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Full text of "I G Y The Year Of The New Moons"

131 458 



ALSO BY 



JL TUZO WILSON 



ONE CHINESE MOON 



With J. A. Jacobs and R. D. Russell: 

PHYSICS AND GEOLOGY 

(i959) 



G*Y 



THE YEAR OF 
THE NEW MOONS 





THE YEAR OF 
THE NEW MOONS 



3. TUZO WILSON 



FOREWORD BY LLOYD V. BERKNER 




6 i 



ALFRED-A-KNOPF 



NEW YORK 



L. C. catalog card number: 61-14195 



THIS IS A BORZOI BOOK, 
PUBLISHED BY ALFRED A. KNOPF, INC. 



Copyright 1961 by J, Tuzo Wilson. 
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be repro- 
duced in any form without permission in writing from 
the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief 
passages and reproduce not more than three illustrations 
in a review to "be printed in a magazine 
or newspaper. Manufactured in the 
United States of America. 



FIRST EDITION 



T O 



Pat and Sue 



FOREWORD 



The International Geophysical Year (IGY) was perhaps the 
most ambitious and at the same time the most successful co- 
operative enterprise ever undertaken by man. The IGY was a 
scientific year. It was a year when men of sixty-seven nations 
agreed to observe the earth over its whole surface, simulta- 
neously, and with precise instruments designed to the same 
standards so that the changing phenomena enveloping the 
earth could be caught and described in their full global sense. 

In IGY; The Year of the New Moons, Professor J. Tuzo 
Wilson describes the characteristics of the earth that were 
observed during the IGY the elements of our surroundings 
that give us our ever-changing environment. But more than 
that, he tells at first hand of the people in distant and varied 
lands who worked together to make the IGY the great scien- 
tific success that it was. Sitting together with me nearly two 
years ago on an antarctic plane jammed with men and gear, 
Professor Wilson outlined his plans to fuse the scientific and 
the human aspects of the IGY in the present volume. 

Professor Wilson was president of the International Union 
of Geodesy and Geophysics (IUGG) during the IGY. This 



FOREWORD 

important union of scientists carried a major responsibility 
for the adequate functioning of the complex system of obser- 
vations of the "y ear -" The IUGG had joined with TUnion 
Radio Scientifique Internationale (URSI), the International 
Astronomical Union (IAU), and the International Geo- 
graphical Union (IGU) to organize the IGY through the 
Comite Special de TAnn<6e Geophysique Internationale 
(CSAGI) under the parent body of all international unions, 
the International Council of Scientific Unions (ICSU). 
Acting outside the usual political and diplomatic framework 
of nations, the IGY was planned and executed by scientists 
working in close collaboration, with immense assistance from 
their countries. The job took eight years to accomplish, and 
our comprehension of our environment is still undergoing 
major changes as a consequence. 

During the planning and execution of the IGY, Jock Wil- 
son travelled to every corner of the earth. With great wisdom, 
the Government of Canada and the University of Toronto 
provided the time and support that enabled him to oversee 
the IGY on behalf of the IUGG. As a leading world scientist, 
Jock Wilson brings the perspective of the impartial, keen 
observer of events around him, acting without reference to 
his personal comfort or safety when there is a job to be done 
or a significant observation to be made. As a Canadian, he is 
naturally an authority on the polar regions. And as a geo- 
physicist, he counts the whole world as his realm. Those who 
have read One Chinese Moon, in which he tells of his travels 
in the People's Republic of China, will have seen the pene- 
trating insight, broad perspective, and dry humour with 
which he deals with one of the world's most troubled areas. 

In 1958 during scientific meetings at the National Academy 
of Sciences I conferred briefly with Wilson and invited him 
to join an IGY party of scientists going to the Antarctic for 
several weeks late that year. Obviously, Wilson could make a 



FOREWORD ix 

definite contribution to the assessment of the difficult scien- 
tific work being carried on in that remote "seventh conti- 
nent/' His response was unhesitating; at the expense of other 
plans, he joined us in our studies, crisscrossing the continent 
for many thousands of miles between isolated bases and field 
parties. When an observer was needed for a hazardous recon- 
naissance with a single-engined plane into little-explored 
areas, Jock was in the party. When a heated scientific discus- 
sion went on in some antarctic hut during a blizzard, he was 
in the thick of it, tapping a deep store of scientific knowledge. 
Jock Wilson was always present on a steep climb or a long 
hike that might continue right through the night; and always 
he was a delightful companion, with an apt anecdote for any 
situation. Wilson's cold scientific judgment is agreeably 
tempered by a spontaneous and exciting love of adventure. 

It has been said that rule of law among nations will not be 
achieved until men are bound together by common threads 
of cultural understanding. Certainly science is one of those 
threads perhaps a major line that permits men to speak to 
one another with comprehension, confidence, and common 
purpose. Coming in times of international tension, the IGY 
was a clear demonstration of the power of such cultural 
bonds. In this book Professor Wilson has captured the sense 
of desire of all peoples, within the universal scientific culture, 
to labor for the benefit of all. 

LLOYT> V. BERKNER 

Retiring President, 

International Council 

of Scientific Unions 



PREFACE 



To most people the IGY was little more than a set of initials 
vaguely associated with a branch of scientific activity that 
finally was made manifest in the Sputnik. Although it ab- 
sorbed the imagination and energies of thousands of the 
world's scientists for eighteen months, to the general public 
the purpose of the International Geophysical Year was not 
nearly as clear as the delighted realization that scientists either 
could not count or did not know how many months there are 
in a year. 

In these days when advances in scientific knowledge affect 
every facet of our lives, it is important that we all know as 
much about science as we can. It was my good fortune, during 
the IGY, to have unrivalled opportunities to travel the world 
and to meet the men working on IGY projects. This book 
combines a record of these journeys with an account of the 
scientific programs. This strange mixture is deliberate. I hope 
that the parts devoted to travel will bring home to the reader 
how truly international is science, and show that scientists 
are as much interested in other aspects of human affairs as 
anyone else. I also hope that my observations as a scientist 



Xll 



PREFACE 



abroad will provide a series of park benches on which the 
reader may rest and draw breath before resuming his way 
along the unfamiliar paths of science. Such alternations of 
work and interruptions are the normal pattern of life of sci- 
entists. 

For providing opportunities to undertake these travels and 
for making them possible, I am particularly indebted to the 
University of Colorado; The Romanian Institute of Cultural 
Relations with Foreign Countries; the Association of Cana- 
dian Clubs; the International Union of Geodesy and Geo- 
physics; the Society of Sigma Xi; the Defense Research Board 
of Canada; the National Research Council of Canada; the 
Academy of Sciences and the Ministry of Geology of the 
USSR; the Academia Sinica, Peking; the Academia Sinica, 
Taipeh; the University of Tokyo; the Japanese Broadcasting 
Corporation; the National Academy of Sciences of the United 
States; the New Zealand Department of Scientific and In- 
dustrial Research; and the University of Toronto. I should 
like to thank the many people who received me so hospitably 
during these trips and who answered so many of my questions. 

To Dr. Lloyd V. Berkner I am doubly indebted both for 
being my host and mentor on a trip to Antarctica, which he 
has studied for thirty years, and for his generous Foreword. 

For supplementary information I wrote to the secretaries of 
national committees for the IGY and many other individuals 
in the sixty-seven participating countries, and received valu- 
able replies and photographs. I only regret that I have not been 
able to use all the material so liberally provided. The files of 
popular and scientific journals also made available important 
information. I should like to express my thanks to all these 
generous collaborators. I am particularly grateful to Mr. Hugh 
Odishaw and Mr. Pembroke J. Hart of World Data Centre 
A, to Professor V. V. Beloussov and Mme V. A. Troitskaya 
of World Data Centre B, and to members of the Canadian 



PREFACE xiii 

committee on the IGY for help in assembling information 
and photographs. I should also like to pay tribute to Ing. Gen. 
Georges Laclav&re of Paris, secretary of the IUGG, for the 
enormous load of work he has carried (in addition to his nor- 
mal job) and for the sound advice, inspiration, and assistance 
he has so often given me. 

When a draft of the book had been completed, I sent one 
or more chapters to specialists for criticism and comments. 
For their help I am grateful to Doctors G. Hattersley-Smith 
J. F. Heard, C. O. Hines, P. M. Millman, D. A. MacRae, J. A. 
O'Keefe, F. Press, D. C. Rose, A. H. Shapley, P. H. Serson, 
J. P. Tully, and H. Wexler. Needless to say, they are not to 
be held responsible for what is here said. 

I am particularly indebted to Miss Helen O'Reilly and Mr. 
Henry Robbins for editorial comment, and to Professor 
W. H. Watson, Doctors M. G. Rochester and T. O. Jones, 
and Mr. R. Roden for technical comments on drafts of the 
whole book. 

Mrs. Sylvia Derenyi, Miss Sylvia Lummis, and Mrs. Nancy 
Thoman typed the manuscript, and Mrs. Thoman also pre- 
pared the index. Mr. Alex Aiken is the artist responsible for 
all the drawings. 

To all these people I extend my most grateful thanks. 
Without their help the book would not have covered as large 
a range or been as accurate. 

Above all, I am indebted to my wife, Isabel, for editing the 
text and for ameliorating much that was difficult or dull. 

J. T. W. 



CONTENTS 



1 The International Geophysical Year 3 

2 Colorado, July 1957 14 

3 - The Sun 19 

4 Geophysical Jamboree, AugustSeptember 1957 34 

5 * Romania, October 1957 40 

6 T7i0 New Moons 54 

7 What the Satellites Revealed 77 

8 Cosmic Rays 88 

9 TTze North Magnetic Pole, June 1958 103 

10 - The Earth's Magnetic Field no 

11 - The Upper Atmosphere 119 

12 Aurora 131 

13 - Landfalls in a Frozen Sea, June 1958 145 



xvi CONTENTS 

14 - Greenland and the 'World's Ice, June 1958 154 

15 Brussels to Moscow, July 1958 170 

16 - Gravity and the Earth's 'Wobble 179 

17 The Soviet Union, August 1958 191 

18 Earthquakes 214 

19 China, Taiwan, and Japan, September 1958 227 

20 The Oceans 244 

21 Hawaii and New Zealand, November 1958 265 

22 Fall-out 276 

23 Antarctica, November 1958 288 

24 The Weather 310 

25 - The Year's Harvest 320 

TABLES 333 

REFERENCES FOR FURTHER READING 347 
INDEX follows page 3 50 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



The world of the International Geophysical Year 11 

Spectrum of sound waves 22 

Electro-magnetic spectrum 24. 

Major solar activity 28 

Temperature variation and sun-spot activity 30 

The far side of the moon 74 

The earth and the inner and outer Van Allen belts 78 

High-speed electrons in the Van Allen and Argus belts 79 

Fundamental particles and simple atoms 90 

Collision of cosmic-ray particle with a nucleus 93 

Shower of secondary cosmic rays 95 

The earth 9 s magnetic field 98 

Cross-section of our galaxy 99 

Map of part of the Canadian Arctic 106 

Cross-section of the earth's interior 1 1 1 

The sun's toroidal fields 115 

Variation in the earth's magnetic field 117 

Phenomena in nearby space 120 

The ionospheric sounder 122 

Reflection of radio signals by layers of the atmosphere 124 

Distribution of aurora borealis 132 



XV111 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Distribution of aurora australis 134 

A corpuscular stream 136 

A corpuscular stream passing the earth 138 

Distribution and frequency of auroral displays 141 

Map of Arctic Sea 148 

The ice surface of Greenland 156 

The ice surface of Antarctica 163 

Bedrock of Antarctica below the ice sheet 165 

Variations in the strength of gravity in the Baltic Sea 182 

The continental fracture system 221 
Cross-section of the earth 9 s crust and the upper part of 

the mantle 223 

Profile across the mid-ocean ridge 247 
Vertical section through the Atlantic Ocean from pole 

to pole 256 

Diagram of deep circulation in the ocean basins 259 

Position of the Antarctic Convergence 262 

Cross-section of part of the Pacific Ocean 269 

Changes in carbon-i4 in New Zealand 279 

Strontium-go in the atmosphere 282 

Strontium-go activity in rainfall 284 

Structure of upper atmosphere as revealed by fall-out 285 

IGY stations in Antarctica 294 

Storms on the Antarctic continent in 1958 308 

Atmospheric circulation ^ X r 

Jet-streams in the northern hemisphere ^6 

Cross-section through a front and a jet-stream 317 



PLATES 



FOLLOWING PAGE 

Sun-spots (Mount "Wilson and Mount Palomar Ob- 
servatories} 40 
Sun-spots (detail) (Princeton University Observatory) 40 
Solar telescope in Moscow (U.S.S.R. IGY) 40 
Coronagraph and spectrograph (National Academy of 

Sciences IGY) 40 

Solar flare 40 
Balloon, parachute, and mounted instrument package 

(U.S. Navy) 40 
Rocket firing during eclipse (U. S. Navy) 40 
Test firing of Vanguard II (U. S. Navy) 40 
Vanguard satellite being installed (U. S. Navy) 40 
Explorer VII before launching (U. S. Army) 40 
Lunar Probe III ( U. S. Air Force ) 40 
Soviet research rocket (U.S.S.R. IGY) 40 
Sputnik III ( U.S.S.R. IG Y ) 40 
Aerobee rocket (U. S. Army) 40 
Far side of the moon (U.S.S.R. Information Service) 136 
Crab nebula (Mount Wilson and Mount Palomar Ob- 
servatories) 136 



xx PLATES 

Greek Moonwatch (Greek IGY) 136 
Indiana Moonwatch team (Smithsonian Astrophysical 

Observatory) 136 
Solar radio telescope, Australia (W. N. Christiansen, 
Radiophysics Laboratory C.S.R.I.O., Sidney, 

Australia) 136 
Baker-Nunn-Schmidt Camera, Australia (Australian 

Weapons Research Establishment) 136 
Jodrell Bank telescope (United Kingdom Information 

Service) 136 
The all-sky camera (National Research Council of 

Canada) 136 
Aurora photo with all-sky camera (National Research 

Council of Canada) 136 
Auroral forms in Alaska (/. W. Wright) 136 
lonization counter for cosmic rays (U.S.S.R. IGY) 136 
Cosmic-ray star caused by collision with nucleus (Na- 
tional Research Council of Canada) 136 
Weather balloon (U. S. IGY) 136 
Spectrophotometer measuring ozone (U. S. IGY) 136 
Czech earth-tides equipment (Csav Geofysikalniustav) 232 
Royal Thai observer in field (Thai IGY) 232 
Soviet seismograph (U.S.S.R. IGY) 232 
Mount Vesuvius (American Museum of Natural His- 

tory) 232 

Lloyd V. Berkner 232 

Young Soviet scientist (U.S.S.R. IGY) 232 

Chapman and Bardin ( U.S.S.R. IG Y ) 232 
Author and Soviet scientists (Photograph by Chief 

Engineer Nicolas Fonfaev ) 232 
Soviet drifting station (University of Washington) 232 
Ice-coring on Blue Glacier, Olympic Mountains (Uni- 
versity of Washington) 232 
Henrietta glacier (Royal Canadian Air Force) 232 
Valley glaciers on Ellesmere Island (Royal Canadian 

Air Force) 232 



PLATES 



xxi 



Ship in spring ice ( Canadian 'Department of Transport ) 232 

Under-ice living quarters (U. S. Army) 232 

Stratigraphy of crevasse walls (U, S. National Academy 

of Science) 232 

Drilling in Antarctic ice (U. S. Navy) 328 

Ice cave in Antarctic (U. S. Navy) 328 

Hummocky sea ice ( U. S. National Academy of Sciences 

IGY) 328 

Little America V ( U. S. Navy) 328 

Snow-covered facilities at "Little America (17. S. Navy) 328 

Annual layers in ice cliffs (Australian National Antarc- 
tic Research Expedition) 328 
Sno-Gats at Ellsworth Station (17. S. National Acad- 
emy of Sciences IGY) 328 
Soviet tractor train ( U.S.S.R. IGY) 328 
Lowering coring apparatus from the Vema (Lamont 

Geological Observatory, Columbia University) 328 

Lowering Nansen bottle to collect water samples (U. S. 

IGY) 328 

Recovering Soviet double coring tube (U.S.S.R. 

IGY) 

Soviet oceanographic research ship, Vityaz (U.S.S.R. 
IGY) 



TABLES 



1 Countries which participated in the IGY 333 

2 Bureau of the Comite Special de VAnnee 

Geophysique Internationale 334 

3 IGY subjects and their reporters 334 

4 Members of GSAGI 335 

5 Record of artificial satellites and space probes 

launched in 1957-1958 335 

6 Record of artificial satellites and planets 

launched in 1959 336 

7 Record of artificial satellites placed in orbit 

January i, 1960, to April 12, 1961 337 

8 Features of Sputnik satellites 338 

9 - Features of Vanguard satellites 339 

10 - Features of Explorer and Score satellites 340 

11 Features of Pioneer space probes and planet 341 

12 Features of Discoverer satellites 342 

13 Features of Lunik space probes and satellites 343 

14 Times and places of Argus experiments 343 

15 Radioactive isotopes created by cosmic-ray 

bombardment of the atmosphere 344 

16 True direction of magnetic compass at London 344 

17 Changes in the strength of the earth's magnetic 

field 345 

18 IGY stations in the Antarctic 345 

19 Some of the world's record cold temperatures 346 



G^V" 
1 



THE YEAR OF 
THE NEW MOONS 



CHAPTER I 



THE INTERNATIONAL 
GEOPHYSICAL YEAR 



JUNE 1957 

On the evening of June 30, 1957, I sat on the darkening 
veranda of our summer cottage on the Georgian Bay of Lake 
Huron, waiting for midnight and the opening of the Interna- 
tional Geophysical Year. There in the wilds I had no measure- 
ments to make, and I knew that nothing would mark the 
event; but it was exciting to contemplate what the next eight- 
een months would bring. 

A night breeze stirred through the pines; ripples lapped 
against the bare rock shore and bumped a boat against the 
dock. Mosquitoes shrilled on the screening. From far on the 
other side of the bay came the drone of an outboard motor and 
from the rocks behind the kitchen the clang and scrape of a 
metal plate as the children's pet racoon deliberated over her 
dinner. 

Above the low rocky coast; the Milky Way foamed down the 
seas of heaven like scud marking the set moon's wake, and a 
thousand stars twinkled as buoys to chart its passage. Their 



4 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

brilliance against the blackness of the night is a light to com- 
fort us in darkness, and marks the shores of man's vision of 
paradise. In all religions and mythologies the seat of the Al- 
mighty and the homes of the blessed have been placed in the 
unfathomed depths of space. 

The mysteries of the heavens were enough to achieve this 
veneration when the firmament was considered to be just an 
illuminated back-drop to the solar system; by how much 
should our wonder and awe have grown now that we appre- 
ciate how vastly more immense and grand the universe is! 
Until the time of Kepler, man believed that the sun rose and 
set for him; he regarded the heavens as a spectacle mounted for 
his delectation; and he considered any startling event a mira- 
cle. Today we see ourselves as dust in a galaxy of greater size 
and intricacy than anyone could have dared imagine had it not 
been revealed by careful observation and precise logic. No 
longer is our admiration for the beauty of night limited to the 
few thousand stars that the best eye can see. In our imagina- 
tion we can now visualize the Milky Way as a hundred billion 
suns, each like our own, and all of them forming but a single 
galaxy, just one spiral nebula, among uncounted and un- 
countable clusters of other similar galaxies stretching in or- 
dered myriads beyond the farthest reach of telescopes. 

By any material measure, we are of far less consequence 
than a speck of dust in a house. From a small room with an 
earth and a sun and a thousand stars painted on the walls, our 
universe has expanded into a city of indescribable elegance, 
vastness, and regularity in which our galaxy, our sun, our 
earth, and ourselves occupy a humble place. 

Our progress in science has not succeeded in giving us a 
complete understanding of this universe, nor is it likely ever to 
do so, but by disclosing to us so much more than was at first 
obvious it has served to put our ignorance and insignificance 
into perspective. If our discoveries have shown us how small 



INTERNATIONAL GEOPHYSICAL YEAR 5 

is our understanding and how limited our comprehension, they 
have also, by revealing the regularity and pattern of the uni- 
verse, made us aware that through systematic study we can 
follow most closely the path of creation and see the steps by 
which the unseen Creator trod. 

Just as study has demonstrated that in addition to being 
larger the universe is also more regular than had been thought, 
so do other investigations uncover hidden meaning in the 
nature of all matter, energy, and life. Everywhere in science 
modern tools and ideas bring to light the elegant and orderly 
skeins by which nature builds the glory that we see about us, 
knit in regular patterns from simple stitches. Her apparently 
infinite materials are made of only a few million chemicals. 
These are not unrelated substances, but the compounds of 
one hundred and three elements. Even the elements are not 
distinct; each consists of electrons, protons, neutrons, and 
energy arranged in a special pattern. The colours that we see in 
such a myriad of shades are but electro-magnetic vibrations of 
varying wave-lengths. Indeed, we may think of all nature in 
terms of music, as infinitely ingenious and elaborate variations 
on a few simple themes. 

It is plain that creation was not haphazard, but orderly. The 
way to understand creation better is, therefore, to follow the 
pattern it has set, which clearly is the road of intellect. It might 
seem presumptuous to suggest that in science man has found 
the way to map the path of the Creator, and conceited to claim 
that man by mathematical logic has solved a few riddles of the 
universe, thereby achieving a modicum of control over its 
functions. The scientist, however, is saved from the sin of 
Lucifer by an ever-increasing awe which holds his self-conceit 
in check. If science has given unexpected power to man, it has 
to an even greater extent revealed the unimagined glory of God. 

Man was endowed with intellect as well as feeling, and it 
behoves him to use his intellect to govern himself and his 



6 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

environment. The International Geophysical Year was con- 
ceived as the greatest attempt men have yet made to band 
together to examine, without passion or undue rivalry, their 
environment, their home and ultimate resource, the earth. 

Men, it is true, have studied the earth for thousands of years 
and have discovered much more about it than about the un- 
seen universe around us, but these studies have been local 
efforts, each limited to a particular ocean, mountain peak, or 
storm, or to a single aspect of the earth its rocks, its magnet- 
ism, or its atmosphere. The International Geophysical Year 
was to be different, not because it would be bigger, though it 
had to be, but because it would be an attempt to be all- 
embracing, to fit the earth into the pattern of the universe, to 
relate its parts together, to discover hidden order, and to 
interpret the whole in relation to space, and especially, to that 
greatest influence in nearby space, the sun. 

This far-flung and happy enterprise had not sprung into 
being unannounced; it was the child of two sets of parents. 
On the one hand it was a direct descendant of the First and 
Second International Polar Years of 1882-3 an d 1 93 2 ~3; ai *d 
on the other hand it was an offspring of the international 
scientific unions, the dozen bodies through which world scien- 
tists have been meeting regularly since 1919. So great and 
successful an operation could not have been conceived, let 
alone smoothly executed, without the experience thus be- 
queathed to it. 

The First International Polar Year (IPY i ) was proposed by 
Lieutenant Carl Weyprecht of Austria and organized in 1879 
at a meeting of the International Meteorological Congress. A 
committee under the chairmanship of G. Newmayer of Ham- 
burg and later H. Wild of St. Petersburg laid plans, established 
rules for taking observations, fixed the duration of IPY i to be 
from August i, 1882, to September i, 1883, and later published 
the results. Eleven nations sent expeditions to twelve bases 



INTERNATIONAL GEOPHYSICAL YEAR 7 

around the Arctic and to two others in the Southern Ocean. 

The conditions prevailing then were less than ideal. So little 
was known of the polar regions that not all the bases were 
well sited; for instance, the two antarctic stations in South 
Georgia and Cape Horn were far removed from the south 
magnetic pole, which they had been particularly established to 
investigate. Arrangements for pairs of stations to photograph 
the aurora were made under the supposition that it appears at 
a height of 5 miles, but the results were poor because the 
aurora was discovered always to form above a height of 60 
miles. Some parties were ill-equipped for the rigors they had to 
face. There was no radio by which to communicate or provide 
time signals. Only the French party used cameras to photo- 
graph automatically the readings on their instruments. 

In spite of these handicaps, the achievements were great. 
The first clear ideas of the distribution of the aurora borealis 
and of polar weather were obtained. Fortunately, the consider- 
able sun-spot activity during this period was accompanied by 
the two greatest magnetic storms ever recorded in high lati- 
tudes. The observations of these storms proved their value 
forty years later in 1926 when Sydney Chapman, in developing 
his hypothesis that currents flow in the upper atmosphere, 
used these records to calculate the strength and location of the 
currents. In 1882 the southern stations observed a transit of 
Venus across the face of the sun, and many stations recorded 
the effects of the volcanic eruption of Krakatoa in 1883 large 
tidal waves and atmospheric disturbances that travelled twice 
around the earth. The results were published in a shelf-full of 
quarto volumes. 

Interest in international co-operation in polar exploration 
then subsided for forty-five years, but revived in time for 
scientists to plan a Second Polar Year (IPY 2) to celebrate the 
golden jubilee of the first. The International Union of 
Geodesy and Geophysics, which had been formed in 1919, 



8 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

played a major role in organizing and financing IPY 2. In 
particular, it arranged for the publication of a Photographic 
Atlas of Auroral Forms to guide observers, provided many 
instruments, and financed to a large extent the publication of 
results. 

The IPY 2 was conducted in the same way as the IPY i. 
Again the greatest efforts were devoted to the study of meteor- 
ology, magnetism, and aurora in the Arctic, but more countries 
and more branches of science were included. The original 
resolutions were distributed in eight languages, and eventually 
forty-four countries agreed to participate, although only half 
of them organized expeditions. 

The IPY 2 was handicapped by being held during a period 
of minimum sun-spot activity and in the midst of a great 
economic depression. It is doubtful whether it could have been 
successful without the great efforts of its president, D. la Cour 
of Denmark, and the financial support which he persuaded the 
Rockefeller Foundation to provide. 

Unlike its predecessor, however, the IPY 2 generated an 
interest that continued over the years, and many of the 
younger men who took part in it played important roles in the 
IGY. One of them, J, Bartels, has said: 'IPY 2 was like 
chamber music compared to the symphony of the present 
IGY." To extend the metaphor, IPY i might be likened to 
several soloists, each playing the same tune independently. 
Nevertheless, each attempt provided both tangible results and 
the experience upon which the next effort could be built. 

The second parents of the IGY were the dozen scientific 
unions which had been formally organized in 1919. Each 
union deals with one branch of science and enables scientists 
from all over the world to meet together regularly. The unions 
particularly concerned with the IGY were the International 
Union of Geodesy and Geophysics (IUGG); the Interna- 
tional Astronomical Union (IAU); TUnion Radio Scientifi- 



INTERNATIONAL GEOPHYSICAL YEAR 9 

que Internationale (URSI); the International Geographical 
Union (IGU); and the International Union of Pure and Ap- 
plied Physics (I UP AP) . 

These unions provided the forums at which the initial plans 
were discussed, and the International Council of Scientific 
Unions (an administrative body comprising the chief officers 
of the unions) co-ordinated their efforts and established the 
Comit6 Special de TAnn6e G6ophysique Internationale 
( CSAGI ) to run the project. 

The infant protege was conceived at a dinner party on the 
evening of April 5, 1950. J. A. Van Allen, after whom the Van 
Allen belts in space have since been named, had invited half a 
dozen friends to his home in a suburb of Washington to meet 
Sydney Chapman, the well-known English geophysicist, who 
was in the process of moving the chief scene of his activities 
from the University of Oxford to the United States. This re- 
markable man, who was to become the president of the 
CSAGI, is an indefatigable traveller and a firm believer in 
strenuous physical exercise. His hosts have often been hard 
put to find a convenient swimming pool for his accustomed 
swim at 7 o'clock each morning. A typical story told of him 
concerns two consecutive meetings held in 1939. He had at- 
tended the first in Chicago, and when he did not immediately 
turn up at the second in Washington, someone inquired: 
"Where's Sydney Chapman?" Those who knew him replied: 
"Just give him time, and he'll be along; you know, it takes three 
or four days to bicycle from Chicago to Washington!" 

All the men who met that evening to do him honour had 
taken part in the IPY 2 and were destined to be leaders of the 
IGY. During the evening Lloyd V. Berkner proposed that 
instead of waiting for the traditional fifty years, they hold the 
third Polar Year on the silver anniversary of the second. He 
pointed out that the exigencies of war had developed over- 
snow vehicles and air-support techniques which would enable 



10 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

scientists to study the Antarctic, that electronic instruments 
had been infinitely improved during the past twenty-five years, 
that 1957-8 would be a year of sun-spot maximum, and the 
most persuasive argument of all that if they were to wait a 
full fifty years for the International Polar Year 3, very few of 
those present would be in fit shape to enjoy it. 

By October 1951, CSAGI had been established and the 
planning for this momentous scientific endeavour begun. Be- 
cause its scope was to be so much greater than that of its 
predecessors, it was christened the International Geophysical 
Year rather than the International Polar Year 3. 

Altogether no less than sixty-seven countries had agreed to 
participate, and their national committees were represented 
on CSAGI, but the main burden was carried by a small bureau 
and by the reporters who were appointed to co-ordinate the 
efforts of each of the fourteen scientific programs. Their names 
and those of the participating countries are given at the end of 
this book. 

In a series of meetings, both of CSAGI as a whole and of 
smaller groups, suggestions were thrashed out. The reporters 
for the programs indicated what observations they felt were 
required; representatives of the various countries tried to ob- 
tain support for these programs and in many cases made 
counter-proposals. After a number of exchanges, unified plans 
were formulated to make the best use of available resources. 

It was soon realized that even with the considerable support 
which was forthcoming the whole world could not be covered 
with equal intensity. Efforts were concentrated, therefore, in 
the polar regions, in the equatorial zone, and along several 
belts joining pole to pole, one through Europe and Africa, an- 
other through the Americas, and a third through east Asia and 
Australia. To concentrate activities further, certain days were 
appointed for special efforts that could not be carried on all the 
time. On such days rockets would be fired simultaneously and 




The World of the International Geophysical Year. Countries in black 
did not participate in the IGY. Heavy lines show the paths of totality 
of solar eclipses during the IGY (1957-8) and IGC (1959)- Broken 
lines show the author's travels during that time. 



12 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

additional upper-air balloons would be sent aloft. Some of 
these "world days" were fixed in advance, but plans were 
sufficiently flexible so that all resources could be focused at 
short notice on the study of an unexpected scientific event 
for instance, a large outburst on the sun. 

To facilitate the reduction of results, uniform instructions 
were prepared, and a whole series of annals published to pro- 
mulgate them. 

Finally, it was agreed that all data obtained in the program 
were to be freely circulated. Three World Data Centres were 
established: A in Washington, B in Moscow, and C divided 
among several European cities. Every country sent observa- 
tions to at least one World Data Centre, which then was 
charged with distributing them to the others. 

The first year of the planned eighteen-month period was so 
successful that the Soviet Union proposed in August 1958 that 
the work be continued through 1959. A reduced effort was 
agreed upon and called the International Geophysical Co- 
operation (IGC, 1959). 

When the projects were ended, CSAGI was dissolved and 
the members thanked for their invaluable efforts on behalf of 
science and of mankind. Those activities which could be han- 
dled by the unions were once more entrusted to them. The 
Comit6 Internationale Geophysique (GIG) was formed, with 
the same indefatigable secretary as the IUGG, Georges La 
clav^re, to wind up the IGY and get its results published, and 
to continue reduced programs of international co-operation. 
In three regions nearby space, the oceans, and Antarctica 
research had been initiated on so broad a scale that special 
committees were organized to continue administrative ar- 
rangements. 

It is my hope that in this book the reader may learn some- 
thing of the important discoveries made during the IGY and 



INTERNATIONAL GEOPHYSICAL YEAR 13 

IGC and that he will be able to share the excitement of the 
scientists who were fortunate enough to have engaged in this 
exploration of the earth. Perhaps with them he will feel mo- 
mentarily lifted above the earth and see the whole world in 
perspective. By launching satellites into outer space, the IGY 
has disclosed the immensity of the vast and hostile space that 
surrounds our world; perhaps in the face of this immensity he 
may discover the essential unity of all mankind. 



CHAPTER 2 



COLORADO 



JULY 195? 

On July i I had to leave the tranquillity of Georgian Bay to 
fly to the University of Colorado to hold a series of seminars in 
physics and geology for summer-school students, and give a 
public lecture. In July 1957 public lectures on the International 
Geophysical Year were very fashionable. 

I flew over the great American plains to Denver. The im- 
mensity and fertility of that checkerboard of fields which con- 
stitutes the North American prairies always amazes me. Flying 
west, whether to Edmonton or to Texas, one passes for hours 
over plains laid out in one-mile squares that seem to stretch 
endlessly in every direction. 

Watching, I soon grew tired of the monotony and turned to 
read or eat or doze; when I looked again, subtle changes had 
interposed. The green had faded to yellow, brown, even 
orange. A great river twisted its brown flood across the map. 
Occasionally, a speckled town broke the pattern with a finer 
mesh of streets. Roads and railways converged and parted, 
each as fine and as smoothly curved as a fishing-line across the 
floor. 



C OLO R ADO 15 

It was at once a familiar and unknown land to me: familiar 
from frequent flights across it, and four trips by automobile as 
a student; yet strange because I had never stayed there, but 
like a migrant goose had chiefly seen it from above. 

Over Nebraska I saw again the flowing dust I remembered 
so well. At first it was no more than a haze, a shimmer, an 
almost imperceptible mist over the land. I thought it was but 
a trick that the vibration of the plane was playing on my eyes. 
Slowly it grew clearer and more dense until it formed into soft, 
grey-yellow clouds flowing in gentle puffs across the fields. In 
1934 and 1935 I had choked in clouds such as these, seen the 
dried leaves of the unripened corn blown across the highway, 
and the dust piled in the lee of sheds and f enceposts. 

From 18,000 feet above, one is not part of the land, but one 
can see how the sun beats down and how its vagaries distribute 
drought or flood, life or disaster, wealth or ruin, prosperity or 
despair to the world below. Here, on the border-zone between 
the green fields of the east and the buff deserts of the west, the 
power and intransigence of the sun are very real. 

In Denver, Professor Charles Morris met me, and we drove 
to the red-brick campus at Boulder, at the foot of the brick-red 
mountain slabs which fence the main Rockies. 

A few days of lecturing quickly passed, and after them came 
my reward. Two of the professors of geology drove me back 
into the mountains to meet their graduate students and to see 
their field work. Behind Boulder we plunged into the wall of 
mountains, up a canyon cut by a bucking, white-crested 
stream, and drove smoothly up along it in a manner that would 
have amazed the hardy fur-traders and prospectors who first 
entered these fastnesses. Where once a mule-trail skirted the 
torrent's wall there is now a four-lane highway; where men 
ached and sweated under packs and headstraps towards the 
peaks diesel trucks now pant over Loveland's i2,ooo-foot pass; 
where once were gold mines there are now $10 uranium cures 



16 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

for bursitis. In the bar of the Leadville Hotel where miners 
once toasted Baby Doe Tabor one can airmail a picture post- 
card home, or order fresh sea-food specials. Even the Indians, 
hunted no longer, sell moccasins and foot-long hot dogs. At 
gasoline stations tame bears drink pop by the bottlef ul. 

We left the highway and by dusty back roads entered the 
heart of the mountains where the hillsides are still lush green 
and the gentians bottle-blue in the clear, cool mountain air. 
We passed the ghosts of the old mining camps Aspen, Ely, 
Park City, Leadville, Tintic but saw only one active mine. It 
is strange that so great a mining state as Colorado should so 
quickly have yielded up its riches, treasure which went to build 
Denver and New York. This presages the day when the 
world's stock of easily accessible minerals will be exhausted, 
and its remaining store will be more difficult and more ex- 
pensive to acquire, 

My companions, Professors Larry Walker and Warren 
Longley, showed me the magnificent Colorado scenery and to 
its beauty added interest by pointing out great folds in the 
rocks, necks of former volcanoes, and scars of ancient earth- 
quakes. Weathering had laid bare the bones and tissue of the 
earth, and erosion had exposed sections of the crust to view. 
The core of one range of mountains was a great block of 
granite and gneiss uplifted to 14,000 feet and denuded of its 
cover. On the lower slopes multicoloured shales and sand- 
stones lay in twisted layers where they had slipped off this 
great protrusion. These sights fascinated me, for the study of 
the causes of mountain-building and the nature of continental 
structure is my own particular scientific specialty. 

Because the solid part of the earth changes so slowly, its 
study was only marginally included in the program of the IGY, 
which dealt particularly with the mobile aspects of the earth 
that would show significant changes within an eighteen-month 
period. Therefore, I was not as preoccupied during the IGY 



COLORADO X y 

with my own special research programs, as many geophysicists 
were, and when the chance came I was free to travel widely. 
At the same time, because I knew that the key to the physics 
of mountain-building lies in a consideration of the earth as a 
whole and in a comparison of the features of all mountains, I 
welcomed the opportunity to further my own work by going to 
see as many mountains as possible. 

We drove on to the high-altitude solar observatory which the 
National Bureau of Standards and the University of Colorado 
maintain on one of the highest ridges of the Rocky Mountains 
near Climax. The place, with its clear skies and its elevation of 
13,000 feet, high above much of the atmosphere, provides 
particularly good conditions for observing the sun. This solar 
observatory is a fine example of the 120 throughout the world 
which maintained a continuous watch upon the sun during the 
ICY. 

The instruments that we saw were of three types. There 
were radio telescopes equipped with a great dish of wire net- 
ting to catch the radio noise emitted by the sun. There was an 
ordinary telescope fitted with a dark-red filter specially de- 
signed to reduce the glare and to make visible the great out- 
bursts of hydrogen gas, called solar flares, which occur ir- 
regularly on the sun. The flames of erupting hydrogen are red 
and can best be seen through these filters, which eliminate 
almost all other light. Every minute a camera took a photo- 
graph of the sun through this telescope. Since much of the 
equipment was automatic, most of the scientists were not at 
the observatory but in their offices in Boulder, seeking to 
interpret the results. A young Austrian astronomer was on 
duty, and he led us along a foot-path through the mountain 
glade to see the third and most interesting telescope of all. This 
telescope was of the type invented by the great French as- 
tronomer, Lyot, for studying solar prominences. At one time 
these jets of incandescent gas which constantly play about the 



i8 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

surface of the sun could only be seen at its edges during total 
solar eclipses, but Lyot devised a means of placing a metal disc 
far up the tube of telescopes in such a manner that an artificial 
eclipse would be created. 

Our guide allowed us to look at these prominences. The 
black shadow of the disc exactly covered the bright face of the 
sun. In the sun's atmosphere we could see great bursts of flame 
darting out and curving in graceful paths before falling back 
again. Seeing the motion of these vast flames and knowing 
that many were larger than the whole earth, we realized vividly 
with what colossal speed and energy they were travelling 
and how violent is the activity of the sun. 

Afterwards, as we turned to walk the mountain paths in 
sunshine, the beauty of the morning was enhanced by our 
awareness, dim though it might be, of the wonders of the uni- 
verse which the efforts of generations of scientists have re- 
vealed. I have endeavoured, in recounting my travels during 
the IGY, to communicate to the reader the sense of fascination 
that accompanied me. To this end, I have interwoven the ac- 
counts of my stop-overs with chapters explaining the main 
programs of the IGY. We can do no better than start by 
considering the sun itself. 



CHAPTER 3 



THE SUN 



The sun is master of our material life. From its light and heat 
we derive all our vital powers; without it there would be neither 
daylight nor seasons, wind nor weather. All would be dark and 
still and unimaginably cold, for the earth is but the sun's tiny 
child and creature. Because the sun's influence upon the sur- 
face of the earth is so great, a careful study of the sun played 
an essential and indeed dominant part in the International 
Geophysical Year. 

Our first impression that the sun is a huge furnace is correct 
enough. True, its fires are not burning in air; their immense 
heat is generated by hydrogen atoms combining with one an- 
other to form helium atoms, with the resultant emission of the 
vast energy of nuclear fusion. The sun is, in fact, an enormous 
nuclear reactor, not fissioning uranium as man-made reactors 
do, but fusing hydrogen as men hope the reactors of the future 
will. The temperature at the centre of the sun has been es- 
timated to be thirty million degrees Fahrenheit and the pres- 
sure three hundred billion pounds per square inch. 

The sun, like other furnaces, emits radiation and jets of gas. 
Some radiation, in the form of light, heat, and weak ultra- 



20 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

violet rays, reaches us every day. It was suspected, however, 
that other rays of the sun are prevented from reaching us by 
the earth's atmosphere acting as a shield, for the aurora gives 
us evidence that the top of the atmosphere is at times violently 
agitated by blasts of gases or radiation which cannot break 
through to the earth. The light, heat, and radio waves which 
we receive from the sun penetrate the shield of the earth's 
atmosphere through two so-called "windows," and these rays 
are the only ones directly observable from the earth's surface. 
This shielding effect of the atmosphere has made it difficult for 
us to observe the sun, for even on a cloudless day the atmos- 
phere distorts our view and makes the details in photographs 
fuzzy. Like a gardener in a greenhouse in winter, we look out 
through misty windows, not knowing how cold it is outside nor 
from which direction the wind is blowing. 

As Sir Isaac Newton said, "the only remedy is a most serene 
and quiet air such as may perhaps be found on the tops of the 
highest mountains above the grosser clouds." This ideal was 
attained just before the IGY when astronomers from the Paris 
Observatory and Princeton University sent balloons carrying 
12-inch telescopes into the stratosphere, the rarefied outermost 
layer of the earth's atmosphere. This is the limit that a balloon 
can reach, since it must be lighter than the air surrounding it 
and so can never rise above the whole atmosphere. One of the 
most important achievements of the IGY was to send artificial 
satellites and rockets above the atmosphere to heights from 
which a clear, unfiltered view of the sun could be obtained. 
The gardener had at last been able to put his head right out of 
the window. 

Rocket astronomy involves immense problems and great 
expense. A rocket is near the top of its trajectory only for a very 
few minutes, and travels rapidly, rotating and tumbling as it 
goes. If, in spite of these unstable conditions, the instruments 
are able to obtain records, there is the further problem of re- 



THE SUN 21 

covering the records intact. The instruments themselves are 
generally destroyed. The Ws that were first used after the 
war could carry a load of 'up to a ton, but most of the other 
rockets available for research can take useful loads of less than 
200 pounds each* Satellites were even more severely limited 
when the IGY began, but within three and a half years of the 
first launching, sophisticated instruments and the comments 
of the first cosmonaut have enabled mankind at last to en- 
compass the true appearance of the naked universe. The rec- 
ords transmitted back to earth, combined with those made 
continuously at many ground observatories (like the one at 
Climax) , have given us a new and clearer understanding of the 
sun. 

It now appears that space, at any rate around the earth and 
sun, has a "climate" as changeable as that on the earth's sur- 
face. It is not, as was formerly supposed, an inert near-vacuum, 
still and cold. In their thin but violent way, the regions of 
nearer space are continually shaken and buffeted by a bom- 
bardment from the sun of electro-magnetic waves of many 
frequencies, called radiation, and of high-speed atoms and 
fragments of atoms which strike the earth's atmosphere in 
tenuous blasts of "solar wind." To understand electro-magnetic 
radiation better, we shall compare it to another kind of radia- 
tion, sound waves, with which we are more familiar. 

Everyone knows that the beating of a drumhead, the bowing 
of a violin, or the blowing of a horn create vibrations that 
travel outwards in all directions through the air to strike our 
ears. Each note has a characteristic number of vibrations per 
second, called frequency. Thus middle C has a frequency of 
512 vibrations each second, and high C 1,024. Notes that we 
recognize as musical have frequencies ranging between 20,000 
vibrations a second for high notes and 20 a second for the 
lowest. Above these frequencies are ultra-sonic vibrations, 
inaudible to us but just as real. Below these frequencies we 



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THE SUN 23 

distinguish individual beats and cease to regard the effect as 
music. This is an idiosyncrasy of ours, for the ticking of a clock 
or the beating of a heart is just as regular, although less fre- 
quent, than the vibration of musical notes. There is, in effect, 
a great spectrum of mechanical vibrations, and our ears only 
hear or recognize as music the part within what we may call 
the "audible window/' 

A flash of lightning and the accompanying clap of thunder 
enable us to time the speed of sound. If a flash occurs 1,000 
feet away and we hear the clap a second later, we know that 
the sound has travelled at the rate of 1,000 feet a second. All 
sounds travel in air at the same speed. When middle C is 
played, the instrument vibrates 512 times a second, and each 
vibration will have travelled about 2 feet before the next starts 
out. This distance is called the wave-length, and wave-length 
multiplied by frequency gives velocity. Thus, the higher the 
frequency of a note, the shorter its wave-length. Either of these 
numbers, frequency or wave-length, defines one particular 
note and tells us two things about it: which note on the scale 
is being played, and its pitch, whether high or low, treble or 
bass. 

Just as mechanical vibrations include heart beats, earth- 
quake waves, sound waves, music and inaudible ultra-sonic 
vibrations which seem so diverse to us but which only differ 
in frequency and wave-length, so are radio waves, heat, light, 
ultra-violet, and X-rays all related. They are all electro- 
magnetic waves of different frequencies, distinguished from 
one another as the music of a piccolo is distinguished from that 
of a double bass. These electro-magnetic waves travel at the 
astonishing velocity of 186,000 miles, or 300,000,000 metres, 
each second. As in the case of sound waves, frequency mul- 
tiplied by wave-length gives velocity. Thus, radio waves broad- 
cast at a frequency of 1,000,000 vibrations a second (called 
one megacycle) each have a wave-length of 300 metres. The 



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THE SUN 2 ~ 

two multiplied together give the velocity. Either number de- 
fines a particular wave. 

Radio wave-lengths in the broadcast range are measured in 
metres, short radio waves in inches, heat waves in hundredths 
of an inch, and visible light in hundred thousandths of an 
inch; ultra-violet and X-rays have shorter wave-lengths still. 
All vibrate an enormous number of times a second. Radio 
waves are defined in terms either of wave-length or of fre- 
quency, but short waves are usually specified in terms of 
wave-length measured in Angstrom units, each of which is one 
hundred millionth of a centimetre. 

We enjoy light and colour in our lives, just as we enjoy 
symphonic music, without thinking what constitutes either; 
but physicists and composers find it useful to analyse what 
they see or hear. Sunlight, like a symphony, is a great melange, 
but it can be broken into its parts by a prism. We see examples 
of this in the coloured flashes of pure light from diamonds, 
dewdrops, and rainbows. Each individual colour in a rainbow 
represents light of a particular frequency and wave-length and 
may be likened to a note on the piano. When a musician hears 
a note, whether it is played alone or as part of a symphony, he 
can tell two things about it: what note it is, and whether it is 
treble or bass. A physicist, too, can tell two things about an 
individual colour or "line" of light. He can say what element 
was excited to create it and how hot that element was at the 
time. The lines due to a single element may be compared, for 
example, to all the "C's" or all the "D's" on the scale; and the 
temperature of the element is comparable to the pitch of 
sound. 

C notes have characteristic frequencies, such as 32, 64, 128, 
256, 512, 1024 vibrations a second; similarly the element 
hydrogen, if suitably excited, gives rise to lines of light of 
characteristic wave-lengths, including those of 1216, 4340, 
4861, and 6563 Angstrom units. It was the strong red line of 



26 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

6563 Angstrom units, created by fast-moving hydrogen gas on 
the sun, which astronomers saw through the telescope at 
Climax as they watched for solar flares. Other light could not 
penetrate the filters in the telescope. 

By analysing light, spectroscopists can determine the ele- 
ments present in the source. The gas helium, indeed, takes its 
name from the Greek word for sun because its spectral lines 
were discovered in sunlight before anyone had found the ele- 
ment on earth. The temperature of the source can be estimated 
by noting which are the dominant lines among those peculiar 
to each element. If the source is only warm, it emits heat but 
no light. We all know this, for we recognize that a red-hot 
poker is not as hot as a poker at white heat. As an object is 
heated, the dominant radiation changes to shorter and shorter 
wave-lengths with higher and higher frequencies until at a 
temperature of about 100,000 degrees, the object emits ultra- 
violet light, and at about 1,000,000 degrees it emits X-rays. 
Below the opposite end of the spectrum lie waves of increas- 
ingly longer wave-length and lower frequency called infra-red 
and radio waves. 

Careful examination and analysis of the light of the sun to 
determine which lines are represented enable the spectrosco- 
pist to identify not only the elements but also the temperature 
of different parts. Until rockets and satellites broke through 
the roof of the atmosphere, much of the evidence for this was 
indirect, for humans do not notice any but light and heat 
waves and are cut off from most of the other waves by the 
benign umbrella of the earth's atmosphere. Even the waves 
that can penetrate the atmosphere are often partly absorbed, 
as the disgruntled sun-bather can attest when clouds come 
between him and the sun. 

It is well that the earth's atmosphere protects us from the 
electro-magnetic energy that floods the universe, for X-rays 
and ultra-violet light would produce severe burns which might 



THE SUN 27 

kill us now and which would certainly have prohibited the 
development of living creatures by preventing the formation 
of the necessary large molecules. 

Through spectroscopy and the satellites and rockets, we 
have gained a better idea of the shape and nature of the sun. 
It looks a little like the end of a jelly roll. In the middle is the 
round yellow photosphere, the part we see every day. This is 
separated by the red rim of the chromosphere from the paler 
yellow-green corona. And all three are linked by a variety of 
eruptions and imperfections, such as sun-spots, solar flares, 
and prominences which burst through the outer layers from 
the hot interior. 

The photosphere has a temperature of about 10,000 degrees 
Fahrenheit and radiates most strongly the heat and light waves 
and those ultra-violet rays which conveniently enough pene- 
trate the atmosphere and reach us through the visible window. 

The layer immediately above the photosphere was first seen 
in total eclipses as a red rim and was called the chromosphere. 
Because the chromosphere is much hotter than the sun's sur- 
face, it radiates light of higher frequency. But this ultra-violet 
light does not penetrate our atmosphere and so could not be 
photographed until rockets carried cameras above the atmos- 
phere. 

One of the brightest "colours" in the chromosphere is the 
invisible ultra-violet light of precisely 1216 Angstrom units. 
This wave-length, called the Lyman alpha line, is radiated by 
hydrogen at a temperature of tens of thousands of degrees and 
so tells astronomers both the composition and the temperature 
of the chromosphere. 

Above the chromosphere lies the faint but vast corona seen 
only during total eclipses. Its strange and awesome brilliance 
casts a faint greenish light of unforgettable beauty which 
terrified early man. The corona was suspected to be even 
hotter than the chromosphere and to emit X-rays of short 



28 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

wave-lengths. To prove this supposition, measurements of the 
X-ray flux had to be taken above the atmosphere during a 
total eclipse, when the rest of the sun would be hidden. On 
October 12, 1958, in the only total eclipse during the IGY ? the 
necessary data were obtained. The U.S.S. Point Defiance had 
been sent to the Danger Islands, in the mid-Pacific, which lay 
in the path of totality. As the moon passed in front of the face 




F - Flare 
S - Sunspot 
P - Prominence 
FS Flare Surge 

Diagrammatic representation of major solar activity. 

of the sun, six instrumented rockets were fired in sequence 
from the deck of the ship. The information which they tele- 
metered back showed that at totality (when both the photo- 
sphere and the chromosphere were hidden) the visible and 
ultra-violet radiation dropped to a low value, but the X-rays 
coming from the still-visible corona continued strong. The 
thin corona, more tenuous than most laboratory vacuums, 
emits X-rays of wave-lengths of 10 to 100 Angstrom units, 
indicating a normal temperature of about 1,000,000 degrees 
Centigrade. 

The path of totality of an eclipse is usually so narrow that it 



T H E S U N 29 

rarely lies over important places, but interestingly enough the 
same 1958 eclipse at sunset was total over the large telescopes 
of the observatory at Santiago, Chile. 

Thus far we have been considering the sun in a quiet state. 
It is evident to us all that the total heat radiated by the sun 
does not vary greatly from year to year. This average state, 
however, is interrupted by cyclical and irregular disturbances; 
for superimposed on the tremendous background radiation are 
many small and irregular variations which, although they do 
not greatly influence the sun's heat, produce other terrestrial 
effects quite out of proportion to their energy. Among the 
varying features are small rising and falling jets of hot gases 
called spicules and prominences; much larger, brief outbursts 
called solar flares; longer-lived complexes of sun-spots; and 
bright patches accompanying them known as faculae and 
plages. These erupt from the photosphere through the outer 
layers of the sun, knitting them together, and presenting fasci- 
nating problems for observation and interpretation. Chief of 
these variations are sun-spots, which were first recorded two 
thousand years ago by the Chinese. When the sun's brilliance 
was partially filtered by mist, they noticed some particularly 
large spots and called them "flying birds." Others were ob- 
served through the first telescopes, between 1608 and 1615; 
Galileo's insistence that they were blemishes on the most per- 
fect of heavenly bodies placed him in disfavour with the 
Church. 

The nature of sun-spots has long intrigued astronomers, and 
one of the objectives of the Polar Years and of the IGY was to 
try to discover what causes them. The problem has not yet 
been fully resolved, but much is now known. Sun-spots grow 
and disperse intermittently; they rotate with the sun once every 
twenty-seven days and may last for several revolutions. Al- 
though they look small on the face of the sun, they are really 
vast, a minor one being larger than the earth. Associated with 



IGY : The Year of the New Moons 



sun-spots are strong magnetic fields; the spots always occur in 
pairs, one of north and the other of south magnetic polarity. 
They are known to be giant vortices, or funnels, which appear 
dark because the gas in them is cooler than the rest of the 
surface. It has been recently suggested that these vortices are 
parts of belts of rotating gas within the sun which protrude 
from its surface to form sun-spots. 



36 



35 



34 



33 



to 



CO 

Q 



31 - 



30- 



Average January 
Temperature 




29 
1880 T890 1900 



7910 1920 

Year 



1930 1940 t950 1960 



Chart shows temperature in New York vary- 
ing with cycles of greatest sun-spot activity. 

