UC-NRLF
117 DfiE
II
MS!
^S <1>
CTTITURIST.
BY
ANDREW S. FULLER,
HOB.TICULTTJKIST.
ORANGE JUDD & COMPANY, 245 BROADWAY
AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS.
Price, 2O cents.
OF THE
a!
Division
Range
Shelf.
rumsT.
id.
devoted to small
ve the information
ial works that the
ibject, and not be
ks that cover the
iting Small Fruits,
While very full on
r e been more care-
ortant part of his
Charles Downing.
The chapter on gathering and packing the fruit is a valuable one,
and in it are figured all the baskets and boxes now in common use.
The book is very finely and thoroughly illustrated, and makes an
admirable companion to the Grape Culturist, by the same author.
CONTENTS:
CHAP. I.
CHAP. II.
CHAP. III.
CHAP. IV.
JHAP. V.
CHAP. VL
BARBERRY.
STRAWBERRY.
RASPBERRY.
BLACKBERRY.
DWARF CHERRY.
CURRANT.
CHAP. VII. GOOSEBERRY.
CHAP. VIII. CORNELIAN CHERRY
CHAP. IX. CRANBERRY.
CHAP. X. HUCKLEBERRY.
CHAP. XL SHEPERDIA.
CHAP. XII. PREPARATION roh
GATHERING FRUIT.
Sent post-paid. Price $1 50.
ORANGE JTJDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New-York
TBIOMPHE DE GAND,
Drawn exact size, from the three premium berries at the American AgriovlturUt
Exhibition June, 1862.
THE
ILLUSTRATED
STRAWBERRY CCLTBMST:
CONTAINING TUB
HI8TOEY, SEXUALITY, FIELD AND GARDEN CULTURE OF STRAWBERRIES,
FORCING OE POT CULTURE, HOW TO GROW FROM SEED, HYBRIDIZ-
ING ; RESULTS OF EXTENSIVE EXPERIMENTS WITH SEEDLINGS,
AKD ALL OTHER INFORMATION NMOE8SABY TO ENABLE EVERYBODY TO RAISE THEIR
OWM STK A WHERRIES ; TOGETHER WITH A FULL DESCRIPTION OP NEW
VARIETIES AND A LIST OF THB BBST OF THK OLD SORTS.
WITH BECEIPTS FOR
DIFFERENT MODES OF PRESERVING, COOKING, AND PREPARING STRAW-
BERRIES FOR THE TABLE.
FULLY ILLUSTRATED BY
ani Ualttable <8wjjralrittg0
BY ANDREW S. FULLER,
^ovttrulturist.
Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never dtd. JBAAO WALT>H
NEW- YORK:
ORANGE JUDD & CO., 245 BROADWAY,
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1862, by
ANDREW 8. FULLEB
In the Clerk's Cfflce of the District Court of the United States for the Southern
District of New York.
THE ILLUSTRATED
STRAWBERRY CULTURIST.
THE STRAWBERRY.
BOTANICAL NAME.
THE botanical name of the strawberry is Fragraria (from the Latin
fragro, to smell sweetly). Its French name is Fraisier; German, JErrf-
beerpflanze; Italian, Pianti difragola; Dutch, Aadbezie; Spanish, Freza
South American Spaniards, Fruttfla.
The following are some of the best-known species :
Fragraria vesca, wood strawberry, fruit red, white, and green native
of Britain.
F. collina, Alpine strawberry, white and red Alps Mountains
Europe.
F. Indica, yellow fruited India.
F. dator, Hautbois or Highwood, pale red Germany.
F. Virginiana, Virginian strawberry, red United States.
F. grandiflora, large flowering, red and white by some botanists sai ..
to be a native of the Southern States ; others give its native place a- 1
South America.
F. Chitiensis, Chili strawberry ; by some it is called the same at
ffrandiflora, and by others as distinct South America
The following are sometimes classed as species, and by others oa
sub -species or varieties :
F. Canodensis Canada,.
F. colydna large calyx.
F. monophylla one-leaved.
F. planLinoides plane-leaved.
F. Bmarensis Buenos Ayrea.
F. Ittindsensis Illinois.
6 THE 8TKAWBEKRY CULTTTKIST.
It belongs to Class 12, Icosandria Polyandria of the Linnsean or arti-
ficial system of botany, or in Rosacece or Rose family of the natural
arrangement.
Stamens, more than ten on calyx, surrounding the pistils mostly
low, creeping plants, with perennial roots many species and sub-
species found growing wild in the temperate and cold climates of both
hemispheres.
HISTORY OP THE STRAWBERRY.
How the name of Strawberry came to be applied to this fruit is un-
known, as the old authors do not agree ; some asserting that it was
given it because children used to string them upon straws to sell, while
others say that it took its name from the fact of straw being placed
around the plants in order to keep the fruit clean. Its name may not
have been derived from either of these, but from the appearance of
the plant ; for when the ground is covered with its runners, they cer-
tainly have much of the appearance of straw being spread over the
ground. We have found nothing conclusive on this point.
The strawberry does not appear to have been cultivated by the
ancients, or even by the Romans, for it is scarcely mentioned by any
of their writers, and then not in connection with the cultivated fruits
or vegetables. Virgil mentions it only when warning the shepherds
against the concealed adder when seeking flowers and strawberries.
Ovid mentions the Alpine and wood strawberries, and Pliny speaks
of it as one of the few native fruits of Italy.
From what we learn from these and other ancient writers, we con-
clude that the cultivation of the strawbeny belongs wholly to modern
tunes, or about 400 years since. Yet there does not appear to have
been any highly-improved varieties in cultivation one hundred years
ago, although the strawberry was much cultivated in gardens in the
beginning of the fifteenth century.
Casper Bauhin, in his "Pinax," published in 1623, mentions but
five varieties. Gerarde, in 1597, enumerates but three the white,
red, and green fruited.
Parkinson, in 1656, describes the Virginian and Bohemian, besides
those mentioned by Gerarde. Quintinie, in his "French Gardener,"
THE STRAWBERRY CULTTJRIST. 7
translated by Evelyn in 1672, mentions only four varieties, and gives
directions for cultivation similar to that practiced by some of the best
cultivators at the present time, viz., planting in August, removing all
the runners so soon as they appear, and renewing the beds every four
years. j
Only four or five varieties are mentioned by any of the old writers
on gardening earlier than about 120 years ago. Switzer, in 1724, enu-
merates only four kinds ; therefore we conclude that few, if any, but
the wild varieties were in cultivation at that time.
The Cappron strawberry (or Fressant, as it was afterward called),
which is mentioned by Quintinie, was the first improved variety. It
was obtained at Montreuil, in France, and is said to have been a seed-
ling of the wood strawberry.
The Hautbois was said by Miller to have been carried to England
from this country, and Parkinson, in 1629, said that it had been with
them but of late days, and that it was brought over from America by
Quester, the postmaster. The native country of this species is now
supposed to have been Germany, where it is called the Haarbeer. The
old French gardeners called it the " Capiton."
The Chili strawberry is supposed to have been introduced into South
America by the Spaniards, from their colonies in Mexico. It was
planted by them at the foot of the Cordillera Mountains, near Quito,
and it was from here that M. Frazier obtained it and carried it to
Marseilles, in 1716. It was the largest variety then known.
It is now found on nearly every island in the Southern Ocean, wher-
ever the Spaniards have made settlements. "That the Chiliensis and
the grandiflvra are very nearly related, if not the same species, there is
but little doubt.
Miller introduced the Chili strawberry into England in 1727 ; but it
proved to be so unproductive that, after cultivating it for nine years,
he said that its cultivation would have to be abandoned on this
account. He also speaks of the large flowers and deformed fruit of
this species, which is one of the characteristics of nearly every variety
that has been grown in Europe or America from the Chili species.
The Fragrcria Chiliensis and F. grandift&ra appear to be varieties or
species from which the varieties mostly cultivated in Europe have
O THE STRAWBERRY CTJLTURI8T.
been grown. The varieties raised there are generally larger, not ai
productive, sweet, but not rich, having less of that aromatic flavor so
much admired by Americans. These varieties do not flourish as well
in our climate as those grown from the F, Virginiana. Seldom do we
get a large variety from Europe that succeeds well in this country,
simply because they are grown from the more tender species.
But little improvement was made in the strawberry until the Euro-
pean cultivators commenced raising seedlings from the American spe-
cies, which were found susceptible of great improvement, without any
special effort or the application of any great scientific skill in their
culture.
About the beginning of the present century, practical experiments
began in England by cross-breeding and hybridizing species and varie-
ties, and the results were soon apparent from the increased number of
large and fine varieties. Those that attracted the most attention at
that time were the Roseberry, raised by E. Davidson, in 1 810 ; Down-'
ton, by T. A. Knight, in 1816 ; Grove End Scarlet, by Atkinson, 1820 ;
Keen's Seedling, 1823 5 Elton, by Knight, 1828. Then Myatt fol-
lowed with his Pine, Prince Albert, Eliza, British Queen, etc. A host
of other growers were at work producing other fine varieties in in-
numerable numbers.
The French, Belgian, and other continental strawberry growers were
also in the field, and the results are that the strawberry has become
one of the great fruits of Europe.
Here we did not commence quite so soon, or go to work so earnestly
as did our transatlantic friends ; yet many fine varieties (or those con-
sidered so) were produced twenty years ago.
The production of Hovey's Seedling, in 1834, gave a new impetus to
the production of new varieties, and it has been kept up with such
vigor that, probably, at the present time, we possess as many and as
fine varieties produced in this country as can be found in any other.
THE SEXUAMTY OF STRAWBERRIES.
We find, on examining the blossoms of strawberries in cultivation,
that while in some are found both stamens and pistils others have
only stamens, and others still only pistils. The first, represented by
THE 8TEAWBERKY CULTURI8T. V
Figure 1, are called perfect, natural, bisexual, or hermaphrodite varie-
ties. Figure 2 shows the staminate or male blossom, and Figure 3 the
pistillate or female. A plant of the first kind will bear fruit without
reference to any other ; the pistillates are only productive when plant-
ed near a perfect or a staminate variety, by which it is fertilized ; and
a staminate is, under all circumstances, barren.
Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Pig. 3.
The war of words that has raged relative to the sexuality of the
strawberry, ever since the days of Keen, who reported his observations
to the London Horticultural Society in 1809, has been both instructive
and amusing. The tenacity with which certain parties hold to the
theory that pistillates are and ever will be the most productive, would
certainly be worthy of admiration if exhibited in a better cause.
