and General.
THE CONFIDENCE LESSON (FIRST POSITION).
THE COLT IS INTERESTED, BUT NOT AFRAID.
PJioto by]
[Sport and General.
THE CONFIDENCE LESSON (SECOND POSITION).
THE COLT " FEELING " THE TRAINER'S HAND.
[Facing p. 34.
Photo by] [Sport and General.
THE CONFIDENCE LESSON (THIRD POSITION). TOUCHING THE COLT'S
HEELS GENTLY WITH WHIP. HE INSISTS UPON FOLLOWING.
rhoto by]
\Sport and General.
THE PULLING-ROPE. POSITION TO ADOPT TO TEACH A SLUGGISH COLT TO
LEAD. (BRITISH-BRED TROTTER, "MERRY FIDDLER.")
HOW TO BREAK A COLT 35
most colts would have snorted and been nervous at the
unfamiliar sight.
I should like to say that after the third day I had
gained his confidence, and he followed me about like a
pet dog, to say nothing of my right hand being severely
sprained and tied up in a sling, the result of assisting
some lady motorists owing to a back-fire my hand
was nearly broken. To master such a colt as I have
described with only my left hand shows that the system
I am now explaining is absolutely infallible.
Having the colt in a roomy loose-box or an enclosure,
remove everything such as food, etc., that will draw his
attention from his lesson. Take the whip in your right
hand and enter the box. Crack the whip to draw the
colt's attention. The colt will naturally jump or run
to get away from you ; you should try to remain in
the centre, and snap the whip round the hind legs below
the hocks as he goes past you in the circle. After he
has gone round half a dozen times you should walk
directly towards the corner, giving the colt a chance to
turn his left side towards you. Talk to him, and con-
tinually give him the command, " Come here ! Come
here ! ' J If he rushes past you, draw the whip smartly
round his heels ; when he is ready to stop, walk gently
up to him and rub his nose and caress him, and say,
36 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
" Come here, boy ! " several times. If he should turn
his heels towards you to kick or to run away, draw him
a lash behind the heels below the hocks, and say, " Come
here ! "
Colts of different temperaments respond differently
to the whip. You will, of course, use your judgment
according to the type of colt you are training.
Be careful when using the whip not to overdo it or
upset the colt and frighten him. The idea of using
the whip as described is, firstly, to attract the colt's
attention to you ; secondly, to compel the colt to do
as you wish. This method has no tendency to make the
horse vicious ; and, curiously enough, the more alarmed
a colt is at the mysterious whip the more quickly he is
likely to obey you. As soon as he turns his head towards
you, place the whip under your left arm and approach
the colt on the left side and stroke him gently ; draw
the whip quietly out from under your arm and lay it
gently across the colt's nose, and let him feel it ; then
take a step backwards and say, " Come here ! " If
you step to the right the colt will move to the left.
When he moves, pat him and make a fuss of him, and say,
" Come on, boy ! " Look him straight in the eye and
draw back a few more steps ; slightly draw your whip
around his hocks and place your left hand on the
HOW TO BREAK A COLT 37
shoulder nearest to you and say, " Come here ! Come
here ! "
You will find the colt will soon begin to follow, and
you should always have a few oats ready to reward
him for his obedience. By having the colt in an en-
closure or a loose-box he cannot run away, and he has
to get used to the whip, which, of course, is only used
gently round his heels to force him forward, and eventu-
ally he cannot do anything but follow ; the circle being
a small one, he cannot go far from you.
When you pet him he will quickly rub his head on your
arm to get away from the whip at his heels. He soon
follows by force of habit.
Having worked him on his left side, you must now
work and train his right side. This is more difficult, so
I advise a light rope bridle to be used, and he should be
led around a few times and then the lesson can be given
as on the left side. Give this lesson for one hour ; if
he follows you within the hour, finish the lesson, for,
when the colt grasps your idea, do not bore him with
a long lesson, or he may get fed up.
Some colts learn quicker than others, but if you give
this lesson thoroughly for one hour every day for a week
the colt will always follow, and will have absolute con-
fidence in you. It would be well to practise on an
38 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
imaginary horse, then on a quiet old cob, before tackling
a wild colt. I guarantee this is a most wonderful lesson.
I have practised it so much that I can get a colt's con-
fidence in fifteen minutes and have him following me like
a pet dog. Always remember to give this confidence
lesson to all dangerous horses, -nappy jibbers and shyers.
It has been my winning point with " dodgy " horses,
for when we gain each other's confidence then we are
ready to commence business.
I remember buying a " dodgeman " in St. Martin's
Lane Repository without a warranty. Upon his arrival
home I gave him a full hour's confidence lesson a
lesson he had never had in his life before and he was
much easier to tackle the following day and seemed to
know me.
Scores of horsy friends have quietly wondered how
I have mastered so many " outlaws " ; they think their
own knowledge is sufficient. Their system is to put a
long rein on one side of the bridle and a dumb jockey
on his back and lounge the animal until it is tired out,
with the result that the colt or horse never gains con-
fidence, and is just as saucy when he gets fresh again.
If these gentlemen read this book they will be able to
see how I have mastered some of the most tricky horses
ever shipped into Essex.
HOW TO BREAK A COLT 39
I am proud to say that I have bought dozens of un-
manageable horses, mostly from horse-dealers who have
failed to effect any cure, and I have always succeeded
in breaking these horses so that any nervous driver could
drive them in safety. The secret of managing a rough
horse is to gain his confidence. The same applies to a
circus horse : the trainer must have the horse's confidence
before he can educate him or teach him clever tricks.
Therefore, if you get the confidence of an ordinary rough
horse, it is quite easy to teach him to pull a cart quietly.
But how many horsemen know this ?
Now, in the case of the seven-year-old colt I am
training, I wish to make him absolutely quiet ; but seven
years of idleness and freedom cannot easily be forgotten
in seven days, so I have found it necessary to lay
him gently on the ground and handle him all over.
There are several ways of laying a horse down or
throwing him down, but in this particular case I used
the leg-strap as recommended by Mr. Calthrop in his
book, " The Horse as Comrade and Friend/' I found it
the very ideal. When the colt found himself on three
legs, and never having laid down in a stable before in
his life, he was so perplexed that he pathetically licked
my face, rubbed his head on my shoulder and looked to
me for help and guidance. He had confidence in me,
40 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
and this affectionate behaviour was a certain proof.
Gradually he went down on both knees, sweating freely.
Then with a great thud he threw himself on the ground.
This took p]ace in the loose-box on a thick bed of straw.
He laid down for quite half an hour and allowed me
to caress him and sit on his back. When he got up I
handled him all over, and he was perfectly quiet and
offered no resistance at all.
Having gained the colt's confidence and taught him
to follow, we now proceed to give him a mouth, so he
is bridled for the first time. This can be done easily
after he has had the confidence lesson, but every care
should be taken in order to avoid frightening him.
The bridle is comfortably fitted and a kind, easy bit
properly fixed in the mouth. The object of correct
mouthing is to preserve instead of diminishing the
natural sensitiveness of the bars of the animal's mouth.
For this reason I recommend a humane bit. Cruel, big,
ugly jaw-breaking bits are unsuitable, and produce deep
sores and bruises, rendering this portion of the animal's
training unnecessarily painful and also " spoiling " its
mouth instead of " making "it. I am strongly opposed
to the use of fixed or " hard-and-fast " reins to connect
the bit to the surcingle ; also the bad habit of placing
a colt on " pillar " reins. I have known of capped
HOW TO BREAK A COLT 41
hocks to result from the colt kicking through being
kept on the pillar reins too long.
My system is to place a bit in the colt's mouth
a bit -with properly-constructed keys, especially for a
dry-mouthed colt, who fails to froth. I always smear
the bit with treacle mixed with soft soap. Without
this the colt cannot froth, and without frothing no colt
can mouth at all. I leave the bridle on for about two
hours in the morning and the same during the afternoon
for a few days.
It is essential to give the colt a perfect mouth,
especially if the colt is a well-bred one. A well-bred
horse with a perfect mouth is a pleasure to drive, but a
well-bred, high-spirited horse with an imperfect mouth
a mouth spoiled when a colt is always difficult to drive
by a diiver who has bad hands ; in a case of this kind a
good coachman with good hands usually excels as a
good whip.
I have had horses kick, rear, and bolt when the bit
has hurt their mouth, but when bitted with an india-
rubber bit they are usually well-humoured and go well,
without any signs of temper.
I had a four-year-old hackney brought to me as nappy,
bad-tempered and ' garratty." When I drove her I
soon learned that her mouth had been cruelly treated,
42 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
and the least touch on the rein would cause her to rear
up, run back, buck, and then plunge and dash off in a
temper ; and when the slightest pressure was applied to
the reins with a view to pulling her up or steadying her
she would put her head straight up in the air and show
obvious signs of pain by stamping all four feet stubbornly
on the ground.
To allow a mare to continue in this state only means
that she would develop vices of every kind and would
be described as a very bad dodgy mare, and very few
horsemen would be able to effect a cure. If colts were
handled correctly in the first stages there would be no
bad, troublesome horses.
After I had got the mare's mouth in a natural state
and drawn the bruises out, she immediately gave up the
little vices and became a nice easy mare to drive. If
the colt is first broken and trained in a snaffle or a humane
leather bit he will always be used to it, and will develop a
nice even mouth and become a sensible, good-tempered
animal.
MOUTHING AND DRIVING IN LONG REINS
Harness with surcingle and crupper and, of course,
an open bridle with a stout leather bit. This lesson
MOUTHING AND DRIVING IN LONG REINS 43
is to teach the colt to " get up." The object is to teach
him to go away from you.
The surcingle or harness saddle used in this lesson
must have rings low down or shaft -tugs on the saddle.
The reins, which should be forty feet long, are passed
through the low rings or tugs ; this prevents the colt,
if he wheels round, from getting them over his back and
getting tied or mixed up. You stand on the near side,
with the off-side rein passing round above the hocks ;
this gives you a considerable leverage and you can
keep the colt in his place and pull him up as you
please. You now drive him round in a circle to the
left ; you give the command " Get up ! " and crack the
whip at the same moment. Do not say " Whoa ! " in
this lesson ; this comes later on. Let the colt stand a
few minutes and prepare for the command " Get up ! "
Then repeat the same lesson to the right in order to
train the right eye and right side of the animal. Speak
distinctly, " Get up ! " Pause two or three seconds,
then crack the whip, but do not tickle him with it.
After going round the circle, stop him with a pull
on the reins. Again repeat the command " Get up ! "
until the colt moves directly he hears the command.
A field or spare piece of land is where this lesson
should be given. The long reins are excellent for
44 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
mouthing, and in addition give the colt a level mouth,
which is very important.
Another way to manipulate the long reins is to
commence by placing yourself somewhere about the
centre of the imaginary ring or circle and drive the
colt with the long reins a few times round it ; then let
your near-side rein slacken and pull smartly on the off-
side one with a swinging, not a jerky pull. At the
same moment just throw, or rather drop, the thong of
your whip on the inside shoulder of the colt in order to
induce it to turn away smartly, and not to give it time
to fight the bit. After it has gone a few times round
the ring to the right, slacken the off-side rein and give
a swinging pull on the near one, simultaneously dropping
the thong of your whip on the inside or off-side shoulder.
Continue to repeat this process, using less and less
force as the colt gradually learns to turn. A leather bit,
made of stout leather with big cheek leathers, assists
the colt in learning to turn and prevents injury to the
mouth.
It may be that the colt will object to the feeling of
the reins on his hind legs and will kick out at them ;
all the better ; let him kick, because he cannot do the
slightest harm, and if there is a disposition to kick it
must come out at some time or other, and this method of
MOUTHING AND DRIVING IN LONG REINS 45
long-reining absolutely eradicates it. You see, it is
better to break the colt by himself than a new " Wind-
over " or " Potter " governess car as well. So pay no
attention to the colt's kicks and struggles, but just
have hold of the reins good and tight, and let him see
you can hold him and that you are the master.
I hope it is quite clear from what I have said that
you do not on any account stand directly behind the
colt when you are driving in long reins, but always in
the middle of your imaginary circle, making him pass
round you from left to right. The effect of driving
from behind would be that you, while walking on your
own legs, would not have enough power to control the
colt should he plunge forward.
The next lesson is to teach the command, " Whoa ! "
The meaning of " whoa " will only be understood by the
colt when it is associated with an action. The first
time you use the command be sure that you are in a
position to follow with the proper action ; start the
colt with the command " Get up ! " Compel him to go
in a large circle to the left ; keep an equal pressure on
both reins, giving your entire attention to keeping him
going forward until you are quite ready to stop him
(you should stop him the first two or three times at the
same spot ; this will aid you in conveying your idea to
46 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
the colt). When you approach the spot where you
intend to stop, hold the reins steady, say " Whoa ! "
positively and distinctly, and immediately follow with
a sharp pull on the reins. Always drop your hands as
soon as the colt stops. The third time the colt will, if
you have stopped him there each round, respond to the
command " Whoa ! " After having taught the left side,
proceed in the same way to the right.
" Whoa " is the most important command to teach
your horse ; your life and the lives of your friends may
sometimes depend upon your horse being so thoroughly
trained to stop at command that he will obey under all
circumstances and excitement. Remember never to
use the word " whoa " unless you mean it. " Whoa "
means stop, and let the word " whoa " mean only one
act. If you only want your horse to slow down, say,
"Steady, steady, boy."
The tip end of the horse's nose is the most sensitive
part of the horse (the sense of touch). Most people
imagine that when the colt slowly approaches an object
he wants to smell it, but he doesn't ; he only wants to
feel it. Touch the colt's nose with a stick and let him
feel it carefully ; then rub it down his forelegs several
times. Then rub it over the neck and down the back
toward the tail and down the hindquaiters. After the
Photo
[Sport and General.
THE HUMANE METHOD. MOUTHING THE COLT IN LONG REINS.
Photo by]
[Sport and General.
TRAINING THE COLT TO UNFAMILIAR OBJECTS, SOUNDS AND SIGHTS-
THE FIRST DRIVE IN HARNESS 47
colt will allow the stick to touch any part of his body it
is then time to teach him to stand quietly to be crup-
pered. Make your motions carefully so as not to excite
the colt. After this training you will never have any
trouble in cruppering your colt.
Never jerk the crupper out from under the tail, for
by so doing you often hurt the colt and he may after-
wards prove difficult to crupper, which tends to develop
the kicking habit.
THE FIRST DRIVE IN HARNESS
The colt should now be ready to harness up, so put
the harness on gently, and be sure it is good strong
harness. Drive the colt with the harness on up and
down the road or field, and give repetition of previous
lessons of " Whoa " and " Get up," turning him to the
left and to the right.
I use a long-shaft cart for this purpose, and some-
times I have used a four-wheeled American buggy or
show waggon. They are easy for the colt to guide or
steer. When the colt is familiar with the vehicle you
should get a groom to hold the shafts up and walk the
colt beneath them a few times. When he has decided
to stand quietly, lower the shafts gently on to his back,
hold them there, and repeat this several times before
48 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
putting the shafts in the tugs. When this is done the
groom fixes the traces quietly and quickly.
The quieter you are and the less people you have
interfering the better things will be. I never have more
than one assistant when I am first hitching a colt up,
and then my "groom" is sometimes a little girl of
twelve summers ; she is really much more reliable and
sensible than some of the men I have had round me at
times.
When the colt is harnessed I lead him a little way,
then I give the command " Whoa ! " I get in the cart,
holding my reins, which have been in my hand all the
time : this is the safest place for them. The colt feels
strange, for it is his first time in the cart, and he gives
a plunge or a rear, and at the command " Get up ! " he
goes off in style, blowing his nose and prancing, for he
is full of youth.
I remember quite well when I was a little boy of about
five years of age, how I went out into the stable one
morning and beheld a pleasant surprise a sweet little
Shetland pony. It happened that my grandfather, a
very keen horseman, who was shooting in Scotland, had
seen a drove of Shetland ponies and decided there and
then to buy one and despatch it to me. He must have
forgotten that the pony was in its unbroken state, or
THE FIRST DRIVE IN HARNESS 49
else the one sent had been substituted for the one he
actually bought. However, the groom had his greatest
task with horses when he brought it from the station
depot to our stable; by what I can remember, it
pulled him over and got away, but was caught later by
two policemen. It was at this particular time that I
was taught by my father one of the best whips of his
day how to break or train a colt, and I watched him
with delight when he gave this tiny pony the confidence
lesson. Within the hour the midget was following us
about the loose-box ; it afterwards became a great
favourite.
At this time my father owned Oats and Barley, an
American trotter, who took a record of 2.19 in those
days. I well remember going for drives with my father
behind this great trotter ; he was quiet and docile, as
most trotters are.
Well, I must apologise for going astray, but these
pleasant reminiscences will crop up, and most people
who have been brought up with horses have their pet
tales to tell about them.
Returning to the colt, it is presumed that his first
drive has taken place in a quiet road or in the field, where
there is no danger of meeting motors or anything that
will frighten him. Now before we harness him the second
50 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
time it will be necessary to get him used to different
objects he will be likely to meet on the road. This
lesson is best given in the field, with just the bridle
and long reins and surcingle. Let the colt walk round
quietly, give the command " Whoa ! " then get some-
body to make a noise on an old tin can, or drum, and
drive the colt around at a fair distance, gradually bringing
him nearer and nearer to the noise, by which time he
will be almost used to it.
Talk to him, and when you get right up to the noise,
pull the reins and say " Whoa ! " Then stop the noise
and allow the colt to touch the instrument. When he
has satisfied his curiosity, have the "music " start again,
commencing very quietly and gradually increasing in
sound. Be careful not to startle or frighten the colt.
Caress him and talk to him. The colt will try to follow
you, but you must continue to drive him in the long
reins ; do not lead him. After he has commenced to
ignore the noise let someone lay a heap of papers on the
ground and drive your colt all round them ; let him see
them from all angles; then drive him slowly up to
them, letting him step over them. Be careful to hold
him and have your reins tight, for it is .probable he will
give a jump when he is passing over them. Continue
this until he ignores them ; let him feel them, and then
THE FIRST DRIVE IN HARNESS 51
rub his nose with a large handful of the papers. A few
hours of this will train his mind and also his eye, and he
will not shy at these objects when he meets them on the
road.
The next thing to do is to drive him towards the main
road, still in long reins, and allow him to see the motors.
If there is a steam-roller at work let him stand and
watch it ; then drive him past it, allowing him to watch
the big fly-wheel, which so many horses are afraid of.
One hour's training round the steam-roller will work
wonders. The steam-roller has been a boon to me, for
I have successfully trained dozens of colts, also shyers,
in this way. Our roads are very bad, our rates are very
high, but I do not grumble ; I get my full value out of
the steam-roller.
As soon as the colt pays no attention to the noise
take him home and let him have the rest of the day to
himself. No harm is done by repeating this lesson, and
it is most essential that the horse should pass all road
nuisances, for he has a great many to face on the roads
nowadays.
When he has been well educated in the long reins
and become acquainted with various noises, objects and
motor traffic, then put him in harness and take a good
four-mile drive. Remember to let him walk down all
52 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
hills to learn how to use his breeching. Walking is good
for colts, and they learn more whilst walking than when
trotting.
After the colt has been driven a few times it is time
to teach him to back ; this is done in long reins. Take
a good pull on the reins not a jerk or snatch give the
command " Back ! " Repeat this several times until he
backs at the word of command.
If you train your colt exactly as I have explained you
will have a well-trained animal.
SHOEING THE COLT
After the colt has been well long-reined and is quiet
to handle, get his feet used to being picked up and
thoroughly handled ; this I usually have done after the
first time in harness. He is then much quieter, and it
gives the farrier a better chance to fit the shoes to the
foot.
Chapter II
Breaking the Colt to Saddle How to Teach the Colt to Jump.
Chapter II
BREAKING THE COLT TO SADDLE
THE preliminary and confidence lesson has been
given, and having long-reined the colt thoroughly, we
will presume that he is required for saddle-work only.
The next thing is to accustom the colt to see a man
mounting and dismounting him. Commence by standing
at his side and giving a little spring as if to mount him ;
let him feel your whole body against him. Continue to
half spring as if to jump on his back until he stands
quietly. This should be practised on both sides of the
colt. Then put an old saddle on and work him in long
reins for about fifteen minutes; after this, repeat the
partial mounting and dismounting on the off side and
keep on with the exercise, taking each side alternately
as long as you may consider necessary. The object is
to teach the colt to stand quietly while being mounted.
The correct way to mount from the ground is to
grasp the mane firmly with one hand the left hand, if
mounting from the near side and vice versa, and the
55
56 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
wither with the other ; then spring up on them until
your body is nearly in an erect position on your hands,
and smartly throw your leg (the right one if mounting
from left side) over the animal's back. Practise this
complete mounting and dismounting from both sides
frequently to thoroughly familiarise the colt with the
proceedings.
The colt is now quiet to mount, but can only be
classed as a " green one/' The first thing to be done
is to get a good mouth on the colt by no means a
trifling undertaking in many cases, especially if the colt
is intended for a polo pony. Personally, I think there
is nothing like the long reins to accomplish this. Great
care must be exercised to avoid getting the mouth sore,
and the lessons should be short ones. The reason there
are so many horses with bad mouths is, I think, because
of attempts to make their mouths by riding them,
instead of driving in long reins at the commencement
of their training.
When the colt is mouthed he should be quietly ridden
by a rider who has good hands, a rider who holds on
with the reins should never be allowed to mount a colt,
especially if he is a valuable one.
Should the colt be a rough fellow, or one that has been
badly handled at the initial stage of his career and
Photo by]
[Sport and General.
THE INDIAN WAR BRIDLE,
Photo by]
[Sporl and General.
THE INDIAN WAR BRIDLE ~FOR SEVERE ACTION. (THE AUTHOR HAS
INTRODUCED THIS TO FARRIERS AND THUS PREVENTED MANY ACCIDENTS.)
| Facing p. C6.
Photo by}
[Sport and General.
THE EIGHT- YEAR-OLD CHESTNUT COLT BEING LONG-REINED
FOR THE FIRST TIME.
Phoio 6 ?/l [Sport and General
HE SUBMITS TO THE MASTER REIN AND IS WILLING TO BEHAVE.
BREAKING THE COLT TO SADDLE 57
somewhat spoiled, we shall have to commence by giving
him a full confidence lesson and long-rein him, if he is
troublesome to mount perhaps he has succeeded in
unseating his previous breakers. It will be a good
plan to give him something that will occupy his whole
attention and keep him still while you attempt to mount
him. The simple and useful article is a piece of rope,
tied in a particular way, as used by the North American
Indians (who are wonderful riders), and they call it their
" war bridle." Take a piece of rope three yards long,
and at the end of it tie a simple knot ; then at a distance
of about one foot tie another knot of the same shape,
only leave it open. You now pass the first knot through
the second one from the far side, which you pull tight so
as to fix the first, and this leaves a small noose. Place
the noose in the colt's mouth, under his tongue, not
over, with knots on the off side ; bring the end of the
rope over the neck and let it rest behind the ears ; bring
it down the near side of the head or face and draw the
end through the loop on the near side of mouth. You
can now pull your end of the rope till you acquire what-
ever tightness you wish. The slightest pressure will
make the average troublesome colt or horse stand still
and behave himself. The Indian war bridle is under
the ordinary bridle, and can be worked quite easily.
58 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
By using this simple device you will soon be able to mount
the colt without any trouble. I always use it on colts
which I have sent to me, and which have been badly
broken and spoiled ; it keeps them quiet, and they soon
forget they were once boss.
Having succeeded in mouthing the colt and teaching
him to stand quietly to be mounted, we will now proceed
to teach him to jump.
Different people, different ways. I taught a young
green horse to jump some years ago, and my method was
quite successful, for the horse, whose name was Makeshift,
did very well as a show jumper and carried his master
to hounds.
HOW TO TEACH THE COLT TO JUMP
This section of the colt's training depends upon the
animal himself ; some colts are born jumpers and
require practically no training in this respect, whilst
others have no idea at all of jumping. I have had well-
bred colts who have jumped quite naturally, without
any tuition, and I have had some who have absolutely
refused to jump a little ditch ; so, therefore, training to
jump is an important feature of the colt's education.
The fact of an animal being a really reliable conveyance
over a stiff country always greatly enhances its value,
HOW TO TEACH THE COLT TO JUMP 59
so that to the breeder of hunters the early and thorough
tuition of the stock is essentially an important question.
The age at which the training should commence is
a point upon which there is a great diversity of opinion,
some contending that you cannot commence at too early
an age, others that it is injudicious to begin in foalhood.
My candid opinion is that, provided the foal be a strong
one and bred for a hunter, you cannot begin its jumping
exercises too early. The jumping exercises I suggest
during foalhood, whilst it is running with its dam, should
be effected over a series of fences about eighteen inches
high, such as the mother can walk over easily. They
should be situated where the mother will be compelled
to walk when leaving the box in the morning and re-
turning at night. I recommend two jumps only, which
should be movable and well padded with old sacks and
straw, etc. The height of these jumps should be
gradually increased.
These early lessons develop and strengthen the
muscles, and create in the animal a sense of security
and confidence which prepares it for the more formidable
tasks it will have to face when it reaches maturity
that is, when we have to train a colt who has to be
forced to jump, owing to lack of previous training.
(I do not mean being ridden.)
60 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
We must not flurry or frighten him. Take him into
a field and lead him through small gaps, and let him
get quite acquainted with his new work. Take him for
a long walk, and when he jumps a ditch give him a
reward of some oats or sugar. When he sort of grasps
the idea of what is expected of him, and he is quite
amiable about it, then we can put the long reins on.
Commence with two jumps in the imaginary circle ;
drive the colt round a few times. He will probably step
over the bars or jumps. Do not get excited or use the
whip. Drive him round gently, and he will soon jump
and get used to his new exercises. When it has done
a few jumps well and successfully, conclude the lesson
at once and again make much of the colt. The great
aim should be to make the animal associate the training
with kind treatment.
When the colt has been worked both left and right
sides, place a third jump and so make a double jump
on one side. If the jumps can be varied, all the
better.
After this has been accomplished the colt should be
ridden about the farm in the usual way and jumped
over small, easy places to inspire confidence. Should
the colt show any signs of refusal, the rider must be
ready to force him and ride him with some determination,
HOW TO TEACH THE COLT TO JUMP 61
for it would be useless to give in to the colt. When he
has obeyed, then reward him.
If you have a pack of harriers near it will be fine
exercise to get the colt out and let him just see them a
few times. The excitement which makes the blood course
through a well-bred horse's veins oft-times induces him to
take the fences in good style, better than in cold blood.
The great thing now is not to overdo the beginner ;
give him plenty of walking exercise and a few jumps
daily, and you will find him gradually developing into a
hunter. When riding him, remember that you require
both hands to collect and assist him as he lands over a
fence ; keep both hands well down, your legs especially
calves so placed as to anticipate his every movement.
When he lands on the other side let the hands gradually
go down, one on each side of his withers ; this assists the
colt and helps him without any loss of time. After you
have given the colt enough work for the day, a pail of gruel
will not be amiss, and a nice, warm linseed-and-bran mash
will comfort him before he has his feed of corn. Never wash
him ; if he is muddy, brush him down and then bandage
his legs, rug him up and leave him alone for a few hours.
Much can be said of the horseman who can break
and make a hunter, and if he sells him for three figures
he is not being overpaid for his work.
Chapter III
"Gee-ology/' or Phrenology in Horses The Strait Jacket The
Master Hand The Pulling Rope The Master Rein The Way
to Throw a Horse.
Chapter III
" GEE-OLOGY," OR PHRENOLOGY IN HORSES
BEFORE I give in detail my methods of handling vicious
and bad-mannered horses, a lesson in the phrenology of the
horse will assist you to judge the animal with which you
are about to deal.
A good head does not always denote a sensible, docile
nature, for, if the horse's early training was not properly
carried out, then the horse may have acquired bad
habits, or even have developed vices. In some instances
we can reasonably compare this type of horse with a
man of bad habits. Take some unfortunate individual
who has been badly reared and not properly trained, who
has been tempted and caught doing the wrong thing and
thrown into gaol. This man may have quite a good-
shaped head and open countenance, but the environ-
ment was wrong ; oft-times a man of this calibre has
been reformed when kindly treated and shown the error
of his ways. But the hardened criminal with the criminal
head and features is difficult to convert. The same thing
65
66 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
applies to the horse with a criminal head : it is difficult
to conquer. But the horse with the good-shaped head
who has been badly trained or broken, and thereby has
formed bad habits, can be reformed by humane breaking
methods. So could the criminal type of horse, but he
would require no end of patience expended upon him
and a strong-willed, even-tempered trainer. A bad-
tempered man who employs brute force would infuriate
a wicked horse and make him worse.
I will deal briefly with the phrenology of the horse,
and endeavour to describe the heads we are most likely
to come in contact with.
A remark usually passed when a new horse is bought,
by various friends of the owner who are present to express
their opinions of the new purchase, is, " Oh, hasn't he
got a beautiful head ! " " Oh, what a lovely eye ! " So
by these remarks we know that the average horse-lover
has unconsciously a slight knowledge of phrenology in
horses.
There are four types of horses most commonly met
with. These can be described as follows :
(i) The kind head and eye. Lean, uniform head, broad
between the eyes to the top of the head, ears well formed,
a pleasing expression. This horse is easily trained, kind
and obedient.
" GEE-OLOGY," OR PHRENOLOGY IN HORSES 67
(2) The obstinate, sullen type, with a bulge between
the eyes, which gives the eye an appearance of being
situated at the side of the head ; a heavy jowl, and thick
throat-latch. This horse is difficult to master, and it
requires great patience on the part of the trainer. He
will resist you, and if the whip was given (by mistake)
he would glory in being able to take a good hiding.
(3) The nervous type: the eye projecting towards
the side of the head which enables him to see as much
behind as in front. The eyes are large and full of fear.
He will have a fight, and nervousness will cause him
to kick. He will shy and try to run away, but if treated
by my methods and used kindly, with patience he can
be mastered. Of course, violence would be disastrous.
(4) The vicious type has a prominent forehead, dish
face, small subtle eye which indicates treachery. His
ears are obviously ugly. He is dangerous and is seldom
mastered, and he has to be mastered many times before
he gives in. This is the type of horse that brought
fame to the horse-trainers I have previously referred to,
for these horsemen successfully tackled this criminal
type of horse and made him quite submissive.
If any of these dangerous types of horses are properly
handled and trained when colts they will form good
habits, and it should be clearly understood that when
68 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
a colt forms a habit, whether good or bad, it sometimes
remains with him, and, although curable, it requires a
great deal of patience in order to effect a cure.
I once handled an unbroken colt with a head exactly
as described in Type 4. This colt was dangerous,
kicked wildly, and would fight his way through any fence,
if given the chance, and he would kick savagely, too.