The number and the position of sun-spots is not constant. 
In 1843, a ft er sun-spots had been under observation for more 
than two centuries, Heinrich Schwabe reported that they 
fluctuate in number and size by periodic cycles averaging a 
little more than eleven years. Associated with the sun-spot 
cycle are many other interesting effects, such as solar flares, 
which tend to increase in number and intensity at sun-spot 



THE SUN 31 

maxima. By good fortune the IGY coincided with the most 
intense maximum yet recorded. These effects were pronounced, 
and numerous large solar flares were observed. 

A solar flare had first been spotted on September i, 1859, by 
Richard Carrington. He had projected an image of the sun on 
a screen so that he could sketch a group of giant sun-spots, 
when, as he says, he noticed that "within the area of the great 
north group, two patches of intensely bright white light broke 
out. Seeing the outburst to be very rapidly on the increase and 
being somewhat flurried by the surprise, I hastily ran to call 
someone to witness the exhibition with me and, on returning 
within sixty seconds, was mortified to find that it was already 
much changed and enfeebled/' This astonishing event, which 
was noticed by at least one other observer, was exceptional. 
No solar flare of equal brilliance has been noted in the century 
since, and indeed no more were seen until 1892 when 
G. E. Hale invented a spectrograph capable of photographing 
the sun in the light of a single line. 

Flares were found to be great outbursts of hot hydrogen. Be- 
cause in temperature and composition they are different from 
the rest of the sun's surface, they can be seen, as at Climax, 
through a filter which only transmits the particular wave- 
length by which they shine most brightly. 

Thirty hours after the solar flare, Carrington noticed a size- 
able magnetic storm and brilliant displays of aurora, which, he 
suggested, had been caused by the flare. There is no doubt now 
that he was correct, that solar flares do cause striking effects in 
the earth's magnetic field, in aurora, and in radio transmission. 
The violence of these outbursts was demonstrated in an experi- 
ment performed in California in August 1957. Within a few 
minutes of the first observation of a large solar flare, rockets 
carrying instruments were fired above the atmosphere. They 
recorded X-rays of wave-lengths as short as i or 2 Angstrom 
units. Such unusually short wave-lengths indicate that above 



32 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

the solar flare temperatures as high as 10,000,000 degrees 
Centigrade were being generated in the sun's corona. 

Flares vary widely in size and frequency. With few sun- 
spots, only one or two small flares, each lasting only a few 
minutes, may occur in a month, but during years of peak solar 
activity there may be several each day, some of enormous 
power, often visible for over an hour. The cause of flares and 
their exact nature is not known, but their size, their cata- 
strophic nature, and the powerful effects that they have upon 
the earth are unmistakable. They are violent explosions which 
in a few minutes may grow as large as vast sun-spots and cover 
ten billion square miles. By means of these flares the sun 
ejects jets of tenuous gas which, moving at hundreds of miles 
a second through space, slam into the earth's atmosphere as 
gigantic shock waves. The most powerful of them squash the 
earth's magnetic field, play havoc with communications, and 
induce auroral displays that light up half the earth. These 
violent bursts of radiation and atomic particles have been 
called solar shock waves, or magnetic typhoons. They con- 
stitute one of the major factors disturbing the "climate" of 
nearby space and may well prove hazardous for space travel. 

Below are listed the effects which flares can produce, but be- 
cause the jets of gas are directional and often miss the earth, 
not all these phenomena are observed every time. 

1. A burst of reddish light, visible through filters, which 
reaches the earth in eight minutes. These waves travel 186,000 
miles a second. 

2. A flash of ultra-violet light which reaches the earth in 
eight minutes and produces sudden ionospheric and magnetic 
disturbances. 

3. A burst of short-wave radio "noise," which also takes 
eight minutes to reach the earth. 

4. A flux of low-energy cosmic rays, high-speed atoms, and 
electrons, which takes half an hour to reach the earth and 



THE SUN 33 

which has been observed on less than a dozen occasions, most 
strongly on February 23, 1956. These particles travel about 
50,000 miles a second. 

5. A stream of slower atoms and electrons which takes 
about twenty-four hours to reach the earth and gives rise to 
auroral displays and magnetic and ionospheric effects. These 
travel about i ,000 miles a second. 

Better understood than solar flares are solar prominences 
such as I saw at Climax, These are great clouds and jets of gas, 
forever playing over the surface of the sun, rising to heights of 
50,000 miles and more, but lacking the strong terrestrial effects 
of flares. Presumably this is because they are less violent and 
do not escape to bombard the earth's upper atmosphere. 

Another interesting point about the sun which was clarified 
during the IGY was the nature of the green flash often seen at 
sunset and less frequently at sunrise. It had been maintained 
by some that this was a momentary optical illusion, but the 
observers of the autumn sunset at the south pole station dis- 
proved it. There, over the level snow fields, the sun sank so 
slowly for the winter night that the green flash was visible for 
half an hour. In addition, both Father D. J. K. O'Connell, 
director of the Vatican City Observatory, and Professor M. 
Minnaert of Holland took photographs and published papers 
proving that the green flash is due to diffraction of the sun's 
light by the atmosphere. The green flash is as real as the flash 
of colour in a diamond or a rainbow. 



CHAPTER 4 



GEOPHYSICAL 
JAMBOREE 



AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 1957 

Later in July I returned from Colorado to Toronto to plunge 
again into the preparations for the Xlth General Assembly of 
the International Union of Geodesy and Geophysics, which 
was to open in Toronto at the end of August. Whereas the 
International Geophysical Year was a great but brief world- 
wide project in geophysics, the IUGG had long been the less- 
publicized but permanent forum for international geophysics. 
The IUGG holds a general meeting every three years, and it 
tries to distribute these and its smaller meetings fairly among 
the sixty member nations. 

International science is organized chiefly in two forms, both 
with useful but different functions. On the one hand are the 
operational agencies, such as in the United Nations, the World 
Health Organization and the World Meteorological Organiza- 
tion, which were established with the definite objectives of 
improving health and forecasting weather. These bodies have 
large budgets and permanent staffs; their meetings are at- 



GEOPHYSICAL JAMBOREE 35 

tended by civil servants and involve the execution of govern- 
mental policies. On the other hand are a dozen unions, some 
almost a century old, corresponding to the main branches of 
science. Their function is to enable scientists to meet and dis- 
cuss science. They have official recognition, and government as 
well as private scientists attend, but they are not bound by 
government policies and diplomatic usages. The fees paid by 
the member countries are small and the unions have no per- 
manent staffs. They do not carry out broad routine tasks, for 
their function is to promote science, not to utilize it. The In- 
ternational Union of Geodesy and Geophysics is one of these 
unions. 

The unions function in three ways. First of all, they main- 
tain permanent services and commissions, often located at a 
university, where all the records for a particular subject are sent 
from all over the world for collation and publication. In the 
case of the IUGG there are several such centres for different 
subjects. The headquarters for geodetic data is in Paris, and 
all observations that might further the task of measuring the 
size and shape of the earth are collected there. All records of 
earthquakes obtained by six hundred seismological observa- 
tories are sent to Strasbourg and Cambridge; a few selected 
stations send reports of large earthquakes by cable to Washing- 
ton, whence preliminary information is immediately made 
available to the press and to relief organizations. Standards for 
the analysis of variations in sea water are prepared and main- 
tained at Copenhagen; the wobble of the earth's axis is studied 
at Naples; geomagnetic data of different kinds are collected at 
Gottingen, de Bilt, and Tortosa. Anyone wishing informa- 
tion on the world's earthquakes or on geomagnetism may 
obtain published summaries, instead of having to write to six 
hundred seismological stations or two hundred geomagnetic 
observatories. 

Because most of this work is done by men and women who 



36 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

love to do it, by professors in their spare time and by their 
dedicated assistants, astonishingly little cost is involved. It says 
a great deal for the devotion and very little for the advertising 
acumen of scientists that such extensive work should have 
gone on for years with so little support and no public acknowl- 
edgement. The budget for the IUGG for 1958 was $80,000, 
most of which went for research, publications, and travel ex- 
penses. Most of the unions have no paid staff and their head- 
quarters is in the office of whichever scientist has been elected 
secretary. This frugality may be startling, but it has its re- 
wards. The unions, having no large benefactors, are almost 
wholly free from interference and can pursue without fear or 
favour whatever course a majority of the delegates and mem- 
bers decide upon. 

The second function of the international unions is to spon- 
sor world-embracing ventures in science, such as the Interna- 
tional Geophysical Year. The third function is to hold regular 
meetings, such as the one in Toronto, which constitute the 
chief forums for international exchange by leading scientists. 

The Xlth General Assembly was to have met in one of the 
American republics. Unfortunately, eighteen months before 
the meetings were to take place, its government suffered a 
rather violent upheaval, and the scientists there asked to be 
relieved of the responsibility. Five or six bales of cablegrams 
and letters, and three months later, the bemused geophysicists 
of Toronto awoke to the realization that they would be playing 
host to the largest meeting of the world's geophysicists to be 
held during the IGY. They had but a few months in which to 
transform themselves from scientists into convention man- 
agers. 

Anyone who has ever taken part in one of these affairs 
knows the basic requirements for a successful meeting. The 
first is a town sufficiently large to absorb the influx of 1,500 
people without complete dislocation of its civic housekeeping. 



GEOPHYSICAL JAMBOREE 37 

Ideally the town should contain a place where the 1,500 people 
can be housed and fed within easy reach of the lecture halls in 
which they are to meet, give their papers, and hold their 
discussions. Unnecessary complications arise when the scien- 
tists have to stay in hotels at one side of the city and hold their 
meetings five miles away, with heavy traffic in between. The 
lecture rooms themselves must provide certain amenities; noth- 
ing is more distressing than to attempt to show slides with a 
defective lantern in an ill-ventilated room that cannot be 
darkened. For the peace of mind and well-being of the dele- 
gates there must also be good post offices, an adequate num- 
ber of telephones, maps, signs, and information bureaus 
staffed by linguists. Facilities must be provided for the press, 
since scientists have at last realized that the public has an 
interest in what they are doing. Most important of all is the 
creation of an easy, friendly atmosphere to dispel the wariness 
natural among members of diverse groups. The scientific 
papers given during the day are most thoroughly discussed 
over drinks or dinner, and the resolutions that must be passed 
at formal assemblies are often most easily hammered out at 
lunch. 

The University of Toronto, with its residences and lecture 
halls, was admirably suited to house both delegates and meet- 
ings. The committee members could devote themselves, there- 
fore, to overcoming mechanical difficulties and to promoting 
amity. 

Typical of the many mechanical difficulties were the bank- 
ing arrangements. On the first day of registration we collected 
$20,000 in cash, in every known currency, I think, except gold 
bars and wampum. 

Ensuring a desirable atmosphere entailed just as much 
effort. The three general assemblies preceding this one had 
been held in Oslo, in Brussels, and in Rome. Even Toronto's 
most ardent admirers would not suggest that as a city it holds 



38 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

the historic interest of these three capitals, but we knew we 
could rely on the hospitality of its citizens and the beauty of its 
surrounding countryside. Lacking a Roman forum to display 
to visitors, we would make do with Niagara Falls. The hos- 
pitality, too, was unusual. The opening party was an official 
reception given by the Province of Ontario, on the face of it a 
solemn and ceremonious occasion. It was held in the Royal 
Ontario Museum, just around the corner from the university 
an admirable location providing both propinquity and 
spaciousness. It did not, however, provide the amenities con- 
sidered by the caterers as essential to the serving of food and 
drink. But these ingenious men were equal to the task. They 
took over an ancient Chinese tomb for their kitchen. After the 
delegates had made their way past the official reception line, 
the first sight that greeted them was a neat maid efficiently 
concocting hot hors d'oeuvres in the lee of a stone camel. 

To the bewildered eye of the onlooker these large meetings 
appear to be a cross between a scientific forum and a circus, 
and for the unfortunate scientist involved in their organization 
the circus aspect seems to predominate. He may echo the query 
of the public: "Why hold these troublesome and expensive 
meetings merely to allow scientists to listen to a lot of papers 
that they could equally well read in any of a number of schol- 
arly publications in the peace and quiet of their own libraries?" 
The answer is simple. These gatherings further the interna- 
tionalism of science since they provide continuing opportuni- 
ties for scientists to meet each other, to learn of each other's 
work, and to cross national boundaries and see how others live 
and work. The question I am most frequently asked in connec- 
tion with the IGY is whether there was a genuine exchange of 
information between nations and especially between East and 
West, There was a genuine exchange, and it was possible be- 
cause the men and women concerned had been accustomed 
for years to meet in a friendly atmosphere to discuss new in- 



GEOPHYSICAL JAMBOREE 39 

formation, ideas, and discoveries. The International Geophysi- 
cal Year was but a vaster, more comprehensive version of these 
regular sessions, conducted in the same atmosphere of scien- 
tific enquiry. 

As I write, I have just returned from a small meeting in 
Paris. My colleagues included a Spanish Jesuit, a Hungarian 
Jew who had immigrated to the United States as a boy, a 
Japanese professor, an ardent member of the Soviet Com- 
munist party, and a scion of an ancient and aristocratic Italian 
family of astronomers. All was harmony because, however 
different our view on other matters might be, we had a com- 
mon bond in science and geophysics hence the simplicity and 
ease of scientific meetings as opposed to political or business 
ones. This is not due to the sound reason and sweet temper of 
the scientists involved, which are no greater and no less than 
in any other group of well-educated, sophisticated men and 
women, but rather it is due to the nature of the subject dis- 
cussed. It is a great deal simpler to work out a plan for chart- 
ing the world's oceans than it is to discuss freedom, wealth, 
politics, or religion. 



CHAPTER 5 



ROMANIA 



OCTOBER 1957 

The Toronto meetings were scarcely over when with a 
feeling of rising excitement I left my cluttered office, the lec- 
ture rooms, the stacks of unused documents, the bills and 
thank-you letters and set out to visit the Communist half of 
the world for the first time. I had been invited by the Roma- 
nian Government to visit and lecture on geophysics at various 
universities and institutes. 

The invitation had both surprised and intrigued me, for I 
had no connection with Romania and I knew that very few 
Westerners went there. But I could see no reason for not ac- 
cepting. I was not engaged in secret work; no one could object 
to my lecturing on mountain-building, and I might learn a 
great deal about the geology and geophysics of eastern Eu- 
rope. As a rather conservative, retired colonel, I was not greatly 
disturbed by the thought that I might be accused of being a 
Communist sympathizer. Romanian scientists had attended 
the meetings in Toronto, and if the president of an interna- 
tional union could not pay a return visit to discuss geophysics, 



Sun-spots as seen through a telescope. 



.,' , "I '''." T- : v, * : ' v " 




Detail of sun-spots and granulation on the sun's surface as photo- 
graphed from a high-altitude balloon. 




Mirrors of a coelostat are adjusted to reflect the sun's image into 
a solar telescope at the Shternberg Astronomical Institute, Mos- 




The five-inch coronagraph and spectrograph at the high-altitude 
observatory at Climax, Colorado. Observer at right is inspecting 
the solar-flare patrol instrument. 




A large solar prominence, 140,000 miles high. The small white 
disc indicates the relative size of the earth. 




Balloon parachute, and mounted instrument package for high- 
altitude solar research are readied for launching in Minnesota. 




The fourth of six rockets is fired from U.S.S. Point Defiance dur- 
ing the total solar eclipse of October 12, 1958, at the Danger 
Islands, Central Pacific Ocean. 




The firing of the first successful Vanguard rocket on March 17, 
1958. A small test sphere entered into orbit and became the 
second U. S.-IGY satellite. 




A highly polished twenty-inch Navy Vanguard satellite is in- 
stalled in a rocket at Cape Canaveral, Florida. 




Explorer VII, last and largest of the satellites 
in the U. S. IGY program, is inspected be- 
fore its launching on October 13, 1959. 




Launching of the U. S. Air Force's Lunar 
Probe III on November 8, 1958, which 
failed to reach the moon when its third 
stage did not fire. 




The instrument container and part of the 
parachute of a Soviet research rocket recov- 
ered after carrying 4,840 pounds of experi- 
mental equipment to an altitude of 132 
miles in May 1957. 




Replica of Sputnik III, which was launched on May 15, 1958. 
It carried 2,130 pounds of instruments and power-supply source. 




The firing of a United States Aerobee rocket at the research 
launching site at Churchill, Manitoba, Canada. The antennae 
are used to track the rocket. Instruments on different rockets 
measure different properties of the upper atmosphere, aurora, 
and cosmic rays. 



ROMANIA 41 

then there is neither much use in having international organi- 
zations nor much hope for world understanding. 

Nevertheless, it was with some misgiving that I left To- 
ronto. It was that gay northern season, gayer than southern 
springtime, when the maples light the woods like flame a 
brilliant presage to the dark, cold poignancy of winter. 

The chill and apprehension vanished overnight; I was in 
Europe again, caught up in its fascination and busy with the 
problems of my journey. They were not trivial. During one 
short day in Paris, I twice had to visit the Canadian Embassy,, 
the Hungarian and Romanian Consulates, and the Hungarian 
Embassy. They seemed to be located in out-of-the-way places. 
With the greatest rush and difficulty I got all my visas from 
the uncomprehending and secretive officials in their untidy 
little offices, and finally I was at the platform to catch the 
Arlberg-Orient Express. The Romanians had suggested that I 
fly, but perhaps under the influence of spy movies I chose this 
famous train. My feeling of triumphant satisfaction as I 
climbed onto the sleeper marked Paris-Bucuresti turned to 
disappointment when I saw that the corridor was deserted; the 
beautiful blonde spy, the two Englishmen discussing cricket, 
the German agent, and the other dramatis personae must have 
already gone to bed. I did the same. 

Next morning the sun glistened on the first autumn snow on 
the Alps. The big wet flakes had reached the tracks at the 
Arlberg tunnel, but in Austria the snow had turned to rain. 
The churches reached up from empty fields to point to heaven 
with slim spires or with the stubby thumbs of Byzantine 
domes. 

As the train rattled out of the defiles and entered the broad 
and smiling valleys of Austria, the clouds cleared and the sun 
shone on the brown forests and the white peaks above. The 
face of Austria was coloured like that of a weather-beaten old 



42 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

man, and in the evening as we approached Vienna and the 
border I felt the old world dying. 

The Vienna station epitomized the West. It was new, bril- 
liantly lighted, and gay with people; its kiosks were full of good 
things. As the crowd swarmed off the train, I lingered in the 
door of my compartment, and an American said to me: 
"Aren't you getting off? This is the end of the line!" Unwit- 
tingly, he had expressed my worst fears; so I got off to take a 
last look at the West and to buy an emergency supply of 
chocolate, cheese, and fruit. 

When I returned, the modern express had vanished and a 
porter told me that I would find my car on another track. It 
was in a dark corner at the farthest end of the station, linked 
together with one other through-coach and several dishevelled 
freight cars into a mean little train of some of the oldest roll- 
ing stock in Europe. The porter said that the cars came back 
from the east stripped and filthy but that he, fortunately, 
would be leaving it at the border. 

More ominous even than the train were the people on the 
platform. Several thick, squat men in long leather trench coats 
and caps stood and stared at each passenger in turn. Several 
policemen, and an Austrian soldier in a dark green uniform 
and a Tyrolean hat, stood watching them, silent and armed. 
The half-dozen other passengers slipped down the platform, 
climbed on board, and locked themselves in their compart- 
ments. So did I. 

I did not go to bed, but waited to see the border. It took us a 
long time to reach it, and even longer to get across. There were 
long waits and much shouting. Outside were flood-lights and 
soldiers with rifles and fixed bayonets. Two sets of officials 
came to my compartment. One talked for a while, but seeing 
that I could not understand him, repeated, "Geld?" several 
times. I said, "Nein!" and he went away. Another scrutinized 
my passport and took it. The train picked up speed and ran 



ROMANIA 43 

steadily on. It had crossed the border and there was nothing to 
see outside and nothing to do inside except go to bed. 

When I wakened, the train had stopped. I roused myself to 
look out and saw that we were in a big station. It was Buda- 
pest. I quickly got dressed and left my compartment intending 
to explore. I poked my head out of the window, but the view 
was not encouraging. The station was nearly empty, and ex- 
cept for several policemen and two or three groups of security 
guards, the few people looked incredibly poor and dejected. 
The special police, dressed in peaked caps and long overcoats 
of light blue cloth, were impressive in their armament: a re- 
volver, a three-foot night-stick hanging from a wide black belt, 
and a Sten gun carried at the ready. An old woman with a 
pinched face tried to sell thin newspapers printed in Hun- 
garian, and four youths, balanced on little ladders, scrubbed 
the car windows as though their lives depended on it. No doubt 
they were glad to have any kind of job, but their vigorous ef- 
forts had little effect. They had no water! 

Soon the train pulled out. The city, as we passed through 
it, appeared to be completely dead. There was no traffic, few 
people moved, no smoke came from the factory chimneys. On 
the outskirts we passed a low hill, its sides marked by zig-zag 
trenches. On the top, a solitary tank with a big gun manoeu- 
vred slowly and aimlessly about. No one was in sight. If the 
city was a lifeless head, the country resembled the corpse. 

I suppose that any countryside is generally empty of peo- 
ple, but that day, a year after the revolt, the Hungarian plain 
seemed to me oppressively, ominously deserted and still. In 
general appearance it was much like the Po River valley in 
Italy, but it lacked any gaiety whatsoever. No children played. 
No one waved at the train. Scarcely a wagon ever passed on 
the dirt roads. There were no tractors in the fields, no cars in 
the towns, and few people on the village streets. I had never 
been in Hungary before so I could make no comparisons, 



44 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

but the impression I got was of a land poverty-stricken and 
apathetic to a degree I had never seen elsewhere and did not 
want ever to see again. 

Although I had been warned that there would be no diner, 
and was fully prepared to breakfast on chocolate and cheese, 
I ventured down through the train in search of one. It was 
there, an old car, empty save for two wistfully cheerful Hun- 
garian waiters in faded blue uniforms threadbare and ragged 
at the cuffs. After some difficulty with language I got them to 
bring me an egg and a roll and some poor plum jam. I asked 
for coffee but they brought tea, a miserable approximation 
to the genuine article which seemed to be an infusion of local 
herbs doctored with lemon and sugar. They charged me at 
least ten times too much for this simple meal. When I pointed 
out that they had put the decimal point in the wrong place 
in calculating the conversion, they were not abashed as they 
made the correction, but smiled so sadly that I tipped them 
twice too much into the bargain. 

At lunch I was again their sole support except for a Ger- 
man, who had a bottle of beer. The one main course was an 
incredibly bad stew or goulash, mostly of potatoes, with a 
little tomato and a few pieces of very tough meat of some un- 
identifiable animal. The only dessert was chocolate biscuits 
wrapped in tinfoil, which I was soon to recognize as the high- 
est luxury available in eastern Europe. 

Late in the afternoon we came to the Romanian border, 
which was just as complicated to cross as that separating 
eastern and western Europe. Between the two border stations 
there was much shunting and stopping, and the engine, the 
diner, and all the crew, including the porter, were changed. 
Soldiers with fixed bayonets or tommy guns stood about, and 
the whole train was thoroughly searched. 

Just as we reached the foothills of the Carpathians, it got 
dark. The train puffed up dark valleys, between mountains 



ROMANIA 45 

that I could scarcely see. I was too discouraged even to look 
to see if there was a Romanian diner on the train. In any case 
I did not want to waste the food I had bought, so I sat sadly 
in my compartment and ate it. 

Next morning I awoke as we approached Bucharest. I was 
beginning to think that the countryside and railways of one 
European plain look much like those of another, when I was 
surprised to notice a large army camp full of soldiers. A little 
farther along, a train-load of artillery under canvas was partly 
hidden behind some cars on a siding. 

We entered the city and stopped at a station which was 
noticeably more active and in better trim than those in Hun- 
gary. A dozen Romanian scientists and officials were waiting 
on the platform to greet me. I was warmly welcomed by Dr. 
A. Demetrescu, the courtly senior astronomer and geophysicist 
of Romania, and his colleagues: Drs. Constantinescu, Popo- 
vici, Sabba Stanescu, and two interpreters; Domnisoara 
(Miss) Carin Pavelescu; and Mr. Pamfil Diplan. Drs. Deme- 
trescu and Constantinescu had been the Romanian representa- 
tives to the meetings in Toronto, but the other members of 
the welcoming committee I had not met before. The four 
doctors comprised the Romanian National Committee on 
Geodesy and Geophysics. 

Russian Pobeda taxis took us all to the Athen6e Palace 
Hotel on one side of the main square in front of the former 
Royal Palace. My room was large, clean, and comfortable, and 
it was well looked after by diligent German-speaking Schwa- 
bian maids. After some breakfast, the two interpreters pro- 
posed a short walk through the centre of the town. 

Bucharest was much larger and more attractive than I had 
expected. It is a city of a million people and its handsome ave- 
nues, parks, and buildings justify its nickname of the "Paris 
of eastern Europe." But the automobiles for which the fine 
roads were built had vanished. There were very few vehicles 



46 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

but a great number of people walking, among them many 
Russian soldiers. 

We walked on, crossed a market, and climbed a hill to the 
National Assembly building and the Patriarchie, the princi- 
pal cathedral of the Romanian Greek Orthodox Church. It 
was open but not very crowded. I gathered that churches 
were allowed to remain open if they at least half-heartedly 
followed the party line, because in this way propaganda could 
be brought effectively to those who would not otherwise listen. 
This church was, of course, a show-place, and I was not sur- 
prised to find a priest and a few old women praying and light- 
ing candles which would demonstrate to groups of visitors 
that there was religious freedom. 

My guides next took me to the headquarters of the Office 
for Cultural and Scientific Relations with Foreign Countries. 
It was in a fine old mansion that no doubt formerly belonged 
to some wealthy family. The senior official who received me 
had a dry, hard manner, and the hollowness of his pleasantries 
were greatly heightened by his extraordinary glasses. They 
were large and the outside surface was mirrored. Presumably 
he could see me, but I could only see two great gold discs in 
a blank face as expressionless as that of a bullfrog. Over Turk- 
ish coffee and Tuica (plum brandy) we discussed my tour. 
I had long ago decided that the only sensible behaviour for 
a guest in a Communist country was to be polite and reason- 
ably agreeable. Rudeness would show the West in a poor light 
and keep me from seeing the scientific work I wanted to see. 
I had no intention of compromising myself or of pretending 
that I favoured Communism in the least, but I surmised 
that they wished to impress me with their scientific work and 
that, knowing I was not in sympathy with their politics, they 
would not raise matters which would be embarrassing. My 
host, for such I suppose he might be called, said nothing to 
which I had to take exception, and our conversation, like 



ROMANIA 47 

a bat, flittered aimlessly back and forth, chased by the 
interpreters. 

We returned to the hotel and at 3 p.m. were served a lengthy 
lunch in the marble and plush main dining-room of what 
had once been a fine hotel. Unlike the upstairs, which was 
still efficiently run, the dining-rooms and meals were atrocious. 
Service took a very long time, and weiners, sauerkraut, and 
corn porridge did not seem suitable fare for such ornate sur- 
roundings. 

After lunch I dutifully followed my guides through two art 
galleries, one of them a former royal palace. King Carol's 
royal cipher was still discernible in the plaster mouldings in 
some of the rooms. There were two magnificent El Greco's 
and a group of older paintings vaguely labelled Flemish school 
or XVII-century Italian, but the place of honour was given to 
a large display of the works of two Romanians, Grigorescu 
and Luchian, the latter a rather unimpressive Impressionist, 
the former an enthusiast for peasants, gypsies, and very large 
oxen. I noticed with some pleasure that the paintings were 
titled in English. This, I assumed, perhaps falsely, was for 
the enlightenment of the large delegations from the underde- 
veloped countries which travel through all Iron Curtain coun- 
tries and for whom English is the lingua franca. 

At eight o'clock, without pausing to dine, we went, in pur- 
suit of more culture, to the main concert hall to hear the Sec- 
ond State Orchestra (the First was touring Jugoslavia) and a 
large chorus in Berlioz's "Damnation of Faust." We returned 
to the hotel, at 11:30 p.m. and, like the other guests, settled 
down to the main meal of the day. These extraordinary eating 
hours were the norm in Romania and quickly produced a feel- 
ing of dyspepsia and lethargy. As far as I could judge, the re- 
gime had exaggerated the normally late hours of southern Eu- 
rope for the deliberate purpose of stupefying the people. Noth- 
ing saps the energy faster than to work from seven to three 



48 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

without a break, to have an excessively late lunch, and to go 
to bed after midnight full of a large and soggy meal. 

The next day work started, and on that and succeeding days 
I was taken to the laboratories and offices of the Bucharest 
Observatory, the University of Bucharest, the School of Mines, 
the Geological Survey, and a newly organized school for 
petroleum technology. Most of the senior staff and the older 
technicians had held the same positions under King Carol, 
under Prince Michael, during the German occupation, and 
through the shifting regimes of the Russian Communist domi- 
nation. Some of them probably remember Queen Marie. They 
were all the scientists the country had and they were indispen- 
sable. In the Communist countries I repeatedly noticed that 
scientists are the most durable of officials. This is not because 
they are turncoats, but because their work is non-political. 
They were all enthusiastic Romanians and that sufficed. Their 
Communist masters, needing scientists and having none to 
spare, avoided asking questions that might be too embar- 
rassing. So did I. It was enough for me to see the skill and 
loving care with which they tended their ancient telescopes 
("This one is the largest in eastern Europe outside of Russia; 
that one was newly installed for the IGY solar program"), 
their pride in the books and maps of their country which 
they had published, and the devotion of the favoured graduate 
students allowed to work in the faded laboratories of an an- 
cient professor. 

It was not a bright new world. Theirs was a hard struggle 
amid desperate poverty upon which they put the bravest faces. 
Only by a chance remark did I gain an inkling of what it must 
be like to be the intellectuals of a proud people oppressed 
for seventeen years by an occupying army. One student said 
to me: "I have spent four years learning Russian, but only so 
that I can read translations of American text-books since we 
cannot get the English originals/' Another professor in a 



ROMANIA 



49 



threadbare suit questioned me about salaries in Canada and 
the West. "No/ 7 he said, "not in dollars, but in something I 
can understand how many pounds of beefsteak will your 
salary buy?" When I had answered him, he turned to his 
colleagues who hushed him ("The walls have ears") and 
bitterly said: "You see, they lied." 

For the most part we avoided such discussions, which were 
useless under the circumstances and embarrassing to every- 
one, and turned our attention to the astronomical and geo- 
physical instruments, the geomagnetic and gravity maps, and 
the charts showing the location of the major earthquakes of 
the area. They showed me rock specimens, and I was able to 
assure them of resemblances, about which they had conjec- 
tured from available writings, between some of their peculiar 
rocks, asbestos and nepheline syenite in particular, and Cana- 
dian counterparts. 

On another day I was taken to see the Government print- 
ing bureau. It was a vast affair in the best wedding-cake style 
of new Moscow twelve stories high in the centre and 
covering seven acres. It had taken six years to build. Since I 
saw no other new building in Romania, except the cabinet 
offices facing a park in which still stood a large statue of Stalin, 
I concluded that its erection must have occupied most of 
the building industry of the country during that time. 

Inside the front door was a large hall decorated with marble 
panels and carved doors and furnished with plush side chairs. 
Opening out of it was a concert auditorium. Both were said to 
be for the benefit of the workers, but since the auditorium 
had no seats in it and the hall was reserved for one dance a 
year, their use seemed limited. I was told that great emphasis 
was placed on the welfare of the workers, but the same official 
also admitted that the only parts of the building that had not 
yet been completed were the workers* club and workers' can- 
teen, although a temporary canteen for two thousand was said 



50 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

to be functioning. Perhaps these amenities were not necessary 
in view of the eight hours of uninterrupted work which was 
the normal shift. The dishevelled and dispirited workers con- 
trasted strongly with their palatial surroundings. The table 
setting might be fine, but they would have to wait for the jam 
until tomorrow. 

In any case, the output appeared to be prodigious. The 
quality did not seem high, but there was immense activity. 
I was told that each day this vast plant produced 100,000 
books, 50,000 magazines, and 50,000 pamphlets, as well as 
5 daily and 15 weekly newspapers, the newspapers having a 
combined circulation of 2,500,000. Some people have ex- 
pressed amazement at these figures. Although I cannot vouch 
for their accuracy, I think it possible that they are correct. 
The Communists are great propagandists; this plant was said 
to do 80 per cent of all the printing in Romania, so that even 
this output would provide only one or two books a person a 
year. Most of the books were school texts or Communist 
works, and all were cheaply printed and bound on automatic 
machinery in very large editions. 

I had been invited to Romania to give four lectures on 
geophysics, and these provided my greatest surprise. The first 
lecture was to be given at the university in the evening. As 
we approached the hall, we saw that the corridor was full of 
people trying to get in. The hall was packed with people, who 
stood up and clapped as we made our way to the front and 
again applauded tumultuously when I had been introduced. 
Although I am a fairly experienced speaker, I had never known 
anything like it I was astounded. My visit had not been tan- 
gibly publicized, and few of them could have heard of me 
anyway; and my topic, mountain-building, could not possibly 
generate such enthusiasm. I realized that these people were 
spontaneously expressing their pleasure at one of their rare 
contacts with the untrammelled West. I spoke with sentence- 



ROMANIA 51 

by-sentence interpretation for nearly an hour and a half, and 
received the same enthusiastic ovation when I had finished. It 
was very moving. 

My visits and lectures in the capital concluded, I set out on 
field trips to see the geology. I had asked to see the Iron Gates 
where the Danube cuts through the Carpathian Mountains, 
and my hosts suggested a drive to Sinaia, Bra|ov-Stalin, and 
Cluj in Transylvania. In spite of the fact that the British Em- 
bassy had told me that the border was closed and that no one 
had been allowed near the Iron Gates for years, I was taken 
there by the very capable geologist who had mapped the re- 
gion before the war. We spent two pleasant days driving and 
walking amid the grand scenery and fascinating geology of this 
classic region. We stayed in the spa on the site of Roman 
baths at Baile Herculane, and examined the ruins of the Ro- 
man fort and bridge across the Danube at Turnu-Severin. A 
Roman road 7 cut like a ledge alongside the river, passes through 
the most precipitous canyons on the Jugoslav side. From across 
the river one can see a great Roman inscription and make out 
the emperor's name, Trajanus. The Romanians made no bones 
about their pride in their Latin origin, which they claimed 
to date from the invasion by Trajan in A.D. 101-105. As they 
pointed out, the name of their country means "Roman," and 
they resent the efforts to make them forget it by changing the 
spelling on new coins to Rominia or Ruminia. Inasmuch as 
they have fought (and often been defeated by) Slavs and 
Turks for eighteen hundred years, and still retain a lan- 
guage which closely resembles Latin, it is probable that Ro- 
manians will continue to distrust the Russians and furtively 
hold their own views. 

At the head of the rapids on the Danube we joined a party 
of Jugoslav and Romanian engineers and cruised in a river 
steamer back through the chasms by which the Danube 
crosses the Carpathians. It was a beautiful trip, and one that 



52 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

few Westerners have made for at least seventeen years. Cau- 
tiously at first, but more affably as the beer circulated, the 
engineers discussed the building of a Danube system to match 
the St. Lawrence sea-way. The plan is a century old but has 
always been held up for political reasons. 

Many powerful tugs and barges of great size snorted up the 
river, flying the flags of all the Communist countries. Some 
were oil tankers, and one was a new Hungarian pleasure ship 
that I supposed was being exported to Russia across the Black 
Sea. 

On the other trip three geologists and an interpreter drove 
me past Ploe^ti, only now recovering from war-time bomb- 
ing, to Sinaia, the mountain resort of kings and princes. The 
white cliffs of the mountains were glorious in the sun, their 
sides bright with golden beech trees and their peaks topped 
with dark green firs. We stopped often to examine the rocks. 
After crossing the old border into Austria-Hungary at Predeal 
in the mountains, we dined in Brasov-Stalin (the first is the 
old name, the other is the new official name, for in keeping 
with the rather grim situation in Romania, Stalin is still offi- 
cially respected) . Then we took the train to Cluj. 

In the capital of Transylvania there are two universities and 
nearby an observatory where scientists were working on a pro- 
gram for the IGY. I was told that I was the first Western scien- 
tist to have visited the observatory in the past seventeen 
years, but that two Russians had been there. With the aid 
of interpreters I delivered two technical lectures on mountain- 
building, to the same wild acclaim as in Bucharest, but I was 
now used to the idea that it was my scarcity value, not my 
oratory, that aroused these displays. 

It would be gratifying to think that the October of 1957 
would forever be associated in the minds of the Romanian 
geophysicists with my paper on orogenesis, but it is certain 
that it will not. It will be remembered as the month of the 



ROMANIA 



53 



launching of the first Russian Sputnik. It caused a tremendous 
to-do. Newspapers, radio, and loud-speakers carried no other 
news. The whole powerful propaganda machine spouted glory 
to the Soviets and the Communist party. Newspaper men de- 
scended upon me in droves demanding a statement. I consid- 
ered my position rather carefully. Had I been in Toronto I 
should in all honesty have praised the great achievement 
loudly, but in Bucharest to do so seemed to me to smack of 
being a "fellow-traveller." I therefore said only that it was "in- 
teresting and what had been expected/' Pressed, I said: "Every- 
thing has gone according to plan." This last secretly delighted 
some of the Romanians, who get a little tired of five-year plans, 
increased production programs, and other Communist plans 
of which they hear so much. Pressed further, I pointed out 
that really I knew nothing about the Sputnik, for I could 
neither read nor understand Romanian and in all the excite- 
ment everyone had forgotten to explain. This was just as 
we were about to begin lunch. Before the meal was over, the 
reporters were back with reams of teletyped news from 
abroad in French and English. They demanded that I read 
them and comment. I read, but I still said: "The Sputnik is 
interesting!" 

Only after fourteen attempts was I left alone. So far as I 
know, two lines in one paper were all that was devoted to my 
entire visit to Romania. 



CHAPTER 6 



THE NEW MOONS 



The Sputnik placed in orbit while I was in Romania was the 
first of two dozen artificial satellites successfully launched by 
the end of 1959. Many people have seen them hurtling across 
the sky at twilight, but not everyone has realized that the 
plan to make them and to exchange the information which 
they gathered was part of the International Geophysical Year. 1 

Many scientists had talked about the idea, and a proposal 
made in 1953 by S. P. Singer of the United States at a con- 
ference at the University of Oxford led to detailed planning. 
On July 29, 1955, President Eisenhower announced that the 
United States Navy had been assigned the task of launching 
Vanguard satellites as part of the IGY program, and soon 
afterwards the Soviet Union said that they would do the same. 
No other nation has yet joined them. 

Looking back, one wonders to what extent American sci- 
entists felt that through satellites they could open paths by 
which to investigate nearby space, and to what extent they 

ir The IGY agreements guaranteed the free exchange of scientific 
observations, including those obtained by artificial satellites. But there 
was never any plan to exchange information about the prime requisite 
for putting satellites into orbit: powerful and accurate rocket motors. 



THENEWMOONS 55 

wished to jolt their military leaders into taking rocket develop- 
ment as seriously as the Soviets were known to be doing. Cer- 
tainly great credit is due to the Soviets for the achievements 
which enabled them to launch the first satellites, and led the 
world to revise its estimate of Russian technical ability. 

In scientific results the Americans and the Soviets are closely 
matched. The advantage of the better launching vehicles and 
larger satellites of the Soviets has been compensated for by 
the greater number of satellites launched by the Americans, 
their superior instrumentation, and their more efficient meth- 
ods of tracking and of recovering data. By skillful design and 
use of miniature electronic components, the Americans have 
packed as many instruments into their smaller satellites as 
have the Soviets into their larger ones. Up to the end of 1959 
the Americans attempted six times as many launchings as 
the Russians. Although half of them failed, the Americans 
still were successful in sixteen cases, against six successful Rus- 
sian attempts. The diversity of orbits thus attained gave the 
Americans a wider sampling of space from which to draw 
conclusions. It was because of this that they were the first 
to recognize the Van Allen belts of intense radiation around 
the earth. This discovery is perhaps the most surprising yet 
made by artificial satellites, though the Russian photographs 
of the far side of the moon are the most sensational. 

By April 12, 1961, when Yuri Gagarin, the first cosmonaut, 
circled the earth, the Russians had launched fourteen arti- 
ficial planets and satellites, of which four still remained aloft. 
The Americans had successfully fired thirty-nine objects into 
space, of which no less than twenty-four were still in orbit 
around the earth or the sun. 

To me, the most exciting fact about the satellite program 
is that the tremendous initial problems of starting the explora- 
tion of space were no more complex or diversified than the 
problems that continued to present themselves as the projects 



56 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

developed. Scientists were faced by results so surprising and so 
unexpected that they had to cope with each problem as it pre- 
sented itself, adapting their instruments and their techniques 
to the unsuspected intricacies of space. 

All satellites have been launched by rockets propelled by 
the same force that causes recoil in guns. A rocket may be 
thought of as a gun which uses the firing of its ammunition 
to propel itself; the gases spouting from its rear are its am- 
munition. To make the recoil powerful, thereby causing the 
rocket to travel far and fast, the weight of the ammunition 
or fuel must be large in relation to the rocket, and the fuel 
must be ejected with the maximum heat and speed. 

Rockets all have the same ancestry. First invented by the 
Chinese as fireworks, military rockets up to 24 pounds in 
weight were used by European armies as artillery early in the 
nineteenth century. Intensive Russian experimentation be- 
gan with the work of Nescherskii and Tsiolkovskii near the 
end of the nineteenth century. Early in this century Robert 
Goddard, an American, greatly improved the design and effi- 
ciency of small rockets. In the 1920*5 Hermann Oberth worked 
out the theory of rocket flight in greater detail, and during 
World War II his ideas were used by the Germans to produce 
the first large rocket the V2 capable of carrying a ton about 
200 miles horizontally, or 100 miles straight up. During the 
fading days of the war both Americans and Russians captured 
scientists who had been employed on this program and con- 
tinued to utilize them and their ideas. Probably all the rockets 
used to launch satellites during the IGY were developments 
oftheV2. 

The principles of launching satellites can be briefly ex- 
plained. As everyone knows, a ball tossed into the air falls 
again at the same place or nearby, according to the direction 
in which it is thrown. This is what simple rockets do. During 
the IGY many were fired to carry instruments up 100 or 200 



THENEWMOONS 57 

miles. If, however, the ball is attached to a string and vigor- 
ously twirled, it does not fall but goes round and round on 
the end of the string. To start with, it must be given a rotary 
motion, which must exceed a minimum speed if the string 
is to be kept taut. A satellite revolves about the earth in ex- 
actly this fashion, for the attraction due to gravity takes the 
place of the string. To place a satellite in orbit, a rocket must 
first propel it above the atmosphere and at the same time im- 
part to it a large and precise speed in a horizontal direction 
so that it neither falls back to earth nor flies away into space. 
The spent rocket-cases, of which there may be several for a 
single satellite, either fall to earth or go into orbit themselves. 
Friction of the air quickly slows a revolving ball unless it is 
continually propelled, but if a satellite is placed in orbit 
above the atmosphere during its initial firing, it will coast 
around the earth on the end of its gravity-string for a long 
time. In outer space, because there is little air to slow the satel- 
lite down, it has no need of a motor, but if it fails to get above 
the atmosphere, or if it gradually loses speed and re-enters the 
air, it will be quickly slowed and fall to earth. 

To place a satellite 100 miles above the earth and accelerate 
it to the required speed of about 18,000 miles an hour hori- 
zontally requires immense effort. The only engines which have 
so far been successful are rocket engines blowing themselves 
along by a blast of white hot gases emitted at tremendous 
speed and pressure from the rear. They resemble airplane jet 
engines, except that in outer space they cannot get air with 
which to burn their fuel and therefore have to carry with them 
liquid oxygen and kerosene. Sometimes other combinations, 
such as benzene and nitric acid, or secret mixtures are used. 

Once the fuel is consumed, the large empty fuel tank and 
the engine become useless encumbrances and are jettisoned. 
Another rocket with a smaller engine and less fuel takes over. 
As many as four of these stages may be fired, each one attached 



58 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

to the nose of its predecessor. The later stages are often little 
more than giant sky-rockets, hollow tubes filled with some 
relatively slow-burning explosive* In the nose of the last stage 
of all is the capsule carrying instruments. In some instances 
the capsule is ejected to orbit by itself; in others the last rocket- 
case retains the payload and is, itself, the satellite. Because 
of these two different techniques, it is difficult to compare 
the weights of satellites, but in all instances the weight of the 
capsule containing the instruments is a very small fraction, 
sometimes only a thousandth part, of the weight of the whole 
rocket at launching. 

Astronomers, who felt a responsibility for keeping track of 
the new moons, suggested a numbering scheme similar to 
that used for comets. It was proposed that each satellite be 
given a name consisting of the year followed by one of the 
letters of the Greek alphabet. Thus the first three satellites 
were called 19570, 1957(3, and 19583. Of course the satellites 
were also known by their popular names: Sputnik I, Sputnik 
II, and Explorer I. 

In some cases satellites and protective covers are ejected 
from the last rocket stage by springs, so that a flock of as 
many as five pieces may spread out surprisingly quickly. These 
parts are numbered in order of brightness; for example, 
1957 a i and 1957 a 2 - 

The design of the rocket vehicles and their satellites is ex- 
tremely intricate, for some have over 100,000 parts. The con- 
trols of many early vehicles were built to function automati- 
cally, but the Explorer and Discoverer series responded to some 
instructions sent from the ground, and the Soviets are be- 
lieved to have been able to correct the course of their Luniks. 
If everything works properly and the launching is successfully 
completed, the small satellite must be followed visually or 
by radio and interrogated. 

In order to track the more important pieces and obtain in- 



THE NEW MOONS 59 

formation from them, complex and widespread systems had to 
be established. Of these, undoubtedly the most extensive is 
the American Moonwatch, a system of amateur astronomer 
teams operating at about one hundred twenty stations in the 
United States and another one hundred twenty throughout the 
rest of the world. At each station, teams watch a segment of 
the meridian in the sky for the passage of satellites across it. 
Since many are too faint to be visible with the naked eye, 
small telescopes are used. Several, pointed at different angles, 
are required to cover the zone. Because satellites are only visi- 
ble at twilight, when the earth and the sky are dark and the 
satellites are lit by the sun, watch need only be kept in the 
morning and evening. The time and the direction of each 
passage are carefully recorded, and the information sent to the 
Astronomical Observatory of the Smithsonian Institution at 
Cambridge, Massachusetts, which is charged with optical 
tracking. This observatory also directs the twelve Baker-Nunn 
camera stations throughout the world, at which huge cameras, 
especially designed for the difficult task of photographing 
these faint, fast-moving objects, fix the satellites precisely in 
time and space. 

Besides these optical methods, the Vanguard Computing 
Centre in Washington is responsible for two other systems 
which gather information from satellites that are transmit- 
ting. The Minitrack stations, of which during the IGY there 
were four along the Pacific coast of South America and others 
in the United States, South Africa, Singapore, and Australia, 
locate the position and height of satellites by radio. More are 
under construction. Another world-wide series of stations 
known as Microlock interrogate satellites to obtain the infor- 
mation they have recorded. From all these observations the 
orbits of satellites are computed and predictions made for fu- 
ture sightings. 

The Americans have also recently announced a new scheme, 



60 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

Tepee, which can record the blast of gases emitted by large 
rockets. Since the radio waves on which this listening system 
depends are reflected around the earth, it may be able even 
to detect launchings on the opposite side of the globe. 

Within Russia the Soviets have both optical and radio track- 
ing systems, and the results of their observations on Rus- 
sian satellites are published regularly in the Bulletin of the In- 
stitute of Theoretical Astronomy. Russian predictions of the 
time of passage of their satellites over foreign observatories 
are available to those interested. Thus, predictions were re- 
ceived throughout 1959 at the University of Toronto observa- 
tory. The distinguished astronomer Mrs. Alia Masevich is in 
charge of the program and has described it at a meeting of 
the American Astronomical Society. 

Finally, several very large radio telescopes with movable 
dish-shaped antennae were modified to locate satellites either 
by radio or by radar devices. The largest of these yet built has 
a dish 250 feet across and is at Jodrell Bank near Manchester, 
England. 

The recitation of such extensive preparations suggests 
that tracking should be complete, but this is by no means 
so, for the problems are immense. In the early days the systems 
did not work well. The batteries on Sputnik II failed less than 
a week after it was launched, perhaps due to overheating by 
sunlight. Because of the distance between ground stations and 
the lack of experience of the operators, only 3 per cent of the 
information broadcast by Explorer I in its first month of life 
was recovered. In contrast, after tape-recorders had been in- 
stalled to act as memories for satellites, 80 per cent of the 
data from the later broadcasts of Explorer III was recovered. 
Again, all traces of the rocket-case of Vanguard I were lost 
from March 17, 1958, to May 6, 1959. It had been thought 
that the rocket-case would have less velocity than the satellite, 



THENEWMOONS 6l 

which it pushed ahead with springs, but apparently the case 
was still firing gently when the satellite was detached and the 
case had the greater speed. As a result, the trackers looked 
for the case at the wrong times. 

Many people ask: Is there an exchange of data? Do the Rus- 
sians really tell us what they discover? The answer in most 
cases is emphatically yes. It is true that there have been cases 
of delay and obscurity on both sides, but these exceptions 
are far fewer than people believe. The remarkable thing is 
not that there is an exchange, but that anyone, in view of the 
difficulties involved, recovers any data worth exchanging. The 
problems of keeping track of several objects, at most only a 
few feet in dimension, which are hurtling through outer space 
at speeds in excess of 18,000 miles an hour and at heights 
greater than 100 miles are so complex that it is remarkable 
how much information has been gathered. The undertaking 
is further complicated because of the unexpected conditions 
encountered in space. Experiments designed to measure one 
supposed property have often found and measured other quite 
different elements. In spite of rivalry, these common problems 
have produced something of a bond among the scientists in- 
volved; considering the difficulties, results have been reported 
fairly quickly. The skill and labour necessary to decipher data 
is illustrated in the American announcement that it would 
take a year to decode all the messages telemetered from fifteen 
experiments performed on Explorer VI during the two months 
its batteries operated. 

That both countries have given correct reports is proved by 
the fact that the partial findings, not fully understood when 
they were reported, have fitted together to give an improved 
and revised picture of outer space. Many of the observations 
do not touch on old theories; but when pieced together they 
suggest entirely new and unsuspected possibilities. 



62 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

SPUTNIKS 

The first family of satellites, and the one to which the great- 
est general interest was attached, was the Sputniks. The im- 
minent birth of the Sputnik was first brought home to me in 
the studios of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation during 
the Toronto meeting of the IUGG, as I participated in a tele- 
vision program about satellites with Mme Troitskaya, Profes- 
sor V. V. Beloussov and Dr. Lloyd Berkner, the chairman of 
the American Space Science Committee. Mme Troitskaya 
cautiously confirmed the statement of the U.S.S.R. Academy 
of Sciences that Russia intended to launch satellites. "Yes/' 
she said, "they will be launched soon, and some will be larger 
than those planned by the Americans/ 7 

A month later, on the evening of October 4, while I was 
in Bucharest, the Soviet ambassador in Washington was giving 
a party to conclude the meeting of United States and Soviet 
scientists who had been discussing the IGY satellite program. 
In the Embassy, Walter Sullivan, science reporter for The 
New York Times, received word from his paper's monitoring 
service: "Radio Moscow is broadcasting that a satellite has 
been successfully placed in orbit/' He ran with his news to 
Dr. Berkner, who got on a chair to announce to the Western 
world, from within the Soviet Embassy in Washington: "The 
Soviet Union has placed an artificial satellite in orbit/ 7 This 
news Soviet sources confirmed a few minutes later. Sullivan 
and Berkner had made the best of a situation which they had 
expected but which to most Americans came as a profound 
shock. The events of the succeeding days were without doubt 
planned by the Russians to increase the impact of their 
achievement. 

Next morning, and daily during the following week, a mul- 
titude of radio sets throughout the world could hear the beep- 
beep-beep emitted by the satellite whenever it passed on its 



THE NEW MOONS 63 

90-minute orbit around the earth. On the other hand, because 
this signal was being broadcast on the amateur band frequen- 
cies of 20 and 40 megacycles and not on the prearranged fre- 
quency of 108 megacycles, the American tracking systems were 
unable to pick up the signals by Minitrack until the night of 
October 5 to 6. For several days the satellite did not cross 
the United States during twilight, and Americans were not 
able to see it. The consternation was immense; and it was not 
much relieved when, on October 9, Sputnik I was first observed 
in North America by a powerful Schmidt camera at the New- 
brook meteor station in Alberta. The next day, at 10.23 hours 
universal time, the satellite was seen in the United States by 
the Moonwatch team at New Haven. 

Sputnik I carried a radio transmitter but few instruments. 
At most, it transmitted information on temperatures within 
the satellite itself, upon which information the performance of 
instruments in future satellites would depend. Like Van- 
guard I, the satellite was spherical and designed to separate 
from the last stage rocket-case. Both satellite and case could 
be faintly seen in the sky. Because drag on the rocket-case 
was greater and because the satellite had been shot ahead 
by springs, the case travelled more slowly. This caused it to 
move in an orbit of smaller radius and paradoxically revolve 
about the earth in less time. The difference was appreciable 
and the casing gained a revolution and lapped the satellite at 
20.24 hours universal time on October 29 when both were 
passing over the Pacific Ocean. By January 10 Sputnik I had 
entered the atmosphere and disintegrated. 

What precisely were Sputnik's effects? The successful 
launching showed that the calculations regarding artificial 
satellites had been correct and opened up vast possibilities for 
the future exploration of space. On the other hand, the im- 
mediate scientific results were not great. The satellite carried 
few instruments, did not orbit far from the earth, and did 



64 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

not stay up long. The operation of its radio indicated that 
the temperature within the satellite was suitable for batteries 
and electronic devices. The distortion of the messages told 
something of the radio properties of the upper atmosphere, 
while the rate of slowing by drag indicated the density of the 
thin air. 