Claiming, as they do, that the strawberry has been placed in the
wrong class by botanists, and that the discovery of the fact that there
exist certain varieties which possess only one sex of the organs of
reproduction instead of two, was the stepping-stone upon which the
cultivator could, if he would, reach a higher grade in the scale of pro-
gression than it was possible for him to do in the absence of this won-
derful discovery. They have kept alive this contest for half a cen-
tury ; and still, every season, when the strawberry breaks forth into
bloom, it recommences.
For my own part, I do not expect to see this question settled by dis-
cussion ; it rests with cultivators to say whether they will encourage
the introduction of varieties that necessitate the cultivation of two for
the sake of getting a good crop from one, and at the same time be
subjected to the labor and extreme difficulty of keeping the varieties
separate when planted in the close proximity always necessary to in
Bure perfect fertilization.
10 THE STKAWBERKY CULTUKIST.
Before leaving this sexual question, I will state a few facts derived
from study and experience.
All the botanists that have ever classified plants according to. the
Linnsean or artificial arrangement have uniformly placed the straw-
berry in Icosandria, which class is founded upon the circumstance of
the number and position of the stamens being more than ten, and situ-
ated on the calyx. Therefore it is evident that all of the old botanists
found the different species of the strawberry uniformly of this charac-
ter. Had it not been so, they would certainly have mentioned the
fact, or have placed it in another class ; but none of them ever dis-
covered a strawberry in its normal condition varying sufficiently to
warrant them in changing it from the position where it was first
placed in botany.
Since the natural arrangement of botany has come into use, no
botanist has attempted or dared to question its right to the position it
held in Icosandria of the artificial or Rosacece of the natural arrange-
ment. If, as has been claimed, the strawberry in its wild state uni-
formly produced flowers containing only pistils, and others with only
stamens, then, under the Linnaean system, it would have been placed
in Dicecia, or Class 20.
Now the question arises, whether we shall declare that all botanists
whose reputation for scientific attainments is unblemished were wrong,
and that a few would-be botanists are right, or vice versa ? Or shall we,
laying all prejudice aside, acknowledge that the scientific botanist is
right, and that these changes which have been observed are the effects
of cultivation and hybridization, or were caused by changes in the
vegetable kingdom, the result of the gradual change of the face of the
country, consequent upon the march of civilization, which does often
in a manner affect even the indigenous plants of the country ? Thus,
the wild strawberry of North America is found to produce varieties
having no stamens, and occasionally they are found growing wild;
but whether these wild plants are offsprings from cultivated pistillates
it is impossible to determine, but it is reasonable to suppose that they
are, as pistillates were not discovered wild until cultivated pistillates
were common.
To show that the pistillate is not the normal condition of the straw-
THE STEAWBEEEY CTJLTUEIST. 11
berry, we have but to sow their seeds and watch the result. From
two hundred seeds gathered from a pistillate variety I produced but
one pistillate ; all the others were perfect or bisexual.
In another experiment I produced sixty pistillates and one staminate
in one thousand plants ; all the rest were perfect. But, it may be
asked, how came the staminate or male variety? In reply, I would
itate that there is no reason why any species of plant that will change
from a bisexual to a pistillate may not change to a staminate or bar-
ren plant. So that this question resolves itself into this, that any
other form of flower than that named by the scientific botanist is un-
natural. The cause of this change may or may not be known.
By cultivation, man has produced a double flower on the rose, peach,
cherry, apple, plum, etc., from the single flower of nature.
By cultivation, or other artificial causes, we have produced from the
wild strawberry, with its stamens and pistils both perfect in one
flower (see Figure 4), those that possess no pistils (see Figure 2).
Then, again, we have those in which the stamens are undeveloped while
Fig. 4. JFig. 5.
the pistils are perfect (see Figure 5). In others, one flower on the
plant will have no stamens, while another flower will have both per-
fect. Many other variations occur, produced by cultivation, soils, and
situation under which the plants are placed, such as a part or all oi
THE STRAWBERRY CTTLTURI8T.
the flowers producing no fruit, or going blind, as it is called by culti-
vators. This often occurs when plants are forced under glass.
Naturally the strawberry flower has
five petals (see Figure 4) ; but in cul-
tivated varieties we often see more,
seven being a number often seen in
the larger varieties. Figure 6 rep-
resents a flower of Due de Malakoff
with seven petals.
These are only a few of the many
changes which are constantly occur-
ring, and they admonish us to be
careful how we jump at a conclusion
without careful investigation.
As to the assertion of some culti-
Flg< 6t vators, that pistillate varieties, when
properly fertilized, are more productive than the bisexual varieties, it
is only necessary to state that the most productive varieties now known
are of the latter class, of which Wilson's Albany, Downer, Bonte de St.
Julien, etc., are well-known specimens.
CUI/TURE, ETC. SOILS.
Any moderately rich, deep loam will, in this latitude, produce a
good crop of strawberries ; but it is equally true that some soils and
situations are better adapted to particular varieties than others. For
instance, the Scotch Runner and Early Scarlet will thrive upon a dry
sandy soil, where it is almost impossible to keep some of our new im-
proved kmds alive.
As a class the strawberry requires a deep moist soil, one that is open
and porous, not heavy, or having clay predominant. The strawberry
requires an abundance of moisture, and whatever the other conditions
are, let the supply of this be regular and there will be but little diffi-
culty in obtaining a bountiful crop. How this moisture can be the
most readily supplied must be decided by the cultivator. If the soil
is naturally heavy, then it should be underdrained and subsoiled ; if
it is gravelly or sandy, then fibrous muck or some similar material
THE STKAWBERKY CULTURIST. 13
must be added, so that it shall be capable of retaining moisture.
Deep plowing, thoroughly pulverizing the soil, with a liberal supply
of mulching, is usually all that will be needed to insure a constant
supply of moisture.
MANURE.
That all plants require food is evident, and if the soil does not con-
tain it in sufficient quantities it must be supplied. Of this, and how
much manure, if any, is required, every cultivator must be his own
judge, remembering that the strawberry requires a good rich soil, but
not so rich as is necessary to grow many other crops.
Caution against putting on too much manure I think is needless, for
very few will be guilty of such an act.
KIND OF MANURE.
There is but little ch.oice in the kinds of manure which are obtain-
able on the farm, provided it is well decomposed or composted. Muck,
leaves, ashes, old sods, etc., are all good when applied separately, or
when composted with barn-yard manure. All fresh manures, such as
that of the horse, sheep, hens, etc., should be avoided if possible, as
they have a tendency to produce a great amount of foliage, but little
fruit. They may, however, be used when old with good effect. Gu-
ano may be applied as a stimulant, but not relied upon as a general
manure.
In some parts of the country the soil is rich enough, and no manure
is needed ; but around New York, where the soil has been a long time
in cultivation, there are few fields that will not need at least a good
top-dressing of some kind of manure before planting. The ground
should be made as smooth and level as possible, and all coarse lumpa
should be made fine or entirely removed.
TIME TO PLANT. '.
Although the strawberry may be planted with safety at any time
from early spring until fall, yet there seems to be two seasons of the
year in which it may be done more successfully than any other,
namely, April and May in spring, September and October in the
autumn. Augufit is sometimes chosen, but it is usually a dry
month, and the heat being so great, the plants are move liable to
14r THE STBAWBERKY CULTUBIST.
die or be very much injured. Besides, the young plants are not- 00
well rooted as they are when allowed to remain until September. I
have always had better success by transplanting in September than
earlier in the season, unless it be in the spring.
Fig. 7.
There is but little choice between April and September, except it be
that plants carefully planted in autumn will give a fair crop the next
season, while those planted in spring will bear scarcely any fruit until
the following year. Some cultivators make a practice of planting in
September and taking a crop from the plants the following season,
and then plow the plants under and plant again. To have this plan
work successfully, it is only necessary to have the ground very rich, so
that the plants will become very strong by the time they come into
fruit.
THE STKAWBERKY CULTURIST. 15
PREPARATION OP PLANTS.
When transplanted in the spring, the half-dead leaves should bo
pulled off and the roots shortened one third or one half their length.
Fig. 8.
Figure 7 shows the position of the roots when taken from the ground
A, being the runner connecting it with the parent plant ; B, a new
runner, on which another plant will be formed ; C D, the cross line,
showing the point at which the roots should be cut. This short-
ening induces them to throw out a new set of fibrous roots from
the ends cut off, which they would not do otherwise. It also causes
other roots to push from near the crown of the plant, as seen in
Figure 8. The shortening of the roots is beneficial to plants that are
16 THE STRAWBERRY CULTURISl.
set out in the spiing, no matter whether they have been a long time
out of the ground, or have been taken up but recently, as the roots
have become ripened during the winter, and the ends are always
broken off in taking up, and it is necessary that they should be cut
off smooth and clean before planting again. Not so with plants in the
fall ; for the roots of the strawberry continue to grow from the ex-
treme end until cold weather sets in, and when carefully taken up
before this, the ends are not broken, and if soon planted again they
immediately grow.
CHOICE OF PLANTS.
Young runners that are well rooted are always the best, and old plants
should never be used if it can be avoided. When a variety is very
scarce and valuable, the old plants may be taken up and pulled to
pieces, roots and tops trimmed, and then planted.
PI. ANTING.
Choose cloudy weather for planting, if possible. Draw a line where
you are to put the row of plants, keeping it a few inches above the
ground, so that you may plant under the line ; this is much better
than to let the line lie on the ground, for then it will be in the way
of the transplanting trowel ; spread out the roots evenly and on every
side ; cover them as deeply as you can without covering the crown of
the plants ; press the soil down firmly around them with the hands.
If the weather should prove dry, give them a good soaking with
pure water (no mere sprinkling will do) as often as they require it,
which will be as often as the foliage droops. The rows should be two
and a half feet apart, and the plants one foot apart in the rows.
When pistillate varieties are used for the main crop, then every fifth
row must be planted with a hermaphrodite variety, for the purpose of
fertilizing the pistillates. Pistillate varieties will not bear alone, nor
will they bear a full crop or perfect berries unless an abundant supply
of perfect flowering varieties, is placed in close proximity. Let no
weeds grow among them, and stir the surface of the soil as often as
possible ; the oftener the better. We know that some cultivators as-
sert that there is much injury done to the roots by frequent hoeing ;
THE STRAWBERRY CULTURIST. 17
but we have never found the plants as much injured by hoeing or
forking among them as they were by neglecting to do either ,
Take off all runners as they appear, so that all the strength of the
plant shall be concentrated, and not distributed among several, as a
dozen small plants will not produce so much or so fine fruit as one
good strong one. When plants are wanted, make a separate planta-
tion for that purpose.