He was rising three years. I secured him in a very
strong loose-box, and when I locked myself in with him
he made several attempts to kick me both with fore and
hind feet. I gave him a confidence lesson. He did
some smart kicking when I touched his heels with the
whip, but, finding his escape from me was impossible,
he wisely gave in and commenced to follow.
In such a case as this make sure to impress upon the
colt's young mind that man is master; so when I
completed the full confidence lesson I tied his head to
his tail (I will explain this later). After a few hours'
treatment (each lesson lasts one hour, and I only work
a colt about one hour a day) this colt was quite friendly.
But to continue my treatment : I put him down on the
ground and handled him all over. He never once had
his own way with me ; I was at all times the master,
and he formed a " habit " of submitting kindly every
time I handled him. If, on the other hand, he had
" GEE-OLOGY," OR PHRENOLOGY IN HORSES 69
succeeded in winning, even one trick, the wicked portion
of his brain would have been active. My idea was to
let his natural gifts of viciousness (as denoted by his
head) lie dormant, give them no training, but let good
habits overrule them.
If this colt had been tackled by some horsemen that
I have seen at work with colts, I know that his pre-
dominating gift or feature, " wickedness/' would have
developed itself automatically, for the system employed,
viz., four men on ropes pulling at one end, the colt
fighting at the other, not knowing which man was the
master, would cause him to kick and fight furiously,
and he would probably make good his escape or kick
somebody, and, even if exhausted, he would be ready to
fight again when revived. Consequently, no proper
discipline could be arrived at, so the shape of his head
and his actions would determine his character and he
would be easily judged as dangerous.
The same applies to the colt with a good head ;
when handled as described, by rough breakers, bad
habits are formed, grow with the colt, and are very
difficult to cure. So if the colt with a good head which
has been badly trained kicks at you, he is termed
" wicked," and if the colt with the wicked head trained
by my methods did not offer to kick you, and recognised
70 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
you as man, the master, you would describe him as docile.
So, therefore, it is quite obvious that correct training is
absolutely essential.
THE STRAIT JACKET
Having given a brief outline and delineation of
the horse's character, I will now proceed to explain
how my late father used to put a vicious horse or wild
bucker in the " strait jacket." I have used it myself
on several occasions, and it is quite adequate when
dealing with an outlaw. Tie the horse to a post,
and throw a looped rope over his quarters, the
loop being large enough to touch the ground behind
the horse whilst the upper parts rest on his back. The
horse will kick when the rope touches him, but when
he is quiet, work the loop down the quarters to the
hocks, then pull the loop tight to secure the hind legs.
It will be as well to make a few half -hitches. Next,
pass the rope over and round the loins and tie a single
knot ; then draw the end under the belly towards the
front legs and tie the rope round them securely above
the knees. Next, take the rope over the shoulders and
tie it to where the front legs are hitched.
The horse can move about, but soon realises he is
mastered. You can now mount him bare-back ; a
Photo by] I Spurt and General.
THE "ASTER HAND. THE CORRECT POSITION TO ADOPT WHEN FIXING IT.
Phuio by} [Sport and General.
THE MASTER HAND. " NOW I CANNOT KICK OR PLUNGE."
THE MASTER HAND 71
saddle can be put on and you can continue to mount
and dismount until he is perfectly quiet.
THE MASTER HAND, OR TYING THE HORSED HEAD TO
HIS TAIL
This is really a scientific utilisation of the horse's strength
against himself. It is a great improvement on the old
rough and brutal way of handling either a colt or a
full-grown horse.
The position is attained by tying the animal's head
round (with the head-collar rope) to its tail. If the
horse has a long tail a tail-cord is easily fixed. If the
horse is docked it can be done by first tying the cord
(strong cord) round the tail towards the top, then take
the middle hair and turn it up and bind the cord round
tightly, making a few half-hitches, then slip the end of
the cord through the loop of hair. Make another half-
hitch to secure it, then tie a loop in the end of the cord.
To do this on a dangerous horse may seem impossible,
but if the near fore-leg is strapped up and the war bridle
used, it is quite easily done. You can swing the horse
round a dozen times and daze him for the time being.
Next, take the head-collar rope or strap and put it
through the loop in the tail cord, then draw the head
round slowly to an angle of about 40 degrees. Tie
72 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
the rope and allow the horse to turn round and round,
but be sure to have him on soft ground, with no shoes
on. He cannot fall down ; he may possibly stagger down.
If the horse you are applying the " master hand "
to is a nervous type, five minutes 1 treatment should be
enough, whereas a stubborn animal would require, say,
fifteen minutes or even more.
When the horse has settled down into a quiet state,
take a long pole and touch his nose with it ; let him
feel it. Then get the horse used to being touched all
over. If the animal tries to kick, insist on touching him
and using him to the poling. As a rule, when he kicks
he will automatically whirl himself round in a circle.
While in this position you can show him papers and
old sacks ; touch him with them and get all the resistance
out of him. In the case of a bad kicker, you can usually
succeed in harnessing after the master hand has quieted
him.
I am going to deal with various vices and vicious
types in which the master hand will play a great part.
THE PULLING ROPE
I shall recommend this rope for various " dodges." It
can also be used with great advantage in teaching a colt
to lead. The way to fix it is as follows. After having
THE PULLING ROPE 73
put a good halter or bridle on the horse, take a rope
twenty feet long, place one end over the horse's back,
draw it carefully under the stomach and tie it in a slip-
knot around the body just in front of the hind legs ;
then bring the long end of the rope under the body and
through the front legs, up through the ring in the halter,
and tie the end securely to a strong post or tree. Now
make a noise in order to force the horse back in the rope.
When he runs back he will automatically jump forward,
and he will soon stop running back or breaking away
when tied up.
This pulling rope is a wonderful cure for various
bad habits, which I will describe later.
A lady friend of mine used to have a favourite pony,
but he would not be tied up in the stable. If he was
tied he would run back and break his head-collar ; and,
moreover, if he was tied to a gate in the street he would
run back and break his bridle. She called at my farm
once to see a mare and foal, but she insisted upon having
her pony unharnessed and placed in a loose-box before
she ventured away. It was then, when she explained
to me all about her pony's bad habits, that I told her I
would cure him ; but she doubted me very much
especially as her groom had tied a rope round his neck
and to a tree, and nearly strangled the poor little chap.
74 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
I said, " Your groom didn't know where to put the
rope " ; and then and there I placed the pulling rope
around the pony's body and worked him out. After-
wards I instructed her to tie him up with his bridle on.
I then fired my gun over his head and he stood quite
quiet. He was always safe to tie up after that lesson.
THE MASTER REIN. THE WAY TO USE IT
No matter how rough the horse may be, he can be
humanely broken and subdued by the master rein.
Lead the horse into the field or an enclosure a good
big farm stock-yard is an ideal place, because if he
gets away from you before you are proficient it doesn't
much matter, for he cannot go far. Have a good strong
open bridle on, a big double-ring snaffle-bit, with cheek
leathers, the surcingle as described, long reins, good
set of bandages and knee-caps, the foot-straps and
the master rein as seen in illustration. The driving
long reins are running through the low rings on
the surcingle. Take the reins in the left hand and
the master rein in the right hand, give the command
" Get up ! " and let the horse walk round the imaginary
circle as described in colt -training ; gradually let the
horse feel a little pressure on the master rein. Shout
at him, and tell him to do what he likes ; if he is going
THE MASTER REIN 75
to rear or kick, be ready, and give a good pull on the
master rein and bring him to his knees. Let the rein
loose and allow him to get up. Give the command
" Whoa ! " and at the same time give a pull on the
master rein. When he gives in, remove the master rein,
but leave the straps on the fetlocks. He will still think
you have the rein on with which to down him. Continue
to drive around the circle without the rein.
Next, get ready to harness him, but put the master
rein on again before you harness him to the cart. When
harnessed, use the master rein and pull his legs away
from him ; let him see you can always down him. When
you think you have reduced the power of the master
rein to your driving reins and voice, then take it off
again, but leave the straps on his legs. By gradually
removing the straps he will not associate your victory
with them. Some horses require downing several times,
while others soon submit.
If the horse does something wrong at a particular
place, drive him and be ready to down him just as he
is getting ready to kick, rear or jib. If the horse is an
outlaw it will be necessary to throw him on his side a
few times and show him what really can be done if he
is a naughty boy. Then work him out in long reins and
the master rein.
76 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
THE WAY TO THROW A HORSE
I have often bubbled over with excitement when I
have been watching various veterinary surgeons throwing
colts to castrate them or for operation. Their system
always makes me feel I could go and take off their heavy
ropes and hobbles and use my own light tackle. Their
method requires a deal of assistance, and the crowd of
people helping tends to terrorise the animal. The
method is not effective in preventing the horse from
struggling violently and dangerously, both whilst in
the act of being thrown and after it is actually down.
With this method of hobbles several men are necessary.
The horse is thrown down violently, and then two men
sit on his head to keep him down, and if he struggles
he sometimes injures his back. My system, which I am
going to explain in detail, is free from the drawbacks
mentioned above, and only requires one man ; sometimes
I have an extra hand to hold a rope tied to the tail to
prevent a wild fellow from pitching on his head.
The illustrations will give a good idea of how it is
done.
The halter must be a strong one ; use the surcingle
and have the crupper on to prevent the surcingle from
slipping forward. Fasten the left forefoot with a foot-
THE WAY TO THROW A HORSE 77
strap (like a breeching-strap) round below the fetlock,
and buckle the strap through the belly-band. Fix
the end of the throwing-rope (one-inch rope will do)
to the left ring on the top of the surcingle, pass it through
the ring in the back of halter or head-collar, from the
left side to the right side, and back through the other
ring on the right side of surcingle. Take the end of the
rope and stand on the right side. Gradually pull his
head round to his right side until he goes down on his
knee he will drop to his left side ; keep the rope tight,
and he will not be able to get up, no matter how he
struggles ; let his head go loose to ease him. As soon
as he tries to get up just pull his head back to his side,
and he will be rendered helpless.
In the case of a kicker or vicious horse, allow him
to struggle half-way up, and then show him you can
throw him down again. Let him get up and stand for
a few seconds, then throw him once again. Do not
exhaust him or overdo him. The idea is to show him
that you are his master. Always show a bad horse
that you can put him down. The same applies in the
case of a bad man.
Chapter IV
The Kicking Horse The Nappy Horse or Jibber Breaking a
Runaway Horse Biting and Snapping The Rearing Horse The
Nervous Horse Shying.
Chapter IV
THE KICKING HORSE
NATURE has provided all animals with some means of
defence, and kicking is the horse's natural method. As
we know the horse, he has no more need to kick than a
goat to use her horns, but the fact remains that an
enormous number of horses have this habit.
The causes of kicking are numerous, but I will reduce
them to two. Certain horses have the instinct of self-
defence developed so highly that at the least indication
of danger or mistreatment they are prepared to defend
themselves. The tendency is so marked in some that
they kick at almost anything, and the habit becomes so
fixed that we say they have a disposition to kick. The
other type is the nervous colt, who kicks when you
approach him, yet when you make friends with him
he forgets to kick and invariably licks your hand.
There is no reason to class the previous type of kicker
as an outlaw and think it cannot be handled because it
has this disposition ; its natural tendencies will only
" F
82 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
require patience and persevering efforts to make it as
obedient and affectionate as the erstwhile nervous colt.
Most horses kick, not on account of a bad disposition,
but because their owners were ignorant, and really taught
them to kick by bad breaking and training.
If a horse kicks when the breeching-straps accidentally
break going down a hill it is only an indication that he
was not educated properly when a colt. Kicking when
the reins get under the tail is another indication of bad
training in colthood. I cannot place too much emphasis
upon the necessity for thorough colt -training.
The way I handle a nervous kicker is quite simple.
I throw him on the ground (this usually takes place in
a field, and I have plenty of litter about). When the
horse shows complete subjection by throwing, I use him
to being touched all over with the whip ; then a sack full
of hay is pulled over his body and rested on his hind-
quarters, until he shows no resistance at all when touched.
I then put the horse in a loose-box and pole him all
over with a long stick (like a broom-stick). He is next
harnessed and driven in long reins, commencing at a
walk. The continual feeling of the rein dangling uses
the horse to being constantly touched behind, the place
where most kickers resent being touched, and the place
where a good many grooms fail to clean them when
THE KICKING HORSE 83
they kick this usually necessitates a pail of cold
water being thrown over them instead of being given a
good grooming.
The practice of lounging does not appeal to me,
whereas the long reins exercise and mouth at the same
time. If the horse still shows signs of kicking, I tie an
old sack full of straw to his tail until he gets used to
being touched, and eventually ignores it and gives in
to commonsense treatment. The master hand assists
me greatly, and the kicker soon realises he has an
all-powerful master.
Mr. Sidney Hough, of Arab fame, once told me he
had a bad kicking mare that used to run away when
she had kicked the trap to pieces and broken all the
harness. She was a Hackney mare, Burton May Queen,
the winner of the late Walter Winans' Challenge Cup for
any pedigree Hackney that could trot a mile in three
minutes. The mare was quiet then, and never kicked.
Mr. Hough explained that the kicking was a new habit
she had formed. He had turned her out and " washed
his hands of her." During our conversation Mr. Hough
said, " If you can cure her you may have her for a
present."
Needless to say, I went to his stud farm the next
day and brought Queenie home. After giving her the
84 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
confidence lesson, I applied the master hand, after which
she laid peacefully on the ground and allowed me to
touch her all over, and she was never any more
trouble.
We became great pals, and my friend's children used
to come and play with her in the loose-box. We had
many drives behind her. Nobody knew how I handled
and broke her. They only saw me driving her in the
street after she had been handled.
Another bad kicker I handled was Coopersale Dot, a
thirteen-hand Irish Hackney-bred pony, a clever huntress
and winner of many races. She came from Aldridge's
Repository; I bought her after she had smashed her
new owner's trap to pieces. This pony appeared on the
cinematogaph in my film, " Humane Horse-Breaking."
The filhi showed me driving the pony in long reins. I
afterwards drove the pony in my show waggon without
a bridle, bit or reins, much to the surprise of many well-
known horsemen. Of course, I had the master rein on,
with which to control her, for she was a confirmed
kicker and had been constantly drugged by her previous
owners to such an extent that she was useless. The
least exertion affected the heart, and the result was a
swoon or fainting-fit.
I have heard horsemen refer to kickers they have
THE KICKING HORSE 85
had to deal with in their time ; for example, I will
quote one case, but all are much the same.
The horse was a kicker, and it took three men to
harness him and two to drive him. Two kicking-straps
were used. Yet the horseman goes on to relate how
on certain occasions the horse would go quietly and
never kick, and then at a certain time he would set to
kicking. These horses, according to their owners, are
" garratty," or " scatty," which are slang terms for
megrims, or staggers. But I am not of the same
opinion.
Now I will endeavour to explain my theory. Kicking
is a bad habit ; horses, like men, are addicted to bad
habits. The man of a certain character will remain sober
for months, then suddenly break out and drink heavily
for a week or two ; then he will give it up and remain
sober again for a long period. The individual has not
been broken of his habit ; what's more, he does not
wish to be broken. Now, in the case of this peculiar type
of kicking horse, he has not been properly cured or broken,
and he gets tired of the habit for a period ; then a slight
reminder causes him suddenly to resume kicking. A
thorough course of scientific breaking would break the
habit, for if he is content to go quietly for a certain
period he can be persuaded to give it up altogether.
86 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
The horses that are called garratty by some horsemen
are nothing of the kind. The symptoms of megrims are
entirely different from these periodical outbreaks of kick-
ing and bolting. Sometimes the so-called garratty horse,
who starts to kick, takes fright at the loose and broken
harness touching him and bolts, smashing himself up.
If he had been properly broken he would not do it.
The real garratty horse, who suffers from temporary
pressure on the brain, producing partial or entire insensi-
bility, may result from pressure of the collar, extra
exertion, and possibly from excessive heat. Plethoric
animals with short necks are very liable to it. The fit
comes on suddenly and without warning, and most often
when the animal is in harness. I have known of bearing-
reins being the cause, because they prevent the natural
free action of the head. In slight cases the horse stands
still, looks round, throws his head up stupidly, and
then goes on as if nothing had happened. He does not
kick or bolt. In severe cases he rears up, turns round
madly, and is likely to run into anything ; after a second
plunge he will come down heavily upon the ground.
The horse should be dieted and well physicked, and
general health assured by a judicious system of feeding.
Now, this type of horse could not possibly kick or bolt,
and the symptoms are quite different from the habits
THE KICKING HORSE 87
of the kicking horse or runaway. If the so-called garratty
horse had a fit of staggers this would easily be detected.
My opinion is this : when some horsemen come in
contact with a horse that occasionally indulges in a
kicking bout they are so afraid that they dispose of
it, and in excusing themselves they are bound to say,
' Well, the horse was ' a little wrong upstairs/ and
dangerous to drive/' If they really thought this I feel
sure they would have the brute destroyed and not let
some innocent individual risk his neck behind such a
dangerous animal.
Now, to continue my routine of lessons, I always
caress and speak kindly. Cruelty and brute force only
develop the kicking habit, and have never been known
to cure it. I have seen brute force used by a great
many dealers and other so-called horsemen, and in-
variably they are compelled to employ thick leather
kicking-straps to prevent the horse from kicking too
high. As I once heard a dealer say, " He is bound down
to keep the peace/ 1 The kicking-strap is a preventive ;
when it is removed the horse kicks just as badly, and
he is never cured of this dangerous habit.
After I have " long-reined " him for a few days, I
harness him in a long-shaft kicking-cart and drive him
quietly in a field for not more than half an hour. The
88 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
old coper's practice of driving a horse fifty miles to tire
him out has ruined many a good animal, laminitis having
set in and proved fatal.
I always like to tackle a horse when he is in good
spirits and in good condition. He then becomes quieter
when he is in regular work. It is poor credit to a trainer
to tackle and break underfed, low-spirited colts, for
I have known them to turn out very troublesome after-
wards when well-fed and conditioned. After a few
drives in my long-shaft cart I drive the horse in a sulky,
and he hears his trainer's voice close behind him all the
time he is being driven. This inspires confidence, and
when once the animal has confidence in his master he
never kicks again. The master rein is very effective in
the case of a dangerous kicker.
The old saying, " When a horse once kicks he always
kicks/' is absurd, and those who thoughtlessly use the
remark are very poor specimens of horsemen. If a
horse kicks through fright it is a sure sign that he was
badly broken, and, of course, if the owner does not
know how to cure him correctly, and buys a kicking-strap
as a preventive, the horse will always kick. But give the
horse a course of my training, and I guarantee he will
never kick the second time. In the case of an old and
confirmed kicker who has mastered every owner he
THE NAPPY HORSE, OR JIBBER 89
has had, the kicker who was badly broken and who has
changed hands every week in the year, the kicker who
has been "spiffed," or drugged, and unscrupulously
placed in a horse repository for sale by a horse-coper
with a view to " catching a mug," all these could be cured
by my system ; but patience would be required, and the
horse who has been constantly drugged (to quieten it)
would not be worth curing. After all, the kicker is a
legacy of bad breaking, and the ignorance that exists
amongst the majority of horse-breakers to-day is sur-
prising. They have no scientific methods ; they are
too pig-headed to be told or to learn, and are content to
break valuable horses in a haphazard, careless way, their
only system being a long cavesson rein and a dumb
jockey.
THE NAPPY HORSE, OR JIBBER
Of all bad habits, jibbing is probably the most
exasperating. Nothing tires one's patience more than
to harness a horse in a hurry only to find that he is not
ready to start, and, what is more, not likely to be ready
for an hour or so.
Many drivers make the atmosphere warm by emit-
ting a volley of bad language and cracking the whip.
Others thrash the horse unmercifully, until the animal
90 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
becomes absolutely confused. It would be better, instead
of this stupid outburst of temper, to imitate Charlie
Chaplin or George Robey, and to slash the fence with
the whip ! The horse's confusion would change to
astonishment and he would probably move off.
Gentlemen of the coper fraternity resort to the snuff
method known as " spiffing " to start what is known as
a " nappy " horse (blowing black snuff into the left
nostril a very cruel practice), while some give an injection
of cocaine.
I have seen bad-tempered men tie a chain round
the horse's neck and drag him behind a cart until the
neck has been dislocated. Another old dealers' trick is
to harness the horse up in a field, place a truss of hay
about fifty yards away, and to leave the horse alone.
When he feels hungry he will walk towards the hay ;
but this method is forming a worse habit that of
running away and eventually the horse, when coaxed
to start, wants to run away, and is worse than ever, and
when stopped he resumes the jibbing.
My attention was called the other day by some
gypsies to a jibber they had ; he certainly was a bad
one, and gloried in being able to take a hard thrashing.
He was too old to coax, and he knew he could stand as
long as he liked.
Photo by] [Sport and General.
" THROWING." PULLING THE HORSE ON TO HIS SIDE.
Photo by] [Sport and General.
" THROWING." LYING ON HIS SIDE, QUIET AND COMFORTABLE.
THE NAPPY HORSE, OR JIBBER 91
I was rather amused when the gypsy lad informed
me that his father could do anything with a nappy
horse, and I remarked that he certainly could, but
apparently to no good end.
" How is it," I asked, " that when the horse stands
still you pet and caress him, and when he attempts to
move forward you thrash him ? It is only natural that
he prefers to stand still and receive the caresses instead
of the thrashing/'
The lad looked bewildered, but was apparently afraid
to tell his father, who was reciting " The Wreck of the
Hesperus " to the horse in about thirteen different
languages.
After studying all these methods for jibbers used by
many horsemen I have never heard or seen of any cure
resulting from them.
It is usually bad drivers who make horses nappy or
jibbers. This is especially the case when dealing with
a spirited youngster who, when he jumps forward,
receives a jerk in the mouth, and when he backs receives
the whip, and in his confusion he stands still or prances
up and down. Jibbing is a confused, inactive, and
almost insensible condition of the mind. The whip
fixes his mind, confuses him, and makes him all the
more insensible to his surroundings.
92 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
It is difficult to state the cause of this bad habit, but
many cases have been set up by sore shoulders and
the slippery London streets, where the horse is unable
to get a foothold on the tar-and-asphalt roads, eventually
falling to his knees when trying to start a heavy load. He
then becomes so nervous that he is afraid to move, and
feels much safer standing still. The jibbing habit is
soon developed at this stage. The streets nowadays are
made expressly for motor traffic, and the horse does not
even receive secondary consideration.
My methods for handling jibbers are quite different
to those already described. I teach the horse the
meaning of the commands, " Whoa ! " and " Get up ! "
when driving in long reins ; then, when I see by his
ears that he intends to stop, I give the command
" Whoa ! '" and a sharp jerk at the reins, by which
means he is stopped before he has the chance to pull
up of his own accord. This puts him into a thoughtful
mood, and when he hears the command " Get up ! " he
immediately starts forward. I make him stop at the
word " whoa/' and take him quite unawares every time.
I then use my master rein, and when he shows the
slightest sign of stopping I pull the rein and bring him
to his knees. When he rises I give a light stroke with
the whip and he jumps forward ; I give the command
THE NAPPY HORSE, OR JIBBER 93
" Get up ! " and at the same moment use the whip.
This is persisted in until I get the resistance out of him,
and then I harness up to my long-shaft cart.
I show him that I can bring him to his knees in the
shafts as well as out of the shafts. I always throw the
effect of the master rein into the driving-reins and voice,
and dispense with the master rein as soon as the aim
can be accomplished.
I carry my tackle with me and use it where I think
he will try to jib, showing him that I am master at all
times and places. I always keep my presence of mind,
and full attention is fixed upon my horse, his every
action being anticipated. The horse that has been
flogged by every master for years and years is so surprised
at this treatment, and at the absence of cruel usage of
the whip, that he finds it a pleasure to go.
The last horse I handled was an old jibber ; the
new owner was at a loss to do anything with him, and
he was advised to send him to me to be cured. I worked
the animal in the master rein and threw him several
times, and he was quite surprised, naturally expecting a
thrashing such as his new owner had already given him.
I did not confuse the horse, but surprised him, and
pleasantly at that, for when I harnessed him he reared
up and gave a big plunge into the air, then started off
94 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
at a good trot up a very steep hill. I called " Whoa ! "
at the top, but he tried to proceed, so I pulled him up
to rest. The same afternoon we balked potatoes up
with him, and he worked well. The owner took him
back, and he worked for the first week, when someone
forgot that the whip was his greatest enemy and lashed
him, by force of habit (for most drivers so use the whip),
and the horse stopped and refused to pull. I heard
that several carmen passing pulled up and helped the
unfortunate animal's driver to thrash him, but without
avail, and again the horse changed hands for better or
for worse.
In the case of a confirmed jibber, before harnessing I
use the master hand, as previously described. When he
is turning round, take the whip and give a few good,
determined strokes, at the same time giving the com-
mand, " Get up ! " This will make him remember what
" get up " really means. Then work him out with the
pulling-rope as already described. Let him pull back
and jump forward. Keep this on when you harness, and
have someone take hold and give a few good pulls ; he
will soon follow and begin to pull, without any adminis-
tration of the whip. I know a great many horsemen
who are of the opinion that they can drive a nappy
horse, but they invariably fail in their attempts, and the
THE NAPPY HORSE, OR JIBBER 95
horse is passed along to another of their friends. Then
the horse gets worse, having the satisfaction of mastering
each and every owner. I was going to say " master/'
but this would be wrong, so I will put " owner."
During my travels I once heard of a mare for sale.
The owner, a horse-dealer, had been upset, and had
notified his intention of selling her to various " hangers-
on " who touted to find customers (sometimes these
" would-be friends " are called " dragsmen ").
One of these gentlemen, thinking I was somewhat
simple, by my general demeanour, approached me and
asked if I wished to buy a real good mare. I said,
" Yes, I always like to buy a good one " ; and so I was
given the address of the horse-dealer. When I arrived
it was dark, and the mare was turned out in a field. I
had, of course, found out by this time the true facts,
otherwise I should have waited till daylight before I
made my purchase. However, the mare became my
property ; she was everything that could be desired,
according to the dealer ; in fact, she was perfect so he
said and I let him induce me to buy her. I knew he
was determined to sell her because she would not pull
his trap out of the yard, and she used to " run back "
and lead Mr. Dealer a pretty fine dance. Of course,
he did not know that I knew the truth about her. So I
96 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
bought her for a ten-pound note, and he smiled when
my sister and I took the mare away ; but I noticed a
long, strange look pass over his face the next market-
day when I drove the mare through the High Street
in my Stratford cart. After the confidence lesson the
pulling-rope was what I used to teach the mare not to
run back ; and a lesson in long reins soon put her right.
I sold her the following week to a friend who insisted
upon buying her, and tempted me with a very handsome
profit.
I have found that when I have been handling a bad
jibber, and have nearly got the upper hand of him, he
turns to kicking for a change ; but I always think this
is a good sign, and I then work him in long reins and tie
a few tin pans to his tail and let him have his kick out.
After all, this is only temper because he can see he is
being gradually made to pull and do as / wish. I do
not believe in pouring water down a jibber's ears, nor
do I agree with lighting fires under the animal to frighten
him into starting. Many horsemen resort to these
foolish methods for want of knowing better, and I hope
that when they read my system of handling a nappy
horse they will discontinue the old brute-force methods
and try kindness and common sense.
The way some horses are constantly kept in the stable
THE NAPPY HORSE, OR JIBBER 97
by some owners and well fed is enough to develop the
nappy habit ; and it is a wonder there are not more
nappy horses about. Some years ago I bought a very
nappy cob : he would not go. The way I broke him was
quite different from the method I have just described.
I think it will be worth while mentioning.
I left him without food for twenty-four hours ; I
then saddled him and rode him a few yards till he stopped.
I waited until he started ; directly he offered to start I
gave him a handful of bran which I kept in a nosebag
strapped around his neck. I taught him to go by
rewarding him for his every effort, but he received no
food when he jibbed. After he had trotted a hundred yards
I again rewarded him with bran, until he trotted half a
mile, and gradually increased the distance. I never
fed him in the stable. He was only fed after he had
done his work, and he used to go splendidly with the idea
of getting a feed.
I remember he was fed by mistake one morning in
his stall, and after his feed he refused to leave the stable,
and I had to train him all over again but it was easier
the second time.
I never used a whip, for it is the worst thing to apply
unless it is used at the right time. Some horsemen are
too fond of " steel-lined " whips, and carry the beastly
G
98 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
things with them wherever they go in case someone
steals it out of their cart. In consequence they hit
every horse they see in the sale-yard and frighten nervous
horses, and have been known to cause serious accidents.
The idea of the whip, in their estimation is to show people
they are connected with horse-flesh and that they know
how to " tickle one up the ribs." A good horseman
never carries a whip about with him. He only uses it
when necessary, and then with discretion.
Average horsemen all use the same absurd methods
with a jibber, and the horse gets used to them and
expects the same treatment ; he continues jibbing,
thinking that it is what is expected of him. The habit
sinks deeper and deeper into his mind until he will not
go at all. As proof of this, the horse that jibs will
usually go in double harness. Why ? Because as soon
as he is harnessed up the other horse starts, and Mr.
Jibber also starts with him, being surprised at not
having the " jibbing treatment " which has so often
been meted out to him.
Jibbers are not born : they are made by ignorant
so-called horsemen. I have never come across a colt
that jibbed naturally. He will usually pull when he
gets the idea, and if handled correctly will continue to
do so and become the slave of man till the end of his
BREAKING A RUNAWAY HORSE 99
days, when he is sometimes sold for a few pounds to a
cruel master instead of being peacefully laid to rest.
BREAKING A RUNAWAY HORSE
The runaway is a type of horse that should always
be avoided, and it is a dangerous task for any but a very
capable horseman to try to drive one. I have known
of several fatal accidents caused solely by incompetent
people attempting to do this. Some horsy men will
introduce a jaw-breaking bit with which to injure and
bruise the horse's mouth, whilst others employ two pairs
of separate reins, one pair for the unfortunate passenger
to hold in case the horse " takes the bit in his mouth "
and bolts. Other gentlemen of the coper fraternity will
nick the nostril or roof of the mouth with a sharp knife
and draw several pints of blood, thus rendering the horse
so weak that he can hardly stand up. This is when they
mistake a runaway for a case of megrims. (The more
fits of megrims a horse experiences the quieter he be-
comes. The first fit in a colt is awful to watch.)
My question is, do any of these horsemen's methods
actually break the habit of running away ? Of course
not. After all, it is only a habit that was caused probably
through an accident, or the neglect of unskilled horse-
men generally bad breaking and mouthing.
ioo HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
The thing is to break the habit, and not to break the
horse or his mouth. Horses soon form habits. " Get
over " in the stable, stopping at a familiar old inn, and
everything your horse does regularly are habits. Some
horses develop bad habits and are allowed to continue
in them, but if they are properly broken as colts and
trained they will not form bad ones. They will thoroughly
understand their masters and what is said by them.