The propaganda effect was immense. Since the Americans 
had proposed launching satellites and had given their inten- 
tions widespread publicity, they could hardly complain when 
the Soviets launched an object which by its visibility and radio 
signals attracted great attention. But in spite of popular feel- 
ing on the subject, the launching of Sputnik I was not a tech- 
nical defeat for the Americans. They had never intended to 
launch a satellite as early as October 1957, and in due course 
they successfully launched many well-instrumented satellites. 
If it was a defeat at all, it was a political defeat, arising from 
failure to appreciate the psychological impact of the first satel- 
lite and failure to support unconventional technical ideas soon 
enough. 

A month later Sputnik II was launched. The design was 
similar except that the rocket-case was not intended to separate 
from the instrumented capsule, which carried a payload six 
times as great as Sputnik I to twice the height. Sputnik II 
carried a small dog, many instruments, and extensive tele- 
metering equipment. Again it was a sensation. For the most 
part it was devoted to the study of space travel. The fact 
that the dog survived the launching and settled down, when 
in orbit, to normal living was our first assurance that creatures 
can survive in a weightless condition and was a preliminary to 
placing a man in orbit and opening the era of space travel. 

Instruments on Sputnik II confirmed that satellites in space 
are kept warm by the sun's radiation. (Indeed it is possible 
that Sputnik IFs batteries failed from overheating.) It was 
shown that no micrometeorites punctured Sputnik II as had 



THE NEW MOONS 65 

been feared, but that cosmic radiation was greater than ex- 
pected. This foreshadowed the later discovery, by the higher- 
flying American satellites, of the Van Allen belts. 

The end of Sputnik II came on April 14, 1958,, at 1.55 hours 
universal time, after it had completed 2,367 revolutions about 
the earth. Its incipient break-up was observed shortly after 
dark as it crossed over New England, a glowing body with a 
faint trail of luminous sparks. The sinking satellite rapidly 
increased in brilliance as it passed the West Indies until it 
appeared as bright as the moon at first quarter. It had a glow- 
ing tail 70 miles long from which globules like minor comets 
kept dropping away. A great number of people on islands and 
ships, including about half the population of Barbados, saw 
this striking object before it was consumed and faded low 
in the air over the Atlantic Ocean northeast of British Guiana. 

Sputnik III was not launched until May 1958, by which 
time three American satellites were up at greater heights. The 
third Soviet satellite was large and impressive. The elongated 
rocket-case as it tumbled across the evening or morning sky 
appeared as a flashing meteor often brighter than Venus. The 
separated satellite was less easily seen but carried a payload of 
more than a ton, including batteries- and instruments for mak- 
ing a dozen experiments, tape recorders for memorizing the 
observations, and radios for telemetering them back to inter- 
rogating stations in the U.S.S.R. A long report on preliminary 
results was issued in October 1958. The air density at a height 
of 166 miles was found to be only one ten billionth of that on 
the surface, but it was, nevertheless, five or ten times what 
had been expected. At that height the atmosphere was found 
to consist of atoms separated rather than joined in pairs as in 
ordinary air. Nitrogen, which forms three quarters of the lower 
atmosphere, was only present to the extent of 5 per cent. The 
temperature was high, and the electric state such that the 
satellite became charged to an electric potential of several 



66 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

volts. Cosmic ray counters analysed the particles coming from 
outer space and confirmed the radiation in the Van Allen belts 
which had been found a few weeks earlier by the first Explorer 
satellites. Other instruments measured the earth's magnetic 
field and electric currents in the upper atmosphere. 

The Soviets launched three Luniks and no Sputniks in 1959, 
and only three Sputniks in 1960; but in the spring of 1961 five 
successful launchings paved the way for Yuri Gagarin's first 
orbit around the earth in 109 minutes on April 12, 1961. 

The Soviet program was well designed to achieve two ob- 
jectives: the placing of a man in orbit and the investigation of 
the moon. Both were legitimate scientific projects, and both 
made splendid propaganda. The United States so far has not 
had such powerful launching rockets, although they are now 
being developed rapidly. Meanwhile, the Americans have 
done a much more thorough job in investigating the proper- 
ties of nearby space and the potentialities of satellites as aids 
to communication, navigation, and weather forecasting. 

VANGUARDS 

When the Americans decided to launch artificial satellites 
for the IGY, the scientists decided to stay clear of existing 
military rockets and design a program of their own: launching- 
rockets, tracking facilities, computers, and all. They hoped in 
this way to remain independent of military security and mili- 
tary requirements and to develop a satellite designed solely for 
the gathering of scientific information. 

The outcome of these fine aspirations was the Vanguard, 
a most elegant instrument. The United States Navy sponsored 
it, under the direction of Dr. J. P. Hagen, but many of the 
ablest scientists in the United States advised on the instrumen- 
tation and its scientific program. It was a scientist's dream of 
a perfect instrument for exploring nearby space. 



THENEWMOONS 67 

Unfortunately, the Vanguard program suffered the usual 
penalty of pioneers and several of the satellites failed to orbit. 
These failures received much excited publicity, which ob- 
scured the many achievements of the men who developed the 
Vanguards. For instance, the basic tracking facilities have 
been used by all other satellite programs; the computers 
evolved for predicting the future orbits of satellites were suc- 
cessful, and the design of the satellites themselves had a wide 
influence on subsequent satellites. Apart from the major con- 
tribution made by very light and compact instrumentation, 
Vanguard I also proved that solar cells can replace electric 
batteries as a source of continuous power and that a reflecting 
paint can successfully control the temperature inside a satel- 
lite. The very light, compact instrumentation has meant a 
lighter load, which in turn has made it possible for Vanguards 
to be placed in higher and hence longer-lived orbits than any 
other satellites. All three of the successful Vanguards are still 
in orbit and are expected to remain aloft for many years. They 
have demonstrated the satellite's remarkable potential for 
mapping the earth and predicting the weather. From the ob- 
servations made on Vanguards earth scientists have been able 
to establish that the earth is not perfectly spherical, but very 
slightly pear-shaped, and that the density of the atmosphere 
at heights of a few hundred miles varies with the seasons and 
with solar phenomena. 

Each of the three Vanguards is different and has made dif- 
ferent specific contributions. Vanguard I is a 6-inch test 
sphere with no room for instruments except a radio transmit- 
ter. This set is still operating with power derived from solar 
batteries charged by sunlight. Careful observations of this 
satellite have revealed much about the density of the thin 
upper atmosphere and about the precise shape of the earth. 

Vanguard II was the first satellite to attempt to televise 
the earth. Two photocells provided a crude picture of the ex- 



68 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

tent of cloud cover, but the satellite unfortunately developed 
an unexpected wobble which made the results almost un- 
decipherable. 

Vanguard III consists of a 2o-inch spherical instrument 
package that bears a 26-inch conical nose of fibre glass carry- 
ing magnetic instruments, to which the third stage rocket-case 
was intentionally left attached to reduce tumbling. The in- 
struments included an extremely sensitive proton-type mag- 
netometer, ion chambers to measure X-rays of i to 10 Ang- 
strom units emitted by the sun, and four methods of detecting 
meteoritic particles. 

EXPLORERS 

As soon as Sputnik I was launched and the extent of its 
success was known, the United States Army was authorized 
to use modified military rockets to launch satellites. By using 
the Jupiter C or Redstone ballistic rocket as first stage, and 
concentric bundles of respectively eleven, five, and one solid- 
fuel Sergeant rockets for subsequent stages, the Army was able 
to place three Explorers in orbit during the first half of 1958. 
It seems probable that this could have been done at least a 
year earlier had the politicians realized the psychological im- 
pact which satellites would have, had the services not been so 
divided by rivalries, had the scientists not been so keen to 
do an elaborate job, and had the security agencies not been so 
opposed to using secret military IRBM's for satellite launch- 
ings. No one, in fact, in the United States appreciated the im- 
portance of the job in time. 

In Explorer I, which was launched in January, the casing of 
the last empty rocket carried 11 pounds of instruments with 
which to measure internal and external temperatures, micro- 
meteorites, and cosmic rays. The rather scanty data gathered 



THENEWMOONS 69 

confirmed the results obtained by Sputnik II that micro- 
meteorites were not as dangerous as had been feared, but that 
cosmic rays were more intense than had been expected. An 
additional complication of significance was that at heights 
greater than those reached by Sputnik II the counters appeared 
to fail. At the time this was attributed to faults arising from 
hasty construction. Explorer II failed to orbit, but better 
counters and a tape-recorder to store information were in- 
stalled in Explorer III. By fortunate mischance this satellite 
reached 1,741 miles at its highest point instead of the 1,270 
intended, and swept within 121 miles of the earth at its low- 
est. It therefore covered a very wide range and disclosed that 
up to a height of 1,000 miles the radiation count was normal, 
but at 1,600 miles the radiation was so high that it was likely 
to be lethal to humans. It was now apparent that the counters 
on the previous satellite had failed not because of a mechanical 
defect but because they were too small to cope with the mag- 
nitude of the task and had become choked. On May i, 1958, 
when announcement was made in Washington of the discov- 
ery of this belt of intense radiation, it was named in honour of 
Dr. James S. Van Allen, who had designed the equipment 
that had disclosed its existence. A fortnight later Sputnik III 
was launched and confirmed the findings of Explorer III. Ex- 
plorer IV was designed particularly to examine this Van Allen 
belt. 

Early in 1959, Pioneers and Luniks, in flights towards the 
moon, showed that there were not one but two of these belts. 
In August 1959, Explorer VI was launched in a large and 
highly elliptical orbit to explore the belts in more detail and 
to discover whether they changed with the sun's activity. So 
that this satellite could monitor the radiation in these belts 
and transmit this and other information for a long time, its 
radios were powered by solar batteries supported on four 



jo I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

vanes giving it the name, "the paddle-wheel satellite." One 
paddle seems not to have opened, and the radio became silent 
after two months. 

Except for its functions, Explorer VI had little in common 
with the earlier Explorers, for it was launched by a United 
States Air Force Thor-Able Intermediate Range Ballistic 
Missile rocket. Instead of being the shell of a Sergeant rocket 
and weighing a few pounds as did the previous Explorers, it 
weighed 142 pounds and had 100,000 components in a 
2-foot spherical container with four 3-foot vanes around it. 

Explorer VII, which was launched October 13, 1959, an< 3 
weighed 91.5 pounds, was designed to make seven measure- 
ments, of which the two most important concerned the radia- 
tion balance of the earth. Our weather is profoundly affected 
by the fact that near the equator the earth receives more heat 
than it radiates, while near the poles it loses more than it re- 
ceives. This lack of balance drives the winds. To learn more 
precisely the nature of the energy received and lost, this satel- 
lite carried three sets of sensors to measure radiation of dif- 
ferent wave-lengths as the satellite swung from 50 north to 
50 south latitudes about the earth. A photocell recorded the 
direction of the sun. Other devices measured the intensity of 
ultra-violet light and short X-rays during solar flares, the in- 
tensity and nature of cosmic rays, and the prevalence of micro- 
meteorites. 



PIONEERS AND SCORE 

When several satellites had been successfully placed in or- 
bit close to the earth, President Eisenhower announced that 
permission had been given for the Air Force to make three at- 
tempts to send a rocket to the moon, and for the Army later 
to make two attempts. The first attempt ended seventy-seven 
seconds after lift-off, in a tremendous explosion caused by 



nEEwooNs 71 

failure of the first-stage engine. On October i, 1958, the whole 
program was taken over by the civilian National Aeronautics 
and Space Administration. Pioneers I and III were then suc- 
cessfully launched and reached distances of 70,700 and 63,- 
580 miles before they fell back to earth. They had not been 
going fast enough to escape the pull of the earth's gravity. Pio- 
neer II failed, but early in 1959 Pioneer IV was placed in orbit 
around the sun as Artificial Planet II. None of these Pioneers 
provided much information about the moon, because the scan- 
ner provided for that purpose on Pioneer IV failed and the 
others did not go far enough. But as we have said, they did es- 
tablish the existence of the second Van Allen belt. 

The last satellite of 1958 was an Atlas ICBM (Intercon- 
tinental Ballistic Missile) fired into orbit by the Advanced 
Research Projects Agency and the United States Air Force. 
It was vastly larger than any previous American satellite; with 
the attached but empty case of the last stage rocket it weighed 
8,750 pounds and was claimed to be the heaviest satellite yet 
launched. No doubt this was true, and it was the first demon- 
stration of the power of American ICBM's. However, Acade- 
mician L. I. Sedov quickly pointed out that the real test was 
the total weight placed in orbit. He claimed that the detached 
rocket-cases of Soviet Sputniks weighed even more, but he did 
not say how much more. The Atlas-Score carried no scientific 
instruments, but it contained a radio transmitter which, when 
interrogated, broadcast a recorded Christmas message from 
President Eisenhower. 

DISCOVERERS 

During 1959 the United States launched a series of six Dis- 
coverer satellites which were designed to test the ejection 
and recovery of capsules and to study environmental condi- 



72 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

orbit as part of a biomedical experiment. Though the Dis- 
coverers were not part of the IGY program, some geophysical 
information was obtained by observing them. During 1960 
this series of launchings was continued and extended, and the 
first capsules were ejected and recovered from orbit. 



LUNIKS 

On January 2, 1959, between the launching of Pioneer III 
and Pioneer IV space probes, Lunik I, or Mechta, was 
launched. Two days later it missed the moon, passing within 
3,700 miles of it and continuing on its way to become the first 
artificial planet to be placed in orbit around the sun. Its 
path is close to that of the earth but outside it and considerably 
more elliptical, with a year of 450 days. The new planetoid has 
a last stage weighing 3,245 pounds, of which 795 pounds is 
payload, so that its launching an outstanding engineering 
feat probably required an initial rocket-thrust of 500,000 
pounds. It is a hopeful sign that this great technical achieve- 
ment received general acclaim. Congratulations were sent to 
the Soviets by the heads of other states as well as by their 
fellow scientists. 

Lunik I carried nine sets of instruments planned to measure 
the earth's and the moon's magnetic fields and the intensity 
and nature of the fast-moving atomic particles of outer space, 
At an altitude of 75,000 miles two pounds of sodium were 
vaporized and ejected from the planetoid in the form of a visi- 
ble flare, which enabled the satellite's position to be precisely 
fixed. This may have been intended as a guide for correcting its 
path towards the moon. If so, it was unsuccessful. After trans- 
mitting information for a few days, it faded forever from sight 
and hearing. It is doubtful whether Lunik I will ever be identi- 
fied again. 

On September 12, 1959, a second similar body was launched 



THENEWMOONS 73 

toward the moon. The Soviets provided information and asked 
the astronomers at Jodrell Bank radio telescope to track the 
space probe. Fortunately they were able to locate it, receive 
its radio signals, and track it up to the moment of impact. 
When the Lunik entered the gravity field of the moon, its 
velocity was observed to increase as it fell towards the moon. 
At the moment of impact, the radio signals ceased. 

Guided by Soviet information, several other astronomers in 
Europe, which was at the time on the side of the earth to- 
wards the moon, were able to observe the impact. G. Fielder 
has collected and published the reports of ten observers who 
were watching on September 13, 1959. The observations 
made with the seven largest instruments are all in agreement 
that at 21 hours 02 minutes 23 seconds universal time, Lu- 
nik II struck the moon close to the centre of its disc at a point 
near Mare Tranquilitatis and the crater Schneckenberg. The 
reports made by observers using the three smallest instru- 
ments show discrepancies of a few seconds in time and some 
uncertainty in location, but these may reasonably be attributed 
to errors arising from less satisfactory equipment. 

Early on the morning of October 4, exactly two years after 
the launching of Sputnik I, Soviet scientists launched Lu- 
nik III, a 6i4-pound satellite with a 3,424-pound rocket-case, 
into an immensely elongated orbit around the moon. About 
six days later, as it swung around between the sun and the 
moon at a distance of only 4,000 miles from the latter, a radio 
message from the earth put in motion the most sophisticated 
display of engineering virtuosity yet attempted in space re- 
search. The timing of the signal and the course of the Lu- 
nik III, which was at that moment on a line between the sun 
and the moon, were such that after one light-sensitive device 
had stabilized the rear end of the Lunik to point at the sun, 
another took over to point the front end of the Lunik directly 
at the fainter moon. Two cameras then started to photograph 



^\ Hu/nboldt Sea 




Diagram of the far side of the moon. Names were sub- 
mitted by the U.S.S.R. Academy of Sciences to the Inter- 
national Astronomical Union. 



the moon with varying exposures on 35 mm film which had 
been shielded from radiation in space. 

The film was automatically developed in the satellite. It was 
fixed, dried, and stored for a few days until the Lunik again 
approached the earth. Television cameras then scanned the 
film and transmitted to earth the first pictures ever seen by 
humans of the far side of the moon. More than a dozen craters 
and dark maria, or seas, were immediately recognized on the 
photographs, and other craters have since been made out, but 
the moon, like the earth, with its land and water hemispheres, 
is not symmetrical in its features. We see the better view, for 



THE NEW MOONS 75 

the face of the moon is turned to us and Lunik photographed 
the back of its bald head. 

On October 18 Lunik III approached again to within 29,- 
ooo miles of the earth. In accordance with predictions made 
in November 1959, by L- L Sedov of the U.S.S.R. at a meet- 
ing of the American Rocket Society held in Washington, it 
followed a highly elliptic orbit about the earth. Perturbations 
due to the attractive influences of the sun and moon caused 
the orbit constantly to change in shape until in April 1960 
the satellite fell to earth. 



ROCKETS 

Once satellites, which can stay aloft for weeks or years, had 
been launched, rockets, whose flight lasts for only a few min- 
utes, might be thought to have lost their value. This is only 
partly true. Satellites disintegrate below a height of 100 miles; 
balloons, which need some air for their support, will not go 
above 20 miles; so rockets remain the only method of ex- 
ploring the belt between. Rockets also can be fired to be in 
precise spots at specific times, a valuable attribute demon- 
strated at the Danger Islands during the eclipse of October 12, 
1958. In addition, records can be recovered from rockets. 
Nothing material was recovered from any satellite until Au- 
gust 1960, but photographs of the earth from great heights 
and packets of film showing the tracks of cosmic rays were 
recovered from rockets before and during the IGY. 

Rockets have the advantage also of being far cheaper and 
simpler than satellites, and their size and cost can be further 
reduced if they are attached to polyethylene balloons and 
raised through the dense lower atmosphere before firing. Such 
a combination is called a rockoon. Rockets so boosted may be 
smaller, carry greater loads, or reach greater heights. 

At least seven countries participated in the IGY rocket pro- 



j6 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

gram. Australia launched rockoons at Woomera. France fired 
Veronica rockets in the Sahara. Japan carried out an extensive 
program of firing Kappa and other rockets and rockoons over 
the northern Sea of Japan. The U.S.S.R. fired over one hun- 
dred rockets from a base in the Franz Joseph Islands in the 
Arctic, from central U.S.S.R., and from Mirny in the Antarc- 
tic. The Russian program was a continuation of previous 
work and involved a wide range of rockets; most were small 
meteorological rockets, but some carried over two tons of ex- 
perimental equipment and test animals to heights of over 
100 miles, from which they were safely recovered by parachute. 
The United Kingdom developed a research rocket, the Sky- 
lark, capable of carrying 150 pounds to a height of 90 miles. 
It is 25 feet long and \ 1 A feet in diameter. These were fired 
from a special launching tower at Woomera, Australia. The 
United States program involved firing over two hundred 
rockets of various rockoon, Aerobee, and Nike types from ships 
in many parts of the world and from four bases in the United 
States and one in Churchill, on Hudson Bay, Canada. Various 
animals were sent aloft to test their physiological reactions 
and later were recovered. Canada assisted in the large Ameri- 
can program at Churchill, chosen because of its location 
within the maximum auroral belt. 



CHAPTER 7 



WHAT 

THE SATELLITES 
REVEALED 



In 1959 Professor James A. Van Allen, head of the physics 
department at the State University of Iowa, wrote of the 
radiation belts around the earth which he discovered and 
which bear his name: "So far, the most interesting and least 
expected result of man's exploration of the immediate vicinity 
of the earth is the discovery that our planet is ringed by a 
region to be exact, two regions of high-energy radiation 
extending many thousands of miles into space. The discovery 
is of course troubling to astronauts; somehow the human body 
will have to be shielded from this radiation, even on a rapid 
transit through the region. But geophysicists, astrophysicists, 
solar astronomers and cosmic-ray physicists are enthralled by 
the fresh implications of these findings. The configuration of 
the region and the radiation it contains bespeak a major 
physical phenomenon involving cosmic rays and solar cor- 
puscles in the vicinity of the earth. This enormous reservoir 



7 8 



IGY : The Year of the New Moons 



of charged particles plays a still-unexplained role as middleman 
in the interaction of earth and sun which is reflected in mag- 
netic storms, in the air glow, and in the beautiful displays of 
the aurora." 

At the beginning of 1958 it was supposed that above a height 
of a few tens of miles the tenuous upper atmosphere of the 
earth was uniform and that most of the time it was approxi- 
mately similar at all latitudes and only diminished in density 
at increasing distances from the earth. It is true that the aurora 




The earth, its inner and outer Van Allen belts of intense 
radiation, and the artificially created and temporary Argus 
shells between them. 

required special explanation and so did certain other phe- 
nomena in radio transmission, but the observed relation of 
these to solar disturbances had led to the general belief that 
these effects were all produced during the bombardment of 
the earth by intermittent blasts of gas from the sun. 

Van Allen's discovery indicates that at all times two belts 
exist in the upper atmosphere. More recent discoveries suggest 
that a third, weaker and more distant, belt may be present. 
All act as reservoirs for more numerous, hotter, and more ac- 
tive gas particles than are present elsewhere. It is believed 



WHAT THE SATELLITES REVEALED 79 

that these gases are held in place because they are trapped by 
the earth's magnetic field, but it is not yet clear why these 
belts exist where they do, and why there are not others. 

The two main belts lie around the equatorial regions of the 
earth, one outside the other as though the earth was a man 
dressed in a rather loose cummerbund with a large barrel 
around him. The gas particles trapped in these belts are not 
static. They dash wildly from pole to pole and back every few 

Lines of force of 
earth's magnetic 
field. 




Diagram illustrating the corkscrew-line paths pursued by 
high-speed electrons in the Van Allen and Argus belts. 

seconds like caged animals trying to escape. They can do this 
without much interference, for at these heights the atmosphere 
is very tenuous, but the energy they carry is great and could 
be fatal to space travellers unless they took off from a polar 
region and so went around one end of the Van Allen belts. 
Each particle follows a corkscrew path within what may be 
thought of as the stave of a barrel. Particles can drift from 
stave to stave, but they escape slowly from the barrel-shaped 
Van Allen belts only at one end or the other. 

These reservoirs are fed, at least in part, by solar winds. 



8o IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

When a blast strikes the reservoirs and disturbs them, they 
overflow at the ends. Some mechanism based upon the excita- 
tion of the outer belts by solar activity appears to promise a 
better means of explaining magnetic storms, aurora, and radio 
blackouts. Failure to appreciate the existence of these reser- 
voirs in the Van Allen belts made earlier explanations of the 
aurora unsatisfactory. 

These belts were not discovered or even suspected until 
satellites and rockets reached them. Because they are high 
and transparent, they could not be detected from the ground. 
Under the circumstances, they were found by chance rather 
than design. Our knowledge of the belts is still fragmentary, 
but indications are that they vary greatly in shape and intensity 
with fluctuations in solar activity. A more precise picture will 
emerge when there has been time to interpret fully the results 
of Explorers VI and VII and of later satellites. 

Although the implications were not understood at the time, 
some evidence for the Van Allen belts had been found earlier 
in the regions where the aurora is at a maximum and where 
the horns of the outer Van Allen belt thrust down into the 
earth's atmosphere until they are only a few score miles above 
the ground. In 1953 scientists from the State University of 
Iowa launched rockoons from United States Coast Guard ves- 
sels off Newfoundland into the maximum auroral belt and 
found that the radiation at a height of 30 miles was much 
more intense than they had encountered elsewhere. Subse- 
quent rocket flights showed that this radiation persisted even 
when there was no aurora, contrary to theories then held. 
In 1957 larger United States rockets were launched, and it was 
found that the temperature of the atmosphere at a height of 
150 to 200 miles was about 3,000 F over Churchill but only 
half that value over White Sands, New Mexico. The rockets 
at Newfoundland and Churchill had, of course, entered the 
horns of the outer Van Allen belt. This discrepancy was not 



WHAT THE SATELLITES REVEALED 81 

understood until the two belts were discovered by Explorer I 
and Pioneer II. 



THE ARGUS EXPERIMENT 

Few discoveries in science are wholly new or independent. 
Many years ago the Scandinavian scientists Carl Stormer and 
H. Alfven had suggested that charged particles might become 
trapped in the earth's magnetic field and would then spiral 
back and forth from one polar region to the other around 
magnetic lines of force. They pointed out that if this were 
true the particles would be reflected at each end, near which 
the radiation would be most intense. To test the validity of 
this speculation, N. Q Christofilos, of the University of Cali- 
fornia, suggested that belts of radiation might be created arti- 
ficially by the detonation at great heights of * small nuclear 
charges. 

The potential geophysical interest and the obvious impor- 
tance of a knowledge of high-altitude nuclear explosions in 
anti-missile defence were reasons enough to undertake the ex- 
periment. It was christened Argus. Three nuclear devices 
were fired from the U.S.S. Norton Sound at a height of 300 
miles over the south Atlantic Ocean in August and September 
1958. Explorer IV was aloft at this time to monitor the re- 
sults. To collect further observations, a number of high-alti- 
tude rockets were launched from key locations along the At- 
lantic coast of North America. The experiment was a great 
success. The particles generated by each explosion spread out 
to form zones of radiation like the Van Allen belts, but smaller 
and weaker than either of the two natural belts and located 
between them. These artificial zones were called the Argus 
shells. Immediately after the explosions the shells were re- 
corded, as anticipated, by Explorer IV, which reported sharp 
peaks of radiation on every subsequent passage through the 



8z IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

shells. No such peaks had been recorded before or have been 
since. 

The shells slowly faded in intensity but were recorded until 
Explorer IV's batteries failed on September 21, and again 
feebly by Pioneer III on December 6, but none was detected 
in March 1959 by Pioneer IV. All the electrons created by 
the explosion had leaked away. Although the charged parti- 
cles in the Argus shells were trapped by the same magnetic 
field as those in the Van Allen belts above and below them, 
they slowly dispersed because they lay in a region where they 
were not replenished by natural processes. 

Just as auroral, magnetic, and radio effects are particularly 
strong in maximum auroral belts where the horns of the outer 
Van Allen belt come closest to the earth, so it was antici- 
pated that there would be horns of similar kind in Argus shells. 
This expectation was admirably fulfilled. When the explosions 
took place, electrons, guided by the earth's magnetic field, 
raced along corkscrew paths aligned like barrel staves about 
the earth. At the northern end they were reflected back. 
Slowly they spread out sideways to complete a barrel-shaped 
"belt of radiation around the globe. Overhead, immediately 
after each explosion, a colourful aurora formed in the sky. At 
the opposite, or conjugate, point in the northern hemisphere 
near the Azores a brilliant auroral display was observed from 
aboard the U.S.S. Albemarle, which had been sent to keep 
watch. This artificially created aurora started a few minutes 
after the distant detonation of Argus III and lasted for several 
-minutes. Similarly, electro-magnetic disturbances and fading 
of radio waves were observed in both the launching and the 
conjugate areas. 

To make additional measurements of the radiation in Ar- 
gus shells, a series of nineteen high-altitude rockets carrying 
.counters were fired to heights of up to 300 miles over Florida, 



WHAT THE SATELLITES REVEALED 83 

Virginia, and Puerto Rico. As these passed through the shells 
of Argus radiation, they detected intensities as much as 100,- 
ooo times normal. It was found that each explosion created 
a separate thin sheet of radiation shaped like a concentric 
barrel about the earth between the outer and inner Van Allen 
belts. Each Argus shell was about 13 miles thick, but the 
second and third Argus shells overlapped each other. 

The shells remained constant in position and thickness 
for a hundred hours, during which time every electron made 
approximately one million trips between the two polar re- 
gions. This provided information about the stability of the 
earth's magnetic field, while the rate of decay and the fact 
that the shells did not thicken or diffuse suggest that the elec- 
trons are chiefly lost by scattering into the atmosphere near the 
ends of their paths where they are reflected back and forth 
in the denser atmosphere near the ground. 

MICROMETEORITES 

Before any satellites had been launched, great concern was 
felt lest space be so full of tiny, high-speed micrometeorites 
that vehicles would be damaged and any future space travellers 
killed. The particles, which become visible as meteors or shoot- 
ing stars when they reach the atmosphere, were known to travel 
at speeds sometimes exceeding 25,000 miles an hour relative 
to the earth, and the worst was feared of them. To study these 
effects, many satellites carried microphones or fine wires 
to record hits. As it turned out, the situation is not serious. 
One gauge on Explorer I was hit only once during a month 
and that by a speck of dust less than one thousandth of an 
inch in diameter. Apparently no satellite has been put out of 
action by hits. It is radiation, not meteorites, which is likely 
to prove dangerous to space travellers. 



84 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

GROUND OBSERVATION OF SATELLITES 

The studies which can most surely be made with all satel- 
lites, whether instrumented or not, are those depending solely 
upon ground observation. For example, much can be discov- 
ered about the upper atmosphere by accurately timing the 
satellites. At heights of hundreds of miles the atmosphere is 
so thin that it would be regarded as a good vacuum in a 
laboratory, but even thin air slows satellites so that their orbit 
contracts and their period of revolution decreases. 

The orbital period of a satellite can be measured with an 
accuracy of a small fraction of a second. Thus, the rate at 
which drag of the thin upper air reduces the speed of a satel- 
lite can be precisely determined. Using American and British 
observations of the orbital period of fifteen satellites and pub- 
lished figures for the size and weight of satellites, D. G. King- 
Hele has published estimates of the density of the atmosphere 
at heights of from 100 to 500 miles. The densities, now known 
accurately for the first time, have turned out to be from five 
to fifteen times greater than had been previously believed. 
King-Hele considers that variations due to latitude and season 
are small, but that the effect of the sun-spot cycle may be 
greater than expected. This information is important for in- 
struments and essential for the safety of living animal or hu- 
man passengers. 

Luigi Jacchia, of the Smithsonian Astrophysical Observa- 
tory, believes that particles shot from the sun during solar flares 
increase the density of the earth's upper atmosphere and that 
this increase in density produced noticeable slowing of Van- 
guard I and Sputnik III one or two days after major flares 
were observed. He and Robert Jastrow have studied differ- 
ences in the behaviour of satellites which swing far enough 
north and south to enter the ends of the outer Van Allen 
belt and satellites which do not. They conclude that the ac- 



WHAT THE SATELLITES REVEALED 85 

tivity of the solar particles trapped within the belts increases 
the temperatures in these sections of the upper atmosphere. 
The activity and heat are most intense in the horns of the 
belts, at about 65 miles above the earth, where the particles 
are bounced back to continue their endless, jostling journey. 
Jastrow suggests that this extra energy may be the cause of 
the aurora, which is most common at that height and in the 
latitudes of the horns of the Van Allen belts. He points out 
that if this conjecture is true the Van Allen belts should con- 
tain more particles in the spring and fall, when the aurora is 
most prevalent. When the data from Explorers VI and VII 
have been deciphered, this matter should be settled. 

IS THE EARTH PEAR-SHAPED? 

It has been long known that the earth has the shape of a 
slightly flattened sphere with an equatorial diameter 13 miles 
longer than the polar diameter. From observations made on 
Vanguard I, J. A. O'Keefe concluded that the north pole is 
about 1 5 yards farther from the centre of the earth than the 
south pole. He also suggested a slight neck around the north 
pole and a bulge a few yards thick in the southern hemisphere; 
thus, in effect, the earth has a very slightly pear-shaped figure. 
It has also been suggested that the equator is not perfectly 
circular but very slightly elliptical. 

One may well wonder how O'Keefe discovered these irregu- 
larities. 

In the hope of simplifying a rather complicated explana- 
tion, let us consider the earth as an eccentric matron who has 
a hat with an elliptical brim. Her eccentricity demands that 
she keep rotating her hat and swivelling it round and round 
on her head, always at the nice angle of 35 degrees. Sometimes 
the wide part of the brim is well down over her nose; some- 
times high over her left ear; sometimes low over her right; 



86 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

sometimes well up on the back of her head; sometimes low 
on the nape of her neck. The edge of the hat brim corre- 
sponds to the orbit of a satellite. 

As the satellite swings round and round, irregularities in 
the earth cause minute changes in the shape of its orbit. At 
all times the satellite is most affected by the parts of the earth 
nearest to it. The timing of the orbital period is so precise 
and the readings of its position are so delicate that minute 
variations can be detected. By carefully tabulating these small 
discrepancies, O'Keefe and other scientists have been able to 
plot the bulges and depressions on the earth's surface. 

O'Keefe and his colleagues believe that the earth must be 
inherently very strong to support its persistent irregularities. 
Whether the earth has permanent strength or whether it flows 
slowly to adjust itself to large forces is a question that has been 
much debated. I am inclined to think that O'Keefe's observa- 
tion that the earth is slightly pear-shaped is correct, but I do 
not accept his conclusion that the earth is permanently 
strong. For the earth to depart from a spheroidal shape it must 
have been pressed inwards in Antarctica and in a ring through 
Europe, Siberia, and Canada; these are precisely the places 
where great loads of glacial ice were placed on the earth dur- 
ing the recent ice age. These loads depressed the earth and 
caused its present shape. But the earth is now observed to 
be rising in those places, and I think that it is in the process 
of slowly flowing back to a spheroid shape. Rather than be- 
ing permanently strong, the earth is weak and malleable. 

OTHER OBSERVATIONS FROM 
SATELLITES 

A great deal more could be written about satellite pro- 
grams, but most of this would consist of plans and intended 
programs and partial accounts of results. From what has been 



W HAT THE SATELLITES REVEALED 87 

said it will be apparent that nearly half the satellites placed in 
orbit by the end of 1959 had few instruments or else produced 
few results. Much more sophisticated models have been 
launched since the end of 1959, but there has not been time 
for the results to be fully reduced and published. This is not 
surprising. What is astonishing is how much has already been 
disclosed. 

In future we can expect satellites and space probes to ex- 
plore the solar system, measuring the magnetic fields and Van 
Allen belts around other planets and bringing back photo- 
graphs of them. They can be expected to televise back to earth 
a complete picture of the whole world's cloud cover. They will 
supplement our present sparse weather observations over the 
oceans and polar regions. Other satellites will relay communi- 
cation and navigation messages all over the world. And of 
course many men, but not perhaps you and I, are anxious to 
get into space. Some will probably lose their lives and remain 
there, riding the solar wind and the cosmic rays to all eternity. 



CHAPTER 8 



COSMIC RAYS 



Rockets and satellites have been essential tools in the study 
of radiation in outer space. Their value lies in their ability to 
carry instruments into that radiation before it has been ab- 
sorbed or altered by the earth's atmosphere. I have already 
mentioned that the radiation emitted by the sun is of two 
kinds: electro-magnetic waves, like light and heat, and cor- 
puscular radiation, including blasts of gases from solar flares. 
These blasts are clouds or swarms of electrons, atoms, and 
fragments of atoms travelling at speeds of a few hundred miles 
every second. Cosmic rays are another form of corpuscular ra- 
diation in which the fragments of atoms travel alone or in 
smaller "showers" with even greater energies and higher 
speeds, reaching as much as tens of thousands of miles a sec- 
ond. It is possible, but not yet certain, that stellar blasts and 
cosmic rays may form a continuous series. Usually the two 
types are easily distinguished, however, and most cosmic 
rays certainly do not come from our sun. 

Cosmic rays were first recognized in 1911 by Victor Franz 
Hess. He noticed the universal presence of a powerful radia- 
tion, the intensity of which increased rapidly with height, as 



COSMICRAYS 89 

shown by instruments sent up in balloons. It seemed to be 
unaffected by solar or terrestrial changes. Because Hess con- 
cluded that this radiation came from outer space, he named 
it cosmic rays, although he had little idea of its true nature. 

Whence come these projectiles? What can their unrivalled 
energy tell us about the nature of mass and energy? What ef- 
fect do they have on man? Are they responsible for evolution? 
Ten years ago these questions had not been answered. In- 
deed, the nature of cosmic rays was very imperfectly under- 
stood. In the intervening time much has been discovered, but 
so much more needs to be known that these are still leading 
questions in physics today. Since the occurrence of cosmic 
rays is a world-wide, natural phenomenon, it was natural 
that their investigation should have formed one program of 
thelGY. 

Cosmic rays are fragments of atoms which have been bat- 
tered by their impulsive rush through space. To understand 
these free-wheeling offspring, we have to recall the basic struc- 
ture of their atomic parents. Atoms are designed after the fash- 
ion of inconceivably small solar systems, with a nucleus for 
a sun and one or more electrons for planets. Altogether some 
90 elements have been discovered in nature, and a dozen more 
have been made artificially. They differ from one another in 
a simple and rather elegant manner. 

Hydrogen, the lightest and simplest element, has one planet- 
ary electron. Succeeding elements helium, lithium, and so 
on have two, three, and successively more electrons up to 
the ninety-second and heaviest natural element, uranium, 
which has 92 electrons. Eleven artificially created elements 
continue the sequence from neptunium, with 93 electrons, 
through plutonium, with 94, and so on to lawrencium, with 
103. All 103 elements are known. None is missing; no others 
exist. It is all beautifully regular. 

The planetary electrons are all identical. They are small, 



Atomic fragments 



Complete atoms 



J 

-r- 

E. 



03 



elect 



ron 




proton 

neutron 
(unstable) 



stripped 

helium 

nucleus 



\ ordinary 
/ hydrog'en H 



\ heavy 

/ hydrogen H 



4^ / x tritium 

3 ( <$> } hydromH B 

1 (unstable; 



\ ordinary 
helium He 4 



Diagram of the chief fundamental particles and of the 
simplest atoms made of them. Cosmic rays are very high 
speed atoms and atomic fragments like those illustrated. 



light in weight, mobile, and carry one unit of negative electric 
charge. 

Nuclei are larger and more complex. The simplest is that 
of the hydrogen atom and is called a proton. The proton 
weighs as much as 1,836 electrons and is therefore less mobile. 
It carries a small positive electric charge, exactly equal to the 
negative electric charge of the electron. A hydrogen atom is 
made up of one proton and one electron. All other elements 
have heavier and hence more complex nuclei to hold their 
larger numbers of planetary electrons in control. Each nucleus 
has the same number of protons as the element has planetary 
electrons one, as I have said, for hydrogen, two for helium, 
three for lithium, and so on but the nuclei also have variable 



C O S M I C R A Y S 91 

numbers of uncharged particles, called neutrons, which can- 
not exist alone. These three particles electrons, protons, and 
neutrons make up all ordinary matter. Having equal num- 
bers of negative electrons and positive protons, complete 
atoms have no charge and therefore are not affected by elec- 
tric and magnetic fields. 

If an atom is abused, as by collision with other atoms, it can 
be damaged. Some or all of the planetary electrons can be 
knocked off and perhaps later recaptured. This happens easily 
and the essential nature of the element is unaltered, except 
that a nucleus stripped of some of its negative electrons ac- 
quires a positive charge which makes it sensitive to magnetic 
and electric fields. Primary cosmic rays are chiefly single 
stripped nuclei travelling alone at colossal speeds through 
space. 

If, however, a cosmic-ray nucleus travelling at high speed 
collides with another such nucleus, the impact will disrupt 
both, changing them to other elements by processes which are 
not easily reversed. The speed at which cosmic rays travel and 
the violence of their occasional collisions mean that they are 
always charged and sensitive to electric and magnetic fields; 
but since they are travelling very fast, they are not easily de- 
flected from their courses. 

Of every hundred cosmic rays about eighty-five are protons 
(stripped hydrogen nuclei), fourteen are stripped helium nu- 
clei, and the remaining one may be the nucleus of any other 
element, most likely one of the lighter elements such as lith- 
ium, boron, or carbon. Some cosmic rays may be single elec- 
trons or even a pulse of X-rays, but this is still under debate. 
Thus, we see that there are several dozen kinds of primary 
cosmic-ray particles and that some are much more common 
than others. They are made of the same material as the ordi- 
nary tilings about us, and only become cosmic rays by virtue 



92 I G Y : The Year of the Ng-w Moons 

of the tremendous speed and energy with which they arrive, 
one at a time, individual fragments of atoms from outer space. 

Most cosmic-ray particles have about the same speed and 
energy as is given artificially to similar particles by cyclotrons 
and other high-energy machines in physics laboratories. Such 
energies are described as being a few billion electron volts 
(Bev). 

Every second or so at the top of the earth's atmosphere a 
cosmic-ray particle with an energy of a few Bev hits an area as 
big as one's thumbnail. Faster and more energetic cosmic rays 
exist, but they are progressively rarer. An area of a square yard 
is hit about once a minute by a particle with an energy of a 
thousand Bev, and about once a month by a cosmic ray with 
an energy of a million Bev. This is about the largest practical 
size for a counter and the slowest practical rate at which to 
operate them, but one million Bev is by no means the greatest 
energy of cosmic rays. At rare intervals one arrives with an en- 
ergy of over one billion Bev (a billion billion electron volts) . 
Such cosmic rays are so infrequent that one would hit a sys- 
tem of counters as large as a football stadium only once or 
twice a year. These strong cosmic rays are by far the most en- 
ergetic things we know. Weight for weight, they completely 
dwarf atomic explosions. Even more powerful cosmic rays may 
exist, and a search is being conducted to try to discover 
whether there is an upper limit to their energy. 

So far we have been discussing the nature of cosmic rays 
winging their solitary way as single nuclei through outer space. 
Mercurial messengers with speeds rivalling that of light itself, 
they are the only corporeal bodies to travel from star to star 
throughout the galaxy. 

When these primary cosmic rays reach the atmosphere, they 
strike other atoms and break them to fragments, giving rise to 
a variety of effects, depending upon their initial speed. It has 
only been by means of studies from high-flying balloons near 



Primary 
Cosmic Ray 




Atmosphere 



Secondaries 



Earth 



Shower development starting with the collision of a pri- 
mary cosmic-ray particle with a nucleus and proceeding by 
further collisions and by decay of short-lived radioactive 
fragments. Most of the secondary particles reaching the 
ground are electrons. 



the top of the atmosphere and from rockets and satellites 
above it that we have discovered the nature of primary cosmic 
rays. 

When a primary cosmic-ray particle strikes the atmosphere, 
its first and commonest effect is to knock planetary electrons 
off other atoms and so leave a trail of charged electrons and 
nuclei along its path. Physicists have devised an ingenious 
method of tracing these paths. The high-flying balloons and 
rockets carry with them stacks of photographic plates covered 
with very thick layers of emulsion. When a charged particle 
passes through a stack of plates, it exposes the successive layers 
of emulsion in its path and leaves a photographic record of its 



94 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

course. This is exactly the same principle used by the ballis- 
tics expert in a murder mystery; he prowls around the library 
where the body lies, tracing the course of a bullet that has 
bored its way through a pile of books. By marking the path of 
the bullet, he can tell the point from which it was fired and the 
direction in which it was travelling. 

High-flying balloons eventually return to earth and the rec- 
ords they carry can be recovered. No capsules were recovered 
from the satellites until after the IGY, but their counters were 
designed to transmit a signal to earth each time a satellite was 
struck by a cosmic ray, thus recording the number of hits. 

Eventually a cosmic-ray nucleus may hit the nucleus of an- 
other atom, and this Is likely to disrupt both. The effects on 
ordinary cosmic rays of a few Bev are like the interactions on a 
billiard table. One or both nuclei may be broken, producing a 
shower of their constituent fragments electrons, neutrons, 
smaller nuclei, and X-rays. Similar phenomena can be repro- 
duced in large cyclotrons and other atom-smashing machines 
in physics laboratories. 

Such collisions are most numerous at a height of about 10 
miles above the earth. Since low-energy fragments are ab- 
sorbed before they reach the ground, balloons must be dis- 
patched to that height to study weak cosmic rays. 

Balloons are not so necessary for the study of high-energy 
rays, which produce more exciting results (these cannot be 
duplicated in the laboratory). Each of these atoms imparts so 
much energy to the fragments created by the collisions that the 
fragments surge on, causing billions of secondary collisions. 
The resulting particles form a cone-shaped spray, or shower, 
which expands as more and more collisions take place. 

When the particles are travelling at nearly the speed of light, 
collisions may change them into bursts of high-energy waves, 
which may later reappear as new particles of matter called 
mesons. These are between electrons and protons in mass 



COSMIC RAYS 



95 



and, although short-lived, are highly penetrating and often 
reach sea level. Such showers of billions of secondary cosmic 
rays and electrons, though rare, may cover an area of a square 
mile by the time they reach the surface of the earth. 

The deepest interest is attached to the primary cosmic rays 
which have the greatest energy. They are immensely rare, 
and if they reached sea level without colliding we would need 
counters as large as football fields to detect them. But be- 




Shower of secondary cosmic rays striking an array of count- 
ers on the ground in an oblique direction, 

cause they produce showers of atomic fragments, this is not 
necessary. Instead, several counters of normal size are spread 
over a large area. A big shower, from a really energetic primary 
cosmic ray, may simultaneously trigger all the counters scat- 
tered over several acres, or even several square miles. The di- 
rection of incidence of each ray can be measured electroni- 
cally by noting the difference in time of arrival at each counter. 
Weak cosmic rays produce small showers that only trigger one 
or two counters* 



96 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

In the spring of 1960 1 visited a spread of cosmic-ray counters 
in Bolivia. A few miles from the highest commercial airport 
in the world, at La Paz, instrument shelters, like little chicken 
coops, were scattered over the desolate altiplano at a height of 
16,000 feet. 

The sun has been observed to affect cosmic rays. The effects 
are of three kinds. There are small variations associated with 
the rotation of the sun, small decreases after heavy magnetic 
storms, and increases of cosmic-ray activity of as much as two 
hundred and fifty times during some large solar flares. The 
smaller variations are both probably due to deflections of cos- 
mic rays through changes in the magnetic fields caused by solar 
wind, and the large variations are almost certainly the result 
of the emission of bursts of cosmic rays from the sun. 

Large cosmic-ray increases due to solar flares have been ob- 
served on these occasions: 

28 February *94 2 

7 March 1942 

26 February 1946 

19 November *949 
23 February 1956 

4 May 1960 

12 November 1960 

15 November 1960 

20 November 1960 

and it was a matter of great disappointment that none occurred 
during the IGY. The cosmic rays coming from the sun during 
these bursts are of low energy and may be but peak occurrences 
of normal solar emissions. The rarity of these outbursts from 
the sun and their relatively feeble nature show that the sun is 
not the normal source of cosmic rays, which arrive continu- 
ously and uniformly from every direction. The source of most 
cosmic rays must be farther out in space. 



COSMIC RAYS 97 

The rays are indeed cosmic. Two theories have been sug- 
gested for their origin in space. One is that they are created 
during explosions of whole stars, rare and spectacular events, 
of which the Star of Bethlehem may have been the most fa- 
mous example. The formation of the Crab nebula was the re- 
sult of a super-nova burst in A.D. 1054. If super-nova explosions 
create cosmic rays, more of them should come from the direc- 
tions in which stars are most numerous, because where there 
are more stars there will be more chances for super-nova explo- 
sions. One such direction is the plane of the Milky Way. The 
other theory, suggested by the late Enrico Fermi, is that cos- 
mic rays originate with low energies in stellar bursts, like those 
observed on the sun, and that the cosmic rays are accelerated 
to greater energies by the action of the galaxy's magnetic field 
exerted on peripatetic particles during vast aeons of time. 

If this problem could be resolved, we would know a little 
more about the nature of the universe. But before we can un- 
derstand the attempts being made to determine which of these 
theories is more likely to be correct, we must consider the effect 
of magnetic fields on cosmic rays. Being charged particles, cos- 
mic rays tend to be deflected by magnetic fields and to follow 
them, whether the fields are those of the earth, the sun, or the 
whole galaxy. Two opposing influences determine the extent of 
the deflection. The stronger the magnetic field, the greater the 
deflecting influence; but the faster a particle is moving, the less 
any particular field will bend it. 

Consider first the influence of the earth's magnetic field on 
cosmic rays. The earth is a large magnet whose lines of force 
bend inwards to each pole, and above the equator lie parallel 
with the earth's surface. Cosmic-ray particles can follow the di- 
rection of the earth's magnetic field to the poles without being 
deflected, but cannot reach other latitudes without crossing 
the field and undergoing at least some deflection. The extent to 
which a field succeeds in deflecting particles depends on their 



The earth's magnetic field. 

speed. Particles, like automobiles being driven around a sharp 
bend in a highway, cannot make the bend if they are going too 
fast, but keep straight on and go off the road. Thus, only fast 
cosmic rays can burst through the magnetic field and reach the 
equatorial regions, but all cosmic rays can follow the lines of 
the field and reach the polar regions. 

A study of the energy of cosmic rays received at different lati- 
tudes makes it possible to plot a diagram of the magnetic field 
in space around the earth. During the IGY ships and airplanes 
equipped with counters cruised from the Arctic to the Antarc- 
tic to do this. As had been suspected, the picture they obtained 



COSMIC RAYS 



99 



showed that the earth's magnetic field is not regular, but dis- 
torted. Not only are the magnetic poles in different places from 
the true poles, but they are not opposite one another, and the 
field in space over them is crooked. 

During the last sun-spot maximum the average value of 
cosmic-ray intensity decreased all over the world. A long series 
of observations by S. E. Forbush of the Carnegie Institution of 
Washington, which has now extended through two complete 
sun-spot cycles, shows that average cosmic-ray intensity varies 
in an eleven-year cycle, that the two cycles are out of phase, 

Extra 

Galactic 

Space 




Origin 



Sun 



Cross-section of our galaxy, illustrating the extremely 
crooked path of a normal cosmic ray, which is readily de- 
flected by the magnetic fields of stars, and the nearly 
straight path of a high-energy cosmic ray. 

and that cosmic-ray intensity decreases as solar activity in- 
creases. Since cosmic rays are not normally produced by the 
sun, decreases in intensity must be caused by more effective 
magnetic shielding. In other words, cosmic rays are a means of 
studying changes in the sun's magnetic field and determining 
the effects of increases in solar wind during periods of high 
solar activity. 

Finally, still seeking the origin of cosmic rays, we turn to 
the galaxy itself. Like other magnetic fields, that of the galaxy 
tends to deflect cosmic rays; but the more energetic a particle 



ioo I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

is, the less it will be deflected the stiffer its path. The galaxy 
is so big that most cosmic rays wander through it on paths like 
corkscrews, so that we cannot tell from what direction they 
started. Fortunately, those rare cosmic rays with energies of 
over a billion billion electron volts have paths so stiff that they 
are not appreciably deflected from their course by galactic mag- 
netic fields. Thus, strong cosmic rays should point directly to 
their source. If cosmic rays are formed in super-novae, the 
strongest rays should appear to be coming directly from them. 
But if Fermi's theory is correct, once cosmic rays achieve this 
stiffness they travel right out of the galaxy in which they origi- 
nate. Any cosmic rays of greater energy, therefore, are likely to 
have reached us from galaxies other than our own. 

This suggests that a study of the directions from which the 
most energetic cosmic rays come might provide a means of de- 
termining their mode of origin. Bruno Rossi, an Italian who 
like Fermi fled from Mussolini to the United States, built sta- 
tions for observing cosmic rays in the United States, India, and 
Bolivia. In 1960 he announced that a cosmic ray more ener- 
getic than any previously recorded had been observed and that 
he considered it to have come from a source outside our galaxy. 
It is the only atom of matter so far reported to have reached 
the earth from a galaxy other than our own Milky Way. 

Another way of tackling this problem is to try to determine 
the average age of cosmic rays. Their age would give us a clue 
to their probable origin, for cosmic rays coming directly from 
explosions of super-novae would be far younger than those 
which had wandered through the universe for a vast time col- 
lecting energy. Some idea of age may be obtained by consid- 
ering the composition of cosmic rays. Old rays can be expected 
to have suffered many collisions, and collisions tend to break up 
.large nuclei, like iron, into several smaller nuclei, such as lith- 
ium. H. S. W. Massey and R. L. Boyd, from measurements of 
the abundance of light nuclei and the scarcity of heavy nuclei, 



COSMIC RAYS 101 

have suggested ages of a few million years. This would also in- 
dicate that many cosmic rays gather energy slowly and are not 
a result of large stellar explosions. The counters in Sputnik III 
which separated very heavy nuclei from the rest found that 
they constituted only 0.03 per cent. 

Still another approach to this fascinating problem springs 
from radioastronomy. The Crab nebula and other super-novae 
have been found to emit strong radio noise. It seems likely that 
the radio noise is due to the rapid movement of free electrons 
in a magnetic field. This makes it probable that super-novae 
are the sources of some cosmic rays. 

Perhaps both theories of origin are correct. If some rays are 
created by stellar explosions, an interesting corollary follows. 
Throughout historical time three super-nova explosions have 
been recorded for certain within a distance of 7,000 light years 
of the earth. These occurred in A.D. 1054, 1572, and 1604. 
There is some evidence in the Star of Bethlehem and in Greek 
records of two earlier explosions. It is thus reasonable to be- 
lieve that every few hundred million years a star may explode 
very close to the solar system and envelop it for many years in 
a cloud of cosmic rays of heightened intensity. Such a bom- 
bardment hammering living creatures would certainly have af- 
fected the genes by which the characteristics of different forms 
of life are transmitted. This could have produced a burst of ac- 
celerated evolution. The parallels between this possibility and 
the effects of radiation due to atomic explosions are another 
reason to warrant their active investigation. 

Living processes are affected by cosmic rays in another way. 
Interactions of cosmic rays with the atmosphere constantly 
produce several varieties of radioactive nuclei. The best known 
is carbon-i4 (a radioactive isotope or variety of carbon, most 
of which is non-radioactive) . All living creatures constantly ab- 
sorb this radioactive carbon as carbon dioxide from the atmos- 
phere and water, and its decay creates internal radioactive 



102 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

bombardments within us all feeble, yet capable of causing 
evolutionary changes. 