At the approach of winter, the entire surface of the soil, plants and
all, should be covered with straw, hay, or some similar material, to
the depth of one inch ; the object being not so much for the purpose
of keeping out the frost as to prevent the frequent freezing and thaw-
ing during the early part of winter and the approach of spring. So
soon as the plants start in the spring, the covering should be
pushed aside, so as to allow the plant to grow up through it. The
question is often asked, whether it is necessary to cover the hardy va-
rieties in this locality during whiter ? and if we should judge from the
difference in the appearance of the plants in the spring, we might
doubt the expediency of such a practice ; but I have found it highly
beneficial to cover all varieties, having tried several experiments the
results of which were that on an average we obtained about one quar-
ter more fruit when the plants were covered than when they were not.
The embryo fruit buds are formed in the fall, and are often injured
during the winter and spring, and of course if there are but a few fruit
stems put forth, there is but little call on the plant to support them,
and consequently the leaves have more food.
Usually the plants grow strong or weak in proportion to the quan
tity of fruit they bear. This would often lead cultivators to suppose,
from the luxuriant growth of the plants, that covering was of no bene-
fit, if not positively injurious.
Keep off all runners at all times, and pull up all weeds that come
up through the mulching. No stirring of the soil is needed if a good
depth of mulch is sustained. It will generally be necessary to add a
small quantity of mulch every fall, depending, of course, upon the na-
ture of the material used. Salt hay is a material that is much used
near New York, and it is cheap, lasting, and easily applied ; but straw,
hay, carpenters' shavings, leaves, tan-bark, etc., are all good. Straw-
18 THE 8TKAWBEEBY CTJLTURIST.
berry plantations that axe kept well mulched, and freed from weeds
and runners, will last for many years, depending, of course, somewhat,
upon the variety planted and the nature of the soil.
On very dry or sandy soil it is well to mulch the ground very soon
after the plants are set out, or so soon as they take root in the soil, as
there is but little danger of being troubled with weeds the first season,
and the mulch keeps the earth moist, a thing which it is very difficult
to accomplish in any other way.
GARDEX CULTURE.
The same direction given for field culture of the strawberry is appli-
cable to the small garden, with the exception of the arrangement of
the beds ; these should be four feet wide, planting three rows in each,
placing the plants eighteen inches apart each way ; this will leave six
inches margin between the outside row and the walk, which should
be two feet ; this gives three feet between the plants of parallel beds.
This is none too much space between beds for standing room to gather
the fruit ; and if different varieties are grown in beds side by side, a
less space than three feet would increase the danger of the plants run-
ning from one bed to the other. Although no runners should be
allowed to grow, all of us will sometimes become careless and neglect
to keep them off ; and mixing the plants should be guarded against,
if anything like good culture is attempted.
When pistillate varieties are grown, they should be plar ted in alter-
nate beds with other sorts, but never plant both kinds together hi the
same bed. Mulching the beds must be attended to the same as in
field culture ; and when it is convenient, it is well to remove the mulch
after the plants are done fruiting, and fork up or hoe deeply the
ground between the plants, and then mulch again.
All the different operations by which the fruit may be enlarged or
the quantity increased, such as watering with pure water, or with
liquid manure, guano, sal soda, etc., will suggest themselves to the
observing cultivator.
When a strawberry bed begins to fail, it is best to plant new beds on
new soils ; and when the )ld beds are destroyed, the ground on which
they were should be planted with some other crop, and not again
planted with strawberries for two or three years.
THE STKAWBEKKY CULTUKIST. 19
TO PRODUCE LARGE FRUIT.
To grow a few large berries, it is only necessary to select, so soon as
you can after the fruit sets, three or four of the most promising beriies,
and pick off all the rest, and then not let the plant want for moisture
or food until it is ripe. To grow large fruit of the Alpine strawberry,
it is best to raise new plants from seed every season, letting them fruit
but one season, and then replace them with new plants. This class of
strawberry reproduces itself from seed without any considerable
variation.
TO PRODUCE JVEW VARIETIES.
In attempting to produce a new variety of strawberries from seed,
it should first be decided what are the qualities desired, and then, by
selecting two varieties that possess these qualities as near as may be,
and by fertilizing one with the other, we can come nearer to the object
in view than we should by sowing seed collected indiscriminately from
varieties not properly fertilized.
For instance, let us take the Wilson, which is very prolific, quite
large, and firm, but is rather acid, and too dark a color, with a calyx
that does not part readily from the berry, and the Peabody, which is
not prolific, though large, and is of superior color, and sweet, and has
a calyx that paiis readily.
Now let us place these two varieties at some distance from others,
but in close proximity to each other, so that they can be the more
readily operated upon. When they come into bloom, remove the
stamens from as many flowers as desired, and then with a fine camel's-
hair pencil take the pollen from the other variety, and dust it over
the pistils of the flower from which the stamens have been removed.
It is well to place a fine netting over the plant operated upon, to pre-
vent insects from fertilizing it with pollen from inferior varieties.
The flowers should have the pollen applied several times, a few
hours between each application, so that the fertilization shall be com-
plete. It is well to use both varieties as parents, and fertilize the
Wilson with the Peabody, and vice versa, as it can not be determined
which will produce the best until proved by actual experiment. I do
not mention the Wilson and Peabody believing them to be the best to
20 THE STKAWBEEKY CULTUEI8T.
raist, leedlings from, but only to illustrate the principle. From my
own uxperiments with them I have been somewhat disappointed, for
nine tenths of the seedlings from the Wilson fertilized by the Peabody
were more acid than the parent, although I succeeded in getting the
color and some of the other characteristics of the Peabody. But using
the Peabody as the parent, I have had better success, getting a better
colored berry, sweeter, and some plants that were quite prolific, witq
almost invariably the long neck, which is a peculiar characteristic of
the Peabody.
Any two varieties of the same species, or two distinct species (unless
too far removed, like the Alpine, which, I believe, will not hybridize
with any of the others), may be brought together, and valuable vari-
eties grown from the mixture.
But it must be remembered that the varieties now in cultivation
have been so mixed and cross-fertilized, that it is almost impossible to
get a true cross between any two of them.
The effect of fertilization of previous generations will sometimes
show itself when and where least expected. Sometimes the best results
will be obtained by merely sowing seeds of any good variety, trusting
to its inherent good qualities being transmitted to the offspring.
From the Austin I have got seedlings, all of which resembled the
parent, but were inferior ; and I have noticed that all of this class,
such as the Downer, Iowa, Charlton, Georgia Mammoth, etc., are very
likely to produce varieties no better than the wild Western berry
from which they evidently all originated. It is very easy to get a
large variety from this class, but seldom a good one. From the Bic-
ton Pine I have grown large, sweet, orange-colored fruit, but, like the
parent, unproductive.
From the Oscar, which is a poor grower, I have produced fine
growers, and those that were moderately prolific ; but the fruit was
sweet and dry.
The results of some of my experiments are exceedingly curious,
such as producing five distinct varieties from the Bartlett, all of which
had entire leaves, not lobed. They were very similar to those de-
scribed by Duchesne as raised by him at Versailles in 1761, and called
the Monophylla, it being just 100 years (so far as I have been able to
THE SfRAWBERBY CULTTTKIST. 21
learn) since the first one-leaved strawberry was grown until the second
was fruited by me in 1861. But neither were of any value, except as
a botanical curiosity.
From the Iowa I produced a five leaved variety, and one with leaves
having a beautiful silver stripe, but of no value to the cultivator.
HOW TO RAISE SEEDLINGS.
To obtain strawberry seed for planting, the berries may be dried
perfectly, after which the pulp, by a little rubbing, will be reduced to
a fine powder, throughout which the seeds will be distributed ; or the
seeds may be washed free from the flesh very readily by mashing the
berry in water, when the seeds will fall to the bottom, and the re-
mainder can be poured off. But the plan we prefer is as follows :
When the berries from which you wish to grow seedlings are ripe,
they should be mashed and mixed with dry sand, so thoroughly that
no two seeds shall remain together, using sufficient sand to absorb all
the moisture. Then sow the sand containing the seeds in a bed pre-
viously prepared in some half shady place, or under glass ; sift on
some fine mold, covering the seeds about an eighth of an inch deep.
If the soil is kept moist, the plants will begin to appear in about four
weeks, and will continue to come up until cold weather, at which time
they should be covered lightly with straw, say one inch deep. The
following spring the plants should be set in rows, at least two feet
apart, and 18 inches apart in the row.
Stop all runners every week throughout the season, and keep the
beds clean. The second year after transplanting, you will have fruit.
Mark sexes of each as they conne into blossom. As the fruit ripens,
mark the time and character, select the very best, and destroy all
other plants. Lift carefully those that are to be preserved, and put
them into new beds where they will have more room to make runners.
The correct estimate of the value of any new variety can not be ascer-
tained until it has fruited two or three years. For my own part, 1
shall never again save a pistillate, although I have done so heretofore
extensively, for the purpose of ascertaining by actual experiment
whether they were any more likely to be better or more productive
than the bisexual or perfect varieties.
22 THE STEAWBERKY OHLTTJEIST.
The results of some of the largest experiments which I have tried
are, that out of several hundred seedlings of 1856 none were good,
although sown from the best seed that I could obtain. In 1859 I raised
another large qi -antity. Being more careful in selecting the varieties
and in their fertilization, the result was a thousand different varieties.
There were sixty pistillates, one staminate which produced no fruit,
and the remainder bisexual or hermaphrodite.
Out of this number I have three varieties that have fruited three
years, which are worthy of being cultivated. From two hundred seed-
lings of 1860, fruited two years, I shall keep two for further trial.
To those who may think this a tedious undertaking, I would say
that no one should endeavor to produce new and improved varieties
of fruits and flowers if it is to be looked upon as labor. It should be
only a pleasant pastime.
POT CULTURE.