To break a horse of the bolting habit it is necessary
first of all to make good friends, and show your animal
that you are his lord and master at all times. To do
this you must lay him down on the ground and make a
fuss of him, feed him with apples, sugar and bread. Then
allow him to get up, but continue to caress him. Re-
member he is a runaway, that he has never been taught
the correct meaning of the word " whoa/' and the
habit of stopping at command has not been developed.
In short, the schooldays were very brief and his lessons
were very poor ones ; his education has been neglected.
To continue the method of breaking, the horse is
harnessed in bridle and ordinary humane bit, with long
reins and surcingle, and is driven in a field, and the
" Whoa ! " is given at various points. When giving
this command I draw the reins tight and pull the horse
up, continuing this for half an hour to make him
Photo by] (Sport and General.
THE RUNAWAY HORSE. HE IS CHECKED BY THE MASTER REIN.
l>Itoto by]
[Sport and General.
THE I UNAWAY HORSE. SUBDUED AND READ V FOR THE COMMAND
" WHOA ! " (THE LATE EUSTACE BAVIN is SEEN ACTING AS ASSISTANT.)
BREAKING A RUNAWAY HORSE 101
understand the word " whoa." I then drive him in long
reins without the bit, and give the same command. I
always lay him on the ground before driving in long
reins. Then I harness him up and, using my master rein,
drive him in a field first, without a bit in his mouth,
the reins being buckled on the sides of the bridle. Then,
to begin with, I let him walk. He cannot "take the
bit in his mouth/ 1 or " grasp the bit, 1 ' because there is
no bit there. It is not the mouth we have to master,
but the horse's brain. He cannot reason, as some
people imagine, so I reason for him. His brain controls
his muscles, and his legs are the little gifts of Nature
with which he runs. Therefore I control his legs while
driving around the field. If he does not stop at once
when I say " Whoa ! " I just gently pull my master
rein, and he is brought to his knees (of course, knee-caps
are used). I give the command " Whoa ! " several
times and then allow him to rise and to continue his
little trot around the circle. He soon learns the meaning
of the command without the use of a brutal jaw-breaking
bit, which tears the cheeks, cuts the tongue, injures the
jaw and eventually numbs the mouth, so that when
the flesh becomes non-sensitive the horse can bolt quite
easily, because after this brutal and ignorant treatment
the tissues of the skin become so tough and callous
102 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
that no bit can hold him, and he is a confirmed
runaway.
After a drive in the field I take the horse on the road
for a ten-mile trip, using an indiarubber bit and my
master rein, and also kind words, and now and then I
say " Whoa ! " and give a reminder at the same moment
with the master rein ; the mere thought of falling to
his knees causes him to stop at once. This gradually
impresses his brain, and he soon learns the meaning of
the word " whoa/' Eventually the horse will always
stop at the command, and he has no desire to bolt.
It requires patience and kindness to bring about the
cure, but the trouble is always rewarded. The horse
in the illustration, when the photograph was taken,
was a bad runaway. No bit could hold him, and
the word " whoa " was foreign to him. An accident
as a colt first caused the trouble. The groom did his
best afterwards to cure him, but he was certainly a
failure. The groom would show him motor-cars to get
him accustomed to them, and drive him in a strong
bit and a bearing-rein, but the horse used to go off
just when he wanted to, in saddle as well as in the
dogcart.
To-day his mouth is light and perfect ; he does not
require the reins they are only a matter of form with
BREAKING A RUNAWAY HORSE 103
him. If he had not several bad scars, caused when he
bolted, he would be worth a hundred guineas. I used
the master rein at first, taught him to stop, then gradually
reduced the use of the master rein, depending on my
voice alone. I drive him with my voice. The only
fault is that when going through a busy thoroughfare I
have to think what I am saying to him. When I want
to go steady I have to say, " Steady, not so fast ! " If
I said " Whoa ! " I feel sure he would stop dead. But
he understands now that he has a friend and master, and
the voice is enough. He is the safest horse I have ever
driven.
Many runaway horses have I cured, including an
American trotting mare ; she used to bolt in a race,
and caused a great number of accidents. I took her from
the owner for three weeks ; he said he felt sure I should
never succeed. However, I did, and she raced several
times, never giving any trouble.
The master hand can be applied with great advantage
in most cases. If the runaway has broken loose from
a gate or post, work him in the pulling-rope ; then use
the master hand, and the more he tries to get away the
faster he whirls round and round. This scientific
method will soon break down the dangerous habit of
running away.
104 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
When I was out in Western Canada the farmer I was
harvesting for owned a runaway broncho cob. Every-
body there was afraid of it except the farmer's cowboy
son. He was not afraid of it, but admitted he could not
master the animal. I had heard all about the wonder-
ful horsemanship of the cowboy son. When he came
home I was expecting to learn a few wrinkles from him.
He rode the cob, and it ran away with him every time ;
fortunately the prairie is vast, and the broncho took him
for several miles, eventually exhausting himself. But
he would do the same thing when fresh again. The
cowboys seldom talk to their horses, have good seats
and bad hands. However, I took the broncho in hand,
made some tackle, and in two weeks I had the cob sub-
missive and ready to obey the command " Whoa ! "
The Canadians were surprised, for they usually think
that an Englishman is the biggest fool of all men with
horses. I felt proud then that I was an Englishman.
BITING AND SNAPPING
This habit is sometimes a legacy of teasing. The
rough use of a curry-comb on a horse with a delicate skin
will cause irritation and he will soon acquire the biting
habit. If the habit is not checked it impresses itself
deeper and deeper upon the horse's mind, until he
f
BITING AND SNAPPING 105
becomes a confirmed biter and has to be muzzled. The
muzzle is only a preventive and not a cure.
A good level-headed groom or horseman seldom
allows his horse to get into this bad habit, but some
grooms have been known to tease a good-tempered
horse to try and make him bite. In the initial stages
the Indian war bridle will bring about a speedy cure,
together with judicious grooming and firm, sensible
management.
I once had a very dangerous biter to handle. He
was placed in a large loose-box when he arrived. The
next morning I had a very difficult task to go into the
box with him, for he bit and fought at me with his
open mouth, savagely showing his teeth. He came from
a horse repository and was "spiffed"; the purchaser
did not know until the next day, when the horse took
a piece out of the carman's arm. I was immediately
consulted, and I instructed the owner to have the horse
sent to me, but he was at a loss to know how to get the
brute out of the stable. He was, however, advised to
"spiff " (drug) the horse so that he could send him safely
to my farm. (Chloral hydrate was given in a pail of
water when the horse was thirsty.)
I was certainly afraid to enter the loose-box alone
with this savage horse, so I got an old revolver loaded
io6 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
with blanks. I opened the door quickly, and as soon
as the animal made for me I fired the revolver in the
air three times, and took him absolutely by surprise.
Before he recovered from his little shock I slipped the
war bridle on in position for severe action. I gave a
few sharp jerks, and the horse stood quite still and
did not attempt to move. I gave him a short con-
fidence lesson until he followed me about the loose
box.
To make sure of giving him a thorough course of
treatment I applied the master hand. After this lesson
I tied him up in the loose-box but under the head-
collar I had the Indian war bridle fixed, and the end of
the rope was brought back and tied to the door, so that
when I entered the box I had only to take hold of the
rope and give a little jerk and the horse stood quite still
and did not attempt to bite. I kept this on for one week,
until he gave up the biting habit.
The next lesson was given while the horse was on
the ground. I threw him a few times to show that he
could be mastered without the aid of drugs, and at this
instance he was handled all over and thoroughly accus-
tomed to being touched. Upon rising he was quite calm,
and followed like a sensible animal.
9
It will be interesting and pleasing for the horse-
THE REARING HORSE 107
lover to know that the whip was entirely excluded from
the lessons given to this horse except, of course, the
confidence lesson. It took two weeks to bring about
the cure, and I am pleased to say it was a permanent
one, for my account was not settled until six months
after the horse had left my premises. By this time the
owner knew it was a certain cure.
THE REARING HORSE
This objectionable and dangerous habit is invariably
the result of bad training and breaking, and is almost
always traceable to careless mouthing. The colt should
always be taught gently to back without rearing. I
have found the long-rein lesson teach the colt to obey
the bit, and this lesson is usually enough to cure ordinary
cases of bit-jibbing and rearing. Rearing horses are
generally of a stubborn disposition. In bad cases I
use the master rein as illustrated.
The method of breaking a wine-bottle over the head
of a rearing horse is another absurd tactic employed by
brutal horsemen. The master rein is a certain cure ;
rearers are soon broken and corrected by this simple,
humane method. They soon give up when they drop
heavily upon the knees, and prefer to stand safely on
four legs.
io8 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
I had a bad rearer sent to me to break last year.
The peculiar thing about this horse was that as
soon as he saw the harness, especially the collar, he
would stand up straight on his hind legs, and although
not vicious, he was certainly dangerous, flinging his fore-
feet about wildly in all possible directions.
He had been twitched by previous owners, and ap-
parently to no good purpose. I had him led to the field,
and there I fixed the surcingle, long reins and master
rein without exciting the horse. I caressed him and
fed him with a few handfuls of oats. I then instructed
my assistant to carry the harness with collar foremost
towards the horse. Immediately he saw the harness he
reared up straight. I then pulled the master rein tight,
and drew his legs under his body so that when he came
down he landed heavily upon his knees. It took about
fifteen minutes to impress the horse that it would be
much more congenial for him to stand quietly. When
the harness was on I long-reined him, and reminded him
occasionally by a pull on the master rein. This scientific
method effected a permanent cure.
THE NERVOUS HORSE
Nervousness is not a vice but bears a great resemblance
to it at times. It oft-times renders an animal dangerous
SHYING 109
as if it were vicious, and this horse is consequently very
often misjudged. It is the result of ill-treatment at
some period of the animal's career. Kindness and
gentle handling can alone effect a certain cure. I have
seen women handle nervous horses with great success,
for women are kind and very patient, and horses take
kindly to them.
A gentle confidence lesson is as good as anything,
for when you gain his confidence he will soon show
marked signs of improvement.
SHYING
If the horse has been broken correctly he will never
develop this objectionable habit. Shying results from
three causes : bad breaking, nervous temperament, and
defective eyesight. For the latter there is generally no
cure. In this case blind winkers are necessary, but I
do not recommend them for horses with good eyesight.
If the habit is caused by nervousness much can be done
to cure it. Should the horse shy at small objects, such
as paper and dark patches, procure these articles
and place them in the circle and long-rein the horse;
let him see them and feel them. If the horse is
afraid of steam or motors, drive him in long reins as
directed in colt -training. A horse can think of only
no HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
one thing at a time, and while his mind is on the object,
and the driver uses the whip, he thinks it is the object
that inflicts the pain and not the whip. If he could
reason, he would know it was the whip that inflicted the
pain and not the object but the horse cannot reason.
After the horse has taken to shying he should be
thrown on the ground and shown all sorts of objects.
These objects, such as paper and sacks, should be laid
upon him, and he should be got quite used to them before
being allowed to rise. Umbrellas, flags, tin cans are
also useful. Then, when he ignores all the noises and
sights, drive him in long reins amid the objects and
noise of tin cans. Teach the command " Whoa ! " the
same as you would for a colt. If he is a grown horse,
use the master rein and bring him down upon the papers
and have someone to show them to him whilst he is on
his knees. Make him obey the word " whoa." When
driving on the road, stop and show him the objects he
is afraid of. Be patient and do not hurry him past
anything he is likely to shy at. Always use an open
bridle.
I once trained a colt for a lady a half-hackney
thoroughbred five years old and it was understood
that it should be taught not to shy or to take fright.
I worked in long reins as already described, and
Photo by] [Suort and General
THE REARING KORSE BEING DRIVEN WITH THE MASTER REIN.
Photo by] [Sport and General.
THE REARING HORSE FINDS THAT HE IS UNDER CONTROL.
[Facing p. HO.
Photo by]
[Sport and General.
THE REARING HORSE.
THE MASTER REIN IS NOW SEEN IN ACTION, CONTROLLING THE FORE-LEGS.
Photo by\
[Sport and General.
THE REARING HORSE.
THE MASTER REIN IS A CERTAIN CURE FOR REARING.
SHYING in
in addition I had some fireworks, such as squibs
and Chinese crackers, and my friend fired my gun
off. I got the colt so used to the noise that he
would lie on the ground without any harness on and
not attempt to get up. He was shown all the trains
and motors, and taken under a bridge for a lesson, where
he allowed the trains to go over without any commotion.
Then I took him on top of a bridge and let him see a
few trains pass beneath. I got him used to everything,
and he was never any trouble. Yet he was high-spirited,
very showy and full of courage. I should like to point
out that he was never frightened ; he was carefully
shown everything.
Never frighten a horse. Have patience, and show
him everything quietly, and he will soon learn not to
shy. When a horse is a confirmed shyer it is obvious
that at some time he has been frightened by the object
he shies at. I had a mare some years ago who would
pass everything with the exception of a three-wheeled
tricycle. I learned indirectly that one of these tricycles
had run into her and frightened her. I procured a
tricycle and placed it in a big loose-box with her, after
which I rested half a truss of hay on the seat and handle-
bars. The mare was kept short of food, so she ate the
hay afterwards to find underneath it a tricycle that
H2 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
she so much detested. She snorted and ran back, but
her next meal was placed on the tricycle just the same,
and she again ate it. Thus she gradually got used to
the old jigger and ignored it. The machine was then
placed in a yard and she was led past it several times.
The machine soon formed part of her daily life, and she
never shied again.
Chapter V
Dealers' Tricks and How to Avoid Them Type Conformation
Sound Legs Broken Wind The Roarer Unnerving The Use
of Drugs Advertising Unsound Horses The Age of the Horse
Bishoping Yorking The Oldest Horse The Story of Holly-
rood Alice The Way to Shoe a Horse that Brushes or Clicks
The Dragsmen Unveiled The Value of a Veterinary Surgeon
The Herring Head.
Chapter V
DEALERS' TRICKS AND HOW TO AVOID THEM
I HAVE promised to deal with the above, and if the
reader already knows how to judge a horse, or has no
intention of ever buying one, he will enjoy a quiet little
smile, and the reader who anticipates buying a horse will
not lose much by reading it carefully, studying the
artful tricks of dealers.
Little do novices in horseflesh know or think how
many tricks are resorted to by unprincipled dealers and
copers to hide the defects of a horse from the uninitiated.
The first thing to do when buying a horse is to make
sure that the horse you are looking at is the type of
breed required for the work and not to be put off with
something which is quite unsuitable.
First examine the eyes, and be sure to see your
reflection in them. A blind horse always lifts his legs
high and has uncertain action ; to the novice he looks
a good mover.
"3 H2
n6 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
The jaws should be roomy and free from glandular
swellings.
The neck should be muscular, and not level-necked
and unshapely, or too straight or " poky-necked/'
The shoulder should be high and sloping to the withers.
An upright shoulder is not suitable for a riding horse,
yet quite in place for a harness horse, but, as my father
used to say, " A good horse never has a bad shoulder."
Good width between the legs and depth of girth denotes
good lungs and a good heart. The back should be short,
especially in the riding horse. It should be somewhat
arched across the loins and the ribs should expand,
especially between the last rib and the hip. This is
called " well-ribbed-up." Loose ribs, long barrels,
swamp backs, and roach backs are unpleasant to the eye,
and no horse is pleasing to the eye that is unproportioned.
Long barrels are not unwelcome in the case of a brood
mare. The quarters should be round and full of muscle.
The hips should be well developed.
The Irish-bred horse usually has a low rump, and a
horse with a low rump and fairly high withers is usually
a good jumper. Horses with very low rumps are known
as " goose-rumped." It is essential that a horse wanted
for jumping should have short quarters, the thighs
muscular and extending to the back, which should
DEALERS' TRICKS 117
have a natural bend. Straight -legged horses are not
desirable. Avoid cow-hocks and bandy hocks I don't
know which is the worst. The hock should be large and
clean and fine, free from curbs, spavins and thoroughpins.
The points of the hocks should be in a straight line
with the back of the quarters. Capped hocks are not
to be avoided, as most vets, will pass them. The knee
should be large and slightly convex, with plenty of bone
below the knee ; this means that the bone under the
knee should not be pinched or in any way slender.
The tendons should be clean and not soft or puffy.
The pasterns should never be too long or sloping, but
short pasterns with a slight slope are most desirable.
The foot should be round and not narrow or contracted.
The forelegs should be free from splints, side-bones and
ring-bones. It would be as well to bu^ a veterinary book
and study these bony substances.
Horses that stand with their legs " under them " may
be suspected of kidney or spine trouble. A dealer will
always hold this sort of horse's head high up, and also
make the horse stand on high ground to hide any defects
on the forelegs or pastern joints. If the dealer won't let
the horse stand naturally have nothing to do with it.
Always examine for broken wind, and the nostrils to see
if they have been plugged with a lump of cottonwool
n8 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
to prevent the snot from running down if he is a
"wet wid " (or a gl and ered subject) : a broken-winded
or wet wid runs at the nose. A " dry wid " coughs a
harsh, husky cough. The dealer then gives a nice
drink of glycerine, olive oil and cod-liver oil. This
drink comforts the horse and temporarily prevents him
coughing. Little food is given, to prevent the distended
stomach from filling and coming in contact with the lungs.
The old method of loading with lead to weight the
stomach down to prevent it touching the lungs is out of
date now, and linseed oil clogs the lungs, so the first
three named ingredients are the best and have been
known to deceive the very elect. The best way to detect
a " wid " is to " cough him " ; that is, by pinching
the windpipe immediately behind the jaw. If the
horse gives a long sharp cough he is sound in this respect.
But if the cough be husky, short and hollow, his lungs
are obviously defective and he is classed as broken-
winded or a " wid."
Then watch the flank in breathing. If the belly
swells out and the inspirations and expirations are
regular, then the animal has good wind ; but if irregular,
and it stops before it is completed and heaves a good
deal, then the horse is broken-winded. Broken-winded
horses are usually good ones or were at one time,
DEALERS 1 TRICKS 119
before they were overdriven on a heavy meal. Again
the horseman is to blame, for over-driving or over-
riding. And the favourite horse, instead of being put
to rest, is sold to a dealer, who gives him a drink to
effect a temporary cure and places him in a fair or a
repository. His dragsmen are on the lookout for the
unwary " the mugs/' as they call them and they are
bluffed into buying the miserable brute. The temporary
cure " sets a wid " for about two days. When the new
owner learns, to his astonishment, that he has bought
a broken-winded horse he is anxious to get rid of it.
The dragsmen are close handy, and they buy it back for
a small sum, and again the unfortunate wid is " set "
and resold to some other poor, unsuspecting fool.
Another artful catch (much resorted to by copers and
their dragsmen who infest the sale-yards) is to place a
wid horse in a repository with a glowing warranty and
a big reserve. The horse is not sold, and a " sham "
is put up to take the horse home. But the dragsmen
find a fool who has been looking for a bargain ; he refers
to the catalogue and is impressed with the warranty.
A drink is suggested in " the little pub. round the
corner/' but the misguided purchaser realises too late
that the warranty is purely a fake, the sale having been
effected outside the repository and not intra muros.
120 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
My readers may save several pounds if the following
warning is given and advice taken.
I am mentioning this for the benefit of women who
are sometimes compelled to send their horses to public
auctions. When a genuine horse is sent for sale and
correctly warranted, it is sometimes bought by a
certain type of dragsmen, taken home, and tried for the
warranty. In the course of the trial the unscrupulous
rogue purposely lames the horse, and obtains a vet/s
certificate ; the horse is returned for being lame, the
nervous owner is notified that the horse has been returned
lame, with vet/s certificate, and speedily visits the
repository. But the journey is a fruitless one, for the
dragsmen succeed in " putting the wind up " the excited
and distressed owner, and eventually buy the supposed
" lame " horse for a few pounds.
Always have your horses properly " vetted " before
sending them to public auction sales, anc 1 lodge the
certificates with the auctioneers. This precaution is
poisonous to the dragsmen.
The roarer, whistler or piper should be avoided. To
examine one, place him alongside a wall, hold his head
up with the left hand, and with the right hand feign or
pretend to strike it along the ribs or belly. If he grunts
at the stick he is a roarer or a " bull " ; if he jumps
DEALERS 1 TRICKS 121
wildly around, sobbing and drawing, he is a whistler or
piper. A good gallop is the best test for both broken-
winded and roaring horses. Examine both forelegs, and
if there are many bony deposits such as ring-bones,
splints, side-bones, or the hoof contracted and of bad
shape, and yet the animal moves soundly, be suspicious
of " unnerving." Take an ordinary pin and prick the
legs. If the horse fails to move and cannot feel, be
sure he has been " undone/' or " unpropped," as the
copers term it, and don't buy him. If the horse has a
sleepy-looking appearance, examine his hind legs for
fullness and capped hocks ; if you discover his hind legs
are blemished be sure he is a kicker and has been spiffed
or drugged. This is done by giving a one-ounce ball of
chloral hydrate or one ounce of tincture of opium a
very favourite trick of London copers.
When speaking of horse-coping, I use the term
"Charting/' No doubt my readers have read attrac-
tive advertisements in the papers of the following
style :
" For Sale. A pair of handsome Chestnut Geldings,
seven years old. Quiet in single and double harness,
regularly driven together, winners of many prizes.
Property of a gentleman. Every warranty and trial
given. Apply COACHMAN -."
122 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
This is called " out to catch a mug/' and is generally
done by horsey-looking gentlemen who are here to-day
and gone to-morrow.
There are usually three partners. The assumed
Cuthbert buys some horses with showy action, fresh legs
and broken wind. Gerald hires or buys a carriage for
a few shillings, also some harness. Bertie hires a stable,
generally in a small mews in the West End, and he ad-
vertises the horses in all the leading papers. Cuthbert
engages fashionable apartments and assumes the name
of Major Cuthbert Lawson, D.S.O. Bertie acts as the
groom. The bait is set and they await the arrival of
Billy Muggins. Muggins rolls up at the mews. Bertie
touches his cap very politely and shows Muggins
the horses. Muggins, presuming he is doing something
smart by calling at the mews unexpectedly, slips half-a-
crown in Bertie's hand, thinking some news about the
horses is forthcoming.
" What sort of gees are they, old fellow ? Are they
quiet ? Do you know anything wrong with them ? If
you tell me, and I buy them, you shall have a box of
Corona cigars, my good man. 1 '
" No ... I don't know anything wrong, sir, but if
I tell you, promise not to say a word."
Billy Muggins thinks he is now in for some good
DEALERS' TRICKS 123
information and slips another half-crown into Bertie's
clutching hand.
" Well, sir, the off-side horse won't drink out of a
pail, and we always have to lead him outside to drink."
Gerald now comes along in full-dress livery. " Come
on, Bert, the boss wants the phaeton at once."
Then Gerald, artfully pretending not to have noticed
Muggins, says : " Good-morning, sir."
Muggins says, " Oh, are you the coachman ? I
have come to see the horses advertised."
" Yes, sir ; the boss has got to join the regiment and
has to catch the next train. You can ride with me and
see how well they go, sir."
Muggins enjoys his little ride to Cuthbert's apart-
ments. Cuthbert rushes off in a hurry to catch his
train. He invites Muggins to ride with him and see
the horses' fine action. When he arrives at the station
he instructs Gerald to drive Muggins back to any part
of London he wishes. The bait is swallowed. The kid
is great. Cuthbert keeps the conversation going about
the horses, and before parting on the platform Muggins
gives Cuthbert his cheque, and a receipt and warranty
is duly given. Gerald has orders to take the horses to
Muggins' stables. Cuthbert takes a ticket to the Bank
instead of Aldershot. The cheque is cashed. The
124 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
carriage returned, the stables are vacated, also the
apartments ; the horses are fed highly on corn and
chaff, and plenty of hay and plenty to drink. Then
Muggins proposes a drive, and gives his new steeds a
good trot through the Park, when suddenly the gees
begin to make an awful noise. He consults his coachman,
who pronounces them as broken- winded. Muggins goes t o
Cuthbert's apartments but finds that the bird has flown.
A few days pass, and a rough-and-ready young fellow
hears that Mr. B. Muggins has two horses for sale because
they are broken- winded, and he tells Mr. Muggins he
has a farm and will give the horses light farm work,
being a discharged soldier (when really he was " on
the run "). He would like them cheap, and he succeeds
in getting them for a mere song. But they do not go
on the farm. They have a nice drink, with little or
no food, and are placed in a repository as the property
of Lord Neverdrop. Cuthbert runs them up to one
hundred guineas, and they are knocked down to another
young mug, who thinks that because that horsy-looking
gentleman bid so much for them he has not given too
much by giving a fiver more.
There is another advertiser who advertises " Active
cart-horses mares in foal must be sold through death."
Juggins calls to see the horses, and the lady, or the
DEALERS' TRICKS 125
widow (?) who is watching proceedings, says, "No, Jim,
don't sell him ; he was the old guv'nor's favourite horse.
We ought never to part with him/'
Upon hearing this Juggins insists upon buying him,
not knowing he has bought a cripple who has been
levelled up for the occasion, viz., by striking the sound
foot with a hammer to render it lame, like the unsound
foot, thus making the animal go level and apparently
sound. Giles, from the country, then calls to see the
in-foal mares, and he is shown two old broken- winded,
pot-belly mares. These he is told proved in foal after
they came from Scotland, and Giles is tempted to buy
them much to his regret, for after foaling season he can
see how he has been bitten.
A great many horsemen, and veterinary surgeons too,
have been deceived when buying a horse with regard to
his age. Experience and experience only teaches how
to tell a horse's age. I always examine a horse's teeth
and afterwards ask the correct age if I know the owner
has bred the animal ; and by constantly practising I
can sometimes tell the age of any horse up to thirty years.
Many buyers are deceived when they visit Barnet fair ;
they are shown a sturdy cob and told by the dealer that
he is just five years old, having a nice full mouth, when
really he is only two years old. The buyer, through
126 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
lack of experience, forgets to observe that the tush has
not yet put in an appearance. In the case of a mare,
the dealer has it all his own way but to the experienced
eye the two-year-old mouth differs vastly to that of the
five-year-old mouth.
Many unprincipled dealers have a rascally trick of
sawing off an aged horse's teeth, making holes in
the crown, and then pin-firing the holes to imitate the
natural marks of a six-year-old horse. This is known as
" bishoping," because the first gentleman to introduce
the vile operation was Mr. Bishop.
I saw a horse only recently who had been bishoped.
He was old in appearance, and upon examining his
mouth I saw that his top row of teeth were longer than
the lower set, and instead of the crowns being an oblong
shape, like a natural six-year-old, I noticed that they
were round, for as the horse grows older the top of the
tooth or the crown gradually becomes round in shape
and the marks disappear ; that is to say, the cavities, or
cups, fill up. Hundreds of horses were bishoped during
the war days, and sold to the army buyers as six-year-old
horses. I saw dozens at the many remount sales I
visited. Some had been cleverly bishoped, whilst others
had been roughly done by less experienced masters of
the wicked art.
DEALERS' TRICKS 127
" Yorking " is another practice resorted to by
dealers. When a colt is three years old the dealer will
punch out the middle nippers and so hasten the develop-
ment of the four-year-old teeth. At eight years the
marks are all worn away, and the age is then told by
the angle and shape of the teeth. The teeth do not grow
long, as imagined by some people, but the gums shrink
and give the tooth a longer appearance.
With regard to the age of the horse from a buyer's
point of view, my experience is that a horse eight
years is in his prime, providing he has not been
crippled by work when a youngster. A ten-year-old
horse, sound and healthy, is the most reliable for a carter.
Age does not determine everything, as the majority of
people seem to think. I have seen good horses over
twelve years, horses that have won races and jumping
competitions ; in fact, a well-matured horse, to my
thinking, is more suited for his work than a young horse.
My old trotting stallion, George Hummer, was thirty
when he died, and only two weeks prior to his death he
had kept company with a few good-class Welsh cobs on
the London road. Yes, even in his old days it took a
very fast horse to pass him.
Records of life are always interesting to the true
lover of the equine animal. A ten-hand Shetland pony
128 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
belonging to Mr. W. C. Blackett, a mining engineer, was
put to work in the Kimbleside pit in 1876, when he was
five years old, and was employed there for twenty-two
years. During that period he was never sick or sorry,
and had only two holidays, one of six weeks in 1879 and
the other of thirteen weeks in 1892, the respites in
question being due to the existence of strikes. Hard
work, however, did not affect this pony in the least, as
he was equal to winning third prize in the pit -pony class
at Durham in 1896.
Another very similar instance of a horse which
thrived upon a life of hard work is that of Jack. This
horse, however, is not environed by any shadow of
romance. His record is simply one of twenty-two years'
regular work in the Keswick and Ambleside coach.
When he was last heard of he was twenty-six years 1 old.
A veritable equine Methuselah was Old Bill, the
property of the late Mr. S. Francis Petrie, of Edinburgh.
This horse lived for sixty years, being shot in the end
on the death of his master. Old Bill was worked gently
up to the last, and it is reputed of him that his temper
was at no time amiable. No doubt can be entertained
regarding the accuracy of the above statements, as they
were supplied by an eminent veterinary surgeon whose
father had attended Old Bill for nearly half a century.
DEALERS' TRICKS 129
There is in existence a portrait of the horse painted when
he was fifty-six years of age.
Before concluding this chapter I should like to retail
an American story which will show that even in America
you have to keep a watchful eye when buying a horse,
especially a pacer.
Buying pacers is a disease. When the germ gets
under the skin there is no cure. A swish of speed with
a snap of the hopples will twist a roll out of an inside
pocket quicker than a ten-to-one shot with Danny
Lambeth in the field.
The last sample was found in New Jersey. When
the autumn fairs were almost over, a little mare, with
a faded coat and a thin tail, appeared at a track near
Newark. For a few days she ate her hay and oats with-
out attracting the attention of anyone, except the man
who collected the stall rent.
One crisp morning when a few of the rail-birds were
sunning themselves near the grand-stand, the little
mare appeared. After the usual jog she whizzed away
from the wire and flashed by the quarter-pole close to a
two-minute gait. After a breather and a few short
scores she stepped a half in 1-05.
The watch-snappers buzzed like a swarm of bees.
In a few days all the Jersey horse-owners that were
130 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
interested in pacers knew that the little faded mare
would show a mile in 2*10 over a two-lap track for a
certain figure.
The lure brought lookers. They were followed by
buyers. Finally one of the latter exchanged $1800
for a halter with the little mare on the end of it.
Next morning there was a new boarder at Tommy
Berry's training camp at Remington. Berry was in
the west, racing. A letter advised him of the find, and
at the tail end of a hard season he dreamed of another
Ella Ambulator or June Bug.