The existence of this radioactive carbon in living matter pro- 
vides a valuable tool for archaeologists. Accurate counting 
shows that in all living matter the radioactivity is the same as 
in the atmosphere, but with death breathing stops, and so does 
exchange with the atmosphere. The radioactivity of the atmos- 
phere is constantly renewed but not the radioactivity in dead 
creatures. This decreases as the carbon-i4 decays, until after 
40,000 years it has essentially all disappeared. Thus, a count of 
the amount of radioactivity in any piece of formerly living mat- 
ter, be it wood, shell, bone, or mummified flesh, can be used to 
estimate its age. If it has as much radioactivity as living mat- 
ter, it is young; if it has no radioactivity, it is 40,000 years old 
or more; if it has an intermediate amount, its age is less than 
40,000 years and can be accurately estimated. 



CHAPTER 9 



THE NORTH 
MAGNETIC POLE 



JUNE 1958 

In June the Canadian Government invited a party of Cana- 
dian and American scientists to fly to the Arctic to inspect geo- 
physical stations and to see the remote and desolate places 
along the margin of the Arctic Sea which were being inten- 
sively surveyed for the first time. After breakfast in Ottawa we 
took off through warm spring rain and flew in cloud for many 
hours until we sighted the barren rock hills of Baffin Island. 
Along the coast, winter drifts were melting to spread pools of 
light-blue water and muddy stains over fast sea ice. 

We landed on the airfield at Frobisher Bay, where every 
night several airplanes stop to refuel on their flights between 
Europe and western North America. Frobisher Bay is an un- 
distinguished monument to expediency, a dingy collection of 
wartime huts and hangars with later out-croppings of tempo- 
rary buildings thrown up under the sudden necessity of provid- 
ing radar lines in the Arctic. It mushroomed through the tun- 
dra,, without benefit of the niceties of town planning, to fill an 
urgent need. 



104 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

We had tea in a large waiting room built for the trans- 
Atlantic passengers and then drove 10 miles in an enclosed 
jeep to another settlement, new and of very different appear- 
ance. It was a village of wooden houses, small and gaily 
painted, among which a dozen Eskimo children in parkas were 
playing. They and their parents were all going to school, for the 
whole community had been uprooted and their life was being 
transformed. They had always hunted for a living, but their 
increasing population, the dearth of animals to hunt, and the 
possibility of earning better livelihoods elsewhere had forced a 
change. Parents were being trained to use their considerable 
natural ability to carve soapstone and ivory, while the children 
went to conventional schools to be equipped to run the airport 
eventually. Until their lack of knowledge of English (inevita- 
ble among nomadic hunters ) had been overcome and they had 
grown accustomed to a settled life, they were being deliber- 
ately kept apart from the airbase. I had met one of the Eskimos 
twelve years before when as a young girl she was living with a 
missionary family at Coppermine, farther west on the arctic 
coast of Canada. As a result of good training, she was now the 
capable and charming nurse of the Eskimo hospital, which she 
ran in addition to taking care of her own home and family. 

From Frobisher we flew across Baffin Island; it looked as 
barren as the face of Mars, and with high anticipation we saw 
that the sky over Foxe Basin was clear. The ice was cracking 
along the low shore, one of the flattest in the world, where the 
tide runs in and out as much as 1 5 miles twice a day, but the 
ice never entirely leaves. Few ships have penetrated this north- 
ern extension of Hudson Bay, and it is among the least known 
parts of North America. 

It had been cloudy when I had flown that way ten years 
before, so that our party had not seen and had failed to dis- 
cover the last major unknown part of North America. A year 
later survey planes of the Royal Canadian Air Force noticed 



THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE 105 

and photographed Prince Charles Island. In 1951, when Tom 
Manning was sent in a small boat to plant the Canadian flag 
on this last terra incognita of North America, he had a detailed 
aerial map of the whole island (80 by 65 miles) in his hand. 
The island was now below us. 

Our journey over the ice fields of this white and empty cul- 
de-sac of the seas was made the more interesting because we 
had on board one of its first explorers. The region north of 
Prince Charles and Air Force Islands had been first visited be- 
fore the war by a party of adventurous youths under Manning's 
leadership. One of them, Graham Rowley, was with us. As we 
crowded over his shoulder by the porthole, he explained: 
"There ahead, to the right, is Bray Island. On our first trip 
across it I stopped, when I reached the highest point, to rest 
the dogs and looked across the strait you see below. There was 
a new island, the one that is right underneath us now/' Some 
years later, when he was overseas, the Board of Geographical 
Names had called this Rowley Island and named others after 
his companions. 

We were talking of the last explorations of North America, 
for the whole of Canada has now been photographed and the 
Arctic Sea has been searched by radar. There are no more un- 
known lands; the new frontiers for adventure are the ocean 
floors and limitless space. 

We flew over Hecla and Fury Strait, its name commemorat- 
ing, as do many polar features (Dolphin and Union, Erebus 
and Terror) , the pairs of ships that first explored them. It only 
seems regrettable that another incongruous pair, the Race- 
horse and Carcase, were not so commemorated, too. 

It was clear to the horizon and blindingly bright. We were 
over the Arctic archipelago, the only assemblage in the world 
of such large islands lying so close together. Three of the is- 
lands below us were each larger than Great Britain, but those 
ahead of us were of more moderate size and looking very 



io6 



IGY : The Year of the New Moons 



Christmas-like. Their brown cliffs rose from the frozen sea like 
chunks of layer cake on the white shelves of Santa Claus's 
bakeshop. Over the tops of the tabular islands, the snow had 
blown like frosting; and glaciers, like gobbets of icing, poured 
in solid streams over the edge to join the frozen, broken, and 




Map of part of the Canadian Arctic, showing the migra- 
tion of the north magnetic pole. Shaded areas are the last 
two groups of islands to be discovered in North America, 
the "Conservative" Islands by Stefansson (1913-8) and the 
Manning Islands (1936-9 and 1947). 



THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE 107 

refrozen surface of the white sea below. To the west reared the 
straight cliffs and flat surface of Somerset Island, off which in 
1849 the British explorer Admiral Sir John Franklin had been 
lost with both his ships and all his men. Beyond it lay, like an- 
other great slab, Prince of Wales Island, to which in 1947 the 
Dominion Observatory had tracked the shifting north mag- 
netic pole. 

What do we mean when we talk of the earth's magnetic 
poles? Like other magnets, the earth has a north and a south 
pole; however, the effective poles are not on the surface but in- 
side the earth. In 1600, William Gilbert, physician to Queen 
Elizabeth, pointed out that freely suspended magnets may be 
used to plot the direction of the earth's magnetic field, which 
lies in barrel-shaped curves about the earth, pointing towards 
the poles within. The poles which we call the north and south 
magnetic poles are simply the two places where a compass 
points straight downwards. 

The north magnetic pole was first discovered by Com- 
mander James Clark Ross, R.N., on June i, 1831- From his 
camp in an abandoned Eskimo snow house, he described the 
desolate scene: "The land at this place is very low near the 
coast, but rises into ridges of 50 or 60 feet high about a mile 
inland. We could have wished that a place so important had 
possessed more of mark or note. It was scarcely censurable to 
regret that there was not a mountain to indicate the spot to 
which so much of interest must ever be attached; and I could 
even have pardoned any one among us who had been so ro- 
mantic or absurd as to expect that the magnetic pole was an 
object as conspicuous and mysterious as the fabled mountain 
of Sinbad, that it even was a mountain of iron, or a magnet as 
large as Mont Blanc. But Nature had here erected no monu- 
ment to denote the spot which she had chosen as the centre of 
one of her great and dark powers; and where we could do little 
ourselves towards this end, it was our business to submit, and 



io8 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

to be content in noting by mathematical numbers and signs, 
as with things of far more importance in the terrestrial system, 
what we could but ill distinguish in any other manner/ 7 

That journey was a hard one. The ship Victory, an old Isle 
of Man ferry with primitive steam engines as well as sails, was 
beset by the ice and crushed. The crew who had sailed on 
May 23, 1829, were not picked up until more than four years 
later, by which time they were "unshaven since I know not 
when, dirty, dressed in rags of wild beasts instead of the tatters 
of civilization, and starved to the very bone gaunt and grim/' 
During the last winter their food ran out and they survived by 
trapping and eating arctic foxes. At that time the captain wrote 
in his diary: "Let him who reads to condemn what is so mea- 
gre, have some compassion on the writer who had nothing bet- 
ter than this meagreness, this repetition, this reiteration of the 
ever-resembling, every-day dullness to record, and what was 
infinitely worse, to endure. I might have seen more, it has been 
said; it may be; but I saw only ice and snow, cloud and drifting 
and storm. According to Persius, it is hunger which makes 
poets write as it makes parrots speak; I suspect that neither 
poet nor parrot would have gained much eloquence under a 
fox diet, and that an insufficient one, in the blessed regions of 
Boothia Felix/' Let those who consider it a hardship today to 
spend a year in the polar regions reflect upon exploration in 
the days of sail. 

We had no such hardships, for our plane landed at the all- 
weather airfield at Resolute, the central base for weather sta- 
tions on the Canadian Arctic Islands. Although there were still 
high drifts of snow, it was melting. The temperature was 
slightly above freezing, and the sun shone brightly twenty-four 
hours a day. Inside the base a large mess-hall was open day 
and night, and a succession of men from the construction and 
supply crews, meteorologists and airmen, came and went in 
relays. They were working around the clock to take advantage 



THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE 109 

of the brief summer season. The majority were Canadians, but 
there were some American meteorological observers and scien- 
tists among them. 

Since Resolute is so close to the magnetic pole and so far 
from settled regions, it is not surprising that in addition to the 
ten-year-old weather station a great number of other scientific 
projects were in hand. There was a new tide-gauge, built with 
considerable difficulty to function without damage from the 
grinding ice. There was an important seismological station. 
There were cosmic-ray counters and filters to measure the 
amount of radioactive fall-out in the air. But the chief interest 
of the scientific colony centred on the magnetic recorders, on 
the ionospheric sounder for probing the upper atmosphere 
with radio waves, and on the transparent dome which would 
shelter an observer of the aurora during the winter darkness. 

Here, sitting almost on top of the north magnetic pole, was 
one of the best places to learn more about the earth's magnetic 
field and its subsidiary effects on radio communications and 
on the aurora. 



CHAPTER 10 



THE EARTH'S 
MAGNETIC FIELD 



We have noticed a curious feature of the north magnetic pole. 
It is moving. In 1831 Ross located it on Boothia Peninsula on 
the north coast of North America. In 1947 P. H. Serson found 
it to be on Prince of Wales Island 200 miles farther north. In 
1959 it was heading across Melville Island and had picked up 
speed, for it had travelled another 200 miles in much less time. 
Such movement is not only true of the magnetic poles but 
also of the whole magnetic field of the earth, which is con- 
stantly changing in strength and direction. This is called the 
secular variation. It is well illustrated at Greenwich, England, 
where changes in direction of the compass have been followed 
since A.IX 1600. What could be moving about inside the ap- 
parently solid earth in such a manner as to produce these ef- 
fects? The first clue is linked to another reason for thinking 
that the earth should not be considered a fixed magnet like 
those in hardware shops. At red heat, iron loses its magnetism. 
There are many indications that the temperature of the inte- 
rior of the earth is at a few thousand degrees. Thus, the core is 



THE EARTH'S MAGNETIC FIELD 



111 



much too hot to be permanently magnetized. Indeed, it is 
thought to be iron so hot that it is molten in spite of the great 
pressures existing there. 

A century ago the first analysis of tidal behaviour of the solid 
part of the earth also suggested that it reacted to tidal forces 
not as a uniform solid sphere, but as a hollow one or one con- 
taining a fluid core. This also made it probable that the central 
part of the earth might indeed be molten. 

During the last fifty years the study of earthquake waves has 
revealed the nature of the earth's internal structure in much 
more detail. Large earthquakes shake the whole earth, imper- 
ceptibly in distant places, but enough to affect delicate seismo- 
graphs almost daily. These seismic waves, deep whispers from 
some monstrous organ, pass across the whole earth in twenty- 
three minutes and reverberate within it for hours. They are 
recorded and precisely timed at six hundred earthquake observ- 
atories throughout the world. The records of waves which pass 
through the earth have been pieced together to reveal the in- 
ternal structure of the earth, just as X-rays do the human body. 



thqualce Focus 



Seismological 
Obs- 




Cross-section of the earth's interior, depicting the inner 
core, believed to be solid; the outer core of liquid iron; and 
the solid mantle and crust of rocks of different kinds. Two 
possible paths of seismic waves from an earthquake to an 
observatory are shown. 



112 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

The earth's internal arrangements are like those of a four- 
minute egg. There is a liquid yolk or core of one composition, a 
solid white or mantle of another, and a thin solid shell or crust 
of a third. In the very centre within the liquid core there may 
be a solid button. 

On the assumption that meteorites are broken pieces of a 
planet, or at any rate representative of material common in the 
solar system, it has been suggested that the earth's mantle has 
the composition of stony meteorites. Thus, the core is gener- 
ally considered to be white-hot molten iron, the mantle to re- 
semble stony meteorites; and the crust is, of course, the part we 
see. In A.D. 1600 William Gilbert demonstrated that the main 
part of the earth's magnetic field is generated deep within it; 
the only place which could both generate a magnetic field and 
allow it to move about is this great central globule of white-hot 
molten iron 1,800 miles beneath our feet. 

This seething molten mass is believed to be moving in torpid 
currents, ceaselessly ebbing and flowing inside the earth, just 
as the hot gases in the sun boil up, ebb, and flow. Applying 
knowledge that astronomers have gained of the shifting mag- 
netic fields in the sun, physicists have come to believe that the 
earth's magnetic field shifts with the movement of the currents 
in its molten core. Astronomers believe that the swirling vor- 
tices of ionized gas on the surface of the sun may act like the 
wires in an electric dynamo to carry electric currents which ex- 
cite magnetic fields. The earth's core is thought to behave in 
the same way in generating the earth's magnetic field. If the 
motion of the core produces currents which rise in some places 
and sink in others, as in sun-spots or like the currents in a 
saucepan of boiling water, the earth's magnetic field might be 
expected to vary and perhaps be stronger above rising currents 
and weaker above sinking currents. This view is supported by 
the observation that there are regions of greater and lesser in- 
tensity scattered irregularly about the earth. It has also been 



THE EARTH'S MAGNETIC FIELD 113 

noted that the spots of higher and lower magnetic intensity 
move westward around the globe. Evidently, the solid part of 
the earth is moving faster than its liquid core. 

A knowledge of the irregular changes in the earth's field, be- 
sides having value in theoretical studies, is of great practical 
importance for navigation of all kinds. These changes cannot 
be predicted but can only be discovered by world-wide surveys. 
The best surveys were those made by the non-magnetic ship 
Carnegie which had no iron on board, only wood and bronze. 
In 1929 she unfortunately burned at Apia, Samoa, and with 
the passing of time navigational charts are getting out of date 
and there is a grave danger that essential data will not be gath- 
ered. In some places the declination shown on charts is already 
in error by several degrees. Fortunately, however, the Soviet 
Union has recently built another non-magnetic ship, the 
Zarya, and during the IGY this vessel and American and Ca- 
nadian airplanes made magnetic surveys of the Pacific and At- 
lantic Oceans and over the Arctic. The Americans have now 
proposed a scheme to complete an airborne magnetic survey of 
all the oceans of the world before 1965. 

In recent years new light has been shed on the behaviour of 
the earth's magnetic field through the study of the feeble mag- 
netism of ordinary rocks and old pieces of pottery. When sedi- 
ments accumulate on the sea floor, when lava solidifies, or 
when pottery is baked, certain processes act to line up the mag- 
netic elements of the rock or earthenware with that of the pre- 
vailing magnetic field, and then lock a record of that direction 
into the material so that the record is preserved without subse- 
quent change. These studies have shown that the earth's mag- 
netic field was very different in the past and has changed more 
rapidly than anyone would have believed possible a few years 
ago. Not only is it changing in direction in a way that corre- 
sponds to the observed wanderings of the magnetic pole, but it 
has also changed in strength and been reversed from time to 



ii4 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

time. These studies have been interpreted to mean that the 
continents were in different latitudes in past times. It seems 
likely that they have moved about relative to one another, 
and this slow wandering has been called continental drift 

Odd as it sounds, the earth seems at times to have lost its 
magnetism; and when this magnetism has reappeared, it has 
been reversed in direction, so that the north magnetic pole 
would at times have been in the southern hemisphere. Deter- 
minations of the strength of the earth's magnetic field suggest 
that such a change is now taking place, because the strength of 
the field has decreased by 10 per cent in the past century. 
If the trend continues, the earth's magnetic field may pass 
through a zero value in a few centuries and then reverse its di- 
rection. When it gets too weak, compasses will cease to work, 
the aurora and the Van Allen belts will vanish, and long-range 
radio channels will no longer operate. 

The behaviour of the magnetic field of the earth seems less 
surprising when we realize that something similar is occurring 
in the sun. The solar cycle of roughly eleven years, which we 
have mentioned in connection with the sun-spot cycle, also cor- 
responds to changes in the magnetic field of the sun. Appar- 
ently, the sun reverses its magnetism each cycle and the sun- 
spots are direct signs of magnetic swirls in the gases of the sun. 

The earth and the sun and other stars all generate magnetic 
fields in the same manner. But the currents in the liquid iron 
of the earth are sluggish and take thousands of years to reverse, 
while the sun takes eleven years, and one peculiar star has been 
observed to change every nine days. 

Besides the main field of the earth, which is generated in the 
core, there is another rapidly varying field which is generated 
in the upper atmosphere. Like the sea, the air has tides. These 
liave no more effect on us than ocean tides have on the fish in 
the sea. It is at coasts that tides are observed, and it is on the 
upper surface of the ocean of air far above us that tides in the 




The sun's two toroidal magnetic fields whose existence is 
suspected. They probably rotate in opposite directions and 
create sun-spots where they emerge. 



air produce noticeable effects. There, on the edge of space, the 
atmosphere is thin and light and with corresponding ease 
twice a day it bobs up and down as much as a mile. The effect 
can be seen even in high mountains. For example, at Chacal- 
taya Observatory, Bolivia, which at 17,500 feet is the highest 
permanently inhabited geophysical observatory in the world, 
the recording barograph shows two tidal waves a day with the 
greatest regularity. 



ii 6 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

Higher in the atmosphere, the gases are so thin as to be 
nearly a vacuum, and they are exposed to bombardment by 
cosmic rays, solar winds, and waves of ultra-violet and other 
radiation from the sun. Under these circumstances many of 
the atoms are stripped of some electrons and become charged 
ions. These ionized gases can then conduct electricity and are 
in the same state as the tenuous gases in neon signs and fluores- 
cent lights. The same properties that light up the streets with 
advertising produce conducting layers high in the upper atmos- 
phere, which because of these properties is called the iono- 
sphere. As tides move these conducting layers up and down 
within the earth's magnetic field, electricity is generated in the 
layers. In any limited volume these currents are small, but 
there is an immensity of air and, collectively, currents of over a 
million amperes surge above us at heights of 100 miles or so. 
These produce a smaller secondary part of the earth's magnetic 
field which varies much more rapidly than the part deep in the 
core. 

Currents are presumably formed in the oceans also, but the 
oceans are much smaller and more scattered than the core or 
the atmosphere, and their tides are much slighter than those in 
the upper air, so that the magnetic effects of the sea are negli- 
gible. 

The complexity of these variations explains the value of hav- 
ing magnetic observatories at all latitudes to keep systematic 
records. The main field generated in the core is subject to slow 
changes over very long periods of time. The secondary field, 
formed by the reaction of the main field on the conducting 
layers in the upper atmosphere, is constantly changing in a 
regular fashion, under the influence of solar and lunar tides, 
with the time of day, with the season of the year, with the 
eclipses of the sun. It varies also with latitude. 

When outbursts of radiation from the sun strike the upper 
atmosphere, they cause powerful and irregular currents to flow, 



ii 8 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

and create erratic fluctuations in the total value of the earth's 
magnetic field. These sudden disturbances are called magnetic 
storms and are usually accompanied by aurora and disruption 
of radio propagation. Happily, they do not occur every day. 
But because they derive from solar eruptions, and because the 
blast of gas takes about a day to travel from the sun, they can 
often be predicted. 

In each cycle, as the sun-spots increase in number, magnetic 
storms increase in frequency and severity. They show some 
correlation with individual sun-spots and tend to recur at in- 
tervals of twenty-seven days, the period of rotation of the sun. 

All these effects are prominent enough to be readily ob- 
served and of such obvious value that it can be well under- 
stood why many geomagneticians welcomed a chance to estab- 
lish new geophysical observatories during the IGY. One 
example is the Addis Ababa Geophysical Observatory, which 
was established in 1957 as the first geophysical observatory in 
Ethiopia. The effects of magnetic storms are plainly shown in 
the records obtained there in February 1958. These include 
large daily variations in the magnetic field due to the sun's nor- 
mal activity and a large disturbance due to the sizable mag- 
netic storm of February i. This storm was unusually powerful 
for the tropics. Because the earth's field attracts the solar wind 
to the polar regions, magnetic storms are more numerous and 
severe there than they are nearer the equator. 

Slowly, by piecing together many such fragments of infor- 
mation, scientists are discovering more about the earth's mag- 
netic field. The field is already known to be asymmetrical, but 
it will take time to draw a precise map in three dimensions. 
In any case, such a map will be only an average or instantane- 
ous view because, due to the fluctuations in the ionosphere, 
the field is constantly changing. 



CHAPTER II 



THE UPPER 
ATMOSPHERE 



The earth y like Salome, is shrouded in seven veils. Two we 
have discussed: the Van Allen belts, the farthest flung and 
most tenuous, wisps blown by the sun and shot with the colour 
of the aurora. Now let us admire the other five the four re- 
gions or layers of the ionosphere and the innermost ozone 
layer, all rising and falling with breath-like tides upon the 
earth's rotund figure. 

These veils are earth's garments, but in rather immodest 
fashion they are transparent, as we can tell whenever we look 
up at a cloudless sky. This is scarcely surprising, for the upper 
atmosphere, of which these layers form part, is so thin and ten- 
uous that for most purposes it could be regarded as a vacuum. 
Nevertheless, it affords great protection to us from the storms 
and blasts of outer space; without that protection it is doubt- 
ful whether life would ever have developed. Each veil is a trap 
that stops some particular type of radiation and is, by that ab- 
sorption of energy, itself created. 

In Chapter 7 we mentioned that the outer and inner Van 



THE UPPER ATMOSPHERE 121 

Allen belts are magnetic traps which catch and hold the fast- 
flying particles from the sun and outer space. The main parts 
of these belts were not discovered until artificial satellites pene- 
trated them at heights of over 1,000 miles, although we now 
know that the horns of the outer belt may reach down in the 
polar regions to altitudes of only about 65 miles. 

The other five layers were not recognized until this century, 
although some of the indications that finally led to their dis- 
covery have been known longer. As soon as the earth's mag- 
netism was accurately observed, it was noticed that a compass 
needle moved in a slight oscillation with the time of day. A 
few scientists believed that strong currents flowing high in the 
atmosphere could produce these oscillations of compass 
needles. 

This theory was being developed at the same time that 
James Clerk Maxwell and H. R. Hertz were doing their work 
on radio waves. They had established that these waves trav- 
elled in straight lines and therefore could not be transmitted 
around a spheroidal earth because they would shoot straight 
out into space. G. Marconi in 1901 upset all their calculations 
and predictions by transmitting a radio message over the great 
hill of the earth's curvature from England to Newfoundland. 
The only feasible answer to this obvious contradiction was 
that the radio waves had bounced off some obstruction and 
angled back to earth; and the only possible reflectors were 
charged particles high in the atmosphere. No proof of this ex- 
isted until after World War I, when radio techniques were 
improved. Sir Edward Appleton and Dr. Merle Tuve by dif- 
ferent methods established the presence of three reflecting 
layers in the ionosphere from which they obtained reflections 
of radio waves sent vertically upwards. Tuve's technique was 
similar to that used in timing echoes to measure the distance 
to an echoing cliff or to the ocean floor. It involves a radio or 
radar set emitting very brief bursts upwards and recording the 



122 



IGY : The Year of the New Moons 



time that passes before an echo returns. Since the object of 
much of this work is to discover a good frequency to use for 
sending messages, the sounder does not send just one burst, but 
immediately tunes itself to a slightly higher frequency and 
sends another. Continuing in this fashion, it sweeps the fre- 
quencies from i to 25 megacycles (i to 25 million cycles a sec- 
ond i , measuring the height at which radio waves of each f re- 




Pulse travel time s= t sees 
Transmitter T T Receiver 

The ionospheric sounder reflects signals off the ionosphere 
to determine the presence of its various layers. 

quency are reflected. It then shuts down and repeats the 
operation automatically every fifteen minutes. The instrument 
reproduces the results on a photographic film. 

Not all the regions produce simultaneous reflections be- 
cause the layers in the ionosphere are unstable and change. 
Some of these changes are diurnal and regular; some are irregu- 
lar and connected with solar outbursts. Anyone who considers 



THE UPPER ATMOSPHERE 123 

the matter can recall noticing the diurnal changes; they make 
it possible to receive distant radio stations better at night. At 
less frequent and irregular intervals solar outbursts cause extra 
ionization which can absorb radio waves on some frequencies 
and play havoc with international radio, ship, and aircraft 
communications. Both sorts of change can be predicted, and 
recommendations can be made as to the most effective radio- 
wave frequencies to use at any time between any two stations 
in the world-wide net of commercial radio communications. 
Such a sendee is provided by the National Bureau of Standards 
in the United States. 

This sounding board in the ionosphere is formed by the ab- 
sorption of the intense ultra-violet and X-rays from the sun 
which strike the upper atmosphere during each day. These rays 
ionize the atoms and molecules of the upper air; that is, they 
break them apart into electrons, each carrying a negative 
charge, and ions, carrying a positive one. As the rays penetrate 
more deeply into denser air and encounter more numerous 
atoms, this process increases until all the energy of the ultra- 
violet and X-rays has been absorbed. At certain levels in the 
atmosphere the ionization produced by different types of ab- 
sorption is intense, and layers of charged particles are formed. 
The process is complicated by the rotation of the earth, which 
causes the sun's rays to slant at changing angles through the 
atmosphere. The height and strength of the layers, therefore, 
varies according to the time of day; and at sunset the source 
of ionization is cut off. The layers also vary with the irregular 
changes in emission from the sun and are especially affected by 
solar flares. Finally, the gases in the upper atmosphere differ 
in abundance and ease of ionization, so that each of several 
kinds of gas tends to produce a separate layer. Appleton 
quickly discovered and named three reflecting layers, one of 
which is sometimes observed to split, and these he named 
from the bottom upwards D, E, Fi, and F2 regions. There is 



124 



IGY : The Year of the New Moons 



one more layer, the lowest, which is not ionized and does 
not reflect radio waves. It is, therefore, not recorded by the 
same devices and not called the C region but the ozone layer, 
because of the extra ozone molecules present in it. 

Although the atmosphere in all of these regions is extremely 
tenuous, much has been discovered about its probable compo- 
sition. From the character of the radiation in the farthest layer 
of the atmosphere (the outer Van Allen belt) , it seems to con- 
sist almost exclusively of electrons, each having weak energies 



300 



200 



100 




01 2345678 9 10 

Frequency in Me/sec. 

The altitude at which radio signals of varying frequencies 
are reflected by layers of the atmosphere. Data was ob- 
tained by a vertical incidence sounder. 

of only 100,000 electron volts; although the particles are multi- 
tudinous. The way in which the changes observed in this belt 
coincide with changes in solar activity would indicate that 
some of thesje electrons come from the sun. Whether they are 
accelerated within the sun and merely trapped in the earth's 
field or trapped first and subsequently accelerated is not yet 
clear. There may also be heavier ions present in this belt, but 
they are not energetic. 

The radiation in the more stable inner member of the Van 



THE UPPER ATMOSPHERE 125 

Allen belts consists primarily of very energetic protons with 
energies in the order of 100 million electron volts. There are 
also electrons. Whereas the outer belt is fed by intermittent 
blasts of solar wind, the inner belt is thought to have resulted 
from the trapping of particles created by cosmic-ray bombard- 
ments of the atmosphere. This may explain why it is more 
stable. 

It is known that electrons, rather than positive ions, reflect 
radio waves, and these are concentrated in the E, Fi, and F2 
layers, the last two of which often merge. The D layer only 
forms intermittently at a height of about 40 miles* Electrons 
in the E layer, at a height of 65 miles, suffice to reflect waves 
of low frequency, but higher-frequency waves pass through the 
E layer, especially at night, and are reflected by the F layers at 
heights of from 100 to 150 miles. Still higher frequencies, such 
as those used for television, are only reflected under abnormal 
conditions. Generally they go straight on out into space and 
are not reflected around the earth, as are radio waves. 

In addition to electrons, the ions present are chiefly those 
one might expect to find in the atmosphere charged ions of 
nitrogen and oxygen. Free hydroxyl ions are also present, and 
very rarely, sodium ions. These sodium ions occur in the ratio 
of one atom of sodium to every three million million nitrogen 
atoms, but we know they are present because we can recog- 
nize their characteristic yellow spectral lines in the faint air 
glow at night. 

Below the ionosphere, at a height of only about 10 to 20 
miles, the ultra-violet light nearest to the visible violet is ab- 
sorbed by a process that instead of breaking up atoms into ions 
builds approximately one in every million oxygen atoms (O 2 ) 
into an ozone atom (O 3 ). Although this layer cannot be de- 
tected -by ionospheric sounders, it is so low that it can be sam- 
pled by balloons, and its variations are followed by measuring 
from the ground the extent to which ultra-violet light is being 



126 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

absorbed. As more opportunities occur to sample the higher 
regions with the aid of rockets and satellites, more precise 
knowledge of composition w r ill be obtained. 

Since the ionization which produces these layers is due to 
ultra-violet light and X-rays coming from the sun, we might 
expect that when the sun is directly overhead the ionization 
would be strongest and at night it would disappear. In a gen- 
eral way the strength of the ionization of the E and Fi layers 
follows this predictable pattern with the days and seasons, but 
it is complicated by the lingering of radiation after the sun has 
gone, especially in the F2 layer, by large vertical movements of 
the electrons, and by winds which blow turbulently from one 
part of the world to another with great speed at those immense 
heights. 

These ionospheric wands were studied during the IGY, as 
were the implications of the discovery of the outer Van Allen 
belt, with its horns which project down to disturb the iono- 
sphere. In Antarctica new stations co-operated to study the 
rather unexpected phenomena found during the long alternat- 
ing seasons of winter darkness and continuous daylight. An- 
other chain of stations was relatively closely spaced across the 
maximum auroral belt from the polar regions in Canada and 
Greenland into the United States. On the equator a group of 
four vertical sounding stations in Peru and one in Bolivia inves- 
tigated sizable changes occurring in the ionosphere at sunrise 
and sunset. Simultaneous comparisons in radio transmission 
were made across the equator between Antofagasta, Chile; 
Clorinda, Argentina; Huancayo and Trujillo, Peru; Guayaquil, 
Ecuador; and Sao Paulo, Brazil, which proved that conditions 
were similar in all circuits in daytime but different at night. 
The strength of the radio signals could be correlated in some 
cases with the variations in the magnetic field recorded at 
Huancayo. Variations in both are caused by strong electric 
currents in the ionosphere over the equator. 



THE UPPER ATMOSPHERE 127 

I have mentioned that equipment was installed in many 
places to measure radio noise and to check whether outbursts 
occurred simultaneously in widely separated places. Some 
bursts of radio noise are associated with solar flares, but other 
radio noise is related to local and distant thunderstorms, about 
five thousand of which are believed to be active at any time 
over the earth. 

An idea of the power and impact of magnetic storms can be 
conveyed by describing some of the effects a single large storm 
can have on the ionosphere and on communications. Early in 
1958, as the number of sun-spots was beginning to decline 
from the highest peak ever recorded, the interest of solar as- 
tronomers centred on a group of sun-spots covering three bil- 
lion square miles of the sun's southern hemisphere, one of the 
ten largest groups on record. The group was active, and on 
February 8, as it crossed the central meridian, it emitted no 
less than seven minor solar flares. On February 9 at 2:08 p.m, 
mountain standard time, or 21.08 hours universal time, the ob- 
server on duty at Sacramento Peak Observatory, New Mex- 
ico, looking through a solar telescope similar to that which I 
had seen at Climax, Colorado, noticed the outbreak of a major 
flare in the form of a bright explosion which spread rapidly in 
the vicinity of the sun-spot group. During the two hours that 
the flare lasted he and other observers all over the sunlit side 
of the earth flooded with messages the branches of the World 
Data Centres charged with receiving reports of flares. These 
branches were the High Altitude Observatory, Boulder, Colo- 
rado; the Crimea Observatory, Simeis, U.S.S.R.; and the Ob- 
servatoire de Meudon, Meudon, France. A large flare, cen- 
trally located in the sun's disc, appeared likely to blast the 
earth with particles a day later, and as a routine matter warn- 
ings of a magnetic storm might have been sent to cable and 
wireless companies, to airlines and shipping companies and 
others whose communications could be affected. But the sci- 



128 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

entists at Boulder, who, being on the sunlit side of the earth, 
had received most of the reports, decided that this type of flare 
would not cause a magnetic storm. The sky at Boulder was 
overcast, and they could not see the flare themselves; as they 
freely admitted af terwards, they were quite wrong. Today with 
our increased experience, the special features of this flare 
would have been noted and correctly interpreted, and a warn- 
ing would have been issued. 

On February 10 at 8:26 p.m. eastern standard time, twenty- 
eight hours after the flare began, one of the greatest magnetic 
storms on record struck the earth. Within a few seconds mag- 
netograms all over the earth quivered. Their recording beams 
of light or their pens, which had been pursuing a steady course, 
began to zigzag back and forth across the paper within the 
non-magnetic huts in which they were housed in scores of 
places around the globe. Probably at first no one noticed that 
the earth had been struck by a shock wave of first magnitude 
which was sending currents of millions of amperes coursing 
through the ionosphere; geomagneticians do not sit in the dark 
in their unheated huts with their instruments. But at Hiraiso, 
Japan, one instrument reacted so violently that a technician 
thought it was out of order and stopped it for an hour and a 
half until a scientist recognized the cause of the trouble as an 
unprecedented storm. 

As the solar wind blasted the earth, the outer Van Allen 
belt filled to overflowing with electrons rushing widely from 
one hemisphere to the other and exciting the upper atmosphere 
until it glowed. At eight-thirty a fiery red aurora spread rapidly 
from the maximum auroral zones across all Canada and the 
whole United States to Mexico and Cuba and from Antarctica 
to Cape Horn and South Africa. In Australia it was reported 
at seventy places and lasted in some throughout the night. 
Aurora was observed in Japan half a dozen times during the 
IGY, but the red aurora of February 11, 1958, was outstand- 



THE UPPER ATMOSPHERE 129 

ing and widely reported. Its fiery brilliance misled the local 
populace into calling out the fire department to deal with non- 
existent conflagrations. That night while flying across Iowa at 
17,000 feet I watched it filling the sky with brilliant rosy arches 
which turned from red to a luminescent greenish glow. 

At one minute before nine a fresh blast sent magnetometers 
everywhere off scale. The intense radiation had, without doubt, 
greatly increased the ionization in the atmosphere and added a 
D layer. This more intense radiation, instead of reflecting high- 
frequency radio waves, absorbed them. At nine o'clock all di- 
rect radio links across the Atlantic Ocean faded out. Desper- 
ately engineers relayed messages south to escape the worst 
effects and for a time were able to reach Europe via stations in 
Central and South America and Tangiers, but by eleven 
o'clock all radio communication between the Old and New 
Worlds ceased. The effects on airlines can be imagined. When 
trans-Atlantic radio faded, there were a hundred or so airplanes 
over the north Atlantic. So long as they were within line of 
sight of some ground station, they could communicate, but the 
ionosphere was useless. Urgent messages were relayed from 
plane to nearby plane by radio operators nervously keeping 
contact with one another as they crossed the broad stretches of 
the ocean. Passengers slept undisturbed that night, unaware 
that trans-Atlantic planes were flying blind like two opposing 
flights of pigeons in a fog. Over the Pacific lonely planes, too, 
flew in silence, their whereabouts unknown to anyone but 
themselves. 

The magnetic impulses generated by electric currents in the 
ionosphere in turn created other electric currents in the earth 
and in power and cable lines across it. All over Canada and 
northern United States surges of power swept over transmis- 
sion lines, tripping circuit breakers and plunging cities into 
darkness. The trans-Atlantic cable, which after nine o'clock 
was the only channel of communication across the ocean, al- 



130 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

ternately faded and squawked as electrical pulses of potentials 
as high as 2,600 volts raced through it, straining both the 
equipment and the nerves of the engineers. But it continued to 
operate fitfully until at dawn the return of sunlight exercised a 
tranquilizing effect on the ionosphere. Slowly over the next 
two days the ionosphere returned to normal. These then were 
the effects of a great solar and magnetic storm. Ironically, it 
was one for which no official warning was issued although the 
solar flare which caused it had been seen twenty-eight hours 
in advance. 



CHAPTER 12 



AURORA 



Among all earthly phenomena one of the most eerie and spec- 
tacular is the aurora polaris. Unfortunately, most of its bril- 
liant displays occur over the globe's inhospitable and empty 
regions. A truly fine show of the aurora borealis is seen only 
once or twice every ten years over the thickly settled parts of 
Europe and North America, and over the tropics about once 
in a century. The aurora australis is almost exclusively a per- 
quisite of penguins, for only rarely does it reach as far north as 
Tasmania and New Zealand. The glimpses had by most city 
dwellers, therefore, convey but a poor impression of the mag- 
nificent displays regularly seen over the zones of maximum 
auroral frequency. 

In these regions, when the displays are at their best in the 
spring or autumn nights during the times of sun-spot maxima, 
the whole sky may at one time be filled with swirling flames 
of red, pulsating and changing as though blown by silent tor- 
nadoes of ineffable intricacy and speed. On occasion, in the 
Northwest Territories of Canada, I have seen brilliant bands 
of light dim the stars in the black dome of the sky, while other 
parallel arches stretched more and more faintly to the distant 




Dip Pole 

* Geomagnetic Pole 



Distribution of maximum frequency of aurora borealis. 

horizon until the heavens were filled with moving lines of col- 
our advancing like ranks of soldiers into battle. Each band 
rippled and shifted brilliantly with a shimmering flicker and 
flow, from its dull red base, through yellow, to a crest of palest 
green or purple. The whole army of marching lines of light was 
matched against its own reflection on the sparkling waves of 
the cold lake below. 

Seneca, the Roman, knew them, but auroral displays are 
very rare in the Mediterranean, and the best early accounts 
were by the Norse Vikings and by Polar explorers. 



AURORA 133 

Scientific interest in aurora seems to have been first awak- 
ened by the remarkable display of March 6, 1716, described 
by Edmund Halley of London. He related the aurora to the 
earth's magnetic field, an observation which was confirmed 
and extended by the Swedish scientists Celsius and Hiorten a 
few years later. In the next hundred years further progress be- 
came possible through studies, pursued quite independently by 
two German scientists, of phenomena with which auroral dis- 
plays are linked earth's magnetism and the sun-spot cycle. 
We have already mentioned the discovery of the sun-spot cycle 
by Schwabe; the earth's magnetism (which the Chinese had 
discovered long before) first began to be well understood about 
1830 through the efforts of the great German mathematician 
C. F. Gauss. One of the observatories which Gauss was re- 
sponsible for establishing was at Bombay, and there the In- 
dian geomagnetician N. F. Moos first analyzed the character- 
istics of magnetic storms, with which the aurora is so generally 
associated. 

The First and Second Polar Years provided valuable oppor- 
tunities for the study of the aurora. In the course of the former, 
Herman Fritz produced the first maps of the frequency of au- 
rora by drawing lines to connect places where on the average 
the aurora was visible the same number of nights each year. 
More recent and refined versions of these maps have been pre- 
pared by E. H. Vestine, a Canadian working in the United 
States. They reveal that aurora are most frequent along two 
circular belts or zones which have their centres at the north 
and south geomagnetic poles and lie at distances of about 
1,600 miles away from the poles. Along these belts the aurora 
may be seen on most nights. 

Meanwhile, the Norwegians Carl Stormer and Lars Vegard, 
by photographing aurora simultaneously from two places some 
miles apart, provided us with most of the data we have about 
their height. Aurora are most frequent at a height of about 65 




Distribution of maximum frequency of aurora australis in Antarctica. 



miles, few being observed at lower levels. They are occasion- 
ally seen, however, at heights of as much as 600 miles. 

As early as 1733 a Frenchman, M. de Mairan, demonstrated 
that the early idea that the aurora was due to the reflection of 
sunlight by high ice crystals was probably wrong. The first no- 
tion of the true origin of aurora followed the successful photo- 
graphing of the aurora spectrum by A. J. Angstrom in 1867 in 
Sweden. At first the lines could not be identified, but further 
photography of the aurora and successful reproductions of the 
lines in laboratory experiments (by many workers including 
L. Vegard in Norway, J. Kaplan and C. W. Gartlein in the 
United States, and J. C. McLennan in Canada) showed that 
they were mostly due to molecules and atoms of oxygen and 
nitrogen which had become excited or ionized in the upper at- 



AURORA 135 

mosphere. Molecules of both oxygen and nitrogen normally 
consist of two atoms linked together. Collisions in the near 
vacuum at heights of 60 miles or more can knock electrons off 
the molecules or even separate them into individual charged 
atoms. 

The absence of any hydrogen lines was long considered 
proof that there was no hydrogen in the upper atmosphere, but 
during observations of a strong display on August 19, 1951, in 
the United States A. B. Meinel showed that the red colour 
often observed was at least partly due to hydrogen, and a slight 
displacement of the hydrogen line towards the violet end of 
the spectrum could be explained by the Doppler effect. 

The Doppler effect in sound waves is familiar to anyone who 
has listened to a fast train passing a station platform. The ef- 
fect is particularly noticeable if the locomotive's whistle is 
blowing, because the note drops to a lower tone, and changes 
in volume as well, as the train passes. The speed of an express 
train may be as much as 100 feet a second, a fraction of the 
speed of about 1,000 feet a second at which sound waves travel 
in the air. As the train approaches, the speed of the sound 
waves is increased by the addition of the velocity of the train, 
so that the waves arrive faster than if the train were standing 
stilL As the train recedes, the sound waves are slowed down, 
their wave-length is lengthened, and the frequency of the note 
falls. In the case of extremely fast motions, the same effect can 
be observed in light waves; those from a rapidly receding body 
arrive less frequently and hence appear redder than light from 
the same body when it is still; those from a rapidly approach- 
ing body are crowded together and appear more violet. Using 
this technique, Meinel in 1951 showed that, unlike the light 
from oxygen and nitrogen atoms in aurora, the frequency of the 
light due to hydrogen atoms was increased, indicating that the 
hydrogen atoms were moving towards the earth at speeds of as 
much as 2,000 miles a second along lines of force in the earth's 



i 3 6 



IGY : The Year of the New Moons 



magnetic field. The earth was being bombarded by hydrogen 
atoms from the sun. 

This was the first definite evidence that aurora might be pro- 
duced as the result of the bombardment of the upper atmos- 
phere by high-speed nuclei of hydrogen atoms. The reader will 
of course have realized that the probable source of high-speed 
hydrogen nuclei is the sun. It was suggested that particles trav- 
elling at such speeds could easily give rise to the excitation of 
other atoms and explain in general terms the cause of aurora. 



Earths 
orbit 



Earth. 




\ 



Boundaries 
of stream 



Sun 



A corpuscular stream from the sun. 

But, more recently, the discovery of the Van Allen belts made 
it probable that the full explanation is more complicated. 

The close association of auroral displays and magnetic 
storms has been known since the time of Halley. Slowly a suc- 
cession of geomagneticians, mostly working in England, have 
established some of the details in the relationships existing be- 
tween magnetic storms, sun-spots, and solar flares. These ob- 
servations had suggested in a general way how solar outbursts 
could cause aurora and magnetic storms, and at the start of the 
IGY a whole series of rather similar theories had been ad- 




A photograph of the far side of the moon, 
radioed back to earth bv Lunik III. 




The Crab nebula in the constellation 
Taurus, the remains of the super-nova of 
1054. This photograph was taken through 
the zoo-inch telescope at Mount Palomar. 




Greek astronomer with small solar telescope 
used in co-operation with Moomvatch team 
at Athens, Greece. 




Moon watch team tracking satellites at Terre Haute, Indiana. The 
row of observers is looking through small telescopes. These point 
downward at mirrors so arranged that each observer sees a differ- 
ent part of the sky. 




Australian solar radio telescope that produces radio pictures of 
the sun in the "light" of 21 -centimetre wave-length radio \\aves. 




The Baker-Nunn-Schmidt camera at Woomera, south Australia. 
With this camera Explorer VI was photographed at a distance 
of 12,000 miles. 




The camera mounted at the top of the pic- 
ture is used to photograph the reflection of 
the entire sky in the dome-shaped mirror 
below it. 




A photograph of an auroral display taken 
with the camera shown above. The reflec- 
tions of the camera and its supports form 
the dark shadows across the photograph. 




An ionization chamber for counting cosmic 
rays at the U.S.S.R. Academy of Sciences' 
Terrestrial, Magnetism, Ionospheric, and 
Radio-Wave Propagation Institute. 




A tracing from a mosaic of microphoto- 
graphs of the collision of a primary cosmic- 
ray particle with a nucleus in a photo- 
graphic emulsion. The heavy black tracks 
are part of the disrupted nucleus. The light 
tracks are high-speed protons and mesons. 
The cosmic ray probably consisted of an 
alpha particle or a helium nucleus. 




Observers preparing to release a meteoro- 
logical balloon carrying instruments which 
will read temperature, pressure, and hu- 
midity and transmit this data. The balloon 
is tracked by the radio-direction finder on 
the right. 




Indian meteorologists working with a Dob- 
son ozone spectrophotometer used for meas- 
uring the total amount of ozone contained 
in the column of air extending from the 
instrument to the top of the atmosphere. 



AURORA 137* 

vanced in attempts to explain the details. None of them was 
completely successful. Some vital piece of information about 
the aurora was clearly missing. 

To see just how much was known, let us consider one of the 
more acceptable theories, that of Sydney Chapman, V. C. A. 
Ferraro, and F. A. Lindemann, the last of whom became bet- 
ter known as Lord Cherwell, wartime confidant and advisor to 
Sir Winston Churchill. In the vicinity of sun-spots the sun fre- 
quently emits jets of high-speed gases, both as visible solar 
flares and as invisible weaker emissions. These rush out from 
the sun like gas from a punctured balloon in jets of electrons 
and charged nuclei, mostly hydrogen. Because of the sun's rota- 
tion, they follow curved paths, sometimes hitting the earth and 
sometimes missing it, and in any case travelling like a stream 
of water from a rotating sprinkler. Those that reach the vicin- 
ity of the earth are dispersed on so wide a front and are travel- 
ling so fast that the blast of this tenuous sheet of solar wind 
bears down upon the tiny earth as a flat cloud. The geomag- 
netic field deflects it, so that the wind flows around the earth 
leaving the earth in a relatively empty pocket several times its 
own diameter. The surrounding ring of charged particles flow- 
ing around the earth acts as an electric current, producing the 
effects known as a magnetic storm; the particles feeding more 
slowly into the earth's atmosphere under the guidance of the 
earth's magnetism disturb the upper atmosphere and cause it 
to glow, especially in the maximum auroral zones around the 
poles. The colours are caused by processes analogous to those 
in neon display signs but differ in colour because the atmos- 
phere is made up of gases other than neon. This was the pre- 
vailing theory at the beginning of the IGY. 

This theory left a great deal still to be explained. Why, for 
example, does the aurora flicker and move about so quickly? If 
there is a fine display in one place, are good displays simultane- 
ously widespread elsewhere? In particular, if there are good dis- 




Passage of the front of a corpuscular stream past the earth. 

plays in the northern hemisphere, are there also good displays 
in the southern? Do the displays change in any regular way, 
for example moving steadily southward or higher in the sky? 
Why do the colours change? Does the pattern of the displays 
reveal anything about the shape or nature of the earth's mag- 
netic field or about winds in the thin, high atmosphere which 
may control the aurora? 

On a different theme, scientists were eager to discover the 
connection between aurora and the mysterious air glow. This 
unseen phenomenon was discovered on photographic plates 
that had been exposed to the sky for long periods. Astrono- 
mers observed that the same spectral lines which occur in au- 
rora also appear on these plates. Investigation showed that this 
light is not due to the stars but arises high in the atmosphere. 
The air glow is so soft and diffused a light that it is not gen- 
erally visible; nevertheless, it contributes almost as much light 
to the night sky as do the stars. Little was known about it. Still 
another mysterious phenomenon, only visible in the tropics, is 
the faint zodiacal light, a trail or glow seen near the horizon 



AURORA 

in the night sky after sunset or before sunrise perhaps a faint 
vision of the sun's outermost corona. 

It was against this background that the program for study- 
ing the aurora and the air glow was planned. Thousands of 
volunteers, including weathermen, amateur astronomers, sail- 
ors, airline pilots, and parties of enthusiastic amateurs in all 
parts of the world, were organized to watch for aurora and to 
plot its occurrences every fine night. At a hundred or so scien- 
tific stations special cameras and spectrographs were installed 
to photograph and measure particular features of the aurora 
and the air glow. A special camera was designed which pointed 
downwards at a convex mirror and could thus photograph a 
reflection, in the curved mirror, of the whole sky at once. At 
many sites these were installed to take pictures of the sky, in- 
cluding any aurora, once a minute. At a few stations, arrange- 
ments were made to record aurora by radar, or to fire rockets up 
through aurora, or to take simultaneous pairs of height-finding 
photographs from positions many miles apart. These programs 
would, of course, produce literally several million reports and a 
few million feet of photographic film. To reduce so much data 
to manageable proportions, ingenious routines and machines 
were developed and codes of instructions worked out so that 
electronic computers could compile the results. Once these 
preparations had been put into effect, the countries involved 
could begin sending results to the World Data Centres. Need- 
less to say, no such thorough study had ever been instituted 
before. 

Typical of the program for visual observation was the watch 
agreed upon for North America. Cards showing a simple map 
of the sky were printed and distributed. On these, observers 
were asked to plot the aurora every quarter of an hour. A map 
of the sky should be round; but to see the whole sky involves 
lying on one's back, which is inconvenient, so the maps were 
cut like a pie. In this way the observer can stand and face the 



140 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

four cardinal directions in turn, and sketch each quadrant of 
the sky. A series of guide sketches printed on a separate card 
make it possible to standardize these observations. Of course, 
notes about absence of aurora or about cloud conditions are 
just as important as reports of displays. 

Observers are able to identify the forms of aurora by their 
descriptive names. Arcs are parallel with the horizon or stretch 
across the sky; rays are elongated in a vertical direction; and 
spots are diffused. A poorly defined spot is known as a glow, 
and a strongly developed combination of arcs and rays reach- 
ing to the zenith from all directions is called a corona. During 
any particular display the various forms tend to succeed one 
another, moving systematically away from the polar regions. 
When they first appear, they may be below the horizon and 
only reveal themselves as a glow, low in the northern heavens. 
Slowly they climb up the dome of the night sky, great arcs and 
rays increasing in brilliance and movement until they drop be- 
low the horizon as a glow. The light is most often a pale, lumi- 
nous green, but on occasion red may tinge the lower edge, and 
sometimes even yellows, blues, and purples. 

Two lines, labelled 30 and 60 were drawn across the map 
for convenience in interpreting the results. Since the lowest 
part of any auroral arc is generally at a height of about 60 
miles, a simple calculation shows that auroral arcs appearing 
to be at angles of 60 degrees and 30 degrees above the horizon 
would be overhead at places which are, respectively, 3 5 miles 
and 105 miles away from the observer. 

When data for different areas have been gathered, they will 
be assembled into maps, which will show the distribution of 
aurora over the entire globe. 

It has been found that great auroral displays occur simul- 
taneously in both northern and southern hemispheres and that 
they stretch across the entire night sky, for they have been ob- 
served all the way from Ohio to the English Channel. 



Au ROR A 



141 



During the IGY there were many brilliant displays, and the 
aurora was seen unusually close to the tropics in such places 
as Mexico, Cuba, Fiji, Japan, Pakistan, and as far north in 
South Africa as Bloemf ontein. Aurora were recorded on nearly 
one third of the nights of the IGY somewhere in Australia. 
On the other hand, in some countries which had watchers, in- 
cluding India and Taiwan, no aurora were reported. 

Aurora are most numerous, widespread, and vivid during 
sun-spot activity when the emissions from solar flares most fre- 




Legend 

Arc 

Pulsating Forms P 
Glow 
Rays R 



Distribution and frequency of auroral displays at a given 
time in the evening of February 11, 1958- 



142 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

quently bombard the upper atmosphere. Since the IGY coin- 
cided with the period of greatest activity of the sun ever re- 
corded and since many observers were keeping careful watch, 
it is not surprising that aurora were more widely recorded than 
at any previous time. Such elaborate plans deserved success, 
but it is doubtful that a satisfactory answer would have been 
found to the detailed mysteries of the aurora if help had not 
been forthcoming from a totally different source, and if, as we 
have seen, satellites had not unexpectedly disclosed the exist- 
ence of the Van Allen belts. The horns of the outer of these 
great belts of charged particles reach down towards the earth 
in the neighbourhood of the maximum auroral zones. Clearly 
the belts play a major part in the story of the aurora; without 
their discovery we might still not hope to understand the beau- 
tiful aurora in spite of our elaborate surface observations. Now 
we can be confident of making progress. But the discovery of 
the Van Allen belts is so new that data concerning the belts 
are still being continuously transmitted by the satellites 7 radios 
as I write; at the moment we can only suggest the trend of dis- 
covery. There has not been time to assimilate the data, develop 
theories, and get them published. 

We can now understand how the discovery of the Van Allen 
belts and the production of artificial aurora in the Argus experi- 
ments modified existing ideas about the cause of aurora with- 
out destroying the old views entirely. In place of rings of cur- 
rent freshly created in space about the earth each time a blast 
from the sun occurs, we now substitute the permanent Van 
Allen belts; and we attribute the coincidence of auroral dis- 
plays with solar outbursts to the disturbance and excitation of 
the belts by the arrival of solar discharges. 