"WTien strawberries are to be cultivated in pots, the soil should be
made much richer and more friable than when cultivated in the open
ground. A good compost for the purpose is made by taking sods from
an old pasture, putting them in a heap, and turning them occasionally
until they are thoroughly rotted ; then take three parts of this and one
part of good stable manure (or cow manure, which is better) which
is at least one year old, and well rotted ; add a small quantity of coarse
sand ; mix these well together and sift through a coarse sieve before
using. Other materials of like nature, such as peat, leaf mold,
etc., may be used instead of sods. Prepare compost the season before
it is wanted for use, and so soon as the plants begin to throw out run-
ners, fill small pots, say two or three inches in diameter, with the com-
post, and set them in the ground near the plants from which you wish to
take those for pot culture, with the top of the pot just level with the
surface. So soon as the young runner shows signs of producing roots,
place it on the soil in the pot and lay a small stone on it to keep it in
its place. When the plant has become well rooted ia the pot, it should
be lifted, the runner cut off both sides close to the plant, then set the
pots away in an open and airy place for a week or two, being careful
to give them plenty of water. They should always be placed on boards
THE STRAWBERRY CTJLTURIST. 23
instead of the ground, for in the latter case, worms will be very likely
to enter the pots through the hole in their bottom. When the pots
have become filled with roots, and before they become matted, shift
into four or four-and-a-half inch pots, in which they should remain
a few months and then be changed to six-inch pots, in which they are
to fruit. Some prefer to give them two shifts ; others put them into
the large pots at once from those in which they are struck. Either
plan will work well if the operation is carefully done. Care should
be observed in re-potting to not break the ball of earth around the
plants, and to have the soil put around the plant of the same consist-
ency as that of the ball itself. The crown of the plant should be about
level with the top of the pot.
Good drainage is very important, and to secure it, lay first over the
hole of the pot a piece of a broken pot, or shell, with the concave side
down, then place a few small pieces around and on the top of this,
over which put a piece of old sod or moss, and a small handful of ashes
or soot over all, to prevent worms from entering from below. The
larger the pots the more drainage must be used. No drainage is
needed for the little pots that are placed in the open ground in which
the runners are first struck.
When the plants have received their final shift into the large pots,
they should be placed upon a low staging, or upon slats, in the open air,
so that the hole in the pot shall not be closed. Attend to watering, and
by the first of November they are ready for early forcing or putting away
for fruiting later in the season. Where a succession of crops is desired,
only a portion at a time should be placed in the forcing-house 4 the
others being kept in a cool place, from which they may be taken as de-
sired. It requires from ten
to fourteen weeks from the
time the plants are placed
in heat until the fruit will
be ripe.
The best place to store the
plants potted for forcing
during the winter is the Vis ' 9 '
wailed pit (Figure 9), which should be made partly in the ground ana
24 THE STRAWBERRY CULTTJRI8T.
partly above it. The walls are formed of brick or stone, or board*
filled In with sawdust or tan-bark, finished with a coping and covered
with movable glass sashes. In such a pit they will not freeze during
the coldest weather, if the sash is covered with straw mats or board
shutters that fit closely.
Watering the plants is one of the most important operations in forc-
ing any kind of fruit, yet I can give no precise direction as to time or
quantity, as it depends so much upon circumstances which are variable.
But one person should always attend to this operation, for by so do-
ing they will soon learn the quantity the plants will require.
The plants should be syringed over head every day with pure water,
and the temperature should be 65 to 75 degrees by day, and 50 to GO
by night. When the plants come into bloom, the syringing should be
dispensed with and plenty of air admitted, enough to get up a circula-
tion if possible.
It is seldom necessary to give the plants any stimulant if the soil in
the pots be properly prepared ; but if it is ever desirable to push
them a little more rapidly, they may be sparingly watered with
guano water, say four pounds to the barrel, or other liquid manure,
each as two or three shovelfuls of cow manure to a barrel of water.
A solution of nitrate of soda, say an ounce to eight gallons of water,
sprinkled regularly over the surface of the soil, is not so offensive, and
nearly as good as manure water. When the fruit is set, a higher de-
gree of temperature may be maintained, say ten degrees by day and fiv<
by night. If the plants are placed on a stage in the forcing-house,
more care will be needed in watering than when plunged in soil ; and
where staging is used, it is best to place
the pots within another pot, as shown in
Figure 10, the outside pot, c, being about
one inch more in diameter than the inside
one, the space, a, between being filled with
moss, which should be kept constantly
moist. The roots of the plant will soon
fill the pot and grow more or less on the
Fig. 10. outside of the ball of earth against the
pot ; and as the pots are placed so that the sunlight or a free circula-
THE STRAWBERRY CULTURIST. 25
tion of air passes around them, they soon become dry, which of course
soon injures the roots immediately in contact with it, although at the
same time the mass of soil inside may contain all the moisture needed.
To guard against injury to the roots, it is best to plunge the pots in
earth, or grow them in double pots. This insures a more regular sup-
ply of moisture.
Those who have no glass-house in which to force the plants, may
hasten the ripening by placing the plants in a common hot-bed (see
cut) early in the spring, giving them air on pleasant days and closing
the frames at night.
The common hot-bed is made by excavating the ground to the
depth of ten or twelve inches and laying a strata of horse manure
and leaves alternately therein, making the whole about two
feet deep. The frame (Figure 11) is a bottomless box of wood
with sloping top covered with a glass sash. The size and form
Fig. H.
are not material, but from four to six feet wide and from six to
ten feet long is a good size. The bed should be six inches larger each
way than the frame which is to cover it, and slope slightly toward the
south. When completed, put on the frame, close the sash and keep it
on till fermentation commences, which will be when the steam ap-
pears on the glass. Then give the bed air a little while during the
warmest part of the day. In three or four days cover the surface from
four to six inches deep with fine, rich garden mold. In this mold
plunge the pots containing the plants to within one inch of the top,
etting the pots at a distance of about one foot from center to center.
The same kind of frame, without the aid of bottom heat, will ad-
vance the ripening of the fruit at least a month. Those persons who
have but little ground may, by having a few frames, secure a succes-
sion of this delicious fruit. One gentleman in this city, who has no
26 THE STEAWBEKEY CULTTJEIST.
room for a strawberry bed in fact, he has no garden, nothing but a small
yard, which is paved, and upon which the sun shines only a part of the
day yet grows many quarts of fine strawberries every year. His
mode is to get plants that have been potted in the fall and all ready
for fruiting ; these he places upon the sunny side of the pavement in
the morning, and moves them in the afternoon upon the other side,
having them placed upon a platform that is easily and readily moved.
The watering and moving are attended to by the children', and by their
constant watchfulness and care they learn to love and admire the
plants ; and when the fruit ripens, each specimen is looked upon as the
fruit of their labor and more highly prized than if bought from the
market. Each plant usually gave one quart of fine fruit. I mention
this merely to show under what difficult circumstances this beautiful
fruit may be grown. It should not be forgotten that, if we expect
good results, the plants that are to be fruited hi pots must be potted
the fall previous, and placed in a frame covered with glass during
the winter, where they will not be frozen, but it should not be warm
enough to excite the plants into growth.
Plants that have fruited once in pots are of but little use, and it is
better to plant them out, and take a few runners from them, or get a
fresh supply from young, healthy plants.
PROPAGATION.
Having given on a preceding page a description of the best method
of propagation by seed, I omit any further remarks on that point, and
mention the other modes only.
BY HUNKERS. These are young shoots that issue from the collar or
crown of the plant ; they are produced by most species of the straw-
berry in great abundance, furnishing a ready and convenient mode of
propagation. All that is necessary in propagating by runners is to
permit the young plant to become well rooted before removing from
the parent. But as several plants are generally formed on each run-
ner, it is requisite that the second plant from the parent plant should
be well rooted before the first is removed. The first plant on the
runner obtains its nutriment from the parent until it produces roots
sufficiently to support itself, after which it draws but little, if any,
THE STRAWBERRY CTJLTURIST. 9T
from it The second plant on the runner draws from the first until
its roots become established in the soil ; and so each one draws upon
the one preceding it, provided the soil is such that roots can pene-
trate it and find food to support the plant ; if not, then each plant
on the runner will derive its food from the parent plant until such
time as it becomes rooted.
Knowing this, we should adopt every measure that will insure the
rooting of the young plant so soon as possible, as a precaution against
its drawing too much upon the strength of the parent plant.
In preparing soil for propagating plants, it should be made much
deeper and richer than when prepared solely for growing plants for
fruit. The manure used may be quite new, and of a more stimulating
nature. The surface of the soil should always be kept in such a con-
dition that the young rootlets can easily penetrate it.
The method that I have found the most successful is to make the
soil quite rich before planting, and put the plants at least two feet
apart one way, and eighteen inches the other. Cut off all fruit-stalks
as soon as they appear ; keep all weeds down, and stir the surface of
the soil as often as possible. When the runners start, cover the whole
surface of the soil one half to one inch deep with fine, well-decom-
posed stable manure ; this not only furnishes food to the plants, but
it keeps the surface of the soil moist, allowing the young roots te
penetrate readily, and it attracts the roots ; in other words, it stimu-
lates the vital principle to throw out roots. "We know that they are
attracted toward congenial food, and repelled by that which is uncon
genial, and by placing a slight coating of manure on the surface, it
comes immediately in contact with the runner and induces it to
throw out roots much sooner than it would if placed at some distance
from it.
The principle on which manure acts on the plant before it comes in
contact with it, may or may not be fully understood ; yet the fact that
it often does is sufficient for our purpose at present. By placing one
runner without roots upon a piece of manure, and another upon a
sponge, keeping both moist, we can soon ascertain that the manure is
the more congenial of the two. A full supply of water should be
given the plants if convenient, as it will assist them very much, I
28 THE STKAWBEBKY CULTTJR1ST.
have found that a pound of sal soda or common potash to a barrel of
water, and the plants watered with the solution, will stimulate them
to produce an immense amount of runners. The potash acts upon the
vegetable fiber in the soil as well as upon the manure upon the sur-
face, decomposing it very rapidly, making it soluble, and conse-
quently readily absorbed by the roots. Besides, I have found the
plants less troubled by insects and grubs where the potash was used
than where it was not.
The quantity of plants that can be produced from a single plant in
one season depends very much upon the character of the variety;
some kinds produce many more than others when subjected to the
same treatment, and it is not always the most vigorous growers that
produce the most runners.
I planted, in the spring of 1860, four thousand Triomphes de Gand,
which produced one hundred thousand the first season, or an average
of twenty-five to the plant, without any special care or artificial appli-
cation of moisture. The soil was trenched two feet deep, and a
liberal supply of manure given it before planting. "With the Downer's
Prolific, I have grown at an average rate of one hundred to the plant.
An increase of fifty to one is a good yield, but one hundred to one
is not uncommon.