When Berry returned to Flemington, the anxious
owner met him at the depot with a high-powered car.
All the State road laws were broken on the trip to the
track, while Tommy was fed on visions of the coin which
the new pacer would gather in 1922.
The embryo star was led out for inspection.
" How do you like her ? " came the query, like a
shot from an automatic.
" Good," said Tommy. " But you cannot work that
one over/ 1
' What do you mean ? " said the anxious owner,
with a dangerous look in his eye.
" Only that you cannot repeat in this game," said
Berry.
DEALERS' TRICKS 131
" Can't what ? " said the owner.
" Why, don't you know her ? " said Tom. " That
mare has a mark of 2-o6J. You owned her when she
made it. She is Hollyrood Alice, with her tail thinned
and her coat bleached."
" The mare you raced for me ? "
" The same," said Tommy.
A few days later it was learned that Hollyrood Alice,
after a trip across the Atlantic, had been returned,
ostensibly for another trip in the slow classes under a
faded coat. Failing in that, after a few feelers had been
thrown out, she was sold by coincidence to her former
owner.
Always pay careful attention when examining a
horse's legs that they have not been fired for any old-
standing complaint.
If the shoe is worn at the toe look out for old sprains
in the back tendons.
Always remember that a sound horse wears his shoes
down as level as a sixpence all round.
A horse that brushes behind can easily be altered or
cured by having a shoe made the same thickness at the
toe as the outside heel, and setting up the inside heel
with a feather edge the result being a wider gait in
the hind action. A horse that clicks, or forges, can
132 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
be cured by shoeing with a heavy shoe in front and
a light shoe behind.
Of course, dealers always have their horses well shod
by an expert farrier, and when the new owner takes the
horse to be shod at the village blacksmith's, and ordinary
shoes are fitted, they begin to wonder what is wrong
when the horse begins to brush, speedy cut or click.
I could relate many more instances that would open
the eyes of the unwary, but I think I have said enough
to show that a man when buying a horse at a fair, re-
pository, or from an advertisement, should not do so
with his eyes closed. It is always best to have a week's
trial and a practical veterinary surgeon's advice.
Horses with large heads that are out of proportion
to their bodies should be avoided, for the head governs
the body. I always admire a small head " Herring
head/ 1 lean and uniform for such a head denotes
intelligence and docility, and when a body is governed
by such a head you can depend the animal will be a
sensible one. A horse with a big head is usually stubborn
and lacks average intelligence.
Chapter VI
Shoeing a Vicious Horse The Horse that " Paws " During the Night
The Horse that Will Not Lie Down The Fence-jumper-
When Difficult to Crupper The Stable-kicker A Difficult
Horse to Mount The Tongue-loller The Side-puller The Way
to Groom or Dress a Vicious Horse The Tail-switcher The
Use of Gag-bits Irish Martingale The Over-check The Wind-
sucker Stabling Colts The Temperature The Way to Drive
a "Puller" A Cruel Twitch.
Photo by\ Sport and General.
THE NERVE-FRESSURE BRIDLE. THIS NOVEL DEVICE IS QUITE UNNECESSARY
WHEN THE COLT IS CORRECTLY MOUTHED.
PJwto by]
[Sport and General,
TAKING THE PULSE.
CAPTAIN A. V. MEEKE, M.R.C.V.S., AND THE AUTHOR.
Chapter VI
LITTLE THINGS WORTH KNOWING
IT is as well to know and remember, when your
horse is vicious or difficult to shoe, that the Indian war
bridle and master hand will subdue him.
When he has a nasty habit of pawing in the stable,
buckling a strap above the knee and tying a small log
of wood to it, allowing about six inches of play, will
correct him.
When the horse will not lie down at night, put a
strong cord in his tail and hang a ten-pound weight to it
about sixteen inches from the ground. The weight
will tire him, and he will soon lie down to rest.
If the horse jumps fences when turned out, buckle a
strap round about the knees, tie a rope to the ring in
one strap, pass it through the girth of belly-band of
the surcingle and tie the end to the other leg strap.
The rope should be long enough to enable the horse to
walk freely, and no longer.
When the horse is bad to crupper, use the master
135
136 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
hand, and then put the Indian war bridle on ; give a
few sharp jerks, and he will soon give up. Administra-
tion of the whip is useless.
If the horse kicks in the stable, hang a sack of straw
behind him, allowing plenty of room, and let him kick
himself tired. A good plan is to tie a strong piece of
half -inch wide elastic round above the hock joint. When
he lifts his legs to kick, the elastic tightens, and this
attracts his attention to something else.
When the horse is bad to harness or to mount, the
master hand or strait jacket will quieten him.
When the horse lolls his tongue or allows it to hang
out of his mouth, take a straight bar bit, file it flat two
inches in the centre, and sew a stout piece of leather
over the flat surface. Drive him in the bit until cured.
When the horse dangerously gets cast in his stall,
sew a D ring in the top of the head-collar ; tie a rope
to the D, and fasten the end of the rope to a beam in the
roof, slightly slanting back towards the shoulder. With
this he can move freely and lie down, but he cannot get
the top of his head down on the ground.
If the horse is a side-puller, which is a most ex-
asperating habit, have a plain snaffle-ring bit made with
one side of the mouthpiece a half-inch shorter than the
other. If the horse pulls to the near side, place the
LITTLE THINGS WORTH KNOWING 137
short side of the mouthpiece to that side, and vice verscl ;
this will keep his head straight, or a Sharlinski "side-
pulling " bit is effective.
If the horse bites when being groomed, take a large
nosebag, pad the sides with hay and put it over the
horse ; he cannot hurt you then. If he is a very bad
one, tie both sides of the head, one rope to the extreme
right and the other rope to the left, put the pulling-
rope on, and then if he runs back he will not get away.
Strap his near foreleg up and he will be quite all right.
A side line can be used to lift his hind legs up. Always
keep at the side of him. When he has once jumped
back into the pulling-rope he will be afraid to move
again. A cradle is a useful appliance to prevent a horse
biting round at you.
When you buy a new horse, never put him in harness
the first time without long-reining him and finding out
if he has any concealed vices. If this had been done
more often, many a patent-leather dashboard would
have been saved.
If the horse switches his tail and is likely to get the
rein under, take a piece of leather four inches wide and
twelve inches long and sew a crupper to it ; have a
small pocket sewn at the bottom end, large enough to
hold one pound of lead shot ; sew three straps across the
138 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
piece of leather ; buckle the horse's tail down with the
straps and pull the hair out and so hide the device.
This will soon cure the habit. Another way is to have
a strap fastened to the crupper and taken down to the
breeching. Then strap the tail to it. Drive the horse
with the Indian war bridle under the ordinary bridle ;
have the rope with you in the trap and give a few jerks
every time the horse tries to switch his tail.
Do not use gag-bits, they only irritate and injure the
mouth and never really stop a runaway or a bad puller.
A nose-strap is just as cruel as the net one so often
sees on a puller. These devices cause temporary suffo-
cation, and are therefore cruel, and horse-lovers use them
in sheer ignorance. The " Two in one " bit is becoming
very popular, and is quite humane.
The Irish martingale is very effective for a head-
thrower two rings joined by three inches of leather on
the reins sliding about behind the jaw.
Never use a bearing-rein. An over-check is more
humane and effective.
If the horse is a wind-sucker he can be checked by
having a hollow bit placed in his mouth whilst in the
stables. A tube with a few holes drilled in it will suffice.
This is better than using a tight neck-strap, which is
also a cruel practice.
LITTLE THINGS WORTH KNOWING 139
When stabling a horse brought in from the fields, do
not confine him in a warm box or close stable, as he
will contract a cold or strangles. Always use a well-
ventilated stable with door open, but avoid a draught.
Never work a horse with a temperature ; if this is
done pneumonia will be sure to follow.
When you wash a horse's legs, always dry and hard-
rub them.
Have the shoes removed every four or five weeks.
Never start a horse upon a long journey with a full
stomach ; go slowly for the first few miles, and allow
the horse to walk at intervals.
After a very fast drive or ride home, give a good
straw whisking without too much " hissing." Pull his
ears until they are warm and dry.
Remember that accidents will happen, and careless-
ness is no excuse.
If the horse is a puller, use a straight -bar double-ring
bit ; have the bar well covered with chick leather or
indiarubber to fill the mouth, and drive on the single
rings. A steady hold of the reins checks a strong puller
without injuring his mouth. I have used this bit on
bad pullers where ordinary snaffle-bits and Liverpool
bits were useless. The Liverpool bits with curb chain
only punish and cause a puller to pull harder, and he
140 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
gradually gets worse and worse. Sometimes a plain
leather bit or half-cheek trotting-bit suits a puller better
than anything. But owners are afraid to try one,
thinking that if a Liverpool bit cannot hold, what use
would a leather bit be ? The old saying, " The more
you pull at a tree the more you may pull," applies
equally to the pulling horse.
I was surprised once when I saw the late Walter
Winans driving his beautiful trotter Doctor Work at
Parsloes Park. My attention was drawn to the bit he
was using. The cheeks of the bit were somewhat formid-
able, and different from the ordinary trotting-bit. I
decided to go quietly and examine the bit after Doctor
Work was unharnessed. To my pleasant astonishment
I saw that the bit was thickly padded with rubber,
and the inside of the cheeks was cushioned. Mr. Winans
told me that he thought the formidable cheeks looked
more majestic and better than a simple single ring as
generally seen on the trotting-bit, and he had once seen
a delicate bit break in a race, and, being a great advocate
for safety, he had the bit in question made to his design.
At his sale at Aldridge's there were something like a
hundred different bits. Yet it was impossible to find
a cruel jaw-breaking bit amongst them.
Do not buy a pony for economy's sake, thinking that
LITTLE THINGS WORTH KNOWING 141
he will eat less than a cob. Invariably I have found
that, while a pony will always have his head in the manger,
a fifteen-hand cob is patient and more easily satisfied.
A horse's head should always be tied up after a
blister.
Never put a twitch on the ear (a common and cruel
practice), for it injures the base of the ear. Use the
Indian war bridle.
Disinfectants should always be kept handy and
applied when necessary.
Grooms should not be allowed to drench a horse unless
instructed to do so by a veterinary surgeon.
The most valuable precaution in the writer's opinion,
and the most economical, is to take the advice of a
veterinary surgeon as early as possible in all cases of
sickness, for when it is too late for him to be able to give
any assistance there is no satisfaction given to anybody.
Chapter VII
Training a Horse to Perform To Teach High-school Gaits To Teach
a Horse to Kneel To Teach a Horse to Pose The Pivot Act To
Teach a Horse to Say " Yes " And " No " Teaching to Jump
To Teach a Horse to Stand Erect To Teach a Horse to
Take a Handkerchief out of the Coat-pocket To Carry an
Article in the Mouth Teaching to Kiss Teaching to Mount a
Pedestal Teaching to Teeter-Totter Teaching to Subtract
The Cruel Practice of Docking.
Chapter VII
TRAINING A HORSE TO PERFORM
MUCH has been written of late upon the Performing
Animals Act. Personally, I do not see why a horse
should not be trained to perform clever tricks any more
than being cruelly overworked in a heavily-laden van.
In this chapter I am going to tell my readers exactly
how horses are taught tricks. Most people think that
circus and performing horses are exceptionally clever.
This is not the case ; any horse can be taught tricks.
The most suitable horse for educating is a highly-bred
horse about six or seven years old.
The system of using a pin when teaching a horse to
say " yes " or " no " may be considered cruel by narrow-
minded people. These I should like to introduce to the
owner of the hunter, the point-to-point, or the cross-
country horse, for, after the race, the wounds inflicted
by the severe use of the spurs are far worse, and in my
opinion cruel, compared with the simple pin-touch used
when teaching tricks. I have seen hunters after finishing
145 K
146 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
in a cross-country point-to-point race absolutely roll
and almost drop from sheer exhaustion, and their flesh
has been ripped open by the spurs. If a horse cannot
be made to race by fair means, such as a light whip, I
think he should be sold for slower work, if it necessitates
him being unmercifully punished by indiscreet use of the
spurs. I myself have never worn a pair of spurs while
riding ; I used to wear them when in the Army, but
never " rode " with them. I could always get enough fun
without using spurs. When this cruel practice has been
gone into, it will be time enough to interfere with
trainers of performing horses.
After all, it would not do to cruelly spur or bleed a
horse if you required him to learn a trick. Kindness
and patience are the only means of gaining his attention
and confidence ; but to gallop a horse to death and rub
it in with spurs is absolutely the worst form of cruelty
displayed by men who profess to be horse-lovers.
An accelerator is all very well when applied to a
motor-car but not to flesh and blood.
TO TEACH HIGH-SCHOOL GAITS
The value of a saddle-horse can be greatly enhanced
if he is taught to change gait, or shown the way to do
the high-school trot.
TO TEACH HIGH-SCHOOL GAITS 147
Probably the most admired are the fancy high steps.
These are the park walk, park trot and Spanish trot.
The park walk has the same diagonal motion of the legs
as the flat walk, but the knee and hock action has been
cultivated until the forearm of the front legs reaches
out parallel to the body, and the knee and hock greatly
flex.
To get the action, proceed as follows. Turn the horse
around in the stall so that he can neither back nor get
away sideways. Put the riding bridle on him, so that
you will have control of both bits. Stand on the left
side of the horse, just in front of the shoulder, and with
your left hand seize the right reins about four inches
back of the bits. With the crop or riding-whip in the
right hand, tap the horse's left leg at the knee or above,
just as you pull his head slightly to his right.
The pull on the head throws the weight on the right
foot and the tap on the left causes him to strike out
with a pawing motion. This is the first act leading to
the high park walk. Repeat with the same leg until he
will strike forward with it at a very slight tap and pull
on the rein.
A gentle stroke on the neck with the palm of the hand
should reward him whenever he responds with good and
immediate action. Tap him severely if he refuses to
148 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
respond. Lighten the stroke as he shows more readiness
to respond.
As soon as he responds quickly with a light action
on the left leg, step to the other side, seize the left rein
with the right hand and with the crop in the left proceed
as with the other leg. Be satisfied, at first, with a
pawing motion of each leg, without the horse stepping
forward. Keep well to the side, as some horses will
strike viciously when they do strike, and you will need
to use caution to keep from getting struck with their
front feet.
After the horse has learned to strike forward
with the right foot, step again to the left of the horse,
as described in the first position, except at this time
seize all four reins in the left hand and strike first
the left leg and then the right leg of the horse, making
him respond with first one, then the other. The left
hand can assist by moving the head first one way, then
the other, to throw the weight off the foot to be raised.
After a few trials the horse will strike forward with
each foot alternately, as signalled. If you should drill
the horse in this too long, the trick would end here and
could be carried no further. After accomplishing this
much, the horse must be kept progressing toward the
final goal.
TO TEACH HIGH-SCHOOL GAITS 149
As he now strikes forward with the left leg, pull
forward on the bit to keep him on his foot, as in a step.
A tap on the right leg, just as the left strikes forward,
will aid him to set his left and keep the stride, and when
he strikes forward with the right a pull on the bit and
stroke on the left leg will set the right, and so on.
When he first steps forward with a high step
with his front legs he will stretch forward and have
trouble in bringing the hind legs up. This he will soon
learn.
Pouches carrying two or three pounds of shot each,
buckled around each hind pastern, will assist him to lift
the hind legs high. Do not leave these on more than
ten or fifteen minutes at a time, for they are very
wearisome.
As soon as the horse begins to go forward the
work can be done outside the stall preferably against
the side of a building, where he cannot get all round
you.
These lessons should not last more than fifteen or
twenty minutes at a time, but may be taken up six or
eight times a day, if desired. It will take much patience,
and progress will seem slow, but do not be in a hurry.
In training horses it does not pay to get in a hurry to
finish.
150 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
As soon as the horse steps forward promptly at a
light tap of the whip, with each leg alternately and
you standing at his left, it is time to transfer the action
to the saddle. Place a boy or an assistant in the saddle ;
standing by the left shoulder, seize the reins at the
withers with your left hand, and start him high-stepping
with the whip held in your right hand. In a few moments,
with you working from the ground in this manner, you
can mount him yourself and use the whip by swinging
the right hand first from one side, then the other. Soon
the touch of the toes against the front leg will cause him
to step high.
After some practice a touch with the toes will
start him and a light twitch of the reins will keep him
at it.
It is sometimes quite a help when beginning this work
to place a board on the ground so that the horse will
strike it when he paws. The sound of the foot striking
the board seems to help the horse to raise his legs higher.
In riding the park walk, keep both reins drawn close
and the hand down on the withers. The horse's nose
should be drawn close to the shoulder. When he gets
the idea, it is best to take another gait out some distance
from the stable and work the horse back towards the
stable. In all the gaits it pays to work toward home, as
TO TEACH HIGH-SCHOOL GAITS 151
the horse is anxious to go home and will be free in his
motions.
After the horse goes well in the park walk, it is an
easy matter to throw him into the high or park trot.
Just as you turn toward the stable, after having
given the signal for the park walk, give him a stroke
with the whip, at the same time lifting his front quarters
off the ground with the reins.
Reaching out as he should to make a high step, this
will throw him off the ground and start the high trot.
It is much easier to start from a turn, and should be
repeated as a turn is made before attempting it on the
continued straight course.
Attaching leather pouches filled with four pounds of
shot to each leg will cause a horse to lift his legs high, but
they should never be left on more than ten minutes at a
time, and should be well padded on the inside to prevent
rubbing the hair off.
Walking and trotting a horse through loose straw
fifteen or eighteen inches deep, helps to develop the
knee action. Riding through a stream of water, also
of the same depth, will develop good action.
Be careful not to use any of these helps more than
ten or fifteen minutes "at a time, for nothing but loss
in progress will result in working a tired, listless horse.
152 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
Keep your horse fresh and in good spirits. He will
learn much faster than one that is continually irritated
or in poor spirits.
The ideal to be sought by every trainer is to obtain
a light, delicate touch and never, never make an
impatient move.
A heavy weight on the toes of a horse will make him
reach farther. By this means it is an easy matter to
have the horse reach out for the Spanish trot. A weight
on the heel flexes the knee, as in the park action.
If you are training for the park action, the horse is
taught to strike a board when he paws ; another way to
gain the point is to place a pedestal about fifteen inches
high in front of him and have him step on this instead
of a board. After he mounts the pedestal easily a few
times, take him back ten or twelve feet and give him
the signal to step high. He will step high and reach
out for the pedestal, each time thinking he will reach
it. He will continue to step high and reach out until
he reaches the pedestal. This teaches him the Spanish
trot action, and he will soon perform, when the signal
is given, without the use of the pedestal.
Assist the horse to develop the Spanish trot from the
park walk by throwing your weight on the front leg that
is on the ground. By this means you delay the placing
TO TEACH A HORSE TO KNEEL 153
of the other foot on the ground and make the reach
more extended.
Do not be discouraged if the first movements of the
horse are crude in comparison with what you expect in
the end. Patience and practice bring results. Horses
with only the best heads and high spirits, however,
will ever reach the highest degree of perfection.
The Spanish trot easily develops into a beautiful
cake-walk or march by so controlling the stride of the
horse with your body that you can make him keep time
with music, or if the music follows your horse's move-
ments it will appear as though he is keeping time.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO KNEEL
Nothing adds more to the attractiveness of a horse
than to be able to kneel at a given signal. It is con-
venient to mount and dismount, and, in connection with
the nodding of the head, makes a nice salute to a crowd
of people, after receiving a ribbon or in acknowledging
applause at any time.
Double the left knee and buckle a strap tight around
the forearm and cannon bone, keeping the knee bent.
Stand by the left shoulder and tap the back of the right
leg, at the same time pulling the head to the left. This
puts the horse down on his left knee with the right leg
154 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
projecting forward. As the horse goes down, say
" Down ! " Be sure to put him down on a grassy or soft
place, so that he will not hurt his knee, or he will become
timid. Soon, by taking the bridle in the left hand and
the left leg in the right, and a slight pull backward on
each, repeating the command " Down ! " you will cause
the horse to kneel. He should be caressed and kept down
until told to rise.
A prick of a pin upon the breast will cause the horse
to nod his head up and down. The prick can soon be
reduced to pointing with a whip or finger.
As the horse kneels, the signal can be given also for
nodding the head.
Each time the horse rises he can be pulled back a
step or two and then taught to back away from an
audience, bowing and kneeling as he retires.
The act of kneeling can be reduced to the saddle and
can be used for mounting and dismounting, as well as
for the grand-stand play.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO POSE
Before a horse can be made to pose he must first
understand what it means to stand still, without any
restlessness or prancing about. If he does not know
how to stand, teach him how, as given before.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO POSE 155
Bring the horse to a stand, and, standing on the
ground in front of and facing the horse, seize the reins
on each side about four inches from the bits. By a
slight pull on the horse's head to his right, have him
step forward with his left front foot. As soon as he
steps, lift the head slightly and say " Whoa ! " before
he can step forward with the hind foot. Then turn the
horse's head to his left and pull slightly forward with your
left hand, causing the horse to step the right foot forward ;
again lift his head and say " Whoa ! " before he can
move a hind foot.
If the front feet are not even, turn the head away
from the foot too far back and have the horse move it
forward. It may move only a few inches at a time, but
the least progress with the front feet and the hind feet
stationary means success in the end.
Do not expect the horse, the first few trials, to stretch
the front and hind feet as far apart as you may expect
after a few lessons.
When the front feet are firmly planted forward, by
a slight jerking motion on the reins gradually lift the
head and press the nose backward toward the shoulder,
until the head is perpendicular and the neck proudly
arched.
You will have to use your judgment as to what
156 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
the proper position is, for you can train your horse to
stretch so far that it lacks a great deal of being a good
pose.
With some horses you may reach the end sought
more quickly by taking the reins in the left hand and a
riding- whip or crop in the right. As you pull forward
and turn the head with the left hand, strike the leg you
wish to step forward and lift the head saying, " Whoa ! "
as before, to prevent the hind leg moving forward.
The action may be repeated to move the other front
leg forward. The whip helps to concentrate the attention
of the horse upon the front legs and prevents a forward
motion of the hind legs.
After the horse is taught from the ground, mount
and give the intimation for the horse to step forward, but
allow only one step at a time. When he has taken a
step with each front foot, tighten the curb rein and with
a jerky motion lift the head up and in, until he assumes
the proper position.
THE PIVOT ACT
A skilful piece of work for a horse to perform is
usually spoken of as the pivot act.
The act is this : the horse takes the right front foot
and wraps it around the left from the knee down, while
THE PIVOT ACT 157
his weight rests on the left foot. The left foot rests on
the ground motionless, while the horse turns in a circle
with his hindquarters, using the left front foot as a pivot.
To get the horse to perform this act, place the right
front leg around the left and, by stroking the right leg,
quiet the horse so that he will keep it there.
Do not let him take it down until commanded to
do so. Keep practising, until he will place the right
leg in position at command and keep it there until
commanded to take it down. Do not ask him to keep
it in position more than two or three minutes.
When he will place the leg in position and keep it
there, have him take a step or two to the right with his
hindquarters. Let him turn, until he begins to take
his right leg from position. Anticipate his action by
" Whoa ! " Each time you practise him he will turn a
little farther than in the previous exercise, until he will
turn until told to stop.
In the same manner the horse can be taught to use
his right foot as a pivot and turn his hindquarters to
his left.
When teaching to pivot both to the right and to the
left, the first should not be drilled into the horse too
perfectly before beginning with the other foot, or it will
be hard to change his position.
158 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
Just as soon as he gets the idea with the first foot,
change to the other and have him turn the other way.
Then alternate first one way and then the other, so that
he can do both equally well.
Another method of teaching the pivot act that
makes it a beautiful performance is to have the horse
plant both his forefeet firmly on the ground and
turn with his hindquarters until his front legs twist
together.
This is accomplished by stroking the front legs to
keep the horse's attention there, while you have him
take a step or two with the hind legs. Be patient and
increase the steps with the hind legs but one at a
time, so that you can more easily keep the front feet
motionless.
Turn in one direction only until the horse can twist
his front legs before beginning to turn in the opposite
direction.
TEACHING TRICKS
Nothing adds so much to the worth of a good, fine-
looking horse as a few well-executed tricks. Even if he
is taught only three or four, and they are performed
properly, it is a delight to exhibit such an animal and a
delightful thing to witness as well. Teaching a horse
TEACHING TRICKS 159
tricks is not nearly so difficult as the average person
imagines. The most essential thing necessary for a
trainer to possess is an unlimited amount of patience
and a great deal of self-control. The horses we see and
so admire on the stage have been taught their interesting
tricks not in a single hour, or a single day, but by per-
sistent effort on the part of the trainer, repetition after
repetition, unti] the trick is almost a part of the horse.
When the whole thing is summed up, it is simply this :
the teaching of tricks is merely the forming of unusual
habits,
The confidence lesson is the lesson on which you
begin teaching tricks. This lesson must be given the
horse first of all, and must be thoroughly understood.
Another thing always to bear in mind is that when
teaching any trick, no matter how insignificant it might
appear to be, it is very essential that you give the first
lesson in an enclosure and on the very same spot each
time. This enables the horse to grasp your idea much
more quickly. When the horse will perform his trick
thoroughly he can be taken to other grounds, and
a little repetition is sometimes necessary to make him
just as obedient there. After he has been taught to
perform his trick at several places he will do the act
regardless of where he is.
i6o HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
In the beginning of this lesson I will explain how the
more easily taught tricks are conveyed to the horse's
mind. Always remember that the horse cannot reason
from cause to effect, and can only grasp your meaning by
having an action associated with a command, and that
the lesson must be repeated until firmly fixed. Never
attempt to teach a horse but one thing at a time, and
have this one point taught perfectly before beginning
another.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO SAY " YES "
I will first give you the method for teaching a horse to
respond to this word. Stand in front of the horse, a
little to one side ; take a pin and prick him very slightly
on the breast. The horse will imagine the slight pain
was caused by a fly and will put his nose down to chase
it away. As soon as he makes a move toward his breast
with his head, caress him for it. Now repeat the pricking
with the pin, and the caress as he obeys you, until the
slightest move that you make toward the breast will
cause him to drop his head. If you wish him to say
" Yes " at word of command, just as you prick him with
the pin say " Yes/' very distinctly, and continue to
say it every time the pin touches him, and in a very
short time he will learn that the command or word " Yes "
TO TEACH A HORSE TO SAY "NO" 161
is meant for him to make a bow. Always treat him kindly
for bowing his head when told, or in response to the
motion of the head, and he will soon perform the trick
more in anticipation of the kind treatment he receives
as a reward than to escape the slight punishment for
disobedience.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO SAY " NO "
Stand at the left side, near the shoulder, and prick
him slightly with a pin on the neck above the shoulders.
He will shake his head, for this is the method he would
use to rid himself of a fly from that place. The very
instant he shakes his head, caress him. Repeat until
he will shake his head at the slightest motion of the
hand toward the neck. This lesson should not be
taught for some time after teaching " Yes/' or the
horse will get the two ideas confused. If you wish him
to shake his head at the word " No," you should say
" No " every time you prick him with the pin or make
the intimation that you are going to. If you have
taught the horse to shake his head at the mere action
of the hand, you can now ask him questions, and if you
wish him to answer " No," make a motion as though
you were going to touch his neck ; " if you wish him to
answer " Yes," motion as though you were going to
L
162 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
touch his breast. To the spectator he has answered
your questions as though he knew what you were saying,
and the horse appears intelligent. You will always
observe that the man exhibiting trick horses is desirous
of impressing his audience that the horse is a " reasoning
animal."
TO TEACH A HORSE TO APPEAR VICIOUS
This trick is very easily taught. In fact, most
people who own three or more horses have at least one
that is pretty well trained in this way. This is caused
by a misunderstanding between the horse and driver.
About all that is required in teaching this trick is to
tease the horse a little, and then pretend to be afraid of
him by running away. After he has learned that he
can make you run, he will lay back his ears and act
vicious whenever you act timid. When you stand your
ground fearlessly, he will act as docile and tractable as
any horse. This is one of the easiest taught yet most
sensational tricks a horse performs.
TEACHING A HORSE TO JUMP
Nail a block of wood, about a foot and a half high
from the ground, against a building. Place the end
of the railing on this block and place the other end on a
TEACHING A HORSE TO JUMP 163
box or something the same height of the block. (The
building will serve as a guide on the one side.) After
you have taught the horse the confidence lesson and
taught him to follow you on the run, you may turn him
loose in the enclosure, where you have previously arranged
the railing, and have the horse follow you on the run.
Now start toward the railing and run and jump over it.
Just as you jump and the horse is ready to make the
leap, say " Jump ! " In most cases he will follow you,
taking the jump easily. If he fails to do so, or persists
in going around the railing, use the Indian war bridle
with the lead line spliced so that it is at least fifteen
feet long. Now a little admonition with the bridle will
cause him to make the jump. As soon as he gets the
idea that you want him to jump, you can remove the
bridle and have him jump at command. The height
of the railing can be changed as the horse becomes ac-
customed to it, but I would advise that it be left at the
original height until after the horse jumps over it easily
and without the least effort. One of the things that
you must remember in teaching any trick is always to
take your horse to the same place each time, until he
has learned the trick perfectly. As soon as he has the
idea of jumping well fixed in his mind, mount him with
the saddle and proceed to develop him by very gradually
164 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
raising the rail. At the first jump made with weight in
the saddle the rail should be somewhat lower than when
jumping with no burden.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO STAND ERECT
Put on the Indian war bridle under the ordinary
open driving bridle. Have a side rein on the driving
bridle and the back band of the harness on the horse.
Rein the horse up pretty tight. Take the cord of the
bridle in the left hand and the whip in the right ; stand
directly in front of the horse, give slight jerks with the
cord and move quickly with the whip in front of him.
If he makes the slightest effort to raise his front feet off
the ground, caress him. If he does not show any in-
clination to rise up, it is pretty evident thai you have
not reined him high enough. Shorten the rein and
repeat the command and actions in front, until he will
rise up on his hind feet at the command " Up ! " Drill
him only a few minutes at a time and not oftener
than twice a day. It takes patience to teach this
trick.
While the horse is standing erect he can often be
encouraged to step forward on his hind feet by saying,
" Come here ! " and moving backward directly in front
of him. Should he attempt to drop down on his front
'
Photo by]
[C. Hosegood.
SIR TODD II. 2.1l. AMERICAN TROTTING STALLION.
PROPERTY OF G. M. BERESFORD WEBB, ESQ.
Photo by]
[Sport and Gene.ral.
DRIVING A FAVOURITE COB IN A ROBINSON HOODED BUGGY.
TO TAKE A HANDKERCHIEF 165
feet, touch him lightly under the chin with the whip.