Due to the careful tracking of satellites by radio and optical 
means, variations in their orbital periods are accurately known. 
We have already seen how King-Hele used this data to obtain 



AURORA 

more precise values for the average density of the atmosphere 
at various altitudes. 

Careful studies by Luigi Jacchia at the Smithsonian Astro- 
physical Observatory have shown how the rates of revolution 
of satellites are affected by solar activity. In particular, he has 
shown that although both Vanguard I and Sputnik III are 
slowed down a day or so after solar flares, the effects are much 
greater on Sputnik III. The discovery of the Van Allen belts 
immediately provided an explanation. Vanguard I, whose or- 
bit lies between 34 N and 34 S latitude only penetrates the 
inner belt, but Sputnik III swings from 65 N to 65 S, regu- 
larly passing through the horns of the outer belt. If the particle 
density in the outer belt is built up directly by the solar wind, 
and in the inner belt is not, the discrepancy can be explained. 

There is other evidence that this is so. Pioneer IV passed 
through the outer belt immediately after five days of intense 
solar activity, and it measured particle densities many times 
greater than did Pioneer III, which passed after a quiet period. 
S. N. Vernov has confirmed these results with data from Lu- 
nik I, which also passed following a quiet period. It appears 
that the strength and position of the outer belt fluctuates 
greatly with changing emissions from the sun. This belt is in- 
deed a trembling and shaking veil buffeted by blasts from the 
boisterous sun. The evidence suggests that the inner belt, on 
the other hand is quiet and stable. It seems to be the grave- 
yard of many atomic fragments created by cosmic rays. The 
Argus and Jason projects showed that the flow of particles from 
one Argus shell, or belt, to another was very slow and that 
these belts were also stable in position. 

As was mentioned in the discussion of the Van Allen belts, 
rockets fired in 1956 showed that over the auroral zone in the 
outer Van Allen belt the temperature may be twice that at the 
same altitude elsewhere. This extra heating, which may reach 



144 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

4,000 F, could be produced by the collisions of particles 
where they are most numerous, and this may be sufficient to 
excite the upper atmosphere and cause auroral displays. R. Jas- 
trow, who has made these suggestions, considers it significant 
that the loss of particles from the belts to the atmosphere oc- 
curs at the tips of the horns. His calculations indicate that the 
heating thus produced should be greatest at heights of about 
65 miles, which is the height at which aurora are most fre- 
quently observed. Here then is one possible explanation for 
the cause of the aurora. Without doubt, it will be proved or dis- 
proved and a more detailed picture formed when the results 
obtained by Explorers VI and VII are available. But we still 
have no prospect of explanation of why the aurora is broken 
into many narrow arcs and rays and why they move about so 
rapidly. 



CHAPTER 13 



LANDFALLS 
IN A FROZEN SEA 



JUNE 1958 

Continuing our Arctic journey from Resolute, the main 
base of the Queen Elizabeth Islands, we made three great tri- 
angular tours, fanning northwest to the rim of the Arctic Sea. 

On those flights we saw very plainly the difference between 
land ice and sea ice. Some of the islands over which we flew 
were partly covered by land ice in the form of ice sheets and 
glaciers. Land ice accumulates where more snow falls in winter 
than melts in summer. Over the years the snow becomes con- 
solidated into ice often thousands of feet thick. Very slowly 
these glaciers flow downhill until they melt or reach the sea. 
Sea ice, or pack ice, forms like ice on a pond and floats on the 
surface of the Arctic Sea and of the Southern Ocean around 
the coasts of Antarctica. Although broken and heaped up by 
the wind, it is never more than a few feet thick, and fish, 
seals, and atomic submarines can travel beneath it. Icebergs 
are much thicker. They are parts of glaciers which have flowed 
off the land into the sea, broken off, and floated away. They 



146 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

may be seen either in the open ocean or frozen as raised ice 
islands into the pack. 

On the first flight we headed west over the main Northwest 
Passage by Barrow Strait, Viscount Melville Sound, and Mc- 
Clure Strait. These magnificent ice-blocked channels lie be- 
tween islands, capes, and passages whose names resound like a 
roll-call of past explorers, their patrons, and their faith Dis- 
trict of Franklin, Byam Martin Island, Cape Providence, Win- 
ter Harbour, Resolute Bay, and Bay of God's Mercy. It was 
brilliant white over the jumbled ice packs and glaciers, buff 
and brown over the surrounding hills, and blazing blue above. 
We turned over Mould Bay, a remote weather station jointly 
supported by Canada and the United States, and followed 
north along the low coast of Prince Patrick Island, against 
which the arctic pack was heaped in ridges. In sheltered places 
where the ice was broken, seals had come out of the water and 
lay basking in the sun with their young; here and there a trun- 
dling yellow figure or a red splash on the ice showed where the 
solitary polar bears roam and kill, lords of an empty land. 

To the west lay the Beaufort Sea, across whose surface Vil- 
hjalmur Stefansson had walked when he went northeast from 
Alaska to discover Borden and Meighen and the other "Con- 
servative" islands, which he named after leading figures of the 
political party then in power in Canada. On this expedition to 
the farthest frontiers of the Canadian Government's posses- 
sions, Stefansson left the north cost of Alaska on March 22, 
1914. A blizzard with 8o-mile-an-hour winds at 37 F below 
zero had just blown itself out. Accompanied by Ole Andreasen 
and Storker Storkerson and equipped only with two rifles, 330 
rounds of ammunition, and one sledge drawn by six dogs, he 
tramped for three months over hundreds of miles of frozen sea, 
hunting to support the party. On the twenty-fifth of June they 
reached the northwest coast of Banks Island and continued 
northwards to discover new lands. After that trip it is not sur- 



LANDFALLS IN A FROZEN SEA 



147 



prising that for the rest of his life Stefansson should be an ad- 
vocate of an all-meat diet. It is true that Nansen in 1895 and 
Peary in 1910 made long marches over the polar ice, but they 
did not depend solely upon hunting for a living. 

On the next flight we flew past another joint weather station 
on Isachsen Island and saw nearby salt domes on the desert 
plain, great rings of rock, like the tops of sliced onions, with a 
tumble of gypsum and clay hills in the centres places which 
promise oil in abundance, although they have never been 
drilled. We flew beyond, out over the Arctic Sea 99 per cent 
with a solid ice cover, but cracked and broken and showing a 
few open leads of black water until we reached the large flat 
iceberg T3. This ice island appears to have broken off a glacier 
on the north coast of Ellesmere Island a few years ago. In con- 
trast to the shattered surface of the frozen ocean, it appeared 
massive and unbroken. Upon it the Americans had built the 
ice station Bravo. 

We had hoped to land there and at Isachsen, but the spring 
sun was already so hot that the ice runways were dangerously 
soft for a large plane. The pilot contented himself with circling 
low over the square of huts, the fluttering stars and stripes, and 
the excited men. Scattered over the ice within a few miles were 
other flags, vehicles, men, and wires which indicated where 
experiments were being carried out. Until the United States 
submarines Nautilus and Skate cruised under the arctic pack 
in 1958, our whole knowledge of the Arctic had been derived 
from a few such ice parties, a few beset ships, and several hun- 
dred airplane landings mostly made by Soviet explorers. Dur- 
ing the IGY arctic exploration was greatly increased, and the 
results suggest a possibility of drastic change in North Ameri- 
can climate. To appreciate this change, we must consider ear- 
lier investigations. 

The coasts of the lands surrounding the Arctic Sea were dis- 
covered by sledging. In the eighteenth century Peter the Great 




Map of Arctic Sea, showing drifts by American and Rus- 
sian parties during the IGY. 



sent naval parties to the north coast of Siberia, and later others 
explored Alaska, Canada, and Greenland, but the central part 
of the sea remained a mystery, guarded by pack ice too thick 
for ships to penetrate. In the 1870*8 Joseph Wiggins surveyed 
far along the northeast coast of Siberia and Baron Norden- 
skjold completely circumnavigated Eurasia. Fired with enthu- 
siasm, Lieutenant George De Long sailed from San Francisco 
in the Jeannette in 1879, passed Bering Strait, and became 
locked in the pack. Admiral Clements Markham, a survivor of 
the search for Admiral Franklin in the Canadian Arctic, had 
met De Long in England and wrote of him: "He was a good 
seaman, a scientific officer, and an agreeable companion. 
Trained to the management and care of seamen, De Long was 
undoubtedly the best of all American arctic commanders, and 



LANDFALLS IN A FROZEN SEA 149 

he well fulfilled the trust that was placed in him/ 7 Misfortune, 
however, overtook him when the Jeannette was crushed and 
De Long lost, but the survivors, who reached Siberia at the 
Lena delta, brought back word of the discovery of Bennett and 
other islands. Thus one of the most remote of Soviet posses- 
sions bears to this day the name of James Gordon Bennett, the 
New York publisher who had financed De Long's expedition. 
In spite of misfortune, the expedition indirectly established 
the course of the drift of the arctic pack, for wreckage from the 
Jeannette was picked up years later in Greenland. This in- 
spired Frijof Nansen to have a stouter ship built to withstand 
the ice pressure, and between 1893 an d 1896 the From safely- 
drifted right across the Arctic Sea. Nansen, in a vain attempt 
to reach the pole, left his ship on March 14, 1895, and with 
Lieutenant F. H. Johansen walked north. Famine forced them 
to turn back, and more than a year later they were picked up, 
"wild men, clad in dirty rags, black with oil and soot, with long 
uncombed hair and shaggy beards, black with smoke," on the 
Franz Josef Islands. Meanwhile the Fram drifted on, her 
scientists measuring from time to time the thickness of the 
surrounding ice, the depth of the water, and such other mat- 
ters as they could observe. Nansen and the crew of the Fram 
continued on their separate odysseys, neither knowing the fate 
of the other until they reached Oslo within a few days of one 
another. As the old college song has it: 

What a glorious day, 

For old Norway, 

When the Fram came sailing into the bay. 

To the old fiord, 

With the crew on board, 

All safely restored, 

By the hand of the Lord. 

And they shouted "V/hoa, 



1 50 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

Is this Skaervoe?" 
And they rent the air, 
With a loud "Bailor 
And the crowd on skis, 
As thick as bees, 
Came down through the town, 
On their hands and knees. 
And oh what cries, 
When they recognized, 
A man with a pair of sealskin pants on, 
And there I declare was Frijof Nansen! 

A comparison of modern measurements with the data col- 
lected by the Fram suggests that the volume of ice over the 
Arctic Sea is only half as great now as it was sixty-five years 
ago. If this trend continues for another half century, the results 
will be spectacular. An open ocean will greatly simplify arctic 
navigation, but more important it will provide a source of 
moisture and warmth likely to affect profoundly the climate of 
all North America. 

This sounds so beneficial for Alaska, Canada, and Siberia 
that some Soviet scientists have proposed speeding the process 
by damming Bering Strait and pumping warm Pacific water 
into the arctic basin. Apart from the fact that the sea ice may 
melt anyway and that a dam 50 miles long would be expensive, 
some American scientists doubt that the results would be as 
favourable as seems at first glance. They suggest that an open 
Arctic Sea would provide moisture to the north winds, thereby 
greatly increasing the snowfall on surrounding lands. At pres- 
ent these lands are very dry, like cold deserts, and the summer 
sun barely melts the thin winter snows; the mean tempera- 
ture is far below freezing and a more abundant snowfall could 
probably not be melted. If so, it would pile up in ice caps, 
like the ones that melted only eleven thousand years ago, and 



LANDFALLS IN A FROZEN SEA 151 

an ice age would quickly return to North America and Siberia. 

If present warming trends continue, it will be important to 
watch the Arctic, for remarkable changes could take place 
there in the next fifty or a hundred years. 

Modern scientific investigations of the arctic basin may be 
said to have begun in 1937 when the first of a series of parties 
of Soviets and Americans was landed on the floating ice to 
establish bases by plane like that we saw at station Bravo. In 
1948 the Russians discovered the great Lomonosov submarine 
ridge, running right across the arctic basin from Ellesmere 
Island to the New Siberian Islands. During the recently in- 
creased activity, American parties, by measuring the depth of 
the sea below their floating ice station, have discovered one 
and probably two other smaller parallel ridges. 

During the IGY two new types of vessels were introduced 
which will greatly facilitate such investigations in future. Both 
are nuclear-powered and have tremendous range. They are the 
submarine Nautilus and her sister ships, and the ice-breaker 
Lenin. The use of nuclear power and the consequent reduction 
in fuel requirements made it possible to build the Lenin half 
as large again as any other ice-breaker and twice as powerful. 
Launched in September 1957 and commissioned two years 
later, the Lenin has a displacement of 16,000 tons and her 
engines develop 44,000 horse power. She should be able to 
cruise at 2 knots through ice up to 8 feet thick and operate for 
up to a year at full speed without refueling. The submarine 
Nautilus has similar advantages and, in addition, when sub- 
merged can operate at high speeds beneath the ice and in- 
vestigate the thickness and nature of the lower surface of the 
ice in a way not possible from a surface ship. As the Nautilus 
and her sister ships have demonstrated, submarines can rise to 
the surface through open leads in the pack and even through 
thin sea ice. These two types of vessels, each in their own way, 
open new possibilities for investigating the frozen oceans* 



1 52 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

Imagine the difficult}- of exploring in any other' way the vast 
area of ice-covered sea around Antarctica in storms and cold, in 
darkness, and at a tremendous distance from any air bases. 

Our third flight went north by the west sicLs and south by 
the east side of Axel Heiberg Island. A great plateau of ice 
occupies its entire mountainous centre. But we went farther, 
entering the heart of Ellesmere Island by Greeley Fiord. There 
we met a sight of awesome grandeur: from the mountain peaks 
the low midnight sun cast black shadows far across the tumult 
of ice fields, and the limitless sky washed with its orange glow 
those harsh, clear, and desperately barren regions. When we 
were less than 600 miles from the north pole, our plane landed 
on ice 7 feet thick on Lake Hazen, named, like other features, 
for a member of the Greeley expedition which was sent to 
these remote places by the United States Government during 
the First Polar Year in 1 882. We were warmly greeted by mem- 
bers of a Canadian party, some of whom had wintered there at 
a meteorological station. 

The winterers could be readily distinguished by their fine 
spade beards, by their tendency to stand apart as a group, 
polite but slightly condescending towards the new arrivals, and 
by their rather fixed attitudes concerning camp routine and 
meals. They claimed that the winter had been uneventful and 
pleasant It had been dark for five months but the moon had 
been so bright that they could travel without any trouble for 
half of each month. They had recorded 67 degrees below zero, 
which was the coldest temperature reached anywhere in North 
America that mild winter, but since there was virtually no 
wind, the cold did not inconvenience them. We saw that the 
thin snow had not been blown into drifts and could easily be 
scraped away by grazing animals. 

Other parties were fanning out along the 5o-mile-long lake 
or were climbing the United States and Challenger Mountains 
beside it to carry out programs particularly concerned with 



LANDFALLS IN A FROZEN SEA 153 

climate and with the history of some of the local glaciers. 
These glaciers are the highest near the north pole and provide 
a small but interesting comparison with those of Greenland 
and Antarctica. 

Several biologists had seized the chance to come to this 
place. It has been so seldom visited that one can walk up to 
the placid, white arctic hares, watch the arctic foxes playing 
near camp, and see the strange musk oxen grazing unperturbed 
upon the hillsides. After supper our air crew, who had visited 
the party before, lost no time in getting an ice auger, lines, and 
tackle. By fishing all night, they had caught a total of seventy- 
nine salmon through holes in the ice before breakfast next 
morning. Later I tried my hand at this quick but rather primi- 
tive way of catching arctic char. Although the lake has an out- 
let to the sea and is ice-free every August, the fish are so hungry 
that all one needs is a large auger, a strong line, and a mini- 
mum of patience. 



CHAPTER 14 



GREENLAND AND 
THE WORLD'S ICE 



JUNE 1958 

From the Arctic Islands we continued our flight across the 
ice over the narrow strait to Greenland. If one wants to see 
scenery that is stark, impressive, and desolate, the easiest way 
is to fly over Greenland. It is a measure of the change in trans- 
portation brought about in recent years that Greenland, once 
one of the most inaccessible countries, is now crossed every 
night by planes flying the polar routes from the west coast of 
North America to Europe, and from Montreal to Scotland. 
True, these planes do not usually stop, but on a clear, moonlit 
night one may see as wild and lonely a piece of territory as 
exists on earth outside of Antarctica. In size, Greenland is four 
times as large as France and more than a quarter of the area of 
the United States. 

In summer the black-green ocean and in winter the sea ice 
lap cliffs and mountains of jagged ferocity, rivalling the 
Rockies or the Alps. Such settlements as exist are hidden in 
the half-open jaws of rocky fiords. At night nothing is seen of 
life. The whole interior is a plateau of ice and snow 9,000 feet 



GREENLAND AND THE WORLD'S ICE 155 

in height, hemmed in by a rim of mountains reaching as high 
as 13,000 feet. In gaps between the rpountains, rivers of pale- 
blue ice squeeze and tumble towards the sea. Greenland is 
like a spoonful of mashed potatoes hollowed on top and filled 
to overflowing with gravy. Like gravy, the ice, constantly re- 
newed by snowfall, forever flows out from the centre to break 
off in the sea as icebergs and drift south to melt in the Gulf 
Stream. As the glaciers descend into the sea, they become 
scored with crevasses, fractures along which individual ice- 
bergs will break off. 

In June 1958 it was not this distant view which we had. 
Instead, we flew to the Thule airbase to see Dr. H. Bader, 
scientist in charge of a glaciological program on the ice sheet. 
The brilliance of the snow-covered scenery that morning was 
the most intense I have ever known, and my light-meter went 
off scale when pointed in any direction through the plane 
windows. Viewed through my very dark glasses, the jagged 
peaks of Ellesmere Island appeared black against the glisten- 
ing snow around them. We crossed Baffin Bay covered, except 
for a patch of open sea off Thule, with a frozen swirl of pack 
and icebergs. In this open place, called the North Water, rising 
currents prevent ice from forming, and the open ocean creates 
clouds of vapour. 

On the coast at Thule there is a steamer dock. Behind it is a 
valley in which rows of great hangars and barracks are set 
among a tangle of roads lying like thread on the gravel. Behind 
the camp, towering above us as we came in to land, is a smooth 
white wall of inland ice, poised like a substantial cloud upon 
the hills. It is a forbidding place, this great United States Air 
Force base which forms the apex of North American defence; 
not on account of military display, which is not flaunted, but 
rather because of the chill and awesome setting, a no man's 
land of bleak, dark rock between the white ice on the moun- 
tains and the white ice on the bay. 




Miles 



Contour map of the ice surface of the Greenland ice. 



GREENLAND AND THE WORLD'S ICE 157 

We were warmly welcomed by the base commander, and 
taken to bachelor officers* quarters and a comfortable officers' 
mess. Whatever defence installations there may have been, 
they were not evident. What lay behind closed hangar doors 
was no affair of a party of visiting scientists, but we felt an air 
of alert expectancy and a sense of front-line tenseness which 
was illustrated for me by the action's of two very 1 different men. 
One of the enlisted men who looked after our quarters, his 
twelve-month tour of duty almost up, longed for home. The 
loneliness of the winter of darkness among a thousand other 
men and no women had frayed his fibre to the last strand. He 
talked darkly of what would happen to Thule if war broke out, 
and seemed to fear that he might get blasted with the rest of 
the base before the next month was over and he escaped to the 
familiar embrace of the United States. The other was the base 
commander, a very charming and distinguished officer. He 
also seemed to have the jitters, but for quite a different reason. 
As a seasoned combat pilot, he was not fearful. Nevertheless, 
he had a phone in his car; another, so he told us, by his bed; 
and at breakfast, when the one in the dining hall rang, he ran 
and answered it himself. His concern was to be ready at what- 
ever instant S.A.C. headquarters might call. In his decisions, 
seconds counted. During his tour of duty there were no days 
off, no office hours. He did not allow himself the respite of one 
single minute of complete relaxation. While it is indeed reas- 
suring to know that defence services are maintained in the 
alert and efficient manner so evident everywhere at Thule, it is 
also a matter of concern that in other countries the same scenes 
are without doubt being enacted with the same grim and 
dedicated earnestness. So long as this tenseness prevails, it is 
always possible that some weak link, like the overwrought 
enlisted man, may panic and set in motion an irreversible 
sequence of blows and counterblows which would very effec- 
tively solve the world's problem of overpopulation. 



15 S IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

We drove up the hills to the ice. The road was longer than it 
had looked from the air, and we bumped and lurched over life- 
less gravel, stone, and snowdrifts. At short intervals there were 
safety shelters where any driver caught in a blizzard could find 
fuel, food, and blankets until the storm passed or help came. 
\\1iere the road ends, the ice begins; not gently like the sea on 
a beach, but as a bulging white wall dwarfing the operations at 
its foot and rendering the ascent on to the ice steep and dan- 
gerous. 

In one place an adit, or passage, had been driven from the 
base i T 2Oo feet straight into the ice walL The previous year 
heavy coal-mining machinery had been used to cut this open- 
ing to a height of 7 feet and a width of 20. At intervals along 
the roof and walls square grids of precise dimensions had been 
inscribed and dyed on flat surfaces in the ice. In the ensuing 
months the great weight of the ice had very slowly caused it to 
flow off the plateau, and its movement had reduced the size of 
the passage. The resulting distortion of the grids provided an 
exact measure of the flow. Near the head of the tunnel the 
reduction had become so great and the roof was so low that we 
could walk only with difficulty in a stooped position with our 
hands clasped behind our backs and our heads or shoulders 
bumping at intervals on the roof. 

Even more spectacular were the effects to be seen in larger 
rooms which had been cut in openings off the main passage- 
way. Here, mass flaking had led to the collapse of the roof. It 
was unsafe to enter these rooms, but from the doorways we 
could see a succession of huge slabs, 10 feet or more across, 
broken off the roof and hanging like the petals of inverted rose 
blossoms, or heaps of ice which had fallen from the roof lying 
in shivered blocks about the floor. 

At another place a few miles away, where the ice face 
steepened less precipitously, a ramp had been built and a road 
climbed up it on to the inland ice. The surface of this road 



GREENLAND AND THE WORLD'S ICE 159 

was, of course, of snow; the ice is only formed in glaciers below 
a depth of several hundred feet, when the weight of fresh snow 
above and the passage of time have squeezed out air and caused 
the snowflakes to congeal. As a consequence, this road could 
only be used by snowmobiles and over-snow tractors, both of 
which have wide tracks to support them. The great tractors 
used for hauling equipment to the interior of Greenland were 
particularly impressive, as the steel tracks on some were as 
much as 6 feet wide. These tractors pulled 10- and 2o-ton loads 
on heavy sleds and also wanigans, as the bunk houses mounted 
on sleds are called. 

The glaciologists told us of a further difficulty which they 
had to overcome in getting up to the ice plateau so many 
thousand feet above. The margins and indeed some patches of 
the interior of any ice sheet are cut by crevasses, great cracks as 
much as 200 feet deep, many feet wide, and miles long. The 
ever-drifting snow is able to build bridges across most of these 
and hide them completely from view. These hidden crevasses 
are dangerous enough for men on skis or dog-sledges, although 
the snow bridges can usually support such relatively light loads. 
If they do not, the custom of roping a party of men together 
enables them to arrest the fall of any one of their number so 
unfortunate as to fall through. Such techniques are even of 
value in stopping the fall of snowmobiles, but they will not 
do for large tractor trains. Before these can cross the ice sheet, 
roads must be established and marked. All crevasses must be 
found and at the road crossings they must be filled with snow 
by bulldozers. 

Once well up on the ice, other difficulties present them- 
selves. The weather on top of ice sheets is cold; blizzards are 
frequent, and there are no landmarks to guide the parties 
which break trail and mark the routes. They have to "hole up" 
during blizzards, dig themselves out afterwards, and navigate 
across the featureless snow plains like ships at sea. 



160 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

With utmost labour they had manoeuvred a large drilling rig 
on to the ice cap to drill holes i ? oco feet deep. Just as archeolo- 
gists slice through the site of an ancient city to discover from 
the layers of broken fragments the history of an ancient civili- 
zation, so glaciologists, by studying the annual layers, the 
orientation of crystals, and the debris in the ice, trace the 
history of the ice cap. By measuring the thickness of annual 
layers, they can estimate the precipitation; by observing the 
extent of melting, they can tell the summer temperatures; and 
by locating traces of ash, they can identify former volcanic 
eruptions. These operations and those we were to see later in 
Antarctica provided an insight into the formidable task faced 
by explorers of the world's two great ice sheets, and they 
formed an interesting contrast with the very different opera- 
tions we had just seen in the mountains of Ellesmere Island 
and on ice island T3. All had a common basis in man's desire 
to investigate the world's ice 7 whether in continental sheets, in 
mountain glaciers, or in the frozen surface of the ocean. 

The first extensive area of glacial ice to be explored was 
Greenland, which Nansen crossed in 1888. Since then a suc- 
cession of American, British, Danish, French, German, and 
Swiss expeditions have added greatly to our knowledge. The 
area of ice in Greenland has been surveyed. Its thickness has 
been measured in many places by firing small shots of ex- 
plosives on the surface and timing the echoes reflected from 
the bottom. Its behavior has been explored by drilling and by 
digging pits and tunnels. Of the 840,000 square miles of Green- 
land, glacial ice covers more than 700,000. Beneath it, the 
surface of the bed-rock is shaped like a dish rising to over 
13,000 feet along the eastern rim but lying close to sea level in 
the central parts. This dish is filled to overflowing with ice, 
which reaches a maximum thickness of 11,000 feet and which 
has a total volume of 620,000 cubic miles. This volume is 
steadily, if slowly, diminishing, as can be seen from the reces- 



GREENLAND AND THE WORLD'S ICE 161 

sion of the edges of the glaciers and from calculations of the 
total balance sheet of the ice- The average snowfall over all 
Greenland is equivalent to 12 inches of rain, which would 
contribute 118 cubic miles of new ice each year. Fourteen ice 
rivers have been mapped, and each year these earn- an average 
of 57 cubic miles of ice to the sea, where they break off as ice- 
bergs. Melting of the lower parts of the glaciers in summer 
causes a loss of another 83 cubic miles of ice yearly. If these 
estimates are correct, Greenland is losing an average of 22 
cubic miles of ice a year. Should this rate of shrinkage con- 
tinue, all the ice would melt in about thirty thousand years. 

The ice sheets of the last glaciation disappeared from Eu- 
rope and America in about one tenth of this time. The shrink- 
age of the Greenland ice cap is thus comparatively slow, but 
the circulation of ice through the ice sheet is faster. The addi- 
tion of 118 cubic miles of snowfall each year will completely 
replace, or rejuvenate, the Greenland ice cap in about five 
thousand years. This is the average time of circulation of ice 
through the sheet. 

One of the methods commonly used to gather information 
is to dig pits. On the upper reaches of an ice sheet the climate 
is too cold to cause any melting, even in summer, so that a 
vertical section of the ice contains a sample of all the snow 
that has fallen. The annual layers can be counted and meas- 
ured to determine the average annual snowfall, and the mean 
annual temperature can be recorded. In Greenland and on 
mountain glaciers, it is usually possible to distinguish the 
summer and winter layers in the ice by sight, but in Antarctica 
this is difficult. Fortunately, the entrapped oxygen contains 
two isotopes oxygen-i6 and oxygen-i8 the ratio of which 
varies with the temperature at which snow was deposited. If 
the ratio is measured, the summer and winter layers can be 
determined. 

It is not practical or safe to dig pits by hand to greater depths 



162 IGY : The Year of the Xew Moons 

than about ico feet. During the IGY a 5-inch oil-well drill was 
adapted for drilling in ice to extend investigations to greater 
depths. At a place on the ice sheet about 200 miles east of 
Thule, a hole was drilled to a depth of 1,350 feet, and cores of 
ice were recovered from it. The annual layers show that this 
ice had talcen over eight hundred years to accumulate. At a 
depth of i co feet the core contained a layer of fine volcanic ash 
identified as coming from the eruption of 1912 in the Valley of 
Ten Thousand Smokes at Katmai, Alaska. It is expected that 
small amounts of volcanic dust from the great eruption of 
1883 at Krakatoa, Indonesia, may be found in cores all over 
the world. Measurements of the radioactivity of ice in different 
layers can provide comparison of the rate of natural and 
artificial fall-out at different times in the past. 

The drill was later taken from Greenland to Antarctica, 
where I saw it in use. There, with a slower rate of accumula- 
tion, a i .coo-foot core may provide a frozen record of two 
thousand years of history, but greater depths cannot be reached 
with present techniques because the release of pressure pro- 
duced by drilling causes the ice to fly to pieces. 

In 1959, to learn more about the dynamics of ice sheets, 
Expeditions Polaires Frangaises sent the largest glaciological 
expedition ever launched, a party of sixty men with several 
aircraft and helicopters and many over-snow vehicles, to make 
an exhaustive study of an active part of Greenland ice sheet 
which lies between latitudes 68 and 74 N. The ice there is 
flowing seaward at the rate of about 450 feet a year. Markers 
that will last for ten years have been placed every 6 miles along 
a joo-mile traverse of the ice cap. Accurate ground and aerial 
surveys of the region and of the stakes have been made and will 
be repeated in order to determine how the ice sheet is re- 
newed, how it moves, and how it is dissipated. The study and 
publication of the results of this work will lead to improve- 
ments and refinements. It is in the Antarctic, which was least 



GREENLAND AND THE WORLD'S ICE 



known, that recent efforts have produced the most marked 
changes in our knowledge. 

Most of the ice in the world is in Antarctica. Before the 
IGY the outlines of much of the coast had been mapped, but 
no one had seen or even flown over the greater part of the 
interior. A single line of surveys by the Xorwegian-British- 
S\vedish expedition of 1949-52 had suggested that along this 
route Antarctica was a continent covered with ice a mile thick, 
but it was still possible that Antarctica might either be an ar- 
chipelago of rock islands linked by ice or a continent with only 




Contour map of the ice surface of Antarctica. Broken lines 
indicate routes of the major traverses across the ice sheet 
up to the end of 1959. 



164 I G Y : The Year of the Xew Moons 

a frosting of ice over the rock. If the first were true, there would 
be twice as much ice in the world as if the second were so. 

During the IGY twelve nations operated fifty-five stations 
on the Antarctic continent and adjacent islands, and in 1959 
another nation, Poland, proposed to take over one station 
from the U.S.S.R. American, Australian, British, French, and 
Soviet parties carried out major traverses across the interior 
making geophysical soundings. From preliminary accounts of 
these ventures, from reports of the earlier inland journeys of 
Amundsen, Scott, Shackleton, and the Norwegian-British- 
Swedish expedition and from observations made on flights, 
rough sketch maps were prepared. They show the contours of 
the top and bottom surfaces of the ice. The bottom surface is, 
of course, the rock beneath. These maps suggest that the 
volume of ice in Antarctica is about 4,000,000 cubic miles. 
Because the traverses have been few and a long way apart and 
the maps are merely rough sketches, the results are preliminary 
and unprecise. Other estimates range up to 7,000,000 cubic 
miles. That possible errors would be large is indicated by the 
difference in the results of three seismic measurements of 
thickness of ice made at the south pole. American seismolo- 
gists, who were flown to the south pole on Operation Deep- 
freeze, obtained a thickness of 8,900 feet; G. Pratt, the gla- 
ciologist with Vivian Fuchs's Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic 
Expedition, found 6,300 feet; and a Soviet party, which made 
another traverse reaching the south pole on December 26, 
1959, found 9,500 feet. 

Only Greenland and Antarctica have large ice sheets, but 
small ones are to be found on a few polar islands, including 
Ellesmere Island and Novaya Zemlya, and on high moun- 
tains in all latitudes. In the tropics these mountain glaciers 
can only form at altitudes greater than 16,000 feet, but they do 
exist in New Guinea, East Africa, and South America. Because 
mountain glaciers are widespread and because their melt water 




Contour map of the bed-rock of Antarctica below the ice 
sheet as deduced from soundings. 



provides a good summer flow of water, they are of immediate 
interest and consequence to people in many countries. With- 
out glaciers to store the winter snow, many rivers now used for 
irrigation would flood in spring and run dry in summer. Ex- 
amples of rivers fed in part by glaciers are the Colorado, the 
Saskatchewan, and the Rhine. During the IGY, expeditions 
were sent to investigate many mountain glaciers. An important 
example was the joint Swedish-Finnish-Swiss expedition to 
Murchison Fiord, North East Land, Spitsbergen, where thir- 



166 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

teen men wintered. Poland established another station nearby. 

In Mexico there are glaciers on the three highest peaks. 
J. L, Lorenzo, who studied them, has described the difficulties 
glaciologists encounter. Concerning the glaciers of Mount 
Orizaba or Citlaltepet fat 18,620 feet, the highest peak in 
Mexico - , he points out that there had only been one previous 
report, in 1910, and that it was quite wrong. Lorenzo's party 
camped above the i6,ocofoot level for twelve days, and under 
conditions of snow storms and high-altitude fatigue, they 
mapped 3.8 square miles of glaciers. On Popocatepetl the party 
were troubled by smoke and fumes from the volcano but com- 
pleted the mapping of several small glaciers. About the third 
volcano, Iztaccihuatl, he writes: "It is a volcanic range, the 
silhouette of which recalls the figure of a sleeping woman, 
whence its name, Iztac, white, and cihuatl, woman, the white 
referring of course to the white of the snow and ice covering it. 
It is curious to note that Iztaccihuatl is the mountain with the 
most ancient references as to its glaciers. Sometime between 
1781 and 1789 Father Jose Antonio de Alzate Ramirez in 
taking some barometric measurements noticed 'a great wall of 
ice, which because of its great width must have been formed 
since time immemorial/ " 

Since the end of the war, the whole of Canada has been 
photographed from the air. Examination of these photographs 
and of maps made from them revealed that Canada has many 
more glaciers than had been supposed. About 5,000 separate 
valley glaciers and many small ice sheets have been plotted, in 
all covering 70,000 square miles, an area equal to England and 
Wales or as large as all the New England states plus New 
Jersey. 

We have already quoted calculations of the annual incre- 
ment and losses of the Greenland ice sheet and the estimated 
net loss of 22 cubic miles of ice a year. During the IGY at- 
tempts were made to extend this to the world as a whole. 



GREENLAND AND THE WORLD'S ICE 167 

Among others, F. Loewe and H. Lister have published pre- 
liminary estimates of the changes in Antarctica. Lister suggests 
a gain of 125 cubic miles a year, but his figures (although 
attained by the same methods used by Bauer for Greenland) 
must be treated with great caution because, as he points out, 
they are based upon observations made on one crossing only 
and involve a good deal of guesswork. Similar estimates or 
balance-sheets have been drawn for the changes in some of 
the world's mountain glaciers. Almost all are diminishing, but 
we do not yet know the total figure. Since the mountain gla- 
ciers cover a relatively small area, we can be fairly certain that 
the loss is no greater than that for all Greenland. 

Using these estimates, we can try to arrive at a balance for 
the whole world. The total amount of water on the world's 
surface is nearly constant, so that whatever water melts from 
the ice sheets and glaciers will increase the volume of sea water 
and raise sea level. We have figures to make a very rough cal- 
culation. Think of it in terms of water gained and lost by the 
oceans each year: 

Water gained from Greenland (from 22 cu. 

miles of ice) +19 cu. miles 

Water gained from mountain glaciers + 19 cu. miles 

Water lost to Antarctica 125 cu. miles 
Total volume of water lost each year by the 

oceans 87 cu. miles 

A volume of 87 cubic miles spread over the whole area of the 
world's oceans, which is about 150,000,000 square miles, 
would result in a lowering of sea level by 0.037 inches annually 
or 3.7 inches a century. However, direct estimates of the 
change in sea level suggest a quite different result. Tide-gauges 
show that on the average over the past many years sea level has 
been rising, not falling. Estimates of the rate vary from 2.5 to 
6 inches each century. Studies of the rate of submergence of 
marine beaches in middle latitudes also suggest that through- 



i6S IGY : The Year of the Xew Moons 

out the past 3,000 years sea level has been rising at an average 
rate cf 4.8 inches a century. 

It is obvious that the two sets of results are in direct con- 
tradiction to one another. The changes in sea level are based 
upon world-wide observations made over a long period of time 
and are almost certainly approximately correct, although many 
new tide-gauges recently established will in a few years refine 
our knowledge. The view that the oceans are deepening and 
that the land is diminishing is also supported by the existence 
of many dry valleys in Antarctica. There is much evidence that 
these valleys were formerly filled with ice and that the height 
and volume of ice in Antarctica has diminished during the past 
few thousand years. 

The discrepancy in the figures is thus considered to be due 
to an error in the measurement of snow accumulation in 
Antarctica. Recent discussions in London suggest that, in ad- 
dition, the rate of flow of ice off Antarctica may have been 
seriously underestimated. It also seems probable that the few 
places measured for the rate of snow accumulation in Ant- 
arctica are not typical of the continent as a whole. These 
factors may have contributed to the discrepancy. We have 
much to learn, indeed, before we can accurately explain the 
causes, and thereby predict the onset, of climatic changes. 

That these changes can be very great and could have a pro- 
found effect on human destiny is hard to accept, but it is 
certainly true. It is now well established that large areas of 
Canada, northern United States, northern Europe, and Siberia 
were covered with ice sheets which began to melt with great 
rapidity only eleven thousand years ago. For tens of thousands 
of years before that, all these lands resembled Greenland in 
the extent and thickness of their ice cover and in the bitterness 
of their climate. This load of ice locally depressed the land, 
which is still rising rapidly. Indeed it is probable that the 
shallow Baltic Sea and Hudson Bay only exist because they 



GREENLAND AND THE WORLD'S ICE 169 

were depressed by the loads of ice. Everywhere else the melt- 
ing of so much ice has caused sea level to rise by a height of 
over 100 feet. This melting appears to be still in progress. The 
rise of land in some places and of sea level in general are causes 
of anxiety to harbour masters throughout the world. 

It would be of the greatest importance to mankind to be 
able to predict whether the ice age will return, whether condi- 
tions will remain as they are, or whether the remaining ice 
sheets will continue to melt and inundate all coasts to a depth 
of scores of feet. But until more is known of the behaviour of 
ice sheets and the influences which affect them, we cannot tell 
what will happen or at what rate changes in climate are likely 
to occur. 



CHAPTER 15 



BRUSSELS 
TO MOSCOW 



JULY 1958 

On July 16, 1958 I flew to Europe with a party of Iowa 
farmers, whom I met again in Moscow, and an American 
archery team y who fell to earth I know not where. I was on my 
way to attend meetings in Moscow, but I stopped for twenty- 
four hours in Brussels to see the World's Fair and in Helsinki 
to call on colleagues* 

At the World's Fair I went directly to the American and 
Soviet pavilions. The United States had erected a light and 
splendid circular building, easily the finest in the fair. The 
huge hall was bright and well proportioned and rose to a 
great open skylight in the centre, but it was almost devoid of 
exhibits. It looked like an empty stage, waiting for the actors. 
There was a lake, open fields of grass, and a few gaunt trees. It 
was beautiful, but appeared to have little to do with the 
vibrant life of the United States. The lonely emptiness was 
more a foretaste of Siberia. 

A more careful search revealed a collection of abstract paint- 
ings, a movie about atomic energy, a voting machine, a glass 



BRUSSELS TO Moscow 171 

box containing six tumbleweeds, and a room in which hi-fi 
records were being played. In another darkened hall there was 
a good display of the program of the IGY. The whole was 
restrained to the point of bleakness, and what finally made it 
seem clear that the exhibits were intended to advertise Siberia 
and not the United States was an exhibit of wooden farm im- 
plements used by the pioneers three hundred years ago, and a 
collection of enamel campaign buttons from past presidential 
elections. Americans only wear lapel buttons at service club 
luncheons and during political campaigns. On the other hand, 
throughout Asia in the summer of 1958 the well-dressed Com- 
munists wore lapel buttons all the time, and the more of them 
the better! 

It seemed curious to me that the American nation had be- 
come so sensitive to public opinion (and let us be candid to 
public envy) that they had staged an exhibit of exactly what 
they were not. Artistically it was a great success, but it did not 
convey much impression of the abundance, the exuberance, 
the freedom, the exultant joy of living which seems to me to 
be the essence of America. 

I went across to the Soviet pavilion. From the moment that 
I bought an ice cream "Morozony" and entered the big, stark, 
rectangular modern building until I was at last disgorged from 
the aisles within, I felt I was back in the New York which I 
had left only twenty-four hours before. The building was 
crowded with people and lined with displays of Sputniks, sleek 
automobiles, vast machines and towering piles of food and 
clothes. During the ensuing months in Russia and China, I 
was never to see such abundance again. Strange that these 
nations, both so powerful, each wanted to be esteemed not 
for what it was, but in the image of the other: the Americans 
as simple, hardy pioneers; the Russians as lavish providers of 
the world's goods. 

Out of curiosity I went for supper to the Canadian building. 



172 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

It was a skeleton of a place, a lot of girders held together with 
wire and decorated with excellent photographs, plans, and 
models. To a much greater extent than the designers had in- 
tended, it typified the country, half empty and half finished. 
In the restaurant upstairs I had what was advertised as a 
typically Canadian meal: pea soup, stuffed tomatoes, green 
beans with chunks of bacon, maple-syrup pie, and rye whisky. 
I was glad to get coffee and not Labrador tea or stewed spruce 
roots. All the individual ingredients were authentic but the 
menu was not, and I can appreciate why so few restaurants at 
home advertise Canadian cooking. 

The exhibition had a superb setting in a royal park. The 
Belgians had gone to great trouble; I was sorry not to have 
seen more, but I had to catch a plane and fly to Finland over 
the peaceful lands that border the North and Baltic Seas, with 
their trim fields, neat forests, and compact villages of red brick. 
Europe, like most of the more fertile parts of the world, is 
getting so full of people that the cities sprawl together, devour- 
ing the countryside. 

After two days in Helsinki I boarded a two-engined Soviet 
plane, rather like a DC-3, and flew south over the Gulf of 
Finland and the Russian forests to Moscow. During the flight 
a large and attractive stewardess with a mass of fair curls 
plunked a tray of caviar, smoked salmon, cheese, bread and 
butter, fruit, vodka and wine before me and dealt out coloured 
brochures in several languages explaining the wonders of the 
Sputniks. 

At Moscow the vice-president of the IUGG, Professor 
V. V* Beloussov, a gracious, wise, and ponderous man built to 
the dimensions and colour of a brown Russian bear, met the 
plane and whisked me through immigration and customs and 
into a waiting VIM, the Russian version of a 1950 Buick, for 
the 1 5-mile drive to the Moscow Hotel. 



BRUSSELS TO Moscow 17 

In the course of our drive I was guilty of a social error: 
lowered the window of the car to throw away the butt of 
cigarette I had been smoking. "There are ash trays in the arr 
rests of our cars/' said Beloussov. Today in Russia it is irr 
portant to be culturny. Hatless, dishevelled, with bags dc 
liberately chosen for their battered condition, travelling "toui 
ist," and throwing butts out of windows, I was clearly no 
living up to the precise and formal standards of behaviou 
required in the new Russia. I felt like a revolutionary visitin 
the country of the czars. 

We entered Moscow, that huge forbidding city, the Chicag 
of Eurasia and the melting pot of Russia. Here the peasants o 
the steppes come to gawk, here the elite of satellite countrie 
are royally entertained and impressed with the wonders of th 
new Russian fatherland; from here the mass of Communis 
orders and propaganda issues forth; and here, ironically, th 
Western influences of education and science are most strongl 
felt. It was the infiltration of Western ideas and defeat b 
Western armies that caused the Russian revolution, and th 
Western influence has remained strong. Today in Russia ther- 
is a level of popular education and of material progress tha 
would have astonished the czars. 

Our meetings were held in the University of Moscow, new 
ornate, and the tallest building in Europe. Some of its pro 
fessors complained about the difficulties of getting up anc 
down in the elevators, but our meetings went welL At som< 
meetings everyone spoke English; at others, Professo 
V. V. Beloussov acted as chairman, and himself carried on ; 
three-way translation into English, French, or Russian as re 
quired. After breakfast Ludmilla, Natasha, and other efficien 
Intourist guides would pick all of us visiting scientists up at ou 
hotels and drive us to the University, and then would reappea 
each afternoon, offering to show us the sights. With their hel] 



174 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

and with a gradually growing confidence in my own ability to 
find my way about alone, I saw what I could of the city. 

The hotels which I saw fell into three classes. There are 
three old czarist ones, the National (the most comfortable), 
the Metropole, and the Savoy, There are the new skyscrapers: 
the Ukrania and the Leningradskaya for tourists, and the 
Sovietskaya where the party elite congregate. This last has 
much the best service and the best orchestra in town. Lastly 
there are two oddities, the Peking and the Moscow. The Pe- 
king is small and has a good Chinese restaurant. It seems to be 
the place where junior officers and officials like to go for a good 
time and it gets pretty riotous. The Moscow, where I stayed, is 
the largest and most unusual. Its forbidding appearance, the 
bad service, and the close surveillance of its guests remind one 
that it was built by Stalin in the 1930'$. In addition to the 
watchful doorman and the girl on each floor, I regularly re- 
ceived an incomprehensible phone call at eleven-thirty each 
night and once, returning unexpectedly, I caught a man emerg- 
ing from my room. Perhaps he was inspecting the plumbing. 

On the top floor is a caf6 accessible from the street, not 
from the hotel frequented by the rock and roll teen-agers who 
also gather on the square in front of the hotel in great numbers 
each evening to watch an open-air stage show, listen to the 
loudspeakers, dance on the pavement, and jostle the girls. 

One of the interpreters took us to the Tretygof Gallery the 
Moscow counterpart of the L/Hermitage Gallery in Leningrad, 
but devoted solely to the work of Russian artists. Although the 
Russians have never been as distinguished in painting as in 
writing or music, the gallery is a splendid review of the social 
history of the country, A French scientist who had praised 
L'Hermitage to the skies said: "Ride a bicycle through the 
Tretygof, but spend hours in its basement among the old 
ikons/' We did. I had no idea until I saw them how superbly 
colourful and imaginative these religious paintings could be, 



BRUSSELS TO Moscow 175 

and how many facets of the life of the times could be packed 
into the background of a saint's portrait. 

Seeing our interest in the ikons, our interpreter asked: "Do 
you believe in God?'* One of us replied and returned the ques- 
tion. "Xo," she said doubtfully. * 4 We have no need. Science is 
our God/' I considered advising her to spend more time on her 
scientific catechism, for her knowledge of science was slight, 
but realizing that she was an Intourist guide, not a technical 
translator, I held my peace. 

Another night she took us to the State Central Puppet 
Theatre. We were late because the service at the Moscow 
Hotel was so slow that it always took two hours to get dinner. 
It made no difference whether the Intourist guides were there 
to browbeat the waiters, or whether we were unattended and 
free to try cajolery and tips; the sendee was uniformly bad. The 
endless delays were compounded by a chronic shortage of 
menus. The more farsighted waiters had small caches of them 
hidden under the tablecloth, but they usually managed to 
produce the wrong one. They had three to choose from: 
tourist, first class, and de luxe. We scientists all sat together, 
but we were travelling in varying degrees of grandeur and the 
changes that could be rung on three classes of meal tickets and 
menus led to endless confusion. 

That night, when we had at last got our salt fish in jelly, 
partridge with jam, tomato salad, coffee with lemon, and ex- 
cellent bread, we made our way to the theatre, which stood in 
a garden like the Tivoli in Copenhagen. The production was 
directed by People's Artist of the U.S.S.R., S. V. Obreztsov, 
whose puppets seemed to be able to lampoon the regime in a 
way no actors would have dared. The tickets, at 17 roubles 
(officially $4.25), were beyond the means of any but the more 
prosperous and sophisticated Russians,, and most of the au- 
dience were tourists. 

I sat between my interpreter, Natasha, and a businessman 



176 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

from New Haven* He mentioned that during the day he had 
driven into the country to a Greek Orthodox monastery and 
that he had been unfavourably impressed by the number of 
empty trucks he had seen bouncing along the roads. I later 
learned that this apparent inefficiency and waste was due to 
the fact that the peasants, having no cars of their own, seize on 
any sort of an errand as an excuse for a joy ride in a truck. 

An enthusiastic choir of puppets began the first chorus, 
which was translated for me: 

Drink more vitamins, 

Ml drink vitamins, 

Vitamins A B C D. 

Only those who drink more vitamins 

Will live to their death. 

I probably looked rather blank, but Natasha thought it very 
funny and daring, "Don't you see/' she explained, "that they 
are laughing at the ridiculous laws and edicts which the Gov- 
ernment is always issuing?" 

There followed a quick succession of clever acts from old 
fashioned vaudeville: 

MAKEIT BETTEROF Cellist 
ALLEGRETTA TRALAIALOVA Coloratura Soprano 

Also an infant prodigy, a lion tamer, an illusionist, a waltz 
team, and at the piano SufFerin Victor. The jazz quartet of 
"Boogie, Woogie, Jeep, and Creep" roused shouts of enthu- 
siasm because at other places jazz is frowned upon as decadent. 
Best of all was the gypsy choir. As the program had it: "Just 
imagine that we are in a restaurant. Enter the gypsy choir. 
Around us rises the smell of the steppes and schnitzel What- 
ever anyone may say, for me this is real art: Ochi Ghernize. 
... I have not enquired too closely into their family back- 
grounds. I wouldn't like to say that they are all gypsies, but 



BRUSSELS TO Moscow 177 

don't let's be too particular. I do know that one of them has a 
gypsy sister-in-law/* 

The puppets had faces and dresses of a completely oriental 
cast obviously from Turkestan and Central Asia. They 
danced and sang gypsy choruses interspersed with solos. Each 
time another slit-eyed Turk or Uzbek was introduced, Natasha 
was convulsed with laughter. I became more and more puzzled. 
"Don't you see/ 7 she whispered hysterically, "how they are 
laughing at the fuss the Government makes about the national 
minorities? Don't you hear how completely Russian the names 
are that they have given to all those extraordinary-looking 
people from the south? Don't you hear/' she sobbed between 
her laughter, "what those horrible gypsies are singing? They 
are saying: "Money is everything, money is everything/ " 

Perhaps this show was put on for the benefit of tourists. If 
so, this particular tourist missed the finer points, but the Rus- 
sians in the audience didn't miss a thing, and they loved it. 

I went to many scientific institutes, several with very fine 
new buildings. But whether new or not, all were full of eager 
and able scientists who showed great interest in exchanging 
ideas with the West. Some of them asked us to their homes, a 
fairly new venture I believe, because only recently have sus- 
picions been relieved and the standards of living raised suffi- 
ciently to make this possible. 

The living standard for full professors in Moscow is com- 
parable with that in North America; they have rather fewer 
rooms, and fewer cars, but they have more books. They have 
good food, summer holidays on the Black Sea, the chance to 
travel over half Asia, and for the fortunate, occasional trips to 
underdeveloped countries or to Europe. 

The fact of the matter is that I thoroughly enjoyed my time 
with the Russian scientists, and I found them not funda- 
mentally different from ourselves. Another Canadian scientist 
in Moscow summed up our views on Russian progress by re- 



178 I G Y : The Year of the New Afoons 

marking: "Only a fool could fail to be impressed." Why then 
is this picture so different from what we imagine? Were these 
scientists typical? Was my view of Russia genuine? 

It was genuine enough. We went into well-known institutes, 
met well-known scientists, saw their laboratories, and talked 
about science. Countries don't build jet airplanes and launch 
Sputniks without a very real and large body of able engineers 
and scientists. These scientists came from many classes and 
held many beliefs, not always what the Communist party 
would have wished. One cannot easily be specific in these 
matters, but the diverse backgrounds are illustrated by two 
scientists whom I met. One was Urey Goudin, Stalin Prize 
winner and devoted Communist, skeptical of foreigners and 
brought up entirely in the pattern of the revolution, but an 
able oil-finder none the less. The other was the late Academi- 
cian Ivan Bardin, vice-chairman of the Academy of Sciences of 
the U.S.S.R. and chairman of the Soviet IGY Committee. At 
a reception in Moscow he said to me in good English: "Profes- 
sor Wilson, Fm glad to see you again. We enjoyed our visit to 
Toronto last year. It was good to be back in North America/' 
When I asked him about his previous visit, he said: "Yes, in 
1910, when I was a young man, I worked for a year as a 
metallurgist for the Illinois Steel Company in Gary, Indiana/' 

The young engineer of czarist days who was able to go 
abroad and round out his education is hardly one's idea of the 
successful revolutionary, but because of his ability that wise 
old man had remained to render great service to his country. 



CHAPTER 16 



GRAVITY AND THE 
EARTH'S WOBBLE 



Gravity is the power of attraction of the earth. It is what keeps 
men's feet on the ground. In doing so it provides us with a 
strong sense of direction. Being upright feels the same every- 
where, although a moment's reflection about people around 
the globe shows that the vertical direction is not uniform, as it 
feels, but is always radial to the earth. 

This power of attraction is not confined to the earth but is a 
universal property of matter, We don't know why it exists, but 
we do know that it cannot be generated like magnetism and 
that it does not vary with time. Its study is therefore much 
easier than is the study of geomagnetism. Once the value of 
gravity has been measured at any place, that value is fixed. 
There is no need for gravity observatories as there is for mag- 
netic observatories. 

Broadly speaking, geophysicists concentrated during the 
IGY's year and a half span on phenomena which fluctuated 
rapidly with significant and measurable changes. Gravity was 
certainly not one of these, and was not a major program but it 



180 I G Y : The Year of the Xevv 1 Moons 

was included because the IGY offered gravity specialists so 
many good opportunities to get to out-of-the-way places and 
speed the regular collection of data. 

To measure gravity two means are employed: deflections of 
delicate spring balances called gravimeters and variations in 
the rate of swing of pendulums. 

The earth is slightly flattened at the poles. Thus, anyone 
sitting at the north pole is thirteen miles closer to the centre of 
the earth than he would be if he were sitting at the equator. 
The fact that the earth may also be somewhat pear-shaped 
would have less effect than the flattening. 