The young plants are usually taken up in September, at which time
there are many plants on the runners that are not well rooted. These
may be planted close together in a bed previously prepared and raado
very rich ; give them a good soaking of water so as to settle the soil
around them ; then cover with hay or straw, just enough to shade the
plants, and give an occasional watering if the weather should prove
dry. In this position the plants will soon throw out new roots, and
in a week or ten days the covering may be removed. Small, partially
rooted plants, if treated in this manner, will become good, strong
plants by the time cold weather sets in, at which time they should I*
again covered, and transplanted in the following spring.
The small, unrooted runners may also be potted in small pots, and
placed in a greenhouse, or in frames that have been used for hot-beds ;
if there is a little heat remaining in it, so much the better. When
treated ttius, they will make better plants than when planted in tlw
THE STRAWBERRY CULTDSI8T. 29
open ground, but ii is more expensive, and will not pay for the trouble
unless the variety is scarce and valuable.
When placed under glass, they will require protection from the
direct rays of the sun until they are rooted, at which time they must
have plenty of air and water until they ate sufficiently strong to allow
the sash to be removed. They may then be potted into larger pots,
and used for forcing, or planted out into the open ground.
The Bush Alpine strawberry is sometimes propagated by taking up
the old stools in the spring or early autumn, dividing them into
single crowns and then replanting them. But a much better way is
to sow the seeds (see page 21), whenever it is necessary to renew the
beds or to produce more plants, as the fruit from the seedling is
always larger and better than it is from old and partially exhausted
plants.
VARIETIES FOR FORCING.
Very few experiments have been made with our native varieties to
ascertain their relative merits in reference to pot culture. The fruit
is seldom so high flavored when grown under glass as when in the
open ground ; therefore it is best to choose the highest flavored varie-
ties for the purpose, provided they will succeed, as it is not every
variety that grows well and is productive in the open ground that is
equally so under glass. Among those that are known to be good for
forcing are the Hooker, Bartlett, Vicomptesse, and Trollop's Victoria.
The latter variety makes a fine show, but it wants flavor. The Bart-
lett has been known to fruit eight months without cessation. All
that is required is to keep off all runners and give plenty of water,
with an occasional dose of liquid manure. Doubtless there are many
others that are equal, if not superior, to these, but I have no facts to
determine their relative merits for the purpose.
INSECTS.
The insects to which the strawberry is most subjected, when culti-
vated in pots, are the red spider and green fly, or aphis. The red
spider is more troublesome in a dry atmosphere, while the aphis likes
cold and moisture ; but if the plants are kept vigorous and healthy,
few insects will attack them. Tobacco-smoke or syringings with to-
80 THE STRAWBERRY CITLTURIST.
bacco liquor will eradicate the aphis, and flour of sulphur scattered
freely among the plants will kill the red spider.
In open-ground culture, slugs, snails, and wire- worms are sometimes
troublesome ; but they may be readily destroyed by dusting the plants
and entire surface of the soil with fresh slacked lime. When the
ground is kept mulched, the wire-worms find a safe retreat under it,
and free use of lime is often necessary to destroy them.
Ants are sometimes troublesome when the fruit is ripening, and
their nests should be found and treated with a dose of hot water or
guano. The grub, or cut- worm, as it is called, is very destructive in
some sections of the country. They eat off the roots close to the
crown, and the plant soon turns yellow and dies. The only sure way
that I have ever found of eradicating them is to dig up the plant so
soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, and kill the grub, which you
will invariably find under the plant if you dig in time. It is also
well to examine the soil carefully when preparing the beds, and de-
stroy all that are found. Mice will sometimes attack the plants that
are in the frames, but pussy or the trap will soon take care of these.
RETARDING RIPENING.
To retard the ripening of the strawberry is often as desirable as t
force or produce fruit early, or out of its natural season. When grown
in pots it is a very simple process, all that is required to produce a lat.
crop being to place the plants hi a cool northern exposure early in tht
season, or before they commence growth, and keep them there so long
as the health of the plant does not suffer for want of light and air.
The north side of a wall, or in frames, with the sash having an incli-
nation to the north, will answer the purpose for retarding the fruit.
For late crops, it is always best to choose the very latest varieties-
Austin, Triomphe de Gand, and Trollop's Victoria are excellent
varieties for this purpose. Too sudden transition from cold to heat
should be guarded against, for the embryo fruit buds are formed
within the plants months previous to this development, and they re-
quire time and a steady increase of temperature, for naturally the
strawberry requires about three months to develop and bring its fruit
to maturity ; and though we may hasten the time somewhat, we can
THE STRAWBERRY CTJLTTJRI8T. 31
not push nature past certain limits without causing a part to be de-
ficient.
To produce fruit, there must form a calyx, corolla, stamens, and
pistils, and these do not always grow uniformly ; that is, we may force
so rapidly that the calyx and corolla will form, but there will be iy
stamens or pistils, and consequently no fruit.
A sudden change from heat to cold, or vice versa, will cause the plants
to " go blind" or become barren. Knowing this, we guard against it
by bringing the plants from a cool situation into one that is slightly
warm, and then to one that is still warmer, and so by two or three
changes get them into a situation where they may have the full
amount of heat required.
When the fruit is to be ripened under glass, the plants may be
brought from the retarding frames and at once placed in a position
where they are to ripen their fruit ; but they must be kept partially
shaded at first, and the house or frames quite cool (no bottom heat
being required), the temperature being increased gradually until they
show fruit ; then they may be hastened through the ripening process
if desired.
Plants that have been forced early in the season may be turned out
into the open ground, and if the runners are removed so soon as they
appear, and the plants constantly supplied with water, they will
usually produce a fair crop, and often a very large crop of fruit in
autumn.
The plants that have fruited in pots are of little value except for the
purpose of producing a late crop, after which they may be thrown
aside and their place supplied with fresh plants.
The ripening of the fruit may be considerably retarded when the
plants are grown in the open ground, if planted on the north side of a
bank, or upon a northern hillside, always taking the precaution to
select the very latest variety for this purpose.
Banks three or four feet high and six feet wide, running from east
to west, the sides being terraced and held in place by boards, brick,
or stone, are excellent places to not only hasten the crop, but also to
retard it. The early varieties are planted on the south, and the late on
the north side Place the plants one foot apart, and only one row on each
32 THE STRAWBERRY CULTURIST.
terrace, which, if the bank is four feet high and twelve feet broad at
the base, will give six steps or terraces of one foot wide and eight
inches high on each side, or twelve rows in all. Plants grown upon
banks require more attention than those grown upon level ground, for
they must be watered regularly, and the ground kept constantly covered
with some kind of mulch.
If a row of small evergreen shrubs is planted on the top of the
bank, so as to partially shade the plants on the north side, it will assist
in retarding ripening. Another method of producing a late crop is to
cut off all the flowers when they first appear, and then by giving
plenty of water make the plants give a second crop. These plans of
retarding or producing a second crop are practicable only in a small
way, and only valuable to the amateur.
The Monthly Alpine strawberry furnishes a regular and constant crop
of fruit from June to winter, with ordinary culture, but the quantity
produced is not large, nor of the best quality ; yet it is well worthy
of a place even in the smallest garden.
PROPERTIES OP THE STRAWBERRY.
The properties of a good strawberry are as follows :
1st. The flavor should be rich and aromatic, consequently it must
contain a large amount of the peculiar acids belonging to it as well a
a large amount of sugar ; the latter should slightly predominate.
2d. The flesh should be firm, but melting and solid throughout.
3d. The form should be regular, whether round, conical, or other-
wise. I prefer the conical.
4th. Color : 1st, scarlet ; 2d, crimson scarle* ; 3d, crimson ; 4th,
dark crimson ; 5th, white.
5th. The calyx should part readily from the berry without breaking
the flesh.
6th. The plant should be productive.
7th. The fruit-stalks should be long and stout.
8th. Leaves large, abundant, thick, and of good substance.
9th. The plants should be vigorous and hardy, being not only ca-
pable of withstanding the cold of winter, but the heat of summer,
and producing a only moderate number of good strong runners.
THE STRAWBERRY CTJLTURIST. 33
A strawberry to become a general favorite in this country, must
possess not only richness and other good qualities, but that peculiar
fragrance found in perfection only in the wild strawberry of North
America ; and many of our new varieties have scarcely a particle
of this delightful perfume, and would hardly be recognized by theii
fragrance alone as belonging to the strawberry family.
A strawberry of moderate size, say one to one and a half inches in
diameter, is certainly as good if not better than one that is much
larger ; but everybody wants strawberries larger than his neighbor,
if for no other purpose than to make people stare and excite the ad-
miration of the uninitiated. So long as people will admire and pay
an extra price for extra size fruit without regard to quality, just so
long will the cultivator endeavor to produce the largest possible.
The time was when strawberries were really too small for conveni-
ence, but that time is past, and now the other qualities should have
due care and attention. In this respect they have been sadly
neglected by cultivators, and many of our great strawberries are
existing witnesses of the fact.
Such faults as the fruit being hollow, soft, dull color, insipid, acid,
calyx adhering so firmly to the berry that the latter is torn in pieces
or crushed in separating, and many other faults, are too common with
the larger varieties in cultivation.
GROWTH OP VARIETIES.
Although all the varieties of the strawberry have a family resem-
blance, yet the difference in the foliage and manner of growth is very
marked ; some having very dark, glossy, green foliage, with reddish
foot-stalks ; others are pale green, and quite rough. The leaf-stalks
(petiole) of some species are mostly smooth ; for instance, those of the
grandiflora, while others are pubescent, or almost hairy, like the Iowa,
and the seedlings therefrom. The lobes of the leaves vary from linear
to ovate, broad ovate, and sometimes nearly rhomboid.
The edges of the leaves are all serrated, but some deeply and
coarsely, the serratures being sharp, others blunt or broad at the
point, while others are very small. All these variations assist the cul-
tivator in determining kinds. Those that have> small, thin foliage
20
THE STRAWBERRY CULTTJRIST.
usually possess but little vigor, seldom, producing much fruit or very
large. On the other hand, a variety may run too much to foliage, and
consequently be unproductive, but the strong growers should be relied
upon, as it is only through such that we can expect any great increase
in size or productiveness.
The difference in growth of the roots of strawberries is also worthj
of notice. Some are long, thread-like, as those of the Crimson Cone,
penetrating deeply into the soil, while others have short, fleshy roots.
Kivers' Eliza is very peculiar in this respect, for in some soils it is al-
most tuberous.