Some horses are too weak in the hips and loins to walk
while standing erect, and it would be cruel to compel
them to do so if such is the case. When a horse is well
trained to stand erect, as explained, it is easy to reduce
to the saddle by a sharp lift on the curb bit just as you
give the command " Up ! "'
TO TEACH A HORSE TO TAKE A HANDKERCHIEF OUT OF
THE COAT-POCKET
Lay a handkerchief in your hand and put a few
oats on it. Allow the horse to eat out of the handkerchief
and he will naturally get hold of it. After he gets
eager for the oats, raise the handkerchief containing the
oats and tuck it slightly under your coat. The horse
will endeavour to get at the oats, and will soon learn
that he must take hold of the handkerchief if he wishes
to get any of the oats it contains. Now put the hand-
kerchief, without any oats in it, under the edge of your
coat. When the horse reaches for it, caress him and
give a little oats with your other hand. In a very few
moments he will root his nose under your coat in an
effort to get the handkerchief, in anticipation of the
reward. After he once gets the idea what you want, he
will proceed to hunt for the handkerchief as soon as he
166 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
sees you put it away, and a caress will answer the same
purpose as the oats as a reward for his obedience.
TO CARRY AN ARTICLE IN THE MOUTH
This trick is easily taught after the horse knows how
to take the handkerchief from under your coat. Take
a cloth and mash a part of an apple in it. Place it on
the ground in front of the horse and tell him to " Bring
it ! " He will pick it up in an effort to get at the apple
and will follow you about the yard with it in his mouth.
Stop now and caress him. If you wish him to carry
a basket, wrap the same cloth around the handle of a
basket, and by repetition after repetition of the com-
mand, he will associate the " Bring it ! " with the basket,
and at the words will pick up the basket and carry it
to you.
TEACHING A HORSE TO KISS
Stand in front of the horse, a little to the left, and
give him a small piece of apple with the left hand. Next
hold your hand close to your face and allow him to take
another small piece of apple from it . Now take a short
stick three or four inches long and put a small piece
of apple on one end of it and the other end in your
mouth. As the horse reaches for the apple, say " Kiss ! >J
TO MOUNT A PEDESTAL 167
Repeat the process, using the command " Kiss ! " each
time you want to do the act. In a few lessons he will
put his nose toward your mouth at the command " Kiss ! "
without any reward except the caress. When you give
this command and he reaches out his nose, you should
caress him for it, even though he does not touch your
face, for it is not necessary for him to actually touch
your mouth.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO MOUNT A PEDESTAL
Have a strong platform made, about four or five feet
square and about a foot high. Place one of the horse's
front feet on it, and pinch the tendon of the other front
leg, until he will rest his weight on the foot resting on
the platform. Now lift the other front foot up carefully,
without exciting the horse in any way, and place it on
the platform. As soon as he rests his weight on both
the front feet treat him kindly. It would be well to
have a little oats or pieces of apple in your pocket and
as he obeys you reward him for it. Now have him
get off the platform and repeat until he will walk toward
the platform at word of command and place both
front feet on it. After he will do this without assistance,
while his front feet are still on the platform, you should
take hold of the left hind foot and assist him in putting
168 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
it on the platform too ; next encourage him to put the
other hind foot on the platform. After all four feet
are up you should caress him and treat him kindly.
Repeat this lesson until he will walk toward the
platform and mount it with all four feet at word of
command. Any sort of command will do for this
action, so long as you use one entirely different from
anything else that you have taught him, and so long as
the command is given while teaching the trick he will
understand that the command means to mount the
pedestal. Many persons use the word " pedestal,"
and at the command the horse will walk it and mount.
After he will mount the pedestal readily, then you
are ready to increase the height of it. After a little the
horse will mount a pedestal so high that he can barely
spiing up on it. Always be sure that everything is
made secure, for should your platform break or give
way in any manner it would be almost fatal to success.
The beauty of the pedestal trick can be greatly improved
by having a post fixed up very substantially at the
front of the pedestal, about a foot higher, to begin with,
than the pedestal proper. After the horse will mount
the pedestal by word of command, assist him in putting
the left front foot on this post, and by gentle movements
and an occasional reward give him to understand that
TO TEETER-TOTTER 169
you want him to keep the foot there until told to take
it off. When he will place the foot on the post as soon
as he mounts the pedestal, then you are ready to elevate
the post by degrees as he grows accustomed to it.
Finally he will place his foot upon a post as high as
his shoulder.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO TEETER-TOTTER
After he has been taught to get on the pedestal this
lesson will be almost a continuation of that feature of
training. Have two or three boards about two inches
thick and sixteen feet long nailed together, so the teeter-
board will be almost thirty inches wide. Allow this
teeter-board to lie flat on the ground and lead the horse
over it until he is perfectly familiar with it and will
keep all four feet on the board without attempting to
step off the side. Now elevate the board by putting a
six by six piece of timber under the middle of it, and
lead your horse on the end of the board that rests on
the ground.
It would be well to have the Indian war bridle on the
horse at this stage of his training, and as you lead him
on the board, and he approaches neai the middle, you
can stop him and step far enough to the opposite end of
the board that your weight will teeter him. Teeter very
170 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
gently, in order not to frighten him and to teach him
to balance himself. Keep his attention with the bridle
should he attempt to jump off the board.
After he gets accustomed to the teetering motion
you can lead him forward and stop him directly over the
fulcrum of the teeter-board. Now take hold of one of
his front feet and move it forward an inch or two. Have
the horse balanced on the board in such a manner that
the moving forward or backward of this one front foot,
even a couple of inches, will cause him to teeter. After
the front end of the board touches the ground, take hold
of the front foot and move it backward a couple of
inches beyond a straight line, and the board will touch
on the ground behind the horse. Keep this up, moving
the foot backward and forward, until he gets the idea of
what you wish to teach him, then he will move the foot
of his own accord. The instant he does move it, or
even shows an inclination to move it, caress and treat
him kindly.
A few lessons of this kind and you can elevate the
fulcrum to about a foot and a half high. The horse
will soon learn to approach the board at the command
" Teeter 1 " (which word you should use each time you
lead him toward the board and just as he starts on it),
mount it, and proceed to teeter without a further
TO TEACH A HORSE TO TELL HIS AGE 171
command. When you are ready for him to stop,
say, " That will do/' and teach him to get off the
board at that command. If you wish to elevate the
fulcrum more than a foot and a half you should have a
longer teeter-board made, for if the fulcrum is more
than a foot and a half high it would throw one end of
the teeter-board too high and would put it on too much
of a slant while the horse was teetering.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO TELL HIS AGE, ADD,
SUBTRACT, ETC.
Have a small tack placed in a whip close to the lash.
Stand on the left side of the horse, on a line with his
shoulders, about four feet away. Reach forward with
the whip and prick him with the tack on the back part
of the forearm of the front leg. He will think it is a
fly and will raise the foot and put it down with a thud
in an effort to dislodge the supposed fly. / Have him do
this three or four times, then reward him for it by
caressing him. When he understands that the whip
pointed toward the front leg means to paw, and that
he is caressed for it, and while he is pawing at the motion
of the whip, raise the whip quickly and let the end of the
lash strike him under the chin, and he will soon learn
to stop pawing when you raise the whip. By taking the
172 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
same position every time he will soon understand that
you mean him to paw by merely a motion of the
hand as though you were going to touch him with the
whip, or by simply bending the body. When you raise
up, he will stop pawing instantly. You can now ask
him how old he is, or how many times six will go into
eighteen, or how much five times four is or any like
question, and when he has pawed the required number
of times, change your position, and he will stop pawing.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN.
When ready to teach this trick, take the horse out
on a smooth, grassy plot or in a yard covered heavily
with straw, following the directions given in this book
under instructions, " To Teach a Horse to Kneel." Just
as the horse's knee strikes the ground, pull his head
toward his side, opposite to that on which his leg is
strapped up, and push against his shoulder and hip.
This will throw him on his side.
It would assist considerably to have a surcingle of
some kind on him, with a crupper attached to keep it
in place, and to fasten one end of a hitching strap to a
ring in this surcingle, then run the strap down and
through a ring in a halter previously placed on the
horse, back again, and through another ring on the
DOCKING 173
surcingle, so that you have a V-shaped leverage on the
head, and use this to control the horse when down.
When he attempts to get up, roll him back and
continue until he is discouraged in the attempt, after
which caress and give him some oats or an apple ; walk
all about him and then stop and caress him. Do not
keep him on the ground long at a time.
After two or three lessons you can stand on the
horse's right side, reach under him and raise the left
front foot, drawing his nose toward you, and he will
lie down readily.
To reduce the trick to word of command, you should
say " Lie down ! " as you are throwing him, and continue
the process of throwing and the use of the command
until he will lie down at command, or by merely touching
him with the whip on his shins he will drop to his knees
and then down on his side.
DOCKING
I do not agree with docking ; I love to see a long tail,
as seen on the thoroughbred and the trotter. Some
people think that if the horse is docked there will be no
fear of the reins getting under the tail. But if the colt
is properly broken and long-reined there will be no
fear of this causing an accident. Docking, after all, is
174 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
a fashion, but as my father used to say, " It is very old-
fashioned " and there is something logical in that.
The actual operation of docking does not cause any
pain if done skilfully. (Horse-copers, who dock every
horse they buy " flagging " him as they term it are
apt to hurt the unfortunate animal, and what care they
if they do !). The real cruelty, in my opinion, is when
the poor animal is turned out to grass and has to endure
the numerous attacks from flies and mosquitoes without
any means of protection.
Chapter VIII
The Welsh Pony The Welsh Mountain Pony The Lowland Pony
Satisfaction Emlyn Cymro Llwyd Trotting Comet The New
Forest Pony The Highland Pony The Fell Pony The Ex-
moor Pony The Hackney Pony The Cape Horse The Old
Road Hackney.
Chapter VIII
THE WELSH PONY
THE Welsh pony is a general favourite ; everybody will
have a Welsh pony. The Welsh farmer loves a good
pony and he knows how to breed one ; and, what is
more, he will have one. Few horsemen know a real
Welsh pony when they see one. Any strong-looking
pony with feathered legs is classed as Welsh. It is
probable that the dam was a Russian pony and the sire
a young shire stallion.
The name " Welsh " is really a type to-day. Any-
thing thick-set and cobby is called Welsh. Through
crossing the grand old Welsh ponies with Arabs, cart
colts and hackneys, the old-fashioned type has been
almost lost, and but for the Welsh Cob and Pony Society
the Welsh pony would be extinct. Some strains 1 of
Welsh ponies to-day are distinctly an Arab type, while
others are a cart-horse type. The old-fashioned quality
Welsh pony, with a small head, perfectly-shaped hocks,
short back, good loins and quarters, with the ideal legs
177 M
178 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
j^>!
and feet, has been preserved, I am very pleased to say,
by the Welsh farmers, who ignored the newly -imported
strains. Many of these breeders are members of the
Society, and have done much to try to revive the beau-
tiful old breed, which appeals to every true lover of
the horse.
The pure Welsh pony is undoubtedly the type that
Nature devised. The half-bred Welsh ponies are alto-
gether unsuitable for the country, and can only breed
a very odd lot of light -boned, weak-looking animals, such
as we often see at the leading fairs to-day. The out-
standing features of the old pure-bred Welsh cobs and
ponies are hardiness, courage, stamina, sure-foot edness
and freedom from disease.
The Welsh Cob and Pony Society divides them into
four sections.
(1) The mountain pony, which does not exceed
12-2 hands high;
(2) The Lowland pony, which does not exceed
13-2 hands high ;
(3) The small cob, which does not exceed 14-2
hands high ;
(4) The large cob, which is 14*2 hands high or
over.
THE WELSH MOUNTAIN PONY 179
THE WELSH MOUNTAIN PONY
This pony has preserved its original characteristics very
well, considering several Arab crosses have been infused
and the ponies have been allowed to run and breed
haphazardly on the mountains. The description given
of the mountain pony four hundred years ago applies
equally well to-day.
For some time there has been a gradual reduction
in the number of Welsh ponies, but now and again
the tendency is towards an increase. The American
demand has done a lot to foster this tendency, and
consequently more attention is being given to their
breeding.
During the war there was a marked deficiency of
ponies. The Russian ponies were not being imported,
and the demand soon exhausted the supply. The
prices in consequence went up by leaps and bounds, and
the ordinary five-year-old Welsh mountain pony was
realising 35 to 40, and sometimes fifty guineas.
The improved mountain pony is a good-looking,
useful, marketable pony. To see these ponies in the
improved state one cannot do better than pay a visit
to Church Stretton, Lampeter and Tregaron during the
third week in April, when they are collected and taken
i8o HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
back to the hills from their winter quarters and will
give an excellent idea of the improved type.
Mrs. Greene, The Grove, Craven Arms, Salop, has one
of the finest Welsh pony studs in the country.
The Lowland type of Welsh pony is the better-class
one. More care has been taken in the breeding of this
little fellow. The sires selected for mating with the
mares of this class are the small cob type from 13
to 14 hands. Eiddwen Flyer has played a great part
in the breeding of this grand old type of pony.
Satisfaction was another sire who was used with
great success in moulding this same type, and the breed
is still breeding on through his son, Emlyn Cymro Llwyd,
868 W.S.B., who is acknowledged to be the best pure-
bred Welsh pony living. He possesses all the pure
characteristics of the Welsh pony, viz., small head,
prominent fiery eyes, activity, intelligence, small ears,
good width between the eyes and tapering towards the
nostrils, long arched neck, short back with quarters well
up, long to the hock, long forearms, short cannon-bones
and pasterns, with long wavy silken feather, and a trapper
of the finest quality.
General information concerning the Welsh cob does
not date further back than the memory of men still
living. We can trace back to 1840, when old Trotting
Photo by!
[Sport and General.
BLEDDFA SHOOTING STAR," l6o W.S.E.
CHAMPION WELSH FONY STALLION,
PROPERTY OF MRS. H. D. GREENE, THE GROVE SALOP.
Photo by] \_Chas. Reid.
THE CHAMPION HIGHLAND PONY STALLION " GLENCRUITTEN."
PROPERTY OF J. H. MUNRO MACKENZIE, ESQ.
THE NEW FOREST PONY 181
Comet was foaled. His descendants include the famous
Welsh Flyers, Comets, Expresses, the Caradog strain,
the Railways, the Welsh Jacks, and Beaconsfields. A
great many Welsh cobs to-day are crossed with the
Hackney, but they cannot be compared with the pure-
bred Welsh cobs, who, if it were not for the Society I have
already mentioned, would be almost extinct.
THE NEW FOREST PONY
The history of this breed is intimately connected with
the Royal Forest. Many infusions have been made to
much advantage, for the New Forest pony was greatly
deteriorating. Her Majesty Queen Victoria presented
two Arabs, stallions, with a view to improving this breed
of pony. The Hampshire ponies, as is well known, are
good, hardy little fellows, and very good for journeys.
They stand from 12 to 13 hands. They have good legs
and short pasterns, resembling a blood-looking pony ;
they are very much sought after for children's riding
ponies. Miss Muriel Lander's Forest pony, Black Bess,
is one of the best specimens of this breed I have seen,
THE HIGHLAND PONY
The old hardy breed which carried the men of the hills
on many a long journey on " the roads, before they were
182 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
made." The Highland pony is thick-set, and a cart-
horse in miniature, but not the result of cart-horse
crossing or breeding. The breed originates from the
western islands of Scotland. Sometimes they are called
Garron ponies, and are usually bred on the farm and
well cared for. They cross well with the thoroughbred
and Hackney, and breed excellent roadsters and polo
ponies.
The Highland pony has a small, characteristic
head, good shoulders and good quarters, natural,
strong, well-shaped hocks and short pasterns ; a
splendid type .of pony, which should receive more
encouragement.
During the war a great many Highland ponies were
taken the big ponies for Lovat's Scouts and the Scottish
Horse and the smaller ponies for mountain batteries.
It is fortunate that a considerable number of mares
were returned to the Highlands for breeding, but many
valuable ones were lost, and it will take time to rebuild
many of the studs.
THE FELL PONY
The Fell pony, in my opinion, resembles the Highland
pony in many ways, and I think they are nearly akin.
The Fell pony is very like the old Vardy horse a sort
THE FELL PONY 183
of trotting cart-horse greatly used in Scotland about
half a century ago.
I was very much interested when I visited the Kirkby
Stephen Show to see a nice bunch of Fell ponies.
Glengarry impressed me : he was a beautiful type of
pony.
The Fell pony, it is said, should stand from 12-3
hands to 14-1 hands. Most I have seen have been
about 13-3 to 14 hands. They are on short legs and
have excellent bone, and plenty of it. They remind me
of a miniature Clydesdale with good shoulders. They
are good movers and have a fair turn of speed, the
well-known Fell pony stallion, British Credit, having
trotted twelve miles in the hour.
The farmers around Cumberland and Westmoreland
are paying more interest to the breeding of the Fell pony
now than they are to the cart-horse, because the prices
obtained in the recent sales have been very good and
much higher than those realised for the Clydesdale cart-
horses.
The Fell pony would have been more suitable to
cross with the Welsh mountain pony and the New Forest
pony than the Hackney or the Arab, because the Fell is
so strong and hardy, used to very severe winters, and
has such massive bone and good shoulders. Welsh
184 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
breeders who believe in crossing their mares should
introduce some Fell blood, for the old breed traces back
for years and years without any crosses or infusions of
foreign blood.
THE EXMOOR PONY
The Exmoor pony is a very good all-round useful pony.
I saw a very useful lot at Bampton Fair one autumn.
They run on the moors and live under almost the same
conditions as the New Forest ponies and the Welsh
mountain ponies.
The thoroughbred horse has improved the breed,
and splendid riding ponies have been found amongst
them boys', hunters, and in some cases polo
ponies.
The Dartmoor pony was at some period closely
related to the Exmoor, but to-day they are two distinct
breeds, the Exmoor being a better quality pony, having
a smaller head and better hocks.
The thoroughbred horse Pandarus helped to
improve them ; Quicksilver and Old Post, by Bees-
wingthat grand old thoroughbred also did splendid
service.
These ponies are hardy and work splendidly, and it
is astonishing what weight they can carry.
THE HACKNEY HARNESS PONY 185
THE HACKNEY HARNESS PONY
It is really wonderful what can be achieved by selection
and care. The Hackney pony is an illustration of an
elaborate system of breeding.
The Rigmaden ponies were the fashion thirty years
ago ; they were originated by Mr. C. W. Wilson, who
discreetly crossed good Welsh ponies with the best -bred
Hackneys, and then by a wonderful system of in-breeding
eventually bred a beautiful little Hackney pony.
The Hackney pony stallion crossed with a Welsh,
Exmoor or Forest pony usually breeds a good type of
pony with courage and good action. The farmer who
has a favourite pony would do well to breed her to the
Hackney pony stallion, especially if he is prepared to
give the offspring a good winter. This cross cannot be
recommended for rough wintering on the moors or
mountains.
The specimens seen to-day in the show-rings are
magnificent, and no pen can really do justice in describing
them. I like them better than the big Hackney, because
they are so active and pony-like, and really sensational
in every sense of the word. The pony is easier to breed
to type than the bigger horse ; this is why the Hackney
pony has come to perfection.
i86 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
THE CAPE HORSE
The Cape horse, as found in the Colony at the time of
its cession to the British, was descended from stock of
Eastern origin, and consisted mainly of Barbs and
Persians, or Gulf Arabs, which were imported by the
Dutch East India Company.
In 1792 eight stud horses were imported from England
which are supposed to have been of the early English
Roadster breed. In the same year five stud horses arrived
from Boston, and the following year a number of horses
and mares of Eastern descent arrived from the New
England State.
In March, 1807, two French vessels were captured
at the Cape containing some Spanish horses en route
to Buenos Aires for breeding purposes. These are said
to have been the progenitors of the odd-coloured and red
roans so much fancied for their power of endurance by
the colonists.
Much has been written of the Arab and his steed,
the owner's love for it, and so forth, " but the steeds and
owners I saw left me cold/' writes Ignotus. " The Bedouin
pony is a wiry brute, standing some 14-2 hands, and
capable of a certain turn of speed in his own class,
ridden in a terrific bit by a savage who flaps his arms
THE OLD ROAD HACKNEY 187
and legs about as if they were semaphore arms, and
who is apparently quite unmoved by such trifles as sore
backs, fistulous withers and lameness, to all of which,
if stopped, he returns the whining reply, ' Ane meskin '
(I am a poor man) ; or, in other words, ' I cannot
help it.'
"The Bedouins' and Egyptians' cruelty to animals
horses, donkeys, mules and camels alike arises from
thoughtlessness and indifference, and if the R.S.P.C.A.
at Alexandria chooses to extend its sphere of activity to
the Delta and up country it has a limitless field before it.
"Again, at Rosetta, one of the Nile mouths, I found
poor worn-out cab-horses treading at the thick Nile
clay for brick-making. In this they stood hock-high,
and from exhaustion and starvation I have seen them
fall helplessly in the mud, to be revived by a few strokes
with a stick."
THE OLD ROAD HACKNEY
There were plenty of fine stayers in the old days among
the Hackneys, just as there were among their relations,
the thoroughbreds. There are some fine records of long
distances covered in wonderful time, many of which
are chronicled in the Hackney Stud Book.
Among the instances referred to is that of Mr. John
i88 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
Mier's mare, which in 1798 trotted 50 miles in 4 hours
32 mins. on the highway near Cadoxton, Wales, cover-
ing the first mile in 3! mins. and the last in 4 mins.
3 sees. A broken-kneed, stone-blind mare, belonging
to Mr. Woodcock, East Harling, Norfolk, trotted 40
miles on June 6, 1822, in 3 hours 43 mins. ; and
a horse of Mr. Dixon's trotted 30 miles on the Romford
road in 2 hours 46 mins. 43 sees., carrying 15 stone ;
and later on Mr. Dyson's horse trotted 40 miles in 3
hours 37 mins. 40 sees, over a ten-mile piece of
ground.
Many other well-authenticated long-distance perform-
ances could be quoted as credited to the early Hackney,
whilst almost innumerable instances of very fast times
for short distances can be produced.
In confirmation of this statement, the "Sporting
Magazine " of April, 1794, may be quoted. The issue in
question refers to Mr. Ogden's mare, which possessed
records of four miles in 12 mins. 14 sees., 40 miles
in 3 hours, carrying 18 stone, 10 miles in 33 and 32
mins., and 30 miles in 2 hours. At a more recent
date, namely, September, 1820, the " Sporting Magazine "
gives the particulars of Aldridge's trotting match, which
created immense inteiest in 1783. From what appears,
it seems that Mr. James Aldridge's mare trotted 10 miles
THE OLD ROAD HACKNEY 189
in 57 mins. 20 sees, and with 12 stone up, and
finished so fresh that she looked like covering the best
part of another mile within the time.
On April 17, 1798, Othello, the property of Mr.
Chas. Herbert, trotted 17 miles in 58 mins. 40 sees,
on the Highgate road ; and in July, 1800, on the Cam-
bridge road, a brown mare of Mr. Dixon's covered the
distance in 56 mins.
Again, in November, 1800, the " Sporting Magazine "
refers to an old one-eyed mare which trotted 17 miles
on the Huntingdon road in 57 mins., and adds that as
the backers of time refused to accept the decision of
the watch-holder she was sent over the distance again,
and then covered it in 53 mins.
Perhaps the greatest trotter of all time, however,
was the wonderful pony Phenomena, by Othello,
mentioned above, out of a half-bred mare. She was
under 14*2 hands, and was foaled in May, 1788, her
breeder being Sir Edward Astley, of Melton Constable,
Norfolk.
Amongst the many remarkable performances of
Phenomena were the following : 17 miles in 56 mins.
when 12 years old, on the Huntingdon road, in June,
1800, her owner then being a Mr. Robson. Heavy bets
being made that she did not repeat the performance,
igo HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
she was brought out again in the July following, and
covered the 17 miles a few seconds under 54 mins.
After that, Phenomena was matched for 2,000 guineas
to trot 19! miles in the hour, but as it came to the
knowledge of the backers of time that in the course of
the former match she covered the last four miles inside
the ii mins. they very sensibly paid forfeit. When
she was twenty years old she trotted 9 miles in 21 mins.
30 sees., eventually dropping down dead when trotting
across a common on a hot June day in 1814, at which
time she had returned to the possession of the Astley
family, her owner being the Rev. Dr. Astley, a son of
the breeder.
Compared with the achievements of Phenomena, the
performances of all other contemporary Hackneys fall
into the shade, but sufficient has been shown to prove
that the old breed were capable of going fast and staying.
Beyond all question indeed, the correctness of the
statement has never been questioned a Hackney con-
tributed greatly to the improvement of the American
trotter, and his blood flows in the veins of most of the
greatest performers on the track.
The Hackney in question was Jary's Bellfounder,
No. 55 in the Hackney Society's Stud Book, bred and
owned by Mr. Roger Jary, of Harling, Norfolk. He
THE OLD ROAD HACKNEY 191
was a bright bay i5-hand horse, and was foaled in 1816,
being imported into America by Mr. James Booth, of
Boston, in July, 1822.
According to Mr. Kissam, one of the gentlemen under
whose control he was in America, Bell founder had " a
small head and ears, full, prominent eyes and wide apart,
shoulders deep and oblique, deep girth, short back, round
ribbed, Jong, full quarters, pasterns rather short, tail
and mane full-haired/'
Messenger, a thoroughbred stallion, was exported
from England to America about the same time as Bell-
founder, and it was undoubtedly these two sires who
were the progenitors of the American trotter. At various
times thoroughbred blood has been infused, hence the
striking resemblance between the trotting horse and
the thoroughbred.
Chapter IX
The Pre-Victorian Coaching Days Joe Tollit James Selby's " Old
Times" Splan's Reply to Archer Personality in Horsemanship
Jesse Beery Everard Calthrop The Indian Cowboy The
Late Willie Lane The Likes and Dislikes of Horses Lord
Lonsdale's Record Drive The Late Walter Winans Lady
Dalmeny The Late Richard Bainbridge Dr. H. W. Darrell
George Warman A Perfect Horsewoman The Wheelwright
Horse-breaker Horsemen I Met in the Army Driving The
Ordinary Careless Driver The Way to Hold the Reins The
Journey Horse How to A void Colic Types and Characters of
the Harness Cob A Drive Behind Cashmere James W. Packman
Jack Skinner The Trotter Mary Shawbay Richmond
Fred Metcalfe The World's Champion, Lee Axworthy.
Chapter IX
HORSEMEN
ONE of the three famous brothers who adorned the road
in pre-Victorian days was Joe Tollit. And it is not
recorded that the remarkable feat he accomplished on
May i, 1834, was by any means the death of him, for
he afterwards drove the " Oxford Age " from " The Vine "
in Oxford to ''The Bell and Crown" in Holborn up
to-day and down to-morrow.
There was very considerable rivalry on the Oxford
road, and there was one rival in particular whom " The
Age " was anxious to dispose of once for all. The distance
was about the same as that from London to Brighton
fifty-four miles. The opposition coach held the record
something over four hours and "The Age" publicly
announced its intention of lowering this record. On
that eventful May day Tollit started from "The Vine"
at his regular hour of eleven. The twenty-five miles
to Wycombe, the worst part of the journey, were
accomplished in two hours.
195 N2
196 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
From Wycombe to London was twenty-nine miles
more, and that distance was covered in the surprising
time of one hour and forty minutes, though there had
been an enforced wait at Uxbridge, where horses were
not ready. While at Acton there was only available a
team which had just come down, and which Joe in person
had to assist in putting to.
When one considers that "The Age " was a solid and
substantial vehicle, in comparison with which James
Selby's " Old Times " would have seemed spidery, one
cannot help being much impressed with Mr. follit's
achievement. Fifty-four miles, with such a weight
behind him, in 3 hours 40 mins. is something a good
deal better than other performances.
To be sure, Joe was not officially timed, and it is
himself who told the tale, but no one gainsaid it, and
the sporting duke to whom he told it knew him and
believed it.
On July 13, 1888, Selby drove the " Old Times " from
Hatchett's, Piccadilly, to Brighton and back in 7 hours
50 mins. A bet of 1,000 to 500 had been laid that
he would not cover the distance within eight hours.
From Castle Square, Brighton, to the Elephant and
Castle is 52 miles. Selby drove to the " Ship " and used
Chelsea Suspension Bridge in preference to Westminster.
SPLAN'S REPLY TO FRED ARCHER 197
To say he made a matter of 54 miles of it is probably to
understate the actual mileage he travelled.
He made sixteen changes ; only one of them, it has
been said, occupied more than a minute, and two
minutes were lost at the closed gates of a level crossing.
Not more than two minutes were required for the turn
round.
Taking the total distance at 108 miles, the average
pace works out at over 13 miles an hour, though on
the galloping stage the pace was 22 miles an hour. He
had daylight, macadam, and no accident, but only that
one little hitch at the crossing. But then, alone he did
it. And what that may mean in a race of this kind,
the amount of nervous strain and stress it may involve;
was proved by the sequel in Selby's case. His drive
was the real, if not the actual, cause of his death in the
December following.
SPLAN'S REPLY TO FRED ARCHER
The great American driver, John SpJan, who reduced
the world's record of Goldsmith Maid from 2 mins.
14 sees, to 2 mins; 13^ sees, with Rarus, marked
Johnston in 2 mins. 6J sees, to high wheels, secured
the first sweep through the Grand Circuit with Wedg-
wood, and made the names of Newcastle and Newburger
ig8 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
familiar by winning a long series of races with both of
them, was credited with many witty sayings during his
career on the track, and will always be remembered as
a wit who lived and sparkled in the good old days of
harness-racing when the breed was being founded and
trotting horses were in a measure manufactured by the
men who developed them.
One of Splan's most brilliant flashes of wit was
placed on record in the lobby of the St. James* Hotel
on Broadway, in New York City. The English jockey,
Fred Archer, whose name became a household word on
the American continent on account of him winning
the English Derby with Iroquois, had made a trip
across the Atlantic in search of health. His head-
quarters were at the St. James 1 , whose proprietor,
Captain Conner, was an ardent admirer of the gallopers
and had many beautiful paintings of them scattered all
over the house. One afternoon, while Archer was there,
John Splan dropped in for a visit. A group of horse-
men suggested that it would be a capital idea to introduce
Archer to the greatest living driver. Archer was very
much pleased with the suggestion, and after the greetings
were exchanged the slender little man slid up to the big
six-footer and said : "By the way, Mr. Splan, what
are the principal fixed events on the trotting turf in
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP 199
America ? ' He then went on to state that in England
they had the Derby, St. Leger, City and Suburban, etc.,
etc., under that head.
Splan waited patiently until his new acquaintance
had completed his explanation. He then stooped over,
and in a hoarse whisper said in Archer's ear :
" Between you and I, Fred, they are nearly all
fixed: 1
When Captain Conner heard of it he offered to bet a
bottle and a bird against a glass of cold water that
Archer would die without ever knowing what Splan
meant.