Since the closer a body is to the centre of the earth the 
greater is the pull of gravity, a heavy man weighs about a 
pound more at the poles than he does at the equator. This 
change would not show on a steelyard because the balancing 
weights would be equally affected by the change, but it would 
show on spring scales because springs are not affected by 
gravity. By using special spring balances called gravimeters, 
we can measure variations in gravity with extreme accuracy, 
even to one part in a billion. 

Pendulums swing because gravity attracts them. Therefore 
the rate of swing of pendulums is affected by changes in the 
value of gravity. The astronomer Pierre Bouguer discovered 
this when he was sent by the French Academy to carry out 
surveys in Ecuador and Peru in 1735 and found that his 
pendulum clock ran slower over the equatorial bulge. Pen- 
dulums used in this work can now be timed so precisely that 
even the slight aging which occurs in any material after it has 
been worked during manufacture affects their length and time 
of swing and causes errors. Thus, old pendulums, which have 
been through a long settling-down period, so to speak, tend to 
be better than new ones. It is generally agreed that the two 
best sets are those made twenty-five years ago by the Gulf Oil 
Company and the University of Cambridge. Measurements 



GRAVITY AND THE EARTH'S WOBBJ.E 181 

have now been made by these instruments and by sensitive 
gravimeters at stations all over the world. 

The IGY, with its many bases in remote places, provided an 
excellent chance to measure gravity more extensively than 
ever before. The United States took a lead in linking existing 
surveys by networks around the world and from pole to pole. 
One of the latter lay through the Americas and another lay 
through Japan and New Zealand. A third network extended 
from the Arctic through Europe and South Africa. 

When plans had been made to complete the land network 
for the measurement of gravity, concern \vas expressed about 
how to supplement the scarce observations over the seven 
tenths of the earth's surface covered with water. The motion 
of waves has always made measurement difficult, and observa- 
tions had only been made by instruments lowered to the 
bottom in a few shallow places and from submarines sub- 
merged below the waves. Both methods were necessarily 
limited. Italian, Swedish, and Finnish scientists urged that 
underwater gravimeters be widely used on continental shelves 
during the IGY, and much of the Baltic Sea was covered in 
this fashion. 

The idea of using a submerged submarine as a quiet place in 
which to measure gravity at sea was first put into practice in 
1923 by the Dutch geodesist F. A. Vening Meinesz. The 
Americans wished to make no less than two thousand observa- 
tions from submarines, but since all navies seem to share a 
reluctance to lend their submarines the proposal did not prove 
feasible. J. L. Worzel, of Columbia University, found a way 
out of the impasse by developing a method of measuring 
gravity from surface ships. In November 1957 he succeeded in 
adapting a new German Graf instrument to record gravity 
continuously on shipboard as long as the weather was rea- 
sonably calm. He achieved this by placing the instrument 
exactly at the centre of buoyancy of the ship, where the motion 



GRAVITY ANOMALIES 
{ FREE AIR) 




Map indicating variations in the strength of gravity in the 
Baltic Sea. Survey was made by Dr. Honkasalo, who low- 
ered underwater gravimeter to the bottom of the sea to 
obtain measurements. 



is least, and setting it ? dampened with viscous oil, on a 
stabilized platform so that it did not respond to rapid wave 
motion. In this way it has become possible to measure gravity 
over the oceans and so complete a gravity survey of all parts of 
the world; but this will take several more years. 

Gravity is an inherent property of all matter, and the 



GRAVITY AND THE EARTH'S WOBBLE 183 

amount of matter near any spot determines the value of 
gravity there. For most practical purposes, the earth is so much 
the largest piece of matter in our vicinity that its attraction 
outweighs all else. That is why the value of gravity is said to be 
constant. If, however,, large masses lying close by are moved, 
then a detectable change can occur. The movements of the 
sun and moon can also produce small but regular tidal effects. 

Extremely sensitive gravity instruments can detect so minor 
a change as a wash-out under an apparently sound pavement. 
They can also disclose a body of heavy ore in the ground or 
show that in general tall buildings \veigh less than the earth 
excavated from their basements. 

Just as the sea rises and falls with the tides, so does the land; 
but whereas the great pulse of the tides of the sea is measured 
in feet, the rhythm of the rise and fall of the land is measured 
only in inches. Nevertheless, increases and decreases in the 
distance from the surface to the centre of the earth cause very 
small variations in the value of gravity which can be detected 
by delicate gravimeters. The most sensitive can record changes 
in elevation as small as one eightieth of an inch. 

Both the U.S.S.R. and the United States proposed that 
earth tides should be recorded at fixed stations which would 
provide information about the rigidity of the earth's interior. 
Such stations were established all over the world, including 
one at a depth of 4,000 feet in a mine at Pribram, Czechoslo- 
vakia. 

Due to the preponderant influence of the earth, the value o 
gravity at different places is related to the size and shape of the 
earth. The study of the earth's vital statistics, or the figure of 
the earth, is called geodesy. This word puzzles a great many 
people, but one can remember it if one understands that 
geodesy bears the same relation to an appreciation of the earth 
as the figures 3525-35 bear to the judging of Miss Universe. 
Geodesists confine themselves to the main features and leave 



1 84 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

it to the topographers and hydrographers to fill in the detail. 

A knowledge of the shape of the earth is of course essential 
to any broad-scale mapping, and that is chiefly why countries 
have geodetic surveys. To survey a one-acre field, it makes no 
difference whether the earth is a large sphere or a flat slab 
borne on the back of a turtle; but to survey very large tracts, to 
navigate across oceans, or to determine boundaries between 
countries, it is necessary to know the shape and size of the 
earth as precisely as possible. 

Geodesists use three types of measurement: observations of 
stars; surveys of distances and directions; and measurements of 
changes in the value of gravity from place to place. 

It is surprising that such good astronomers as the ancient 
Babylonians and Egyptians were hypnotized by the uniformity 
of the feeling of uprightness and failed to realize that the 
earth is spherical, not flat. The Greeks were the first to dis- 
cover this truth and thereby explain such well-known phe- 
nomena as the round shadow cast by the earth on the face of 
the moon during eclipses, the sinking of distant objects below 
the horizon, and the apparent change in the heights of the sun 
and stars between temperate and tropical latitudes. 

To an Eskimo the Pole Star appears high in the heavens; 
in Ecuador it is close to the horizon. There, on the earth's 
waist line, I have seen the Great Bear and the Southern Cross 
on opposite sides of the heavens at the same time. The Pata- 
gonian cannot see the Pole Star at all because the bulge of the 
earth hides it from his view. By making a precise series of such 
observations from different places on the earth, we can chart 
the curvature of the earth and so discover its shape and size. It 
was in this way that Eratosthenes measured the size of the 
earth fairly accurately. Geodetic surveys were among the first 
scientific measurements to reach a high degree of precision, 
and in the two centuries since the initial French expeditions 
preliminary surveys have been executed in most parts of the 



GRAVITY AND THE EARTH'S WOBBLE 185 

world. It has been discovered that if the topographical details 
are smoothed out the general shape of the earth closely ap- 
proximates a flattened spheroid. Since 1924 the figures adopted 
by international agreement for this spheroid have been: 
polar diameter 7 12713.824 kilometres; equatorial diameter, 
12756.776 kilometres. 

Given these figures and the elevation of any particular place, 
it is possible to calculate what the value of gravity should be at 
that place. This calculated value can be compared with the 
measured or observed value. Any difference between the two is 
called an anomaly and is attributed to irregularities within the 
earth. This is one way in which gravity measurements help us 
understand the earth's interior. 

In a few years, when there has been time to calculate and 
collect all the results obtained during the IGY, it is probable 
that the official figures for our standard spheroid will be 
slightly revised and improved. If, as J. A. O'Keefe has postu- 
lated, the earth is very slightly pear-shaped, and if the equator 
is indeed somewhat elliptical, then small modifications may be 
introduced in the equation. 

Since we have already described how irregularities in the 
motion of satellites are used to study irregularities in the shape 
of the earth, it will be understood that local variations and 
anomalies in gravity affect the paths of long-range missiles. If 
the dimensions of the earth are in error or the distances be- 
tween continents and islands are not precisely known, then 
the aim of missiles will be correspondingly affected. These 
military implications have on the one hand intensified the 
study of geodesy and gravity, and on the other they have led 
to some reticence in the exchange of certain information. For- 
tunately, most of these measurements were known fairly 
accurately before the missile age so that only limited refine- 
ments are possible. 

In addition to observations from satellites, precise clocks 



iS6 IGY : The Year of the Xew Moons 

and ingenious telescopes have been introduced to increase 
accuracy in the measurement of the stars. In 1958 at Welling- 
ton, New Zealand, I saw a Danjon astrolabe, a telescope 
developed in France for fixing the direction of stars. Later in 
Sao Paulo, Brazil, I saw the American Markowitz moon 
camera, which makes it possible to photograph perturbations 
of the moon with great precision. The principle is very simple. 
The path of the moon past the stars each month can be cal- 
culated, its average speed is known, and for any instant of time 
its position relative to stars can be predicted precisely. Photo- 
graphs can then be taken to determine whether the moon is on 
time. If it appears not to be, slight irregularities in the rate of 
rotation of the earth are probably the cause. This process in- 
volves practical difficulties, however, because the moon is 
moving relative to the stars and because it is so much brighter 
than the}' are. With a fast exposure only the moon shows on 
a photograph; and with a long exposure, which would show the 
stars, the moon's image is fogged by its greater brilliance 
and both moon and stars are blurred by their motions. To 
overcome these difficulties, the Markowitz camera is driven by 
a small motor in such a way that the images of the stars remain 
fixed on the plate and can be photographed without apparent 
motion during long exposures. To reduce the glare of the 
moon, a round dark filter is positioned in the barrel of the 
telescope so that it just covers and darkens the image of the 
moon without interfering with the light from the surrounding 
stars. The moon filter incorporates a prism that is rotated at 
the rate required to hold the image of the moon steady against 
the stars, thereby effectively "stopping* 7 the motion of the 
moon relative to the stars. 

The importance of these geodetic and astronomical meas- 
urements to gravity studies has already been indicated, but 
they are also vital to another related program of the IGY, one 
called Longitudes and Latitudes, which was aimed at discover- 



GRAVITY AND THE EARTH'S WOBBLE 187 

ing how much the earth wobbles during its rotation. Astrono- 
mers have observed for a long time that the earth is not entirely 
uniform in either its direction or its speed of rotation; its axis 
wobbles like a top and its speed is also slightly irregular* Small 
fluctuations might have been predicted and can easily be ex- 
plained. The interesting questions are whether systematic 
changes are moving the direction of the axis of rotation about 
and whether the earth is speeding up or slowing down. 

Everyone knows that a skater spins faster when he hugs his 
arms close to his sides than he does when he holds them spread 
out. In the same way, shifting of the earth's cargo of water, ice, 
and air can cause it also to wobble about on its axis. These 
changes in distribution can be brought about by great storms 
or by variations in the pattern of persistent winds. Thus, the 
speed at which the earth is spinning varies according to 
whether the waters on its surface are piled up around the 
equator or driven towards the poles. W. A. Munk has suggested 
that such changes are also due in part to movements in the 
liquid core of the earth. 

These effects have long been known. Observations collated 
at Naples, Italy, show that the wobbling of the axis causes the 
north and south poles to move with an irregular circular mo- 
tion about 10 feet in diameter. But we have been observing 
this phenomenon for so short a time that no one can yet say 
whether the poles are migrating or whether the continents are 
drifting. Likewise, the speed varies so much that some days are 
one thousandth of a second longer than others, and this can 
easily be measured on atomic clocks precise to one part in a 
billion. There is also good evidence that the earth is slowing 
down. This theory is the result of work on historical records of 
old eclipses by an astronomer named J. K. Fotheringham. 

Fotheringham searched the old Babylonian records and 
from time to time found references such as: "On the twenty- 
sixth day of the month of Sibellu in the seventh year, the day 



iSS IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

was turned to night and there was fire in the midst of heaven/' 
From his knowledge of the records he was able to interpret this 
to mean: fci On the thirty-first day of July, 1062 B.C., there was a 
total eclipse in Bab\lon." Working with modern astronomical 
tables, he established the fact that there had indeed been a 
total eclipse on July 31, 1062 B.C., but that the narrow path of 
totality for that eclipse should not have passed near Babylon. 
He found similar discrepancies between calculations and ob- 
servations throughout, which he could only explain if the 
earth had slowed down by four and a half hours in the past 
three thousand years. Inasmuch as there are a great many days 
in three thousand years, and since the changes in rate are 
cumulative, this discrepancy could also be explained if the 
days in each century were on the average only about one 
thousandth of a second longer than the days of the preceding 
century. 

Several of the matters discussed in this chapter are related 
to a fundamental question which has not been fully settled. 
This is the problem of whether the earth has permanent 
strength or not; of whether it behaves like a true solid and 
holds its shape indefinitely against applied forces or whether 
if these forces are applied for a long time it will flow slowly 
like pitch or tallow and adjust itself to them. For short periods 
we know the answer. The earth is more rigid than steel. Large 
earthquakes make the earth ring like a bell and daily tides in- 
dicate a similar rigidity to brief forces, but there is still no 
agreement as to whether the earth flows in response to forces 
which are applied for thousands and millions of years. 
O'Keefe's discovery that the earth is slightly pear-shaped led 
him to believe that the maintenance of this shape indicates 
permanent strength, but we have seen that other geophysicists 
consider the pear shape a relatively temporary deviation caused 
by ice loads applied during the recent ice age. The discovery 
that the rate of rotation is changing also suggests that the 



GRAVITY AND THE EARTH'S WOBBLE 189 

earth is capable of flow, for the present shape of the earth is 
just what it would be in a fluid body rotating at the earth's 
speed. If the earth is able to flow, this is to be expected. But 
if the earth is rigid, it is a remarkable occurrence that we should 
be living just when its unyielding shape exactly corresponds 
to that of a liquid body rotating at the same speed. 

A sufficient knowledge of gravity might also help us settle 
this problem. If over the whole earth the calculated and ob- 
served values agree closely, then the earth is in equilibrium 
and has probably flowed slowly to reach adjustment. If, on 
the other hand, these values do not agree, then it can be con- 
cluded that the earth has not adjusted to its irregularities and 
hence probably has permanent strength which enables it to 
resist adjustment. The settlement of this question is funda- 
mental to an understanding of the causes and nature of 
mountain-building. Because the enigma has not been resolved, 
there are many theories of mountain-building, each supported 
by some evidence and apparently contradicted by other ob- 
servations. Some theories have depended upon a strong earth, 
others on a plastic one. 

By coincidence, another theory which had not been taken 
very seriously before was raised during the IGY, It is that the 
earth is expanding due to a weakening in the force of gravity. 
Astronomers have observed that the distant galaxies are re- 
ceding; this is referred to as the expansion of the universe. In 
1931 P. A. M. Dirac suggested that this expansion might be 
the result of a steady and universal decrease in the attraction 
due to gravity. If so, not only would the universe be expanding, 
but also the solar system and the earth and indeed everything 
in creation. At that time the origin of the universe was widely 
believed to have occurred two billion years ago. It was soon 
pointed out that the resulting rate of expansion would, a 
comparatively short geological period ago, have placed the 
earth so much closer to the sun that evidence of the higher 



190 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

temperature would be evident in the older rocks. Such evi- 
dence was not in fact there. Dirac's speculation was shelved 
until 195-% when R. H. Dicke recalled it and pointed out 
that the universe is now believed to be far older, that the rate 
of expansion need not have been so great, and that the heat- 
ing effects would not be noticeable in the geological record. 
He also pointed cut that the interior of the earth is greatly 
compressed by the weight of overlying material and that any 
reduction in gravity would lighten the load of overlying mat- 
ter, thus causing the earth to expand. Dicke could think of 
no experiment that could be performed in a physics labora- 
tory to prove or disprove this hypothesis, so he appealed to 
astronomers and earth scientists for help. "It would/' he said, 
"be truly remarkable if geology and astronomy could answer 
such a fundamental physical question about the gravitational 
interaction/' 

It had not occurred to many geologists before that the earth 
might be expanding, and it is still difficult to see how expan- 
sion could push up mountains. But the IGY disclosed the 
existence of great cracks in the ocean floor, and B. C. Heezen, 
who noticed the cracks, adopted this idea as an explanation 
of their existence. He considers that the rate of expansion is 
of the right order of magnitude to have produced the cracks. 

I shall return to this question again and present evidence 
from other fields. However, as yet we have not been able to 
solve the problem of the degree of permanent strength of the 
earth. No one knows with any certainty how the earth be- 
haves, why mountains are uplifted, how continents were 
formed, or what causes earthquakes. We know some anatomy 
of the earth, but no real physiology. Earth scientists are as 
ignorant of their patient as doctors were of theirs before Har- 
vey disclosed the circulation of the blood. But earth scientists 
are knocking on the doors of discovery; they await the answer. 



CHAPTER 17 



THE SOVIET UNION 



AUGUST 1958 

For any nation to have launched a satellite would have beei 
a remarkable feat, but it was a particularly great achievemen 
for the Russians. One hundred years ago the majority of th< 
Soviet people were illiterate serfs, chattels of the czar, of grea 
landowners or of independent Oriental khans. Their emer 
gence from ignorance, poverty, and defeat during the las 
forty-five years has been rugged, and they have not yet attainec 
Western standards of freedom. Why were these people back 
ward for so long? And how did they so quickly assume a lead 
ing place in science, as made manifest to all the world wher 
they launched the Sputniks as part of the IGY? 

From time immemorial one of the outstanding geographica 
features of Eurasia has dictated the history of Russia. This it 
the great natural highway which extends across central Asi 
and southern Russia, from Mongolia all the way to the gate; 
of Europe. This belt of fertile grassland, the steppes, skirfc 
the northern flanks of the mountains of central Asia anc 
Kazakhstan, sweeps through a passage between the Urals anc 
the Caspian Sea, and flows over the great plains of the Ukraine 



192 IGY : TheYear of the New Moons 

and Romania. It finally ravels out in a tangle of passes through 
the Polish marshes and the Carpathian Mountains. From ear- 
liest history by this route have come the invaders: Goths, 
Huns, Magyars, Turks, Mongols, and Tartars. Not until after 
the Tartar Empire of Genghis Khan had finally collapsed were 
the scattered nomads of these ravaged plains able to develop 
settlements and unite. 

To the north of these great steppes vast forests engulfed 
and held prisoner isolated pockets of Slavs and Scandinavians. 
Slowly and ruthlessly the princes of one city, Moscow, ex- 
tended their autocratic domination in spreading rings about 
their capital, swallowing one isolated community after an- 
other until their dominion stretched over the Urals to the 
Bering Sea and across the great southern plains. In 1 884, with 
the conquest of the farthest deserts of Turkestan, the great 
Russian Empire was complete, stopped from further expan- 
sion to the south by mountains and by the armies of British 
India, to the west by Germany and Austria, and to the east 
by the Chinese in Manchuria. The Russian Empire, which is 
now the Soviet Union, is thus a comparatively new country. 

This vast land is far from homogeneous, for it incorporates 
many varied and restless peoples, including 25,000,000 Mos- 
lems. They speak a great variety of languages. They have never 
known freedom or democracy. Until this last generation few 
could read or write or travel farther than they could walk from 
their native village. Their history had been one of unmitigated 
horror and misery. It seems fair to say that today the average 
Soviet citizen is better educated, freer, and wealthier than 
his ancestors ever were. He certainly has better hopes for the 
future. For this, two tyrants are chiefly responsible: Peter the 
Great and Stalin. Peter introduced European civilization to a 
small group of aristocrats and professional men; Stalin intro- 
duced it to the Russian masses. He may have killed millions 
and been hated by tens of millions, but he was cast in the 



THE SOVIET UNION 193 

old tradition of the czars who ruthlessly imposed the great- 
est and most significant changes upon Russia. The success of 
the Soviet revolution was demonstrated to the world by the 
launching of Sputnik. 

Because of this success, the IGY was acclaimed in the So- 
viet Union by government and people alike. Anyone coming, 
as I did, in connection with the IGY was free to meet Soviet 
scientists and to see their \vork. As a consequence, it was my 
good fortune to visit geophysical parties working where the 
forest meets the steppes in the oil fields of the Volga plains, 
to see earthquake observatories in the Caucasus, to examine 
institutes and universities in Peter's City, Petrograd, now re- 
named Leningrad, and to attend conferences in Moscow', the 
ancient capital, which Stalin restored as the heart and centre 
of all the Russias. Finally I left the Soviet Union by the slow 
length of the Trans-Siberian Railway. From these various 
points of vantage I caught intimate glimpses of both Russian 
science and Russian people many of whom struck me as 
ebullient, forceful, modern reincarnations of the Horatio Alger 
hero. 

Soon after my arrival I arranged, through the good offices 
of Dr. V. Fedynski, who had visited the Alberta oil fields the 
year before, to see a deep-sounding seismic party investigating 
the crust of the earth around the Tuimasi oil fields, the largest 
in the U.S.S.R. Very, very early on an August morning, in 
spite of the assurances of the Canadian Embassy that no 
Westerner would be allowed to visit the provinces of Tartaria 
and Beskeria, I flew from Moscow with Vladimir Orichenko, a 
cheerful and sophisticated technical interpreter, and Michael 
Davidchev, a shy engineer. At dawn, as we circled to land at 
Kazan, we saw the great Kuibishef Sea, a hydroelectric storage 
lake on the Volga River, and the Kazanski Kremlin, an ancient 
fortress of the forest edge. 

At Ufa, where the foothills of the Urals are still scarcely 



194 I G Y : The Year of the Xeiv A loons 

perceptible, we landed again to be met by three members of 
the Tuimasi Expedition. In the Expedition's two small 
YAK-12 planes, fiown by U.S.S.R- Air Force pilots (there is 
no other kind of pilot in Russia * , we were taken to the head- 
quarters, a collection of wooden buildings on the edge of 
Tuirnasi, a new town whose dominant features are brick blocks 
of flats, several sprouting refineries, and a lamp-black factory. 

For the next four days Urey Goudin, the Communist Stalin 
Prize winner, showed Tuzo Wilson, the capitalist professor, 
even-thing about his expedition. He told me that he had never 
had a non-Russian visitor before, and his attitude suggested 
that he regarded me, a representative of capitalism, as axio- 
matically an effete and dangerous exploiter of the downtrod- 
den. Nevertheless, orders had come sifting down to him from 
the upper reaches, and he showed me everything I wished to 
see of his party and its work. He was forty-six years old, capa- 
ble, and hard-driving. He had been an oil man all his life and 
seemed not a little surprised and put out when I told him that 
I, a capitalist, had started summer work when I was fifteen 
years old two years before he had, 

He had 1,100 people, 200 vehicles, and a budget of 20 mil- 
lion roubles a year (equal to $5 million at the official rate of 
exchange and not less than $2 million in purchasing power.) 
These he directed in the investigation of geological formations 
of the largest size scores and hundreds of miles across 
hidden beneath the plains. Other parties followed to look for 
the oil pools themselves. In the winter the whole party moved 
south to continue similar researches in the deserts of Turke- 
stan. Crustal studies of a like nature were undertaken in many 
areas of the world as part of the IGY seismic program. 

For four days we travelled by jeep and by plane, visiting 
his work parties. From the air we could spot the special ve- 
hicles and lines of instruments which made them unmistak- 
able. We landed in stubble fields beside several, and I have 



THE SOVIET UNION 195 

no doubt that the geophysical exploration which we saw was 
genuine and unstaged. The most interesting and picturesque 
party was one at which we had not intended to land at all 
We did so because due to rain and a late start our timetable 
had been disrupted, and by evening we were still far from base 
and had not had a bite to eat or a drop to drink for twelve 
hours. It is possible that Goudin was expecting his capitalist 
visitor to collapse, but I was so fascinated at watching his 
scientific teams at work that I had not noticed the passing of 
time. At seven o'clock we landed to see a part} 7 and took a 
swim at the junction of the Belaya and Kama Rivers. After 
that Goudin radioed ahead to one of his prospecting parties 
that we would land in twenty minutes and wanted supper. 

The pilot set down our light plane in a field beside a thresh- 
ing machine. Men and women were working together to bring 
in the harvest, and a tractor provided the power. Geophysicists 
met us with a jeep and drove us a couple of hundred yards 
to a camp at the edge of the forest where a party of twenty- 
were living in tents. The cook asked whether we wanted our 
eggs boiled or fried, and while she cooked them, we looked 
at each tent. All had aluminum cots, reasonable bedding, and 
in the dining tent were a table and some folding chairs. As 
we sat down, I noticed that each place was set with a bowl 
and a mug, a big spoon and a small one. We had black 
bread, soup made of cabbages, potatoes, and dried meat (there 
being no refrigeration), and ate boiled eggs in their shells. 
The tea was sweetened with huge lumps of sugar and a syrup 
made of boiled wild cherries. The Russians said that they liked 
their tea 4< hot, strong, and sweet like kisses/' to which I sug- 
gested that they should add the word "often." The cook con- 
tinued to protest that she had not had time to prepare a proper 
meal, so we had clearly had what was left from the workers' 
supper. I would not have minded working in the camp and 
indeed, thinking of my own days in the Canadian woods when 



196 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

we travelled by canoes, not trucks, I said: "We didn't have 
beds in our camps." To this they replied: "But you did not 
go prospecting in 1958." I do not think that they have long 
had such comforts. 

The fine-looking people who inhabit this region are, I was 
told, Tartars, descendants of the Golden Horde. "They are 
the best workers," said the leader of the expedition. Some had 
been trained locally for prospecting. Half were men and the 
other half shy, pretty girls who retired into the background 
after being introduced. Even-one was in Western dress shirts 
and trousers for the men, and slacks or simple dresses for the 
girls. 

It was peaceful standing at the forest edge after supper and 
looking out at the slanting light of the evening sun. The leader 
of the Tartars was a stalwart man with almost orange hair, 
light blue-green eyes, very red cheeks, and the bull neck and 
rather flat upright face we associate with the word "huns." 

When I remarked to him on the beauty of the rolling fields 
of grain, he replied: "We are not ashamed to admit that this 
is our country. All races are equal in the Soviet Union now!" 
I felt that his obvious enthusiasm owed nothing to Commu- 
nism, but that his feelings were the same as those of the na- 
tives of Texas, of Alberta, and of Arabia when the discovery 
of oil brought new jobs and new wealth to local people. 

During these four days we flew back and forth for 1,000 
miles through the heart of the Russian steppes the vast 
tract that lies between the Kama River and the Urals. As I 
travelled over those endless plains, my first impression was 
that the country could have changed but little in the centuries 
since it was first settled. The scattered and isolated villages 
are all alike: Identical mud roads are lined with little log cabins 
with thatched roofs and tiny windows brightened by frames of 
painted fretwork. Behind each cabin, enclosed by a picket 
fence, is a tiny barn, a chicken yard, a cabbage patch and as 



THE SOVIET UNION 197 

long a field of potatoes as a man can dig and harvest in the 
evenings. The wide and muddy street is the stage on which 
the life of the village is played. Children swarm over it all day, 
and in the evenings their elders stroll along it or sit and gossip 

on the benches before their houses. Thev build their houses 

*f 

on it. These cabins are fashioned of fir or aspen logs. In the 
course of time, as the logs rot and the cabin is in imminent 
danger of collapse, a new one is built in the middle of the 
village street. One day the old one is knocked down and the 
new one shoved into its place. 

Each nightfall the life of the village street rises to a crash- 
ing crescendo when the small boys return from the uplands 
driving the flocks and herds before them. Stampeding down 
the street, the cattle come; and glorious chaos reigns until each 
animal is sorted out and herded into its proper barn. 

As we flew over the plains, I sa\v the little villages edging 
the streams, and between them the flat uplands marked out in 
fields of wheat and rye, oats and barley, and occasionally corn 
and sunflowers. In the south on the Orenburg steppe are broad 
stretches of wheat country like our own prairies. Farther north 
the ground is wooded. The villages are surrounded by dense 
forest, a great, green carpet only occasionally marred by a 
clearing, like a moth hole, each with its wood-cutter's cottage 
surrounded by neat piles of cord wood. All this we saw, hour 
after hour, in unending repetition. I watched the geese rear 
up and flap their wings, saw the sparrows whirl from the 
threshing floor, waved at the little boys swimming in the river, 
and marked the lone thatcher harvesting his reeds in the 
swamp. I watched the sheep and goats stampede amongst 
the unconcerned cattle beneath the shadow of our plane. 

A question that greatly interested me was how far the Rus- 
sian form of Western industrial revolution had affected the 
villages of the steppes. First and most striking is the fact that 
every field I passed gave evidence that the whole task of plow- 



198 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

ing, harvesting, and seeding had been mechanized. I saw 
hundreds of tractors working in the giant fields. I counted 
thirty-eight in one half-hour, but I did not see a single plow or 
combine drawn by horses. In only three cases did I see men 
reaping by hand and all were in odd corners, river banks for in- 
stance, where tractors could not penetrate. Horse-drawn carts 
Were used for drawing crops and for family transport, but there 
were also many large farm trucks. There were no private cars, 
but a few bicycles and motorcycles. 

The recent abolition of the State tractor stations was men- 
tioned two or three times and was evidently regarded as im- 
portant. I gathered that it was not only a sign of an increasing 
liberal attitude on the part of the Government but also a 
sign that there were plenty of tractors and that all farmers 
were accustomed to their use. The tractors were rather rough- 
looking, but they pulled a span of five plows through the rich 
black soil without any trouble. 

The second thing I noticed was the widespread rural elec- 
trification in these remote plains. At least half the villages 
we passed were reached by rows of wooden poles carrying a 
three-wire electric system very far from the power houses on 
the Volga and the main steel transmission lines. The elec- 
tricity was carried down each street on poles, and we were 
often low enough to discern the two wires leading from the 
poles into the tiny thatched cabins. It is true that by our stand- 
ards the power was limited, with only one street light for a 
whole street and only a bare bulb in each room, but it was 
an enormous advance over candles, and it meant power in the 
barns and in village workshops. The harnessing of the Volga 
had brought comfort to the people of these remote villages 
as well as power to industry. 

The third thing I noticed was the change in housing. The 
smallest and most remote villages had scarcely been affected; 
the cabins in those places had not changed much in style. 



THE SOVIET UNION 199 

But in the larger villages and especially near towns tar paper 
and metal roofs were replacing the thatch and bark of old. 
Perhaps a third of the cottages had modern roofs and a few 
in the most prosperous villages were brick. More conspicuous 
in every large settlement were the new sheds in the shape of 
an H or a T, which I supposed were for cattle owned by the 
State. In most cases these sheds supplemented older thatched 
sheds. 

In the larger villages there were also schools or halls and 
occasionally a church- As far as I could make out, many of 
the latter were abandoned; some may have been continuing 
with a much reduced activity. One we passed on the ground 
was a ruin. I remarked on this, and my companion replied: 
"Of course, what would you expect?" But he did add: "A few 
are now being restored/ 7 and this was indeed true. 

Outside the villages were cemeteries in which the graves 
were individually fenced in the Russian fashion; some were 
painted blue and some had crosses on them. More had plain 
tombstones; the choice was apparently optional. I also saw this 
mixture in a cemetery outside Moscow, but there the most 
ardent party members had added grave markers shaped like 
obelisks, surmounted by a vertical pointer and star the whole 
painted bright scarlet. They certainly brighten up a graveyard. 

I avoided getting into discussions about such controversial 
subjects as politics, religion, and economics, and so did not 
discuss the organization of life in the country, but from what 
I could see the villages were where they had always been, 
neither growing nor diminishing very much. The towns and 
cities had grown enormously, but in the villages the difference 
was one of organization. What had been called a village 
was now a collective farm with a different arrangement of 
ownership and payments. 

The unending procession of villages on the seemingly in- 
finite plain appeared to explain a great deal about Russia, for 



2oo I G Y : The Year of the Xeiv Moons 

suddenly I realized that most of the people governing the 
U.S.S.R. today must have grown up in such surrounding as 
this. I thought that their isolation had much to do with their 
suspicion; their poverty with their toughness; and their hard- 
ship with their crudity. For centuries these villagers had little 
to thank the world for. Until 1861 they had been landless 
serfs. Governments were represented only by tax collectors. 
Shops and industry had scarcely existed for them. Foreign af- 
fairs meant but the recruiting and often the loss of their men 
at war. The nobility and the wealthy were envied and hated 
where they were known, but in these remote plains the owners 
of great estates and their castles were as scarce as they are in 
Saskatchewan. The Church gave solace to the aged, but it 
failed to educate the young or to mitigate the hardships of 
life on this earth. 

We in the West have been so horrified by the many excesses 
of the revolution and so often frightened by the threats to 
peace made by its leaders that we do not realize that the 
revolution was essentially a Western movement. Its creed was 
written by a German living in England; Marx never visited 
Russia. In 1917 its first leader, Lenin, was brought back to 
Russia by the Germans from years in exile. His aim was a com- 
plete industrial and political revolution along lines developed 
in the West but going much further. As we passed the hydro- 
electric developments, my colleagues recited Lenin's creed in 
his own words: "Soviet power is socialism plus electrification 
of the Russian State." In Russia today this desire for Western 
ways is apparent everywhere. It is a sincere compliment to us, 
if a wry and undesired one. 

The Western influence is not the only non-Russian one in 
the Soviet Union. Anyone who has seen the Moisiev Folk 
Dancers is aware that there are Soviet people other than Rus- 
sians. Indeed the performances which I have seen of the Moi- 
siev, Romanian, and Chinese folk dance troupes suggest that 



THE SOVIET UNION 201 

no Russians, Romanians, or Chinese ever dance, only Byelo- 
russians, Ukrainians, Poles, Uzbeks, Moldavians, Bessarabians, 
Bulgars, Tartars, Mongols, Tibetans, and other border folk. 
It seems probable that the directors of all these troupes have 
been trained in the same school for the same propaganda pur- 
poses. 

Not only does one see these national minorities on the stage, 
but one meets them when travelling; and I discovered how 
strongly these people feel when I flew from Moscow for a 
week-end to Tiflis, capital of the Georgian Republic, now mag- 
nanimously enough called by its Georgian name, Tbilisi. I 
had not been there five minutes when the Georgians made it 
quite clear even through the filter of a Russian Intourist in- 
terpreter that they were not Russians, never had been Rus- 
sians, and did not like to be mistaken for Russians. With con- 
siderable hauteur they explained that the Georgian kingdom 
had been founded six centuries before Russia existed, that 
they had been converted to Christianity and had developed 
a written language with its own exotic alphabet five centuries 
before the Russians had become acquainted with either, and 
that they had only joined Russia a hundred and fifty years 
ago to save themselves from the Persians. 

I went to Georgia because I had been baulked in an attempt 
to go to Samarkhand and Bokhara. Intourist had told me flatly 
that because of the crisis which then existed in Jordan and 
Lebanon all of Turkestan was closed except for Tashkent and 
that it would be quite impossible for me to go to Samarkhand. 
I gathered that Tashkent had little historic interest and less 
charm, and was not a place the discriminating traveller 
would choose to spend a week-end. I had, therefore, settled 
for Georgia. The week-end in Georgia came in a neat de luxe 
package at $30 a day, which included an interpreter and a car 
to drive up into the Caucasus* It was a very rewarding $6o*s 
worth. 



I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

a Friday morning early in August my interpreter drove 
; to Moscow airport and dutifully stood waving until the 
J-104 took off. She had been instructed to see me safely on 
r way to Georgia, and her mission could not be considered 
:ornplished until I was airborne. 

Fhe interior of the jet had all the stuffed opulence and com- 
t of a Victorian Pullman car, and my travelling compan- 
i$, to judge from the script of the newspapers they were 
ding, were almost all Georgians. They are an exceptionally 
idsome people: the women tall, serene, and dark; the men 
h a fine, swashbuckling air, well fitted to be the prototypes 
:he Caucasian race. 

Until we reached the Caucasus the land was but an unre- 
rkable pattern of hazy green and yellow squares cut by 
sams, so I gave my undivided attention to my lunch: 
iar and biscuits, chicken with tomatoes and rice, wine, 
ndy, and tea. The meal took on the element of the Mad 
i Party when the woman sitting across the aisle from me 
;hed her finger tips in the dregs of her tea. 
Two hours and 1,100 miles later I looked down from 33,000 
t on the great peaks of Elbruz and Kasbek, the tallest 
un tains of Europe, 18,000 feet of craggy magnificence, 
rhe descent to the airfield at Tiflis was hair-raising, a suc- 
>ion of tilted glimpses of wild chasms and inhospitable 
sides that appeared through breaks in the great thunder- 
ds that puffed and mounded all around us. Eventually, the 
>t found a hole in the clouds that suited him and down we 
it to slam to a stop with smoking tires at the exact end of 
indersized concrete runway. 

leveral seismologists, one of whom had been at the Toronto 
stings, met me with an Intourist car and interpreter, and 
rther we toured the sights of the town: various old forts 
ancient churches, a university with large new dormitories, 
jampagne factory, and a fine amusement park reached by 



THE SOVIET UNION 203 

an ancient funicular railway. All the churches there, unlike 
those in Moscow, were full of people morning, afternoon, and 
night. They were not shy in showing their devotion but got 
down on their knees and waved their arms in exhortation be- 
fore silver ikons and elaborate altars. Alone in the evening 
I sought out the academy at which Stalin had trained for the 
priesthood. It slightly resembles a Greek temple and is now 
a museum devoted to Stalin's life. Many of the men in Tbilisi 
wore Georgian jackets cut in the style worn by Stalin, but ev- 
eryone else was in drab, Western dress, except a few Kurdish 
women dressed in yellow, orange, scarlet, or pale-green skirts 
and blouses. With scarves in their hair and many bangles, they 
looked like gypsies strayed from some opera. 

My hotel, in which I had been granted a suite, was like 
a Moorish palace with poor plumbing, but the restaurant was 
excellent, with good food and wine. The atmosphere was bois- 
terous and the company lively; corks popped, toasts rang out, 
and waiters streaked through the room with meat sizzling on 
skewers, filling the air with smoke and the smell of good food. 
On my first appearance in the dining room, I was hailed with 
delight by an ancient man who still had some remnants of 
English left to him from a trip he had made many years before 
to the United States. He dragged me over to his table to have 
a drink. His companions, brawny, uninhibited types with 
gargantuan appetites, did not share my new-found friend's en- 
thusiasm for me and one stormily refused to drink with me. 
I eased gently away and promptly became involved with a 
company every bit as intriguing as the one I had just left. It 
was a group of Americans, led by an earnest old gentleman 
who told me that he was a close personal friend of John Foster 
Dulles and that he was leading a peace mission through Rus- 
sia. I found this a very entertaining idea and suggested that 
we should drink to the success of their mission. They were 
politely shocked when I offered them a glass of wine and, 



204 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

like the Georgians before them., refused to drink with me. I re- 
gretted that to make the best use of my stay in Georgia and 
to enjoy the excellent red Haranschara, I had to become a 
solitary drinker. 

Sadly I retreated upstairs to the Moorish splendour of my 
suite. I pulled back the faded velvet curtains from the tall win- 
dows of my sitting room and looked by moonlight into the 
gardens and the graveyard of the cathedral set with cypresses 
and hibiscus plants. Whatever my lack of appeal as a drinking 
companion, at least I could take comfort from the thought 
that my rebuffs had taken place in a corner of the world I 
had long hoped to see. Southward over the mountains of Ar- 
menia and Ararat lay Persia; to the west, past the orange 
groves of the Circassian shore, lay Byzantium; while eastward, 
past the oil fields of Baku and the Caspian Sea, were the fabled 
cities of Turkestan. 

My nostalgia was for the romantic Orient described by the 
adventurers who had opened it to Western eyes stories which 
glossed over the cruelty, the disease, the poverty, and the stag- 
nation of those lands. The inhabitants, whose experience was 
more bitter, looked on Western progress as a dream. Now 
awakened, they were pursuing this dream. They gratefully fol- 
lowed Communism, not for its ideology, but for the lead it had 
given them and for the path it promised, through science, to 
a better life. 

Next morning, when the geophysicists of the Georgian 
Academy of Science took me to see their library, their seismo- 
graphs, and their maps, and discussed with me their work on 
drought and irrigation, we felt for a time that we were follow- 
ing the same path. For the moment it did not matter that 
we came from different beginnings and were pursuing different 
ends. 

The building in which the Academy was housed was new 
but already beginning to show signs of disintegration, for the 



THE SOVIET UNION 205 

parquet floor had shrunk, the railings were loose, and the con- 
crete poor; on the other hand, the instruments were ade- 
quate and the library and the scientific work excellent. On fine 
maps of the region they had plotted the locations of all the 
many earthquakes, and they followed the changing centres of 
seismic activity with care. They knew that earthquakes occur 
more frequently at some places than at others, and they had 
discovered that the locations at which earthquakes occur most 
frequently move about. Recently the worst areas had been 
Socchi, Mount Ararat, and a line along the Caucasus Moun- 
tains. All this they duly reported to the World Data Centre in 
Moscow for international exchange. 

The library, as I said, was excellent, and I noticed Nature, 
Proceedings of the Royal Society, American Journal of Science, 
Annales de Geophysique and many other well-known Western 
journals. Their own publications were printed in both Russian 
and Georgian. I admired the handsome antique script of the 
latter so much that they gave me copies of each edition. 

At noon when I returned to the director's office to make my 
formal farewells, a sight confronted me such as I have never 
seen before in a geophysical laboratory. A table was spread 
with bowls of peaches, plums, pears, nectarines, apricots, and 
great bunches of grapes, and bottles of champagne and 
brandy. We sat down and toasted one another, our countries, 
our friends, and our work with the greatest gaiety and en- 
thusiasm, nor would they let me leave until I had sampled 
every one of their delicious local fruits and much of their ex- 
cellent wine* Their system beats coffee breaks. 

With my three attendant seismologists and the interpreter, 
I climbed heavily into the car, supplied with my de luxe ticket, 
and rolled off toward the Caucasus Mountains. For many years 
there has been a military highway that stretches across the 
heart of the mountains between Tbilisi and Ordjonikidze, and 
we drove up this road to the pass. Overcome by the unac- 



206 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

customed laboratory supplies, I slept peacefully for an hour 
and did not waken until we reached Mtskheta, the ancient 
capital of Georgia. According to tradition this city, now only 
a small town nestling at the foot of the hills, takes its name 
from a grandson of a great-grandson of Noah. Mount Ararat, 
suitably enough, lies 200 miles to the south. Certainly it is a 
very old town, for it was known to Alexander the Great, Pom- 
pey, Trajan, and many other invaders who at one time or other 
conquered the country. 

We went through the cathedral, first built in A.D. 330 when 
the Georgians were converted to Christianity. Its fortified 
walls bear evidence of its long history of invasion, for they 
show signs of repeated damage and rebuilding. A few artisans 
were rather casually cleaning off the plaster and restoring the 
ancient frescoes and mosaics in the interior. 

We continued on our way up the narrow fertile valleys to 
the bare slopes of the mountains, the country becoming in- 
creasingly more rugged and beautiful as we climbed. Alongside 
the road ran a telegraph line which, they told me, was the old 
line that once linked Britain with India. Our way wound up 
through little villages entirely built of stone and tile, with here 
and there an ancient watch-tower. The fine, handsome resi- 
dents were diligent but unhurried; the old men stopped work- 
ing on the roads to watch us pass, and the handsome girls set 
down loads of hay and faggots that they were carrying on 
their backs down the mountain and tossed free their thick 
black braids of hair. 

We stopped for supper in one of the villages. On the out- 
skirts a group of children were encamped, Young Communist 
Pioneers, the Soviet equivalent of Boy Scouts. The inn and 
its ivied porch were crowded with local people, but we sat in 
a pavilion in the garden and dined surrounded by the sight 
and fragrance of flowers and blue wood-smoke drifting up the 
sunset hillside. It was a festive ending to my week-end in 



THE SOVIET UNION 207 

Georgia. We started with sliced tomatoes covered with fresh 
mint, parsley, onions, peppers, and herbs, and a cool drink 
made of tangerines; then hot bread in flat slabs, thick and 
crusty from a stone oven and spread with salty goat's cheese 
instead of butter; next, mutton soup with tomatoes, spices, 
and rice from Azerbaijan, washed down with white Tetra 
wine. After a pause the cook came running through the inn 
door and across the court, brandishing smoking fillets of veal 
on two long skewers. The next time he appeared he bore a 
great platter of broiled chickens, surrounded by potatoes and 
cucumbers and more wine, a sweet red KinsmarhulL The feast 
ended with a compote of stewed cherries and plums and cups 
of black Turkish coffee. 

Early next morning I flew back to Moscow, well content 
with my trip. I had met a charming and individual people 
and seen the beauty of their country. My brief examination of 
their rugged and magnificent mountains had confirmed my 
own belief that the Caucasus, like the Carpathians and the 
Rockies, are made predominantly of sedimentary rocks and 
thus differed fundamentally from the Apennines or the Sierra 
Nevada, which are composed of volcanic and plutonic rocks. 
The Caucasus had their birth in the ocean, the Apennines 
and the Sierra Nevada in the heat of the earth's interior. Such 
volcanism as there has been in the Caucasus is incidental. 

During another break in the Moscow meetings, I went to 
see Leningrad. Several kind Moscow geophysicists escorted me 
to the Red Arrow Express. They boarded the train and saw 
me safely ensconced in a comfortable two-berth sleeping car. 
As there was plenty of time, I asked them to sit down, and 
they gladly helped me polish off my remaining Scotch whiskey. 
As the train pulled out, they left me in the capable hands of 
interpreter Orichenko and an engineer. The porteress on our 
car brought us caviar sandwiches. These finished, we slept 
peacefully in this, the crack Russian express. For those not 



208 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

familiar with the colour of the Soviet scene, I might remark 
that the Red Arrow is the only blue train in the U.S.S.R.; the 
others are green. 

More geophysicists met me in Leningrad with a Zim car, 
and after installing me in the old Astoria Hotel, insisted 
that we tour the city before seeing any institutes. This was 
not because they were holding back, for later I had long for- 
mal tours of institutes, but because Leningradians love their 
city. It was founded by Peter the Great. Peter was a giant in 
stature, 6 feet 7 inches tall and possessed of demonic energy. 
When he came to the throne, Russia was a backward and semi- 
Asiatic autocracy. Forty years later when he died his kingdom 
was even more surely an autocracy, but the elements of West- 
ern education, industry, and military strength had been intro- 
duced. He had broken the power of the orthodox church and 
made it subservient to the czars. 

In 1702 this formidable man captured the coast of the 
Gulf of Finland from the Swedes and started the building 
of this western European city. With his own hands he built a 
hut and a rowboat with which to explore the delta of the Neva 
and choose the sites for his city, for his shipyards, and for the 
great fortress of St. Peter and St. Paul. Proudly they showed 
me all these and many other relics of Peter which are venerated 
and carefully preserved today. Although the name of the city 
has been changed to Leningrad, it is still the city of Peter 
and the czars to its inhabitants. The scientists often used the 
czarist names for bridges and parks rather than the new and 
colourless revolutionary names. 

It is indeed a beautiful city, built like Paris on the banks of 
a river, in much the same grand style, at the same time, and 
by many of the same western European architects. The in- 
habitants' affection for the city does not stem from enthu- 
siasm for the great writers and revolutionaries who fought the 
czars in the last century. They were scarcely mentioned. Nor 



THE SOVIET UNION 209 

is it associated with the Great October Revolution of 1917 
of which Leningrad was the scene. True, the Aurora was 
pointed out to me as the cruiser from which the first shot was 
fired, but I was not taken aboard. We visited the Smolni 
School for Daughters of the Nobility, in which Lenin had de- 
clared the revolution. They pointed out the Kirov factory, in 
which he was shot, and we watched the naval vessels moored 
in the river and dressed with flags to celebrate Red Navy Day. 
All these struck me as casual references to local sights of no 
more intrinsic interest than the occasional battle scars from 
the German siege. What fascinated the Russian mind were 
the great monuments left by the later czars during the two 
centuries of autocratic tyranny when they tried the impossible 
feat of changing Russia to a Western state while retaining a 
completely dictatorial form of government over an enslaved 
population. 

The whole mockery was exemplified by Peter's fortress in 
the Neva River. Two tremendous walls, one within the other, 
ring a whole island and enclose a rough greensward on which 
stand the golden-spired cathedral, the Russian mint, and a 
blacksmith's shop. In the cathedral are buried Peter and his 
successors. In the mint they still coin money. In the black- 
smith's shop political prisoners of the czars were manacled 
for transportation to Siberia. The walls of the fortress are lined 
with cells. These three buildings mark the keys to czarist 
control: a subservient church, ruinous taxation, and brutal op- 
pression. 

The gates to the fortress and the doors to the prisons have 
been symbolically removed, but all else has been refurbished, 
gilded, and put on display for tourists. 

Sunday we devoted to the Peterhof, summer palace of the 
czars, founded beside the Baltic Sea by Peter, captured and 
destroyed in 1942 by the Germans, but now completely rebuilt 
in replica of the original plans of Le Blanc. My colleagues in- 



210 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

troduced me to the chief engineer who described the plumbing 
of the 129 fountains which he had just finished rebuilding. He 
mentioned that 160 pounds of pure gold had been used to gild 
the hundreds of statues in the gardens. The rebuilding of such 
a palace had nothing to do with Communist doctrine. It 
was pure nationalism. 

We toured the Winter Palace, designed by Rastrelli for 
Peter's daughter, the Empress Elizabeth. It is now a museum 
of the czars, full of their relics and particularly the relics of 
Peter: his tools, clothes, maps, and the mechanical gadgets 
in which he revelled. 

We saw the moated Micaelovski Palace, built as a safeguard 
by the Emperor Paul when he feared revolt. His fear was in- 
deed justified because he was strangled in the palace a week 
after its completion in 1801. His executioners were his per- 
sonal Semenovsky guards, the governor of his palace, and his 
own son, Alexander I. 

We spent an all-too-brief afternoon in I/Hermitage, gen- 
erally acknowledged to be the greatest collection of Western 
art in the world. I marvelled at the gallery of thirty-six Rem- 
brandts, the little-known Leonardos, the many rooms each 
devoted to one of the greatest French, Flemish, or Italian mas- 
ters. I discovered that my hosts, although scientists, not 
guides, were thoroughly familiar with many of the paintings 
and their artists. L'Hermitage was built a century ago by 
Nicolas I, successor to Alexander and inaugurator of the for- 
mal police state in Russia. 

Pent-up antagonism against the czars exploded in the bomb 
which in 1881 killed his son, Alexander II. "The Cathedral 
Built on Blood" now marks the spot of the assassination. Its 
sombre bulk, topped by multi-coloured bulbous domes, blocks 
what had once been a main street as effectively as horror at 
the murder blocked any chance of reform. 

After I had seen these palaces, after I had been taken to 



THE SOVIET UNION 211 

one terminus of the subway and had had to get out to admire 
every one of the ten stations before being picked up again at 
the other end, and after I had been scolded by an old woman 
gardener for walking on the grass to take photographs of a 
well-kept park, I began to appreciate the affection the people 
of Leningrad have for their city. I found myself stopping to 
pick up a cigarette butt I had carelessly thrown away on the 
sidewalk. 

The institutes were very proud of their old czarist tradition, 
but even more so of the progress they had made. As the di- 
rector of the All-Union Geological Institute pointed out to me 
during the six hours I spent with him: "This is the old Geo- 
logical Survey of Russia founded in the last century, and our 
headquarters are still in the original building. Of course, we 
have expanded a great deal. Whereas there were one hundred 
geologists, there are now ten thousand in Russia; or counting 
hydrogeologists and geophysicists, twenty-two thousand." 

I visited several of these institutes. They were engaged in 
training young geologists to prospect for oil in Siberia or for 
metals in European Russia, to develop new techniques, and 
so on. Their buildings were rather shabby, but their equipment 
was adequate and their libraries splendid, all catalogued in two 
alphabets, roman and Cyrillic. These shabby buildings were 
crowded with a bright and eager lot of students, and always 
there were anywhere from four to twenty scientists to show 
me the laboratories and discuss their work. At the Arctic In- 
stitute I talked with P. A. Gordienko, G. M. Nikolski, and 
Ya. Ya. Hakkel, all of whom had been recently in the Antarc- 
tic or the Arctic. They told me of the latest findings by the 
stations drifting in the Arctic Sea, of the discoveries by the 
research ship Ob between Greenland and Spitsbergen and 
their interpretation of the geology of the ocean floor based on 
soundings. 

In all these institutes the scientists were very generous with 



212 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

their time. Many showed me their work and went to great 
pains to explain it. Mine Deminitskaya, for example, had been 
considering the geology of the whole earth at once. She had 
made maps and sections of the crust so as to study it in three 
dimensions to a depth of 50 miles. I found her studies of some 
fundamental aspects of geology very exciting. She had brought 
her own translator, of whom she was very proud her sixteen- 
year-old son, kept out of school for the day. He had great 
ability and translated our technical conversation fluently both 
ways. In Russia some pupils are much better taught than oth- 
ers, for the children I was shortly to meet on the Trans-Siberian 
Railway had no such abilities, or at least did not show them. 

The Soviet scientists were as enthusiastic about developing 
their vast country and as excited about scientific discovery as 
are North Americans. Being well treated in material ways and 
much better off than they had ever been before, and having 
a strong and successful government which satisfied their na- 
tional pride, they were content. 

In only two respects did they seem to be at any great disad- 
vantage, but both were vital. Since, in effect, they all worked 
for the same state monopoly, they were frightened of doing 
the wrong thing, afraid of the boss, and inclined to be secre- 
tive and cautious, contrary to their natural impetuosity and 
warmth. Also, their studies of the earth had given them a great 
curiosity about other lands, which the state would rarely per- 
mit them to satisfy. It was difficult for them to get an internal 
passport to travel within the Soviet Union and virtually im- 
possible to get permission to travel outside unless they were 
bolstered with the excuse of an international meeting or an 
invitation to lecture. For such opportunities some of them 
asked my help. 