The foliage will not indicate the form of the roots, as those of some
of the tall growers are very short. These variations in the form of
roots, when observed, will often assist us in determining what kind 01
particular soil will best suit a particular variety. The short-rooted
varieties must have a more moist and deeper prepared soil to encour-
age their elongation, while the long wire-rooted kinds go deeply and
widely in search of food, even in unfavorable soils. The latter suc-
ceed much better in dry sandy soils than the former.
There is another peculiarity in the growth of different varieties
which has been too little studied, namely, those that produce stools
or crowns adhering together, and those that do not.
Figure 12 is an exact representation, half size, of a plant of the Bart-
lett that has borne two crops and is three years old. While it shows a
number of crowns, there are not more than two that are united on one
stem. This variety divides of itself, and will not form a large stool and
remain united. If the runners are kept removed, you can compel the
plant to form large clusters of crowns, from which a larger number of
fruit-stalks will grow ; yet this cluster of crowns will generally issue
from individual plants the plant seeming to divide of its own accord, ,
more than two crowns seldom remaining united, except by the inter-
lacing of the roots.
Every season, as the fruit-stalks push up, new crowns are formed at
the sides of those that have produced fruit, and soon after forming they
emit new roots above the old ones, and are thus supplied with food
through the new roots, the old ones merely answering as an anchor
to hold the plant hi its place. These crowns not only soon divide
THE STRAWBERRY CULTURIST.
35
36 THE STKAWBEEEY CULTUBIST.
themselves and become individual plants, but they are constantly re-
newing themselves, while at the same time their crowns remain nearly
level with the surface. Hovey, Walker, Jenny Lind, in fact most of
our native scarlets are of this class, and they will bear from fair to
very large crops, even when the plants are allowed to grow thickly all
over the ground.
I would not advise the growing of the strawberry in this manner,
as I think it much better to cultivate them in rows, keeping off the
runners ; yet there are many persons who will not take this trouble,
and further, they claim that it is more profitable to grow them in
mass than in rows.
Those of an opposite character, represented in Figure 13, which was
drawn, half-size,- from a Triomphe de Gand of the same age as the Bart-
lett, shown in Figure 12, should always be grown singly, as they will
not produce half a crop if allowed to run thickly together. They are
seldom as hardy, as their crowns or fruit-buds are more elevated and
exposed to the cold. It will be observed, by examining the en-
graving, that all the crowns are united to the main stem, showing no
inclination to separate. A, C, and D represent side crowns, and B the
central one ; E represents the old fruit-stalk of the present season ;
F, F, new roots starting from the side crowns above the soil. This
variety is more spreading in its habit, and produces its new crowns
almost on the top of the old ones, instead of upon the side, as in the
former class.
They soon become so high above ground that the new roots can not
or do not reach the soil in sufficient numbers to furnish the plant with
nutriment. Many of our very best varieties are of this class. They
require special culture, with which they are very productive and val-
uable, and they must have more room than those varieties that pro-
duce but single crowns or many in a cluster, each depending upon its
own roots for support.
When grown in rows or hills, the soil may be hoed up to the
plants after they have borne two or three crops. By this means
the new roots are covered, and the plants will be very much strength-
ened, and produce fruit a year or two longer than they would other-
wise.
THE STKAWBEKEY CULTTJRI8T.
37
38 THB STRAWBERRY CULTURI8T.
A plantation, with care, may be kept for many years, but ordinarily
five years is as long as it will be profitable.
New runners may be allowed to grow from the plants the season
that it is desirable to renew the beds, and a row set between the rows
of the old plants, and then the old plants cut out ; but I prefer mak-
ing a new plantation, and upon ground that has had no strawberries
grown upon it for several years.
There are several insects and worms that are particularly fond of
the strawberry, and their larva is always present more or less in soils
where the strawberry has long been cultivated, and for this reason,
if for no other, they should be planted upon new ground.
PACKING THE FRUIT.
There are as many different opinions in regard to the best method
of packing fruit for market as there are contrivances for doing it. Of
late, new patent baskets, all claiming to have superior merits, have
been introduced in such numbers that cultivators are slow to adopt
any. That we need something different from the small splint basket
so long in use is evident, but what it shall be is difficult to determine.
In packing round baskets there is a loss of space, and those that are
made of upright splints, with sharp edges, are liable to cut the fruit
as it settles, and cause the juice to issue, besides destroying the fine
appearance of the fruit. Square baskets or boxes seem to recommend
themselves for various reasons, yet round ones will answer every pur-
pose if properly made. Those who are engaged in manufacturing' such
articles should endeavor to produce a box or basket of this form, that
can be furnished so cheap that it can always be sold with the fruit,
Several such are now in use, and with a little modifying they will an-
swer the purpose very well.
The size of the boxes should be regular either pints or quarts-
good measure when filled level with the brim ; no heaping will answer,
as that interferes with packing. There should be a law passed com
pelling cultivators to send their fruit to market in baskets or boxes
holding a certain quantity, for as it now is, there is no way of knowing
what strawberries bring, as they sell by the basket, some of which hold
a sixth of a quart, and from that up to a full quart. If the fruit sold
THE STRAWBERRY CULTURISI. 39
tor EO much a pint or quart, then the purchaser wo; Id know just what
quantity he was getting for his money, and the price would be regu-
lated by the quality as well as the quantity in market. If we could go
into market and learn that the Wilson strawberry brought so much per
quart, and Triomphe de Grand so much more, it would look as though
the cultivator of choice fruits was to be encouraged. The puWic would
Boon learn which was the best, and the cultivator would know which
was bringing the best price, and consequently which was the most
profitable for him to grow.
Now strawberries are quoted at so much per basket, which means
something, but just what no one is able to tell. Uniformity in size
of basket will never be brought about until there are strenuous laws
passed for that purpose, for the love of gain is too strong on the one
hand, and carelessness too common on the other.
When strawberries are to be sent to a distance, and it is requisite
that they should arrive at their destination in the best possible con-
dition, each berry should be enveloped in fine tissue-paper, and a good
layer of cotton placed between each layer of fruit. The baskets or
boxes should be shallow, and not more than a half a dozen layers
placed in any one of them.
Another plan, which is practiced in Europe, is to have a box made
of the required size, with thin boards as false bottoms to fit in, each
one resting upon slats nailed to the side of the box ; these boards are
bored full of small holes, the holes being far enough apart so that the
fruit will not touch ; the fruit is picked with the stems. These stems
are drawn first through a small piece of paper and then through the
holes, and fixed with a small peg or pin on the under side. When one
of the boards is filled, and placed in its position in the box, another
is taken, and so on until the box is full. This is one of the best
methods of packing strawberries for sending to exhibitions, but of
course Is impracticable for market purposes.
PACKING PLANTS.
Nurserymen have different methods of packing strawberry plants,
therefore I will only mention the manner in which I have packed
plants foi many years, and with excellent success.
4:0 THE STRAWBERRY CULTTJRIST.
When large quantities are to be packed, it is best to have some
hands taking up the plants while others are packing. Take up the
plants with a trowel or fork and throw them Into a box, and so soon
as a few hundred are up, carry them into the packing -house, count
them and tie twenty-five in a bundle, using bass bark for strings, as
this is cheap and convenient, and does not cut the plants if drawn
tight.
Twenty-five is a convenient number to hold in the hand while
counting, and is quickly tied ; besides, the smaller the bundle the
less liable are the" plants to heat if they have to remain long together,
and four bundles making a hundred, they are readily counted.
When the requisite number are ready, pack them in boxes that
are from six to eight inches deep, placing a layer of damp moss in the
bottom and against the side. When you commence putting in a
layer of bundles, set them upright, and then put in another thin
layer of moss, and so on until the box is full. Then nail slats of two
or three inches wide across the top, leaving a space of about an inch
between to give air and light to the plants, and so that the express-
man or other carrier may see what he has in his care, and that it is
perishable.
Common boot and shoe boxes, divided lengthwise, are convenient
and light besides, they can usually be bought very cheap.
When many thousand plants are to be sent in one order, larger
boxes may be used, and several layers of plants put in ; but if they
are to be sent to any great distance, a single layer is all that is^afe
to place in one box. The purchaser had better pay for more boxes
and more freight, and have his plants delivered in good order.
One great error with most packers of plants is, that they do not
make any calculation as to how long the plants are likely to be on
their journey, and pack all alike, whether they are to be one day or
one month reaching their destination. This should not be, for the
plants that are to be many days in the boxes should have more care
than .those that are to remain there but a short tune. The moss
used in packing should contain more water, that the plants may be
supplied with moisture sufficient to prevent wilting, but not enough
to cause them to rot. There is, however, but little danger of plants
THE STEAWBEEEY CTJLTTJEIST. 41
rotting if they are packed as I have described, namely., only one layer
hi a box, and the foliage exposed to light and air.
SENDING PLANTS BY MAIL.
Thanks to the liberal postal laws of our country, we can now send
strawberry plants in small quantities cheaply and safely to any part
by mail. The postage being only one cent per ounce on plants, cut-
tings, and seeds, in packages of eight ounces or less, every one
should avail themselves of this privilege, and widely distribute one
of the best of all fruits, the strawberry. A package of one dozen
plants, packed in the following manner, will go safely to any part of
the country where it does not require more than two weeks for them
to reach their destination, costing from three to six cents for postage.
Take up the plants, remove all the soil, and cut off the largest
leaves ; then take a piece of oiled silk or muslin, about eight inches
square, place a thin layer of very fine damp moss upon it, and on the
moss lay first three or four plants, then a little more moss, then a few
more plants, and so on, until your dozen or two is all in ; then roll up
the plants hi the silk, being careful that moss entirely surrounds them ;
fold over and tightly around the roots, but leave the top end open.
Then tie the package with strong, fine twine, after which envelop th.6
whole with good strong paper, on which write plainly the directions.
The top end must be left open for the inspection of the postmaster.
Postage must be paid in advance by affixing stamps.
PROFITS OF STRAWBERRY CULTURE.
An acre of the best varieties of strawberries properly cultivated on
ordinary sandy loam will, in four years, produce something like the
following results :
Three crops, of 300 bushels each, 900 bushels, at 12 cents per quart $8,456 00
Cost of plants $T5 00
Manure 200 00
Labor in cultivating 200 00
Mulching 50 00
Picking, 2 ct3. per quart 576 00
Bent on land, $10 per acre 40 00 1, 141 00
Leaving of profit $2,81500
If ft small portion of the plants be allowed to throw out runners.