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP
Personality plays a great part in horsemanship. The
famous professors of horse-training, such as the great
Powell, Rarey, Sample, Galvayne, Jesse Beery, Everard
Calthrop and Capt. Mike Rimington are all men
whom you could judge at a glance to be horsemen of
great personality. These men have not been horsemen
dressed for the occasion ; as a matter of fact, their
ordinary attire was very neat and plain, and not
" horsy."
Jesse Beery had a charming personality. He could
always make friends with the most savage horse in a few
200 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
minutes. His school of horsemanship at Ohio has been
a boon to the true horse-lover and undoubtedly a
millennium to the horse.
Everard Calthrop has a most patient and delicate
manner and a great personality. I have assisted him
occasionally, and have been able to judge for myself.
I saw him handle two wild unbroken colts most artistic-
ally. The colts soon took kindly to him, and followed
him about as if they were perfectly broken.
I have studied horsemen equally as much as I have
studied the horse. I could mention hundreds of good
horsemen I have met. Perhaps the best rider I ever
saw was an Indian, Tom Threepersons.
I remember at a stampede show in the far west of
Canada how a mad-tempered bucking-broncho threw
every cowboy who mounted him, and the champion
rider of a well-known ranch was badly thrown and
injured. The crowd called for Tom, but it was im-
possible for him to appear because he was in gaol
awaiting trial. The sheriff was present, and he was
persuaded to let Tom out to have a ride on the broncho
fellow. Tom was escorted to the ring by two police
officers. The broncho was thrown, and Tom stood over
his body when the ropes were released. The horse
jumped up and commenced to buck, rear and twist round
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP 201
very swiftly, backing at the same time. But Tom
Threepersons rode him and rode him well and
remained on for about ten minutes.
When the horse was again lassoed and Tom flung
himself oft, he was rather dizzy after this rough ride,
and after a great ovation he was quietly taken back to
his cell. He was absolutely the best roughrider I ever
saw. He had a perfectly natural seat and good hands.
The broncho could not move him from the saddle, and
he rode him with a great amount of ease and comfort.
I do not know what became of him, but he had my
admiration, gaol-bird or not.
When the late Willie Lane was riding I was acquainted
with him through my father, and I had a good op-
portunity of observing and making a study of his methods.
The influence this great jockey had over horses was
really wonderful, and I can only attribute it to some
intuitive perception possessed by the animals, which
acquainted them with the fact that he was their master
No doubt it was due to his will-power. It was evident
that he was a very plucky horseman, for even in his
boyhood days he used to ride bad-tempered horses and
master them. His personality was a good deal to do
with his charming gift in managing troublesome horses.
He was the son of Mr. Joe Lane, a well-known London
202 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
jobmaster, who was widely known as an exceptionally
good horseman of his day.
I have often observed the remarkable influence some
men, and women too, have over horses, whilst others
are quite helpless in their attempts to make friends.
My belief is that horses have some instinct or portion of
the brain developed that they are able to take likes
and dislikes. In their natural state they form friend-
ships with other horses, and are quite vicious toward any
particular horse who has not been fortunate enough to
win their friendship. Therefore if a horseman, whether
he be a jockey, coachman, horse-trainer, or an ordinary
horse-lover, possesses the necessary personality which
appeals to the horse, then he wins fame, especially if
he is a good horseman in the bargain. He rides, drives,
or trains horses that other people fail to succeed with,
and eventually gains a world-wide reputation.
I remember when in the Army how some young city
clerks who were not used to them would gain favour
with certain horses, while others could never make
friends with them at all. So this shows that anybody,
whether connected with horses or not, may possess the
desired personality.
Lord Lonsdale is an exceptionally clever horseman,
and has trained quite a large number of vicious horses
PERS01S
?\w
B?
for his own pleas
he possesses the
a keen follower
whip.
There is one
Lord Lonsdale
lovers of the hor
many of the pres(
years ago it is
It arose out c
come of an aft
Shrewsbury over
modes of progrei
took place concerning me
distances and the highest possible speed attainable.
Lord Shrewsbury possessed a very good trotter, which
he at times drove in double harness with a galloper, and
also two horses that did nothing but gallop in double
harness. On the other hand, Lord Lonsdale had a pair
of fast gallopers as well as a celebrated pair of trotting
mares.
As is customary with the true-born sporting English-
man, the prospect of a contest was like good wine to
Lord Lonsdale, and the conversation ended in a match
between the sporting noblemen for 100 a side, the
Lord Lonsdale
UNSHIP 203
is obvious that
Besides being
ale is a splendid
sorting career of
appeal to all
e not known to
d nearly thirty
ch was the out-
th the Earl of
of the different
much discussion
of driving long
204 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
different feats to be performed being : to drive five miles
single, five miles double, a like distance four-in-hand, and
the final five miles' ride and drive post without any
restrictions as to gait, each nobleman to choose his own
road, and the decision as to which was to be used to
be left to Mr. Arthur Coventry, who was appointed
referee.
The road between Reigate and Crawley was eventually
agreed upon, though Lord Lonsdale had wanted the road
between Walter Newton and Norman Cross to be used.
Tuesday, March 10, 1891, was the date agreed upon
for the match, in which much public interest was taken.
There had been snow in London, but driving was quite
practicable on the road selected. Anyhow, Lord Shrews-
bury did not turn up, but Lord Lonsdale gave the public
an exhibition rather than disappoint the numerous
spectators. The first stage was driven in single harness
to an American buggy sent over from America by Mr.
Richard K. Fox, for the special use of Lord Lonsdale.
" To this marvellous production of the coach-builder's
art the draught being only four pounds was harnessed
the thoroughbred gelding War Paint, by Unucas, out
of Toilet, by Speculum out of Vanity, which had been
claimed by Armstrong of Penrith out of a selling race,
and subsequently broken to harness. 1 '
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP 205
There was a bit of delay in this section of the contest,
owing to the police, but the stage was covered in 13
mins. 39* sees. The change from single harness
to the driving of a pair was quickly effected, and Blue
and Yellow, a pair of beautiful brown mares bred in
America, who were attached to another buggy, the
property of the Marquis of Cholmondeley, were soon
speeding on their way, and the five miles was completed
in 12 mins. 5i| sees.
A quick change to four-in-hand took place at the
Reigate end of the course, and a beautiful bit of coach-
manship was shown by Lord Lonsdale, every animal
moving fair and square, and the five miles being covered
in 15 mins. 9! sees. Bar accidents, it was odds on
the twenty miles being completed within the hour,
and when his lordship did the last stage in 18 mins.
55! sees., thus making the whole twenty miles 55
mins. 35| sees., there was a stentorian shout of
enthusiasm from a huge throng of interested spectators.
The late Walter Winans possessed a wonderful
personality with horses. He was a great help to the
trotting sport in Great Britain. He formed the British
Amateur Driving Club, in 1919, and it was at a meeting
of the Driving Club that he met his tragic death. He
was driving his trotting mare Henrietta Guy when he
206 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
fainted and fell from the sulky. As many present at
the time remarked, he died in harness.
The Amateur Driving Club soon fell to pieces after
his death, in spite of Mr. Beresford Webb's efforts to
keep it going.
Lady Dalmeny was a member, and raced her British-
bred trotting mare, Dolly Bingen, with great success.
I think it will be well worth while to recall a great
race which took place about a week before Mr. Winans
met with his fatal accident. There was a good field ;
Mr. Winans was driving his 14-hand American trot-
ting pony, Harvest Star. In the first half the horses
were keeping together well, when Mr. Winans gradually
drew out and took the lead. Mr. W. Buckly, the amateur
driver, who was driving the American gelding Cranach,
then got on level terms with Harvest Star. Both
horses were trotting well, about a hundred yards from
the winning-post ; it was obvious to everyone that
Buckly was dead heating with Mr. Winans. The horses'
heads were level and Buckly was driving a clever race.
" A dead heat ! " the crowd shouted. " Dead heat ! "
But the race was not finished. There were ten more
yards to go.
I shall never forget it ! At this intense moment Mr.
Winans dropped his hands, drew his pony a smart one
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP 207
with the whip and shouted, " Go on ! Go on ! " He
just won by a head, the time being 2 mins. 27 sees.
for one mile. It was a great finish, and showed what a
clever driver Mr. Winans really was.
I was in the judges' box at the time with the late
Mr. Richard Bainbridge, the well-known trott ing-horse
owner and breeder. The last time I saw Mr. Bainbridge
alive was at Richmond Horse Show, when he was judging
the trotter classes. In his younger days Mr. Bainbridge
took a great interest in road-racing. After racing his
trotters at Wembley Park with great success, he assisted
in forming the Essex Amateur Trotting Club. He was
known as the " Pony King/' having a stable of very fast
and smart ponies. The I4~hand pony Cinderella trotted
the mile in 2 mins* 24 sees. His famous pony was
Maggie H., 12 hands, whose record was 2 mins. 37
sees, for one mile. A notable feat for a pony so
small.
The trotting fraternity lost another good friend when
Dr. H. W . Darrell died. He was a vice-president of the
National Trott ing- Horse Breeders' Association. Dr.
Darrell was born in Bermuda and educated in Canada.
He bred some splendid trotters. His beautiful stallion,
Lord Bantam, record 2 mins. 20 sees., did a lot of
winning for him in pace and action classes. At the sale
208 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
held after the death of Dr. Darrell there was quite a
score of fashionably-bred trotters sent to auction. These
trotters had never seen the racing-track. At the time
there was rather a scarcity of good-class trotters, and
these met with a very good market. Needless to say,
they soon found their way to the track, and most of
them were successful, one being Lady of the Clan, who
won every race she was entered in.
Another well-known member of the Amateur Driving
Club was Mr. George Warman, whose love for a horse,
especially a trotter, was overwhelming. In the old days
he used to coach a fine team of trotters to Essex trotting
meetings. He had a great personality with horses and
oft-times bought a so-called " rogue " and taught him
to race quietly. Many of the present-day trotting-horse
trainers have taken a leaf out of Mr. Warman's book,
for he was certainly a great tutor and a very, very fine
horseman.
It is a very strange thing, but most Englishmen like
to be known as horsemen, especially when abroad, even
if their experience is but little. Nothing hurts an
Englishman more than to tell him he is not a good
horseman. A great many get hold of a very foolish
system, invariably copied from a rough, inexperienced
breaker, carter or groom. This wrong system of handling
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP 209
a horse gets fixed in their heads. They cannot think for
themselves and dislike to be told by others, because
their first tutor taught them all they required to know.
Now these horsemen have helped to earn the English-
man a poor reputation in the Colonies. When they have
displayed their small amount of skill, the Colonial smiles
and thinks that all Englishmen are as bad, when really
we have in England some of the finest riders and
drivers, besides judges of horses, that the world has
ever produced. The British horsewoman oft-times is
unobserved in the show-ring, the reason being that her
qualifications are perfect. She can " hold her own "
either at team-driving, tandem, single, or in the hunting-
field. A visit to any of our horse shows will convince
one that we do possess a perfect horsewoman.
I once knew of a blacksmith and wheelwright who
used to give exhibitions of horsemanship to the ignorant,
besides doing a little dealing. If a horse was a trouble
to shoe he would hit it unmercifully with his hammer
and thrash it. Shoeing was only a side-line in his busi-
ness and a good thing, too, for the poor horses. But to
suggest that he was not a horseman meant murder for
the person who ventured to tell him. I remember how
he paid a visit to the Royal City Horse Repository,
Barbican, and purchased a black-brown cob. Afterwards,
210 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
with the assistance of some local boys, he harnessed
the cob and drove it, I think, about 200 yards. The
pony was only spirited and high-couraged ; the wheel-
wright mistook this for vice, and decided there and then
to take him out of harness and give him some " medi-
cine," as he called it an administration of the whip.
No, he could not drive this beautiful pony.
This is only one of many cases where his system failed,
and the pony was sent to St. Martin's Lane Repository
the following week. I ascertained the full particulars,
and went to the sale with my friend, who wanted to
buy a good pony. We selected this very pony ; he was
much cheaper than he was the previous week in Barbican,
for he was not warranted. I had the pony to drive for
a few days, and he was one of the best -mannered ponies
I ever drove behind. He was a real Welshman with a
little courage when he started away. My friend, I think,
still has the pony, and we often have a quiet laugh about
the wheelwright who sold him for 7 less than he gave
for him because he thought the pony was wicked !
This is only one example of what some so-called horse-
men do. I quote this merely as an illustration, to warn
my readers against accepting advice upon horses from
such muddlers as these.
Great horsemen, I still maintain, have personality
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP 211
which appeals to the horse. Some horsemen have horses
with which they can do nothing ; but place these same
horses with a born trainer, and the animals' ways are
soon mended. Much has been written on the vicious
horse. Professor Powell says " no horse is born wicked ;
but they vary in temperament." His proof is that several
vicious stallions (made so by spiteful grooms) known
to him have always bred kind, docile and intelligent
colts. The late Mr. Winans used to say that the reason
why we have so many vicious horses is because vicious
sires and dams are bred with on account of their speed
or action, temperament and manners being the last
point considered. But I am inclined to agree with
Powell, for I have recently been handling a two-year-old
Welsh-bred cob whose dam was a bad kicker, and the
filly was sold for fear she should inherit the vices of
her dam. I can truthfully say that this filly is absolutely
quiet and docile to ride or drive to-day, but no doubt
if she had been roughly handled and teased she would
have been made vicious.
Bad breaking, teasing, and cruelty all help to make a
horse vicious. The horse is an imitator, and he is
easily influenced for either good or bad, and soon forms
habits. Therefore act kindly and he will imitate you ;
always teach him good things and good habits, for this
212 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
wise treatment determines the career of the colt, and he
will invariably turn out a good fellow.
An Army life teaches one that there are several kinds
of horsemen. When I joined His Majesty's Army in
September, 1914, I naturally thought that I was going
to be of some practical use. But I was indirectly for-
bidden to have anything to do with the horses. I spent
several weeks tidying up the canteen a very congenial
occupation in the estimation of the other Tommies who
were on duty. But cleaning mustard-pots and polishing
knives did not fascinate me. I joined with very good
credentials, and they were all ignored. I rode when the
opportunity presented itself, but to obtain a regular
post with the horses was a practical impossibility.
The Commanding Officer, a most obnoxious man I
am free now to say what I choose used to take an
instant dislike to anyone who could ride a horse better
than he (like the royal gentleman who, hundreds
of years ago, used to have those who were better archers
than himself severely punished). So his subtle pets,
the Sergeant-major and Q.M.S., kept an eagle eye upon me.
At the first opportunity they marched me before the O.C.,
who promptly, without any cross-examination, instructed
the sergeant-major to take off my stripes.
The truth, which the O.C. would not listen to, was
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP 213
that our rations were being stolen and sold to the shop-
keepers, and my men, who were very dissatisfied and
hungry, were always grumbling and making complaints ;
so, in order to draw the officer's attention, they were
purposely late on parade or for duty, thinking it would
bring about a better menu instead of which it resulted
in my being " broken/' (Reduced to the Ranks).
The O.C., a man of small stature, had been in India,
and was used to dealing with black men, not white
men. He had, I heard afterwards, performed exactly
the same ceremony of breaking a N.C.O. who showed a
better aptitude for riding and general horsemanship
than he. When the O.C. was mounted he resembled a
country butcher-boy riding a pony to the blacksmith's,
with his shoulders shaking up and down and elbows
flapping, bad hands and an ugly seat. In spite of
having been with horses for many years, he knew very
little about them, and he lacked the gift he was so envious
of in other horsemen.
I remember a very funny incident taking place when
the veterinary officer and the same Commanding Officer
were examining mares that had proved to be in foal
how I purposely led an old gelding with a pot belly or
enlarged abdomen to be examined. The gelding was
casually observed, passed in-foal, and sent to the brood
214 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
mare section. How many other blunders were made
through similar presumptions as these ?
Whilst my services were still ignored as a horseman,
I saw city clerks, waiters and pianoforte-makers acting
as shoeing-smiths and roughriders, but I was generally
to be found on fatigue. Once I was commissioned to
become a " red-cap " a calling I strongly objected to.
The officers I came in contact with were a great scream.
Most of them were strangers to the animal called " the
horse/' I once heard a major ask the shoeing-smith
to " pick the beastly brute's paw up/' as he thought
there was something in the shoe (not the foot !).
My most exasperating experience was when I asked
for a responsible position with the horses, for I could
see how the poor things were being neglected for the
want of a competent organiser. I was promptly told
off by a captain, who said, " Whatever do you know
about horses ? " and questioned me with, " Where is
the horse's wind ? What is the most important thing
about the horse ? " questions I could not very well
answer politely to a superior officer.
I well recollect how in November, 1914, somewhere
in France, how I selected a beautiful chestnut gelding
from about two hundred remounts. He was very
green, but the correct type of middle-weight hunter. I
PERSONALITY IN HORSEMANSHIP 215
rode him when I got the opportunity, and schooled him
the best I could close to a farm where I was billeted. He
wanted plenty of riding and exceptionally good hands
essentially light ones or else he would soon get out of
control by rearing, after which he would turn nappy.
The guns had upset him a good bit. In good hands he
was perfectly topping.
On Christmas morning, 1914, I rode him to a village
to get some rations, and to my unpleasant surprise I
was confronted by the two officers I have already men-
tioned.
" Where did you get that brute from ? Dismount ! "
When I had obeyed my superior officer he had a
serious conflab with his colleague about the horse.
After which they decided to commandeer it.
But the fun did not commence until the captain
mounted him, his heavy, unskilled hands and sharp spurs
(fresh from Woolworth's) annoyed the fiery gelding so
that he stood up on his hind legs and pranced ; he
endured the snatching and jerking of the bit until he
was so upset that he bucked. Off came the officer and
away went the horse.
Most of the officers tried to ride him, but without
success. He was afterwards kept in a loose-box and no
one was allowed to ride him. If the C.O. had seen me
216 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
riding the horse in ease and comfort he would have had
me shot at dawn.
After being invalided home I was gazetted second-
lieutenant in the Royal Army Service Corps, but on
medical grounds I had to relinquish my commission.
(London Gazette, July 17, 1916.) It was at this period
that I took to a country life. I decided to utilise my
knowledge of the horse with a view to breeding and
training, and it was at this stage I wished I had been
born twenty years sooner, when the roads were made
for horses, not motor-cars.
DRIVING
Most of us at some time in our lives have driven a
horse. It seems quite an easy undertaking when the
horse is a congenial old fellow who knows his way about
fairly well. But, when spirited horses are to be dealt
with, then there are some people who would prefer to be
driven instead of driving themselves.
I hate to see the old gentleman who has " been used
to horses all his life/' as soon as he takes the reins, allows
the horse to race off at a terrific pace, a sort of trotting
with his forelegs and fox-trotting with his hind ones.
This type of driver will never be told, and he is usually
the gentleman who boasts of all sorts of numerous
DRIVING 217
accidents he has had. I don't wonder at it, if he handles
the ribbons the same with all the horses entrusted to his
care.
Always glance round the harness and rein-billets
before getting into the trap ; never rely on anyone :
always satisfy yourself. The reins should be held in the
left hand the left rein passing over the forefinger
and the right rein lying between the second and
third fingers. The thumb is always on top. The right
hand can assist when driving through traffic by lightly
taking hold of the right rein in front of the left hand.
Do not hang on too tightly to the reins ; just feel the
horse's mouth give and take.
Keep the horse going well up to the bit, keeping
the reins steady. Click him or give a stroke with the
whip ; never jerk or snatch the reins, as most bad
drivers do when they want the horse to go faster. Drive
fast and stop often. Never allow the horse to break or
gallop. When he feels as though he is just going to
" break up " or " bobble/' draw the reins tight and stop
him.
Never use a bearing-rein if the horse carries his head
badly ; drive him with an " over-check " for a few
weeks. This will teach him to carry his head in the
right place. If the horse throws his head use the Irish
2i8 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
martingale, or ordinary martingale. Always keep the
hands down, for when they are held high there is no
control over the animal should he stumble or require
checking. If the horse should stumble, never whip him,
and if he is a sure-footed one, pull up and look to his
feet, for there may be a stone wedged between the web
of the shoe and the frog.
If you are going on a long journey, always allow the
horse to go steadily for the first few miles. Some drivers
bustle for the first half of the journey and are content
to think they have the worst of it over. They are some-
times surprised, too, when the horse shows symptoms
of colic, through being hurried on a full stomach. A
frequent mouthful of water at intervals prevents colic.
Some poor horses go all day without tasting a drop of
water, because the driver is so afraid of gripes ; but
when the horse arrives home he has a good drink of
water (chilled water, as some folks call it, which I suppose
means chilly or cold instead of water with the chill
taken off). The empty stomach, the long interval and
fatigue usually bring on the much-fought -against com-
plaint gripes or colic.
The ordinary cold-blooded pony or cob who is lazy
to a degree and requires a good deal of whip is the most
difficult and uncomfortable of all horses to drive. The
DRIVING 219
shyer is dangerous and objectionable. The cob who
kicks is also very dangerous, and the runaway, of course,
is a sure suicide. Welsh cobs Bre usually very
even-tempered to drive ; they shy sometimes when
they are broken in near a quiet little village because
they see so few motors, but when they are used to all
traffic they are generally free from vice, are not too
spirited, and usually have good mouths. The Hackney
is a beautiful horse to drive, but he is sometimes
very spirited and gets very fresh ; this is often
mistaken for vice.
A good whip enjoys driving a high-couraged Hackney,
and it is pleasing to watch his action in the shop windows
when driving down the main streets.
The most pleasant of all to drive, in my opinion, is
the trotter. There are good and bad trotters, the same
as there are good and bad Hackneys and other breeds.
But I mean a " middlin 1 " good trotter not necessarily
a very fast one. I do so love to let him jog on the road
at about six miles an hour without any fuss or prancing
about. And when you say " Get up ! " he is off at
about twelve miles an hour in ease and comfort, carrying
his head well up and stepping free and easy and not
exhausting himself with extravagant action. And when
you want to pass another turnout you have only just
220 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
got to hold the reins a little tighter, and he " opens out "
and is soon trotting a three-minute gait that equals
twenty miles per hour.
I well remember a great drive I had with a trotter.
It happened that an old professor called at my farm
one day to see a colt I was training for him ; he wanted
to get to a particular destination in a certain time. Upon
looking at the time-table he found it could not be done
by train, so I suggested driving him with Cashmere, a
young trotting mare by Silk Twist. The professor said
he felt sure the mare could never do it. It was to be a
ten-mile journey, and I knew within a little that the
mare could cover the distance in about forty minutes.
However, we started. The mare jogged the first mile,
as I had always taught her to do.
The professor said, " I'm afraid I shall never be there
in time."
So I asked him to sit firmly on the road-sulky and
to hold tight. The mare was increasing her stride
and trotting a four-minute gait comfortably when we
arrived at my favourite five miles of level road. The
mare drew us through the air as if she had wings ; her
action behind was wide and strong ; she trotted clean
and .did not require boots of any description. We
covered the five miles in approximately fifteen minutes ;
DRIVING 221
the time taken for the ten-mile run was about thirty-
seven minutes, not more.
When I pulled the mare up she was not even blowing,
and was only just commencing to sweat.
The professor was so surprised that he said, " Do you
always train them to go like that ? " He said he had
driven behind hundreds of good horses, but never before
had he ridden behind such a grand goer as Cashmere.
In fact, he had more or less disregarded trotters, not
knowing how wonderful they really were.
I am anxious to deal as extensively as I possibly
can with the trotting-horse, both the British-bred
and the American-bred, because so few writers
have entertained the breed for what reason I cannot
understand.
No doubt one of the most enthusiastic trotting-horse
breeders was Mr. James Wood Packman, the owner
of Jim P., the popular trotting gelding. Trotting was
his hobby, and he did much to help the sport. It was
very sad when this genial sportsman had to relinquish
his interests from the sport on account of failing health.
The stud was afterwards carried on by his sons, who met
with great success as amateur owners and drivers. Farm
Girl, a beautiful mare by Heritor, won many races for
them.
222 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
Maggie Hummer, a granddaughter of George Hummer,
has created a big sensation for a three-year-old ; her
trainer, Mr. Jack Skinner, possessing a great gift for
training and developing youngsters, can be classed as
one of our best trainers. His ambition has been to
raise the standard of the British-bred trotter, and his
aim has been accomplished, for his young stallion
Archibald has beaten all records.
Probably the fastest mare in England to-day is Mary
Shawbay, an American trotter. I have only seen her
twice, but I feel sure this mare has a great future in
this country.
The most consistent pacer we have had in England
for many years is Richmond, a mile record, 2 mins:
18 sees. He was imported by the famous Canadian
trainer, Mr. Fred Metcalfe, and sold to Mr. Harry Smith,
who won many races with the horse and a first prize at
the Royal Richmond Horse Show, besides many private
matches. Richmond is a " double-barrel " sound horse,
and a credit to his breed.
THE WORLD'S CHAMPION TROTTING STALLION
The story of the famous stallion Lee Axworthy will be
interesting to all. This horse, who is by Guy Axworthy,
dam Gaiety Lee by Bingen, out of Gaiety Girl by Red
THE WORLD'S CHAMPION 223
Wilkes, and full sister to Gay Bingen, was bred at Ardmaer
Farm, Raritan, N.J., and foaled on May 31, 1911. He
was sold as a yearling at Madison Square Garden, but,
not satisfying his purchaser, was traded with another
colt to the Pastime Stable.
His new trainer got along well with him after he
had been fitted with a head-pole, and Lee Axworthy
soon showed promising signs, and in 1914 beat a
high-class field of three-year-olds, trotting in 2 mins.
8f sees, and 2 mins. 8 sees.
In August he met Peter Volo, who was looked upon
to win the Futurities, and made him trot in 2 mins.
4f sees, and 2 mins. 5f sees, to win.
He then developed a form of rheumatism, but was
good enough at Lexington in his last race of that season
to push Peter Volo to a head in 2 mins. 7^ sees, and
2 mins. 5 sees: in the first two heats, and to get
third in the final in 2 mins. 3^ sees.
In the following year Lee Axworthy won the M
and M. $10,000 classic at Detroit, 2 mins. 6J sees:,
2 mins. 4f sees., and 2 mins. 4! sees. Then came
a match with Peter Volo at North Randall, which
Lee won. Peter Volo scored in the first heat in 2 mins.
2 sees:, but Lee Axworthy gained in the second and
third in 2 mins. 3j sees, and 2 mins. 4^ sees.
224 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
In 1916 Lee Axworthy was only started against
time, and at the second Grand Circuit meeting at North
Randall he put up a record of 2 mins. J sec., thus
beating the famous performance of 2 mins. i sec.
by the Harvester at Columbus in 1910. His time for
a quarter-mile was 30^ sees., half-mile i min. J sec.,
three-quarters of a mile i min. 3o| sees. A few
days later he trotted another mile in exactly the same
time, the first quarter being traversed in 30 sees., the
half in i min. f sec., and the three-quarters in i min.
In September of the same year Lee Axworthy trotted
a wonderful mile, trotting every quarter in 30 secs.
dead, and the full mile in 2 mins., making him the
fourth trotter to enter the charmed circle and the second
to arrive there by a " mile in the open/' without a runner
in front to break the wind.
But later in that season he went to Lexington.
Track conditions were again perfect, but a rather strong
breeze blew up the home stretch, and few believed that
the champion would succeed, although he had tied
Father Time once and beaten the old gentleman twice
in the three trials previously. This time White took
him over to the quarter in 30^ sees., then he steamed
up to the half in 59! sees., and around to the three-
THE WORLD'S CHAMPION 225
quarters in i min. 28^ sees., the middle half in
58 mins. J sec. Swinging into the stretch, he
defiantly faced the breeze. Flesh and blood could not
maintain the terrific early clip against that handicap,
but the stroke of the lion-hearted bay was only slightly
stayed ; he came on past the stand full of wildly-cheering
thousands, reaching the goal in i min. 59 J sees.
Again Lee Axworthy had triumphed over the greatest of
all opponents.
And now we come to the greatest of all the great
performances of the stallion king. Desiring to take
advantage of the splendid brand of weather which
favoured the trots, Lee Axworthy was again scheduled
to try against his record on Saturday, three days after
his i min. 59^ sees. mile. It was a perfect day for
record breaking, warm, with the flags hanging limp and
a lightning-fast race-track. And such a day of record-
breaking performances started by the Real Lady with
a mile in 2 min, 4J sees., supplemented by sensa-
tional miles by Russell Boy, Braden Direct, Judge
Ormonde, Lucille Spier, Harrod's Creek, and the 2 mins.
3 sees, pacers were hanging up a new four-heat
record. But overshadowing all was the mile of Lee
Axworthy a mile that cast into the shade all his
previous performances and placed him on a pedestal
226 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
apart, far above any trotting stallion in the history of
the harness horse.
Those two stand-bys of the stallion king, Tom
Murphy and Ed. Wise, were on hand as usual with the
runners, the latter going to the back stretch where he
joined in, while Murphy accompanied the champion all
the way. When Starter Merrill gave the word, Lee was
fairly flying, the runner trailing him around the turn,
the timers registering 29! sees, at the quarter. " Too
fast ! " said some of the critics, for that first quarter
at Lexington is a slow one ; but the clip increased, and
the gallant bay was skimming the ground like a swallow
in full flight when Ed. Wise pulled in behind him with
the second runner. Past the half he flew, and the timing-
board showed 584 sees., the second quarter in 28f sees.
Could he come home ? was the question. The
way he answered it was superb, worthy of the king of
horsedom. Around the far upper turn the trio thun-
dered, and a thousand watches snapped at i min. 274
sees, as the champion's nose showed at the three-
quarter pole. The middle half had been covered in
57f sees., the pride of the clan of Axworthy was leading
the chase, was holding the Scythebearer safe.
In the stretch the supreme test came. Crouched
low in the sulky, Ben White was calling on the champion
THE WORLD'S CHAMPION 227
for the last great effort. Thundering at his sides were
the two runners the voices of Murphy and Wise blending
in the trumpet-call for speed. Tense and silent, the
grand-stand occupants were on their feet, pulling for
another victory. Tired he was (i min. 27! sees,
at the three-quarters explains that), but the lion-like
courage that had broken the hearts of the greatest
trotters in 1915 would not permit him to falter. Trotting
true with that frictionless stride, head high with " the look
of eagles " in his eyes, Lee Axworthy came to the wire
on that October afternoon, vanquishing Father Time
again. There was a sharp clang from the timer's stand,
and the board showed i min. 58J sees. Lee
Axworthy again had triumphed, and was seated more
firmly than ever on his throne.