The Soviet State may be likened to an adolescent. From 
the point of view of older and more mature nations, it is 
sloppy in appearance, secretive in behaviour, unpredictable, 



THE SOVIET UNION 213 

sensitive, and brash. It is also inclined to show off, which is 
annoying when, on occasion, it happens to be right. But we 
must remember that the Soviet Union is experiencing the 
jubilation of youth, the satisfaction of newly won prosperity, 
the sense of importance, and the enjoyment of relative free- 
dom, while to other members of its bloc it has the appeal of 
a cocky leader. Fortunately, even as it flexes its muscles, the 
Soviet Union shows signs of a growing maturity; and nothing 
is better calculated to hasten a more co-operative and cautious 
attitude than the emergence of an even more populous rival in 
the east. 



CHAPTER 18 



EARTHQUAKES 



The study of earthquakes is called seismology. This is another 
subject which has been stimulated by military developments 
since the instruments which detect earthquakes can, under 
favourable circumstances, also detect large explosions. Great 
efforts are therefore being made to improve the sensitivity of 
the instruments and the methods of interpreting the results 
so that shocks caused by earthquakes and shocks caused by 
man-made explosions can be differentiated. 

Of all the vibrations which shake the earth, the largest 
and the most numerous are earthquakes, but volcanic erup- 
tions, large explosions, storms, and winds can also cause char- 
acteristic, if minor, disturbances. 

The earth is not immobile. Cracks, or faults, form in its 
upper parts. The slipping motion of one side of a fault relative 
to the other gives rise to an earthquake. Whenever a slip hap- 
pens, the ground is shaken and waves of vibration spread 
outwards and downwards in all directions. A single slip may 
move as much as 50 feet and cause tremendous havoc in the 
surrounding countryside. If the focus of the earthquake is deep 



EARTHQUAKES 215 

within the earth, it will be less noticeable. Every year thou- 
sands of earthquakes shake the whole earth. The great majority 
are imperceptible and can only be recorded with instruments 
called seismographs. All those of any consequence are now re- 
corded. 

Ideally, a seismograph should not rest on the ground, but 
should be set in space ready to record the passage of vi- 
brations beneath it. This is not practical, so the principle of 
inertia is employed. 

Anyone who has ever been swinging on an old farm gate 
when others have shaken the fence will recall that the gate 
does not at once respond to the movements of the fence. 
Seismographs use this principle. A pen or electrical recorder 
is attached to a large weight suspended like a gate, or deli- 
cately balanced on springs. When the ground starts to move, 
the weight does not respond quickly and the pen can trace 
a graph of the movement of the earth. 

When seismographs were first invented, it was discovered 
that pulses were produced not only by waves coming directly 
from the earthquake but also by other waves, which have 
bounced around and been reflected inside the earth. For ex- 
ample, fifteen minutes after an earthquake occurs in Japan, the 
first direct wave may be recorded in California, but after 
twenty-five minutes another pulse may be produced by a wave 
which has gone from Japan to the core of the earth and been 
reflected back from there to California. Thus, seismograph 
records contain many pulses, large and small, set against a 
background of irrelevant noises due to wind, waves, and hu- 
man disturbances such as traffic. It is the task of the seismolo- 
gist to pick out the pulses from the noise. By studying records 
obtained at many places from many earthquakes, seismolo- 
gists have been able to interpret the significance of the suc- 
cessive pulses and piece together the results to add to our 



216 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

knowledge of the nature of the earth's interior. In this manner 
the thickness of the crust has been measured and the depth to 
the hot, liquid core has been determined. 

Like gravity, seismology was a rather marginal activity of 
the IGY. There were several reasons for this. In the first place, 
unlike the weather, severe earthquakes are not a universal 
complaint. They are of crucial interest only in regions that 
suffer from them, and large ones occur infrequently and in a 
scattered fashion. In the second place, there already existed 
a world-wide network of six hundred seismological stations re- 
cording continuously; they already sent their reports regularly 
to Cambridge and Strasbourg, and they were simply requested 
to make special efforts to submit complete reports punctually 
to the World Data Centres in Washington, Moscow, and 
Strasbourg. To simplify and speed these reports, a special tele- 
graphic code, "Seismo," was developed and published. To sup- 
plement the information from existing stations, new stations 
were established in out-of-the-way places, especially in Ant- 
arctica and the Arctic. All countries were asked to undertake 
any special programs they could to measure the thickness and 
nature of the crust and to investigate the effect of wind and 
storms, which at stations near the sea produce continuous 
small vibrations known as microseisms. These are disliked by 
seismologists because they hide the pulses due to small earth- 
quakes. In Patagonia microseisms are so severe and continuous 
that a seismological station opened at Punta Arenas by the 
Chileans was closed when it was found to record microseisms 
nearly all the time. 

On the other hand, microseisms may be useful in meteorol- 
ogy, as J. MacDowall suggests in this report: "At Halley Bay, 
Antarctica, microseisms were only active during three summer 
months, particularly during on-shore winds. It was therefore 
concluded that the microseisms originated at the ice front and 



EARTHQUAKES 217 

that the cover of sea ice damped out this movement for three 
quarters of the year and stifled microseismic activity/' 

Crustal investigations are by their nature local, and ordinary 
explosive charges can be used to supplement the records ob- 
tained from earthquakes and speed the investigations. 

It was on such work that the Tuimasi expedition was em- 
ployed when I visited it on the Volga plains. By firing ex- 
plosives at some camps and recording the echoes at other dis- 
tant ones, they were plotting the echoes received from deep 
within the earth's crust and upper mantle to depths of 60 
miles. Other countries were engaged in similar investigations. 
Parties from the Carnegie Institution of Washington co- 
operated with local scientists in investigating the Colorado 
plateau and the Andes in Bolivia, Chile, and Peru. The re- 
moval by blasting of Ripple Rock, an obstruction to naviga- 
tion between the mainland of British Columbia and Van- 
couver Island, was recorded across the Rocky Mountains 
by Canadian Government parties and in Alberta by oil- 
company parties. Three large explosions of between 50 and 
100 tons each were fired during construction of hydroelectric 
projects in the Snowy Mountains of Australia. Records ob- 
tained at distances as great as 200 miles were interpreted to 
mean that the crust was 23 miles thick in that region. New 
Zealand seismologists were very active, using explosions to 
measure crustal thicknesses in their islands and using natural 
earthquake waves to estimate crustal thicknesses in Antarctica. 
They concluded that the larger, or eastern part, of Antarctica 
was a true continent and not just an archipelago. 

American parties measured the thickness of the layers be- 
neath the ocean floors in the Pacific and Atlantic, and with 
the help of Argentine, Brazilian, and Chilean vessels ex- 
plored the Scotia Sea, Drake Passage, and the coastal seas of 
South America. American and British parties co-operated in 



2i 8 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

coastal studies in the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden. French 
and Italian parties worked in the Mediterranean. Russian par- 
ties explored the floors of the sea of Ockotsk and the Kurile 
Trench. 

It is now well established that the crust of continents varies 
in thickness between 20 and 40 miles, but that beneath the 

oceans the crust is onlv about 3 miles thick. The crust is com- 

* 

posed of rocks with which we are familiar. They are lighter 
than those of the solid mantle beneath. 

In the closing years of the last century John Milne started 
the first world-wide network of seismological stations by writ- 
ing privately to friends all over the world. During the IGY seis- 
mologists relied for most of their data upon the great network 
of six hundred stations which had subsequently developed, but 
they became very conscious of its limitations. The operators of 
these stations had installed whatever instruments they had 
been able to make, buy 7 or borrow, with the result that there 
was a remarkable diversity of types. Obviously it would be of 
great advantage to have a uniform network of modern instru- 
ments, both to find out more about the inside of the earth and 
to enable even small nuclear explosions to be detected. There 
was not time during the IGY to introduce a complete new net- 
work nor even to agree upon the most suitable instruments to 
use, but some progress was made. 

Maurice Ewing of Columbia University installed his own 
sets of uniform seismographs at twenty stations scattered 
about the world, and the Communist countries had already 
settled upon two standard designs that they installed at all 
their stations. The ingenious proposal was made that seismo- 
graphs of special design should be placed on the sea floor. At 
present they are habitually installed in underground vaults to 
protect them from the noise of buffeting winds and the rumble 
of traffic, but the deepest vault cannot duplicate the quiet of 
the cold, still depths of the sea. The problem of an economical 



EARTHQUAKES 219 

method of recovering records from the sea floor has still to be 
perfected. 

Also under active consideration was the replacement of the 
old method of visual examination and measurement of records 
with some technique involving the use of computers to exam- 
ine the records more quickly and efficiently. 

Inherent in all these proposals were two questions: who 
would pay for the new and expensive installations, and would 
the world's seismological network by international agreement 
also form part of a system for detecting nuclear explosions. 

Thus, the close of the IGY saw unprecedented activity and 
interest in new methods for seismology; a start had even been 
made on the design of lunar seismographs to be placed on the 
moon by rockets. Old fashioned as the existing system of seis- 
mographs now appears, it has nevertheless disclosed a great 
deal of useful information about the earth's interior and it has 
shown that most of the world's greatest earthquakes occur 
along one of two very definite zones. The chief of these, which 
has been called the continental fracture system, lies in the 
shape of an inverted T folded about the earth. The stem encir- 
cles the Pacific Ocean from Antarctica to Indonesia through 
the Andes, the Cordillera of North America,, and East Asia. 
The cross of the T extends from the Alpine mountains of the 
Mediterranean through the Himalayas, Indonesia, and the 
Melanesian Islands to New Zealand. The system is scalloped 
into a series of great arcs of which the Aleutian Islands, Japan, 
and the Himalayas are examples. The earthquakes lie at 
depths of up to 450 miles on downward extensions of these 
arcuate fractures. Along this system are also found most of the 
world's greatest volcanoes. Most of them are composed largely 
of a rock called andesite after the Andes Mountains. It is gen- 
erally agreed that volcanoes are fed by lava rising along these 
faults. Faults and earthquakes show that the earth to at least 
the depth of the deepest earthquakes breaks in a brittle way. 



220 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

The only way to harmonize this behaviour with flow in the 
mantle is to suppose that pressures producing earthquakes 
build up much quicker than those producing flow, and that 
like pitch or ice the earth fractures under rapid forces but flows 
under the pressure of slower ones. 

During the IGY several nations took the opportunity to re- 
fine their knowledge of the distribution of earthquakes. Maps 
were prepared of Ecuador, Colombia, and Mexico, for exam- 
ple, showing the location of all known earthquakes and of 
large faults. These maps suggest which regions future earth- 
quakes are most likely to affect. 

In the course of American preparations for the IGY, Mau- 
rice Ewing and Bruce C. Heezen made the remarkable discov- 
er}' that another continuous major belt of earthquakes and 
volcanoes exists under the sea, and that these are associated 
with a great submarine ridge. Some parts of the ridge, like Ice- 
land, the Azores, the Carlsberg ridge in the Indian Ocean, and 
the Hawaiian Islands, had been known for a long time, and 
had been recognized to be seismically active. But no one had 
realized that they are all part of the same system and that it 
constitutes the greatest mountain range on earth. The tracing 
of this vast system was diligently pursued, and the discovery 
that it is continuous was one of the most notable achievements 
of the IGY. 

The mid-ocean ridge lies in the centre of the oceans midway 
between continents* The main ridge extends from the Arctic 
Sea right down the Atlantic Ocean and south of Africa into 
the Indian Ocean, thence south of Australia into the Pacific, 
where it forms several branches. This mid-ocean fracture sys- 
tem is different from the continental system. The lavas of its 
volcanoes are basalts and have a different chemical composi- 
tion, with more iron and magnesium and less silicon than the 
andesites of the continental fracture system. Earthquakes 
along the mid-ocean ridge occur to depths only one tenth as 



222 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

great as on the continental margin, for they are never deeper 
than 45 miles. There are no scalloped island arcs like the Aleu- 
tians or Japan. The discovery of this second great fracture sys- 
tem has given impetus to the search for the cause of volcanism, 
earthquakes, and the building of mountains. 

It was not part of the program of the IGY to try to formulate 
new theories for the behaviour of the solid earth, but the work 
done during the IGY made evident the need for revision of 
existing notions and provided bench-marks to measure future 
changes against. The discovery of the greatest mountain sys- 
tem on earth hidden beneath the oceans demonstrated how 
little we really know about our home, how much better we 
need to co-ordinate our studies. 

The many theories of the way mountains are built may be 
divided into four groups. These represent different ways of 
looking at the earth. 

The oldest theory, said to be due to Newton, has been cham- 
pioned by Sir Harold Jeffreys and may be regarded as deriving 
from a photographic image of the earth. The earth, like a 
photograph, retains a hard sharp image. It may be torn or 
crumpled, but it doesn't flow. According to this view, the earth 
is strong and brittle. Traditionally, it was once hotter and is 
still cooling and hence getting slightly smaller. This contrac- 
tion of a rigid earth is held to cause wrinkling of the surface, 
as does drying in an apple, but in the earth the wrinkles are 
called mountains. A. E. Scheidegger showed that this process 
could give rise to scalloped fractures and other details of the 
continental mountains and island arcs, and in this respect the 
theory provides a more complete explanation of mountain- 
building of the continental type than any other theory. Unfor- 
tunately, it was advanced before the discovery of the mid- 
ocean ridges and it has not been extended to explain them, nor 
is it compatible with the idea that the earth is recoiling from 




J 



4 

.1 



224 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

ice loads and adjusting to changes in its rate of rotation by a 
slow process of plastic flow. 

A second very different view about the earth was advanced 
about 1910 by A. Wegener. His view of the earth is like a 
painting by Picasso in which faces have been turned around 
or heads displaced relative to bodies. Wegener thought that the 
surface of the earth had been moved about and displaced by 
drifting of the continents. In particular he noticed that the 
continents had the same profile on opposite sides of the Atlan- 
tic Ocean and that the shores of the Red Sea were nearly paral- 
lel, and he suggested that these lands had been pulled apart in 
these places. No explanation was offered of the cause of these 
movements, and the idea of drift was not at all acceptable to 
the proponents of a strong earth. In the last few years, how- 
ever, the apparent flow after ice loading, the shifting of the 
poles suggested by the different directions of magnetization of 
old rocks, and the apparently tropical aspects of some fossils 
from polar regions have again revived ideas of extensive move- 
ments. Some geophysicists support this idea of continents 
drifting about, but others hold that the relative position of the 
continents has remained fixed and that only the crust as a 
whole has been displaced relative to the poles of the earth, or, 
looking at the question in another way, that the axis of rota- 
tion has moved about relative to the earth as a whole. 

A third theory was proposed by the Dutch geodesist F. A. 
Vening Meinesz. His view of the earth, like a painting by his 
compatriot Van Gogh, is one of swirling motion. He believes 
that the mantle of the earth below the crust is like pitch and 
that it is flowing in very slow convection currents which push 
up mountains. At present many geophysicists and geologists 
are rather attracted by this idea, but so far no one lias devel- 
oped it far enough to explain in any detail the structures found 
In mountains. Nevertheless, with this theory it may be possible 
to explain the existence of two kinds of mountains, for the con- 



EARTHQUAKES 225 

tinental mountains would have been pushed together where 
slow converging currents meet and descend, and mid-ocean 
ridges would have been raised and pulled apart where rising 
currents upwell and separate. Some features suggest this, but 
again no one has been able to fill in the details* 

We have already mentioned the most recent proposal of 
Dicke and Heezen that the earth may be expanding. This view 
can only be likened to an abstract painting of the earth. I don't 
know whether any anarchist in the last century drew pictures 
in which everything was exploding. If not, it would seem an 
appropriate theme for the avant-garde of the nuclear age to try. 
Such a painting would show what this school of geophysicists 
thinks may be happening to the universe and the earth. In any 
case, it is not a very fast expansion; a rate of increase of only 
one fiftieth of an inch a year would have added 1,000 miles to 
the earth's waist line since the oldest rocks were formed three 
billion years ago. 

To be frank, all of these theories, like diverse schools of art, 
have their good points and their weaknesses, and no one is yet 
quite sure where the truth lies. Probably it is more complex 
than any of the theories suggest. Deep convection currents and 
mobility of the poles relative to the earth's surface may cause 
blocks in the more brittle crust and upper mantle to move and 
Jostle. The earth at the same time could be expanding. Moun- 
tains and continents may in part be formed by the extrusion 
of lava and its conversion to crustal matter. That may indeed 
be the origin of the whole crust a scum squeezed from within 
the earth and reconstituted by the long-continued action of the 
weather and by mountain-building. 

A major handicap in these speculations is that we do not 
know much about the mantle. No one knows with certainty 
whether any samples of it reach the surface unaltered. So im- 
portant is this question that at the close of the IGY a group of 
American scientists proposed that a hole be drilled through the 



226 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

crust and into the mantle to obtain a sample. With samples of 
the mantle we may be able to understand why its melting pro- 
duces different kinds of lava in different places, and we may be 
able to discover whether it is likely to be capable of flow or 
not. 

The project has been called the Mohole after the Mohoro- 
vicic discontinuity, as the boundary between the crust and 
mantle is called in honour of the Jugoslav seismologist who 
first found evidence of it in earthquake records. Because the 
crust under the oceans is so much thinner than under the con- 
tinents, the drilling must be done on the floor of the deep 
ocean. In April 1961 a short preliminary hole, 601 feet deep, 
was successfully drilled off the Pacific coast of Mexico, but it 
will be some years before all the engineering difficulties can be 
overcome and a really deep hole is put down to the mantle. 

In the meantime, some geochemists think, though they can- 
not yet prove, that they have discovered samples of the mantle 
in diamond pipes. There two rare materials are found which 
have not melted and flowed like lava but which seem to have 
been shot up from the depths of the earth as solid fragments in 
volcanic explosions. These substances are the peculiar rock ec- 
logite and the mineral diamond. Both are formed as a result of 
very high pressures, and they may be samples of the mantle. 

Is it not strange that the only substance from the dark inte- 
rior of the earth which most people ever see is the brilliant 
diamond? 



CHAPTER 19 



CHINA, TAIWAN, 
AND JAPAN 



SEPTEMBER 1958 

I had plenty of time for reflection as I left Moscow, for I 
spent the next eight days and nights in a lower berth on the 
Moscow-Peking Express of the Soviet State Railway. For 
nearly a week the train followed the line of the famous old 
Trans-Siberian Railroad. No one on board admitted that he 
could understand or speak a word of English or French, but 
Georgi Khimish, an engineer, his wife, and son, with whom I 
shared the compartment as far as Omsk, were kind and polite. 
At intervals we smiled at each other, made signs, or laughed 
over the Russian lessons they set for me, but the result hardly 
amounted to conversation. When their places were taken by a 
rather starchy Air Force officer and his family, silence fell on 
our compartment. Any desire I had for conversation had to 
find expression in the few Russian words I had culled from a 
phrase book to order my meals from the plump and cheerful 
waitress in the dining car. 

Most of the passengers were Army and Air Force officers and 
their families. They paid no attention to me, or I to them, but 



228 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

when they all got off on the sixth day, as we were approaching 
the Chinese frontier, the train suddenly seemed deserted and 
empty, Siberia is barren and desolate enough, save for the large 
cities artificially created beside steel bridges that carried our 
train over the wide and turgid rivers, but at least Siberia has a 
few stunted trees, whereas the windswept hills of the north 
Manchurian border are bald-headed prairie. The departure of 
the officers, resplendent in dress uniform, epaulettes and med- 
als, left me to speculate why so many officers chose so bleak a 
spot for their destination. The only clues vouchsafed to me 
and to the handful of Chinese students remaining on the train 
were a few empty sidings and half -concealed spur lines, a col- 
lection of gasoline tanks, and a large power station. Nothing 
was to be seen but the hills, the sky, and the herds of cattle, 
the same now as they were to Genghis Khan's advancing 
hordes. 

The formalities at the border, which anywhere else would 
have seemed tedious and lengthy, excited me in this desolate 
spot, for they effected an abrupt transition from a remote but 
unmistakably European outpost into an Oriental station full 
of Chinese. By the time we reached Peking two days later, I 
had mastered chop-sticks and learned the Chinese for the three 
phrases handy in any country: "Please, thank you, and good 
day/' A welcoming party of scientists from the Academia Sin- 
ica met me at the station. Being discerning and considerate 
people, they offered me a bath, lunch, and a chance to catch 
my breath before discussing what I would like to see of Chi- 
nese geophysics. 

A few months earlier they had received my letter asking if I 
might return to Canada through China and see what they were 
doing in the IGY. My visit had been prompted partly by sheer 
curiosity and a desire to travel, and partly because the rival 
Academy in Taipeh had applied to join the IUGG as the rep- 
resentative of all China. The executive of the IUGG had 



CHINA, TAIWAN, AND JAPAN 229 

agreed that I should attempt to discover the facts of the situa- 
tion before any action was taken. No doubt the men in Peking 
were aware of this, although they never mentioned it. They 
were determined to prove that they controlled Chinese geo- 
physics and were doing a good job of promoting scientific 
work. That this was the case did not greatly surprise me. For 
the past few generations we have been so accustomed to the 
spectacle of a backward and prostrate China that it is easy to 
forget that they can make a good claim to have developed the 
foundations of science. 

Certainly this is true in geophysics, for their chronicles con- 
tain accounts of 8,165 earthquakes since 1189 B.C.; no other 
country has comparable records. In A.D. 132 Chung Hung in- 
vented the first seismoscope to register the occurrence of earth- 
quakes and indicate the direction to the centre of the disturb- 
ance, and he also produced an anemoscope for measuring wind 
direction and speed. About A.D. 233 a Chinese named Yuan 
discovered the magnetic compass and soon afterwards 
mounted this instrument on a cart, along with another resem- 
bling a speedometer, for the purpose of executing a road survey 
of China. By A.D. 1424 the Ming Emperors had equipped all 
the districts of China with rain-gauges. The flow of rivers and 
all floods were recorded systematically. These developments, 
together with the invention of paper in the first century AJX, 
of printing with movable type in the eighth century, of the 
first clock with accurate escapement mechanism, and of explo- 
sives (essential in seismic methods of prospecting), helped 
lay the foundations of geophysics. This has not been forgotten 
by the modern Chinese, for during my travels I frequently saw 
models of the early instruments in museums. 

This was all ancient history. What I had come to see was the 
state of geophysics in 1958, and I wanted to be sure that what 
I saw was genuine. The scientists told me that they had ar- 
ranged a tour which would take me to universities and insti- 



230 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

tutes in Peking, Shanghai, Nanking, Hanchow, and Canton. I 
welcomed the chance to see Peking, and I had no objection to 
visiting Canton, since I was to leave from nearby Hong Kong. 
But at the risk of a rebuff I told my hosts that I did not think 
there were great opportunities for geophysics in the other cities 
and that I thought the trip included too much sight-seeing. I 
gently explained that since my sole object was to see geophys- 
ics, I should prefer to go to the west, to Sian and Lanchow, 
where there was more geophysics and less mud. After all, I was 
a physicist, not a farmer. This proposal they accepted with the 
utmost calm, and without any demur they changed all their 
plans to accommodate my wishes. 

When we had safely negotiated these preliminaries over 
countless cups of tea, we set about an examination of geophysi- 
cal installations in Peking. It started with a formal dinner with 
Dn Li-shan Pei, the secretary-general of the Academia Sinica, 
a formidable man, austere, cold, and of a commanding pres- 
ence. He spoke no English and was most reserved, so that I 
discovered nothing about him except that he was an agricul- 
turist and hence probably of peasant stock. He seemed a dog- 
matic Marxist, although we did not discuss such matters. He 
was very conscious of his power and proud of the grandeur of 
his country's history and civilization, but I felt that he was ig- 
norant of the West, distrusted it greatly, and felt a strong re- 
sentment of the indignities inflicted on China in the past. His 
two chief concerns were to see that I had a good dinner of roast 
Peking duck, and to make it plain that the Academia Sinica of 
Peking was willing to co-operate with international bodies in 
scientific matters, provided that such bodies had already shown 
that they would have no dealings with any Chinese organiza- 
tions not under the control of Peking. He did not ask me to 
agree with his views, and I did not debate them. 

The next day, I started out to visit universities, observato- 
ries, and Government institutes, and I shall briefly describe a 



CHINA, TAIWAN, AND JAPAN 231 

few which were typical of all. The Institute of Geophysics 
and Meteorology of the Academia Sinica in Peking is the head- 
quarters for most geophysical work in China. It is located amid 
many other institutes in a newly developed region of Peking. 
The main building, which was still surrounded by temporary 
huts, was a solid, three-story one and well equipped. Like most 
institutes which I was to see, it had an excellent library. This 
one had been started many years before but now, according to 
the count I made in the reading room, subscribed to about four 
hundred scientific journals, mostly standard Western ones. I 
noticed, for example, recent issues of all the well-known geo- 
physical journals from Britain, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, 
Sweden, and the United States. 

I had talks in English with the director, Dr. Chin-chan 
Chao; the vice-director, Dr. Tsung-chi Chen; and the chief 
seismologist, Dr. Shan-pang Lee. All had studied in Europe or 
the United States. I had already met another research worker 
from this institute, Dr. Cheng-yi Fu, a graduate of McGill 
University and the California Institute of Technology. He was 
the only Chinese scientist whom I met in Russia. I did so be- 
cause the Soviet scientists, when it was known that I was go- 
ing from Moscow to Peking, suggested that I call on him in the 
Moscow Seismological Station. 

All the men I have mentioned are well known in the West. 
They publish books and technical papers. They are competent 
scientists, and there is no question that they are in charge of 
the technical work which they displayed to me with such en- 
thusiasm. For example, Dr. Lee showed me the instruments he 
had designed. I went through the workshop where they are 
built, and I saw the results of their use in maps charting the 
areas subject to earthquakes of varying intensity and fre- 
quency. An account of this work has been published and re- 
viewed favourably in the Bulletin of the American Seismo- 
logical Society. 



232 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

These men are leaders among China's few experienced geo- 
physicists. They held similar posts under previous govern- 
ments, but their work is appreciated by the present regime and 
they are being supported to a far greater extent than was ever 
possible before. It should be emphasized that this support is 
generous and is not merely a consequence of the advantages 
offered by peace after years of civil war and invasion. Every- 
where scientists have new buildings, many assistants, Gov- 
ernment cars for transport, and above all, excellent libraries. 
Of course, they don't have freedom, as we understand the 
word; but their programs were sensible and useful, they had 
probably had a say in determining what they were to be, and 
they certainly felt that what they were doing was good for 
China. 

They told me that they now operated almost two dozen seis- 
mological stations and would soon be increasing the number. 
While in China I visited four such stations. Before the revolu- 
tion, I believe, there had only been two in the whole of China, 
and I have subsequently discussed these changes with the late 
Father P. Lejay, s. j. f who was director of one of them. 

The Central Geophysical Observatory of China is located in 
the foothills near Peking, 10 miles from the town of Chufan. 
There I entered the vaults and saw twelve seismographs oper- 
ating. All were of Chinese manufacture, but nine were based 
on Soviet designs. I also visited three large, non-magnetic 
buildings housing a magnetic observatory under development. 
I looked at the sun through a solar-flare patrol telescope, which 
had been made in the German Democratic Republic and 
which was being used to carry out part of the IGY program. I 
was told that five seismologists at the observatory examine the 
records from all twenty-three Chinese seismograph stations, 
and that cosmic-ray observations, which I did not see, had 
been started. 

While in Peking, I visited several other institutes and uni- 




Czech scientists observing earth tides in a mine 4,000 feet be- 
neath the earth's surface. 




Magnetic surveyor in the field for 
the Royal Thai Survey Department. 




A Soviet observer adjusts a seismograph at 
Pullcovo Obsenatory at Leningrad, U.S.S.R. 




Inside the great crater of Mount Vesuvius, 
which is being filled in by eruptions from 
the small active cone. 




Professor Lloyd V. Berkner, who suggested 
holding the International Geophysical Year, 
is shown at Little America I, sitting on top 
of a radio mast which he had erected in 
1929. By 1958 the lower 65 feet of the mast 
had been buried in snow. 




Young Soviet scientist observing solar radia- 
tion at Arctic drif ting-ice station NP-6. 




Professor Sydney Chapman, president of the Comite* Special de 
TAnne*e Internationale Ge"ophysique (CSAIGj with academi- 
cian I. P. Bardin, chief of the U.S.S.R.-IGY Committee. 




The author discussing geophysical and geological maps with 
Soviet scientists and engineers at the Tumasi Deep-Sounding 
Seismic Expedition of the Ministry of Geology, U.S.S.R. 




staBWtfi x ;* 

C^&.A. < x v 
dfctf 
Drifting ice station NP-6 on the Arctic pack ice. 




* *#*^*^+S*^ ""* 

J *^ J^^^r ' ' ^^^^^^Bn ' ^<2^Hr ^tUMG * 

*-*r .^^^^ .riflr ? *^m ,mfiL. 

Ice-coring on Blue Glacier, Olympic Mountains, U.S A. 




Henrietta Glacier^ Ellesniere Island, North- 
west Territories* Canada, flowing from in- 
terior ice fields toward Lake Hazen. 




A series of valley glaciers in the mountains 
of Ellesmere Island. The six tongues of the 
valley glaciers are separated from the larger 
glaciers by a mountain ridge. 




..C^. Labrador breaking a passage through spring ice. The 
dark pattern is of melted water lying on the surface of the frozen 
sea ice. 




This tunnel built under the Greenland ice cap by U. S. Army 
engineers, is part of living quarters suitable for year-round occu- 
pancy. Rooms and buildings have been built from snow 7 ice, 
wood, and corrugated steel. The tunnel shown here has a self- 
supporting snow roof. 




R. W. Mason, glaciologist, examining the 
walls of a crevasse in McCall Glacier, 
Alaska. 



CHINA,, TAIWAN, AND JAPAN 233 

versities. One of them was the Institute of Geological Pros- 
pecting on the outskirts of Peking, a brand new institution still 
surrounded by the remnants of vegetable fields. It had been 
formed in 1952 out of the old department of geology of Peking 
University. On the campus I visited six large new buildings 
and many small temporary ones, and saw two more large ones 
under construction. Geophysical prospecting is one of six de- 
partments and is taught in adequately equipped laboratories. I 
saw a truck equipped for electrical prospecting, chemical and 
spectroscopic laboratories, a teaching museum and workshops, 
but the library had not yet been built. I was met by the vice- 
president, C.-T. Chung, and by Professors L.-H. Shu., F.-L. 
Yuan, and Kai Chow. They explained that within the past 
six years they and about twenty-five other experienced profes- 
sors had trained technicians and five hundred inexperienced 
colleagues and started to teach a five-year college course to six 
thousand students. They had had to collect equipment and 
translate text-books. Most of the staff and students were away, 
on seventeen field parties, by means of which the students 
combined field experience in the summer with lectures and 
laboratory work in the winter. 

In spite of this tremendous load placed on so few experi- 
enced professors, they said that they had been able to under- 
take some research and had published two works. Obviously, 
the literature now emanating from China does not reflect the 
full state of activity there. 

After my ten days in Peking, I set off for the west with my 
interpreter Mr. Yu-san Tien. In order to see everything at as 
close range as possible, I travelled entirely by train and by au- 
tomobile, spending five more days and nights in sleepers. I ate 
nothing but Chinese food, becoming quite proficient with 
chop-sticks. 

To give some idea of the extent of this journey from Mos- 
cow, back and forth through China, and on to Hong Kong, let 



234 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

me translate into North American terms. It was as if I had 
travelled from Hudson Bay to Alaska and back again, then 
crossed into another country near Winnipeg, and on down 
south to Tampico, Mexico. The side trip to Lanchow would 
have taken me from St. Louis into the mountains at Denver 
and back. 

Lanchow is an ancient walled town that in past centuries 
was regarded as lying on the utmost fringe of the old Chinese 
Empire, an outpost on the old Silk Route to the West: dusty, 
windswept, cold, and rigorous. Only fifteen years before I ar- 
rived in Lanchow, Mr. Tien, my interpreter, had had to walk 
for fifteen days, his luggage loaded on an oxcart, to reach Lan- 
chow from Paochi. Now the railway bores through a mountain 
range, by way of 187 tunnels, to reach Lanchow, and it extends 
beyond, crossing the Gobi Desert and the Altai Mountains to 
complete the link with Alma-Alta and Moscow. 

The old town has burst through its walls and sprawls over 
the surrounding countryside in a chaos of construction, noise, 
and dust. Day and night the building goes on, under flood- 
lights and to the accompaniment of hearty music blared forth 
from loud-speakers hitched to the street lights. The population 
has increased eight times in the last ten years, from 100,000 to 
800,000. I visited the branch of the Academia Sinica and the 
new university. They are most impressive displays of ideal- 
ism and practicality: a library designed to house a million 
books, the Multilithed copies of original texts open only to the 
student who has command of the Western languages in which 
some of them are written; a curriculum specializing in land use, 
reclamation of deserts, irrigation schemes, and meteorology; 
laboratories equipped with good but simple instruments. 

Outside of Lanchow I was taken through a large oil refinery 
which was nearing completion, and I was told that the oil 
came from "the west/' The Tsaidam depression near Lake 
Koko Nor between Lanchow, Sinkiang, and Tibet is the prob- 



CHINA, TAIWAN, AND JAPAN 235 

able source, for it is said to be a veiy rich and productive area. 

All in all I was agreeably surprised by what I saw in China. 
The Government clearly believes in and supports education 
and science. The many scientists from the old regime who 
have remained, although overworked, have never before had so 
much support, and they are enthusiastic at the material prog- 
ress being made in China, 

The students are selected by examination, and many are 
given scholarships. They are polite, well disciplined, enthusias- 
tic, and hard-working, even though they spend a great deal of 
time on political activities. As part of their program they have 
to take some physical exercise and do some practical work, but 
as far as I could make out the basis of their education in sci- 
ence and languages is sound. It would be foolish to believe 
otherwise. 

From Canton I took the short train journey to the border 
and said good-bye to Mr. Tien, my constant companion of the 
past month. I had come to like him, to appreciate the good 
care he took of me, and to enjoy his company, although in 
most respects we were opposites. For him, with his hard up- 
bringing, life was as serious and as clear in its purpose as a 
burial service. For me, the trip was like a visit to a theatre, 
where amid a feast of colour and sound, and in a spirit of gaiety 
and humour, I could nevertheless look for the playwright's un- 
derlying serious message. We got on well because we both fully 
enjoyed each day's investigation of the new China, he display- 
ing it with pride and I examining it in fascination, 

I then flew on to Taipeh, where I was warmly greeted as a 
guest of the other Academia Sinica. I was taken to the head- 
quarters of the academy in a peaceful village 10 miles south of 
Taipeh. It is housed in four or five small, new brick buildings, 
all devoted to the social sciences and the humanities, except a 
chemistry building, which was still under construction. There 
were no physics or geology buildings there. A museum was de- 



236 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

voted to displays of ancient Chinese writing on pieces of wood, 
of auguries on bone, and of the costumes and arts of the 18,- 
coo Malay aborigines of Taiwan. There was a small library de- 
voted to similar subjects. I was shown a locked door behind 
which I was told that copies of recent publications from China 
were stored. They were said to be reserved for intelligence pur- 
poses and not to be available to others. 

In Taipeh I visited the headquarters of an active and compe- 
tent meteorological service. Here they plotted the paths of hur- 
ricanes and prepared weather maps, using data broadcast from 
the mainland. Five radiosonde stations were said to be oper- 
ated. At this building there was also a seismological station 
equipped with three Weichert, three Omori, and some other 
Japanese instruments. Since there are many severe earthquakes 
in Taiwan, the director of the station needed new modern in- 
struments to supplement those left by the Japanese, but the 
necessary $50,000 was not forthcoming. He told me that there 
was no magnetic observatory in Taiwan. 

On the roof of the city hall I saw a regular IGY Moonwatch 
station equipped to track artificial satellites. 

At the National Taiwan University I gave a lecture, speak- 
ing very slowly in English and showing slides. The professor 
of geology was an enthusiastic man, but his library contained 
far fewer periodicals than did those on the mainland. There 
was still much evidence of Japanese influence, and very little 
new equipment In the department of physics the elderly pro- 
fessor asked me whether I could ask the National Bureau of 
Standards to replace his ionospheric sounder, since it was the 
oldest instrument in the Western world and he was trying to 
co-operate in the IGY program. It was still manually oper- 
ated, I duly delivered the message when next I was in the 
United States, and I must agree that their reasons for with- 
holding the new equipment are only too sound; he obviously 



CHINA, TAIWAN, AND JAPAN 237 

did not have the capacity to cope with anything more compli- 
cated. 

I was driven to Miaoli, where I met the Chinese geophysi- 
cists and geologists in charge of prospecting to extend an oil 
field there. These men had been trained in the United States, 
and with modern equipment were obtaining good seismic rec- 
ords. I believe that two seismic crews were operating and that 
this was the chief effort in prospecting on the island. 

I felt very sorry for the scientists in Taiwan. They are few in 
number, and some of them seemed to be dejected and home- 
sick. It is a myth that all the best Chinese scientists escaped 
to Taiwan. This is simply not so; most of them are still on the 
mainland. The chief difference between the two groups is in 
the degree of support they receive. 

To my mind, the mainland Chinese are now undergoing an 
awakening comparable in our history to the Renaissance. 
When I was in China I felt that they were looking back to the 
civilization of their magnificent past, which grew and enriched 
itself without a break for 2,700 years until it was overwhelmed 
by the Mongols in A.D. 1270. From that point the cultural and 
intellectual life of China slowed down until their civilization, 
once far in advance of the West, fell far behind. The dark ages 
had descended upon them as they did upon the West after 
Rome fell to the Vandals. Just as in the West the old learning 
returned, enriched, in the wake of a new invader, so it hap- 
pened in China. We of the West are to China what the Moors 
and the Arabs were to medieval Europe. The Westerners have 
pushed their way into China, and under the pressure China is 
reasserting herself and reviving in improved form the sciences 
she founded. In this process the Communist revolution is but 
one phase. Were not the Chinese Boxers just as terrifying 
when they tried in 1900, with some success, to kill every Chris- 
tian convert and every foreigner in China? Were not Sun Yat- 



238 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

sen and Chiang Kai-shek just as anxious to resurrect their 
country's greatness when they overthrew the Manchu Empire 
and fought the Japanese invaders? To regard the Communist 
capture of China as an isolated phenomena is to give undue 
credit to a foreign and fallacious dogma and to underestimate 
the rabid feeling of nationalism that is one of the chief sup- 
ports of the government in China. 

The Communist revolution in China has caused untold suf- 
fering, misery, and death; but one is entitled to ask whether 
any country has ever lifted itself from centuries of poverty, 
sloth, ignorance, incompetence, graft, and foreign self-seeking, 
without bloodshed. The pattern of revolution has always 
passed from the idealist and the intellectual to the extremist, 
and so it has in China. 

Now China is racing to make up the time she has lost and 
catch up with the West. Some of us have expressed the fear 
that the scientific education stressed in Communist countries 
will produce nations of robots. To my mind this is nonsense 
and a direct negation of our noted belief in the power of edu- 
cation. It was abundantly clear to me that the Chinese scien- 
tists had done their best to re-establish contact with the West 
through the IGY. 

In science, as Sir Eric Ashby has pointed out, "truth is not 
something final, revealed, sacrosanct; it is tentative, constantly 
being modified, enlarged, adjusted to new knowledge." Com- 
munist dogmatism and the free spirit of scientific enquiry can- 
not long exist together. One will destroy the other, and I wel- 
come the spread of sound scientific education in Communist 
countries, for I am sure that free thought will prevail. At the 
moment, in China as in Russia, the gullible can embrace Com- 
munism as the partner of nationalism, and the sceptical can 
tolerate it, confident that the worst features will be and indeed 
have already been modified. In the meantime, its success and 
its sense of urgency have inspired many with John Ruskin's 



CHINA, TAIWAN, AND JAPAN 239 

"idea of self-denial for the sake of posterity, of practicing pres- 
ent economy for the sake of debtors yet unknown, of planting 
forests that our descendants may live under their shade, or of 
raising cities for future nations to inhabit" 

I saw much in China to admire. I wandered through beauti- 
ful old temples and palaces that are now being restored and 
opened to the public. I liked the theatres and the food, and the 
quiet, polite, and good-humoured Chinese people among 
whom I constantly mingled as a solitary Western traveller. It is 
very rude and quite wrong to liken the Chinese people with 
ants on an anthill on the grounds that they suffer under a Com- 
munist dictatorship. Was not the old empire equally dictato- 
rial? It was simply less efficient. I sympathized with the gar- 
gantuan efforts the Chinese are making to reorganize the life 
of their nation and improve the lot of the people. Some of 
these efforts have been misunderstood in the West by reason 
of insufficient knowledge or special pleading. The commune 
system is a case in point. As I saw it on travelling through the 
countryside, it is not a matter of rehousing people in barracks, 
but of reorganizing village life. A moment's reflection will 
make clear the impossibility of rehousing in barracks a popu- 
lation three times that of the United States. The peasants, in- 
stead of each working his own plot to pay the landlord, have 
been formed into groups to work much larger tracts, and they 
have established communal dining halls and day nurseries to 
economize on labour. The uprooting caused untold misery, but 
now everybody works, some enthusiastically and some because 
they have to. Whether willingly or unwillingly, the activity is 
prodigious, and because of it new railways, new factories, new 
dams, new universities, and new cities are sprouting up all 
over China. 

There is no doubt that this material progress is spurring 
widespread national enthusiasm. We would do well to remem- 
ber how different life in China has been from life in the West. 



240 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

Conditions in a commune, which might seem poor, dictatorial 
and unpleasant to us or to the wealthy Chinese who have 
been displaced, mean security for peasants who before faced 
only poverty, famine, disease, and civil war. Now, after a dec- 
ade of peace and strong government, material progress is be- 
ing achieved. 

In the process, many grievous hardships and injustices 
have been inflicted, but we can be confident that the Chinese 
will gradually moderate the present system. In the meantime, 
it would be salutary for us in the West to admit that a mod- 
ern, awakened China does exist and that since China is the 
oldest, most populous, and second-largest country on earth, 
it is a power to be reckoned with. Soviet scientists are aware 
of Chinese progress, and regard it with mixed feelings of ad- 
miration and fear. We may have reason to fear it, too, but 
we cannot dispose of it by shutting our eyes and refusing to 
recognize that it is there. 

The fervour of nationalism that has effected these accom- 
plishments is spurred on by periodic outbursts of anti-Western 
hate-fests. I was engulfed in anti-Western parades on vari- 
ous occasions. In every case, each column was led by one or 
two shouting, sweating Communists, but most of the march- 
ers clearly regarded the whole thing as an excuse for a good 
junket. It was ironic to stand on the kerb, as the parades swept 
past, and realize that the political philosophy which these 
anti-Western marchers supposedly professed had been devel- 
oped by a refugee German working in the reading room of the 
British Museum. The resurgent modern China is the child of 
Western culture, and we cannot disown her just because we 
regard her as a changeling. 

So ended my investigation of Chinese science. Two Chinas, 
two academies, each claiming to represent the whole and 
neither having intercourse with the other. This great rift in 
Chinese science affects not only science in China, but in the 



CHINA, TAIWAN, AND JAPAN 241 

world as a whole. One cannot do global research by studying 
only three quarters of the earth, any more than one can settle 
the affairs of the world by pretending that one quarter of it 
does not exist. As a scientist, I was disturbed to discover 
that the Government of Taiwan, which is the government of 
China recognized by my country, does so much less to sup- 
port academic and scientific work than does the People's Re- 
public of China, which we choose to ignore. 

I went on from Taiwan to pursue my round of calls on uni- 
versities, institutes, and historic sites in Japan. The plane was 
late, but even at two in the morning Professor Chuji Tsuboi, 
of Tokyo University, and Dr. Tatzuso Obayashi, a former 
graduate student of mine, were waiting to meet me, smiling 
and cheerful. 

Through Japan I went, shepherded by my old and warm 
friend, Tats Obayashi, being proudly introduced to all that 
was best in Japanese science and culture, and staying in the 
quiet, exquisite, little Japanese hotels. And it never stopped 
raining. Whether we were visiting institutes, contemplating 
stone gardens, or rushing through the countryside in a train, 
the rain sluiced down. Typhoon Ida was sweeping in from the 
Pacific, bringing with her the heaviest rainfall recorded in 
Tokyo's modern history, seventeen inches altogether, twelve of 
which fell in one day. 

In the country, rain washed the rice fields to freshest green, 
and wind blew damask patterns through the waving grain. 
The villages, each a close cluster of wooden huts about a larger 
temple, did not need the wooden fire towers which rose as ob- 
servation posts above the black-tile roofs. Between high dikes 
swift torrents, opalescent with the splash of falling drops, 
poured back the water to the ocean. We were shut in by 
clouds above and by steep and dark mountains rising into the 
mist on every side. 

In the Ryoanji Temple at Dajun-Zan, the stone garden was 



242 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

so wet it looked like a sea set with islands. The rain splat- 
tered on the pebbles, rattled on the tin-roof gutters, and 
gurgled as it ran away in streams under the pavilion where 
we sat for the tea ceremony. The coloured umbrellas of the 
visitors, as they mounted the mossy steps between stone lan- 
terns and laurel bushes, looked like irridescent bubbles 
bobbing on the flood green, blue, pink, yellow, and black. 

In the city the rain sluiced off the roofs, blew in gusts around 
the street corners, flooded through the streets, drowned cars 
in the lower gullies, and poured into basements everywhere. 

At the Imperial Hotel servants held back the flood with 
carpets and sand bags as long as they could, but eventually 
the water cascaded down the stairs and turned the cocktail 
lounges in the basement into swimming pools, short-circuited 
the generators, drowned out the kitchen, and sent all the 
guests early to bed by candlelight, with a cold supper to com- 
fort them amid the trembling, gurgling, swishing sounds of 
the buffeted hotel. 

Typhoons, floods, storms, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, 
tsunami waves racing in from the sea, and even the rising 
sun on the national flag are reminders enough to the Japanese 
of the importance of the elements, and their awareness of the 
natural world may explain their active part in the IGY. Their 
scientific work is of the highest standard, and they entered into 
every program with enthusiasm, even dispatching an expedi- 
tion to Antarctica. 

I had long discussions in the Earthquake Research Institute 
and in departments of the University of Tokyo and Kyoto. I 
visited many well-known scientists, some of whom I had met 
before, and I admired the skill with which, on small budgets, 
they keep in the forefront of scientific work. 

On my last day it cleared, and at the airport I had the good 
fortune to see the President of India arrive for a state visit. 
From the roof of the new Hameda airport we saw the Im- 



CHINA, TAIWAN, AND JAPAN 243 

perial Guard, in their cream uniforms and with their brass 
band blowing furiously, drawn up on one side, and on the 
other, the diplomats and government officials in black morning 
coats with yellow chrysanthemum boutonnieres. A great pink 
Constellation settled down neatly on the runway beside them. 
Turbaned Indian aides, tall and slim, with their swords and 
buttons glistening, emerged, followed by the President in his 
white Indian cap and coat. Together he and Emperor Hirohito 
walked arm in arm to inspect the honour guard and to climb 
into the Emperor's maroon Pierce Arrow. As the rulers of these 
ancient nations left the modern scene, the full moon rose from 
the Pacific and the orange glow of sunset bathed the airport. 
I wondered if the full moon had in fact replaced the rising 
sun as a gentler symbol of the new Japan. 



CHAPTER 20 



THE OCEANS 



The oceans cover 70.8 per cent of the earth's surface and form 
a single body so extensive on this planet and so unusual in 
the universe that impartial space travellers observing the earth 
for the first time would certainly christen it "The Water/* 

Most people's knowledge of the oceans is limited to a 
familiarity with their general shape, as shown in atlases, and 
a vague notion that they are deep and contain most of the 
world's water. Many are not even aware of the outstanding 
mysteries which the seas present. What is the origin and his- 
tory of the great basins in which the oceans lie? Where and 
at what rates do currents flow, especially the deep ones by 
which sea water circulates within those basins? What are the 
processes of exchange of heat and moisture between sea, air, 
glaciers, and land which regulate the climate and make the 
world habitable? 

Inasmuch as the oceans contain 97 per cent of the world's 
water, they are the greatest reservoirs of moisture and of heat 
on the surface of the earth. Until we know more about the 
currents that carry warm water towards the poles and bring 
cooler water to the tropics, we cannot expect to forecast the 



THE OCEANS 245 

world's weather correctly or to exploit ocean fisheries to full 
advantage. The surface currents, such as the Gulf Stream, 
which produce these moderating effects are relatively well 
known, but the deeper currents, which are equally important, 
have been little studied. Submarine ridges and sills exercise 
strong controls upon deep currents, and the shape of the ocean 
basins affects all currents. 

The history of the exploration of the sea floors is brief and 
simple, and it can truthfully be said that the enormous task 
of studying these cradles of the sea was first faced in an ade- 
quate manner during the IGY. This is less surprising when one 
realizes that the job of making accurate maps of most of 
the land surface was only started during the Second World 
War and has not yet been completed. 

Throughout the centuries of great geographical discovery 
no one knew or investigated the shape of ocean basins be- 
yond the shallow continental shelves. To sound any great 
depth by the traditional method of lowering a weight on the 
end of a hemp line was not practicable because the ropes 
broke and were lost. It was not until 1840 that Captain 
James Ross made the first soundings at depths of over a mile. 

Shortly afterwards, a cheaper and more practical method 
was introduced by Captain Matthew F. Maury, a United 
States and Confederate Naval officer of great enthusiasm and 
scientific ability. He made soundings by dropping a cannon 
ball to which was attached a length of twine. He measured the 
rate at which the twine was paid out and assumed that the shot 
had reached bottom at the moment when the rate be- 
came slower. Having noted this depth, he cut the twine and 
cannon ball away. In 1855, from data thus collected, he made 
the first hydrographic chart of the north Atlantic. 

A few years later, proposals to lay trans-Atlantic cables 
made a knowledge of the ocean floor important and gave 
these investigations great impetus. On Christmas day, 1872, 



246 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

the British ship Challenger set sail on the first great ocean- 
ographic expedition to explore the world's oceans and particu- 
larly to investigate the nature of their floors. A hundred other 
oceanographic expeditions have followed. The world's navies 
and hydrographic services, working out from civilized coasts, 
have made charts, but progress was slow, for the efforts were 
unequal to the task. By 1914 only eighteen hundred soundings 
had been made in the deep parts of the north Atlantic and 
fewer elsewhere. The greatest depth that had been found was 
31,600 feet in a trench close to Guam. The floor was con- 
sidered to be everywhere gently sloping and covered with a 
thick layer of clay and ooze, as fine organic remains are called, 
which had slowly settled from the sea. Only three ships had 
been built specifically for oceanographic research: Nansen's 
From, Peary's Roosevelt, and Scott's Discovery. One general 
bathymetrical chart of the oceans had been published by an 
international institute in Monaco (established by Prince Rai- 
nier's grandfather), but these charts were admitted to include 
"the widest generalizations." Some progress was made be- 
tween the two World Wars, but the failure to recognize the 
continuity of the mid-ocean ridge until 1956 is one indication 
of our continuing ignorance about the little-travelled parts of 
the ocean. Real progress awaited the development of new tools 
with which to explore the oceans, and the availability of funds 
for expeditions to exploit these tools. 

The first need was for good charts, which require precise 
measurements of depth, latitude, and longitude. Since about 
1920 scientists have been able to measure depth by sending 
sound signals into the water and timing the echoes received 
from the bottom. This is known as echo-sounding and can be 
used to determine depth accurately within a few feet. Before 
this development, a ship's position at sea could only be deter- 
mined by sun or star observations, accurate to the nearest mile 



or 

o 



O 

o 
o 
ro 




248 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

or so but not good enough for exact mapping. It is now possi- 
ble to achieve greater precision by using radio and radar de- 
vices on ships and coastal installations. This equipment is ex- 
pensive, however, and was not available in many parts of the 
Indian Ocean and of the Southern Ocean, which surrounds 
Antarctica, until after the IGY was over. 

During the IGY the Soviet vessel Vityaz, operating in the 
Pacific, carried out systematic charting, by echo-sounding, of 
the deepest trenches in the Pacific Ocean, On January 23, 
1960, shortly after the close of the IGY, two men, Lieutenant 
D. Walsh of the United States Navy and J. Piccard, sank to 
the bottom of the Mariana Deep in the western Pacific to the 
greatest depth known, 36,800 feet, in the bathysphere Trieste. 
There they spent thirty minutes before releasing ballast and 
floating back to the surface. This special submarine, invented 
by the Swiss professor, Auguste Piccard, consists of a strong 
steel sphere, 6 feet in diameter, made buoyant by having at- 
tached to it a large tank full of gasoline. The depth reported 
by the Trieste was 1,000 feet greater than the depth measured 
by the Vityaz using echo-sounding. Why the Trieste seemed 
to exceed that depth by so large an amount has yet to be ex- 
plained. 

In addition to improvements in the fundamental task of 
making good charts, the last fifteen years have witnessed the 
development of many devices for exploring the nature of the 
sea floors. As an extension of echo-sounding to determine wa- 
ter depths, Maurice Ewing in 1938 demonstrated that firing 
small explosive charges produced echoes that indicated the 
thickness of sedimentary beds, lavas, and crust lying below the 
ocean floor. The method, which at first involved exploding 
single charges, has been widely applied. During the IGY it was 
extended by the development of a whole series of "sparkers," 
"bloopers/' and "thumpers/* These devices, which are towed 
behind vessels, emit loud bangs periodically. Just as echoes 



THE OCEANS 249 

from weak signals can be used to plot a continuous profile of 
the surface of the ocean floor, so the stronger signals from these 
loud bangs can be used to plot continuously the beds lying be- 
neath the ocean floor, even to depths of thousands of feet. Now 
a ship can cruise at a steady speed, mapping the stratigraphy 
of the ocean floor thousands of feet below, for as long a time 
as the crew can stand the racket of several loud explosions a 
minute close behind the ship. 