COOKING AND PRESERVING STRAWBERRIES.
the side of them will add considerably to the income. We might,
with propriety, deduct the cost of plants from the expenses, for, at
the end of four years, more new plants will make, after the crop is
taken off, if allowed to run, than will stock ten acres. The expenses
are calculated for the neighborhood of New York.
COOKING AND PRESERVING STRAWBERRIES.
Strawberry Short-Cake.
INTO three pints of flour rub, dry, two teaspoons heaping full of
cream, tartar ; add half a tea-cup of butter, a little salt, one teaspoon-
ful of soda dissolved in a pint of milk and water. Mix quickly and
thoroughly, roll to an inch in thickness, and bake twenty minutes in
a quick oven.
Take a quart of strawberries, and add cream and sugar to make a
sauce. For this purpose small-sized, rather acid berries with sprightly
flavor are preferable.
When the short-cake is done, divide it in three layers, butter them,
and spread the strawberries between. Eat while warm.
Strawberry Dumplings.
Make crust same as directed for short-cake ; roll half an inch thick ;
put about a gill of strawberries for each dumpling. Bake, steam, or
boil half an hour.
Strawberry Pies.
Lone your pie-dish with crust made in the usual manner ; fill the
tlish with good ripe strawberries of medium size ; sprinkle on a little
flour, and sugar in proportion to the acidity of the berries. Cover
with a thin crust.
Strawberry Jam.
For every pound of strawberries take three quarters of a pound of
gugar. The berries should be mashed in a preserving kettle, and the
COOKING AND PRESERVING STRAWBERRIES. 43
sugar thoroughly mixed with them. Boil from twenty minutes to
half an hour, stirring constantly.
Strawberry Jelly.
Take strawberries when fully ripe, strain, and to each pint of juice
add a pound of the best refined sugar. Boil briskly, skimming when
necessary, for ten or fifteen minutes, or until it will jelly, which may
be known by dropping a little in cold water. If done, it will fall to
the bottom in a mass.
Strawberry Cream.
Mash the fruit gently ; drain it on a sieve ; strew a little sugar on
it; when well drained (without being pressed), add sugar and cream
to the juice, and, if too thick, a little milk. Whisk it in a bowl, and
as the froth rises, lay it on a sieve ; when no more will rise, put the
cream in a dish and lay the froth upon it.
To Preserve Strawberries -without Sugar.
Put the fruit in the preserving kettle, and, if very dry, add a little
*vater to prevent burning. Boil about three minutes, or just long
enough to be sure the whole mass is thoroughly heated not cooked.
Dip into cans, filling them completely ; seal quickly, and set in a cool
place. (Glass jars containing fruit should be kept in a dark place or
covered with dark-colored paper.) Open, and add sugar several hours
before using.
Strawberry "Wine.
To one gallon of juice, strained, add two and a half pounds of sugar
(no water) ; let it stand in an open vessel twenty-four hours, occasion-
ally skimming off the scum that rises. Then fill the cask in which it
is put, full, reserving enough to fill up as, in process of fermentation,
it runs over. When the fermentation is completed, stop tightly
Let it stand three months, draw off, and bottle.
Strawberries and Claret.
Over three quarts of strawberries pour one bottle of good claret
wine. Add sugar to suit the taste.
CATALOGUE OF STRAWBERRIES.
THK following list comprises the names of the Strawberries in all authentic worki
to which I have had access. Although it may not enumerate all the varieties, it i
probably more complete than any list hitherto published. Many of the sorts here
named hare passed out of cultivation, and others are so little disseminated that
they are scarcely known out of the locality where they originated.
The syonyms are printed in italics.
American Scarlet,
Bath Scarlet, Brooks' Prolific,
Black American, New
New Bath Scarlet, Liv Iowa.
American Scarlet,
erpool, Golden Drop, Brooklyn Scarlet.
Thompson's Roseber-
Devonshire, North's Bonte St. Julien.
ry, New Roseberry.
Seedling, Milne's Seed- Beauty of England.
Autumn Scarlet.
ling, Imperial Scar- Barnes' White.
Adonis.
let, Austin's Carolina Barrat's Empereur.
Athlete.
Pine, Chili, etc. Bayne's Early Scarlet.
Austin.
Black Prince, Bayne's Incomparable.
Alice Maude.
Wilmot's Black Impe- Belle d'Orleans.
Amazon.
rial. Buist's Prize.
Ambrosia, Nicholnson.
Black Prince, Cuthill's. Belle de Yibert.
Auguste Eetemeyer.
Bostock. Belle Artesienne.
Albion White.
Rostock Seedling, Ros- Bicolor, De Jonghe.
American Queen,
took Pine, Rostock Bell's Excellent.
Voorhis.
Scarlet, Wellington, Bicton Pine,
Ariadne.
Cone, Byram, Caledo- Merveille de Flander*.
Ajax, Nicholnson's,
nia, Vernon's, Monta- Burr's New Pine.
Admiral Dundas.
gue"s, Prolific Bath, Burr's Columbus.
Atlestel.
New Bath, Whitley's Burr's Late Prolific.
Adair.
Pine, Beanie's . Seed- Burr's Ohio Mammoth.
Asa Gray,
ling, English Globe, Burr's Profusion.
Illinois.
Red Chili, Devonshire, Burr's Scioto.
Agriculturist.
Devonshire Chili, Red Burr's Seedling.
Annas de la Hulle.
Bath, New Scarlet. Britannia.
Annette.
British Queen, Myatt's. Bretonneau.
Australia.
Bullock's Blood. Carmine Scarlet,
Abington Blush.
Black Chili. Carmine Roseberry.
Belle de Machetaux.
Baltimore Scarlet. Charlotte.
Bishop's Seedling.
Berenice. Charlotte,
Bishop's Wick.
Bishop's Orange. Princess CJiarlotte, Wilt
Black Cone.
Boston Pine, mot's Early Scarlet.
Black Hudson's Bay,
Bat'tlett. Cinnamon Scarlet.
Slack Pine, Hosiers
Brighton Pine. Clustered Scarlet,
Seedling.
Boy den's Mammoth (see Clustered Wood Pine.
Black Eoseberry. %
Victoria). Crimson Favorite.
CATALOGUE OF STRAWBERRIES.
Coxcomb Scarlet. Diadem. Emily, MyatVs.
Copper-leaved Roseberrj Durfee's Seedling. Faulkner's King.
Goal, Late Scarlet, Delices d'Automne. Fragraria Lucida,
Sir George Mackenzie" 1 * Duke of Kent's Scarlet, California.
Late Scarlet.
Chinese,
Bed Chili, Norths Scar-
l3t, Bourbon of Amer-
icans, Chapelizod, Car-
olina, Large White,
Pineapple.
Charles' Favorite.
Chilian,
Pyramidal, Newland.
Chorlton's Prolific.
Climax Scarlet.
Coppock's No. 1.
Cornucopia.
Crimson Cone.
Cutter's Seedling,
Bunce.
Col. Ellsworth.
Crimson Queen.
Captain Cook.
Chester.
Compte de Flanders.
Comptesse de Marne.
Compte de Paris.
Cremont Perpetual.
Crimson Globe.
Crystal Palace.
Gushing.
Carolina Grandiflora,
Superb.
Chili White.
Chili Orange.
Chili Bed.
Conqueror, Prince's.
Cceur Saint Innocent.
Cook's Hybrid.
Comptesse de Beaumont
Cobb'a Prolific.
Crookshank.
Covode's Seedling.
Chancellor
De Bath.
Dlack's Seedling,
New Aberdeen*
Dudson House Scarlet,
Deptford White or Pine.
Due de Malakoff.
Globe Scarlet, Prolific Fillmore.
Scarlet, Early Prolific, Filbert Pine.
Nova Scotia Scarlet, Fillbasket.
Cluster do., Austrian Felton's Seedling.
do., Oatland>s do., Fortunatus.
Duke of York's do. Florence.
Downton, Fragrant Scarlet.
Knight's No. 7. Formosa.
Dutch, Frogmore Late Pin<\
White Pine, Blush Pine, French Cucumber.
Large Blush Pine, French Musk.
White Bath, Red and Garnstone Scarlet.
White Bath, Large General McClellan.
White, Chili, White General Washington.
Chili, Large Pale Great Eastern.
Chili, Flesh-colored Grand Mere de Bollwiller.
Chili, Cone, Globe, Globular Hudson's Bay.
Conical. Grange Hudson's Bay.
Downer's Prolific. Grimstone Scarlet.
Due de Brabant. Grove End Scarlet,
Dundee. Atkinson's Scarlet
Delices du Palais, Nicaisse.Gibba? Black Seedling.
Dr. Karl Koch.
Glazed Pine,
Duke of Cambridge.
Knott's Pine, Scarlet
Duke of Cornwall.
Pineapple, Chinese of
Duchesse de Trevise.
same, Carolina ditto
Eclipse, Reeve.
Red Chili ditto.
Early Globe.
Genesee.
or Early Scarlet,
Germantown,
Montevideo.
Hovey.
Elton,
Glen Albin.
Elton's Seedling.
Goliath, Kitley's.
Eliza,
Georgia Mammoth.
Hyatt's, Champion.
General Havelock.
Eliza, Rivers'.
Georgian Scarlet.
Empress Eugenie.
Gelineau.
t. Early May.
Garibaldi, Burgess.
Excelsa.
General Scott, Bur gets.
Eclipse.
Globose Scarlet.
Excelsior, Heffron.
Garden of Eden.
Estelle.
General Jacqueminot
Emma.
General Lyons.
English Lady's Finger.
Hendries.
Excellente.
Heroine.
Eberlein's Seedling.
Hein's White.
). Eleanor, Myatt's.
Hein's Scarlet
Elizabeth.
Honey.
CATALOGUE OF STKAWBEKKIES.
Hudson's Bay, Lewisham Scarlet,
York River Scarlet, Scarlet Cluster.
American do.. Late Lynedock Seedling.
do., Hudson's Pine of Large Black Seedling.
Scotland, Atkinson's Large Blush Chili.
Scarlet, Velvet Scarlet, Longworth's Prolific.
Hopewood Scarlet.
Hovey,
Germdntown.
Hooker.
Honneur de la Belgique.
Harlaem Orange.
Hooper's Seedling.
Huntsman's Montevideo.
Imperial Crimson.
Imperial Scarlet.
Iowa,
Brooks'* Prolific.
Lawrencia.
Le Baron.
Long Stem.
La Constante.
Lizzie Eandolph.
Lucy Fitch.
Little Monitor, Burgess.
Lady of the Lake.
Lennig's White.
La Chalonaise, De Jonghe.