The following week Lee was hitched to waggon, and
Mr. Devereux drove him a mile in 2 mins. 2| sees.,
the world's stallion record to that hitch, in spite of very
cold weather and a strong wind.
The champion goes clean in front with the exception
of a light pair of quarter boots. Behind he wears shin
boots and scalpers. An open bridle, the plainest of
harness, not to mention the fastest sulky in the world
there you have the outfit of the king of trotters.
Lee Axworthy is a beautiful mahogany bay, almost
228 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
solid in colour. The exceptions are a trace of white on
both hind pasterns and a faint star in his forehead. He
is a " big little " horse, standing 15 hands high, although
in harness he looks larger.
Time : One mile in i min. 58^ sees.
Chapter X
The Necessity of Soundness and Correct Training Balancing Badly-
fitting Harness The National Trotting-Horse Breeders' Show
The Rascal Wins the Pacer Class Harvest Star Wins the Cup
for Trotters Prince Gayton Wins the 1,000 Handicap
Archibald by Alvander Some Famous Trotting Stallions:
Their Records The Improvement of the Welsh Trotter The
North London Road Matches The Tradesman's Champion
Welsh Mare The Dark Horse from Wales The Late Walter
Winans' Harmony and Discord The Iceland Pony, Little Bill
The World's Champion Trotting Pony, Solomon The Trotting
Stallion Neglected Lord French and His Charger Govair The
Midland Buggy Horse.
Chapter X
THE BRITISH-BRED TROTTER
THE most valuable and appreciated animal is the one
with clean action, wearing the least artificial appliances
to balance. The true horseman will avoid as much as
possible the burdensome, unsightly, irritating and expen-
sive devices used to balance or, rather, cause the horse
for the time being to exert itself at a particular gait.
It is a regrettable fact (and one that time alone can
remedy) that from the very beginning the trotter and
pacer were not bred as two distinct strains and breeds.
If such precautions had been taken from the beginning
we would have at the present time two breeds trotters
and pacers of a very high state of perfection, which would
hold a standard in the art of domestic breeding.
As circumstances are with the light harness race-
horse at the present time, there are numerous ideas
that require consideration to help the animal to success
in the racing game.
I can give no more than a few fundamental principles
232 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
that are of important value, and when properly followed
will eliminate the trouble in many cases.
To properly balance a horse for racing, soundness is
the first and one of the most important considerations.
A horse may be apparently clean and sound, examined
by a veterinarian, recommended and sold as serviceably
sound, may be all right for any service and the transaction
business-like and legitimate, but race-horse soundness is,
and must be, a different consideration.
A race-horse, when actually engaged in a race,
requires and must exercise his full nerve energy and
physical body power, and every part of his anatomy
must be in condition fully to perform its function in
harmony with every other part. Therefore, if any
organ of the body is diseased or not fully developed and
hardened to stand the strain equal with every other
part, then that organ will weaken, irritate or pain, and
cause the animal to lack in its complete and satisfactory
performance.
Several horses are on record that were not sound, but
raced satisfactorily. On inquiry, we find that these
horses were exceptionally game, and kept in condition by
great expense of labour and capital, and in charge
of exceptionally good horsemen. I believe that, had they
been sound, they would have been better race-horses,
THE BRITISH-BRED TROTTER 233
One of the most expensive and critical considerations
with balancing light harness race-horses is shoein^.
During the last decade many ideas and changes have
taken place and been tried out. The trend of opinion
gradually leads to simple and plain shoeing. I favour
a simple plain shoe, and no more iron than is
required to protect the wall of the foot. By repeated
experiences I am conscious that, in general, horses are
required to carry too much weight, especially the
lower-class race-horses that are in training. Weight in
shoe cannot make speed or develop soundness. When
weight is required to balance action, then the limbs of
the animal should be relieved and given rest as much
as possible, no toe weights left on over night, and shoes
frequently taken off.
The angle of the foot is very important, and must be
defined by the natural form and structure of the animal.
When the horse wears his shoe evenly over all the surface
then the angle is right, but when the shoe is worn
down at one place more than at others the wall of
the foot is either too high at the place where the
shoe is worn most, or too low where the shoe is worn
least. Forming the angle this way sometimes causes
an odd-shaped foot ; this is due to the peculiar form and
structure of the limb,
234 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
When shoeing a race-horse it must be borne in mind
that there is nothing gained by sacrificing the limb to
improve the foot. Therefore the angle of the foot, the
weight, size and form of the shoe must be such as to
give support, protection and free action to the limb and
no more bearing than is necessary.
Driving is an important consideration in balancing
and gaiting horses. A driver that cannot sit quiet and
mannerly for all distances cannot expect his charge to
act mannerly.
Many cases of interfering, forging, etc., are due to
loafing or slow exercising.
Driving a horse longer distances and with more speed
than his condition allows is a frequent cause of faulty
action. Badly -fitting harness and boots sometimes cause
a horse to feel disagreeable and behave and act badly.
TROTTING HORSES
The National Trotting-Horse Breeders' Association,
of which the Earl of Lonsdale was president, had
made all necessary arrangements for their annual show,
with the exception of the selection of judges. Imagine
my enthusiasm when I received a letter from the com-
mittee asking me to act as judge. The show was a great
success, and there were more entries than the previous
[ From a painting by Clark.
GEORGE HUMMER." RECORD, 2.2O. AMERICAN TROTTING STALLION.
PROPERTY OF THE AUTHOR.
Photo by]
[O. H. Parsons.
HACKNEY STALLION. CHAMPION " AI.BIN WILDFIRE," 10551.
PROPERTY OF WALTER BRIGGS, ESQ.
TROTTING HORSES 235
year on account of so many American trotters having
been imported. I think there were twenty-two entries
in one class of pacers, and it took some considerable
time for me to give my decision, as I was very keen on
placing the right one.
The gentlemen who were assisting me were both very
fine judges of Hackneys and Thoroughbreds, but they
had not studied the trotting-horse, so they decided
to leave the selecting to me. I drove most of the
horses to give both the horse and owner a sporting chance.
The horse I awarded first prize to was The Rascal, a new
import. He was the best pacer I think I had ever seen
on the track. There was considerable diversity of
opinion as to my judgment : some were satisfied with
my decision and some were not, the reason being that
Lady Osgood, who was second, looked so good that it
was difficult for anyone but an expert to determine
which was really the better of the two. But I was
pleased when Lady Osgood's owner, Mr. Turner, shook
hands with me and said, " You have given the best
horse the prize/' I was further delighted the following
week when The Rascal made a new British record, pacing
a mile in 2 mins. I2j sees. I think he is still un-
beaten, or he was the last time I saw him at Greenford
Driving Park.
236 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
When I was judging Mr. Winans' mare, The Elf, in
this class, the public were all certain she was going
to be the winner, for at all previous shows she had
always carried off the winning colours : she was a favourite.
As I drove her by the grand-stand the cheers and applause
were tremendous. If I had given her the prize I think
everybody would have been satisfied. My two colleagues
were of the opinion that she was the best pacer ; but, as
much as I liked The Elf, whose sire, George Hummer, was
at that time in my loose-box at home, my conscience
would not allow me to award her the first, second,
or even third prize, when there were faster and
better-class horses competing against her. Mr. Winans
said he had waited a good many years to find the
horse to beat her, and he was quite pleased with the
awards.
(Richmond won the pacers' class the first day at
Richmond Show over Lady Osgood, and Lady Osgood
won the cup in the final class, but The Rascal was not
entered then.)
In the class for trotters I was again given a great
task, and after driving several horses I awarded the
prize to Mr. Walter Winans' pony, Harvest Star. He
was the truest and squarest trotter I ever saw move,
and although a trifle smaller than some of the other
TROTTING HORSES 237
horses, he was decidedly the best trotter in the show.
Mr. Winans was perplexed over his three beautiful
trotters, and he said he did not know really which
one was going to get a prize. He thought Discord
stood a good chance on account of his splendid
conformation ; again, he had a soft corner for Henri-
etta Guy, but he knew Harvest Star was the best
trotter.
The awards were : Harvest Star first ; Mr. Vincent's
Prince Gayton second ; and Mr. Winans' Henrietta
Guy third.
The following week Harvest Star won the champion-
ship for trotters at Richmond Horse Show under the
most eminent judges.
Prince Gayton won the 1,000 trotting stakes soon
afterwards at Manchester.
The American trotters recently imported have made
some good records ; but some of the British-bred trotters
have done remarkably well. Archibald, a young trotter
by Alvander, has made a 2 mins. 20 sees, record,
and his half-brother, Vanalder, holds the British-bred
stallion record of 2 mins. 20 sees. The chestnut
stallion Set aba, quite a pony, has covered a mile in 2
mins. 17 sees., which entitles him to the British-bred
pony-pacing record.
238 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
The British-bred trotter is a sounder animal than his
American cousin. A great many of the American
trotters trotting here to-day require an enormous amount
of nursing and doctoring before they are ready for a
race ; this may be due to their having been overdone
when in the States. But the British-bred trotter is a
very hardy horse ; I can give a few instances to prove
this.
Several London tradesmen who indulge in the trotting
sport can often be seen driving their trotters in their
trade- vans, either going or returning from market. They
use the same trotter in the governess-cart for the after-
noon drive, and the same trotter can be seen taking part
in a race at either Greenford Driving Park or Parsloes
Park on any Monday afternoon.
The British-bred trotter is usually got by an American
trotter out of a Welsh mare, Hackney mare or a trotting
mare. When out of the latter, they usually have more
speed.
In Wales for the past ten years the Welsh farmers
have experimented rather largely in the breeding of
the British-bred trotter, although in Wales the
progeny still retains the name " Welsh."
TROTTING HORSES 239
The trotting stallions :
MINS. SECS.
Heritor American record * * 2 6J
Silk Twist ' 2 12
Collino 8 * ,, * ' 2 14
St. Pagans Bay ' 2 15
Panmount * * ,, * 2 27
Little Bantam British 2 30
Alphonso ' 2 30
Young Solomon 2 45
Onward " * 2 35
Baron Alfred . . ,, . . 2 12
have been used to a great many Welsh mares. Silk
Twist has been accepted for registration in the Welsh
Stud Book, so many of his stock being so true to the
Welsh type.
I remember a friend buying a beautiful cob from
Wales. I admired it so much, that I persuaded him to
write to the farmer and ask, for curiosity, how she was
bred. My friend insisted that she was a Welsh mare,
but the farmer's reply proved that what I had thought
was correct. The mare was by Silk Twist ; dam, a Welsh
mare.
A great many Welsh farmers have improved their
own particular strain of Welsh trotters by using the
240 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
trotting stallion ; invariably the stock are cobby and of
Welsh conformation.
And again, the trotting stallion upholds the old
Welsh cob's tradition of stamina and speed. The mare
Cashmere I have previously referred to, by Silk Twist
out of a Welsh Express mare, was a very strong mare,
with quite eight inches of bone, splendid shoulders and
strong, powerful quarters, and obviously Welsh to the
eyes of the average horseman. She was a far better
specimen than any of the Arab or Hackney crosses I
have seen. By crossing with the Arab the progeny are
bad trotters ; when crossed with the Hackney they are
more cobby, but lose the speed ; whereas, when the
Welsh mare is crossed with the trotting stallion, the
progeny enjoys a perfect combination of bone, stamina
and speed.
I remember a few road-matches in North London a
few years ago when a tradesman was having matches
galore and winning every time with his Welsh mare.
The mare was a typical old Welsh sort of the Comet type.
Well, a London publican was determined to win a match
with his Welsh Hackney mare, but alas ! after the first
six miles his mare was dead beat and the old Welsh
mare completed the ten miles without turning the
proverbial hair. The publican was anxious to beat the
TROTTING HORSES 241
Welsh mare, so he took a trip down to Wales with
some friends, and they tried several good Welsh cobs,
with the watch in hand, but it was difficult to find one
who could trot ten miles in 30 minutes, for that was the
old Welsh mare's time, up steep hills and down.
Eventually the publican and his friends heard of a
fast black trotting mare that had been on the track, but
was a better road mare, so they journeyed many miles to
see her. Upon their arrival they partook of refreshments
and duly viewed the mare. When one of the friends
saw the mare he said, " Why, that's the saucy lady I
had at ; she is no good. Waste of time coming
here/' The owner, upon hearing this remark, offered
to drive them 10 miles inside of 30 minutes for 100 wager.
This challenge somewhat puzzled the gentleman who
knew the mare, for he had had her only for track-racing,
and she was only trained for a mile race and proved her-
self no good for the track. She was also erratic. It ap-
peared that several of her various owners had grown tired
of her, but her present owner only used her for a trapper,
and had discovered that she was a great stayer and
very fast. After the first five or six miles he found that
she could trot the seventh mile in 2 mins. 45 sees.,
providing the road at that particular place was level and
not loose, and ordinarily she could trot a mile in 3 mins.
242 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
A deal was effected, and shortly after another
match was made in North London. It so happened
that at the seventh mile the road was level, and the
mare, being fit and ready for the match, trotted it
inside 2 mins. 45 sees., and won easily. Very few
people fancied her, and a good wager was to be
obtained.
I heard on good authority that this mare was by
one of the stallions I have mentioned, out of a Welsh
pony. There was a great deal of secrecy about the match,
and also the mare and her whereabouts, but I heard all
about her from an ever-flowing source. It was rumoured
after the match that the mare was loaned by Walter
Winans, Esq., but only one or two knew where she really
came from.
The late Mr. Winans' pair of British-bred trotters,
Harmony and Discord, were by a Hackney stallion. Mr.
Winans told me he once had a very good trotting mare,
Lady Brilliant. He bought her to be of a certain strain,
but afterwards found out she was a " Ringer/' and was
really a Wilkes mare. She was a wonderful goer, and
he was anxious to breed with her, and it was Mr. Vivian
Gooch who advised him to have the mare covered by His
Majesty, the Hackney stallion. She was covered two
years in succession and her two colts turned out to be
TROTTING HORSES 243
a charming pair of trotters, big, upstanding horses,
powerful enough to pull a van.
I almost cried when I saw them sold at Aldridge's,
after the death of Mr. Winans. They were parted, and
only realised about 100 guineas each. A few days after
the sale one of my friends told me that he specially
wanted them for the Marathon and would have gone
to 500 guineas for the pair. I tried to locate them, but
failed. I would have given anything to have brought
these two brothers together again.
The Iceland pony, who is very peculiar in shape and
resembles a pig, has done wonderfully well on the race-
tracks. Several have paced a mile in 2 mins. 50
sees., but most of them are good three-minute ponies,
a mile being their distance. They are no good for long
journeys, and soon tire unless driven very carefully.
They cross well with the trotting stallion, and many
fast pacers seen to-day on the tracks are crosses between
the trotting stallion and the Iceland pony. Little Bill,
the n-hand Iceland pony, was bought from a drove of
Iceland ponies for, I think, 11. The late William
Cosburn, a pony-lover, eventually bought him for 12,
trained the mite, and won several pony handicaps
with him. He changed hands afterwards for 60 guineas.
Perhaps the greatest trotting pony who ever raced
244 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
was Solomon, got by an American circus stallion out of
a Welsh pony. He found his way to the home of Mr.
Sampson, of Wembley, whose wife made a pet of him
and taught him many tricks. Mr. Sampson owned
trotters, and little thought Solomon was destined to
become the world's champion. He was eventually
broken and trained, and won the world's pony champion-
ship in July, 1907, trotting the mile in 2 mins. 28
sees. He was an odd-coloured pony, and the sire
of many good winners, including Young Solomon,
Ruby P. and Sunbeam. His end was just as tragic as
his beginning was romantic, for he was taken to South
Africa by a wealthy African farmer, for the express
purpose of trotting a match against his neighbour's
champion African pony. Needless to say, Solomon
won.
During the war Solomon successfully carried his
owner through several engagements, but finally a tragic
end befell them both, for after their last engagement
both master and horse failed to return, and eventually
the remains of Solomon were found beside those of his
master : they had been shot, and afterwards devoured
by the vultures truly a ghastly end, but, nevertheless, a
grand tribute to a British-bred trotter.
Trotters vary a great deal in disposition. Some
TROTTING HORSES 245
are wonderful race-horses on the track and absolutely
worthless on the road, while others are ideal trappers and
no good for the track. But I do know of one or two
who were delightful on the track, for there they were
little money-makers, and were dreams on the road.
If all the horses had been like Happy H., Silver Tail,
Little Rice, Lexington, Mr. Randall's roan gelding
Romf ord, Prentice Boy, or Grace Greenlander there would
have been no need for the Ford car. I drove home
behind Happy H. fourteen years ago after she won a race
on the track. I think she must have flown, for the seven
miles were covered within 25 mins. ; she went in and
out the traffic like a street arab, and gloried in flying
past a big electric tram-car. She stood 14 hands, and
had trotted twenty miles in 60 mins. Any child
could drive her, she was so gentle and kind.
If any of my readers are prejudiced against the trotter
let them go to any trotting-horse owner near to their
home, either produce this book or explain their mission,
and politely demand a drive. I guarantee their opinion
will be like the old professor's after his drive behind
Cashmere. A man who does not like a trotter has
obviously never driven behind a good one.
I once drove behind a Hackney whose owner was a
keen Hackney breeder. After about twelve miles I
246 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
noticed his hind action, instead of getting wider, got
closer, and eventually he began to brush, which necessi-
tated our making a Yorkshire boot. I was quite reason-
able ; I did not judge all Hackneys by this particular one,
for this gentleman had a Hackney mare who could trot
a journey alongside any trotter. She was a most charm-
ing mare ; in fact, she was more like a trotter than a
Hackney.
True, the British-bred trotter has been described as
a nondescript. Why ? Because he has never been
given a fair chance. No one endeavoured to form a
society until the National Trotting-Horse Breeders'
Association was formed during the war, when trotters
were so scarce; and the few dozen bred through this
effort are, I am pleased to say, of uniform type. Usually
the trotting stallion is used to ordinary mares. I have
known a famous trotting stallion to cover in one season
a few Iceland pony mares, two or three thoroughbred
mares, Welsh ponies and Forest ponies, besides a few
Hackney mares but not the pure trotting-bred mares,
because they are being raced, and race-horse owners seldom
take interest in breeding. So can one wonder that the
British-bred trotters are nondescript ?
There is one thing I should like to say, and that is,
when anyone breeds a pony or cob out of any of the
TROTTING HORSES 247
above-mentioned mares, they will be slow in getting rid
of it, for the trotting stallion stamps his progeny, and
always leaves a nice wide gait, with good action, long
forearms and short cannon-bones, and a great many of
them make good hacks.
Lord French used to ride a good charger, which was
greatly admired. Few people knew that the magnificent
charger was Govair, the famous trotting stallion, the
sire of Lord Harry and other winners.
Some of the best road ponies to-day are got by breed-
ing the Welsh pony to the trotting stallion. These
ponies are fast, and have good courage, very sorty and
wonderful journey-ponies. For the pony-lover who
enjoys driving a good pony, and the pony-breeder who
wishes to uphold his reputation, I recommend the
British-bred pony, for this pony is easily bred, and
always comes true to type. The bone and stamina come
from the Welsh dam, while the trotting stallion provides
speed, courage and quality. Many of these ponies are
to be seen in Wales to-day, and are the pride of the
Welsh farmers, who are reputed to breed, own and drive
a good pony.
The Cleveland bay has been crossed successfully
with the trotter. Many years ago George Hummer
covered Yorkshire and Cleveland bay mares. The result
248 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
was a very fine roadster. Some of these beautiful
roadsters that were driven in the Midlands about
twenty years ago were making strong headway, and
had it not been for the introduction of the motor-car, this
breed (the Yorkshire or Cleveland bay trotter cross)
would have established itself as a distinct driving breed.
The Midland roadster or buggy horse stood about 15*1
to 15-3, and possessed beautiful quality, good bone,
great speed and endurance. I have bred with broken-
down trotting mares, for after the mare has finished
trotting she can be bought for a mere song, and usually
proves to be a valuable brood mare.
It will be interesting to give the details of the world's
amateur driving records made by the late Mr. Walter
Winans at Parsloe Park, Essex, shortly before he died.
First he drove The Elf, by the trotting stallion George
Hummer, one mile, the first half trotting and the second
half pacing to waggon to establish an amateur double-
gaited record for the distance. The times recorded
were :
MINS. SECS.
First half (trotting) 2 32
Second half (pacing) i 25!
The full mile was therefore covered in 3 mins.
57f sees. Later Mr. Winans went out with his three-
ONE-MILE RECORDS 249
year-old filly, Henrietta Guy, in an attempt to beat
the mile open amateur record to waggon of 2 mins.
34 sees, held by the said mare. She equalled record.
Mr. Winans also drove his pair of trotters, Discord
and Harmony, two miles to waggon in an attempt to
beat world's record, both amateur and professional ;
also the world's record for trotters by Hackney sires of
6 mins. 44 sees., and this he easily succeeded in
doing, the times recorded being :
MINS. SECS
Quarter-mile o 52^
Half-mile I 44
Three-quarters 2 34
Mile 3 23!
Mile-and-a-quarter * * "4 *2f
Mile-and-a-half * ' "51
Mile-and-three-quarters * ' * * 5 50
Two miles 6 37
The world's record was therefore lowered by no less
than 7 sees.
ONE-MILE RECORDS BY BRITISH-BRED TROTTERS
Mare : Princess May. Greenwich Park, Aintree,
April 29, 1895. 2 mins. 40 sees.
250 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
Stallion : Spinning Wheel, by Wheel of Fortune ;
dam, Saucy Sarah. Glasgow, July 19, 1915. 2 mins.
30 sees.
THE BRITISH TROTTING RECORD, 1922
Mr. Milnes' Archibald, British-bred trotter, by Al-
vander, trained by Mr. Jack Skinner. 2 mins. 14! sees.
NEW AMERICAN TROTTING RECORD, IQ22
Over the mile track at Columbus, Ohio, the champion
trotting gelding Peter Manning, by Azoff , gave its greatest
speed exhibition on September 28. Going a mile to beat
I -59i> the great gelding trotted the mile in 1.57. Peter
Manning trotted the first quarter-mile in 29! sees., the
half-mile in 58|, was at the three-quarters in 1.27^, and
by coming the full mile in 1.57, put up a new world's
record. Some watches caught this mile in i.56f, and a
week later at Lexington, Kentucky, Peter Manning still
further reduced the record to this figure.
MATHRAFAL BRENIN," 873 W.S.B. WELSH COB STALLION
PROPERTY OF FREDK. BUTLER, ESQ.
Photo by]
Merrett Bros.
" YOUNG SOLOMON." THE BRITISH-BRED TROTTING STALLICN.
PROPERTY OF J. HYDE, ESQ.
Chapter XI
The American Pacer The Greatest Sire, Peter the Great Champion
Trotters as Sires British Records and Performances Pony
Records Flying Start Records Pair-horse Records Guideless
Records The London Trotting Club The Colour Question
Foals Picture Horses.
Chapter XI
THE AMERICAN PACER
THE Wilkes blood, through San Francisco, leads in
America with the fastest pacer of 1921 in Sanardo, and
he is a double Wilkes, his dam being by Mobel, son of
Moko. In the Electioneer family the honours in the
matter of his sons getting fast pacers go to Cochato,
three-year-old record, 2 mins. 4^ sees., one of the
early sons of Todd, greatest son of Bingen. Todd was
double-gaited and could pace well, although trained only
for trotting. His son, Cochato, is the grand-sire of John
Henry, 2 mins. loj sees., and Walter K., 2 mins.
2f sees., a pair that raced well, the first -named
being by Wilkoe and the latter by Walter Cochato,
2 mins. 2j sees, on the pace. With a little better
chance in the early part of his career Walter Cochato
would probably have been a member of the 2 mins.
list, but he was such an unpromising chunk of horseflesh
as a yearling that when led into the ring $80 was
the best bid for him, and he got a new owner at that
*33
254 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
figure. But Walter Cochato had extreme speed, and
has a right to sire pacers of the best class, since his dam
is by Patchen Wilkes, 2 mins. 29! sees., grandam by
Belmont, 6 mins. 4 sees.
An ugly duckling among horses, the long, low-headed
black pacer may prove to be the star of his family in
the matter of begetting speed, although to attain this
position as regards the Todd family in general he will
have to do a lot, sons of Todd being notable for the
brand of early speed at the pace they are able to send
forth every season. Todd unquestionably took to the
pace because his sire, Bingen, was troubled that way at
times, and Bingen paced in all probability because his
first and second dams were sired by sons of George
Wilkes, who was a very fast pacer, although the fact
was carefully concealed during his lifetime.
The second fastest pacer of 1921 is Hal Mahone,
2 mins. i sec. He is by Prince Argot Hal, and the
sire of that horse is Argot Hal, 2 mins. 7^ sees., the
only strictly pacing-bred trotter that was pretty close
to a top-sawyer on the Grand Circuit.
Argot Hal was sired by Brown Hal, 2 mins. 12^
sees., one-time champion pacing stallion and easily
the greatest pacing sire. The dam of Argot Hal was by
Duplex, 2 mins. 17^ sees., a Tennessee pacer Ed.
THE AMERICAN PACER 255
Geers brought north on one of his early campaigns.
That was a long time ago, and a 2 mins. 17^ sees,
pacer nowadays would not have much chance in America
at the bush meetings, let alone on the Grand Circuit.
Argot Hal was brought out by Ed. Benyon and his
son Jimmy, the latter doing the driving, and he won
all his starts on the Grand Circuit. He then retired,
but later was trained again, this time on the pace, and
took a record of 2 mins. 4f sees, at that way of going.
There is now quite a bunch of double-gaited horses
that have made the 2 mins. 10 sees, list at both
the trot and the pace, but the fastest of them all, Prince
Loree, leads decisively at both gaits, his marks being
2 mins. 3^ sees, and 2 mins. respectively. He was
a fine trotter, winning the Transylvania in 1919.
The facts about Prince Loree (which is trotting-bred)
and Argot Hal (which is pacing-bred) demonstrate that
the trot and the pace are very closely related in more
ways than one. Brown Hal, sire of Argot Hal, was
strictly pacing-bred, yet in his younger days, when
pacers were of little value as racing tools, the stallion
was trained at the trot, showed a mile in 2 mins. 21
sees, at that way of going, and was sent north
from his home in Tennessee with the idea that he would
make good at the better sort of meetings in the slow
256 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
classes. He started at Chicago, but never was prominent,
getting tangled in his gait before going very far, and after
that his owners decided he was a pacer, and this way
of regarding the matter gave them a champion pacer
and a sire that for a time led all other horses as a be-
getter of pacing speed that could win on the Grand Circuit.
THE GREATEST SIRE
PETER THE GREAT
RECORD, 2 MINS. 7J SECS.,
Sire of eighty-six in the 2 mins. 10 sees. list.
By Pilot Medium ... Dam, Santos, Grand Sentinel.
By Happy Medium ... Dam by Pilot Junior 12.
It has been recently stated that few people could
give a good guess as to the source of this famous sire's
greatness. The writer's opinion has long been that the
doubling up in the pedigree of Peter the Great of the
blood of the wonderful progenitor, Pilot Junior, will
account for a lot of the greatness of the wonder sire.
Pilot Junior mares were the dams of the first pair of
2 mins. 10 sees, trotters : Maud S., 2 mins. 8f sees.,
and Jay Eye See, 2 mins. 10 sees. Miss Russell,
daughter of Pilot Junior, not only produced a new
sort of trotter in Maud S., but another of her foals,
Nutwood, 2 mins. i8f sees., was at one time a
CHAMPION TROTTERS AS SIRES 257
champion sire, and his daughters have done much to
help the sires of the past quarter of a century in the
production of first-class trotters and sires.
A brother of Maud S. (Lord Russell) got Kremlin,
2 mins. 7f sees., champion trotting stallion of his
day, and the Kremlin mares are prominent as producers
of speed, one of the leading sons of Bingen (Bingara)
getting nearly all his good trotters from Kremlin mares,
although his fastest, Millie Irwin, 2 mins. 3j sees., is
from the Red Wilkes mare.
The Gaiety Girl was 2 mins. 15^ sees. But the
Gaiety Girl is a truly great brood mare, and her blood
breeds on, one of her daughters (by Bingen) being the
dam of Lee Axworthy, i min. 58^ sees.
CHAMPION TROTTERS AS SIRES
American champion stallions have not as a whole
proved outstanding successes as sires. Champions in-
evitably have a lot taken out of them, even though their
track careers are not always extensive. The pace is
what does the work, and the faster the pace the greater
the drain on the vitality of the horse. So when a Lee
Axworthy comes along he does more in his best season, so
far as exhausting speed efforts are concerned, than some
of his predecessors accomplished in entire careers.
258 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
The list of champion trotting stallions, beginning
with Ethan Allen, 2 mins. 28 sees., in 1858, contains
eighteen names. Before the 2 mins. 20 sees, mark
was reached by a stallion the outstanding figure among
the champions as a sire and progenitor was George Wilkes,
2 mins. 22 sees., and nothing like him in those
particulars has since been seen. The total failure among
such horses was Fearnaught, which lowered the stallion
figures to 2 mins. 23^ sees, in 1868. Ethan Allen,
2 mins. 28 sees:, George M. Patchen, 2 mins. 23^ sees.,
and Jay Gould, 2 mins. 2i| sees., of that era, were
good sires, but not to be mentioned in comparison
with George Wilkes.
Mambrino Gift, 2 mins. 20 sees., the first stallion
to trot in that time, was a fairly good sire, but not a
crack. Then came Smuggler, which lowered the record
for entire horses to 2 mins. 15^ sees., and was an
absolute top-sort race-horse, as the records show. He
was a total failure in the breeding ranks. Phallas,
2 mins. 13! sees., was the first stallion to beat
2 mins. 15 sees. Much was expected of him in the
stud, he being a son of Dictator, then in his prime as
a truly great sire, but the Dictator blood did not breed
on as did some other strains, and, while it was pure gold,
the quantity was limited, neither the head of the house
CHAMPION TROTTERS AS SIRES 259
nor his sons being very sure foal-getters. Phallas did
fairly well. He sired one 2 mins. 10 sees, trotter,
and the dam of another, which tells his story when
2 mins. 10 sees, is the standard by which measurements
are made. The Phallas strain is no more heard of.
Maxie Cobb, 2 mins. 13^ sees;, which dethroned
Phallas, was another absolute failure as a sire or a
progenitor. He was by Happy Medium ; he stopped in
the home stretch just like a lot of other Happy Mediums,
and when he failed utterly as a sire the fact was looked
upon as perfectly natural by every horseman of that
day. Since then the Happy Medium strain in the male
line has given the world Peter the Great, and a son of
Happy Medium sired the dam of Lou Dillon, I min.
58| sees., the first two-minutes trotter. Happy Medium
himself sired a champion trotter, Nancy Hanks, 2 mins.
4 sees., first member of the 2 mins. 5 sees, list for her
gait, and dam of a 2 mins. 4f sees, trotter.