But echoes do not provide samples, and to obtain them 
dredges and coring devices have been developed. The Chal- 
lenger expedition used dredges, but they only skimmed the up- 
permost layer. In 1936 C. S. Piggott of the Carnegie Institu- 
tion devised a double-coring tube that could be lowered to 
the bottom and the inner tube fired as from a gun into the 
floor. Rapid improvements followed. B. Kullenberg of Sweden, 
and Soviet inventors, showed that in many places the oozes 
on the ocean floor are so soft that a heavily weighted tube of 
appropriate design can penetrate as much as 80 or 100 feet 
when dropped into the ocean floor. Cores up to that length 
can be recovered, but 100 feet seems to be the limit for free- 
falling corers. Thousands of such cores have been collected 
in the last few years. 

We have mentioned the Mohole project by which it is 
hoped to drill through the crust under the ocean floor to the 
mantle. The project, which is sponsored by the United States 
National Science Foundation, will take several years to 
complete. The first short experimental holes, made in the 
spring of 1961, penetrated 601 feet into the floor of the ocean 
off Lower California. The deepest core pierced 557 feet of clays 
and oozes deposited about 25,000,000 years ago and then 
drilled 44 feet into a layer of basalt lava of unknown age. Since 
the rate of sedimentation on the ocean floor is slow, these 
cores and the much longer ones that are planned should re- 
veal much about the history of the oceans. They may also 



250 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

help to determine the age and origin of the oceans and to 
decide whether the continents have drifted about or not. 

Much of the floor of the ocean basins consists of great, flat, 
smooth plains. It had been taken for granted that the floors 
were smothered in a carpet of ooze, which had slowly sifted 
down through the sea since the beginning of time. Unex- 
pectedly, coring not only showed that the rate was wrong but 
disclosed layers of coarse sand hundreds of miles from the near- 
est land. How did sand reach places where there should be 
only ooze? In 1952 M. Ewing suggested that on the steep 
slopes of the continental shelves, where the land suddenly 
drops away to the ocean floors 3 miles below, lie great deposits 
of mud and sand brought down by the world's rivers. These 
pile up higher and higher until an earthquake shakes their 
uneasy balance and sends them hurtling down the slopes in 
muddy turbidity currents that flow at express speeds far over 
the ocean floors. It has now been established that as these 
currents settle they deposit layers of sand that they have car- 
ried hundreds of miles from land. These great but rare rivers, 
or landslides, of mud flowing under the sea also explain the 
peculiar damage some earthquakes inflict on submarine ca- 
bles. For years cable companies have puzzled over the fact 
that cables have not only snapped close to the site of an earth- 
quake, but also sometimes three or four hours later and hun- 
dreds of miles away other cables have been broken, frayed, or 
buried in mud. Now they blame these engulfing slides of 
muddy water. 

These vast slumps that cause turbidity currents also cause 
the disastrous seismic waves, or tsunamis, that accompany 
some large earthquakes. The last such earthquake in Chile, 
in May 1960, not only killed thousands of people and did vast 
damage on land in Chile, but also gave rise to a seismic wave 
that overwhelmed the coasts of Chile and travelled across the 
Pacific to drown a hundred and fifty people on the Japanese 



THE OCEANS 251 

coasts when it reached there sixteen hours later. A great wall 
of mud, released by the earthquake, tumbled down the sub- 
marine coast of Chile to the deep sea floor, having the same 
effect on the Pacific Ocean as a large boulder sent crashing 
into a pond. 

All during the IGY scientists continued coring tracing the 
turbidity currents, sampling the floor of the sea, solving some 
riddles, propounding others. One of the intriguing questions 
raised concerns the origin of a layer of volcanic ash which 
J. L. Worzel of Columbia University traced at an average depth 
of about 50 feet below the bottom of the Pacific Ocean over 
a vast area off the coast of Mexico, Central America, and 
Peru. The presence of the bed was first noticed on seismic 
soundings, and then investigated by corers made of lengths 
of three-inch water-pipe dropped into the bottom. The ash, 
which is from four inches to a foot thick, seems all to be from 
the same layer. Worzel believes it to be due to a single volcanic 
eruption about eighty thousand years ago. This sounds 
straightforward enough until one realizes that the area cov- 
ered is so large that the eruption which produced it must have 
been five thousand times larger than the great volcanic ex- 
plosion of 1883 at Krakatoa in Indonesia. This seems improb- 
able. No volcanic crater of such dimensions has been reported, 
and the ash-bed must remain an enigma until it can be investi- 
gated further. 

Of great economic interest was the discovery that parts of 
the Pacific Ocean floor are strewn with nodules of manganese 
and other useful metals. Proposals have been made to dredge 
these commercially. 

Another recently developed device measures the rate at 
which the earth loses heat. Compared with outer space, the 
earth is a warm body, but it is losing heat continuously. To 
measure this small loss, a thermal probe was developed by 
Sir Edward Bullard and during the IGY measurements of 



252 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

heat flow were made in about a hundred places in the deep 
oceans. In general, the heat loss is the same over oceans as over 
continents; but below the mid-ocean ridges the earth seems to 
be warmer than elsewhere, and it is losing heat faster there. 

The development and application of devices for exploring 
the ocean floors did not attract much interest from govern- 
ment or industry until recently, and most of the credit for 
them goes to universities. Columbia, Cambridge, California, 
and Goteborg have all played important roles. Expeditions 
equipped with these new devices, as well as more conventional 
instruments, have been recently sent out from Denmark, 
Great Britain, the Soviet Union, Sweden, and the United 
States to continue the notable pre-war work of Holland and 
Germany. The discoveries which they have made have so 
revolutionized ideas about the ocean bottoms that individual 
governments and UNESCO are now becoming interested, 
realizing, as they do, the importance of the economic and mili- 
tary aspects of such surveys. 

The vigorous program of international exploration of the 
sea instituted during the IGY has stirred great interest in the 
oceans, and a Special Committee on Oceanic Research has 
been established to co-ordinate the work. The Indian Ocean 
is the least known, and it is perhaps the most productive ocean 
biologically. Between 1959 and 1963 forty ships carrying sci- 
entists from twenty countries will be participating in the In- 
ternational Indian Ocean Expedition, at the end of which this 
may be the best known ocean. 

The most remarkable of these recent discoveries is the evi- 
dence of the continuity of the mid-ocean ridge. It had long 
been known that remote islands were peaks on submarine 
ridges, but it was not realized that the ridges were continuous. 
In the Southern Ocean, during the IGY, American, West 
European, and Soviet ships filled many gaps in our knowledge 
and showed that the ridges are indeed joined. In the Arctic 



THE OCEANS 253 

Ocean, Russian and American soundings through the ice, and 
recent continuous profiles obtained by the submarines Nauti- 
lus and Skate, traced the northern extension past Spitsbergen 
across the Arctic basin to the Lena delta. The Indian Ocean 
branch was traced into the Gulf of Aden, the Red Sea, and 
the African rift valleys. The main ridge stretches for 40,000 
miles, and with branches it may be 60,000 miles long- Like the 
course of the Nautilus of Jules Verne, the mid-ocean ridge 
extends 20,000 leagues under the sea, and it is by far the great- 
est mountain range on earth. 

Not only is it the largest; it is the highest mountain system. 
At Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, on Hawaii, the ridge rises to 
33,000 feet from the ocean floor, and elsewhere it is rarely less 
than 10,000 feet high. It rises, steep and rugged, from the sur- 
rounding flat plain of the sea floor. Along most of Its length 
there runs a central rift valley, or valleys, which like the rift 
valleys of Africa are shaken by earthquakes and are marked 
by magnetic disturbances. Earthquakes most frequently occur 
directly beneath these rifts. Active volcanoes rise along the 
ridge, and from time to time their growing cones break the 
surface of the sea as new islands. Perhaps the ridge is a crack 
opening as the earth expands and its crust is pulled apart. 
Lavas, gushing up from the earth's hot interior, fill the crack 
and overflow onto the surface. Slow viscous currents in the 
deep mantle, rising beneath the ridge, may account for the 
greater heat flow over the ridge. If P. A. M. Dirac is correct 
in his suggestion that the earth has slowly expanded during 
its long history, these ridges are the cicatrices that mark where 
the earth's surface has split under the pressure of its swelling. 
They have the properties that one would expect to find in 
such scars, and lend plausibility to Dirac's theory. But, then, 
by what mechanism were the continental mountains built? 
To date, mountains have been thought to result from contrac- 
tion of the earth. The solution to this quandary eludes us still 



254 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

because, whether the earth is contracting or expanding, the 
rate is so slow that our instruments cannot detect any change. 

Scientists also have been impressed by the possibility of 
yielding and flow within the earth, which could go on whether 
the earth is expanding or contracting or remains constant in 
volume. 

During the IGY R. G. Mason and V. Vacquier carried out 
air-borne magnetic surveys of a branch of the mid-ocean ridge 
that reaches the coast of Lower California, and of some great 
cliffs, or scarps, associated with it which, it had been recently 
discovered by H. W. Menard, extend for 2,000 miles toward 
the Hawaiian Islands. By studying the displacement of mag- 
netic anomalies, Mason and Vacquier concluded that there had 
been a horizontal movement of 800 miles along one fracture 
and lesser movements along others. The scarps do not ap- 
pear to be actively moving now, but no one knows how old 
they are. 

How to interpret these fascinating and unsuspected observa- 
tions poses a great puzzle for earth scientists. Many answers 
have been proposed, but most of them cannot account for all 
the evidence. At the present time the idea that convection 
currents circulate in the mantle seems to be the most promis- 
ing. H. H. Hess and R. S. Dietz have recently restated this old 
idea of F. A. Vening Meinesz of Holland and Arthur Holmes 
of Edinburgh. They suggest that rising currents lift the mid- 
ocean ridges and bring heat to the surface. There the currents 
part to form rifts and earthquakes along the central line of 
the mid-ocean ridges. Lava can then pour out to pile up vol- 
canoes. The rate of movement in the enormously viscous rock 
(solid to all intents) is only about an inch a year. According 
to this view, the two sides of the Atlantic Ocean, once joined, 
have been moving steadily apart for the past 200,000,000 
years. Rising currents lift up the mid-Atlantic ridge; and Ice- 
land, the Azores, and Tristan da Cunha are the tops of vol- 



THE OCEANS 255 

canoes along the ridge. As the currents have moved apart, 
the Atlantic Ocean has been opened and new floors exposed. 
No sediments over 200,000,000 years old should be found 
there, a fact that it is hoped will be verified by drilling. On 
the westward-flowing current, the Americas have drifted stead- 
ily, borne like rafts upon the viscid mantle. 

In the Pacific Ocean there are similar currents flowing out 
from the mid-ocean ridge. The eastward-flowing one reaches 
the west coast of the Americas and there both currents flow 
inwards again towards the centre of the earth like the convec- 
tion currents in a pot of boiling water or like eddies in a 
stream. This action forms the great trenches off the coast of 
Chile, Peru, and Central America. In these trenches, where 
the mantle goes down, the sediments on the ocean floor are 
scraped off and piled up, like scum over a whirlpool, and added 
to the mighty Andes and the Cordillera. Near the surface the 
motion is not steady, but moves in jerks, jolting the earth 
with quakes from California to Chile. 

"We must now consider whether these currents have not 
always flowed in the mantle, pulling continents apart here, 
pushing them together there, and always turning over the 
ocean floors so as to scrape off the surface layers against the 
growing continents. A careful study of S. K. Runcorn's and 
P. M. S. Blackett's work on palaeomagnetism might enable 
us to trace the earlier positions and orientations of continents, 
but a complete re-examination of world geology is needed. 

Once I liked the view of the earth propounded by the 
North American geologists and Jeffreys that the earth's interior 
is solid and crisp like the image in a photograph, but now I 
appreciate the greater scope and challenge offered by the 
swirling vision of convection currents that makes the earth 
look more like a painting by Van Gogh. The discoveries made 
on the ocean floors and in palaeomagnetism seem to demand 
this change in view to a picture of a more mobile earth. 




x^ x jsSSSSSSSsSSa 

I I I I III 



THE OCEANS 257 

The seas T which fill the ocean basins, hiding their dark 
floors from view, themselves provide other mysteries no less 
challenging. As soon as ocean navigation began, sailors real- 
ized that currents flowed in the surface of the sea. The most 
famous of these, the Gulf Stream, was mapped by Benjamin 
Franklin- Recognition of the Humboldt Current off Chile 
and Peru, of the Kuroshio Current off Japan, and of the equa- 
torial currents followed, until a picture of the regular move- 
ments of the surface currents of the oceans was completed. 
Many of the surface currents follow the direction of prevailing 
winds, but currents in general are formed and directed by 
four main factors: gravity, wind, the rotation of the earth, and 
the shape of the ocean basins. 

The rotation of the earth and the prevailing winds cause 
the currents to be most intense close to the western sides of 
oceans. Thus, the Gulf Stream, moving at 3 to 5 knots off 
the coast of Florida, is much faster than any current off the 
opposite European shore. Investigation has also shown that 
whereas the western edge of the Gulf Stream is sharp enough, 
even if it snakes about rather unsteadily, the eastern edge is 
ill defined. Indeed, the whole Atlantic circulation is somewhat 
like the rotation of a large merry-go-round, with its centre in 
the Sargasso Sea. 

The study of surface currents is comparatively simple, but 
deep currents are much more elusive and our knowledge of 
them is still far from complete. The methods developed for 
the plotting of air currents have not simplified our task here 
because, unfortunately, the problems are quite dissimilar. In 
the transparent and rapidly moving atmosphere the com- 
ponents are well mixed and constant, but the wind currents 
can easily be traced by releasing balloons and watching the 
direction and rate of their progress. The seas, however, are 
opaque, and until 1956 no means of observing their currents 
directly had been devised. But the components of the sea are 



258 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

not well mixed, and currents retain their separate identity for 
great distances, as anyone knows who has seen the waters of 
the Amazon, and other great rivers, staining the sea miles off 
the coast. The traditional method of tracking the path of an 
ocean current flowing far beneath the surface involved taking 
thousands of samples of ocean water by lowering bottles on 
long wire lines. By linking together the points from which 
identical samples had been drawn, the paths of deep currents 
were plotted. But this labour yielded no information on the 
rate at which the currents flowed. 

The currents in the sea tend to form separate layers flowing 
in different directions, each layer denser than the one above 
it. Very cold water and very salty water constitute the heaviest 
layers. The very cold water generated off Antarctica could be 
traced along the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean as far north 
as the Bay of Biscay; at shallower depths warm tropical waters 
flowed south, toward Antarctica. If it were possible to devise 
a float so sensitive to pressure that it could maintain itself 
at a predetermined depth, it would be born along in one of 
these layers in the depths of the sea. In 1956 J. C. Swallow, 
of the British National Institute of Oceanography, succeeded 
in developing such a float. It was equipped with sound trans- 
mitters by which surface ships could track its course. During 
the IGY the American research vessel Atlantis, of Woods Hole 
Oceanographic Institution, and the Discovery II, from the 
British National Institute, on a cruise off the United States 
coast demonstrated by means of this device that a strong south- 
westward current flows at a depth of two miles below the Gulf 
Stream, in the opposite direction, at a rate of as much as a 
third of a knot. Another co-operative voyage by British, 
French, and Norwegian vessels some 400 miles off the west 
coast of Spain and Portugal revealed a current flowing at a 
rate of one or two miles a day, at a depth of about 4,000 feet, 



260 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

counter to the surface current. These floats have also shown 
that submarine currents do not flow smoothly but contain 
eddies which move much faster than the average flow and 
which may be the cause of sand ripples photographed on the 
ocean floor. 

Exploration has recently revealed a very complex system 
of currents along the equator in the Pacific Ocean. In 1948 
an American oceanographer, T. Cromwell, noticed that some 
deep-fishing lines were carried east against the westward flow 
of the surface current. Subsequently, the Cromwell Current 
has been found to lie at depths of between 100 and 800 feet, 
to be 250 miles wide, and to move eastward with velocities 
of up to 3.5 knots. It is located exactly along the equator and 
directly beneath the South Equatorial Current, which flows 
in the opposite direction. The Cromwell Current has a flow 
over a thousand times that of the Mississippi River. To date 
it has been traced for 3,500 miles from the Galapagos Islands 
to the International Date Line, but it may cross the whole 
Pacific Ocean and be 6,500 miles long. 

Beneath the Cromwell Current flows another 7 weaker, west- 
ward current. Thus, there are three currents, one above the 
other, flowing in alternate directions. The full story is even 
more complex, for two more currents flow beside them. On 
the surface, beside the South Equatorial Current, lies the 
North Equatorial Current, which, as expected, flows in the 
opposite direction. Beneath it, in turn, a fifth current flows 
counter to it, as the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, us- 
ing Swallow floats, has shown. 

These currents follow the equator because of the rotation 
of the earth. Rotation, along with the difference in tempera- 
ture between the equator and the poles, creates the trade 
winds, blowing from northeast and southeast toward the 
equator. These winds peel away the surface water at the equa- 
tor, causing an upsurge of cooler, deep water. And these fac- 



THE OCEANS 261 

tors, in some indirect manner not yet fully understood, give 
rise to complex patterns of currents and counter-currents. 

The rise of the deep water has another effect. The warm, 
sunlit surface waters of the tropical seas form a vast incubator 
for all sorts of marine life, which could not be supported were 
it not for the constant supply of phosphates and other nutri- 
ents welling up from the depths. Beneath this area, teeming 
with life, lies a submarine cemetery in the form of a low 
ridge of fossils. According to marine palaeontologists, these 
fossils form an equatorial ridge 900 feet high and 360 miles 
wide which extends right across the Pacific Ocean. 

Finally, in the Southern Ocean there has long been known 
to exist a sharp dividing line between the bitterly cold waters 
that surround Antarctica and the somewhat wanner waters 
of the other oceans. It has generally been supposed that this 
line marks the place at which the cold Antarctic water sinks 
to the bottom before flowing north. The line is called the 
Antarctic Convergence. During the IGY the many ships navi- 
gating to Antarctica added greatly to our knowledge of the 
Convergence, which may be much more complex than had 
been thought. Here again investigation has only served to 
reveal the immensity of the problem. 

Sailors and harbour masters long ago found that since tides 
are closely related to the phases of the moon, careful observa- 
tion for a few months at any particular spot would enable 
them to predict tides there. A few harbours installed perma- 
nent tide-gauges, and over the years these have indicated that 
on the average sea level is slowly rising. Compared with tides, 
which are measured in feet or tens of feet, the long-range 
changes in sea level of a few inches a century are slight There 
used to be so few tide-gauges that it was difficult to obtain 
accurate measurements, but during the IGY many maritime 
powers installed them. A good number of gauges are needed 
because any one of them may be rendered unreliable by 



262 



I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 



changes in the pattern of the weather or by movements as- 
sociated with earthquakes or the settling of the land. A par- 
ticular effort was made to put gauges on remote islands where 
they would be subject to fewer disturbing influences. The nu- 



Antarciic Convergence 




Position of the Antarctic Convergence, where the cold 
Antarctic waters appear to sink beneath warmer waters 
from the north. Notice its close relation to the zone of 
strongest westerly winds. 

merous additional gauges installed during the IGY showed 
that in many places the average level of the sea was higher 
at some seasons than at others. For example, in July 1958 
at Bermuda, sea level was observed to be 9 inches higher 



THE OCEANS 263 

than in August. Such changes seem to be largely due to the 
transport of great masses of water about the earth by winds. 
They may also be partly due to the heating and expansion 
of sea water during summer. It should be possible to relate 
such changes to minute alterations in the earth's rotation. 
To obtain information with which to discriminate between 
the effects of temperature and wind, some tidal stations during 
the IGY recorded the temperatures of the sea water below the 
gauges to depths of 1,000 feet. Such an installation on Pitcairn 
Island was tended by a descendant of a mutineer from H.M.S, 
Bounty. 

During the last war the many landing operations on beaches 
aroused a great interest in waves, and it was discovered that 
several types could be distinguished. There are waves caused 
by local winds; there are swells of longer wave-length which 
have travelled thousands of miles from their origin in distant 
storms; there are surges, long-period waves, like the seiches, 
which cause rapid changes of a few feet in the level of the 
water in the Great Lakes; and there are tsunami, or seismic 
waves, caused by displacement of the ocean floor by submarine 
flows triggered by earthquakes. At many places special gauges 
were installed to record these phenomena. 

In addition, the IGY saw many miscellaneous projects in 
oceanography. Photographs were taken of the ocean floor. 
New fish and invertebrates were discovered at great depths. 
The carbon-dioxide content of deep ocean waters was studied, 
for it is important to know whether it is increasing as a result 
of the burning of coal and petroleum. 

Samples of carbon-i4, obtained from the depths, were used 
to time the circulation of water in the oceans. California 
oceanographers found that deep water from latitude 10 north 
in the Pacific had not been at the surface for nineteen hun- 
dred years but that farther south, at latitude 45 south in 
the same longitude, the deep water had been at the surface 



264 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

thirteen hundred years ago. Since both these were, supposedly, 
samples from the current that sinks from the surface along 
the Antarctic Convergence and flows slowly northward, we can 
gauge the rate at which the waters flow. It would appear that 
the bottom current in the Pacific flows northward at a rate of 
about 8 miles a year. 

The rate of flow and counter-flow of the oceans dictates 
the quantity of life in the sea. Without upwelling currents, 
the surface waters, in which light and warmth can support 
abundant life, would soon be eaten bare of their dissolved 
nutrients- Thus, the best fisheries are located where warm 
surface waters and cold rising currents mingle. In some areas, 
such as along the coast of Peru, under certain conditions 
of the winds the fertilizing currents fail. In those years the 
fisheries fail, the sea birds die, and there is famine in the sea. 



CHAPTER 21 



HAWAII 
AND NEW ZEALAND 



NOVEMBER 1958 

On October 29, 1958, a month after returning from China, 
I left home again to join an inspection team from the United 
States National Academy of Sciences on board a military 
air-transport plane bound for a six weeks* tour of bases in 
Antarctica. 

On the way there, and again coming back, our party stopped 
in Hawaii and inspected geophysical activities. On the island 
of Oahu at a point only a few miles' drive along the pictur- 
esque coast from Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head we 
visited a solar radio telescope run by physicists of the Uni- 
versity of Hawaii, but the main IGY bases are on the largest 
islands, Maui and Hawaii. On Maui, in the great extinct 
crater of Haleakala there is a meteorological station and a 
large observatory for tracking satellites. While some of the 
party visited it, others flew the 200 miles to Hilo, on Hawaii, 
whence we drove nearly to the top of the great active volcano 
Mauna Loa. 



266 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

Hawaii is really a multiple island made up of five separate 
volcanoes on an older part of the mid-ocean ridge. Mauna 
Loa and Mauna Kea, rising to 13,600 and 13,825 feet respec- 
tively, are the dominant peaks, the latter being the tallest 
mountain on earth if one measures its height from its base on 
the ocean floor 20,000 feet below sea level. Mauna Loa erupts 
at times, but Kilauea, one of the smaller peaks, has more nu- 
merous and spectacular eruptions, the last starting in Decem- 
ber 1959 and continuing into 1960. There is a permanent 
volcano observatory there. 

The road we followed climbed steadily for 40 miles. At first 
we passed fields of sugar and other crops by the edge of the 
road, then miles of tropical forests which gradually thinned 
out Rocks showed through the moss. Over them sparse 
trees reached out their branches trying to close the open wood- 
lands, but they seemed unable to maintain the effort and as we 
rose they grew more stunted and faded, till only bushes and 
tussocks of grass lined the hollows in the rock. Suddenly we 
passed on to a recent flow of lava and from there to the top 
the road ran over a lifeless slag-heap. There was nothing but 
crusts of lava, solidified in tortuous whorls, where the viscid, 
seething mass had frozen. The black, shiny surface was 
scarred to reddish dust and clinkers where the road had been 
roughly scraped over the martian landscape. We bumped and 
jolted up and over this wilderness while the air grew chilly 
and the sun overhead more and more blinding. 

At 11,150 feet, the road stopped in front of three huts. We 
stepped out, surprised at the surrounding stillness. A mist so 
thin that it only accentuated the brilliance of the sun brought 
a flurry of snowflakes sweeping up the mountainside. A grey 
puff of cloud from the approaching squall whistled up the 
slope, carrying the circle of a perfect rainbow like a halo on 
its silver head. 

From the tropical airport we had driven to the snowline. 



HAWAII AND NEW ZEALAND 267 

It was windy and cold, and in spite of the desolate beauty of 
the scene, we were glad to enter one of the huts and be greeted 
by the isolated inhabitants three American scientists. 

This station, and much of the road leading to it, was built 
as part of a special program of weather studies initiated by 
the United States Weather Bureau. The research director of 
the Weather Bureau, Harry Wexler, was one of our team and 
he explained the program to us. The IGY had provided the 
opportunity to build several new meteorological stations in 
remote places, six in Antarctica, two on drifting stations on 
the Arctic sea ice, and this one at a great elevation and far 
from any mainland in the tropics. In addition to regular 
weather observations, these stations were making special 
studies of the radiation arriving from the sun and of the pro- 
portion of that radiation reflected back into space, of the 
amounts of ozone, of carbon dioxide, and of nuclear fall-out 
in the atmosphere. The results at these remote sites, uncon- 
taminated by industrial pollution^ provided calibration for 
comparison with regular stations nearer to industry and to 
nuclear-test sites, and gave some indications of the direction 
and rapidity of circulation and mixing in the atmosphere. 
For example, the quantity in the atmosphere of carbon dioxide 
produced by burning fuels varies from day to day, through a 
range of as much as 60 per cent in Europe, but at Mauna 
Loa the range is only i per cent, and at Little America 
only 0.3 per cent. The last two values provide a standard 
against which the variations in settled regions can be checked. 

At Mauna Loa we were shown the chemical apparatus for 
measuring the quantities of different gases present in the at- 
mosphere, and the optical instruments and balloons used for 
sampling them at great heights. We also saw the mechanical 
filters that sample the air for fall-out. Fans suck measured 
volumes of air through filters, trapping the radioactive dust 
blown into the air by nuclear explosions. By counting the 



268 IGY : The Year of the AVvv Moons 

radioactivity of the exposed filters, scientists are able to obtain 
a measure of the nuclear radiation, or fall-out, which is con- 
taminating the air. Outside we inspected the radiometers and 
found that in spite of the cold we got more sunburned than 
the sun-bathers on the beaches below. Because we were above 
much of the atmosphere, we were unshielded and received 
more solar radiation than anyone on the beaches at sea level. 

It is known that the radiant heat from the sun is trapped 
by the ozone, water vapour, and carbon dioxide in the earth's 
atmosphere. Careful measurements of these constituents and 
of the incoming and outgoing radiation at different localities 
will make it possible to determine the relative importance of 
these factors. When their roles are better understood and their 
variations have been charted, we can hope to understand the 
influence they have on changes in weather and climate and 
thus make better forecasts. 

When we came out after lunch, the storm had cleared and 
we looked across the island of Hawaii to Mauna Kea, a giant 
among mountains, and a very broad one, for the lava of which 
it is built has flowed freely to give the slopes a gentle angle. 
Although the eruptions of the Hawaiian and other volcanoes 
on mid-ocean ridges are at times spectacular, hot basalt flows 
freely and does not give rise to terrible explosions like those 
that have killed tens of thousands of people around such 
andesite volcanoes as Krakatoa or Mont Pel6e. Andesite, even 
when hot, is a more viscid lava than basalt. As a result, pres- 
sure builds up in these volcanoes and they are more likely to 
explode. Thus, the andesite volcanoes of the continental frac- 
ture system are more dangerous than the basalt volcanoes of 
the remote ocean islands. Awesome and terrible as volcanic 
eruptions may appear, neither kind is comparable in danger 
to humans to the insidious hazards that would arise from 
abundant radioactive fall-out. 



CD 




270 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

From Hawaii we flew south to Canton Island on the 
equator. This island is a ring of limestone built of coral on the 
peak of an ancient volcano on the mid-ocean ridge, extinct 
and now slowly subsiding. On this lonely atoll an airstrip had 
been built during the war, and there we stopped to refuel. It 
is so small that one can walk from the strip to the coral beach 
and look amid the breakers for pieces of coral and the 
shells of giant clams, but in the black and breathless midnight 
of that visit good shells \vere hard to find. 

It is difficult to imagine a greater contrast than that be- 
tween Canton Island on the one hand and Hawaii, Fiji, and 
New Zealand on the other. Whereas the others are mountain- 
ous, lush, and tropical, Canton is a flat and lifeless desert with- 
out vegetation or any supplies of natural fresh water. On the 
equator the air currents rise straight up, and the moisture- 
bringing winds of most tropical islands do not reach there. Ly- 
ing in the equatorial doldrums, Canton is like a misplaced 
fragment of the Sahara. 

When we reached New Zealand, we paused. These islands 
are remote and their people welcomed the influx of American 
visitors en route to Antarctica. Very kindly the New Zealand- 
ers offered to drive us through much of their pleasant land 
so that we might visit universities and observatories and talk 
to the scientists there. 

I like to think of New Zealand as the youngest and smallest 
of the continents. The thought that New Zealand is a con- 
tinent in the first bloom of youth is a happy one. It is indeed 
a perfect miniature, compounded of the best and fairest scen- 
ery that the earth can offer. The only counterpart to which 
I can liken it would be Switzerland and Italy, if they were 
islands set in a remote ocean and inhabited by only two mil- 
lion unhurried and uncrowded people. 

The history of New Zealand is well summarized in the 
inscription on a monument to the Maori people at Auckland, 



HAWAII AND NEW ZEALAND 271 

New Zealand, "The first known Maori to visit these shores 
was Kupe, a Polynesian navigator, in the year 925. The first 
settlement under Toi took place in 1350, when the ancestors 
of the present Maori race arrived in the now historic canoes, 
Tainui, Aruva, Mata-atua, Aotea, Tahitumu, Horoute, Toho- 
maru, and others. In 1840 the Treaty of Waitangi was signed 
whereby the Maoris accepted the sovereignty of the British 
Crown and were thereby secure in all their rights and privileges 
as British Subjects/ 7 

It is only necessary to add that the first European to dis- 
cover and explore the islands was Captain James Cook in 
1775, and that the terms of the treaty have been observed. 

North Island is the part like Italy. From semi-tropical plains 
and sand beaches around Auckland, one drives south through 
valleys of hot springs, past active volcanoes, and over upland 
pastures, to Wellington, the capital. There a ferry, which is a 
small ocean liner, takes one overnight to South Island. This is 
like Switzerland. Along its western coast are forests, beautiful 
fiords, and the snow-covered Southern Alps. From them, open 
plains sweep to the towns and beaches along the eastern shore. 
One of these towns, Christchurch, is the traditional point of 
departure for the Antarctic. 

Nothing is very large in New Zealand, but the scenery is 
ever varying. The only constant feature is the sea, which laps 
the beaches and the cliff-foot at the end of every road. 

In this idyllic setting live an easy-going, athletic people. To 
a truly remarkable degree their society is uniform and class- 
less. No one appears to be wealthy, the hotels are few and not 
luxurious, the shops are not distinguished. One of our hosts 
said that there was only one really good restaurant in all New 
Zealand, but I found the hotel meals excellent. On the other 
hand, no one is illiterate and no one feels the pinch of pov- 
erty. The universities may be poorly housed and lack facilities 
for research, but their standards are high, their museums 



272 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

imaginative, and their libraries and bookstores both numerous 
and good. 

There may be few mansions and few large cars, but every- 
one has a car, even if it is small and perhaps old. Everyone 
either lives in the country or goes to it for long week-ends. 
The New Zealanders are fully aware of the glory of their empty 
land, and they revel in the ease with which they can drive to 
the beaches for a swim, to the mountains for skiing and climb- 
ing, to the streams for fishing or simply walk the open roads 
through unspoiled country. The price they pay for these 
pleasures is remoteness and strategic weakness, as was brought 
home to them in the last war. They are dependent for their 
livelihood on foreign trade, and as a result they are interested 
in the affairs of the world and have excellent news services. 
They rely largely on radio communication for knowledge of 
the rest of the world. 

On these islands, earthquakes and volcanoes are common- 
place. Wellington, like San Francisco, has through it an active 
fault on which there was a very large earthquake in 1855. 
Auckland and Christchurch are both surrounded by extinct 
craters. Their weather, blown from vast and empty oceans, is 
variable and difficult to predict. The International Geophysi- 
cal Year was thus received by New Zealanders with immense 
interest, because it dealt with problems plain for them to see. 
New Zealand carried on a large and vigorous IGY program 
both on its home islands and on the nearest part of Antarctica. 
Since that part also happens to be the easiest gateway to the 
interior of the continent, many explorers Scott, Shackleton, 
and the Americans since the first Byrd expedition have used 
New Zealand as their jumping-off place. During the IGY the 
Antarctic operations of New Zealand and the United States 
were closely integrated on a most friendly and cordial basis. 

By the time that I visited New Zealand, the IGY programs 
were in a general way familiar to me. In an observatory at 



HAWAII AND NEW ZEALAND 273 

Wellington I was particularly interested to see a Danjon astro- 
labe, an instrument used for making measurements of changes 
in latitude and longitude. Designed by one of the leading 
French scientists of the IGY, it eliminates inaccuracies due 
to human judgement. Slight changes in latitude and longitude 
are attributed to a slight wobbling of the earth upon its axis, 
but we do not yet know whether the movements are progres- 
sive. If they are, observations carried on over a period of time 
should confirm this and show whether the poles of the earth 
are moving relative to the earth as a whole or whether there 
is in addition a relative motion between different parts of the 
earth. 

Because New Zealand is an isolated island, it is an obvious 
place to look for evidence of continental drift. At the present 
time we not only are not sure about the existence or rate of 
these motions but we also do not know whether the continents 
are growing. The evidence, I believe, suggests that they are. 

Continents, like humans, go through an infant stage, then 
youth, and in maturity, marriage and the union of several in- 
dividuals into a family. The principal continents probably 
all started over two billion years ago as separate islands. Vol- 
canoes on the margins of these islands fed them with lava 
from within the earth. The lava was eroded into sedimentary 
rocks, and these were piled up into mountains, which after 
long periods were levelled off. As the islands grew, they joined 
together, forming compound units. If this view is correct, 
the three centres from which North America developed 
were cemented into the heart of the continent and worn down 
to plains. These centres, which two billion years ago were three 
separate volcanic islands, now form the bed-rock of large 
areas lying north of Lake Superior, north of Great Slave Lake, 
and under the plains of Montana and Wyoming. The bound- 
aries, and indeed the very existence of these continental nuclei, 
have only been ascertained in recent years by studies of the 



274 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

age of natural radioactive minerals, which act as clocks. After 
these centres had been joined, the Appalachian Mountains 
and, more recently, the Cordillera were added. At present the 
continent is active and growing along its entire west coast and 
along the Caribbean. Inexorably, but extremely slowly, the 
land is being built out unto the Pacific and towards South 
America. Like an egg that has cracked while being boiled so 
that gouts of white ooze out upon the shell, so has the earth 
cracked and exuded its continents. This opinion that the 
continents are growing is supported by evidence that the 
oceans and the atmosphere are also increasing through the 
addition of steam and gases from volcanoes. New Zealand 
may be a new continent in its first stage of growth. 

This account may seem fanciful to some, for it is not what 
the old school taught, but the wider shores of knowledge of 
the universe which have been opened to our view through the 
windows of physics are forcing a complete reorientation in 
our ideas about the earth. In all, I think the simplest explana- 
tion of the origin of our surroundings is that the earth, in its 
youth, melted and then froze to a rather smooth surface, 
without any atmosphere or oceans. That surface is now buried. 
Everything above it crust, air, and oceans has been ex- 
truded from within the earth by slow volcanic action, such as 
we see today. The original surface may be the Mohorovicic 
discontinuity, or it may be some shallower level within the 
crust. Drilling the Mohole will help us to find out. 

If the continents and the waters of the oceans are both 
growing, then one would expect the seas to flood and submerge 
the low plains of the continents. The fact that this has not 
happened, except to a minor extent, is an argument for the 
theory of an expanding earth, ff the mid-ocean ridges are 
widening along their central cracks, the increase in the ocean 
basins can provide room for the waters flowing from within. 
If the continents are growing, then the large islands that 



AWAII AND NEW ZEALAND 275 

je them, like the West Indies, Madagascar, Greenland, 
mesia, and the island chains along the Pacific shores of 
, are all destined to become incorporated. Some of the is- 
s, like Madagascar and Greenland, seem to have been 
i as small independent continents, but in the vast history 
te earth they would appear to have no long future as sepa- 
entities. New Zealand, born a mere five hundred million 
; ago, made of the stuff of continents, growing by con- 
ital processes, far removed from other lands, is perhaps 
; ned some day, a billion years after man's brief span, to 
the race of giants the continents. Other remote islands, 
Hawaii and Canton in the Pacific, or Iceland, the Azores, 
Ascension in the Atlantic, lie on the mid-ocean ridge and 
Qg to a different race, not destined to grow. They are 
infant Herculeses, but scions of a separate pygmy stock, 
basalt lavas of the mid-ocean ridge are not poured out 
tdantly and hence do not constitute as rich a food on 
h to grow as is provided by the more numerous andesite 
inoes of the continents* If in future ages these basalt is- 
s are carried into collision with continents, they will be 
whelmed, and New Zealand would be welded on as an 
tion. Thus, the ocean floors and their remote islands are 
oung and forever being renewed, but the continents are 
ikable and old and like froth floating forever down the 
of time above the slowly churning eddies of the mantle, 
lis is the story of the origin of mountains, islands, and 
inents as I see it. It is still very uncertain. In the last 
de so many new discoveries and new suggestions have 
made that our old ideas have been thoroughly shaken, 
new concepts have not yet crystallized. In science such 
ids of uncertainty mark the eras of greatest progress, for 
; in flux and contradictions waiting to be reconciled spur 
to his mightiest efforts. From the present confusion we 
confidently expect vast and enduring concepts to emerge. 



CHAPTER 22 



FALL-OUT 



Nuclear Radiation was the name given to the IGY program 
that dealt with radiation caused by the decay of nuclear or 
atomic particles in air, water, or on land. The term was an 
unfortunate and confusing choice. Nuclear radiation refers to 
the radioactive isotopes of chemical elements produced in 
nuclear explosions and has nothing to do with the electro- 
magnetic radiation that comes as waves of heat and light from 
the sun. 

The radioactive isotopes included in the study of nuclear 
radiation are formed in four ways. Some were formed at the 
time of creation, along with the other elements; some are pro- 
duced by cosmic-ray bombardment; some are made artificially 
in nuclear reactors; and some are generated in atomic explo- 
sions* 

Let us consider first the radioactive elements formed at the 
time of creation. About a dozen isotopes of different elements 
in nature have been found to be feebly radioactive and to de- 
cay very slowly into isotopes which are stable. The continued 
existence of some of these radioactive isotopes in spite of 
the fact that they are constantly wasting away is only pos- 



FALL-OUT 277 

sible because they decay very slowly. Nevertheless, the im- 
plication is that they were formed at a not infinitely remote 
time. In fact, the rate of decay suggests that that time was 
about five billion years ago. This is now considered to be the 
probable date of the creation of all the elements in the solar 
system, although the elements in stars other than the sun and 
in other galaxies may have been formed at different, un- 
known, times. The solar system, including the earth, took 
shape out of these elements at a slightly later date, about four 
and a half billion years ago. 

Of the dozen long-lived isotopes found in nature, five are 
quantitatively important: uranium-238, uranium-235, tho- 
rium-232, rubidium-87, and potassium-4o. These isotopes are 
widely scattered in small concentrations and occur almost ev- 
erywhere in rocks, soil, water, and air, and even in human 
beings. None of these elements is dangerous to handle, and 
because the atmosphere very effectively shields us from most 
of the radiation emanating from outer space, over three quar- 
ters of all the radiation which affects us comes, and always 
has come, from these five isotopes. These isotopes are useful 
for determining the time when rocks were deposited, and 
they provide the chief clocks for our time scale of the earth. 

One of them, potassium-4o, is the source of most of the 
radiation that humans and other animals receive because 
it is a constituent of their bodies. Uranium and thorium do 
not occur in normal tissues in appreciable amounts, but ra- 
dium, one of the elements formed by the decay of tissue, is 
found in small quantities in bones. Another, radon gas, can 
be detected in the air. At a conference in Utrecht in 1957, 
L. Machta pointed out that radon is constantly generated by 
rocks and that it has a half-life of only three and a half days. 
As a consequence, some air over land may have five hundred 
times as much radon as air that has spent a long time over 
the sea, where no radon is being generated. Since radon de- 



278 I G Y : The Year of the New Moons 

cays and is not renewed in air masses over the oceans, radon, 
he suggested, can be used to identify air masses and to trace 
their history. However, the proposal has not been widely put 
into practice. 

The second kind of natural radiation is produced by the un- 
stable isotopes produced by cosmic-ray bombardment. Cos- 
mic rays are in themselves a form of radiation; in addition, 
they can knock other atoms about, creating radioactive iso- 
topes which decay at a later time. The following are the iso- 
topes so far discovered, with their average duration: 

Beryllium-io 2,700,000 years 

Carbon-i4 5,600 years 

SiIicon-32 700 years 

Hydrogen-3 (Tritium) 12,5 years 

Sodium-22 2. 6 years 

Sulphur-35 87 days 

Beryllium-7 53 days 

Phosphorous-33 25 days 

Phosphorous-32 14 days 

Chlorine-39 i hour 

The most important of the isotopes produced by cosmic rays 
is carbon-i4. According to J. R. Arnold and E. A. Martell, 
it causes only about one per cent of the feeble internal radio- 
activity present in humans, of which potassium-4o is the chief 
contributor. In the whole atmosphere and oceans and in living 
matter there are about 100 tons of this isotope, mostly in the 
form of carbon-dioxide gas dissolved in the oceans. There is 
about one ton in the atmosphere. Next in importance among 
the products of cosmic rays is tritium, as the highly radioac- 
tive isotope, hydrogen-3, is called. Before atomic bombs were 
exploded, there were only about 20 pounds of this on earth. 
The fact that such a small quantity could be detected even 



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28o IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

though it is thoroughly mixed with the atmosphere is an in- 
dication of the powerful nature of radioactive poisons. 

Until 1932 all radioactivity was formed naturally, in one of 
these two ways. In that year Frederic and Irene Joliot-Curie 
produced the first artificial radioisotopes, but they were not 
created in large numbers until the first nuclear explosion in 
1945. The third kind of nuclear radiation, then, is that arti- 
ficially created in controlled laboratory machines and in nu- 
clear reactors. Many of the radioactive isotopes so formed, like 
cobalt-6o, are useful for the treatment of disease and for in- 
dustrial purposes. Some of them are suitable for release in the 
sea or air as markers and can be used like a dye to tag bodies 
of water or masses of air so that movements and rates of dis- 
persion can be measured. 

Had these three been the only kinds of nuclear radiation, 
their study might not have been included in the IGY, but 
there is a fourth kind that resulting from explosion of 
nuclear bombs. The descent to earth of the abundant artificial 
radioactive isotopes created in atomic explosions is known as 
fall-out. The isotopes generally fall incorporated in clouds of 
very fine dust. 

Although fall-out was already under investigation, much 
of the work was secret. During the IGY additional data were 
collected, and these were made available to the public. In 
spite of the political implications, no less than forty countries 
announced that they would participate in the program, and 
data from over half of them, including some results from 
Communist countries, had reached World Data Centre A in 
Washington by the end of 1959. The U.S.S.R. did not partici- 
pate in this program. 

The enormous controversy that has been associated with 
discussions of fall-out is of course a result of the potentially 
lethal effects of fall-out. But these can only be understood 
and guarded against if the physical phenomena with which 



FALL-OUT 281 

fall-out is associated are understood. Fortunately, a study of 
fall-out has revealed information of value about atmospheric 
circulation. 

After any nuclear explosion many tiny solid particles are 
carried up into the atmosphere. This fine dust is radioactive, 
for it contains about one hundred different radioactive isotopes 
created during the explosion as products of nuclear fission. 
Their relative abundance can tell much about the bomb that 
was their source. If the explosion takes place on the ground, 
the radioactive isotopes are more numerous than if it takes 
place high in the air or over water. If the explosion is large, 
such as that caused by a megaton H-bomb, a heavy fall-out 
occurs near the site during the first few hours, but a fireball 
carries the rest of the isotopes into the stratosphere, which 
begins at a height of from 30,000 to 55,000 feet. Once in the 
stratosphere, the particles are above the sources of rainfall. 
At one time it was thought that they would remain there as 
long as five years; this is now less certain. If, on the other 
hand, the explosion is smaller, such as from a kiloton A-bomb, 
then the fireball does not rise so high but remains in the lower 
atmosphere, or troposphere. In this case the radioactive dust 
is all brought down with rain and snow in a few months. Due 
to the nature of tropospheric circulation, little of this fall-out 
crosses the equator; most of it comes down in the hemisphere 
in which the explosion takes place. Stratospheric fall-out is the 
more important because, being generated by large explosions, 
it is more abundant, and because it may reach all parts of 
the world. 

The IGY program concentrated on collecting data about 
the fall-out due to small solid particles in various parts of the 
world. This was done either by exposing sheets of gummed 
paper to the air and measuring their radioactivity, or by pump- 
ing measured volumes of air through suitable filters to trap 
the tiny particles. The apparatus we saw in operation on 



Sr -90 in the slrafcosphetfc (icrocuries per square mile) 




Theoretical estimate of strontium-9o in the stratosphere (above 40,000 
feet) based upon the assumption that half of the strontium-go will 
fall out in five years and that there will be no more nuclear tests. 



283 

Mauna Loa was an example of the latter procedure. One un- 
expected result of these studies has been a great increase in 
our knowledge of the circulation of the upper air. 

At first it was supposed that the main fall-out from large 
explosions would settle down from the stratosphere very 
slowly and at a uniform rate all over the world. But the fall-out, 
it was discovered, settled much more rapidly than had been 
envisaged. In particular, large and small Soviet test explosions 
in mid-latitudes resulted in much heavier falls in the northern 
than in the southern hemisphere. On the other hand, the fall- 
out from large American and British explosions in the equa- 
torial regions came down from the stratosphere at a slower 
rate. It was then realized that in mid-latitudes mixing might 
occur between the troposphere and stratosphere in the vicinity 
of the strong currents known as jet-streams. Such mixing in 
mid-latitudes would explain the faster rate of fall-out from 
Soviet explosions in Siberia, and the absence of mixing over 
the equator would account for the slower rate of fall-out there. 
The matter was explored further in experiments conducted 
during the last American tests. The metals tungsten and 
rhodium were incorporated into the bombs to produce unu- 
sual radioisotopes, and the particles tagged in this way con- 
firmed the earlier theories. In this way bomb tests have been 
used to improve our knowledge of circulation in the upper 
atmosphere. 

Other measurements have shown that as a result of nuclear 
explosions the amount of carbon-i4 in the atmosphere has 
doubled from one to two tons and the amount of tritium has 
increased from 20 to 100 pounds. But the effects of these in- 
creases are not yet serious; the total radiation so produced is 
still far less than the radioactivity of natural uranium, tho- 
rium, and potassium. 

It is of interest to mention the possible effects of fall-out 
on human beings. The particular danger of fall-out is that of 




CO 
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tn 




Structure of upper atmosphere as revealed by fall-out. From small 
explosions it drops locally and quickly. However, in high latitudes fall- 
out from large explosions leaks down in the same hemisphere more 
quickly than fall-out in equatorial regions. 



286 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

about a hundred products of fission, four tend to be trapped 
in the human body. Hence, they can easily become concen- 
trated in sufficient amounts to produce dangerous radioactive 
radiation within humans. Two of these radioactive isotopes, 
iodine-i3i and barium-i4o, have short lives and can only be 
dangerous for a few weeks or months after an explosion. Stron- 
tium-go and cesium-137, however, collect in bones and flesh 
respectively and remain dangerous for periods comparable with 
the span of human life. 

Fall-out is not entirely new; it is an addition to a natural 
phenomenon that has always existed. We have to consider 
separately the dangers to existing creatures and to future gen- 
erations. We must also distinguish between the dangers of 
the present situation, which is not generally regarded as seri- 
ous, and the dangers that may arise if nuclear explosions and 
atomic waste are allowed to continue to contaminate the air 
and water. Natural radioactivity is not dangerous, but exposure 
to massive doses of radiation, such as have been released in 
a few accidents in nuclear physics laboratories, is quickly 
lethal. Between these extremes is a very wide range, and we 
have not yet had enough experience to fix the safety limits. 

Natural radiation causes genetic changes by occasionally 
damaging the very complex molecules through which charac- 
teristics are transmitted. Most genetic changes, or mutations, 
are harmful, and we know that natural radiation already 
creates some imperfect offspring. But no one knows the ex- 
tent to which these effects would be increased by increases in 
radioactivity. If a certain increase in radioactivity would pro- 
duce congenital defects in one birth in a million, or cancer 
in one person in a million, then, some have argued, this is 
not very important and the necessity of testing weapons for 
defence purposes justifies the increaed suffering. Others em- 
phasize that there are 2,500 million people in the world and 



FALL-OUT 287 

that to cause 2,500 more children to be deformed or 2,500 
more people to suffer from cancer is intolerable. 

Biologists are now hard at work on these problems, for 
it is certain that we need additional information not only in 
the event of other nuclear explosions, but also in order to be 
able to control the hazards produced by natural radioactivity 
and by the operation of nuclear reactors for peaceful uses. 

In July 1959 a study by the New York Operations Office 
of the United States Atomic Energy Commission was pub- 
lished, comparing the effects of the existing level of fall-out 
with natural radioactivity. The report states that "the maxi- 
mum foreseeable dose from strontium-go in the New York 
area is thereby estimated to be about 5 per cent of the dose 
due to natural radioactivity." This does not sound like a very 
serious increase, until one realizes that the distribution is not 
uniform. J. L. Kulp has made extensive studies of the varia- 
tions and concludes that whereas many children will be 
subject to less than the average increase of 5 per cent, some 
will be exposed to more, and a few to much more, as much 
as double, or 200 per cent of the natural amount. According 
to Kulp, even if no more atomic bombs are exploded, the dose 
in most children will continue to increase until 1966, as they 
absorb more and more of the strontium-go already formed. 
After that time, the natural decay of strontium-go will ex- 
ceed the amount eaten and absorbed. The present situation, 
it would seem, is not alarming, but additional explosions 
would be certain to increase the hazard, unless they were 
confined below ground. 



CHAPTER 23 



ANTARCTICA 



NOVEMBER 1958 

The last outbound stage in my travels was from New 
Zealand to Antarctica. It is a journey which only a few thou- 
sand men and a dozen women have ever made. All of them 
must have been impressed, for as the fields and gardens, the 
forests and the towns of New Zealand fade behind, one leaves 
the land of familiar things to enter scenes of icy splendour, of 
grandeur and desolation, and of human endeavours unmatched 
on earth. 

Antarctica is unlike any other continent. Uninhabited and 
virtually without life, it is still entirely in the ice age. Sepa- 
rated from other lands by thousands of miles of sea and storm, 
it is isolated and alone. It is the land of the absolute. No one 
comes here casually. Every action must be planned; nothing 
can be left to chance. It is a continent of extremes and of 
contrasts where there is no middle way. 

On November 6 we got up at dawn, had breakfast, and 
drove through silent streets bathed in the golden misty light 
of spring sunrise, to the airfield at Christchurch. Every house 
was shut and dark, but in the wonderful New Zealand gardens 
the walls and fences overflowed with roses and wistaria. In 



ANTARCTICA 289 

the low orange light the grass glistened, but in the shadows 
it was white with drops of dew. At the airfield we clambered 
up the steps to the plane, feeling clumsy, self-conscious, and 
hot in mulduks and padded trousers, unbuttoned woollen 
shirts and underwear, and carrying bags full of parkas and 
mittens, sun glasses and scarves, which seemed so unneces- 
sary at Christchurch but which would be vital at our destina- 
tion. At the moment they served to remind us how long our 
journey would be and how far removed from the ordinary 
world was the polar continent. 

Strapped in our seats and facing backwards in the United 
States Navy's Super Constellation, sixty-five of us scientists, 
Navy men, and newspaper correspondents saw the green 
coasts and distant hills of South Island slip away in the sun- 
light as we plunged into the decks of cloud that swirl over 
the Southern Ocean. For many hours little was to be seen but 
grey clouds, and through them glimpses of the dark and 
churning ocean whose waves broke into plumes of flying foam 
before and swathes of breaking surf behind. By radio we 
learned that the weather ship at the halfway point was rolling 
up to 55 degrees in 1 8-foot waves. 

Then we saw the ice. At first I was not sure whether the 
white patches might not be just the crests of breaking waves, 
but soon bigger pieces of a blue-white colour were unmistak- 
able. At the next break in the clouds, the whole sea was cov- 
ered with pans of ice rocking slowly up and down as a steady 
swell rolled past them. Finally the motion died away, and 
the sea below was covered with an apparently motionless but 
broken pack of ice, frozen last winter and now gradually thaw- 
ing and breaking up under the continuous play of summer 
sun and southern winds. From this thin skin upon the ocean 
protruded a few much higher icebergs that had last year broken 
off the Antarctic ice cliffs and glaciers and had drifted this 
far to the north before being frozen in the pack. 



290 IGY : The Year of the New Moons 

Each winter the sea around Antarctica freezes for a distance 
of hundreds of miles, and each spring the ice breaks up; some 
of it drifts north and melts, but it never all thaws before being 
caught and frozen again. Ships venturing to Antarctica must 
always force their way through it. 

As we approached the continent some seven hours and 2,000 
miles after leaving New Zealand, the sky cleared. The sun's 
reflection from the ice dazzled us, until we put on dark glasses. 
Then we saw it in the distance the land of Antarctica as 
white and brilliant as the sea ice, but standing up bold and 
formidable in mighty cliffs and mountains. Our first sight- 
ing was not of the mainland but of the inaccessible Balleny 
Islands, mile-high volcanoes scintillating in the sun. We esti- 
mated that they were between 30 and 50 miles away, but such 
is the magnitude and clarity of the polar scene that, as we 
later learned from the radar operator, our nearest approach 
was 102 miles. They are outposts off Antarctica on the mid- 
ocean ridge. 

Soon afterwards we passed over Capes Adare and Hallet, 
headlands of the coast, whose bold cliffs mark the corner 
where the Ross Sea joins the Southern Ocean and whose black 
rocks stem the flood of inland ice. 

The whole continent is covered with a smooth sheet of ice 
which floods and pours o