La Delicieuse,
Lorio.
Ingram's Prince of "Wales. La Grosse Sucree.
Iphigene. La Keine, De Jonghe.
Imperatrice Eugenie. La Sultane.
Incomparable. La Perle.
Jenny's Seedling. Leopold.
Jessie Keed, Lorio.
Golden Seed. Lucas.
Josephine. Lucie.
Jenny Lind. La Liegeoise.
Jocunda. Large Virginian,
Jennings' Indiana. Late Virginian.
Jeannette. Late Prolific.
Jung Bahadoor. Lafayette.
Jouna or Flauter. Lord Spencer.
Kaminski. ' Mottier's Seedling.
King Arthur. Monstreuse de Eobin.
Knight's Large Scarlet, Magniflque.
American ditto, Hairy Mary.
Leaved ditto, Large Melon.
Scarlet. Metheven Scarlet,
Knight's Scarlet-fleshed,
Knight's No. 16. .
Keen's Imperial,
Black Isleworth Necta-
rine, etc.
Keen's Seedling,
Keen's N0w Seedling,
Murphy's Child.
Knevett's New Pine.
Keen's Pistillate.
Kitley's Superba.
Kentucky.
Ladies' Pine.
Metheven Castle, South-
ampton Scarlet.
Morrisania Scarlet,
Hudson's.
Myatt's Pine.
Mulberry,
Mahone, King, Chero-
kee, Surinam of Scot-
land.
Magnum Bonum.
Macey's Seedling.
Marylandica.
McAvoy's Extra Eed.
McAvoy's Snpetior.
McAvoy's No. 1.
Merveille. .
Monroe Scarlet.
Moyamensing. . - , '
May Queen.
Marguerite.
Monitor.
Malvina.
Melanie.
Minerva.
Madam Louesse.
Marquise de Latour M-
bourg (see Vi&omptesse)
Mrs. D. Neilson.
Madame E. Vilmorin
Marie Amelie.
Mount Vesuvius.
Monophylla (one-leaved)
Nairn's Scarlet.
Narrow-leaved Scarlet,
Knight's No. 14.
Nicholnson's Superb.
Nathalie.
Napoleon III.
Necked Pine.
Nimrod.
Ne Plus Ultra.
Nero.
Newton Seedling.
Naimette, Lorio.
Newark Prolific,
Green Prolific
Oblong Scarlet,
Long Fruited do., Pad-
ley's do.
Old Scarlet.
Early Scarlet, Original,
ditto, Virginian, Old
Bath, Orange or Irish,
Ecarlete de Virginie,
Orange,
Hudson's Bay, Hamil*
ton's, Bishop's Pine,
Orange Pine.
Old Black,
Black Caiterbury,Black
Pine, Turkey Pine,
Black Beacon. Mul-
berry.
Oscar.
CATALOGUE OF STKAWBEEKIES.
Old Pine or Carolina, Eoseberry, Scott's Seedling,
Borsdorf, Grandiflora, Hose, Scotch, Sccwlet, Lady Finger.
Aberdeen, Prolific Scarlet Magnate.
Pine, Brickley. Scarlet Cone.
Bound Fruit d Scarlet,
Knight's No. 18.
Eed Cone.
Bound White Carolina,
Scarlet Melting.
Scarlet Prolific.
Superlative.
Sirius.
White Pine, White Chili. Suprema.
(See Dutch.)
Eandolph Pine.
Bead's No. 1.
Bead's Black Pine.
etc.
Ohio Mammoth.
Omer Pacha.
Orange Prolific.
Ophelia.
Orb.
Ornament des Tables.
Pine Boseberry.
Pitmasten Black Scarlet,
Early Pitmasten.
Pitmasten's Black,
Late Pitmasten's Black. Bival Hudson.
Pine Chili. Eosaline.
Prince Albert. Eeine Hortense.
Paulinus. Bichardson's Cambridge.
Peabody. Ehode Island.
Pennsylvania. Boss Phoenix (see Keen's). Smythe's Seedling.
Primate. Buby, Nicholnson's. Sir Adair.
Prince's Globose. Eoyal Victoria. Sterling Castle Pine.
Princess Frederick Wil- Eival Queen.
liam. Eussell's Prolific.
Prince Imperial. Bobinson's Seedling.
Premices de Bagnolet Bidgewood.
Princess Eoyale, Polvil- Bifleman.
Ian.
Princess Boyal.
Perfumed Cone.
Priscilla.
Prince's Excelsior,
Prince Arthur.
Patrick's Seedling.
Prince Alfred.
Prolific, Myatt's.
Supreme Staminate.
Schneicke's Pistillate.
Stewart.
Sappho.
Seraphine.
Scarlet Prize.
Scarlet Nonpareil.
Scarlet Eock.
Sir Harry.
Scarlet Climax.
Sir Charles Napier.
Surprise, Myatt-'s.
Sir Walter Scott.
Schiller.
Souvenir de Nantes.
St. Lambert.
Sanspareil.
Scarlet Cluster.
Scotch Eunner.
Taylor's New Emperor.
Turner's Pine.
True Chili.
Prince of Wales, Cuffiill's. Slough Scarlet,
Prince of Orleans. Brown's Scarlet.
Prolific Pine, Solid Scarlet,
Brickley Scarlet. Solid-fleshed.
Pineapple. Southborough,
Prince of Wales, Ingrain's. Marshall's Seedling.
Prince of Wales, Stewart Sweet Cone,
and Neilson.
Profuse Scarlet.
Queen Victoria.
Quinquefolia.
Queen of America,
Voorhis.
Quatre Saisons.
Queen's Seedling.
Bed Finger.
Eobert Trail.
Eushtoniensis.
Bichardson's Early.
Bichardson's Late.
Eoyal Pine.
Eoyal Scarlet.
Befulgent
Scone Scarlet
Sir Joseph Banks' Scarlet. Trevirana.
Triumph.
Triumphant Scarlet
Triumvirate.
Triomphe de Gand.
Taylor's Seedling.
Tingley's Scarlet
Tatnall's Seedling.
Union (see Victoria).
Unique Scarlet.
Knight's No. 8.
Surinam,
Button's Large, Old-
aker's Pine, etc.
Swainstone's Seedling,
Monstrous Snainstone,
etc.
Sciota.
Scarlet Chili.
Vernon's Scarlet
White's Scarlet.
Variegated Pine,
Striped Leaved Scarlit
Valencia.
Victoria, Trotiope't.
Victorine.
CATALOGUE OF STRAWBERRIES.
Vieomptesse Hericart de "Wonderful. Waverly.
Tbeury, Wilmot's Scarlet, "Warren.
Duchesse, de Trevise. WilmoVs Late Scarlet, "Welcome.
\ ersailles (see Monophyl- WilmofsSeedling^Wil- Ward's Favorite.
Victory,
Scarlit Victory.
Wilmot's Late Scarlet.
Wortbere.
Wilmot's Superb.
mot's Imperial.
"Wizard of the North.
"Walker.
"Wilson's Albany.
Wyoming.
Willow.
Wardlaw.
Wellington.
White Brittany Pine.
Walworth.
Washington (see Iowa).
Willey.
Yellowchild.
ALPINE, HAUTBOIS, AND WOOD
STRAWBERRIES.
Autamnal Galande.
American Wood Strawberry.
Alpine Monthly (red}.
Alpine Monthly (white).
Alpine Monthly, without runners (red).
Alpine Monthly do., do. (white).
Besancon.
Belle Bordelaise.
Black Hautbois.
Bijou des Fraises (Haufbois).
Brown Hautbois.
Breslinge d'Angleterre.
Common Hautbois (original Hautbois).
Caucasian.
Double Flowering.
De Bargemont.
De Montreuil (white).
De Montreuil (red, or Fressanf).
Globe Hautbois (Antwerp Hautbois).
Gloede's White Alpine.
Gloede's Eed Alpine.
Glorie de St. Dennis.
Glorie du Nord.
Glorie de Nancy.
Gilbert's Large Brown.
Green Alpine (Pineapple).
Hative de Fontenay.
Heterophylla (various leaved).
Indica or Yellow Flowering.
La Belle Bordelaise (Hautbois).
La Meudonaise (Alpine).
Large Flat Hautbois.
Long Fruited Murcatelle.
Monstrous Hautbois.
Myatt's Hautbois.
Plymouth or Muricata.
Prolific Hautbois.
Poitou Alpine Monthly.
Eeine Quatre Saisons.
Eed Wood (Des Bois).
Kivers' Hautbois.
Stoddard's Alpine.
Vineuse de Champagne (Frasiei's
Cliampagne.
Versailles Quatre Saisons.
White Wood (Den Bois a Fruit Blanc).
"Williams' Green Alpine.
THE
ANDKEW 8. FULLEE,
NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION.
THE STANDARD WORK
ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE HARDY GRAPE,
AS IT NOT ONLY DISCUSSES PRINCIPLES,
BUT
ILLUSTRATES PRACTICE.
Every thins: is made perfectly plain, and. its teach-
ings may be followed npon.
ONE VINE OB A VINEYARD
The following are some of the topics tfiat are treated:
GROWING NEW VARIETIES FROM SEED.
PROPAGATION BY SINGLE BUDS OR EYES.
PROPAGATING HOUSES AND THEIR MANAGEMENT FULLY DKS^RTBED.
How TO GROW.
CUTTINGS IN OPEN AIR, AND HOW TO MAKE LAYIRS.
GRAFTING THE GRAPE A SIMPLE AND SUCCESSFUL METHOD.
HYBRIDIZING AND CROSSING MOPE OF OPERATION.
SOIL AND JITUATION PLANTING AND CULTIVATION.
PRUNING, TRAINING, AND TRELLISES ALL THE SYSTEMS EXPLAINED.
GARDEN CULTURE How TO GROW VINES IN A DOOR-YARD.
INSECTS, MILDEW, SUN-SCALD, AND OTHER TROUBLES.
DESCRIPTION OF THE VALUABLE AND THE DISCARDED VARIETIES.
Sent post-paid. Price $1.50.
Orange Judd <fe Co.. 24r5 Broad w ay.
RETURN TO the circulation desk of any
University of California Library _
or to the 1 J
NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY
Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station
University of California
Richmond, CA 94804-4698
ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS
2-month loans may be renewed by calling
(415)642-6233 MI*
1-year loans may be recharged by bringing books ' his
to NRLF
Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days
prior to due date
DUE AS STAMPED BELOW
MAY 30 1987 ,
1
ach
50
YC 1 0886 !
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