All this is here stated to show how public opinion may
change relative to the value of a strain of blood once
almost despised. The Dictator blood helped Happy
Medium to produce a Nancy Hanks. The Pilot Junior
strain was a notable factor in the production of Pilot
Medium, sire of Peter the Great, all of which tends to
show that, whib the Happy Medium blood was at first
260 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
almost a failure, it needed only the proper blend of blood
from some other source to make it superlatively great.
After Maxie Cobb, among American champion trot-
ting stallions came Axtell, 2 mins. 12 sees, as a three-
year-old. Through his son Axworthy, three-year-old,
2 mins. 15! sees., Axtel has made a great name for
himself as a progenitor, for Axworthy as a sire and a
progenitor is very hard to beat. He heads in the matter
of daughters that are the dams of 2 mins. 10 sec. trotters.
His son, Guy Axworthy, is the only sire of two 2 mins.
trotters : Lee Axworthy, i min. 58^ sees., and Arion
Guy, i min. 59^ sees. Another son, Dillon Axworthy,
three-year-old record, 2 mins. ioj sees., is by far the
greatest speed sire of his age, 2 mins. 10 sees, on the
trot being the standard, and his stock are almost uniformly
colt trotters of the best sort, they having at one time
and another held the record for three-year-olds (2 mins.
2f sees.), for two-year-old geldings (2 mins. 7^ sees.),
and for three-year-olds in a race (2 mins. 3^ sees.), those
marks being made, respectively, by Sister Bertha, Nor-
man Dillon and Miss Bertha Dillon. Lee Axworthy
made a record no other horse ever approached in his
first season in the stud, sixteen of his first crop taking
2 mins. 30 sees., or better records as two-year-olds, and
Lee Axworthy is a great-grandson of Axtell.
BRITISH RECORDS 261
It will be seen that there are a lot of good reasons why
Lee Axworthy, of all the champion trotting stallions, is
the best as a sire as well as in the speed department. He
is the last of eighteen champions, the first of which made
his record more than sixty years ago and he is the best.
It was indeed a body blow to the breeding interests when
he died.
Hummer was a most consistent sire of speed in both
trotters and pacers, most of them being in the 2 mins.
10 sees. list. His famous son, George Hummer, record
2 mins. 20 sees., was imported to this country in 1892.
Among his progeny there is the stallion King Hummer,
whose mile record is 2 mins. 17 sees.
BRITISH RECORDS AND NOTABLE
PERFORMANCES
HANDICAP PERFORMANCES
Six Furlongs.
Leicester Square, brown gelding (American bred),
pacer, i min. 41 sees., owing 20 yards in 6 furlongs.
Audenshaw, June 25, 1921. 2 mins. 13 sees. gait.
Abe Direct, grey gelding (American bred), trotter,
i min. 40 sees., receiving 50 yards in 6 furlongs.
Audenshaw, October 17, 1921. 2 mins. 19 sees. gait.
Setaba, ch/ stallion by Stanley R., dam, Mabel A.,
262 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
pacer, i min. 40 sees., receiving 30 yards. Blackpool,
June 26, 1916. 2 mins. 17 sees. gait. (British-bred
record.)
Miss Bingen, by Master Bingen, pacer. min.
38! sees., receiving 225 yards. Audenshaw, March 29,
1918. 2 mins. 39 sees. gait. (British-bred two-year-
old record.)
One Mile.
Frank Dewey, bay stallion (American bred), pacer.
2 mins. n sees, for i mile from scratch. Audenshaw,
August 15, 1921. (British mile record, also pacing
stallion record.)
On the Rhine, bay stallion (American bred), trotter.
2 mins. 18 sees., receiving 20 yards in i mile. Auden-
shaw, June 28, 1920. 2 mins. 20 sees. gait. (Trotting
stallion record.)
Dorothy Dombey, grey mare (American bred), trotter.
2 mins. 14 sees., receiving 50 yards in i mile. Southend,
August 8, 1906. 2 mins. 18 sees. gait.
Lelula, bay filly (American bred), trotter. 2 mins.
3iJ sees., receiving 40 yards. Audenshaw, September 12,
1921. 2 mins. 35 sees. gait. (Two-year-old trotting
record.)
George Hummer, bay stallion, trotter, 2 mins. 20
sees. gait. (Exhibition record.)
BRITISH RECORDS 263
British-Breds.
Butcher Boy, bay gelding, by Limestone, pacer.
2 mins. 36! sees, owing 260 yards. Parsloes Park,
May 16, 1910. 2 mins. 16 sees. gait. (British-bred
record.)
Jenny Lind, black mare, by Callino, dam, Jenny
Lind II., pacer. 2 mins. i8| sees, from scratch. Vic-
toria Grounds, March 6, 1911. 2 mins. i8| sees. gait.
(British-bred pacing mare record.)
Vanalder, bay stallion, by Alvander, dam, White
Heather, pacer. 2 mins. 25 sees., owing 65 yards in
1 mile. Audenshaw, May 10, 1920. 2 mins. 20 sees,
gait. (British-bred stallion record.)
Archibald, colt, by Alvander, dam, Laurel Belle,
trotter. 2 mins. 23 sees., receiving 145 yards. Black-
pool, September 18, 1917. 2 mins. 36 sees. gait.
(British-bred three-year-old trotting record.)
King Hummer, by George Hummer, pacer. 2 mins.
17 sees. gait. (Belfast record.)
Hummer's Pride, bay filly, by King Hummer, dam,
Pride of Springfield, pacer. Audenshaw, November 30,
1920. 2 mins. 20 sees, for I mile from scratch. (Three-
year-old pacing record.)
Lorento, colt, by Onward, dam, Lady Kate, trotter.
2 mins. 35 sees., receiving 185 yards. Audenshaw,
264 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
July 8, 1916. 2 mins. 53! sees. gait. (British-bred
two-year-old trotting record.)
Colonel Hummer, bay colt, by King Hummer, pacer.
2 mins. 24 sees., receiving 140 yards in I mile, 100 yards.
Audenshaw, December 28, 1915. 2 mins. 27^ sees,
gait. (British-bred two-year-old pacing record.)
Hummer's Pride, bay filly, by King Hummer, dam,
Pride of Springfield. 2 mins. 36! sees., owing 105
yards in i mile. Audenshaw, November 25, 1919.
2 mins. 27^ sees. gait. (Ties the British-bred two-year-
old pacing record.)
Lorengo, black filly, by King Hummer, pacer,
2 mins. 30 sees., receiving 165 yards. Audenshaw,
September 7, 1918. 2 mins. 46 sees. gait. (British-bred
yearling record.
\
One-and-a-Half Miles.
Pontiac, ch. gelding (American bred), pacer. 3 mins.
28f sees, from scratch. Imber Court, May 13, 1912.
2 mins. 19^ sees. gait.
Irene Mobel, bay mare (American bred), trotter.
3 mins. 24 sees., receiving 130 yards start. Audenshaw,
December 13, 1921. 2 mins. 23^ sees. gait.
Jenny Lind, black mare, by Collino, pacer. 3 mins.
35 sees., receiving 20 yards. Blackpool, August 2,
1909. 2 mins. 25 sees. gait. (British-bred record.)
BRITISH RECORDS 265
Two Miles.
Billy Jackson, bay gelding (American bred), pacer.
4 mins. 46 sees., receiving 35 yards in 2 miles. Auden-
shaw, February 15, 1921. 2 mins. 24! sees. gait.
Grace Greenlander, bay mare (American bred), trotter.
From scratch. Imber Court, September 10, 1906.
4 mins. 49! sees.
Five Miles.
Professor, bay gelding (American bred), pacer. From
scratch. Wigan, September 23, 1907. 12 mins. 25! sees.
Blue Bell, brown gelding (American bred), trotter.
12 mins. 33 sees., receiving 135 yards. Ashtown,
October 28, 1906. 2 mins. 33 sees. gait.
PONY RECORDS
(Under 14 hands)
Pretty Polly, bay mare (American bred), trotter,
14 hands. 2 mins. i6j sees., receiving 120 yards.
Imber Court, May u, 1908. 2 mins. 27 sees. gait.
(Pony trotting record.)
Setaba, ch. stallion by Stanley R., dam, Mabel A.,
pacer, 13-3 hands. 2 mins. 32! sees., owing 150 yards.
Audenshaw, June 27, 1916. 2 mins. 21 sees, gait.
(Pacing pony, also British-bred pony, record.)
266 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
Daisy, bay mare (American bred), pacer, 14 hands.
2 mins. 14 sees., receiving 145 yards. Aintree, Feb-
ruary 5, 1906. 2 mins. 26^ sees. gait.
Solomon, trotter, 13*2 hands. 2 mins. 36! sees.,
owing 60 yards. Imber Court, July 16, 1906. 2 mins.
3i| sees. gait. (British-bred pony stallion record.)
School Girl, mare, by Savoyard, pacer, 14 hands.
2 mins. 30! sees., owing 20 yards Parsloes Park,
July 4, 1907. 2 mins. 28| sees. gait. (British-bred
pony mare record.)
(Under 13 hands)
Half-Mile.
Jimmy B., bay gelding, pacer, 12-2 hands. I min.
23! sees., owing 80 yards. Parsloes Park, May 19, 1910.
2 mins. 33 sees. gait.
Six Furlongs.
Erin, pacer, 12 hands, i min. 431 sees., receiving
155 yards. Blackpool, August 21, 1911. 2 mins.
36^ sees. gait.
One Mile.
Little Pearl, dun mare, by Young Woodford, pacer,
13 hands. 2 mins, 22 sees., receiving 155 yards.
Carntyne Grounds, Glasgow, April 2, 1913. 2 mins.
36 sees. gait.
BRITISH RECORDS 267
Miss Air, ch. filly, by Airman, dam, Missey. 2 mins.
25 sees., receiving 220 yards in i mile. -Audenshaw,
October 10, 1921. 2 mins. 46 sees. gait. (Two-year-
old pony record.)
FLYING START RECORDS
HalJ-Mile.
Charley B., black gelding, pacer. Ain tree, April 10,
1905. i min. 5| sees. gait.
Rowley, bay gelding, trotter. Alexandra Park,
May i, 1893. i min. g sees. gait.
One Mile.
Prince Alert, bay gelding, pacer.- Aintree, June 19,
1905. 2 mins. lof sees. gait. (Exhibition record.)
Frank Dewey, bay stallion (American bred), pacer.
Audenshaw, April n, 1921. 2 mins. 13^ sees. gait.
Redhill, bay gelding, trotter (American bred).
Audenshaw, May 2, 1921. 2 mins. i8J sees. gait.
Wig Wag, brown stallion, trotter. Belhus Park,
July n, 1904. 2 mins. i8t sees. gait. (Exhibition
record.)
Butcher Boy, bay gelding, by Limestone, pacer.
Wigan, October 18, 1919. 2 mins. i6| sees. gait.
(British-bred record.)
268 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
One-and-a-Half Miles.
Miss Evelyn, black mare, pacer. Parsloes Park,
August n, 1902. 3 mins. 35! sees. gait.
Three Miles.
Grace Greenlander, bay mare, trotter Imber Court,
August 13, 1906. 7 mins. 15! sees. gait.
Four Miles.
Polly G., bay mare, trotter. Blackpool, September
n, 1899. 9 mins. 58 sees. gait.
Five Miles.
King of Pearls, pacer. Wigan, September 28, 1903.
13 mins. gait.
Ten Miles.
Sunbeam, brown mare (American bred), trotter.
Blackpool, August 18, 1913. 27 mins. 2 sees. gait.
(Exhibition.)
Twenty Miles.
Ellia McKay, trotter. Blackpool, September 4, 1899.
59 mins. 23 sees. gait. (Exhibition.)
Lady Grace, by Young Onward. Bath, 1917. 60
mins. gait.
BRITISH RECORDS 269
PONY RECORDS
(14 Hands and Under)
Half-Mile.
La Milo, bay mare, pacer, 12-3 hands. Blackpool,
July 31, 1911. i min. 17 sees. gait.
One Mile.
Little Pearl, dun mare, 13 hands, by Young Wood-
ford, dam, Moose, pacer. Wigan, December 23, 1912.
2 mins. 39! sees. gait.
PAIR-HORSE RECORDS
One Mile.
Charley B. and Bobbie Hal, pacers (American bred).
Aintree, March 28, 1904. 2 mins. 22j sees. gait.
Roy M. and Eddie L., trotters (American bred).
Parsloes Park, July 7, 1902. 2 mins. 34! sees. gait.
GUIDELESS RECORDS
Golden Princess, bay mare, pacer (American bred).
Parsloes Park, June 15, 1914. I mile, flying start.
2 mins. 9 sees. gait.
Erin, black pony mare (Iceland bred). Blackpool,
September 16, 1912. i mile flying start. 2 mins.
33f sees. gait. ,
270 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
Probably one of the best trotters in England to-day
is Mr. Hadley's Britton Forbes, imported by Mr. G.
Watson. He has twice won the Red Ribbon at Rich-
mond Horse Show, besides having a 2 mins. 19 sees,
record.
The British-bred trotter owes a great deal to the
enterprise of Mr. F. J. Ridgway, who imported the
trotting stallion George Hummer. Mr. Ridgway bred
many good trotters, including The Elf and Pop de Pinel,
Admiral Beatty's favourite show cob.
Whilst writing, I learn with much regret that Parsloes
Park is to be closed. I hope the rumour that is
afloat is correct, viz., that an American syndicate is
going to open a track at the Crystal Palace, and all
betting is to be * conducted through the Totalisator.
The scheme is excellent, and should receive much
support.
The London Trotting Club is in full progress and has
many members. The meetings are held every Monday
at Greenford Driving Park.
I wish to thank Mr. Wrightson, the editor of the
Trotting World and Horse Review, for the list of trotters'
times and records. Also Mr. Villiers Toothill, of North
Randal, U.S.A.
THE COLOUR QUESTION 271
THE COLOUR QUESTION. INDIFFERENCE OF BRITISH
BREEDERS
The importance of producing horses of the colour that
the public desire to possess is a matter that has been
much more ignored by British breeders than by those
of other countries. In England it is almost an
unknown thing to be told of experiments having been
made with the object of discovering the rules, if any,
which regulate the colour of foals ; but a good deal
appears to have been attempted in that direction
elsewhere.
Whether much has been positively learned from
such experiments as have been made beyond what was
already known is, perhaps, a little doubtful ; but that
there must be some controlling influence is certain, and
if this were to be generally known and applied the
demand for British-bred harness horses would be far
larger than it is, and the incomes of foreign breeders
would be proportionately reduced.
Rightly or wrongly, the taste of the public so far as
big harness horses is concerned is opposed to chestnuts,
and the correctness of this statement is made evident
by ocular demonstration if people will only take notice
of the colour of the expensive horses which are to be
272 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
seen in the landaus of the wealthy and the coaches of
the leading driving men. A very large proportion of
the former horses are foreign-bred, as we all know if
we have taken the trouble to enquire, though it is not
invariably easy to detect the foreign horse, for in many
instances he is practically English-bred, being a descen-
dant of the countless good animals which have left
these shores.
By selecting the colours which have earned for them-
selves the distinction of being alluded to in sale cata-
logues as "good " or " sound/' our foreign competitors
have displayed their possession of the soundest judgment,
for they are now able to supply to the wealthiest class
of British purchaser the horses which our dealers cannot
find in England in sufficient numbers to meet the demands
of the market. In plain language, we have supplied our
opponents in trade with the weapons they are now using
with considerable advantage against us.
THE COLOUR OF THE HORSE
The ignorance displayed by people with regard to
the colour of the horse is surprising. Some will call a
bay a chestnut, and a chestnut a brown ; a grey a
white ; and a roan a sort of mixture of colour.
THE COLOUR OF THE HORSE 273
The correct colours are as follows :
black, chestnut, grey,
brown, roan, white,
bay, dun, dappled.
Black Horses. Jet black, black chestnut, black
greys, black roans, black piebalds, black with white
points.
Brown Horses (these must always have tan muzzles).
Brown skewbalds, brown roans, brown chestnuts, brown
with white points, brown with black points, brown
ticked grey.
Bay (a light reddish-brown). Golden bay, blood
bay, mealy bay, bay skewbald, bay with black points,
bay with white points, bright bay, bay ticked grey.
Chestnut. Light chestnut, dark chestnut, liver-
coloured chestnut, chestnut skewbalds, chestnuts with
white points, chestnut roans, chestnut ticked grey.
Grey. Steel grey, iron grey, flea-bitten grey, blue-
grey, mealy grey, light grey with black points, silver
grey.
All white. White with grey mane and tail, white
with small, black-brown spots, flea-bitten white.
Roan. Black roan, brown roan, blue roan, bay roan,
roan chestnut, dun, dark dun, mouse colour, light dun,
silver dun, crearfi, silver creams, skewbalds.
274 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
A good horse is never a bad colour, let it be re-
membered.
THE MANAGEMENT OF FOALS
A great deal more, perhaps, than many people imagine,
depends upon the care and good judgment bestowed
upon foals, both before and after the time that they
are weaned.
The process, of course, should be a gradual one ;
indeed, in the case of mares whose owners cannot afford
to allow them to pass their lives in idleness, they have,
by force of circumstances, to separate them from their
foals at intervals. This certainly entails no harm upon
either the dam or her offspring, if the periods of separation
have not been too long, and more particularly if the mare
has not been allowed to return to her foal when she
has been in an over-heated condition. If so, there is
always a risk of her milk being in an unfit state for the
young one to consume, and hence she should always be
cooled down before she rejoins it.
In the case of mares which are not required for work,
there should always be intervals of separation between
them and their foals for some weeks before the final
parting takes place. These intervals may be gradually
extended in length, so that both the animals may
FOALS 275
become reconciled by degrees to the inevitable that is
to follow. A violent rupture of their association is
bad, as both will fret, and quite possibly the mare may
be left with a large supply of milk in her, and, if so,
trouble, in the form of inflammation, is likely to ensue.
The foal, on the other hand, if abruptly left to shift for
itself, is quite likely to lose flesh rapidly, partly by
worrying over the absence of its dam and partly by an
inability the result of total inexperience to shift for
itself.
Of course, such precautions are not necessary in the
case of the semi-wild breeds of ponies and horses which
constantly lie out on the moors and mountains of the
country. These breeds are existing in what is prac-
tically a state of nature, and a course of management
which is beneficial to more delicate breeds is quite un-
necessary for them. The mares of such varieties can
well stand the strain of having their foals running with
them until their supply of milk gradually dries up ;
and, what is more, the foals as often as not require more
nourishment than they are likely to obtain from the
land they are running on, as the keep in many parts is
very poor.
The imperative necessity that exists for keeping the
foal moving can only be effected by ensuring him the
276 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
necessary amount of nourishing food, and at proper
intervals. Many owners are of the opinion that a
supply of hay scattered about the ground is sufficient
for the well-being of any foal, and possibly it may be
so if the keep is good and the animals are not of any
considerable value. But long hay is at best an un-
satisfactory thing to use, as it gets dragged about and
trampled upon. Therefore it becomes unwholesome even
if eaten, but probably a great part of it is wasted.
In the feeding of horses, as in other matters, if a
thing is worth doing at all it is better to do it well. It
is rather a short-sighted policy to pay any amount of
attention to the best foals at the expense of their less
good-looking companions. Foals alter remarkably some-
times, and, provided that the plainer-looking ones are
as well-bred as the others, it is quite within the limits
of possibility that some of their number may develop,
with care, into quite as valuable horses. Hence the
extreme desirability of endeavouring to assist nature
by a little extra feeding.
It is not a very serious expense to provide a foal
with a reasonable amount of extra nourishment. A
few crushed oats and now and then some split beans,
boiled, or, at all events, well scalded, and mixed with
bran, is all that is required, in addition, of course, to a
FOALS 277
reasonable supply of chaff. The cost of this is, of course,
now a matter of great consideration to a horse-breeder,
particularly if he possesses a large crop of foals, but the
outlay incurred can be compensated for by the ad-
ditional value of the stock, for it very rarely happens
that horses which have been starved when young are
worth a great deal of money when grown up.
It is never safe to allow a number of foals to be
together without paying them pretty frequent visits
after they have just been weaned. They are, naturally,
mischievous, and, being left entirely to their own re-
sources, are very apt to get into trouble, and, as a con-
sequence, an accident occurs which, if attended to in
time, may leave no ill effects behind it, whereas, if
neglected, the results may be serious, if not permanent.
Hence a visit once or twice a day should be paid to
the foals.
This is doubly necessary when they are lying out
in a remote pasture, as it familiarises them with the
sight of human beings, and this is an assistance to their
breaker later on.
The more a foal is accustomed to be handled, and
the more he is allowed to see of the world, the better
his manners are likely to be in after-life, and the easier
he will be to break and make. As a rule, therefore, the
278 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
foals of the smaller breeders which are made much of
when young, and which, probably, are run out in meadows
adjacent to the house, give less trouble when being
broken than those which have been permitted to lapse
into a semi-savage state.
It is always well that a foal should be accustomed
from the first to wearing a head-collar ; so much so,
indeed, that if there is not sufficient supply of these to
go round all of the young stock, some of the latter should
wear them for a few days at a time, and then give them
up to their companions, to be returned in due course,
so that all may wear a head-collar in their turn. It is
bad enough to have to get a foal along if he has not been
accustomed to be led at the best of times, but the trouble
is increased a hundredfold if he is tormented by a head-
collar with the feel of which he is unfamiliar.
All foals should be accustomed to be handled from
almost the very first. They will, of course, resent any
familiarities of the kind, but, as a rule, they will become
accustomed to have their heads and bodies stroked,
and the lessons will be made much easier for the attendant
if he gains the confidence of his charges by giving them
a scrap of bread to eat, or some delicacy they enjoy.
When it comes to a matter of picking up the feet,
there is certain trouble ahead at first, as the foals dislike
FOALS 279
such liberties being taken with them, and behave accord-
ingly. Patience, however, conquers all things, even a
rebellious foal, and if a commencement is made by accus-
toming him to have his legs stroked he will in time, as
a rule for some horses never like having their feet
picked up consent to having his hoofs inspected.
Above all things, it must be impressed upon those
who have foals in charge that it is absolutely necessary
for them to exercise the golden gift of patience when
dealing with the young stock. More horses have been
ruined by having the devil knocked into them by a
course of harsh, if not positively brutal, treatment when
foals than people imagine, but it is a fact, all the same.
A naturally high-spirited foal becomes an evil-tempered
one, and a timid one still more nervous, by unnecessary
severity, let alone by cruelty, and hence the almost inestim-
able value of a servant who is tender, though firm, when
dealing with the young stock entrusted to his care.
Everybody who has witnessed this operation will
sympathise with all parties concerned in the shoeing of
a foal for the first time. The animal itself is scared
by the unfamiliarity of the surroundings, whilst the
farrier and the man in charge of the foal are frequently
driven almost to desperation by the resistance of the
animal.
280 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
This is a time when patience comes in again, for,
no matter how strongly the foal may object to having
his feet manipulated by a stranger, he will usual] y
resign himself to his fate in the end, if not bullied or
knocked about when he first rebels. It is, moreover,
rather a dangerous thing to attempt to secure him
against his will, as in the course of his struggles he may
seriously hurt himself, and, therefore, it is best to adopt
persuasive measures in the first instance, and these
will usually be found effective.
PICTURE HORSES. THE LATE WALTER WINANS AS A CRITIC
" At this time of year equine subjects, especially hunt-
ing scenes, are wont to be plentiful in the illustrated papers
and the Christmas-card trays, and the average quality
of the pictorial steeds is such as to bear out the tradition
that the horse is more full of difficulties for the artist
than anything else in Nature.
" It is easy to understand why this is so. A drawing
or painting of a horse has to undergo veterinary ex-
amination as well as artistic criticism. And special
knowledge does not necessarily imply technical ex-
cellence, nor artistic genius the ability to render the
characteristics which distinguish a polo pony from a
butcher's cob.
PICTURE HORSES 281
" For some mysterious reason the impossible swan-
necked creatures of the old sporting prints always find
favour with ' horsy ' men. There is a certain glamour,
too, about the work of Sartorius. But in the past no
British artist had more thoroughly mastered the con-
struction of the horse than George Morland, as those
know best who are familiar with his studies and sketches.
None has since surpassed him in depicting a raw-boned
old crock a far more difficult thing than to burnish
up the chubby beasts into whose snorting heads Landseer
used to put rolling, human eyes.
" An artist may succeed with all other animals, and
yet find the horse beyond him, as was the case with
J. M. Swan. On the other hand, Rosa Bonheur produced
the anatomical horse, of which a cast is in every artist's
studio, but the alleged horses she put on to canvas are
as much like bullocks, because she could neither draw
nor paint.
" The French galaxy of battle-painters, Meissonier,
Gericault, Aime Morot, the Vernets, and the rest, painted
the horse with almost photographic accuracy, but their
steeds have no more character or individuality than the
guns and drums and other properties in their pictures.
" The racing scenes of the mighty Degas are famous,
but it has to be confessed that his race-horses are pony-
282 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
like shapes, nearer to protohippus than to the modern
thoroughbred. They do not show the marvellous
draughtsmanship that is seen in the ballet-dancers.
" Several of the modern Spaniards have done well
with their horses, in the pictorial sense; none better
than Daniel Urrabieta (otherwise known as ' Vierge '),
the illustrator of ' Don Quixote ' and ' Pablo de Segovia, 1
and perhaps the greatest of all black-and-white artists.
"The old masters evolved their own conventional
steeds, which we could not wish different. At any
rate, the riders are sitting them." " Toplight " in Town
Topics.
.
" Carlton Hotel,
" Pall Mall, S.W. I.
" January 17, 1920.
" To the Editor of ' Trotting and Pacing.'
" SIR,
" May I point out a few errors in the article by
' Toplight/ of Town Topics, which you quoted in your
paper of January 15 ?
" George Morland could only paint underbred farm-
horses ; he never painted a blood-horse or horse with
a well-groomed coat. This is the characteristic of
almost all horse-painters and sculptors they never put
PICTURE HORSES 283
any quality into a horse ; in fact, a very celebrated
horse-sculptor told me a real horse is inartistic and unfit
for sculpture, that is why he makes his horses a cross
between a pig and an elephant !
" Landseer, far from making a horse with human
eyes, painted the horse's eye very lifelike.
" Rosa Bonheur painted the Percheron horse very
well. It is ridiculous to say she could neither draw nor
paint. Her ' Horse Fair ' is the best horse picture
ever painted. She did not model the anatomical horse
that was by her brother, Isidore Bonheur a caricature
of which is the ' Physical Energy/ by Watts, put up
in Kensington Gardens and also on Cecil Rhodes' tomb.
" Your readers should look at this when they are
passing the west end of Kensington Gardens. The
sculptor, out of excessive modesty, has left out the
main characteristic of a stallion (which the Isidore Bon-
heur statue he tried to imitate is), and made it into an
impossible thing a ' mare-stallion/ with club feet
and a broken back, ridden by a drunken man.
"Meissonier, far from making 'property horses/ as
' Toplight ' says, painted accurate portraits of his troop
horses and made them actually walking, trotting or
galloping, as the modern instantaneous photographs
show ; in fact, he was the only man who did the walk
284 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
properly except (excuse my mentioning it) myself in
my drawing when I was a boy, and for which my drawing-
masters corrected (?) me.
" The best artist by far for a trotting horse was Maurer,
who drew the coloured prints of ' Mac/ ' Tacony/
'Hero/ 'Flora Temple/ etc., and the many trotting-
horse groups: one, called ' The Road Hog/ of a farm
cart blocking the road, of some men having a brush
on the road/'
"The best modern artist of a trotter is Dickey, who
draws for the Horse Review of Chicago.
" No artist makes the men sit their horses like the
French artists who have been in the cavalry. Most
artists sit a man who has never ridden on a live horse
on a wooden dummy and copy him, and as they have
never handled a horse themselves you can imagine the
result.
" Herring (the elder) put any amount of quality into
a horse ; in fact, he, when he painted a cart-horse, made
him look like a magnificent thoroughbred. He painted
the shine on a horse's coat better than anyone has ever
succeeded in doing. I spent years in trying to paint
a coat like he did, and his horses, in spite of a little
exaggeration in smallness of head, small hoofs, etc.,
are the best horses ever painted, but he was entirely
PICTURE HORSES 285
conventional in action, except the only trotting-horse
in action I ever saw of his, and that was one of a bay
horse called Nonpareil, at speed which is almost as good
in action as Maurer's horses. It used to be on exhibition
in Jermyn Street, at the art shop in the corner. The
horse looks like a Morgan and, I am sure, was not English
bred.
"The Russian artist, Schvetskoff, was a very good
painter of trotters in action, next best to Maurer. I
have an engraving, at present stored where I cannot
unpack it for the moment, of the Emperor Alexander I.
behind a black Orloff stallion, going at a 2 mins. 40 sees,
gait. All the Emperors of Russia were keen about trotting,
and used single and pairs fit to trot at Parsloes Park, which
is more than can be said of Lenin and Trotsky, who have
killed good horses because they are ' bourgeois/
" I hear that Krepitz, the first Orloff to trot in 2 mins.
9 sees., is the last victim to be killed by these devils.
"WALTER WINANS."
It has given me great pleasure to write this book amidst
my everyday practical work. A treatise written under
these conditions should prove more interesting. When
a man is actually demonstrating and proving his theories
in practice he possesst j more profound knowledge than
286 HUMANE HORSE-TRAINING
in the sunset of his days, at which time he is apt to
exaggerate and distort the real facts.
I should be pleased to demonstrate these methods to
any reader who is sufficiently interested, and I hope that
the publication of this book will lead to many appoint-
ments for the purpose of enabling me to satisfy the
sceptical.
Let me say in conclusion, it is my firm conviction
that patient understanding, personality and intelligent
kindness are the real factors in any kind of effective
animal training. Animals possess a special kind of
mind and, of course, a unique kind of consciousness
which is no less human, in degree, than our own. It
is only by the careful study and perception of this par-
ticular kind of mind that we can hope to get the best
out of our dumb friends. It is for the benefit of the
horse-owner who, through ignorance and stupidity, resorts
to cruelty that I have written this book. There is a
better, more humane, and certainly a much more profitable
method than barbaric cruelty which is, after all, a
poor index of our superior mentalities. It is to be hoped
that the rising generation, both of men and of horses,
will be ignorant of cruelty in any degree ; that inhumane
methods are obsolete there can be no possible doubt
and I have done my best to prove it.
PICTURE HORSES 287
" The wolf and the lamb shall feed together, and
the lion shall eat straw like the bullock : and dust shall
be the serpent's meat. They shall not hurt nor destroy
in all My holy mountain, saith the Lord/' ISAIAH Ixv. 25.
P. F. T.
THE END
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